,,lett]s ,,f ,,! ,,holy ,,l& ,,ag5ts ,,am]ica ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company #fd #ff ,,fif? ,,av5ue1 ,,new ,,york ,,canada ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company ,,( ,,canada1 ,,ltd4 #bg ,,ri*mond ,,/reet ,,we/1 ,,toronto4 ,,india ,,macmillan ,,company1 ,,ltd4 ,,macmillan ,,build+1 ,,bombay #cji ,,b[ ,,baza> ,,/reet1 ,,calcutta ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,/>t 7,,frontispiece7 ,,lett]s ,,f ,,! ,,holy ,,l& ,,by ,,elizabe? ,,butl] ,,) ,,sixte5 ,,illu/rations ,,9 ,,col\r ,,by ,,! ,,au?or ,illu/ration3 colophon ,,london ,,adam ,,& ,,*>les ,,black #aijf ,publi%$ ,m>* #aijc ,repr9t$ ,july #aijf ,,to ,,my ,,"m ,,*ri/iana ,,?ompson ,,preface ,^! lett]s1 writt5 to my "m1 & publi%$ *iefly at h] reque/1 c lay no claim to lit]>y wor?2 _! only possible value lies 9 _! be+ descriptive ( impressions receiv$ on ! spot ( t ,l& :i* /&s alone 9 its "* ^u ! map ( ! _w4 ,b ! read] w m easily excuse ! %ortcom+s ( my p5 ?an1 ,i hope1 he w ev] d ^? ( my p5cil6 ,i w make no apologies = ! sket*es1 save to rem9d ! read] t mo/ ( !m _h to be done 9 ha/e4 ,!y are necess>ily consid]ably r$uc$ 9 size 9 ! reproduction1 s z to suit !m to ! book =m4 ,x 0 a happy circum/ance = me t my husb&'s appo9tm5t to ! ,comm& at ,alex&ria %\ld h enabl$ u to realize ?is j\rney4 ,a f\r-weeks' leave j all[$ ( our accompli%+ ! :ole t\r4 ,! wid] r\nd t includes ,damascus & ,palmyra w\ld1 ( c\rse1 necessitate a mu* m ext5d$ holiday4 ,! "t ( ye> *os5 by my husb& = our visit 0 "o 9 :i* no religi\s fe/ivals 7 be+ celebrat$1 s t we %\ld be sp>$ ! sight ( t di/ress+ w>r+ ( cre$s t "o regrets at ,j]usalem m ?an any:]e else4 ,also ! spr+ season is ! heal?ie/ & mo/ agreeable1 & we tim$ our j\rney s z to beg9 & end x ) ! moon :i* beautifi$ all our nights4 ,we are *iefly indebt$ to ,mr4 ,aquil9a1 ! v capable & c\rte\s ag5t = ,messrs4 ,cook & ,son at ,alex&ria1 = ! p]fect way 9 :i* ! ma*9]y ( ! exp$ition 0 manag$ = u4 ,)\t su* good transport & camps "o does n travel z smoo?ly z we did4 ,to ! ,ar*bi%op ( ,alex&ria we owe a debt ( gratitude = 8 k9d (fices 9 help+ to r5d] our way s pleasant4 ,,elizabe? ,,butl]4 ,,gov]nm5t ,,h\se1 ,,devonport1 ,*ri/mas ,day1 #aijb4 ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations #a4 ,frontispiece ,,fac+ ,,page #b4 ,jaffa #h #c4 ,! ,c5aculum4 ,site ( ! ,h\se ( ! ,la/ ,supp] #bf #d4 ,9 ! ,g>d5 ( ,ge?semane4 ,noonday4 ,look+ t[>ds ,valley ( ,jeho%aphat #cj #e4 ,be?any #cb #f4 ,a9 ,k>eem1 reput$ bir?place ( ,john ! ,bapti/1 f ro( ( ,conv5t ( ! ,visitation #cf #g4 ,solomon's ,pools1 ne> ,j]usalem1 look+ t[>ds ,dead ,sea #ch #h4 ,be?lehem f ! ,%eepfold1 ,field ( ,boaz #db #i4 ,! ,pla9 ( ! ,jordan1 look+ f ,new ,j]i*o t[>ds ,m\nt ,pisgah #dh #aj4 ,! ,pla9 ( ,esdraelon1 f foot ( ,tabor1 ) ! village ( ,naim 9 di/ance #fj #aa4 ,our ,fir/ ,sight ( ,lake ,galilee #fb #ab4 ,galilee1 look+ t[>ds ,h]mon #fd #ac4 ,galilee1 look+ f ne> ! m\? ( ! ,jordan t[>ds ! ,m\nt ( ,beatitudes & ,tabor #ff #ad4 ,naz>e? at ,sunrise #fh #ae4 ,/4 ,jean d',acre #gb #af4 ,ru9s ( ! ,crusad]s' ,banquet+ ,hall1 ,a?leet #gh ,! illu/rations 9 ?is volume h be5 engrav$ & pr9t$ by ! ,c>l ,h5ts*el ,col\rtype ,process ,,lett]s ,,f ,,! ,,holy ,,l& ,,9 ,,! ,,adriatic1 #bh? ,febru>y #ahi-4 ,my4444--,i am out on ! d>k wat]s ( ! ,adriatic4 ,x is late1 & ! p on bo>d are little by little subsid+ into _! cab9s1 & ,i %all write y my fir/ lett] en r\te = ! ,holy ,l&4 ,if all is well ,i %all jo9 ,w4 at ,alex&ria1 & we %all h our long-look$-=w>d-to exp$ition f !nce4 ,v5ice has giv5 me a memorable s5d-(f1 look+ h] lovelie/ ?is radiant day ( spr+1 & 7 ,i n go+ :]e ,i am go+ my ?\ghts w\ld l+] regretfully among/ ^? lagoons already left s f> beh9d4 ,i wat*$ to ! v la/ ! lovely city gradually fad+ f view 9 a fa9t rosy flu%1 back$ by a blue-grey mi/1 & z we /ood out to sea all l& _h sunk away & ! sun set 9 a crimson cl\d1 s5d+ a column ( gold d[n to u on ! p]fectly unruffl$ wat]s4 ,lat] on ! moon1 high ov]head1 %9+ ?r\gh ! mi/1 made ! sea look l blue air1 & q undi/+ui%able f ! sky4 ,! horizon be+ lo/ we seem$ to be float+ ?r\gh space1 & ! only solid ?+s to be se5 7 ! moon & our fell[ planets & ! />s1 s t ,i felt z ?\gh ,i _h pass$ out ( ?is _w altoge!r4 ,inde$ "o does leave ! ord9>y _w :5 %ap+ "o's c\rse = ,pale/9e6 ,,port ,,said1 ,sunday1 #e? ,april #ahi-4 ,my4444--,we are moor$ at ,port ,said on bo>d ! l>ge ,messag]ies /eam]1 hav+ left ,alex&ria at #e4cj ,p4,m4 ye/]day on our way to ,jaffa4 ,:at a hide\s place is ?is6 ,& ?is is ! ,v5ice t mod]n comm]ce has conjur$ up out ( ! sea4 ,truly typical6 ,z ,i look at ! deep ranks ( /eam]s l9+ ! ,canal m\?1 begrim$ ) coal-du/ & besmir*$ ) br[n smoke1 ,i might be at ! ,liv]pool ,docks1 s mu* is ! light ( ?is ,l& ( ,light obscur$ by _! fumes4 ,on ! banks are dump$ d[n quantities ( t9 h\ses ) ca/-iron supports to _! v]&ahs4 ,:5 my m9d rev]ts to ! m]*ant city ( ! ,adriatic & comp>es x ) ?is fl[] ( mod]n comm]ce ,i don't feel impress$ )1 or 9 ! lea/ ?ankful =1 our mod]n ,progress4 ,la/ night1 :5 we arriv$1 a b>ge ( ,a*]on came alongside full ( negroes 9 sooty robes1 "o gnaw+ a raw beef bone by ! light ( ! tor* 9 ! b[s4 ,!y 7 com+ to coal u4 ,&1 be+ coal$1 we %all draw light out ( d>kness1 lovel9ess out ( hide\sness1 & ?is ev5+ we %all be tak+ our c\rse to ! ,long-promis$ ,l&6 ,:]e %all ,i f9i% ?is8 ,is x possible t my life-long wi% is n[ s soon to be accompli%$8 ,no two p1 ,i suppose1 receive ! same impression ( ! ,holy ,l&4 ,none ( ! books ,i h read tally z to ! feel+s x awak5s 9 travell]s4 ,h[ w x be ) me8 ,,ramleh1 ,,on ,,! ,,pla9 ,,( ,,%>on1 #f? ,april4 ,at sunrise ?is morn+ ! ?robb+ ( ! screw sudd5ly ceas$1 & z ,i w5t to ! port-hole ( our cab9 ,i beheld ! lovely coa/ ( ! ,l& ( ,*ri/1 ab\t a mile di/ant1 ) ! exquisite t[n ( ,jaffa1 typically ,ea/]n1 gr\p$ on a rock by ! sea1 & appe>+ above huge1 heav+ waves1 ^: grey-blue tones 7 mix$ ) rosy reflections f ! cl\ds4 ,"h 0 no mod]n h>b\r ) pi]s & jetties1 no mod]n w>eh\ses1 none ( ! *>act]i/ics ( a seaport ( our "t4 ,jaffa is mu* z x mu/ h look$ to ! ,crusad]s2 & we approa*$ x1 aft] leav+ ! /eam]1 mu* z pilgrims mu/ h done 9 ! ,middle ,ages4 ,! ,messag]ies %ip c\ld approa* no ne>] on acc\nt ( ! rocks1 & we _h to be r[$ a%ore 9 op5 boats--v l>ge1 /\t craft1 fit to resi/ ! trem5d\s waves t ?und] aga9/ ! rocky ramp>ts ( ,jaffa4 ,h[ (t5 ,i h imag9$ ?is l&+1 & h gone ?r\gh x 9 delici\s anticipation6 ,ev]y?+ 0 made z pleasant z possible to u1 ,mr4 ---- com+ on bo>d to direct ! proce$+s1 & a ,franciscan monk also bo>d+ ! /eam] ) greet+s f ,j]usalem1 at ! reque/ ( ! ,ar*bi%op ( ,alex&ria4 ,z our boat 0 ! la/ to leave ! /eam] ,i _h "t to wat* ! disconc]t+ process ( trans-%ipp+ ! o!r t\ri/s :o all w5t (f 9 ! fir/ boats1 & no?+ ,i h ev] se5 ( ! sort c\ld comp>e ) :at ,i beheld dur+ ^? brea?less mom5ts4 ,! effect produc$ by brawny ,syrian boatm5 tussl+ ) eld]ly ,briti% & ,am]ican females 9 sun-helmets & blue spectacles1 & at ! "r mom5t1 :5 ! /eam] heav$ to />bo>d & met ! boat ris+ on ! cre/ ( a p>ticul> wave1 pu%+ !m by ! %\ld]s f above1 & pull+ !m into ! boat f bel[1 0 a ?+ to rememb]4 7,to g d[n ! ladd] 0 q impossible1 s viol5t 0 ! bump+ ( boat aga9/ %ip47 ,to miss ! "r mom5t 0 to h to wait till ! /eam] :i* !n roll$ to port1 & ! boat :i* !n sank into ! tr\gh ( ! sea1 met aga9 ) ! next lur*4 ,! poor t\ri/s said no?+2 !y hadn't "t giv5 !m = ! feeble/ prote/1 b !y look$ q daz$ :5 /uck d[n 9 _! seats4 ,?anks to our k9d fri5ds we _h a boat to ourselves & we 7 n work$ (f s exp$iti\sly1 be+ ?us able to submit ) some?+ m approa*+ grace4 ,we _h a l>ge crew ( r[]s1 & be+ only ourselves1 ! monk1 & ,mr4 ----1 we w5t light4 ,?ree or f\r times ! helmsman _h to be extra vigilant z a huge roll]1 :i* hid ev]y?+ beh9d x1 came rac+ 9 our wake1 & lift+ u z ?\gh we 7 s mu* seawe$1 c>ri$ u =w>d ) dizzy swiftness4 ,woe betide t boat :i* su* a wave %\ld /rike broadside on6 ,at ea* crisis ! /roke o> sang out a w>n+1 & r$\bl$ 8 "w1 ! p]spiration c\rs+ d[n 8 face4 ,! :ole crew sang an answ] to 8 wild signal 9 a b>b>ic m9or4 ,no?+ c\ld be m invigorat+ ?an ?is exp]i5ce2 "o mom5t :5 hoi/$ on ! cre/ ( a wave "o saw ,jaffa1 ! ,pla9 ( ,%>on1 & ! hills ( ,judea ahead1 & a/]n ! ,messag]ies /eam] & small craft rid+ at an*or1 & ! next mom5t no?+ betwe5 "o & ! sky b jagg$ & curl+ cre/s ( wild bill[s6 ,on l&+ at ! rocks we 7 hoi/$ up slipp]y /eps 9 m iron grips4 ,on su* occasions x is useless to hesitate--inde$ !y don't let y--& z y don't "k :at is be/ = y1 y _h mu* bett] at once surr5d] y\r individuality & become a passive piece ( goods if y don't want a brok5 limb4 ,we imm$iately f\nd ourselves 9 su* a picturesque cr[d z ev5 my ,egypt-saturat$ eyes took new delight 91 & we pass$ ?r\gh ! ,cu/om-h\se ) ! ag5t oblig+ly cle>+ all be=e u1 & got into a little c>riage aft] climb+ on foot ! /eep "p ( ! t[n4 ,:at a t[n6 ,no description ,i h yet read does full ju/ice to its tumble-d[n picturesqu5ess4 ,^? black ar*ways l cav]ns1 ^? crook$ /reets fill$ ) p1 camels1 & donkeys--all ?is to me is fasc9at+4 ,i am too hurri$ to pause "h long en\gh to try & def9e ! diff]5ce betwe5 life "h & life 9 ,egypt4 ,!re is n "h ! b>b>ism ( ! latt]'s picturesqu5ess1 & "o feels "h m ! beauty ( ! true ,ea/4 ,i don't see ! abject squalor ( ,egypt1 & ! p's dresses are m v>i$4 ,all ?is /one masonry is v acceptable aft] ! brick & mud ( ,egyptian hovels4 ,"h is ! ess5ce ( ,asia--!re1 ( ,africa4 ,i am afraid ^! rem>ks are crude1 b ,i ?9k ! def9ition is a j "o4 ,z we drove to ! little ,g]man inn 9 ! outskirts ( ! t[n1 we notic$ ! air gett+ ri*] ) ! sc5t ( orange-fl[]s1 & soon we pass$ into ! region ( ! orange-or*>ds4 ,! trees 7 creamy :ite ) d5se blossom1 & ! ripe fruit 0 dott$ ab\t 9 ! masses ( :ite4 ,! honey !y gave u at breakfa/ 0 f ^! orange-fl[]s4 ,"h our dragoman1 ,isaac1 met u4 ,i made my fir/ sket*--! fir/1 ,i tru/1 ( a s]ies ,i m>k$ d[n be=e leav+ ,alex&ria4 ,x 0 ( ,jaffa1 se5 ov] ! orange-trees f ! inn g>d51 & *>m+ x 0 to sit !re 9 ! cool %ade1 ) birds s++ ov]head z nev] "o he>s !m 9 ,egypt4 ,fragm5ts ( classical pill>s /ood ab\t & s]v$ z seats "u ! *equ]$ %ade ( fl[]+ fruit-trees along ! g>d5 pa?s4 ,! ,m$it]ranean appe>$ to my "r1 & ov]head sail$ great pe>ly cl\ds 9 ! vibrat+ blue ( ! fre% spr+ sky4 ,i mu/ say ,i felt v happy at ! reality ( my pres5ce on ! soil ( ,pale/9e6 ,illu/ration3 ,,jaffa ,,! upp] "p ( ! t[n is se5 ov] ! tops ( orange or*>ds4 ,"t1 morn+4 ,at #b ,p4,m4 we />t$ 9 a c>riage l our de> old fri5d1 ! ,vettur9o1 = ,ramleh1 our halt+-place = ! night4 ,h[ c ,i put be=e y ! sc5es ( lovel9ess we pass$ ?r\gh8 ,! c\ntry 0 a va/ pla9 ( roll+ :eat1 bord]$ 9 ! blue di/ance ) ! t5d] hills ( ,judea4 ,?is l& ( ! ,phili/9es f> surpass$ my expectations 9 its ext5t1 its gr& sweep ( l9e1 its bread? ( col\r & light & %ade4 ,x 0 "s "t be=e we came out on ! ,pla9 ( ,%>on1 & we drove fir/ a long way betwe5 orange-or*>ds bord]$ along ! road by gigantic h$ges ( prickly pe>4 ,our ,vettur9o 0 drawn by ?ree horses abrea/1 all ) bells1 & x 0 exhil>at+ to set out at a fa/ trot along ! easy road 9 company ) o!r j+l+ & :ip-crack+ vehicles1 & escort$ by horsem5 9 brilliant ,syrian co/umes da%+ along on _! little ,arabs1 & c>ry+ _! long ornam5tal guns slung across _! backs4 ,i _h j "o horrible glimpse 7( :i* ,i said no?+1 z ( "s guilty ?+71 j z we />t$1 ( a railway eng9e "u "s palm-trees4 ,x is wait+ !re ! completion ( ! l9e to ,j]usalem to puff & :i/le its beauty-m>r+ c>e] to ! ,holy ,city4 ,i am ?ankful my good luck has br\ght me "h j 9 "t to escape ! sight ( a railway & its att5dant eyesores 9 ?is sacr$ l&4 ,:y ru% ?r\gh ?is little c\ntry1 e y>d ( :i* is preci\s8 ,an express tra9 c\ld run 9 two h\rs f ,dan to ,be]%eba--& :at !n8 ,be=e em]g+ on ! ,pla9 we pass$ a :ite mosque-l build+ plac$ betwe5 two cypresses by ! roadside1 :i* is suppos$ to /& on ! site ( ! place :]e ,pet] rais$ ,dorcas to life4 ,be t z x may1 ! :ite dome & ! black-gre5 cypresses are *>m+4 ,! soil ( ! c\ntry1 n[ be+ pl\gh$ 9 all directions betwe5 ! gre5 :eat-fields1 is ( a ri* gold5 col\r1 l t ,i notic$ ) su* pleasure ar\nd ,si5na1 & makes a pleas+ h>mony ) ! vivid gre54 ,! de> olive-tree1 belov$ ( my *ildhood1 is "h 9 its v home4 ,i hail$ its p9ky-grey foliage & its ho>y old gn>l$ trunk4 ,& n[ = ^? wildfl[]s t all travell]s :o are s well advis$ z to come "h 9 spr+ h told u (4 ,well may !y speak ( !m ) rapture6 ,z we proce$$ !y increas$ 9 v>iety1 & s abundant 7 !y t !y made tracts & wide regions ( col\r ov] ! l&4 ,come "h 9 spr+1 ,o travell]6 & n 9 ! arid1 du/y1 burnt-up autumn4 ,on ent]+ ! ,pla9 ( ,%>on we saw to our left ! t[n ( ,lydda1 ) ,/4 ,george's ,*ur* gleam+ 9 ! sun%9e4 ,nev] h ,i se51 ev5 9 ,irel&1 fre%] effects ( cl\d %ad[ & sunlight ov] roll+ spaces ( wav+ gre5 corn1 & ev5 ! sky 0 typically ,we/ ( ,irel&4 ,yet lo6 9 ! =egr\nd /r+s ( camels1 mules1 & wild ,b$\9s & c>acol+ ,ba%i-,baz\ks6 ,! pl\gh+ 0 done by t9y ox51 two abrea/1 & sometimes a tall camel /alk$ z lead]4 ,on arriv+ at ,ramleh we walk$ to ! great t[]1 "s di/ance out ( ! t[n1 f ! top ( :i* ,i _h my long-look$-= view ( ! :ole ( ,phili/ia--nor?w>d to ,c>mel1 we/w>d to ! sea1 ea/w>d to ! m\nta9s ( ,judah4 ,z ! sun sank ! t9ts deep5$ on t lovely pla91 & no?+ on e>? c\ld be m beautiful ?an t imm5se view4 ,i made a ha/y wat]-col\r sket* up !re1 b :at c "o d 9 a few m9utes ) su* a sc5e8 ,a sad spectacle await$ u z we rea*$ ! ,g]man inn4 ,z we walk$ ,i _h become absorb$ 9 ! contemplation ( ! limpid sky1 :]e ! la/ l>k 0 c>oll+ to ! s9k+ sun1 & ( ! m\nta9s ^: rosy flu% 0 fad+ into ! cool greys t already veil$ ! pla91 :5 my eyes s9k+ l[]1 ,i beheld 9 ! cold grey ( ! n>r[ /reet1 rang$ along a /one wall1 a r[ ( lep]s wait+ = alms4 ,life has no sadd] detail ?an ! lep]4 ,z ,i approa*$ !m ) a co9 ! ne>e/ ( ^! poor creatures put out a f+]less palm on :i* ,i plac$ ! money1 & hav+ only holl[ sockets 9 ! place ( eyes x h&$ x to its neighb\r1 :o1 be+ also eyeless1 pass$ x on to "o 9 ^: fle%less face !re l+]$ ! remnant ( an eye4 ,?is "o's h& lift$ ! co9 to its fragm5t ( eye to see its value1 & deposit$ x 9 ! recesses ( its flutt]+ rags t only half veil$ ! decay+ body4 ,a l[ wail pass$ along ! l9e1 & bony arms 7 /ret*$ out 9 gratitude4 ,& !n we g to our table d'hte & com=table b$s1 & !y--:]e d !y sleep8 ,d !y lie d[n on ^? b>e bones8 ,j]usalem1 #g? ,april #ahi-4 ,my4444--,we left ,ramleh e>ly ?is brisk1 fre% morn+1 ! air full ( sc5t f ! wildfl[]s4 ,frre ,b5ot1 ! ,flemi% ,franciscan :o met u on bo>d ! /eam]1 came ) u1 & an ,engli% lady :o _h all b brok5 d[n ! day be=e ?r\gh ! jolt+ ( a %&rydan t _h be5 palm$ (f on h] & h] husb& at ,jaffa4 ,s ) ! fri> & ,mrs4 ,g---- inside1 ,w4 on ! box1 & ,mr4 ,g---- foll[+ 9 ! a=esaid %&rydan ) ,isaac1 we set (f 9 ! usual :ip-crack+1 %\t+1 & pranc+ mann] = ,,j]usalem6 ,! fir/ po9t ( int]e/ ,i 0 look+ = 0 ,ajalon4 ,z we dipp$ d[n f "o ( ! hills trav]s$ by ! road 9 /eep zigzags x unfold$ its fre% lovel9ess on our left1 b we c\ld n see ! actual site ( ,jo%ua's battle1 z x 0 too deep 9 ! folds ( ! hills4 ,?is view 01 p]haps1 ! lovelie/ ( all1 & no?+ c\ld be fre%] ?an ^? cornfields & ri* spaces ( pl\gh$ e>? 9 ! light t /ream$ d[n f s pure a sky4 ,n[ & !n a s+le horseman ) ! well-kn[n long gun inlaid ) "m-(-pe>l1 & ) 8 ,arab all ov] tassels1 da%$ pa/ u1 do+ fantasia to impress u /rang]s4 ,! proce$+ 0 nev] )\t success z f> z ,i 0 conc]n$4 ,at #i4cj we left ! pla9 & at once ent]$ ! hills ( ,judea1 :i* are mu* m uni=mly /ony ?an "o w\ld suppose !m to be f a di/ance4 ,we soon /opp$ at a wayside khan1 ab\t half-a-doz5 ,vettur9os be+ assembl$ 9 ! y>d1 & all ! horses 7 re/$4 ,we !n began ! asc5t ( ! de> ,hill ,c\ntry1 fragrant ) memories ( ,m>y on h] j\rney made 9 ha/e f ,naz>e?4 ,i did n expect su* a long & high asc5t1 hav+ fail$ to realise f description ! imm5se altitude ( ! height ( l& t holds ,j]usalem4 ,?+s se5 are mighti] ?an ?+s he>d4 ,! wildfl[]s increas$ 9 beauty & v>iety1 *ief1 ,i ?9k1 among/ !m be+ ! crimson anemones ) black c5tre :i* toss$ _! gay heads ev]y:]e 9 ! m\nta9 breeze4 ,olives & /ones1 /ones & olives on all sides4 ,"h & !re a c>ob tree or a clump ( tam>isk at a tomb4 ,z we cre/$ ! fir/ pass & look$ back we saw ! pla9s ( ,phili/ia1 ) ,ramleh :ite 9 ! sun%9e & ! sea beyond %9+ 9 a long fla% ( silv]4 ,be=e u to ! "r soon loom$ aga9/ ! cl\ds ! great tombs ( ! ,maccabees1 & away to our left on a high cone appe>$1 remote & awful1 ! ,tomb ( ,samuel1 a dom9at+ feature ov] all ! l&4 ,z we desc5d$ on ! o!r side ( ! pass we came 9 sight ( ,a9 ,k>eem1 ! reput$ bir?place ( ,john ! ,bapti/1 on ! side ( a high hill4 ,! words ( ! ,magnificat s\nd$ 9 "o's m9d's e>4 ,x is a gr& situation & mo/ /rik+ z se5 f ! road4 ,at ! bottom ( ! valley =m$ by ! hill we 7 desc5d+ & ! hill ( ,a9 ,k>eem runs ! dry b$ ( ! brook f :i* ,david *ose 8 smoo? /one = ,golia?4 ,w4 w5t d[n & select$ j su* a smoo? :ite /one z a mem5to4 ,at ! bottom ( ! valley we halt$ at a ,russian khan & ,i took a little sket* ( a bit ( hillside & a pe>-tree 9 blossom4 ,y mu/ h se5 ?is l& ) second sight1 = y h always se5 a fl[]+ fruit-tree 9 y\r m5tal pictures ( x at ,ea/]tide & ,lady ,day4 ,pale/9e is ess5tially ! l& ( little fruit-trees4 ,on leav+ ! ,russian khan1 :]e we beheld *romo-li?ographs ( ! late & ! pres5t ,cz>s on ! walls1 & 7 int]e/$ 9 ! high ,muscovite boots ( our ho/1 we _h ano!r great asc5t1 & soon aft] rea*+ ! top my feel+s became m & m focuss$ on ! look-out ahead4 ,i saw signs t we 7 approa*+ ,j]usalem4 ,!re 7 m p on ! road1 & a deta*m5t ( ! ,salvation ,army 0 m>*+ along ) a /rangely incongru\s appe>ance4 ,yet only incongru\s on acc\nt ( ! dress1 =1 morally1 ^? e>ne/ s\ls are among/ ! fitte/ to be "h4 ,i /ood up 9 ! c>riage1 b ,w4 f ! box saw fir/4 ,he rais$ 8 hat1 & a second aft] ,i _h ! indescribable s5sation ( see+ ! top ( ! ,m\nt ( ,olives1 & !n ! ,walls ( ,zion6 ,x 0 ab\t ?ree o'clock4 ,we left ! c>riage outside ! ,jaffa ,gate1 = no :eel$ vehicle c trav]se ! /reets ( ,j]usalem1 & we pass$ 9 on foot4 ,we _h fir/ to g to ! hotel1 ( c\rse1 a v clean little place fac+ ! ,t[] ( ,david4 ,!nce we soon set out to beg9 our wond]ful exp]i5ces4 ,i _h :at ,i c only describe z a qualm :5 we rea*$1 9 b a few hundr$ /eps1 ! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re4 ,x 0 all too easy & too quick4 ,y c imag9e ! s5se ( reluctance to ent] !re )\t m recollection4 ,i _h a feel+ ( regret t we _h n wait$ till ! morr[1 & ,i w\ld w>n o!rs n to g on ! day ( arrival4 ,we rea*$ ! ,*ur* ?r\gh /one lanes ( indescribable picturesqu5ess1 teem+ ) ! life ( ! ,ea/1 & !re ,i saw ! ,j]usalem ,jews ,i _h s (t5 read (--extraord9>y figures 9 long coats & r\nd hats1 a r+let fall+ 9 front ( ea* e>1 :ile ! re/ ( ! head is %av$4 ,!y look$ :ite & unheal?y1 _m ( !m r$-ey$ & all m or less b5t1 ev5 ! y\?s4 ,no great] contra/ c\ld be se5 ?an betwe5 ^? poor creatures & ! ,arabs :o jo/le !m 9 ^! cr[d$ alleys1 & :o are su* up/&+ a?letic m51 ) cle> br[n sk9s1 clean-cut features1 & heads turban$ maje/ically4 ,!y /ride along ) a spr+ 9 e /ep4 ,!re are ,greeks "h1 & ,russians 9 cr[ds1 & ,kurds1 ,arm5ians1 & ,kopts--9 fact samples ( all ! dwell]s ( ! ,ne> ,ea/1 we>+ _! national dresses2 & ?r\gh ?is fasc9at+ assemblage ( types & co/umes1 mo/ di/ract+ to my ?\ghts1 we ?read$ our way to-day1 asc5d+ & desc5d+ ! lanes & baza>s1 up & d[n wide %all[ /eps1 till we came 9 front ( ! ri* portal ( ! ,*ur* ( *ur*es4 ,) our eyes dazzl$ ) all t col\r1 & ) ! sudd5 brilliance ( ! sun%9e :i* flood$ ! op5 space 9 front ( ! faade1 we pass$ 96 ,d n imag9e t ! *ur* /&s impos+ly on an em95ce1 & t its proportions c /rike ! behold]4 ,y g d[nhill to x f ! /reet1 & x is cr[d$ on all sides b ! front by o!r build+s4 ,b its gloomy antiquity & =mlessness are ! v ?+s t /rike "o ) conv9c+ =ce1 = "o sees at once t ! *ur* is !re = ! sake ( ! sites x encloses1 & t1 !re=e1 x _c h any ar*itectural symmetry or plan :atev]1 & its enorm\s ext5t is necessitat$ by its enclos+ ! *apels ov] ,calv>y & ! ,holy ,sepul*re & _m o!rs besides1 :i* ! ,empress ,hel5a erect$ ov] ea* sacr$ spot ^: id5tity %e asc]ta9$ ) s mu* dilig5ce4 ,x is v natural to wi% t ,calv>y 0 9 ! op5 air1--lonely1 "u ! sky t saw ,*ri/ suff] on ! ,cross4 ,b already1 9 ! ye> #cbf1 ,/4 ,hel5a f\nd ! place ( execution buri$ "u m\nds ( rubbi% purposely ?r[n ^u x2 & :]e w\ld any trace ( x be to-day _h %e n enclos$ x--:at ) man's de/roy+ acts & ! viol5ce ( ! /orms t h beat5 aga9/ ?is rock = n9ete5 c5turies & m8 ,x 01 to beg9 )1 b a small em95ce close outside ! walls4 ,on ent]+ ! *ur* y disc]n 9 ! dep?s ( ! gloom ( ! tortu\s int]ior ! r\gh /eep /eps cut 9 ! rock t lead to ,calv>y1 on y\r "r h&4 ,on climb+ to ! top1 grop+ 9 ! twilight1 y f9d y\rself 9 a *apel l9$ ) plates ( gold & hung ) votive lamps4 ,! sacr$ floor1 :i* is ! v top ( ,calv>y1 is entirely cas$ 9 gold1 & "u ! ,greek alt> is %[n ! socket ( ! ,cross1 a hole 9 ! rock4 ,our alt> /&s to ! prop] left ( ! ,greek1 :i* has ! po/ ( hon\r4 ,desc5d+ f ,calv>y !re is a long /ret* ( twilight *ur* to trav]se be=e we come to ! sepul*re4 ,aga9 ,i _h n realis$1 f ! books ,i h read1 ! great di/ance t sep>ates ! two1 &1 inde$1 _m writ]s 9 _! scepticism h done _! be/ to belittle ! :ole ?+4 ,i confess t be=e to-day ,i 0 mu* "u ! influ5ce ( ^! writ]s1 b ,i h n[ se5 = myself1 a privilege ,i am deeply ?ankful =4 ,x 0 an ov]:elm+ s5sation to f9d ! spaces t sep>ate ! sites s mu* va/] ?an ,i _h expect$1 & to h1 at e /ep1 ! conviction driv5 home t aft] all ! mod]n wrangl+ & disput+ ! old tradition /&s immovable4 ,x c]ta9ly w\ld be h>d to believe t :5 ,/4 ,hel5a came "h ! dwell]s ( ,j]usalem %\ld h lo/ all k ( :]e _! ,t[]-hill /ood 9 ! c\rse ( ?ree c5turies4 ,%e 0 commission$1 z y "k1 by h] son ! ,emp]or ,con/ant9e1 t ard5t conv]t to ,*ri/ianity1 to seek & secure ) ! utmo/ p]sev]ance & c>e all ! holy sites1 & to h] untir+ lab\rs we owe _! id5tification to ?is day4 ,! great c5tral dome ( ! *ur* rises above ! *apel ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re1 :i* *apel /&s 9 ! va/ c5tral space1 a casket enclos+ ! rock holl[$ out into ,our ,"l's ,tomb & its ante-*amb]4 ,y ent] ?is ante-*amb] &1 /oop+ d[n1 y pass on y\r h&s & knees into ! sepul*re itself4 ,on y\r "r is ! little l[1 r\gh-hewn tomb1 cov]$ ) a slab ( /one worn into holl[s by ! lips ( c\ntless pilgrims ?r\gh\t ! long ages ( our era4 ,a monk keeps wat* !re1 & beside him !re is only space en\gh = "o p]son at a "t4 ,i h made _m attempts to tell y my ?\ghts & feel+s dur+ ^? bewild]+ mom5ts ( my fir/ visit1 b ,i f9d x is impossible1 & y c und]/& :y4 ,,j]usalem1 #h? ,april #ahi-4 ,my4444--,to-day 0 exquisitely bright & full ( he>t-/irr+ sights to u4 ,^? :o h n be5 "h c sc>cely1 ,i ?9k1 realise ! s5sation ( liv+ 9 daily intimacy ) ! sc5es ( ,our ,"l's ,passion4 ,?9k ( ly+ d[n at night "u ! %ad[ ( ! ,cross4 ,to-day we fir/ visit$ ! ,wail+ ,place ( ! ,jews4 ,/range & pa!tic sight1 ^! weird m5 & wom5 & *ildr5 weep+ & moan+1 ) _! faces aga9/ ! gigantic /ones ( ! wall t =ms ! only rema9+ portion ( ! f\ndation ( _! vani%$ ,temple1 pray+ ,jehovah = its re/oration to ,israel2 & ov] _! heads rises 9 its /rong beauty ! ,moslem ,mosque ( ,om>1 /&+ 9 ! place ( ! ,holy ( ,holies1 ! v>ni%$ tiles ( its dome ablaze ) gre5 & blue 9 ! respl5d5t sun6 ,jews bel[1 ,moslems above1 yet to ! ,*ri/ian1 ,*ri/ ev]y:]e6 ,!n we foll[$ ! ,via ,dolorosa1 :i* w9ds ?r\gh ! d5se t[n1 />t+ f ! ,turki% b>racks on ! site ( ,pilate's h\se4 ,( c\rse1 ,i ne$ n say t ! surface ( ,j]usalem be+ sixty to eighty feet high] ?an x 0 9 ,our ,"l's "t1 ! real ,via ,dolorosa is buri$ f> bel[1 b ! g5]al direction may be ! true "o4 ,/range to see ! ,/ations ( ! ,cross appe>+ at int]vals on ! walls ( alleys cr[d$ ) ,jews & ,mahometans4 ,!re are no evid5ces ( ,turki% intol]ance 9 ,pale/9e t ,i c see6 ,! la/ /ations are1 ( c\rse1 9 ! great ,*ur*4 ,we foll[$ ! walls f ,m\nt ,moriah to ,zion & r\nd by ,accra to ! ,damascus ,gate1 outside :i* /&s ,g5]al ,gordon's ,skull ,hill1 :i* he s t5aci\sly clung to z ! real ,calv>y 7on acc\nt ( its resemblance to a gigantic skull71 toge!r ) ! sepul*re 9 a g>d5 at ! foot ( ! m\nd1 :i* he held 0 t ( ,joseph ( ,arima!a4 ,z f> z my eye c tell1 ! di/ance betwe5 ,skull ,hill & ?is sepul*re is mu* ! same z betwe5 ,calv>y & ! sepul*re t tradition hall[s4 ,i s5d y a sket* t ,i made on ! spot ( ,gordon's sepul*re1 to %[ y ! univ]sal plan ( ^! burial-places4 ,y w see ?ree tombs 7_! lids are gone7 9 ! inn] *amb]4 ,at ! ,holy ,sepul*re only ,our ,"l's is pres]v$1 tally+ ) ! "o ,i h m>k$ ) a cross2 ! o!r two h be5 cut away4 ,illu/ration ,i made a v hurri$ sket* ( ,j]usalem1 ) ! ,m\nt ( ,olives & a glimpse ( ! m\nta9s ( ,moab1 f ! hotel ro(4 ,_h ,i be5 p]*$ a little high] ,i c\ld h %[n ! head ( ! ,dead ,sea4 ,we visit$ ! ,mosque ( ,om>1 "o ( ! great sights ( ! _w4 ,! imm5se plateau on :i* ! ,temple /ood is p>tly occupi$ by ?is1 ! second olde/ ( mosques1 & by great op5 spaces plant$ ) gigantic & anci5t cypresses & by a small] mosque4 ,! :ole gr\p is surpass+ly beautiful1 b :at ?\ghts ru% into "o's m9d 9 ?is place6 ,a vision ( ,h]od's ,temple fills ! :ole space = a few mom5ts ) its :ite & gold5 spl5d\r1 its =e/ ( %9+ p9nacles fla%+ 9 ! sun1 & its ti]s ( pill>$ c\rts culm9at+ 9 ! ,holy ( ,holies4 ,& !n ! reality lies be=e u aga9--great empty spaces & two pagan mosques4 ,f !nce we w5t out by ,/4 ,/eph5's ,gate1 & look$ d[n on ,ge?semane on ! opposite side ( ! ,valley ( ,jeho%aphat4 ,v du/y & /ony look$ t "p ( ! ,m\nt ( ,olives1 & ! excavations = ! build+ ( num]\s *ur*es by v>i\s sects h greatly spoilt its repose & beauty & di/urb$ its seclusion4 ,b "o mu/ n compla94 ,all ,*ri/ians naturally long to h a place ( wor%ip !re4 ,i _c describe to y ! *>m ( life "h4 ,all "o's "t is fill$ to ov]fl[+ ) :at ,i may call ! holy fasc9ation ( ! place1 & ?\gh all ?is cont9ual walk+ & /&+ ab\t may be some:at fatigu+ 9 a physical s5se1 ! m9d nev] is we>y & ! fatigue is pleasant4 ,at night1 s\nd sleep1 born ( pr(\nd cont5tm5t at ! day's do+s1 s full ( ke5 int]e/ )\t excitem5t1 r5ews "o's vitality = ! succe$+ day's enjoym5t4 #i? ,april #ahi-4 ,?is has be5 a day ( cle> lovel9ess1 mu* hott] & altoge!r exquisite4 ,9 ! morn+ we fir/ w5t to ! ,c5aculum1 ! rambl+ build+ erect$ ov] ! site ( ! h\se ( ! ,la/ ,supp]1 :i* ,/4 ,hel5a f\nd & enclos$ 9 a *apel1 & also includ+ ! und\bt$ ,tomb ( ,david1 jeal\sly gu>d$ f u by ! ,mahometans4 ,! ,c5aculum /&s out lonely & impressive1 look+ t[>ds ! m\nta9s ( ,moab & ! dim regions to ! s\? ( ! ,dead ,sea4 ,i w %[ y a sunset sket* ( ?is4 ,i 0 n pleas$ to feel hurri$ ?r\gh ^? rooms & n>r[ passages & /airs by ! guide 9 a r n]v\s mann]1 :5 ,i p]ceiv$ t ! reason 0 ! unfri5dly looks ( ! ,mahometans :o mov$ ab\t u1 & :o evid5tly res5t ! pres5ce ( ,*ri/ians s ne> ! royal tomb4 ,i 0 too mu* di/ract$ to realise :]e ,i 01 & inde$1 n till we get away f ! noise & bu/le ( t[n life into ! solitudes %all we be able to fix our ?\ghts z we w\ld wi%4 ,f ! ,c5aculum we walk$ half-way d[n to ! valley ?r\gh :i* ! brook ,c$ron fl[s1 & by v mu* ! same pa? t ,our ,"l mu/ h foll[$ to g to ,ge?semane aft] ! ,la/ ,supp]4 ,d[n to our "r 0 ! desolate ,geh5na--! ,pit ( ,tophet--n[ only inhabit$ by lep]s1 & a gha/ly holl[ x look$4 ,beyond rose t hill :]e once sat ,molo* ( ! r$-hot h&s1 & deep d[n on ! declivity betwe5 u & ^! l&m>ks ( t]ror lay ! ,pott]'s ,field4 ,:5 look+ f "s comm&+ height ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,c5aculum4 ,,site ,,( ,,! ,,h\se ,,( ,,! ,,la/ ,,supp] ,,! mass ( build+s %[n includes1 9 ! c5tre ( ! block1 ! rema9s ( ! ,*apel built by ! ,empress ,hel5a ov] ! site ( ! h\se ( ! ,la/ ,supp]4 ,! ,tomb ( ,david at ! left-h& extremity is surm\nt$ by a dome4 ,"t1 sunset4 ov] ! city & its surr\nd+s ! m9d /agg]s at ! ?\ght ( ! appall+ cata/rophes t h bur/ ^u ?is n>r[ area--! human agony t has be5 conc5trat$ "h ?r\gh s _m ages1 ( :i* we read 9 ! ,old ,te/am5t & 9 ! writ+s ( ! e>ly hi/orians ( our era4 ,tw5ty-five fi]ce sieges has ?is m\nta9 fa/ness endur$4 ,no o!r city ev] w5t ?r\gh su* suff]+s4 ,if we c\ld really conc5trate our ?\ghts ^u ! ev5ts t h pass$ ^u ?is gr\nd :i*1 f su* a /&po9t z ours ( ?is morn+1 ! sight c compass 9 "o sweep ( vision1 x w\ld be too pa9ful to be endur$4 ,p]haps if ,i c\ld see ! place on "s bleak twilight or 9 a s\nd+ ?und]/orm ,i might dimly appreciate ! long agony ( ,j]usalem1 b to-day ! ,april air 0 full ( sc5ts ( fl[]s & aromatic %rubs1 & ! bees 7 humm+2 !re 7 little butt]flies among/ ! anemones1 & ! l>k 0 9 full song4 ,! v _s ( ! ,gospel peace seem$ to float 9 ! g5tle air ( spr+4 ,i 0 glad ,i c\ld n conc5trate my ?\ghts on ! gloomy side ( t wondr\s prospect4 ,f ! cave :i!r ,/4 ,pet] crept away to weep aft] ! d5ial ( ,our ,"l is c]ta9ly ! f9e/ view ( ! site ( ! ,temple to be obta9$ any:]e4 ,?is cave is "s di/ance d[n ! pa? f ! ,c5aculum & ! h\se ( ,caiaphas1 :i* latt] we _h also visit$1 n[ a beautiful *apel4 ,9 ! aft]noon we _h our fir/ ride1 & w5t by ! old /ony track s (t5 trodd5 by ! ,savi\r to ,be?any4 ,nev] %all ,i =get ! view ( ! ,dead ,sea1 ,jordan1 & m\nta9s ( ,moab :i* bur/ ^u u z we cre/$ ! summit ( ! ,m\nt ( ,olives & pass$ by ! traditional site ( ! ,asc5sion4 ,! ride d[n to ,be?any1 on ! rev]se slope ( ! ,m\nt1 0 en*ant+1 & h[ solemn all 0 to u--! deep black tomb ( ,laz>us1 ! site ( ! h\se 7n[ a ru9$ *apel7 :]e ,jesus s (t5 /ay$4 ,we return$ by ! l[]1 or new1 road f ,j]i*o1 & _h at sunset t gr& view ( ,j]usalem f ! l[] slopes ( ,olivet :i* has s (t5 be5 pa9t$4 ,we res]v$ ,ge?semane = ano!r "t1 b visit$ ! anci5t ,*ur* ( ! ,assumption on our way home4 ,,j]usalem1 #aj? ,april4 ,my4444--,we sp5t ! :ole morn+ 9 ! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re1 ,i rema9+ alone = an h\r aft] ,w4 left to write lett]s at ! hotel4 ,!re 0 h>dly ano!r s\l 9 t va/ build+1 except a few prie/s & ! monk :o keeps wat* ov] ! ,tomb4 ,i f9d ,i c write lea/ ab\t ?is1 ! climax ( :at makes ,pale/9e ! ,holy ,l&4 ,at two o'clock ,i w5t to ,ge?semane1 escort$ by ,isaac1 :]e ,i sket*$ till six4 ,i w\ld h pref]r$ a moonlight sket* ( t g>d51 b ,i _h to be cont5t ) a v hot daylight "o4 ,x 0 blissful sitt+ !re undi/urb$ "u ! old olives ^: trunks are z h>d z /one1 & ,i pleas$ myself ) ! idea t !y might be (f%oots ( (f%oots ( ! trees t %ad$ ,our ,"l4 ,:5 ,titus _h all ! trees ar\nd ,j]usalem cut d[n1 "s sapl+s may h be5 ov]look$6 ,my protect+ dragoman 0 some:]e out ( sight1 & ! ,franciscan monks :o own ?is mo/ sacr$ ,god's ,acre 7 unobtrusively t5d+ ! fl[]s some:]e ab\t4 ,insects humm$ amid ! fl[]s1 all ! little burr+s ( a hot day 7 9 ! air1 x 0 a place ( pr(\nd peace4 ,z ,i return$1 t[>ds sunset1 & climb$ ! /eep sides ( ! ,valley ( ,jeho%aphat up to ,/4 ,/eph5's ,gate--! %orte/ way to ! ,city--,i look$ back t[>ds ! sc5e ( my happy lab\rs1 & a sight lay !re bel[ me :i* impress$ me1 ,i am sure1 = life4 ,! we/]n sides ( ! abyss :i* ,i 0 climb+ 7 already 9 ! %ades ( night1 = twilight h>dly exi/s "h1 b ! opposite slopes receiv$ ! r$ sunset light 9 its fulle/ =ce1 & 9 t sc>let gleam %one out 9 int5se relief ?\s&s ^u ?\s&s ( flat tomb/ones t cov] ! bones ( c\ntless ,jews :o h1 at _! dev\t reque/1 be5 buri$ !re to await1 on ! spot1 ! ,la/ ,judgm5t :i* !y & we & ! ,mahometans all believe w take place 9 t valley4 ,_h ,i m "t ,i w\ld mu* l to make a /udy ( ?is truly awful place 9 t la/ ray ( ! vani%+ sun1 = no?+ c\ld be m impressive & m t\*+1 b high]-/&+ subjects claim all ! "t ,i c sp>e4 ,my int5tion is to use all my sket*+ mom5ts = sc5es connect$ ) ,our ,"l's reveal$ life4 ,i resolutely d5y ,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,! ,,g>d5 ,,( ,,ge?semane4 ,,noonday4 ,,look+ ,,t[>ds ,,valley ,,( ,,jeho%aphat ,,"p ( ! ,g>d5 9 =egr\nd "u old olive-trees & cypresses4 ,/ations ( ! ,cross along pa? inside b\nd>y wall4 ,walls ( ,j]usalem & top ( ,mosque ( ,om> 9 backgr\nd4 ,"t1 e>ly aft]noon4 myself ! indulg5ce ( elaborately sket*+ ! p & animals t seem to call out to ! arti/ at e turn1 ?\gh ,i h outl9$ "s 9 my note-book4 ,any:]e else our fell[-travell]s at ! hotel w\ld be too tempt+ 9 my light] mom5ts1 s comical !y look 9 _! sun-pro( co/umes4 ,:y su* prep>ations aga9/ ! ,april sun8 ,b "o is too deta*$ "h to be mu* di/ract$ by _! unspeakable outl9es4 ,&1 talk+ ( di/ractions1 ,i really d n f9d ! drawbacks ( ,j]usalem1 :i* s _m travell]s give prom95ce to 9 acc\nts ( _! exp]i5ces1 s v bad4 ,inde$ our life "h is )\t a s+le drawback1 to my ?9k+4 ,saturday1 #aa? ,april #ahi-4 ,! heat is greatly increas+4 ,at #a4cj we drove to ,be?lehem ) our fri5d1 ,frre ,b5ot4 ,! hill c\ntry we pass$ ?r\gh 0 v /ony & rocky1 & only cultivat$ "h & !re4 ,aga9 olives & /ones1 /ones & olives ev]y:]e4 ,! inhabitants are a spl5did race1 ! m5 a?letic1 ! wom5 graceful1 ?\gh _! faces are sadly disfigur$ by tattoo+4 ,we 7 on ! look-out = ! little city ( ,david long be=e x appe>$1 & v beautiful x look$ z we beheld x f a high hill1 cr[n+ a slightly l[] "o amid a bill[+ sea ( o!r hill-tops4 ,x has a maje/ic appe>ance on its rocky ?rone1 & its l>ge1 massive conv5tual build+s add greatly to its /atel9ess4 ,we pass$ t pa!tic monum5t1 ,ra*el's ,tomb1 at ! cross roads1 our road lead+ to ! left1 & ! o!r div+ d[n to ! "r t[>ds ,hebron4 ,we asc5d$ ,be?lehem's hill & 7 soon 9 its /eep1 n>r[1 slipp]y /one lanes1 utt]ly unfitt$ = a c>riage4 ,we drove at once to ! ,franciscan ,conv5t & !n to ! ,*ur* built ov] ! site ( ! ,nativity1 & _h ! happ9ess ( kneel+ at ! sacr$ spot :]e ! mang] /ood1 :i* is %[n 9 ! rocky vaults bel[1 & m>k$ ) a :ite /> inlaid 9 ! floor4 ,! cave 0 ri* & lovely ) votive lamps & gold & silv] gifts4 ,little by little ! dislike ,i _h to ! too precise localisation ( ! ev5ts we love mo/ 9 ! ,bible is disappe>+4 ,speak+ = myself1 ,i f9d t1 on ! spot1 ! m9d dem&s x4 ,b ,i "k t _m p regret x4 ,i only wi% t1 9 _! sep>ate & individual ways1 all ,illu/ration3 ,,be?any ,! locality ( ! ,tomb ( ,laz>us is m>k$ by a little dom$ t[] to ! extreme "r ( ! t[n4 ,ru9s ( *apel built ov] site ( h\se ( ,laz>us1 ,m>?a1 & ,m>y are 9 c5tre ( village4 ,! road to ,j]usalem ( ,our ,"l's "t passes ov] ! br[ ( ! hill to ! "r4 ,mid-day4 :o come "h may feel ! happ9ess t ,i d4 ,9 a v d>k ni*e 9 ! rocks close to :]e ! :ite /> %one out 9 ! floor ,i p]ceiv$ ! figure ( a ,turki% s5try1 bree*-load+ rifle & all1 /&+ on 8 little wood5 /ool1 motionless4 ,well1 d y "k1 ?\gh my eyes saw him my m9d 0 n !reby di/urb$ any m ?an x 0 by ! ,turki% gu>d at ! door ( ! ,*ur* ( ! ,holy ,sepul*re4 ,i c\ld n br+ my ?\ghts d[n to t figure & ! reason ( its be+ !re4 ,we visit$ ,/4 ,j]ome's ,cave1 close by1 :]e he work$1 ne> ! sc5e ( 8 ,r$eem]'s bir?1 giv+ to ! _w ! translation into ! ,vulgate ( ! ,holy ,scriptures4 ,!n we walk$ d[n to ! field ( ,boaz1 full ( wav+ gre5 :eat1 9 ! mid/ ( :i* /&s ! %eepfold surr\nd$ by a /one wall4 ,y mu/ imag9e ! %eph]ds look+ up to ,be?lehem f !re on t ,*ri/mas eve4 ,! little city is se5 f ! %eepfold high up aga9/ ! sky to ! we/ ab\t two miles (f4 ,i _h only "t = a p5cil outl9e ( ?is view1 hop+ to col\r x on a future occasion4 ,all ! c\ntry r\nd 0 v pa/oral1 & j su* a "o z "o w\ld expect4 ,wildfl[]s 9 great quantities1 & l>ks--little tame ?+s ) cre/s on _! heads--enjoy+ ! sun & ! breeze1 q unmole/$2 lovely sweeps ( corn 9 ! valleys1 olive-clad or q grassless hills b\nd+ ! horizon all r\nd--c y see x8 ,h[ _m figures ( ,our ,lady we saw ab\t ! fields & lanes ) babes 9 _! arms6 ,surely ! old ma/]s got _! facts ab\t ! drap]y ( _! ,madonnas f "h1 :]e all ! wom5 we> blue & r$ robes1 exactly z ! ,italian pa9t]s h !m4 ,sunday1 #ab? ,april4 ,we w5t to sev5 o'clock mass at ! ,lat9 ,alt> on ,calv>y4 ,we 7 9 a d5se knot ( p1 :o 7 kneel+ on ! floor 9 t d>k1 l[-ro($ *apel1 lit by ! s(t light ( lamps hang+ be=e ea* %r9e4 ,h[ (t5 we say 9 our pray]s1 ,"h1 at ! foot ( ,?y ,cross4 ,we 7 lit]ally !re4 ,aft] breakfa/ ) ! prior at ! ,casa ,nova ,mona/]y1 :i* us$ to be ! ho/elry = travell]s be=e ! hotel 0 9 exi/5ce1 we drove ) ,frre ,b5ot to ! reput$ bir?place ( ,john ! ,bapti/1 ,a9 ,k>eem 9 ! ,judean ,hills4 ,i believe !re is consid]able d\bt z to ?is site1 b !re is ! possibility4 ,x 0 a v poetical l&scape t we pass$ ?r\gh1 & !re 7 _m fl[]+ apricot1 pe>1 & almond trees z we ne>$ ,/4 ,elizabe?'s m\nta9 home4 ,we fir/ visit$ ! site ( ! ,bapti/'s bir? high up 9 ! nor? end ( ! village1 n[ cov]$ by a *ur*1 & !n we cross$ ov] to ! s\? side ( ! valley to ,/4 ,elizabe?'s c\ntry h\se1 also n[ a *apel1 :]e h] c\s9 visit$ h]4 ,!re is a deep well ( mo/ cool cry/al wat] at ! side ( ! alt> 9 ?is ,*apel ( ! ,visitation1 :i* belongs to ! ,spani% monks4 ,f ! ro( ( ! conv5t ov] ?is *apel ,i made a sket* ( ! little t[n on its hillside plant$ ) cypress trees4 ,! heat "h 9 ?is enclos$ valley 0 v great4 ,monday1 #ac? ,april4 ,we 7 up at five = our drive to ,hebron4 ,i long$ to see ?is mo/ anci5t city & t mosque :i*1 )\t any d\bt :atev]1 cov]s ! d\ble ,cave ( ,ma*pelah :i* ,abraham b\ght = 8 own & 8 desc5dants' bury+-place4 ,!re1 said ,jacob :5 dy+1 !y buri$ ,abraham & ,s>ah 8 wife2 !re !y buri$ ,isaac & ,rebekah 8 wife2 & !re ,i buri$ ,leah1 & !re also !y buri$ ,jacob4 ,?9k ( x6 ,if we c\ld look into ^? tombs & see ! v bones ( ,abraham & ,isaac & ! mummy ( ,jacob1 = ! ,bible tells u he 0 embalm$ accord+ to ! mann] ( ! ,egyptians4 ,altoge!r1 ?\gh1 our visit to ,hebron has r giv5 me ! horrors4 ,ne> ,ra*el's tomb we left ! ,be?lehem road & div$ d[n to ! ,vale ( ,hebron1 ! heat increas+ greatly z we desc5d$4 ,we halt$ = ! mid-day refection 7h[ m ?an usually horrid ! ^w lun* s\nds "h67 & re/$ 9 ! %ad[ ( a rock 9 a ?ir/y l&1 :]e tradition says ,philip met ! ,eunu* j\rney+ f f>-(f ,m]oe on ! ,upp] ,nile4 ,x 0 a wild]ness ( /ones1 :]e ! big liz>ds ( ,pale/9e 7 9 /rong =ce1 pant+ ov] ! top ( e rock1 _! black heads & goggle eyes upturn$ to ! burn+ sky 9 a v comical way4 ,close to ,hebron is a nice cool ,g]man ho/elry1 :]e we re/$ be=e desc5d+ to ! gloomie/ t[n ,i h ev] se5 9 ! ,ea/1 ) ,illu/ration3 ,,a9 ,,k>eem1 ,,reput$ ,,bir?place ,,( ,,john ,,! ,,bapti/1 ,,f ,,ro( ,,( ,,conv5t ,,( ,,! ,,visitation ,*ur* built ov] suppos$ site ( ,za*>ias' & ,elizabe?'s h\se to "r ( t[n1 high up1 :]e ,/4 ,john 0 born4 ,ro( ( *apel built ov] site ( _! c\ntry h\se1 :]e ,m>y visit$ h] c\s91 9 =egr\nd4 "s ( its baza>s l tunnels1 into :i* sc>cely any light c\ld ent]4 ,"h 9 ! gloom we met insol5t-look+ ,moslems & spectral ,jews1 _! /rongly-contra/$ figures & faces appe>+ = a mom5t 9 ! twilight z !y pass$ u4 ,& outside x 0 bl9d+ noontide sunlight4 ,we w5t all r\nd ! huge mosque t gu>ds ! preci\s tombs ( ! patri>*s1 b _h we attempt$ to ent] we %\ld h _h a bad qu>t] ( an h\r f ! ,mahometans4 ,^! sons ( ! ,bondwoman w\ld /one any son ( ! ,free :o w\ld attempt an entry4 ,!re is a little black hole 9 ! wall1 :i* ,i am sure does n pi]ce x ?r\gh1 :i* we are told we c look ?r\gh & see ! tombs f outside1 b ,i saw no?+ 9 ! hole b ! beady eye ( a liz>d4 ,we d n feel z ?\gh we w\ld c>e to revisit ,hebron4 ,we drove back to ! ,g]man khan :i* 0 full ( exhau/$ ,am]icans :o _h also return$ f ! ov5 ( ,hebron4 ,mo/ ( !m _h be5 try+ to comb9e botany ) ,biblical rese>*1 & ne> _m ( ! figures t lay prone on ! divans ,i saw ,bibles & limp flora on ! floor4 ,t[>ds ev5+ we drove f ?is place ( re/ a long way back on ! road to ,j]usalem1 b n f> %ort ( ,be?lehem we came 9 sight ( our camp6 ,h[ *>m+ & inspirit+ t sight 0--?ree sn[y t5ts pit*$ by ! ,pools ( ,solomon "u ! walls ( a ,crusad] ,ca/le1 ) "s fifte5 saddle & baggage animals picket$ close by1 & ! de> old ,union ,jack fly+ f ! c5tral t5t6 ,i 0 delight$ at ! fact t our camp life 0 to beg9 t night4 ,ev]y?+ /ruck u z 9 excell5t ord]1 our horses1 saddles & bridles1 ! t5ts1 ! s]vants & all4 ,^? ,pools ( ,solomon are ?ree imm5se res]voirs ( wat] :i* ! ,wise ,k+ made to supply ! ,temple at ,j]usalem4 ,myriads ( frogs 7 enliv5+ ! ev5+ air ) _! multitud9\s croak+s :i* increas$ to deaf5+ proportions z night clos$ 94 ,i took a ha/y sket*4 ,mu* hyssop gr[s "h1 ,asp]ges me1 ,dom9e1 hyssopo et mundabor4 #ad? ,april4 ,i 0 greatly pleas$ ) my fir/ night "u canvas4 ,to h grass & /ones & little aromatic h]bs = a b$room c>pet 0 a ,illu/ration3 ,,solomon',s ,,pools1 ,,ne> ,,j]usalem1 ,,look+ ,,t[>ds ,,dead ,,sea ,%[s ! c5tral "o ( ?ree res]voirs :i* are built "o bel[ ! o!r on a slope incl9+ t[>ds valley ( ! ,dead ,sea4 ,measurem5ts ( ,solomon's ,pools3--,upp] "o1 #chj ft4 by #bcf ft41 #be ft4 deep2 middle "o1 #dbc ft4 by #bej ft41 #ci ft4 deep2 l[] "o1 #ehb ft4 by #bjg ft41 #ej ft4 deep4 new & delightful s5sation to me4 ,we />t$ ?is morn+ at sunrise1 my sket*+ ?+s h&ily /rapp$ to my saddle by ,w4's directions1 9 a flat /raw aumonire4 ,isaac _h swa!d 8 t>b\% 9 a magnific5t cufia1 & our ret9ue wore ! baggy g>b ( ,syria4 ,w4 rode a /eel-grey ,arab1 ,i a silv]-grey1 ,isaac a roan-grey1 & ! man1 :om we call ! fly+ column1 because he is to accompany u ) ! lun* bags1 :ile ! heavy column ) baggage1 t5ts1 etc41 goes on ahead by %ort-cuts1 rode a *e/nut4 ,we pass$ ?r\gh ,be?lehem & d[n to ! ,field ( ! ,%eph]ds1 :]e ,i complet$1 z well z ,i c\ld 9 ! heat & gl>e1 my sket* begun ! o!r day4 ,a gr\p ( "s tw5ty ,russian pilgrims arriv$ z we did1 & we saw !m 9 ! grotto ( ! %eepfold1 ea* hold+ a light$ tap] & respond+ to ! *ant ( _! old prie/1 :o _h a head :i* w\ld d admirably = a picture ( ,abraham4 ,^! poor m5 7 9 fur coats & high clumsy boots1 & "o told u he _h come f ,tobolsk1 & _h be5 two ye>s on t tramp4 ,he assur$ u he c\ld manage 8 return j\rney 9 no "t1 only t5 mon?s or s4 ,_! devotion 0 pr(\nd1 z x always is1 & 0 utt]ly un-self-consci\s4 ,i ?9k we ,engli% are too apt to suppose t because devotion is demon/rative x is n deep4 ,great p$e/rians z we are1 h[ _m ,engli%m5 w\ld walk = two ye>s to visit ?is %eepfold8 ,t two ye>s' te/ borne by ! ,russian peasant mu/ h gone v deep4 ,i rememb] read+ ) mu* approval1 :5 a *ild1 ) a *ild's n>r[-m9d$ness1 ,miss ,m>t9eau's %ock$ description ( ! demon/rative piety ( a noble ,russian lady on ,calv>y1 :o repeat$ly laid h] head 9 ! hole :]e ! ,cross _h be51 weep+ & pray+ & behav+ altoge!r 9 a mo/ un-,engli% mann]4 ,! memory ( t passage came back to me to-day z ,i saw ^! r\gh peasants1 s supremely unconsci\s ( our pres5ce1 ?r[+ !mselves he>t & s\l into _! adoration ( ,god1 & ,i ?\ght ( ,m>y ,magdal5e & h] pro/rations & te>s4 ,aft] ! s]vice = ! ,russian pilgrims fa!r ,abraham fell asleep "u an olive-tree1 ) 8 ho>y head on a /one :i* he _h cu%ion$ ) dock leaves1 & ! y\ng] prie/ :o _h tak5 "p 9 ! s]vice w5t back to 8 pl\gh+1 :i* he _h left on ! approa* ( ! pilgrims4 ,!y bo? _h _! ,fellahe5 clo!s "u _! cassocks1 & !y wore ! tall ,greek sac]dotal cap4 ,!y 7 natives ( ,be?lehem4 ,abraham bless$ our meal1 b refus$ to p>take ( x1 except ! fruit1 z ?is is ! ,greek ,l5t4 ,we _h a long talk ) him ?r\gh ,isaac1 & a lively !ological argum5t1 :i* _h ! usual success ( su* und]tak+s1 enhanc$ by its filtration ?r\gh a ,mahometan int]pret] conv]t$ to ,prote/antism by ! ,am]ican ,bapti/ ,mission at ,jaffa4 ,t old patri>* 0 a magnific5t /udy z he sat1 po9t+ heav5w>ds "u ! olive-trees & disc\rs+ ( 8 ,fai?1 ) ,be?lehem ris+ 9 ! di/ance beh9d 8 mo/ v5]able head4 ,he made "s c(fee = u1 a return civility = ! fruit1 & z we rode (f _m 7 ! p>t+ salutations betwe5 u & ! gr\p ( p :o _h be5 ! audi5ce ( our !ological argum5ts1 made un9telligible by ,isaac4 ,among ! cr[d 0 an ex-,papal ,z\ave :o turn$ out to h be5 ord]ly to a fri5d ( ours 9 ! old days at ,rome4 ,we rode along a track 9 ! field ( ,boaz1 n[ knee-deep 9 corn1 a cavalry soldi]1 :o _h be5 s5t to escort u ?r\gh ! dang]\s region1 lead+ ! way4 ,8 escort+ seems to consi/ ( p]iodical fantasia manoeuvres1 :5 he %akes 8 horse out at full gallop1 pick+ a fl[] 9 mid-c>e] & circl+ back to pres5t x to me1--a picturesque proce$+ 9 t float+ caftan & :ite & br[n /rip$ burn\s4 ,i am pleas$ to see ?is figure 9 our =egr\nd c>acol+1 curvet+1 & c>e]+4 ,he is 9 su* pleas+ h>mony ) 8 native l&scape4 ,he & ,isaac are all ov] pi/ols & weapons ( v>i\s sorts1 b ,w4 says t ! necessity = arms 9 ,pale/9e is n[ a ?+ ( ! pa/1 & only a bogey4 ,our c\rse lay s\?-ea/1 z we wi%$ to visit ! f>-fam$ ,greek mona/]y ( ,m> ,saba on our way to our camp4 ,=m]ly !re 0 great dang] & difficulty 9 go+ to ?is extraord9>y place1 ow+ to ! fi]ce robb] ,b$\9s t haunt$ ^! regions1 & 9 _m acc\nts ( ,pale/9e travel ,i h read ( ! disappo9tm5t ( ! writ]s at ! impossibility ( mak+ ?is visit4 ,x is an awe-inspir+ place4 ,! ,illu/ration3 ,,be?lehem ,,f ,,! ,,%eepfold1 ,,field ,,( ,,boaz ,! t[n is %[n on a hill4 ,! ,conv5t ( ! ,nativity /&s to ! extreme left4 ,field ( ,boaz ) gre5 :eat 9 middle di/ance1 enclosure ( %eepfold 9 =egr\nd4 monks h ev5 d5i$ !mselves t great e>?ly consolation ( natural beauty :i* our mona/]ies1 z a rule1 are s well situat$ to enjoy4 ,on ! edge ( an abyss ( rock1 ?r\gh :i* ! n[ dry ,c$ron once ru%$ to ! ,dead ,sea1 & fac+ ! opposite rock pi]c$ ) ! caves ( =m] h]mits1 x is s plac$ z to h n "o beautiful ?+ )9 sight1 & z little ( ev5 ! light ( ! sky above to give a ray ( *e]fulness4 ,we saw pigeons & paddy birds arriv+ 9 flocks to ! rock l$ges1 & _h glimpses ( furtive furry ?+s com+ r\nd corn]s4 ,we m>vell$ at ! pres5ce ( ! paddy birds s f> f wat] till we 7 told ! pleas+ fact t all ^! wild ?+s s9ce "t immemorial h be5 9 ! habit ( congregat+ "h to ! s\nd ( ! bugle1 to be f$ by ^? ,greek monks4 ,!y 7 wait+ = _! d9n]-bell6 ,i soon _h en\gh ( ,m> ,saba1 b ,w4 ?\ght a mon? !re ) two camel-loads ( books w\ld be v pleasant4 ,we espi$ our camp aft] leav+ ?is dread place a long way bel[ u 9 a hot hole1 among/ mo/ desolate m\nta9s1 ^: c9d]-col\r$ sides nei!r di/ance nor atmosph]e c\ld turn purple1 & "s ( ^! 7 pale yell[1 spott$ at ! top & half-way d[n ) black %rubs1 convey+ an irresi/ible impression ( m\nta9s cov]$ ) titanic leop>d-sk9s4 ,! deadness ( ! ,dead ,sea 0 beg9n+ to be felt4 ,a great w9d arose 9 ! night1 & _h n ,w4 se5 himself to ! t5t ropes & pegs our t5t w\ld c]ta9ly h be5 bl[n d[n1 & we %\ld h be5 smo!r$ 9 a mass ( flapp+ canvas4 ,z x 01 ! t5t %ook & heav$ at its moor+s & crack$ l pi/ol-%ots1 "s ( ! furniture com+ d[n ) a cra%4 ,all night ! pi/ol-%ots1 ! flapp+s1 & ! creak+s w5t on1 s t ,i 0 r disconc]t$ at los+ my night's re/1 = ! morr[ 01 z ,w4 said1 to be my te/ day4 ,if ,i /ood x well--x be+ ! h>de/ we %\ld h--,i w\ld d ! j\rney4 ,w$nesday1 #ae? ,april #ahi-4 ,we 7 (f at sunrise on a trem5d\s ride1 d[n to ! ,dead ,sea1 up ! ,jordan & r\nd to ,j]i*o--ab\t eight h\rs 9 ! saddle1 exclusive ( dism\nt$ halts4 ,we 7 v =tunate1 = ! w9d :i* _h s tr\bl$ our slumb]s kept away ! heat1 :i* 9 ^! regions is mo/ try+4 ,we desc5d$ to #acjj feet bel[ ! level ( ! ,m$it]ranean1 & n a tree 0 to be se5 till we ga9$ ! gre5 banks ( ,jordan1 :]e we made our halt aft] half an h\r's re/ on ! bea* ( ! ,dead ,sea4 ,all my expectations ( ! desolation ( ,lake ,asphaltites 7 fulfill$1 b ! bitt] burn+ ( its salt f> surpass$ :at ,i expect$4 ,i c\ld realise h[ ,lot's wife1 l+]+ 9 h] flight f ! doom$ ,sodom to look back till ! fr+e ( ! de/ruction t engulf$ ! ,cities ( ! ,pla9 cov]$ h]1 rema9$ /iff5$ into ! semblance ( a pill> ( salt 7/atue ( salt 9 our v]sion7 :5 my h& 9 dry+1 aft] ,i _h b dipp$ x into ! cry/al-cle> wat] t n[ fills ! holl[ delv$ by ! swirl ( ! great cataclysm1 0 /iff & :ite ) ! pla/]-l br9e4 ,! wan look ( ! blue %rubs t gr[ "h 0 l some?+ 9 a dream1 & ! air 0 full ( huge locu/s1 brilliant yell[1 toss$ by a high hot w9d4 ,! e>? 0 crack$ by ! heat into deep *asms1 & ! treeless m\nta9s r\nd ! sea 7 lo/ at its f>!r end 9 a mi/ ( hot air4 ,!re 0 great beauty ) ?is desolation1 b ! m9d felt oppress$ z well z ! body4 ,! blue ( ! sea 0 exquisitely delicate1 & gave no idea 9 its s(t beauty ( ! fi]ce bitt]ness ( its wat]s4 ,i felt deep emotion on sight+ ,jordan's swift-roll+ /ream--a t\*+ & unspeakably de> riv]--b beautiful only = its hol9ess1 = ! wat] is ?ick ) grey mud1 & ! banks are tangl$ ) ! %aggy dbris t ! ov]-hang+ trees h caught z ! w9t] flood br\ght !m swirl+ d[n4 ,! heat !re 0 great1 & ! flies made x absolutely impossible to take a sket* ( ! place tradition says saw ! baptism ( ,our ,"l4 ,i 0 mu* disappo9t$1 = ! flies fairly drove u away1 & 9 ! burn+ heat we turn$ our horses' heads t[>ds ,j]i*o1 unable to be> ^! torm5tors any long]4 ,we 7 to camp at new ,j]i*o--a huddl$ gr\p ( mud-pie h\ses situat$ 9 a g>d5 ( lovely trees & %rubs & fl[]s1 :i*1 ow+ to ! abundance ( wat] fl[+ ?r\gh ?is region1 gr[ 9 tropical luxuriance4 ,9 ! f> we/]n di/ance1 above all ! m\nta9-tops int]v5+1 we kept ! ,m\nt ( ,olives 9 view1 ) t tall l&m>k on ! top1 ! t[] ( ! ,russian ,*ur* ( ! ,asc5sion1 & only lo/ x z we ne>$ our camp+-place4 ,be=e u1 to our "r1 a beautiful m\nta9 ( m /ately l9es ?an ^? ( ! weird crags ar\nd x rose solemnly aga9/ ! we/--x 0 ! ,m\nta9 ( ,temptation1 :]e ,our ,"l 0 tempt$ aft] ,8 =ty days' fa/4 ,imm$iately on rea*+ our camp ,i made a sket* ( ! pla91 look+ t[>ds ,m\nt ,pisgah 9 ! l& ( ,moab to ! ea/4 ,i 0 j 9 "t to save ! sunset4 ,w\ld t we c\ld include ,pisgah 9 our pilgrimage1 & receive on our ret9 ! same image ( ! ,promis$ ,l& t ,moses receiv$ on 86 ,9 spite ( ! bay+ ( dogs1 ! bray+ ( donkeys1 & o!r camp noises sleep came swiftly & s\ndly t night4 ,?ursday1 #af? ,april4 ,we set out at six = ,j]usalem1 ! sun ris+ ov] ! m\nta9s ( ,moab4 ,we pass$ ov] ! site ( old ,j]i*o1 & saw :at a magnific5t site !y *ose = x1 back$ by m\nta9s 9 a maje/ic semicircle1 & look+ on ! ,pla9 ( ! ,jordan4 ,! ,bible speaks ( a rose plant 9 ,j]i*o z ( some?+ sup]latively lovely among/ roses1 & "o may ask :y p>ticul>ly 9 ,j]i*o8 ,"h "o c answ] ! "q1 = "o sees h[ ri*ly ! fl[]s gr[ 9 ?is l& ( _m /reams1 :i* is all ! m conspicu\s = its exub]ance z contra/$ ) ! aridity ( ! surr\nd+ regions4 ,i c be/ describe ! fasc9at+ quality ( our j\rney by say+ t x is l rid+ ?r\gh ! ,bible4 ,at e turn "s text 9 ! ,old or ,new ,te/am5t :i* alludes to ! natural features ( ! l&1 spr+s be=e "o's m9d illum9$ ) a light x c\ld n h be=e4 ,i "k _m dev\t ,*ri/ians %r9k f a visit to ! ,holy ,places = fe> (--:at8 ,d n fe>6 ,! reality simply int5sifies1 gives sub/ance & col\r to1 ! ineffable poetry ( ! ,bible4 ,x is simply rapture to see at la/ ! orig9als ( our *ildhood's imag9+s1 &1 believe me1 ! reality becomes m preci\s 9 "o's memory ev5 ?an ! *]i%$ illusion4 ,our ride ?r\gh ?is l& ( little brooks1 runn+ cle> ov] pebbly b$s "u cool foliage1 0 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,pla9 ,,( ,,! ,,jordan1 ,,look+ ,,f ,,new ,,j]i*o ,,t[>ds ,,m\nt ,,pisgah ,wild vegetation 9 ! pla94 ,m\nta9s ( ,moab 9 di/ance4 ,! slight em95ce 9 _! /raight sky-l9e to extreme left is ,m\nt ,pisgah4 ,sunset4 refre%+ aft] my te/ ride ( ye/]day 9 ! dry gl>e4 ,we soon left ?is zone ( v]dure1 h[ev]1 & began ! asc5t to ,j]usalem ?r\gh t gloomy pass :i* ,our ,"l *ose = ! p>able ( ! ,good ,sam>itan4 ,!y are mak+ a road "h1 b1 be+ z yet bridgeless at ! rav9es1 x is n op5 to c>riages4 ,our halt+-place 0 ,be?any1--mo/ l[ly hamlet--& ,i made a sket* ( x at our mid-day halt4 ,we !n proce$$ to our camp+-gr\nd1 :i* ,w4 _h select$ outside ! nor? wall ( ,j]usalem1 & 9 skirt+ ! base ( ,olivet we _h aga9 t great view ( ! city t arti/s love 7& ,i mu/ say h (t5 exagg]at$ z reg>ds ! height ( its rocky p$e/al74 ,= ! fir/ "t !re 0 a hit* 9 ! arrangem5ts = ! camp4 ,on rea*+ ! nor? wall no camp 0 !re1 & we rode 9 & out ( olive-woods & ugly new roads & du/y build+ dbris 9 se>* ( x1 ,isaac appe>+1 at lea/1 to be q at sea4 ,at la/1 aft] s5d+ him v5tre--t]re successively 9 sev]al directions1 we saw him return+ & call+ out t he _h f\nd x4 ,to our horror we f\nd ! p 9 *>ge ( ! baggage _h select$ ! only really hide\s & repulsive spot 9 all ,j]usalem1 ( all places1 ! ,jewi% extra-mural colony6 ,!re 7 our :ite t5ts pit*$ d[n 9 a holl[ full ( ! back-door refuse f ! h\ses ( ?is unsav\ry population1 surr\nd$ by y\?s & b$raggl$ wom5 :o might h j come out ( ,h\ndsdit* to look on at ! prep>ations ( ! camp4 ,! idea ( a night on ?is gr\nd 0 impossible4 ,on cat*+ sight ( ?is /ate ( ?+s ,w4 pu%$ =w>d at a gallop at ! :ole assemblage ( s]vants1 mulete]s & cook1 & ! :ole amalgamat$ cr[d1 & ) an unmi/akable twirl ( 8 /ick told !m to be out ( t2 & ! mulete]s1 s]vants1 & cook fell on _! knees & ) jo9$ h&s call$ out ,p>don6 p>don6 ,9 ! tw9kl+ ( an eye t5ts 7 /ruck & reload$1 d9n] prep>ations bundl$ away & an in/ant movem5t made to ! place beh9d ! nor? wall on ,m\nt ,moriah1 :i* ,w4 _h fix$ ^u 9 ! morn+4 ,he suspects t he 0 disobey$ on acc\nt ( ! ease ) :i* ! s]vants knew !y w\ld obta9 dr9k f ! ,jews4 ,c]ta9ly our f9al encampm5t 0 en*ant+1 ov]look+ ,ge?semane deep d[n to ! ea/1 ) ! battlem5t$ walls ( ,j]usalem be=e u to ! s\?1 & tall p9es wav+ above our t5ts4 ,! moon 0 n[ wax+ bright1 & nev] c ,i =get t ev5+1 z by its light ,i look$ ^u ^! ?+s4 ,:at a *ange 9 ! temp]ature "h6 ,x is q cold4 ,my kit is prov+ well devis$ = ?is c\ntry4 ,y mu/ be prep>$ = ^! v m>k$ *anges ( temp]ature 9 a l& :i* rises s high & s9ks to su* abnormal dep?s bel[ ! level ( ! sea 9 su* a small space4 ,i %all po/ ?is 9 ,j]usalem1 = to-morr[ we set out on a j\rney dur+ :i* no po/-(fices w be f\nd = _m days4 ,friday1 #ag? ,april4 ,my4444--,i cont9ue my lett] 9 di>y =m f notes tak5 on ! m>*4 ,?is morn+ we left r late1 z ! wea!r 0 s cool1 & aft] mak+ "s pur*ases 9 ,j]usalem we set out ) our faces due nor? on our long ride into ,galilee4 ,x 0 aga9 an eight-h\rs-9-!-saddle day1 b ov] su* roll+ /ones t our horses seem$ to me to be go+ at ab\t ?ree miles an h\r4 ,x 0 a relief at ! almo/ impassable places to dism\nt & lead "o's horse4 ,z ,w4 said1 ^! pa?s ( ,pale/9e seem to h be5 r worn by ! p's feet ?an made by _! h&s4 ,^! b>e hills ( ,b5jam9 7 we>y & sad1 b :at a ?rill+ view 0 our la/ "o ( ,j]usalem f a high po9t ov]look+ ! ocean ( m\nta9s t bore af> (f ! isl& ( ! ,holy ,city & its domes4 ,good-bye1 ,j]usalem6 good-bye1 ,olivet6 ,we sat _m m9utes on our horses look+ back at t c5tre ( ! _w1 & !n resum+ our way a turn 9 ! rocky track %ut out ! ,holy ,city f !nce=?4 ,we ov]took a l>ge w$d+ p>ty1 ! m5 arm$ ) long fl9tlocks1 & ! wom5 we>+ brilliant dresses4 ,we all mov$ =w>d toge!r z f> z ,be!l4 ,h[ p[]fully ?is assemblage ( m5 & wom5 & *ildr5 j\rney+ nor?w>d f ,j]usalem repres5t$ t l>ge company 9 :i* 7 ,m>y & ,joseph1 :o came along ?is way1 a day's j\rney1 to ! ev5+ halt+-place at ,be]o?1 & f\nd !re t ! little ,jesus 0 miss+4 ,z ,i 0 ?9k+ ov] ?is & wat*+ ! p1 we pass$ a little goa!rd :o _h evid5tly be5 out on ! hills _m days on duty4 ,8 "m1 :o 0 among/ ! w$d+ p>ty1 cat*+ sight ( h] son--ab\t twelve ye>s old--snat*$ a mom5t to leave ! l9e ( m>* & ran up to him & kiss$ him & wept ov] him1 !n return+ hurri$ =w>d to rejo9 h] companions4 ,t meet+ ( "m & son1 ! b5d+ =m ( ! woman 9 h] r$ & blue drap]y1 :i* conceal$ at t mom5t ! ri* dress worn und]nea?1 ! little goa!rd held close 9 h] arms1 =m$ a gr\p t />tl$ me1 ) my m9d engag$ z x 04 ,on rea*+ ! village ! m5 all let (f _! guns & 7 met by ! p :o _h rema9$ at home4 ,we made our halt at ,be!l4 ,:at a place ( h>d1 gritty1 arid desolation6 ,be?-el1 ! ,h\se ( ,god4 ,f ?is great height ,lot look$ d[n on ! pla9 ( ,sodom1 !n ! acme ( f]tile beauty1 :]e n[ l[]s ! ,dead ,sea6 ,!re are n[ only ! dry bones ( ,be!l left4 ,! goats eat up e gre5 spr\t t appe>s above gr\nd4 ,i c\ld n sket* su* bl9d+ no?+ness at our halt !re4 ,t[>ds ev5+ ! l& grew m beautiful z we j\rney$ on1 b s mu* /ruggl+ ov] b\ld]s & jagg$ rock l$ges made me v glad inde$ to p]ceive ! daily signal t we 7 ne>+ our camp4 ,t signal is ! da%+ =w>d ( ,isaac at full gallop & ! pu%+ =w>d ( ! fly+ column 7! man on ! *e/nut horse ) ! bags71 ^: place is at o!r times 9 ! re>4 ,! /aff 9 camp be+ w>n$ by ^! cavali]s ( our approa* tea is got ready1 & v welcome x is on our arrival4 ,w4 0 on ahead z we scrambl$ up a high] hill ?an ev]1 & :5 ,i saw him wave 8 helmet to *e] me on = a f9al spurt ,i knew re/ 0 close at h&4 ,our camp look$ v lovely j at sunset on a plateau ov]look+ ! hills & valleys ( gre5 ,sam>ia & ! f>-(f m\nta9-tops ( ,galilee6 ,! moon %one brightly & ! air felt q fro/y z we w5t to re/4 ,i always take a little m$itative walk be=e go+ to b$1 a sweet t5 m9utes ea* ev5+4 ,! hurri$ />t 9 ! morn+ & ! r\gh rid+ all day leave "o little "t = quiet ?\ght1 & at our mid-day halts1 :5 circum/ances p]mit1 ,i sket* ) conc5trat$ int5sity aga9/ "t4 ,saturday1 #ah? ,april4 ,to-day 0 breezy & ! c\ntry less /ony4 ,wav+ corn z 9 ,phili/ia refre%es ! eye4 ,we are n[ 9 ! goodly l& ( ,ephraim1 :i* deep5s 9 ri*ness z we advance4 ,we pass$ ?r\gh ,%iloh1 :]e ! ,ark ( ! ,cov5ant re/$ s long1 & ! little ,samuel he>d ! call ( ,god4 ,! place is m>k$ by "s old ru9s--,roman or ,crusad]8 & a =lorn dead tree lies a?w>t !m4 ,a glori\s cultivat$ pla9 op5$ out be=e we rea*$ our halt+-place1 ,jacob's ,well4 ,h[ ,i _h long$ to see ?is well1 :]e ,our ,"l conv]s$ ) ! ,sam>itan woman4 ,b ,i 0 disappo9t$ at be+ unable to make ! sket* ( x ,i hop$ = s mu*4 ,! well is ab\t five feet bel[ ! surface ( a mass ( ru9s4 ,an e>ly ,*ri/ian *apel once enclos$ x1 b ?is has fall5 9 & all b buri$ ! well4 ,b y c imag9e "o's feel+s z "o re/s "o's h& on its edge & realises t ,our ,savi\r sat !re z ,he spoke to ! woman :o _h come to draw wat]4 ,y rememb] t x 0 at ?is well t ,he told ,8 disciples to look up at ! fields already :ite unto h>ve/4 ,!re !y are1 ^? fields1 fill+ ! valley ( ,sy*>4 ,b y _c see !m f ! well n[1 9 ! pit enclos$ by ru9s1 nor ! t[n to :i* ! disciples w5t to buy meats1 nor ev5 ! two great m\nta9s ( ,ebal & ,g]izim t rise s high q close by4 ,?is well is l ! ,cave ( ,ma*pelah1--accept$ by all z au!ntic beyond "q4 ,i cant]$ my horse all ! way up to our camp1 high up 9 an olive-wood on ! o!r side ( ! t[n1 = ,i mu/ say ,i 0 long+ to get ! ride ov] & h a good re/4 ,b ,society duties await$ me6 ,! m9i/]s ( v>i\s d5om9ations came to call on u1 & :5 lat] on ! ,ca?olic prie/ 7an ,italian7 hon\r$ u ) a visit ,i 0 call$ ^u to take ov] ,isaac's duties z int]pret]4 ,we w5t1 ,w4 & ,i1 = a pleasant /roll t[>ds sund[n1 & _h a p]fectly exquisite view ( ,nabl\s1 ! anci5t ,%e*em1 ly+ betwe5 ^? two m\nta9s ^: names rang s sonor\sly to u all 9 *ildhood--! t]rible ,ebal & ! smil+ ,g]izim4 ,a mo/ p]fect1 typical ,ea/]n t[n1 ?is1 emb[]$ 9 orange & pomegranate trees--! home ( ! night+ale1 ^: music bl5ds ) t ( ! multitud9\s cascades e*o+ f ! ov]-hang+ cliffs4 ,a ,turki% s5try came & lit 8 fire close to our t5ts1 & 0 suff]$ to m\nt 8 q unnecess>y gu>d ov] u all night1 ) an eye to back%ee% at sunrise4 ,sunday1 #ai? ,april4 ,! ,day ( ,re/4 ,no travel to-day4 ,exquisite ,nabl\s1 :at a ,p>adise to re/ 96 ,b all 0 n p]fection4 ,we w5t to ,*ur* too e>ly1 by mi/ake1 & _h to wait an h\r be=e ,mass began1 pass+ ! "t 9 ,fr5* small-talk 7inde$ r$uc$ to a m9imum ( smallness on my "p1 = x dw9dl$ away almo/ to no?+7 ) ! c\rte\s ecclesia/ics & ! nuns 9 ! g>d5 ( ! little presbyt]y4 ,z ,i 0 fa/+ ,i 0 n =tifi$ aga9/ ! subsequ5t p]=mance on ! h>monium dur+ ,mass1 by a ,syrian4 ,on ne>+ our t5t1 *e]$ by ! prospect ( breakfa/1 ,i _h ano!r set-back by ,isaac's ann\nc+ ! imm95t arrival ( :at s\nd$ l ! ,rev4 ,vulture1 ! ,lu!ran m9i/]4 ,_h t individual really be5 on ! swoop ,i mu/ h fl$1 b happily t morn+ call nev] took place4 ,x is all v well to laugh1 b ,i felt 9 ! ,pit ( ,tophet4 ,i h sp5t ! re/ ( ! day 9 sleep1 & 9 writ+ to y1 & 9 fasc9at+ /rolls ?r\gh ! t[n ) ,w41 & 9 return+ calls4 ,i am nicely burnt by ! sun & w9d1 = no?+ c\ld induce me to let a veil blur or dim "o s+le glimpse ( ! ,holy ,l&4 ,monday1 #bj? ,april4 ,glori\s breezy wea!r ) fly+ cl\d %ad[s4 ,aga9 eight h\rs 9 ! saddle1 b ! ,sunday re/ has made me q fre% aga94 ,we pass$ to-day ?r\gh ! hill c\ntry ( ,manasseh4 ,aft] rid+ a mile or two out ( ,nabl\s our fly+ column came runn+ up on foot to ! dragoman 9 front to ask :at 0 to be done ) a poor little /[away :o _h begg$ him to let him ride ! baggage horse to escape f 8 unhappy home4 ,8 "m 0 dead & 8 /epmo!r beat him4 ,he look$ s pite\s p]*$ up on ! bags1 b1 ( c\rse1 we c\ld n kidnap him1 & aft] receiv+ "s money he 0 put g5tly d[n on ! roadside4 ,z we rode on we got a la/ sight ( him on ! gre5 bank sway+ to & fro 9 8 desolate grief1 8 g[n mak+ a little p9k dot 9 ! va/ l&scape4 ,our mid-day halt 0 at a f\nta9 9 a fig c\ntry1 & !re we talk$ to ! wom5 & girls :o 7 fill+ _! pit*]s4 ,"o %[$ me by signs h[ ! figs 7 a failure ?is ye>1 ! "y figs all fall+ (f _! /alks be=e rip5+4 ,h] pati5t acceptance ( ! inevitable rem9d$ me ( ! ,italian peasants & _! ,pazi5za1 la volont di ,dio6 ,!n we deflect$ to ! left on our j\rney to visit ,seba/e1 :]e ,/4 ,john is suppos$ to h be5 behead$1 & ) great probability4 ,! ,crusad]s built a magnific5t ,*ur* to 8 memory !re1 ! ru9s ( :i* are v gr&4 ,we rode to ! site ( ! gates ( ! city1 along a pa? l9$ ) classic pill>s1 & at ! end ( ?is av5ue we saw ! sea1 & :]e ,cs>ea1 ! h>b\r ( ,seba/e1 once /ood4 ,our camp t ev5+ 0 at ,a9 ,j591 an ideal ,ea/]n t[n4 ,i 0 n prep>$ = any?+ s beautiful z x look$ 9 ! ev5+ light1 :5 we em]g$ 9 sight ( x f a defile betwe5 hills4 ,we 7 well 9 ! ,pla9 ( ,jezreel1 & lo6 ,h]mon at la/6 ,9 ! light ( ! aft]-gl[ we beheld 8 ho>y head f our t5ts1 to ! nor?4 ,t5d] moonlight succe$$ ! aft]-gl[4 ,all ! mosques & m9>ets 7 light$ up ) delicate gold5 lamps at sunset 7= x is ,ramadan71 z at ,j]usalem & ,nabl\s4 ,?is place is full ( pomegranate trees1 ) _! sc>let blossoms1 & ( fl[]+ tam>isk4 ,tuesday1 #ba/ ,april4 ,(f at sunrise1 ! l>ks s++ ov] ! face ( ! l&4 ,we _h a glori\s ride ?r\gh ! ,pla9 ( ,jezreel or ,esdraelon1 (t5 com+ ^u ! brook ,ki%on & its little trickl+ tribut>ies 9 _! multitud9\s w9d+s1 & =d+ ! same4 ,:at a va/ space is "h1 h[ ,biblical 9 its maje/y1 & h[ tr\bl$ too ) recollections ( battle f remote/ ages ( ,israeliti% hi/ory d[n to ,napoleon's "t4 ,deflect+ to ! "r we climb$ up to ,naim = our halt1 memorable = ! rais+ ( ! wid['s son4 ,!re 0 an imm5se view f ?is little bun* ( mud h\ses t[>ds ,tabor & ,galilee1 ) a =egr\nd ( purple iris4 ,!n desc5d+ aga9 into ! pla9 we rode to ! foot ( ,m\nt ,tabor1 :]e1 9 an olive-wood1 & on pl\gh$ l&1 our camp 0 pit*$4 ,h[ refre%+ x is nev] to be told we are trespass+ 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,pla9 ,,( ,,esdraelon1 ,,f ,,foot ,,( ,,tabor1 ,,) ,,! ,,village ,,( ,,naim ,,9 ,,di/ance ,pla9 full ( gre5 :eat4 ,m\nta9 to left is ,little ,h]mon1 on :i* ! village ( ,naim /&s4 ,t[>ds sunset4 ,on arriv+ ,i *ose to rema9 & make a sunset sket* ( di/ant ,naim on its hill1 :il/ ,w4 rode up to ! top ( ,tabor4 ,w$nesday1 #bbnd ,april4 ,(f aga9 at sunrise ov] ! saddle ( ,m\nt ,tabor4 ,v r\gh rid+ ?r\gh dells ( oak1 :]e ! honeysuckle hung 9 masses & sc5t$ ! air4 ,tabor itself is sc>cely beautiful 9 outl9e1 & l ! magnifi$ m\nds t ! old ma/]s int5d$ = m\nta9s4 ,9 _! pictures ( ! ,transfiguration _! ,tabors are v l ! orig9al4 ,?is 0 our mo/ glori\s day's j\rney1 = x took u to ! %ores ( ! ,lake ( ,galilee4 ,h]mon 9 di/ant ,lebanon 0 visible ahead ( u ?r\gh\t4 ,we rode up to ne> ! top ( ! ,m\nt ( ,beatitudes1 & !n on foot rea*$ ! v top1 & _h our fir/ view ( ! ,sacr$ ,sea f t imm5se height4 ,"h ,*ri/ prea*$ ! ,s]mon on ! ,m\nt1 & d[n !re1 int5sely blue1 lay t de> lake ^: %ores 7 s (t5 trodd5 by ,8 feet4 ,h]mon rose above ! maje/ic l&scape1 & a w>m1 palpitat+ light vibrat$ ov] all4 ,9 a scrap ( %ade f a rock we made our halt1 & ,i _h an h\r & a half = a sket*4 ,!n we rode d[n to ,tib]ias1 desc5d+ into a furnace1 ?\gh :5 once on ! %ore ! breeze 0 sweet (f ! wat]4 ,tib]ias is a dreadful little t[n1 & we 7 glad to ?read its alleys z quickly z possible4 ,our camp 0 on a pebbly /r& ab\t half a mile s\? ( ?is1 ! only1 t[n on ^! %ores t once held su* brilliant cities4 ,i made an ev5+ sket*1 & be=e retir+ = ! night we /roll$ a long "t by ^? sacr$ wat]s 9 ! light ( ! full moon4 ,! waves 7 /rong1 & s\nd$ l\d 9 t great /illness4 ,at su* times z ?is ! s5se ( ,our ,"l's ,pres5ce is almo/ m ?an "o's mortal he>t c hold4 ,we pick$ up hundr$s ( %ells1 :i* w make appropriate ros>ies1 m\nt$ 9 silv]1 ! cross made out ( olive wood :i* ,i h br\ght f ,ge?semane4 ,i w s5d y "o4 ,?ursday1 #bcrd ,april4 ,we w5t by boat ?ree h\rs' r[ to ne> ! m\? ( ! ,jordan1 at ! nor? end ( ! lake1 :]e ! grassy slopes are suppos$ to ,illu/ration3 ,,our ,,fir/ ,,sight ,,( ,,lake ,,galilee ,! sn[y m\nta9 is ,m\nt ,h]mon4 ,nor!rn edge ( ! lake %[n4 ,tall f5nel plants among/ rocks 9 =egr\nd4 ,e>ly aft]noon4 be ! sc5e ( ! miracle ( ! ,loaves & ,fi%es4 ,x is v difficult to describe to y my en*antm5t at see+ "o aft] ano!r ^! places ,i h long$ to see f e>ly *ildhood1 :5 our belov$ fa!r us$ to read u ! ,bible e ,sunday4 ,! lake 0 pale & calm1 delicately t9t$1 & !re 0 a heat-haze ov] ev]y?+ 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! day4 ,we disemb>k$ "u "s ?orny acacias :i* gave a deep %ade1 & ,i _h ! delight ( mak+ a sket* !re ( ! coa/1 look+ we/w>d1 :il/ ,w4 w5t on by boat to ! ,jordan4 ,rosy ole&]s fr+e ! wat] z f> z ! eye c rea*2 ! ,m\nt ( ,beatitudes & top ( ,tabor are 9 ! di/ance1 & ! site ( ,cap]naum 9 ! middle di/ance4 ,god has trodd5 ^! sc5es ) human feet2 ! feel+ ( sket*+ !m is sc>cely to be put be=e y 9 words4 ,! boatm5 7 v angry at be+ kept1 :il/ ,i f9i%$ ! sket*1 f return+ at ! "r "t1 = !y told u t if ! we/ w9d sprang up we %\ld nev] be able to get home t night4 ,surely en\gh we 7 only able to get z f> z ,cap]naum ) h>d pull+ aga9/ a /rong we/ w9d1 :i* sudd5ly *ang$ ! :ole face ( ! lake4 ,its pale blue 0 n[ dirty gre5 & ! *oppy waves la%$ ) foam1 & s wild did ! waves become t ! progress ( ! boat 0 almo/ impossible4 ,^! sudd5 & viol5t gu/s t come ?r\gh ! gullies betwe5 ! m\nta9s are dread$ by ! fi%]m5 ( to-day z !y 7 9 ,pet]'s "t4 ,=tunately ,w4 _h 9 ! morn+ ord]$ t our horses %\ld be s5t r\nd to meet u "h 9 case ! w9d arose1 & we gladly got on !m at ?is po9t1 hav+ an en*ant+ ride back & be+ able at _m places to cant] our horses4 ,we he>d aft]w>ds t ! boatm5 did n get 9 till "o 9 ! morn+4 ,at ,cap]naum are se5 "s ri* ,roman ru9s ly+ tumbl$ ab\t z ?\gh by an e>?quake4 ,we rode ?r\gh ! suppos$ site ( ,be?saida1 & pass$ ?r\gh a portion ( ! old ,roman roadway = *>iots1 cut ?r\gh ! rock4 ,no accumulation ( e>? has buri$ ! orig9al surface z else:]e1 s t ?is lane1 ) its poli%$ floor ( rock1 mu/ h und\bt$ly be5 trodd5 by ,our ,"l z ,he pass$ f city to city4 ,"h are ! rema9s ,illu/ration3 ,,galilee1 ,,look+ ,,t[>ds ,,h]mon ,m\nt ,h]mon sn[-capp$ 9 di/ance4 ,t[n ( ,tib]ias on %ore 9 middle di/ance to left4 ( a ,roman aqu$uct1 9 "o place p\r+ a huge volume ( cle>e/ wat] ov] a l$ge :]e1 no d\bt1 9 ! city's "t1 a f\nta9 /ood4 ,n[ ! flood f ! nor!rn hills disp]ses itself 9 abundant /reams t ru% ?r\gh d5se h]bage to ! lake4 ,we c\nt$ six ( ^! little riv]s on our way to ,magdala1 ! bir?place ( ! ,magdal54 ,we look$ d[n f our m\nta9 lanes to ! milk-:ite /r&s ( ! little inlets t bord] ! nor!rn end ( ,g5nes>et1 & ,i wond]$ at :i* ( !m ! v>i\s episodes ( ! ,gospel took place--,our ,"l prea*+ f ! %ip pu%$ out a little way to be free f ! jo/l+ cr[d on %ore--! emb>kation = ! miracul\s draught ( fi%es----4 ,besides ole&]s ! pomegranates gr[ all along ?is %ore 9 d5se masses half emb$d$ 9 teem+ vegetation4 ,magdala is a t9y mud hamlet ) a s+le palm4 ,!re are spl5did fig-trees "h4 ,h]ds ( ox5 & goats & flocks ( %eep br[se knee-deep 9 ! ri* grass4 ,our dragoman took u ?is "t ?r\gh ! :ole l5g? ( ! t[n ( ,tib]ias4 ,x happ5$ to be a great ,jewi% fe/ival1 & ! m5 _h all fre%ly oil$ & curl$ _! side locks1 :i* dangl$ f "u imm5se r\nd fur caps1 & ! wom5 wore artificial fl[]s 9 _! hair & 7 clo!d 9 velvets ( spl5did hue4 ,x 0 /range to see !m ?us attir$1 com+ ^u !m s sudd5ly :5 ent]+ ! t[n f ! wild]ness4 ,! lanes 7 /ifl+ & un:olesome1 ! *ildr5 pale & sickly1 & all _h t same blight$ look ,i notic$ at ,j]usalem4 ,none ( !m 7 tann$1 b rema9$ :ite "u su* a sun6 ,x 0 a relief to come out at ! o!r end & cant] back along ! m>g9 ( ! ,sea to our camp1 = t ride ?r\gh ,tib]ias _h oppress$ & sadd5$ me4 ,friday1 #bd? ,april4 ,an e>ly />t z ! sun rose ov] ^? d>k cliffs ( ! c\ntry ( ! ,gad>5es d[n :i* ! possess$ sw9e c>e]$ to ! abyss4 ,good-bye1 bless$ ,sea ( ,galilee6 ,we _h our la/ look f ! imm5se height ne> ! ,m\nt ( ,beatitudes1 & !nce we turn$ s\?-we/ on our way to ,naz>e? ov] ! hills ( ,zebulon4 ,"y %eph]ds 7 pip+ on little fifes on ! hills4 ,! c\ntry became un9t]e/+ ,illu/ration3 ,,galilee1 ,,look+ ,,f ,,ne> ,,! ,,m\? ,,( ,,! ,,jordan ,,t[>ds ,,! ,,m\nt ,,( ,,beatitudes ,,& ,,tabor ,,ole&]s 9 fl[] skirt+ %ore 9 =egr\nd4 ,top ( ,m\nt ,tabor %[+ ov] ne>] m\nta9s 9 di/ance4 7comp>atively67 aft] we left ! imm$iate surr\nd+s ( ! lake till we came to ,cana ( ,galilee1 :]e we halt$1 & :]e ,i made my only failure sket*4 ,x 0 a de>1 holy1 lovable l&scape1 b hillocky & gre5 & impossible 9 t flat noontide light4 ,at ,cana is ! f\nta9 f :i* und\bt$ly 0 drawn ! wat] = ! m>riage fea/1 s9ce !re is absolutely no o!r spr+ 9 ! place4 ,x 0 a long j\rney to ,naz>e?4 ,t holy t[n is v lovely1 & s mu* sup]ior 9 its build+s to ! o!rs--q well-to-d & exquisitely situat$ on ! slope ( a cypress-topp$ hill1 9 t]races1 l a t9y ,g5oa4 ,"h culm9at$ my disappo9tm5t 9 ! faces ( ! wom5 ( ,pale/9e1 = ! tattoo+ is simply outrage\s1 worse ?an any:]e else 9 ! ,ea/4 ,h[ c !y be beautiful ) blue lips & ! m\? surr\nd$ ) blue trees1 animals & birds8 ,?is spoilt my pleasure 9 com+ ^u ! ,f\nta9 ( ! ,virg91 :]e ^! maids & matrons 7 fill+ _! pit*]s amid a great *att]+1 at ! entrance to ! t[n4 ,we walk$1 aft] arriv+1 to ! ,*ur* ( ! ,annunciation4 ,!re1 9 ! ,holy ,h\se 7! front ( :i* is at ,loretto71 f> bel[ ! pres5t surface ( ! e>?1 on ! v spot :]e ! angel salut$ ,m>y1 "o c say ! ,angelus4 ,?is is ! portion ( ! h\se :i* 7z is ! cu/om "h7 is excavat$ out ( ! rock2 ! fronts only are ( masonry4 ,we visit$ ! ,m5sa ,*ri/i1 :i* int]e/$ u b little1 z x sav\rs too mu* ( ! pi\s fraud1 & !n ! site ( ,joseph's work%op4 ,we 7 disappo9t$ 9 ! position ( our camp1 z o!r travell]s _h =e/all$ u 9 gett+ bett] places1 & ! be/ ( all 0 bespok5 = ! great ,fr5* pilgrimage expect$ on ! morr[4 ,on ?is acc\nt we settl$ n to t>ry at ,naz>e? & to s5d ! heavy column back to ,j]usalem 9 ! morn+4 ,we are only "o day's j\rney f ,cafa1 our place ( emb>kation4 ,z ,i 0 look+ at ! t[n f our t5t door at ! "t ( ! ,angelus1 ! bells ( ! ,*ur* ov] ,m>y's h\se sudd5ly rang out a c>illon1 & ! tune 0 t v "o we us$ to he> :5 ,a4 & ,i 7 five & six ye>s old on our de> ,g5oese ,rivi]a6 ,i _h n he>d t tune s9ce ^? days4 ,lat] on ,i wat*$ ! full ,illu/ration3 ,,naz>e? ,,at ,,sunrise ,,! *ur* ) spire to ! left /&s ov] ! site ( ,joseph's work%op1 & ne> ,m>y's h\se4 moon ris+ ov] ^? m\nta9 outl9es :i* ,our ,"l look$ on e day ( ,8 hidd5 life at ,naz>e?1 & !n turn$ & saw ! t[n :ite 9 ! moonbeams on its d>k hillside4 ,saturday1 #be? ,april4 ,we />t$ lat] ?an usual1 z ,w4 _h to close acc\nts ) ! heavy column & s5d a telegram to ,alex&ria to w>n !m ( our imp5d+ return4 ,!re 0 a heavy dew4 ,i made a sunrise sket* ( ! t[n4 ,a glori\s ride we _h to ,c>mel1 /eep$ 9 ! poetry ( ! ,old ,te/am5t4 ,c>mel is "o mass ( oak-trees4 ,!re we met ! va/ ho/ ( ! ,fr5* pilgrims com+ f ,cafa & beg9n+ _! exp]i5ces ( ,pale/9e4 ,we met amicably at ! %ady halt+-place & ex*ang$ a few words ( cam>ad]ie1 & we wat*$ !m dep>t t[>ds ,naz>e?1 ea* company head$ by a bann]4 ,on our way to ,cafa we cross$ ! ,ki%on aga91 n[ ne> its m\?1 fl[+ ?r\gh a lovely pla91 bord]$1 ne> ! s&hills t skirt ! sea1 ) date-palms4 ,ov] ! hills to our "r t[]$ ,lebanon aga9/ ! blue4 ,z we came 9 sight ( ! bay ! t[n ( ,/4 ,jean d',acre look$ beautiful on ! opposite side1 & ,cafa appe>$ a bright little t[n at ! foot ( ,c>mel4 ,!re we put up at ! ,g]man inn1 & ,i p>t$ ) my de> little horse ,%iloh1 & ,w4 ) 8 nimble ,ki%on1 our good little /e$s t br\ght u s well ?r\gh ! ,holy ,l&4 ,sunday1 #bf? ,april4 ,a great re/ & mu* lett]-writ+4 ,! congregation at ,mass 0 l>ge1 = !re is a consid]able ,*ri/ian colony "h4 ,we %all make ?is our headqu>t]s till ,friday1 :5 we mu/ leave = ,egypt4 ,,ca,,fa1 ,monday1 #bg? ,april #ahi-4 ,my4444--,we _h a v enjoyable exp$ition to ,acre1 driv+ ! :ole way !re & back 9 ! sea4 ,:]e ! waves break ! s& is h>d1 :]eas high] up ! bea* no :eel$ vehicle c\ld get ?r\gh 9 ! s(t s&4 ,we 7 (t5 cov]$ ) spray1 & ! lean horses spla%$ along knee-deep 9 ! surf4 ,at ! f]ry across ! ,ki%on1 :]e x fl[s into ! sea1 our horses 7 unh>ness$ & swam alongside our punt1 toge!r ) a /r+ ( camels t look$ v comical swimm+4 ,! %iv]+ horses 7 reh>ness$ on ! f>!r %ore1 & away we w5t te>+ ?r\gh ! waves4 ,! poor bea/s seem$ to enjoy _! oats at ! end1 if enjoym5t is possible to su* wret*$1 ill-treat$ creatures4 ,i made a sket* z well z ,i c\ld ) ! sun 9 my eyes f our %&rydan1 ab\t a qu>t] ( a mile outside ! "o gate ( ,acre1 on ! :ite s&y /r&1 :il/ ,w4 w5t explor+ all ov] ! t[n4 ,! milit>y au?orities mole/$ u n at all1 & ! comm&ant only ask$ ,w4 = back%ee%1 al?\gh ,i 0 conspicu\sly sket*+ ! =tifications & ,w4 0 scann+ ev]y?+ 9 a place s saturat$ ) ,napoleonic rem9isc5ces4 ,! same amphibi\s drive 9 ! gloam+ back to ,cafa4 ,tuesday1 #bh? ,april #ahi-4 ,to-day we drove to remote ,a?lit1 a long way d[n ! coa/ to ! s\?1 & sp5t quiet h\rs amid ! ,go?ic ,crusad] ru9s on ! wave-la%$ rocks beyond ,c>mel4 ,acre & ,a?lit /eep "o's m9d 9 ,crusad] s5tim5t1 :i* feels almo/ mod]n aft] s long a soj\rn 9 ! regions ( ! ,bible4 ,! maje/ic fragm5ts ( ,nor!rn ,go?ic we saw to-day seem /range to ! eye 9 ?is ,ori5tal l&1 b to ! intellect !y are full ( t\*+ mean+1 = ?is 0 ! po9t ( dep>ture = mo/ ( ! ,crusad]s4 ,baffl$1 hagg>d1 he>t-brok51 !y took %ip aga9 f "h4 ,w$nesday we sp5t 9 visit+ ! ,c>melite ,mona/]y1 a p]fect place to /ay at in/ead ( ! r dubi\s ,g]man inn4 ,x is a =tress-l build+ comm&+ a sweep+ view ( ! sea1 s\? & we/ & nor?1 & ( ! gr& l&scape ea/w>d & s\? aga94 ,! :itewa%$ rooms are fill$ ) ! reflection f ! light (f ! wat] & ! l&4 ,! ,abbot & monks1 9 ! well-kn[n :ite cloak & br[n habit1 are1 z ev]y:]e1 k9dly & hospitable1 & glad to see y4 ,:at a place = /udy & = pa9t+2 :at a place = a ,retreat1 :]e ev]y?+ rem9ds y ( ,religion & n "o s+le mundane1 worry+1 or ugly object comes )9 y\r k56 ,by ugly ,i always mean "s mod]n eyesore2 x is n a ^w applicable to ! poor & ! diseas$ :o humbly m\nt ! /eep pa? = ! daily alms & food ! mona/]y has ready = !m4 ,illu/ration3 ,,/4 ,,jean ,d',,acre ,,! road/ead is se5 to ! left4 ,a s&y %ore4 ,city surr\nd$ by walls & =tifications4 ,some:]e among/ ?is s]ies ( oak-clad hills t =ms ,m\nt ,c>mel1 ,elijah built 8 alt> to ! ,true ,god1 :]eon ! burnt-(f]+ 0 consum$ by fire f heav5 9 sight ( ! prophets ( ,baal4 ,!n ! fire ( ! ,"l fell1 & consum$ ! holocau/1 & ! wood1 & ! /ones1 & ! du/1 & lick$ up ! wat] t 0 9 ! tr5*1 ,,iii ,k+s xviii4 #ch4 ,?is 0 ! sc5e ( t mighty episode :i* is "o ( ! mo/ sali5t & impressive 9 "o's memory ( ! ,old ,te/am5t1 & look6 d[n bel[ ru%es t same ,ki%on on ^: banks ,elijah1 aft] ! great drama on ! m\nta91 slew ! prophets ( ,baal 9 sight ( all ! *ildr5 ( ,israel4 ,a ?rill runs ?r\gh "o :5 recall+ su* sc5es z "o /&s on ! v spot :]e !y took place4 ,aft] see+ specim5s ( ! anci5t tombs 9 ?is c\ntry "o c fully und]/& ! words ( ,/4 ,luke & ,/4 ,john allud+ to ! new sepul*re ( ,joseph ( ,arima!a :]e9 no man _h yet be5 laid4 ,^! tombs conta9 triple receptacles = ! dead1 z ,i %[$ y 9 ! sket* plan at ,j]usalem1 & "s ,i believe h m ?an ?ree4 ,_h ! sepul*re at ! foot ( ,calv>y conta9$ b "o1 ! words ( ! ,evangeli/s w\ld be puzzl+4 ,?is is an in/ance ( ! illum9ation t dispels c]ta9 obscurities 9 "o's m9d z "o j\rneys across ! !atre ( ,bible hi/ory4 ,x seems a /range p>adox1 b x is a v weighty fact1 t ! possession ( ! ,holy ,l& by ! cons]vative ,turk pres]ves all su* tok5s ( ! pa/ = ! elucidation ( ! ,*ri/ian's ,bible4 ,7 ?is l& 9 possession ( a ,*ri/ian ,p[]1 ,i fe> t ! s]vice ( ,mammon w\ld soon necessitate ! oblit]ation ( ^! tok5s s preci\s to our ,fai?4 ,railways1 factories1 m9es & new t[ns run by gre$y syndicates1 w\ld v soon make an end ( !m all4 ,!re 0 a ,*ri/ian proposal a little :ile ago1 ,i believe1 to flood ! :ole ( ,pale/9e = comm]cial purposes4 ,my ideal w\ld be 7oh1 va9 dream67 t "s great conf$]ation ( e>ne/ p ^: ,god is n ! ,doll>1 belong+ to ! v>i\s ,european ,p[]s & ,am]ica1 %\ld pur*ase ! little ,holy ,l& z a possession = ev] = ,*ri/5dom--real ,*ri/5dom4 ,to-day1 ,?ursday1 we saw ! ,s*ool ( ! ,prophets1 a curi\s & awesome cav]n 9 ! side ( ! m\nta94 ,^! h be5 quiet days1 :]e9 ,i h be5 able to write mu* & assimilate ! ev5ts ( our glori\s j\rney4 ,look+ back along ^! days ( travel1 _m flitt+ ?\ghts t came & w5t z we j\rney$ on1 return to "o's m9d 9 ! /illness ( repose4 ,"o ( ! facts t h /ruck u mo/ 9 ?is anci5t l& :i* is yet s fre%--s fre% 9 its surprises & 9 its /irr+s ( ! he>t--is ! fact t no book ( human au?or%ip deal+ ) ! subject is readable on ! spot4 ,y may take ) y ,dean ,/anley1 ,dr4 ,?omson 7,! ,l& & ! ,book71 ,miss ,m>t9eau1 or any ( ! delightful works on ,pale/9e t h fasc9at$ y 9 times gone by3 y w op5 !m once b n aga94 ,! ,bible is ! only book y c read "h6 ,all ! o!rs are inadequate3 no man c measure himself ) ! ,inf9ite4 7,su* books z ,pre ,didon's sublime ,jsus ,*ri/ or ,fa!r ,gallwey's ,wat*es ( ! ,passion ,i d n consid] z be+ ( human au?or%ip1 because !y are illu/rative accompanim5ts ( ! ,scriptures47 ,! feel+ ,i h :5 on ! po9t ( leav+ ! ,holy ,l& is "o difficult to describe wor?ily4 ,we seem to h be5 all[$ a glimpse into ! o!r _w ?r\gh ?is sacr$ portal4 ,to h /ood on ! summit ( ,olivet :5ce ,our ,r$eem] asc5d$ into heav5 9 ! =m ,he reigns 9 n[ at ! "r h& ( ! ,fa!r1 is z ?\gh "o _h t\*$ heav5 itself4 ,& !n ! =ce ) :i* "o realises c]ta9 episodes ( ,8 reveal$ life on e>? makes "o see ! ,inc>nation s vividly t ! human m9d b5ds b5ea? ! might ( ! revelation4 ,:5 ,i saw our boatm5 ! o!r day on ,galilee pull+ ) all _! might1 b 9 va91 aga9/ ! sudd5 we/ w9d1 s peculi> to t p>ticul> lake1 ,i saw be=e me ! fi%]m5 ( ,pet]'s type1 dress$ 9 ! same loose g>m5ts1 go+ ?r\gh ! same dang]\s "w t he & 8 fell[s _h to face habitually4 ,h[ easy x 01 ) t liv+ illu/ration be=e me1 to see ! /ruggl+ boat's crew on ! night t ,jesus1 rema9+ to pray alone on ! m\nta9 on ! ea/]n %ore1 s5t !m =w>d to ,cap]naum )\t ,him1 & h[ easy to see !m try+ to make _! way z describ$ 9 ,mat!w xiv4 #bd4 ,b ! boat 9 ! mid/ ( ! sea 0 toss$ ) ! waves3 = ! w9d 0 contr>y4 ,& !n ! div9e ,figure foll[+ !m1 mov+ ov] ^? toss+ waves1 c be imag9$1 approa*+1 full ( calm reassurance1 to /ill _! fe>s at ,8 app>ition--,x is ,i1 be n afraid4 ,! direction 9 :i* ! boat 0 /e]$1 ! m\nta9 :5ce ! div9e ,figure came =w>d & ov]took ! boat--all n[ appe>s to ! m9d's eye 9 p[]ful vividness1 9 ! sett+ ( l& & wat] t "o has se54 ,aga91 ! poor demoniacs t liv$ 9 ! tombs t are cut out ( ! sides ( ^? same m\nta9s ov] aga9/ ,galilee 7!re are outca/ maniacs l !m to-day 9 ! des]ts1 if n possess$ z ^! m5 771--,i fancy ,i c see ! look ( ! wild animal 9 _! faces z !y met our ,"l1 & he> ! quick1 wild cry ( "o ( !m3 ,:at h ,i to d ) !e1 ,jesus1 ,son ( ! mo/ high ,god8--& ! ho>se answ] to ,*ri/'s "q1 ,my "n is ,legion6 ,i h be=e me ! recollection ( a /range creature ,i saw runn+ out ( a sepul*ral *amb] 9 a ru9$ temple on ! ,upp] ,nile1 l ! inc>nation ( ,satan 9 "s ( ! ,old ,ma/]s' pictures3 ! head bald1 & ( ! same c9d]-col\r$ hue z ! evil face1 ) its l>ge po9t$ e>s1 & ! muscul> body4 ,i d n mean t ! possess$ man ( ! ,gospel might h be5 l ?is dwell] 9 tombs1 b "o sees /range be+s 9 ! des]ts ^: %elt]s are ! re/+-places ( ! dead4 ,i cont9ue to be haunt$ by ! feel+ t ! sight ( ! ,holy ,places is too easily & too unc]emoni\sly obta9$ n[adays4 ,i hope we d n feel less dev\tly ) reg>d to !m ?an 9 ! ,ages ( ,fai?1 & t x is only our mod]n way to take ^! ?+s z we d4 ,d y rememb] h[ hi/ory tells u t ,ri*>d ,coeur de ,lion1 aft] 8 defeat by ! ,s>ac5s "s di/ance %ort ( ,j]usalem1 fall+ back t[>ds ! coa/1 baffl$ 9 8 h]oic ef=ts to r$eem ! ,holy ,sepul*re f ! ,infidel1 refus$ to look on ! city :i* came 9 sight 9 ! re> ( 8 l9e ( m>* z he & 8 knights cre/$ a high hill ne> ,emmaus8 ,he w\ld n look2 he _h fail$2 8 eyes 7 too unwor?y to re/ ^u ! ,city ( ! ,"l4 ,& to-day1 ) ! ,infidel /ill 9 possession1 ! ,*ri/ian t\ri/1 no?+ d\bt+1 takes a good look ?r\gh 8 b9ocul> on sight+ ! same ,j]usalem4 ,i rememb] he>+ t z "s fri5ds ( ours1 =m+ "p ( a mix$ company1 ,illu/ration3 ,,ru9s ,,( ,,! ,,crusad]s' ,,banquet+ ,,hall1 ,,a?leet ,! spr+s ( ! ,go?ic ar*es c be trac$ on ! high brick wall4 ,! hills to ! "r =m ! l[] we/]n slopes ( ,m\nt ,c>mel1 cov]$ ) oak woods4 came 9 sight ( ! city1 "o ( _! numb] dropp$ on 8 knees 9 z unobtrusive a mann] z 0 possible "u ! circum/ances4 ,i did n "k y\r bro!r 0 a fanatic1 :isp]$ an ,am]ican to 8 si/]4 ,z reg>ds c]ta9 details ( life 9 ?is c\ntry t s mu* emb>rass & disappo9t "s travell]s1 d n imag9e t ,i affect$ly ignore _! exi/5ce2 b ,i d feel grateful t 9 my view ( ! :ole sc5e !y h ev]y:]e kept _! prop] place4 ,i "k h[ disappo9t$ "s p are on _! acc\nt1 & ,i %\ld be sorry if ,i 0 ?\ght intol]ant 9 my self-satisfaction at be+ s =tunate4 ,"o lady1 9 a little book ,i once read1 describ+ h] j\rney1 takes = h] text3 ,he is n "h1 b is ris54 ,9 bitt] *agr9 %e ackn[l$ges ! fact t n[h]e 9 ,j]usalem c\ld %e see ,our ,"l ?r\gh h] surr\nd+s4 ,i ask$ a fri5d once if %e w\ld l to see ! ,holy ,l&3 ,c]ta9ly n6 %e exclaim$2 ,i h read ,m>k ,twa9's book4 ,i inquir$ ( an ,engli% travell] at ,jaffa ! o!r day1 :o 0 on 8 way home1 h[ ! ,holy ,places _h impress$ him4 ,8 answ]s 7 dispirit$3 ! dirt1 ! flies1 etc41 etc41 _h annoy$ him4 ,8 e>s 7 /ill r++ ) ! ubiquit\s ,bak%ee%62 ! lep]s _h spoilt "s ( ! be/ views--& s on4 ,h[ mu* bett] x w\ld h be5 = him n to come "h1 l ! ,m>k ,twa9 lady1 & to h pres]v$ 8 ,ox=d impressions ( ! ,bible uncontam9at$6 ,9 ,our ,"l's "t1 al?\gh ! cities 7 spl5did1 ! poor & ! diseas$ 7 j z mu* en vid5ce z n[1 & :]e ,he 0 ,8 poor clu/]$ ?icke/4 ,yet :o ?9ks ( ! m]ely squalid details ( ^? cr[ds :5 read+ ! ,gospel n>rative8 ,:y1 !n1 dwell on !m s mu* "h to-day z we foll[ ,8 foot/eps on ! v soil ,he trod8 ,i mu/ say any dang] ( di/ractions ,i may h felt has n come f :at ,i h se5 ( ! native elem5t "h4 ,n long ago a p>ty ( ,*ri/ian 787 ,european tripp]s 7,i w n def9e _! nationality7 rea*+ ! ,jews' ,wail+ ,place at ,j]usalem1 *>g$ ) _! donkeys all along ! l9e ( ^? preoccupi$ figures /&+ pray+ ) _! faces buri$ 9 _! ,te/am5ts or press$ aga9/ ! /ones ( ! great wall1 & knock$ !m ov]4 ,b ,_m m5 _m m9ds1 & z no c\ntry /irs ! s9c]e he>t z ?is "o does1 "o mu/ accept ea* ?\ghtful travell]'s acc\nt ( 8 exp]i5ces z be+ g5u9ely felt4 ,i w\ld w>n int5d+ t\ri/s :o are e>ne/ & s5sitive ab\t ?is sacr$ l& aga9/ =m+ l>ge p>ties = ! j\rney4 ,among/ ! gr\p ( fell[-travell]s !re is sure to be at lea/ "o discordant unit4 ,faceti\s rem>ks1 ignorant que/ions1 ?\ghtless exclamations1 are h>d] to be> "h ?an else:]e4 ,( c\rse1 if ! p>ty =ms a religi\s pilgrimage ^! w>n+s d n apply2 b ev5 a pilgrimage 9 company has drawbacks1 if ! "t is limit$1 & _m inevitable di/ractions4 ,select z few companions z is practicable--"o only1 if possible1 entirely "o ) y 9 fai? & feel+4 ,also1 any "o 9 delicate heal? %\ld n attempt ! entire j\rney4 ,i h se5 m ?an "o sad procession ( return+ t\ri/s escort+ a litt] conta9+ "s poor collaps$ lady1 dep5d+ on ! =e-&-aft mules t c>ri$ h] = a smoo? transit back to ,j]usalem & ! c>riage road4 ,woe betide h] if ei!r ( ! bea/s came d[n or ev5 /umbl$6 ,:5 ,i wrote to y f ,j]usalem ,i told y h[ conv9c+ "o feels ! traditional sites ( ,calv>y & ! ,holy ,sepul*re to be 9 spite ( mod]n scepticism4 ,b m mod]n /ill is ! v]ification ( _! au!nticity4 ,x has lately be5 prov$1 by t rese>* :i* we seem to require n[adays1 t !y /& outside ! l9e ( ! city walls ( our ,"l's "t4 ,! great /umbl+-block to ^? :o c\ld n accept ! ^w ( ,tradition consi/$ 9 ! idea t ^? sites _h always be5 )9 ! city z n[1 = x is kn[n t ! ,jewi% law =bade places ( execution & ( burial )9 ! walls4 ,to %[ y h[ ! %ape ( ,j]usalem1 m>k$ out by its =tifications1 has *ang$ dur+ its long hi/ory1 ,i may m5tion t1 :]eas ! h\se ( ! ,la/ ,supp] /ood )9 ! l9es 9 ,our ,"l's "t1 x /&s f> outside ! walls ( to-day4 99 99 99 99 99 ,& n[ ! la/ sunset we %all see f ! ,l& ( ,promise is /eep+ ,lebanon 9 rose & violet1 & ! sl5d] %ad[s ( ! palms are l5g!n+ across ! s&y spaces ( ! pla94 ,! sea has n a sail ^u x1 & ! sky n ev5 a cl\d ! size ( a man's h&1 su* z ,elijah's s]vant saw f ! top ( ?is ,c>mel :i* ov]%ad[s u4 ,undi/urb$ by w9d or cl\d1 ! m9d c dwell ^u ?\ghts :i* ! approa*+ h\r ( leave-tak+ r5d]s m poignant4 99 99 99 99 99 ,! aft]gl[ is n[ k9dl+ its fires1 & transfigur+ a sc5e "o _h ?\ght c\ld n be r5d]$ m beautiful4 ,( all ! spl5d\rs ( ,nature ! aft]gl[ is ! mo/ surpris+4 ,i ?9k 9 ! ,ea/ x comes m swiftly aft] sunset ?an 9 ,italy1 & x is m a/oni%+ 9 its display ( light4 ,i h (t51 9 ,egypt1 tri$ to pa9t x1 b x is no easy matt]1 =1 al?\gh ! light seems s p[]ful x is really too l[ to all[ "o to see "o's "w4 ,! sky becomes a l[-ton$ grey-gre5-blue 444 :at %all ,i call x8--a tone ( ! greate/ subtlety1 aga9/ :i* ! illum9at$ objects on ! e>? %9e ) ! col\rs ( flame r ?an ( ! sun4 ,!re foll[s ?is la/ ef=t ( ! dy+ day :at ,i may call ! la/ sigh1--a few mom5ts ( delicate greys ( inf9ite t5d]ness1 & !n night1--absolute night4 ,!y are r++ ! ,angelus up at ! ,c>melite ,mona/]y on ! wood$ heights4 ,^? monks live a lonely life on ! m\nta9 :5ce _! ,ord] takes its "n4 ,! au?or ( ,! ,l& & ! ,book speaks ( ?is lonely mona/]y ) its monks *ant+ ,lat9 to nobody4 ,only to ! great ,god ,:o *ose ?is little c\ntry :]e9 to te/ify ,8 love = man2 ,:o has trodd5 ) we>y feet ^? hills we h trav]s$ 9 ! j\rney t ends to-day6 ,friday1 #a/ ,may4 ,at #a4cj ?is morn+ we left ^! bless$ %ores1 deeply grateful = ! privilege ( tread+ ! soil ( ,pale/9e :i* _h be5 accord$ u4 ,we put (f 9 boats = ! ,au/rian ,lloyd /eam] ly+ 9 ! (f+ by ! light ( a wan+ moon4 ,by #h ,a4,m4 we an*or$ (f ,jaffa1 :]e we lay all day1 & at sunset /ood out to sea1 soon los+ sight ( ! ,holy ,l& 9 ! %ades ( night4 ,! lett]press has be5 pr9t$ by ,messrs4 ,r4 ,r4 ,cl>k1 ,limit$1 ,ed9burgh4