,transcrib]'s ,note3 ,italic text is repres5t$ by und]scores4 ,small capitals 9 ! orig9al h be5 conv]t$ to all capitals4 ,footnotes h be5 mov$ to ! end ( ! text4 ,a ,,treatise ,,on ,,hat-,,mak+ ,,& ,,felt+1 ,,includ+ ,a ,,full ,,exposition ,,( ,,! ,,s+ul> ,,prop]ties ,,( ,,fur1 ,,wool1 ,,& ,,hair4 ,,by ,,john ,,?omson1 ,a ,,practical ,,hatt]4 ,,philadelphia3 ,,h5ry ,,c>ey ,,baird1 ,,indu/rial ,,publi%]1 #djf ,walnut ,/reet4 ,,london3 ,e4 ,f4 ,n4 ,,spon1 #dh ,*>+ ,cross4 #ahfh4 ,ent]$ accord+ to ,act ( ,congress1 9 ! ye> #ahfh1 by ,,h5ry ,,c>ey ,,baird1 9 ! ,cl]k's ,(fice ( ! ,di/rict ,c\rt ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates 9 & = ! ,ea/]n ,di/rict ( ,p5nsylvania4 ,,philadelphia3 ,,coll9s1 ,,pr9t]1 #gje ,,jayne ,,/reet4 ,,cont5ts4 ,descriptions ( furs1 wools1 hairs1 c4 #aa ,! full+ mill #bd ,hi/ory ( hats & hatt+ #be ,! fa%ions #bh ,prep>ation ( mat]ials #bi ,/iff5+ & wat]-pro(+ mat]ials #ca ,! bl[+ ma*9e #ce ,! manufacture ( hats #cf ,%av+ #dd ,/iff5+ process #dd ,ruff+ or napp+ #de ,block+ #dg ,dye+ #dg ,pumic+ or p\nc+ #dh ,f9i%+ #di ,silk hatt+ #eb ,=m+ ma*9es #ef ,%oes & gait]s ( felt #fj ,pr9t]'s %eets #fa ,clo? hats #fc ,conclusion #fe ,,treatise ,,on ,,hat-,,mak+ ,,& ,,felt+4 ,x is conc$$ z an axiom1 t !ory & practice1 9 ! pursuit ( any object1 are 9 _! natures ess5tially diff]5t & di/9ct4 ,b at ! same "t !y long = a mutual und]/&+ ea* to confirm ! ass]tions ( ! o!r1 ! consummation ( all practical results be+ ! mutual embrace & p]fect reconciliation ( ^! two attributes4 ,! writ] ( ^! pages1 be+ a practical hatt]1 desires to describe intelligibly 8 call+1 disp5s+ ) all te*nical t]ms1 at ! same "t consci\s ( be+ liable to receive an unfair criticism f 8 bro!r tradesm51 al?\gh p]fectly innoc5t on _! "p1 result+ f ! prejudices eng5d]$ by ! _m w\ld-be secrets t p]ta9 to ! diff]5t "w-%ops1 toge!r ) _! v>i\s modes & me?ods ( work+1 all ( :i* mo/ g5]ally are b trifles m]ely to ga9 a "n4 ,! practice ( a trade )\t a k ( ! :y & ! :]e=e ( c]ta9 usages is a sad defect 9 any workman1 b m especially 9 c]ta9 trades3 ,hatt+ be+ "o ( ^? :i* dep5ds ^u second causes = its pr(ici5cy1 we v5ture "h an explanation ) p]fect confid5ce1 hop+ t ! frat]nity ( hatt]s w be indulg5t1 & t !y may pr(it by an exp]i5ce ( _m ye>s 9 ! trade1 & t = "o error or omission 9 ! writ+ ( ^! %eets !y w f9d comp5sation 9 ! new ideas t w spr+ f _! p]usal1 :i* may be an inc5tive to fur!r improvem5ts 9 ! bus9ess result+ b5eficially to all4 ,!ory )\t practice1 or practice )\t !ory1 is l grop+ 9 ! d>k1 & p]fection 9 no trade c be atta9$ till e effect c be trac$ to its cause1 & vice v]sa4 ,x is mu* to be regrett$ t practical op]ative workm5 are s diffid5t 9 writ+ & publi%+ _! exp]i5ce 9 _! sev]al trades & occupations1 quietly p]mitt+ !ori/s ignorant ( ! bus9ess to glean z be/ !y c f o!r p>ties ! mo/ intricate & complicat$ p>ticul>s ( a trade1 & h5ce ! attempt to illu/rate ! mo/ useful bran*es ( an art (t5 results 9 crude & ev5 errone\s descriptions ( ?+s ( ! greate/ mom5t1 & ! dissem9ation z correct1 ( t :i* is altoge!r at v>iance ) ! tru?4 ,9 confirmation ( ! above1 we may in/ance ! manufacture ( hats z describ$ 9 a "w ( mu* m]it1 & :i* is acc\nt$ z wor?y ( all confid5ce1 :]e9 ! error above spok5 ( is b too pla9ly visible4 ,?us1 9 ! supplem5t to ! ?ird edition ( t mo/ respectable "w ! ,ed9burgh ,encyclop$ia ,britannica1 9 ! article ,hat1 an apology is made = ! orig9al treatise ^u t subject1 x be+ ackn[l$g$ z bo? defective & errone\s f ! imp]fect s\rce ( ! in=mation4 ,su* a confession1 & f su* a s\rce1 suffici5tly exon]ates any "o f egotism 9 an attempt to write a m p]fect & correct description1 c\pl+ !ory ) practice2 reliev+ ! felt+ process f its mi/y obscurity by a fai?ful expose ( ! :ole sy/em3 well kn[+ t an increase ( bus9ess1 l free trade1 w be ! result ( a "r und]/&+ ( a =m]ly suppos$ my/]y1 viz41 ! ,true cause ( ,felt+4 ,felt & felt$ articles be+ already 9 use1 9 _m trades 9 addition to t ( hat-mak+1 necessitates a g5]al & inde$ a v full & lucid description ( ! mat]ials ( :i* !y are made4 ,descriptions ( ,furs1 ,wools1 ,hair1 c4 ,fur1 prop]ly speak+1 signifies ! sk9s ( v>i\s species ( animals1 dress$ 9 alum or "s o!r prep>ation ) ! hair on1 & made into articles ( we>+ app>el2 b ! t]m fur also signifies ! /uff t is cut f ! sk91 = ! use ( ! hatt]1 & 9 ?is s5se alone x w be employ$ 9 ! foll[+ pages4 ,hair1 wool1 fur1 & animal d[n are simply sl5d] filam5ts or ?read-l fibres issu+ out ( ! pores ( ! sk9s ( animals1 & all p>tak+ ( ! same g5]al nature1 su* z great ductility1 flexibility1 ela/icity1 & t5acity1 diff]+ entirely f ! vegetable wools & d[ns1 su* z cotton1 c41 :i* conta9 nei!r ( ^! f\r great *>act]i/ics to any valuable or appreciable ext5t4 ,to *>act]ize 9 a famili> way ^! sev]al grades ( mat]ial1 x may be said t fur is di/+ui%$ f wool by its great] f95ess & s(tness1 & hair f wool by its /raightness & /iffness4 ,! nature ( all ^! be>+ "s relation to ea* o!r1 x w be necess>y 9 ?is treatise to use ! ^w hair occasionally to designate "o & all ( !m1 t ^w be+ mo/ conv5i5t1 & t5d+ to avoid confusion4 ,simple z ! idea may be1 & ?\gh trifl+ 9 appe>ance1 yet ! /udy ( a s+le hair is p>ticul>ly int]e/+1 bo? to ! naturali/ & ! man ( bus9ess1 z w be se5 :5 we m5tion a few ( its _m peculi>ities2 hop+ x w prove a s\rce ( enjoym5t to ! "o & a pr(it to ! o!r4 ,hair1 wool1 fur1 c41 =m q an extrane\s app5dage to ! sk91 or body produc+ !m1 n at all directly dep5d5t on ! life ( ! animal = _! own exi/5ce1 = !y h be5 kn[n to live & gr[ = "s "t aft] ! dea? ( ! animal itself4 ,we also "k t !y live1 gr[1 & die1 %[+ all ! signs ( y\?1 maturity1 & old age4 ,hair possesses no s5sation at any p]iod ( its exi/5ce2 ( itself x has no feel+ ( t\*1 nor has x ! p[] ( volunt>y action4 ,! gr[? ( hair is peculi> z x projects & gr[s 9 l5g? f ! root1 & n by ! top z ) vegetable productions1 ! l[] portion l5g!ns out1 & ! top is m]ely project$ =w>d2 & :5 once cut1 x nev] aga9 resumes its tap]+ po9t4 ,hair or fur ( :atev] quality1 consi/s ( a s+le sl5d] filam5t1 )\t a bran* or knot ( any k9d1 & t filam5t is a tube1 :i* is fill$ ) a fat oil1 ! color ( ! hair be+ d]iv$ f ?is oil4 ,by ! *emical analysis ( hair x is f\nd to consi/ ( n9e diff]5t sub/ances3 #a/1 gelat9e or animal matt]1 :i* con/itutes its great] "p2 #b;d1 a :ite concrete oil 9 small quantity2 #c;d1 ano!r oil ( a grayi%-gre5 color m abundant1 ^! oils compris+ ab\t "o-f\r? ( ! entire weight2 #d?1 a few p>ticles ( oxide ( manganese2 #e?1 iron1 ! /ate ( :i* 9 ! hair is unkn[n2 #f?1 phosphate ( lime2 #g?1 c>bonate ( lime 9 v small quantity2 #h?1 silex 9 great] abundance2 #i?1 & la/ly1 a consid]able am\nt ( sulphur--su* is ! con/itution ( all furs1 wools1 hair1 c41 mo/ ( :i* may be dissolv$ 9 pure wat] heat$ to a temp]ature above #bcj ( ,fahr5heit1 by :i* x is p>tially decompos$4 ,hair is likewise soluble 9 alkalies1 ) :i* x =ms soap4 ,*lor9e gas imm$iately decomposes x1 produc+ a viscid mass4 ,x is wor?y ( p>ticul> rem>k1 t ( all animal products1 hair is ! "o lea/ liable to spontane\s *ange1 evid5ce ( :i* may be f\nd 9 ! fact t ! ,p]uvian1 ,mexican1 & ,brazilian mummy hair is /ill p]fect1 & is suppos$ to be f #bejj to #cjjj ye>s old1 & /&s ! hygrometric te/ ) equal firmness4 ,f ?is we %\ld suppose ! body or sub/ance ( hair & wool to be exce$+ly h>d & solid1 :i* is really ! case1 z no pressure has yet be5 appli$ suffici5tly p[]ful to entirely deprive wool ( ! wat] ) :i* x has be5 wa%$--! int]/ices betwe5 ! fibres ( ! assemblage nev] hav+ be5 clos$ by ! p[] appli$1 z ! wat] !re9 collect$ may /ill be dra9$ (f :5 ! pressure is remov$4 ,al?\gh hair is ( a tubul> con/ruction1 yet all v>ieties are n ( a completely cyl9drical =m2 a curl is ! result ( all flat-sid$ or oval hairs1 ! exce$+ oval be+ ! unfail+ *>act]i/ic ( ! negro race4 ,a cross section ( a hair1 if circul>1 d5otes ! long1 s(t1 & lank fibre ( a cold nor!rn animal2 b if ! cross section %[s an extreme flat-sid$ hair1 t hair w be crisp & frizzl$1 & ( a tropical extraction4 ,q a gradual *ange 9 ! =m ( ! fibre ( hair is obs]v$ 9 all animals z we asc5d f ! equator to ! highe/ latitudes1 o!r ?+s be+ equal4 ,x has long be5 a desid]atum h[ to discrim9ate betwe5 ! v>i\s qualities ( hatt]s' f9e furs1 & no really reliable te/ has yet be5 obta9$1 sup]ior to ! judgm5t ( ! human eye1 ! f95ess ( fibre = ! hatt] be+ ( mo/ ess5tial importance1 p>ticul>ly t allott$ = ! fl[+ nap ^u ! outside ( ! hat4 ,al?\gh ! ?ickness ( ! fibre ( ! f9] furs has nev] be5 prop]ly gaug$1 x w be a s\rce ( "s satisfaction to "k t ! diamet] ( ! human hair v>ies f ! #bej? to ! #fjj? "p ( an in*1 :ile ! fibre ( ! co>se/ wool is ab\t ! #ejj? & ! f9e/ ab\t ! #aejj? "p ( an in*4 ,hair may be blea*$ on ! grass l l951 aft] previ\s wa%+ & /eep+ 9 a blea*+ liquid1 aft] :i* x may be dy$ ( any color4 ,x is v d\btful :e!r ! gr[? ( hair c by any artificial means be exp$it$1 or ! hair itself increas$ 9 l5g?1 9 quality1 or 9 d5sity4 ,a f9e field ( ent]prise w\ld be op5$ = ! =tunate inv5tor :o c\ld increase ! produce ( ! f9] & m exp5sive furs4 ,9 contradi/9ction to ?is1 h[ev]1 x may be /at$ t ! inhabitants ( "s c\ntries1 ! ,malays1 = in/ance1 purposely de/roy _! hair by us+ quick-lime4 ,we come next to describe m9utely ano!r peculi>ity app]ta9+ to hair1 ^u :i* all felt+ or %r9k+ ( a fabric dep5ds2 t gr& secret t has be5 a my/]y 9 all ages1 until )9 a few ye>s1 or at be/ 0 only surmis$4 ,^u ?is prop]ty alone dep5ds ! :ole art ( hatt+ & ( felt mak+1 :e!r 9 %eets or o!rwise1 z well z ! full+ ( clo? & ! %r9k+ ( flannels1 & all articles ! mat]ial ( :i* is made ( wool1 hair1 or fur4 ,z _m bran*es ( bus9ess dep5d = _! success ^u ! non-%r9k+ quality ( _! goods1 a /udy ( ! felt+ pr9ciple becomes q appropriate & int]e/+ to ^? manufactur]s1 :il/ p]us+ t ( ! opposite4 ,pull$ wools1 r ?an cut or %orn wools1 mu/ always h ! pref]5ce ) ! "o class ( manufactur]s2 at ! same "t1 ! o!r class mu/ adh]e t5aci\sly to ^? :i* h be5 cut1 ! roots ( ! hair caus+ all ! diff]5ce1 = t rem>kable quality1 ! felt+ pr9ciple1 is ^u all ! same :e!r pull$ or cut4 ,a few famili> facts dep5d5t ^u ?is inh]5t felt+ quality ( hair w aid ! illu/ration4 ,:5 a hair is held by ! top1 x c be sev]$ ) a razor mu* m readily ?an if held by ! root4 ,aga91 a hair held by ! root1 & drawn ?r\gh betwe5 ! f+] & ?umb1 feels q smoo?1 b :5 held by ! top1 a r\gh & tremul\s motion is p]ceiv$4 ,aga91 place a hair ( ?ree or f\r in*es 9 l5g? by ! middle1 betwe5 ! f+] & ?umb1 & twirl x a few times1 :5 ! hair w be f\nd to proce$ t[>ds "o end1 z ! twirl+ & rubb+ are cont9u$1 & inv>iably advanc+ root end =emo/1 :i*ev] way ! hair is plac$ betwe5 ! f+]s4 ,if two hairs are us$ 9 ?is example1 lay ! root ( ! "o to ! top ( ! o!r1 _! respective motions w be d\bly disc]nible4 ,! cause ( all ^! s+ul>ities ( ! hair x is n[ design$ to expla91 :i* %all be done z explicitly & concisely z possible1 ) a few pro(s ( its a/oni%+ p[] 9 a collective capacity4 ,! above-m5tion$ ph5om5a are ! result ( t same long-hidd5 prop]ty1 & :i* is no?+ m ?an a c]ta9 clo?+ or cov]+1 entirely surr\nd+ ! /em ( e hair1 9 ! =m ( v m9ute scales1 s v m9ute1 inde$1 t x requires ! aid ( a v p[]ful microscope to enable ! behold] to disc]n !m1 & ev5 !n b fa9tly4 ,^! scales1 :i* cov] ?ickly e filam5t ( animal hair1 wool1 fur1 c41 are ?9 po9t$ lam9a1 q simil> to ! scales on a fi%1 & ov]lapp+ ea* o!r z d ! %+les or slates ^u a h\se4 ,?is /ate ( ! hair be+ und]/ood1 ! modus op]&i ( ! above examples may be ?us expla9$3 ,:5 ! hair 0 held by ! po9t1 x 0 easily cut by ! edge ( ! razor ent]+ "u ! scales2 b :5 held by ! root1 ! in/rum5t slipp$ smoo?ly ov] !m2 & ! hair t 0 drawn ?r\gh ! f+]s1 :5 held by ! po9t1 felt r\gh & tremul\s1 f ! jagg$ po9ts ( ! scales1 b smoo? :5 drawn 9 _! own direction4 ,! twirl+ ( ! hairs betwe5 ! f+] & ?umb1 result+ 9 _! travell+ motion1 0 on acc\nt ( ! po9ts ( ! scales cat*+ on ! f+]s1 9 ! act ( rubb+1 simil> to ! heads ( :eat or b>ley at h>ve/ "t :i* s*ool-boys put into ! sleeves ( _! coats1 & :i* are sure to come out at "s o!r extremity to t at :i* !y 7 put 91 caus$ by ! work+ ( ! boy's arm ^u ! jaggy be>d or awn ( ! b>ley head4 ,! task ( c\nt+ ! numb] ( ^! lam9a t clo! ! body ( ^! hairs1 mu/ h be5 bo? t$i\s & difficult1 f _! v m9ut5ess & pr(usion4 ,on a s+le filam5t ( m]9o wool1 z _m z #bdjj b>b$ scales1 l tee?1 project+ f ! c5tre /em1 h be5 c\nt$ 9 ! space ( "o in*4 ,on ,saxony wool !re 7 #bgjj1 :ile o!r wools 7 z l[ z #ahfj1 & none 7 f\nd to h s few z #ajjj to ! in*4 ,no vegetable wools :atev]1 su* z cotton1 c41 h any su* app5dage ^u _! fibres1 &1 consequ5tly1 cotton or cotton goods nev] %r9k 9 ! act ( wa%+1 z wooll5 goods d4 ,cotton1 !re=e1 nev] c become a suitable mat]ial = felt+ purposes1 e fibre be+ smoo? f end to end 9 ei!r direction1 & 9 contradi/9ction to fur1 :i*1 ?\gh equally smoo? z ! cotton 9 "o way1 rebels triumphantly :5 irritat$ 9 ! contr>y direction1 z already describ$4 ,me*anically speak+1 cotton is smoo?1 solid1 & triangul>1 :il/ wool is r\gh1 tubul>1 & cyl9drical4 ,! gr& cause ( t my/]i\s & curi\s op]ation call$ felt+1 full+1 %r9k+1 ?ick5+1 & solidify+ ( a fabric1 :e!r ( orig9al loose wool1 fur1 or o!r /uff1 or ( t spun into y>n & wov5 into clo?1 is ! pres5ce ( ^! scales4 ,till lately1 ! be/ op]ative hatt] & ! inve/igat+ philosoph] 7 equally at a loss to expla9 ^u :at pr9ciple su* effects 7 produc$4 ,take1 = in/ance1 a h&ful ( wet fur or wool1 :i* is m]ely an assemblage ( hairs2 squeeze & press x1 "w x a little 9 ! h&1 & !n obs]ve ! effect2 = imm$iately ^u press+ x a c]ta9 locomotion is !reby conf]r$ ^u e fibre ( t assemblage1 :i* is increas$ by e turn ( position t is giv5 to ! body ( wool4 ,! roll+ & press+ *ange ! position ( ea* fibre4 ,a friction is produc$ ^u e memb] compos+ ! mass2 a foot+ z x 7 is obta9$ f ! scales ( ea*1 & ! fur or wool be+ all b5t or curl$1 a progressive motion goes on1 int]lac+ ea* o!r 9 _! travels1 result+ 9 a compact1 d5se body1 :i* may well *all5ge ! goddesses ( bo? pati5ce & p]sev]ance to undo4 ,e hair has be5 travell+ 9 its own individual direction1 bor+1 w>p+1 grasp+1 hold+1 & twi/+ among/ its fell[s l a collection ( live worms4 ,! p[] ( comb9ation1 l ! fable ( ! bundle ( /icks1 is /rik+ly illu/rat$ 9 ! case ( ! hair1 :i* :5 view$ s+ly seems s v insignificant1 b collectively1 & :5 press$ by ! h& ( oppression1 h>d%ip1 & ill treatm5t1 !y comb9e & become /rong & defiant1 clasp+ ea* o!r 9 _! embrace1 t5aci\sly cl++ to ea* o!r ! m !y are tortur$1 z if !y 7 liv+ rational be+s1 consci\s ( _! innoc5ce1 & free f guilt4 ,/ock+s1 = in/ance1 t are knit ) s(t-spun wool1 = ! use ( :ale fi%]m5 9 nor!rn latitudes1 are l>ge en\gh1 :5 fir/ =m$1 to hold ! :ole man1 b are felt$ d[n to ! requir$ size 9 ! full+ mill1 :]e !y are batt]$1 toss$ ab\t1 & tortur$ to t degree t is requir$ by _! torm5tors4 ,! writ] has se5 a millful ( ^! /ock+s ^: sides 7 felt$ s firmly toge!r1 f a neglect ( ! workm5 to turn !m inside out1 9 due "t1 dur+ ! felt+ op]ation1 t a knife 0 requir$ to op5 !m1 & :i* actually fail$ 9 sev]al in/ances1 s firmly _h _! two sides gr[n toge!r2 common te>+ hav+ no effect :atev]1 ea* & e s+le hair _h embrac$ its neighbors1 & _! mutual action defi$ all attempts to op5 ^! /ock+s4,a ,!re are in/ances ( rum9at+ animals hav+ di$ f ! effect ( balls ( hair hav+ =m$ )9 _! /oma*s1 hair by hair hav+ accumulat$ :ile lick+ !mselves ) _! tongues4 ,^! balls are all f\nd to be z p]fectly felt$ z ! natural b5d ( ! sev]al hairs compos+ !m w\ld all[1 ! felt+ hav+ be5 accompli%$ by ! motions ( ! inte/9es ( ! animals4 ,! disgorg$ balls f ! /oma*s ( nocturnal f[ls are all ( ! same nature4 ,z has be5 said1 felt may be made ( any k9d ( animal fur1 wool1 or hair1 provid$ x be b5t1 crimp$1 or curl$1 = if /raight z a bri/le x w\ld "w out ( ! mass z readily z into x1 & lose itself 9 ! op]ator's h&s4 ,all mat]ials int5d$ = felt+ mu/ be cut f ! pelt or sk91 & n pull$1 = ! obvi\s reason t a pull$ hair inv>iably br+s ) x its root1 9 ! =m ( a button or bulb1 :i* w\ld greatly imp$e its progressive motion 9 ! act ( work+1 z ea* & e hair "u ! op]ation ( felt+ bores into & among/ ! o!r filam5ts ( ! fur compos+ ! mass1 root end =emo/1 a %>p po9t !re=e is obta9$ by cutt+4 ,?is rule is univ]sally & inv>iably adopt$ by all hat furri]s4 ,wool ( any great l5g? ( /aple1 aft] be+ c>d$1 is press$1 & ei!r clipp$1 cut1 or *opp$ into %ort] l5g?s1 :i* facilitates ! felt+ op]ation1 & improves ! solidity ( ! felt t is produc$4,b ,! v>i\s mat]ials mo/ us$ 9 hat-mak+ are ! furs ( ! beav]1 ! ott]1 ! rabbit1 ! h>e1 a species ( ! muskrat1 a species ( ! monkey1 a species ( ! seal1 & a few o!rs1 toge!r ) ,saxony & ,spani% wools & ! hair ( camels & goats4 ,num]\s z are ^! v>i\s names1 mo/ ( ! animals produce five or six diff]5t qualities ( /uff1 f p>ticul> p>ts ( ! same sk91 v>y+ greatly 9 price or value4 ,! f9e/ furs all come f ^? animals t inhabit ! colde/ climates1 & ! season ( ! ye> 9 :i* any ( !m are kill$ greatly influ5ces ! quality ( ! fur2 a summ] sk9 ( "s ( ^! animals be+ comp>atively valueless1 h[ev] excell5t x might be 9 ! w9t] season4 ,& :at is p>ticul>ly wor?y ( ! hatt]'s att5tion is1 t fur t has be5 kept "o or two ye>s1 aft] be+ cut f ! sk91 produces a bett] work+1 & a m solid article ( felt1 ?an fur f a newly-kill$ animal4 ,! lam9a ( su* fur seem to rise & erect !mselves ^u ! /em ( ! hair by be+ kept1 :i* may acc\nt = its bett] felt+ quality4 ,?is w\ld appe> to be confirm$ by ! well-kn[n fact t ! #e lb4 bags 9 :i* old fur /uffs h be5 kept are g5]ally bur/ op54 ,"o or two prop]ties peculi> to furs & wools may /ill be m5tion$1 z1 = in/ance1 all felt+1 by :atev] means accompli%$1 necessitates ei!r a damp or wet process ) ! aid ( heat1 & ! facility ( ?ick5+ or solidify+ is accel]at$ by ! application ( soap to ! mat]ial "u ! op]ation4 ,or ! wat] may be acidulat$ = ! same purpose ) a little sulphuric acid1 z ei!r ( ^! acts z a p5etrat+ solv5t ^u ! natural oil ( ! animal :i* /ill rema9s betwe5 ! /em & lam9a or scales ( ! hair1 ?us b>+ ! b>b$ po9ts ( ! cru/y scales1 ! bett] to cat* & hold _! grip ^u ea* o!r4 ,oil or grease1 on ! contr>y1 :5 appli$ directly ^u wool1 cov]s up ^! lam9a or scales1 !reby de/roy+ _! felt+ p[]1 z is well kn[n to all wool sp9n]s1 h[ev] little !y may und]/& ! real cause ( its be+ s1 fur!r ?an ! fact ( giv+ to x a smoo? glid+ effect1 s necess>y = ! object ( _! bus9ess4 ,x may be amus+1 :e!r true or n1 to "k t ! rude ,turcomans are said to dwell1 ev5 to ?is day1 9 t5ts cov]$ ) felt1 :i* !y make by tread+ ) _! feet ! raw mat]ial ( :i* x is made1 :il/ x lies ^u ! gr\nd1 ?us favor+ ! supposition t felt+ 0 inv5t$ prior to weav+4 ,h[ev]1 s f> z we c le>n1 a real sy/ematic me?od ( felt+ is comp>atively ( a late date1 & until )9 a few ye>s felt has be5 *iefly employ$ = hats & hats alone4 ,?is is1 h[ev]1 n[ b a bran* ( ! felt manufacture1 = plaids1 coats1 ve/s1 pants1 legg+s1 %oes1 gait]s1 slipp]s1 mitt5s1 & caps1 ! cov]+ ( /eam cyl9d]s & boil]s1 c>pets1 poli%+ cu%ions = jewell]s & m>ble cutt]s1 cov]+ = ! ro(s ( h\ses :i* is aft]w>ds wat]pro($1 z also l9+s ( wat]-tight comp>tm5ts 9 %ips & %ip %ea?+1 & ! cov]+ = ! blocks ( calico & o!r pr9t+1 c4 c41 are n[ made ( ?is mat]ial4 ,z ! nature ( hair & ! pr9ciple ^u :i* its felt+ prop]ty dep5ds become bett] kn[n1 ! manufacture ( felt w be /imulat$ & increas$1 & appli$ to _m purposes o!r ?an ^? above enum]at$1 & n imag9$ at ! pres5t "t4 ,! high price ( ! f9] furs1 result+ f ! indiscrim9ate de/ruction ( ! animals :i* produce !m1 =ms ! only apology = ! introduction ( an inf]ior mat]ial into ! body ( ! manufactur$ article4 ,cotton1 :i* is ( q a limb] nature1 is too pliable1 z inde$ are all vegetable products :5 mix$ ) fur4 ,!y lie dead )9 ! body ( ! mass1 & if ! labor be cont9u$ beyond a c]ta9 "t1 ! active pr9ciple ( ! fur w be se5 to h clung to itself1 leav+ ! cotton q expos$ on ! outside4 ,ev5 "u ! mo/ p]fect manipulation1 a mixture ( cotton1 f its want ( ela/icity1 w give a product :i* is to a correspond+ degree det]iorat$4 ,!re 0 a "t :5 beav] sk9s 7 b\ght f ! natives1 by ! ,hudson ,bay ,company1 at ! regul> price ( #ad sk9s = a gun1 #g = a pi/ol1 #b = a %irt or "o pair ( /ock+s1 #a = a comb1 or twelve ne$les1 c4 c41 less ?an ! hundr$? "p ( _! real value1 & all ! o!r fur-be>+ sk9s belong+ to t c\ntry 7 rat$ by t ( ! beav]4 ,! ,sci5tific ,am]ican ( ,new ,york = ,dec4 #ahei says t1 n mu* m ?an half a c5tury ago1 n a p\nd ( f9e wool 0 rais$ 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 9 ,great ,brita91 or 9 any o!r c\ntry except ,spa94 ,9 ! latt] c\ntry ! flocks 7 own$ exclusively by ! nobility1 or by ! ,cr[n4 ,9 #agid1 a small flock 0 s5t to ! ,elector ( ,saxony1 z a pres5t f ! ,k+ ( ,spa91 :5ce came ! entire product ( ,saxony wool n[ ( su* imm5se value4 ,9 #ahji1 dur+ ! second invasion ( ,spa9 by ! ,fr5*1 "s ( ! valuable cr[n flocks 7 sold to raise money4 ,! ,am]ican ,consul at ,lisbon1 ,mr4 ,j>vis1 pur*as$ f\rte5 hundr$ head1 & s5t !m to ?is c\ntry4 ,a portion ( ! pure unmix$ m]9o blood ( ^! flocks is to be f\nd 9 ,v]mont at ?is "t4 ,su* 0 ! orig9 ( ! imm5se flocks ( f9e wooll$ %eep 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,! same au?ority fur!r adds t ! simple/ & mo/ easy me?od ( judg+ ( ! quality ( wools1 is1 to take a lock f a %eep's back & place x ^u an in* rule2 if y c c\nt f #cj to #cc ( ! spirals or folds 9 ! space ( an in*1 x equals 9 quality ! f9e/ ,saxony wool gr[n4 ,( c\rse z ! numb] ( spirals to ! in* dim9i%es1 ! quality ( ! wool becomes relatively inf]ior4 ,cotswold wool1 & "s o!r inf]ior wools1 d n measure m ?an n9e spirals to ! in*4 ,! ,full+ ,mill4 ,hav+ allud$ to ! full+ mill z a felt+ ma*9e1 x is only necess>y to rem>k "h1 t x is a rude look+ b effective me?od ( cond5s+ a previ\sly =m$ article4 ,x consi/s ( a tr\gh six or eight feet long1 & two feet wide1 v>y+ 9 size accord+ to ! k9d ( goods to be op]at$ on4 ,! bottom is ( a semi-circul> =m1 hav+ a radius ( five or six feet1 ) sides ris+ ?ree or f\r feet high1 a /rong solid head+1 b no end piece4 ,!re is a heavy wood5 batt]+-ram susp5d$ f above1 at a height answ]+ to ! curve ( ! tr\gh2 its imm5se head has a flat face fitt+ ! tr\gh 9 :i* x is made to play freely1 simil> to ! p5dulum ( a clock4 ,! goods are tumbl$ promiscu\sly into ?is tr\gh 9 front ( ! ram1 ) w>m wat]1 full]'s e>?1 & soap1 9 suffici5t quantity to saturate & wa% ! mat]ial1 a small /ream ( wat] f a boil] be+ admitt$ = t purpose4 ,! p[] ( a wat]-:eel or /eam eng9e draws back ! ram out ( its p]p5dicul>1 to its allott$ di/ance1 :5ce x falls by its own gravity1 ) a mom5tum t sweeps ! goods be=e x ) a fe>ful cra%1 ^u ! solid head+ ( ! tr\gh4 ,on ! )drawal ( ?is enorm\s hamm] = a second onset1 ! goods roll ov]1 resum+ _! quiesc5t /ate1 b diff]5tly dispos$1 :i* is no soon] done ?an back comes ! ram1 repeat+ its da%+ bl[s ^u its un(f5d+ & unresi/+ victims 9 ! tr\gh1 wa%+1 sc\r+1 & buffet+ !m ab\t1 till !y become n only clean1 b completely felt$4 ,all ( our broadclo?s h be5 subject$ to its action1 9 ! process ( :i* ! hairs ( ! weft & ^? ( ! w>p h become mutually entangl$1 & ea* ) "o ano!r1 z ) hatt+ 9 ! regul> h& process ( loose wool or fur felt+4 ,inde$1 e hair compos+ ! :ole piece ( clo? has its individual & indep5d5t progressive motions1 comb9+ ! ?reads ( bo? w>p & weft toge!r to su* an ext5t t ^! clo?s nev] unravel1 & no hemm+ ( a g>m5t is requir$ 9 ! mak+ ( our clo!s4 ,twelve h\rs 9 ! mill w r$uce a piece ( clo? two-fif?s ( its bread? & "o-?ird ( its l5g?4 ,! progressive travell+ motion ( ! hair result+ 9 ! entanglem5t ( ! fibres & consequ5t felt+ & %r9k+ ( ! clo?1 is fur!r exemplifi$ 9 ! com=table s(t half-dress caps ( ! ,briti% soldi]s1 & 9 ! bonnets & caps ( ! ,scotti% peasantry g5]ally1 :i* h all be5 fir/ knitt$ v l>ge ) s(t spun y>n1 & aft]w>ds felt$ d[n to ! requir$ size 9 ! full+ mill4 ,dur+ ! full+ ( any & all k9ds ( goods1 !y mu/ be frequ5tly tak5 out ( ! tr\gh1 to be /ret*$1 turn$1 ! folds /raight5$1 & g5]ally inspect$4 ,hi/ory ( ,hats & ,hatt+4 ,! ^w hat is ( ,saxon d]ivation1 be+ ! "n ( a well-kn[n piece ( dress worn ^u ! head by bo? sexes1 b pr9cipally by ! m51 z a cov]+ f ! hot sun ( summ]1 ! cold ( w9t]1 a def5ce f ! bl[s ( battle1 or = fa%ion4 ,be+ ! mo/ conspicu\s article ( dress1 & surm\nt+ all ! re/1 x has (t5 be5 ornam5t$ ) %[y plumes1 & jewels1 & ) b&s ( gold1 silv]1 c4 ,x is g5]ally di/+ui%$ f a cap by its hav+ a brim1 :i* a cap has n1 al?\gh !re are exceptions ev5 to ?is rule ( di/9ction1 = !re are hats t h no brims1 & !re are also caps t are provid$ ) a m>g94 ,^? hats t are made ( fur or wool h all be5 felt$1 & felt /rictly speak+ is a fabric manufactur$ by matt+ ! fibres toge!r1 )\t ! prelim9>y op]ation ( ei!r sp9n+ or ( weav+4 ,we f9d b little ( hat-mak+ record$ 9 hi/ory1 & any?+ relat+ to hats is extremely meagre1 al?\gh _! p>tial use may be trac$ back to ! "t ( anci5t ,greece among/ ! ,dorian tribes1 probably z e>ly z ! age ( ,hom]1 :5 !y 7 worn1 al?\gh only by ! bett] class ( citiz5s :5 on a di/ant j\rney4 ,! same cu/om prevail$ among ! ,a!nians1 z is evid5t f "s ( ! eque/rian figures 9 ! ,elg9 ,m>bles4 ,! ,romans us$ a bonnet or cap at _! sacrifices & fe/ivals1 b on a j\rney ! hat ) a brim 0 adopt$4 ,9 ! middle ages ! bonnet or cap ) a front 0 9 use among ! laity1 :ile ! ecclesia/ics wore hoods1 or c[ls4 ,pope ,innoc5t1 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 all[$ ! c>d9als ! use ( sc>let hats1 & ab\t ! ye> #addj1 ! use ( hats by p]sons on a j\rney appe>s to h be5 introduc$ into ,france1 & soon aft] became common 9 t c\ntry1 :5ce probably x spread to ! o!r ,european ,/ates4 ,:5 ,*>les ,,vii4 ( ,france made 8 triumphant entry into ,r\5 9 #addj1 he wore a felt$ hat4 ,hatt]s ( ! pres5t day mo/ g5]\sly ascribe ! honor ( ! inv5tion ( felt+1 & ( its prospective introduction to t ( hat-mak+1 to ! old r5[n$ ,monk ,/4 ,clem5t1 :o :5 m>*+ at ! head ( 8 pilgrim army obta9$ "s %eep's wool to put betwe5 ! soles ( 8 feet & ! s&als t he wore1 :i* ( c\rse became matt$ into a solid piece4 ,! old g5tleman1 philosophiz+ ^u ?is circum/ance1 promulgat$ ! idea ( its future usefulness1 & ?us x is said arose ! sy/ematic art ( felt+ & ( hat-mak+4 ,h[ev] all ?is may be1 /ill ! inv5tion ( felt$ fabrics = ! use ( man may h be51 z "s ass]t1 v anci5t & ( q unc]ta9 orig94 ,! simplicity ( its make1 z comp>$ ) t ( wov5 clo?1 %[s all speculative ass]tions to be r unc]ta94 ,h[ev] obscure ! orig9 may be1 we le>n t ! fir/ au!ntic acc\nts ( hatt]s appe>$ 9 ! middle ages1 9 ,nuremburg 9 #acfj1 9 ,france 9 #achj1 9 ,bav>ia 9 #adja1 & 9 ,london 9 #aeaj4 ,! hatt+ trade ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates ( ,am]ica is notic$ fir/ 9 ! repres5tations made by ! ,london ,bo>d ( ,trade to ! ,h\se ( ,commons 9 ! ye> #agcb1 9 :i* !y ref] to ! compla9ts ( ! ,london hatt]s1 reg>d+ ! ext5t to :i* _! p>ticul> manufacture 0 be+ c>ri$ at t "t 9 ,new ,york & 9 ! ,new ,engl& ,/ates4 ,! ,fa%ions4 ,a look at ! fa%ions & mode ( dress+ 9 anci5t times causes amusem5t4 ,s caprici\s is ! fancy ( man t no?+ is immutable1 all is *ange1 & hats h be5 ( all conceivable %apes & colors1 & dress$ ) ! mo/ fanciful decorations1 plumes1 jewels1 silk-loops1 rosettes1 badges1 gold & silv] b&s & loops1 c4 c4 ,! cr[ns & brims hav+ be5 9 all possible /yles f ! e>lie/ p]iod4 ,x w\ld appe> t no?+ is left = ! pres5t & all com+ "t1 b ! revival ( :at has already be51 ev5 to ! fanta/ical peak$ cr[n t rose half a y>d above ! we>]'s head4 ,9 ! fifte5? c5tury1 hats 9 ,great ,brita9 7 call$ vanities1 & 7 all import$1 co/+ tw5ty1 ?irty1 & =ty ,engli% %ill+s apiece1 :i* 7 l>ge sums ( money at t e>ly p]iod4 ,! mo/ extreme broad brims 7 worn ab\t ! ye> #agjj1 %ortly aft] :i* ! ?ree-corn]$ cock$ hat came 91 & ab\t ?is "t fea!rs ceas$ to be worn1 ! l+]+ rema9s be+ left = ! badge ( s]vitude to ! g5tleman's att5dant4 ,metal b&s & loops 7 only reg>d$ z prop] = naval & milit>y m5 ( honor4 ,x is a s+ul> hi/orical fact t ! elegant s(t hat ( ! ,spani>d has rema9$ ! same f ! e>lie/ p]iod to ! pres5t day1 :ile among all o!r civiliz$ nations a trans=mation 9 ! /yle ( t article has tak5 place4 ,com=t 9 ! we> seems to h giv5 place at all times to fancy & ! dem&s ( fa%ion4 ,que5 ,elizabe?'s pat5t grant to ! hatt]s ( ,london is /ill recogniz$ 9 ,engl&1 & ! #bc;d ( ,novemb] is ! hatt]s' annual fe/ival1 t be+ ,/4 ,clem5t's day1 ! patron ( ! trade4 ,prep>ation ( ,mat]ials4 ,previ\s to cutt+ ! fur f ! v>i\s sk9s1 !y mu/ be moi/5$1 /raight5$1 & clean$2 ! project+ long co>se hairs t are int]sp]s$ ?r\gh\t ! fur1 remov$ ei!r by pull+1 clipp+1 or %e>+2 ^? ( ! rabbit1 c4 be+ pull$1 :ile ^? ( ! h>e1 c4 are clipp$4 ,to pull ^! sup]flu\s hairs by ! h&1 ! p]son sits ) ! sk9 laid ov] ! knee1 /rapp$ d[n to ! foot1 & ) a dull-edg$ knife 9 h&1 ! ?umb be+ cov]$ ) a s(t %ield1 ! obnoxi\s gue/s are dextr\sly uproot$4 ,if done by ma*9]y1 !y are pull$ out by be+ nipp$ betwe5 two revolv+ sl5d] roll]s4 ,! sk9 is drawn ov] a %>p-edg$ bo>d1 :i* causes ^! hairs to project1 & ! roll]s plac$ 9 ! prop] position & di/ance1 frees ! fur ( its det]iorat+ associates ) great facility1 )\t di/urb+ ! fur4 ,furs int5d$ = body-mak+ und]go a process call$ c>rot+ or secretage1 :i* is an artificial me?od ( increas+ ! felt+ quality ( ! fur1 enabl+ ! hatt] to "w at a kettle ) clean pure wat]1 disp5s+ ) all acids & ! l1 & us+ boil]s o!r ?an ^? ( lead4 ,x is only ( late ye>s t c>rot+ has be5 inv5t$4 ,x is a *emical op]ation or me?od ( twi/+ or b5d+ ! natural /raight-hair$ furs1 & possesses also ! prop]ty ( rais+ or lift+ ! po9ts ( ! scales :i* clo! ! fibres ( ! fur1 !reby facilitat+ ! op]ation ( felt+2 :ile ! fur 9 its orig9al /raight /ate c\ld be us$ ) satisfaction only z an outside fl[+ nap ^u ! hat4 ,! me?od pursu$ to accompli% ?is result is1 to dissolve #cb p>ts ( quicksilv] 9 #ejj p>ts ( common aqua-=tis1 & dilute ! solution ) "o half or two-?irds ( its bulk ( wat] accord+ to ! /r5g? ( ! acid4 ,! sk9 hav+ be5 laid ^u a table ) ! hair upp]mo/1 a /\t bru%1 slightly moi/5$ ) ! m]curial solution1 is pass$ ov] ! smoo? surface ( ! hairs ) /rong pressure4 ,?is application mu/ be repeat$ sev]al times 9 succession1 till e "p ( ! fur is equally t\*$1 & till ab\t two-?irds ( ! l5g? ( ! hairs are moi/5$1 or a little m %\ld !y be rigid4 ,9 ord] to aid ?is impregnation1 ! sk9s are laid toge!r 9 pairs ) ! hairy sides 9 contact1 & put 9 ?is /ate into ! /ove-room1 & expos$ to a heat 9 proportion to ! weakness ( ! m]curial solution4 ,! dry+ %\ld be rapidly effect$1 z o!rwise ! conc5tration ( ! nitrate ( m]cury w n produce its effect 9 caus+ ! retraction & curl+ ( ! hairs4 ,no o!r acid or metallic solution b ! above has be5 f\nd to answ] ! desir$ purpose ( ! hat-mak]1 al?\gh sulphuric acid )\t ! quicksilv] has a limit$ effect :5 ! sk9s are treat$ z ^? above describ$4 ,= o!r purposes1 su* z t ( ! uphol/]]1 hair is curl$ by fir/ boil+ & !n bak+ x 9 an ov52 or x may be spun into ropes & bak$1 aft] :i* x is teas$ asund]4 ,prep>atory to cutt+ ! fur f ! pelt1 ! sk9s are damp5$ & flatt5$2 !y are ?us made smoo? & ready = ! op]ation1 :i* is p]=m$ by h&1 ) knives ab\t two in*es long by f\r wide1 hav+ a %ort upright h&le4 ,! sk9s are held ^u a cutt+-bo>d1 & ! pelt kept moi/5$ ) wat]2 a %eet ( t9 is laid ^u ! sk91 press$ d[n by ! left h&1 :il/ ! knife 9 ! "r h&1 be+ guid$ by ! edge ( ! t91 is run rapidly =w>d & backw>d across ! sk91 gradually slid+ ! t9 t[>d ! tail2 by ?is means ! fur is ga!r$ up1 & kept 9 "o fleece4 ,! pelts are appropriat$ to ! manufacture ( gild]'s cem5t1 or w make excell5t glue4 ,ma*9es 9 ! =m ( revolv+ %e>s1 simil> to ^? us$ = dress+ clo?1 are employ$ = su* sk9s z are unev5 9 ! pelt1 & :i* cut ! pelt f ! fur 9 sl5d] %r$s1 be+ q ! rev]se ( ! h& me?od1 :i* cuts ! fur f ! pelt4 ,/iff5+ & ,wat]-,pro(+ ,mat]ials4 ,!re is reason to suppose t :5 hats 7 fir/ inv5t$ & long subsequ5tly1 ! quantity ( /uff or mat]ial weigh$ out = a s+le hat 0 ( itself consid]$ suffici5t to /& unh>m$ ! dr5*+s :i* x 0 likely to enc\nt]4 ,h[ev]1 su* a hat 9 ! w>m season be+ unpleasant1 a light] body 0 propos$1 to conta9 "s /iff5+ sub/ance z a sub/itute1 & ! attempt prov$ q successful4 ,a se>* 0 in/itut$ = some?+ suitable = ! purpose t w\ld h>d5 ! hat suffici5tly1 )\t increas+ ! weight1 b r dim9i% x4 ,9 ^? times *emi/ry 0 comp>atively unkn[n1 & glue be+ at h&1 our pr$ecessors 9 ! hatt+ trade comm5c$ ! /iff5+ ( _! hats ) t mat]ial1 :i* long cont9u$ ! only article likely to succe$4 ,latt]ly1 h[ev]1 glue has become q obsolete1 hav+ be5 entirely sup]s$$ by ! v>i\s gums & res9s1 :i*1 :5 prop]ly prep>$1 enable ! manufactur] to put into ! m>ket a mu* sup]ior hat1 & "o m pleasant to we>1 weigh+ #c oz4 :i* 9 =m] times w\ld h weigh$ full half a p\nd4 ,! solubility ( glue 9 wat] 0 its defect1 & ! ultimate cause ( its rejection4 ,our spirit$ pr$ecessors 9 ! bus9ess1 by a k sup]ior to t ( _! pr$ecessors1 c\pl$ ) a devot$ _s & unfail+ resolution1 aft] _m vexati\s trials b little kn[n to our mod]n work]s1 succe$$ 9 r5d]+ a hat n only /\t1 light1 & wat]-pro(1 b *eap] & m beautiful to look at1 v5tilat$1 & altoge!r pleasant] to we>4 ,^u a retrospective view1 & consid]+ ! total ( ^! improvem5ts1 we may well excuse ! _m secrets & p>tialities exi/+ 9 ! trade1 = be=e any new admixture ( /iff5+ mat]ials or me?od ( apply+ !m1 :e!r be=e or aft] dye+1 c41 c\ld be prop]ly prov$1 _m doz5s ( hats 7 "u way4 ,x requir$ a l5g? ( "t to enable a prop] judgm5t ( ! exp]im5t to be pron\nc$2 ?us1 if unsuccessful1 involv+ ! "* ( ! manufactur] z a tradesman1 & 8 pecuni>y affairs at ! same "t4 ,! result1 h[ev]1 0 at la/ satisfactory1 & n[ !re are sev]al me?ods ( /iff5+ ) a wat]-pro( /iff1 :i* possesses all ! requisite qualifications4 ,!re is no dep>tm5t 9 ! hatt+ trade ( m importance ?an t ( /iff5+1 z ! k9d1 quality1 & quantity ( ! /iff mu/ be regulat$ accord+ to ! c\ntry 9 :i* ! hats are to be worn4 ,engl&1 = in/ance1 :]e !re is s mu* moi/ure 9 ! atmosph]e1 requires a mu* h>d] /iff ?an we d 9 ,am]ica4 ,am]ican manufactur]s f9d+ t %ellac possesses e requisite = bo? /iff5+ & wat]-pro(+1 n[ = _! be/ hats use t gum only dissolv$ 9 alcohol4 #bj lbs4 orange %ellac be+ dissolv$ ) #e gallons alcohol 9 a close vessel1 cold1 att5d+ c>efully to /ir x up repeat$ly to keep x f lump+ & /ick+ to ! bottom4 ,! vessel commonly is us$ 9 ! =m ( a b>rel or "s sort ( *urn4 ,:5 fully melt$ ! /iff is ready = use by be+ ?9n$ d[n to ! desir$ consi/5cy ) additional alcohol & put into ! hat ) a /iff bru%4 ,a *eap]1 call$ alkali-/iff1 & mu* us$ = inf]ior hats1 is-- #i lbs4 %ellac1 dissolv$ ) #ah oz4 ( sal soda 9 #c galls4 wat] 9 a t9 vessel4 ,! vessel ) ! wat] is set into ano!r conta9+ boil+ wat]1 & heat$2 ! soda is introduc$ gradually1 & is soon dissolv$1 & ! lac is !n put 9 & /irr$ occasionally = ab\t an h\r1 by :i* "t ! lac w be dissolv$4 ,! :ole is !n left = an h\r or two1 :5 x may be tak5 out & set to cool4 ,x is bett] if all[$ to rema9 a few days aft] hav+ be5 made4 ,:5 us$1 x is r$uc$ to ! requir$ /r5g? ) m wat]1 a hydromet] be+ employ$ z a te/4 ,! bodies are simply imm]s$ 9 ! liquor1 & pass$ betwe5 a pair ( roll]s "o by "o1 !reby sweep+ (f ! sup]flu\s comp\nd1 b leav+ !m completely saturat$4 ,! hats ) ?is /iff5+ mu/ be imm$iately & rapidly dri$ 9 ! /ove4 ,?is /iff is r5d]$ ! m popul> by add+ #c oz4 ( common salt to ! mixture be=e us+ x1 z ! salt neutralizes ! soda1 & ! hats may be block$ imm$iately aft] be+ /iff5$1 !reby sav+ "t & disp5s+ ) ! use ( ! /ove4 ,! two foll[+ receipts are giv5 z good & reliable ,engli% me?ods ( /iff5+ hats3-- #g lbs4 ( orange %ellac4 #b lbs4 ( gum s&>ac4 #d ozs4 gum ma/ic4 #a_/b lb4 ( amb] res94 #a p9t ( solution ( copal4 #a gallon ( alcohol or ( wood naph?a4 ,! lac1 s&>ac1 ma/ic1 & res9 are dissolv$ 9 ! _s1 & ! solution ( copal is add$ la/4 ,?is is call$ _s pro(1 & l our own is put into ! body ) a /iff bru%1 &1 be+ fully saturat$1 is set to dry4 ,a *eap] /iff5+1 also l our own call$ alkali or wat] /iff5+1 is-- #g lbs4 ( common black %ellac4 #a lb4 amb] ros94 #d ozs4 gum ?us4 #d ozs4 gum ma/ic4 #f ozs4 borax4 #a_/b p9t solution ( copal4 ,! borax is fir/ dissolv$ 9 #a gallon ( w>m wat]4 ,?is alkal9e liquor is n[ put into a copp] pan heat$ by /eam1 or x may be set into ano!r vessel conta9+ boil+ wat]1 & ! %ellac1 ?us1 & ma/ic add$4 ,?is is all[$ to boil = "s "t1 m w>m wat] be+ add$ occasionally1 until x is ( a prop] consi/5ce1 :i* is kn[n by a little practice4 ,:5 ! :ole ( ! gums seem dissolv$1 half a p9t ( wood naph?a mu/ be introduc$1 & also ! solution ( copal1 ! liquor %\ld be pass$ ?r\gh a f9e sieve1 :5 x w be p]fectly cle> & ready = use4 ,?is /iff5+ is us$ hot ) ! foll[+ prep>ations4 ,! hat bodies1 be=e !y are /iff5$1 %\ld be /eep$ 9 a weak solution ( soda1 to de/roy any acid t may h be5 left 9 !m4 ,if sulphuric acid has be5 us$ 9 ! mak+ ( ! bodies1 aft] !y h be5 /eep$ 9 ! alkal9e solution !y mu/ be p]fectly dri$ 9 ! /ove be=e ! /iff5+ is appli$4 ,:5 /iff5$ & /ov$1 !y %\ld be /eep$ all night 9 wat] to :i* a small quantity ( sulphuric acid has be5 add$4 ,?is sets ! /iff5+ 9 ! hat body & f9i%es ! process4 ,if ! pro( is requir$ *eap]1 m %ellac & ros9 may be introduc$4 ,! ,bl[+ ,ma*9e4 ,9 ! manufacture ( ! f9e/ k9ds ( fur hats1 namely1 ^? ) a fl[+ nap1 ! /uffs ( :i* !y are made mu/ be ?or\ghly ref9$4 ,! clipp+ & pull+ op]ations1 to :i* ! sk9s 7 subject$ previ\s to cutt+ (f ! fur1 nev] free ! fur entirely ( ! co>se hairs t are int]mix$ ) ! f9]2 & to sep>ate ! co>se f ! f9e1 ! fur1 z x came (f ! sk91 is plac$ "u ! action ( ! bl[+ ma*9e1 :i* consi/s ( a long1 close1 n>r[1 wood5 box1 divid$ into a numb] ( ap>tm5ts1 ! divisions betwe5 ea* ( !m hav+ an op5 space at ! top or bottom1 s t a bla/ ( w9d c be propell$ ?r\gh ! :ole l5g? ( ! trunk4 ,! fur is put into "o ( ^! receptacles at "o end1 :]e x is teas$ & toss$ by revolv+ bru%es set 9 ! bottoms ( sev]al ( !m1 & a revolv+ fan is plac$ at ! head4 ,! :ole be+ set 9 motion by "s fir/ p[]1 ! bla/ ( w9d f ! fan seizes ! loose ?r[n up fur t is toss$ by ! revolv+ break]s & bru%es1 & ! /ream ( fly+ fur is transmitt$ f division to division1 along ! :ole l5g? ( ! wood5 box4 ,9 ?is op]ation1 ! fur is grad$ z x is bl[n along & deposit$ gradually 9 ! respective places1 lodg+ 9 ! mo/ regul> ord]1 f ! "o end ( ! wood5 trunk to ! o!r1 ! du/ & dirt fall+ d[n bel[1 ! heavi] portion ( fur n be+ bl[n to ! same di/ance z t ( ! f9]1 :i* rea*es ! f>!r end1 :]e ! f9e/ ( all is receiv$ entirely ref9$ ( its impurities4 ,b ! cutt+ & bl[+ ( fur are bo? indep5d5t & di/9ct bran*es ( bus9ess1 al?\gh relatively connect$ ) t ( hatt+1 & ! v>i\s grades ( fur are b\ght by ! hatt]s f ! pr(essional hat furri]s or _! ag5ts4 ,! ,manufacture ( ,hats4 ,be=e comm5c+ a detail ( ! processes ( ! trade1 x w be necess>y to be> 9 m9d t hatt+ is univ]sally divid$ into two great divisions1 viz41 ! mak+1 & ! f9i%+ dep>tm5ts1 ea* ( :i* z a matt] ( c\rse has its subdivisions4 ,) ! exception ( encyclopdias :i* give deta*$ & v abridg$ descriptions ( felt mak+ & ( hatt+ g5]ally1 !re has be5 no specific acc\nt publi%$ 9 ei!r pamphlet or book-=m1 s f> z ! writ] is aw>e1 ( ! mann] 9 :i* felt hats are made1 or ( ! pr9ciple ( felt+ by :i* !y are produc$4 ,?is is consid]$ by ! writ] a suffici5t inducem5t to illu/rate to ! be/ ( 8 ability a pr9ciple entirely belong+ to natural hi/ory1 viz41 ! natural scaly clo?+ t is ^u all hair1 & hi!rto b little kn[n1 & ^u :i* sev]al important bran*es ( bus9ess dep5d4 ,inde$1 x seems almo/ absurd to ?9k t a hair1 puny z x is 9 itself1 be>s ^u its sides a some?+ ( su* importance1 s v m9ute z to require ! utmo/ att5tion ) ! aid ( ! be/ microscopes to be se5 at all1 & yet ^u t some?+ is bas$ ! art ( felt+ & ( c\rse ( hat-mak+1 besides sev]al bran*es ( o!r trades1 "s ( :i* h already be5 m5tion$4 ,hat-mak+ 0 long consid]$ a bus9ess to :i* ma*9]y nev] c\ld be appli$1 b ! inv5tions ( man h at la/ dispell$ ?is illusion1 & ma*9]y is n[ employ$ 9 sev]al ( ! mo/ important dep>tm5ts ( ! trade4 ,! reason :y ?is idea obta9$ su* g5]al cr$5ce 01 fir/1 on acc\nt ( ! close att5tion requisite1 :ile ! hat is "u ! op]ation ( siz+4 ,second1 ! kn[n impossibility ( napp+ or ruff+ a hat by any means ) ma*9]y1 also1 ! ackn[l$g$ failures ( sev]al attempts to sub/itute c>d+ = t ( b[+1 & v>i\s futile attempts ) ! irons 9 ! f9i%+ dep>tm5t4 ,! innovations ( ma*9]y1 h[ev]1 h n[ obta9$ a sure foot+ 9 all l>ge factories1 & "s ( !m w come "u obs]vation 9 _! prop] places4 ,9 ! mean "t we %all conf9e our obs]vations to ! old sy/em1 :i* /ill prevails 9 mo/ small factories & all small t[ns4 ,our hone/ =efa!rs1 ! manufactur]s 9 =m] times1 w\ld insi/ ^u mak+ hats to we> n = a season1 z ) u1 b = _m ye>s1 be+ afraid ( damag+ ! trade to d o!rwise1 b n[ a hat = city we>1 ( sc>cely ?ree ounces weight1 & la/+ two or x may be ?ree mon?s1 is q a common ?+4 ,! usual quantity ( /uff giv5 out = a regul> felt hat1 modifi$ ( c\rse to a v great ext5t by ! m>ket1 we %all suppose to be ?ree ounces ( fur4 ,x may or may n be a mixture ( diff]5t k9ds & qualities ( /uff previ\sly prep>$ by c>rot+1 & may or may n be ref9$ by ! w9n[+ ma*9e1 :i* sep>ates ! diff]5t qualities ( fur4 ,^! ?ree ounces1 h[ev]1 are sometimes increas$ by unpr9cipl$ m5 to f\r & a qu>t] or f\r & a half ounces1 by ! addition ( o!r & *eap] +r$i5ts1 :i* are all laid ^u a plat=m ( bo>ds ab\t five feet squ>e1 call$ a hurdle1 ov] :i* a l>ge b[ ( ab\t six feet long /rung ) cat-gut1 ,fig4 #a1 is susp5d$4 ,?is b[ is held by ! left h& ( ! hatt]1 & ) ! "r he holds a small piece ( wood ) a head or knot ^u x1 ,fig4 #b1 ) :i* he tugs ! /r+ ( ! b[ & makes x vibrate ^u ! /uff1 & into x1 ) great dext]ity & ) ! nice/ judgm5t4 ,?is op]ation has always be5 consid]$ a beautiful sight to a /rang]1 z ! p]=m] goes on pluck+ ! /r+1 & ! /r+ play+ ^u ! top ( ! fur1 :i* lies ^u ! left h& side ( ! plat=m4 ,! fur t\*$ by ! /r+ is made to fly f "o side ( ! bo>ds to ! o!r ) ! greate/ regul>ity4 ,s nicely is ?is b[+ p]=m$1 ! /uff fly+ f ! b[-/r+ hair by hair1 & flake by flake1 t a hat 9 ?is loose /ate may measure sev]al in*es 9 ?ickness4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,hat ,b[4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,b[-,p94 ,9 ?is op]ation1 ! diff]5t mat]ials are toss$ ab\t to-&-fro repeat$ly1 & mix$ ) a mu* great] regul>ity & *ange ( position ( ! v>i\s filam5ts ?an if drawn by c>d+ ma*9]y4 ,"o half ( ! int5d$ hat1 call$ a bat1 is b[$ at a "t1 & bo? 9 ne>ly a triangul> %ape1 :i* be+ ga!r$ up1 & press$ ) a flat squ>e piece ( wick]-"w1 ,fig4 #c1 & aft]w>ds ) a smoo? sk9 or clo?1 is press$ & g5tly rubb$ ) ! h&s backw>d & =w>d s z to create a friction on ! surface fibres1 !reby int]lac+ ! outside filam5ts1 by :i* means ! simply safe-lift+ ( ^! two half-solidifi$ portions ( ! future hat is secur$4 ,! "o-half be+ laid ^u ! o!r1 ) a triangul> piece ( pap] or clo? betwe51 !y are jo9$ toge!r by ov]lapp+ two ( ! ?ree sides1 !reby giv+ to ! int5d$ hat ! =m & figure ( a holl[ cone or great bag1 b s t5d] t none b an exp]i5c$ hatt] c\ld h&le x4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,hat ,basket4 ,?is op]ation ( b[+ is ! same1 ) b little v>iation1 :e!r x be = co>se or f9e hats4 ,if :olly ( wool1 !y are n[ swaddl$ c>efully 9 an out] clo?1 & spr9kl$ ) wat]1 & laid ^u a w>m plate ( metal :i* s5ds ! /eam up ?r\gh ! hat :i* is to be press$1 & slightly rubb$1 spr9kl$ aga91 & turn$ ov]4 ,cont9u+ ! press+ & rubb+1 & by repeat+ ^! op]ations = "s "t1 ! motions are transmitt$ to all ! inclos$ fibres ( wool ) an irritat+ feel+1 z x 71 excit+ _! prop5sity = travell+1 till ! out] hairs1 9 _! motions1 w>p !mselves ) ea* o!r & ! surface appe>s sk9-l & becomes smoo?4 ,dur+ ^! actions1 ! hat inside ( ! clo? mu/ be sev]al times *ang$ 9 position & kept 9 prop] =m1 :5 its swaddl+ envelope & ! pap] )9 :i* kept ! inside op5 & free may be remov$4 ,^! op]ations conclud$1 ! t5d] hat mu/ n[ be subject$ to a mu* m labori\s op]ation1 :]e1 prop]ly speak+1 ! gr& practical art ( felt+ takes place1 :]e ?\s&s ( ?\s&s ( filam5ts are all 9 active ?\gh sl[ motion1 all travell+ on _! own individual c\rse1 indep5d5t (1 & at ! same "t dep5d5t ^u1 ea* o!r = _! mutual support1 be+ c>efully guid$ collectively1 by ! hatt]'s good judgm5t4 ,?is /age ( ! op]ation is a wet "o requir+ an op5 boil] surr\nd$ by planks1 :i* slope t[>ds ! c5tre1 call$ a batt]y1 ,fig4 #d1 suitable = six or eight m5 to "w at4 ,ea* man is provid$ ) a roll+-p91 clo?s1 bru%es1 c4 ,! s(t & t5d] hat is laid ^u "o ( ^! planks or b5*es1 wrapp$ 9 a damp clo?1 & c>efully wett$1 squeez$1 fold$1 roll$ & unroll$1 keep+ x con/antly moi/5$ by dipp+ x 9 ! hot wat] ( ! boil]1 fold+ & unfold+ ) e v>iety ( cross+s1 roll+ x z a scroll1 press+1 %ak+1 dipp+ & roll+ x aga9 & aga91 ! hatt] all ! :ile b5d+ ov] 8 "w 9 front ( ! almo/ boil+ caldron1 & surr\nd$ by /eam4 ,he labors h>d1 ev] *ang+ ! position ( ! hat "u 8 h&s1 s z to make x an ev5ly felt$ & p]fect piece ( "w1 :i* ^! (t-repeat$ motions ultimately accompli%4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,batt]y = ,siz+ ,hats4 ,?is is ! gr& felt+ op]ation2 ! cause ( :i* 0 s long consid]$ a my/]y1 & n[ asc]ta9$ to result f ! peculi> natural con/ruction ( ! animal fibre1 z already expla9$4 ,9 ?is plank+ or siz+ ( ! hat1 sometimes ) half a doz5 "u h&s at ! same "t1 ! envelop+ clo? is soon ?r[n aside z ! hat gr[s 9 solidity4 ,! h&s ( ! hatt] are def5d$ f ! scald+ wat] by ?ick lea!r %ields ^u ! palms1 & z ! hat approa*es its prop] size1 x is scald$ & belabor$ ) det]m9$ importunity1 coil$1 roll$1 press$1 & p9n$1 backw>d & =w>d till ! size ( ! hat is r$uc$ to ne>ly half ( its orig9al dim5sions1 & ! t5sion ( ! sev]al fibres becomes s great t ! hat w felt no f>!r4 ,at ?is /age x is impossible = x to be torn asund]1 & is /ill 9 its orig9al =m ( a holl[ cone4 ,su* is ! mak+ dep>tm5t ( ! trade1 ! felt+ process1 :]e a firm piece ( clo? 7= su* is ! body ( a hat7 is manufactur$ f loose wool or fur1 indep5d5t ( ei!r sp9n+ or weav+4 ,we h n[ expla9$ ! mak+ ( ! b>e body1 z x is call$1 ( a pla9 hat1 9 z concise a mann] z ! subject w p]mit4 ,!re are yet a v>iety ( qualities & k9ds ( hats requir+ a v>iation m or less 9 ! manipulation ( ! article1 s z to suit a fanciful & fa/idi\s p4 ,= in/ance1 ! quantity & quality ( fur1 or an entire *ange ( mat]ials1 produce q a diff]5t appe>ance bo? 9 ! look1 ! we>1 & ! price ( ! hat1 :ile ! =m ( ! cone mu/ be *ang$ to admit ( a high or l[ cr[n1 or ( a broad or n>r[ brim1 c4 c4 ,all ,,felt hats1 ( :atev] texture1 nature1 or "n1 mu/ h und]gone ! above describ$ op]ations1 & _m h to g back a second "t to ! plank kettle1 & !re und]go an additional teas+ & duck+ 9 ! scald+ wat]4 ,= in/ance1 all ^? de/9$ to receive a coat ( fur ^u ! outside f9] ?an t ( :i* ! body is made1 & con/itut+ ! fl[+ nap ( ! hat1 :i* is m]ely a k9d ( v5e]+ or outside plat+1 :i* w %ortly be describ$4 ,a v good hat is made hav+ a fl[+ nap t is rais$ directly f ! body itself4 ,?us :5 ! body ( su* a hat z has be5 describ$ is ab\t half wr\ght up at ! kettle1 x und]goes 9 ano!r dep>tm5t ! op]ation ( %av+1 by :i* means ! project+ co>se hairs are all cut (f1 aft] :i*1 on be+ return$ to ! kettle1 ! hatt]1 ) 8 /iff bru%1 c>d1 & comb1 raises a nap ^u ! half solidifi$ body1 :i* is con/antly improv$ z he cont9ues to manipulate ) ! bru%4 ,! hat is1 at ! same "t1 r$uc$ 9 its dim5sions by ! op]ation ( felt+ until at ! conclusion :5 x appe>s ( ! desir$ size1 fully felt$1 & adorn$ on ! outside ) its r\gh & fl[+ nap1 :i* o!rwise w\ld h be5 smoo? & clo?-l4 ,?is is call$ ! bru% hat4 ,%av+4 ,9 ! process ( fur felt+ !re is a con/ant t5d5cy = ! /rong /raight hairs ( ! body to "w to ! outside1 s t :e!r ! hat is design$ to receive a ,,b>e f9i% aft]w>ds1 or to get a plat$ cov] ( beav] = a nap1 ^? bodies mu/ all und]go ! op]ation ( %av+4 ,a workman sits 9 ano!r ap>tm5t ) "o ( !m1 :5 dry1 spread ov] 8 knee1 & ) a long blad$ %>p knife 9 h&1 sweeps rapidly ov] ! surface1 cutt+ (f & depriv+ x ( ^? det]iorat+ sup]flu\s intrud]s1 aft] :i* ! hats are =w>d$ to ! /iff5+ dep>tm5t4 ,/iff5+ ,process4 ,! bodies ( ! hats n[ made1 dri$ & %av$1 & ! _s wat]-pro(+ already prep>$1 be+ ?9n$1 or r$uc$ to ! prop] consi/5ce1 ! hat is laid ^u a flat slop+ bo>d1 & ! /iff5+ is put into x ) a /\t bru%1 & soak$ to t degree ( saturation kn[n only by exp]i5ce1 ! brims receiv+ a d\ble portion = extra /\tness1 & are !n set aside to dry4 ,! alkali or inf]ior k9d ( /iff5+1 :5 us$1 is likewise dilut$1 & appli$ by imm]s+ ! body fully into ! prep>$ +r$i5ts already describ$1 & ei!r wrung out ) ! h&s1 or pass$ a c\ple ( times betwe5 a pair ( roll]s set at a prop] wid?1 :i* det]m9es ! quantity ( pro(+ absorb$ by ! hat4 ,x %\ld be obs]v$1 reg>d+ ?is /iff5+ ( hats1 t x is simply a v>ni%+ ( ! sev]al fibres ( ! fur ( :i* ! hat is made1 ea* hair individually has got a coat ( wat]-pro(+ v>ni%1 = :5 dry x w be f\nd t ! int]/ices betwe5 ea* & e fibre are q op5 & free1 & !re=e susceptible ( v5tilation2 ?us diff]+ entirely f :at w\ld h be5 ! case _h x be5 /iff5$ ) any k9d ( pa/e4 ,ruff+ or ,napp+4 ,v little ( ?is is done at pres5t 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,aft] ! b>e body ( ! hat is /iff5$1 if a fl[+ nap ( beav]1 ott]1 neutra1 or o!r f9e fur is desir$1 f9] ?an t ( :i* ! body is made1 half an ounce m or less ( ! sup]ior unc>rot$ /uff is weigh$ out1 suffici5t to cov] ! :ole outside surface ( ! hat4 ,! hatt] lays ?is preci\s morsel ) p]haps "o-eigh? ounce ( cotton on ! hurdle1 "u ! b[1 z he did ) ! /uff = ! body1 & ) a simil> b light] in/rum5t1 ^! two /uffs are completely mix$ & spread ^u ! bo>ds1 z ev5ly z 8 exp]i5c$ h&s c d x2 ! cotton be+ us$ m]ely to enable him to h&le ! fur1 :i* o!rwise w\ld be s ?9ly spread1 & s att5uat$ ( itself1 z to endang] ! simple act ( lift+ x4 ,?is mixture ( fur & cotton is next spread ^u ! wet b>e body ( ! hat z x lies ^u ! plank at ! kettle1 a little wat] is spr9kl$ ov] x & beat d[n ) a bru%4 ,! hat ) ?is surface cov]+ is wrapp$ v c>efully 9 a piece ( clo? or co>se hair-clo?1 & op]at$ on v lightly1 & ne>ly 9 ! same mann] z :5 felt+ ! body4 ,! object to be atta9$ is to get ! fibres ( ! f9e fur to p5etrate ! body1 & take root z x 7 !re9--great c>e & wat*fulness be+ dem&$ ( ! workman at e motion ( 8 h&s1 9 ?is mann] ( work+4 ,! po9ts ( ! fibres ( ! beav] fur p5etrate ! body ( ! hat1 & hav+ once got a foot+1 x con/antly advances1 z ! active c>eful roll+1 fold+ & unfold+1 %ak+ & toss+ g on1 until ! fur has sep>at$ itself f ! cotton2 by its bor+1 hav+ obta9$ a firm lodgm5t 9 ! solid felt ( ! hat body root end =emo/4 ,! cotton ) :i* x 0 mix$ is left beh9d loose & useless1 = want ( ! little r\gh scaly prop]ty t ! o!r possess$4 ,an inexp]i5c$ workman 9 ?us ruff+ a hat is liable to cont9ue 8 "w too long1 until ! beav] napp+ has burr[$ q ?r\gh to ! inside ( ! hat1 :]e x is lo/4,c ,9 ! v>i\s op]ations ( ! hatt] ) hot wat]1 :e!r 9 body-mak+1 napp+1 or dye+1 c41 ! wat] %\ld n be all[$ to boil1 = indep5d5t ( ! damage to "s k9ds ( /iff5+1 z hair conta9s a l>ge portion ( gelat9e 9 its sub/ance 7to :i* alone x owes its suppl5ess & t\ghness71 ?is gelat9e w be sep>at$ f ! hair4 ,?is is p>ticul>ly ! case ) napp$ hats1 = :5 ?us treat$ ! fibre becomes mu* m brittle ?an be=e1 & ! nap soon breaks (f r\nd ! squ>e4 ,fur hats hav+ a fl[+ nap are sometimes clipp$ v %ort ) revolv+ %e>s simil> to ^? us$ 9 dress+ clo?1 & :i* is done previ\s to block+ or dye+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,hat ,block4 ,block+4 ,previ\s to dye+1 all hats mu/ be block$1 us+ su* blocks z approa* ! int5d$ %ape ( ! hat1 & z soon z possible aft] ! mak+ dep>tm5t is conclud$4 ,x is a labori\s op]ation1 ?\gh simple1 z ! nature ( felt all[s x to be /ret*$ to a great ext5t 9 any direction :5 x is wet & hot4 ,9 ! act ( block+1 ! conical =m ( ! hat is lo/ = ! fir/ "t4 ,! hat is n[ imm]s$ 9 ! boil+ wat] ( ! kettle1 & :ile wet & hot ! tip is /ret*$ wide1 & ! :ole ?+ simply drawn d[n ov] ! block1 a tight cord is run d[n to :]e ! b& is to be & ! brim flatt5$ out4 ,dye+4 ,! next op]ation is t ( dye+ or color+1 & if conv5i5t1 & ! hats f9e1 ea* hat %\ld be ^u its respective block :5 9 ! color kettle1 great c>e be+ obs]v$ to keep ! squ>e f abrasion1 z ! lea/ rub may deprive a napp$ hat ( its fur at t expos$ & important "p4 ,mo/ g5]ally1 h[ev]1 ! hats are color$ )\t a block1 ! block+ be+ p]=m$ z soon aft] ! dye+ & wa%+ z possible 9 boil+ wat]4 ,! ord9>y +r$i5ts = black are1 = #ab doz51 #add lbs4 ( logwood1 *ipp$1 or its value 9 extract4 #ab lbs4 ( gre5 sulphate ( iron or copp]as4 #g-a_/b lbs4 ( ,fr5* v]digris4 ,! kettle %\ld nev] boil nor exce$ #aij degrees1 & dur+ ! op]ation ! hats mu/ be repeat$ly tak5 out & expos$ to ! action ( ! oxyg5 ( ! air1 s z to /rike a deep] color1 & dur+ ! necess>y exposure to ^! air+s1 ! "t is improv$ by hav+ two suits ( hats go+ on at ! same "t4 ,f six to twelve h\rs are requir$ to complete ! op]ation4 ,! %ort] ! "t ! hats are 9 ! dye1 compatible ) ! deepness ( ! color1 ! bett] w be ! goods1 z boil+ extracts ! gelat9e ( ! hair & makes ! nap brittle1 :i* is se5 by comp>+ dy$ articles ) ^? t are ( a native color4 ,pumic+ or ,p\nc+4 ,p\nc+ is a t]m = rubb+ d[n ! outside ( a hat ) a piece ( pumice /one1 s& pap]1 or em]y pap]1 :]eby ! hat is made entirely b>e1 smoo?1 & f9e1 resembl+ a piece ( v f9e clo?4 ,^! are g5]ally call$ cassim]e hats4 ,?is op]ation is usually p]=m$ aft] dye+1 & previ\s to f9i%+4 ,"s mak]s1 h[ev]1 pref] to s+e ! hats in/ead ( p\nc+1 b su* hats nev] feel s f9e z ! o!rs1 z ! s+e+ ( any hair inv>iably produces a h>d crisp burnt knob ^u ! end4 ,f9i%+4,d ,:5 a hat arrives at t /ate ( =w>dness ready = f9i%+1 x is a v unsightly object to any p]son b a hatt]4 ,mo/ ( its processes h be5 wet ones1 b n[ x is to assume a g5teel & prepossess+ appe>ance1 "u ! arti/ic appliances ( bru%es1 clo?s1 hot irons1 & labor$ ex]cise4 ,if a pla9 s(t hat1 x is pull$ ov] su* a block z is requir$1 a cord is run r\nd ! hat to keep x tight ^u ! block2 ! tip & brim are !n flatt5$ ) ! hot iron1 wet sponge1 bru%es1 & hair-clo? cu%ion or velure1 sev]al wett+s be+ necess>y 9 f9i%+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,hat ,iron4 ,! brim is next cut to ! requir$ wid?1 & ! cord run d[n to ! dep? ( ! block4 ,! side-cr[n is n[ to be f9i%$1 along ) ! tip & upp] & "u sides ( ! brim1 ! hatt] ex]cis+ 8 be/ judgm5t4 ,! block is !n )drawn1 ! brim curl$ & set1 & ! f9i%$ hat s5t (f to ! trimm] to get l9$ & b\nd2 x is !n tipp$ (f & pack$ = m>ket4 ,! f9i%+ ( ?is k9d ( hat is a simple op]ation :5 comp>$ to t ( a napp$ hat2 requir+ only ! assum+ ( ! prop] %ape & =m1 ! solidify+ ( ! body1 & giv+ x su* a lu/re & f9i% z ! quality ( ! mat]ial w all[4 ,! /iff cassim]e hat be+ less flexible1 is subject$ to hot /eam prep>atory to block+1 :]eby x is made s(t & pliable4 ,:5 9 ?is /ate x is drawn d[n ov] ! block1 & ! block )drawn1 to ins]t a prep>$ disk ( pa/ebo>d into ! cr[n = /r5g?1 aft] :i* x is f9i%$ mu* 9 ! same way z t already describ$1 b ) ! diff]5ce1 t a clo? mu/ always int]v5e betwe5 ! hot iron & ! hat :5 f9i%+4 ,! f9i%+ ( a napp$ hat1 :e!r x be bru% or beav]1 is a v diff]5t process f t = ei!r ( ^? j describ$1 requir+ ! nice/ att5tion & pati5t p]sev]ance by ! be/ workm54 ,! hats are giv5 out by ! half doz51 :i* are sort$ = ! diff]5t sizes & /eam$ "o by "o2 ! hot /eam s(t5s ! /iff5+1 & :5 pliable1 ! hat is drawn d[n ov] ! respective f9i%+ blocks1 ! nap ( ea* hat /raight5$ ) a wet bru%1 & a half f9i% giv5 to x ) ! wat]1 bru%1 & b>e hot iron4 ,! block is !n )drawn & ! hat giv5 to be %av$ ) a razor4 ,?is seems a s+ul> op]ation2 b a few passes ) t in/rum5t ov] ! hat effectually cut (f all ^? project+ co>se hairs t h elud$ all previ\s attempts at removal1 & )\t 9 ! smalle/ degree endang]+ ! f9] fur ( ! nap4 ,! hat is n[ return$ to ! f9i%] to complete ! process4 ,^! co>se hairs1 :5 left 9 ! hat depreciat+ v mat]ially its value1 7 =m]ly pluck$ out by h& ) a pair ( pick]s1 hair by hair1 (t5 to ! injury ( ! hat4 ,! advantage ( ! razor w be obvi\s to all4 ,a pa/ebo>d disk1 well spread ) dissolv$ %ellac1 is n[ ins]t$ into ! tip1 & ! block reset4 ,! workman ) 8 hot iron1 wet & dry bru%es1 c41 lays d[n ! nap 9 its prop] direction1 & ! hat by cont9u\s labor becomes solidifi$ & m ela/ic1 ! tip is r5d]$ /\t by ! adhesion ( ! prep>$ inside disk2 & by ! repeat$ wett+s1 & c>eful iron+s & bru%+s1 all ! ripply appe>ance ( ! fur is de/roy$1 & ! :ole surface becomes smoo? & %9+4 ,! cr[n be+ f9i%$ is !n pap]$ up1 & ! same op]ations t 7 be/[$ ^u ! cr[n are n[ to be repeat$ on ! brim1 bo? on ! upp] & "u side1 :i* hav+ be5 accompli%$1 a gauge is appli$ & ! brim cut to ! requir$ wid? ready = ! trimm+4 ,!re is a beautiful inv5tion = pres]v+ ! =m ( all hats hav+ flat or s(t supple brims by means ( a flatt5$ wire1 ^u :i* two small twi/s are made1 & :5 jo9$ z a hoop1 ! prop] concave is produc$4 ,?is hoop is atta*$ to ! out] edge ( ! brim1 & cov]$ ) ! b9d+1 & ?us ! unsightly sl\* t (t5 de=m$1 p>ticul>ly ! s(t brimm$ hat1 is p]man5tly prev5t$1 & ! graceful curve completely secur$4 ,silk ,hatt+4 ,! art ( silk hatt+ is comp>atively ( mod]n inv5tion1 consi/+ simply ( a cov] ( silk plu% ov] a body ( "s o!r mat]ial4 ,z mu* sleight ( h& is requir$ 9 ?is dep>tm5t1 x naturally foll[s t a good workman is a valuable & appreciat$ artisan4 ,! bodies us$ = ?is k9d ( hat h be5 s v>i\s1 t a full1 or ev5 succ9ct1 description ( !m w\ld be q sup]flu\s4 ,wool & fur bodies1 /raw & leghorn1 cork1 :alebone & musl91 c41 ev5 /ret*]s simil> to umbrellas )\t a body at all h be5 adopt$1 & all ( !m h _h _! day4 ,at pres5t1 h[ev]1 ! trade seems to h settl$ d[n to ! two k9ds--fur & musl94 ,! fur body ( a silk hat1 call$ a %ell previ\s to com+ into ! h&s ( ! silk f9i%]1 is made mu* 9 ! same mann] z t ( a pla9 s(t hat1 by felt+ & siz+ x d[n to ! prop] dim5sions 9 ! plank kettle4 ,x is q light & ?91 & :5 block$ or o!rwise1 & dri$1 is !n ready = /iff5+ by ! f9i%]4 ,! diff]5t sub/ances = ?is purpose1 & ! v>i\s me?ods ( do+ x1 h be5 z num]\s z ! v>ieties ( bodies t h be5 adopt$4 ,! :ole ( !m1 h[ev]1 n[ h be5 ab&on$ = %ellac4 ,! mo/ simple & ! be/ /iff5+ = any hat is %ellac dissolv$ 9 alcohol1 & ?9n$ d[n to a prop] consi/5ce4 ,a *eap]1 h[ev]1 & at ! same "t good /iff5+1 is ! ammonia /iff already describ$4 ,ei!r ( ^! is appli$ 9 a l mann] & ) ! l op]ations4 ,! s(t body or %ell1 z x is (t5 call$1 is imm]s$ 9 ! liquid 9 a bas91 !n wrung out & pull$ ^u a block1 ! brim be+ flatt5$1 a bru% is dipp$ into ano!r vessel conta9+ a ?ick] lac1 & appli$ to ! squ>e & brim = extra /r5g?2 aft] ?is ! block is )drawn1 & ! body set to dry4 ,^! felt$ bodies or %ells1 z !y are call$1 :5 dry are /eam$ g5]ally ov] ! hatt]'s hot iron1 & pull$ :5 w>m & s(t ov] ! f9i%+ block4 ,a cord is !n run tight r\nd ! %ell1 & ! block )drawn2 ! prep>$ pa/ebo>d tip is ins]t$ into ! cr[n1 & ! block reset2 aft] :i* ! body receives a regul> hot iron+ all ov]4 ,9 ?is op]ation ! ins]t$ tip adh]es to ! felt1 & ! :ole body assumes ! exact c\nt]p>t ( ! block1 bo? cr[n & brim4 ,! r\gh hairs are n[ to be remov$ by s& or em]y pap] & ! block )drawn4 ,! body next receives a coat ( ! be/ size1 & :5 dry two coats ( se$-lac1 or copal v>ni% :i* f9i%es ! mak+ ( ?is k9d ( body4 ,^? bodies t are made ( musl91 :5 fir/ inv5t$1 7 call$ gossam]1 f _! extreme lightness1 & ?\gh !y h increas$ 9 weight1 !y /ill reta9 ! "n ( gossam] hats4 ,9 prep>+ = ! body1 a few y>ds ( musl9 are ext5d$ ^u a frame1 & saturat$ ) liquefi$ %ellac1 or wat] /iff1 :i* :5 dry is cut bias into /rips = sides1 tips1 & brims4 ,"o side ( ^! side & tip pieces ( musl9 is ov]laid ) ! silk int5d$ = ! inside l9+ ( ! hat1 & press$ to adhesion2 or ?is may be done :ile 9 ! web be=e be+ cut into /rips4 ,! block be+ set ^u ! bottom-bo>d1 "o ( ^! extra prep>$ sides is w\nd tight r\nd ! side-cr[n ( x1 & ! two ends /uck toge!r by ov]lapp+4 ,a piece ( ! prep>$ tips is next laid on1 & made to adh]e to ! side-cr[n4 ,! brim consi/s ( ?ree ?icknesses ( /\t musl9 ( a circul> =m1 ea* ) a hole 9 ! c5tre1 all ( :i* are slipp$ ov] ! cr[n d[n to _! place ( de/9ation ) a qu>t] ( an in* ( ! edge ris+ up on ! side4 ,a second side-cr[n & ano!r tip are n[ appli$1 cov]+ ! o!rs1 & ! :ole ( ^! cem5t$ toge!r ) ! hot iron1 ! %ellac ) :i* !y 7 /iff5$ act+ z a cem5t4 ,aft] receiv+ a coat ( size & "o ( v>ni%1 ?is body w be ready1 l ! o!r ,,fur body1 = ! f9i%]4 ,9 prep>+ ^! bodies1 cov] ! block ) a s(t %ell4 ,be=e comm5c+ ! f9i%+1 h[ev]1 we w describe ! sew+ ( ! silk plu% cov]1 :i* is q a nice & p>ticul> piece ( "w4 ,! /rip ( plu% = ! side-cr[n is cut f ! web bias & ( a wid? ! dep? ( ! int5d$ hat2 ! tip piece :i* is to mate ?is side-cr[n is ( c\rse circul>1 & a qu>t] ( an in* l>g] all r\nd ?an ! tip ( ! hat4 ,^! two pieces are to be sew$ toge!r by h& face to face1 ! edges be+ fold$ back1 & ! plu% put well ?r\gh to ! prop] side ) ! ne$le z ! sew]s proce$1 s t ! seam :5 ! hat is f9i%$ may n appe> b>e = want ( plu%4 ,9 f9i%+1 :e!r ! hat body be ( fur or gossam]1 ! fir/ ?+ is ! putt+ on ( ! "u brim1 :i* we %all suppose to be plu%1 sat91 or m]9o4 ,a /rip is cut f ! web or piece at ab\t an angle ( =ty-five degrees1 & hav+ ! l5g? r$uc$ to suit ! size ( ! hat2 ! two ends are !n sew$ toge!r1 & hav+ be5 laid on ! hat1 "o ( ! edges is made fa/ to ! edge ( ! brim ) ! iron1 all r\nd1 & smoo?ly laid d[n1 ! bias all[+ ?is to be done by /ret*+4 ,x is next to be /eam$ ) a damp clo? "u ! hot iron & ! inn] edge /uck inside ( ! hat ) ! nose ( ! iron4 ,! upp] brim is next 9 ord]4 ,a /rip ( silk plu% ! requisite wid? is run on1 slightly1 9 mu* ! same mann] z ) ! "u brim1 b disp5s+ ) bo? ! clo?-/eam+ & (t5 ) ! sew+4 ,! "o end ( ?is upp] brim be+ cut ) ! scissors & ! o!r ) ! knife1 a good invisible seam may be made4 ,! brims be+ n[ on1 ! tip ( ! hat is wett$ inside1 & ! block put 94 ,! silk plu% cov]1 hav+ be5 previ\sly spread ) gum tragacan?1 ab\t :]e ! side seam is likely to be1 & n[ dry1 is c>efully drawn ov] ! cr[n & fitt$ to ! hat2 ! two ends ( ! cov] be+ fold$ back & m>k$ = ! seam4 ,! cov] is !n remov$1 ! plu% bru%$ back at ! fold+1 & ! clo? cut = ! seam ) a pair ( %>p scissors2 ! top ( ! seam is clean$ or dress$ (f & ! cov] replac$ on ! hat body4 ,! tip & side cr[n are n[ to be /uck ) ! hot iron to ! body ) p>ticul> c>e1 s z to make a good jo9+ at ! seam1 & n to draw ?r\gh ! v>ni%4 ,! mak+ ( a good seam is ! te/ ( a good workman4 ,! dress+ & poli%+ ( ! hat n[ comm5ce2 & :ile x rema9s ^u ! block1 ?is is done by means ( bru%es1 wett+s1 iron+s1 c41 once1 twice1 or ?ree times 9 succession1 aft] :i* x is fix$ on ! velur+ ma*9e :]e x is revolv$ rapidly1 = ! purpose ( free+ ! nap ( all impurities by means ( ! hair-clo? velures t are appli$4 ,! hat is next tak5 back to ! b5*1 :]e x receives its f9al dry-iron+1 velur+1 c41 & ! cr[n is pap]$ up4 ,! brim is yet to be f9i%$1 :i* is done by h&1 ) ! bru%es1 sponge1 iron1 c41 & made to %9e l ! cr[n2 aft] ?is x is giv5 to ! trimm] to be trimm$ & b\nd1 :5 x comes back to be curl$ & prop]ly %ap$ 9 ! brim1 suit+ ! ta/e ( ! we>]4 ,! workman :o gives ! hat its f9al t\*es makes use ( a numb] ( tools1 :i*1 ?\gh ( seem+ly trifl+ appe>ance1 are nev]!less necess>y = 8 dep>tm5t1 :i* requires a ref9$ ta/e4 ,=m+ ,ma*9es4 ,su* is hat-mak+1 b we _c conclude )\t rem>k+ t !re h be5 _m pat5ts grant$ 9 ?is & o!r c\ntries = improvem5ts 9 hatt+1 t we _c notice4 ,nev]!less !re are two1 ( decid$ m]it1 claim+ att5tion1 z hav+ entirely revolutioniz$ "o-half ( ! mak+ dep>tm5t1 & :i* may be modifi$ & ext5d$ to answ] _m purposes1 9 addition to t ( hat-mak+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,=m+ ,ma*9e = ,fur ,hat ,bodies4 ,! fir/ & mo/ +5i\s is call$ ! pneumatic process ( =m+ ! bodies1 h5ce 9 all l>ge cities ! b[+ op]ation is n employ$4 ,x is z foll[s3 ,a cone ( %eet copp] pun*$ full ( small holes1 & set upright1 revolves sl[ly ^u its axis2 b5ea? ?is or atta*$ to x an exhau/+ fan is plac$1 caus+ by its rotation a curr5t ( air to draw ?r\gh ! holes f ! outside4 ,a trunk or box ) an op5+ fac+ aga9/ ?is revolv+ cone1 dis*>ges ! fur :i* is f$ into x at ! o!r end by a fe$+ apron1 9 quantity j suffici5t = "o hat-body4 ,x is drawn into ?is trunk betwe5 two roll]s t are cov]$ ) lea!r or felt1 & imm$iately seiz$ by a cyl9d] revolv+ ab\t f\r hundr$ times 9 a m9ute1 furni%$ ) a numb] ( /iff bru%es4 ,?is g5]ates a curr5t ( air :i* scatt]s ! fur & bl[s x out ( ! m\? ( ! trunk1 :]e float+ 9 ! air x is spe$ily drawn ^u ! p]=at$ cone1 & ev5ly spread ov] ! top & sides ( ! same1 9 quantity en\gh = "o hat-body 9 s _m revolutions4 ,! dis*>g+ trunk is s adju/$ t any desir$ quantity ( fur c be deposit$ on any p>ticul> portion ( ! cone4 ,:5 ! cone has got ! fur = "o hat-body1 ! workman wraps ov] x a wet clo? & slips a metallic cov] ov] ! :ole1 :i* he removes into a tank ( hot wat]4 ,a new cone is imm$iately set 9 its place to receive ano!r coat+ ( fur4 ,! hot wat] into :i* x has be5 dipp$ t5ds to make ! mat m t5aci\s1 :i* is next slipp$ (f ! cone1 tak5 to a table1 g5tly work$ by h&-roll+ 9 a piece ( blanket1 squeez$ & press$1 & fold$ into a conv5i5t %ape & s5t to ! regul> hatt] to be felt$ at ! ord9>y plank kettle4 ,! co/ ( hat-bodies is r$uc$1 x is comput$1 by ?is process z five or six to "o ( ! old b[+ sy/em1 & ! rapidity ( production is z ?irty to "o4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,=m+ ,ma*9e = ,wool ,hat ,bodies4 ,x w n h escap$ obs]vation t ?is +5i\s piece ( ma*9]y is applicable only = fur1 ! filam5ts ( :i* are %ort & less incl9$ to tangle ?an ^? ( wool1 b ano!r & no less useful piece ( me*anism has be5 inv5t$ = =m+ ! bodies ( wool hats1 & l ! o!r has entirely sup]s$$ ! use ( ! b[ 9 all l>ge factories :]e wool hats are made4 ,x consi/s ( a modifi$ common c>d+ ma*9e1 ! sliv] f :i* is conduct$ to a set ( d\ble conical blocks t are plac$ base to base1 & :i* sl[ly revolve ^u _! axes 9 front ( ! c>d+ ma*9e1 & ! sliv] is receiv$ & w\nd ^u ^! comb9$ blocks to ! requir$ ?ickness1 suffici5t = "o hat1 bo? blocks be+ cov]$ at ! same "t4 ,?is ma*9e :i* c>ries ! blocks has a horizontal vibratory motion1 or sway+ backw>ds & =w>ds1 t enables ! sliv] to be w\nd 9 a sy/ematic mann] on ! cones1 ) a v>i$ ?ickness ( mat]ial = brims & cr[ns1 & caus+ also ! fibres ( ! wool to lie 9 a diagonal position1 z lay] ^u lay] cov]s ! blocks4 ,! bodies ( ! two hats1 ea* ( a conical figure1 are ?us made ov] ! surface ( a d\ble cone :i* are sep>at$ by cutt+ !m along _! middle or base l9e1 & slipp+ !m (f at ! end4 ,!y are n[ ready to be wett$1 %runk1 & felt$ 9 ! usual mann] by ! regul> hatt]4 ,%oes & ,gait]s ( ,felt4 ,we w "h describe ! mak+ ( felt$ gait]s & %oes1 :i* is simil> to ! art ( hatt+4 ,!re may be o!r & bett] me?ods1 z ! expansive /ret*+ nature ( felt may admit ( o!r modes4 ,! we>] ( ^! gait]s may walk ^u ! slipp]y pavem5t ) com=t & full confid5ce1 & if furni%$ ) a lea!r or rubb] "u-sole1 !y are a neat1 easy1 com=table cov] = ! feet4 ,a giv5 quantity ( wool calculat$ = "o pair ( %oes is weigh$ out1 :i* is divid$ into f\r equal portions1 two ( !m = ea* %oe4 ,"o at a "t is laid ^u ! hurdle1 & ) ! prop] b[ x is b[$ z if = a hat1 & dispos$ ( 9 exactly an equilat]al triangle1 :i* be+ ga!r$ toge!r ) ! basket1 is press$1 & tempor>ily solidifi$1 laid aside1 & ! o!r portion treat$ 9 ! same mann]4 ,a piece ( co>se br[n pap] is n[ fold$ into a triangul> %ape1 a little small] ?an ! bats j b[$2 all ! ?ree edges are to be fold$ toge!r ) ! pap] inclos$4 ,! use ( ! inclos$ pap] is to prev5t ! inn] surfaces f felt+ toge!r1 & to keep ! inside op54 ,! int5d$ %oe is next lapp$ 9 a %eet ( clo?1 & h>d5$ at ! hot bas9 7! bas9 is a disk ( solid iron ) a fire b5ea?74 ,wat] spr9kl$ on ! %eet :5 turn$ ^u ! bas91 s5ds /eam all ?r\gh ! mass1 & :5 rubb$ slightly by h&1 friction is communicat$ to ! surface fibres1 :i* 9 a %ort "t become smoo?1 :5 ! position ( ! triangul> wool %\ld be *ang$ & ! rubb+ cont9u$4 ,a few cross+s & rubb+s give x a consi/5ce suffici5t = h&l+ at ! plank kettle1 :]e we %all suppose bo? %oes to h arriv$4 ,! felt+ op]ation at ! kettle is p]=m$ 9 q ! same mann] z t ( a hat1 by press+1 roll+1 fold+1 & unfold+1 c41 ) its dipp+s into ! hot wat]1 until ! mat]ial has assum$ a h>dness & solidity q a/oni%+ to ! casual obs]v]4 ,?is op]ation f9i%$1 ! %oe /ill 9 ! triangul> %ape1 "o corn] is n[ to be cut (f to make an op5+1 & ! conf9$ pap] tak5 out1 :i* is q a soggy spongy lump ( pulp4 ,! mate to ?is %oe hav+ be5 advanc$ to ! same =w>dness1 !y are to be pull$ ^u _! respective la/s & dri$1 & p]haps dy$1 aft] :i* !y are p\nc$1 & f9ally trimm$4 ,pr9t]s' ,%eets4 ,! mak+ ( %eet felt = calico & o!r pr9t]s is a bus9ess t fell into ! h&s ( ! hatt]s at ! introduction ( ! wat]-pro(+ ( hats1 z previ\s to t "t ! ?ick /\t old hats ( =m] times 7 q suffici5tly ?ick = ! fitt+s ( _! blocks1 s t :5 no m ( !m c\ld be gott51 rec\rse 0 _h to ! new article1 al?\gh x %\ld be at a slight sacrifice4 ,felt is employ$ 9 ?is bus9ess because ( ! facility ) :i* x lifts & c>ries f ! color sieve1 ! colors t are to be appli$ to ! clo?4 ,wood & ,copp] blocks or roll]s require two diff]5t ?icknesses ( felt1 & ?\gh v>i\s qualities are made1 a solid body & cle> smoo? surface & edge :5 cut & p\nc$ by ! block-cutt]1 are absolutely necess>y1 z o!rwise1 a ragg$ edge to ! pr9t$ figures on ! clo? w be ! result4 ,! foll[+ makes a v good article3-- #g ozs4 be/ backs ( coney wool1 & #f ozs4 ( ,saxony lamb's wool4 ,! coney is fir/ well brok5 ov] ) a light b[1 ^u ! hurdle1 & !n by means ( ! heavi] wool b[1 ! well-c>d$ ,saxony is intimately mix$ ) x4 ,?is ?or\ghly accompli%$1 ! :ole is to be divid$ into two portions2 ! "o a little heavi] ?an ! o!r1 :i* is laid ^u ! hurdle1 & ) ! same wool b[1 /rung ) /\t] cat-gut1 ! hatt] disposes ( ! mixture 9 a p]fectly ev5 flat =m1 ( an oblong squ>e1 :i* :5 ga!r$ by ! hatt]'s basket1 measures #ah in*es wide by #c feet long4 ,a clo? is !n spread ov] x1 & ! :ole turn$ upside d[n2 ! sides & ends ( ! clo? are lapp$ ov]1 s t ?is bat z x is call$ is completely envelop$4 ,a /iff sk9 is n[ ?r[n ov] x1 & press$ & rubb$ = "s "t 9 an ev5 mann]1 to r$uce its ?ickness4 ,! sk9 hav+ be5 remov$1 ! %eet ) its bat is roll$ & press$ /ill m1 !n laid aside :ile ! o!r half und]goes exactly ! same op]ation1 b is made ?ree in*es %ort] 9 l5g?4 ,^! two %eets1 :i* are de/9$ to =m b "o1 are connect$ ?us4 ,! %ort] is fir/ fold$ ov] ^u itself1 & ! two ends jo9$ by ov]lapp+ ) a prop] inlay] ( pap]2 !n ! l>g] bat is laid ^u ?is "o1 & ! :ole turn$ upside d[n1 s t ! jo9+s ( ! two bats w be ^u opposite sides ( ! %eet ( felt4 ,aft] ^! jo9+s are c>efully made1 ! w\ld-be %eet appe>s exactly l a lady's muff1 & is aga9 to be envelop$ 9 ! clo?1 = ! h>d5+ process1 at ! hot bas91 :]e x receives a p>tial /eam+1 rubb+1 re-fold+1 c41 till f9ally x is c>ri$ to ! plank kettle1 :]e ! sev]e/ labor mu/ be appli$2 ! object be+ to cond5se ! mat]ials ( :i* x is made to ! utmo/ degree ( t5sion4 ,x is !n cut op51 dri$1 & receives an application ( a weak solution ( size2 :5 aga9 dry x is well p\nc$ ) pumice /one1 & ! edges cut /raight1 :i* f9i%es a fir/ class pr9t]s' %eet ( felt1 ! size be+ #cc or #cc-a_/b in*es long by #ab in*es wide4 ,%eets = copp] blocks or roll]s require a ?ickness ( a qu>t] ( an in*1 & ^? = wood ?ree-sixte5?s ( an in*4 ,"s pref] a %eet altoge!r ( ,saxony wool4 ,clo? ,hats4 ,aft] ! introduction ( gutta-p]*a into ! arts1 & ! manufacture ( x into ?9 %eet+1 a new k9d ( hat 0 introduc$1 made ( gutta-p]*a clo?1 & f ! v>iety ( %ades1 c4 seem$ = "s "t to sup]s$e ! s(t l[-cr[n$ ,,felt article4 ,b ! cupidity ( "s ( ! manufactur]s de/roy$ ! bus9ess almo/ entirely :5 9 its infancy1 "s say purposely1 by mak+ !m s v inf]ior & at ! same "t s p]fect a c\nt]feit1 t ! really good & p]fectly made hat became univ]sally di/ru/$1 & h5ce ! result4 ,we %all refra9 f all notice ( ! me?ods employ$ t5d+ to ?is det]ioration ( ! new article1 & m]ely describe ! mak+ ( ! hone/1 s\nd1 & valid hat1 ! revival or resuscitation ( :i* is well wor?y ( consid]ation4 ,a dry1 ?91 & s(t fur or wool body is to be drawn ^u ! prop] block1 g5]ally #c or #d in*es deep ) ei!r a squ>e or r\nd cr[n1 & ! brim spread out ^u ! b5* or bottom bo>d4 ,a circul> piece ( gutta-p]*a gum ! size ( ! int5d$ brim1 hav+ its c5tre cut out1 is to be slipp$ ov] ! cr[n d[n on to ! felt brim2 a simil> piece ( good clo? is likewise slipp$ ov] 9 ! same mann] to cov] ! gum1 & n[ ! extreme out] edges ( ! felt & clo? are to be c>efully cem5t$ toge!r by means ( ! gum1 by pass+ r\nd a hot iron4 ,! usual /irrup or bridle is !n ?r[n ov] ! hat1 gird+ ! inn] edge ( ! clo? to ! block1 & /uck ) ! heel ( ! iron4 ,?is p>tially /uck brim is f9ally ov]laid ) a wet loose brim-clo? & prop]ly iron$1 ! heat ( ! /eam f ! damp clo? s(t5s ! gutta-p]*a gum & effects ! adhesion ( ! clo? to ! fur body4 ,ab\t half an in* ( clo? w project up on ! side cr[n1 :i* is also made to adh]e to ! felt body by ! heat$ iron4 ,! block is n[ to be )drawn1 & ! hat turn$ inside out1 :i* rev]ses ?is w\ld-be upp] brim to ! "u side4 ,! hat is next to be re-block$1 a repetition ( ! gum & clo? is to be appli$ to ?is side ( ! brim exactly z ) ! o!r1 & !n succe$s ! cov]+ ( ! cr[n1 :i* is to be :olly laid ov] fir/ ) ! gutta-p]*a & !n ) ! previ\sly prep>$ clo? cov] z a cr[n piece1 ^! be+ held tight by means ( ! block+-cord4 ,! :ole cr[n1 bo? tip & sides1 is to be cem5t$ & f9i%$1 nev] omitt+ ! wet f9i%+-clo? betwe5 ! hat & ! hot iron1 & ! hat is n[ complete & ready = l9+ & trimm+4 ,! above makes a good s(t pliable clo? hat4 ,b if a /iff] & firm] hat is want$ ( ! same mat]ial1 ! felt body is to be put ?r\gh ! process ( ! alkal9e ba?1 simil> to t ( fur hats1 & :5 dry1 proce$$ ) z above4 ,ano!r me?od ( mak+ ^! clo? hats is to disp5se ) ! fur body entirely1 ! block be+ cov]$ ) two ?icknesses ( clo? & hav+ a ply ( gutta-p]*a gum betwe51 :i* are cem5t$ toge!r by /eam+ & press+1 us+ at all times a wet clo? "u ! hot iron4 ,! brim is sep>ate & di/9ct f ! cr[n :5 made1 & consi/s ( a piece ( ?ick wool padd+1 :i* is to be cov]$ on bo? sides ) ! prop] clo?1 cem5t$ toge!r ) ! gum1 fir/ "o side & !n ! o!r1 aft] :i* ! cr[n & brim are sew$ toge!r4 ,9 all ^! cases1 ! gutta-p]*a gum acts n only z a cem5t b also a wat]-pro(+ to ! hat4 ,conclusion4 ,9 ?is treatise ^u ! hi/ory ( hats & hat-mak+1 ( furs1 wools1 c41 & ! manufacture ( felt1 we are well aw>e ( ! impossibility ( illu/rat+ 9 full ! hatt+ trade ( ,am]ica1 z ?is c\ntry /&s alone z comp>$ ) o!rs1 on acc\nt ( ! mix$ population t is "h collect$4 ,z we h repres5tatives 9 ?is1 z 9 e o!r l9e ( bus9ess1 f e civiliz$ nation ^u e>?1 ) all _! v>i\s me?ods ( work+ 9 _! own accu/om$ ways1 ! prejudices naturally eng5d]$ & ent]ta9$ ?r\gh habit be+ h>d to combat1 s t ! judges ( ?is "w may be num]\s & v>i\s1 & no d\bt pr(usely sev]e 9 "s ( _! criticisms4 ,b !re is go+ on a rapid amalgamation ( all t is be/ 9 ! trade ( hatt+1 result+ f ! cont9u$ fl[ ( immigration1 & height5$ greatly by ! w&]+s ( hatt]s g5]ally1 f %op to %op1 & f t[n to t[n1 t mu/ ultimately br+ toge!r 9 ?is our belov$ l&1 a p]fection 9 ! trade t _c be atta9$ by any o!r nation4 ,,footnotes4 ,a ,! mo/ famili> in/ance ( mutual association & comb9ation1 result+ 9 real utility1 ?\gh n s /rik+ on acc\nt ( our famili>ity ) x1 is ! broadclo? ( :i* our clo!s are made1 :i* :5 cut by ! tailor w nev] unravel4 ,?is result is :olly ! effect ( its felt+ 9 ! full+ mill dur+ ! op]ation ( sc\r+ & wa%+1 e fibre ( ! wool ( :i* ! clo? is made1 hav+ clung to its imm$iate neighbors1 bo? w>p & weft1 & ) ! _s ( true fri5d%ip !y /ill rema9 9 ea* o!r's embrace1 & ! clo? is trans=m$ f a loose to a solid fabric4 ,ano!r in/ance ( ! p[] ( comb9ation is ! my/]i\s ,gordian knot t we read ( 9 hi/ory1 :i* promis$ ! empire ( ! _w to him :o c\ld unloose x1 & :i* ,alex&] ! ,great is report$ to h cut ) 8 sword1 because he fail$ 9 ! attempt4 ,if n a fabul\s /ory1 t comp\nd knot ! illu/ri\s ,gordius is suppos$ to h cunn+ly felt$ previ\s to hang+ x up 9 ! temple4 ,b ,! reason :y wool & wooll5 goods felt & solidify m readily ?an any /raight fibr$ furs1 is ow+ to ! natural curl or frizzle possess$ by wool1 ea* & e b5d ( e individual filam5t assum+ an incl9ation = travel indep5d5t ( ea* o!r & ( ! g5]al incl9ation ( ! p]fect fibre4 ,c ,hatt]s' kettles = ,,fur hatt+ are made ( copp]1 z !y take less fir+ ?an ^? t are made ( lead4 ,b lead mu/ be ! metal if sulphuric acid1 no matt] 9 h[ small quantity1 is us$ 9 ! wat]4 ,x is g5]ally resort$ to by ! m5 9 siz+ ,,wool hats1 z x facilitates ! felt+ op]ation4 ,?is acid 7vitriol71 hav+ no aff9ity = lead1 does n affect ! kettle1 :ile x w\ld soon eat ! "o ( copp] ?r\gh4 ,c>e1 h[ev]1 mu/ be tak5 t no /one be let fall into ! wat] ( ! lead kettle1 = a hole w soon result f su* an accid5t4 ,d ,z e hat mu/ be f9i%$ ^u a block ( "s p>ticul> =m1 ^u :i* ! hat assumes ! exact c\nt]p>t1 x becomes necess>y ) ^? hav+ broad tops1 t ! block be 9 five sep>ate pieces1 s z to get !m out or into ! hat1 ! c5tre piece act+ z a w$ge to ! :ole4 ,,index4 ,acid aids full+1 #ba ,alkali /iff1 #cc ,analysis ( hair1 #ab ,anci5t hats1 #bf ,basket1 hat1 #dj ,batt]y = siz+1 #da ,blea*+ ( hair1 #ad ,block = hats1 #dg ,block+1 #dg ,bl[+ ma*9e1 #ce ,body mak+1 #da ,b[+1 #ci ,b[-p91 #ci ,broadclo?1 prop]ties (1 #ai ,c>d9al's hats1 #bf ,c>rot+1 #bi ,cassim]e hats1 #dh ,*emical analysis ( hair1 #ab ,clo? hats1 #fc ,color+1 #dg ,conclusion1 #fe ,con/ruction ( hair1 #af ,cotton1 :y x does n felt1 #ag ,description ( furs1 wools1 hair1 c41 #aa ,dress+1 #ef ,dye+1 #dg ,dyes1 #dh ,elizabe?1 ,que51 pat5t1 #bh ,famili> pro(s ( felt+1 #ag ,fa%ions1 #bh ,felt+1 #ad famili> pro(s (1 #ag inv5tor (1 #bg :5 inv5t$1 #bb ,felt made by ,turcomans1 #ba uses (1 #bb ,fe/ival ( hatt]s1 #bi ,f9e wool1 introduction into ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 #bc ,f9i%+1 #di ,fir/ acc\nt ( hatt]s1 #bg ,fl[+ nap1 #dc ,=m+1 #ef ma*9es1 #eg-ei ,full+1 #ad acid aids1 #ba mill1 #bd oil prev5ts1 #ba process (1 #be soap aids1 #ba ,fur1 k9ds (1 #bj qualities (1 #ad ,furs1 description (1 #aa h[ prep>$1 #bi inf]ior articles employ$ )1 #bb l[ prices ( 9 e>ly times1 #bc ,gait]s ( felt1 #fj ,glue1 pelts us$ =1 #ca ,goods1 %r9k+ (1 #ae ,gordian knot1 #ai ,gossam] hats1 #ec ,grease prev5ts full+1 #ba ,hair balls 9 ! /oma*1 #ai blea*+ (1 #ad *emical analysis (1 #ab con/ruction (1 #af description (1 #aa h[ x gr[s1 #ab peculi> prop]ties (1 #ae :y x felts1 #ad ,hairs1 numb] (1 #ag ,hat basket1 #dj block1 #dg b[1 #ci iron1 #di ,hats1 anci5t1 #bf c>d9al's1 #bf cassim]e1 #dh clo?1 #fc hi/ory (1 #be manufacture (1 #cf sc>let1 #bf ,spani%1 #bh ,hatt]s' fe/ival1 #bi fir/ acc\nt (1 #bg kettles1 #df ,hatt+1 hi/ory (1 #be 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 #bg silk1 #eb ,hi/ory ( hats & hatt+1 #be ,h[ hair felts1 #ad hair gr[s1 #ab to judge ( ! quality ( wool1 #bc ,inf]ior articles employ$ ) furs1 #bb ,introductory rem>ks1 #i ,introduction ( f9e wool into ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 #bc ,inv5tion ( felt+1 #bb ,inv5tor ( felt+1 #bg ,kettles1 #df ,k9ds ( fur1 #bj ,manufacture ( hats1 #cf ,mat]ials1 prep>ation (1 #bi = hats1 #bj ,nap1 fl[+1 #dc ,napp+1 #de ,numb] ( hairs1 #ag ,oil prev5ts full+1 #ba ,pat5t1 ,que5 ,elizabe?'s1 #bh ,peculi> prop]ties ( hair1 #ae ,pelts us$ = glue1 c41 #ca ,plank+1 #db ,pneumatic process1 #eh ,poli%+1 #ef ,p\nc+1 #dh ,prep>ation ( mat]ials1 #bi ,prices ( furs 9 e>ly times1 #bc ,pr9t]s' %eets1 #fa ,process ( full+1 #be ,prop]ties ( broadclo?1 #ai ,pull+1 #bi ,pumic+1 #dh ,qualities ( fur1 #ad ,quality ( wool1 h[ judg$1 #bc ,quantity ( /uff = a hat1 #ch ,que5 ,elizabe?'s pat5t1 #bh ,receipts = /iffs1 #cd ,ruff+1 #de ,sc>let hats1 #bf ,secretage1 #bi ,%av+1 #dd ,%ellac-/iff1 #cc ,%oes ( felt1 #fj ,%r9k+ ( goods1 #ae ,silk hatt+1 #eb ,siz+1 #db ,soap aids full+1 #ba ,spani% hats1 #bh ,/iff5+1 #ca process1 #dd ,/iffs1 #ca1 #cc1 #cd ,/ock+s1 wool1 #ah ,/oma*1 hair balls 91 #ai ,/uff1 quantity ( = a hat1 #ch ,turcomans1 felt made by1 #ba ,unit$ ,/ates1 hatt+ 91 #bg ,uses ( felt1 #bb ,wat]-pro(+ mat]ials1 #ca ,:5 felt+ 0 inv5t$1 #bb ,:5 f9e wool 0 introduc$ into ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 #bc ,:y cotton does n felt1 #ag hair felts1 #ad ,wire hoop = brims1 #ea ,wool1 f9e1 introduction into ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 #bc ,wool1 h[ to judge ( ! quality1 #bc ,wools1 description (1 #aa ,wool /ock+s1 #ah 99 99 99 99 99 ,,transcrib]',s ,,notes4 ,sev5 occurr5ces ( etc4 h be5 *ang$ to c4 on pages #bi 7twice71 #da1 #ef 7?ree times71 & #fh4 ,page #g1 ,pr9t]'s *ang$ to ,pr9t]s' 7,pr9t]s' %eets7 ,page #g1 *ang$ ,puff+ to ,ruff+ 7,ruff+ or napp+7 ,page #aj1 add$ ( 7dissem9ation z correct1 ( t :i*7 ,page #ae1 !n *ang$ to ?an 7m readily ?an7 ,page #af1 add$ ( 7c\nt+ ! numb] ( ^!7 ,page #ai1 broad-clo? *ang$ to broadclo? 7! broadclo? ( :i*7 ,page #bc1 ,britian *ang$ to ,brita9 7,great ,brita91 or7 ,page #bi1 too *ang$ to two 7nipp$ betwe5 two revolv+7 ,page #bi1 rolls *ang$ to roll]s 7& ! roll]s plac$7 ,page #cb1 wat]pro( *ang$ to wat]-pro( 7light1 & wat]-pro(7 ,page #cc1 wat]pro(+ *ang$ to wat]-pro(+ 7& wat]-pro(+7 ,page #dj1 ov]lap+ *ang$ to ov]lapp+ 7toge!r by ov]lapp+7 ,page #dc1 %orly *ang$ to %ortly 7w %ortly be describ$7 ,page #dd1 clo?like *ang$ to clo?-l 7smoo? & clo?-l7 ,page #de1 wat]pro(+ *ang$ to wat]-pro(+ 7( wat]-pro(+7 ,page #di1 s++ *ang$ to s+e+ 7z ! s+e+ (7 ,page #ec1 ves el *ang$ to vessel 7ano!r vessel conta9+7 ,page #fa1 wat]pro(+ *ang$ to wat]-pro(+ 7wat]-pro(+ (7