,illustration3 ,,in ,,olden ,,times ,,the ,,women ,,prepared ,,all ,,the ,,textile ,,yarns ,,at ,,home ,,the ,,home-,,making ,,series ,,clothing ,,and ,,health ,,an ,,elementary ,,textbook ,,of ,,home ,,making ,,by ,,helen ,,kinne ,,professor ,,of ,,household ,,arts ,,education1 ,,teachers ,,college ,,columbia ,,university1 ,,author ,,of ,,food ,,and ,,household ,,management ,,and ,,shelter ,,and ,,clothing ,,and ,,anna ,m4 ,,cooley1 ,b4,s4 ,,assistant ,,professor ,,of ,,household ,,arts ,,education1 ,,teachers ,,college ,,columbia ,,university1 ,,author ,,of ,,food ,,and ,,household ,,management ,,and ,,shelter ,,and ,,clothing ,new ,york ,,the ,,macmillan ,,company #aibj ,all rights reserved ,,copyright1 #aiaf1 ,,by ,,the ,,macmillan ,,company4 ,set up and electrotyped4 ,published ,september1 #aiaf4 ,norwood ,press ,j4 ,s4 ,cushing ,co4--,berwick ,smith ,co4 ,norwood1 ,mass41 ,u4,s4,a4 ,,preface ,this volume1 like its companion1 ,food and ,health1 is intended for use in the elementary schools in those sections of the country where the home life is of the type described4 ,it is hoped that both volumes will be used by the home people as well as by those at the school4 ,this volume treats largely of the clothing problems and of the elementary work in sewing which precedes garment making4 ,it also includes the subject of the leading textile materials1--where they are grown and how they are manufactured ready for our use4 ,such topics as the hygiene of clothing1 buying materials and clothing wisely1 the clothing budget1 the use of the commercial pattern1 the care and repair of clothing1 color combinations1 and attractiveness in dress1 are woven in with the lessons on sewing and textiles1 in a very simple and elementary way4 ,the authors are indebted to the ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture1 to the ,smithsonian ,institution1 to the ,draper ,company1 ,hopedale1 ,massachusetts1 to the ,york ,street ,flax ,spinning ,company1 ,belfast1 to the ,whittall ,rug ,company1 to ,cheney ,brothers1 silk manufacturers1 and to others1 for kind permission to use the pictures shown4 ,we acknowledge1 also1 the permission of the ,corticelli ,silk ,mills of ,florence1 ,massachusetts1 for use of their copyrighted photographs of silkworms4 ,teachers will be glad to know that they can obtain from the ,corticelli ,mills1 at slight expense1 specimen cocoons and other helps for object lesson teaching4 ,,contents ,,page ,,the ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,school #a ,,chapter ,i4 ,,the ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,girls ,,learn ,,to ,,sew3 ,lesson #a4 ,toweling and ,other ,cotton ,samples #f ,lesson #b4 ,the ,story of ,how ,cotton ,grows #aa ,lesson #c4 ,the ,hemming ,stitch #ai ,lesson #d4 ,the ,stitching ,stitch #bc ,lesson #e4 ,the ,overhanding ,stitch #bh ,lesson #f4 ,planning to ,make an ,apron #ca ,lesson #g4 ,using the ,running and ,back ,stitch on the ,apron #cd ,lesson #h4 ,making and ,attaching the ,apron ,yokes #cg ,lesson #i4 ,how to ,make a ,buttonhole #ci ,lesson #aj4 ,the ,use of the ,commercial ,pattern #df ,lesson #aa4 ,taking ,measurements and ,cutting ,out the ,petticoat #ej ,lesson #ab4 ,making the ,petticoats #ec ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,the ,,girls ,,of ,,the ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,school ,,learn ,,to ,,make ,,simple ,,garments3 ,lesson #a4 ,cotton ,materials ,suitable for ,underwear #eh ,lesson #b4 ,selecting a ,pattern and the ,cloth for a ,nightdress #fc ,lesson #c4 ,how ,cotton ,cloth is ,woven #fe ,lesson #d4 ,the ,spinning of ,cotton into ,yarn #gb ,lesson #e4 ,cutting ,out a ,nightdress #gh ,lesson #f4 ,the ,parts of the ,sewing ,machine #hj ,lesson #g4 ,practice in ,threading and ,running the ,machine #hd ,lesson #h4 ,the ,french ,seam and ,its ,use #hf ,lesson #i4 ,protection for the ,body at ,night #hi ,lesson #aj4 ,laces and ,their ,use #ic ,lesson #aa4 ,trimming the ,nightdress #ih ,lesson #ab4 ,choosing the ,pattern and ,material for a ,white ,petticoat #aja ,lesson #ac4 ,learning to ,make the ,petticoat #ajc ,lesson #ad4 ,how to ,make a ,corset ,cover #aje ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,learning ,,to ,,make ,,attractive ,,gifts ,,for ,,christmas ,,or ,,for ,a ,,birthday ,,present3 ,lesson #a4 ,the ,story of ,how ,silk is ,produced #aji ,lesson #b4 ,simple ,articles ,easily ,made from ,silk ,scraps #aaf ,lesson #c4 ,the ,names and ,uses of ,several ,silks are ,discussed #abb ,lesson #d4 ,more ,useful ,gifts and ,how to ,make ,them #abg ,lesson #e4 ,cousin ,ann ,tells ,how ,silk is ,made into ,cloth #aca ,lesson #f4 ,the ,blanket ,stitch can be ,used in ,many ,ways #ach ,lesson #g4 ,learning to ,make the ,cross-stitch #adb ,lesson #h4 ,how to ,make the ,hemstitch #adg ,lesson #i4 ,another ,useful ,gift and a ,new ,stitch #adi ,lesson #aj4 ,the ,darning ,stitch #aeb ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,the ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,girls ,,learn ,,to ,,care ,,for ,,their ,,clothes ,,and ,,to ,,help ,,repair ,,the ,,household ,,linens3 ,lesson #a4 ,care of ,clothes #aef ,lesson #b4 ,learning to ,darn ,straight ,tears #afc ,lesson #c4 ,darning ,stockings #afg ,lesson #d4 ,patching ,saves ,clothing and ,other ,articles #aga ,lesson #e4 ,the ,story of ,how ,linen is ,grown #agd ,lesson #f4 ,common ,linen ,materials are ,identified #aha ,lesson #g4 ,removing ,common ,stains from ,table ,linen #ahe ,lesson #h4 ,learning to ,wash and ,iron the ,table or ,bed ,linen #ahh ,lesson #i4 ,the ,story of the ,manufacture of ,linen ,yarn into ,cloth #aia ,lesson #aj4 ,a ,talk about ,buying ,linens #aif ,,chapter ,v4 ,,the ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,girls ,,learn ,,to ,,make ,,other ,,garments3 ,lesson #a4 ,the ,pattern of the ,bloomers #bja ,lesson #b4 ,the ,story of ,where ,wool is ,grown #bjc ,lesson #c4 ,some of the ,most ,common ,materials ,made from ,wool #bji ,lesson #d4 ,making a ,pair of ,bloomers #bae ,lesson #e4 ,the ,story of ,how ,wool is ,made into ,cloth #bah ,lesson #f4 ,some ,facts to ,remember in ,purchasing ,wool ,clothing #bbd ,lesson #g4 ,the ,clothing ,budget #bcj ,lesson #h4 ,planning a ,dress ,skirt of ,cotton ,material #bcf ,lesson #i4 ,clothing in ,relation to ,health #bdj ,lesson #aj4 ,more ,health ,problems in ,choosing ,clothes #bdc ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,choosing ,,and ,,wearing ,,clothes3 ,lesson #a4 ,what it ,means to be ,well ,dressed #bej ,lesson #b4 ,the ,choice of ,colors for ,clothing #bef ,lesson #c4 ,selecting a ,hat #bfb ,lesson #d4 ,making the ,middy ,blouse #bfh ,lesson #e4 ,suggestions for ,buying ,garments of ,wool and ,silk #bga ,lesson #f4 ,learning to ,use ,some ,simple ,textile ,tests #bgh ,lesson #g4 ,how ,pattern is ,made in ,cloth #bhe ,,the ,,ellen ,h4 ,,richards ,,house #bia ,illustration ,,the ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,school ,this is a story of the way in which the mothers and fathers1 the teacher and pupils1 and their friends in the township work together to make the broad valley in which they live truly a ,pleasant ,valley4 ,the new school stands where the little red schoolhouse was built for those who are now grandmothers and grandfathers1 when the town was first settled4 ,the old building had become too small for all the young folk1 but everybody loved the place and it was not until a fire had destroyed it that money was voted for larger and better housing for the school girls and boys4 ,these small books can describe only a part of everything that is being done in and for the school1 and for the home people too1 for you know that no town can prosper and no country be great unless the homes are healthful and happy1 where all the members of every family work and play together4 ,do you not want to help1 too1 in your home1 and in your town8 ,illustration3 #ahai ,,clothing ,,and ,,health ,illustration ,,chapter ,i ,,the ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,girls ,,learn ,,to ,,sew4 ,our clothes are important for they help to keep us well4 ,shall we learn how to choose the materials for them1 and how to make some useful articles of clothing8 ,sewing is an art which all girls should learn4 ,if we know how to sew1 we can keep our clothes in order and always be neat and attractive in appearance4 ,we can1 also1 make acceptable articles and gifts for others4 ,it is useful1 too1 to know about materials and about their costs and uses2 for1 when we buy our clothing and household articles ready-made1 we should know how to tell whether the material is durable and will wear4 ,the women of the home should know how to make a dollar buy the very best things4 ,the mothers and grandmothers of ,pleasant ,valley are delighted to know that their children are to be taught at school4 ,if we understand about materials1 we will be able to help a great deal4 ,do you know that the women of the ,united ,states spend a billion of dollars every year for textile materials alone8 ,isn't it interesting to know1 too1 that our clothing materials come from plants or animals8 ,do you know how they are obtained and manufactured8 ,do you belong to a sewing club or society8 ,perhaps you can form a sewing club at your school or in your town as the girls of ,pleasant ,valley did4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4--,marjorie ,allen1 ,president of the ,girls' ,sewing ,league4 ,marjorie ,allen 7,fig4 #a7 has been made ,president of the ,girls' ,sewing ,league of ,pleasant ,valley4 ,all the school girls belong2 they meet once a week and usually sew for their annual fair4 ,sometimes they make garments for the little children who come during the summer to the ,fresh ,air ,home near their town4 ,marjorie buys all the materials2 so she must know how to buy4 ,she goes once a month with her mother1 ,mrs4 ,allen1 to town where there is a good store4 ,sometimes she orders by mail4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4--,miss ,james and some of the ,pleasant ,valley girls4 ,they are sewing for the ,league fair4 ,the girls of the league have decided to make some kitchen towels and potlifters4 ,these are useful and always sell well4 ,as the girls do not yet know how to make these articles1 they have promised to make a towel for themselves for school use1 on which to learn4 ,then they will make others for the sale4 ,cooking1 sewing1 and housewifery are a part of the school work4 ,besides ,miss ,james1 the teacher1 will give credit for the sewing done by the ,girls' ,league4 ,the girls are anxious to prove to ,miss ,james 7,fig4 #b7 that they can really work outside of school4 ,later the girls hope to make aprons and caps to wear for their school work in housewifery1 and also some petticoats for the children at the ,fresh ,air ,home4 ,miss ,james says she will help them at school to get started4 ,,lesson #a ,,toweling ,,and ,,other ,,cotton ,,samples ,marjorie sent for samples of toweling materials4 ,she also went to the town store to see what it had to offer1 and to look for materials for petticoats and aprons4 ,one day at school all the girls wrote for samples4 ,miss ,james criticized the letters1 and chose the best one to be sent4 ,perhaps you can do this at your school4 ,what material is best for toweling8 ,as soon as all the samples arrived at ,pleasant ,valley1 ,marjorie took them to school1 and ,miss ,james spent an hour with the girls studying the materials4 ,the toweling samples were examined first4 ,what a difference in them6 ,some are smooth and feel cold and look almost shiny1 and others feel soft and look more fuzzy on the surface4 ,do you know why8 ,it is because some are woven of linen fibers made from the flax plant1 and others from cotton which comes from the cotton plant4 ,which do you think are made from cotton8 ,then1 there is a difference in width3 some are only #ae inches wide1 and others are #ah inches4 ,some have a red or blue edge1 and others are plain4 ,there is also difference in price4 ,which costs more1 linen or cotton8 ,are the prices not given on the samples8 ,marjorie and the girls decided that the towels are to be one yard long4 ,they would like to make four dozen for the sale and plan to tie them up attractively1 half a dozen in a package4 ,they had #be left in the treasury from last year4 ,as they will have many other things to buy1 they decided to purchase cotton towels this year4 ,later1 if there is enough money1 they can add some linen towels4 ,cotton towels do not absorb the water as easily as the linen4 ,we call this a difference in the properties of the two materials4 ,barbara ,oakes said her mother always buys linen towels4 ,cotton fibers have a kind of waxy coating which throws off the water4 ,linen fibers draw in moisture quickly1 and linen materials dry very rapidly4 ,why1 then1 is linen really better for dish towels8 ,gingham1 calico1 and chambray are pretty and useful4 ,let us look at some of the other cotton materials4 ,miss ,james had many samples for the girls to see4 ,grandmother ,stark sent over some from her piece bag4 ,perhaps your teacher will bring some1 and your mother may send some1 too4 ,there are several samples of material for the aprons and caps4 ,the blue and white1 and pink and white stripes and checks are ginghams2 the white with the little spots and thin stripes are percales4 ,the plain blues and pinks are chambray2 the plain blues and pinks of cheaper grade are ginghams4 ,those with printed designs on one side are calicos4 ,the dark brown and blue samples are heavier and are called denims4 ,suppose we make a book of brown paper and mount all the cotton materials we can find4 ,this book can be kept at the school for reference4 ,everybody must help4 ,see if it is possible to write under each sample the name and common uses of the material as well as its price4 ,miss ,james had some smooth brown paper to fold for a book4 ,she suggested ways to bind it4 ,if each girl wishes her own book1 a number can be made if so many samples can be obtained4 ,barbara and ,marjorie decide to make their books at home4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4--,the girls made brown paper books for their textile samples4 ,there are several varieties of cotton flannel4 ,the fuzzy soft cotton samples are outing flannels and canton flannels4 ,what is the difference in their appearance8 ,the canton flannel is heavier1 and it has one twilled surface and one fuzzy surface4 ,it costs #ab cents a yard and comes about #cj inches in width4 ,outing flannel1 which is fuzzy on both sides1 can be bought from #aj to #ce cents a yard1 and it is #cf inches wide4 ,the flannelette samples are also soft and cost from #h to #ab cents per yard2 but flannelette is only #bg inches in width4 ,it has a slight nap or fuzzy surface1 and is sometimes plain in color and sometimes printed on one surface4 ,compare these three materials4 ,outing flannel is very dangerous unless treated with ammonium phosphate4 ,dissolve one quarter of a pound of ammonium phosphate1 which costs about #be cents1 in one gallon of cold water4 ,soak the clothing in this solution for five minutes4 ,this is easily done and may prevent much trouble4 ,can you tell why outing flannel is dangerous unless it is treated8 ,many other cotton materials are useful4 ,miss ,james has ever so many more cotton materials4 ,she told the girls the use and name of each4 ,can we learn them all8 ,cheesecloth4 ,thin1 sheer1 plain weave4 ,costs from #e to #ab cents per yard1 and comes #a yard wide4 ,it is used for wrapping butter or cheese1 for curtains1 and for many other purposes4 ,it may be used for baby1 too1 because it is so soft4 ,the unbleached cheesecloth costs from #d to #ab cents and is #a yard wide4 ,crinoline4 ,something like cheesecloth in appearance and stiffer in texture4 ,it is used by dressmakers for stiffening parts of garments4 ,it comes from about #ai to #cf inches wide and costs #ab-;cents up4 ,scrim4 ,an open mesh weave but heavier than cheesecloth4 ,it is used for curtains and household furnishings1 and comes bleached or unbleached4 ,what is the difference in their color8 ,cost1 from #ab to #ij cents4 ,width1 from #cf to #de inches4 ,cretonne and ,chintz4 ,printed materials with flowers or designs on one side1 sometimes on both4 ,they cost from #ab to #ge cents per yard and are used for curtains1 covers1 cushion tops1 etc4 ,they vary in width from #be to #cf inches4 ,denim4 ,strong material and has an uneven twilled weave4 ,it is used for furniture covers1 for aprons1 and for floor covering4 ,it costs from #ah to #cj cents per yard and comes about #a yard in width4 ,your big brother or father wears overalls of this material2 perhaps some of the boys in school do1 too4 ,gingham4 ,a material used for aprons or dresses1 skirts1 etc4 ,it is from #bd to #cj inches wide and costs from #aj to #ej cents per yard4 ,fine ginghams are very beautiful4 ,sometimes they are plain in color or striped or in plaids4 ,percale4 ,a good piece can be bought for #ab-;cents per yard1 #cf inches wide4 ,it comes plain or printed1 and is firm and closely woven4 ,it is good for aprons or summer dresses4 ,ticking4 ,a material used for pillows or mattress covers4 ,it is striped1 is twilled in weave1 and wears very well4 ,it costs from #ab-;cents per yard up to #ej or #fj cents per yard1 and is woven #cf inches wide4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #d4--,the surprise box4 ,do you understand what is meant when we read that cloth is woven #cf inches wide8 ,do you know how cotton cloth is made and where it comes from8 ,grandmother ,allen told some of the girls2 for she knows about all such things4 ,in our next lesson we shall study where cotton is grown1 and in another learn how it is woven4 ,another day we will learn the names of other cotton materials and their uses4 ,then1 we can add them to our book of cotton samples4 ,the little white box on ,miss ,james' desk is a surprise box 7,fig4 #d74 ,any one who finds a new cotton material different from those studied at school1 ,miss ,james says1 may drop it through the little hole in the cover of the box4 ,what fun the girls of ,pleasant ,valley will have when it is opened4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,if you were buying kitchen toweling for use at home1 what material would you buy8 #b4 ,name three fuzzy cotton materials and tell their uses4 #c4 ,decide whether you are to make a sample book4 ,begin to collect samples of cotton materials for it4 #d4 ,write quickly on the blackboard the names of six common cotton materials4 ,ask mother to name six4 ,,lesson #b ,,the ,,story ,,of ,,cotton ,,growing ,do you know that our country produces three-fourths of the cotton of the world8 ,where is it grown8 ,have you heard the story of cotton8 ,let us learn about it4 ,while the girls of ,pleasant ,valley school waited for the cotton toweling to come from the store1 they studied about where cotton is grown4 ,cotton is the cheapest and most important textile fiber4 ,what does the word textile mean8 ,look up the word in the school dictionary4 ,more clothing is made from cotton than from any other fiber4 ,where does cotton grow8 ,perhaps you have lived in the ,southern ,states4 ,can you name them without looking at your geography8 ,can you tell why it is warmer in those states and why cotton grows so well there1 and not in ,northern ,states8 ,texas produces more cotton than any other state4 ,in what other countries of the world do you think cotton is grown8 ,john ,alden and ,frank ,allen heard the girls studying about cotton1 and they told ,miss ,james that they thought the boys would like to learn1 too4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of the ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #e4--,the flower and leaf of the cotton plant4 ,the size of the flower is about four inches across4 ,how cotton grows4 ,the farmer plants the cotton seeds in rows1--you have seen corn planted in that way4 ,what color is corn8 ,the cotton seeds do not look like kernels of corn2 but some are fuzzy and soft and gray or green in color1 and others are black and smooth4 ,this is because there are many varieties or kinds of cotton4 ,some grow to be five feet tall like corn2 others1 ten feet in height4 ,the flowers are yellow at first and then turn brown or purplish red4 ,there are over one hundred varieties of cotton4 ,if you do not live near a cotton field1 perhaps you can ask some boy or girl in your school to write to the ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture at ,washington4 ,this department will send you some cotton seeds4 ,perhaps you can plant the seeds in the school garden and see if they will grow4 ,in the ,south the planter prepares the fields about ,february and plants in ,april or ,may4 ,by the middle of ,august1 the plants are five or six feet high and are covered with fuzzy little white balls1 soft and dry4 ,the cotton fields1 or plantations as they are called1 look like fairyland4 ,in the picture 7,fig4 #f7 you will see the men1 women1 and children busy picking the cotton and putting it into baskets4 ,the cotton bolls1 as they are called1 are brown and dry looking3 but when ripe1 they burst1 and the woolly looking white ball pops out of its brown house1 or shell 7,fig4 #g74 ,in each cotton boll there are about thirty or forty seeds1 and the cotton fibers are all attached to these seeds4 ,the fibers are made into thread and clothing1 and the seeds are used for many purposes4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of the ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #f4--,picking cotton4 ,cotton fibers differ4 ,we shall learn how the fiber is pulled from the seeds4 ,this process is called ginning and is done by a machine4 ,if you have a microscope in your school1 look at a cotton fiber under the glass4 ,miss ,james will send for some fibers4 ,you will see that it looks like a ribbon which has been twisted4 ,the natural twist helps very much when cotton is twisted or is manufactured into yarn4 ,cotton is a wonderful little fiber and varies in length from to #b inches4 ,the cotton called ,sea ,island cotton is the long fiber cotton1 and is grown near the sea1 for it needs the sea air4 ,the cotton called ,upland grows away on the uplands and is shorter4 ,these are the principle kinds grown in the ,united ,states4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of the ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #g4--;,cotton bolls when burst are about the size of a small apple4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #h4--;,cotton fibers magnified4 ,the cotton seeds are taken from the fiber4 ,after the pickers have gone up and down the long rows and filled their bags or baskets1 they empty the cotton into wagons which carry it to the gin house1 where the seeds are separated from the fibers and the brown pieces of the pod are blown away as it is separated and cleaned4 ,long ago in ,india and other countries1 cotton was ginned by hand4 ,what a long tedious process1 for only one pound could be separated by a person in a day4 ,the picture 7,fig4 #i7 shows a little girl at school trying to gin some cotton with a little ginning machine which she has made at school4 ,while ,george ,washington was ,president of the ,united ,states1 a man named ,eli ,whitney invented a machine1 called the saw gin1 for separating cotton fibers from the seed4 ,this invention has saved much time4 ,to-day cotton is all ginned by machinery2 and so great quantities can be separated in a day4 ,the machine works in such a way that the cotton fibers are pulled away from the seeds1 and the seeds are kept separate for other purposes4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,speyer ,school1 ,new ,york4 ,,fig4 #i4--;,a ,pleasant ,valley girl trying to gin some cotton with a little ginning machine which she has made at school4 ,the cotton seeds are used1 too4 ,some of the seeds are kept for planting1 just as you keep corn and oats on your farm2 and others are pressed4 ,cottonseed oil comes from the seeds when pressed1 and is very useful for many purposes1 such as salad oil1 soaps1 cooking fats1 and used for cattle feed4 ,the seed is covered with a fuzz which is first removed and used for lint4 ,then the hulls are removed1 and the dry cake which is left1 after the oil has been extracted1 is also used for feeding the cattle4 ,isn't cotton a very valuable plant8 ,how poor we should be without it1 for silk and wool and linen cost so much more4 ,cotton is the cheap1 useful fiber4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aj4--;,bales of cotton on a steamboat dock ready for shipping4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #aa4--;,bales of cotton from different countries4 ,the third from the left is the ,american bale4 ,the second is ,egyptian2 the fourth1 ,east ,indian4 ,the cotton is baled and shipped to manufacturers4 ,after cotton has been freed from the seed1 it is sent to the cotton mills all over the world2 some in this country and some in ,europe4 ,it is sent by boats and sometimes by train4 ,in the picture 7,fig4 #aj7 you will see bales on the dock ready to be shipped4 ,in order to ship it safely after it is ginned1 it is pressed into bales like the hay you have on your farm2 and it is covered with coarse cloth to keep it clean1 and is bound with iron bands4 ,the ,american cotton bales weigh about #ejj pounds4 ,this is the size of a bale3 #ed #bg ,x #de4 ,see if you can measure off in your schoolroom a space which will show the size of the bale4 ,when these bales are taken to the steamboat piers1 they are again made smaller by a machine1 called a cotton compress1 which reduces them to #aj inches in thickness4 ,this is so the bales will not take up so much room in being transported4 ,sometimes1 however1 this pressing injures the fiber4 ,the ,united ,states ships cotton to ,liverpool1 ,bremen1 ,havre1 ,genoa1 and many other places4 ,can you find these on the map and see what a long journey the cotton takes8 ,john ,alden went to the map and traced the journey4 ,he used the pointer and started from one of the ports of ,louisiana4 ,can you imagine which one8 ,which way do you think the steamer sailed in order to reach ,england as soon as possible8 ,perhaps you live near a shipping port and can go with your teacher to see the cotton loaded on the ships4 ,notice how the bales are lowered into the hold4 ,there are large exporting companies which take charge of shipping bales of cotton4 ,what is the difference between import and export ,we import some cotton from ,egypt1 because it is a very long fibered cotton and is good for thread1 hosiery1 and cotton gloves4 ,another day we shall study how the manufacturer at the mill opens the cotton bale and makes it into cloth4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,where is cotton grown in the ,united ,states8 ,find the states on the map4 ,tell why cotton is grown in these states4 #b4 ,examine a cotton fiber with the microscope4 ,how does it look8 ,draw a picture of it4 #c4 ,look up the story of ,eli ,whitney's invention4 ,why was it important8 ,,lesson #c ,,the ,,hemming ,,stitch ,let us begin to make the dish towels4 ,what must we think about in order to hem them very neatly8 ,why is the hemming stitch useful8 ,the hemming stitch is a very useful one to learn1 for it can be used for so many purposes4 ,let us learn on something simple--a dish towel or dish cloth for mother4 ,then you can perhaps hem something for the sale of your ,girls' ,league4 ,mrs4 ,oakes says she has a dozen new towels ready for ,barbara when she learns how to hem4 ,the raw edges of material would ravel unless turned and hemmed4 ,the turning is called a hem4 ,it is held with a temporary stitch called basting1 and then with the hemming stitch which remains4 ,if the edges were not hemmed1 the material would ravel away or look very untidy4 ,the warp threads run lengthwise of the cloth4 ,the firm selvedge is made by the filling thread passing around the warp as the cloth is made4 ,it is this filling thread which will ravel in dish toweling or other material unless a hem is made4 ,how is the hemming stitch made8 ,this is how ,miss ,james taught the girls of ,pleasant ,valley to hem3 #a4 ,turn hem of desired width4 ,for the towels1 one-fourth inch will be about right when finished4 ,there are two turns because one would ravel4 ,turn towards the worker4 ,first1 turn one-eighth inch to wrong side of material4 ,second1 turn one-fourth inch4 ,turn and pinch to hold until basted4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ab4--,the basting stitch4 #b4 ,baste4 ,use one-fourth inch stitches4 ,no4 #h needle is a good size for this work1 and basting thread can be used for this temporary stitch4 ,be sure to wear a thimble on the middle finger of the right hand4 ,little ,alice ,allen says she never will learn to use a thimble1 but she will if she keeps on trying4 ,the picture 7,fig4 #ab7 shows the even basting stitch with needle in position4 ,baste on the edge of the hem4 ,begin with a knot1 and end with two tiny stitches placed one on top of the other to hold until hemmed4 ,remember basting is a temporary stitch4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ac4--,the way to hold the cloth while hemming4 #c4 ,hem the edge with the hemming stitch4 ,look at the pictures 7,figs4 #ac-af7 and then follow carefully the directions4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ad4--,this shows how to start the hemming4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ae4--,the hemming stitch4 ,notice the slant of the needle4 ,hold the cloth slanting over the fingers of the left hand1 with thumb on top 7,fig4 #ac74 ,begin without a knot4 ,put the needle up through edge of hem and allow one inch of end of thread to lie under the hem as you pull thread through 7,fig4 #ad74 ,this end will be worked over and held securely4 ,now you are ready for the stitch4 ,point the needle which is in your right hand towards the left shoulder4 ,the point of the needle is passed first through the cloth under the edge of the hem1 with a tiny stitch which shows on the right side4 ,the needle1 at the same time1 catches the edge of the basted hem4 ,this makes a tiny slanting stitch on the right side1 so3 _/4 ,the next stitch is taken about one-sixteenth of an inch from the first1 in exactly the same way4 ,as the thread carries from one stitch to the next1 it makes a slanting line on the wrong1 or hem1 side but in the opposite direction from the stitch which shows on the right side4 ,it slants like this3 ,together these two make this3 #a_/ #b ,the part marked #a shows on the right side of the cloth2 and #b on the wrong1 where the hem is turned 7,fig4 #ae74 ,when the end of hem is reached1 fasten with two or three tiny stitches4 ,if the thread breaks1 ravel out a few stitches and let the old end of thread lie under the hem4 ,the new thread can then be started as at the beginning by putting needle in the hole of last stitch4 ,there will be two ends under the hem to work over4 ,the picture 7,fig4 #af7 shows how to join a new thread4 ,find out how many places the hemming stitch can be used4 ,try it at home on something before next lesson4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #af4--,the hemming stitch4 ,starting a new thread4 ,when this stitch has been well learned1 it will be possible for the ,girls' ,sewing ,league to make many things4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,practice turning hems neatly on a scrap of cloth before starting to turn them on the dish towel4 #b4 ,study the pictures carefully so as to have the stitch exactly the right slant4 #c4 ,practice hemming on a scrap of cloth for a few stitches before beginning the towel4 ,,lesson #d ,,the ,,stitching ,,stitch ,shall we try to make a potholder and learn another new stitch8 ,holders are very useful to the housekeeper4 ,mrs4 ,stark has a bag with pockets hanging near the kitchen stove and says it makes such a convenient place to keep holders1 for they are always at hand ready for use4 ,they can be made many sizes4 ,for the cooking class at school1 it is convenient for each girl to have a holder on a tape attached to the band of her apron 7,fig4 #ag74 ,it is always with her1 then1 for use4 ,this can be done by making a loop at the end of the tape and slipping the holder through the loop4 ,a hand towel attached at the same place is convenient1 too4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ag4--,the holder4 ,planning1 cutting1 and basting the holders4 ,holders can be made from old scraps of woolen cloth1 from either pieces of garments which have been worn and cast aside1 or new scraps from the piece bag4 ,six inches square is a good size4 ,place several squares1 one on top of the other1 according to the thickness of the cloth4 ,can you tell why wool makes a better holder than cotton8 ,for appearance we can cover the holder with some pretty piece of chintz or cretonne2 perhaps you have in the piece bag some pieces which are large enough4 ,denim is strong for a covering4 ,a piece of asbestos might be placed inside4 ,why8 ,pin all these thicknesses together1 with a cover top and bottom4 ,now baste from corner to corner and from side to side4 ,this is good practice4 ,make basting stitches of even length such as you made on the towels4 ,then baste carefully all around the four sides so that the edges are held securely4 ,we are going to bind the edge to prevent it from raveling and to make it strong4 ,tape is good for binding2 and so is a bias strip of the cretonne cover1 or of a pretty contrasting color4 ,what does contrasting mean8 ,cutting and placing a bias strip4 ,can you learn to cut a true bias strip of cloth8 ,you have learned that the warp threads are the strong threads of the cloth and run lengthwise of the material4 ,to prepare to cut a true bias strip 7,fig4 #ah71 fold the warp of the cloth over so that the warp threads lie exactly on the filling threads4 ,the fold is a true bias edge4 ,cut through the fold4 ,a true bias edge is made by cutting a square from corner to corner4 ,does it cut the warp or the filling threads8 ,to make one-inch strips for binding the holder1 measure at right angles to the fold you have just cut4 ,make a dot1 and rule a light line which will be one inch from the cut edge4 ,these are true bias strips4 ,baste the strip or tape carefully around the four sides of the holder1 and allow a little fullness at the corner4 ,the edge of the strip or tape should be even with the edge of the holder1 and the basting should be one-fourth of an inch from the edge in a straight line for a guide for the next stitch4 ,miss ,james showed the girls how to turn the corners by taking a tiny plait4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ah4--;,cutting a true bias4 ,making the stitching stitch4 ,now we are ready for a new strong stitch4 ,it is called stitching stitch1 for it is used where machine stitching might be used1 and resembles it in appearance on the right side4 ,ask your ,grandmother if she remembers when there were no sewing machines and all ,grandfather's shirts were stitched by hand8 ,grandmother ,allen and ,grandmother ,stark of ,pleasant ,valley remember4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ai4--,the stitching stitch4 ,look at the picture 7,fig4 #ai7 and follow the directions carefully1 and you will be able to make this stitch4 ,it is started with two or three tiny stitches1 one over the other for strength4 ,the row of stitches you are to make should be in a straight line just below the straight row of basting stitches4 ,hold the cloth in the same way as for hemming1 with the material over the fingers and the thumb on top4 ,now you are ready to make the new stitch4 ,the stitch is started at the right-hand end of the cloth4 ,make a stitch back over the two starting stitches and carry the needle forward twice the length of this starting stitch4 ,you will have a tiny space on the right side between the place where the needle comes up and the end of the starting stitch4 ,each time your thread should fill this space1 for your needle should go back into the end of the last stitch and twice the length forward on the opposite side as it comes up4 ,see the needle in the picture 7,fig4 #ai74 ,notice the space4 ,look at your work4 ,what is the appearance of the stitch on the wrong side8 ,on the right side8 ,this stitch is also called the backstitch4 ,why8 ,finishing the holder4 ,make a row of stitching stitches all around the edge of the holder1 holding the binding securely4 ,be careful to catch the corners well4 ,remove your basting stitches4 ,turn the tape or strip over to the other side of the holder and baste4 ,if you have used a bias strip1 the edge must be turned under one-fourth of an inch or more before basting4 ,this edge is to be held with the hemming stitch4 ,i am sure that you can all make the hemming stitch by now4 ,if you wish a loop or long tape for holding the holder1 hem it neatly at one side1 turning in the end of the tape to prevent raveling4 ,if you have some colored silk thread1 it will look well to make tiny stars like this 99 at the center of the holder and at four places about two inches from the corners on the diagonals4 ,these will hold the materials firmly together4 ,other uses for the stitching stitch4 ,the stitching stitch can be used for many other purposes4 ,it is a strong stitch for seams4 ,do you know what a seam is8 ,two pieces of cloth sewed together may form a seam4 ,look for seams in your skirt1 in your sleeve1 in your waist4 ,can you find any8 ,some one tell the difference between a hem and a seam4 ,after this lesson ,mollie ,stark helped her ,grandmother sew some long seams4 ,mr4 ,stark's overalls had ripped1 and the sewing machine was being repaired4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,practice cutting some bias strips4 ,be sure they are true bias edges4 ,how can you tell8 #b4 ,try to make the stitching stitch on teacher's demonstration cloth1 with the large needle and red worsted4 ,,lesson #e ,,the ,,overhanding ,,stitch ,a new game and a new stitch4 ,let us make the bags with the new stitch before we learn to play the game4 ,perhaps1 instead of a potholder1 you had rather make iron holders or bean bags for your ,league ,fair4 ,have you ever played bean bag game8 ,the ,pleasant ,valley school children often play this game at recess4 ,you can easily make the bags and also the board4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bj4--,the overhanding stitch4 ,making the bean bag4 ,bean bags can also be sewed with the stitching stitch1 as it is strong4 ,cut the bags of denim #ad #g inches1 or so as to make a bag #g inches square4 ,fold1 baste the edges on three sides1 sew them with stitching stitch1 and turn inside out4 ,fill with beans4 ,two inches at the middle of one side should not be sewed until after the beans have been put in4 ,would you like to learn the overhanding stitch for closing the edges of that side8 ,the two edges of the bag are turned in1 and the overhanding stitch is made on the very edge4 ,it is a very simple stitch1 and is used for sewing seams or edges together firmly4 ,the edges are held in the left hand between the thumb and first finger4 ,the needle in the right hand is pointed straight through towards the worker as in the picture 7,fig4 #bj71 and the needle is passed through the two edges4 ,the end of the thread is drawn carefully1 and one-half of an inch allowed to lie on the edge4 ,this is worked over4 ,the needle is pointed with each stitch towards the worker1 and the stitches are placed about one-eighth of an inch apart4 ,be very careful to catch both edges1 but do not make your stitches too deep4 ,the overhanding stitch is a strong stitch and is easy to make4 ,it is finished by working backwards from left to right on the edge with three or four of the same stitches4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ba4--,the bean bag board4 ,playing the bean bag game4 ,the boys will surely wish to help prepare the board for the bean bag game4 ,frank ,allen and ,john ,alden made the one used at ,pleasant ,valley school4 ,perhaps there is an old box somewhere which can be braced with sticks and made to stand slanting4 ,the bottom of the box will have to be cut in holes 7see ,fig4 #ba74 ,each hole can be a different shape and numbered #e1 #aj1 #be1 or #ej4 ,the object of the game is to see how high a score can be obtained by throwing the bags through the holes4 ,one should stand six feet or more from the board4 ,each should have ten turns4 ,some one must keep the score4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,mrs4 ,e4 ,j4 ,esselstyn4 ,,fig4 #bb4--;,john ,alden's little brother trying for a high score4 ,the boys will have to help saw or whittle to get the holes just right4 ,do you think you can make both the bags and the game board8 ,the picture 7,fig4 #bb7 shows ,john ,alden's little brother playing the game4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,try to make the bean bag board4 ,perhaps you can think of an easier way4 #b4 ,find five places where the overhanding stitch is used and report at the next lesson4 ,,lesson #f ,,planning ,,to ,,make ,,an ,,apron ,the girls of ,pleasant ,valley school decided to make caps and aprons4 ,they help every day with the preparation of the school lunch4 ,the aprons will keep their dresses clean1 so the girls will look neat and tidy4 ,the aprons can also be used at home4 ,let us too learn how to cut them carefully4 ,the samples which ,marjorie ,allen brought from the store have been examined and studied carefully4 ,the girls know now the difference in appearance between percales1 calicos1 ginghams1 chambrays1 and also how much they cost4 ,most of the girls have decided to make pink and white1 or blue and white1 checked aprons of gingham4 ,it costs #ab-;cents a yard2 and the girls require from two and one-half to three yards1 according to size4 ,they are to make their own pattern for the aprons1 as they are so simple4 ,when they make the petticoats for the ,fresh ,air children1 they will learn to use a commercial pattern4 ,cutting the skirt part4 ,each girl will need two lengths for the skirt part of the apron1 measuring from the armhole at chest1 to the desired length4 ,no pattern is necessary for this skirt part4 ,on each length allow four inches extra for hem4 ,tear one length1 lengthwise2 be careful not to tear it crosswise of the material4 ,the two pieces torn down are to be placed one on each side of the whole width1 with selvedges together4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bc4--,the plan for the yoke of the apron4 ,planning the pattern for the yoke4 ,now the yoke pattern is to be made4 ,miss ,james helped the ,pleasant ,valley girls with the patterns4 ,you will need a good-sized piece of paper1 pencil1 and a tapeline4 ,measure the width of chest from side to side1 just at the armhole in front4 ,look at diagram 7,fig4 #bc72 this measure is the bottom of the yoke4 ,draw a line the length of chest measure across the bottom of your paper4 ,measure up six inches1 and draw a line at right angles to each end of the chest line4 ,this is to find the shoulder4 ,draw a dotted line three inches at right angles to this1 as shown in the diagram4 ,then draw a line three inches to form a third side of the square4 ,do this for the other shoulder and connect the two lines with a line parallel to the chest line4 ,you will have a yoke three inches wide in front4 ,the shoulder lines are too straight2 so draw slanting lines just a little towards the outside or armhole side1 taking off one-half inch on shoulder edge4 ,this is the only pattern needed2 for the back pattern is exactly the same1 but is divided in half and cut straight through the center for the opening in back4 ,cutting the yoke4 ,lay the pattern on the cloth so that the width of chest line is on the filling threads of the cloth4 ,four pieces will be needed4 ,can you double your cloth and cut two at once8 ,the yoke is made double of two thicknesses2 that is why we must cut two pieces for the back and two for the front4 ,cut the two back portions through the center back1 on the thread of material4 ,now our aprons are all cut4 ,carefully roll up the pieces and material left1 for you will need them if you make the caps4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bd4--;,four of the ,pleasant ,valley girls wearing their finished aprons4 ,basting the skirt part4 ,let us make the skirt of the apron first4 ,pin the widths together1 selvedge to selvedge1 to form seams4 ,you all know what the selvedge is4 ,look in the dictionary4 ,how is it made so firm8 ,the whole width is for the center front2 the half width for each side4 ,pin together and baste one-fourth inch seams1 to within #h or #i inches of each length2 this will be left open under each arm4 ,baste also one-fourth inch hems at the outside edges of the side lengths which are raveling4 ,turn the hems to the same side as the seams1 the wrong side4 ,now all the basting is done1 and next time we shall be ready for a new stitch4 ,the picture 7,fig4 #bd7 shows some of the ,pleasant ,valley girls wearing their aprons4 ,can you guess which is ,mollie ,stark or ,barbara ,oakes8 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,look up these words in the dictionary3 selvedge1 warp1 woof1 pattern4 #b4 ,name other materials1 besides gingham1 suitable for work aprons4 ,,lesson #g ,,using ,,the ,,running ,,and ,,back ,,stitch ,,on ,,the ,,apron ,a new stitch called running and back stitch is very useful for seams 7,fig4 #be74 ,it is a quick stitch1 and it is strong4 ,let us learn to make it on the seams of the aprons4 ,we shall need it later for other things4 ,the apron seams are all basted with one-fourth inch seams4 ,the selvedges have not been removed4 ,some day we shall learn to make a seam which will be sewed twice1 and then we shall remove the selvedges4 ,a seam made with one sewing is called a plain seam4 ,the basting is only a temporary stitch4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #be4--;,a new stitch called the running and back stitch4 ,to sew seams4 ,hold the material in the left hand over the fingers1 with thumb on top4 ,you will sew from right to left4 ,start with two or three tiny stitches1 one over the other1 without knot4 ,pull needle through after the starting stitches4 ,now take two or three tiny running stitches2 they are like basting1 only much smaller4 ,as you make the running stitches1 the last one is to be twice the length of the others as the needle is pulled through4 ,this is because the next stitch is to be backwards--a backstitch to cover half the space4 ,on the side towards you1 your row of stitches should look like running stitches2 on the wrong side1 it will be different because of the backstitch4 ,you should have the stitches in a straight row under the line of basting4 ,the backstitch1 which covers half the space left by the running1 is twice the length of the running stitch on the wrong side4 ,this will bring the needle up ahead of the stitch and ready for the next group of running stitches4 ,both seams of the skirt of the apron are to be sewed to within #h or #i inches under the arm4 ,finish with three tiny stitches1 one over another4 ,remove bastings1 and press open the seams4 ,can you not take this home and sew the other long seam there1 now that you know how2 or can you not do it at the meeting of the ,sewing ,league8 ,the girls of ,pleasant ,valley did4 ,sometimes they sat under the big oak trees on ,friday afternoons and had their sewing lessons outdoors4 ,to hem sides4 ,hem sides of apron which you have basted1 making small stitches4 ,you know how4 ,to hem bottom of apron4 ,turn hem at bottom of apron4 ,the cloth should be even4 ,four inches were allowed4 ,the first turn may be one-fourth of an inch2 the second1 three and one-half inches4 ,the other quarter inch allowed is for gathering at top of apron4 ,pin carefully and measure1 with a tapeline or a gauge4 ,can you make a gauge8 ,a piece of cardboard with a notch for one or three inches according to measure desired1 is a gauge4 ,the diagram 7,fig4 #bf7 shows how to cut a one-inch gauge4 ,can you make a three-inch gauge1 and keep your hems even by following the marked notch8 ,baste hems carefully after pinning4 ,hem neatly4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,a gauge for the apron hem4 ,to gather the top of apron4 ,you are now ready to gather the top of the widths4 ,they are to fit into the yoke2 and1 as they are too wide1 we shall have to make them fit4 ,gathering is done by making two rows of running stitches 7small basting stitches71 one under the other4 ,this is done on each width with the rows of running stitches one-fourth of an inch apart4 ,begin with a knot and have your thread a little longer than the width you are gathering4 ,you can then draw the material on the gathering threads1 and make it fit the yoke4 ,let us put the finished skirts of the apron away neatly1 and next lesson sew on the yokes4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,make a three and one-half inch gauge1 using a piece of cardboard or a stiff paper4 #b4 ,practice gathering on a practice piece of cloth4 ,see how quickly you can do it1 putting in two even rows4 ,,lesson #h ,,making ,,and ,,attaching ,,the ,,apron ,,yokes ,the yokes are to be seamed at the shoulders4 ,there are two yokes2 one is for the lining4 ,let us sew them together and attach them to the skirt of the apron4 ,to make the yoke4 ,pin the two back portions of yoke to the one front portion4 ,baste at shoulder seams one-fourth of an inch4 ,sew with running and back stitch1 which you used for the apron skirt4 ,make the lining yoke in same way4 ,sew two back portions to one front4 ,when both yoke and lining are ready1 pin together so that the two right sides are together and seams match at shoulders4 ,baste carefully together all around with one-fourth inch seams only1 except across the bottom at width of chest line4 ,be careful not to take deeper seams1 for then the yoke will be too small4 ,the chest line width of the yoke is left open so the skirt can be placed between4 ,the back portions of the yoke are also left open at the bottom4 ,after basting1 sew below the basting with running and back stitch4 ,remove the bastings and turn the yoke inside out4 ,crease edges carefully4 ,your yoke will lap one-half inch in back when finished4 ,now you are ready to attach the skirt to the yoke4 ,to attach the yoke4 ,you will attach the front of the yoke to the front gathered width4 ,find the center of front yoke4 ,mark with pin4 ,find the center of gathered width4 ,place the right side of the yoke to the right side of the skirt width1 center to center2 and pin4 ,do not pin the lining yoke1 for it is to be sewed down later to cover the seam you will now make4 ,pin the ends of the width to the ends of the front yoke4 ,pull your gathering thread until the fullness fits the yoke2 then move the gathers along until they fall evenly4 ,can you not distribute the gathers carefully1 as you pin them to the yoke8 ,hold the gathers towards you1 and baste with a one-fourth inch seam1 not any more4 ,now sew securely with the strong stitching stitch1 which you used on the bean bags4 ,to place the yoke lining4 ,you are ready now to cover these rough edges of the seam with the lining4 ,turn in one-fourth of an inch to match the width of the seam taken from the yoke4 ,baste flat to the seam so that the edge of the turned lining just covers the sewing of the yoke seam4 ,finish with a neat hemming stitch4 ,do you not think you can join the two back portions of the yoke to the skirt portions of the apron without any further help8 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,find three places where you think running and back stitch can be used4 #b4 ,notice other places where gathers are drawn in to fit a space4 ,mollie ,stark discovered several places on the garments worn by the children at school4 ,,lesson #i ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,buttonhole ,the apron is now entirely finished1 except for fastenings4 ,shall we learn to make a buttonhole1 and how to sew on buttons8 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls had a contest4 ,barbara ,oakes won a prize at the ,pleasant ,valley ,county ,fair4 ,practice in making the buttonhole4 ,long ago little girls were taught to make buttonholes1 when they were five or six years of age4 ,grandmother ,allen learned at that age4 ,surely by the time a girl is twelve years old she should begin to learn how to make buttonholes4 ,one must practice on a scrap of cloth1 before making the buttonhole on the garment4 ,these are the steps to consider in practicing3 #a4 ,decide about placing the buttonhole4 ,is it to be in a vertical or horizontal position on the garment8 ,how far from the edge8 #b4 ,cutting4 #c4 ,overcasting the cut edges4 ,how deep and how far apart to take the stitches4 ,correct position to hold work4 #d4 ,making buttonhole stitch along one edge4 #e4 ,turning corner4 #f4 ,turning and buttonholing opposite edge4 #g4 ,finishing second end4 ,placing the buttonhole4 ,it is important to place the buttonhole correctly4 ,in some garments1 where there is no strain1 as in the front of a shirtwaist or of loose corset cover1 the buttonholes can be made to run up and down4 ,one should decide how far from the edge and exactly where the buttonhole is needed4 ,mark the place with pinholes4 ,for the apron place three buttonholes in the yoke1 one in middle and others near each end1 about one-fourth inch from the edge of the yoke at center back4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bg4--;,cutting the buttonhole4 ,cutting the buttonhole4 ,one should cut truly and exactly1 on a thread4 ,if a pair of buttonhole scissors is not available1 fold the material halfway between the pin pricks which marked its location1 so that the pin passes through both ends of the located buttonhole4 ,cut from the folded edge to the pin1 by placing the fold well within the opened scissors and cutting evenly 7,fig4 #bg74 ,for the apron cut one-half inch buttonholes and one-fourth of an inch in from the edge4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bh4--,the overcasting stitch for rough edges4 ,overcasting the buttonhole4 ,you have not all learned the overcasting stitch4 ,practice it on a scrap of cloth4 ,look at the picture 7,fig4 #bh7 carefully4 ,the overcasting stitch is used on edges to prevent raveling4 ,hold the buttonhole along the top of the first finger4 ,begin without knot1 and at the end farthest away from a finished edge2 as at the end of skirt band or edge of waist4 ,work over end of thread4 ,point needle toward left shoulder to make a slanting stitch4 ,make about three or four stitches on each side of the buttonhole 7,fig4 #bi74 ,the depth should be about one-eighth of an inch4 ,the corner stitches should be taken so that the needle is pointed at right angles to the cut before the buttonhole is turned4 ,do not forget that1 after one side is overcast1 it is necessary to turn the buttonhole around so the other cut edge may be overcast4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bi4--,overcasting the cut buttonhole4 ,making the buttonhole stitch4 ,when the buttonhole has been overcast1 the needle should be in position at the beginning of the buttonhole where the overcasting was started4 ,point the needle at right angles to the edge1 and take a stitch one-eighth of an inch deep 7,fig4 #cj74 ,hold buttonhole so that it lies flat on top of the first finger4 ,do not spread it open4 ,throw the double thread from the eye of the needle1 around the point1 in the same direction as the buttonhole is being worked1 from right to left4 ,draw needle through1 pulling the thread at right angles to and toward the cut edge of the buttonhole4 ,a little finishing loop called the purl will be formed at the edge4 ,it is this which prevents the edge of the buttonhole from wearing4 ,continue along one edge until the corner is reached4 ,remember all stitches are to be the same depth and to have about the space of a thread between stitches1 and the purl is to lie exactly on the edge4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cj4--,the buttonhole stitch4 ,turning the corner4 ,there are several ways of finishing the corners of buttonholes4 ,they may have two fan ends1 or one fan and one bar1 or two barred ends4 ,how can we tell which way to plan8 ,a barred end is stronger than one which has only a fan4 ,one must judge how the buttonhole is to be used1 and then make the proper combination of ends4 ,the picture 7,fig4 #ca7 shows both the fan and the bar4 ,the fan is made with the same buttonhole stitch4 ,five stitches make a good fan4 ,the third one is taken on a line with the cut and is the deepest1 and the two stitches each side are slanting and of a depth to make an even fan effect at the turn4 ,the fan can be made more easily by turning the buttonhole so that the end to be worked with the fan is pointed towards the worker and the cut edge is over the finger4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ca4--,the fan end and the bar end of the buttonhole4 ,buttonholing second side4 ,after making the fan1 turn the buttonhole1 and along the second side make the buttonhole stitch of the same depth and evenness as along the first side4 ,finishing second end4 ,practice a bar end4 ,turn buttonhole so that the end to be finished lies across finger with fan end towards the worker4 ,make two or three small stitches one over the other to bar the end1 these to extend across width of buttonhole stitches4 ,over these the blanket stitch is to be placed4 ,this is very easy4 ,look at the picture 7,fig4 #hb7 of it on page #ach4 ,these stitches are to be taken close together and through the cloth1 around the three barred stitches4 ,this makes a firm finish4 ,point the needle towards the worker and make a straight row of blanket stitches4 ,sewing on a button4 ,start with a double thread1 and make two stitches one over the other on the right side of the garment4 ,string a button on the needle1 to cover starting stitches4 ,place a pin on top of the button4 ,sew over it with stitches crossed back and forth through the holes of the button4 ,the stitches should be taken so that the pull of the button will come on the warp threads of the garment4 ,on the wrong side1 the stitches should appear in parallel bars lying on the woof or filling thread4 ,on the top of the button1 the stitches should cross4 ,why is it necessary to sew over the pin8 ,remove the pin and wind thread around the stitches under the button4 ,finish on wrong side with several finishing stitches4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cb4--,the pin prevents the button from being sewed too near the cloth and allows space for buttoning the garment4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,practice overcasting4 #b4 ,practice blanket stitch4 #c4 ,practice making buttonhole4 a4 ,cutting4 b4 ,overcasting4 c4 ,buttonholing4 d4 ,fan4 e4 ,buttonholing4 f4 ,bar4 #d4 ,practice sewing on one button at home and making one buttonhole4 #e4 ,bring to school garments which need buttons4 ,sew the buttons on4 ,,lesson #aj ,,the ,,use ,,of ,,the ,,commercial ,,pattern ,have you ever bought a real pattern and tried to use it8 ,marjorie ,allen says she thinks sometimes it is quite like a puzzle4 ,let us learn how to cut our petticoats from a real pattern4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cc4--,learning to cut a free-hand pattern4 ,can you cut a pattern8 ,perhaps you have cut patterns for sister's dolls' clothing 7,fig4 #cc74 ,this is probably how you did it4 ,you pinned the paper to the doll's body or held it in place while you cut around the armhole1 across the shoulder1 under the chin for the curved neck1 and then you cut the other shoulder and armhole in the same way4 ,under the arm you made a slanting cut towards the feet so the dress or apron would be wider at the bottom4 ,try this if you have never done it4 ,it is good fun4 ,marjorie dressed a doll for little ,alice when she was sick1 and cut the pattern in this way4 ,this is a free and easy way to make patterns4 ,some dressmakers make patterns in this way and do not have to send to the store for a pattern4 ,shall we send for a pattern8 ,patterns are bought by age or by measure3 a nightdress1 drawers1 or a skirt pattern is ordered for fourteen year age2 a shirtwaist for #cd inch bust measure4 ,patterns sometimes give other measures2 a dress skirt may state the waist measure1 the length of skirt1 and the measure around the hips4 ,for children and for young girls1 the patterns can nearly always be bought according to age2 but1 as some girls are large for their age and some small1 ,miss ,james will have to help order the right sizes4 ,many good magazines offer patterns for sale4 ,there are1 also1 stores or firms which make a business of selling nothing but patterns4 ,some patterns are better than others4 ,the simplest are usually the best1 if the figure and its proportions have been kept in mind4 ,let us open our skirt pattern4 ,we have bought two3 one a #ab-year size1 and one a #ad-year4 ,the smaller girls may use the #ab-year size1 and the larger girls the #ad-year size4 ,how many pieces are there for this pattern8 ,barbara stood before the class1 and ,julia held the pieces where she thought they would belong in the skirt4 ,yes1 surely the strip is for the belt or band4 ,is it long enough8 ,no1 only half4 ,what are the other two pieces8 ,yes1 one is for the back4 ,is it large enough8 ,no1 only half4 ,only one piece is left4 ,it must be the front4 ,is it large enough8 ,many patterns are made1 giving only half a front or half a belt4 ,such pieces must be cut double when you wish to have the front or belt in one piece4 ,the way to do this is to pin the pattern on a folded edge of the cloth4 ,we will know if we consult the perforations on the pattern1 and the printed directions4 ,we must do this1 then1 in cutting the front4 ,let us hold the pattern to the light4 ,what do you see8 ,why do you suppose the little holes or perforations have been arranged in groups or straight rows8 ,barbara said she could not understand why4 ,it is all a secret which the description on the pattern will tell4 ,to-day we shall learn two things3 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cd4--,laying the pattern on the cloth4 ,which do you think is the fold edge1 ,a or ,b8 #a4 ,how to tell which portion of the pattern is to be placed on the warp of the cloth4 #b4 ,when to place the half pattern on a folded edge1 so as to cut the portion in one piece instead of in half a piece like the pattern4 ,the pattern may say the long line of single perforations is to be placed on the warp threads4 ,can you do that when we begin to cut8 ,you will have to be careful to find the warp and to lay the pattern exactly4 ,the pattern may say the group of three little perforations or holes at the edge of the front pattern means that edge is to be placed on a straight fold of the cloth4 ,it is wise always to study all the pieces of a pattern4 ,the parts are usually numbered4 ,can you see how8 ,the description on the pattern tells the name of each piece4 ,very often only half of a portion is given4 ,you will always remember now what must be done when that occurs4 ,it is a good thing always to know each portion and to hold it up to the person to see if it is too large or too small4 ,then you will understand the parts1 before you begin to cut4 ,sometimes it is necessary to add to the length or to shorten the pattern4 ,some patterns say allow for seams in cutting1 and others say seams have been allowed4 ,what difference will this make when you begin to cut8 ,shall we learn to take a few measurements8 ,then we can judge if our pattern is too large or too small4 ,it will also help you in sending for patterns4 ,the bust measure is easy to take4 ,pass the tape measure under the arms1 and over the fullest part of the bust1 not too tight2 bring it to the center of the back1 sloping the tape slightly upward between the shoulder blades4 ,the waist measure is a snug measure around the smallest part of the waist4 ,for girls this measure should not be too snug4 ,the skirt measures are taken from the waist line to the floor at the front1 at the sides over the hips1 and at the back4 ,for short skirts one must deduct from the full lengths the number of inches desired from the floor4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,open a pattern and see if you can tell the different parts4 ,which are to be cut on a folded edge8 ,how are you to tell which way the pattern is to lie on the warp threads8 #b4 ,practice taking a skirt measure2 then1 a waist measure4 ,,lesson #aa ,,taking ,,measurements ,,and ,,cutting ,,out ,,the ,,petticoat ,we understand our skirt patterns4 ,let us take our skirt measures1 front and back1 and1 if it is necessary to change our pattern1 we will decide how much to add or take off before cutting the garments4 ,to change pattern4 ,if you must add two or three inches to the length of your pattern1 this must be done as you cut4 ,or possibly you may wish to shorten the pattern4 ,if you wish to shorten it1 take a plait of one inch about in the middle of your pattern1 crease1 and pin it4 ,by taking this plait rather than cutting off the amount from the bottom1 the good flare of the skirt is saved4 ,do you know what these pieces of the skirt are called which are wider at the bottom than at the top8 ,why is a gore made such a shape8 ,can you think of the advantages8 ,in cutting from a pattern in which a plait has been laid1 one must be careful to carry the outline of the pattern evenly at the place where the fold of the plait comes4 ,to lengthen a pattern4 ,make a straight cut across a gore about the middle from side to side4 ,pin or paste a strip of paper the desired extra length between the two pieces4 ,this preserves the bottom flare4 ,if length were added at the bottom1 the flare would be too great4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ce4--,the petticoat for the children of the home4 ,to cut the skirts4 ,one must study carefully the economical use of material4 ,it is like a puzzle to fit the pattern to the cloth1 so that the perforations are obeyed exactly and there is enough cloth for all the parts4 ,the girls of ,pleasant ,valley have decided to make the petticoats for the children at the summer home4 ,the ladies of the board furnished the materials4 ,they have chosen gingham for some and outing flannel for others4 ,the belts are to be made of muslin4 ,the material is all one yard wide4 ,by folding the outing flannel selvedge to selvedge1 and placing the triple perforations of the pattern of the front gore on this fold1 the front can be cut all in one piece4 ,it is rather a circular gore4 ,not all gores are the same shape4 ,see if you can find other shaped gores in dress skirts4 ,the two back gores of the skirt can be cut from another width4 ,be sure to obey the directions for placing the perforations on the warp4 ,how many lengths of cloth are needed to cut such a skirt8 ,how much will you allow for hems at the bottom8 ,as the girls of ,pleasant ,valley had decided on two inches finished1 they allowed #b-;inches extra in cutting4 ,one must always think about this4 ,all seams have been allowed on their patterns4 ,be sure to lay all the pieces of the pattern on the cloth before cutting4 ,find a flat surface4 ,remember that the wide end of a gore is apt to cut to better advantage at the end of the piece of cloth4 ,can the gores be fitted so as to cut more economically8 7,fig4 #cd47 ,pin the parts carefully1 not using too many pins4 ,mark all the notches with pencil1 chalk1 or basting thread4 ,do not cut notches2 one is liable to be careless and to make them too large4 ,use long cuts1 and make even edges in cutting4 ,good shears help4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,draw on the blackboard different shaped dress gores which you have noticed4 #b4 ,with the tiny patterns of the skirt which your teacher has cut1 show how to lay them most economically on the red muslin which represents your material4 #c4 ,what would you do if you were using a pattern which did not allow for seams8 ,,lesson #ab ,,making ,,the ,,petticoats ,let us begin to sew the petticoats4 ,notice all the notches which were marked lightly with pencil1 and follow all the steps carefully3 #a4 ,place the two back portions so that they join the front as the notches indicate4 #b4 ,pin from the top of the gores4 #c4 ,baste the three gores together with -inch seams1 beginning at the bottom4 ,can you tell why8 #d4 ,sew the seams on the wrong side1 using the stitching stitch4 ,the back seam is to be left open five inches at the top for the placket opening4 #e4 ,overcast all the seam edges1 overcasting the two thicknesses of the seams together4 #f4 ,turn hems at the bottom of the skirt4 ,first1 turn -inch2 second1 turn two inches4 ,baste carefully1 laying little plaits neatly where necessary on account of extra fullness4 ,always have the seams of the turned hem lie on seams of skirt4 ,sew hem with hemming stitch or featherstitch 7see page #abj74 #g4 ,finish placket opening4 ,on right side make -inch hem1 the first turn and second -inch4 ,turn hem to inside of skirt4 ,baste and hem4 ,on left side of opening make hem -inch finished4 ,make first turn and second -inch4 ,baste and hem neatly4 #h4 ,to put the skirt on the band3 ,a4 ,cut band4 ,take waist measure2 add to it one inch for lapping and two inches for the turnings1 one at each end of band4 ,cut band lengthwise of the muslin1 with the warp threads1 and twice the desired width finished plus -inch for turnings4 ,b4 ,gather petticoat -inch from edge1 with two gathering threads one below the other4 ,divide skirt in half2 gather from center front to back at right side1 and from center front to back at left side4 ,c4 ,turn in ends of band one inch4 ,pin center of band to center front of petticoat1 right side of band to right side of petticoat4 ,pin so that the edge of band is even with the gathered edge of skirt4 ,pin ends of band to the gathered back portions of skirt1 with ends of bands to ends of gathers4 ,turn gathers towards worker1 and distribute in same manner as when attaching yoke of apron to the apron skirt4 ,baste -inch from edge of band1 and between the two rows of gathering stitches4 ,sew with stitching stitch4 ,turn band over to wrong side4 ,turn in -inch4 ,baste and hem flat4 ,overhand the turned-in ends of the band neatly4 ,d4 ,finish with buttonhole and button at back1 or with two buttonholes1 to button to waist4 ,if the skirt is to be attached in this way1 a buttonhole should be made in the center front of the band also4 ,this should be up and down in the band4 ,the girls of ,pleasant ,valley had a surprise party1 when the aprons were finished1 and went to the ,fresh ,air ,home4 ,this was in ,june before school closed4 ,some of the summer children had arrived4 ,the girls made cookies at home and had a real party with the children4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,tell how the putting on of the skirt band differs from putting on the apron yoke4 #b4 ,do you know of any other kind of placket finish besides the one which you have made in the skirt8 ,tell where you have seen it4 ,,review ,,problems ,i4 ,can you make a useful bag on which the following stitches might be used3 basting1 running1 hemming1 stitching stitch1 overhanding1 buttonhole8 ,,ii4 ,plan another article1 using as many of these stitches as possible1 and cutting the article from a pattern4 ,try to make this at home for school credit4 ,miss ,james of ,pleasant ,valley has a kind of score card which she uses in marking the girls4 ,perhaps your teacher will give you credit for your home work4 ,,score ,,card ,girl's name ,i4 ,article ,a4 ,general appearance #a4 ,general neatness of sewing #aj #b4 ,cleanliness #ae #c4 ,appropriateness of material #be ,b4 ,hand work #a4 ,regularity of stitches #be #b4 ,suitability of stitches #be ---- #ajj ,illustration ,,chapter ,,ii ,,the ,,girls ,,of ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,school ,,learn ,,to ,,make ,,simple ,,garments ,this year the girls of the ,sewing ,league of ,pleasant ,valley will receive credit for the garments they make4 ,miss ,james will help the girls to start the garments at school and will give full credit if the work is completed neatly4 ,a nightdress1 a petticoat1 corset cover1 or under slip1 and perhaps a white summer dress skirt will be made4 ,the school board has just furnished a machine1 so ,miss ,james is planning to teach the girls to use it4 ,many of them can practice at home too4 ,mrs4 ,stark1 who has two machines1 told ,mollie she might bring the girls at any time for practice4 ,can you plan to learn to stitch at your school8 ,there are many things one does not wish to sew by hand1 and does not have time to make in that way4 ,not long ago ,miss ,travers1 who came from the ,state ,agricultural ,college to speak to the ,mothers' ,club at ,pleasant ,valley1 told them that often people do not use good common sense about this question4 ,she said there are times when one wishes to make garments and articles by hand1 but it is foolish to do so when one has other duties in life to perform which are more important4 ,handmade garments are very beautiful to look at1 but when they mean the sacrifice of health1 because one has remained indoors to make them1 they appear less beautiful4 ,miss ,travers and the mothers had a long discussion about the wages paid in large cities to women who do this fine work4 ,miss ,travers said the wage paid is usually very low4 ,,lesson #a ,,some ,,cotton ,,materials ,,suitable ,,for ,,underwear ,suppose you order the muslin for your nightdress and1 while waiting for it to arrive1 learn about the cotton materials which can be used for underwear4 ,can you add a whole page of white materials to your textile books8 ,suppose you open the surprise box on your teacher's desk4 ,it is quite full4 ,let us sort the samples and examine the white ones1 especially1 to-day2 for your underwear is to be made of white cotton material4 ,let us look also at the ones which are almost white4 ,they are unbleached white2 the others have been bleached with a chemical to make them look so snowy white4 ,they have been dipped in a bath of chloride of lime1 and then in another bath of water and sulphuric acid1 until the material has become white4 ,do you know how our grandmothers used to bleach sheets and other unbleached articles which they wished to have white8 ,grandmother ,allen used to bleach those she made on her hand loom4 ,why did they place them on the grass in the sun8 ,what bleached them8 ,this unbleached sample is muslin2 it is for sheets4 ,here is some white which is of the same plain weave4 ,the unbleached is cheaper4 ,it comes one yard wide and can be bought for #e cents and1 in better qualities1 up to #ae cents per yard4 ,it wears very well--better than bleached muslin4 ,can you tell why8 ,it is used for sheets and pillowcases4 ,we may later make a pair of pillowcases from this unbleached muslin4 ,the white muslin can be bought in a cheap quality for #g cents a yard2 and it may also be bought in finer qualities4 ,here is a piece of ,alpine rose muslin from our sample box4 ,isn't that a pretty name for it8 ,it is soft and much finer1 and costs #cj cents a yard4 ,bleached muslins come in width from #cf to #gb inches4 ,the wide width is used for sheetings and is woven that width that no seam may be necessary through the center of the sheet4 ,this soft1 light cotton material is called nainsook4 ,isn't that a queer name8 ,it is from an old ,hindoo word for a material made and used in ,india4 ,nainsook is used for underwear and clothing for baby4 ,it comes in several grades4 ,miss ,james has some coarser samples1 too4 ,it is soft and is nearly always finished1 when woven1 with very little dressing or starch to stiffen it4 ,it comes #bg inches in width and varies in price from #ae to #ej cents a yard4 ,this soft crinkly looking material is called cotton crpe4 ,it is used a great deal for underwear and for shirt waists or dresses4 ,it is considered very economical4 ,does any one know why8 ,yes1 because it is easily washed and1 when hung out in the fresh air and sunshine1 does not need to be ironed4 ,think of all the time saved4 ,the little crinkles dry in place and look well4 ,it costs from #ab to #ae cents per yard1 and comes about #cj inches wide4 ,this piece is a cambric4 ,it is a firm plain weave and is good for underwear4 ,this quality is fine1 and its name is ,berkeley cambric4 ,some grades of cambric are coarser and are called cambric muslin4 ,they are glazed and smooth in finish1 and are used for linings and for other purposes4 ,that name is also foreign1 from ,cambrai1 ,france4 ,cambric is woven a yard wide and costs from #aj to #be cents per yard4 ,it is very durable material for underwear1 not quite so heavy as muslin1 and strong4 ,dimity is thin4 ,look at this piece4 ,mollie had a dress made of it last summer4 ,it is sheer and light1 and has little cords or ribs4 ,it is always easy to recognize on that account4 ,it is used for summer dresses1 sometimes for dainty underwear2 but it is not suitable for underwear which must have hard usage every day4 ,it costs from #ae to #ej cents per yard and is woven about a yard wide4 ,sometimes it comes in colors and also with pretty printed figures on it4 ,see1 here are some printed ones4 ,what dainty patterns and colors6 ,would you like a dress of one of these8 ,miss ,james has found two other thin1 sheer1 white ones4 ,there are so many ,i wonder if we can remember all4 ,this thin one is lawn and is a plain weave4 ,it comes in inexpensive qualities at #e cents and in better qualities for #be cents4 ,the width varies from #cf to #dj inches4 ,do you know of anything at home or in school1 made of lawn8 ,yes1 dresses1 aprons1 curtains4 ,it comes in colors too2 here is a pretty blue4 ,it is smooth and starched and pressed when one buys it4 ,this other is soft but not so starched4 ,it is called mull4 ,that is a ,hindoo word1 too4 ,do you remember that cotton was grown in ,india many years before we had it in ,america2 that is why the cotton materials so often have ,indian names4 ,mull is too fine for underwear1 but it is used for pretty white dresses4 ,here are two heavy white samples2 one is called ,indian head1 and the other duck4 ,such strange names6 ,do you know their uses8 ,perhaps your mother had a skirt last summer of duck or ,indian ,head4 ,mrs4 ,alden of ,pleasant ,valley had one4 ,both these cotton materials wear well4 ,the duck is used for men's trousers1 also2 and in very heavy qualities1 it is used for sails or tents and awnings4 ,john ,alden's first long trousers were made of duck4 ,how important he felt6 ,duck is sometimes colored blue or other colors4 ,it varies in width from #bg to #cf inches and costs from #ab cents up4 ,the ,indian head is used for the same purposes as duck and comes in the same width for about the same price1--#ae cents a yard up1 according to quality4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cf4--;,a towel which ,miss ,james uses at school4 ,we shall have time to study about only two more to-day4 ,they are both heavy4 ,this is galatea1 and comes in white1 like this sample1 or in colors4 ,it is firm like duck and ,indian head4 ,can you tell for what it is used8 ,have you ever seen any before8 ,it is used for dress skirts1 and very often for girls' middy blouses or children's clothes4 ,it washes very well4 ,it is #bg inches wide and costs from #ad to #be cents a yard4 ,the last sample is cotton birdseye or huckaback4 ,it is sold by the yard or by the piece4 ,it costs less per yard to buy it by the piece of #aj yards4 ,it varies in cost1 according to quality1 and is woven from #ah to #bg inches wide4 ,we also have huckaback towels made of cotton or linen or a mixture of cotton and linen4 ,here is one which ,miss ,james uses at school 7,fig4 #cf74 ,i wonder who can go to the board and make a list of all the new white material we have found in the surprise box4 ,shall we put them in our sample book8 ,who will write the use of each1 opposite the name8 ,if you cannot remember the prices and widths1 look on the samples2 many are marked1 especially those which have come from the town store4 ,which do you think will be best for your nightgowns8 ,yes1 cambric1 nainsook1 or muslin4 ,which will be softest and lightest8 ,which is the heaviest of these three8 ,shall we use the muslin8 ,it is strong and will wear well4 ,shall we choose this piece8 ,it is #aj cents a yard4 ,how much shall we need8 ,we shall talk about it next lesson4 ,any one who wishes to use the unbleached muslin which costs #g cents1 may do so2 or the finer nainsook which is #ae cents a yard4 ,how can the unbleached be made white as it is used8 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,look up the story of how cloth is bleached in any of the library books on textiles1 or in the encyclopedia4 #b4 ,add six cotton materials you have just studied about1 to your textile sample books4 #c4 ,decide what kind of white material you wish to use for your nightdress4 ,,lesson #b ,,selecting ,,pattern ,,and ,,cloth ,,for ,,nightdress ,suppose you decide about the pattern for your nightdresses1 and send for the cloth and pattern4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cg4--;,a ,pleasant ,valley girl in a kimono nightdress4 ,a kimono nightdress4 ,miss ,james has a book of patterns2 perhaps your teacher has4 ,let us look at them4 ,here are the nightdresses4 ,this picture 7,fig4 #cg7 is a kimono nightdress2 that means the sleeves are cut with the gown all in one1 not made separately and sewed in4 ,this name kimono is ,japanese and means a loose garment4 ,the picture shows a ,pleasant ,valley girl in a kimono nightdress4 ,miss ,james says there is only one piece to this pattern and the nightdress is easy to make4 ,the way to measure for the amount of material for such a gown is to take the length from the shoulder at the side of the neck to the floor and add three inches for a hem4 ,this gown can be cut without any shoulder seams1 all in one piece4 ,so you will need twice the length from shoulder to floor and hem4 ,why8 ,if the cloth is one yard or more wide1 it will not be necessary to piece the gown2 so be sure to choose material which is a yard wide4 ,is there any one now who does not know how to measure for the material for the kimono nightdress8 ,let all write an order for a kimono nightdress pattern and for the muslin4 ,take each other's measures first and add together the amount of cloth needed4 ,it will be easier to send one order for all4 ,the best letter will be chosen to send to the store4 ,as some girls are large and some small for their ages1 it will be wise to order one pattern #ab-year size1 and another #ad-year size4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,how much cloth will be needed for a kimono nightdress if the measure of the girl from shoulder to floor is #ee inches8 ,how much do you suppose the ,pleasant ,valley girl in the picture needed8 ,,lesson #c ,,how ,,cotton ,,cloth ,,is ,,woven ,not long ago we learned how the cotton plant furnishes us with cotton for clothing4 ,there are many people who help in changing the cotton from fiber to cloth4 ,while you are waiting for the cotton material and the pattern1 shall we study how cotton cloth is made8 ,cotton is used for many things4 ,we learned that cotton is shipped in bales of #ejj pounds each from the ,united ,states to all parts of the world4 ,the manufacturer receives it at the factory and changes it by many processes into what he wishes to sell4 ,some manufacturers make only cotton threads of various kinds1 for sewing1 knitting1 and crocheting4 ,others make cotton cloth of one variety or of several varieties4 ,we know there are many kinds manufactured4 ,others make absorbent cotton1 gauze1 and such things for surgical use for the sick4 ,some make hosiery1 gloves1 towels2 and others make knitted underwear1 or laces and embroideries4 ,others use cotton for war purposes1 for guncotton4 ,john ,alden said he did not know that cotton is used for so many things4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ch4--,miss ,james' little loom4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ci4--;,a small loom made from a box cover4 ,the loom for weaving cotton4 ,we have learned that cloth is made of threads which run lengthwise1 called the warp threads1 and of crosswise threads1 called the filling or woof4 ,the machine for holding the threads and doing the work is called a loom4 ,what is the firm edge which is woven called8 ,look at ,miss ,james' little loom 7,fig4 #ch74 ,it shows the warp1 and the filling yarn as it passes over and under and makes the firm edge as it turns each trip back and forth around the edge threads4 ,if you have never woven a piece of material1 suppose you take a box cover and make a small loom4 ,the picture 7,fig4 #ci7 shows one made at ,pleasant ,valley ,school4 ,did you ever see your grandmother weave on a loom8 ,look at the picture 7,fig4 #dj7 of a grandmother weaving on a cloth loom4 ,it is not ,grandmother ,allen1 although she knows how to weave4 ,the warp threads are rolled up on a big roller at the back of the loom and are extended to the cloth roller at the front near where she sits4 ,she holds the filling thread in her hand4 ,it is wound on a bobbin which fits in the shuttle4 ,she throws the shuttle from side to side and works her feet to alternate the warp threads1 in order that the filling thread may go over and under1 and make the cloth4 ,look at the shuttle in the picture 7,fig4 #da72 it holds the bobbin of thread4 ,there are many kinds of looms4 ,to-day cloth is woven on looms run by machinery4 ,it is much easier and quicker than working by hand1 and so cotton cloth can be made more cheaply4 ,frank ,allen says he saw a loom at the silk factory he visited4 ,if it were not for machines1 our clothes would cost much more than they do4 ,think of all the people who help to give us our cotton clothes1 from the planter who sows the seed to the manufacturer whose men prepare and weave it4 ,have you ever visited a cloth factory and seen the many machines and heard the great buzzing noise which they make8 ,it is a busy place4 ,some factories make only warp1 or filling1 yarns4 ,they are called spinning factories or mills 7,fig4 #df74 ,they send their product to the other manufacturers who have only weaving machines for making the yarns into cloth4 ,it is about #acj years 7#aghi7 since the first cotton mill was started in the ,united ,states1 and only a few years longer since the first mill was started in ,england4 ,before that time1 people of different countries made their own looms according to the ways they thought out4 ,as men felt the need of clothing to wear1 they tried to make cloth2 and we find all kinds of primitive looms as their invention4 ,can you look up the meaning of primitive8 ,notice the two pictures 7,figs4 #dc and #dd7 of primitive people weaving4 ,the ,indian girl is holding the shuttle in her right hand2 the loom is fastened to something and is also attached at her belt4 ,in that way the warp threads are held securely while she passes the filling back and forth4 ,on page #acf you will find a picture 7,fig4 #ha7 of a ,japanese girl weaving silk4 ,notice the loom2 find the roller holding the warp yarn4 ,find the shuttle which she uses to throw the filling yarn4 ,can you tell where she rolls the cloth as it is woven8 ,under her elbows in the picture is a cloth roller on which she rolls up the woven cloth as she weaves and unrolls the warp from the warp roller4 ,isn't this a wonderful story8 ,we have not yet learned how the cotton is made into the warp and filling ready to be woven4 ,we shall save that part of the story for to-morrow4 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls and boys enjoyed this part of the story about cotton and are anxious for ,miss ,james to tell some more4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,draper ,co41 ,hopedale1 ,mass4 ,,fig4 #dj4--;,in days gone by4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #da4--,the shuttle holding the bobbin of yarn4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,draper ,co41 ,hopedale1 ,mass4 ,,fig4 #db4--;,a weaving room in a modern factory4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,smithsonian ,institute1 ,bureau of ,american ,ethnology4 ,,fig4 #dc4--;,indian girl weaving a belt by hand4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dd4--;,another primitive loom and a girl spinning4 ,the distaff with the wool for spinning is held under the girl's arm4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,try to make a simple loom4 ,take a piece of cardboard #aj #ab inches4 ,make a row of holes about -inch apart one inch from the top2 another row -inch apart one inch from bottom4 ,string the warp back and forth from hole to hole so it looks like the picture 7,fig4 #ci74 ,weave a piece of cloth with the filling thread which goes over and under4 #b4 ,visit a weaving factory if you can4 #c4 ,see if you can spin a piece of carded wool4 ,perhaps you can card some wool with the hand cards which your great grandmother used1 as the ,pleasant ,valley girls did4 #d4 ,try to collect pictures of spinning4 ,the primitive peoples did this in different ways4 ,,lesson #d ,,the ,,spinning ,,of ,,cotton ,,into ,,yarn ,how the manufacturer turns the cotton into yarn ready for the weaver4 ,this is called spinning4 ,shall we study how it is done8 ,perhaps there is some one in your class who has visited a spinning mill and can tell how cotton is cleaned and made ready for weaving4 ,this is what the girls of the ,sewing ,league of ,pleasant ,valley saw the day they went to visit the mill4 ,the ,camp ,fire girls went the same day1 and ,miss ,ashly1 their guardian1 said that what they learned would count as an honor4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #de4--,the cotton carding machine1 which cleans the cotton4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,leonard ,green1 ,boston4 ,,fig4 #df4--;,a cotton spinning room4 ,how cotton is prepared for spinning4 ,the girls went to the lower floor where the cotton is received4 ,they saw the bags and iron bands removed and the cotton pulled apart by a queer machine called a cotton opener1 or bale breaker1 for you remember the cotton was pressed very hard before being shipped4 ,the cotton is then placed in pickers1 or machines which blow it apart and blow out the leaves and dust and dirt4 ,as the cotton leaves this machine1 it looks like a big piece 7#f ft4 wide7 of cotton batting rolled in a large roll4 ,it looks soft and clean4 ,then the girls watched the men place this roll at the back of the next machine1 called a carding machine 7,fig4 #de74 ,here it was cleaned some more2 and such a wonderful thing happened4 ,as it left the machine instead of coming out as a lap of the roll of cotton like it went in1 it came out in a long thick coil which looked like a rope1 and there were tall round cans ready to receive this continuous line of cotton rope4 ,how soft and beautiful it looked6 ,what wonderful machines the manufacturer had4 ,some one must have made them4 ,can you find out who made the first loom run by machinery8 ,john ,alden looked it up in the encyclopedia4 ,do you know who invented the first spinning machine8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dg4--;,grandmother ,allen's wheel used for spinning wool4 ,then the girls visited ever so many machines which wound this cotton rope on spools4 ,each machine made the rope thinner and finer until it was drawn out as thin and round as the manufacturer wished 7,fig4 #df74 ,barbara ,oakes noticed this3 that these spinning machines not only drew out the cotton rope and made it thinner1 but put in a twist which prevented it from breaking so easily4 ,do you remember how the cotton fiber looked under the microscope8 ,the twist in the fiber helps in the spinning4 ,isn't it wonderful to think that such tiny fibers can be made into spinning yarns1 and yarns woven into cloth8 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of the ,metropolitan ,museum of ,art4 ,,fig4 #dh4 --,the flax wheel4 ,how cotton is spun4 ,did you ever see any one spin by hand8 ,one day the ,girls' ,league went to ,marjorie ,allen's grandmother's house4 ,she took the girls to the attic and showed them her grandmother's spinning wheels 7,fig4 #dg74 ,there was a large one for spinning woolen yarn4 ,this she called the great wheel4 ,then there was a small one called the flax wheel 7,fig4 #dh7 for spinning flax1 or linen1 into yarn for weaving4 ,grandmother sat down and showed them how to spin 7,fig4 #di74 ,she pressed her foot on the treadle just like a sewing machine2 and the wheels went round4 ,the flax was on a little holder called a distaff4 ,see the pictures 7,figs4 #dh and #di7 of the wheels4 ,she held and drew the flax while the wheels of the machine put in the twist4 ,that is just what the modern spinning machine does1 but it can accomplish much more in an hour than grandmother did in a day4 ,still it is a great satisfaction to possess some of the beautiful old textiles spun and woven by grandmother's hands4 ,the girls had the pleasure of opening a great chest in the attic and looking at the hand-woven sheets and coverlets which ,grandmother ,allen prizes so highly4 ,barbara ,oakes and ,mollie ,stark fairly clapped their hands and said1 ,how beautiful the colors are4 ,the coverlets were made of wool and cotton yarns4 ,grandmother showed the girls the hand cards which she used when a girl in helping her mother prepare wool into carded rolls for spinning4 ,do you remember that the cotton at the factory passed through a carding machine to be cleaned and made into a cotton rope8 ,grandmother told the girls she used to do the same for wool4 ,she used the little hand cards and drew the boards with the fine teeth back and forth to clean the fibers1 and then made little rolls for the great wheel to spin4 ,the picture 7,fig4 #ej7 shows how the hand cards are used4 ,wasn't that a long1 tedious process8 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,miss ,mary ,e4 ,hoag4 ,,fig4 #di4--;,grandmother ,allen sat at her flax wheel and showed the girls how to spin4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,miss ,mary ,e4 ,hoag4 ,,fig4 #ej4 --,grandmother ,allen carding wool by hand4 ,perhaps at your school you can have an exhibit of old industrial things once used in the home4 ,maybe your grandmother has something in the attic--some cards1 or wheels1 or old hand-woven materials4 ,if you have a ,girls' ,sewing ,league1 the girls will1 perhaps1 send out invitations and invite the mothers and grandmothers4 ,the girls can prepare some coffee and cookies at school to serve the afternoon of the exhibit4 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls had such an afternoon entertainment and earned five dollars for their school fund4 ,they will probably buy some dishes for the school lunch4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,try to find some pictures of very primitive spinning4 ,can you make a spindle8 #b4 ,what does the process of carding do to the cotton or wool8 #c4 ,plan an exhibition of old coverlets and other old hand-woven textiles4 ,invite your parents and friends4 ,,lesson #e ,,cutting ,,out ,a ,,nightdress ,the patterns and muslin have probably arrived4 ,suppose you cut out your nightdress4 ,miss ,james kept a memorandum of the amounts of material needed by each girl for her gown1 and she has divided the cloth4 ,she has1 also1 cut with ,barbara's help several patterns from the commercial pattern1 so that all may begin to work at once4 ,miss ,james has had such nice boards arranged and fastened with hinges to the walls under the blackboards4 ,they are so convenient for cutting and can be let down out of the way when not needed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ea4--,laying the nightdress pattern on the cloth4 ,placing the pattern and cutting the material4 ,let us look at our patterns4 ,some girl will1 perhaps1 read aloud what the pattern says in the description printed on the outside or on the envelope of this commercial pattern4 ,who will hold up the nightdress pattern1 showing how it is related to the figure8 ,who can tell what the small group of dots on the edge means8 ,who remembers how we can tell about laying the pattern correctly on the warp of the material8 ,those two things are important4 ,it is also necessary to plan so as to waste as little as possible4 ,some girls will find that their patterns are too long4 ,measure from the shoulder at the neck of your nightdress pattern1 and see if it is longer or shorter than your measure4 ,if the pattern is too long1 fold up the necessary portion4 ,if too short1 do not forget you must allow extra when pinning the pattern on the cloth4 ,how much of the whole nightdress does this pattern give8 ,if only one-half is given1 the nightdress must be cut on a fold2 back and front in one with a hole for the neck1 as it slips over the head4 ,how shall we fold the cloth so as to cut on a fold8 ,which edge of the pattern shall be placed on the fold8 ,have you placed it most economically on the cloth8 ,not an inch should be wasted4 ,the pattern may or may not allow for seams4 ,what will you do if it does not8 ,if you must add for your hem at the bottom1 do not forget to mark1 with a fine pencil mark1 the allowance for hem beyond the pattern4 ,so you see there are many things to remember4 ,can you all cut out your nightdresses to-day and baste -inch seams under the arms8 ,pin your seams carefully before basting4 ,instead of the sharp angle under the arm1 which the kimono nightdress usually gives1 cut a good curve4 ,your teacher will help you4 ,the curve makes a better line and is easier to finish4 ,the pieces left must be rolled carefully1 and your name must be written on the outside of the roll4 ,we may need the pieces later4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,cut a free-hand pattern of a kimono nightdress for your doll4 #b4 ,show1 with a piece of newspaper to represent the cloth1 how the pattern can be placed economically4 ,,lesson #f ,,the ,,parts ,,of ,a ,,sewing ,,machine ,shall we examine the new machine to-day and learn to run it8 ,you must practice before sewing your seams4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,wilcox and ,gibbs ,sewing ,machine ,co4 ,,fig4 #eb4--,single thread machine4 ,do you know that sewing machines were invented less than one hundred years ago8 ,our great-grandmothers had to do all their sewing by hand1 and some of our grandmothers too4 ,a man by the name of ,elias ,howe1 of ,cambridge1 ,massachusetts1 first thought about the sewing machine2 and since then many different kinds have been invented1 to be run by foot and also by mechanical power1--electricity4 ,we have two kinds of foot-power machines4 ,one kind 7,fig4 #eb7 has only one thread1 which is placed on a spool on top2 and the other 7,fig4 #ec71 the two-thread or double-thread1 is like the one we have at school4 ,the double-thread machine is called a lock-stitch machine1 because one thread is on top on a spool and the other is on a little spool called a bobbin in the shuttle under the plate4 ,the two threads lock together as the machine works4 ,you will learn how later4 ,the machine with only one thread on top is called a chain-stitch machine4 ,the stitching made by it rips very easily2 and the ends must be fastened carefully when one stops4 ,the double-thread machine does not rip easily2 and one can stitch on either the right or wrong side of a garment4 ,on the single-thread machine1 one must stitch on the right side always4 ,let us look at a machine before learning to operate it4 ,what parts do you find below the table8 ,what use is the connecting rod8 ,what does it connect8 ,watch how your teacher puts her feet on the treadle4 ,what makes the wheel above the table turn around8 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,new ,home ,sewing ,machine ,co4 ,,fig4 #ec4--;,double-thread machine4 ,you should practice running the machine first without any thread so as to learn to use the treadle well1 and then with paper to see if you are holding it straight and making rows of pricks which are straight and even4 ,if one cannot make rows of even pricks1 it means the sewing will be crooked and must be ripped4 ,some of the ,pleasant ,valley girls practiced in this way at home4 ,what do you find besides the wheel above the table8 ,the shaft has many parts4 ,can you name some8 ,yes1 the spool holder1 which holds the spool2 the needle bar1 which holds the needle and moves up and down2 the foot1 which is called the presser foot and can be raised or lowered by the little handle2 the needle plate1 through which the needle works2 the feed1 which is like little rough teeth of a comb and helps to push the cloth along as one stitches4 ,the little attachment near the wheel is for winding bobbins for the shuttle4 ,the shuttle lies in the shuttle race under the plate4 ,suppose we move the plate and take it out4 ,see1 the bobbin is in the shuttle4 ,this is the second thread4 ,how do you regulate the machine8 ,jane asked ,miss ,james about the screws4 ,there are usually two large ones on the double-thread machines which are important4 ,one screw is to make the stitch larger or smaller2 we say1 to regulate it4 ,miss ,james showed the girls how to do this4 ,the second screw is to regulate the tightness of the thread4 ,it is called a tension4 ,press your thumb and first finger tightly together and pass a thread between them4 ,when you do not press very hard1 the thread passes easily4 ,when you press hard1 it is difficult to draw the thread through1 and the thread may break4 ,have you tried8 ,the tension is regulated by a screw which presses two little plates together4 ,the thread passes between the plates4 ,when they are loose like your fingers1 the thread passes easily2 when tight1 it breaks4 ,so1 in threading a machine1 we must learn where the tension plates are1 in order to pass the thread between them1 and how the screw is turned to make the plates tight or loose4 ,your teacher will show you how to turn the screws4 ,to-day1 while some girls are finishing the basting1 others may try to run the machine1 in turn4 ,this is what you are to do3 #a4 ,find all the parts whose names have been put on the blackboard1 above table and below table4 #b4 ,learn to treadle evenly4 #c4 ,learn to raise and lower the presser foot on a piece of brown paper1 and to stitch without thread4 ,keep the rows of pricks very even4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,study your machine4 ,find all the parts above the table2 below the table4 #b4 ,what is the purpose of a tension8 ,show how it operates4 #c4 ,learn to stitch1 without a thread1 even rows of pricks on brown paper4 #d4 ,see how much you can tell mother about the machine1 when you go home4 ,,lesson #g ,,practice ,,in ,,threading ,,and ,,running ,,the ,,machine ,let us learn to thread the double thread machine and practice stitching4 ,this requires much care1 but is not difficult4 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls enjoyed this lesson very much4 ,as we learned1 there are many different makes of sewing machines4 ,all are based on the principles of the one invented by ,mr4 ,howe4 ,if we know the important points to remember in threading a machine1 it will be very easy to follow the book of directions which comes with the machine4 ,the names of some machines are the ,new ,home1 ,domestic1 ,singer1 ,wilcox and ,gibbs4 ,here are the things to think about in threading3 #a4 ,find the spool holder1 and put the spool on it4 #b4 ,find all the little eyes and holes through which the thread must pass4 ,the book of directions will help4 #c4 ,find the tension4 ,be sure the thread passes between the tension plates and pulls evenly4 #d4 ,find the needle1 and thread it from left to right1 towards the wheel4 #e4 ,find the shuttle4 ,look at your book of directions4 ,miss ,james helped ,barbara to put the bobbin in its place1 and to thread it into the shuttle4 ,ask your teacher to help you if you do not know how4 #f4 ,put the shuttle back in the shuttle holder4 #g4 ,turn the wheel and hold the upper thread4 ,this will bring the under thread up through the little hole in the needle plate4 ,both threads should be on top before beginning to stitch4 ,now you are ready to begin to practice stitching with a thread4 ,try to remember these things1 while stitching with a thread3 #a4 ,to treadle evenly4 #b4 ,to hold the material on the table at the left hand and to pass it on lightly4 ,do not pull it or push it with your left hand4 #c4 ,to turn corners evenly4 ,have the needle down in cloth4 ,raise the presser foot and turn the work4 ,put the foot down and continue4 #d4 ,be sure to turn the wheel in the proper direction1 or the thread will break4 #e4 ,practice stitching parallel rows4 ,make good square corners4 ,use some scraps of cloth for this sewing1 and practice at home4 ,those who have not practiced on the machine may do so during study periods1 if there is time4 ,we can move the machine into the coat room4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,barbara ,oakes does not turn good square corners on her practice piece4 ,why8 #b4 ,marjorie says her thread breaks every time she starts4 ,why8 #c4 ,show some one how you can bring the under thread up through the needle plate1 preparatory to stitching4 #d4 ,practice threading the machine1 following book directions if you do not know how4 #e4 ,practice rows of good straight stitching4 ,,lesson #h ,,the ,,french ,,seam ,,and ,,its ,,use ,what kind of seams shall we make on our nightdresses8 ,how shall we finish the bottom8 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls did most of this at school in one lesson1 but finished at home4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ed4--,the ,french seam4 ,first sewing near raw edges4 ,making ,french seams on the nightdress4 ,we have learned that our dish towels had to be hemmed because of the raveling of material4 ,anything which is to be washed a great deal must have its raw edges finished in such a way that they will not ravel4 ,as nightdresses are washed often1 we must make our seams so that the edges will not pull out4 ,who can name other garments which are washed often8 ,who can tell what we can do to prevent edges from fraying8 ,yes1 we might make small stitches1 called overcasting1 on the edge of a plain seam4 ,there is another way1 which we shall learn to-day4 ,it is called a ,french seam4 ,the ,french seam is sewed twice4 ,the seam is basted as you have done1 on the right side of the garment2 seams are usually basted on the wrong side4 ,then1 the seam is sewed close to the basting stitches4 ,we shall sew ours by machine4 ,the ,french seam is used on some garments made by hand4 ,the first sewing 7,fig4 #ed71 then1 is a tiny row of running stitches1 close to the basting4 ,after the first sewing1 the basting should be removed and the edges trimmed to a -inch seam4 ,this must be done carefully4 ,then1 turn the garment to the wrong side4 ,press and pinch the seams evenly so that the sewing of the seam is exactly on top of the fold as you pinch it4 ,next1 baste again -inch from edge1 and sew the second time1 by machine4 ,this seam is often used on dainty handmade underwear4 ,then1 the second sewing is two runs and a back stitch1 like that you used on your aprons1 and is made by hand4 ,what must we be careful about1 then1 in making the ,french seams on our nightdresses8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ee4--,the ,french seam4 ,second sewing4 ,making the hem of the nightdress4 ,how much was allowed for the hems at the bottom of the nightdresses8 ,everybody knows how to turn a hem4 ,the first turning is -inch2 and the wide turning1 #c inches4 ,all use your gauges or tape measures2 and turn and pin and baste carefully before stitching4 ,who can tell why the tiny plaits are necessary at the hem turning8 ,where shall we lay them8 ,yes1 at the seams and between1 if necessary4 ,now you will have plenty to do to finish seams and hem4 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls1 after this lesson1 finished theirs at home4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,show on a practice piece how a ,french seam is made3 a4 ,by hand4 b4 ,by machine4 #b4 ,name some garments or articles on which the ,french seam might be used4 ,why8 #c4 ,what are the important things to remember in turning the hems at the bottom of the nightdresses8 ,,lesson #i ,,protection ,,for ,,the ,,body ,,at ,,night ,do you know that clothes help to keep us well8 ,mollie ,stark wishes to know what kind of clothing should be worn at night4 ,what should be done about clothing at night8 ,we have learned that1 in order to keep well1 we must think about the right kind of clothing as well as food4 ,grown people sometimes forget about this2 and growing girls and boys1 too4 ,the body must be kept clean2 and clothing worn next to it should also be kept clean at night as well as during the day4 ,who can remember how many pints of water the normal body gives off each day8 ,it loses about three pints in #bd hours4 ,can you recall what becomes of this waste8 ,yes1 some is evaporated1 but some is collected by our clothes2 that is why they are soiled as they collect the perspiration and excretions1 although often they do not look soiled4 ,the day garments should be hung up at night in a place where they will air and dry out by morning4 ,they should not be shut up in a closet4 ,different clothing should be worn at night4 ,a muslin nightdress1 like those you are making1 is usually suitable for six or seven months of the year2 but some of us who live in the country or in houses not well heated require warmer clothing at night4 ,old people and babies1 as well as sick people1 require more clothing because they are not able to resist the cold as easily4 ,do you recall why8 ,what is the normal human body temperature8 ,why is the human body called a machine8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ef4--,the clothing worn during the day should be aired at night4 ,if our day clothing collects waste and should be aired at night1 what should be done with the night clothing during the day8 ,yes1 it should be well aired4 ,have you ever noticed how the air of a room is spoiled by the odor of night clothing and of bed coverings which have not been properly aired8 ,some people roll up the nightdress and put it under the pillow4 ,that nightdress will not smell sweet and clean at night4 ,clean clothing is absolutely necessary in order to keep well4 ,we shall some day learn how to cleanse clothing properly1 by washing4 ,clothing worn next to the body should be changed once a week at least1 and twice or three times if possible4 ,when one works very hard and the body sends off more waste1 clothing should be changed more often4 ,the body which is to wear the clean clothing should be washed every day4 ,it may not be possible to take a tub bath or a swim in the river or lake1 but one can bathe all over with a bucket of water and a cloth and soap4 ,it pays1 for one feels so fresh2 and1 then1 the waste of the body is removed by the washing1 and the pores of the skin are kept in good condition4 ,when our skin is in good condition1 we do not feel the cold as much as do those who do not bathe frequently4 ,do you remember that we said our clothing must help to save some of the body heat8 ,that is how clothing protects4 ,why must some heat be saved8 ,we also learned that when our body works very hard much heat is created4 ,where does it go8 ,it is not all saved4 ,why8 ,our clothing helps to prevent the heat of the body from escaping too rapidly4 ,we should plan to wear light clothing in summer and heavier in winter1 or to adapt our clothing to the weather4 ,this is only good sense4 ,in summer we have cool days1 and in winter warm ones4 ,people whose habits of living keep them indoors a great deal should be clothed lightly for a warm house and1 when going out1 should protect themselves with extra clothing4 ,the boy or girl who walks to school rapidly does not require as much clothing as one who rides4 ,can you tell why8 ,have you heard that several layers of thin clothing are warmer than one thick layer8 ,frank ,allen says he knows why4 ,yes1 because of the layers of air between the thicknesses of clothing4 ,still air does not carry the heat away1 so we feel warmer with several layers of still air4 ,clothing helps to keep the layers of air from conducting the heat away too rapidly4 ,porous clothing is always better because air can pass through and can be collected in the meshes4 ,loose wool material is warm because it holds the air between the spaces made by the woolly fibers4 ,some day we shall study the wool fiber as we have the cotton1 and find out why it collects air and why woolen clothes shrink4 ,do you think you understand why clothes should be changed at night8 ,can you tell your big brother at home why8 ,mollie ,stark and ,jane ,smith told about this part of the story when they went home from school4 ,mrs4 ,stark had invited some friends in for tea4 ,all enjoyed hearing ,mollie's story4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,why is it important to change one's clothing weekly8 #b4 ,what care should be taken of the clothing worn at night8 ,why8 #c4 ,how do clothes help to keep us well8 ,tell mother or father how4 #d4 ,look in your teacher's book on physiology4 ,what does it say about body temperature2 about cleanliness of the skin8 #e4 ,write the story of what you think ,mollie and ,jane told about this subject at ,mrs4 ,stark's tea party4 ,,lesson #aj ,,laces ,,and ,,their ,,use ,we must finish the sleeves of our nightdresses1 and also the neck4 ,shall we use some lace8 ,do you know that there are many kinds of lace8 ,how shall we sew it to the gown8 ,imitation ,cluny insertion 4#ab ,imitation ,cluny edging 4#ae ,real ,cluny insertion 4#be ,real ,cluny edging 4#ah ,german ,val insertion 4#ji ,german ,val edging 4#ji ,french ,val insertion 4#ac ,french ,val edging 4#ac ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eg4--,the names and retail prices of a few good laces for underwear4 ,cotton beading 4#jc ,linen machine-made beading 4#jd ,linen beading 4#jf ,real torchon insertion 4#bd ,real torchon edging 4#af ,machine-made torchon insertion 4#jg ,machine-made torchon edge 4#aj ,irish crochet insertion 4#he ,irish crochet edging #a4aj ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eh4 ,do you know that there are many kinds of lace8 ,the day ,marjorie ,allen took the girls to visit her grandmother1 they saw many things in the attic4 ,grandmother ,allen also showed them some old lace and undergarments which were decorated with lovely embroidery4 ,it was all done most evenly with lovely flowers and scalloped edges1 and all in white cotton embroidery thread4 ,there were some dainty old laces1 too4 ,the girls learned the names of some of them4 ,the ,sewing ,league sent for several samples of modern laces of the same names4 ,there were cluny laces like these in the sample box4 ,cluny lace is often quite heavy and is used on heavy materials4 ,the lighter cluny laces are more suitable for underwear4 ,the cluny laces are hand or machine made4 ,which do you think are more expensive8 ,have you ever seen any one make lace by hand8 ,it is sometimes done on a lace pillow with pins to outline the pattern4 ,the little bobbins of thread are thrown around the pins4 ,can you get from the picture 7,fig4 #ei7 an idea of how it is done8 ,torchon lace is also used1 but is not quite so heavy as cluny4 ,it is either hand or machine made4 ,both of these are linen laces1 but sometimes are imitated in cotton4 ,they are not so pretty when made of cotton4 ,it is better taste to buy of good lace the amount one can afford than to buy a cheap imitation4 ,if one can only pay for a cotton lace1 then choose a cotton kind1 such as the laces called valenciennes4 ,the girls sent for ,french valenciennes and also for ,german ,val4 lace edging and insertion4 ,what is the difference between an edging and an insertion8 ,the ,german valenciennes laces are somewhat coarser4 ,there are also some samples of ,irish crochet lace4 ,the real ,irish handmade crochet is done with a crochet hook1 by hand4 ,the imitations are made by machinery4 ,marjorie's grandmother has some real ,irish crochet and some real old valenciennes lace4 ,it is handmade and must have cost a great deal of money4 ,in grandmother's day machines had not been invented for making lace4 ,let us look at the samples which ,miss ,james has4 ,the pictures 7,figs4 #eg and #eh7 show some of those used by the ,pleasant ,valley girls4 ,which would you like on your gown8 ,the ,german valenciennes wears well and is not expensive4 ,the machine-made linen cluny or torchon lace is attractive1 suitable1 and it wears well4 ,why do you think a fine ,french valenciennes lace does not look well on thick muslin underwear8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ei4--,lace being made by hand on pillows with tiny bobbins of thread4 ,besides using lace1 what are some other ways of finishing a garment8 ,we shall send for our laces and also learn another way to finish neck and sleeves1 which will cost less4 ,we can use bias bands of lawn to finish the rough edges4 ,cut them #b-;inches wide 7see page #be71 and they will be about one inch finished4 ,the feather stitch added will make a pretty decoration4 ,scalloping is easy4 ,the gowns might be finished with the hand scallop around neck and sleeves1 if one has the time4 ,we shall learn how to sew on the lace insertion or edging4 ,the girls who use lace may decide to have only the edging4 ,if insertion or beading is used1 too1 it is sewed on first4 ,while we are waiting for the lace to come1 we can prepare the edges of the neck and sleeves4 ,if we use a ,french fell1 the sewing will not show on the right side at all when the lace is entirely in place2 besides1 only one sewing is necessary for the hem and lace4 ,this is how it is done3 #a4 ,turn to the right side of the garment at both neck and sleeve edges1 a hem of -inch4 ,the first turning must1 also1 be -inch4 ,baste very carefully with small stitches4 #b4 ,turn these hems backward to wrong side and crease so that the edge of the turned hem is exactly at the finished edge of the garment4 ,this is where the lace is to be sewed4 ,we shall learn how to sew on the lace next lesson4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,bring to school all the samples of lace you can find at home4 ,with your teacher's help compare and discuss their uses4 ,mount the best samples for an exhibit4 #b4 ,ask your family and friends to show you any old pieces of lace they may have4 #c4 ,consult the encyclopedia or other books1 and see if you can learn more about how lace is made4 ,there are several good books all about lace4 ,,lesson #aa ,,trimming ,,the ,,nightdress ,a new way to sew on lace by hand1 and an inexpensive way to trim the nightdress4 ,did you find it very difficult to turn the narrow hem around the neck of your nightdress8 ,jane ,smith almost cried2 but ,miss ,james helped her a little4 ,it is always more difficult to turn a hem on a curved edge than on a straight edge4 ,if the turns have both been made the same width and if the basting stitches are small1 there will be no difficulty4 ,after the hems have been turned backwards and creased to the wrong side1 we are ready to sew on the insertion4 ,hold the insertion straight with the right side to the right side of the gown1 and with the edge of the insertion to the edges of the creased hem4 ,now great care must be taken4 ,the overhanding stitch is to be used4 ,you learned this stitch on the bean bags 7page #bh74 ,in taking the stitch be very careful to put the needle through the edge of the hem1 the creased edge1 and the lace4 ,the sewing will not be neat unless all these edges are caught by this sewing4 ,this is important4 ,if one wishes1 it is possible to use only the lace edging without the insertion4 ,sew it to the gown in the same way one would sew it to the insertion4 ,towards the worker hold the lace just a little full4 ,sometimes one can pull the thread at the edge of the lace and use it as a gathering thread2 but1 as not much fullness is required1 it is very satisfactory to hold the lace a little full with the thumb as one sews4 ,small overhanding stitches will hold the fullness as it is distributed evenly4 ,the right side of the lace is placed towards the right side of the insertion so that the two edges of lace and insertion are overhanded together4 ,sometimes1 if the neck of a gown is too big and one wishes to make it smaller1 tucks can be put in groups at the center front or back1 in number according to the amount to be taken up4 ,in calculating for tucks1 one must remember that the tuck takes up twice the amount of material as the width of tuck desired1 and covers its own width in lying flat4 ,if tucks are used to make the neck size smaller1 it will be found more satisfactory to put a narrow facing around the neck before trimming4 ,to seam the ends of lace1 make a plain seam on the wrong side4 ,lay it flat1 turn under the two edges together1 and hem in a narrow hem4 ,a pretty way to finish the edges of neck and sleeves is with bias bands4 ,cut strips as for the pot holder 7see page #be74 ,white1 pink1 or blue lawn may be used for contrast4 ,cut the bands #b-;inches wide4 ,they will look one inch wide finished4 ,place on the right side1 right of lawn to right of gown4 ,make -inch seam and stitch4 ,turn to wrong side4 ,turn under -inch and hem to wrong side4 ,another way to finish is to baste the band and decorate it with the featherstitch to hold the turning4 ,this stitch is a pretty decoration 7see page #abj74 ,it is placed on the right side and at the bottom of the band4 ,it should be made with white cotton embroidery thread2 #be ,d4,m4,c4 cotton is very good for such finishings4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fj4--,nightdress with sleeves set in1 and sleeves and neck finished with bias bands4 ,the neckband will need a tape or a ribbon to hold the fullness of the band close to the neck4 ,the binding should be started and finished at the front1 and the ends of binding should be turned in 7,fig4 #fj74 ,this will leave an opening where the ribbon can be run in4 ,this is a satisfactory finish and is not expensive4 ,the lawn is #ab or #ae cents a yard2 and -yard will cut enough bands for several girls' gowns4 ,the ,d4,m4,c4 cotton will cost only two cents a skein4 ,send for these in time4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,can you suggest any other finish for the nightdress8 #b4 ,if you should wish to add #c tucks each -inch wide at the bottom of your gown and with -inch space between them1 how many extra inches in length would you have to add to your gown length8 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls worked this out in their arithmetic class4 ,,lesson #ab ,,choosing ,a ,,pattern ,,and ,,material ,,for ,a ,,white ,,petticoat ,do you think you can send for the cotton material and for a pattern for a petticoat8 ,what kind of cloth will you use8 ,perhaps you would prefer to make a slip instead of a skirt4 ,who can remember the names of the best cotton materials for underwear8 ,what shall we choose for our petticoats or slips8 ,look at the pattern book and choose a simple petticoat4 ,we shall learn to make one with a ruffle4 ,it is very useful in summer to wear under thin dresses1 although some girls may prefer to make a slip which combines petticoat and waist4 ,what sizes shall we order8 ,how much cloth will be required8 ,we shall need three lengths of cloth for the skirt4 ,let us take our length measures for the skirt1 allowing four inches extra for hem and finishing4 ,those who wish to make ruffles of the material will need one yard extra of same cloth or of lawn4 ,which will be less expensive1 a ruffle of ,hamburg embroidery edging or a ruffle of lawn decorated with a fancy stitch8 ,which will take longer to prepare8 ,the girls of ,pleasant ,valley ,school decide on a pattern with five gores4 ,what does that mean8 ,would you prefer some other8 ,why is the five-gored pattern a good one for the petticoat8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fa4--;,a simple petticoat4 ,the girls choose cambric for their petticoats4 ,some decide to buy the lawn and to make the ruffle with a simple decoration4 ,in calculating for the ruffle1 allow #a times the width of the skirt4 ,this is full enough4 ,the depth of the ruffle is according to desire4 ,it may be from #e to #aj inches deep4 ,cut it across the warp4 ,can you tell why8 ,others may decide to make a simple ruffle of the same material with a decorated hem2 a few may use the ,hamburg ruffle4 ,which ruffle will you decide to use for your skirt or the bottom of your slip8 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,calculate how much material you will need for your petticoat without the ruffle4 #b4 ,calculate the amount for the ruffle4 #c4 ,how will the patterns help you to make these calculations8 ,,lesson #ac ,,learning ,,to ,,make ,,the ,,petticoat ,the girls of ,pleasant ,valley have had so much practice that the petticoat will not be a difficult task4 ,do you think you will find it easy too8 ,mollie ,stark is delighted to make the petticoat1 for she needs one to wear under the new dotted ,swiss dress that mother made for her birthday4 ,she saw in the ,pleasant ,valley ,news that there will be an unusual sale of ,hamburg edgings2 and she thinks she will go to town and see if it is something she can use4 ,miss ,james told the girls that ,hamburg edging which is full of holes and in which the pattern is poor and poorly embroidered1 is not worth buying4 ,the edge is usually very weak and pulls out after one or two washings4 ,the ,hamburg edging called blind embroidery has no holes and is likely to be firmer4 ,let us study briefly how the petticoats are to be made3 #a4 ,cut out4 ,follow pattern1 placing economically4 ,allow extra for hem1 if necessary1 and one inch for receiving tuck under which the ruffle will be placed4 ,fold pieces left over2 they will be needed4 #b4 ,pin and baste gores4 ,be careful to match notches--front1 then side gore at each side1 then back gore at each side of side gore1 five in all4 ,pin from top down4 ,baste from bottom up with bias edge towards worker4 ,holding thus prevents stretching4 #c4 ,make ,french seams by machine4 #d4 ,make hem on bottom4 ,baste a two or three inch hem as planned4 ,stitch4 ,sometimes dust ruffles of the same cloth or of lawn are placed on the bottom of the skirt instead of a hem4 ,they are made about #c or #d inches wide and cut across warp of cloth4 ,the skirt is then cut #c or #d inches shorter1 and the ruffle makes the length by being added at bottom under a tuck -inch wide4 ,this ruffle has -inch hem on the bottom edge and is sewed to skirt with a seam on the right side4 ,the tuck is made directly above it and is stitched flat to cover the raw edges4 ,a hem at the bottom is enough1 and is suitable for young girls1 when a ruffle is to be added above for decoration and fullness4 #e4 ,prepare tuck on skirt for ruffle4 ,measure from bottom of skirt depth of ruffle4 ,at that point make a tuck -inch deep4 ,baste and stitch4 ,this must be same distance from the bottom of skirt all the way around1 and on the right side of skirt4 ,it is not always necessary to use a tuck4 ,a bias band can be used instead or a beading to cover the raw edges of the ruffle4 #f4 ,prepare ruffle4 ,this may be of lawn with edge hemmed and decorated with featherstitch1 or it may be of ,hamburg edging or of same material with scalloped edge 7see page #adb74 ,a ruffle of the same material with a simple -inch hem may also be used4 ,the width of ruffle is half as full again as the width of skirt4 ,the depth can be #e-aj inches as desired4 ,divide ruffle in quarters1 and gather4 #g4 ,to join ruffle to skirt4 ,divide skirt in quarters4 ,pin quartered ruffle in place4 ,draw up gathering threads to fit skirt4 ,wind thread around pins to hold4 ,baste4 ,if a receiving tuck has been made1 turn it down over the raw edge of ruffle and baste and stitch on very edge of tuck4 ,if a tuck has not been made1 baste over the raw edges of ruffle a band of finishing braid or beading or a bias strip of the same cloth as the skirt1 -inch wide2 stitch on both edges4 #h4 ,to make placket4 ,use straight strip #b inches wide4 ,start at waist line1 right of strip to right of skirt4 ,sew all around placket opening4 ,stitch4 ,turn to wrong side4 ,hem down by hand4 ,lap at bottom of opening so it lies flat4 ,backstitch across the bottom with a slanting line of stitches4 ,this makes a flat back with no fullness and is called a bound placket4 #i4 ,to finish top of skirt4 ,cut bias strip of cloth about one inch wide2 sew to right side4 ,turn over to wrong side even with top2 turn so as to be -inch wide finished2 stitch on edge1 flat4 ,lap skirt in back with three buttonholes1 one at waist and two below in placket lap4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,calculate how much ruffling of ,hamburg edging will be needed for a skirt #b-yards around4 #b4 ,get samples of embroidery and pin to the ,bulletin ,board1 where all the girls may see them4 #c4 ,practice making a receiving tuck4 #d4 ,see if you can plan a section of a dust ruffle for a petticoat4 ,make the skirt part of brown paper with tissue for the ruffle4 ,,lesson #ad ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,corset ,,cover ,the new problem of corset cover is not difficult1 if one has learned all the preceding lessons4 ,let us study how to trim this garment or the waist of a slip4 ,some of the girls of ,pleasant ,valley will make combinations of corset cover and skirt1 and others the corset cover 7,fig4 #fb74 ,they decide to use nainsook and to trim them with ,german valenciennes lace4 ,about #a-yards of cloth are necessary4 ,they have sent for a simple pattern and will make them partly by hand4 ,miss ,james gave them the following directions3 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fb4--;,a simple corset cover4 #a4 ,to cut4 ,place pattern economically4 ,pin and cut4 #b4 ,baste4 ,pin and baste underarm seams and shoulders4 ,sew ,french seams by machine4 #c4 ,make front laps4 ,on left side make hem -inch wide turned to wrong side4 ,on right front make hem turned to right side -inch wide4 ,stitch this -inch from each edge to form front lap4 ,it could be run by hand if all handmade or featherstitched with tiny stitches4 ,this lap is for the buttonholes1 which are made vertically1 three or four in the lap4 ,if it is desired to conceal the buttons1 make an extra strip for buttonholes and stitch under the right front lap with the stitching of hem4 #d4 ,finish bottom4 ,even the bottom1 and make as a finish a narrow hem -inch wide4 #e4 ,gather at waist line4 ,in center fronts and in middle of center back1 gather at the waist line to fit figure4 ,baste on inside of waist over these adjusted gathers a straight band -inch wide1 with edges turned4 ,baste and stitch this top and bottom to hold gathers4 ,waist line can1 also1 be finished1 if desired1 on right side with beading or with a band4 #f4 ,to finish top of cover and sleeves4 ,make the same finish as for kimono night dress4 ,this is neat and attractive4 ,the top of the corset cover can be gathered to fit the figure1 or tiny hand or machine tucks of -inch in width may be run about three inches deep each side of the front laps1 five or six tiny ones being made on each side1 according to the amount of fullness to be taken in4 ,the top can be finished with a ,hamburg beading for ribbon1 sewed on with a ,french seam2 and then lace may be overhanded on the edge of it4 ,the finish of the sleeves should correspond to the neck finish4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems ,calculate how much beading and lace or lace alone will be necessary to trim a corset cover4 ,draw sketch of how it is to be decorated4 ,,review ,,problems ,i4 ,practice sewing on the machine at home4 ,learn to turn good square corners and to stitch straight4 ,,ii4 ,plan to make a slip or some extra garment at home1 using the principles and knowledge gained at school1 in sewing seams1 trimming and making4 ,,iii4 ,in what ways are you planning to protect your body at night8 ,how do you ventilate your room8 ,how air your clothes8 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,iii ,,learning ,,to ,,make ,,some ,,attractive ,,gifts ,,for ,,christmas ,,or ,,for ,a ,,birthday ,,present ,perhaps you would like to surprise mother or father at ,christmas time or to make a birthday gift for grandmother or auntie4 ,all the ,pleasant ,valley ,school girls have made plans for ,christmas4 ,making gifts is not difficult1 if one gives thought and time1 and need not be a great expense1 if one is careful to use scraps of cloth4 ,look in the attic or in the piece bag to see if there are any scraps of silk4 ,if you are making a gift for mother1 ,i am sure grandmother will help you to find something4 ,giving is much fun when one can make the gift a surprise4 ,grandmother ,allen and ,grandmother ,stark are helping the ,pleasant ,valley girls with their surprises4 ,it is not the cost of a gift which counts1 but the loving thought which one puts into it4 ,a surprise birthday pudding or cake1 a surprise apron or work bag1 are all things into which we can put loving thought4 ,who said the gift without the giver is bare8 ,what does that mean8 ,have you ever given a gift or received one into which no loving thought had been put8 ,see how much happier you will feel when you give thought1 too4 ,the girls of the ,pleasant ,valley ,sewing ,league think they will make something for their fair4 ,miss ,james has a box full of samples of silk from a wholesale house1 which were given to her4 ,she says the girls may have them4 ,some of the pieces are very large and can be used for many things4 ,next lesson you might do as they did1 and all bring any pieces you may have and see what can be made from them4 ,,lesson #a ,,the ,,story ,,of ,,how ,,silk ,,is ,,produced ,do you know that a tiny little worm gives us our silk dresses1 hair ribbons1 neckties1 gloves1 stockings1 and many other useful things8 ,do you know how the worm makes the silk8 ,it is a very wonderful story4 ,let us study about silk to-day4 ,in the picture 7,fig4 #fc7 you will see one of the silkworms full-grown4 ,the mother and father were beautiful moths4 ,the mother moth lays the little eggs on the leaves of the mulberry tree because they are good food for her baby worms4 ,the sunshine and warmth hatch the little eggs4 ,the eggs are like pinheads1 and are smaller than tiny grains of chopped corn which you feed your chickens4 ,your mother hen sets on the eggs until the warmth makes the chicks grow1 but the sunshine starts the tiny moth eggs4 ,soon a little baby worm comes out and is as small as a tiny thread4 ,it grows and grows and eats and eats1 until it is about three inches long and nearly as thick around as one of your fingers1 as the picture shows 7,fig4 #fc74 ,it takes about a month for the worm to grow so large4 ,it must be tended very carefully and given the right food1 or it will die4 ,the food must be chopped fine4 ,it is like preparing milk for baby2 is it not8 ,they must1 also1 be kept very clean in order to grow4 ,cleanliness always helps animals1 as well as people1 to grow4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,corticelli ,silk ,co4 ,copyright1 #ahif1 ,nonotuck ,silk ,co4 ,,fig4 #fc4--;,corticelli silkworm1 eating4 ,have you heard that there are some countries where the silkworm grows better than in others8 ,can you name the countries producing the most silk8 ,you have learned that in your geography4 ,yes1 ,japan and ,china and ,italy4 ,yes1 and ,france and ,asia ,minor1 too4 ,do you think the ,united ,states produces very much silk8 ,why not8 ,in the countries named1 labor is not so expensive4 ,silkworms require much care and labor4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #fd4--,the houses or cocoons built by the worms in the branches4 ,silk is the most beautiful and the strongest of the common fibers4 ,it also costs the most4 ,the silk fiber produced by these tiny worms is often four thousand feet in length4 ,let us learn how the tiny worm does such a wonderful thing4 ,he must work as hard as the busy bee4 ,after the worm is full-grown he begins his busy work4 ,this is like boys and girls2 they1 too1 begin to work when they are grown4 ,if well fed and clean1 the worm will work well4 ,this is apt to be true of girls and boys1 too4 ,the worm begins by making a house for himself called a cocoon 7,fig4 #fd74 ,have you ever seen the cocoons of any moth8 ,if you will look1 you will find them on the trees4 ,miss ,james has some cocoons of the lovely green ,luna moth4 ,she put the green worm in the box1 and it has spun a cocoon4 ,we do not find the mulberry worm growing wild in the ,united ,states4 ,in some countries it grows wild1 just as our ,luna moth4 ,when the worm is ready to spin1 she throws out two tiny little threads one from each side of her head4 ,this is a secretion and is a kind of jellylike fluid4 ,as the air touches it1 it hardens4 ,she works her head back and forth1 and the tiny filaments1 or threads1 as they are called1 are joined together into one4 ,she works and works until she has built a house of silk threads all glued together so that it seems like a mass of parchment paper4 ,these houses are about #a-;inches in length1 and are white or yellow in color4 ,in ,china and ,japan these cocoons are grown and tended very carefully4 ,the outside of the cocoon is covered with the loose fluffy silk which the worm uses to attach his home to a leaf or twig4 ,it takes the worm three weeks to make this long1 continuous thread called a cocoon4 ,during that time a wonderful thing happens4 ,the worm inside the cocoon is changed to a moth like her mother and father and is ready to leave her home by eating her way out4 ,what would happen to the long silk thread if she did that8 ,yes1 it would be broken into small pieces and not be one continuous piece4 ,some moths are permitted to come out 7see ,fig4 #fe74 ,they then find a mate and soon more tiny eggs are laid by the mother moth2 and all the story begins again4 ,a sad thing happens when cocoons are grown for the silk4 ,the moths are not allowed to come out and break the thread2 but are put in a very hot place so they die inside4 ,the cocoons are then ready to be reeled or wound off4 ,they are placed in basins of hot water because the gummy secretion of the worm must be softened4 ,the ends from four or five cocoons are caught together and reeled1 or wound1 off together4 ,this makes a strand of raw silk4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,corticelli ,silk ,co4 ,copyright1 #ahie1 by ,nonotuck ,silk ,co4 ,,fig4 #fe4--;,corticelli cocoons from which the moths have emerged4 ,john ,alden told the following story4 ,he said his father read it aloud the night before when the family gathered about the big open fire4 ,once upon a time1 long ago1 people did not know how to use the beautiful fibers of the silkworm4 ,we are told that a ,chinese empress discovered how to use it as long ago as #bgjj years before the birth of ,christ4 ,every year1 in ,april1 the ,chinese people have a celebration in her honor1 because of her valuable discovery4 ,think of all the riches she added to her country because of this secret4 ,it is said that for many years this secret was kept2 but later some monks traveling east to ,india and ,constantinople told others how to reel the silk fiber4 ,then the use of silk fiber spread to ,greece and ,italy and ,spain1 and by the fourteenth century was common in ,france4 ,since then1 silk manufacture has grown rapidly in importance4 ,john traced the journey on the map4 ,will you see if you can trace this journey of silk manufacture4 ,where do you think the secret was carried from ,france8 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #ff4--,silk reeling4 ,the cocoons are in the basins before the women4 ,can you send for some cocoons and raw silk8 ,your teacher will tell you where to write4 ,raw silk1 as it is wound from cocoons1 is made up into hanks like the worsted which you buy at the store4 ,it is sold in hanks by the pound and costs from #g4jj to #aj4jj a pound4 ,it takes three thousand silkworms to spin a pound of raw silk4 ,do you know that for grandmother's dress about two pounds of raw silk were necessary8 ,can you tell how many worms were kept busy8 ,in another lesson we shall learn how the manufacturer of silk ribbons or silk material takes the raw silk and makes it into beautiful fabrics4 ,now we know about a useful little animal as well as about a plant which gives us clothing4 ,silk1 however1 is more expensive than cotton4 ,cotton is sometimes made to look like silk4 ,the cotton fiber is mercerized1 which means soaked in certain chemicals and stretched to make it look silky4 ,lisle thread looks somewhat like silk4 ,it is cotton twisted hard to give it a luster4 ,another day we shall learn more about these4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,do you know where silk is grown8 ,write a story of #ajj words telling about it4 #b4 ,why is not more silk grown in the ,united ,states8 #c4 ,find on your map of the world the principal countries where silk is grown4 #d4 ,name some articles made of silk which you use every day2 which you see used4 #e4 ,what are some of the other uses which we have for silk8 ,,lesson #b ,,simple ,,articles ,,easily ,,made ,,from ,,silk ,,scraps ,there are so many things which can be made from silks4 ,suppose you start with something easy4 ,miss ,james had some good suggestions4 ,the little pin-case or the sewing-case are both useful 7,figs4 #fh and #fi74 ,you know the overhanding stitch2 so you can make them quickly4 ,several of the ,pleasant ,valley girls will make them for ,christmas gifts as well as for the fair4 ,which will you make8 ,here are the directions for making both the pin-case and the sewing-case4 ,they are not difficult if the directions are followed carefully4 ,for the ,pincase4 ,cut two circles of stiff cardboard from #b to #c inches in diameter1 if your silk pieces will permit4 ,the circles must be exact4 ,cut two pieces of silk #c or #d inches in diameter1 so the silk pieces will be -inch larger all around than the cardboard4 -inch from the edge1 with double thread1 make a row of gathering stitches2 slip cardboard within and draw up the silk around the card4 ,now crisscross with your thread through the edges of material until all is held firmly 7,fig4 #fg74 ,cover both cards4 ,then hold the two together1 and very neatly overhand with silk thread of a color to match4 ,tiny stitches should be taken4 ,put in a row of pins around the edges close together4 ,a pretty decoration can be made by working a design or an initial on the silk if it is a plain color4 ,this can be done with chain stitch or featherstitch1 before the cover is put over the cardboard4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fg4--,this shows how to cover the circle1 and draw the silk neatly at the edges4 ,in the picture 7,fig4 #fh7 notice the other cases4 ,they are made exactly like the pin-case but of circles or of pieces of different shape4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fh4--,several useful cases3 ,a1 pin-case2 ,b1 oval pin-case2 ,c1 spool-case2 ,d1 darning-case2 ,e1 needle-book4 ,cases for doilies can be made of two large circles of #ab in4 in diameter4 ,the circles can be tied together with ribbon and the doilies lie flat between4 ,the case for darning thread is also very useful4 ,for the sewing case4 ,this is more difficult4 ,it is three-sided and is made of three elliptical disks covered as we did the round ones for the pincase4 ,how many cardboards will you need8 ,thin cardboard is necessary4 ,what does elliptical mean8 ,a good size is #d inches the long way and #b-;inches across4 ,all the girls know how to draw an ellipse4 ,cut the six pieces of silk -inch larger all around than the ellipses1 and cover in same way as you did the round disks4 ,if there are not enough scraps of one color1 use a contrasting color for the lining4 ,after the six pieces have been covered and joined together to make three ellipses1 then the three are to be overhanded together very neatly1 leaving open the third edge1 which is the opening of the case where the spools1 etc4 are put inside4 ,the case naturally closes itself2 but1 when pressed at the ends1 it opens easily4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fi4--,the sewing case made of three elliptical disks sewed together4 ,what are some pretty stitches that may be used for decorating8 ,if one wishes1 the sewing case can also be decorated with a good design like the one in the picture 7,fig4 #fi74 ,would you like to make the chain stitch and the featherstitch8 ,they are both useful for decoration on bags1 aprons1 dresses for baby1 underwear1 and many things4 ,mollie ,stark learned this stitch and used it on a dress for her baby brother4 ,mrs4 ,stark is very happy to think ,mollie is learning how to sew4 ,these are the directions for making several pretty stitches3 ,the chain stitch is easy to learn4 ,begin with a knot4 ,pass the thread from the under side up4 ,throw the thread so as to make an ,o 7see ,fig4 #gj74 ,put the needle into the hole where thread came through1 and make a stitch about -inch long4 ,hold the cloth over the fingers with the thumb on top4 ,the needle should be pointed towards the worker1 and the point of the needle should be brought up through the little round ,o4 ,care must be taken in pulling the thread through to have the loop of thread lying flat on the cloth4 ,the length of stitch should be uniform4 ,what does uniform mean8 ,the outline of an initial or any drawn design can be followed with this stitch4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gj4--,the chain stitch4 ,the featherstitch is very beautiful1 when made small and even 7,fig4 #ga74 ,it can be varied by making one or two stitches on each side of a center line4 ,the length of the stitches and the slant always affect the appearance4 ,in practicing the featherstitch draw a pencil line on your cloth as a guide4 ,the stitches are slanting and are taken towards this line4 ,this stitch is used for decoration in the same way as the chain stitch4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ga4--;,a1 the single featherstitch2 ,b1 the double featherstitch4 ,the single featherstitch4 ,hold the work over the finger with thumb on top of cloth4 ,work towards you4 ,start with knot on under side of pencil line4 ,draw thread through to right side4 ,lay thread on the pencil line and hold with thumb4 ,to right of thread near beginning1 take a small -inch slanting stitch towards the line of thread4 ,draw needle through over the loop of thread4 ,have it loose and lying flat4 ,for the second stitch1 hold thread again on the pencil mark4 ,throw thread for next stitch on the left of the line4 ,take slanting stitch towards center line4 ,draw needle up through the loop1 which should lie flat4 ,the next stitch is taken to the right of the center line directly under the stitch above it1 and should be the same length and slant4 ,the beauty of this stitch depends on its evenness4 ,a striped material makes a good practice piece4 ,after the stitch is learned1 it is easy to make it on plain cloth2 but one must then keep constantly in mind an imaginary center line4 ,this is a very useful stitch for finishing hems instead of using the hemming stitch4 ,the lawn ruffles on our petticoats were finished with this stitch4 ,the featherstitch is sometimes a straight stitch instead of slanting4 ,it is taken each side of the imaginary center line as the slanting one1 but the needle is held straight4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gb4--,the outline stitch4 ,the outline stitch4 ,this is another easy stitch 7,fig4 #gb7 which every girl should learn4 ,it can be used instead of the chain or featherstitch1 as decoration4 ,it outlines1 or follows1 the design1 and so gets its name4 ,the stitch is taken on the line and is worked from left to right4 ,care must be taken to have the stitches all the same length and to throw the thread in one direction either away from or towards the worker4 ,the pretty effect will be spoiled if there is a variation4 ,away from the worker makes a neat effect4 ,begin with knot4 ,draw needle to right side on the line4 ,throw thread away from worker2 take a small back stitch on the line1 needle pointing towards the worker4 ,this will make a long thread on the surface and the short stitch beneath4 ,the effect is much prettier when the stitches are taken close together4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,name some other articles on which the featherstitch or chain stitch can be used2 some on which the outline stitch may be used4 #b4 ,draw a picture on the blackboard of the featherstitch1 chain stitch1 and outline stitch4 ,can you show how the needle looks in position1 without looking at your textbook8 ,,lesson #c ,,the ,,names ,,and ,,uses ,,of ,,several ,,silks ,,are ,,discussed ,to-day we shall study again about silks4 ,let us look at those in ,miss ,james' piece bag2 and1 also1 see how many different kinds we have for our gifts4 ,perhaps your teacher has some too4 ,such a variety of kinds and colors6 ,some are soft and light1 and others are heavy and stiff4 ,do they have names just as the cotton materials8 ,can any one tell the names of any of these silks8 ,yes1 the plain one is a taffeta4 ,it is plain in color2 and the weave is plain1 the same on both sides4 ,sometimes it comes with printed and woven figures4 ,what is the difference between a woven and a printed design8 ,here is a piece with a printed design4 ,it is a foulard silk4 ,how does this design differ from the taffeta with the design8 ,foulard silk is used for dresses4 ,taffeta is also2 as well as for linings and for petticoats4 ,a cheap quality of taffeta does not wear well4 ,it costs from #ge cents to #b4jj a yard1 and is woven #ba inches and wider4 ,foulards are about #bd inches wide and can be bought for the same price as the taffetas4 ,mollie's mother had a foulard silk dress last summer2 so did ,grandmother ,allen4 ,here is a soft crinkling white piece and a dark blue just like it2 and also a black piece4 ,these are called crpe de chine and are used for dresses1 also2 and sometimes for underwear4 ,it is soft and lustrous1 and comes in plain colors and sometimes printed4 ,it costs from #ge cents up and is woven #bb inches and sometimes wider4 ,shall we start another book of materials1 and see how many silks we can learn about8 ,the piece ,barbara ,oakes brought is smooth and shiny on the right side4 ,does anyone know the name8 ,it is woven in such a way that the filling thread goes over several threads and under one4 ,try it on your school loom4 ,this weave brings most of the filling thread on the surface of the cloth4 ,the material is called satin1 and the weave is the satin weave4 ,some cottons are woven with the satin weave1 and often in table linen or damask we see the smooth satin weave4 ,here is a bit of damask table linen4 ,let us compare this smooth part with the satin4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,crompton and ,knowles4 ,,fig4 #gc4--,the ,jacquard loom4 ,notice the cards with punched holes above it4 ,they affect the pattern4 ,can you find the cloth which is being woven8 ,satins are used for dresses1 linings1 trimmings1 boxes1 and for many other purposes4 ,they cost #a to #bj per yard1 if very beautiful1 and are woven from #ba to #ed inches wide4 ,satin is sometimes made of a combination of linen or cotton1 with the silk4 ,it is then less expensive4 ,the woof1 or filling thread1 which gives the smooth finish is silk2 and it is that which shows in the finished cloth4 ,this piece of silk1 which looks figured like table linen1 only it is made of silk1 is called a brocaded satin4 ,this satin is used for dresses and trimmings1 and often for furniture covering and for hangings in beautiful rooms4 ,it is made on a loom called a ,jacquard4 ,table damask is made on the same kind of loom4 ,this wonderful loom 7,fig4 #gc7 is able to produce very beautiful patterns1 because of the management of the perforated cards above the loom which affect the pattern4 ,the soft white piece is china silk4 ,little ,alice ,allen had a dress made of it last summer4 ,it is a plain weave1 and many of such silks are still woven by hand in ,china4 ,it is very durable and is used for dresses1 waists1 and underwear4 ,it costs #a for a fairly good quality1 and is woven #bd inches wide4 ,this piece of silk1 also1 originated in ,china4 ,it is called pongee4 ,mary ,jones had a coat of this last year4 ,it is ecru in color and is soft4 ,the real ,chinese pongee is hand-woven and is made from the silk of wild silkworms4 ,it is woven #bg inches wide and costs #a per yard up4 ,this piece was #a4ej per yard4 ,this is a queer-looking piece4 ,it is marked in a watery pattern4 ,the silk has been pressed between hot rollers which are stamped with a pattern to give that effect4 ,it is called moir silk1 and is used for trimmings and dresses4 ,it is quite expensive4 ,a good piece will cost at least #b per yard and is #bb inches in width4 ,we shall learn about two more of the most common silk materials4 ,one is thick1 and the other is thin4 ,the thin piece is called chiffon4 ,who has ever seen it used8 ,yes1 for veils4 ,it is used for dresses1 too1 and for hats and trimmings4 ,isn't it light and thin and gauzy8 ,it is made in plain colors generally2 sometimes figured4 ,it is #df inches wide and costs from 4#ge to #b per yard4 ,yes1 every one knows this one6 ,it is called velvet4 ,this piece is all silk1 and was a part of ,marjorie's great-grandmother's dress4 ,some velvets are made of linen and silk1 or of cotton and silk4 ,all silk velvet is very expensive4 ,it often costs #aj a yard and more4 ,some silk velvet can be bought for #d or #e a yard4 ,it is woven from #ah to #db inches wide4 ,isn't it thick8 ,do you notice the tiny ends standing up8 ,it is woven just like some carpet1 and the thickness is called the pile4 ,in weaving1 little loops of the filling thread are made1 and after weaving1 these are cut to form the pile4 ,such weaving looks very difficult4 ,the warp is sometimes linen or cotton4 ,this other thick piece with a pile is called plush4 ,it has a longer pile than velvet4 ,there are also cotton plushes4 ,did your mother ever have a winter coat of plush8 ,mrs4 ,alden had one which lasted for years4 ,let us mount our silk samples4 ,another day we shall study how they are woven from the raw silk4 ,isn't it interesting to feel acquainted with this new family of materials8 ,notice before next lesson how many things you see which are made of silk4 ,have you any in your schoolroom8 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,bring to school all the samples of different kinds of silks which you can collect4 ,can you tell their names8 #b4 ,name an expensive silk suitable for a dress1 and give its approximate cost4 ,name an inexpensive silk suitable for a summer dress2 give its approximate cost4 #c4 ,what is plush used for8 ,what is chiffon made of8 #d4 ,start a book of silk samples4 ,,lesson #d ,,more ,,useful ,,gifts ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,them ,two more useful gifts3 a workbag of silk1 and a sewing apron4 ,which will you chose to make8 99 99 99 99 99 ,the workbag4 ,barbara ,oakes has a very complete little workbag 7,fig4 #gd7 which grandmother made for her last ,christmas4 ,the girls think they would like to copy it4 ,it is made of a piece of yellow flowered ribbon which was #h inches wide2 a yard is enough4 ,if you have scraps of silk1 use a strip #h inches wide #ad inches long4 ,with the other #d inches1 if ribbon is used1 the circular disks for the bottom are to be covered4 ,to make3 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gd4--;,a1 a very useful bag4 ,b1 the sewing apron4 #a4 ,cut two circles of cardboard #c inches in diameter4 ,cut the silk for covering four inches in diameter4 ,cover in the same way as you covered the pin disk4 ,this is the bottom of the bag4 #b4 ,seam the two ends of the #ad inch strip together with two runs and backstitch 7see page #ce74 ,open seams flat4 ,turn along one long edge1 -inch if selvedge of ribbon2 if silk1 make two turns3 first -inch1 second -inch4 ,baste and hold with featherstitch 7see page #abj71 or cross-stitch 7see page #ade7 ,at seam of bag open seam carefully -inch on the right side for casing hole for ribbon4 ,at the opposite side1 work a small buttonhole 7see page #dc7 -inch in length4 ,this will be the top of the bag2 and the two ribbons are to be run through the casing so it will draw up4 #c4 ,at the other edge of the long strip1 fold to the wrong side3 first #b inches of the strip1 and then the #b inches folded over itself4 ,baste carefully4 ,this fold is to form pockets on the inside of the bag4 ,every two inches along length of strip1 mark with a pin2 and on the right side of bag1 featherstitch or cross-stitch in rows two inches deep1 to form pockets on the inside of the strip4 #d4 ,gather the edge of the strip to be sewed to the covered disks4 ,divide gathers in half4 ,pin to disk4 ,overhand to disk with close stitches on the inside of bag4 ,this workbag makes a very useful gift4 ,it can be filled with a pair of small scissors1 emery1 needles1 and spools of silk placed in the pockets4 ,the ribbon for drawing top is in two pieces1 -yard in each4 ,start one piece from one side and run around casing until it comes out at the same place it started4 ,tie in bow4 ,start other ribbon at opposite side1 and run it all around casing1 until it returns to the same side it started from4 ,tie in bow4 ,the sewing apron4--,another useful gift is a small sewing apron 7,fig4 #gd74 ,it can be made of silk or of dimity at #ab-;cents a yard1 and need not then cost more than #ae cents4 ,dimity is one yard wide2 and of a yard is enough4 ,to make3 #a4 ,from one selvedge cut a strip #b-;inches wide1 lengthwise of the piece4 ,this is for the band and is cut off before the apron is made4 ,remove other selvedge4 #b4 ,turn -inch hem to right side of apron at the lengthwise edges of cloth2 baste carefully4 #c4 ,at one cross wise end turn1 hem #a-;inches wide to right side4 ,baste and hem with featherstitching on reverse or wrong side4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ge4--;,four useful aprons4 #d4 ,turn up at bottom #h inches to form pocket1 so featherstitching will be on the upper or right side4 ,baste and overhand edges the depth of pocket4 #e4 ,featherstitch side hems1 catching the pocket to hold securely4 #f4 ,divide large pocket in three by making two rows of featherstitching like picture4 #g4 ,put on band4 ,divide gathered top of apron4 ,divide band4 ,allow band to extend each side of gathers4 ,a space of #ab inches in center of band is enough to contain the gathers4 ,put on as you put on the band of petticoat1 but overhand edges of the band extending beyond gathers4 #h4 ,a buttonhole and button can be used to finish1 or ribbon may be sewed to ends of band4 ,this makes a very useful gift4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gf4--,two cases on which the featherstitch can be used4 ,a1 needle case and bag4 ,b1 linen traveling case for overshoes4 ,look at the sketches 7,fig4 #ge7 of other aprons3 ,a is made from a square of figured lawn2 -yard is enough4 ,it is shaped at one corner for a bib4 ,a hem is turned at the edge and featherstitched4 ,a few small tucks make it fit the waist1 and ribbon trims it4 ,b is made from of a yard of lawn1 as shown in the diagram4 ,place pattern economically4 ,c is made of a width of lawn or silk with a hem at the bottom and casing at the top4 ,d is made of glass toweling trimmed with finishing braid and featherstitching4 ,figure #gf shows some useful cases with decorations of featherstitch4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,plan a gift and surprise mother at her birthday anniversary4 ,your teacher will help you4 #b4 ,see if you can plan an original gift4 ,draw a sketch of it4 #c4 ,bring all the suggestions for gifts you can find in clippings from old magazines4 ,,lesson #e ,,cousin ,,ann ,,tells ,,how ,,silk ,,is ,,made ,,into ,,cloth ,last summer ,marjorie ,allen's ,cousin ,ann visited her4 ,she lives at ,paterson1 ,new ,jersey1 where there are many silk mills4 ,she told the girls of the ,sewing ,league about the way silk is made into cloth4 ,shall we too learn how8 ,where is silk manufactured8 ,we know that very little silk is grown in the ,united ,states2 but we also know that our country leads in the manufacture of silks and uses more raw silk than any other country in the world4 ,france is next and produces very beautiful materials4 ,most of our silk factories are in the ,east3 in ,new ,jersey1 ,connecticut1 ,new ,york1 and ,pennsylvania4 ,people have tried to raise silkworms here4 ,in #afbd some ,frenchmen living in ,virginia tried1 but were not very successful4 ,such experiments have usually failed because it costs so much for labor4 ,in #agdg the governor of ,connecticut wore a coat and stockings made of silk produced on his place4 ,we use about #he per cent of the silk manufactured here4 ,what per cent is1 then1 exported8 ,in #ahgf1 at the great ,centennial ,exhibition in ,philadelphia1 ,marjorie's grandmother saw wonderful exhibits of silk woven in many colors1 and even beautiful woven pictures of silk4 ,has any one ever seen a woven picture of silk8 ,have you ever seen one tiny fiber of silk as it looks under the microscope8 ,what do you notice8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gg4--,silk fibers magnified4 ,this is what ,marjorie's cousin from ,paterson told the girls4 ,they went to one room at the mill where there were great bales of silk1 weighing about #ajj or #aej pounds1 but not quite so heavy or large as a bale of cotton4 ,when opened there were many hanks in each bale2 tied up1 five or ten in a bundle4 ,these hanks were taken first to a man called a throwster4 ,silk throwing means soaking the skeins to remove more of the gum1 and winding the silk from the skein to a spool4 ,this is done by soaking in warm water1 drying1 and then placing the silk on swifts1 or reels4 ,have you ever seen a reel for winding8 7,see ,fig4 #gh47 ,it holds the skein of silk4 ,the ends are taken1 and the machine unwinds from the skein and winds the silk on spools4 ,in one skein there are from #ge1jjj to #bjj1jjj yards of silk4 ,the spools are then placed in a machine which cleans and twists two of these spool threads together to form one1 and then winds it off on new spools4 ,this twisted silk is called organzine4 ,isn't that a queer name8 ,it means the thread used in a loom for the warp or strong threads4 ,why are twisted threads stronger8 ,try1 and see if they are4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gh4--,silk winding4 ,silk is a most perfect fiber2 and does not have to be prepared as much as cotton or wool4 ,sometimes it is twisted a very little for the warp4 ,the filling thread has a queer name1 too4 ,it is called the tram1 and need not be of so good a quality of silk as the strong warp1 nor so tightly twisted4 ,cotton spinning is different from silk throwing2 but both mean getting the fibers ready for weaving4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,cheney ,bros4 ,,fig4 #gi4--,silk dyeing4 ,there are many beautiful colored silks4 ,silk is usually dyed 7,fig4 #gi7 in the yarn in hanks4 ,the poor qualities1 however1 are dyed after the silk is woven into the piece4 ,silk is dyed by dipping the skeins or yards of silk in great vats of dye4 ,for dyeing1 the coal-tar products 7aniline dyes7 are used4 ,did you know that coal could produce such beautiful colors8 ,that is a long story of the many wonderful things which can be made from tar4 ,do you know that #be per cent of the weight of the raw silk is made up of the gummy substance8 ,the dyer boils out some of the gum2 and1 if he wishes to produce cheap silks and make much money1 he makes up for the weight of gum boiled out1 by using tin4 ,the silk is dipped in bichloride of tin or other substances2 and it takes up1 or absorbs1 until sometimes it weighs twice or even four times as much as the boiled-off silks4 ,this tin is bought for silk4 ,women who do not know think they are buying heavy silk and are getting a good quality because it is so heavy4 ,this solution of tin rots the silk1 and1 when the silk comes in contact with light and air1 it crumbles away4 ,perhaps you have at home a sample of silk which has done this4 ,marjorie's ,cousin ,ann saw some petticoats of silk which went to pieces just hanging in a closet4 ,sometimes that happens when store keepers keep the petticoats for some time4 ,one can see the holes by holding the silk up to the light4 ,in order to know what one is buying one must study about materials and about how they are made4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,cheney ,bros4 ,,fig4 #hj4--,warping or preparing silk for the loom4 ,have you ever seen a picture of silk being dyed in the skein8 ,marjorie's cousin says it is done by machinery4 ,see how many skeins are on the big wheel1 or drum as it is called4 ,as it turns1 the skeins are dipped in the vat of dye4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,cheney ,bros4 ,,fig4 #ha4--,silk weaving on a hand loom in ,japan4 ,after the warp threads are twisted and wound on spools1 the workman places the spools in racks 7see ,fig4 #hj74 ,they are then unwound again on to a very large roller1 as you can see in the picture4 ,the large roller is then put into the back of the loom1 and the warp threads are drawn through and prepared so they are attached to the roller where the cloth is to be rolled after it is woven4 ,do you remember how we found the cloth and the warp rollers when we were studying about how cotton cloth is made8 ,for plain silks a loom is used very much like the looms for weaving cotton cloth 7see page #fi72 but1 for fancy silks and beautiful patterns and designs1 the ,jacquard loom like the picture 7see page #abd7 is necessary4 ,this wonderful machine was invented by a ,frenchman1 ,joseph ,marie ,jacquard1 in #ahja4 ,the cards are cut in tiny holes which regulate the pattern and make beautiful designs4 ,the cards control the warp threads and regulate which threads are to be up and which down1 as the shuttle passes over and under4 ,the shuttle is lined with soft seal skin to protect the silk fibers of the filling thread on the bobbin as they unroll4 ,would you too not like to visit a silk factory8 ,perhaps come day you may be able to go to ,paterson or to some large city1 and may see all the wonderful things which ,marjorie's cousin saw4 ,the book pictures will give you a good idea of how a mill or factory looks inside4 ,it is a very busy place4 ,perhaps your teacher may be able to get some stereopticon or motion picture views to show you1 as ,miss ,james showed the ,pleasant ,valley children4 ,she used the church lantern4 ,some of the mothers and fathers came1 too1 to hear the story about silk4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,find on your map the most important city in the ,united ,states for the manufacture of silk4 #b4 ,write a story about the silk throwing4 #c4 ,if there is a silk mill in your neighborhood1 plan to visit it with your teacher4 #d4 ,look up the story of ,jacquard1 the inventor of the loom devices for making beautiful patterns4 ,,lesson #f ,,the ,,blanket ,,stitch ,,can ,,be ,,used ,,in ,,many ,,ways ,did you ever hear of a stitch called the blanket stitch8 ,it is very useful for decoration4 ,we can make some attractive gifts if we know how to make it4 ,would you like to try to-day8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hb4--,the blanket stitch4 ,did you ever notice how pretty some verandas look in summer time8 ,mrs4 ,stark of ,pleasant ,valley has a very attractive1 cosy porch4 ,yours can look pretty1 too1 if you will give thought and a little time to it4 ,you can plant some pretty vines as the girls did at the ,ellen ,h4 ,richards house4 ,the cucumber grows wild and can be transplanted4 ,perhaps in the attic you can find an old table1 which will do to hold your sewing things4 ,can you make a cover for it8 ,perhaps you can make a porch cushion1 too4 ,the blanket stitch 7,fig4 #hb7 will be useful for both4 ,did you ever see a material called ,russian crash8 ,it is made in ,russia1 of coarse linen1 and is often woven in the fields4 ,it is not very wide1 #af or #ah inches only4 ,it is light brown in color4 ,if you cannot get the crash1 perhaps you have some grain or feed bags which will do4 ,you can dip them in coffee to stain them light brown1 as ,marjorie ,allen did when she made a cover for the porch table4 ,a piece #a-yards long and from #af to #bj inches wide will make a good-sized table runner to throw over the old table on the porch4 ,if you use the old bags and the edges are not selvedges1 turn them with one turning -inch wide all around the edges1 and baste4 ,how can you finish the edge of a table runner8 ,you can make the blanket stitch close together around the edge4 ,a heavy mercerized cotton thread can be used for the stitch1 and will look well if it is brown in color to harmonize with the linen or bag4 ,the blanket stitch is used generally for blanket edges which are not hemmed4 ,it is a stitch to prevent material from fraying1 and is taken on the edge of material4 ,when the cloth is not very heavy1 one turning can be made to give firmness to the edge4 ,this is not necessary on blankets or on heavy materials4 ,the stitch is worked from left to right4 ,the edge of the cloth is held towards the worker4 ,start with a few running stitches and bring the needle up near the edge4 ,have the thread under the thumb4 ,insert the needle any depth desired and point needle at right angles to the edge of the cloth1 towards the worker4 ,the needle should come up under the edge and through the loop made by the thread4 ,the thread will be carried along the edge as the stitches are made4 ,in finishing a thread1 take small tiny stitches on the wrong side4 ,in starting a new thread1 bring it up through the last loop at the edge4 ,on some materials the stitches can be or of an inch apart1 or taken very close together as we do when we work on white linen and scallop the edges4 ,the stitches can be or or even an inch deep1 and they can be arranged to form a pattern4 ,in the picture you will see that the stitches are arranged in blocks--twelve low ones of an inch1 and #ab of of an inch4 ,they can also be arranged to form stairs ascending and descending with a difference of of an inch in the depth of each stitch4 ,suppose you plan to make the block pattern of the blanket stitch all around the edge of the table runner4 ,now1 can you make a porch cushion8 ,the porch cushion 7,fig4 #hc7 can be made of a strip of crash or of a piece of bagging1 #a yard long and #af inches wide4 ,hem one end with a #a inch hem and the other with a -inch hem1 turning both to wrong side4 ,fold so that the #a inch hem overlaps the -inch hem4 ,pin carefully4 ,this makes a kind of envelope and it can be filled later with a cushion of bran or excelsior or feathers4 ,fold so that the overlapping of hems comes about #d inches from one end of the cushion4 ,after folding and pinning1 baste carefully through the two thicknesses of material4 ,work the blanket stitch all around four sides with the heavy brown linen or cotton thread4 ,use the same block pattern as for the table cover4 ,the cushion is kept closed with three or four snaps sewed on the hems4 ,these cushions can be made any size for hammock or for porch use4 ,mrs4 ,stark liked ,mollie's so well that she made a whole set for her porch1 and used old bags for this purpose4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hc4--,the porch cushion1 showing the blanket stitch in block pattern1 and the opening near one end4 ,can you think of any pretty articles to make for the fair or for surprise gifts on which the blanket stitch can be used8 ,have you ever scalloped the edges of doilies with plain scallop8 ,the white linen can be cut in circles to fit the size of the plates and the edge marked in scallops by using a spool4 ,the stitch is exactly the same1 but the stitches are taken very close together and cover the two lines of the marked scallop which indicate the depth4 ,doilies are very useful instead of a tablecloth4 ,they are easily laundered and save the heavy washing4 ,a bare wooden table which is kept clean and oiled is very attractive when set with doilies4 7,see ,food and ,health1 page #gc74 ,can you make a set sometime as a surprise for mother's ,christmas gift8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hd4--;,blanket stitch made close together for a scalloped edge4 ,pincushion tops1 bureau covers1 table covers1 tray covers1 centerpieces1 can all be made with this useful stitch4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,draw a picture on the blackboard of the blanket stitch4 #b4 ,bring to school some article on which the blanket stitch is used in some way4 ,have an exhibit of all the articles brought4 ,,lesson #g ,,learning ,,to ,,make ,,the ,,cross-,,stitch ,did your grandmother ever tell you how she learned to sew when she was a girl8 ,have you seen her sewing sampler8 ,shall we learn the stitch she used on her sampler8 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,metropolitan ,museum of ,art4 ,,fig4 #he4--,two samplers of long ago4 ,before the days of sewing machines1 the family sewing was all done at home and by hand4 ,to-day we have factories and shops1 and we can buy many articles of clothing ready-made4 ,all little girls were taught to sew at home in those days4 ,sewing was not generally taught at school4 ,many long seams were given to the girls to sew4 ,the girls had much practice and learned to sew very well4 ,every little girl was supposed to make a sampler4 ,the picture shows two samplers 7,fig4 #he74 ,barbara ,oakes has two samplers which she values very much because her great-grandmother and grandmother made them4 ,perhaps you may have one which your grandmother made4 ,the stitch used for the samplers was usually the cross-stitch 7,fig4 #hg74 ,would you like to learn to make it1 too8 ,it is a decorative stitch and is often used for marking linen4 ,grandmother and great-grandmother used to mark their sheets1 pillowcases1 and other household linens with tiny initials of cross-stitch4 ,it is possible1 also1 to make quaint designs of the same stitch4 ,perhaps you would like to learn to make such a pattern4 ,it is necessary to have squared paper and to make the crosses conform to the figures or initials wished4 ,the picture 7,fig4 #hf7 shows how to make the crosses fit the squares4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hf4--;,cross-stitch designs can be easily made on squared paper4 ,a1 initials for towel2 ,b1 design for repetition on table cover or scarf4 ,will you try to make a design for the cross-stitch8 ,as the design is made on the squares1 it is necessary to use squared canvas called ,penelope canvas in working this cross-stitch4 ,the canvas is basted in place and the stitches made over the squares of the canvas1 following the design of the pattern4 ,there are some coarse materials which can be followed without using canvas4 ,the canvas is woven so loosely that after the cross-stitch design is finished1 the threads are drawn out4 ,how to make the stitch3 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hg4--,the cross-stitch4 ,baste the canvas carefully so that the warp of the canvas lies on the warp of the cloth4 ,the canvas comes in several sizes1 some finer than others1 and this makes a difference in the size of the design when finished4 ,the stitch consists of two slanting lines crossed4 ,on the wrong side all the stitches may be either vertical or horizontal1 but should be one or the other4 ,do you know the difference8 ,the canvas is so woven that one makes the cross over two threads high and two wide4 ,bring needle up to right side at lower left corner of the square that the stitch would form if inclosed 7,fig4 #hg74 ,pass thread slanting across warp threads1 and take stitch on line with warp1 pointing needle towards the worker4 ,when thread is drawn through1 a slanting line of half the cross is made4 ,this can be repeated across a whole row according to design1 and the cross finished by returning from right to left with the same vertical stitches4 ,it is necessary to have all the stitches of the design crossing one way3 the ground stitches1 or first half1 one way2 the other half1 or upper stitches1 all the other4 ,what pretty gifts can be made from the cross-stitch8 ,towels hemstitched across the ends and marked with cross-stitch make attractive gifts for mother or grandmother4 ,a pretty set for a baby is made by marking bath towel1 face towel1 and wash cloths with a pretty wreath design with baby's initial4 ,bureau covers1 table scarfs1 pincushions can be made4 ,here is a picture 7,fig4 #hh7 of a simple hand towel with cross-stitch initials4 ,the towel is made of huckaback1 all linen4 ,you remember it can be bought in all cotton1 too1 or a combination4 ,which is more expensive8 ,the width varies4 ,the picture shows a small guest towel #ah inches wide4 ,it is easy to learn to hemstitch linen4 ,shall we try next lesson8 ,the picture 7,fig4 #hh7 shows fancy hemstitching and drawn work4 ,we shall learn the plain hemstitching4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hh4--;,a guest towel marked with cross-stitch4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,if any one in your town has an old sampler1 try to get it for a loan exhibit1 while the girls are making their cross-stitching4 #b4 ,make a design for cross-stitch work suitable for an end of a towel or for any article you wish4 ,,lesson #h ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,the ,,hemstitch ,do you know that some girls are often confused and call the hemstitch1 the hemming stitch8 ,barbara ,oakes used to1 but understands now4 ,you have learned the hemming stitch2 now you will try the hemstitch4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hi4--,the hemstitch4 ,see if you can discover the difference between the hemming stitch and the hemstitch8 ,both are used at the top of the hem to hold it in place1 but often the hemstitch is used in other places1 too4 ,it is necessary to draw out some threads of the cloth or linen1 before the stitch can be made4 ,for the hemstitched towel1 measure for your hem4 ,from the raw edge1 it will be twice the width of the finished hem plus one turning of -inch4 ,how much1 then1 will you measure for a hem one inch when finished8 ,at the point measured1 place a pin4 ,draw out three or four of the woof threads very carefully4 ,be sure to pull out the whole thread all the way across1 when it breaks4 ,remember how the filling thread passes at the selvedge1 and remove it there as it turns4 ,then baste the hem very carefully1 turning to wrong side4 ,baste close to first drawn thread4 ,hold work over fingers of left hand in vertical position4 ,place needle in edge of hem1 and draw thread without a knot under the edge of hem just exactly as plain hemming is started 7,fig4 #hi74 ,throw thread away from the worker2 take up a bundle of the threads by passing the needle under them and pointing it towards the worker along the edge of the hem4 ,again pass the needle under the same bundle of threads1 but this time pass the needle through the under cloth and also through the edge of the turned hem1 just beyond the bundle4 ,this stitch should come between two bundles of thread4 ,make the next stitch by taking up a second bundle of threads4 ,at first1 one should count the number of threads so as to have the bundles uniform2 but with practice this is not necessary4 ,as a rule1 the coarser the material1 the fewer the number of threads taken up4 ,this is a simple way of hemstitching4 ,there are other ways4 ,double hemstitching means to hemstitch the other side opposite the hem1 by taking up the same bundles4 ,marjorie ,allen made ,grandmother ,allen a lovely hemstitched towel for ,christmas4 ,she was very much surprised and delighted to have some of ,marjorie's own work4 ,marjorie tied it up very daintily in white tissue paper and used some ,christmas seals to hold it fast4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,now that you know the hemstitch1 you can use it in many places4 ,can you tell how it differs from the hemming stitch8 #b4 ,think of some useful things on which this stitch can be made besides those mentioned below3-- ,collars ,bags ,handkerchiefs ,cuffs ,covers ,doilies ,,lesson #i ,,another ,,useful ,,gift ,,and ,a ,,new ,,stitch ,have you ever noticed how convenient it is to have a place for the clothespins1 on wash day8 ,would you like to learn to make a clothespin bag8 ,how to make another gift4 ,a very useful clothespin bag 7,fig4 #ij7 for mother can be easily made with a hammock hook and some ticking4 ,mrs4 ,allen says she cannot keep house without hers4 ,did you learn about ticking when you studied cotton materials8 ,pillow covers and mattresses are made of it1 as it is heavy and strong and wears very well4 ,put a piece in your cotton sample book4 ,it is woven #cf inches wide and costs from #ab-;cents up4 ,notice the weave4 ,it is twilled or striped or herringbone weave4 ,denim or any heavy material can be used4 ,a square piece is necessary1 #bh #bh inches4 ,hem4 ,first turning1 -inch2 second turning1 one inch4 ,stitch on machine4 ,miter the corners4 ,the corners are to be sewed securely with heavy linen thread to the four corners of the hammock hook 7,fig4 #ij74 ,the hook is hung on the clothesline1 and it is very easy and handy to push along as the clothes are hung up4 ,if one wishes1 the bag can be decorated with a catch stitch4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ij4--,the clothespin bag4 ,how to make the catch stitch or herringbone stitch4 ,this stitch can be used for decoration or for catching the edges of a seam or hem4 ,grandmother ,allen used to use it on her own flannel petticoats and on baby ,alice's flannel skirts4 ,after the plain seam is made1 it is opened flat and the edges are caught with the loose catch stitch4 ,it is really a flannel stitch1 because1 as the flannel may shrink a little1 the stitch allows for this1 and holds the hem flat4 ,flannel hems do not have the first turning as it is so thick4 ,the catch stitch is then used to hold the hem4 ,can you bring one of baby's petticoats to show the class how it looks8 ,the same stitch is used for decoration too4 ,we shall use it for that purpose on the clothespin bag1 before we sew the corners to the hook4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ia4--,the catch stitch4 ,the stitch is made from left to right4 ,we can use the machine stitching for a guide4 ,we shall use the stitch on the right side4 ,it resembles cross-stitch4 ,it is really a series of back stitches placed alternately above and below the guide line4 ,the spaces between stitches should be the same and the stitches below the guide line opposite the spaces above 7,fig4 #ia74 ,this causes the thread to slant and makes the cross1 as it is worked from left to right4 ,to start1 draw needle to right side about -inch below the line of machine stitch4 ,the first back stitch is taken -inch above the machine stitching4 ,this will make the slanting line1 as the stitch is -inch beyond the starting place4 ,the second stitch is taken below the line2 and the directions as above are followed so that stitches come opposite the spaces1 above and below4 ,in finishing an old thread1 take two or three small stitches on wrong side4 ,in beginning a new thread1 draw up as at the start1 so as to form the correct cross on the right side4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,this herringbone or catch stitch can be used in many places4 ,can you suggest any8 #b4 ,draw a picture of this stitch on the blackboard4 #c4 ,show some neighbor how to make this stitch4 ,,lesson #aj ,,the ,,darning ,,stitch ,did you know that sometimes darning is used for decoration instead of just on the stocking8 ,let us make a gift using it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ib4--,the darning stitches make the initials stand out4 ,the darning stitch is nothing but fine running stitches placed alternately under one another so as to fill a space4 ,miss ,james has asked the girls to make linen covers for their cooking notebooks4 ,they decide to put their two initials on the cover and to work them in outline stitch4 ,the sketch 7,fig4 #ib7 shows how they will make them within an oblong which is also to be outlined4 ,the darning stitch will be used as a background to make the initials stand out4 ,it is a fine running stitch4 ,any design can be made to stand out by arranging the darning back of the outlined design4 ,the notebooks will be covered so that the covers may slip off4 ,this is done by overhanding the edges and slipping the cover of the book into the pocket formed by the overhanding4 ,the cover is all in one3 a straight piece folded back inside the cover of book and overhanded at the folds1 to hold the book4 ,the picture 7,fig4 #ic7 of baby's bib also shows the use of the darning stitch to make a design stand out4 ,this is a bib used by little ,alice ,allen4 ,marjorie made it for her1 when she was two years old and had a birthday party4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ic4--,the darning stitch makes the design of the rabbits stand out4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,make a design for your notebook cover4 #b4 ,calculate size of piece of material needed1 if both covers are #i ,x #f4 ,allow -inch turnings all around4 #c4 ,try to plan a design with a background of darning stitches4 ,perhaps you can use it on a ,christmas gift for brother4 ,,review ,,problems ,i4 ,plan a gift for father's ,christmas on which the darning or cross-stitch is used4 ,,ii4 ,look up the story of the history of silk culture and write a story to be read in school4 ,perhaps it may be as good as the one ,barbara ,oakes wrote4 ,her story was printed in the ,pleasant ,valley ,news4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,iv ,,the ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,girls ,,learn ,,to ,,care ,,for ,,their ,,clothes ,,and ,,to ,,help ,,repair ,,the ,,household ,,linen4 ,have you ever noticed that some houses where you visit are always neat and look well cared for1 and that the towels and table linen are carefully darned or patched8 ,have you seen what a difference there is in the appearance of the people who do not care for their houses and clothing1 and those who do8 ,the latter are apt to wear neat-looking shirt waists1 to patch the worn places and darn the holes before they are too large1 and to sew on the buttons before they are lost4 ,the little word ,c-,a-,r-,e is responsible for the difference4 ,have you learned to help at home to repair and care for the clothing and household linens8 ,a stitch in time saves nine4 ,it often saves money and time1 too4 ,do you know why8 ,learn how4 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls learned to darn and patch and occasionally ,miss ,james had a repair day1 when all were permitted to bring their mending4 ,can you do this at your school8 ,,lesson #a ,,care ,,of ,,clothes ,what are some of the things to learn in order to care for one's clothes8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #id4--;,ethel ,allen remembers about the lesson on neatness4 ,she is removing a spot4 ,marjorie ,allen's ,cousin ,ann1 who lives at ,paterson1 ,new ,jersey1 spends her summer vacation with ,marjorie at ,pleasant ,valley4 ,marjorie knows that she earns ten dollars a week at the office and pays all her own expenses4 ,she always looks very neat and well dressed4 ,what is the secret8 ,she has learned how to spend wisely and how to care for her clothing4 ,she learned much of this at school1 and experience has taught her how to manage4 ,suppose we learn1 too1 so as to be able to care for our clothes4 ,here are some of the things ,marjorie's cousin learned3 #a4 ,that clothes1 if well brushed1 look better4 #b4 ,a well-pressed suit or skirt lasts longer and looks neater4 #c4 ,stains or spots spoil one's neat appearance and look careless4 #d4 ,a patch or a darn is no disgrace4 ,they make one feel more self-respecting than holes or tears4 ,they help to increase the life of a garment1 too1 if taken in time4 #e4 ,that being careful each day saves much time2 a little care is worth while4 ,let us study to-day how to do some of these things4 ,perhaps we can clean our school coats or some wool garments brought from home4 ,brushing clothes4 ,many people who live in large cities do not have gardens and yards where they can hang their clothes and brush them4 ,often brushing and cleaning must be done on the roofs of houses4 ,how glad we should be for space and a chance to keep clean4 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls have studied about this4 ,do you know that it costs to keep clean8 ,it takes time and energy and much thought4 ,people who live in the country can keep clean more easily than city people4 ,this is a good way to air and brush your cloth garments3 ,hang them on the line1 and beat with a clothes beater4 ,turn the cuffs or collars and pockets inside out if possible4 ,brush with a whisk brush carefully all over4 ,shake free from dust and let them hang in the sunshine4 ,they will smell sweet and clean4 ,pressing suits and skirts4 ,a suit or skirt which is kept well pressed has a neater appearance and keeps its shape for a longer time4 ,tailors do this work2 but one can learn to do it at home1 if no tailor is near1 and can save the money1 too1 if one has the time4 ,it is a good general rule to press on the wrong side unless one is using the steaming process4 ,then1 one presses on the right side1 over dampened cloth4 ,wring the cloth1 place over a portion of the garment1 and press with hot irons until nearly dry4 ,after steaming the garment all over on the right side1 turn to the wrong side and press dry4 ,woolen goods will mark or shine if pressed on the right side without a cloth4 ,this pressing will add to the life of a suit4 ,good press boards1 tailors' cushions1 and sleeve boards help very much if one has them4 ,it is always wise to examine clothes before pressing and to remove any spots which have accumulated4 ,grease1 milk1 oil1 sugar are common spots which girls are apt to get on their woolen clothing4 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls studied how to remove these4 ,removing stains and spots4 ,woolen goods which are soiled and badly spotted can be cleaned by washing in warm water with soap solution or soap bark4 ,here are some recipes for making soap solution or soap bark3 ,soap ,solution4 ,simmer 7do not boil7 one cake of white soap in two or three quarts of water4 ,soap ,bark4 #a cup of soap bark or powder in three or four quarts of water4 ,let it stand two hours4 ,strain and pour into the lukewarm water in which the material is to be washed4 ,why is lukewarm water used8 ,wash and rinse carefully4 ,always use water of same temperature for rinsing4 ,what would the shock of cold water do8 ,bath temperature is about right4 ,all woolen garments should be washed and rinsed carefully in lukewarm water only4 ,some day we shall try at school4 ,good pure white soap is best for woolens4 ,why do woolens shrink in hot water8 ,why are they difficult to cleanse8 ,let us examine the school coats to see if we can find grease4 ,as a rule grease spots can be removed by washing with soap solution and lukewarm water4 ,wagon grease can be removed with lard2 then wash in warm water4 ,grease may also be removed by dry cleaning1 or chemical cleaning as it is called4 ,the cleaning liquid may be benzine or ether4 ,this is a warning3 ,d-,a-,n-,g-,e-,r4 ,these must not be used near fire or an explosion will occur4 ,a bad accident occurred at ,pleasant ,valley in just this way when ,mrs4 ,leroy was cleaning her white gloves4 ,rub the spot on the wool garment with a cloth or sponge wet with benzine4 ,the grease or fat spreads when dissolved2 a piece of blotting paper under will help to absorb some of the grease4 ,care must be taken to use fresh benzine as each rub removes some of the fat1 which will spread if rubbed in again4 ,it is usually wise to use as a sponge a piece of the same material4 ,rub towards the center so as to avoid a ring4 ,the spot cleaned will usually be lighter than the rest of the garment1 which is apt to be soiled4 ,sometimes by rubbing the surface near the spot all over1 the ring will not be noticeable4 ,another way to remove grease is to try a warm iron and a blotting paper4 ,place paper on right side1 iron on the wrong side of the cloth4 ,this will remove some grease spots1 as the blotter absorbs it4 ,marjorie ,allen discovered that sugar spots can be removed with warm water4 ,dip cloth in water and wash thoroughly and rinse before pressing4 ,what does the warm water do to the sugar8 ,milk spots can be removed from some materials with cold water and pure white soap4 ,why cold8 ,machine oil spots can be removed by washing in cold water and pure white soap4 ,this will remove most machine oil spots4 ,barbara ,oakes got some oil on her nightdress while making it1 and removed the oil easily in this way4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,miss ,alice ,blair4 ,,fig4 #ie4--,which way do you arrange clothes in your closet8 ,these simple rules will help every girl to be neat4 ,let us see how many garments you can clean at home after you have learned to brush1 clean1 and press one at school4 ,protecting clothes4 ,marjorie's cousin takes good care of her clothing while it is in use4 ,when she works about the house she always wears an apron4 ,do you8 ,this saves a great deal4 ,you know how to make some attractive ones4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #if4--;,a useful cover to protect your best dress4 ,when she removes her clothing it is not thrown in a heap1 but is hung up on skirt or coat hangers4 ,they are very cheap or one can make them4 ,barrel staves or even rolls of newspaper1 rolled securely and covered may be used as coat hangers1 a cord or ribbon may be tied at the center4 ,nails between two points in a closet will keep the bands of skirts extended1 when loops are sewed to the bands4 ,marjorie's cousin always airs her clothes at night 7,fig4 #ef71 and when necessary washes her shields and hangs them up to dry4 ,many girls do not realize how necessary this is4 ,the odor of perspiration is not neat and is offensive to others4 ,if one washes one's self carefully with warm water in which borax has been dissolved this odor will not be noticeable4 ,marjorie noticed that her cousin has covers over her good clothes 7,fig4 #if74 ,this saves a great deal4 ,also she is particular about sewing buttons on her shoes1 and braid on her skirt when it is torn4 ,she also washes the yokes of her dresses and sometimes her own shirt waists4 ,she is going to teach ,marjorie to do this4 ,some day we shall learn at school4 ,do you know that ,marjorie discovered that the people at the summer boarding houses near have difficulty in having their dainty shirt waists carefully laundered4 ,she is going to practice during the winter and next summer she will earn some money in that way4 ,it is a good idea4 ,perhaps some day she may have a laundry of her own1 if she is a good manager and can have help to work with her4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ig4--;,cousin ,ann thinks about these things4 ,cousin ,ann told ,marjorie that each winter she is particular about buying a pair of rubbers4 ,she finds they save her shoes because they prevent the dampness and wet from rotting the thread of the shoes4 ,she is particular about having her heels straight4 ,cousin ,ann believes that many girls lose good positions because they are not clean and neat about their personal appearance4 ,run over heels are not neat4 ,ann is careful about having her shoes resoled when necessary1 and so lengthens their life4 ,she wears an old pair of shoes on rainy days with her rubbers4 ,ann knows that wet feet are dangerous4 ,one may not feel the results at once1 but sometime the effect on health will be felt4 ,next lesson let us learn how to keep our clothing darned4 ,you may bring any garment or towel or other piece of household linen which has a tear1 and we shall learn to darn it4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,carry some of your clothes to the back yard4 ,brush them1 and hang them in the sunshine4 #b4 ,try at home to press your wool skirt4 ,steam it2 it is not difficult to do4 #c4 ,do you know of any other way besides those ,cousin ,ann tried1 of keeping your clothes clean so as to prevent them from getting spotted8 #d4 ,do you not think that knowing how to launder shirt waists carefully would be a good way to earn money when the summer boarders come to your town8 ,,lesson #b ,,learning ,,to ,,darn ,,straight ,,tears ,what threads of the cloth are torn1 in a square tear8 ,in a straight tear8 ,how can we replace these threads and prevent the article from tearing further8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ih4--,these tears run in different directions4 ,which kind of a tear will you have to darn in your dress8 ,there is always a collection of garments needing repairs in any home where there are boys and girls4 ,what a help it will be to mother to have some one who can darn some of the tears4 ,mrs4 ,alden was very glad that ,florence was learning to darn1 for she has so many things to patch and darn for her family4 ,how many different kinds of tears have been brought to-day8 ,yes1 here is a straight tear on this napkin2 yes1 two straight tears4 ,who can tell which threads have been torn in this first tear8 ,find the selvedge2 the tear runs across the selvedge4 ,in the second straight tear1 the tear runs up and down with the selvedge1 or warp4 ,which threads have been torn8 ,here is a garment with a square corner tear4 ,john ,alden tore his overalls climbing over the barbed wire fence4 ,in this tear which threads have been torn8 ,so we see that in some tears1 the warp is torn2 in others1 the filling threads2 and in others1 like the square tear1 both warp and filling threads4 ,now darning means putting back the threads which have been worn or torn away4 ,miss ,james told her class it is very useful to keep some black and white wash net in the mending basket4 ,a little piece basted under the worn or torn place to be darned is a great help2 for it renforces the weak place and makes it last longer4 ,it is put on the wrong side of the article to be darned4 ,the picture 7,fig4 #ih7 shows two straight tears3 a slanting one1 and also a square corner tear4 ,everyone knows how to make the running stitch4 ,darning is fine running4 ,begin without a knot and a little beyond the tear for strength4 ,fill in the missing thread with rows of stitches close together4 ,the stitches should extend far enough each side of the tear to take in the worn part also4 ,in turning at the end of each row1 leave a tiny loop4 ,why8 ,do not leave a very large one1 but simply one large enough to allow for stretching and pulling in washing4 ,in passing over the threads at the torn place1 try to make the stitches hold down the threads4 ,in finishing extend the rows beyond the tear as at the beginning4 ,either a warp or woof straight tear is mended in this way4 ,a square tear is a combination of the two4 ,at the corner there will then be both warp and filling threads and a double darn like a weave4 ,can you see from the picture how this will look8 ,the thread should match as nearly as possible4 ,sometimes horsehair or human hair makes a good darning thread when one does not wish the darn to show1 or split silk thread or ,no4 #aej cotton4 ,ravelings of the same cloth are sometimes used4 ,the size of the needle will depend on the fineness of the cloth to be darned4 ,no4 #h is right for ordinary darning4 ,where can you use this darn8 ,is it the same as stocking darn8 ,next lesson every one is to bring from home a stocking1 white1 brown1 or black4 ,can you mend one at school to surprise mother or father or brother8 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls did4 ,mr4 ,allen said ,marjorie darned his socks so well that he couldn't even feel the darn when he walked6 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,show mother how you can mend a straight tear by mending one for her at home4 ,perhaps there is a straight tear in her dress1 or in a towel or napkin4 #b4 ,why is it worth while to mend it8 ,,lesson #c ,,darning ,,stockings ,we all have stockings to darn each week as they come from the laundry4 ,do you mend the small holes at once1 or let them grow larger8 ,it is always a saving of time and energy to take care of the small holes2 small ones grow to be larger ones if one is not careful4 ,it pays to mend at once4 ,we will learn how to mend stockings4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,h4 ,brinton ,co4 ,,fig4 #ii4--,the knitting machine4 ,caps1 stockings1 and underwear are made on similar machines4 ,stocking darning differs from darning the straight or the square tear1 because1 as a rule1 there is a hole in the stocking4 ,the stocking material is worn away1 and it is necessary to replace it with a small piece of weaving over and under of warp and filling4 ,a patch or extra piece of material might be placed under the hole1 but that would be uncomfortable2 so a woven piece is put in4 ,the stocking is made of knitted material called stockinet1 not of woven cloth4 ,how do they differ8 ,can you think of other articles of clothing made of knitted material8 ,yes1 mittens1 sweaters1 caps1 underwear4 ,have you ever seen a knitting machine8 ,here is a picture 7,fig4 #ii7 of one showing how the stocking is knitted in the factory to-day on the knitting machines4 ,in weaving there are two threads4 ,what are they8 ,in knitting there is only one thread2 just like grandmother's knitting of the stocking round and round as the tiny loops are formed4 ,have you ever torn your stocking in a loop and had it run right down the whole leg of the stocking8 ,barbara ,oakes had this experience4 ,that shows how the tiny loops are made4 ,if one catches the loop1 the raveling is prevented4 ,this is how we shall darn our stockings4 ,use single or double darning thread1 according to the fineness of the stocking1 and a darning needle4 ,can you thread the big eye by doubling the end of the thread8 ,begin on the wrong side without a knot1 about of an inch to the right of the hole4 ,the stitches are the same fine running as for other darning1 and the rows made close together4 ,look at the picture 7,fig4 #ajj74 ,the darn is about diamond shape when finished4 ,why8 ,this prevents the strain from coming on any one row of loops4 ,a tiny loop is left at each row in turning1 as stockinet is a stretchy material4 ,this darning should run the same way as the loops1 up and down the material4 ,care must be taken at the hole4 ,if possible1 pass the needle through the loop at the edge of the hole and extend the thread across the hole to the loop opposite1 and continue with the darning stitch4 ,when the warp is all in1 there will be rows of threads close together extending across the hole4 ,in fine darning or when one is darning sweaters or gloves1 all the loops at the edge of the hole should be carefully caught4 ,for everyday stocking darning1 one does not have time to stop for every loop at the edge of the hole4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajj4--;,a1 the wrong side of the stocking darn putting in the first set of threads2 ,b1 weaving in the second thread4 ,as we said above1 the hole is to be filled in with a piece of woven material which we are making4 ,the warp 7,fig4 #ajj ,a7 has all been put in2 then we must go over part of the darn and fill in the cross threads1 which are woven over and under the warp threads which have been put in at the hole4 ,the running stitch is used4 ,the sketch 7,fig4 #ajj ,b7 shows the portion of the darn to be covered with the running stitches1 and just where the weaving is to be done4 ,you will notice that the first row of crosswise running stitches is placed a little below the hole1 and the last row extends a little above4 ,why8 ,at the hole one must go over and under the warp1 alternately1 as one does in weaving4 ,this is all done with one thread which is carried in fine running stitches to the hole1 then passes over and under the warp threads1 and continues with running stitches at the other side of darn2 turns with a tiny loop1 continues with running1 and again passes over and under the warp alternately4 ,this is continued until the darn is completed4 ,sometimes there are tiny rips in the seams of stockings4 ,they can be overhanded carefully on the wrong side1 taking up only the very edges of the seam so as not to make a ridge4 ,if the long ladders which sometimes come in stockings are not too wide1 they can be overhanded together on the wrong side2 or1 if one has time1 they can be darned as a hole4 ,as a rule this is a waste of time4 ,a worn place near a hole should be included in a darn1 or where several small holes are close together1 darn in one large darn4 ,what kind of stockings do you buy8 ,marjorie's ,cousin ,ann says it does not pay her to buy very cheap stockings1 at #ae cents a pair1 or very thin ones either4 ,she has discovered that if she pays #be cents a pair or a dollar for three pairs of a good make1 and cares for them1 watching when the tiny holes appear1 that she can make six pairs last a whole year4 ,ann says that the girls who buy the very thin transparent stockings are buying stockings all the time2 and then1 too1 they are often ridiculed by others4 ,one is not well dressed when one is conspicuous and when one's clothing is noticed and criticized in such a way4 ,next lesson you may bring a stocking which has been darned at home4 ,credit will be given for this4 ,do you think you can darn one all alone8 ,it is not difficult if one follows carefully the description above4 ,you may also bring a linen towel or napkin or tablecloth which has a hole4 ,we shall learn how to patch the holes4 ,the ,pleasant ,valley pupils had a darning contest4 ,mrs4 ,allen was invited to be the judge4 ,who do you suppose made the best-looking stocking darn8 ,mollie ,stark won4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,darn one of father's socks or baby sister's stocking or any other you can at home4 ,surprise mother by showing her how well you can darn1 after your school practice4 ,,lesson #d ,,patching ,,saves ,,clothing ,,and ,,other ,,articles ,some holes are too large to darn2 they are1 then1 repaired with a patch4 ,would you like to learn how to patch8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aja4--,the patch as it should look on the wrong side in process of hemming4 ,how to make the hemmed patch4 ,a patch is a piece of cloth cut larger than the worn hole and used to cover the hole4 ,the hemmed patch is the simplest and most useful4 ,it is sewed with the hemming stitch and so called the hemmed patch because all the rough edges of the patch are turned under and hemmed flat4 ,this kind of patch is used on garments or household articles which are to be laundered4 ,it is a good one for towels1 napkins1 or tablecloths1 and for underwear4 ,perhaps you have some tablecloths1 napkins1 and towels which have been brought to patch to-day4 ,miss ,james brought some for her class4 ,for patches some girls brought pieces as nearly like the towels and napkins which they brought as possible4 ,it is better to patch with material which has been used1 than with new material4 ,why8 ,the hemmed patch is always put on the wrong side4 ,cut a square or oblong piece which will cover the hole1 and extend beyond the worn part4 ,allow -inch extra all around for turnings4 ,crease this patch diagonally4 ,find the center of the hole of the worn article4 ,crease it in diagonal lines for a square or oblong1 according to shape of place to be patched4 ,pin patch on wrong side so that diagonal creases of patch fall on diagonal creases of the article4 ,turn to right side4 ,cut the hole1 removing all frayed edges until it is a true square or oblong1 measuring from the center where diagonal creases cross4 ,after cutting1 make a tiny slanting cut from to -inch at each corner on the diagonal creases of the article1 and turn under these cut edges4 ,pin and baste carefully4 ,turn to wrong side4 ,hold to light to see if the patch is the same width on all sides of the hole4 ,trim if necessary4 ,remove pins1 flatten1 turn edges of the patch by opposites1 and baste4 ,the hemming stitch is then used on both the right and wrong sides of the patch to hold the edges4 ,this patch is laundered flat and neat4 ,for next lesson we shall study about the table linen and towels4 ,we know that some of them are linen4 ,where does linen come from8 ,do you know whether it is a plant or an animal8 ,there are several reference books on the shelf4 ,see how much you can discover about this secret4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajb4--;,hemming the patch in place1 on the right side4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,practice making a hemmed patch at home4 ,mother will surely have a tablecloth or an undergarment or an apron which needs a patch4 ,try to keep the patch very flat4 #b4 ,see how much you can learn about linen before next lesson4 ,,lesson #e ,,the ,,story ,,of ,,how ,,linen ,,is ,,grown ,what is the story of our linen materials8 ,where do they come from8 ,would you like to know8 ,mollie's ,stark's ,uncle ,john has just come to ,pleasant ,valley4 ,he is her father's brother and has been in the linen business in ,ireland4 ,he told the ,girls' ,league the other evening about flax and about how it is made into cloth4 ,this is the story he told4 ,it has also been printed in the ,pleasant ,valley ,news4 ,have you read it8 ,where does flax grow8 ,ireland is a cool country1 and flax is a plant which grows well in cool places4 ,cotton1 we have learned1 is grown in warm countries4 ,do you know that ,russia produces about half of the world's supply of flax8 ,find your map of ,europe1 and see if you can locate all these countries4 ,the ,russian flax is rather inferior in quality4 ,ireland and ,belgium produce the best quality of fiber4 ,flax is also grown in ,holland and ,france1 and in ,egypt and ,italy4 ,the ,united ,states grows some flax2 but it is a rather coarse fiber used for crash and for bagging4 ,the ,united ,states grows very little flax and only for the coarser purposes4 ,this is for the reason that labor is very expensive2 and flax1 like silk1 needs much care if weeded and grown for fiber4 ,the care of the worms makes silk expensive4 ,flax grown for seed or coarse purposes does not require so much care4 ,illustration3 ,,fig #ajc4--,the flax plant grows #bj to #dj inches in height4 ,what is the flax plant8 ,perhaps your teacher will buy some flax seed which you can plant in the school garden4 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls did1 and it grew quite tall4 ,then you can really see how the growing plant looks4 ,your teacher will have some dry flax to show you4 ,do you know how a waving field of wheat or oats looks8 ,flax is planted thickly when it is grown for its fiber4 ,it comes up straight like the wheat and does not branch4 ,when it is planted for its seed1 it is not planted so thickly because it must have more room to branch and bear seed4 ,flaxseed is used for many purposes4 ,flaxseed1 or linseed1 oil is used for paints and varnishes1 and even for food1 in some countries4 ,like cotton seed1 the dry cake1 or meal1 left is a valuable food for cattle4 ,has mother ever used the oil or the meal for anything at home8 ,the flax plant as it grows is from #bj to #dj inches in height4 ,it has lovely little blue flowers on the stems which branch at the top4 ,uncle ,john knew a little girl at ,pleasant ,valley who thought the flax came from the little brown seed pods on top1 just as the cotton comes from the seed pod1 or boll4 ,it does not2 for the flax fiber is the part of the long stem which grows just inside of the outside woody portion4 ,so1 you see flax fibers can be from #bj to #dj inches long1 according to the height of the plant4 ,the wonderful part of the story is how the fibers are removed from the long stems4 ,how is flax grown8 ,flax requires much hand labor in its care while growing4 ,the women and children in ,europe weed it and care for it1 on their hands and knees4 ,when it is full grown and the flowers have come and gone1 the tiny seed pods grow where the flowers have fallen1 just like the seed pods your peonies or poppies grow4 ,before the seeds are quite ripe1 and while the stalks are brownish yellow1 the flax is ready to be pulled4 ,it is not cut like wheat with the reaper and gathered into bundles1 but must be pulled up by the roots4 ,this is done in clear weather1 by hand4 ,the pulled flax is laid on the ground with the roots together and the stalks parallel4 ,the stalks are then bound something like the wheat1 and stacked in stooks4 ,you have often seen oats or wheat so stacked4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture4 ,,fig4 #ajd4--,the stooks of flax4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,speyer ,school1 ,new ,york4 ,,fig4 #aje4--,this little girl is rippling flax by hand at school4 ,can you see the seeds8 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,woolman ,mc,gowan1 ,textiles4 ,,fig4 #ajf4--;,flax retting at ,courtrai1 ,belgium4 ,what is rippling and retting flax8 ,the next process is to remove all the seeds without injuring the long fibers4 ,the machine for this looks like a comb made of iron teeth set in a wooden frame4 ,this frame is placed on a cloth so as to collect all the seed as it falls4 ,this is called rippling1 and is done in the fields4 ,the seed pods are drawn across the teeth which remove the seeds4 ,then the flax is bound in bundles for the next process1 which is retting4 ,this is really the most important part of all1 for it means rotting the outside woody portion of the stem so as to get the flax fiber4 ,this woody portion is of no value4 ,the flax is sometimes retted by dew2 just left on the ground at night4 ,you know how wet the grass can be early in the morning4 ,so the dew1 rain1 air1 and sunshine decompose the outside woody bark4 ,this is a very slow process4 ,more often flax is retted in water4 ,the bundles are placed in crates or boxes1 and left for about two weeks under water4 ,if you grow some flax1 you can ret it also and remove the fiber4 ,do you know what takes place when the woody part decomposes8 ,it is called fermentation4 ,what have you learned about fermentation8 7,see ,food and ,health47 ,after retting1 the flax is spread to dry in the fields and is then ready for the next process1 called breaking4 ,just think of how many things have been done to the fibers of our linen towels and napkins and dresses1 which we use every day4 ,jane ,smith said she never realized before how many hands prepare our clothing and other materials4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,speyer ,school1 ,new ,york4 ,,fig4 #ajg4--;,flax breaking done by hand4 ,what is meant by breaking flax8 ,breaking means removing the dry wood portion which has been decomposed by the retting4 ,this is sometimes done by means of a hand break4 ,in the picture 7,fig4 #ajg7 you will see a little girl of ,pleasant ,valley breaking flax by hand4 ,sometimes the woody part is broken away by passing the flax between rollers of a machine which is run by power4 ,these power mills are called scutching mills2 scutching means cleaning and breaking4 ,after this process the flax lies in long bundles of parallel fibers1 something like a girl's hair as it is ready to be braided4 ,the flax varies in color2 sometimes it is gray or of a greenish tint1 and sometimes pale yellow4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajh4--;,flax fibers magnified4 ,if you have a microscope or a glass at school1 examine the flax fiber4 ,see how it looks1 rough and woody4 ,it also looks something like the silk fibers1 straight4 ,it has tiny markings or spots called nodes4 ,flax is principally cellulose4 ,do you know what cellulose means8 ,look it up in the dictionary4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aji4--,the mummies of ,egypt are found wrapped in linen cloth made from flax long ago4 ,so you see that the long fibers are freed from the stem of the flax plant and are ready for the manufacturer to spin into yarn to be woven into cloth1 or to make it into cord1 rope1 twine1 lace1 or thread for many useful purposes4 ,isn't this an interesting story8 ,flax cultivation is one of the most ancient industries4 ,think how very useful it is1 both for fiber and for seed4 ,it has been grown for at least #ejjj years in ,egypt and in ,assyria4 ,do you remember reading about the ancient mummies which have been found wrapped in linen in the tombs of ,egypt8 ,in the ,bible1 chapter xlii of the book of ,genesis1 we are told that ,pharaoh arrayed ,joseph in vestures of fine linen4 ,do you know of any other ,bible references which tell of the use of linen in ancient times8 ,have you ever heard of the ,swiss lake dwellers8 ,perhaps your teacher will tell you about them1 or you can look it up in the encyclopedia4 ,they too used linen long ago1 for pieces have been found and are in the museums in ,switzerland4 ,next lesson we shall make a large chart for the schoolroom1 which will tell the story of flax4 ,you may bring anything which you think will help to illustrate that story4 ,we shall also mount on the chart the most common linen materials which we use in our homes4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,examine a flax fiber with a microscope or a magnifying glass4 ,what do you see8 #b4 ,look up references which prove the age of flax culture4 #c4 ,perhaps some one near your school has been in the linen business in ,ireland4 ,perhaps he will come to the school and tell the boys and girls about it4 ,try to find some one4 ,,lesson #f ,,common ,,linen ,,materials ,,are ,,identified ,can we learn to identify at least eight of the common linen materials8 ,to-day we shall study about the different linen materials1 and then see what we have to mount on our school chart4 ,if you prefer1 you may make a book of linen materials like the cotton and silk4 ,let us divide the pieces which have been brought to school into two piles3 the thin1 and the thicker ones4 ,we have more of the thick ones4 ,yes1 we all know the heavy coarse linen is called ,russian crash4 ,we used it for our porch cushions or covers4 ,it comes from #ah to #cf inches in width and costs from #ae cents a yard up to #ge cents sometimes4 ,we know it is used for dresses1 and sometimes for toweling and upholstery uses4 ,it is unbleached in color4 ,this wide sample is linen sheeting4 ,our great-grandmothers always had linen sheets of flax which they grew1 spun1 and wove1 because long ago cotton was not grown4 ,some of the ,pleasant ,valley girls saw these sheets which ,grandmother ,allen made4 ,sheeting comes in several widths1 and costs about #a per yard up4 ,cotton sheeting is cheaper4 ,the one thin one is handkerchief linen4 ,it costs from #fj cents to #b4jj per yard4 ,what kind of a weave is it8 ,what is it used for8 ,the other thin piece is called batiste4 ,it1 too1 is used for waists and dress linens1 and it is fine and sheer4 ,it can be used for handkerchiefs too4 ,it costs about #a4jj per yard up1 according to the fineness1 and is #a yard or more wide4 ,batiste is made of cotton1 also1 and is then cheaper4 ,the weave of this piece is different4 ,you have a cotton sample of the same weave4 ,yes1 it is called bird's-eye pattern4 ,it is used for toweling and costs about #cj cents per yard1 #bd inches wide4 ,here is another piece used also for toweling4 ,you all know its name4 ,huckaback is correct4 ,we have also cotton huckaback1 and some huckaback made of half linen and half cotton4 ,it is woven in a pattern which absorbs easily4 ,the filling thread shows more on the surface than the warp threads4 ,it is woven #ah inches and wider1 and costs #ae cents up4 ,every one knows this one4 ,our tablecloths and napkins are of damask4 ,it is a lovely material made in beautiful patterns4 ,sometimes it is all linen and sometimes a mixture4 ,there is also cotton damask for table napkins and cloths4 ,it is much cheaper4 ,the cloths are woven #a yard wide or wider1 and for damask towels from #af to #cf inches4 ,one can spend a great deal for beautiful damask towels and napkins4 ,this plain coarse linen is called butchers' linen1 because it wears very well and butchers sometimes have their aprons made of it4 ,it is used1 too1 for dress skirts1 and is very satisfactory4 ,it is woven from #bg to #dd inches in width and costs from #dj cents to #a4ej per yard4 ,the heavy stiff piece is a linen canvas and is used by tailors for the interlining of cuffs and collars of coats4 ,it costs #be cents per yard and is #bg to #cf inches wide4 ,suppose our chart is #bd #bj inches4 ,perhaps a cardboard or cover of an old box will do if your teacher has nothing else4 ,put two holes near the top in the middle of the #bj inches side and run a cord through for hanging4 ,at one edge down one side place the common linen materials with their names and uses1 etc4 ,let us see what the girls have brought4 ,here is a bottle of linseed oil4 ,yes1 and some flax seeds4 ,jane has brought a linen collar4 ,here is a small china doll wrapped as a mummy4 ,marjorie's grandmother has sent some flax which she grew and prepared herself1 and a piece of an old hand-woven towel which she made when a girl4 ,and here is some hand-spun flax6 ,notice how rough it looks4 ,we have1 also1 some cord and twine and some linen thread4 ,do you know that ,paterson1 ,new ,jersey1 where ,marjorie's ,cousin ,ann works in the silk mill1 is also a great center for linen thread manufacture8 ,thread is made by twisting fine yarns together4 ,the twisting makes them strong4 ,they are then dyed or bleached white4 ,much of our linen thread is unbleached in color4 ,why8 ,suppose we draw a picture of the flax stalk and flower on our chart and fasten some of the school-grown flax to it4 ,all the other things can be arranged and fastened too1 by punching holes in the cardboard and tying them on with cord4 ,what an interesting story it makes4 ,perhaps the children of the lower classes would like to hear the story told by one of the seventh grade girls some morning4 ,next lesson you may bring any table linen or towels which are stained2 and we shall learn how to remove the stains4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,draw a picture of the flax plant1 and color the flowers with your crayons4 #b4 ,prepare the chart telling the story of flax4 #c4 ,look up the story of how linen thread is prepared4 #d4 ,see how many linen materials you can find at home4 ,,lesson #g ,,removing ,,common ,,stains ,,from ,,table ,,linen ,some of the common stains one finds on table linen are coffee1 tea1 fruit1 rust1 or grass stains4 ,do you know how to remove them8 ,when should stains be removed8 ,a good housekeeper always looks over the clothing and household linens before putting them to soak4 ,mrs4 ,allen says she usually does this on ,monday4 ,do you know why8 ,she spends this day getting ready for wash day4 ,she bakes and prepares certain foods for her family for two days2 and so the work is easier on ,tuesday and ,wednesday1 when she washes and irons4 ,fruit1 coffee1 or tea stains on linen should be removed as soon after the stain appears as possible4 ,if this is not done1 then certainly the stains must be removed before putting the linen into the tub4 ,white clothes are boiled4 ,what will this do to the stains if they are not removed8 ,how can stains be removed8 ,let us try to remove these spots one at a time4 ,i think we have six or seven different kinds on the articles which have been brought to school to-day4 ,your teacher will show you how to follow the directions4 ,coffee and tea stains are the most common on table linen4 ,to remove1 wash in lukewarm water1 and then dip in a solution of washing soda1 and rinse very carefully until all soda is removed4 7,washing soda solution is made of one pound of washing soda to one gallon of water4 ,this can be kept in glass jars and used when occasion demands47 ,tea stains are easily removed by brushing the spot with glycerine and then washing carefully in warm water to remove the grease4 ,rubbing the spot with the bowl of a spoon is a good way to put on the glycerine4 ,fruit stains are also common4 ,an easy way to remove them is to stretch the fabric1 if it is white1 over a bowl and pour boiling water from a height1 through the spot4 ,on white wool or silk1 lukewarm water is sometimes all that is necessary2 or lukewarm water and a little borax4 ,if the fruit stains are on colored garments1 they are difficult to remove on account of removing the color also4 ,if the article is of much value1 consult a professional dyer if possible4 ,it is wise to experiment on the material on another part of the garment1 as the inside of a hem or facing4 ,make a similar spot and try to remove with different methods4 ,often one can discover a way1 through experimenting4 ,rust stains often appear on table linen or white clothing4 ,to remove1 wet the spot and apply a few drops of oxalic acid or salts of lemon or cream of tartar solution1 and wash thoroughly4 ,on colored or wool goods of good quality1 one must decide whether one prefers the stain or the color removed4 ,water and lemon juice will generally remove the spot1 but may take the color too4 ,care is necessary for colors4 ,grass stains are also common4 ,if the stains are fresh1 cold water will usually remove them4 ,when on white goods or material which cannot be washed1 alcohol may be used4 ,when color will stand it1 dyed fabrics which are grass-stained can be washed with water and a little ammonia1 followed by warm soap solution and careful rinsing4 ,here is a garment which has both ink and blood stains on it4 ,marjorie must have cut her finger4 ,blood stains when fresh are easily removed with lukewarm1 not hot water1 and a little ammonia4 ,when on colored silk1 wash carefully with lukewarm water only4 ,the ink stains are more difficult1 because the composition of inks varies4 ,wash at once in cold water2 this often removes some spots4 ,sour milk or several rinsings in sweet milk may cause the spot to disappear4 ,then wash in warm water and soap to remove the grease4 ,if this does not remove it1 try a paste made of starch1 salt1 and lemon juice except for colors4 ,if this will not1 try ,javelle water4 ,this can be obtained at a drug store4 ,wash the spot in the ,javelle water1 but rinse very quickly and carefully4 ,repeat until the spot disappears4 ,these directions are for white materials only4 ,how many would like to try to remove some spots at home1 before next lesson8 ,you may report your successes or failures1 and we shall try to learn the reasons for them4 ,next lesson we shall learn to wash and iron this table linen4 ,it will be well to keep it at school until next lesson4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,how many spots have you been able to remove8 ,tell of your successes or failures4 #b4 ,see if mother or grandmother has any better recipes than you have learned for spots4 ,,lesson #h ,,learning ,,to ,,wash ,,and ,,iron ,,table ,,linen ,,or ,,bed ,,linen ,we have studied many things about cleanliness1 and we all know how much cleanliness of clothing and household linen adds to our comfort4 ,we have learned that sometimes we can wear our underclothes without ironing and that towels can be washed and dried and will smell sweet and clean even if not ironed4 ,table linen1 though1 must be washed and boiled and ironed to look well4 ,our lesson to-day is about how to do this4 ,the linen1 as well as the cotton1 are1 as you know1 vegetable fibers4 ,they are strong and able to resist heat and the friction from rubbing4 ,they have resistance for chemicals also4 ,so cotton and linen may be boiled1 starched1 and ironed with hot irons because the fibers are strong4 ,they may also be treated with acids of a dilute nature when necessary to remove spots1 as we have learned4 ,for the usual grease spots on the family tablecloths1 soak the cloth in soda water to remove grease 7one cup of soda--the dissolved solution--to a pail of water1 see page #ahf74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aaj4--,mrs4 ,stark washing out of doors on a warm day4 ,this is the old way4 ,she has just bought a washing machine4 ,the processes for washing and ironing4 ,if the stains have been removed from the table linen1 it can then be soaked4 ,soaking helps to loosen the dirt when soap is added before the soaking4 ,it is then unnecessary to rub them as much1 and so materials are saved from wear4 ,these are the processes for washing and ironing3 soaking1 washing1 rinsing1 boiling1 rinsing1 bluing1 starching1 hanging1 drying1 sprinkling1 pulling1 folding1 ironing4 #a4 ,soaking4 ,soak the table or bed linens about #a-;hours in cold or lukewarm water4 ,soap is really not necessary as the linen is not very dirty4 ,all stains should have been previously removed4 #b4 ,washing4 ,wash with soap on both sides1 rubbing on clothes board or in washing machine4 ,use hot water4 #c4 ,rinsing4 ,rinse and soap again to be placed in the boiler4 ,the dirt is carried away by this rinsing4 #d4 ,boiling4 ,put the soaped articles in clear cold water4 ,boil briskly for five minutes4 ,add enough soap to keep a suds while boiling2 save small pieces for this purpose4 ,stir clothes and press with a stick4 ,remove from boiler1 after boiling actively for five minutes4 ,put in clean hot water1 then in cold4 ,rinse once or twice again thoroughly before bluing4 #e4 ,bluing4 ,make the blue water from some good blue4 ,do not make it too deep4 ,test on a small doily4 ,stir the blue before each article is dipped1 so it may not appear streaked on the clothes4 ,if articles are very yellow it may be necessary to let them stand in the blue for a little while4 ,if not yellow1 dip two or three times4 ,the next process is starching2 but it is not as a rule necessary to starch napkins1 tablecloths1 or bed linens4 #f4 ,hanging4 ,hang very straight after stretching4 ,do not pin at corners4 ,hang of the napkin or tablecloth over the line4 #g4 ,sprinkling4 ,table linen must be sprinkled evenly4 ,sometimes it can be taken from the line when half dry1 and the process of sprinkling omitted4 #h4 ,ironing4 ,linen should be ironed damp and until dry4 ,this makes the pattern stand out and gives a shine and gloss to the linen4 ,this takes the place of starch4 #i4 ,folding4 ,iron napkins partly dry on wrong side2 then turn to right side1 and iron dry4 ,fold edges evenly4 ,in the lengthwise fold do not fold quite to end1 as in the final fold the napkin1 handkerchief1 tablecloth1 or sheets will appear uneven at the edges4 ,fold the tablecloth1 or napkins with selvedges together4 ,tablecloths may be folded with three1 or four1 long creases4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,try to wash and iron the napkins for mother4 #b4 ,try to wash and iron some towels or pillowcases4 ,is the process different8 #c4 ,why is it unnecessary to iron some clothes if one is very busy4 ,can you give a good reason why it is hygienic not to iron them4 ,,lesson #i ,,the ,,story ,,of ,,the ,,manufacture ,,of ,,linen ,,yarn ,,into ,,cloth ,to-day we are going to study again about our linen tablecloths and napkins1 and learn how the flax fiber is made into cloth after it has been cleaned at the scutching mill4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aaa4--,the flax wheel4 ,combing and spinning flax4 ,uncle ,john divided his story in two parts1 and told the ,pleasant ,valley ,girls' ,league about the manufacture of flax as well as about its growth4 ,the scutched flax is delivered to the manufacturer4 ,he must first spin the flax into yarn before it can be woven into cloth4 ,the flax fibers measure from #bj to #ce inches in length4 ,how are they to be made into one continuous piece for spinning8 ,the pictures 7,figs4 #aab and #aac7 will give a very good idea4 ,long ago grandmother or great-grandmother spun the yarn for the linen sheets on the flax wheel4 ,marjorie's grandmother sent her old flax wheel to school for the girls to see4 ,the flax is here on the distaff4 ,if you haven't a wheel at your school1 look at the picture 7,fig4 #aaa74 ,the woman is holding the flax fibers which come from the distaff2 and1 as her foot turns the wheel and the flax in her fingers is fed to the spindle1 it is twisted4 ,spinning of flax is a very old invention4 ,it was once done with just a spindle like the woman has in the picture on page #ga 7,fig4 #dd74 ,this is the secret of how flax spinning is done to-day4 ,the flax is opened at the mill and graded according to color and quality4 ,it is then combed4 ,this process is called hackling 7,fig4 #aab74 ,it is sometimes done by hand1 and the worker draws the flax over the iron teeth of a comb4 ,the straightened fibers are left and are called line2 and the combed-out fibers are called tow4 ,this first combing process is sometimes called roughing instead of hackling4 ,the line is then combed again in a big machine which removes any loose tow4 ,tow is often put in a carding machine and made into yarn for coarser purposes2 but the long straight line is used for the better materials4 ,the line1 after it is hackled1 is placed on a spread board2 and the process is called spreading4 ,you can see in the picture 7,fig4 #aac7 that the bundles of flax yarn are spread and overlapped as they enter the machine4 ,now you know how the yarn begins to be made of continuous length4 ,the flax comes from this machine in a rope and is something like the cotton rope or roving as it leaves the carding machine2 but flax is brown and stiff1 not so soft as cotton4 ,can you find in the picture 7,fig4 #aac7 the cans ready to receive the flax rovings as they come from the spreading machine8 ,they are at the back of the machine4 ,the rovings are then ready to be wound on spools and to be twisted to make them strong4 ,this is done in the same way as the cotton4 ,the spools are put in at the top of the machine2 they hold the rovings4 ,the rovings pass over rollers which draw out and twist and wind the yarn on the spools below4 ,this is called spinning4 7,fig4 #df shows the cotton spinning machines47 ,flax spinning is somewhat like this4 ,perhaps some day you may be able to visit a flax mill and see the spinning frames1 as the machines are called1 at work4 ,uncle ,john says that yarns are made of coarse or of very fine grade1 according to the fineness of cloth desired4 ,linen thread is made by twisting together two or three of the linen yarns4 ,look at the linen thread and see if you can discover two or three4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,york ,st4 ,mills1 ,belfast4 ,,fig4 #aab4--;,flax hackling done by machine4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,york ,st4 ,mills1 ,belfast4 ,,fig4 #aac4--,spreading flax to make it a continuous line4 ,weaving linen4 ,after the threads of flax have been spun1 they are wound on spools2 and the spools are put in the big spool holder or skarn in order to prepare the roll of warp threads for the loom4 ,do you remember how the cotton warp was prepared and how the weaving was done8 ,uncle ,john says that in ,scotland to-day much of the very fine linen is woven by hand2 but we know that linen weaving by machinery has been perfected there and that very beautiful materials are produced on the modern looms with the ,jacquard harness as it is called1 to produce the wonderful designs4 ,fine table damask is as beautiful as fine silk4 ,the ,french1 perhaps1 make the most beautiful designs for table linen1 and the ,scotch and ,irish come next4 7,see page #abd for ,jacquard loom47 ,bleaching linen cloth4 ,uncle ,john says there are many things to be done to the linen cloth after it is woven4 ,if we were to go to ,ireland1 we might ride for miles and see the woven linen cloth spread on the grass in great lengths4 ,this is called crofting or grass bleaching4 ,do you remember how we said grandmother used to bleach her linen8 ,did she use a chemical8 ,what did the sour milk which she used do to her linen8 ,what did the oxygen do8 ,chemicals are sometimes used to-day in the early stages before the linen is spread on the grass4 ,uncle ,john says that from #bj-be per cent1 or about 1 of the weight of the linen is lost in bleaching4 ,linen is sometimes bleached in the thread1 but more often after it is woven4 ,finishing linen cloth for shipping4 ,after linen cloth has been bleached1 ,uncle ,john says it is ready to be finished for shipping to the merchants4 ,it is washed by passing the cloth through a machine called a rub-board4 ,then it is dried and passed through a beetling machine4 ,this makes the fibers stand out4 ,then it is pressed between rollers to give it a smooth surface4 ,cotton is sometimes finished by means of these processes to look like linen and be sold for linen4 ,when this cotton material is washed1 the finishing wears off and it does not look like linen4 ,is such material cheaper or more expensive8 ,is it honest to sell cotton for linen1 and to cheat the buyer8 ,it is all right if the goods are labeled4 ,next lesson we shall talk about the buying of household linens4 ,one must know many things in order to purchase wisely4 ,do you see how a knowledge of how things are made will help you1 too8 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,write a story of two hundred words telling how flax is made into cloth4 #b4 ,have an exhibit of articles brought from home1 showing different patterns of linen cloth4 #c4 ,perhaps there may be a cord factory near for you to visit4 ,tow is sometimes used in making twine4 ,study how cord is made4 ,,lesson #aj ,a ,,talk ,,about ,,buying ,,linens ,have you ever gone shopping with mother8 ,there are some important things to remember when buying table linen or other household materials4 ,what are they8 ,marjorie goes with her mother once a year to buy household linens4 ,this is usually in ,january1 when the big shop in town has a sale4 ,last ,january1 when ,marjorie's mother was ill1 they had to order by mail4 ,the catalogue from the shop described fully1 and ,mrs4 ,allen knew exactly what to ask for2 so they managed without going to town4 ,this can be done if one knows how and if the store is a reliable one4 ,these are some of the things ,mrs4 ,allen is teaching ,marjorie4 ,some day she will wish to buy for her own home2 or1 if her mother is ill again1 she can go alone4 ,it is always more satisfactory to see what one is buying4 ,here are some of the points to be noticed in buying3 #a4 ,the first important thing to remember is to buy only what one needs4 ,know the shops one patronizes1 if possible1 and go or send to only reliable firms4 ,the reliable places are the cheapest in the end4 ,one learns1 too1 that some things are better at one shop and some at another4 ,reliable stores often have sales1 but as a rule bargains are not cheap4 ,remember nothing is ever given away4 #b4 ,it is wise and cheaper to purchase some new household linen once each year than to wait and have it all wear out at once4 #c4 ,cost is a good guide4 ,linen is expensive4 ,if too cheap1 beware4 #d4 ,linen is sometimes cheapened or adulterated with cotton4 ,if the store keeper sells it for union1 it is honest2 if he calls it linen1 and you pay linen price1 it is dishonest4 ,ravel and untwist the ends of the warp and filling thread4 ,cotton will be fuzzy1 linen should be long and lustrous4 ,round threads of linen are best4 ,the linen threads appear pointed at the ends when separated4 ,the all linens made from the tow 7you have learned what that is7 are cheaper than those made from the line4 ,why8 ,they will not last quite so well4 ,wet the linen4 ,water spreads more rapidly on linen than on cotton4 ,an old-fashioned test was to moisten with the finger4 ,if you have a sample of linen at home for testing1 use a drop of olive oil4 ,the oil makes the linen fibers more translucent than the cotton4 ,why8 #e4 ,another way to know4 ,linen feels colder than cotton2 also it feels heavier when crushed in the hand4 #f4 ,notice the finish4 ,is it full of starch which can be picked off8 ,if so1 after the washing you will have a loosely woven material without starch4 ,it is better to buy a softer linen than one filled stiff with starch which will crack4 #g4 ,damask by the yard is slightly cheaper than by the cloth4 ,one dollar a yard is a fair price4 ,table cloths from #b to #c yards are a good size for a family of six4 ,a cloth wears about as long as #a or #b dozen napkins4 ,the price of one dozen napkins about equals the cost of a cloth4 ,napkins come in three sizes3 1 #ag-bb inches2 1 #bc-bg inches2 1 #bi-ca inches4 #h4 ,scotch1 ,french1 and ,irish linens are the best for quality1 beauty1 and variety of patterns4 ,german damask is good2 but ,german patterns are perhaps the least attractive4 ,unbleached linen will wear much longer1 is less expensive1 and is bought by many housewives and bleached as used4 #i4 ,for family towels huckaback is the most serviceable1 although damask is used a great deal4 ,linen towels vary in price from #c4jj a dozen up1 according to size and quality4 ,dish towels of linen crash are very serviceable4 #aj4 ,the microscope is the only sure test for distinguishing cotton and linen fibers4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,ask mother if she knows any other methods of judging good linen4 #b4 ,when you go to town1 price some tablecloths and napkins4 ,how much will a good cloth and napkins cost8 ,,review ,,problems ,i4 ,plan a systematic way of looking over your clothing and keeping it in repair4 ,,ii4 ,how do you store your winter clothing for protection during summer8 ,your summer clothes during winter8 ,,iii4 ,how does your knowledge of buying linens help you in going shopping with mother8 ,illustration ,,chapter ,v ,,the ,,pleasant ,,valley ,,girls ,,learn ,,to ,,make ,,more ,,garments ,would you like to learn to make some useful garments8 ,perhaps1 then1 you can help with the family sewing and make some useful garments for your sister or mother4 ,some day you may wish to be a seamstress or a dressmaker and to earn money in that way4 ,barbara ,oakes says she expects to do so4 ,now is the time to begin to learn how1 and later perhaps you may go to a dressmaking school4 ,barbara ,oakes and some of the ,league girls have a class which meets once a week for instruction in gymnastics and fancy dancing4 ,in the spring or early summer they expect to give a dance outdoors4 ,a pageant will be prepared by some of the members of the ,mothers' ,club2 and the dance is part of that pageant4 ,the pageant will picture the history of ,pleasant ,valley4 ,the ,mothers' ,club is planning to have all the people who will1 take part4 ,have you ever seen a pageant8 ,it is a pleasant way to learn history and to celebrate an interesting local event4 ,pageants have been held in many parts of the eastern and western states2 and in ,england there have been many pageants4 ,perhaps you can plan a pageant for your town4 ,while the girls are practicing their dancing and gymnastics1 bloomers will be very useful1 and the girls have decided to learn to make them4 ,would you like to learn how8 ,the bloomers will be useful for school gymnastics1 too4 ,you can also make a middy blouse and a skirt to wear with them1 so as to have the whole outfit4 ,,lesson #a ,,the ,,pattern ,,of ,,the ,,bloomers ,let us study the pattern which your teacher has brought to school4 ,you have learned to read patterns4 ,you must also calculate how much material to order1 and what kind4 ,let us open the pattern and study its parts4 ,yes1 the long narrow strips are for the belt2 some are for the placket facings4 ,notice if the dots indicate where these are to be placed3 on a fold of material or lengthwise of the cloth4 ,there is one other piece4 ,it is the leg2 so two must be cut4 ,is it possible to cut two at the same time8 ,how1 then1 should the material be folded8 ,notice the perforations4 ,they will help us to know which part of the pattern is to be placed on the warp of the cloth4 ,how wide is the width of the pattern at the widest part8 ,if it is #cd inches1 then it will be easy to calculate how many lengths to buy of cloth #cf inches wide4 ,measure the length of the pattern and see if it is long enough for you to allow for fullness at the knee so that there is some to blouse over4 ,if not1 how will you add to the pattern8 ,this extra length must be allowed in ordering the material4 ,can you tell how much cloth to order8 ,see if you can calculate4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aad4--,the bloomers and middy blouse4 ,what kind of material will you use8 ,some of the ,pleasant ,valley girls wish wool material because it will be warmer for winter wear4 ,dark blue or black serge is very durable1 is washable also1 and will shed the dust4 ,here are some samples4 ,sateen is also a durable cotton material1 but it is not so warm4 ,it is easier for girls to handle in making than wool4 ,bloomers can also be made from gingham1 percale1 galatea1 or other cotton cloth4 ,which will you choose8 ,shall we not write for some samples of these different materials8 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls wrote and received them in a few days4 ,perhaps you too are learning how to order by mail when you are too far away from town to go shopping4 ,try to make all the calculations to-day and to learn all about the pattern4 ,pin the pieces of the pattern together2 also try to hold them up to your figure or the girl next to you4 ,it helps one to learn where the parts lie on the body and to locate where the seams will fall4 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls worked in pairs and helped each other with the cutting1 fitting1 and planning4 ,this is a good way when each girl does her part4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,open the pattern for the bloomers4 ,notice the parts1 also the perforations and directions4 #b4 ,calculate how much cloth will be necessary for a pair of bloomers for yourself4 #c4 ,bring samples of materials suitable for bloomers4 ,,lesson #b ,,the ,,story ,,of ,,where ,,wool ,,is ,,grown ,while you are waiting for the samples of wool serges1 galatea1 and sateen1 let us study about wool4 ,wool is the most important textile fiber4 ,all girls should know about it1 whether you will use wool or cotton for your bloomers4 ,in the picture 7,fig4 #aae7 you will see a very peaceful scene4 ,the sheep are grazing and storing up food and energy to be converted into food for us to eat and clothing for us to wear4 ,mr4 ,allen has over a hundred sheep on his farm4 ,how grateful we should be to the patient sheep4 ,this animal fiber called wool is a variety of hair1 and varies in fineness4 ,the coarser varieties are called hair4 ,hair is obtained from the angora goat1 the camel1 and alpaca4 ,perhaps your teacher has a microscope4 ,look at the fibers under the glass4 ,you can see how hair differs from wool4 ,there are tiny serrations on the wool surface which look like the scales of a pine cone1 lapping one over the other4 ,this is a wonderful thing to see2 for it is on account of these tiny serrations which close up when in hot water that one must be so careful about laundering woolens4 ,wool looks wavy in length4 ,it is fine and has a luster2 while hair has a smooth surface and lies straight4 ,illustration3 ,rosa ,bonheur4 ,,fig4 #aae4--,these peaceful looking sheep provide our wool clothing4 ,have you ever seen sheep sheared of their wool8 ,perhaps it is done on your farm4 ,sheep are usually sheared only once a year1 in ,april or ,may4 ,if there are only a few sheep1 it is easy to use the hand shears like those in the picture 7,fig4 #aag72 but where there are many sheep1 the machine clippers must be used4 ,these clipping machines can be run by hand or other power4 ,they shear close and save wool4 ,notice the machine which the man in the picture 7,fig4 #aah7 is using2 it is just like the one ,mr4 ,allen uses4 ,frank or ,john sometimes helps4 ,the coating of wool from one sheep is called a fleece4 ,on the large sheep ranches of the ,west the fleeces are tied into bundles1 and these bundles are put in sacks holding about #djj pounds to be shipped to certain wool-purchasing centers where the buyers examine the wool and buy in quantities4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aaf4--,wool fibers magnified4 ,what do you know about the sheep industry8 ,our sheep industry is very important4 ,the western states1 ,montana1 ,idaho1 ,wyoming1 and ,oregon1 support about #ch million sheep4 ,that is a large family to shear and feed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aag4--,the hand shears4 ,other countries grow sheep for clothing wools1 too4 ,australia1 ,england1 ,south ,africa1 ,south ,america1 ,spain1 and ,germany all give much attention to sheep raising4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,chicago ,flexible ,shaft ,co4 ,,fig4 #aah4--,sheep shearing by machinery4 ,this industry is very old4 ,we read in the ,bible that wool was used long ago and that ,king ,david of ,israel wrote psalms as he tended his sheep on the hillside4 ,abel1 the brother of ,cain1 was a keeper of sheep4 ,can you find these stories in the ,bible8 ,writers of many ages tell about wool--,pliny1 ,homer1 and ,virgil4 ,alexander too1 when he journeyed to ,india in early days1 saw beautiful woolen shawls being made4 ,some sheep give a better quality of wool than others4 ,the ,merino wool is the very finest4 ,the camel furnishes a beautiful soft fiber4 ,then1 there is the angora goat of ,asia ,minor1 which provides us with mohair4 ,this is a lovely soft fiber resembling silk4 ,can you find this country on your map8 ,look for ,peru and for ,chili4 ,the sheep there furnish the alpaca and llama wools4 ,some wool fibers are long1 and some are quite short4 ,the length of fiber1 or staple as it is called1 varies4 ,an average length is #g or #h inches4 ,how does this compare with the silk or linen fiber8 ,is it as long as cotton8 ,the fibers also vary in strength and luster1 fineness1 softness1 and elasticity4 ,what do these words mean8 ,can you find them in your dictionary8 ,the tiny serrations on the wool fiber cannot be seen with the naked eye4 ,they are1 however1 very important2 for it is this characteristic of wool which makes it felt1 and1 because these tiny serrations interlock1 it is possible to make the fine texture of broadcloth and other fine wool materials4 ,we shall study how later4 ,do you think we wish the tiny serrations to interlock when we wash woolen articles8 ,if they do1 what will happen to the garment8 ,do you know how this can be prevented8 ,if you have sheep on your farm or near1 will you bring some of the wool to school4 ,it is dirty4 ,perhaps you can wash it at school1 and see how soft and fine and lustrous it is4 ,you may also be able to dye some4 ,the center of the wool fiber is rather porous1 and this enables the fiber to take up dye easily4 ,the wool from some sheep farms varies on account of the differences in climate1 soil1 and breed of sheep4 ,the sheep of southern ,england produce short and fine wool2 while in the north1 where it is colder1 the wool is stronger and coarser4 ,wools from ,saxony and ,silesia are very fine4 ,the ,english and ,australian wools are of several qualities4 ,the long wools come from ,lincoln and ,leicestershire1 and the shorter from ,suffolk and ,shropshire4 ,can you find these places on your map of ,england8 ,the long coarse wools are used for carpets and for knitting1 because they are so strong4 ,the short wools used for clothing are about #c to #d inches in length4 ,the long wools1 about #aj inches in length1 are called combing wools and are used for materials which are loosely woven like serges1 homespuns1 and others4 ,next lesson we shall study our samples of woolen materials4 ,bring all the scraps of different kinds which you can contribute4 ,put them in the surprise box4 ,we shall learn the names of the most common ones4 ,will you make a sample book for these too8 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,find on the map the principal countries producing wool4 #b4 ,if your teacher has a microscope1 compare wool and hair4 ,how do they differ8 #c4 ,why do woolen garments shrink when washed in hot water8 #d4 ,why is wool the most important fiber of commerce8 #e4 ,tell some of the uses of long coarse wools2 of the finer wools4 ,,lesson #c ,,some ,,of ,,the ,,most ,,common ,,materials ,,made ,,from ,,wool ,there are many materials made from wool4 ,let us learn to-day about those which are used most commonly4 ,perhaps some one in the class will sort the pieces in the surprise box4 ,mollie ,stark sorted those at ,pleasant ,valley ,school4 ,do not sort according to color1 but place them in three piles4 ,we have the thick1 close materials1 which are heavy and firm4 ,then we have the thin1 sheer ones4 ,in the third pile1 place the medium weight ones which look strong and are wiry but not so closely woven and firm as those in the first pile4 ,shall we learn about some of each kind8 ,let us see what we have in the third pile of wiry1 more loosely woven materials4 ,first we have the serges4 ,here are several pieces4 ,some are fine with the twilled weave1 and others are twilled but the weave is coarser4 ,they are very serviceable and are suitable for bloomers1 or for dress fabrics4 ,here is a sample of a plaid serge4 ,marjorie ,allen had such a dress last winter4 ,it is possible to buy plain colors too4 ,serges are woven quite wide1 from #db to #ed inches1 and cost from #ge cents to #c per yard4 ,cheviots are very similar to serges in price and width1 but are somewhat heavier in appearance4 ,the surface of some is rather rougher than serge1 although there are smooth cheviots too4 ,have some samples of serges been sent from the store8 ,you must examine these1 too1 to see if you will select one for your bloomers4 ,this coarse one in the same pile is a homespun1 and this is a tweed4 ,they are both rough1 wiry1 loosely woven1 and made of rather coarse yarn4 ,they are rather open in texture and were both in olden times spun and woven by hand1 but are now made by machinery4 ,tweed gets its name from a place in ,scotland4 ,these materials are very serviceable1 especially for rough wear for suitings1 coats1 or dress goods4 ,the color or pattern is not always clearly defined1 because the yarn of which it is woven is mixed in color4 ,homespuns are somewhat cheaper than tweeds4 ,they cost from #a to #c per yard1 and are woven from #db to #ej inches wide4 ,tweeds are a little wider1 #eb to #ed inches1 and cost from #b to #d per yard4 ,there are four samples in this pile1 not quite so heavy4 ,they are cashmere1 challie1 albatross1 and henrietta4 ,have you ever heard these names before8 ,they are all common wool materials4 ,they are often used for girls' school dresses1 for wrappers1 and for baby wear4 ,they are all softer than serges4 ,cashmere and henrietta resemble each other4 ,they both have a twilled weave4 ,henrietta was originally woven with a silk warp4 ,one can buy silk warp henrietta to-day4 ,grandmother ,stark has one4 ,is there a sample in your box8 ,cashmere is also soft1 and the finer qualities are made from hair of the cashmere goat4 ,cashmere is woven #cf to #de inches in width and can be bought for from #ge cents to #a4be per yard4 ,henrietta is about the same width and price1 except when it has silk warp4 ,then it is more expensive4 ,challie and albatross are about the same weight4 ,i am sure you have all had a pretty challie dress sometime4 ,challies are figured2--sometimes the pattern is woven in and sometimes printed4 ,it is made sometimes of a mixture of cotton and wool1 or silk and wool2 but now challies can be bought in all cotton too as well as in all wool4 ,they come about #cj inches wide and cost from #ej to #ge cents per yard4 ,albatross is also soft and a fancy weave4 ,it too is used for dress goods and costs about the same as challie1 #ej cents to #a per yard4 ,it is woven from #ch to #de inches in width4 ,let us now examine some of the heavy ones in the first pile4 ,yes1 every one knows the name of the heavy fine piece4 ,it is broadcloth and is used for coats and dress goods4 ,there are also some lighter weights of broadcloth with a smooth satiny finish4 ,they are called lady's cloth4 ,a very good broadcloth is expensive1 and costs about #e per yard4 ,one can buy it for #a4ej1 but as a rule it is not very satisfactory under #b per yard4 ,broadcloth is closely woven1 smooth1 and soft in finish4 ,it is from #ej to #eh inches in width4 ,has any one at your house a dress or coat made from this8 ,examine it and ask how durable it has been4 ,father's winter overcoat was perhaps made of melton1 or covert cloth4 ,mr4 ,allen had such a coat last year4 ,examine the samples4 ,they are both heavy4 ,melton is about the same width as broadcloth1 #eb inches1 and costs also from #b to #d per yard for a good quality4 ,it is used for suits1 overcoats1 and heavy garments4 ,this is a standard material and is usually dark blue or black4 ,uniforms are often made from it4 ,covert cloth is1 also1 used for overcoats and suits4 ,it is heavy1 but differs from the smooth surface of broadcloth4 ,it is a heavy twilled cloth4 ,felt and flannel are both in this heavy pile1 although there are some lightweight flannels4 ,felt is not woven1 but is compressed1 so that the wool fibers are matted together in a flat mass4 ,it is made #bd to #ej inches in width and costs from #hj cents to #a4ej per yard4 ,i am sure you all know its use4 ,school pennants are made from it1 and so are some table covers4 ,flannel is woven4 ,it is finished with a soft surface which is slightly napped4 ,what does that mean8 ,it is a rather loosely woven fabric1 and is used for many purposes4 ,can you tell some8 ,yes1 petticoats1 baby garments1 waists1 dressing sacques1 shirts for men4 ,it costs from #ej cents to #a per yard4 ,sometimes it is made of a combination of cotton and wool1 instead of all wool4 ,it varies in width from #bg to #cf inches4 ,let us examine some of the thin samples4 ,here is one which it is almost possible to see through4 ,it is called voile and is thin and gauzy1 like veiling4 ,this sample near is called nun's veiling4 ,it1 also1 has an open mesh weave1 and is a common wool material4 ,they are both used for dress goods1 and are made in solid colors4 ,there are also some printed voiles1 but they are usually made of cotton4 ,wool voile costs from #a4be to #b per yard and is woven from #db to #de inches wide2 while nun's veiling is narrower1 #cf inches wide1 and slightly less expensive1 from #ge cents to #a per yard4 ,here are some samples called etamine and grenadine4 ,they are similar to the voiles1 of open mesh weave1 and are used principally for dress goods4 ,bunting is another open mesh weave4 ,we certainly all know its use4 ,look at the flag flying on your schoolhouse4 ,bunting is about #bd inches in width and costs about #ce cents per yard4 ,it is sometimes made from mohair4 ,here are three samples3 one called brilliantine2 and another1 alpaca2 the third1 mohair4 ,the brilliantine and mohair do not feel as soft as the wool serges or cashmeres1 but rather more wiry4 ,they are made from hair of the ,angora goat4 ,they are serviceable1 for they both shed dust and wear well4 ,they are used for dresses or dust coats4 ,the ,alpaca is made from the hair of the llama1 which is bright1 strong1 and elastic4 ,all of these materials are bright and glossy4 ,here are their prices and woven widths3 ,alpaca #cf-de inches #ge cents-#a per yard ,brilliantine #ed inches #ge cents-#b per yard ,mohair #dj-ed inches #ej cents-#b per yard ,there are still some common wool materials we have not mentioned4 ,yes1 blankets4 ,they are made of cotton as well as of wool1 or of a mixture of the two4 ,they cost from #g to #cj per pair if all wool4 ,the combination of cotton and wool can be had for less4 ,carpets are also made from wool yarn4 ,they are woven so that the yarn stands up in loops1 and then these loops are cut as in velvet carpet4 ,in ,brussels and ingrain carpets the loops are not cut4 ,suppose you plan to arrange your sample books with three columns of materials made from wool4 ,you may have four or five columns if you prefer to put the mohairs1 alpacas1 and brilliantines by themselves1 and the blankets and carpets in a separate column4 ,that is the way the ,pleasant ,valley girls arranged theirs4 ,the first will be the heavy materials2 then the medium weight1 and then the thin ones4 ,it is easy to sort and label them now that you know their names1 uses1 and widths4 ,before very long we shall learn the story of how the wool fiber is made into so many different kinds of cloth4 ,it is treated by different processes in manufacture in order to get a smooth close finish or a loose wiry finish4 ,we shall learn how4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,tell the difference between felt and flannel4 #b4 ,name some heavy wool materials2 some of lighter weight4 ,tell where you have seen them used4 #c4 ,look up the story of how carpets are made4 ,perhaps you would like to study about rugs1 too4 #d4 ,how do serges and broadcloths differ in appearance8 #e4 ,plan to collect materials for the five columns of the chart4 ,mount with prices and widths4 ,,lesson #d ,,making ,a ,,pair ,,of ,,bloomers ,let us begin to make the bloomers to-day4 ,first1 we shall lay the pattern4 ,some girls have probably chosen serge for their bloomers1 and some have ordered galatea or sateen4 ,the black or the blue are serviceable4 ,suppose you cut them out to-day4 ,you have studied the pattern which your teacher had4 ,perhaps some girls will find it necessary to add in length or width4 ,your teacher ordered the pattern by size1 according to age4 #ad-year size was chosen4 ,perhaps you must make yours smaller or larger4 ,one pattern can be adapted to the whole class4 ,this you allowed for1 in ordering the amount of cloth4 ,let us place the pattern carefully4 ,be sure that the perforations which indicate lengthwise of the material are placed on the warp4 ,can you cut out both legs at the same time8 ,can you tell where to place the two strips for the bands1 and for the placket facings8 ,which way of the material will the length of band and facings be cut8 ,pin carefully in place and cut with an even motion4 ,it will perhaps be safer to mark the notches with a pencil or with a white thread4 ,girls sometimes forget--cut the notches too large and spoil the cloth4 ,then we shall learn to make a flat felled seam4 ,the two legs are to be sewed up on the right side4 ,be very careful not to make both legs for the same leg4 ,that is the mistake ,marjorie ,allen made4 ,baste the seam -inch wide4 ,then stitch close to the basting4 ,cut off one edge of this seam to within -inch of the stitching1 and lay the other edge of seam flat on the cloth for the fell4 ,turn in the raw edge1 baste1 and stitch flat4 ,this must be done very carefully1 for it is very easy to make a fell which is wrinkled and full instead of flat 7see ,fig4 #aai74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aai4--,the flat fell1 showing the three steps in making3 ,a1 the seam stitched2 ,b1 one edge cut2 ,c1 the turning of the other edge flat1 to be basted and stitched4 ,join the two legs together at the center with the same flat fell4 ,be sure to have the two leg seams come together4 ,this is important4 ,the placket openings lie over the hip4 ,a single strip may be used to bind this opening1 or a regular placket may be made according to your pattern4 ,if a strip is used1 cut it lengthwise of the cloth and one inch longer than twice the length of placket opening4 ,if cut #b-;inches wide1 the finished facing will be one inch in width4 ,place the right side of the strip to the right side of the bloomers4 ,baste -inch seams1 holding strip all around the placket opening2 and then stitch4 ,turn to the wrong side1 turn in -inch and baste1 stitch again4 ,care must be taken at the bottom of the placket opening to make the seam of sufficient width so that it will not pull out4 ,at the bottom of each leg make a hem1 one inch wide finished4 ,stitch1 leaving one inch open4 ,this is the opening for the elastic band4 ,run in the elastic before completing the hem by hand4 ,now we are ready for the bands4 ,there is one for the front and one for the back4 ,if your pattern allows for fullness1 gather to fit of your waist measure4 ,it will be necessary to measure your bands and to allow the two inches for lapping on the back band4 ,the front band is usually shorter than the back4 ,fasten the bloomers so that they lap towards the front4 ,to put on the band1 work in the same way as in putting on the apron or petticoat band1 except the band is turned to the right side for tailor finish on a garment with flat fells4 ,begin by placing the right side of the band to the inside of the front1 and also back of the bloomer portions4 ,baste1 stitch1 turn to the right side4 ,snaps may be used1 or buttons and buttonholes1 for closing4 ,buttonholes can also be placed at the center front and at the back of the bands1 if the bloomers are to be fastened to a waist4 ,how shall the buttonholes be placed in cutting for fastening in this way8 ,do you think it is very difficult to make the bloomers8 ,the girls who use serge can make the placket facings and bands of silk or sateen or some lining material which will be thinner4 ,only the most experienced ,pleasant ,valley girls used the serge--those who had sewed at home4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,what are the important things to remember in cutting out the bloomers8 #b4 ,how does the band of the bloomers differ from that put on the petticoat8 ,,lesson #e ,,the ,,story ,,of ,,how ,,wool ,,is ,,made ,,into ,,cloth ,the ,pleasant ,valley boys and girls learned how wool is made into cloth after it has been sheared from the sheep4 ,would you like to know8 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,m4 ,j4 ,whittall4 ,,fig4 #abj4--,wool sorting4 ,first1 the wool is sorted4 ,wool sometimes travels a long distance before it is delivered to the manufacturer4 ,perhaps the wool in your skirt was grown in ,england or in ,australia1 and was shipped in great sacks to ,new ,york1 and then to the manufacturer4 ,as it is sheared from the sheep1 it is dirty and full of burrs1 grease1 and perspiration4 ,this grease helps to preserve the wool until the manufacturer is ready to use it2 and1 although he buys the wool by weight and pays for dirt and grease1 he prefers to do so because of the preserving qualities of the grease4 ,even of the weight may be dirt and grease4 ,the first thing the manufacturer does is to sort the wool to put the good grades together1 and to separate them from the poor ones4 ,you remember the fleece is the whole coat of the sheep4 ,some parts of this coat are better wool than others2 especially the part from the head and upper part of the back and sides4 ,about seven different grades are separated for different purposes4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,m4 ,j4 ,whittall4 ,,fig4 #aba4--,wool washing or scouring4 ,the second process is washing or scouring4 ,wool cannot be carded and spun until the dirt and grease are removed2 so the next thing the manufacturer does is to remove the grease1 or yolk as it is called1 by washing4 ,this must be done very carefully so as not to break or injure the wool4 ,perhaps you can bring some dirty wool from your farm to school and wash it4 ,soft soap is the most harmless4 ,use a soft water at a low temperature 7#abj ,f474 ,can you tell why it must be low8 ,the washing is done in a series of tanks4 ,you can see them in the picture 7,fig4 #aba74 ,the wet wool is swished back and forth by means of wooden forks which carry the wool forward and beat it out4 ,there are rollers for passing the wool from one tank to another4 ,then the wool must be dried4 ,this is done in a kind of wringing machine called a hydro extractor4 ,then it is beaten into a fluffy mass4 ,then a strange thing happens4 ,oil in wool is necessary in order to help in the spinning and to keep it soft and elastic1 so the manufacturer must return some oil to the wool1 after having washed it all out4 ,olive oil is used4 ,if there is any dirt or any burrs left in the wool1 they must be removed4 ,a machine called a burr picker is used to beat out the dirt4 ,then the wool is blended4 ,do you know that the wool skirt which you are wearing may not be made of all new wool8 ,wool can be used over and over again4 ,old wool rags are pulled apart and mixed with new wool4 ,if this did not happen1 the manufacturer would have to charge much more than you pay for serge or some woolen materials1 as he would have to use all new wool4 ,that is why some wool materials are so expensive4 ,if only new wool were used1 there would not be enough raised in the world to clothe everybody4 ,the wool manufacturer1 therefore1 blends1 or mixes1 the wool before it is sent to the carding machine4 ,in blending he knows just what color1 style1 and grade of material he wishes to produce1 and he grades accordingly4 ,cheapness is one of the principal reasons for blending4 ,sometimes cotton or jute are mixed in1 if the manufacturer wishes to produce a very cheap material which is not all wool4 ,would you like to know the names of some of the all-wool substitutes which are used in reducing the cost of all-wool materials8 ,marjorie ,allen's grandmother told her1 and ,marjorie told the ,league girls4 ,shoddy is one2 it is made from old rags1 like woolen stockings1 flannels1 soft underwear2 materials which have not been felted together4 ,do you know what felted means8 ,the rags are washed1 ground up1 and prepared to mix with the new wool4 ,mungo is another queer name which is given to woolen rags which have been felted1 as broadcloth or men's suitings4 ,flocks is nothing but dust or waste from the clipping machines when cloth is sheared or clipped in finishing4 ,this is used to fill in4 ,so you see nothing is wasted4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,m4 ,j4 ,whittall4 ,,fig4 #abb4--,wool carding4 ,notice the round cylinders4 ,the gauzy web is being delivered into the can in front of the carding machine4 ,the next process after blending is carding4 ,do you remember how cotton is carded8 ,long ago1 when ,marjorie's grandmother was young1 wool was carded by hand4 ,look at the picture on page #gg and see how ,grandmother ,allen holds the cards4 ,she is preparing rolls of wool for the spinning wheel4 ,the manufacturer must prepare the slivers1 or rolls like ropes of wool1 for the spinning frames as they are called to-day4 ,the machine which helps to produce these ropes is called the carding machine4 ,it also helps to clean the dirt from the wool4 ,the picture 7,fig4 #abb7 will show you how the wool carder looks4 ,there is a center cylinder and around it revolve small cylinders4 ,they are all covered with wire teeth which help to pull the wool apart and to cleanse it4 ,if you were to stand before the machine1 you would see a gauzy1 filmy sheet of wool the width of the long rollers as it leaves the machine4 ,the wide gauzy mass is pulled together as it is drawn through a hole at the front of the carder and is delivered or wound up in the can1 just as we learned the cotton was delivered4 ,this wool roving is then wound on spools and is ready for spinning4 ,do you remember the story of how cotton is drawn out and twisted and wound on spools8 ,wool too must be spun and made into yarn1 before yarn can be woven into cloth4 ,the manufacturer makes woolen yarn and also worsted yarn4 ,do you know the difference8 ,we shall study in our next lesson about them4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,ask your grandmother to tell you about sheep raising on the farm1 when she was a girl4 #b4 ,tell why the manufacturer must blend old and new wool4 ,what are the names of some old rags of wool used for this purpose8 #c4 ,tell how carding was done in olden times4 ,how is wool carding done to-day8 ,why is carding an important process in the manufacture of cloth made from wool8 ,,lesson #f ,,some ,,facts ,,to ,,remember ,,in ,,purchasing ,,wool ,,clothing ,why does the manufacturer use woolen yarn in weaving some materials and worsted yarn for others8 ,if one knows this1 it will be a guide in purchasing wool materials4 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls know4 ,the difference between woolen and worsted yarns4 ,before you can answer the question for this lesson1 you must learn the difference between woolen and worsted yarns4 ,worsted yarn is prepared from the sheep giving long wool4 ,it is prepared by processes which comb it until all the short fibers are removed and only the long straight ones are used4 ,this combing prepares the long wool fibers for spinning so that they lie parallel4 ,this makes an expensive yarn because so much is combed away4 ,this fine combed worsted yarn is used for high grade worsted materials1 as some cheviots or fine tweeds1 and for underwear4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,m4 ,j4 ,whittall4 ,,fig4 #abc4--,wool combing for high grade materials4 ,there is much waste4 ,woolen yarn is not combed to remove the short fibers4 ,it is1 instead1 carded a great deal so that the wool fibers are well mixed and the serrations of the tiny fibers arranged so that they will interlock1 when put in water of high temperature1 and the gelatinous scales are opened up4 ,woolen yarn is woven into broadcloths and meltons4 ,after the weaving the cloth is put into vats where the temperature opens up the serrations and the scales interlock1 and make a close1 smooth piece of cloth4 ,this is called fulling4 ,isn't this interesting8 ,do you see why the manufacturer uses worsted instead of woolen yarn for making underwear8 ,if worsted yarn were used for making broadcloth1 there would not be the same close finish4 ,the worsted yarn is combed and the fibers are not in position to interlock as in the woolen yarn 7,fig4 #abd74 ,can you answer the question now why worsted yarn is used sometimes and woolen at others8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abd4--,this shows the difference in the slivers of wool and worsted yarn4 ,a is the woolen yarn1 well mixed2 ,b is the worsted yarn1 well combed4 ,after the yarn has been spun1 it is woven into cloth just as cotton is prepared and woven4 ,woolen yarn is fuzzy2 cloth made from it is woven loosely and then it is put into vats and shrunken or fulled until the cloth is compact1 as broadcloth4 ,worsted yarn when made into cloth is shrunken very little or not at all4 ,it is woven as it will appear4 ,beautiful homespuns and worsted suitings are the result4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,m4 ,j4 ,whittall4 ,,fig4 #abe4--,the spinning of wool into yarn4 ,many fabrics made of wool are of simple weave like the plain homespun1 but complicated patterns are also woven of wool4 ,the yarns are arranged in the loom in the same way as the cotton about which we studied4 ,many beautiful patterns are made in woolen materials1 even the complicated patterns of double cloth weaving like the old-fashioned golf capes1 made of double cloth1 which were worn a few years ago4 ,so you can see that the manufacturer must know whether he is to adulterate his wool cloth with cotton or reduce the cost of production by using mungo1 shoddy1 or flocks4 ,flocks is put in when the cloth is shrunken or fulled in the vats4 ,the short pieces and dust1 or flocks as it is called1 are drawn in as the serrations open and the cloth is shrunken4 ,this is all useful to know1 for it helps one in purchasing materials4 ,most of us cannot afford to buy cloth made of all new wool1 but we should be able to tell whether cloth is made of cotton and wool mixed1 or all wool4 ,we will know by price whether the all wool is new wool or not4 ,no shopkeeper should sell a cotton and wool for all wool4 ,when we have our textiles labeled as foods are now labeled1 we shall be able to tell4 ,what have you learned to-day which will help you in purchasing wool materials8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abf4--,this is the teasel which is used to brush the nap of the cloth in finishing4 ,these small thistles are arranged in rows in the machine rollers through which the cloth passes4 ,woolen and worsted yarns are used also in the manufacture of carpets1 rugs1 hosiery1 blankets1 underwear1 and also for knitting purposes4 ,do you know how to knit8 ,does any one know at your home8 ,it is a useful and pleasant accomplishment4 ,shawls1 afghans1 caps1 and sweaters can all be knitted4 ,miss ,james taught the ,pleasant ,valley girls to knit bright scarfs which they wore for tobogganing the next winter4 ,some girls made them for sale4 ,points about buying woolen garments4 ,here are a few things to think about which ,miss ,travers from the ,state ,college told the ,mothers' ,club of ,pleasant ,valley to remember in buying wool garments or materials4 #a4 ,wool mixed with cotton should not be sold for all wool4 ,it is a cheaper fabric4 ,it wears fairly well1 but is not so warm4 ,pull the fabric apart1 untwist the fibers to see if cotton is present4 #b4 ,garments bought ready-made of cotton and wool do not keep their shape as well as all wool garments4 #c4 ,burning a piece of the fabric will help you to identify the fiber4 ,wool burns slowly1 chars1 and gives off an odor of burned feathers4 ,cotton burns quickly with a flame4 #d4 ,a good wool material can always be used over again4 ,the inexpensive is not cheap unless you wish something which does not look well or wear well but is cheap4 #e4 ,remember that a close twill weave is more durable than a basket weave4 ,think about this in buying2 for the weave of material affects the wearing quality4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,how is yarn which is to be used for underwear treated in manufacture8 ,why8 #b4 ,how does this treatment differ from yarn used in the manufacture of broadcloth8 #c4 ,what are some of the things your mother thinks about when she buys a garment made from wool1 in order to get good value for her money8 ,,lesson #g ,,the ,,clothing ,,budget ,have you ever thought how much your clothing costs father and mother every year8 ,marjorie ,allen and ,barbara ,oakes tried to figure the cost one day4 ,girls must begin to learn how to spend wisely1 for they will very soon have the responsibility of being spenders4 ,if you can make some of your clothing1 you will help to reduce the cost4 ,would you like to learn to make a budget as well as a simple dress skirt to wear over the bloomers8 ,suppose we study to-day about the clothing budget4 ,have you ever tried to calculate how much is spent each year for your clothing8 ,if not1 suppose you try4 ,girls who know how to make some articles of clothing can have more for the same amount of money4 ,suppose you send for the material for your dress skirts4 ,it is wise to learn to make a very simple skirt first4 ,choose a simple pattern4 ,your teacher will help you4 ,what material will you use8 ,perhaps you would like a middy blouse later to wear with the skirt4 ,can you name some suitable cotton materials to use for this purpose8 ,yes1 ,indian head1 galatea1 duck4 ,you have studied about all of these and should have them in your sample books4 ,such a dress will be suitable for school wear4 ,talk with your teacher and calculate how much cloth you must buy for your skirt and middy4 ,while you are waiting for the cloth you have ordered1 let us study how ,marjorie's ,cousin ,ann1 who works at ,paterson1 manages to plan each year for her clothing4 ,she has such good plans4 ,do you know that such a plan is called a budget8 ,would you like to learn to make your clothing budget8 ,ann earns #aj per week and her room and board cost her #f per week1 so she has #d for other expenses4 ,she puts aside #a4ej each week for clothing1 and so has #f per month or about #ge per year4 ,she lives near her work so does not have daily carfare1 and she goes home at the noon hour for a little rest and for lunch4 ,the rest of her money she divides in this way3 ,each week she tries to save #ge cents or #c per month4 ,the rest she uses for church and club expenses1 for gifts1 newspapers1 or occasionally she buys a new necktie or an extra waist2 but usually the #ge supply all her clothing needs4 ,this is how she manages4 ,she plans for more than one year1 usually trying to keep three years in mind4 ,ann also goes to the ,girls' ,club and has learned to make her waists and some simple dresses4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abg4--;,cousin ,ann's division of her money4 ,how much was for clothing8 ,the following is what she bought the first year4 ,remember she had some clothes to begin with before she started to keep her clothing budget4 ,your budget will of course be different from this1 but this will show how ,ann manages with #ge4 ,some things which she needs you may have no use for in your section of the country4 ,try to plan what you would substitute4 ,this will at least be a working basis for you1 and will give you some suggestions for making yours4 ,marjorie ,allen and ,barbara ,oakes have made their clothing budgets4 ,they have #fj per year for clothing4 ,what do you think they omitted from this list8 ,the things marked 99 are made at home4 ,ann's mother helps her2 but ,ann learned to make clothes at her ,sewing ,club4 ,,first ,,year #b union suits 7winter7 #b4jj #d4jj #c union suits 7summer7 4#ej #a4ej #a flannelette nightdress #a4jj #a4jj #a flannelette nightdress left over #b night dresses 4#hj #a4fj 99#c corset covers 4#ej #a4ej #b pairs of corsets #b4jj #d4jj #f pairs of stockings 4#be #a4ej #b pairs of garters 4#be 4#ej shoes3 #a high lace #c4jj #b pairs low shoes #b4ej #h4jj #a pair rubbers 4#ge #a black sateen petticoat #a4jj #a long white petticoat #a4be #b short white petticoats 4#ge #a4ej retrimming last year's best winter hat #a4be summer hat 7new7 #d4jj #a straw hat1 common wear 4#ge #a umbrella #a4jj 99#a wool dress skirt #d4jj 99#c shirt waists3 #b tailored #a4jj 99#a fancy #a4ej #c4ej #a winter coat #ab4jj #a spring coat 7left from last year7 #a pair kid gloves #a4ej #a pair wool gloves 4#ej #a wool dress 7winter1 bought close of season7 #ab4jj #a sweater #c4jj 99#a summer dress #c4jj 99#a white duck dress skirt #a4jj #a party dress 7left over from last year7 ,gloves1 handkerchiefs1 neckties1 collars received for ,christmas4 ------ ,total #ge4fj ,notice that in the second year some articles are left over from the year before4 ,this is because ,ann has foresight4 ,she is a good manager1 and takes care of her clothes too1 and plans ahead4 ,do you8 ,,second ,,year #b union suits 7left from last year1 winter7 #b union suits 7left from last year1 summer7 #a new union suit summer 4#ej #b flannelette nightgowns 7left over7 #b summer nightdresses 7left over7 #a new summer nightdress 4#ge 99#c corset covers 4#ej #a4ej #b pairs of corsets #b4jj #d4jj #f pairs of stockings 4#be #a4ej #b pairs of garters 4#be 4#ej shoes3 #a high laced #c4jj #a pair low shoes #b4ej #a pair low left over1 half soled 4#ge #a pair high laced1 half soled 4#ge #g4jj #a pair rubbers 4#ge #a black sateen petticoat #a4jj #a long white petticoat 7left over7 #b short white petticoats 7left over7 #a new short white petticoat 4#ge #a winter hat #e4jj #a winter hat 7left over7 common wear #a summer hat 7retrimmed7 #a4ej #a new summer hat 7second7 #b4jj #a umbrella 7left over7 99#a wool skirt 7refreshened7 #a4jj 99#b shirt waists 7plain7 #a4jj #b4jj 99#a extra white waist #a4ej #a4ej #b shirt waists 7left over7 #a winter coat 7left over7 #a spring coat 7new7 #ab4jj #a pair kid gloves #a4jj #a pair wool gloves 7left over7 #a wool dress 7left over7 #a sweater 7left over7 99#a summer dress 7left over1 remodeled7 #a4jj #a white duck skirt 7left over7 99#a new white duck skirt #a4jj 99#a party dress #h4jj #a coat suit1 bought end of winter season #ad4jj #b gingham aprons #a4jj #a gingham house dress 7ready-made7 #a4ej #a summer dress #d4jj ------ ,total #gd4ge ,try to find below1 in the list for third year1 the articles left over4 ,also new articles which will be of service the fourth year4 ,do you not think it is wise to plan in this way8 ,marjorie and ,barbara have enjoyed making their budgets4 ,,third ,,year #b union suits1 winter #b4jj #d4jj #b union suits1 summer 4#ej #a4jj #a union suit1 summer 7left over7 #b flannelette nightgowns #a4jj #b4jj #a new summer nightgown 4#ge 4#ge #a summer nightgown 7left over7 99#c corset covers 4#ej #a4ej #b pairs corsets #b4jj #d4jj #f pairs of stockings 4#be #a4ej #b pairs garters 4#be 4#ej shoes3 #a pair high laced #c4jj #a pair high laced repaired1 left over1 4#ge #a pair low shoes 7new7 #b4ej #a pair party slippers 7new7 #b4jj #h4be #a pair rubbers 4#ge #a black sateen petticoat #a4jj #a long white petticoat #a4be #a new short white petticoat 4#ge #a short white petticoat 7left over7 retrimming last year's winter hat #a4be #a winter hat 7common wear7 #a4ej #a summer hat 7new7 #e4jj #a summer hat 7remodeled1 common wear7 #a4jj #a umbrella #a4jj 99#a wool skirt #d4jj 99#b shirt waists 7plain7 #a4jj #b4jj 99#a extra white waist #a4jj #a4jj #b shirt waists 7left over7 #a winter coat 7left over #b years7 #a spring coat 7left over one year7 #a pair kid gloves #a4ej #a pair wool gloves 4#ej 99#a wool dress 7remodeled after #b winters' wear7 #c4jj #b white duck skirts 7left over7 #a party dress left over 7refreshened7 #b4ej #a coat suit 7left over7 #b gingham aprons 7left over7 #a gingham house dress 7new7 #a4ej #a gingham house dress 7left over7 #a summer dress remodeled #a4jj #a new summer dress #d4jj #a raincoat #e4jj #a wool dress 7bought towards close of season7 #aj4jj #a pair winter arctics #b4jj ------ ,total #ge4jj ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems ,plan a clothing budget with mother's help1 and see how yours will differ from the above4 ,perhaps mother spends less for your clothes or more4 ,mrs4 ,allen says that ,marjorie is learning to purchase so wisely that next year she may buy all of her own clothes4 ,of course1 ,mrs4 ,allen will always be willing to help when ,marjorie needs her4 ,,lesson #h ,,planning ,,to ,,make ,a ,,dress ,,skirt ,,of ,,cotton ,,material ,let us begin to make our dress skirts4 ,open the pattern carefully and examine it4 ,how did you order it1 by age or by waist measure8 ,the pattern books usually say order by age for a girl unless she is large or small for her age2 then order by waist measure4 ,notice how many pieces you have4 ,notice whether some are to be cut on a lengthwise fold3 perhaps1 the center front and maybe the center back if it has a panel front and back4 ,notice how many gores there are4 ,do you know what a skirt gore is8 ,look at your pieces4 ,a gore is always wider at the bottom than at the top4 ,can you tell why8 ,gores are of different shapes4 ,style sometimes regulates the width1 for some seasons skirts are very narrow and at other times very full4 ,the gores help to reduce the fullness around the waist4 ,do you understand8 ,notice how many gores your pattern has4 ,the front panel is counted as one gore1 and the back panel a gore4 ,there are skirt patterns with three1 four1 or even eleven or more gores4 ,perhaps your pattern has three gores like the one in the picture 7,fig4 #abh74 ,then the center back will be cut on a lengthwise fold of material1 as there will be two front gores joining the back with seams at the hips4 ,this is an easy pattern and suitable for a young girl4 ,one must think of suitability in selecting the style to be worn4 ,instead of three1 you may have a plain five or seven gored skirt4 ,then the center front will be placed on a lengthwise fold1 and there will be two gores each side of the front for the five gored skirt1 and three each side of the front for the seven gored4 ,a five gored skirt is a simple one4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abh4--,the simple dress skirt and shirt waist4 ,study your pattern4 ,notice all the notches2 also just where the pattern is to be placed on the warp threads4 ,this is very necessary4 ,take your tapeline and measure the skirt length2 compare with your own measures4 ,your teacher will show you how to take your skirt measure1 at front1 hips1 and back1 from the waist line to the desired length 7see page #ej74 ,you have learned how4 ,pin the tapeline about the waist and measure from it4 ,if your pattern is too long1 it will be wise to double it over at the center to reduce the length4 ,if too short1 add a few inches at the bottom in cutting your cloth4 ,remember you must allow for the hem according to desired width 7see page #ej for changing patterns74 ,now lay the pieces economically4 ,remember the wide end of the gore usually cuts to best advantage at the end of the cloth4 ,pin and cut out after your teacher has approved4 ,the pattern usually allows from to #a inch for seams4 ,notice how much4 ,match the notches1 pin1 baste1 and then try on4 ,if too loose or too tight1 it is possible to stitch inside or outside of the bastings and so to alter4 ,the seams can be finished by overcasting the rough edges 7see ,fig4 #bh74 ,if your pattern calls for an opening or placket at one side of the front1 it will be appropriate to make a hem running lengthwise of the skirt as a finish at the placket1 and the skirt will not be seamed with a simple seam at that place4 ,turn to the wrong side one inch for hem along the right front4 ,baste4 ,lap this hem over the left side4 ,baste flat to the left portion of front1 and stitch nearly one inch from edge1 to within #h or #i inches of the top4 ,the placket opening on the under side of front can be bound with a two inch strip1 sewing on right side at the edge and turning to wrong just at the edge4 ,if the pattern does not allow for a hem on right front and lap finish on the right side of front1 but only for a simple seam1 then it will be necessary to face the right front portion with a strip #a-;inches wide4 ,pin the skirt to the belting4 ,it is possible to turn in the skirt edge at top of belt so that it comes even with the top of the belt4 ,this makes a slightly raised waist line4 ,stitch neatly at the top edge4 ,turn hem at the bottom the desired width and baste carefully4 ,the stitching of the hem can be done on the right side for neater finish if the basting is done with care4 ,sew on hooks and eyes4 ,be careful to attach the hooks so that they will not show on the outside of skirt4 ,mollie ,stark was so successful with her skirt that she made one for her older sister ,ruth1 and also won the prize at the ,county ,fair contest4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,study some of the skirt patterns which mother has at home4 ,compare with the one used at school4 #b4 ,what is a skirt gore8 ,describe4 ,draw on the blackboard4 #c4 ,give some suggestions for economical cutting4 ,,lesson #i ,,clothing ,,in ,,relation ,,to ,,health ,do you know that clothes help to keep us well8 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls learned how1 and we are to study1 too4 ,well people are usually happy people and they can do many more things for themselves and for others than sick people4 ,have you ever thought about this8 ,all people wish to be well1 but many are not because they forget that it is absolutely necessary to think each day about keeping well4 ,there are many things which help to accomplish this4 ,one cannot wait until the end of the month or year to think about keeping well1 but must do so every day1 as you have learned4 ,exercise and good habits1 sleep1 proper food1 recreation1 and proper clothing all have a share4 ,clothes are more important than people think4 ,ill health is often the result of lack of thought in the protection of the body4 ,let us study how clothes affect health4 ,you know clothing helps to keep us warm or cool1 if we dress properly4 ,you have learned how necessary it is to preserve an even body temperature4 ,growing girls must think about this1 for no girl is well dressed who does not think about the relation of clothes to health4 ,is a dress really beautiful if it is unhygienic8 ,miss ,travers told the ,mothers' ,club that clothing should serve our use in the best way1 should be pleasing and artistic1 but also comfortable enough to permit freedom4 ,did you ever feel sorry for the poor ,chinese women who squeeze their feet8 ,many ,american women squeeze their waists as well as their feet4 ,this prevents proper circulation of the blood and causes many complaints1 loss of hair1 and serious troubles1 because the circulatory system cannot carry nourishment to the many parts of the body4 ,perhaps you have noticed some girls wear very thin stockings1 low shoes1 and low-necked dresses2 really very scant clothing in cold weather4 ,is this a good practice1 do you think8 ,why not8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abi4--,shoes are important4 ,why8 ,heat and energy are generated by the body4 ,we have learned that it is a machine4 ,food1 water1 exercise1 rest1 keep it going4 ,heat and energy are the result and are needed if the machine is to run well4 ,if the heat is all carried away quickly because the surfaces of the body are exposed to the cold1 then there is a waste of the energy which should go to provide for the necessary workings of the body4 ,why do we wear clothing8 ,the principal reason is that the body may be protected from the cold and that the temperature of the body may be kept constant4 ,it protects also from sharp1 hard objects and briers and stones which might injure the feet4 ,many people think only of the decoration4 ,this does affect our choice of clothes too1 but should not be the prime consideration4 ,miss ,travers told the girls of ,pleasant ,valley to keep these things in mind in choosing clothes3 ,some things to remember in choosing wearing apparel4 #a4 ,adapt your clothing to your work4 ,one cannot do garden and house work in stiff collars and unsuitable clothing4 #b4 ,the condition of health will affect choice4 ,strong1 well people do not need the same kind of clothing as sick or delicate people4 #c ,age makes a difference2 young people are more vigorous than old people4 ,babies feel the heat or cold more than adults4 #d4 ,clothing should be chosen in relation to climate and temperature2 in winter1 one should prevent an undue loss of heat1 in summer1 clothing should not interfere with loss of heat4 ,some important things about wearing clothing4 #a4 ,wet clothing is very dangerous and should be removed at once4 ,if this is not possible1 exercise1 keep moving1 until there is opportunity for a rubdown and change4 ,john ,alden always runs when he gets his clothes very wet4 #b4 ,the clothing worn next to the skin should be changed twice a week4 ,the body gives off impurities which are absorbed by the clothing4 ,this change is necessary if one wishes to keep well4 #c4 ,clothing worn at night should be aired during the day1 not shut up in a closet or folded and placed under a pillow4 #d4 ,clothing worn during the day should be aired at night4 ,this is necessary for health4 ,the same underwear should never be worn day and night both4 ,how do you air your clothes8 7,fig4 #ef47 ,many mothers do not change baby's shirt at night and wonder why he cannot sleep and is so cross4 ,sometimes this irritability is due to this very cause4 #e4 ,outer garments should be rather closely woven1 so that the wind cannot penetrate and carry the heat away too rapidly4 #f4 ,heavy garments are a great burden4 ,one wearing them is not free to act or work4 ,next lesson we will study about selecting our clothes1 shoes1 underwear1 and other garments with reference to health4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,write on the blackboard some important things to remember in choosing wearing apparel4 #b4 ,tell some important things to remember in wearing clothing4 ,,lesson #aj ,,more ,,health ,,problems ,,in ,,choosing ,,clothes ,clothes help to keep us well4 ,let us study about the wise selection and use of them4 ,buying shoes4 ,when ,barbara ,oakes goes to buy a pair of shoes what do you suppose she thinks about besides the fact that they are pretty and that she likes or dislikes them8 ,she remembers that they should fit her feet4 ,she thinks about these things3 #a4 ,they should suit her purpose1 be adapted to her use4 #b4 ,they should fit the instep and heel snugly4 #c4 ,they should be straight on the inside line4 #d4 ,the heel should be broad enough to balance the body well4 #e4 ,the soles should be strong enough to walk1 and thick enough so dampness cannot strike through4 #f4 ,there should be plenty of room for the toes to move4 7,see ,fig4 #abi74 #g4 ,they should be long and wide enough for comfort4 ,tight shoes are a strain on the body4 ,many girls have fallen arch4 ,this affects the whole nervous system and makes them ill4 ,many are suffering and do not know the cause4 ,barbara ,oakes was ill for a long time before her mother or the doctor knew why4 ,it is not necessary to wear an arch supporter or an orthopedic shoe1 if one has normal feet2 and one can have normal feet if the above things are remembered4 ,some girls choose foolish footwear1 and later have much discomfort and are unable to walk4 ,very great care must be taken to keep the feet dry4 ,it is cheaper to buy a pair of rubbers than to pay a doctor2 and rubbers save shoes and keep the wet from rotting the thread of the shoes4 ,many women forget that it is dangerous for a woman to get her feet wet4 ,selecting clothing that is healthful4 ,stockings should be chosen in relation to climate4 ,it is unwise to wear thin1 transparent stockings on a cold day4 ,if possible have two weights and select according to weather4 ,corsets are important4 ,they may seriously affect health if not worn correctly4 ,they should fit snugly over the hips but allow freedom at the waist line4 ,for young girls corset waists are very satisfactory4 ,great care should be taken1 however1 when the first corset is selected4 ,jane ,smith says her mother tried several for her before getting exactly the right one4 ,the corset should leave no marks on the body4 ,the danger is that1 unless well fitted1 a corset interferes with circulation4 ,lacing causes all kinds of troubles4 ,it deforms the body and makes it hour glass in shape1 instead of free and beautiful like ,miss ,james' picture of the ,venus de ,milo 7,fig4 #acj74 ,when tight bands or corsets interfere with circulation1 the blood supply for the brain and the other organs is shut off1 and consequently these organs are not nourished4 ,most girls wish to preserve the graceful waist line with which nature has endowed them4 ,do you8 ,fat easily accumulates around the waist1 but plenty of exercise1 gardening1 sweeping1 walking1 climbing1 will prevent this4 ,buy a corset which supports your organs1 one which does not press downwards2 and arrange the garters so that they will not be too tight and interfere with the circulation4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acj4--,notice the beautiful lines on the figure of ,venus de ,milo4 ,underwear affects health4 ,do you remember that we discovered the reason why one should be particular about the kind of underwear worn8 ,we learned that ill health and fatigue are often caused by weight of clothing or by tight clothing causing lack of circulation or by clothing which prevents the skin from being ventilated4 ,textile materials and temperature of the body are closely related4 ,we should learn to know which materials to select4 ,each person feels the need differently4 ,old people and little babies feel the heat or cold more than other people4 ,grandmother ,stark usually feels cold and wears a shawl about her shoulders4 ,underwear must be chosen in relation to climatic conditions and also for conditions under which one wears them1 for indoor or outdoor work4 ,each must study her health1 the climate1 her age1 and occupation1 and plan accordingly for the best kind4 ,underwear should be chosen which can be easily cleansed1 also that which will permit plenty of air next to the skin4 ,these properties of materials1 as we call them1 must be studied4 ,the body1 as we know1 loses heat and water every day4 ,some materials conduct heat more rapidly than others2 and some absorb and retain1 while others eliminate1 moisture more readily4 ,absorption and elimination differ with different fabrics4 ,linen is quicker than other fabrics to eliminate moisture4 ,wool on a dry body of a person who does not exercise freely feels warm and continues so as long as the skin does not give off more moisture than the wool can take up4 ,if the body continues then to give off moisture1 the heat of the body cannot escape and one does not feel comfortable4 ,if a current of air or a draught occurs1 the heat will be conducted quickly and the bodily temperature reduced too quickly4 ,so underwear must not only prevent too great loss of heat by conduction1 but must be so constructed as to conserve heat when it is needed4 ,heat is eliminated when materials conduct it4 ,porosity of materials prevents too great elimination4 ,the air in the meshes or pores prevents this1 as a still layer of air does not conduct heat readily4 ,a loosely woven or knitted shawl is warmer under certain conditions than one which is firmer4 ,two lightweight garments are better than one heavy one because of the air space between4 ,wool is warm1 but irritating to many people4 ,it is not as cleanly as some fabrics1 for it absorbs the body excretions and is not easily laundered4 ,as it shrinks with use1 it has fewer air spaces between the meshes4 ,any loosely woven or knitted underwear with air spaces is more hygienic than the closely woven4 ,cotton garments are often woven loosely and so treated in manufacture that they absorb easily4 ,silk is very pleasing but costly4 ,silk and wool combined are also excellent1 but expensive4 ,the great argument for wool or for wool and cotton is that evaporation is slow unless moisture and draught are present1 and so the bodily temperature is not apt to be reduced so unduly as through cotton or linen2 in other words1 one is not so apt to take cold4 ,union suits form an even layer over the whole body and are considered more hygienic than the double layer of vest and drawers at the abdomen4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,what underwear do you think is the best kind for you to wear considering your age1 work1 climate1 health8 #b4 ,write a composition of two hundred words about the best kind of corsets to wear1 and why4 #c4 ,what important things will you consider the next time you buy a pair of shoes8 ,,review ,,problems ,i4 ,begin to keep your clothing budget4 ,ask mother to permit you to plan it4 ,do not stop at the end of the year2 keep on for at least four years4 ,,ii4 ,in what ways are you definitely planning each day to keep well8 ,how do clothes help8 ,,iii4 ,what facts learned at school can you give mother about wool1 which will help in buying your new winter coat4 ,,iv4 ,plan a school exhibit of all the work done during the year4 ,your teacher will make suggestions about the refreshments and invitations as well as plans for mounting the work4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,vi ,,choosing ,,and ,,wearing ,,clothes ,have you ever thought that being properly and attractively dressed helps towards achieving success in life8 ,marjorie's ,cousin ,ann says she knows that the neat1 tidy girls who come to the factory looking for work are more apt to be chosen than those who are careless about their dress4 ,cousin ,ann1 as you have learned1 is very particular about her appearance4 ,she learned long ago that cleanliness of clothing is the first essential in being well dressed1 and that neatness is another requirement4 ,cousin ,ann knows that it takes time to wash out her collars1 her shields1 and stockings every other night2 but she also realizes that she must be particular about her appearance if she wishes to be retained at the factory4 ,she takes time to mend the tears which sometimes come so unexpectedly1 and the lace which is ripped on her waist1 or to sew on the button which will soon be lost from her coat unless sewed4 ,if she spills anything on her dress or coat1 she tries as soon as possible to remove the spot4 ,this takes thought1 too1 as well as time2 but ,ann knows that it pays4 ,have you1 too1 thought about these things8 ,one must also know what is suitable and appropriate for various occasions1 and how to choose becoming colors in materials or hats and gowns if one buys them ready-made4 ,this is really a study in buying1 too1 and of knowing how materials are made and can be tested4 ,all these things were discussed by ,miss ,james and the ,pleasant ,valley girls4 ,they were always very glad when ,miss ,travers came to help too4 ,,lesson #a ,,what ,,it ,,means ,,to ,,be ,,well ,,dressed ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls have decided that it is worth while learning about suitable and attractive dress4 ,they are anxious to begin this study4 ,suppose we learn some of the things one must think about and study in order to be properly and attractively dressed4 ,one does not have to be expensively dressed in order to be attractively and well dressed4 ,much depends on appropriateness4 ,it is not appropriate for a girl to wear jewelry1 thin stockings1 low fancy slippers1 lace waists1 feather hats1 to work or to school4 ,how much more attractive and appropriate is a plain1 neat shirt waist and cloth skirt1 a plain necktie and a simple hat1 and plain boots or ties4 ,one should not dress as if one were going to a party when one goes to work or to school4 ,do you understand what appropriateness means8 ,it means wearing the suitable kind of clothing for every occasion4 ,it is our duty to be as well dressed as possible1 for our friends' sakes as well as for our own2 but a well-dressed girl is never conspicuous4 ,clothes which would be appropriate in a large city for a reception might be very inappropriate in a small town4 ,our daily clothes should be adapted to our uses1 whether in country or city4 ,would you wear your party dress for gardening or for tennis or skating8 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aca4--,which of these girls looks ready to do her work8 ,criticize your own garments4 ,try to have them neat and clean1 for this makes one more self-respecting4 ,try to have your clothes convenient1 neat1 graceful1 beautiful1 allowing for free movements of the body4 ,choose something which is not overdecorated but which will emphasize your charm and personality4 ,young girls do not need jewelry or much decoration on clothes1 for youth is always charming in itself4 ,some girls try to copy every latest style4 ,do you8 ,one should not unless it is a style which will suit one4 ,cousin ,ann heard a talk at the ,young ,women's ,christian ,association one night4 ,it was on simplicity of dress4 ,the speaker was from a large department store in ,paterson where ,ann lives1 and she gave ,ann some new ideas about dress4 ,she said simplicity is not necessarily plainness1 but it means being so intelligent that one knows what to leave off in the way of decoration4 ,she said being well dressed is knowing what to omit4 ,she also said that trimmings and ornaments without reason are foolish and spoil a gown4 ,because one bow looks well it does not follow that ten will improve one's appearance4 ,so many girls are really caricatures4 ,they wear every exaggerated thing and many things which are not refined1 as the very low neck1 or the very scant or transparent skirt4 ,this is not beauty of dress1 but very bad and vulgar taste4 ,the speaker said that beauty of costume is not necessarily the result of costliness1 but of artistic appreciation4 ,cousin ,ann said several of the members of her sewing club were at this lecture1 and they decided to ask ,miss ,willing1 who leads their club1 to talk about artistic appreciation4 ,cousin ,ann said she did not quite understand what the speaker meant4 ,this is what ,miss ,willing told the girls1 and then they understood perfectly4 ,perhaps you would like to know1 too4 ,a costume is a work of art4 ,she said we must think of our costumes as being works of art4 ,every girl has a style of her own1 and she should study it and dress so as to bring out all her good points and conceal those not so attractive4 ,one's hair or eyes should be considered in choosing color4 ,stooped or narrow shoulders1 if they cannot be corrected1 can be made to look less narrow by the plan of the gown4 ,stout figures can be made to look less stout4 ,so by choosing the right colors and correct decoration and right lines1 one can often improve one's appearance4 ,miss ,willing says to understand about this is to have what the speaker at the ,young ,women's ,christian ,association called artistic appreciation4 ,one should cultivate artistic appreciation for good furnishings as well as for appropriate dress4 ,miss ,willing told the girls another evening about color and good lines1 for they are all so anxious to learn4 ,they never even imagined before that any one ever thought about such things4 ,marjorie ,allen and the other girls at ,pleasant ,valley ,school are very glad ,cousin ,ann told them too4 ,the costume should be the background as it were4 ,miss ,willing says to remember always that a really artistic costume is one which makes us say what a lovely girl6 rather than what a lovely gown she is wearing4 ,a costume should not be so strong in color or design that one thinks only of that4 ,do you remember how in some rooms we feel the pattern of the wall paper or of the carpet4 ,when one does1 the design is poor2 the wall is the background4 ,our clothes should make the wearers' good qualities stand out4 ,they should be subordinate1 ,miss ,willing says4 ,do you understand that word8 ,miss ,willing says the outline of our clothed figures should be pleasing4 ,have you ever walked to town and seen girls with large hats which were not balanced on their heads1 and short skirts and perhaps large muffs8 ,if you watch them as they come towards you down the street1 you will see that the whole outline or silhouette against the sky or house is poor2 they look top-heavy or1 we say1 unbalanced4 ,such a costume is not good4 ,a smaller hat with the short skirt is what is needed in order to have a balanced figure4 ,the outline of the natural human figure is most beautiful4 ,look at the lovely figure of the ,grecian woman 7,fig4 #acb72 see how the lines follow her figure4 ,costumes which make ugly lumps1 as bustles and large muffs1 and other ugly shapes are not well balanced4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acb4--,notice the lovely folds of the ,grecian costume4 ,an artistic dress shows good taste4 ,do you remember your talks in your art class about the spaces in a design1 and the relation of one to the other4 ,this is true in dresses too4 ,tucks1 buttons1 seams1 bands of trimming all mark off spaces on our bodies 7,fig4 #acc74 ,in order to have a really artistic dress1 there must be a plan about the arrangement of spaces4 ,a short1 stout girl with bands of trimming running around her skirt and with lines of trimming running up and down the waist will present a very strange appearance to one who has artistic appreciation4 ,can you tell why this would not be good taste8 ,a stout figure should wear vertical lines of trimming rather than horizontal2 and the spaces between lines should be such as will make the girl look smaller rather than larger2 so dresses must be really designed1 and the spaces1 colors1 values1 really thought about4 ,do you know what value means8 ,some costumes have contrast in values4 ,black and white are sharp contrasts4 ,one sees the black or the white at once4 ,these spots of black or white jump at one unless there is something to connect the two1 as gray1 which would be an intermediate value4 ,spotty costumes are not good or restful4 ,have you seen1 perhaps1 a white dress with black hat and gloves and shoes8 ,did you notice how the black things stand out and the eye jumps from one spot of black to another8 ,a white dress with white shoes and gloves and a black hat trimmed with some white1 thus carrying some of the white to the black1 would be better4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acc4--,notice the good spacing and arrangement of lines4 ,miss ,willing said this is called studying values4 ,we can study values of color as well as of black and white4 ,next lesson we shall learn what ,miss ,willing told the girls about color in selecting or making dresses4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,why do you think ,miss ,willing had good taste in dress8 #b4 ,what can you tell about ,miss ,willing's talk on artistic appreciation8 ,what does it mean in relation to dress8 #c4 ,criticize your own garments in relation to line1 simplicity1 decoration1 appropriateness4 ,,lesson #b ,,the ,,choice ,,of ,,colors ,,for ,,clothing ,color is important in choosing or making our clothes4 ,we too must learn if we would choose as wisely as the ,pleasant ,valley girls4 ,miss ,james thinks that the ,pleasant ,valley girls have learned so much about color in relation to general design in their art classes that they will be able to understand easily about color in dress too4 ,colors1 they have learned1 have value1 with gradations from light to dark4 ,in black and white the contrast is striking1 but when values are closer together the harmony is closer and less conspicuous4 ,in choosing your new spring dress be sure to think of your own characteristics4 ,your appearance may be injured or improved according to the color chosen4 ,color even more than design may spoil the appearance1 and is important to the wearer and to all who come in contact with her1 for color is expression of one's refinement and culture4 ,every girl of ,pleasant ,valley will wish to know how to look her best4 ,color in which there has been mixed much gray1 as dull blue or dull red rather than pure bright color1 is apt to make the individual characteristics stand out4 ,this grayness in color forms a background as it were1 or a setting1 for the face and shows the figure to best advantage4 ,artists have a way of expressing this brilliancy of color4 ,miss ,james says they call it intensity4 ,do you understand what is meant by color when it is strongest and loudest and most intense8 ,think of red of the most vivid brilliant kind2 gradually think of it growing grayer and grayer until it is pure gray4 ,by intensity of a color is meant this difference in grayness4 ,very few people can wear very bright red4 ,miss ,james says she must have the grayed colors1 in dahlia tones of red if she wishes a dark dress of this color1 or in old rose if she wishes a dress which will be less somber4 ,this is true of all colors2 only red is perhaps the most difficult to use4 ,one learns to use color in its full intensity only for touches here and there on a gown or a hat1 which is itself not intense in color4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acd4--;,can you find the middle values of gray8 ,large people should not wear red4 ,blue or green are cooling1 quieting colors and so are better adapted to large figures than red and also better for those whose features are not very pronounced4 ,blues which are not very strong1 or so grayed that they have lost half or more than half of their strength1 are more interesting and becoming for large figures for a whole dress4 ,yellow is nearest light1 and in combination with red gives the oranges from which we get browns of all kinds and degrees1 rich and warm in effect4 ,try mixing these colors in your paint box4 ,green combines yellow and blue4 ,it is a light1 cheerful1 and calm color1 always restful and soothing4 ,the yellow-greens are perhaps more cheerful2 that is1 when more yellow than blue is used4 ,when more blue is introduced1 the greens are more soothing and cool4 ,violet is red and blue mixed2 a cool and exciting color1 which can be very intense or very subdued4 ,choosing color for a dress4 ,do you think the ,pleasant ,valley girls will think before choosing their new gowns whether it is for school1 or for a best dress1 for a party or for the house8 ,even apron material can be chosen which will make the wearer look unattractive4 ,why not look pretty and clean when one is at work too8 ,miss ,willing says that quiet color in dress is an evidence of good taste4 ,in combining colors in dress one must aim to obtain the right balance in color4 ,miss ,willing says1 in planning the color scheme for a costume1 think about the dominant or most prominent color and endeavor to bring the others into harmony with it4 ,harmony is the result of colors being brought together4 ,touches of black help to bring colors together and so harmonize them4 ,miss ,willing gave several other suggestions for harmony4 ,cousin ,ann put them down in her notebook and sent them to ,marjorie4 #a4 ,when one wishes to use contrasting colors1 as yellow and violet1 one can get pleasing harmony by using a large quantity of one color and a small amount of the other4 ,this subordinate relationship of one color to the other gives harmony2 the more grayed the tone of the large mass of color1 the greater the intensity of color in contrast that can be used4 #b4 ,in combining colors of weak intensity for harmony1 a harmony of costume of one mode1 that is one color used in different values1 is safe but is not always so interesting as the contrasting colors4 #c4 ,to emphasize a color1 a touch of the same may be added to some part of the costume4 ,blue eyes seem even more blue with a blue necktie around the shirt waist collar4 #d4 ,another way to make a good harmony is to use complementary colors4 ,red and blue2 green1 violet1 and yellow2 green and plum2 blue and orange2 purple and yellow-green4 ,one should be used intense1 and the other in a gray tone4 ,for example1 in combining color with hair1 greens1 particularly gray greens1 are very pleasing with auburn hair4 ,barbara ,oakes discovered that fact with her auburn hair4 ,violet tends to make yellow hair look more golden1 so care must be taken to have a gray violet so the gold color in the hair will not be overpowered4 ,red hair is made to look brighter when a blue costume is worn4 ,so you see one can avoid unfortunate combinations if one studies the strength of the color of the hair in relation to the colors to be used4 ,learning to combine colors4 ,miss ,james had many samples of gauzy chiffons which the girls learned to handle and to combine so as to get artistic results1 for combinations of complementary and contrasting colors as well as for combinations of one hue4 ,it is only through trying that one learns4 ,this1 too1 is a matter of appreciation4 ,some people have finer appreciation for color than others4 ,by thinking about this and learning all you can in school and from books1 you too may come to have real color appreciation4 ,in choosing the best colors for your figure or for mother's or for auntie's1 you must think about the value and intensity as well as the other characteristics of color4 ,our costumes1 as a rule1 are worn for different occasions and are seen against different backgrounds4 ,we say that the backgrounds1 as in rooms1 or against rocks or grass or hillside1 are of about middle value--halfway between white and black2 in other words1 gray4 ,black and white costumes1 then1 will always stand out4 ,white tends to make the figure appear large2 black calls attention to the outlines of figure and looks best on people with good figures because of this emphasis of outline4 ,blue1 blue green1 and blue violet--if of middle value1 very gray--or gray itself are best adapted to stout figures as they are retiring colors4 ,they seem to melt into the background and do not give prominence to the figure4 ,a little brighter color may be added and make the costume more becoming to the face4 ,this should be used through the center of the gown1 not at the edge to draw the eye to the boundaries of the stout figure4 ,a rose or a flower of contrast at the center of the belt is an example4 ,studying lines of a costume4 ,miss ,james says the best way to get an effect of height is to place the longest possible vertical lines through the center of the figure with no points of emphasis as trimming on the outer parts 7,fig4 #ace74 ,for a slim figure1 when one wishes to appear stout1 the outline of the figure should be emphasized at the outer sides of sleeves or shoulders or skirts1 by such arrangement of trimming that the eye is carried across the figure 7,fig4 #acf74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ace4--,vertical lines through the center of the costume make the figure appear thinner4 ,miss ,willing and the girls had a good laugh about the use of large plaids and broad stripes for stout people4 ,plaids or squares certainly tend to emphasize stoutness1 as do bold designs or conspicuous color combinations4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acf4--,notice how the emphasis on the outside of the costume makes the figure appear larger4 ,so many things to remember--line1 value1 color2 all-important1 if one is to be attractively dressed4 ,miss ,james has decided to permit the girls to work out the color combinations at school for their new spring dresses4 ,the subject of color in choosing hats is equally important4 ,let us study next lesson about it4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,study your own characteristics4 ,write them down4 ,decide what predominating color you would like for a spring dress4 ,from the chiffon colors which your teacher has1 combine the appropriate color combination which you would like4 #b4 ,arrange with the chiffon samples1 combinations of complementary colors1 of contrasting colors4 #c4 ,write a composition on the subject of ,what makes a girl well dressed4 ,,lesson #c ,,selecting ,a ,,hat ,what can you learn about the care and arrangement of your hair4 ,do you know how to choose a hat8 ,jane ,smith says that some day she expects to be a milliner4 ,perhaps she will be4 ,miss ,james says she can later go to a school and study millinery4 ,this means that ,jane will learn not only how to make hats1 but about the right lines and colors to use4 ,jane has a natural deftness of touch and a good idea about copying and designing2 so ,miss ,james thinks she will make a good milliner4 ,so often hats are unbecoming because the colors are inharmonious1 or the lines out of relation to the face wearing them4 ,whether one is old or young1 one should think about this4 ,give some care and thought to your hair4 ,one day when ,miss ,travers came from the ,state ,college to speak to the ,mothers' ,clubs1 she stopped at the school and gave a talk to the girls of ,pleasant ,valley ,school about their hair and hats4 ,she said that so many women and girls forget to take care of their hair4 ,it should be washed once a month in hot water with castile soap and perhaps with the white of an egg1 and then thoroughly rinsed4 ,the comb and brush should be washed once a week4 ,marjorie ,allen's mother has beautiful hair1 and she says she does as ,miss ,travers told the girls2 and also she brushes her hair carefully to remove dust1 every night before going to bed1 and braids her hair in two braids for the night4 ,this is a very good way to care for one's hair4 ,have you ever noticed how some girls nearly lose all their hair because they burn it or dry it up with the curling irons8 ,one should be very careful always to test the irons on a paper4 ,burned hair is not beautiful4 ,so often girls forget that the becomingness of a hat will depend on the way the hair is taken care of or dressed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acg4--,which arrangement of hair and bow do you think most appropriate for school wear8 ,large bows1 out of proportion to the size of the head1 are very poor taste4 ,a bow as well as a hat should suit the face in line as well as color1 and a bow which stands way out in conspicuous angles is not good in line1 as it is not apt to conform to the lines of the face and of the head wearing it4 ,have you noticed this8 ,perhaps you can try to rearrange some of the bows the girls are wearing to school so they will be in better taste4 ,cleanliness of the head and hair1 and a clean1 clear complexion1 which comes from proper food and good digestion as well as from cleanliness1 are the best backgrounds for a hat4 ,any girl who has this charm of cleanliness can with thought choose a hat which will be becoming4 ,hats1 also1 emphasize the defects as well as the good points of the wearer2 so neatness and a becoming way of arranging the hair will help very much4 ,perhaps some of the girls would like to learn to make hats1 too4 ,the hat is the most difficult article of the whole wardrobe to select4 ,most girls and women wear hats that are too small and that stand on the top of the head instead of fitting it4 ,good taste1 ,miss ,james says1 in choosing hats means the very thing we have studied about3 artistic appreciation1 a knowledge of line and color and form as well as appropriateness4 ,think about the shape and the lines of a hat4 ,hats should be chosen or planned1 if one is making them1 in relation to the whole figure4 ,do you stand up or sit down before the mirror in selecting a hat8 ,try standing up so you can see your whole figure and the relation of the hat to the whole4 ,you can tell then if the hat is too large or too small1 whether it overbalances the figure1 or if the silhouette will be pleasing4 ,marjorie ,allen says since she has learned about these things she is surprised to notice how few people have thought of this question of the silhouette4 ,sometimes1 the milliners are to blame too1 for they do not always know this secret4 ,marjorie says her new winter hat does not please her because of the silhouette4 ,miss ,travers told the girls to think especially about lines4 ,the round-faced girl whose nose turns up a little will look best in a hat that is slightly tilted in front or with a rolling brim at the side or front4 ,barbara ,oakes says she discovered that for herself4 ,she had two hats which rolled in that way2 and she liked them better and was more comfortable in them than in others4 ,she also learned through experience that she did not look well in narrow hats that bend over the face4 ,miss ,travers says it is true when one's face is full and the nose retrouss1 that such a shape is not apt to be becoming4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ach4--,one can select a hat which will make a good silhouette when one sees the whole figure before a mirror4 ,miss ,james says she noticed that long1 thin faces look longer and thinner in high pointed trimmings4 ,what kind of trimming1 then1 would you recommend for a long1 thin face8 ,for long faces1 a brim worn slightly forward will cast a shadow and so tend to shorten the length of the face2 and brims that are rolling and wide1 counteract the effect of the long1 thin face4 ,do you see how very important it is to study the face and its lines8 ,the way of dressing one's hair may make it difficult to choose a hat4 ,if the person with the long1 thin face also draws back her hair sharply at the sides1 her face will look longer and it will be more difficult to choose a hat for such a face4 ,if the hair is worn very fluffy when one has a very round1 full face1 then the face is apt to look fuller4 ,so you see hairdressing is very important to study too1 if a girl is to look her best and choose the most becoming hats4 ,color1 too1 should be kept in mind4 ,some skins are pale2 others are rosy4 ,black makes the complexion look white and should not be worn next to a dark1 swarthy skin4 ,browns are apt to look well with auburn hair like ,jane ,alden's4 ,she has such a clear complexion4 ,barbara's mother1 ,mrs4 ,oakes1 with gray eyes and hair1 will look well in gray4 ,we have studied about contrasting colors4 ,the contrasting colors for a person with light hair will be quite different from the colors for a person with auburn hair4 ,notice what is said in the lesson about color in selection of dress4 ,this is true of hats too4 ,select a hat that is becoming4 ,in choosing hats aim always to get what is becoming to you and your style rather than the extremes of fashion4 ,the latest styles can always be adapted to suit your style if a milliner knows her business4 ,remember that very often hats are not becoming because they are not ,,worn ,,properly4 ,sometimes the wearer forgets and pushes the hat back or to one side2 and then its lines do not conform to the outline of hair and head and face4 ,study how to wear your hats4 ,large hats are often difficult to wear because of correct balance4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aci4--,which way looks better8 ,if you would like to try to make a simple summer hat1 perhaps you can buy a frame1 and with your teacher's help learn to change and adapt it to your face4 ,it is easy to learn to sew straw on a frame and to trim with a bow or flowers4 ,simple trimming for young girls is always the most pleasing2 flowers1 wings1 quills1 and simple bows are the most suitable4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,what things will you have in mind when you go to the milliner's to select a new hat1 or to have your old hat remodeled8 ,write a list of the principal points to be kept in mind in choosing4 #b4 ,bring to school pictures of hats adapted to faces2 some that are not4 ,you can find these in old fashion magazines2 perhaps in old portraits4 ,pin them on your classroom ,bulletin ,board4 ,criticize4 ,your teacher will probably have some too4 ,why is this a good subject to study8 ,,lesson #d ,,making ,,the ,,middy ,,blouse ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls will make middy blouses and so complete their gymnasium suits4 ,will you not wish to complete your suits too8 ,the girls have found their bloomers and skirts very useful1 and are glad to make the middy blouse too4 ,they will use the same material as for the skirt4 ,by this time the ,pleasant ,valley girls are so expert that they make no mistakes in laying on their patterns or in cutting out garments4 ,they are very particular to have the long line of single perforations indicating the length lying exactly on the warp threads of the cloth4 ,jane ,smith says she can tell exactly which pieces must be cut double on a fold of the goods4 ,can you8 ,the girls sent for patterns for #cd bust measure and for #ch4 ,some of the girls are quite large for their age--,jane ,andrews and ,barbara both are large and will need the #ch size4 ,miss ,james opened a pattern and held up all the pieces4 ,she pinned them to the dress form so as to show the relationship of each piece to the figure4 ,can you do this1 too1 before you begin to cut1 and so learn which pieces are to be cut on a fold8 ,then lay the pattern on your cloth most carefully and pin ready for cutting4 ,do not cut until your teacher says you may4 ,learn to use a tracing wheel and trace your seams1 so all will match in putting the middy together4 ,this garment will be made entirely by machine1 except the hand processes of basting and gathering4 ,hems and facings should be carefully basted before being stitched4 ,good1 perfect stitching improves all such tailored garments4 ,poor stitching spoils the effect4 ,how to make a middy blouse4 ,after the pattern has been carefully laid on1 and the material cut out1 this is the way to make and finish a middy blouse3 #a4 ,baste1 with the seams on the outside1 shoulder1 and underarm seams4 ,try on4 ,if necessary in order to fit more smoothly across the chest1 let the front drop2 if extra fullness across the chest is desired1 let out under the arms4 ,the shoulder seams will be finished1 but not the underarm4 ,mark with tracing or pencil the new seam for underarm if you must change it4 ,make a flat fell seam at the shoulder1 -inch wide finished4 ,you have all learned how4 #b4 ,the sleeves1 which are in one piece1 are put in next1 before the sleeves or underarms are seamed4 ,match the notches1 gather the sleeves if there is any fullness at armhole1 and baste in the sleeves so that the seam is on the right side4 ,make flat fells1 basting the turn which falls over the sleeves so that it will lie very flat4 #c4 ,baste seams of sleeve and underarm all in one long seam on right side4 ,match at armhole4 ,make flat fell1 turning the fell towards the front 7see page #baf74 #d4 ,hem the bottom of the middy with one inch hem4 #e4 ,finish the neck next4 ,prepare the collar with its facing according to the notches of the pattern and directions4 ,sew2 turn to right side4 ,if the collar is to be decorated with finishing braid1 this decorating should be done before the collar and facing are sewed together4 ,attach collar to middy1 right of center collar to right of the center back of middy4 ,the seam will then fall on the inside towards the neck and will be concealed by the facing which should be turned in and sewed over the seam4 ,patterns for middies vary1 and other methods of attaching collar may be suggested4 ,a loose ribbon or scarf of silk can be tied under the collar to form a sailor's knot4 #f4 ,then finish the sleeve4 ,the sleeve may be finished with a half inch hem and rolled as many are worn1 or a cuff can be attached which will be of the same width as the sleeve or just to fit the wrist4 ,in the latter case1 the fullness of the sleeve must be gathered to fit4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adj4--;,eyelets were made by some girls1 in the front of their middy waists4 ,the girls of ,pleasant ,valley ,school made sleeves of three quarter length1 and attached a turned-up cuff of same width as sleeve4 ,this cuff was made double3 the two pieces sewed together1 turned1 and attached to the sleeve with the seam1 on the outside of sleeve4 ,the facing1 then1 concealed the seam and1 when the cuff was turned up1 was entirely concealed4 ,this makes a very neat finish inside the sleeve4 ,some of the girls1 those who worked rapidly1 made eyelets at the front of the middy and laced the middy4 ,eyelets are punched with a stiletto or sharp point1 and are worked like a buttonhole1 only perfectly round4 ,the girls of ,pleasant ,valley will give an entertainment of calisthenic exercises as soon as their middy suits are entirely completed4 ,the boys will also give some exercises with the dumbbells and join in the folk dancing4 ,the ,pleasant ,valley ,news has already announced this entertainment at the ,town ,hall4 ,every body in ,pleasant ,valley is going4 ,the money will be used to pay for some of the furnishings of the ,ellen ,h4 ,richards ,house4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,draw a sketch of your middy blouse4 ,how will yours differ from the one in the picture8 #b4 ,try to make another middy at home4 ,,lesson #e ,,suggestions ,,for ,,buying ,,garments ,,of ,,wool ,,and ,,silk ,miss ,travers from the ,state ,college talks to the girls of ,pleasant ,valley ,school about buying clothing1 especially of wool or silk4 ,you1 too1 will wish to know what ,miss ,travers said4 ,have you ever considered whether it is wise or not to buy your clothing ready-made8 ,most of the mothers of the ,pleasant ,valley girls make the garments at home with some assistance from the visiting dressmaker4 ,what a help the ,pleasant ,valley girls will be when the dressmaker comes to their homes4 ,they are not old enough to take full responsibility1 but they will surely be able to assist after the dressmaker has planned4 ,this will help their mothers1 too4 ,mrs4 ,allen1 ,mrs4 ,stark1 and ,mrs4 ,oakes have already discovered how many good suggestions their daughters have to give4 ,it is sometimes wise to buy things ready-made4 ,in our grandmothers' day this was impossible4 ,grandmother ,stark used to stitch all ,grandfather ,stark's shirts by hand and make his overalls4 ,to-day one can buy good serviceable garments like overalls1 rompers1 shirts1 etc41 at moderate prices1 ready-made4 ,just what should be made at home should be determined by the mother1 and will depend on her time and duties at home4 ,some mothers can so organize their household work that they have time for some sewing too1 and they enjoy the change of work4 ,it pays to make certain garments because the workmanship is often better and one can choose one's own materials4 ,this means that the life of the garment is apt to be longer4 ,this is economy if one has the time and strength2 but it never pays if one sacrifices other things like fresh air1 exercise1 some relaxation1 for the sake of saving a little money4 ,what should you consider in buying ready-made garments8 ,miss ,travers says it never pays to buy flimsy materials1 cheap lace edging1 or insertions which are poorly put together and will tear4 ,one can instead purchase ready-made garments which are plain4 ,it is not always possible to afford the time to make dainty1 fine1 handmade underwear1 which soon wears out2 but one can often spare the time to construct a few pairs of more durable drawers1 and corset covers1 by machine for everyday wear1 when one realizes how much greater will be the life of the garment4 ,if one is buying ready-made garments1 one should think about the following things3 #a4 ,is the material suitable8 will it wear well8 is the color suitable or will it fade very soon8 #b4 ,consider the workmanship4 ,are the seams well sewed8 ,is the stitching very coarse1 or does the garment look well finished8 ,is the appearance neat1 or will it pull apart very soon8 #c4 ,the construction should be examined4 ,is the garment well cut1 or is it cheap because it is scant in fullness8 ,this may not permit of freedom in movement1 and the garment may have to be cast aside because uncomfortable4 ,then money is wasted4 #d4 ,it never pays to buy anything which one does not need4 ,it is well to have foresight and to plan for what one will need for the year1 but experience soon teaches one the quantity4 ,it is foolish to buy unnecessary things because they are pretty4 ,one should learn not to be tempted4 #e4 ,it sometimes pays to wait until certain seasons for purchasing garments4 ,between seasons one can get well-made articles of clothing at considerable reduction1 if one can wait4 ,winter garments are reduced in ,january or ,february1 and summer goods in ,july or ,august4 ,it often pays to wait4 ,in planning one's wardrobe1 one can think about this4 ,january is often a good time to buy household linens or other furnishings at a reduction4 #f4 ,the use of garments should guide one in making a selection4 ,it is necessary to study one's whole wardrobe and to know what is needed4 ,a girl engaged in business will need an entirely different wardrobe from one who spends most of her time at home helping mother4 ,the first step1 then1 in economy is to know one's needs and to purchase accordingly4 ,is the garment needed and suitable for the occasion8 ,remember about appropriateness1 and buy garments which will render the service needed4 ,one does not wear silk dresses for housework4 #g4 ,sometimes undergarments are made in sweatshops under very undesirable conditions for health4 ,the garments are cheap because made by poorly paid workers under very unsanitary conditions4 ,do you wish to wear such garments8 ,as long as women buy the cheap kind made at the sacrifice of human life1 this sweatshop system will continue4 ,one can buy inexpensive underwear made under sanitary conditions4 ,it is labeled with a tag of the ,consumers' ,league4 ,this is an organization which is trying to better the conditions in workrooms and shops in which clothing is made and to improve wages and working hours4 ,this ,league permits the use of its label on white underwear made under the conditions they approve of3 no work outside of factories1 no child labor under sixteen years of age1 and obedience to the state labor laws4 ,the labels are used by firms agreeing to fulfill the above requirements4 ,if you are purchasing underwear1 perhaps you can buy some with the ,consumers' ,league label4 ,it looks like this 7,fig4 #ada74 ,miss ,james wears this kind1 and ,mrs4 ,oakes and ,mrs4 ,allen1 too1 now that they know about it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ada4--;,consumers' ,league ,label and ,union ,label4 #h4 ,it is sometimes more economical to decide on a particular color for a season4 ,one can1 as a rule1 wear one's clothes to more economical advantage and look better dressed by choosing a particular color than if one has a red dress1 a blue coat1 and a green dress for best4 ,the coat is probably worn with both dresses and may not look well4 #i4 ,remember1 if one has only a limited amount of money for clothes1 one should not try to buy the very latest fashions4 ,exaggerated styles live but a short time1 and some of us must wear our clothes for a long time1 until they are worn out4 ,if materials are good1 one can often have one's clothes remade1 by combination with a little new material of a contrasting kind4 ,a knowledge of textile materials and values will always help in selecting either ready-made clothing or materials4 #aj4 ,remember you must know about the things you wish to purchase4 ,clerks as a rule know very little about the goods they sell4 ,if you know1 you can make the dollars earned buy more than if you were ignorant4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adb4--;,it takes much thought to learn to buy intelligently4 ,what should you think about in buying materials8 ,here are some of the hints for purchasing wool and silk materials or garments which ,miss ,travers gave the ,pleasant ,valley girls4 ,talk them over with your teacher4 ,see if you agree4 #a4 ,garments made of wool and cotton mixed do not keep their shape as well as all wool4 ,if one can afford only wool and cotton1 the salesman should tell one in purchasing about their composition4 ,the mixture should be cheaper4 ,it is often sold for all wool at a higher price4 ,if one untwists the fibers of the material1 it is possible to detect cotton4 ,try at school on some ravelings of garment seams or other materials4 ,the burning test will help one to decide4 ,we shall learn some tests in our next lesson4 #b4 ,remember wool is an expensive fiber4 ,do not expect to get all wool for little money4 #c4 ,remember the weave affects wearing quality4 ,a close twill weave is often more durable than a basket weave4 ,do you remember your lessons about silk2 how it is grown and made by the little worm1 and how it is manufactured or spun into thread or woven into silk cloth8 ,in buying silk one must remember about its manufacture4 #a4 ,silk is seldom pure4 ,it is apt to be weighted4 ,if the silk feels heavy in the hand1 it does not always mean that it is a good piece of material and will wear2 it may be weighted with tin2 up to #cj per cent of tin is not harmful4 ,a softer1 pliable silk is not apt to be so weighted1 and will wear better4 ,soft silks so woven as to pull at the seams are not economical4 ,close weaves are better than loosely woven ones for wearing4 #b4 ,fray some of the threads of the cloth you wish to buy4 ,is it possible to break either the warp or woof easily8 ,if so1 the silk will split along either warp or filling and will not wear4 #c4 ,one should not expect to get bargains in silk4 ,cheap silk will not wear4 ,it is better to wear some other material4 ,is the material made of reeled silk or of spun silk8 ,you have learned the difference4 ,articles made of reeled silk are more expensive4 #d4 ,silk is sometimes adulterated with cotton or artificial silk and sold for all silk4 ,we shall learn some tests in our next lesson so we may discover too4 ,miss ,james talked over all these points with the ,pleasant ,valley girls and showed them some good and bad materials4 ,the girls decided to be on the lookout for these things4 ,will you8 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,bring to school garments or materials which have not worn well4 ,try to find out why4 ,your teacher will help4 #b4 ,write a composition about things to think about in purchasing a new winter suit ready-made4 ,if you must buy from a catalogue1 can you judge about the wearing qualities8 ,,lesson #f ,,learning ,,to ,,use ,,some ,,simple ,,textile ,,tests ,miss ,james and the girls of ,pleasant ,valley tried some simple tests for materials4 ,perhaps you would like to try them too8 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls became so interested in ,miss ,travers' talk about textiles and how difficult it is to buy intelligently that they decided to learn to judge materials and to study about adulterations4 ,how are clothing materials adulterated8 ,miss ,james told the girls that there are a number of ways of adulterating materials1 and that most women shoppers are so indifferent that manufacturers have been able to adulterate the materials of everyday use4 ,this increases the cost of living1 for materials do not wear so long4 ,miss ,james says that textiles should be labeled so we may know what we are buying4 ,some kind of adulterations are honest if the goods are so marked2 but1 when sold for something they are not1 the buyers are fooled4 ,the tests help one to know whether materials are adulterated or not4 ,let us learn first some of the methods generally used in adulterating1 and then some of the simple tests4 ,weighting is one method of adulterating4 ,this means that something else has been used beside the material4 ,in cotton and linen material1 sizing or starch is pressed in with the rolling in finishing4 ,after washing1 this material will be found to be very open in mesh instead of smooth4 ,notice some of the smooth linen table cloths before they are laundered4 ,afterwards you will notice they look quite coarse and have lost their smoothness4 ,sometimes glue or clay or gums are used instead of starch4 ,silk is often weighted in the finishing process with sugar and some with dyes and metals4 ,this is because silk has a property which enables it to absorb a great deal of moisture without changing its quality4 ,the manufacturer can buy salts and dyes for less than silk1 and so he often uses a large per cent of dye or metal in place of the gum washed out of the silk in manufacture4 ,one can seldom find to-day silks like our grandmothers used to use4 ,this is because people wish cheap silks2 the manufacturer cannot produce silks for little money1 as the raw fiber is so high2 and so he uses other things with silk to weight it4 ,materials are also adulterated by combination with other materials4 ,did you ever buy a handkerchief marked pure linen and discover it was a mixture of cotton and linen8 ,cotton is also used to adulterate woolen materials1 and sometimes silk materials2 pure silk so called1 is often artificial silk4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adc4--,one can sometimes test materials by burning4 ,adulteration is also practiced when made-over materials or waste is used to cheapen the cost4 ,we learned about this in studying about wool4 ,wool materials should be labeled so that the purchaser will know4 ,it is not fair to pay the price for an all-new wool material if shoddy and mungo and flocks1 which are all old wool and waste1 have been used4 ,the per cent of new wool should be told and the price made accordingly4 ,silk is sometimes sold as reeled silk when waste from cocoons which is called spun silk has been used for the woof or filling thread4 ,in finishing of materials1 adulteration is sometimes practiced4 ,in pressing cotton or linen1 a luster is given to the surface4 ,cotton can be made to appear like silk or like linen1 and is often sold for those fibers4 ,cotton can be napped in finishing and made to look woolly as in blankets or outing flannel1 but it is still only cotton4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #add4--,the microscope reveals many things4 ,how can clothing material be tested8 ,these are the simple tests which the ,pleasant ,valley girls learned3 ,for sizing4 ,this is easy to identify4 ,pick at the surface with your nail1 and the starch or sizing will easily come off4 ,hang a wet piece in the air and see how the gloss looks then4 ,this sizing often conceals defects in the cloth4 ,these can be seen if the material is thin1 by holding it against the light4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ade4--,the test for fading4 ,burning tests4 ,the girls unraveled the fibers which ,miss ,james gave them and tested wool1 silk1 cotton1 and linen4 ,they tried both warp and filling threads4 ,they burned them with a taper4 ,the animal threads 7which are they87 burned slowly1 charred1 and smelled like burned feathers4 ,silk burns to an ash1 except when weighted4 ,then it burns more slowly4 ,when very heavily weighted1 the flame does not burn readily and the form of the silk will remain4 ,the vegetable fibers1 cotton and linen1 burn quickly and with a flame4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adf4--,the test for shrinkage4 ,tests with microscope4 ,you have all seen the appearance of the fibers under the microscope4 ,this reveals many things1 and the unraveled fibers are easily identified4 ,the microscope is the only sure test for telling cotton and linen fibers4 ,one can sometimes discover shoddy mixed with the all-wool fiber because of the color4 ,shoddy is sometimes made of old colored woolen rags4 ,tests for fading4 ,pin a piece of cloth on a board with thumb tacks4 ,cover half with cardboard or heavy paper4 ,expose to the rays of sun for several days4 ,remove paper and notice difference4 ,a piece can also be exposed near bright light1 but not in sun's rays1 to see the effect under ordinary wear4 ,marjorie ,allen tested a piece of cashmere she was considering for a dress and decided not to buy it1 for it faded quickly near the bright light4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adg4--,the test for strength4 ,tests for strength4 ,try to break either warp or woof threads4 ,place the two thumbs together and press down on the cloth which should be held firmly in the hands4 ,try both sets of threads4 ,sometimes a weak warp or woof can be discovered4 ,tests for shrinkage4 ,barbara ,oakes had a white cotton dress last year which never seemed to stop shrinking4 ,sometimes we can test materials for shrinkage4 ,measure width and length of sample to be tested4 ,wash it in hot water and soap4 ,dry and measure again4 ,is it narrower and shorter8 ,in planning for cotton or woolen garments allowance should be made for shrinkage4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adh4--,the chemical tests show many things of use in judging materials4 ,chemical tests4 ,chemicals are used for identifying fibers4 ,have you learned in your eighth grade studies about acids and alkalies8 ,have you studied at all about chemicals8 ,it is possible to discover the composition of woven materials by testing them with chemicals4 ,this is because acids and alkalies affect vegetable and animal fibers in different ways4 ,look up the difference between acids and alkalies4 ,study with your teacher and try to discover some of the common food and cleaning materials which we use every day in our homes which are acid or alkali4 ,some of these teach us we should know what the soaps and washing powders which we use will do to our clothes4 ,your teacher will provide some chemicals for testing4 ,it is easier to test samples of cloth if they are fringed at the edges4 ,here are directions for some chemical tests3 #a4 ,place a piece of white cotton cloth and a piece of woolen material in small dishes4 ,cover with #ej per cent solution of nitric acid4 ,the wool fibers will turn yellow4 ,the cotton remain white4 ,if a piece of wool cloth was mixed with cotton1 how would the test prove it8 #b4 ,boil samples of cotton and wool together2 then samples of cotton and silk together1 for fifteen minutes in a #e per cent solution of caustic potash4 ,the animal fibers will dissolve1 the cotton will remain4 ,of what use would this test be8 #c4 ,moisten samples of cotton and of wool with ,millon's reagent4 ,place in porcelain dishes and heat gently4 ,the animal fibers will become red2 the vegetable are unchanged4 #d4 ,material made of cotton and linen and sold for all linen can be tested4 ,place fringed sample in a porcelain dish4 ,heat gently in #ej per cent solution of caustic potash for two minutes4 ,remove with glass rod and dry between blotting papers4 ,the linen will be dark yellow in color and the cotton white or light yellow4 ,so we have learned a few tests of different kinds4 ,there are many more4 ,when you go to high school you can learn about others4 ,the ,pleasant ,valley girls enjoyed making these tests with ,miss ,james' help4 ,perhaps you may be able to try them with your teacher4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,try the above chemical tests with your teacher's help4 #b4 ,try some of the other tests for adulterations4 #c4 ,tell four ways in which materials are adulterated4 ,,lesson #g ,,how ,,pattern ,,is ,,made ,,in ,,cloth ,barbara said she never could quite see how pattern is made in cloth4 ,there seem to be so many different kinds of patterns4 ,miss ,james explained about this4 ,she said there are several ways of making patterns4 ,some are printed2 others woven2 some embroidered4 ,have you discovered this8 ,patterns are often woven4 ,do you remember1 when you studied about linen1 you learned that the ,jacquard loom has a series of cards above it which are able to control the pattern8 ,wonderful silks and beautiful velvets and brocades as well as damask table linen are made in this way by weaving4 ,patterns of stripes and plaids are also made by the loom in weaving4 ,sometimes the warp or the filling threads are colored2 and this color forms patterns in stripes or squares4 ,see if you have any pieces in your surprise box in which pattern is made by colored threads of warp or woof4 ,try to find some woven patterns made by the ,jacquard loom in silk or linen4 ,think of all the beautiful ribbons1 silks1 tablecloth damasks1 towels1 and napkins2 all such patterns are woven by the loom4 ,plain patterns like basket weave1 twill1 diagonal1 satin weave1 are also made by weaving4 ,see if you can work out some of these patterns on your school loom4 ,some patterns are printed4 ,on the plain woven material1 patterns are printed by means of rollers on which the pattern has been stamped4 ,the colors are put on by this roller4 ,the picture shows the machine4 ,did you ever have a calico apron or dress of percale or cambric on which the pattern showed on one side only8 ,many ribbons are printed with a pattern1 but sometimes patterns are put on both sides of the cloth4 ,again1 printing is sometimes done on the warp threads before the filling thread is woven in4 ,this makes a dull effect in pattern4 ,miss ,james had a piece of ribbon which was so printed4 ,when it was ravelled out a little1 the printed warp could be seen4 ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,cheney ,bros4 ,,fig4 #adi4--,printing cloth by machinery4 ,did you ever see a foulard silk dress with white spots8 ,do you know how they are made8 ,there are two4 methods4 ,one is called resist1 and the other discharge4 ,the first method1 resist1 is easy to understand4 ,the material is printed before it is dyed4 ,the spots are printed with a chemical which resists the dye when it is put in the dye bath4 ,so the cloth comes out of the dye with white spots where the chemical was stamped4 ,the discharge method is just the opposite4 ,the cloth is dyed blue or black or whatever the color is to be1 and then it is passed between rollers something like your wringing machine and the color is taken out in spots by chemicals4 ,sometimes1 when the chemicals are too strong or cheap1 they eat the cloth4 ,jane ,alden's cousin had a dress from which the white spots fell out1 leaving holes4 ,patterns are sometimes printed on cloth by means of wood blocks or stencils4 ,perhaps you can do some printing on plain cloth4 ,you can make a stencil pattern4 ,cut out the design in it and paint through the holes1 or cut a design from a piece of wood1 dip it in color1 and print the cloth4 ,lovely materials are made by hand in this way4 ,miss ,james has a beautiful ,english piece of ,morris block printing which she values highly4 ,many patterns are embroidered4 ,look in the piece box4 ,sometimes embroidered designs are worked on cloth by hand1 but many are made by machine4 ,miss ,james has a scarf which came from ,india4 ,it is embroidered in gold with little bits of glass sewed on the right side1 and held by the embroidery4 ,this is all hand work4 ,miss ,james has a waist with little spots of white embroidered in silk4 ,this is done by machine on a loom4 ,find some piece of material embroidered by machine4 ,so ,barbara ,oakes now understands about the patterns4 ,miss ,james had some books to show the girls1 too4 ,they looked up in the encyclopedia about printing of materials and about the other things they wished to know about patterns4 ,barbara says to her the most wonderful thing is the way in which the warp threads of the loom can be controlled by the ,jacquard pattern cards and other devices4 ,the shed of the warp as it is raised for each filling thread is governed by the devices1 and a different set of threads bobs up for each shuttle throw4 ,,exercises ,,and ,,problems #a4 ,mount on strips of cardboard1 samples of material made3 a4 ,by weaving1 plain1 stripes1 diagonal1 etc4 b4 ,by printing1 resist1 discharge1 machine1 block1 stencil2 c4 ,by embroidery4 #b4 ,look up in the encyclopedia or other books the subject of cotton printing4 #c4 ,try to find pictures of modern looms and more primitive ones in which pattern is controlled by the harness which raises the warp threads and makes the so-called shed4 ,,review ,,problems ,i4 ,look over the fashion pages of your magazines at home and find3 #a4 ,a young woman suitably dressed for business4 #b4 ,a girl dressed for outdoor sports4 #c4 ,a girl in a party gown4 ,tell why you think each is well dressed4 ,if not1 why8 ,,ii4 ,what textile tests would you suggest when buying a silk dress4 ,mrs4 ,stark expects to have one next summer4 ,how will she be able to judge if it will wear8 ,,iii4 ,can you make another middy at home4 ,perhaps you are so expert you can take an order for one4 ,,the ,,ellen ,h4 ,,richards ,,house ,illustration3 ,courtesy of ,mr4 ,r4 ,j4 ,planten4 ,,fig4 #aej4--,the ,ellen ,h4 ,richards house4 ,you will be glad to know that all the townspeople in ,pleasant ,valley were delighted with the year's work in homemaking in the new schoolhouse4 ,mr4 ,roberts1 the ,president of the ,pleasant ,valley ,bank1 was so pleased with the results both at school and in the homes of the valley that he gave the house that you see in the picture 7,fig4 #aej71 to be used for homemaking work by the girls1 and for the boys' clubs as well4 ,the house was named for ,mrs4 ,ellen ,h4 ,richards1 the great and good woman who lived in ,boston1 ,massachusetts1 but whose friends are found all over the world1 and who helped to develop the teaching of home economics everywhere4 ,what are some of the facts about clothing and health that a girl may learn1 useful to herself and her family8 ,this is the question at the beginning of the first chapter4 ,do you not think that you can all give an answer to this question now8 ,and would you not like to write a composition about it8 ,perhaps your teacher will have a gathering at the school of all the fathers and mothers2 and maybe one of you can write a little play or pageant connected in some way with household arts for this closing party of the school year4 ,perhaps you are able now to design your costumes and make some of your garments or1 at least1 to select them more wisely4 ,and where is ,pleasant ,valley8 ,perhaps you asked this question when you looked at the picture on one of the first pages4 ,pleasant ,valley is your own home town2 and1 though it has really quite another name1 it may still be ,pleasant ,rivers1 or ,pleasant ,hill1 or ,pleasant ,fields1 or ,pleasant ,plain4 ,why not8 ,in this wide country of ours there are many forms of natural beauty2 and even in the dry sections1 where trees are grown with difficulty1 there are still the far reaches of the plains and the beautiful effects of cloud1 sunrise1 and sunset4 ,if our own town is ugly and unhealthy1 it is not ,nature's fault2 for the beauty and home-likeness and the healthfulness of any place depend upon its inhabitants4 ,even the simplest and plainest village or countryside has one kind of beauty if it is kept perfectly clean1 and it costs but little money in many places to plant trees and shrubs and keep the grass green4 ,you must see1 however1 that it is something more than beauty in the things about us that we have been studying together4 ,you boys and girls in your school are to be the men and women who will make the homes and the town the best possible places for successful and happy living4 ,do you realize what it means to be citizens of a great commonwealth like this of our ,united ,states8 ,do you understand the meaning of the word commonwealth8 ,it is a good old word that means a land where all the people share everything alike and work together for the good of all4 ,we cannot succeed in doing this unless we begin in our home and in our home town4 ,more and more must our country stand for democracy for ourselves and for the whole world1 and you must bring to the problems of the future1 bodies strong and clean1 and strong hearts and minds4 ,,index ,adulteration3 by combination1 #bhj4 by weighting1 #bgi4 in finishing1 #bha4 ,albatross1 #baj4 ,alpaca1 #bac4 ,ammonium phosphate for outing flannel1 #i4 ,aniline dyes1 #acd4 ,apparel3 choosing1 #bdb4 ,apron3 attaching the yoke1 #cg-ci4 basting skirt part1 #cc4 cutting skirt part1 #ca4 cutting yoke part1 #cc4 gathering top of1 #cf4 hemming sides and bottom1 #cf4 material for1 #g4 planning pattern for yoke1 #cb4 planning to make1 #ca-cc4 sewing seams of1 #cd-cf4 the sewing1 #abg1 #abh4 useful1 #abi4 ,artistic appreciation in dress1 #bed-bee4 ,attaching an apron yoke1 #ch4 ,basting3 corset cover1 #ajf4 gores of petticoat1 #ajd4 hemmed patch1 #agc4 skirt of apron1 #cc4 stitch1 #bj4 ,bathing1 #ia4 ,bean bags1 making1 #bi4 ,bean bag board1 #bi4 ,bean bag game1 #bi1 #cj4 ,bias bands1 to finish1 #ii4 ,bias strip1 cutting and placing1 #bd-be4 ,birdseye1 #fb1 #ahc4 ,blankets1 #bad4 ,blanket stitch3 how to make1 #ach4 uses of1 #dd1 #ach1 #ada4 ,bleaching linen cloth1 #aie4 ,bloomers3 bands for1 #bag4 making1 #bae-bag4 material to use for1 #bjb4 pattern for1 #bja4 ,bluing1 #aij4 ,bobbin1 #fg1 #fh4 ,boiling linen1 #aij4 ,brilliantine1 #bac4 ,broadcloth1 #baa4 ,brocaded satin1 #abd4 ,brushing clothes1 #aeg4 ,bunting1 #bac4 ,butchers' linen1 #ahc4 ,button1 sewing on1 #de4 ,buttonhole3 fan and bar ends1 #dc4 finishing1 #dd4 overcasting1 #da1 #db4 placing1 #dj4 practice in making1 #ci4 stitch1 #db1 #dc4 turning corner1 #dc4 ,buying3 garments1 #bga-bgh4 materials1 #bgf-bgh4 points about1 #aig-aii4 ,calico1 #g4 ,cambric1 #fj4 ,canton flannel1 #h4 ,carding3 by hand1 #gf-gg4 cotton1 #gb1 #gd4 wool1 #bbb-bbd4 ,caring for clothes1 #aee-agd4 ,carpets1 #bad4 ,cashmere1 #baj4 ,catch stitch1 how to make1 #aej-aeb4 ,chain stitch1 #aai4 ,challis1 #baj4 ,chambray1 #g4 ,cheesecloth1 use of1 #i4 ,cheviot1 #bji4 ,chiffon1 #abe4 ,china silk1 #abe4 ,chintz1 use of1 #i4 ,cleanliness of body1 #hi-ib4 ,cloth3 how made1 #gd-gf1 #acb-acg1 #aia-aif1 #bah-bbd4 how pattern is made in1 #bhe4 ,clothes3 appropriate1 #bea4 brushing1 #aeg4 care of1 #aee-afc4 choosing and wearing1 #bdi1 #bej4 removing stains and spots from1 #aeh4 things to learn about caring for1 #aef4 why important1 #c4 ,clothespin bag1 #adi-aeb4 ,clothing3 budget1 #bcj-bcf4 color for1 #bef-bei4 expense of for a year1 #bcj4 for body at night1 #hi-ib4 helps save body heat1 #ia4 important things about wearing1 #bdb4 night1 aired during day1 #ij4 points about buying1 #bbi4 ready-made1 #bga-bgb4 relation to health1 #bdj-bdh4 selecting healthful1 #bdd4 several layers of1 warmer than one thick layer1 #ib4 things to think about in choosing1 #bdb4 what to do with1 at night1 #hi4 what to remember1 in purchasing wool1 #bbd-bbi4 why air at night1 #hi4 why changed at night1 #ij-ib4 why we wear1 #bda4 ,clothing budget1 #bcj-bcf4 ,cluny lace1 #ic4 ,cocoons1 grown for silk1 #aji-aad4 ,colored silks1 #acc4 ,colors3 choice of1 #bef-bfj4 for clothing1 #bef4 for a hat1 #bff4 grayed1 #bef-beg4 intensity of1 #beg4 learning to combine1 #bei-bfj4 to bring out one's characteristics1 #bef-beh4 ,commercial pattern1 how to use1 #df-ec4 ,consumer's ,league1 #bge4 ,corsets1 #bde4 ,corset cover3 how to make1 #ajf4 material for1 #ajf4 nainsook for1 #aje4 ,corticelli cocoons1 #aac4 ,costume3 a background1 #bec4 a work of art1 #beb4 artistic1 #bed-bee4 studying lines of1 #bfa4 ,cotton3 baled and shipped1 #af4 carding1 #gb1 #gd4 fibers1 #g1 #ad4 how grown1 #ab4 how spun1 #gd1 #ge4 loom for weaving1 #ff4 picking1 #ac4 seeds taken from fiber1 #a4 spinning1 #gb-gg4 use of1 #fe4 use of seeds1 #ae4 varieties of1 #ag4 weaving1 #ff-ga4 where grown1 #aa-ab4 ,cotton cloth1 how woven1 #ff-ga4 ,cotton crpe1 #fj4 ,cotton fibers1 magnified1 #ad4 ,cotton flannel1 varieties of1 #h4 ,cotton ginning1 #ae4 ,cotton materials1 #g-aj1 #ei-fb1 #aja4 ,cotton plant1 #ab4 ,cousin ,ann3 her clothes budget1 #bcj-bcf4 how she cares for her clothes1 #aef-afc1 #bdi4 what she learned about dress1 #bea-bef4 what she told about silk1 #acc-acg4 ,covert cloth1 #baa4 ,crpe de ,chine1 #abc4 ,cretonne1 use of1 #i4 ,crinoline1 use of1 #i4 ,cross-stitch3 design for1 #add4 gifts made from1 #adf4 how to make1 #add1 #ade4 use of1 #adc-adf4 ,damask1 #ahc4 ,darning1 straight tears1 #afc-aff4 ,darning stitch3 for stockings1 #afg-afi4 for straight tears1 #afc1 #aff4 how made1 #aeb-aec4 where to use1 #aff4 ,decorating1 stitches used for1 #aah-aba4 7,see also ,embroidery stitches47 ,denims1 #h1 #aj4 ,dimity1 #fj4 ,dress3 artistic appreciation in1 #bed-bee4 colors for1 #beh4 personal characteristics in relation to1 #bef-beg4 spacing and arrangement of lines1 #bee4 use of colors1 #bee4 ,dress ,skirt3 laying and cutting pattern1 #bch4 making1 #bch-bci4 pattern for1 #bcf-bch4 ,duck1 #fa4 ,dyeing silk1 #acd-ace4 ,ellen ,h4 ,richards ,house1 #bia4 ,embroidery stitches3 blanket stitch1 #ach-ada4 catch stitch1 #aej-aeb4 chain stitch1 #aai4 cross-stitch1 #adc-adf4 featherstitch1 #aai1 #abj1 #abi1 #acj4 outline stitch1 #aba4 ,embroidered patterns1 #bhh4 ,etamine1 #bac4 ,eyelets1 #bgj4 ,factory1 silk1 #acg4 ,featherstitch3 how made1 #aai1 #abj4 use for1 #abi1 #acj4 ,felt1 #bab4 ,fibers3 cotton1 #g1 #ad4 flax1 #ahj4 silk1 #aaa1 #acb4 wool1 #bje-bjg1 #bbf4 ,filling thread1 #ff4 ,flannel1 #bab4 ,flat felled seam1 #baf4 ,flax3 breaking1 #agi4 combing and spinning1 #aia4 cultivation an ancient industry1 #ahj-aha4 fiber1 #f1 #ahj4 hackling1 #aic4 how grown1 #agf4 rippling and retting1 #agg-agi4 rippling by hand1 #agh4 rovings1 #aic4 seeds1 #ahd4 what is the1 plant1 #age4 wheel1 #gf1 #aib4 where grown1 #age4 ,flocks1 #bbh4 ,folding table linen1 #aij4 ,foulard silk1 #abc4 ,free-hand pattern1 #df4 ,french seam3 how to make1 #hg-hh4 use of1 #hf-hh4 ,galatea1 #fb4 ,garments3 buying1 #bga1 #bgh4 criticize your own1 #bea4 points to consider in buying ready-made1 #bgb-bgf4 ,gauge1 for hem1 #cf4 ,german ,val1 #id-ig4 ,gifts3 aprons1 #abi4 bag1 #abg4 clothespin bag1 #adi-aeb4 darning-case1 #aag4 guest towel1 #adf4 needle book1 #aag4 pin-case1 #aaf1 #aag4 sewing apron1 #abg4 sewing-case1 #aah4 spool-case1 #aag4 useful cases1 #acj4 ,gingham1 #g1 #aj4 ,grenadine1 #bac4 ,guest towel1 #adf4 ,hair1 care of1 #bfb-bfd4 ,hamburg edging1 #aja1 #ajc4 ,handkerchief1 linen1 #ahb4 ,handmade garments1 #eg-eh4 ,hanging table linen1 #aij4 ,hat becoming1 #bff-bfg4 color1 #bff4 how to wear1 #bfg4 selecting1 #bfb4 shape and lines of1 #bfd-bfe4 trimming for1 #bfg4 ,health3 clothing in relation to1 #bdj-bdh4 underwear effects1 #bde-bdg4 ,heels1 #afb4 ,hem3 gauge for1 #cf4 making on nightdress1 #hh4 turning around neck of nightdress1 #ih4 ,hemmed patch1 how to make1 #aga1 #agd4 ,hemming stitch3 for hemmed patch1 #aga4 how made1 #ai-bb4 why useful1 #ai4 ,hemstitch3 different from hemming stitch1 #adg4 how to make1 #adg-adh4 ,henrietta1 #baj4 ,herringbone stitch1 #aej4 ,herringbone weave1 #adi4 ,holder3 finishing1 #bg4 planning1 cutting1 and basting1 #bd4 ,homespun1 #baj4 ,huckaback1 #fb1 #ahc4 ,indian head1 #fa4 ,ironing1 #ahi1 #aij4 ,jacquard ,loom1 #abd4 ,javelle water1 #ahg4 ,kimono night dress1 #fd4 ,knitting machine1 #afg4 ,lace3 cluny1 #ic4 ,german ,val1 #id1 #if4 kinds of1 #ic1 #if4 made by hand1 #if4 names and retail prices of1 #id-ie4 other ways to finish instead of using1 #ig4 sewing on1 #ig-ii4 torchon1 #ic1 #ie4 valenciennes1 #id1 #ig4 ,lady's cloth1 #baa4 ,latest style1 #bea4 ,lawn1 #fa4 ,linen3 bleaching1 cloth1 #aie4 finishing1 cloth for shipping1 #aie4 kinds of1 #ahb-ahd4 manufacture of1 #aia-aif4 weaving1 #aid4 where grown1 #age4 7,see ,flax47 ,linen canvas1 #ahc4 ,linen laces1 #ic1 #if4 ,linen materials3 adulteration in1 #bhj4 how identified1 #aha-ahb4 kinds of1 #ahb-ahc4 ,linen sheeting1 #ahb4 ,linens3 how to wash and iron1 #ahh-aij4 points to be noticed in buying1 #aif-aii4 ,linseed oil1 #ahd4 ,loom3 for weaving cotton1 #ff-fh4 hand1 #fg1 #gj1 #ga4 in days gone by1 #fh4 in factory1 #fi4 ,jacquard1 #abd4 primitive1 #fh1 #ga4 ,luna moth1 #aaa4 ,materials3 adulterated1 #bgi1 #bhj4 buying1 #bgf-bgh4 for apron1 #ca4 for bloomers1 #bjb4 for underwear1 #aja1 #ajf4 from cotton1 #g-aj4 from wool1 #bji-bad4 linen1 #ahb-ahd4 silk1 #abc-abf4 weighted1 #bgi4 ,measurements3 how to take1 #di-ej4 ,melton1 #baa4 ,middy blouse1 how to make1 #bfh-bga4 ,mohair1 #bac4 ,moire silk1 #abe4 ,mull1 #fa4 ,muslin1 #ei4 ,nainsook1 #ei4 ,nightdress3 cutting1 #gh4 french-seam1 #hf-hi4 making hem of1 #hh4 material for1 #fc4 placing pattern1 #gh4 trimming1 #ih4 ,nun's veiling1 #bab4 ,organzine1 #acc4 ,outing flannel1 #i4 ,outline stitch1 #aba4 ,overcasting buttonhole1 #da1 #db4 ,overhanding stitch1 #bh-cj4 ,pageant1 #bjj4 ,parts of sewing machine1 #hj-hc4 ,patch 7,see ,hemmed patch74 ,pattern3 embroidered1 #bhh4 for bloomers1 #bja4 for petticoat1 #ajb4 how made in cloth1 #bhe4 how woven1 #bhe4 laying for bloomers1 #bae4 laying nightdress1 #gi4 opening and reading1 #dg-dh4 opening and studying1 #bja4 printed1 #bhf4 sending for1 #dg4 to change1 #ea4 to lengthen1 #ea4 ,percales1 #g1 #aj4 ,petticoat3 learning to make1 #ajc-aje4 making1 for children1 #ec-ee4 material for1 #aja1 #ajb4 pattern for1 #ajb4 planning and cutting1 #dh-eb4 ,pincase1 #aaf-aah4 ,placket1 #aje4 ,pongee1 #abe4 ,porch cushion1 #adj-ada4 ,pressing suits1 and skirts1 #aeg4 ,printing cloth1 #bhg4 ,protecting clothes1 #afa4 ,raw silk1 #aae4 ,removing stains and spots1 #aeh1 #ahe-ahi4 ,rinsing1 #aij4 ,rubbers1 #afb4 ,ruffle1 making for petticoat1 #ajd4 ,running and backstitch1 #cd4 ,running stitch1 #afe1 #afh1 #afi4 ,russian crash1 #aci1 #ahb4 ,samplers1 #adc4 ,samples for toweling1 #f4 ,satin1 #abc4 ,scalloped edge1 #adb4 ,seams1 sewing with running and backstitch1 #ce4 ,serge1 #bji4 ,sewing1 an art1 #c4 ,sewing apron1 #abg-abi4 ,sewing case1 #aah4 ,sewing machine3 how to regulate1 #hc4 how to run1 #hd-hf4 how to thread1 #hd-hf4 invented1 #ha4 kinds of1 #ha4 parts of1 #ha-hc4 things to remember about stitching with1 #he4 ,sewing on lace insertion or edging1 #ig4 ,shearing sheep1 #bjd-bjf4 ,shears1 #bje4 ,sheep1 #bjd4 ,sheep industry1 #bje4 ,shoes3 buying1 #bdc4 care of1 #afb4 ,shuttle1 #fg-fh4 ,silhouette1 #bed1 #bee1 #bfa4 ,silk3 cocoons grown for1 #aab4 dyeing1 #acc-ace4 fibers1 #aaa1 #acb4 how produced1 #aji4 kinds of1 #abb-abf4 moths1 #aji4 names of1 #abb-abf4 raw1 #aad-aae4 reeling1 #aad4 throwing1 #acb-acc4 weaving by hand1 #acf-acg4 weighting1 #ace1 #bgi-bhj4 where manufactured1 #aca4 winding1 #acc4 ,silk-scraps1 articles made from1 #aaf-abb4 ,silkworm3 life story of1 #aji-aab4 where grown1 #aaj4 ,sizing3 test for1 #bha4 ,skirt pattern1 #dg4 ,skirts3 changing and lengthening pattern for1 #ej1 #ea4 pressing1 #aeg4 to cut1 #ea1 #eb4 to make1 #ec-ee4 ,soap bark1 #aeh4 ,soap solution1 #aeh4 ,spinning1 method of3 in modern factory1 #gc1 #bbg4 primitive1 #ga4 ,spinning3 cotton1 #gb-gg4 flax1 #aia-aid4 silk 7,see silk throwing74 wool1 #bbe-bbh4 ,spinning wheel3 for flax1 #ge4 for wool1 #gd4 ,sprinkling linen1 #aij4 ,stains3 blood1 #ahg4 coffee1 #ahf4 fruit1 #ahf4 grass1 #ahg4 how removed1 #ahe4 ink1 #ahg4 tea1 #ahf4 when to be removed1 #ahe4 ,stitches for decorating1 #aah-abj4 7,see ,embroidery stitches47 ,stitching stitch3 making1 #be-bf4 other uses of1 #bg4 use of1 #bc4 ,stockinet1 #afg4 ,stockings3 darning1 #afg-afi4 how made1 #afg4 kind to buy1 #agj4 sewing rips in1 #agj4 ,studying lines1 #bfa4 ,studying values1 #bee1 #beg1 #bei4 ,suits1 pressing1 #aeg4 ,table runner1 #aci4 ,taffeta1 #abb4 ,tears1 learning to darn1 #afc-aff4 ,textiles3 for apron1 #g1 #h4 weighted1 #bgi4 ,textile sample books1 #h4 ,textile surprise book1 #aj4 ,textile surprise box1 opening1 #eh4 ,textile test3 burning1 #bhb4 chemical1 #bhd4 for combination1 #bhj4 for fading1 #bhc4 for finishing1 #bha4 for shrinkage1 #bhd4 for sizing1 #bha4 for strength1 #bhc4 with microscope1 #bhb4 ,threading and running a machine1 #hd-hf4 ,ticking1 #aj1 #adi4 ,torchon lace1 #ic1 #ie4 ,toweling1 material for1 #f4 ,towels1 material for1 #f-g4 ,tram1 #acc4 ,tweed1 #baj4 ,underwear3 cotton material for1 #aja4 relation to health1 #bde-bdg4 ,uses of lace1 #ic-ig4 ,valenciennes lace1 #id1 #if4 ,velvet1 #abe4 ,voile1 #bab4 ,warp thread1 #fg-fh4 ,washing and ironing1 the process for1 #ahi-aij4 ,weaving3 by hand1 with simple loom1 #fg4 cotton1 #fi4 in modern factory1 #fi4 ,japanese girl1 #fi-gj1 #acf4 linen1 #aid4 patterns in cloth1 #bhe4 silk1 #abd1 #acf-acg wool1 #bbf-bbh4 ,well-dressed1 what it means to be1 #bej-bee4 ,white petticoat1 #aja-ajb4 ,wool3 blended1 #bba4 carder1 #bbc4 carding1 #bbb4 carding by hand1 #gf-gg4 fibers1 #bje1 #bbf4 how made into cloth1 #bah-bbh4 material made from1 #bji-bae4 sheared from sheep1 #bjf4 sorted1 #bah4 spinning1 #bbe-bbh4 quality of1 #bjg4 variety of fibers1 #bjg4 washing or scouring1 #bbj4 where grown1 #bjc-bjd4 why it varies1 #bjh4 ,wool clothing1 facts to remember about purchasing1 #bbd-bbi4 ,woolen garments3 points about buying1 #bbi4 washing1 #aeh4 ,wool ,voile1 #bac4 ,woolen yarns1 #bbe4 ,workbag1 #abg4 ,worsted yarns1 #bbe4 ,yarn3 spinning of cotton into1 #gb-gg4 woolen and worsted1 #bbe4 ,yoke3 attaching1 #ch4 cutting1 apron1 #cc4 making for apron1 #cg4 placing the lining1 #ci4 planning pattern for apron1 #cb4 ,printed in the ,united ,states of ,america4 99 99 99 99 99 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,transcriber notes3 ,p4#bdb4 #e4 changed to '#c44 ,p4#bfb4 'characterisics' changed to 'characteristics'4 ,various punctuation fixed4 ,note3 ,the equals sign is used to surround bold text2 underscores to surround italic text4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------