---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,transcrib]'s note3 ,all ,plates & _! captions h be5 mov$ to ! end ( ! *apt]s to :i* !y belong4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,illu/ration ,a ,,h&book ,,( ,,pictorial ,,hi/ory4 ,illu/ration ,,"s ,,o!r ,,hi/ory ,,& ,,geography ,,publications4 ,,hi/orical ,,illu/rations4 ,9 ,f\r ,sets4 ,by ,h4 ,w4 ,donald4 ,price1 ea* set1 #a_/f ,,hi/ory ,,tea*+ ,,by ,,biographies4 ,9 ,two ,volumes4 ,by ,alice ,eve1 ,b4,a4 ,price1 ea*1 net1 #c_/-2 po/ free1 #c_/d 8,,britannic0 ,,hi/orical ,,geography4 ,9 ,two ,p>ts4 ,price1 ea*1 net1 #e;d4 ,details ( ! above w be f\nd on pages at back ( ?is book4 ,a ,h&book ( ,,pictorial ,,hi/ory ,conta9+ #fhj ,illu/rations f ,orig9al ,contempor>y ,s\rces treat+ ^u ,ar*itecture1 ,arms & ,arm\r1 ,antiquities1 ,co/umes1 ,cu/oms1 ,%ipp+1 ,h]aldry1 ,! ,*ur*1 etc4 ) ,notes & ,descriptive ,articles on ,^! ,subjects = ! use ( ,/ud5ts ,tea*]s4 ,writt5 & ,illu/rat$ by ,,h5ry ,w4 ,,donald ,compil] ( ! ,britannic ,hi/orical ,geography ! ,sugge/ions ,hi/orical ,draw+ ,c>ds etc4 ,illu/ration ,,london3 ,*>les & ,son1 ,ltd4 #aj1 ,,pat]no/] ,,squ>e1 ,e4,c4#d4 ,,& ,,glasg[4 ,made & pr9t$ 9 ,great ,brita94 ,,preface4 ,x has be5 felt t 9 ! /udy ( ,engli% ,hi/ory1 to ! ord9>y /ud5t & tea*]1 !re are great difficulties 9 ! way ( consult+ ! num]\s /&>d & o!r excell5t works1 on ! subjects dealt ) 9 ?is volume4 ,_m h n suffici5t leisure1 & _m are unable to make use ( ! facilities = /udy & rese>* (f]$ by our great national & prov9cial libr>ies & museums4 ,&1 to mo/1 ! prohibitive co/ ( a repres5tative collection ( ^! /&>d works is an effectual b> to ! acquisition ( a p]sonal collection4 ,an acqua9tance ) ^! subjects is necess>y to an intellig5t appreciation ( ! life hi/ory & developm5t ( our nation1 & ( ! conditions ( life ( our ance/ors1 & ?is "w has be5 und]tak5 = /ud5ts & tea*]s ) reg>d to ^! matt]s1 ) ! hope t1 by its means1 ! pa? ( /udy w be illum9at$1 & ! int]e/ %[n 9 ! /udy ( hi/ory correspond+ly increas$4 ,too (t51 9 ! pa/1 has hi/ory be5 taught z a s]ies ( dry lessons on facts & dates1 & al?\gh 9 late ye>s !re has be5 a great improvem5t 9 ?is respect1 to _m ! liv+ facts ar\nd u1 z be>+ on our hi/ory1 9 our *ur*es1 our hi/oric build+s1 our museums1 & our national collections1 are /ill disreg>d$4 ,:at eloqu5t tongues !y h1 & yet1 on :at deaf e>s d _! voices fall6 ,mr4 ,fairholt1 9 8 well-kn[n "w on 8,co/ume 9 ,engl&10 says3 8,a k ( co/ume is1 9 "s degree1 insep>able f a "r k ( hi/ory4 ,we c sc>cely read its ev5ts )\t1 9 "s measure1 pictur+ 9 ! m9d's eye ! appe>ance ( ! actors40 ,:at is true ( co/ume1 :i* includes1 ( c\rse1 civil1 milit>y1 & ecclesia/ical co/ume1 is equally true ( ar*itecture & o!r matt]s associat$ ) ! daily lives ( our =efa!rs4 ,h[ !y liv$ & di$1 h[ !y work$1 h[ !y dress$1 h[ & :]e !y wor%ipp$ ,god1 & ! influ5ces br\ght to be> ^u !m by ! ,*ur*1 mu/ be realiz$ z factors 9 ! developm5t ( ! nation4 ,x is hop$ t ?is "w may prove useful to ! /ud5t1 to ! pupils 9 our s*ools & colleges1 & to tea*]s :o h n be5 able to make a special /udy ( ^! ?+s4 ,sev]al plans ( arrang+ ! subject-matt] h sugge/$ !mselves1 & ! writ] has ?\ght--?\gh x is op51 ( c\rse1 to criticism--t ! "w w\ld be mo/ usefully & mo/ easily consult$ by arrang+ x "u ! heads ( our hi/oric p]iods4 ,x w be readily und]/ood t ?is is m]ely an arbitr>y arrangem5t1 & t !re mu/ be ov]lapp+ at times4 ,! aim has be5 to make ea* section z complete z possible 9 ! giv5 space1 & yet to avoid t$i\s details4 ,to exp]ts ! food may seem v light1 b x is to ! av]age /ud5t & tea*]1 to :om ! subjects are new1 t ! "w mu/ appeal4 ,e ef=t has be5 made to secure accuracy & tru?fulness1 bo? 9 ! matt] & 9 ! six hundr$ & eighty draw+s :i* illu/rate x4 ,v _m works h be5 consult$1 &1 z all ! illu/rations are f au!ntic & contempor>y s\rces1 x is hop$ t ! usefulness ( ! "w w be v consid]able4 ,! writ] wi%es to express 8 great obligation to ! foll[+ writ]s & books1 :om he has laid "u contribution3-- ,gre5well's ,briti% ,b>r[s1 ,dawk9's ,e>ly ,man 9 ,brita91 ,evans's ,anci5t ,/one ,implem5ts ( ,great ,brita91 ,/rutt's ,horda1 ,grose's ,milit>y ,antiquities1 ,wallis ,budge's ,roman ,antiquities at ,*e/]s1 ,jewitt's ,c]amic ,art ( ,great ,brita91 ,fairholt's ,co/ume 9 ,engl&1 ,mrs4 ,a%d[n's ,briti% ,co/ume dur+ ,n9ete5 ,c5turies1 ,plan*e's ,cyclopdia ( ,co/ume & ,hi/ory ( ,briti% ,co/ume1 ,cutt's ,sc5es & ,*>act]s ( ! ,middle ,ages1 ,b>n>d's ,companion to ,engli% ,hi/ory1 ,middle ,ages1 ,traill's ,social ,engl&1 ,gre5's ,%ort ,hi/ory 7,illu/rat$ ,edition71 ,p>k]'s v>i\s works on ,go?ic ,ar*itecture1 ,rickman's ,go?ic ,ar*itecture1 ,b\tell's ,monum5tal ,brasses ( ,engl&1 ,suffl+'s ,engli% ,*ur* ,brasses1 ,mackl9's ,brasses ( ,engl&1 ,a%d[n's ,briti% & ,=eign ,arms & ,arm\r1 ,hewitt's ,anci5t ,arm\r & ,weapons 9 ,europe1 ,b\tell's ,arms & ,arm\r1 ,fox-,davies's ,complete ,guide to ,h]aldry1 ,b\tell's ,engli% ,h]aldry1 ,bloom's ,engli% ,seals1 ,abbot ,gasquet's ,engli% ,mona/ic ,life1 ,comm&] ,rob9son's ,briti% ,fleet1 ,oman's ,hi/ory ( ! ,art ( ,w>1 ,f[kes's ,bayeux ,tape/ry1 ,g>d9]'s ,hi/ory ( ,engl&1 ,! ,j\rnals ( ! ,briti% ,ar*ological ,association1 & ( v>i\s ,c\nty ,associations4 ,! writ]1 too1 wi%es to ?ank ! ,libr>y ,committee ( ! ,city ( ,london ,corporation = p]mission to make draw+s ( objects 9 ! ,guildhall ,museum1 & ,mrs4 ,a%d[n = p]mission to make use ( illu/rations 9 h] 8,briti% ,co/ume40 ,,h5ry ,w4 ,,donald4 ,,cont5ts4 ,,page ,,! ,,/one ,,age4 7,plate #a7 #g ,,! ,,bronze ,,age4 7,plate #b7 #i ,,prehi/oric ,,pott]y ,,& ,,fun]al ,,cu/oms4 7,plate #c7 #aa ,,! ,,roman ,,wall4 7,plate #d7 #ac ,,roman ,,pott]y1 ,,etc4 7,plate #e7 #ag ,,roman ,,antiquities ,,f\nd ,,9 ,,london4 7,plate #f7 #ai ,,roman ,,ar*itecture ,,9 ,,brita94 7,plate #g7 #ba ,,roman ,,arms1 ,,etc4 7,plate #h7 #bc ,,saxon ,,weapons4 7,plate #i7 #be ,,saxon ,,co/ume1 ,a4,d4 #dfj-;,a4,d4 #ajff4 7,plates #aj-aa7 #bg ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,ar*itecture4 7,plate #ab7 #ca ,,saxon ,,cu/oms4 7,plate #ac7 #cc ,,saxon ,,f>m+4 7,plate #ad7 #ce ,,saxon ,,antiquities4 7,plate #ae7 #cg ,,dani% ,,vessels1 ,,etc4 7,plate #af7 #ci ,,norman ,,co/umes4 7,plate #ag7 #da ,,norman ,,arms ,,& ,,arm\r4 7,plate #ah7 #dc ,,! ,,bayeux ,,tape/ry4 7,plate #ai7 #df ,,e>ly ,,norman ,,ar*itecture4 7,plate #bj7 #ea ,,lat] ,,norman ,,ar*itecture4 7,plate #ba7 #ec ,,norman ,,ca/les4 7,plate #bb7 #ee ,,norman ,,seals ,,& ,,co9s4 7,plate #bc7 #ei ,,! ,,j\/ ,,& ,,! ,,t\rnam5t4 7,plate #bd7 #fa ,,engli% ,,ar*]s4 7,plate #be7 #fc ,,e>ly ,,cannon4 7,plate #bf7 #fg ,a ,,fifte5? ,,c5tury ,,%ip4 7,plate #bg7 #ga ,,brasses4 7,plate #bh7 #gc ,,h]aldry4 7,plate #bi7 #gh ,,! ,,tudor ,,navy4 7,plate #cj7 #hc ,,plantag5et ,,co/ume4 7,plates #ca-cb7 #hf ,,mail ,,arm\r4 7,plate #cc7 #ic ,,e>ly ,,engli% ,,ar*itecture4 7,plates #cd-ce7 #ih ,,mix$ ,,mail ,,& ,,plate ,,arm\r4 7,plate #cf7 #ajc ,,lanca/rian ,,& ,,yorki/ ,,p]iods4 ,male ,co/umes4 7,plate #cg7 #ajg ,female ,co/umes4 7,plate #ch7 #aac ,plate ,arm\r4 7,plate #ci7 #aae ,decorat$ ,ar*itecture4 7,plates #dj-da7 #aai ,,tudor ,,p]iod4 ,male ,co/umes4 7,plate #db7 #abf ,female ,co/umes4 7,plate #dc7 #aca ,plate ,arm\r4 7,plate #dd7 #acf ,p]p5dicul> ,ar*itecture4 7,plates #de-df7 #ada ,,/u>t ,,p]iod 7,,to ,,william ,,iii474 ,male ,co/umes4 7,plate #dg7 #add ,female ,co/umes4 7,plates #dh-di7 #aea ,arms & ,arm\r4--,to end ( ,*>les ,,ii4 7,plate #ej7 #aee ,,anne1 ,,george ,i4 ,,& ,,george ,,ii4 ,male ,co/umes4 7,plate #ea7 #aei ,female ,co/umes4 7,plate #eb7 #afc ,,george ,,iii4 ,male ,co/umes4 7,plate #ec7 #afe ,female ,co/umes4 7,plate #ed7 #afh ,,! ,,mona/ic ,,ord]s4 7,plate #ee7 #agc ,,g5]al ,,plan ,,( ,a ,,mona/]y4 7,plate #ef7 #agd ,,! ,,fri>s ,,& ,,canons4 7,plate #eg7 #agg ,,milit>y ,,mona/ic ,,ord]s4 7,plate #eh7 #aha ,,ecclesia/ical ,,co/umes ,,& ,,ve/m5ts4 7,plate #ei7 #ahe ,,pilgrims4 7,plate #fj7 #ahi ,,! ,,/one ,,age4 ,! ,fl9t ,weapons ( ,prehi/oric ,man 9 ,brita94 ,:5 ,brita9 0 jo9$ to ! cont95t ( ,europe 7at ! "t :5 ! mammo? liv$71 x 0 inhabit$ by ! ,paloli?ic or ,anci5t ,/one m54 ,!y 7 ignorant ( ! use ( metals1 & us$ implem5ts ( bone & ( rudely *ipp$ /one & fl9t1 :i* !y did n "k h[ to fa/5 to h&les4 ,^! implem5ts & weapons1 ( a diff]5t type f ^? ( lat] p]iods1 are f\nd 9 ! riv] b$s ( drifts1 & ^! e>ly p are spok5 ( z ! 8,drift m540 ,cave-dwell+ ,paloli?ic m5 succe$$ ^!4 ,_! weapons 7 /ill v rude1 b !y made h&les & fix$ !m to ! fl9ts1 s =m+ arr[s1 lances or javel9s1 & axes4 ,^! 7 foll[$ by a race call$ ,neoli?ic m51 or m5 ( ! ,new ,/one ,age4 ,_! /one implem5ts 7 bett] %ap$1 m highly f9i%$1 7 (t5 gr\nd smoo?1 & ev5 poli%$4 ,!y also made a rude k9d ( pott]y4 ,^! m5 71 d\btless1 ( ! race call$ ,ib]ians4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #a4 7,fig4 #a73 ,fl9t h&-hamm] or axe f\nd 9 ,gray's ,inn ,lane4 ,?is 0 ! e>lie/ =m1 r\ghly *ipp$ into %ape1 ) un%>p5$ edges4 7,figs4 #b & #c73 ,a dagg] 9 ! ,briti% ,museum 7front & side views74 ,! dagg] is "o ( ! commone/ weapons ( ! ,/one ,age1 be+ simple 9 =m & easy ( con/ruction4 7,fig4 #d73 ,a javel9 head2 a simple1 elongat$ spl9t] ( fl9t1 %ap$ to a small /em1 :i* 0 ins]t$ 9 ! end ( a %aft & fa/5$ by means ( ligam5ts4 7,figs4 #e & #f73 ,a /one celt 7pron\nc$ selt7 or axe ( ! simple/ =m4 ,?is is gr\nd1 probably by ! use ( s& & wat] into a regul> & %>p edge4 7,fig4 #g73 ,a fl9t flake1 probably us$ z a scrap]4 7,fig4 #h73 ,a /emm$ arr[-head4 7,fig4 #i73 ,a b>b$ arr[-head 7a lat] developm5t74 7,fig4 #aj73 ,a loz5ge-%ap$ arr[-head4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,a poli%$ /one axe1 fix$ 9 a /ag's horn socket4 7,fig4 #ab73 ,a p]=at$ hamm] f\nd at ,sc>bor\gh4 7,figs4 #ac & #ad73 ,a p]=at$ axe 7two views7 f\nd 9 ,york%ire4 7,bo? ,figs4 #ab & #ac %[ a v high degree ( skill 9 ! %ap+ ( ! =m1 9 ! drill+1 & 9 g5]al f9i%47 7,fig4 #ae73 ,a poli%$ celt fix$ 9 its orig9al h&le1 f\nd 9 ,cumb]l&4 7,fig4 #af73 ,a fl9t *isel-%ap$ tool4 7,fig4 #ag73 ,a fl9t bor]1 us$ = mak+ holes 9 wood1 bone1 or /one1 f\nd 9 ! ,york%ire ,wolds4 ,,! ,,bronze ,,age4 ,! ,ib]ians 7 succe$$ by ! ,celts1 :o conqu]$1 & probably int]m>ri$ )1 ! =m]4 ,!y _h a k ( ! use ( metals1 & employ$ copp] fir/ = ! manufacture ( _! weapons & tools4 ,!n !y le>n$ t1 by mix+ t9 ) copp]1 a h>d] metal 0 obta9$1 :i* we call bronze1 & ?is p]iod is1 consequ5tly1 call$ ! ,bronze ,age4 ,! e>ly bronze weapons 7 ( ! same =m z ! fl9t weapons1 = probably ! latt] 7 us$ z 8patt]ns0 = =m+ ! m\ld4 ,lat]1 9 ! case ( ! celt1 flanges 7 =m$ at ! side1 &1 f9ally1 a socket$ celt 0 made1 %[+ a consid]able skill 9 its manufacture4 8,! k ( bronze mu/ h affect$ ! w>f>e ( ! "t 9 ! same way z ! introduction ( gunp[d] affect$ ! w>f>e ( ! ,middle ,ages40 ,x has be5 e/imat$ t ! ,bronze ,age comm5c$ 9 ,brita9 ab\t #aejj ,b4,c4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #b4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a bronze spe> head--,lat] ,celtic--9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,x is probable t ! fl9t spe>-head cont9u$ 9 use into ! ,bronze ,age1 & t ! spe>-head ) a socket 0 n inv5t$ until socket$ celts 7 made4 7,fig4 #b73 ,an ornam5tal bronze celt or axe f\nd 9 ,suffolk4 ,! simpl] =m ( ! celt has be5 improv$ ^u by ! addition ( flanges4 7,figs4 #c & #d7 %[ h[ !y 7 probably fix$ 9 h&les4 7,fig4 #e73 ,a bronze knife dagg] f\nd 9 ! ,isle ( ,wight 7,briti% ,museum74 7,fig4 #f73 ,a bronze arr[-head4 7,fig4 #g73 ,a bronze socket$ celt4 7,fig4 #h73 ,! same1 ) ! probable me?od ( fa/5+ to a h&le4 7,fig4 #i73 ,a bronze cauldron f\nd 9 ,irel&4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,a late ,celtic ,helmet1 ornam5t$ & %[+ g5]ally 9 its /ructure a v advanc$ skill 9 manufacture2 f\nd 9 ! ,?ames2 n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,a bronze dagg] 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 7,fig4 #ab73 ,a bronze spe>-head 7elongat$ =m71 f\nd at ,/anwick 9 ,york%ire2 n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 ,bo? ! spe> heads 9 ,figs4 #a & #ab t5d t[>ds a leaf =m4 7,fig4 #ac73 ,a bronze sword1 n>r[ & leaf-%ap$1 9 ! ,guildhall ,museum1 ,london2 %[+ rivet holes4 ,! sword ( ! ,bronze ,age is rem>kable = ! beauty ( its =m4 ,! av]age l5g? ( ! blade 0 ab\t two feet1 ! h&le be+ made ( horn or wood1 split & rivett$ on ei!r1 side4 ,! sword 0 probably encas$ 9 a scabb>d ( lea!r1 wood or bronze4 ,,prehi/oric ,,pott]y ,,& ,,fun]al ,,cu/oms4 ,neoli?ic m5 7( ! ,lat] ,/one ,age7 buri$ _! dead 9 ! caves :i* !y _h us$ = dwell+s1 or 9 /one *amb]s1 probably repres5t+ ! huts 9 :i* !y liv$4 ,ea* ( ^! 0 us$ z a vault1 common to ! family or tribe1 = !y are f\nd conta9+ skeletons ( all ages4 ,! dead 7 buri$ 9 ! tomb z !y di$1 9 a contract$ or cr\*+ position1 laid ^u _! sides1 probably due to _! sleep+ 9 t position1 & n at full l5g? on a b$4 ,implem5ts ( v>i\s k9ds1 arr[ heads1 celts & pott]y1 7 frequ5tly plac$ 9 ! tombs1 & 7 probably int5d$ = ! use ( ! dead4 ,! tombs 7 !n cov]$ ) /ones & e>?1 =m+ m\nds 7also kn[n z b>r[s & tumuli71 :i* 7 usually long & oval 9 plan4 ,dome/ic animals 7 slaught]$1 & a fea/ 0 made aft] ! int]m5t 9 hon\r ( ! dead4 ,9 ! ,bronze ,age1 !re 0 a /rik+ *ange 9 ! cu/om ( burial1 probably ! sign ( ! introduction ( a new fai?4 ,! dead 7 burn$ on a fun]al pile1 & ) !m 7 burn$ _! belong+s--! v>i\s articles & implem5ts ( daily use--& ! burnt rema9s 7 ga!r$ up ) ! calc9$ bones & a%es & plac$ 9 an urn4 ,sometimes ?is urn 0 plac$ upright1 & at o!r times x 0 inv]t$ ov] ! a%es4 ,z 9 =m] times1 a m\nd 0 c>efully rais$1 cov]+ ! urn & its cont5ts1 & ! memory ( ! dead 0 pres]v$ by p]iodic fea/s1 aft] ea* ( :i* e>? or /one 0 add$ to ! top ( ! m\nd1 ea* fea/ be+ repres5t$ by a lay] ( ! brok5 & burnt bones ( ! animals consum$4 ,^! b>r[s ( ! ,bronze ,age 7 g5]ally circul> 9 plan4 ,cremation did n1 h[ev]1 altoge!r aboli% ! old] practice ( bury+4 ,x is evid5t t bo? cu/oms 7 c>ri$ on simultane\sly4 ,hundr$s ( ^! m\nds h be5 c>efully op5$ at v>i\s times & ! cont5ts inve/igat$1 &1 9 almo/ e case1 e>!n-w>e vessels ( v>i\s =ms & sizes h be5 f\nd4 ,x is entirely to ^! grave m\nds t we are indebt$ = ! examples ( prehi/oric pott]y t are pres]v$ 9 our museums4 ,!re are f\r classes ( pott]y ( ^! e>ly times3-- #a4 ,sepul*ral or ,c9]>y ,urns1 :i* h be5 made =1 & h conta9$ or be5 inv]t$ ov]1 calc9$ human bones4 #b4 ,dr9k+ ,cups1 :i* are suppos$ to h conta9$ "s liquid to be plac$ 9 ! grave4 #c4 ,food vessels 7s call$71 :i* are suppos$ to h conta9$ an (f]+ ( food1 & :i* are m usually f\nd ) unburnt bodies ?an along ) int]m5ts by cremation4 #d4 ,immolation ,urns 7or ,inc5se ,cups71 v small vessels f\nd only ) burnt bones1 & usually conta9+ bones & a%es also1 plac$ 9 ! m\?s (1 or close by1 ! l>g] c9]>y urns4 ,x has be5 sugge/$ t ^! 7 simply small urns1 int5d$ to receive ! a%es ( ! infant1 p]haps sacrific$ at ! dea? ( its "m4 ,!y are also kn[n z inc5se cups1 & are suppos$ by "s to h be5 us$ to c>ry ! sacr$ fire ) :i* to light ! fun]al pile1 or z c5s]s 9 ! fun]al c]emonies4 ,^! vessels diff] mu* 9 size & ornam5tation1 & 9 ! quality ( ! clay f :i* !y are =m$4 ,9 ! exam9ation ( b>r[s1 ! spot :]e ! fun]al pyre has be5 made c (t5 be detect$ by ! burnt soil !re4 ,x is consid]$ probable t1 :ile ! body 0 burn+1 ! clay urn 0 plac$ on ! fun]al fire & !n bak$4 8,dr9k+ ,cups0 are usually burnt mu* h>d] ?an ! o!r vessels4 ,mo/ ( ! vessels are decorat$ 9 a rude fa%ion ) l9es or figures1 probably drawn by a po9t$ in/rum5t or comb :il/ ! clay 0 s(t4 ,!y 7 made by h&1 & are (t5 v unev5 & crudely =m$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #c4 7,fig4 #a73 ,food vessel ( ! prevail+ type1 ornam5t$ ) dots & l9es1 =m+ saw-l patt]ns ar\nd x4 7,f ,gre5well's ,briti% ,b>r[s47 7,fig4 #b73 ,immolation urn or inc5se cup1 cov]$ ) a patt]n4 7,briti% ,museum47 7,fig4 #c73 ,food vessel ( a r uncommon type1 ( good =m & elaborately ornam5t$4 7,f ,gre5well's ,briti% ,b>r[s47 7,fig4 #d73 ,a l>ge dr9k+ cup1 ! out] surface be+ almo/ cov]$ ) ornam5t1 =m$ by ! po9t ( a %>p in/rum5t 7f\nd 9 a b>r[ at ,ea/ ,k5net74 7,fig4 #e73 ,dr9k+ cup1 f\nd 9 a b>r[ ne> ,goodmanham1 ornam5t$ ) patt]ns =m$ ) l9es4 7,f ,gre5well's ,briti% ,b>r[s47 ,,! ,,roman ,,wall4 ,mu* diff]5ce ( op9ion has be5 express$ betwe5 ar*ologi/s z to :o built ! ,roman ,wall1 x be+ sev]ally attribut$ to bo? ,hadrian & ,sev]us4 ,a rec5t writ] ( au?ority says3 8,no "o really kn[s :o built ! ,roman ,wall1 & ! evid5ce n[ available is1 9 ! pres5t writ]'s op9ion1 :olly insuffici5t to enable u to decide ! difficult problem4444 ,a commons5se & probable view is t ,hadrian caus$ ! vallum 7e>!n ramp>t71 :i* may h be5 !re be=e 8 "t1 to be supplem5t$ by walls & =ts1 built ( /one1 9 su* extremely expos$ & comm&+ positions z we f9d at or ne> ,borcovicus 7,home/eads71 & t1 ab\t #hf ye>s aft] ! ,emp]or left ,brita91 ,sev]us ord]$ ^! to be repair$1 & ! :ole ( ! ,roman =tifications to be built ( /one1 & ! wall to be c>ri$ across f sea to sea40 ,x /ret*es f ,walls5d1 ne> ,newca/le1 to ,c>lisle4 ,a section ( its g5]al /ructure is %[n 9 ,pl4 #g1 ,fig4 #aa4 ,x 0 v /rong1 & consi/$ ( a dit* on ! nor? side1 ab\t #ae ft4 deep1 & !n a broad /one wall ab\t #ah ft4 high & #h ft4 ?ick4 ,s\? ( ! dit* 0 a broad road1 & next to t a ramp>t or e>!n wall4 ,9 "s p>ts1 h[ev]1 !re 7 two roads made1 p>allel to "o ano!r4 ,at fairly regul> int]vals along ! wall 7 =tifi$ milit>y 8/ations10 v>i\sly comput$ at f #ah to #bc 9 numb]4 ,betwe5 !m1 at int]vals ( ab\t a mile1 7 rectangul> t[]s1 call$ 8mile ca/les10 & small] t[]s or 8turrets0 7 plac$ ab\t f\r to ! mile betwe5 ^!4 ,! ,/ations 7 small1 rectangul> t[ns1 ! inhabitants ( :i* liv$ probably "u m>tial law4 ,!y v>i$ 9 ext5t f "o to six acres1 7 always /rongly =tifi$ ) walls six to n9e feet ?ick1 surr\nd$ by a dit*4 ,ea* ,/ation _h1 at lea/1 f\r gateways1 "o on ea* side1 & its area 0 cross$ by two ma9 /reets1 :i* bisect$ ea* o!r at "r angles4 ,! l>g] ,/ations 7 provid$ ) a ,=um1 s]v+ z a m>ketplace & a place = public assembly2 a ,pretorium1 or resid5ce = ! ,comm&ant2 ba?s1 b>racks1 & num]\s small] dwell+s = ! m9or (ficials & o!rs4 ,! ,mile ,ca/les 7 rectangul> 9 =m1 & measur$ ab\t sixty feet by fifty feet4 ,! ,wall =m$ ! nor!rn wall ( ! ,ca/le1 & ea* _h two gates1 nor? & s\?4 ,! ,turrets 7 also rectangul>1 b mu* small] ?an ! ,mile ,ca/les1 measur+ ab\t twelve feet by t5 feet1 & _h walls ne>ly ?ree feet ?ick4 ,!y s]v$ ! purpose ( look-out t[]s4 ,! ,wall requir$ a g>rison ( f #aj1jjj to #ab1jjj soldi]s to man x1 & ^! 7 ( _m nationalities1 be+ drawn f diff]5t p>ts ( ! ,roman ,empire4 ,borcovicus1 "o ( ! ,/ations1 0 g>rison$ = ab\t #bjj ye>s by a cohort ( #a1jjj ,tungrian 7,g]man7 ,infantry4 ,o!r cohorts consi/$ ( ,a/ures 7,spani>ds71 ,batavians 7,dut*71 ,gauls1 ,dalmatians1 ,moors1 & ,?racians4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t ! soldi]s !mselves built ! ,wall & ! v>i\s /ructures on x1 & kept ! masonry 9 repair1 z ! num]\s inscrib$ wall tablets te/ify 7,figs4 #a & #b74 ,aft] ! ,romans left ,brita91 ! ,wall 0 us$ = _m c5turies z a conv5i5t qu>ry1 ) ready-prep>$ /ones1 by neighb\r+ l&[n]s & f>m]s1 & _m f>mh\ses1 walls & ou?\ses 9 ! vic9ity ( ! ,wall are built entirely ( /ones f x4 ,dur+ excavations on ! sites ( ! ,/ations1 _m ,roman rema9s--alt>s1 ornam5ts1 co9s1 ut5sils1 etc4--h be5 f\nd1 p>ticul>ly ?r\gh ! public-spirit$ "w c>ri$ on by ,mr4 ,clayton1 ( ,*e/]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #d4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a wall tablet1 sculptur$ 9 relief1 ) ! figure ( a bo>1 ! badge ( ! #bj? ,legion4 ,! tablet is #bj 94 9 l5g?1 & 0 f\nd at ,v9dolana 7,*e/]holm74 7,fig4 #b73 ,ano!r tablet1 inscrib$ ) a record ( ! build+ ( a portion ( ! ,wall1 #bd paces long1 by ! ,?ruponian ,c5turia2 f ! ,wall at ,procolitia4 7,fig4 #c73 ,an alt>1 d$icat$ to ! god ,mihr1 or ,mi?ras1 by ,litorius ,pacatianus1 a consul> b5efici>y1 on behalf ( himself & 8 family2 f\nd 9 ! temple ( ,mi?ras1 at ,borcovicus4 7,mihr 0 a =m ( ! ,sun-god1 :o 0 wor%ipp$ 9 ,p]sia 9 v e>ly times1 & ab\t #ajj ,b4,c4 ! wor%ip ( ?is deity 0 adopt$ by ! ,romans47 7,fig4 #d73 ,small plan ( ,procolitia 7,c>ranburgh71 probably ! sev5? ,/ation on ! ,wall1 f ea/ to we/4 ,! nor!rn ramp>t is =m$ by ! ,roman ,wall4 ,procolitia 0 ab\t #adc y>ds long & #aah y>ds wide1 measur+ ab\t #c acres1 & 0 g>rison$ by ! #a/ ,batavian ,cohort 7,dut*74 7,fig4 #e73 ,plan ( ,cilurnum 7,*e/]s71 ! six? ,/ation on ! ,wall f ! ea/4 ,x 0 #ahf y>ds by #acg y>ds1 & measur$ ab\t #e acres4 ,! ,roman ,wall does n1 9 ?is in/ance1 co9cide ) ! nor!rn wall ( ! ,/ation4 ,! walls1 surr\nd$ by a dit*1 are ab\t five feet ?ick1 & ! corn]s are r\nd$ (f4 ,x 0 g>rison$ by ! #bnd ,ala ( ! ,a/urians 7,spani%71 a fam\s cavalry regim5t4 ,! ,/ations _h usually f\r gates1 b ,cilurnum has six4 ,,roman ,,pott]y1 ,etc4 7,9 ! ,guildhall ,museum1 ,london47 8,aft] ! ,roman occupation ( ,brita91 glass & pott]y 7 made "h 9 l>ge quantities1 s t ! importation ( glass1 :i* 0 c>ri$ on at fir/1 ceas$ to be necess>y40 ,samian w>e1 :i* 0 a r$ glaz$ w>e1 0 us$ ord9>ily ?r\gh\t ! we/]n half ( ! ,roman ,empire4 ,x 0 manufactur$ fir/ 9 ,etruria1 b aft]w>ds its manufacture 0 imitat$ 9 ,gaul4 ,v little ( ! g5u9e ,samian w>e f ,etruria f\nd its way into ,brita91 b ! ,gauli% ,samian w>e 0 import$ 9 l>ge quantities1 & 0 us$ ?r\gh\t ! prov9ce4 ,! f9] specim5s are decorat$ ) design 9 l[ relief1 ( a pictorial "*1 & ! w>e 0 ( v good quality1 =1 #a1ejj ye>s aft] its manufacture1 x pres]ves its col\rs & its lu/re p]fectly4 ,ca/or w>e1 a native product1 0 made at ,ca/or 7,durobrivae71 ne> ! ,riv] ,n51 & includes small vases ( ru/y copp] or slate col\r1 ) :ite ornam5t 9 l[ relief4 8,ca/or w>e is n ,roman 9 "*1 b r a local survival ( late ,celtic art40 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #e4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a ,roman tablet ( wood4 ,?is 0 cov]$ ) a ?9 coat+ ( wax1 ^u :i* ! writ+ 0 done ) a /ylus ( metal or bone4 ,:5 ! inscription 0 no long] ne$$1 a hot iron 0 held ov] ! surface1 & a new surface =m$ on ! wax4 7,fig4 #b73 ,a ,roman /ylus ( iron4 7,fig4 #c73 ,a ,roman amphora4 7,fig4 #d73 ,an ornam5t$ vase ( ,cologne w>e4 7,fig4 #e73 ,a b[l ( ,cologne w>e4 7,fig4 #f73 ,an ew] or wat] bottle1 ) ind5t$ m\?4 7,fig4 #g73 ,a deep b[l ( ,roman pott]y4 7,fig4 #h73 ,a c9]>y urn ( grey w>e = conta9+ ! a%es ( ! dead4 7,fig4 #i73 ,a decorat$ urn ( ,cologne w>e4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,a vase ( ,ca/or w>e1 r$1 ) black glaz$ neck ornam5ts1 decorat$ ) p9ki%-:ite slip4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,a ,roman glass hemisph]ical b[l4 7,fig4 #ab73 ,a dr9k+ cup ( ?ick ,samian w>e1 #c 94 high4 ,,roman ,,antiquities ,,f\nd ,,9 ,,london4 7,guildhall ,museum47 ,! ,roman influ5ce 9 ,brita9 0 direct$ to ! civiliz+ ( ! inhabitants4 ,x gave ! p bett] conditions ( life2 x gu>ante$ protection aga9/ ! tyrannies ( petty *iefta9s2 & x gave to !m ! res\rces ( ,roman civilisation4 ,! ,roman rema9s t are to be f\nd 9 our museums1 une>!d aft] c5turies ( oblivion1 %[ h[ def9ite 0 ! influ5ce ( ! ,romans 9 ! com=ts & necessities ( daily life4 8,keys & /eely>ds1 ro(+ tiles & hairp9s1 glass bottles & spoons1 /atues & bells1 repres5t wants & com=ts /range to ! #8savage & %iv]+ ,britons1' dress$ 9 sk9s1 :om e>li] writ]s knew40 ,! manufacture ( glass1 *iefly beads1 0 c>ri$ on at ,gla/onbury 9 ,roman times1 b mo/ ( ! glass f\nd is ,roman 9 "*4 ,! l>ge gre5 j>s :i* 7 us$ = conta9+ ! a%es ( ! dead 7 g5]ally made "h1 b ! be/ specim5s came probably f ,gaul1 :]e ! manufacture ( glass 0 c>ri$ on to a consid]able ext5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #f4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a squ>e bottle ( gre5 glass1 f\nd 9 a grave ) c9]>y urns4 7,fig4 #b73 ,an ungu5t>ium1 or bottle = ungu5ts1 p]fumes & o!r toilet requisites1 ( ,roman glass4 7,fig4 #c73 ,a ,roman lamp ( e>!n-w>e4 ,! wick 0 ins]t$ 9 ! sp\t1 & ! c5tral hole 0 = ! purpose ( fe$+ ! lamp4 7,fig4 #d73 ,ano!r ,roman lamp1 view$ f above4 7,fig4 #e73 ,a ,roman pole-axe1 ) exp&$ blade1 oval %aft-hole1 & po9t$ projection beh9d1 #i 94 long4 7,figs4 #f & #g73 ,two =ms ( ,roman keys ( bronze4 7,fig4 #h73 ,a ,roman %oe or busk91 ) t5 l>ge holes /amp$ out on ea* side4 7,fig4 #i73 ,an axe ) cresc5t-%ap$ blade & tang = h&le4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,a ,roman spoon ( copp] 7#e 94 long74 7,fig4 #aa73 ,a ,roman /eely>d ( bronze1 ) hooks & r+s4 7,fig4 #ab73 ,a sacrificial knife 7#g 94 long74 7,fig4 #ac73 ,a ,roman iron knife ) ornam5t$ bone h&le4 ,,roman ,,ar*itecture ,,9 ,,brita94 ,roman ar*itecture 9 ,brita91 judg+ f ! rema9s ( build+s1 0 g5]ally ( an inf]ior description1 = ,brita9 0 a remote & half-civilis$ prov9ce1 & little att5tion appe>s to h be5 paid to make ! build+s v ornate4 ,!re are two pr9cipal v>ieties ( masonry employ$ 9 _! con/ruction4 ,! fir/1 :i* is v *>act]i/ic1 consi/s ( lay]s ( irregul>ly %ap$ /ones & flat tiles emb$d$ 9 mort>1 g5]ally arrang$ 9 alt]nate lay]s ( tiles & /ones 9 mort>1 =m+ a k9d ( concrete 7,pl4 #g1 ,fig4 #c74 ,! ,m9t wall at ,l9coln1 ! ,jewry wall at ,leice/]1 & ! walls at ,ri*bor\gh & ,col*e/] are built 9 ?is mann]4 ,! o!r v>iety consi/s ( walls =m$ ( regul> c\rses1 ) wide jo9ts ( out] fac+s ( squ>e /ones or a%l>s1 ! int]ior spaces be+ fill$ ) a rubble emb$d$ 9 mort>4 ,! blocks1 :i* 7 ( hewn s&/one1 7 ab\t #h 94 by #aj 94 on ! face1 & z mu* z #bb 94 long 9 ! b$4 ,! :ole re/s on a c\rse ( l>g] f\ndation /ones 7,pl4 #g1 ,figs4 #a & #b74 ,roman mort> may g5]ally be di/+ui%$ by ! fact t x 0 mix$ ) p[d]$ brick1 & x is extremely h>d4 ,x is (t5 easi] to break ! tile or /one ?an ! mort>1 & ?is h>dness arises l>gely f ! fact t ! ,romans always burnt ! lime on ! spot1 & us$ x hot & fre%1 = on ! fre%ness ( ! lime ! /r5g? ( ! mort> l>gely dep5ds4 ,! walls ( ,burgh ,ca/le1 ,suffolk1 & ,ri*bor\gh1 ,k5t1 are among ! mo/ p]fect ,roman walls 9 ,engl&4 ,!re are ve/iges ( ,roman t[ns & villas ?r\gh\t ! c\ntry1 b !y consi/ ( f\ndations only4 ,! upp] /ory ( ^! ,roman h\ses 0 usually ( wood1 & all ! innum]able ,roman t[ns & villas ( :i* f\ndations h be5 discov]$ be> m>ks ( de/ruction by viol5ce1 fire hav+ be5 usually ! ag5t ( de/ruction4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #g4 7,fig4 #a73 ,section ( ,roman masonry1 %[+ ! out] fac+ ( regul>ly %ap$ /ones & ! int]ior ( rubble & mort>4 7,fig4 #b73 ,view ( outside ( wall4 7,fig4 #c73 ,roman ar* at ,col*e/] ,ca/le1 ,hamp%ire1 %[+ alt]nate lay]s ( tiles or flat bricks & /ones4 7,figs4 #d1 #e & #f73 ,fragm5ts ( ,roman ornam5tal m\ld+s built 9 at ,hexham4 ,roman build+ mat]ial is (t5 us$ aga9 9 o!r build+s ne> ! site ( ! ,roman ,/ation1 z at ,col*e/] ,ca/le 7,essex71 ,/4 ,m>t9's ,*ur*1 ,cant]bury1 & ,/4 ,alban's ,abbey 7,h]ts474 7,fig4 #g73 ,basem5t ( ,/ation on ! ,roman ,wall4 7,fig4 #h73 ,ar* ( ,roman gate at ,l9coln4 ,x 0 ! nor? gate ( ! ,roman city ( ,l9dum1 & /ill =ms ! pr9cipal entrance into ! city f ! nor?4 ,!re 0 a small] ar* on ei!r side1 b only ! "o on ! ea/ rema9s4 ,x appe>s to h be5 )\t ornam5t ( any k9d4 7,fig4 #i73 ,a /one capital1 probably f ! portico ( a temple1 f\nd at ,cilurnum 7,*e/]s74 ,x is elaborately sculptur$ ) acan?us1 is #ag in*es 9 height1 ) a diamet]1 at its wide/ "p1 ( #ah in*es4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,a portion ( ! ,roman ,wall pass+ ov] a hill4 ,! ,roman ,wall consi/5tly pass$ 9 a /raight direction ov] ! c\ntry1 & only sw]v$ f a /raight l9e to take1 9 ! r\te1 ! bolde/ elevations4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,section ( ! ,wall 9 ,nor?umb]l&4 7a7 ,dit* ( ! ,wall2 7b7 ! /one wall2 7c7 ! milit>y way2 7d7 ! dit* ( ! vallum2 7e7 ! vallum 7( e>?74 ,,roman ,,arms1 ,etc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #h4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a ,roman galley 7f ,pompeii74 7,fig4 #b73 ,a ,roman ,eagle4 ,?is 0 m\nt$ on a pole & c>ri$ be=e ! ,legion4 ,! soldi]s ralli$ r\nd x & f\ght = its hon\r4 ,x correspond$ ) ! regim5tal flags ( our "t4 7,fig4 #c73 ,a ,roman sword4 ,?is 0 rem>kable = ! %ortness ( its blade4 ,x 0 susp5d$ f a %\ld] belt pass+ ov] ! left %\ld]1 s t ! sword hung on ! "r side1 a cu/om :i* 0 possible on acc\nt ( ! %ortness ( ! blade4 ,! l5g? 0 ab\t tw5ty-two in*es4 ,! blade 0 /raight1 ( uni=m wid?1 d\ble-edg$1 & cut at ! end 9 an obtuse angle to =m ! po9t4 7,fig4 #d73 ,a %ort sword or sword dagg]4 7,fig4 #e73 ,scabb>d ( ! same4 7,fig4 #f73 ,a ,roman ,c5turion1 ) an oval %ield1 su* z 0 g5]ally c>ri$ by horse soldi]s4 ,! body 0 protect$ by a metal cuirass =m$ ( back & brea/ plates1 /rapp$ toge!r at ! sides1 & fa/5$ by broad belts pass+ ov] ! %\ld]s4 ,at ! l[] "p ( ! cuirass 7 two b&s ( lea!r1 "o %[+ und]nea? ! o!r1 ! edges ( bo? be+ tagg$ or scallop$4 ,bel[ ?is d\ble bord] !re 0 a k9d ( lea!r skirt1 rea*+ ne>ly to ! knee4 ,a milit>y cloak or mantle 0 picturesquely drap$ ov] ! %\ld]4 ,metal greaves cov]$ ! %9s1 & s&als1 :i* 7 (t5 highly ornam5t$1 cov]$ ! feet4 7,fig4 #g73 ,a ,roman lam9at$ cuirass worn by ! heavily arm$ troops4 ,x consi/$ ( lames or plates ( /eel encircl+ ! body1 ) curv$ lames pass+ ov] ! %\ld]s1 & sev]al lames hang+ v]tically ov] ! l[] "p ( ! trunk4 ,!y 7 sewn or rivett$ to a tightly-fitt+ lea!r g>m5t4 7,figs4 #h1 #i & #aj73 ,roman helmets1 all fitt$ ) neck pieces to gu>d ! neck--,figs4 #h & #i ) *eek pieces1 h+$ & fa/5+ b5ea? ! *94 7,fig4 #aa73 ,ano!r =m ( %ield1 diff]+ entirely f t 9 ,fig4 #f4 8,x is elongat$ & convex oblong1 some:at resembl+ a holl[ wat]c\rse tile40 ,x 0 c>ri$ by ! legion>ies1 & 0 ab\t #b ft4 #f 94 long4 ,x 0 /r5g!n$1 at ! top & bottom only1 or all r\nd1 ) additional b&s ( metal4 ,) ?is =m ( %ield1 ! well-kn[n te/udo or tortoise =mation 0 made4 7,fig4 #ab73 ,a ,roman s&al ( lea!r4 ,,saxon ,,weapons4 ,! ,saxon arms 7 ! spe>1 ! axe1 ! sword1 ! dagg]1 ! long-b[1 & ! arr[4 ,! def5sive arm\r consi/$ ( helmet1 %ield1 & byrnie4 ,! ,spe> 0 ! *ief weapon ( ! ,saxons4 ,x 0 ( two =ms3 7#a7 #i or #aj ft4 long1 = use aga9/ cavalry or z a cavalry weapon1 & 7#b7 ab\t #f ft4 long1 = use z a javel9 or ?r[+ spe>4 ,:5 ! latt] 0 us$1 x 0 g5]ally c>ri$ 9 pairs4 ,! spe>1 or1 r1 ! spe>-head is always f\nd 9 ,saxon graves1 z x 0 buri$ ) its own]4 ,! %aft 0 g5]ally ( a%4 ,! ,axe 0 a v *>act]i/ic weapon ( ! ,saxon & k9dr$ races1 b x is v seldom f\nd 9 graves4 ,!re 7 sev]al =ms1 p>ticul>ly a long1 tap]+ blade 7,fig4 #f7 & a broad] blade 7,fig4 #g74 ,sometimes ! axe-head 0 m\nt$ on a %ort h&le1 & at o!r times on a long %aft1 to =m a pole-axe1 z %[n 9 ! ,bayeux tape/ry4 ,! ,sword 0 ess5tially ! cavalry weapon1 & 0 ! weapon ( ! upp] classes1 no p]son bel[ ! rank ( ,?ane c>ry+ x4 ,! e>lie/ swords :i* h be5 f\nd h no quillon or cross gu>d4 ,! sword 0 usually ab\t #c ft4 long1 ! blade be+ #cj 94 long & ab\t #b 94 wide ne> ! hilt4 ,x 0 d\ble-edg$1 & tap]$ slightly t[>ds ! po9t4 ,x usually _h a wood5 scabb>d1 & 0 (t5 ornam5t$ ) gold & preci\s /ones on ! hilt4 ,! dagg] or knife 0 a v g5]al weapon1 & has be5 f\nd 9 _m graves4 ,x v>ies consid]ably 9 size4 ,! soldi] probably c>v$ 8 food ) ! same weapon ) :i* he /abb$ 8 enemy4 ,! long-b[ 0 n 9 g5]al use among ! ,saxons4 ,our k ( x1 & ( arr[s also1 is ma9ly f ,,mss4 ,x is a disput$ po9t :e!r ! ,engli% us$ ! b[ at ,ha/+s1 = only "o ar*] is depict$ on ! ,engli% side4 ,= def5sive purposes1 ! soldi] wore a helmet ( metal1 or ( lea!r /r5g!n$ ) metal b&s & rims1 & he c>ri$ a %ield4 ,! latt] 0 ( wood1 & 0 circul> or oval 9 =m4 ,! c5tre 0 =m$ ( metal1 & 0 call$ a boss or umbo4 ,z ! %ield 0 buri$ ) a w>rior1 _m umbos h be5 f\nd 9 ! graves1 ! wood5 portion ( ! %ield hav+ decay$4 ,9 e>ly ,saxon times1 a protective g>m5t call$ a byrnie 0 worn by ! lead]s4 ,x may h be5 mail$ or quilt$ & padd$4 ,9 lat] times1 :5 ! nation 0 9 a m prosp]\s condition1 ! use ( ?is g>m5t probably became mu* m g5]al4 ,at ! "t ( ! ,norman conque/1 !re 0 v little diff]5ce 9 arms & equipm5t betwe5 ! ,normans & ,saxons1 on acc\nt ( ! int]c\rse betwe5 ! two ,c\rts4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #i4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a ,saxon spe>-head1 #aj 94 long1 ) a socket = ! %aft1 f\nd 9 ,s\?w>k4 7,guildhall ,museum1 ,london47 7,fig4 #b1 #c & #d73 ,saxon spe>-heads1 f ,,mss4 ,! lat]al projections f ! %aft 7 probably gu>ds1 to prev5t ! %aft be+ sev]$ by a sword cut4 7,fig4 #e73 ,a spe>-head ( diff]5t =m4 7,fig4 #f73 ,a ,saxon tap] axe-head1 #c 94 wide & #f 94 deep1 f\nd 9 ! ,?ames4 7,guildhall ,museum1 ,london47 7,fig4 #g73 ,ano!r & broad] =m ( axe-head4 7,fig4 #h73 ,a ,saxon sword f an #h? c5tury ,,ms4 7,figs4 #i & #aj73 ,sword h&les1 f\nd 9 ,cambridge%ire4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,umbo ( ,saxon %ield4 7,fig4 #ab73 ,saxon dagg] or knife1 ) ornam5tal wood5 h&le4 7,figs4 #ac1 #ad & #ae73 ,saxon arr[-heads4 7,figs4 #af & #ag73 ,saxon helmets4 7,fig4 #ah73 ,saxon b[1 f a ,,ms4 ,,saxon ,,co/ume1 ,a4,d4 #dfj-;,a4,d4 #ajff4 ,! ma9 s\rces f :i* we obta9 our k ( ,saxon ,co/ume are ! illum9at$ ,,mss4 rema9+ to u4 ,! e>lie/ ,,ms4 we h 0 writt5 ,a4,d4 #gbj1 ab\t #bjj ye>s aft] ! ,saxon ,conque/4 ,( ?is long p]iod we h no reliable record4 ,we "k1 h[ev]1 t on _! fir/ appe>ance 9 ,brita91 !y 7 n s advanc$ 9 civilisation z ! inhabitants1 :o _h ga9$ a consid]able advantage1 9 ?is respect1 f ! ,roman occupation4 ,! only reliable s\rce f :i* in=mation c be ga9$ ( ?is p]iod is 9 ! tumuli or graves4 ,9 ^! h be5 f\nd weapons & _m p]sonal ornam5ts ( a ri* "*4 ,saxon ,male ,co/ume4 ,a k9d ( %irt1 rea*+ to ! knee1 worn next to ! sk91 0 ! univ]sal1 &1 9 ! case ( ! humble/1 ! only g>m5t1 & x 0 always made ( l954 ,ov] ?is 0 worn a tunica1 :i* 0 g5]ally %ort1 b1 9 ! case ( p]sons ( high rank1 x 0 worn long]4 ,x fitt$ closely ar\nd ! neck1 & 0 cut op5 9 front1 be+ also (t5 op5 at ! sides f ! hips to ! hem4 ,sleeves 7 worn to ?is g>m5t1 & = _m ye>s 7 worn ruck$ ^u ! =e-arm 9 a v peculi> mann]1 probably s t ! sleeves c\ld be drawn d[n ov] ! h&s 9 cold wea!r4 ,! hem 0 (t5 decorat$ ) embroid]$ "w4 ,a %ort cloak1 or mantle1 0 g5]ally worn ov] ! tunica1 fa/5$ by a fibula or broo* ^u ! "r %\ld] or 9 ! c5tre ( ! *e/4 ,9 ! case ( a p]son ( high degree1 a l>g] cloak 0 also wrapp$ ar\nd ! figure4 ,! head 0 g5]ally uncov]$1 except 9 "t ( w>4 ,! hair 0 worn long1 rea*+ d[n to ! %\ld]s1 p>t$ c>efully 9 ! c5tre1 & tuck$ beh9d ! e>s4 ,:5 ! head 0 cov]$1 a cap ( ! ,phrygian %ape 7,fig4 #h7 0 worn4 ,p]sons ( di/9ction1 l ! memb]s ( ! ,witan1 wore a sug>-loaf %ap$ cap4 ,! be>d 0 worn ei!r r\nd or long & fl[+4 ,9 ! latt] case1 x 0 divid$ 9 ! c5tre l a =k1 & 0 call$ ! 8bifid0 be>d4 ,! bree*es 7 tight to ! leg1 & sometimes wide at ! bottom1 rea*+ to ! middle ( ! ?igh4 ,/ock+s 7 worn1 ei!r long en\gh to jo9 ! bree*es or %ort1 rea*+ ne>ly to ! knee4 ,! ru/ic frequ5tly wore no /ock+s4 ,civilians (t5 b\nd /rips ( col\r$ clo?1 & soldi]s /rips ( lea!r1 ar\nd _! /ock+s1 =m+ :at is call$ cross-g>t]+4 ,_! %oes 7 g5]ally l[1 & _h an op5+ up ! in/ep4 ,female ,co/ume4 ,! female co/ume 0 also v simple1 & consi/$ ( a long1 tight-sleev$ g>m5t1 ! gunna or g[n1 rea*+ to ! feet1 ) a tunic ov] ?is1 rea*+ to ! knees4 ,! tunica 0 girdl$ at ! wai/1 & _h wide sleeves ext5d+ to ! elb[4 ,a wide mantle1 a *>act]i/ic feature ( ! co/ume ( bo? m5 & wom51 cov]$ ! upp] "p ( ! body1 & a head-rail or hood consi/+ ( a piece ( mat]ial adju/$ ov] ! head1 0 always worn4 ,:5 mak+ a j\rney1 a l>ge travell+ cloak 0 also worn4 ,no illu/ration %[s ! complete arrangem5t ( ! hair1 b1 z ! wom5 ( ,cont95tal nations at ?is p]iod wore x 9 long plaits1 we may conclude t ! same fa%ion 0 foll[$ "h2 b ! hair 0 always cov]$4 ,a kirtle 0 also probably worn1 correspond+ 9 =m to ! g>m5t n[ kn[n z a 8pr9cess petticoat40 ,milit>y ,co/ume4 ,!re 0 b little diff]5ce betwe5 ! civil & milit>y co/ume ( ! m54 ,9 ,,mss41 soldi]s are (t5 repres5t$ ) no o!r weapon ?an a %ield or spe>1 or an axe or a b[ ) arr[s1 & attir$ 9 ord9>y co/ume4 ,occasionally1 "o is repres5t$ we>+ a k9d ( cuirass =m$ ( scales1 made ( ov]lapp+ slices ( horn sewn ^u co>se l954 ,dur+ ! reigns ( ,edw>d ! ,confessor & ,h>old ,,ii41 ow+ to ! con/ant int]c\rse betwe5 ! ,engli% & ! ,norman ,c\rts1 ! ,engli% adopt$ _m ( ! cu/oms & mu* ( ! co/ume ( ! ,normans1 s t1 among ! upp] & milit>y classes1 at any rate1 :5 ,william ( ,norm&y invad$ ,engl&1 ! memb]s ( ! two oppos+ armies 7 arm$ & attir$ 9 a v simil> mann]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #aj4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a ,saxon ru/ic1 we>+ only a solit>y g>m5t1 ) a po9t$ cap :i* has a comb1 & %oes4 7,cott4 ,,ms41 ,claudius ,b4 iv47 7,fig4 #b73 ,a ,saxon lady1 attir$ 9 7#a7 ! gunna1 7#b7 ! tunica1 7#c7 ! mantle1 7#d7 ! head-rail4 7,h>l4 ,,ms41 #b1ijh47 7,fig4 #c73 ,a ,saxon1 dress$ 9 7#a7 ! tunica1 7#b7 ! mantle1 7#c7 bree*es1 ) cross-g>t]$ /ock+s1 & %oes1 & 7#d7 a b&$ ,phrygian cap4 7,aft] ,mrs4 ,a%d[n47 7,fig4 #d73 ,saxon1 %[+ ! bifid be>d & ! arrangem5t ( ! hair4 7,cott4 ,,ms41 ,claudius ,b4 iv47 7,fig4 #e73 ,an ,engli% ,freeman1 we>+ a tunica1 ) %ort /ock+s & %oes1 & arm$ ) sword1 spe>1 helmet1 & %ield4 7,f a ,,ms47 7,fig4 #f73 ,a ,saxon soldi]1 we>+ a tunica cov]$ ) a mantle1 /ock+s1 & %oes1 ) spurs4 7,note ! mann] 9 :i* ! mantle is fa/5$ on ! "r %\ld]47 ,he is arm$ ) a spe>1 & has 8 head cov]$ ) a conical helmet4 ,z is po9t$ out above1 ! milit>y co/ume did n diff] f ! civil co/ume1 except z reg>ds ! helmet & ! arms4 7,figs4 #g to #ab73 ,saxon head-dresses4 7,fig4 #g73 ,a =m ( ! squ>e helmet4 7,fig4 #h73 ,a ,phrygian-%ap$ cap ( lea!r1 b\nd ) metal2 ! bifid be>d is also %[n aga94 7,fig4 #i73 ,ano!r =m ( ! squ>e helmet1 ) a k9d ( cre/ or comb4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,a po9t$ helmet ( simple =m4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,a po9t$ hat s]rat$ along ! back l a cock's comb4 7,fig4 #ab73 ,! commone/ =m ( helmet1 a conical cap ) a rim1 probably ( metal4 7,! o!r =m ( be>d is %[n 9 ?is figure47 7,figs4 #ac1 #ad & #ae73 ,saxon %oes1 f ,,mss4 7,figs4 #af & #ag73 ,saxon cr[ns1 f ,,mss4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #aa4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a ,saxon mon>* repres5t$ z seat$ on a ?rone1 we>+ a squ>e cr[n1 & hold+ a sceptre 9 8 "r h&4 ,he is attir$ 9 a ri*ly embroid]$ tunica & a mantle ( ample proportions1 ga!r$ up ) a broo* on ! left %\ld]4 ,8 /ock+s are cross-g>t]$ & ornam5t$ at ! knees & 9 ! loz5ges =m$ by ! g>t]+4 7,cott4 ,,ms41 ,tib]ius ,cvi47 7,fig4 #b73 ,a fiddl]1 we>+ ! tunica1 long /ock+s & %oes4 7,,ms41 ,tib4 ,cvi47 7,fig4 #c73 ,a gleeman or juggl]1 attir$ simil>ly to ! fiddl]4 7,f ! same ,,ms47 7,fig4 #d73 ,a husb&man1 engag$ 9 digg+4 7,f ,,ms41 aft] ,/rutt47 7,fig4 #e73 ,a blacksmi?1 work+ at ! anvil4 7,f ,,ms41 aft] ,/rutt47 7,fig4 #f73 ,a ,saxon k+1 ) a bifid be>d1 on ! seat ( judgm5t1 cr[n$ & attir$ 9 a tunica1 cov]$ ) a %ort mantle1 :i* is fa/5$ 9 ! c5tre ( ! *e/ by a broo* ( rectangul> =m4 7,fig4 #g73 ,a ,saxon noble1 ) long hair & a bifid be>d1 hold+ a sword ( *>act]i/ic ,saxon =m4 ,he is we>+ an ornam5t$ tunica rea*+ to ! ankles1 & ov] x a volum9\s mantle4 ,8 head is cov]$ ) a conical helmet4 ,! ruck+ ( ! sleeve on ! =e-arm is pla9ly %[n4 7,figs4 #f & #g f a ,,ms41 aft] ,/rutt47 7,fig4 #h73 ,a ,saxon horn-bl[]1 attir$ simil>ly to ! fiddl] & gleeman 7,figs4 #b & #c71 f ! same ,,ms4 7,fig4 #i73 ,a c>p5t] at "w ) an axe4 7,f a ,,ms41 aft] ,/rutt47 7,note4--,9 ,figs4 #b1 #c1 #d1 #e1 #h & #i1 all ! heads are b>e47 7,figs4 #aj to #ad73 ,saxon p]sonal ornam5ts1 buckle1 r+s1 etc41 f\nd 9 tumuli4 ,,anglo-,,saxon ,,ar*itecture4 ,build+s erect$ f ab\t #ejj ,a4,d4 to #ajej ,a4,d4 are call$ ,anglo-,saxon1 or simply ,saxon1 9 _! /yle4 ,! ,romans built 9 /one & brick1 b ! ,engli%1 :5 !y conqu]$ ,brita91 raz$ ! ,roman build+s to ! gr\nd1 & built _! own /ructures ( wood4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t ! ,saxon ^w = 8build0 0 8getimbrian10 to con/ruct ( wood4 ,f ! middle ( ! #e? c5tury1 = ne>ly #gjj ye>s1 until ! "t :5 ! ,norman ,ca/le arose1 well-nigh e build+ ( ar*itectural m]it 0 9 "s way or o!r connect$ ) ! ,*ur*4 ,! ,engli% 7 ess5tially work]s 9 wood1 & pr(\ndly ignorant ( masonry4 ,! *ur*es t sprang up all ov] ,engl& aft] ! conv]sion ( ! c\ntry to ,*ri/ianity 71 no d\bt1 ( wood1 & ev5 9 ! #i? & #aj? c5turies we he> ( 8! worm-eat5 walls ( ca!drals40 ,!y 7 decorat$ int]nally ) pa9t+s 9 v>i\s bright col\rs1 & ! ornam5tation 0 ( metal "w1 bronze or ! preci\s metals4 ,be=e ! end ( ! #g? c5tury1 /one *ur*es 7 built at ,york1 ,ripon & ,hexham1 ! latt] be+ l>gely built ( mat]ials f ! ,roman ,wall1 :i* passes )9 a %ort di/ance ( ! place1 & ,roman inscrib$ slabs h be5 us$ 9 =m+ ! ro( ( ! crypt4 ,b$e tells u t ,b5$ict cross$ ! sea to ,gaul1 & c>ri$ back ) him masons to build *ur*es ( /one1 8aft] ! mann] ( ! ,romans t he lov$10 at ,monkwe>m\? & ,j>r[1 ab\t #fhj ,a4,d4 ,ea* ( ^! *ur*es conta9s portions :i* are1 )\t d\bt1 f _! rude con/ruction1 p>ts ( ! orig9al fabrics ( ,b5$ict4 ,anglo-,saxon /one *ur*es 7 small1 rectangul> or cruci=m 9 %ape1 & )\t aisles4 ,a l(ty t[]1 )\t buttresses1 /&s at ! we/ end1 or at ! int]section ( ! nave & transepts4 ,! walls 7 usually ( rubble or small /ones1 ( v irregul> %ape1 cov]$ ) 8r\gh ca/0 or pla/]4 ,! k9d ( masonry t]m$ 8h]r+-bone0 is (t5 us$1 & ,roman bricks1 tak5 f ! ru9s ( e>li] build+s1 seem to h be5 freely us$4 ,x is probable t ! sides ( ! t[]s t]m9at$ 9 acutely po9t$ gables1 f :i* ! ro( is c>ri$ up1 z at ,sompt+ ,*ur*1 9 ,sussex4 ,! t[]s 7 )\t /aircases1 ! diff]5t /oreys be+ rea*$ by means ( ladd]s4 ,! old *ur* at ,brad=d1 9 ,wilt%ire1 is "o ( ! mo/ p]fect specim5s ( ! ,anglo-,saxon class4 ,x is probably ! small1 orig9al *ur* ( ! ,abbey1 built by ,adhelm1 9 ! #h? c5tury 7,a4,d4 #gje74 ,x is con/ruct$ ( ,ba? /one1 & x is consid]$1 on acc\nt ( ! f95ess ( ! build+1 t !re may h be5 a c]ta9 am\nt ( lat] re/oration4 ,9 ! #i? c5tury1 _m *ur*es 7 de/roy$ by ! ,danes1 & ,canute rebuilt _m *ur*es :i* 8 fa!r & 8 foll[]s _h de/roy$4 ,b1 = a p]iod be=e ! ye> #ajjj ,a4,d41 ! build+ ( *ur*es /opp$ on acc\nt ( ! expect$ mill5ium4 ,aft] t date1 :5 ! hopes & fe>s ( ! p _h prov$ gr\ndless1 ! build+ ( *ur*es comm5c$ aga9 ) r5ew$ vig\r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ab4 7,fig4 #a73 ,! ,anglo-,saxon t[] ( ,e>l's ,b>ton ,*ur*1 ,nor?ants4 ,at ! angles1 !re are 8quo9s10 or corn]-/ones1 =m$ ( long /ones set upright1 alt]nately ) o!rs laid horizontally1 & te*nically kn[n z 8long & %ort "w40 ,! surface ( ! walls is also divid$ up by 8pila/] /rips10 :i* are an imitation 9 /one ( wood5 con/ruction1 & are evid5tly int5d$ to b9d toge!r ! rude masonry ( ! walls4 ,x is 8! design ( a c>p5t] execut$ by a mason40 ,! p>apet is comp>atively rec5t 9 con/ruction4 7,fig4 #b73 ,t[] ar* ( ,anglo-,saxon "* at ,b>nack1 ,nor?ants4 ,b>nack 0 "o ( ! places :]e ! old *ur* 0 burnt by ! ,danes1 9 _! raid ?r\gh t "p ( ! c\ntry1 & rebuilt by ord] ( ,canute aft] ! settlem5t ( ! ,danes4 ,! impo/ m\ld+s 7b7 appe> to h be5 sugge/$ by a pile ( bo>ds ov]lapp+4 7,fig4 #c73 ,an enl>gem5t ( ! belfry w9d[ 7a1 ,fig4 #a74 ,d\ble w9d[s are usually r\nd-head$ or triangul>-head$4 ,! lights or s+le w9d[s are n sep>at$ by a /one m\ld+1 b by a k9d ( %aft or 8balu/]10 set 9 ! middle ( ! wall1 & support+ ! impo/4 7,fig4 #d73 ,belfry w9d[ 9 ! t[] ( ,de]hur/ ,*ur* 7#ajej ,a4,d474 ,! w9d[s are triangul>-head$1 ! head be+ =m$ ( two /raight /ones plac$ obliquely1 & meet+ at a po9t4 7,fig4 #e73 ,a w9d[ at ,cav]sfield1 ,bucks1 ) small op5+ & v wide 8splay40 ,?is w9d[ is splay$1 or wid5$ out1 bo? outside & inside1 ! w9d[ itself be+ set 9 ! middle ( ! wall1 s t ! wick]-"w or oil$ p>*m5t1 t did duty z a glass1 0 protect$ f ! wea!r4 7,fig4 #f73 ,section ( ,anglo-,saxon wall1 :i* consi/$ ( two r[s ( fairly regul> /ones1 ! int]v5+ space be+ fill$ ) irregul>ly %ap$ /ones1 emb$d$ 9 mort>1 ! latt] compris+ ne>ly half ! sub/ance ( ! wall4 ,! lay] ( /ones 9 ! int]ior ( ! build+ 0 g5]ally pla/]$ ov]4 7,fig4 #g73 ,an ,anglo-,saxon triangul>-head$ doorway4 7,figs4 #h1 #i & #aj73 ,diff]5t =ms ( ,anglo-,saxon balu/]s4 ,,saxon ,,cu/oms4 ,at meal-times ! company sat d[n 9 ! hall1 ! ma/]1 mi/ress1 & hon\r$ gue/s tak+ _! places at a 8high0 table plac$ on a dais at ! upp] end ( ! ap>tm5t4 ,d9n] 0 g5]ally s]v$ ei!r at noon or at ab\t #c o'clock 9 ! aft]noon4 ,! walls 7 decorat$ ) col\r$ & embroid]$ curta9s1 = ,engli% ladies & _! maid5s 7 fam$ = _! skill ) ! ne$le 9 embroid]y & decorative ne$lework4 ,! tables consi/$ ( bo>ds laid ^u tre/les1 :i* c\ld be easily remov$ :51 ! meal be+ ov]1 ! ladies retir$ to ! b[] & ! m5 settl$ d[n to dr9k+4 ,sometimes ! tables 7 b>e1 at o!r times cov]$ ) a table-clo?4 ,"s ,,mss4 %[ a circul> table arrang$ = ! meal4 ,on ! table appe> ! r\nd cakes :i* s]v$ ! ,saxons z bread1 also di%es conta9+ meat1 fi%1 & o!r food4 ,a few spoons & razor-%ap$ knives1 & dr9k+ vessels ( v>y+ sizes & %apes1 7 also plac$ ^u ! table4 ,:ile ! meal 0 9 progress1 w&]+ m9/rels play$ on _! in/rum5ts & sang2 juggl]s & conjur]s delight$ _! patrons ) feats ( balanc+ & sleight-(-h&2 :ile o!rs danc$ & po/ur$1 or exhibit$ ! feats ( danc+ be>s & o!r animals t !y l$ ab\t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ac4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a d9n] p>ty /&+ at a long table4 7,aft] ,/rutt47 ,,ms41 ,claud4 ,b4 v4 7,fig4 #b73 ,a d9n] p>ty seat$ ar\nd a circul> table ) embroid]$ curta9s beh9d !m1 & s]v+ m5 wait+ ^u !m4 7,aft] ,/rutt47 ,cott4 ,,ms4 ,tib]ius ,cvi4 7,fig4 #c73 ,a ,saxon b$4 7,aft] ,/rutt47 ,,ms41 ,claud4 ,b4 iv4 ,an ap>tm5t call$ ! b[] or bur 0 us$ *iefly by ! wom5 & *ildr5 = sleep+ & dwell+ 94 ,sometimes !re 7 recesses 9 ! wall1 cov]$ by curta9s1 & 9 ^! ! b$s 7 plac$4 ,! b$ furniture consi/$ ( bol/]1 pill[s1 cov]lets1 & %eets1 &1 z f> z c be ga!r$ f ! ,,mss41 ! %eets 7 wrapp$ ab\t ! nak$ body4 7,fig4 #d73 ,a danc+ girl ) musicians4 7,aft] ,/rutt47 ,cott4 ,,ms41 ,cleopatra ,c4 viii4 ,9 ,,mss41 wom5 are repres5t$ almo/ inv>iably ) ! head cov]$ by a hood or head-veil ev5 :5 !y h retir$ to re/ 7,fig4 #c71 & we may assume t x 0 consid]$ disgraceful = a woman to appe> 9 public ) ! head b>e4 ,:5 wom5 are repres5t$ ) ! head uncov]$ !y are p ^: call+ 0 consid]$ m or less ( a que/ionable "*1 z danc]s1 /roll+ play]s1 etc4 7,fig4 #e73 ,a lab\r] ?re%+ corn ) a flail4 7,f a ,,ms4 aft] ,/rutt47 ,,saxon ,,f>m+4 ,bo? ^! figures are tak5 f an ,old ,engli% cal5d> ( ! elev5? c5tury 7aft] ,/rutt74 ,cott4 ,,ms41 ,julius ,a4 vi4 ,?is cal5d> is arrang$ z 9 a mod]n almanack1 ) a page to ea* mon? & a l9e to ea* day4 ,at ! foot ( ea* page !re is a draw+1 typical ( ! "w c>ri$ on dur+ t mon?4 ,illu/ration3 ,plate #ad4 7,fig4 #a73 ,janu>y4 ,?is mon? 0 call$ by ! ,engli%1 :5 hea!n1 8,wolf-mona?10 because ! wolves 7 mo/ tr\blesome at ?is p]iod ( ! ye>4 ,:5 ! ,engli% became ,*ri/ians x 0 call$ 8,aeft]-,yule10 i4e41 ,aft]-,*ri/mas4 ,"h !re is a pl\gh+ sc5e4 ,f\r ox5 yok$ toge!r 9 c\ples are draw+ a pl\gh ( a v solid-look+ type4 7,9 ^? days horses 7 n employ$ 9 f>m "w47 ,a f>m-h&1 b>e-head$1 b>e-foot$1 & we>+ only a s+le g>m5t1 is goad+ ! ox5 ) a %>p-po9t$ ox-goad1 simil> to a long spe> 9 appe>ance4 ,a man 9 sup]ior attire is guid+ ! pl\gh1 :ile ano!r is scatt]+ se$ z ! pl\gh passes4 ,a good repres5tation ( ! pl\gh ( t p]iod is %[n "h4 7,fig4 #b73 ,augu/4 ,?is mon? 0 call$ by ! ,engli% 8,arn-mone?0 or 8,b>n-mone?10 i4e41 8h>ve/-mon?40 ,?is draw+ gives a repres5tation ( a f>m wagon ( good con/ruction1 & ( ! co/umes ( ! work]s1 :o appe> to be ( at lea/ two grades--"s b>e-foot$1 we>+ a s+le g>m5t1 :ile o!rs h bett]-cut g>m5ts1 & we> %oes & /ock+s 9 addition4 ,at ! head ( a p>ty is a man ) a spe> 9 8 "r h&1 bl[+ a horn1 :o may be ei!r sup]9t5d+ ! "w or may be ! 8advance gu>d0 ( a hunt+ p>ty ent]+ ! field4 ,! implem5ts1 sickles1 & =ks appe> to be v simil> to ^? 9 use at ! pres5t "t4 ,,saxon ,,antiquities4 ,illu/ration3 ,plate #ae4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a long ,saxon dr9k+ glass1 ornam5t$ ) rais$ & decorat$ ribbons ( glass4 ,! bottom is r\nd$1 s t :5 fill$ ) liquid x _h to be empti$ at "o draught4 7,briti% ,museum47 7,fig4 #b73 ,ano!r =m ( ,saxon dr9k+ vessel4 7,briti% ,museum47 7,fig4 #c73 ,old ,engli% bronze vessel f\nd 9 a b>r[ at ,tapl[1 9 ,bucks1 9 #ahhc1 n[ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 7,fig4 #d73 ,a silv] spoon 7,anglo-,saxon7 f\nd at ,sev+ton1 9 ,wilt%ire1 9 #ahcd4 7,briti% ,museum47 7,fig4 #e73 ,great ,seal ( ,edw>d ! ,confessor4 ,! ,k+ is repres5t$ cr[n$ & seat$ ^u ! ?rone1 be>+ ! sceptre 9 8 "r h& & ! orb 9 8 left4 ,edw>d "h calls himself 8,by ! ,grace ( ,god1 ,k+ ( ! ,engli%10 us+ ! ,greek & n ! ,lat9 t]m4 7,figs4 #f & #g73 ,a silv] p5ny ( ,alfr$ ! ,great1 m9t$ at ,london--7#f7 ! obv]se be>+ ,alfr$'s portrait & "n2 7#g7 ! rev]se ) ! ^w 8,lond9i0 7z a monogram74 7,figs4 #h & #i73 ,a silv] p5ny ( ,edg> ! ,peaceful--7#h7 ! obv]se2 7#i7 ! rev]se4 7,figs4 #aj1 #aa1 & #ab73 ,?ree views ( ,k+ ,alfr$'s jewel4 ,?is 0 f\nd ne> ! site ( ,a!lney ,abbey1 ,som]set%ire1 9 #afic4 ,fig4 #aj1 ! obv]se1 is fac$ ) an oval plate ( cry/al1 hav+ "u x a m9iature ( a man1 9 enamell$ mosaic 7probably ,/4 ,neot1 ,alfr$'s special protector71 hold+ 9 ea* h& a fleur-de-lys4 ,fig4 #aa1 ! rev]se1 is a deta*$ plate ( gold be>+ a fleur-de-lys ornam5t4 ,fig4 #ab1 ! edge1 on :i* is inscrib$ 8,,aelfr$ ,,mec ,,heht ,,gewyrcan0 7,alfr$ bid me be wr\ght74 ,! /alk end be>s a grotesque figure1 app>5tly ! head ( a sea mon/]4 ,x may h be5 ! head ( a /ylus or p51 or h s]v$ z a /&>d 9 battle4 7,a%molean ,museum1 ,ox=d47 7,fig4 #ac73 ,an ornam5t$ fibula or broo* at ,goldsbor\gh1 ,york%ire4 7,briti% ,museum47 7,fig4 #ad73 ,an ,anglo-,saxon comb--,/4 ,cu?b]t's comb1 at ,durham ,ca!dral4 ,,dani% ,,vessels1 ,etc4 ,illu/ration3 ,plate #af4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a ,norseman's boat f\nd 9 a peat bog at ,nydam1 9 ,s\? ,jutl&1 9 #ahfc4 ,x is cl9*]-built ( oak1 is l>ge1 op5 & po9t$ at bo? ends1 & is design$ only = r[+1 z !re is no trace ( a ma/ & no arrangem5t = /epp+ "o4 ,x is #gh ft4 betwe5 ! high po9ts at ! /em & ! /]n1 & #aj ft4 #i 94 broad amid%ips4 ,x 0 r[$ ) f\rte5 pairs ( o>s1 :i* are l ^? /ill us$ 9 ! ,nor?1 & are #aa ft4 #b 94 long4 ,! rudd] is n>r[1 & 0 fa/5$ to "o side ( ! boat ne> ! /]n end4 ,dur+ ! latt] "p ( ! hea!n times1 boats 7 drawn up on l& = ! w9t] or :5 !y 7 n want$ = "s "t4 ,?is boat has holes at ! ends = ! ropes by :i* x 0 haul$ up on l&4 7,montelius' 8,civilization ( ,sw$5407 7,fig4 #b73 ,a ,dani% vessel recon/ruct$ f a repres5tation ( a ,dani% %ip f ! ,,ms4 ( ,ca$mon ,bodl4 ,junius ii41 c4 ,a4,d4 #ajjj4 ,x is /e]$1 l ! "o 9 ,fig4 #a1 by a rudd] fa/5$ ne> ! /]n ( ! %ip on ! side /ill call$ ! />bo>d or /e]-bo>d4 7,fig4 #c73 ,noah's ,ark4 ,ano!r draw+ f ! same ,,ms4 ,! ,ark is repres5t$ 9 ! =m ( a ,dani% %ip1 %[+ ! dragon's head at ! b[s & ! /]n4 ,x is int]e/+1 also1 z x illu/rates ! fact t :5 ! old illum9ators want$ to repres5t any circum/ance--,biblical or classical--pictorially1 !y made use ( ! mat]ial !y saw ar\nd !m1 copy+ ! build+s1 ! %ips1 ! p]sons1 & ! co/umes ( _! own "t1 s t ,,mss4 =m v reliable contempor>y evid5ce ( ^! ?+s4 7,fig4 #d73 ,a ,dani% sword f\nd 9 ! ,riv] ,)alm1 v simil> 9 g5]al design & con/ruction to ! ,saxon sword illu/rat$ on ,plate #i4 7,fig4 #e73 ,a ,juti% or ,dani% %ield1 made ( wood ) a bronze rim & a boss or umbo ( bronze 9 ! c5tre1 ( ! p]iod be=e ,a4,d4 #dej1 f\nd 9 ,jutl&4 ,,norman ,,cu/oms4 ,! ord9>y co/umes ( p 9 e>ly ,norman times diff]$ little f t ( ! ,saxons4 ,at fir/ ! ,norman w>riors 7 clean-%av51 b aft] settl+ 9 ,engl& ! c\rti]s gave way to a love ( f9]y4 ,!y wore long1 embroid]$ g>m5ts ) long :ite sleeves1 & !y all[$ _! hair & be>ds to gr[ long s t !y incurr$ ! reproa* ( ! cl]gy1 :o call$ !m 8fil?y goats40 ,! ,norman ladies also *ang$ f ! simplicity ( _! co/ume to a great extravagance ( %ape & mat]ial4 ,! g[ns 7 v ample1 & 7 sometimes worn ) a k9d ( tra94 ,! g5]al g>m5ts ( ! m5 7 ! tunic1 ! sup]-tunic1 & ! mantle4 ,! upp] classes wore a g>m5t next to ! sk91 "u ! tunic1 call$ ! j-au-corps2 b among/ ! l[] classes ! tunic 0 worn next to ! sk94 ,! ,tunic 0 made ( l95 or clo?1 _h %ort sleeves1 & rea*$ at fir/ to ! knees1 b lat] to ! gr\nd4 ,ov] ?is 0 worn a sup]-tunic correspond+ to ! ,saxon tunica1 ) tight sleeves1 rea*+ to ! wri/1 & subject to ! same modification z ! tunic4 ,! mantle 0 simil> to ! ,saxon mantle1 b 0 full]4 ,9 lat] ,norman times x 0 made ( ! f9e/ clo?1 & 0 l9$ ) ri* furs4 ,!re 7 sev]al =ms ( cap1 z illu/rat$ 9 ! plate4 ,! l[] limbs 7 cov]$ ) a k9d ( tr\s]s call$ *ausses4 ,! %oes 9 e>ly ,norman times 7 q pla91 b lat] !y 7 v elaborate1 col\r$1 & _h po9t$ toes4 ,! co/ume ( ,norman ladies consi/$ ( a robe1 a mantle1 & a c\vre-*ef4 ,! robe 0 worn ) long sleeves1 & 9 lat] times ) long p5dul\s /rips at ! wri/s1 (t5 ( su* a l5g? t !y _h to be ti$ into knots to keep !m f trail+ on ! gr\nd4 ,! skirt ( ! robe 0 long1 full1 & hung 9 folds on ! gr\nd4 ,! mantle 0 worn ov] ! robe1 & ! head 0 cov]$1 z 9 ,saxon times1 ) a head-veil1 :i* 0 n[ call$ ! c\vre-*ef4 ,! hair 0 worn plait$ into two long tails4 ,f illu/rations 9 ,,mss4 x is se5 t ! co/umes ( ! l[] classes dur+ ,norman times 7 simil> to ^? worn dur+ ! ?ree prec$+ c5turies4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ag4 7,fig4 #a73 ,! figure ( ,que5 ,matilda1 wife ( ,h5ry ,i4 ,! sculptur$ effigies ( ^! two sov]eigns are ! e>lie/ ( ^? ( ,engli% sov]eigns 9 exi/5ce1 & are at ,ro*e/] ,ca!dral4 ,!y are mutilat$1 b /ill %[ cle>ly ! details ( royal co/ume4 ,9 ! figure ( ,matilda ! hair is plait$ into two tails4 ,%e we>s a long robe gird$ at ! wai/ & hav+ long sleeves4 ,ov] ?is %e we>s a long mantle4 7,fig4 #b73 ,co/ume ( a "y man ( ! middle classes4 7,repres5t+ ,david ) a sl+ 9 ,cott4 ,,ms41 ,n]o ,c#d47 ,he we>s a long tunic rea*+ to ! ankles1 hav+ a coll>1 long cuffs ext5d+ ne>ly to ! elb[1 & an embroid]$ bord] along ! bottom4 ,he also we>s tight-fitt+ *ausses1 & ! l[] p>ts ( 8 legs are cov]$ ei!r ) high boots or ) leg b&ages4 7,fig4 #c73 ,co/ume ( an old] man4 7,f ! same ,,ms41 repres5t+ ,noah ) an axe ab\t to build ! ,ark47 ,he we>s a ,phrygian hat ) a b& ar\nd x1 a long1 full tunic ) hang+ sleeves1 & a gre5 mantle bord]$ ) gold ?r[n ov] x4 ,he appe>s to be we>+ /ock+s rea*+ to ! knees1 & 8 %oes are ornam5t$ ) diagonal l9es cross+ ea* o!r4 ,he has long hair & a m\/a*e & be>d4 ,?is is consid]$ to be a good example ( ! ord9>y co/ume ( ! "t4 7,figs4 #d & #e73 ,examples ( a cov]+ = ! l[] "p ( ! leg4 7,f ! same ,,ms47 7,fig4 #d73 ,a swa?+ = ! leg worn by %eph]ds1 simil> 9 appe>ance to ! hay b&s ( ! mod]n c>t]4 7,fig #e73 ,%[s a leg ( ! bree*es ornam5t$ ) diagonal /ripes end+ at ! ankle1 :]e !re is a b& or g>t]4 ,no %oes are worn1 z frequ5tly appe>s to h be5 ! case :5 p]sons 7 on a j\rney4 7,fig4 #f73 ,a sock or half-boot ornam5t$ ar\nd ! top4 7,fig4 #g73 ,a ,norman %oe ) /ock+4 7,fig4 #h73 ,a %oe ( lat] ,norman times1 decorat$ ) b&s & col\r$4 7,fig4 #i73 ,po9t$ milit>y %oe f a seal4 7,figs4 #aj1 #aa1 #ab1 #ac73 ,! f\r commone/ =ms ( head-dress 9 use4 7,fig4 #ac73 ,%[s t call$ ! c[l4 7,fig4 #ad73 ,figure ( a ,norman lady %[+ ! robe ) long sleeves1 ! mantle1 & ! c\vre-*ef4 ,,norman ,,arms ,,& ,,arm\r4 ,! milit>y co/umes ( ! e>ly ,normans & ! ,saxons 7 v simil> on acc\nt ( ! int]c\rse betwe5 ! ,c\rts ( ,engl& & ,norm&y at ! "t imm$iately prec$+ ! ,conque/1 & mu* ( our k ( ,norman milit>y co/ume is obta9$ f ! ,bayeux ,tape/ry4 ,! arms 9 use among ! ,normans 7 ! sword 7:i* only soldi]s ( sup]ior rank 7 all[$ to c>ry71 ! axe1 ! lance or spe>1 ! mace1 & ! b[ & arr[s4 ,! sword 01 z might be expect$1 ( ! same type z ! ,dani% or ,norse sword--/raight1 long1 & d\ble-edg$1 ) a slight tap] to ! acute po9t4 ,! scabb>d 0 worn on ! left side1 & 0 susp5d$ by a cord or /rap ar\nd ! wai/4 ,! axe 0 ( v>i\s =ms1 z may be se5 f ! plate4 ,! lance or spe> 0 g5]ally simil> to t us$ by ! ,saxons1 b _h a p5non ) sev]al po9ts4 ,sometimes sev]al lances 7 c>ri$1 & 7 probably ?r[n z javel9s4 ,! mace is depict$ sev]al times 9 ! ,bayeux ,tape/ry4 ,! b[ & arr[s play$ an important "p 9 ! ,battle ( ,ha/+s1 & 7 ( ! =m us$ by ! ,saxons4 ,! def5sive arm\r consi/$ ( ! helmet1 ! haub]k1 & ! %ield4 ,! helmet 0 g5]ally conical 9 %ape1 ) a nasal or nose-piece ( iron to gu>d ! =ehead & nose aga9/ a horizontal /roke4 ,! nasal 0 fix$ or movable4 ,sometimes !re 0 a peak beh9d ! helmet to protect ! neck4 ,! nasal 0 g5]ally disc>d$ ab\t #aadj4 ,! haub]k1 or milit>y tunic1 0 a g>m5t 9 "o piece1 fitt+ almo/ tightly to ! p]son & rea*+ to ! knees1 ) sleeves rea*+ to ! elb[4 ,occasionally x appe>s to h end$ 9 close-fitt+ tr\s]s at ! knee4 ,! haub]k 0 ( quilt$ & padd$ mat]ial or ( lea!r1 cov]$ ) metal r+s or plates or /uds ( metal & lea!r1 & =m$ a v effective body arm\r4 ,! plat$ or mail$ tunic ( ,william ,i4 & 8 foll[]s 0 sup]s$$ e>ly 9 ! twelf? c5tury by a def5sive haub]k1 cov]$1 z be=e1 ) v>i\s /raps & plates ( metal1 or m g5]ally =m$ ( int]wov5 r+ or *a9 mail4 ,! legs & feet 7 envelop$ 9 simple b&ages or fillets b\nd ar\nd !m4 ,! %ield complet$ ! def5sive equipm5t1 & 0 g5]ally long1 r\nd$ or oval at ! top1 ) a po9t$ base1 s t ! %ape resembl$ t ( a kite4 ,_m ( !m 7 decorat$ 7accord+ to ! ,bayeux ,tape/ry74 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ah4 7,figs4 #a & #b73 ,! ord9>y co/umes ( ,norman soldi]s4 ,ea* is clo!d 9 a milit>y haub]k1 :i* fitt$ ! body v closely1 & 0 probably slit a little be=e & beh9d4 ,9 ! case ( ^! two ! haub]k ends 9 close-fitt+ tr\s]s to ! knee4 ,! heads are protect$ by conical helmets ) nasal pieces1 fitt+ ov] hoods ( mail4 ,9 ,fig4 #a ! w>rior is arm$ ) a sword1 an axe1 & a spe>4 ,! %ield is ( ! kite %ape4 ,! haub]k is cov]$ ) r+$ mail1 & ! sleeves rea* to ! wri/4 ,9 ,fig4 #b ! sleeves rea* to ! elb[ only1 & are cov]$ ) r+s1 b ! body is cov]$ ) :at is kn[n z 8trellis$0 arm\r1 =m$ ( /rips ( lea!r fa/5$ on a body ( quilt$ clo? & cross+ ea* o!r diagonally1 ) knobs ( /eel fa/5$ 9 ! angul> spaces z an additional protection4 ,he holds 9 8 h& a gonfanon or lance ) a small flag--c>ri$ only by ! lead]s ( ! army4 7,fig4 #c73 ,a ,norman sword4 7,f ! ,bayeux ,tape/ry47 7,fig4 #d73 ,two ,norman soldi]s1 ea* c>ry+ a decorat$ %ield & spe>1 "o be+ arm$ ) a sword4 ,ea* we>s a flat-topp$ helmet1 "o only be+ fitt$ ) a 8nasal40 ,! %ield ( ! "r-h& "o is curv$ to ! =m ( ! body4 ,! haub]ks ( mail are %[n1 & also ! tunics worn "u !m rea*+ ne>ly to ! knee4 7,figs4 #e & #f73 ,norman axes4 7,f ! ,bayeux ,tape/ry47 7,fig4 #g73 ,a ,norman ar*]4 7,f ! ,bayeux ,tape/ry47 ,dress$ 9 a close-fitt+ ve/ ) n>r[ sleeves1 & full bree*es1 ga!r$ app>5tly above & bel[ ! knee1 & ornam5t$ ) l>ge r$ spots4 ,he c>ries a quiv] ( arr[s slung ov] 8 back4 ,o!r ar*]s are repres5t$ 9 ! ,tape/ry fully dress$ 9 r+$ mail4 7,fig4 #h73 ,! head ( a m\nt$ soldi]4 7,f ! ,bayeux ,tape/ry47 ,a peculi> cu/om exi/$ among ! ,normans at ! ,conque/ ( %av+ ! back ( ! head z well z ! face4 ,:5 spies s5t by ,h>old reconnoitr$ ! ,norman camp1 !y saw ! ,normans ) %av5 heads1 & !y return$ ) ! news t 8! ,duke _h f> m prie/s ?an knights or o!r troops40 7,fig4 #i73 ,guy1 ,c\nt ( ,pon?ieu4 7,f ! ,bayeux ,tape/ry47 ,he is arm$ ) an axe1 & we>s a haub]k ( scale arm\r4 ,^! scales 7 ei!r ( iron1 bronze1 or cuir b\illi4 7,! latt] 0 lea!r :i* _h be5 s(t5$ by boil+ 9 oil & /amp$ or m\ld$ into a def9ite =m :ile 9 t condition4 ,:5 x 0 dry x became v h>d & t\gh47 ,he also we>s a mantle ga!r$ on ! "r %\ld]1 b has no head cov]+4 ,,! ,,bayeux ,,tape/ry4 ,! ,bayeux ,tape/ry is a valuable picture ( ! mann]s & co/umes ( ! ,normans & ! ,engli% ab\t ! "t ( ! ,norman ,conque/4 ,x is traditionally record$ to h be5 work$ by ,que5 ,matilda 7! wife ( ,william ! ,conqu]or7 & ! ladies ( h] ,c\rt1 to commemorate ! invasion & conque/ ( ,engl& by h] husb&4 ,!re is no evid5ce to prove ?is1 & consequ5tly !re is mu* d\bt ab\t x2 b x is held on ! be/ au?ority t ?\gh ! ,tape/ry is a contempor>y "w1 ,que5 ,matilda _h no "p 9 its manufacture1 s9ce x 0 probably ord]$ = 8 ca!dral by ,bi%op ,odo 7! half-bro!r ( ,william ,i471 & made by ,norman work]s at ,bayeux4 ,x is pres]v$ 9 ! ,hotel-de-,ville at ,bayeux1 & consi/s ( a long b& ( l95 ab\t #bca ft4 long & #bj 94 wide4 ,x is divid$ into #gb sc5es or comp>tm5ts1 sep>at$ f "o ano!r by trees or build+s1 work$ 9 ! mat]ial 9 a conv5tional mann]4 ,on x are repres5t$ #fbc p1 #bjb horses & mules1 #ee dogs1 #eje o!r animals1 #cg build+s1 #da %ips & boats1 & #di trees1 mak+ a total ( #a1eab objects4 ,x has always be5 kn[n z 8tape/ry10 b x is really an enorm\s piece ( woolwork or embroid]y1 yet x has be5 kn[n s long by ! previ\s "n t x w probably cont9ue to be> x4 ,no attempt has be5 made to depict ! figures 9 _! natural col\rs1 = we f9d horses col\r$ yell[1 r$1 blue1 & gre51 & p]spective has be5 totally disreg>d$4 ,b 8if ! draw+ be rude1 ! composition is bold & spirit$1 & is always r5d]$ ) great tru? ( expression1 :i* is1 at times1 exagg]at$40 ,! n>r[ bord] :i* runs along bo? ! top & ! bottom ( ! ,tape/ry 7,pl4 #ai1 ,fig4 #c7 is = ! great] "p n connect$ ) ! ?read ( ! /ory1 & is decorat$ ) animals1 real & fabul\s1 & sc5es ( husb&ry & ! *ase2 b 9 "s p>ts x conta9s allegorical allusions to ! sc5es depict$4 ,ov] mo/ ( ! sc5es are work$ ,lat9 inscriptions 9 ,roman capitals ab\t an in* high1 expla9+ ! pictures4 ,! reasons = suppos+ t1 al?\gh n made by ,matilda1 x is nev]!less contempor>y "w1 are3 7#a7 ,! accurate repres5tation ( ! civil & milit>y co/umes ( ! elev5? c5tury4 7#b7 ,! attempt to repres5t ,edw>d ! ,confessor & ,william ,i4 z !y appe>$ on _! seals4 7#c7 ,c]ta9 words us$ 9 x sugge/ an ,engli% orig91 b admit ( ! explanation t ! dialect spok5 9 ,bayeux 0 a mixture ( ,saxon & ,norman4 7#d7 ,! prom95ce giv5 to ,odo & to less-kn[n p]sons4 7#e7 ,! introduction ( ! local =m ( w9e b>rel & c]ta9 dialectic peculi>ities ( ! di/rict4 ,! ,bayeux ,tape/ry is n m5tion$ 9 any hi/orical docum5t until #adgf1 :5 x appe>s among an inv5tory ( ! ornam5ts ( ! ,ca!dral ( ,bayeux4 ,9 #aebb its safety 0 ?reat5$ by ! ,calv9i/s :o pillag$ ! ca!dral1 b x 0 re/or$ to ! au?orities & 0 us$ to decorate ! nave on fe/ive occasions4 ,x rema9$ =gott5 till #agbd1 :51 a draw+ hav+ be5 made ( x by an antiqu>ian1 public int]e/ 0 ar\s$ 9 x1 bo? 9 ,france & 9 our own c\ntry4 ,9 ord] to pres]ve x1 x 0 l9$ & /r5g!n$1 = x 0 us$ to decorate ! nave = eight days at ! "t ( ,/4 ,john's ,day4 ,x has pass$ ?r\gh _m vicissitudes1 & once or twice x 0 ne>ly de/roy$1 b a numb] ( ! lead+ inhabitants ( ,bayeux =m$ !mselves into a committee to protect x4 ,napoleon ,i4 w5t to see x1 & 0 mu* impress$ by x :5 x 0 exhibit$ 9 ,p>is4 ,x 0 aft]w>ds return$ to ,bayeux1 :]e x 0 visit$ by ,mr4 ,*>les ,/o?>d1 a clev] & accurate "y arti/1 & at ! reque/ ( ! ,society ( ,antiqu>ies ( ,london he made draw+s ( x1 ! "w occupy+ him = two ye>s4 ,9 #ahdb ! ,municipal ,c\ncil ( ,bayeux provid$ a p]man5t re/+ place = ! ,tape/ry 9 ! ,hotel de ,ville1 :]e x is /ill exhibit$ "u glass1 & :]e x has be5 visit$ by arti/s & ar*ologi/s f e "p ( ! _w4 ,dur+ ! ,franco-,g]man w> x 0 tak5 d[n1 seal$ 9 a z9c cyl9d]1 & hidd5 away till all dang] 0 pa/4 ,9 #ahga p]mission 0 giv5 to ! ,engli% ,gov]nm5t to make a photographic reproduction ( ! ,tape/ry1 & a copy ( ?is full-siz$ reproduction1 col\r$ aft] ! orig9al1 is n[ pres]v$ at ,s\? ,k5s+ton4 ,! ,tape/ry comm5ces ) a picture ( ,edw>d ! ,confessor1 & cont9ues ) sc5es illu/rat+ ,h>old's visit to ,norm&y2 8 capture & appe>ance be=e ,william2 8 tak+ ! oa? ( allegiance to ,william2 8 return to ,engl& & to ,edw>d ! ,confessor2 ! dea? ( ! latt]2 ! cr[n+ ( ,h>old2 ! prep>ations made by ,william 7build+ %ips1 assembl+ soldi]s1 collect+ food & arms7 = ! invasion ( ,engl&2 ! passage ( ! ,engli% ,*annel2 ! l&+ at ,pev5sey2 ! m>* to ,ha/+s2 ! prep>ations = ! fight2 a long & spirit$ picture ( ! battle1 illu/rat+ v>i\s incid5ts 9 x & culm9at+ 9 ! dea? ( ,h>old & ! flight ( ! defeat$ ,engli%4 7,! writ] wi%es to express 8 great obligation = ! above to ,mr4 ,frank ,r4 ,f[ke's v complete "w on ,! ,bayeux ,tape/ry4 ,geo4 ,bell & ,sons47 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ai4 ,! figures illu/rate ! foll[+ sc5es3 7,fig4 #a73 ,duke ,william came to ,pev5sey4 ,a v cle> idea is obta9$ ( ! g5]al "* ( a ,norman %ip & ! mann] 9 :i* x is /e]$ by an o> on ! />bo>d 7/e]-bo>d7 side1 etc4 ,?is %ip1 ! ,mora1 be>+ ,william1 0 giv5 him by ,matilda1 8 wife1 & be>s on ! /]n an effigy ( 8 little son ,rufus1 bl[+ a bugle & hold+ a bann]4 7,fig4 #b73 ,h>old made an oa? to ,duke ,william4 ,william is %[n seat$ on a ?rone :ile ,h>old1 "o h& on an alt> & ! o!r on a reliqu>y conta9+ ! sacr$ relics1 is tak+ ! oa?4 7,fig4 #c73 ,a sc5e 9 ! ,battle ( ,ha/+s4 ,! ,engli% ,army )/&+ ! *>ge ( ! ,norman horsem5 aft] receiv+ a flight ( ,norman arr[s4 ,mo/ ( ! ,engli% are arm$ ) javel9s & %ields1 few ) axes & swords4 ,"o figure is %[n us+ ! b[1 & he is ! only "o ?us arm$ on ! ,engli% side4 ,x has consequ5tly be5 ass]t$ by "s au?orities t b[s 7 n us$ by ! ,engli% 9 ! battle1 b1 z ,mr4 ,f[ke says1 8?is seems to be h>dly correct lit]ally 444 ?\gh 444 ! use ( ! b[ z a weapon ( w> 9 our c\ntry 0 !n probably r>e40 ,?is sc5e %[s ! :ole wid? ( ! ,tape/ry ) ! two bord]s1 ! upp] conta9+ allegorical figures1 & ! latt] display+ ! fall5 w>riors4 ,x may be not$ t ?r\gh\t ! picture ( ! battle ! arms & acc\trem5ts ( bo? ,normans & ,engli% are simil>1 probably acc\nt$ = by ! close intimacy t exi/$ betwe5 ! two c\ntries4 7,fig4 #d73 ,"h is seat$ ,h>old1 ,k+ ( ! ,engli%2 ,ar*bi%op ,/ig&4 ,h>old 0 cr[n$ 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey on ! same day t ,edw>d 0 buri$ 9 ! same build+4 ,he is repres5t$ seat$ on ! ?rone1 we>+ ! cr[n on 8 head & hold+ ! sceptre 9 8 "r h& & ! orb 9 ! left4 ,/ig&1 :o1 ! ,normans allege1 cr[n$ ,h>old1 is %[n /&+ at 8 left side4 ,,e>ly ,,norman ,,ar*itecture4 ,norman1 ,anglo-,norman1 or ,romanesque ar*itecture 0 call$ by ! =m] "n because x foll[$ ! ,norman /yle4 ,x is f\nd 9 ,norm&y itself1 9 ,engl&1 9 ,italy1 & ,sicily--9 fact1 :]ev] ! ,nor!rn conqu]ors e/abli%$ !mselves4 ,its *ief *>act]i/ics are solidity & /r5g?--walls ( enorm\s ?ickness1 huge masses ( masonry = pi]s1 w9d[s comp>atively small1 & a pr(usion ( peculi> ornam5ts4 ,! e>lie/ ,norman "w 9 ,engl&--z ! transepts ( ,w9*e/] ,ca!dral--is almo/ z pla9 z ,anglo-,saxon2 b ! ,norman *ur*es are l>g] & high] ?an ^? ( ! ,anglo-,saxon p]iod4 ,!y are g5]ally cruci=m 9 %ape1 ) a squ>e t[] ov] ! int]section ( ! nave & transepts4 ,! t[]s are n l(ty1 b are v solid1 & usually conta9 w9d[s ) two lights4 ,9 a numb] ( in/ances ! *oir ends 9 a semi-circul> apse aft] ! ,roman /yle4 ,e>ly ,norman "w 0 mu* pla9] ?an t ( ! lat] p]iod2 ! ar* is n recess$1 or only once recess$1 ! edges are squ>e1 or h a pla9 r\nd m\ld+ cut 9 !m1 & ! zigzag ornam5t 7,pl4 #bj1 ,fig4 #ad7 is us$1 ?\gh n s abundantly z at a lat] p]iod4 ,w9d[s are g5]ally pla91 small1 & r\nd-head$1 & consi/ ( s+le lights except 9 belfry w9d[s4 ,doors are squ>e-head$ "u a r\nd ar*4 ,! simple/ =m is a n>r[1 r\nd-head$ op5+ ) a pla9 drip/one4 ,b ,norman w9d[s are n met ) z frequ5tly z doors1 s9ce !y h1 9 _m cases1 be5 de/roy$ to make room = ^? ( lat] /yles4 ,9 ,engl& ! ,norman /yle is usually assign$ to ! elev5? c5tury1 & 9 ! latt] half ( x ! transition to ! ,e>ly ,engli% /yle took place4 ,x 0 introduc$ into ,engl& 9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ! ,confessor1 :o 0 m ,norman ?an ,engli%1 & :o himself f\nd$ ! ,abbey ( ,we/m9/]4 ,"s build+s 7 ( a mix$ "* 7,anglo-,saxon & ,norman71 "s 9 ! old /yle1 o!rs altoge!r 9 ! new4 ,soon aft] ! ,norman ,conque/1 ! ,norman ,bi%ops :o supplant$ ,engli%m5 9 ,engli% sees & abbacies 9 v _m in/ances comm5c$ to rebuild ! ca!drals & *ur*es f _! f\ndations4 ,! entire ,engli% fabric 0 usually pull$ d[n1 & a new build+ 0 erect$ on a mu* l>g] plan & 9 a bett] mann]4 ,x is *iefly 9 remote places1 :]e ! inhabitants 7 too few & too poor to rebuild & enl>ge _! *ur*es1 t we f9d rema9s ( ! orig9al ,anglo-,saxon "w4 ,e>ly ,norman masonry is v rude1 ! jo9ts betwe5 ! /ones be+ fill$ ) a great ?ickness ( mort>1 f "o to ?ree in*es ?ick 7?is is call$ 8wide-jo9t$0 masonry71 & ! /onework 0 usually rubble4 ,9 ! lat] "w ! jo9ts are comp>atively f9e 78f9e-jo9t$0 masonry74 ,! ,normans 7 v active build]s4 ,william ,i4 & 8 son1 ,william ,,ii41 built "o hundr$ & n9ety-five religi\s h\ses dur+ _! reigns1 & all ! ca!drals & great *ur*es 9 ! elev5? c5tury 7 rebuilt1 :ile _m new ones 7 f\nd$2 ?\gh x is said t ( ! _m *ur*es comm5c$ 9 ! reigns ( ^! two k+s b few 7 complet$ until aft] #aajj ,a4,d4 ,gundulph built ! ,ca!dral ( ,ro*e/]1 :ile c]ta9ly ,/4 ,albans & ,ely 7 also comm5c$ 9 ! reign ( ! ,conqu]or4 ,9 ! e>lie/ "w ! ornam5t 0 n *>act]is$ by ! same pr(usion s common 9 lat] "w4 ,x 0 %all[1 & cut ) ! axe1 z ! *isel 0 little us$ at t "t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bj4 7,fig4 #a73 ,pill> ) spiral flut+ 9 ,wal?am ,abbey 7f\nd$ by ,h>old ,,ii47 ,! spiral grooves 7 orig9ally fill$ ) *as$ & gilt metal4 ,( ! twelve pill>s 9 ! ,abbey two are ind5t$ spirally & two ) *evrons4 ,! o!rs are pla94 7,o!r in/ances ( ?is "w on ! pill>s may be f\nd at ,durham1 ,l9disf>ne1 & ,kirkby ,lonsdale74 ,! ar*es are decorat$ ) ! ind5t$ zigzag ornam5t4 7,fig4 #b73 ,flat ,norman buttress 7,iffley1 ,ox=d%ire74 ,! buttresses at fir/ 7 m]ely flat1 pila/]-l projections1 :olly devoid ( ornam5t4 7,figs4 #c to #h73 ,norman capitals4 ,^! 7 ei!r pla91 cubical masses ) ! l[] angles r\nd$ (f1 =m+ a rude cu%ion %ape 7,fig4 #c71 or !y h a rude k9d ( volute cut ^u ! edges ( ! angles 7,fig4 #h1 f ,/4 ,john's ,*apel 9 ! ,:ite ,t[]74 ,! scallop$ capitals 7,figs4 #f & #g7 belong to a lat] p]iod4 ,?is =m ( capital is mo/ common 9 all ! fir/ half ( ! twelf? c5tury4 ,! capital is ! memb] by :i* ! /yles are m easily di/+ui%$ ?an by any o!r4 ,! abacus 7,a1 ,fig4 #d7 is squ>e 9 section4 7,figs4 #i to #ad73 ,norman m\ld+s1 :i* 7 almo/ endless 9 v>iety4 ,!y 7 mo/ abundantly us$ 9 doorways & o!r ar*es & 9 horizontal /rips4 ,! mo/ g5]al is ! zigzag 7,fig4 #ad74 7,fig4 #i73 ,! />4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,! r\nd billet 7a squ>e billet is also us$74 7,fig4 #aa73 ,! billet & loz5ge4 7,fig4 #ab73 ,! beak-head4 7,fig4 #ac73 ,! bead c\rse4 7,fig4 #ad73 ,! zigzag or *evron4 7,fig4 #ae73 ,e>ly ,norman pi]1 recess$ at ! angles1 & squ>e edges1 9 ,/4 ,alban's ,abbey1 #ajhj ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #af73 ,norman doorway ) recess$ pill>s & decorat$ head1 at ,/4 ,m>y's1 ,%rewsbury4 7,fig4 #ag73 ,norman *amf]4 ,,lat] ,,norman ,,ar*itecture4 ,! ,e>li] p]iod ( ,norman ar*itecture may be approximately clos$ 9 #aabj ,a4,d4 7fifty-f\r ye>s aft] ! ,battle ( ,ha/+s74 ,9 ! ,lat] p]iod ! *isel took ! place ( ! axe 9 ! cutt+ ( ! ornam5t4 ,consequ5tly !re is a f95ess & a m f9i%$ /yle ( "w1 :i* c\ld n be execut$ ) ! latt] tool4 ,! ,lat] or ri* ,norman /yle is *iefly *>act]is$ by ! abundance ( ! ornam5t & ! deep cutt+4 ,sculpture1 :i* 0 sp>+ly us$ 9 ! e>li] "w1 0 frequ5tly add$ to x at a lat] p]iod1 & z ! /yle advanc$1 great] lightness & enri*m5t 7 introduc$4 ,x is said t ?r\gh ! ,crusades m5 saw ! ar*itecture ( _m cities1 & _! return f ! w>s 0 m>k$ by a /rik+ *ange n only 9 ! masonry1 b 9 ! "* & feel+ ( ,norman "w4 ,x is said1 also1 t ! ornam5ts 9 ,lat] ,norman "w & 9 ! ,transition p]iod :i* foll[$ (t5 p>took v mu* ( a ,greek1 ,byzant9e1 or ,ori5tal "*4 ,/4 ,b>?olomew's ,*ur*1 ,smi?field1 is a good specim5 ( ,norman "w4 ,x 0 ! *ur* ( ! ,augu/9ian ,priory1 f\nd$ #aabc ,a4,d4 by ,rah]e1 ! ,k+'s m9/rel4 ,! ri* doorways ( ?is p]iod =m "o ( ! mo/ important features ( ,lat] ,norman "w4 ,!y are consid]$ to be ! mo/ beautiful & *>act]i/ic specim5s :i* rema9 to u1 & ! mo/ elaborate workman%ip 0 be/[$ ^u !m by ! ,normans4 ,!y are g5]ally r\nd-head$ & v deeply recess$1 & frequ5tly h sev]al small %afts at ! sides ( ! doorway4 ,! tympanum or semi-circul> space above ! door )9 ! ar* is frequ5tly fill$ ) ri* sculpture 7,pl4 #ba1 ,fig4 #b74 ,! m\ld+s are ri*ly ov]laid ) ornam5t1 :i*1 ?\gh ( a peculi> & rude "*1 produces great ri*ness ( effect4 ,! we/ door ( ,ro*e/] ,ca!dral is a v /rik+ in/ance ( ?is4 ,! w9d[s are1 9 g5]al1 long & r n>r[1 r\nd-head$ op5+s4 ,_m ( !m 7 ornam5t$ v ri*ly 9 ! same mann] z ! doors ) zigzag & o!r m\ld+s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ba4 7,fig4 #a73 ,v ri* ,norman sculpture f ,%obdon ,*ur*1 ,h]e=d%ire1 ab\t #aahj ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #b73 ,s\? door1 ,kilpeck ,*ur*1 ,h]e=d%ire1 %[+ ! ri*ly ornam5t$ ar*1 ! decorat$ tympanum1 & ri*ly sculptur$ pill>s at ! sides4 7,figs4 #c & #d73 ,ornam5t$ capitals f ,york ,m9/]4 7,fig4 #e73 ,ornam5t$ capitals f ,/4 ,john's ,abbey1 ,*e/]4 7,fig4 #f73 ,capital pres]v$ 9 ! ,*apt] ,h\se ( ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 c>v$ ) ! /ory ( ! ,judgm5t ( ,solomon4 7,fig4 #g73 ,po9t$ ar* ) pure ,norman m\ld+s & scallop$ capitals f ,malmesbury ,abbey1 ,wilt%ire1 #aace-aaci ,a4,d4 ,x is g5]ally assum$ t all ,norman ar*es are r\nd1 b ! po9t$ ar*1 tak5 by itself1 is no pro( ( *ange ( /yle4 ,! semi-circul> ar* is ! *>act]i/ic =m ( ! ,norman ar*1 b !re are a few ,e>ly examples 9 :i* ! po9t$ ar* is us$1 support$ by massive pi]s4 7,figs4 #h & #i73 ,bases ( ,norman columns4 ,,norman ,,ca/les4 ,:5 ,duke ,william ( ,norm&y invad$ ,engl& 9 #ajff1 ! exi/+ type ( =tification call$ a burh 0 a moat$ hillock1 ei!r :olly or p>tly artificial1 surm\nt$ by a timb] /ockade enclos+ a wood5 h\se or t[]4 ,he repair$ & enl>g$ _m ( ! exi/+ /rongholds1 & also built _m new wood5 ca/les4 ,b 9 ord] to ov]awe ! conqu]$ ,engli% he erect$ 9 ! l>g] t[ns squ>e /one keeps or ca/les1 l ! ,:ite ,t[] 9 ! ,t[] ( ,london4 ,gundulph1 ,bi%op ( ,ro*e/]1 ! great ar*itect 9 ! reign ( ,william ,i41 built ! latt] 9 #ajha ,a4,d4 ,x is "o ( ! be/ examples t we h ( ,e>ly ,norman "w1 & is a huge quadrangul> /ructure m ?an #ajj ft4 squ>e1 built ( rudely c\rs$ rubble1 ) a va/ am\nt ( mort>4 ,_m ( ! exi/+ ,norman keeps 7 f\nd$ 9 ! reigns ( ,william ,i4 & ,william ,,ii41 b 7 rebuilt at a lat] p]iod4 ,^! keeps 7 usually squ>e or rectangul> t[]s ( /one 7n hav+ mu* height 9 proportion to ! bread?71 ) small1 slightly project+ squ>e turrets at ea* angle1 & "o or m flat buttresses up ! c5tre ( ea* face1 ) a divid+ wall pass+ up ?r\gh ! c5tre ( ! build+ f ! gr\nd4 7,pl4 #bb1 ,fig4 #c1 ,b ,c47 ,comp>atively speak+1 ! w9d[s 7 g5]ally small1 & ! walls exce$+ly ?ick4 ,^? ( ! ,:ite ,t[] are #ae ft41 & ( ,c>lisle ,ca/le #af ft4 ?ick4 ,! connect+ passages & /aircases 7 con/ruct$ 9 ! ?ickness ( ! masonry4 ,norwi* ,ca/le1 = its size1 is a p]fect type ( ! squ>e ,norman keep1 & ,ca/le ,h$+ham is ano!r4 ,_m magnific5t /one keeps 7 built or rebuilt 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,i41 su* z ,ro*e/]1 ,new>k1 ,corfe1 & ,*ep/[4 ,h5ry ,,ii4 0 also a great build] ( keeps1 & ^? ( ,dov]1 ,cant]bury1 ,sc>bor\gh1 & ,newca/le are %[n by ! ,pipe ,rolls to h be5 8 "w4 ,! solid>ity ( ! keep made x impregnable aga9/ ! siege op]ations ( ! day4 ,su* a build+ c\ld n be batt]$ d[n1 & at be/ x c\ld only be injur$ by und]m9+4 ,?is 0 done by remov+ ! e>? f an angle ( ! build+ & gradually introduc+ wood5 props4 ,a fire 0 !n k9dl$ ab\t !m1 & z ! props burnt ?r\gh1 ! wall fell4 ,! squ>e keep 0 foll[$ by ! polygonal & ! r\nd ones4 ,con+sburgh is circul>1 ,b]keley is circul> flank$ by f\r t[]s1 & ,ox=d is polygonal4 ,! base ( ! keep 0 g5]ally 8batt]$0--i4e41 slop$ outw>ds 7see ,fig4 #a7--to give a firm] f\ndation & also t x might bett] )/& ! op]ations ( ! sapp]4 ,v few ( ! exi/+ keeps h op5+s 9 ! l[] /oreys1 :i* 7 us$ ei!r z dungeons or /ore rooms1 & 7 only accessible by a trap-door f above4 ,g5]ally !re 7 two floors1 occasionally ?ree floors above ! basem5t4 ,"o ( ^! floors is assum$ to h be5 ! hall1 & 9 ! l>g] keeps ! floor above x may h be5 res]v$ = ! use ( ! ladies ( ! h\sehold4 ,9 ! latt] half ( ! twelf? c5tury small mural *amb]s1 probably = use z b$rooms1 became m frequ5t4 ,9 _m keeps !re 7 *apels1 b e "o conta9$ a well1 s t :5 besieg$ ! occupants w\ld n h to dep5d on outside s\rces = ! supply ( wat]4 ,dov] ,ca/le /ill has a well :i* is capable ( supply+ fre% wat]1 al?\gh ! keep is on ! summit ( a high cliff4 ,!re 7 no kit*5s 9 ,norman keeps1 z ! cook+ 0 ei!r done on ! ro( or 9 a special build+ 9 ! y>d4 ,fire-places 7 n inv>iable4 ,9 ! ,:ite ,t[]1 :]e = a long "t x 0 suppos$ t !re 7 no fireplaces1 holes 9 ! wall h be5 f\nd :i* probably answ]$ ! purpose ( *imneys4 ,!re 0 only "o entrance1 p]haps "s #bj feet above ! gr\nd1 sometimes approa*$ by a removable wood5 /aircase1 sometimes by a =e-build+ ) elaborate precautions = def5ce4 ,! only ornam5tation to be f\nd is at ! entrance doorway1 on ! /aircase1 or 9 ! *apel4 ,! keep soon _h out] def5ces add$ to x--dit*es1 palisades1 & out] walls ( masonry4 ,into ! out] def5ces ! cattle & /ores f ! surr\nd+ c\ntry w\ld be br\ght1 & ! dwell+s ( ! soldi]s ( ! g>rison1 toge!r ) ! dome/ic (fices & /ables1 7 erect$ )9 ^!4 ,x is m usual to f9d ! keep at "o end ?an 9 ! c5tre ( ! sy/em ( walls1 & ! :ole 0 surr\nd$ by a moat4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bb4 7,fig4 #a73 ,newca/le ,keep1 f\nd$ 9 #ajhj ,a4,d4 ,! battlem5ts are ( lat] date4 ,9 ?is keep !re is a l>ge room 9 ! ?ickness ( ! wall1 kn[n z ! ,k+'s ,*amb]1 & ano!r :i* is assign$ to ! ,que54 7,fig4 #b73 ,ro*e/] ,ca/le1 :i* 0 probably entirely rebuilt 9 ! twelf? c5tury on ano!r site4 ,! p>apet or battlem5ts are consid]$ to be ! orig9al ones4 7,fig4 #c73 ,plan ( ! middle floor ( ! ,:ite ,t[] 7,t[] ( ,london74 ,a is ,/4 ,john's ,*apel1 & ! circul> /airs are %[n 9 ! corn] t[]s1 ,d ,d ,d4 ,b ,c is ! p>t+ wall runn+ ?r\gh ! build+4 7,fig4 #d73 ,a ,norman ca/le4 7,f ,grose's 8,milit>y ,antiquities407 ,%[+ ! g5]al arrangem5ts ( ! build+s1 etc4 ,,norman ,,seals ,,& ,,co9s4 ,seals are held 9 ! highe/ e/imation z reliable contempor>y au?orities 9 ,engli% h]aldry1 co/ume1 arm\r1 etc4 ,! matrix or die 0 usually ( latt5 or bronze1 & 9 ! case ( l>ge seals two dies 7 us$--"o = ! front1 or obv]se1 ! o!r = ! back1 or rev]se--s t :5 complete ! seal 0 simil> to a co9 or m$al4 ,9 ! e>li] seals pure :ite beeswax 0 us$ z ! m$ium on :i* to impress ! seal1 & at o!r times ?is 0 col\r$--gre51 r$1 br[n1 & ne>ly black4 ,!re 7 two types ( seals--,plaqu seals1 ^? impress$ 9 wax direct on ! docum5t1 & ,p5dant seals1 9 :i* ! wax impression 0 susp5d$ by cords1 or a ribbon1 or /rip ( p>*m5t f ! docum5t4 7,figs4 #a1 #b1 #c74 ,great precautions 7 tak5 ) reg>d to ! ,royal ,seals1 or ! ,great ,seals1 z !y 7 call$4 ,seals may be class$ z3 7a7 ,lay ,seals--7#a7 ,royal ,seal1 7#b7 ,p]sonal ,seals1 7#c7 ,(ficial ,seals1 7#d7 ,common ,seals ( ,corporate bodies4 7b7 ,ecclesia/ical ,seals--7#a7 ,(ficial ,seals 7,bi%ops1 ,abbots1 etc471 7#b7 ,corporate ,seals 7*apt]s1 religi\s h\ses1 etc471 7#c7 ,p]sonal ,seals4 ,_m ( ! ,royal ,seals are v beautiful4 ,! ,great ,seal1 or ! *ief ,royal ,seal1 01 & is /ill1 9 ! keep+ ( ! ,*ancellor1 :o has to keep x 9 8 p]sonal cu/ody :]ev] he goes4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bc4 7,figs4 #a1 #b1 #c73 ,p5dant ,seals4 7,figs4 #d1 #e73 ,obv]se & rev]se ( silv] p5ny ( ,/eph54 7,fig4 #f73 ,seal ( ,anselm4 7,fig4 #g73 ,rev]se ( ,seal ( ,h5ry ,i4 ,! obv]se ( ,royal ,seals be>s a picture ( ! ,k+ seat$ on ! ?rone 9 robes ( peace1 & ! rev]se ! ,k+ on horseback arm$ = w>4 7,figs4 #h & #i73 ,obv]se & rev]se ( a silv] p5ny ( ,william ,i4 ,at ! ,conque/ !re 0 no *ange 9 ! monet>y sy/em ( ,engl&1 & a co9age ( silv] p5nies only1 cont9u$ to be issu$ ( ! same "* z "u ! ,saxon ,k+s1 & ! silv] p5ny cont9u$ to be ! only co9 until ! end ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,iii4 ,! weight 0 ab\t #ba gra9s4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,rev]se ( ! ,royal ,seal ( ,william ,i4 ,he is repres5t$ on horseback1 arm$ 9 a haub]k ( lea!r on :i* metal r+s are sewn4 ,a conical helmet is on 8 head4 ,he c>ries a typical kite-%ap$ ,norman %ield on 8 left arm1 & be>s a long lance ) p5non 9 8 "r h&4 ,! motto or 8leg5d10 :5 translat$1 reads3 8,"k ye ?is ,william1 ,patron ( ! ,normans1 & by ?is seal recognise him ,k+ ( ! ,angles40 ,,! ,,j\/ ,,& ,,t\rnam5t4 ,x 0 natural t m5 ^: pr(ession x 0 to be> arms %\ld engage 9 fri5dly conte/s ) "o ano!r1 & 9 ?is way acquire skill 9 arms z well z indulge 9 a manly pa/ime4 ,:5 only two combatants f\ght1 x 0 call$ j\/+4 ,if a fri5dly trial ( skill only 7 int5d$1 ! lances 7 blunt1 & if swords 7 us$ x 0 only ) ! edge :i* c\ld n inflict a w\nd on a well-arm$ man4 ,?is 0 ! j\te plaisance4 ,if ! combatants f\ght ) %>p weapons & put =? all _! skill & =ce1 x 0 ! j\te l'outrance4 ,:5 a numb] ( knights 7 engag$ on ea* side1 x 0 call$ a t\rnam5t4 ,sometimes ?is 0 play$ ) weapons ( la?1 ! play]s be+ array$ 9 gorge\s co/umes4 ,sometimes ! t\rnam5t 0 a mimic battle1 & 0 !n usually f\ght betwe5 ho/ile factions4 ,9 a contempor>y ,,ms4 9 ! ,briti% ,museum we h a detail$ acc\nt ( all ! prep>ations = a conte/ ( arms4 ,! h]alds ( ! ,k+1 noble1 or lady :o design$ to give a j\/ travell$ to t[ns1 ca/les1 & sometimes f c\rt to c\rt ( =eign c\ntries1 clo!d 9 ! insignia ( _! (fice1 & made public ann\ncem5ts ( ! ev5t 9 ea* place1 invit+ knights to come & try _! skill aga9/ ! home *ampions4 ,9 ! ,,ms4 !re is an acc\nt ( all ! equipm5t t is requir$ by a knight = su* an occasion3 a suit ( arm\r & horse ) trapp+s1 an arm\r]1 ) hamm] & p9c]s to fa/5 ! arm\r1 two s]vants on horseback 9 suitable co/ume1 :o are 8 squires1 & six s]vants on foot1 dress$ alike4 ,z ! fix$ day approa*es1 ! visitors flock f all p>ts1 & f9d lodg+s 9 ! ca/le or 9 ! t[n1 or else pit* _! t5ts 9 a mead[ ne> ! ,ca/le4 ,a suitable piece ( gr\nd is select$1 b>ri]s are put ar\nd x1 & 8gr& /&s0 are erect$ = ! ladies & g5try4 ,on ! day1 ! knights rise up at sunrise & ba!1 & !n are c>efully arm$1 by _! squires & arm\r]s4 ,!n !y come into ! field1 ) _! helms borne be=e !m1 & ) s]vants 7squires7 c>ry+ _! lances4 ,!y are ann\nc$ by ! h]alds to ! assembl$ company ( 8ladyes & g5tilwom540 ,ea* ( ! /rang]s :o comes to ! field has to satisfy ! (fic]-at-arms t he is a 8g5tilman ( names & armes10 & to take oa? t he has no secret weapons or unfair advantage4 ,:5 ?is is satisfactorily complet$1 !y put on _! helms1 & ea* ( ! home *ampions 9 turn runs two or m c\rses ) a /rang] knight4 ,a c\rse is successfully run if ea* breaks 8 lance full on ! brea/plate or helmet ( 8 adv]s>y1 b nei!r is unhors$2 & !y retire amid/ ! plaudits ( ! spectators4 ,if a knight is unhors$1 or lose 8 /irrup1 he is vanqui%$1 & retires f ! game4 ,foll[+ t1 !re is probably a m9iature t\rnam5t betwe5 ! home *ampions & ! /rang]s4 ,at l5g?1 :5 all h run _! c\rses1 ! knights remove _! helmets be=e ! ladies1 make _! obeisance1 & retire to _! lodg+s to *ange4 ,!n !y return1 & a lady pres5ts a prize to ! "o :o is consid]$ ! be/ 8ju/]10 & prizes ( less value to ^? :o h tak5 ! second & ?ird places 9 ! conte/1 mak+ a little spee* suitable to ! occasion4 ,! h]ald comes =w>d & ann\nces3 8,john ha? ju/$ well1 ,ri*>d ha? ju/$ bett]1 & ,?omas ha? ju/$ be/ ( all40 ,a dance completes ! function1 9 :i* ! *ampion knight leads (f ) ! lady ( ! t\rnam5t4 ,!re 7 two di/9ct ways 9 :i* ! j\/+ took place3 7#a7 ,on an op5 c\rse2 7#b7 ) a b>ri]4 ,9 ! =m]1 ! combatants usually />t$ f ! ends ( ! li/s1 & met ab\t ! c5tre4 ,9 ! latt]1 a wood5 b>ri] 0 erect$ d[n ! c5tre ( ! li/s l5g?wise1 &1 :5 ! signal 0 giv51 ! combatants *>g$1 ea* ( !m hav+ ! b>ri] on 8 left4 7,fig4 #a47 ,= ^! two me?ods ( j\/+1 diff]5t arrangem5ts ( arm\r 7 worn2 = "s1 ! upp] "p ( ! body 0 arm$ m ?an ! l[] limbs1 & sometimes x 0 vice v]sa4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bd4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a j\/ betwe5 ,ri*>d ,beau*amp1 ,e>l ( ,w>wick1 & an oppon5t1 ea* *>g+ on ! left ( ! b>ri]4 ,! ,e>l ( ,w>wick has 8 arms display$ ^u 8 tab>d1 & !re is also a display ( arms on ! trapp+s1 or b>d+s1 ( 8 horse4 ,?is 0 n ! fir/ ( ! *>ges1 = a brok5 lance lies on ! gr\nd4 7,f ! ,life ( ,ri*>d ,beau*amp1 ,e>l ( ,w>wick1 writt5 9 ,,ms4 by a ,*antry prie/ ( ,guy's ,cliff1 nam$ ,r\se1 ab\t #adhe47 7,fig4 #b73 ,! combat on foot aft] ! *>ge4 ,! ,e>l ( ,w>wick is arm$ ) a lance1 & ! o!r knight ) a pole-axe4 ,sev]al spl9t]$ lances on ! gr\nd %[ t ! combat has be5 go+ on = "s "t4 ,! ,e>l ( ,w>wick's cre/1 8a be> ) a ragg$ /aff10 appe>s on 8 helmet1 :ile 8 adv]s>y has a s+le l>ge fea!r z cre/4 ,,engli% ,,ar*]s4 ,9 ,saxon times1 little value 0 plac$ ^u ! b[ z a weapon1 b1 aft] ! decisive "p x play$ at ,ha/+s1 its use 0 practis$ g5]ally4 ,f e>ly times1 ar*]s c>ri$ long /akes1 %>p5$ at bo? ends1 & :5 !y took up _! position on ! battlefield1 !y /uck !m into ! gr\nd be=e !m1 ) ! po9ts slop+ outw>d1 to break up a cavalry *>ge :i* might be made aga9/ !m4 ,9 ! #ab? c5tury1 ,engli% ar*]s became r5[n$ = _! skill1 & ,ri*>d ,i4 himself us$ ! long-b[ on m ?an "o occasion4 ,by ! end ( ! #ac? c5tury1 x _h come into great prom95ce4 ,ea* ar*]--9 lat] times1 at lea/--c>ri$ two doz5 arr[s "u 8 belt1 & ar*]s sometimes c>ri$ great movable %ields1 :i* !y fix$ upright by means ( re/s1 & s %elt]$ !mselves f ! enemy's b[m54 ,!y also c>ri$ swords1 s t !y c\ld def5d !mselves1 if attack$1 h& to h&4 ,! great b[1 or long-b[1 0 five feet long1 & 0 =m$ ( yew1 :i*1 at a range ( #bdj y>ds1 dis*>g$ a /rong arr[1 %>p & b>b$4 ,! arr[s 7 usually 8a y>d or an ell long10 b "o1 n[ 9 ! ,unit$ ,s]vice ,museum1 recov]$ f ! 8,m>y ,rose10 :i* sank 9 #aede1 is six feet long4 ,! ar*]s always began ! battle at a di/ance1 z ! artill]y d 9 mod]n w>f>e1 to disorganise ! enemy be=e ! ma9 bodies came to actual h&-to-h& fight+4 ,! cross-b[1 or arbale/1 _h be5 us$ 9 sport = _m ye>s1 b 9 ! #ab? c5tury x came to be employ$ 9 w>f>e1 ?\gh its use 0 =bidd5 by ! ,pope z 8be+ unfit = ,*ri/ian w>f>e40 ,x 0 driv5 out ( use by ! long-b[ 9 ,engl& at ! end ( ! #ac? c5tury4 ,9 ! ,cont95tal armies1 x cont9u$ to gr[ 9 use 9 pref]5ce to ! long-b[1 s t 9 "t ! long-b[ became ess5tially an ,engli% arm4 ,!re 7 sev]al k9ds ( cross-b[s1 :i* may be classifi$ accord+ly z ! /r+ 0 drawn back 7#a7 by h&1 7#b7 by means ( a lev]1 & 7#c7 by means ( a :eel & rat*et4 ,! missiles %ot f ! cross-b[ 7 %ort & /\t1 & _h heads ( diff]5t =ms1 & 7 call$ qu>rels or bolts4 ,!re 7 sev]al reasons :y ! cross-b[ 0 sup]s$$ by ! long-b[3 7#a7 ,a good b[man c\ld %oot ab\t six arr[s :ile a cross-b[man 0 w9d+ up 8 b[ & mak+ "o %ot4 7#b7 ,! p5etrative p[] ( ! arr[1 & ! di/ance :i* x c\ld travel1 7 q equal to ^? ( ! qu>rel f ! cross-b[4 7#c7 ,long-b[m51 us+ _! b[s :5 held 9 a v]tical plane1 c\ld /& m closely toge!r ?an cross-b[m51 :o _h to dis*>ge _! weapons :ile hold+ !m 9 a horizontal plane4 7#d7 ,great] skill & /r5g? 7 requir$ 9 h&l+ ! long-b[ ) precision ?an 0 ! case ) ! cross-b[2 consequ5tly1 m practice 0 necess>y1 & m en?usiasm & confid5ce develop$ ) ! use ( ! =m] ?an ) ! latt]4 ,( ! ar*]s :o took "p 9 ! ,hundr$ ,ye>s' ,w>1 ,b\tell says3 8,9 ^? days1 ! ar*]s ( ,engl& 7 ! be/ infantry 9 ! _w2 b !n _! fam\s long-b[ acquir$ its reputation1 9 no slight degree1 f ! fact t1 9 peace1 ar*]y 0 ! fav\rite pa/ime ( ! ,engli% yeomanry40 ,crecy1 ,poiti]s1 ,ag9c\rt--inde$1 mo/ ( ! great victories ga9$ ov] ! ,fr5*--ma9ly result$ f ! unrivall$ skill ( ! ,engli% long-b[m54 ,all our old writ]s are agre$ ^u ! va/ sup]iority ( our ,engli% b[m5 ov] ^? ( o!r nations4 ,! ,scot* dep5d$ on _! pikem5 & ! ,fr5* on _! m5-at-arms4 ,! ,engli% ar*]s 7 held 9 high e/eem & tru/ by ! ,engli% nobles1 & x 0 ! cu/om = "s ,engli% b>ons & di/+ui%$ knights always to jo9 ! ar*]s 9 battle1 fight+ side by side ) !m 9 _! own ranks4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! ,fr5* nobles 7 v arrogant1 & despis$ ! common p1 :o 71 consequ5tly1 made unfit to become good soldi]s4 ,b ! reputation ( ,engli% ar*]s rose s high t sev]al =eign pr9ces1 9 ! #ae? c5tury1 deem$ _! armies mat]ially re9=c$ if !y c\ld reta9 #bjj or #cjj ,engli% ar*]s 9 _! s]vice4 ,9 #acfc1 & aga9 9 #achh1 /atutes 7 pass$ 9 ,engl& call+ ^u p to leave _! popul> amusem5ts ( 8ball & coits0 on _! fe/ivals & ,sundays1 & to practise ar*]y in/ead4 8,s]vants & lab\r]s %all h b[s & arr[s1 & use ! same on ,sundays & holidays40 ,by an ord9ance made 9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv41 e ,engli%man or ,iri%man dwell+ 9 ,engl& 0 requir$ to h a 8b[ ( 8 own height1 ei!r ( yew1 wit*-hazel1 a% or auburne1 or any o!r reasonable tree1 accord+ to _! p[]40 ,butts 7 enc\rag$ 9 e p>i%1 & traces ( !m /ill rema9 9 ! names ( places1 z 8,new+ton ,butts40 ,h5ry ,v41 :o 0 v pr\d ( 8 ,engli% ar*]s1 ord]$ ! %]iffs ( sev]al c\nties to obta9 geese fea!rs = 8 ar*]s1 pluck+ six f ea* goose4 ,! arr[s 7 c>ri$ 9 a quiv]1 or b\nd toge!r into a %eaf1 susp5d$ f ! wai/-belt4 ,:5 ! battle 0 ab\t to comm5ce1 ! ar*] plac$ 8 arr[s "u 8 left foot1 po9t outw>ds1 or /uck !m1 po9t d[nw>ds1 into ! gr\nd1 or into 8 girdle4 ,he 0 able to dis*>ge 8 b[ twelve times 9 a s+le m9ute1 at a range ( #bdj y>ds1 & 8he1 :o 9 ^! twelve %ots once miss$ 8 man1 0 v lightly e/eem$40 ,9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iii41 a pa9t$ b[ sold = #as4 #f;d41 a :ite b[ = #as41 & %>p-po9t$ arr[s at #as4 #b;d4 p] %eaf ( tw5ty-f\r4 ,z is well-kn[n1 at ,crecy1 & 9 _m o!r battles1 ! ,engli% ar*]s %ot d[n or w\nd$ ! horses ( ! ,fr5* knights s consid]ably t1 9 _! pa9 & t]ror1 ! madd5$ horses upset ! ranks ( ! cavalry & q de/roy$ its effici5cy4 ,at fir/1 ar*]s 7 n protect$ by body arm\r1 b 9 lat] times !y wore jaz]9e jackets1 consi/+ ( ov]lapp+ pieces ( /eel1 fa/5$ by "o edge to a g>m5t ( canvas1 & !n cov]$ ov] ) velvet or clo?4 ,a simil> def5sive g>m5t ( ! #ae? & #af? c5turies 0 ! brig&9e1 a specim5 ( :i* may be se5 9 ! ,t[] ( ,london4 ,ar*]s (t5 wore salades1 or %ell helmets1 :i* cov]$ ! head & eyes1 & sometimes _h movable visors4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #be4 7,fig4 #a73 ,an ,engli% ar*] ( ! #ae? c5tury1 we>+ a salade ) movable visor to protect ! head4 ,x w be notic$ t he has /uck "s arr[s into 8 girdle1 s t !y may be 8h&y0 = %oot+4 ,see ,fig4 #h also1 & comp>e ) ,fig4 #g4 7,f ,royal ,,ms41 #ad ,e4 iv47 7,fig4 #b73 ,an ,engli% salade4 ,?is 0 worn by ar*]s1 & x also =m$ ! usual head-piece = soldi]s ab\t ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,vi4 7,w>s ( ! ,roses47 7,fig4 #c73 ,a ,brig&9e1 f a specim5 9 ,w>wick ,ca/le4 7,figs4 #d & #e73 ,qu>rels1 qu>ells1 or bolts1 = %oot+ f ! cross-b[ or arbale/4 ,fig4 #d is fea!r$2 ,fig4 #e is f ! ,t[] ( ,london4 7,fig4 #e;a73 ,a bird-bolt1 us$ = %oot+ birds f a 8sport+0 cross-b[4 7,fig4 #f73 ,an ,engli% arr[ ( ! ord9>y =m dur+ ! ,middle ,ages1 %[+ ! %>p projection ( ! b>b1 :i* r5d]$ ! extraction a difficult & pa9ful matt]4 7,fig4 #g73 ,an ,engli% ar*] us+ ! long-b[1 & cross-b[man w9d+ up 8 cross-b[4 ,x w be notic$ t ! =m] is left-h&$1 z ! arr[ 0 usually drawn back ) ! "r h& & %ot f ! "r %\ld]4 ,he has arrang$ 8 arr[s = %oot+ by /ick+ !m1 po9t d[nw>ds1 into ! gr\nd at 8 side4 ,bo? he & ! cross-b[man are we>+ jaz]9e jackets1 b ! =m] has a camail & a *a9 mail jacket b5ea? x4 ,! cross-b[man has1 hang+ f 8 girdle1 a lea!rn bag1 to conta9 ! qu>rels = 8 cross-b[4 7,fig4 #h73 ,a sea-fight1 %[+ f\r ar*]s us+ ! long-b[1 "o cross-b[man1 & "o soldi] us+ ! milit>y flail4 ,"o ( ! ar*]s has plac$ 8 arr[s 9 8 belt1 z 9 ,fig4 #a4 7,f ! ,cambridge ,,ms4 ( ! 8,great] ,*ronicles10 by ,mat!w ,p>is1 :o di$ #abei ,a4,d47 ,,e>ly ,,cannon4 ,! discov]y ( gunp[d]1 :i*1 by degrees1 totally *ang$ milit>y tactics & ! con/itution ( armies1 0 ! ev5t t mo/ p[]fully influ5c$ w>f>e 9 ! ,middle ,ages4 ,v little is kn[n ab\t its actual inv5tion4 ,x is suppos$ t ,greek fire1 :i* 0 us$ ) su* t]rify+ & de/ructive effect 9 w>f>e1 p>ticul>ly 9 sieges1 consi/$ ( ! ?ree +r$i5ts ( gunp[d]1 ) res9 & naph?a 9 addition4 ,rog] ,bacon1 an ,engli% fri>1 discov]$ ! secret ( ! composition ( gunp[d] 9 ! latt] half ( ! #ac? c5tury2 b ,s*w>tz1 a ,franciscan1 at ,cologne1 p]fect$ x ab\t a c5tury lat]4 ,! use ( cannon = siege purposes comm5c$ 9 ,engl& 9 ! armies ( ,edw>d ,,iii4 ,froiss>t says t ! ,engli% army us$ !m aga9/ ,calais1 :5 besieg+ x 9 #acdg4 ,b !re 7 v few made at fir/2 an important =tress l ! ,t[] ( ,london1 9 #acfj1 only m\nt+ f\r guns1 :ile ,dov] ,ca/le1 9 #acgb1 _h six4 ,:5 fir/ introduc$1 cannon 7 small & vase-%ap$2 !y 7 sl[ 9 fire1 & v liable to accid5ts4 ,!y 7 call$ 8bomb>ds10 & 7 m\nt$ ^u a wood5 cradle or frame4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ! #ad? c5tury1 !y _h become ( l>ge dim5sions1 fir+ heavy /one %ot ( f #bjj to #dej lbs4 weight4 ,all ! %ot 7 /one until1 because !y did n d suffici5t damage 9 batt]+ d[n a wall1 x became ! practice to b9d & o!rwise /r5g!n !m ) iron4 ,! e>lie/ cannon 7 ( ! rude/ possible description4 ,!y 7 made ( b>s or ?9 %eets ( iron1 arrang$ longitud9ally ov] a wood5 core1 9 ! =m ( a tube1 ar\nd :i* 7 weld$ iron hoops to hold !m toge!r4 ,9 #acch !re exi/$ bree*-load+ guns1 ) "o or m movable *amb]s1 to facilitate load+1 b1 ev5 !n1 ! fire 0 v sl[2 8?ree %ots an h\r 0 fair practice = a big bomb>d40 ,x is n c]ta9 :5 :eel$ c>riages 7 introduc$1 ?\gh m5tion is made ( two-:eel$ bomb>d c>riages 9 #acgf2 b x mu/ be rememb]$ t ! gun at fir/ 0 look$ ^u z a sub/itute = ! bali/a & o!r w> ma*9es employ$ 9 ! siege ( a =tifi$ place4 ,its value z an effective & movable weapon on ! battlefield 0 n realis$ = "s "t4 ,! p[d] 0 fir$ at fir/ by ! ins]tion ( a r$-hot wire1 b ?is 0 (t5 v dang]\s to ! gunn]s1 because ! gun 0 s liable to bur/4 ,james ,,ii4 ( ,scotl& 0 kill$ by ! bur/+ ( a gun at ! siege ( ,roxburgh 9 #adfj4 ,x became ! cu/om1 9 ! case ( l>ge bomb>ds1 = a small tra9 ( p[d] to be laid f ! gr\nd lead+ to ! t\*hole4 ,! gunn]s fir$ ! tra91 & !n ha/ily betook !mselves to a place ( safety4 ,! e>lie/ kn[n repres5tation ( a gun 9 ,engl& is conta9$ 9 a ,,ms41 8,de ,(ficiis ,regum10 at ,*ri/ ,*ur*1 ,ox=d1 ( ! "t ( ,edw>d ,,ii4 7#acbf74 ,x %[s a knight 9 arm\r1 fir+ a %ort1 primitive weapon1 %ap$ some?+ l a vase1 & load$ ) an inc5di>y arr[--t is1 "o *>g$ ) an inflammable sub/ance4 ,fire>ms ( ?is type 7 evid5tly v small1 z only #b lb4 ( gunp[d] 0 provid$ = fir+ =ty-eight arr[s4 ,f ! beg9n+1 contrivances _h be5 made to resi/ ! recoil ( ! gun :5 x 0 fir$2 heavy timb]s1 etc41 7 pack$ up aga9/ ! brea* to prev5t ! gun f fly+ backw>ds1 b ?is plan (t5 br\ght ab\t ! bur/+ ( ! gun4 ,ab\t ! middle ( ! #ae? c5tury1 trunnions 7small cyl9d]s ( solid metal project+ f ! sides1 at "r angles to ! axis ( ! gun7 7 =m$ ) ! gun1 & by means ( ^! ! recoil ( ! gun c\ld be transf]r$ to ! c>riage1 & ! pivot+ ( ! gun up & d[n on ! trunnions made ! lay+ & sight+ an easi] task4 ,/one cannon %ot 7 employ$ until #aebj1 &1 :5 x 0 consid]$ necess>y to use v heavy projectiles1 correspond+ly enorm\s guns _h to be built4 ,mons ,meg1 a well-kn[n gun 9 ,ed9burgh ,ca/le1 ( ?is l>ge type1 is a wr\ght-iron gun ( ! #ae? c5tury4 ,x is built ( iron b>s & ext]nal r+s1 ) a calibre ( #bj in*es1 & x fir$ a %ot weigh+ #cej lbs4 ,bronze guns1 ( a great size1 7 ca/ 9 #adfh at ,con/ant9ople1 & "o ( !m is n[ 9 ! ,rotunda at ,woolwi*4 ,x 0 actually us$ 9 w>f>e aga9/ ! ,engli% at ! ,d>danelles1 9 #ahjg4 ,to %[ ! de/ructive p[] ( su* a l>ge piece ( ordnance1 ev5 ?\gh a crude & anci5t con/ruction1 x may be m5tion$ t ! /one %ot1 weigh+ #gjj lbs41 :i* 0 fir$ f x aga9/ ! ,engli% fleet1 cut ! ma9ma/ ( ! ,briti% flag%ip 9 two1 & ano!r kill$ & w\nd$ sixty m54 ,^! old #ae? c5tury guns 9 ! battle altoge!r acc\nt$ = six ( our m5-(-w> damag$ & #abf m5 kill$ & w\nd$4 ,! gun at ,woolwi* is 9 two pieces screw$ toge!r4 ,! front "p has a calibre ( #be in*es = ! reception ( ! %ot1 & a re> portion1 =m+ a p[d] *amb]1 #aj in*es 9 diamet]4 ,! :ole gun weighs ne>ly #ah tons1 & 0 pres5t$ to ,que5 ,victoria by ! ,sultan ( ,turkey4 ,late 9 ! #ae? c5tury1 guns began to be m regul>ly employ$ on ! battlefield4 ,9 ! #af? c5tury1 ! extremely l>ge guns 7 disc>d$1 & small1 wr\ght-iron guns 7 made1 ?is *ange be+ due to ! use ( ca/-iron %ot1 :i* 0 z de/ructive z ! m bulky /one %ot =m]ly us$4 ,9 #aeba ! fir/ bronze gun 0 ca/ 9 ,engl&1 ca/-iron cannon be+ made also 9 #aedj1 by =eign workm51 introduc$ into ?is c\ntry by ,h5ry ,,viii4 to tea* ! ,engli% ! art4 ,! fir/ f\ndry 0 at ,uckfield1 9 ,sussex1 & ,sussex iron 0 us$1 smelt$ ) *>coal4 ,! small gun ( ?is p]iod 0 made v long1 & a specim5 is to be f\nd 9 ,dov] ,ca/le4 ,x is kn[n z ,que5 ,elizabe?'s ,pocket ,pi/ol1 & is #bd feet long1 ) a bore ( #d in*es4 ,x 0 ca/ 9 #aedd1 & 0 pres5t$ to ,h5ry ,,viii4 by ,*>les ,v4 ,g5]ally speak+1 ! ,engli% 7 mu* beh9d o!r nations 9 ! use ( artill]y until ! end ( ! #ah? c5tury4 ,! quality ( ! gunp[d] us$ 9 ! e>ly days ( ! cannon 0 v poor4 ,! +r$i5ts 7 (t5 mix$ on ! spot at ! "t ( load+1 & ! p[d] burnt sl[ly1 ) b little /r5g?1 & naturally v>i$ f r\nd to r\nd4 ,:5 ! m fi]cely-burn+ granulat$ p[d] 0 introduc$ into ,engl&1 9 ! middle ( ! #ae? c5tury1 x 0 (t5 too /rong = ! l>g] pieces ( t date1 & c\ld only be us$ = small fire>ms = m ?an a c5tury aft]w>ds4 ,9 ! #ag? c5tury1 bronze & ca/-iron guns 7 /r5g!n$1 & 7 m adapt$ to ! use ( gra9$ p[d]1 &1 at ! same "t1 m en]gy & great] range 7 obta9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,plate #bf4 7,fig4 #a73 ,bomb>d or mort> ( a v e>ly date4 7,f a ,,ms47 7,fig4 #b73 ,vase-%ap$ bomb>d ( a date po/]ior to ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,iv4 ,x is fa/5$ to a wood5 b$ or tr\gh1 :i* re/s on a movable pivot 9 a /\t squ>e timb] frame4 7,f a ,,ms47 7,fig4 #c73 ,a soldi] ) a h&-gun fitt$ to a /ock4 7,f a treatise1 8,de ,re ,milit>i10 pr9t$ #adgb47 7,fig4 #d73 ,an e>ly gun1 9 a primitive gun-m\nt+4 ,x is support$ on a massive timb] fram+ at ea* side1 :ile ! flat bree* is re/+ aga9/ a /rong wood5 support1 driv5 into ! gr\nd1 to prev5t recoil4 7,f ,mallet's 8,con/ruction ( ,artill]y407 7,fig4 #e73 ,a gun z us$ dur+ ! *ief "p ( ! #ae? c5tury4 ,x is fix$ on ! swivel pr9ciple1 be+ susp5d$ betwe5 ! bran*es ( an imm5se =k ( iron4 ,! elevation or depression ( ! gun 0 effect$ by means ( a l>ge iron b>1 9 ! =m ( a scy!1 /&+ 9 a v]tical position4 ,! :ole ?+ is fix$ on an iron plate fa/5$ on a massive b$ ( oak4 7,fig4 #f73 ,a h&-gun ( ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv41 fir$ by means ( a mat*4 7,f ,roy4 ,,ms41 #ae ,e4 iv47 7,fig4 #g73 ,a gun call$ a ,pet]>a1 ( ! "t ( ,edw>d ,,iv41 9 ! ,rotunda at ,woolwi*1 made ( b>s ( iron laid longitud9ally1 & b\nd toge!r ) iron hoops4 ,! p[d] *amb] is se51 ) ! h&le to raise x1 & !re is a lock+ arrangem5t1 s t x _c be bl[n out :5 ! gun is dis*>g$4 ,x has trunnions1 & is fa/5$ into ! metal frame1 :i* supports x on ! wood5 c>riage4 7,fig4 #h73 ,a cannon ( ! #ae? c5tury1 m ( ! =m ( ! mort>1 support$ 9 a wood5 framework4 7,f ,roy4 ,,ms41 #ad ,e4 iv47 ,a #ae? ,,c5tury ,,%ip4 ,illu/ration3 ,plate #bg4 ,?is engrav+1 tak5 f ,r\se's ,,ms4 #8,life ( ,ri*>d ,beau*amp1 ,e>l ( ,w>wick' 7,briti% ,museum1 ,julius ,e4 iv471 ( ! latt] "p ( ! #ae? c5tury 7#adhe7 gives a v cle> repres5tation ( a %ip & its boat4 ,! ,e>l is sett+ out on a pilgrimage to ! ,holy ,l&4 ,9 ! =egr\nd1 we see him1 ) 8 pilgrim's /aff 9 h&1 /epp+ into ! boat :i* is to c>ry him to 8 %ip1 ly+ at an*or 9 ! h>b\r4 ,! co/ume ( ! sailors is illu/rat$ by ! m5 9 ! boat4 ,! vessel is a %ip ( burd51 b su* a "o z k+s & great p]sonages _h equipp$ = _! own use1 resembl+ an ord9>y m]*ant %ip 9 all ess5tials1 b fitt$ & furni%$ ) m ?an usual conv5i5ce & sumptu\sness4 ,9 ,e>l ,ri*>d's %ip1 ! sail is emblazon$ ) 8 arms1 & ! p5non1 besides ! r$ cross ( ,engl&1 has 8 badges ( ! be> & ragg$ /aff4 ,! ragg$ /aff also appe>s on ! ca/le at ! ma/head4 ,! ca/le1 :i* all %ips ( ?is age _h at ! /]n1 is1 9 ?is case1 ro($ 9 & h&somely ornam5t$1 &1 no d\bt1 =m$ ! /ate ap>tm5t ( ! ,e>l4 ,!re is also a ca/le at ! head ( ! %ip1 kn[n z ! =eca/le1 ?\gh x is n v pla9ly %[n 9 ! draw+4 ,x consi/s ( a rais$ plat=m2 ! r\nd-head$ entrance to ! cab9 b5ea? x is se5 9 ! picture2 ! two bulw>ks also1 :i* protect x at ! sides1 are visible1 ?\gh _! mean+ is n at fir/ sight obvi\s4 ,incid5tally1 also1 are %[n ! co/umes ( ! m5-at-arms1 ) ! small1 r\nd1 close-fitt+ cap1 & ! v>i\s =ms ( %aft$ weapons4 ,no "o is 9 arm\r4 ,mr4 ,w4 ,laird ,cl[es1 9 8,social ,engl&10 describ+ ?is picture1 says3 8,! %ip is cl9*]-built 7i4e41 ! planks ov]lap "o ano!r71 ) a rudd] & ro($ /]n-cab9 or r\nd-h\se4 ,9 ! bulw>ks ( ! wai/ are ap]tures 7n por?oles71 ?r\gh :i* cannon are po9t$4 ,! ma9ma/ has %r\ds1 a top & "o l>ge squ>e sail4 ,! miz5 is mu* small]1 & has "o sail1 :i* is reef$4 ,! top is ornam5t$ ) ! ,e>l's device1 a ragg$ /aff4 ,f above x floats :at 9 ! bill 7/ill pres]v$7 ( ,seburg 7pa9t]70 & ,ray 7tailor7 is describ$ z 8a grete /rem\r ( =ty y>ds l5g?1 & sev5 y>des 9 br$e1 ) a grete ,be> & ,gryfon hold+ a ragg$ /aff1 p\drid full ( ragg$ /aves & a grete ,crosse ( ,/4 ,george40 ,,brasses4 ,z _m ref]5ces h be5 made 9 ?is "w to 8,brasses10 & a numb] ( ! illu/rations ( arm\r & co/umes are tak5 f !m1 x is fitt+ t a section %\ld be devot$ to s important a s]ies ( national records4 ,monum5tal ,brasses are plates ( brass1 emb$d$ 9 /one slabs1 :i* h be5 plac$ ov] graves 9 ! floors ( our *ur*es & ca!drals4 ,_! use began e>ly 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 & took ! place ( ! c>v$ /one slabs1 :i* _h1 up to ?is "t1 s]v$ z sepul*ral monum5ts4 ,_! value is z great z _! int]e/1 = !y repres5t v accurately1 & ) ! weight ( contempor>y au?ority1 ! co/umes & arm\r ( our ance/ors4 ,!y are f\nd f ! reign ( ,edw>d ,i4 d[n to ! "t ( ,cromwell1 & may be se5 9 _m *ur*es ?r\gh\t ! l5g? & bread? ( ! l&4 ,!re are betwe5 ?ree & f\r ?\s& t are kn[n to exi/ at ! pres5t "t1 ^! =m+1 h[ev]1 only a small proportion ( ! numb] orig9ally exi/+4 ,at ! ,re=mation1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! reigns ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 & ,edw>d ,,vi41 & dur+ ! "t ( ,cromwell1 :5 ! fanatical ,puritans ravag$ our *ur*es & ca!drals1 _m ?\s&s 7 torn up & sold z old metal2 :ile dur+ ! misguid$ 8re/orations0 ( _m ( our *ur*es v l>ge numb]s h disappe>$ or h be5 de/roy$4 ,9 mo/ cases :]e ! brasses rema9 !y are 9 excell5t condition1 not)/&+ ! fact t !y h be5 trodd5 ov] by g5]ations ( wor%ipp]s4 ,on acc\nt ( ! great h>dness ( ! metal ( :i* !y are compos$1 !y are almo/ z fre% & 8%>p0 n[ z :5 !y left ! h&s ( ! engrav]s4 ,!re is an additional advantage :i* ! brass possesses ov] ! /one monum5t1 & t is t ! brass is f\nd z a memorial ( memb]s ( e class ( society--! knight1 ! noble1 ! bi%op1 ! abbot1 ! prie/1 ! nun1 ! "l ( ! manor1 ! judge1 ! lawy]1 ! ,univ]sity don1 ! m]*ant1 ! wool-/apl]1 ! yeoman1 wom5 ( e rank1 & ev5 ! s*oolboy1 h _! brasses4 ,9 speak+ ( _! value z hi/orical records1 ,mr4 ,mackl9 says3 8,brasses give a complete pictorial hi/ory ( ! use & developm5t ( arm\r1 dress1 & ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts f ! ?irte5? to ! end ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4444 ,all ^! 7memb]s ( e class ( society7 we see1 n 9 fancy sket*es1 b 9 actual contempor>y portraits40 ,p]haps "o ( ! greate/ values ( ! brass is t x is a great & au!ntic record ( middle-class co/ume dur+ ! ,middle ,ages4 ,light1 too1 is ?r[n by !m ^u ! social conditions & cu/oms ( ! p1 = example1 :51 dur+ ! ,w>s ( ! ,roses1 practically e noble 0 rang$ "u "o or o!r ( ! rival bann]s1 we f9d !re 0 a great increase 9 ! numb] ( brasses ( ! middle classes1 %[+ t 9 ! mid/ ( civil /rife n only 7 !y unaffect$ to any appreciable degree1 b t ! prop]ty & weal? ( ! middle & trad+ classes 7 actually on ! increase4 ,! mat]ial ( :i* ! brasses 7 made consi/$ ( #fj p>ts ( copp]1 #cj ( z9c1 & #aj ( lead & t94 ,?is gave a v h>d alloy1 :i* w\ld /& v h>d usage4 ,x 0 call$ latt5 or laton1 & until ! reign ( ,elizabe? 0 manufactur$ exclusively 9 ,fl&]s & ,g]many--p>ticul>ly at ,cologne1 :5ce !y 7 (t5 t]m$ ,cull5 plates4 ,!y 7 import$ into ,engl& 9 rectangul> plates ( ! requir$ ?ickness4 ,:5 ! plates 7 manufactur$ 9 ,engl&1 !y 7 v mu* ?9n]1 & consequ5tly m liable to injury2 s t ?\gh !y are n ne>ly s old z ! e>li] brasses1 !y are yet 9 a mu* worse condition4 ,9 ! f\rte5?1 fifte5?1 & sixte5? c5turies brasses 7 manufactur$ 9 great quantities1 & ! "w gave employm5t to _m p4 ,x is probable t ! engrav]s work$ 9 guilds e/abli%$ 9 ,london1 ,norwi*1 ,ipswi*1 & ,bri/ol4 ,! figure 0 drawn 7g5]ally 9 a recumb5t position1 ) ! h&s 9 ! attitude ( pray]7 ^u ! flat brass plate1 & !n ! l9es ( ! arm\r1 ! folds ( ! drap]y1 & ! features1 etc41 7 deeply cut into ! metal4 ,aft] ^! l9es _h be5 engrav$1 ! :ole figure 0 cut out ( ! plate j z a *ild cuts out a figure f a picture4 ,a brass consi/$ ( ! foll[+ p>ts3 7#a7 ,! figure or figures2 7#b7 h]aldic devices & armorial be>+s on %ields2 7#c7 mottoes or epitaphs2 7#d7 o!r subsidi>y figures or ornam5ts 7angels1 canopies1 etc474 ,9 ! ,engli% brass ea* ( ^! elem5ts 0 cut out sep>ately & plac$ 9 position ^u a /one slab4 ,! outl9e 0 !n m>k$ r\nd ea*1 ! brasses 7 lift$ (f1 & ! /one cut away 9 ! portions ?us m>k$ out1 to a dep? equal to ! ?ickness ( ! brass4 ,! plates 7 !n plac$ 9 position 9 ?is /one matrix1 ! surfaces ( ! brass be+ level ) ! surface ( ! /one1 & ea* piece 0 fa/5$ d[n by means ( metal screws4 ,9 a numb] ( cases1 "p or ev5 ! :ole ( ! brasses on a slab h disappe>$1 b ! empty matrix cle>ly %[s ! g5]al =m ( ! miss+ p>ts4 7,fig4 #a47 ,we h 9 ,engl& a few magnific5t brasses ( a diff]5t k9d t 7 manufactur$ & engrav$ entirely 9 ,fl&]s or ,nor? ,g]many1 & !y are kn[n z ,flemi% brasses4 ,! great diff]5ce betwe5 ! ,engli% & ,flemi% brasses is t 9 ! =m] ! figures 7 cut out ( ! rectangul> %eets ( metal1 & ! l9es ( ! draw+ 7 bold & few 9 numb] z 0 compatible ) cle>ness2 :]eas 9 ! latt] ! brass 0 kept 9 a rectangul> =m1 & ! :ole plate 0 engrav$ z ! plate ( a picture might be4 ,! figures 7 incis$ ^u a backgr\nd :i* 0 entirely fill$ 9 ) diap]$ ornam5ts & suitable h]aldic devices & patt]ns1 :ile ! inscription 0 engrav$ ar\nd ! edge ( ! plate4 ,9 ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5turies ! inscriptions on all brasses 7 9 ,norman ,fr5*2 9 ! fifte5? c5tury !y 7 9 ,lat92 & 9 ! sixte5? c5tury 9 ,engli%4 ,9 ! reigns ( ,edw>d ,i41 ,,ii41 ,,iii41 & ,ri*>d ,,ii41 ! brasses rose to _! highe/ quality & magnific5ce4 ,! figures 7 usually life-siz$2 ! l9es 7 deeply & boldly cut1 & !re 0 an abs5ce ( 8%ad+10 ! brass be+ usually a pure1 outl9e1 incis$ draw+4 ,9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,ii41 ar*itectural canopies 7 (t5 introduc$ 7,fig4 #a71 & !n ! figures 7 consequ5tly made less ?an life-size4 ,at fir/ only knights & ladies 7 repres5t$1 b 9 ! reigns ( ,edw>d ,,iii4 & ,ri*>d ,,ii41 memb]s ( ! great middle classes1 :i* 7 increas+ 9 p[]1 weal?1 & public influ5ce1 7 includ$4 ,f ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,iv4 to ,ri*>d ,,iii4 ! brasses 7 n ( s high an ord]1 & at ! latt] "p ( ! p]iod !y began to det]iorate 9 quality & size4 ,! ,tudor p]iod may be call$ ! decad5t p]iod ( brasses1 = ! draw+s 7 (t5 disproportionate & lightly cut1 ! figures crude1 & ! plates ?94 ,!re is (t5 an excess ( 8%ad+0 9 !m :i* detracts f ! beautiful simplicity ( ! draw+4 ,! practice ( lay+ d[n ^! brasses1 probably ?r\gh ^! v causes1 began to decay1 ! la/ kn[n be+ laid 9 #aggc ,a4,d4 ,copies ( brasses1 or rubb+s1 are made 9 a v simple & int]e/+ mann] by tak+ a %eet ( :ite l9+ pap] 7pla9 wallpap]71 lay+ x ^u ! brass1 & c>efully rubb+ ov] x ) a piece ( %oemak]'s heel-ball4 ,! flat portions ( ! brass 8cat*0 ! heel-ball dur+ ! process1 :ile ! incis$ l9es are left :ite1 & if c>e be tak5 t ! pap] does n %ift1 a v fai?ful copy ( ! brass c be made4 ,! rubb+ %\ld be cont9u$ until a deep black tone is obta9$1 = ! heel-ball does n sme> on ! pap]4 ,mo/ cl]gym5 are pr\d ( ! brasses 9 _! *ur*es1 & readily give p]mission = rubb+s to be tak5 f !m if a c\rte\s application be made4 ,brasses are n scatt]$ at r&om ?r\gh\t ! c\ntry4 ,!y are met ) mo/ frequ5tly 9 ! ea/]n & home c\nties4 ,probably ?is is because ^! p>ts are ne>e/ to ,fl&]s1 & ! co/ ( transport+ ! %eets ( brass f> inl& w\ld be a consid]able addition to _! co/4 7,= ^? :o wi% to pursue ?is subject1 ,mackl9's ,brasses ( ,engl& 7,me?u57 & ,suffl+'s ,engli% ,*ur* ,brasses 7,upcott ,gill7 w be f\nd mo/ useful1 z 9 addition to o!r matt] !y conta9 a regi/] ( all brasses kn[n 9 ! ,briti% ,isles47 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bh4 7,fig4 #a73 ,! despoil$ slab ( ,bi%op ,beaumont ( ,durham1 ab\t #acce ,a4,d41 %[+ ! matrix = ! brass 9 ! slab1 & also ! =m ( a canopy brass4 ,! place :]e ! inscription 0 fix$ is %[n 9 ! :ite b& j inside ! edge4 7,fig4 #b73 ,! brass ( a ,not>y 7"n lo/71 ab\t #adge ,a4,d41 9 ,/4 ,m>y ,t[] ,*ur*1 ,ipswi*4 8,not>ies wore a pla9 g[n1 ) an ink-horn & p5-case susp5d$ f ! belt1 & a sc>f & cap on ! left %\ld]40 7,mackl947 7,fig4 #c73 ,! brass ( ,dame ,elizabe? ,h>vey1 ,b5$ict9e ,abbess ( ,el/[1 ,b$=d%ire1 ab\t #aebe ,a4,d4 ,figs4 #b & #c %[ ! actual appe>ance ( 8rubb+s0 ( brasses4 ,,h]aldry4 ,h]aldry has be5 call$ ! 8%or?& ( hi/ory10 & 8! critical desire = accuracy1 :i* =tunately seems to h be5 ! keynote ( rese>*0 dur+ rec5t times1 necessitates an inquiry into ! hi/ory & practice ( ,h]aldry1 :i* play$ su* an important "p 9 ! life ( ! ,middle ,ages4 ,x is n believ$ t ! ,normans at ! ,conque/ bore any 8arms0 on _! %ields4 ,!re are c]ta9 m>k+s %[n on ! %ields 9 ! ,bayeux ,tape/ry1 b !y 7 probably b&s & bosses us$ = ! purpose ( /r5g!n+ !m4 ,z a sy/em1 h]aldry 0 n organis$ until ! twelf? or ?irte5? c5tury4 ,x 0 probably introduc$ into ,engl& f ,france1 z all ! t]ms us$ 9 ! practice are ,fr5*4 ,! two great factors 9 ! ext5sive & almo/ univ]sal practice ( h]aldry 7 ! t\rnam5ts & j\/s1 & ! ,crusades4 ,all ! sov]eigns ( ,europe1 & p>ticul>ly ! ,k+s ( ,engl&1 enc\rag$ ! =m]1 because ( ! excell5t practice 9 ! use ( arms & ! rigor\s tra9+ !y gave4 ,clo!d1 z ! combatants 71 9 _! arm\r1 _! features conceal$ )9 ! heaumes or helmets1 x became a necessity = !m to be> "s di/9ctive m>ks or devices1 ei!r z 8cre/s0 on _! helmets or z armorial be>+s or 8arms0 ^u _! %ields1 _! surcoats1 _! p5nons & bann]s4 ,! reta9]s ( a knight foll[$ _! ma/]1 & ralli$ ar\nd him1 recognis+ him by ^! features1 & _! battle cry became1 9 _m cases1 ! family motto1 & has s rema9$ until ?is day4 ,at fir/ ! cre/1 :i* 0 ( l>ge size1 0 made ( lea!r1 b lat] on x 0 made ( wood or /eel4 ,orig9ally ! devices ^u ! %ields 7 few & simple1 & consi/$ ( b&s fa/5$ to ! %ields 9 v>i\s positions 7,figs4 #a to #ah7 to /r5g!n !m4 ,^! 7 t]m$ 8hon\rable ord9>ies40 ,:5 ! surface ( ! %ield 0 col\r$1 ^! b&s w\ld be col\r$ diff]5tly4 ,z ! cu/om ( be>+ ^! devices became m univ]sal1 & ! numb] ( knights increas$1 x became necess>y to add _m o!rs & to modify & diff]5tiate 9 _m ways ! exi/+ ones4 ,! simple/ 8arms0 are consequ5tly held to be ! mo/ hon\rable1 z !y imply great] antiquity4 ,_m devices 7 grant$ & borne 9 recognition ( feats ( arms or ( important duties p]=m$1 z1 9 lat] days1 ! ,d\glas family 7 privileg$ to be> on _! %ield a he>t 7lat] on surm\nt$ by a cr[n71 9 commemoration ( ! fact t a ,d\glas _h ! hon\r ( be>+ ! he>t ( ,rob]t ,bruce to ! ,holy ,l&4 7,fig4 #ba47 ,(t51 aft] ! p]=mance ( a p>ticul>ly h]oic de$ on ! battlefield1 knights 7 rew>d$ by be+ grant$ ! "r to we> "s suitable commemorative device ^u _! %ields4 ,^! _h a simil> significance to ! ,v4,c4 or ,d4,s4,o4 aw>d$ n[adays1 ) ! additional advantage t !y 7 h]$it>y4 ,9 ! ,crusades1 :i* =m$ ! o!r great factor 9 ! gr[? & practice ( h]aldry1 x became necess>y to di/+ui% ! knights ( diff]5t nations f "o ano!r4 ,! ,engli% wore a :ite cross on ! "r %\ld] ( _! cloaks4 ,simil>ly ! ,fr5* wore a r$ "o1 ! ,flem+s a gre5 "o1 & ! w>riors f ! ,roman ,/ates two keys cross$ z 9 a ,/4 ,&rew's cross or ,saltire4 ,z a special inducem5t to ! w>riors ( ! ,we/1 ! ,pope promis$ t any soldi]1 :atev] 8 rank or /ation1 :o slew an infidel 9 battle1 %\ld be decl>$ noble1 & be at lib]ty to adopt any device he might *oose z a mem5to ( ! "p he _h tak5 9 ! ,w>s ( ! ,cross4 ,h5ce1 _m devices connect$ ) ! ,holy ,l& & ! ,crusades 7 introduc$ into & rema9 9 h]aldry--e4g41 ! scallop$ %ell1 ! palm]'s /aff1 bezants 7gold co9s ( ,byzantium71 wat] b\gets 7lea!rn wat]-bottles71 cresc5ts1 />s1 scimit>s1 ,s>ac5s' heads1 & ! num]\s =ms ( ! cross4 ,probably f ! same s\rce came su* my?ical creatures z ! dragon1 ! wyv]n1 & ! cockatrice4 ,9 "t1 ! arms ( knights became h]$it>y4 ,a man1 on ! dea? ( 8 fa!r1 receiv$ pr\dly 8 fa!r's sword & 8 %ield1 & appreciat$ ! dignity ( ?us be+ associat$ ) ! hon\rable a*ievem5ts ( 8 p>5t4 ,be=e ?is practice _h become g5]al1 a "y knight comm5c$ 8 knightly c>e] ) a p]fectly pla9 7arg5t7 %ield1 & he a*iev$ or won ! "r to be> devices ^u x2 h5ce ! arms :i* 7 display$ on x 7 call$ 8 a*ievem5ts4 ,! :ole surface ( ! %ield 0 call$ 8! field0 because he p]=m$ 8 de$s1 record$ on ! %ield1 on ! 8field ( battle40 ,sometimes a knight adopt$ arms repres5t+ 8 "n--e4g41 ! arms ( ,lucy 7 8?ree luce or pike02 ! family ( ,col?ur/ _h 8a colt0 z cre/4 ,^! 7 call$ 8cant+ arms10 & 7 obvi\sly n grant$ = any feat ( d>+4 ,symbolism play$ a prom95t "p 9 ! selection ( arms & cre/s1 = k+s & lead]s display$ on _! %ields lions & eagles--! emblems ( c\rage & p[] & k+ly au?ority4 ,! ca/le 0 an emblem ( /ability1 & ?is device 0 also grant$ to knights :o successfully def5d$ or r$uc$ a ca/le4 ,! foll[]s ( knights & nobles adopt$ ! habit ( we>+ a device call$ a badge1 tak5 f ! arms ( _! "l1 & !y wore co/umes ( ! *ief col\rs ( 8 %ield4 ,^! 7 call$ liv]ies1 & f ?is is d]iv$ ! mod]n cu/om ( ! liv]ies ( m5-s]vants4 ,mo/ fam\s ( ^! liv]ies 7 ! ,plantag5ets--sc>let & :ite2 ! ,lanca/rians--blue & :ite2 ! ,yorki/s--blue & crimson2 ! ,tudors--:ite & gre54 ,! common p1 at ! "t :5 h]aldry 0 mo/ g5]ally practis$1 7 q illit]ate1 b ev]yone c\ld read & und]/& ! devices ( h]aldry4 ,among ! mo/ fam\s badges worn by reta9]s 7 ! ,planta g5i/a1 or broom plant ( ! ,plantag5ets1 & ! roses1 r$ & :ite1 ( ! ,lanca/rians & ,yorki/s4 ,! ,tudor family fitt+ly adopt$ z a badge a d\ble rose1 consi/+ ( a :ite rose )9 a r$ "o1 to signify ! union ( ! two great families4 ,village inns 7 nam$ aft] a prom95t device borne ^u ! %ield ( ! local "l ( ! manor1 & 9 ?is way we get su* names z ! ,r$ ,lion1 ! ,blue ,bo>1 ! ,:ite ,h>t1 ! ,rose & ,cr[n1 etc4 ,_m knights 7 spok5 ( by _! badges--e4g41 ,h5ry ,tudor speaks to 8 foll[]s ( 8! wret*$1 bloody1 & usurp+ bo>10 mean+ ,ri*>d ,,iii41 "o ( ^: badges 0 ! bo>4 ,! surcoat1 or sleeveless coat1 0 adopt$1 worn ov] ! arm\r1 to less5 ! discom=t caus$ by ! sun's rays /rik+ directly on ! arm\r4 ,x became a magnific5t g>m5t ( velvet or silk1 elaborately embroid]$ ) ! armorial be>+s 9 silk & gold 7h5ce ! orig9 ( ! ^w 8coat-(-arms074 ,?is g>m5t /ill survives 9 ! ,tab>d ( ! ,royal ,h]alds1 on :i* are embroid]$ ! arms ( ! sov]eign4 ,dur+ ! reigns ( ,edw>d ,,iii4 & ,h5ry ,v41 ow+ to ! ,fr5* ,w>s & _! effect ^u ! m>tial population ( ,engl&1 h]aldry 0 practis$ mo/ ext5sively & _h its noble/ application1 b dur+ ! reign ( t butt]fly k+1 ,ri*>d ,,ii41 x rea*$ its mo/ fanta/ic heights4 ,aft] ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv41 ! value & importance atta*$ to ! correct practice ( h]aldry decl9$1 = dur+ ! ,w>s ( ! ,roses _m noble families became ext]m9at$1 & ,h5ry ,,vii4 ennobl$ _m ( ! upp] middle classes to take _! places4 ,to ?is1 & ! pr(use creation ( knights' bann]ets or b>onets by ,james ,i41 may be attribut$ ! gradual decl9e ( h]aldry1 & ! ridicul\s grants ( arms made 9 ! ,georgian p]iod contribut$ /ill fur!r to t effect4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #bi4 ,! v>i\s t9ctures 7or col\rs71 metals1 & furs are repres5t$ by l9es1 etc41 9 black-&-:ite draw+s4 7,figs4 #a to #h73 ,%[+ ^? mo/ commonly 9 use4 7#a73 ,gold 7or74 7#b73 ,silv] 7arg5t74 7#c73 ,r$ 7gules74 7#d73 ,blue 7azure74 7#e73 ,black 7sable74 7#f73 ,gre5 7v]t74 7#g73 ,erm9e4 7#h73 ,vair4 ,nos4 #a & #b are metals1 #c-f col\rs1 #g & #h furs4 ,! h]aldic names are giv5 9 brackets4 7,figs4 #i to #ah73 ,honor\ble ord9>ies 7b&s ^u ! %ields74 7#i73 ,a *ief4 7#aj73 ,a pale4 7#aa73 ,a fess4 7#ab73 ,a b5d dext]4 7#ac73 ,a b5d s9i/]4 7#ad73 ,a *evron4 7#ae73 ,a cross4 7#af73 ,a saltire or ,/4 ,&rew's cross4 7#ag73 ,a pile4 7#ah73 ,a bordure4 ,! %ields 7 also divid$ or 8p>t$0 into diff]5tly col\r$ portions by l9es foll[+ ! position ( ^! ord9>ies--e4g4 7,fig4 #ai73 ,%[s a %ield 8p>t$ p] pale0 7see #aj47 7,fig4 #bj73 8,p>t$ p] *evron0 7see #ad74 7,fig4 #bj73 ,also %[s ! diff]5t portions ( a %ield--,a1 ! *ief2 ,b1 ! base2 ,c1 ! dext] 7"r7 side2 ,d1 ! s9i/] 7left7 side2 ,e1 ! dext] *ief2 ,f4 ! s9i/] *ief4 7,fig4 #ba73 ,arms ( ! ,d\glas family4 7,fig4 #bb73 ,a lion rampant--typical ( animals borne ^u ! %ield4 7,fig4 #bc73 ,a ca/le--typical ( inanimate objects4 7,fig4 #bd73 ,! bann] ( ! ,knights ,templ>s1 ! r5[n$ ,beauseant1 black above & :ite bel[1 to d5ote t :ile fi]ce to _! foes !y 7 graci\s to _! fri5ds4 7,fig4 #be73 ,badge ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 typify+ ! union ( ,engl& 7! rose7 ) ,spa9 7! pomegranate7 9 ! p]sons ( ,h5ry & ,ka!r9e ( ,aragon4 7,fig4 #bf73 ,a ,tab>d f a brass ( #addd4 ,! arms3 ,arg5t1 a *evron betwe5 ?ree crosses pate sable4 7,9 describ+ a coat ( arms1 ! col\r ( ! %ield or field is always giv5 fir/1 9 ?is case be+ arg5t or :ite47 7,fig4 #bg73 ,cre/ ( ! ,duke ( ,hamilton1 8an oak tree cov]$ ) gold5 acorns1 ! trunk be+ cut transv]sely by a frame saw1 on ! blade ( :i* is inscrib$ ! ^w #8,?r\gh'40 ,?is commemorates ! fact t an ance/or ( ! ,duke ( ,hamilton1 :5 flee+ be=e 8 enemies1 0 pursu$ closely into a wood1 accompani$ only by a fai?ful reta9]4 ,he brib$ two woodcutt]s1 :o 7 saw+ ! trunk ( an oak tree1 to let him & 8 s]vant take _! places4 ,soon aft] ! fugitives _h comm5c$ saw+1 _! pursu]s came up & que/ion$ !m 7?9k+ !m to be woodcutt]s7 z to ! :]eab\ts ( ! m5 !y 7 pursu+4 ,! s]vant1 fright5$1 began to falt]1 b ,hambl$on /]nly bade him g on ) 8 saw+ & cut 8?r\gh40 ,aft] rea*+ a place ( safety1 ,sir ,gilb]t de ,hambl$on adopt$ ! above cre/ & motto1 & !y h cont9u$ 9 ! family to ?is day4 7,fig4 #bh73 8,%ield = ,peace0 ( ! ,black ,pr9ce1 describ$ h]aldically z 8sable1 ?ree o/ri* fea!rs1 two & "o1 ! quill ( ea* pass+ ?r\gh a scroll arg5t40 ,! ,black ,pr9ce 01 accord+ to ,mr4 ,fox-,davies1 probably s call$ on acc\nt ( black be+ 8 liv]y col\r1 & t 8 own reta9]s & foll[]s wore ! liv]y ( black4 7,fig4 #bi73 ,badge ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4--a :ite h>t4 7,fig4 #cj73 ,upp] "p ( a h]aldic a*ievem5t4 ,ov] ! %ield is plac$ an esquire's helmet surm\nt$ by a cre/ ^u a torse or wrea?1 ) a lambrequ9 or mantl+ betwe5 ! wrea? & ! helmet4 ,! torse1 repres5t+ two twi/$ silk5 sc>ves1 0 worn to hide ! junction ( ! cre/ ) ! helmet4 ,x mu/ consi/ ( six l9ks alt]natively ( metal & col\r 7! liv]y col\rs ( ! arms74 ,! mantl+ 0 a 8little mantle0 dep5d+ f ! cr[n ( ! helmet & hang+ ov] ! back ( ! neck z a protection aga9/ heat4 ,9 ! c\rse ( a fight x w\ld become r5t & sla%$4 ,h5ce x has become ! cu/om to make x v ragg$ z a sign ( hon\r4 7,fig4 #ca73 ,cre/ ( ,william ,e>l ( ,salisbury1 c4 #acdd1 f 8 seal4 ,,! ,,tudor ,,navy4 ,h5ry ,,vii4 f\nd$ ! fir/ ,engli% p]man5t docky>d at ,portsm\?1 & built 9 #adie ! fir/ dry dock 9 ,engl&4 ,dur+ 8 reign #he vessels at lea/ 7 add$ to ! ,navy1 "s be+ pur*as$1 "s tak5 z prizes1 & o!rs 7ab\t #df7 built4 ,! fir/ great %ip 9 m$ival times 0 ! ,great ,h>ry1 built by ,h5ry ,,vii4 9 #adhh1 & co/+ #ad1jjj2 b up to ?is "t vessels _h no por?oles f :i* ! guns c\ld be fir$4 ,?is 0 ! inv5tion ( a %ip-build] ( ,bre/1 nam$ ,des*>ges1 9 #aejj1 & by its adoption1 guns c\ld be fir$ f ! l[] decks4 ,! e>ly por?oles1 h[ev]1 7 s small t ! guns c\ld consequ5tly only be work$ 9 "o direction4 ,?is did n matt] v mu*1 z x 0 usual1 on acc\nt ( ! difficulties ( load+1 only to fire ! guns once or twice1 & !n to run alongside ! enemy & bo>d him4 ,9 #aeae ! great ,engli% man-(-w>1 ,h>ry ,grace ,dieu1 0 built by ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,%e _h two decks1 & c>ri$ #ad heavy guns on ! l[] deck1 #ab on ! upp] deck1 & #df o!r guns arrang$ 9 diff]5t qu>t]s ( ! vessel--a total ( #gb guns4 ,! heavy guns weigh$ f #b1jjj to #c1jjj lbs41 & gave ! ,engli% %ips a di/9ct advantage ov] _! less heavily arm$ enemies4 ,%e _h f\r ma/s & a b[sprit1 all squ>e rigg$4 ,!re 7 two sails on ea* ( ! fir/ & second ma/s 78fo]0 & 8mayne071 & a late5 sail on ea* ( ! o!r two ma/s 78mayne mizz50 & 8bonav5ture074 ,! ,h>ry 0 e/imat$ at #a1jjj or #a1ejj tons1 ! sy/em ( measur+ a %ip at ! "t be+ to e/imate h[ _m tons or tun casks ( w9e %e c\ld c>ry4 ,! o!r %ips ( w> built 9 ?is reign 7 con/ruct$ on simil> l9es to ! ,h>ry1 b on a small] scale4 ,at ?is "t ! l>g] %ips ( ! ,navy 7 divid$ into two classes1 8%ips0 & 8galliasses10 ! latt] be+ huge galleys propell$ by sweeps or l>ge o>s4 ,z progress 0 made1 ! height ( ! =e-ca/les 0 l[]$1 & ! keels ( ^! %ips 7 cov]$ ) a lead %ea?+4 ,9 ! reign ( ,elizabe? !re 0 a consid]able improvem5t 9 ! g5]al con/ruction ( ! vessels4 ,!y 7 n made ( l>ge size1 b "u ! direction ( ,sir ,john ,hawk9s !y 7 built on long] keels1 ) f9] l9es & l[] sup]/ructures ?an be=e1 & on acc\nt ( ^! improvem5ts !y 7 capable ( c>ry+ m sail & sail+ m swiftly4 ,! sides ( %ips 7 pa9t$ black & :ite or gre5 & :ite or timb] col\r4 ,figureheads 7lions or dragons7 at ! b[s & ! ,royal ,arms 9 gold & col\rs at ! /]n 7 us$ to decorate !m4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t ! cook+ galley 0 solidly built ( bricks & mort> ^u ! gravel balla/ d[n 9 ! hold4 ,! l>ge vessels cont9u$ to h f\r ma/s1 & ! armam5t 0 ! same z 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 ! l>ge/ guns1 8great ordnance10 be+ #ab feet long1 ) a bore ( #h in*es1 & an extreme range ( ab\t "o mile4 ,! l>ge/ %ips _h f #dj to #fj ( ^! 8great ordnance10 & !re 7 also provid$ = ea* %ip #bjj arquebuses or cross-b[s1 #dj longb[s1 & #ahj %eaves ( arr[s4 ,x _h be5 ! cu/om = _m ye>s to c>ry a great _m soldi]s 9 ea* %ip1 9 addition to ! crew ( sailors4 ,! ,great ,h>ry c>ri$ 8soldi]s #cdi1 m>9es #cja1 & gunn]s #ej40 ,! soldi]s consi/$ ( muskete]s & ar*]s1 allott$ to ea* %ip "u _! own (fic]s4 ,! capta9 0 n select$ = 8 skill z a sailor2 9 fact1 he 0 also ! ,k+'s ,ma/] ( ! ,horse & a soldi] by pr(ession4 ,! actual h&l+ ( ! %ip 0 left to ! ,ma/]4 ,at ! end ( ! sixte5? c5tury ! w> vessels no long] c>ri$ soldi]s1 ! sailors be+ tra9$ to fight & sail ! %ips !mselves4 ,9 ! reign ( ,elizabe?1 too1 ! cu/om ( putt+ l&sm5 9 comm& 0 modifi$1 & seam5-capta9s1 su* z ,drake1 ,hawk9s1 & ,frobi%]1 comm&$ "s ( ! fight+ %ips ( ! ,royal ,navy4 ,aft] any special s]vice on :i* ! vessels _h be5 engag$ 0 complet$1 ! %ips 7 laid up1 ! capta9s retir$ to private life1 & ! seam51 :o 7 paid by ! week or ! mon?1 7 dis*>g$2 only a small body ( (fic]s & m51 %ip-keep]s1 be+ reta9$ to take *>ge ( ! vessel 9 h>b\r4 ,x is int]e/+ to f9d t ! foll[+ 0 ! pay ( "s ( ! v>i\s ranks ( ! ,navy ab\t #aehh3 ,admiral1 f #c #fs4 #h;d4 to #aes4 p] day2 ,capta91 #bs4 #f;d4 p] day4 ,all ! o!r ranks 7 paid by ! mon?3 ,lieut5ant 7"o only on ea* %ip71 #c2 ,ma/]1 #a to #c #bs4 #f;d42 ,prea*]1 #b to #c2 ,boatswa91 #acs4 #i;d4 to #a #ajs42 ,ma/] ,c>p5t]1 #ags4 #f;d4 to #a #es42 ,surgeon1 #a2 ,cook1 #acs4 #i;d4 to #ags4 #f;d42 ,sailor1 #ajs4 7,9 ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 ! sailor only receiv$ #es4 p] mon?47 ,z an in/ance ( ! religi\s feel+ t exi/$ 9 ^? times1 ! ,prea*]s said pray]s twice a day1 8& !re 01 besides1 ! s++ ( a psalm at wat* sett+1 a v old cu/om 9 ! ,engli% sea s]vice40 ,) reg>d to ! clo?+ ( ! sailors1 ,edw>d ,,iv4 is said to h provid$ 8jackets10 probably a k9d ( uni=m1 & ! practice 0 cont9u$ by ,h5ry ,,vii4 ,h5ry ,,viii4 also1 z long z he _h ample funds 7f 8 late fa!r's treasury71 clo!d ! sailors 9 ! ,tudor col\rs 7:ite & gre571 clo? be+ worn by ! sailors & damask & sat91 by ! (fic]s4 ,sailors 7 all[$ a gallon ( be] a day1 z wat] 0 n c>ri$ on m5-(-w> until ! middle ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,h5ry ,,viii4 is said to h 8refa%ion$ ! ,navy 9 ! direction ( %ipbuild+1 armam5t1 & adm9i/ration4 ,he may be said to h creat$ x1 s9ce f 8 reign x has be5 recognis$ z ! special national arm40 ,9 ,elizabe?'s "t ! /&+ /r5g? ( ! ,navy 0 ab\t #b1jjj to #c1jjj m54 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #cj4 7,fig4 #a73 ,! ,ann ,gallant1 a man-(-w> con/ruct$ 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 7#aedf74 ,! l(ty =eca/le & poop 7 /ill f\nd 9 ! %ips ( ?is reign4 ,vessels 7 n[ built 8c>rel0 fa%ion1 i4e41 ) ! planks laid edge to edge1 in/ead ( 8cl9*]0 built1 :]e ! planks ov]lap "o ano!r2 = x 0 consid]$ t ! =m] /yle ( build+ gave great] /r5g?4 7,fig4 #b73 ,an ,elizabe?an man-(-w>4 ,! ,/4 ,george's ,cross1 :i* 0 ! national flag1 & 0 only p]mitt$ to m5-(-w>1 is c>ri$ at ! ma9-top1 :ile ! ,tudor flag ( gre5 & :ite is c>ri$ at ! /]n4 ,fight+ tops w be se5 on all ! ma/s2 ! high poop is v noticeable1 :ile ! =eca/le has almo/ disappe>$4 ,,plantag5et ,,co/ume4 ,dur+ ! ,plantag5et p]iod1 = ! fir/ times ! effigies ( ,engli% sov]eigns give au!ntic repres5tation ( regal co/ume 9 =m & col\r 7hav+ be5 pa9t$ to imitate ! actual clo?+74 ,! ,royal ,robes ( ,h5ry ,,ii41 ,ri*>d ,i41 & ,john consi/ ( 7#a7 an und]g>m5t ) close-fitt+ sleeves2 7#b7 a tunic-l g>m5t ) loose sleeves1 call$ a dalmatica1 :i* is gird$ r\nd ! wai/ by a belt2 7#c7 a mantle1 ri*ly embroid]$1 cov]+ all4 ,! co/ume ( ! nobles 0 simil> 9 =m & /yle to ^!1 /ock+s & *ausses be+ worn1 & ! habit ( 8cross-g>t]+0 ! leg f ! toe to above ! knee 0 cont9u$2 b dur+ ! reigns ( ^! sov]igns1 spl5d\r ( appe>ance 0 /udi$ r ?an qua9tness ( %ape4 ,! co/ume ( ladies consi/$ ( 7#a7 an "u robe ) sleeves1 close-fitt+ at ! wri/2 7#b7 a loose g>m5t1 l ! dalmatica1 b )\t sleeves2 7#c7 a mantle4 ,a head-dress1 call$ ! wimple1 0 worn4 ,?is consi/$ ( a piece ( silk or l95 pass+ "u ! *91 ) ! ends ga!r$ ov]head1 & 0 fir/ m5tion$ 9 ! reign ( ,john4 ,x 0 worn ) a veil hang+ d[n by ! sides ( ! face & ov] ! back ( ! head4 ,a purse to hold money = ! giv+ ( alms 0 susp5d$ f ! girdle4 ,x is wor?y ( note t ! g5]al co/ume ( nuns at ! pres5t day is1 9 all b col\r1 ! usual dress ( wom5 ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,! dress ( ! l[] classes did n v>y mu* f t ( ! prec$+ p]iod4 ,x consi/$ ( a pla9 tunic1 /rong boots1 & a hood or hat = ! head1 ) co>sely made gloves )\t sep>ate f+]s4 ,a cap call$ a coif1 fitt+ close to ! head & fa/5$ "u ! *91 0 (t5 worn by m5 ( all classes4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,iii4 ! g5]al co/ume ( m5 consi/$ ( ! tunic1 op5 9 front to ! wai/1 *ausses or /ock+s & draw]s4 ,mantles & cloaks 7 only us$ = ,/ate or = travell+1 ! mat]ials us$ = ^! be+ v ri*4 ,a g>m5t call$ a sup]-totus 7ov]-all71 act+ z an ov]coat1 0 commonly worn4 ,x consi/$ ( a circul> piece ( clo? ) a hole 9 ! c5tre1 ?r\gh :i* ! head 0 pass$1 & to x 0 (t5 atta*$ a hood or capu*on1 :i* became v popul> & held its own = ab\t #cjj ye>s4 ,! co/umes ( wom5 & ( ord9>y citiz5s 7 ess5tially ! same z 9 ! prec$+ reigns1 b ! hair ( ! ladies 0 ga!r$ up into a network or caul ( gold & silv] filigree1 in/ead ( be+ arrang$ 9 plaits4 ,edw>d ,i4 dress$ 9 a v pla9 mann]1 diff]+ little f an ord9>y citiz51 & consequ5tly !re 0 little extravagance ( dress 9 8 reign4 ,! ladies1 h[ev]1 wore _! g>m5ts unconf9$ at ! wai/1 v full1 & ) long tra9s4 ,on acc\nt ( _! extravagance 9 ?is respect1 !y 7 v mu* satiris$ by contempor>y writ]s4 ,!y also wore a v ugly =m ( ! wimple4 ,!re 0 no *ange 9 ! dress ( ! l[] classes except+ t a k9d ( smock frock1 made g5]ally ( canvas or fu/ian1 0 worn by bo? sexes4 ,edw>d ,,ii41 ) 8 fav\rites1 ,gave/on & ! ,desp5s]s1 made ! ,c\rt 8a wild debau* ( co/ume & foppi% ecc5tricities40 ,! co/ume ( ladies *ang$ v little dur+ ?is reign1 b ! practice ( we>+ ! head uncov]$ became m g5]al4 ,9 ! co/ume ( m51 ! greate/ *ange 0 ! displacem5t ( ! loose tunic or dalmatica by a g>m5t call$ ! cte-h>di1 fitt+ tightly f ! neck to ! wai/1 ) a skirt bel[4 ,! hood or capu*on 0 modifi$ by ! tail or po9t at ! back1 be+ ext5d$ until x rea*$ to ! wai/1 ?is tail be+ (t5 w\nd r\nd ! neck 9 cold wea!r z a k9d ( muffl]4 ,a simil> k9d ( hood 0 also 9 use1 cov]+ ! head & %\ld]s & rea*+ to ! elb[4 ,9 ?is reign a new s\rce ( au!ntic in=mation is available 9 ! brasses :i* are f\nd 9 our *ur*es4 ,!y are v well pres]v$1 & %[ ! details ( co/ume v cle>ly & accurately4 ,= ?is reason !y are invaluable4 ,edw>d ,,iii4 has be5 call$ 8! ,k+ :o taught ! ,engli% p h[ to dress10 & x is wor?y ( note t ! co/umes worn dur+ 8 reign foll[$ ! l9es ( ! body itself4 ,! use ( ! cti-h>di increas$4 ,x 0 (t5 made ( v exp5sive mat]ials1 & long n>r[ /rips ( :ite clo? call$ tippets 7 add$ to ! sleeves1 rea*+ f ! elb[ to ! knee4 ,_m g>m5ts 7 p>ti-col\r$1 i4e41 "o side 0 "o col\r & ! o!r side ( ano!r col\r4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t black came into use z a m\rn+ col\r dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,a mantle 0 worn by m5 ov] ! cti-h>di1 rea*+ to ! ankles & fa/5$ on ! "r %\ld] by sev]al buttons1 :ile ! hood 0 fa/5$ to ! mantle4 ,9 ?is reign ! *ausses 7 made l trunk hose1 & fitt$ tightly to ! limbs4 ,po9t$ %oes 7 worn1 & a curi\s =m ( hat ) turn$-up brim & tall fea!rs 0 introduc$4 ,! l[] class ( lab\r]s dress$ z _! fancy guid$ !m1 s t all ! fa%ions ( prec$+ reigns may be recognis$ 9 _! attire4 ,! ladies dress$ v sumptu\sly dur+ ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iii4 ,an innovation 9 _! co/ume 0 a k9d ( sp5c] or wai/coat1 fac$ & bord]$ ) fur1 to :i* sometimes sleeves rea*+ to ! wai/ 7 worn4 ,! cti-h>di 0 also adopt$ z a fem99e g>m5t4 ,9 ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 ! co/umes 7 ev] *ang+1 ! ,k+ himself be+ ! greate/ fop1 & extravagances 9 =m & sumptu\sness ( mat]ial 0 c>ri$ to a rem>kable excess4 ,hol9%$ says 8he _h "o cote :i* he caus$ to be made = him ( gold & 7preci\s7 /ones1 valu$ at #cj1jjj m>ks0 7a m>k be+ #acs4 #d;d474 ,! fam\s portrait ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey is a f9e example ( ! dress ( an extravagant ,k+ ( t "t4 ,! fa%ion ( embroid]+ ! dress ) h]aldic devices1 family badges1 initials1 & mottoes became common dur+ ?is p]iod4 ,! edges ( ! g>m5ts 7 also cut & scallop$1 v ri*ly decorat$1 & (t5 set ) preci\s /ones4 ,! s]vants ( ! nobility 7 sumptu\sly attir$1 & !re 0 univ]sal extravagance ?r\gh\t ! nation4 ,s extreme 0 ! dress ( ! c\rti]s t x 0 said to be difficult to di/+ui% ! sex ( ! we>] if ! face 7 turn$ away4 ,co/umes 7 n only worn wide & fl[+1 b !y sometimes w5t to ! o!r extreme1 ! g>m5ts be+ worn v %ort & tight-fitt+4 ,! %oes 7 made ) v long po9ts call$ crack[es 7s nam$ f ,crac[1 9 ,pol&74 ,sometimes ! po9ts 7 s long t !y 7 fa/5$ to ! knee by *a9s ( gold & silv]4 ,ladies' dresses 9 ?is reign did n diff] mu* f ^? ( ,edw>d ,,iii4's1 b tippets 7 disc>d$1 & ! dresses 7 ornam5t$1 l ! m5's1 ) h]aldic devices1 initials1 etc4 ,*auc] has giv5 u ! be/ in=mation reg>d+ ! co/umes ( ! diff]5t grades ( ,engli% society dur+ ?is reign4 ,! upp] classes wore a %ort jupon1 or tight-fitt+ ve/1 p>ti-col\r$1 ) n>r[ wai/ belt & tight sleeves4 ,a loose body g>m5t1 ) full-hang+ scallop$ sleeves1 0 also worn4 ,ov] all 0 worn a great g[n1 trail+ on ! gr\nd1 ) full1 long sleeves & a high coll> fitt+ tightly "u ! *94 ,bo? hoods & felt caps 7 worn1 & a peculi> v>iety ( ! latt] 0 9 fa%ion =m$ ( /rips arrang$ 9 fan fa%ion4 ,! hair ( ! m5 0 worn long1 & 0 curl$ ) great c>e4 ,! be>d 0 =k$1 & ! m\/a*es 7 long & droop+4 ,! l[] ord]s v>i$ little 9 _! dress f t ( ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iii4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ca4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a nobleman ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 7,,ms4 ,bod4 ,auct4 ,d41 iv4 #ag47 ,a good example ( ! co/ume ( ! nobility ( ! "t4 ,! dalmatica is pla9ly %[n1 op5 up ! front4 ,9 ! ,,ms4 x is r$1 decorat$ ) gr\ps ( spots1 ) a :ite l9+4 ,! mantle is blue2 ! long gloves are gre54 ,r$ *ausses are worn on ! legs1 ) a cross-g>t]+ ( gold f ! toes upw>ds4 ,! hat is blue1 & a small portion ( ! knick]s is also %[n4 7,fig4 #b73 ,! hood or capu*on1 ) a long tail z worn 9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,ii4 7,fig4 #c73 ,co/ume ( a man 9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iii41 f ! brass ( ,rob]t ,braun*e1 #acfd1 at ,k+'s ,lynn4 ,he is dress$ 9 ! pla9 co/ume ( ! p]iod1 :ile a hat ) a fea!r is worn ov] ! hood4 7,figs4 #d & #e73 ,hats ( ! "t ( ,edw>d ,,iii41 probably made ( :ite felt1 ) col\r$ turn$-up brims & long fea!rs4 7,fig4 #f73 ,co/ume ( a y\? 9 ,e>ly ,plantag5et times4 ,he we>s an ornam5tal tippet r\nd ! neck1 ) a pla91 bord]$ tunic1 tight at ! wai/1 & clos$ all r\nd4 ,he also we>s *ausses & high boots4 7,fig4 #g73 ,co/ume ( a lady 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,iii41 f ,mat!w ,p>is's 8,lives ( ! ,(fas40 7,cotton ,,ms41 ,n]o ,d #a47 ,! dress is v simple1 !re is an abs5ce ( ornam5t or decoration1 & ! g[n is loose1 fall+ to ! feet 9 ample folds4 7,figs4 #h & #i73 ,hoods at ! "t ( ,edw>d ,,ii4 7,fig4 #h73 ,%[s ! hood1 closely fitt+ to ! head & neck1 ) ! po9t t usually hangs d[n drawn up ov] ! head4 7,fig #i73 ,%[s ! long tail ( ! hood w\nd ar\nd ! head4 7,figs4 #aj & #aa73 ,! ord9>y co/ume ( ! lab\r+ classes dur+ ! "t ( ,edw>d ,,ii4 7,royal ,,ms41 #ad ,e #c47 ,! man we>s a long g[n1 button$ f ! neck to ! wai/1 ) loose hang+ sleeves bel[ ! elb[1 %[+ ! tight sleeve ( ! "t4 ,! head & %\ld]s are cov]$ by a hood hang+ d[n4 ,! %oes rea* to ! ankle1 are slightly ornam5t$1 & h po9t$ toes4 ,! woman c>ries a di/aff1 & we>s a hood or k]*ief swa!d r\nd ! head & knott$ at ! side4 ,%e has a wide1 %ort g[n1 :i*1 be+ caught up "u ! arm1 %[s ! "u g>m5t & high button$ boots4 7,fig #ab73 ,bronze figure ( a daught] ( ,edw>d ,,iii41 f 8 tomb 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey 7#acgg74 ,%e we>s a dress1 h[ev]1 :i* 0 9 vogue tw5ty ye>s e>li]4 ,! hair is arrang$ 9 squ>e plaits at ! sides ( ! head4 ,!re is an abs5ce ( any decorative mat]ial r\nd ! l[-cut neck1 & %e has v]tical front pockets 9 h] tightly fitt+ g[n1 ) long /ream]s hang+ f ! arms d[n to ! feet4 7,figs4 #ac & #ad73 ,two me?ods ( 8do+ ! hair0 9 ! "t ( ,edw>d ,i4 7,fig4 #ad73 ,%[s ! hair enclos$ 9 a caul or net1 & is spok5 ( z 8! reticulat$ head-dress40 7,fig4 #ae73 ,head-dress f ! ,braun*e ,brass4 7,k+'s ,lynn1 #aced47 7,fig4 #af73 ,! ,coif4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #cb4 7,fig4 #a73 ,bronze figure ( ,lionel ,duke ( ,cl>5ce 7a son ( ,edw>d ,,iii471 f ! tomb ( ! latt] 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey 7#acgg74 ,x illu/rates ! ord9>y co/ume ( a g5tleman at ! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,he is attir$ 9 ! cti-h>di or jupon1 fa/5$ d[n ! front ) buttons1 & we>s an ornam5t$ girdle ar\nd ! hips1 :ile a l>ge1 full mantle rea*es d[n to ! ankles4 ,! *ausses are v simil> 9 appe>ance to trunk hose1 & fit tightly to ! limbs2 :ile ! be>d is =k$ aft] ! fa%ion ( ! p]iod4 7,fig #b73 ,brass ( ,joan1 ,lady de ,cobham1 #acbj1 at ,cobham1 ,k5t4 ,%e we>s a k9d ( wimple "u ! *9 call$ ! gorget 7:i* copies a "p ( ! knightly arm\r ( ! p]iod71 ) a c\vre-*ef ov] ! head fall+ on to ! %\ld]s1 complet+ ! head-dress4 ,%e we>s an "u g>m5t ) tight-fitt+ sleeves1 :i* are closely button$ to ! wri/1 & a loose robe ) loose sleeves t]m9at+ bel[ ! elb[4 7,fig #c73 ,a fop ( ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 :5 ! fa%ion ( 8cutt+0 ! mantles 9 patt]ns rea*$ a v absurd limit4 ,! sleeves are cut at ! edges into a numb] ( acan?us-l lobes1 & are l9$ ) ano!r col\r4 ,! robe has a high coll>1 is v full1 & hangs 9 loose folds to ! gr\nd4 ,! %oes1 :i* are elaborately pi]c$ & cut1 are ( ! long-to$ v>iety kn[n z 8crack[es10 & ! po9t ( ! toe is fa/5$ to ! leg bel[ ! knee4 ,he also c>ries a long purse or bag susp5d$ f ! girdle4 7,h>l4 ,,ms41 #acai47 7,fig4 #d73 ,co/ume ( ! e>ly "p ( ,edw>d ,,iii4's reign4 ,a semi-milit>y dress ) a brea/plate worn "u ! cte-h>di4 ,a v *>act]i/ic feature ( ! co/ume is =m$ by ! tippets--long /rips ( :ite clo?1 :i* are fa/5$ to ! arms above ! elb[4 7,,ms4 #ag ,e vi47 7,fig4 #e73 ,co/ume ( a lab\r] ( ! bett] class ( ! "t ( ,edw>d ,,iii4 ,! tail ( ! hood is worn ar\nd ! head4 7,fig #f73 ,co/ume ( a nobleman 9 ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 probably repres5t+ "o ( 8 royal uncles4 7,royal ,,ms41 #bj ,b vi47 ,x %[s ano!r extravagant dress ( ! p]iod4 ,! g[n is abbreviat$ to ! hips2 ! sleeves are wide1 & ! *ausses are tight-fitt+ to ! limbs2 :ile ! %oes h long po9t$ toes4 ,he we>s a jewell$ circlet ar\nd ! =ehead4 7,figs4 #g1 #h1 #i73 ,co/umes ( ladies 9 ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 7,fig4 #g73 ,%[s ! sideless g>m5t fac$ ) fur1 t]m9at+ 9 long1 full skirts worn ov] ! kirtle 7or loose g[n74 7,fig4 #i73 ,%[s a lady ) ! out] sleeveless g>m5t1 s long z to be ga!r$ up & c>ri$ "u ! arm4 7,figs4 #aj1 #aa1 #ab73 ,v>i\s =ms ( head-dresses ( m5 ( ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 7,fig4 #ac73 ,a s+ul> k9d ( hood cov]+ ! head & %\ld]s1 rea*+ to ! elb[s1 & hav+ po9t$ ends spread+ out at ea* side4 ,?is 0 worn 9 ! "t ( ,edw>d ,,iii4 ,,mail ,,arm\r4 ,pure mail arm\r1 i4e41 arm\r worn )\t additional def5ce ov] ! mail b ! heaume1 0 9 use f #aaej ,a4,d4 to #acjj ,a4,d41 b its use 0 f9ally discont9u$ ab\t #acej ,a4,d4 ,!re 7 sev]al k9ds ( mail1 & diff]5t ways ( repres5t+ x on effigies1 brasses1 etc41 viz43 7a7 ,mail app>5tly =m$ ( r+s or mailles1 sewn on to a lea!r g>m5t by ! edge only1 & arrang$ s t "o r+ ov]lapp$ ! next4 7b7 ,mail =m$ ( r[s ( r+s sewn on /rips ( l95 or lea!r1 ! /rips be+ !n appli$ to ! g>m5t4 7c7 ,mail =m$ ( r+s int]lock$ ) ea* o!r 7*a9 mail74 7d7 ,mail call$ 8b&$ mail10 9 :i* d\ble l9es sep>at$ ea* r[ ( l9ks4 7e7 ,arm\r =m$ ( r+s or small discs ( metal sewn flat all ov] ! g>m5t4 ,ano!r simil> k9d ( arm\r 0 =m$ ( scales or ov]lapp+ plates ( lea!r or metal1 fa/5$ to a lea!r or l95 f\ndation4 ,! *a9 mail or arm\r =m$ ( int]lac+ r+s 0 f9ally adopt$ ?r\gh\t ,we/]n ,europe1 be+ copi$ f t ( ! ,s>ac5s 9 ! ,crusades4 ,we h n _m contempor>y illu/rations ( ! arm\r & knightly app>el 9 ! p]iod betwe5 ! ,norman ,conque/ & ! ,edw>dian era4 ,!re are b few illum9at$ ,,mss42 sepul*ral monum5ts are n num]\s1 & ! valuable s]ies ( monum5tal brasses _h n begun4 ,! plait$ or mail %irt ( ! ,e>ly ,norman 0 sup]s$$ by a /\t1 quilt$ tunic1 also call$ ! haub]k1 rea*+ to ! knees & ) %ort sleeves1 & a coif or hood ( mail on ! head4 ,frequ5tly a metal brea/plate or pla/ron-de-f]1 & a /eel cap or *apel-de-f]1 7 worn "u ! mail4 ,sometimes ov] ! coif a close-fitt+ iron helmet 0 worn4 ,! haub]k sleeves 7 l5g!n$1 cov]+ ! h&s z mitt5s or f+]less gloves ( /rong lea!r /r5g!n$ by mail or pieces ( metal4 ,! legs 7 cov]$ ) long legg+s or trews ( mail call$ *ausses1 protect+ all ! l[] limbs f ! ?ighs to ! toes4 ,9 ! twelf? c5tury ! *a9 mail 0 made v light1 l t ( ! ,s>ac5s4 ,x 0 made ( /eel r+s1 connect$ ) ea* o!r1 )\t be+ fa/5$ to ! lea!r g>m5t worn und]nea?--simil>1 9 fact1 to ! ord9>y /eel purse4 ,on acc\nt ( x great co/1 ?is mail 0 n worn by ! common soldi]s4 ,b5ea? ! mail haub]k1 z an additional def5ce1 & to relieve ! pressure ( ! mail1 a quilt$ tunic 0 worn1 kn[n z a haketon1 or a gambeson4 ,! haketon 0 made ( buckram1 /uff$ ) cotton-wool & quilt$4 ,! gambeson 0 a sleev$ tunic1 ( /\t1 co>se l951 /uff$ ) flax or wool1 & sewn longitud9ally4 ,9 ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,i41 ! close-fitt+ helmet 0 sup]s$$ by ! ,heaume1 great helm or tilt+ helmet4 ,x 0 l>ge en\gh to put easily ov] ! head1 & long en\gh to re/ on ! %\ld]s4 ,x 0 at fir/ ne>ly cyl9drical1 & g5]ally _h a flat top4 ,!re 7 op5+s 9 front to all[ ! we>] to see & brea!4 ,dur+ ! mail p]iod1 no heaume is repres5t$ ) a movable visor4 ,9 monum5tal effigies & brasses1 a knight is (t5 repres5t$ ) 8 heaume "u 8 head z a pill[1 & x 0 ! cu/om actually to use x = t purpose :5 re/+ aft] a day's j\rney or fight+4 ,! heaume 0 only put on :5 actual fight+ 9 battle or 9 ! li/s 0 ab\t to comm5ce4 ,at o!r times1 x 0 c>ri$ at ! saddle-b[1 &1 le/ x %\ld be dropp$ or /ruck (f :5 on ! head1 x 0 fa/5$ to ! body arm\r by a *a91 pass+ ?r\gh a r+ 9 front4 ,t[>ds ! close ( ! twelf? c5tury ! use ( armorial be>+s 0 introduc$4 ,ea* knight assum$ a device1 :i* 0 exclusively us$ by him1 by :i* he 0 recognis$1 & :i* became h]$it>y 9 8 family4 ,?is device 0 usually display$ on ! %ield1 & on ! surcoat1 :5 ! use ( t g>m5t 0 adopt$4 ,! =m ( ! %ield 0 *ang$ f t ( a kite to t ( a 8heat]10 or flat-iron4 ,x 0 also made mu* small]4 ,! arms ( ! knight 7 ! sword1 ! lance1 ! mace1 ! battle-axe1 ! milit>y flail1 & ! m>tel4 ,! sword belt1 slung ov] ! %\ld] 9 ,norman times1 0 n[ fa/5$ ar\nd ! wai/ or hips4 ,! sword v>i$ little 9 =m f t ( ,norman times4 ,! lance 0 nev] us$ z a javel91 b 0 made /rong1 g5]ally ( uni=m ?ickness1 & v>i$ 9 l5g?4 ,! head 0 v broad1 & )\t b>bs4 ,all knights _h a po9t$ or swall[-tail$ p5non fa/5$ to ! lance2 b nobles :o br\ght a numb] ( reta9]s to battle display$ a squ>e bann] on ! lance4 ,^! knights 7 call$ ,bann]ets4 ,foot soldi]s 7 arm$ ) ! cross-b[--a =midable weapon ) :i* %ort1 /\t missiles1 call$ bolts or qu>rels1 7 %ot--! long-b[1 ! halb]d1 ! bill1 ! guis>me 7all %aft$ weapons71 & ! sl+4 ,9 "t1 ! *ausses 7 cut into two pieces at ! knees2 ! l[] "p1 correspond+ ) ! mod]n /ock+1 protect$ ! leg1 & ! upp] portion protect$ ! ?igh4 ,9 ord] to protect ! knee1 a knee-cap1 or g5\illire ( cuir b\illi1 0 fa/5$ ov] x4 ,! sleeves ( ! haub]k 7 simil>ly cut into two p>ts at ! elb[1 & elb[ caps1 or c\dires1 ( lea!r came into use ov] ! elb[ jo9t4 ,at ! end ( ! #ab? c5tury1 a fl[+ surcoat ( l95 or silk 0 worn ov] ! arm\r4 ,?is g5]ally bore ! same h]aldic device z ! %ield1 & its use 0 probably to less5 ! effect ( ! sun's rays ^u ! mail4 ,at fir/1 ?is surcoat _h no sleeve1 b 9 ! second half ( ! #ac? c5tury sleeves 7 add$ to x1 & at ! same "t ! haub]k 0 %ort5$4 ,ab\t #abgj1 ! mail$ mitt5s 7 divid$ into f+]s1 & ! helmet 0 r\nd$ at ! top4 ,! spurs consi/$ ( s+le spikes1 & 7 call$ 8pryck0 spurs4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #cc4 7,fig4 #a73 ,brass ( ,sir ,rog] de ,trump+ton1 9 ,trump+ton ,*ur*1 ,cambridge1 #abhi4 ,! head re/s on ! ,heaume1 :i* is ( l>ge size4 ,! latt] is fa/5$ to a rope ar\nd ! wai/1 by means ( a *a94 ,! knight is repres5t$ ) 8 legs cross$4 ,x 0 ?\ght at "o "t t ?is %[$ t ! knight _h tak5 "p 9 ! ,crusades1 b x is n[ consid]$ by "s t he 0 probably a b5efactor to ! *ur*4 ,o!rs ?9k t x 0 m]ely a device ( ! engrav] to less5 ! /iff appe>ance ( ! figure4 ,all ! features ( mail arm\r to :i* att5tion has already be5 direct$1 may easily be se5 9 ?is figure1 & ! knees are cov]$ by g5\illires 7probably ( cuir b\illi71 :i* are ! fir/ pieces ( additional arm\r worn ov] ! mail4 ,x w be notic$ 9 ?is plate t !re are f\r ways 9 :i* mail arm\r is repres5t$1 viz41 9 ,figs4 #a1 #b1 & #c1 #e1 & #i4 7,fig4 #b73 ,head ( ! effigy ( ,william ,e>l ( ,pembroke1 :i* %[s v cle>ly ! way 9 :i* ! coif de mailles 0 secur$ to ! head1 & lapp$ r\nd ! face1 be+ fa/5$ to ! left side1 ne> ! temple1 by a /rap & buckle4 7,fig4 #c73 ,head ( an effigy 9 ,p]%ore ,*ur*1 ,worce/]%ire1 9 :i* ! lappet ( ! coif is repres5t$ z unloos$4 7,fig4 #d73 ,a great heaume ( ! #ac? c5tury1 f\nd at ,eynes=d ,ca/le1 ,k5t4 ,! r+ at ! bottom is = ! atta*m5t ( ! heaume to ! body arm\r4 7,fig4 #e73 ,! heads ( a gr\p ( soldi]s1 f ! ,pa9t$ ,*amb] at ,we/m9/]4 ,9 ?is w be se5 ! great div]sity ( equipm5t f\nd among knights4 ,9 ! re> are %[n two bann]s & a p5non4 7,fig4 #f73 ,heaume at ,/aunton1 ,notts41 #acab4 ,on ! top is se5 ! /aple = affix+ ! cre/ to ! heaume4 7,fig4 #g73 ,! heaume ( ,ri*>d ,i41 tak5 f 8 ,great ,seal1 %[+ a fan-%ap$ ornam5t at ! top1 ) a lion pa9t$ ^u ! cr[n4 7,fig4 #h73 ,soldi]s 9 a boat1 engag$ 9 siege op]ations4 ,"o has a /aff sl+1 :i* is app>5tly *>g$ ) "s combu/ibles4 ,! ar*] is also dis*>g+ ei!r a bag ( quick-lime or "s combu/ible4 ,! sl+]s 7 g5]ally b>e-head$1 & wore no body arm\r4 ,! ar*] we>s a coif ( mail or lea!r on 8 head1 & a sleeveless haub]k on 8 body4 ,! ?ird soldi] c>ries a pole-axe1 a sword1 & a spe>4 7,fig4 #i73 ,head f ! brass ( ,sir ,john ,d',ab]n\n1 9 ,/oke ,d',ab]n\n ,*ur*1 ,surrey1 #abgg4 ,?is is ! e>lie/ kn[n example ( brass4 ,! *a9 mail is repres5t$ 9 great detail1 e l9k be+ %[n4 ,fig4 ,a is a portion ( ! mail enl>g$4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,a spe> ) p5non1 f ! same brass4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,a m>tel-de-f]1 :i* 0 us$ = break+ or dragg+ (f ! r+s ( ! haub]k1 & op5+ a passage = o!r deadly weapons4 7,fig4 #ab73 ,a guis>me1 a p[]ful1 scy!-%ap$1 %aft$ weapon1 us$ by foot soldi]s4 7,fig4 #ac73 ,a bann]1 su* z 0 c>ri$ by ,knights ,bann]ets1 :o mu/ h a foll[+ ( at lea/ fifty m5-at-arms be=e !y 7 qualifi$ to c>ry ?is4 ,,e>ly ,,engli% ,,ar*itecture4 ,! ,transition4--,at ! close ( ! ,norman p]iod1 ! quality ( ! masonry 0 v good1 & ! workm5 _h le>nt h[ to economise _! mat]ials4 ,! improvem5t cont9u$ until ! "w rea*$ a high degree ( p]fection4 ,! m\ld+s1 ! ornam5t1 ! sculpture1 & all o!r details are ( a light] /yle1 & m highly f9i%$4 ,! ar*itecture t rema9s ( ?is p]iod is aptly t]m$ 8,transitional40 ,! transition1 f ! r\nd-ar*$ ,norman /yle1 ) its heavy & massive appe>ance1 & its /rongly-m>k$ horizontal l9es1 to ! graceful ,e>ly ,engli% /yle1 ) its prom95t v]tical l9es1 is v gradual1 & ! fir/ /ep 9 ?is direction 0 ! introduction to g5]al use ( ! po9t$ ar*4 ,?is is consid]$ ! mo/ *>act]i/ic elem5t ( ,go?ic ar*itecture--its ev]-increas+ use p]mitt+ ! sl5d]ness ( proportion1 lightness1 & l(t9ess ( effect to be c>ri$ out to a m>vell\s ext5t4 ,pr(essor ,freeman has trac$ ! adoption ( ! po9t$ ar* 9 ,we/]n ,europe to influ5ce ( ,s>ac5ic ar*itecture1 :i* 0 ext5d$ 9 ! ,we/ ?r\gh ! ,crusades4 ,9 ! e>ly examples1 ! features & g5]al *>act]i/ics ( ! build+s are1 9 ! ma91 ! same z 9 ! ,norman /yle1 b ) ! po9t$ ar* employ$ 9 place ( ! r\nd-head$ "o4 ,go?ic ,ar*itecture4--,?is t]m 0 orig9ally appli$ to ! m$ival /yles at ! "t ( ! ,r5aissance4 ,x 0 giv5 z a t]m ( contempt :5 x 0 ! fa%ion to write ,lat9 & to expect x to become ! univ]sal language4 ,engli% ,go?ic is usually divid$ into ?ree p]iods or /yles1 viz43 ,e>ly ,engli%1 ,decorat$1 & ,p]p5dicul>1 prevail+ 7approximately7 dur+ ! #ac?1 #ad? & #ae? c5turies respectively1 al?\gh !re 0 no /rict division betwe5 !m4 ,e>ly ,engli% ,reigns ( ,ri*>d ,i41 ,john & ,h5ry ,,iii4 7,a4,d4 #aahi-abgb74--,! *>act]i/ics ( ?is /yle z comp>$ ) ! ,norman are1 8! comp>ative lightness ( ! /ructures1 ! long1 n>r[1 lancet-%ap$1 po9t$ w9d[s1 ! boldly project+ buttresses & p9nacles1 ! acute pit* ( ! ro(1 & g5]ally ! v>iety1 ! beauty ( proportion1 & ! s+ul> grace & vig\r ( ! ornam5ts40 ,int]nally1 we h po9t$ ar*es1 support$ on sl5d] & l(ty pill>s4 ,:5 ! /yle _h become fully e/abli%$1 ! build]s appe> to h revell$ 9 x ev5 to exub]ance & excess4 ,*ur* build+ _h receiv$ a sev]e *eck 9 ! reign ( ,john1 dur+ ! int]dict ( #af ye>s t re/$ ^u ! k+dom1 b soon aft] ! accession ( ,h5ry ,,iii41 :o 0 himself an en?usia/1 ar*itecture reviv$ & develop$ v rapidly4 ,"o ( ! *ief *>act]i/ics ( ! ,e>ly ,engli% /yles consi/s 9 ! m\ld+s1 9 :i* a new pr9ciple 0 embodi$4 ,?is 0 ! idea ( obta9+ effective comb9ations ( light & %ade by means ( 8und]cutt+40 ,su* a comb9ation ( project+ r\nds & deep holl[s w\ld pres5t to ! eye ! appe>ance ( alt]nate b&s ( light & %ade1 ! dep?s ( ! holl[s caus+ !m to appe> almo/ black4 ,! mo/ *>act]i/ic ornam5t ( ?is /yle is ! 8dog-too?0 or 8too?0 ornam5t4 7,pl4 #cd1 ,figs4 #i & #aa47 ,x consi/s ( a s]ies ( fl[]s1 ea* ( ! f\r petals1 b5t backw>ds1 ! division betwe5 ! petals be+ plac$ 9 ! middle ( ! sides ( ! pyramid ?us =m$4 ,a v /rik+ peculi>ity is ! foliage us$ 9 sculpture1 :i* is te*nically kn[n z 8/iff-leaf foliage10 ?\gh ! /iffness is 9 ! /ems r ?an 9 ! leaves4 ,! latt] take ! =m ( a conv5tional ?ree-lob$ foliage4 7,pl4 #ce1 ,fig4 #a47 ,x copi$ no individual leaf1 8?\gh x has all ! ess5tial qualities ( ,nature40 ,its use gives great ri*ness ( effect to ! build+1 & is suppos$ to h be5 develop$ by gradual *ange f ! ,classical ,ord]s1 *iefly f ! ,ionic ,volute4 ,! ,crocket 0 also introduc$ z a new feature 9 ?is /yle4 ,x is an ornam5t us$ to decorate ! edges ( ! ar*itectural units1 & is suppos$ to be d]iv$ f ! crook ( a bi%op's pa/oral /aff4 ,9 f9e ,e>ly ,engli% "w ! ,abacus 7,pl4 #ce1 ,fig4 #a;,a7 is circul>1 & is deeply und]cut4 ,! ,pill>s are usually r\nd or octagonal4 ,!y are built ( l>ge blocks ( dress$ /one1 & s diff] f ! ,norman pill>s1 :i* consi/$ ( rubble ) a fac+ ( /one4 ,9 ! m important build+s !y are =m$ ( f\r or m sl5d] %afts ( ,purbeck m>ble1 :i* are plac$ ar\nd a l>ge circul> column ( /one1 & _! d>k col\r causes !m to 8/& out0 aga9/ ! pal] c5tral /one pi]4 ,! ,ar*es v>y 9 =m f a v blunt to a v %>p po9t1 b !y are g5]ally acutely po9t$1 & are (t5 ri*ly m\ld$1 z 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey4 ,! m\ld+s1 h[ev]1 are ! safe/ guide to ! /yle1 z ! =m ( ! po9t$ ar* l>gely dep5ds on conv5i5ce4 ,z a rule1 !y are g5]ally m acutely po9t$ 9 ! ca!drals & l>ge *ur*es1 :il/ !y are broad] 9 small *ur*es4 ,! ,w9d[s 9 e>li] examples are pla91 long1 & n>r[1 ) acutely po9t$ heads4 ,!y are frequ5tly spok5 ( z 8lancet-%ap$40 ,! e>lie/ =m is t ( a s+le light1 ) ar*$ head & )\t m\ld+ ( any k9d1 ext]nal or int]nal4 7,pl4 #cd1 ,fig4 #a47 ,w9d[s ( f\r lights are occasionally met )1 b g5]ally !y consi/ ( ?ree1 five1 or sev5 lights1 ris+ 9 height to ! c5tral "o4 ,!y are (t5 includ$ "u an ar*$ m\ld+ call$ a 8drip/one40 7,pl4 #cd1 ,figs4 #b1 #c1 #d;,a47 ,squ>e-head$ w9d[s are n uncommon1 b sometimes 9 ^! cases !re is an ar* or a drip/one 9 ! =m ( an ar* ov] ! w9d[4 ,:5 two lights 7 comb9$ "u "o ar*1 a blank space call$ a 8tympanum0 0 left betwe5 ! heads ( ! lights & ! ar*2 b 9 "t ?is space began to be pi]c$ ) ano!r small light1 g5]ally 9 ! =m ( a circle1 a trefoil1 or a quatrefoil1 :i* bo? reliev$ ! blank space & admitt$ m light4 7,pl4 #cd1 ,fig4 #c47 ,:5 ?is is done 9 ! /one "w1 x is call$ plate trac]y1 & f ?is is develop$ ! w9d[ trac]y ( lat] times4 ,! ,normans 7 d\btful ab\t _! skill 9 mak+ ceil+s ( /one to cov] l>ge spaces1 & consequ5tly !y g5]ally built timb] ro(s4 ,ov] small spaces1 h[ev]1 !y erect$ /one ceil+s or 8vaults10 :i* 7 q pla94 ,9 ?is p]iod ! vaults are di/+ui%$ by hav+ ribs 9 ! angles ( ! gro9s1 ) c>v$ masses ( foliage 9 /one1 call$ bosses1 at ! int]section ( ! ribs4 7,pl4 #cd1 ,fig4 #e47 ,! ,buttresses 7,pl4 #ce1 ,figs4 #d1 #e1 & #f71 in/ead ( be+ m]ely flat /rips ( masonry1 slightly project+ f ! wall1 z 9 ! ,norman ,p]iod1 h n[ a bold projection1 g5]ally dim9i%$ upw>ds by /ages1 & t]m9ate 9 a pla9 slope or a gable4 ,by ! use ( ?is =m ( buttress x 0 possible to r$uce ! ?ickness ( ! wall4 ,! corn] ( ! build+ _h a pair ( buttresses at "r angles to ! wall1 z if ea* wall _h be5 cont9u$ beyond ! po9t ( junction--nev] "o buttress plac$ diagonally1 z 9 subsequ5t p]iods4 ,fly+ ,buttresses at ?is p]iod became prom95t features 9 l>ge build+s4 ,!y are ar*es spr++ f ! wall buttresses to ! walls1 & !y c>ry (f ! weight & consequ5t 8?ru/0 ( ! ro(1 ov] ! c5tral space1 obliquely d[n to ! ext]nal buttress1 & s d[n to ! gr\nd4 ,! ,ro( 0 =m$ ( timb]1 & 0 cov]$ ) ! mat]ial mo/ easily procurable 9 ! di/rict4 ,a ?at* ( /raw or re$s 0 probably ! mo/ common2 %+les 7 procur$ :]e oak 0 pl5tiful1 & slabs ( /one & slate or tiles :]e !y 7 obta9able4 ,lead 0 g5]ally us$ only on v important build+s4 ,spires 7 also (t5 con/ruct$ ( timb]1 & :]e ! framework has become w>p$ & twi/$ by ! wea!r1 we h a grotesque appe>ance1 z 9 ! twi/$ spire ( ,*e/]field4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #cd4 7,fig4 #a73 ,simple lancet w9d[4 7,fig4 #b73 ,a triple-lancet w9d[ f ,w>m+ton1 9 ,nor?ants 7ab\t ,a4,d4 #abcj74 ,! lights are plac$ "u an ar* or drip/one ) ! 8eye0 solid4 7,fig4 #c73 ,a w9d[ ( two lights1 ) a quatrefoil ( plate trac]y 9 ! head1 & a drip/one1 t]m9at$ by ! *>act]i/ic ornam5t call$ a 8mask0 or a 8buckle10 f ,*>lton-on-,otmoor1 ,ox=d%ire 7ab\t ,a4,d4 #abdj74 7,fig4 #d73 ,five lancet w9d[s "u "o ar*1 ) ! sp&rils pi]c$1 =m+ :at are call$ ! 8eyes0 ( ! w9d[1 f ,ir?l+bor\gh1 ,nor?ants 7ab\t ,a4,d4 #abhj74 7,fig4 #e73 ,e>ly ,engli% vault1 gro9$1 ) m\ld$ ribs on ! gro9s only1 f ,salisbury ,ca!dral 7ab\t ,a4,d4 #abdj74 7,fig4 #f73 ,po9t$ ar* 9 ! por*1 f ,b>nack1 ,nor?ants 7ab\t ,a4,d4 #abej74 7,fig4 #g73 ,a trefoil-ar*$ doorway4 7,fig4 #h73 ,*>act]i/ic ,e>ly ,engli% m\ld+ 79 section74 7,fig4 #i73 8,dog-too?0 ornam5t 9 pr(ile1 %[+ h[ ! "n probably arose4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,a transitional t[] & spire1 f ,/4 ,d5is1 ,slea=d1 ,l9coln%ire4 ,x %[s a b& ( int]lac$1 r\nd-head$ ar*es1 :ile 9 ! belfry light x exhibits ! po9t$ ar*4 ,! f\r corn]s are fill$ up ) half-pyramids incl9+ f ! angles4 ,?is angle-pyramid1 :i* m>ks ! transition f ! squ>e =m ( ! t[] to ! po9t$ =m ( ! spire1 is kn[n z ! broa*1 & ! 8broa*-spire0 is q ! *>act]i/ic =m assum$ by ! e>ly /one spires 9 ,engl&4 7,fig4 #aa73 8,dog-too?0 ornam5t1 front view4 7,fig4 #ab73 ,door ) 8%\ld]$0 ar*1 f ,lutton1 ,hunt+don%ire 7ab\t ,a4,d4 #abjj74 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate4 #ce4 7,fig4 #a73 ,capitals 9 ,l9coln ,ca!dral 7,a4,d4 #abbj71 %[+ ! m\ld$ abacus 7,a7 ) und]cutt+1 8/iff-leaf0 foliage1 & ! 8dog-too?0 ornam5t us$ betwe5 ! %afts4 7,fig4 #b73 ,transitional ,norman capital1 at ,oakham ,ca/le1 ,rutl& 7built betwe5 ,a4,d4 #aafe & #aaia74 ,an excell5t specim5 ( transitional "w1 reta9+ a good deal ( ! ,norman "*1 b late & ri*4 7,fig4 #c73 ,m\ld$ capital 9 ! =m ( a pla9 bell rev]s$1 f ,we/m9/] ,abbey 7,a4,d4 #abej74 7,figs4 #d1 #e1 #f73 ,buttresses4 7,fig4 #g73 ,fly+ buttresses1 f ,we/m9/] ,abbey4 7,figs4 #h & #i73 ,plans ( ,e>ly ,engli% columns4 ,,mix$ ,,mail ,,& ,,plate ,,arm\r4 ,arms & arm\r1 ) all ! accompanim5ts ( *ivalry1 dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury rea*$ a pit* ( great spl5d\r4 ,! ,fr5* ,w>s & ! extravagance ( co/ume at ! ,c\rts ( ,edw>d ,,iii4 & ,ri*>d ,,ii4 enc\rag$ ?is4 ,f ! con/ant use ( arm\r 9 ! w>s & 9 ! t\rnam5t1 _m modifications 7 f\nd necess>y to r5d] x m com=table & also m ?or\ghly protective4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury additions _h be5 made to ! mail = ! latt] purpose1 & ?is practice 0 cont9u$ 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury by ! addition ( pieces ( 8plate0 or %eet /eel1 until 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 knights 7 clo!d 9 complete suits ( plate arm\r4 ,! *ange 01 h[ev]1 v gradual1 & ! evolution may be be/ trac$ by consid]+ x z tak+ place 9 c]ta9 fairly def9ite /ages4 ,! foll[+ is ! usual division adopt$3 #a/ ,p]iod3 c4 #acjj ,a4,d4--c4 #acbe ,a4,d4 #bnd ,p]iod3 c4 #acbe ,a4,d4--c4 #acce ,a4,d4 #crd ,p]iod3 c4 #acce ,a4,d4--c4 #acfj ,a4,d4 #d? ,p]iod3 c4 #acfj ,a4,d4--c4 #adje ,a4,d4 #e? or ,transition ,p]iod3 c4 #adje ,a4,d4--c4 #adaj ,a4,d4 #a/ ,p]iod3 c4 #acjj ,a4,d4--c4 #acbe ,a4,d4 ,dur+ ?is p]iod ! mail arm\r rema9$ practically ! same1 b /eel plates 7 fa/5$ by /raps 7#a7 ov] ! back ( ! upp] arm & ! front ( ! =e-arm 7! p>ts mo/ expos$ to a bl[72 7#b7 ov] ! %9s 7jamb>ts7 & cont9u$ ov] ! front ( ! feet z a s]ies ( metal plates rivet$ to "o ano!r1 call$ soll]ets2 7#c7 9 front ( ! %\ld]s & to protect ! armpits 7r\ndles47 ,gauntlets or arm\r$ gloves 7) sep>ate f+]s7 7 introduc$ ab\t ?is "t4 ,! surcoat 0 worn %ort] & ) less fulness ab\t ! body4 #bnd ,p]iod3 c4 #acbe ,a4,d4--c4 #acce ,a4,d4 ,! surcoat 0 sup]s$$ by a g>m5t call$ a cyclas1 :i* 0 slit op5 & lac$ up at ! sides1 & 0 mu* %ort] 9 front ?an beh9d4 7,see ,fig4 #a1 ,pl4 #cf47 ,x ?us %[s ! escallop$ & fr+$ bord] ( a padd$ g>m5t or gambeson worn betwe5 ! cyclas & ! mail haub]k1 :ile bel[ ! mail 0 worn ano!r padd$ g>m5t--! haketon4 ,! :ole mu/ h =m$ a v cumb]some comb9ation4 ,! plates on ! arms 7 enl>g$ s z to =m cyl9d]s1 encas+ ! limbs1 op5+ ) a h+e at "o side & fa/5+ ) buckle & /rap or rivets at ! o!r side4 ,^? cov]+ ! =e-arm 7 worn "u ! sleeve ( ! haub]k1 :i* 0 (t5 cut (f bel[ ! elb[4 ,plates 7 /ill worn on ! knees1 legs1 & feet4 ,! ,bas9et1 a comp>atively light & close-fitt+ helmet1 0 worn )\t a mail coif b5ea? x2 b to protect ! neck a k9d ( tippet ( mail call$ ! camail 0 fa/5$ by laces to ! bas9et1 & hung d[n ov] ! brea/1 back1 & %\ld]s4 ,! bas9et 0 op5 at ! face or _h a movable face-piece 7visor or v5taille74 ,9 battle x 0 worn ) ! face-piece1 b = ! t\rnam5t ! visor 0 remov$ & ! heaume or great helmet1 ) its cre/ & mantl+1 plac$ ov] x4 ,! %ield 0 small & ( ! 8heat]0 %ape1 & 8pryck0 spurs gave place to spurs ) r[els4 #crd ,p]iod3 c4 #acce ,a4,d4--c4 #acfj ,a4,d4 ,spl9t$ arm\r1 i4e41 arm\r consi/+ ( small ov]lapp+ plates 7l ! %ell ( a lob/]71 0 introduc$1 & a g>m5t call$ ! p\rpo9t 7l a haketon1 b made ( f9] mat]ial1 fac$ ) silk or ornam5t$ ) ne$lework7 0 worn ov] ! haub]k4 ,! surcoat 0 aga9 worn1 %ort5$ to ! knee & %ap$ to fit ! body closely above ! wai/4 ,! armorial be>+s ( ! we>] 7 embroid]$ 9 silks ^u x4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t !re 0 no uni=m--9 ! mod]n s5se--= knights & m5-at-arms1 b ea* dress$ z he lik$2 & !re 0 consequ5tly a great v>iety ( arms & arm\r 9 a s+le troop4 #d? or ,camail ,p]iod3 c4 #acfj ,a4,d4--c4 #adje ,a4,d4 ,?is is call$ ! camail p]iod because by ?is "t ! cu/om ( we>+ ! camail _h become univ]sal4 ,! legs & arms 7 n[ entirely encas$ 9 plates ( arm\r1 ) soll]ets on ! feet1 :i* 7 acutely po9t$ at ! toes 9 imitation ( ! prevail+ civil fa%ion4 ,! haub]k 0 %ort5$ to ! middle ( ! ?igh1 0 sleeveless1 & 0 worn ov] a globul> brea/plate4 ,r\ndles disappe>$ f ! %\ld]s & elb[s1 & lam9at$ plates took _! place1 giv+ fre] movem5t to ! limbs4 ,! sleeveless surcoat 0 n[ call$ ! jupon4 ,x fitt$ tightly ov] ! haub]k1 & 0 slightly %ort] ?an x1 s t ! l[] edge ( ! haub]k %[$ beh9d x4 ,! jupon 0 made ( a ri* mat]ial1 blazon$ ) ! arms ( ! we>]1 & 0 escallop$ along ! bottom edge4 ,! long1 /raight sword1 ) decorat$ hilt & scabb>d1 0 hung on ! left side f a ri*ly ornam5t$ belt1 & on ! "r side 0 susp5d$ a small1 po9t$ dagg] call$ ! mis]icorde4 ,aft] #achj ! bas9et 0 made %ort]1 b ! great heaume /ill cont9u$ to be worn1 (t5 be+ /r5g!n$ by an additional plate on ! left side1 :]e ! we>] 0 likely to receive bl[s4 ,! sculptur$ effigy ( ! ,black ,pr9ce on 8 tomb at ,cant]bury is a typical repres5tation ( a knight ( ! camail p]iod4 #e? or ,transition ,p]iod3 c4 #adje ,a4,d4--c4 #adaj ,a4,d4 ,!re are a few examples ( knights clo!d entirely 9 plate arm\r1 ) ! exception ( ! bas9et & camail1 & ?is is !re=e call$ ! ,transition ,p]iod lead+ to ! "t ( ! complete adoption ( plate arm\r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #cf4 7,fig4 #a73 ,brass ( ,sir ,john ,creke1 9 ,we/ley ,wat]less ,*ur*1 ,cambridge%ire1 #acbe4 ,x %[s a po9t$ & flut$ bas9et ) ! camail ( 8b&$ mail0 fa/5$ to x4 ,! haub]k1 also ( b&$ mail1 is se5 j above ! knees1 & ! legs & arms are cov]$ ) ! same k9d ( arm\r4 ,! r\ndles1 tak+ ! =m ( lions' faces1 are se5 at ! %\ld]s & elb[4 ,! upp] arms are cov]$ ) plates ov] ! mail1 & ! =e-arm cov]$ 9 ! same way ) plates1 :i* pass "u ! %ort sleeves ( ! haub]k4 ,! cyclas is se5 to be loose1 gird$ at ! wai/1 & %ort] 9 front ?an beh9d4 ,"u x is %[n ! escallop$ edge ( ! gambeson2 b5ea? t ! po9t$ end+ ( ! haub]k1 & "u t aga9 ! folds ( ! haketon may be se5 rea*+ to ! knee-caps4 ,jamb]ts or %9 pieces cov] ! %9s1 & are cont9u$ to cov] ! feet z soll]ets4 7,fig4 #b73 ,a heaume or great helmet1 worn 9 ! t\rnam5t ov] ! bas9et & re/+ ^u ! %\ld]s 7#acge74 7,figs4 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f73 ,%aft$ weapons ( ! p]iod4 7,fig4 #c73 ,a bill1 also call$ a fau*>d or guis>me1 ( ! "t ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 7,f a ,,ms47 7,figs4 #d & #e73 ,pikes4 7,fig4 #f73 ,a pole-axe 7! v\lge74 7,fig4 #g73 ,a knight we>+ a gambeson1 f ! monum5tal effigy ( ,sir ,rob]t ,%url&1 c4 #acjj 7aft] ,a%d[n74 7,fig4 #h73 ,a heaume1 f ! brass ( ,sir ,hugh ,ha/+s1 #acdg ,a4,d4 ,x %[s ! mantl+1 or little mantle1 hang+ ov] ! back ( ! helmet1 ! cre/1 & ! torse1 or wrea?1 hid+ ! junction ( ! cre/ ) ! helmet4 7,fig4 #i73 ,a piece ( arm\r1 %[+ ! 8spl9ts0 or small ov]lapp+ plates 9 ! elb[ jo9t4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,a bas9et1 %[+ ! loops by :i* ! camail is fa/5$ to x4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,heaume & cre/ ( ,sir ,ge(frey ,lut]ell1 f ! ,lut]ell ,psalt]1 #acde ,a4,d4 ,x has a r\nd top1 a movable visor1 & a cre/ on :i* are display$ ! we>]'s 8arms40 7,fig4 #ab73 ,a 8sn\t-nos$0 bas9et ) movable visor or v5taille ( ! "t ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 ) ! visor rais$4 7,fig4 #ac73 ,! same ) ! visor l[]$1 z on ! battlefield4 7,fig4 #ad73 ,! brass ( ,sir ,rob]t ,symborne1 9 ,little ,horkesley ,*ur*1 ,essex1 #acia ,a4,d41 %[+ ! arms & arm\r ( a knight ( ! camail p]iod4 ,! head is cov]$ ) a conical bas9et 7)\t a face-piece71 to :i* ! camail ( *a9 mail is fa/5$4 ,! l[] edge ( ! haub]k is %[n bel[ ! close-fitt+1 sleeveless jupon :i* cov]s ! body4 ,! arms1 legs1 & feet are cov]$ ) plate arm\r1 & ! lam9at$ plates :i* sup]s$$ r\ndles are se5 at ! %\ld]s & elb[s4 ,! h&s are protect$ by gauntlets1 & ! knight is arm$ ) long1 /raight sword & mis]icorde4 7,fig4 #ae73 ,a mace1 f a ,,ms41 c4 #acej4 ,,lanca/rian ,,& ,,yorki/ ,,p]iods4 ,,male ,,co/umes4 ,! effigies ( ,k+ ,h5ry ,,iv4 & 8 ,que5 at ,cant]bury are "s ( ! mo/ spl5did ( our royal effigies1 unit+ ri*ness1 gr&eur1 & simplicity4 ,! ,k+'s cr[n is p>ticul>ly rem>kable = its magnific5ce 7,fig4 #a47 ,s9ce !re _h be5 v great extravagance 9 co/ume dur+ ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii41 :5 he came to ! ?rone ,h5ry reviv$ ! sumptu>y laws ( 8 pr$ecessors regulat+ ! quality ( ! clo?+ to be worn by ! v>i\s classes ( 8 subjects4 ,f\r ye>s aft] t1 all sla%+ & cutt+ ( g>m5ts into v>i\s devices 0 =bidd52 b ! p 7 v fond ( display1 & p]fect disreg>d 0 %[n by all classes ( ! community to any ( ^! laws4 ,a notable decoration t appe>$ 9 ?is reign 0 ! coll> ( ,,ss4 ,v>i\s acc\nts ( its orig9 h be5 giv51 b ! mo/ probable "o is t ,s is ! initial lett] ( ,h5ry's motto1 8,s\v]a9e10 :i* he _h borne :ile ,e>l ( ,d]by4 ,! h\ppel&e ( ,ri*>d's reign1 ) its high coll>1 huge sleeves1 & full skirt1 0 /ill worn1 & is always depict$ sc>let 9 ,,mss4 ,! 8bag sleeves0 came into fa%ion dur+ ?is reign4 ,!y 7 ( great size & fulness1 b ga!r$ at ! wri/ & at ! %\ld]s4 ,9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,v4 little *ange 0 made 9 co/ume1 = ! m9ds ( m5 7 occupi$ ) m s]i\s matt]s 9 ! w> ) ,france4 ,long & %ort g[ns ) l>ge sleeves1 ei!r sweep+ & ind5t$ at ! edge or ( ! 8bag sleeve0 v>iety1 7 ! common upp] g>m5ts ( all classes4 ,9 "s in/ances small bells 7 worn1 fa/5$ to a baldric or belt pass+ diagonally l a sa% across ! body f ! %\ld] to ! wai/4 ,be>ds 7 n worn mu* dur+ ?is reign1 & m\/a*es 7 only p>tially worn1 = ! fa%ion 0 to be clean %av51 & ! hair 0 cut close above ! e>s4 ,at ! comm5cem5t ( ,h5ry ,v4's reign ! col\r ( ! surcoat 0 aga9 *ang$ to :ite4 ,h5ry ,,vi4 0 inv>iably pla9 9 8 dress1 & we are told t he refus$ to we> ! long-po9t$ %oes worn by ! g5try4 ,x is an int]e/+ reflection on ! unsettl$ condition ( ! c\ntry 9 ! un=tunate reign ( ?is ,k+ t ! co/umes 7 num]\s & div]se1 be+ 8a curi\s mixture ( ! co/umes ( prec$+ reigns40 ,! mo/ rem>kable feature ( ! fifte5? c5tury 0 ! m common use ( caps & hats ( fanta/ic %apes & ! *ange ( =m ( ! capu*on or hood into a regul>ly =m$ cr[n1 ) a ?ick roll1 hav+ a long tippet atta*$ to x & trail+ on ! gr\nd or tuck$ into ! girdle4 7,fig4 #b;a47 ,a s+le fea!r is sometimes worn 9 ! cap4 7,fig4 #e47 ,long1 tight hose & %ort boots or busk9s1 & %oes ) high fronts & backs t turn$ ov] ea* way1 7 worn1 all ) long toes4 ,! g[n or jacket beg9s to be cut ev5 ar\nd ! %\ld]s1 in/ead ( be+ made high up ! neck4 ,! face 0 /ill closely %av54 ,! /ate mantles ( ! ,k+ & nobles 7 made ( velvet & l9$ ) :ite damask or sat94 ,legal & o!r (ficial habits consi/$ ( long1 full g[ns1 girdl$ r\nd ! wai/ & trimm$ & l9$ ) fur1 accord+ to ! rank ( ! we>]4 ,dur+ ! reigns ( ,edw>d ,,iv41 ,edw>d ,v41 & ,ri*>d ,,iii41 a v *>act]i/ic /yle ( co/ume beg9s to come into vogue4 ,! /ore f :i* we draw our k--! brasses1 effigies1 & illum9at$ ,,mss4--is a v ext5sive "o1 & ow+ to ! inv5tion ( pr9t+ & ! use ( ! wood block = illu/ration1 we h /ill ano!r s\rce ( in=mation4 ,a v important feature ( ! co/umes ( ?is "t 0 ! excell5t fit ( ! g>m5ts4 ,z ,mrs4 ,a%d[n says1 9 h] ,briti% ,co/ume1 8,broadly speak+1 x _h be5 p]fectly possible = a dressmak] to cut out & complete any g>m5t worn by m5 up to t p]iod2 aft] ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv4 ! era ( ! tailor began40 ,9 ,edw>d's reign ! jackets & d\blets 7 cut %ort] ?an ev]1 ! sleeves slit s z to %[ ! l>ge1 loose :ite %irts1 & ! %\ld]s 7 padd$ ) moss or flock4 ,m5 wore ! hair long1 & _h hats ( clo? a qu>t] ( an ell or m 9 height1 & all wore mo/ sumptu\s *a9s ( gold4 ,%oes ) long1 po9t$ toes1 "s z mu* z two feet long1 call$ p\la9es1 7 also worn4 ,sumptu>y laws 7 aga9 enact$ 9 ?is reign aga9/ p :o dress$ beyond _! social position1 & bo? ! we>]s & ! tailors & %oemak]s 7 subject to f9es = transgress+ !m4 ,9 ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,iii41 g5tlem5 began to we> ! long g[ns & m sob] co/umes t di/+ui%$ ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vii4 ,! co/umes ( ! nobility g5]ally consi/$ ( hose or long /ock+s ti$ by po9ts or laces to ! d\blet1 :i* 0 op5 9 front1 ab\t half-way d[n ! brea/1 %[+ a /oma*] or ve/1 ov] :i* x 0 lac$ l a peasant's bodice4 ,ov] ! d\blet 0 worn a long or a %ort g[n1 accord+ to fancy & circum/ances1 ! =m] hang+ loose1 ! latt] full ( pleats be=e & beh9d1 pla9 at ! sides & girdl$ tightly ab\t ! wai/4 ,small caps or 8bonets0 ( v>i\s %apes 7 worn4 ,boots rea*+ to ! middle ( ! ?igh are frequ5tly se5 9 ! illum9ations ( ! p]iod4 ,! hair 0 worn v bu%y beh9d & at ! sides4 7,fig4 #i47 ,v ri* mat]ials 7 us$ = ! g>m5ts ( nobles & o!rs4 ,! co/umes ( ! l[] classes dur+ ?is p]iod foll[$ ! m sob] co/umes ( ?is & prec$+ p]iods1 ! mat]ials be+ co>se & ! cut simple4 ,! co/umes ( ! reta9]s ( ! nobility imitat$ ^? ( _! ma/]s1 & 7 v (t5 made ( ri* mat]ials & 9 ! extreme fa%ion4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #cg4 7,fig4 #a7 ,! ,cr[n ( ,h5ry ,,iv41 f 8 effigy 9 ,cant]bury ,ca!dral1 #adbb4 ,x is ( beautiful proportion & workman%ip4 7,fig4 #b73 ,brass ( ,ralph ,segrym1 ,m4,p41 ,mayor1 #addi1 ,/4 ,john's ,*ur*1 ,madd]m>ket1 ,norwi*4 ,?is is a good example ( civilian co/ume ( ! "t1 ! baggy sleeves be+ v typical4 ,! cloak is fur-l9$1 & has a fur coll>1 fa/5+ ) ?ree buttons on ! "r %\ld]4 7,fig4 #b;a73 ,head-dress ( ! p]iod1 compos$ ( a ?ick roll ( /uff encircl+ ! head l a turban1 hav+ a quantity ( clo? atta*$ to its inn] edge :i* cov]s "o side1 :ile on ! o!r side a broad b& or becca ( ! same mat]ial hangs d[n to ! gr\nd4 7,h>l4 ,,ms41 #b1bgh47 7,fig4 #c73 ,male co/ume ( ,h5ry ,,iv4's reign4 7,h>l4 ,,ms41 #b1ccb47 ,! sleeves ( ! g[n are v wide1 & are ga!r$ tight ar\nd ! wri/4 ,! g[n or tunic rea*es only to ! knee1 :]e x is scallop$ 9 ! =m ( leaves4 ,tight hose & boots rea*+ above ! ankle complete ! co/ume4 ,! hair is p>t$ 9 ! front & is curl$ at ! sides4 7,fig4 #d73 ,an ,exquisite ( ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv41 we>+ a *>act]i/ic peak$ cap ( ! "t1 call$ a bycocket1 ) a black cr[n & a :ite brim4 ,8 %ort1 gre5 jacket has wide sleeves edg$ ) erm9e1 & 8 *ausses are r$4 7,fig4 #e73 ,a hat ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,vi41 f ,g\gh's ,sepul*ral ,monum5ts4 7,fig4 #e;a73 ,head ( ,duke ( ,b$=d1 f a portrait ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,vi41 %[+ ! peculi> way 9 :i* ! hair 0 worn 9 ?is & ! prec$+ reign4 7,fig4 #f73 ,figure ( ,ri*>d1 ,duke ( ,gl\ce/]1 aft]w>d ,ri*>d ,,iii4 7,f ! ,royal ,,ms41 #ae ,e4 #d47 ,he is attir$ 9 ! mo/ fa%ionable dress ( ! day4 ,8 r$ hat has a gold b& & jewell$ buttons to secure ! fea!rs4 ,8 crimson jacket is furr$ ) deep r$1 is v %ort1 & is ga!r$ 9 close folds beh9d1 ! sleeves be+ extremely long4 ,he we>s ! ,g>t] ar\nd 8 left leg2 8 hose are blue1 & he has ! fa%ionable long-po9t$ %oe & ! clog or patt5 ov] x4 7,fig4 #g73 ,ano!r =m ( ! bycocket hat4 7,fig4 #h73 ,hat ( black clo? ) ! long p5dant twi/$ ar\nd ! neck4 7,h>l4 ,,ms41 #d1cgi47 7,fig4 #i73 ,co/ume ( ! "t ( ,edw>d ,,iv4 7,royal ,,ms41 #ae ,e4 ii47 ,,female ,,co/umes4 ,little *ange 0 made 9 ! co/umes ( ladies dur+ ^! p]iods1 b !re 0 a m wond]ful v>iety 9 ! head-dresses--_m ( !m /rik+ & ev5 picturesque--?an dur+ any o!r c5tury ( ,engli% hi/ory4 ,9 ! e>ly "p ( ?is p]iod ! cresp9e or gold5 net caul1 into :i* ! hair 0 ga!r$ 7,fig4 #ab71 p>tly cov]$ by a veil1 0 v common4 ,! cte-h>di 0 /ill v popul>1 b _m ladies wore ! full out] g>m5t or mantle1 call$ ! h\ppel&e1 button$ high up to ! neck1 ) wide sleeves1 & rea*+ d[n to ! feet4 7,fig4 #d47 ,long-tra9$ g[ns 7 also worn1 ) /oma*]s1 trimm$ ) fur & velvet1 & ^! displac$ ! sup]-tunic4 ,fur 0 v ext5sively us$ by all classes1 to ! great disgu/ & contempt ( "s contempor>y writ]s4 ,sumptu>y laws pass$ 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,iv4 prohibit$ 8! we>+ ( furs ( erm9e1 lettice1 pure m9iv]s1 or grey10 by ! wives ( esquires1 unless !y 7 noble !mselves or _! husb&s held ! (fice ( ,mayor ( c]ta9 t[ns4 ,9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vi4 ! previ\s fa%ions 7 cont9u$1 ) num]\s fanta/ic additions4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ! reign1 %ort-wai/$ g[ns 7 worn1 gird$ tightly at ! wai/1 ) enorm\s tra9s & ) turn-ov] coll>s ( fur or velvet com+ to a po9t 9 front4 ,sleeves 7 worn ( all descriptions4 ,! diff]5t v>ieties ( head-dresses 7 kn[n z 7#a7 ! turban1 7#b7 ! horn$ head-dress1 7#c7 ! he>t-%ap$ head-dress1 & 7#d7 ! =k$ head-dress4 ,! ,turban ,head-dress 7,fig4 #g7 0 9 fa%ion = "s "t1 ev5 cont9u+ until ! next c5tury1 & 0 probably bas$ ^u ! ,turki% turban4 ,x consi/$ ( a light framework ( wire1 cov]$ ) silk or o!r ri* mat]ial4 ,! ,horn$ ,head-dress 7,fig4 #f7 0 probably ! mo/ grotesque =m ( head-dress worn 9 ?is reign4 ,! cauls at ! side ( ! head 7 made v l>ge1 & horns1 f :i* dep5d$ ! veil1 ext5d$ horizontally on ei!r side ( ! head4 ,?is came 9 = v sev]e condemnation & satire by ! writ]s ( ! "t1 be+ comp>$ to ! horns ( ! snail1 ( ! unicorn1 ( ! h>t1 & ev5 ( ! devil himself4 ,! horns 7 worn s l>ge t 9 "s places 8x 0 judg$ necess>y to enl>ge ! doors ( ! ap>tm5ts10 & :5 ent]+ a room ! we>]s _h 8to turn aside & /oop40 ,! ,he>t-%ap$ ,head-dress 7,fig4 #i7 0 =m$ by ! cauls be+ made high]1 s t ! pad re/+ on !m 0 pu%$ upw>d at ! sides1 & ! head-dress assum$ ! %ape ( a he>t4 ,! ,=k$ ,head-dress 7,fig4 #aj7 0 a v>iation ( ! horn$ head-dress1 9 :i* ! horns 7 plac$ v]tically in/ead ( horizontally4 ,! co/umes ( ! reigns ( ! ,yorki/ ,k+s are v amply illu/rat$ f ! num]\s effigies1 brasses1 & ,,mss41 & f ! newly inv5t$ wood blocks us$ 9 ! new art ( pr9t+4 ,! ladies' co/umes ( ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv4 7 modifications ( ^? worn 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vi41 b !y 7 v spl5did & mo/ extravagant4 ,! fa%ion ( we>+ tails to ! g[ns fell into disuse1 & 9 _! room bord]s ( velvet or fur 7 sub/itut$4 ,! g[ns 7 exce$+ly %ort-wai/$1 & ! dress 0 cut v l[ at ! neck4 ,! ,/eeple ,head-dress 7,fig4 #aa71 nicknam$ 8! *imney pot10 came into use dur+ ?is reign4 ,x 0 conical or pyramidal 9 =m1 & 0 g5]ally ab\t ?ree-qu>t]s ( an ell 9 height4 ,x 0 plac$ on ! head at an angle ( ab\t #de degrees f ! v]tical1 & 9 ord] to less5 ! t5sion on ! head1 a k9d ( framework ( wire nett+ 0 worn "u x4 ,to ! apex 0 affix$ a veil1 (t5 ( f9e texture1 sometimes rea*+ to ! gr\nd4 ,ano!r peculi> =m ( head-dress 0 kn[n z ! ,butt]fly ,head-dress 7,fig4 #h71 introduc$ ab\t #adgj ,a4,d4 ,x appe>s to h be5 a modification ( ! /eeple head-dress1 ! cone be+ truncat$1 ) wires arrang$ ab\t x1 to :i* w+s ( gauze veil+ 7 affix$4 ,) ?is head-dress ! hair 0 worn tightly drawn back f ! =ehead4 ,! ladies ( ! middle class did n adopt ^! extravagant fa%ions4 ,!y wore caps ( clo? 8) two w+s at ! side l apes' e>s40 ,by ! sumptu>y laws1 wives ( p]sons ^: income 0 less ?an #dj a ye> 7 =bidd5 to we> girdles ornam5t$ ) gold & silv] "w1 or any 8corse ( silk0 made out ( ! realm1 or any cov]*ief exce$+ a c]ta9 price1 or ! furs ( c]ta9 animals4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ch4 7,fig4 #a73 ,joice1 ,lady ,tipt(t1 f ! brass 9 ,enfield ,*ur*1 ,middlesex1 #addf ,a4,d4 ,%e is %[n we>+ a horn$ head-dress ( v mod]ate proportions & v elaborately made4 ,%e we>s a cte-h>di & g[n trimm$ ri*ly ) erm9e4 ,! brass1 :i* is "o ( ! f9e/ ( ! k9d 9 ,engl&1 %[s ! armorial be>+s ^u ! cloak also4 7,fig4 #b73 ,head-dress ( a lady 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vi41 ) a veil or k]*ief atta*$ to x4 7,h>l4 ,,ms41 #f1dca47 7,fig4 #c73 ,head-dress ( a lady 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,v41 f ! effigy ( ,ca!r9e1 ,c\ntess ( ,suffolk1 %[+ ! gold5 caul at ! sides ( ! head4 7,fig4 #d73 ,female co/ume ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ,v41 %[+ ! horn$ head-dress cov]$ ) a k]*ief1 ! %ort wai/1 & ! g[n ) v wide trail+ sleeves & high coll> call$ ! h\ppel&e4 7,fig4 #e73 ,brass ( ,m>g>et1 wife ( ,william ,*eyne1 #adai ,a4,d41 at ,hev]1 9 ,k5t1 %[+ ! horn$ head-dress1 ! close-fitt+ dress1 & ! mantle fa/5$ across ! bosom4 7,fig4 #f73 ,horn$ head-dress ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 f ! effigy ( ,beatrice1 ,c\ntess ( ,arundel1 9 ! *ur* at ,arundel4 ,?is is consid]$ to be ! f9e/ illu/ration ( ! horn$ head-dress 9 exi/5ce4 7,fig4 #g73 ,a turban head-dress4 7,h>l4 ,,ms41 #b1bgh47 7,fig4 #h73 ,butt]fly head-dress1 f ! brass ( ,lady ,say1 9 ,broxb\rne ,*ur*1 ,h]ts1 #adgc ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #i73 ,he>t-%ap$ head-dress4 7,froiss>t's ,*ronicles1 ,h>l4 ,,ms41 #d1cgi47 7,fig4 #aj73 ,a =k$ head-dress ) small hang+ veil4 7,h>l4 ,,ms41 #b1bgh47 7,fig4 #aa73 ,female co/ume ( ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv41 %[+ ! /eeple head-dress1 ) k]*ief fa/5$ to ! apex4 ,! g[n is v full1 & bo? x & ! tra9 are edg$ ) erm9e4 ,! turn-ov] coll> is also %[n1 & ! squ>e-%ap$ "u g>m5t ) lac+4 7,h>l4 ,,ms41 #d1cgi47 7,fig4 #ab73 ,head ( a lady1 f a brass at ,sawtrey1 ,hants1 #adjd ,a4,d41 %[+ ! cresp9e or gold5 net caul worn by ladies ( ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies1 ) a small veil hang+ d[n by ! side ( ! face4 ,,plate ,,arm\r4 ,! v>i\s modifications 9 plate arm\r 7 su* z 7 f\nd necess>y = great] ease or = m p]fect protection1 & 7 ( a progressive "*4 ,9 ord] to prev5t confusion x is cu/om>y to divide ?is p]iod ( #bjj ye>s into five less] p]iods1 ! fir/ ?ree be+ r\ghly co9cid5t ) ! ,lanca/rian & ,yorki/ ,p]iods1 ! rema9+ two ) ! ,tudor ,p]iod4 #a/ ,p]iod3 #adaj--adcj4 #bnd ,p]iod3 #adcj--adej4 #crd ,p]iod3 #adej--aejj4 #a/ ,p]iod3 #adaj--adej4 ,?is is also kn[n z ! surcoatless p]iod1 z ! poli%$ brea/ & back plates 7 worn )\t any textile cov]+4 ,be=e ! ,hundr$ ,ye>s' ,w> _h brok51 out aga9 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,v4--j be=e ,ag9c\rt--! types ( arm\r _h completely *ang$4 ,knights gave up ! use ( ! camail & jupon1 & 7 clo!d 9 complete arm\r4 ,additional protections 7 plac$ 9 front ( ! armpits1 z r\ndles or pallettes1 resembl+ small %ields1 & fan-%ap$ plates 7 plac$ at ! elb[ jo9ts4 ,! bas9et 0 made mu* m globul> 9 =m1 & a piece ( plate call$ ! gorget or neck-piece took ! place ( ! camail to connect ! bas9et ) ! body arm\r4 ,! l[] "p ( ! bas9et1 protect+ ! *91 0 call$ ! beav] 78,i saw "y ,h>ry ) 8 beav] on40 ,h4 ,,iv41 ,pt4 #a71 & 0 fa/5$ by rivets to ! upp] "p ne> ! temples4 ,! bas9et n[ re/$ on ! gorget1 & 0 s arrang$ t ! head c\ld be turn$ to "r & left4 ,! brea/plate 0 ( globul> =m1 & !re 0 a correspond+ plate ov] ! back4 ,f ! wai/ to ! middle ( ! ?igh1 a s]ies ( n>r[1 flexible1 horizontal ov]lapp+ b&s or plates ( /eel1 call$ taces or tassets1 fa/5$ to a l9+ ( lea!r1 7 worn4 ,!y ?us =m$ a k9d ( arm\r$ kilt or %ort /eel petticoat4 ,! sword-belt 0 n>r[1 & 0 worn diagonally ov] ! taces1 & ! g5]al =m ( ! sword rema9$ unalt]$4 ,! mis]icorde cont9u$ to be worn on ! "r side4 ,! haub]k 0 sometimes worn "u ! plate arm\r1 = ! l[] edge is sometimes %[n 9 effigies & brasses4 ,all ! details ( ! above description are %[n 9 ,fig4 #a4 #bnd ,p]iod3 #adcj-adej4 ,?is is sometimes call$ ! ,tab>d ,p]iod1 z a new v>iety ( %ort surcoat call$ a tab>d 0 worn ) %ort sleeves ov] ! arm\r1 be>+ ! h]aldic devices ( ! we>]1 emblazon$ d[n ! front & also on ea* sleeve4 ,! *ief *>act]i/ic ( ! p]iod ) reg>d to ! actual arm\r 0 ! sy/em ( add+ /r5g!n+ or re9=c+ pieces ( plate to ! arm\r4 ,ov] ! flanks on ea* side1 dep5d+ f ! taces1 a small plate1 v>y+ 9 %ape1 call$ a tuille1 0 app5d$4 ,x 0 fa/5$ by /r+s & all[$ free movem5t ( ! limbs4 ,! soll]ets or feet cov]+s became long]1 & plates l ^? on ! %ell ( a lob/] 7 add$ to ! gauntlets to cov] & protect ! backs ( ! h&s4 ,additional plates v>y+ 9 size & =m1 7 fix$ to ! elb[s & %\ld]s on ! ord9>y arm\r4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t ! "r arm & %\ld] 7 acc\tr$ s z to int]f]e z little z possible ) ! action :5 fight+2 :ile ! left side & bridle arm 7 m fully protect$ ) additional def5sive arm\r4 ,l>ge re9=c+ plates call$ pauldrons ext5d$ ov] ! %\ld]s1 sometimes be+ made ) a k9d ( /&+ coll> to protect ! neck f a direct /roke4 ,"o ( ! f9e/ specim5s ( ! arm\r ( ?is p]iod is t on ! spl5did bronze effigy ( ,ri*>d ,beau*amp1 ,e>l ( ,w>wick4 7,figs4 #b & #c47 ,! brilliant arti/ & ar*ologi/1 ,*>les ,/o?>d1 :5 mak+ draw+s ( ! figure1 f\nd to 8 great delight t x 0 movable1 & t ! arm\r on ! back 0 repres5t$ & f9i%$ z p]fectly z on ! front4 #crd ,p]iod3 #adej-aejj4 ,dur+ ?is p]iod ! practice ( re9=c+ ! arm\r cont9u$1 & great modifications 7 made 9 ! exi/+ pieces4 ,! arm\r became m extravagant 9 =m1 dim5sions & adornm5t4 ,enorm\s fan-l elb[ pieces 7 worn1 & ! pauldrons or %\ld] pieces 7 v l>ge4 ,?is p]iod includes ! ,w>s ( ! ,roses1 & is1 !re=e1 ( consid]able int]e/4 ,x has be5 said t1 be=e ?is "t1 arms & arm\r 7 ,european r ?an ,engli%1 b 9 ?is p]iod1 = ! fir/ "t s9ce ! ,norman ,conque/1 ,engl& 0 cut (f f ! re/ ( ,europe1 & 0 free to develop along h] own l9es4 ,di/+ui%+ & p>ty badges1 coll>s & devices 7 freely worn1 & incorporat$ ) ! arms dur+ ?is p]iod4 ,! salade1 a light helmet1 0 pr9cipally worn 9 ! ,w>s ( ! ,roses4 ,! horses ( knights 9 ! t\rnam5t & on ! battlefield 7 sometimes z heavily arm$ z ! rid]s4 ,! horse's head 0 protect$ by a *anfre91 or face-piece1 & movable plates ( /eel1 =m+ ! cr9et1 cov]$ ! mane1 :ile burni%$ %ields or plates ( metal 7 fix$ on ! brea/4 ,! weight ( arm\r 0 s great t1 :5 a knight 0 unhors$1 he 0 utt]ly helpless1 & at ! m]cy ( 8 oppon5t1 z x 0 impossible = him to rise )\t assi/ance1 & ! victor _h only ! tr\ble ( coolly select+ ! be/ *9k 9 ! junctures 9 ! arm\r 9 :i* to ins]t 8 sword or 8 dagg]4 ,z ,james ,i4 aft]w>ds said ( arm\r1 ow+ to its g5]al cumb]som5ess1 8,x 0 an admirable def5ce1 z x h9d]$ a man f be+ hurt himself or ( hurt+ o!rs40 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ci4 7,fig4 #a73 ,brass ( ,sir ,john ,lysle1 ,?ruxton ,*ur*1 ,hamp%ire1 #adjg ,a4,d4 ,?is is ! e>lie/ example ( complete plate arm\r 9 exi/5ce 9 ,engl&1 b ! brass 0 probably made t5 ye>s aft] t date4 7#a7 ,gorget2 7#b7 ,beav]2 7#c7 ,r\ndles2 7#d7 ,taces 7#h 9 numb]72 7#e7 ,fan%ap$ c\dires4 7,fig4 #b73 ,front view ( bronze effigy ( ,ri*>d ,beau*amp1 ,k4 ,g41 ,e>l ( ,w>wick1 f 8 tomb 9 ! ,beau*amp ,*apel1 ,w>wick4 ,! ,e>l di$ #adci ,a4,d41 & ! effigy 0 execut$ 9 #adec4 ,! foll[+ po9ts w be not$3 7#a7 ,! head is b>e1 & re/s on a cre/$ helm2 7#b7 ! brea/plate %\ld]-gu>ds are re9=c$1 ! pauldrons hav+ l[1 upright neck def5ces2 7#c7 ! c\dires1 or elb[ pieces1 are l>ge1 & ( ! same size on bo? arms2 7#d7 !re are five taces1 %[+ a skirt ( mail b5ea? !m1 & !re are two l>ge tuilles4 7,fig4 #c73 ,back view ( ! same4 7,fig4 #d73 ,a skull cap ( /eel1 call$ a casquetel1 ) l>ge e>-pieces1 ( ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv4 7,fig4 #e73 ,bas9et ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ,v4 7,fig4 #f73 ,bas9et f ! ,regi/] ,book ( ,/4 ,albans1 ,a4,d4 #adag4 ,x rises to a po9t1 ^u :i* is plac$ a holl[ tube to receive ! pana*e1 or cre/ ( fea!rs1 & has a movable visor4 7,fig4 #g73 ,salade ) movable visor4 7,fig4 #h73 ,r\nd salade ) a jewell$ plume4 7,f ,r\se's ,life ( ! ,e>l ( ,w>wick47 7,fig4 #i73 ,effigy ( ,sir ,?omas ,peyton1 9 ,isleham ,*ur*1 ,cambridge%ire1 ( ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,iii4 ,! grotesque =m ( ! enorm\s fan-l elb[-pieces & ! l>ge pauldrons re9=c+ ! %\ld] arm\r are p>ticul>ly noticeable4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,figure ( ,sir ,rob]t ,w+field 9 complete arm\r1 f a pa9t$ w9d[ 9 ,ea/ ,h]l+ ,*ur*1 ,norfolk1 execut$ betwe5 #adfa & #adhj4 ,he we>s a tab>d1 ) 8 8arms0 blazon$ on ! front & on ea* sleeve4 ,,decorat$ ,,ar*itecture4 ,a4,d4 #acjj to #acgg4 ,reigns ( ,edw>d ,i41 ,,ii41 & ,,iii4 ,! transition f ! ,e>ly ,engli%1 or ,lancet /yle1 to ! ,decorat$ 0 mu* m gradual ?an f ,norman to ,e>ly ,engli%1 s gradual t x is impossible to draw a l9e :]e "o /yle ceases & ano!r beg9s4 ,!re c be no d\bt t 9 "s p>ts ( ! k+dom1 ,e>ly ,engli% 0 9 use at ! same "t t1 9 o!r di/ricts1 ! ,decorat$ /yle 0 becom+ g5]al1 & ?us ! t]ms adopt$ to d5ote ! diff]5t p]iods mu/ n be tak5 z def9ite or z comm5c+ or clos+ at any p>ticul> date1 b m]ely z indicat+ ! broad classification ( ! /yles & details1 & = associat+ !m ) p>ticul> reigns = conv5i5ce ( /udy4 ,! divisions are arbitr>y1 b v conv5i5t 9 practice4 ,/ructurally1 !re 0 n a great *ange 9 ! build+s1 b !re 0 a m h>moni\s relation & developm5t ( all ! ar*itectural features 9 walls1 pi]s1 buttresses1 w9d[s1 etc41 bo? ) reg>d to _! size & _! enri*m5t1 & x 0 because ( ?is g5]al use ( ornam5t or enri*m5t t x is call$ ! ,decorat$ ,p]iod4 8,x rivals ! prec$+ /yle 9 *a/5ess & elegance1 :ile x surpasses x 9 ri*ness40 ,great progress 0 made 9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,i41 & ! ,decorat$ "w exhibits ! mo/ complete & p]fect developm5t ( ! ,go?ic ar*1 :i* 9 ! ,e>ly ,engli% 0 n fully matur$1 & 9 ! ,p]p5dicul> began to decl9e4 ,x is rem>kable = its geometric trac]y1 its natural types ( foliage1 & ! undulat+ "* ( l9e & =m 9 its ornam5tal details4 ,w9d[s4--,! mo/ di/9ctive features ( ! ,decorat$ /yle are its l>ge w9d[s & its m\ld+s4 ,! w9d[s are ! *ief glory ( ! #ad? c5tury ,go?ic4 ,!y v>y v consid]ably 9 size1 9 =m & 9 intricacy4 ,z ! w9d[ ar*es became broad]1 mullions or v]tical b>s ( masonry 7 requir$ = _! support1 divid+ ! w9d[s into lights1 & ! upp] portions ( ^! mullions 7 develop$ into trac]y1 =m+ circles1 trefoils1 or o!r geometric figures1 &1 aft]w>ds1 fl[+ l9es4 ,x has be5 %[n h[ ! gr\p+ ( lancet-%ap$ w9d[s & ! pi]c+ ( ! space above !m1 "u ! ar*$ drip/one1 _h produc$ 8plate trac]y40 ,z ! pi]c+s became l>g]1 n>r[ & irregul>ly %ap$ surfaces ( /one 7 left4 ,^! 7 pi]c$1 & ! int]v5+ pi]s ( /one came to be %ap$ l ! mullions2 9 fact1 became a cont9uation ( ! mullions4 ,?is developm5t1 :i* 0 rea*$ be=e ! middle ( ! #ac? c5tury1 is call$ 8b> trac]y40 ,at fir/1 ?is b> trac]y 0 pla92 !n 8cusps0 7,pl4 #dj1 ,fig4 #e71 or project+ po9ts1 7 introduc$ on ! inn] edge ( ! mullions1 & add$ greatly to ! ri* effects4 ,! e>lie/ ,decorat$ w9d[s h trac]y on a purely geometric basis4 ,exet] ,ca!dral is consid]$ ! be/ typical example ( ! e>ly "p ( ?is /yle1 & ! exi/+ w9d[s 7 con/ruct$ at ! end ( ! #ac? c5tury4 ,! ,*apt]-h\ses at ,york & ,s\?well are o!r ri* examples4 ,w9d[s ) fl[+ trac]y are1 9 g5]al1 lat] ?an ^? ) geometrical patt]ns1 ?\gh !y are sometimes contemporane\s 9 ! same build+4 ,no rule is foll[$ 9 ! =m ( ! ar* ov] w9d[s 9 ?is /yle4 ,"s are v obtuse1 o!rs v acute1 & ! ogee1 or d\ble-curv$ ar*1 is n uncommon4 ,squ>e-head$ w9d[s are v common 9 ?is /yle1 9 _m p>ts ( ! c\ntry1 especially 9 ,leice/]%ire & ,ox=d%ire4 ,?is =m ( w9d[ 0 s v conv5i5t t its use 0 nev] discont9u$1 ?\gh x 0 m commonly us$ 9 h\ses & ca/les ?an 9 *ur*es1 & w9d[s ) a flat curv$ top are frequ5tly us$4 ,circul> or 8,rose0 w9d[s 9 *ur*es & ca!drals are also a f9e feature ( ?is /yle4 ,notable among ^! are ! w9d[s at ! end ( ! s\? transept 9 ,l9coln & ,we/m9/]4 ,pill>s4--,9 ord9>y p>i% *ur*es ! pill>s are frequ5tly z pla9 z 9 ! ,e>ly ,engli% ,p]iod1 & are g5]ally octagonal 9 cross sections1 b 9 ri*] *ur*es !y are clu/]$1 & no long] h deta*$ %afts4 ,! bases ( ! columns are (t5 loz5ge-%ap$1 or a squ>e set diagonally1 to all[ ! light to p5etrate bett] into ! body ( ! build+4 ,! capitals are frequ5tly octagonal or bell-%ap$1 & sometimes !y are m]ely m\ld$ or decorat$ ) ! 8ball fl[]0 7,pl4 #di1 ,fig4 #i7 & ! 8f\r-leav$ fl[]0 7,pl4 #di1 ,fig4 #aj74 ,9 ! prec$+ /yle a conv5tional =m ( foliage 0 employ$ to decorate ! capitals4 ,b 9 ! ri*] examples ( ?is /yle !y are decorat$ ) beautiful foliage1 m fai?fully copi$ f ,nature2 ! v9e leaf1 ! maple leaf1 ! oak leaf ) acorns1 ! rose1 & ! ivy be+ mo/ commonly imitat$4 ,! foliage is twi/$ horizontally r\nd ! bell-%ap$ head1 & does n %oot up v]tically f /iff or upright /ems1 z 9 ! ,e>ly ,engli%4 ,! bases are usually m\ld$ only1 consi/+ ( two or ?ree r\nds or roll-m\lds1 & /& ^u a pl9?1 ! height ( :i* v>ies v mu*4 ,m\ld+s4--,! m\ld+s ( ?is /yle diff] f ^? ( ! ,e>ly ,engli% ma9ly 9 n hav+ ! r\nds & holl[s s deeply cut--a *>act]i/ic feature be+ ! introduction ( fillets or small flat b&s4 ,! deepe/ holl[s1 too1 are f\nd1 n betwe5 ea* memb]1 b betwe5 gr\ps ( memb]s4 ,!y are always v effective1 & are s arrang$ z to produce a pleas+ contra/ ( light & %ade1 :i* is s(t] & m bl5d$ ?an 9 ! ,e>ly ,engli% m\ld+s4 7,pl4 #da1 ,fig4 #aj47 ,a m\ld+ peculi> to ?is /yle is ! 8roll m\ld+0 7,pl4 #da1 ,fig4 #g71 9 :i* ! upp] half projects ov] ! l[]4 ,! holl[s are frequ5tly enri*$ ) runn+ foliage or ) fl[]s at int]vals1 p>ticul>ly ! 8ball-fl[]0 & ! 8f\r-leav$ fl[]10 :i* are typical ornam5ts ( ?is p]iod4 ,! surface ( ! int]ior walls is (t5 cov]$ ) flat foliage1 arrang$ 9 small squ>es1 call$ diap] "w4 7,pl4 #i1 ,fig4 #aa47 ,?is k9d ( ornam5t is f\nd 9 ! ,e>ly ,engli% *oir at ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 b belongs m commonly to ! decorat$ /yle4 ,crockets & ,f9ials 7,pl4 #da1 ,fig4 #h7 introduc$ into ! ,e>ly ,engli% /yle1 7 n[ us$ ) great] pr(usion1 & 7 treat$ ) great ri*ness4 ,! ,doorways are frequ5tly l>ge & ri*ly sculptur$1 b 9 small *ur*es !y are frequ5tly pla94 ,9 l>ge doorways ! ar* is g5]ally po9t$2 9 small] ones x is g5]ally an ,ogee 7,pl4 #da1 ,fig4 #i71 an ar* =m$ ( a d\ble curve1 convex & concave1 :i* came into g5]al use 9 ?is c\ntry 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,! m\ld+s are commonly v ri*4 ,! ,ar*es d n diff] mat]ially 9 g5]al effect f ! ,e>ly ,engli% ones2 !y are n s acute1 b are di/+ui%$ by ! m\ld+s & caps z describ$ above4 ,9 "s cases ! m\ld+s are cont9u$ d[n ! pi] )\t ! int]v5tion ( a capital1 =m+ a completely m\ld$ op5+4 ,arcades or s]ies ( ar*es1 7 us$ 9 ri*ly decorat$ build+s to ornam5t ! walls4 ,! s$ilia or seats on ! s\? side ( ! *oir1 ne> ! alt>1 = ! (ficiat+ cl]gy1 7 usually decorat$ 9 ?is =m4 7,pl4 #da1 ,fig4 #f47 ,gro9$ ro(s or vaults ( ?is /yle are di/+ui%$ f ^? ( ! prec$+ /yle1 *iefly by ! introduction ( num]\s extra or int]m$iate ribs & gro9s & by ! natural foliage ri*ly c>v$ on ! base4 ,/one gro9+ is imitat$ 9 cases :]e x w\ld n be safe to place ! weight ( a /one ro( on ! walls4 ,timb] ro(s ( ?is p]iod are comp>atively r>e1 b ^? ( dome/ic halls appe> to h be5 m enri*$ ?an ^? ( *ur*es4 ,x %\ld be not$ t :at are call$ 8timb] ro(s0 are frequ5tly inn] ro(s or ceil+s1 built = ornam5t only1 ) a pla91 sub/antial ro( ov] !m1 z at ,sp>%olt1 ,b]ks4 7,pl4 #dj1 ,fig4 #f47 ,g>goyles1 or grotesque wat]sp\ts 9 ! %ape ( mon/]s1 are a noticeable feature1 & are = ! purpose ( ?r[+ ! ra9wat] cle> ( ! walls & buttresses4 ,! ,buttresses 9 ?is p]iod receiv$ great att5tion4 ,!y 7 proportion$ ) di/9ct reg>d to _! function4 ,!y are f\nd 9 a great v>iety ( =m & ( degrees ( ri*ness1 b !y are almo/ inv>iably work$ 9 /ages & are (t5 ornam5t$ ) ni*es ) crocket$ canopies orig9ally conta9+ images1 & !y (t5 t]m9ate 9 p9nacles4 7,pl4 #da1 ,fig4 #e47 ,! ,cle>-/ory & ! ,tri=ium4--,9 l>ge *ur*es & ca!drals ! upp] portion ( ! nave is light$ by a r[ ( w9d[s call$ ! ,cle>-/ory or ! ,cl]e-/ory4 ,bel[ ^!1 9 ! unlight$ space "u ! ro( ( ! aisle1 is a r[ ( unlight$ ar*es call$ ! ,tri=ium or ,bl9d-/ory4 ,! decoration ( ^! 01 ( c\rse1 simil> to t employ$ 9 ! o!r w9d[s & ar*es ( ?is p]iod4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #dj4 7,fig4 #a73 ,decorat$ w9d[ f ,meopham--an example ( e>ly geometrical trac]y ) cusps4 7,fig4 #b73 ,decorat$ w9d[ f ,/4 ,m>y's1 ,bev]ley1 %[+ ! mann] 9 :i* ! l9es ( ! mullions 7 c>ri$ up to fill ! head ( ! ar* ) fl[+ trac]y4 7,fig4 #c73 ,decorat$ ,pisc9a f ,fyfield1 ,b]ks41 c4 #acjj ,a4,d41 %[+ geometrical trac]y ) a crocket$ p$im5t1 p9nacles & a battlem5t4 7,a ,pisc9a 0 a wat] dra91 consi/+ ( a %all[ bas9 or s9k ) a hole 9 ! bottom to c>ry (f ! wat] ) :i* ! prie/ wa%$ 8 h&s4 ,x 0 plac$ ne> ! alt>1 & 0 v common 9 ! ?irte5? & succe$+ c5turies47 7,fig4 #d73 ,squ>e-head$ w9d[ f ,dor*e/]1 ,ox=d%ire1 c4 #accj ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #e73 ,detail %[+ a cusp4 7,fig4 #f73 ,decorat$ timb] 7inn]7 ro( at ,sp>%olt1 c4 #acej ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #g73 ,cle>-/ory w9d[ splay$ 7wid5$ on ! inside to ?r[ d[n ! light71 f ,b>ton1 ,nor?ants1 c4 #acbj ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #h73 ,b& ( decorat$ ornam5t f ! tri=ium ( ! nave ( ,/4 ,albans4 7,fig4 #i73 ,! ,ball-fl[]1 a *>act]i/ic ornam5t us$ on m\ld+s 9 ! ,decorat$ ,p]iod1 be+ a globul> fl[] half-op5$4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,! ,f\r-leav$ fl[]1 ano!r *>act]i/ic ornam5t ( ! ,decorat$ ,p]iod4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,diap] "w f ,l9coln ,ca!dral4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #da4 7,fig4 #a73 ,decorat$ ,capitals f ! ,*apt] ,h\se1 ,s\?well1 *>act]i/ic examples ( ! ri*ly c>v$ & clu/]$ caps ( ! p]iod4 7,fig4 #b73 ,decorat$ ,fly+ ,buttress f ! spire at ,cay?orpe1 c4 #acbj ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #c73 ,decorat$ ,capital ( ! ,transition ,p]iod 7betwe5 ,e>ly ,engli% & ,decorat$74 7,fig4 #d73 ,decorat$ ,corbel ,head or ,mask4 ,su* an ornam5t 0 plac$ at ! end ( a /one rib or drip/one4 7,fig4 #e73 ,decorat$ ,buttress1 ) a ni*e = an image1 f ,/4 ,m>y ,magdal5e1 ,ox=d1 c4 #acbj ,a4,d4 ,x is also ornam5t$ ) p9nacles & crockets4 7,fig4 #f73 ,s$ilia f ,*e/]ton1 ,ox=d%ire1 c4 #acbf ,a4,d41 decorat$ ) ! ,ball-fl[]4 7,fig4 #g73 ,roll m\ld+1 v *>act]i/ic ( ! ,decorat$ ,p]iod--a m\ld+ made up ( two portions ( circul> m\ld+s1 ! upp] "p l>g] ?an & project+ ov] ! l[]4 7,fig4 #h73 ,decorat$ f9ial ) crockets 7on ! side ( ! slope71 f ,l9coln ,ca!dral4 7,a f9ial is a bun* ( foliage :i* t]m9ates p9nacles1 canopies1 p$im5ts1 etc47 ,crockets are project+ leaves1 etc41 us$ 9 ,go?ic ar*itecture to decorate ! angles ( spires1 canopies1 p9nacles1 etc4 7,fig4 #i73 ,an ,ogee ar*1 ornam5t$ ) crockets1 f ,bev]ley ,m9/]1 c4 #acej ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,section ( decorat$ m\ld+s f ,bray1 ,b]ks1 c4 #acjj ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,pisc9a f ,wil=d ,*ur*1 ,notts4 ,?is illu/ration is giv5 to %[ h[ build]s1 9 r5ovat+ a *ur*1 alt]$ & adapt$ "w ( a prec$+ /yle4 ,:5 ! *ur* 0 enl>g$ 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury ?is pisc9a 0 plac$ ne> ! alt>4 ,! upp] "p 0 =m$ ( portions ( two small ,norman ar*es tak5 f two dismantl$ w9d[s4 ,^! 7 r\ghly trimm$ to =m a po9t$ ar* to be 9 keep+ ) ! 8po9t$0 /yle4 7,aft] ,h4,f47 ,,tudor ,,p]iod4 ,,male ,,co/umes4 ,h5ry ,,vii4 ,! male co/umes ( ,h5ry ,,vii4's reign 7 n brilliant1 & ,h5ry himself1 on acc\nt ( 8 mis]ly disposition1 0 v sob]ly dress$4 ,8 conduct 9 ?is respect naturally influ5c$ ! :ole nation1 ?\gh !re 7 exquisites at ?is "t1 z !re always w be1 :o dress$ 9 a v extreme fa%ion4 ,/rutt says t at ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury 8! dress ( ! ,engli% 0 exce$+ly fanta/ical & absurd1 insomu* t x 0 ev5 difficult to di/+ui% "o sex f ano!r02 b ?is ref]r$ m p>ticul>ly to ! dress ( ! nobility & g5try4 ,! cu/om ( 8sla%+0 came into fa%ion at ?is "t1 & 0 probably due to ! desire to %[ ! ri* l9+ or embroid]$ %irt und]nea?4 ,! hood fell into disuse1 & broad felt hats or caps & bonnets ( velvet & fur ) l>ge1 droop+ plumes became g5]al 8among ! great & gay40 ,a squ>e cap peculi> to ?is p]iod is /ill %[n on ! heads ( ! knaves on our play+ c>ds4 ,a long g[n1 :i* 0 ( v>y+ proportions1 girdl$ at ! wai/1 hav+ wide sleeves1 a l9+ ( d>k] clo?1 & op5 at ! upp] "p to display ! inn] ve/1 0 a common & a dignifi$ co/ume4 7,pl4 #db1 ,fig4 #a47 ,embroid]y 0 re/rict$ to ! "u g>m5ts1 ! %irts be+ (t5 decorat$ on ! coll>s & wri/s ) ne$lework4 ,! co/umes ( private g5tlem5 7 pla9 & unobtrusive 9 _! "*4 7,fig4 #b47 ,! po9t$ toes ( ! %oes gave place to v broad ones1 t]m$ sabbatons 7,figs4 #aj & #aa71 & ! hair 0 worn long & fl[+1 ?\gh ! face 0 /ill closely %av51 m\/a*es & be>ds be+ worn by soldi]s & old m5 only4 ,*ausses1 :i* _h be5 g5]ally worn up to ?is p]iod1 began to give place to ! sep>ate bree*es & hose4 ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,! co/ume ( ! g5try ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 consi/$ ( a full-skirt$ & girdl$ jacket or d\blet1 ) l>ge sleeves at ! wri/1 ov] :i* 0 worn a %ort1 full coat or cloak ) loose1 hang+ sleeves & a broad coll> or cape ( fur--a brimm$ cap1 jewell$ & bord]$ ) o/ri* fea!rs--/ock+s1 & squ>e-to$ %oes1 ) ruffles at ! wri/4 ,an embroid]$ /oma*] or ve/ 0 sometimes worn ov] ! %irt & "u ! d\blet4 ,! skirts ( ! latt] rea*$ sometimes to ! knees1 b 7 (t5 made %ort]4 ,on ! :ole1 !re 7 no great innovations ( male co/ume made dur+ ! actual reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 = ! same fa%ions appe> to h cont9u$ dur+ its :ole ext5t4 ,h5ry pass$ sumptu>y laws regulat+ ! use ( ! r>] furs1 velvets1 sat9s1 & damasks to c]ta9 classes ( society1 :ile ! work+ classes 7 conf9$ to ! use ( clo? ( a c]ta9 price & lamb's fur only1 & 7 =bidd5 to we> ornam5ts ( gold1 silv]1 or gilt "w4 ,/ock+s ( silk are g5]ally suppos$ to h be5 unkn[n 9 ,engl& be=e ! middle ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 & ,h5ry ,,viii4 nev] wore any hose b su* z 7 made ( clo?4 ,! upp] portion ( ! cov]+s = ! legs1 call$ trunk hose1 7 sla%$1 puff$1 & embroid]$1 & 7 fa/5$ by po9ts or laces to ! d\blet 7s call$ f be+ made ( d\ble /uff ) padd+ betwe574 ,!y 7 made ( velvets1 sat9s1 silks1 & gold5 & silv] /uffs4 ,! l>ge sleeves & capes ( ! v>i\s g>m5ts 7 fa/5$ to ! body ( ! dress by means ( po9ts or by buttons1 & 7 sep>ate articles ( app>el1 & (t5 ( diff]5t col\r f ! rema9+ portion ( ! g>m5t4 ,! wai/coat 0 fir/ m5tion$ 9 ?is reign1 & 0 worn "u ! d\blet4 ,sla%$ %oes 7 also worn4 ,h5ry ,,viii4 gave ord]s = all 8 att5dants & c\rti]s to we> ! hair %ort1 & t1 ( c\rse1 became ! fa%ion = m5 ?r\gh\t ! l&4 ,! pictures at ,hampton ,c\rt repres5t+ episodes connect$ ) ! ,field ( ! ,clo? ( ,gold h be5 call$ 8g5]al pictorial encyclopdias0 ( ! co/ume ( ?is reign4 ,! portrait ( ! ,e>l ( ,surrey at ,hampton ,c\rt is a good illu/ration ( ! co/ume ( ! nobility dur+ ,h5ry's reign4 ,he is repres5t$ 9 a %ort d\blet1 op5 at ! neck d[n to ! wai/1 display+ an embroid]$ %irt4 ,r\nd 8 wai/ is a girdle ) a dagg] 9 a ri*ly gilt case fa/5$ to x4 ,8 j]k9 is made v broad at ! %\ld] 7a *>act]i/ic ( ?is reign7 & wide at ! sleeves1 :i* are ga!r$1 puff$1 & sla%$4 ,he also we>s full trunk hose rea*+ to ! knees1 tight /ock+s1 & a small1 flat cap ) fea!rs4 ,8 hair is cut %ort 9 ! prevail+ fa%ion4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t bree*es 7 (t5 spok5 ( z 8sloppes10 & a c]ta9 class ( clo?i]'s %op is /ill kn[n colloquially z a 8slop-%op40 ,x 0 ! cu/om at ?is "t = p 9 ! l[] & middle classes to bequea? _! articles ( dress 9 _! wills4 ,! appr5tices ( ,london wore blue cloaks 9 summ]1 & 9 ! w9t] g[ns ( ! same col\r4 ,_! bree*es & /ock+s 7 usually made ( :ite broadclo?4 ,g5]ally speak+1 a p]son's /ation 9 life 0 well indicat$ by 8 dress4 ,edw>d ,,vi4 & ,m>y ,i4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,vi4 ! e>ne/ desire to settle religi\s que/ions introduc$ ?r\gh ! ,re=mation1 & ! p]secution & consequ5t national depression 9 ! reign ( ,m>y1 are responsible = ! fact t ! co/umes 7 n extreme 9 ^! reigns1 be+ pla9 & s]viceable1 & ! rank be+ g5]ally indicat$ m by ri*ness ( mat]ial ?an by extravagance ( /yle4 ,9 ?is reign 0 introduc$ ! small1 flat bonnet or cap1 worn on "o side ( ! head1 pres]v$ to ?is day 9 ! caps ( ! boys ( ,*ri/'s ,hospital 7:i* !y %\ld we> b d n74 ,blue coats 7 ! common habits ( appr5tices & s]v+ m51 & yell[ /ock+s 7 v g5]ally worn at ?is p]iod4 ,_! :ole dress is1 9 fact1 ! prevail+ co/ume ( ! grave citiz5s ( ,london at ! "t ( ! f\ndation ( ! s*ool 9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,vi4 ,! flat cap 0 kn[n z 8! city flat cap10 common to citiz5s1 & x 0 also kn[n z 8! /atute cap0 because ,elizabe? aft]w>ds ord]$ t ev]yone %\ld we> 8"o cap ( wool knit1 ?ick5$1 & dress$ 9 ,engl&10 or be f9$ #cs4 #d;d4 = ea* day's transgression4 ,! broad-to$ %oe 0 put out ( fa%ion by proclamation 9 ! reign ( ,m>y4 ,! portrait ( ,john ,heywood1 a citiz5 :o 0 held 9 high e/eem by ,m>y1 is a good example ( ! co/ume ( citiz5s & m]*ants ( ,london 9 h] reign4 7,fig4 #ab47 ,elizabe?4 ,dur+ ?is reign ! *ange ( co/ume1 :i* _h comm5c$ 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 0 complet$1 & 0 ( t fanta/ic "* n[ kn[n z 8! ,elizabe?an co/ume40 ,elizabe?1 by h] /rong individuality1 w\ld n be cont5t 8) ! same g>m5ts h] gr&mo!r affect$40 ,%e 0 fond also ( pleasure & display1 & ! ri*ness ( h] co/ume & t ( h] ladies naturally br\ght ab\t a correspond+ ri*ness 9 ! co/ume ( ! m54 ,be=e ?is "t1 ! ,engli% _h be5 l>gely indebt$ to =eign influ5ces = _! *anges 9 dress1 b n[ _! co/umes 7 l>gely develop$ 9 ?is c\ntry1 & ! _m extravagances & ! num]\s *anges caus$ consid]able surprise to ,cont95tal nations4 ,! innovations 9 dress 7 z bold z ^? 9 lit]ature & ! drama1 & correspond$ to ! d>+ & adv5tures ( h] soldi]s & sailors 9 f>-(f seas4 ,! trunk hose 7 ( v>i\s k9ds1 8! ,fr5* hose be+ r\nd & n>r[ & ga!r$ into a s]ies ( puffs ar\nd ! ?ighs4 ,! ,gally hose 7 made l>ge & wide1 rea*+ d[n to ! knees only4 ,! ,v5etian hose rea*$ b5ea? ! knee to ! g>t]+ place ( ! leg40 ,! d\blet _h a long wai/1 & bo? x & ! trunk hose 7 heavily sla%$4 ,a %ort cloak or mantle ) a /&+ coll>1 a ruff1 & a hat ) b& & fea!rs1 7 also worn4 ,at fir/ ! d\blet 0 worn tight-fitt+1 b lat] 9 h] reign ! 8peascod-belli$0 v>iety 0 introduc$4 ,x is se5 9 ! body dress ( our old fri5d ,pun*1 8^: w>drobe ( ,italian orig9 dates z ne>ly z possible f ?is p]iod40 ,x fitt$ ! body tightly1 & 0 c>ri$ d[n to a long peak 9 front1 :5ce x obta9$ ! "n 8peascod10 & x 0 /uff$ or 8bomba/$0 to ! requir$ %ape4 ,trunk hose 7 /uff$ ) wool1 rags or bran1 & 7 made v l>ge4 ,fig4 #ac is a good example ( ! dress ( a nobleman ( ?is p]iod4 ,! hats _h high cr[ns & broad brims4 ,be>ds1 :i* _h be5 worn 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 cont9u$ 9 ! reign ( ,elizabe?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #db4 7,fig4 #a73 ,male co/ume ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vii41 8a fair specim5 ( ! g5]al =m ( dress adopt$ by ! g5tlem5 ( ! age40 ,x 0 difficult at ?is "t to di/+ui% "o sex by ! dress f ano!r4 7,f ,royal ,,ms41 #ai1 ,c #h1 ,a4,d4 #adif47 7,fig4 #b73 ,co/ume ( a g5tleman ( ! ,e>ly ,tudor p]iod1 ) a close-fitt+ hat to :i* is affix$ long p5dant /ream]s ( clo?4 8,?is figure is rem>kable = its simplicity1 & may be receiv$ z ! type ( a g5tleman unspoil$ by ! fopp]y ( extravagance40 7,f ,h>l4 ,,ms4 ,no4 #d1dbe1 ,a4,d4 #adgi7 "o ( ! la/ ( ! priceless ,illum9at$ ,,mss41 & "o ( ! *ief au?orities = ! co/ume ( ! e>li] "p ( ?is reign4 7,fig4 #c73 ,flat cap1 :i* 0 ! g5]al head-dress ( m5 9 ! reigns ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 & ,edw>d ,,vi4 7,fig4 #d73 ,hat ) plumes ( fea!rs ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,vii4 ,f ! same ,,mss4 z 7,fig4 #b47 7,fig4 #e73 ,hat ( ! ,yeoman ( ! ,gu>d1 ) ?ree plumes1 f a contempor>y picture4 7,fig4 #f73 ,hat ( ! "t ( ,elizabe?1 f a picture ( h] fun]al4 7,figs4 #g & #i73 8,copota90 hats ( ! "t ( ,elizabe?1 f contempor>y pictures4 7,fig4 #h73 ,ano!r common =m ( hat ( ! "t ( ,elizabe?4 7,figs4 #aj & #aa73 8,sabbatons10 or %oes ) v broad toes1 puff$ & sla%$1 9 fa%ion 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,!y 7 g5]ally made ( black velvet or lea!r ) silk 9 ! sla%+s4 7,f contempor>y s\rces47 7,fig4 #ab73 ,ord9>y co/ume ( ! middle classes su* z 0 worn by ! citiz5s & m]*ants ( ,london4 7,f ,heywood's 8,p>able ( ! ,spid] & ! ,fly10 #aeef ,a4,d47 7,fig4 #ac73 ,co/ume ( a nobleman ( ! reign ( ,elizabe?4 ,he we>s an imm5se ruff1 8a peascod-belli$ d\blet10 quilt$ or /uff$ & cov]$ ) sla%es4 ,he also has ,v5etian bree*es1 sla%$ l ! d\blet1 /ock+s ( f9e black y>n1 & %oes ( :ite lea!r4 7,f a portrait ( ! reign ( ,elizabe?47 7,fig4 #ad73 ,wide1 /uff$ bree*es1 call$ 8bomba/$0 trunk hose1 worn ab\t #aege ,a4,d4 7,f a woodcut 9 8,! ,book ( ,falconrie407 7,figs4 #ae1 #af1 & #ag73 ,diff]5t /yles ( be>ds worn 9 ! reigns ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 & ,elizabe?4 8,ea* class ( ! community trimm$ _! be>ds aft] a fa%ion indicative ( _! pursuits40 7,fig4 #ae73 8,spade0 be>d ( a soldi]4 7,fig4 #af73 8,/iletto0 be>d ( a soldi]4 7,fig4 #ag73 8,great r\nd be>d40 7,all f contempor>y engrav+s47 ,,female ,,co/umes4 ,h5ry ,,vii4 ,! *ief article ( attire 9 female co/ume 0 ! robe1 :i* cont9u$ to be %ort wai/$1 & 0 worn ) sleeves ei!r ( ! v>iety n[ kn[n z ,bi%op's sleeves or wide & conf9$ at int]vals f ! elb[ to ! wri/4 ,! wai/ 0 small1 & ! neck 0 cut squ>e4 ,/oma*]s1 belts & buckles1 or girdles ) a long p5dant 9 front 7 also worn4 ,a w>m clo? hood 0 worn fold$ back f ! face ov] ! head 9 ?ick pleats beh9d1 ! edges be+ embroid]$ 7,fig4 #a7 ) gold or col\r$ ?reads4 ,caps & cauls ( gold net f b5ea? :i*1 9 ! case ( unm>ri$ ladies1 ! hair hung loose d[n ! back1 & v>i\s o!r =ms ( head-dresses 7 g5]ally 9 use4 ,! horn$ head-dress & ! /eeple cap disappe>$1 b ! mo/ /rik+ novelty = ! head 0 ! p$im5t or pyramidal-%ap$ hood worn p]fectly :ite4 7,fig4 #d47 ,! /iffness ( ?is article is a *>act]i/ic feature ( ! co/umes worn by ag$ ladies1 :o frequ5tly end$ _! lives 9 a conv5t1 or1 at any rate1 frequ5tly adopt$ ! conv5tual =m ( dress 9 _! wid[hood4 ,v num]\s examples ( ?is head-dress exi/ 9 effigies & brasses1 ! b&s be+ frequ5tly edg$ ) pe>ls & ornam5t$ ) preci\s /ones4 ,x cont9u$ 9 use = ab\t fifty ye>s4 ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,no great *anges took place 9 female co/ume dur+ ?is reign1 b !re 7 consid]able modifications 9 ! =ms ( head-dresses4 ,we h 9 exi/5ce ! portraits 7pa9t$ by ,holbe97 ( ! six wives ( ?is fickle mon>*1 & !y give u a good idea ( ! fa%ions ( wom5 ( high degree dur+ 8 reign ( ?irty-eight ye>s4 ,! new articles worn 7 ! habit-%irt or 8p>tlet0 & ! wai/coat4 ,! =m] sometimes _h sleeves1 & 0 made ( ri* mat]ials4 ,! wai/coat 0 simil> to t ( ! m54 ,! g[ns ( noble ladies 7 magnific5t1 & 7 made op5 to ! wai/1 %[+ ! kirtle or petticoat1 & _h tra9s4 ,ladies' sleeves 7 made wide & sep>ate1 l ^? ( ! m51 & c\ld be atta*$ at w to ei!r g[n or wai/coat4 ,!y 7 ( v ri* mat]ial1 v gorge\s 9 col\r & elaborate 9 con/ruction4 ,! dresses ( wom5 ( ! middle classes 7 sob] 9 ?is reign4 ,!y wore close hoods1 & wore p>tly ov] _! faces a muffle--an article t became v fa%ionable & rema9$ 9 use among eld]ly wom5 until ! reign ( ,*>les ,i4 7,fig4 #c47 ,! coif or cap1 famili>ly kn[n z ! ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots' cap1 came into use 9 ?is reign4 7,fig4 #ab47 ,edw>d ,,vi4 & ,m>y4 ,female co/umes 7 ! same z 9 ! previ\s reign4 ,! ord9>y dresses ( ! commonalty 7 pla92 a hood or clo? cap & apron ) close coll> & tight sleeves ) a small puff at ! %\ld]s 7 worn4 7,fig4 #f47 ,elizabe?4 ,elizabe? 0 inord9ately fond ( dress & display1 & f ! portraits ( h] 9 exi/5ce we see v cle>ly ! height ( ! fa%ions ( h] reign4 ,at ! comm5cem5t ! co/umes pass$ ?r\gh a transition p]iod4 ,ladies copi$ m5's fa%ions by hav+ d\blets & j]k9s z ! m5 _h1 button$ up at ! brea/ ) a small ruff ab\t ! neck4 ,! skirts at ?is "t 7 only padd$ to a slight ext5t at ! hips4 ,unm>ri$ wom5 wore l[-neck$ dresses ev5 out ( doors at ?is "t4 ,ab\t ! middle ( ,elizabe?'s reign ! great *ange took place :i* gave female co/ume ( ! sixte5? c5tury its rem>kable "*4 ,elizabe? h]self 0 long wai/$ & n>r[ *e/$1 & 9 ?is co/ume ! body 0 imprison$ 9 :alebone to ! hips1 :ile an enorm\s ruff 0 worn1 ris+ gradually f ! front ( ! %\ld]s to ne>ly ! height ( ! head beh9d4 ,f ! bosom1 p>tly b>e1 desc5d$ ! long /oma*] on ea* side ( :i* jutt$ out horizontally ! enorm\s 8f>d+ale0 or f>?+ale1 a con/ruction ( hoops simil> to ! cr9ol9e ( m rec5t times4 ,x project$ m at ! sides ?an 9 front or at ! back1 & _h a dw>f+ effect on ! height ( ! figure4 7,fig4 #aj47 ,! cap or coif 0 occasionally ex*ang$ = a r\nd bonnet l t ( ! m51 or ! hair 0 dress$ ) _m curls & adorn$ ) ropes & />s ( jewels or fea!rs4 ,ab\t ! middle ( h] reign1 ,elizabe? h]self wore false hair1 & ?is fa%ion 0 tak5 up by ! ladies ( h] c\rt1 s t x 0 made possible to build ! hair up to a great height4 ,z ,elizabe?'s hair 0 yell[ x 0 v fa%ionable to dye ! hair ! same col\r z ! ,que5's4 ,! ruff1 :i* 0 s important a feature ( ! co/ume ( ! p]iod1 made its appe>ance 9 ,engl& dur+ ,elizabe?'s reign1 & x rea*$ its greate/ size ab\t #aehj ,a4,d4 ,aft] ! end ( ! c5tury x began to decrease 9 size4 ,ruffs 7 n[ made ( lawn & cambric1 b orig9ally !y _h be5 made ( holl&4 ,! employm5t ( ^! light] mat]ials necessitat$ ! use ( />* = /iff5+4 ,b z !re 0 no "o 9 ,engl& :o c\ld />* or /iff5 !m1 ! ,que5 s5t to ,holl& = "s wom5 to come ov] z 8/>*]s ( ruffs40 ,"o ,dut* woman :o came ov] taught ! art ( />*+ at a fee ( #d to #e = ea* pupil1 & #bjs4 9 addition = tea*+ !m h[ to make ! />*4 ,"o ( ! writ]s ( ! "t compla9s l\dly ( ! practice ( />*+1 say+3 8,! devil ha? le>n$ !m to wa% & dive _! ruffs1 :i* be+ dry w !n /& /iff & inflexible ab\t _! necks40 ,! />* 0 made ( diff]5t col\rs--:ite1 r$1 blue1 & purple4 ,9 ord] t ! enorm\s ruffs might rema9 9 _! orig9al position1 !y 7 support$ by frameworks ( wire call$ 8supportasses10 cov]$ ) gold ?read1 silv]1 or silk4 7,fig4 #g47 ,9 #aegi ,elizabe? issu$ ord]s t long cloaks %\ld n be worn1 8nor su* great excessive ruffles40 ,x 0 9 ?is reign t ,william ,lee1 ,m4,a41 a ,fell[ ( ,/4 ,john's ,college1 ,cambridge1 inv5t$ a /ock+ frame1 & work$ ) x at ,calv]ton1 a village ne> ,nott+ham4 ,!re 0 consid]able opposition to him & 8 ma*9e f ! o!r hosi]y manufactur]s1 & he left ?is c\ntry to take up 8 abode 9 ,r\54 ,/ock+s 7 worn ( 8silk1 j>nsey1 cruel1 or ! f9e/ y>ns1 ?read1 or clo? t c\ld be _h1 & !y 7 ( all col\rs40 ,ladies' %oes 7 ( _m col\rs & ( _m fa%ions4 8,"s ( black velvet1 "s ( :ite1 "s ( gre51 & "s ( yell[2 "s ( ,spani% lea!r1 "s ( ,engli%1 /it*$ ) silk & embroid]$ ) gold & silv] all ov] ! foot40 ,:5 rid+ abroad1 ladies wore masks & visors ( velvet ) holes = ! eyes4 ,!y wore mu* jewell]y1 & p]fum$ gloves embroid]$ ) gold & silv]1 & !y c>ri$ look+-glasses ab\t ) !m :]ev] !y w5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #dc4 7,fig4 #a73 ,co/ume ( a lady ( ! e>ly "p ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vii4 ,! w>m clo? hood took ! place ( ! gauze veil on ! head-dress1 & x 0 fold$ back f ! face & pleat$ beh9d4 ,! g[n 0 op5 f ! neck to ! wai/ beh9d1 & 0 lac$ up4 ,no girdle 0 worn4 ,! fulness ( ! sleeves & ( ! g>m5t g5]ally give a v heavy appe>ance to ! figure4 7,fig4 #b73 ,ano!r view ( a simil> clo? head-dress4 ,figs4 #a & #b are copi$ f ,royal ,,ms41 #af ,f #b4 7,fig4 #c73 ,head ( a female figure ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vii41 %[+ ! face p>tly cov]$ by a muffl]1 :i* became v fa%ionable & 0 9 use among eld] wom5 up to ! reign ( ,*>les ,i4 7,fig4 #d73 ,p$im5t1 pyramidal1 or diamond-%ap$ head-dress ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 f a portrait by ,holbe94 7,fig4 #e73 ,head ( 8,cicely ,page1 :o di$ ye ,x,i,ith daye ( ,m>*1 ,anno #aeih10 & is buri$ 9 ,bray ,*ur*1 ,bucks1 f h] effigy4 8,! pla9 hat1 ruff1 & op5-brea/$ g[n are a good specim5 ( "p ( ! dress ( a c\ntry lady at ! end ( ,elizabe?'s reign40 7,fig4 #f73 ,female figure %[+ dress worn by a woman ( ! citiz5 class 9 ! "t ( ,edw>d ,,vi41 f a picture %[+ 8 progress f ! ,t[] to ,we/m9/]4 ,a clo? cap is worn ) a bord] hang+ r\nd ! neck1 & a g[n ) close coll> & tight sleeves1 ! latt] ) small puffs on ! %\ld]s4 7,fig4 #g73 ,back view ( a ruff z worn 9 ! middle ( ,elizabe?'s reign1 copi$ f a ,dut* engrav+ ( ! p]iod1 %[+ ! 8supportasse0 or "u prop ( wire to keep ! ruff 9 its orig9al position4 7,fig4 #h73 ,head ( a female figure f ! tomb ( ,sir ,rog] ,manwood1 #aeib1 9 ,/4 ,/eph5's ,*ur*1 ne> ,cant]bury1 %[+ ! ,fr5* hood z worn dur+ ! latt] "p ( ,elizabe?'s reign4 7,fig4 #i73 ,pyramidal head-dress tak5 f a portrait ( ! ,lady ,m>y1 aft]w>ds ,que5 ,m>y ,i41 by ,holbe94 ,! broad b&s :i* are se5 hang+ d[n 9 ,fig4 #d are "h loop$ up on ei!r side ( ! head1 & ! bag-l portion1 :i* =m]ly hung d[n ! back1 is also br\ght up to ! top ( ! head & fa/5$ !re4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,co/ume ( a lady worn ab\t ! middle ( ,elizabe?'s reign1 f ! pr9t by ,v]tue repres5t+ ! progress ( ,elizabe? to ,hunsd[n ,h\se4 ,?is %[s ! enorm\s ruff & ! huge1 unga9ly-look+ 8f>d+ale10 & ! long /oma*] br\ght l[ d[n to a peak 9 front4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,co/ume ( a lady ( quality1 #aehh1 f ,casp> ,ruiz1 dur+ ! latt] "p ( ,elizabe?'s reign4 ,! ruff is "h r$uc$ to small dim5sions1 & ! :ole co/ume is mu* m graceful ?an ! grotesque figure %[n 9 ,fig4 #aj4 7,fig4 #ab73 ,brass ( ,anne ,r$e1 :o di$ #aegg1 %[+ a ruff ( ord9>y size & a ,fr5* hood (t5 spok5 ( z a ,m>ie ,/u>t bonnet4 ,,plate ,,arm\r4 7,ab\t #aejj ,a4,d4 to ab\t #afjj ,a4,d47 #d? ,p]iod1 ab\t #aejj ,a4,d4 to ab\t #aebf ,a4,d4--,arm\r _h n[ rea*$ a great pit* ( p]fection4 ,h[ p]fect x 0 may be judg$ f ! fact t 9 _m ( ! battles v few knights 7 sla94 ,_! greate/ dang] lay 9 be+ unhors$ & ridd5 ov]1 & ( be+ sla9 :ile ly+ helpless on ! gr\nd4 ,aft] a battle1 ! camp foll[]s & s]vants ( ! victors flock$ ab\t ! m5-at-arms :o _h be5 ov]?r[n1 & slew mo/ ( !m by break+ op5 ! 8viz>ds0 ( _! head-pieces & !n cleav+ _! heads4 ,at ! beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury ! po9t$ soll]ets gave place to ! broad-to$ sabbatons 7,fig4 #a71 cut (f squ>e or r\nd$ at ! toes1 foll[+ z 9 =m] times ! fa%ion ( ! %oes 9 civil co/ume4 ,! brea/plate 0 globul> 9 =m & n>r[ at ! wai/4 ,a regul> skirt ( *a9 mail 0 add$ n[ to ! knightly co/ume1 rea*+ half-way d[n ! ?igh bel[ ! l[e/ "p ( ! tuilles4 ,!y 7 probably f\nd m conv5i5t to horsem5 ?an solid plates ( ov]lapp+ /eel 7,fig4 #a74 ,arm\r g5]ally became m massive1 & ! enri*m5t & ornam5tation 7 v elaborate4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 ! helmets took ! =m ( ! head1 & _h flexible1 ov]lapp+ plates ( /eel cov]+ & protect+ ! neck4 ,!y 7 call$ ,armets1 & 7 worn ) & )\t face-pieces4 ,z 9 e>li] times1 we f9d 9 pictures ( ! p]iod a great v>iety ( fa%ion & great div]g5ce bo? ( arms1 & arm\r br\ght toge!r 9 ! same troop ( w>riors4 ,! halb]d1 fir/ m5tion$ 9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv41 0 n[ a weapon 9 common use ) ! infantry 7,fig4 #e74 ,! h& gun or cannon 0 also fir/ g5]ally kn[n 9 ,engl& dur+ ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv4 ,x 0 n[ improv$ by ! addition ( a lock1 & 0 call$ an arc-a-b\sa1 corrupt$ into arquebus1 & 0 famili>is$ to ! ,engli% by ,h5ry ,,vii4 #e? ,p]iod1 ab\t #aebe ,a4,d4 to ab\t #afjj ,a4,d4--,dur+ ?is p]iod 8all ! ri* & fanciful f]tility ( inv5tion :i* di/+ui%$ ! arti/s ( ! sixte5? c5tury 0 lavi%$ on ! enri*m5t & ornam5tation ( arm\r10 :ile z actual protective cov]+ its value began to decl9e4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t 8arm\r us$ on ! battlefield 0 mu* light] & less complete ?an t us$ 9 ! t\rnam5t1 :]e protection to ! we>] 0 m consid]$ ?an 8 ability to hurt 8 oppon5t40 ,9 ! ,t[] ( ,london !re is1 among o!rs1 a suit ( arm\r giv5 to ,h5ry ,,viii4 by ! ,emp]or ,maximilian z a w$d+ pres5t on ! occasion ( 8 m>riage to ,ka!r9e ( ,arragon1 :i* is consid]$ to be "o ( ! f9e/ 9 exi/5ce4 ,! badges 7roses1 pomegranates1 portcullis1 etc47 ( ,h5ry & ( ,ka!r9e1 ) _! initials unit$ by a true-lov]s' knot1 are engrav$ on x1 & x is also elaborately ornam5t$ & cov]$ ) engrav+s f ! ,lives ( ! ,sa9ts4 ,! greate/ innovation 9 ! arm\r ( ?is p]iod 0 ! introduction ( ! lamboy 7,fig4 #g7 or out/&+ /eel skirt1 :i* took ! place ( taces & tuilles1 & cov]$ ! body f ! wai/ to ! knees 9 flut$ folds ribb$ v]tically1 giv+ x mu* ! appe>ance ( an inflat$ petticoat4 ,x 0 slop$ away be=e & beh9d to all[ ! we>] to sit ) m ease 9 ! saddle4 ,! pauldrons or %\ld]-pieces 7 made v l>ge1 & ! %ield 0 also elaborately %ap$ & curv$ to =m an out] arm\r = ! protection ( all ! left side ( ! body4 ,in/ead ( ! %ield1 h[ev]1 an additional piece ( arm\r call$ ! gr&e-g>de 0 sometimes screw$ to ! brea/plate to protect ! left side & %\ld]1 :ile ! great spe> _h also a piece ( arm\r fix$ 9 front ( ! grasp1 :i* n only protect$ ! h&1 b 0 l>ge en\gh to make a k9d ( %ield = ! left arm & brea/4 ,! tilt+ helmet disappe>$ altoge!r ab\t ?is p]iod1 & ! head-piece 0 adorn$ ) /ream+ plumes4 ,! arm\r g5]ally1 by its be+ flut$ & lam9at$ & puff$1 imitat$ ! co/ume ( ! "t4 ,b all ov] ! cont95t ( ,europe1 z well z 9 ,engl&1 lead]s ( exp]i5ce 7 f9d+ out t arm\r 0 useless & cumb]some2 9 fact1 x 0 becom+ a que/ionable k9d ( protection4 ,x 0 said t _m soldi]s at ?irty ye>s ( age 7 practically de=m$ or brok5 d[n 9 heal? ?r\gh ! habit ( con/antly we>+ arm\r4 ,pres5tly ! troop]s took ! matt] 9 _! own h&s by n comm5c+ to put on _! arm\r until ! mom5t ( battle1 & !n1 n hav+ "t to arm !mselves1 !y w5t into battle ) _! buff lea!r or padd$ jackets z _! only protection4 ,9 ! reign ( ,elizabe?1 :5 long-wai/$ d\blets & %ort trunk hose became ! fa%ion1 ! arm\r 0 consid]ably modifi$4 ,! cuirass or brea/plate 0 made long wai/$1 copy+ ! d\blet1 ridg$ & br\ght to a peak 9 front kn[n z ! 8peascod40 ,! front ( ! ?igh 0 protect$ by lam9at$ ?igh pieces1 :i* pass$ "u ! trunk hose1 :ile ! l[] "p ( ! leg 0 protect$ by knee-caps & jamb>ts or %9-pieces4 ,buckl$ to ! rim ( ! cuirass1 & hang+ d[n ov] ! trunk hose1 7 two l>ge tassets1 ! mo/ *>act]i/ic feature ( ,elizabe?an arm\r4 ,!y consi/$ ( a numb] ( h+$ plates fa/5$ to "o ano!r2 !y are usually r\nd$ (f at ! knees & fa/5$ to ! bree*es by lea!r /raps4 ,! pauldrons ^u ! %\ld]s 7 also l>ge1 b !re 7 no ridges or gu>ds1 & !y consi/$ ( sev]al plates rivet$ toge!r4 ,!y 7 g5]ally l9$ ) lea!r4 ,! helm 0 a close ,armet1 b v frequ5tly ! ,morion 7,fig4 #c71 :i* 0 a v>iety ( ! salade1 0 worn4 ,! foot soldi]s ( ! p]iod 7 arm$ ) a brea/ & back plate1 & ) tassets rea*+ to ! knees4 ,! swords ( ! "t commonly _h gu>d$ or basket hilts4 ,! pike 0 introduc$ into ?is c\ntry 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 & became ! common weapon = infantry up to ! "t ( ,william ,,iii4 ,9 ! reign ( ,elizabe?1 ! arm\r seldom came l[] ?an j bel[ ! hip1 & complete suits 7 us$ only = ! t\rnam5t4 ,! brass ( ,humphrey ,brew/] illu/rates well ! arm\r ( ! ,elizabe?an ,p]iod describ$ above4 7,fig4 #aj47 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #dd4 7,fig4 #a73 ,brass ( 8,ri*>d ,gyll1 squy]1 late s]geant ( ! bakeh\s wy? ,kyng ,h5ry ! ,,vii4 & also wy? ,kyng ,h5ry ! ,,viii410 9 ,%ottesbrooke ,*ur*1 ,hamp%ire1 ,a4,d4 #aeaa4 ,?is %[s ! type ( arm\r 9 use at ! end ( ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,vii4 ,!re are high ridges on ! %\ld]-pieces1 v simple elb[-pieces1 f\r n>r[ taces ar\nd ! wai/1 ) two small tuilles ov] a tunic ( mail4 ,! broad toes ( ! sabbatons are also %[n4 7,fig4 #b73 ,morion ( ! reign ( ,elizabe?1 ,a4,d4 #aefj4 7,fig4 #c73 ,ano!r morion ( ! same reign f ! ,t[] ( ,london4 7,fig4 #d73 ,armet ) cre/ ( ,sir ,george ,brooke1 ,k4,g41 #h? ,"l ,cobham1 f 8 tomb 9 ,cobham ,*ur*1 ,k5t1 #adhj-aejj4 7,fig4 #e73 ,halb]d ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii41 ! cutt+ edge be+ %ap$ l a half-moon4 ,! /aves ( ^! weapons 7 (t5 cov]$ ) velvet /udd$ ) brass-head$ nails4 7,fig4 #f73 ,p>tisan 7a v>iety ( ! pike7 ( ! same p]iod1 ) ! side blades %>p on bo? edges4 7,fig4 #g73 ,lamboys f ! arm\r pres5t$ by ! ,emp]or ,maximilian to ,h5ry ,,viii41 n[ 9 ! ,t[] ( ,london4 7,fig4 #h73 ,brea/ & back plates ( ! 8peascod0 =m1 f ab\t #aehj ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #i73 ,engli% armet1 ab\t #aejj ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,brass ( ,humphrey ,brew/]1 9 ,wr5?am ,*ur*1 ,suffolk1 #aeic ,a4,d4 ,?is is typical ( ,elizabe?an arm\r4 ,! lam9at$ %\ld] pieces are p>ticul>ly noticeable1 ne>ly meet+ ov] ! cuirass2 ! long tassets ( ov]lapp+1 h+$ /eel plates rea*+ to & r\nd$ (f at ! knees1 ! basket =m ( sword hilt & ! long-wai/$ peascod =m ( ! brea/ plate are v *>act]i/ic4 ,! tassets 7 g5]ally l9$ ) lea!r1 & ! scallop$ edges1 =m+ an ornam5tal bord]1 are pla9ly %[n4 ,,p]p5dicul> ,,ar*itecture4 ,! ,transition f ,decorat$ to ,p]p5dicul> ar*itecture is n s app>5t at fir/ sight z betwe5 ! o!r /yles2 b x may be trac$ q cle>ly4 ,! *ange 0 se5 9 ! *oir & transepts ( ,gl\ce/] ,ca!dral be=e ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,?is ,transition beg9s ! decl9e ( ,go?ic ar*itecture f ! p]fect & symmetrical ,decorat$ to ! /yle :i* %[$ m elaborate & ri*] "w1 b 0 want+ 9 ! elegant effect = :i* ! ,decorat$ ,p]iod /&s unequall$4 ,! ,p]p5dicul> ,p]iod is v mu* ! longe/ 9 po9t ( "t1 ext5d+1 z x did1 ov] #agj ye>s4 ,! "n is bo? descriptive & appropriate to ! /yle1 & ! *ief in/rum5t by :i* ?is effect is produc$ is ! /raight-sid$1 %all[1 sunk panell+4 ,9 previ\s times ! panel _h be5 us$ b sp>+ly1 b n[ ! :ole surface1 inside & outside1 0 cov]$ ) x4 ,! beautiful fl[+ trac]y ( ! ,decorat$ ,p]iod 0 supplant$ by ! mullions1 runn+1 z a rule1 /raight up f ! sill to ! w9d[ top4 ,! spaces betwe5 7 frequ5tly divid$ & subdivid$ by simil> p]p5dicul> l9es1 s t p]p5dicul>ity is mo/ di/9ctly ! *>act]i/ic ( ^! w9d[s4 ,9 fact1 by ?is subdivision ! w9d[s became simply an arrangem5t ( panels1 pi]c$ to let 9 ! light4 ,z ! t5d5cy ( ! ,p]p5dicul> /yle is to employ ! v]tical l9e at ! exp5se ( ! horizontal1 a g5]al squ>5ess spread f ! *>act]i/ic trac+ & panell+ to ! o!r features & details4 ,9 ! lat] examples ( ?is p]iod ! ar*es ( ! w9d[s & doorways became flatt5$1 & ! f\r-c5tr$ ,tudor ar*1 s call$ because x 0 =m$ ( curves describ$ f f\r c5tres 7,pl4 #de1 ,fig4 #d71 began to be ext5sively us$1 until all beauty & proportion 7 lo/1 & /iffness & squ>5ess became ! /rik+ *>act]i/ics ( ?is /yle4 ,! lat] w9d[s _h frequ5tly great wid? 9 proportion to _! height1 & !y 7 plac$ s ne> toge!r t ! wall space 0 r$uc$ & ! /r5g? ( ! build+ entirely dep5d$ ^u ! buttresses4 ,! w9d[s 7 orig9ally fill$ ) pa9t$ glass1 & ! panel =m ( ! subdivision l5t itself admirably to ?is decoration4 ,squ>e-head$ ,w9d[s 7,pl4 #de1 ,fig4 #f7 are frequ5t 9 ?is /yle1 & ! doorways 7 g5]ally set 9 a squ>e frame 7,fig4 #d71 ?\gh _m ( ! lat] doorways are frequ5tly v ri* 9 ! decoration ov] !m4 ,! foliage employ$ 9 ?is /yle1 by reason ( its squ>5ess1 is mu* less beautiful ?an t ( ! ,decorat$ ,p]iod4 ,x has nei!r ! vig\r & beauty ( ! ,e>ly ,engli% nor ! imitative skill ( ! ,decorat$4 ,x is angul>1 %all[1 & (t5 wood5 9 appe>ance4 ,an ornam5t us$ v ext5sively dur+ ?is p]iod 0 ! s-call$ 8,tudor ornam5t40 7,pl4 #de1 ,fig4 #g1 & ,pl4 #df1 ,fig4 #g47 ,x is f\nd$ on ! fleur-de-lis alt]nate ) a trefoil or ball1 b al?\gh poor 9 inv5tion1 has frequ5tly a v ri* effect1 z 9 ,h5ry ,,vii4's *apel at ,we/m9/]4 ,p]p5dicul> m\ld+s diff] mu* f ^? ( ! prec$+ /yles1 & %[ a m>k$ fall+ (f4 ,!y are1 9 g5]al1 %all[]1 hav+ m bread? & less dep?4 ,9 ar*es !y are (t5 c>ri$ d[n to ! gr\nd )\t any capitals or columns4 ,9 c\ntry *ur*es ! m\ld+s are (t5 feeble or co>se & clumsy4 ,! ,capitals ( ! columns are ei!r circul> or octagonal4 ,! bell portion is mo/ly pla91 b is sometimes curv$1 ) foliage ( a %all[ & =mal "*1 twi/$ horizontally r\nd x4 ,p>ticul>ly 9 ! *ur*es ( ,devon%ire ?is foliage is f\nd1 & x is (t5 spok5 (1 consequ5tly1 z 8,devon%ire foliage40 ,! ,buttresses are simil> to ^? ( ! prec$+ /yle1 b are frequ5tly panell$ & project m f ! wall4 ,_m *ur*es 7 built 9 ! ,p]p5dicul> /yle1 & ! majority ( e>ly *ur*es 7 ei!r enl>g$ or rebuilt dur+ ?is p]iod1 s t x is ! prevail+ *>act]i/ic ,engli% /yle1 & !re are comp>atively few *ur*es :i* d n display "s features belong+ to x4 ,! r$eem+ features ( ! ,p]p5dicul> /yle are its t[]s1 its elaborate /one vault+s1 & its timb]$ ro(s4 ,! t[]s are (t5 extremely ri*1 & are ornam5t$ v elaborately1 hav+ f\r or five /oreys ( l>ge w9d[s ) ri* canopies & p9nacles1 d\ble buttresses at ! bottom1 & ri* p>apets ) crocket$ turrets at ! corn]s4 ,"o ( ! mo/ beautiful is t ( ,magdal5 ,college1 ,ox=d4 ,p>apets ) squ>e battlem5ts become an important feature4 ,!y are (t5 panell$ or pi]c$ ) trac]y1 :i* frequ5tly conta9s %ields ) armorial be>+s & h]aldic devices4 ,a v ri* =m ( vault+ 0 frequ5tly us$1 compos$ ( inv]t$1 curv$ semi-cones cov]$ ) foliat$ panel "w4 ,:5 se5 f bel[1 ^! pres5t a fan-l appe>ance1 & ! "w receiv$ ! "n ( 8fan-trac]y40 7,pl4 #df1 ,fig4 #a47 ,"o ( ! ri*e/ examples ( x is ,h5ry ,,vii4's ,*apel at ,we/m9/] ,abbey1 :]e an almo/ incr$ible po9t 0 rea*$ 9 ! lightness & delicacy ( its lace-l /onework4 ,dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury c>p5try _h be5 br\ght to a high pit* ( p]fection4 ,timb] ro(s rea*$ _! highe/ developm5t 9 :at is kn[n z ! ,hamm]-beam ro(4 7,pl4 #df1 ,figs4 #e1 #f47 ,9 ?is1 a bracket call$ ! ,hamm]-beam 7,pl4 #df1 ,fig4 #e ,h7 re/s on ! top ( ! wall & projects into ! build+1 to /r5g!n ! latt] & to dim9i% ! lat]al pressure t falls on ! walls4 ,?is =m ( ro( l5ds itself to a highly decorative treatm5t1 ! f9e/ example be+ t ( ,we/m9/] ,hall 79 ! ,h\ses ( ,p>liam5t71 erect$ 9 ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #de4 7,fig4 #a73 ,p]p5dicul> w9d[ f ,/4 ,m>y's1 ,devizes1 ,wilts41 ab\t #adej ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #b73 ,p]p5dicul> w9d[ f ! ,cl]e-/ory1 ,york ,m9/]1 ,a4,d4 #acfa-adjh4 7,fig4 #c73 ,p]p5dicul> capital ) ,devon%ire foliage1 f ,/oke-9-,teignhead1 ,devon%ire1 ab\t #adhj ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #d73 ,p]p5dicul> doorway f ,/4 ,pet]'s1 ,*e/]4 7,fig4 #e73 ,panell$ buttress f ! ,div9ity ,s*ool1 ,ox=d1 ab\t #adej ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #f73 ,p]p5dicul> squ>e-head$ w9d[ f ,*ri/*ur* ,college1 ,ox=d4 7,fig4 #g73 ,p]p5dicul> battlem5ts1 panell$ & decorat$ ) ! 8,tudor fl[]10 f ,s4 ,lav5ham1 ,suffolk4 7,fig4 #h73 ,"p ( ar* f ,/4 ,agnes'1 ,caw/on1 ,norfolk1 %[+ a crocket 7,a7 & cusp+ 7,b74 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #df4 7,fig4 #a73 ,fan trac]y f ,/4 ,/eph5's ,cloi/]1 ,we/m9/] ,hall4 7,fig4 #b73 ,p]p5dicul> capitals & foliage f ,bev]ley ,m9/]1 ,york%ire4 7,fig4 #c73 ,base ( ,p]p5dicul> column f ! ,lady ,*apel1 ,w9*e/]1 ab\t #adfj ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #d73 ,section ( ,p]p5dicul> m\ld+ f ,/4 ,m>y's1 ,ox=d1 #adhh ,a4,d4 7,fig4 #e73 ,section %[+ con/ruction ( ,hamm]-beam ro(4 ,h1 ,h1 hamm] beams2 ,r1 ,r1 raft]s4 7,fig4 #f73 ,portion ( ! ,hamm]-beam timb] ro( f ,/4 ,/eph5's ,*ur*1 ,norwi*4 ,! ,ea/]n c\nties are p>ticul>ly ri* 9 ^! f9e timb]$ ro(s4 7,fig4 #g73 ,! 8,tudor fl[]0 ornam5t f ,h5ry ,,vii4's ,*apel 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey4 7,fig4 #h73 ,plan ( oblong ,p]p5dicul> pill>4 ,oblong pill>s are common 9 l>ge build+s4 7,figs4 #i & #aj73 ,base ( ,p]p5dicul> columns4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,c>v$ ,p]p5dicul> ornam5t f ! 7wood57 scre5 at ,high ,ham4 ,,/u>t ,,p]iod 7,to ,william ,,iii474 ,,male ,,co/umes4 ,james ,i4 ,little *ange 0 made 9 ! e>ly "p ( ?is reign f ! co/umes worn at ! end ( ,elizabe?'s reign4 ,! peascod d\blet1 ! conical-cr[n$ hat1 & ! l>ge trunk hose1 also call$ 8bomba/$ bree*es10 sla%$1 quilt$1 /uff$1 & lac$1 7 worn z be=e4 7,fig4 #aj47 ,! c[>dly despotism ( ,james l$ him to gu>d 8 p]son1 at all times awkw>d & unga9ly1 ) quilt$ & padd$ clo?+ 9 ord] t x might be dagg]-pro(4 ,! 8great r\nd abom9able bree*10 z ! satiri/s t]m$ x1 n[ tap]$ to ! knee1 & 0 sla%$ all ov] & cov]$ ) lace & embroid]y1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #aj1 :i* repres5ts 8 ,maje/y1 9 #afad4 ,corsets 7 also worn at ?is "t to give ! requir$ %ape to ! upp] "p ( ! body4 ,! hat ( ! p]iod1 a truncat$ cone1 w also be notic$1 ) a fea!r at ! side & turn$-up brim4 ,x 0 frequ5tly ornam5t$ ) preci\s /ones4 ,) reg>d to ! bomba/$ bree*es1 an amus+ tale is told ( a man :o 0 be+ prosecut$ at ?is "t = hav+ 8 bree*es /uff$ ) prohibit$ articles1 b he 0 acquitt$ because he prov$ to ! satisfaction ( 8 judges t 8 /uff+ 8consi/$ m]ely ( a pair ( %eets1 two tableclo?s1 t5 napk9s1 f\r %irts1 a bru%1 a glass1 a comb1 & a night-cap40 ,! ruff 0 sometimes ex*ang$ = a wide1 /iff coll>1 /&+ out horizontally & squ>ely1 & />*$ & wir$ z usual1 b pla9 in/ead ( pleat$1 & x 0 sometimes edg$1 l ! ruff1 ) lace4 ,^! coll>s 7 call$ 8b&s10 & 7 usually /iff5$ ) yell[ />*4 ,a slight alt]ation 9 co/ume 0 made 9 ,james's reign4 ,%ort jackets or d\blets 7 worn1 & ! trunk hose1 in/ead ( be+ sla%$ & lac$1 7 cov]$ ) broad1 loose /rips1 ri*ly embroid]$ or adorn$ ) buttons1 display+ ! silk or velvet trunk 9 ! n>r[ int]vals betwe5 ! /rips 7see ,plate #ej1 ,fig4 #a1 :i* %[s ,pr9ce ,h5ry1 ! elde/ son ( ,james ,i474 ,! clo!s ( ! nobles 7 v gorge\s1 be+ made ( silk & velvet1 & ornam5t$ ) lace1 gold & gems4 ,x 0 said t ,george ,villi]s1 ,duke ( ,buck+ham1 a fav\rite ( ,james ,i41 _h a :ite velvet suit1 decorat$ ) diamonds valu$ at f\rte5 ?\s& p\nds4 ,silk1 wor/$1 & ?read /ock+s 7 n[ almo/ univ]sally worn4 ,9 a com$y writt5 9 #afjg1 a g5tleman's w>drobe is ?us enum]at$3 8,a cloak l9$ ) ri* taffeta1 a :ite sat9 suit1 ! j]k9 cov]$ ) gold lace1 a *a9 ( pe>l1 a gilt rapi] 9 an embroid]$ hang]1 pe>l-col\r$ silk /ock+s1 & a pair ( massive gilt spurs40 ,pure :ite co/umes ( silk1 velvet1 or clo? 7 v fa%ionable at ?is "t4 ,jewels 7 sometimes worn 9 ! e>s ( g5tlem51 & !y also _h a cu/om ( all[+ a long lock ( hair1 call$ a 8love-lock10 to hang ov] ^u ! brea/ 7,fig4 #b74 ,! co/ume ( a yeoman ( ! p]iod consi/$ ( a n>r[-brimm$ hat ) flat cr[n1 a d\blet ) l>ge w+s & %ort skirts1 a girdle ab\t 8 wai/1 trunk bree*es1 ) hose drawn up to ! ?igh & g>t]$ bel[ ! knees4 ,*>les ,i4 & ! ,commonweal?4 ,x is said t ! male co/umes 9 ?is reign 7 8! mo/ elegant & picturesque ev] worn 9 ,engl&40 ,! *>act]i/ic co/ume worn by ,*>les 9 8 portrait by ,v&yke is (t5 spok5 ( z ! ,v&yke co/ume & 0 introduc$ ab\t ! middle ( 8 reign4 ,9 ! e>li] "p1 ! fa%ions ( 8 fa!r1 ,james ,i41 7 cont9u$4 ,! *ange f ! 8bomba/$0 or /uff$ bree*es to ! elegant co/ume ( ?is reign is ascrib$ to ! ref9$ ta/es ( ,*>les & 8 ,que51 & also to ! fact t ! size ( ! /uff$ bree*es made x impossible = g5tlem5 to f9d seat+ accommodation at masques1 etc41 :5 ea* spectator took up ! place ( ?ree p]sons 9 a rational attire4 ,at ! comm5cem5t ( ! ,civil ,w>1 ! ,royali/ p>ty or ,cavali]s1 & ! ,republican p>ty or ,r\ndheads1 7 z opposite 9 _! co/umes z !y 7 div]se 9 _! op9ions4 8,! ,cavali]'s co/ume consi/$ ( a d\blet ( ri* mat]ials1 silk1 sat91 or velvet1 ) l>ge1 loose sleeves1 sla%$ up ! front1 ! coll> cov]$ ) a fall+ b& ( ! ri*e/ po9t lace4 ,a %ort cloak 0 worn c>elessly ov] "o %\ld]4 ,long bree*es1 fr+$ or po9t$1 met ! broad tops ( ! boots1 :i* 7 trimm$ ) lace or lawn4 ,a broad-leav$ ,flemi% beav]-hat ) a ri* hat-b& & plume ( fea!rs1 0 set on "o side ( ! head1 & a ,spani% rapi] hung f a magnific5t baldrick or sword belt1 worn sa%-wise ov] ! "r %\ld]40 ,9 ! tr\bl$ times ( ?is reign1 ! silk or velvet d\blet 0 (t5 ex*ang$ = a ri*ly-lac$ buff 7lea!r7 coat4 ,a broad sa% or sat9 sc>f 0 ti$ r\nd ! wai/ 9 a l>ge b[4 ,! be>d 0 worn v peak$1 ) small1 upturn$ m\/a*e1 & ! hair 0 long 9 ! neck1 & sometimes p[d]$4 ,! extravagant co/ume worn by "s is %[n 9 ,fig4 #b1 :i* depicts an exquisite ( #afdf4 ,among ! mo/ noticeable features 9 ?is co/ume are ! 8love-locks10 ti$ ) ribbon1 on ei!r side ( ! head 7:i* 7 a special abom9ation to ! ,puritans71 ! pat*es on ! face1 & ! %irt protrud+ f ! p>tly-op5 ve/1 ! %ort bree*es 8ornam5t$ ) _m doz5s ( po9ts at ! knees1 &1 above !m1 on ei!r side1 two great bun*es ( ribbon1 ( sev]al col\rs40 ,! tops ( 8 boots are v l>ge1 fr+$ ) lace1 & turn$ d[n almo/ to ! heels4 ,v diff]5t f ?is figure 0 t ( ! ,r\ndhead1 ) close-cropp$ hair1 clo!s ( extreme simplicity1 sev]e cut1 & sob] col\rs1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #d4 ,x w be ga!r$ f ! =ego+ rem>ks t ! dress ( ! v>i\s classes ( ! community pres5t$ a consid]able mixture4 ,:5 ,cromwell 0 9 p[]1 ! g5]al t5d5cy 0 t[>ds pla9ness ( attire4 ,*>les ,,ii4 ,:5 ,*>les ,,ii4 asc5d$ ! ?rone1 at ! ,re/oration1 great extravagance & folly 7 %[n by 8 c\rti]s 9 _! co/ume1 aft] ! /]n rule ( ! ,puritans1 & _m new fa%ions 7 introduc$ f ,france1 :]e ,*>les _h resid$ = s long a "t4 ,?is 0 8! natural reaction aft] tw5ty ye>s ( unc]ta9ty1 gloom1 & fanatical oppression4 ,! d\blet 0 made v %ort1 op5 9 front1 )\t any wai/coat1 %[+ a ri* %irt1 :i* bulg$ out 9 front ov] ! wai/b& ( ! loose bree*es1 ! latt]1 z well z ! l>ge1 full sleeves1 be+ ornam5t$ ) ribbons & po9ts or laces40 ,b5ea? ! knee hung long1 droop+ lace ruffles1 & a fall+ coll> ( ! ri*e/ lace envelop$ ! neck4 ,a high-cr[n$ hat1 ) a broad brim & a plume ( fea!rs1 /ill pres]v$ its cavali] "*4 ,a %ort cloak1 edg$ deep ) gold lace 0 usually worn or c>ri$ ov] ! arm4 ,b ! practice ( copy+ ,fr5* fa%ions gave rise to ! mon/r\s 8p]iwig10 a corruption ( 8p]ruque0 or 8p]uke40 7,fig4 #c47 ,! p]iwig _h1 h[ev]1 be5 worn 9 ,engl& = _m ye>s1 b did n become fa%ionable until ?is reign4 ,) its introduction1 !re came a *ange 9 ! =m ( ! hat4 8,d[n w5t ! cr[n1 & up w5t ! brim at ! sides10 & a k9d ( ru*e ( fea!rs replac$ ! wav+ plume ( ! ,cavali]4 ,?is 01 9 fact1 ! fir/ /ep t[>ds ! cock$ hat ( ! #ah? c5tury4 ,a g>m5t call$ ! 8petticoat bree*es0 0 introduc$ into ,engl& 9 #afeh4 ,^! are well illu/rat$ 9 ,figs4 #f1 #g1 & #h 7f a draw+ ab\t #afeh74 ,! d\blet1 or jacket1 :i*1 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! reign1 b>ely rea*$ to ! wai/1 0 n[ l5g!n$1 rea*+ ! middle ( ! ?ighs1 ) sleeves to ! elb[s1 t]m9at$ by r[s & bun*es ( ribbon1 f "u :i* bulg$ =? ! sleeves ( ! %irt1 ruff$1 & adorn$ also pr(usely ) ribbons4 ,:5 buttons & button holes 7 add$ d[n ! front1 x became a coat4 ,neckclo?s or cravats1 ( ,brussels & ,fl&]s lace1 came into use t[>ds ! close ( ! reign1 be+ ti$ 9 a knot1 ) ! ends hang+ d[n 7,fig4 #e74 ,! sob] citiz5 ( ,london 0 dress$ 9 black co>se wooll51 bree*es1 a broad skirt$ d\blet1 a girdle ab\t ! middle1 & a %ort black coat4 ,a broad-brimm$ hat1 ) a great twi/$ hat-b&1 ) a rose at ! end ( x1 complet$ 8 co/ume1 & ! natural hair 0 worn uncov]$ by a wig4 ,james ,,ii4 & ,william ,,iii4 ,!re 7 few novelties 9 civil co/umes dur+ ^! reigns4 ,! petticoat bree*es 7 ex*ang$ = ^? ti$ b5ea? ! knee4 ,! p]iwig became m mon/r\s1 & x 0 ! fa%ion = ! beau to comb 8 wig 9 public j z a mod]n gallant w\ld twirl 8 m\/a*e4 ,g5tlem5 appe>$ 9 little1 l[ hats1 ) a b[ at ! side2 & long coats & wai/coats 7 worn1 ) r[s ( buttons d[n ! front1 bree*es1 mod]ately wide1 rea*+ to ! knee1 close /ock+s1 & high-heel$ %oes1 ) roses or buckles 7,fig4 #ae74 ,! full-bottom$ wig 0 worn by ! le>n$ pr(essions4 ,! broad brims ( ! hats 7 frequ5tly turn$ up on two sides1 & 7 ornam5t$ ) fea!rs or ribbons4 8,to turn up ! brim or flap ( ! hat 0 to #8cock' x2 ! mode foll[+ ! cu/om ( ! ,duke ( ,monm\? 0 call$ #8! ,monm\?' cock40 ,! broad1 fall+ b&s ar\nd ! neck 7 replac$ by small ,g5eva b&s1 simil> to ^? n[ worn by b>ri/]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #dg4 7,fig4 #a73 ,co/ume ( a g5tleman ( ! "t ( ,*>les ,i41 f a contempor>y pr9t4 7,fig4 #b73 ,an exquisite ( #afdf1 f a r>e broadside1 entitl$ 8,! ,picture ( an ,engli% ,antick10 ) all details ( ! co/ume exagg]at$1 pat*es on ! face1 & two love-locks ti$ ) b[s ( ribbon4 7,fig4 #c73 ,head ( ,george1 ,e>l ( ,albem>le1 %[+ ! volum9\s p]iwig ( ! "t ( ,james ,,ii4 7,fig4 #d73 ,a ,r\ndhead1 f a pr9t ( #afdi1 %[+ ! pla9ness & simplicity ( co/ume adopt$ by ! ,puritans4 7,fig4 #e73 ,neckclo? :i* succe$$ ! ruff & b&1 & 0 g5]ally worn by ! c\rti]s dur+ ! reign ( ,*>les ,,ii41 by :om x 0 introduc$ f ,france4 7,figs4 #f1 #g & #h73 8,petticoat bree*es10 ?ree types1 z worn 9 #afef1 #afeh1 & #afei1 f ,holmes's 8,contempor>y ,notebook on ,co/ume10 pres]v$ 9 ! ,briti% ,museum4 7,fig4 #i73 ,head ( ,sir ,?omas ,meautys1 secret>y to ,sir ,francis ,bacon1 %[+ a wav$ love-lock rea*+ to ! elb[4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,k+ ,james ,i4 9 hunt+ co/ume1 f 8,a ,jewell = ,g5trie10 publi%$ 9 #afad4 ,he is %[n we>+ ! /uff$ or 8bomba/$0 bree*es4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,co/ume ( a ,cavali] 9 ! e>ly "p ( ,*>les ,,ii4's reign1 f ,ogilvie's 8,book ( ! ,coronation40 7,fig4 #ab73 ,a %oe 7introduc$ f ,france71 worn by ! c\rti]s ( ,*>les ,,ii41 f a contempor>y "w1 #afgj4 7,fig4 #ac73 ,a boot ) wide tops1 worn 9 #afdf1 f a pr9t ( ! "t4 7,fig4 #ad73 ,a ,jack-boot ( ! "t ( ,william ,,iii41 su* z 0 worn by ! ,cavalry ( ! "t1 f ,meyrick's 8,arms & ,arm\r40 7,fig4 #ae73 ,w9t] co/ume ( a g5tleman ( ! "t ( ,william ,,iii4 ,,female ,,co/umes4 ,james ,i4 ,! female co/ume ( ?is reign pres5ts few v>iations f t 9 use at ! end ( ,elizabe?'s reign4 ,! portrait ( ,anne ( ,d5m>k1 ,que5 ( ,james ,i4 7,pl4 #di1 ,fig4 #a71 9 ! g5]al "* ( ! dress1 resembles t ( ,que5 ,elizabe? pa9t$ by ,holbe94 ,! enorm\s f>?+ale 0 worn ?r\gh\t ?is reign by ! nobility1 ! ruffs & coll>s worn at ?is "t by ! ladies be+ g5]ally /iff5$ ) yell[ />*1 l ^? ( ! g5tleman4 8,! fondness ( ladies = pa9t+ _! faces & expos+ ! bosom 0 sev]ely reprim&$ by ! div9es & satiri/s at ! e>ly "p ( ! #ag? c5tury4 ,:ile a ruff or b& ( immod]ate size /ret*$ =? f ! neck1 ! front ( ! dress 0 cut away imm$iately b5ea? x1 ne>ly to ! wai/1 :i* made ! fa%ion m noticeable1 z all ! o!r "p ( ! bu/ 0 ov]-clo!d1 :ile ! bosom 0 p]fectly b>e40 ,masks 7 worn by ladies on all public occasions1 & x 0 consid]$ a sign ( impropriety to appe> )\t !m 7,fig4 #b74 ,! ruff w5t out ( fa%ion dur+ ?is reign1 because ,mrs4 ,annie ,turn]1 a />*] ( ruffs1 :o 0 execut$ = poison+ ,sir ,?omas ,ov]bury1 wore a />*$ ruff ( ! approv$ col\r at h] execution4 ,*>les ,i4 & ! ,commonweal?4 ,!re 0 little *ange 9 female co/ume at ! beg9n+ ( ?is reign4 ,! ,fr5* hood & f>?+ale 7 /ill worn1 & ! high-cr[n$ hat 0 g5]ally worn by c\ntrywom5 & ! wives ( ! citiz5s 7,figs4 #e & #g71 especially :5 !y belong$ to ! ,puritanical p>ty4 ,9 ! c\rse ( ! reign ( ,*>les1 !re came a *ange 9 female co/ume1 contempor>y ) & z elegant z t :i* took place 9 ! male co/ume4 ,! hood1 ! f>?+ale1 & ! />*$ b&s disappe>$4 ,a good specim5 ( ! new co/ume is giv5 9 ,fig4 #a1 aft] ,holl>4 ,! dress is full1 & falls gracefully ab\t ! body2 ! bodice is tight-fitt+1 & ! sleeves are ri* & full1 b ga!r$ at ! wri/1 & !re is an elegant fall+ coll> edg$ ) lace4 ,! long petticoat 0 g5]ally display$ 9 a c]ta9 measure by ! robe1 :i* 01 at times1 q ga!r$ up at ! wai/4 ,z a matt] ( c\rse1 ! ladies ( ! ,republican p>ty1 foll[+ ! example set by _! m5 folk1 dress$ v sob]ly1 "s ( !m adh]+ to old-fa%ion$ articles ( dress1 su* z ! hood & high-cr[n$ hat4 ,a fa%ion introduc$ 9 ! previ\s reign 0 t ( we>+ pat*es on ! face4 ,fig4 #c gives a curi\s specim5 ( ?is fa%ionable absurdity4 ,x excit$ ! d]ision ( ! satiri/s1 :o repeat$ly decri$ x 9 _! works2 b x cont9u$ 9 fa%ion = a long "t--until ! end ( ! #ag? c5tury4 ,! usual co/ume ( a ,puritan woman is %[n 9 ,fig4 #e4 ,! female co/ume 9 ! lat] ye>s ( ! ,protectorate is illu/rat$ by ,fig4 #f f ! monum5tal effigy ( ,elizabe? ,sa*ev]ell1 #afeg ,a4,d41 9 ,morley ,*ur*1 ,d]by%ire4 ,*>les ,,ii4 ,) ! ,re/oration1 ,engl& ?rew (f ! sob]1 kill-joy aspect t x _h worn1 & ! ,c\rt1 ) its gaiety1 set ! fa%ion 9 a /udi$ neglig5ce & elegant d%abille4 ,! glossy r+lets ( ! ladies1 escap+ f a simple b&eau ( pe>ls1 or adorn$ by a s+le rose1 fell 9 graceful pr(usion ^u b>e1 sn[y necks1 & ! arms 7 b>e to ! elb[4 ,?is 0 c>ri$ to su* an ext5t t a book 0 publi%$ entitl$ 8,a ,j & ,seasonable ,repreh5sion ( ,nak$ ,brea/s & ,%\ld]s10 ) a preface by ,ri*>d ,baxt]4 ,! ri*e/ & brighte/ mat]ials 7 employ$ = ! dresses & petticoats4 ,! co/ume ( ?is p]iod is v well kn[n f ! portraits ( ! ladies ( ! ,c\rt by ,sir ,pet] ,lely 7see ,pl4 #di1 ,fig4 #b74 ,james ,,ii4 & ,william ,,iii4 ,!re 0 no *ange 9 female co/ume dur+ ! %ort & un=tunate reign ( ,james1 b :5 ,william & ,m>y asc5d$ ! ?rone1 !y & _! ent\rage br\ght ) !m1 z might be expect$1 a numb] ( ,dut* fa%ions4 ,! v l[-neck$ dresses 7 replac$ by ^? ) a =mal /oma*]4 ,! elegant full sleeve gave place to a tight "o1 ) a cuff above ! elb[1 f :i* fell a pr(usion ( lace 9 ! =m ( ruffles4 ,! hair1 :i* _h be5 all[$ to hang loose 9 r+lets1 0 n[ 8put up0 & comb$ f ! =ehead l a ris+ bill[1 & surm\nt$ by piles ( ribbons & lace4 ,?is 0 call$ ! 8commode10 & 0 sometimes cov]$ by a lace sc>f or veil t /ream$ d[n ea* side ( ! coiffure4 ,/iff /ays1 tightly lac$ ov] ! /oma*] & v long 9 ! wai/1 became fa%ionable1 s t a lady's body1 f ! %\ld] to ! hips1 look$ l ! lett] ,v4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #dh4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a lady ( ! ,c\rt ( ,*>les ,i4 7#afdc71 aft] ! engrav] ,holl>1 we>+ a lace coll> on a l[ cut neck4 ,! robe is n drap$1 & ! hair is comb$ tightly back f ! =ehead & ga!r$ 9 close rolls beh9d1 be+ all[$ to fl[ freely at ! sides4 7,fig4 #b73 ,a lady we>+ a mask ( ! "t ( ,james ,i41 f a contempor>y pr9t4 ,%e holds a fold+ bone fan 9 h] "r h&1 & atta*$ to h] girdle1 hang+ ov] ! f>?+ale1 are a look+ glass1 a ball-%ap$ pom&] 7conta9+ p]fumes7 ) tassels1 & a toilet case1 probably ( silv]4 ,9 ! ,c\rt ( ,james ,i41 :i* 0 v dissolute1 ! mask 0 worn on all public occasions by ladies2 & ^? :o appe>$ )\t x 7 call$ 8b>e-fac$40 7,fig4 #c73 ,a lady we>+ pat*es1 f a woodcut 9 ,bulw]'s 8,artificial ,*angel+10 #afej4 ,! cu/om ( pat*+ 0 introduc$ 9 ! reign ( ,james ,i4 ,a coa*1 ) a coa*man & two horses1 ) po/illions1 appe>s on h] =ehead2 bo? sides ( h] face h cresc5ts ^u !m2 a /> is on "o side ( h] m\?1 & a pla9 circul> pat* on h] *94 7,fig4 #d73 ,a lady ( ,*>les ,i4's reign1 %[+ ! arrangem5t ( ! hair1 ) a coif cov]+ ! head4 7,f a tomb 9 ,morley ,*ur*1 ,d]by%ire47 7,fig4 #e73 ,an ,engli% tradesman's wife1 #afdi1 aft] ,holl>4 7,fig4 #f73 ,dress ( an eld]ly lady ( ! middle class dur+ ! ,protectorate4 ,%e we>s a close hood & b&1 ) ample g[n4 7,f ! effigy ( ,elizabe? ,sa*ev]ell1 #afeg1 9 ,morley ,*ur*1 ,d]by%ire47 7,fig4 #g73 ,a ,puritan woman1 #afdf1 f a contempor>y pr9t4 7,fig4 #h73 ,a 8,t[]0 head-dress1 also kn[n z a 8,commode10 z worn at ! close ( ! #ag? c5tury4 ,x consi/$ ( r[s ( lace /uck bolt upright ov] ! =ehead1 ris+ "o above ! o!r1 =m+ a k9d ( pyramid1 ) /ream+ lappets hang+ ov] ! %\ld]s f ! head4 ,! hair 0 comb$ upw>ds to =m a support to ! /ructure4 7,f a contempor>y pr9t47 7,fig4 #i73 ,side view ( a simil> head-dress1 ( "o 8/orey0 only1 back$ by d>k col\r$ ribbons1 ! hair at ! front & sides be+ arrang$ 9 %ort1 close curls4 7,f a contempor>y pr9t47 7,fig4 #aj73 ,head ( a lady ( ! e>ly "t ( ,*>les ,,ii41 %[+ ! me?od ( dress+ ! hair ) a 8=etop0 or tuft ( hair turn$ up f ! =ehead4 ,?is fa%ion1 be+ introduc$ by ,ca!r9e ( ,braganza1 0 probably ,portuguese4 7,f a pr9t 9 ! ,pepysian ,libr>y47 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #di4 7,fig4 #a73 ,anne ( ,d5m>k1 ,que5 ( ,james ,i4 7f a contempor>y portrait74 ,?is co/ume diff]s 9 no way f t worn at ! ,c\rt at ! end ( ,elizabe?'s reign4 ,! f>?+ale1 or enorm\s hoop$ petticoat1 project$ m at ! sides ?an 9 front4 ,x 0 absolutely flat on ! top1 ) a s]ies ( radiat+ pleats ^u ! surface ( x4 ,! exquisite design 9 ne$lework ^u ! robe1 ) gems work$ into ! patt]n1 is %[n cle>ly 9 ! illu/ration4 ,! ruff1 compos$ ( ri* lace & ne$lework1 /ret*es back f ! neck1 & ! front ( ! dress is cut v l[4 ,! ,que5 holds a fea!r$ fan & a book 9 h] h&s4 7,fig4 #b73 ,a lady ( ! ,c\rt ( ,*>les ,,ii4 7f a contempor>y portrait74 ,!re is ! greate/ contra/ betwe5 ! co/ume %[n 9 ,fig4 #a & ?is1 ! =m] be+ mo/ uncom=table & artificial4 ,fig4 #b %[s ! prevail+ "* ( ! female co/ume ( ?is reign--unconf9$ ease4 8,! r+lets hang loosely ^u ! expos$ neck1 :i* is q innoc5t ( ! transp>5t lawn ( ! b& or ! p>tlet4 ,! g[n is /rik+ by its v simplicity1 ! sleeves be+ m]ely loop$ mat]ial cov]+ ! und]sleeves ( lawn40 ,,arms ,,& ,,arm\r4 7,to end ( ,,*>les ,,ii47 ,james ,i4 ,dur+ ! reign ( ,elizabe? ! decay ( ! use ( arm\r _h set 9 on acc\nt ( ! enorm\s weight & unwieldly nature ( ! h>ness4 ,x prev5t$ free action1 &1 inde$1 s]i\sly crippl$ ! physical frames ( _m ( ! we>]s4 ,! increas+ use ( fire arms also t5d$ to ha/5 ! disuse ( arm\r1 = x became difficult to make plates t w\ld be suffici5tly /rong to oppose a bullet1 unless ! arm\r 7 made ( great ?ickness4 ,by ! end ( ! reign ( ,james ,i4 its use _h be5 s modifi$ t ! arm\r ( ! heavie/ cavalry t]m9at$ at ! knees4 ,sometimes ! arms 7 encas$ 9 arm\r1 & occasionally complete arm\r 0 worn by ! comm&]s4 ,a contempor>y engrav+ ( ,pr9ce ,h5ry ( ,wales1 ! elde/ son ( ,james ,i4 7,pl4 #ej1 ,fig4 #a71 %[s ! nature & ext5t ( ! arm\r usually worn4 ,?r\gh ! int]c\rse ) ,spa91 ! cavalry soldi] 0 (t5 t]m$ a cavali] in/ead ( lanc]4 ,! infantry consi/$ ( pikem51 arm$ ) pikes or spe>s #ah;ft4 long1 & muskete]s1 arm$ ) fire arms4 ,be=e ?is reign1 on acc\nt ( _! weight1 a soldi] c>ry+ a fire arm also bore a =k$ re/ 9 :i* to place ! musket :5 fir+ x2 b at ?is "t ! caliv] or mat*lock1 t c\ld be fir$ )\t a re/1 came into use g5]ally4 ,! muskete]s 7 arm$ ) long1 rapi]-l blades 7= _! p]sonal def5ce71 nicknam$ a 8sweyne's fea!r0 or a 8hog's bri/le0 7,fig4 #i74 ,*>les ,i4 & ! ,commonweal?4 ,dur+ ! /ruggle betwe5 ,k+ & p1 ! arm\r consi/$1 at ! mo/1 ( helmet1 backplate & brea/plate1 or cuirass1 ) tassets4 ,9 fact1 ! only arm\r worn by _m noblem5 & g5tlem5 0 a cuirass ov] a buff lea!r coat1 ) a helmet or hat to cov] ! head2 & "s entire regim5ts ( cavalry 7 rais$1 attir$ 9 ?is fa%ion & nam$ 8,cuirassi]s40 ,!y 7 arm$ ) a good sword1 /iff1 cutt+1 & %>p-po9t$1 & pi/ols hang+ at ! saddle4 ,! lanc]s c>ri$ a pike-%ap$ lance1 ab\t #ah;ft4 long1 a sword simil> to t c>ri$ by ! cuirassi]s1 & "o or two pi/ols4 ,"o class ( cavalry 0 call$ dragoons1 because !y 7 arm$ ) a fire arm %ort] ?an t 9 g5]al use1 call$ a 8dragon40 ,! full l5g? portrait ( ,sir ,d5n] ,/rutt1 #afda 7,fig4 #aj7 f 8 tomb 9 ,:alley ,*ur*1 ,essex1 well illu/rates ! arm\r ( ! p]iod z worn by (fic]s 9 ! field4 ,! upp] "p ( ! body is completely arm$1 b ! l[] "p is n s1 z ! back ( ! figure & ! ?ighs1 :i* w\ld1 9 fact1 be def5d$ by ! position ( rid+1 c\ld ne$ no o!r protection 9 ! field4 ,! front ( ! ?igh is cov]$1 & ! entire leg bel[ ! knee4 ,a broad sword-belt passes across ! *e/1 & ! pla9 fa%ionable coll> & long hair repose peacefully on ! arm$ %\ld]s4 ,"s (fic]s wore helmets completely cov]+ ! head 7,fig4 #h71 b (t5 helmets ( ! =m %[n 9 ,fig4 #e 7 9 use4 ,flexible e>-pieces cov]$ ! *eeks1 & ov]lapp+ plates 7lob/]-tail$7 cov]$ ! back ( ! neck4 ,! co/ume ( a ,g5]al ( ! ,p>liam5t>y ,army 7,"l ,fairfax1 ,g5]al = ! ,c\nty ( ,york7 is %[n 9 ,fig4 #b1 :]e ! only articles ( arm\r he we>s appe> to be ! cuirass & gauntlets1 ! =m] ov] a buff coat4 ,8 bree*es also appe> to be ( buff lea!r1 & l>ge boots1 ) wide tops1 encase 8 feet & legs4 ,! mod]n fire-lock 0 inv5t$ ab\t ?is "t1 & a sp>k be+ /ruck by a piece ( /eel f a fl9t1 s t ! sp>k fell ^u ! p[d] 9 ! pan4 ,*>les ,,ii4 ,! milit>y co/ume ( ?is reign 0 ne>ly t worn 9 ! ,civil ,w>s4 ,! def5sive arm\r ( ! cavalry consi/$ ( 8a back1 brea/1 & pot 7helmet71 ! two latt] to be pi/ol pro(40 ,z (f5sive arms !y c>ri$ a sword & case ( pi/ols ) b>rels n "u #ad in*es 9 l5g?4 ,! muskete]s 7 ord]$ to c>ry a musket ) a b>rel n "u ?ree feet 9 l5g?1 a coll> ( b&oli]s1 & a sword4 ,dur+ ?is reign ! bayonet 0 fir/ inv5t$1 at ,bayonne1 & 0 made l a dagg]1 ) a r\nd wood5 hilt1 screw$ or m]ely /uck into ! muzzle ( ! gun4 ,x is n[ kn[n z a 8plug bayonet40 ,! gun c\ld n be fir$ :ile ! bayonet 0 fix$ )\t ! loss ( ! bayonet also4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ej4 7,fig4 #a73 ,h5ry1 ,pr9ce ( ,wales1 elde/ son ( ,james ,i4 7f ,drayton's 8,polyolbion071 %[+ ! am\nt ( arm\r t 0 g5]ally worn4 ,! ,pr9ce we>s only arm\r to ! wai/1 ) l>ge1 bomba/$ trunk hose1 & is repres5t$ z balanc+ a pike4 7,fig4 #b73 ,co/ume1 ) arm\r ( 8,f]d9&1 ,"l ,fairfax1 ! fa!r ( ! m celebrat$ ,p>liam5t>y ,g5]al1 :o also s]v$ 9 ! same cause1 & 0 appo9t$ ,g5]al = ! ,c\nty ( ,york40 ,he we>s z arm\r only ! cuirass & gauntlets4 7,figs4 #c & #d73 ,plug bayonets 7! e>lie/ =m71 inv5t$ at ,bayonne2 =m]ly 9 ! ,meyrick collection4 7,fig4 #e73 ,s+le-b>r$ helmet ) 8lob/]-tail0 neck piece & e>-pieces1 usually worn by dragoons4 7,fig4 #f73 ,helmet ) triple b>s :i* protect ! face1 z worn by h>quebussi]s 9 #afde4 7,fig4 #g73 ,pot helmet or op5 head-piece1 ) *eeks1 & a flut$ ornam5t ov] ! top1 ( ! "t ( ,cromwell4 7,fig4 #h73 ,close helmet ( ! "t ( ,*>les ,i41 ) e>-pieces & a p]=at$ vizor :i* may be drawn d[n to cov] ! face4 7,fig4 #i73 ,a 8sweyne's fea!r0 or 8hog's bri/le10 a k9d ( rapi]1 c>ri$ by ! muskete] = 8 def5ce4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,effigy ( ,sir ,d5n] ,/rutt1 #afda1 f 8 tomb 9 ,:atley ,*ur*1 ,essex1 illu/rat+ ! arm\r ( ! p]iod z worn by (fic]s 9 ! field4 7,fig4 #aa73 ,a pikeman ( ! "t ( ,james ,i4 7f a broadside 9 ! possession ( ! ,society ( ,antiqu>ies74 ,he we>s a morion-%ap$ helmet ) plumes1 back & brea/ plates rea*+ to ! wai/1 ) two broad tassets fa/5$ to ! brea/ plate ov] padd$ knee bree*es4 ,he is arm$ ) a long pike & sword4 7,fig4 #ab73 ,a muskete] ( ! "t ( ,james ,i4 7f ! same s\rce z ,fig4 #aa74 ,muskete]s at fir/ wore morions on ! head1 b1 lat] on1 l>ge hats ) plumes 7 adopt$4 ,?is "o is repres5t$ z we>+ only back & brea/ plates1 & he is arm$ ) a musket & a sword4 ,9 8 "r h& he c>ries a re/ = 8 musket1 & slung ov] 8 %\ld] he we>s a b&oli] or set ( lea!r cases1 9 ea* ( :i* a complete *ange ( p[d] = a musket 0 c>ri$1 to facilitate ! load+ ( ! piece4 ,?is 0 us$ until ! end ( ! #ag? c5tury1 :5 ! c>tridge-box came into use4 ,,anne1 ,,george ,i4 ,,& ,,george ,,ii4 ,,male ,,co/umes4 ,! reign ( ,anne 7a ,/u>t71 is tak5 ) ^? ( ! e>ly ,hanov]ians1 z ! co/umes ( ! ?ree reigns 7 s simil>4 ,anne & ,george ,i4 ,) ! =m] ( ^! reigns1 all ! *ivalric co/ume except ! sword disappe>$1 ! latt] /ill complet+ ! full dress ( ! ,c\rt ( ,/4 ,james'4 ,plan*1 9 8 8,hi/ory ( ,briti% ,co/ume10 v t]sely describes ! co/ume ( ! g5tlem5 ( ^! reigns3-- 8,squ>e-cut coats & long-flapp$ wai/coats ) pockets 9 !m1 ! latt] meet+ ! /ock+s1 /ill drawn up ov] ! knee s high z to entirely conceal ! bree*es1 b g>t]$ bel[ x2 l>ge hang+ cuffs & lace ruffles2 ! skirts ( ! coats /iff5$ out ) wire or buckram1 f betwe5 :i* peep$ ! hilt ( ! sword1 depriv$ ( ! broad & spl5did belt 9 :i* x swung 9 ! prec$+ reigns2 blue or sc>let silk /ock+s1 ) gold or silv] cloaks2 lace neckclo?s2 squ>e-to$1 %ort-qu>t]$ %oes1 ) high r$ heels & small buckles2 v long & =mally curl$ p]ukes1 black rid+-wigs1 bag-wigs & nightcap-wigs2 small ?ree-corn]$ hats lac$ ) gold or silv] galloon1 & sometimes trimm$ ) fea!rs1 comprise ! habit ( ! nobleman & g5tleman dur+ ! reigns ( ,que5 ,anne & ,george ,i40 ,! l>ge-skirt$ coat is really ! precursor ( ! mod]n frock-coat4 ,full-bottom$ wigs 7 v exp5sive to ! we>]1 = 9 a wig-mak]'s bill1 dat$ ,decemb] #ag?1 #agab1 we f9d an item z foll[s3--8,= a long1 full-bottom$ p]iwig1 #ab3aj3j40 ,_m int]e/+ peeps are giv5 u at ! co/ume ( ! "t f ! adv]tisem5ts :i* appe>$ 9 ! public pap]s ( ! losses or robb]y ( clo!s4 ,9 #agad a g5tleman adv]tis$ t he 0 robb$ ( 8 w>drobe1 consi/+ ( 8a sc>let clo? suit1 lac$ ) broad gold lace1 l9$ & fac$ ) blue1 a f9e c9namon clo? suit ) plate buttons1 ! wai/coat fr+$ ) a silk fr+e ( ! same col\r2 & a ri* yell[ fl[]$ sat9 morn+-g[n l9$ ) a *]ry-col\r$ sat91 ) a pocket on ! "r side40 ,george ,i4 0 n incl9$ to *anges 9 dress1 = he 0 by no means "y :5 he succe$$ to ! ?rone4 ,inde$1 x is said t f ! days ( ,*>les ,,ii4 till ! accession ( ,george ,,iii4 ! ,c\rt gave little enc\ragem5t to dress4 ,! beau ( #agbg is describ$ z dress$ 9 8a f9e l95 %irt1 ! ruffles & bosom ( ,me*l9 lace1 a small wig ) an enorm\s queue or tail1 8 coat well g>ni%$ ) lace1 black velvet bree*es1 r$ heels to 8 %oes & gold clocks to 8 /ock+s1 8 hat b5ea? 8 arm1 a sword by 8 side1 & himself well sc5t$40 ,!re 7 _m m9or *anges 9 articles ( dress1 su* z ! introduction ( ! ,ramilies cock ( ! hat 7,fig4 #c7 soon aft] ! battle ( ,ramilies1 & a wig also took its "n f ! same ev5t4 ,x 0 inv5t$ by an ent]pris+ wig-mak]1 & _h ! tail plait$ to ! ta/e ( ! ,swiss female peasant1 hav+ a black tie at ! top & ano!r at ! bottom4 ,x is n fl[+ at ! sides1 b consi/s ( a bu%y heap ( well-p[d]$ hair 7,fig4 #c74 ,! fa%ion ( 8cock+0 ! hat or turn+ up ! brim1 _h _m *anges1 & by ! cock ( ! hat1 ! occupation ( ! man :o wore x 0 kn[n2 & x v>i$ f ! mode/ broad brim ( ! cl]gy & c\ntrym5 to ! slightly upturn$ hat ( ! c\ntry g5tleman or citiz54 ,a l>ge hat1 call$ ! ,kev5hull] hat1 ( extravagant proportions1 0 worn 7,fig4 #g71 & x 0 g5]ally patronis$ by milit>y m5 or bullies ab\t t[n aft] ! type ( ! ,mohocks1 ,bloods1 c4 ,9 ! reign ( ,george ,,ii4 !re 0 no alt]ation 9 ! g5]al "* ( male co/umes4 ,! pigtail appe>$ 9 #agde1 & "s "y m5 wore _! own hair1 dress$ & p[d]$1 ab\t #agea4 ,! co/ume ( ! ord9>y classes dur+ ^! reigns 0 v simple1 & consi/$ ( a pla9 coat1 button$ up ! front1 a long wai/coat rea*+ to ! knees1 bo? hav+ capaci\s pockets ) great ov]lapp+ flaps1 pla9 bob 7%ort & r\nd7 wigs1 hats slightly turn$ up1 & high qu>t]$ %oes4 ,! works ( ,hog>? af=d abundant examples ( ! co/umes ( ! reign ( ,george ,,ii4 ,?anks to 8 skilful p5cil we are famili> ) ! squ>e-cut coats1 flapp$ wai/coats & knee bree*es ( ! fir/ half ( ! #ah? c5tury4 ,! use ( muffs by m5 may be trac$ back to ! exquisites ( ,l\is ,,xiv41 & 7 z commonly c>ri$ by m5 z by wom54 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ea4 7,fig #a73 ,co/ume ( a g5tleman ( ! "t ( ,que5 ,anne & ,george ,i4 7,fig4 #b73 ,a cl]gyman's hat 7#agde71 f ,hog>?4 7,fig4 #c73 ,a fa%ionable cock1 z worn by m]*ants & well-to-d ,london]s1 kn[n z ! ,ramilies cock1 ) ! ,ramilies wig4 7,fig4 #d73 ,co/ume ( a g5tleman ( ! "t ( ,george ,i4 7#agbj74 7,fig4 #e73 ,co/ume ( a g5tleman ( ! "t ( ,george ,,ii41 f 8,! ,s*ool ( ,v5us1 or ! ,lady's ,miscellany10 #agci4 ,he we>s a small wig & hat1 & a long wide-skirt$ coat4 7,fig4 #f73 ,a pla9 & decisively cock$ hat1 :i* 0 9 fa%ion 9 #agde1 & a bag-wig b5ea? x4 7,fig4 #g73 ,! ,kev5hull] hat1 ( extravagant proportions1 z worn by milit>y m51 or bullies ab\t t[n4 7,fig4 #h73 ,co/ume ( a g5tleman1 f a pr9t dat$ #agdd4 ,,female ,,co/umes4 ,at ,anne's accession little *ange 0 made 9 ! co/umes ( ladies1 z ! ,que5 0 ( too retir+ a disposition to introduce any orig9ality 9 t direction4 ,9 #agaa ,addison1 9 ! 8,spectator10 devot$ a :ole numb] to ! subject ( ladies' head-dress1 comm5c+ ) a decl>ation 8t !re is n s v>iable a ?+ 9 nature10 add+1 8)9 my own memory ,i h kn[n x rise & fall ab\t #cj degrees4 ,ab\t t5 ye>s ago x %ot up to a v great height1 insomu* t ! female "p ( our species 7 mu* tall] ?an ! m50 7allusion to ! ,commode74 8,i rememb] sev]al ladies t 7 once v ne> sev5 feet high1 & at pres5t want "s in*es ( five feet40 ,aft] ab\t fifte5 ye>s ! high ,commode aga9 came into fa%ion1 b ! />tl+ novelty 0 ! hoop-petticoat4 ,x wid5$ gradually f ! wai/ to ! gr\nd1 ! g[n be+ loop$ up r\nd ! body 9 front & fall+ 9 loose folds beh9d 7,pl4 #eb1 ,fig4 #a474 ,a writ] ( ! "t says ( ?is fa%ion3 8,no?+ c be imag9$ m unnatural1 &1 consequ5tly1 less agreeable4 ,:5 a sl5d] woman /&s ^u a basis s inord9ately wide1 %e resembles a funnel1 a figure ( no great elegancy40 ,ab\t ?is "t1 ladies1 p>ticul>ly 9 _! rid+ co/umes1 imitat$ ! co/umes ( ! m51 we>+ a cock$ beav] hat & fea!rs1 hair curl$ & p[d]$ & ti$ l a man's1 coat & wai/coat l a man1 ) a petticoat bel[ ! wai/4 ,sir ,rog] de ,cov]ley1 :5 look+ at a "y sport+ lady1 0 ab\t to address h] z 8,sir10 until he ca/ 8 eye l[] & saw h] petticoat4 ,9 contra/ ) ! extravagance %[n 9 ! quantity & quality ( ! mat]ials us$ = ladies' dresses1 h[ *eaply ! poor c\ld dress at ?is "t may be ga!r$ f an entry 9 "s p>i% acc\nts 9 ,norfolk 9 #agai3 8,paid = clad+ ( ! ,wid[ ,b]n>d ) a g[n1 petticoat1 bodice1 hose1 %oes1 apron & /oma*]1 #ahs4 #f;d40 ,9 ! "t ( ,george ,i4 !re 7 few innovations 9 fa%ion set by ! ,c\rt4 ,9 ! reign ( ,george ,,ii4 ! ladies /ill lac$ z tightly1 & _! hoops 7 z ugly & inconv5i5t z ev]2 b g5]ally speak+1 e lady dress$ only z pleas$ h]self1 s t !re 0 an enorm\s v>iety ( co/umes worn at all public assemblies4 ,at ! close ( ?is reign !re 0 a great rage = pa/oral plays & ,c\rt masques1 9 :i* ! ladies ( ! ,c\rt & ! noblem5 appe>$ z c\ntry-folk1 %eph]ds1 %eph]desses1 milkmaids1 c4 ,_! g>m5ts 7 cut 9 a simple /yle aft] ! *>act]s :om !y repres5t$1 b !y 7 ( v co/ly mat]ials1 ) diamonds & o!r preci\s /ones z ornam5ts4 ,ladies (t5 wore :ite musl9 aprons simil> to t ( a mod]n waitress1 & x is said t ,beau ,na%1 ! ,ma/] ( ! ,c]emonies1 & 8,k+ ( ,ba?10 dislik$ !m s mu* at social ga!r+s1 t he took "o (f a ,du*ess at "o ( ! assemblies1 & ?rew x among ! wait+ wom54 ,! fa%ions 9 dress *ang$ s rapidly1 h[ev]1 & 7 s num]\s1 t x is impossible to record all ! v>iations ( ! times4 ,_! div]sity & v>iety w be se5 by look+ at any ( ! pr9ts record+ social ev5ts1 :i* are f\nd 9 our public collections & are reproduc$ 9 ! magaz9es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #eb4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a lady ) a v tightly lac$ bodice & hoop petticoat1 9 fa%ion ab\t #agah4 7,fig4 #b73 ,a lady 9 ! fa%ion ( #agee1 %[+ a lat] developm5t ( ! hoop petticoat1 :51 ow+ to ! torr5t ( invectives levell$ at x1 x became m con/rict$ 9 its dim5sions4 ,9 ?is =m x mu* resembles ! f>?+ale ( ,elizabe?'s "t4 7,fig4 #c73 ,hood$ head-dress worn 9 #agbg2 a complete envelope = ! head1 commonly us$ 9 rid+ & travell+1 z well z :5 walk+ 9 ! p>ks4 ,x 0 call$ a ,ni?isdale1 because :5 ,"l ,ni?isdale escap$ f ! ,t[] dress$ z a woman1 by ! assi/ance ( 8 devot$ wife1 8 features 7 conceal$ 9 a hood l ?is4 7,fig4 #d73 ,hat ( ! milk-maid type1 su* z 0 affect$ by ladies 9 #agbg 7f ! 8,musical ,ent]ta9]074 7,fig4 #e73 ,high-heel$ & small-po9t$ %oe ( embroid]$ silk1 ) a ?9 sole ( lea!r su* z 0 worn by ! lady 9 ,fig4 #g4 7,fig4 #f73 ,! clog = ! %oe se5 9 ,fig4 #e is made ( lea!r1 ornam5t$ by col\r$ silk ?reads work$ ) a ne$le4 ,figs4 #e & #f are f ,hone's 8,ev]yday ,book40 7,fig4 #g73 ,a good specim5 ( ! fa%ion 9 ! hoop petticoat1 f a curi\s pr9t call$ ! 8,review10 publi%$ ab\t #agdj4 ,! hoop1 :i* 0 =m$ ( :alebone1 /ret*es ! dress on all sides1 s t x rises f ! gr\nd1 & all[s ! small-po9t$1 high-heel$ %oes to be se54 ,! we>] _h to d\ble ! hoop r\nd 9 front1 or lift$ x up on ea* side :5 %e ent]$ a door or c>riage1 &1 :5 seat$1 %e occupi$ ! space usually allott$ = half a doz5 ( ! male sex4 7,all ! above are f contempor>y engrav+s47 ,,george ,,iii4 ,,male ,,co/umes4 ,k+ ,george ,,iii4 0 v "y :5 he came to ! ?rone1 & he 0 retir+ & mode/ 9 8 p]sonal habits1 s t he did n set ! fa%ion 9 any extravagant direction4 ,! nobility & g5try />t$ all t 0 new 9 ! fa%ions )\t wait+ = ! royal sanction to _! flippancies & extravagances4 ,bo? ladies & g5tlem5 dress$ simply at fir/1 ,fig4 #a be+ ! type ( ! male co/ume ( ! "t4 ,x 0 only rem>kable = ! great quantity ( lace ) :i* ! coat & wai/coat 7 trimm$4 ,! dress ( ! c\ntryman at ?is "t 0 conspicu\s = its 8bagg9ess40 ,! g>m5ts 7 full & easy1 ! natural hair 0 worn2 a loosely-twi/$ neckclo?1 enorm\s hat1 & easy %oes complet$ a dress1 :i* 80 rem>kable z fitt+ only :]e x t\*$40 ,at ! comm5cem5t ( ! reign1 m5's hats 7 worn ) v wide brims 7ab\t #f in*es wide71 & cock$ 9 v>i\s /yles accord+ to ! pr(ession ( ! we>]4 ,a fav\rite cock$ hat 0 ! ,niv]nois4 ,x 0 v small1 ) l>ge flaps1 fa/5$ up to ! %all[ cr[n by hooks & eyes4 ,! corn] 9 front 0 sp\t-%ap$1 & /iff5$ out by wire4 ,gold-lac$ hats 7 g5]ally worn aga9 9 #agge1 because ! we>]s ?\ght t !y gave !m a milit>y & di/+ui%$ appe>ance1 & x is said t _m m5 wore !m to escape ! att5tions ( ! press gang1 t 7 rem>kably active ab\t ?is "t4 ,9 #aggb a new fa%ion 0 introduc$ by "y g5tlem5 :o _h be5 travell+ 9 ,italy4 ,!y =m$ !mselves into ! ,macc>oni ,club1 :i* 0 int5d$ z a rival to ! ,beef/eak ,club1 & di/+ui%$ !mselves by a mo/ extravagant & ecc5tric co/ume4 ,! new-fa%ion$ d&y 0 kn[n z a ,macc>oni 7,figs4 #b & #c74 ,8 hair 0 dress$ into an enorm\s t\pe1 ) l>ge curls at ! sides1 :ile beh9d x 0 ga!r$ & ti$ up into an enorm\s club or knot1 t re/$ on ! back ( ! neck4 ,^u ?is1 a v small hat 0 (t5 worn 7,fig4 #c74 ,a full1 :ite h&k]*ief 0 ti$ 9 a l>ge b[ r\nd ! neck4 ,bo? coat & wai/coat 7 %ort5$1 & 7 edg$ ) lace or braid4 ,! g>m5ts 7 decorat$ ) ! we>]'s initials1 pictures ( w9dmills1 horsem51 h\nds1 c41 %[+ to :at ext5t a ridicul\s fa%ion c be c>ri$4 ,two wat*es 7 worn1 "o 9 ea* wai/coat pocket1 f :i* hung l>ge bun*es ( seals4 ,silk /ock+s1 & small %oes ) diamond buckles1 complet$ ! co/ume1 :i*1 h[ev]1 rema9$ 9 fa%ion only "o season4 ,ab\t ! middle ( ! reign ( ,george ,,iii41 ! squ>e-cut coat & ! long-flapp$ wai/coat ( ! ?ree prec$+ reigns und]w5t an alt]ation4 ,! /iff5+ 0 tak5 out ( ! skirts1 ! wai/s 7 %ort5$1 & ! cut ( ! pres5t ,c\rt suit introduc$4 ,clo? became ! g5]al mat]ial = ! coat1 & velvet1 silk1 sat91 & embroid]y1 7 res]v$ = ,c\rt dress or wai/coats & bree*es only4 ,! /ock+s 7 worn "u ! bree*es1 & %oes _h l>ge buckles4 ,! lace cravat 0 ab&on$ 9 #agce1 & a black ribbon1 worn ar\nd ! neck1 0 ti$ 9 a l>ge b[ 9 front4 ,:ite cambric /ocks1 buckl$ beh9d1 succe$$ ^!1 & !n foll[$ musl9 cravats4 ,r\nd hats began to be worn 9 ! morn+s1 & %ortly aft] ?is "t ! ,fr5* ,revolution 9 #aghi complet$ ! d[nfall ( ! ?ree-corn]$ hat on bo? sides ( ! ,*annel4 ,a flat1 fold+1 cresc5t-%ap$ beav]1 /ill call$ a cock$ hat1 di/+ui%$ ! beaux at ! !atre1 & ! *apeau-de-bras1 a small triangul> silk article1 0 slipp$ "u ! arm ( ! c\rti]4 ,! orig9al ?ree-corn]$ hat rema9s 9 ! head-dress ( ,/ate coa*m5 ( ,royal & noble families1 & ( ! ,"l ,mayor ( ,london1 :ile ! *apeau-de-bras is /ill worn z "p ( ! ,c\rt dress4 ,! ,fr5* ,revolution also affect$ ! wig4 ,x _h1 dur+ ! latt] half ( ! #ah? c5tury1 become small] & small]1 & ! natural hair 0 pla/]$ & p[d]$ till x 01 at la/1 z ugly z a wig4 ,?is fa%ion rema9s 9 ! pres5t day 9 ! p[d]$ hair ( footm5 9 full dress4 ,ab\t #agic1 ,fr5* fa%ions1 copi$ f ! co/umes ( ! lead]s ( ! ,revolution1 became v mu* ! vogue 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,a high sug>-loaf hat cov]$ ! head1 & ! fl[+ hair 0 p[d]$2 a frill$ %irt1 a :ite /rip$ wai/coat1 a loose cravat ( :ite cambric ti$ 9 a l>ge b[1 7 worn1 & a long gre5 coat cov]$ ! upp] "p ( ! body4 ,! bree*es 7 tight1 & rea*$ to ! ankle1 be+ button$ f ! bottom1 up ! sides to ! middle ( ! ?igh1 & l[ top-boots 7 worn4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ! reign1 ! %irt coll> appe>$1 & ! ruffle vani%$4 ,! coat 0 made ) lapels & ) a tail cut squ>e 9 front above ! hips1 l ! mod]n dress-coat4 ,! wai/coat 0 cut ridicul\sly %ort1 & pantaloons & ,hessian boots 7 introduc$ ab\t ! same "t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ec4 7,fig4 #a73 ,co/ume ( a g5tleman at ! comm5cem5t ( ! reign ( ,george ,,iii4 ,x is rem>kable only = ! extra quantity ( lace ) :i* x is decorat$1 & ! small black cravat :i* he we>s4 7,fig4 #b73 ,side view ( head-dress ( a ,macc>oni1 %[+ 7#a7 ! height to :i* ! hair 0 rais$ & pla/]$1 7#b7 ! r[ ( curls ar\nd x1 & 7#c7 ! l>ge 8club0 ti$ ) a broad ribbon4 7,fig4 #c73 ,complete co/ume ( a ,macc>oni 7#aggb7 %[+ a diff]5t treatm5t ( ! hair f t 9 ,fig4 #b1 ! ridicul\sly small hat1 & ! ornam5t$ coat are also %[n4 7,fig4 #d73 ,a hat ( ! /yle worn 9 #aghf4 7,fig4 #e73 ,! la/ =m ( ! cock$ hat4 ,bo? ,figs4 #d & #e may be tak5 z specim5s ( ! latt] days ( ! wig1 8l>ge curls1 ties & bob1 end+ 9 a s+le pigtail40 7,fig4 #f73 ,fa%ionable rid+ dress 9 #aghf4 ,! co/ume consi/s ( a broad brimm$ hat ) b& & buckle1 p[d]$ wig & pigtail1 a long-tail$ coat ) l>ge buttons1 tight bucksk9 bree*es button$ at ! knee1 & high boots4 7,fig4 #g73 ,a hat ( ! newe/ fa%ion ( #agib1 gaily decorat$ ) gold /r+s & tassels4 ,! natural hair is worn p[d]$1 & ! high coat coll> is v *>act]i/ic ( ! "t4 7,all ! above are f contempor>y pr9ts47 ,,female ,,co/umes4 ,bo? ,george ,,iii4 & 8 wife 7 decor\s & retir+ 9 _! habits1 & dur+ _! reign ! fa%ions 7 />t$ & ma9ta9$ by ! nobility & g5try ( _! ,c\rt4 ,! latt] 8did n wait = ! royal sanction to _! flippancies1 & _! ta/e or want ( ta/e ran riot dur+ ?is reign to an ext5t t equall$ ! absurdities ( any previ\s p]iod1 & :i* makes ! hi/ory ( fa%ion dur+ t "t m v>i$ ?an t ( any simil> l5g? ( "t40 ,at ! comm5cem5t ( ! reign1 ladies' dresses 7 g5]ally simple en\gh2 b ab\t #agfc ! fa%ion came ov] f ,france ( dress+ ! hair by curl+ & crisp+ x1 & rais+ x by add+ pomatum1 ^u a f\ndation ( 8_m a good p\nd ( wool10 into su* an erection 8t my lady is dress$ = ?ree mon?s at lea/1 dur+ :i* "t x is n 9 h] p[] to comb h] head40 ,s enorm\s 7 ^! head-dresses1 t a satiri/ said3 8,our f9e ladies rem9d me ( an apple /uck on ! po9t ( a small skew]40 ,a sign ( ! times 0 ! numb] ( works writt5 by hairdress]s1 :i* appe>$ ) _m illu/rations1 describ+ ! v>i\s /yles ( ^! mon/rosities ( hairdress+1 8= 9 ^? days hairdress]s 7 great m540 ,:5 ! ,macc>oni co/ume 0 adopt$ 9 #aggb by "s ( ! d&ies1 _m ladies foll[$ suit ) a co/ume on simil>1 extravagant l9es1 p>ticul>ly copy+ ! enorm\s t\pe4 ,9 #agge ano!r fa%ion came 91 depict$ 9 ,fig4 #a4 ,! head-dress is call$ a half-moon t\pe1 comb$ up f ! =ehead1 l>ge curls be+ made at ! sides1 & a plume ( fea!rs surm\nt+ ! /ructure4 ,r\nd ! neck is a simple ribbon4 ,! g[n is high beh9d at ! neck1 & l[ 9 front1 ) a l>ge bun* ( fl[]s /uck 9 ! brea/1 & ! body is tightly conf9$ 9 /ays /r5g!n$ ) /eel busks4 ,! sleeves rea* to ! elb[2 long gloves are worn1 & ! fan is con/antly display$4 ,! g[n is op5 f ! wai/1 & ga!r$ 9 fe/oons at ! sides1 ! edges be+ ornam5t$ ) silk ribbons 9 puffs1 =m+ a diamond %ap$ patt]n & edg$ ) lace4 ,! petticoat1 :i* is display$ by ! op5 g[n1 is simil>ly decorat$1 & small1 high-heel$ %oes ) rosettes complete ! dress4 ,! head-dress cont9u$ z mon/r\s z ev] until1 9 #aghb1 x rea*$ ! enorm\s size %[n 9 ,fig4 #f4 ,"o hairdress]1 on complet+ 8 task1 told ! lady t 8heads1 :5 prop]ly dress$1 kept = ?ree weeks02 t !y w\ld n 8keep0 long] may be se5 f ! _m recipes giv5 = ! de/ruction ( ! insects :i* br$ 9 ! fl\r & pomatum s lib]ally be/[$ ^u ! head-dresses4 ,ne$less to say1 ^! /ructures gave unlimit$ mat]ials to ! _m satiri/s & c>icaturi/s ( ! p]iod4 ,ab\t #aghf ! heads began to l[]1 & ! hair 0 all[$ to /ream d[n ! back1 a fa%ion attribut$ to ! portrait pa9t]s1 l$ by ,sir ,jo%ua ,reynolds4 ,hats ) enorm\s brims 7 worn ( ! /yle %[n 9 ,fig4 #d1 :i* repres5ts a lady 9 a fa%ionable rid+ dress ( #aghf4 ,9 #aghi ! hair began to be worn 8frizzl$0 9 a close bu% all ov]1 ) p5dant curls on ! back & %\ld]s 7,fig4 #e74 ,! high bonnet ( ! ,fr5* peasants 0 introduc$ & 0 worn trimm$ ) lace1 s t x hung ov] ! face l an ext+ui%]4 ,! puff$ out *e/1 ! little frill$ jacket & tight sleeves1 7 also v *>act]i/ic ( ?is "t4 ,a curi\s fa%ion came 9 dur+ #aghc1 9 ! use ( /raw z an ornam5t ( dress4 ,x 0 us$ to decorate ev]y?+1 f ! cap to ! %oe buckle1 & naturally ?is 0 ! era ( /raw bonnets4 ,9 #agid extremely %ort wai/s became fa%ionable2 t is to say1 ! wai/s ( dresses 7 c>ri$ up to ! armpits4 ,9 d]ision ( ?is fa%ion1 a song comm5c+1 8,%eph]ds1 ,i h lo/ my love1 ,h y se5 my ,anna80 0 p>odi$ ?us by a wag3 8,%eph]ds1 ,i h lo/ my wai/1 ,h y se5 my body80 ,! g[n 0 worn )\t a hoop1 & fell 9 /raight1 loose folds to ! feet4 ,! fa%ion ( p[d]+ ! hair fell into disuse1 = ,mr4 ,pitt1 comput+ t x w\ld br+ 9 a rev5ue ( ab\t #baj1jjj1 put a tax ^u p[d]+ ! hair1 & almo/ ev]yone1 to 8 disgu/1 ab&on$ ! fa%ion4 ,al?\gh ! hoop _h be5 disc>d$ 9 private life = "s "t1 x appe>$ regul>ly at ,c\rt 9 z great /ate z ev] 7,fig4 #g74 ,x 0 decorat$ ) ribbons1 cords1 tassels1 & bun*es ( fl[]s2 ! wai/ 0 p9*$1 & ! head ov]load$ ) fea!rs1 jewels1 ribbons1 & ornam5ts--altoge!r a mo/ uncom=table attire4 ,_m ( ! fa%ions at ! end ( ,george's reign became ta/eful & simple1 & illu/rations ( !m w be se5 9 ! portraits1 engrav+s1 & c>icatures ( ! "t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ed4 7,fig4 #a73 ,co/ume ( a lady 9 #agge1 f an illu/ration 9 ! 8,ladies' ,magaz9e0 ( t ye> 7tak5 f a draw+ made at ,ranelagh74 7,fig4 #b73 ,a bonnet 8( unassi/$ ,briti% ta/e0 ( ! "t ( ! ,reg5cy1 #ahaa-ahbj4 7,fig4 #c73 ,a head-dress ab\t #agfh1 f a curi\s "w writt5 by a hairdress] nam$ ,/ew>t1 "u ! a/\nd+ title ( 8,plocacosmos1 or ! ,:ole ,art ( ,hair ,dress+40 ,x is a l>ge b light comp\nd ( gauze1 wire1 ribbons & fl[]s1 slop+ ov] ! =ehead4 7,fig4 #d73 ,a lady's fa%ionable rid+ co/ume 9 ,augu/1 #aghf 7f a pr9t74 7,fig4 #e73 ,a lady ( fa%ion 9 #aghi 7f a pr9t dat$ #agij74 7,fig4 #f73 ,head-dress ( a lady1 #agff 79 ,/ew>t's 8,plocacosmos074 7,fig4 #g73 ,a lady 9 ,c\rt dress 9 #agif4 ,! hoop petticoat1 ?\gh fall5 into disuse g5]ally1 0 reta9$ 9 ! ,c\rt dress4 ,,! ,,mona/ic ,,ord]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,plate #ee4 #a4 ,! ,b5$ict9es 7,fig4 #a7 are ! mo/ anci5t ( ! ,mona/ic ,ord]s1 & h always be5 ! mo/ le>n$4 ,!y 7 f\nd$ by ,/4 ,b5$ict 9 ,italy ab\t ,a4,d4 #ebi1 z a mona/]y = #ab monks1 9 ord] t !y might live1 9 a religi\s community1 a ,*ri/ian life ) l(ty ideals4 ,orig9ally1 ,/4 ,b5$ict's idea 0 n to f\nd an ,ord] ^: bran*es %\ld ext5d ?r\gh\t ,europe z "o organisation1 b r t ! v>i\s h\ses %\ld be indep5d5t ( "o ano!r4 ,! ,ord] spread v rapidly1 be+ v rational & ela/ic 9 its rules1 & x displac$ ! o!rs t 7 9 exi/5ce4 ,pope ,gregory ! ,great gave to x 8 high approval1 = z ! le>n$ ,abbot ,gasquet says3--8,9 8 7,gregory's7 op9ion1 x manife/$ no common wisdom 9 its provisions1 :i* 7 dictat$ by a m>vell\s insight into human nature1 & by a k ( ! be/ possible conditions = atta9+ ! end ( a mona/ic life1 ! p]fect love ( ,god & ( man40 ,its rule did n en=ce ascetism1 & great lib]ty 0 giv5 to ! heads ( ! ,ord] to modify its regulations to suit special circum/ances4 ,! ,mission s5t to ,engl& by ,/4 ,augu/9e1 ,a4,d4 #eig1 consi/$ ( a ,prior & ,monks ( ,/4 ,b5$ict's rule2 & z ,*ri/ianity spread 9 ?is c\ntry1 s ! numb] ( h\ses ( ! ,ord] increas$1 until 8dur+ ! :ole ,saxon p]iod1 ?is 0 ! only =m ( mona/icism 9 ,engl&40 #b4 ,! ,cluniacs grew out ( ! ,b5$ict9es1 be+ e/abli%$ at ,cluny1 ne> ,macon-sur-,saone1 ,a4,d4 #iab4 ,by ! ,b5$ict9e rule1 all religi\s h\ses 7 self-c5tr$4 ,! ,cluniac rule e/abli%$ a new pr9ciple--t !re %\ld be a great c5tral mona/]y1 ) dep5d5cies spread ov] _m l&s1 all ow+ allegiance to ! c5tral au?ority4 ,9 e case1 ! ,sup]ior ( ! less] h\ses 0 n elect$ by ! community1 b 0 nom9at$ by ! ,abbot ( ,cluny4 ,! ,ord] 0 e/abli%$ 9 ,engl& %ortly aft] ! ,norman ,conque/1 & :5 ! mona/]ies 7 suppress$ 9 ! #af? c5tury1 !re 7 ?irty-two ,cluniac ,mona/]ies 9 ?is c\ntry1 "o only--at ,b]mondsey--be+ an abbey4 #c4 ,! ,ci/]cians 7,fig4 #b74 ,?is 0 ! mo/ fl\ri%+ (f%oot ( ! ,b5$ict9es1 & 0 f\nd$ at ! ,mona/]y ( ,citeaux1 ,a4,d4 #ajib4 ,?\gh n ! f\nd] ! greate/ organis] 0 an ,engli%man1 ,/4 ,/eph5 ,h>d+4 ,! ,ci/]cians =m$ !mselves 8into an organis$ corporation1 "u ! p]petual pre-em95ce ( ! ,abbot & h\se ( ,citeaux1 ) ye>ly ,*apt]s1 :i* all ,sup]iors 7 b\nd to att5d40 ,! ,ord] spread v rapidly1 & ! fir/ abbey 0 f\nd$ 9 ,engl& ,a4,d4 #aabi4 ,at ! g5]al suppression !re 7 "o hundr$ ,ci/]cian h\ses 9 ?is c\ntry4 #d4 ,! ,c>?usians 7,fig4 #c74 ,?is ,ord] 0 f\nd$ 9 ! #aa? c5tury on v /rict & ascetic l9es4 ,! monks liv$ a life ( ! greate/ au/]ity & practis$ ! mo/ self-d5y+ ord9ances4 ,_! clo!s 7 mean & r\gh2 !y nev] ate meat--fi% & eggs be+ ! only animal food all[$1 & t only on two days 9 ! week4 ,on two days !y _h pulse or h]bs boil$1 & on ?ree days bread & wat]--only two meals a day be+ tak54 ,! fir/ ,c>?usian h\se 0 f\nd$ 9 ,engl& ,a4,d4 #aahj1 & !re 7 only eight mona/]ies ( ! ,ord] 9 ?is c\ntry at ! dissolution ( ! mona/]ies4 ,mo/ ( ! above ,ord]s _h h\ses ( ,nuns affiliat$ to !m4 ,,g5]al ,,plan ,,( ,a ,,mona/]y4 ,illu/ration3 ,plate #ef4 ,! ,abbeys & ,mona/]ies ( ! ,b5$ict9es & ! ,ord]s f\nd$ f !m1 ) ! exception ( ! ,c>?usians1 7 built on ! same g5]al plan4 ,! ,*ur* itself 01 ( c\rse1 ! pr9cipal ( ! mona/ic build+s1 & ! mo/ important "p ( ! ,*ur* 0 ! ,presbyt]y1 ) ! ,high ,alt> & ! ,*oir4 ,! ,*ur* 0 always cruci=m & ! ,presbyt]y 0 ! ea/]n arm4 ,to x only ! monks :o 7 9 prie/ly ord]s _h access4 ,! ,*oir1 or ,quire1 frequ5tly /ret*$ 9 ! ,nave beyond ! ,transepts1 & 0 divid$ (f f ! m public "p by ! great scre54 ,9 nor!rn climates ! ,*ur* 0 g5]ally situat$ on ! nor!rn side ( ! mona/ic build+s4 ,be+ a l(ty & sub/antial /ructure1 x af=d$ protection1 & act$ z a scre5 to ! o!r build+s f ! ke5 nor? w9ds4 ,next to ! ,*ur* 9 importance came ! ,cloi/]s1 :i* 7 g5]ally1 9 ,engl&1 plac$ on ! s\? side ( ! ,nave4 ,ar\nd !m 7 gr\p$ ! pr9cipal build+s4 ,! ,cloi/]s 7 cov]$ & pav$ walks1 surr\nd+ a rectangul> space call$ ! ,cloi/] ,g>?4 ,!y 7 ! common dwell+ place ( ! community1 = 9 !m ! great] "p ( ! "w ( ! monks 0 c>ri$ on4 ,! ,nor!rn ,walk1 by ! wall ( ! ,*ur*1 0 naturally ! w>me/1 z x _h a s\!rn aspect1 & "h ! monks work$4 ,! ,prior sat ne> ! ea/]n end ( ?is walk1 :]e !re 0 ! usual entrance to ! ,*ur*1 & along ?is side1 ! o!r s5iors sat--n arrang$ 9 ord] ( s5iority1 b 9 ! positions t be/ suit$ !m = ! respective tasks on :i* !y 7 engag$4 ,! ,abbot sat ap>t at ! end ( ! ea/]n cloi/] ne>e/ ! ,*ur* door4 ,9 ! same cloi/]1 b t[>d ! s\!rn end1 ! ,novice ,ma/] gave regul> in/ruction to ! novices1 & ! ,we/]n ,cloi/] 0 giv5 up to ! junior monks4 ,! ,s\!rn ,cloi/]1 ) a nor? aspect1 0 sunless & *e]less1 & 0 n g5]ally us$ z a work+ place4 ,"h 7 plac$ ! lavatories1 & ! t[el cupbo>ds4 ,abbot ,gasquet1 9 8 8,engli% ,mona/ic ,life10 says3--8,day aft] day = c5turies1 ! ,cloi/] 0 ! c5tre ( ! activity ( ! religi\s e/abli%m5t4 ,! quadrangle 0 ! place :]e ! monks liv$ & /udi$ & wrote4 ,9 ! ?ree sides--! ,nor!rn1 ! ,ea/]n1 & ,we/]n walls--7 transact$ ! *ief bus9ess ( ! h\se1 o!r ?an :at 0 m]ely ext]nal4 ,"h ! old] monks lab\r$ at ! tasks appo9t$ !m by ob$i5ce1 or discuss$ que/ions relat+ to ecclesia/ical le>n+ or regul> obs]vance2 or at p]mitt$ times jo9$ 9 recreative conv]sation4 ,"h1 too1 9 ! p>ts set aside = ! purpose1 ! y\ng] memb]s toil$ at _! /udies "u ! eye ( _! tea*]1 le>nt ! mona/ic obs]vance f ! lips ( ! ,novice ,ma/]1 or practis$ ! *ants & melodies ( ! ,div9e ,(fice ) ! ,cantor or 8 assi/ant4 ,h[ ! "w 0 done 9 ! w9t] "t1 ev5 suppos+ t ! great w9d[s look+ out on to ! ,cloi/] ,g>? 7 glaz$ or clos$ ) wood5 %utt]s1 mu/ ev] rema9 a my/]y40 ,! ,refectory1 also call$ ! ,fratry1 or ,frat] ,h\se1 0 ! d9+ hall ( ! e/abli%m5t4 ,x 0 always plac$1 ) ! kit*5s1 c41 z f> z possible f ! ,*ur*1 s t ! smell ( ! cook+ %\ld n p5etrate ! sacr$ /ructure4 ,z a rule1 ! walls ( ! ,refectory 7 wa9scott$1 & ! floor 0 cov]$ ) hay or ru%es4 ,! monks sat 9 a s+le r[ on ea* side1 ) _! backs to ! wall4 ,! ,sup]ior sat at a high table at ! ,ea/]n end1 & a pulpit 0 erect$ at ! we/]n side or s\!rn end ( ! hall4 ,f x1 "o ( ! novices read al\d "p ( ! ,scriptures 9 ,lat9 dur+ meal times4 ,9 ,ci/]cian mona/]ies ! ,refectory 0 plac$ at "r angles to ! ,s\!rn ,cloi/]1 b 9 ^? ( ! ,cluniacs & ,b5$ict9es its l5g? ran ea/ & we/ along ?is ,cloi/]4 ,! kit*51 butt]y1 & o!r (fices connect$ ) ! cook+ & /or+ ( food1 7 naturally plac$ ne> to ! refractory4 ,! ,*apt] ,h\se 0 situat$ on ! ea/]n side ( ! ,cloi/]s1 be+ built ne> ! ,*ur*4 ,x 0 always a room ( noble proportions & design1 & "h ! ,abbot & monks met daily to transact ! solemn bus9ess ( ! ,ord]4 ,! latt] sat along by ! wall & ! =m] 9 ! ea/4 ,9 a ve/ry or sacri/y ne> x 7 kept1 beside o!r ?+s1 ! books ( ! h\se4 ,! ,p>l\r 0 a room 9 :i* ! monks did :at talk+ 0 necess>y1 :5 /rict sil5ce _h to be obs]v$ 9 ! cloi/]s1 & "h sometimes !y int]view$ visitors4 ,x 0 g5]ally situat$ ne> ! ,*apt] ,h\se4 ,! ,common ,room1 also call$ ! ,calefactory or ,w>m+ ,h\se1 0 a room to :i* ! monks resort$ 9 w9t] to w>m !mselves at ! common fire1 & x 0 also us$ at times = ! purposes ( recreation4 ,above ! ,*apt] ,h\se & ! o!r build+s on ! ea/]n side 0 ! ,dormitory or ,dort] ( ! monks1 & x _h "o set ( /airs lead+ to x f ! ,ea/]n ,cloi/]1 & ano!r set lead+ d[n into ! *ur*4 ,g5]ally1 too1 on ! ea/]n side 0 a passage lead+ to ! ,infirm>y1 :i* 0 plac$ "s di/ance away f ! o!r build+s1 & ne> to x 0 ! ,mis]icorde1 a room :]e monks1 by p]mission ( ! ,abbot1 might eat meat1 :i* 0 at o!r times =bidd54 ,by ! ,we/]n ,cloi/]s 7 ! ,cell> & ! ,fratry ( ! lay bre?r5 or ,conv]si1 & ov] ^! 0 plac$ _! ,dort]4 ,!re 0 also1 9 addition to ^!1 a ,gue/ ,h\se1 (t5 ( great size & v well appo9t$1 :]e /rang]s 7 ent]ta9$4 ,?is 0 g5]ally built 9 su* a place :]e x w\ld lea/ int]f]e ) ! privacy ( ! monks2 & !re 0 also an ,almonry1 :]e food & clo?+ 7 di/ribut$ by ! monks to ! poor :o came = relief4 ,,! ,,fri>s ,,& ,,canons4 ,f ! beg9n+ ( ! #aj? to ! end ( ! #ab? c5tury1 a s]ies ( religi\s ord]s arose1 ea* aim+ at a m successful reproduction ( ! mona/ic ideal4 ,9 ! #ac? c5tury !re arose ! ,ord]s ( ,fri>s1 :o 7 inspir$ by ! pr9ciple ( devotion to ! p]=mance ( active & actual religi\s duties among _! fell[-m51 r ?an by t ( mona/ic seclusion4 ,_! plan 0 8to mix ) ! _w & "w = ! salvation ( ! _w0 9 a /ate ( absolute pov]ty4 ,_! h\ses 7 built 9 ! poore/ qu>t]s ( l>ge t[ns1 b !y only us$ ! h\ses z tempor>y re/+-places1 prea*+ & c>ry+ out _! m9i/rations ?r\gh\t ! c\ntry1 & att5d+ to ! physical & spiritual ne$s ( ! l[e/ & poore/1 includ+ ! lep]s & ! outca/s4 ,!y 7 great prea*]s1 & ?is 0 p>ticul>ly /rik+1 because prea*+ _h fall5 into disuse among ! mona/ic ord]s4 8,no?+ 9 ! hi/ories ( ,wesley or ( ,:itfield c be comp>$ ) ! en?usiasm :i* ev]y:]e welcom$ !m10 & x is said t ! "w ( ! ,fri>s /av$ (f ! ,re=mation = #bjj ye>s4 ,z /ud5ts1 ! ,fri>s did n conf9e !mselves to !ology1 b cultivat$ ! :ole range ( sci5ce & art1 & memb]s ( ! ,ord]s held v di/+ui%$ academical po/s ?r\gh\t ,europe4 ,a c&idate = admission to "o ( ! ,ord]s /udi$ !ology = ?ree ye>s1 & 0 !n exam9$ on 8 "w1 receiv+1 if successful1 a commission limit+ 8 mission to a c]ta9 di/rict 7:5 he 0 call$ a limit\r71 or all[+ him to g :]e he li/$ 7a li/]74 ,z may be imag9$1 mu* /rife arose betwe5 ^! w&]+ prea*]s & ! p>o*ial cl]gy4 ,!re 7 f\r ,ord]s ( ,fri>s3 ,dom9icans1 ,franciscans1 ,c>melites1 & ,augu/9es4 ,!y 7 call$ ,fri>s because1 out ( humility1 _! f\nd]s w\ld n h !m call$ ,fa!r1 l ! monks1 b simply ,bro!r 7,frat]1 ,frre1 ,fri>74 ,! ,dom9icans & ,franciscans came into be+ at ! beg9n+ ( ! #ac? c5tury4 ,dom9ic1 an ,augu/9ian ,canon & a ,spani>d ( noble bir?1 conceiv$ ! idea ( f\nd+ an ,ord] ( m5 :o %\ld sp5d _! lives 9 prea*+1 & at ! same "t ,/4 ,francis ( ,assisi1 ! son ( a ri* ,italian m]*ant1 0 inspir$ ) a simil> idea4 ,dom9ic & ,francis met at ,rome #abaf ,a4,d41 b1 ?\gh an attempt 0 made to comb9e _! movem5ts1 x 0 f\nd impossible to d s4 ,ea* adopt$ ! ,augu/ian rule1 & ea* requir$ t 8 foll[]s %\ld h no prop]ty1 ei!r p]sonally or z a corporate body4 ,!y 7 to "w = a livelihood or live on alms4 ,! ,dom9icans 7 le>n$1 en]getic & dogmatic2 ! ,franciscans reta9$ some:at ( ! "* ( ! pi\s1 ard5t en?usia/1 f :om !y took _! "n4 ,! ,dom9icans 7 call$ ,black ,fri>s1 z _! habit consi/$ ( a :ite tunic ) :ite girdle1 & a :ite scapul>y ) a black mantle1 hood & %oes4 7,pl4 #eh1 ,fig4 #c47 ,! ,dom9ican nuns wore ! same dress1 ) a :ite veil4 ,! ,franciscans 7 call$ ,grey ,fri>s1 f ! col\r ( _! habits1 or ,cordeli]s1 f ! knott$ rope :i* =m$ _! *>act]i/ic girdle4 ,_! habit 0 orig9ally a grey tunic1 ) long1 loose sleeves1 a knott$ cord = a girdle1 & a black hood4 ,! feet 7 always b>e1 or only protect$ by s&als4 ,9 ! #ae? c5tury1 ! col\r ( ! habit 0 *ang$ to d>k br[n4 7,pl4 #eg1 ,fig4 #a47 ,! ,franciscans 7 fir/ introduc$ into ,engl& at ,cant]bury1 #abbc ,a4,d41 & !re 7 sixty-five h\ses ( ! ,ord] 9 ,engl&1 besides f\r h\ses ( m9oresses4 ,:ile ! ,dom9icans reta9$ _! unity ( organisation1 ! ,franciscans divid$ into sev]al bran*es1 "u ! names ( ,m9orites1 ,capu*9s1 ,m9ims1 ,obs]vants1 ,recollets1 c4 ,! ,c>melites took _! "n f ,m\nt ,c>mel1 :]e !y orig9at$4 ,!y 7 driv5 f ,pale/9e by ! ,s>ac5s 9 ! #ab? c5tury1 & !n spread into ,europe1 com+ to ,engl& ab\t #abde ,a4,d4 ,_! dress 0 a :ite frock ov] a d>k blue tunic1 & !y 7 h5ce kn[n z ,:ite ,fri>s4 ,9 ! #af? c5tury !y _h ab\t =ty h\ses 9 ?is c\ntry4 7,pl4 #eg1 ,fig4 #b47 ,! ,augu/9es1 or ,au/9 ,fri>s1 7 f\nd$ 9 ! middle ( ! #ac? c5tury1 consi/+ orig9ally ( h]mits & solit>ies1 :o liv$ "u no rule at all4 ,!y 7 incorporat$ by ,pope ,innoc5t ,,iv4 into a new ,ord] ) ! above "n4 ,!y wore a black g[n ) bo>d sleeves1 girdl$ ) a lea!r belt1 & a black clo? hood4 ,!y _h ?irty-two h\ses 9 ,engl&4 ,besides ^! f\r pr9cipal ,ord]s ( m5dicant ,fri>s1 !re 7 a numb] ( less] ,ord]s1 ! *ief be+ ! ,crut*$ ,fri>s 7s call$ because !y wore a r$ cross on ! brea/ & back ( _! habit72 ,fri>s ( ! ,sack1 :o wore a pla91 bag-l g>m5t ( co>se clo? or sack+2 & ,fri>s ( ! ,holy ,tr9ity1 or ,tr9it>ians1 :o made "p ( _! "w ! ransom+ ( ,*ri/ians captur$ by ! infidels4 ,all ! m9or m5dicant ,ord]s 7except+ ! f\r great ,ord]s7 7 suppress$ #acgj ,a4,d4 ,,! ,,canons4 ,a great mona/ic family 0 kn[n "u ! "n ( ,augu/9ians1 f ,/4 ,augu/9e1 ,bi%op ( ,hippo1 :o1 x is said1 e/abli%$ mona/ic communities 9 ,africa1 & gave !m a 8rule10 or me?od ( life4 ,9 ! middle ( ! n9? c5tury all ! cl]gy--prie/s1 canons1 cl]ks1 etc4--:o _h n ent]$ ! mona/ic ranks 7 incorporat$ into "o great ,ord] to obs]ve ! rule ( ,/4 ,augu/9e4 ,! ,canons ,regul>1 z !y 7 call$1 7 ! cl]gy ( ,ca!dral & ,collegiate ,*ur*es1 liv+ 9 a community on ! mona/ic model4 ,!y wore dur+ div9e s]vice a surplice1 & a fur tippet or almuce ov] a long black cassock1 & a f\r-squ>e cap call$ a b>et or biretta4 ,!y _h mu* m lib]ty ?an ! monks4 ,a writ] 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury says3 8,among !m "o is well %od1 well clo!d1 & well f$4 ,!y g out :5 !y l1 mix ) ! _w1 & talk at table40 ,!re 7 sev]al classes ( !m 9 ,engl& kn[n z-- #a4 ,augu/9ian ,canons4 #b4 ,premon/rat5sian ,canons4 #c4 ,gilb]t9e ,canons4 ,! ,augu/9ian1 ,au/9 or ,black ,canons 7,pl4 #eg1 ,fig4 #c71 s call$ f ! habit ( ! ord]1 7 f\nd 9 ,europe aft] ! twelf? c5tury1 & 7 v popul> 9 ,engl&4 ,at ! "t ( ! ,dissolution !y _h ab\t #agj h\ses 9 ,engl&1 two ( ! ,abbeys--,wal?am ,cross & ,cir5ce/]--be+ gov]n$ by mitr$ abbots4 ,! ,premon/rat5sian ,canons 7 nam$ aft] ,prmontr1 9 ,france1 :]e !y orig9at$ 9 ! twelf? c5tury4 ,!y wore a :ite habit1 & 7 kn[n z ,:ite ,canons4 ,welbeck ,abbey 0 ! *ief h\se 9 ,engl&1 & at ! ,dissolution !re 7 #cd h\ses ( ! ,ord] 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! ,gilb]t9e ,canons 7 f\nd$ by ,/4 ,gilb]t1 ,rector ( ,sempr+ham4 9 ! twelf? c5tury4 ,! ,ord] 0 "o = bo? m5 & wom51 & 9 ! d\ble mona/]ies ! canons & nuns liv$ 9 sep>ate h\ses1 hav+ no communion4 ,! m5 wore a black habit ) a :ite cloak1 & a hood l9$ ) lamb's wool4 ,! wom5 7 9 black1 ) a :ite cap4 ,! ,ord] _h #bf e/abli%m5ts 9 ,engl& at ! ,dissolution4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #eg4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a ,franciscan ,fri>4 7,fig4 #b73 ,a ,c>melite ,fri>4 7,fig4 #c73 ,an ,augu/9ian ,canon4 ,,milit>y ,,mona/ic ,,ord]s4 7,plate #eh47 ,! milit>y ,ord]s1 consi/+ ( m5 :o comb9$ ! religi\s duties ( monks & ! milit>y ex]cises ( knights1 7 ! ,knights ,hospitall]s & ! ,knights ,templ>s4 ,! ,knights ,hospitall]s ( ,/4 ,john ( ,j]usalem 7,pl4 #eh1 ,fig4 #a7 7 orig9ally n a milit>y ,ord]4 ,?is ,ord] took its "n & 0 f\nd$ at an hospital 9 ,j]usalem by ! m]*ants ( ,amalfi1 9 ,italy1 = ! purpose ( af=d+ hospitality to ! ,pilgrims com+ to ! ,holy ,l&4 ,x 0 d$icat$ to ,/4 ,john ! ,bapti/1 & ! fir/ bus9ess ( its memb]s 0 to provide = su* pilgrims at t hospital1 & to protect !m f insults & injuries on ! road4 ,! op5 c\ntry 0 p]petually expos$ to ! incursions ( irregul> b&s ( ,s>ac5 & ,turki% horsem51 & any ( ! hapless pilgrims :o 7 captur$ 7 put to dea? or sold into slav]y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #eh4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a ,knight ,hospitall]4 7,fig4 #b73 ,a ,knight ,templ>4 7,fig4 #c73 ,a ,dom9ican ,fri>4 ,! ,ord] 0 in/itut$ ab\t #ajib ,a4,d41 & 0 v mu* fav\r$ by ,godfrey ( ,b\illon & 8 successor1 ,baldw91 ,k+ ( ,j]usalem4 ,! k9dness ( ! ,hospitall]s to ! sick & w\nd$ soldi]s ( ! ,fir/ ,crusade made !m popul>1 & sev]al ( ! ,crusad+ pr9ces end[$ !m ) e/ates2 :ile _m ( ! ,crusad]s1 in/ead ( return+ home1 laid d[n _! arms & jo9$ ! bro!rhood4 ,aft] a "t1 :5 _! end[m5ts became v great1 !y recon/itut$ ! ,ord] on ! model ( ! ,templ>s4 ,f ?is "t ! two milit>y ,ord]s =m$ a p[]ful /&+ army = ! def5ce ( ! k+dom ( ,j]usalem4 ,z monks1 !y foll[$ a rule ( life f\nd$ ^u t ( ,/4 ,augu/9e1 & wore a black mantle ) a :ite cross on ! left %\ld]4 ,!y soon came to ,engl&1 & _h a h\se built = !m 9 ,london ab\t #aadj ,a4,d41 & f poor & mean beg9n+s obta9$ s great weal?1 hon\rs1 & exemptions1 t _! ,sup]ior "h 9 ,engl& 0 ! fir/ lay b>on & _h a seat among ! ,lords 9 ,p>liam5t2 "s ( _! privileges be+ ext5d$ ev5 to _! t5ants4 ,:5 on milit>y duty1 ! knights wore ! ord9>y arm\r ( ! p]iod1 a r$ surcoat ) a :ite cross on ! brea/1 & a r$ mantle ) a :ite cross on ! %\ld]4 ,! small] e/abli%m5ts ^u _! manors & e/ates 7 call$ comm&]ies1 & ! head ( ! h\se 0 kn[n z ! ,comm&]4 ,sometimes _! h\ses 7 call$ preceptories1 b ?is t]m 0 m g5]ally appli$ to ! e/abli%m5ts ( ! ,knights ,templ>s4 ,!y _h _! headqu>t]s at ! ,hospital ( ,/4 ,john1 ne> ,cl]k5well1 :]e ! gate 7rebuilt 9 #aedj7 may /ill be se54 ,!re 7 ab\t #ec cells or comm&]ies atta*$ to ?is hospital 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! c\ntry1 :]e ! novices might be tra9$ 9 piety & 9 milit>y ex]cises4 ,:5 ! ,*ri/ians 7 driv5 out ( ,j]usalem1 ! ,knights ( ,/4 ,john pass$ to ! ,isle ( ,cyprus1 aft]w>ds to ! ,isle ( ,rhodes1 & f9ally to ,malta1 :]e !y ma9ta9$ a con/ant w>f>e aga9/ ! ,mahomm$ans1 act+ z ! police ( ! ,m$it]ranean & do+ _! be/ to oppose ! piracies ( ! ,corsairs4 ,! ,ord] 0 divid$ at ,malta accord+ to nationality--! ,engli% knights1 ! ,fr5* knights1 etc41 ea* nation hav+ a sep>ate h\se situat$ at a diff]5t po9t ( ! isl& = its def5ce4 ,! ,ord] 0 suppress$ 9 ,engl& 9 #aeda1 resuscitat$ 9 ,m>y's reign1 & f9ally aboli%$ on ! accession ( ,que5 ,elizabe?4 ,knights ,templ>s4 7,pl4 #eh1 ,fig #b47 ,! ,knights ,templ>s1 or simply ! 8,templ>s10 7 in/itut$ #aaah ,a4,d41 & 7 s call$ f hav+ _! fir/ resid5ce adjo9+ ! ,temple at ,j]usalem4 ,n9e knights b\nd !mselves into a frat]nity1 :i* adopt$ ! fundam5tal mona/ic v[s ( ob$i5ce1 pov]ty1 & *a/ity1 &1 9 addition1 _! bus9ess 0 to gu>d ! roads = ! security ( pilgrims 9 ! ,holy ,l&4 ,_m memb]s ( ! noble/ h\ses 9 ,europe jo9$ ! ,ord]1 & end[m5ts fl[$ 9 abundantly4 ,gradually dep5d5t h\ses 7 e/abli%$ on its e/ates 9 ne>ly e c\ntry ( ,europe4 ,_! rule1 l t ( ! ,hospitall]s1 0 accord+ to t ( ,/4 ,augu/9e1 & _! habit consi/$ ( a l>ge :ite mantle ) a r$ cross on ! left %\ld]1 ov] ! ord9>y arm\r ( ! p]iod4 ,!y came to ,engl& e>ly 9 ! reign ( ,/eph51 settl+ fir/ at ,holborn 9 ,london4 ,aft]w>ds _! headqu>t]s 7 remov$ to ,fleet ,/reet1 & 7 kn[n z 8,! ,temple40 ,on ?is gr\nd !y built a mona/]y1 b>racks1 cloi/]1 c\ncil *amb]1 refectory1 a riv] t]race z ex]cise gr\nd z well z = religi\s m$itation1 a tilt+ gr\nd :]e ! ,law ,c\rts n[ /&1 & a v beautiful *ur*4 ,?is e/abli%m5t n[ = _m ye>s has be5 giv5 ov] to ! ,law1 ,*auc] hav+ be5 "o ( ! fir/ law /ud5ts !re4 ,! orig9al *ur*1 ) its r\nd nave1 aft] ! =m ( ! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re at ,j]usalem1 /ill rema9s--a monum5t to ! weal? & influ5ce ( ! anci5t ,templ>s4 ,! bann] ( ! ,ord] 0 ( black & :ite clo?1 call$ beauseant 7,pl4 #bi1 ,fig4 #bd71 & !y adopt$ ?is ^w z a w> cry4 ,! rule all[$ ?ree horses & a s]vant to ea* knight1 & m>ri$ knights 7 also admitt$ to ! ,ord]4 ,9 ,engl& _! numb]s increas$ v rapidly1 & !y obta9$ l>ge possessions1 b 9 less ?an two hundr$ ye>s _! weal? & p[] 7 ?\ght to be too great4 ,!y 7 accus$ ( horrid crimes1 & 7 ev]y:]e put into prison4 ,_! ,ord] 0 suppress$ by ,pope ,clem5t ,v4 9 #acji ,a4,d41 & totally aboli%$ by ! ,c\ncil ( ,vi5na #acab ,a4,d4 ,! ,sup]ior ( ! ,ord] 9 ,engl& 0 /yl$ ,ma/] ( ! ,temple1 & 0 (t5 summon$ to ,p>liam5t4 ,l ! ,hospitall]s1 ! ,templ>s built *ur*es & h\ses on _! e/ates call$ ,preceptories4 ,:5 ! ord] 0 suppress$1 ^! l&s & h\ses1 eighte5 9 numb]1 7 h&$ ov] to ! ,hospitall]s4 ,9 ! ,temple ,*ur* !re are n9e effigies ( knights1 :i* are c]ta9ly ! f9e/ & mo/ int]e/+ collection ( monum5tal figures ( ?is e>ly p]iod possess$ by any "o *ur* 9 ! k+dom4 ,!y exhibit ! milit>y co/ume z x is said to h be5 worn at ! ,crusades4 ,accord+ to ! sculptor :o re/or$ ! effigies1 ! ,templ>s wore long be>ds1 & _! g5]al dress consi/$ ( a haub]k or tunic ( r+$ mail rea*+ to ! knees1 ) sleeves1 gloves1 & *ausses cov]+ ! legs & feet ( ! same k9d ( mail1 a light sleeveless surcoat ( :ite ) a r$ cross ov] ! haub]k1 gird$ ab\t ! wai/ by a belt2 ano!r belt pass+ transv]sely r\nd ! body ov] ! "r %\ld] & "u ! left arm1 by :i* a long or kite-%ap$ %ield 0 support$2 a sword belt obliquely across ! lo9s1 ) a long1 heavy sword atta*$1 & s+le-po9t$ or 8prick0 spurs4 ,ov] all 0 worn a long :ite mantle fa/5$ "u ! *9 & rea*+ to ! feet1 ) a r$ cross on ! left %\ld]4 ,on ! head 0 worn a l95 coif1 & above t a b[l-%ap$ skull-cap ( r$ clo? turn$ up all r\nd4 ,:5 completely arm$1 ! coif & cap 7 ex*ang$ = a hood ( mail cov]+ ! neck & head1 & ov] t "o ( ! l>ge heaumes or helmets 0 worn4 ,,ecclesia/ical ,,co/umes ,,& ,,ve/m5ts4 ,!re 7 two great divisions ( ,m$ival ,ecclesia/ics1 ! ,major ,ord]s & ! ,m9or ,ord]s4 ,! ,major ,ord]s includ$ ! ,ar*bi%op1 ! ,bi%op1 ! ,prie/1 ! ,deacon or ,gospell]1 & ! ,sub-deacon1 or ,patt]n]1 z ,*auc] calls him4 ,! ,m9or ,ord]s compris$ ! ,acolyte 7symbol1 a c&le71 ! ,exorci/ 7a holy wat] vessel71 ! ,doorkeep] 7a key71 ! ,lector 7a key71 & 9 "s cases ! ,sexton4 ,9 ! mona/ic times all ^! _h ! %av5 cr[n or tonsure4 ,= _m c5turies ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts rema9$ un*ang$1 ^? us$ 9 ! ,*ur* at ! ,conque/ be+ practically id5tical ) ^? us$ at ! "t ( ! ,re=mation4 ,! ev]yday g>m5t 0 ! cassock1 a long g>m5t ) long sleeves1 made ( heavy wooll5 mat]ial4 ,x 0 g5]ally black or br[n 9 ! case ( ! inf]ior cl]gy1 & sc>let = ,doctors ( ,div9ity4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #ei4 7,fig4 #a73 ,brass ( ,lawr5ce ,seym\r1 #accg1 ,higham ,f]r]s ,*ur*1 ,nor?ampton%ire1 %[+ ! ,eu*>i/ ,ve/m5ts1 ,amice1 ,*asuble1 ,maniple1 ,alb1 ,/ole1 & ,app>els4 7,fig4 #b73 ,brass ( ,rob]t ,langton1 ,d4,c4,l41 #aeah1 at ,que5's ,college1 ,ox=d1 9 ri* ornam5t$ ,cope1 we>+ also a doctor's cap4 ,^! are (t5 spok5 ( z ! ,processional g>m5ts4 7,fig4 #c73 ,brass ( ,abbot de la ,m>e1 at ,/4 ,alban's ,abbey1 di$ #acif2 brass made 9 8 lifetime1 betwe5 #acfj & #acge4 ,! :ole brass1 ( ,flemi% manufacture1 is "o ( ! f9e/ 9 ,engl&4 ,! ,abbot is 8ve/$ 9 ,eu*>i/ ve/m5ts1 ) jewell$ mitre & pa/oral /aff10 ! latt] ) ! ,agnus ,dei 9 ! head4 ,9 cold wea!r ! cassock 0 frequ5tly l9$ ) %eepsk9 or fur1 0 provid$ ) a hood1 & 0 gird$ ) a ?ick knott$ cord or c+ulum4 ,! ve/m5ts or c]emonial g>m5ts1 worn :5 (ficiat+ at ! s]vices ( ! ,*ur*1 7 mu* m elaborate4 ,a long1 close-fitt+ :ite g>m5t1 l a coat ) n>r[ sleeves1 rea*+ to ! feet1 0 worn by all1 ev5 to ! doorkeep]4 ,x 0 call$ ! alb1 & 0 conf9$ at ! wai/ by a girdle4 ,prie/s & dignit>ies ( ! ,*ur* _h six pieces ( embroid]$ ne$lework or clo? ( gold call$ app>els fa/5$ to ! alb1 at ! bottom ( ! skirt be=e & beh9d 7#b71 on ! wri/ ( ea* sleeve 7#b71 & on ! brea/ 7#a7 & back 7#a74 ,ar\nd ! neck 0 worn ! amice3 ,x 0 a k9d ( l>ge l95 h&k]*ief1 ) embroid]$ "w along "o ( its sides4 ,x 0 turn$ d[n l a coll>1 %[+ ! embroid]y 7:i* appe>s 9 brasses l a coll>71 & leav+ ! ?roat ( ! we>] expos$4 ,a /ole or n>r[ embroid]$ b& 0 hung ar\nd ! neck1 rea*+ ne>ly to ! feet1 ! ends be+ fr+$4 ,9 brasses only ! ends appe>1 ! upp] portions be+ cov]$ by ! o!r ve/m5ts4 ,a %ort piece ( embroid]$ "w call$ ! maniple1 ) ends fr+$ l ! /ole1 0 worn ov] ! left arm1 be+ fa/5$ to ! sleeve4 ,at ! "t ( ! ,conque/ ! maniple 0 a napk9 ) :i* ! prie/ wip$ 8 face & br[ dur+ ,mass4 ,ov] ! o!r ve/m5ts 0 worn a circul> or oval g>m5t call$ a *asuble4 ,x _h an op5+ 9 ! c5tre ?r\gh :i* ! head 0 ?ru/1 & its ample folds re/$ at ei!r side ^u ! arms4 ,x 0 worn pla9 or ) an embroid]$ bord]4 ,9 lat] times ! *ausuble & alb 7 sometimes made ( col\r$ mat]ials4 ,! *asuble1 maniple1 & /ole 7 all ( ! same mat]ial & col\r4 ,! prie/ wore ^! ve/m5ts dur+ ! s]vices1 & :5 he di$ he 0 buri$ 9 !m4 ,!y 7 put on 9 ! foll[+ ord]3 ,amice1 alb1 maniple1 /ole1 & *asuble1 & !y are (t5 spok5 ( z ! 8eu*>i/ic ve/m5ts40 ,bi%ops & ,mitr$ ,abbots wore ! same ve/m5ts z prie/s1 b ) ! addition ( ! tunicle & dalmatic bel[ ! *asuble1 s&als1 gloves1 a r+ set ) preci\s /ones on ! ?ird f+] ( ! "r h&1 mitre1 & pa/oral /aff4 ,! dalmatic 0 a g>m5t %ort] ?an ! alb1 slit up = a di/ance on ei!r side4 7,pl4 #ei1 ,fig4 #c47 ,l ! *asuble1 x 0 made ( ri* mat]ial4 ,! tunicle1 worn und]nea? ! dalmatic1 0 simil> to x 9 %ape1 b made ( l954 ,! only ecclesia/ical ornam5ts :i* und]w5t any *ange 7 ! mitre & crozi]4 ,at fir/ ! mitre 0 ( :ite l951 & l[ 9 height4 ,z "t w5t on x 0 made ( silk & ornam5t$ ) embroid]y & jewels1 & x became high] 9 =m4 7,f ! "t ( ! ,re=mation ! mitre 0 n recognis$ z "p ( episcopal attire 9 ! ,e/abli%$ ,*ur*1 b 9 #ahhe1 aft] a lapse ( #ej ye>s1 x 0 resum$ by ! ,bi%op ( ,l9coln1 :o wrote x !n = ! fir/ "t amid consid]able prote/s47 ,! ,pa/oral ,/aff1 or s-call$ crozi]1 0 borne alike by ,ar*bi%ops1 ,bi%ops1 & ,abbots1 & 0 usually held 9 ! left h& or aga9/ ! left arm1 leav+ ! "r free to be uplift$ 9 bless+4 ,x t]m9at$ 9 a l>ge %eph]d's crook or scroll1 ! curv$ volute be+ (t5 ri*ly ornam5t$ ) foliage4 ,! /aff 0 made ( r>] wood1 su* z c$> or ebony1 & 0 %od ) a po9t$ f]rule4 ,! top 0 deta*able1 & 0 usually made ( metal or ( ivory4 ,be=e ,ar*bi%ops 0 also c>ri$ a ,cross1 a /aff be>+ a cross at ! top4 ,!y also wore ! pall1 or palium1 a n>r[ loop or circle ( :ite lambswool plac$ ov] ! %\ld]s1 ) a weight$ b& hang+ d[n be=e & beh9d4 ,look$ at f ! front1 x appe>s l ! lett] ,y4 ,x 0 made only 9 ,rome1 & 0 especially be/[$ on all ,ar*bi%ops by ! ,pope4 ,9 processions ! cl]gy wore cassock & surplice z !y d n[1 ) ! almuce1 a l>ge cap turn$ d[n ov] ! %\ld]s1 & l9$ ) fur1 :i* v>i$ 9 col\r accord+ to ! degree ( ! we>]2 ! hood & ! cope4 ,! cope 0 a k9d ( cloak1 & became ! mo/ gorge\s ( m$ival ecclesia/ical g>m5ts4 ,x 0 made 9 e conceivable col\r1 & heavily adorn$ ) ! ri*e/ gold "w encru/$ ) jewels4 ,:5 spread out flat1 x 0 9 %ape a p]fect semi-circle1 & 0 decorat$ at ! front edges ) b&s ( embroid]y f coll> to hem4 ,a fam\s cope is ! ,syon ,cope n[ pres]v$ 9 ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton collection4 ,9 ! ,middle ,ages ! cl]gy1 :5 n engag$ 9 _! (ficial duties1 (t5 dress$ simil>ly to ! laity1 & ?\gh !y 7 ord]$ to we> ! tonsure & a sob] dress1 ^! in/ructions 7 v (t5 neglect$ & ignor$4 ,_m ( !m dress$ 9 bright col\rs1 (t5 9 ! extreme ( fa%ion1 we>+ knives at _! girdles1 brightly col\r$ %oes ) long toes1 & jewell]y4 ,at ! "t ( ! ,re=mation1 :5 ! ,engli% cl]gy ab&on$ ! m$ival robes1 !y also desi/$ f we>+ ! tonsure1 :i* _h = _m c5turies be5 ! di/+ui%+ m>k ( ! cl]gy1 & !y seem g5]ally to h adopt$ ! academical dress = _! (ficial & ord9>y attire4 ,,pilgrims4 ,! fa%ion = go+ on pilgrimage appe>s to h sprung up 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 b we he> ( x at a mu* e>li] "t ?an ?is4 ,*ri/ian pilgrimages began 9 visits to ! sc5es ( ,our ,"l's e>ly life4 ,z ! cu/om grew1 facilities 7 (f]$ to light5 ! j\rney4 ,adv5tur\s %ip[n]s organis$ a k9d ( s]vice1 s t pilgrims c\ld travel to ! ,holy ,l& vi ,rome4 ,:5 ! j\rney 0 made on l&1 ! pilgrims took advantage ( ! hospitals & ho/els :i* 7 f\nd$ "h & !re along ! regul> r\tes to re/ !mselves & obta9 food4 ,treaties 7 made by mon>*s to secure ! safe passage ( _! subjects ?r\gh =eign l&s4 ,pilgrims 7 fre$ f all tolls1 & anyone do+ !m bodily injury 0 liable to excommunication4 ,9 ! ,holy ,l& ! ,ord]s ( ,knights ,templ>s & ,knights ,hospitall]s 7 f\nd$ to safegu>d !m f ! attacks ( w&]+ bodies ( ,s>ac5s1 & to lodge !m safely :5 !y rea*$ ,j]usalem4 ,! next mo/ important pilgrimages 7 ^? to ! tombs ( ,,ss4 ,pet] & ,paul at ,rome1 ! c5tre ( ,we/]n ,*ri/ianity1 & to ! %r9e ( ,/4 ,james at ,compo/ella1 9 ,spa94 ,! ,engli% p1 :o 7 prev5t$ f mak+ pilgrimages to ,j]usalem1 ,rome1 or ,compo/ella1 c\ld probably sp>e "t = a %ort] j\rney1 & pilgrimages to ,engli% %r9es became v common4 ,! mo/ popul> ( ^! 7 t ( ,/4 ,?omas ,becket1 at ,cant]bury1 & t ( ,our ,lady 7! ,virg9 ,m>y71 at ,wals+ham 7tw5ty-sev5 miles f ,norwi*71 :]e !re 0 a miracul\s /atue ( ! ,virg94 ,to ! =m] came also _m pilgrims f ! ,cont95t ( ,europe4 ,ne>ly e ,ca!dral & ,mona/]y1 too1 _h its fam\s sa9t1 to ^: %r9e ! p re/or$4 ,!re 7 ,/4 ,cu?b]t at ,durham1 ,/4 ,william at ,york1 ,/4 ,hugh at ,l9coln1 ,/4 ,edw>d ,confessor at ,we/m9/]1 & ,/4 ,edmund at ,bury1 & _m o!rs4 ,!re 7 also fam\s ,roods 7figures ( our ,"l on ! ,cross71 /atues ( ! ,virg91 & ,holy ,wells2 & a place ( great attraction 0 ,gla/onbury1 to :i* _m travell$ to see ! fam\s ,holy ,?orn1 said to h be5 plant$ by ,/4 ,joseph ( ,arima?a4 ,memb]s ( all classes ( society und]took ^! pilgrimages4 ,ri* p ) no occupation c\ld af=d ! leisure & co/ ( ^! j\rneys1 & ! poor1 :o gave up _! regul> "w & made ! pilgrimage1 c\ld c\nt on bo>d & lodg+ at ! num]\s hospitals1 mona/]ies1 at ! p>i% prie/'s rectory1 & 9 e g5tleman's hall4 ,! poor pilgrim repaid 8 ho/s by ent]ta9+ !m ) ! news ( ! l&s ?r\gh :i* he _h pass$1 & by amus+ ! h\sehold aft] supp] ) m>vell\s sa9tly leg5ds & travell]s' tales4 ,he rais$ funds1 too1 on 8 return j\rney by retail+ holy trifles & curiosities1 :i* 7 sold :olesale at ! %r9es frequ5t$ by pilgrims1 & sometimes he w\ld make a bold] flight by c>ry+ "s fragm5t ( a relic1 a jo9t ( a bone1 or a c\ple ( ! hairs ( a sa9t1 & he receiv$ paym5t f p = br++ to _! doors "s ( ! advantages ( ! holy %r9es :i* he _h visit$4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 0 an abuse1 & 0 visit$ by heavy p5alties by ! ,*ur*4 ,! ma9 purpose ( ^! pilgrimages 01 ( c\rse1 to ga9 direct spiritual advantage1 b "s 7 expiatory & p5it5tial2 o!rs 7 made out ( gratitude = special m]cies1 recov]+ f illnesses1 c4 ,x is said t 9 ! #h? c5tury1 "s ,engli% m]*ants c>ri$ on a k9d ( smuggl+ trade 9 =eign c\ntries4 ,!y put on ! pilgrim's g>b1 & c>ri$ _! goods 9 bales1 :i* !y said conta9$ provisions = _! j\rney1 & 7 exempt f pay+ any duty4 ,! prep>ation ( ! pilgrim 9 ! ,middle ,ages 0 a solemn matt]4 ,be=e he />t$ on 8 j\rney1 he w5t to ,*ur*1 &1 aft] ,confession1 8 scrip & /aff 7 bless$ & h&$ to him1 & 8 habit 7if he 7 go+ to ,j]usalem71 0 bless$ also4 ,he !n took ! ,holy ,sacram5t1 & x is surmis$ t a c]tificate ( 8 hav+ be5 bless$ z a pilgrim 0 !n h&$ to him4 ,aft] t1 he 0 conduct$ out ( ! p>i%1 to comm5ce 8 j\rney1 by ! prie/1 ) ! ,cross & ,holy ,wat] borne 9 procession4 ,a c]ta9 co/ume 0 worn1 spok5 ( z 8pilgrim's we$s10 consi/+ ( a robe1 hat1 /aff1 & scrip4 ,! robe is said to h be5 ( wool1 sometimes ( a v %aggy appe>ance4 7,fig4 #b47 ,! hat 0 r\nd1 ) a wide brim1 & 0 commonly made ( felt4 ,b ! special insignia ( a pilgrim 7 8 scrip & /aff4 ,! scrip 0 a small bag1 slung by a cord ov] ! %\ld] to hold 8 food & a few necess>ies1 & to x 0 (t5 affix$ a special sign or tok51 indicat+ ! pilgrimage he 0 mak+4 ,! pilgrim to ! ,holy ,l&1 too1 wore a cross =m$ by two /rips ( col\r$ clo? sewn on ! %\ld] ( 8 robe4 ,diff]5t col\rs 7 us$ to indicate ! nationality ( ! pilgrims--e4g41 ! ,engli% wore a :ite cross1 ! ,fr5* r$1 & ! ,flemi% gre54 ,! /aff or b\rdon v>ies 9 appe>ance 9 diff]5t ,,mss41 b 0 g5]ally l a long walk+ /ick1 (t5 ) a knob at ! top & "o l[] d[n4 7,figs4 #a & #c47 ,sometimes bel[ ! top is a hook 7,fig4 #b71 to :i* a wat]-bottle or small bundle c\ld be atta*$4 ,_m pilgrims also c>ri$ bells1 z !y 7 8?\ght to possess locomotive & o!r miracul\s p[]s40 7,cutts47 ,:5 ! pilgrim rea*$ ! ,holy ,l& & _h visit$ ! holy places1 he 0 entitl$ to we> ! palm1 %[+ t he _h accompli%$ 8 pilgrimage1 & f ?is badge he 0 kn[n z a ,palm]4 ,probably x 0 fa/5$ z a sprig ( palm on ! hat or scrip4 ,to give an idea ( ! numb] :o und]took ^! pilgrimages1 x may be m5tion$ t 9 "o mon? dur+ ! ,fir/ ,jubilee1 #bjj1jjj ( !m w5t to ,rome4 ,! *ief badge = ?is j\rney bore ! effigies ( ,/4 ,pet]1 ,/4 ,paul1 & ! ,cross ,keys1 & ano!r 0 ! ,v]nicle or ,k]*ief ( ,/4 ,v]onica4 ,! sign ( ! ,compo/ella 0 a scallop %ell4 7,fig4 #h47 ,^! badges1 kn[n also z ,pilgrims' signs or ,pilgrims' tok5s 7,pl4 #fj1 ,figs4 #d1 #f1 #h1 #aj71 7 made ( lead or pewt]1 & z "o 0 obta9$ at ea* %r9e visit$1 a pilgrim :o made a long j\rney might come back ) _m ( ^! signs display$ ab\t 8 p]son4 ,! *ief sign ( ! ,cant]bury pilgrimage 0 an ampul or ampulla or flask ( lead or pewt]4 ,x is said t aft] ! murd] ( ,becket1 ! monks ( ,cant]bury collect$ 8 blood f ! pavem5t & made a miracul\s cure by adm9i/]+ a drop to a sick lady :o visit$ ! %r9e4 ,!reupon !y mix$ a drop 9 a *alice ( wat] & gave x z a m$ic9e to _m sick :o came to be cur$1 & 9 ord] t ! m$ic9e might be c>ri$ away & adm9i/]$ to o!r sick p1 ^! small metal flasks 7 made to conta9 x4 ,on _! return1 ! pilgrims hung ^! flasks 9 _! p>i% *ur*es z sacr$ relics4 7,figs4 #e1 #h1 & #i47 ,ano!r 8sign0 ( ,cant]bury 0 a bell1 & x is ow+ to ?is fact t a well-kn[n fl[] is call$ ! ,cant]bury bell4 ,foll[+ ! example ( ! monks ( ,cant]bury1 ! gu>dians ( o!r %r9es dipp$ _! sacr$ relics into wat] & put up ?is sacr$ wat] = use z m$ic9e into small flasks1 :i* !y sold to pilgrims4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate #fj4 7,fig4 #a73 ,a b>e-foot$ ,pilgrim ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 f ,briti% ,museum1 ,royal ,,ms41 #ae iii4 7,fig4 #b73 ,ludgate's ,pilgrim1 f ,h>l4 ,,ms41 #dhbf 7f\rte5? c5tury74 ,8 scrip be>s a scallop %ell1 ! pilgrim's sign = ,compo/ella1 & he we>s a r\gh1 %aggy robe4 7,fig4 #c73 ,a ,palm]1 f ,cott4 ,,ms41 ,tib4 ,a vii4 ,8 hat is slung beh9d him1 & ! cr[n ( 8 head is %av$1 z 0 (t5 ! cu/om4 7,9 ,figs4 #a & #b a be>d is worn1 = (t5 ! pilgrim on sett+ out1 made a v[ t he w\ld n cut 8 hair or 8 be>d :ile on ! pilgrimage47 7,fig4 #d73 ,a ,pilgrim's ,sign--! five small circles repres5t+ ! five w\nds ( ,*ri/4 7,fig4 #e73 ,a lead ,ampulla f ! %r9e ( ,/4 ,?omas ,becket at ,cant]bury4 7,york ,museum47 ,x be>s a figure ( ! ,ar*bi%op1 & on ! scroll a leg5d :i* is translat$ z 8,?omas is ! be/ physician = ! pi\s sick40 ,x probably dates f ! e>ly "p ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 7,fig4 #f73 ,a ,pilgrim's ,sign ( ,/4 ,ca!r9e1 consi/+ ( a ,ca!r9e ,:eel4 7,f\rte5? c5tury47 7,fig4 #g73 ,a ,reliqu>y 9 =m ( sph]e ( op5-"w trac]y1 conta9+ fragm5ts ( %ells1 f ! %r9e ( ,/4 ,james ( ,compo/ella4 7,f\rte5?-fifte5? c5turies47 7,fig4 #h73 ,an ,ampulla 9 ! =m ( a scallop %ell1 ) h&les = susp5d+ x ar\nd ! neck by a cord1 f ,compo/ella4 7,fig4 #i73 ,an ,ampulla f ! %r9e ( ,/4 ,?omas ,becket1 ,cant]bury1 be>+ on "o side a repres5tation ( ! murd] ( ,becket1 & on ! o!r1 ?ree figures )9 an arcade4 7,fig4 #aj73 ,a ,pilgrim's ,sign f ,cant]bury1 conta9+ a figure ( ,/4 ,?omas1 ! "r h& uplift$ 9 bless+ & ! left hold+ ! crozi]4 7,figs4 #d1 #f1 #g1 #h1 & #i are f ! ,guildhall ,museum1 ,london47 ,9 ! old ,,mss41 we read ( _m wond]ful miracles p]=m$ by ! adm9i/ration ( ^! holy wat]s to sick & diseas$ p]sons4 ,special roads appe> to h be5 made to ! *ief %r9es4 ,!re 0 ! 8,pilgrims' ,road0 across ,k5t f ,london to ,cant]bury1 & ! 8,palm]s ,way10 & ! 8,wals+ham ,gre5 ,way0 to ,wals+ham4 ,! t[ns ( pilgrimage 7 l>gely a collection ( inns1 & *ur*es & ho/els = poor pilgrims1 ! lat] in/itutions (t5 be+ support$ by local guilds4 ,pilgrims made _! j\rneys ei!r s+ly or 9 b&s = ! sake ( protection & company1 & to enliv5 _! way !y sometimes hir$ a musician to play ! bagpipes4 ,:5 ! pilgrims rea*$ ! %r9e1 !y made _! (f]+s1 took "p 9 pray]1 & 7 %[n ! holy relics1 :i* !y 7 (t5 all[$ to kiss4 ,at ,cant]bury ! %r9e ( ,/4 ,?omas 0 cov]$ ) gold & encru/$ ) _m preci\s /ones ( great size & value2 = ! pr9cipal ( !m 7 (f]+s f sov]eign pr9ces4 ,a great result ( ! practice ( mak+ pilgrimages 0 ! developm5t ( national s5tim5t1 = p 9 =eign l&s 7 br\ght toge!r f diff]5t p>ts ( ! same c\ntry4 8,x also broke d[n ! prov9cialism1 gave a holiday & fre% air & *ange ( life & sc5e4 ,f9ally x introduc$ ! pilgrims to =eign l&s1 & s help$ on ! gr[? ( comm]ce40 ,hi/ory & ,geography ,publications4 ,,! 8,,b]g]0 ,,h&work ,,c>ds4 ,by ,h4 ,r4 ,,well]1 ,a4,m4,c4 ,,c>dbo>d ,,& ,,pap] ,,modell+ ,,c>ds = ! ,,hi/ory & ,,geography ,,lesson4 ,a s]ies ( #cb c>ds 7size #g #e ins471 ) full in/ructions1 & :]e necess>y1 directions = col\r+ ! models are add$4 ,?is s]ies w be f\nd especially helpful dur+ ! ye> prec$+ in/ruction 9 light woodwork4 ,tea*]s w also f9d !m useful :5 models are requir$ to illu/rate ,hi/ory & ,geography ,lessons4 ,sid5ote3 ,"s ( ! ,models are3 ,,tudor ,,h\se ,,& ,,%op4 ,,pillory4 ,,norman ,,ca/le4 ,,/ocks ,,& ,,:ipp+ ,,po/4 ,,knight',s ,,cabriolet4 ,,coracle4 ,,s$an ,,*air4 ,,frid/ool4 ,,old ,,m>ket ,,cross4 ,,ram ,,& ,,rat4 ,,palank94 ,,bir* ,,b>k ,,canoe4 ,,sampan4 ,,pyramid4 ,,log ,,cab94 ,,h[dah4 ,,! ,,pillory4 ,,bunk]',s ,,hill ,,monum5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,saxon ,,h\se ,framework ( wood5 beams fill$ 9 ) pla/]1 /ones4 ,bricks3 ro($ ) a cov] ( ?at*3 smoke hole 9 ro(3 no w9d[s3 ! op5+s b>r$3 cov] ! ro( ( model ) ba/ or a col\r to imitate ,col\r3 black beams3 yell[ :ite pla/] ,r$uc$ ,illu/ration4 ,price p] box1 net1 #cs4 #f;d42 po/ free1 #cs4 #i;d4 ,,illu/rations = ! ,,hi/ory ,,lesson4 ,,! 8,,sugge/ions0 ,,hi/orical ,,illu/rations4 ,by ,h4 ,w4 ,,donald4 ,illu/ration ,f\r ,sets ( ,plates conta9+ illu/rations ( ,arm\r1 ,ar*itecture1 ,pott]y1 ,musical ,in/rum5ts1 etc41 rang+ f ! "t ( ! ,anci5t ,britons to ! ,victorian era4 ,ea* set conta9s #bd c>ds4 ,,uses3 7#a7 ,to illu/rate ! ,hi/ory ,lesson4 7#b7 ,to =m ! basis ( ,conv]sational ,hi/ory ,lessons4 7#c7 ,to connect ,draw+ ) ,hi/ory4 ,,set ,a4 7#hj ,illu/rations47 ,anci5t ,britons ,romans ,danes & ,vik+s ,anglo-,saxons ,,set ,b4 7#gf ,illu/rations47 ,normans ,plantag5ets ,h\ses ( ,lanca/] ,york ,tudors ,,set ,c4 7#fe ,illu/rations47 ,tudors ,/u>ts ,hanov]ians ,,set ,d4 7#fe ,illu/rations47 ,illu/rates ,european ,hi/ory 9 ,arm\r1 ,ar*itecture1 ,dome/ic ,appliances1 ,musical ,in/rum5ts1 c4 ,price1 p] ,set1 net1 #as4 #f;d42 po/ free1 #as4 #i;d4 ,pack$ 9 /rong c>dbo>d case4 ,,hi/ory ,,tea*+ by ,,biographies4 ,by ,,alice ,,eve1 ,b4,a41 ,l4,l4,a4 ,a ,,h&book = ,,tea*]s 9 two ,volumes4 ,volume #a4 ,,julius ,c,,s> to ,sir ,,francis ,,drake4 ,volume ,,ii4 ,sir ,,walt] ,,raleigh to ,,e>l ,,rob]ts4 ,ea* volume conta9s #cj biographies4 ,! purpose ( ^! volumes is to tea* ,hi/ory by gr\p+ hi/orical facts r\nd ! lives ( fam\s m5 & wom54 ,ea* set ( notes is prec$$ by two p>agraphs1 "o giv+ ! aim ( ! ,lesson1 & ! o!r1 app>atus = use 9 connection ) x1 e4g4 ,,e>l ,,( ,,/raf=d 7,vol4 ,,ii4 xxxv473 ,aim4--,to tea* ! beg9n+ ( ! great dispute betwe5 ,k+ ,*>les ,i4 & 8 p4 ,app>atus4--,map ( ,briti% ,isl&s1 ,portraits ( ,*>les ,i41 ,/raf=d1 ,buck+ham1 ,pictures ( ,cavali]s & ,puritans ( ! "t4 ,picture ( ,we/m9/] ,hall4 ,price1 ea* volume1 net1 #cs42 po/ free1 #cs4 #d;d4 ,two volumes1 po/ free1 #fs4 #i;d4 8,britannic0 ,hi/orical ,geography ,books ,,= ,,correlat+ ,,hi/ory1 ,,geography & ,,mapp+4 7,left page7 ,,hi/orical ,,summ>y4 7,"r page7 ,,outl9e ,,map4 ,! 8,britannic0 ,hi/orical ,geography ,maps4 ,no4 #f4--,"p ,i4 ,engl& be=e ! ,norman ,conque/4 ,,! ,,*ief ,,e>ldoms4 ,on 8 asc5sion to ! ?rone ( ,engl& ,canute divid$ ! c\ntry into f\r ,gov]nm5ts1 viz43-- ,,wessex1 ,,ea/ ,,anglia1 ,,m]cia & ,,nor?umbria4 ,he took *>ge ( ,wessex himself1 & ?ree ,danes 7 plac$ z ,e>ls ov] ! o!rs4 ,,! ,,great ,,saxon ,,e>ls4 ,he aft]w>ds appo9t$ ,engli%m5 to ! gov]nm5t ( ^! ,e>ldoms3-- ,le(ric becom+ ,e>l ( ,m]cia1 ,godw91 ,e>l ( ,wessex1 & ,siw>d1 ,e>l ( ,nor?umb]l&4 ,9 ea* lesson ! hi/orical n>rative is foll[$ by notes describ+ fully ! correlat$ "w to be done 9 connection ) ! /ory4 ,illu/ration3 ,,engl& ,,at ,,! ,,conque/ 7#ajff7 %[+ ! ,e>ldoms 7,r$uc$ specim5 pages47 ,"p ,i4 ,f ! ,roman ,invasion1 ,b4,c4 #ee1 to ! ,w>s ( ! ,roses1 ,a4,d4 #adhe4 ,,maps4 ,roman ,brita94 ,! ,e>ly ,home ( ! ,engli%4 ,anglo-,saxon ,conque/4 ,saxon ,engl& 9 ! #g? c5tury4 ,engl& betwe5 ! ,danes ,saxons4 ,engl& at ! ,conque/4 ,engl& & ,norm&y4 ,dom9ions ( ! ,plantag5ets4 ,scotl& 9 #abhe ,a4,d4 ,fr5* ,campaigns4 ,f\r ,fam\s ,battles4 ,w>s ( ! ,roses4 ,"p ,,ii4 ,f ! ,tudors1 ,a4,d4 #adhe1 to ! ,crimean ,w>1 ,a4,d4 #ahef4 ,,maps4 ,m>itime ,discov]ies4 ,! ,tudors1 #adhe-afjc4 ,! ,great ,civil ,w>1 #afdb-afdh4 ,! ,revolution ( #afhh4 ,! ,jacobite ,rebellions4 ,! ,sev5 ,ye>s' ,w>4 ,! ,w> ( ,indep5d5ce4 ,engli% ,rule 9 ,india4 ,! ,p59sul> ,w>4 ,battle ( ,trafalg>4 ,! ,wat]loo ,campaign4 ,! ,crimean ,w>4 ,"p ,,iii4 ,europe #afjj-aiad4 ,,maps4 ,division ( ,t]ritory aft] #cj ye>s' ,w>4 ,europe aft] ,treaty ( ,utre*t4 ,europe aft] ,treaty ( ,p>is4 ,p>is1 ,a4,d4 #aghi4 ,campaigns ( ,a4,d4 #agib1 #agic1 #agid1 #agie #agif4 ,peace ( ,ami5s1 ,a4,d4 #ahjb4 ,europe aft] ,wagram4 ,congress ( ,vi5na ,treaty ( ,p>is4 ,c5tral ,europe1 ,a4,d4 #ahff4 ,franco-,prussian ,w>4 ,ea/]n ,europe1 ,a4,d4 #ahgh4 ,balkan ,p59sula1 #aiad4 ,,hi/ory = ! ,,juniors & ,,infants4 ,,hi/ory ,,9 ,,pictures ,,& ,,/ories4 ,by ,b4 ,m4 ,,& ,d4 ,m4 ,,asl+4 ,= ,,read+ & ,,col\r+4 7,adopt$ by ! ,london ,c\nty ,c\ncil47 ,! ,,plan4--,! /ory1 writt5 9 simple & attractive =m1 is on ! left page4 ,on ! opposite page is an outl9e draw+1 ) full p>ticul>s = col\r+1 = ! *ild to col\r4 ,! ,,aim4--,to %[ 9 /ory & picture h[ ! boys & girls liv$ & dress$ 9 ^? f>-(f days4 ,to %[ :at _! homes 7 l4 ,to provide an opportunity = comp>+ !n & n[4 ,,p]iod4--,f ! ,cave ,man to ! ,norman ,conque/4 ,,cont5ts3 ,book ,i4 ,a ,cave ,man4 ,a ,cave ,woman & h] little boy4 ,a ,pit ,dwell+ & ! ,p :o live 9 x4 ,a ,pit ,man at ,"w4 ,! ,lake ,dwell]s4 ,a man mak+ copp] spe> heads4 ,a woman gr9d+ corn4 ,book ,,ii4 ,celts & ,pho5icians ex*ang+ goods4 ,a ,pict4 ,julius ,cs> look+ at ! %ores ( ,brita94 ,! ,build+ ( ,hadrian's ,wall4 ,a ,roman ,road 9 ,brita94 ,a ,roman ,road 9 ,brita9 to-day4 ,saxons build+ a h\se 9 ,brita94 ,book ,,iii4 ,! ,com+ ( ,/4 ,augu/9e4 ,engli% ,villag]s pursu+ a ?ief 9 ! #g? c5tury4 ,! ,nor?m5 sail+ up an ,engli% riv]4 ,k+ ,alfr$ visit+ a s*ool4 ,duke ,william ( ,norm&y prep>+ to invade ,engl&4 ,a ,norman ,noble rid+ ?r\gh an ,engli% village 9 #ajff4 ,a ,norman ,manor ,h\se4 ,price1 ea*1 net1 #e;d42 po/ free1 #f;d4 ,,/ory ,,lessons ,,9 ,,hi/ory4 ,by ,,edna ,,lake4 ,an orig9al s*eme ( #bc lessons correlat+ ,hi/ory1 ,geography1 ,lit]ature & ,h&work1 cov]+ ! p]iod f ,william ,i4 to ,que5 ,elizabe?4 ,fully illu/rat$ ) designs = ,pap] or ,c>dbo>d ,modell+ & ,free ,pap] ,cutt+4 ,9 ea* lesson ! hi/orical n>rative is foll[$ by notes describ+ fully ! correlat$ "w to be done 9 connection ) ! /ory1 e4g4 ,,lesson ,,iii4--,,! ,,:ite ,,%ip4 ,,hi/ory--,! ,:ite ,%ip4 ,,geography--,! ,engli% ,*annel4 ,,language--,"s words we get f ! ,fr5*4 ,,lit]ature ,,or ,,/ory--,! ,*ur* ,build]s4 ,,composition--,%ips4 ,,*alk ,,or ,,bru% ,,draw+--,%ips4 ,,pap] ,,or ,,c>dbo>d ,,modell+--,a ,%ip4 ,,s& ,,& ,,clay ,,modell+--,a ,*ur*4 ,,free ,,pap] ,,cutt+--,a ,%ip 7#ab? c5tury74 ,price1 net1 #cs4 #i;d42 po/ free1 #ds4 #b;d4 ,complete ,catalogue ( ,publications s5t po/ free on reque/4 ,,*>les & ,,son1 ,ltd4 ,,london3 #aj1 ,pat]no/] ,squ>e4 ,e4,c4#d ,,glasg[3 #fh1 ,gordon ,/reet4