,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,old5 ,,times ,,! ,,wom5 ,,prep>$ ,,all ,,! ,,textile ,,y>ns ,,at ,,home ,,! ,,home-,,mak+ ,,s]ies ,,clo?+ ,,& ,,heal? ,,an ,,elem5t>y ,,textbook ,,( ,,home ,,mak+ ,,by ,,hel5 ,,k9ne ,,pr(essor ,,( ,,h\sehold ,,arts ,,education1 ,,tea*]s ,,college ,,columbia ,,univ]sity1 ,,au?or ,,( ,,food ,,& ,,h\sehold ,,managem5t ,,& ,,%elt] ,,& ,,clo?+ ,,& ,,anna ,m4 ,,cooley1 ,b4,s4 ,,assi/ant ,,pr(essor ,,( ,,h\sehold ,,arts ,,education1 ,,tea*]s ,,college ,,columbia ,,univ]sity1 ,,au?or ,,( ,,food ,,& ,,h\sehold ,,managem5t ,,& ,,%elt] ,,& ,,clo?+ ,new ,york ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company #aibj ,all rights res]v$ ,,copyright1 #aiaf1 ,,by ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company4 ,set up & electrotyp$4 ,publi%$ ,septemb]1 #aiaf4 ,norwood ,press ,j4 ,s4 ,cu%+ ,co4--,b]wick ,smi? ,co4 ,norwood1 ,mass41 ,u4,s4,a4 ,,preface ,?is volume1 l its companion1 ,food & ,heal?1 is int5d$ = use 9 ! elem5t>y s*ools 9 ^? sections ( ! c\ntry :]e ! home life is ( ! type describ$4 ,x is hop$ t bo? volumes w be us$ by ! home p z well z by ^? at ! s*ool4 ,?is volume treats l>gely ( ! clo?+ problems & ( ! elem5t>y "w 9 sew+ :i* prec$es g>m5t mak+4 ,x also includes ! subject ( ! lead+ textile mat]ials1--:]e !y are gr[n & h[ !y are manufactur$ ready = our use4 ,su* topics z ! hygi5e ( clo?+1 buy+ mat]ials & clo?+ wisely1 ! clo?+ budget1 ! use ( ! comm]cial patt]n1 ! c>e & repair ( clo?+1 color comb9ations1 & attractiv5ess 9 dress1 are wov5 9 ) ! lessons on sew+ & textiles1 9 a v simple & elem5t>y way4 ,! au?ors are indebt$ to ! ,unit$ ,/ates ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture1 to ! ,smi?sonian ,in/itution1 to ! ,drap] ,company1 ,hop$ale1 ,massa*usetts1 to ! ,york ,/reet ,flax ,sp9n+ ,company1 ,belfa/1 to ! ,:ittall ,rug ,company1 to ,*5ey ,bro!rs1 silk manufactur]s1 & to o!rs1 = k9d p]mission to use ! pictures %[n4 ,we ackn[l$ge1 also1 ! p]mission ( ! ,corticelli ,silk ,mills ( ,flor5ce1 ,massa*usetts1 = use ( _! copyright$ photographs ( silkworms4 ,tea*]s w be glad to "k t !y c obta9 f ! ,corticelli ,mills1 at slight exp5se1 specim5 cocoons & o!r helps = object lesson tea*+4 ,,cont5ts ,,page ,,! ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,s*ool #a ,,*apt] ,i4 ,,! ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,girls ,,le>n ,,to ,,sew3 ,lesson #a4 ,t[el+ & ,o!r ,cotton ,samples #f ,lesson #b4 ,! ,/ory ( ,h[ ,cotton ,gr[s #aa ,lesson #c4 ,! ,hemm+ ,/it* #ai ,lesson #d4 ,! ,/it*+ ,/it* #bc ,lesson #e4 ,! ,ov]h&+ ,/it* #bh ,lesson #f4 ,plann+ to ,make an ,apron #ca ,lesson #g4 ,us+ ! ,runn+ & ,back ,/it* on ! ,apron #cd ,lesson #h4 ,mak+ & ,atta*+ ! ,apron ,yokes #cg ,lesson #i4 ,h[ to ,make a ,buttonhole #ci ,lesson #aj4 ,! ,use ( ! ,comm]cial ,patt]n #df ,lesson #aa4 ,tak+ ,measurem5ts & ,cutt+ ,out ! ,petticoat #ej ,lesson #ab4 ,mak+ ! ,petticoats #ec ,,*apt] ,,ii4 ,,! ,,girls ,,( ,,! ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,s*ool ,,le>n ,,to ,,make ,,simple ,,g>m5ts3 ,lesson #a4 ,cotton ,mat]ials ,suitable = ,und]we> #eh ,lesson #b4 ,select+ a ,patt]n & ! ,clo? = a ,nightdress #fc ,lesson #c4 ,h[ ,cotton ,clo? is ,wov5 #fe ,lesson #d4 ,! ,sp9n+ ( ,cotton into ,y>n #gb ,lesson #e4 ,cutt+ ,out a ,nightdress #gh ,lesson #f4 ,! ,p>ts ( ! ,sew+ ,ma*9e #hj ,lesson #g4 ,practice 9 ,?read+ & ,runn+ ! ,ma*9e #hd ,lesson #h4 ,! ,fr5* ,seam & ,its ,use #hf ,lesson #i4 ,protection = ! ,body at ,night #hi ,lesson #aj4 ,laces & ,_! ,use #ic ,lesson #aa4 ,trimm+ ! ,nightdress #ih ,lesson #ab4 ,*oos+ ! ,patt]n & ,mat]ial = a ,:ite ,petticoat #aja ,lesson #ac4 ,le>n+ to ,make ! ,petticoat #ajc ,lesson #ad4 ,h[ to ,make a ,corset ,cov] #aje ,,*apt] ,,iii4 ,,le>n+ ,,to ,,make ,,attractive ,,gifts ,,= ,,*ri/mas ,,or ,,= ,a ,,bir?day ,,pres5t3 ,lesson #a4 ,! ,/ory ( ,h[ ,silk is ,produc$ #aji ,lesson #b4 ,simple ,articles ,easily ,made f ,silk ,scraps #aaf ,lesson #c4 ,! ,names & ,uses ( ,sev]al ,silks are ,discuss$ #abb ,lesson #d4 ,m ,useful ,gifts & ,h[ to ,make ,!m #abg ,lesson #e4 ,c\s9 ,ann ,tells ,h[ ,silk is ,made into ,clo? #aca ,lesson #f4 ,! ,blanket ,/it* c be ,us$ 9 ,_m ,ways #ach ,lesson #g4 ,le>n+ to ,make ! ,cross-/it* #adb ,lesson #h4 ,h[ to ,make ! ,hem/it* #adg ,lesson #i4 ,ano!r ,useful ,gift & a ,new ,/it* #adi ,lesson #aj4 ,! ,d>n+ ,/it* #aeb ,,*apt] ,,iv4 ,,! ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,girls ,,le>n ,,to ,,c>e ,,= ,,_! ,,clo!s ,,& ,,to ,,help ,,repair ,,! ,,h\sehold ,,l95s3 ,lesson #a4 ,c>e ( ,clo!s #aef ,lesson #b4 ,le>n+ to ,d>n ,/raight ,te>s #afc ,lesson #c4 ,d>n+ ,/ock+s #afg ,lesson #d4 ,pat*+ ,saves ,clo?+ & ,o!r ,articles #aga ,lesson #e4 ,! ,/ory ( ,h[ ,l95 is ,gr[n #agd ,lesson #f4 ,common ,l95 ,mat]ials are ,id5tifi$ #aha ,lesson #g4 ,remov+ ,common ,/a9s f ,table ,l95 #ahe ,lesson #h4 ,le>n+ to ,wa% & ,iron ! ,table or ,b$ ,l95 #ahh ,lesson #i4 ,! ,/ory ( ! ,manufacture ( ,l95 ,y>n into ,clo? #aia ,lesson #aj4 ,a ,talk ab\t ,buy+ ,l95s #aif ,,*apt] ,v4 ,,! ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,girls ,,le>n ,,to ,,make ,,o!r ,,g>m5ts3 ,lesson #a4 ,! ,patt]n ( ! ,bloom]s #bja ,lesson #b4 ,! ,/ory ( ,:]e ,wool is ,gr[n #bjc ,lesson #c4 ,"s ( ! ,mo/ ,common ,mat]ials ,made f ,wool #bji ,lesson #d4 ,mak+ a ,pair ( ,bloom]s #bae ,lesson #e4 ,! ,/ory ( ,h[ ,wool is ,made into ,clo? #bah ,lesson #f4 ,"s ,facts to ,rememb] 9 ,pur*as+ ,wool ,clo?+ #bbd ,lesson #g4 ,! ,clo?+ ,budget #bcj ,lesson #h4 ,plann+ a ,dress ,skirt ( ,cotton ,mat]ial #bcf ,lesson #i4 ,clo?+ 9 ,relation to ,heal? #bdj ,lesson #aj4 ,m ,heal? ,problems 9 ,*oos+ ,clo!s #bdc ,,*apt] ,,vi4 ,,*oos+ ,,& ,,we>+ ,,clo!s3 ,lesson #a4 ,:at x ,means to be ,well ,dress$ #bej ,lesson #b4 ,! ,*oice ( ,colors = ,clo?+ #bef ,lesson #c4 ,select+ a ,hat #bfb ,lesson #d4 ,mak+ ! ,middy ,bl\se #bfh ,lesson #e4 ,sugge/ions = ,buy+ ,g>m5ts ( ,wool & ,silk #bga ,lesson #f4 ,le>n+ to ,use ,"s ,simple ,textile ,te/s #bgh ,lesson #g4 ,h[ ,patt]n is ,made 9 ,clo? #bhe ,,! ,,ell5 ,h4 ,,ri*>ds ,,h\se #bia ,illu/ration ,,! ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,s*ool ,?is is a /ory ( ! way 9 :i* ! mo!rs & fa!rs1 ! tea*] & pupils1 & _! fri5ds 9 ! t[n%ip "w toge!r to make ! broad valley 9 :i* !y live truly a ,pleasant ,valley4 ,! new s*ool /&s :]e ! little r$ s*oolh\se 0 built = ^? :o are n[ gr&mo!rs & gr&fa!rs1 :5 ! t[n 0 fir/ settl$4 ,! old build+ _h become too small = all ! "y folk1 b ev]ybody lov$ ! place & x 0 n until a fire _h de/roy$ x t money 0 vot$ = l>g] & bett] h\s+ = ! s*ool girls & boys4 ,^! small books c describe only a "p ( ev]y?+ t is be+ done 9 & = ! s*ool1 & = ! home p too1 = y "k t no t[n c prosp] & no c\ntry be great unless ! homes are heal?ful & happy1 :]e all ! memb]s ( e family "w & play toge!r4 ,d y n want to help1 too1 9 y\r home1 & 9 y\r t[n8 ,illu/ration3 #ahai ,,clo?+ ,,& ,,heal? ,illu/ration ,,*apt] ,i ,,! ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,girls ,,le>n ,,to ,,sew4 ,our clo!s are important = !y help to keep u well4 ,%all we le>n h[ to *oose ! mat]ials = !m1 & h[ to make "s useful articles ( clo?+8 ,sew+ is an art :i* all girls %\ld le>n4 ,if we "k h[ to sew1 we c keep our clo!s 9 ord] & always be neat & attractive 9 appe>ance4 ,we c1 also1 make acceptable articles & gifts = o!rs4 ,x is useful1 too1 to "k ab\t mat]ials & ab\t _! co/s & uses2 =1 :5 we buy our clo?+ & h\sehold articles ready-made1 we %\ld "k h[ to tell :e!r ! mat]ial is durable & w we>4 ,! wom5 ( ! home %\ld "k h[ to make a doll> buy ! v be/ ?+s4 ,! mo!rs & gr&mo!rs ( ,pleasant ,valley are delight$ to "k t _! *ildr5 are to be taught at s*ool4 ,if we und]/& ab\t mat]ials1 we w be able to help a great deal4 ,d y "k t ! wom5 ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates sp5d a billion ( doll>s e ye> = textile mat]ials alone8 ,isn't x int]e/+ to "k1 too1 t our clo?+ mat]ials come f plants or animals8 ,d y "k h[ !y are obta9$ & manufactur$8 ,d y belong to a sew+ club or society8 ,p]haps y c =m a sew+ club at y\r s*ool or 9 y\r t[n z ! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley did4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #a4--,m>jorie ,all51 ,presid5t ( ! ,girls' ,sew+ ,league4 ,m>jorie ,all5 7,fig4 #a7 has be5 made ,presid5t ( ! ,girls' ,sew+ ,league ( ,pleasant ,valley4 ,all ! s*ool girls belong2 !y meet once a week & usually sew = _! annual fair4 ,sometimes !y make g>m5ts = ! little *ildr5 :o come dur+ ! summ] to ! ,fre% ,air ,home ne> _! t[n4 ,m>jorie buys all ! mat]ials2 s %e mu/ "k h[ to buy4 ,%e goes once a mon? ) h] "m1 ,mrs4 ,all51 to t[n :]e !re is a good /ore4 ,sometimes %e ord]s by mail4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #b4--,miss ,james & "s ( ! ,pleasant ,valley girls4 ,!y are sew+ = ! ,league fair4 ,! girls ( ! league h decid$ to make "s kit*5 t[els & potlift]s4 ,^! are useful & always sell well4 ,z ! girls d n yet "k h[ to make ^! articles1 !y h promis$ to make a t[el = !mselves = s*ool use1 on :i* to le>n4 ,!n !y w make o!rs = ! sale4 ,cook+1 sew+1 & h\sewif]y are a "p ( ! s*ool "w4 ,besides ,miss ,james1 ! tea*]1 w give cr$it = ! sew+ done by ! ,girls' ,league4 ,! girls are anxi\s to prove to ,miss ,james 7,fig4 #b7 t !y c really "w outside ( s*ool4 ,lat] ! girls hope to make aprons & caps to we> = _! s*ool "w 9 h\sewif]y1 & also "s petticoats = ! *ildr5 at ! ,fre% ,air ,home4 ,miss ,james says %e w help !m at s*ool to get />t$4 ,,lesson #a ,,t[el+ ,,& ,,o!r ,,cotton ,,samples ,m>jorie s5t = samples ( t[el+ mat]ials4 ,%e also w5t to ! t[n /ore to see :at x _h to (f]1 & to look = mat]ials = petticoats & aprons4 ,"o day at s*ool all ! girls wrote = samples4 ,miss ,james criticiz$ ! lett]s1 & *ose ! be/ "o to be s5t4 ,p]haps y c d ?is at y\r s*ool4 ,:at mat]ial is be/ = t[el+8 ,z soon z all ! samples arriv$ at ,pleasant ,valley1 ,m>jorie took !m to s*ool1 & ,miss ,james sp5t an h\r ) ! girls /udy+ ! mat]ials4 ,! t[el+ samples 7 exam9$ fir/4 ,:at a diff]5ce 9 !m6 ,"s are smoo? & feel cold & look almo/ %9y1 & o!rs feel s(t & look m fuzzy on ! surface4 ,d y "k :y8 ,x is because "s are wov5 ( l95 fib]s made f ! flax plant1 & o!rs f cotton :i* comes f ! cotton plant4 ,:i* d y ?9k are made f cotton8 ,!n1 !re is a diff]5ce 9 wid?3 "s are only #ae in*es wide1 & o!rs are #ah in*es4 ,"s h a r$ or blue edge1 & o!rs are pla94 ,!re is also diff]5ce 9 price4 ,:i* co/s m1 l95 or cotton8 ,are ! prices n giv5 on ! samples8 ,m>jorie & ! girls decid$ t ! t[els are to be "o y>d long4 ,!y w\ld l to make f\r doz5 = ! sale & plan to tie !m up attractively1 half a doz5 9 a package4 ,!y _h #be left 9 ! treasury f la/ ye>4 ,z !y w h _m o!r ?+s to buy1 !y decid$ to pur*ase cotton t[els ?is ye>4 ,lat]1 if !re is en\gh money1 !y c add "s l95 t[els4 ,cotton t[els d n absorb ! wat] z easily z ! l954 ,we call ?is a diff]5ce 9 ! prop]ties ( ! two mat]ials4 ,b>b>a ,oakes said h] "m always buys l95 t[els4 ,cotton fib]s h a k9d ( waxy coat+ :i* ?r[s (f ! wat]4 ,l95 fib]s draw 9 moi/ure quickly1 & l95 mat]ials dry v rapidly4 ,:y1 !n1 is l95 really bett] = di% t[els8 ,g+ham1 calico1 & *ambray are pretty & useful4 ,let u look at "s ( ! o!r cotton mat]ials4 ,miss ,james _h _m samples = ! girls to see4 ,gr&mo!r ,/>k s5t ov] "s f h] piece bag4 ,p]haps y\r tea*] w br+ "s1 & y\r "m may s5d "s1 too4 ,!re are sev]al samples ( mat]ial = ! aprons & caps4 ,! blue & :ite1 & p9k & :ite /ripes & *ecks are g+hams2 ! :ite ) ! little spots & ?9 /ripes are p]cales4 ,! pla9 blues & p9ks are *ambray2 ! pla9 blues & p9ks ( *eap] grade are g+hams4 ,^? ) pr9t$ designs on "o side are calicos4 ,! d>k br[n & blue samples are heavi] & are call$ d5ims4 ,suppose we make a book ( br[n pap] & m\nt all ! cotton mat]ials we c f9d4 ,?is book c be kept at ! s*ool = ref]5ce4 ,ev]ybody mu/ help4 ,see if x is possible to write "u ea* sample ! "n & common uses ( ! mat]ial z well z its price4 ,miss ,james _h "s smoo? br[n pap] to fold = a book4 ,%e sugge/$ ways to b9d x4 ,if ea* girl wi%es h] own book1 a numb] c be made if s _m samples c be obta9$4 ,b>b>a & ,m>jorie decide to make _! books at home4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c4--,! girls made br[n pap] books = _! textile samples4 ,!re are sev]al v>ieties ( cotton flannel4 ,! fuzzy s(t cotton samples are out+ flannels & canton flannels4 ,:at is ! diff]5ce 9 _! appe>ance8 ,! canton flannel is heavi]1 & x has "o twill$ surface & "o fuzzy surface4 ,x co/s #ab c5ts a y>d & comes ab\t #cj in*es 9 wid?4 ,out+ flannel1 :i* is fuzzy on bo? sides1 c be b\ght f #aj to #ce c5ts a y>d1 & x is #cf in*es wide4 ,! flannelette samples are also s(t & co/ f #h to #ab c5ts p] y>d2 b flannelette is only #bg in*es 9 wid?4 ,x has a slight nap or fuzzy surface1 & is sometimes pla9 9 color & sometimes pr9t$ on "o surface4 ,comp>e ^! ?ree mat]ials4 ,out+ flannel is v dang]\s unless treat$ ) ammonium phosphate4 ,dissolve "o qu>t] ( a p\nd ( ammonium phosphate1 :i* co/s ab\t #be c5ts1 9 "o gallon ( cold wat]4 ,soak ! clo?+ 9 ?is solution = five m9utes4 ,?is is easily done & may prev5t mu* tr\ble4 ,c y tell :y out+ flannel is dang]\s unless x is treat$8 ,_m o!r cotton mat]ials are useful4 ,miss ,james has ev] s _m m cotton mat]ials4 ,%e told ! girls ! use & "n ( ea*4 ,c we le>n !m all8 ,*eeseclo?4 ,?91 %e]1 pla9 weave4 ,co/s f #e to #ab c5ts p] y>d1 & comes #a y>d wide4 ,x is us$ = wrapp+ butt] or *eese1 = curta9s1 & = _m o!r purposes4 ,x may be us$ = baby1 too1 because x is s s(t4 ,! unblea*$ *eeseclo? co/s f #d to #ab c5ts & is #a y>d wide4 ,cr9ol9e4 ,some?+ l *eeseclo? 9 appe>ance & /iff] 9 texture4 ,x is us$ by dressmak]s = /iff5+ p>ts ( g>m5ts4 ,x comes f ab\t #ai to #cf in*es wide & co/s #ab-;c5ts up4 ,scrim4 ,an op5 me% weave b heavi] ?an *eeseclo?4 ,x is us$ = curta9s & h\sehold furni%+s1 & comes blea*$ or unblea*$4 ,:at is ! diff]5ce 9 _! color8 ,co/1 f #ab to #ij c5ts4 ,wid?1 f #cf to #de in*es4 ,cretonne & ,*9tz4 ,pr9t$ mat]ials ) fl[]s or designs on "o side1 sometimes on bo?4 ,!y co/ f #ab to #ge c5ts p] y>d & are us$ = curta9s1 cov]s1 cu%ion tops1 etc4 ,!y v>y 9 wid? f #be to #cf in*es4 ,d5im4 ,/rong mat]ial & has an unev5 twill$ weave4 ,x is us$ = furniture cov]s1 = aprons1 & = floor cov]+4 ,x co/s f #ah to #cj c5ts p] y>d & comes ab\t #a y>d 9 wid?4 ,y\r big bro!r or fa!r we>s ov]alls ( ?is mat]ial2 p]haps "s ( ! boys 9 s*ool d1 too4 ,g+ham4 ,a mat]ial us$ = aprons or dresses1 skirts1 etc4 ,x is f #bd to #cj in*es wide & co/s f #aj to #ej c5ts p] y>d4 ,f9e g+hams are v beautiful4 ,sometimes !y are pla9 9 color or /rip$ or 9 plaids4 ,p]cale4 ,a good piece c be b\ght = #ab-;c5ts p] y>d1 #cf in*es wide4 ,x comes pla9 or pr9t$1 & is firm & closely wov54 ,x is good = aprons or summ] dresses4 ,tick+4 ,a mat]ial us$ = pill[s or mattress cov]s4 ,x is /rip$1 is twill$ 9 weave1 & we>s v well4 ,x co/s f #ab-;c5ts p] y>d up to #ej or #fj c5ts p] y>d1 & is wov5 #cf in*es wide4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #d4--,! surprise box4 ,d y und]/& :at is meant :5 we read t clo? is wov5 #cf in*es wide8 ,d y "k h[ cotton clo? is made & :]e x comes f8 ,gr&mo!r ,all5 told "s ( ! girls2 = %e kn[s ab\t all su* ?+s4 ,9 our next lesson we %all /udy :]e cotton is gr[n1 & 9 ano!r le>n h[ x is wov54 ,ano!r day we w le>n ! names ( o!r cotton mat]ials & _! uses4 ,!n1 we c add !m to our book ( cotton samples4 ,! little :ite box on ,miss ,james' desk is a surprise box 7,fig4 #d74 ,any "o :o f9ds a new cotton mat]ial diff]5t f ^? /udi$ at s*ool1 ,miss ,james says1 may drop x ?r\gh ! little hole 9 ! cov] ( ! box4 ,:at fun ! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley w h :5 x is op5$4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,if y 7 buy+ kit*5 t[el+ = use at home1 :at mat]ial w\ld y buy8 #b4 ,"n ?ree fuzzy cotton mat]ials & tell _! uses4 #c4 ,decide :e!r y are to make a sample book4 ,beg9 to collect samples ( cotton mat]ials = x4 #d4 ,write quickly on ! blackbo>d ! names ( six common cotton mat]ials4 ,ask "m to "n six4 ,,lesson #b ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,cotton ,,gr[+ ,d y "k t our c\ntry produces ?ree-f\r?s ( ! cotton ( ! _w8 ,:]e is x gr[n8 ,h y he>d ! /ory ( cotton8 ,let u le>n ab\t x4 ,:ile ! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley s*ool wait$ = ! cotton t[el+ to come f ! /ore1 !y /udi$ ab\t :]e cotton is gr[n4 ,cotton is ! *eape/ & mo/ important textile fib]4 ,:at does ! ^w textile mean8 ,look up ! ^w 9 ! s*ool diction>y4 ,m clo?+ is made f cotton ?an f any o!r fib]4 ,:]e does cotton gr[8 ,p]haps y h liv$ 9 ! ,s\!rn ,/ates4 ,c y "n !m )\t look+ at y\r geography8 ,c y tell :y x is w>m] 9 ^? /ates & :y cotton gr[s s well !re1 & n 9 ,nor!rn ,/ates8 ,texas produces m cotton ?an any o!r /ate4 ,9 :at o!r c\ntries ( ! _w d y ?9k cotton is gr[n8 ,john ,ald5 & ,frank ,all5 he>d ! girls /udy+ ab\t cotton1 & !y told ,miss ,james t !y ?\ght ! boys w\ld l to le>n1 too4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #e4--,! fl[] & leaf ( ! cotton plant4 ,! size ( ! fl[] is ab\t f\r in*es across4 ,h[ cotton gr[s4 ,! f>m] plants ! cotton se$s 9 r[s1--y h se5 corn plant$ 9 t way4 ,:at color is corn8 ,! cotton se$s d n look l k]nels ( corn2 b "s are fuzzy & s(t & gray or gre5 9 color1 & o!rs are black & smoo?4 ,?is is because !re are _m v>ieties or k9ds ( cotton4 ,"s gr[ to be five feet tall l corn2 o!rs1 t5 feet 9 height4 ,! fl[]s are yell[ at fir/ & !n turn br[n or purpli% r$4 ,!re are ov] "o hundr$ v>ieties ( cotton4 ,if y d n live ne> a cotton field1 p]haps y c ask "s boy or girl 9 y\r s*ool to write to ! ,unit$ ,/ates ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture at ,wa%+ton4 ,?is dep>tm5t w s5d y "s cotton se$s4 ,p]haps y c plant ! se$s 9 ! s*ool g>d5 & see if !y w gr[4 ,9 ! ,s\? ! plant] prep>es ! fields ab\t ,febru>y & plants 9 ,april or ,may4 ,by ! middle ( ,augu/1 ! plants are five or six feet high & are cov]$ ) fuzzy little :ite balls1 s(t & dry4 ,! cotton fields1 or plantations z !y are call$1 look l fairyl&4 ,9 ! picture 7,fig4 #f7 y w see ! m51 wom51 & *ildr5 busy pick+ ! cotton & putt+ x into baskets4 ,! cotton bolls1 z !y are call$1 are br[n & dry look+3 b :5 ripe1 !y bur/1 & ! woolly look+ :ite ball pops out ( its br[n h\se1 or %ell 7,fig4 #g74 ,9 ea* cotton boll !re are ab\t ?irty or =ty se$s1 & ! cotton fib]s are all atta*$ to ^! se$s4 ,! fib]s are made into ?read & clo?+1 & ! se$s are us$ = _m purposes4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #f4--,pick+ cotton4 ,cotton fib]s diff]4 ,we %all le>n h[ ! fib] is pull$ f ! se$s4 ,?is process is call$ g9n+ & is done by a ma*9e4 ,if y h a microscope 9 y\r s*ool1 look at a cotton fib] "u ! glass4 ,miss ,james w s5d = "s fib]s4 ,y w see t x looks l a ribbon :i* has be5 twi/$4 ,! natural twi/ helps v mu* :5 cotton is twi/$ or is manufactur$ into y>n4 ,cotton is a wond]ful little fib] & v>ies 9 l5g? f to #b in*es4 ,! cotton call$ ,sea ,isl& cotton is ! long fib] cotton1 & is gr[n ne> ! sea1 = x ne$s ! sea air4 ,! cotton call$ ,upl& gr[s away on ! upl&s & is %ort]4 ,^! are ! pr9ciple k9ds gr[n 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #g4--;,cotton bolls :5 bur/ are ab\t ! size ( a small apple4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #h4--;,cotton fib]s magnifi$4 ,! cotton se$s are tak5 f ! fib]4 ,aft] ! pick]s h gone up & d[n ! long r[s & fill$ _! bags or baskets1 !y empty ! cotton into wagons :i* c>ry x to ! g9 h\se1 :]e ! se$s are sep>at$ f ! fib]s & ! br[n pieces ( ! pod are bl[n away z x is sep>at$ & clean$4 ,long ago 9 ,india & o!r c\ntries1 cotton 0 g9n$ by h&4 ,:at a long t$i\s process1 = only "o p\nd c\ld be sep>at$ by a p]son 9 a day4 ,! picture 7,fig4 #i7 %[s a little girl at s*ool try+ to g9 "s cotton ) a little g9n+ ma*9e :i* %e has made at s*ool4 ,:ile ,george ,wa%+ton 0 ,presid5t ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 a man nam$ ,eli ,:itney inv5t$ a ma*9e1 call$ ! saw g91 = sep>at+ cotton fib]s f ! se$4 ,?is inv5tion has sav$ mu* "t4 ,to-day cotton is all g9n$ by ma*9]y2 & s great quantities c be sep>at$ 9 a day4 ,! ma*9e works 9 su* a way t ! cotton fib]s are pull$ away f ! se$s1 & ! se$s are kept sep>ate = o!r purposes4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,spey] ,s*ool1 ,new ,york4 ,,fig4 #i4--;,a ,pleasant ,valley girl try+ to g9 "s cotton ) a little g9n+ ma*9e :i* %e has made at s*ool4 ,! cotton se$s are us$1 too4 ,"s ( ! se$s are kept = plant+1 j z y keep corn & oats on y\r f>m2 & o!rs are press$4 ,cottonse$ oil comes f ! se$s :5 press$1 & is v useful = _m purposes1 su* z salad oil1 soaps1 cook+ fats1 & us$ = cattle fe$4 ,! se$ is cov]$ ) a fuzz :i* is fir/ remov$ & us$ = l9t4 ,!n ! hulls are remov$1 & ! dry cake :i* is left1 aft] ! oil has be5 extract$1 is also us$ = fe$+ ! cattle4 ,isn't cotton a v valuable plant8 ,h[ poor we %\ld be )\t x1 = silk & wool & l95 co/ s mu* m4 ,cotton is ! *eap1 useful fib]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aj4--;,bales ( cotton on a /eamboat dock ready = %ipp+4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,unit$ ,/ates ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #aa4--;,bales ( cotton f diff]5t c\ntries4 ,! ?ird f ! left is ! ,am]ican bale4 ,! second is ,egyptian2 ! f\r?1 ,ea/ ,indian4 ,! cotton is bal$ & %ipp$ to manufactur]s4 ,aft] cotton has be5 fre$ f ! se$1 x is s5t to ! cotton mills all ov] ! _w2 "s 9 ?is c\ntry & "s 9 ,europe4 ,x is s5t by boats & sometimes by tra94 ,9 ! picture 7,fig4 #aj7 y w see bales on ! dock ready to be %ipp$4 ,9 ord] to %ip x safely aft] x is g9n$1 x is press$ into bales l ! hay y h on y\r f>m2 & x is cov]$ ) co>se clo? to keep x clean1 & is b\nd ) iron b&s4 ,! ,am]ican cotton bales weigh ab\t #ejj p\nds4 ,?is is ! size ( a bale3 #ed #bg ,x #de4 ,see if y c measure (f 9 y\r s*oolroom a space :i* w %[ ! size ( ! bale4 ,:5 ^! bales are tak5 to ! /eamboat pi]s1 !y are aga9 made small] by a ma*9e1 call$ a cotton compress1 :i* r$uces !m to #aj in*es 9 ?ickness4 ,?is is s ! bales w n take up s mu* room 9 be+ transport$4 ,sometimes1 h[ev]1 ?is press+ injures ! fib]4 ,! ,unit$ ,/ates %ips cotton to ,liv]pool1 ,brem51 ,havre1 ,g5oa1 & _m o!r places4 ,c y f9d ^! on ! map & see :at a long j\rney ! cotton takes8 ,john ,ald5 w5t to ! map & trac$ ! j\rney4 ,he us$ ! po9t] & />t$ f "o ( ! ports ( ,l\isiana4 ,c y imag9e :i* "o8 ,:i* way d y ?9k ! /eam] sail$ 9 ord] to rea* ,engl& z soon z possible8 ,p]haps y live ne> a %ipp+ port & c g ) y\r tea*] to see ! cotton load$ on ! %ips4 ,notice h[ ! bales are l[]$ into ! hold4 ,!re are l>ge export+ companies :i* take *>ge ( %ipp+ bales ( cotton4 ,:at is ! diff]5ce betwe5 import & export ,we import "s cotton f ,egypt1 because x is a v long fib]$ cotton & is good = ?read1 hosi]y1 & cotton gloves4 ,ano!r day we %all /udy h[ ! manufactur] at ! mill op5s ! cotton bale & makes x into clo?4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,:]e is cotton gr[n 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates8 ,f9d ! /ates on ! map4 ,tell :y cotton is gr[n 9 ^! /ates4 #b4 ,exam9e a cotton fib] ) ! microscope4 ,h[ does x look8 ,draw a picture ( x4 #c4 ,look up ! /ory ( ,eli ,:itney's inv5tion4 ,:y 0 x important8 ,,lesson #c ,,! ,,hemm+ ,,/it* ,let u beg9 to make ! di% t[els4 ,:at mu/ we ?9k ab\t 9 ord] to hem !m v neatly8 ,:y is ! hemm+ /it* useful8 ,! hemm+ /it* is a v useful "o to le>n1 = x c be us$ = s _m purposes4 ,let u le>n on some?+ simple--a di% t[el or di% clo? = "m4 ,!n y c p]haps hem some?+ = ! sale ( y\r ,girls' ,league4 ,mrs4 ,oakes says %e has a doz5 new t[els ready = ,b>b>a :5 %e le>ns h[ to hem4 ,! raw edges ( mat]ial w\ld ravel unless turn$ & hemm$4 ,! turn+ is call$ a hem4 ,x is held ) a tempor>y /it* call$ ba/+1 & !n ) ! hemm+ /it* :i* rema9s4 ,if ! edges 7 n hemm$1 ! mat]ial w\ld ravel away or look v untidy4 ,! w>p ?reads run l5g?wise ( ! clo?4 ,! firm selv$ge is made by ! fill+ ?read pass+ ar\nd ! w>p z ! clo? is made4 ,x is ?is fill+ ?read :i* w ravel 9 di% t[el+ or o!r mat]ial unless a hem is made4 ,h[ is ! hemm+ /it* made8 ,?is is h[ ,miss ,james taught ! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley to hem3 #a4 ,turn hem ( desir$ wid?4 ,= ! t[els1 "o-f\r? in* w be ab\t "r :5 f9i%$4 ,!re are two turns because "o w\ld ravel4 ,turn t[>ds ! work]4 ,fir/1 turn "o-eigh? in* to wrong side ( mat]ial4 ,second1 turn "o-f\r? in*4 ,turn & p9* to hold until ba/$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ab4--,! ba/+ /it*4 #b4 ,ba/e4 ,use "o-f\r? in* /it*es4 ,no4 #h ne$le is a good size = ?is "w1 & ba/+ ?read c be us$ = ?is tempor>y /it*4 ,be sure to we> a ?imble on ! middle f+] ( ! "r h&4 ,little ,alice ,all5 says %e nev] w le>n to use a ?imble1 b %e w if %e keeps on try+4 ,! picture 7,fig4 #ab7 %[s ! ev5 ba/+ /it* ) ne$le 9 position4 ,ba/e on ! edge ( ! hem4 ,beg9 ) a knot1 & end ) two t9y /it*es plac$ "o on top ( ! o!r to hold until hemm$4 ,rememb] ba/+ is a tempor>y /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ac4--,! way to hold ! clo? :ile hemm+4 #c4 ,hem ! edge ) ! hemm+ /it*4 ,look at ! pictures 7,figs4 #ac-af7 & !n foll[ c>efully ! directions4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ad4--,?is %[s h[ to />t ! hemm+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ae4--,! hemm+ /it*4 ,notice ! slant ( ! ne$le4 ,hold ! clo? slant+ ov] ! f+]s ( ! left h&1 ) ?umb on top 7,fig4 #ac74 ,beg9 )\t a knot4 ,put ! ne$le up ?r\gh edge ( hem & all[ "o in* ( end ( ?read to lie "u ! hem z y pull ?read ?r\gh 7,fig4 #ad74 ,?is end w be work$ ov] & held securely4 ,n[ y are ready = ! /it*4 ,po9t ! ne$le :i* is 9 y\r "r h& t[>ds ! left %\ld]4 ,! po9t ( ! ne$le is pass$ fir/ ?r\gh ! clo? "u ! edge ( ! hem1 ) a t9y /it* :i* %[s on ! "r side4 ,! ne$le1 at ! same "t1 cat*es ! edge ( ! ba/$ hem4 ,?is makes a t9y slant+ /it* on ! "r side1 s3 _/4 ,! next /it* is tak5 ab\t "o-sixte5? ( an in* f ! fir/1 9 exactly ! same way4 ,z ! ?read c>ries f "o /it* to ! next1 x makes a slant+ l9e on ! wrong1 or hem1 side b 9 ! opposite direction f ! /it* :i* %[s on ! "r side4 ,x slants l ?is3 ,toge!r ^! two make ?is3 #a_/ #b ,! "p m>k$ #a %[s on ! "r side ( ! clo?2 & #b on ! wrong1 :]e ! hem is turn$ 7,fig4 #ae74 ,:5 ! end ( hem is rea*$1 fa/5 ) two or ?ree t9y /it*es4 ,if ! ?read breaks1 ravel out a few /it*es & let ! old end ( ?read lie "u ! hem4 ,! new ?read c !n be />t$ z at ! beg9n+ by putt+ ne$le 9 ! hole ( la/ /it*4 ,!re w be two ends "u ! hem to "w ov]4 ,! picture 7,fig4 #af7 %[s h[ to jo9 a new ?read4 ,f9d out h[ _m places ! hemm+ /it* c be us$4 ,try x at home on some?+ be=e next lesson4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #af4--,! hemm+ /it*4 ,/>t+ a new ?read4 ,:5 ?is /it* has be5 well le>n$1 x w be possible = ! ,girls' ,sew+ ,league to make _m ?+s4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,practice turn+ hems neatly on a scrap ( clo? be=e />t+ to turn !m on ! di% t[el4 #b4 ,/udy ! pictures c>efully s z to h ! /it* exactly ! "r slant4 #c4 ,practice hemm+ on a scrap ( clo? = a few /it*es be=e beg9n+ ! t[el4 ,,lesson #d ,,! ,,/it*+ ,,/it* ,%all we try to make a po?old] & le>n ano!r new /it*8 ,hold]s are v useful to ! h\sekeep]4 ,mrs4 ,/>k has a bag ) pockets hang+ ne> ! kit*5 /ove & says x makes su* a conv5i5t place to keep hold]s1 = !y are always at h& ready = use4 ,!y c be made _m sizes4 ,= ! cook+ class at s*ool1 x is conv5i5t = ea* girl to h a hold] on a tape atta*$ to ! b& ( h] apron 7,fig4 #ag74 ,x is always ) h]1 !n1 = use4 ,?is c be done by mak+ a loop at ! end ( ! tape & slipp+ ! hold] ?r\gh ! loop4 ,a h& t[el atta*$ at ! same place is conv5i5t1 too4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ag4--,! hold]4 ,plann+1 cutt+1 & ba/+ ! hold]s4 ,hold]s c be made f old scraps ( wool5 clo?1 f ei!r pieces ( g>m5ts :i* h be5 worn & ca/ aside1 or new scraps f ! piece bag4 ,six in*es squ>e is a good size4 ,place sev]al squ>es1 "o on top ( ! o!r1 accord+ to ! ?ickness ( ! clo?4 ,c y tell :y wool makes a bett] hold] ?an cotton8 ,= appe>ance we c cov] ! hold] ) "s pretty piece ( *9tz or cretonne2 p]haps y h 9 ! piece bag "s pieces :i* are l>ge en\gh4 ,d5im is /rong = a cov]+4 ,a piece ( asbe/os might be plac$ inside4 ,:y8 ,p9 all ^! ?icknesses toge!r1 ) a cov] top & bottom4 ,n[ ba/e f corn] to corn] & f side to side4 ,?is is good practice4 ,make ba/+ /it*es ( ev5 l5g? su* z y made on ! t[els4 ,!n ba/e c>efully all ar\nd ! f\r sides s t ! edges are held securely4 ,we are go+ to b9d ! edge to prev5t x f ravel+ & to make x /rong4 ,tape is good = b9d+2 & s is a bias /rip ( ! cretonne cov]1 or ( a pretty contra/+ color4 ,:at does contra/+ mean8 ,cutt+ & plac+ a bias /rip4 ,c y le>n to cut a true bias /rip ( clo?8 ,y h le>n$ t ! w>p ?reads are ! /rong ?reads ( ! clo? & run l5g?wise ( ! mat]ial4 ,to prep>e to cut a true bias /rip 7,fig4 #ah71 fold ! w>p ( ! clo? ov] s t ! w>p ?reads lie exactly on ! fill+ ?reads4 ,! fold is a true bias edge4 ,cut ?r\gh ! fold4 ,a true bias edge is made by cutt+ a squ>e f corn] to corn]4 ,does x cut ! w>p or ! fill+ ?reads8 ,to make "o-in* /rips = b9d+ ! hold]1 measure at "r angles to ! fold y h j cut4 ,make a dot1 & rule a light l9e :i* w be "o in* f ! cut edge4 ,^! are true bias /rips4 ,ba/e ! /rip or tape c>efully ar\nd ! f\r sides ( ! hold]1 & all[ a little fullness at ! corn]4 ,! edge ( ! /rip or tape %\ld be ev5 ) ! edge ( ! hold]1 & ! ba/+ %\ld be "o-f\r? ( an in* f ! edge 9 a /raight l9e = a guide = ! next /it*4 ,miss ,james %[$ ! girls h[ to turn ! corn]s by tak+ a t9y plait4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ah4--;,cutt+ a true bias4 ,mak+ ! /it*+ /it*4 ,n[ we are ready = a new /rong /it*4 ,x is call$ /it*+ /it*1 = x is us$ :]e ma*9e /it*+ might be us$1 & resembles x 9 appe>ance on ! "r side4 ,ask y\r ,gr&mo!r if %e rememb]s :5 !re 7 no sew+ ma*9es & all ,gr&fa!r's %irts 7 /it*$ by h&8 ,gr&mo!r ,all5 & ,gr&mo!r ,/>k ( ,pleasant ,valley rememb]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ai4--,! /it*+ /it*4 ,look at ! picture 7,fig4 #ai7 & foll[ ! directions c>efully1 & y w be able to make ?is /it*4 ,x is />t$ ) two or ?ree t9y /it*es1 "o ov] ! o!r = /r5g?4 ,! r[ ( /it*es y are to make %\ld be 9 a /raight l9e j bel[ ! /raight r[ ( ba/+ /it*es4 ,hold ! clo? 9 ! same way z = hemm+1 ) ! mat]ial ov] ! f+]s & ! ?umb on top4 ,n[ y are ready to make ! new /it*4 ,! /it* is />t$ at ! "r-h& end ( ! clo?4 ,make a /it* back ov] ! two />t+ /it*es & c>ry ! ne$le =w>d twice ! l5g? ( ?is />t+ /it*4 ,y w h a t9y space on ! "r side betwe5 ! place :]e ! ne$le comes up & ! end ( ! />t+ /it*4 ,ea* "t y\r ?read %\ld fill ?is space1 = y\r ne$le %\ld g back into ! end ( ! la/ /it* & twice ! l5g? =w>d on ! opposite side z x comes up4 ,see ! ne$le 9 ! picture 7,fig4 #ai74 ,notice ! space4 ,look at y\r "w4 ,:at is ! appe>ance ( ! /it* on ! wrong side8 ,on ! "r side8 ,?is /it* is also call$ ! back/it*4 ,:y8 ,f9i%+ ! hold]4 ,make a r[ ( /it*+ /it*es all ar\nd ! edge ( ! hold]1 hold+ ! b9d+ securely4 ,be c>eful to cat* ! corn]s well4 ,remove y\r ba/+ /it*es4 ,turn ! tape or /rip ov] to ! o!r side ( ! hold] & ba/e4 ,if y h us$ a bias /rip1 ! edge mu/ be turn$ "u "o-f\r? ( an in* or m be=e ba/+4 ,?is edge is to be held ) ! hemm+ /it*4 ,i am sure t y c all make ! hemm+ /it* by n[4 ,if y wi% a loop or long tape = hold+ ! hold]1 hem x neatly at "o side1 turn+ 9 ! end ( ! tape to prev5t ravel+4 ,if y h "s color$ silk ?read1 x w look well to make t9y />s l ?is 99 at ! c5t] ( ! hold] & at f\r places ab\t two in*es f ! corn]s on ! diagonals4 ,^! w hold ! mat]ials firmly toge!r4 ,o!r uses = ! /it*+ /it*4 ,! /it*+ /it* c be us$ = _m o!r purposes4 ,x is a /rong /it* = seams4 ,d y "k :at a seam is8 ,two pieces ( clo? sew$ toge!r may =m a seam4 ,look = seams 9 y\r skirt1 9 y\r sleeve1 9 y\r wai/4 ,c y f9d any8 ,"s "o tell ! diff]5ce betwe5 a hem & a seam4 ,aft] ?is lesson ,mollie ,/>k help$ h] ,gr&mo!r sew "s long seams4 ,mr4 ,/>k's ov]alls _h ripp$1 & ! sew+ ma*9e 0 be+ repair$4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,practice cutt+ "s bias /rips4 ,be sure !y are true bias edges4 ,h[ c y tell8 #b4 ,try to make ! /it*+ /it* on tea*]'s demon/ration clo?1 ) ! l>ge ne$le & r$ wor/$4 ,,lesson #e ,,! ,,ov]h&+ ,,/it* ,a new game & a new /it*4 ,let u make ! bags ) ! new /it* be=e we le>n to play ! game4 ,p]haps1 in/ead ( a po?old]1 y _h r make iron hold]s or bean bags = y\r ,league ,fair4 ,h y ev] play$ bean bag game8 ,! ,pleasant ,valley s*ool *ildr5 (t5 play ?is game at recess4 ,y c easily make ! bags & also ! bo>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bj4--,! ov]h&+ /it*4 ,mak+ ! bean bag4 ,bean bags c also be sew$ ) ! /it*+ /it*1 z x is /rong4 ,cut ! bags ( d5im #ad #g in*es1 or s z to make a bag #g in*es squ>e4 ,fold1 ba/e ! edges on ?ree sides1 sew !m ) /it*+ /it*1 & turn inside out4 ,fill ) beans4 ,two in*es at ! middle ( "o side %\ld n be sew$ until aft] ! beans h be5 put 94 ,w\ld y l to le>n ! ov]h&+ /it* = clos+ ! edges ( t side8 ,! two edges ( ! bag are turn$ 91 & ! ov]h&+ /it* is made on ! v edge4 ,x is a v simple /it*1 & is us$ = sew+ seams or edges toge!r firmly4 ,! edges are held 9 ! left h& betwe5 ! ?umb & fir/ f+]4 ,! ne$le 9 ! "r h& is po9t$ /raight ?r\gh t[>ds ! work] z 9 ! picture 7,fig4 #bj71 & ! ne$le is pass$ ?r\gh ! two edges4 ,! end ( ! ?read is drawn c>efully1 & "o-half ( an in* all[$ to lie on ! edge4 ,?is is work$ ov]4 ,! ne$le is po9t$ ) ea* /it* t[>ds ! work]1 & ! /it*es are plac$ ab\t "o-eigh? ( an in* ap>t4 ,be v c>eful to cat* bo? edges1 b d n make y\r /it*es too deep4 ,! ov]h&+ /it* is a /rong /it* & is easy to make4 ,x is f9i%$ by work+ backw>ds f left to "r on ! edge ) ?ree or f\r ( ! same /it*es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ba4--,! bean bag bo>d4 ,play+ ! bean bag game4 ,! boys w surely wi% to help prep>e ! bo>d = ! bean bag game4 ,frank ,all5 & ,john ,ald5 made ! "o us$ at ,pleasant ,valley s*ool4 ,p]haps !re is an old box some:]e :i* c be brac$ ) /icks & made to /& slant+4 ,! bottom ( ! box w h to be cut 9 holes 7see ,fig4 #ba74 ,ea* hole c be a diff]5t %ape & numb]$ #e1 #aj1 #be1 or #ej4 ,! object ( ! game is to see h[ high a score c be obta9$ by ?r[+ ! bags ?r\gh ! holes4 ,"o %\ld /& six feet or m f ! bo>d4 ,ea* %\ld h t5 turns4 ,"s "o mu/ keep ! score4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,mrs4 ,e4 ,j4 ,essel/yn4 ,,fig4 #bb4--;,john ,ald5's little bro!r try+ = a high score4 ,! boys w h to help saw or :ittle to get ! holes j "r4 ,d y ?9k y c make bo? ! bags & ! game bo>d8 ,! picture 7,fig4 #bb7 %[s ,john ,ald5's little bro!r play+ ! game4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,try to make ! bean bag bo>d4 ,p]haps y c ?9k ( an easi] way4 #b4 ,f9d five places :]e ! ov]h&+ /it* is us$ & report at ! next lesson4 ,,lesson #f ,,plann+ ,,to ,,make ,,an ,,apron ,! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley s*ool decid$ to make caps & aprons4 ,!y help e day ) ! prep>ation ( ! s*ool lun*4 ,! aprons w keep _! dresses clean1 s ! girls w look neat & tidy4 ,! aprons c also be us$ at home4 ,let u too le>n h[ to cut !m c>efully4 ,! samples :i* ,m>jorie ,all5 br\ght f ! /ore h be5 exam9$ & /udi$ c>efully4 ,! girls "k n[ ! diff]5ce 9 appe>ance betwe5 p]cales1 calicos1 g+hams1 *ambrays1 & also h[ mu* !y co/4 ,mo/ ( ! girls h decid$ to make p9k & :ite1 or blue & :ite1 *eck$ aprons ( g+ham4 ,x co/s #ab-;c5ts a y>d2 & ! girls require f two & "o-half to ?ree y>ds1 accord+ to size4 ,!y are to make _! own patt]n = ! aprons1 z !y are s simple4 ,:5 !y make ! petticoats = ! ,fre% ,air *ildr51 !y w le>n to use a comm]cial patt]n4 ,cutt+ ! skirt "p4 ,ea* girl w ne$ two l5g?s = ! skirt "p ( ! apron1 measur+ f ! armhole at *e/1 to ! desir$ l5g?4 ,no patt]n is necess>y = ?is skirt "p4 ,on ea* l5g? all[ f\r in*es extra = hem4 ,te> "o l5g?1 l5g?wise2 be c>eful n to te> x crosswise ( ! mat]ial4 ,! two pieces torn d[n are to be plac$ "o on ea* side ( ! :ole wid?1 ) selv$ges toge!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bc4--,! plan = ! yoke ( ! apron4 ,plann+ ! patt]n = ! yoke4 ,n[ ! yoke patt]n is to be made4 ,miss ,james help$ ! ,pleasant ,valley girls ) ! patt]ns4 ,y w ne$ a good-siz$ piece ( pap]1 p5cil1 & a tapel9e4 ,measure ! wid? ( *e/ f side to side1 j at ! armhole 9 front4 ,look at diagram 7,fig4 #bc72 ?is measure is ! bottom ( ! yoke4 ,draw a l9e ! l5g? ( *e/ measure across ! bottom ( y\r pap]4 ,measure up six in*es1 & draw a l9e at "r angles to ea* end ( ! *e/ l9e4 ,?is is to f9d ! %\ld]4 ,draw a dott$ l9e ?ree in*es at "r angles to ?is1 z %[n 9 ! diagram4 ,!n draw a l9e ?ree in*es to =m a ?ird side ( ! squ>e4 ,d ?is = ! o!r %\ld] & connect ! two l9es ) a l9e p>allel to ! *e/ l9e4 ,y w h a yoke ?ree in*es wide 9 front4 ,! %\ld] l9es are too /raight2 s draw slant+ l9es j a little t[>ds ! outside or armhole side1 tak+ (f "o-half in* on %\ld] edge4 ,?is is ! only patt]n ne$$2 = ! back patt]n is exactly ! same1 b is divid$ 9 half & cut /raight ?r\gh ! c5t] = ! op5+ 9 back4 ,cutt+ ! yoke4 ,lay ! patt]n on ! clo? s t ! wid? ( *e/ l9e is on ! fill+ ?reads ( ! clo?4 ,f\r pieces w be ne$$4 ,c y d\ble y\r clo? & cut two at once8 ,! yoke is made d\ble ( two ?icknesses2 t is :y we mu/ cut two pieces = ! back & two = ! front4 ,cut ! two back portions ?r\gh ! c5t] back1 on ! ?read ( mat]ial4 ,n[ our aprons are all cut4 ,c>efully roll up ! pieces & mat]ial left1 = y w ne$ !m if y make ! caps4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bd4--;,f\r ( ! ,pleasant ,valley girls we>+ _! f9i%$ aprons4 ,ba/+ ! skirt "p4 ,let u make ! skirt ( ! apron fir/4 ,p9 ! wid?s toge!r1 selv$ge to selv$ge1 to =m seams4 ,y all "k :at ! selv$ge is4 ,look 9 ! diction>y4 ,h[ is x made s firm8 ,! :ole wid? is = ! c5t] front2 ! half wid? = ea* side4 ,p9 toge!r & ba/e "o-f\r? in* seams1 to )9 #h or #i in*es ( ea* l5g?2 ?is w be left op5 "u ea* arm4 ,ba/e also "o-f\r? in* hems at ! outside edges ( ! side l5g?s :i* are ravel+4 ,turn ! hems to ! same side z ! seams1 ! wrong side4 ,n[ all ! ba/+ is done1 & next "t we %all be ready = a new /it*4 ,! picture 7,fig4 #bd7 %[s "s ( ! ,pleasant ,valley girls we>+ _! aprons4 ,c y guess :i* is ,mollie ,/>k or ,b>b>a ,oakes8 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,look up ^! words 9 ! diction>y3 selv$ge1 w>p1 wo(1 patt]n4 #b4 ,"n o!r mat]ials1 besides g+ham1 suitable = "w aprons4 ,,lesson #g ,,us+ ,,! ,,runn+ ,,& ,,back ,,/it* ,,on ,,! ,,apron ,a new /it* call$ runn+ & back /it* is v useful = seams 7,fig4 #be74 ,x is a quick /it*1 & x is /rong4 ,let u le>n to make x on ! seams ( ! aprons4 ,we %all ne$ x lat] = o!r ?+s4 ,! apron seams are all ba/$ ) "o-f\r? in* seams4 ,! selv$ges h n be5 remov$4 ,"s day we %all le>n to make a seam :i* w be sew$ twice1 & !n we %all remove ! selv$ges4 ,a seam made ) "o sew+ is call$ a pla9 seam4 ,! ba/+ is only a tempor>y /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #be4--;,a new /it* call$ ! runn+ & back /it*4 ,to sew seams4 ,hold ! mat]ial 9 ! left h& ov] ! f+]s1 ) ?umb on top4 ,y w sew f "r to left4 ,/>t ) two or ?ree t9y /it*es1 "o ov] ! o!r1 )\t knot4 ,pull ne$le ?r\gh aft] ! />t+ /it*es4 ,n[ take two or ?ree t9y runn+ /it*es2 !y are l ba/+1 only mu* small]4 ,z y make ! runn+ /it*es1 ! la/ "o is to be twice ! l5g? ( ! o!rs z ! ne$le is pull$ ?r\gh4 ,?is is because ! next /it* is to be backw>ds--a back/it* to cov] half ! space4 ,on ! side t[>ds y1 y\r r[ ( /it*es %\ld look l runn+ /it*es2 on ! wrong side1 x w be diff]5t because ( ! back/it*4 ,y %\ld h ! /it*es 9 a /raight r[ "u ! l9e ( ba/+4 ,! back/it*1 :i* cov]s half ! space left by ! runn+1 is twice ! l5g? ( ! runn+ /it* on ! wrong side4 ,?is w br+ ! ne$le up ahead ( ! /it* & ready = ! next gr\p ( runn+ /it*es4 ,bo? seams ( ! skirt ( ! apron are to be sew$ to )9 #h or #i in*es "u ! arm4 ,f9i% ) ?ree t9y /it*es1 "o ov] ano!r4 ,remove ba/+s1 & press op5 ! seams4 ,c y n take ?is home & sew ! o!r long seam !re1 n[ t y "k h[2 or c y n d x at ! meet+ ( ! ,sew+ ,league8 ,! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley did4 ,sometimes !y sat "u ! big oak trees on ,friday aft]noons & _h _! sew+ lessons outdoors4 ,to hem sides4 ,hem sides ( apron :i* y h ba/$1 mak+ small /it*es4 ,y "k h[4 ,to hem bottom ( apron4 ,turn hem at bottom ( apron4 ,! clo? %\ld be ev54 ,f\r in*es 7 all[$4 ,! fir/ turn may be "o-f\r? ( an in*2 ! second1 ?ree & "o-half in*es4 ,! o!r qu>t] in* all[$ is = ga!r+ at top ( apron4 ,p9 c>efully & measure1 ) a tapel9e or a gauge4 ,c y make a gauge8 ,a piece ( c>dbo>d ) a not* = "o or ?ree in*es accord+ to measure desir$1 is a gauge4 ,! diagram 7,fig4 #bf7 %[s h[ to cut a "o-in* gauge4 ,c y make a ?ree-in* gauge1 & keep y\r hems ev5 by foll[+ ! m>k$ not*8 ,ba/e hems c>efully aft] p9n+4 ,hem neatly4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,a gauge = ! apron hem4 ,to ga!r ! top ( apron4 ,y are n[ ready to ga!r ! top ( ! wid?s4 ,!y are to fit into ! yoke2 &1 z !y are too wide1 we %all h to make !m fit4 ,ga!r+ is done by mak+ two r[s ( runn+ /it*es 7small ba/+ /it*es71 "o "u ! o!r4 ,?is is done on ea* wid? ) ! r[s ( runn+ /it*es "o-f\r? ( an in* ap>t4 ,beg9 ) a knot & h y\r ?read a little long] ?an ! wid? y are ga!r+4 ,y c !n draw ! mat]ial on ! ga!r+ ?reads1 & make x fit ! yoke4 ,let u put ! f9i%$ skirts ( ! apron away neatly1 & next lesson sew on ! yokes4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,make a ?ree & "o-half in* gauge1 us+ a piece ( c>dbo>d or a /iff pap]4 #b4 ,practice ga!r+ on a practice piece ( clo?4 ,see h[ quickly y c d x1 putt+ 9 two ev5 r[s4 ,,lesson #h ,,mak+ ,,& ,,atta*+ ,,! ,,apron ,,yokes ,! yokes are to be seam$ at ! %\ld]s4 ,!re are two yokes2 "o is = ! l9+4 ,let u sew !m toge!r & atta* !m to ! skirt ( ! apron4 ,to make ! yoke4 ,p9 ! two back portions ( yoke to ! "o front portion4 ,ba/e at %\ld] seams "o-f\r? ( an in*4 ,sew ) runn+ & back /it*1 :i* y us$ = ! apron skirt4 ,make ! l9+ yoke 9 same way4 ,sew two back portions to "o front4 ,:5 bo? yoke & l9+ are ready1 p9 toge!r s t ! two "r sides are toge!r & seams mat* at %\ld]s4 ,ba/e c>efully toge!r all ar\nd ) "o-f\r? in* seams only1 except across ! bottom at wid? ( *e/ l9e4 ,be c>eful n to take deep] seams1 = !n ! yoke w be too small4 ,! *e/ l9e wid? ( ! yoke is left op5 s ! skirt c be plac$ betwe54 ,! back portions ( ! yoke are also left op5 at ! bottom4 ,aft] ba/+1 sew bel[ ! ba/+ ) runn+ & back /it*4 ,remove ! ba/+s & turn ! yoke inside out4 ,crease edges c>efully4 ,y\r yoke w lap "o-half in* 9 back :5 f9i%$4 ,n[ y are ready to atta* ! skirt to ! yoke4 ,to atta* ! yoke4 ,y w atta* ! front ( ! yoke to ! front ga!r$ wid?4 ,f9d ! c5t] ( front yoke4 ,m>k ) p94 ,f9d ! c5t] ( ga!r$ wid?4 ,place ! "r side ( ! yoke to ! "r side ( ! skirt wid?1 c5t] to c5t]2 & p94 ,d n p9 ! l9+ yoke1 = x is to be sew$ d[n lat] to cov] ! seam y w n[ make4 ,p9 ! ends ( ! wid? to ! ends ( ! front yoke4 ,pull y\r ga!r+ ?read until ! fullness fits ! yoke2 !n move ! ga!rs along until !y fall ev5ly4 ,c y n di/ribute ! ga!rs c>efully1 z y p9 !m to ! yoke8 ,hold ! ga!rs t[>ds y1 & ba/e ) a "o-f\r? in* seam1 n any m4 ,n[ sew securely ) ! /rong /it*+ /it*1 :i* y us$ on ! bean bags4 ,to place ! yoke l9+4 ,y are ready n[ to cov] ^! r\gh edges ( ! seam ) ! l9+4 ,turn 9 "o-f\r? ( an in* to mat* ! wid? ( ! seam tak5 f ! yoke4 ,ba/e flat to ! seam s t ! edge ( ! turn$ l9+ j cov]s ! sew+ ( ! yoke seam4 ,f9i% ) a neat hemm+ /it*4 ,d y n ?9k y c jo9 ! two back portions ( ! yoke to ! skirt portions ( ! apron )\t any fur!r help8 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,f9d ?ree places :]e y ?9k runn+ & back /it* c be us$4 #b4 ,notice o!r places :]e ga!rs are drawn 9 to fit a space4 ,mollie ,/>k discov]$ sev]al places on ! g>m5ts worn by ! *ildr5 at s*ool4 ,,lesson #i ,,h[ ,,to ,,make ,a ,,buttonhole ,! apron is n[ entirely f9i%$1 except = fa/5+s4 ,%all we le>n to make a buttonhole1 & h[ to sew on buttons8 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls _h a conte/4 ,b>b>a ,oakes won a prize at ! ,pleasant ,valley ,c\nty ,fair4 ,practice 9 mak+ ! buttonhole4 ,long ago little girls 7 taught to make buttonholes1 :5 !y 7 five or six ye>s ( age4 ,gr&mo!r ,all5 le>n$ at t age4 ,surely by ! "t a girl is twelve ye>s old %e %\ld beg9 to le>n h[ to make buttonholes4 ,"o mu/ practice on a scrap ( clo?1 be=e mak+ ! buttonhole on ! g>m5t4 ,^! are ! /eps to consid] 9 practic+3 #a4 ,decide ab\t plac+ ! buttonhole4 ,is x to be 9 a v]tical or horizontal position on ! g>m5t8 ,h[ f> f ! edge8 #b4 ,cutt+4 #c4 ,ov]ca/+ ! cut edges4 ,h[ deep & h[ f> ap>t to take ! /it*es4 ,correct position to hold "w4 #d4 ,mak+ buttonhole /it* along "o edge4 #e4 ,turn+ corn]4 #f4 ,turn+ & buttonhol+ opposite edge4 #g4 ,f9i%+ second end4 ,plac+ ! buttonhole4 ,x is important to place ! buttonhole correctly4 ,9 "s g>m5ts1 :]e !re is no /ra91 z 9 ! front ( a %irtwai/ or ( loose corset cov]1 ! buttonholes c be made to run up & d[n4 ,"o %\ld decide h[ f> f ! edge & exactly :]e ! buttonhole is ne$$4 ,m>k ! place ) p9holes4 ,= ! apron place ?ree buttonholes 9 ! yoke1 "o 9 middle & o!rs ne> ea* end1 ab\t "o-f\r? in* f ! edge ( ! yoke at c5t] back4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bg4--;,cutt+ ! buttonhole4 ,cutt+ ! buttonhole4 ,"o %\ld cut truly & exactly1 on a ?read4 ,if a pair ( buttonhole scissors is n available1 fold ! mat]ial halfway betwe5 ! p9 pricks :i* m>k$ its location1 s t ! p9 passes ?r\gh bo? ends ( ! locat$ buttonhole4 ,cut f ! fold$ edge to ! p91 by plac+ ! fold well )9 ! op5$ scissors & cutt+ ev5ly 7,fig4 #bg74 ,= ! apron cut "o-half in* buttonholes & "o-f\r? ( an in* 9 f ! edge4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bh4--,! ov]ca/+ /it* = r\gh edges4 ,ov]ca/+ ! buttonhole4 ,y h n all le>n$ ! ov]ca/+ /it*4 ,practice x on a scrap ( clo?4 ,look at ! picture 7,fig4 #bh7 c>efully4 ,! ov]ca/+ /it* is us$ on edges to prev5t ravel+4 ,hold ! buttonhole along ! top ( ! fir/ f+]4 ,beg9 )\t knot1 & at ! end f>!/ away f a f9i%$ edge2 z at ! end ( skirt b& or edge ( wai/4 ,"w ov] end ( ?read4 ,po9t ne$le t[>d left %\ld] to make a slant+ /it*4 ,make ab\t ?ree or f\r /it*es on ea* side ( ! buttonhole 7,fig4 #bi74 ,! dep? %\ld be ab\t "o-eigh? ( an in*4 ,! corn] /it*es %\ld be tak5 s t ! ne$le is po9t$ at "r angles to ! cut be=e ! buttonhole is turn$4 ,d n =get t1 aft] "o side is ov]ca/1 x is necess>y to turn ! buttonhole ar\nd s ! o!r cut edge may be ov]ca/4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bi4--,ov]ca/+ ! cut buttonhole4 ,mak+ ! buttonhole /it*4 ,:5 ! buttonhole has be5 ov]ca/1 ! ne$le %\ld be 9 position at ! beg9n+ ( ! buttonhole :]e ! ov]ca/+ 0 />t$4 ,po9t ! ne$le at "r angles to ! edge1 & take a /it* "o-eigh? ( an in* deep 7,fig4 #cj74 ,hold buttonhole s t x lies flat on top ( ! fir/ f+]4 ,d n spread x op54 ,?r[ ! d\ble ?read f ! eye ( ! ne$le1 ar\nd ! po9t1 9 ! same direction z ! buttonhole is be+ work$1 f "r to left4 ,draw ne$le ?r\gh1 pull+ ! ?read at "r angles to & t[>d ! cut edge ( ! buttonhole4 ,a little f9i%+ loop call$ ! purl w be =m$ at ! edge4 ,x is ?is :i* prev5ts ! edge ( ! buttonhole f we>+4 ,cont9ue along "o edge until ! corn] is rea*$4 ,rememb] all /it*es are to be ! same dep? & to h ab\t ! space ( a ?read betwe5 /it*es1 & ! purl is to lie exactly on ! edge4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cj4--,! buttonhole /it*4 ,turn+ ! corn]4 ,!re are sev]al ways ( f9i%+ ! corn]s ( buttonholes4 ,!y may h two fan ends1 or "o fan & "o b>1 or two b>r$ ends4 ,h[ c we tell :i* way to plan8 ,a b>r$ end is /rong] ?an "o :i* has only a fan4 ,"o mu/ judge h[ ! buttonhole is to be us$1 & !n make ! prop] comb9ation ( ends4 ,! picture 7,fig4 #ca7 %[s bo? ! fan & ! b>4 ,! fan is made ) ! same buttonhole /it*4 ,five /it*es make a good fan4 ,! ?ird "o is tak5 on a l9e ) ! cut & is ! deepe/1 & ! two /it*es ea* side are slant+ & ( a dep? to make an ev5 fan effect at ! turn4 ,! fan c be made m easily by turn+ ! buttonhole s t ! end to be work$ ) ! fan is po9t$ t[>ds ! work] & ! cut edge is ov] ! f+]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ca4--,! fan end & ! b> end ( ! buttonhole4 ,buttonhol+ second side4 ,aft] mak+ ! fan1 turn ! buttonhole1 & along ! second side make ! buttonhole /it* ( ! same dep? & ev5ness z along ! fir/ side4 ,f9i%+ second end4 ,practice a b> end4 ,turn buttonhole s t ! end to be f9i%$ lies across f+] ) fan end t[>ds ! work]4 ,make two or ?ree small /it*es "o ov] ! o!r to b> ! end1 ^! to ext5d across wid? ( buttonhole /it*es4 ,ov] ^! ! blanket /it* is to be plac$4 ,?is is v easy4 ,look at ! picture 7,fig4 #hb7 ( x on page #ach4 ,^! /it*es are to be tak5 close toge!r & ?r\gh ! clo?1 ar\nd ! ?ree b>r$ /it*es4 ,?is makes a firm f9i%4 ,po9t ! ne$le t[>ds ! work] & make a /raight r[ ( blanket /it*es4 ,sew+ on a button4 ,/>t ) a d\ble ?read1 & make two /it*es "o ov] ! o!r on ! "r side ( ! g>m5t4 ,/r+ a button on ! ne$le1 to cov] />t+ /it*es4 ,place a p9 on top ( ! button4 ,sew ov] x ) /it*es cross$ back & =? ?r\gh ! holes ( ! button4 ,! /it*es %\ld be tak5 s t ! pull ( ! button w come on ! w>p ?reads ( ! g>m5t4 ,on ! wrong side1 ! /it*es %\ld appe> 9 p>allel b>s ly+ on ! wo( or fill+ ?read4 ,on ! top ( ! button1 ! /it*es %\ld cross4 ,:y is x necess>y to sew ov] ! p98 ,remove ! p9 & w9d ?read ar\nd ! /it*es "u ! button4 ,f9i% on wrong side ) sev]al f9i%+ /it*es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cb4--,! p9 prev5ts ! button f be+ sew$ too ne> ! clo? & all[s space = button+ ! g>m5t4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,practice ov]ca/+4 #b4 ,practice blanket /it*4 #c4 ,practice mak+ buttonhole4 a4 ,cutt+4 b4 ,ov]ca/+4 c4 ,buttonhol+4 d4 ,fan4 e4 ,buttonhol+4 f4 ,b>4 #d4 ,practice sew+ on "o button at home & mak+ "o buttonhole4 #e4 ,br+ to s*ool g>m5ts :i* ne$ buttons4 ,sew ! buttons on4 ,,lesson #aj ,,! ,,use ,,( ,,! ,,comm]cial ,,patt]n ,h y ev] b\ght a real patt]n & tri$ to use x8 ,m>jorie ,all5 says %e ?9ks sometimes x is q l a puzzle4 ,let u le>n h[ to cut our petticoats f a real patt]n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cc4--,le>n+ to cut a free-h& patt]n4 ,c y cut a patt]n8 ,p]haps y h cut patt]ns = si/]'s dolls' clo?+ 7,fig4 #cc74 ,?is is probably h[ y did x4 ,y p9n$ ! pap] to ! doll's body or held x 9 place :ile y cut ar\nd ! armhole1 across ! %\ld]1 "u ! *9 = ! curv$ neck1 & !n y cut ! o!r %\ld] & armhole 9 ! same way4 ,"u ! arm y made a slant+ cut t[>ds ! feet s ! dress or apron w\ld be wid] at ! bottom4 ,try ?is if y h nev] done x4 ,x is good fun4 ,m>jorie dress$ a doll = little ,alice :5 %e 0 sick1 & cut ! patt]n 9 ?is way4 ,?is is a free & easy way to make patt]ns4 ,"s dressmak]s make patt]ns 9 ?is way & d n h to s5d to ! /ore = a patt]n4 ,%all we s5d = a patt]n8 ,patt]ns are b\ght by age or by measure3 a nightdress1 draw]s1 or a skirt patt]n is ord]$ = f\rte5 ye> age2 a %irtwai/ = #cd in* bu/ measure4 ,patt]ns sometimes give o!r measures2 a dress skirt may /ate ! wai/ measure1 ! l5g? ( skirt1 & ! measure ar\nd ! hips4 ,= *ildr5 & = "y girls1 ! patt]ns c ne>ly always be b\ght accord+ to age2 b1 z "s girls are l>ge = _! age & "s small1 ,miss ,james w h to help ord] ! "r sizes4 ,_m good magaz9es (f] patt]ns = sale4 ,!re are1 also1 /ores or firms :i* make a bus9ess ( sell+ no?+ b patt]ns4 ,"s patt]ns are bett] ?an o!rs4 ,! simple/ are usually ! be/1 if ! figure & its proportions h be5 kept 9 m9d4 ,let u op5 our skirt patt]n4 ,we h b\ght two3 "o a #ab-ye> size1 & "o a #ad-ye>4 ,! small] girls may use ! #ab-ye> size1 & ! l>g] girls ! #ad-ye> size4 ,h[ _m pieces are !re = ?is patt]n8 ,b>b>a /ood be=e ! class1 & ,julia held ! pieces :]e %e ?\ght !y w\ld belong 9 ! skirt4 ,yes1 surely ! /rip is = ! belt or b&4 ,is x long en\gh8 ,no1 only half4 ,:at are ! o!r two pieces8 ,yes1 "o is = ! back4 ,is x l>ge en\gh8 ,no1 only half4 ,only "o piece is left4 ,x mu/ be ! front4 ,is x l>ge en\gh8 ,_m patt]ns are made1 giv+ only half a front or half a belt4 ,su* pieces mu/ be cut d\ble :5 y wi% to h ! front or belt 9 "o piece4 ,! way to d ?is is to p9 ! patt]n on a fold$ edge ( ! clo?4 ,we w "k if we consult ! p]=ations on ! patt]n1 & ! pr9t$ directions4 ,we mu/ d ?is1 !n1 9 cutt+ ! front4 ,let u hold ! patt]n to ! light4 ,:at d y see8 ,:y d y suppose ! little holes or p]=ations h be5 arrang$ 9 gr\ps or /raight r[s8 ,b>b>a said %e c\ld n und]/& :y4 ,x is all a secret :i* ! description on ! patt]n w tell4 ,to-day we %all le>n two ?+s3 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cd4--,lay+ ! patt]n on ! clo?4 ,:i* d y ?9k is ! fold edge1 ,a or ,b8 #a4 ,h[ to tell :i* portion ( ! patt]n is to be plac$ on ! w>p ( ! clo?4 #b4 ,:5 to place ! half patt]n on a fold$ edge1 s z to cut ! portion 9 "o piece in/ead ( 9 half a piece l ! patt]n4 ,! patt]n may say ! long l9e ( s+le p]=ations is to be plac$ on ! w>p ?reads4 ,c y d t :5 we beg9 to cut8 ,y w h to be c>eful to f9d ! w>p & to lay ! patt]n exactly4 ,! patt]n may say ! gr\p ( ?ree little p]=ations or holes at ! edge ( ! front patt]n means t edge is to be plac$ on a /raight fold ( ! clo?4 ,x is wise always to /udy all ! pieces ( a patt]n4 ,! p>ts are usually numb]$4 ,c y see h[8 ,! description on ! patt]n tells ! "n ( ea* piece4 ,v (t5 only half ( a portion is giv54 ,y w always rememb] n[ :at mu/ be done :5 t occurs4 ,x is a good ?+ always to "k ea* portion & to hold x up to ! p]son to see if x is too l>ge or too small4 ,!n y w und]/& ! p>ts1 be=e y beg9 to cut4 ,sometimes x is necess>y to add to ! l5g? or to %ort5 ! patt]n4 ,"s patt]ns say all[ = seams 9 cutt+1 & o!rs say seams h be5 all[$4 ,:at diff]5ce w ?is make :5 y beg9 to cut8 ,%all we le>n to take a few measurem5ts8 ,!n we c judge if our patt]n is too l>ge or too small4 ,x w also help y 9 s5d+ = patt]ns4 ,! bu/ measure is easy to take4 ,pass ! tape measure "u ! arms1 & ov] ! fulle/ "p ( ! bu/1 n too tight2 br+ x to ! c5t] ( ! back1 slop+ ! tape slightly upw>d betwe5 ! %\ld] blades4 ,! wai/ measure is a snug measure ar\nd ! smalle/ "p ( ! wai/4 ,= girls ?is measure %\ld n be too snug4 ,! skirt measures are tak5 f ! wai/ l9e to ! floor at ! front1 at ! sides ov] ! hips1 & at ! back4 ,= %ort skirts "o mu/ d$uct f ! full l5g?s ! numb] ( in*es desir$ f ! floor4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,op5 a patt]n & see if y c tell ! diff]5t p>ts4 ,:i* are to be cut on a fold$ edge8 ,h[ are y to tell :i* way ! patt]n is to lie on ! w>p ?reads8 #b4 ,practice tak+ a skirt measure2 !n1 a wai/ measure4 ,,lesson #aa ,,tak+ ,,measurem5ts ,,& ,,cutt+ ,,out ,,! ,,petticoat ,we und]/& our skirt patt]ns4 ,let u take our skirt measures1 front & back1 &1 if x is necess>y to *ange our patt]n1 we w decide h[ mu* to add or take (f be=e cutt+ ! g>m5ts4 ,to *ange patt]n4 ,if y mu/ add two or ?ree in*es to ! l5g? ( y\r patt]n1 ?is mu/ be done z y cut4 ,or possibly y may wi% to %ort5 ! patt]n4 ,if y wi% to %ort5 x1 take a plait ( "o in* ab\t 9 ! middle ( y\r patt]n1 crease1 & p9 x4 ,by tak+ ?is plait r ?an cutt+ (f ! am\nt f ! bottom1 ! good fl>e ( ! skirt is sav$4 ,d y "k :at ^! pieces ( ! skirt are call$ :i* are wid] at ! bottom ?an at ! top8 ,:y is a gore made su* a %ape8 ,c y ?9k ( ! advantages8 ,9 cutt+ f a patt]n 9 :i* a plait has be5 laid1 "o mu/ be c>eful to c>ry ! outl9e ( ! patt]n ev5ly at ! place :]e ! fold ( ! plait comes4 ,to l5g!n a patt]n4 ,make a /raight cut across a gore ab\t ! middle f side to side4 ,p9 or pa/e a /rip ( pap] ! desir$ extra l5g? betwe5 ! two pieces4 ,?is pres]ves ! bottom fl>e4 ,if l5g? 7 add$ at ! bottom1 ! fl>e w\ld be too great4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ce4--,! petticoat = ! *ildr5 ( ! home4 ,to cut ! skirts4 ,"o mu/ /udy c>efully ! economical use ( mat]ial4 ,x is l a puzzle to fit ! patt]n to ! clo?1 s t ! p]=ations are obey$ exactly & !re is en\gh clo? = all ! p>ts4 ,! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley h decid$ to make ! petticoats = ! *ildr5 at ! summ] home4 ,! ladies ( ! bo>d furni%$ ! mat]ials4 ,!y h *os5 g+ham = "s & out+ flannel = o!rs4 ,! belts are to be made ( musl94 ,! mat]ial is all "o y>d wide4 ,by fold+ ! out+ flannel selv$ge to selv$ge1 & plac+ ! triple p]=ations ( ! patt]n ( ! front gore on ?is fold1 ! front c be cut all 9 "o piece4 ,x is r a circul> gore4 ,n all gores are ! same %ape4 ,see if y c f9d o!r %ap$ gores 9 dress skirts4 ,! two back gores ( ! skirt c be cut f ano!r wid?4 ,be sure to obey ! directions = plac+ ! p]=ations on ! w>p4 ,h[ _m l5g?s ( clo? are ne$$ to cut su* a skirt8 ,h[ mu* w y all[ = hems at ! bottom8 ,z ! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley _h decid$ on two in*es f9i%$1 !y all[$ #b-;in*es extra 9 cutt+4 ,"o mu/ always ?9k ab\t ?is4 ,all seams h be5 all[$ on _! patt]ns4 ,be sure to lay all ! pieces ( ! patt]n on ! clo? be=e cutt+4 ,f9d a flat surface4 ,rememb] t ! wide end ( a gore is apt to cut to bett] advantage at ! end ( ! piece ( clo?4 ,c ! gores be fitt$ s z to cut m economically8 7,fig4 #cd47 ,p9 ! p>ts c>efully1 n us+ too _m p9s4 ,m>k all ! not*es ) p5cil1 *alk1 or ba/+ ?read4 ,d n cut not*es2 "o is liable to be c>eless & to make !m too l>ge4 ,use long cuts1 & make ev5 edges 9 cutt+4 ,good %e>s help4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,draw on ! blackbo>d diff]5t %ap$ dress gores :i* y h notic$4 #b4 ,) ! t9y patt]ns ( ! skirt :i* y\r tea*] has cut1 %[ h[ to lay !m mo/ economically on ! r$ musl9 :i* repres5ts y\r mat]ial4 #c4 ,:at w\ld y d if y 7 us+ a patt]n :i* did n all[ = seams8 ,,lesson #ab ,,mak+ ,,! ,,petticoats ,let u beg9 to sew ! petticoats4 ,notice all ! not*es :i* 7 m>k$ lightly ) p5cil1 & foll[ all ! /eps c>efully3 #a4 ,place ! two back portions s t !y jo9 ! front z ! not*es indicate4 #b4 ,p9 f ! top ( ! gores4 #c4 ,ba/e ! ?ree gores toge!r ) -in* seams1 beg9n+ at ! bottom4 ,c y tell :y8 #d4 ,sew ! seams on ! wrong side1 us+ ! /it*+ /it*4 ,! back seam is to be left op5 five in*es at ! top = ! placket op5+4 #e4 ,ov]ca/ all ! seam edges1 ov]ca/+ ! two ?icknesses ( ! seams toge!r4 #f4 ,turn hems at ! bottom ( ! skirt4 ,fir/1 turn -in*2 second1 turn two in*es4 ,ba/e c>efully1 lay+ little plaits neatly :]e necess>y on acc\nt ( extra fullness4 ,always h ! seams ( ! turn$ hem lie on seams ( skirt4 ,sew hem ) hemm+ /it* or fea!r/it* 7see page #abj74 #g4 ,f9i% placket op5+4 ,on "r side make -in* hem1 ! fir/ turn & second -in*4 ,turn hem to inside ( skirt4 ,ba/e & hem4 ,on left side ( op5+ make hem -in* f9i%$4 ,make fir/ turn & second -in*4 ,ba/e & hem neatly4 #h4 ,to put ! skirt on ! b&3 ,a4 ,cut b&4 ,take wai/ measure2 add to x "o in* = lapp+ & two in*es = ! turn+s1 "o at ea* end ( b&4 ,cut b& l5g?wise ( ! musl91 ) ! w>p ?reads1 & twice ! desir$ wid? f9i%$ plus -in* = turn+s4 ,b4 ,ga!r petticoat -in* f edge1 ) two ga!r+ ?reads "o bel[ ! o!r4 ,divide skirt 9 half2 ga!r f c5t] front to back at "r side1 & f c5t] front to back at left side4 ,c4 ,turn 9 ends ( b& "o in*4 ,p9 c5t] ( b& to c5t] front ( petticoat1 "r side ( b& to "r side ( petticoat4 ,p9 s t ! edge ( b& is ev5 ) ! ga!r$ edge ( skirt4 ,p9 ends ( b& to ! ga!r$ back portions ( skirt1 ) ends ( b&s to ends ( ga!rs4 ,turn ga!rs t[>ds work]1 & di/ribute 9 same mann] z :5 atta*+ yoke ( apron to ! apron skirt4 ,ba/e -in* f edge ( b&1 & betwe5 ! two r[s ( ga!r+ /it*es4 ,sew ) /it*+ /it*4 ,turn b& ov] to wrong side4 ,turn 9 -in*4 ,ba/e & hem flat4 ,ov]h& ! turn$-9 ends ( ! b& neatly4 ,d4 ,f9i% ) buttonhole & button at back1 or ) two buttonholes1 to button to wai/4 ,if ! skirt is to be atta*$ 9 ?is way1 a buttonhole %\ld be made 9 ! c5t] front ( ! b& also4 ,?is %\ld be up & d[n 9 ! b&4 ,! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley _h a surprise p>ty1 :5 ! aprons 7 f9i%$1 & w5t to ! ,fre% ,air ,home4 ,?is 0 9 ,june be=e s*ool clos$4 ,"s ( ! summ] *ildr5 _h arriv$4 ,! girls made cookies at home & _h a real p>ty ) ! *ildr54 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,tell h[ ! putt+ on ( ! skirt b& diff]s f putt+ on ! apron yoke4 #b4 ,d y "k ( any o!r k9d ( placket f9i% besides ! "o :i* y h made 9 ! skirt8 ,tell :]e y h se5 x4 ,,review ,,problems ,i4 ,c y make a useful bag on :i* ! foll[+ /it*es might be us$3 ba/+1 runn+1 hemm+1 /it*+ /it*1 ov]h&+1 buttonhole8 ,,ii4 ,plan ano!r article1 us+ z _m ( ^! /it*es z possible1 & cutt+ ! article f a patt]n4 ,try to make ?is at home = s*ool cr$it4 ,miss ,james ( ,pleasant ,valley has a k9d ( score c>d :i* %e uses 9 m>k+ ! girls4 ,p]haps y\r tea*] w give y cr$it = y\r home "w4 ,,score ,,c>d ,girl's "n ,i4 ,article ,a4 ,g5]al appe>ance #a4 ,g5]al neatness ( sew+ #aj #b4 ,cleanl9ess #ae #c4 ,appropriat5ess ( mat]ial #be ,b4 ,h& "w #a4 ,regul>ity ( /it*es #be #b4 ,suitability ( /it*es #be ---- #ajj ,illu/ration ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,! ,,girls ,,( ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,s*ool ,,le>n ,,to ,,make ,,simple ,,g>m5ts ,?is ye> ! girls ( ! ,sew+ ,league ( ,pleasant ,valley w receive cr$it = ! g>m5ts !y make4 ,miss ,james w help ! girls to />t ! g>m5ts at s*ool & w give full cr$it if ! "w is complet$ neatly4 ,a nightdress1 a petticoat1 corset cov]1 or "u slip1 & p]haps a :ite summ] dress skirt w be made4 ,! s*ool bo>d has j furni%$ a ma*9e1 s ,miss ,james is plann+ to tea* ! girls to use x4 ,_m ( !m c practice at home too4 ,mrs4 ,/>k1 :o has two ma*9es1 told ,mollie %e might br+ ! girls at any "t = practice4 ,c y plan to le>n to /it* at y\r s*ool8 ,!re are _m ?+s "o does n wi% to sew by h&1 & does n h "t to make 9 t way4 ,n long ago ,miss ,trav]s1 :o came f ! ,/ate ,agricultural ,college to speak to ! ,mo!rs' ,club at ,pleasant ,valley1 told !m t (t5 p d n use good common s5se ab\t ?is "q4 ,%e said !re are times :5 "o wi%es to make g>m5ts & articles by h&1 b x is fooli% to d s :5 "o has o!r duties 9 life to p]=m :i* are m important4 ,h&made g>m5ts are v beautiful to look at1 b :5 !y mean ! sacrifice ( heal?1 because "o has rema9$ indoors to make !m1 !y appe> less beautiful4 ,miss ,trav]s & ! mo!rs _h a long discussion ab\t ! wages paid 9 l>ge cities to wom5 :o d ?is f9e "w4 ,miss ,trav]s said ! wage paid is usually v l[4 ,,lesson #a ,,"s ,,cotton ,,mat]ials ,,suitable ,,= ,,und]we> ,suppose y ord] ! musl9 = y\r nightdress &1 :ile wait+ = x to arrive1 le>n ab\t ! cotton mat]ials :i* c be us$ = und]we>4 ,c y add a :ole page ( :ite mat]ials to y\r textile books8 ,suppose y op5 ! surprise box on y\r tea*]'s desk4 ,x is q full4 ,let u sort ! samples & exam9e ! :ite ones1 especially1 to-day2 = y\r und]we> is to be made ( :ite cotton mat]ial4 ,let u look also at ! ones :i* are almo/ :ite4 ,!y are unblea*$ :ite2 ! o!rs h be5 blea*$ ) a *emical to make !m look s sn[y :ite4 ,!y h be5 dipp$ 9 a ba? ( *loride ( lime1 & !n 9 ano!r ba? ( wat] & sulphuric acid1 until ! mat]ial has become :ite4 ,d y "k h[ our gr&mo!rs us$ to blea* %eets & o!r unblea*$ articles :i* !y wi%$ to h :ite8 ,gr&mo!r ,all5 us$ to blea* ^? %e made on h] h& loom4 ,:y did !y place !m on ! grass 9 ! sun8 ,:at blea*$ !m8 ,?is unblea*$ sample is musl92 x is = %eets4 ,"h is "s :ite :i* is ( ! same pla9 weave4 ,! unblea*$ is *eap]4 ,x comes "o y>d wide & c be b\ght = #e c5ts &1 9 bett] qualities1 up to #ae c5ts p] y>d4 ,x we>s v well--bett] ?an blea*$ musl94 ,c y tell :y8 ,x is us$ = %eets & pill[cases4 ,we may lat] make a pair ( pill[cases f ?is unblea*$ musl94 ,! :ite musl9 c be b\ght 9 a *eap quality = #g c5ts a y>d2 & x may also be b\ght 9 f9] qualities4 ,"h is a piece ( ,alp9e rose musl9 f our sample box4 ,isn't t a pretty "n = x8 ,x is s(t & mu* f9]1 & co/s #cj c5ts a y>d4 ,blea*$ musl9s come 9 wid? f #cf to #gb in*es4 ,! wide wid? is us$ = %eet+s & is wov5 t wid? t no seam may be necess>y ?r\gh ! c5t] ( ! %eet4 ,?is s(t1 light cotton mat]ial is call$ na9sook4 ,isn't t a que] "n8 ,x is f an old ,h9doo ^w = a mat]ial made & us$ 9 ,india4 ,na9sook is us$ = und]we> & clo?+ = baby4 ,x comes 9 sev]al grades4 ,miss ,james has "s co>s] samples1 too4 ,x is s(t & is ne>ly always f9i%$1 :5 wov51 ) v little dress+ or />* to /iff5 x4 ,x comes #bg in*es 9 wid? & v>ies 9 price f #ae to #ej c5ts a y>d4 ,?is s(t cr9kly look+ mat]ial is call$ cotton crpe4 ,x is us$ a great deal = und]we> & = %irt wai/s or dresses4 ,x is consid]$ v economical4 ,does any "o "k :y8 ,yes1 because x is easily wa%$ &1 :5 hung out 9 ! fre% air & sun%9e1 does n ne$ to be iron$4 ,?9k ( all ! "t sav$4 ,! little cr9kles dry 9 place & look well4 ,x co/s f #ab to #ae c5ts p] y>d1 & comes ab\t #cj in*es wide4 ,?is piece is a cambric4 ,x is a firm pla9 weave & is good = und]we>4 ,?is quality is f9e1 & its "n is ,b]keley cambric4 ,"s grades ( cambric are co>s] & are call$ cambric musl94 ,!y are glaz$ & smoo? 9 f9i%1 & are us$ = l9+s & = o!r purposes4 ,t "n is also =eign1 f ,cambrai1 ,france4 ,cambric is wov5 a y>d wide & co/s f #aj to #be c5ts p] y>d4 ,x is v durable mat]ial = und]we>1 n q s heavy z musl91 & /rong4 ,dimity is ?94 ,look at ?is piece4 ,mollie _h a dress made ( x la/ summ]4 ,x is %e] & light1 & has little cords or ribs4 ,x is always easy to recognize on t acc\nt4 ,x is us$ = summ] dresses1 sometimes = da9ty und]we>2 b x is n suitable = und]we> :i* mu/ h h>d usage e day4 ,x co/s f #ae to #ej c5ts p] y>d & is wov5 ab\t a y>d wide4 ,sometimes x comes 9 colors & also ) pretty pr9t$ figures on x4 ,see1 "h are "s pr9t$ ones4 ,:at da9ty patt]ns & colors6 ,w\ld y l a dress ( "o ( ^!8 ,miss ,james has f\nd two o!r ?91 %e]1 :ite ones4 ,!re are s _m ,i wond] if we c rememb] all4 ,?is ?9 "o is lawn & is a pla9 weave4 ,x comes 9 inexp5sive qualities at #e c5ts & 9 bett] qualities = #be c5ts4 ,! wid? v>ies f #cf to #dj in*es4 ,d y "k ( any?+ at home or 9 s*ool1 made ( lawn8 ,yes1 dresses1 aprons1 curta9s4 ,x comes 9 colors too2 "h is a pretty blue4 ,x is smoo? & />*$ & press$ :5 "o buys x4 ,?is o!r is s(t b n s />*$4 ,x is call$ mull4 ,t is a ,h9doo ^w1 too4 ,d y rememb] t cotton 0 gr[n 9 ,india _m ye>s be=e we _h x 9 ,am]ica2 t is :y ! cotton mat]ials s (t5 h ,indian names4 ,mull is too f9e = und]we>1 b x is us$ = pretty :ite dresses4 ,"h are two heavy :ite samples2 "o is call$ ,indian head1 & ! o!r duck4 ,su* /range names6 ,d y "k _! uses8 ,p]haps y\r "m _h a skirt la/ summ] ( duck or ,indian ,head4 ,mrs4 ,ald5 ( ,pleasant ,valley _h "o4 ,bo? ^! cotton mat]ials we> well4 ,! duck is us$ = m5's tr\s]s1 also2 & 9 v heavy qualities1 x is us$ = sails or t5ts & awn+s4 ,john ,ald5's fir/ long tr\s]s 7 made ( duck4 ,h[ important he felt6 ,duck is sometimes color$ blue or o!r colors4 ,x v>ies 9 wid? f #bg to #cf in*es & co/s f #ab c5ts up4 ,! ,indian head is us$ = ! same purposes z duck & comes 9 ! same wid? = ab\t ! same price1--#ae c5ts a y>d up1 accord+ to quality4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cf4--;,a t[el :i* ,miss ,james uses at s*ool4 ,we %all h "t to /udy ab\t only two m to-day4 ,!y are bo? heavy4 ,?is is galatea1 & comes 9 :ite1 l ?is sample1 or 9 colors4 ,x is firm l duck & ,indian head4 ,c y tell = :at x is us$8 ,h y ev] se5 any be=e8 ,x is us$ = dress skirts1 & v (t5 = girls' middy bl\ses or *ildr5's clo!s4 ,x wa%es v well4 ,x is #bg in*es wide & co/s f #ad to #be c5ts a y>d4 ,! la/ sample is cotton birdseye or huckaback4 ,x is sold by ! y>d or by ! piece4 ,x co/s less p] y>d to buy x by ! piece ( #aj y>ds4 ,x v>ies 9 co/1 accord+ to quality1 & is wov5 f #ah to #bg in*es wide4 ,we also h huckaback t[els made ( cotton or l95 or a mixture ( cotton & l954 ,"h is "o :i* ,miss ,james uses at s*ool 7,fig4 #cf74 ,i wond] :o c g to ! bo>d & make a li/ ( all ! new :ite mat]ial we h f\nd 9 ! surprise box4 ,%all we put !m 9 our sample book8 ,:o w write ! use ( ea*1 opposite ! "n8 ,if y _c rememb] ! prices & wid?s1 look on ! samples2 _m are m>k$1 especially ^? :i* h come f ! t[n /ore4 ,:i* d y ?9k w be be/ = y\r nightg[ns8 ,yes1 cambric1 na9sook1 or musl94 ,:i* w be s(te/ & lighte/8 ,:i* is ! heavie/ ( ^! ?ree8 ,%all we use ! musl98 ,x is /rong & w we> well4 ,%all we *oose ?is piece8 ,x is #aj c5ts a y>d4 ,h[ mu* %all we ne$8 ,we %all talk ab\t x next lesson4 ,any "o :o wi%es to use ! unblea*$ musl9 :i* co/s #g c5ts1 may d s2 or ! f9] na9sook :i* is #ae c5ts a y>d4 ,h[ c ! unblea*$ be made :ite z x is us$8 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,look up ! /ory ( h[ clo? is blea*$ 9 any ( ! libr>y books on textiles1 or 9 ! encyclop$ia4 #b4 ,add six cotton mat]ials y h j /udi$ ab\t1 to y\r textile sample books4 #c4 ,decide :at k9d ( :ite mat]ial y wi% to use = y\r nightdress4 ,,lesson #b ,,select+ ,,patt]n ,,& ,,clo? ,,= ,,nightdress ,suppose y decide ab\t ! patt]n = y\r nightdresses1 & s5d = ! clo? & patt]n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cg4--;,a ,pleasant ,valley girl 9 a kimono nightdress4 ,a kimono nightdress4 ,miss ,james has a book ( patt]ns2 p]haps y\r tea*] has4 ,let u look at !m4 ,"h are ! nightdresses4 ,?is picture 7,fig4 #cg7 is a kimono nightdress2 t means ! sleeves are cut ) ! g[n all 9 "o1 n made sep>ately & sew$ 94 ,?is "n kimono is ,japanese & means a loose g>m5t4 ,! picture %[s a ,pleasant ,valley girl 9 a kimono nightdress4 ,miss ,james says !re is only "o piece to ?is patt]n & ! nightdress is easy to make4 ,! way to measure = ! am\nt ( mat]ial = su* a g[n is to take ! l5g? f ! %\ld] at ! side ( ! neck to ! floor & add ?ree in*es = a hem4 ,?is g[n c be cut )\t any %\ld] seams1 all 9 "o piece4 ,s y w ne$ twice ! l5g? f %\ld] to floor & hem4 ,:y8 ,if ! clo? is "o y>d or m wide1 x w n be necess>y to piece ! g[n2 s be sure to *oose mat]ial :i* is a y>d wide4 ,is !re any "o n[ :o does n "k h[ to measure = ! mat]ial = ! kimono nightdress8 ,let all write an ord] = a kimono nightdress patt]n & = ! musl94 ,take ea* o!r's measures fir/ & add toge!r ! am\nt ( clo? ne$$4 ,x w be easi] to s5d "o ord] = all4 ,! be/ lett] w be *os5 to s5d to ! /ore4 ,z "s girls are l>ge & "s small = _! ages1 x w be wise to ord] "o patt]n #ab-ye> size1 & ano!r #ad-ye> size4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,h[ mu* clo? w be ne$$ = a kimono nightdress if ! measure ( ! girl f %\ld] to floor is #ee in*es8 ,h[ mu* d y suppose ! ,pleasant ,valley girl 9 ! picture ne$$8 ,,lesson #c ,,h[ ,,cotton ,,clo? ,,is ,,wov5 ,n long ago we le>n$ h[ ! cotton plant furni%es u ) cotton = clo?+4 ,!re are _m p :o help 9 *ang+ ! cotton f fib] to clo?4 ,:ile y are wait+ = ! cotton mat]ial & ! patt]n1 %all we /udy h[ cotton clo? is made8 ,cotton is us$ = _m ?+s4 ,we le>n$ t cotton is %ipp$ 9 bales ( #ejj p\nds ea* f ! ,unit$ ,/ates to all p>ts ( ! _w4 ,! manufactur] receives x at ! factory & *anges x by _m processes into :at he wi%es to sell4 ,"s manufactur]s make only cotton ?reads ( v>i\s k9ds1 = sew+1 knitt+1 & cro*et+4 ,o!rs make cotton clo? ( "o v>iety or ( sev]al v>ieties4 ,we "k !re are _m k9ds manufactur$4 ,o!rs make absorb5t cotton1 gauze1 & su* ?+s = surgical use = ! sick4 ,"s make hosi]y1 gloves1 t[els2 & o!rs make knitt$ und]we>1 or laces & embroid]ies4 ,o!rs use cotton = w> purposes1 = guncotton4 ,john ,ald5 said he did n "k t cotton is us$ = s _m ?+s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ch4--,miss ,james' little loom4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ci4--;,a small loom made f a box cov]4 ,! loom = weav+ cotton4 ,we h le>n$ t clo? is made ( ?reads :i* run l5g?wise1 call$ ! w>p ?reads1 & ( crosswise ?reads1 call$ ! fill+ or wo(4 ,! ma*9e = hold+ ! ?reads & do+ ! "w is call$ a loom4 ,:at is ! firm edge :i* is wov5 call$8 ,look at ,miss ,james' little loom 7,fig4 #ch74 ,x %[s ! w>p1 & ! fill+ y>n z x passes ov] & "u & makes ! firm edge z x turns ea* trip back & =? ar\nd ! edge ?reads4 ,if y h nev] wov5 a piece ( mat]ial1 suppose y take a box cov] & make a small loom4 ,! picture 7,fig4 #ci7 %[s "o made at ,pleasant ,valley ,s*ool4 ,did y ev] see y\r gr&mo!r weave on a loom8 ,look at ! picture 7,fig4 #dj7 ( a gr&mo!r weav+ on a clo? loom4 ,x is n ,gr&mo!r ,all51 al?\gh %e kn[s h[ to weave4 ,! w>p ?reads are roll$ up on a big roll] at ! back ( ! loom & are ext5d$ to ! clo? roll] at ! front ne> :]e %e sits4 ,%e holds ! fill+ ?read 9 h] h&4 ,x is w\nd on a bobb9 :i* fits 9 ! %uttle4 ,%e ?r[s ! %uttle f side to side & works h] feet to alt]nate ! w>p ?reads1 9 ord] t ! fill+ ?read may g ov] & "u1 & make ! clo?4 ,look at ! %uttle 9 ! picture 7,fig4 #da72 x holds ! bobb9 ( ?read4 ,!re are _m k9ds ( looms4 ,to-day clo? is wov5 on looms run by ma*9]y4 ,x is mu* easi] & quick] ?an work+ by h&1 & s cotton clo? c be made m *eaply4 ,frank ,all5 says he saw a loom at ! silk factory he visit$4 ,if x 7 n = ma*9es1 our clo!s w\ld co/ mu* m ?an !y d4 ,?9k ( all ! p :o help to give u our cotton clo!s1 f ! plant] :o s[s ! se$ to ! manufactur] ^: m5 prep>e & weave x4 ,h y ev] visit$ a clo? factory & se5 ! _m ma*9es & he>d ! great buzz+ noise :i* !y make8 ,x is a busy place4 ,"s factories make only w>p1 or fill+1 y>ns4 ,!y are call$ sp9n+ factories or mills 7,fig4 #df74 ,!y s5d _! product to ! o!r manufactur]s :o h only weav+ ma*9es = mak+ ! y>ns into clo?4 ,x is ab\t #acj ye>s 7#aghi7 s9ce ! fir/ cotton mill 0 />t$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 & only a few ye>s long] s9ce ! fir/ mill 0 />t$ 9 ,engl&4 ,be=e t "t1 p ( diff]5t c\ntries made _! own looms accord+ to ! ways !y ?\ght out4 ,z m5 felt ! ne$ ( clo?+ to we>1 !y tri$ to make clo?2 & we f9d all k9ds ( primitive looms z _! inv5tion4 ,c y look up ! mean+ ( primitive8 ,notice ! two pictures 7,figs4 #dc & #dd7 ( primitive p weav+4 ,! ,indian girl is hold+ ! %uttle 9 h] "r h&2 ! loom is fa/5$ to some?+ & is also atta*$ at h] belt4 ,9 t way ! w>p ?reads are held securely :ile %e passes ! fill+ back & =?4 ,on page #acf y w f9d a picture 7,fig4 #ha7 ( a ,japanese girl weav+ silk4 ,notice ! loom2 f9d ! roll] hold+ ! w>p y>n4 ,f9d ! %uttle :i* %e uses to ?r[ ! fill+ y>n4 ,c y tell :]e %e rolls ! clo? z x is wov58 ,"u h] elb[s 9 ! picture is a clo? roll] on :i* %e rolls up ! wov5 clo? z %e weaves & unrolls ! w>p f ! w>p roll]4 ,isn't ?is a wond]ful /ory8 ,we h n yet le>n$ h[ ! cotton is made into ! w>p & fill+ ready to be wov54 ,we %all save t "p ( ! /ory = to-morr[4 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls & boys enjoy$ ?is "p ( ! /ory ab\t cotton & are anxi\s = ,miss ,james to tell "s m4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,drap] ,co41 ,hop$ale1 ,mass4 ,,fig4 #dj4--;,9 days gone by4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #da4--,! %uttle hold+ ! bobb9 ( y>n4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,drap] ,co41 ,hop$ale1 ,mass4 ,,fig4 #db4--;,a weav+ room 9 a mod]n factory4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,smi?sonian ,in/itute1 ,bureau ( ,am]ican ,e?nology4 ,,fig4 #dc4--;,indian girl weav+ a belt by h&4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dd4--;,ano!r primitive loom & a girl sp9n+4 ,! di/aff ) ! wool = sp9n+ is held "u ! girl's arm4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,try to make a simple loom4 ,take a piece ( c>dbo>d #aj #ab in*es4 ,make a r[ ( holes ab\t -in* ap>t "o in* f ! top2 ano!r r[ -in* ap>t "o in* f bottom4 ,/r+ ! w>p back & =? f hole to hole s x looks l ! picture 7,fig4 #ci74 ,weave a piece ( clo? ) ! fill+ ?read :i* goes ov] & "u4 #b4 ,visit a weav+ factory if y c4 #c4 ,see if y c sp9 a piece ( c>d$ wool4 ,p]haps y c c>d "s wool ) ! h& c>ds :i* y\r great gr&mo!r us$1 z ! ,pleasant ,valley girls did4 #d4 ,try to collect pictures ( sp9n+4 ,! primitive peoples did ?is 9 diff]5t ways4 ,,lesson #d ,,! ,,sp9n+ ,,( ,,cotton ,,into ,,y>n ,h[ ! manufactur] turns ! cotton into y>n ready = ! weav]4 ,?is is call$ sp9n+4 ,%all we /udy h[ x is done8 ,p]haps !re is "s "o 9 y\r class :o has visit$ a sp9n+ mill & c tell h[ cotton is clean$ & made ready = weav+4 ,?is is :at ! girls ( ! ,sew+ ,league ( ,pleasant ,valley saw ! day !y w5t to visit ! mill4 ,! ,camp ,fire girls w5t ! same day1 & ,miss ,a%ly1 _! gu>dian1 said t :at !y le>n$ w\ld c\nt z an honor4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #de4--,! cotton c>d+ ma*9e1 :i* cleans ! cotton4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,leon>d ,gre51 ,bo/on4 ,,fig4 #df4--;,a cotton sp9n+ room4 ,h[ cotton is prep>$ = sp9n+4 ,! girls w5t to ! l[] floor :]e ! cotton is receiv$4 ,!y saw ! bags & iron b&s remov$ & ! cotton pull$ ap>t by a que] ma*9e call$ a cotton op5]1 or bale break]1 = y rememb] ! cotton 0 press$ v h>d be=e be+ %ipp$4 ,! cotton is !n plac$ 9 pick]s1 or ma*9es :i* bl[ x ap>t & bl[ out ! leaves & du/ & dirt4 ,z ! cotton leaves ?is ma*9e1 x looks l a big piece 7#f ft4 wide7 ( cotton batt+ roll$ 9 a l>ge roll4 ,x looks s(t & clean4 ,!n ! girls wat*$ ! m5 place ?is roll at ! back ( ! next ma*9e1 call$ a c>d+ ma*9e 7,fig4 #de74 ,"h x 0 clean$ "s m2 & su* a wond]ful ?+ happ5$4 ,z x left ! ma*9e in/ead ( com+ out z a lap ( ! roll ( cotton l x w5t 91 x came out 9 a long ?ick coil :i* look$ l a rope1 & !re 7 tall r\nd cans ready to receive ?is cont9u\s l9e ( cotton rope4 ,h[ s(t & beautiful x look$6 ,:at wond]ful ma*9es ! manufactur] _h4 ,"s "o mu/ h made !m4 ,c y f9d out :o made ! fir/ loom run by ma*9]y8 ,john ,ald5 look$ x up 9 ! encyclop$ia4 ,d y "k :o inv5t$ ! fir/ sp9n+ ma*9e8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dg4--;,gr&mo!r ,all5's :eel us$ = sp9n+ wool4 ,!n ! girls visit$ ev] s _m ma*9es :i* w\nd ?is cotton rope on spools4 ,ea* ma*9e made ! rope ?9n] & f9] until x 0 drawn out z ?9 & r\nd z ! manufactur] wi%$ 7,fig4 #df74 ,b>b>a ,oakes notic$ ?is3 t ^! sp9n+ ma*9es n only drew out ! cotton rope & made x ?9n]1 b put 9 a twi/ :i* prev5t$ x f break+ s easily4 ,d y rememb] h[ ! cotton fib] look$ "u ! microscope8 ,! twi/ 9 ! fib] helps 9 ! sp9n+4 ,isn't x wond]ful to ?9k t su* t9y fib]s c be made into sp9n+ y>ns1 & y>ns wov5 into clo?8 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ! ,metropolitan ,museum ( ,art4 ,,fig4 #dh4 --,! flax :eel4 ,h[ cotton is spun4 ,did y ev] see any "o sp9 by h&8 ,"o day ! ,girls' ,league w5t to ,m>jorie ,all5's gr&mo!r's h\se4 ,%e took ! girls to ! attic & %[$ !m h] gr&mo!r's sp9n+ :eels 7,fig4 #dg74 ,!re 0 a l>ge "o = sp9n+ wool5 y>n4 ,?is %e call$ ! great :eel4 ,!n !re 0 a small "o call$ ! flax :eel 7,fig4 #dh7 = sp9n+ flax1 or l951 into y>n = weav+4 ,gr&mo!r sat d[n & %[$ !m h[ to sp9 7,fig4 #di74 ,%e press$ h] foot on ! treadle j l a sew+ ma*9e2 & ! :eels w5t r\nd4 ,! flax 0 on a little hold] call$ a di/aff4 ,see ! pictures 7,figs4 #dh & #di7 ( ! :eels4 ,%e held & drew ! flax :ile ! :eels ( ! ma*9e put 9 ! twi/4 ,t is j :at ! mod]n sp9n+ ma*9e does1 b x c accompli% mu* m 9 an h\r ?an gr&mo!r did 9 a day4 ,/ill x is a great satisfaction to possess "s ( ! beautiful old textiles spun & wov5 by gr&mo!r's h&s4 ,! girls _h ! pleasure ( op5+ a great *e/ 9 ! attic & look+ at ! h&-wov5 %eets & cov]lets :i* ,gr&mo!r ,all5 prizes s highly4 ,b>b>a ,oakes & ,mollie ,/>k fairly clapp$ _! h&s & said1 ,h[ beautiful ! colors are4 ,! cov]lets 7 made ( wool & cotton y>ns4 ,gr&mo!r %[$ ! girls ! h& c>ds :i* %e us$ :5 a girl 9 help+ h] "m prep>e wool into c>d$ rolls = sp9n+4 ,d y rememb] t ! cotton at ! factory pass$ ?r\gh a c>d+ ma*9e to be clean$ & made into a cotton rope8 ,gr&mo!r told ! girls %e us$ to d ! same = wool4 ,%e us$ ! little h& c>ds & drew ! bo>ds ) ! f9e tee? back & =? to clean ! fib]s1 & !n made little rolls = ! great :eel to sp94 ,! picture 7,fig4 #ej7 %[s h[ ! h& c>ds are us$4 ,wasn't t a long1 t$i\s process8 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,miss ,m>y ,e4 ,hoag4 ,,fig4 #di4--;,gr&mo!r ,all5 sat at h] flax :eel & %[$ ! girls h[ to sp94 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,miss ,m>y ,e4 ,hoag4 ,,fig4 #ej4 --,gr&mo!r ,all5 c>d+ wool by h&4 ,p]haps at y\r s*ool y c h an exhibit ( old indu/rial ?+s once us$ 9 ! home4 ,maybe y\r gr&mo!r has some?+ 9 ! attic--"s c>ds1 or :eels1 or old h&-wov5 mat]ials4 ,if y h a ,girls' ,sew+ ,league1 ! girls w1 p]haps1 s5d out invitations & invite ! mo!rs & gr&mo!rs4 ,! girls c prep>e "s c(fee & cookies at s*ool to s]ve ! aft]noon ( ! exhibit4 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls _h su* an aft]noon ent]ta9m5t & e>n$ five doll>s = _! s*ool fund4 ,!y w probably buy "s di%es = ! s*ool lun*4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,try to f9d "s pictures ( v primitive sp9n+4 ,c y make a sp9dle8 #b4 ,:at does ! process ( c>d+ d to ! cotton or wool8 #c4 ,plan an exhibition ( old cov]lets & o!r old h&-wov5 textiles4 ,invite y\r p>5ts & fri5ds4 ,,lesson #e ,,cutt+ ,,out ,a ,,nightdress ,! patt]ns & musl9 h probably arriv$4 ,suppose y cut out y\r nightdress4 ,miss ,james kept a memor&um ( ! am\nts ( mat]ial ne$$ by ea* girl = h] g[n1 & %e has divid$ ! clo?4 ,%e has1 also1 cut ) ,b>b>a's help sev]al patt]ns f ! comm]cial patt]n1 s t all may beg9 to "w at once4 ,miss ,james has _h su* nice bo>ds arrang$ & fa/5$ ) h+es to ! walls "u ! blackbo>ds4 ,!y are s conv5i5t = cutt+ & c be let d[n out ( ! way :5 n ne$$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ea4--,lay+ ! nightdress patt]n on ! clo?4 ,plac+ ! patt]n & cutt+ ! mat]ial4 ,let u look at our patt]ns4 ,"s girl w1 p]haps1 read al\d :at ! patt]n says 9 ! description pr9t$ on ! outside or on ! envelope ( ?is comm]cial patt]n4 ,:o w hold up ! nightdress patt]n1 %[+ h[ x is relat$ to ! figure8 ,:o c tell :at ! small gr\p ( dots on ! edge means8 ,:o rememb]s h[ we c tell ab\t lay+ ! patt]n correctly on ! w>p ( ! mat]ial8 ,^? two ?+s are important4 ,x is also necess>y to plan s z to wa/e z little z possible4 ,"s girls w f9d t _! patt]ns are too long4 ,measure f ! %\ld] at ! neck ( y\r nightdress patt]n1 & see if x is long] or %ort] ?an y\r measure4 ,if ! patt]n is too long1 fold up ! necess>y portion4 ,if too %ort1 d n =get y mu/ all[ extra :5 p9n+ ! patt]n on ! clo?4 ,h[ mu* ( ! :ole nightdress does ?is patt]n give8 ,if only "o-half is giv51 ! nightdress mu/ be cut on a fold2 back & front 9 "o ) a hole = ! neck1 z x slips ov] ! head4 ,h[ %all we fold ! clo? s z to cut on a fold8 ,:i* edge ( ! patt]n %all be plac$ on ! fold8 ,h y plac$ x mo/ economically on ! clo?8 ,n an in* %\ld be wa/$4 ,! patt]n may or may n all[ = seams4 ,:at w y d if x does n8 ,if y mu/ add = y\r hem at ! bottom1 d n =get to m>k1 ) a f9e p5cil m>k1 ! all[ance = hem beyond ! patt]n4 ,s y see !re are _m ?+s to rememb]4 ,c y all cut out y\r nightdresses to-day & ba/e -in* seams "u ! arms8 ,p9 y\r seams c>efully be=e ba/+4 ,in/ead ( ! %>p angle "u ! arm1 :i* ! kimono nightdress usually gives1 cut a good curve4 ,y\r tea*] w help y4 ,! curve makes a bett] l9e & is easi] to f9i%4 ,! pieces left mu/ be roll$ c>efully1 & y\r "n mu/ be writt5 on ! outside ( ! roll4 ,we may ne$ ! pieces lat]4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,cut a free-h& patt]n ( a kimono nightdress = y\r doll4 #b4 ,%[1 ) a piece ( newspap] to repres5t ! clo?1 h[ ! patt]n c be plac$ economically4 ,,lesson #f ,,! ,,p>ts ,,( ,a ,,sew+ ,,ma*9e ,%all we exam9e ! new ma*9e to-day & le>n to run x8 ,y mu/ practice be=e sew+ y\r seams4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,wilcox & ,gibbs ,sew+ ,ma*9e ,co4 ,,fig4 #eb4--,s+le ?read ma*9e4 ,d y "k t sew+ ma*9es 7 inv5t$ less ?an "o hundr$ ye>s ago8 ,our great-gr&mo!rs _h to d all _! sew+ by h&1 & "s ( our gr&mo!rs too4 ,a man by ! "n ( ,elias ,h[e1 ( ,cambridge1 ,massa*usetts1 fir/ ?\ght ab\t ! sew+ ma*9e2 & s9ce !n _m diff]5t k9ds h be5 inv5t$1 to be run by foot & also by me*anical p[]1--electricity4 ,we h two k9ds ( foot-p[] ma*9es4 ,"o k9d 7,fig4 #eb7 has only "o ?read1 :i* is plac$ on a spool on top2 & ! o!r 7,fig4 #ec71 ! two-?read or d\ble-?read1 is l ! "o we h at s*ool4 ,! d\ble-?read ma*9e is call$ a lock-/it* ma*9e1 because "o ?read is on top on a spool & ! o!r is on a little spool call$ a bobb9 9 ! %uttle "u ! plate4 ,! two ?reads lock toge!r z ! ma*9e works4 ,y w le>n h[ lat]4 ,! ma*9e ) only "o ?read on top is call$ a *a9-/it* ma*9e4 ,! /it*+ made by x rips v easily2 & ! ends mu/ be fa/5$ c>efully :5 "o /ops4 ,! d\ble-?read ma*9e does n rip easily2 & "o c /it* on ei!r ! "r or wrong side ( a g>m5t4 ,on ! s+le-?read ma*9e1 "o mu/ /it* on ! "r side always4 ,let u look at a ma*9e be=e le>n+ to op]ate x4 ,:at p>ts d y f9d bel[ ! table8 ,:at use is ! connect+ rod8 ,:at does x connect8 ,wat* h[ y\r tea*] puts h] feet on ! treadle4 ,:at makes ! :eel above ! table turn ar\nd8 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,new ,home ,sew+ ,ma*9e ,co4 ,,fig4 #ec4--;,d\ble-?read ma*9e4 ,y %\ld practice runn+ ! ma*9e fir/ )\t any ?read s z to le>n to use ! treadle well1 & !n ) pap] to see if y are hold+ x /raight & mak+ r[s ( pricks :i* are /raight & ev54 ,if "o _c make r[s ( ev5 pricks1 x means ! sew+ w be crook$ & mu/ be ripp$4 ,"s ( ! ,pleasant ,valley girls practic$ 9 ?is way at home4 ,:at d y f9d besides ! :eel above ! table8 ,! %aft has _m p>ts4 ,c y "n "s8 ,yes1 ! spool hold]1 :i* holds ! spool2 ! ne$le b>1 :i* holds ! ne$le & moves up & d[n2 ! foot1 :i* is call$ ! press] foot & c be rais$ or l[]$ by ! little h&le2 ! ne$le plate1 ?r\gh :i* ! ne$le works2 ! fe$1 :i* is l little r\gh tee? ( a comb & helps to pu% ! clo? along z "o /it*es4 ,! little atta*m5t ne> ! :eel is = w9d+ bobb9s = ! %uttle4 ,! %uttle lies 9 ! %uttle race "u ! plate4 ,suppose we move ! plate & take x out4 ,see1 ! bobb9 is 9 ! %uttle4 ,?is is ! second ?read4 ,h[ d y regulate ! ma*9e8 ,jane ask$ ,miss ,james ab\t ! screws4 ,!re are usually two l>ge ones on ! d\ble-?read ma*9es :i* are important4 ,"o screw is to make ! /it* l>g] or small]2 we say1 to regulate x4 ,miss ,james %[$ ! girls h[ to d ?is4 ,! second screw is to regulate ! tightness ( ! ?read4 ,x is call$ a t5sion4 ,press y\r ?umb & fir/ f+] tightly toge!r & pass a ?read betwe5 !m4 ,:5 y d n press v h>d1 ! ?read passes easily4 ,:5 y press h>d1 x is difficult to draw ! ?read ?r\gh1 & ! ?read may break4 ,h y tri$8 ,! t5sion is regulat$ by a screw :i* presses two little plates toge!r4 ,! ?read passes betwe5 ! plates4 ,:5 !y are loose l y\r f+]s1 ! ?read passes easily2 :5 tight1 x breaks4 ,s1 9 ?read+ a ma*9e1 we mu/ le>n :]e ! t5sion plates are1 9 ord] to pass ! ?read betwe5 !m1 & h[ ! screw is turn$ to make ! plates tight or loose4 ,y\r tea*] w %[ y h[ to turn ! screws4 ,to-day1 :ile "s girls are f9i%+ ! ba/+1 o!rs may try to run ! ma*9e1 9 turn4 ,?is is :at y are to d3 #a4 ,f9d all ! p>ts ^: names h be5 put on ! blackbo>d1 above table & bel[ table4 #b4 ,le>n to treadle ev5ly4 #c4 ,le>n to raise & l[] ! press] foot on a piece ( br[n pap]1 & to /it* )\t ?read4 ,keep ! r[s ( pricks v ev54 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,/udy y\r ma*9e4 ,f9d all ! p>ts above ! table2 bel[ ! table4 #b4 ,:at is ! purpose ( a t5sion8 ,%[ h[ x op]ates4 #c4 ,le>n to /it*1 )\t a ?read1 ev5 r[s ( pricks on br[n pap]4 #d4 ,see h[ mu* y c tell "m ab\t ! ma*9e1 :5 y g home4 ,,lesson #g ,,practice ,,9 ,,?read+ ,,& ,,runn+ ,,! ,,ma*9e ,let u le>n to ?read ! d\ble ?read ma*9e & practice /it*+4 ,?is requires mu* c>e1 b is n difficult4 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls enjoy$ ?is lesson v mu*4 ,z we le>n$1 !re are _m diff]5t makes ( sew+ ma*9es4 ,all are bas$ on ! pr9ciples ( ! "o inv5t$ by ,mr4 ,h[e4 ,if we "k ! important po9ts to rememb] 9 ?read+ a ma*9e1 x w be v easy to foll[ ! book ( directions :i* comes ) ! ma*9e4 ,! names ( "s ma*9es are ! ,new ,home1 ,dome/ic1 ,s+]1 ,wilcox & ,gibbs4 ,"h are ! ?+s to ?9k ab\t 9 ?read+3 #a4 ,f9d ! spool hold]1 & put ! spool on x4 #b4 ,f9d all ! little eyes & holes ?r\gh :i* ! ?read mu/ pass4 ,! book ( directions w help4 #c4 ,f9d ! t5sion4 ,be sure ! ?read passes betwe5 ! t5sion plates & pulls ev5ly4 #d4 ,f9d ! ne$le1 & ?read x f left to "r1 t[>ds ! :eel4 #e4 ,f9d ! %uttle4 ,look at y\r book ( directions4 ,miss ,james help$ ,b>b>a to put ! bobb9 9 its place1 & to ?read x into ! %uttle4 ,ask y\r tea*] to help y if y d n "k h[4 #f4 ,put ! %uttle back 9 ! %uttle hold]4 #g4 ,turn ! :eel & hold ! upp] ?read4 ,?is w br+ ! "u ?read up ?r\gh ! little hole 9 ! ne$le plate4 ,bo? ?reads %\ld be on top be=e beg9n+ to /it*4 ,n[ y are ready to beg9 to practice /it*+ ) a ?read4 ,try to rememb] ^! ?+s1 :ile /it*+ ) a ?read3 #a4 ,to treadle ev5ly4 #b4 ,to hold ! mat]ial on ! table at ! left h& & to pass x on lightly4 ,d n pull x or pu% x ) y\r left h&4 #c4 ,to turn corn]s ev5ly4 ,h ! ne$le d[n 9 clo?4 ,raise ! press] foot & turn ! "w4 ,put ! foot d[n & cont9ue4 #d4 ,be sure to turn ! :eel 9 ! prop] direction1 or ! ?read w break4 #e4 ,practice /it*+ p>allel r[s4 ,make good squ>e corn]s4 ,use "s scraps ( clo? = ?is sew+1 & practice at home4 ,^? :o h n practic$ on ! ma*9e may d s dur+ /udy p]iods1 if !re is "t4 ,we c move ! ma*9e into ! coat room4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,b>b>a ,oakes does n turn good squ>e corn]s on h] practice piece4 ,:y8 #b4 ,m>jorie says h] ?read breaks e "t %e />ts4 ,:y8 #c4 ,%[ "s "o h[ y c br+ ! "u ?read up ?r\gh ! ne$le plate1 prep>atory to /it*+4 #d4 ,practice ?read+ ! ma*9e1 foll[+ book directions if y d n "k h[4 #e4 ,practice r[s ( good /raight /it*+4 ,,lesson #h ,,! ,,fr5* ,,seam ,,& ,,its ,,use ,:at k9d ( seams %all we make on our nightdresses8 ,h[ %all we f9i% ! bottom8 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls did mo/ ( ?is at s*ool 9 "o lesson1 b f9i%$ at home4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ed4--,! ,fr5* seam4 ,fir/ sew+ ne> raw edges4 ,mak+ ,fr5* seams on ! nightdress4 ,we h le>n$ t our di% t[els _h to be hemm$ because ( ! ravel+ ( mat]ial4 ,any?+ :i* is to be wa%$ a great deal mu/ h its raw edges f9i%$ 9 su* a way t !y w n ravel4 ,z nightdresses are wa%$ (t51 we mu/ make our seams s t ! edges w n pull out4 ,:o c "n o!r g>m5ts :i* are wa%$ (t58 ,:o c tell :at we c d to prev5t edges f fray+8 ,yes1 we might make small /it*es1 call$ ov]ca/+1 on ! edge ( a pla9 seam4 ,!re is ano!r way1 :i* we %all le>n to-day4 ,x is call$ a ,fr5* seam4 ,! ,fr5* seam is sew$ twice4 ,! seam is ba/$ z y h done1 on ! "r side ( ! g>m5t2 seams are usually ba/$ on ! wrong side4 ,!n1 ! seam is sew$ close to ! ba/+ /it*es4 ,we %all sew ours by ma*9e4 ,! ,fr5* seam is us$ on "s g>m5ts made by h&4 ,! fir/ sew+ 7,fig4 #ed71 !n1 is a t9y r[ ( runn+ /it*es1 close to ! ba/+4 ,aft] ! fir/ sew+1 ! ba/+ %\ld be remov$ & ! edges trimm$ to a -in* seam4 ,?is mu/ be done c>efully4 ,!n1 turn ! g>m5t to ! wrong side4 ,press & p9* ! seams ev5ly s t ! sew+ ( ! seam is exactly on top ( ! fold z y p9* x4 ,next1 ba/e aga9 -in* f edge1 & sew ! second "t1 by ma*9e4 ,?is seam is (t5 us$ on da9ty h&made und]we>4 ,!n1 ! second sew+ is two runs & a back /it*1 l t y us$ on y\r aprons1 & is made by h&4 ,:at mu/ we be c>eful ab\t1 !n1 9 mak+ ! ,fr5* seams on our nightdresses8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ee4--,! ,fr5* seam4 ,second sew+4 ,mak+ ! hem ( ! nightdress4 ,h[ mu* 0 all[$ = ! hems at ! bottom ( ! nightdresses8 ,ev]ybody kn[s h[ to turn a hem4 ,! fir/ turn+ is -in*2 & ! wide turn+1 #c in*es4 ,all use y\r gauges or tape measures2 & turn & p9 & ba/e c>efully be=e /it*+4 ,:o c tell :y ! t9y plaits are necess>y at ! hem turn+8 ,:]e %all we lay !m8 ,yes1 at ! seams & betwe51 if necess>y4 ,n[ y w h pl5ty to d to f9i% seams & hem4 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls1 aft] ?is lesson1 f9i%$ !irs at home4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,%[ on a practice piece h[ a ,fr5* seam is made3 a4 ,by h&4 b4 ,by ma*9e4 #b4 ,"n "s g>m5ts or articles on :i* ! ,fr5* seam might be us$4 ,:y8 #c4 ,:at are ! important ?+s to rememb] 9 turn+ ! hems at ! bottom ( ! nightdresses8 ,,lesson #i ,,protection ,,= ,,! ,,body ,,at ,,night ,d y "k t clo!s help to keep u well8 ,mollie ,/>k wi%es to "k :at k9d ( clo?+ %\ld be worn at night4 ,:at %\ld be done ab\t clo?+ at night8 ,we h le>n$ t1 9 ord] to keep well1 we mu/ ?9k ab\t ! "r k9d ( clo?+ z well z food4 ,gr[n p sometimes =get ab\t ?is2 & gr[+ girls & boys1 too4 ,! body mu/ be kept clean2 & clo?+ worn next to x %\ld also be kept clean at night z well z dur+ ! day4 ,:o c rememb] h[ _m p9ts ( wat] ! normal body gives (f ea* day8 ,x loses ab\t ?ree p9ts 9 #bd h\rs4 ,c y recall :at becomes ( ?is wa/e8 ,yes1 "s is evaporat$1 b "s is collect$ by our clo!s2 t is :y !y are soil$ z !y collect ! p]spiration & excretions1 al?\gh (t5 !y d n look soil$4 ,! day g>m5ts %\ld be hung up at night 9 a place :]e !y w air & dry out by morn+4 ,!y %\ld n be %ut up 9 a closet4 ,diff]5t clo?+ %\ld be worn at night4 ,a musl9 nightdress1 l ^? y are mak+1 is usually suitable = six or sev5 mon?s ( ! ye>2 b "s ( u :o live 9 ! c\ntry or 9 h\ses n well heat$ require w>m] clo?+ at night4 ,old p & babies1 z well z sick p1 require m clo?+ because !y are n able to resi/ ! cold z easily4 ,d y recall :y8 ,:at is ! normal human body temp]ature8 ,:y is ! human body call$ a ma*9e8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ef4--,! clo?+ worn dur+ ! day %\ld be air$ at night4 ,if our day clo?+ collects wa/e & %\ld be air$ at night1 :at %\ld be done ) ! night clo?+ dur+ ! day8 ,yes1 x %\ld be well air$4 ,h y ev] notic$ h[ ! air ( a room is spoil$ by ! odor ( night clo?+ & ( b$ cov]+s :i* h n be5 prop]ly air$8 ,"s p roll up ! nightdress & put x "u ! pill[4 ,t nightdress w n smell sweet & clean at night4 ,clean clo?+ is absolutely necess>y 9 ord] to keep well4 ,we %all "s day le>n h[ to cleanse clo?+ prop]ly1 by wa%+4 ,clo?+ worn next to ! body %\ld be *ang$ once a week at lea/1 & twice or ?ree times if possible4 ,:5 "o works v h>d & ! body s5ds (f m wa/e1 clo?+ %\ld be *ang$ m (t54 ,! body :i* is to we> ! clean clo?+ %\ld be wa%$ e day4 ,x may n be possible to take a tub ba? or a swim 9 ! riv] or lake1 b "o c ba! all ov] ) a bucket ( wat] & a clo? & soap4 ,x pays1 = "o feels s fre%2 &1 !n1 ! wa/e ( ! body is remov$ by ! wa%+1 & ! pores ( ! sk9 are kept 9 good condition4 ,:5 our sk9 is 9 good condition1 we d n feel ! cold z mu* z d ^? :o d n ba! frequ5tly4 ,d y rememb] t we said our clo?+ mu/ help to save "s ( ! body heat8 ,t is h[ clo?+ protects4 ,:y mu/ "s heat be sav$8 ,we also le>n$ t :5 our body works v h>d mu* heat is creat$4 ,:]e does x g8 ,x is n all sav$4 ,:y8 ,our clo?+ helps to prev5t ! heat ( ! body f escap+ too rapidly4 ,we %\ld plan to we> light clo?+ 9 summ] & heavi] 9 w9t]1 or to adapt our clo?+ to ! wea!r4 ,?is is only good s5se4 ,9 summ] we h cool days1 & 9 w9t] w>m ones4 ,p ^: habits ( liv+ keep !m indoors a great deal %\ld be clo!d lightly = a w>m h\se &1 :5 go+ out1 %\ld protect !mselves ) extra clo?+4 ,! boy or girl :o walks to s*ool rapidly does n require z mu* clo?+ z "o :o rides4 ,c y tell :y8 ,h y he>d t sev]al lay]s ( ?9 clo?+ are w>m] ?an "o ?ick lay]8 ,frank ,all5 says he kn[s :y4 ,yes1 because ( ! lay]s ( air betwe5 ! ?icknesses ( clo?+4 ,/ill air does n c>ry ! heat away1 s we feel w>m] ) sev]al lay]s ( /ill air4 ,clo?+ helps to keep ! lay]s ( air f conduct+ ! heat away too rapidly4 ,por\s clo?+ is always bett] because air c pass ?r\gh & c be collect$ 9 ! me%es4 ,loose wool mat]ial is w>m because x holds ! air betwe5 ! spaces made by ! woolly fib]s4 ,"s day we %all /udy ! wool fib] z we h ! cotton1 & f9d out :y x collects air & :y wool5 clo!s %r9k4 ,d y ?9k y und]/& :y clo!s %\ld be *ang$ at night8 ,c y tell y\r big bro!r at home :y8 ,mollie ,/>k & ,jane ,smi? told ab\t ?is "p ( ! /ory :5 !y w5t home f s*ool4 ,mrs4 ,/>k _h invit$ "s fri5ds 9 = tea4 ,all enjoy$ he>+ ,mollie's /ory4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,:y is x important to *ange "o's clo?+ weekly8 #b4 ,:at c>e %\ld be tak5 ( ! clo?+ worn at night8 ,:y8 #c4 ,h[ d clo!s help to keep u well8 ,tell "m or fa!r h[4 #d4 ,look 9 y\r tea*]'s book on physiology4 ,:at does x say ab\t body temp]ature2 ab\t cleanl9ess ( ! sk98 #e4 ,write ! /ory ( :at y ?9k ,mollie & ,jane told ab\t ?is subject at ,mrs4 ,/>k's tea p>ty4 ,,lesson #aj ,,laces ,,& ,,_! ,,use ,we mu/ f9i% ! sleeves ( our nightdresses1 & also ! neck4 ,%all we use "s lace8 ,d y "k t !re are _m k9ds ( lace8 ,h[ %all we sew x to ! g[n8 ,imitation ,cluny ins]tion 4#ab ,imitation ,cluny edg+ 4#ae ,real ,cluny ins]tion 4#be ,real ,cluny edg+ 4#ah ,g]man ,val ins]tion 4#ji ,g]man ,val edg+ 4#ji ,fr5* ,val ins]tion 4#ac ,fr5* ,val edg+ 4#ac ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eg4--,! names & retail prices ( a few good laces = und]we>4 ,cotton bead+ 4#jc ,l95 ma*9e-made bead+ 4#jd ,l95 bead+ 4#jf ,real tor*on ins]tion 4#bd ,real tor*on edg+ 4#af ,ma*9e-made tor*on ins]tion 4#jg ,ma*9e-made tor*on edge 4#aj ,iri% cro*et ins]tion 4#he ,iri% cro*et edg+ #a4aj ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eh4 ,d y "k t !re are _m k9ds ( lace8 ,! day ,m>jorie ,all5 took ! girls to visit h] gr&mo!r1 !y saw _m ?+s 9 ! attic4 ,gr&mo!r ,all5 also %[$ !m "s old lace & und]g>m5ts :i* 7 decorat$ ) lovely embroid]y4 ,x 0 all done mo/ ev5ly ) lovely fl[]s & scallop$ edges1 & all 9 :ite cotton embroid]y ?read4 ,!re 7 "s da9ty old laces1 too4 ,! girls le>n$ ! names ( "s ( !m4 ,! ,sew+ ,league s5t = sev]al samples ( mod]n laces ( ! same names4 ,!re 7 cluny laces l ^! 9 ! sample box4 ,cluny lace is (t5 q heavy & is us$ on heavy mat]ials4 ,! light] cluny laces are m suitable = und]we>4 ,! cluny laces are h& or ma*9e made4 ,:i* d y ?9k are m exp5sive8 ,h y ev] se5 any "o make lace by h&8 ,x is sometimes done on a lace pill[ ) p9s to outl9e ! patt]n4 ,! little bobb9s ( ?read are ?r[n ar\nd ! p9s4 ,c y get f ! picture 7,fig4 #ei7 an idea ( h[ x is done8 ,tor*on lace is also us$1 b is n q s heavy z cluny4 ,x is ei!r h& or ma*9e made4 ,bo? ( ^! are l95 laces1 b sometimes are imitat$ 9 cotton4 ,!y are n s pretty :5 made ( cotton4 ,x is bett] ta/e to buy ( good lace ! am\nt "o c af=d ?an to buy a *eap imitation4 ,if "o c only pay = a cotton lace1 !n *oose a cotton k9d1 su* z ! laces call$ val5ci5nes4 ,! girls s5t = ,fr5* val5ci5nes & also = ,g]man ,val4 lace edg+ & ins]tion4 ,:at is ! diff]5ce betwe5 an edg+ & an ins]tion8 ,! ,g]man val5ci5nes laces are some:at co>s]4 ,!re are also "s samples ( ,iri% cro*et lace4 ,! real ,iri% h&made cro*et is done ) a cro*et hook1 by h&4 ,! imitations are made by ma*9]y4 ,m>jorie's gr&mo!r has "s real ,iri% cro*et & "s real old val5ci5nes lace4 ,x is h&made & mu/ h co/ a great deal ( money4 ,9 gr&mo!r's day ma*9es _h n be5 inv5t$ = mak+ lace4 ,let u look at ! samples :i* ,miss ,james has4 ,! pictures 7,figs4 #eg & #eh7 %[ "s ( ^? us$ by ! ,pleasant ,valley girls4 ,:i* w\ld y l on y\r g[n8 ,! ,g]man val5ci5nes we>s well & is n exp5sive4 ,! ma*9e-made l95 cluny or tor*on lace is attractive1 suitable1 & x we>s well4 ,:y d y ?9k a f9e ,fr5* val5ci5nes lace does n look well on ?ick musl9 und]we>8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ei4--,lace be+ made by h& on pill[s ) t9y bobb9s ( ?read4 ,besides us+ lace1 :at are "s o!r ways ( f9i%+ a g>m5t8 ,we %all s5d = our laces & also le>n ano!r way to f9i% neck & sleeves1 :i* w co/ less4 ,we c use bias b&s ( lawn to f9i% ! r\gh edges4 ,cut !m #b-;in*es wide 7see page #be71 & !y w be ab\t "o in* f9i%$4 ,! fea!r /it* add$ w make a pretty decoration4 ,scallop+ is easy4 ,! g[ns might be f9i%$ ) ! h& scallop ar\nd neck & sleeves1 if "o has ! "t4 ,we %all le>n h[ to sew on ! lace ins]tion or edg+4 ,! girls :o use lace may decide to h only ! edg+4 ,if ins]tion or bead+ is us$1 too1 x is sew$ on fir/4 ,:ile we are wait+ = ! lace to come1 we c prep>e ! edges ( ! neck & sleeves4 ,if we use a ,fr5* fell1 ! sew+ w n %[ on ! "r side at all :5 ! lace is entirely 9 place2 besides1 only "o sew+ is necess>y = ! hem & lace4 ,?is is h[ x is done3 #a4 ,turn to ! "r side ( ! g>m5t at bo? neck & sleeve edges1 a hem ( -in*4 ,! fir/ turn+ mu/1 also1 be -in*4 ,ba/e v c>efully ) small /it*es4 #b4 ,turn ^! hems backw>d to wrong side & crease s t ! edge ( ! turn$ hem is exactly at ! f9i%$ edge ( ! g>m5t4 ,?is is :]e ! lace is to be sew$4 ,we %all le>n h[ to sew on ! lace next lesson4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,br+ to s*ool all ! samples ( lace y c f9d at home4 ,) y\r tea*]'s help comp>e & discuss _! uses4 ,m\nt ! be/ samples = an exhibit4 #b4 ,ask y\r family & fri5ds to %[ y any old pieces ( lace !y may h4 #c4 ,consult ! encyclop$ia or o!r books1 & see if y c le>n m ab\t h[ lace is made4 ,!re are sev]al good books all ab\t lace4 ,,lesson #aa ,,trimm+ ,,! ,,nightdress ,a new way to sew on lace by h&1 & an inexp5sive way to trim ! nightdress4 ,did y f9d x v difficult to turn ! n>r[ hem ar\nd ! neck ( y\r nightdress8 ,jane ,smi? almo/ cri$2 b ,miss ,james help$ h] a little4 ,x is always m difficult to turn a hem on a curv$ edge ?an on a /raight edge4 ,if ! turns h bo? be5 made ! same wid? & if ! ba/+ /it*es are small1 !re w be no difficulty4 ,aft] ! hems h be5 turn$ backw>ds & creas$ to ! wrong side1 we are ready to sew on ! ins]tion4 ,hold ! ins]tion /raight ) ! "r side to ! "r side ( ! g[n1 & ) ! edge ( ! ins]tion to ! edges ( ! creas$ hem4 ,n[ great c>e mu/ be tak54 ,! ov]h&+ /it* is to be us$4 ,y le>n$ ?is /it* on ! bean bags 7page #bh74 ,9 tak+ ! /it* be v c>eful to put ! ne$le ?r\gh ! edge ( ! hem1 ! creas$ edge1 & ! lace4 ,! sew+ w n be neat unless all ^! edges are caught by ?is sew+4 ,?is is important4 ,if "o wi%es1 x is possible to use only ! lace edg+ )\t ! ins]tion4 ,sew x to ! g[n 9 ! same way "o w\ld sew x to ! ins]tion4 ,t[>ds ! work] hold ! lace j a little full4 ,sometimes "o c pull ! ?read at ! edge ( ! lace & use x z a ga!r+ ?read2 b1 z n mu* fullness is requir$1 x is v satisfactory to hold ! lace a little full ) ! ?umb z "o sews4 ,small ov]h&+ /it*es w hold ! fullness z x is di/ribut$ ev5ly4 ,! "r side ( ! lace is plac$ t[>ds ! "r side ( ! ins]tion s t ! two edges ( lace & ins]tion are ov]h&$ toge!r4 ,sometimes1 if ! neck ( a g[n is too big & "o wi%es to make x small]1 tucks c be put 9 gr\ps at ! c5t] front or back1 9 numb] accord+ to ! am\nt to be tak5 up4 ,9 calculat+ = tucks1 "o mu/ rememb] t ! tuck takes up twice ! am\nt ( mat]ial z ! wid? ( tuck desir$1 & cov]s its own wid? 9 ly+ flat4 ,if tucks are us$ to make ! neck size small]1 x w be f\nd m satisfactory to put a n>r[ fac+ ar\nd ! neck be=e trimm+4 ,to seam ! ends ( lace1 make a pla9 seam on ! wrong side4 ,lay x flat1 turn "u ! two edges toge!r1 & hem 9 a n>r[ hem4 ,a pretty way to f9i% ! edges ( neck & sleeves is ) bias b&s4 ,cut /rips z = ! pot hold] 7see page #be74 ,:ite1 p9k1 or blue lawn may be us$ = contra/4 ,cut ! b&s #b-;in*es wide4 ,!y w look "o in* wide f9i%$4 ,place on ! "r side1 "r ( lawn to "r ( g[n4 ,make -in* seam & /it*4 ,turn to wrong side4 ,turn "u -in* & hem to wrong side4 ,ano!r way to f9i% is to ba/e ! b& & decorate x ) ! fea!r/it* to hold ! turn+4 ,?is /it* is a pretty decoration 7see page #abj74 ,x is plac$ on ! "r side & at ! bottom ( ! b&4 ,x %\ld be made ) :ite cotton embroid]y ?read2 #be ,d4,m4,c4 cotton is v good = su* f9i%+s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fj4--,nightdress ) sleeves set 91 & sleeves & neck f9i%$ ) bias b&s4 ,! neckb& w ne$ a tape or a ribbon to hold ! fullness ( ! b& close to ! neck4 ,! b9d+ %\ld be />t$ & f9i%$ at ! front1 & ! ends ( b9d+ %\ld be turn$ 9 7,fig4 #fj74 ,?is w leave an op5+ :]e ! ribbon c be run 94 ,?is is a satisfactory f9i% & is n exp5sive4 ,! lawn is #ab or #ae c5ts a y>d2 & -y>d w cut en\gh b&s = sev]al girls' g[ns4 ,! ,d4,m4,c4 cotton w co/ only two c5ts a ske94 ,s5d = ^! 9 "t4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,c y sugge/ any o!r f9i% = ! nightdress8 #b4 ,if y %\ld wi% to add #c tucks ea* -in* wide at ! bottom ( y\r g[n & ) -in* space betwe5 !m1 h[ _m extra in*es 9 l5g? w\ld y h to add to y\r g[n l5g?8 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls work$ ?is out 9 _! ari?metic class4 ,,lesson #ab ,,*oos+ ,a ,,patt]n ,,& ,,mat]ial ,,= ,a ,,:ite ,,petticoat ,d y ?9k y c s5d = ! cotton mat]ial & = a patt]n = a petticoat8 ,:at k9d ( clo? w y use8 ,p]haps y w\ld pref] to make a slip in/ead ( a skirt4 ,:o c rememb] ! names ( ! be/ cotton mat]ials = und]we>8 ,:at %all we *oose = our petticoats or slips8 ,look at ! patt]n book & *oose a simple petticoat4 ,we %all le>n to make "o ) a ruffle4 ,x is v useful 9 summ] to we> "u ?9 dresses1 al?\gh "s girls may pref] to make a slip :i* comb9es petticoat & wai/4 ,:at sizes %all we ord]8 ,h[ mu* clo? w be requir$8 ,we %all ne$ ?ree l5g?s ( clo? = ! skirt4 ,let u take our l5g? measures = ! skirt1 all[+ f\r in*es extra = hem & f9i%+4 ,^? :o wi% to make ruffles ( ! mat]ial w ne$ "o y>d extra ( same clo? or ( lawn4 ,:i* w be less exp5sive1 a ruffle ( ,hamburg embroid]y edg+ or a ruffle ( lawn decorat$ ) a fancy /it*8 ,:i* w take long] to prep>e8 ,! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley ,s*ool decide on a patt]n ) five gores4 ,:at does t mean8 ,w\ld y pref] "s o!r8 ,:y is ! five-gor$ patt]n a good "o = ! petticoat8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fa4--;,a simple petticoat4 ,! girls *oose cambric = _! petticoats4 ,"s decide to buy ! lawn & to make ! ruffle ) a simple decoration4 ,9 calculat+ = ! ruffle1 all[ #a times ! wid? ( ! skirt4 ,?is is full en\gh4 ,! dep? ( ! ruffle is accord+ to desire4 ,x may be f #e to #aj in*es deep4 ,cut x across ! w>p4 ,c y tell :y8 ,o!rs may decide to make a simple ruffle ( ! same mat]ial ) a decorat$ hem2 a few may use ! ,hamburg ruffle4 ,:i* ruffle w y decide to use = y\r skirt or ! bottom ( y\r slip8 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,calculate h[ mu* mat]ial y w ne$ = y\r petticoat )\t ! ruffle4 #b4 ,calculate ! am\nt = ! ruffle4 #c4 ,h[ w ! patt]ns help y to make ^! calculations8 ,,lesson #ac ,,le>n+ ,,to ,,make ,,! ,,petticoat ,! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley h _h s mu* practice t ! petticoat w n be a difficult task4 ,d y ?9k y w f9d x easy too8 ,mollie ,/>k is delight$ to make ! petticoat1 = %e ne$s "o to we> "u ! new dott$ ,swiss dress t "m made = h] bir?day4 ,%e saw 9 ! ,pleasant ,valley ,news t !re w be an unusual sale ( ,hamburg edg+s2 & %e ?9ks %e w g to t[n & see if x is some?+ %e c use4 ,miss ,james told ! girls t ,hamburg edg+ :i* is full ( holes & 9 :i* ! patt]n is poor & poorly embroid]$1 is n wor? buy+4 ,! edge is usually v weak & pulls out aft] "o or two wa%+s4 ,! ,hamburg edg+ call$ bl9d embroid]y has no holes & is likely to be firm]4 ,let u /udy briefly h[ ! petticoats are to be made3 #a4 ,cut out4 ,foll[ patt]n1 plac+ economically4 ,all[ extra = hem1 if necess>y1 & "o in* = receiv+ tuck "u :i* ! ruffle w be plac$4 ,fold pieces left ov]2 !y w be ne$$4 #b4 ,p9 & ba/e gores4 ,be c>eful to mat* not*es--front1 !n side gore at ea* side1 !n back gore at ea* side ( side gore1 five 9 all4 ,p9 f top d[n4 ,ba/e f bottom up ) bias edge t[>ds work]4 ,hold+ ?us prev5ts /ret*+4 #c4 ,make ,fr5* seams by ma*9e4 #d4 ,make hem on bottom4 ,ba/e a two or ?ree in* hem z plann$4 ,/it*4 ,sometimes du/ ruffles ( ! same clo? or ( lawn are plac$ on ! bottom ( ! skirt in/ead ( a hem4 ,!y are made ab\t #c or #d in*es wide & cut across w>p ( clo?4 ,! skirt is !n cut #c or #d in*es %ort]1 & ! ruffle makes ! l5g? by be+ add$ at bottom "u a tuck -in* wide4 ,?is ruffle has -in* hem on ! bottom edge & is sew$ to skirt ) a seam on ! "r side4 ,! tuck is made directly above x & is /it*$ flat to cov] ! raw edges4 ,a hem at ! bottom is en\gh1 & is suitable = "y girls1 :5 a ruffle is to be add$ above = decoration & fullness4 #e4 ,prep>e tuck on skirt = ruffle4 ,measure f bottom ( skirt dep? ( ruffle4 ,at t po9t make a tuck -in* deep4 ,ba/e & /it*4 ,?is mu/ be same di/ance f ! bottom ( skirt all ! way ar\nd1 & on ! "r side ( skirt4 ,x is n always necess>y to use a tuck4 ,a bias b& c be us$ in/ead or a bead+ to cov] ! raw edges ( ! ruffle4 #f4 ,prep>e ruffle4 ,?is may be ( lawn ) edge hemm$ & decorat$ ) fea!r/it*1 or x may be ( ,hamburg edg+ or ( same mat]ial ) scallop$ edge 7see page #adb74 ,a ruffle ( ! same mat]ial ) a simple -in* hem may also be us$4 ,! wid? ( ruffle is half z full aga9 z ! wid? ( skirt4 ,! dep? c be #e-aj in*es z desir$4 ,divide ruffle 9 qu>t]s1 & ga!r4 #g4 ,to jo9 ruffle to skirt4 ,divide skirt 9 qu>t]s4 ,p9 qu>t]$ ruffle 9 place4 ,draw up ga!r+ ?reads to fit skirt4 ,w9d ?read ar\nd p9s to hold4 ,ba/e4 ,if a receiv+ tuck has be5 made1 turn x d[n ov] ! raw edge ( ruffle & ba/e & /it* on v edge ( tuck4 ,if a tuck has n be5 made1 ba/e ov] ! raw edges ( ruffle a b& ( f9i%+ braid or bead+ or a bias /rip ( ! same clo? z ! skirt1 -in* wide2 /it* on bo? edges4 #h4 ,to make placket4 ,use /raight /rip #b in*es wide4 ,/>t at wai/ l9e1 "r ( /rip to "r ( skirt4 ,sew all ar\nd placket op5+4 ,/it*4 ,turn to wrong side4 ,hem d[n by h&4 ,lap at bottom ( op5+ s x lies flat4 ,back/it* across ! bottom ) a slant+ l9e ( /it*es4 ,?is makes a flat back ) no fullness & is call$ a b\nd placket4 #i4 ,to f9i% top ( skirt4 ,cut bias /rip ( clo? ab\t "o in* wide2 sew to "r side4 ,turn ov] to wrong side ev5 ) top2 turn s z to be -in* wide f9i%$2 /it* on edge1 flat4 ,lap skirt 9 back ) ?ree buttonholes1 "o at wai/ & two bel[ 9 placket lap4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,calculate h[ mu* ruffl+ ( ,hamburg edg+ w be ne$$ = a skirt #b-y>ds ar\nd4 #b4 ,get samples ( embroid]y & p9 to ! ,bullet9 ,bo>d1 :]e all ! girls may see !m4 #c4 ,practice mak+ a receiv+ tuck4 #d4 ,see if y c plan a section ( a du/ ruffle = a petticoat4 ,make ! skirt "p ( br[n pap] ) tissue = ! ruffle4 ,,lesson #ad ,,h[ ,,to ,,make ,a ,,corset ,,cov] ,! new problem ( corset cov] is n difficult1 if "o has le>n$ all ! prec$+ lessons4 ,let u /udy h[ to trim ?is g>m5t or ! wai/ ( a slip4 ,"s ( ! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley w make comb9ations ( corset cov] & skirt1 & o!rs ! corset cov] 7,fig4 #fb74 ,!y decide to use na9sook & to trim !m ) ,g]man val5ci5nes lace4 ,ab\t #a-y>ds ( clo? are necess>y4 ,!y h s5t = a simple patt]n & w make !m p>tly by h&4 ,miss ,james gave !m ! foll[+ directions3 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fb4--;,a simple corset cov]4 #a4 ,to cut4 ,place patt]n economically4 ,p9 & cut4 #b4 ,ba/e4 ,p9 & ba/e und]>m seams & %\ld]s4 ,sew ,fr5* seams by ma*9e4 #c4 ,make front laps4 ,on left side make hem -in* wide turn$ to wrong side4 ,on "r front make hem turn$ to "r side -in* wide4 ,/it* ?is -in* f ea* edge to =m front lap4 ,x c\ld be run by h& if all h&made or fea!r/it*$ ) t9y /it*es4 ,?is lap is = ! buttonholes1 :i* are made v]tically1 ?ree or f\r 9 ! lap4 ,if x is desir$ to conceal ! buttons1 make an extra /rip = buttonholes & /it* "u ! "r front lap ) ! /it*+ ( hem4 #d4 ,f9i% bottom4 ,ev5 ! bottom1 & make z a f9i% a n>r[ hem -in* wide4 #e4 ,ga!r at wai/ l9e4 ,9 c5t] fronts & 9 middle ( c5t] back1 ga!r at ! wai/ l9e to fit figure4 ,ba/e on inside ( wai/ ov] ^! adju/$ ga!rs a /raight b& -in* wide1 ) edges turn$4 ,ba/e & /it* ?is top & bottom to hold ga!rs4 ,wai/ l9e c1 also1 be f9i%$1 if desir$1 on "r side ) bead+ or ) a b&4 #f4 ,to f9i% top ( cov] & sleeves4 ,make ! same f9i% z = kimono night dress4 ,?is is neat & attractive4 ,! top ( ! corset cov] c be ga!r$ to fit ! figure1 or t9y h& or ma*9e tucks ( -in* 9 wid? may be run ab\t ?ree in*es deep ea* side ( ! front laps1 five or six t9y ones be+ made on ea* side1 accord+ to ! am\nt ( fullness to be tak5 94 ,! top c be f9i%$ ) a ,hamburg bead+ = ribbon1 sew$ on ) a ,fr5* seam2 & !n lace may be ov]h&$ on ! edge ( x4 ,! f9i% ( ! sleeves %\ld correspond to ! neck f9i%4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems ,calculate h[ mu* bead+ & lace or lace alone w be necess>y to trim a corset cov]4 ,draw sket* ( h[ x is to be decorat$4 ,,review ,,problems ,i4 ,practice sew+ on ! ma*9e at home4 ,le>n to turn good squ>e corn]s & to /it* /raight4 ,,ii4 ,plan to make a slip or "s extra g>m5t at home1 us+ ! pr9ciples & k ga9$ at s*ool1 9 sew+ seams1 trimm+ & mak+4 ,,iii4 ,9 :at ways are y plann+ to protect y\r body at night8 ,h[ d y v5tilate y\r room8 ,h[ air y\r clo!s8 ,illu/ration ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,le>n+ ,,to ,,make ,,"s ,,attractive ,,gifts ,,= ,,*ri/mas ,,or ,,= ,a ,,bir?day ,,pres5t ,p]haps y w\ld l to surprise "m or fa!r at ,*ri/mas "t or to make a bir?day gift = gr&mo!r or auntie4 ,all ! ,pleasant ,valley ,s*ool girls h made plans = ,*ri/mas4 ,mak+ gifts is n difficult1 if "o gives ?\ght & "t1 & ne$ n be a great exp5se1 if "o is c>eful to use scraps ( clo?4 ,look 9 ! attic or 9 ! piece bag to see if !re are any scraps ( silk4 ,if y are mak+ a gift = "m1 ,i am sure gr&mo!r w help y to f9d some?+4 ,giv+ is mu* fun :5 "o c make ! gift a surprise4 ,gr&mo!r ,all5 & ,gr&mo!r ,/>k are help+ ! ,pleasant ,valley girls ) _! surprises4 ,x is n ! co/ ( a gift :i* c\nts1 b ! lov+ ?\ght :i* "o puts into x4 ,a surprise bir?day pudd+ or cake1 a surprise apron or "w bag1 are all ?+s into :i* we c put lov+ ?\ght4 ,:o said ! gift )\t ! giv] is b>e8 ,:at does t mean8 ,h y ev] giv5 a gift or receiv$ "o into :i* no lov+ ?\ght _h be5 put8 ,see h[ mu* happi] y w feel :5 y give ?\ght1 too4 ,! girls ( ! ,pleasant ,valley ,sew+ ,league ?9k !y w make some?+ = _! fair4 ,miss ,james has a box full ( samples ( silk f a :olesale h\se1 :i* 7 giv5 to h]4 ,%e says ! girls may h !m4 ,"s ( ! pieces are v l>ge & c be us$ = _m ?+s4 ,next lesson y might d z !y did1 & all br+ any pieces y may h & see :at c be made f !m4 ,,lesson #a ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,h[ ,,silk ,,is ,,produc$ ,d y "k t a t9y little worm gives u our silk dresses1 hair ribbons1 neckties1 gloves1 /ock+s1 & _m o!r useful ?+s8 ,d y "k h[ ! worm makes ! silk8 ,x is a v wond]ful /ory4 ,let u /udy ab\t silk to-day4 ,9 ! picture 7,fig4 #fc7 y w see "o ( ! silkworms full-gr[n4 ,! "m & fa!r 7 beautiful mo?s4 ,! "m mo? lays ! little eggs on ! leaves ( ! mulb]ry tree because !y are good food = h] baby worms4 ,! sun%9e & w>m? hat* ! little eggs4 ,! eggs are l p9heads1 & are small] ?an t9y gra9s ( *opp$ corn :i* y fe$ y\r *ick5s4 ,y\r "m h5 sets on ! eggs until ! w>m? makes ! *icks gr[1 b ! sun%9e />ts ! t9y mo? eggs4 ,soon a little baby worm comes out & is z small z a t9y ?read4 ,x gr[s & gr[s & eats & eats1 until x is ab\t ?ree in*es long & ne>ly z ?ick ar\nd z "o ( y\r f+]s1 z ! picture %[s 7,fig4 #fc74 ,x takes ab\t a mon? = ! worm to gr[ s l>ge4 ,x mu/ be t5d$ v c>efully & giv5 ! "r food1 or x w die4 ,! food mu/ be *opp$ f9e4 ,x is l prep>+ milk = baby2 is x n8 ,!y mu/1 also1 be kept v clean 9 ord] to gr[4 ,cleanl9ess always helps animals1 z well z p1 to gr[4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,corticelli ,silk ,co4 ,copyright1 #ahif1 ,nonotuck ,silk ,co4 ,,fig4 #fc4--;,corticelli silkworm1 eat+4 ,h y he>d t !re are "s c\ntries :]e ! silkworm gr[s bett] ?an 9 o!rs8 ,c y "n ! c\ntries produc+ ! mo/ silk8 ,y h le>n$ t 9 y\r geography4 ,yes1 ,japan & ,*9a & ,italy4 ,yes1 & ,france & ,asia ,m9or1 too4 ,d y ?9k ! ,unit$ ,/ates produces v mu* silk8 ,:y n8 ,9 ! c\ntries nam$1 labor is n s exp5sive4 ,silkworms require mu* c>e & labor4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,unit$ ,/ates ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #fd4--,! h\ses or cocoons built by ! worms 9 ! bran*es4 ,silk is ! mo/ beautiful & ! /ronge/ ( ! common fib]s4 ,x also co/s ! mo/4 ,! silk fib] produc$ by ^! t9y worms is (t5 f\r ?\s& feet 9 l5g?4 ,let u le>n h[ ! t9y worm does su* a wond]ful ?+4 ,he mu/ "w z h>d z ! busy bee4 ,aft] ! worm is full-gr[n he beg9s 8 busy "w4 ,?is is l boys & girls2 !y1 too1 beg9 to "w :5 !y are gr[n4 ,if well f$ & clean1 ! worm w "w well4 ,?is is apt to be true ( girls & boys1 too4 ,! worm beg9s by mak+ a h\se = himself call$ a cocoon 7,fig4 #fd74 ,h y ev] se5 ! cocoons ( any mo?8 ,if y w look1 y w f9d !m on ! trees4 ,miss ,james has "s cocoons ( ! lovely gre5 ,luna mo?4 ,%e put ! gre5 worm 9 ! box1 & x has spun a cocoon4 ,we d n f9d ! mulb]ry worm gr[+ wild 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,9 "s c\ntries x gr[s wild1 j z our ,luna mo?4 ,:5 ! worm is ready to sp91 %e ?r[s out two t9y little ?reads "o f ea* side ( h] head4 ,?is is a secretion & is a k9d ( jellylike fluid4 ,z ! air t\*es x1 x h>d5s4 ,%e works h] head back & =?1 & ! t9y filam5ts1 or ?reads1 z !y are call$1 are jo9$ toge!r into "o4 ,%e works & works until %e has built a h\se ( silk ?reads all glu$ toge!r s t x seems l a mass ( p>*m5t pap]4 ,^! h\ses are ab\t #a-;in*es 9 l5g?1 & are :ite or yell[ 9 color4 ,9 ,*9a & ,japan ^! cocoons are gr[n & t5d$ v c>efully4 ,! outside ( ! cocoon is cov]$ ) ! loose fluffy silk :i* ! worm uses to atta* 8 home to a leaf or twig4 ,x takes ! worm ?ree weeks to make ?is long1 cont9u\s ?read call$ a cocoon4 ,dur+ t "t a wond]ful ?+ happ5s4 ,! worm inside ! cocoon is *ang$ to a mo? l h] "m & fa!r & is ready to leave h] home by eat+ h] way out4 ,:at w\ld happ5 to ! long silk ?read if %e did t8 ,yes1 x w\ld be brok5 into small pieces & n be "o cont9u\s piece4 ,"s mo?s are p]mitt$ to come out 7see ,fig4 #fe74 ,!y !n f9d a mate & soon m t9y eggs are laid by ! "m mo?2 & all ! /ory beg9s aga94 ,a sad ?+ happ5s :5 cocoons are gr[n = ! silk4 ,! mo?s are n all[$ to come out & break ! ?read2 b are put 9 a v hot place s !y die inside4 ,! cocoons are !n ready to be reel$ or w\nd (f4 ,!y are plac$ 9 bas9s ( hot wat] because ! gummy secretion ( ! worm mu/ be s(t5$4 ,! ends f f\r or five cocoons are caught toge!r & reel$1 or w\nd1 (f toge!r4 ,?is makes a /r& ( raw silk4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,corticelli ,silk ,co4 ,copyright1 #ahie1 by ,nonotuck ,silk ,co4 ,,fig4 #fe4--;,corticelli cocoons f :i* ! mo?s h em]g$4 ,john ,ald5 told ! foll[+ /ory4 ,he said 8 fa!r read x al\d ! night be=e :5 ! family ga!r$ ab\t ! big op5 fire4 ,once ^u a "t1 long ago1 p did n "k h[ to use ! beautiful fib]s ( ! silkworm4 ,we are told t a ,*9ese empress discov]$ h[ to use x z long ago z #bgjj ye>s be=e ! bir? ( ,*ri/4 ,e ye>1 9 ,april1 ! ,*9ese p h a celebration 9 h] honor1 because ( h] valuable discov]y4 ,?9k ( all ! ri*es %e add$ to h] c\ntry because ( ?is secret4 ,x is said t = _m ye>s ?is secret 0 kept2 b lat] "s monks travel+ ea/ to ,india & ,con/ant9ople told o!rs h[ to reel ! silk fib]4 ,!n ! use ( silk fib] spread to ,greece & ,italy & ,spa91 & by ! f\rte5? c5tury 0 common 9 ,france4 ,s9ce !n1 silk manufacture has gr[n rapidly 9 importance4 ,john trac$ ! j\rney on ! map4 ,w y see if y c trace ?is j\rney ( silk manufacture4 ,:]e d y ?9k ! secret 0 c>ri$ f ,france8 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,unit$ ,/ates ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #ff4--,silk reel+4 ,! cocoons are 9 ! bas9s be=e ! wom54 ,c y s5d = "s cocoons & raw silk8 ,y\r tea*] w tell y :]e to write4 ,raw silk1 z x is w\nd f cocoons1 is made up into hanks l ! wor/$ :i* y buy at ! /ore4 ,x is sold 9 hanks by ! p\nd & co/s f #g4jj to #aj4jj a p\nd4 ,x takes ?ree ?\s& silkworms to sp9 a p\nd ( raw silk4 ,d y "k t = gr&mo!r's dress ab\t two p\nds ( raw silk 7 necess>y8 ,c y tell h[ _m worms 7 kept busy8 ,9 ano!r lesson we %all le>n h[ ! manufactur] ( silk ribbons or silk mat]ial takes ! raw silk & makes x into beautiful fabrics4 ,n[ we "k ab\t a useful little animal z well z ab\t a plant :i* gives u clo?+4 ,silk1 h[ev]1 is m exp5sive ?an cotton4 ,cotton is sometimes made to look l silk4 ,! cotton fib] is m]c]iz$1 :i* means soak$ 9 c]ta9 *emicals & /ret*$ to make x look silky4 ,lisle ?read looks some:at l silk4 ,x is cotton twi/$ h>d to give x a lu/]4 ,ano!r day we %all le>n m ab\t ^!4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,d y "k :]e silk is gr[n8 ,write a /ory ( #ajj words tell+ ab\t x4 #b4 ,:y is n m silk gr[n 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates8 #c4 ,f9d on y\r map ( ! _w ! pr9cipal c\ntries :]e silk is gr[n4 #d4 ,"n "s articles made ( silk :i* y use e day2 :i* y see us$4 #e4 ,:at are "s ( ! o!r uses :i* we h = silk8 ,,lesson #b ,,simple ,,articles ,,easily ,,made ,,f ,,silk ,,scraps ,!re are s _m ?+s :i* c be made f silks4 ,suppose y />t ) some?+ easy4 ,miss ,james _h "s good sugge/ions4 ,! little p9-case or ! sew+-case are bo? useful 7,figs4 #fh & #fi74 ,y "k ! ov]h&+ /it*2 s y c make !m quickly4 ,sev]al ( ! ,pleasant ,valley girls w make !m = ,*ri/mas gifts z well z = ! fair4 ,:i* w y make8 ,"h are ! directions = mak+ bo? ! p9-case & ! sew+-case4 ,!y are n difficult if ! directions are foll[$ c>efully4 ,= ! ,p9case4 ,cut two circles ( /iff c>dbo>d f #b to #c in*es 9 diamet]1 if y\r silk pieces w p]mit4 ,! circles mu/ be exact4 ,cut two pieces ( silk #c or #d in*es 9 diamet]1 s ! silk pieces w be -in* l>g] all ar\nd ?an ! c>dbo>d4 -in* f ! edge1 ) d\ble ?read1 make a r[ ( ga!r+ /it*es2 slip c>dbo>d )9 & draw up ! silk ar\nd ! c>d4 ,n[ crisscross ) y\r ?read ?r\gh ! edges ( mat]ial until all is held firmly 7,fig4 #fg74 ,cov] bo? c>ds4 ,!n hold ! two toge!r1 & v neatly ov]h& ) silk ?read ( a color to mat*4 ,t9y /it*es %\ld be tak54 ,put 9 a r[ ( p9s ar\nd ! edges close toge!r4 ,a pretty decoration c be made by work+ a design or an initial on ! silk if x is a pla9 color4 ,?is c be done ) *a9 /it* or fea!r/it*1 be=e ! cov] is put ov] ! c>dbo>d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fg4--,?is %[s h[ to cov] ! circle1 & draw ! silk neatly at ! edges4 ,9 ! picture 7,fig4 #fh7 notice ! o!r cases4 ,!y are made exactly l ! p9-case b ( circles or ( pieces ( diff]5t %ape4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fh4--,sev]al useful cases3 ,a1 p9-case2 ,b1 oval p9-case2 ,c1 spool-case2 ,d1 d>n+-case2 ,e1 ne$le-book4 ,cases = doilies c be made ( two l>ge circles ( #ab 94 9 diamet]4 ,! circles c be ti$ toge!r ) ribbon & ! doilies lie flat betwe54 ,! case = d>n+ ?read is also v useful4 ,= ! sew+ case4 ,?is is m difficult4 ,x is ?ree-sid$ & is made ( ?ree elliptical disks cov]$ z we did ! r\nd ones = ! p9case4 ,h[ _m c>dbo>ds w y ne$8 ,?9 c>dbo>d is necess>y4 ,:at does elliptical mean8 ,a good size is #d in*es ! long way & #b-;in*es across4 ,all ! girls "k h[ to draw an ellipse4 ,cut ! six pieces ( silk -in* l>g] all ar\nd ?an ! ellipses1 & cov] 9 same way z y did ! r\nd disks4 ,if !re are n en\gh scraps ( "o color1 use a contra/+ color = ! l9+4 ,aft] ! six pieces h be5 cov]$ & jo9$ toge!r to make ?ree ellipses1 !n ! ?ree are to be ov]h&$ toge!r v neatly1 leav+ op5 ! ?ird edge1 :i* is ! op5+ ( ! case :]e ! spools1 etc4 are put inside4 ,! case naturally closes itself2 b1 :5 press$ at ! ends1 x op5s easily4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fi4--,! sew+ case made ( ?ree elliptical disks sew$ toge!r4 ,:at are "s pretty /it*es t may be us$ = decorat+8 ,if "o wi%es1 ! sew+ case c also be decorat$ ) a good design l ! "o 9 ! picture 7,fig4 #fi74 ,w\ld y l to make ! *a9 /it* & ! fea!r/it*8 ,!y are bo? useful = decoration on bags1 aprons1 dresses = baby1 und]we>1 & _m ?+s4 ,mollie ,/>k le>n$ ?is /it* & us$ x on a dress = h] baby bro!r4 ,mrs4 ,/>k is v happy to ?9k ,mollie is le>n+ h[ to sew4 ,^! are ! directions = mak+ sev]al pretty /it*es3 ,! *a9 /it* is easy to le>n4 ,beg9 ) a knot4 ,pass ! ?read f ! "u side up4 ,?r[ ! ?read s z to make an ,o 7see ,fig4 #gj74 ,put ! ne$le into ! hole :]e ?read came ?r\gh1 & make a /it* ab\t -in* long4 ,hold ! clo? ov] ! f+]s ) ! ?umb on top4 ,! ne$le %\ld be po9t$ t[>ds ! work]1 & ! po9t ( ! ne$le %\ld be br\ght up ?r\gh ! little r\nd ,o4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 9 pull+ ! ?read ?r\gh to h ! loop ( ?read ly+ flat on ! clo?4 ,! l5g? ( /it* %\ld be uni=m4 ,:at does uni=m mean8 ,! outl9e ( an initial or any drawn design c be foll[$ ) ?is /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gj4--,! *a9 /it*4 ,! fea!r/it* is v beautiful1 :5 made small & ev5 7,fig4 #ga74 ,x c be v>i$ by mak+ "o or two /it*es on ea* side ( a c5t] l9e4 ,! l5g? ( ! /it*es & ! slant always affect ! appe>ance4 ,9 practic+ ! fea!r/it* draw a p5cil l9e on y\r clo? z a guide4 ,! /it*es are slant+ & are tak5 t[>ds ?is l9e4 ,?is /it* is us$ = decoration 9 ! same way z ! *a9 /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ga4--;,a1 ! s+le fea!r/it*2 ,b1 ! d\ble fea!r/it*4 ,! s+le fea!r/it*4 ,hold ! "w ov] ! f+] ) ?umb on top ( clo?4 ,"w t[>ds y4 ,/>t ) knot on "u side ( p5cil l9e4 ,draw ?read ?r\gh to "r side4 ,lay ?read on ! p5cil l9e & hold ) ?umb4 ,to "r ( ?read ne> beg9n+1 take a small -in* slant+ /it* t[>ds ! l9e ( ?read4 ,draw ne$le ?r\gh ov] ! loop ( ?read4 ,h x loose & ly+ flat4 ,= ! second /it*1 hold ?read aga9 on ! p5cil m>k4 ,?r[ ?read = next /it* on ! left ( ! l9e4 ,take slant+ /it* t[>ds c5t] l9e4 ,draw ne$le up ?r\gh ! loop1 :i* %\ld lie flat4 ,! next /it* is tak5 to ! "r ( ! c5t] l9e directly "u ! /it* above x1 & %\ld be ! same l5g? & slant4 ,! beauty ( ?is /it* dep5ds on its ev5ness4 ,a /rip$ mat]ial makes a good practice piece4 ,aft] ! /it* is le>n$1 x is easy to make x on pla9 clo?2 b "o mu/ !n keep con/antly 9 m9d an imag9>y c5t] l9e4 ,?is is a v useful /it* = f9i%+ hems in/ead ( us+ ! hemm+ /it*4 ,! lawn ruffles on our petticoats 7 f9i%$ ) ?is /it*4 ,! fea!r/it* is sometimes a /raight /it* in/ead ( slant+4 ,x is tak5 ea* side ( ! imag9>y c5t] l9e z ! slant+ "o1 b ! ne$le is held /raight4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gb4--,! outl9e /it*4 ,! outl9e /it*4 ,?is is ano!r easy /it* 7,fig4 #gb7 :i* e girl %\ld le>n4 ,x c be us$ in/ead ( ! *a9 or fea!r/it*1 z decoration4 ,x outl9es1 or foll[s1 ! design1 & s gets its "n4 ,! /it* is tak5 on ! l9e & is work$ f left to "r4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 to h ! /it*es all ! same l5g? & to ?r[ ! ?read 9 "o direction ei!r away f or t[>ds ! work]4 ,! pretty effect w be spoil$ if !re is a v>iation4 ,away f ! work] makes a neat effect4 ,beg9 ) knot4 ,draw ne$le to "r side on ! l9e4 ,?r[ ?read away f work]2 take a small back /it* on ! l9e1 ne$le po9t+ t[>ds ! work]4 ,?is w make a long ?read on ! surface & ! %ort /it* b5ea?4 ,! effect is mu* pretti] :5 ! /it*es are tak5 close toge!r4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,"n "s o!r articles on :i* ! fea!r/it* or *a9 /it* c be us$2 "s on :i* ! outl9e /it* may be us$4 #b4 ,draw a picture on ! blackbo>d ( ! fea!r/it*1 *a9 /it*1 & outl9e /it*4 ,c y %[ h[ ! ne$le looks 9 position1 )\t look+ at y\r textbook8 ,,lesson #c ,,! ,,names ,,& ,,uses ,,( ,,sev]al ,,silks ,,are ,,discuss$ ,to-day we %all /udy aga9 ab\t silks4 ,let u look at ^? 9 ,miss ,james' piece bag2 &1 also1 see h[ _m diff]5t k9ds we h = our gifts4 ,p]haps y\r tea*] has "s too4 ,su* a v>iety ( k9ds & colors6 ,"s are s(t & light1 & o!rs are heavy & /iff4 ,d !y h names j z ! cotton mat]ials8 ,c any "o tell ! names ( any ( ^! silks8 ,yes1 ! pla9 "o is a taffeta4 ,x is pla9 9 color2 & ! weave is pla91 ! same on bo? sides4 ,sometimes x comes ) pr9t$ & wov5 figures4 ,:at is ! diff]5ce betwe5 a wov5 & a pr9t$ design8 ,"h is a piece ) a pr9t$ design4 ,x is a f\l>d silk4 ,h[ does ?is design diff] f ! taffeta ) ! design8 ,f\l>d silk is us$ = dresses4 ,taffeta is also2 z well z = l9+s & = petticoats4 ,a *eap quality ( taffeta does n we> well4 ,x co/s f #ge c5ts to #b4jj a y>d1 & is wov5 #ba in*es & wid]4 ,f\l>ds are ab\t #bd in*es wide & c be b\ght = ! same price z ! taffetas4 ,mollie's "m _h a f\l>d silk dress la/ summ]2 s did ,gr&mo!r ,all54 ,"h is a s(t cr9kl+ :ite piece & a d>k blue j l x2 & also a black piece4 ,^! are call$ crpe de *9e & are us$ = dresses1 also2 & sometimes = und]we>4 ,x is s(t & lu/r\s1 & comes 9 pla9 colors & sometimes pr9t$4 ,x co/s f #ge c5ts up & is wov5 #bb in*es & sometimes wid]4 ,%all we />t ano!r book ( mat]ials1 & see h[ _m silks we c le>n ab\t8 ,! piece ,b>b>a ,oakes br\ght is smoo? & %9y on ! "r side4 ,does anyone "k ! "n8 ,x is wov5 9 su* a way t ! fill+ ?read goes ov] sev]al ?reads & "u "o4 ,try x on y\r s*ool loom4 ,?is weave br+s mo/ ( ! fill+ ?read on ! surface ( ! clo?4 ,! mat]ial is call$ sat91 & ! weave is ! sat9 weave4 ,"s cottons are wov5 ) ! sat9 weave1 & (t5 9 table l95 or damask we see ! smoo? sat9 weave4 ,"h is a bit ( damask table l954 ,let u comp>e ?is smoo? "p ) ! sat94 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,crompton & ,kn[les4 ,,fig4 #gc4--,! ,jacqu>d loom4 ,notice ! c>ds ) pun*$ holes above x4 ,!y affect ! patt]n4 ,c y f9d ! clo? :i* is be+ wov58 ,sat9s are us$ = dresses1 l9+s1 trimm+s1 boxes1 & = _m o!r purposes4 ,!y co/ #a to #bj p] y>d1 if v beautiful1 & are wov5 f #ba to #ed in*es wide4 ,sat9 is sometimes made ( a comb9ation ( l95 or cotton1 ) ! silk4 ,x is !n less exp5sive4 ,! wo(1 or fill+ ?read1 :i* gives ! smoo? f9i% is silk2 & x is t :i* %[s 9 ! f9i%$ clo?4 ,?is piece ( silk1 :i* looks figur$ l table l951 only x is made ( silk1 is call$ a brocad$ sat94 ,?is sat9 is us$ = dresses & trimm+s1 & (t5 = furniture cov]+ & = hang+s 9 beautiful rooms4 ,x is made on a loom call$ a ,jacqu>d4 ,table damask is made on ! same k9d ( loom4 ,?is wond]ful loom 7,fig4 #gc7 is able to produce v beautiful patt]ns1 because ( ! managem5t ( ! p]=at$ c>ds above ! loom :i* affect ! patt]n4 ,! s(t :ite piece is *9a silk4 ,little ,alice ,all5 _h a dress made ( x la/ summ]4 ,x is a pla9 weave1 & _m ( su* silks are /ill wov5 by h& 9 ,*9a4 ,x is v durable & is us$ = dresses1 wai/s1 & und]we>4 ,x co/s #a = a fairly good quality1 & is wov5 #bd in*es wide4 ,?is piece ( silk1 also1 orig9at$ 9 ,*9a4 ,x is call$ pongee4 ,m>y ,jones _h a coat ( ?is la/ ye>4 ,x is ecru 9 color & is s(t4 ,! real ,*9ese pongee is h&-wov5 & is made f ! silk ( wild silkworms4 ,x is wov5 #bg in*es wide & co/s #a p] y>d up4 ,?is piece 0 #a4ej p] y>d4 ,?is is a que]-look+ piece4 ,x is m>k$ 9 a wat]y patt]n4 ,! silk has be5 press$ betwe5 hot roll]s :i* are /amp$ ) a patt]n to give t effect4 ,x is call$ moir silk1 & is us$ = trimm+s & dresses4 ,x is q exp5sive4 ,a good piece w co/ at lea/ #b p] y>d & is #bb in*es 9 wid?4 ,we %all le>n ab\t two m ( ! mo/ common silk mat]ials4 ,"o is ?ick1 & ! o!r is ?94 ,! ?9 piece is call$ *iffon4 ,:o has ev] se5 x us$8 ,yes1 = veils4 ,x is us$ = dresses1 too1 & = hats & trimm+s4 ,isn't x light & ?9 & gauzy8 ,x is made 9 pla9 colors g5]ally2 sometimes figur$4 ,x is #df in*es wide & co/s f 4#ge to #b p] y>d4 ,yes1 e "o kn[s ?is "o6 ,x is call$ velvet4 ,?is piece is all silk1 & 0 a "p ( ,m>jorie's great-gr&mo!r's dress4 ,"s velvets are made ( l95 & silk1 or ( cotton & silk4 ,all silk velvet is v exp5sive4 ,x (t5 co/s #aj a y>d & m4 ,"s silk velvet c be b\ght = #d or #e a y>d4 ,x is wov5 f #ah to #db in*es wide4 ,isn't x ?ick8 ,d y notice ! t9y ends /&+ up8 ,x is wov5 j l "s c>pet1 & ! ?ickness is call$ ! pile4 ,9 weav+1 little loops ( ! fill+ ?read are made1 & aft] weav+1 ^! are cut to =m ! pile4 ,su* weav+ looks v difficult4 ,! w>p is sometimes l95 or cotton4 ,?is o!r ?ick piece ) a pile is call$ plu%4 ,x has a long] pile ?an velvet4 ,!re are also cotton plu%es4 ,did y\r "m ev] h a w9t] coat ( plu%8 ,mrs4 ,ald5 _h "o :i* la/$ = ye>s4 ,let u m\nt our silk samples4 ,ano!r day we %all /udy h[ !y are wov5 f ! raw silk4 ,isn't x int]e/+ to feel acqua9t$ ) ?is new family ( mat]ials8 ,notice be=e next lesson h[ _m ?+s y see :i* are made ( silk4 ,h y any 9 y\r s*oolroom8 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,br+ to s*ool all ! samples ( diff]5t k9ds ( silks :i* y c collect4 ,c y tell _! names8 #b4 ,"n an exp5sive silk suitable = a dress1 & give its approximate co/4 ,"n an inexp5sive silk suitable = a summ] dress2 give its approximate co/4 #c4 ,:at is plu% us$ =8 ,:at is *iffon made (8 #d4 ,/>t a book ( silk samples4 ,,lesson #d ,,m ,,useful ,,gifts ,,& ,,h[ ,,to ,,make ,,!m ,two m useful gifts3 a workbag ( silk1 & a sew+ apron4 ,:i* w y *ose to make8 99 99 99 99 99 ,! workbag4 ,b>b>a ,oakes has a v complete little workbag 7,fig4 #gd7 :i* gr&mo!r made = h] la/ ,*ri/mas4 ,! girls ?9k !y w\ld l to copy x4 ,x is made ( a piece ( yell[ fl[]$ ribbon :i* 0 #h in*es wide2 a y>d is en\gh4 ,if y h scraps ( silk1 use a /rip #h in*es wide #ad in*es long4 ,) ! o!r #d in*es1 if ribbon is us$1 ! circul> disks = ! bottom are to be cov]$4 ,to make3 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gd4--;,a1 a v useful bag4 ,b1 ! sew+ apron4 #a4 ,cut two circles ( c>dbo>d #c in*es 9 diamet]4 ,cut ! silk = cov]+ f\r in*es 9 diamet]4 ,cov] 9 ! same way z y cov]$ ! p9 disk4 ,?is is ! bottom ( ! bag4 #b4 ,seam ! two ends ( ! #ad in* /rip toge!r ) two runs & back/it* 7see page #ce74 ,op5 seams flat4 ,turn along "o long edge1 -in* if selv$ge ( ribbon2 if silk1 make two turns3 fir/ -in*1 second -in*4 ,ba/e & hold ) fea!r/it* 7see page #abj71 or cross-/it* 7see page #ade7 ,at seam ( bag op5 seam c>efully -in* on ! "r side = cas+ hole = ribbon4 ,at ! opposite side1 "w a small buttonhole 7see page #dc7 -in* 9 l5g?4 ,?is w be ! top ( ! bag2 & ! two ribbons are to be run ?r\gh ! cas+ s x w draw up4 #c4 ,at ! o!r edge ( ! long /rip1 fold to ! wrong side3 fir/ #b in*es ( ! /rip1 & !n ! #b in*es fold$ ov] itself4 ,ba/e c>efully4 ,?is fold is to =m pockets on ! inside ( ! bag4 ,e two in*es along l5g? ( /rip1 m>k ) a p92 & on ! "r side ( bag1 fea!r/it* or cross-/it* 9 r[s two in*es deep1 to =m pockets on ! inside ( ! /rip4 #d4 ,ga!r ! edge ( ! /rip to be sew$ to ! cov]$ disks4 ,divide ga!rs 9 half4 ,p9 to disk4 ,ov]h& to disk ) close /it*es on ! inside ( bag4 ,?is workbag makes a v useful gift4 ,x c be fill$ ) a pair ( small scissors1 em]y1 ne$les1 & spools ( silk plac$ 9 ! pockets4 ,! ribbon = draw+ top is 9 two pieces1 -y>d 9 ea*4 ,/>t "o piece f "o side & run ar\nd cas+ until x comes out at ! same place x />t$4 ,tie 9 b[4 ,/>t o!r ribbon at opposite side1 & run x all ar\nd cas+1 until x returns to ! same side x />t$ f4 ,tie 9 b[4 ,! sew+ apron4--,ano!r useful gift is a small sew+ apron 7,fig4 #gd74 ,x c be made ( silk or ( dimity at #ab-;c5ts a y>d1 & ne$ n !n co/ m ?an #ae c5ts4 ,dimity is "o y>d wide2 & ( a y>d is en\gh4 ,to make3 #a4 ,f "o selv$ge cut a /rip #b-;in*es wide1 l5g?wise ( ! piece4 ,?is is = ! b& & is cut (f be=e ! apron is made4 ,remove o!r selv$ge4 #b4 ,turn -in* hem to "r side ( apron at ! l5g?wise edges ( clo?2 ba/e c>efully4 #c4 ,at "o cross wise end turn1 hem #a-;in*es wide to "r side4 ,ba/e & hem ) fea!r/it*+ on rev]se or wrong side4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ge4--;,f\r useful aprons4 #d4 ,turn up at bottom #h in*es to =m pocket1 s fea!r/it*+ w be on ! upp] or "r side4 ,ba/e & ov]h& edges ! dep? ( pocket4 #e4 ,fea!r/it* side hems1 cat*+ ! pocket to hold securely4 #f4 ,divide l>ge pocket 9 ?ree by mak+ two r[s ( fea!r/it*+ l picture4 #g4 ,put on b&4 ,divide ga!r$ top ( apron4 ,divide b&4 ,all[ b& to ext5d ea* side ( ga!rs4 ,a space ( #ab in*es 9 c5t] ( b& is en\gh to conta9 ! ga!rs4 ,put on z y put on ! b& ( petticoat1 b ov]h& edges ( ! b& ext5d+ beyond ga!rs4 #h4 ,a buttonhole & button c be us$ to f9i%1 or ribbon may be sew$ to ends ( b&4 ,?is makes a v useful gift4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gf4--,two cases on :i* ! fea!r/it* c be us$4 ,a1 ne$le case & bag4 ,b1 l95 travel+ case = ov]%oes4 ,look at ! sket*es 7,fig4 #ge7 ( o!r aprons3 ,a is made f a squ>e ( figur$ lawn2 -y>d is en\gh4 ,x is %ap$ at "o corn] = a bib4 ,a hem is turn$ at ! edge & fea!r/it*$4 ,a few small tucks make x fit ! wai/1 & ribbon trims x4 ,b is made f ( a y>d ( lawn1 z %[n 9 ! diagram4 ,place patt]n economically4 ,c is made ( a wid? ( lawn or silk ) a hem at ! bottom & cas+ at ! top4 ,d is made ( glass t[el+ trimm$ ) f9i%+ braid & fea!r/it*+4 ,figure #gf %[s "s useful cases ) decorations ( fea!r/it*4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,plan a gift & surprise "m at h] bir?day anniv]s>y4 ,y\r tea*] w help y4 #b4 ,see if y c plan an orig9al gift4 ,draw a sket* ( x4 #c4 ,br+ all ! sugge/ions = gifts y c f9d 9 clipp+s f old magaz9es4 ,,lesson #e ,,c\s9 ,,ann ,,tells ,,h[ ,,silk ,,is ,,made ,,into ,,clo? ,la/ summ] ,m>jorie ,all5's ,c\s9 ,ann visit$ h]4 ,%e lives at ,pat]son1 ,new ,j]sey1 :]e !re are _m silk mills4 ,%e told ! girls ( ! ,sew+ ,league ab\t ! way silk is made into clo?4 ,%all we too le>n h[8 ,:]e is silk manufactur$8 ,we "k t v little silk is gr[n 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates2 b we also "k t our c\ntry leads 9 ! manufacture ( silks & uses m raw silk ?an any o!r c\ntry 9 ! _w4 ,france is next & produces v beautiful mat]ials4 ,mo/ ( our silk factories are 9 ! ,ea/3 9 ,new ,j]sey1 ,connecticut1 ,new ,york1 & ,p5nsylvania4 ,p h tri$ to raise silkworms "h4 ,9 #afbd "s ,fr5*m5 liv+ 9 ,virg9ia tri$1 b 7 n v successful4 ,su* exp]im5ts h usually fail$ because x co/s s mu* = labor4 ,9 #agdg ! gov]nor ( ,connecticut wore a coat & /ock+s made ( silk produc$ on 8 place4 ,we use ab\t #he p] c5t ( ! silk manufactur$ "h4 ,:at p] c5t is1 !n1 export$8 ,9 #ahgf1 at ! great ,c5t5nial ,exhibition 9 ,philadelphia1 ,m>jorie's gr&mo!r saw wond]ful exhibits ( silk wov5 9 _m colors1 & ev5 beautiful wov5 pictures ( silk4 ,has any "o ev] se5 a wov5 picture ( silk8 ,h y ev] se5 "o t9y fib] ( silk z x looks "u ! microscope8 ,:at d y notice8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gg4--,silk fib]s magnifi$4 ,?is is :at ,m>jorie's c\s9 f ,pat]son told ! girls4 ,!y w5t to "o room at ! mill :]e !re 7 great bales ( silk1 weigh+ ab\t #ajj or #aej p\nds1 b n q s heavy or l>ge z a bale ( cotton4 ,:5 op5$ !re 7 _m hanks 9 ea* bale2 ti$ up1 five or t5 9 a bundle4 ,^! hanks 7 tak5 fir/ to a man call$ a ?r[/]4 ,silk ?r[+ means soak+ ! ske9s to remove m ( ! gum1 & w9d+ ! silk f ! ske9 to a spool4 ,?is is done by soak+ 9 w>m wat]1 dry+1 & !n plac+ ! silk on swifts1 or reels4 ,h y ev] se5 a reel = w9d+8 7,see ,fig4 #gh47 ,x holds ! ske9 ( silk4 ,! ends are tak51 & ! ma*9e unw9ds f ! ske9 & w9ds ! silk on spools4 ,9 "o ske9 !re are f #ge1jjj to #bjj1jjj y>ds ( silk4 ,! spools are !n plac$ 9 a ma*9e :i* cleans & twi/s two ( ^! spool ?reads toge!r to =m "o1 & !n w9ds x (f on new spools4 ,?is twi/$ silk is call$ organz9e4 ,isn't t a que] "n8 ,x means ! ?read us$ 9 a loom = ! w>p or /rong ?reads4 ,:y are twi/$ ?reads /rong]8 ,try1 & see if !y are4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gh4--,silk w9d+4 ,silk is a mo/ p]fect fib]2 & does n h to be prep>$ z mu* z cotton or wool4 ,sometimes x is twi/$ a v little = ! w>p4 ,! fill+ ?read has a que] "n1 too4 ,x is call$ ! tram1 & ne$ n be ( s good a quality ( silk z ! /rong w>p1 nor s tightly twi/$4 ,cotton sp9n+ is diff]5t f silk ?r[+2 b bo? mean gett+ ! fib]s ready = weav+4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,*5ey ,bros4 ,,fig4 #gi4--,silk dye+4 ,!re are _m beautiful color$ silks4 ,silk is usually dy$ 7,fig4 #gi7 9 ! y>n 9 hanks4 ,! poor qualities1 h[ev]1 are dy$ aft] ! silk is wov5 into ! piece4 ,silk is dy$ by dipp+ ! ske9s or y>ds ( silk 9 great vats ( dye4 ,= dye+1 ! coal-t> products 7anil9e dyes7 are us$4 ,did y "k t coal c\ld produce su* beautiful colors8 ,t is a long /ory ( ! _m wond]ful ?+s :i* c be made f t>4 ,d y "k t #be p] c5t ( ! weight ( ! raw silk is made up ( ! gummy sub/ance8 ,! dy] boils out "s ( ! gum2 &1 if he wi%es to produce *eap silks & make mu* money1 he makes up = ! weight ( gum boil$ out1 by us+ t94 ,! silk is dipp$ 9 bi*loride ( t9 or o!r sub/ances2 & x takes up1 or absorbs1 until sometimes x weighs twice or ev5 f\r times z mu* z ! boil$-(f silks4 ,?is t9 is b\ght = silk4 ,wom5 :o d n "k ?9k !y are buy+ heavy silk & are gett+ a good quality because x is s heavy4 ,?is solution ( t9 rots ! silk1 &1 :5 ! silk comes 9 contact ) light & air1 x crumbles away4 ,p]haps y h at home a sample ( silk :i* has done ?is4 ,m>jorie's ,c\s9 ,ann saw "s petticoats ( silk :i* w5t to pieces j hang+ 9 a closet4 ,sometimes t happ5s :5 /ore keep]s keep ! petticoats = "s "t4 ,"o c see ! holes by hold+ ! silk up to ! light4 ,9 ord] to "k :at "o is buy+ "o mu/ /udy ab\t mat]ials & ab\t h[ !y are made4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,*5ey ,bros4 ,,fig4 #hj4--,w>p+ or prep>+ silk = ! loom4 ,h y ev] se5 a picture ( silk be+ dy$ 9 ! ske98 ,m>jorie's c\s9 says x is done by ma*9]y4 ,see h[ _m ske9s are on ! big :eel1 or drum z x is call$4 ,z x turns1 ! ske9s are dipp$ 9 ! vat ( dye4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,*5ey ,bros4 ,,fig4 #ha4--,silk weav+ on a h& loom 9 ,japan4 ,aft] ! w>p ?reads are twi/$ & w\nd on spools1 ! workman places ! spools 9 racks 7see ,fig4 #hj74 ,!y are !n unw\nd aga9 on to a v l>ge roll]1 z y c see 9 ! picture4 ,! l>ge roll] is !n put into ! back ( ! loom1 & ! w>p ?reads are drawn ?r\gh & prep>$ s !y are atta*$ to ! roll] :]e ! clo? is to be roll$ aft] x is wov54 ,d y rememb] h[ we f\nd ! clo? & ! w>p roll]s :5 we 7 /udy+ ab\t h[ cotton clo? is made8 ,= pla9 silks a loom is us$ v mu* l ! looms = weav+ cotton clo? 7see page #fi72 b1 = fancy silks & beautiful patt]ns & designs1 ! ,jacqu>d loom l ! picture 7see page #abd7 is necess>y4 ,?is wond]ful ma*9e 0 inv5t$ by a ,fr5*man1 ,joseph ,m>ie ,jacqu>d1 9 #ahja4 ,! c>ds are cut 9 t9y holes :i* regulate ! patt]n & make beautiful designs4 ,! c>ds control ! w>p ?reads & regulate :i* ?reads are to be up & :i* d[n1 z ! %uttle passes ov] & "u4 ,! %uttle is l9$ ) s(t seal sk9 to protect ! silk fib]s ( ! fill+ ?read on ! bobb9 z !y unroll4 ,w\ld y too n l to visit a silk factory8 ,p]haps come day y may be able to g to ,pat]son or to "s l>ge city1 & may see all ! wond]ful ?+s :i* ,m>jorie's c\s9 saw4 ,! book pictures w give y a good idea ( h[ a mill or factory looks inside4 ,x is a v busy place4 ,p]haps y\r tea*] may be able to get "s /]eopticon or motion picture views to %[ y1 z ,miss ,james %[$ ! ,pleasant ,valley *ildr54 ,%e us$ ! *ur* lant]n4 ,"s ( ! mo!rs & fa!rs came1 too1 to he> ! /ory ab\t silk4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,f9d on y\r map ! mo/ important city 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates = ! manufacture ( silk4 #b4 ,write a /ory ab\t ! silk ?r[+4 #c4 ,if !re is a silk mill 9 y\r neighborhood1 plan to visit x ) y\r tea*]4 #d4 ,look up ! /ory ( ,jacqu>d1 ! inv5tor ( ! loom devices = mak+ beautiful patt]ns4 ,,lesson #f ,,! ,,blanket ,,/it* ,,c ,,be ,,us$ ,,9 ,,_m ,,ways ,did y ev] he> ( a /it* call$ ! blanket /it*8 ,x is v useful = decoration4 ,we c make "s attractive gifts if we "k h[ to make x4 ,w\ld y l to try to-day8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hb4--,! blanket /it*4 ,did y ev] notice h[ pretty "s v]&as look 9 summ] "t8 ,mrs4 ,/>k ( ,pleasant ,valley has a v attractive1 cosy por*4 ,y\rs c look pretty1 too1 if y w give ?\ght & a little "t to x4 ,y c plant "s pretty v9es z ! girls did at ! ,ell5 ,h4 ,ri*>ds h\se4 ,! cucumb] gr[s wild & c be transplant$4 ,p]haps 9 ! attic y c f9d an old table1 :i* w d to hold y\r sew+ ?+s4 ,c y make a cov] = x8 ,p]haps y c make a por* cu%ion1 too4 ,! blanket /it* 7,fig4 #hb7 w be useful = bo?4 ,did y ev] see a mat]ial call$ ,russian cra%8 ,x is made 9 ,russia1 ( co>se l951 & is (t5 wov5 9 ! fields4 ,x is n v wide1 #af or #ah in*es only4 ,x is light br[n 9 color4 ,if y _c get ! cra%1 p]haps y h "s gra9 or fe$ bags :i* w d4 ,y c dip !m 9 c(fee to /a9 !m light br[n1 z ,m>jorie ,all5 did :5 %e made a cov] = ! por* table4 ,a piece #a-y>ds long & f #af to #bj in*es wide w make a good-siz$ table runn] to ?r[ ov] ! old table on ! por*4 ,if y use ! old bags & ! edges are n selv$ges1 turn !m ) "o turn+ -in* wide all ar\nd ! edges1 & ba/e4 ,h[ c y f9i% ! edge ( a table runn]8 ,y c make ! blanket /it* close toge!r ar\nd ! edge4 ,a heavy m]c]iz$ cotton ?read c be us$ = ! /it*1 & w look well if x is br[n 9 color to h>monize ) ! l95 or bag4 ,! blanket /it* is us$ g5]ally = blanket edges :i* are n hemm$4 ,x is a /it* to prev5t mat]ial f fray+1 & is tak5 on ! edge ( mat]ial4 ,:5 ! clo? is n v heavy1 "o turn+ c be made to give firmness to ! edge4 ,?is is n necess>y on blankets or on heavy mat]ials4 ,! /it* is work$ f left to "r4 ,! edge ( ! clo? is held t[>ds ! work]4 ,/>t ) a few runn+ /it*es & br+ ! ne$le up ne> ! edge4 ,h ! ?read "u ! ?umb4 ,ins]t ! ne$le any dep? desir$ & po9t ne$le at "r angles to ! edge ( ! clo?1 t[>ds ! work]4 ,! ne$le %\ld come up "u ! edge & ?r\gh ! loop made by ! ?read4 ,! ?read w be c>ri$ along ! edge z ! /it*es are made4 ,9 f9i%+ a ?read1 take small t9y /it*es on ! wrong side4 ,9 />t+ a new ?read1 br+ x up ?r\gh ! la/ loop at ! edge4 ,on "s mat]ials ! /it*es c be or ( an in* ap>t1 or tak5 v close toge!r z we d :5 we "w on :ite l95 & scallop ! edges4 ,! /it*es c be or or ev5 an in* deep1 & !y c be arrang$ to =m a patt]n4 ,9 ! picture y w see t ! /it*es are arrang$ 9 blocks--twelve l[ ones ( an in*1 & #ab ( ( an in*4 ,!y c also be arrang$ to =m /airs asc5d+ & desc5d+ ) a diff]5ce ( ( an in* 9 ! dep? ( ea* /it*4 ,suppose y plan to make ! block patt]n ( ! blanket /it* all ar\nd ! edge ( ! table runn]4 ,n[1 c y make a por* cu%ion8 ,! por* cu%ion 7,fig4 #hc7 c be made ( a /rip ( cra% or ( a piece ( bagg+1 #a y>d long & #af in*es wide4 ,hem "o end ) a #a in* hem & ! o!r ) a -in* hem1 turn+ bo? to wrong side4 ,fold s t ! #a in* hem ov]laps ! -in* hem4 ,p9 c>efully4 ,?is makes a k9d ( envelope & x c be fill$ lat] ) a cu%ion ( bran or excelsior or fea!rs4 ,fold s t ! ov]lapp+ ( hems comes ab\t #d in*es f "o end ( ! cu%ion4 ,aft] fold+ & p9n+1 ba/e c>efully ?r\gh ! two ?icknesses ( mat]ial4 ,"w ! blanket /it* all ar\nd f\r sides ) ! heavy br[n l95 or cotton ?read4 ,use ! same block patt]n z = ! table cov]4 ,! cu%ion is kept clos$ ) ?ree or f\r snaps sew$ on ! hems4 ,^! cu%ions c be made any size = hammock or = por* use4 ,mrs4 ,/>k lik$ ,mollie's s well t %e made a :ole set = h] por*1 & us$ old bags = ?is purpose4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hc4--,! por* cu%ion1 %[+ ! blanket /it* 9 block patt]n1 & ! op5+ ne> "o end4 ,c y ?9k ( any pretty articles to make = ! fair or = surprise gifts on :i* ! blanket /it* c be us$8 ,h y ev] scallop$ ! edges ( doilies ) pla9 scallop8 ,! :ite l95 c be cut 9 circles to fit ! size ( ! plates & ! edge m>k$ 9 scallops by us+ a spool4 ,! /it* is exactly ! same1 b ! /it*es are tak5 v close toge!r & cov] ! two l9es ( ! m>k$ scallop :i* indicate ! dep?4 ,doilies are v useful in/ead ( a tableclo?4 ,!y are easily laund]$ & save ! heavy wa%+4 ,a b>e wood5 table :i* is kept clean & oil$ is v attractive :5 set ) doilies4 7,see ,food & ,heal?1 page #gc74 ,c y make a set sometime z a surprise = "m's ,*ri/mas gift8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hd4--;,blanket /it* made close toge!r = a scallop$ edge4 ,p9cu%ion tops1 bureau cov]s1 table cov]s1 tray cov]s1 c5t]pieces1 c all be made ) ?is useful /it*4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,draw a picture on ! blackbo>d ( ! blanket /it*4 #b4 ,br+ to s*ool "s article on :i* ! blanket /it* is us$ 9 "s way4 ,h an exhibit ( all ! articles br\ght4 ,,lesson #g ,,le>n+ ,,to ,,make ,,! ,,cross-,,/it* ,did y\r gr&mo!r ev] tell y h[ %e le>n$ to sew :5 %e 0 a girl8 ,h y se5 h] sew+ sampl]8 ,%all we le>n ! /it* %e us$ on h] sampl]8 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,metropolitan ,museum ( ,art4 ,,fig4 #he4--,two sampl]s ( long ago4 ,be=e ! days ( sew+ ma*9es1 ! family sew+ 0 all done at home & by h&4 ,to-day we h factories & %ops1 & we c buy _m articles ( clo?+ ready-made4 ,all little girls 7 taught to sew at home 9 ^? days4 ,sew+ 0 n g5]ally taught at s*ool4 ,_m long seams 7 giv5 to ! girls to sew4 ,! girls _h mu* practice & le>n$ to sew v well4 ,e little girl 0 suppos$ to make a sampl]4 ,! picture %[s two sampl]s 7,fig4 #he74 ,b>b>a ,oakes has two sampl]s :i* %e values v mu* because h] great-gr&mo!r & gr&mo!r made !m4 ,p]haps y may h "o :i* y\r gr&mo!r made4 ,! /it* us$ = ! sampl]s 0 usually ! cross-/it* 7,fig4 #hg74 ,w\ld y l to le>n to make x1 too8 ,x is a decorative /it* & is (t5 us$ = m>k+ l954 ,gr&mo!r & great-gr&mo!r us$ to m>k _! %eets1 pill[cases1 & o!r h\sehold l95s ) t9y initials ( cross-/it*4 ,x is possible1 also1 to make qua9t designs ( ! same /it*4 ,p]haps y w\ld l to le>n to make su* a patt]n4 ,x is necess>y to h squ>$ pap] & to make ! crosses con=m to ! figures or initials wi%$4 ,! picture 7,fig4 #hf7 %[s h[ to make ! crosses fit ! squ>es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hf4--;,cross-/it* designs c be easily made on squ>$ pap]4 ,a1 initials = t[el2 ,b1 design = repetition on table cov] or sc>f4 ,w y try to make a design = ! cross-/it*8 ,z ! design is made on ! squ>es1 x is necess>y to use squ>$ canvas call$ ,p5elope canvas 9 work+ ?is cross-/it*4 ,! canvas is ba/$ 9 place & ! /it*es made ov] ! squ>es ( ! canvas1 foll[+ ! design ( ! patt]n4 ,!re are "s co>se mat]ials :i* c be foll[$ )\t us+ canvas4 ,! canvas is wov5 s loosely t aft] ! cross-/it* design is f9i%$1 ! ?reads are drawn out4 ,h[ to make ! /it*3 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hg4--,! cross-/it*4 ,ba/e ! canvas c>efully s t ! w>p ( ! canvas lies on ! w>p ( ! clo?4 ,! canvas comes 9 sev]al sizes1 "s f9] ?an o!rs1 & ?is makes a diff]5ce 9 ! size ( ! design :5 f9i%$4 ,! /it* consi/s ( two slant+ l9es cross$4 ,on ! wrong side all ! /it*es may be ei!r v]tical or horizontal1 b %\ld be "o or ! o!r4 ,d y "k ! diff]5ce8 ,! canvas is s wov5 t "o makes ! cross ov] two ?reads high & two wide4 ,br+ ne$le up to "r side at l[] left corn] ( ! squ>e t ! /it* w\ld =m if inclos$ 7,fig4 #hg74 ,pass ?read slant+ across w>p ?reads1 & take /it* on l9e ) w>p1 po9t+ ne$le t[>ds ! work]4 ,:5 ?read is drawn ?r\gh1 a slant+ l9e ( half ! cross is made4 ,?is c be repeat$ across a :ole r[ accord+ to design1 & ! cross f9i%$ by return+ f "r to left ) ! same v]tical /it*es4 ,x is necess>y to h all ! /it*es ( ! design cross+ "o way3 ! gr\nd /it*es1 or fir/ half1 "o way2 ! o!r half1 or upp] /it*es1 all ! o!r4 ,:at pretty gifts c be made f ! cross-/it*8 ,t[els hem/it*$ across ! ends & m>k$ ) cross-/it* make attractive gifts = "m or gr&mo!r4 ,a pretty set = a baby is made by m>k+ ba? t[el1 face t[el1 & wa% clo?s ) a pretty wrea? design ) baby's initial4 ,bureau cov]s1 table sc>fs1 p9cu%ions c be made4 ,"h is a picture 7,fig4 #hh7 ( a simple h& t[el ) cross-/it* initials4 ,! t[el is made ( huckaback1 all l954 ,y rememb] x c be b\ght 9 all cotton1 too1 or a comb9ation4 ,:i* is m exp5sive8 ,! wid? v>ies4 ,! picture %[s a small gue/ t[el #ah in*es wide4 ,x is easy to le>n to hem/it* l954 ,%all we try next lesson8 ,! picture 7,fig4 #hh7 %[s fancy hem/it*+ & drawn "w4 ,we %all le>n ! pla9 hem/it*+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hh4--;,a gue/ t[el m>k$ ) cross-/it*4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,if any "o 9 y\r t[n has an old sampl]1 try to get x = a loan exhibit1 :ile ! girls are mak+ _! cross-/it*+4 #b4 ,make a design = cross-/it* "w suitable = an end ( a t[el or = any article y wi%4 ,,lesson #h ,,h[ ,,to ,,make ,,! ,,hem/it* ,d y "k t "s girls are (t5 confus$ & call ! hem/it*1 ! hemm+ /it*8 ,b>b>a ,oakes us$ to1 b und]/&s n[4 ,y h le>n$ ! hemm+ /it*2 n[ y w try ! hem/it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hi4--,! hem/it*4 ,see if y c discov] ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! hemm+ /it* & ! hem/it*8 ,bo? are us$ at ! top ( ! hem to hold x 9 place1 b (t5 ! hem/it* is us$ 9 o!r places1 too4 ,x is necess>y to draw out "s ?reads ( ! clo? or l951 be=e ! /it* c be made4 ,= ! hem/it*$ t[el1 measure = y\r hem4 ,f ! raw edge1 x w be twice ! wid? ( ! f9i%$ hem plus "o turn+ ( -in*4 ,h[ mu*1 !n1 w y measure = a hem "o in* :5 f9i%$8 ,at ! po9t measur$1 place a p94 ,draw out ?ree or f\r ( ! wo( ?reads v c>efully4 ,be sure to pull out ! :ole ?read all ! way across1 :5 x breaks4 ,rememb] h[ ! fill+ ?read passes at ! selv$ge1 & remove x !re z x turns4 ,!n ba/e ! hem v c>efully1 turn+ to wrong side4 ,ba/e close to fir/ drawn ?read4 ,hold "w ov] f+]s ( left h& 9 v]tical position4 ,place ne$le 9 edge ( hem1 & draw ?read )\t a knot "u ! edge ( hem j exactly z pla9 hemm+ is />t$ 7,fig4 #hi74 ,?r[ ?read away f ! work]2 take up a bundle ( ! ?reads by pass+ ! ne$le "u !m & po9t+ x t[>ds ! work] along ! edge ( ! hem4 ,aga9 pass ! ne$le "u ! same bundle ( ?reads1 b ?is "t pass ! ne$le ?r\gh ! "u clo? & also ?r\gh ! edge ( ! turn$ hem1 j beyond ! bundle4 ,?is /it* %\ld come betwe5 two bundles ( ?read4 ,make ! next /it* by tak+ up a second bundle ( ?reads4 ,at fir/1 "o %\ld c\nt ! numb] ( ?reads s z to h ! bundles uni=m2 b ) practice ?is is n necess>y4 ,z a rule1 ! co>s] ! mat]ial1 ! few] ! numb] ( ?reads tak5 up4 ,?is is a simple way ( hem/it*+4 ,!re are o!r ways4 ,d\ble hem/it*+ means to hem/it* ! o!r side opposite ! hem1 by tak+ up ! same bundles4 ,m>jorie ,all5 made ,gr&mo!r ,all5 a lovely hem/it*$ t[el = ,*ri/mas4 ,%e 0 v mu* surpris$ & delight$ to h "s ( ,m>jorie's own "w4 ,m>jorie ti$ x up v da9tily 9 :ite tissue pap] & us$ "s ,*ri/mas seals to hold x fa/4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,n[ t y "k ! hem/it*1 y c use x 9 _m places4 ,c y tell h[ x diff]s f ! hemm+ /it*8 #b4 ,?9k ( "s useful ?+s on :i* ?is /it* c be made besides ^? m5tion$ bel[3-- ,coll>s ,bags ,h&k]*iefs ,cuffs ,cov]s ,doilies ,,lesson #i ,,ano!r ,,useful ,,gift ,,& ,a ,,new ,,/it* ,h y ev] notic$ h[ conv5i5t x is to h a place = ! clo!sp9s1 on wa% day8 ,w\ld y l to le>n to make a clo!sp9 bag8 ,h[ to make ano!r gift4 ,a v useful clo!sp9 bag 7,fig4 #ij7 = "m c be easily made ) a hammock hook & "s tick+4 ,mrs4 ,all5 says %e _c keep h\se )\t h]s4 ,did y le>n ab\t tick+ :5 y /udi$ cotton mat]ials8 ,pill[ cov]s & mattresses are made ( x1 z x is heavy & /rong & we>s v well4 ,put a piece 9 y\r cotton sample book4 ,x is wov5 #cf in*es wide & co/s f #ab-;c5ts up4 ,notice ! weave4 ,x is twill$ or /rip$ or h]r+bone weave4 ,d5im or any heavy mat]ial c be us$4 ,a squ>e piece is necess>y1 #bh #bh in*es4 ,hem4 ,fir/ turn+1 -in*2 second turn+1 "o in*4 ,/it* on ma*9e4 ,mit] ! corn]s4 ,! corn]s are to be sew$ securely ) heavy l95 ?read to ! f\r corn]s ( ! hammock hook 7,fig4 #ij74 ,! hook is hung on ! clo!sl9e1 & x is v easy & h&y to pu% along z ! clo!s are hung up4 ,if "o wi%es1 ! bag c be decorat$ ) a cat* /it*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ij4--,! clo!sp9 bag4 ,h[ to make ! cat* /it* or h]r+bone /it*4 ,?is /it* c be us$ = decoration or = cat*+ ! edges ( a seam or hem4 ,gr&mo!r ,all5 us$ to use x on h] own flannel petticoats & on baby ,alice's flannel skirts4 ,aft] ! pla9 seam is made1 x is op5$ flat & ! edges are caught ) ! loose cat* /it*4 ,x is really a flannel /it*1 because1 z ! flannel may %r9k a little1 ! /it* all[s = ?is1 & holds ! hem flat4 ,flannel hems d n h ! fir/ turn+ z x is s ?ick4 ,! cat* /it* is !n us$ to hold ! hem4 ,c y br+ "o ( baby's petticoats to %[ ! class h[ x looks8 ,! same /it* is us$ = decoration too4 ,we %all use x = t purpose on ! clo!sp9 bag1 be=e we sew ! corn]s to ! hook4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ia4--,! cat* /it*4 ,! /it* is made f left to "r4 ,we c use ! ma*9e /it*+ = a guide4 ,we %all use ! /it* on ! "r side4 ,x resembles cross-/it*4 ,x is really a s]ies ( back /it*es plac$ alt]nately above & bel[ ! guide l9e4 ,! spaces betwe5 /it*es %\ld be ! same & ! /it*es bel[ ! guide l9e opposite ! spaces above 7,fig4 #ia74 ,?is causes ! ?read to slant & makes ! cross1 z x is work$ f left to "r4 ,to />t1 draw ne$le to "r side ab\t -in* bel[ ! l9e ( ma*9e /it*4 ,! fir/ back /it* is tak5 -in* above ! ma*9e /it*+4 ,?is w make ! slant+ l9e1 z ! /it* is -in* beyond ! />t+ place4 ,! second /it* is tak5 bel[ ! l9e2 & ! directions z above are foll[$ s t /it*es come opposite ! spaces1 above & bel[4 ,9 f9i%+ an old ?read1 take two or ?ree small /it*es on wrong side4 ,9 beg9n+ a new ?read1 draw up z at ! />t1 s z to =m ! correct cross on ! "r side4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,?is h]r+bone or cat* /it* c be us$ 9 _m places4 ,c y sugge/ any8 #b4 ,draw a picture ( ?is /it* on ! blackbo>d4 #c4 ,%[ "s neighbor h[ to make ?is /it*4 ,,lesson #aj ,,! ,,d>n+ ,,/it* ,did y "k t sometimes d>n+ is us$ = decoration in/ead ( j on ! /ock+8 ,let u make a gift us+ x4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ib4--,! d>n+ /it*es make ! initials /& out4 ,! d>n+ /it* is no?+ b f9e runn+ /it*es plac$ alt]nately "u "o ano!r s z to fill a space4 ,miss ,james has ask$ ! girls to make l95 cov]s = _! cook+ notebooks4 ,!y decide to put _! two initials on ! cov] & to "w !m 9 outl9e /it*4 ,! sket* 7,fig4 #ib7 %[s h[ !y w make !m )9 an oblong :i* is also to be outl9$4 ,! d>n+ /it* w be us$ z a backgr\nd to make ! initials /& out4 ,x is a f9e runn+ /it*4 ,any design c be made to /& out by arrang+ ! d>n+ back ( ! outl9$ design4 ,! notebooks w be cov]$ s t ! cov]s may slip (f4 ,?is is done by ov]h&+ ! edges & slipp+ ! cov] ( ! book into ! pocket =m$ by ! ov]h&+4 ,! cov] is all 9 "o3 a /raight piece fold$ back inside ! cov] ( book & ov]h&$ at ! folds1 to hold ! book4 ,! picture 7,fig4 #ic7 ( baby's bib also %[s ! use ( ! d>n+ /it* to make a design /& out4 ,?is is a bib us$ by little ,alice ,all54 ,m>jorie made x = h]1 :5 %e 0 two ye>s old & _h a bir?day p>ty4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ic4--,! d>n+ /it* makes ! design ( ! rabbits /& out4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,make a design = y\r notebook cov]4 #b4 ,calculate size ( piece ( mat]ial ne$$1 if bo? cov]s are #i ,x #f4 ,all[ -in* turn+s all ar\nd4 #c4 ,try to plan a design ) a backgr\nd ( d>n+ /it*es4 ,p]haps y c use x on a ,*ri/mas gift = bro!r4 ,,review ,,problems ,i4 ,plan a gift = fa!r's ,*ri/mas on :i* ! d>n+ or cross-/it* is us$4 ,,ii4 ,look up ! /ory ( ! hi/ory ( silk culture & write a /ory to be read 9 s*ool4 ,p]haps x may be z good z ! "o ,b>b>a ,oakes wrote4 ,h] /ory 0 pr9t$ 9 ! ,pleasant ,valley ,news4 ,illu/ration ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,! ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,girls ,,le>n ,,to ,,c>e ,,= ,,_! ,,clo!s ,,& ,,to ,,help ,,repair ,,! ,,h\sehold ,,l954 ,h y ev] notic$ t "s h\ses :]e y visit are always neat & look well c>$ =1 & t ! t[els & table l95 are c>efully d>n$ or pat*$8 ,h y se5 :at a diff]5ce !re is 9 ! appe>ance ( ! p :o d n c>e = _! h\ses & clo?+1 & ^? :o d8 ,! latt] are apt to we> neat-look+ %irt wai/s1 to pat* ! worn places & d>n ! holes be=e !y are too l>ge1 & to sew on ! buttons be=e !y are lo/4 ,! little ^w ,c-,a-,r-,e is responsible = ! diff]5ce4 ,h y le>n$ to help at home to repair & c>e = ! clo?+ & h\sehold l95s8 ,a /it* 9 "t saves n9e4 ,x (t5 saves money & "t1 too4 ,d y "k :y8 ,le>n h[4 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls le>n$ to d>n & pat* & occasionally ,miss ,james _h a repair day1 :5 all 7 p]mitt$ to br+ _! m5d+4 ,c y d ?is at y\r s*ool8 ,,lesson #a ,,c>e ,,( ,,clo!s ,:at are "s ( ! ?+s to le>n 9 ord] to c>e = "o's clo!s8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #id4--;,e!l ,all5 rememb]s ab\t ! lesson on neatness4 ,%e is remov+ a spot4 ,m>jorie ,all5's ,c\s9 ,ann1 :o lives at ,pat]son1 ,new ,j]sey1 sp5ds h] summ] vacation ) ,m>jorie at ,pleasant ,valley4 ,m>jorie kn[s t %e e>ns t5 doll>s a week at ! (fice & pays all h] own exp5ses4 ,%e always looks v neat & well dress$4 ,:at is ! secret8 ,%e has le>n$ h[ to sp5d wisely & h[ to c>e = h] clo?+4 ,%e le>n$ mu* ( ?is at s*ool1 & exp]i5ce has taught h] h[ to manage4 ,suppose we le>n1 too1 s z to be able to c>e = our clo!s4 ,"h are "s ( ! ?+s ,m>jorie's c\s9 le>n$3 #a4 ,t clo!s1 if well bru%$1 look bett]4 #b4 ,a well-press$ suit or skirt la/s long] & looks neat]4 #c4 ,/a9s or spots spoil "o's neat appe>ance & look c>eless4 #d4 ,a pat* or a d>n is no disgrace4 ,!y make "o feel m self-respect+ ?an holes or te>s4 ,!y help to increase ! life ( a g>m5t1 too1 if tak5 9 "t4 #e4 ,t be+ c>eful ea* day saves mu* "t2 a little c>e is wor? :ile4 ,let u /udy to-day h[ to d "s ( ^! ?+s4 ,p]haps we c clean our s*ool coats or "s wool g>m5ts br\ght f home4 ,bru%+ clo!s4 ,_m p :o live 9 l>ge cities d n h g>d5s & y>ds :]e !y c hang _! clo!s & bru% !m4 ,(t5 bru%+ & clean+ mu/ be done on ! ro(s ( h\ses4 ,h[ glad we %\ld be = space & a *ance to keep clean4 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls h /udi$ ab\t ?is4 ,d y "k t x co/s to keep clean8 ,x takes "t & en]gy & mu* ?\ght4 ,p :o live 9 ! c\ntry c keep clean m easily ?an city p4 ,?is is a good way to air & bru% y\r clo? g>m5ts3 ,hang !m on ! l9e1 & beat ) a clo!s beat]4 ,turn ! cuffs or coll>s & pockets inside out if possible4 ,bru% ) a :isk bru% c>efully all ov]4 ,%ake free f du/ & let !m hang 9 ! sun%9e4 ,!y w smell sweet & clean4 ,press+ suits & skirts4 ,a suit or skirt :i* is kept well press$ has a neat] appe>ance & keeps its %ape = a long] "t4 ,tailors d ?is "w2 b "o c le>n to d x at home1 if no tailor is ne>1 & c save ! money1 too1 if "o has ! "t4 ,x is a good g5]al rule to press on ! wrong side unless "o is us+ ! /eam+ process4 ,!n1 "o presses on ! "r side1 ov] damp5$ clo?4 ,wr+ ! clo?1 place ov] a portion ( ! g>m5t1 & press ) hot irons until ne>ly dry4 ,aft] /eam+ ! g>m5t all ov] on ! "r side1 turn to ! wrong side & press dry4 ,wool5 goods w m>k or %9e if press$ on ! "r side )\t a clo?4 ,?is press+ w add to ! life ( a suit4 ,good press bo>ds1 tailors' cu%ions1 & sleeve bo>ds help v mu* if "o has !m4 ,x is always wise to exam9e clo!s be=e press+ & to remove any spots :i* h accumulat$4 ,grease1 milk1 oil1 sug> are common spots :i* girls are apt to get on _! wool5 clo?+4 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls /udi$ h[ to remove ^!4 ,remov+ /a9s & spots4 ,wool5 goods :i* are soil$ & badly spott$ c be clean$ by wa%+ 9 w>m wat] ) soap solution or soap b>k4 ,"h are "s recipes = mak+ soap solution or soap b>k3 ,soap ,solution4 ,simm] 7d n boil7 "o cake ( :ite soap 9 two or ?ree qu>ts ( wat]4 ,soap ,b>k4 #a cup ( soap b>k or p[d] 9 ?ree or f\r qu>ts ( wat]4 ,let x /& two h\rs4 ,/ra9 & p\r into ! lukew>m wat] 9 :i* ! mat]ial is to be wa%$4 ,:y is lukew>m wat] us$8 ,wa% & r9se c>efully4 ,always use wat] ( same temp]ature = r9s+4 ,:at w\ld ! %ock ( cold wat] d8 ,ba? temp]ature is ab\t "r4 ,all wool5 g>m5ts %\ld be wa%$ & r9s$ c>efully 9 lukew>m wat] only4 ,"s day we %all try at s*ool4 ,good pure :ite soap is be/ = wool5s4 ,:y d wool5s %r9k 9 hot wat]8 ,:y are !y difficult to cleanse8 ,let u exam9e ! s*ool coats to see if we c f9d grease4 ,z a rule grease spots c be remov$ by wa%+ ) soap solution & lukew>m wat]4 ,wagon grease c be remov$ ) l>d2 !n wa% 9 w>m wat]4 ,grease may also be remov$ by dry clean+1 or *emical clean+ z x is call$4 ,! clean+ liquid may be b5z9e or e!r4 ,?is is a w>n+3 ,d-,a-,n-,g-,e-,r4 ,^! mu/ n be us$ ne> fire or an explosion w occur4 ,a bad accid5t occurr$ at ,pleasant ,valley 9 j ?is way :5 ,mrs4 ,l]oy 0 clean+ h] :ite gloves4 ,rub ! spot on ! wool g>m5t ) a clo? or sponge wet ) b5z9e4 ,! grease or fat spreads :5 dissolv$2 a piece ( blott+ pap] "u w help to absorb "s ( ! grease4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 to use fre% b5z9e z ea* rub removes "s ( ! fat1 :i* w spread if rubb$ 9 aga94 ,x is usually wise to use z a sponge a piece ( ! same mat]ial4 ,rub t[>ds ! c5t] s z to avoid a r+4 ,! spot clean$ w usually be light] ?an ! re/ ( ! g>m5t1 :i* is apt to be soil$4 ,sometimes by rubb+ ! surface ne> ! spot all ov]1 ! r+ w n be noticeable4 ,ano!r way to remove grease is to try a w>m iron & a blott+ pap]4 ,place pap] on "r side1 iron on ! wrong side ( ! clo?4 ,?is w remove "s grease spots1 z ! blott] absorbs x4 ,m>jorie ,all5 discov]$ t sug> spots c be remov$ ) w>m wat]4 ,dip clo? 9 wat] & wa% ?or\ghly & r9se be=e press+4 ,:at does ! w>m wat] d to ! sug>8 ,milk spots c be remov$ f "s mat]ials ) cold wat] & pure :ite soap4 ,:y cold8 ,ma*9e oil spots c be remov$ by wa%+ 9 cold wat] & pure :ite soap4 ,?is w remove mo/ ma*9e oil spots4 ,b>b>a ,oakes got "s oil on h] nightdress :ile mak+ x1 & remov$ ! oil easily 9 ?is way4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,miss ,alice ,blair4 ,,fig4 #ie4--,:i* way d y arrange clo!s 9 y\r closet8 ,^! simple rules w help e girl to be neat4 ,let u see h[ _m g>m5ts y c clean at home aft] y h le>n$ to bru%1 clean1 & press "o at s*ool4 ,protect+ clo!s4 ,m>jorie's c\s9 takes good c>e ( h] clo?+ :ile x is 9 use4 ,:5 %e works ab\t ! h\se %e always we>s an apron4 ,d y8 ,?is saves a great deal4 ,y "k h[ to make "s attractive ones4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #if4--;,a useful cov] to protect y\r be/ dress4 ,:5 %e removes h] clo?+ x is n ?r[n 9 a heap1 b is hung up on skirt or coat hang]s4 ,!y are v *eap or "o c make !m4 ,b>rel /aves or ev5 rolls ( newspap]1 roll$ securely & cov]$ may be us$ z coat hang]s1 a cord or ribbon may be ti$ at ! c5t]4 ,nails betwe5 two po9ts 9 a closet w keep ! b&s ( skirts ext5d$1 :5 loops are sew$ to ! b&s4 ,m>jorie's c\s9 always airs h] clo!s at night 7,fig4 #ef71 & :5 necess>y wa%es h] %ields & hangs !m up to dry4 ,_m girls d n realize h[ necess>y ?is is4 ,! odor ( p]spiration is n neat & is (f5sive to o!rs4 ,if "o wa%es "o's self c>efully ) w>m wat] 9 :i* borax has be5 dissolv$ ?is odor w n be noticeable4 ,m>jorie notic$ t h] c\s9 has cov]s ov] h] good clo!s 7,fig4 #if74 ,?is saves a great deal4 ,also %e is p>ticul> ab\t sew+ buttons on h] %oes1 & braid on h] skirt :5 x is torn4 ,%e also wa%es ! yokes ( h] dresses & sometimes h] own %irt wai/s4 ,%e is go+ to tea* ,m>jorie to d ?is4 ,"s day we %all le>n at s*ool4 ,d y "k t ,m>jorie discov]$ t ! p at ! summ] bo>d+ h\ses ne> h difficulty 9 hav+ _! da9ty %irt wai/s c>efully laund]$4 ,%e is go+ to practice dur+ ! w9t] & next summ] %e w e>n "s money 9 t way4 ,x is a good idea4 ,p]haps "s day %e may h a laundry ( h] own1 if %e is a good manag] & c h help to "w ) h]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ig4--;,c\s9 ,ann ?9ks ab\t ^! ?+s4 ,c\s9 ,ann told ,m>jorie t ea* w9t] %e is p>ticul> ab\t buy+ a pair ( rubb]s4 ,%e f9ds !y save h] %oes because !y prev5t ! dampness & wet f rott+ ! ?read ( ! %oes4 ,%e is p>ticul> ab\t hav+ h] heels /raight4 ,c\s9 ,ann believes t _m girls lose good positions because !y are n clean & neat ab\t _! p]sonal appe>ance4 ,run ov] heels are n neat4 ,ann is c>eful ab\t hav+ h] %oes resol$ :5 necess>y1 & s l5g!ns _! life4 ,%e we>s an old pair ( %oes on ra9y days ) h] rubb]s4 ,ann kn[s t wet feet are dang]\s4 ,"o may n feel ! results at once1 b sometime ! effect on heal? w be felt4 ,next lesson let u le>n h[ to keep our clo?+ d>n$4 ,y may br+ any g>m5t or t[el or o!r piece ( h\sehold l95 :i* has a te>1 & we %all le>n to d>n x4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,c>ry "s ( y\r clo!s to ! back y>d4 ,bru% !m1 & hang !m 9 ! sun%9e4 #b4 ,try at home to press y\r wool skirt4 ,/eam x2 x is n difficult to d4 #c4 ,d y "k ( any o!r way besides ^? ,c\s9 ,ann tri$1 ( keep+ y\r clo!s clean s z to prev5t !m f gett+ spott$8 #d4 ,d y n ?9k t kn[+ h[ to laund] %irt wai/s c>efully w\ld be a good way to e>n money :5 ! summ] bo>d]s come to y\r t[n8 ,,lesson #b ,,le>n+ ,,to ,,d>n ,,/raight ,,te>s ,:at ?reads ( ! clo? are torn1 9 a squ>e te>8 ,9 a /raight te>8 ,h[ c we replace ^! ?reads & prev5t ! article f te>+ fur!r8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ih4--,^! te>s run 9 diff]5t directions4 ,:i* k9d ( a te> w y h to d>n 9 y\r dress8 ,!re is always a collection ( g>m5ts ne$+ repairs 9 any home :]e !re are boys & girls4 ,:at a help x w be to "m to h "s "o :o c d>n "s ( ! te>s4 ,mrs4 ,ald5 0 v glad t ,flor5ce 0 le>n+ to d>n1 = %e has s _m ?+s to pat* & d>n = h] family4 ,h[ _m diff]5t k9ds ( te>s h be5 br\ght to-day8 ,yes1 "h is a /raight te> on ?is napk92 yes1 two /raight te>s4 ,:o c tell :i* ?reads h be5 torn 9 ?is fir/ te>8 ,f9d ! selv$ge2 ! te> runs across ! selv$ge4 ,9 ! second /raight te>1 ! te> runs up & d[n ) ! selv$ge1 or w>p4 ,:i* ?reads h be5 torn8 ,"h is a g>m5t ) a squ>e corn] te>4 ,john ,ald5 tore 8 ov]alls climb+ ov] ! b>b$ wire f5ce4 ,9 ?is te> :i* ?reads h be5 torn8 ,s we see t 9 "s te>s1 ! w>p is torn2 9 o!rs1 ! fill+ ?reads2 & 9 o!rs1 l ! squ>e te>1 bo? w>p & fill+ ?reads4 ,n[ d>n+ means putt+ back ! ?reads :i* h be5 worn or torn away4 ,miss ,james told h] class x is v useful to keep "s black & :ite wa% net 9 ! m5d+ basket4 ,a little piece ba/$ "u ! worn or torn place to be d>n$ is a great help2 = x ren=ces ! weak place & makes x la/ long]4 ,x is put on ! wrong side ( ! article to be d>n$4 ,! picture 7,fig4 #ih7 %[s two /raight te>s3 a slant+ "o1 & also a squ>e corn] te>4 ,ev]yone kn[s h[ to make ! runn+ /it*4 ,d>n+ is f9e runn+4 ,beg9 )\t a knot & a little beyond ! te> = /r5g?4 ,fill 9 ! miss+ ?read ) r[s ( /it*es close toge!r4 ,! /it*es %\ld ext5d f> en\gh ea* side ( ! te> to take 9 ! worn "p also4 ,9 turn+ at ! end ( ea* r[1 leave a t9y loop4 ,:y8 ,d n leave a v l>ge "o1 b simply "o l>ge en\gh to all[ = /ret*+ & pull+ 9 wa%+4 ,9 pass+ ov] ! ?reads at ! torn place1 try to make ! /it*es hold d[n ! ?reads4 ,9 f9i%+ ext5d ! r[s beyond ! te> z at ! beg9n+4 ,ei!r a w>p or wo( /raight te> is m5d$ 9 ?is way4 ,a squ>e te> is a comb9ation ( ! two4 ,at ! corn] !re w !n be bo? w>p & fill+ ?reads & a d\ble d>n l a weave4 ,c y see f ! picture h[ ?is w look8 ,! ?read %\ld mat* z ne>ly z possible4 ,sometimes horsehair or human hair makes a good d>n+ ?read :5 "o does n wi% ! d>n to %[1 or split silk ?read or ,no4 #aej cotton4 ,ravel+s ( ! same clo? are sometimes us$4 ,! size ( ! ne$le w dep5d on ! f95ess ( ! clo? to be d>n$4 ,no4 #h is "r = ord9>y d>n+4 ,:]e c y use ?is d>n8 ,is x ! same z /ock+ d>n8 ,next lesson e "o is to br+ f home a /ock+1 :ite1 br[n1 or black4 ,c y m5d "o at s*ool to surprise "m or fa!r or bro!r8 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls did4 ,mr4 ,all5 said ,m>jorie d>n$ 8 socks s well t he c\ldn't ev5 feel ! d>n :5 he walk$6 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,%[ "m h[ y c m5d a /raight te> by m5d+ "o = h] at home4 ,p]haps !re is a /raight te> 9 h] dress1 or 9 a t[el or napk94 #b4 ,:y is x wor? :ile to m5d x8 ,,lesson #c ,,d>n+ ,,/ock+s ,we all h /ock+s to d>n ea* week z !y come f ! laundry4 ,d y m5d ! small holes at once1 or let !m gr[ l>g]8 ,x is always a sav+ ( "t & en]gy to take c>e ( ! small holes2 small ones gr[ to be l>g] ones if "o is n c>eful4 ,x pays to m5d at once4 ,we w le>n h[ to m5d /ock+s4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,h4 ,br9ton ,co4 ,,fig4 #ii4--,! knitt+ ma*9e4 ,caps1 /ock+s1 & und]we> are made on simil> ma*9es4 ,/ock+ d>n+ diff]s f d>n+ ! /raight or ! squ>e te>1 because1 z a rule1 !re is a hole 9 ! /ock+4 ,! /ock+ mat]ial is worn away1 & x is necess>y to replace x ) a small piece ( weav+ ov] & "u ( w>p & fill+4 ,a pat* or extra piece ( mat]ial might be plac$ "u ! hole1 b t w\ld be uncom=table2 s a wov5 piece is put 94 ,! /ock+ is made ( knitt$ mat]ial call$ /ock9et1 n ( wov5 clo?4 ,h[ d !y diff]8 ,c y ?9k ( o!r articles ( clo?+ made ( knitt$ mat]ial8 ,yes1 mitt5s1 sweat]s1 caps1 und]we>4 ,h y ev] se5 a knitt+ ma*9e8 ,"h is a picture 7,fig4 #ii7 ( "o %[+ h[ ! /ock+ is knitt$ 9 ! factory to-day on ! knitt+ ma*9es4 ,9 weav+ !re are two ?reads4 ,:at are !y8 ,9 knitt+ !re is only "o ?read2 j l gr&mo!r's knitt+ ( ! /ock+ r\nd & r\nd z ! t9y loops are =m$4 ,h y ev] torn y\r /ock+ 9 a loop & _h x run "r d[n ! :ole leg ( ! /ock+8 ,b>b>a ,oakes _h ?is exp]i5ce4 ,t %[s h[ ! t9y loops are made4 ,if "o cat*es ! loop1 ! ravel+ is prev5t$4 ,?is is h[ we %all d>n our /ock+s4 ,use s+le or d\ble d>n+ ?read1 accord+ to ! f95ess ( ! /ock+1 & a d>n+ ne$le4 ,c y ?read ! big eye by d\bl+ ! end ( ! ?read8 ,beg9 on ! wrong side )\t a knot1 ab\t ( an in* to ! "r ( ! hole4 ,! /it*es are ! same f9e runn+ z = o!r d>n+1 & ! r[s made close toge!r4 ,look at ! picture 7,fig4 #ajj74 ,! d>n is ab\t diamond %ape :5 f9i%$4 ,:y8 ,?is prev5ts ! /ra9 f com+ on any "o r[ ( loops4 ,a t9y loop is left at ea* r[ 9 turn+1 z /ock9et is a /ret*y mat]ial4 ,?is d>n+ %\ld run ! same way z ! loops1 up & d[n ! mat]ial4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 at ! hole4 ,if possible1 pass ! ne$le ?r\gh ! loop at ! edge ( ! hole & ext5d ! ?read across ! hole to ! loop opposite1 & cont9ue ) ! d>n+ /it*4 ,:5 ! w>p is all 91 !re w be r[s ( ?reads close toge!r ext5d+ across ! hole4 ,9 f9e d>n+ or :5 "o is d>n+ sweat]s or gloves1 all ! loops at ! edge ( ! hole %\ld be c>efully caught4 ,= ev]yday /ock+ d>n+1 "o does n h "t to /op = e loop at ! edge ( ! hole4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajj4--;,a1 ! wrong side ( ! /ock+ d>n putt+ 9 ! fir/ set ( ?reads2 ,b1 weav+ 9 ! second ?read4 ,z we said above1 ! hole is to be fill$ 9 ) a piece ( wov5 mat]ial :i* we are mak+4 ,! w>p 7,fig4 #ajj ,a7 has all be5 put 92 !n we mu/ g ov] "p ( ! d>n & fill 9 ! cross ?reads1 :i* are wov5 ov] & "u ! w>p ?reads :i* h be5 put 9 at ! hole4 ,! runn+ /it* is us$4 ,! sket* 7,fig4 #ajj ,b7 %[s ! portion ( ! d>n to be cov]$ ) ! runn+ /it*es1 & j :]e ! weav+ is to be done4 ,y w notice t ! fir/ r[ ( crosswise runn+ /it*es is plac$ a little bel[ ! hole1 & ! la/ r[ ext5ds a little above4 ,:y8 ,at ! hole "o mu/ g ov] & "u ! w>p1 alt]nately1 z "o does 9 weav+4 ,?is is all done ) "o ?read :i* is c>ri$ 9 f9e runn+ /it*es to ! hole1 !n passes ov] & "u ! w>p ?reads1 & cont9ues ) runn+ /it*es at ! o!r side ( d>n2 turns ) a t9y loop1 cont9ues ) runn+1 & aga9 passes ov] & "u ! w>p alt]nately4 ,?is is cont9u$ until ! d>n is complet$4 ,sometimes !re are t9y rips 9 ! seams ( /ock+s4 ,!y c be ov]h&$ c>efully on ! wrong side1 tak+ up only ! v edges ( ! seam s z n to make a ridge4 ,if ! long ladd]s :i* sometimes come 9 /ock+s are n too wide1 !y c be ov]h&$ toge!r on ! wrong side2 or1 if "o has "t1 !y c be d>n$ z a hole4 ,z a rule ?is is a wa/e ( "t4 ,a worn place ne> a hole %\ld be includ$ 9 a d>n1 or :]e sev]al small holes are close toge!r1 d>n 9 "o l>ge d>n4 ,:at k9d ( /ock+s d y buy8 ,m>jorie's ,c\s9 ,ann says x does n pay h] to buy v *eap /ock+s1 at #ae c5ts a pair1 or v ?9 ones ei!r4 ,%e has discov]$ t if %e pays #be c5ts a pair or a doll> = ?ree pairs ( a good make1 & c>es = !m1 wat*+ :5 ! t9y holes appe>1 t %e c make six pairs la/ a :ole ye>4 ,ann says t ! girls :o buy ! v ?9 transp>5t /ock+s are buy+ /ock+s all ! "t2 & !n1 too1 !y are (t5 ridicul$ by o!rs4 ,"o is n well dress$ :5 "o is conspicu\s & :5 "o's clo?+ is notic$ & criticiz$ 9 su* a way4 ,next lesson y may br+ a /ock+ :i* has be5 d>n$ at home4 ,cr$it w be giv5 = ?is4 ,d y ?9k y c d>n "o all alone8 ,x is n difficult if "o foll[s c>efully ! description above4 ,y may also br+ a l95 t[el or napk9 or tableclo? :i* has a hole4 ,we %all le>n h[ to pat* ! holes4 ,! ,pleasant ,valley pupils _h a d>n+ conte/4 ,mrs4 ,all5 0 invit$ to be ! judge4 ,:o d y suppose made ! be/-look+ /ock+ d>n8 ,mollie ,/>k won4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,d>n "o ( fa!r's socks or baby si/]'s /ock+ or any o!r y c at home4 ,surprise "m by %[+ h] h[ well y c d>n1 aft] y\r s*ool practice4 ,,lesson #d ,,pat*+ ,,saves ,,clo?+ ,,& ,,o!r ,,articles ,"s holes are too l>ge to d>n2 !y are1 !n1 repair$ ) a pat*4 ,w\ld y l to le>n h[ to pat*8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aja4--,! pat* z x %\ld look on ! wrong side 9 process ( hemm+4 ,h[ to make ! hemm$ pat*4 ,a pat* is a piece ( clo? cut l>g] ?an ! worn hole & us$ to cov] ! hole4 ,! hemm$ pat* is ! simple/ & mo/ useful4 ,x is sew$ ) ! hemm+ /it* & s call$ ! hemm$ pat* because all ! r\gh edges ( ! pat* are turn$ "u & hemm$ flat4 ,?is k9d ( pat* is us$ on g>m5ts or h\sehold articles :i* are to be laund]$4 ,x is a good "o = t[els1 napk9s1 or tableclo?s1 & = und]we>4 ,p]haps y h "s tableclo?s1 napk9s1 & t[els :i* h be5 br\ght to pat* to-day4 ,miss ,james br\ght "s = h] class4 ,= pat*es "s girls br\ght pieces z ne>ly l ! t[els & napk9s :i* !y br\ght z possible4 ,x is bett] to pat* ) mat]ial :i* has be5 us$1 ?an ) new mat]ial4 ,:y8 ,! hemm$ pat* is always put on ! wrong side4 ,cut a squ>e or oblong piece :i* w cov] ! hole1 & ext5d beyond ! worn "p4 ,all[ -in* extra all ar\nd = turn+s4 ,crease ?is pat* diagonally4 ,f9d ! c5t] ( ! hole ( ! worn article4 ,crease x 9 diagonal l9es = a squ>e or oblong1 accord+ to %ape ( place to be pat*$4 ,p9 pat* on wrong side s t diagonal creases ( pat* fall on diagonal creases ( ! article4 ,turn to "r side4 ,cut ! hole1 remov+ all fray$ edges until x is a true squ>e or oblong1 measur+ f ! c5t] :]e diagonal creases cross4 ,aft] cutt+1 make a t9y slant+ cut f to -in* at ea* corn] on ! diagonal creases ( ! article1 & turn "u ^! cut edges4 ,p9 & ba/e c>efully4 ,turn to wrong side4 ,hold to light to see if ! pat* is ! same wid? on all sides ( ! hole4 ,trim if necess>y4 ,remove p9s1 flatt51 turn edges ( ! pat* by opposites1 & ba/e4 ,! hemm+ /it* is !n us$ on bo? ! "r & wrong sides ( ! pat* to hold ! edges4 ,?is pat* is laund]$ flat & neat4 ,= next lesson we %all /udy ab\t ! table l95 & t[els4 ,we "k t "s ( !m are l954 ,:]e does l95 come f8 ,d y "k :e!r x is a plant or an animal8 ,!re are sev]al ref]5ce books on ! %elf4 ,see h[ mu* y c discov] ab\t ?is secret4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajb4--;,hemm+ ! pat* 9 place1 on ! "r side4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,practice mak+ a hemm$ pat* at home4 ,"m w surely h a tableclo? or an und]g>m5t or an apron :i* ne$s a pat*4 ,try to keep ! pat* v flat4 #b4 ,see h[ mu* y c le>n ab\t l95 be=e next lesson4 ,,lesson #e ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,h[ ,,l95 ,,is ,,gr[n ,:at is ! /ory ( our l95 mat]ials8 ,:]e d !y come f8 ,w\ld y l to "k8 ,mollie's ,/>k's ,uncle ,john has j come to ,pleasant ,valley4 ,he is h] fa!r's bro!r & has be5 9 ! l95 bus9ess 9 ,irel&4 ,he told ! ,girls' ,league ! o!r ev5+ ab\t flax & ab\t h[ x is made into clo?4 ,?is is ! /ory he told4 ,x has also be5 pr9t$ 9 ! ,pleasant ,valley ,news4 ,h y read x8 ,:]e does flax gr[8 ,irel& is a cool c\ntry1 & flax is a plant :i* gr[s well 9 cool places4 ,cotton1 we h le>n$1 is gr[n 9 w>m c\ntries4 ,d y "k t ,russia produces ab\t half ( ! _w's supply ( flax8 ,f9d y\r map ( ,europe1 & see if y c locate all ^! c\ntries4 ,! ,russian flax is r inf]ior 9 quality4 ,irel& & ,belgium produce ! be/ quality ( fib]4 ,flax is also gr[n 9 ,holl& & ,france1 & 9 ,egypt & ,italy4 ,! ,unit$ ,/ates gr[s "s flax2 b x is a r co>se fib] us$ = cra% & = bagg+4 ,! ,unit$ ,/ates gr[s v little flax & only = ! co>s] purposes4 ,?is is = ! reason t labor is v exp5sive2 & flax1 l silk1 ne$s mu* c>e if we$$ & gr[n = fib]4 ,! c>e ( ! worms makes silk exp5sive4 ,flax gr[n = se$ or co>se purposes does n require s mu* c>e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig #ajc4--,! flax plant gr[s #bj to #dj in*es 9 height4 ,:at is ! flax plant8 ,p]haps y\r tea*] w buy "s flax se$ :i* y c plant 9 ! s*ool g>d54 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls did1 & x grew q tall4 ,!n y c really see h[ ! gr[+ plant looks4 ,y\r tea*] w h "s dry flax to %[ y4 ,d y "k h[ a wav+ field ( :eat or oats looks8 ,flax is plant$ ?ickly :5 x is gr[n = its fib]4 ,x comes up /raight l ! :eat & does n bran*4 ,:5 x is plant$ = its se$1 x is n plant$ s ?ickly because x mu/ h m room to bran* & be> se$4 ,flaxse$ is us$ = _m purposes4 ,flaxse$1 or l9se$1 oil is us$ = pa9ts & v>ni%es1 & ev5 = food1 9 "s c\ntries4 ,l cotton se$1 ! dry cake1 or meal1 left is a valuable food = cattle4 ,has "m ev] us$ ! oil or ! meal = any?+ at home8 ,! flax plant z x gr[s is f #bj to #dj in*es 9 height4 ,x has lovely little blue fl[]s on ! /ems :i* bran* at ! top4 ,uncle ,john knew a little girl at ,pleasant ,valley :o ?\ght ! flax came f ! little br[n se$ pods on top1 j z ! cotton comes f ! se$ pod1 or boll4 ,x does n2 = ! flax fib] is ! "p ( ! long /em :i* gr[s j inside ( ! outside woody portion4 ,s1 y see flax fib]s c be f #bj to #dj in*es long1 accord+ to ! height ( ! plant4 ,! wond]ful "p ( ! /ory is h[ ! fib]s are remov$ f ! long /ems4 ,h[ is flax gr[n8 ,flax requires mu* h& labor 9 its c>e :ile gr[+4 ,! wom5 & *ildr5 9 ,europe we$ x & c>e = x1 on _! h&s & knees4 ,:5 x is full gr[n & ! fl[]s h come & gone1 ! t9y se$ pods gr[ :]e ! fl[]s h fall51 j l ! se$ pods y\r peonies or poppies gr[4 ,be=e ! se$s are q ripe1 & :ile ! /alks are br[ni% yell[1 ! flax is ready to be pull$4 ,x is n cut l :eat ) ! reap] & ga!r$ into bundles1 b mu/ be pull$ up by ! roots4 ,?is is done 9 cle> wea!r1 by h&4 ,! pull$ flax is laid on ! gr\nd ) ! roots toge!r & ! /alks p>allel4 ,! /alks are !n b\nd some?+ l ! :eat1 & /ack$ 9 /ooks4 ,y h (t5 se5 oats or :eat s /ack$4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,unit$ ,/ates ,dep>tm5t ( ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #ajd4--,! /ooks ( flax4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,spey] ,s*ool1 ,new ,york4 ,,fig4 #aje4--,?is little girl is rippl+ flax by h& at s*ool4 ,c y see ! se$s8 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,woolman ,mc,gowan1 ,textiles4 ,,fig4 #ajf4--;,flax rett+ at ,c\rtrai1 ,belgium4 ,:at is rippl+ & rett+ flax8 ,! next process is to remove all ! se$s )\t injur+ ! long fib]s4 ,! ma*9e = ?is looks l a comb made ( iron tee? set 9 a wood5 frame4 ,?is frame is plac$ on a clo? s z to collect all ! se$ z x falls4 ,?is is call$ rippl+1 & is done 9 ! fields4 ,! se$ pods are drawn across ! tee? :i* remove ! se$s4 ,!n ! flax is b\nd 9 bundles = ! next process1 :i* is rett+4 ,?is is really ! mo/ important "p ( all1 = x means rott+ ! outside woody portion ( ! /em s z to get ! flax fib]4 ,?is woody portion is ( no value4 ,! flax is sometimes rett$ by dew2 j left on ! gr\nd at night4 ,y "k h[ wet ! grass c be e>ly 9 ! morn+4 ,s ! dew1 ra91 air1 & sun%9e decompose ! outside woody b>k4 ,?is is a v sl[ process4 ,m (t5 flax is rett$ 9 wat]4 ,! bundles are plac$ 9 crates or boxes1 & left = ab\t two weeks "u wat]4 ,if y gr[ "s flax1 y c ret x also & remove ! fib]4 ,d y "k :at takes place :5 ! woody "p decomposes8 ,x is call$ f]m5tation4 ,:at h y le>n$ ab\t f]m5tation8 7,see ,food & ,heal?47 ,aft] rett+1 ! flax is spread to dry 9 ! fields & is !n ready = ! next process1 call$ break+4 ,j ?9k ( h[ _m ?+s h be5 done to ! fib]s ( our l95 t[els & napk9s & dresses1 :i* we use e day4 ,jane ,smi? said %e nev] realiz$ be=e h[ _m h&s prep>e our clo?+ & o!r mat]ials4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,spey] ,s*ool1 ,new ,york4 ,,fig4 #ajg4--;,flax break+ done by h&4 ,:at is meant by break+ flax8 ,break+ means remov+ ! dry wood portion :i* has be5 decompos$ by ! rett+4 ,?is is sometimes done by means ( a h& break4 ,9 ! picture 7,fig4 #ajg7 y w see a little girl ( ,pleasant ,valley break+ flax by h&4 ,sometimes ! woody "p is brok5 away by pass+ ! flax betwe5 roll]s ( a ma*9e :i* is run by p[]4 ,^! p[] mills are call$ scut*+ mills2 scut*+ means clean+ & break+4 ,aft] ?is process ! flax lies 9 long bundles ( p>allel fib]s1 some?+ l a girl's hair z x is ready to be braid$4 ,! flax v>ies 9 color2 sometimes x is gray or ( a gre5i% t9t1 & sometimes pale yell[4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajh4--;,flax fib]s magnifi$4 ,if y h a microscope or a glass at s*ool1 exam9e ! flax fib]4 ,see h[ x looks1 r\gh & woody4 ,x also looks some?+ l ! silk fib]s1 /raight4 ,x has t9y m>k+s or spots call$ nodes4 ,flax is pr9cipally cellulose4 ,d y "k :at cellulose means8 ,look x up 9 ! diction>y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aji4--,! mummies ( ,egypt are f\nd wrapp$ 9 l95 clo? made f flax long ago4 ,s y see t ! long fib]s are fre$ f ! /em ( ! flax plant & are ready = ! manufactur] to sp9 into y>n to be wov5 into clo?1 or to make x into cord1 rope1 tw9e1 lace1 or ?read = _m useful purposes4 ,isn't ?is an int]e/+ /ory8 ,flax cultivation is "o ( ! mo/ anci5t indu/ries4 ,?9k h[ v useful x is1 bo? = fib] & = se$4 ,x has be5 gr[n = at lea/ #ejjj ye>s 9 ,egypt & 9 ,assyria4 ,d y rememb] read+ ab\t ! anci5t mummies :i* h be5 f\nd wrapp$ 9 l95 9 ! tombs ( ,egypt8 ,9 ! ,bible1 *apt] xlii ( ! book ( ,g5esis1 we are told t ,ph>aoh array$ ,joseph 9 ve/ures ( f9e l954 ,d y "k ( any o!r ,bible ref]5ces :i* tell ( ! use ( l95 9 anci5t times8 ,h y ev] he>d ( ! ,swiss lake dwell]s8 ,p]haps y\r tea*] w tell y ab\t !m1 or y c look x up 9 ! encyclop$ia4 ,!y too us$ l95 long ago1 = pieces h be5 f\nd & are 9 ! museums 9 ,switz]l&4 ,next lesson we %all make a l>ge *>t = ! s*oolroom1 :i* w tell ! /ory ( flax4 ,y may br+ any?+ :i* y ?9k w help to illu/rate t /ory4 ,we %all also m\nt on ! *>t ! mo/ common l95 mat]ials :i* we use 9 our homes4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,exam9e a flax fib] ) a microscope or a magnify+ glass4 ,:at d y see8 #b4 ,look up ref]5ces :i* prove ! age ( flax culture4 #c4 ,p]haps "s "o ne> y\r s*ool has be5 9 ! l95 bus9ess 9 ,irel&4 ,p]haps he w come to ! s*ool & tell ! boys & girls ab\t x4 ,try to f9d "s "o4 ,,lesson #f ,,common ,,l95 ,,mat]ials ,,are ,,id5tifi$ ,c we le>n to id5tify at lea/ eight ( ! common l95 mat]ials8 ,to-day we %all /udy ab\t ! diff]5t l95 mat]ials1 & !n see :at we h to m\nt on our s*ool *>t4 ,if y pref]1 y may make a book ( l95 mat]ials l ! cotton & silk4 ,let u divide ! pieces :i* h be5 br\ght to s*ool into two piles3 ! ?91 & ! ?ick] ones4 ,we h m ( ! ?ick ones4 ,yes1 we all "k ! heavy co>se l95 is call$ ,russian cra%4 ,we us$ x = our por* cu%ions or cov]s4 ,x comes f #ah to #cf in*es 9 wid? & co/s f #ae c5ts a y>d up to #ge c5ts sometimes4 ,we "k x is us$ = dresses1 & sometimes = t[el+ & uphol/]y uses4 ,x is unblea*$ 9 color4 ,?is wide sample is l95 %eet+4 ,our great-gr&mo!rs always _h l95 %eets ( flax :i* !y grew1 spun1 & wove1 because long ago cotton 0 n gr[n4 ,"s ( ! ,pleasant ,valley girls saw ^! %eets :i* ,gr&mo!r ,all5 made4 ,%eet+ comes 9 sev]al wid?s1 & co/s ab\t #a p] y>d up4 ,cotton %eet+ is *eap]4 ,! "o ?9 "o is h&k]*ief l954 ,x co/s f #fj c5ts to #b4jj p] y>d4 ,:at k9d ( a weave is x8 ,:at is x us$ =8 ,! o!r ?9 piece is call$ bati/e4 ,x1 too1 is us$ = wai/s & dress l95s1 & x is f9e & %e]4 ,x c be us$ = h&k]*iefs too4 ,x co/s ab\t #a4jj p] y>d up1 accord+ to ! f95ess1 & is #a y>d or m wide4 ,bati/e is made ( cotton1 also1 & is !n *eap]4 ,! weave ( ?is piece is diff]5t4 ,y h a cotton sample ( ! same weave4 ,yes1 x is call$ bird's-eye patt]n4 ,x is us$ = t[el+ & co/s ab\t #cj c5ts p] y>d1 #bd in*es wide4 ,"h is ano!r piece us$ also = t[el+4 ,y all "k its "n4 ,huckaback is correct4 ,we h also cotton huckaback1 & "s huckaback made ( half l95 & half cotton4 ,x is wov5 9 a patt]n :i* absorbs easily4 ,! fill+ ?read %[s m on ! surface ?an ! w>p ?reads4 ,x is wov5 #ah in*es & wid]1 & co/s #ae c5ts up4 ,e "o kn[s ?is "o4 ,our tableclo?s & napk9s are ( damask4 ,x is a lovely mat]ial made 9 beautiful patt]ns4 ,sometimes x is all l95 & sometimes a mixture4 ,!re is also cotton damask = table napk9s & clo?s4 ,x is mu* *eap]4 ,! clo?s are wov5 #a y>d wide or wid]1 & = damask t[els f #af to #cf in*es4 ,"o c sp5d a great deal = beautiful damask t[els & napk9s4 ,?is pla9 co>se l95 is call$ but*]s' l951 because x we>s v well & but*]s sometimes h _! aprons made ( x4 ,x is us$1 too1 = dress skirts1 & is v satisfactory4 ,x is wov5 f #bg to #dd in*es 9 wid? & co/s f #dj c5ts to #a4ej p] y>d4 ,! heavy /iff piece is a l95 canvas & is us$ by tailors = ! int]l9+ ( cuffs & coll>s ( coats4 ,x co/s #be c5ts p] y>d & is #bg to #cf in*es wide4 ,suppose our *>t is #bd #bj in*es4 ,p]haps a c>dbo>d or cov] ( an old box w d if y\r tea*] has no?+ else4 ,put two holes ne> ! top 9 ! middle ( ! #bj in*es side & run a cord ?r\gh = hang+4 ,at "o edge d[n "o side place ! common l95 mat]ials ) _! names & uses1 etc4 ,let u see :at ! girls h br\ght4 ,"h is a bottle ( l9se$ oil4 ,yes1 & "s flax se$s4 ,jane has br\ght a l95 coll>4 ,"h is a small *9a doll wrapp$ z a mummy4 ,m>jorie's gr&mo!r has s5t "s flax :i* %e grew & prep>$ h]self1 & a piece ( an old h&-wov5 t[el :i* %e made :5 a girl4 ,& "h is "s h&-spun flax6 ,notice h[ r\gh x looks4 ,we h1 also1 "s cord & tw9e & "s l95 ?read4 ,d y "k t ,pat]son1 ,new ,j]sey1 :]e ,m>jorie's ,c\s9 ,ann works 9 ! silk mill1 is also a great c5t] = l95 ?read manufacture8 ,?read is made by twi/+ f9e y>ns toge!r4 ,! twi/+ makes !m /rong4 ,!y are !n dy$ or blea*$ :ite4 ,mu* ( our l95 ?read is unblea*$ 9 color4 ,:y8 ,suppose we draw a picture ( ! flax /alk & fl[] on our *>t & fa/5 "s ( ! s*ool-gr[n flax to x4 ,all ! o!r ?+s c be arrang$ & fa/5$ too1 by pun*+ holes 9 ! c>dbo>d & ty+ !m on ) cord4 ,:at an int]e/+ /ory x makes4 ,p]haps ! *ildr5 ( ! l[] classes w\ld l to he> ! /ory told by "o ( ! sev5? grade girls "s morn+4 ,next lesson y may br+ any table l95 or t[els :i* are /a9$2 & we %all le>n h[ to remove ! /a9s4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,draw a picture ( ! flax plant1 & color ! fl[]s ) y\r crayons4 #b4 ,prep>e ! *>t tell+ ! /ory ( flax4 #c4 ,look up ! /ory ( h[ l95 ?read is prep>$4 #d4 ,see h[ _m l95 mat]ials y c f9d at home4 ,,lesson #g ,,remov+ ,,common ,,/a9s ,,f ,,table ,,l95 ,"s ( ! common /a9s "o f9ds on table l95 are c(fee1 tea1 fruit1 ru/1 or grass /a9s4 ,d y "k h[ to remove !m8 ,:5 %\ld /a9s be remov$8 ,a good h\sekeep] always looks ov] ! clo?+ & h\sehold l95s be=e putt+ !m to soak4 ,mrs4 ,all5 says %e usually does ?is on ,monday4 ,d y "k :y8 ,%e sp5ds ?is day gett+ ready = wa% day4 ,%e bakes & prep>es c]ta9 foods = h] family = two days2 & s ! "w is easi] on ,tuesday & ,w$nesday1 :5 %e wa%es & irons4 ,fruit1 c(fee1 or tea /a9s on l95 %\ld be remov$ z soon aft] ! /a9 appe>s z possible4 ,if ?is is n done1 !n c]ta9ly ! /a9s mu/ be remov$ be=e putt+ ! l95 into ! tub4 ,:ite clo!s are boil$4 ,:at w ?is d to ! /a9s if !y are n remov$8 ,h[ c /a9s be remov$8 ,let u try to remove ^! spots "o at a "t4 ,i ?9k we h six or sev5 diff]5t k9ds on ! articles :i* h be5 br\ght to s*ool to-day4 ,y\r tea*] w %[ y h[ to foll[ ! directions4 ,c(fee & tea /a9s are ! mo/ common on table l954 ,to remove1 wa% 9 lukew>m wat]1 & !n dip 9 a solution ( wa%+ soda1 & r9se v c>efully until all soda is remov$4 7,wa%+ soda solution is made ( "o p\nd ( wa%+ soda to "o gallon ( wat]4 ,?is c be kept 9 glass j>s & us$ :5 occasion dem&s47 ,tea /a9s are easily remov$ by bru%+ ! spot ) glyc]9e & !n wa%+ c>efully 9 w>m wat] to remove ! grease4 ,rubb+ ! spot ) ! b[l ( a spoon is a good way to put on ! glyc]9e4 ,fruit /a9s are also common4 ,an easy way to remove !m is to /ret* ! fabric1 if x is :ite1 ov] a b[l & p\r boil+ wat] f a height1 ?r\gh ! spot4 ,on :ite wool or silk1 lukew>m wat] is sometimes all t is necess>y2 or lukew>m wat] & a little borax4 ,if ! fruit /a9s are on color$ g>m5ts1 !y are difficult to remove on acc\nt ( remov+ ! color also4 ,if ! article is ( mu* value1 consult a pr(essional dy] if possible4 ,x is wise to exp]im5t on ! mat]ial on ano!r "p ( ! g>m5t1 z ! inside ( a hem or fac+4 ,make a simil> spot & try to remove ) diff]5t me?ods4 ,(t5 "o c discov] a way1 ?r\gh exp]im5t+4 ,ru/ /a9s (t5 appe> on table l95 or :ite clo?+4 ,to remove1 wet ! spot & apply a few drops ( oxalic acid or salts ( lemon or cream ( t>t> solution1 & wa% ?or\ghly4 ,on color$ or wool goods ( good quality1 "o mu/ decide :e!r "o pref]s ! /a9 or ! color remov$4 ,wat] & lemon juice w g5]ally remove ! spot1 b may take ! color too4 ,c>e is necess>y = colors4 ,grass /a9s are also common4 ,if ! /a9s are fre%1 cold wat] w usually remove !m4 ,:5 on :ite goods or mat]ial :i* _c be wa%$1 alcohol may be us$4 ,:5 color w /& x1 dy$ fabrics :i* are grass-/a9$ c be wa%$ ) wat] & a little ammonia1 foll[$ by w>m soap solution & c>eful r9s+4 ,"h is a g>m5t :i* has bo? ink & blood /a9s on x4 ,m>jorie mu/ h cut h] f+]4 ,blood /a9s :5 fre% are easily remov$ ) lukew>m1 n hot wat]1 & a little ammonia4 ,:5 on color$ silk1 wa% c>efully ) lukew>m wat] only4 ,! ink /a9s are m difficult1 because ! composition ( inks v>ies4 ,wa% at once 9 cold wat]2 ?is (t5 removes "s spots4 ,s\r milk or sev]al r9s+s 9 sweet milk may cause ! spot to disappe>4 ,!n wa% 9 w>m wat] & soap to remove ! grease4 ,if ?is does n remove x1 try a pa/e made ( />*1 salt1 & lemon juice except = colors4 ,if ?is w n1 try ,javelle wat]4 ,?is c be obta9$ at a drug /ore4 ,wa% ! spot 9 ! ,javelle wat]1 b r9se v quickly & c>efully4 ,repeat until ! spot disappe>s4 ,^! directions are = :ite mat]ials only4 ,h[ _m w\ld l to try to remove "s spots at home1 be=e next lesson8 ,y may report y\r successes or failures1 & we %all try to le>n ! reasons = !m4 ,next lesson we %all le>n to wa% & iron ?is table l954 ,x w be well to keep x at s*ool until next lesson4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,h[ _m spots h y be5 able to remove8 ,tell ( y\r successes or failures4 #b4 ,see if "m or gr&mo!r has any bett] recipes ?an y h le>n$ = spots4 ,,lesson #h ,,le>n+ ,,to ,,wa% ,,& ,,iron ,,table ,,l95 ,,or ,,b$ ,,l95 ,we h /udi$ _m ?+s ab\t cleanl9ess1 & we all "k h[ mu* cleanl9ess ( clo?+ & h\sehold l95 adds to our com=t4 ,we h le>n$ t sometimes we c we> our und]clo!s )\t iron+ & t t[els c be wa%$ & dri$ & w smell sweet & clean ev5 if n iron$4 ,table l951 ?\gh1 mu/ be wa%$ & boil$ & iron$ to look well4 ,our lesson to-day is ab\t h[ to d ?is4 ,! l951 z well z ! cotton1 are1 z y "k1 vegetable fib]s4 ,!y are /rong & able to resi/ heat & ! friction f rubb+4 ,!y h resi/ance = *emicals also4 ,s cotton & l95 may be boil$1 />*$1 & iron$ ) hot irons because ! fib]s are /rong4 ,!y may also be treat$ ) acids ( a dilute nature :5 necess>y to remove spots1 z we h le>n$4 ,= ! usual grease spots on ! family tableclo?s1 soak ! clo? 9 soda wat] to remove grease 7"o cup ( soda--! dissolv$ solution--to a pail ( wat]1 see page #ahf74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aaj4--,mrs4 ,/>k wa%+ out ( doors on a w>m day4 ,?is is ! old way4 ,%e has j b\ght a wa%+ ma*9e4 ,! processes = wa%+ & iron+4 ,if ! /a9s h be5 remov$ f ! table l951 x c !n be soak$4 ,soak+ helps to loos5 ! dirt :5 soap is add$ be=e ! soak+4 ,x is !n unnecess>y to rub !m z mu*1 & s mat]ials are sav$ f we>4 ,^! are ! processes = wa%+ & iron+3 soak+1 wa%+1 r9s+1 boil+1 r9s+1 blu+1 />*+1 hang+1 dry+1 spr9kl+1 pull+1 fold+1 iron+4 #a4 ,soak+4 ,soak ! table or b$ l95s ab\t #a-;h\rs 9 cold or lukew>m wat]4 ,soap is really n necess>y z ! l95 is n v dirty4 ,all /a9s %\ld h be5 previ\sly remov$4 #b4 ,wa%+4 ,wa% ) soap on bo? sides1 rubb+ on clo!s bo>d or 9 wa%+ ma*9e4 ,use hot wat]4 #c4 ,r9s+4 ,r9se & soap aga9 to be plac$ 9 ! boil]4 ,! dirt is c>ri$ away by ?is r9s+4 #d4 ,boil+4 ,put ! soap$ articles 9 cle> cold wat]4 ,boil briskly = five m9utes4 ,add en\gh soap to keep a suds :ile boil+2 save small pieces = ?is purpose4 ,/ir clo!s & press ) a /ick4 ,remove f boil]1 aft] boil+ actively = five m9utes4 ,put 9 clean hot wat]1 !n 9 cold4 ,r9se once or twice aga9 ?or\ghly be=e blu+4 #e4 ,blu+4 ,make ! blue wat] f "s good blue4 ,d n make x too deep4 ,te/ on a small doily4 ,/ir ! blue be=e ea* article is dipp$1 s x may n appe> /reak$ on ! clo!s4 ,if articles are v yell[ x may be necess>y to let !m /& 9 ! blue = a little :ile4 ,if n yell[1 dip two or ?ree times4 ,! next process is />*+2 b x is n z a rule necess>y to />* napk9s1 tableclo?s1 or b$ l95s4 #f4 ,hang+4 ,hang v /raight aft] /ret*+4 ,d n p9 at corn]s4 ,hang ( ! napk9 or tableclo? ov] ! l9e4 #g4 ,spr9kl+4 ,table l95 mu/ be spr9kl$ ev5ly4 ,sometimes x c be tak5 f ! l9e :5 half dry1 & ! process ( spr9kl+ omitt$4 #h4 ,iron+4 ,l95 %\ld be iron$ damp & until dry4 ,?is makes ! patt]n /& out & gives a %9e & gloss to ! l954 ,?is takes ! place ( />*4 #i4 ,fold+4 ,iron napk9s p>tly dry on wrong side2 !n turn to "r side1 & iron dry4 ,fold edges ev5ly4 ,9 ! l5g?wise fold d n fold q to end1 z 9 ! f9al fold ! napk91 h&k]*ief1 tableclo?1 or %eets w appe> unev5 at ! edges4 ,fold ! tableclo?1 or napk9s ) selv$ges toge!r4 ,tableclo?s may be fold$ ) ?ree1 or f\r1 long creases4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,try to wa% & iron ! napk9s = "m4 #b4 ,try to wa% & iron "s t[els or pill[cases4 ,is ! process diff]5t8 #c4 ,:y is x unnecess>y to iron "s clo!s if "o is v busy4 ,c y give a good reason :y x is hygi5ic n to iron !m4 ,,lesson #i ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,! ,,manufacture ,,( ,,l95 ,,y>n ,,into ,,clo? ,to-day we are go+ to /udy aga9 ab\t our l95 tableclo?s & napk9s1 & le>n h[ ! flax fib] is made into clo? aft] x has be5 clean$ at ! scut*+ mill4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aaa4--,! flax :eel4 ,comb+ & sp9n+ flax4 ,uncle ,john divid$ 8 /ory 9 two p>ts1 & told ! ,pleasant ,valley ,girls' ,league ab\t ! manufacture ( flax z well z ab\t its gr[?4 ,! scut*$ flax is deliv]$ to ! manufactur]4 ,he mu/ fir/ sp9 ! flax into y>n be=e x c be wov5 into clo?4 ,! flax fib]s measure f #bj to #ce in*es 9 l5g?4 ,h[ are !y to be made into "o cont9u\s piece = sp9n+8 ,! pictures 7,figs4 #aab & #aac7 w give a v good idea4 ,long ago gr&mo!r or great-gr&mo!r spun ! y>n = ! l95 %eets on ! flax :eel4 ,m>jorie's gr&mo!r s5t h] old flax :eel to s*ool = ! girls to see4 ,! flax is "h on ! di/aff4 ,if y hav5't a :eel at y\r s*ool1 look at ! picture 7,fig4 #aaa74 ,! woman is hold+ ! flax fib]s :i* come f ! di/aff2 &1 z h] foot turns ! :eel & ! flax 9 h] f+]s is f$ to ! sp9dle1 x is twi/$4 ,sp9n+ ( flax is a v old inv5tion4 ,x 0 once done ) j a sp9dle l ! woman has 9 ! picture on page #ga 7,fig4 #dd74 ,?is is ! secret ( h[ flax sp9n+ is done to-day4 ,! flax is op5$ at ! mill & grad$ accord+ to color & quality4 ,x is !n comb$4 ,?is process is call$ hackl+ 7,fig4 #aab74 ,x is sometimes done by h&1 & ! work] draws ! flax ov] ! iron tee? ( a comb4 ,! /raight5$ fib]s are left & are call$ l9e2 & ! comb$-out fib]s are call$ t[4 ,?is fir/ comb+ process is sometimes call$ r\gh+ in/ead ( hackl+4 ,! l9e is !n comb$ aga9 9 a big ma*9e :i* removes any loose t[4 ,t[ is (t5 put 9 a c>d+ ma*9e & made into y>n = co>s] purposes2 b ! long /raight l9e is us$ = ! bett] mat]ials4 ,! l9e1 aft] x is hackl$1 is plac$ on a spread bo>d2 & ! process is call$ spread+4 ,y c see 9 ! picture 7,fig4 #aac7 t ! bundles ( flax y>n are spread & ov]lapp$ z !y ent] ! ma*9e4 ,n[ y "k h[ ! y>n beg9s to be made ( cont9u\s l5g?4 ,! flax comes f ?is ma*9e 9 a rope & is some?+ l ! cotton rope or rov+ z x leaves ! c>d+ ma*9e2 b flax is br[n & /iff1 n s s(t z cotton4 ,c y f9d 9 ! picture 7,fig4 #aac7 ! cans ready to receive ! flax rov+s z !y come f ! spread+ ma*9e8 ,!y are at ! back ( ! ma*9e4 ,! rov+s are !n ready to be w\nd on spools & to be twi/$ to make !m /rong4 ,?is is done 9 ! same way z ! cotton4 ,! spools are put 9 at ! top ( ! ma*9e2 !y hold ! rov+s4 ,! rov+s pass ov] roll]s :i* draw out & twi/ & w9d ! y>n on ! spools bel[4 ,?is is call$ sp9n+4 7,fig4 #df %[s ! cotton sp9n+ ma*9es47 ,flax sp9n+ is some:at l ?is4 ,p]haps "s day y may be able to visit a flax mill & see ! sp9n+ frames1 z ! ma*9es are call$1 at "w4 ,uncle ,john says t y>ns are made ( co>se or ( v f9e grade1 accord+ to ! f95ess ( clo? desir$4 ,l95 ?read is made by twi/+ toge!r two or ?ree ( ! l95 y>ns4 ,look at ! l95 ?read & see if y c discov] two or ?ree4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,york ,/4 ,mills1 ,belfa/4 ,,fig4 #aab4--;,flax hackl+ done by ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,york ,/4 ,mills1 ,belfa/4 ,,fig4 #aac4--,spread+ flax to make x a cont9u\s l9e4 ,weav+ l954 ,aft] ! ?reads ( flax h be5 spun1 !y are w\nd on spools2 & ! spools are put 9 ! big spool hold] or sk>n 9 ord] to prep>e ! roll ( w>p ?reads = ! loom4 ,d y rememb] h[ ! cotton w>p 0 prep>$ & h[ ! weav+ 0 done8 ,uncle ,john says t 9 ,scotl& to-day mu* ( ! v f9e l95 is wov5 by h&2 b we "k t l95 weav+ by ma*9]y has be5 p]fect$ !re & t v beautiful mat]ials are produc$ on ! mod]n looms ) ! ,jacqu>d h>ness z x is call$1 to produce ! wond]ful designs4 ,f9e table damask is z beautiful z f9e silk4 ,! ,fr5*1 p]haps1 make ! mo/ beautiful designs = table l951 & ! ,scot* & ,iri% come next4 7,see page #abd = ,jacqu>d loom47 ,blea*+ l95 clo?4 ,uncle ,john says !re are _m ?+s to be done to ! l95 clo? aft] x is wov54 ,if we 7 to g to ,irel&1 we might ride = miles & see ! wov5 l95 clo? spread on ! grass 9 great l5g?s4 ,?is is call$ cr(t+ or grass blea*+4 ,d y rememb] h[ we said gr&mo!r us$ to blea* h] l958 ,did %e use a *emical8 ,:at did ! s\r milk :i* %e us$ d to h] l958 ,:at did ! oxyg5 d8 ,*emicals are sometimes us$ to-day 9 ! e>ly /ages be=e ! l95 is spread on ! grass4 ,uncle ,john says t f #bj-be p] c5t1 or ab\t 1 ( ! weight ( ! l95 is lo/ 9 blea*+4 ,l95 is sometimes blea*$ 9 ! ?read1 b m (t5 aft] x is wov54 ,f9i%+ l95 clo? = %ipp+4 ,aft] l95 clo? has be5 blea*$1 ,uncle ,john says x is ready to be f9i%$ = %ipp+ to ! m]*ants4 ,x is wa%$ by pass+ ! clo? ?r\gh a ma*9e call$ a rub-bo>d4 ,!n x is dri$ & pass$ ?r\gh a beetl+ ma*9e4 ,?is makes ! fib]s /& out4 ,!n x is press$ betwe5 roll]s to give x a smoo? surface4 ,cotton is sometimes f9i%$ by means ( ^! processes to look l l95 & be sold = l954 ,:5 ?is cotton mat]ial is wa%$1 ! f9i%+ we>s (f & x does n look l l954 ,is su* mat]ial *eap] or m exp5sive8 ,is x hone/ to sell cotton = l951 & to *eat ! buy]8 ,x is all "r if ! goods are label$4 ,next lesson we %all talk ab\t ! buy+ ( h\sehold l95s4 ,"o mu/ "k _m ?+s 9 ord] to pur*ase wisely4 ,d y see h[ a k ( h[ ?+s are made w help y1 too8 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,write a /ory ( two hundr$ words tell+ h[ flax is made into clo?4 #b4 ,h an exhibit ( articles br\ght f home1 %[+ diff]5t patt]ns ( l95 clo?4 #c4 ,p]haps !re may be a cord factory ne> = y to visit4 ,t[ is sometimes us$ 9 mak+ tw9e4 ,/udy h[ cord is made4 ,,lesson #aj ,a ,,talk ,,ab\t ,,buy+ ,,l95s ,h y ev] gone %opp+ ) "m8 ,!re are "s important ?+s to rememb] :5 buy+ table l95 or o!r h\sehold mat]ials4 ,:at are !y8 ,m>jorie goes ) h] "m once a ye> to buy h\sehold l95s4 ,?is is usually 9 ,janu>y1 :5 ! big %op 9 t[n has a sale4 ,la/ ,janu>y1 :5 ,m>jorie's "m 0 ill1 !y _h to ord] by mail4 ,! catalogue f ! %op describ$ fully1 & ,mrs4 ,all5 knew exactly :at to ask =2 s !y manag$ )\t go+ to t[n4 ,?is c be done if "o kn[s h[ & if ! /ore is a reliable "o4 ,^! are "s ( ! ?+s ,mrs4 ,all5 is tea*+ ,m>jorie4 ,"s day %e w wi% to buy = h] own home2 or1 if h] "m is ill aga91 %e c g alone4 ,x is always m satisfactory to see :at "o is buy+4 ,"h are "s ( ! po9ts to be notic$ 9 buy+3 #a4 ,! fir/ important ?+ to rememb] is to buy only :at "o ne$s4 ,"k ! %ops "o patronizes1 if possible1 & g or s5d to only reliable firms4 ,! reliable places are ! *eape/ 9 ! end4 ,"o le>ns1 too1 t "s ?+s are bett] at "o %op & "s at ano!r4 ,reliable /ores (t5 h sales1 b z a rule b>ga9s are n *eap4 ,rememb] no?+ is ev] giv5 away4 #b4 ,x is wise & *eap] to pur*ase "s new h\sehold l95 once ea* ye> ?an to wait & h x all we> out at once4 #c4 ,co/ is a good guide4 ,l95 is exp5sive4 ,if too *eap1 bew>e4 #d4 ,l95 is sometimes *eap5$ or adult]at$ ) cotton4 ,if ! /ore keep] sells x = union1 x is hone/2 if he calls x l951 & y pay l95 price1 x is di%one/4 ,ravel & untwi/ ! ends ( ! w>p & fill+ ?read4 ,cotton w be fuzzy1 l95 %\ld be long & lu/r\s4 ,r\nd ?reads ( l95 are be/4 ,! l95 ?reads appe> po9t$ at ! ends :5 sep>at$4 ,! all l95s made f ! t[ 7y h le>n$ :at t is7 are *eap] ?an ^? made f ! l9e4 ,:y8 ,!y w n la/ q s well4 ,wet ! l954 ,wat] spreads m rapidly on l95 ?an on cotton4 ,an old-fa%ion$ te/ 0 to moi/5 ) ! f+]4 ,if y h a sample ( l95 at home = te/+1 use a drop ( olive oil4 ,! oil makes ! l95 fib]s m transluc5t ?an ! cotton4 ,:y8 #e4 ,ano!r way to "k4 ,l95 feels cold] ?an cotton2 also x feels heavi] :5 cru%$ 9 ! h&4 #f4 ,notice ! f9i%4 ,is x full ( />* :i* c be pick$ (f8 ,if s1 aft] ! wa%+ y w h a loosely wov5 mat]ial )\t />*4 ,x is bett] to buy a s(t] l95 ?an "o fill$ /iff ) />* :i* w crack4 #g4 ,damask by ! y>d is slightly *eap] ?an by ! clo?4 ,"o doll> a y>d is a fair price4 ,table clo?s f #b to #c y>ds are a good size = a family ( six4 ,a clo? we>s ab\t z long z #a or #b doz5 napk9s4 ,! price ( "o doz5 napk9s ab\t equals ! co/ ( a clo?4 ,napk9s come 9 ?ree sizes3 1 #ag-bb in*es2 1 #bc-bg in*es2 1 #bi-ca in*es4 #h4 ,scot*1 ,fr5*1 & ,iri% l95s are ! be/ = quality1 beauty1 & v>iety ( patt]ns4 ,g]man damask is good2 b ,g]man patt]ns are p]haps ! lea/ attractive4 ,unblea*$ l95 w we> mu* long]1 is less exp5sive1 & is b\ght by _m h\sewives & blea*$ z us$4 #i4 ,= family t[els huckaback is ! mo/ s]viceable1 al?\gh damask is us$ a great deal4 ,l95 t[els v>y 9 price f #c4jj a doz5 up1 accord+ to size & quality4 ,di% t[els ( l95 cra% are v s]viceable4 #aj4 ,! microscope is ! only sure te/ = di/+ui%+ cotton & l95 fib]s4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,ask "m if %e kn[s any o!r me?ods ( judg+ good l954 #b4 ,:5 y g to t[n1 price "s tableclo?s & napk9s4 ,h[ mu* w a good clo? & napk9s co/8 ,,review ,,problems ,i4 ,plan a sy/ematic way ( look+ ov] y\r clo?+ & keep+ x 9 repair4 ,,ii4 ,h[ d y /ore y\r w9t] clo?+ = protection dur+ summ]8 ,y\r summ] clo!s dur+ w9t]8 ,,iii4 ,h[ does y\r k ( buy+ l95s help y 9 go+ %opp+ ) "m8 ,illu/ration ,,*apt] ,v ,,! ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,girls ,,le>n ,,to ,,make ,,m ,,g>m5ts ,w\ld y l to le>n to make "s useful g>m5ts8 ,p]haps1 !n1 y c help ) ! family sew+ & make "s useful g>m5ts = y\r si/] or "m4 ,"s day y may wi% to be a seam/ress or a dressmak] & to e>n money 9 t way4 ,b>b>a ,oakes says %e expects to d s4 ,n[ is ! "t to beg9 to le>n h[1 & lat] p]haps y may g to a dressmak+ s*ool4 ,b>b>a ,oakes & "s ( ! ,league girls h a class :i* meets once a week = in/ruction 9 gymna/ics & fancy danc+4 ,9 ! spr+ or e>ly summ] !y expect to give a dance outdoors4 ,a pageant w be prep>$ by "s ( ! memb]s ( ! ,mo!rs' ,club2 & ! dance is "p ( t pageant4 ,! pageant w picture ! hi/ory ( ,pleasant ,valley4 ,! ,mo!rs' ,club is plann+ to h all ! p :o w1 take "p4 ,h y ev] se5 a pageant8 ,x is a pleasant way to le>n hi/ory & to celebrate an int]e/+ local ev5t4 ,pageants h be5 held 9 _m p>ts ( ! ea/]n & we/]n /ates2 & 9 ,engl& !re h be5 _m pageants4 ,p]haps y c plan a pageant = y\r t[n4 ,:ile ! girls are practic+ _! danc+ & gymna/ics1 bloom]s w be v useful1 & ! girls h decid$ to le>n to make !m4 ,w\ld y l to le>n h[8 ,! bloom]s w be useful = s*ool gymna/ics1 too4 ,y c also make a middy bl\se & a skirt to we> ) !m1 s z to h ! :ole outfit4 ,,lesson #a ,,! ,,patt]n ,,( ,,! ,,bloom]s ,let u /udy ! patt]n :i* y\r tea*] has br\ght to s*ool4 ,y h le>n$ to read patt]ns4 ,y mu/ also calculate h[ mu* mat]ial to ord]1 & :at k9d4 ,let u op5 ! patt]n & /udy its p>ts4 ,yes1 ! long n>r[ /rips are = ! belt2 "s are = ! placket fac+s4 ,notice if ! dots indicate :]e ^! are to be plac$3 on a fold ( mat]ial or l5g?wise ( ! clo?4 ,!re is "o o!r piece4 ,x is ! leg2 s two mu/ be cut4 ,is x possible to cut two at ! same "t8 ,h[1 !n1 %\ld ! mat]ial be fold$8 ,notice ! p]=ations4 ,!y w help u to "k :i* "p ( ! patt]n is to be plac$ on ! w>p ( ! clo?4 ,h[ wide is ! wid? ( ! patt]n at ! wide/ "p8 ,if x is #cd in*es1 !n x w be easy to calculate h[ _m l5g?s to buy ( clo? #cf in*es wide4 ,measure ! l5g? ( ! patt]n & see if x is long en\gh = y to all[ = fullness at ! knee s t !re is "s to bl\se ov]4 ,if n1 h[ w y add to ! patt]n8 ,?is extra l5g? mu/ be all[$ 9 ord]+ ! mat]ial4 ,c y tell h[ mu* clo? to ord]8 ,see if y c calculate4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aad4--,! bloom]s & middy bl\se4 ,:at k9d ( mat]ial w y use8 ,"s ( ! ,pleasant ,valley girls wi% wool mat]ial because x w be w>m] = w9t] we>4 ,d>k blue or black s]ge is v durable1 is wa%able also1 & w %$ ! du/4 ,"h are "s samples4 ,sate5 is also a durable cotton mat]ial1 b x is n s w>m4 ,x is easi] = girls to h&le 9 mak+ ?an wool4 ,bloom]s c also be made f g+ham1 p]cale1 galatea1 or o!r cotton clo?4 ,:i* w y *oose8 ,%all we n write = "s samples ( ^! diff]5t mat]ials8 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls wrote & receiv$ !m 9 a few days4 ,p]haps y too are le>n+ h[ to ord] by mail :5 y are too f> away f t[n to g %opp+4 ,try to make all ! calculations to-day & to le>n all ab\t ! patt]n4 ,p9 ! pieces ( ! patt]n toge!r2 also try to hold !m up to y\r figure or ! girl next to y4 ,x helps "o to le>n :]e ! p>ts lie on ! body & to locate :]e ! seams w fall4 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls work$ 9 pairs & help$ ea* o!r ) ! cutt+1 fitt+1 & plann+4 ,?is is a good way :5 ea* girl does h] "p4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,op5 ! patt]n = ! bloom]s4 ,notice ! p>ts1 also ! p]=ations & directions4 #b4 ,calculate h[ mu* clo? w be necess>y = a pair ( bloom]s = y\rself4 #c4 ,br+ samples ( mat]ials suitable = bloom]s4 ,,lesson #b ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,:]e ,,wool ,,is ,,gr[n ,:ile y are wait+ = ! samples ( wool s]ges1 galatea1 & sate51 let u /udy ab\t wool4 ,wool is ! mo/ important textile fib]4 ,all girls %\ld "k ab\t x1 :e!r y w use wool or cotton = y\r bloom]s4 ,9 ! picture 7,fig4 #aae7 y w see a v peaceful sc5e4 ,! %eep are graz+ & /or+ up food & en]gy to be conv]t$ into food = u to eat & clo?+ = u to we>4 ,mr4 ,all5 has ov] a hundr$ %eep on 8 f>m4 ,h[ grateful we %\ld be to ! pati5t %eep4 ,?is animal fib] call$ wool is a v>iety ( hair1 & v>ies 9 f95ess4 ,! co>s] v>ieties are call$ hair4 ,hair is obta9$ f ! angora goat1 ! camel1 & alpaca4 ,p]haps y\r tea*] has a microscope4 ,look at ! fib]s "u ! glass4 ,y c see h[ hair diff]s f wool4 ,!re are t9y s]rations on ! wool surface :i* look l ! scales ( a p9e cone1 lapp+ "o ov] ! o!r4 ,?is is a wond]ful ?+ to see2 = x is on acc\nt ( ^! t9y s]rations :i* close up :5 9 hot wat] t "o mu/ be s c>eful ab\t laund]+ wool5s4 ,wool looks wavy 9 l5g?4 ,x is f9e & has a lu/]2 :ile hair has a smoo? surface & lies /raight4 ,illu/ration3 ,rosa ,bonheur4 ,,fig4 #aae4--,^! peaceful look+ %eep provide our wool clo?+4 ,h y ev] se5 %eep %e>$ ( _! wool8 ,p]haps x is done on y\r f>m4 ,%eep are usually %e>$ only once a ye>1 9 ,april or ,may4 ,if !re are only a few %eep1 x is easy to use ! h& %e>s l ^? 9 ! picture 7,fig4 #aag72 b :]e !re are _m %eep1 ! ma*9e clipp]s mu/ be us$4 ,^! clipp+ ma*9es c be run by h& or o!r p[]4 ,!y %e> close & save wool4 ,notice ! ma*9e :i* ! man 9 ! picture 7,fig4 #aah7 is us+2 x is j l ! "o ,mr4 ,all5 uses4 ,frank or ,john sometimes helps4 ,! coat+ ( wool f "o %eep is call$ a fleece4 ,on ! l>ge %eep ran*es ( ! ,we/ ! fleeces are ti$ into bundles1 & ^! bundles are put 9 sacks hold+ ab\t #djj p\nds to be %ipp$ to c]ta9 wool-pur*as+ c5t]s :]e ! buy]s exam9e ! wool & buy 9 quantities4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aaf4--,wool fib]s magnifi$4 ,:at d y "k ab\t ! %eep indu/ry8 ,our %eep indu/ry is v important4 ,! we/]n /ates1 ,montana1 ,idaho1 ,wyom+1 & ,oregon1 support ab\t #ch million %eep4 ,t is a l>ge family to %e> & fe$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aag4--,! h& %e>s4 ,o!r c\ntries gr[ %eep = clo?+ wools1 too4 ,au/ralia1 ,engl&1 ,s\? ,africa1 ,s\? ,am]ica1 ,spa91 & ,g]many all give mu* att5tion to %eep rais+4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,*icago ,flexible ,%aft ,co4 ,,fig4 #aah4--,%eep %e>+ by ma*9]y4 ,?is indu/ry is v old4 ,we read 9 ! ,bible t wool 0 us$ long ago & t ,k+ ,david ( ,israel wrote psalms z he t5d$ 8 %eep on ! hillside4 ,abel1 ! bro!r ( ,ca91 0 a keep] ( %eep4 ,c y f9d ^! /ories 9 ! ,bible8 ,writ]s ( _m ages tell ab\t wool--,pl9y1 ,hom]1 & ,virgil4 ,alex&] too1 :5 he j\rney$ to ,india 9 e>ly days1 saw beautiful wool5 %awls be+ made4 ,"s %eep give a bett] quality ( wool ?an o!rs4 ,! ,m]9o wool is ! v f9e/4 ,! camel furni%es a beautiful s(t fib]4 ,!n1 !re is ! angora goat ( ,asia ,m9or1 :i* provides u ) mohair4 ,?is is a lovely s(t fib] resembl+ silk4 ,c y f9d ?is c\ntry on y\r map8 ,look = ,p]u & = ,*ili4 ,! %eep !re furni% ! alpaca & llama wools4 ,"s wool fib]s are long1 & "s are q %ort4 ,! l5g? ( fib]1 or /aple z x is call$1 v>ies4 ,an av]age l5g? is #g or #h in*es4 ,h[ does ?is comp>e ) ! silk or l95 fib]8 ,is x z long z cotton8 ,! fib]s also v>y 9 /r5g? & lu/]1 f95ess1 s(tness1 & ela/icity4 ,:at d ^! words mean8 ,c y f9d !m 9 y\r diction>y8 ,! t9y s]rations on ! wool fib] _c be se5 ) ! nak$ eye4 ,!y are1 h[ev]1 v important2 = x is ?is *>act]i/ic ( wool :i* makes x felt1 &1 because ^! t9y s]rations int]lock1 x is possible to make ! f9e texture ( broadclo? & o!r f9e wool mat]ials4 ,we %all /udy h[ lat]4 ,d y ?9k we wi% ! t9y s]rations to int]lock :5 we wa% wool5 articles8 ,if !y d1 :at w happ5 to ! g>m5t8 ,d y "k h[ ?is c be prev5t$8 ,if y h %eep on y\r f>m or ne>1 w y br+ "s ( ! wool to s*ool4 ,x is dirty4 ,p]haps y c wa% x at s*ool1 & see h[ s(t & f9e & lu/r\s x is4 ,y may also be able to dye "s4 ,! c5t] ( ! wool fib] is r por\s1 & ?is enables ! fib] to take up dye easily4 ,! wool f "s %eep f>ms v>ies on acc\nt ( ! diff]5ces 9 climate1 soil1 & bre$ ( %eep4 ,! %eep ( s\!rn ,engl& produce %ort & f9e wool2 :ile 9 ! nor?1 :]e x is cold]1 ! wool is /rong] & co>s]4 ,wools f ,saxony & ,silesia are v f9e4 ,! ,engli% & ,au/ralian wools are ( sev]al qualities4 ,! long wools come f ,l9coln & ,leice/]%ire1 & ! %ort] f ,suffolk & ,%rop%ire4 ,c y f9d ^! places on y\r map ( ,engl&8 ,! long co>se wools are us$ = c>pets & = knitt+1 because !y are s /rong4 ,! %ort wools us$ = clo?+ are ab\t #c to #d in*es 9 l5g?4 ,! long wools1 ab\t #aj in*es 9 l5g?1 are call$ comb+ wools & are us$ = mat]ials :i* are loosely wov5 l s]ges1 homespuns1 & o!rs4 ,next lesson we %all /udy our samples ( wool5 mat]ials4 ,br+ all ! scraps ( diff]5t k9ds :i* y c contribute4 ,put !m 9 ! surprise box4 ,we %all le>n ! names ( ! mo/ common ones4 ,w y make a sample book = ^! too8 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,f9d on ! map ! pr9cipal c\ntries produc+ wool4 #b4 ,if y\r tea*] has a microscope1 comp>e wool & hair4 ,h[ d !y diff]8 #c4 ,:y d wool5 g>m5ts %r9k :5 wa%$ 9 hot wat]8 #d4 ,:y is wool ! mo/ important fib] ( comm]ce8 #e4 ,tell "s ( ! uses ( long co>se wools2 ( ! f9] wools4 ,,lesson #c ,,"s ,,( ,,! ,,mo/ ,,common ,,mat]ials ,,made ,,f ,,wool ,!re are _m mat]ials made f wool4 ,let u le>n to-day ab\t ^? :i* are us$ mo/ commonly4 ,p]haps "s "o 9 ! class w sort ! pieces 9 ! surprise box4 ,mollie ,/>k sort$ ^? at ,pleasant ,valley ,s*ool4 ,d n sort accord+ to color1 b place !m 9 ?ree piles4 ,we h ! ?ick1 close mat]ials1 :i* are heavy & firm4 ,!n we h ! ?91 %e] ones4 ,9 ! ?ird pile1 place ! m$ium weight ones :i* look /rong & are wiry b n s closely wov5 & firm z ^? 9 ! fir/ pile4 ,%all we le>n ab\t "s ( ea* k9d8 ,let u see :at we h 9 ! ?ird pile ( wiry1 m loosely wov5 mat]ials4 ,fir/ we h ! s]ges4 ,"h are sev]al pieces4 ,"s are f9e ) ! twill$ weave1 & o!rs are twill$ b ! weave is co>s]4 ,!y are v s]viceable & are suitable = bloom]s1 or = dress fabrics4 ,"h is a sample ( a plaid s]ge4 ,m>jorie ,all5 _h su* a dress la/ w9t]4 ,x is possible to buy pla9 colors too4 ,s]ges are wov5 q wide1 f #db to #ed in*es1 & co/ f #ge c5ts to #c p] y>d4 ,*eviots are v simil> to s]ges 9 price & wid?1 b are some:at heavi] 9 appe>ance4 ,! surface ( "s is r r\gh] ?an s]ge1 al?\gh !re are smoo? *eviots too4 ,h "s samples ( s]ges be5 s5t f ! /ore8 ,y mu/ exam9e ^!1 too1 to see if y w select "o = y\r bloom]s4 ,?is co>se "o 9 ! same pile is a homespun1 & ?is is a twe$4 ,!y are bo? r\gh1 wiry1 loosely wov51 & made ( r co>se y>n4 ,!y are r op5 9 texture & 7 bo? 9 old5 times spun & wov5 by h&1 b are n[ made by ma*9]y4 ,twe$ gets its "n f a place 9 ,scotl&4 ,^! mat]ials are v s]viceable1 especially = r\gh we> = suit+s1 coats1 or dress goods4 ,! color or patt]n is n always cle>ly def9$1 because ! y>n ( :i* x is wov5 is mix$ 9 color4 ,homespuns are some:at *eap] ?an twe$s4 ,!y co/ f #a to #c p] y>d1 & are wov5 f #db to #ej in*es wide4 ,twe$s are a little wid]1 #eb to #ed in*es1 & co/ f #b to #d p] y>d4 ,!re are f\r samples 9 ?is pile1 n q s heavy4 ,!y are ca%m]e1 *allie1 albatross1 & h5rietta4 ,h y ev] he>d ^! names be=e8 ,!y are all common wool mat]ials4 ,!y are (t5 us$ = girls' s*ool dresses1 = wrapp]s1 & = baby we>4 ,!y are all s(t] ?an s]ges4 ,ca%m]e & h5rietta resemble ea* o!r4 ,!y bo? h a twill$ weave4 ,h5rietta 0 orig9ally wov5 ) a silk w>p4 ,"o c buy silk w>p h5rietta to-day4 ,gr&mo!r ,/>k has "o4 ,is !re a sample 9 y\r box8 ,ca%m]e is also s(t1 & ! f9] qualities are made f hair ( ! ca%m]e goat4 ,ca%m]e is wov5 #cf to #de in*es 9 wid? & c be b\ght = f #ge c5ts to #a4be p] y>d4 ,h5rietta is ab\t ! same wid? & price1 except :5 x has silk w>p4 ,!n x is m exp5sive4 ,*allie & albatross are ab\t ! same weight4 ,i am sure y h all _h a pretty *allie dress sometime4 ,*allies are figur$2--sometimes ! patt]n is wov5 9 & sometimes pr9t$4 ,x is made sometimes ( a mixture ( cotton & wool1 or silk & wool2 b n[ *allies c be b\ght 9 all cotton too z well z 9 all wool4 ,!y come ab\t #cj in*es wide & co/ f #ej to #ge c5ts p] y>d4 ,albatross is also s(t & a fancy weave4 ,x too is us$ = dress goods & co/s ab\t ! same z *allie1 #ej c5ts to #a p] y>d4 ,x is wov5 f #ch to #de in*es 9 wid?4 ,let u n[ exam9e "s ( ! heavy ones 9 ! fir/ pile4 ,yes1 e "o kn[s ! "n ( ! heavy f9e piece4 ,x is broadclo? & is us$ = coats & dress goods4 ,!re are also "s light] weights ( broadclo? ) a smoo? sat9y f9i%4 ,!y are call$ lady's clo?4 ,a v good broadclo? is exp5sive1 & co/s ab\t #e p] y>d4 ,"o c buy x = #a4ej1 b z a rule x is n v satisfactory "u #b p] y>d4 ,broadclo? is closely wov51 smoo?1 & s(t 9 f9i%4 ,x is f #ej to #eh in*es 9 wid?4 ,has any "o at y\r h\se a dress or coat made f ?is8 ,exam9e x & ask h[ durable x has be54 ,fa!r's w9t] ov]coat 0 p]haps made ( melton1 or cov]t clo?4 ,mr4 ,all5 _h su* a coat la/ ye>4 ,exam9e ! samples4 ,!y are bo? heavy4 ,melton is ab\t ! same wid? z broadclo?1 #eb in*es1 & co/s also f #b to #d p] y>d = a good quality4 ,x is us$ = suits1 ov]coats1 & heavy g>m5ts4 ,?is is a /&>d mat]ial & is usually d>k blue or black4 ,uni=ms are (t5 made f x4 ,cov]t clo? is1 also1 us$ = ov]coats & suits4 ,x is heavy1 b diff]s f ! smoo? surface ( broadclo?4 ,x is a heavy twill$ clo?4 ,felt & flannel are bo? 9 ?is heavy pile1 al?\gh !re are "s lightweight flannels4 ,felt is n wov51 b is compress$1 s t ! wool fib]s are matt$ toge!r 9 a flat mass4 ,x is made #bd to #ej in*es 9 wid? & co/s f #hj c5ts to #a4ej p] y>d4 ,i am sure y all "k its use4 ,s*ool p5nants are made f x1 & s are "s table cov]s4 ,flannel is wov54 ,x is f9i%$ ) a s(t surface :i* is slightly napp$4 ,:at does t mean8 ,x is a r loosely wov5 fabric1 & is us$ = _m purposes4 ,c y tell "s8 ,yes1 petticoats1 baby g>m5ts1 wai/s1 dress+ sacques1 %irts = m54 ,x co/s f #ej c5ts to #a p] y>d4 ,sometimes x is made ( a comb9ation ( cotton & wool1 in/ead ( all wool4 ,x v>ies 9 wid? f #bg to #cf in*es4 ,let u exam9e "s ( ! ?9 samples4 ,"h is "o :i* x is almo/ possible to see ?r\gh4 ,x is call$ voile & is ?9 & gauzy1 l veil+4 ,?is sample ne> is call$ nun's veil+4 ,x1 also1 has an op5 me% weave1 & is a common wool mat]ial4 ,!y are bo? us$ = dress goods1 & are made 9 solid colors4 ,!re are also "s pr9t$ voiles1 b !y are usually made ( cotton4 ,wool voile co/s f #a4be to #b p] y>d & is wov5 f #db to #de in*es wide2 :ile nun's veil+ is n>r[]1 #cf in*es wide1 & slightly less exp5sive1 f #ge c5ts to #a p] y>d4 ,"h are "s samples call$ etam9e & gr5ad9e4 ,!y are simil> to ! voiles1 ( op5 me% weave1 & are us$ pr9cipally = dress goods4 ,bunt+ is ano!r op5 me% weave4 ,we c]ta9ly all "k its use4 ,look at ! flag fly+ on y\r s*oolh\se4 ,bunt+ is ab\t #bd in*es 9 wid? & co/s ab\t #ce c5ts p] y>d4 ,x is sometimes made f mohair4 ,"h are ?ree samples3 "o call$ brilliant9e2 & ano!r1 alpaca2 ! ?ird1 mohair4 ,! brilliant9e & mohair d n feel z s(t z ! wool s]ges or ca%m]es1 b r m wiry4 ,!y are made f hair ( ! ,angora goat4 ,!y are s]viceable1 = !y bo? %$ du/ & we> well4 ,!y are us$ = dresses or du/ coats4 ,! ,alpaca is made f ! hair ( ! llama1 :i* is bright1 /rong1 & ela/ic4 ,all ( ^! mat]ials are bright & glossy4 ,"h are _! prices & wov5 wid?s3 ,alpaca #cf-de in*es #ge c5ts-#a p] y>d ,brilliant9e #ed in*es #ge c5ts-#b p] y>d ,mohair #dj-ed in*es #ej c5ts-#b p] y>d ,!re are /ill "s common wool mat]ials we h n m5tion$4 ,yes1 blankets4 ,!y are made ( cotton z well z ( wool1 or ( a mixture ( ! two4 ,!y co/ f #g to #cj p] pair if all wool4 ,! comb9ation ( cotton & wool c be _h = less4 ,c>pets are also made f wool y>n4 ,!y are wov5 s t ! y>n /&s up 9 loops1 & !n ^! loops are cut z 9 velvet c>pet4 ,9 ,brussels & +ra9 c>pets ! loops are n cut4 ,suppose y plan to arrange y\r sample books ) ?ree columns ( mat]ials made f wool4 ,y may h f\r or five columns if y pref] to put ! mohairs1 alpacas1 & brilliant9es by !mselves1 & ! blankets & c>pets 9 a sep>ate column4 ,t is ! way ! ,pleasant ,valley girls arrang$ !irs4 ,! fir/ w be ! heavy mat]ials2 !n ! m$ium weight1 & !n ! ?9 ones4 ,x is easy to sort & label !m n[ t y "k _! names1 uses1 & wid?s4 ,be=e v long we %all le>n ! /ory ( h[ ! wool fib] is made into s _m diff]5t k9ds ( clo?4 ,x is treat$ by diff]5t processes 9 manufacture 9 ord] to get a smoo? close f9i% or a loose wiry f9i%4 ,we %all le>n h[4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,tell ! diff]5ce betwe5 felt & flannel4 #b4 ,"n "s heavy wool mat]ials2 "s ( light] weight4 ,tell :]e y h se5 !m us$4 #c4 ,look up ! /ory ( h[ c>pets are made4 ,p]haps y w\ld l to /udy ab\t rugs1 too4 #d4 ,h[ d s]ges & broadclo?s diff] 9 appe>ance8 #e4 ,plan to collect mat]ials = ! five columns ( ! *>t4 ,m\nt ) prices & wid?s4 ,,lesson #d ,,mak+ ,a ,,pair ,,( ,,bloom]s ,let u beg9 to make ! bloom]s to-day4 ,fir/1 we %all lay ! patt]n4 ,"s girls h probably *os5 s]ge = _! bloom]s1 & "s h ord]$ galatea or sate54 ,! black or ! blue are s]viceable4 ,suppose y cut !m out to-day4 ,y h /udi$ ! patt]n :i* y\r tea*] _h4 ,p]haps "s girls w f9d x necess>y to add 9 l5g? or wid?4 ,y\r tea*] ord]$ ! patt]n by size1 accord+ to age4 #ad-ye> size 0 *os54 ,p]haps y mu/ make y\rs small] or l>g]4 ,"o patt]n c be adapt$ to ! :ole class4 ,?is y all[$ =1 9 ord]+ ! am\nt ( clo?4 ,let u place ! patt]n c>efully4 ,be sure t ! p]=ations :i* indicate l5g?wise ( ! mat]ial are plac$ on ! w>p4 ,c y cut out bo? legs at ! same "t8 ,c y tell :]e to place ! two /rips = ! b&s1 & = ! placket fac+s8 ,:i* way ( ! mat]ial w ! l5g? ( b& & fac+s be cut8 ,p9 c>efully 9 place & cut ) an ev5 motion4 ,x w p]haps be saf] to m>k ! not*es ) a p5cil or ) a :ite ?read4 ,girls sometimes =get--cut ! not*es too l>ge & spoil ! clo?4 ,!n we %all le>n to make a flat fell$ seam4 ,! two legs are to be sew$ up on ! "r side4 ,be v c>eful n to make bo? legs = ! same leg4 ,t is ! mi/ake ,m>jorie ,all5 made4 ,ba/e ! seam -in* wide4 ,!n /it* close to ! ba/+4 ,cut (f "o edge ( ?is seam to )9 -in* ( ! /it*+1 & lay ! o!r edge ( seam flat on ! clo? = ! fell4 ,turn 9 ! raw edge1 ba/e1 & /it* flat4 ,?is mu/ be done v c>efully1 = x is v easy to make a fell :i* is wr9kl$ & full in/ead ( flat 7see ,fig4 #aai74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aai4--,! flat fell1 %[+ ! ?ree /eps 9 mak+3 ,a1 ! seam /it*$2 ,b1 "o edge cut2 ,c1 ! turn+ ( ! o!r edge flat1 to be ba/$ & /it*$4 ,jo9 ! two legs toge!r at ! c5t] ) ! same flat fell4 ,be sure to h ! two leg seams come toge!r4 ,?is is important4 ,! placket op5+s lie ov] ! hip4 ,a s+le /rip may be us$ to b9d ?is op5+1 or a regul> placket may be made accord+ to y\r patt]n4 ,if a /rip is us$1 cut x l5g?wise ( ! clo? & "o in* long] ?an twice ! l5g? ( placket op5+4 ,if cut #b-;in*es wide1 ! f9i%$ fac+ w be "o in* 9 wid?4 ,place ! "r side ( ! /rip to ! "r side ( ! bloom]s4 ,ba/e -in* seams1 hold+ /rip all ar\nd ! placket op5+2 & !n /it*4 ,turn to ! wrong side1 turn 9 -in* & ba/e1 /it* aga94 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 at ! bottom ( ! placket op5+ to make ! seam ( suffici5t wid? s t x w n pull out4 ,at ! bottom ( ea* leg make a hem1 "o in* wide f9i%$4 ,/it*1 leav+ "o in* op54 ,?is is ! op5+ = ! ela/ic b&4 ,run 9 ! ela/ic be=e complet+ ! hem by h&4 ,n[ we are ready = ! b&s4 ,!re is "o = ! front & "o = ! back4 ,if y\r patt]n all[s = fullness1 ga!r to fit ( y\r wai/ measure4 ,x w be necess>y to measure y\r b&s & to all[ ! two in*es = lapp+ on ! back b&4 ,! front b& is usually %ort] ?an ! back4 ,fa/5 ! bloom]s s t !y lap t[>ds ! front4 ,to put on ! b&1 "w 9 ! same way z 9 putt+ on ! apron or petticoat b&1 except ! b& is turn$ to ! "r side = tailor f9i% on a g>m5t ) flat fells4 ,beg9 by plac+ ! "r side ( ! b& to ! inside ( ! front1 & also back ( ! bloom] portions4 ,ba/e1 /it*1 turn to ! "r side4 ,snaps may be us$1 or buttons & buttonholes1 = clos+4 ,buttonholes c also be plac$ at ! c5t] front & at ! back ( ! b&s1 if ! bloom]s are to be fa/5$ to a wai/4 ,h[ %all ! buttonholes be plac$ 9 cutt+ = fa/5+ 9 ?is way8 ,d y ?9k x is v difficult to make ! bloom]s8 ,! girls :o use s]ge c make ! placket fac+s & b&s ( silk or sate5 or "s l9+ mat]ial :i* w be ?9n]4 ,only ! mo/ exp]i5c$ ,pleasant ,valley girls us$ ! s]ge--^? :o _h sew$ at home4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,:at are ! important ?+s to rememb] 9 cutt+ out ! bloom]s8 #b4 ,h[ does ! b& ( ! bloom]s diff] f t put on ! petticoat8 ,,lesson #e ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,h[ ,,wool ,,is ,,made ,,into ,,clo? ,! ,pleasant ,valley boys & girls le>n$ h[ wool is made into clo? aft] x has be5 %e>$ f ! %eep4 ,w\ld y l to "k8 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,m4 ,j4 ,:ittall4 ,,fig4 #abj4--,wool sort+4 ,fir/1 ! wool is sort$4 ,wool sometimes travels a long di/ance be=e x is deliv]$ to ! manufactur]4 ,p]haps ! wool 9 y\r skirt 0 gr[n 9 ,engl& or 9 ,au/ralia1 & 0 %ipp$ 9 great sacks to ,new ,york1 & !n to ! manufactur]4 ,z x is %e>$ f ! %eep1 x is dirty & full ( burrs1 grease1 & p]spiration4 ,?is grease helps to pres]ve ! wool until ! manufactur] is ready to use x2 &1 al?\gh he buys ! wool by weight & pays = dirt & grease1 he pref]s to d s because ( ! pres]v+ qualities ( ! grease4 ,ev5 ( ! weight may be dirt & grease4 ,! fir/ ?+ ! manufactur] does is to sort ! wool to put ! good grades toge!r1 & to sep>ate !m f ! poor ones4 ,y rememb] ! fleece is ! :ole coat ( ! %eep4 ,"s p>ts ( ?is coat are bett] wool ?an o!rs2 especially ! "p f ! head & upp] "p ( ! back & sides4 ,ab\t sev5 diff]5t grades are sep>at$ = diff]5t purposes4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,m4 ,j4 ,:ittall4 ,,fig4 #aba4--,wool wa%+ or sc\r+4 ,! second process is wa%+ or sc\r+4 ,wool _c be c>d$ & spun until ! dirt & grease are remov$2 s ! next ?+ ! manufactur] does is to remove ! grease1 or yolk z x is call$1 by wa%+4 ,?is mu/ be done v c>efully s z n to break or injure ! wool4 ,p]haps y c br+ "s dirty wool f y\r f>m to s*ool & wa% x4 ,s(t soap is ! mo/ h>mless4 ,use a s(t wat] at a l[ temp]ature 7#abj ,f474 ,c y tell :y x mu/ be l[8 ,! wa%+ is done 9 a s]ies ( tanks4 ,y c see !m 9 ! picture 7,fig4 #aba74 ,! wet wool is swi%$ back & =? by means ( wood5 =ks :i* c>ry ! wool =w>d & beat x out4 ,!re are roll]s = pass+ ! wool f "o tank to ano!r4 ,!n ! wool mu/ be dri$4 ,?is is done 9 a k9d ( wr++ ma*9e call$ a hydro extractor4 ,!n x is beat5 into a fluffy mass4 ,!n a /range ?+ happ5s4 ,oil 9 wool is necess>y 9 ord] to help 9 ! sp9n+ & to keep x s(t & ela/ic1 s ! manufactur] mu/ return "s oil to ! wool1 aft] hav+ wa%$ x all out4 ,olive oil is us$4 ,if !re is any dirt or any burrs left 9 ! wool1 !y mu/ be remov$4 ,a ma*9e call$ a burr pick] is us$ to beat out ! dirt4 ,!n ! wool is bl5d$4 ,d y "k t ! wool skirt :i* y are we>+ may n be made ( all new wool8 ,wool c be us$ ov] & ov] aga94 ,old wool rags are pull$ ap>t & mix$ ) new wool4 ,if ?is did n happ51 ! manufactur] w\ld h to *>ge mu* m ?an y pay = s]ge or "s wool5 mat]ials1 z he w\ld h to use all new wool4 ,t is :y "s wool mat]ials are s exp5sive4 ,if only new wool 7 us$1 !re w\ld n be en\gh rais$ 9 ! _w to clo! ev]ybody4 ,! wool manufactur]1 !re=e1 bl5ds1 or mixes1 ! wool be=e x is s5t to ! c>d+ ma*9e4 ,9 bl5d+ he kn[s j :at color1 /yle1 & grade ( mat]ial he wi%es to produce1 & he grades accord+ly4 ,*eapness is "o ( ! pr9cipal reasons = bl5d+4 ,sometimes cotton or jute are mix$ 91 if ! manufactur] wi%es to produce a v *eap mat]ial :i* is n all wool4 ,w\ld y l to "k ! names ( "s ( ! all-wool sub/itutes :i* are us$ 9 r$uc+ ! co/ ( all-wool mat]ials8 ,m>jorie ,all5's gr&mo!r told h]1 & ,m>jorie told ! ,league girls4 ,%oddy is "o2 x is made f old rags1 l wool5 /ock+s1 flannels1 s(t und]we>2 mat]ials :i* h n be5 felt$ toge!r4 ,d y "k :at felt$ means8 ,! rags are wa%$1 gr\nd up1 & prep>$ to mix ) ! new wool4 ,mungo is ano!r que] "n :i* is giv5 to wool5 rags :i* h be5 felt$1 z broadclo? or m5's suit+s4 ,flocks is no?+ b du/ or wa/e f ! clipp+ ma*9es :5 clo? is %e>$ or clipp$ 9 f9i%+4 ,?is is us$ to fill 94 ,s y see no?+ is wa/$4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,m4 ,j4 ,:ittall4 ,,fig4 #abb4--,wool c>d+4 ,notice ! r\nd cyl9d]s4 ,! gauzy web is be+ deliv]$ into ! c 9 front ( ! c>d+ ma*9e4 ,! next process aft] bl5d+ is c>d+4 ,d y rememb] h[ cotton is c>d$8 ,long ago1 :5 ,m>jorie's gr&mo!r 0 "y1 wool 0 c>d$ by h&4 ,look at ! picture on page #gg & see h[ ,gr&mo!r ,all5 holds ! c>ds4 ,%e is prep>+ rolls ( wool = ! sp9n+ :eel4 ,! manufactur] mu/ prep>e ! sliv]s1 or rolls l ropes ( wool1 = ! sp9n+ frames z !y are call$ to-day4 ,! ma*9e :i* helps to produce ^! ropes is call$ ! c>d+ ma*9e4 ,x also helps to clean ! dirt f ! wool4 ,! picture 7,fig4 #abb7 w %[ y h[ ! wool c>d] looks4 ,!re is a c5t] cyl9d] & ar\nd x revolve small cyl9d]s4 ,!y are all cov]$ ) wire tee? :i* help to pull ! wool ap>t & to cleanse x4 ,if y 7 to /& be=e ! ma*9e1 y w\ld see a gauzy1 filmy %eet ( wool ! wid? ( ! long roll]s z x leaves ! ma*9e4 ,! wide gauzy mass is pull$ toge!r z x is drawn ?r\gh a hole at ! front ( ! c>d] & is deliv]$ or w\nd up 9 ! c1 j z we le>n$ ! cotton 0 deliv]$4 ,?is wool rov+ is !n w\nd on spools & is ready = sp9n+4 ,d y rememb] ! /ory ( h[ cotton is drawn out & twi/$ & w\nd on spools8 ,wool too mu/ be spun & made into y>n1 be=e y>n c be wov5 into clo?4 ,! manufactur] makes wool5 y>n & also wor/$ y>n4 ,d y "k ! diff]5ce8 ,we %all /udy 9 our next lesson ab\t !m4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,ask y\r gr&mo!r to tell y ab\t %eep rais+ on ! f>m1 :5 %e 0 a girl4 #b4 ,tell :y ! manufactur] mu/ bl5d old & new wool4 ,:at are ! names ( "s old rags ( wool us$ = ?is purpose8 #c4 ,tell h[ c>d+ 0 done 9 old5 times4 ,h[ is wool c>d+ done to-day8 ,:y is c>d+ an important process 9 ! manufacture ( clo? made f wool8 ,,lesson #f ,,"s ,,facts ,,to ,,rememb] ,,9 ,,pur*as+ ,,wool ,,clo?+ ,:y does ! manufactur] use wool5 y>n 9 weav+ "s mat]ials & wor/$ y>n = o!rs8 ,if "o kn[s ?is1 x w be a guide 9 pur*as+ wool mat]ials4 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls "k4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 wool5 & wor/$ y>ns4 ,be=e y c answ] ! "q = ?is lesson1 y mu/ le>n ! diff]5ce betwe5 wool5 & wor/$ y>ns4 ,wor/$ y>n is prep>$ f ! %eep giv+ long wool4 ,x is prep>$ by processes :i* comb x until all ! %ort fib]s are remov$ & only ! long /raight ones are us$4 ,?is comb+ prep>es ! long wool fib]s = sp9n+ s t !y lie p>allel4 ,?is makes an exp5sive y>n because s mu* is comb$ away4 ,?is f9e comb$ wor/$ y>n is us$ = high grade wor/$ mat]ials1 z "s *eviots or f9e twe$s1 & = und]we>4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,m4 ,j4 ,:ittall4 ,,fig4 #abc4--,wool comb+ = high grade mat]ials4 ,!re is mu* wa/e4 ,wool5 y>n is n comb$ to remove ! %ort fib]s4 ,x is1 in/ead1 c>d$ a great deal s t ! wool fib]s are well mix$ & ! s]rations ( ! t9y fib]s arrang$ s t !y w int]lock1 :5 put 9 wat] ( high temp]ature1 & ! gelat9\s scales are op5$ up4 ,wool5 y>n is wov5 into broadclo?s & meltons4 ,aft] ! weav+ ! clo? is put into vats :]e ! temp]ature op5s up ! s]rations & ! scales int]lock1 & make a close1 smoo? piece ( clo?4 ,?is is call$ full+4 ,isn't ?is int]e/+8 ,d y see :y ! manufactur] uses wor/$ in/ead ( wool5 y>n = mak+ und]we>8 ,if wor/$ y>n 7 us$ = mak+ broadclo?1 !re w\ld n be ! same close f9i%4 ,! wor/$ y>n is comb$ & ! fib]s are n 9 position to int]lock z 9 ! wool5 y>n 7,fig4 #abd74 ,c y answ] ! "q n[ :y wor/$ y>n is us$ sometimes & wool5 at o!rs8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abd4--,?is %[s ! diff]5ce 9 ! sliv]s ( wool & wor/$ y>n4 ,a is ! wool5 y>n1 well mix$2 ,b is ! wor/$ y>n1 well comb$4 ,aft] ! y>n has be5 spun1 x is wov5 into clo? j z cotton is prep>$ & wov54 ,wool5 y>n is fuzzy2 clo? made f x is wov5 loosely & !n x is put into vats & %runk5 or full$ until ! clo? is compact1 z broadclo?4 ,wor/$ y>n :5 made into clo? is %runk5 v little or n at all4 ,x is wov5 z x w appe>4 ,beautiful homespuns & wor/$ suit+s are ! result4 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,m4 ,j4 ,:ittall4 ,,fig4 #abe4--,! sp9n+ ( wool into y>n4 ,_m fabrics made ( wool are ( simple weave l ! pla9 homespun1 b complicat$ patt]ns are also wov5 ( wool4 ,! y>ns are arrang$ 9 ! loom 9 ! same way z ! cotton ab\t :i* we /udi$4 ,_m beautiful patt]ns are made 9 wool5 mat]ials1 ev5 ! complicat$ patt]ns ( d\ble clo? weav+ l ! old-fa%ion$ golf capes1 made ( d\ble clo?1 :i* 7 worn a few ye>s ago4 ,s y c see t ! manufactur] mu/ "k :e!r he is to adult]ate 8 wool clo? ) cotton or r$uce ! co/ ( production by us+ mungo1 %oddy1 or flocks4 ,flocks is put 9 :5 ! clo? is %runk5 or full$ 9 ! vats4 ,! %ort pieces & du/1 or flocks z x is call$1 are drawn 9 z ! s]rations op5 & ! clo? is %runk54 ,?is is all useful to "k1 = x helps "o 9 pur*as+ mat]ials4 ,mo/ ( u _c af=d to buy clo? made ( all new wool1 b we %\ld be able to tell :e!r clo? is made ( cotton & wool mix$1 or all wool4 ,we w "k by price :e!r ! all wool is new wool or n4 ,no %opkeep] %\ld sell a cotton & wool = all wool4 ,:5 we h our textiles label$ z foods are n[ label$1 we %all be able to tell4 ,:at h y le>n$ to-day :i* w help y 9 pur*as+ wool mat]ials8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abf4--,?is is ! teasel :i* is us$ to bru% ! nap ( ! clo? 9 f9i%+4 ,^! small ?i/les are arrang$ 9 r[s 9 ! ma*9e roll]s ?r\gh :i* ! clo? passes4 ,wool5 & wor/$ y>ns are us$ also 9 ! manufacture ( c>pets1 rugs1 hosi]y1 blankets1 und]we>1 & also = knitt+ purposes4 ,d y "k h[ to knit8 ,does any "o "k at y\r home8 ,x is a useful & pleasant accompli%m5t4 ,%awls1 afghans1 caps1 & sweat]s c all be knitt$4 ,miss ,james taught ! ,pleasant ,valley girls to knit bright sc>fs :i* !y wore = toboggan+ ! next w9t]4 ,"s girls made !m = sale4 ,po9ts ab\t buy+ wool5 g>m5ts4 ,"h are a few ?+s to ?9k ab\t :i* ,miss ,trav]s f ! ,/ate ,college told ! ,mo!rs' ,club ( ,pleasant ,valley to rememb] 9 buy+ wool g>m5ts or mat]ials4 #a4 ,wool mix$ ) cotton %\ld n be sold = all wool4 ,x is a *eap] fabric4 ,x we>s fairly well1 b is n s w>m4 ,pull ! fabric ap>t1 untwi/ ! fib]s to see if cotton is pres5t4 #b4 ,g>m5ts b\ght ready-made ( cotton & wool d n keep _! %ape z well z all wool g>m5ts4 #c4 ,burn+ a piece ( ! fabric w help y to id5tify ! fib]4 ,wool burns sl[ly1 *>s1 & gives (f an odor ( burn$ fea!rs4 ,cotton burns quickly ) a flame4 #d4 ,a good wool mat]ial c always be us$ ov] aga94 ,! inexp5sive is n *eap unless y wi% some?+ :i* does n look well or we> well b is *eap4 #e4 ,rememb] t a close twill weave is m durable ?an a basket weave4 ,?9k ab\t ?is 9 buy+2 = ! weave ( mat]ial affects ! we>+ quality4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,h[ is y>n :i* is to be us$ = und]we> treat$ 9 manufacture8 ,:y8 #b4 ,h[ does ?is treatm5t diff] f y>n us$ 9 ! manufacture ( broadclo?8 #c4 ,:at are "s ( ! ?+s y\r "m ?9ks ab\t :5 %e buys a g>m5t made f wool1 9 ord] to get good value = h] money8 ,,lesson #g ,,! ,,clo?+ ,,budget ,h y ev] ?\ght h[ mu* y\r clo?+ co/s fa!r & "m e ye>8 ,m>jorie ,all5 & ,b>b>a ,oakes tri$ to figure ! co/ "o day4 ,girls mu/ beg9 to le>n h[ to sp5d wisely1 = !y w v soon h ! responsibility ( be+ sp5d]s4 ,if y c make "s ( y\r clo?+1 y w help to r$uce ! co/4 ,w\ld y l to le>n to make a budget z well z a simple dress skirt to we> ov] ! bloom]s8 ,suppose we /udy to-day ab\t ! clo?+ budget4 ,h y ev] tri$ to calculate h[ mu* is sp5t ea* ye> = y\r clo?+8 ,if n1 suppose y try4 ,girls :o "k h[ to make "s articles ( clo?+ c h m = ! same am\nt ( money4 ,suppose y s5d = ! mat]ial = y\r dress skirts4 ,x is wise to le>n to make a v simple skirt fir/4 ,*oose a simple patt]n4 ,y\r tea*] w help y4 ,:at mat]ial w y use8 ,p]haps y w\ld l a middy bl\se lat] to we> ) ! skirt4 ,c y "n "s suitable cotton mat]ials to use = ?is purpose8 ,yes1 ,indian head1 galatea1 duck4 ,y h /udi$ ab\t all ( ^! & %\ld h !m 9 y\r sample books4 ,su* a dress w be suitable = s*ool we>4 ,talk ) y\r tea*] & calculate h[ mu* clo? y mu/ buy = y\r skirt & middy4 ,:ile y are wait+ = ! clo? y h ord]$1 let u /udy h[ ,m>jorie's ,c\s9 ,ann1 :o works at ,pat]son1 manages to plan ea* ye> = h] clo?+4 ,%e has su* good plans4 ,d y "k t su* a plan is call$ a budget8 ,w\ld y l to le>n to make y\r clo?+ budget8 ,ann e>ns #aj p] week & h] room & bo>d co/ h] #f p] week1 s %e has #d = o!r exp5ses4 ,%e puts aside #a4ej ea* week = clo?+1 & s has #f p] mon? or ab\t #ge p] ye>4 ,%e lives ne> h] "w s does n h daily c>f>e1 & %e goes home at ! noon h\r = a little re/ & = lun*4 ,! re/ ( h] money %e divides 9 ?is way3 ,ea* week %e tries to save #ge c5ts or #c p] mon?4 ,! re/ %e uses = *ur* & club exp5ses1 = gifts1 newspap]s1 or occasionally %e buys a new necktie or an extra wai/2 b usually ! #ge supply all h] clo?+ ne$s4 ,?is is h[ %e manages4 ,%e plans = m ?an "o ye>1 usually try+ to keep ?ree ye>s 9 m9d4 ,ann also goes to ! ,girls' ,club & has le>n$ to make h] wai/s & "s simple dresses4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abg4--;,c\s9 ,ann's division ( h] money4 ,h[ mu* 0 = clo?+8 ,! foll[+ is :at %e b\ght ! fir/ ye>4 ,rememb] %e _h "s clo!s to beg9 ) be=e %e />t$ to keep h] clo?+ budget4 ,y\r budget w ( c\rse be diff]5t f ?is1 b ?is w %[ h[ ,ann manages ) #ge4 ,"s ?+s :i* %e ne$s y may h no use = 9 y\r section ( ! c\ntry4 ,try to plan :at y w\ld sub/itute4 ,?is w at lea/ be a work+ basis = y1 & w give y "s sugge/ions = mak+ y\rs4 ,m>jorie ,all5 & ,b>b>a ,oakes h made _! clo?+ budgets4 ,!y h #fj p] ye> = clo?+4 ,:at d y ?9k !y omitt$ f ?is li/8 ,! ?+s m>k$ 99 are made at home4 ,ann's "m helps h]2 b ,ann le>n$ to make clo!s at h] ,sew+ ,club4 ,,fir/ ,,ye> #b union suits 7w9t]7 #b4jj #d4jj #c union suits 7summ]7 4#ej #a4ej #a flannelette nightdress #a4jj #a4jj #a flannelette nightdress left ov] #b night dresses 4#hj #a4fj 99#c corset cov]s 4#ej #a4ej #b pairs ( corsets #b4jj #d4jj #f pairs ( /ock+s 4#be #a4ej #b pairs ( g>t]s 4#be 4#ej %oes3 #a high lace #c4jj #b pairs l[ %oes #b4ej #h4jj #a pair rubb]s 4#ge #a black sate5 petticoat #a4jj #a long :ite petticoat #a4be #b %ort :ite petticoats 4#ge #a4ej retrimm+ la/ ye>'s be/ w9t] hat #a4be summ] hat 7new7 #d4jj #a /raw hat1 common we> 4#ge #a umbrella #a4jj 99#a wool dress skirt #d4jj 99#c %irt wai/s3 #b tailor$ #a4jj 99#a fancy #a4ej #c4ej #a w9t] coat #ab4jj #a spr+ coat 7left f la/ ye>7 #a pair kid gloves #a4ej #a pair wool gloves 4#ej #a wool dress 7w9t]1 b\ght close ( season7 #ab4jj #a sweat] #c4jj 99#a summ] dress #c4jj 99#a :ite duck dress skirt #a4jj #a p>ty dress 7left ov] f la/ ye>7 ,gloves1 h&k]*iefs1 neckties1 coll>s receiv$ = ,*ri/mas4 ------ ,total #ge4fj ,notice t 9 ! second ye> "s articles are left ov] f ! ye> be=e4 ,?is is because ,ann has =esight4 ,%e is a good manag]1 & takes c>e ( h] clo!s too1 & plans ahead4 ,d y8 ,,second ,,ye> #b union suits 7left f la/ ye>1 w9t]7 #b union suits 7left f la/ ye>1 summ]7 #a new union suit summ] 4#ej #b flannelette nightg[ns 7left ov]7 #b summ] nightdresses 7left ov]7 #a new summ] nightdress 4#ge 99#c corset cov]s 4#ej #a4ej #b pairs ( corsets #b4jj #d4jj #f pairs ( /ock+s 4#be #a4ej #b pairs ( g>t]s 4#be 4#ej %oes3 #a high lac$ #c4jj #a pair l[ %oes #b4ej #a pair l[ left ov]1 half sol$ 4#ge #a pair high lac$1 half sol$ 4#ge #g4jj #a pair rubb]s 4#ge #a black sate5 petticoat #a4jj #a long :ite petticoat 7left ov]7 #b %ort :ite petticoats 7left ov]7 #a new %ort :ite petticoat 4#ge #a w9t] hat #e4jj #a w9t] hat 7left ov]7 common we> #a summ] hat 7retrimm$7 #a4ej #a new summ] hat 7second7 #b4jj #a umbrella 7left ov]7 99#a wool skirt 7refre%5$7 #a4jj 99#b %irt wai/s 7pla97 #a4jj #b4jj 99#a extra :ite wai/ #a4ej #a4ej #b %irt wai/s 7left ov]7 #a w9t] coat 7left ov]7 #a spr+ coat 7new7 #ab4jj #a pair kid gloves #a4jj #a pair wool gloves 7left ov]7 #a wool dress 7left ov]7 #a sweat] 7left ov]7 99#a summ] dress 7left ov]1 remodel$7 #a4jj #a :ite duck skirt 7left ov]7 99#a new :ite duck skirt #a4jj 99#a p>ty dress #h4jj #a coat suit1 b\ght end ( w9t] season #ad4jj #b g+ham aprons #a4jj #a g+ham h\se dress 7ready-made7 #a4ej #a summ] dress #d4jj ------ ,total #gd4ge ,try to f9d bel[1 9 ! li/ = ?ird ye>1 ! articles left ov]4 ,also new articles :i* w be ( s]vice ! f\r? ye>4 ,d y n ?9k x is wise to plan 9 ?is way8 ,m>jorie & ,b>b>a h enjoy$ mak+ _! budgets4 ,,?ird ,,ye> #b union suits1 w9t] #b4jj #d4jj #b union suits1 summ] 4#ej #a4jj #a union suit1 summ] 7left ov]7 #b flannelette nightg[ns #a4jj #b4jj #a new summ] nightg[n 4#ge 4#ge #a summ] nightg[n 7left ov]7 99#c corset cov]s 4#ej #a4ej #b pairs corsets #b4jj #d4jj #f pairs ( /ock+s 4#be #a4ej #b pairs g>t]s 4#be 4#ej %oes3 #a pair high lac$ #c4jj #a pair high lac$ repair$1 left ov]1 4#ge #a pair l[ %oes 7new7 #b4ej #a pair p>ty slipp]s 7new7 #b4jj #h4be #a pair rubb]s 4#ge #a black sate5 petticoat #a4jj #a long :ite petticoat #a4be #a new %ort :ite petticoat 4#ge #a %ort :ite petticoat 7left ov]7 retrimm+ la/ ye>'s w9t] hat #a4be #a w9t] hat 7common we>7 #a4ej #a summ] hat 7new7 #e4jj #a summ] hat 7remodel$1 common we>7 #a4jj #a umbrella #a4jj 99#a wool skirt #d4jj 99#b %irt wai/s 7pla97 #a4jj #b4jj 99#a extra :ite wai/ #a4jj #a4jj #b %irt wai/s 7left ov]7 #a w9t] coat 7left ov] #b ye>s7 #a spr+ coat 7left ov] "o ye>7 #a pair kid gloves #a4ej #a pair wool gloves 4#ej 99#a wool dress 7remodel$ aft] #b w9t]s' we>7 #c4jj #b :ite duck skirts 7left ov]7 #a p>ty dress left ov] 7refre%5$7 #b4ej #a coat suit 7left ov]7 #b g+ham aprons 7left ov]7 #a g+ham h\se dress 7new7 #a4ej #a g+ham h\se dress 7left ov]7 #a summ] dress remodel$ #a4jj #a new summ] dress #d4jj #a ra9coat #e4jj #a wool dress 7b\ght t[>ds close ( season7 #aj4jj #a pair w9t] arctics #b4jj ------ ,total #ge4jj ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems ,plan a clo?+ budget ) "m's help1 & see h[ y\rs w diff] f ! above4 ,p]haps "m sp5ds less = y\r clo!s or m4 ,mrs4 ,all5 says t ,m>jorie is le>n+ to pur*ase s wisely t next ye> %e may buy all ( h] own clo!s4 ,( c\rse1 ,mrs4 ,all5 w always be will+ to help :5 ,m>jorie ne$s h]4 ,,lesson #h ,,plann+ ,,to ,,make ,a ,,dress ,,skirt ,,( ,,cotton ,,mat]ial ,let u beg9 to make our dress skirts4 ,op5 ! patt]n c>efully & exam9e x4 ,h[ did y ord] x1 by age or by wai/ measure8 ,! patt]n books usually say ord] by age = a girl unless %e is l>ge or small = h] age2 !n ord] by wai/ measure4 ,notice h[ _m pieces y h4 ,notice :e!r "s are to be cut on a l5g?wise fold3 p]haps1 ! c5t] front & maybe ! c5t] back if x has a panel front & back4 ,notice h[ _m gores !re are4 ,d y "k :at a skirt gore is8 ,look at y\r pieces4 ,a gore is always wid] at ! bottom ?an at ! top4 ,c y tell :y8 ,gores are ( diff]5t %apes4 ,/yle sometimes regulates ! wid?1 = "s seasons skirts are v n>r[ & at o!r times v full4 ,! gores help to r$uce ! fullness ar\nd ! wai/4 ,d y und]/&8 ,notice h[ _m gores y\r patt]n has4 ,! front panel is c\nt$ z "o gore1 & ! back panel a gore4 ,!re are skirt patt]ns ) ?ree1 f\r1 or ev5 elev5 or m gores4 ,p]haps y\r patt]n has ?ree gores l ! "o 9 ! picture 7,fig4 #abh74 ,!n ! c5t] back w be cut on a l5g?wise fold ( mat]ial1 z !re w be two front gores jo9+ ! back ) seams at ! hips4 ,?is is an easy patt]n & suitable = a "y girl4 ,"o mu/ ?9k ( suitability 9 select+ ! /yle to be worn4 ,in/ead ( ?ree1 y may h a pla9 five or sev5 gor$ skirt4 ,!n ! c5t] front w be plac$ on a l5g?wise fold1 & !re w be two gores ea* side ( ! front = ! five gor$ skirt1 & ?ree ea* side ( ! front = ! sev5 gor$4 ,a five gor$ skirt is a simple "o4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abh4--,! simple dress skirt & %irt wai/4 ,/udy y\r patt]n4 ,notice all ! not*es2 also j :]e ! patt]n is to be plac$ on ! w>p ?reads4 ,?is is v necess>y4 ,take y\r tapel9e & measure ! skirt l5g?2 comp>e ) y\r own measures4 ,y\r tea*] w %[ y h[ to take y\r skirt measure1 at front1 hips1 & back1 f ! wai/ l9e to ! desir$ l5g? 7see page #ej74 ,y h le>n$ h[4 ,p9 ! tapel9e ab\t ! wai/ & measure f x4 ,if y\r patt]n is too long1 x w be wise to d\ble x ov] at ! c5t] to r$uce ! l5g?4 ,if too %ort1 add a few in*es at ! bottom 9 cutt+ y\r clo?4 ,rememb] y mu/ all[ = ! hem accord+ to desir$ wid? 7see page #ej = *ang+ patt]ns74 ,n[ lay ! pieces economically4 ,rememb] ! wide end ( ! gore usually cuts to be/ advantage at ! end ( ! clo?4 ,p9 & cut out aft] y\r tea*] has approv$4 ,! patt]n usually all[s f to #a in* = seams4 ,notice h[ mu*4 ,mat* ! not*es1 p91 ba/e1 & !n try on4 ,if too loose or too tight1 x is possible to /it* inside or outside ( ! ba/+s & s to alt]4 ,! seams c be f9i%$ by ov]ca/+ ! r\gh edges 7see ,fig4 #bh74 ,if y\r patt]n calls = an op5+ or placket at "o side ( ! front1 x w be appropriate to make a hem runn+ l5g?wise ( ! skirt z a f9i% at ! placket1 & ! skirt w n be seam$ ) a simple seam at t place4 ,turn to ! wrong side "o in* = hem along ! "r front4 ,ba/e4 ,lap ?is hem ov] ! left side4 ,ba/e flat to ! left portion ( front1 & /it* ne>ly "o in* f edge1 to )9 #h or #i in*es ( ! top4 ,! placket op5+ on ! "u side ( front c be b\nd ) a two in* /rip1 sew+ on "r side at ! edge & turn+ to wrong j at ! edge4 ,if ! patt]n does n all[ = a hem on "r front & lap f9i% on ! "r side ( front1 b only = a simple seam1 !n x w be necess>y to face ! "r front portion ) a /rip #a-;in*es wide4 ,p9 ! skirt to ! belt+4 ,x is possible to turn 9 ! skirt edge at top ( belt s t x comes ev5 ) ! top ( ! belt4 ,?is makes a slightly rais$ wai/ l9e4 ,/it* neatly at ! top edge4 ,turn hem at ! bottom ! desir$ wid? & ba/e c>efully4 ,! /it*+ ( ! hem c be done on ! "r side = neat] f9i% if ! ba/+ is done ) c>e4 ,sew on hooks & eyes4 ,be c>eful to atta* ! hooks s t !y w n %[ on ! outside ( skirt4 ,mollie ,/>k 0 s successful ) h] skirt t %e made "o = h] old] si/] ,ru?1 & also won ! prize at ! ,c\nty ,fair conte/4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,/udy "s ( ! skirt patt]ns :i* "m has at home4 ,comp>e ) ! "o us$ at s*ool4 #b4 ,:at is a skirt gore8 ,describe4 ,draw on ! blackbo>d4 #c4 ,give "s sugge/ions = economical cutt+4 ,,lesson #i ,,clo?+ ,,9 ,,relation ,,to ,,heal? ,d y "k t clo!s help to keep u well8 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls le>n$ h[1 & we are to /udy1 too4 ,well p are usually happy p & !y c d _m m ?+s = !mselves & = o!rs ?an sick p4 ,h y ev] ?\ght ab\t ?is8 ,all p wi% to be well1 b _m are n because !y =get t x is absolutely necess>y to ?9k ea* day ab\t keep+ well4 ,!re are _m ?+s :i* help to accompli% ?is4 ,"o _c wait until ! end ( ! mon? or ye> to ?9k ab\t keep+ well1 b mu/ d s e day1 z y h le>n$4 ,ex]cise & good habits1 sleep1 prop] food1 recreation1 & prop] clo?+ all h a %>e4 ,clo!s are m important ?an p ?9k4 ,ill heal? is (t5 ! result ( lack ( ?\ght 9 ! protection ( ! body4 ,let u /udy h[ clo!s affect heal?4 ,y "k clo?+ helps to keep u w>m or cool1 if we dress prop]ly4 ,y h le>n$ h[ necess>y x is to pres]ve an ev5 body temp]ature4 ,gr[+ girls mu/ ?9k ab\t ?is1 = no girl is well dress$ :o does n ?9k ab\t ! relation ( clo!s to heal?4 ,is a dress really beautiful if x is unhygi5ic8 ,miss ,trav]s told ! ,mo!rs' ,club t clo?+ %\ld s]ve our use 9 ! be/ way1 %\ld be pleas+ & arti/ic1 b also com=table en\gh to p]mit fre$om4 ,did y ev] feel sorry = ! poor ,*9ese wom5 :o squeeze _! feet8 ,_m ,am]ican wom5 squeeze _! wai/s z well z _! feet4 ,?is prev5ts prop] circulation ( ! blood & causes _m compla9ts1 loss ( hair1 & s]i\s tr\bles1 because ! circulatory sy/em _c c>ry n\ri%m5t to ! _m p>ts ( ! body4 ,p]haps y h notic$ "s girls we> v ?9 /ock+s1 l[ %oes1 & l[-neck$ dresses2 really v scant clo?+ 9 cold wea!r4 ,is ?is a good practice1 d y ?9k8 ,:y n8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abi4--,%oes are important4 ,:y8 ,heat & en]gy are g5]at$ by ! body4 ,we h le>n$ t x is a ma*9e4 ,food1 wat]1 ex]cise1 re/1 keep x go+4 ,heat & en]gy are ! result & are ne$$ if ! ma*9e is to run well4 ,if ! heat is all c>ri$ away quickly because ! surfaces ( ! body are expos$ to ! cold1 !n !re is a wa/e ( ! en]gy :i* %\ld g to provide = ! necess>y work+s ( ! body4 ,:y d we we> clo?+8 ,! pr9cipal reason is t ! body may be protect$ f ! cold & t ! temp]ature ( ! body may be kept con/ant4 ,x protects also f %>p1 h>d objects & bri]s & /ones :i* might injure ! feet4 ,_m p ?9k only ( ! decoration4 ,?is does affect our *oice ( clo!s too1 b %\ld n be ! prime consid]ation4 ,miss ,trav]s told ! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley to keep ^! ?+s 9 m9d 9 *oos+ clo!s3 ,"s ?+s to rememb] 9 *oos+ we>+ app>el4 #a4 ,adapt y\r clo?+ to y\r "w4 ,"o _c d g>d5 & h\se "w 9 /iff coll>s & unsuitable clo?+4 #b4 ,! condition ( heal? w affect *oice4 ,/rong1 well p d n ne$ ! same k9d ( clo?+ z sick or delicate p4 #c ,age makes a diff]5ce2 "y p are m vigor\s ?an old p4 ,babies feel ! heat or cold m ?an adults4 #d4 ,clo?+ %\ld be *os5 9 relation to climate & temp]ature2 9 w9t]1 "o %\ld prev5t an undue loss ( heat1 9 summ]1 clo?+ %\ld n int]f]e ) loss ( heat4 ,"s important ?+s ab\t we>+ clo?+4 #a4 ,wet clo?+ is v dang]\s & %\ld be remov$ at once4 ,if ?is is n possible1 ex]cise1 keep mov+1 until !re is opportunity = a rubd[n & *ange4 ,john ,ald5 always runs :5 he gets 8 clo!s v wet4 #b4 ,! clo?+ worn next to ! sk9 %\ld be *ang$ twice a week4 ,! body gives (f impurities :i* are absorb$ by ! clo?+4 ,?is *ange is necess>y if "o wi%es to keep well4 #c4 ,clo?+ worn at night %\ld be air$ dur+ ! day1 n %ut up 9 a closet or fold$ & plac$ "u a pill[4 #d4 ,clo?+ worn dur+ ! day %\ld be air$ at night4 ,?is is necess>y = heal?4 ,! same und]we> %\ld nev] be worn day & night bo?4 ,h[ d y air y\r clo!s8 7,fig4 #ef47 ,_m mo!rs d n *ange baby's %irt at night & wond] :y he _c sleep & is s cross4 ,sometimes ?is irritability is due to ?is v cause4 #e4 ,out] g>m5ts %\ld be r closely wov51 s t ! w9d _c p5etrate & c>ry ! heat away too rapidly4 #f4 ,heavy g>m5ts are a great burd54 ,"o we>+ !m is n free to act or "w4 ,next lesson we w /udy ab\t select+ our clo!s1 %oes1 und]we>1 & o!r g>m5ts ) ref]5ce to heal?4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,write on ! blackbo>d "s important ?+s to rememb] 9 *oos+ we>+ app>el4 #b4 ,tell "s important ?+s to rememb] 9 we>+ clo?+4 ,,lesson #aj ,,m ,,heal? ,,problems ,,9 ,,*oos+ ,,clo!s ,clo!s help to keep u well4 ,let u /udy ab\t ! wise selection & use ( !m4 ,buy+ %oes4 ,:5 ,b>b>a ,oakes goes to buy a pair ( %oes :at d y suppose %e ?9ks ab\t besides ! fact t !y are pretty & t %e likes or dislikes !m8 ,%e rememb]s t !y %\ld fit h] feet4 ,%e ?9ks ab\t ^! ?+s3 #a4 ,!y %\ld suit h] purpose1 be adapt$ to h] use4 #b4 ,!y %\ld fit ! in/ep & heel snugly4 #c4 ,!y %\ld be /raight on ! inside l9e4 #d4 ,! heel %\ld be broad en\gh to balance ! body well4 #e4 ,! soles %\ld be /rong en\gh to walk1 & ?ick en\gh s dampness _c /rike ?r\gh4 #f4 ,!re %\ld be pl5ty ( room = ! toes to move4 7,see ,fig4 #abi74 #g4 ,!y %\ld be long & wide en\gh = com=t4 ,tight %oes are a /ra9 on ! body4 ,_m girls h fall5 ar*4 ,?is affects ! :ole n]v\s sy/em & makes !m ill4 ,_m are suff]+ & d n "k ! cause4 ,b>b>a ,oakes 0 ill = a long "t be=e h] "m or ! doctor knew :y4 ,x is n necess>y to we> an ar* support] or an or?op$ic %oe1 if "o has normal feet2 & "o c h normal feet if ! above ?+s are rememb]$4 ,"s girls *oose fooli% footwe>1 & lat] h mu* discom=t & are unable to walk4 ,v great c>e mu/ be tak5 to keep ! feet dry4 ,x is *eap] to buy a pair ( rubb]s ?an to pay a doctor2 & rubb]s save %oes & keep ! wet f rott+ ! ?read ( ! %oes4 ,_m wom5 =get t x is dang]\s = a woman to get h] feet wet4 ,select+ clo?+ t is heal?ful4 ,/ock+s %\ld be *os5 9 relation to climate4 ,x is unwise to we> ?91 transp>5t /ock+s on a cold day4 ,if possible h two weights & select accord+ to wea!r4 ,corsets are important4 ,!y may s]i\sly affect heal? if n worn correctly4 ,!y %\ld fit snugly ov] ! hips b all[ fre$om at ! wai/ l9e4 ,= "y girls corset wai/s are v satisfactory4 ,great c>e %\ld be tak51 h[ev]1 :5 ! fir/ corset is select$4 ,jane ,smi? says h] "m tri$ sev]al = h] be=e gett+ exactly ! "r "o4 ,! corset %\ld leave no m>ks on ! body4 ,! dang] is t1 unless well fitt$1 a corset int]f]es ) circulation4 ,lac+ causes all k9ds ( tr\bles4 ,x de=ms ! body & makes x h\r glass 9 %ape1 in/ead ( free & beautiful l ,miss ,james' picture ( ! ,v5us de ,milo 7,fig4 #acj74 ,:5 tight b&s or corsets int]f]e ) circulation1 ! blood supply = ! bra9 & ! o!r organs is %ut (f1 & consequ5tly ^! organs are n n\ri%$4 ,mo/ girls wi% to pres]ve ! graceful wai/ l9e ) :i* nature has end[$ !m4 ,d y8 ,fat easily accumulates ar\nd ! wai/1 b pl5ty ( ex]cise1 g>d5+1 sweep+1 walk+1 climb+1 w prev5t ?is4 ,buy a corset :i* supports y\r organs1 "o :i* does n press d[nw>ds2 & arrange ! g>t]s s t !y w n be too tight & int]f]e ) ! circulation4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acj4--,notice ! beautiful l9es on ! figure ( ,v5us de ,milo4 ,und]we> affects heal?4 ,d y rememb] t we discov]$ ! reason :y "o %\ld be p>ticul> ab\t ! k9d ( und]we> worn8 ,we le>n$ t ill heal? & fatigue are (t5 caus$ by weight ( clo?+ or by tight clo?+ caus+ lack ( circulation or by clo?+ :i* prev5ts ! sk9 f be+ v5tilat$4 ,textile mat]ials & temp]ature ( ! body are closely relat$4 ,we %\ld le>n to "k :i* mat]ials to select4 ,ea* p]son feels ! ne$ diff]5tly4 ,old p & little babies feel ! heat or cold m ?an o!r p4 ,gr&mo!r ,/>k usually feels cold & we>s a %awl ab\t h] %\ld]s4 ,und]we> mu/ be *os5 9 relation to climatic conditions & also = conditions "u :i* "o we>s !m1 = indoor or outdoor "w4 ,ea* mu/ /udy h] heal?1 ! climate1 h] age1 & occupation1 & plan accord+ly = ! be/ k9d4 ,und]we> %\ld be *os5 :i* c be easily cleans$1 also t :i* w p]mit pl5ty ( air next to ! sk94 ,^! prop]ties ( mat]ials1 z we call !m1 mu/ be /udi$4 ,! body1 z we "k1 loses heat & wat] e day4 ,"s mat]ials conduct heat m rapidly ?an o!rs2 & "s absorb & reta91 :ile o!rs elim9ate1 moi/ure m readily4 ,absorption & elim9ation diff] ) diff]5t fabrics4 ,l95 is quick] ?an o!r fabrics to elim9ate moi/ure4 ,wool on a dry body ( a p]son :o does n ex]cise freely feels w>m & cont9ues s z long z ! sk9 does n give (f m moi/ure ?an ! wool c take up4 ,if ! body cont9ues !n to give (f moi/ure1 ! heat ( ! body _c escape & "o does n feel com=table4 ,if a curr5t ( air or a draught occurs1 ! heat w be conduct$ quickly & ! bodily temp]ature r$uc$ too quickly4 ,s und]we> mu/ n only prev5t too great loss ( heat by conduction1 b mu/ be s con/ruct$ z to cons]ve heat :5 x is ne$$4 ,heat is elim9at$ :5 mat]ials conduct x4 ,porosity ( mat]ials prev5ts too great elim9ation4 ,! air 9 ! me%es or pores prev5ts ?is1 z a /ill lay] ( air does n conduct heat readily4 ,a loosely wov5 or knitt$ %awl is w>m] "u c]ta9 conditions ?an "o :i* is firm]4 ,two lightweight g>m5ts are bett] ?an "o heavy "o because ( ! air space betwe54 ,wool is w>m1 b irritat+ to _m p4 ,x is n z cleanly z "s fabrics1 = x absorbs ! body excretions & is n easily laund]$4 ,z x %r9ks ) use1 x has few] air spaces betwe5 ! me%es4 ,any loosely wov5 or knitt$ und]we> ) air spaces is m hygi5ic ?an ! closely wov54 ,cotton g>m5ts are (t5 wov5 loosely & s treat$ 9 manufacture t !y absorb easily4 ,silk is v pleas+ b co/ly4 ,silk & wool comb9$ are also excell5t1 b exp5sive4 ,! great argum5t = wool or = wool & cotton is t evaporation is sl[ unless moi/ure & draught are pres5t1 & s ! bodily temp]ature is n apt to be r$uc$ s unduly z ?r\gh cotton or l952 9 o!r words1 "o is n s apt to take cold4 ,union suits =m an ev5 lay] ov] ! :ole body & are consid]$ m hygi5ic ?an ! d\ble lay] ( ve/ & draw]s at ! abdom54 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,:at und]we> d y ?9k is ! be/ k9d = y to we> consid]+ y\r age1 "w1 climate1 heal?8 #b4 ,write a composition ( two hundr$ words ab\t ! be/ k9d ( corsets to we>1 & :y4 #c4 ,:at important ?+s w y consid] ! next "t y buy a pair ( %oes8 ,,review ,,problems ,i4 ,beg9 to keep y\r clo?+ budget4 ,ask "m to p]mit y to plan x4 ,d n /op at ! end ( ! ye>2 keep on = at lea/ f\r ye>s4 ,,ii4 ,9 :at ways are y def9itely plann+ ea* day to keep well8 ,h[ d clo!s help8 ,,iii4 ,:at facts le>n$ at s*ool c y give "m ab\t wool1 :i* w help 9 buy+ y\r new w9t] coat4 ,,iv4 ,plan a s*ool exhibit ( all ! "w done dur+ ! ye>4 ,y\r tea*] w make sugge/ions ab\t ! refre%m5ts & invitations z well z plans = m\nt+ ! "w4 ,illu/ration ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,*oos+ ,,& ,,we>+ ,,clo!s ,h y ev] ?\ght t be+ prop]ly & attractively dress$ helps t[>ds a*iev+ success 9 life8 ,m>jorie's ,c\s9 ,ann says %e kn[s t ! neat1 tidy girls :o come to ! factory look+ = "w are m apt to be *os5 ?an ^? :o are c>eless ab\t _! dress4 ,c\s9 ,ann1 z y h le>n$1 is v p>ticul> ab\t h] appe>ance4 ,%e le>n$ long ago t cleanl9ess ( clo?+ is ! fir/ ess5tial 9 be+ well dress$1 & t neatness is ano!r requirem5t4 ,c\s9 ,ann kn[s t x takes "t to wa% out h] coll>s1 h] %ields1 & /ock+s e o!r night2 b %e also realizes t %e mu/ be p>ticul> ab\t h] appe>ance if %e wi%es to be reta9$ at ! factory4 ,%e takes "t to m5d ! te>s :i* sometimes come s unexpect$ly1 & ! lace :i* is ripp$ on h] wai/1 or to sew on ! button :i* w soon be lo/ f h] coat unless sew$4 ,if %e spills any?+ on h] dress or coat1 %e tries z soon z possible to remove ! spot4 ,?is takes ?\ght1 too1 z well z "t2 b ,ann kn[s t x pays4 ,h y1 too1 ?\ght ab\t ^! ?+s8 ,"o mu/ also "k :at is suitable & appropriate = v>i\s occasions1 & h[ to *oose becom+ colors 9 mat]ials or hats & g[ns if "o buys !m ready-made4 ,?is is really a /udy 9 buy+1 too1 & ( kn[+ h[ mat]ials are made & c be te/$4 ,all ^! ?+s 7 discuss$ by ,miss ,james & ! ,pleasant ,valley girls4 ,!y 7 always v glad :5 ,miss ,trav]s came to help too4 ,,lesson #a ,,:at ,,x ,,means ,,to ,,be ,,well ,,dress$ ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls h decid$ t x is wor? :ile le>n+ ab\t suitable & attractive dress4 ,!y are anxi\s to beg9 ?is /udy4 ,suppose we le>n "s ( ! ?+s "o mu/ ?9k ab\t & /udy 9 ord] to be prop]ly & attractively dress$4 ,"o does n h to be exp5sively dress$ 9 ord] to be attractively & well dress$4 ,mu* dep5ds on appropriat5ess4 ,x is n appropriate = a girl to we> jewelry1 ?9 /ock+s1 l[ fancy slipp]s1 lace wai/s1 fea!r hats1 to "w or to s*ool4 ,h[ mu* m attractive & appropriate is a pla91 neat %irt wai/ & clo? skirt1 a pla9 necktie & a simple hat1 & pla9 boots or ties4 ,"o %\ld n dress z if "o 7 go+ to a p>ty :5 "o goes to "w or to s*ool4 ,d y und]/& :at appropriat5ess means8 ,x means we>+ ! suitable k9d ( clo?+ = e occasion4 ,x is our duty to be z well dress$ z possible1 = our fri5ds' sakes z well z = our own2 b a well-dress$ girl is nev] conspicu\s4 ,clo!s :i* w\ld be appropriate 9 a l>ge city = a reception might be v inappropriate 9 a small t[n4 ,our daily clo!s %\ld be adapt$ to our uses1 :e!r 9 c\ntry or city4 ,w\ld y we> y\r p>ty dress = g>d5+ or = t5nis or skat+8 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aca4--,:i* ( ^! girls looks ready to d h] "w8 ,criticize y\r own g>m5ts4 ,try to h !m neat & clean1 = ?is makes "o m self-respect+4 ,try to h y\r clo!s conv5i5t1 neat1 graceful1 beautiful1 all[+ = free movem5ts ( ! body4 ,*oose some?+ :i* is n ov]decorat$ b :i* w emphasize y\r *>m & p]sonality4 ,"y girls d n ne$ jewelry or mu* decoration on clo!s1 = y\? is always *>m+ 9 itself4 ,"s girls try to copy e late/ /yle4 ,d y8 ,"o %\ld n unless x is a /yle :i* w suit "o4 ,c\s9 ,ann he>d a talk at ! ,"y ,wom5's ,*ri/ian ,association "o night4 ,x 0 on simplicity ( dress4 ,! speak] 0 f a l>ge dep>tm5t /ore 9 ,pat]son :]e ,ann lives1 & %e gave ,ann "s new ideas ab\t dress4 ,%e said simplicity is n necess>ily pla9ness1 b x means be+ s intellig5t t "o kn[s :at to leave (f 9 ! way ( decoration4 ,%e said be+ well dress$ is kn[+ :at to omit4 ,%e also said t trimm+s & ornam5ts )\t reason are fooli% & spoil a g[n4 ,because "o b[ looks well x does n foll[ t t5 w improve "o's appe>ance4 ,s _m girls are really c>icatures4 ,!y we> e exagg]at$ ?+ & _m ?+s :i* are n ref9$1 z ! v l[ neck1 or ! v scant or transp>5t skirt4 ,?is is n beauty ( dress1 b v bad & vulg> ta/e4 ,! speak] said t beauty ( co/ume is n necess>ily ! result ( co/l9ess1 b ( arti/ic appreciation4 ,c\s9 ,ann said sev]al ( ! memb]s ( h] sew+ club 7 at ?is lecture1 & !y decid$ to ask ,miss ,will+1 :o leads _! club1 to talk ab\t arti/ic appreciation4 ,c\s9 ,ann said %e did n q und]/& :at ! speak] meant4 ,?is is :at ,miss ,will+ told ! girls1 & !n !y und]/ood p]fectly4 ,p]haps y w\ld l to "k1 too4 ,a co/ume is a "w ( art4 ,%e said we mu/ ?9k ( our co/umes z be+ works ( art4 ,e girl has a /yle ( h] own1 & %e %\ld /udy x & dress s z to br+ out all h] good po9ts & conceal ^? n s attractive4 ,"o's hair or eyes %\ld be consid]$ 9 *oos+ color4 ,/oop$ or n>r[ %\ld]s1 if !y _c be correct$1 c be made to look less n>r[ by ! plan ( ! g[n4 ,/\t figures c be made to look less /\t4 ,s by *oos+ ! "r colors & correct decoration & "r l9es1 "o c (t5 improve "o's appe>ance4 ,miss ,will+ says to und]/& ab\t ?is is to h :at ! speak] at ! ,"y ,wom5's ,*ri/ian ,association call$ arti/ic appreciation4 ,"o %\ld cultivate arti/ic appreciation = good furni%+s z well z = appropriate dress4 ,miss ,will+ told ! girls ano!r ev5+ ab\t color & good l9es1 = !y are all s anxi\s to le>n4 ,!y nev] ev5 imag9$ be=e t any "o ev] ?\ght ab\t su* ?+s4 ,m>jorie ,all5 & ! o!r girls at ,pleasant ,valley ,s*ool are v glad ,c\s9 ,ann told !m too4 ,! co/ume %\ld be ! backgr\nd z x 74 ,miss ,will+ says to rememb] always t a really arti/ic co/ume is "o :i* makes u say :at a lovely girl6 r ?an :at a lovely g[n %e is we>+4 ,a co/ume %\ld n be s /rong 9 color or design t "o ?9ks only ( t4 ,d y rememb] h[ 9 "s rooms we feel ! patt]n ( ! wall pap] or ( ! c>pet4 ,:5 "o does1 ! design is poor2 ! wall is ! backgr\nd4 ,our clo!s %\ld make ! we>]s' good qualities /& out4 ,!y %\ld be subord9ate1 ,miss ,will+ says4 ,d y und]/& t ^w8 ,miss ,will+ says ! outl9e ( our clo!d figures %\ld be pleas+4 ,h y ev] walk$ to t[n & se5 girls ) l>ge hats :i* 7 n balanc$ on _! heads1 & %ort skirts & p]haps l>ge muffs8 ,if y wat* !m z !y come t[>ds y d[n ! /reet1 y w see t ! :ole outl9e or silh\ette aga9/ ! sky or h\se is poor2 !y look top-heavy or1 we say1 unbalanc$4 ,su* a co/ume is n good4 ,a small] hat ) ! %ort skirt is :at is ne$$ 9 ord] to h a balanc$ figure4 ,! outl9e ( ! natural human figure is mo/ beautiful4 ,look at ! lovely figure ( ! ,grecian woman 7,fig4 #acb72 see h[ ! l9es foll[ h] figure4 ,co/umes :i* make ugly lumps1 z bu/les & l>ge muffs1 & o!r ugly %apes are n well balanc$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acb4--,notice ! lovely folds ( ! ,grecian co/ume4 ,an arti/ic dress %[s good ta/e4 ,d y rememb] y\r talks 9 y\r art class ab\t ! spaces 9 a design1 & ! relation ( "o to ! o!r4 ,?is is true 9 dresses too4 ,tucks1 buttons1 seams1 b&s ( trimm+ all m>k (f spaces on our bodies 7,fig4 #acc74 ,9 ord] to h a really arti/ic dress1 !re mu/ be a plan ab\t ! arrangem5t ( spaces4 ,a %ort1 /\t girl ) b&s ( trimm+ runn+ ar\nd h] skirt & ) l9es ( trimm+ runn+ up & d[n ! wai/ w pres5t a v /range appe>ance to "o :o has arti/ic appreciation4 ,c y tell :y ?is w\ld n be good ta/e8 ,a /\t figure %\ld we> v]tical l9es ( trimm+ r ?an horizontal2 & ! spaces betwe5 l9es %\ld be su* z w make ! girl look small] r ?an l>g]2 s dresses mu/ be really design$1 & ! spaces1 colors1 values1 really ?\ght ab\t4 ,d y "k :at value means8 ,"s co/umes h contra/ 9 values4 ,black & :ite are %>p contra/s4 ,"o sees ! black or ! :ite at once4 ,^! spots ( black or :ite jump at "o unless !re is some?+ to connect ! two1 z gray1 :i* w\ld be an int]m$iate value4 ,spotty co/umes are n good or re/ful4 ,h y se51 p]haps1 a :ite dress ) black hat & gloves & %oes8 ,did y notice h[ ! black ?+s /& out & ! eye jumps f "o spot ( black to ano!r8 ,a :ite dress ) :ite %oes & gloves & a black hat trimm$ ) "s :ite1 ?us c>ry+ "s ( ! :ite to ! black1 w\ld be bett]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acc4--,notice ! good spac+ & arrangem5t ( l9es4 ,miss ,will+ said ?is is call$ /udy+ values4 ,we c /udy values ( color z well z ( black & :ite4 ,next lesson we %all le>n :at ,miss ,will+ told ! girls ab\t color 9 select+ or mak+ dresses4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,:y d y ?9k ,miss ,will+ _h good ta/e 9 dress8 #b4 ,:at c y tell ab\t ,miss ,will+'s talk on arti/ic appreciation8 ,:at does x mean 9 relation to dress8 #c4 ,criticize y\r own g>m5ts 9 relation to l9e1 simplicity1 decoration1 appropriat5ess4 ,,lesson #b ,,! ,,*oice ,,( ,,colors ,,= ,,clo?+ ,color is important 9 *oos+ or mak+ our clo!s4 ,we too mu/ le>n if we w\ld *oose z wisely z ! ,pleasant ,valley girls4 ,miss ,james ?9ks t ! ,pleasant ,valley girls h le>n$ s mu* ab\t color 9 relation to g5]al design 9 _! art classes t !y w be able to und]/& easily ab\t color 9 dress too4 ,colors1 !y h le>n$1 h value1 ) gradations f light to d>k4 ,9 black & :ite ! contra/ is /rik+1 b :5 values are clos] toge!r ! h>mony is clos] & less conspicu\s4 ,9 *oos+ y\r new spr+ dress be sure to ?9k ( y\r own *>act]i/ics4 ,y\r appe>ance may be injur$ or improv$ accord+ to ! color *os54 ,color ev5 m ?an design may spoil ! appe>ance1 & is important to ! we>] & to all :o come 9 contact ) h]1 = color is expression ( "o's ref9em5t & culture4 ,e girl ( ,pleasant ,valley w wi% to "k h[ to look h] be/4 ,color 9 :i* !re has be5 mix$ mu* gray1 z dull blue or dull r$ r ?an pure bright color1 is apt to make ! individual *>act]i/ics /& out4 ,?is grayness 9 color =ms a backgr\nd z x 71 or a sett+1 = ! face & %[s ! figure to be/ advantage4 ,arti/s h a way ( express+ ?is brilliancy ( color4 ,miss ,james says !y call x int5sity4 ,d y und]/& :at is meant by color :5 x is /ronge/ & l\de/ & mo/ int5se8 ,?9k ( r$ ( ! mo/ vivid brilliant k9d2 gradually ?9k ( x gr[+ gray] & gray] until x is pure gray4 ,by int5sity ( a color is meant ?is diff]5ce 9 grayness4 ,v few p c we> v bright r$4 ,miss ,james says %e mu/ h ! gray$ colors1 9 dahlia tones ( r$ if %e wi%es a d>k dress ( ?is color1 or 9 old rose if %e wi%es a dress :i* w be less somb]4 ,?is is true ( all colors2 only r$ is p]haps ! mo/ difficult to use4 ,"o le>ns to use color 9 its full int5sity only = t\*es "h & !re on a g[n or a hat1 :i* is itself n int5se 9 color4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acd4--;,c y f9d ! middle values ( gray8 ,l>ge p %\ld n we> r$4 ,blue or gre5 are cool+1 quiet+ colors & s are bett] adapt$ to l>ge figures ?an r$ & also bett] = ^? ^: features are n v pron\nc$4 ,blues :i* are n v /rong1 or s gray$ t !y h lo/ half or m ?an half ( _! /r5g?1 are m int]e/+ & becom+ = l>ge figures = a :ole dress4 ,yell[ is ne>e/ light1 & 9 comb9ation ) r$ gives ! oranges f :i* we get br[ns ( all k9ds & degrees1 ri* & w>m 9 effect4 ,try mix+ ^! colors 9 y\r pa9t box4 ,gre5 comb9es yell[ & blue4 ,x is a light1 *e]ful1 & calm color1 always re/ful & soo?+4 ,! yell[-gre5s are p]haps m *e]ful2 t is1 :5 m yell[ ?an blue is us$4 ,:5 m blue is introduc$1 ! gre5s are m soo?+ & cool4 ,violet is r$ & blue mix$2 a cool & excit+ color1 :i* c be v int5se or v subdu$4 ,*oos+ color = a dress4 ,d y ?9k ! ,pleasant ,valley girls w ?9k be=e *oos+ _! new g[ns :e!r x is = s*ool1 or = a be/ dress1 = a p>ty or = ! h\se8 ,ev5 apron mat]ial c be *os5 :i* w make ! we>] look unattractive4 ,:y n look pretty & clean :5 "o is at "w too8 ,miss ,will+ says t quiet color 9 dress is an evid5ce ( good ta/e4 ,9 comb9+ colors 9 dress "o mu/ aim to obta9 ! "r balance 9 color4 ,miss ,will+ says1 9 plann+ ! color s*eme = a co/ume1 ?9k ab\t ! dom9ant or mo/ prom95t color & endeavor to br+ ! o!rs into h>mony ) x4 ,h>mony is ! result ( colors be+ br\ght toge!r4 ,t\*es ( black help to br+ colors toge!r & s h>monize !m4 ,miss ,will+ gave sev]al o!r sugge/ions = h>mony4 ,c\s9 ,ann put !m d[n 9 h] notebook & s5t !m to ,m>jorie4 #a4 ,:5 "o wi%es to use contra/+ colors1 z yell[ & violet1 "o c get pleas+ h>mony by us+ a l>ge quantity ( "o color & a small am\nt ( ! o!r4 ,?is subord9ate relation%ip ( "o color to ! o!r gives h>mony2 ! m gray$ ! tone ( ! l>ge mass ( color1 ! great] ! int5sity ( color 9 contra/ t c be us$4 #b4 ,9 comb9+ colors ( weak int5sity = h>mony1 a h>mony ( co/ume ( "o mode1 t is "o color us$ 9 diff]5t values1 is safe b is n always s int]e/+ z ! contra/+ colors4 #c4 ,to emphasize a color1 a t\* ( ! same may be add$ to "s "p ( ! co/ume4 ,blue eyes seem ev5 m blue ) a blue necktie ar\nd ! %irt wai/ coll>4 #d4 ,ano!r way to make a good h>mony is to use complem5t>y colors4 ,r$ & blue2 gre51 violet1 & yell[2 gre5 & plum2 blue & orange2 purple & yell[-gre54 ,"o %\ld be us$ int5se1 & ! o!r 9 a gray tone4 ,= example1 9 comb9+ color ) hair1 gre5s1 p>ticul>ly gray gre5s1 are v pleas+ ) auburn hair4 ,b>b>a ,oakes discov]$ t fact ) h] auburn hair4 ,violet t5ds to make yell[ hair look m gold51 s c>e mu/ be tak5 to h a gray violet s ! gold color 9 ! hair w n be ov]p[]$4 ,r$ hair is made to look bright] :5 a blue co/ume is worn4 ,s y see "o c avoid un=tunate comb9ations if "o /udies ! /r5g? ( ! color ( ! hair 9 relation to ! colors to be us$4 ,le>n+ to comb9e colors4 ,miss ,james _h _m samples ( gauzy *iffons :i* ! girls le>n$ to h&le & to comb9e s z to get arti/ic results1 = comb9ations ( complem5t>y & contra/+ colors z well z = comb9ations ( "o hue4 ,x is only ?r\gh try+ t "o le>ns4 ,?is1 too1 is a matt] ( appreciation4 ,"s p h f9] appreciation = color ?an o!rs4 ,by ?9k+ ab\t ?is & le>n+ all y c 9 s*ool & f books1 y too may come to h real color appreciation4 ,9 *oos+ ! be/ colors = y\r figure or = "m's or = auntie's1 y mu/ ?9k ab\t ! value & int5sity z well z ! o!r *>act]i/ics ( color4 ,our co/umes1 z a rule1 are worn = diff]5t occasions & are se5 aga9/ diff]5t backgr\nds4 ,we say t ! backgr\nds1 z 9 rooms1 or aga9/ rocks or grass or hillside1 are ( ab\t middle value--halfway betwe5 :ite & black2 9 o!r words1 gray4 ,black & :ite co/umes1 !n1 w always /& out4 ,:ite t5ds to make ! figure appe> l>ge2 black calls att5tion to ! outl9es ( figure & looks be/ on p ) good figures because ( ?is emphasis ( outl9e4 ,blue1 blue gre51 & blue violet--if ( middle value1 v gray--or gray itself are be/ adapt$ to /\t figures z !y are retir+ colors4 ,!y seem to melt into ! backgr\nd & d n give prom95ce to ! figure4 ,a little bright] color may be add$ & make ! co/ume m becom+ to ! face4 ,?is %\ld be us$ ?r\gh ! c5t] ( ! g[n1 n at ! edge to draw ! eye to ! b\nd>ies ( ! /\t figure4 ,a rose or a fl[] ( contra/ at ! c5t] ( ! belt is an example4 ,/udy+ l9es ( a co/ume4 ,miss ,james says ! be/ way to get an effect ( height is to place ! longe/ possible v]tical l9es ?r\gh ! c5t] ( ! figure ) no po9ts ( emphasis z trimm+ on ! out] p>ts 7,fig4 #ace74 ,= a slim figure1 :5 "o wi%es to appe> /\t1 ! outl9e ( ! figure %\ld be emphasiz$ at ! out] sides ( sleeves or %\ld]s or skirts1 by su* arrangem5t ( trimm+ t ! eye is c>ri$ across ! figure 7,fig4 #acf74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ace4--,v]tical l9es ?r\gh ! c5t] ( ! co/ume make ! figure appe> ?9n]4 ,miss ,will+ & ! girls _h a good laugh ab\t ! use ( l>ge plaids & broad /ripes = /\t p4 ,plaids or squ>es c]ta9ly t5d to emphasize /\tness1 z d bold designs or conspicu\s color comb9ations4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acf4--,notice h[ ! emphasis on ! outside ( ! co/ume makes ! figure appe> l>g]4 ,s _m ?+s to rememb]--l9e1 value1 color2 all-important1 if "o is to be attractively dress$4 ,miss ,james has decid$ to p]mit ! girls to "w out ! color comb9ations at s*ool = _! new spr+ dresses4 ,! subject ( color 9 *oos+ hats is equally important4 ,let u /udy next lesson ab\t x4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,/udy y\r own *>act]i/ics4 ,write !m d[n4 ,decide :at pr$om9at+ color y w\ld l = a spr+ dress4 ,f ! *iffon colors :i* y\r tea*] has1 comb9e ! appropriate color comb9ation :i* y w\ld l4 #b4 ,arrange ) ! *iffon samples1 comb9ations ( complem5t>y colors1 ( contra/+ colors4 #c4 ,write a composition on ! subject ( ,:at makes a girl well dress$4 ,,lesson #c ,,select+ ,a ,,hat ,:at c y le>n ab\t ! c>e & arrangem5t ( y\r hair4 ,d y "k h[ to *oose a hat8 ,jane ,smi? says t "s day %e expects to be a mill9]4 ,p]haps %e w be4 ,miss ,james says %e c lat] g to a s*ool & /udy mill9]y4 ,?is means t ,jane w le>n n only h[ to make hats1 b ab\t ! "r l9es & colors to use4 ,jane has a natural deftness ( t\* & a good idea ab\t copy+ & design+2 s ,miss ,james ?9ks %e w make a good mill9]4 ,s (t5 hats are unbecom+ because ! colors are inh>moni\s1 or ! l9es out ( relation to ! face we>+ !m4 ,:e!r "o is old or "y1 "o %\ld ?9k ab\t ?is4 ,give "s c>e & ?\ght to y\r hair4 ,"o day :5 ,miss ,trav]s came f ! ,/ate ,college to speak to ! ,mo!rs' ,clubs1 %e /opp$ at ! s*ool & gave a talk to ! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley ,s*ool ab\t _! hair & hats4 ,%e said t s _m wom5 & girls =get to take c>e ( _! hair4 ,x %\ld be wa%$ once a mon? 9 hot wat] ) ca/ile soap & p]haps ) ! :ite ( an egg1 & !n ?or\ghly r9s$4 ,! comb & bru% %\ld be wa%$ once a week4 ,m>jorie ,all5's "m has beautiful hair1 & %e says %e does z ,miss ,trav]s told ! girls2 & also %e bru%es h] hair c>efully to remove du/1 e night be=e go+ to b$1 & braids h] hair 9 two braids = ! night4 ,?is is a v good way to c>e = "o's hair4 ,h y ev] notic$ h[ "s girls ne>ly lose all _! hair because !y burn x or dry x up ) ! curl+ irons8 ,"o %\ld be v c>eful always to te/ ! irons on a pap]4 ,burn$ hair is n beautiful4 ,s (t5 girls =get t ! becom+ness ( a hat w dep5d on ! way ! hair is tak5 c>e ( or dress$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acg4--,:i* arrangem5t ( hair & b[ d y ?9k mo/ appropriate = s*ool we>8 ,l>ge b[s1 out ( proportion to ! size ( ! head1 are v poor ta/e4 ,a b[ z well z a hat %\ld suit ! face 9 l9e z well z color1 & a b[ :i* /&s way out 9 conspicu\s angles is n good 9 l9e1 z x is n apt to con=m to ! l9es ( ! face & ( ! head we>+ x4 ,h y notic$ ?is8 ,p]haps y c try to re>range "s ( ! b[s ! girls are we>+ to s*ool s !y w be 9 bett] ta/e4 ,cleanl9ess ( ! head & hair1 & a clean1 cle> complexion1 :i* comes f prop] food & good dige/ion z well z f cleanl9ess1 are ! be/ backgr\nds = a hat4 ,any girl :o has ?is *>m ( cleanl9ess c ) ?\ght *oose a hat :i* w be becom+4 ,hats1 also1 emphasize ! defects z well z ! good po9ts ( ! we>]2 s neatness & a becom+ way ( arrang+ ! hair w help v mu*4 ,p]haps "s ( ! girls w\ld l to le>n to make hats1 too4 ,! hat is ! mo/ difficult article ( ! :ole w>drobe to select4 ,mo/ girls & wom5 we> hats t are too small & t /& on ! top ( ! head in/ead ( fitt+ x4 ,good ta/e1 ,miss ,james says1 9 *oos+ hats means ! v ?+ we h /udi$ ab\t3 arti/ic appreciation1 a k ( l9e & color & =m z well z appropriat5ess4 ,?9k ab\t ! %ape & ! l9es ( a hat4 ,hats %\ld be *os5 or plann$1 if "o is mak+ !m1 9 relation to ! :ole figure4 ,d y /& up or sit d[n be=e ! mirror 9 select+ a hat8 ,try /&+ up s y c see y\r :ole figure & ! relation ( ! hat to ! :ole4 ,y c tell !n if ! hat is too l>ge or too small1 :e!r x ov]balances ! figure1 or if ! silh\ette w be pleas+4 ,m>jorie ,all5 says s9ce %e has le>n$ ab\t ^! ?+s %e is surpris$ to notice h[ few p h ?\ght ( ?is "q ( ! silh\ette4 ,sometimes1 ! mill9]s are to blame too1 = !y d n always "k ?is secret4 ,m>jorie says h] new w9t] hat does n please h] because ( ! silh\ette4 ,miss ,trav]s told ! girls to ?9k especially ab\t l9es4 ,! r\nd-fac$ girl ^: nose turns up a little w look be/ 9 a hat t is slightly tilt$ 9 front or ) a roll+ brim at ! side or front4 ,b>b>a ,oakes says %e discov]$ t = h]self4 ,%e _h two hats :i* roll$ 9 t way2 & %e lik$ !m bett] & 0 m com=table 9 !m ?an 9 o!rs4 ,%e also le>n$ ?r\gh exp]i5ce t %e did n look well 9 n>r[ hats t b5d ov] ! face4 ,miss ,trav]s says x is true :5 "o's face is full & ! nose retr\ss1 t su* a %ape is n apt to be becom+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ach4--,"o c select a hat :i* w make a good silh\ette :5 "o sees ! :ole figure be=e a mirror4 ,miss ,james says %e notic$ t long1 ?9 faces look long] & ?9n] 9 high po9t$ trimm+s4 ,:at k9d ( trimm+1 !n1 w\ld y recomm5d = a long1 ?9 face8 ,= long faces1 a brim worn slightly =w>d w ca/ a %ad[ & s t5d to %ort5 ! l5g? ( ! face2 & brims t are roll+ & wide1 c\nt]act ! effect ( ! long1 ?9 face4 ,d y see h[ v important x is to /udy ! face & its l9es8 ,! way ( dress+ "o's hair may make x difficult to *oose a hat4 ,if ! p]son ) ! long1 ?9 face also draws back h] hair %>ply at ! sides1 h] face w look long] & x w be m difficult to *oose a hat = su* a face4 ,if ! hair is worn v fluffy :5 "o has a v r\nd1 full face1 !n ! face is apt to look full]4 ,s y see hairdress+ is v important to /udy too1 if a girl is to look h] be/ & *oose ! mo/ becom+ hats4 ,color1 too1 %\ld be kept 9 m9d4 ,"s sk9s are pale2 o!rs are rosy4 ,black makes ! complexion look :ite & %\ld n be worn next to a d>k1 sw>?y sk94 ,br[ns are apt to look well ) auburn hair l ,jane ,ald5's4 ,%e has su* a cle> complexion4 ,b>b>a's "m1 ,mrs4 ,oakes1 ) gray eyes & hair1 w look well 9 gray4 ,we h /udi$ ab\t contra/+ colors4 ,! contra/+ colors = a p]son ) light hair w be q diff]5t f ! colors = a p]son ) auburn hair4 ,notice :at is said 9 ! lesson ab\t color 9 selection ( dress4 ,?is is true ( hats too4 ,select a hat t is becom+4 ,9 *oos+ hats aim always to get :at is becom+ to y & y\r /yle r ?an ! extremes ( fa%ion4 ,! late/ /yles c always be adapt$ to suit y\r /yle if a mill9] kn[s h] bus9ess4 ,rememb] t v (t5 hats are n becom+ because !y are n ,,worn ,,prop]ly4 ,sometimes ! we>] =gets & pu%es ! hat back or to "o side2 & !n its l9es d n con=m to ! outl9e ( hair & head & face4 ,/udy h[ to we> y\r hats4 ,l>ge hats are (t5 difficult to we> because ( correct balance4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aci4--,:i* way looks bett]8 ,if y w\ld l to try to make a simple summ] hat1 p]haps y c buy a frame1 & ) y\r tea*]'s help le>n to *ange & adapt x to y\r face4 ,x is easy to le>n to sew /raw on a frame & to trim ) a b[ or fl[]s4 ,simple trimm+ = "y girls is always ! mo/ pleas+2 fl[]s1 w+s1 quills1 & simple b[s are ! mo/ suitable4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,:at ?+s w y h 9 m9d :5 y g to ! mill9]'s to select a new hat1 or to h y\r old hat remodel$8 ,write a li/ ( ! pr9cipal po9ts to be kept 9 m9d 9 *oos+4 #b4 ,br+ to s*ool pictures ( hats adapt$ to faces2 "s t are n4 ,y c f9d ^! 9 old fa%ion magaz9es2 p]haps 9 old portraits4 ,p9 !m on y\r classroom ,bullet9 ,bo>d4 ,criticize4 ,y\r tea*] w probably h "s too4 ,:y is ?is a good subject to /udy8 ,,lesson #d ,,mak+ ,,! ,,middy ,,bl\se ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls w make middy bl\ses & s complete _! gymnasium suits4 ,w y n wi% to complete y\r suits too8 ,! girls h f\nd _! bloom]s & skirts v useful1 & are glad to make ! middy bl\se too4 ,!y w use ! same mat]ial z = ! skirt4 ,by ?is "t ! ,pleasant ,valley girls are s exp]t t !y make no mi/akes 9 lay+ on _! patt]ns or 9 cutt+ out g>m5ts4 ,!y are v p>ticul> to h ! long l9e ( s+le p]=ations indicat+ ! l5g? ly+ exactly on ! w>p ?reads ( ! clo?4 ,jane ,smi? says %e c tell exactly :i* pieces mu/ be cut d\ble on a fold ( ! goods4 ,c y8 ,! girls s5t = patt]ns = #cd bu/ measure & = #ch4 ,"s ( ! girls are q l>ge = _! age--,jane ,&rews & ,b>b>a bo? are l>ge & w ne$ ! #ch size4 ,miss ,james op5$ a patt]n & held up all ! pieces4 ,%e p9n$ !m to ! dress =m s z to %[ ! relation%ip ( ea* piece to ! figure4 ,c y d ?is1 too1 be=e y beg9 to cut1 & s le>n :i* pieces are to be cut on a fold8 ,!n lay ! patt]n on y\r clo? mo/ c>efully & p9 ready = cutt+4 ,d n cut until y\r tea*] says y may4 ,le>n to use a trac+ :eel & trace y\r seams1 s all w mat* 9 putt+ ! middy toge!r4 ,?is g>m5t w be made entirely by ma*9e1 except ! h& processes ( ba/+ & ga!r+4 ,hems & fac+s %\ld be c>efully ba/$ be=e be+ /it*$4 ,good1 p]fect /it*+ improves all su* tailor$ g>m5ts4 ,poor /it*+ spoils ! effect4 ,h[ to make a middy bl\se4 ,aft] ! patt]n has be5 c>efully laid on1 & ! mat]ial cut out1 ?is is ! way to make & f9i% a middy bl\se3 #a4 ,ba/e1 ) ! seams on ! outside1 %\ld]1 & und]>m seams4 ,try on4 ,if necess>y 9 ord] to fit m smoo?ly across ! *e/1 let ! front drop2 if extra fullness across ! *e/ is desir$1 let out "u ! arms4 ,! %\ld] seams w be f9i%$1 b n ! und]>m4 ,m>k ) trac+ or p5cil ! new seam = und]>m if y mu/ *ange x4 ,make a flat fell seam at ! %\ld]1 -in* wide f9i%$4 ,y h all le>n$ h[4 #b4 ,! sleeves1 :i* are 9 "o piece1 are put 9 next1 be=e ! sleeves or und]>ms are seam$4 ,mat* ! not*es1 ga!r ! sleeves if !re is any fullness at armhole1 & ba/e 9 ! sleeves s t ! seam is on ! "r side4 ,make flat fells1 ba/+ ! turn :i* falls ov] ! sleeves s t x w lie v flat4 #c4 ,ba/e seams ( sleeve & und]>m all 9 "o long seam on "r side4 ,mat* at armhole4 ,make flat fell1 turn+ ! fell t[>ds ! front 7see page #baf74 #d4 ,hem ! bottom ( ! middy ) "o in* hem4 #e4 ,f9i% ! neck next4 ,prep>e ! coll> ) its fac+ accord+ to ! not*es ( ! patt]n & directions4 ,sew2 turn to "r side4 ,if ! coll> is to be decorat$ ) f9i%+ braid1 ?is decorat+ %\ld be done be=e ! coll> & fac+ are sew$ toge!r4 ,atta* coll> to middy1 "r ( c5t] coll> to "r ( ! c5t] back ( middy4 ,! seam w !n fall on ! inside t[>ds ! neck & w be conceal$ by ! fac+ :i* %\ld be turn$ 9 & sew$ ov] ! seam4 ,patt]ns = middies v>y1 & o!r me?ods ( atta*+ coll> may be sugge/$4 ,a loose ribbon or sc>f ( silk c be ti$ "u ! coll> to =m a sailor's knot4 #f4 ,!n f9i% ! sleeve4 ,! sleeve may be f9i%$ ) a half in* hem & roll$ z _m are worn1 or a cuff c be atta*$ :i* w be ( ! same wid? z ! sleeve or j to fit ! wri/4 ,9 ! latt] case1 ! fullness ( ! sleeve mu/ be ga!r$ to fit4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adj4--;,eyelets 7 made by "s girls1 9 ! front ( _! middy wai/s4 ,! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley ,s*ool made sleeves ( ?ree qu>t] l5g?1 & atta*$ a turn$-up cuff ( same wid? z sleeve4 ,?is cuff 0 made d\ble3 ! two pieces sew$ toge!r1 turn$1 & atta*$ to ! sleeve ) ! seam1 on ! outside ( sleeve4 ,! fac+1 !n1 conceal$ ! seam &1 :5 ! cuff 0 turn$ up1 0 entirely conceal$4 ,?is makes a v neat f9i% inside ! sleeve4 ,"s ( ! girls1 ^? :o work$ rapidly1 made eyelets at ! front ( ! middy & lac$ ! middy4 ,eyelets are pun*$ ) a /iletto or %>p po9t1 & are work$ l a buttonhole1 only p]fectly r\nd4 ,! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley w give an ent]ta9m5t ( cali/h5ic ex]cises z soon z _! middy suits are entirely complet$4 ,! boys w also give "s ex]cises ) ! dumbbells & jo9 9 ! folk danc+4 ,! ,pleasant ,valley ,news has already ann\nc$ ?is ent]ta9m5t at ! ,t[n ,hall4 ,e body 9 ,pleasant ,valley is go+4 ,! money w be us$ to pay = "s ( ! furni%+s ( ! ,ell5 ,h4 ,ri*>ds ,h\se4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,draw a sket* ( y\r middy bl\se4 ,h[ w y\rs diff] f ! "o 9 ! picture8 #b4 ,try to make ano!r middy at home4 ,,lesson #e ,,sugge/ions ,,= ,,buy+ ,,g>m5ts ,,( ,,wool ,,& ,,silk ,miss ,trav]s f ! ,/ate ,college talks to ! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley ,s*ool ab\t buy+ clo?+1 especially ( wool or silk4 ,y1 too1 w wi% to "k :at ,miss ,trav]s said4 ,h y ev] consid]$ :e!r x is wise or n to buy y\r clo?+ ready-made8 ,mo/ ( ! mo!rs ( ! ,pleasant ,valley girls make ! g>m5ts at home ) "s assi/ance f ! visit+ dressmak]4 ,:at a help ! ,pleasant ,valley girls w be :5 ! dressmak] comes to _! homes4 ,!y are n old en\gh to take full responsibility1 b !y w surely be able to assi/ aft] ! dressmak] has plann$4 ,?is w help _! mo!rs1 too4 ,mrs4 ,all51 ,mrs4 ,/>k1 & ,mrs4 ,oakes h already discov]$ h[ _m good sugge/ions _! daught]s h to give4 ,x is sometimes wise to buy ?+s ready-made4 ,9 our gr&mo!rs' day ?is 0 impossible4 ,gr&mo!r ,/>k us$ to /it* all ,gr&fa!r ,/>k's %irts by h& & make 8 ov]alls4 ,to-day "o c buy good s]viceable g>m5ts l ov]alls1 romp]s1 %irts1 etc41 at mod]ate prices1 ready-made4 ,j :at %\ld be made at home %\ld be det]m9$ by ! "m1 & w dep5d on h] "t & duties at home4 ,"s mo!rs c s organize _! h\sehold "w t !y h "t = "s sew+ too1 & !y enjoy ! *ange ( "w4 ,x pays to make c]ta9 g>m5ts because ! workman%ip is (t5 bett] & "o c *oose "o's own mat]ials4 ,?is means t ! life ( ! g>m5t is apt to be long]4 ,?is is economy if "o has ! "t & /r5g?2 b x nev] pays if "o sacrifices o!r ?+s l fre% air1 ex]cise1 "s relaxation1 = ! sake ( sav+ a little money4 ,:at %\ld y consid] 9 buy+ ready-made g>m5ts8 ,miss ,trav]s says x nev] pays to buy flimsy mat]ials1 *eap lace edg+1 or ins]tions :i* are poorly put toge!r & w te>4 ,"o c in/ead pur*ase ready-made g>m5ts :i* are pla94 ,x is n always possible to af=d ! "t to make da9ty1 f9e1 h&made und]we>1 :i* soon we>s out2 b "o c (t5 sp>e ! "t to con/ruct a few pairs ( m durable draw]s1 & corset cov]s1 by ma*9e = ev]yday we>1 :5 "o realizes h[ mu* great] w be ! life ( ! g>m5t4 ,if "o is buy+ ready-made g>m5ts1 "o %\ld ?9k ab\t ! foll[+ ?+s3 #a4 ,is ! mat]ial suitable8 w x we> well8 is ! color suitable or w x fade v soon8 #b4 ,consid] ! workman%ip4 ,are ! seams well sew$8 ,is ! /it*+ v co>se1 or does ! g>m5t look well f9i%$8 ,is ! appe>ance neat1 or w x pull ap>t v soon8 #c4 ,! con/ruction %\ld be exam9$4 ,is ! g>m5t well cut1 or is x *eap because x is scant 9 fullness8 ,?is may n p]mit ( fre$om 9 movem5t1 & ! g>m5t may h to be ca/ aside because uncom=table4 ,!n money is wa/$4 #d4 ,x nev] pays to buy any?+ :i* "o does n ne$4 ,x is well to h =esight & to plan = :at "o w ne$ = ! ye>1 b exp]i5ce soon tea*es "o ! quantity4 ,x is fooli% to buy unnecess>y ?+s because !y are pretty4 ,"o %\ld le>n n to be tempt$4 #e4 ,x sometimes pays to wait until c]ta9 seasons = pur*as+ g>m5ts4 ,betwe5 seasons "o c get well-made articles ( clo?+ at consid]able r$uction1 if "o c wait4 ,w9t] g>m5ts are r$uc$ 9 ,janu>y or ,febru>y1 & summ] goods 9 ,july or ,augu/4 ,x (t5 pays to wait4 ,9 plann+ "o's w>drobe1 "o c ?9k ab\t ?is4 ,janu>y is (t5 a good "t to buy h\sehold l95s or o!r furni%+s at a r$uction4 #f4 ,! use ( g>m5ts %\ld guide "o 9 mak+ a selection4 ,x is necess>y to /udy "o's :ole w>drobe & to "k :at is ne$$4 ,a girl engag$ 9 bus9ess w ne$ an entirely diff]5t w>drobe f "o :o sp5ds mo/ ( h] "t at home help+ "m4 ,! fir/ /ep1 !n1 9 economy is to "k "o's ne$s & to pur*ase accord+ly4 ,is ! g>m5t ne$$ & suitable = ! occasion8 ,rememb] ab\t appropriat5ess1 & buy g>m5ts :i* w r5d] ! s]vice ne$$4 ,"o does n we> silk dresses = h\sework4 #g4 ,sometimes und]g>m5ts are made 9 sweat%ops "u v undesirable conditions = heal?4 ,! g>m5ts are *eap because made by poorly paid work]s "u v unsanit>y conditions4 ,d y wi% to we> su* g>m5ts8 ,z long z wom5 buy ! *eap k9d made at ! sacrifice ( human life1 ?is sweat%op sy/em w cont9ue4 ,"o c buy inexp5sive und]we> made "u sanit>y conditions4 ,x is label$ ) a tag ( ! ,consum]s' ,league4 ,?is is an organization :i* is try+ to bett] ! conditions 9 workrooms & %ops 9 :i* clo?+ is made & to improve wages & work+ h\rs4 ,?is ,league p]mits ! use ( its label on :ite und]we> made "u ! conditions !y approve (3 no "w outside ( factories1 no *ild labor "u sixte5 ye>s ( age1 & ob$i5ce to ! /ate labor laws4 ,! labels are us$ by firms agree+ to fulfill ! above requirem5ts4 ,if y are pur*as+ und]we>1 p]haps y c buy "s ) ! ,consum]s' ,league label4 ,x looks l ?is 7,fig4 #ada74 ,miss ,james we>s ?is k9d1 & ,mrs4 ,oakes & ,mrs4 ,all51 too1 n[ t !y "k ab\t x4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ada4--;,consum]s' ,league ,label & ,union ,label4 #h4 ,x is sometimes m economical to decide on a p>ticul> color = a season4 ,"o c1 z a rule1 we> "o's clo!s to m economical advantage & look bett] dress$ by *oos+ a p>ticul> color ?an if "o has a r$ dress1 a blue coat1 & a gre5 dress = be/4 ,! coat is probably worn ) bo? dresses & may n look well4 #i4 ,rememb]1 if "o has only a limit$ am\nt ( money = clo!s1 "o %\ld n try to buy ! v late/ fa%ions4 ,exagg]at$ /yles live b a %ort "t1 & "s ( u mu/ we> our clo!s = a long "t1 until !y are worn out4 ,if mat]ials are good1 "o c (t5 h "o's clo!s remade1 by comb9ation ) a little new mat]ial ( a contra/+ k9d4 ,a k ( textile mat]ials & values w always help 9 select+ ei!r ready-made clo?+ or mat]ials4 #aj4 ,rememb] y mu/ "k ab\t ! ?+s y wi% to pur*ase4 ,cl]ks z a rule "k v little ab\t ! goods !y sell4 ,if y "k1 y c make ! doll>s e>n$ buy m ?an if y 7 ignorant4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adb4--;,x takes mu* ?\ght to le>n to buy intellig5tly4 ,:at %\ld y ?9k ab\t 9 buy+ mat]ials8 ,"h are "s ( ! h9ts = pur*as+ wool & silk mat]ials or g>m5ts :i* ,miss ,trav]s gave ! ,pleasant ,valley girls4 ,talk !m ov] ) y\r tea*]4 ,see if y agree4 #a4 ,g>m5ts made ( wool & cotton mix$ d n keep _! %ape z well z all wool4 ,if "o c af=d only wool & cotton1 ! salesman %\ld tell "o 9 pur*as+ ab\t _! composition4 ,! mixture %\ld be *eap]4 ,x is (t5 sold = all wool at a high] price4 ,if "o untwi/s ! fib]s ( ! mat]ial1 x is possible to detect cotton4 ,try at s*ool on "s ravel+s ( g>m5t seams or o!r mat]ials4 ,! burn+ te/ w help "o to decide4 ,we %all le>n "s te/s 9 our next lesson4 #b4 ,rememb] wool is an exp5sive fib]4 ,d n expect to get all wool = little money4 #c4 ,rememb] ! weave affects we>+ quality4 ,a close twill weave is (t5 m durable ?an a basket weave4 ,d y rememb] y\r lessons ab\t silk2 h[ x is gr[n & made by ! little worm1 & h[ x is manufactur$ or spun into ?read or wov5 into silk clo?8 ,9 buy+ silk "o mu/ rememb] ab\t its manufacture4 #a4 ,silk is seldom pure4 ,x is apt to be weight$4 ,if ! silk feels heavy 9 ! h&1 x does n always mean t x is a good piece ( mat]ial & w we>2 x may be weight$ ) t92 up to #cj p] c5t ( t9 is n h>mful4 ,a s(t]1 pliable silk is n apt to be s weight$1 & w we> bett]4 ,s(t silks s wov5 z to pull at ! seams are n economical4 ,close weaves are bett] ?an loosely wov5 ones = we>+4 #b4 ,fray "s ( ! ?reads ( ! clo? y wi% to buy4 ,is x possible to break ei!r ! w>p or wo( easily8 ,if s1 ! silk w split along ei!r w>p or fill+ & w n we>4 #c4 ,"o %\ld n expect to get b>ga9s 9 silk4 ,*eap silk w n we>4 ,x is bett] to we> "s o!r mat]ial4 ,is ! mat]ial made ( reel$ silk or ( spun silk8 ,y h le>n$ ! diff]5ce4 ,articles made ( reel$ silk are m exp5sive4 #d4 ,silk is sometimes adult]at$ ) cotton or artificial silk & sold = all silk4 ,we %all le>n "s te/s 9 our next lesson s we may discov] too4 ,miss ,james talk$ ov] all ^! po9ts ) ! ,pleasant ,valley girls & %[$ !m "s good & bad mat]ials4 ,! girls decid$ to be on ! look\t = ^! ?+s4 ,w y8 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,br+ to s*ool g>m5ts or mat]ials :i* h n worn well4 ,try to f9d out :y4 ,y\r tea*] w help4 #b4 ,write a composition ab\t ?+s to ?9k ab\t 9 pur*as+ a new w9t] suit ready-made4 ,if y mu/ buy f a catalogue1 c y judge ab\t ! we>+ qualities8 ,,lesson #f ,,le>n+ ,,to ,,use ,,"s ,,simple ,,textile ,,te/s ,miss ,james & ! girls ( ,pleasant ,valley tri$ "s simple te/s = mat]ials4 ,p]haps y w\ld l to try !m too8 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls became s int]e/$ 9 ,miss ,trav]s' talk ab\t textiles & h[ difficult x is to buy intellig5tly t !y decid$ to le>n to judge mat]ials & to /udy ab\t adult]ations4 ,h[ are clo?+ mat]ials adult]at$8 ,miss ,james told ! girls t !re are a numb] ( ways ( adult]at+ mat]ials1 & t mo/ wom5 %opp]s are s indiff]5t t manufactur]s h be5 able to adult]ate ! mat]ials ( ev]yday use4 ,?is increases ! co/ ( liv+1 = mat]ials d n we> s long4 ,miss ,james says t textiles %\ld be label$ s we may "k :at we are buy+4 ,"s k9d ( adult]ations are hone/ if ! goods are s m>k$2 b1 :5 sold = some?+ !y are n1 ! buy]s are fool$4 ,! te/s help "o to "k :e!r mat]ials are adult]at$ or n4 ,let u le>n fir/ "s ( ! me?ods g5]ally us$ 9 adult]at+1 & !n "s ( ! simple te/s4 ,weight+ is "o me?od ( adult]at+4 ,?is means t some?+ else has be5 us$ beside ! mat]ial4 ,9 cotton & l95 mat]ial1 siz+ or />* is press$ 9 ) ! roll+ 9 f9i%+4 ,aft] wa%+1 ?is mat]ial w be f\nd to be v op5 9 me% in/ead ( smoo?4 ,notice "s ( ! smoo? l95 table clo?s be=e !y are laund]$4 ,aft]w>ds y w notice !y look q co>se & h lo/ _! smoo?ness4 ,sometimes glue or clay or gums are us$ in/ead ( />*4 ,silk is (t5 weight$ 9 ! f9i%+ process ) sug> & "s ) dyes & metals4 ,?is is because silk has a prop]ty :i* enables x to absorb a great deal ( moi/ure )\t *ang+ its quality4 ,! manufactur] c buy salts & dyes = less ?an silk1 & s he (t5 uses a l>ge p] c5t ( dye or metal 9 place ( ! gum wa%$ out ( ! silk 9 manufacture4 ,"o c seldom f9d to-day silks l our gr&mo!rs us$ to use4 ,?is is because p wi% *eap silks2 ! manufactur] _c produce silks = little money1 z ! raw fib] is s high2 & s he uses o!r ?+s ) silk to weight x4 ,mat]ials are also adult]at$ by comb9ation ) o!r mat]ials4 ,did y ev] buy a h&k]*ief m>k$ pure l95 & discov] x 0 a mixture ( cotton & l958 ,cotton is also us$ to adult]ate wool5 mat]ials1 & sometimes silk mat]ials2 pure silk s call$1 is (t5 artificial silk4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adc4--,"o c sometimes te/ mat]ials by burn+4 ,adult]ation is also practic$ :5 made-ov] mat]ials or wa/e is us$ to *eap5 ! co/4 ,we le>n$ ab\t ?is 9 /udy+ ab\t wool4 ,wool mat]ials %\ld be label$ s t ! pur*as] w "k4 ,x is n fair to pay ! price = an all-new wool mat]ial if %oddy & mungo & flocks1 :i* are all old wool & wa/e1 h be5 us$4 ,! p] c5t ( new wool %\ld be told & ! price made accord+ly4 ,silk is sometimes sold z reel$ silk :5 wa/e f cocoons :i* is call$ spun silk has be5 us$ = ! wo( or fill+ ?read4 ,9 f9i%+ ( mat]ials1 adult]ation is sometimes practic$4 ,9 press+ cotton or l951 a lu/] is giv5 to ! surface4 ,cotton c be made to appe> l silk or l l951 & is (t5 sold = ^? fib]s4 ,cotton c be napp$ 9 f9i%+ & made to look woolly z 9 blankets or out+ flannel1 b x is /ill only cotton4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #add4--,! microscope reveals _m ?+s4 ,h[ c clo?+ mat]ial be te/$8 ,^! are ! simple te/s :i* ! ,pleasant ,valley girls le>n$3 ,= siz+4 ,?is is easy to id5tify4 ,pick at ! surface ) y\r nail1 & ! />* or siz+ w easily come (f4 ,hang a wet piece 9 ! air & see h[ ! gloss looks !n4 ,?is siz+ (t5 conceals defects 9 ! clo?4 ,^! c be se5 if ! mat]ial is ?91 by hold+ x aga9/ ! light4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ade4--,! te/ = fad+4 ,burn+ te/s4 ,! girls unravel$ ! fib]s :i* ,miss ,james gave !m & te/$ wool1 silk1 cotton1 & l954 ,!y tri$ bo? w>p & fill+ ?reads4 ,!y burn$ !m ) a tap]4 ,! animal ?reads 7:i* are !y87 burn$ sl[ly1 *>r$1 & smell$ l burn$ fea!rs4 ,silk burns to an a%1 except :5 weight$4 ,!n x burns m sl[ly4 ,:5 v heavily weight$1 ! flame does n burn readily & ! =m ( ! silk w rema94 ,! vegetable fib]s1 cotton & l951 burn quickly & ) a flame4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adf4--,! te/ = %r9kage4 ,te/s ) microscope4 ,y h all se5 ! appe>ance ( ! fib]s "u ! microscope4 ,?is reveals _m ?+s1 & ! unravel$ fib]s are easily id5tifi$4 ,! microscope is ! only sure te/ = tell+ cotton & l95 fib]s4 ,"o c sometimes discov] %oddy mix$ ) ! all-wool fib] because ( ! color4 ,%oddy is sometimes made ( old color$ wool5 rags4 ,te/s = fad+4 ,p9 a piece ( clo? on a bo>d ) ?umb tacks4 ,cov] half ) c>dbo>d or heavy pap]4 ,expose to ! rays ( sun = sev]al days4 ,remove pap] & notice diff]5ce4 ,a piece c also be expos$ ne> bright light1 b n 9 sun's rays1 to see ! effect "u ord9>y we>4 ,m>jorie ,all5 te/$ a piece ( ca%m]e %e 0 consid]+ = a dress & decid$ n to buy x1 = x fad$ quickly ne> ! bright light4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adg4--,! te/ = /r5g?4 ,te/s = /r5g?4 ,try to break ei!r w>p or wo( ?reads4 ,place ! two ?umbs toge!r & press d[n on ! clo? :i* %\ld be held firmly 9 ! h&s4 ,try bo? sets ( ?reads4 ,sometimes a weak w>p or wo( c be discov]$4 ,te/s = %r9kage4 ,b>b>a ,oakes _h a :ite cotton dress la/ ye> :i* nev] seem$ to /op %r9k+4 ,sometimes we c te/ mat]ials = %r9kage4 ,measure wid? & l5g? ( sample to be te/$4 ,wa% x 9 hot wat] & soap4 ,dry & measure aga94 ,is x n>r[] & %ort]8 ,9 plann+ = cotton or wool5 g>m5ts all[ance %\ld be made = %r9kage4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adh4--,! *emical te/s %[ _m ?+s ( use 9 judg+ mat]ials4 ,*emical te/s4 ,*emicals are us$ = id5tify+ fib]s4 ,h y le>n$ 9 y\r eigh? grade /udies ab\t acids & alkalies8 ,h y /udi$ at all ab\t *emicals8 ,x is possible to discov] ! composition ( wov5 mat]ials by te/+ !m ) *emicals4 ,?is is because acids & alkalies affect vegetable & animal fib]s 9 diff]5t ways4 ,look up ! diff]5ce betwe5 acids & alkalies4 ,/udy ) y\r tea*] & try to discov] "s ( ! common food & clean+ mat]ials :i* we use e day 9 our homes :i* are acid or alkali4 ,"s ( ^! tea* u we %\ld "k :at ! soaps & wa%+ p[d]s :i* we use w d to our clo!s4 ,y\r tea*] w provide "s *emicals = te/+4 ,x is easi] to te/ samples ( clo? if !y are fr+$ at ! edges4 ,"h are directions = "s *emical te/s3 #a4 ,place a piece ( :ite cotton clo? & a piece ( wool5 mat]ial 9 small di%es4 ,cov] ) #ej p] c5t solution ( nitric acid4 ,! wool fib]s w turn yell[4 ,! cotton rema9 :ite4 ,if a piece ( wool clo? 0 mix$ ) cotton1 h[ w\ld ! te/ prove x8 #b4 ,boil samples ( cotton & wool toge!r2 !n samples ( cotton & silk toge!r1 = fifte5 m9utes 9 a #e p] c5t solution ( cau/ic pota%4 ,! animal fib]s w dissolve1 ! cotton w rema94 ,( :at use w\ld ?is te/ be8 #c4 ,moi/5 samples ( cotton & ( wool ) ,millon's reag5t4 ,place 9 porcela9 di%es & heat g5tly4 ,! animal fib]s w become r$2 ! vegetable are un*ang$4 #d4 ,mat]ial made ( cotton & l95 & sold = all l95 c be te/$4 ,place fr+$ sample 9 a porcela9 di%4 ,heat g5tly 9 #ej p] c5t solution ( cau/ic pota% = two m9utes4 ,remove ) glass rod & dry betwe5 blott+ pap]s4 ,! l95 w be d>k yell[ 9 color & ! cotton :ite or light yell[4 ,s we h le>n$ a few te/s ( diff]5t k9ds4 ,!re are _m m4 ,:5 y g to high s*ool y c le>n ab\t o!rs4 ,! ,pleasant ,valley girls enjoy$ mak+ ^! te/s ) ,miss ,james' help4 ,p]haps y may be able to try !m ) y\r tea*]4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,try ! above *emical te/s ) y\r tea*]'s help4 #b4 ,try "s ( ! o!r te/s = adult]ations4 #c4 ,tell f\r ways 9 :i* mat]ials are adult]at$4 ,,lesson #g ,,h[ ,,patt]n ,,is ,,made ,,9 ,,clo? ,b>b>a said %e nev] c\ld q see h[ patt]n is made 9 clo?4 ,!re seem to be s _m diff]5t k9ds ( patt]ns4 ,miss ,james expla9$ ab\t ?is4 ,%e said !re are sev]al ways ( mak+ patt]ns4 ,"s are pr9t$2 o!rs wov52 "s embroid]$4 ,h y discov]$ ?is8 ,patt]ns are (t5 wov54 ,d y rememb]1 :5 y /udi$ ab\t l951 y le>n$ t ! ,jacqu>d loom has a s]ies ( c>ds above x :i* are able to control ! patt]n8 ,wond]ful silks & beautiful velvets & brocades z well z damask table l95 are made 9 ?is way by weav+4 ,patt]ns ( /ripes & plaids are also made by ! loom 9 weav+4 ,sometimes ! w>p or ! fill+ ?reads are color$2 & ?is color =ms patt]ns 9 /ripes or squ>es4 ,see if y h any pieces 9 y\r surprise box 9 :i* patt]n is made by color$ ?reads ( w>p or wo(4 ,try to f9d "s wov5 patt]ns made by ! ,jacqu>d loom 9 silk or l954 ,?9k ( all ! beautiful ribbons1 silks1 tableclo? damasks1 t[els1 & napk9s2 all su* patt]ns are wov5 by ! loom4 ,pla9 patt]ns l basket weave1 twill1 diagonal1 sat9 weave1 are also made by weav+4 ,see if y c "w out "s ( ^! patt]ns on y\r s*ool loom4 ,"s patt]ns are pr9t$4 ,on ! pla9 wov5 mat]ial1 patt]ns are pr9t$ by means ( roll]s on :i* ! patt]n has be5 /amp$4 ,! colors are put on by ?is roll]4 ,! picture %[s ! ma*9e4 ,did y ev] h a calico apron or dress ( p]cale or cambric on :i* ! patt]n %[$ on "o side only8 ,_m ribbons are pr9t$ ) a patt]n1 b sometimes patt]ns are put on bo? sides ( ! clo?4 ,aga91 pr9t+ is sometimes done on ! w>p ?reads be=e ! fill+ ?read is wov5 94 ,?is makes a dull effect 9 patt]n4 ,miss ,james _h a piece ( ribbon :i* 0 s pr9t$4 ,:5 x 0 ravell$ out a little1 ! pr9t$ w>p c\ld be se54 ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,*5ey ,bros4 ,,fig4 #adi4--,pr9t+ clo? by ma*9]y4 ,did y ev] see a f\l>d silk dress ) :ite spots8 ,d y "k h[ !y are made8 ,!re are two4 me?ods4 ,"o is call$ resi/1 & ! o!r dis*>ge4 ,! fir/ me?od1 resi/1 is easy to und]/&4 ,! mat]ial is pr9t$ be=e x is dy$4 ,! spots are pr9t$ ) a *emical :i* resi/s ! dye :5 x is put 9 ! dye ba?4 ,s ! clo? comes out ( ! dye ) :ite spots :]e ! *emical 0 /amp$4 ,! dis*>ge me?od is j ! opposite4 ,! clo? is dy$ blue or black or :atev] ! color is to be1 & !n x is pass$ betwe5 roll]s some?+ l y\r wr++ ma*9e & ! color is tak5 out 9 spots by *emicals4 ,sometimes1 :5 ! *emicals are too /rong or *eap1 !y eat ! clo?4 ,jane ,ald5's c\s9 _h a dress f :i* ! :ite spots fell out1 leav+ holes4 ,patt]ns are sometimes pr9t$ on clo? by means ( wood blocks or /5cils4 ,p]haps y c d "s pr9t+ on pla9 clo?4 ,y c make a /5cil patt]n4 ,cut out ! design 9 x & pa9t ?r\gh ! holes1 or cut a design f a piece ( wood1 dip x 9 color1 & pr9t ! clo?4 ,lovely mat]ials are made by h& 9 ?is way4 ,miss ,james has a beautiful ,engli% piece ( ,morris block pr9t+ :i* %e values highly4 ,_m patt]ns are embroid]$4 ,look 9 ! piece box4 ,sometimes embroid]$ designs are work$ on clo? by h&1 b _m are made by ma*9e4 ,miss ,james has a sc>f :i* came f ,india4 ,x is embroid]$ 9 gold ) little bits ( glass sew$ on ! "r side1 & held by ! embroid]y4 ,?is is all h& "w4 ,miss ,james has a wai/ ) little spots ( :ite embroid]$ 9 silk4 ,?is is done by ma*9e on a loom4 ,f9d "s piece ( mat]ial embroid]$ by ma*9e4 ,s ,b>b>a ,oakes n[ und]/&s ab\t ! patt]ns4 ,miss ,james _h "s books to %[ ! girls1 too4 ,!y look$ up 9 ! encyclop$ia ab\t pr9t+ ( mat]ials & ab\t ! o!r ?+s !y wi%$ to "k ab\t patt]ns4 ,b>b>a says to h] ! mo/ wond]ful ?+ is ! way 9 :i* ! w>p ?reads ( ! loom c be controll$ by ! ,jacqu>d patt]n c>ds & o!r devices4 ,! %$ ( ! w>p z x is rais$ = ea* fill+ ?read is gov]n$ by ! devices1 & a diff]5t set ( ?reads bobs up = ea* %uttle ?r[4 ,,ex]cises ,,& ,,problems #a4 ,m\nt on /rips ( c>dbo>d1 samples ( mat]ial made3 a4 ,by weav+1 pla91 /ripes1 diagonal1 etc4 b4 ,by pr9t+1 resi/1 dis*>ge1 ma*9e1 block1 /5cil2 c4 ,by embroid]y4 #b4 ,look up 9 ! encyclop$ia or o!r books ! subject ( cotton pr9t+4 #c4 ,try to f9d pictures ( mod]n looms & m primitive ones 9 :i* patt]n is controll$ by ! h>ness :i* raises ! w>p ?reads & makes ! s-call$ %$4 ,,review ,,problems ,i4 ,look ov] ! fa%ion pages ( y\r magaz9es at home & f9d3 #a4 ,a "y woman suitably dress$ = bus9ess4 #b4 ,a girl dress$ = outdoor sports4 #c4 ,a girl 9 a p>ty g[n4 ,tell :y y ?9k ea* is well dress$4 ,if n1 :y8 ,,ii4 ,:at textile te/s w\ld y sugge/ :5 buy+ a silk dress4 ,mrs4 ,/>k expects to h "o next summ]4 ,h[ w %e be able to judge if x w we>8 ,,iii4 ,c y make ano!r middy at home4 ,p]haps y are s exp]t y c take an ord] = "o4 ,,! ,,ell5 ,h4 ,,ri*>ds ,,h\se ,illu/ration3 ,c\rtesy ( ,mr4 ,r4 ,j4 ,plant54 ,,fig4 #aej4--,! ,ell5 ,h4 ,ri*>ds h\se4 ,y w be glad to "k t all ! t[nspeople 9 ,pleasant ,valley 7 delight$ ) ! ye>'s "w 9 homemak+ 9 ! new s*oolh\se4 ,mr4 ,rob]ts1 ! ,presid5t ( ! ,pleasant ,valley ,bank1 0 s pleas$ ) ! results bo? at s*ool & 9 ! homes ( ! valley t he gave ! h\se t y see 9 ! picture 7,fig4 #aej71 to be us$ = homemak+ "w by ! girls1 & = ! boys' clubs z well4 ,! h\se 0 nam$ = ,mrs4 ,ell5 ,h4 ,ri*>ds1 ! great & good woman :o liv$ 9 ,bo/on1 ,massa*usetts1 b ^: fri5ds are f\nd all ov] ! _w1 & :o help$ to develop ! tea*+ ( home economics ev]y:]e4 ,:at are "s ( ! facts ab\t clo?+ & heal? t a girl may le>n1 useful to h]self & h] family8 ,?is is ! "q at ! beg9n+ ( ! fir/ *apt]4 ,d y n ?9k t y c all give an answ] to ?is "q n[8 ,& w\ld y n l to write a composition ab\t x8 ,p]haps y\r tea*] w h a ga!r+ at ! s*ool ( all ! fa!rs & mo!rs2 & maybe "o ( y c write a little play or pageant connect$ 9 "s way ) h\sehold arts = ?is clos+ p>ty ( ! s*ool ye>4 ,p]haps y are able n[ to design y\r co/umes & make "s ( y\r g>m5ts or1 at lea/1 to select !m m wisely4 ,& :]e is ,pleasant ,valley8 ,p]haps y ask$ ?is "q :5 y look$ at ! picture on "o ( ! fir/ pages4 ,pleasant ,valley is y\r own home t[n2 &1 ?\gh x has really q ano!r "n1 x may /ill be ,pleasant ,riv]s1 or ,pleasant ,hill1 or ,pleasant ,fields1 or ,pleasant ,pla94 ,:y n8 ,9 ?is wide c\ntry ( ours !re are _m =ms ( natural beauty2 & ev5 9 ! dry sections1 :]e trees are gr[n ) difficulty1 !re are /ill ! f> rea*es ( ! pla9s & ! beautiful effects ( cl\d1 sunrise1 & sunset4 ,if our own t[n is ugly & unheal?y1 x is n ,nature's fault2 = ! beauty & home-lik5ess & ! heal?fulness ( any place dep5d ^u its inhabitants4 ,ev5 ! simple/ & pla9e/ village or c\ntryside has "o k9d ( beauty if x is kept p]fectly clean1 & x co/s b little money 9 _m places to plant trees & %rubs & keep ! grass gre54 ,y mu/ see1 h[ev]1 t x is some?+ m ?an beauty 9 ! ?+s ab\t u t we h be5 /udy+ toge!r4 ,y boys & girls 9 y\r s*ool are to be ! m5 & wom5 :o w make ! homes & ! t[n ! be/ possible places = successful & happy liv+4 ,d y realize :at x means to be citiz5s ( a great commonweal? l ?is ( our ,unit$ ,/ates8 ,d y und]/& ! mean+ ( ! ^w commonweal?8 ,x is a good old ^w t means a l& :]e all ! p %>e ev]y?+ alike & "w toge!r = ! good ( all4 ,we _c succe$ 9 do+ ?is unless we beg9 9 our home & 9 our home t[n4 ,m & m mu/ our c\ntry /& = democracy = ourselves & = ! :ole _w1 & y mu/ br+ to ! problems ( ! future1 bodies /rong & clean1 & /rong he>ts & m9ds4 ,,index ,adult]ation3 by comb9ation1 #bhj4 by weight+1 #bgi4 9 f9i%+1 #bha4 ,albatross1 #baj4 ,alpaca1 #bac4 ,ammonium phosphate = out+ flannel1 #i4 ,anil9e dyes1 #acd4 ,app>el3 *oos+1 #bdb4 ,apron3 atta*+ ! yoke1 #cg-ci4 ba/+ skirt "p1 #cc4 cutt+ skirt "p1 #ca4 cutt+ yoke "p1 #cc4 ga!r+ top (1 #cf4 hemm+ sides & bottom1 #cf4 mat]ial =1 #g4 plann+ patt]n = yoke1 #cb4 plann+ to make1 #ca-cc4 sew+ seams (1 #cd-cf4 ! sew+1 #abg1 #abh4 useful1 #abi4 ,arti/ic appreciation 9 dress1 #bed-bee4 ,atta*+ an apron yoke1 #ch4 ,ba/+3 corset cov]1 #ajf4 gores ( petticoat1 #ajd4 hemm$ pat*1 #agc4 skirt ( apron1 #cc4 /it*1 #bj4 ,ba?+1 #ia4 ,bean bags1 mak+1 #bi4 ,bean bag bo>d1 #bi4 ,bean bag game1 #bi1 #cj4 ,bias b&s1 to f9i%1 #ii4 ,bias /rip1 cutt+ & plac+1 #bd-be4 ,birdseye1 #fb1 #ahc4 ,blankets1 #bad4 ,blanket /it*3 h[ to make1 #ach4 uses (1 #dd1 #ach1 #ada4 ,blea*+ l95 clo?1 #aie4 ,bloom]s3 b&s =1 #bag4 mak+1 #bae-bag4 mat]ial to use =1 #bjb4 patt]n =1 #bja4 ,blu+1 #aij4 ,bobb91 #fg1 #fh4 ,boil+ l951 #aij4 ,brilliant9e1 #bac4 ,broadclo?1 #baa4 ,brocad$ sat91 #abd4 ,bru%+ clo!s1 #aeg4 ,bunt+1 #bac4 ,but*]s' l951 #ahc4 ,button1 sew+ on1 #de4 ,buttonhole3 fan & b> ends1 #dc4 f9i%+1 #dd4 ov]ca/+1 #da1 #db4 plac+1 #dj4 practice 9 mak+1 #ci4 /it*1 #db1 #dc4 turn+ corn]1 #dc4 ,buy+3 g>m5ts1 #bga-bgh4 mat]ials1 #bgf-bgh4 po9ts ab\t1 #aig-aii4 ,calico1 #g4 ,cambric1 #fj4 ,canton flannel1 #h4 ,c>d+3 by h&1 #gf-gg4 cotton1 #gb1 #gd4 wool1 #bbb-bbd4 ,c>+ = clo!s1 #aee-agd4 ,c>pets1 #bad4 ,ca%m]e1 #baj4 ,cat* /it*1 h[ to make1 #aej-aeb4 ,*a9 /it*1 #aai4 ,*allis1 #baj4 ,*ambray1 #g4 ,*eeseclo?1 use (1 #i4 ,*eviot1 #bji4 ,*iffon1 #abe4 ,*9a silk1 #abe4 ,*9tz1 use (1 #i4 ,cleanl9ess ( body1 #hi-ib4 ,clo?3 h[ made1 #gd-gf1 #acb-acg1 #aia-aif1 #bah-bbd4 h[ patt]n is made 91 #bhe4 ,clo!s3 appropriate1 #bea4 bru%+1 #aeg4 c>e (1 #aee-afc4 *oos+ & we>+1 #bdi1 #bej4 remov+ /a9s & spots f1 #aeh4 ?+s to le>n ab\t c>+ =1 #aef4 :y important1 #c4 ,clo!sp9 bag1 #adi-aeb4 ,clo?+3 budget1 #bcj-bcf4 color =1 #bef-bei4 exp5se ( = a ye>1 #bcj4 = body at night1 #hi-ib4 helps save body heat1 #ia4 important ?+s ab\t we>+1 #bdb4 night1 air$ dur+ day1 #ij4 po9ts ab\t buy+1 #bbi4 ready-made1 #bga-bgb4 relation to heal?1 #bdj-bdh4 select+ heal?ful1 #bdd4 sev]al lay]s (1 w>m] ?an "o ?ick lay]1 #ib4 ?+s to ?9k ab\t 9 *oos+1 #bdb4 :at to d )1 at night1 #hi4 :at to rememb]1 9 pur*as+ wool1 #bbd-bbi4 :y air at night1 #hi4 :y *ang$ at night1 #ij-ib4 :y we we>1 #bda4 ,clo?+ budget1 #bcj-bcf4 ,cluny lace1 #ic4 ,cocoons1 gr[n = silk1 #aji-aad4 ,color$ silks1 #acc4 ,colors3 *oice (1 #bef-bfj4 = clo?+1 #bef4 = a hat1 #bff4 gray$1 #bef-beg4 int5sity (1 #beg4 le>n+ to comb9e1 #bei-bfj4 to br+ out "o's *>act]i/ics1 #bef-beh4 ,comm]cial patt]n1 h[ to use1 #df-ec4 ,consum]'s ,league1 #bge4 ,corsets1 #bde4 ,corset cov]3 h[ to make1 #ajf4 mat]ial =1 #ajf4 na9sook =1 #aje4 ,corticelli cocoons1 #aac4 ,co/ume3 a backgr\nd1 #bec4 a "w ( art1 #beb4 arti/ic1 #bed-bee4 /udy+ l9es (1 #bfa4 ,cotton3 bal$ & %ipp$1 #af4 c>d+1 #gb1 #gd4 fib]s1 #g1 #ad4 h[ gr[n1 #ab4 h[ spun1 #gd1 #ge4 loom = weav+1 #ff4 pick+1 #ac4 se$s tak5 f fib]1 #a4 sp9n+1 #gb-gg4 use (1 #fe4 use ( se$s1 #ae4 v>ieties (1 #ag4 weav+1 #ff-ga4 :]e gr[n1 #aa-ab4 ,cotton clo?1 h[ wov51 #ff-ga4 ,cotton crpe1 #fj4 ,cotton fib]s1 magnifi$1 #ad4 ,cotton flannel1 v>ieties (1 #h4 ,cotton g9n+1 #ae4 ,cotton mat]ials1 #g-aj1 #ei-fb1 #aja4 ,cotton plant1 #ab4 ,c\s9 ,ann3 h] clo!s budget1 #bcj-bcf4 h[ %e c>es = h] clo!s1 #aef-afc1 #bdi4 :at %e le>n$ ab\t dress1 #bea-bef4 :at %e told ab\t silk1 #acc-acg4 ,cov]t clo?1 #baa4 ,crpe de ,*9e1 #abc4 ,cretonne1 use (1 #i4 ,cr9ol9e1 use (1 #i4 ,cross-/it*3 design =1 #add4 gifts made f1 #adf4 h[ to make1 #add1 #ade4 use (1 #adc-adf4 ,damask1 #ahc4 ,d>n+1 /raight te>s1 #afc-aff4 ,d>n+ /it*3 = /ock+s1 #afg-afi4 = /raight te>s1 #afc1 #aff4 h[ made1 #aeb-aec4 :]e to use1 #aff4 ,decorat+1 /it*es us$ =1 #aah-aba4 7,see also ,embroid]y /it*es47 ,d5ims1 #h1 #aj4 ,dimity1 #fj4 ,dress3 arti/ic appreciation 91 #bed-bee4 colors =1 #beh4 p]sonal *>act]i/ics 9 relation to1 #bef-beg4 spac+ & arrangem5t ( l9es1 #bee4 use ( colors1 #bee4 ,dress ,skirt3 lay+ & cutt+ patt]n1 #bch4 mak+1 #bch-bci4 patt]n =1 #bcf-bch4 ,duck1 #fa4 ,dye+ silk1 #acd-ace4 ,ell5 ,h4 ,ri*>ds ,h\se1 #bia4 ,embroid]y /it*es3 blanket /it*1 #ach-ada4 cat* /it*1 #aej-aeb4 *a9 /it*1 #aai4 cross-/it*1 #adc-adf4 fea!r/it*1 #aai1 #abj1 #abi1 #acj4 outl9e /it*1 #aba4 ,embroid]$ patt]ns1 #bhh4 ,etam9e1 #bac4 ,eyelets1 #bgj4 ,factory1 silk1 #acg4 ,fea!r/it*3 h[ made1 #aai1 #abj4 use =1 #abi1 #acj4 ,felt1 #bab4 ,fib]s3 cotton1 #g1 #ad4 flax1 #ahj4 silk1 #aaa1 #acb4 wool1 #bje-bjg1 #bbf4 ,fill+ ?read1 #ff4 ,flannel1 #bab4 ,flat fell$ seam1 #baf4 ,flax3 break+1 #agi4 comb+ & sp9n+1 #aia4 cultivation an anci5t indu/ry1 #ahj-aha4 fib]1 #f1 #ahj4 hackl+1 #aic4 h[ gr[n1 #agf4 rippl+ & rett+1 #agg-agi4 rippl+ by h&1 #agh4 rov+s1 #aic4 se$s1 #ahd4 :at is !1 plant1 #age4 :eel1 #gf1 #aib4 :]e gr[n1 #age4 ,flocks1 #bbh4 ,fold+ table l951 #aij4 ,f\l>d silk1 #abc4 ,free-h& patt]n1 #df4 ,fr5* seam3 h[ to make1 #hg-hh4 use (1 #hf-hh4 ,galatea1 #fb4 ,g>m5ts3 buy+1 #bga1 #bgh4 criticize y\r own1 #bea4 po9ts to consid] 9 buy+ ready-made1 #bgb-bgf4 ,gauge1 = hem1 #cf4 ,g]man ,val1 #id-ig4 ,gifts3 aprons1 #abi4 bag1 #abg4 clo!sp9 bag1 #adi-aeb4 d>n+-case1 #aag4 gue/ t[el1 #adf4 ne$le book1 #aag4 p9-case1 #aaf1 #aag4 sew+ apron1 #abg4 sew+-case1 #aah4 spool-case1 #aag4 useful cases1 #acj4 ,g+ham1 #g1 #aj4 ,gr5ad9e1 #bac4 ,gue/ t[el1 #adf4 ,hair1 c>e (1 #bfb-bfd4 ,hamburg edg+1 #aja1 #ajc4 ,h&k]*ief1 l951 #ahb4 ,h&made g>m5ts1 #eg-eh4 ,hang+ table l951 #aij4 ,hat becom+1 #bff-bfg4 color1 #bff4 h[ to we>1 #bfg4 select+1 #bfb4 %ape & l9es (1 #bfd-bfe4 trimm+ =1 #bfg4 ,heal?3 clo?+ 9 relation to1 #bdj-bdh4 und]we> effects1 #bde-bdg4 ,heels1 #afb4 ,hem3 gauge =1 #cf4 mak+ on nightdress1 #hh4 turn+ ar\nd neck ( nightdress1 #ih4 ,hemm$ pat*1 h[ to make1 #aga1 #agd4 ,hemm+ /it*3 = hemm$ pat*1 #aga4 h[ made1 #ai-bb4 :y useful1 #ai4 ,hem/it*3 diff]5t f hemm+ /it*1 #adg4 h[ to make1 #adg-adh4 ,h5rietta1 #baj4 ,h]r+bone /it*1 #aej4 ,h]r+bone weave1 #adi4 ,hold]3 f9i%+1 #bg4 plann+1 cutt+1 & ba/+1 #bd4 ,homespun1 #baj4 ,huckaback1 #fb1 #ahc4 ,indian head1 #fa4 ,iron+1 #ahi1 #aij4 ,jacqu>d ,loom1 #abd4 ,javelle wat]1 #ahg4 ,kimono night dress1 #fd4 ,knitt+ ma*9e1 #afg4 ,lace3 cluny1 #ic4 ,g]man ,val1 #id1 #if4 k9ds (1 #ic1 #if4 made by h&1 #if4 names & retail prices (1 #id-ie4 o!r ways to f9i% in/ead ( us+1 #ig4 sew+ on1 #ig-ii4 tor*on1 #ic1 #ie4 val5ci5nes1 #id1 #ig4 ,lady's clo?1 #baa4 ,late/ /yle1 #bea4 ,lawn1 #fa4 ,l953 blea*+1 clo?1 #aie4 f9i%+1 clo? = %ipp+1 #aie4 k9ds (1 #ahb-ahd4 manufacture (1 #aia-aif4 weav+1 #aid4 :]e gr[n1 #age4 7,see ,flax47 ,l95 canvas1 #ahc4 ,l95 laces1 #ic1 #if4 ,l95 mat]ials3 adult]ation 91 #bhj4 h[ id5tifi$1 #aha-ahb4 k9ds (1 #ahb-ahc4 ,l95 %eet+1 #ahb4 ,l95s3 h[ to wa% & iron1 #ahh-aij4 po9ts to be notic$ 9 buy+1 #aif-aii4 ,l9se$ oil1 #ahd4 ,loom3 = weav+ cotton1 #ff-fh4 h&1 #fg1 #gj1 #ga4 9 days gone by1 #fh4 9 factory1 #fi4 ,jacqu>d1 #abd4 primitive1 #fh1 #ga4 ,luna mo?1 #aaa4 ,mat]ials3 adult]at$1 #bgi1 #bhj4 buy+1 #bgf-bgh4 = apron1 #ca4 = bloom]s1 #bjb4 = und]we>1 #aja1 #ajf4 f cotton1 #g-aj4 f wool1 #bji-bad4 l951 #ahb-ahd4 silk1 #abc-abf4 weight$1 #bgi4 ,measurem5ts3 h[ to take1 #di-ej4 ,melton1 #baa4 ,middy bl\se1 h[ to make1 #bfh-bga4 ,mohair1 #bac4 ,moire silk1 #abe4 ,mull1 #fa4 ,musl91 #ei4 ,na9sook1 #ei4 ,nightdress3 cutt+1 #gh4 fr5*-seam1 #hf-hi4 mak+ hem (1 #hh4 mat]ial =1 #fc4 plac+ patt]n1 #gh4 trimm+1 #ih4 ,nun's veil+1 #bab4 ,organz9e1 #acc4 ,out+ flannel1 #i4 ,outl9e /it*1 #aba4 ,ov]ca/+ buttonhole1 #da1 #db4 ,ov]h&+ /it*1 #bh-cj4 ,pageant1 #bjj4 ,p>ts ( sew+ ma*9e1 #hj-hc4 ,pat* 7,see ,hemm$ pat*74 ,patt]n3 embroid]$1 #bhh4 = bloom]s1 #bja4 = petticoat1 #ajb4 h[ made 9 clo?1 #bhe4 h[ wov51 #bhe4 lay+ = bloom]s1 #bae4 lay+ nightdress1 #gi4 op5+ & read+1 #dg-dh4 op5+ & /udy+1 #bja4 pr9t$1 #bhf4 s5d+ =1 #dg4 to *ange1 #ea4 to l5g!n1 #ea4 ,p]cales1 #g1 #aj4 ,petticoat3 le>n+ to make1 #ajc-aje4 mak+1 = *ildr51 #ec-ee4 mat]ial =1 #aja1 #ajb4 patt]n =1 #ajb4 plann+ & cutt+1 #dh-eb4 ,p9case1 #aaf-aah4 ,placket1 #aje4 ,pongee1 #abe4 ,por* cu%ion1 #adj-ada4 ,press+ suits1 & skirts1 #aeg4 ,pr9t+ clo?1 #bhg4 ,protect+ clo!s1 #afa4 ,raw silk1 #aae4 ,remov+ /a9s & spots1 #aeh1 #ahe-ahi4 ,r9s+1 #aij4 ,rubb]s1 #afb4 ,ruffle1 mak+ = petticoat1 #ajd4 ,runn+ & back/it*1 #cd4 ,runn+ /it*1 #afe1 #afh1 #afi4 ,russian cra%1 #aci1 #ahb4 ,sampl]s1 #adc4 ,samples = t[el+1 #f4 ,sat91 #abc4 ,scallop$ edge1 #adb4 ,seams1 sew+ ) runn+ & back/it*1 #ce4 ,s]ge1 #bji4 ,sew+1 an art1 #c4 ,sew+ apron1 #abg-abi4 ,sew+ case1 #aah4 ,sew+ ma*9e3 h[ to regulate1 #hc4 h[ to run1 #hd-hf4 h[ to ?read1 #hd-hf4 inv5t$1 #ha4 k9ds (1 #ha4 p>ts (1 #ha-hc4 ?+s to rememb] ab\t /it*+ )1 #he4 ,sew+ on lace ins]tion or edg+1 #ig4 ,%e>+ %eep1 #bjd-bjf4 ,%e>s1 #bje4 ,%eep1 #bjd4 ,%eep indu/ry1 #bje4 ,%oes3 buy+1 #bdc4 c>e (1 #afb4 ,%uttle1 #fg-fh4 ,silh\ette1 #bed1 #bee1 #bfa4 ,silk3 cocoons gr[n =1 #aab4 dye+1 #acc-ace4 fib]s1 #aaa1 #acb4 h[ produc$1 #aji4 k9ds (1 #abb-abf4 mo?s1 #aji4 names (1 #abb-abf4 raw1 #aad-aae4 reel+1 #aad4 ?r[+1 #acb-acc4 weav+ by h&1 #acf-acg4 weight+1 #ace1 #bgi-bhj4 :]e manufactur$1 #aca4 w9d+1 #acc4 ,silk-scraps1 articles made f1 #aaf-abb4 ,silkworm3 life /ory (1 #aji-aab4 :]e gr[n1 #aaj4 ,siz+3 te/ =1 #bha4 ,skirt patt]n1 #dg4 ,skirts3 *ang+ & l5g!n+ patt]n =1 #ej1 #ea4 press+1 #aeg4 to cut1 #ea1 #eb4 to make1 #ec-ee4 ,soap b>k1 #aeh4 ,soap solution1 #aeh4 ,sp9n+1 me?od (3 9 mod]n factory1 #gc1 #bbg4 primitive1 #ga4 ,sp9n+3 cotton1 #gb-gg4 flax1 #aia-aid4 silk 7,see silk ?r[+74 wool1 #bbe-bbh4 ,sp9n+ :eel3 = flax1 #ge4 = wool1 #gd4 ,spr9kl+ l951 #aij4 ,/a9s3 blood1 #ahg4 c(fee1 #ahf4 fruit1 #ahf4 grass1 #ahg4 h[ remov$1 #ahe4 ink1 #ahg4 tea1 #ahf4 :5 to be remov$1 #ahe4 ,/it*es = decorat+1 #aah-abj4 7,see ,embroid]y /it*es47 ,/it*+ /it*3 mak+1 #be-bf4 o!r uses (1 #bg4 use (1 #bc4 ,/ock9et1 #afg4 ,/ock+s3 d>n+1 #afg-afi4 h[ made1 #afg4 k9d to buy1 #agj4 sew+ rips 91 #agj4 ,/udy+ l9es1 #bfa4 ,/udy+ values1 #bee1 #beg1 #bei4 ,suits1 press+1 #aeg4 ,table runn]1 #aci4 ,taffeta1 #abb4 ,te>s1 le>n+ to d>n1 #afc-aff4 ,textiles3 = apron1 #g1 #h4 weight$1 #bgi4 ,textile sample books1 #h4 ,textile surprise book1 #aj4 ,textile surprise box1 op5+1 #eh4 ,textile te/3 burn+1 #bhb4 *emical1 #bhd4 = comb9ation1 #bhj4 = fad+1 #bhc4 = f9i%+1 #bha4 = %r9kage1 #bhd4 = siz+1 #bha4 = /r5g?1 #bhc4 ) microscope1 #bhb4 ,?read+ & runn+ a ma*9e1 #hd-hf4 ,tick+1 #aj1 #adi4 ,tor*on lace1 #ic1 #ie4 ,t[el+1 mat]ial =1 #f4 ,t[els1 mat]ial =1 #f-g4 ,tram1 #acc4 ,twe$1 #baj4 ,und]we>3 cotton mat]ial =1 #aja4 relation to heal?1 #bde-bdg4 ,uses ( lace1 #ic-ig4 ,val5ci5nes lace1 #id1 #if4 ,velvet1 #abe4 ,voile1 #bab4 ,w>p ?read1 #fg-fh4 ,wa%+ & iron+1 ! process =1 #ahi-aij4 ,weav+3 by h&1 ) simple loom1 #fg4 cotton1 #fi4 9 mod]n factory1 #fi4 ,japanese girl1 #fi-gj1 #acf4 l951 #aid4 patt]ns 9 clo?1 #bhe4 silk1 #abd1 #acf-acg wool1 #bbf-bbh4 ,well-dress$1 :at x means to be1 #bej-bee4 ,:ite petticoat1 #aja-ajb4 ,wool3 bl5d$1 #bba4 c>d]1 #bbc4 c>d+1 #bbb4 c>d+ by h&1 #gf-gg4 fib]s1 #bje1 #bbf4 h[ made into clo?1 #bah-bbh4 mat]ial made f1 #bji-bae4 %e>$ f %eep1 #bjf4 sort$1 #bah4 sp9n+1 #bbe-bbh4 quality (1 #bjg4 v>iety ( fib]s1 #bjg4 wa%+ or sc\r+1 #bbj4 :]e gr[n1 #bjc-bjd4 :y x v>ies1 #bjh4 ,wool clo?+1 facts to rememb] ab\t pur*as+1 #bbd-bbi4 ,wool5 g>m5ts3 po9ts ab\t buy+1 #bbi4 wa%+1 #aeh4 ,wool ,voile1 #bac4 ,wool5 y>ns1 #bbe4 ,workbag1 #abg4 ,wor/$ y>ns1 #bbe4 ,y>n3 sp9n+ ( cotton into1 #gb-gg4 wool5 & wor/$1 #bbe4 ,yoke3 atta*+1 #ch4 cutt+1 apron1 #cc4 mak+ = apron1 #cg4 plac+ ! l9+1 #ci4 plann+ patt]n = apron1 #cb4 ,pr9t$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates ( ,am]ica4 99 99 99 99 99 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,transcrib] notes3 ,p4#bdb4 #e4 *ang$ to '#c44 ,p4#bfb4 '*>act]isics' *ang$ to '*>act]i/ics'4 ,v>i\s punctuation fix$4 ,note3 ,! equals sign is us$ to surr\nd bold text2 und]scores to surr\nd italic text4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------