,,*ats ,,on ,,co/ume ,,uni=m ,,) ,,?is ,,volume ,fully ,illu/rat$1 & ) ,col\r$ ,frontispieces4 #es4 net ,,*ats ,,on ,,old ,,*9a ,by ,,ar?ur ,,hayd5 ,,second ,,edition4 ,revis$1 ) _m ,new ,illu/rations4 ,a h&some h&book t ! amateur 9 d\bt w f9d useful1 & ! *9a-lov] w enjoy = its illu/rations1 & = ! au?or's obvi\s love & und]/&+ ( 8 subject4--,/4 ,james's ,gazette4 ,all lov]s ( *9a w f9d mu* ent]ta9m5t 9 ?is volume4--,daily ,news4 ,x gives 9 a few pi?y *apt]s j :at ! beg9n] wants to "k ab\t ! pr9cipal v>ieties ( ,engli% w>e4 ,we c w>mly comm5d ! book to ! *9a collector4--,pall ,mall ,gazette4 ,,*ats ,,on ,,old ,,furniture ,by ,,ar?ur ,,hayd5 ,! h9ts to collectors are ! be/ & cle>e/ we h se52 s t altoge!r ?is is a model book ( its k9d4--,a!num4 ,a useful & in/ructive volume4--,spectator4 ,an abundance ( illu/rations completes a well-writt5 & well-con/ruct$ hi/ory4--,daily ,news4 ,mr4 ,hayd5's ta/e is s\nd & 8 k ?or\gh4--,scotsman4 ,%\ld be z indisp5sable to collectors & lov]s ( antique furniture z ! au?or's ',*ats on ,old ,*9a' is to connoisseurs ( old *9a4--,lady's ,pictorial4 ,,*ats ,,on ,,old ,,pr9ts ,by ,,ar?ur ,,hayd5 7,9 ,prep>ation7 ,,london3 ,t4 ,,fi%] ,,unw9 ,illu/ration3 ,,miss ,,ell5 ,,t]ry z ,,lady ,,macbe?1 ,,by ,j4 ,s4 ,,s>g5t1 ,r4,a4 7,reproduc$ by k9d p]mission ( ! ,arti/47 ,,*ats ,,on ,,co/ume ,,by ,g4 ,,woolliscr(t ,,rhead1 ,r4,e4 ,,au?or ,,( ,,! ,,treatm5t ,,( ,,drap]y ,,9 ,,art1 ,,! ,,pr9ciples ,,( ,,design1 ,a ,,h&book ,,( ,,et*+1 ,,/udies ,,9 ,,plant ,,=m1 ,,etc41 ,,etc4 ,,) #aag ,,illu/rations1 ,,includ+ #ce ,,l9e ,,draw+s ,,by ,,! ,,au?or ,illu/ration ,,london ,t4 ,,fi%] ,,unw9 ,,adelphi ,,t]race #aijf 7,all rights res]v$47 ,,preface ,ne$less to say ! pres5t "w is f> f exhau/+ ! subject ( co/ume1 :i* ext5ds1 inde$1 ov] ! :ole field ( hi/ory4 ,= reasons ( space1 nei!r ecclesia/ical nor milit>y co/ume is t\*$ ^u4 ,! book makes no pret5sions to be+ any?+ m ?an :at its title sugge/s--a s]ies ( *ats ^u a subject :i* fills a consid]able place 9 ! m9ds (1 at any rate1 ! l>g] half ( ! community4 ,:ile _m works g]mane to ! subject ( co/ume h1 ( necessity1 be5 "h l>gely drawn ^u 9 ! way ( quotation1 !re w1 at ! same "t1 be f\nd a c]ta9 proportion ( :at may be describ$ z fre% mat]ial1 ! result ( ! au?or's acqua9tance ) ! subject 9 8 individual practice z an arti/4 ,inde$1 ! subject ( dress is1 or %\ld be1 an arti/ic matt]2 x 0 s 9 ! pa/1 & x w aga91 9 ! v ne> future1 come to be recognis$ z "o ( ! ,decorative ,arts1 requir+ arti/ic k1 & "s p]ception ( ! fundam5tal laws ( ,design4 ,! au?or's ?anks are p>ticul>ly due to ,mr4 ,j4 ,s4 ,s>g5t1 ,r4,a41 = 8 k9d p]mission to reproduce 8 portrait ( ,miss ,ell5 ,t]ry4 ,illu/ration3 ,,william1 ,,duke ,,( ,,juli]s ,,& ,,cleves4 ,by ,aldegrev]4 ,,cont5ts ,,page ,,preface #e ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations #i ,,bibliography #ae ,,*at ,i4 ,a ,,g5]al ,,survey #ag ,,ii4 ,,! ,,tunic #ei ,,iii4 ,,! ,,mantle #ha ,,iv4 ,,! ,,d\blet ,,& ,,hose #aji ,v4 ,,! ,,kirtle ,,or ,,petticoat #acc ,,vi4 ,,! ,,rise ,,& ,,fall ,,( ,,! ,,cr9ol9e #aeg ,,vii4 ,,coll>s ,,& ,,cuffs #agi ,,viii4 ,,hats1 ,,caps1 ,,& ,,bonnets #bjc ,,ix4 ,,! ,,dress+ ,,( ,,! ,,hair1 ,,m\/a*ios1 ,,& ,,be>d #bce ,x4 ,,boots1 ,,%oes1 ,,& ,,o!r ,,cov]+s ,,= ,,! ,,feet #bgi ,,index #cjb ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations ,,portrait ,,( ,,miss ,,ell5 ,,t]ry ,,z ,,lady ,,macbe?1 ,frontispiece by ,j4 ,s4 ,,s>g5t1 ,r4,a4 ,,horn$ ,,head-,,dress3 ,,beatrice1 ,,c\ntess ,,( ,,arundel1 #adci ,title-page ,,page ,,duke ,,( ,,juli]s ,,& ,,cleves 7,,aldegrev]7 #f ,,*at ,i4--,a ,,g5]al ,,survey4 ,head+ #ai ,! ,comte d',artois & ,mademoiselle ,clo?ilde #ba ,*>les ,h[>d1 ,e>l ( ,nott+ham #bc ,ludovicus ,rex1 by ,?ack]ay #bg ,travell+ 9 a ,horse-litt] 7f a ,f\rte5? ,c5tury ,,ms47 #ca ,william ,,iii4 #ce ,que5 ,m>y #ci ,c>icature3 ,pig ,walk+ ^u ,/ilts 7,h>leian ,,ms47 #dc ,c>icature3 ,w+$ ,devil 7,cotton ,,ms47 #dc ,du*ess ( ,anca/] 7aft] ,hudson7 #dg ,damask 9 ,silk & ,gold 7,s>ac5ic7 #ej ,v5etian ,fabric 7,?irte5? ,c5tury7 #ea ,london ,prom5ade ,dress1 #ahcf #ee ,,*at ,,ii4--,,! ,,tunic4 ,tunic1 ,petticoat1 & ,girdle 7,jutl&7 #fb ,hunef] & 8 ,wife 7,book ( ! ,dead1 c4 ,b4,c4 #acgj7 #fc ,a ,prie/ ,burn+ ,inc5se 7,book ( ! ,dead7 #fe ,plan ( ! ,tunic #ff ,! ,tunic 7,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts7 #fg ,greek ,figure 7,ibid47 #gj ,greek ,figure 7,ibid47 #ga ,treu!'s ,pilgryme atte ,pl[ 7,tr9ity ,college1 ,cambridge7 #ge ,anglo-,saxon ,dress 7,eigh? ,c5tury7 #gf ,,*at ,,iii4--,,! ,,mantle4 ,head+3 ,! ,imp]ial ,coronation ,mantle at ,vi5na #hc ,plan ( ! ,toga #hf ,! ,toga 7,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts7 #hg ,/atue ( ,que5 ,matilda at ,ro*e/] #ia ,"l ,burleigh 7,national ,portrait ,gall]y7 #ic ,lod[ick1 ,duke ( ,ri*mond & ,l5nox #ig ,portion ( ! ,picture ( ! ,miracle ( ,/4 ,b]n>d1 ,p]ugia #ii ,pr9ce ,h5ry1 elde/ son ( ,james ,i4 #ajc ,e>l ( ,ro*e/] 7,national ,portrait ,gall]y7 #aje ,duke ( ,buck+ham #ajg ,,*at ,,iv4--,,! ,,d\blet ,,& ,,hose4 ,head+3 ,italian ,cassone 7,fifte5? ,c5tury7 #aaa ,figure by ,fior5zo di ,lor5zo1 ,p]ugia #aac ,p>is on ,m\nt ,ida 7,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts7 #aae ,anglo-,saxon ,reta9] 7,g4 ,w4 ,rhead7 #aaf ,knightly ,pa/imes3 ,hawk+1 #aege #aai ,sir ,?omas ,gre%am 7,national ,portrait ,gall]y7 #aba ,philip ,,ii4 ( ,spa9 7,national ,portrait ,gall]y7 #abc ,h5ry1 ,pr9ce ( ,wales #abe ,an ,exquisite 7f ,jacquem97 #abi ,philippe de ,v5dme #aca ,,*at ,v4--,,! ,,kirtle ,,or ,,petticoat4 ,! ,close-fitt+ ,jacket1 temp4 ,edw>d ,,iii4 7f ,viollet le ,duc7 #acg ,a ,lady ( ,basle 7,holbe97 #aci ,! ,*ildr5 ( ,*>les ,i4 #adc ,miss ,lewis #ade ,! ,gamut ( ,love 7,watteau7 #adg ,madame de ,m\*y #aea ,walk+ ,dress1 #ahaj #aeb ,prom5ade ,co/ume1 #ahcc #aed ,p>is ,ev5+ ,dress1 #ahcc #aee ,,*at ,,vi4--,,! ,,rise ,,& ,,fall ,,( ,,! ,,cr9ol9e4 ,head+3 ,figure f ,jacquem9 #aei ,que5 ,*>lotte 7aft] ,ga9sbor\gh7 #afa ,que5 ,elizabe? #afc ,james ,i4 & 8 ,que51 ,anne ( ,d5m>k #afe ,fe/al ,dress1 ,otaheite #afg ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots & ,d>nley #afi ,don't be afraid1 my de>6 #aga ,k+ & ,mrs4 ,baddeley #agc ,! ,cr9oletta ,disfigurans 7,pun*7 #agg ,,*at ,,vii4--,,coll>s ,,& ,,cuffs4 ,h5rietta1 ,m>quise d',entragues #ahb ,h5ry ,,iv4 ( ,france #ahe ,! ,infanta ,isabella ,cl>a ,eug5ia #ahg ,son ( ! ,pa9t] ,dirck de ,vries #aia ,*>les ,i4 9 ?ree views #aic ,cravats #aii ,,*at ,,viii4--,,hats1 ,,caps1 ,,& ,,bonnets4 ,head+3 ,fools 9 a ,morris ,dance #bje ,mrs4 ,anne ,w>r5 7aft] ,romney7 #bjg ,hunt+ ,hat1 ,orcagna1 ,campo ,santo1 ,pisa #baj ,hunt+ ,hat 7,ibid47 #baj ,figure ) ,long ,net-caul 7,g4 ,w4 ,rhead7 #bab ,hat1 ,fra ,angelico1 ,flor5ce #bac ,hat 7,ibid47 #bac ,he>t-%ap$ ,head-dress #baf ,horn$ ,head-dress #baf ,francis ,bacon #bai ,?omas ,killigrew #bba ,! ,developm5t ( ! ,pot ,hat #bbc ,rob]t ,dev]eux1 second ,e>l ( ,essex #bbe ,letitia ,bonap>te1 "m ( ,napoleon #bbh ,anne ,day #bbi ,two ( ! ,wigg9ses 7,gillray7 #bcj ,p>isian ,head-dresses = #ahab #bca ,fool's ,cap ( ,lea!r1 ,g]man 7,s4,k4,m47 #bcc ,,*at ,,ix4--,,! ,,dress+ ,,( ,,! ,,hair1 ,,m\/a*ios1 ,,& ,,be>d4 ,head+3 ,comb 7,italian1 ,f\rte5? ,c5tury7 #bcg ,assyrian ,bas-relief #bch ,be>d$ ,bac*us 7,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts7 #bci ,greek ,head-dresses 7,ibid47 #bda ,roman ,head-dresses 7,ibid47 #bdc ,head-dress f ,viollet le ,duc 7,fifte5? ,c5tury7 #bdh ,a ,pa9t$ ,face 7,roxburghe ,ballads7 #bea ,wig1 ,egyptian1 ,b4,c4 #aejj 7,briti% ,museum7 #bed ,beau ,field+ #beg ,hyac9! ,rigaud #bei ,ridicul\s ,ta/e2 or1 ,! ,lady's ,absurdity #bfa ,! ,fr5* ,lady 9 ,london #bfc ,head-dress 7f ,jacquem97 #bfd ,l\is ,,xvi41 ,m>ie ,anto9ette1 & ! ,dauph9 #bfi ,a ,reign+ ,mon>* #bgb ,philip ,,iv4 ( ,spa9 #bgc ,,*at ,x4--,,boots1 ,,%oes1 ,,& ,,o!r ,,cov]+s ,,= ,,! ,,feet4 ,head+3 ,%oes 7,sev5te5? & ,eighte5? ,c5turies7 #bha ,clog or ,patt5 #bhb ,roman ,s&als 7,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts7 #bhe ,s&als ( ,italian ,peasantry #bhf ,lords ,john & ,b]n>d ,/u>t #bhg ,%oes1 ,fr5* 7,fifte5? & ,sev5te5? ,c5turies7 #bij ,%oes1 ,g]man 7,sixte5? ,c5tury7 #bia ,%oes 7,sixte5? & ,sev5te5? ,c5turies1 ,muse de ,cluny7 #bic ,c>v$ ,wood5 ,%oe1 ,fr5* 7,sev5te5? ,c5tury7 #bid ,%oe1 ,dut* ,(fic] ( ,gu>ds1 #affb #bif ,%oe ( a ,muskete]1 #afig #bif ,top ,boot1 ,l\is ,,xiii41 #afaa #big ,top ,boot1 ,comte de ,soissons1 #afbh #bih ,bravoes 7,m>t9 ,s*ongau]7 #bii ,,bibliography ,anglo-,saxon ,*ronicle4 ,b>clay3 ,%ip ( ,fools ( ! ,_w1 #aejh4 ,bell's ,fa%ionable ,magaz9e1 #ahab4 ,bulw]3 ,p$igree ( ! ,engli% ,gallant4 ,c>lyle1 ,t43 ,s>tor ,res>tus2 ,fr5* ,revolution4 ,caxton3 ,! ,f\r ,sons ( ,aymon4 ,*auc]4 ,engli% ,co/ume f ,pocket-books1 #agii4 ,eg9h>t3 ,life ( ,*>lemagne1 #afai4 ,fairholt3 ,co/ume 9 ,engl&1 #ahif4 ,froiss>t's ,*ronicles1 ,h4 ,n4 ,humphreys1 #ahee4 ,gregory ( ,t\rs3 ,hi/ory ( ! ,franks4 ,gosson1 ,/eph53 ,s*oole ( ,abuse1 #aegi4 ,h>d+'s ,*ronicle1 #aedc4 ,holme1 ,r&al3 ,notes on ,dress1 c4 #affj4 ,hope1 ,t43 ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts4 ,jonson1 ,b53 ,plays4 ,john de ,meun ,romance ( ! ,rose4 ,william de ,lorris ,knight ( ,la ,t\r ,l&ry1 #acga1 ,caxton4 ,lydgate1 ,monk ( ,bury3 ,poems4 ,le ,blanc1 ,h41 ,esq43 ,! ,art ( ,ty+ ! ,cravat1 #ahbh4 ,p>is1 ,mat!w4 ,pi]s ,pl[man3 ,pi]ce ,pl\ghman's ,vision4 ,plan*3 ,briti% ,co/ume1 #ahgd2 ,cyclopdia ( ,co/ume1 #ahgg4 ,rac9et3 ,co/ume4 ,roxburghe ,ballads1 c4 #afhf4 ,/atutes3 ,h5ry ,,iii41 ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,/o?>d1 ,c43 ,monum5tal ,effigies1 #ahgg4 ,/rutt3 ,dress & ,habits ( ! ,engli% ,p1 #ahdb4 ,/ubbes3 ,anatomy ( ,abuses4 ,/[1 ,john3 ,*ronicle1 #afae4 ,/ew>t1 ,j43 ,plocacosmos1 or ! ,:ole ,art ( ,hairdress+1 #aghb4 ,viollet le ,duc3 ,dictionnaire raisonn du mobili] ,franais1 #aheh-ge4 ,wright1 ,t43 ,c>icature & ,hi/ory ( ! ,georges1 #ahfh4 ,william ( ,malmesbury4 ,i ,a ,,g5]al ,,survey ,y see two individuals1 "o dress$ 9 f9e ,r$1 ! o!r 9 co>se ?readb>e ,blue3 ,r$ says to ,blue3 ',be hang$ & anatomis$2' ,blue he>s ) a %udd]1 & 7,o wond] ( wond]s67 m>*es sorr[fully to ! gall[s2 is !re noos$-up1 vibrates 8 h\r1 & ! surgeons dissect him1 & fit 8 bones into a skeleton = m$ical purposes4 ,h[ is ?is2 or :at make ye ( y\r ,no?+ c act b :]e x is8 ,r$ has no physical hold ( ,blue1 no clut* ( him1 is n[ise 9 contact ) him3 nei!r are ^? m9i/]+ ,%]iffs & ,"l-,lieut5ants & ,hangm5 & ,tip/aves s relat$ to comm&+ ,r$1 t he c tug !m hi!r & ?i!r2 b ea* /&s di/9ct )9 8 own sk94 ,nev]!less z x is spok5 s x is done2 ! articulat$ ,^w sets all h&s 9 action2 & ,rope & ,improv$-drop p]=m _! "w4 ,?9k+ read]1 ! reason seems to me tw(old3 ,fir/1 t man is a ,_s1 & b\nd by invisible bonds to ,all ,m52 secondly1 t he we>s ,clo!s1 :i* are ! visible emblems ( t fact4 ,has n y\r ,r$ hang+-individual a horsehair wig1 squirrel-sk9s & a plu%-g[n2 :]eby all mortals "k t he is a ,judge8--,society1 :i* ! m ,i ?9k ( x a/oni%es me ! m1 is f\nd$ ^u ,clo?4 ,,c>lyle1 ,s>tor ,res>tus4 ,illu/ration ,,*ats ,,on ,,co/ume ,i ,a ,,g5]al ,,survey ,t s+ul> clo!s-philosoph]1 ,diog5es ,teufelsdrckh1 ^: revolution>y !ories ^u ! subject ( ! ve/ural tissue fir/ bur/ ^u an a/oni%$ _w "s sev5ty odd ye>s ago1 has1 ) *>act]i/ic emphasis1 drawn att5tion1 among/ o!r ?+s1 to ! fact t man is ! only animal :o is n provid$ ) "s ,nature-made protection aga9/ ! elem5ts--a protection ei!r ( fur1 fea!r1 hide1 or :at n4 ,b\nte\s ,nature1 h[ev]1 always k9d1 :o nev] )holds a good )\t af=d+ ample comp5sation1 has end[$ man ) t f]tile bra9 & cunn+ h& :]eby he may conv]t hide into lea!r1 wool ( %eep into clo?1 web ( worm into silk1 flax & cotton into l95 ( v>i\s k9ds1 & s re/ore t balance ( end[m5t )\t :i* man w\ld be at ! m]cy ( e w9d t blew4 ,! uses ( clo!s1 or co/ume--! words may be "h tak5 z synonym\s--may be said to be ?reefold3 fir/1 = dec5cy1 :i* 0 _! fir/ & app>5tly only use1 z we may assume t 9 ,ed5 ! sun always %one2 secondly1 = com=t & protection2 ?irdly1 = beauty & adornm5t4 ,fir/1 !n1 = dec5cy4 ,t is suffici5tly cle>ly e/abli%$ if we may accept ! ,mosaic acc\nt ( ! _w's juv5esc5ce3 ,& ! eyes ( bo? ( !m 7 op5$1 & !y knew t !y 7 nak$2 & !y sew$ fig leaves toge!r1 & made !mselves aprons2 ,unto ,adam also & to 8 wife did ! ,"l ,god make coats ( sk9s & clo!d !m4#a ,?is habit ( obs]vance ( ! dec5cies ( life appe>s to be common to all nations4 ,no p or tribe1 h[ev] primitive ! civilisation1 b makes "s sort ( provision 9 ?is respect4 ,! ,v$das ( ,ceylon make girdles ( leaves1 :i* gives !m a /rangely fanta/ic appe>ance4 ,we le>n f ! acc\nts ( travell]s 9 ,c5tral ,africa t clo?+1 ?\gh extremely simple1 consi/+ ( a little grass-clo?1 ornam5ts ( fea!rs1 fur1 %ells1 glass & metal beads1 are worn1 & ! sk9 is decorat$ by /ripes ( pa9t or an ext5sive s]ies ( cicatrices4 ,among ! aborig9es ( ! ,malay ,p59sula 7,sakais7 ! m5 we> a /rip ( b>k-clo? twi/$ r\nd ! wai/ & drawn betwe5 ! legs4 ,! wom5 sometimes we> small cotton-clo? petticoats 7s>ongs7 pur*as$ f ! ,malays1 & ! m5 occasionally adopt ,*9ese tr\s]s2 b 9 _! native =e/s1 h[ev]1 none ( ^! luxuries are indulg$ 94 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,comte ,d',,artois ,,& ,,mademoiselle ,,clo?ilde4 ,secondly1 = com=t & protection4 ,! climatic influ5ce on dress is1 & mu/ necess>ily be1 consid]able4 ,?is is well illu/rat$ by ! well-kn[n fable ( ,! ,w9d & ! ,sun4 ,! m boi/]\sly ! w9d bl[s1 ! m closely ! man enwraps himself ) 8 cloak2 ! m fi]cely ! sun %9es1 ! m ! man dive/s himself ( raim5t2#b b betwe5 ! sk9s ( ! ,lapl&]1 fa%ion$ by ! help ( a ?orn or a fi%bone = a ne$le1 & ! s9ews ( ! animal = ?read1 & ! light gossam] clo?+ ( ! c\ntries ( ! ,ea/ !re is a va/ range1 ! ext5t ( :i*1 inde$1 is almo/ b\ndless4 ,climate n only det]m9es ! am\nt or degree ( w>m? or o!rwise1 b also1 z 9 ar*itecture1 influ5ces its "* bo? z to =m & col\r4 ,moreov]1 clo!s are an index to ! "* or temp] ( an individual or nation4 ,:at mean+ lies 9 ,col\r6 ,if ! ,cut betok5 intellect & tal5t1 s does ! ,col\r betok5 temp] & he>t4#c ,illu/ration3 ,,*>les ,,h[>d1 ,,e>l ,,( ,,nott+ham4 ,engrav$ by ,?omas ,cockson4 ,?irdly1 = beauty & adornm5t--& x is ) ?is latt] aspect t ?is "w is ma9ly conc]n$4 ,t clo!s %\ld be beautiful is an axiom :i*1 "o w\ld ?9k1 might readily be accept$2 t clo!s h be5 beautiful is a fact :i* _c be d5i$4 7,x is only dur+ ! pres5t utilit>ian age t ! /hetic pr9ciple has be5 lo/ sight (47 ,t clo!s might aga9 be beautiful1 )\t suff]+ any loss on ! score ( utility1 is also unque/ionable4 ,to attempt to foll[ ! :ims & vag>ies ( t jade1 ,fa%ion1 ?r\gh all h] endless div]sities & con/ant *anges1 w\ld inde$ be a ,h]culean task1 & might well appal ! bolde/ he 7or %e1 = t matt]7 :o w\ld wield p5 or p5cil4 ,! w-o'-!-wisp ( ,fa%ion is1 h[ev]1 a less caprici\s p]son ?an w\ld appe> at fir/ sight4 ,!re is "s me?od 9 h] madness4 ,simil> types1 simil> decorative motifs1 appe> & reappe> ?r\gh ! c5turies ) ! regul>ity ( ! *ang+ seasons4 ,! v]aci\s *ronicl] may !re=e take "s com=t f ?is fact2 x light5s 8 burd51 & makes 8 task less difficult ?an x w\ld o!rwise be4 ,moreov]1 dress1 z 9 ar*itectural =m1 to ! c>eful /ud5t ( decorative developm5t1 pres5ts really less inh]5t v>iety ?an "o w\ld suppose2 hi/orical accuracy is ! fav\rite bugbe> ( p$ants1 &1 :ile appreciat+ to ! full ! great di/9ctiv5ess ( su* p]iods z ! ,elizabe?an1 ! ,/u>t1 & ! ,georgian1 !re are c]ta9 primitive =ms1 c]ta9 lead+ *>act]i/ics1 :i* are common to mo/ p]iods1 & :i*1 l ! poor1 are always ) u4 ,"o might haz>d ! cont5tion t a pa9t] w\ld be p]fectly safe 9 introduc+ a pot-hat & a pair ( tr\s]s at practically any p]iod ( ! _w's hi/ory--n 9 conjunction1 m9d2 no1 t glori\s consummation 0 res]v$ = ?is happy age ( ours4 ,! ,greeks1 h[ev]1 z is well kn[n1 wore tr\s]s4 ,"s =m ( ! tr\s] 0 worn by ! l[] classes at mo/ p]iods ( ,engli% hi/ory4 ,b5 ,jonson makes ,p5iboy junior walk 9 8 g[ne1 wai/coate1 & tr\ses1 expect+ 8 tailor4 ,nay1 d we n read 9 ! ,old ,te/am5t--9 "s ,old ,te/am5ts1 at any rate--t ev5 ,adam & ,eve made !mselves--ahem6--bree*es8 ,z = ! pot-hat1 its orig9 is lo/ 9 ! maze ( antiquity4 ,x crops up 9 its v>i\s developm5ts at all sorts ( odd times & p]iods4 ,a fe>some v>iety ( x is to be se5 ^u ! head ( ,jan ,arnolf9i 9 ,van ,eyck's picture 9 ! ,national ,gall]y4 ,x appe>s 9 ,dur]'s engrav+s & woodcuts1 woolly1 hairy /ructures1 occasionally ( abnormal height4 ,x is p]haps n g5]ally kn[n t x occurs 9 ! ,raphael c>toons 7,paul prea*+ at ,a!ns74 ,"o w\ld h imag9$ su* a s+ul> appe>ance z a pot-hat1 9 su* surr\nd+s1 to h be5 evid5t at fir/ sight4 ,! reason x 0 n s 0 on acc\nt ( its col\r 7v]milion74 ,_h x be5 black1 "o w\ld h spott$ x at once2 & ?is fact1 :5 "o comes to consid] x1 is a little s+ul>1 s9ce1 if "o 7 to m>* d[n ,piccadilly "s f9e aft]noon cr[n$ 9 a v]milion pot-hat1 me?9ks "o w\ld n altoge!r escape notice4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 /ill ano!r aspect ( clo!s :i* rema9s to be consid]$1 i4e41 _! symbolism4 ,x has be5 writt51 ,mann]s make? man4 ,x might also be writt5 ) ev5 a /ill great] degree ( tru?1 ,clo!s make? man1 s9ce clo!s contribute s mu* to man's dignity4 ,c>lyle f9ds x difficult to imag9e a nak$ ,duke ( ,w9dle/raw address+ a nak$ ,h\se ( ,lords1 & asks1 v p]t95tly1 ,:o ev] saw any ,"l my-lord$ 9 tatt]$ blanket fa/5$ ) a wood5 skew]8 ,8 ,k+ ,toom-tab>d 7empty g[n7 reign+ ov] ,scotl& long aft] ! man ,john ,baliol _h gone6 ,8 qua9t conceit ( a suit ( ca/ clo!s1 meekly be>+ its hon\rs1 )\t haughty looks or scornful ge/ure1 has be5 imitat$ by ,?ack]ay 9 8 amus+ illu/ration ( ,ludovicus ,rex--! sil5t dignity ( ,rex z repres5t$ by ! suit ( clo!s1 ! =lorn appe>ance ( ,ludovicus1 ! magnific5ce ( ,ludovicus ,rex1 all te/ify to ! great importance & value ( co/ume1 z contra/$ ) ! relatively trivial "* ( ! we>]4 ,:o1 !n1 %all d>e to belittle ! importance ( co/ume8 or to affirm t "* c rise sup]ior to its environm5t8 ,our subject is "o ( ! mo/ significant :i* c be pres5t$ to ! read]'s consid]ation4 ,x provides "o ( ! mo/ curi\s & fasc9at+ /udies 9 ! _w4 ,illu/ration3 ,,ludovicus ,,rex4 ,f ,p>is ,sket*es4 ,! mat]ials ^u :i* we base our k ( ! dress ( ! e>li] p]iods ( ! _w's hi/ory are necess>ily scanty4 ,= ! ,egyptian & ,assyrian p]iod we are dep5d5t ^u monum5tal inscriptions & c>v+1 & ! few papyri :i* h surviv$ ! ravages ( "t4 ,= ! ,greek & ,roman p]iod1 ^u sculpture1 pott]y1 & ! writt5 description ( ! m consid]able au?ors4 ,= ! ,byzant9e1 ,franki%1 & ,go?ic p]iods1 ^u mosaic1 monum5tal effigies1 & illum9at$ ,,mss4 ,x is n until :at may be call$ ! age ( ! pa9t] t we may be said to em]ge into ! broad light ( day1 & ! p5cils ( ,holbe91 ,rub5s1 & ,v&yke make ?+s cle>] = u4 ,! sumptu>y laws1 h[ev]1 enact$ at v>i\s p]iods1 aga9/ excess 9 app>el & extravagance 9 dress1 let 9 a flood ( light on ! mann]s & cu/oms ( ! times1 & 9 !m w be f\nd _m curi\s & int]e/+ details4 ,! pr9cipal ,acts are ! foll[+3 #b ,edw4 ,,ii4 c4 #d2 #cg ,edw4 ,,iii4 cc4 #h1 #ad2 #c ,edw4 ,,iv4 c4 #a2 #bb ,edw4 ,,iv4 c4 #a2 #a ,h54 ,,viii4 c4 #ad2 #f ,h54 ,,viii4 c4 #a2 #g ,h54 ,,viii4 c4 #f2 #bd ,h54 ,,viii4 c4 #ac2 #a & #b ,phil4 & ,m>y1 c4 #b2 #h ,eliz4 c4 #aa4 ,all ^! laws 7 repeal$ by an ,act ( #a ,jac4 ,i4 ,?is gr&mo!rly legislation1 :i* 0 nev] effective1 always evad$ & ev5 defi$1 _h a d\ble object 9 view1 fir/ to induce habits ( ?rift among/ all classes ( ! p1 & secondly on /hetic gr\nds4 ,9 ! ?irty-sev5? ye> ( ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iii4 7,a4,d4 #acfc71 ! ,commons exhibit$ a compla9t 9 ,p>liam5t aga9/ ! g5]al usage ( exp5sive app>el n suit$ ei!r to ! degree or income ( ! p2 & an ,act 0 pass$ by :i* ! foll[+ regulations 7 insi/$ ^u3 ,furs ( erm9e & lettice1 & embelli%m5ts ( pe>ls1 except+ = a head-dress1 7 /rictly =bidd5 to any b ! ,royal ,family1 & nobles possess+ upw>ds ( #a1jjj p] annum4 ,clo?s ( gold & silv]1 & habits embroid]$ ) jewell]y1 l9$ ) pure m9iv]1 & o!r exp5sive furs1 7 p]mitt$ only to knights & ladies1 ^: incomes exce$$ #djj m>ks ye>ly4 ,knights ^: income exce$$ #bjj m>ks1 or squires possess+ #bjj 9 l&s or t5em5ts1 7 p]mitt$ to we> clo? ( silv] ) rib&s1 girdles1 c41 reasonably embelli%$ ) silv]1 & wooll5 clo?1 ( ! value ( six m>ks ! :ole piece2 b all p]sons "u ! rank ( knigh?ood1 or ( less prop]ty ?an ! la/ m5tion$1 7 conf9$ to ! use ( clo? n exce$+ f\r m>ks ! piece1 & 7 prohibit$ we>+ silks & embroid]$ g>m5ts ( any sort1 or embelli%+ _! app>el ) any ornam5ts ( gold1 silv]1 or jewell]y4 ,r+s1 buckles1 ou*es1 girdles1 & rib&s 7 =bidd5 !m1 & ! p5alty annex$ to ! infr+em5t ( ?is /atute 0 ! =feiture ( ! dress or ornam5t s made or worn4 ,9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,iv4 ^! laws 7 s little reg>d$ t x 0 f\nd necess>y to revive !m ) consid]able additions4 ,x 0 enact$ t--,no man n be+ a bann]et1 or p]son ( high e/ate1 0 p]mitt$ to we> clo? ( gold1 ( crimson1 or clo? ( velvet1 or motley velvet1 or l>ge hang+ sleeves op5 or clos$1 or g[ns s long z to t\* ! gr\nd1 or to use ! furs ( erm9e1 lettice1 or m>t51 except+ only g5s d'armes quant ils sont armez4 ,decorations ( gold & silv] 7 =bidd5 to all :o possess$ less ?an #bjj 9 goods & *attels1 or #bj p] annum1 unless !y 7 heirs to e/ates ( #ej m>ks p] annum1 or to #ejj wor? ( goods & *attels4 ,f\r ye>s aft]w>ds x 0 orda9$ t no man1 let 8 condition be :at x might1 %\ld be p]mitt$ to we> a g[n or g>m5t cut or sla%$ into pieces 9 ! =m ( lett]s1 rose leaves1 & posies ( v>i\s k9ds1 or any su*-l devices1 "u ! p5alty ( =feit+ ! same1 & ! (f5d+ tailor 0 to be imprison$ dur+ ! ,k+'s pleasure4 ,9 ! ?ird ye> ( ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv4 an ,act 0 promulgat$ by :i* clo? ( gold1 clo? ( silk ( a purple col\r1 & fur ( sables 7 prohibit$ to all knights "u ! e/ate ( lords4 ,ba*elor knights 7 =bidd5 to we> clo? ( velvet ^u velvet1 unless !y 7 ,knights ( ! ,g>t]2 & simple esquires1 or g5tlem51 7 re/rict$ f ! use ( velvet1 damask1 or figur$ sat91 or any c\nt]feit resembl+ su* /uffs1 except !y possess$ a ye>ly income to ! value ( #ajj1 or 7 atta*$ to ! ,k+'s ,c\rt or h\sehold4 ,x 0 also =bidd5 to any p]sons :o 7 n 9 ! enjoym5t ( #dj ye>ly income to we> any ( ! ri*] furs2 also girdles ( gold1 silv]1 or silv]-gilt 7 =bidd54 ,illu/ration3 ,,travell+ ,,9 ,a ,,horse ,,litt]4 ,f ! ,,ms4 #aah ,franais 9 ! ,biblio?que ,nationale 7late ,f\rte5? ,c5tury74 ,no "o "u ! e/ate ( a "l 0 p]mitt$ to we> indec5tly %ort jackets1 g[ns1 c41 m5tion$ by ,mon/relet1 or pikes or pole9es to 8 %oes & boots exce$+ two in*es 9 l5g?4 ,no yeoman1 or p]son "u ! degree ( a yeoman1 0 all[$ bol/]s or /uff+ ( wool1 cotton1 or cadis 9 8 purpo9t or d\blet "u a p5alty ( six %ill+s & eightp5ce f9e1 & =feiture aw>d$2 ! un=tunate tailor mak+ su* %ort or /uff$ dresses1 or %oemak] manufactur+ su* long-to$ %oes = unprivileg$ p]sons1 be+ "u ! pa9 ( curs+ by ! cl]gy = ! latt] (f5ce1 z well z ! =feit ( tw5ty %ill+s--"o noble to ! ,k+1 ano!r to ! cordwa9]s ( ,london1 & ! ?ird to ! ,*amb] ( ,london4 ,x w readily be se5 t ^! laws 7 necess>ily ! cause ( great h9drance to trade1 :i* 01 inde$1 n ! lea/ ( ! evils occasion$ by ^! absurd laws4 ,ri*>d ,onsl[1 ,record] ( ,london1 #aefe 7giv5 9 ,ellis's ,orig9al ,lett]s1 vol4 ii471 describes an int]view :i* he _h ) ! civic tailors1 :o 7 puzzl$ to "k :e!r !y might l9e a slop-hose n cut 9 panes1 ) a l9+ ( cotton /it*$ to ! slop1 ov] & besydes ! l95 l9+ /raight to ! leg4 ,! /atutory laws1 h[ev]1 7 n ! only h9drance to trade1 s9ce x w\ld appe> t dur+ ! ,plantag5et p]iod di%one/y 9 trade 0 z rife z x is at ! pres5t "t1 & =eign competition z ke52 ! conditions1 h[ev]1 7 slightly diff]5t1 ! =eign m]*ants obta9+ high prices = _! goods1 in/ead ( dump+ *eap goods into ! c\ntry at l[ prices4 ,! rem$y 0 direct$ to ! en=cem5t ( great] hone/y 9 trade deal+s1 r ?an to =tify !mselves beh9d t>iff walls4 ,x 0 enact$ 9 ! ?ird ye> ( ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv4 c4 #a3--;,fir/e1 :]eas _m y]es pa/e n[e at ?is daye1 ! workeman%yp ( clo!s ?+s requisite to ! same1 is ha? b5e ( su* fraude disceite falsite1 t ! sayde clo!s 9 o!r l&es c\ntreis1 is _h 9 small reputacyon1 to ! greate %ame ( ?is l&e4 ,& by reason !re( a great quantite ( clo!s ( o!r /range l&es be br\ght into ?is realme1 "h solde at an highe excessyve pryce1 evyd5tly %ewynge ?oss5s defaulte falsyte ( ! maykynge ( woll5 clo!s ( ?is l&e4 ,our sov]aigne lorde ! ,kynge1 = ! rem$y ( ! premisses1 to ! pref]m5t ( su* lab\rs occupacions1 :i* ha? be5 us$ by ! makynge ( ! sayde clo!s1 by ?aduyse ass5t reque/ auctoritie a=sayd1 ha? ordeyn$ e/ablys%$1 t e hole woll5 clo! call$ brodclo!1 :i* %al be made set to sale aft] ! fea/e ( ,saynt ,pet] call$ ad v9cula1 :i* %al be 9 ! y]e ( our ,lorde ,m4,,cccc4,,lxv4 aft] ! ful wat]ynge rackyng /raynyng or t5turyng ( ! same r$y to sale1 %all holde conteyne 9 l5g? xxiiii y>des1 to e y>de an yn*e1 conteynynge ! br$! ( a mannes yn*e1 to be measur$ by ! cre/e ( ! same clo!4 ,& i br$e ii y>des1 or vii qu>t]s at ! lea/e wy?yn ! ly/es4 if ! clo! be long] 9 measure ?an xxiiii y>des ! yn*es ?an ! by] !r( %all paye to ! sell] = = z mo*e z do? exc$e su* measure ( xxiiii y>des1 aft] ! rate ( ! measure above ordeyn$4 ,also x is orde9$ e/ablis%$ by auctoritie ( ! sayd lordes1 t all man] clo!s call$ /reytes1 to be made put to sale aft] ! same fea/e1 aft] ! full wat]+ rackyng1 /reynynge or t5turynge !r( r$ye to sale1 %all holde conteyne 9 l5g! xii y>des ! yn*es1 aft] ! measure a=said1 9 br$e "o y>de )9 ! ly/es4 ,also x is ordeyn$ e/ablys%$ by ?auctoritie a=said1 t e clo! call$ k]sey1 to be made put to sale aft] ! sayde fea/e1 aft] ! full wat]ynge rackynge /raynynge or t5turynge ( ! same r$y to sale1 %all holde conteyne 9 l5g! xviii y>des ! yn*es1 z is a=sayd1 9 br$e "o y>de a nayle1 or at ! lea/e "o y>de )9 ! ly/es4 also x is ordeyn$ e/ablys%$1 t e halfe clo! ( e ( ! sayde hole clo!s1 /reytes1 k]seys1 %all kepe 8 measure 9 l5g? br$e aft] ! rate f\rme nature ( 8 hole clo! a=sayde4 t no p]sone1 :i*e %all make or cause to be made any man] woll5 clo! to sel aft] ! said fea/e %all m$le or put 9 or ^u ! same clo?1 nor ! wolle1 :]e( ! sayd clo! %all be made1 any lambes wolle1 flockes or corke 9 any man]1 ^u payne to =fayt xxs4 = e clo! or halfe clo!1 :]e9 :]upon any su* lambes wolle1 flockes or corke %all be put or m$l$4 ,! "o halfe !re( to be to ! ,kyng1 ! o!r halfe to hym t %all leyse ! same clo!1 duely prove ! same to be made contr>ie to ?is ord9ance1 excepte t he %all *ose to make ( lambes wolle by itselfe )\t mynglyng ) any o!r wolle4 ,excepte also t corke may be us$ 9 dy5ge ^u wod$ wolle1 also 9 dy5ge ( all su*e clo!1 t is onely made ( wod$ wolle1 s t ! same wolle clo! be p]fytly boyl$ mad]$1 except also t corke may be put ^u clo!1 :i*e is p]fectly boyl$ mad]$--b en\gh ( ?is4 ,! sumptu>y laws cont9u$ to be enact$ aga9/ ?is1 t1 or ! o!r abuse1 or fanci$ abuse4 ,if a new fa%ion sprung up1 a br& new law w\ld be imm$iately fa%ion$ = ! purpose ( keep+ x )9 b\nds4 ,x 0 to no purpose1 h[ev]2 ! sumptu>y laws cont9u$ to be disreg>d$ z h]et(ore4 ,h[ (t5 ha? h] maje/ie ) ! grave advice ( h] honorable ,c\ncell1 sette d[ne ! limits ( app>ell to e degree1 h[ soon aga9 ha? ! pride ( our h>ts ov]fl[5 ! *anell6#d ,illu/ration3 ,,guiljelmus ,,iii4 ,d4 ,g4 ,,angli1 ,,scoti1 ,,franci et ,,hib]ni ,,rex4 ,,william ,,iii4 ,x 0 ! same ) ! satiri/s1 :e!r ( horn$ head-dresses or o!r extravagances2 ,monk ,lydgate might rave1 might %\t himself ho>se1 b ! wom5 w\ld h _! horns4 ,x 0 inde$ inevitable t ! vag>ies ( fa%ion & ! love ( f9e fea!rs %\ld become ! fav\rite butt ( ! satiri/s1 puri/s1 & o!r p]sons :o assum$ ! "* ( m5tor4 ,among ! mo/ insi/5t ( ^! 7 ! prie/hood4 ,/4 ,b]n>d ?us admoni%es 8 si/]1 p]haps ) great] c&\r ?an polit5ess1 on h] visit+ him1 well arrai$ ) ri*e clo?+1 ) p]les & preci\s /ones3-- ,su/]1 yet ye love y\re bodi1 by reson ye %uld bet] love y\re s\le3 w5e ye n t ye displese ,god & 8 aungels to see 9 y su*e pompe & pride to adorn su*e a c>ion z is y\re body4444 ,:i !nke ye n t ! pore peple t dey5 = hungir & colde1 t = ! sixte "p ( y\re gay arraye xl p]sones might be clo!d1 refres%$1 & kepte f ! colde8444 ,& ?anne ! ladi wepte1 & solde awey h] clo!s1 & levid aft] an holy lyff1 & _h love ( ,god1 aungeles1 & holy se9tes1 ! :i*e is bet] ?anne ( ! worldely pepille 7,knight ( ,la ,t\r ,l&ry1 #acga74 ,! si/] ( ,/4 ,b]n>d1 h[ev]1 evid5tly lack$ ! p[] ( rep>tee ( ,/4 ,edi?1 daught] ( ,k+ ,edg>1 :o1 ?\gh br\ght up 9 a conv5t at ,wilton1 & de/9$ to ! life ( ! cloi/]1 nev]!less _h a weakness = clo!s :i* seem$ too f9e & gay = a nun4 ,/4 ,e!lwold1 :o1 x is cle>1 mu/ h %>$ ! op9ions ( ,/4 ,b]n>d ^u ! subject ( f9]y1 & v5tur$ to upbraid h]1 receiv$ ?is cru%+ reply3 ,god's doom1 t may n fail1 is pleas$ only ) consci5ce4 ,!re=e ,i tr[ t z clean a s\l may be "u ^? clo!s t are array$ ) gold z "u ?y slight fur-sk9s4 ,he 0 rem9d$ also t ,/4 ,augu/9e _h said t pride c\ld lurk ev5 9 rags4 ,?is latt] sally calls to m9d ! /ory ( ,diog5es spitt+ ^u ! floor ( ,plato's h\se & exclaim+1 ,?us ,i trample on ! pride ( ,plato4 ,) great] pride1 ,o ,diog5es1 0 ! quiet rejo9d]4 ,d[glas1 ! monk ( ,gla/onbury1 writ+ aga9/ ! extravagances :i* 7 rife dur+ ! latt] half ( ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iii41 says3 ,! ,engli% haunt$ s mu* unto ! foly ( /rang]s1 t e ye> !y *ang$ !m 9 div]se %apes & disguis+s ( clo?+1 n[ long1 n[ l>ge1 n[ wide1 n[ /rait1 & e day clo?+ges1 new & de/itute1 & deve/ f all hone/y ( old arraye or good usage2 & ano!r "t 9 %ort clo!s1 & s /rait wai/$1 ) full sleeves & tapetes ( surcoats & hodes1 ov] long & l>ge1 all s ragg$ & knib on e side1 & all s %att]$1 & also button$1 t ,i ) tru? %all say1 !y seem m l to torm5tors or devils 9 _! clo?+1 & also 9 _! %oy+ & o!r arraye ?an !y seem$ to be l m54 ,! au?ors ( ! ,roman de la ,rose1 ,william de ,lorris1 :o di$ 9 #abfj1 & ,john de ,meun1 :o cont9u$ & f9i%$ ! poem ab\t #acjd1 are among/ ! mo/ sev]e ( ^! satiri/s4 ,9 allud+ to ! unnecess>y l5g? ( _! tra9s1 ! au?or advises ! ladies1 if _! legs be n h&some1 nor _! feet small & delicate1 to we> long robes trail+ on ! pavem5t to hide !m2 ^? hav+ pretty feet are c\nsell$ to elevate _! robes1 z if = air & conv5i5ce1 t all :o are pass+ may see & admire4 ,?is has be5 imitat$ by ,b5 ,jonson1 :o 9 8 ,sil5t ,woman makes ,truewit say3-- ,i love a good dress+ be=e any beauty o' ! _w4 ,oh1 a woman is !n l a delicate g>d52 nor is !re "o k9d ( x2 %e may v>y e h\r2 take (t5 c\nsel ( h] glass1 & *oose ! be/4 ,if %e h good e>s1 %[ !m2 good hair1 lay x out2 good legs1 we> %ort clo!s2 a good h&1 discov] x (t52 practise any art to m5d brea?1 cleanse tee?1 repair eyebr[s1 pa9t1 & pr(ess x4 ,illu/ration3 ,,m>ia ,d4 ,g4 ,,angli1 ,,scoti1 ,,franci ,,et ,,hib]ni ,,reg9a4 ,,que5 ,,m>y4 ,! au?or ( ! ,roxburghe ,ballads 7,a ,woman's ,bir? & ,education7 in=ms u t :5 ,cupid fir/ beheld a woman-- ,he prankt x up 9 ,f>d+als & ,muffs1 ,9 ,masks1 ,rebatos1 ,%app][ns1 & ,wy]s1 ,9 ,pa9t+s1 ,p[d'r+s1 ,p]riwigs1 & ,cuffes1 ,9 ,dut*1 ,italian1 ,spani%1 ,fr5* attires2 ,?us 0 x born1 br\ght =?1 & made ,love's baby1 ,& ?is is t :i* n[ we call a ,lady4 ,nor 0 x ! fair sex only :o 7 ?us lampoon$4 ,! m5 also came 9 = _! %>e1 & 7 z mu* ! objects ( ! satiri/'s wra? z 7 ! wom53-- ,y\r ruffs & y\r b&s1 ,& y\r cuffs at y\r h&s1 ,y\r pipes & y\r smokes1 ,& y\r %ort curtall clokes1 ,sc>fes1 fea!rs & sw]des1 ,& _! bodk9 be>ds2 ,y\r wa/es a span long1 ,y\r knees ) po9ts hung ,l morrice-dance bels ,& _m toyes els4 ,,skelton1 ,el9or ,rumm91 #afbe4 ,! ,knight ( ,la ,t\r ,l&ry1 writ+ t[>ds ! close ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 9 ord] to det] 8 daught]s f extravagance & sup]fluity ( dress1 rec\nts a /ory ( a knight :o1 hav+ lo/ 8 wife1 appli$ to an h]emyte hys uncle to "k :e!r %e 0 sav$ or n & h[ x /ode ) h]4 ,! h]mit1 aft] _m pray]s1 dream$ t he saw ,se9t ,mi*elle ! develle t _h h] 9 a balaunce1 alle h] good d$es 9 ! same balaunce1 a develle alle h] evelle d$es 9 t o!r balaunce4 ! mo/ t grevid h] 0 h] good gay clo?+1 furres ( gray m5iv]e letuse2 ! develle cri$ sayde1 ,se9t ,mi*el1 ?is woman _h t5ne div]se g[nes z mani cotes2 ?\ wo/ welle lesse myghte h suffis$ h] aft] ! lawe ( ,god2 444 he toke all h] juellys & rynges1 444 also ! false langage t %e _h saide 444 ca/e hem 9 ! balaunce ) h] evelle d$es4 ,! evelle d$es pass$ ! good1 wey$ d[ne ov]came h] good d$es4 !re ! develle toke h]1 b>e h] away1 putte h] clo!s aray br5nyng 9 ! flawme on h] ) ! fire ( helle1 ki/ h] d\ne into ! pitte ( helle2 444 ! pore s\l cri$1 made mo*e sorughe pite 444 b x bot$ n4 ,lydgate1 ! fam\s monk ( ,bury1 & "o ( ! =emo/ poets ( 8 "t1 0 unwe>y+ 9 8 condemnation ( ! extravagances ( dress1 8 pet av]sion be+ ! horn$ head-dresses :i* obta9$ dur+ ! ,york & ,lanca/rian p]iod4 ,9 a ,ditty ( ,wom5's ,horns1 he unbosoms himself z foll[s3-- ,cl]kys recorde1 by gret auctoryt1 ,hornes w] yove to be/ys = dyff5ce2 ,a ?+ contr>ye to femynt1 ,to be maad /urdy ( resy/5ce4 ,b ar*e wives1 egre 9 !r vyol5ce1 ,f]s z tygres = to make affray ,!y h despit1 & ageyn concy5ce ,ly/ nat ( pryde1 !n hornes ca/ away4 ,b ! mo/ insi/5t ( all ! satiri/s 0 ,philip ,/ubbes1 :o wrote 8 ,anatomy ( ,abuses 9 ! reign ( ,elizabe?4 ,9 lampoon+ ! fem99e habit ( ap+ mascul9e dress1 he says3 ,! wom5 h d\blets & j]k9s z ! m5 h1 button$ up to ! brea/1 & made ) w+s1 welts1 & p9ions on ! %\ld]-po9ts1 z man's app>el 9 all respects2 & al?\gh ?is be a k9d ( attire prop] only to a man1 yet !y blu% n to we> x4 ,arti/s also1 z well z writ]s1 jo9$ 9 ! g5]al *orus ( condemnation ( ! extravagances ( fa%ion4 ,/rutt gives a cut f ! ,,ms4 copy ( ,froiss>t 9 ! ,h>leian ,libr>y1 ( a pig walk+ ^u /ilts play+ ! h>p1 & cr[n$ ) ! high /eeple head-dress :i* prevail$ dur+ ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv4 ,9 ! ,cotton ,,ms4 7,n]o1 ,c#d7 !re is an illu/ration ( a w+$ devil array$ 9 a co/ume ) elongat$ sleeves ti$ 9 knots1 ! prevail+ fa%ion ( ! p]iod4 ,x mu/ be confess$ t ! satiri/s 7 occasionally a little too sev]e 9 _! /rictures1 = :ile d\btless extravagance prevail$ at mo/ p]iods--inde$1 mu/ always prevail--! dress ( su* a p]iod z t ( ! ,plantag5ets1 z well z t ( ,elizabe?1 0 sumptu\s to a degree4 ,9 fact1 x is difficult = u mod]ns1 s surr\nd$ z we are by commonness1 *eapness1 & vulg>ity1 to realise ! extreme spl5d\r ( ! ,middle ,ages1 ei!r z reg>ds _! dress or _! surr\nd+s4 ,pl5ty ( extravagance !re is at ! pres5t "t1 b no real magnific5ce1 ei!r z to inv5tion or mat]ial4 ,illu/ration ,) respect to mat]ial1 by f> ! mo/ sumptu\s fabric employ$ = purposes ( adornm5t 9 pa/ times is und\bt$ly clo? ( gold4 ,?is truly regal fabric has be5 9 use f ! e>lie/ p]iods4 ,& !y %all make ! ephod ( gold1 ( blue1 & ( purple1 ( sc>let1 & f9e tw9$ l951 ) cunn+ "w4 ,& ! curi\s girdle ( ! ephod1 :i* is ^u x1 %all be ( ! same1 accord+ to ! "w !re(2 ev5 ( gold1 ( blue1 & purple1 & sc>let1 & f9e tw9$ l954#e ,x is record$ ( ! wife ( ! ,emp]or ,honorius1 :o di$ ab\t ! ye> #djj1 ^u ! re-op5+ ( h] grave 9 #aedd1 ! gold5 tissues :i* =m$ ! %r\d 7 melt$1 & am\nt$ 9 weight to #cf lbs4 ,ab\t ! body ( ! ,franki% ,k+ ,*ild]ic1 :5 8 grave 0 discov]$ 9 #afec1 7 f\nd num]\s /rips ( pure gold1 po9t+ to ! fact t ! body mu/ h be5 wrapp$ 9 a mantle ( gold5 /uff = burial4 ,! sumptu>y laws :i* 7 enact$ at v>i\s p]iods ( ,engli% hi/ory1 regulat+ & re/rict+ ! we>+ ( ?is preci\s fabric to p]sons ( e/ate1 h already be5 ref]r$ to1 & s]ve to %[ 9 :at high e/imation ?is fabric 0 held4 ,x w readily be imag9$ t clo? ( gold 0 necess>ily co/ly4 ,! ,pr9cess ,m>y 7aft]w>ds ,que571 ?irte5 ye>s be=e %e came to ! ?rone1 ,pay$ to ,peycocke1 ( ,london1 = xix y]ds iii qrt ( clo! ( golde at xxxviijs4 ! y]de4 xxxvijli4 xs4 vjd4 & = a y]de dr qrt ( clo! ( silv] xls4 ,9 lat] times ! use ( ! pure gold ?read 0 discont9u$ except = v co/ly g>m5ts1 & tissues 7 made ( silv]-gilt or copp]-gilt ?read4 ,! ?9 pap] :i* we n[ "k by ! "n ( tissue pap] 0 orig9ally made = ! purpose ( be+ plac$ betwe5 ! pieces ( /uff to prev5t t>ni%+ :5 laid by4 ,silk1 l ! sun1 & s _m o!r good ?+s comes to u f ! sacr$ ,ea/4 ,! e>lie/ m5tion ( x is 9 ,ari/otle1 :o ref]s to ! importation into ! ,we/]n _w ( raw silk4 ,silk5 g>m5ts 7 br\ght to ,rome f a v e>ly p]iod1 b on acc\nt ( _! co/l9ess 7 worn only by a v few4 ,heliogabalus 0 ! fir/ ,emp]or :o wore silk = clo?+4 ,by ! revis$ code ( laws issu$ = ! ,roman ,empire 9 #ecc ,a4,d41 a monopoly ( silk weav+ 0 giv5 to ! ,c\rt1 looms be+ set up 9 ! imp]ial palace & work$ by wom54 ,! raw mat]ial1 h[ev]1 _h /ill to be br\ght f abroad4 ,! /ory ( ! introduction ( ! silkworm into ,con/ant9ople w s]ve to %[ h[ jeal\sly ! secret ( ! re>+ ( ! worm 0 kept by ! peoples ( ! ,ea/4 ,! eggs ( ! silkworm 7 br\ght1 hidd5 9 _! walk+ /aves1 by two ,greek monks1 :o _h liv$ _m ye>s among/ ! ,*9ese & le>nt ! process ( re>+ ! worm1 & :o c>ri$ !m to ,con/ant9ople & pres5t$ !m to ! ,emp]or4 ,v soon aft]w>ds ! ,we/]n _w re>$ its own silk4 ,silk 0 kn[n "u diff]5t names at v>i\s p]iods1 accord+ to its col\r1 texture1 or design4 ,samite1 ,samit1 ,examitum1 is a six-?read$ tissue1 & consequ5tly co/ly4 ,! h& :i* grasp$ ! sword ,excalibur :5 x 0 ?r[n into ! lake 0 clo!d 9 :ite samite-- ,launcelot & ! ,que5 7 cl$de ,9 robes ( a ri* w$e1 ,( samyte :ite1 ) silv] %r$de4 ,ciclat\n 0 a sub/ance ( light texture1 & 0 us$ bo? = ecclesia/ical purposes & = ! m /ately dresses ( a secul> "*4 ,*auc]1 9 8 ,rime ( ,sire ,?opas1 says3-- ,( ,brugges 7 8 hos5 br\n ,8 robe 0 ( ciclat\n4 ,c5dal 0 a less co/ly fabric1 & 0 also us$ l>gely 9 ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts4 ,taffeta 0 a ?9 transp>5t textile1 & 0 us$1 z well z c5dal1 dur+ ! ,middle ,ages = l9+s4 ,s>c5et also is a light webb$ silk1 & by degrees supplant$ c5dal4 ,sat9 0 also us$ 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 & is m5tion$ by ,*auc] 9 8 ,man ( ,lawe's ,tale1 b 0 n br\ght into g5]al use until lat]4 ,! beauties ( ! ,c\rt ( ,*>les ,,ii41 z pictur$ by ,sir ,pet] ,lely1 are usually clad 9 sat94 ,velvet1 t mo/ sumptu\s mat]ial1 has always be5 held 9 high e/imation on acc\nt ( ! ri*ness ( its texture & fold4 ,x has always be5 us$1 s9ce its introduction into ! ,we/1 = robes ( /ate & = ! m sumptu\s k9d ( dress4 ,! place ( its orig9 is n kn[n1 b x probably comes f ,*9a4 ,illu/ration3 ,,du*ess ,,( ,,anca/] 7,,aft] ,,hudson74 ,9 a lett] pres]v$ 9 ! ,record ,(fice 7circa #aeje7 to ,edmund de la ,pole1 ,e>l ( ,suffolk1 f 8 /ew>d ,kill+wor? 7,de la ,pole _h be5 indict$ ( homicide & murd]1 = slay+ ( a mean p]son 9 8 rage & fury1 & _h fl$ to ,fl&]s71 convey+ excuses f "s p]son un-nam$1 m5tion$ only z y\r fri5d1 = n hav+ communicat$ ) ,de la ,pole e>li]1 z he _h hop$1 to s5d him news f ,engl&1 ! writ] cont9ues3-- ,= y\r g[n he axk$ me h[e _m elles velvet wold s]ve y4 ,i told hym xiiij ,engli%e y]dis1 & !n he sai$1 ',:at lynyng !reunto8' ,i answ]de ',s>c5et' by cause ( ! le/ co/e to helpe x =w>d4 ,& he saide to me1 ',wel1 ,i %al see :at ,i c doo !r94' ,soo1 sir1 if x please y to write to him 9 ,du*e1 & ?ank him1 & geve b oon worde !r9 t[*+ y\r g[n1 ,i d\bte n ye %al h hyt4 ,! patt]n+s ( wov5 brocades1 damasks & o!r textiles af=d an int]e/ q ap>t f m]e utility1 or ! purpose = :i* !y 7 int5d$ to s]ve z an ornam5tal adjunct to dress1 s9ce by _! means we are able to trace ! great ornam5tal traditions to _! orig9al s\rce 9 ! ,ea/4 ,! hi/ory ( ! art ( weav+ 9 ,*9a is lo/ 9 obscurity1 b we may reasonably inf] f our k ( ! "* ( its p t nei!r _! me?ods nor ! "* ( ! ornam5tation h mat]ially *ang$ dur+ a p]iod ( z mu* z two ?\s& ye>s4 ,dionysius ,p]iegetes in=ms u t ! ,s]es make preci\s figur$ g>m5ts resembl+ 9 col\r ! fl[]s ( ! field1 & rivall+ 9 f95ess ! "w ( spid]s4 ,x is c]ta9 t ! ,egyptians practis$ ! art ( weav+ f v e>ly times1 al?\gh ! e>lie/ ornam5tal fabrics f\nd 9 ,egypt are ( ! six? c5tury ,a4,d4 ,9 lat] times1 h[ev]1 _! wov5 fabrics 7 exce$+ly sumptu\s4 ,%akespe>e's description ( ! b>ge ( ,cleopatra w be famili> to all-- ,! b>ge %e sat 91 l a burni%$ ?rone ,burn$ on ! wat]3 ,purple ! sails1 & s p]fum$ t ,! w9ds 7 love-sick ) !m2 %e did lie ,9 h] pavilion--clo? ( gold1 ( tissue1 c4 ,! ,sicilian brocades ( ! twelf? & ?irte5? c5turies 7 ! f9e/ 9 ! _w4 ,! "* ( _! ornam5tation betrays _! ,ea/]n orig91 & we may trace 9 !m ! v>i\s influ5ces :i* 7 br\ght to be> ^u !m by _! successive conqu]ors1 & :i* left a la/+ m>k ^u _! art4 ,! e>lie/ ornam5tal influ5ce 0 t ( ,byzantium1 :i* foll[$ ^u ! conque/ ( ! isl& by ,belis>ius 9 #ece4 ,! patt]n+s are made up ( grotesque animals1 birds1 griff9s1 *im]as1 c41 int]tw9$ ) conv5tional foliage or ornam5t ( a purely ab/ract "*4 ,aft] ! ,s>ac5 conque/1 resultant ^u ! prea*+ ( ,muhammad1 we f9d ,arabic inscriptions freely introduc$ z "p ( ! g5]al decorative motive4 ,gold ?read is lavi%ly us$1 &1 toge!r ) an admixture ( col\r1 usually =ms ! patt]n1 ^u a col\r$ gr\nd1 d>k or light1 z ! case may be4 ,illu/ration3 ,,damask ,,9 ,,silk ,,& ,,gold 7,,s>ac5ic1 ,,elev5? ,,to ,,?irte5? ,,c5tury74 ,! tradition spread to ! ma9l& ( ,italy1 & looms 7 set up 9 ,lucca1 ,flor5ce1 ,v5ice1 ,g5oa1 & else:]e2 ! "* ( ! ornam5tation gradually *ang+1 h[ev]1 z ! ,r5asc5ce influ5ce began to make itself felt4 ,ev5 ! mo/ cursory /udy ( ,italian pa9t+ w s]ve to give an idea ( ! spl5d\r ( ! dresses ( ! ,italian ,go?ic & ,r5asc5ce p]iods4 ,illu/ration3 ,,v5etian ,,fabric ,,9 ,,silk ,,& ,,gold 7,,?irte5? ,,c5tury74 ,x 0 ,l\is ,,xi4 :o introduc$ ! art ( silk weav+ into ,france1 & looms 7 e/abli%$ at ,t\rs 9 #adhj4 ,9 #aebj looms 7 set up 9 ,lyons by ,francis ,i4 ,9 ,engl& also ! art ( weav+ fl\ri%$1 & 0 employ$ = ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts1 hang+s1 furniture1 & o!r purposes1 z well z = civil dress4 ,9 ! w>drobe acc\nts ( ,edw>d ,,ii4 occurs ! item3 ,to a m]c] 9 ,london = a gre5 hang+ ( wool ) figures ( ,k+s & ,e>ls ^u x1 = ! ,k+'s s]vice 9 ?is hall on solemn fea/s at ,london1 c4 ,= ! mantell ( ! ,g>t] ( ,h5ry ,,vii4 a p\nd & a half ( gold ( ,v5ys 0 employ$ ab\te ! mak+ ( a lace & boton4 ,in/ances ( ! spl5d\r ( ! co/ume at ! diff]5t p]iods ( ! pa/ might be multipli$ indef9itely4 ,! monk ( ,malmesbury describes ! bann] "u :i* ,h>old f\ght at ,ha/+s z hav+ be5 embroid]$ 9 gold ) ! figure ( a man 9 ! act ( fight+1 /udd$ ) preci\s /ones1 wov5 sumptu\sly4 ,*auc] describes ! ,k+'s daught] 9 ! ,squire ( ,l[ ,degree z hav+-- ,mantell ( ry*e degre ,purple palle & armyne fre4 ,9 ! ,romaunt ( ! ,rose ! dress ( ,mir? is describ$ z foll[s3-- ,full yong he 01 & m]ry ( ?\ght1 ,& 9 samette1 ) birdes wr\ght1 ,& ) gold bet5 full fet\sly ,8 bodie 0 clad full ri*ely4 4 4 4 4 4 ,a coronell on hur h$d sett1 ,hur clo?ys wy? be/es & byrdes w] bete1 ,all ab[te = pryde4 ,& n[ contra/ all ?is ) ! extreme pov]ty ( ! dress ( ! pres5t day1 & turn our ?\ghts = a mom5t to ^? t]rible cyl9drical enormities ! pot-hat & tr\s]s4 ,dress8 we don't dress--we simply cov] our nak$ness--z 9 ar*itecture we are cont5t if we keep out w9d & wet4 ,we h =gott5 h[ to dress z we h =gott5 h[ to build1 & beauty has =sak5 dress z x has =sak5 ! re/ ( ! decorative arts4 ,dress is1 or %\ld be1 "o ( ! decorative arts2 ! adornm5t ( a human1 assum+ t ,nature's m>vel mu/ be cov]$1 is1 to say ! v lea/1 z important z ! adornm5t ( a brick wall4 ,:at is ! explanation ( ! wave ( ,phili/9ism :i* swept n only ,engl& b ! re/ ( ! _w at ! beg9n+ ( ! n9ete5? c5tury8 ,c x be ! rise ( sci5ce1 :i*1 br++ 9 its wake ! me*anical fi5d1 has r$uc$ ev]y?+ to rule & compass1 & ?us br\ght ab\t ! dea? ( ! /hetic s5se8 ,no o!r p]iod ( ! _w's hi/ory b "s c\ntry =g$ ahead & kept alight ! sacr$ lamp ( beauty4 99 99 99 99 99 ,tr\s]s are app>5tly et]nal2 !y date f ! beg9n+1 & w endure1 "o fe>s1 to ! end ( sublun>y "t4 ,( late !re has be5 a t5d5cy1 especially among/ middle-ag$ & eld]ly m51 to affect ! knick]bock]1 al?\gh :e!r ! /hetic pr9ciple is ! ma9spr+ ( ?is t5d5cy1 c\pl$ ) a natural & p>donable desire to exhibit a well-develop$ calf1 or :e!r1 p]adv5ture1 ! too old at tw5ty cry is at ! bottom ( x1 is a "q :i* provides food = reflection4 ,:at1 !n1 9 view ( ?is et]nity ( ! tr\s]1 c be done to br+ x abrea/ ( mod]n ta/e & ?\ght8 because we d move 9 matt]s ( ta/e1 al?\gh almo/ imp]ceptibly4 ,speak+ z a design]1 x seems only possible to develop ! tr\s] 9 "o ( two diff]5t directions--t ( ! peg-top or ! bell-bottom4 ,bell-bottoms may at once be rul$ out ( ! runn+1 s9ce !y h become s id5tifi$ ) ! co/] frat]nity t no man ( fa%ion w\ld dream ( adopt+ !m4 ,^!1 !n1 are ! two extremes or opposite poles4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 z ! late ,mr4 ,glad/one w\ld h said1 a ?ird & middle c\rse--_! column> "* might be reta9$1 & ev5 emphasis$4 ,! %afts might be flut$1 z 9 ! ,cor9?ian ,ord]1 or fe/oon$1 z 9 ! ,pr5tice pill>4 ,illu/ration3 ,,london ,,prom5ade ,,dress1 #ahcf4 ,9 all s]i\sness1 h[ev]1 ! tr\s] is an absurdity ev5 f ! po9t ( view ( m]e com=t4 ,a man _c sit d[n )\t fir/ hit*+ himself up at ! knee4 ,! knee is ! natural place = ! g>m5t to be drawn 91 z a c]ta9 degree ( loos5ess is necess>y at t po9t 9 ord] to all[ ( ! free movem5t ( ! limb4 ,nature h]self rebels aga9/ ! tr\s]1 & does h] level be/ to produce v>iety ( fold1 :i* makes = beauty4 ,phili/9e man1 h[ev]1 decides o!rwise1 & t s+ul> inv5tion ! tr\s]-/ret*]--true emblem ( ! mod]n _s ( incongruity--is call$ into play1 to undo dur+ ! night ,nature's do+s ( ! previ\s day4 ,! late ,"l ,salisbury1 9 8 spee* at ! ,royal ,academy ,banquet on ,april #cj1 #ahhg1 is report$ z say+3 ,!n consid] ! co/ume ( ! p]iod4 ,dresses seem to h be5 select$ by ! exi/+ ,engli% g5]ation ) a special desire to fl\t & gibe at & repudiate all possibility ( compliance ) any s5se ( beauty4 ,i am tax+ my memory1 b ,i _c rememb] any sculptor :o has be5 bold en\gh to give a life /atue ( any ,engli% notability 9 ! ev5+ dress ( ! p]iod4 ,i am q sure t if t man exi/s he mu/ be /rongly tempt$ to commit suicide ! mom5t 8 "w appe>s4 ,! ,tailor & ,cutt]--delightfully fasc9at+ pr9t6--has ?r[n out _m d>k h9ts lately ( imp5d+ />tl+ *anges 9 m5's attire4 ,by ! way1 :o are ! ,rhadaman?9e spirits :o sit my/]i\sly 9 judgm5t ^u ^! high matt]s1 issu+ _! fateful decrees1 regulat+ ! delicate & subtle curves ( ! brim ( a pot-hat or ! turn ( a coat coll>8 ,p]haps ! ,tailor & ,cutt] kn[s1 b1 ^u ! pr9ciple t k is p[]1 decl9es to say2 anyway1 :atev] *anges ! imm$iate future may h 9 /ore = u1 we may take com=t f ! fact t !y mu/ necess>ily be 9 ! direction ( bett]m5t1 s9ce1 hav+ rec5tly em]g$ f t bottomless pit ( all t is /hetically t]rible--! ,victorian era3 ! era ( ! cr9ol9e1 ! antimacass>1 & ( wax fl[]s "u glass--we c\ld n possibly /rike a l[] dep?4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,g54 iii4 #g1 #ba4 #b ,?is fable is s qua9tly told 9 ,lyly's ,euphues 7#aehj71 t x may be wor? :ile to repeat x4 ,a g5tleman walk+ abro>d1 ! ,w9de ?\ght to bl[e (7f7 8 cloake1 :i* ) great bla/es & blu/]+ /riv+ to vnloose x1 made x to /ick fa/] to 8 backe1 = ! m ! w9de encreas$ ! clos] 8 cloake clapt to 8 body1 !n ! ,sunne1 %9+ ) 8 hoat beames began to w>me ?is g5tleman1 :o wax+ som7e7:at fa9t 9 ?is faire wea!r1 did n on7e7ly put (7f7 8 cloake b 8 coate1 :i* ! ,wynde p]ceiu+1 yeeld$ ! conque/ to ! ,sunne4 #c ,c>lyle1 ,s>tor ,res>tus4 #d ,/eph5 ,gosson1 ,! ,s*ool ( ,abuse4 #e ,exodus xxviii4 #f-h4 ,,ii ,,! ,,tunic ,:]e 7 ! v>iegat$ robes1 works ( ,sidonian wom51 :i* god-l ,p>is himself br\ght f ,sidon1 sail+ ov] ! wide sea1 along ! c\rse by :i* he convey$ high-born ,hel58--,iliad1 vi4 #bhi4 ,,ii ,,! ,,tunic ,! e>lie/ made-up g>m5t1 t 9 :i* ! art ( ! tailor 0 call$ into play1 0 d\btless a simple bag1 m or less closely fitt+ to ! body & ( v>y+ l5g?1 ) holes = ! arms & an op5+ = ! neck4 ,su* a primitive g>m5t has be5 worn 9 v>y+ =ms at all p]iods ( ! _w's hi/ory1 & is 9 use at ! pres5t "t 9 ! =m ( ! ord9>y s+let4 ,! mod]n s+let is1 9 fact1 ! simple1 primeval type ( ! tunic4 ,! coat ( _m col\rs :i* ,israel made = 8 son ,joseph 0 unque/ionably an embroid]$ tunic1 al?\gh probably made loose & ample4 ,! little coat :i* ! "m ( ,samuel made = h] *ild :5 he 0 d$icat$ to ! prie/hood1 & br\ght to him f ye> to ye>1 0 d\btless ( ! same "*4 ,sir ,h5ry ,lay>d1 describ+ ! dresses ( ! ,assyrians1 says _m are repres5t$ nak$1 b ! great] numb] are dress$ 9 %ort *equ]$ tunics ) a long fr+e atta*$ to ! girdle4 ,illu/ration3 ,,tunic1 ,,petticoat ,,& ,,girdle1 ,,bronze ,,age4 ,f ,indu/rial ,arts ( ,old ,d5m>k 7,worsaae74 ,"s rem>kable discov]ies h be5 made dur+ ! la/ ?irty ye>s 9 diff]5t portions ( ,sc&9avia1 :i* s]ve to give u a v cle> idea ( ! dress ( bo? m5 & wom5 ( ! remote p]iod ( ! ,bronze ,age4 ,! dresses 7 f\nd 9 c(f9s made ( an oak-tree split 9 two & holl[$ out1 ! bodies hav+ be5 buri$ completely dress$4 ,an illu/ration is giv5 ( a simple wooll5 tunic ) %ort sleeves & a petticoat ) girdle4 ,?is 0 f\nd at ,borum1 9 ! neighb\rhood ( ,a>hus1 ,jutl&4 ,illu/ration3 ,,hunef] ,,& ,,8 ,,wife ,,9 ,,attitude ,,( ,,adoration4 ,f ! ,papyrus ( ,hunef]1 or ,book ( ! ,dead1 c4 ,b4,c4 #acgj4 ,! tunic 0 worn by ! ,egyptians4 ,x is se5 9 _! sculptures1 pa9t+s1 & papyri1 & may be said to h =m$ _! pr9cipal g>m5t1 aft] ! m]e lo9 clo?4 ,! illu/rations giv5 are tak5 f ! papyrus ( ,hunef]1 or ,book ( ! ,dead1 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,! fir/ cut discov]s ,hunef]1 ov]se] ( ! palace ( ! "l ( two l&s1 ,m5-mat-,r 7,seti ,i41 ,k+ ( ,egypt ab\t ,b4,c4 #acgj71 & ov]se] ( ! cattle ( ! "l ( ! two l&s1 ! royal scribe1 & 8 wife ,na%a1 a lady ( ! college ( ! god ,am5-,r at ,!bes1 9 ! attitude ( adoration4 ,hunef] we>s a long tunic ) sleeves1 ornam5t$ at ! ?roat & neck1 ) a broad sa% ar\nd ! wai/4 ,8 wife also we>s a long tunic ) sleeves1 probably ti$ 9 ) a b& und]nea? ! brea/s2 x is n cle> 9 ! draw+4 ,! mat]ial is ( a light tissue1 semi-transp>5t4 ,! second illu/ration %[s a prie/ we>+ no?+ b a lo9 clo? & a leop>d sk94 ,9 ! ,victoria & ,alb]t ,museum is a *ild's tunic1 discov]$ 9 a tomb at ,alkmm 7,panopolis71 ,upp] ,egypt4 ,x is ( unblea*$ l951 dy$ blue1 ) a patt]n produc$ by means ( :at is call$ a res]ve1 ! design be+ fir/ /amp$ on ! fabric by means ( a waxy sub/ance :i* protect$ ^? portions ( ! dress f ! dye into :i* x 0 aft]w>ds dipp$4 ,! res]ve 0 !n remov$ by a second ba?1 leav+ ! patt]n 9 ! orig9al col\r ( ! fabric4 ,illu/ration3 ,f ! ,papyrus ( ,hunef]1 or ,book ( ! ,dead1 c4 ,b4,c4 #acgj4 ,) ! ,greeks ! tunic 0 ! pr9cipal article ( attire4 ,x 0 worn next to ! sk91 & 0 ( a light tissue4 ,9 ! e>li] "t x 0 compos$ ( wool1 9 lat] p]iods ( flax1 & 9 ! late/ p]iods x 0 ei!r ( flax mix$ ) silk or ( pure silk4 ,! illu/ration giv5 w s]ve to %[ its con/ruction4 ,x 0 a simple squ>e bag1 op5 at ! two ends1 made suffici5tly wide to admit ( ! folds be+ ample1 & suffici5tly long to all[ ( its be+ ga!r$ up ab\t ! wai/ & brea/s4 ,x 0 kept 9 its place by v>i\s means1 ei!r by a simple girdle r\nd ! wai/ or by cords drawn crosswise betwe5 ! brea/s1 ov] ! %\ld]s1 loop$ at ! back1 & aga9 drawn r\nd ! wai/1 or by an arrangem5t ( cords or ribbons drawn ov] ea* %\ld] & atta*$ to ! girdle4 ,ov] ! tunic 0 a second g>m5t1 int5d$ to af=d additional protection to ! upp] "p ( ! body4 ,?is 0 a k9d ( bib or sup]-tunic1 & 0 compos$ ( a squ>e or r oblong piece ( /uff1 susp5d$ r\nd ! *e/ & back & secur$ at ! %\ld]s by means ( fibul or buttons4 ,9 "s cases ! bib 0 made deep] "u ! arms1 s z to all[ ! g>m5t to fall 9 regul> zigzag folds1 end+ 9 a po9t1 :i* 0 weight$ ) little pellets ( lead 9 ord] to ensure a bett] fall+ ( ! folds4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,tunic4 ,! tunic1 z well z ! sup]-tunic1 0 (t5 ornam5t$ ) ri* bord]s & diap]$ ) sprigs1 spots1 />s1 c4 ,! tunic ( ! ,roman wom5 rea*$ to ! feet1 ) ! exception ( t worn by ! ,lac$emonian girls1 :i* 0 %ort1 & also divid$ at ! sides s z to %[ _! ?ighs2 & ?is indec5cy1 says ,/rutt1 0 c\nt5anc$ by ! laws ( ,lycurgus4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,tunic4 ,f ,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts4 ,horace1 9 8 tw5ty-fif? ,ode1 address+ an old woman affect+ y\?--flaunt+ wife ( ! indig5t ,ibycus--exclaims-- ,:at becomes !e be/ is a w>m wooll5 dress2 ,get !e fleeces f fam\s ,luc]ia4 ,broadly speak+1 classic dress consi/$ ( b two elem5ts--! tunic & mantle1 bo? be+ worn ( a ?ick] mat]ial dur+ cold wea!r4 ,ulysses exclaims1 9 ! ,odyssey-- ,i h no cloak2 ! fates h *eat$ me1 ,& left alone my tunic4 ,dion ,cassius has giv5 u an acc\nt ( ! dress ( ,boadicea1 ,que5 ( ! ,ic5i4 ,he says %e wore a tunic wov5 *equ]wise 9 purple1 r$ & blue1 & ov] x a %ort] g>m5t op5 on ! bosom4 ,h] yell[ hair float$ 9 ! w9d1 & ^u h] %\ld]s 0 a mantle fa/5$ by a fibula4 ,x 01 9 fact1 a v>iation ( ! ,roman dress ( tunic & mantle or toga4 ,?is 0 ! dress :i* 0 common to all nations1 bo? ,gaul1 ,go?1 ,visigo?1 & ,v&al1 f ! ,roman p]iod to ! "t ( ,*>lemagne1 v>i$1 h[ev]1 accord+ to climatic conditions1 & ornam5t$ 9 ! mann] peculi> to ! p>ticul> c\ntry4 ,mr4 ,plan* 7,cyclopdia ( ,co/ume7 says3 ,t 9 ?is *equ]$ clo? we see ! orig9al breacan feile1 ! g>b ( old ,gaul1 /ill ! national dress ( ! ,scot* ,highl&]s1 !re c be no d\bt2 & t x 0 at ?is "t ! common habit ( e ,keltic tribe1 ?\gh n[ ab&on$ by all _! desc5dants except ! h>dy & unsophi/icat$ ,gaelic m\nta9e]s1 is admitt$1 ,i believe1 by e antiqu>y :o has made public 8 op9ion on ! subject4 ,eg9h>t1 a writ] ( ! n9? c5tury1 has left u a detail$ description ( ! dress ( ,*>lemagne4 ,x consi/$ ( ! foll[+ p>ts3 ,! %irt1 ! draw]s1 ! tunic1 ! /ock+s1 ! leg b&ages1 ! %oes1 ! sword-belt1 & sword4 ,9 ! w9t] he add$ ! mantle & ! ?orax1 :i* 01 z its "n implies1 a cov]+ = ! *e/ & ?roat4 ,x 0 made ( ott]'s sk91 & 0 probably worn und]nea? ! tunic1 z no pictur$ or o!r repres5tation ( ?is g>m5t is available4 ,8 tunic 0 ornam5t$ ) a bord] ( silk4 ,! mat]ial ( ! tunic itself is n m5tion$1 b ,/rutt ?9ks t1 accord+ to ! cu/om ( ! "t1 x 0 made ( l954 ,x 0 ! %ort tunic1 z ! hi/orian positively ass]ts t he wore ! long] tunic b twice 9 8 life4#f ,ano!r ,fr5* writ] quot$ by ,/rutt m5tions /ock+s & tr[s]s1 ! latt] ( l951 b ornam5t$ ) preci\s workman%ip1 i4e41 embroid]y z =m+ "p ( ! dress ( ! ,franks4 ,illu/ration3 ,,greek ,,figure4 ,f ,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts4 ,=tunately1 we are able to =m a v complete idea ( ,franki% dress f ! sculptur$ effigies ( ,clovis & 8 ,que5 ,clo?ilde on ! faade ( ! ,ca!dral ( ,*>tres1 & o!r records :i* h come d[n to u4 ,! p5cil1 or ! sculptor's *isel1 mu/ necess>ily be m eloqu5t & conv9c+ ?an any writt5 description c possibly be4 ,! g5]al appe>ance ( ! ,que5 may1 h[ev]1 be describ$ z foll[s3 ,%e we>s a long loose tunic ( s(t mat]ial1 rea*+ to ! gr\nd1 conf9$ by a fall+ girdle ) an oval clasp 9 front1 9 :i* em]alds1 ame?y/s & rubies vie ) ea* o!r 9 _! brilliance4 ,! sleeves are long & ample1 ! edges s]rat$ 9 ! =m ( leaves4 ,! long fl[+ embroid]$ mantle is fa/5$ by a gold fibula at ! ?roat4 ,h] flax5 hair falls 9 two long d\ble plaits 9 front ( h] p]son1 rea*+ almo/ to ! gr\nd2 ! plaits be+ fir/ b\nd s+ly by a d>k ribbon1 & ea* pair b\nd toge!r by a light] ribbon4 ,a ?9 gauze veil cov]s ! head1 :i* is surm\nt$ by a cr[n ( exquisite workman%ip4 ,illu/ration3 ,,greek ,,figure4 ,f ,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts4 ,! dress ( ! ,byzant9e wom51 at ! "t ( ! dismemb]m5t ( ! ,roman ,empire 9 #cie1 0 /ill ! loose or semi-loose tunic1 ) sleeves add$1 elaborately ornam5t$ 9 ! ri* diap]$ patt]ns peculi> to t p]iod & nation1 & conf9$ at ! wai/ by a girdle4 ,?is co/ume1 ) v>iations1 obta9$ until ! ,norman ,conque/1 :5 co/ume began to be m complex4 ,! long loose g[n is v>i\sly describ$ 9 docum5ts ( ! p]iod by ! names ( ! tunic1 ! gunna or g[n1 & ! kirtle4 ,!re 0 a %ort tunic1 ) sleeves rea*+ only to ! elb[s1 & !re 0 a long tunic1 ) tight sleeves1 worn und]nea?4 ,! kirtle1 su* z we are famili>is$ ) 9 ! dress ( a lat] p]iod1 _h n come into be+4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 ! t]m kirtle is indiscrim9ately us$ 9 ! description ( v>i\s g>m5ts4 ,tyr:itt describes x z a tunic or wai/coat4 ,9 ! ,romaunt ( ! ,rose ! damoselles "r "y are array$-- ,9 kirtles & noon o!r w$e1 evid5tly "h int5d$ = a long g[n or tunic4 ,! dress ( ! tw5ty "y squires *os5 by ,guy ( ,w>wick is ?us describ$3-- ,kyrtyls !y _h oon ( sylke ,also :yte1 z any mylke4 ,( gode sylke & ( purpull palle ,mantels above !y ca/e all4 ,hosys !y _h uppon1 b no s*one2 ,b>efote !y 7 ev]y*one4 ,bo? ,/rutt & "s o!r writ]s on ! subject ( co/ume appe> to be puzzl$ by ! col\r+ ( ! e>li] illum9ators1 pr9cipally1 h[ev]1 ) respect to ! col\r ( ! hair & be>d1 b also 9 reg>d to ! v>i\s details ( co/ume4 ,!y rem>k ! curi\s circum/ance ( ! hair & be>d be+ pa9t$ blue4 ,9 repres5tations ( old m5 ?is might be consid]$ only to indicate grey hair2 b ev5 ! fl[+ locks ( ,eve are pa9t$ blue 9 "o ,,ms41 & ! heads ( y\? & age exhibit ! same c]ulean t9t4 ,/rutt argues f ?is t "s art ( t9t+ or dye+ 0 practis$4 ,a writ] :o quotes ,/rutt says3 ,! hair be+ pa9t$ sometimes gre5 & orange is 9 fav\r ( ?is argum5t1 b su* in/ances are v r>e1 & may h aris5 f ! idl5ess ( ! illum9ator1 :o daub$ x1 p]haps1 ) ! ne>e/ col\r at h&4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 0 n 9 ! lea/ s4 ,! explanation is1 z any educat$ arti/ kn[s 7arti/s are n all educat$71 t ) ! old illum9ator ! decoration ( ! page 0 8 fir/ consid]ation--rightly s2 & ! col\r ( ! hair & be>d1 toge!r ) ! precise t9t ( ! g[n1 w\ld incl9e to ei!r blue1 r$1 or yell[1 accord+ly z ! exig5cies ( ! g5]al col\r s*eme dem&$4 ,?is fact %\ld always be kept 9 m9d 9 consid]+ ! col\r ( any illum9at$ ,,ms4 ,?is col\r+ is amus+ly p>odi$ by ,mr4 ,pun* 9 8 book ( ,briti% co/umes 7#ahfj74 ,he gives a fragm5t ( a love song1 commonly believ$ to h be5 writt5 by ,k+ ,vortig]n1 :o 0 inveigl$ into m>riage ) ! daught] ( old ,h5gi/3-- ,r[5a is my ladye-love1 ,h] robe itte is a gunna2 ,%ee we>s blewe haire h] e>s above1 ,o is %ee notte a /unna6 ,he adds3 ,critics disagree z to ! mean+ ( ! ^w '/unna1' b we incl9e1 ourselves1 to ?9k x 0 a bit ( ,saxon slang1 & f ! context we imag9e x 0 us$ by way ( complim5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,treu!',s ,,pilgryme ,,atte ,,pl[4 ,f ! ,,ms4 ,r4 #c1 #ad 9 ! ,libr>y ( ,tr9ity ,college1 ,cambridge4 ,a developm5t ( ! sup]-tunic 0 ! surcoat1 :i* 0 worn by ei!r sex dur+ ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies4 ,x assum$ a v>iety ( =ms1 & 0 ei!r a long loose out] g>m5t1 v>i\sly %ap$ & sleeveless1 or1 z dur+ ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 0 a %ort]1 closely-fitt+ jacket or coat ) sleeves1 & usually trimm$ ) m9iv] or o!r fur4 ,! surcoat1 or sup]-tunic1 dur+ ! ,anglo-,saxon p]iod1 0 worn by ! nobility only1 & 0 !re=e made ( ! mo/ co/ly mat]ial1 ( silk or ( f9e/ l951 & (t5 ri*ly embroid]$4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 embroid]y always =ms a conspicu\s elem5t 9 ,anglo-,saxon dress1 ! ,anglo-,saxon wom5 be+ fam\s = _! skill ) ! ne$le4 ,we le>n f ,eg9h>t t ! f\r ,pr9cesses1 daught]s ( ,edw>d ! ,eld]1 & si/]s to !l/an1 7 celebrat$ = _! skill 9 sp9n+1 weav+1 & embroid]+1 & ,edi?a1 ! wife ( ,edw>d ! ,confessor1 0 a p]fect mi/ress ( ! ne$le4 ,illu/ration3 ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,dress 7,,eigh? ,,c5tury74 ,a some:at rem>kable feature ( ,anglo-,saxon dress ( ! eigh? c5tury 0 ! long sup]-tunic ) long sleeves1 worn 9 travell+ or dur+ cold wea!r4 ,! sleeves n only cov] ! h&s1 b rea* consid]ably bel[ ! tips ( ! f+]s4 ,! sleeves worn by ! ,*9ese m&>9s at ! pres5t "t are id5tical ) ! long sleeves ( ! ,anglo-,saxon p]iod4 ,! tunic1 s f> z wom5's dress is conc]n$1 may be said to h f9ally disappe>$ by ! "t ( ! ,tudors1 :5 a woman's dress consi/$ ( kirtle or petticoat1 & bodice or /oma*]4 ,inde$1 ! tunic prop] may be said to h disappe>$ ) ! g5]al *ange :i* came ab\t 9 co/ume imm$iately aft] ! ,norman ,conque/1 ! ,saxon ^w gunna & ! ,norman surcoat bett] describ+ ! dresses ( t p]iod4 ,! t]m tunic is also appli$ to ! milit>y surcoat ( ! pres5t "t1 ?is article ( milit>y co/ume1 h[ev]1 be>+ no sort ( aff9ity to ! orig9al tunic4 ,an important adjunct ( ! tunic 0 ! girdle1 by :i* ! g>m5t 0 loop$ up & conf9$ )9 reasonable limits4 ,9 ! case ( ! m51 z ,/rutt obs]ves1 x s]v$ a d\ble purpose1 t ( conf9+ ! tunic1 & support+ ! sword4 ,girdles 7 ( v>i\s k9ds--a sa% ( silk or o!r mat]ials2 or =m$ ( lea!r1 ei!r a simple ?ong or ornam5t$ 9 v>i\s ways2 or ( diff]5t clo?s1 ri*ly embroid]$ & /udd$ ) jewels2 or ( metal4 ,! girdle ( ,*>lemagne 0 compos$ ( gold & silv]4 ,a girdel ful ri*e = ! nanes ,( p]ry & ( preci\s /anes4 ,ywa9e & ,gaw94 ,! ,imp]ial girdle ( ! ,holy ,roman ,empire 0 wov5 9 silk & gold1 hav+ a wov5 inscription ^u ! n>r[ bord]1 & clasp$ by means ( a heavy gilt buckle4 ,x is record$ t ^u ! return ( ,h5ry ,,vi4 to ,engl& aft] 8 coronation 9 ,france 9 #adcb ! ,"l ,mayor ( ,london rode to meet him at ,el?am1 be+ array$ 9 crimson velvet1 a great velvet hat furr$1 a girdle ( gold ab\t 8 middle1 & a baldrick ( gold ab\t 8 neck trail+ d[n beh9d him4 ,num]\s f9e examples ( ! girdle occur among ! e>ly brasses4 ,x 0 us$ also by bo? sexes = ! purpose ( susp5d+ or su/a9+ ! p\* or purse :i* 0 inv>iably worn dur+ ! ,middle ,ages1 z x 0 ! only =m ( pocket-- ,& by 8 gurdil hyng a purs ( le?ir1 ,tassid ) silk1 & p]l$ ) lat\n4 ,mill]'s ,tale4 ,! "n cut-purse appli$ to ?ieves is d]iv$ f ! circum/ance ( ! lea!r ?ongs :i* atta*$ ! p\* to ! girdle be+ slit ) a knife4 99 99 99 99 99 ,"s few ye>s ago a movem5t1 hav+ its orig91 s+ul>ly en\gh1 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 above all places1 0 in/itut$ = ! purpose ( induc+ ! mod]n ,greeks to adopt ! anci5t co/ume ( _! =efa!rs1 sev]al prom95t ,am]icans masqu]ad+ 9 ! /reets ( ,a!ns 9 tunic & peplum4 ,! only result ( ! movem5t 0 to create a div]sion among/ ! inhabitants1 :o probably reg>d$ _! w\ld-be in/ructors z h>mless lunatics4 ,! result 01 inde$1 inevitable2 su* s5tim5tal movem5ts are pr$e/9$ to failure4 ,a national co/ume is ( sl[ gr[?2 x is ! natural outcome ( ! g5]al habits1 mode ( ?\ght1 & temp] ( a p4 ,x is z impossible to br+ ab\t a sudd5 *ange 9 dress z x is to create a new /yle ( ar*itecture4 99 99 99 99 99 ,at ! annual congress ( ,prussian female elem5t>y s*ool tea*]s held rec5tly at ,altona1 "s int]e/+ pap]s 7 read :i* are g]mane to ?is subject ( co/ume1 & :i* s]ve to %[ t "s ( ! cont95tal peoples are m alive to ! importance ( ?is subject ?an we are4 ,we give a %ort rsum :i* appe>$ 9 ! pages ( ! ,daily ,*ronicle a %ort :ile ago4 ,! italics are ours4 ,s*ool-,inspector ,mull] urg$ ! necessity ( re=m ( *ildr5's clo!s1 /at+ t ! human body is a mo/ magnific5t "w ( art :i* is frequ5tly maltreat$ ) corsets & o!r tightly fitt+ g>m5ts4 ,fraule9 ,lis*nevska1 ( ,sp&au1 said a return mu/ be made to ! pure art ( ! anci5t ,greeks4 ,dur+ gymna/ic ex]cises *ildr5 mu/ be nak$1 & only immoral p]sons w\ld reg>d ?is z immoral4 ,?is rem>k 0 greet$ ) a /orm ( applause4 ,fraule9 ,b]?a ,jordan1 ( ,mulhaus51 deplor$ ! fact ( p becom+ s greatly e/rang$ f art1 a circum/ance :i* %e ascrib$ to ! degradation ( "w & ! sev]ance f nature1 bo? result+ f indu/rialism4 ,! rem$y1 %e consid]s1 lies ) s*ools & s*ool education1 & %e argu$ t mu* c be done by a c>eful selection ( pictures on ! class-room walls1 by awak5+ faculties ( obs]vation 9 *ildr5 & ar\s+ _! int]e/ 9 nature :i* surr\nds !m4 ,,footnotes3 #f ,) ! object ( mak+ m complete a "w on anci5t textile fabrics :i* ! ,prussian ,gov]nm5t is issu+1 ! s>cophagus at ,aix-la-,*apelle ,ca!dral 9 :i* ! rema9s ( ,*>lemagne re/ has be5 op5$1 & c]ta9 pieces ( valuable silk h be5 extract$ 9 ord] t !y may be exam9$ & photograph$4 ,! great ,franki% ,emp]or's bones 7 wrapp$ 9 ^! co/ly clo?s4 ,"o ( !m is anci5t ,con/ant9ople "w1 ! production ( ! celebrat$ ,imp]ial ,byzant9e work%ops1 & repres5ts a brilliantly col\r$ surface ) elephants embroid]$ 9 circles4 ,! o!r piece is believ$ to be ( ,sicilian orig91 ) a design ( birds & h>es4 ,*>lemagne's bones are /ill intact1 ) ! exception ( ! skull & "o arm1 :i* are 9 ano!r "p ( ! ,ca!dral4 ,m$ical m5 :o h exam9$ ^! bones say t ! ,emp]or 0 a man ( huge proportions4 ,! ,kais] is greatly int]e/$ 9 ! prep>ation ( ?is "w on anci5t tissues1 & x 0 8 ,maje/y :o induc$ ! ,ar*bi%op ( ,cologne to cons5t to ! op5+ ( ! s>cophagus4--,daily ,pap]4 ,,iii ,,! ,,mantle ,! gret ,emetreus ! ,kyng ( ,ynde ,uppon a /e$e bay trapp$ 9 /eel ,cov]$ ) clo? & ( gold dyapr$ wel ,cam rydyng lyk ! god ( armes m>s ,8 coote arm\r 0 a clo? ( ,t>s ,c[*$ ( p]lys :yte r\nd & grete ,8 sadil 0 ( br5d gold newe bete ,a mantelet ^u 8 s*uldre hangyng ,bret-ful ( ,rubies re$ & fir sp>clyng ,8 crispe h] lik rynges 0 i-ronne ,& t 0 yalwe & glit]yng z ! sonne4 ,,*auc]1 ,! ,knight's ,tale4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,coronation ,,mantle4 ,pres]v$ 9 ! ,imp]ial ,treasury 9 ,vi5na4 ,,iii ,,! ,,mantle ,( ! fam\s mantles record$ 9 hi/ory1 "o ( ! fir/ :i* w occur to ! m9d is t ( ,elijah1 9 :i* he hid 8 face :5 he /ood 9 ! cave at ,horeb1 & he>d ! /ill1 small voice1 :i* came aft] ! fire1 :i* came aft] ! e>?quake1 :i* came aft] ! great /rong w9d :i* r5t ! m\nta9s1 & brake 9 pieces ! rocks be=e ! ,"l4 ,& aft]w>ds1 :5 he f\nd ,eli%a ! son ( ,%aphat :o 0 pl[+ ) twelve yoke ( ox5 be=e him1 & he ) ! twelf?1 ,elijah pass$ by him & ca/ 8 mantle ^u him4 ,& aga91 on ! %ores ( ,jordan1 ,elijah took 8 mantle1 & wrapp$ x toge!r1 & smote ! wat]s1 & !y 7 divid$ hi!r & ?i!r1 s t !y two w5t ov] on dry gr\nd4 4 4 4 4 4 ,& x came to pass z !y /ill w5t on1 & talk$1 t1 behold1 !re appe>$ a *>iot ( fire1 & horses ( fire1 & p>t$ !m bo? asund]2 & ,elijah w5t up by a :irlw9d into heav54 ,& ,eli%a saw x1 & he cri$1 ,my fa!r1 my fa!r1 ! *>iot ( ,israel1 & ! horsem5 !re(4 ,& he saw him no m2 & he took hold ( 8 own clo!s1 & r5t !m 9 two pieces4 ,he took up also ! mantle ( ,elijah t fell f him1 & w5t back1 & /ood by ! bank ( ,jordan4 4 4 4 4 4 ,& :5 ! sons ( ! prophets :i* 7 to view at ,j]i*o saw him1 !y said1 ,! _s ( ,elijah do? re/ on ,eli%a4 ,& !y came to meet him1 & b[$ !mselves to ! gr\nd be=e him4 ,/4 ,m>t91 ,bi%op ( ,t\rs1 soldi] ( ,god1 divid+ 8 mantle ) ! begg> at ! gates ( ,ami5s1 is "o ( _m simil> /ories 9 ! e>li] hi/ory ( ! ,*ri/ian ,*ur*4 ,x is a v>iation ( ! /ory ( ,/4 ,*ri/oph]1 & is int5d$ z a lesson 9 *>ity4 ,! leg5d rec\nts t ,*ri/ appe>$ to him ! foll[+ night cov]$ ) ! half ( 8 mantle4 ,:at s*oolboy b does n rememb] ! /ory ( ,raleigh's mantle1 :i* he ca/ into ! mire 9 ord] t ,que5 ,elizabe?'s feet might n be soil$8 ,! night _h be5 ra9y1 & j :]e ! "y g5tleman /ood1 a small quantity ( mud int]rupt$ ! ,que5's passage4 ,z %e hesitat$ to pass on1 ! gallant1 ?r[+ 8 cloak f 8 %\ld]s1 laid x on ! miry spot1 s z to ensure h] /epp+ ov] x dry%od4 ,elizabe? look$ at ! "y man1 :o accompani$ ?is act ( devot$ c\rtesy ) a pr(\nd rev]5ce1 & a blu% t ov]spread 8 :ole c\nt5ance4 ,! ,que5 0 confus$1 & blu%$ 9 h] turn1 nodd$ h] head1 ha/ily pass$ on1 & emb>k$ 9 h] b>ge )\t say+ a ^w4#g ,! mantle is ! cloak or out]mo/ cov]+ to ! body1 & 0 orig9ally worn ei!r :5 ! wea!r 0 unpropiti\s1 or1 z occasion dem&$4 ,! peplum ( ! ,greeks 01 9 fact1 a mantle1 worn by bo? sexes1 & 0 occasionally v long1 pass+ twice r\nd ! body1 fir/ und]nea? ! arms & !n ov] ! %\ld]4 ,9 ra9y or cold wea!r x 0 pull$ ov] ! head1 & also 9 times ( m\rn+4 ,! peplum _h no clasps or fa/5+s ( any sort1 b 0 kept 9 its place by its own involutions1 ( :i* ! comb9ations 7 almo/ endless4 ,x w readily be und]/ood t ! natural fold+s ( drap]y1 possess+ 9 !mselves s mu* v>iety & int]e/1 :5 ?r[n ov] a =m s beautifully proportion$ z is ! human figure1 gave ! utmo/ grace ( l9e & =m1 & ?is fact makes x all ! m surpris+ t ! natural fold+s ( drap]y are n tak5 great] advantage ( 9 mod]n dress4 ,! peplum 0 (t5 diap]$ ) sprigs1 spots1 />s1 or o!r patt]n+s1 & 0 occasionally ri*ly bord]$4 ,! ,greeks also occasionally wore a %ort] & simpl] cloak1 call$ *lamys1 9 lieu ( ! m ample peplum2 su* a %ort mantle is ! "o :i* we see ^u ! %\ld]s ( ! ,apollo ,belvid]e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plan ,,( ,,! ,,toga4 ,! ,roman toga correspond$ to ! ,greek peplum1 b diff]$ f x 9 %ape1 & 0 m ample1 = :ile ! peplum 0 squ>e1 or r oblong1 ! toga assum$ ! =m ( two semicircles--a l>g] & a small] "o1 or1 m correctly speak+1 a semicircle & ! small] segm5t ( a circle1 :i* 0 d\bl$ ov] ! semicircle be=e adju/m5t4 ,"o end ( ! toga 0 !n plac$ ^u ! left %\ld] 9 su* a position t ! end or po9t j t\*$ ! gr\nd1 ! re/ ( ! g>m5t drawn r\nd ! back ( ! figure1 und]nea? ! "r arm1 & flung aga9 ov] ! left %\ld]2 a sort ( loop or bag 0 !n drawn out at ! wai/ 9 front & s]v$ z a pocket4 ,! toga measur$ #ah feet f tip to tip1 or ?ree times ! height ( a man4 ,x 0 worn always ov] ! tunic--at any rate dur+ ! lat] ,roman "t4 ,horace1 9 8 f\r? ,epode1 ?us satirises an up/>t3-- ,m>k1 z along ! ,sacr$ ,way ?\ flaunte/1 ,puff+ ?y toga1 twice ?ree cubits wide4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,toga4 ,f ,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts4 ,! mat]ial ( ! toga 0 wool1 9 ! e>li] "t & = ! common p2 aft]w>ds silk & o!r mat]ials 7 us$1 col\r$ or bord]$ accord+ to ! rank or /ation ( ! we>]4 ,! mantle--t is1 ! simple squ>e or oblong cloak :i* 0 d]iv$ f ! ,greek peplum--0 worn 9 diff]5t ways f ! ,roman p]iod onw>ds1 ei!r ?r[n loosely ov] ! %\ld]s z 0 ! peplum1 or fa/5$ at ! %\ld] or brea/ by means ( fibul1 r+s1 or cords4 ,9 a bas-relief f\nd at ,autun & engrav$ 9 ,montfaucon1 an ar*druid is repres5t$ ) a long mantle rea*+ to ! gr\nd1 ! ends drawn ?r\gh a r+ ^u ! left %\ld]4 ,! l>ge coronation mantle ( ! ,holy ,roman ,empire1 pres]v$ 9 ! ,imp]ial ,treasury at ,vi5na1 is semicircul> 9 %ape1 ( r$ silk1 ri*ly embroid]$ 9 gold ?read1 ! outl9es emphasis$ by r[s ( se$ pe>ls4 ,! design1 :i* is divid$ 9 ! middle by a repres5tation ( a palm tree1 figures on ei!r side a lion spr++ ^u a camel1 & is treat$ ) t noble conv5tion *>act]i/ic ( e>ly ,sicilian design4 ,on ! bord] ( ! curv$ edge is work$ an ,arabic inscription 7common 9 e>li] ,sicilian fabrics71 /at+ t ! robe 0 work$ 9 ! ,royal factory at ,pal]mo 9 #aacd4 ,"o ( ! gifts :i* ! five maid5s pres5t to ,b]yn f ,duke ,isope is a purple mantle-- ,! ?irde _h a mantell ( lu/y fres% col\re ,! uttir "p ( purpell i-furr$ ) pel\re4 ,! ,tale ( ,b]yn4 ,! mantle 0 a di/+ui%+ feature ( ! co/ume ( ! ,franks1 :i* 0 a v>iation ( ,roman or classic dress1 i4e41 ! loose tunic & mantle1 ) ! addition ( hose or leg cov]+ ) cross g>t]+2 bo? tunic & mantle 7 (t5 elaborately bord]$ 9 a /yle ( ornam5t :i* /rongly betray$1 9 fact1 0 a developm5t (1 ,byzant9e influ5ces4 ,k+ ,john ( ,gascogny hav+ be5 c\nsell$ by 8 b>ons to yield up to ,*>lemagne ! f\r sons ( ,aymon1 aft] mu* sorr[1 summons 8 secret>y--,come =?1 syre ,pet]1 & write a lett] f me to ! ,k+e ,*>lemagne1 z ,i %all telle y3 ,x is t ,i s5de hym salutacyon wy? goode love1 & yf he wyll leve me my londe 9 peas1 ,i promyse hym t a=e t5 dayes b5 pa/e1 ,i %all delyv] unto hym ! f\re sones ( ,aymon1 & he %all fynde !ym 9 ! playne ( ,valcol\rs clo!d ) sc>lette furr$ wy? ermynes1 & ridynge ^u mewles1 b]ynge 9 !yr h&es fl[res & roses = a tok51 bycause t m5 %all bett] kn[e !m4 ,*>lemagne calls !n 8 *amb]la9--,make a lettre to ,kyng ,yon ( ,gascoyne 9 my behalve4 ,wryte t ,i s5de hym salutacyon & goode love1 & t yf he doo? = me z he say?1 ,i %all encrease 8 royame wy? f\rt5e goode ca/elles1 & !r( ,i gyve hym = surete our lorde & saynte ,d5ys ( ,fraunce1 & t ,i s5de hym f\r mauntelles ( sc>lette furr$ wy? ermynes1 = to clo! wy?all ! trayt\res1 :5 !y %all goo to ! playne ( ,valcol\res1 & !re !y %all be hang$1 yf ,god wyll4#h ,! ,v5etian mantle :i* ,*>lemagne wore 01 accord+ to an e>ly ,fr5* writ] quot$ by ,/rutt1 ( a grey or blue col\r4 ,x 0 quadrangul> 9 its =m1 & s d\bl$ t :5 plac$ ^u ! %\ld]s x hung d[n z l[ z ! feet be=e & beh9d1 b on ! sides x sc>cely rea*$ to ! knees4 ,9 ! ,anglo-,saxon dress ( ! e>li] p]iod1 ! mantle is a simple squ>e ) a bord] on ! out] side1 ! two upp] corn]s be+ ga!r$ toge!r at ! %\ld]s & fa/5$ ) broo*es connect$ by a *a94 ,x is an in/ance ( a v decorative effect be+ produc$ by simple means4 ,! coronation mantle ( ,edw>d ! ,confessor 0 ri*ly embroid]$ by 8 ,que51 ,edi?a4 ,william ( ,malmesbury m5tions a mantle pres5t$ to ,h5ry ,i4 by ,rob]t ,bloet1 ,bi%op ( ,l9coln1 :i* 0 l9$ ) black sables ) :ite spots1 & co/ #ajj1 a l>ge sum 9 ^? days4 ,! mantle1 dur+ ! ,norman p]iod1 und]w5t little *ange4 ,x 0 fa/5$1 ei!r ^u "o ( ! %\ld]s1 g5]ally ! "r1 or 9 front1 by means ( fibul or p9s ( an ornam5tal "*4 ,9 ! e>lie/ sculptur$ effigies ( ,engli% ,sov]eigns :i* we possess1 ^? ( ,h5ry ,i4 & 8 ,que5 ,matilda at ! we/ door ( ,ro*e/] ,ca!dral1 ! ,k+ is repres5t$ 9 a long dalmatic1 ) a loose mantle ?r[n ov] 8 left arm4 ,! ,que5 has a m =mal mantle1 re/+ ^u ei!r %\ld]1 ! sy/em ( fa/5+ ( :i* is hidd5 by ! two long plaits ( hair :i* fall d[n on ei!r side1 b :i* 0 probably "s k9d ( ornam5tal /rap4 ,! ord9>y mantles ( ?is p]iod 7 (t5 provid$ ) a capa or c[l1 :i* 0 drawn ov] ! head & frequ5tly us$ 9 lieu ( a hat4 ,illu/ration3 ,,/atue ,,( ,,que5 ,,matilda ,,at ,,ro*e/]4 ,9 ! effigies ( ! ,plantag5et ,k+s1 ! mantles are g5]ally ( ! long fl[+ "* above describ$1 v>i$ by ri* bord]+s or embroid]+s4 ,h5ry ,,ii41 h[ev]1 introduc$ a %ort] mantle 7cloak ( ,anj\71 f :i* circum/ance he obta9$ ! sobriquet ( ,curt manteau4 ,! effigy ( ,eleanor ( ,ca/ile1 8 ,que51 9 ! ,abbey ( ,fontevraud 9 ,norm&y1 %[s a mantle embroid]$ ) a p[d]+ ( gold cresc5ts4 ,t ( ,cur de ,lion1 9 ! same ,abbey1 has a squ>e-bord]$ mantle fa/5$ at ! brea/ by a fibula at ! upp] corn]s4 ,! two l[] corn]s are pla9ly %[n 9 ! /atue fold$ ov] ea* o!r4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,iii4 co/ume g5]ally increas$ 9 spl5d\r4 ,! effigy ( ?is mon>*1 h[ev]1 exhibits a loose pla9 mantle1 fa/5$ by a fibula on ! "r %\ld]1 ! folds ( ! mantle hang+ 9 a s]ies ( regul> fe/oons ov] ! front ( ! figure4 ,9 ! ,h>leian ,,mss4 is a satirical ,lat9 ,song ^u ! ,tailors ( ?is reign 7,h5ry ,,iii471 an ,engli% v]sion ( :i* is includ$ 9 ,mr4 ,wright's ,political ,songs1 publi%$ by ! ,camd5 ,society4 ,address+ ! tailors1 x comm5ces3-- ,i h said ye are gods2 :y %\ld ,i omit ! s]vice :i* %\ld be said on fe/ival days8 ,gods c]ta9ly ye are1 :o c trans=m an old g>m5t into ! %ape ( a new "o4 ,! clo?1 :ile fre% & new1 is made ei!r a cape or mantle2 b1 9 ord] ( "t1 fir/ x is a cape1 aft] a little space ?is is trans=m$ into ! o!r3 ,?us ye *ange bodies4 ,:5 x becomes old1 ! coll> is cut (f2 :5 depriv$ ( ! coll> x is made a mantle3 ,?us 9 ! mann] ( ,proteus are g>m5ts *ang$4 ,:5 at l5g? w9t] returns1 _m engraft imm$iately ^u ! cape a capuce2 !n x is squ>$2 aft] be+ squ>$ x is r\nd$1 & s x becomes an amice4 ,if !re rema9 any morsels ( ! clo? or sk9 :i* is cut1 !y d n want a use3 ( ^! are made gloves4 ,?is is ! g5]al mann]1 !y all make "o robe out ( ano!r1 ,engli%1 ,g]mans1 ,fr5*1 & ,normans1 ) sc>cely an exception4 ,?us cape is decl9$1 b mantel o!rwise3 9 ! fir/ ye> :ile x is fre%1 ! sk9 & ! clo? be+ bo? new1 x is laid up 9 a box2 :51 h[ev]1 ! fur beg9s to be worn (f1 & ! ?read ( ! seams brok51 ! fur is clipp$ & plac$ on a new mantle1 until at la/1 9 ord] t no?+ may be lo/1 x is giv5 to ! s]vant = 8 wages4 ,illu/ration3 ,,"l ,,burleigh1 #aebj-aeih4 ,national ,portrait ,gall]y4 ,photo by ,em]y ,walk]4 ,! ve/m5ts ( ! mo/ noble ,ord] ( ! ,g>t]1 f\nd$1 z e /ud5t ( hi/ory kn[s1 9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iii41#i consi/$ orig9ally ( a mantle1 a tunic1 & capu*on1 ( blue wooll5 clo?1 cut to ! fa%ion ( ! p]iod1 ! knights diff]+ only f ! mon>*s 9 respect ( ! tunic be+ l9$ ) m9iv] in/ead ( erm9e4 ,all ?ree g>m5ts 7 closely diap]$ or p[d]$ ) g>t]s ( gold1 ! mantle hav+ "o l>g] ?an ! re/ on ! left %\ld]1 enclos+ a %ield1 ,arg5t1 ) ! cross ( ,/4 ,george1 ,gules4 ,! ve/m5ts ( ?is ,ord] h be5 con/antly alt]$ dur+ diff]5t p]iods4 ,9 ! sev5? ye> ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 ! surcoat or tunic 0 ( violet 9 gra91 9 ! elev5? ye> :ite1 & 9 ! twelf? & n9ete5? ( long blue clo?4 ,!y 7 *ang$ aga9 to :ite 9 ! fir/ ye> ( ,h5ry ,v41 ano!r *ange to sc>let 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vi41 & aft]w>ds back aga9 to :ite4 ,! numb] ( embroid]$ g>t]s on ! coat & *ap]on 7 9 ?is reign limit$ to #abj = a duke1 #aaj = a m>quis1 #ij = an e>l1 decreas+ 9 ! same ratio to #fj 9 ! case ( a knight ba*elor4 ,! ,k+'s 0 unlimit$2 on ! surcoat & hood ( ,h5ry ,,vi4 !re 7 #agc4 ,! mat]ial ( ! mantle 0 *ang$ to velvet dur+ ?is reign1 l9$ ) :ite damask or sat94 ,9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vii4 an important addition 0 made to ! insignia ( ?is ,ord]1 t ( ! coll>4 ,! :ole habit s5t to ! ,k+ ( ,ca/ile 9 ! tw5ty-sev5? ye> ( ?is reign consi/$ ( mantle1 kirtle1 hood & coll>1 & 0 ( purple velvet l9$ ) silk or s>c5et1 ! embroid]$ g>t]s entirely disappe>+4 ,! ,/atutes ( ! ,ord] 7 re=m$ by ,h5ry ,,viii41 :o also alt]$ ! dress to ! fa%ion ( ! p]iod4 ,! flat velvet hat or cap1 s famili> 9 ,holbe9's portraits1 sup]s$$ ! *ap]on or hood1 :i* 01 h[ev]1 /ill worn hung or dep5d+ ^u ! %\ld]1 & call$ ! hum]ale4 ,bo? hat & surcoat 7 ( crimson velvet4 ,! less] ,george1 or jewel ( ! ,ord]1 0 introduc$ dur+ ?is reign1 susp5d$ ^u ! brea/ by ei!r a gold *a9 or rib&1 :i* latt] 0 black4 ,9 ! reign ( ,elizabe?1 ! flat hat gives place to "o ) a high] cr[n1 be+ m 9 keep+ ) ! fa%ion ( ! "t1 b no o!r alt]ation ( ! habit 0 made4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ,*>les ,,ii4 o/ri* or h]on plumes appe> 9 ! cap1 & ! broad blue rib& 0 worn ov] ! left %\ld] & "u ! "r arm4 ,z at pres5t worn1 ! mantle is ( purple velvet l9$ ) taffetas1 be>+ on ! left %\ld] ! badge ( ! ,ord]1 viz41 a silv] escut*eon *>g$ ) ! r$ cross ( ,/4 ,george & enri*$ ) ! g>t] & motto4 ,9 *apt]s x is worn ov] ! uni=m or ,c\rt dress4 ,! surcoat1 or %ort g[n )\t sleeves1 is made ( crimson velvet1 l9$1 l ! mantle1 ) :ite taffetas silk4 ,! hood1 worn on ! "r %\ld] ( ! mantle1 is made ( ! same velvet z ! surcoat1 & l9$ ) ! same mat]ial4 ,mat!w ,p>is1 describ+ ! solemnisation ( ! m>riage ( ,alex&] ,,iii4 ( ,scotl& ) ! ,pr9cess ,m>g>et1 si/] ( ,h5ry ,,iii41 says3-- ,!re 7 great abundance ( p ( all ranks1 multitudes ( ! nobility ( ,engl&1 ,france1 & ,scotl&1 ) cr[ds ( ,knights & milit>y ,(fic]s1 ! :ole ( !m pomp\sly adorn$ ) g>m5ts ( silk1 & s trans=m$ ) excess ( ,ornam5ts t x w\ld be impossible to describe _! dresses )\t be+ tiresome to ! read]1 ?\gh x w\ld excite 8 a/oni%m5t4 ,upw>ds ( "o ?\s& ,knights on ! "p ( ! ,k+ ( ,engl& att5d$ ! nuptials 9 ve/m5ts ( silk1 curi\sly wr\ght 9 embroid]y2 & ^! ve/m5ts on ! morr[ 7 laid aside2 & ! same ,knights appe>$ 9 new robes ( /ill m magnific5t decoration4 ,! nobles ( ,scotl& & ( ,france did n fall a :it bel[ ^? ( ,engl& 9 _! %[ & p>ade4 ,! ,b>ons & ! ,knights 7 habit$ 9 robes ( div]s col\rs2 sometimes !y appe>$ 9 gre51 sometimes 9 blue1 !n aga9 9 grey1 & aft]w>ds 9 sc>let1 v>y+ ! col\rs accord+ to _! fancies1 or ! wills ( ! ladies to :om !y _h d$icat$ _! amor\s v[s4 ,_! brea/s 7 adorn$ ) fibul1 or broo*es ( gold2 & _! %\ld]s ) preci\s /ones ( great magnitude1 su* z em]alds1 sapphires1 jac9?s1 pe>ls1 rubies1 & o!r ri* ornam5ts4 ,! ladies :o att5d$ _h r+s ( gold1 set ) topaz /ones & diamonds1 ^u _! f+]s2 _! heads 7 adorn$ ) elegant cre/s or g>l&s2 & _! wimples 7 compos$ ( ! ri*e/ /uffs1 embroid]$ ) pure gold1 & embelli%$ ) ! r>e/ jewell]y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,lod[ick1 ,,duke ,,( ,,ri*mond ,,& ,,l5nox4 ,engrav$ by ,j4 ,b>r4 ,9 an inv5tory ( ! w>drobe & jewels ( ,h5ry ,v41 tak5 9 #adbc at 8 decease1 m5tion is made ( heukes ( sc>let clo? & camlet1 & pil*es ( grey fur4 ,! ^w pil*e is a corruption ( ! ,lat9 pelliceus1 or ! ,saxon pylce1 & repres5t$ a coat ( fur worn dur+ cold wea!r4 ,! mod]n ^w pelisse us$ to describe a *ild's coat is d]iv$ f ! same s\rce4#aj ,aft] grete hete comi? colde1 ,no man ca/ 8 pil*e away4 ,,*auc]4 ,a f>ewell lett] ( ,bi%op ,ridley 7,foxe's ,book ( ,m>tyrs71 describ+ ! suff]+s ( ,*ri/'s true soldi]s1 says3-- ,!y 7 /on$1 hewn asund]1 tempt$1 fell1 & 7 sla9 ^u ! edge ( ! sword2 "s w&]$ to & fro 9 %eep's pil*es1 9 goats' pil*es1 =sak51 oppress$1 afflict$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,portion ,,( ,,! ,,picture ,,( ,,! ,,miracle ,,( ,,/4 ,,b]n>d4 ,by ,fior5zo di ,lor5zo1 ,p9acoteca1 ,p]ugia4 ,9 ! inv5tory above ref]r$ to are m5tion$1 g\nes de noi] damask1 furrez de sides de foynes et m>t]ons4 ,! co/ ( ^! furs is also giv5--iii p>es de foyns1 *ascun cont' c4 be/es1 pris le pec' xd4 xiili4 xs41 ! m>t]on be+ m co/ly4 ,! foyne appe>s to h be5 ! same z ! polecat or fit*et4 ,! pylce 0 9 common use dur+ ! ,anglo-,saxon p]iod1 & worn by all classes4 ,9 ,mi*el's ,*roniques ,anglo-,norm&es1 c4 #aahe1 is describ$ a meet+ on a little bridge ne> ,we/m9/] betwe5 ,to/i1 ,e>l ( ,hunt+don1 & ,siw>d1 ,e>l ( ,nor?umb]l&4 ,! said ,e>l approa*$ s ne> to ,siw>d on ! bridge t he dirti$ 8 pelisse 7pelles7 ) 8 miry feet2 = x 0 !n cu/om>y = noblem5 to use sk9s )\t clo?4 ,?is evid5tly ref]r+ to a long mantle or cloak4 ,! ,anglo-,saxon ,*ronicle m5tions ! great gifts & _m treasures ( sk9s deck$ ) purple1 pelisses ( m>t5 sk91 weasel sk91 & erm9e sk91 :i* ,k+ ,malcolm ( ,scotl& & 8 si/] ,m>g>et gave to ! ,conqu]or 9 #ajgd4 ,dur+ ! g5]al *ange :i* came ab\t 9 co/ume 9 ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 a %ort] mantle or cloak began to be worn1 :i* cont9u$ at int]vals & "u v>i\s =ms until ! univ]sal adoption ( coats at ! close ( ! reign ( ,*>les ,,ii4 ,9 ! temp]a pa9t+ ( ! miracle ( ,/4 ,b]n>d by ,fior5zo di ,lor5zo 9 ! ,p9acoteca at ,p]ugia1 a "y man is we>+ a %ort cloak or mantle1 hang+ 9 v =mal folds f ! %\ld] & rea*+ a little bel[ ! middle4 ,! mantle is button$ ^u ! "r %\ld]1 ?us repeat+ ! pr9ciple ( ! ,roman toga1 :i* leaves ! "r arm free4 ,a simil> %ort cloak is figur$ 9 a copy ( ,froiss>t's ,*ronicles 9 ! ,h>leian ,,mss4 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,!re 0 a reason = ! mantle be+ fa/5$ ^u ! "r %\ld]2 x 0 t ! "r arm is ! sword-arm4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 does n apply to ! toga1 :i* is ! la/ g>m5t t a man w\ld fight 94 ,two o!r figures 9 ! picture above m5tion$ are habit$ 9 long cloaks rea*+ to ! feet1 ) full sleeves2 ! cloak ( ! d>k figure l9$ & bord]$ ) m9iv]1 & ! o!r ( a diff]5t fur4 ,^! long robes ) ample sleeves con/antly occur 9 ,b5ozzo ,gozzoli's frescoes 9 ! ,campo ,santo at ,pisa1 ei!r fl[+ loosely or conf9$ by a girdle1 & g5]ally l9$ & bord]$ ) m9iv]1 :i* appe>s to be a fav\rite enri*m5t ) ,b5ozzo4 ,^! g>m5ts are worn usually by m eld]ly p]sons4 ,9 a small b extremely elaborate & beautiful picture by ,fra ,angelico1 9 ! ,conv5t ( ,san ,m>co at ,flor5ce1 a figure appe>s habit$ 9 "o ( ^! long robes1 hav+ op5+s = ! sleeves ( ! "u g>m5t1 :i* are ( a diff]5t mat]ial1 to pass ?r\gh4 ,! dress is conf9$ by a ri* girdle4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ,elizabe? ! %ort cloak1 or cape cloak1 cont9u$ to be worn4 ,x rea*$ sc>cely bel[ ! wai/belt1 0 provid$ ) a coll>1 :i* 0 (t5 deep1 & 0 l9$ ) silk or sat9 ( a diff]5t col\r to ! outside1 (t5 extremely ri*4 ,"h is a cloke co/ fifty p\nd1 wife1 ,:i* ,i c sell = ?irty :5 ,i h se5 ,all ,london 9't1 & ,london has se5 me4 ,,b5 ,,jonson1 ,! ,devil is an ,ass4 ,! ,spani% cloak 0 ?r[n loosely ov] ! %\ld]s some:at aft] ! mann] ( ! toga4 ,x 0 cu/om>y to wrap x ar\nd ! left arm to s]ve z a %ield 9 duels4 ,9 ! portrait ( ,pr9ce ,h5ry1 elde/ son ( ,james ,i4 7p4 #ajc71 ! ,pr9ce is figur$ z we>+ a long mantle rea*+ to ! knees4 ,x has a coll>1 a ri*ly jewell$ bord]1 & is l9$ ) silk damask4 ,! ,puritan cloak did n diff] mat]ially 9 %ape f t worn by ! ,cavali]s1 b1 l ! re/ ( ,puritan dress1 0 entirely b>e ( ornam5t3-- ,he 0 tall & fair1 & _h pla9 b v good cloa?s on 8 back 7,bunyan1 ,life ( ,mr4 ,badman74 ,!re are a numb] ( ref]5ces to dress 9 ,pepys's ,di>y1 :i* cov]s a p]iod ( t5 ye>s1 #afei-fi4 ,"u date ,july #a1 #affj1 he writes3 ,?is morn+ came home my f9e camlett cloak1 ) gold buttons1 & a silk suit1 :i* co/ me mu* money1 & ,i pray ,god to make me able to pay = x4 ,ab\t ?is "t a %ort] cloak1 rea*+ to a little bel[ ! wai/1 came into fa%ion4 ,on ,octob] #g? 7,"l's ,day7 ( ! same ye>1 #affj1 occurs ! entry3 ,to ,:itehall on foot1 call+ at my fa!r's to *ange my long black cloake = a %ort "o1 7long cloakes be+ n[ q out71 b he be+ gone to *ur*1 ,i c\ld n get "o4 ,illu/ration3 ,,pr9ce ,,h5ry1 ,,elde/ ,,son ,,( ,,james ,i4 ,"u date ,octob] #bb1 #affc1 occurs an entry :i* ref]s to ! mat]ial ( ! cloak4 ,! ,que5 0 ill ( ! spott$ fev]1 &1 ^u he>+ t %e _h gr[n worse1 he s5ds to 8 tailor to /op ! mak+ ( 8 velvet cloak 7presumably col\r$7 till ,i see :e!r %e lives or dies4 ,! velvet1 h[ev]1 ref]r$ to ! l9+ ( ! cloak1 :i* 0 (t5 ri*] ?an ! outside4 ,on ! #bi? ( ! foll[+ mon? 7! ,que5 _h recov]$ & 0 ab\t aga97 he dons 8 be/ black clo? suit1 trimm$ ) sc>let ribbon1 v neat1 & 8 cloak l9$ ) velvet1 & a new beav]1 :i* altoge!r is v noble4 ,9 ! reign ( ,william ,,iii4 ! long skirt$ coats ( ! m51 ) wai/coats rea*+ to ! knees1 r5d]$ any out] clo?+ unnecess>y1 except = ! colde/ wea!r1 :5 long cloaks 7 worn1 toge!r ) muffs1 by ! beaux4 ,muffs 7 at ?is p]iod worn z commonly by m5 z by wom51 & ?is fa%ion cont9u$ = ne>ly a c5tury4 ,! beau ) 8 muff is ?us satiris$ 9 ! comic op]a ,lionel & ,cl>issa1 by ,isaac ,bick]/aff1 c4 #agfh3-- ,a coxcomb1 a fop1 a da9ty milk-sop2 ,:o1 ess5c'd & diz5'd f bottom to top1 ,looks j l a doll = a mill9]'s %op4 ,a ?+ full ( prate1 & pride & conceit2 ,all fa%ion1 no weight2 ,:o %rugs & takes snuff2 & c>ries a muff2 ,a m9nik91 f9ick+1 ,fr5* p[d]-puff6 ,illu/ration3 ,,e>l ,,( ,,ro*e/]1 #afda-agaa4 ,knell]1 ,national ,portrait ,gall]y4 ,photo by ,walk] ,cock]ell4 ,! mantle does n appe> to h p>ticul>ly excit$ ! wra? ( ! satiri/s4 ,x is1 inde$1 s entirely reasonable a g>m5t bo? = m5 & wom51 t x is difficult to see h[ x c\ld possibly provide mat]ial = satire4 ,broadly speak+1 !re are ?ree conditions necess>y to beautiful dress1 namely1 beauty ( mat]ial1 excell5ce ( workman%ip1 & v>iety ( fold4 ,if ornam5t be introduc$1 x %\ld be ( a good "*1 & employ$ r 9 accordance ) ^? well und]/ood laws ( contra/ ?an an indiscrim9ate cov]+ ( ! :ole field2 9 fact1 ?is defeats its own purpose1 z ri*ness ( effect dep5ds ^u conc5tration1 z a pa9t] focusses light1 col\r1 or o!r int]e/ 9 a p>ticul> "p ( 8 "w & all[s no?+ to detract f x4 ,z a g5]al rule1 pla9 spaces are be/ adapt$ = ornam5tation1 al?\gh 9 ! ri* brocades ( ! f9e p]iods ! fold+s ( ! mat]ial give an add$ ri*ness & v>iety to ! patt]n+4 ,! mantle1 !re=e1 is usually b>e ( ornam5t or simply bord]$1 except = occasions ( high c]emony2 c]ta9ly pla9 if worn loosely1 & _m fold+s ensue2 & any ri*ness ( ornam5t is conf9$ to ! m closely fitt+ portions ( ! dress4 ,9 a ^w1 ! decorative conditions ( dress are z well def9$1 z absolute1 z 9 any o!r ( ! ornam5tal arts4 ,illu/ration3 ,,duke ,,( ,,buck+ham4 ,,footnotes3 #g ,scott's ,k5ilwor?4 #h ,! ,f\r ,sons ( ,aymon1 ,caxton's v]sion4 #i ,?is *ivalr\s mon>* n only f\nd$ ! ,ord] ( ! ,g>t]1 b ev5 contemplat$ ! revival ( ! ,r\nd ,table4 #aj ,pil* or pil*]1 a scabb>d1 a cov]+ = ! sword4 ,,iv ,,! ,,d\blet ,,& ,,hose ,monsieur1 ! ,k+'s eld] bro!r1 has set up = a k9d ( wit2 & leans t[>ds ! ,philosophe side4 ,monseigneur d',artois pulls ! mask f a fair imp]t95t2 fights a duel 9 consequ5ce1--almo/ draw+ blood4 ,he has bree*es ( a k9d new 9 ?is _w2--a fabul\s k9d1 'f\r tall lackeys1' says ,m]ci]1 z if he _h se5 x1 'hold him 9 ! air1 t he may fall into ! g>m5t )\t ve/ige ( wr9kle2 f :i* rigor\s encasem5t ! same f\r1 9 ! same way1 & ) m ef=t1 h to deliv] him at night4'--,,c>lyle1 ,fr5* ,revolution1 ,book ,,ii41 ,*ap4 ,i4 ,illu/ration3 ,,italian ,,cassone 7,,fifte5? ,,c5tury74 ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,,iv ,,! ,,d\blet ,,& ,,hose ,! abs5ce ( wr9kle or fold1 allud$ to 9 ! above quotation1 is commonly sugge/ive ( ! mod]n _s 9 dress4 ,! fir/ ?+ an arti/ does 9 pa9t+ a figure 9 hose is to indicate ! little wr9kles or folds at ! knee & ankle4 ,?is1 z s]v+ two purposes1 fir/ z a decorative enri*m5t to ! limb1 & secondly z indicat+1 toge!r ) ! col\r ( ! mat]ial1 ! fact t ! limb is clo!d4 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 su* ?+s z fle%+s1 :i* are made ( "s mat]ial possess+ ela/icity1 & s r$uc+ ! wr9kles & folds to a m9imum2 b if !re is "o ?+ m ?an ano!r :i* is *>act]i/ic ( clo?+ or drap]y1 x is its folds--_! con/ant & endless *ange v>y+ ) e movem5t4 ,! ideal ( mod]n tailor+ appe>s to be some?+ :i* %all h z ne> z possible ! appe>ance ( a deal bo>d1 to elim9ate z f> z possible ! fold+s ( drap]y ) _! inf9ite v>iety & almo/ endless play ( light & %ade4 ,) ! d\blet & hose we deal ) a comp>atively rec5t p]iod1 :5 dress g5]ally assum$ a m =mal "*1 & ! loose tunic gave place to ! m closely fitt+ d\blet4 ,long be=e ?is1 h[ev]1 ! sleeves _h develop$ 9 v>i\s ways1 9 /range & fanta/ic %apes4 ,9 ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4-- ,cut worke 0 great bo? 9 ,c\rt & t[nes1 ,bo! 9 m5's hoodes & also 9 _! g[nes1 ,br\dur#aa & furre & goldsmi?'s worke all newe ,9 _m a wyse ea* day !y did r5ewe4 ,,h>d+',s ,*ronicle4 ,! tight sleeves ( ! reigns ( ! ?ree ,edw>ds _h giv5 place to a sleeve ( m ample proportions4 ,! monk ( ,eve%am speaks ( pokys %ap$ l a bagpipe3 ,! devil's receptacles1 = :atev] 0 /ol5 c\ld be popp$ into !m4 ,! cut "w above allud$ to 0 extremely fanta/ic1 ! jagg$ edg+s ( ! sleeves1 &1 inde$1 ! re/ ( ! co/ume1 tak+ ! %ape ( ! s]rations ( leaves1 z well z o!r ornam5tal devices4 ,9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv4 ! %ort jackets1 d\blets1 or p\rpo9ts1 7 provid$ ) closely fitt+ sleeves1 :i* 7 divid$ at ! elb[ & %\ld]1 all[+ ! %irt or "u-g>m5t to appe> z puff+1 ti$ ) ribbons at ^! po9ts1 & lac$ und]nea? up ! :ole l5g? ( ! arm4 ,illu/ration3 ,,figure ,,f ,,! ,,miracle ,,( ,,/4 ,,b]n>d4 ,by ,fior5zo di ,lor5zo1 ,p9acoteca1 ,p]ugia4 ,ano!r developm5t ( ! sleeve1 :i* la/$ = a long p]iod1 0 ! addition ( an out] sleeve ) a slit 9 ! middle to all[ ( ! arm ) its tight sleeve be+ pass$ ?r\gh1 ! re/ ( ! sleeve hang+ d[n4 ,?is 0 ornam5t$ 9 a v>iety ( ways1 ei!r by edg+s ( fur or by embroid]y4 ,hose1 t is1 ! m or less tightly fitt+ ne!r g>m5ts1 be !y bre*e1 hos51 or :at n1 h be5 worn f a v e>ly p]iod4 ,an illu/ration is giv51 f ,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts1 ( ,p>is on ,m\nt ,ida1 9 :i* he is figur$ z we>+ a closely fitt+ g>m5t :i* cov]s ! :ole body & limbs1 be+ button$ all ! way up ! legs & arms2 a %ort tunic1 also button$ up ! front1 be+ worn ov] ?is dress4 ,a simil> tightly fitt+ dress 01 9 fact1 worn by ! ,amazonian wom54 ,! cross-g>t]+1 worn by ! ,go?s1 ,franks1 ,anglo-,saxons1 & o!r nations1 is ref]r$ to "u ! %oe1 ( :i* x usually =m$ a "p4 ,"s k9d ( hose1 /ock+s1 or b&ages 0 inv>iably worn und]nea? ! g>t]+1 :i* (t5 ext5d$ ! :ole l5g? ( ! leg4 ,?is cross-g>t]+ probably orig9at$ ) ! practice among ! peasants ( enswa?+ ! legs ) hay-b&s4 ,! %ort tr\s] ( ! ,normans1 or tunic & tr\s] 9 "o1 ) %ort sleeves atta*$1 ( :i* s _m examples occur 9 ! ,bayeux tape/ry1 is a g>m5t :i* has puzzl$ _m writ]s1 on acc\nt ( ! app>5t difficulty ( putt+ x on4 ,x appe>s to h be5 put on f bel[ upw>ds1 by be+ drawn on ! ?ighs1 & aft]w>ds putt+ ! arms 9 ! sleeves4 ,9 ! illu/ration giv5 ( a simil> dress 7p4 #aaf71 ! metal plates or pieces ( lea!r :i* s]ve z arm\r are add$ to ! front ( ! dress only4 ,! cross-g>t]+ 9 ?is in/ance w\ld probably n rea* above ! knees4 ,illu/ration3 ,,p>is ,,on ,,m\nt ,,ida4 ,f ,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts4 ,f ! ,norman p]iod onw>ds1 tight hose cont9u$ to be worn1 & pres5t$ little v>iation except 9 ! matt] ( col\r & mat]ial4 ,! p>ti-col\r$ hose ( ! ,plantag5et p]iod & lat] call$ =? _m /rictures f ! satiri/s & morali/s1 *iefly cl]ical1 ( ! "t4 ,! r$ side ( a g5tleman1 !y decl>$1 gave !m ! idea ( 8 hav+ be5 half roa/$1 or t he & 8 dress 7 afflict$ by ,/4 ,an?ony's fire6#ab ,illu/ration3 ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,reta9]4 ,?is p>ti-col\r+ pres5t$ _m v>iations4 ,! legs 7 ei!r pla91 d>k & light alt]nately1 ( v>i\s col\rs1 black & r$1 black & yell[2 or a v>iation ( "o col\r1 r$1 yell[1 or grey1 z ! case may be2 or "o leg 0 /rip$ 9 v>i\s ways2 or ! p>ti-col\r+ w\ld assume v>i\s =ms1 z a zig-zag on ! ?igh1 or calf1 or bo?2 9 fact1 ! leg 0 reg>d$ z a field = ! dress design] to ex]cise 8 +5uity 9 ! matt] ( contra/1 ^u ! pr9ciple ( :at is kn[n 9 ornam5t z c\nt]*ange4 ,9 ,field's play ( ,a ,woman is a ,wea!rcock1 #afab1 "o ( ! *>act]s exclaims1 ,inde$1 !re's reason !re %\ld be "s diff]5ce 9 my legs1 = "o co/ me tw5ty p\nds m ?an ! o!r4 ,at ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury a new developm5t appe>s1 :i* began z an upp] g>m5t rea*+ only to ! knees1 also at ?is p]iod call$ hose1 upp] /ocks1 & trawses1 :i* 7 puff$1 sla%$1 & embroid]$ 9 v>i\s ways2 ?is 0 ! precursor ( ! bree*es1 or trunk-hose1 :i* by ! end ( ! c5tury _h develop$ to su* enorm\s proportions4 ,num]\s examples ( ! sla%$ p]iod w be f\nd 9 ! draw+s by ,holbe9 & ,dur]1 & ! engrav+s by ,hans ,burgkmair4 ,! sla%+s1 :i* may be reg>d$ z ornam5t 9 relief1 pres5t$ z _m v>iations z did ! flat ornam5t ( ! e>li] p]iod on ! pla9 surface ( ! leg4 ,! g>m5t 0 ei!r sla%$ d[nw>ds1 horizontally1 or diagonally1 & occasionally sla%$ to su* an ext5t t x appe>$ m]ely z a sy/em ( ribbons4 ,v>iety ( col\r 0 arriv$ at ei!r by ! "u-g>m5t1 /ock+1 or hose be+ ( a diff]5t hue to ! upp]2 or by a sy/em ( puff+1 9 :i* ano!r or ?ird col\r 0 introduc$4 ,! puff+ 0 also ( a diff]5t mat]ial1 ei!r ( silk or o!r light mat]ial1 :ile ! upp] or sla%+ 0 ( clo? or velvet4 ,x 0 an exce$+ly ri*1 ornate1 & fanta/ic p]iod2 ! j]k91 or body g>m5t1 toge!r ) ! sleeves1 7 also cut & sla%$ on ! same pr9ciple z ! l[] g>m5t1 or vice v]s1 ! sla%+s on ! body usually appe>+ diagonally on ei!r side4 ,9 two female portraits1 h[ev]1 by ,holbe9 at ,basle1 ! sla%+s appe> p]p5dicul>ly und]nea? ! brea/1 ! sleeve be+ sla%$ on ! same pr9ciple4 ,! greate/ ri*ness ( sla%+ always appe>s 9 ! sleeve1 a common =m be+ to sla% ! sleeve 9 ribbons1 :i* hang loose f ! %\ld] to ! elb[4 ,9 ! in/ances ( sev]al ( ! foot soldi]s 9 ,hans ,burgkmair's ,triumphs ( ,maximilian1 ! out] sleeve is simply cut to ribbons1 :i* /ream loosely f ! %\ld]2 & x seems1 inde$1 a little curi\s t at pres5t1 :5 all sorts ( devices are employ$ = ! purpose ( produc+ v>iety1 t "s fa%ion ( ?is sort has n be5 adopt$ = wom54 ,x repres5ts1 h[ev]1 ! mo/ extreme developm5t ( ! sla%2 x w\ld be impossible to c>ry ! pr9ciple f>!r4 ,we n[ arrive at ! p]iod ( ! enorm\s trunk-hose1 temp4 ,elizabe? & ,james ,i41 ( :i* an example ( _! highe/ developm5t appe>s 9 ! illu/ration ( ,knightly ,pa/imes--,hawk+1 #aege1 & 9 :i* ! middle ( ! body appe>s inflat$ l a balloon1 ! bomba/+ ( ! bree*es be+ c>ri$ to its utmo/ limit4 ,_! gipci]es are well 9 evid5ce 9 ea* in/ance4 ,?is article ( co/ume 01 no d\bt1 orig9ally a game bag1 b 0 aft]w>ds g5]ally us$ z a pocket or p\*-- ,an anlas & a gips] al ( silke ,h5g at 8 g]dul :ite z morne mylke4 ,,*auc]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,knightly ,,pa/imes3 ,,hawk+1 #aege4 ,! trunk-hose are1 accord+ to ,/ubbes 7,anatomy ( ,abuse71 ( ?ree k9ds--! ,fr5*1 ! ,gallic1 & ! ,v5etian hos54 ,! ,fr5* hose are ( two div]s mak+2 ! common sort conta9 l5g?1 bread?1 & sid5ess suffici5t1 & !y are made v r\nd2 ! o!r sort conta9 nei!r l5g?1 bread?1 nor sid5ess proportionable1 be+ n pa/ a qu>t] ( a y>d on ! side1 :]e( "s be pan$ or /rip$1 cut & drawn out ) co/ly ornam5ts1 ) canions adjo9$1 rea*+ d[n b5ea? ! knees4 ,! ,gallic hos5 are made v l>ge & wide1 rea*+ d[n to ! knees only1 ) ?ree or f\r g>des apiece laid d[n along ! ?igh ( ei!r hose4 ,! ,v5etian hos5 rea* b5ea? ! knee to ! g>t]+-place ( ! leg1 :]e !y are ti$ f9ely ) silk5 po9ts1 & laid on also ) r[s or g>des1 z ! o!r be=e4 ,& yet not)/&+1 all ?is is n suffici5t1 except !y be made ( silk1 velvet1 sat91 damask1 & o!r preci\s /uffs besides2 s t x is a small matt] to be/[ tw5ty nobles1 t5 p\nds1 tw5ty p\nds1 =ty p\nds1 yea1 an hundr$ p\nds1 ^u "o pair ( bree*es2 & yet ?is is ?\ght no abuse nei!r4 ,x has be5 /at$ by v>i\s writ]s t silk hose1 i4e41 /ock+s ( silk1 7 unkn[n 9 ,engl& prior to ! middle ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,h[ev] ?is may be1 silk /ock+s 71 9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,vi41 consid]$ z a gift wor?y ( a k+'s acceptance2 x is record$ t ,sir ,?omas ,gre%am 7^: portrait appe>s on p4 #aba7 pres5t$ ?is mon>* ) a pair ( long ,spani% silk hose4 ,illu/ration3 ,,sir ,,?omas ,,gre%am1 #aeai-aegi4 ,sir ,antonio ,m1 ,national ,portrait ,gall]y4 ,photo by ,em]y ,walk]4 ,9 ! inv5tory ( ! w>drobe ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 tak5 aft] 8 decease1 appe>s3 ,"o pair ( %ort hose1 ( black silk & gold wov5 toge!r2 "o pair ( hose1 ( purple silk & ,v5ice gold1 wov5 l unto a cawl1 & l9$ ) blue silv] s>s5et1 edg$ ) a passema9 ( purple silk & ( gold1 wr\ght at ,milan2 "o pair ( hose ( :ite silk & gold knit1 b\ght ( ,*ri/oph] ,mill5]2 six pair ( black silk hose knit4 ,we le>n f ,/[ t ,mi/ress ,montague1 ! ,que5's silk-woman1 pres5t$ ,elizabe? ) a pair ( black knit silk /ock+s1 :i* pleas$ h] s well1 t %e w\ld nev] we> any clo? hose aft]w>ds4 ,! bomba/+ ( ! trunk-hose 7! ^w is usually appli$ to ! d\blet1 b may be appli$ equally well to ! trunk-hose7 0 effect$ by means ( a /uff+ ( rags1 wool1 t[1 hair1 & ev5 bran4 ,hol9%$ relates a /ory ( a man :o is said to h exhibit$ ! :ole ( 8 b$ & table furniture1 tak5 f ^! ext5sive receptacles4 ,! "n trunk-hose w\ld seem a peculi>ly appropriate "o6 ,! /ory is probably apocryphal 7al?\gh q plausible7 ( ! "y man :o1 engag$ 9 animat$1 & app>5tly r excit$ conv]sation ) sev]al ladies1 caught 8 trunk-hose 9 a nail1 & let out ! bran1 ! hose collaps+ sudd5ly1 to ! con/]nation ( _! we>] & ! correspond+ amusem5t ( ! ladies4 ,illu/ration3 ,,philip ,,ii4 ,,( ,,spa91 #aebg-aeih4 ,national ,portrait ,gall]y4 ,photo by ,em]y ,walk]4 ,b5 ,jonson1 ,e ,man out ( 8 ,hum\r1 ?us rec\nts a mis=tune :i* happ5$ to ,fa/idio 9 a duel3 ,i _h on a gold cable hatb&1 !n new come up1 ( massie goldsmi?'s "w1 :i* ,i wore ab\t a murrey ,fr5* hat1 ! brims ( :i* 7 ?ick embroid]$ ) gold twi/ & spangles2 ,i _h an ,italian cut-"w b&1 ornam5t$ ) pe>ls1 :i* co/ ?ree p\nds at ! ,ex*ange4444 ,he1 mak+ a rev]se bl[1 falls ^u my emboss$ girdle--,i _h ?r[n (f ! hang]s a little be=e2 /rikes (f a skirt ( a ?ick sat9 d\blet ,i _h1 l9$ ) f\r taffataes2 cuts (f two panes ( embroid]$ pe>ls2 r5ds ?r\gh ! draw+s out ( tissue2 ent]s ! l9+1 & skips ! fle%2 & n hav+ leisure to put (f my silv] spurs1 "o ( ! r[els cat*$ hold ( ! ruffle ( my boot1 x be+ ,spani% lea!r1 & subject to te>2 ov]?r[s me1 & r5ds me two pairs ( /ock+s1 t ,i _h put on be+ a raw morn+--a pea*-col\r & ano!r4 ,9 ! same play1 ,fungoso1 reckon+ up ! price ( ,fa/idio's dress1 says3 ,let me see2 ! d\blet--say fifty %ill+s ! d\blet--& betwe5 ?ree & f\r p\nds ! hose1--!n ! boots1 hat1 & b&2--"s t5 or elev5 p\nds w d x all4 ,by ! ye> #aehc ! trunks are rifl$ ( _! cont5ts 9 ord] to provide /uff+ = ! d\blet4 ,x w be notic$ 9 ! cut ( knightly pa/imes t ! girdle meets at a po9t 9 front4 ,?is %ape 0 emphasis$1 ! d\blet protrud$ 9 front1 & hung d[n = "s di/ance1 & ! peas-cod belli$ d\blet 0 develop$4 ,we mu/ aga9 turn to our old anatomi/ ,/ubbes3 ,c]ta9 ,i am !re 0 nev] any k9d ( app>el inv5t$ t c\ld m disproportion ! body ( a man ?an _! d\blets ) great bellies d1 hang+ d[n b5ea? ! gro91 z ,i h said1 & /uff$ ) f\r or five1 or six p\nde ( bomba/ at ! lea/4 ,i say no?+ ( :at _! d\blets be made2 "s ( sat91 taffata1 silk1 grogra9e1 *amlet1 gold1 silv]1 & :at n2 sla%$1 jagg$1 cut1 c>v$1 p9*$1 & lac$ ) all k9ds ( co/ly lace ( div]s & sundry col\rs1 ( all :i*1 if ,i c\ld /& ^u p>ticul>ly1 r "t ?an matt] w\ld be want+4 ,! peas-cod belli$ d\blet is /ill p]petuat$ 9 ! p]son ( our e/eem$ contempor>y1 ,mr4 ,pun*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,illu/rissimi ,,g5]osissimique ,,pri4 ,,h5rici ,,magn ,,britanni ,,et ,,hyb]ni ,,pr9cipis1 ,v]a ,effigies4 ,,h5ry1 ,,pr9ce ,,( ,,wales4 ,engrav$ by ,simon ,passe1 #afab4 ,an excell5t example ( ! trunk-hose ( ! latt] "p ( ! reign ( ,james ,i4 appe>s 9 ! engrav$ portrait ( ,h5ry1 ,pr9ce ( ,wales4 ,! hose consi/s ( a s]ies ( ri*ly embroid]$ /raps discov]+ ! silk or velvet trunk 9 ! n>r[ int]vals betwe54 ,) ! reign ( ! m>tyr ,k+ ,*>les1 bo? peas-cod belli$ d\blets & trunk-hose disappe>1 & ! co/ume ( ?is p]iod is /rik+ly picturesque4 ,*>les 0 a man ( cultivat$ ta/e1 & h&some to boot2 he und\bt$ly influ5c$ ! co/ume ( 8 "t4 ,! e>lie/ engrav$ portraits1 by ,francis ,del>am & ,william ,hole1 exhibit him 9 long1 loose bree*es rea*+ to ! knees1 ) ! d\blet /ill po9t$ at ! wai/4 ,! m famili> co/ume ( ?is mon>* is1 h[ev]1 t :i* is se5 9 ! v>i\s portraits by ,v&yke4 ,! co/ume ( ! ,cavali]s is well describ$ 9 a little book on ,briti% co/ume publi%$ 9 ! ,libr>y ( ,ent]ta9+ ,k 9 #ahcd3 ,x consi/$ ( a d\blet ( silk1 sat91 or velvet1 ) l>ge loose sleeves1 sla%$ up ! front2 ! coll>1 cov]$ by a fall+ b& ( ! ri*e/ po9t lace1 ) t peculi> edg+ n[ call$ ,v&yke2 a %ort cloak 0 worn c>elessly on "o %\ld]4 ,! long bree*es1 fr+$ or po9t$1 z we h already m5tion$1 met ! tops ( ! wide boots1 :i* 7 also ruffl$ ) lace or lawn4 ,a broad-leaf$ ,flemi% beav] hat1 ) a ri* hatb& & plume ( fea!rs1 0 set on "o side ( ! head1 & a ,spani% rapi]1 hung f a magnific5t baldrick or sword-belt1 worn sa%wise ov] ! "r %\ld]4 ,we n[ arrive at ! p]iod ( ! d&iacal ,pepys1 :o describes ) great unction ! v>i\s *anges & details ( 8 co/ume4 ,on ,septemb] #ac1 #affj1 ! ,duke ( ,gl\ce/] di$ ( ! small-pox by ! great neglig5ce ( ! doctors4 ,he 0 buri$ on ! #ba/ at ,we/m9/]1 & on ! #bbnd our *ronicl] pur*as$ a pair ( %ort black /ock+s to we> ov] a pair ( silk ones = m\rn+4 ,on ,april #bc1 #affa1 ! occasion ( ! ,k+'s go+ f ! ,t[] to ,:itehall1 he rose ) ! l>k1 made himself z f9e z he c\ld1 & put on 8 velvet coat1 ! fir/ day t he put x on1 ?\gh made half a ye> ago4 ,septemb] #bi?1 #affa4--,?is day ,i put on my half clo? black /ock+s1 & my new coate ( ! fa%ion1 :i* pleases me well1 & ) my beav] ,i 0 7aft] (fice 0 done7 ready to g to my ,"l ,mayor's fea/1 z we 7 all invit$4 ,! long lac$ coats1 famili> dur+ ! latt] "p ( ! reign ( ! ,m]ry ,mon>* & ! succe$+ reign1 _h already come into vogue4 ,on ,may #aa1 #affb1 ,pepys repair$ 9 ! aft]noon to ,:itehall1 & walk$ 9 ! p>ke1 :]e he saw ! ,k+1 n[ out ( m\rn+ 9 a suit lac$ ) gold & silv]1 :i* x 0 said 0 out ( fa%ion4 ,! co/ume ( ! masses dur+ ! ,commonweal? & ,re/oration1 0 ! well-kn[n knee bree*es & /ock+s1 ) d\blet or j]k94 ,9 a poem call$ ,wit ,re/or$1 c4 #afeh1 is describ$ ! holiday dress ( a c\ntryman :5 c\rt+3-- ,& fir/ *ill put on my ,zunday p>ell ,t's lac't ab\t ! ,qu>t]s2 ,) a pair ( buckram slopps1 ,& a vlant+ pair ( g>t]s4 ,) a sword tide va/ to my side1 ,& my gr&fa!r's dug5 & dagg]1 ,& a peacock's vea!r 9 my capp1 ,!n1 oh1 h[ ,i %all swagg]6 ,ab\t ! ye> #afeh petticoat bree*es cross$ ! silv] /reak f ,v]sailles1 & became ! vogue at ! ,c\rt ( ,*>les ,,ii4 ,r&al ,holme1 writ+ 9 #afei1 describes ! dress z foll[s3--,a %ort-wai/$ d\blet & petticoat bree*es1 ! l9+ be+ l[] ?an ! bree*es & ti$ above ! knees2 ! bree*es are ornam5t$ ) rib&s up to ! pocket1 & half _! bread? ^u ! ?igh2 ! wai/b& is set ab\t ) rib&s1 & ! %irt hang+ out ov] !m4 ,! petticoat bree*es 7 n ridicul\s 9 !mselves--! mod]n ,scot* kilt1 :i* is an extremely picturesque & ev5 reasonable co/ume1 is made ^u precisely ! same pr9ciple2 x 0 ! absurd lace ruffles1 :i* hung droop+ bel[ ! knee1 :i* 7 worn ) ! petticoats dur+ ! e>li] p]iod1 & 9 :i* ,*>les ,,ii4 is figur$ 9 ,hea?'s ,*ronicle1 #affb1 :i* made ! co/ume a banality4 ,! figure ( ! exquisite ( #afgj f ,jacquem9 we>s ! petticoat bree*es1 b )\t ! ruffles or frills at ! knees4 ,x mu/ be confess$1 h[ev]1 t ! g5tleman possesses a suffici5cy ( frill6 ,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,exquisite4 ,f ,jacquem94 ,petticoat bree*es _h disappe>$ by ! end ( ! reign ( ,*>les ,,ii41 & we h n[ to deal ) ano!r di/9ct *ange 9 ! national co/ume4 ,9 an inv5tory ( app>el ( ,*>les ,,ii4 9 #afgi appe>s a suit ( clo!s ( "o mat]ial1 & consi/+ ( coat1 wai/coat1 & bree*es4 ,william ,,iii4 is figur$ 9 #afid 9 a long lac$ coat ) enorm\s sleeve cuffs1 ! wai/coat almo/ z long z ! coat1 ) l>ge flaps & pockets also ri*ly lac$1 ! ne!r g>m5ts be+ knee bree*es & /ock+s ) buckl$ %oes1 ! hat cock$ accord+ to ! fancy ( ! we>]4 ,?is coat1 inde$1 has1 ) v>iations1 exi/$ up to ! pres5t "t4 ,! gold lac+s1 ! r[s ( buttons d[n ! front1 ! huge cuffs1 inde$1 h vani%$2 b ! mod]n coat is1 fundam5tally1 ! same z its e>lie/ prototype4 ,! two buttons at ! back1 :i* n[ s]ve no purpose o!r ?an an ornam5tal "o1 once button$ up ! flaps1 & con/itute ! la/ rema9s ( ! coat's =m] glories4 ,t[>ds ! middle ( ! eighte5? c5tury ! coat fits tightly to ! body1 ! skirts be+ long & ample1 & made to /& out /iffly by be+ l9$ ) buckram2 ! l>ge ,kev5hull] hat has giv5 place to "o ( mu* m mod]ate proportions4 ,illu/ration3 ,,philippe ,,de ,,v5d,,me1 ,,gr& ,,prieur ,,de ,,france4 ,f an old pr9t 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,! fop ( ! day is ?us ridicul$ by ,diana 9 ! play ( ,lionel & ,cl>issa1 by ,isaac ,bick]/aff1 #agfh3-- ,ladies1 pray admire a figure1 ,fait selon le d]ni] g\t4 ,fir/1 8 hat1 9 size no bigg] ,?an a ,*9ese woman's %oe2 ,six y>ds ( ribbon b9d ,8 hair en baton beh9d2 ,:ile 8 =etop's s high1 ,t 9 ! cr[n he may vie ,) ! tuft$ cockatoo4 ,!n 8 wai/ s long & tap] ',tis an absolute ?read-pap]3 ,maids1 resi/ him1 y t c4 ,odd's life1 if ?is is all ?' affair1 ,i'll clap a hat on1 club my hair1 ,& call myself a man4 ,! %ort hair & l>ge bi%op's sleeves ( ! cl]gy are satiris$ 9 ! same play3-- ,lauk6 ,madam1 d y ?9k1 :5 ,mr4 ,lionel's a cl]gyman1 he'll be oblig$ to cut (f 8 hair8 ,i'm sure x w be a ?\s& pities1 = x is ! sweete/ col\r6 & y\r great pudd+-sleeves1 ,"l6 !y'll q spoil 8 %ape1 & ! fall ( 8 %\ld]s4 ,well1 ,madam1 if ,i 0 a lady ( l>ge =tune1 ,i'll be hang$ if ,mr4 ,lionel %\ld be a p>son1 if ,i c\ld help x4 ,,footnotes3 #aa ,embroid]y4 #ab ,fairholt1 ,co/ume 9 ,engl&4 ,v ,,! ,,kirtle ,,or ,,petticoat ,fal/aff4 ,:at trade art ?\1 ,feeble8 ,feeble4 ,a woman's tailor1 sir4 ,%all[4 ,%all ,i prick him1 sir8 ,fal/aff4 ,y may2 b if he _h be5 a man's tailor he w\ld h prick$ y--,wilt ?\ make z _m holes 9 an enemy's battle1 z ?\ ha/ done 9 a woman's petticoat8 ,feeble4 ,i w d my good w1 sir2 y c h no m4 ,fal/aff4 ,well said1 good woman's tailor6 well said1 c\rage\s ,feeble6 ,?\ wilt be z valiant z ! wra?ful dove1 or mo/ magnanim\s m\se--,prick ! woman's tailor well1 ,ma/] ,%all[2 deep1 ,ma/] ,%all[4 ,v ,,! ,,kirtle ,,or ,,petticoat ,! kirtle or petticoat is 9 reality a developm5t ( ! tunic4 ,x is ! tunic :i* has become a closely fitt+ bodice1 ) long drap]ies1 m or less =mal1 atta*$4 ,! names ( ! diff]5t portions ( dress h at diff]5t p]iods v>i$ almo/ indef9itely4 ,! fir/ item ( ! habit ( ! ,ord] ( ! ,g>t] is successively describ$ z tunic1 coat1 surcoat1 & kirtle4 ,! kirtle1 !re=e1 takes up ! /ory ( co/ume f ! "t :5 ! loose tunic gave place to a m =mal attire--broadly speak+1 f ! ,norman ,conque/4 ,dur+ ! elev5? c5tury1 h[ev]1 woman's dress 0 /ill ! loose tunic1 ! pr9cipal *ange be+ 9 ! rem>kable developm5t ( ! sleeves1 :i*1 al?\gh close fitt+ along ! :ole l5g? ( ! arm1 ei!r _h an extraord9>y atta*m5t at ! wri/ 9 ! =m ( a bag or p\*1 or 7 abnormally ext5d$ & wid5$ at ! wri/ & ti$ 9 knots to avoid tread+ on !m4 ,?is fa%ion is satiris$ 9 ! figure ( ! devil f ! ,cotton ,,mss41 giv5 9 ! introductory *at ( ?is "w4 ,9 ! ,romaunt ( ! ,rose1 writt5 at ! close ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 ,john de ,meun relates ! /ory ( ,pygmalion1 repres5t+ him z adorn+ ! /atue he _h creat$ ) a succession ( ! g>m5ts ( ! fa%ion ( ! p]iod ( ! poem1 ) ! purpose ( discov]+ :i* became h] be/3--,he clo!d h] 9 _m guises2 9 robes1 made ) great skill1 ( ! f9e/ silk & wooll5 clo?s2 gre51 azure1 & brunette1 ornam5t$ ) ! ri*e/ sk9s ( erm9es1 m9iv]s1 & greys3 ^! be+ tak5 (f1 o!r robes 7 tri$ ^u h]1 ( silk1 c5dal1 mallequ9s1 mallebruns1 sat9s1 diap]1 & camelot1 & all ( div]s col\rs4 ,?us decorat$1 %e resembl$ a little angel2 h] c\nt5ance 0 s mode/4 ,!n1 aga91 he put a wimple ^u h] head1 & ov] t a cov]*ief1 :i* conceal$ ! wimple1 b hid n h] face4 ,all ^! g>m5ts 7 !n laid aside = g[ns1 yell[1 r$1 gre51 & blue2 & h] hair 0 h&somely dispos$ 9 small braids1 ) ?reads ( silk & gold adorn$ ) little pe>ls1 ^u :i* 0 plac$1 ) great precision1 a cre/9e2 & ov] ! cre/9e1 a cr[n or circle ( gold1 enri*$ ) preci\s /ones ( v>i\s sizes4 ,h] little e>s 7 decorat$ ) two beautiful p5dants ( gold1 & h] necklace 0 conf9$ to h] neck by two clasps ( gold4 ,h] girdle 0 exce$+ly ri*1 & to x 0 atta*$ an aulmoni]e1 or small purse1 ( great value4 ,9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iii4 ! close-fitt+ bodice appe>s1 ) ! girdle ov] ! hips1 ! sleeves ei!r tight or provid$ ) an upp] sleeve ) long tippets or /ream]s f ! elb[4 ,lat] a k9d ( sp5c]#ac jacket1 or wai/coat1 0 worn1 fac$ & bord]$ ) m9iv] or o!r fur4 ,^! sp5c]-l jackets la/$ = a consid]able p]iod4 ,an example appe>s 9 ! effigy ( ,joan ( ,nav>re1 ,que5 ( ,h5ry ,,iv4 ,a simil> jacket aga9 appe>s 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,close ,,fitt+ ,,jacket4 ,,temp4 ,,edw>d ,,iii4 ,! ,italian cassone1 or m>riage *e/s1 ( ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies1 furni% u ) _m examples ( graceful dresses ( a "* peculi> to t p]iod & nation1 b :i* fa%ion obta9$ to "s ext5t else:]e2 a good deal ( ! grace ( ^! ?+s is due1 h[ev]1 to ! f9e conv5tion adopt$ 9 ! "w ( ?is p]iod4 ,a feature ( ?is dress is ! long wide sleeves /ream+ f ! %\ld]s1 "p sleeve & "p cloak4 ,! illu/ration :i* =ms ! head+ ( ,*at ,,iv4 w s]ve to give "s idea ( ?is dress4 ,at ! comm5cem5t ( ! ,tudor p]iod ! co/ume ( ! ladies is /ill t ( ! p]iod ( high head-dresses ( ! middle ( ! c5tury4 ,! wai/ is /ill high & n>r[1 ! g[n long1 ample & fl[+1 (t5 edg$ ) fur1 & ) fur coll> & cuffs4 ,by ! end ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 h[ev]1 co/ume _h und]gone a m>k$ *ange4 ,! wai/ sudd5ly drops1 ! /oma*] appe>s1 toge!r ) ! bell-%ap$ op5 g[n1 ) ri*ly embroid]$ petticoat1 :i* la/$ = a consid]able "t--to ! "t ( ,*>les ,i41 9 fact4 ,bo? cut g[n & inn] petticoat 7 ornam5t$1 ei!r by wov5 patt]ns or embroid]y1 ! ri*e/ ornam5ts be+ res]v$ = ! petticoat2 ! turnov]s or coll>s ( ! skirts be+ pla91 9 contra/ to ! ri* ornam5ts ( ! upp] surface4 ,an int]e/+ portrait ( ,que5 ,m>y 7,r$ ,m>y7 by ,lucas de ,he]e1 9 ! possession ( ,sir ,william ,quilt]1 0 rec5tly %[n at ! exhibition at ! ,guildhall ( ! works ( ,flemi% pa9t]s4 ,%e we>s a black dress ) /iff5$ coll> beh9d1 ornam5t$ ) gold embroid]y1 op5 at ! neck1 disclos+ a p9k bodice also ri*ly embroid]$1 ! sleeves furr$ at ! elb[s4 ,! era ( petticoat inflation began ab\t ?is "t2 x 0 su* a rem>kable developm5t t ! consid]ation ( x is res]v$ = a sep>ate *at4 ,9 ,hol9%$'s ,*ronicle1 #aegg1 appe>s an amus+ cut ( ,makbe? & ,banquho met by ! iij weird ,si/]s or ,feiries4 ,makbe? is figur$ z we>+ an a/oni%+ ,life ,gu>d helmet & plume4 ,! iij weird ,feiries are fasc9at+ creatures1 gaily dress$ 9 ornam5t$ kirtles1 ) panni]s1 puff$ sleeves & %\ld]s1 &1 9 "o in/ance1 ) a rem>kable peak$ turban ) /ream] on h] head4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,lady ,,( ,,basle4 ,holbe94 ,! dress ( ! ,tudor p]iod 0 magnific5t beyond description4 ,9 a w>drobe acc\nt ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 sev5 y>ds ( purple clo?-(-gold damask is apportion$ = a kirtle = ,ca!r9e ( ,arragon4 ,z 9 ! case ( ! m51 ! sleeves 7 inv>iably ! ri*e/ portion ( wom5's dress4 ,among/ ! inv5tories ( ?is reign we f9d3 ?ree pair ( purple sat9 sleeves = wom52 "o pair ( l95 sleeves1 pan$ ) gold ov] ! arm1 quilt$ ) black silk1 & wr\ght ) fl[]s betwe5 ! panes & at ! h&s2 "o pair ( sleeves ( purple gold tissue damask wire1 ea* sleeve ti$ ) aglets ( gold2 "o pair ( crimson sat9 sleeves1 f\r buttons ( gold be+ set on ea* sleeve1 & 9 e button n9e pe>ls4 ,?is extravagance 0 m ?an cont9u$ dur+ ! reign ( ,elizabe?4 ,x is ?us satiris$ by ,beaumont & ,flet*] 9 ,f\r ,plays 9 ,"o4 ,i w5t !n to ,vanity1 :om ,i f\nd ,att5d$ by an endless troop ( taylors1 ,m]c]s1 embroid]]s1 fea!r-mak]s1 fum]s2 ,all occupations op5+ l a m>t1 ,t s]ve to rig ! body out ) brav]y2 ,& ?r\gh ! room new fa%ions flew l flies1 ,9 ?\s& gaudy %apes2 ,pride wait+ on h]1 ,& busily survey+ all ! brea*es ,"t & decay+ nature _h wr\ght 9 h]1 ,:i* /ill ) art %e piec'd aga91 & /r5g!n$4 ,i told y\r wants2 %e %ew'd me g[ns & headtires1 ,embroid]'d wa/e coats1 smocks seam$ ?r\gh ) cut-"w1 ,sc>fs1 mantles1 petticoats1 muffs1 p[d]s1 pa9t+s1 ,dogs1 monkies1 p>rots2 all ( :i* seem'd to %[ me ,! way h] money w5t4 ,! beauties ( ! ,c\rt ( ! ,m]ry ,mon>* are made famili> to u by ! p5cil ( ,sir ,pet] ,lely4#ad ,! age 0 di/+ui%$ 9 ! case ( ! wom5 n s mu* = ! magnific5ce ( its co/ume z = ! scant9ess ( x4 ,x 0 to a c]ta9 ext5t a return to ! simplicity ( ,nature6 ,if1 says ,addison1 writ+ 9 ! ,spectator1 we survey ! pictures ( our great-gr&mo!rs 9 ,que5 ,elizabe?'s "t1 we see !m clo!d d[n to ! v wri/s1 & up to ! v *94 ,! h&s & face 7 ! only samples !y gave ( _! beautiful p]sons4 ,! foll[+ age ( females made l>g] discov]ies ( _! complexion4 ,!y fir/ ( all tuck$ up _! g>m5ts to ! elb[1 &1 not)/&+ ! t5d]ness ( ! sex1 7 cont5t = ! in=mation ( mank9d to expose _! arms to ! coldness ( ! air1 & injuries ( ! wea!r4 ,!y affect$ a mean betwe5 dress & nak$ness1 :i* occasion$ ! publication ( a book entitl$ ,a ,j & ,seasonable ,repreh5sion ( ,nak$ ,brea/s & ,%\ld]s1 ) a preface by ,ri*>d ,baxt]1 temp4 ,*>les ,,ii4 ,h]rick's l9es may be said to =e%ad[ ! p]iod3-- ,a sweet disord] 9 ! dress ,k9dles 9 clo!s a wantonness2 ,a lawn ab\t ! %\ld]s ?r[n ,into a f9e di/raction2 ,an err+ lace1 :i* "h & !re ,en?rals ! crimson /oma*]2 ,a cuff neglect$1 & !reby ,ribbons to fl[ confus$ly2 ,a w9n+ wave1 des]v+ note ,9 ! tempe/u\s petticoat4 ,a c>eless %oe-/r+1 9 ^: tie ,i see a wild civility2-- ,d m bewit* me1 ?an :5 art ,is too precise 9 e "p4 ,! rem>ks ( our di>i/ ,pepys on ! subject ( dress are always ent]ta9+1 al?\gh he displays p]haps less int]e/ 9 8 wife's dresses ?an 9 8 own4 ,april #ae?1 #affb4--,) my wife1 by coa*1 to ! new ,ex*ange1 to buy h] "s ?+s2 :]e we saw "s new-fa%ion petticoats ( s>canett ) a black broad lace pr9t$ r\nd ! bottom & be=e1 v h&some1 & my wife _h a m9d to "o ( !m4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,*ildr5 ,,( ,,*>les ,i4 ,aft] ,v&yck4 ,engrav$ by ,sir ,rob]t ,/range4 ,8 wife's dressmak]'s bill is app>5tly a mu* less s]i\s item ?an 8 own dress exp5ses1 :i* is p]haps ! rev]se ( ! pres5t ord] ( ?+s4 ,octob] #cj?1 #affc4--,to my great sorr[ f9d myself #dc worse ?an ,i 0 ! la/ mon?4444 ,b x ha? *iefly aris5 f my lay+s-out 9 clo!s = myself & wife2 viz41 = h] ab\t #ab1 & = myself #ee--or !reab\ts1767 hav+ made myself a velvet cloak1 two new clo? skirts1 a new %ag g[n1 trimm$ ) gold buttons & twi/1 ) a new hat1 & silk tops = my legs1 & _m o!r ?+s1 be+ resolv$1 h5ce=w>d1 to g l myself76674 ,m>* #bnd1 #affi4--,my wife ?is day put on h] fir/ ,fr5* g[n1 call$ a ,sac1 :i* becomes h] v well4 ,may ,day ( ! same ye>3 ,my wife extraord9>y f9e ) h] fl[]$ tabby g[n t %e made two ye>s ago1 n[ lac$ exce$+ pretty2 & inde$ 0 f9e all ov]4 ,& mighty e>ne/ to g1 ?\gh ! day 0 v l[]+2 & %e w\ld h me put on my f9e suit--:i* ,i did7674 ,a c]ta9 affectation by ! ladies ( male co/ume made its appe>ance t[>ds ! close ( ! c5tury4 ,lac$ & button$ coats & wai/coats 7 worn1 toge!r ) a sm>tly cock$ hat surm\nt$ ) a fea!r4 ,x also appe>$ e>li]1 dur+ ! reign ( ,elizabe?1 & 0 satiris$ by ,/ubbes1 & lat]1 9 ! ,spectator1 by ,addison4 ,we picture ,die ,v]non 9 a habit ( ?is k9d1 :i* 0 *iefly worn = rid+1 b also = walk+4 ,field+ describes ! appe>ance ( ,sophia ,we/]n at ! inn at ,upton 9 a simil> habit4 ,illu/ration3 ,,miss ,,lewis4 ,engrav$ by ,james ,mac>dell4 ,! rigidity ( ! bodice at ! comm5cem5t ( ! ,hanov]ian p]iod 0 an e*o ( an e>li] "t1 :5 ,good ,que5 ,bess /rutt$ x 9 :eel$ f>?+ale4 ,x 0 /rongly =tifi$ ) :alebone /rips1 & =m$ a ,v 9 front4 ,"o ( ! *ief *>act]i/ics ( ! dresses ( ?is p]iod 0 ! naturali/ic floral patt]n+s1 :i* 7 se5 ev]y:]e1 & ev5 invad$ ! dress ( ! m51 ^: wai/coats 7 gay ) embroid]$ fl[]s4 ,?is floral patt]n+ 0 ! outw>d & visible sign ( ! g5]al int]e/ :i* 0 !n tak5 9 natural =m4 ,l9nu1 at ,upsala1 0 prop\nd+ 8 botanical sy/em2 g>d5+ 0 g5]ally popul>4 ,mrs4 ,delany ?us describes a dress :i* %e saw at ,c\rt 9 ,febru>y1 #agda1 & :i* is suffici5tly indicative ( ! g5]ally prevail+ ta/e3 ,! ,du*ess ( ,que5sb]ry's clo!s pleas$ me be/2 !y 7 :ite sat9 embroid]$--! bottom ( ! petticoat br[n hills cov]$ ) all sorts ( we$s1 & e bread? _h an old /ump ( a tree t ran up almo/ to ! top ( ! petticoat1 brok5 & ragg$ & work$ ) br[n *5ille1 r\nd :i* tw9$ na/]sians1 ivy1 honeysuckles1 p]iw9kles1 convolvuluses1 & all sorts ( tw9+ fl[]s1 :i* spread & cov]$ ! petticoat2 v9es ) ! leaves v>iegat$ z y h se5 !m by ! sun1 all r small] ?an nature1 :i* makes !m look v light2 ! rob+s & fac+s 7 little gre5 banks ) all sorts ( we$s2 & ! sleeves & ! re/ ( ! g[n loose1 tw9+ bran*es ( ! same sort z ^? on ! petticoat4 ,_m ( ! leaves 7 f9i%$ ) gold1 & "p ( ! /umps ( ! trees look$ l ! gild+ ( ! sun4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,gamut ,,( ,,love4 ,f an engrav+ aft] ,watteau4 ,! quilt$ petticoat ) figur$ panni]s :i* is associat$ ) ! "n ( ,dolly ,v>d5 is a *>m+ dress ( ! ru/ic or idyllic sort4 ,l ! rigid bodice1 x 0 a developm5t ( ! dress ( an e>li] p]iod2 x 01 9 fact1 ! /iff out] kirtle ( ! ,elizabe?an & ,/u>t p]iods loop$ up 9 folds4 ,! fa%ionable luxuries ( ! latt] half ( ! eighte5? c5tury are ?us comm5t$ ^u 9 ! ,london ,magaz9e ( ,febru>y1 #aggc3-- ,! modes ( dress1 z well z ^? ( h\se-keep+1 are articles ( incr$ible exp5se4 ,"h ! ladies are beyond description extravagant4 ,!y h spr+ & summ]1 autumn & w9t] silks2 brocades1 gold & silv] /uffs2 "s ( :i* are b\ght at ! enorm\s price ( ?irty gu9eas a y>d4 ,! bir?day suit is nev] worn a second "t4 ,_! heads are adorn$ ) ,dresd5 & ,me*l9 lace1 enri*$ ) jewels ( imm5se value3 l>ge e/ates hang ^u _! e>s4 ,h[ brilliant are _! diamond necklaces & /oma*]s1 _! wat*es1 & o!r tr9kets6--_! v buckles are set ) pe>ls & preci\s /ones4 ,a "* 9 ,bon ,ton2 or1 ,high ,life ,above ,/airs1 by ,david ,g>rick1 #agge1 exclaims3-- ,?is fell[ w\ld turn rake & macc>oni if he 0 to /ay "h a week long]--bless me1 :at dang]s are 9 ?is t[n at e /ep6 ,o1 t ,i 7 once settl$ safe aga9 at ,trotley-place6--no?+ to save my c\ntry w\ld br+ me back aga93 my niece1 ,lucretia1 is s be-fa%ion$ & be-devill$1 t no?+1 ,i fe>1 c save h]2 h[ev]1 to ease my consci5ce1 ,i mu/ try2 b :at c be expect$ f ! "y wom5 ( ^! times1 b sall[ looks1 wild s*emes1 saucy words1 & loose morals6--!y lie a-b$ all day1 sit up all night2 if !y are sil5t !y are gam+2 & if !y talk1 'tis ei!r sc&al or infidelity2 & t !y may look :at !y are1 _! heads are all fea!r1 & r\nd _! necks are twi/$ rattlesnake tippets--,o tempora1 ,o mores6 ,9 ! ,lady's ,magaz9e = ,april1 #aghb1 ! foll[+ ann\ncem5t ( fa%ionable dress at ,p>is is giv53-- ,! ,que5 ( ,france has appe>$ at ,v]sailles 9 a morn+ dress t has totally eclips$ ! leve robe1 & is said to be ! univ]sal rage4 ,! robe is made ( pla9 satt91 *iefly :ite1 worn )\t a hoop1 r\nd1 & a long tra94 ,x is drawn up 9 ! front1 on "o side1 & fa/5$ ) tassels ( silv]1 gold1 or silk1 accord+ to ! ta/e ( ! we>]2 & ?is discloses a puck]$ petticoat ( gauze or s>s5et1 ( a diff]5t col\r4 ,! sleeves are wide & %ort1 drawn up ne> ! %\ld] ) small tassels1 or knots ( diamonds2 "u sleeves ( ! f9e/ cambrick1 full plait$1 & trimm$ at ! elb[ ) ,brussels or po9t1 give inf9ite *>ms to ! :ole4 ,! fa/5+ ( ! wai/ is n /raight d[n ! /ays1 b g5tly sw]v$1 & trimm$ ) n>r[ fur1 z is ! bottom ( ! robe4 ,a r\nd pa/ebo>d hat1 cov]$ ) ! same satt91 & )\t any o!r ornam5ts ?an a diamond buckle1 or an embroid]$ "o1 f9i%es ! dress1 :i*1 x is said1 w be worn ?r\gh ! summ]1 made ( light] mat]ials4 ,! ,fr5* ,revolution 0 productive ( _m ?+s--n ! lea/ ( :i* 0 ! *ange x br\ght 9 ! matt] ( dress4 ,! revival ( classicism 9 co/ume dur+ ! ,empire1 :i* 0 to a great ext5t due to ! influ5ce ( ! pa9t] ,david1 0 an e*o ( ! e>li] classic revival 9 ar*itecture1 ma9ly repres5t$ 9 ?is c\ntry by ! "w ( ! bro!rs ,adam1 :o design$1 z well z ar*itecture1 c>riages1 furniture1 plate1 & ev5 a s$an *air = ,que5 ,*>lotte4 ,) ! adv5t ( ! ,revolution ! fa%ion sudd5ly *anges4 ,! (t-quot$ c\plet-- ,%eph]ds1 ,i h lo/ my wai/2 ,h ye se5 my body8 a p>ody on a popul> song1 ,! ,banks ( ,banna--expresses ! disappe>ance ( t portion ( ! body1 :i* _h previ\sly be5 absurdly long4 ,! ample fl[]$ skirts ( ! middle ( ! c5tury gave place to light gauze cl++ cov]+s :i* exhibit$ z mu* ( ,nature's =m z 0--desirable4 ,! m]veilleuses appe>$ 9 gossam] g[ns1 slit f ! hips & button$ at ! knees aft] ! fa%ion ( ! ,mac$onian girls allud$ to 9 a previ\s *at1 ! legs encas$ 9 fle%+s4 ,behold h]1 t beautiful citoy5ne1 9 co/ume ( ! anci5t ,greeks1 su* ,greek z pa9t] ,david c\ld tea*2 h] sweep+ tresses snood$ by glitt]+ antique fillet2 bright-dy$ tunic ( ! ,greek woman2 h] little feet nak$ z 9 antique /atues1 ) m]e s&als & w9d+ /r+s ( rib&--defy+ ! fro/4#ae ,illu/ration3 ,,madame ,,de ,,m\*y1 ,,9 ,,ball ,,dress4 ,engrav$ by ,pi]re-,l\is ,surugue4 ,engli% ,co/ume f ,pocket-books1 #agii1 tells ( a ,russian (fic]1 :o1 hav+ be5 accu/om$ at home to e/imate ! rank ( a lady by ! w>m? ( h] clo?+1 (f]$ a woman ( fa%ion a p5ny1 9 ,bond ,/reet1 "u ! impression t f h] nak$ness %e mu/ be a paup]6 ,illu/ration3 ,,walk+ ,,dress1 #ahaj4 ,! ,empire g[n is figur$ 9 ! illu/ration ( a walk+ dress1 #ahaj4 ,x la/$ practically until ! adv5t ( ! cr9ol9e 9 ! =ties1 :5 x f9ally disappe>$4 ,!re has be5 rec5t talk ( its revival1 b danc+ m5 are f\nd to be oppos$ to x1 if = no o!r reason ?an ! difficulty ( kn[+ :]e to place _! arms2 & danc+ m5 are app>5tly a necessity4 ,! really fa%ionable p are ^? :o are n 9 ! fa%ion4 ,?is may at fir/ sight seem a p>adox1 b a mom5t's consid]ation w be suffici5tly conv9c+4 ,! ,empress ( ,g]many gives an ord] to h] dressmak] = f\r dresses1 on ! /rict und]/&+ t no o!rs are to be made l !m 7vide daily pap]74 ,?is is ! g5u9e woman ( fa%ion4 ,! p :o are 9 ! fa%ion are ! %eep4 ,bell-we!r takes ! leap & !y all jump ov]4 ,9 o!r words1 !re c be no really beautiful dress unless ! _s ( individualism is fo/]$4 ,dress %\ld express ! we>] & provide an index z to "*4 ,inde$1 x does1 z ! spectacle ( a woman or a man foll[+ bl9dly ! dictates ( fa%ion is suffici5t evid5ce t he or %e possesses no "* at all4 ,!re is also a mann] ( dress+ & ( we>+1 a c]ta9 elegance t di/+ui%es p ( ta/e f ! vulg>1 :i* gives ea* portion ( ! dress its due importance1 & imp>ts a h>mony to ! :ole1 z 9 ! composition ( a picture1 :i* weaves e detail into "o design & impresses ! behold] z a ma/]piece4 ,illu/ration3 ,,prom5ade ,,co/ume1 #ahcc4 ,moreov]1 !re is a *>m & piquancy ( mann] q ap>t f ! dress itself1 or ev5 ! p]sonal beauty ( ! we>]1 :i* di/+ui%es ! fasc9at+ woman4 ,a "* 9 ,! ,belle's ,/ratagem exclaims--) :at degree ( tru? ! read] himself mu/ det]m9e3 ,pho6 ?\ ha/ no ta/e6 ,engli% beauty6 'tis insipidity3 x wants ! ze/1 x wants poignancy1 ,frank6 ,:y1 ,i h kn[n a ,fr5*woman1 indebt$ to ,nature = no "o ?+ b a pair ( dec5t eyes1 reckon 9 h] suit z _m c\nts1 m>quisses1 & petits matres1 z w\ld satisfy ?ree doz5 ( our fir/-rate toa/s4 ,i h kn[n an ,italian m>quiz9a make t5 conque/s 9 /epp+ f h] c>riage1 & c>ry h] slaves f "o city to ano!r1 ^: real intr9sic beauty w\ld h yield$ to half ! little grisettes t pace y\r ,mall on a ,sunday4 ,illu/ration3 ,,p>is ,,ev5+ ,,dress1 #ahcc4 ,,footnotes3 #ac ,! t]m sp5c] is a mod]n "o1 & is said to orig9ate f an accid5t to ,"l ,sp5c]1 9 :i* he lo/ 8 coat-tails dur+ a hunt1 temp4 ,george ,,iii4 #ad ,?is day ,i did fir/ see ! ,duke ( ,york's room ( pictures ( "s ,maids ( ,hon\r1 done by ,lilly2 good1 b n l4--,pepys's ,di>y4 #ae ,c>lyle4 ,,vi ,,! ,,rise ,,& ,,fall ,,( ,,! ,,cr9ol9e ,= ,i w goe frock$ & 9 a ,fr5* hood1 ,i w h my f9e cassockes & my r\nd v]d+ale4 ,booke ( ,rob9 ,consci5ce4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,cr9ol9e4 ,f ,jacquem94 ,,vi ,,! ,,rise ,,& ,,fall ,,( ,,! ,,cr9ol9e ,field+1 9 8 description ( ! beauty & _m graces ( ,sophia ,we/]n1 feel+ 8 subject to be m ?an ord9>ily sublime1 introduces 8 h]o9e ) ! utmo/ solemnity1 ) an elevation ( /yle1 & all ! o!r circum/ances prop] to raise ! v5]ation ( ! read]3 ,hu%$ be e rud] brea?4 ,may ! hea!n rul] ( ! w9ds conf9e 9 iron *a9s ! boi/]\s limbs ( noisy ,boreas1 & ! %>p-po9t$ nose ( bitt]-bit+ ,eurus4 ,d ?\1 sweet ,zephyrus1 ris+ f ?y fragrant b$1 m\nt ! we/]n sky & lead on ^? delici\s gales1 ! *>ms ( :i* call =? ! lovely ,flora f h] *amb]1 p]fum$ ) pe>ly dews1 :5 on ! fir/ ( ,june1 h] bir?day1 ! bloom+ maid1 9 loose attire1 g5tly trips x ov] ! v]dant mead1 :]e e fl[] rises to d h] homage1 until ! :ole field becomes enamell$1 & col\rs cont5d ) sweets :i* %all ravi% h] mo/4 ,s *>m+ may %e n[ appe>2 & y1 ! fea!r$ *ori/]s ( nature1 ^: sweete/ notes n ev5 ,h&el c excel1 tune y\r melodi\s ?roats to celebrate h] appe>ance4 ,f love proce$s y\r music1 & to love x returns4 ,awake1 !re=e1 c4 ,if "o 7 =tunate en\gh to possess ! p[] ( description & imag9ation ( a ,field+1 me?9ks ! cr9ol9e w\ld provide a suffici5tly inspir+ !me4 ,x has be5 said t ,milton 0 a man f 8 bir?4 ,! cr9ol9e1 l ,milton1 is an exception to e law ( developm5t4 ,x _h1 l ,milton1 nei!r infancy nor adolesc5ce1 b sprang full arm$1 l ,a!ne f ! bra9 ( ,zeus1 or p]haps1 l ,topsy 9 ,uncle ,tom's ,cab91 x nev] 0 born1 b j gr[$--& x grew--l a mu%room 7:i* inde$ 9 =m x some:at resembles71 9 a night4 ,or1 to adopt yet ano!r comp>ison1 l ! sun1 :i* bur/s 9 ! morn+ sudd5ly 9 its full refulg5ce1 is obscur$ = a "t by cl\ds1 to blaze aga9 9 unabat$ spl5d\r1 & 9 its turn is aga9 obscur$1 b only to reappe> 9 glori\s sunset4 ,! cr9oletta1 :i* foll[$1 may be describ$ z ! twilight or sweet aft]gl[--beautiful1 t5d] z ! blu% on a maid5's *eek1 & almo/ z evanesc5t1 b ) none ( ! glory ( ! prec$+ day4 ,illu/ration3 ,,que5 ,,*>lotte4 ,aft] ,ga9sbor\gh4 ,9 ! *>m+ passage f ,field+ above quot$1 ,love1 x w be se51 figures z ! presid+ _s4 ,?is is peculi>ly appropriate to ! pres5t subject1 =1 be x kn[n1 ,dan ,cupid begat ! cr9ol9e4 ,x is said to h be5 orig9ally inv5t$ = ! purpose ( conceal+ ! illicit am\rs ( a ,pr9cess ( ,spa92 b s+ul>ly en\gh1 & 9 a sort ( contradictory _s1 is fir/ id5tifi$ ) ! augu/ p]son ( ! ,maid5 ,que54 ,! e>li] portraits ( ,elizabe? exhibit h] 9 a dress simil> to t ( h] si/] & pr$ecessor1 & 9 an int]e/+ portrait ( ,ca!r9e ,p>r at ,gl5don ,hall1 ,nor?ampton%ire1 ?is ,que5 appe>s 9 a ri*ly embroid]$ petticoat wid5$ at ! base4 ,a simil> petticoat or kirtle1 wid5$ a little at ! hips1 is %[n 9 ! portrait ( ,m>y1 ,que5 ( ,scots1 ) ,d>nley 7p4 #afi74 ,! hoop$ petticoat or v>d+ale1 h[ev]1 appe>s only 9 ! lat] portraits ( ,elizabe?4 ,9 ! fam\s pr9t by ,william ,rog]s1 ( :i* a reproduction is giv51 %e is figur$ 9 ! great ruff ) :i* %e is mo/ id5tifi$1 ! int]m9able /oma*]1 & ! enorm\s :eel f>?+ale1 )1 z ,walpole obs]ves1 a bu%el ( pe>ls be/rew$ ov] ! entire figure2 %e also we>s a long light mantle edg$ ) lace1 a port5t\s coll>1 also edg$ ) lace1 exp&+ l w+s on ei!r side ( ! head4 ,%e c>ries ! ball & sceptre 9 h] h&s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,que5 ,,elizabe?4 ,f an engrav+ by ,william ,rog]s4 ,! leg5d at ! foot ( ! plate runs z foll[s3-- ,! admir$ ,empresse ?r\gh ! worlde applaud$ ,= supreme virtues r>e/ imitation1 ,^: ,scept]s rule fame's l\d-voyc'd trumpet lawde? ,into ! e>es ( e =raigne nation4 ,cannopey'd "u p[]full angells w+es ,to h] ,immortall praise sweete ,sci5ce s+es4 ,! great :eel f>?+ale 0 worn by ! nobility dur+ ! latt] half ( ! reign ( ,elizabe?1 & dur+ ! :ole ( ! succe$+ reign4 ,! engrav+ by ,r5old ,el/racke ( ,james ,i4 & 8 ,que51 ,anne ( ,d5m>k1 %[s ! latt] 9 a f>?+ale1 :i* 9 size & g5]al /ructure is id5tical ) t worn by ,elizabe?4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 box pleat$ r\nd ! top ( ! drum1 ! f>?+ale be+ divid$ 9 front & discov]+ ! kirtle und]nea?4 ,! foll[+ /ory is told by ,bulw] 9 8 ,p$igree ( ! ,engli% ,gallant3 ,:5 ,sir ,pet] ,wy* 0 s5t ambassador to ! ,gr& ,seignor f ,james ,i41 8 lady accompani$ him to ,con/ant9ople1 & ! ,sultaness hav+ he>d mu* ( h]1 desir$ to see h]2 :]eupon ,lady ,wy*1 att5d$ by h] wait+ wom51 all ( !m dress$ 9 _! great v>d+ales1 :i* 0 ! ,c\rt-dress ( ! ,engli% ladies at t "t1 wait$ ^u h] highness4 ,! ,sultaness receiv$ h] visitor ) great respect1 b1 /ruck ) ! extraord9>y ext5sion ( ! hips ( ! :ole p>ty1 s]i\sly inquir$ if t %ape 0 peculi> to ! natural =mation ( ,engli% wom51 & ,lady ,wy* 0 oblig$ to expla9 ! :ole my/]y ( ! dress1 9 ord] to conv9ce h] t %e & h] companions 7 n really s de=m$ z !y appe>$ to be4 ,illu/ration3 ,,james ,i4 ,,& ,,8 ,,que51 ,,anne ,,( ,,d5m>k4 ,f an engrav+ by ,r4 ,el/racke4 ,9 ! reign ( ,*>les ,i4 ! f>?+ale1 al?\gh /ill worn by ! l[] g5try & citiz5s' wives1 is disc>d$ by ! upp] classes1 & disappe>s entirely2 & x is n until ! latt] "p ( ! reign ( ,que5 ,anne t x rises aga91 l ! ,phnix f its own a%es1 b 9 ano!r =m1 h[ev]1 t ( ! enorm\s hoop1 :i* grew to su* port5t\s proportions dur+ ! reigns ( ,george ,i4 & ,,ii41 ! out/&+ /eel or :alebone f\ndation be+ ma9ly at ! bottom ( ! skirt in/ead ( at ! hips4 ,sir ,rog] de ,cov]ley ?us expresses ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! e>li] hoop$ petticoats & ^? ( ! era ( ! ,spectator3 ,y see1 sir1 my great-great-gr&mo!r has on ! new-fa%ion$ petticoat1 except t ! mod]n is ga!r$ at ! wai/2 my gr&mo!r appe>s z if %e /ood 9 a l>ge drum1 :]eas ! ladies n[ walk z if !y 7 9 a g-c>t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fe/al ,,dress1 ,,otaheite4 ,x is surpris+ to f9d 9 dress1 z 9 ornam5tal design1 ! same ideas1 ! same ornam5tal motifs1 occurr+ to ! p ( c\ntries widely sep>ate4 ,!re is a curi\s dress appropriat$ to ! "y wom5 ( ,otaheite :o are appo9t$ to make pres5ts f p]sons ( rank to ea* o!r2 "o ( ^! 0 deput$ to pres5t clo?s to ,capta9 ,cook on 8 la/ voyage4 ,a repres5tation ( ! dress is giv5 9 ! engrav+1 :i* is f ,cook's ,geography1 #ahja4 ,! proportions ( ! drum exce$ ev5 t ( ,que5 ,elizabe?2 9 g5]al %ape1 h[ev]1 x is simil>4 ,x is decorat$ r\nd ! upp]mo/ edge ) ornam5tal fe/oons ( fea!rs1 c41 & con/itutes ! complete dress ( ! lady1 ) ! exception ( a sort ( *emise :i* appe>s und]nea? ! brea/s1 &1 presumably1 cov]s ! lo9s & a portion ( ! l[] limbs4 ,! hoop petticoat n[ approa*es its highe/ m]idian2 its re-appe>ance 0 duly ann\nc$ by ,addison1 :o1 9 ,no4 #abi ( ! ,spectator1 relates an adv5ture :i* happ5$ 9 a little c\ntry *ur* 9 ,cornwall3 ,z we 7 9 ! mid/ ( s]vice1 a lady1 :o is ! *ief woman ( ! place1 & _h pass$ ! w9t] at ,london ) h] husb&1 ent]$ ! congregation 9 a little head-dress & a hoop$ petticoat4 ,! p1 :o 7 wond]fully />tl$ at su* a sight1 all ( !m rose up4 ,"s />$ at ! prodigi\s bottom1 & "s at ! little top1 ( ?is /range dress4 ,9 ! meantime ! lady ( ! manor fill$ ! area ( ! *ur* & walk$ up to ! pew ) an unspeakable satisfaction1 amid ! :isp]s1 conjectures1 & a/oni%m5ts ( ! :ole congregation4 ,betwe5 #agdj & #agde ! hoops spread out at ! sides ext5sively 9 oblong fa%ion1 resembl+ a donkey c>ry+ its panni]s4 ,inde$1 ! simile ( ! donkey 0 a fav\rite "o ) ! c>icaturi/s4 ,9 #ahfj ,pun* adopts ! idea1 & issues a w>n+ to ladies :o w\ld ride 9 cr9ol9es on donkeys1 & gives a cut ( a lady 9 an enorm\s cr9ol9e rid+ on a donkey1 ) no?+ b ! donkey's h9d legs se5 bel[4 ,illu/ration3 ,,portraits ,,( ,,m>y1 ,,que5 ,,( ,,scots1 ,,& ,,d>nley4 ,f an engrav+ by ,r4 ,el/racke4 ,a poetic description ( ladies' dresses 9 #aggc directs3 ,make y\r petticoats %ort1 t a hoop eight y>ds wide ,may dec5tly %[ h[ y\r g>t]s are ti$4 ,inde$1 ! hoop ( ?is p]iod _h atta9$ to su* enorm\s proportions t1 z ,fairholt obs]ves1 ! figure ( a lady 0 consid]able2 = !y 7 n[ n only ! bett]1 b ! l>g]1 half ( creation1 & half a doz5 m5 might be accommodat$ 9 ! space occupi$ by a s+le lady4#af ,9 a pr9t entitl$ ,! ,review1 ( ! latt] "p ( ! reign ( ,george ,,ii41 ! inconv5i5ces ( ! hoop petticoat are exhibit$ 9 a v>iety ( ways1 & v>i\s me?ods = _! rem$y are sugge/$4 ,"o ( ! mo/ +5i\s is t ( a coa* ) a moveable ro( & a frame ) pulleys to drop ! ladies 9 f ! top1 9 ord] to avoid ! dis>rang+ ( _! hoops :i* w\ld necess>ily att5d _! entrance by ! door4 ,hoop petticoats disappe>$ e>ly 9 ! reign ( ,george ,,iii41 & ! g5ius ( extravagance !n turn$ its att5tion to ! head-dress4 ,illu/ration3 ,,don',t ,,be ,,afraid1 ,,my ,,de>4 ,engrav$ by ,isidore-,/anilas ,helman4 ,9 ! expir+ ye>s ( ! fifties ( ! la/ c5tury ! cr9ol9e prop] appe>$4 ,!re _h be5 h9ts ( x e>li]1 n to say ?reats1 9 ! bell-%ap$ skirts :i* obta9$ 9 ab\t #ahce1 ( :i* ! *>m+ creature 9 ! ,london prom5ade dress 7p4 #ee7 provides an example4 ,! *ief satiri/ ( ! cr9ol9e is ,pun*1 al?\gh1 among/ o!rs1 an amus+ skit on ! difficulties & dang]s ( ! cr9ol9e appe>$ ab\t #ahgj1 ) a numb] ( col\r$ illu/rations by ,quiz1 n[ v r>e4 ,pun* appe>s to h be5 p>ticul>ly impress$ by ! roomy "* ( ! cr9ol9e1 z1 9 an amus+ if some:at lab\r$ skit 9 ! e>ly days ( #ahfj1 he unbosoms himself z foll[s3 ,among ! million objections to ! use ( ! wide petticoats n ! lea/ well-f\nd$ is ! fact t !y are us$ = purposes ( %oplift+4 ,?is has _m times be5 prov$ at ! b> ( ! police c\rts1 & we wond] t m notice has n be5 attract$ to x4 ,= ourselves1 ! fact is s impress$ ^u our m9d1 t :5 we ev] come 9 contact ) a ,cr9ol9e :i* seems m ?an usually wide1 we imm$iately put d[n ! we>] z a pick-pocket1 & prep>e ourselves at once to see h] tak5 up4 ,view+ ,cr9ol9e1 inde$1 z an inc5tive to bad conduct1 we =bid our wives & daught]s to we> x :5 out %opp+1 = fe> t x may tempt !m to commit "s act ( !ft4 ,a wide petticoat is s conv5i5t a hid+-place = /[+ away almo/ any am\nt ( /ol5 goods1 t we _c be surpris$ at f9d+ x s us$1 & = ! m]e sake ( keep+ !m f rogu]y1 ! few] wom5 h x at _! f+]s' ends ! bett]4 ,"s ladies h a monomania = ?iev]y1 & :5 !y g on a day's %opp+ c h>dly keep _! h&s (f :at does n belong to !m4 ,hav+ a commodi\s receptacle 9 rea*1 :]e9 !y may deposit :atev] !y may sack1 !y are naturally tempt$ to indulge 9 _! prop5sity1 by ! *ances be+ less5$ t !y w be f\nd out4 ,illu/ration3 ,,k+ ,,& ,,mrs4 ,,baddeley4 ,z an in/ance ( h[ l>gely ! l>ge petticoats are us$ 9 acts ( petty l>c5y1 we may m5tion a small fact :i* has come )9 our k1 & :i* x may be to ! int]e/ ( %opkeep]s to "k4 ,conceal$ b5ea? ! skirts ( a fa%ionably dress$ female 71 ! o!r day1 discov]$ by a vigilant detective ! foll[+ *oice pro(s ( h] prop5sity to plund]3 viz41 tw5ty-?ree %awls1 elev5 doz5 h&k]*iefs1 sixte5 pairs ( boots 7fifte5 ( !m made up ) ! milit>y heel71 a case ( eau-de-,cologne1 a ditto ( black hair-dye1 ?irty pairs ( /ays1 tw5ty-six *emises1 five doz5 cambric h&k]*iefs1 & elev5 ditto silk1 n9ete5 musl9 coll>s1 & f\r-&-=ty cro*et ones1 a dress+ case1 five hair bru%es 7?ree ( !m made ) tortoise%ell & two ) ivory gilt backs71 a pair ( curl+ irons1 eight bonnets )\t trimm+s & n9e-&-tw5ty ) !m1 a hundr$ rolls ( ribbon1 half a hundr$weight ( wor/$1 t5 doz5 :ite kid gloves & tw5ty doz5 col\r$ ones1 =ty balls ( cotton1 n9e-&-n9ety ske9s ( silk1 a gridiron1 two coal-scuttles1 ?ree packets ( ham s&wi*es1 tw5ty-five m9ce pies1 half a leg ( mutton1 six boxes ( ,fr5* plums1 t5 ditto ( bonbons1 n9e pts de foie gras1 a doz5 cakes ( *ocolate & n9e ( portable h>e s\p1 a w>m+ pan1 five bracelets1 a brace ( l>ge brass birdcages1 sixte5 b[ls ( goldfi%1 half a score ( lapdogs1 f\rte5 doz5 lev] wat*es1 & an eight-day kit*5 clock4 ,aft] ?is discov]y1 :o w v5ture to d5y t ,cr9ol9e ) %oplift]s is comp>able to *>ity1 inasmu* z x may cov] a multitude ( s9s8 ,a curi\s adv]tisem5t 9 ! ,illu/rat$ ,london ,news ( ,octob] #aj1 #ahfc1 ann\nces t--,ond9a1 or wav$ ,jupons1 d away ) ! unsightly results ( ! ord9>y hoops1 & s p]fect are ! wave-l b&s t a lady may asc5d a /eep /air1 lean aga9/ a table1 ?r[ h]self into an arm*air1 pass to a /all 9 ! op]a1 or occupy a f\r? seat 9 a c>riage )\t inconv5i5ce to h]self or to o!rs1 or provok+ rude rem>ks ( ! obs]v]s1 ?us modify+ 9 an important degree all ^? peculi>ities t5d+ to de/roy ! mode/y ( ,engli% wom51 & la/ly1 x all[s ! dress to fall into graceful folds4 ,price #bas4 ,illu/rations free4 ,) all ^! advantages1 :o w\ld n we> a cr9ol9e8 ,9 ! new ye> ( #ahfj ,pun* gives a cut 7,"s good acc\nt at la/7 ( a skat] 9 pot-hat & pegtops1 encircl$ by ! framework ( an enorm\s cr9ol9e1 cutt+ graceful figures ^u ! ice & exclaim+1 ,entirely my own idea1 ,h>ry--ease1 elegance1 & safety comb9$--,i call x ! skat]'s fri5d4 ,"s good acc\nt at la/8 ,unk9d ,mr4 ,pun*6 ,mu/ we1 !n1 measure ! value ( ev]y?+ 9 ?is _w by its b>e utility8 ,! cr9ol9e w endure z a sweet solace to s5ses tir$ by ! ennui ( ?is dull e>?4 ,! memory ( x w outlive ! ages4 ,9 ! e>ly sev5ties we f9d our old fri5d ,pun* aga9 ^u ! w>pa?1 & ! ,v5us ( ,milo dons ! cr9oletta6 ,?is1 h[ev]1 is only a repetition ( 8 satire on ! cr9ol9e 9 8 ,ess5ce ( ,p>liam5t1 ,may1 #ahfj3-- ,"l ,ab]de5's son1 ,"l ,haddock1 or "s su* "n1 made a supremely ridicul\s spee* ^u ! impropriety ( all[+ money to any s*ool ( ,art 9 :i* ! undrap$ %e-model 0 /udi$ f4 ,8 fa!r1 :o 0 call$ ,a!nian ,ab]de51 & has s e>ne/ a love = ,greek ,art t he actually fav\r$ ,russia because %e has a ,greek ,*ur*1 ought to h cur$ 8 ,haddock ( su* nons5se4 ,poor old ,mr4 ,spoon]1 naturally1 took ! same really indelicate view ( ! case4 ,sir ,george ,lewis express$ 8 l(ty contempt = ! ,haddock1 & ,"l ,palm]/on kipp]$ him 9 a spee* full ( good fun4 ,x is impossible t ! same c\ntry :i* conta9s ,macd[ell's ,eve1 & ,bailey's ,eve at ! ,f\nta91 c hold ,haddock & ,spoon]4 ,mr4 ,pun* mu/ av[ t he pref]s keep+ ! div9] images1 & someh[ gett+ rid ( ! co>s] ones4 ,pam want$ to "k :e!r ! latt] w\ld l to /ick cr9ol9e on ! models1 or w\ld be cont5t ) ,african g>b4 ,! o!r ,wisc\nt obs]v$1 ) m tru? ?an polit5ess1 ',nude1 inde$6 ,i knew$ ,addock 0 a ,nass4' ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,cr9oletta ,,disfigurans4 ,,an ,,old ,,p>asite ,,9 ,a ,,new ,,=m4 ,by ,l9ley ,samb\rne 7,pun*74 ,an illu/ration is app5d$ to ! article ( a figure resembl+ a fi% 9 ! act ( adju/+ a cr9ol9e on ! ,v5us de ,m$ici4 ,! cr9ol9e re/s ^u ! %\ld]s ( ! /atue l a huge ext+ui%]4 ,z previ\sly h9t$1 ! cr9oletta 0 only a fa9t e*o ( ! glories ( its e>li] prototype4 ,x 0 a cyl9drical contrivance1 made up ( /eels or :alebones1 ei!r cov]$ ) a s]ies ( fl\nces1 or worn und]nea? ! dress l a big bu/le4 ,9 fact1 x began z a bu/le1 & gradually ext5d$ its proportions1 wagg+ & sway+ f side to side l ! tail ( a dragon1 z ! we>] mov$4 ,"o well rememb]s--%all we1 inde$1 ev] =get8--^! s+ul> contraptions display$ unblu%+ly 9 drap]s' %ops1 & ev5 hang+ 9 bundles at ! doors4 ,hang out our bann]s on ! outw>d walls2 ,! cry is /ill1 ',!y come4' ,,footnotes3 #af ,fairholt1 ,co/ume 9 ,engl&4 ,,vii ,,coll>s ,,& ,,cuffs ,!odorus4 ,h !y n also h\ses to set _! ruffes 91 to trim !m & to trick !m1 z well z to />* !m 98 ,amphilogus4 ,yea1 m>ry h !y1 = ei!r ! same />*+ h\ses d s]ve ! turn1 or else !y h _! o!r *amb]s & secret closets to ! same use1 :]e9 !y tricke up ^! c>t:eeles ( ! divels *>et ( pride1 lead+ ! direct way to ! dungeon ( hell4 ,,/ubbes1 ,anatomy ( ,abuses4 ,,vii ,,coll>s ,,& ,,cuffs ,x is to be und]/ood t ! t]ms coll> & cuff are "h only int5d$ to ref] to ^? ( l951 lace1 or simil> mat]ial1 :i* are m or less sep>ate f ! re/ ( ! co/ume4 ,a coll> is simply a neck-b&1 & may be ( any mat]ial2 9 ! case ( ,gur?1 born ?rall ( ,c$ric ! ,saxon1 x 0 ( iron1 & 0 ! symbol ( 8 s]vitude4 ,! t]m coll> is also appli$ to c]ta9 articles ( jewell]y-- ,! coll> ( "s ord]1 :i* our ,k+ ,ha? newly f\nd$1 all = !e1 my s\l4 ,,t5nyson1 ,la/ ,t\rnam5t4 ,coll>s are ( a comp>atively mod]n orig91 al?\gh "s =m ( cov]+ = ! neck has be5 employ$ f a v e>ly p]iod4 ,! ,romans made use ( *9-clo?s = ! protection ( ! neck & ?roat1 :i* 7 t]m$ focalia4 ,^! 7 worn by public orators1 :o f pr(essional consid]ations 7 fe>ful ( tak+ cold1 & :o1 d\btless1 contribut$ 9 no small degree to r5d] ! fa%ion ( *9-clo?s g5]al4 ,"s1 says a writ] on ,roman antiquities 7! ,rev4 ,fa!r ,adam71 made use ( a h&k]*ief 7sud>ium7 = ?is purpose4 ,?is is probably ! orig9 ( ! cravat1 :i* is 9 _m c\ntries call$ neck-h&k]*ief4 ,illu/ration3 ,,h5rietta1 ,,m>quise ,d',,entragues4 ,engrav$ by ,wi]ix4 ,! ?orax1 ( ott]'s sk91 worn by ,*>lemagne dur+ ! cold] mon?s1 has already be5 ref]r$ to 9 a previ\s *at4 ,! wimple1 also1 :i* 0 a developm5t ( ! ,roman *9-clo?1 & :i* 0 worn = su* an ext5d$ p]iod f ! ,norman ,conque/ onw>ds1 is notic$ "u head-cov]+s4 ,dur+ ! great] "p ( ! p]iod ( ,york & ,lanca/] necks 7 worn b>e1 ! camise appe>+ at ! ,v-%ap$ junction ( ! bodice1 ! neck be+ ornam5t$ ) jewell]y4 ,%irt-b&s 7 orig9ally connect$ ) neck-ruffs1 & ! ornam5t adjo9$ to ! wri/b& ( ! %irt 0 kn[n by ! d5om9ation ( ruffle1 & 0 orig9ally call$ ! h&-ruff4 ,9 ! inv5tory ( app>el belong+ to ,h5ry ,,viii4 occurs ! item1 #d %irts ) b&s ( silv] & ruffles to ! same1 :]e( "o is p]l$ ) gold4 ,! ruff is said to h be5 fir/ inv5t$ 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vi4 by a ,spani% lady ( quality1 to hide a w5 :i* grew ^u h] neck4 ,its fir/ appe>ance 9 ,engl& 0 ab\t ! "t ( ! m>riage ( ,que5 ,m>y ) ,philip ( ,spa91 ^! p]sonages be+ repres5t$ ^u ! ,great ,seal ( ,engl& 9 #aeed ) small ruffs on ! necks & wri/s4 ,! ruff appe>s 9 none ( ! portraits by ,holbe91 ) ! exception ( "o at ,antw]p1 :i* is dat$ #aedc1 ! ye> be=e ! pa9t]'s dea?1 & is1 moreov]1 a d\btful "w4 ,9 _m portraits by ?is ma/]1 h[ev]1 ! lawn or cambric %irt appe>s at ! neck ) ! edges ruffl$1 & (t5 delicately embroid]$4 ,9 ! well-kn[n portrait ( ! ,du*ess ( ,milan belong+ to ! ,duke ( ,norfolk1 & at pres5t 9 ! ,national ,gall]y1 su* a ruffle appe>s at ! neck & also at ! wri/s1 ! edges emphasis$ by a n>r[ embroid]$ bord] 9 black silk4 ,?is black embroid]+ 0 v g5]ally employ$ dur+ ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,x appe>s 9 a numb] ( ,holbe9's portraits1 bo? at ! wri/s & at ! neck1 & is q probably due to ,holbe9's influ5ce4 ,!re c be no reasonable d\bt t ?is great pa9t] influ5c$ ! dress ( 8 "t4 ,! influ5ce ( 8 arti/ic p]sonality w\ld be consid]able1 & x is kn[n t he design$ dresses = ! ladies ( ! c\rt1 sev]al draw+s = :i* are 9 ! ,basle ,museum4 ,9 ! inv5tory ( ! app>el ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 appe>s3 ,"o pay] ( sleves1 pass$ ov] ! arms ) gold & silv]1 quilt$ ) black silk1 & ruffl$ at ! h& ) /rawb]ry leaves & fl[]s ( gold1 embroid]$ ) black silk4 ,/>*+ at ?is p]iod _h n rea*$ ,engl&2 ruffs1 !re=e1 mu/ h be5 an exp5sive luxury1 z ! />*$ l951 import$ f ,fl&]s1 c\ld n be worn aft] be+ wa%$4 ,9 #aefd1 "o ,madame ,d+h51 :o1 z h] "n sugge/s1 hail$ f ,fl&]s1 set up z a cle> />*] 9 ,london1 & appe>s to h made ! trade ( cle> />*+ an extremely lucrative "o4 ,h] t]ms 7 f\r or five p\nds = tea*+ ! mo/ curi\s wives#ag to />*1 & "o p\nd = ! art ( see?+ />*4 ,! curi\s wives subsequ5tly made !mselves ruffs ( lawn2 :]eupon arose ! g5]al sc(f+ by-^w t !y w\ld %ortly make _! ruffs ( spid]'s web4 ,illu/ration3 ,,h5ry ,,iv4 ,,( ,,france4 ,f an engrav+ by ,goltzius4 ,a c]ta9 ,ri*>d ,"y1 describ$ z a ju/ice1 = a long "t held ! monopoly ( ! manufacture ( />* 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,f ! ,elizabe?an ,/ate ,pap]s we le>n t 9 #aehi !re 0 a prosecution aga9/ an infr+] ( ! pat5t1 to wit1 ,*>les ,glead1 a g5tleman ( ,k5t1 :o decl>$ to ! ,que5's mess5g]s t he w\ld make />* 9 ! face ( any pat5t or w>rant yet grant$1 unless set d[n by ,act ( ,p>liam5t4 ,sett+-/icks1 /rutts1 & pok+-/icks 7 ! tools us$ 9 ! process ( />*+2 ! fir/ made ( wood or bone1 & ! latt] ( iron1 :i* 0 heat$ 9 ! fire4 ,x 0 ?is heat$ tool :i* produc$ t beautiful regul>ity *>act]i/ic ( ?is article ( attire4 ,!y be made ( yron or /eele1 & "s ( brass kept z bright z silv]1 yea1 & "s ( silv] itselfe2 & x is well if 9 processe ( "t !y gr[ n to be gold4 ,! fa%ion :]eaft] !y be made1 ,i _c resemble to any?+ s well z to a squirt1 or a squibbe1 :i* little *ildr5 us$1 to squirt out wat] )all2 & :5 !y come to />*+ & sett+ ( _! ruffes1 !n mu/ ?is in/rum5t be heat$ 9 ! fire1 ! bett] to /iff5 ! ruffe 444 & if y w\lde "k ! "n ( ?is goodly toole1 =soo?1 ! devill ha? giv5 x to "n a putt]1 or else a putt+ /icke1 z ,i he>e say 7,/ubbes1 ,anatomy ( ,abuses74 ,^u ! introduction ( ^! tools1 toge!r ) />*1 ruffs rapidly increas$ 9 _! proportions4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,infanta ,,isabella ,,cl>a ,,eug5ia4 ,engrav$ by ,jan ,mull]4 ,!y became1 says ,/[1 intol]ably l>ge1 & 7 kn[n 9 ,london z ! ,fr5* fa%ion1 9 ,p>is z ! ,engli% mon/]4 ,! greate/ gallant 0 he :o possess$ ! longe/ rapi] & ! deepe/ ruff4 ,x became necess>y to apply "o ( ! usual rem$ies aga9/ ^! & o!r extravagances ( dress--a proclamation1 or an ,act ( ,p>liam5t2 9 ?is in/ance a proclamation4 ,citiz5s 7 compell$ to r$uce _! rapi]s to a y>d 9 l5g? & _! ruffs to a nail ( a y>d 9 dep?4 ,! unf9i%$ engrav+ ( ! ,infanta ,isabella ,cl>a ,eug5ia1 ,ar*du*ess ( ,au/ria1#ah w s]ve to give a v good idea ( ! dim5sions & g5]al appe>ance ( ^! articles ( attire4 ,?us fri5d ,philip ,/ubbes3--,!y h n[ newly f\nd out a m mon/r\s k9d ( ruff1 ( twelve1 yea1 sixte5 l5g?s apiece1 set ?ree or f\r times d\ble1 & x is ( "s1 fitly call$1 '?ree /eps & an half to ! gall[s4' ,! divells c>t:eele atta9$ its greate/ circumf]5ce 9 #aehb1 :5 t love ( *ange1 inh]5t 9 ! fem99e brea/1 or possibly ! grave & rev]5d appe>ance ( ! ruff1 occasion$ a revolt among/ ! y\ng] wom51 :o 7 dis9cl9$ to hide ! beauties ( _! swan-l necks & ?roats4 ,! ruff 0 !re=e op5$ 9 front & elevat$ beh9d4 ,?is 0 ! gorget or :isk1 :i* 0 us$ bo? pla9 & lac$4 ,a curi\s adv]tisem5t appe>s 9 ! ,m]curius ,publicus1 ( ,may #h1 #affb3-- ,a cambric :isk1 ) ,fl&]s lace1 ab\t a qu>t] ( a y>d broad1 & a lace turn+ up ab\t an in* broad1 ) a /ock 9 ! neck & /rap hang]s d[n be=e1 0 lo/ betwe5 ,new ,palace & ,:itehall4 ,rew>d1 tw5ty %ill+s4 ,^! :isks appe> to h _h a special proclivity = gett+ lo/4 ,plan* 7,cyclop$ia ( ,co/ume7 gives a simil> adv]tisem5t3-- ',lo/1 a tiffany :isk1 ) a great lace d[n & a little "o up1 l>ge fl[]s1 ) a rail = ! head & peak' 7,! ,newes1 ,june #bj1 #affd74 ,on acc\nt ( ! weight ( ! :isk--x 0 =m$ ( a wire framework cov]$ ) po9t lace--! piccadilly or /iff5$ coll> 0 devis$4 ,hone 9 8 ,ev]yday ,book writes-- ,! picadil 0 ! r\nd hem1 or ! piece set ab\t ! edge or skirt ( a g>m5t1 :e!r at top or bottom2 also a k9d ( /iff coll>1 made 9 fa%ion ( a b&1 t w5t ab\t ! neck & r\nd ab\t ! %\ld]s3 h5ce ! t]m 'wood5 picadilloes' 7mean+ ! pillory7 9 ,hudibras4 ,at ! "t t ruffs & picadils 7 mu* 9 fa%ion1 !re 0 a celebrat$ ord9>y ne> ,/4 ,james's1 call$ ,piccadilly1 because1 z "s say1 x 0 ! outmo/ or skirt h\se1 situate at ! end ( ! t[n2 b x m probably took its "n f "o ,higg9s1 a tailor1 :o made a =tune by picadils1 & built ?is ) a few adjo9+ h\ses4 ,! "n has by a few be5 d]iv$ f a mu* frequ5t$ h\se = ! sale ( ^! articles2 b ?is probably took its rise f ! circum/ance ( ,higg9s hav+ built h\ses !re1 :i*1 h[ev]1 7 n = sell+ ruffs4 ,pic>dil is ! dim9utive ( picca1 a pike or spe> head1 & 0 giv5 to ?is article ( attire f ! resemblance ( its /iff5$ edges to ! po9ts ( spe>s4 ,philips 7,_w ( ,words1 #afic7 def9es pick>dil z ! hem ab\t ! skirt ( a g>m5t--! extremity or utmo/ end ( ev]y?+4 ,:e!r ! coll> gave ! "n to ! di/rict or ! di/rict to ! coll> is a matt] ( "s unc]ta9ty2 probably1 h[ev]1 ! =m]4 ,! ?or\ghf>e :i* we n[ "k z ,piccadilly c]ta9ly did n exi/ at ! "t ! picadil 0 fir/ worn1 & ! di/rict 0 !n ! utmo/ end ( ev]y?+--t is1 beyond ! conf9es ( ! t[n4 ,piccadilly z a place1 or ?or\ghf>e1 is m5tion$ 9 ,! ,rehe>sal1 by ,george ,villi]s1 second ,duke ( ,buck+ham1 produc$ 9 ! w9t] ( #afga3-- ,8 s]vants he into ! c\ntry s5t1 ,& he himself to ,piccadill w5t4 ,a pickadil is m5tion$ 9 ! old com$y ( ,nor?w>d ,ho z "p ( a woman's dress4 ,on ! visit ( ,james ,i4 to ,cambridge 9 #afae1 ! ,vice-,*ancellor ( ! ,univ]sity ?\ght fit to issue an ord] prohibit+ ! fe>ful enormity & excess ( app>el se5 9 all degrees1 z1 namely1 /range piccadilloes1 va/ b&s1 huge cuffs1 %oe-roses1 tufts1 locks & tops ( hair1 unbeseem+ t mode/y & c>riage ( /ud5ts 9 s r5[n$ a univ]sity4 ,! ,*ur* 0 /ill m fi]ce 9 its d5unciation ( ^! articles ( attire4 ,hall1 ,bi%op ( ,exet]1 9 a s]mon1 aft] hav+ sev]ely c5sur$ ruffs1 f>?+ales1 fea!rs1 & pa9t1 concludes ) ^! words1 :i* m ?an equal any?+ 9 ,/ubbes3 ,he> ?is1 ye pop9jays ( our "t3 he> ?is1 ye pla/]-fac$ ,jezabels3 ,god w "o day wa% !m ) fire & ) brim/one4 ,illu/ration3 ,,son ,,( ,,! ,,pa9t] ,,dirck ,,de ,,vries4 ,engrav$ by ,goltzius4 ,!re appe>s to be consid]able contradiction ( t]ms1 z appli$ to ! diff]5t coll>s1 bo? ) ! writ]s ( ! "t & ) subsequ5t writ]s4 ,b>nabe ,ri*1 9 8 ,hone/y ( ! ,age1 says3 ,! body is /ill pamp]$ up 9 ! v dropsy ( excess4444 ,he t "s =ty ye>s si!nce %\ld h ask$ aft] a pickadilly1 ,i wond] :o %\ld h und]/ood him or c\ld h told :at a pickadilly _h be51 ei!r fi% or fle%4 ,!re 01 h[ev]1 ! small ruff1 su* z is se5 9 ! portraits ( ,sir ,?omas ,gre%am & ,philip ,,ii4 ( ,spa9 7pp4 #aba-abc74 ,!re 0 ! l>ge =mal ruff :i* appe>s 9 ! portrait ( ,"l ,burleigh 7p4 #ic71 & ! /ill l>g] ruff ( ! ,infanta ,isabella ,cl>a ,eug5ia 7p4 #ahg74 ,!re 0 ! less =mal ruff :i* fell ^u ! %\ld]s1 :i* is se5 9 _m portraits by ,franz ,hals4 ,!re 0 ! high /&+ po9t$ coll>1 su* z appe>s 9 ,william ,rog]s's pr9t ( ,que5 ,elizabe?4 ,!re 0 a pla9 high-/&+ coll> )\t lace1 :i* w5t r\nd ! back ( ! head4 ,!re 0 ! pla9 coll> ( ! ,cromwellians1 :i* cov]$ ! %\ld]s1 & !re 0 also ! ri* lace coll> ( ! latt] "p ( ! reign ( ,*>les ,i4 ,! plaits ( ! ruff 7 occasionally p9n$1 ! r[s be+ sometimes two & ?ree deep4 ,9 ! ,antiqu>y1 a com$y by ,%ak]ley ,m>mion1 #afda1 quot$ by ,/rutt1 a lov] says to 8 mi/ress3 ,d y n rememb] :at taskes y 7 wont to put ^u me :5 ,i be/[$ y g[ns & petticoats3 & y 9 return gave me bracelets & %oe-ties8 ,h[ y fool'd me1 & set me sometimes to p9 pleats 9 y\r ruff two h\rs toge!r8 ,illu/ration3 ,,*>les ,i4 7,,9 ,,?ree ,,views74 ,aft] ,v&yck4 ,engrav$ by ,w4 ,%>p4 ,9 an old play call$ ,l+ua2 or1 ! ,combat ( ! ,tongue & ! ,five ,s5ses = ,sup]iority1 #afjg1 "o ( ! *>act]s rem>ks3-- ,x is five h\rs ago s9ce ,i set a doz5 maids to attire a boy l a nice g5tlewoman2 b !re is su* do+ ) _! look+-glasses2 p9n+1 unp9n+1 sett+1 unsett+1 =m+s & con=m+s2 pa9t+ ( blue ve9s1 & rosy *eeks2 su* a /ir ) combs1 cascanets1 purls1 falls1 squ>es1 busks1 bodices1 sc>fs1 necklaces1 c>konels1 rabatoes1 bord]s1 tires1 fans1 palisadoes1 puffs1 ruffs1 cuffs1 muffs1 pu/les1 fusles1 p>tlets1 frislets1 b&lets1 fillets1 corslets1 p5dulets1 amulets1 annulets1 bracelets1 & s _m lets t ! poor lady ( ! toilet is sc>ce dress$ to ! girdle4 ,& n[ !re is su* call+ = f>d+ales1 kirtles1 busk-po9ts1 %oe-ties & ! l1 t sev5 p$l>s' %ops1 nay1 all ,/\rbridge fair1 w sc>cely furni%4 ,a %ip is soon] rigg$ by f> ?an a nice g5tlewoman made ready4 ,t[>ds ! latt] "p ( ! reign ( ,*>les ,i4 bo? ruff & :isk give place to ! fall+ b&1 :i* 0 worn bo? pla9 & lac$4 ,x _h1 inde$1 appe>$ e>li]1 ev5 9 ! latt] ye>s ( ,elizabe?1 b 0 n 9 g5]al use until ! "t ( ,*>les4 ,! tr\ble occasion$ by ! ruff & :isk appe>s to h be5 a factor ( _! d[nfall4 ,a "* 9 ! ,malecont5t1 #afjd1 exclaims3 ,!re is su* a deal ( p9n+ ^! ruffles :5 a f9e cleane fall is wor? all4 ,! cravat1 or neckclo?1 :i* succe$$ ! ruff & b&1 did n come into g5]al use until ! latt] "p ( ! reign ( ! ,m]ry ,mon>*2 inde$1 "s simil> =m ( neck cov]+ became a necessity1 on acc\nt ( ! mon/r\s size ( ! p]iwigs4 ,x =m$ a l>ge b[ at ! *91 ) ! ends ri*ly lac$4 ,!re 0 a v>iety ( ! neckclo? :i* 0 twi/$ l a corkscrew1 ! ends be+ drawn ?r\gh a r+4 ,?is 0 call$ a ,/e9kirk1 f ! circum/ance ( ! ,fr5* (fic]s at ! battle ( t "n 9 #afib1 :o c\ld n f9d "t to arrange _! cravats1 & adopt$ ! readi] means ( twi/+ !m 9 a knot4 ,! lac$ ends ( ! cravat aft]w>ds increas$ 9 size1 & 7 drawn ?r\gh ! button-hole ( ! wai/coat4 ,"o ( ! knots ( 8 tye hang+ d[n 8 left %\ld]1 & 8 fr+$ cravat nicely twi/$ d[n 8 brea/1 & ?ru/ ?r\gh 8 gold button-hole1 :i* look$ exactly l my little ,b>bet's head 9 8 gold coll> 7,david ,g>rick1 ,bon ,ton2 or1 ,high ,life ,bel[ ,/airs1 #agge74 ,f a s+ul> little pocket-manual ^u ! art ( ty+ ! cravat1 by ,h4 ,le ,blanc1 ,esq41 publi%$ 9 #ahbh1 x w\ld appe> t !re are no less ?an two-&-?irty diff]5t /yles ( ty+ ! cravat4 ,^! are demon/rat$ 9 sixte5 lessons1 ) illu/rations1 toge!r ) portrait ( ! au?or1 figur$1 z a matt] ( c\rse1 9 an irreproa*able cravat4 ,:5 a man ( rank makes 8 entre into a circle di/+ui%$ = ta/e & elegance1 & ! usual complim5ts h pass$ on bo? sides1 he w discov] t 8 coat w attract only a slight degree ( att5tion1 b t ! mo/ critical & scrut9is+ exam9ation w be made on ! set ( 8 ,cravat4 ,%\ld ?is un=tunately n be correctly & elegantly put on--no fur!r notice w be tak5 ( him2 :e!r 8 coat be ( ! reign+ fa%ion or n w be unnotic$ by ! assembly--all eyes w be occupi$ 9 exam9+ ! folds ( ! fatal ,cravat4 ,8 reception w 9 ! future be cold1 & no "o w move on 8 entrance2 b if 8 ,cravat is savamm5t & elegantly =m$--al?\gh 8 coat may n be ( ! la/ cut--e "o w rise to receive him ) ! mo/ di/+ui%$ m>ks ( respect1 w *e]fully resign _! seats to him1 & ! delight$ eyes ( all w be fix$ on t "p ( 8 p]son :i* sep>ates ! %\ld]s f ! *9--let him speak d[n-"r nons5se he w be applaud$ to ! skies2 x w be said--',?is man has critically & deeply /udi$ ! ?irty-two lessons on ! ,art ( ,ty+ ! ,cravat4' ,b aga9 rev]se ! picture--x w be f\nd t ! un=tunate individual :o is n aw>e ( ! exi/5ce ( ?is ju/ly celebrat$ "w--h[ev] well in=m$ he may be on o!r subjects--w be consid]$ z an ignorant pret5d]1 & w be compell$ to suff] ! imp]t95ce ( ! fop1 :o w treat him ) disda91 m]ely because 8 ,cravat is n correctly dispos$--he w moreov] be oblig$ to he> 9 sil5ce1 & to approve 7"u pa9 ( be+ consid]$ unacqua9t$ ) ! common rules ( polit5ess7 all ! rem>ks :i* he w ?us subject himself to--occasionally reliev$ by he>+ a :isp] (1 ',he _c ev5 put on a ,cravat prop]ly4' ,! read] w n expect1 possibly w exp]i5ce little desire1 to be tak5 ?r\gh ! :ole ( ! two-&-?irty lessons 9 ! art ( ty+ ! cravat2 a s+le illu/ration w probably suffice4 ,x %all be1 h[ev]1 ! sov]eign ( cravat ties1 ! ',nud ,gordi51' ! orig9 ( :i* is lo/ 9 ! obscurity ( antiquity4 ,! discov]y ( ! "n ( ! brilliant g5ius to :om ! hon\r ( ?is inv5tion is due has1 app>5tly1 defi$ ! mo/ labori\s rese>*es on ! "p ( ! au?or4 ,he c only tell u 7:at he believes is g5]ally kn[n7 t ,alex&] ! ,great1 al?\gh he c\ld conqu] a :ole _w1 &1 l a y\?ful "* 9 ! works ( ! immortal ,dick5s1 sigh = m 7s\p1 h[ev]1 9 ! case ( ! juv5ile71 0 /ill unable to compreh5d ! !ory ( its con/ruction1 & adopt$ ! %ort] & easi] me?od ( cutt+ x ) 8 sword4 ,att5tion6 ,cravats :5 s5t f ! laundress %\ld und]go a c>eful exam9ation z to ! wa%+1 iron+1 & fold+1 z ! set ( ! cravat & neatness ( ! tie entirely dep5ds ^u ?is4 ,:e!r x be pla9 or col\r$ is app>5tly ( little mom5t1 & does n 9 ! lea/ affect its =mation1 b a /\t "o is recomm5d$ z (f]+ m facilities to ! d>+ f+]s ( ! tyro :o w\ld accompli% ?is *ef-d'uvre4 ,x n[ becomes necess>y to m$itate deeply & s]i\sly ^u ! five foll[+ directions3-- #a4 ,hav+ c>efully *os5 ! cravat1 x mu/ be plac$ on ! neck1 ! ends left hang+ 7fir/ "t74 #b4 ,take po9t ,k1 pass x on ! inside ( po9t ,z1 & raise x 7second "t74 #c4 ,l[] po9t ,k on ! tie1 n[ half =m$ ,o 7?ird "t74 #d4 ,!n1 )\t leav+ po9t ,k1 b5d x inside & draw x betwe5 ! po9t ,z1 :i* y repass to ! left ,y2 9 ! tie n[ =m$1 ,y ,o1 ?us accompli%+ ! =mation ( ! knot4 #e4 ,& la/4 ,hav+ accompli%$ ! knot1 flatt5$ x ) ?umb & =e-f+]1 or ) ! iron 7a small iron is recomm5d$1 ) a h&le1 made expressly = ! purpose1 & mod]ately w>m71 y l[] ! po9ts ,k ,z1 cross !m1 place a p9 at ! po9t ( junction ,h1 at once solv+ ! problem :i* defi$ ! greate/ ( ! _w's conqu]ors4 ,! slighte/ error 9 ! fir/ fold ( ?is tie w r5d] all succe$+ ef=ts1 ) ! same h&k]*ief1 entirely useless--we h said x4#ai ,al?\gh1 z previ\sly intimat$1 x is n propos$ to w&] ?r\gh ! labyr9? ( ! :ole ( ! two-&-?irty lessons1 two o!rs may ) advantage be ref]r$ to4 ,our au?or1 ?\gh some:at faceti\s1 is di/9ctly ent]ta9+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,diagrams ,,illu/rat+ ,,! ,,ty+ ,,( ,,! ,n,,ud ,,gordi54 ,a4 ,! ,cravat fold$4 ,b4 ,! ,cravat la ,byron4 ,s4 ,! ,cravat ,s5tim5tale4 ,! ,cravat ,s5tim5tale4 ,?is1 z its "n implies1 %\ld only be adopt$ by ^? ^: physiognomy inspires ! t5d] passion4 ,x may be worn f ! age ( sev5te5 to tw5ty-sev52 aft] t age x _c1 ) propriety1 be patronis$ ev5 by ! mo/ agreeable4 ,y1 !n1 :om ,nature has n gift$ ) eyes ( fire--) complexions rivall+ ! rose & lily2 y1 to :om %e has d5i$ pe>ly tee? & coral lips--a gift :i*1 9 our op9ion1 w\ld be some:at inconv5i5t2 y1 9 fact1 ^: faces d n possess t sympa!tic *>m :i*1 9 a mom5t--at a glance--spreads confusion o'er ! s5ses1 c41 pause be=e adopt+ ! cravat s5tim5tale--avoid x1 9 fact2 leave x to m highly fav\r$ mortals4 ,! ,cravat la ,byron4 ,?is mu/ be worn by none b ^? :o w\ld m\nt ! topmo/ slopes ( ,p>nassus1 & dr9k deeply ( ! ,ca/alian spr+4#bj ,our au?or does n1 inde$1 say s1 b ! fact is suffici5tly evid5t4 ,x is univ]sally all[$ t ! lea/ con/ra9t on ! body has a correspond+ effect on ! m9d2 a tight cravat1 !re=e1 w cramp ! imag9ation &1 z x 71 suffocate ! ?\ghts4 ,?is is ! reason :y ,"l ,byron submitt$ to ! inconv5i5ces ( a cravat1 only :5 accommodat+ himself to ! bi5sances ( society1 & expla9s ! fact t :5ev] he is pa9t$ 9 ! ard\r ( composition 8 neck is always free f ! trammels ( ! neckclo?4 ,black silk cravats1 at ! "t ( our au?or's writ+ 7#ahbh71 7 g5]ally worn1 & col\r$ silk h&k]*iefs occasionally patronis$4 ,x appe>s t ,napoleon inv>iably wore a black silk cravat1 b at ,wat]loo x 0 obs]v$ t1 contr>y to 8 usual cu/om1 he wore a :ite neck]*ief ) a fl[+ b[1 al?\gh ! day previ\s he appe>$ 9 8 black cravat4 ,! sup]/iti\sly incl9$ w note ?is fact2 x is1 h[ev]1 extremely unlikely t ! *ange influ5c$ 9 ! slighte/ degree ! result ( ! battle4 ,9 ! late ?irties & e>ly =ties ,dame ,fa%ion turn$ h] att5tion 9 ! direction ( embroid]$ musl94 ,delicate floral patt]ns1 (t5 display+ consid]able ta/e 9 design & a high degree ( te*nical skill1 7 wr\ght ^u coll>ettes1 cuffs1 *emisettes1 c42 x 0 *iefly produc$ 9 ! nor? ( ,irel&1 & an ext5sive trade arose1 f9d+ employm5t = l>ge numb]s ( wom5 & girls 9 ! c\nties ( ,donegal1 ,tyrone1 & ,d[n4 ,! delicacy ( ! mat]ial & ! abs5ce ( col\r1 l5t itself ins5sibly to a naturali/ic treatm5t4 ,z is usual ) ! caprices ( fa%ion1 ! art only la/$ = a comp>atively brief p]iod4 ,x /ill survives1 h[ev]1 9 ! =m ( embroid]$ h&k]*iefs1 = :i* !re is ev5 n[ a dem&4 ,,footnotes3 #ag ,/[4 #ah ,?is lady1 9 #afja1 regi/]$ a v[ n to *ange h] l95 until ! t[n ( ,o/5d 0 tak54 ,! siege la/$ ?ree ye>s & ?ree mon?s1 by :i* "t h] "u-clo?+ _h atta9$ a col\r :i* is p]haps easi] to imag9e ?an to describe4 ,x provid$ a "n = a /uff1 ,c\leur ,isabella1 :i* 0 fa%ionable 9 ,france = ov] a c5tury4 #ai ,:at ,i h said1 ,i h said 7! ,"r ,hon4 ,joseph ,*amb]la974 #bj ,! ,ca/alian spr+ is at ! foot ( ! m\nta91 b x %\ld h be5 at ! top1 :]e ! tir$ & ?ir/y travell] w\ld be mo/ likely to ne$ x4 ,besides1 x is n to be expect$ t we c\ld rev]se ! ord] ( ! p>agraph--we h said x4 ,,viii ,,hats1 ,,caps1 ,,& ,,bonnets ',9 t direction1' ! ,cat said1 wav+ 8 "r paw r\nd1 'lives a ,hatt]2 & 9 t direction1' wav+ ! o!r paw1 'lives a ,m>* ,h>e4 ,visit ei!r y l2 !y're bo? mad4' ,alice's ,adv5tures 9 ,wond]l&4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fools ,,9 ,a ,,morris ,,dance4 ,bodleian ,,ms4 7free r5d]+74 ,,viii ,,hats1 ,,caps1 ,,& ,,bonnets ,mad z a hatt]8 ,h[ comes an hone/ craft to be ?us malign$8 ,hatt]s 7 nev] mad--t is1 n m s ?an ! re/ ( u--until !y adopt$ ! pot ( ! *imney z a model4#ba ,nature has provid$ 9 ! hair a natural cov]+ = ! head4 ,hats are n really a necessity4 ,dr4 ,jaeg] 7,heal? ,culture7 discusses ! probable reasons = ! great] preval5ce ( baldness among m5 ?an among wom54 ,:ile reject+ ! !ory t ! competition ( ! be>d is prec>i\s to ! hair ( ! head1 ab/ract+ f ! latt] its due n\ri%m5t1 & po9t+ out t ! long be>ds & luxuriant heads ( hair ( our ance/ors refute ?is !ory t ! m /r5u\s head-"w :i* falls to ! %>e ( ! male sex is responsible = ! loss ( hair2 t ! unnatural cu/om ( cutt+ m5's hair1 fir/ adopt$ :5 nature 0 ab&on$ 9 fav\r ( ! fa%ions ( civilisation1 is to blame = x2 t dr9k1 dissolute habits1 or h]$ity is ! cause--he f9ds t a f> m probable cause is ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! male & female head-cov]+1 :i* latt] is1 z a rule1 light]1 m airy1 & m por\s ?an ! usually almo/ wat]pro( & exce$+ly absurd male head-cov]+s1 su* z ! /iff felt hats1 & high hats1 ) ! /rip ( lea!r :i* encircles ! =ehead & effectually reta9s ! p]spiration4 ,! be/ head-cov]+ w\ld c]ta9ly be--none at all4 ,b usage1 & 9 _m cases wea!r conditions1 r5d] ?is impracticable4444 ,n only are ! h>d hats1 n[ 9 su* g5]al use1 injuri\s on acc\nt ( ! pores ( ! mat]ial be+ clos$1 imp$+ ! passage ( ! exhalation f ! head2 b ! %ellac us$ 9 /iff5+ !m has an injuri\s effect1 f :i* ! *]ry gum us$ 9 ! case ( ! s(t hats is comp>atively free4 ,he adds3 ,( c\rse1 s(t hats _c be worn 9 all cases--on c]emonial occasions ! h>d hat may be *os52 b ord9>ily ! hygi5ically sup]ior s(t hat %\ld be worn4 ,:y1 h[ev]1 on occasions ( c]emony8 ,0 c]emonial non-exi/5t be=e ! adv5t ( ! n9ete5? c5tury8 ,x w\ld r appe> t if ! n9ete5? c5tury is conspicu\s = any?+ x is = its abs5ce ( c]emonial4 ,!re is absolutely no reason :y a hat ( a p>ticul> d5sity1 or ev5 ( a p>ticul> %ape1 %\ld be necess>y to occasions ( high c]emonial4 ,moreov]1 9 ?is connection x may be v p]t95tly ask$1 ,is arti/ic inv5tion s utt]ly dead t x _c devise a head-ge> :i* %all fit 9 ) its surr\nd+s on su* occasions z call = m dignity & impressiv5ess 9 ! matt] ( co/ume8 ,x is1 h[ev]1 an incontrov]tible fact1 z a well-kn[n pres5t-day writ] has po9t$ out1 t revolutions are practicable 9 ev]y?+--9 mann]s1 morals1 gov]nm5t1 ev5 religion--soon] ?an 9 clo!s2 & t sumptu>y laws are ! only laws t h always fail$ ( be+ obey$4 ,x is univ]sally admitt$ t mod]n dress is intol]ably ugly2 t x fails1 n only ^u its arti/ic side1 b also ^u ! score ( utility2 yet e sugge/ion = its improvem5t is always met by a flat non possumus4 ,illu/ration3 ,,mrs4 ,,anne ,,w>r54 ,aft] ,romney4 ,"s =m ( hood 01 d\btless1 ! e>lie/ cov]+ = ! head1 ei!r z a sep>ately made-up article1 or1 z 9 ! case ( ! ,greeks & ,romans1 =m$ by ! draw+ ( ! pallium or toga ov] ! head to s]ve z protection dur+ inclem5t wea!r4 ,! ,romans _h a hood$ cloak 7cucullus7 :i* 0 worn by ! common] p1 & :i*1 9 "s =m or ano!r1 has be5 9 use dur+ all subsequ5t p]iods4 ,x is1 9 fact1 g5]ally worn at ! pres5t day 9 mo/ p>ts ( ! ,cont95t ( ,europe1 & =ms an extremely reasonable & conv5i5t article ( attire4 ,! hood =m$ ! pr9cipal cov]+ = ! head ( bo? sexes dur+ ! twelf?1 ?irte5?1 & "p ( ! f\rte5? c5turies4 ,! hood 7*ap]on7 0 a sep>ate article ( dress z di/9ct f ! c[l 7capu*on71 :i* 0 atta*$ to & =m$ "p ( ! cloak or o!r article ( dress1 al?\gh ! two t]ms are indiscrim9ately us$ by ! e>li] writ]s4 ,! hood assum$1 9 ! fir/ in/ance1 m or less ! =m ( ! ,phrygian cap4 ,! tippet1 or tail1 0 aft]w>ds develop$ to a consid]able l5g?1 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury rea*+ almo/ to ! gr\nd4 ,dante is usually repres5t$ 9 su* a hood1 ) long tippet1 & 9 ! portrait ( ,cimabue by ,simon ,memmi1 c4 #acjj1 ! pa9t] appe>s we>+ a hood ) a tippet rea*+ a little bel[ ! middle4 ,! cap or hood worn by fools 0 simply ! hood ( ! fa%ion ( ! p>ticul> p]iod1 ) ! addition ( ! cock's comb1 ! pair ( ass's e>s & ! bells1 occasionally worn all toge!r1 & (t5 p>ti-col\r$4 ,9 ! w>drobe acc\nts ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 occurs--,item1 = mak+ a d\blet ( wor/$1 l9$ ) canvass & cotton1 = ,william ,som'ar1 our fool2 item1 = mak+ ( a coat & cap ( gre5 clo? fr+$ ) r$ crule & l9$ ) frize = our said fool4 ,! m5's turban$ head-dress ( ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 & lat] is suffici5tly rem>kable to w>rant a description4 ,x 0 a long clo?1 w\nd r\nd & r\nd ! head--! edges cut1 clipp$ & jagg$ 9 v>i\s ways--"o end ( :i* ei!r /ood up on ! top ( ! head or 0 all[$ to fall ov] ! side ( ! turban1 ! o!r end hang+ d[n 9 front ( ! body1 long] or %ort] accord+ to ! fancy or caprice ( ! we>]1 ! :ole pres5t+ a v fanta/ic appe>ance1 occasionally1 h[ev]1 n ungraceful4 ,illu/ration3 ,,hunt+ ,,hat4 ,orcagna1 ,campo ,santa1 ,pisa4 ,! beg9n+ ( ?is head-dress 0 simply a diff]5t way ( we>+ ! hood1 z ,mr4 ,plan* has %[n by means ( two diagrams 9 8 ,encylop$ia ( ,co/ume4 ,x occurr$ to "s +5i\s s\l to ins]t 8 head 9 ! oval op5+ 9 ! hood made = ! face1 to ga!r up 9 ! =m ( a fan ! portion :i* cov]$ ! %\ld]s1 & to b9d x 9 position by w9d+ ! long tippet r\nd ! head & tuck+ 9 ! end ( x4 ,lat]1 no d\bt1 ! head-dress 0 =mally made up by ! hatt] or tailor1 z ! case may be1 & assum$ a m complex "*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,hunt+ ,,hat4 ,orcagna1 ,campo ,santa1 ,pisa4 ,! ,greeks1 :5 travell+1 protect$ _! heads f ! heat or ! wet by means ( a flat broad-brimm$ hat1 ti$ und]nea? ! *91 & all[$ to hang on ! back :5 n requir$ on ! head4 ,?is fa%ion or device 0 cont9u$ dur+ ! ,middle ,ages1 & ! hat 0 (t5 worn ov] ! hood 7al?\gh ?is w\ld seem a sup]fluity71 ! /r+s 7 secur$ at ! brea/ by means ( a moveable r+1 :i*1 by be+ mov$ up und]nea? ! *91 kept ! hat 9 its place on ! head4 ,su* a hat 0 figur$ on ! wall ( ! old ,palace at ,we/m9/]1 & has be5 publi%$ 9 ! ,vetu/a ,monum5ta ( ! ,society ( ,antiqu>ies4 ,dur+ ! great] "p ( ! ,norman & ,plantag5et p]iod ! wimple or neck-clo? 0 common4 ,x 0 a developm5t ( ! ,anglo-,saxon veil or head-clo? 7c\vre-*ef71 & an e*o ( ! mail$ coif ( ! p]iod4 ,x is ?us ref]r$ to by ,john de ,meun3 ,p> ,dieu6 ,i h (t5 ?\ght 9 my he>t1 :5 ,i h se5 a lady s closely ti$ up1 t h] neck-clo? 0 nail$ to h] *91 or t %e _h ! p9s hook$ into h] fle%4 ,su* a wimple is figur$ f ,orcagna 7,campo ,santo1 ,pisa7 on ! opposite page4 ,! gold5 net-caul 7cre/9e1 creton1 cresp9e1 cresp9ette7 appe>$ dur+ ! reigns ( ,h5ry ,,iii4 & ,edw>d ,i41 worn ei!r ) or )\t ! wimple & veil1 & la/$1 9 its v>y+ =ms1 well into ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,x ei!r enclos$ ! hair z )9 a bag or p\*1 or assum$ ! =m ( a nett$ cap1 z 9 ! s-call$ ,beatrice d',e/e1 attribut$ to ,leon>do da ,v9ci 9 ! ,br]a at ,milan2 or ! net-bag above allud$ to 0 elongat$ s z to =m a long pigtail1 ti$ at int]vals1 (t5 ext5d+ almo/ to ! feet1 z 9 ! m>riage sc5e 9 ! fresco by ,p9turic*io 9 ! ,piccolom9i ,libr>y at ,si5a4 ,x 0 (t5 ri*ly ornam5t$ ) jewels-- ,_! heads 7 dight well )al1 ,ev]i* _h on a jolyf coronal ,) sixty gems & mo4 ,illu/ration3 ,,figure ,,) ,,long ,,net-,,caul4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 ref]s to ! *aplet or g>l& commonly worn by ! ladies ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,!nne 0 ,i w> ( a wommon wond]li*e clo!d1 ,purfylet ) pelure ! ric*e/ uppon eor!1 ,i-cr\n$ ) a cor\ne1 ! ,k+ ha? no bettre2 ,alle hir fyve fyngres weore frettet ) rynges1 ,( ! preci\se/ p]re1 t pr9ce w]$ ev]e2 ,9 ,r$ ,sc>let h] ,rod i-rybaunt ) gold2 ,!r nis no ,qwe5e qweyntore1 t quik is alyve4 ,,pi]s ,,pl[man1 ,description ( ,me$ 7,brib]y74 ,illu/ration3 ,f ,fra ,angelico1 ,flor5ce4 ,! hair 0 n[ w\nd up on ei!r side ( ! head1 ! coils ei!r worn )\t any cov]+ or enclos$ )9 a caul2 ! veil or curta9 be+ ext5d$ at ! sides4 ,?is m>k$ ! comm5cem5t ( ^? horn$ head-dresses :i* 7 spe$ily develop$ to su* an extravagant degree1 & s excit$ ! wra? ( ! satiri/s ( ! "t4 ,john de ,meun1 :o complet$ ,! ,romaunt ( ! ,rose1 obs]ves t ^! horns appe> to be design$ to w\nd ! m51 & adds3 ,i "k n :e!r !y call gibbets or corbels t :i* su/a9s _! horns1 :i* !y consid] s f9e1 b ,i v5ture to say t ,/4 ,elizabe? is n 9 ,p>adise = hav+ c>ri$ su* baubles4 ,illu/ration3 ,f ,fra ,angelico1 ,flor5ce4 ,9 a volume entitl$ ,j\gleurs et ,tr\vres1 by ,m4 ,jub9al1 is a satire on horn$ head-dresses1 "u ! title ( ,des ,cornetes1 f a ,,ms4 9 ! ,biblio?que ,royale at ,p>is1 ( ! beg9n+ ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,9 ?is poem x appe>s t ! ,bi%op ( ,p>is _h prea*$ a s]mon direct$ aga9/ extravagance 9 wom5's dress1 _! horns & ! b>5ess ( _! necks4 ,if we d n get out ( ! way ( ! wom5 we %all be kill$2 = !y c>ry horns ) :i* to kill m54 ,?is same s]mon is qua9tly ref]r$ to by ! ,knight ( la ,t\r-,l&ry 9 8 advice to 8 daught]s3 ,he said t ! wom5 t 7 s horn$ 7 ly*e to be horn$ snails & h]tis & unicornes4 ,i d\te t ! develle sitte n betw5e h] hornes1 & t he make hem b[e d\n ! h$e = f]de ( ! holy wat]4 ,also ! good knight told h[ !re 0 onis a g5tille woman t come to a fe/ s /raungely atyr$ & que9tly arrai$ to haue ! lokes ( ! pepille1 t all t sawe h] come ranne t[>des h] to wond] lik z on a wilde bea/e1 = %e 0 atyr$ ) highe longe pynnes lyke a jebet1 & s %e 0 scorn$ ( alle ! company1 & saide %e b>e a gal\s on h] h$e4#bb ,! prea*+ 9 ! ,middle ,ages appe>s to h be5 rem>kably effective4 ,mon/relet1 9 8 ,*ronicles1 relates a /ory ( "o ,?omas ,conecte1 a prea*+ fri>1 :o attack$ ! /eeple head-dresses ) great zeal & resolution4 ,8 eloqu5ce 0 su* t ! wom5 flung d[n _! head-dresses 9 ! middle ( 8 s]mon & made a bonfire ( !m )9 sight ( ! pulpit4 ,he frequ5tly _h an audi5ce ( #bj1jjj p1 ! m5 rang+ !mselves on "o side ( ! pulpit & ! wom5 on ! o!r1 ! latt] appe>+ l a =e/ ( c$>s ) _! heads rea*+ to ! cl\ds4 ,! impression he creat$ 01 h[ev]1 n a la/+ "o2 z soon z 8 back 0 turn$ ! horns aga9 began to gr[3 ,! wom5 t1 l snails 9 a fright1 _h drawn 9 _! horns1 %ot !m out aga9 z soon z ! dang] 0 ov]4 ,! horn-%ap$ head-dress appe>s 9 no pictorial docum5ts or monum5ts old] ?an ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,iv4 ,! he>t-%ap$ head-dress began ) a flat pad on ! top ( ! head1 ) ! sides slightly turn$ up1 enclos$ 9 a silk5 net1 :i* 0 (t5 jewell$1 ! hair be+ worn 9 coils above ! e>s1 at ! back1 or hang+ d[n1 z ! case may be4 ,! sides 7 !n turn$ up %>ply 9 ! %ape ( a ,v1 & ! head-dress height5$4 ,?is 0 develop$ 9 a v>iety ( ways4 ,! /eeple head-dress v>i$ 9 its height--f a matt] ( #ah in*es or less1 to #c feet--9 its ornam5tation & col\r2 x 0 ei!r pla91 or decorat$ ) simple b&s or ribbons w\nd crosswise2 x v>i$1 h[ev]1 *iefly 9 ! veil+4 ,!re 0 a veil ?r[n ov] ! :ole1 & fall+ ov] ! sides ( ! face1 or1 ! veil 0 atta*$ to ! summit ( ! /eeple & all[$ ei!r to hang loose1 or 0 loop$ at "s po9t at ! back4 ,!re 0 also a veil :i* 0 atta*$ to ! l[] bord] ( ! /eeple at its po9t ( contact ) ! head1 & :i* completely %r\d$ ! head1 front & back2 !re 0 also ! rem>kable arrangem5t ( ! veil1 :i* 0 built up on a sy/em ( wires1 & :i* 0 call$ ! h5n94 ,illu/ration3 ,,he>t-,,%ap$ ,,head-,,dress4 ,a v>iation ( ! h5n9 0 ! butt]fly1 9 :i* ! /eeple :i* =m$ ! base ( ! head-dress 0 r$uc$ to a comp>atively %ort caul1 & ! veil ext5d$ itself on ei!r side l ! w+s ( an insect2 ?is1 9 a slightly diff]5t =m1 cont9u$ to ! ,tudor p]iod4 ,illu/ration3 ,,horn$ ,,head-,,dress4 ,!re 0 also ! balloon or turban4 ,?is1 l ! he>t-%ap$ head-dress1 comm5c$ ) a flat pad1 l a cake1 :i* 9 its e>li] /age 0 inv>iably ri*ly ornam5t$1 (f]+ no p>ticul> v>iety 9 its =m2 :5 x became r\nd1 x develop$ a second roll ar\nd ! =ehead1 ) b&s at int]vals1 :i* =m$ its con/ructive elem5ts4 ,not)/&+ ! /rictures pass$ ^u ^! head-dresses by contempor>y morali/s or puri/s & by subsequ5t writ]s1 :o simply e*o _! s5tim5ts )\t br++ any indep5d5t judgm5t to be> ^u ! matt]1 & :o (t5 possess no arti/ic k or ev5 p]ception1 ^! head-dresses are (t5 extremely piquant & qua9t2 extravagance !re 01 d\btless1 & ev5 ugl9ess2 b ev5 ! high /eeple 0 n out ( proportion1 z x mu/ be rememb]$ t ! g[ns & tra9s 7 correspond+ly long1 ?us balanc+ ! high tap]+ /eeple4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 ! :ole dress 0 9 keep+1 ! high tap]+ head-dress1 ! long tap]+ toes1 ! close-fitt+ sleeves 7:i*1 h[ev]1 7 occasionally provid$ ) an out] hang+ sleeve1 also long71 =m+ an ensemble :i* w\ld comp>e fav\rably ) ! dress ( any p]iod4 ,! ,tudor p]iod br\ght ab\t a complete *ange 9 ! head-dresses ( bo? m5 & wom52 z a matt] ( fact1 dress g5]ally ( ?is p]iod assum$ a grav] "*4 ,horns1 he>ts1 /eeples1 & butt]flies sudd5ly disappe>$1 & ! head-dress ( ! ladies ( ! ,c\rt assum$ t diamond-%ap$ =m ) :i* we are famili> 9 ! portraits by ,holbe91 :o d\btless mat]ially influ5c$ ! co/ume ( ?is p]iod4 ,x consi/$ ( a cap & cov]*ief1 & sometimes a hood1 ! cov]*ief be+ g5]ally all[$ to fall d[n on ! "r side4 ,! cap 0 inv>iably ri*ly jewell$ & embroid]$4 ,good examples may be se5 9 ! draw+ ( ! ,lady ,vaux at ,w9dsor & ! portrait ( ,jane ,seym\r at ,vi5na4 ,x 0 a dignifi$1 re/ra9$1 & exce$+ly beautiful head-dress2 if any confirmation ( ?is /atem5t 7 ne$$1 x is to be f\nd 9 ! rem>ks ( ! v>i\s lay writ]s on co/ume1 :o inv>iably describe x z h>% & ugly4 ,an excell5t example ( ! beautiful flat cap or bonnet worn g5]ally dur+ ! ,tudor p]iod is to be se5 9 ! portrait ( ,william1 ,duke ( ,juli]s & ,cleves1 by ,aldegrev] 7p4 #f74 ,! cap1 9 ?is in/ance1 is tilt$ to "o side ( ! head1 in/ead ( be+ worn flat on ! top2 x is jewell$ at int]vals along ! brim1 & plum$4 ,! mat]ial is mo/ c]ta9ly velvet1 :i* is t mo/ g5]ally us$ by ! nobility1 b1 9 #aega1 ) ! view ( enc\rag+ ,engli% manufactures1 x 0 by ,p>liam5t enact$ t all p]sons above ! age ( six ye>s1 except only ! nobility & p]sons ( degree1 %\ld on ,sabba?s & holydays we> caps ( wool1 ( ,engli% manufacture4 ,tw5ty-six ye>s aft]w>ds ?is law 0 repeal$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,francis ,,bacon4 ,engrav$ by ,w4 ,m>%all4 ,?is flat cap appe>s 9 a numb] ( portraits by ,holbe91 worn bo? tilt$ on "o side & flat on ! top ( ! head4 ,a cap ( ?is k9d might v well be worn by m5 at ! pres5t day1 m9us1 ( c\rse1 ! plume & jewels1 )\t appe>+ />tl+ly obtrusive4 ,x c\ld be made 9 any clo?1 & w\ld be a great improvem5t on ! caps :i* are at pres5t 9 use4 ,! extreme ref9em5t1 h[ev]1 ( ! ,tudor cap is due to ! mat]ial1 to ! quality ( ! workman%ip1 &1 9 ! in/ance ( ! portrait above-m5tion$1 to ! ri* jewels :i* adorn x4 ,simil> %ap$ headge> has1 z a matt] ( fact1 be5 rec5tly adopt$ by girls1 b !y are = ! mo/ "p vulg> productions1 indiff]5tly made1 & sold *eaply1 & af=d abundant evid5ce ( ! fact t ! mill9] possess$ no arti/ic k1 or ev5 ta/e1 & _h n tak5 ! tr\ble1 possibly _h n consid]$ x advisable1 to ref] to f9e examples4 ,! simple flat cap above m5tion$ 0 develop$ 9 v>i\s ways dur+ ! ,tudor p]iod1 bo? = m5 & = wom52 ! brim 0 ei!r divid$ 9 two or m p>ts1 or x 0 d\bl$1 sla%$1 & puff$ 9 v>i\s ways1 ! puff+ be+ ( a diff]5t mat]ial & col\r to ! re/ ( ! hat4 ,= wom5 & = ! milit>y1 l>ge plumes ( o/ri* fea!rs 7 add$4 ,_m examples ( ! latt] may be se5 9 ,hans ,burgkmair's ,triumphs ( ,maximilian4 ,9 ! eque/rian portrait ( ,*>les ,h[>d1 ,e>l ( ,nott+ham 7p4 #bc71 we get ! pot-hat prop] 7,elizabe?an v]sion71 diff]+ v little z to %ape f t at pres5t 9 use1 b plum$1 ) ?ree o/ri* fea!rs & ?ree o!r po9t$ ones4 ,! horse is simil>ly plum$4 ,! hat c sc>cely be said to be a ?+ ( beauty1 ev5 ) ! addition ( its o/ri* plume1 & adds no?+ to ! decorative beauty ( ! plate1 b r detracts f x4 ,illu/ration3 ,,?omas ,,killegrew4 ,engrav$ by ,william ,fai?orne4 ,! c5t5>y ( ! mod]n pot-hat 0 celebrat$ 9 ,p>is only la/ ye>1 &1 amid mu* jubilation1 a numb] ( cau/ic rem>ks 7 made by ,madame ,s>ah ,b]nh>dt & o!rs on ! subject ( man's cyl9drical attire4 ,on look+ at ! v>i\s developm5ts dur+ ! c5tury1 z illu/rat$ 9 a well-kn[n weekly magaz9e1 ! cont\r ( ! pot-hat has *ang$ p]haps less ?an "o might suppose4 ,x has n be5 a cont9u\s developm5t1 b1 r1 an oscillation backw>ds & =w>ds4 ,9 po9t ( fact1 a cont9u\s developm5t 0 impossible )\t tak+ leave ( ! pot-hat altoge!r2 "o mu/ ei!r retrace "o's /eps or />t ^u a new track1 z w be se5 by a ref]5ce to ! accompany+ diagrams1 :i* mu/ be consid]$1 be x und]/ood1 m]ely z diagrams1 & n 9 any s5se z repres5t+ ! limits ( ! arti/'s p[] ( realism4 ,! scale ( decorative developm5t is1 l ! scale ( tones 9 music1 absolute4 ,x is ! pr9ciple ^u :i* ,nature h]self works1 & ?is pr9ciple may be z well illu/rat$ by means ( ! pot-hat z by any?+ else1 z ! pr9ciple holds good1 & may be appli$ to any demn$ ?+1 z ,mr4 ,mantal9i w\ld say4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,developm5t ,,( ,,! ,,*imney-,,pot ,,hat4 ,we h1 !n1 ! two primal1 elem5tal =ms to "w )1 ! /raight l9e & ! curv$4 ,fig4 #a repres5ts ! pot-hat 9 :at may be call$ its primordial /ate1 9 :i* /ate x /&s 9 ! same relation to headge> g5]ally z did ,millbank ,prison to ar*itecture2 x w\ld n be possible to produce less v>iety except by r$uc+ its height & mak+ its %ape an exact p>allelogram4 ,9 ! next figure1 by sub/itut+ ! curv$ l9e = ! /raight l9es ( ! sides & brim1 we get a h9t ( ^? delicate & subtle curves = :i* ! pot-hat is fam\s4 ,9 ,fig4 #d--n to we>y ! g5tle read] ) a long diss]tation1 he w at once p]ceive ! pr9ciple--! degree ( curvature is c>ri$ z f> z is consonant ) dignity or propriety2 to c>ry x fur!r w\ld be to bord] ^u buffoon]y2 su* vag>ies c\ld n by any possibility be ent]ta9$ 9 a "w ( su* gravity & s]i\sness z ! pres5t4 ,! same may be said ( developm5t 9 ! direction ( height4 ,x only rema9s to develop ! hat by means ( r$uc+ ! wid? ( its cr[n at ! top1 s9ce ! dim5sion ,,aa is absolute1 z ! article mu/ con=m itself to ! human cranium1 :i* = pres5t purposes is a fix$ quantity4 ,x is at ?is po9t t we take an affectionate & regretful leave ( ! pot-hat prop]4 ,fig4 #e repres5ts ! high-cr[n$ hat ( ! reign ( ,james ,i41 & :i*1 9 fact1 0 worn dur+ ! great] "p ( ! ,/u>t p]iod4 ,i s5d y1 writes ! ,k+ 7,james ,i47 to 8 son1 9 #afbc1 = y\re we>+1 ! ?ree bre!r5 t ye kn[e full well1 b newlie sette1 & ! mirr\re ( ,fraunce1 ! fell[ ( ! ,portugall dyamont1 qui*e ,i wolde wi%e y to we>e alone 9 y\r hatte1 ) a little blakke fea!r2 & to ,buck+ham he says1 ,z to !e1 my sweete gossippe1 ,i s5d !e a faire table dyamont1 qui*e ,i wolde once h giv9 !e be=e if ?\ wolde h tak5 x1 & ,i h hung a faire pe>le to x = we>+ on ?y hatte or quhaire ?\ plaisis1 & if my ,babie w spaire !e ! two long dyamonts 9 =me ( an ank]1 ) ! p5dant dyamont1 x 7 fit = an admiral to we>e4444 ,if my ,babie w n spaire ! ank] f 8 mi/resse1 he may well l5d !e 8 r\nde broocke to we>e1 & yett he %all h jewells to we>e 9 8 hatte = ?ree great dayes4 ,x 0 cu/om>y to we> jewels ei!r 9 front ( ! hat or ^u ! brim :5 turn$ up4 ,(t5 a s+le pe>l 0 dep5d$ ov] ! edge ( ! brim4 ,su* a pe>l may be se5 9 ,william ,rog]s's portrait ( ,rob]t ,dev]eux1 second ,e>l ( ,essex 7,elizabe?'s ,essex71 ! hat1 9 ?is in/ance1 hav+ a broad brim4 ,illu/ration3 ,,rob]t ,,dev]eux1 ,,second ,,e>l ,,( ,,essex4 ,engrav$ by ,william ,rog]s4 ,to return to our diagrams4 ,no4 #f1 a fur!r n>r[+ ( ! top ( ! cr[n1 repres5ts ! qua9t ext+ui%] hats :i* h be5 worn at v>i\s p]iods1 & :i* are /ill worn by ! ,wel% peasantry4 ,!re came up a ,lass f a c\ntry t[n1 int5d+ to live 9 ! ,city1 ,9 a /eeple-cr[n ,hat & a ,p>agon ,g[n1 :o ?\ght h]self wondr\s pretty2 ,h] ,petticoat s]ge1 h] ,/ock+s 7 gre51 h] ,smock cut out ( a %eet1 ,sir2 ,& "u x all1 0 seldom yet se5 s fair a "y maid = ! /reet1 ,sir6 ,roxburghe ,ballads1 #afhe4 ,by l[]+ ! cr[n & wid5+ ! brim we arrive at ! sombr]o1 ,no4 #g4 ,! sl\* hat turn$ up on "o side1 ( ! ,/u>t p]iod1 0 ! precursor1 hi/orically & decoratively1 ( ! ?ree-corn]$ hat ( ! p]iod ( ! ,h\se ( ,orange4 ,x 0 aft]w>ds turn$ up on two sides1 & 9 ?is /age decorat$ ) fea!rs1 & f9ally turn$ up at ! back1 ?us =m+ ! ?ree-corn]$ hat1 :i* la/$ = a c5tury1 ! fea!rs disappe>+1 & ! edges trimm$ ) lace4 ,su* turn+ up ( ! brim 0 call$ cock+ ! hat4 ,! diff]5t modes ( cock+ ! hat 7 almo/ innum]able--9 fact1 accord+ to ! fancy ( ! we>]2 !re 0 ! ,monm\? cock1 aft] ! un=tunate ,duke ( t "n2 ! ,ramillie cock1 :i* came 9 at ! ,battle ( ,ramillies 9 #agjf2 ! milit>y cock & ! m]cantile cock2 & ^u ! accession ( ,george ,,iii4 7#agfj7 a hat worn ^u an av]age six in*es & ?ree-fif?s broad 9 ! brim1 & cock$ betwe5 ,quak] & ,kev5hull]4 ,:5 ,anna rul$1 & ,kev5hull] f\ght1 ,! hat its title f ! ,h]o caught4 ,art ( ,dress+ ! ,hair1 #aggj4 ,f a *apt] on hats 9 ! ,london ,*ronicle = #agfb we le>n t--,"s we> _! hats ) ! corn] t %\ld come ov] _! =eheads high 9 ! air2 ^! are ! ,gawkies4 ,o!rs d n above half cov] _! heads1 :i* is1 inde$1 ow+ to ! %all[ness ( _! cr[ns2 b1 betwe5 beav] & eyebr[s1 expose a blank =ehead1 :i* looks l a s&y road 9 a surveyor's plan4444 ,a gold button & loop to a pla9 hat di/+ui%es a p]son to be a little lunatic2 a gold b& r\nd x %[s ! own] to be v dang]\sly infect$2 & if a tassel is add$1 ! pati5t is incurable4 ,a man ) a hat l>g] ?an common repres5ts ! fable ( ! m\nta9 9 lab\r1 & ! hats edg$ r\nd ) a gold b9d+ belong to bro!rs ( ! turf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,letitia ,,bonap>te1 ,,"m ,,( ,,napoleon4 ,) ! adv5t ( ! ,fr5* ,revolution 9 #aghi ! ?ree-corn]$ cock$ hat disappe>s1 & 9 #ahjc we f9d a noticeable *ange 9 co/ume4 ,! ,fr5* anticipat$ ?is invasion by s5d+ ov] ! mo/ unsightly fa%ions t h ev] appe>$4 ,! mo/ di/+ui%+ features 7 ! cov]+s ( ! head1 :i* consi/$1 9 ! "o sex ( an enorm\s milit>y cap1 & 9 ! o!r ( a bonnet1 probably ( /raw1 ( a v ungraceful =m4 ,!y are repres5t$ 9 ! accompany+ cut1 tak5 f a c>icature entitl$ ',two ( ! ,wigg9ses--,tops & ,bottoms ( #ahjc1' publi%$ on ! #bnd ( ,july 9 t ye> 7,?omas ,wright1 ,works ( ,gillray74 ,illu/ration3 ,,anne ,,day4 ,engrav$ by ,james ,mac>dell4 ,9 #agfe a l>ge hood appe>$ call$ cala%1 made ( a framework ( :alebone hoops1 resembl+ ! hood ( a c>riage 7cal*e71 & pull$ ov] ! head by means ( a /r+4 ,x is said to h be5 introduc$ into ,engl& by ! ,du*ess ( ,b$=d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,two ,,( ,,! ,,wigg9ses--,,tops ,,& ,,bottoms ,,( #ahjc4 ,gillray4 ,:at %all we say to ! page ( ,p>isian head-dresses f ,bell's ,fa%ionable ,magaz9e = ,april1 #ahab1 ?ree ye>s be=e ! ,battle ( ,wat]loo8 ,goldsmi?1 9 a %ort essay on ! ladies' passion = levell+ all di/9ction ( dress1 says3 ,=eign]s obs]ve t !re are no ladies 9 ! _w m beautiful or m ill-dress$ ?an ^? ( ,engl&4 ,our c\ntrywom5 h be5 comp>$ to ^? pictures :]e ! face is ! "w ( a ,raphael1 b ! drap]ies ?r[n out by "s empty pret5d]1 de/itute ( ta/e1 & entirely unacqua9t$ ) design4 ,illu/ration3 ,,p>isian ,,head-,,dresses ,,= ,,april1 #ahab4 ,bell's ,fa%ionable ,magaz9e4 ,he adds1 by way ( comp5sation to ! ladies1 ,if ,i 7 a poet ,i might obs]ve1 on ?is occasion1 t s mu* beauty1 set (f ) all ! advantages ( dress1 w\ld be too p[]ful an antagoni/ = ! opposite sex2 & !re=e x 0 wisely ord]$ t our ladies %\ld want ta/e1 le/ _! admir]s %\ld entirely want reason4 ,x has always be51 h[ev]1 & is /ill1 a /ock say+ ) =eign]s t ,engli% wom5 are ill-dress$1 b ! say+ has little po9t 9 x1 s9ce ! majority ( ,engli% fa%ions /ill come f abroad4 ,on ! comp>atively r>e occasions :5 ,engli% wom5 rely ^u _! own inv5tion1 ta/e1 & judgm5t1 !y appe> bett] dress$ ?an ! wom5 ( any ,european c\ntry4 ,engli% wom5 "u ^! circum/ances1 !re=e1 if ! above /atem5t z to _! p]sonality be true1 mu/ necess>ily be ! mo/ *>m+ creatures 9 ! _w4 ,among/ mod]n head-dresses ! ,spani% mantilla und\bt$ly /&s out 9 pleasant relief f ! g5]al rule ( ! commonplace :i* obta9s at pres5t4 ,x is an entirely becom+ head-dress1 & reasonable1 z is also ! habit ( ,spani% wom5 ( c>ry+ fans1 :i* are usually atta*$ to ! wai/1 & s]ve also ! purpose ( sun%ades1 be+ held up to ! head on ! sunny side ( ! /reet4 ,! action is a mo/ graceful "o1 & ! conv5i5ce is obvi\s4 ,! panama hat is c]ta9ly ! mo/ satisfactory male headge>1 bo? z reg>ds appe>ance1 heal?1 durability1 & com=t4 ,! b[l] c sc>cely be said to be a ?+ ( beauty4 ,x has1 h[ev]1 be5 r5d]$ hi/oric by ! ,"r ,hon\rable ,john ,burns1 :o has e/abli%$ a prec$5t by appe>+ at ,buck+ham ,palace 9 ?is =m ( head-cov]+ = ! purpose ( receiv+ 8 seals ( (fice4 ,to return once aga91 & f9ally1 to ! *imney-pot4 ,milan has j rec5tly inaugurat$ h] ?ird ,int]national ,exposition ( ,indu/ries1 ,comm]ce1 & ,art3-- ,an amus+ sidelight ( ! ,exhibition is ! unprec$5t$ /imulus to ! sale ( /ovepipe hats occasion$ by a rigid regulation exclud+ e o!r k9d f ! inaugural function4 ,su* a rigid en=cem5t is q unkn[n 9 ,rome itself1 :]e !re are said to be ,cab9et ,m9i/]s1 ,s5ators1 & ,deputies :o are innoc5t ( ev] hav+ donn$ "o4 ,! /ory is told t sev]al prov9cial ,deputies :o 7 invit$ to ,milan 7 s fe>ful ( mi%ap t !y b\ght tall hats = _! wives z well z !mselves 7,vide daily pap]74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fool',s ,,cap ,,( ,,lea!r1 ,,g]man4 ,worn by ! c\rt fool ( an ,elector ( ,may5ce 7sev5te5? c5tury74 ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,,footnotes3 #ba ,x w\ld appe> to be a corruption ( mad z an att] 7add]74 ,! ^w add] is att] 9 ,saxon1 natt] 9 ,g]man4 ,its orig91 h[ev]1 is app>5tly some:at obscure4 #bb ,! above /ory 0 told to ! knight by a lady ( 8 acqua9tance :o 0 an eye-witness ( ! ev5t4 ,we give "h ,caxton's v]sion3--,= h] clo?yng & araye 0 diff]5t & no ?yng lyke to !yr1 & !re=e %e _h wel h] "p beholdyng & lokyng4 ,!nne said ! good ladyes to h]1 ',my fr5de1 telle ye u1 yf x please y[1 h[ ye "n t aray t ye h on y\r he$8' ,%e answ]de & saide1 ',! galh[s aray4' ',god bless u1' said ! good lady1 '! "n ( hit is n faire4'444 ',z f]re z ,i me remembre ( x1' cont9u$ ! knight's in=mant1 'hit 0 highe culew$ ) longe pynnes ( sylv] uppon h] h$e1 aft] ! makynge & man] ( a gybet or galh[s1 "r /raunge & m]veyl\s to se4' ,,ix ,,! ,,dress+ ,,( ,,! ,,hair1 ,,m\/a*ios1 ,,& ,,be>d ,truewit4 ,a wise lady w keep gu>d always ^u ! place1 t %e may d ?+s securely4 ,i once foll[$ a rude fell[ into a *amb]1 :]e ! poor madam1 = ha/e1 & tr\bl$1 snat*$ at h] p]uke to cov] h] baldness1 & put x on ! wrong way4 ,cl]imont4 ,o prodigy6 ,truewit4 ,& ! unconscionable knave held h] 9 complim5t an h\r ) t rev]s$ face1 :5 ,i /ill look$ :5 %e %\ld talk f ! o!r side4 ,cl]imont4 ,:y1 ?\ %\ld/ h reliev$ h]4 ,truewit4 ,no1 fai?1 ,i let h] alone1 z we'll let ?is argum5t1 if y please1 & pass to ano!r4 ,,b5 ,,jonson1 ,! ,sil5t ,woman1 ,act ,i4 sc4 #a4 ,illu/ration3 ,,comb 7,,italian1 ,,f\rte5? ,,c5tury74 ,,ix ,,! ,,dress+ ,,( ,,! ,,hair1 ,,m\/a*ios1 ,,& ,,be>d ,!re 0 no?+ new1 ev5 9 ! days ( ,solomon2 wigs1 curl+ irons1 hair p[d]1 & turn$-up m\/a*ios be+ no exception to ! rule4 ,we h abundant evid5ce1 bo? f ! concurr+ te/imony ( au?ors & f ! actual works :i* h come d[n to u1 t heat$ irons 7 employ$ f a v e>ly p]iod = ! purpose ( curl+ ! hair & be>d4 ,bo? ) ! ,assyrians1 & ! ,greeks ( ! e>li] p]iod1 ! hair & be>d 7 plait$ 9 a s]ies ( symmetrical curls & r+lets1 display+ ! utmo/ degree ( =mality 9 _! arrangem5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,assyrian ,,bas-,,relief4 ,lay>d's ,n9eveh4 ,! hair & be>d ( ,bel%azz> :5 he made a great fea/ to a ?\s& ( 8 lords1 & receiv$ an intimation ( an unpleasant "*1 convey$ to him 9 an unusual mann]1 7 c]ta9ly curl$ 9 su* wise1 & probably dy$ & p[d]$1 z 0 ! cu/om1 ! p[d]1 h[ev]1 be+ gold in/ead ( fl\r1 z 9 m rec5t days4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 gold 0 employ$ 9 v>i\s ways z an enri*m5t to ! hair4 ,! ,k+s ( ,egypt _h _! be>ds int]wov5 ) gold ?read4 ,h]odotus assures u t ! skulls ( ! ,egyptians 7 mu* h>d] ?an ^? ( ! ,p]sians1 ow+ to ! national cu/om ( %av+ ! heads ( _! *ildr5 at a v e>ly age4 ,he adds1 ,9 o!r c\ntries ! prie/s ( ! gods we> long hair2 9 ,egypt !y h x %av$4 ,) o!r m5 x is cu/om>y 9 m\rn+ = ! ne>e/ relations to h _! heads %orn2 ! ,egyptians1 on occasions ( dea?1 let ! hair gr[ bo? on ! head & face1 ?\gh till !n !y us$ to %ave4 ,! c]emonies & cu/oms relat+ to ! be>d are innum]able4 ,! managem5t ( ! be>d =m$ a consid]able "p ( ! religion ( ! ,t>t>s1 :o wag$ a long & bloody w> ) ! ,p]sians1 decl>+ !m infidels1 ?\gh 9 o!r respects ( ! same fai? z !mselves1 because !y refus$ to ca/ _! :isk]s aft] ! mode or rite ( ! ,t>t>s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,be>d$ ,,bac*us4 ,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts4 ,x has be5 record$ t ! ,greeks wore _! be>ds until ! "t ( ,alex&]1 :o1 fe>ful le/ ! l5g? ( _! be>ds %\ld prove a h&le to _! enemies1 comm&$ ! ,mac$onians to be %av51 & ! fir/ :o %av$ at ,a!ns ev] aft] bore ! addition ( 7%av57 on m$als4 ,not)/&+ ?is /atem5t1 h[ev]1 ,philip1 ! fa!r ( ,alex&]1 z well z ,amyras & ,ar*el\s1 8 pr$ecessors1 are repres5t$ )\t be>ds4 ,accord+ to ,pl9y1 ! ,romans did n beg9 to %ave until ! ye> ( ,rome #ded1 :5 ,p4 ,tit9ius br\ght ov] a /ock ( b>b]s f ,sicily4 ,pl9y adds t ,scipio ,africanus 0 ! fir/ to introduce ! fa%ion ( %av+ daily4 ,x became ! cu/om to h visits ( c]emony at ! cutt+ ( ! be>d = ! fir/ "t4 ,! fir/ f\rte5 ,roman ,emp]ors %av$ until ! "t ( ! ,emp]or ,adrian1 :o discont9u$ ! practice & wore a be>d1 = ! purpose1 h[ev]1 ( hid+ ! sc>s on 8 face4 ,f ,gregory ( ,t\rs we le>n t 9 ! ,royal family ( ,france x 0 = a long "t ! peculi> privilege ( ,k+s & ,pr9ces ( ! blood to we> long hair1 artfully dress$ & curl$2 ev]ybody else 0 poll$1 z a sign ( inf]iority & ob$i5ce4 ,to cut (f ! hair ( a son ( ,france "u ! fir/ race ( ,k+s 0 to exclude him f ! "r ( succession to ! cr[n1 & to r$uce him to ! condition ( a subject4 ,fr5* hi/orians1 h[ev]1 tell u t ,*>lemagne wore 8 hair %ort1 8 son mu* %ort]1 & ,*>les ! ,bald1 z 8 surname indicates1 none at all4 ,good ,luitpr& furi\sly declaim$ aga9/ ! ,emp]or ,phocyas = we>+ long hair1 aft] ! mann] ( all ! o!r ,emp]ors ( ! ,ea/1 ) ! exception ( ,!ophilus1 :o1 be+ bald1 enjo9$ all 8 subjects to %ave _! heads1 l ! fox ( sop1 :o1 hav+ surviv$ ! exp]i5ce ( a trap by ! sacrifice ( 8 tail1 h>angu$ ! o!r foxes on ! inconv5i5ce ( tails 9 g5]al1 & endeav\r$ to p]suade !m to cut (f !irs also4 ,illu/ration3 ,,greek ,,head-,,dresses4 ,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts4 ,9 ! ,*ur*1 too1 9 spite ( ! be>d ( ,a>on1 t w5t d[n to ! skirts ( 8 g>m5ts1 ! ,naz>ite law1 & ! reput$ long hair ( ! f\nd] ( ,*ri/ianity1 ! prie/hood habitually condemn$ long hair z be+ inconsi/5t ) ! sacr$ "* ( ! prie/'s (fice4 ,pope ,anictus is suppos$ to h be5 ! fir/ to =bid ! cl]gy to we> long hair4 ,! ,holy ,prelate1 ,wul/an1 reprov$ ! wick$ ( all ranks ) great boldness b he rebuk$ ^? ) ! greate/ sev]ity :o 7 pr\d ( _! long hair4#bc ,! ,naz>ite v[ is an act ( sacrifice 9 accordance ) ! t]ms ( ! law laid d[n 9 ,num4 vi4 #a-ba3 ,all ! days ( ! v[ ( 8 sep>ation %all no razor come ^u 8 head2 ,he %all be holy1 & %all let ! locks ( 8 hair gr[4 ,! ,naz>ite has be5 reg>d$ z a conqu]or :o subdu$ 8 temptations1 & :o wore 8 long hair z a cr[n1 ! hair be+ worn r\gh z a prote/ aga9/ fopp]y4 ,ano!r view1 h[ev]1 is t x 0 kept elaborately dress$1 a pro( ( ! exi/5ce ( ! cu/om be+ se5 9 ! sev5 locks ( ,samson3-- ,& %e made him sleep ^u h] knees2 & %e call$ = a man1 & %e caus$ him to %ave (f ! sev5 locks ( 8 head2 & %e began to afflict him1 & 8 /r5g? w5t f him 7,judg4 xvi4 #ai74 ,let u li/5 to ! /ory 9 ! qua9t1 silv]y music ( ,*auc]3-- ,?is ,sampson ney!r sis] dronk ne wyn ,ne on 8 he$ com ras\r noon ne s*]e ,by precept ( ! messag] divyn ,= alle 8 /r5g!s 9 8 h]es 74 4 4 4 4 4 ,unto 8 lemman ,dalida he tolde ,t 9 8 h]es al 8 /r5g! lay ,& falsly to 8 foom5 s*e him solde ,& slepy+ 9 hir b>m ^u a day ,s*e made to clippe or s*]e 8 h]es away ,& made 8 foom5 al 8 craft espi5 ,& :an ?ay fond him 9 ?is array ,?ay b\nd him fa/ & put out bo! 8 y54 ,b er 8 he] clipp$ 0 or i-s*ave ,!r 0 no bond ) :i* m5 might him bynde ,b n[ is he 9 pris\n 9 a cave ,!r z ?ay made him at ! qu]ne grynde ,o noble ,sampson /r5ge/ ( al man kynde ,o :ilom jugge 9 glory & 9 ri*esse ,n[ may/[ wepe ) ?9e eyy5 blynde ,si? ?\ fro wele art falle to wrec*$nesse4 ,monk's ,tale4 ,illu/ration3 ,,roman ,,head-,,dresses4 ,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts4 ,:ile ! hair 0 ! pride1 ! glory1 & ! /r5g? ( ,samson1 x 0 ! bane ( ,absalom1 = by ! abundance ( 8 hair he met 8 dea?4 ,9 all ,israel !re 0 none to be s mu* prais$ z ,absalom = 8 beauty3 f ! sole ( 8 foot ev5 to ! cr[n ( 8 head !re 0 no blemi% 9 him4 ,& :5 he poll$ 8 head 7= x 0 at e ye>'s end t he poll$ x3 because ! hair 0 heavy1 !re=e he poll$ x71 he weigh$ ! hair ( 8 head at two hundr$ %ekels aft] ! k+'s weight4#bd ,_h he poll$ x at m frequ5t int]vals he might h made good 8 succession to ! cr[n1 & ,solomon nev] h be5 k+1 = ,absalom _h /ol5 ! he>ts ( ! p ( ,israel4 ,z 9 a mighty riv] we may trace back its c\rse to ! little rill or rivulet :i* trickles f ! m\nta9 side1 s we may (t5 trace ! orig9 ( great ev5ts to v small beg9n+s4 ,h[ might ! face ( bo? ,fr5* & ,engli% hi/ory h be5 *ang$ b = ,pet] ,lomb>d's dislike ( a be>d6 ,l\is ,,vii4 imag9$ x a matt] ( consci5ce to give an example ( submission to ! comm& ( ! bi%ops on ! subject ( long hair1 & to atone = 8 _m cruelties by be+ %av$ 9 public4 ,he reckon$1 h[ev]1 )\t 8--wife1 ,eleanor ( ,aquita9e1 a jocose madcap1 :o ralli$ him ^u 8 %ort hair & %av5 *94 ,i ?\ght ,i _h m>ri$ a pr9ce1 b f9d ,i h w$d$ no?+ b a monk4 ,! brea* occasion$ by a b>e face 0 wid5$1 & ! m>riage dissolv$4 ,six weeks aft]w>ds ,eleanor 0 aga9 a wife--,h5ry1 ,duke ( ,norm&y1 :o aft]w>ds reign$ z ,h5ry ,,ii4 ( ,engl&1 be+ ! husb&1 :o obta9$ ) h] fair ,aquita9e ) its ?ree prov9ces4 ,h5ce arose ^? w>s :i* ravag$ ,france = ne> ?ree c5turies1 9 :i* upw>ds ( ?ree millions ( ,fr5*m5 p]i%$ on ! fields ( ,cressy1 ,ag9c\rt1 & ,poiti]s1 & on _m a less] field4 ,h5ry ,i4 issu$ an edict = ! suppression ( long hair1 & z a natural consequ5ce long hair imm$iately became ! rage4 ,?is edict1 h[ev]1 0 ! result ( a visit to ,norm&y1 & ! prea*+ ( a prelate nam$ ,s]lo1 ^: eloqu5ce 0 su* t ! mon>* & 8 c\rti]s 7 mov$ to te>s4 ,! a/ute prie/1 p]ceiv+ ! impression he _h creat$1 imm$iately :ipp$ a pair ( scissors f 8 sleeve & cropp$ ! :ole congregation6 ,! patri>*al be>d & long hair ( ,edw>d ,,iii41 z exhibit$ 9 8 effigy at ,we/m9/]1 is 9 /rict con=mity ) ! g5]al "* ( ?is s]i\s m9d$ mon>*1 /rongly contra/+ ) ! "* ( 8 successor1 ,ri*>d ( ,bordeaux1 :o 0 ! greate/ fop ( ! day4 ,dur+ ! c5tury :i* foll[$ ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iii4 be>ds 7 worn ( e imag9able cut4 ,!re 0 ! fantail be>d1 ) its wadd$ nightcap = protection dur+ sleep1 ( ! /iff5+ :i* 0 appli$4 ,!re 01 z lat]1 ! ca!dral be>d1 ! spade be>d1 ! /iletto be>d1 & !re 0 an extraord9>y curl$ tuft :i* resembl$ a corkscrew4 ,!re 0 app>5tly z mu* v>iety ( col\r z ( =m-- ,i w dis*>ge x 9 ei!r y\r /raw-col\r be>d1 y\r orange tawny be>d1 y\r purple-9-gra9 be>d1 or y\r ,fr5*-cr[n-col\r be>d1 y\r p]fect yell[ 7,a ,midsumm] ,night's ,dream1 ,act ,i4 sc4 #b74 ,our ,royal ,bluebe>d regi/]$ a solemn v[ be=e ! ,fr5* ,ambassador t he w\ld nev] t\* razor till he _h visit$ 8 good bro!r ^u ! ,field ( ! ,clo? ( ,gold1 ! good bro!r mak+ a simil> v[4 ,) *>act]i/ic ,engli% p]fidy ,h5ry broke 8 v[1 :ile ! ,fr5*man rema9$ true2 x 0 !re=e f\nd necess>y = ,sir ,?omas ,boleyn to apologise = 8 ma/]'s bad fai? by say+ t ! ,que5 ( ,engl& felt an insup]able antipa?y to a bu%y *94 ,h5ry1 inde$1 n only %av$ 8 own *9 & wore 8 hair %ort1 b comm&$ all 8 subjects to d ! same4 ,he grant$ ! b>b]s a new *>t]1 incorporat$ !m ) ! surgeons1 & became a memb] ( _! company4 ,x 0 f\nd t ! sci5ce & connyng ( ,physyke & ,surg]ie 0 practis$ by unskilful p]sons1 common artific]s1 z ,smy!s1 wev]s1 & wom51#be :o boldely & cu/umably take ^u !im grete curis1 & ?yngys ( great difficultie1 9 :i* !y p>tely use soc]y & :i*crafte to ! griev\s hurt ( ! ,kyng's liege p4 ,x 0 !re=e enact$ t none %\ld practise z a physician & surgeon 9 ,london except by exam9ation1 duly approv$ by ! ,bi%op ( ,london or ,dean ( ,/4 ,paul's7674 ,z x seem$ ne$ful to provide skilful surgeons = ! hel? ( mans body :an infirmities & seckness %al happ51 & z !re are _m surgeons 9 ,london :o give in/ructions to /ud5ts1 :o ex]cise ( ! said sci5ce to ! greate relief1 com=te1 & socc\r ( mu*e p1 & to ! sure saveg>d ( _! bodily hel?1 _! lymmes & lyves1 & z two companies ( surgeons exi/ 9 ,london1 "o ! ,b>b\rs ( ,london1 & ?o!r company ! ,surgeons ( ,london1 :i* company ( b>b\rs 7 fir/ incorporat$ undre ! greate ,seale ( ! late ,k+ ( fam\s memory1 ,edw>de ! iiij?1 dat$ at ,we/m9/] ! xxiiij? day ( ,febru>y 9 ! fir/ y]e ( 8 reigne1 ^! two companies ought !re=e to be unit$ into "o body1 ) a common seal1 p[] to hold l&s1 & all ! rights ( bo? ! old companies4 ,illu/ration3 ,,head-,,dress4 ,f ,viollet le ,duc 7,fifte5? ,c5tury74 ,x 0 fur!r f\nd t surgeons 7 9 ! habit ( tak+ diseas$ p]sons into _! h\ses1 :]e !y doo use & ex]cise b>b]y1 z was%+ & %av+1 & o!r feates !runto belong+1 v p]il\s to ! ,k+'s p4 ,n[1 aft] ! fea/ ( ! ,nativitie ( our ,lorde ,god next com+1 no b>b] 9 ,london %all practise surg]y1 lett+ ( bludde1 or any o!r ?+ belong+ to surg]y1 draw+ ( te? onelye except4 ,& no surgeon %all occupye or ex]cise ! feate or crafte ( b>b>ye or %av+1 ei!r by himself or by any o!r = him1 to 8 or _! use4 ,x 0 also provid$ t any p]son may keep a b>b] or a surgeon z 8 s]vant1 :o may practise 9 8 ma/]'s h\se4 ,x w\ld appe> t ! obs]vance ( ! ,"l's day 0 m /rictly en=c$ 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury ?an x is at pres5t-- ,att ! ,c\ncell ,*amb] on ,ouze bridge at ,york ye xx? ( ,june1 ,a4,d4 #afgf1 x 0 decl>$ & enact$ t :]eas b>b] surgeons h be5 %av+ & cutt+ hair on ! ,"l's day1 ,we ord]1 t if any bro!r ( ! said company tonse1 b>be1 or trim any p]son on ! ,"l's day1 9 any ,inn1 or o!r place1 public or private1 ( :i* ! ,"l ,mayor %all judge1 he %all be f9$ t5 %ill+s1 & ! se>*]s ( ! said company = ! "t be+ are to make dilig5t se>* 9 all public & private h\ses z a=esaid1 = discov]y ( su* (f5d]s4 #agde 0 ! fatal ye> ( ! sep>ation ( ! b>b]s f _! m dignifi$ colleagues4 ,_! w+s 7 clipp$1 _! privileges curtail$1 ! b>b]'s pole & bas91 h[ev]1 /ill rema9+1 9 sil5t1 eloqu5t te/imony ( _! =m] glory & greatness4#bf ,9 ! reign ( ,good ,que5 ,bess ! campaign aga9/ long hair is cont9u$4 ,philip ,/ubbes extols b>b]s to ! skies3 ,!re are no f9] fell[es "u ! ,sunne1 nor exp]t] 9 _! noble sci5ce ( b>b+ ?an !y be4 ,b>b]s are necess>y4 ,i _c b m>vell at ! bea/l9esse ( "s ruffians 7= !y are no sob] ,*ri/ians7 t w h _! hair gr[ ov] _! faces l mon/]s1 & savage p2 r l mad m5 ?an o!rwise1 hang+ d[ne ov] _! %\ld]s1 z wom5s haire do?2 :i* inde$ is an ornam5t to !m1 be+ giv5 !m z a sign ( subjection4 ,9 man x is a %ame & repro*1 z ! ,apo/le prove?4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ! ,/u>ts long hair 0 ! vogue--) love-locks & he>t break]s4 ,a long love-lock on 8 left %\ld] plight1 ,l to a woman's hair1 well %[$ a woman's sprite4 ,8 be>d 0 ruddy hue1 & f 8 head ,a wanton lock itself did d[n dispread ,^u 8 back2 to :i*1 :ile he did live1 ,?' ambigu\s "n ( ,elf-lock he did give4 ,! ,great ,oy]4 ,! absurd fa%ion ( pa9t+ & pat*+ ! face1 mu* ridicul$ by ! satiri/s1 began 9 ! reign ( ,elizabe?4 ,:]s ! ,devill8 ,he's got a boxe ( wom5's pa9t-- ,:]e pride is1 !rs ! ,divell too4 ,quips ^u ,que/ions1 #afjj4 ,?is is an ,embleame = ^? pa9t$ faces1 ,:]e dev9e beautie re/s h] = a:ile1 ,fill+ _! br[es ) /ormes & great disgraces1 ,t on ! pa9$ s\le yeelds n a smile1 ,b puts true love into p]petuall exile2 ,h>d-he>t$ ,s\le1 su* =tune light on !e ,t ?\ mai/ be trans=m'd z well z he4 ,,*e/]',s ,love's ,m>tyr1 #afja4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,pa9t$ ,,face4 ,roxburghe ,ballads4 ,by ! reign ( ,james ,i4 ?is ridicul\s fa%ion _h become common4 ,all sorts ( curi\s devices 7 made use (--spots1 />s1 cresc5ts1 & 9 "o woodcut a coa* & coa*man ) two horses & po/ilions appe> ^u ! lady's =ehead4 ,! fa%ion cont9u$ = a long p]iod2 9 fact1 dur+ ! great] "p ( ! ,georgian era1 :5 x _h deg5]at$ into m]e spots or small pat*es4 ,at ! close ( ! eighte5? c5tury x _h entirely disappe>$4#bg ,:]=1 faire d\ghtres1 taki! ensaumple1 & holde x 9 y\r h]te t ye put no ?+e to poppe1 pa9te1 & fayre y\re visages1 ! :i* is made aft] ,goddes ymage1 o!rwise ?anne y\r ,creat\re & nature ha? orde9$2 & t ye plucke no br[es1 no!r temples1 nor =h$2 & also t ye was%e n ! "h ( y\re h$e 9 none o!r ?+ b 9 lye & wat] 7,advice ( ! ,knight ( ,la ,t\r ,l&ry to 8 iij d\ghtres74 ,,! ,,inv9cible ,,pride ,,( ,,wom54 ,i h a ,wife1 ! m's my c>e1 :o l a gaudy peacock goes1 ,9 top-knots1 pat*es1 p[d]'d hair1 besides %e is ! wor/ ( %r[s2 ,?is fills my he>t ) grief & c>e to ?9k ,i mu/ ?is burd5 be>4 ,x is h] =eca/ to contrive to rise ab\t ! h\r ( ,noon1 ,& if %e's trimm'd & rigg'd by five1 :y ?is ,i c\nt is v soon2 ,!n goes %e to a ball or play1 to pass ! pleasant night away4 ,& :5 %e home returns aga91 conduct$ by a bully sp>k1 ,if t ,i 9 ! lea/ compla91 %e does my words & actions m>k1 ,& does likewise my gullet te>1 !n ro>s l ?und] 9 ! air4 ,i nev] _h a groat ) h]1 mo/ solemnly ,i "h decl>e2 ,yet %e's z pr\d z ,lucif]1 & _c /udy :at to we>3 ,9 sumptu\s robes %e /ill appe>s1 :ile ,i am =c'd to hide my e>s4 ,! l(ty ,top-knots on h] cr[n1 ) :i* %e sails abroad )al1 ,makes me ) c>e1 alas6 look d[n1 z hav+ n[ no hope at all1 ,t ev] ,i %all happy be 9 su* a flaunt+ ,wife z %e4 ,9 debt ) e %op %e runs1 = to appe> 9 gaudy pride1 ,& :5 ! mill9] %e duns1 ,i !n am =c'd my head to hide3 ,de> fri5ds1 ?is pr\d imp]i\s wife %e makes me we>y ( my life4 ,roxburghe ,ballads1 circa #afhf4 ,wigs ( v>i\s k9ds h be5 9 use f v e>ly p]iods1 z ! grace & ornam5t :i* ! hair imp>ts to ! human frame h always be5 g5]ally recognis$4 ,! want ( x has ev] be5 deem$ a subject ( reproa*1 held 9 ridicule1 9 all climes2 h5ce ! con/ant rec\rse to false hair4 ,/rutt affirms t ! be>ds ( ! ,egyptians1 z well z ! cov]+s = ! head1 appe> to h be5 made ( false hair1 & remov$ :5 ! face 0 %av$4 ,!re is no d\bt t ! ,egyptians wore wigs1 z examples are to be se5 9 ! ,briti% & o!r museums4 ,! wig giv5 9 ! illu/ration is probably a woman's1 & 0 f\nd ne> ! small temple ( ,isis at ,!bes4 ,x belongs to ! sev5te5? dyna/y1 ab\t ,b4,c4 #aejj2 x is =m$ ( natural curl+s ( ! hair 9 ! upp] portion1 & ! l[] portion1 :i* 0 orig9ally mu* long]1 consi/s ( long1 ?9 plaits1 a numb] ( :i* h be5 brok5 (f & decay$1 ! ?9 plait+s contra/+ v happily ) ! natural curls4 ,illu/ration3 ,,wig1 ,,egyptian1 ,b4,c4 #aejj4 ,briti% ,museum4 ,lamprideses describes ! wig ( ! ,emp]or ,commodus z p[d]$ ) scrap+s ( gold1 & oil$ ) glut9\s p]fumes = ! p[d] to hang by4 ,wigs fir/ appe> 9 ,engl& dur+ ! reign ( ,/eph51 b are seldom m5tion$ until ! ,tudor p]iod4 ,! ,maid5 ,que5 is popul>ly suppos$ to h _h h] head %av$1 & to h worn a wig4 ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots _h a mo/ complete collection ( wigs1 & x is record$ t %e wore "o at h] execution4 ,! p]iwig fir/ appe>s 9 hi/ory z ! headge> ( a fool4 ,9 ! privy purse exp5ses ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 = ,decemb]1 #aebb1 occurs ! entry3 ,= a p]yke = ,sexton ! ,k+'s fool xx %ill+s4 ,by ! middle ( ! same c5tury _! use _h become g5]al1 & x 0 dang]\s = *ildr5 to w&] alone1 z !y 7 liable to be depriv$ ( _! hair = ! manufacture ( ^! articles4 ,! p]iwig blossom$ out dur+ ! reign ( ,*>les ,,ii41 & atta9$ enorm\s proportions2 x 0 (t5 gaily deck$ ) ribbons & all[$ to hang ov] ! front & back = "s di/ance4 ,! gossip+ ,pepys1 compla9+ 9 8 di>y ( ,octob] #cj1 #affc1 ( 8 extravagant pur*ases 9 wigs1 clo!s1 c41 m5tions1 among/ o!r ?+s1 two p]iwigs1 "o :]e( co/ me #c & ! o!r #djs4 ,i h worn nei!r yet1 b w beg9 next week1 ,god will+4 ,a ,london] into ! c\ntry w5t1 ,to visit 8 t5nants1 & ga!r 9 r5t2 ,he on a brave geld+ did gallantly ride1 ,) boots & ) spurs1 & a sword by 8 side4 ,because t ! ,innkeep]s !y w n score ,he l9$ 8 pockets ) silv] good /ore2 ,& he wore a wigg co/ ?ree gu9eas & m2 ,8 hat 0 cockt up1 ,sir1 beh9d & be=e4 ,roxburghe ,ballads1 #afhh4 ,wigs :5 fir/ worn 7 extremely exp5sive1 co/+ z mu* z a hundr$ gu9eas1 & _! value (t5 l$ to _! be+ /ol5 f ! head4 ,! diff]5t %apes :i* ! wig assum$ 7 innum]able1 & ! diff]5t classes ( society 7 id5tifi$ ) p>ticul> %ap$ wigs4 ,!re 7 ! cl]ical & ! physical2 ! huge tie p]uke = ! man ( law1 ! brigadi] & ! trem5d\s fox-e> or clu/] ( temple curls ) a pigtail beh9d1 = ! ,army & ,navy4 7,! ,army pigtail 0 %ort5$ to sev5 in*es 9 #ahjd1 & 9 #ahjh 0 cut (f altoge!r47 ,! m]*ant1 ! man ( bus9ess & ( law affect$ ! grave full-bottom2 ! tradesman 0 di/+ui%$ by ! snug bob or natty scrat*2 ! c\ntry g5t by ! natural fly & hunt+ p]uke2 ! coa*man wore 81 z d "s to ?is day1 9 imitation ( ! curl$ hair ( a wat]-dog4 ,!re 7 also1 z a writ] 9 ! ,london ,magaz9e ( #agec in=ms u1 ! pigeon's w+1 ! comet1 ! caulifl[]1 ! royal bird1 ! /aircase1 ! ladd]1 ! bru%1 ! wild bo>'s back1 ! temple1 ! rh9oc]os1 ! cord$ wolf's paw1 ,c\nt ,saxe's mode1 ! %e-dragon1 ! rose1 ! crut*1 ! neglig5t1 ! *ancellor1 ! cut bob1 ! long bob1 ! half natural1 ! *a9-buckle1 ! cord$ buckle1 ! snail back1 & _m o!rs4 ,illu/ration3 ,,beau ,,field+4 ,aft] ,wiss+4 ,! ,judge1 says ,=tescue1 :ile he sitte? 9 ! ,k+'s ,c\rts1 we>e? a :ite quoife ( silke1 :i* is ! pr9cipal & *iefe insignem5t ( habite :]e) ,s]geants-at-lawe are dekk$1 & nei!r ! ,ju/ice nor ! ,s]geant %all ev] put (f ! quoife1 no1 n 9 ! ,k+'s pres5ce1 ?\gh he bee 9 talke ) 8 maje/ie's highnesse4 ,! coif-cap is /ill worn on occasions :5 ! ,judge passes s5t5ce ( dea?1 b ) ! col\r *ang$ to black1 ! cap be+ worn ov] ! wig4 ,samuel ,rog]s 9 8 ,table ,talk tells a good /ory ( ,"l ,ell5bor\gh's wig4 ,on "o occasion :5 ! di/+ui%$ ,judge 0 ab\t to g on circuit1 8 ,lady intimat$ t %e w\ld l to accompany him4 ,he repli$ t he _h no objection1 provid$ %e did n encumb] ! c>riage ) b&-boxes1 :i* 7 8 utt] abhorr5ce4 ,dur+ ! fir/ day's j\rney1 happ5+ to /ret* 8 legs1 he /ruck 8 foot aga9/ some?+ bel[ ! seat1 & discov]$ t x 0 "o ( ! dete/$ b&-boxes4 ,up w5t ! w9d[1 & out w5t ! b&-box4 ,! coa*man /opp$1 & ! footman1 ?9k+ t ! b&-box _h tumbl$ out ( ! w9d[ by "s extraord9>y *ance1 0 ab\t to pick x up4 ,drive on6 ?und]$ 8 lord%ip4 ,! b&-box 0 accord+ly left by ! dit*4 ,^u 8 arrival at ! c\rt at :i* he 0 to (ficiate1 & array+ himself = 8 appe>ance at ! c\rt-h\se1 ,n[1 said he1 :]e's my wig8--:]e is my wig8 ,my "l1 repli$ ! att5dant1 x 0 ?r[n out ( ! c>riage w9d[6 ,illu/ration3 ,,portrait ,,( ,,! ,,pa9t] ,,hyac9! ,,rigaud4 ,f #aggj onw>ds 0 ! p]iod ( ! highe/ blossom+ ( fem99e head-ge>4 ,! bodies ( ^! enorm\s creations 7 =m$ ( t[1 ov] :i* ! hair 0 drawn 9 great curls1 rolls1 bobs1 c41 ) false hair add$1 ! :ole freely pla/]$ ov] ) p[d]1 pomatum1 c41 decorat$ ) huge b[s1 ribbons1 fea!rs1 & fl[]s4 ,9 ! ,mac>oni ,dialogue--a colloquy betwe5 ,sir ,h>ry ,dimple & ,lady ,betty ,frisky--9 ! ,lady's ,magaz9e1 iv4 #aggc1 :i* is illu/rat$ by a picture ( a lady & g5tleman discuss+ ) great animation ! m]its ( ! male & female co/umes ( ?is p]iod1 9 :i* !y are clad1 ! g5tleman is pres5t+ to ! lady a nosegay1 & %e invites 8 int]e/ 9 ! excessively l(ty coiffure :i* %e is we>+4 ,p]mit me to pres5t y\r lady%ip ) ?is boquet--x has be5 to ,w>r5's1 d\bly p]fum$ & sc5t$2 s t positively1 my lady1 x has n ! lea/ ( ! vulg> od\r ( ! fl[]s4 ,i v[1 ,sir ,h>ry1 y are a man ( su* nice s5sations t y w\ld d hon\r to nobility4 ,i am surpris$ y h hi!rto be5 ov]look$ 9 ! creation ( ,lords4 ,to be sure1 my lady1 my ta/e has nev] yet be5 call$ into "q4 ,x 0 ,i :o fir/ de?ron$ ^? abom9able mon/]s ! ,bucks1 & e/abli%$ ! reign ( ! ,mac>onies--:o fir/ improv$ ^u ! ,p\dre la m>*ale by ?r[+ 9 a da% ( ! violet4 ,?is hat y\r lady%ip sees is ( my own cock+--^? b>b>ians ! hatt]s h no m idea ( 'de retr\ss] un *apeau' = a man ( g5u9e ta/e1 ?an !y "k h[ to we> x1 & s5d x home ) ! smell ( ! dye1 almo/ suffici5t to make "o fa9t4 ,i always ord] my valet to give x a ?or\gh p]fume be=e x comes into my pres5ce4 ,o6 exquisite ref9em5t--:at d y ?9k ( my cap8 ,amaz+1 my lady1 beyond description--yet1 _h x be5 b an in* high]1 x w\ld h be5 at ! v summit ( ! mode--y w\ld !n h be5 unable to come into a room )\t /oop+1 or rid+ 9 a coa* )\t ! top be+ height5$4 ,y see1 ,sir ,h>ry1 ,i h anticipat$ y3 t ^u ! table is two in*es high]2 ,i %all we> x to-morr[ night at ! ,pan!on4 ,i hope ,i %all h ! felicity ( y\r lady%ip's h& to walk a m9uet4 ,we %all h all eyes ^u u1 no d\bt6 ,i beg1 ,sir ,h>ry1 t y\r club may be increas$ 9 proportion to my head1 else we %all n be fit p>tn]s4 ,my lady1 ,i %all h x z l>ge aga9--my t\pee %all be height5$ ?ree in*es4 ,y w !n1 ,sir ,h>ry1 be ! emp]or ( ! ,mac>onies4 ,& y1 my lady1 _! empress4 ,illu/ration3 ,,ridicul\s ,,ta/e1 ,,or ,,! ,,lady',s ,,absurdity4 ,9 a pr9t ( ! p]iod ( ! ,fr5* lady 9 ,london1 by ,j4 ,h4 ,grimm1 publi%$ by ,c>r+ton ,b[les1 :o appe>s to h be5 some:at ( a wag among/ publi%]s1 devot+ himself to ! curi\s & extraord9>y1 ! lady is se5 b[+ z %e ent]s ! room1 ! head-dress rea*+ to ! top ( ! ceil+4 ,! good man ( ! h\se is s a/oni%$ & ov]come t he falls to ! gr\nd1 br++ ! table ) him4 ,a l>ge picture ^u ! wall repres5ts ! ,peak ( ,t5]iffe4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,fr5* ,,lady ,,9 ,,london4 ,ano!r pr9t1 issu$ by ! same publi%]1 repres5t+ ! fa%ionable head-dresses = ! ye> #aggf1 %[s two ladies out walk+1 att5d$ by _! black s]vant1 ) head-dresses two y>ds high4 ,9 ! illu/ration giv5 ( ,ridicul\s ,ta/e1 or ! ,lady's ,absurdity1 ,monsieur le ,friseur is m\nt$ on a high pair ( /eps1 & is op]at+ ^u ! summit ( ! lady's coiffure2 a g5tleman is tak+ /ock1 & giv+ ord]s f bel[4 ,9 ! example giv5 f ,jacquem91 ! head-dress repres5ts a %ip 9 full sail4 ,illu/ration3 ,,head-,,dress4 ,f ,jacquem94 ,9 #aggf an et*+ appe>$ entitl$ ,bunk]'s ,hill1 or ,am]ica's ,head-dress4 ,! enorm\s headge> ( ! lady repres5ts ! battle1 ) t5ts1 =tifications1 cannon1 & battalions4 ,f ! cre/s ( ! ?ree hills ( ! head-dress1 :i* are duly =tifi$ & def5d$ ) soldi]y & cannon1 ?ree bann]s are fly+1 on :i* are figur$1 respectively1 a goose1 a monkey1 & two ladies hold+ arr[s4 ,! l[] portion ( ! head-dress repres5ts a sea fight4 ,9 ! same ye> appe>$ ,! ,new ,fa%ion$ ,phaeton1 a mezzot9t repres5t+ a conveyance provid$ ) spr+s1 :i* lifts ! lady & h] headge> up to ! fir/-floor w9d[1 & does away ) ! ne$ = walk+ up & d[n /airs4 ,ano!r pr9t issu$ by ! same publi%] is a h9t to ! ladies to take c>e ( _! heads4 ,! ladies' head-dress hav+ caught alight f a *&eli] hang+ f ! ceil+ ( a high room1 & p are putt+ out ! fire by means ( l>ge squirts4 ,a *>m+ design = a fancy head-dress is entitl$ ,betty ! ,cook maids ,head dre/4 ,x is 9 ! =m ( a he>t1 ! c5tre ( :i* is occupi$ by a ,*e%ire *eese ) mice1 surr\nd$ ) a bord] ( gre5groc]y1 c4 ,on ! summit is a /ove1 ) fire alight & meat cook+4 ,a monkey sits ^u ! /ove1 we>+ a fool's cap & bells1 & admir+ himself 9 a mirror4 ,on ei!r side ( ! head-dress are two trophies compos$ respectively ( a mop & fire-irons & a besom & cook+ ut5sils4 ,! leg5d runs-- ,! ta/e at pres5t all may see1 ,b none c tell :at is to be4 ,:o kn[s1 :5 fa%ion's :ims are spread1 ,b ea* may we> ?is kit*5 head8 ,! noddle t s va/ly swells1 ,may we> a fool's cap hung ) bells4 ,high plumes ( fea!rs re-appe>$ 9 #agif4 ,gillray produc$ a c>icature ( a fa%ionable belle j\rney+ to ! ,assembly ,rooms at ,ba? 9 a s$an *air4 ,! top ( ! conveyance is op5$ to accommodate ! lady's head-dress1 a mon/r\s fea!r project+ y>ds above ! s$an--a p>asol is fa/5$ to a long pole /rapp$ on ! back ( ! h9d]mo/ portion & protect+ ! top4 ,dur+ ! fea!r p]iod1 a fav\rite idea 0 to repres5t attacks by o/ri*es1 peacocks1 & o!r int]e/$ birds4 ,?is occurs 9 a numb] ( pr9ts ( ! p]iod4 ,! pr9t by ,john ,collet1 #aggi1 ( ,! ,fea!r$ ,fair is a ,fright2 or1 ,re/ore ! ,borr[$ ,plumes1 repres5ts two girls attack$ by o/ri*es3-- ,two lassies :o w\ld l _! mi/resses %9e1 ,on _! heads clap'd "s fea!rs to make !m look f9e2 ,:5 two o/ri*es sudd5ly came )9 sight1 ,& put ! poor girls 9 a t]rible fright4 ,b h[ ! ,birds got to ,engl&'s no matt]1 ,?o' !y c]ta9ly made a mo/ t]rible clatt]2 ,fanny scream$ z %e ran1 & scamp]+ ,polly1 ,) h] ,fan f\ght ! birds 9 def5ce ( h] folly4 ,if ! read] be curi\s 9 reg>d to ! modus op]&i ( ^! a/oni%+ creations1 he 7or m probably x w be %e7 is ref]r$ to ,plocacosmos2 or1 ,! ,:ole ,art ( ,hairdress+1 by ,james ,/ew>t1 #aghb1 :]e9 ! my/]ies ( ! art are set =? ) great m9ut5ess & elaboration1 f> too long to be expla9$ "h4 ,! directions = ! lady's nightcap may1 h[ev]1 be giv53-- ,all t is requir$ at night is to take ! cap or toke (f1 z any o!r ornam5t1 & z y put !m on1 y c easily "k h[ to take !m (f3 ) reg>d to ! hair1 no?+ ne$ be t\*$ b ! curls2 y may take ! p9s out ( !m1 &1 ) a little s(t pomatum 9 y\r h&s1 /roke ! hairs t may h />t$2 d !m ) nice long roll]s1 w9d !m up to ! roots1 & turn ! end ( ea* roll] firmly 9 to keep !m tight1 rememb]+ at ! same "t ! hair %\ld nev] be comb$ at night1 hav+ always s bad an effect z to give a viol5t heada*e next day4 ,aft] ! curls are roll$ up1 t\* !m ) y\r pomatumy h&s1 & /roke ! hair beh9d2 aft] t take a v l>ge net fillet1 :i* mu/ be big en\gh to cov] ! head & hair1 & put x on1 & draw+ ! /r+s to a prop] tightness beh9d1 till x closes all r\nd ! face & neck l a purse1 br+ ! /r+s r\nd ! front & back aga9 to ! neck1 :]e !y mu/ be ti$2 ?is1 ) ! f9e/ lawn h&k]*ief1 is night cov]+ suffici5t = ! head4 ,heads usually la/$ a matt] ( ?ree weeks1 :5--'tw\ld be dang]\s1 madam1 to delay long] ! op5+ ( y\r head4 ,we get a glimpse ( ! possible /ate ( a lady's head at ! expiration ( t "t f ! _m recipes & adv]tisem5ts = ! de/ruction ( insects 9 ! magaz9es ( ! p]iod1 :i* rem9ds u ( ,julian1 :o lik5$ 8 be>d to a =e/ gr[n popul\s ) tr\blesome little animals4 ,/ill to be neat1 /ill to be dre/1 ,z y 7 go+ to a fea/2 ,/ill to be p[d]$1 /ill p]fum$3 ,lady1 x is to be presum$1 ,?\gh art's hid causes are n f\nd1 ,all is n sweet1 all is n s\nd4 ,give me a look1 give me a face1 ,t makes simplicity a grace2 ,robes loosely fl[+1 hair z free3 ,su* sweet neglect m take? me1 ,?an all ! adult]ies ( art2 ,!y /rike m9e eyes1 b n m9e he>t4 ,,b5 ,,jonson1 ,! ,sil5t ,woman4 ,! ape+ by ! tradespeople ( ! mann]s ( ! great is amus+ly told 9 ! ,lady's ,magaz9e = ,augu/1 #aghb1 9 ! =m ( a lett] to ! editor1 purport+ to be f a respectable gre5groc]1 :o signs himself ,arti*oke ,pulse4 ,he says3 ,i wi% to ,god y w\ld write some?+ sm>t aga9/ fa%ion4 ,my family is almo/ ru9$ by ! article ( dress4 ,x appe>$ t 8 son ,tom _h work$ himself into a g5tleman's family z footman1 & f ?is circum/ance 8 tr\bles began4 ,y c sc>cely conceive1 my de> ,sir1 :at an alt]ation ?is acqua9tance ) ! great family has made4 ,sally1 my elde/ daught]1 talks ( ta/e & ! mode1 aye fai?1 & ! dresses too4 ,i w give y a description ( h] go+ to see ! new com$y ( ! ',ea/ ,indian' ! o!r night1 9 company ) h] bro!rs & si/]s1 & a "l's footman1 :o pres5t$ !m ) ord]s = ! two-%ill+ gall]y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,l\is ,,xvi41 ,,m>ie ,,anto9ette1 ,,& ,,! ,,dauph94 ,engrav$ by ,augu/9 de ,/4 ,aub94 ,dick ,du/y1 ! hairdress]'s appr5tice1 :o lives 9 a c\rt ne> u1 0 s5t = at two o'clock1 & two p\nd ( ,sangw9e's eightp5ny-halfp5ny p[d] be+ procur$1 ) a prop] quantity ( grease1 ! op]ation ( ! head 0 begun among ! cabbages1 lettuces1 turnips1 c>rots1 peas1 & beans t surr\nd$ u4 ,dick1 :o 0 b a novice at 8 bus9ess1 cut & sla%$ away until he _h left j z mu* hair z he c\ld conv5i5tly dress1 & !n1 hav+ work$ ! grease & ! fl\r into a k9d ( pa/e1 he plai/]$ ov] ! head1 us+ 8 h& z a tr[el1 until x 0 fairly encru/$ s z to hide ! col\r ( ! hair1 or to deceive ! eye into a belief t ! head 0 a pudd+ bag turn$ inside out6 ,z x 0 summ]1 my daught]s *ose to g )\t caps1 & an artificial b\quet 0 /uck 9 ! front ( ^? pudd+s4 ,! g[ns 7 silk2 b be+ pur*as$ at a pawnbrok]'s !y 7 n prop]ly cut = ! fa%ionable hoop4 ,hoops1 h[ev]1 7 to be wore1 & ev5 my wife resolv$ = once1 to figure away 9 "o ( ^? oval pieces ( nons5se4 4 4 4 4 4 ,p]haps 9 nature1 !re 0 nev] su* a figure6 ,only fa%ion to y\rself a gre5groc]'s wife issu+ f h] cell> 9 ,drury ,lane1 ) a mon/r\s hoop1 expos+ a pair ( legs1 ! ankles z ?ick z ! calf1 & ! calf z ?ick z ! mod]n wai/2 h] hair bepudd5$1 h] *eeks b$aub$ ) r$1 h] neck ( a crimson hue1 h] arms bur/+ ?r\gh a pair ( :ite gloves1 ! contra/ betwe5 ! two sk9s be+ almo/ ! v opposite to ea* o!r2 a ?ick-fl[]$ silk expos+ ! :ole front ( a quilt$ petticoat t once 0 :ite1 & !n y h ! appe>ance ( my wife6 ,h] daught]s made z ridicul\s a figure1 & ,w1 ,i d assure y1 0 n ! lea/ rem>kable 9 ! gr\p4 ,?is sally1 rec\nt+ ! woes ( ! hapless ,arti*oke1 provok$ an indignant reply f a *ampion ( ! wom51 :i* duly appe>$ 9 ! next numb]3-- ,i ?9k x high "t1 !n1 = e female to ex]t ! little k %e may be possess$ ( 9 ! scribbl+ l9e1 :5 ! wits1 "u ! *>act]s ( ,gre5 ,groc]s1 d>e to insult u1 & speak ( our hoops1 & o!r p>ts ( our dress1 z freely z !y ex]cise _! au?ority ov] ! o/l]s at a c\ntry inn4 ,! fav\r1 de> ,madam1 we wi% ( y1 is to remon/rate ) ^! sm>t g5tlem51 &1 ) u1 tell !m !y are incapable ( correct+ ! foibles 9 ! ladies' dresses1 till !y h e/abli%$ a crit]ion = _! own4 ,did !y adopt no o!r fa%ions ?an useful & becom+ ones1 !y might h "s solid reasons = repreh5d+ u2 b h[ is ?is to be done8 ,c !y po9t out ( :at use are ! high-cr[n$ hats1 _! %oes ti$ ) /r+s1 ! numb] ( buttons lately add$ to _! coats3 ( :at real s]vice t pond]osity ( _! wat*es & canes8 ,we w ev5 att5d to ! ,gre5 ,groc]1 if he c def5d !m1 & no long] despise ! op9ions ( ^? scrutators ( our dress2 b till !n we mu/ insi/ t ! hoop 7! batt]y at :i* mo/ ( _! pres5t artill]y is play$ (f aga9/71 :5 ( a mod]ate size1 is an addition to ! appe>ance ( a f9e woman2 x is a f9i%+ grace to _! p]sons1 & gives !m t dignity ( appe>ance t e woman 9 a g5teel l9e ( life has a "r to assume4 ,al?\gh ,k+s h (t5 va9ly endeav\r$ to impose _! w ^u ! p 9 ! matt] ( app>el x has (t5 happ5$ t mon>*s h set ! prevail+ fa%ion ( ! p]iod4 ,?is is especially noticeable 9 ! ,cavali]s ( ,*>les ,i41 numb]s ( :om adopt$ ! %ort1 po9t$ be>d & m\/a*ios & long hair ( _! ma/]1 9 /rik+ contra/ to ! close cropp$ & %av5 r\nd heads ( ! ,cromwellians4 ,x 0 s ) ! ,bonap>ti/s ( ! ,?ird ,empire1 :5 ! imp]ial became ! vogue4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,reign+ ,,mon>*4 ,at a /ill m rec5t p]iod1 ! illu/ri\s p]sonage :o is figur$ "h1 & :o1 be x kn[n1 appe>s "h /rictly incognito 7we w\ld fa9 escape ! dire consequ5ces ( lse-maje/71 has impos$ 8 imp]i\s w1 n only ^u 8 own c\ntrym51 b ^u ! _w at l>ge1 9 ! matt] ( ! turn$ up m\/a*io4 ,:5 y come to be trim$1 !y w aske y :e!r y w be cut to looke t]rible to y\r enimie1 or amiable to y\r fre5d1 grime & /]ne 9 c\nt5ance1 or pleasant & demure1--h[ _! m[*at[es mu/ be pres]v$ & laid out1 f "o *eke to ano!r1 yea1 almo/ f "o e>e to ano!r1 & turn$ up l two hornes t[>ds ! =ehead 7,/ubbes1 ,anatomy ( ,abuses1 #aehc74 ,illu/ration3 ,,philip ,,iv4 ,,( ,,spa94 ,! angle at :i* x is po9t$ provides an index z to "*1 & ( ! degree ( pugnacity ( ! we>]4 ,at an angle (1 say1 #de degrees =w>d we may expect to see its own] ent] a cr[d$ omnibus ) ! po9t ( 8 umbrella held at ! same angle1 or z a soldi] makes ready to pres5t arms4 ,9 ! dress+ ( ! hair1 z 9 co/ume g5]ally1 ! l[e/ dep? ( ! commonplace has be5 rea*$ dur+ ! n9ete5? c5tury4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 extremely dang]\s to indulge 9 any k9d ( sweep+ g5]alities ) respect to our own epo*2 we are ei!r1 f long habit & cu/om1 prejudic$ 9 fav\r ( a p>ticul> rgime1 or we are afflict$ ) t contempt :i* is born ( a too great famili>ity4 ,! *ignon1 9 its _m developm5ts1 is )9 ! memory ( mo/ ( u2 ! odi\s ,piccadilly fr+e /ill endures ) ^? p]sons :o are ei!r slaves to habit or :o f9d t ! curl+ & frizz+ ( ! hair ( ! =ehead de/roys its capacity = gr[?4 ,dundre>y & mutton-*op :isk]s are ev5 n[ to be f\nd 9 out-(-!-way c\ntry places4 ,goldsmi?1 9 "o ( 8 delightful essays1 tells a /ory ( a travell] :o1 on 8 way to ,italy1 f\nd himself 9 a c\ntry :]e ! inhabitants _h ea* a l>ge excresc5ce dep5d+ f ! *9--a de=mity :i*1 z x 0 endemic & ! p little us$ to /rang]s1 x _h be5 ! cu/om1 "t immemorial1 to look ^u z ! greate/ beauty4 ,ladies grew toa/s f ! size ( _! *9s1 & no m5 7 beaux ^: faces 7 n broade/ at ! bottom4 ,x 0 ,sunday2 a c\ntry *ur* 0 at h&1 & our travell] 0 will+ to p]=m ! duties ( ! day4 ,^u 8 fir/ appe>ance at ! *ur* door ! eyes ( all 7 fix$ ^u ! /rang]2 b :at 0 _! amazem5t :5 !y f\nd t he actually want$ t emblem ( beauty1 a purs$ *96 ,/ifl$ bur/s ( laught]1 w9ks1 & :isp]s circulat$ f visage to visage2 ! prismatic figure ( ! /rang]'s face 0 a fund ( inf9ite gaiety4 ,our travell] c\ld no long] pati5tly cont9ue an object ( de=mity to po9t at4 ,good folks1 said he1 ,i p]ceive t ,i am a v ridicul\s figure "h1 b ,i assure y ,i am reckon$ no way de=m$ at home4 ,"l ,dundre>y w\ld h be5 impossible 9 any o!r epo* ?an ! ,victorian1 al?\gh ! ,dundre>y :isk] is b a glorifi$ developm5t ( e>li] =ms-- ,a m>*aunt 0 !r ) a =k$ b]d1 ,9 motteleye high on horse he sat4 ,cant]bury ,tales4 ,dundre>y1 ) 8 /rip$ peg-tops1 8 eyeglass1 & 8 drawl1 exactly fitt$ 8 environm5t4 ,8 :isk]s repres5t ! v anti!sis ( ! ,piccadilly fr+e1 also happily gone1 or relegat$ to ! co/] frat]nity1 toge!r ) ! bell-bottom$ tr\s] ) :i* x is 9 s+ul> aff9ity4 ,! ,piccadilly fr+e 0 p]si/5tly condemn$ by arti/s1 notably ,mr4 ,g4 ,f4 ,watts1 :o po9t$ out t x obscur$ & de/roy$ ! beautiful way 9 :i* ! hair spr+s f ! =ehead4 ,mr4 ,watts1 h[ev]1 0 n ! fir/ to w>n ! ladies aga9/ ! s9 ( cropp+ %ort & pull+ out ! hair ( ! =ehead4 ,if !re %\ld1 p]adv5ture1 be any fair read]s :o are enam\r$ ( ! beauties ( ei!r ! ,piccadilly or o!r fr+e1 or :o %\ld be smitt5 ) ! insane desire to pop1 pa9t1 or p[d] ! face1 let !m li/5 to ! s\nd advice & good c\nsel :i* ! ,knight ( ,la ,t\r ,l&ry gave to 8 daught]s1 & to ! t]rible ensaumples :i* he held up to !m = _! consid]ation & avoidance3 ,alas6 he exclaims1 :i take wom5 non h$e ( ! gret love t ,god ha! yeve hem to make hem aft] hys figure8 & :i popi! !y1 & pa9ti!1 & plucki! h] visage o!rwise ?an ,god ha? orde9$ hem8 ,:y inde$6 ,!re 0 once a lady :o di$ & suff]$ great tortures 9 hell1 ! devil hold+ h] bi ! tresses ( ! "h ( h] h$e1 l z a lyon holdi! 8 praie4444 & ! same develle putte & ?ru/e 9 h] br[es1 temples1 & =eh$e hote br5n+e alles & n$eles2 & :y 0 %e subject$ to all ?is torm5t8 ,because %e _h pluck$ h] br[es1 front & =eh$1 to h awey ! "h1 to make h] selff ! fayr] to ! ples+e ( ! worlde4 ,x is a v f> cry f ! good ,knight ( ,la ,t\r ,l&ry to ! wick$ ,mr4 ,pun* ( ,fleet ,/reet1 :o satirises ! v>iations 9 ! =m ( ! %ort side :isk] /ill belov$ ( butl]s & o/l]s1 & :i*1 9 ! e>ly days ( ! ,volunte] movem5t ( ! beg9n+ ( ! sixties1 became id5tifi$ ) p>ticul> regim5ts or companies3-- ,,hairdress]3 ,s\? ,middlesex or ,keve5s1 sir8 7,cu/om] looks bewild]$47 ,:y1 sir1 _m corpses1 sir1 'z a rekignis$ /yle ( 'air1 sir1 accord9' to ! ,reg---- 7,cu/om] /orms47 ,n a wolunte]1 sir8--,jus' s1 sir4 ,?\ght n1 sir2 lea/ways ,i 0 a-wond]9' to myself d'rectly ,i see y1 :at corpse y c\ld a belong$ to1 sir4 ,,footnotes3 #bc ,william ( ,malmesbury4 #bd #b ,sam4 xiv4 #be1 #bf4 #be ,phisicke is good1 & yet ,i w\ld wi% t e ignorant d\lt1 & especially wom51 t h z mu* k 9 phisick or surg]y z ha? jackeanapes1 be+ b smatt]]s 9 ! same noble sci5ces1 %\ld be re/ra9$ f ! publike use !r( unless !y d x gratis 7,/ubbes1 ,anatomy ( ,abuses1 #aehc74 #bf ,! fillet :i* encircles ! b>b]'s pole indicates ! ribbon us$ = b&ag+ ! arm 9 ble$+1 & ! bas9 ! vessel to receive ! blood4 #bg ,he speaks l a lady = all ! _w1 & nev] swe>s1 z ,mr4 ,fla% does1 b we>s nice :ite gloves1 & tells me :at rib&s become my complexion1 :]e to /ick my pat*es1 :o is ! be/ mill9]1 :]e !y sell ! be/ tea1 & :i* is ! be/ wa% = ! face & ! be/ pa/e = ! h&s2 he is always play+ ) my fan1 & %[+ 8 tee?2 & :5 ev] ,i speak1 he pats me--s--& cries1 ',! devil take me1 ,miss ,biddy1 b y'll be my p]dition--ha1 ha1 ha6' 7,david ,g>rick1 ,miss 9 ,h] ,te5s1 #agdg74 ,x ,,boots1 ,,%oes1 ,,& ,,o!r ,,cov]+s ,,= ,,! ,,feet ',:o is !re 9 ! h\se8' said ,sam1 9 ^: m9d ! inmates 7 always repres5t$ by t p>ticul> article ( _! co/ume :i* came "u 8 imm$iate sup]9t5d5ce4 ',!re's a wood5 leg 9 numb] six2 !re's a pair ( ,hessians 9 ?irte52 !re's two pair ( halves 9 ! comm]cial2 !re's ^! "h pa9t$ tops 9 ! snugg]y inside ! b>2 & five m tops 9 ! c(fee-room4' ',no?+ m8' said ! little man4 ',/op a bit1' repli$ ,sam1 sudd5ly recollect+ himself4 ',yes2 !re's a pair ( ,well+tons a good deal worn1 & a pair o' lady's %oes 9 numb] five4' ',:at sort ( %oes8' ha/ily inquir$ ,w>dle1 :o1 toge!r ) ,mr4 ,pickwick1 _h be5 lo/ 9 bewild]m5t at ! s+ul> catalogue ( visitors4 ',c\ntry make1' repli$ ,sam4 ',any mak]'s "n8' ',br[n4' ',:]e (8' ',muggleton4' ',x is !m6' exclaim$ ,w>dle4 ',by ,heav51 we've f\nd !m4' ,po/hum\s ,pap]s ( ! ,pickwick ,club4 ,illu/ration3 ,,flemi% 7,,eighte5? ,,c5tury74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fr5* 7,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury74 ,x ,,boots1 ,,%oes1 ,,& ,,o!r ,,cov]+s ,,= ,,! ,,feet ,! good ,/4 ,crisp91 ( bless$ memory1 cobbl+ %oes = ! poor by ! light ( 8 c&le & fill+ up ! int]val ) prea*+1 is a figure :i* all %oemak]s reg>d ) rev]5ce4 ,h[ did ,crisp9 become ! tutel>y sa9t ( %oemak]s8 ,well1 x 0 9 ?is wise4 ,crisp91 travell+ ) 8 bro!r ,crisp9ian1 9 company ) ,/4 ,d5is1 to ,soissons 9 ,france to propagate ! ,*ri/ian fai?1 t[>ds ! close ( ! ?ird c5tury1 9 ord] t he might n be a burd5 to o!rs = 8 ma9t5ance1 ex]cis$ at night ! trade ( %oemak]1 prea*+ ! ,gospel by day4 ,! %oes 7 sold at a l[ price to ! poor1 an angel 7s ! leg5d rec\nts7 miracul\sly furni%+ ! lea!r4 ,accord+ to ano!r v]sion ( ! leg5d1 ! sa9t /ole ! lea!r1 s z to enable him to b5efit ! poor4 ,crisp9's ef=ts1 l ^? ( s _m o!r b5efactors ( _! k9d1 7 poorly rew>d$4 ,he 0 ord]$ to be behead$1 & suff]$ m>tyrdom 9 #bhg ,a4,d41 n1 h[ev]1 = 8 %oemak+1 or = 8 !fts1 b on acc\nt ( 8 religi\s t5ets4 ,"s acc\nts /ate t he & 8 bro!r 7 flung into a cauldron ( molt5 lead4 ,illu/ration3 ,,clog1 ,,or ,,patt54 ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury4 ,! bro!rhood ( ! %oemak]s has always includ$ m5 ( rem>kable "* & p>ts4 ,hans ,sa*s1 born at ,nuremburg 9 #adid1 ! mo/ em95t ,g]man poet ( 8 "t2 ,george ,fox1 fir/ ( ,quak]s1 true foll[] ( ,crisp91 divid+ 8 "t & en]gies betwe5 %oemak+ & prea*+2 ,william ,gif=d1 less rememb]$ p]haps z a %oemak] ?an = 8 editor%ip ( ! fam\s ,qu>t]ly--^! are a few only ( ! m5 :o h imp>t$ a glory to ! 'g5tle craft1' z %oemak+ has be5 call$ s9ce ! days ( ! illu/ri\s ,crisp91 & inve/$ x ) di/9ction4#bh ,! univ]sal obs]vance by ,ea/]n nations ( ! cu/om ( remov+ ! %oes z a m>k ( rev]5ce is 9 ob$i5ce to ! comm& giv5 to ,moses f ! burn+ bu% at ,horeb3 ,put (f ?y %oes f (f ?y feet1 = ! place :]eon ?\ /&e/ is holy gr\nd4 ,! ,we/]n practice ( uncov]+ ! rev]se end ( ! human anatomy pres5ts a curi\s & some:at />tl+ contra/4 ,footge> began z a protection to ! soles ( ! feet1 s9ce x is ! soles :i* necess>ily dem& "s sort ( protection until t "t :5 ! r\gh places %all be made pla91 al?\gh ,nature provides h] own protection to ! soles ( feet :i* are habitually b>e1 by ?ick5+ ! sk94 ,! sk9 ( ! habitually b>efoot$ ,iri% lassie v>ies1 we are told1 f a qu>t] to half an in* 9 ?ickness1 & ev5 m4 ,! s&al1 !n1 may be consid]$ z ! precursor ( ! %oe4 ,mo/ ( ! e>ly nations wore s&als4 ,! ,egyptians1 h[ev]1 7 usually b>efoot$1 ) ! exception ( ! prie/s1 :o wore %oes ( byblus1 & 7 n p]mitt$ to we> any o!r4 ,! ,greek s&al consi/$ ( a /rip ( ?ick hide1 tann$ or untann$1 = ! sole1 ) a ?9n] piece1 assum+ "s ornam5tal =m1 ^u ! in/ep1 ! :ole connect$ or drawn toge!r ) /raps drawn crosswise ov] ! in/ep & r\nd ! ankle1 or a cord or ?ong pass+ betwe5 ! great toe & ! fir/ ( ! small] toes4 ,s&als 7 worn ei!r ) b>e feet or ) /ock+s or hose1 9 :i* case a division ( ! /ock+ w\ld be necess>y betwe5 ! great & little toes4 ,"s mod]n hygi5ic re=m]s h1 inde$1 recomm5d$ to$ /ock+s = pres5t use1 i4e41 /ock+s provid$ ) a sep>ate receptacle = ea* toe1 l ! f+]s ( a glove1 to be worn ev5 ) ! mod]n %oe or boot1 on ! gr\nd ( heal?9ess1 & ?is w\ld seem to be reasonable1 s9ce ! objectionable condition ( ! sk9 betwe5 ! toes1 :i* no am\nt ( cleanl9ess & c>e c :olly av]t1 is due to ! inability ( ! p]spiration to escape :5 ! surfaces are 9 contact4 ,! int]position 9 ! five-to$ socks ( a lay] ( wooll5 or o!r mat]ial betwe5 ea* toe absorbs ! p]spiration & rapidly effects a rem>kable *ange4 ,! sk9 betwe5 ! toes becomes dry & :olesome1 & ! squeez$1 crippl$ appe>ance ( ! toes greatly alt]s = ! bett]4#bi ,bo? ! ,greeks & ,romans wore busk9s1 :i* rea*$ to ab\t ! middle ( ! calf4 ,^! 7 v>i\sly ornam5t$ & lac$1 & 7 usually l9$ ) ! sk9s ( ! small] animals1 ! heads & claws be+ all[$ to fall ov] ! top by way ( ornam5t4 ,busk9s h1 z a matt] ( fact1 be5 worn at all p]iods2 sev]al examples are giv51 notably 9 ! portraits by ,v&yke1 ( ,lords ,john & ,b]n>d ,/u>t 7p4 #bhg74 ,illu/ration3 ,,roman ,,s&als4 ,hope's ,co/ume ( ! ,anci5ts4 ,! footge> ( ! ,italian peasant ( ! pres5t day may be consid]$ z ! mo/ primitive =m ( s&al4 ,x consi/s ( a simple oblong piece ( ?ick lea!r1 p]=at$ at ! sides & ends to all[ ( /raps be+ drawn ?r\gh1 crosswise ov] ! in/ep & r\nd ! ankle1 & half way up ! leg1 to ! knee1 ei!r 9 circul> b&s or crosswise1 ! foot & leg be+ encas$ 9 a m or less loose /ock+ or hose1 9 _m in/ances ! :ole ( ! leg be+ cross g>t]$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,s&als ,,( ,,! ,,italian ,,peasantry4 ,! e>ly ,britons wore a %oe :i* 0 almo/ z simple 9 con/ruction z ! la/ m5tion$4 ,x consi/$ ( a piece ( raw c[hide1 ) a lea!r ?ong fa/5$ at ! heel1 ?read$ along ! upp] edge1 draw+ ! %oe l a purse ov] ! foot4 ,?is =m ( %oe1 h[ev]1 0 n conf9$ to ! e>ly ,britons1 b 0 adopt$ by mo/ primitive peoples at diff]5t p]iods2 9 fact1 x is ! fir/ & readie/ me?od ( cov]+ ! feet :i* w\ld occur to ! primitive m9d4 ,illu/ration3 ,,lords ,,john ,,& ,,b]n>d ,,/u>t4 ,engrav$ by ,james ,mac>dell4 ,! ,anglo-,saxon %oe 0 provid$ ) long ?ongs ( lea!r or o!r mat]ial atta*$ to ! %oe at ! ankles & w\nd crosswise r\nd ! leg to ! knee1 or r\nd ! :ole ( ! leg to ! middle1 always1 h[ev]1 ) "s =m ( hose4 ,?is fa%ion obta9$1 m or less1 dur+ ! :ole ( ! ,anglo-,saxon p]iod1 & 0 common to mo/ ( ! ,nor!rn nations4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ,william ! ,conqu]or1 %ort boots rea*+ above ! ankle1 ) a pla9 b& r\nd ! tops1 prevail$4 ,rob]t1 ,duke ( ,norm&y1 elde/ son ( ! ,conqu]or1 :o di$ 9 #aacd1 0 call$ ,curta ,ocrea1 or ,%ort ,boots1 ei!r f 8 sett+ ! fa%ion or f reta9+ x :5 ab&on$ by ! beaux ( ! day4 ,! usual footge> ( ! p]iod1 h[ev]1 is ! close %oe1 made ( clo?1 velvet1 lea!r1 or o!r mat]ial1 & t]m9at+ 9 a po9t4 ,f ?is p]iod = m ?an a c5tury onw>d1 %oes v>i$ v little1 except 9 ! "* ( _! ornam5tation4 ,dur+ ! reigns ( ,h5ry ,,ii4 & ,ri*>d ,i41 a k9d ( loose top-boot appe>$4 ,^! boots resembl$ loose socks or galo*es1 drawn ov] ! hose1 sometimes rea*+ z high z ! knee1 & occasionally to ! middle ( ! ?igh1 b m (t5 half way up ! leg only4 ,!y 7 worn 9 v>i\s =ms by all classes1 & by ! common p dur+ a long p]iod4 ,!y _h no fa/5+s or lac+s1 b 7 all[$ to fall at w1 accord+ to ! /iffness or o!rwise ( ! mat]ial ( :i* !y 7 made4 ,9 ! m9iatures ( ! ,facta et ,dicta ,memorabilia ( ,val]ius ,maximus1 begun by ,simon de ,hesd9 = ,*>les ,v4 ( ,france 9 #acge1 & complet$ by ,ni*olas de ,gonesse = ,jean1 ,duc de ,b]ry1 9 #adje1 a numb] ( figures h boots1 made app>5tly ( s(t lea!r & col\r$ ei!r r$ or :ite1 rea*+ to ! knee2 9 "s in/ances ! tops turn$ d[n1 ) long1 po9t$ toes4 ,?is s]ies ( m9iatures is extremely int]e/+ z giv+ an insight into ! dome/ic life ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 "s ( ! int]iors be+ especially s4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ! ,plantag5ets1 footge>1 l ! re/ ( ! co/ume ( t p]iod1 0 exce$+ly sumptu\s4 ,! %oes 7 usually close-fitt+1 ) po9t$ toes1 & ornam5t$ ) ! ri*e/ v>iety ( patt]n+4 ,! tops 7 ( v>i\s mat]ials1 s(t lea!r1 silk1 clo?1 clo?-(-gold1 c4 ,! soles 7 usually ( ?ick] lea!r1 b occasionally ( wood1 & ev5 ( cork4 ,^u ! op5+ ( ! tomb ( ,h5ry ,,vi4 ( ,sicily1 ! dead mon>* 0 discov]$ we>+ %oes ( :i* ! upp]s 7 ( clo?-(-gold embroid]$ ) pe>ls1 & ! soles ( cork1 cov]$ ) clo?-(-gold4 ,! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 0 ! p]iod ( abnormally long po9t$ toes1 :i* occasionally rea*$ ! l5g? ( six in*es & m1 & assum$ v>i\s %apes1 ! toes be+ /uff$ ) t[ or o!r sub/ance to keep !m 9 %ape4 ,?is fa%ion ( long po9t$ toes la/$ dur+ ! ?ree succe$+ reigns4 ,ev5 boys wore d\blets ( silk1 sat91 & velvet2 & almo/ all1 especially 9 ! ,c\rts ( ,pr9ces1 _h po9ts at ! toes ( _! %oes a qu>t] ( an ell long & upw>ds1 :i* !y n[ call$ p\la9es4 ,p>ad9 describes ! m5 z we>+ %oes ) a po9t be=e1 half a foot long3 ! ri*] & m em95t p]sonages m ?an a foot1 & ,pr9ces two feet long1 :i* 0 ! mo/ ridicul\s ?+ t ev] 0 se52 & :5 m5 became tir$ ( ^! po9t$ %oes1 !y adopt$ o!rs 9 _! /ead d5om9at$ duck-bills1 hav+ a bill or beak be=e1 ( f\r or five f+]s 9 l5g?4 ,! sumptu>y laws regulat+ ^! matt]s h be5 ref]r$ to 9 ! introduction to ?is "w4 ,! ,act ( #c ,edw>d ,,iv4 re/rict$ ! l5g? ( toe to two in*es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fr5*4 ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury4 ,,fr5*4 ,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury4 ,clogs & patt5s 7 worn f ! "t ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 onw>ds z a protection to ! soles ( ! %oes1 & 7 v>i\sly %ap$4 ,r&al ,holme calls pattanes irons to be ti$ "u ! %oes to keep !m out ( ! dirt4 ,9 an anonym\s "w call$ ! ,eulogium1 cit$ by ,camd51 x /ates3 ,_! %oes & patt5s are sn\t$ & pik$1 m ?an a f+] long1 crook+ upw>ds1 :i* !y call crack[es1 resembl+ devils' claws1 & fa/5$ to ! knees ) *a9s ( gold & silv]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,*ild',s ,,%oes1 ,,front ,,& ,,side ,,view1 ,,g]man 7,,sixte5? ,,c5tury74 ,,man',s ,,%oe1 ,,g]man 7,,sixte5? ,,c5tury74 ,?is fa%ion ( app5d+ *a9s to ! peaks ( ! %oes la/$ int]mitt5tly = a consid]able "t4 ,9 a "w on ,anci5t ,co/ume1 by ,major ,hamilton ,smi?1 a portrait ( ,james ,i4 ( ,scotl& is m5tion$1 9 :i* ! peaks ( ! mon>*'s %oes are fa/5$ by *a9s ( gold to 8 girdle4 ,!re is a manuscript 9 ! ,royal collection 9 :i* ! ,duke ( ,gl\ce/]1 aft]w>ds ,ri*>d ,,iii41 is depict$ z we>+ a clog4 ,?is has be5 adopt$ by ,abbey 9 8 fam\s picture ( ,gl\ce/] & ! ,lady ,anne4 ,clogs 7 ( wood1 ?ick5$ at ! heel & ball ( ! foot = ! purpose ( rais+ x f ! gr\nd4 ,aft]w>ds x 0 fur!r rais$ by means ( two pieces set at "r angles to ! foot1 on precisely ! same pr9ciple z ! ,japanese %oes ( to-day4 ,an illu/ration is giv5 f ! ,cluny ,museum 7p4 #bhb74 ,ano!r means ( rais+ ! foot 0 ! *op9e1 :i* 0 a k9d ( /ilt2 x 01 9 fact1 ! sole1 elongat$ to an extravagant degree4 ,hamlet ?us addresses ! lady play]s3 ,:at6 my "y lady & mi/ress6 ,by'r-lady1 y\r lady%ip is ne>] heav5 ?an :5 ,i saw y la/1 by ! altitude ( a *op9e6 ,t[>ds ! close ( ! fifte5? c5tury x became ! fa%ion to b5d ! long toe ov] ! %oe backw>ds4 ,! two examples figur$ at ! head ( ?is *at are f ! ,cluny ,museum1 & are *>act]i/ic4 ,bo? h high heels1 & resemble ! %oes ) :i* ! ,*9ese ladies until q rec5tly tortur$ & mutilat$ _! feet1 = ! purpose1 x is said1 ( pleas+ ! di/ort$ fancy ( ! m5 & to be qualifi$ = m>riage4#cj ,illu/ration3 ,,%oes ,,( ,,! ,,sixte5? ,,& ,,sev5te5? ,,c5turies4 ,muse de ,cluny4 ,a numb] ( examples ( %oes ( ! fifte5?1 sixte5?1 & sev5te5? c5turies are giv5 f ! int]e/+ collection 9 ! ,muse de ,cluny1 & w s]ve1 f> bett] ?an any writt5 description1 to give an idea ( ! "* ( ! footge> ( ^! p]iods4 ,! two *ild's %oes giv5 on p4 #bia are ( lea!r1 & are typical ( ! %oe worn dur+ ! great] "p ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,! side view %[s ! po9t turn$ upw>ds4 ,! man's %oe is %ort-to$1 ri*ly work$ 9 /amp$ lea!r4 ,! ladies' %oes ( ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies giv5 on p4 #bic are ( v>i\s mat]ials1 & = ! mo/ "p ri*ly embroid]$2 two ( ! ?ree l[] ones %[ ! clog ( lea!r :i* 0 fix$ f ! heel to ! toe1 ! c5tre "o ( ! ?ree hav+ a %>p po9t$ heel & a r\nd$ sole1 surely a mo/ uncom=table ?+ to we>4 ,sir ,?omas ,p>k9s 7,treatise on ,wre/l+1 #agad7 says3 ,= %ame1 let u leave (f aim+ at ! outdo+ our ,mak] 9 our true symmetry & proportion2 let u likewise1 = our own ease1 secure tread+ & upright walk+1 z ,he design$ we %\ld1 & %ort5 our heels4 ,illu/ration3 ,,c>v$ ,,wood5 ,,%oe1 ,,fr5* 7,,sev5te5? ,,c5tury74 ,dur+ ! reign ( ! ,tudors ! "* ( ! %oe sudd5ly *ang$ f ! long po9t$ toe to ! broad-to$ %oe1 made ei!r ( v>i\s clo?s1 kid1 or velvet1 sla%$ & puff$ ) silk1 an example ( :i* w be se5 9 ,holbe9's picture ( ! ,two ,ambassadors4 ,! %oes ( ?is p]iod af=d a m9imum ( protection to ! feet1 ! :ole ( ! in/ep be+ uncov]$4 ,x 0 aga9 f\nd necess>y = legislation to /ep 9--?is "t1 h[ev]1 to re/rict _! bread?1 in/ead ( ! l5g? ( ! toes1 z h]et(ore4 ,bulw]'s ,p$igree ( ! ,engli% ,gallant says3 ,9 ! reign ( ,que5 ,m>y1 ! p 9 g5]al _h laid aside ! long po9ts !y =m]ly wore at ! end ( _! %oes1 & caus$ !m to be made squ>e at ! toes1 ) s mu* addition to ! bread?1 t _! feet exhibit$ a mu* m prepo/]\s appe>ance ?an !y _h done 9 ! =m] in/ance2 !re=e1 says ! au?or1 a proclamation 0 made1 t no man %\ld we> 8 %oes above six in*es squ>e at ! toes4 ,he !n tells u t pick$ %oes soon aft] came aga9 9 vogue1 b !y did n1 ,i presume1 cont9ue any great "t 9 use4 ,9 ! figure ( ! exquisite ( #afgj1 aft] ,mitelli 7p4 #abi71 ! squ>5ess ( ! toes is emphasis$1 ! two corn]s ev5 project+ f ! flat edge4 ,!re are small bun*es ( ribbons at ! toes1 an abnormally l>ge /iff5$ b[ at ! in/ep1 &1 by way ( pil+ ,pelion ^u ,ossa1 ! b5d ( ! /iff5$ b[s is supplem5t$ by small] b[s1 repres5t+ ! v acme ( :imsical extravagance4 ,usually ^! b[s or ribbons 7 all[$ to fall loose1 9 :i* case1 h[ev]1 !y nev] rea*$ su* extravagant proportions z 9 ! be=e-m5tion$ in/ance4 ,a squ>e-to$ %oe ( a ,dut* (fic] ( ! ,gu>ds1 #affb1 is giv51 hav+ a loose b[1 also a %oe ( a muskete] ) a small buckle on ! in/ep & a l>ge tongue or flap 9 front4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dut* ,,(fic] ,,( ,,gu>ds1 #affb4 ,buckles h be5 worn f q an e>ly p]iod1 an example ( a circul> buckle occurr+ on a brass ( #acgf4 ,!y =m$ ! usual fa/5+ ( ! %oe dur+ ! ,commonweal?1 & 7 worn until ! close ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 :5 !y fell into disuse4 ,! buckle-mak]s ( #ahjj1 al>m$ at _! decl9+ trade1 petition$ ! ,pr9ce ( ,wales to disc>d 8 new /r+s & adopt ! buckle1 b1 al?\gh ! ,pr9ce compli$ ) ! wi%es ( ! petition1 x 0 ( no avail4 ,buckles 7 (t5 ri*ly jewell$1 & consequ5tly v co/ly4 ,^? worn by ! ,hon4 ,john ,sp5c] on ! occasion ( 8 m>riage 7 said to be wor? #cj1jjj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,m\squetaire1 #afig4 ,9 ! anonym\s portrait ( ,pr9ce ,h5ry1 elde/ son ( ,james ,i4 7p4 #ajc71 ! %oes are ( lea!r1 sla%$1 %[+ ! col\r$ /ock+ und]nea?1 & o!rwise ornam5t$1 ) ! /rap drawn ov] ! in/ep1 cov]$ by a jewell$ rosette1 or %oe-rose4 ,^! %oe-roses _h a great vogue dur+ ! "t ( ,elizabe?2 !y 7 usually ( bun*es ( ribbons made to =m a rose1 & 7 occasionally ornam5t$ ) co/ly jewels4 ,) two ,prov5cal roses on my raz$ %oes4 ,hamlet1 ,act ,,iii1 sc4 #b4 ,9 ,hc-,vir1 or ! ,womani% ,man1 #afba1 is describ$ a fa%ionable man1 :o takes a full survey ( himself1 f ! highe/ sprig 9 8 fea!r to ! l[e/ spangle t %9es 9 8 %oe-/r+4 ,we n[ come to ! p]iod ( high-topp$ boots1 :i* cont9u$ ) v>iations to ! "t ( ,george ,,ii4 ,9 ! portrait ( ,*>les ,i4 by ,daniel ,myt5s 9 ! ,national ,portrait ,gall]y w be se5 an example ( ! e>li] =m ( top-boot4 ,! tops fit close1 & are turn$ d[n at ! knee1 & ! edges aga9 turn$ up half-way d[n ! calf ( ! leg4 ,a l>ge flap ) d\ble edges protects ! in/ep4 ,illu/ration3 ,,l\is ,,xiii41 #afaa4 ,! =m ( top-boots 0 develop$ 9 v>i\s ways1 until x rea*$ an extravagant pit* 9 ,france 9 ! reign ( ,l\is ,,xiv4 ,! v>iations 7 ma9ly 9 ! %ape or adju/m5t ( ! tops1 r ?an 9 t portion ( ! boot :i* cov]$ ! foot4 ,!y 7 worn by ! d&ies ) a pr(usion ( co/ly lace4 ,sev]al examples are giv54 ,?is 0 ! p]iod ( ! highe/1 or r wide/1 developm5t ( ! tops ( ! boots2 s wide1 inde$1 did !y become1 t ! gait ( a man might be describ$ z /raddl+ r ?an walk+4 ,an example is giv5 ( a boot worn by ! ,comte de ,soissons1 #afbh1 :i* has a /iff r\nd$ top l a bas91 ) a %ort hose worn ov] ! hose prop]1 turn$ d[n bel[ ! knee & edg$ ) ri* lace4 ,a v>iation ( ! top-boot worn f ! "t ( ,elizabe? onw>ds is a k9d ( s(t lea!r hose or busk9 drawn up to ! middle ( ! ?igh1 ! edge fold$ ov] & sla%$2 ^! 7 worn dur+ ! sla%$ p]iod1 :5 ev]y?+ 0 sla%$--hat1 sleeves1 d\blet1 & tunic 7p4 #big74 ,illu/ration3 ,,comte ,,de ,,soissons1 #afbh4 ,! ,well+ton boot ( ! pres5t day is practically id5tical ) t worn by ! illu/ri\s soldi] f :om x takes its "n1 & is a v slight v>iation ( ! =m ( rid+ boot :i* 0 9 use at ! beg9n+ ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 except t x is ( s(t] lea!r1 all[+ ! boot to fall into folds at ! ankle4 ,! boot 9 ! portrait ( ,napoleon by ,isabey1 9 ! ,muse de ,v]sailles1 may be describ$ z a sort ( half ,well+ton1 b ! top-boot :i* is usually associat$ ) ,napoleon is cut away at its upp] edge at ! back1 ! front =m+ a k9d ( mask to ! knee1 a =m ( boot :i*1 9 fact1 _h be5 worn f ! "t ( ,william ,,iii4 ,illu/ration3 ,,bravoes4 ,m>t9 ,s*ongau]4 ,clo? & wooll5 boots & %oes1 z 7 worn 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 h be5 recomm5d$ = mod]n we> z be+ m heal?y1 & z all[+ ! natural p]spiration ( ! foot to exhale1 _! sponsors affirm+ t clo? & wool are p]fectly suitable & safe = wet wea!r1 z ! wett+ ( ! wool does n *ill ! feet1 ! heat ( :i* promptly evaporates ! moi/ure f ! cov]+1 :i* soon dries4 ,x mu/1 h[ev]1 be admitt$ t ) a clo? cov]+1 ! dirt & mud ( a ,london w9t] w\ld be a trial1 & "h1 d\btless1 we h a reason = ! cobble/ones ( m$ival t[ns4 ,cobble-/ones are clean1 b mu/ at once be rul$ out ( ! "q = ,london4 ,cobble-/ones w\ld inde$ add a fre% horror to ,london life4 ,b is x too mu* to expect ! ri*e/ city 9 ! _w1 ) its ?\s&s ( unemploy$1 to keep its /reets clean8 ,is !re any reason :y l>ge cities %\ld n be kept clean z well z small cities8 ,boots & %oes %\ld be roomy1 to prev5t ! toes f be+ squeez$ toge!r1 & %\ld be s made t ! great toe is n press$ aga9/ its neighb\rs1 b is enc\rag$ to lie 9 a /raight l9e drawn f ! heel to ! root ( ! great toe4 ,! heel ( ! boot %\ld be l[ & broad4#ca ,! ,greek ideal ( ! foot is ! true "o4 ,! ,greeks rightly reg>d$ ! foot z an undevelop$ h&1 & !y endeav\r$ 9 _! sculpture to imp>t t h&-l "* to _! feet4 ,"o has only to notice ! flexible toes ( new-born & "y babies1 9 ord] to p]ceive ! reasonabl5ess ( ?is position4 ,! ,greeks 9 _! sculpture made a di/9ct division betwe5 ! great toe & ! re/ ( ! toes1 z betwe5 ! ?umb & ! f+]s ( ! h&--! ?ree toes well =w>d 9 a bun*2 ! fir/ ! longe/1 ! next a little %ort]1 & ! ?ird %ort] /ill2 ! little toe by itself1 rais$ up4 ,n[ comp>e ) ?is any natural foot habituat$ to %oes or boots4 ,! bun* ( ?ree toes is press$ back1 & also sideways aga9/ ! great toe1 ?us los+ ! division betwe5 !m & ! great toe1 & de/roy+ ! true cont\r ( ! foot4 ,! pads ( all ! toes are press$ sideways in/ead ( be+ imm$iately "u ! nails1 & ! foot has entirely lo/ its orig9al "*1 & has become grotesquely mal=m$ by corns1 bunions1 & simil> gr[?s4 ,! mo/ beautiful natural foot1 ! only beautiful foot :i* we ev] rememb] hav+ se51 0 a ca/ 9 ,sir ,edg> ,boehm's /udio ( ! foot ( a black woman :o _h nev] worn %oes4 ,( late !re has be5 a disposition to return to ! s&al z a cov]+ or r protection = *ildr5's feet 7"o fe>s t x w be long be=e gr[n-ups adopt ! s&al1 except p]haps at ! seaside or 9 ! c\ntry74 ,! *ange is a heal?y "o f e po9t ( view4 ,^u /hetic gr\nds x is especially welcome4 ,"o walks along ! /reet dur+ ! summ] mon?s1 ! m9d p]haps preoccupi$1 & ! eye sudd5ly lights ^u ! rosy feet ( "o ( ^! little ones z !y trip along ! /reet4 ,"o involunt>ily exclaims1 ,:at a *>m+ design6 ,:at a beautiful piece ( ornam5t6 ,( a tru?1 9 place ( ! un9t]e/+ product ( ! %oemak]1 :i* we _h become s inur$ & accu/om$ to1 "o is sudd5ly introduc$ to t ma/]piece ( ! ,great ,design]1 ! human foot1 & ! foot1 too1 9 its natural /ate1 be=e x has become crippl$ & di/ort$ by long conf9em5t 9 a lea!r prison4 ,,footnotes3 #bh ,?omas ,deloney's booke call$ ! ,g5tle ,crafte1 intreat+ ( ,%[mak]s1 tells h[ ,crisp9 & ,crispianus1 sons ( ,k+ ,logrid ( ,brita9 & ( ,que5 ,e/r$a1 7 %elt]$ at ,fav]%am1 ,k5t4 ,crisp9 woo$ & m>ri$ ,pr9cess ,ursula1 ^: son 0 born 9 ! %oemak]'s h\se4 ,h5ce ! say+1 ,a %oemak]'s son is born a ,pr9ce4 ,f _! high l9eage1 %oemak+ is nam$ ,! ,g5tle ,craft4 ,i am ( ,crisp9's trade1 a brave ,%ooemak]1 ,he lov$ a ,pr9cess de>1 & ne'r =sak't h]4444 ,?is craft 0 nev] held 9 scorn1 ,sir ,?omas ,ey] did x adorn1 ,a ,%oemak]'s son a ,pr9ce is born4 ,roxburghe ,ballads4 #bi ,heal? 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