,,the ,,playwork ,,book                 
,,the                                   
,,playwork ,,book                       
,,by                              ,,ann 
,,macbeth                               
,,with #aad ,,diagrams                  
,illustration                           
,,new ,,york                            
,,robert ,m4 ,,mcbride  ,,company       
#aiah                       ,printed in 
the ,united ,states of ,america         
,published ,october1 #aiah              
,,contents                              
,,page      ,,introduction              
#a      ,a ,,woolen ,,ball              
#be      ,,another ,,woolen ,,ball      
#bg      ,a ,,sprig ,,of ,,flowers      
#cj      ,a ,,skipping ,,rope           
#cc      ,a ,,sucker                    
#cg      ,,golliwogs                    
#ch      ,,the ,,meal ,,sack            
#dj      ,,an ,,emery ,,cushion         
#db      ,,rat-,,tail ,,knitting        
#dd      ,a ,,peep-,,show ,,picture     
#df      ,,cup ,,and ,,ball             

#dh      ,,storks                       
#ej      ,a ,,cork ,,doll               
#eb      ,a ,,rabbit                    
#eb      ,a ,,cork ,,horse              
#ed      ,,an ,,engine ,,and ,,tender   
#ee      ,a ,,chest ,,of ,,drawers      
#ef      ,a ,,cradle                    
#eg      ,a ,,doll',s ,,table           
#eh      ,a ,,doll',s ,,bed             
#eh      ,a ,,doll',s ,,chair           
#ei      ,,another ,,doll',s ,,chair    
#fj      ,,necklaces                    
#fa      ,a ,,hat ,,band                
#fd      ,a ,,fan                       
#fe      ,a ,,pin-,,wheel ,,or          
,,whirligig                 #fe      ,a 
,,tin ,,wheel ,,or ,,buzzer             
#fg      ,a ,,wooden ,,mill             
#fh      ,a ,,feather ,,wheel           
#gj      ,,an ,,air ,,propeller         
#gb      ,a ,,reversing ,,propeller     
#gc      ,a ,,waterwheel ,,and ,,shute  
#gd      ,a ,,pop-,,gun                 
#gf      ,a ,,whistle                   
#gh      ,a ,,long ,,whistle            

#gi      ,a ,,squeaker                  
#hj      ,a ,,buzzer                    
#hj      ,a ,,clapper                   
#ha      ,a ,,telephone                 
#hb      ,a ,,drum                      
#hc      ,a ,,megaphone                 
#hd      ,,rush ,,furniture             
#he      ,,rush ,,whip                  
#hf      ,,rush ,,rattle                
#hg      ,,paper ,,beads                
#hh      ,,fish ,,bone ,,tea-,,set      
#hi      ,a ,,rush ,,or ,,raffia ,,bag  
#ij      ,,the ,,harvest ,,plait        
#ia      ,,doll',s ,,furniture          
#ib      ,a ,,wheelbarrow               
#id      ,a ,,fern ,,basket             
#ie      ,a ,,doll',s ,,stool           
#if      ,a ,,doll',s ,,stool ,,of      
,,feathers               #ig      ,a    
,,porter',s ,,hand ,,barrow             
#ih      ,a ,,crane                     
#ii      ,a ,,top                       
#aja      ,a ,,teetotum                 
#ajb      ,,bow ,,and ,,arrow           
#ajc      ,a ,,dart                     

#aje      ,a ,,crossbow                 
#ajf      ,a ,,catapult                 
#ajh      ,a ,,target                   
#aji      ,a ,,raft                     
#aaj      ,a ,,canoe                    
#aaa      ,a ,,ship                     
#aad      ,a ,,propeller                
#aah      ,a ,,doll                     
#aai      ,a ,,brownie                  
#abb      ,,kites                       
#abd      ,a ,,monkey ,,on ,a ,,stick   
#aca      ,a ,,dancing ,,lady           
#acd      ,a ,,model ,,aeroplane        
#acf      ,a ,,farmyard                 
#ach      ,a ,,doll',s ,,house          
#adj          ,,the ,,playwork ,,book   
,far enough below the surface1 in every 
one of us there lives1 very  often      
almost forgotten1 the child1 who1 like  
,peter ,pan1 never  grows up4 ,it is    
this everlasting child in us that keeps 
the keys  which open for each his       
,kingdom of ,heaven1 and sad it is for  
those of us who have lost sight of the  
keeper of the keys4 ,the  sweetest and  

loveliest things in our lives are the   
simplest things4  ,they do not abide in 
the excitable enjoyment of luxuries and 
entertainments to be bought with money2 
they lie in the living and  eternal     
interest of the homeliest things of     
daily life1 wherever  people are simple1
 and sincere of heart1 and full of      
loving1 kindly  thought and care for the
 concerns of others2 where people do    
things  themselves instead of paying for
 them to be done2 where wealth  is      
counted in love1 in thoughtfulness1 and 
in interest in other  people1 and not in
 many possessions4 ,these things are the
 heritage  of all children1 and we are  
happy if we can carry our heritage with 
us through our life2 for this indeed is 
to be of the ,kingdom of  ,heaven4    ,a
 child who is unspoiled by the false and
 ignorant estimates of  others with     
regard to the rank and standing of those
 among whom  he lives1 is perhaps our   
truest socialist4 ,he comes into the    
world possessing nothing1 so far as he  

is aware1 save his own  identity2 he    
knows no distinction of class2 his ideas
 of rank are  based solely on the       
beauty1 charm1 and kindness which are in
 due  proportion the characters of those
 he lives with4 ,he makes his own       
little kingdom if he is encouraged to   
work it out1 or play it out1  for       
himself2 and happy is the child and     
happy is the parent of that  child who  
learns to play independently1 and to    
gather together  his kingdom1 without a 
continual cry for assistance from       
others4  ,here is one of the first great
 landmarks in education1 and a child    
who is unspoiled by too many possessions
 in the way of toys will  be one well   
provided1 for his mind should at once   
move to create  these possessions for   
himself4 ,this power to create1 this    
moving  of the spirit to make something 
out of chaos1 is in all healthy  human  
beings1 and it is the happiest faculty  
we have4 ,it is1 in  fact1 one of the   
most vital sides of religion in us1 and 

perhaps  the most important to us4 ,it  
brings us into direct kinship with  the 
,great ,creator of all things4 ,this    
moving of the ,holy ,spirit  over the   
chaos of the world1 in our businesses1  
in our workshops1  in our shipyards1 in 
our buildings1 in all craftsman's work  
in  our factories1 is probably never    
realized by the churchmen among  us1 and
 only vaguely apprehended by the        
educational authorities4  ,yet does not 
this very power of creative thought     
amongst even the  humblest of us        
constitute religion of the most living  
vitality8  ,this ,holy ,spirit moving1  
and living1 and creating anew in every  
trade and craft1 and in every place     
where men are busy1 should  be better   
realized by us1 and more respected2 we  
should then be  better men and women4   
,the inventive minds among us are indeed
 our  prophets1 answering to the call of
 those whose labor is too long  and     
heavy1 and producing what will lessen   
the burden4 ,answering  again the call  

for more light1 more beauty1 more music 
in the  world1 and producing our arts   
and our playgrounds1 our games1 our     
schools and colleges4 ,answering again  
the call for freedom from  pain1 and we 
have our hospitals1 and our great       
doctors1 and all who  work for the      
betterment of the world4 ,here is the   
real and living  church of ,god on      
earth4 ,they say we are leaving the     
churches behind  us4 ,say rather that   
the church is more with us1 and all are 
its  ministers who are working for the  
world's welfare4    ,we rebuke far too  
often that habit of children of asking  
questions4  ,we say1 ,be quiet1 and ,you
 will see some other day6 ,yet it is by 
questions that the child shows most his 
interest in life1 and his  inclinations 
and desires and tendencies4    ,we      
instruct a child for years in the       
writings1 doings1 sayings1  and         
contrivings of others who have gone     
before us4 ,how rarely  do we realize   
that in these little ones there may be  

as great1  or greater1 light within1    
only needing care and encouragement to  
develop and flame up1 and show its      
creative strength8 ,it is sad to  think 
how often these little lights are       
snuffed out in their first  flickerings 
by the thoughtless things we say1 by the
 foolish way  we tease them at the      
slightest sign of independent thought1  
by our  ignorant habit of commending and
 praising those who give up their       
independence1 and conform to the        
commonplace habits and customs we  have 
adopted as convenient4    ,many very    
young children show astonishingly       
developed faculties  in certain         
directions even before they can express 
themselves in  speech4 ,i know a little 
boy who1 in his second year1 showed such
  an interest in machinery that his     
elder relatives had to learn  the parts 
of a locomotive engine in order not to  
betray their own  ignorance2 and over   
and over again we see the faculties of  
the  creative mind so strong in young   

children that it is difficult to        
persuade ourselves that they have not   
some previous experience  to draw upon4 
,especially is this the case in music   
and the arts1  for here there is perhaps
 less dependence on tools and previous  
technical training required1 than in    
other constructive work4  ,but it is sad
 to see1 and very common also1 that     
these bright  beginnings too often      
flicker out1 not because the spirit is  
lacking1 but because these children are 
only too often driven to  hide their    
lights1 because they feel conspicuous1  
are teased1 and  rebuked1 and chidden   
for their non-conformity1 and are made  
to feel  themselves outcasts if they    
pursue the way their spirit tends to    
lead them2 and they lose their light1   
these finer little spirits1  and subside
 into the twilight of mediocre minds4   
,it is indeed difficult1 in these times 
of over-crowded schools and  over-worked
 teachers1 to foster and develop the    
personalities of  these little ones1 but

 we all look to a time when education   
may be  a stronger force among us1 more 
respected and more desired1 when  those 
who teach in our elementary schools may 
be the finest men  and women we have1   
those of the greatest hearts1 and the   
widest  understanding 7for into their   
hands we place the most precious  thing 
we have72 a time1 when1 realizing that  
the laborer is worthy  of his hire1 we  
must also be brought to realize that the
 hire must  be worthy of the laborer4   
,we become more and more socialistic in 
our community life in these  days1 and a
 child is now so little left to the     
charge of his mother  that his life1    
almost from babyhood upwards1 is just a 
passing on  from one trained hand to    
another till he is able to support      
himself  independently1 and often long  
after that4 ,his years of school  grow  
longer and busier1 and now even his     
playtime is to be more  closely guarded 
and supervised4 ,yet it is to be hoped  
that here the  guarding and supervising 

will be specially directed to preserving
  his independence and his choice of    
leisure occupation4    ,games are good  
for all1 yet playtime should            
emphatically not be  all games3 this is 
where our public schools have failed us2
 they  have given too much importance to
 games1 and almost none to private      
enterprise in constructive play4 ,in the
 little contrivances of  children lie   
the germs of vast mechanical and        
artistic enterprises4  ,the marvelous   
crafts passed on to us from ancient days
 in every  land were never the result of
 training in schools1 they partook  more
 of the qualities of what ,i would call 
constructive play1  passed on from      
parent to child1 each new thing a little
 different  from any other1 changing and
 varying in every age1 yet all through  
a pleasure and a joy to their makers4   
,our trades and our crafts  have all    
their beginnings in the immature        
constructions we make as  children4 ,we 
build houses1 we furnish them1 we make  

instruments of  music 7and un-music71 we
 make ships1 we fashion vessels of clay1
  and wood1 and metal2 we weave and we  
paint2 we dimly foresaw the  days when  
men should fly like birds1 and we made  
kites4 ,all this  went on for countless 
generations1 and then we laid captive   
the  steam and the electric current1 and
 lo6 a change2 all things are  possible4
 ,yet we have had a set back2 we have   
forgotten awhile  that the spirit in all
 of us is greater than the machine4 ,we 
have allowed our machines to make our   
toys1 and instead of being  toy-makers  
our children have to some extent become 
toy breakers1  not because they are     
really trying to destroy1 but because   
they  have the right and natural desire 
to see how a thing is made4 ,it  is not 
enough1 however1 to know this2 it is    
very essential that a  child should make
 for himself1 and the probability is    
that if the  thing is easily bought he  
will not take the trouble to make it4   
,he  will be inclined to take it for    

granted that just because it is a       
commercial article1 a thing to be bought
 in a shop1 he cannot  make it4 ,toys   
imported from abroad have been so       
plentiful and so  cheap of late years   
that the children of to-day rarely      
attempt  to make them for themselves1   
and they are immensely the poorer1      
intellectually speaking1 for the lack of
 this necessity to make  them4 ,it is   
for this reason that ,i have gathered   
together a small  collection of the     
contrivances of past generations1 and   
the present  generation too1 not in     
order that they serve as mere subjects  
for  copy1 but because in making such   
things children develop ideas for       
improving upon them1 and for making new 
things4    ,this little collection of   
works and enterprises is brought        
together  as a suggestion for what      
,scottish folk so aptly call ploys1     
which the children may undertake without
 much help or instruction4  ,later on it
 may be possible to collect a more      

mature series of  suggestions for       
recreative work in evening schools and  
continuation  classes4 ,there are people
 everywhere whose work during the day is
  so taxing that they cannot continue to
 strain mind and hand at the  usual     
subjects given in evening schools1 and  
yet they can learn  to employ their     
leisure time very profitably by work    
which does  not demand either mental    
strain1 nor highly developed skill1 nor 
any elaborate outfit1 nor noisy methods 
of construction4 ,it must  be truly     
leisure work1 and be planned to give    
refreshment and  stimulation and play to
 weary brain and body4    ,such gentle  
fireside crafts as the decoration of    
pottery1 and  coarse and effective      
needlework are delightful to practice of
  an evening1 and need give no trouble  
to the tidy and anxious  ,marthas of the
 household4 ,no evenings are more       
pleasant than those  ,i have spent with 
friends all busy at quiet crafts round  
the  hearth1 chatting a little1 or      

listening to a reader1 or singing       
simple songs in parts1 and with no      
accompaniment of instruments4           
,constructive design for either of these
 two crafts is a delightful  thing for  
either men or women of any age4 ,we are 
never too old to  learn to design       
patterns so long as our hands are able  
to guide a  pen4 ,for what is writing   
but pattern4 ,each of us writes his or  
her  name to an individual design1      
easily recognized so soon as our hand   
has learned to control our instrument4  
,patterns for these simple  crafts      
should therefore emanate from the minds 
of the workers  themselves1 and should  
never be copied if it is possible to    
avoid  it4    ,this spirit of           
creativeness and invention should find a
 special  period for its development in 
the day's time-table1 and it would  be  
immensely helpful and interesting if    
teachers would make  collections of     
outstanding productions from the        
children1 and if  little loan           

collections of these might travel round 
from place  to place4 ,the children     
themselves are always intensely         
interested  in seeing such things--and  
sometimes the older folk who have not   
forgotten to be children are even more  
so4 ,i have always urged that           
craft-work from our various educational 
centers should go on tour  in this way1 
and ,i keep a large quantity of         
needlework which shows  individuality1  
from all sorts of schools1 going round  
the country4  ,this usually is shown to 
teachers only1 which limits its sphere1 
for the children themselves show a most 
enthusiastic interest in  it1 and       
whenever ,i have shown such work to     
children in elementary  schools1 the    
chorus of excited little voices usually 
repeats1  ,oh1 ,i could do that1 which  
is exactly what is needed for a good    
beginning4 ,how charming it would be if 
municipalities would have in  every     
museum a section of modern craft work1  
independent of the  collections of      

antiquities we store up4 ,for we also   
have beautiful  things being created    
amongst us1 no less beautiful because   
they  result from the demands of modern 
needs and usages4    ,new habits of life
 produce new demands1 and children      
quickly catch  new ideas and adapt      
themselves to the use of hitherto       
unknown  materials4 ,this is especially 
the case in cities1 and the suggested   
constructions for the playwork subjects 
in this book are almost  all made out of
 the waste materials the children may   
readily find  at hand1 and they are put 
together as far as possible1 without    
any particular need for skill1 and with 
the fewest and simplest  of tools4 ,in  
the country there is always an immense  
wealth of  superfluous material to play 
with1 and the country child has a far   
greater treasury from which to supply   
the need of hand and mind  than his     
neighbor of the city4 ,imagination can  
find an immensity  of outlet and        
opportunity1 even in the neighborhood of

 cities4  ,i remember well my village of
 cave dwellings which ,i carefully      
hollowed out beneath the spreading roots
 of trees--very dirty  trees--in a      
suburban wood in a ,lancashire town4    
,the caves were  furnished with stones  
and twigs1 and populated with earwigs or
 any  creeping thing to be found and    
housed there4 ,later ,i owned an  island
 in a ,westmorland ,lake1 and had a     
beautiful house of woven  branches of   
the growing rowan trees1 with a garden  
planted with  ferns and wild flowers    
among mossy bordered paths4 ,and again1 
my  sisters and brothers and ,i made    
fine wigwams of the branches of  young  
oak and hazel trees found in those      
lakeland woods2 they were  tied together
 at the top with the fibrous stems of   
honeysuckle1  spread tentwise at the    
base1 and heaped outside with a covering
 of  dead bracken and dry leafy twigs4  
,in town too1 for wet days there  was   
always the house under the table1 walled
 in with table cover  and blankets3     

delightful dwellings all1 and happy     
little homes  to live in1 for any place 
is a home to us when we look back to  it
 with happy memory4 ,and the garlands we
 made of daisies and red  clover1 thick 
as a man's arm and plaited strongly     
together1 with  which we decked the     
clothes-props on the drying green1 and  
made  them into ,maypoles6 ,we remember 
the joy these things gave1 chiefly      
because we made them2 we remember them  
far better than the games  we played1 or
 the entertainments we went to4    ,at  
school again1 my best personal          
experience1 and one that ,i have  found 
valuable above all the other education  
,i got1 was not the  lessons ,i learned 
from books2 ,i have forgotten almost all
 ,i got  from them4 ,it was the great   
days when we had plays in school1 and   
,i was allowed to devise1 and           
practically direct the whole making  of 
the stage properties4 ,a great time     
that4 ,we made armor1 and  weapons1 and 
crowns1 and garments1 and wings1 and    

scenery4 ,we had  no assistance from    
teachers for this1 and ,i know it taught
 me more  than any of my teachers did4  
,during school days ,i did not learn to 
draw because ,i had a drawing lesson    
once a week1 and painfully and          
carefully drew perspectives of chairs   
and schoolrooms and other  dull things4 
,i learned to draw because ,i loved to  
scribble in my  lesson books princes and
 princesses1 and fairies1 and because ,i
 had  few playthings1 and was always    
making and decorating little gifts  for 
other people4    ,this practise of      
decorating the things we make is really 
far the  best way to teach drawing to   
either children or others4 ,we make our 
education in drawing a far too limited  
affair by directing it to  a pictorial  
issue alone1 and drawing is a far wider 
subject than  concerns picture-making   
solely4 ,if we go into our museums1 we  
see  from the ancient handicrafts left  
to us by primitive peoples1 that  in the
 beginning all art was purely applied to

 useful things4 ,the  clay jar modelled 
in the hands alone1 with its lines and  
curves  just emphasized with a few      
scratches or impressions made with a    
stick or a bone1 what is this but just  
play8 and yet it is art  also and the   
art adds immensely to the value of that 
jar4 ,so also  to-day1 if any child     
takes a piece of clay and makes a vessel
 by  hand1 the very same thing is       
produced4 ,i have seen little pots made 
in schools which it is difficult to     
distinguish from some of those  of      
ancient ,egypt or ,peru in our museums4 
,they are not one whit less  artistic1  
and yet the art is quite unconscious1   
the child was only  playing with the    
clay4    ,we would be much the richer1  
commercially speaking1 if schools  would
 only take up this different side of art
 teaching--making  patterns1 instead of 
pictures4 ,i am not condemning the      
drawing of  pictures1 but ,i am urging  
that pattern-making--constructive design
  in actual material1 not on            

paper--should come first4 ,pattern is   
the  mathematics of art1 and it can     
develop the mathematical faculties  far 
more widely than mere mental            
calculations can4 ,it must be  learned  
by wise gradations1 and the learner must
 never be allowed  to get out of hand or
 run riot with over-elaboration4 ,if we 
can  teach the children in their drawing
 lessons to decorate the useful         
articles they need for the home1 we     
shall give a great impetus to  the      
commercial arts4 ,for example1 if a     
child has one lesson at  decorating a   
piece of pottery with a brush dipped in 
glaze paint  and decorates it with      
nothing but a line of dots or strokes1  
he can  have this fired and fixed and   
use it1 and he also at once looks at    
every china shop with a sharply         
discriminating eye4 ,in a very short    
time he will be able to choose between  
good decoration and bad1 he  will       
understand economy in production1 he    
will very soon demand  from the trade a 

higher class of design1 and he will be  
willing to  pay for better design       
because he understands the working of   
it4    ,the fashion for amateurs to     
practice photography did not do harm to 
the professional photographer1 as was   
feared at first2 it raised  the standard
 of professional work1 and brought more 
custom1 and not  less1 to the           
professional worker4 ,and this holds    
good in all work1  the more widely and  
thoroughly it is understanded of the    
people1  the more desirable do the      
people find it4    ,there is a great    
education before art teachers1 and they 
must  realize that they must come into  
touch with science and mathematics  and 
general constructive work4 ,they must   
watch the changing needs  and fashions  
of the day1 and realize that not only in
 classic  times was the art of the      
people a beautiful and desirable thing4 
,they must realize1 too1 that in this   
,twentieth ,century our hands  are      
extending their powers1 and that by the 

use of machines  we are reaching a far  
larger public than unaided hands could  
do4 ,the artist has spent two or three  
generations bewailing the  machine2 he  
forgot that no machine can1 of its own  
powers1 be  artistic or inartistic4 ,he 
left the machine alone1 and therefore   
the machine-work has fallen into        
discredit4 ,the artist craftsman  is too
 often too conscious of his art1 and    
does not subordinate  himself           
sufficiently to modern ways and         
conditions4 ,it is not  the fault of the
 machine that much of our manufactured  
output is  inartistic1 it is the fault  
of the artist that he has not managed   
to control the machine4 ,first and      
foremost1 however1 we must have  some   
change in the training of artists1 and  
must direct their  attention to utility1
 rather than pictorial work4 ,it is     
difficult  to count the outlets possible
 to the decorative craftsman1 provided  
he understands modern machinery and     
commercial demands4 ,this  training in  

handicraft begins1 very rightly and     
naturally in the  kindergarten schools1 
but there1 unfortunately1 it stops      
short4  ,now what we want to do is to   
plan out for our growing children  such 
crafts as will develop intelligence and 
skill of hand1 without  demanding too   
great physical strength or technical    
training1 and  without undue expenditure
 of money upon materials and outfit4    
,for the younger children the easiest   
media to work in are clay and           
needlework4 ,the clay-work should be    
directed to the most permanent  and     
useful things that can be produced2     
pottery and tiles can be  very easily   
made1 and are very permanent if they are
 glazed and  fired and decorated1 and   
this can be done at very little expense4
  ,needlework must be taught so that the
 worker develops intelligence  and      
independence1 and is no longer made to  
sew the multitudes of  fine stitches    
which were once considered necessary1   
and which made  the girls mere          

unthinking machines4 ,there are endless 
new ways  to be followed out in the     
sewing and embroidery and construction  
of garments and household textiles4     
,even the rather mechanical  knitting is
 probably only in its infancy as yet1   
and we may see it  do great things1 and 
play a more beautiful part in our       
textile  arts4 ,to reform and renew the 
vitality of all these things we must    
realize that they have all their        
beginnings in the playwork of  the      
little child1 and that simply because   
the little child has no  traditions to  
unlearn1 and is therefore independent   
enough to think  out new devices in his 
play1 so must we all keep before us the 
fact  that we have that light within us 
which is above1 and independent  of1    
traditions4    ,if we can see any way in
 which any work can be improved or      
altered1  or beautified by some change  
in its treatment1 we must be bold to    
try it1 for only by courage and bravery 
of thought does the work of  the world  

keep itself fresh and ever renewed and  
changing towards  better things4 ,never 
be afraid that because you have not     
tried to  do a thing you will be unable 
to do it4 ,if the thought of doing  it  
has come to you1 it is a sign that some 
power is there1 at any  rate1 and the   
impulse to improve and change a thing   
for the better  is just that creative   
impulse stirring within1 which ,i have  
pleaded  for4 ,whose is that impulse8   
,not our own entirely4 ,then surely if  
it is good1 we do right at least to try 
to carry it out4 ,it is the  ,mind that 
changes matter1 but it is not your mind 
nor mine1 though  it is in our charge4  
,and happy is he who has faith to listen
 and  give it force and visible         
expression4    ,there are in this little
 book things that many of the wiser folk
  shake their heads over--catapults for 
instance4 ,yet ,i have put  them in2 for
 surely if we older folk had not enjoyed
 our catapults  we should probably have 
been sadder folk1 as well as wiser4 ,all

  children may some day or other handle 
instruments of offense and  destruction1
 and it is part of their legitimate     
education to  learn to do no harm with  
them1 so ,i have put in the catapult4 ,i
  enjoyed playing with mine1 and ,i do  
not think ,i ever broke anything  with  
it1 ,i do not even remember hitting     
anything ,i aimed at1 and  probably this
 is the average experience4 ,i have not 
attempted to  enter into any lengthy    
suggestions as regards making boats1 or 
other toys requiring much patience and  
skill and knowledge of  tools4          
,boat-making is a most interesting thing
 for both boys and  girls1 and can be   
carried to great perfection by them1 if 
they  have perseverance4 ,i see no      
reason why the making of model boats    
and mechanical toys should not be the   
special work of boys' manual  classes1  
nor is there any reason why a great     
quantity of the  craft-work and         
needlework in day and evening schools   
should not be  commercialized1 and      

disposed of by the educational          
authorities1  both to the advantage of  
the teachers and the pupils4 ,one field 
alone--that of providing souvenirs for  
sale to tourists--is a  large one1 and  
is at present open to the schools4      
,tourists do  not come here with any    
desire to buy souvenirs made abroad2    
they  would greatly prefer things with a
 local flavor1 and preferably  small and
 portable4 ,i know from personal        
experience how immensely  such a market 
encourages students to work at their    
classes in the  evenings4 ,we could keep
 the evening schools packed with        
students  if they realized that their   
work1 done in leisure hours1 had some   
prospect of bringing in a return instead
 of involving outlay  alone4 ,this also 
is playwork2 and though this small book 
deals only  with such playwork in its   
infancy1 yet it must be emphatically    
urged that it develops into great       
things1 things that the nation  needs1  
and which can only come to their full   

development because  the nation's       
children have learned to play4    ,my   
thanks are due to my grandfather1       
grandmother1 and my father and  mother1 
and to my nurses whose names ,i have    
forgotten1 but from  whom ,i learned to 
make many things4 ,also to ,mrs4        
,grisedale1 ,mrs4  ,wear1 ,mrs4 ,fry1   
,mrs4 ,fellows1 ,miss ,allright1 ,miss  
,worsdell1 ,miss  ,douglas1 ,miss       
,arthur1 ,mr4 ,j4 ,t4 ,ewen1 ,h4,m4,i41 
,mr4 ,forrester ,wilson1  and to ,norman
 ,guild1 for many suggestions1 and for  
their very  practical help4          ,a 
,,woollen ,,ball      ,,materials       
,,required3--     ,a small strip of     
thick cardboard1 a small piece of       
string1 wool1   scissors4               
,illustration3 ,,figs4 #a ,,and #b4     
,this is the easiest of all the things  
one can make in wool4 ,take a  narrow   
piece of stiff cardboard1 or a flat     
stick about five inches  long and about 
one inch wide1 and make a slit at each  
end3 between  these two slits stretch a 

piece of thin string and then1 about the
  middle of the strip of cardboard1 wind
 the wool over and over till  it is like
 a ball4 ,do not allow the wool to      
spread too far along  the cardboard4    
,when the ball of wool is two1 or two   
and a half  inches in diameter1 loosen  
the string from the slits1 and slip out 
the cardboard carefully from the ball2  
you will not have a bundle  of wool with
 a string running through all the loops4
 ,tie the string  up tightly and knot it
 well1 then take your scissors and cut  
the  loops as in ,figure #b4 ,after all 
the loops are cut you will have to  clip
 all the loose ends1 till they are about
 even in length1 and  the bundle will   
now be a nice regular shape4 ,this is a 
somewhat  wasteful way of making a ball1
 and should only be used by very  little
 children with waste wool or cotton     
yarn4 ,it teaches them1  however1 a very
 useful thing--to wind wool evenly1 and 
to cut and  trim it4          ,,another 
,,woollen ,,ball      ,,materials       

,,required3--     ,two used postcards or
 pieces of thin cardboard1 a strong     
darning   needle1 odd pieces of         
bright-colored wools1 scissors4         
,illustration3 ,,figs4 #c ,,and #d4     
,a very much better way to make a       
woollen ball1 but more difficult1  is   
shown in ,figures #c and #d4 ,here you  
must first have a piece of  fairly stiff
 cardboard and on it lay a teacup or    
tumbler with the  rim on the cardboard4 
,draw with a pencil1 or scratch with the
  scissors round the rim so that you    
have a circle about three and  a half or
 four inches across on it1 and cut these
 circles out4  ,then take some smaller  
circular thing1 a quarter1 or something 
about that size1 and place it carefully 
in the center of each of  your larger   
circles1 and cut out the smaller circle 
like a hole  in the middle of the bigger
 one4 ,now take some wool--you can have 
it of many bright colors1 and if you    
have any old woollen knitted  things    
which you do not need you can unravel   

them4 ,slip one end  of your wool       
through the hole of both pieces of      
cardboard when  they are laid together1 
tie it in a knot1 and with your fingers 
at first1 and later with a darning      
needle1 keep winding the wool  through  
the hole and over and over the cardboard
 until it is all  covered4 ,go on       
winding it through the hole1 until the  
hole is so  full that even your needle  
will not push through4 ,then you must   
take sharp scissors and carefully cut   
the wool at the outer edge  of this     
round cushion you have wound1 till the  
scissors cut into  the cardboard1 so    
that you can slip one point between the 
two cards  and cut right round the      
circle4 ,you must be careful not to let 
the  wool be pulled out of the hole     
through which you have threaded it4     
,now take a piece of thin strong string1
 slip it round between  the two         
cardboard circles1 wind it two or three 
times1 and tie it  very tightly4 ,next1 
carefully tear away your two cardboard  

rounds  and you will have a fine firm   
ball1 which only needs cutting  and     
trimming with the scissors into an even 
shape4 ,you can make  this ball look    
very pretty by arranging your wool as   
you wind  it into different layers of   
varying color or make a quarter of  your
 circle of one color and the next       
quarter of another1 and so  on4 ,small  
balls made like this make pretty pompoms
 for shoes and  hats1 and tassels on    
bags1 or they can be fixed on           
drawstrings in  underclothing1 to       
prevent them coming out4          ,a    
,,sprig ,,of ,,flowers      ,,materials 
,,required3--     ,a little thin        
cardboard1 wools of various bright      
colors1   milliner's wire1 a small      
darning needle1 scissors4               
,illustration3 ,,figs4 #e ,,to #i4      
,this can be made very much as the      
second woollen ball is made4 ,you  take 
a circle of cardboard again1 but rather 
a smaller one about  two inches across  
7a small ink bottle or an egg-cup would 

give  about the right size72 and cut in 
it a round hole about as big as  a dime4
 ,wind bright-colored wool through the  
hole and over the  cardboard very       
evenly1 using a darning needle because  
it is such a  small hole4 ,wind on wool 
until all the cardboard is covered      
evenly4  ,then take a piece of wire     
about six inches long1 or a hairpin will
  do if straightened out4 ,you can do   
this by holding the ends tightly  in    
each hand and rubbing the pin backwards 
and forwards against  the edge of a     
table4 ,at one end of the wire bend it1 
so that it  makes a little loop1 the    
smaller the better4 ,now begin with     
green  wool to wrap round the wire1     
covering in the loop first1 and when    
you have covered in the whole loop wind 
the wool over the end of  the bent piece
 again1 and bind it tightly to the other
 portion1  and go on down the wire for  
some distance4 ,with another hairpin    
7not straightened out this time1 but    
bent as much to a point as  possible7 or

 another piece of wire bent like a ,v1  
tie the green  wool at the bend1 and    
wind in and out from one side of the    
wire  to the other1 first letting the   
sides go wide from each other and  then 
gradually tightening them together1 till
 you have them closed  again and they   
become a leaf shape4 ,bind this leaf    
into the first  wire stem1 and add more 
leaves if you wish4 ,now wind over the  
first two fingers of your left hand some
 yellow or dark-colored  wool about a   
dozen times1 and take the end of the    
wool and tie it  through when you       
withdraw your fingers1 as in making the 
first  woollen ball4 ,hold these loops  
tight from this knotted part1 and  wind 
the end of the wool round till it is    
like ,figure #f1 a little  tassel2 take 
your darning needle and sew this tassel 
into the hole  in the circle of         
cardboard so that it makes a center for 
your  flower1 and sew the cardboard     
flower to the loop at the end of the    
wire4 ,you can make two or three small  

tassels for this center if  you like1   
and bind them first around the loop so  
that they fill up  the hole in the      
cardboard quite tightly4 ,more tassels  
can be made  and tied to wires and bound
 into the main wire stem like little    
buds4 ,these sprigs look very pretty    
when worn in hats1 and they  will not   
spoil with the rain3 you can also put a 
large spray in a  vase when you cannot  
get real flowers4          ,a ,,skipping
 ,,rope      ,,materials ,,required3--  
,some cheap thin string or cotton waste1
 some small twigs1 a pencil   or        
penholder1 a strong hook fixed in a     
wall4    ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #aj ,,to
 #ab4    ,take three or four lengths of 
thin string--a very cheap quality  will 
do--about three yards long1 and tie them
 into a knot close to  each end4 ,be    
sure that every separate piece is of the
 same length4  ,then take one knotted   
end and slip the knot round a hook in   
the  wall1 not too high up2 a curtain   
hook will do very well1 or any  other   

knob or projecting thing which will     
allow a very small loop  to slip off and
 on1 and which will hold firmly4 ,into  
the other  end1 at the knot1 slip a     
pencil or penholder1 and hold the strand
  of strings or threads with the left   
thumb and forefinger loosely1  just     
beyond the place the pencil is slipped  
into it1 as in ,figure  #aj4 ,with the  
right hand first finger hit the pencil  
round and round  away from you1         
downwards1 keeping it whirling so that  
the long  strand becomes twisted4 ,do   
not hold too tight with the left hand1  
but be sure to keep the strands taut    
from the hook where they are  fastened4 
,keep on whirling until the strand is   
twisted so tightly  that it begins to go
 into kinks4 ,then get somebody to catch
 the  strand about the middle1 and      
keeping it carefully taut all the time  
walk round until you bring the pencil   
end up to the hook1 and slip  the strand
 from the pencil on to the hook4 ,then  
take the pencil to  where the strand is 

being held in the middle and slip it    
into the  doubled end1 and holding it as
 tightly as possible from the hook1  as 
before1 whirl the pencil in the opposite
 direction1 towards you1  upwards1 as in
 ,figure #aa4 ,this will make a         
beautiful cord4 ,the  pencil can be     
slipped out now1 and the ends on the    
hook must be  knotted together so that  
the cord will not unravel4 ,this is     
called  a twofold cord1 and it can be   
made in two colors if you divide  the   
length before the first twisting into   
two equal lengths of  differently       
colored threads4 ,a threefold cord1 can 
be made in the  same way1 but it must be
 folded into three different lengths    
before  the second twisting1 and three  
different colors may be introduced4  ,a 
threefold cord is much fuller and firmer
 than a twofold one4  ,cords can be made
 of wool or silk or any kind of thread1 
and must  be made of few or many strands
 according to the thickness required1   
and according to the thickness of the   

strands used4 ,thin woollen  cords are  
very nice to run into woolen garments as
 drawstrings1  or into bags2 thick ones 
made of knitting yarn are splendid for  
dressing-gowns1 and the ends can be     
finished off with tassels4    ,if you   
make a skipping rope in this way you    
will want a firm handle  at each end1   
and you can make it by getting three or 
four small  sticks or twigs1 and laying 
them close to each end round your  cord4
 ,then bind these round1 at both ends of
 your skipping rope1  with firm twine4  
,next take the end of the rope which    
projects  beyond the twigs1 and double  
the strands back along the twigs  for a 
short distance1 and bind them down again
 and cut away any  superfluous length1  
and knot your binding string firmly4    
,this will  make a very pretty little   
handle1 especially if you can get pretty
  greenish twigs with the bark on them  
and tie with colored threads  or twine4 
,figure #ab4          ,a ,,sucker       
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a small  

piece of thick leather1 strong string1  
scissors or   penknife4                 
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ac4    ,this is a
 very interesting toy to play with4 ,it 
is very simple to  make3 all it needs is
 a round piece of fairly thick leather  
about  four inches across4 ,cut this    
into a perfect circle with a knife1  if 
the leather is too thick to cut with    
scissors1 and in the very  middle bore a
 small hole and put through this a piece
 of strong  string1 about a yard long1  
and tie a knot in this so that it will  
not slip through the hole4 ,now soak    
your leather in water till it  is very  
soft and damp1 and keep it in this      
condition whenever you  use it4 ,by     
dropping the round of damp leather      
quickly on to the  surface of a smooth  
stone you will be able to lift and carry
 quite  large stones4 ,you must be sure 
to drop the sucker on to the smooth     
surfaces1 because if there are any      
little crevices under the sucker  the   
air in them will prevent suction4       

,,golliwogs      ,,materials            
,,required3--     ,colored wools1 a     
little string1 cotton1 or silk1 and a   
tiny piece   of tape2 a large-eyed      
needle1 scissors4    ,illustration3     
,,figs4 #ad ,,to #ah4    ,these         
golliwogs are made of tassels of wool4  
,first wind your tassel  over your      
fingers much as you wound it for the    
first woollen ball  on the cardboard4   
,then cut the loops1 and tie very       
tightly with  several turns of strong   
cotton or silk close to the end1 and    
again  about half an inch lower4 ,this  
forms the head1 and the ends at the  top
 can be trimmed into a top knot4 ,below 
the head1 divide off a  small portion on
 each side for the arms1 and tie each of
 these  again about half way down1 and  
cut off just below the tied portion1    
where the dotted line is in ,figure #ad4
 ,tie also for the waist at  the double 
dotted line1 and then1 if legs are      
required1 divide the  remaining part of 
the tassel into two1 and tie at the     

feet4 ,take a  needle with thread or    
wool of a different color from that you 
have  used for the golliwog1 and stitch 
in eyes and nose4 ,figure #ae makes  a  
very good ,zulu chief1 if he is made in 
black wool4 ,figure #af is  a ,red      
,cross nurse4 ,she can be made in light 
blue or gray wool1 and  her cap and     
apron are made of a small piece of tape1
 each sewn with  a red cross4 ,her cap  
must be folded and stitched up the back 
like  ,figure #ag1 and her neck1 wrists1
 and belt must be wound with white      
thread4 ,the little turban golliwog1    
,figure #ah1 has his headdress  made of 
a short bundle of wool of another color 
pushed through the  folded loop of wool 
which forms his head4 ,his arms also can
 be a  separate bundle of strands pushed
 through the body portion4              
,,the ,,meal ,,sack      ,,materials    
,,required3--     ,a tiny piece of      
calico1 white cotton1 cotton wool1 scent
 powder   or lavender flowers1 several  
apple pips1 needle and thread1 and      

scissors4    ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #ai 
,,to #ba4    ,this makes a very pretty  
scent bag or pincushion4    ,take a     
small piece of calico or any cotton     
scrap1 about three  inches wide and six 
inches long1 and fold it across the     
middle4  ,take a needle and cotton and  
tack it up the sides1 and down again1   
if you cannot make small stitches1      
keeping both rows of stitches  very     
close together4 ,now fray out the       
threads at the ends of your  strip1 and 
turn the bag inside out4 ,you can fill  
it with lavender  if you like1 or stuff 
it with cotton wool and some powdered   
scent2  or you can stuff it quite tight 
with bran instead1 and make a           
pincushion of it4 ,tie the opening up   
tightly with strong thread1  ,figure    
#bj4 ,now take one or two pips from an  
apple or an orange1 to  make a mouse3 if
 it is an apple pip take a penknife and 
scratch  out eyes and ears1 as in       
,figure #ba4 ,if you use an orange pip  
you  can ink in the eye and the ear4    

,now stitch your little mouse on to     
your meal sack1 and it will be a very   
dainty little gift to put by  for       
,christmas4 ,you can also make pretty   
sets of scent bags out of  bits of      
ribbon or silk patterns from the        
dressmaker's1 or cut off  any old scraps
 of thin materials you find4 ,make six  
little bags  of different colors and    
stuff with cotton wool and scent1 and   
tie  round the neck of each the end of a
 piece of narrow baby ribbon2  tie the  
first bag with a piece nine inches long1
 and each of the  other bags should have
 a ribbon a little longer than the last4
 ,then  tie all the loose ends of the   
six ribbons together with a bow of      
ribbon1 and you will have a charming    
cluster of sachets to hang in  a        
wardrobe4          ,,an ,,emery         
,,cushion      ,,materials ,,required3--
     ,a tiny piece of red ribbon or     
silk1 a tiny piece of calico or   cotton
 material1 strong red cotton thread1    
yellow or silk thread1   green wool1 a  

little emery powder1 a tiny piece of    
hard soap or   wax candle1 scissors1 and
 crewel needle4    ,illustration3       
,,figs4 #bb ,,to #bd4    ,to make this  
you must get a little bright red        
material about three  inches square and 
a little thin cotton material the same  
size4 ,lay  both together and fold them 
diagonally across from corner to corner 
with the red material inside1 and with  
fine thread and needle and  very small  
stitches sew it from the two loose      
corners up to the  point where it is    
folded1 so that it forms a triangular   
bag4 ,now  the bag should be folded over
 so that you can measure off on the     
diagonal fold the same length as the    
stitched seam1 and cut away  the extra  
material as in ,figure #bb4 ,now take   
some hard soap1 or a  piece of wax      
candle1 and rub it hard all over the    
cotton material  in order to prevent    
your emery stuffing getting out1 trim   
off any  extra thickness of material at 
the point1 and turn the bag red side    

out and run it very finely round the    
opening with strong needle and  thread4 
,draw the thread up a little1 as in     
,figure #bc1 and now take  your emery   
powder and fill up tight with that4 ,if 
you cannot get  emery get some fine dry 
sand1 or you can even pound up some     
cinders  out of the fire1 and fill your 
little bag very tight with the  powder  
you make1 and draw up the thread and    
stitch it very close4  ,next you must   
take your green wool or silk1 and make  
long loop  stitches all round the top   
until all the opening and the gathered  
up portion is neatly covered with these 
stitches1 like sepals on  a flower4     
,stitch on a little cord or loop of     
ribbon1 and with a  yellow thread make  
even stitches all over your little bag1 
till it  looks just like a              
strawberry--,figure #bd4                
,,rat-,,tail ,,knitting      ,,materials
 ,,required3--     ,a large cork1 large 
reel1 or a small piece of a narrow      
cardboard   roller1 strong pins1        

preferably those known as laundry pins1 
a   small crochet hook1 colored wools4  
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #be4    ,this is  
known as rat-tail knitting1 or cork or  
bobbin work4 ,it can  be made either by 
boring a hole in a large flat cork and  
setting  seven or eight pins in round   
this hole1 or by setting the pins into  
a reel with a large hole1 but ,i have   
found the best thing is to  get a small 
tube of cardboard such as paper is      
rolled on 7out of a  toilet roll1 for   
instance71 and to stick the pins firmly 
into the  cardboard1 as in ,figure #be4 
,five or six pins will do4 ,take colored
  wool and loop it once round each pin1 
then wrap it very loosely  once round   
the whole circle of pins1 and1 with     
another large pin  or a small crochet   
hook1 lift each loop up and over the    
last wrap  of the thread1 and over the  
head of the pin4 ,do this right round   
the circle of pins1 so that you have now
 a second series of loops  made from the
 thread which was wrapped round above   

the first ones1  while the first loops  
have begun to descend into the tube4    
,work  round and round till the end of  
your knitted rat-tail appears out  of   
the tube at the lower end4 ,you can knot
 on lengths of wool of  other colors and
 make very pretty reins with them4 ,you 
can1 if  you like1 work with two        
differently colored threads1 all the    
time  using one color for the loops you 
lift1 over a wrap thread of  another    
color1 alternating as you work round and
 round your circle4  ,this is really    
just the way a knitting-machine works1  
very much  simplified4 ,you can do the  
same on a larger scale with a wooden    
ring into which pegs of wood are        
inserted1 and this will make quite  a   
large woollen muffler4          ,a      
,,peep-,,show ,,picture      ,,materials
 ,,required3--     ,a small piece of    
glass from an old photograph-frame1 some
 firm   brown or colored paper1 any tiny
 flowers1 leaves1 etc41 a piece of      
stamp paper4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4   

#bf4    ,collect a tiny bunch of the    
smallest flowers you can find1 daisies1 
buttercups1 violets1 even little weeds  
like chickweed1 and small  grasses1     
clover leaves1 or sprays of moss2 tie   
them very loosely  in a little bunch4   
,now lay your piece of glass down on    
your paper  7the paper may be any color1
 but the blue sugar-bag paper looks     
very pretty47 ,take your little bunch of
 flowers and arrange it flat  on the    
glass1 with the faces of the flowers    
pressed against the  glass1 and the     
leaves and moss pressed flat on top of  
them4 ,put  the prettiest side of them  
next the glass4 ,when all the surface of
  the glass is fairly well covered fold 
the paper over the flowers  so that it  
makes a neat parcel1 and fasten down the
 corners of the  parcel with stamp      
paper4 ,then turn your parcel over1 and 
round  three sides1 about half an inch  
from the edge1 cut a neat line1 so  that
 the paper will now lift like a flap and
 show your very pretty  picture4        

,seaweeds can be used instead of        
flowers--and if so1 they  should be     
arranged on the glass in a dish of water
 and floated into  place4          ,,cup
 ,,and ,,ball      ,,materials          
,,required3--     ,a piece of thin      
cardboard about eight inches square1    
scraps of   tissue paper1 string1 odd   
scraps of veiling1 net1 or thin silk or 
muslin1 paste or mucilage1 scissors4    
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bg4    ,this is a
 very good toy to play with1 and can be 
easily made4 ,get  a piece of cardboard 
about six inches square and draw a line 
from  corner to corner and cut it       
across4 ,then roll this triangle of     
cardboard into a long cone shape1 about 
two and a half inches wide  at the open 
end1 and with a strip of thin gummed    
paper across the  overlapping edge fix  
it down tight1 so that it will not open 
out  again4 ,with the scissors trim the 
open end to an even round4 ,next  take a
 large piece of tissue or any other thin
 soft paper1 and  roll it into a neat   

round ball1 which must loosely fit the  
opening  of the cone4 ,wind a thread of 
wool over it in one direction1 and      
another so that it keeps its shape4     
,now1 if you can get a piece of  a black
 veil1 or some very thin soft net or    
muslin1 cover over the  ball so that it 
looks quite neat and round and even1 and
 stitch a  thin string about eighteen   
inches long to it4 ,you can now cover   
the  cup also with the veiling if you   
wish to1 and if so1 leave about  three  
inches over at the open end1 which must 
be drawn together1  and the draw thread 
then pushed down inside the cone and    
fastened  off at the closed end4 ,it can
 have a little cork put in to fill it   
up4 ,put the end of the string through a
 hole near the opening of  the cone and 
your cup and ball is finished4          
,,storks      ,,materials ,,required3-- 
,large flat corks1 ordinary bottle      
corks1 large and small4   ,hairpins1    
burnt matches1 small feathers1 penknife4
    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bh4          

,first1 for the body of the big stork   
get a good large cork1 and  with a      
penknife cut it into a longish egg      
shape2 then another small  cork must be 
cut almost round for the head4 ,for the 
base the stork  stands on one of the    
large corks out of pickle jars does     
best1 but  if you cannot get one take   
several pieces of thick cardboard and   
paste them together1 or take the lid of 
a small cardboard box and  make holes   
for the ends of the legs in it1 and     
after pushing the  ends of the hairpins 
through1 run them into small pieces of  
cork1  so that they will keep in place  
when standing4 ,now get a burnt  match  
and sharpen it at either end1 and push  
one end of it into the  head1 and the   
other into the body1 and set the legs   
into place in  the body also4 ,use      
hairpins that have no waves or angles in
 them1  so that the bend of the pin     
makes the right bend for the leg4 ,make 
the beak of two matches1 trimmed to a   
sharp point1 and you can use  a tiny    

black bead for the eyes1 or draw them   
with ink4 ,the feathers  for the crest  
and wings and tail must be stuck into   
holes1 after  having a little mucilage  
put on the end of the quill4          ,a
 ,,rabbit      ,,materials ,,required3--
     ,large cork1 tiny piece of brown   
paper1 a fragment of cotton wool1       
needle1 strong thread1 penknife1        
scissors4    ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bi 
,,and #cj4    ,this also is of cork1    
shaped out to rather a point at the head
 and  cut flat underneath4 ,cut little  
nicks on each side to define the  feet4 
,the ears are of brown paper cut like   
,figure #cj1 with corners  folded over  
and glued or put on with a stitch of    
strong linen  thread1 small dot of ink  
or a small bead makes the eye4          
,a ,,cork ,,doll      ,,materials       
,,required3--     ,flat cork1 two bottle
 corks1 burnt matches1 a tiny piece of  
thin   cotton material1 the same of     
white paper and of colored ribbon1 a    
large2 pin1 a little black or brown     

wool1 needle1 mucilage4                 
,illustration3 ,,figs4 #ca ,,and #cb4   
,the body is a nice smooth cork and the 
pinafore is a piece of  white paper tied
 on with the piece of ribbon ,the arms  
and legs are  matches sharpened and well
 pressed in2 it is best to have their   
points glued4 ,the head is a small cork 
covered with a piece of  white cotton   
material cut in a circle and tied       
tightly at the neck4  ,draw in the eyes1
 nose1 and mouth with a soft black      
pencil1 or  paint them with rather dry  
water-color paint4 ,take dark wool and  
make large loose stitches for the hair1 
and then run through1 from  crown to    
neck1 a large strong pin to fix the head
 to the body4 ,the  frill of material   
below the place the head is tied on     
makes a neat  tucker when it is arranged
 nicely4 ,for each foot lay a little    
piece  of match on the base of cork1    
where the leg is stuck into it1 and     
glue it down4          ,a ,,cork ,,horse
      ,,materials ,,required3--     ,a  

flat cork1 and one large and one small  
bottle cork1 burnt   matches1 black     
wool1 a little black tape1 a tiny piece 
of colored   paper1 needle1 scissors1   
penknife4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cc4 
,use a nice smooth cork for the body1   
and cut out a little saddle in  colored 
paper1 and glue it into place1 bind it  
round with a piece  of tape or ribbon   
for the girth1 and you can make little  
stirrups  out of wire or silver paper   
and hang them on from this4 ,the head is
  a small cork out of a medicine bottle1
 with brown paper ears1 cut  just like  
the rabbit's but much smaller and with  
only one fold4 ,the  mane is of loops of
 black wool sewed on to tape1 and bound 
firmly  down to the match that makes the
 neck4 ,the tail is also of black  wool1
 and the stand or base can be either a  
cork or box lid2 if it  is the latter   
the legs must be glued into holes       
carefully cut to  fit them4             
,,an ,,engine ,,and ,,tender            
,,materials ,,required3--     ,one large

 bottle cork and several small ones1 one
 matchbox1 large   strong pins1         
preferably laundry pins4                
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cd4    ,use a    
large cork for the engine and a portion 
of a small cork for  the funnel4 ,the   
dome can be made of the remaining piece 
of the  latter and must be rounded at   
one end4 ,pin both onto the boiler      
portion4 ,the wheels are slices of cork 
set into place with pins4  ,the tender  
is a matchbox with the sides cut down at
 one place to  make the entrance1 and   
another matchbox makes the windscreen4  
,to  make the wheels of the tender hold 
steady1 cut long slices of  cork the    
width of the matchbox1 and run the pins 
into these after  piercing the sides of 
the box1 as seen in the top view of the 
engine4          ,a ,,chest ,,of        
,,drawers      ,,materials ,,required3--
     ,a number of empty matchboxes1 a   
number of shoe buttons1 colored or      
brown paper1 mucilage4    ,illustration3
 ,,fig4 #ce4    ,this is a very neat    

chest of drawers1 or writing-desk1 made 
of  matchboxes2 it also makes very good 
furniture for a toy grocer's  shop4     
,have all your matchboxes of one size   
and color1 and fix them  all together in
 their outer cases with mucilage4 ,next 
get a piece  of pretty colored paper    
7pieces of flowered wall-paper look very
  nice1 or blue paper of a sugar bag71  
and glue this round the ends  and top of
 your chest of drawers4 ,now in the end 
of each box cut a  small hole and push  
through it the shank of a shoe button1  
and peg  this through with a tiny slip  
of wood or a roll of paper1 so that  it 
holds quite firm4 ,glue on to the bottom
 of your chest of drawers  some buttons 
without shanks1 or wooden button moulds1
 to form the  feet4          ,a ,,cradle
      ,,materials ,,required3--     ,an 
empty matchbox1 a cork1 needle and      
thread1 scissors1 mucilage1   penknife4 
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cf4    ,use an   
empty matchbox1 and on the bottom glue  
two halves of a  slice of cork for      

rockers4 ,for the hood take the outer   
case of  the matchbox and unfasten it   
where it is joined1 and cut off a       
lengthwise strip about three-quarters of
 an inch wide1 using one of  the corners
 of this for the peak of the hood4 ,take
 a needle with  strong thread1 and with 
two large firm stitches fasten this     
strip  to each side of the box1 taking  
care to make the hood a nice even       
shape4 ,now you can take a little muslin
 and lace and sew it on for  little     
curtains and frills1 to trim the cradle 
with1 and roll some  scraps of material 
up to make a neat mattress and pillow4  
,a ,,doll',s ,,table      ,,materials   
,,required3--     ,a small box lid of   
cardboard1 large reel1 mucilage4        
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cg4    ,this     
table is made of a round box lid fixed  
with mucilage on to a  spool4 ,a square 
lid will do equally well4          ,a   
,,doll',s ,,bed      ,,materials        
,,required3--     ,small cardboard box  
and lid1 needle and thread1 lace or     

ribbon1   small piece of wadding and    
muslin1 or a piece of thin material1    
scissors4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ch4 
,first cover the bottom of the cardboard
 box with a layer of soft  material or  
wadding1 with thin cotton over it1 and  
take large  tacking stitches to fasten  
this down4 ,next fix on your canopy by  
setting the lid upright on to the end of
 the box1 and glue or fix  it into place
 with stationers' paper clips or large  
stitches4 ,trim  the canopy round the   
top with a little frill of lace or      
muslin1 and  put the same1 as a valance1
 round the bed portion4 ,you can also   
add  curtains at each side of the       
canopy1 and1 if you want a footboard1   
that also can be fixed across the bottom
 with big stitches or paper  clips      
before the valance frill is sewed on4   
,you can make quite  large beds in this 
way1 and if you have not a very pretty  
box you  can trim it up with pieces of  
wall-paper pasted inside the canopy4    
,a ,,doll',s ,,chair      ,,materials   

,,required3--     ,slice of cork or a   
chestnut1 large strong pins1 colored    
wool4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ci4     
,the seat is a slice of cork or a       
chestnut1 and the legs and back  are    
made of pins1 the large ones called     
laundry pins are the  best4 ,wind pretty
 wool in and out between the pins to    
make the back  look like a nice cushion4
 ,you can cover the cork seat with a    
piece  of colored material if you wish4 
,,another ,,doll',s ,,chair             
,,materials ,,required3--     ,small    
piece of thin cardboard or post card1   
small piece of pretty   material1 a     
spool1 needle and thread1 scissors4     
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dj4    ,this     
chair is harder to make than the last   
one4 ,first cut a piece  of cardboard or
 two pieces of old post cards to the    
shape marked ,a4  ,it must be large     
enough to allow it to reach halfway     
round the top  of a reel at its widest  
part1 where the corners are4 ,now tack  
on to  this a piece of velveteen or any 

other pretty material1 so that the      
edges turn over to the wrong side of the
 cardboard4 ,on the second  piece of    
card take the material only down just a 
little below the  two corners of the    
cardboard1 and you need not turn it in  
on the  straight edge between these     
corners4 ,tack both cards together with 
the material outside1 and overseam or   
topsew them as shown in  ,figure #dj ,a4
 ,next take your reel and bind tightly  
over each end  of it a round piece of   
material1 and then take a narrow strip  
of  material or ribbon1 and turn in the 
edges and wrap it round the  reel as in 
#dj ,b1 and tack the strip into place   
very tight4 ,now fix  on the back as in 
#dj ,c with neat little stitches1 and   
your chair is  finished4                
,,necklaces      ,,materials            
,,required3--     ,needles1 strong      
thread of linen or silk1 seeds1 beads1  
acorn cups1   daisies4    ,illustration3
 ,,figs4 #da ,,to #dc4    ,these are    
some of the necklaces you can make of   

things you find in  the country1 or of  
seeds you come across4    ,figure #da is
 made of rose hips threaded together4   
,if you want to  make the cross or      
pendant1 you can use a few small beads  
so that  your radiating hips will hold  
more steadily4 ,these will hold better  
into place if you put a strong          
surrounding line of stitches into  them4
    ,figure #db is of melon seeds or    
sunflower seeds1 either will do4        
,figure #dc1 of the same1 but threaded  
twice through each seed1 with  a tiny   
bead between and a pendant loop of seeds
 and beads below4    ,figure #dd is a   
snake made of acorn cups4 ,begin at the 
head 7with  is a large acorn with the   
shell cut to make eyes and mouth71 and  
thread through the mouth1 then thread on
 your biggest acorn cups1  gradually    
choosing smaller and smaller ones till  
you get to the  tail1 where it should be
 finished with a tassel4                
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dd4    ,figure   
#de is the prettiest daisy chain4 ,the  

stems are nipped off  and the daisies   
threaded through the center4 ,this makes
 a very  beautiful wreath4              
,illustration3 ,,figs4 #de ,,to #dg4    
,a ,,hatband      ,,materials           
,,required3--     ,small autumn leaves1 
broad tape or carpet binding1 needle and
   thread4    ,pick up the prettiest    
leaves which are nearly the same in     
size4  ,use a thread of brown mending   
yarn and carefully sew the leaves  down 
on to a piece of broad tape or carpet   
binding4 ,after you have  finished the  
sewing press the hatband for some days  
under a pile of  newspapers or heavy    
books1 so that the leaves will dry flat4
          ,a ,,fan      ,,materials     
,,required3--     ,large leaves of      
,spanish chestnut1 smaller leaves1 thin 
cardboard1   needle and brown silk or   
wool4    ,this fan is made of the large 
leaves of the ,spanish chestnut2 you    
can pick these up already beautifully   
dry and flat in the woods in  autumn4   
,get about twenty of the same size1 and 

cut a semicircle of  firm cardboard and 
sew them on to it1 so that the fan holds
 very  firm1 then over your stitches sew
 on smaller leaves of varying  colors4  
,you will find this makes a most        
beautiful ornament for your             
mantelpiece4           99       99      
99       99       99    ,figures #dh to 
#ee are windmills1 some very easy and   
some more  difficult1 but all very      
interesting toys4          ,a           
,,pin-,,wheel ,,or ,,whirligig          
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a square 
of stiff writing paper1 an old          
penholder1 skewer1 or a   straight twig1
 a strong pin or a slim upholstery nail 
with a large   head1 scissors4          
,illustration3 ,,figs4 #dh ,,to #ej4    
,this pinwheel is made of a piece of    
firm writing paper4 ,cut the  paper into
 a perfect square1 and fold it          
diagonally from corner to  corner and   
smooth out again1 then cut along your   
folds to within  an inch of the center4 
,now cut a tiny round of strong paper or

 a  piece of a postcard about half an   
inch across and take a strong  short pin
 and put it through the middle4 ,then   
push your pin through  each right-hand  
corner of your square of writing paper1 
and lastly  through the center of the   
square1 and take a piece of stick or a  
penholder and push the point of the pin 
in till it is halfway in4  ,you will    
find your windmill will turn as you run1
 if you hold it  out straight in front  
of you4 ,if you can get two good sticks 
you  can use a long one as the upper    
part of a weather vane4 ,rut a nail     
through1 rather nearer your pinwheel    
than the middle of the stick4  ,at the  
other end make a long slit and put in a 
paper tail1 so that  the pinwheel will  
keep its head to the wind4 ,fix your    
nail into the  end of the other stick1  
and set the stick upright in the ground 
as  in ,figure #ej4          ,a ,,tin   
,,wheel ,,or ,,buzzer      ,,materials  
,,required3--     ,a circle of thin tin 
or a tin lid1 a stick of soft wood1 an  

upholsterer's nail1 tin cutters4        
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ea4    ,this     
windmill is made of tin2 this is rather 
difficult to cut  unless your hands are 
strong1 but sometimes you can get very  
thin  tin or brass from kindergarten    
stores1 and it is quite easy to make  it
 of this4 ,draw a circle about four     
inches across on the tin1  round a jam  
pot or some such thing to give you a    
good even circle1  and cut this out with
 the scissors4 ,now take a ruler and    
scratch  lines across your circle1 at   
right angles first1 so that you have    
your circle divided into quarters2 now  
divide these quarters again  into three 
or four divisions1 and draw a smaller   
circle on your  tin about three quarters
 of an inch1 or less1 from the outer    
edge4  ,now make a clean cut with the   
scissors from the edge to the inner     
circle along each line4 ,the tin will   
always bend in one way as you  do this1 
and you must leave the little divisions 
bent very evenly4  ,make a hole in the  

center of your wheel and fix it strongly
 with a  nail into a stick4 ,you will   
find you can hardly hold your windmill  
if you stand with it facing a steady    
wind4 ,this windmill is a grand  one to 
go4          ,a ,,wooden ,,mill         
,,materials ,,required3--     ,two      
narrow strips of thin1 soft wood1 a     
stick for a holder1 a   screw1 penknife1
 gimlet4    ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #eb  
,,and #ec4    ,this is a wooden mill and
 it requires some care and skill to make
  it4 ,it can easily be made with a     
penknife out of two pieces of  thin1    
soft wood4 ,first you must cut a neat   
socket across each piece  of wood in the
 center1 halfway through its thickness4 
,the socket  must be exactly the same   
width as your piece of wood1 so that    
when  you set each piece socket to      
socket they fit exactly4 ,now with an   
awl or pricker make a neat hole in the  
center of the two pieces  when they are 
fitted together4 ,next you must shave   
away with your  penknife the right-hand 

edge of each of the arms or sails of    
your windmill1 graduating the shaving   
evenly from the left-hand  edge1 where  
it is thick1 to a fine blade at the     
right-hand edge4  ,now fit together the 
two halves and put a nail through the   
hole and  fasten it into the end of a   
stick4 ,if the nail is apt to split the 
stick you can put a reel on to the end  
of it and fix the nail into  the stick  
through the hole of the reel4 ,it is a  
very good thing to  put your nail       
through a large glass bead between the  
windmill and  the stick4          ,a    
,,feather ,,wheel      ,,materials      
,,required3--     ,four large quills1 a 
piece of firm cardboard1 a cork1 a box  
for a   gas mantle1 a straight stick or 
old penholder1 paper1 mucilage1   needle
 and strong thread4    ,illustration3   
,,fig4 #ed4    ,this windmill is made of
 goose quills1 or any other large strong
  quill2 these must be chosen with the  
wider webbing of the feather  all on the
 same side1 and must be the same size4  

,cut a circle of  firm cardboard and lay
 each quill with its point in the middle
 of  this circle and stitch them firmly 
down at right angles to each  other4    
,glue the wrong side of the cardboard on
 to a reel or a piece  of cork1 and fix 
this on the end of a small stick or     
penholder4 ,now  take a small           
cylindrical cardboard box--those used   
for gas mantles  are excellent--and bore
 holes through opposite sides of this1  
about halfway down4 ,push the stick     
through and fix into a slit at  the end 
of it a tail of paper or cardboard4     
,take another piece of  cardboard and   
shape it into a cone1 exactly as in     
,figure #bg for the  cup and ball4 ,cut 
a hole in the bottom of your box and fit
 it on to  the end of the cone1 which   
must be cut down to allow the stick to  
pass clear of the end of the cone4      
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a narrow 
strip of soft wood1 a cork1 four luggage
 labels or post   cards1 a penholder1   
strong glue1 a penknife1 an             

upholsterer's   nail1 a gimlet4         
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ee4    ,this is  
made of two pieces of wood socketed as  
in ,figure #ec1 and  with slits made in 
each end into which a luggage label is  
inserted4  ,use glue to hold these firm1
 and also to stick on to the center of  
the cross of wood a slice of cork1      
pierce a hole through the cork  and the 
cross of wood1 and through it run a nail
 with a fairly  large head4 ,now make a 
hole at each outer left-hand corner of  
each  label and1 loop through this with 
a needle and a firm thread4 ,tie  the   
thread round the nail and run the nail  
into your stick4          ,,an ,,air    
,,propeller      ,,materials            
,,required3--     ,a piece of soft wood 
three-quarters of an inch thick and     
about   six or seven inches long1 a     
gimlet1 a soft wood skewer1 penknife1   
sandpaper4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ef4
    ,this is a little air propeller     
which is rapidly whirled between  both  
hands and released3 if properly done it 

should return to the  hands4 ,the       
propeller is cut out of wood on the same
 principle as  in ,figure #eb1 but it   
may be of thicker wood with a greater   
amount  of angle to the blades4 ,the    
stick must be carefully fitted to  the  
hole in the blades and must be thicker  
at the other end4 ,both  blades and     
stick should be well smoothed with      
sandpaper4          ,a ,,reversing      
,,propeller      ,,materials            
,,required3--     ,two pieces of wood as
 above1 also two larger round sticks1   
such as   are used to roll paper upon1 a
 cork1 two long nails1 a piece of   thin
 tin or cardboard for the tail4         
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eg4    ,this     
windmill is made of two propellers cut  
like ,figure #ef1 but  with the         
bevelling of the blades of one reversed 
so that it will  turn in the opposite   
direction4 ,a piece of wood or cork or a
  bead may be put between each          
propeller4 ,the tail may be made of     
cardboard or tin4          ,a           

,,waterwheel ,,and ,,shute              
,,materials ,,required3--     ,smooth   
straight twigs about half an inch thick1
 a thin wooden   sweet-box or other     
light wooden box1 two small pieces of   
white   soft wood1 about one-third of an
 inch thick and five inches long   and  
one inch broad1 a piece of thick wire1  
small tacks1 pliers1 a   gimlet1 small  
staples1 strong thin string4            
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eh4    ,this is a
 waterwheel with a watershute1 and it   
turns a crank and  has a little man     
attached4 ,the waterwheel has flat      
blades with no  bevelling1 and a thick  
wire is inserted through its axis4 ,this
 wire  should be bent with pliers to    
form the cranks4 ,set up crosswise  into
 the ground some strong twigs tied      
firmly into position with  strong twine4
 ,if there is a handy little stream it  
should be  diverted to run a channel    
into your watershute1 which should be   
of two flat pieces of wood nailed       
together at right angles2 this  can also

 be supported on trestles4 ,set the     
shute so that the end  is above the     
blade of the waterwheel and allows the  
water to fall  on it with sufficient    
force to turn it round4 ,the man may be 
cut  with a fret-saw in three ply wood1 
and small staples should be run  loosely
 through the holes at the ankles into a 
thicker piece of  wood which acts as a  
base1 so that with the movement of the  
crank  he will appear to be turning the 
wheel4 ,fasten arms and legs to the     
body with a thick wire which works      
loosely in the holes1 or with a  thin   
nail which may be bent over at the      
point4          ,a ,,pop-,,gun          
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a large  
goose quill1 a small twig1 a slice of   
raw potato1 a   penknife4               
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ei4    ,this is a
 most simple little toy and very easy to
 make4 ,get a large  quill feather with 
as wide and strong a quill as you can1  
and  cut it off where the quill is      
thickest4 ,then get a little stick  or  

branch1 preferably a little bent at the 
thicker end1 and peel  and smooth it1 so
 that it will fit nicely into the quill 
with the  thicker bent end projecting4  
,this makes the ramrod1 but it must  be 
fitted into the quill so that it reaches
 only within half an  inch of the       
pointed or smaller end4 ,now take a     
slice of raw potato  about half an inch 
thick or a little more1 and into it push
 the  wider end of the quill so that it 
takes out a neat round piece of  the    
potato4 ,with the ramrod gently push    
this first bullet to the  smaller end of
 the quill and take out another slice   
from the potato  with the wide end4 ,now
 quickly and smartly push in your ramrod
 and  you will find your first bullet   
shoots off splendidly1 leaving your     
second one at the point of the quill    
ready for the next shot4 ,large  popguns
 can be made with a piece of tin tubing1
 or even cardboard  rollers and corks   
used as bullets4 ,the ramrod must be    
padded with  cotton wrapping in order to

 fit the tube closely4          ,a      
,,whistle      ,,materials ,,required3--
     ,a short piece of smooth sycamore1 
willow1 cherry1 or holly branch1   a    
pea1 a penknife4    ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #fj4    ,this can be made of     
sycamore cherry1 holly1 or willow       
branches1  where there is a fairly thick
 coating of sappy bark outside the  firm
 woody fiber4 ,choose a piece about four
 inches long without  knots and as      
smooth as possible4 ,now by tapping     
patiently and  wetting the wood         
occasionally loosen the bark from the   
hard wood  so that it will at last slip 
off like a tube2 this requires care  and
 gentle handling4 ,now take the hard    
wooden core and cut into it1  from the  
middle to within half an inch of one    
end1 a deep curving  cavity1 and from   
this to the other end cut off a shallow 
horizontal  slice4 ,this core can now be
 slipped into the tube of bark again    
and a neat semicircular hole cut in the 
latter above the cavity in  the core1   

and you will find this an excellent     
whistle4 ,scottish  children put a small
 pea into the cavity before replacing it
 into  the tube of bark to make it birl 
when blown--this is a great             
improvement4          ,a ,,long         
,,whistle      ,,materials ,,required3--
     ,a piece of hollow bamboo about    
eight inches long1 a cork1 a   penknife4
    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fa4    ,this 
is another whistle made of a short      
length of bamboo cane1  which is hollow1
 cut just below one of the knots or     
divisions  where the hollow tube is     
blocked by a solid wall of the wood4 ,if
  you cannot get this1 block one open   
end of your hollow tube of  wood with a 
cork1 and for the other cut a piece of  
cork or wood  to fit1 with a slice off  
to leave an opening into the tube4 ,now 
cut semicircular holes in your tube at  
intervals4 ,these will  each produce a  
different note if the others are stopped
 with the  fingers1 and with care a     
regular sequence of the notes of a scale

  can be planned4 ,this sequence will   
depend on the size of the  tube--its    
length1 and the distance between the    
holes4          ,a ,,squeaker           
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a large  
goose quill1 a penknife4                
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fb4    ,this     
squeaker is made from a piece of a      
quill4 ,make a neat cut  close to the   
small end of the quill about three      
quarters of an inch  long4 ,when this is
 held well inside the mouth it will make
 a most  alarming squeak when blown     
into4          ,a ,,buzzer              
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a large  
button or small round of leather or thin
 tin1 a piece of   strong thin string1  
strong scissors4    ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #fc4    ,this can be simply made 
by threading a large button on a string1
  so that when the ends are knotted     
together it makes a loop about  twelve  
to fifteen inches long4 ,keeping the    
button in the middle of  the doubled    
length of string insert the first and   

second fingers of  each hand into the   
looped ends1 and rapidly whirl the      
button round  till the string gets a    
considerable twist on it4 ,now by       
alternately  slacking and tightening the
 string the button will whizz round     
with a slight humming noise4 ,if a piece
 of tin with notched edges  7as in      
,figure #ea of a windmill7 is used1 it  
will hum very loud4 ,a  piece of heavy  
lead foil1 or a piece of firm leather   
cut into a  round and notched at the    
edge can be used4          ,a ,,clapper 
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a fowl's 
merrythought or wishbone1 a small slip  
of thin wood1 a   piece of strong       
string1 penknife4    ,illustration3     
,,fig4 #fd4    ,this is made of a fowl's
 wishbone or merrythought4 ,tie across  
from  end to end of the bone a loop of  
string1 and into this insert  the end of
 a thin piece of wood about four inches 
long and three  quarters of an inch     
wide4 ,slip this in till the string is  
about the  middle1 then turn it round   

several times till the string is twisted
  fairly tight without bending the ends 
of the bone too much4 ,now  slip the    
wooden strip along till the string is   
about an inch from  the end of it and   
let it go4 ,the twisting of the string  
will bring  the wood down against the   
angle of the bone with a smart clap4    
,a ,,telephone      ,,materials         
,,required3--     ,two gas mantle boxes1
 a piece of thin bladder or greaseproof 
paper1 many yards of thin twine4        
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fe4    ,this can 
be made of two of the boxes used for    
incandescent gas  mantles2 the box for  
the larger inverted mantles is best4    
,remove  the lids from each end and cut 
off the rims carefully1 so that you     
have two neat rings of cardboard4 ,slip 
one of these on to one end  of each box 
and over each rim tightly tie a circle  
of greaseproof  paper--such as is used  
for covering jam pots or parcelling     
butter4  ,better still1 use a piece of  
bladder from the butcher's4 ,fasten     

this down very tight and firm1 and      
through the middle of each paper  or    
bladder insert and knot the end of a    
fine piece of string which  can be ten  
or more yards in length4 ,if this is    
held taut without  touching anything    
between the two boxes1 you can whisper  
from end  to end and the voice will be  
heard quite distinctly4          ,a     
,,drum      ,,materials ,,required3--   
,a gas mantle box1 strong greaseproof   
paper or a piece of bladder1   thin     
colored string4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4
 #ff4    ,a little drum can be made of  
these gas mantle boxes in the same  way4
 ,stretch the bladder or paper of oiled 
silk tightly across each  end1 and lace 
strong threads from edge to edge of each
 piece of  bladder or paper or silk1 so 
that each lies evenly1 then bind the    
edges down with twine above the         
stitches2 the rims of the lids can  now 
be slipped on to make it look neat4 ,for
 a drumstick1 wind a  ball of cotton    
wool or tissue paper on the end of a    

stick and cover  with a round of silk or
 bladder also1 and bind it tightly on to
 the  stick4          ,a ,,megaphone    
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a piece  
of thin cardboard fifteen or eighteen   
inches square1   gummed paper or thin   
tape1 paste or mucilage1 scissors4      
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fg4    ,this is  
made of a piece of cardboard about      
fifteen inches square4  ,insert a pair  
of compasses at one corner1 and from the
 one corner  to that diagonally opposite
 describe a part of a circle and cut    
along the line marked4 ,now bend the    
cardboard over into a conical  trumpet  
shape1 and overlap the sides where they 
join1 about an  inch4 ,lay over this    
join a broad strip of cloth or paper    
pasted or  glued firmly2 you can put    
pins through the cardboard till this is 
set into place and dried4 ,now at the   
pointed end of the cone cut a           
mouthpiece wide enough to speak easily  
into2 this will need a hole  about three
 inches wide4 ,when you speak into this 

megaphone your  voice will carry a long 
distance--a quarter of a mile on a quiet
  evening--and it will give great fun to
 watch the effect on people  who are    
walking at some distance in the country4
 ,for convenience  in holding you can   
paste on to the outside a loop or handle
 of  tape1 but do not push this through 
the cardboard as it is important  that  
there should be nothing projecting      
inside the trumpet of the  megaphone4   
,,rush ,,furniture      ,,materials     
,,required3--     ,green rushes1 green  
wool or thick cotton thread4            
,illustration3 ,,figs4 #fh ,,and #fi4   
,this chair and table are made of the   
green rushes from the marshes1  and are 
very pretty things to make4 ,for the    
little chair1 first  take the bundle of 
rushes which forms the curved back1 and 
curve  it into place and tie it round   
here and there with a little wool  to   
keep it firm while the seat is being    
made4 ,this will be better  described by
 the diagram than by words4 ,each rush  

composing the  seat must be added       
successively from the back towards the  
front1  and when arranged1 and the ends 
turned back or forwards to form  front  
and back legs1 stays can be made of     
single rushes and all  carefully bound  
in neatly with wool2 wool holds much    
more firmly  than cotton thread4 ,the   
table1 ,figure #fi1 is made in the same 
way4          ,,rush ,,whip             
,,materials ,,required3--     ,green    
rushes4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gj4   
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ga4    ,the whip 
is the easiest thing you can make of    
rushes4 ,it is bound  at intervals with 
wrapping of the rushes themselves4      
,,rush ,,rattle      ,,materials        
,,required3--     ,green rushes1 small  
round pillbox4    ,this is made on the  
same lines as the whip1 but the bundle  
or sheaf  of rushes is opened out and   
made to surround a small cardboard box  
with a pebble or a pea in it1 and       
another rush laced round to keep  it in 
place4 ,the diagram will show how to    

complete it2 very tight  firm binding is
 needed3 it is better to do it with wool
 rather than  with rushes4              
,,paper ,,beads      ,,materials        
,,required3--     ,colored paper1       
wall-paper or magazine covers1 a        
knitting needle1   scissors1 a ruler1   
mucilage4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gb4 
,this shows how to make beads of various
 shapes out of paper2 it  can be of any 
color4 ,to make the long pointed beads  
marked ,a1 take  a ruler and rule on    
your paper lines as in ,b1 and if the   
paper is  thin they should be strips    
about twelve inches long1 and the wider 
end of the wedge can be one inch or one 
and a half inches4 ,the  strip must     
taper to a point at the other end4 ,now 
take the wide end  of your strip and    
roll it very tightly and evenly round a 
steel  knitting needle with the colored 
side out1 and fix down the point  neatly
 with mucilage as in the darkened       
portion in the diagram4  ,smaller beads 
of various shapes can be made1 but all  

on the same  method4 ,leave the beads on
 the knitting needle till the mucilage  
is  quite dry1 and give them a coat of  
clear varnish4 ,such beads look  well   
also with blobs of paint or gilt on     
them4          ,,fish ,,bone ,,tea ,,set
      ,,materials ,,required3--         
,large and small vertebrae of codfish1 a
 little gilt and water   color paint4   
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gc4    ,this     
little tea set is very dainty and is    
made of the separate  vertebrae or      
backbones of large flat fish4 ,when the 
bones are soft  after boiling1 they can 
be easily bent or cut into the required 
shapes1 and the different sizes of bones
 used for cups or tea pot  can be       
decorated with little patterns in gilt  
paint or water-colors4          ,a      
,,rush ,,or ,,raffia ,,bag              
,,materials ,,required3--     ,green    
rushes or raffia1 fine string1 a small  
piece of cardboard1 a   tape needle4    
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gd4    ,this is a
 little bag made of raffia or rushes1   

woven on to a warp  of string4 ,the     
string should first of all be wound very
 loosely on  to cardboard1 and if       
necessary slits or notches can be cut in
 it  to hold the string firm4 ,now take 
your rush or raffia and darn up  one    
side of the card and down the other and 
back again1 leaving one  long side of   
the card free4 ,you can weave one thread
 up and one  down1 or one thread up and 
two down as you please4 ,when the       
weaving  is finished draw out the       
cardboard and decorate your bag with    
little tassels1 and add plaited handles4
          ,,the ,,harvest ,,plait       
,,materials ,,required3--     ,two long 
stems of straws1 or stalks of oats1     
barley or wheat1 with   ears left on1 a 
little thread4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 
#ge4    ,this is made by ,scottish      
children to wear in their hats at       
harvest  time4 ,take two long firm      
straws with the ears on them and tie    
them  together firmly just below the    
ears4 ,now flatten out each straw and   

bend one across the other1 and the first
 across that again1 making  each fit    
close and fold evenly at the bend4 ,you 
will find this  holds quite firmly1 when
 tied at the end1 and makes a very      
pretty  ornament4 ,the same plait can   
also be done with strips of paper an    
inch wide1 and used as a decoration at  
,christmas4          ,,dolls'           
,,furniture      ,,materials            
,,required3--     ,some branches of     
willow1 freshly cut1 some laundry pins1 
a   penknife1 a little broad tape or    
carpet binding1 needle and thread4      
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gf4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gg4    ,these    
little chairs and stools can be very    
neatly made of willow  or privet        
branches1 or any twigs where there is a 
small core of  soft pith which will     
allow a strong pin to fit in exactly4   
,all  the lengths for the various legs  
and spars of each article must  be      
measured and cut very accurately before 
beginning to put them  together2 use a  

very sharp penknife to do the cutting4  
,the pins  used should be fairly strong 
ones4 ,in the diagrams a broad piece  of
 tape or ribbon has been stretched      
tightly round the spars back  and front1
 and its end stitched together          
underneath1 but this is  not necessary4 
,two or more spars can be set across to 
form the  seat1 only if too many pins   
are pushed through one spar there is a  
tendency for it to split4          ,a   
,,wheelbarrow      ,,materials          
,,required3--     ,a piece of cork or a 
button mould1 an empty matchbox1        
matches1   needle and strong thread1 a  
tiny piece of wire4    ,illustration3   
,,fig4 #gh4    ,a little wheelbarrow can
 be nicely made out of a match or       
cardboard  box4 ,the legs and handles   
are of matches1 and may be fixed on with
  mucilage and held steady with large   
strong stitches4 ,the support  for the  
wheel is made of a strip taken from the 
lid of the matchbox  and narrowed at one
 end where it supports the wheel4 ,the  

wheel may  be made of a slice of cork or
 a button mould fixed on with a piece   
of wire bent into a knot at each end to 
prevent it being pulled  through the    
support4          ,a ,,fern ,,basket    
,,materials ,,required3--     ,fresh-cut
 willow twigs1 laundry pins1 four large 
beads4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gi4    
,this is made of fairly thick twigs cut 
carefully in the same way  as ,figure   
#hd1 and pinned firmly together4 ,beads 
or small buttons  can be fixed on for   
feet4 ,the basket should be entirely    
lined  with pretty moss1 and then the   
earth put in and ferns planted in  it4  
,it must be kept very moist1 and can be 
hung from the roof if  preferred4       
,a ,,doll',s ,,stool      ,,materials   
,,required3--     ,the fireproof base of
 a gas mantle1 a tiny piece of          
cardboard1 a   little wadding and a tiny
 piece of silk or velvet1 mucilage or   
needle and thread4    ,illustration3    
,,fig4 #hj4    ,this is made from the   
earthenware support for a gas mantle4   

,take a  piece of cardboard and draw    
round the circle of the mantle support  
on it1 and cut it out4 ,then with a     
padding of tissue paper or  wadding and 
a piece of pretty material make a neat  
cushion1 using  the cut-out circle of   
cardboard as a foundation2 stitch or    
glue  this neatly on the under side and 
fix it on to the support4          ,a   
,,doll',s ,,stool ,,of ,,feathers       
,,materials ,,required3--     ,four or  
five quills from a chicken's wing1 some 
very fine pins1 a   little thread1      
scissors4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ha4 
,this is made of small quill feathers   
and is very pretty4 ,use  feathers which
 are large enough to hold a pin inside  
their hollow  tubes4 ,cut off a thick   
piece of quill for each of the four legs
  and entirely strip them of webbing4   
,cut and strip rather thinner  ones for 
the spars to support these1 and fix as  
in ,fig4 #gf1 using  very slender pins4 
,if the quills used for legs are strong 
enough1  the feathers for the sea may be

 pinned on also1 but if they are        
inclined to split1 those for the seat   
must be lashed on1 and  therefore must  
be cut so that they project at the ends 
beyond the  legs4 ,cut each of these    
like ,a in the diagram1 so that the     
webbing  is cut straight across at the  
end furthest from the point of the      
quill4 ,fix each of these four quills   
into place with the webbing  overlapping
 the sloping end of the quill in front  
of it4          ,a ,,porter',s          
,,handbarrow      ,,materials           
,,required3--     ,a wooden sweet box1 a
 fret saw and sharp penknife1 a reel1   
small   tacks1 upholsterer's nails4     
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hb4    ,this can 
be made of nice pieces of soft wood such
 as are used for  grocers' sweet-boxes  
or fruit boxes4 ,cut the two long sides 
with a  saw and bevel them off in a     
curve to form the handles--they should  
be six to eight inches long4 ,the       
crosspiece at the end should be  about  
three inches1 and also the two          

crossbars4 ,fasten the sides to  the end
 about the middle of the latter1 so that
 a piece projects  below the sides wide 
enough to support the wheels--these     
should  be made of a reel cut in half   
and fastened on with a large-headed     
nail4 ,smooth all down with coarse      
sandpaper4          ,a ,,crane          
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a wooden 
sweet box1 three large reels1 one small 
one1 tacks1   upholstery nails1 string1 
mucilage1 a fret saw1 a large coat hook4
    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hc4    ,this 
should also be made of a box of soft    
wood from the grocer4 ,the  semicircular
 sides should be about four inches long1
 where they  are fastened to the base2  
they may either be glued or nailed on to
  this4 ,the base should be about seven 
inches long and three inches  wide4     
,before fastening on the side-pieces    
bore a hole at the end of  each to      
insert the thick wire which turns the   
large reel used to  wind the cord1 and  
also set in the tacks which support the 

crane at  each side4 ,the sides of the  
crane should be about three quarters of 
an inch wide at the lower end1 and      
should taper to about half an  inch at  
the other end2 they should be about     
seven inches long4 ,near  the lower end 
use another smaller reel or a block of  
wood as a  stay to hold the sides of the
 crane2 it should be of such a size as  
to hold the ends of the crane firmly    
between the nails in the sides  of the  
base4 ,at the other end set in a very   
small reel1 with a  long slim nail1 so  
that it will easily turn on it4 ,now    
take a good  strong dressmaker's hook1  
such as is used for coats or mantles1   
fasten it to a length of strong string1 
and wind one end round the  large reel1 
setting the hook end over the end of the
 crane4          ,a ,,top               
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a large  
reel1 a skewer or penholder1 a fret saw1
 a penknife4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4   
#hd4    ,this is made of a large reel   
cut in half and the roller portion  cut 

away into a point with a penknife4 ,the 
pin is made of a wooden  skewer or      
penholder with the point projecting     
slightly beyond the  cut portion of the 
reel4 ,these are very good tops and spin
 very  steadily4          ,a ,,teetotum 
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a small  
block of soft wood1 an old penholder1 a 
sharp penknife1 a   gimlet4             
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #he4    ,this is  
made from a square block of wood cut    
sharply to a point  with a peg sunk well
 into a close-fitting hole4 ,each flat  
side of  the top has on it a letter or a
 number1 and the game is to spin it     
round1 and according to which letter or 
number falls upward each  player takes  
or makes so many counters to the pool4  
,the letters  generally used are--      
,ppay one1 ,nnothing1 ,ttake one1 ,wwin 
all4 ,beans or counters  are usually    
played for4          ,,bow ,,and ,,arrow
      ,,materials ,,required3--     ,a  
branch of pliable smooth wood1 strong   
twine1 a penknife1 two   goose quills4  

,illustration3 ,,figs4 #hf ,,and #hg4   
,take a smooth even branch of willow1   
cane1 or other pliable wood  about three
 quarters of an inch thick and about two
 feet or two and  a half feet long1 and 
round the smaller end cut a shallow     
groove  about one and a half inches     
wide1 and about half an inch from  the  
end4 ,about one inch from the thicker   
end cut a notch sloping  inwards towards
 the middle of the stick just deep      
enough to hold  firm a piece of strong  
string4 ,next bind round about four     
inches at  the middle of the stick with 
string1 laying the end of the string    
along the stick1 so that the binding    
will cover it all but three  inches4    
,bind the four inches very closely1 and 
tie the end of the  binding to the spare
 end of the string and knot it and cut  
away  the ends4 ,now bind over in the   
same way1 round the groove at the  end  
of the stick1 and knot the free end of  
the string to the spare  end under the  
binding1 and stretch the free end of the

 string very  taut1 so that the stick   
bends a little4 ,make a loop in the end 
of  the string which can be easily      
slipped in and out of the notch at  the 
other end of the bow4 ,when not in use  
keep the looped end loose  from the     
notch4    ,the arrows must be of very   
straight light sticks or thin bamboo1   
and must be scraped or sandpapered      
perfectly smooth4 ,at the point  cut a  
long slit1 and into it slip a long and  
very slender nail1 and  bind it round   
across the notch with strong linen      
thread4 ,you can  file off the head of  
the nail4 ,at the other end make a      
similar but  longer notch1 and into it  
slip a portion of a quill feather with  
one side of the webbing practically cut 
away4 ,arrange both pieces  of the      
quills so that they project the same    
distance at each side  from the wooden  
shaft4 ,bind round the arrow with linen 
thread both  above and below the quills1
 and at the extreme end deepen the      
mouth of the notch so that it makes a   

groove into which you can fit  the      
string of the bow4          ,a ,,dart   
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a        
six-inch stick of soft wood1 a long     
nail1 pincers1 a file1 a   piece of     
stiff writing paper1 a penknife or fret 
saw4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hh4      
,this dart is made of a piece of soft   
wood about six inches long1  and into   
the sharpened end a slim long nail is   
driven2 the head may  be nipped or filed
 off so that the point will stick into  
the ground  or into a target4 ,across   
the other end cut or saw two notches at 
right angles1 for about one inch down1  
and fit into these a square  of paper   
folded neatly into diagonals and        
diameters--this makes  the feathering of
 the dart4 ,smooth the dart with        
sandpaper4          ,a ,,crossbow       
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a        
bow-stick of pliable wood1 strong       
string1 a smooth lath of thin   wood1 a 
fret saw1 an awl1 a penknife1 a long    
nail4    ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #hi     

,,and #ij4    ,this bow is made somewhat
 more elaborately than in ,figure #hf1  
and  shoots off pebbles or bullets4 ,the
 bow itself must be tapered  evenly     
towards either end1 and in the middle it
 must be bevelled  flat for about two   
and a half inches at one side1 and a    
slight  groove run right round the stick
 at either end of the bevelled  portion4
 ,next take a thin lath or flat thin    
piece of wood1 a  quarter of an inch    
thick and rather less than the length of
 the  bow4 ,taper it from two and a half
 inches wide at one end to one  and a   
half at the other1 and lay the broad end
 across the flattened  portion of the   
bow with about one inch projecting4     
,mark on the  crosspiece the width of   
the bow-stick and cut into each side of 
the crosspiece a deep sharp nick1       
leaving about one inch between  each    
opposite set of nicks4 ,now draw your   
bow to the full extent of  its curve    
without running the risk of breaking it1
 and mark on the  crosspiece where the  

bowstring crosses it when the bow is    
drawn1  and here cut a narrow slot right
 through the crosspiece4 ,into this     
insert a trigger as in ,figure #ij4 ,the
 trigger must be of wood and  should    
curve at one or both ends1 and should be
 pinned through  into its slot with a   
long thin nail1 in such a position that 
the  curved end will broad end across   
the flattened portion of full1  and will
 lie well into the slot when the string 
is released4 ,now  bind the crosspiece  
on to the side of the bow by strings    
fitting  tightly into the four nicks and
 running round the grooves round the    
bow-stick4 ,this will leave the         
crosspiece free of any bindings  which  
might interfere with the bullet or      
quarrel as it leaves the  bow4          
,a ,,catapult      ,,materials          
,,required3--     ,a forked branch1     
strong round elastic1 a scrap of        
leather1 fine   string1 penknife1       
scissors4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ia4 
,take a firm forked branch about three  

quarters of an inch thick1  or a little 
less1 and trim the two forks evenly1 and
 run a groove  about three quarters of  
an inch wide round each1 near the end4  
,into  these bind very tightly two      
pieces of very strong round elastic     
about five inches long4 ,next take a    
firm piece of leather about  one inch   
wide and two inches long1 trim it away  
at the corners1  and make a hole at each
 end into which insert the free ends of 
the  elastic1 turning them back on      
themselves and binding firmly4 ,it may  
be well to mention that there are very  
strict police regulations  about        
shooting with bows and catapults1 and   
those who use them must  only do so away
 from houses or traffic4          ,a    
,,target      ,,materials ,,required3-- 
,a bandbox1 thin paper1 string1         
scissors1 ink1 and paintbrush4          
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ib4    ,a very   
simple target may be made by using a    
round bandbox and  stretching over its  
open mouth a piece of newspaper1 which  

may be  kept in place by slipping over  
it the rim taken off the lid4 ,mark     
roughly on this the ,bull's ,eye in ink1
 and hang up the box by  means of loops 
of string through the side4 ,the        
newspaper can be  renewed as often as is
 necessary4 ,a square box will do just  
as well4          ,a ,,raft             
,,materials ,,required3--     ,a        
quantity of reeds or thin straight      
twigs1 a piece of cork1   strong string4
    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ic4    ,this 
is made of dry reeds or any other light 
straight  sticks--bamboo is good4 ,it   
may be made of any size and may even be 
made large enough to carry one or more  
persons1 if the size and  strength of   
the branches and lashings is duly       
proportioned1 but for  a toy reeds will 
do nicely4 ,lay down first the crossbar 
beneath the  raft and then space out the
 raft itself to fit it1 leaving a little
  space between each reed4 ,take a      
strong thin string and fasten it  with a
 tight loop over the end of the first   

reed1 turn it down and  round the lower 
cross-spar1 and then up and around the  
upper one1  and lay in the next reed1   
and so on4 ,when the first row of       
lashings  is done lay on the second pair
 of crossbars1 and if there is any      
difficulty about lashing the string a   
large darning-needle may help  you1 but 
if the lashing is done in the right     
direction this is not  needful4 ,if a   
mast is wanted1 a reel1 or a cork with a
 hole in it1  may be lashed down to the 
raft as in the diagram1 and the mast can
  be set firmly into this4          ,a  
,,canoe      ,,materials ,,required3--  
,some cheap cloth or shelving1 some     
basketry cane1 soft string or   fine    
tape1 scissors1 penknife1 a large strong
 needle4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #id4  
,the best material for this is thin     
shelving cloth and it must be  made at  
least twelve inches long4 ,double your  
shelving cloth1 and  outline on it the  
pattern of the side of the canoe1 which 
should  be cut in brown paper2 this must

 be quite straight at the upper  sides1 
not curving as it appears in the        
drawing4 ,lay the paper  pattern with   
the line of the bottom of the canoe at  
the fold of  the oilcloth4 ,now take two
 long pieces of cane1 such as is used   
for basket-work1 and with a large       
needle1 and very thick thread1  lash    
each length of cane along the outsides  
of the boat from end  to end1 keeping   
the shiny side of the cloth outwards4 ,a
 short  thick tapestry needle is best1  
and the lashing must be steady and      
even1 but if it is difficult to stitch  
through the cloth an awl or  pricker can
 be used to make the holes before       
beginning to stitch4  ,now take another 
piece of cane and bend about one inch at
 one end  and lash this bent portion to 
the side of the boat about one-third  of
 the way along the gunwale where it is  
already lashed1 and lash  it over firmly
 to this on the inside of the boat4     
,bend the cane now  across to the       
opposite side of the canoe and meantime 

tie tightly  together the ends of the   
cane that is lashed from end to end of  
the  boat1 and set in this crosspiece so
 that it keeps the two sides  of the    
boat apart at the right angle4 ,fix in  
the second crosspiece  likewise1 and    
then lash the open ends of the boat     
firmly together4  ,the canoe should be  
rather wide and shallow1 or it will be  
inclined  to lie on its side unless     
ballast is added by weighting it at the 
bottom4 ,if weight is needed the best   
thing for this sort of boat  is one or  
two of the heavy lead buttons to be had 
at a tailor's  for weighting garments2  
they can be lashed on with strong thread
  through the holes4 ,quite large canoes
 can be made in this way1  and if a     
tight decking of thin waterproof        
material be stretched  across at both   
ends from the crosspiece it makes a     
vessel almost  identical with the       
,eskimo kayak which used to be used     
round the  coasts not so very long ago4 
,a ,,ship      ,,materials ,,required3--

     ,a block of soft wood ten or twelve
 inches long1 about three inches   wide 
and two inches deep1 nine post cards1   
three skewers or old   wooden           
knitting-pins1 a cork1 a piece of heavy 
wire1 dressmakers'   eyelets1 some small
 staples1 fine string1 a gimlet1 a sharp
   penknife1 small tacks1 scissors1     
mucilage4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ie4 
,this is the simplest sort of a ship to 
model in wood2 all wooden  boats require
 carefulness in their modelling and     
balance4 ,this can  be made from six to 
twelve inches long1 and in soft wood4   
,let your  block of wood be about four  
times its width1 roughly speaking4 ,rule
  a line up to center of your block to  
mark the keel and cut away  from this   
with a very sharp knife to the curving  
outlines of the  deck which must be     
drawn on the top side of the block4 ,it 
would be  impossible1 in the space      
allowed for diagrams1 to give details   
for  modelling the body of the boat1 but
 any boy can shape it if he is  careful 

and observes1 from pictures or actual   
boats or models1 how  to do it4 ,when   
the body of the vessel is shaped and    
smoothed down  with a file and          
sandpaper1 take a piece of heavy thick  
wire1 and  bend it at either end and    
sharpen the ends into points with a file
  and hammer it into the keel2 or1 if   
preferred1 a deep groove may be  cut    
with a gouge and a strip of lead        
inserted4 ,the rudder suggested  here   
can be made either of wood1 or of a     
double piece of tin with a  piece of    
thick wire hammered in at the fold and  
left with one end  projecting1 so that  
it fits through a hole in the stem and  
forms a  tiller4 ,the rudder must have a
 hole pierced at the lower corner1  and 
into this fix a small staple which must 
work loosely in its  hole1 and after the
 rudder is fixed in position this staple
 must be  hammered into the stern of the
 boat4 ,figure #ie ,a shows the stern   
end with rudder fixed into place4 ,next 
cut a bowsprit of wood and  with two    

staples fix it firmly on to the deck4   
,take three pieces of  cork or three    
half reels1 and glue or nail them to the
 deck--this  will make a good hold for  
the masts4 ,then along each side of the 
boat at intervals fasten on a strong    
dressmaker's eye 7for a  hook7 with its 
two small loops bent so that they       
overlap2 the  nail can be set through   
this4 ,these eyelets are meant to hold  
the  stays which keep the masts steady4 
,now take nine postcards1 and  about    
half an inch from the edge in the middle
 of each long side  cut neatly a hole   
big enough to slip your masts through1  
with a  strong needle1 a piece of strong
 thin string or stout linen thread1     
knotting it with a large knot at the    
end4 ,lay the post cards flat  so that  
they just touch and set the mast through
 the holes--a long  wooden knitting-pin 
makes a capital mast--and the knob can  
be left  on to finish it at the top4    
,about one inch or more above the top   
sails make a slight groove round the    

mast1 and round this bind  tightly the  
threads laced through the cards1        
tightened so that each  card bends a    
little2 carry down these threads or     
stays now to the  eyelets and fasten    
them firmly4 ,take another stay to the  
bowsprit  and lash it down and carry it 
on to meet the front of the keel1 and   
fasten it in with a tiny tack or a pin4 
,gum on small paper flags to  the masts4
 ,this makes quite a good little sailing
 ship and it is  not difficult to make4 
,a ,,propeller      ,,materials         
,,required3--     ,a slip of thin wood1 
a small strip of tin1 strong round      
elastic1   strong tin cutters1 a        
penknife or fret saw1 an awl4           
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #if4    ,this is a
 little propeller which with certain    
alterations can be  fixed to any boat4  
,take a piece of tin1 as in ,figure ,a1 
and pierce it with two holes  and file  
them quite smooth1 and slightly bend    
either end left and  right from the     
holes4 ,now take a piece of thin wood   

cut as in the  diagram1 with a long wide
 slot1 so that it forms a sort of fork1 
and with screws or tacks hammer this on 
to the stern of your vessel  at the two 
holes1 so that it projects with the     
whole fork clear  of the vessel4 ,now   
thread strong elastic through the holes 
in the  tin blades of the propeller with
 the ends knotted firmly1 making  a     
double loop1 each end looping over the  
respective forks4 ,twist  this tightly  
round on the same principle as in the   
making of the  wishbone clapper1 and    
when the twist is released it will      
propel  your boat a considerable        
distance either backwards or forwards   
according to the direction the thread is
 twisted4          ,a ,,doll            
,,materials ,,required3--     ,an old   
knitted stocking or pair of cotton      
gloves1 two   shoe-buttons1 strong      
thread1 some brown or black mending     
yarn1   tissue paper1 wadding1 scissors1
 darning-needle4    ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #ig4    ,this doll is made of old

 stockings or old knitted or woven      
gloves4  ,if only black stockings can be
 got it can be a nigger doll1 or it  can
 have its face alone made of            
light-colored glove4 ,the stuffing  must
 be of tissue paper roughly shaped to   
the right size and  wrapped round with  
some yarn to keep it shapely1 or this   
may be  again wrapped round with a layer
 of cotton wadding4 ,shape the arms  and
 legs separately1 and fasten over the   
knitted covering very  neatly with big1 
but firm1 stitches4 ,stitch a line right
 through at  the wrists and flatten out 
the hands1 and make lines of stitching  
to mark the fingers and the line of the 
toes3 make a sort of dart  where the leg
 bends at the ankle4    ,for the        
head--put an extra wad of soft padding  
under the face  portion so that it is   
very soft and bulgy1 and stitch firmly  
into  this two shoe-buttons for eyes4   
,take a large darning-needle and  take  
your stitches right through the head to 
the back2 use very  strong doubled linen

 thread4 ,the knitted covering used for 
the head  may be all gathered into the  
back and simply flattened roughly into  
place with big stitches1 as you will    
cover it with hair later on4  ,now take 
your needle through again and make the  
two tiny stitches  for the nostrils1 and
 pull these stitches back very tight    
also4  ,two more stitches form the mouth
 with a wee one below to make a  hollow 
below the lips4 ,now firmly stitch the  
head into place1 and  with brown or     
black knitting or mending yarn carefully
 make large  stitches radiating from the
 crown of the head to the forehead3 do  
not pull these tight1 and use double    
wool if you like4 ,make long  loose     
loops of wool all round the back of the 
head and above them  stitch as before   
into the crown4 ,this makes a really    
very good doll  if it is carefully made1
 and not too hurriedly done4          ,a
 ,,brownie      ,,materials             
,,required3--     ,a pair of old kid or 
leather gloves1 tissue paper1 flat      

milliner's   wire1 strong thread of the 
color of the gloves1 stamp-paper1 ink   
or water color paint1 scissors1 strong  
needle4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ih4   
,this is a very jolly little fellow1 and
 he is made of old kid  gloves4 ,his    
head and body are stuffed with tissue   
paper4 ,the head  is just wrapped with a
 square piece cut from the wrist of the 
glove neatly gathered in at each side   
and tightly tied4 ,the loose  ends must 
then have each one corner trimmed off in
 a sloping line  towards the neck2 this 
forms his flappy pointed ears4 ,now get 
two  tiny rounds of gummed stamp-paper  
and ink on each an eyeball1 only        
partially covering the paper1 and gum   
these on for the eyes1 and  with pen or 
paintbrush put in his mouth and nose4   
,you can give him  a very woeful        
expression if you make his mouth turn   
down4 ,cover his  body with the back of 
the gloves1 so that the three points or 
rows of stitching make a trimming for   
his jacket4 ,the legs and arms  are made

 of slips of the kid stitched carefully 
over the flat wire  used by milliners4  
,the ends of the strips are left free   
and cut to  a pointed flap to form feet 
and hands4 ,stitch limbs and head very  
firmly into place and bend at elbows and
 knees4 ,this ,brownie can  be made to  
sit down and take many different        
positions2 he is a very  lifelike little
 doll4 ,you can also make him a wee     
nightcap out of a  knitted glove and put
 a feather in it1 and dress him with a  
little  cloak4          ,,kites         
,,materials ,,required3--     ,thin     
straight sticks of canes1 strong paper  
or thin cotton   material1 strong thin  
string1 strong paste1 large-eyed needle4
    ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #ii ,,to     
#aja4    ,these are several of the      
commoner and easier kites to make4 ,they
  are usually made of paper pasted over 
the frame1 but it is in  all cases      
better if children will take the trouble
 to make their  kites of thin cotton    
material and tack or baste it into place

 with  large neat stitches2 this really 
takes very little more time than        
pasting4 ,the frames in every case      
should be of the lightest and           
straightest sticks possible to find4    
,you can sometimes get very  good ones  
which are used in strengthening         
cardboard boxes1 or if  you do not mind 
spending a few cents the narrow slips of
 wood used  in making picture-frames are
 the very thing and any picture-framer  
can supply them4    ,perhaps the most   
usual kite is that shown in ,figure #ii4
 ,the two  cross-sticks are first firmly
 lashed in position and the ends        
notched and tightly fixed in place with 
tight stays of string4  ,now cut your   
paper or cloth at least two inches wider
 all round  than the outline of your    
framework1 cutting away the angles at   
the  corners1 so that you have a neat   
flap to turn over all round4 ,never  use
 gum or mucilage for a kite1 good strong
 paste is best1 if it is  to be made of 
paper4 ,now at the three points where   

your balances  are to be attached to the
 kite1 paste on a little square patch of
  cloth so that the string or balance as
 it is called does not  tear the fabric 
or paper1 and fasten the ends of your   
two strings  through the two upper      
patches and knot it firmly round your   
wooden  framework4 ,the loose ends of   
your balances must now be run through   
the third patch and fastened to the     
vertical spar of the frame4 ,the  string
 of the kite is fastened round these    
balances by a slipknot4  ,next add the  
tail1 which needs careful adjustment to 
the weight of  the kite2 it can be      
weighted with rolls of paper at         
intervals1 or  little bundles of fresh  
grass4 ,scottish boys often weight it at
 the  end with a divot which is a little
 piece of actual turf1 both  grass and  
root1 all together4    ,figures #ajj and
 #ajd are another form of kite most     
commonly used  in ,scotland4 ,this needs
 only one straight spar of wood1 and the
  curved bow at the top can be made of  

light cane1 such as is used  for        
basket-making2 or what is very good1 if 
enough can be got1 is  a length of flat 
steel such as is used in lady's corsets4
 ,fasten  the bow to the spar by lashing
 it into a notch or groove at the  top  
and bend it evenly and fasten it firmly 
by stays of string as  in ,figure #ajd1 
both across and to the end of the spar4 
,now lay on  to your paper or cotton    
material and cut it out as before in    
,figure  #ajj1 with a good turnover to  
paste or stitch down1 and add the       
patches where the balances are attached4
 ,these kites look very gay  if a tassel
 of colored paper or wool is added at   
each end of the  bow4    ,figure #aja is
 a very good kite to make if a really   
large one is  wanted4 ,the two long     
cross-spars of wood must be notched to  
fit  each other about one-third of their
 length from the top of the  kite1 and  
stays of string must be so arranged that
 they spread  about twice as wide at the
 bottom as they do at the top4 ,this    

kite must have four patches to insert   
its balances through and  the slipknot  
of the kite-string is fixed around both4
 ,another  balance should be fixed from 
the lower corners of the kite from      
which the tail is hung4 ,this is a very 
steady kite4    ,figure #ajb--;a box    
kite4    ,this is a comparatively modern
 form of kite and looks very            
complicated4 ,it is really less so than 
it looks4 ,take two long  narrow strips 
of thin cotton material about eight     
inches wide and  four and a half feet   
long 7this is for a kite about thirty   
inches  long74 ,have four straight thin 
spars of wood about thirty inches  long1
 and after joining the two ends of your 
strips of cloth  together make at       
intervals a narrow casing into which    
insert  the ends of your spars4 ,you can
 either place the casings at equal      
distances on your material1 or you can  
arrange it so that the open  ends of    
your kite form oblongs4 ,now have four  
flat spars of thin  wood measured to    

make diagonals at each box end of your  
kite1 and  bore a tiny hole in the      
middle of each to insert a pin when the 
kite is stretched4 ,at the ends of these
 diagonals cut a rectangular  notch to  
hold the spars apart1 tie the           
kite-string considerably  nearer one end
 of the kite than the other1 or you can 
attach a  balance and fix on the        
kite-string by a slipknot4 ,this kite   
needs  no tail1 and can be folded and   
rolled away by slipping out the         
diagonal spars4    ,figure #ajc--;a     
round box kite4    ,illustration3       
,,figs4 #ajb ,,and #ajc4    ,this can be
 made of very strong brown paper pasted 
so as to form  a wide tube1 like a large
 paper bag with the bottom cut out4     
,only  two spars are needed4 ,inside the
 paper tubes arrange near each edge  a  
circle of cane1 as is used in           
basket-work or for stretching out  the  
crown of a cap4 ,set this into place and
 lace through the paper  a strong string
 and lash the cane through to the spar4 

,this should  hold quite steady if it is
 well done1 but it can1 of course1 have 
a third straight spar if necessary4     
,attach the string as in the  other box 
kite4    ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #ajd    
,,to #ajg4    ,figures #aje1 #ajf1      
#ajg--;a plane kite4    ,this is a most 
beautiful and graceful kite and combines
 the box  kite and the older varieties4 
,the box portion is made with casings   
run into the cotton material at equal   
intervals so as to form a  three-sided  
box4 ,fix in your three spars1 all equal
 in size1 and  along each side fix a    
plane1 or wing1 of thin cotton material2
 it  can be of another color and looks  
very gay if this is done4 ,make  a      
little bag or pocket at the outer corner
 of each wing1 and into  this insert the
 ends of the fourth spar1 so that the   
latter may be  slipped out and the kite 
folded up4 ,the string should be        
attached  near the nose of the kite4 ,it
 needs no tail4          ,a ,,monkey    
,,on ,a ,,stick      ,,materials        

,,required3--     ,some thin three-ply  
wood1 two long knitting-pins1 two small 
reels1   a piece of hat wire1 some small
 staples1 pliers1 an awl1 a fret   saw1 
water color paints and brushes1 mending 
wool4    ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajh4    
,draw your monkey carefully on the      
three-ply wood1 the body and  limbs all 
separate1 and a thin stump on to which  
the tail must be  fastened4 ,with the   
awl pierce tiny holes through arms1     
body1 and  legs1 where they are         
attached1 and insert a piece of wire1   
and with  the pliers turn a small close 
knot in it on each side to prevent it   
coming out4 ,small wire paper clips will
 do instead if they can be  got4 ,now   
saw off the rims of your two reels--they
 must be the same  size--and into one of
 your reels fasten two staples over the 
pin  and into the reel1 so that they    
hold the pin very tightly1 catching  the
 pin just at one end4 ,with another     
staple through each hand  fasten the    
arms of your monkey to this reel1 and   

slip the other  reel round the same     
knitting-pin and extend your monkey to  
its  fullest length1 and now fix the    
other knitting-pin to the second  reel  
so that its point projects a little way 
through the first  reel4 ,keeping the   
monkey stretched to its fullest length  
fasten his  feet with staples to the    
second reel1 and be sure that the limbs 
work quite loosely in these staples4    
,now with mending yarn make a  tassel   
and fasten it to the end of your hat    
wire1 and wrap the wire  all the way up 
with it almost to the end4 ,then proceed
 to lash the  wire to the stump of the  
tail and bend the tail in a nice curve2 
this will vibrate when your monkey is   
worked up and down4          ,a         
,,dancing ,,lady      ,,materials       
,,required3--     ,strong heavy white   
cardboard or thin wood1 sharp knife or  
fret   saw1 crinkled paper1 water color 
paints1 a tiny portion of a   quill1 a  
tiny roll of tin or lead foil1 small    
fine pins or wire1   a small piece of   

narrow ribbon1 a little writing paper1  
mucilage1   string1 scissors1 pliers4   
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aji4    ,this    
dainty little figure can be made to     
dance along a double  string and can be 
very pretty4 ,cut out the body and legs 
and arms  all separately2 they may be   
drawn on white paper1 or cut out  and   
pasted on to the cardboard4 ,if you find
 it difficult to make  a pretty face1 a 
suitable one may be cut from some       
picture post  card and pasted on4 ,the  
arms and legs must be fastened on to the
  body with a little wire which should  
be run through a tiny bead  and twisted 
so that it does not come out4 ,roll the 
lead foil into  a little long weight and
 stitch one down to the lower portion of
  the body both at the back and front4  
,the crinkled paper skirt must  be      
gathered on a draw-thread with a needle 
and tied evenly and  tightly round the  
waist and fastened neatly with a little 
ribbon  sash4 ,through the stomach of   
the little figure insert a tiny length  

of the quill of a feather and glue it   
into place2 let it project  towards the 
back more than the front4 ,through this 
quill run your  string doubled so that  
there is a long loop both back and front
 and  be sure that the string works     
easily through the quill4 ,a portion  of
 a tiny reel will do instead of a quill 
if it is glued on to the  back4 ,the    
object of the quill or reel is to form a
 tube1 so that  the figure will slip    
along this when the string is slackened1
  but that it will hold firm whenever   
the string is tightened4 ,the  weights  
must be heavy enough to make the figure 
balance and run  downwards as the string
 is sloped4 ,a pair of butterfly wings  
can  be cut out of writing paper and    
painted and fastened to the back4  ,a   
little garland of everlasting flowers or
 moss or beads can be  fastened to the  
hands if you wish to do so4          ,a 
,,model ,,aeroplane      ,,materials    
,,required3--     ,soft white wood1     
laundry pins1 thin cardboard1 a tiny    

piece of   mica1 mucilage4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aaj4    ,this    
model was made by a boy of eleven and is
 most beautifully  proportioned and put 
together4 ,the body and wings and floats
 and  little boats are all made of the  
white wood1 well smoothed with          
sandpaper2 the steering-gear is of      
cardboard4 ,the propeller is  made of   
mahogany and the tiny wind-screens of   
semicircles of mica4  ,all is put       
together with laundry pins4 ,the        
ailerons on the upper  planes are held  
by strips of narrow tape4          ,a   
,,farmyard      ,such toys as this can  
only be suggested very briefly1 but     
children  with any common sense and     
imagination can make most elaborate and 
delightful collections4                 
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aaa4    ,the box 
used for the byre or stable is only one 
of many more  elaborate buildings that  
can be made4 ,the dwelling house of     
larger  boxes1 the barns1 the haystacks1
 the pigsty1 the chicken coop1  troughs1

 and such things can all be made of     
larger or smaller  boxes4 ,buildings can
 be thatched with straw1 rushes1 hay2 or
  corrugated paper may be put on the    
roof4 ,the palings here are made  of    
matches set into posts of wooden pegs1  
much like those used by  gardeners to   
label plants4 ,trees and flowering      
plants can be made  by getting small    
bushy bare twigs and wrapping their     
branches with  moss1 or fastening on    
everlasting flowers of gay dyed colors4 
,old  sponges may be dyed green and cut 
up and fixed in the branches4 ,a  reel  
sawed in two makes a good plant pot for 
these4    ,the sheep illustrated here is
 made of a cork1 with legs of matches4  
,its head is a tiny bean fixed to the   
cork with a pin1 both neck and  body are
 wrapped in cotton wool1 and it is      
neatly fastened on with  white mending  
yarn4 ,the lamb is made of a large bean 
and a small  one1 with legs of pins2 the
 beans must be soaked before setting in 
the pins4 ,noah's ark animals can be    

used to increase the live stock  of the 
farm4 ,fields can be made of green      
crinkled paper1 and a  piece of glass or
 a tiny mirror can be used to make a    
pond4 ,carts1  barrows1 and farm        
implements can be made of all sorts of  
things1  and clever children can really 
make wonderful farms4 ,windmills and    
other simple machines can be introduced 
also4          ,a ,,doll',s ,,house     
,these can be made of bandboxes or      
orange-boxes and can be either  very    
simple or as elaborate as you please4   
,if cardboard boxes are  used1 ,figure  
#aac shows how it can most easily be    
arranged to give  the pitch of the roof4
 ,one story may be piled on another so  
that  the house can be enlarged at will4
 ,doors and windows are easily  cut in  
the cardboard boxes4 ,the windows can   
also be glazed if you  get a few rolls  
of cinematograph film and fit and paste 
it on1  but children must be warned that
 this is very inflammable and it  is    
dangerous to bring it near the fire or  

gas4 ,the inside of the  rooms may be   
papered1 and on the walls little        
pictures may be  pasted4 ,the           
illustrated catalogues from furniture   
shops can often  be cut up1 and the     
diagrams of doors1 etc41 cut out and    
pasted on  the doors of your house4     
,figure #aab shows a sitting-room and a 
little shop or kitchen4 ,in the latter  
the counter and dresser are  made of    
matchboxes4 ,the shelves are of strips  
of cardboard with  uprights of cane1    
wire1 or knitting-needles4 ,the         
fireplace in the  sitting-room can be   
made of a lid of a cardboard box        
stitched to  the wall1 and in it another
 box 7a matchbox1 for instance7 can be  
set to make the grate4 ,a good table can
 be made as in ,figure #aad1  which is  
made by using a lid of a small box1 and 
to the inside of  its corners glueing   
the legs1 and then the larger top of    
thick  cardboard can be fixed on with   
mucilage4 ,the little shields for  the  
corks of bottles1 made of pleated lead  

foil1 make very pretty  pots and kitchen
 vessels in such little houses4 ,rugs   
can be woven  of wool and string1 and   
cushions1 etc41 to furnish the place4   
,but  there is no end to the things a   
child can make for a doll's house  if   
imagination is encouraged to work the   
hands4    ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #aab   
,,to #aad4    ,other ,community ,toys   
can be made--railway stations1 signals1 
and signal-boxes are very popular2 a    
market place with its little  tented    
stalls is charming4 ,the houses we see  
in pictures of foreign  lands give great
 interest1 and many are so easy to make 
that it  is quite possible to illustrate
 the history of home building by  means 
of a series of toy houses4 ,the darker  
side of life has even  invaded our      
nurseries1 and they too have shown the  
games of the  trench and the guns3 and  
it will be good to plan in our playwork 
now for the rebuilding of the world in  
the ways of peace1 for it  is these     
children of ours who must lead the world

 back or forward1  for better or for    
worse4 ,all the world is in their hands1
 though  the hands may not yet be strong
 for more than the making of toys4  ,we 
older children do but play other games  
with more serious intent1  yet all the  
same the difference between the game and
 the business  is but a difference of   
degree4      ,,the ,,end                
,,transcriber',s ,,note    -,plain print
 and punctuation errors fixed4