,illustration3 ,ford ,logo ,contents ,,page ,foreword #b ,the ,car and ,its ,operation #c ,the ,ford ,engine #i ,the ,ford ,cooling ,system #ag ,the ,gasoline ,system #ba ,the ,ford ,ignition ,system #be ,the ,ford ,transmission #ca ,the ,rear ,axle ,assembly #cg ,the ,ford ,muffler #ci ,the ,running ,gear #dj ,the ,ford ,lubricating ,system #df ,care of the ,tires #dh ,points on ,maintenance #ej ,the ,ford ,model ,t ,one ,ton ,truck #ea ,the ,ford ,starting and ,lighting ,system #ee ,summary of ,engine ,troubles and ,their ,causes #fa ,index #fb ,illustration3 ,ford ,the ,universal ,car ,,ford ,,manual ,for ,owners and ,operators of ,ford ,cars and ,trucks ,copyrighted #aiai by ,ford ,motor ,company ,all rights reserved ,published by ,,ford ,,motor ,,company ,detroit1 ,michigan1 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ,foreword ,it is a significant fact that nearly all ,ford cars are driven by laymen--by owners1 who in the great majority of cases have little or no practical experience with things mechanical4 ,the simplicity of the ,ford car and the ease with which it is operated renders an intimate knowledge of mechanical technicalities unnecessary for its operation4 ,and the further fact that there are more than twenty thousand ,ford service stations distributed throughout the civilized world--where adjustments and repairs may be had with no annoying delay--gives to ,ford owners a singular freedom from mechanical annoyances which beset owners of cars having limited service facilities and distribution4 ,but while it is not imperative1 it is1 however1 altogether desirable that every ,ford owner should thoroughly understand his car4 ,with such knowledge at his command he is always master of the situation--he will maintain his car more economically--prolong its usefulness--and he will also derive more pleasure from it1 for it is a truism that the more one knows about a thing the more one enjoys it4 ,the mastery of a thorough knowledge of ,ford construction is by no means a difficult or time-consuming task4 ,the ,ford is the simplest car made4 ,it is easy to understand1 and is not difficult to keep in proper adjustment and repair4 ,that the ,ford construction may be thoroughly understood--and that there may be an authoritative guide for the making of ,ford adjustments--this book is published4 ,important ,it is most important that owners of ,ford cars shall insist upon getting the genuine ,ford-made materials1 or ,parts1 when having repairs or replacements made4 ,this will be assured when the car is taken to the authorized ,ford agent4 ,imitation1 or bogus or counterfeit parts of inferior quality are being made and sold as ,ford ,parts4 ,avoid their use by dealing with the authorised ,ford agent4 ,the ,car and ,its ,operation ,what must be done before starting the ,car8 ,answer ,no4 #a ,before trying to start the car1 fill the radiator 7by removing cap at top7 with clean fresh water4 ,if perfectly clean water cannot be obtained it is advisable to strain it through muslin or other similar material to prevent foreign matter from getting in and obstructing the small tubes of the radiator4 ,the system will hold approximately three gallons4 ,it is important that the car should not be run under its own power unless the water circulating system has been filled4 ,pour in the water until you are sure that both radiator and cylinder water jackets are full4 ,the water will run out of the overflow pipe onto the ground when the entire water system has been properly filled4 ,during the first few days that a new car is being driven it is a good plan to examine the radiator frequently and see that it is kept properly filled4 ,the water supply should be replenished as often as may be found necessary4 ,soft rain water1 when it is to be had in a clean state1 is superior to hard water1 which may contain alkalies and other salts which tend to deposit sediment and clog the radiator4 7,see chapter on ,cooling ,system47 ,what about ,gasoline8 ,answer ,no4 #b ,the ten-gallon gasoline tank should be filled--nearly full--and the supply should never be allowed to get low4 ,when filling the tank be sure that there are no naked flames within several feet1 as the vapor is extremely volatile and travels rapidly4 ,always be careful about lighting matches near where gasoline has been spilled1 as the air within a radius of several feet is permeated with the highly explosive vapor4 ,the small vent hole in the gasoline tank cap should not be allowed to get plugged up1 as this would prevent proper flow of the gasoline to the carburetor4 ,the gasoline tank may be drained by opening the pet cock in the sediment bulb at the bottom4 ,how about the ,oiling ,system8 ,answer ,no4 #c ,upon receipt of the car see that a supply of medium light1 high-grade gas engine oil is poured into the crank case through the breather pipe at the front of the engine 7a metal cap covers it74 ,down under the car in the flywheel casing 7the reservoir which holds this oil7 you will find two pet cocks4 ,pour oil in slowly until it runs out of the upper cock4 ,leave the cock open until it stops running--then close it4 ,after the engine has become thoroughly limbered up1 the best results will be obtained by carrying the oil at a level midway between the two cocks--but under no circumstances should it be allowed to get below the lower cock4 ,all other parts of the car are properly oiled when it leaves the factory4 ,however1 it will be well to see that all grease cups are filled and that oil is supplied to necessary parts4 7,see ,cut ,no4 #ah1 also chapter on ,lubrication47 ,how are ,spark and ,throttle ,levers used8 ,answer ,no4 #d ,under the steering wheel are two small levers4 ,the right-hand 7throttle7 lever controls the amount of mixture 7gasoline and air7 which goes into the engine4 ,when the engine is in operation1 the farther this lever is moved downward toward the driver 7referred to as opening the throttle7 the faster the engine runs and the greater the power furnished4 ,the left-hand lever controls the spark1 which explodes the gas in the cylinders of the engine4 ,the advancing of this lever advances the spark1 and it should be moved down notch by notch until the motor seems to reach its maximum speed4 ,if the lever is advanced beyond this point a dull knock will be noticed in the engine4 7,see chapter on ,ignition47 ,illustration3 ,steering ,wheel1 showing reduction gears meshing with the teeth of the gear case and center pinion4 7,cut ,no4 #a7 ,where should these levers be when starting the ,engine8 ,answer ,no4 #e ,the spark lever should usually be put in about the third or fourth notch of the quadrant 7the notched half-circle on which the levers operate74 ,the throttle should usually be opened about five or six notches4 ,a little experience will soon teach you where these levers should be placed for proper starting4 ,care should be taken not to advance the spark lever too far1 as the engine may back kick4 ,what else is necessary before starting the ,engine8 ,answer ,no4 #f ,first1 see that the hand lever1 which comes up through the floor of the car at the left of the driver1 is pulled back as far as it will go4 ,the lever in this position holds the clutch in neutral and engages the hub brake1 thus preventing the car moving forward when the engine is started4 ,second1 after inserting the switch key in the switch on the coil box1 throw the switch lever as far to the left as it will go--to the point marked magneto4 ,this switch connects the magneto with the engine4 ,the engine can't be started until it is on--and the throwing off of this switch stops the engine4 ,how is the ,engine started8 ,answer ,no4 #g ,if the car is not equipped with a starter the engine is started by the lifting of the starting crank at the front of the car4 ,take hold of the handle and push firmly toward the car till you feel the crank ratchet engage1 then lift upward with a quick swing4 ,with a little experience this operation wall become an easy matter4 ,don't1 as a usual thing1 crank downward against the compression--for then an early explosion may drive the handle vigorously backward4 ,this does not mean however1 that it is not advisable1 when the car is hard to start1 to occasionally spin the engine by the use of the starting handle--but be sure the spark lever is retarded when spinning or cranking the engine against compression1 otherwise a sudden backfire may injure the arm of the operator4 ,when the engine is cool it is advisable to prime the carburetor by pulling on the small wire at the lower left corner of the radiator while giving the engine two or three quarter turns with the starting handle4 ,if the car is equipped with a starter the spark and throttle levers should be placed in the same position on the quadrant as when cranking by hand1 and the ignition switch turned on4 ,current from either battery or magneto may be used for ignition4 ,however1 we recommend that the magneto be used at all times4 ,the magneto was designed to furnish ignition for the ,model ,t engine and better results will be obtained by operating in this way4 ,special attention must be paid to the position of the spark lever as a too advanced spark will cause serious backfiring which in turn will bend or break the shaft in the starter4 ,the starting motor is operated by a push button1 conveniently located in the floor of the car at the driver's feet4 ,with the spark and throttle levers in the proper position1 and the ignition switch turned on1 press on the push button with the foot4 ,this closes the circuit between the battery and starting motor1 causing the pinion of the ,bendix drive shaft to engage with the teeth on the flywheel1 thus turning over the crankshaft4 ,when the engine is cold it may be necessary to prime it by pulling out the carburetor priming rod1 which is located on the instrument board4 ,in order to avoid flooding the engine with an over rich mixture of gas1 the priming rod should only be held out for a few seconds at a time4 ,how is the ,engine best started in cold weather8 ,answer ,no4 #h ,as gasoline does not vaporize readily in cold weather it is naturally more difficult to start the motor under such conditions4 ,the usual method of starting the engine when cold is to turn the carburetor dash adjustment one-quarter turn to the left in order to allow a richer mixture of gasoline to be drawn into the cylinders2 then hold out the priming rod1 while you turn crank from six to eight one-quarter turns in quick succession1 or turn the motor over a few times with the starter4 ,another method of starting a troublesome cold engine is as follows3 ,before you throw on the magneto switch1 7#a7 close throttle lever2 7#b7 hold out priming rod while you give crank several quick turns1 or turn the motor over a few times with the starter1 then let go of priming rod 7being careful that it goes back all the way72 7#c7 place spark lever in about third notch and advance throttle lever several notches2 7#d7 throw on switch 7being sure to get it on side marked ,magneto72 7#e7 give crank one or two turns1 or close the starting switch1 and the motor should start4 ,after starting the motor it is advisable to advance the spark eight or ten notches on the quadrant and let the motor run until thoroughly heated up4 ,if you start out with a cold motor you will not have much power and are liable to stall4 ,the advantage of turning on the switch last1 or after priming1 is that when you throw on the switch and start the motor1 you have plenty of gas in the cylinders1 to keep the motor running1 thereby eliminating the trouble of the motor starting and stopping4 ,after motor is warmed up turn carburetor adjustment back one-quarter turn4 ,to facilitate starting many drivers make a practice of stopping their engine by pulling out on the priming rod1 which has the effect of shutting off the air suction and filling the cylinders full of a very rich gasoline vapor4 ,this should not be done unless the car is going to stand over night or long enough to cool off4 ,if the motor is stopped in this way and then started when hot1 starting is apt to be difficult on account of the surplus gasoline in the carburetor4 ,what function does the ,hand ,lever perform8 ,answer ,no4 #i ,its chief purpose is to hold the clutch in neutral position4 ,if it were not for this lever the driver would have to stop the engine whenever he left the driver's seat4 ,he would also be unable to crank the engine without the car starting forward with the first explosion4 ,when pulled back as far as it will go1 the hand lever acts as an emergency brake on the rear wheels1 by expanding the brake shoes in the rear wheel drums4 ,therefore the hand lever should be back as far as it will go when cranking the engine or when the car is at rest4 ,it should be only in a vertical position1 and not far enough backward to act as a brake on the rear wheels1 when the car is to be reversed4 ,when the car is operating in high or low speed the hand lever should be all the way forward4 ,how do the ,foot ,pedals operate8 ,answer ,no4 #aj ,the first one toward the left operates the clutch4 ,when pressed forward the clutch pedal engages the low speed4 ,when half-way forward the clutch is in neutral 7i4 e41 disconnected from the driving mechanism of the rear wheels71 and the releasing of this pedal engages the high-speed clutch4 ,the center pedal operates the reverse4 ,the right-hand pedal operates the transmission brake4 ,how is the ,car started8 ,answer ,no4 #aa ,slightly accelerate the engine by opening the throttle1 press the clutch pedal half way forward1 thereby holding the clutch in a neutral position while throwing the hand lever forward2 then press the pedal forward into slow speed and when under sufficient headway 7#bj to #cj feet71 allow the pedal to drop back slowly into high speed1 at the same time partially closing the throttle1 which will allow the engine to pick up its load easily4 ,with a little practice1 the change of speeds will be easily accomplished1 and without any appreciable effect on the smooth running of the machine4 ,how is the ,car stopped8 ,answer ,no4 #ab ,partially close the throttle2 release the high speed by pressing the clutch pedal forward into neutral2 apply the foot brake slowly but firmly until the car comes to a dead stop4 ,do not remove foot from the clutch pedal without first pulling the hand lever back to neutral position1 or the engine will stall4 ,to stop the motor1 open the throttle a trifle to accelerate the motor and then throw off the switch4 ,the engine will then stop with the cylinders full of explosive gas1 which will naturally facilitate starting4 ,endeavor to so familiarize yourself with the operation of the car that to disengage the clutch and apply the brake becomes practically automatic--the natural thing to do in case of emergency4 ,how is the ,car reversed8 ,answer ,no4 #ac ,it must be brought to a dead stop4 ,with the engine running1 disengage the clutch with the hand lever and press the reverse pedal forward with the left foot1 the right foot being free to use on the brake pedal if needed4 ,do not bring the hand lever back too far or you will set the brakes on rear wheels4 ,experienced drivers ordinarily reverse the car by simply holding the clutch pedal in neutral with the left foot1 and operating the reverse pedal with the right4 ,how is the ,spark controlled8 ,answer ,no4 #ad ,by the left-hand lever under the steering wheel4 ,good operators drive with the spark lever advanced just as far as the engine will permit4 ,however1 advancing the spark too far will cause a dull knock in the motor1 due to the fact that the explosion occurs too early4 ,the spark should only be retarded when the engine slows down on a heavy road or steep grade1 but care should be exercised not to retard the spark too far as this will result in late ignition1 which causes loss of power and overheating of the motor and may also result in warped1 burned or cracked valves4 ,learn to operate the spark as the occasion demands4 ,the greatest economy in gasoline consumption is obtained by driving with the spark advanced sufficiently to obtain the maximum speed4 ,how is speed of ,car controlled8 ,answer ,no4 #ae ,the different speeds required to meet road conditions are obtained by opening or closing the throttle4 ,practically all the running speeds needed for ordinary travel are obtained on high gear1 and it is seldom necessary to use the low gear except to give the car momentum in starting4 ,the speed of the car may be temporarily slackened in driving through crowded traffic1 turning corners1 etc41 by slipping the clutch1 i4 e41 pressing the clutch pedal forward into neutral4 ,is it advisable for owners to make their own ,adjustments8 ,answer ,no4 #af ,the ,ford is the simplest of all cars4 ,most of the ordinary adjustments an owner will soon learn to make for himself4 ,but we must strongly recommend that when it becomes necessary to employ the services of a mechanic1 the car be taken to a ,ford mechanic--one of our own representatives who thoroughly understands the car--and who will have no motive for running up useless repair bills4 ,the entire ,ford organization is interested in keeping every individual ,ford car in constant operation1 at the lowest possible cost4 ,we have known of much damage done to many cars by unskilled repair men4 ,what attention does the ,car need8 ,answer ,no4 #ag ,remember that a new machine requires more careful attention during the first few days it is being driven than after the parts have become thoroughly worked in4 ,the car which is driven slowly and carefully when new usually gives the most satisfactory service in the end4 ,never start out with your car until you are sure that is has plenty of oil and water4 ,frequently inspect the running gear4 ,see that no unnecessary play exists in either front or rear wheels1 and that all bolts and nuts are tight4 ,make a practice of taking care of every repair or adjustment as soon as its necessity is discovered4 ,this attention requires but little time and may avoid delay or possible accident on the road4 ,we aim to deliver the car in proper mechanical adjustment4 ,afterwards it is plainly the duty of the driver to keep it in that condition4 ,the ,ford ,engine ,what is the principle of the gasoline-driven ,engine8 ,answer ,no4 #ah ,gasoline when mixed with air and compressed is highly explosive4 ,an explosion is a violent expansion caused by instantaneous combustion of confined gases4 ,in the gasoline engine the mixture is drawn into a cylinder1 where it is compressed by an advancing piston and then exploded by an electric spark1 which sends the piston downward1 and through the connecting rod imparts a rotary motion to the crankshaft4 7,see ,cut ,no4 #b47 ,what are the functions of the ,pistons8 ,answer ,no4 #ai ,on the downward stroke the suction of the piston draws the fresh gas from the carburetor1 through the inlet pipe and valve1 into the cylinder4 ,the upward movement of the piston compresses the gas into a very small space1 between the top of the piston and the depression in the cylinder head1 known as the combustion chamber4 7,the compressed gases exert a pressure of approximately #fj pounds per square inch47 ,at this point the electric spark1 generated by the magneto1 explodes the gases--driving the piston downward--thus producing the power which turns the crank shaft4 ,on the next stroke upward the piston drives the exploded gas out through the exhaust valve and pipe to the muffler4 7,see ,cut ,no4 #c47 ,connecting ,rod--how removed8 ,answer ,no4 #bj ,it is a steel rod1 connecting piston and crank shaft4 ,should the babbitt bearing become worn1 or burned out through lack of oil1 a knocking in the engine will result in which case the entire connecting rod should be replaced4 ,to make this replacement1 7#a7 drain oil from crank case2 7#b7 take off cylinder head2 7#c7 remove detachable plate on bottom of crank case2 7#d7 disconnect connecting rod from crank shaft2 7#e7 take piston and rod out through top of cylinder4 ,what is the ,valve ,arrangement8 ,answer ,no4 #ba ,one intake and one exhaust valve are located in each cylinder4 ,the former admits the fresh gas drawn from the carburetor through the inlet pipe--the latter permits the exploded gas to be driven out through the exhaust pipe4 ,the valves are alternately opened and closed 7see ,cut ,no4 #c7 by the cams on the cam shaft striking against push rods which in turn lift the valves from their seats4 ,what about ,valve timing8 ,answer ,no4 #bb ,in timing the engine the points of opening and closing of the valves are1 of course1 what should be considered4 ,as the valves are properly timed at the factory when the engine is built the necessity for retiming would occur only when such parts as the cam shaft1 time gears or valves were removed in overhauling the engine4 ,illustration3 ,sectional ,view of the ,model ,t ,motor4 7,cut ,no4 #b7 ,illustration3 ,cylinder ,assembly1 showing the correct position of the valves with time gears properly set according to punch marks on the gears1 also the relative position of the pistons in their strokes as indicated above4 ,the firing order of the cylinders is #a1 #b1 #d1 #c4 7,cut ,no4 #c7 ,in fitting the large time gear to the cam shaft it is important to see that the first cam points in a direction opposite to the zero mark 7see ,cut ,no4 #c74 ,the time gears must also mesh so that the tooth marked zero 7#j7 on the small time gear will come between the two teeth on the large gear at the zero point4 ,the time gears now being properly set1 the exhaust valve on ,no4 #a cylinder is open and the intake valve closed1 the other valves being in the position indicated in ,cut ,no4 #c4 ,the opening and closing of the valves being as follows3 ,the exhaust valve opens when the piston reaches #e_/af of bottom center1 the distance from the top of the piston head to the top of cylinder casting measuring #c4 ,the exhaust valve will close on top centre1 the piston being #e_/af above the cylinder casting4 ,the intake valve opens #a_/af after top center1 and closes #i_/af after bottom center1 the distance from the top of the piston to the top of the cylinder casting measuring #c4 ,illustration3 ,how the valve lifting tool should be used4 7,cut ,no4 #d7 ,the clearance between the push rod and valve stem should never be greater than #a_/cb nor less than #a_/fd4 ,the correct clearance is naturally half way between these two measurements4 ,the gap should be measured when the push rod is on the heel of the cam4 ,what about the care of the ,valves8 ,answer ,no4 #bc ,they seldom get out of order--but they do get dirty1 as a result of carbon collecting on the valve seats4 ,these carbon deposits by preventing proper closing of the valves1 permit the gases under compression to escape1 resulting in loss of power and uneven running of the motor4 ,if1 when turning the engine over slowly1 there is a lack of resistance in one or more cylinders1 it is probable that the valves need re-grinding4 ,as the life of the engine depends largely upon the proper seating of the valves1 it is necessary that they be ground occasionally4 ,how are ,valves removed for grinding8 ,answer ,no4 #bd 7#a7 ,drain radiator2 7#b7 remove cylinder head2 7#c7 remove the two valve covers on the right side of engine2 7#d7 raise the valve spring with lifting tool 7see ,cut ,no4 #d7 and pull out the little pin under the valve seat4 ,the valve may then be lifted out by the head4 ,how are ,valves ground8 ,answer ,no4 #be ,for this work use a good grinding paste of ground glass and oil--procurable from auto supply houses4 ,a convenient way is to put a small amount in a suitable dish1 adding a spoonful or two of kerosene and a few drops of lubricating oil to make a thin paste4 ,illustration3 ,method of grinding valve4 7,cut ,no4 #e7 ,place the mixture sparingly on the bevel face of the valve4 ,put the valve in position on the valve seat1 and rotate it back and forth 7about a quarter turn7 a few times1 with a ,ford grinding tool4 ,then lift slightly from the seat1 change the position and continue the rotation1 and keep on repeating this operation until the bearing surface is smooth and bright4 ,the valve should not be turned through a complete revolution1 as this is apt to cause scratches running around the entire circumference of the valve and seat4 ,when the grinding is completed the valve should be removed from the cylinder1 thoroughly washed with kerosene1 and the valve seat wiped out thoroughly4 ,extreme care should be taken that no abrasive substance gets into the cylinders or valve guides4 ,this can be avoided if the grinding paste is applied sparingly to the bevel face of the valve4 ,if the valve seat is worn badly or seamed1 it is best to have it reseated with a valve seating tool4 ,this operation requires considerable skill1 and perhaps had better be done by an expert mechanic4 ,care should be exercised against making too deep a cut1 necessitating the retiming of the valve4 ,when the ,valves and ,push ,rods are worn--what8 ,answer ,no4 #bf ,when the valves or push rods become worn1 so as to leave too much play between them1 thus reducing the lift of the valves and diminishing the power of the motor1 it is best to replace the push rods with new ones4 ,the clearance between the push rods and the valve stem should never be greater than #a_/cb nor less than #a_/fd4 ,if the clearance is greater1 the valve will open late and close early1 resulting in uneven running of the motor4 ,if the clearance is less than #a_/fd there is danger of the valve remaining partially open all the time4 ,if replacing the push rod does not give the proper clearance1 the valve should also be replaced4 ,we do not recommend drawing out the valve stem1 as the operation requires experience and the price of the new part does not warrant the time and expense necessary to properly do the work4 ,what about the ,valve ,springs8 ,answer ,no4 #bg ,when the valves fail to seat themselves properly1 there is a possibility that the springs may be weak or broken4 ,a weak inlet spring would probably not affect the running of the engine1 but weakness in the exhaust valve spring causes a very uneven action1 which is difficult to locate4 ,the symptoms area lag in the engine due to the exhaust valve not closing instantaneously1 and as a result a certain percentage of the charge under compression escapes1 greatly diminishing the force of the explosion4 ,weakness in a valve spring can usually be detected by the following method3 ,remove the plate which encloses them at the side of the cylinder and insert a screw driver between the coils of the spring while the engine is running4 ,if the extra tension thus produced causes the engine to pick up speed1 the spring is obviously weak and should be replaced with a new one4 ,what cause ,knocking in the ,engine8 ,answer ,no4 #bh ,there are several causes1 which may be enumerated as follows3 7#a7 carbon knock--which is by far the most common--resulting from carbonizing of cylinders2 7#b7 knock caused by a too advanced spark2 7#c7 connecting rod knock2 7#d7 crank shaft main bearing knock2 7#e7 knock due to loose-fitting piston or broken ring2 7#f7 knock caused by the piston striking the cylinder head gasket4 ,when the engine knocks from any cause whatsoever1 the matter should be promptly investigated by an experienced mechanic and the difficulty corrected4 ,how may the different ,knocks be distinguished8 ,answer ,no4 #bi 7#a7 ,the carbon knock is a clear1 hollow sound1 most noticeable in climbing sharp grades1 particularly when the engine is heated4 ,it is also indicated by a sharp rap immediately on advancing the throttle4 7#b7 ,too advanced spark will be indicated by a dull knock in the motor4 7#c7 ,the connecting rod knock sounds like the distant tapping of steel with a small hammer1 and is readily distinguished when the car is allowed to run idly down grade--or upon speeding the car to twenty-five miles an hour1 then suddenly closing the throttle1 the tapping will be very distinct4 7#d7 ,the crank shaft main bearing knock can be distinguished1 when the car is going uphill1 as a dull thud4 7#e7 ,the loose piston knock is heard only upon suddenly opening the throttle1 when the sound produced might be likened to a rattle4 ,the remedies for these knocks are treated under their proper division4 ,how is carbon removed from ,combustion ,chamber8 ,answer ,no4 #cj ,first1 drain the water off by opening the pet cock at the bottom of the radiator2 then disconnect the wires at the top of the motor and also the radiator connection attached to the radiator4 ,remove the #ae cap screws which hold the cylinder head in place4 ,take off the cylinder head and1 with a putty knife or screw driver1 scrape the carbonized matter from the cylinder head and top of pistons1 being careful to prevent the specks of carbon from getting into the cylinders or bolt holes4 ,in replacing the cylinder head gasket turn the motor over so that ,no4 #a and ,no4 #d pistons are at top center2 place the gasket in position over the pistons and then put the cylinder head in place4 ,be sure and draw the cylinder head bolts down evenly 7i4 e41 give each bolt a few turns at a time72 do not tighten them on one end before drawing them up at the other4 ,how are ,spark ,plugs cleaned8 ,answer ,no4 #ca ,after removing the plug from the engine the points may be cleaned with an old tooth-brush dipped in gasoline4 ,however1 in order to do the work thoroughly1 the plug should be taken apart by securing the large hexagon steel shell in a vise and loosening the pack nut which holds the porcelain in place4 ,the carbon deposits can then be easily removed from the porcelain and shell with a small knife4 ,care should be exercised not to scrape off the glazed surface of the porcelain1 otherwise it will be apt to carbonize quickly4 ,the porcelain and other parts should finally be washed in gasoline and wiped dry with a cloth4 ,in assembling the plug care should be taken to see that the pack nut is not tightened too much so as to crack the porcelain1 and the distance between the sparking points should be #a_/cb1 about the thickness of a smooth dime4 ,dirty plugs usually result from an excess of oil being carried in the crank case--or from using oil of poor quality4 ,how is the ,power ,plant removed from the ,car8 ,answer ,no4 #cb 7#a7 ,drain the water out of the radiator and disconnect the radiator hose2 7#b7 disconnect the radiator stay rod which holds it to the dash2 7#c7 take out the two bolts which fasten the radiator to the frame and take radiator off2 7#d7 disconnect the dash at the two supporting brackets which rest on the frame2 7#e7 loosen the steering post bracket1 fastened to the frame1 when the dash and steering gear may be removed as one assembly--the wires first having been disconnected2 7#f7 take out the bolts holding the front radius rods in the socket underneath the crank case2 7#g7 remove the four bolts at the universal joint2 7#h7 remove pans on either side of cylinder casting and turn off gasoline1 disconnect feed pipe from carburetor2 7#i7 disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust pipe by unscrewing large brass pack nut2 7#aj7 take out the two cap screws which hold the crank case to the front frame2 7#aa7 remove the bolts which hold the crank case arms to the frame at the side4 ,then pass a rope through the opening between the two middle cylinders and tie in a loose knot4 ,through the rope pass a #bx#d1 or a stout iron pipe about ten feet long1 and let a man hold each end2 let a third man take hold of the starting crank handle1 when the whole power plant can be lifted from the car to the work bench for adjustment4 ,connecting ,rod ,bearings--how adjusted8 ,answer ,no4 #cc ,connecting rod bearings may be adjusted1 without taking out the engine1 by the following method3 7#a7 drain off the oil2 7#b7 remove plate on bottom of crank case--exposing connecting rods2 7#c7 take off first connecting rod cap1 and draw-file the ends--a very little at a time2 7#d7 replace cap1 being careful to see that file marks correspond1 and tighten bolts until it fits shaft snugly2 7#e7 test tightness of bearing by turning engine over by the starting handle4 ,experienced mechanics usually determine when the bearing is properly fitted by lightly tapping each side of the cap with a hammer2 7#f7 then loosen the bearing and proceed to fit the other bearings in the same manner2 7#g7 after each bearing has been properly fitted and tested--then tighten the cap bolts and the work is finished4 ,remember1 there is a possibility of getting the bearings too tight1 and under such conditions the babbitt is apt to cut out quickly1 unless precaution is taken to run the motor slowly at the start4 ,it is a good plan after adjusting the bearings to jack up the rear wheels and let the motor run slowly for about two hours 7keeping it well supplied with water and oil7 before taking it out on the road4 ,whenever possible these bearings should be fitted by an expert ,ford mechanic4 ,worn connecting rods may be returned1 prepaid1 to the nearest dealer or branch house for exchange at a price of #a4jj each to cover the cost of rebabbitting4 ,it is not advisable for any owner or repair shop to attempt the rebabbitting of connecting rods or main bearings1 for without a special jig in which to form the bearings1 satisfactory results will not be obtained4 ,the constant tapping of a loose connecting rod on the crank shaft will eventually produce crystallization of the steel--result1 broken crank shaft and possibly other parts of the engine damaged4 ,crank ,shaft ,main ,bearings--how adjusted8 ,answer ,no4 #cd ,should the stationary bearings in which the crank shaft revolves become worn 7evidenced by a pounding in the motor7 and need replacing or adjusting1 proceed as follows3 7#a7 ,after the engine has been taken out of the car1 remove crank case1 transmission cover1 cylinder head1 pistons1 connecting rods1 transmission and magneto coils4 ,take off the three babbitted caps and clean the bearing surfaces with gasoline4 ,apply ,prussian blue or red lead to the crank shaft bearing surfaces1 which will enable you1 in fitting the caps1 to determine whether a perfect bearing surface is obtained4 7#b7 ,place the rear cap in position and tighten it up as much as possible without stripping the bolt threads4 ,when the bearing has been properly fitted1 the crank shaft can be turned with one hand4 ,if the crank shaft cannot be turned with one hand1 the contact between the bearing surfaces is evidently too close1 and the cap requires shimming up1 one or two brass liners usually being sufficient4 ,in case the crank shaft moves too easily with one hand1 the shims should be removed and the steel surface of the cap filed off1 permitting it to set closer4 7#c7 ,after removing the cap1 observe whether the blue or red spottings indicate a full bearing the length of the cap4 ,if spottings do not show a true bearing1 the babbitt should be scraped and the cap refitted until the proper results are obtained4 7#d7 ,lay the rear cap aside and proceed to adjust the center bearing in the same manner4 ,repeat the operation with the front bearing1 with the other two bearings laid aside4 7#e7 ,when the proper adjustment of each bearing has been obtained1 clean the babbitt surface carefully and place a little lubricating oil on the bearings1 also on the crank shaft2 then draw the caps up as closely as possible--the necessary shims1 of course1 being in place4 ,do not be afraid of getting the cap bolts too tight1 as the shim under the cap and the oil between the bearing surfaces will prevent the metal being drawn into too close contact4 ,if oil is not put on the bearing surfaces1 the babbitt is apt to cut out when the motor is started up before the oil in the crank case can get into the bearing4 ,in replacing the crank case and transmission cover on the motor1 it is advisable to use a new set of gaskets to prevent oil leaks4 ,the ,ford ,cooling ,system ,how is the ,engine cooled8 ,answer ,no4 #ce ,the heat generated by the constant explosions in the engine would soon overheat and ruin the engine1 were it not cooled by some artificial means4 ,the ,ford engine is cooled by the circulation of water in jackets around the cylinders4 ,the heat is extracted from the water by its passing through the thin metal tubing of the radiator--to which are attached scientifically worked out fins1 which assist in the rapid radiation of the heat4 ,the fan1 just back of the radiator1 sucks the air around the tubing--around which the air is also driven by the forward movement of the car4 ,the belt should be inspected frequently and tightened when necessary--not too tight1 however--by means of the adjusting screw in the fan bracket4 ,take up the slack till the fan starts to bind when turned by hand4 ,how does the ,water circulate8 ,answer ,no4 #cf ,the cooling apparatus of the ,ford car is known as the ,thermo-syphon system4 ,it acts on the principle that hot water seeks a higher level than cold water--consequently when the water reaches a certain heat1 approximately #ahj degrees ,fahrenheit1 circulation commences and the water flows from the lower radiator outlet pipe up through the water jackets1 into the upper radiator water tank1 and down through the tubes to the lower tank1 to repeat the process4 ,what are the causes of ,overheating8 ,answer ,no4 #cg 7#a7 ,carbonized cylinders2 7#b7 too much driving on low speed2 7#c7 spark retarded too far2 7#d7 poor ignition2 7#e7 not enough or poor grade oil2 7#f7 racing motor2 7#g7 clogged muffler2 7#h7 improper carburetor adjustment2 7#i7 fan not working properly on account of broken or slipping belt2 7#aj7 improper circulation of water due to clogged or jammed radiator tubes1 leaky connections or low water4 ,what should be done when the ,radiator overheats8 ,answer ,no4 #ch ,keep the radiator full4 ,don't get alarmed if it boils occasionally--especially in driving through mud and deep sand or up long hills in extremely warm weather4 ,remember that the engine develops the greatest efficiency when the water is heated nearly to the boiling point4 ,but if there is persistent overheating when the motor is working under ordinary conditions--find the cause of the trouble and remedy it4 ,the chances are that the difficulty lies in improper driving or carbonized cylinders4 ,perhaps twisting the fan blades at a greater angle to produce more suction may bring desired results4 ,by reference to the proper division of this book each of the causes which contribute to an overheated radiator is treated and remedies suggested4 ,no trouble can result from the filling of a heated radiator with cold water--providing the water system is not entirely empty--in which case the motor should be allowed to cool before the cold water is introduced4 ,how about cleaning the ,radiator8 ,answer ,no4 #ci ,the entire circulating system should be thoroughly flushed out occasionally4 ,to do this properly1 the radiator inlet and outlet hose should be disconnected1 and the radiator flushed out by allowing the water to enter the filler neck at ordinary pressure1 from whence it will flow down through the tubes and out at the drain cock and hose4 ,the water jackets can be flushed out in the same manner4 ,simply allow the water to enter into the cylinder head connection and to flow through the water jackets and out at the side inlet connection4 ,illustration3 ,the ,thermo-,syphon ,cooling ,system1 showing course of water through water passages4 7,cut ,no4 #f7 ,will the ,radiator freeze in winter8 ,answer ,no4 #dj ,yes1 unless an anti-freezing solution is used in the circulating system you are bound to experience trouble4 ,as the circulation does not commence until the water becomes heated1 it is apt to freeze at low temperature before it commences to circulate4 ,in case any of the radiator tubes happen to be plugged or jammed they are bound to freeze and burst open if the driver undertakes to get along without using a non-freezing solution4 ,wood or denatured alcohol can be used to good advantage4 ,the following table gives the freezing points of solutions containing different percentages of alcohol3 #bj solution freezes at #ae degrees above zero4 #cj solution freezes at #h degrees below zero1 #ej solution freezes at #cd degrees below zero4 ,a solution composed of #fj water1 #aj glycerine and #cj alcohol is commonly used1 its freezing point being about #h degrees below zero4 ,on account of evaporation fresh alcohol must be added frequently in order to maintain the proper solution4 ,how are leaks and jams in the ,radiator repaired8 ,answer ,no4 #da ,a small leak may be temporarily repaired by applying brown soap or white lead--but the repair should be made permanent with solder as soon as possible4 ,a jammed radiator tube is a more serious affair4 ,while the stopping of one tube does not seriously interfere with the circulation1 it is bound to cause trouble sooner or later--and the tube will freeze in cold weather4 ,cut the tube an inch above and below the jam and insert a new piece1 soldering the connections4 ,if the entire radiator is badly jammed or broken it would probably be advisable to install a new one4 ,illustration3 ,this cut illustrates the principle of ,ford ,carburetion4 7,cut ,no4 #g7 ,the ,gasoline ,system ,the ,carburetor--how does it work8 ,answer ,no4 #db ,the carburetor is of the automatic float feed type1 having but one adjustment--the gasoline needle valve4 ,the cross-section diagram of carburetor on page #bj shows how the gasoline enters the carburetor1 is vaporized by a current of air and passes through the inlet pipe to the engine in the form of an explosive mixture4 ,the gasoline1 entering the bowl of the carburetor1 gradually raises the float to a point where the inlet needle is forced upwards into its seat1 thus cutting off the flow of gasoline4 ,as the gasoline in the bowl recedes1 the float lowers1 allowing the needle to drop from its seat and the flow of gasoline is resumed4 ,it is plain to see that a constant level of gasoline is maintained in the carburetor by the automatic action of float and needle4 ,the quantity of gasoline entering into the mixture is governed by the needle valve 7see ,answer ,no4 #de74 ,the volume of gas mixture entering the intake pipe is controlled by opening and closing the throttle1 according to the speed desired by the driver4 ,why is ,carburetor adjustment placed on the dash8 ,answer ,no4 #dc ,for the convenience of the driver in adjusting the carburetor4 ,after the new car has become thoroughly worked in1 the driver should observe the angle of the carburetor adjusting rod at which the engine runs most satisfactorily4 ,in cold weather it will probably be found necessary to turn the dash adjustment one-quarter turn to the left1 particularly in starting a cold engine4 ,as gasoline vaporizes readily in warm weather1 the driver will find it economical to reduce the quantity of gasoline in the mixture by turning the carburetor adjustment to the right as far as possible without reducing speed4 ,this is particularly true when taking long drives where conditions permit a fair rate of speed being maintained1 and accounts for the excellent gasoline mileage obtained by good drivers4 ,what is meant by a lean and a rich ,mixture8 ,answer ,no4 #dd ,a lean mixture has too much air and not enough gasoline4 ,a rich mixture has too much gasoline and not enough air4 ,a rich mixture will not only quickly cover the cylinders1 pistons and valves with carbon1 but will tend to overheat the cylinders1 and is likewise wasteful of the fuel4 ,it will often choke the engine and cause misfiring at slow speeds1 although at high speeds the machine will run perfectly4 ,the mixture should be kept as lean as possible without the sacrifice of any of the power of the motor4 ,a lean mixture will often result in backfiring through the carburetor1 for the reason that the gas burns slowly in the cylinder1 and is still burning when the inlet valve opens again1 which causes the gas in the intake to ignite4 ,a rich mixture is shown by heavy1 black exhaust smoke with a disagreeable smell4 ,proper mixture will cause very little smoke or odor4 ,how is the ,carburetor adjusted8 ,answer ,no4 #de ,the usual method of regulating the carburetor is to start the motor1 advancing the throttle lever to about the sixth notch1 with the spark retarded to about the fourth notch4 ,the flow of gasoline should now be cut off by screwing the needle valve down to the right until the engine begins to misfire1 then gradually increase the gasoline feed by opening the needle valve until the motor picks up and reaches its highest speed and no trace of black smoke comes from the exhaust4 ,whenever it is necessary to turn the adjusting needle down more than a quarter turn below its normal position1 the lock nut on top of the carburetor at the point through which needle passes should first be loosened1 as otherwise it is impossible to tell when the needle is turned down in its seat too far4 ,turning the needle down too tightly will result in its becoming grooved and the seat enlarged4 ,when these parts are damaged it is difficult to maintain proper adjustment of the carburetor4 ,having determined the point where the motor runs at its maximum speed1 the needle valve lock nut should be tightened to prevent the adjustment being disturbed4 ,for average running1 a lean mixture will give better results than a rich one4 ,why does water clog the ,carburetor8 ,answer ,no4 #df ,the presence of water in the carburetor or gasoline tank1 even in small amounts1 will prevent easy starting and the motor will misfire and stop4 ,as water is heavier than gasoline it settles to the bottom of the tank and into the sediment bulb along with other foreign matter4 ,as it is difficult nowadays to get gasoline absolutely free from impurities1 especially water1 it is advisable to frequently drain the sediment bulb under the gasoline tank4 ,during cold weather the water which accumulates in the sediment bulb is likely to freeze and prevent the flow of gasoline through the pipe leading to the carburetor4 ,should anything of this kind happen it is possible to open the gasoline line by wrapping a cloth around the sediment bulb and keeping it saturated with hot water for a short time4 ,then the water should be drained off4 ,in event the water gets down into the carburetor and freezes1 the same treatment may be applied4 ,what makes the ,carburetor leak8 ,answer ,no4 #dg ,the flow of gasoline entering the carburetor through the feed pipe is automatically regulated by the float needle raising and lowering in its seat4 ,should any particle of dirt become lodged in the seat1 which prevents the needle from closing1 the gasoline will overflow in the bowl of the carburetor and leak out upon the ground4 ,when there is dirt in the ,carburetor--what8 ,answer ,no4 #dh ,the spraying nozzle of the carburetor having a very small opening1 a minute particle of grit or other foreign matter will clog up the orifice1 and result3 motor will begin to misfire and slow down as soon as it has attained any considerable speed4 ,this is accounted for by the fact that at high speeds the increased suction will draw the particles of dust1 etc41 into the nozzle4 ,by opening the valve needle half a turn and giving the throttle lever two or three quick pulls the dirt or sediment will often be drawn through1 when the needle may be turned back to its original place4 ,if this does not accomplish the purpose1 the carburetor should be drained4 ,if ,engine runs too fast or chokes with throttle retarded--what8 ,answer ,no4 #di ,if the engine runs too fast with throttle fully retarded unscrew the carburetor throttle lever adjusting screw until the engine idles at suitable speed4 ,if the motor chokes and stops when throttle is fully retarded the adjusting screw should be screwed in until it strikes the boss1 preventing the throttle from closing too far4 ,when proper adjustment has been made1 tighten lock-screw so that adjustment will not be disturbed4 ,what is the purpose of the ,hot ,air ,pipe8 ,answer ,no4 #ej ,it takes the hot air from around the exhaust pipe and conducts it to the carburetor--where the heat facilitates the vaporizing of the gasoline4 ,it is usually advisable to remove this pipe in the hot season--but it is an absolutely necessary feature during cold weather4 ,what is the purpose of the ,cork ,float8 ,answer ,no4 #ea ,it automatically controls the flow of the gasoline into the carburetor4 ,if it floats too low1 starting will be difficult2 if too high1 the carburetor will flood and leak4 ,a cork float which has become fuel soaked should be removed and replaced by a new one or thoroughly dried and then given a couple of coats of liquid shellac to make it waterproof4 ,should ,priming ,rod be used in starting when ,motor is warm8 ,answer ,no4 #eb ,no4 ,the carburetor does not ordinarily require priming when the motor is warm1 and starting with the rod pulled out is apt to flood the engine with an over-rich mixture of gas1 which does not readily explode4 ,this naturally causes difficulty in starting4 ,if you should accidentally flood the engine1 turn the carburetor adjusting needle down 7to the right7 until it seats2 then turn the engine over a few times in order to exhaust the rich gas4 ,as soon as the motor starts1 turn back the needle 7to the left7 and readjust the carburetor4 ,illustration3 ,wiring of ,ford ,ignition ,system4 7,cut ,no4 #h7 ,the ,ford ,ignition ,system ,what is the purpose of the ,ignition ,system8 ,answer ,no4 #ec ,it furnishes the electric spark which explodes the charge in the combustion chamber1 thus producing the power which runs the engine4 ,it is important that the charge be correctly ignited at the proper time1 in order to obtain satisfactory results in running the car4 ,in the ,ford car the ignition system is as simple as it is possible for human invention to make it4 ,how does the ,magneto generate the current8 ,answer ,no4 #ed ,in revolving at the same rate of speed as the motor1 the magnets on the flywheel passing the stationary coil spools create an alternating low tension electric current in coils of wire which are wound around spools fastened to the stationary part of the magneto1 and is carried from these coils to the magneto connection 7wire7 leading to the coil box on the dash4 ,should the ,coil ,vibrator ,adjustment be disturbed8 ,answer ,no4 #ee ,the present style of coil unit is properly adjusted when it leaves the factory and this adjustment should not be disturbed unless to install new points or to reduce the gap between the points which may have increased from wear4 ,when adjustments are necessary they should1 whenever possible1 be made by one of our service stations who have special equipment for testing and adjusting units and will gladly furnish expert service4 ,if the points are pitted they should be filed flat with a fine double-faced file and the adjusting thumb nut turned down so that with the spring held down the gap between the points will be a trifle less than #a_/cb of an inch4 ,then set the lock nut so that the adjustment can not be disturbed4 ,do not bend or hammer on the vibrators1 as this would affect the operation of the cushion spring of the vibrator bridge and reduce the efficiency of the unit4 ,how is a ,weak ,unit detected8 ,answer ,no4 #ef ,with the vibrators properly adjusted1 if any particular cylinder fails or seems to develop only a weak action1 change the position of the unit to determine if the fault is actually in the unit4 ,the first symptom of a defective unit is the buzzing of the vibrator with no spark at the plug4 ,remember that a loose wire connection1 faulty spark plug1 or worn commutator may cause irregularity in the running of the motor4 ,these are points that should be considered before laying the blame on the coil4 ,how may short circuit in ,commutator ,wiring be detected8 ,answer ,no4 #eg ,should the insulation of the primary wires 7running from coil to commutator7 become worn to such an extent that the copper wire is exposed--the current will leak out 7i4 e4 short circuit7 whenever contact with the engine pan or other metal parts is made4 ,a steady buzzing of one of the coil units will indicate a short in the wiring4 ,when driving the car the engine will suddenly lag and pound on account of the premature explosion4 ,be careful not to crank the engine downward against compression when the car is in this condition1 as the short is apt to cause a vigorous kick back4 ,does ,coil ,adjustment affect starting8 ,answer ,no4 #eh ,yes4 ,when the vibrators are not properly adjusted more current is required to make and break the contact between the points1 and1 as a result1 at cranking speeds you would not get a spark between the spark plug points4 ,do not allow the contact points to become ragged1 otherwise they are apt to stick and cause unnecessary difficulty in starting1 and when running they are apt to produce an occasional miss in the engine4 ,what is the purpose of the ,commutator8 ,answer ,no4 #ei ,the commutator 7or timer7 determines the instant at which the spark plugs must fire4 ,it effects the make and break in the primary circuit4 ,the grounded wire in the magneto allows the current to flow through the metal parts to the metal roller in the commutator4 ,therefore1 when the commutator roller in revolving touches the four commutator contact points1 to each of which is attached a wire connected with a coil unit1 an electrical circuit is passed through the entire system of primary wires4 ,this circuit is only momentary1 however1 as the roller passes over the contact point very rapidly and sets up the circuit in each unit as the roller touches the contact point connected with that unit4 ,the commutator should be kept clean and well oiled at all times4 ,illustration3 ,the ,ford ,commutator4 7,cut ,no4 #i7 ,what about the ,spark ,plugs8 ,answer ,no4 #fj ,one is located at the top of each cylinder and can easily be taken out with the spark plug wrench included with every car1 after the wire connection is removed4 ,the high voltage current flows out of the secondary coils in the coil box and on reaching the contact points in each spark plug it is forced to jump a #a_/cb gap1 thereby forming a spark which ignites the gasoline charge in the cylinders4 ,the spark plugs should be kept clean 7i4 e41 free from carbon7 and should be replaced if they persist in not working properly4 ,there is nothing to be gained by experimenting with different makes of plugs4 ,the make of plugs with which ,ford engines are equipped when they leave the factory are best adapted to the requirements of our motor1 notwithstanding the opinion of various garage men to the contrary4 ,all wire connections to spark plugs1 coil box and commutator should1 of course1 at all times be kept in perfect contact4 ,what are the indications of ,ignition trouble8 ,answer ,no4 #fa ,the uneven sputter and bang of the exhaust means that one or more cylinders are exploding irregularly or not at all1 and that the trouble should be promptly located and overcome4 ,misfiring1 if allowed to continue1 will in time injure the engine and the entire mechanism4 ,if you would be known as a good driver you will be satisfied only with a soft1 steady purr from the exhaust4 ,if anything goes wrong1 stop and fix it if possible--don't wait until you get home4 ,how can one tell which ,cylinder is missing8 ,answer ,no4 #fb ,this is done by manipulating the vibrators on the spark coils4 ,open the throttle until the engine is running at a good speed and then hold down the two outside vibrators4 ,no4 #a and ,no4 #d1 with the fingers1 so they cannot buzz4 ,this cuts out the two corresponding cylinders4 ,no4 #a and ,no4 #d1 leaving only ,no4 #b and ,no4 #c running4 ,if they explode regularly it is obvious the trouble is in either ,no4 #a or ,no4 #d4 ,relieve ,no4 #d and hold down ,no4 #b and ,no4 #c and also ,no4 #a2 if ,no4 #d cylinder explodes evenly it is evident the misfiring is in ,no4 #a4 ,in this manner all of the cylinders in turn can be tested until the trouble is located4 ,examine both the spark plug and the vibrator of the missing cylinder4 ,if the ,coil and ,plug are right--what8 ,answer ,no4 #fc ,the trouble is probably due to an improperly seated valve1 worn commutator1 or short circuit in the commutator wiring4 ,weakness in the valves may be easily determined by lifting the starting crank slowly the length of the stroke of each cylinder in turn1 a strong or weak compression in any particular valve being easily detected4 ,it sometimes happens that the cylinder head gasket 7packing7 becomes leaky--permitting the gas under compression to escape1 a condition that can be detected by running a little lubricating oil around the edge of the gasket and noticing whether bubbles appear or not4 ,does a worn ,commutator ever cause misfiring8 ,answer ,no4 #fd ,yes4 ,if misfiring occurs when running at high speed1 inspect the commutator4 ,the surface of the circle around which roller 7see ,cut ,no4 #i7 travels should be clean and smooth1 so that the roller makes a perfect contact at all points4 ,if the roller fails to make a good contact on any one of the four contact points1 its corresponding cylinder will not fire4 ,clean these surfaces1 if dirty4 ,in case the fibre1 contact points and roller of the commutator are badly worn the most satisfactory remedy is to replace them with new parts4 ,the spring should be strong enough to make a firm contact between the roller points if they are worn or dirty4 ,misfiring may also be caused by short circuited commutator wires4 ,how is the ,commutator removed8 ,answer ,no4 #fe ,remove cotter pin from spark rod and detach latter from commutator4 ,loosen the cap screw which goes through breather pipe on top of time gear cover4 ,this will release the spring which holds the commutator case in place and this part can be readily removed4 ,unscrew lock nut2 withdraw steel brush cap and drive out the retaining pin4 ,the brush can then be removed from the cam shaft4 ,in replacing the brush1 care must be exercised to see that it is replaced so that the exhaust valve on the first cylinder is closed when the brush points upward4 ,this may be ascertained by removing the valve door and observing the operation of ,no4 #a valve4 ,does cold weather affect the ,commutator8 ,answer ,no4 #ff ,it is a well-known fact that in cold weather even the best grades of lubricating oil are apt to congeal to some extent4 ,if this occurs in the commutator it is very apt to prevent the roller from making perfect contact with the contact points imbedded in the fibre4 ,this1 of course1 makes difficult starting as the roller arm spring is not stiff enough to brush away the film of oil which naturally forms over the contact points4 ,to overcome this1 as well as any liability of the contact points to rust1 we recommend a mixture of #be kerosene with commutator lubricating oil1 which will thin it sufficiently to prevent congealing1 or freezing1 as it is commonly called4 ,you have probably noticed in starting your car in cold weather that perhaps only one or two cylinders will fire for the first minute or so1 which indicates that the timer is in the condition described above and as a consequence a perfect contact is not being made on each of the four terminals4 ,illustration3 ,the ,ford ,magneto4 ,the flywheel with magnets revolves while magneto coils remain stationary4 7,cut ,no4 #aj7 ,how is the ,magneto removed8 ,answer ,no4 #fg ,it is necessary to take the power plant out of the car 7see ,answer ,no4 #cb7 in order to remove the magneto4 ,then remove crank case and transmission cover--take out the four cap screws that hold the flywheel to the crank shaft4 ,you will then have access to the magnets and entire magneto mechanism4 ,in taking out these parts--or any parts of the car--the utmost care should be taken to make sure that the parts are so marked that they may be replaced properly4 ,when the ,magneto gets out of order--what8 ,answer ,no4 #fh ,the ,ford magneto is made of permanent magnets and there is very little likelihood of their ever losing their strength1 unless acted upon by some outside force4 ,for instance1 the attachment of a storage battery to the magneto terminal will demagnetize the magnets4 ,if anything like this happens1 it is not advisable to try to recharge them1 but rather install a complete set of new magnets4 ,the new magnets will be sent from the nearest agent or branch house1 and will be placed on a board in identically the same manner as they should be when installed on the flywheel4 ,great care should be taken in assembling the magnets and lining up the magneto so that the faces of the magnets are separated from the surface of the coil spool just #a_/cb of an inch4 ,to take out the old magnets1 simply remove the cap screw and bronze screw which holds each in place4 ,the magneto is often blamed when the trouble is a weak current caused by waste or other foreign matter accumulating under the contact spring1 which is held in place by the binding post on top of the crank case cover4 ,remove the three screws which hold the binding post in place1 remove binding post and spring and replace after foreign substance has been removed4 ,illustration3 ,transmission showing all gears in mesh4 7,cut ,no4 #aa7 ,the ,ford ,transmission ,what is the function of the ,transmission8 ,answer ,no4 #fi ,it is that part of the mechanism of an automobile which lies between the crank shaft and the drive shaft and by which one is enabled to move at different speeds from the other4 ,it is the speed gear of the car4 ,it sends the car forward at low and high speeds and by it the car is reversed4 ,what is meant by the term ,planetary ,transmission8 ,answer ,no4 #gj ,one in which the groups of gears always remain in mesh and revolve around a main axis4 ,the different sets of gears are brought into action by stopping the revolution of the parts which support the gears4 ,by means of bands 7similar to brake bands7 the rotation of the different parts is stopped4 ,the planetary transmission is the simplest and most direct means of speed control--and is a distinct advantage of the ,ford car4 ,what is the purpose of the ,clutch8 ,answer ,no4 #ga ,if the crank shaft of the engine ran without break straight through to the differential--and through it applied its power direct to the rear wheels--the car would start forward immediately upon the starting of the engine 7were it possible to get it started under such conditions74 ,to overcome this difficulty the shaft is divided and by means of the clutch the part of the shaft to which the running engine is delivering its power is enabled to take hold of the unmoving part gradually and start the car without jolt or jar4 ,the forward part of the shaft is referred to as the crank shaft1 the rear part as the drive shaft4 ,how is the ,clutch controlled8 ,answer ,no4 #gb ,by the left pedal at the driver's feet 7see ,answer ,no4 #aj74 ,if the clutch pedal1 when pushed forward into slow speed1 has a tendency to stick and not come back readily into high1 tighten up the slow speed band as directed in ,answer ,no4 #gd4 ,should the machine have an inclination to creep forward when cranking1 it indicates that the clutch lever screw which bears on the clutch lever cam has worn1 and requires an extra turn to hold the clutch in neutral position4 ,when the clutch is released by pulling back the hand lever the pedal should move forward a distance of #a in passing from high speed to neutral4 ,see that the hub brake shoe and connections are in proper order so that the brake will act sufficiently to prevent the car creeping very far ahead4 ,also be sure the slow speed band does not bind on account of being adjusted too tight4 ,don't use a too heavy grade of oil in cold weather as it will have a tendency to congeal between the clutch discs and prevent proper action of the clutch4 ,how is the ,clutch adjusted8 ,answer ,no4 #gc ,remove the plate on the transmission cover under the floor boards at the driver's feet4 ,take out the cotter key on the first clutch finger and give the set screw one-half to one complete turn to the right with a screw-driver4 ,do the same to the other finger set screws4 ,but be sure to give each the same number of turns and don't forget to replace the cotter key4 ,and after a considerable period of service the wear in the clutch may be taken up by installing another pair of clutch discs1 rather than by turning the adjusting screws in too far4 ,illustration3 ,the above drawing of ,transmission shows clearly the operation of ,clutch1 ,reverse and ,brake ,pedals4 7,cut ,no4 #ab7 ,,caution3 ,let us warn you against placing any small tools or objects over or in the transmission case without a good wire or cord attached to them4 ,otherwise if they are dropped into the transmission case it is almost impossible to recover them without taking off the transmission cover4 ,how are the ,bands adjusted8 ,answer ,no4 #gd ,the slow speed band may be tightened by loosening the lock nut at the right side of the transmission cover1 and turning the adjusting screw 7see ,cut ,no4 #ab7 to the right4 ,to tighten the brake and reverse bands remove the transmission cover door and turn the adjusting nuts on the shafts to the right4 ,see that the bands do not drag on the drums when disengaged1 as they exert a brake effect1 and tend to overheat the motor4 ,however1 the foot brake should be adjusted so that a sudden pressure will stop the car immediately1 or slide the rear wheels in case of emergency4 ,the bands1 when worn to such an extent that they will not take hold properly1 should be relined1 so that they will engage smoothly without causing a jerky movement of the car4 ,the lining is inexpensive and may be had at any ,ford service station at small cost4 ,how are the ,bands removed8 ,answer ,no4 #ge ,remove the starting motor 7see ,answer ,no4 #abh74 ,take off the door on top of transmission cover4 ,turn the reverse adjustment nut and the brake adjustment nut to the extreme end of the pedal shafts1 then remove the slow speed adjusting screw4 ,remove the bolts holding the transmission cover to crank case and lift off the cover assembly4 ,slip the band nearest the flywheel over the first of the triple gears1 then turn the band around so that the opening is downward4 ,the band can now be removed by lifting upward4 ,the operation is more easily accomplished if the three sets of triple gears are so placed that one set is about ten degrees to the right of center at top4 ,each band is removed by the same operation4 ,it is necessary to shove each band forward on to the triple gears as at this point only is there sufficient clearance in the crank case to allow the ears of the transmission bands to be turned downward4 ,by reversing this operation the bands may be installed4 ,after being placed in their upright position on the drums pass a cord around the ears of the three bands1 holding them in the center so that when putting the transmission cover in place no trouble will be experienced in getting the pedal shafts to rest in the notches in the band ears4 ,the clutch release ring must be placed in the rear groove of the clutch shift4 ,with the cover in place remove the cord which held the bands in place while the cover was being installed4 ,how is the ,transmission assembled8 ,answer ,no4 #gf ,cut ,no4 #ac shows the transmission parts in their relative assembling positions and grouped in their different operations of assembling4 ,the first operation is the assembling of group ,no4 #b1 which is as follows3 ,place the brake drum on table with the hub in a vertical position1 place the slow speed plate over the hub with gear uppermost4 ,then place reverse plate over the slow speed plate so that the reverse gear surrounds the slow speed gear4 ,fit the two keys in the hub just above the slow speed gear4 ,put the driven gear in position with the teeth downward so that they will come next to the slow speed gear4 ,take the three triple gears and mesh them with the driven gear according to the punch marks on the teeth1 the reverse gear or smallest of the triple gear assembly being downward4 ,after making sure that the triple gears are properly meshed tie them in place by passing a cord around the outside of the three gears4 ,take the flywheel and place it on the table with the face downward and the transmission shaft in a vertical position2 then invert the group which you have assembled over the transmission shaft1 setting it in position so that the triple gear pins on the flywheel will pass through the triple gears4 ,this will bring the brake drum on top in a position to hold the clutch plates1 etc4 ,the next step is to fit the clutch drum key in the transmission shaft4 ,press the clutch disc drum over the shaft and put the set screw in place to hold the drum4 ,put a large disc over the clutch drum1 then a small disc1 alternating with large and small discs until the entire set of discs are in position1 ending up with a large disc on top4 ,illustration3 ,transmission parts in their relative assembling positions4 7,cut ,no4 #ac7 ,if a small disc is on top it is liable to fall over the clutch drum in changing the speed from high to low and as a result you would be unable to change the speed back into high4 ,next put the clutch push ring over the clutch drum1 and on top of the discs with the three pins projecting upward 7see ,group ,no4 #d1 ,cut ,no4 #ac74 ,you will note the remaining parts are placed as they will be assembled4 ,next bolt the driving plate in position so that the adjusting screws of the clutch fingers will bear against the clutch push ring pins4 ,before proceeding further it would be a good plan to test the transmission by moving the plates with the hands4 ,if the transmission is properly assembled they will revolve freely4 ,the clutch parts may be assembled on the driving plate hub as follows3 ,slip the clutch shift over the hub so that the small end rests on the ends of the clutch fingers4 ,next put on the clutch spring1 placing the clutch support inside so that the flange will rest on the upper coil of the spring and press into place1 inserting the pin in the driving plate hub through the holes in the side of the spring support4 ,then turn the clutch spring support until the pin fits into the lugs on the bottom of the support4 ,the easiest method of compressing the spring sufficiently to insert the pin is to loosen the tension of the clutch finger by means of the adjusting screws4 ,when tightening up the clutch again the spring should be compressed to within a space of two or two and one-sixteenth inches to insure against the clutch slipping4 ,care should be exercised to see that the screws in the fingers are adjusted so the spring is compressed evenly all around4 ,illustration3 ,the ,rear ,axle ,system4 7,cut ,no4 #ad7 ,the ,rear ,axle ,assembly ,how is the ,rear ,axle removed8 ,answer ,no4 #gg ,jack up car and remove rear wheels as instructed in ,answer ,no4 #hi4 ,take out the four bolts connecting the universal ball cap to the transmission case and cover4 ,disconnect brake rods4 ,remove nuts holding spring perches to rear axle housing flanges4 ,raise frame at the rear end1 and the axle can be easily withdrawn4 ,how is the ,universal ,joint disconnected from the ,drive ,shaft8 ,answer ,no4 #gh ,remove two plugs from top and bottom of ball casting and turn shaft until pin comes opposite hole1 drive out pin and the joint can be pulled or forced away from the shaft and out of the housing4 ,how are the ,rear ,axle and ,differential disassembled8 ,answer ,no4 #gi ,with the universal joint disconnected1 remove nuts in front end of radius rods and the nuts on studs holding drive shaft tube to rear axle housing4 ,remove bolts which hold the two halves of differential housing together4 ,if necessary to disassemble differential a very slight mechanical knowledge will permit one to immediately discern how to do it once it is exposed to view4 ,care must be exercised to get every pin1 bolt and keylock back in its correct position when reassembling4 ,how is the ,drive ,shaft ,pinion removed8 ,answer ,no4 #hj ,the end of the drive shaft1 to which the pinion is attached1 is tapered to fit the tapered hole in the pinion1 which is keyed onto the shaft1 and then secured by a cotter-pinned castle nut4 ,remove the castle nut1 and drive the pinion off4 ,how are the ,differential ,gears ,removed8 ,answer ,no4 #ha ,the differential gears are attached to the inner ends of the rear axle shaft4 ,they work upon the differential pinions when turning a corner1 so that the axle shafts revolve independently1 but when the car is moving in a straight line the differential pinions and differential gears and axle shafts move as an integral part4 ,if you will examine the rear axle shafts you will notice that the gears are keyed on1 and held in position by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear axle shaft4 ,to remove the differential gears1 force them down on the shaft1 that is1 away from the end to which they are secured1 drive out the two halves of ring in the grooves in shaft with screw-driver or chisel1 then force the gears off the end of the shafts4 ,how is the ,rear ,axle ,shaft removed8 ,answer ,no4 #hb ,disconnect rear axle as directed in ,answer ,no4 #gg1 then unbolt the drive shaft assembly where it joins the rear axle housing at the differential4 ,disconnect the radius rods and brake rods at the outer ends of the housing4 ,take out the bolts which hold the two halves of the rear axle housing together at the center and remove the housing4 ,take the inner differential casing apart and draw the axle shaft out4 ,after replacing the axle shaft be sure that the rear wheels are firmly wedged on at the outer end of the axle shaft and the key in proper position4 ,when the car has been driven thirty days or so1 make it a point to remove the hub cap and set up the lock nut to overcome any play that might have developed4 ,it is extremely important that the rear wheels are kept tight1 otherwise the constant rocking back and forth against the keyway may in time cause serious trouble4 ,illustration3 ,the ,ford ,emergency ,brake4 7,cut ,no4 #ae7 ,if the rear axle or wheel is sprung by skidding against a curb1 or other accident1 it is false economy to drive the car without correcting the trouble1 as tires1 gears and all other parts will suffer4 ,if the axle shaft is bent1 it can1 with proper facilities1 be straightened1 but it is best to replace it4 ,the ,ford ,muffler ,why is the ,muffler necessary8 ,answer ,no4 #hc ,the exhaust as it comes from the engine through the exhaust pipe would create a constant and distracting noise were it not for the muffler4 ,from the comparatively small pipe1 the exhaust is liberated into the larger chambers of the muffler1 where the force of the exhaust is lessened by expansion and discharged out of the muffler with practically no noise4 ,the ,ford muffler construction is such that there is very little back pressure of the escaping gases1 consequently there is nothing to be gained by putting a cut-out in the exhaust pipe between the engine and the muffler4 ,how is the ,muffler disconnected8 ,answer ,no4 #hd ,disconnect the exhaust pipe from the motor by unscrewing the pack nut and remove the bolts which hold the muffler to the frame4 ,after the muffler has been disconnected it can be disassembled by removing the nut at the rear end4 ,the ,running ,gear ,what care should the ,running ,gear have8 ,answer ,no4 #he ,in the first place it at all times should have proper lubrication 7see chapter on ,lubrication74 ,once in every thirty days the front and rear axles should be carefully gone over to see that every moving part1 such as the bushings in spring connections1 spring hangers1 steering knuckles and hub bearings1 are thoroughly lubricated1 and that all nuts and connections are secured with cotter pins in place4 ,the spring clips1 which attach the front spring to the frame1 should be inspected frequently to see that everything is in perfect order4 ,how is the ,front ,axle removed8 ,answer ,no4 #hf ,jack up front of car so wheels can be removed 7see ,answer ,no4 #hi71 disconnect steering gear ball arm from the spindle connecting rod1 disconnect radius rod at ball joint1 and remove two cotter pin bolts from spring shackle on each side1 so detaching front spring4 ,to disconnect radius rod from axle1 remove cotter-pinned nuts4 ,to remove radius rod entirely1 take the two bolts out of the ball joint and remove lower half of cap4 ,in case of accident1 how is the ,front ,axle straightened8 ,answer ,no4 #hg ,should the axle or spindle become bent extreme care must be used to straighten the parts accurately4 ,do not heat the forgings1 as this will untemper the steel1 but straighten them cold4 ,if convenient it would be better to return such parts to the dealer1 where they may be properly straightened in jigs designed for that purpose4 ,it is very essential that the wheels line up properly 7see ,answer ,no4 #ij74 ,illustration3 ,the ,ford ,spindle and ,front ,hub ,assembly4 7,cut ,no4 #af7 ,the eye is not sufficiently accurate to determine whether the parts have been properly straightened1 and excessive wear of the front tires will occur if everything is not in perfect alignment4 ,what about the ,wheels8 ,answer ,no4 #hh ,the wheels should be jacked up periodically and tested1 not only for smoothness of running1 but for side play as well4 ,if in spinning a front wheel a sharp click occurs now and then and the wheel is momentarily checked1 it is probable that there is a chipped or split ball in the bearing which should be removed1 otherwise it may necessitate the removal of the entire bearing4 ,a wheel in perfect adjustment should1 after spinning1 come to rest with the tire valve directly below the hub4 ,undue wear of the hub bearings is usually caused by lack of lubrication and excessive friction1 due to the adjusting cone being screwed up too tight4 ,it is a good plan to clean the bearings frequently and keep the hub well filled with grease4 ,how are the ,wheels removed8 ,answer ,no4 #hi ,front wheels3 ,take off hub cap1 remove cotter pin and unscrew castle nut and spindle washer4 ,the adjustable bearing cone can then be taken out and the wheel removed4 ,care should be taken to see that the cones and lock nuts are replaced on the same spindle from which they were removed1 otherwise there is a liability of stripping the threads which are left on the left spindle and right on the opposite as you stand facing the car4 ,rear wheels3 ,they should not be removed unless absolutely necessary--in which case proceed as above1 then with a wheel puller remove the wheel from the tapered shaft to which it is locked with a key4 ,in replacing rear wheels be sure that nut on axle shaft is as tight as possible and cotter pin in place4 ,the hub caps of the rear wheels should be removed occasionally and the lock nuts which hold the hub in place tightened up4 ,if these nuts are allowed to work loose1 the resulting play on the hub key may eventually twist off the axle shaft4 ,how does the setting of the ,front ,wheels differ from that of the ,rear ,wheels8 ,answer ,no4 #ij ,it will be observed that the front wheels are dished2 that is1 the spokes are given a slight outward flare to enable them to meet side stresses with less rigid resistance--while the spokes of the rear wheels are straight4 ,the front wheels are also placed at an angle--that is to say1 the distance between the tops of the front wheels is about three inches greater than between the bottoms4 ,this is to give perfect steering qualities and to save wear on the tires when turning corners4 ,the front wheels should not1 however1 toe-in at the front--at least not more than a quarter of an inch4 ,lines drawn along the outside of the wheels when the latter are straight in a forward position should be parallel4 ,all wheels should always be kept in proper alignment1 otherwise steering will be difficult and tire wear greatly increased4 ,adjustment can be made by turning the yoke at the left end of the spindle connecting rod1 to draw the wheels into a parallel position4 ,what about installing ,roller ,bearing ,cups8 ,answer ,no4 #ia ,whenever it is necessary to install roller bearing cups1 either in changing over from ball bearings to roller bearings or in replacing worn cups1 the work should be done by a ,dealer or ,garage which has the necessary equipment for this work4 ,in order to avoid excessive wear of the bearings it is essential that the cups be fitted absolutely true and this is practically impossible without the use of special equipment4 ,illustration3 ,sectional view of ,hub showing ,roller ,bearings4 7,cut ,no4 #ag7 ,how are the ,roller ,bearings installed8 ,answer ,no4 #ib ,first1 pack the hub full of clean good quality cup grease4 ,take the inner cone with its rollers and pack it with grease1 filling all of the space around and between the rollers4 ,then place the inner cone in the larger cup4 ,next1 drive the dust ring with felt washer into the inner end of the hub so that it is flush with the end of the hub4 ,place the wheel carrying the inner bearings with dust ring on the spindle4 ,the inner cone is a one-thousandth fit1 or1 in other words1 a slip fit on the spindle4 7,see ,cut ,no4 #ag47 ,it is never necessary to force the cone onto the spindle as the cups are forced into the hub4 ,pack the outer or threaded cone and rollers with cup grease1 filling all the space between the rollers1 as was done with the inner cone4 ,the cones are made up in right-and left-hand threads to correspond to the threads on the spindles4 ,care should be taken that a right-hand threaded cone is not forced onto a left-hand threaded spindle4 ,the right-hand thread is on the left-hand side of the car1 while the left-hand thread is on the right-hand side of the car4 ,place the cone on the spindle1 running it up tight enough so that the wheel seems to bind2 give the wheel a few turns to be sure that all the working parts are in perfect contact2 then back off the cone to a turn which will be sufficient to allow the wheel to revolve freely without end play4 ,to determine if there is end play1 grasp the spokes and shake the wheel4 ,do not mistake loose spindle bushings for loose bearings4 ,insert a cold chisel between axle and spindle to take up any play while testing the bearings4 ,next1 put on the spindle washer and nut1 drawing the nut to a firm bearing4 ,make sure that the cone has not been forced out of adjustment4 ,this can be determined by giving the wheel a few turns4 ,insert the cotter pin which locks the nut on the spindle1 fill the hub cap with grease and screw it in place on the hub4 ,how often should the ,bearings be lubricated8 ,answer ,no4 #ic ,every three or four months the wheels should be removed1 the old grease taken out and the hubs and bearings thoroughly cleansed with kerosene4 ,then repack the hub and bearings with clean grease and readjust the bearings4 ,what care do the ,springs need8 ,answer ,no4 #id ,the springs should be lubricated frequently with oil or graphite4 ,to do this1 pry the leaves apart near the ends and insert the lubricant between them4 ,whenever a car is given a general overhauling1 the springs should be disassembled and the leaves polished with emery cloth1 afterwards packing them with graphite when reassembling4 ,rust can be prevented from accumulating on the springs by painting them when necessary with a quick drying black paint4 ,you will find that these suggestions if carried out will not only improve the riding qualities of the car but prolong the life of the parts as well4 ,should ,spring ,clips be kept tight8 ,answer ,no4 #ie ,yes4 ,if the spring clips are allowed to work loose the entire strain is put on the tie bolt which extends through the centre of the spring4 ,this may cause the bolt to be sheared off and allow the frame and body to shift a trifle to one side4 ,it is a good plan to frequently inspect the clips which hold the springs to the frame and see that they are kept tight4 ,what about the ,steering ,apparatus8 ,answer ,no4 #if ,it is exceedingly simple and will need little care--except1 of course1 proper lubrication4 ,the post gears which are arranged in the sun and planet form are located at the top of the post just below the hub of the wheel 7see ,cut ,no4 #a74 ,by loosening the set screw and unscrewing the cap--after having removed the steering wheel--they may readily be inspected and replenished with grease4 ,to remove the steering wheel1 unscrew the nut on top of the post and drive the wheel off the shaft with a block of wood and hammer4 ,how is ,steering ,gear tightened8 ,answer ,no4 #ig ,should the steering gear become loose1 that is1 so that a slight movement of the wheel does not produce immediate results1 it may be tightened in the following manner3 ,disconnect the two halves of the ball sockets which surround the ball arm at the lower end of the steering post and file off the surface until they fit snugly around the ball4 ,if the ball is badly worn it is best to replace it with a new one4 ,also tighten the ball caps at the other end of the steering gear connecting rod in the same manner4 ,if the bolts in the steering spindle arms appear to be loose1 the brass bushings should be replaced with new ones 7see ,cut ,no4 #af74 ,excessive play in the front axle may be detected by grasping one of the front wheels by the spokes and jerking the front axle back and forth4 ,after the car has been in service two or three years excessive play in the steering gear may make necessary the renewal of the little pinions1 as well as the brass internal gear just underneath the steering wheel spider4 ,it is also advisable to inspect the front spring and front spring perches occasionally to determine whether or not new bushings are necessary to overcome any excessive vibration4 ,illustration3 ,lubrication ,chart4 7,cut ,no4 #ah7 ,the ,ford ,lubricating ,system ,how does the ,ford ,lubricating ,system differ from others8 ,answer ,no4 #ih ,it is simplified--and there are fewer places to oil4 ,practically all of the parts of the engine and transmission are oiled by the ,ford splash system1 from the one big oil reservoir in the crank case4 ,cut ,no4 #ah shows the principal points of lubrication1 and specifies when replenishment should be made1 according to mileage4 ,this chart should be studied carefully and often4 ,it is a good plan to frequently supply all oil cups with the same oil used in the engine 7any good light grade lubricating oil will answer7 and the dope cups with good grease4 ,be sure to see that the commutator is kept freely supplied with oil at all times4 ,which is the best way to fill the ,dope ,cups8 ,answer ,no4 #ii ,when it is advisable to fill dope cup covers screw them down1 refill with grease and repeat the operation two or three times4 ,always open oil cups by turning to right1 as this keeps tightening rather than loosening them4 ,occasionally remove front wheels and supply dope to wearing surface4 ,a drop of oil now and then in crank-handle bearing is necessary1 also on fan belt pulleys and shaft4 ,the axles drive shaft and universal joint are well supplied with lubricant when the car leaves the factory1 but it is well to examine and oil them frequently4 ,what kind of ,oil should be used8 ,answer ,no4 #ajj ,we recommend only medium light high-grade gas engine oil for use in the ,model ,t motor4 ,a medium light grade of oil is preferred as it will naturally reach the bearings with greater ease and consequently less heat will develop on account of friction4 ,the oil should1 however1 have sufficient body so that the pressure between the two bearing surfaces will not force the oil out and allow the metal to come in actual contact4 ,heavy and inferior oils have a tendency to carbonize quickly1 also gum up the piston rings1 valve stems and bearings4 ,in cold weather a light grade of oil having a low cold test is absolutely essential for the proper lubrication of the car4 ,graphite should not be used as a lubricant in the engine or the transmission as it will have a tendency to short-circuit the magneto4 ,how often should ,oil be drained from ,crank ,case8 ,answer ,no4 #aja ,it is advisable to clean out the crank case by draining off the dirty oil when the new car has been driven three hundred and fifty miles2 thereafter it will only be necessary to repeat this operation about every seven hundred and fifty miles4 ,remove the plug underneath the flywheel casing and drain off the oil4 ,replace the plug and pour in a gallon of kerosene oil through the breather pipe4 ,turn the engine over fifteen or twenty times so that the splash from the kerosene oil will thoroughly cleanse the engine4 ,remove crank case plug and drain off kerosene oil4 ,it is of vital importance that all the kerosene be removed from the depressions in the crank case4 ,to do this put about a quart of lubricating oil into the motor and turn engine over several times1 then remove the crank case plug and drain off the flushing oil2 then replace plug and refill with fresh oil4 7,see ,answer ,no4 #c47 ,how often should ,commutator be oiled8 ,answer ,no4 #ajb ,keeping the commutator well oiled is a matter of far greater importance than many drivers believe1 and is necessary in order to have a smooth operating engine4 ,don't be afraid to put a little oil into the commutator every other day--at least every #bjj miles4 ,remember that the commutator roller revolves very rapidly1 and without sufficient lubrication the parts soon become badly worn4 ,when in this condition perfect contact between the roller and the four contact points is impossible1 as a result the engine is apt to misfire when running at a good rate of speed4 ,illustration3 ,oiling the ,ford ,commutator4 7,cut ,no4 #ai7 ,what about ,lubricating the ,differential8 ,answer ,no4 #ajc ,do not make the mistake of putting too much grease in the differential housing4 ,the housing should not be more than one-third full4 ,the differential is supplied with the required amount of lubricant when the car leaves the factory4 ,the oil plug should be removed about every #ajjj miles and more grease added if necessary4 ,if a fluid grease is used the level should be approximately one and one-half inches below the oil hole4 ,care of the ,tires ,how are ,ford ,tires removed8 ,answer ,no4 #ajd ,first1 jack up the wheel clear of the road4 ,the valve cap should be unscrewed1 the lock nut removed and the valve stem pushed into the tire until its bead is flush with the rim4 ,this done1 loosen up the head of the shoe in the clinch of the rim by working and pushing with the hands1 then insert one of the tire irons or levers under the beads4 ,the tire iron should be pushed in just enough to get a good hold on the under side of the bead1 but not so far as to pinch the inner tube between the rim and the tool4 ,a second iron should be inserted in the same fashion some seven or eight inches from the first1 and the third tool the same distance from the second4 ,as a clincher tire must be pried over the clinch1 three levers will come in handy in a case of a one-man job1 and the knee of the driver can be used to good advantage to hold down one lever while the other two are being manipulated in working the shoe clear of the rim4 ,after freeing a length of the bead from the clinch1 the entire outer edge of the casing may be readily detached with the hands1 and the damaged inner tube removed and patched or a spare tube inserted4 ,always use plenty of soapstone in replacing an inner tube4 ,how are ,casings repaired8 ,answer ,no4 #aje ,should the casing be cut so there is danger of the inner tube being blown through it1 a temporary repair can be made by cementing a canvas patch on the inside of the casing4 ,before applying the patch the part of the casing affected should be cleaned with gasoline and when dry1 rubber cement applied to both casing and patch4 ,this will answer as an emergency repair--but the casing should be vulcanized at the first opportunity4 ,to prolong the life of the tire casings1 any small cuts in the tread should be filled with patching cement and a specially prepared plastic sold by the tire companies4 ,how may ,tire ,expense be reduced8 ,answer ,no4 #ajf ,tire cost constitutes one of the most important items in the running expenses of an automobile4 ,to get the most service at the least expense1 the tires should be inspected frequently and all small cuts or holes properly sealed or repaired--thus preventing dirt and water working in between the rubber tread and the fabric1 causing blisters or sand boils4 ,tires should never be run partially deflated1 as the side walls are unduly bent and the fabric is subject to stresses which cause what is known as rim cutting4 ,the chances of getting a puncture will be greatly reduced by keeping your tires properly inflated1 as a hard tire exposes much less surface to the road than a soft tire1 and also deflects sharp objects that would penetrate a soft tire4 ,running a tire flat1 even for a short distance1 is sure to be costly4 ,better run on the rim1 very slowly and carefully1 rather than on a flat tire4 ,remember that fast driving and skidding shorten the life of the tires4 ,avoid locking the wheels with the brakes--no tire will stand the strain of being dragged over the pavement in this fashion4 ,avoid running in street car tracks1 in ruts1 or bumping the sides of the tire against the curbing4 ,the wheel rims should be painted each season and kept free from rust4 ,when a car is idle for any appreciable length of time1 it should be jacked up to take the load off the tires4 ,if the car is laid up for many months it is best to remove the tires1 and wrap up the outer casings and inner tubes separately1 and store them in a dark room not exposed to extreme temperatures4 ,remove oil or grease from the tires with gasoline4 ,remember that heat1 light and oil are three natural enemies of rubber4 ,how is a puncture in the ,inner ,tube repaired8 ,answer ,no4 #ajg ,after locating the puncture1 carefully clean the rubber around the leak with benzine or gasoline4 ,then roughen the surface with sandpaper to give a hold for the cement4 ,apply the cement to both patch and tube1 allowing it to dry for about five minutes1 repeating the application twice with like intervals between for drying4 ,when the cement is dry and sticky press the patch against the tube firmly and thoroughly to remove all air bubbles beneath it and insure proper adherence to the surface--then spread some soapstone or talc powder over the repair so as to prevent the tube sticking to the casing4 ,before the tube is put back into the casing plenty of talc powder should be sprinkled into the latter4 ,a cement patch is not usually permanent and the tube should be vulcanized as soon as possible4 ,in replacing the tire on the rim be very careful not to pinch the tube4 ,points on ,maintenance ,what is the proper way to wash the ,car8 ,answer ,no4 #ajh ,always use cold or lukewarm water--never hot water4 ,if a hose is used1 don't turn on the water at full force1 as this drives the dirt into the varnish and injures the finish4 ,after the surplus mud and grime have been washed off take a sponge and clean the body and running gear with a tepid solution of water and ,ivory or linseed oil soap4 ,rinse off with cold water2 then rub dry and polish the body with a chamois skin4 ,a body or furniture polish of good quality may be used to add lustre to the car4 ,grease on the running gear may be removed with a gasoline-soaked sponge or rag4 ,the nickeled parts may be polished with any good metal polish4 ,what care does ,top need8 ,answer ,no4 #aji ,when putting the top down be careful in folding to see that the fabric is not pinched between the bow spacers1 as they will chafe a hole through the top very quickly4 ,applying a good top dressing will greatly improve the appearance of an old top4 ,what should be done when the ,car is stored8 ,answer ,no4 #aaj ,drain the water from the radiator1 and then put in about a quart of denatured alcohol to prevent freezing of any water that may possibly remain4 ,remove cylinder head and clean out any carbon deposits in combustion chamber4 ,draw off all the gasoline4 ,drain the dirty oil from the crank case and cleanse the engine with kerosene as directed in ,answer ,no4 #aja4 ,refill the crank case with fresh oil and revolve the engine enough to cover the different parts with oil4 ,remove the tires and store them away4 ,wash up the car1 and if possible cover the body with a sheet of muslin to protect the finish4 ,what attention do the ,electric ,head ,lights require8 ,answer ,no4 #aaa ,very little4 ,when the cars leave our factory the lamps are properly focused and unless the bulb burns out there should be no occasion for removing the door1 as there is nothing to get out of order4 ,should the door be removed for any reason care should be exercised not to touch the silver-plated reflector or the bulb with anything but a soft1 clean rag1 preferably flannel4 ,to focus the lamps turn the adjusting screw in the back of lamp in either direction until the desired focus is attained4 ,the ,ford ,model ,t ,one ,ton ,truck ,do the ,instructions relative to the ,car apply to the ,truck8 ,answer ,no4 #aab ,the answers pertaining to the car are applicable to the truck1 with the exception of ,nos4 #gi1 #hj and #ha4 ,how are the ,rear ,axle and ,differential disassembled8 ,answer ,no4 #aac ,with the universal joint disconnected1 remove the bolt in front end of radius rods and the cap screws which hold the drive shaft tube to the rear axle housing4 ,then remove the rear axle housing cap2 also the bolts which hold the two halves of the differential housing together4 ,with the differential exposed to view1 the manner of disassembling it will be apparent4 ,care must be exercised to get every part back in its correct position when reassembling1 being sure to use new paper liners4 ,how is the ,worm removed8 ,answer ,no4 #aad ,to remove the worm1 drive out the pins which hold the coupling to the worm and drive shaft4 ,then remove the felt washer1 roller bearing sleeve1 and roller bearing by slipping them over the coupling4 ,drive the coupling off from the drive shaft and then force the worm from the coupling4 ,removing the worm nut will permit the removal of the retaining washer1 thrust bearing and rear worm roller bearing4 ,in reassembling be sure that the pin which holds the retaining washer stationary is in place4 ,how is the ,differential ,gear removed from the ,shaft8 ,answer ,no4 #aae ,the differential gear is fastened to the inner end of the rear axle shaft by means of splines1 and is held in position by a ring which is in two halves and fits in a groove in the rear axle shaft4 ,to remove the gear1 force it down on the shaft1 that is1 away from the end to which it is fastened1 drive out the two halves of the ring in groove in shaft with screw-driver or chisel1 and force the gear off the end of the shaft4 ,what about ,lubricating the ,rear ,axle8 ,answer ,no4 #aaf ,extreme care must be used in lubricating the differential4 ,an ,a-l heavy fluid or semi-fluid oil1 such as ,mobiloil ,c or ,whittemore's ,worm ,gear ,protective1 should be used and carried at a level with the upper oil plug4 ,the differential is supplied with the required amount of lubricant when the truck leaves the factory and the supply should be maintained by replenishments as required4 ,after running the truck about #ejj miles1 the oil should be drained off by removing the lower oil plug1 and the differential filled with fresh lubricant4 ,this operation should be repeated at approximately #ajjj miles1 and after that whenever necessary4 ,the rear axle outer roller bearings are lubricated by means of dope cups4 ,these cups should be kept filled with a good grade of grease and given a full turn every #ajj miles4 ,before putting the truck back in service after the rear axle has been taken down1 fill the differential with oil1 jack up the axle and run it for five or ten minutes to insure proper lubrication of all bearings4 ,illustration3 ,truck ,rear ,axle--,longitudinal ,view4 7,cut ,no4 #bj7 ,illustration3 ,truck ,rear ,axle--,cross ,section showing ,worm and ,worm ,gear4 7,cut ,no4 #ba7 ,illustration3 ,starter and ,generator ,units4 7,cut ,no4 #bb7 ,the ,ford ,starting and ,lighting ,system ,of what does the ,starting and ,lighting ,system consist8 ,answer ,no4 #aag ,the starting and lighting system is of the two unit type and consists of the starting motor1 generator1 storage battery1 ammeter1 and lights1 together with the necessary wiring and connections4 ,where is the ,starter located8 ,answer ,no4 #aah ,the starting motor is mounted on the left-hand side of the engine and bolted to the transmission cover4 ,when in operation the pinion on the ,bendix drive shaft engages with the teeth on the flywheel4 ,what if the ,engine fails to start8 ,answer ,no4 #aai ,if the starting motor is turning the crank shaft over and the engine fails to start1 the trouble is not in the starting system4 ,in this event release the button at once so as not to unnecessarily discharge the battery and inspect the carburetor and ignition system to determine the trouble4 ,what if the ,starting ,motor fails to act8 ,answer ,no4 #abj ,if the starting motor fails to act1 after pushing the button1 first inspect the terminal on the starting motor1 the two terminals on the battery and the two terminals on starting switch1 making sure all of the connections are tight2 then examine the wiring for a break in the insulation that would cause a short circuit4 ,if the wiring and connections are ,o4 ,k4 and the starting motor fails to act1 test the battery with a hydrometer4 ,if the hydrometer reading is less than #a4bbe the trouble is no doubt due to a weak or discharged battery4 ,what if the driver steps on ,starting ,button when engine is running8 ,answer ,no4 #aba ,should the driver accidentally step on the starting button while the engine is running1 no harm will result4 ,the pinion merely touches the revolving flywheel gear once and immediately rotates with the threaded shaft out of contact with the flywheel1 in the same manner as when it has been disengaged by the engine's starting4 ,how is the ,generator operated8 ,answer ,no4 #abb ,the generator is mounted on the right-hand side of the engine and bolted to the cylinder front end cover4 ,it is operated by the pinion on the armature shaft engaging with the large time gear4 ,the charging rate of generator is set so as to cut in at engine speeds corresponding to #aj miles per hour in high speed and reaches a maximum charging rate at #bj miles per hour4 ,at higher speeds the charge will taper off1 which is a settled characteristic of a generator4 ,this operation of cutting in and cutting out at suitable speeds is accomplished by the cut-out1 which is mounted on the generator4 ,this cut-out is set properly at the factory and should not under any circumstances be tampered with4 ,illustration3 ,wiring ,diagram ,cars ,equipped with ,starter4 7,cut ,no4 #bc7 ,what about ,oiling8 ,answer ,no4 #abc ,the starting motor is lubricated by the ,ford splash system1 the same as the engine and transmission4 ,the generator is lubricated by a splash of oil from the time gears4 ,in addition an oil cup is located at the end of the generator housing and a few drops of oil should be applied occasionally4 ,what should be done when repairing the ,ignition8 ,answer ,no4 #abd ,the introduction of a battery current into the magneto will discharge the magnets and whenever working on the ignition system or wiring do not fail to disconnect the positive wire from the battery4 ,the end of this wire should be wound with tape to prevent its coming in contact with the terminal again4 ,how does the ,ammeter operate8 ,answer ,no4 #abe ,the ammeter is located on the instrument board4 ,this indicator registers charge when the generator is charging the battery and discharge when the lights are burning and the engine not running above #aj miles per hour4 ,at an engine speed of #ae miles per hour or more the ammeter should show a reading of from #aj to #ab4 ,if the engine is running above #ae miles per hour and the ammeter does not show a proper reading1 first inspect the terminal posts on the ammeter1 making sure that the connections are tight1 then disconnect the wire from the terminal on generator1 and with the engine running at a moderate speed1 take a pair of pliers or a screw-driver and short-circuit the terminal stud on the generator to the generator housing4 ,if the generator is ,o4 ,k41 a good live spark will be noted4 7,do not run the engine any longer than is necessary with the terminal wire disconnected47 ,next inspect the wiring from the generator through the ammeter1 to the battery for a break in the insulation that would result in a short-circuit4 ,if the trouble is not located1 then remove the dust cap from the end of generator and thoroughly clean the generator commutator1 using for this work a fine grade of sandpaper which has been slightly oiled4 ,with the motor running hold the sandpaper against the commutator with the fingers until all dirt has been removed and a bright surface attained4 ,how are the ,lights operated8 ,answer ,no4 #abf ,the lighting system consists of two headlights and a tail light operated by a combination lighting and ignition switch located on the instrument board4 ,the headlamp bulbs are of #f-h volt1 double filament type4 ,the major filament is #ah candle-power1 and the minor filament is #b candle-power4 ,the small bulb used in the tail light is of #f-h volt1 single contact1 two candle-power type4 ,all of the lamps are connected in parallel so that the burning out or removal of any one of them will not affect the other4 ,current for the lamps is supplied by the battery4 ,do not connect the lights to the magneto as it will result in burning out the bulbs and might discharge the magnets4 ,cut ,no4 #bc shows the different circuits and the course of the current4 ,what about repairing ,starter and ,generator ,answer ,no4 #abg ,if either the starter or generator fails to give proper service1 the owner should at once consult an authorized ,ford dealer4 ,owners should not attempt to repair or adjust the mechanism of the starter and generator4 ,how is the ,starter removed8 ,answer ,no4 #abh ,when removing the starter to replace transmission bands1 or for any other reason1 first remove the engine pan on the left-hand side of the engine and with a screw-driver remove the four small screws holding the shaft cover to the transmission cover4 ,upon removing cover and gasket1 turn the ,bendix drive shaft around so that the set screw on the end of the shaft is at the top4 ,immediately under the set screw is placed a lock washer1 designed with lips or extensions opposite each other4 ,one of these is turned against the collar and the other is turned up against the side of the screw head4 ,bend back the lip which has been forced against the screw and remove the set-screw4 ,as the lock washer will no doubt be broken or weakened in removing the starter1 a new one must be used when replacing it4 ,next1 pull the ,bendix assembly out of the housing1 being careful that the small key is not misplaced nor lost4 ,remove the four screws which hold the starter housing to the transmission cover1 and pull out the starter1 taking same down through the chassis--this is why it was necessary to remove the engine pan4 ,extreme care should be used in removing the ,bendix drive and other parts that none are misplaced nor lost and that they are replaced in their former position4 ,in replacing the starter1 be sure that the terminal connection is placed at the top4 ,if the car is to be operated with the starter removed1 be sure to put the transmission cover plates in position4 ,these plates may be obtained from the nearest dealer4 ,how is the ,bendix ,drive assembled to the ,starting ,motor8 ,answer ,no4 #abi ,when assembling the ,bendix ,drive to the starting motor shaft1 care must be used to see that the stop nut or bearing which enters the mounting bracket on the starting motor is not too tight2 also that the bearing is in proper alignment with the bracket4 ,the bearing should be oiled and then fitted so that it can be turned readily with the fingers4 ,if the bearing is too tight1 it should be dressed down with an oil stone4 ,too tight a fit will cause the bearing to freeze to the bracket1 resulting in serious damage to the starter4 ,how is the ,generator removed8 ,answer ,no4 #acj ,if it is found necessary to remove the generator1 first take out the three cap screws holding it to the front end cover and by placing the point of a screw-driver between the generator and front end cover1 the generator may be forced off the engine assembly4 ,always start at the top of the generator and force it backward and downward at the same time4 ,plates may be obtained from the nearest dealer to place over the time gear if the car is to be operated with the generator removed4 ,what should be done when replacing the ,generator8 ,answer ,no4 #aca ,when installing the generator1 the drive pinion must be properly meshed with the large time gear4 ,the generator bracket1 that is1 the section to which the generator is bolted is separate from the cylinder block and the meshing of the generator driving pinion with the large time gear can be regulated by the use of one or more paper gaskets between the bracket and the cylinder block4 ,the bracket should rest tightly on the crankcase gasket and line up with the face of the time gear case4 ,if these gears are meshed too tightly1 a humming noise will result1 also the generator shaft will be thrown out of alignment4 ,can the ,engine be run with the ,generator disconnected from the battery8 ,answer ,no4 #acb ,if for any reason the engine is run with the generator disconnected from the battery1 as on a block test1 or when battery has been removed for repair or recharging1 be sure that the generator is grounded by running a wire from the terminal on generator to one of the dust cover screws in the yoke4 ,two strands of shipping tag wire may be used for this purpose4 ,be sure that the connections at both ends of the wire are tight4 ,failure to do this when running the engine with the generator disconnected from the battery will result in serious injury to the generator4 ,never ground the generator through the cut-out4 ,what type of ,battery is used8 ,answer ,no4 #acc ,the ,ford ,starting ,system uses a six-volt1 three-cell battery4 ,how are ,hydrometer ,readings taken8 ,answer ,no4 #acd ,illustration3 ,hydrometer ,readings4 7,cut ,no4 #bd7 ,hydrometer readings should be taken about every two weeks to make sure that the generator is keeping the battery charged4 ,to take a hydrometer reading1 remove the filling plugs 7remove the plug from only one cell at a time74 ,next1 insert hydrometer syringe in the filler tube and draw up enough of the solution to float the glass bulb inside the instrument4 ,the reading of the scale at the surface of the liquid 7see ,cut ,no4 #bd7 gives the strength of the solution4 ,be sure to return the electrolyte to the cell from which it was taken4 ,following is a list of the readings with their indications4 ,the readings in parentheses apply to batteries used in tropical climates where water never freezes4 ,readings of #a4bge 7#a4bjj7 or more indicate a fully charged battery4 ,readings of less than #a4bbe 7#a4acj7 but more than #a4aej 7#a4jhj7 indicate complete discharge4 ,hydrometer tests taken immediately after filling with water and before it has become thoroughly mixed with the electrolyte will not show the true condition of the battery4 ,if the hydrometer reading shows the battery less than one-half charged1 it should be taken to the nearest authorized ,battery ,service ,station for recharging4 ,continued operation in a less than half-charged condition is injurious to the battery somewhat as running on a soft or deflated tire is injurious to the tire4 ,before replacing the battery1 the cause of the discharged condition should be removed4 ,it may be due to leaks or grounds in the car wiring or to the electric system having gotten out of adjustment so that the battery is not kept supplied with the proper amount of current from the generator4 ,if the reading in one cell is more than #ej points different from the others1 it indicates that the cell is not in good order and the battery should be taken to a skilled service man for attention4 ,when should water be added to the ,battery8 ,answer ,no4 #ace ,add nothing but pure water to the cells and do it often enough to keep the plates covered at all times4 ,the solution 7electrolyte7 should be maintained at a level with the bottom of the filling tube4 ,distilled water1 melted artificial 7but not natural7 ice and rain water1 if obtained in the open country from a clean slate or shingle-covered roof1 are generally satisfactory4 ,all water for battery use should be kept in clean1 covered vessels of glass1 china1 earthenware1 rubber or lead4 ,in cold weather add water only immediately before running the engine so that the charging will mix the water and electrolyte1 and avoid freezing4 ,if1 for any reason1 it is necessary to add acid1 the battery should be taken to an authorized ,service ,station4 ,what care should be given the ,filling ,plugs and ,connections8 ,answer ,no4 #acf ,keep the filling plugs and connections tight and the top of the battery clean4 ,wiping the battery with a rag moistened with ammonia will counteract the effect of any of the solution which may be on the outside of the battery4 ,a coating of heavy oil or vaseline will protect the connectors from corrosion4 ,keep the battery firmly secured in position4 ,if clamps are loose1 the battery will shift about in the compartment and result in loose connections1 broken cells and other trouble4 ,if repairs are necessary or if the car is to be laid up for the winter1 take the battery to a skilled service man for proper attention and storage4 ,do not entrust the battery to inexperienced or unskilled hands4 ,summary of ,engine ,troubles and ,their ,causes ,,engine ,,fails ,,to ,,start #a4 ,gas mixture too lean4 #b4 ,water in gasoline4 #c4 ,vibrators adjusted too close4 #d4 ,water or congealed oil in commutator4 #e4 ,magneto contact point 7in trans4 cover7 obstructed with foreign matter4 #f4 ,gasoline supply shut off4 #g4 ,carburetor frozen 7in zero weather74 #h4 ,water frozen in gasoline tank sediment bulb4 #i4 ,coil switch off4 ,,engine ,,lacks ,,power--,,runs ,,irregularly ,at ,low ,speeds4 #a4 ,poor compression--account leaky valves4 #b4 ,gas mixture too rich or too lean4 #c4 ,spark plugs dirty4 #d4 ,coil vibrator improperly adjusted4 #e4 ,air leak in intake manifold4 #f4 ,weak exhaust valve spring4 #g4 ,too great clearance between valve stem and push rod4 #h4 ,too close gap between spark plug points4 ,at ,high ,speeds4 #a4 ,commutator contact imperfect4 #b4 ,weak valve spring4 #c4 ,too much gap in spark plug4 #d4 ,imperfect gas mixture4 #e4 ,vibrator points dirty or burned4 ,,engine ,,stops ,,suddenly #a4 ,gasoline tank empty4 #b4 ,water in gasoline4 #c4 ,flooded carburetor4 #d4 ,dirt in carburetor or feed pipe4 #e4 ,magneto wire loose at either terminal4 #f4 ,magneto contact point obstructed4 #g4 ,overheated--account lack of oil or water4 #h4 ,gas mixture too lean4 ,,engine ,,overheats #a4 ,lack of water4 #b4 ,lack of oil4 #c4 ,fan belt torn1 loose or slipping4 #d4 ,carbon deposit in combustion chamber4 #e4 ,spark retarded too far4 #f4 ,gas mixture too rich4 #g4 ,water circulation retarded by sediment in radiator4 #h4 ,dirty spark plugs4 ,,engine ,,knocks #a4 ,carbon deposit on piston heads4 #b4 ,loose connecting rod bearing4 #c4 ,loose crank shaft bearing4 #d4 ,spark advanced too far4 #e4 ,engine overheated4 ,index ,,care ,,of ,,tires ,page ,care of ,inner ,tubes #dh ,casings--,how ,repaired #dh ,how to ,remove ,tires #dh ,repair ,puncture #di ,,cooling ,,system ,causes of ,overheating #ag ,purpose #ag ,radiator ,care in ,winter #ai ,repairing ,radiator #ai ,what to ,do ,when ,overheated #ag ,,engine ,carbon--,how ,removed #ad ,connecting ,rod and ,bearings #ae ,engine ,fails to ,start #fa ,engine ,lacks ,power--,runs ,irregularly #fa ,engine ,stops ,suddenly #fa ,engine ,overheats #fa ,engine ,knocks #fa ,knocking--,causes #ad ,main ,bearing--,how ,adjusted #af ,piston #i ,power ,plant--,how ,removed #ae ,valves #i ,,gasoline ,,system ,carburetor--,how to ,adjust #ba ,carburetor--,how ,controlled #ba ,carburetor--,trouble #bb ,carburetor--,how it ,works #ba ,,ignition ,,system ,coils #be ,commutator--,its ,purpose #bf ,magneto #be ,magneto ,trouble #bi ,spark ,plugs #bj ,where to ,look for ,trouble #bg ,,lubricating ,,system ,how it ,differs from ,others #de ,kind of ,oil to ,use #de ,to ,fill ,dope ,cups #de ,,maintenance ,care of ,top #ej ,storing ,cars #ej ,to ,keep ,car ,clean #ej ,,muffler ,what ,it ,is ,for #ci ,how to ,disconnect #ci ,,operation ,adjustments--,what to ,do #e ,gasoline #c ,getting ,ready to ,start #c ,hand ,lever #f ,oiling #c ,slow ,speed1 ,brake and ,reverse #f ,spark--,how ,controlled #g ,speed--,how ,controlled #g ,starting #e ,starting in ,cold ,weather #f ,,rear ,,axle ,differential ,gear--,how ,removed #cg ,rear ,axle--,how to ,remove ,parts #cg ,universal ,joint--,to ,disconnect #cg ,,running ,,gear ,about ,wheels #da ,care of ,springs #dc ,cups--,how ,installed #da ,its ,care #dj ,lubricating the ,bearings #dc ,remove ,front ,axle #dj ,roller ,bearings--,how ,installed #dc ,steering ,apparatus #dd ,wheels #da ,,transmission ,bands #cc ,clutch #ca ,planetary ,transmission--,what ,is ,it #ca ,transmission--,how ,assembled #cc ,model ,t ,truck ,worm1 ,how ,removed #ea ,lubricating the ,differential #ea ,the ,ford ,starting and ,lighting ,system ,type of ,system #ee ,the ,starting ,motor--,what if it ,fails to ,act #ee ,oiling the ,starter and ,generator #eg ,the ,starter--,how ,removed #eh ,the ,bendix ,drive--,how ,assembled to ,starting ,motor #eh ,the ,generator--,how ,removed #eh ,the ,battery--,repairing and ,recharging #ei ,,transcriber',s ,,note -,obvious print and punctuation errors fixed4 -,a ,table of ,contents was not in the original work2 one has been produced and added by ,transcriber4