,,manual ,,of ,,taxidermy ,a ,complete ,guide ,,in ,,collecting ,,and ,,preserving ,,birds ,,and ,,mammals ,,by ,c4 ,j4 ,,maynard ,,illustrated ,,boston ,s4 ,e4 ,,cassino ,,and ,,company #ahhc ,copyright1 ,,by ,s4 ,e4 ,,cassino ,,co4 #ahhc4 ,,electrotyped4 ,,boston ,,stereotype ,,foundry1 ,,no4 #d ,,pearl ,,street4 ,,introduction4 ,twenty-five or thirty years ago amateur collectors of birds were rare2 in fact1 excepting in the immediate vicinity of large cities1 individuals who spent their leisure time in gathering birds for the sole purpose of study1 were so seldom met with that1 when one did occur1 his occupation was so unusual as to excite the comments of his neighbors1 and he became famous for miles around as highly eccentric4 ,such a man was regarded as harmless1 but as just a little cracked1 and the lower classes gazed at him with open-mouthed wonder as he pursued his avocations2 while the more educated of his fellows regarded him with a kind of placid contempt4 ,i am speaking now of the days when the ornithology of ,america was1 so to speak1 in obscurity2 for the brilliant meteor-light of the ,wilsonian and ,audubonian period had passed1 and the great public quickly forgot that the birds and their ways had ever been first in the minds of any one4 ,to be sure1 men like ,cassin1 ,lawrence1 ,baird1 and ,bryant were constantly writing of birds1 but they did it in a quiet1 scientific way1 which did not reach the general public4 ,possibly the political troubles in which our country was involved had something to do with the great ornithological depression which fell upon the popular mind4 ,strange as it may appear1 however1 for a period of thirty years after the completion of ,audubon's great work1 not a general popular work of any kind was written on birds in ,america4 ,then appeared ,samuels' ,birds of ,new ,england1 published in #ahfg1 a work which apparently did much toward turning the popular tide in favor of ornithological study1 for from that time we can perceive a general awakening4 ,not only did the newspapers and magazines teem with articles on birds1 but in the five succeeding years we find three important works on ,american ornithology announced as about to appear3 ,baird1 ,brewer1 and ,ridgeway's ,history of ,american ,birds1 of which three volumes have appeared1 published in #ahgd2 ,maynard's ,birds of ,florida1 issued in parts1 but afterwards merged into the ,birds of ,eastern ,north ,america1 completed in #ahhb1 and ,coues' ,key1 published in #ahgb4 ,other works quickly followed1 for now the popular ornithological tide was setting strongly towards the flood1 and it has ever since been rushing on and gathering recruits as it goes1 until the tidal wave of popular favor for ornithological pursuits has reached from shore to shore across our great continent2 and where there were once only a few solitary devotees to this grand science1 we can number thousands1 and still they come2 so that high-water mark is not yet reached1 while to all appearances this tidal-wave will agitate the coming generation more strongly than it does the present4 ,of all the vast numbers interested in the study of bird life1 there are few who do not gather specimens4 ,years ago1 in the beginning of the study1 when the solitary naturalist had no one to sympathize with him in his pursuits1 birds' skins were usually made in what we would now consider a shocking manner4 ,within the last fifteen years1 however1 since ornithologists have become more numerous1 and the opportunities of comparison of workmanship in preserving specimens has been facilitated1 great improvements are seen4 ,slovenly prepared collections are now far from desirable2 in fact1 even rare specimens lose much of their value when poorly made up4 ,when there are enough experienced collectors in one locality to compare notes as to the various improvements each has made in skin-making and mounting birds1 one aids the other2 but there is always a multitude of beginners who live in isolated localities and who do not number experienced collectors among their friends1 and who consequently require the aid of written instructions4 ,hence the need of books to teach them4 ,this little work1 then1 is intended to meet the wants of amateur ornithological collectors1 wherever it may find them1 for it is written by one who has at least had the advantage of a very wide experience in collecting skins1 making and mounting4 ,he has also had the advantage of comparing his methods with those of many excellent amateurs and professional collectors throughout the country2 and if he has not conferred any benefits on them1 he has at least gained much useful information1 and the results of all this are now laid before the reader4 ,the art of taxidermy is very ancient1 and doubtless had its origin among the very early races of man1 who not only removed the skins of birds and mammals for clothing1 but also for ornaments4 ,birds and mammals were also frequently regarded as objects of worship1 and consequently preserved after death1 as among the ancient ,egyptians1 who embalmed entire birds and mammals that were considered sacred4 ,from the rude methods of preserving skins1 doubtless1 arose the idea of mounting1 or placing the skins in lifelike attitudes4 ,the first objects selected for this purpose were1 of course1 birds and mammals of singular forms or brilliant colors1 as objects of curiosity4 ,later specimens would have been preserved for ornamental purposes1 but it is probable that it was not until the seventeenth century that either birds or mammals were collected with any idea of their scientific value4 ,specimens either mounted or in skins must have been rudely preserved at first1 but1 like all other branches of art and science1 when people began to understand the value of well-made specimens when compared with those poorly done1 workmen who became skilled in their art appeared and turned out good work4 ,the art of making good skins1 however1 never was understood in this country1 at least until within the last fifteen or twenty years1 and even now it is rare to find good workmen who can make skins well and rapidly4 ,as is natural1 many methods have been practiced to insure lifelike attitudes in birds and other objects of natural history4 ,a good opportunity of studying the various schools of mounting may be seen among the specimens of a large museum1 where material is gathered from various localities throughout the world4 ,i have seen birds filled with many varieties of material1 from cotton to plaster1 and have even seen cases where the skin is drawn over a block of wood carved to imitate the body removed4 ,as a rule1 ,i prefer the soft body filling1 where all the wires are fastened together in the centre of the inside of the skin1 and cotton1 or some similar elastic material1 filled in around it4 ,this method is1 however1 very difficult to learn1 and1 unless one has had a large experience in handling birds1 will not give satisfactory results4 ,i have therefore recommended the hard body method1 as given in the text1 as being the best1 as it is more easily learned and always gives the best results in the hands of amateurs4 ,in skin-making1 although ,i have given two methods1 making in the form and wrapping1 ,i prefer the latter1 as being by far the best1 although it is not as easy to learn4 ,mounting mammals and reptiles and making their skins also varies as given by different individuals1 but ,i have given the method by which ,i have found1 by experience1 amateurs succeed the best4 ,some may consider the information given in the following pages1 too meagre for practical purposes1 but ,i have purposely avoided giving lengthy instructions1 considering a few well-worded sentences much better1 as expressing much more clearly the ideas ,i wish to convey4 ,in short1 the reader has the condensed results of my extended experience1 and if he will follow with care and patience the instructions herein given1 ,i am sure that he will obtain satisfactory results from his labor4 ,i have endeavored to inculcate the idea in the following pages that he who wishes to be a successful taxidermist cannot accomplish his end without the utmost care2 he must exercise patience and perseverance to the extreme2 difficulties will arise1 but he must overcome them by severe application to the study of his art1 and1 as years pass by1 experience will teach him much that he never knew before4 ,i have been assured many times1 by men who are now skilful workmen1 that their first ideas of preserving specimens were divined from my ,naturalist's ,guide4 ,thus ,i trust the present little work may aid others who are entering the fairy land of science1 to prepare lasting mementoes gathered by the way4 ,c4 ,j4 ,,maynard4 ,,boston1 ,,mass4 ,,table ,,of ,,contents4 ,,page ,,explanation ,,of ,,plates ,,introduction ,,part ,i4--,,birds4 ,,chapter ,i4--,,collecting #a ,section ,i4 ,trapping1 etc4 ,section ,,ii4 ,shooting4 ,section ,,iii4 ,procuring ,birds4 ,section ,,iv4 ,care of ,specimens4 ,,chapter ,,ii4--,,skinning ,,birds #cc ,section ,i4 ,ordinary ,method4 ,section ,,ii4 ,exceptions to the usual ,method of ,skinning4 ,section ,,iii4 ,ascertaining the ,sex of ,birds4 ,section ,,iv4 ,preserving ,skins4 ,section ,v4 ,other ,methods of ,preserving ,skins4 ,,chapter ,,iii4--,,making ,,skins #di ,section ,i4 ,cleaning ,feathers4 ,section ,,ii4 ,making ,skins of ,small ,birds4 ,section ,,iii4 ,making ,skins of ,long-necked ,birds4 ,section ,,iv3 ,making ,skins of ,herons1 ,ibises1 etc4 ,section ,v4 ,hawks1 ,owls1 ,eagles1 ,vultures1 etc4 ,section ,,vi4 ,labelling ,specimens4 ,section ,,vii4 ,care of ,skins1 ,cabinets1 etc4 ,section ,,viii4 ,measuring ,specimens4 ,section ,,ix4 ,making ,over ,old ,skins4 ,,chapter ,,iv4--,,mounting ,,birds #fd ,section ,i4 ,instruments4 ,section ,,ii4 ,mounting from ,fresh ,specimens4 ,section ,,iii4 ,crested ,birds4 ,section ,,iv4 ,mounting with ,wings ,spread4 ,section ,v4 ,mounting ,birds for ,screens1 etc4 ,section ,,vi4 ,mounting ,dried ,skins4 ,section ,,vii4 ,prices for ,mounting ,birds4 ,section ,,viii4 ,panel ,work4--,game ,pieces1 etc4 ,,chapter ,v4--,,making ,,stands #ha ,section ,i4 ,plain ,stands4 ,section ,,ii4 ,ornamental ,stands4 ,,part ,,ii4--,,mammals1 ,,reptiles1 ,,etc4 ,,chapter ,,vi4--,,collecting ,,mammals #hd ,,chapter ,,vii4--,,making ,,skins ,,of ,,mammals #hf ,section ,i4 ,skinning ,small ,mammals4 ,section ,,ii4 ,skinning ,large ,mammals4 ,section ,,iii4 ,making ,skins of ,mammals4 ,section ,,iv4 ,measuring ,mammals4 ,,chapter ,,viii4--,,mounting ,,mammals #ij ,section ,i4 ,small ,mammals4 ,section ,,ii4 ,large ,mammals4 ,section ,,iii4 ,mounting ,dried ,skins of ,mammals4 ,section ,,iv4 ,mounting ,mammals without any bones4 ,,chapter ,,ix4--,,mounting ,,reptiles1 ,,batrachians1 ,,and ,,fishes #ig ,section ,i4 ,mounting ,lizards1 ,alligators1 etc4 ,section ,,ii4 ,mounting ,turtles4 ,section ,,iii4 ,mounting ,fishes4 ,,list ,,and ,,explanation ,,of ,,plates4 ,,fig4 #a4--,,page #b4 ,sieve trap3 ,b1 common coal sieve1 set with one edge raised by stick ,a1 to which is attached the string ,c1 one end of which is held by the bird-catcher at a distance4 ,when the bird1 attracted by the bait1 goes under the sieve1 the stick is jerked out and the sieve falls4 ,,fig4 #b4--,,page #c4 ,ever-ready bird-trap3 ,d1 body of trap made of netting ,f and ,a1 hoops supporting netting4 ,a1 ring to which are attached the wires ,c1 which point backwards4 ,the bait is placed within the body of the trap and scattered through the ring ,b4 ,then the bird enters at the entrance ,a1 goes through the ring ,b1 so on past the wires ,c1 which are arranged in a circle to prevent his egress4 ,the bird is removed through an orifice in the back1 drawn together with a string at ,f4 ,,fig4 #c4--,,page #cc4 ,skinning-knife3 ,the handle of this knife should be round1 and the blade does not close4 ,,fig4 #d4--,,page #cg4 ,skull of bird 7side view73 ,dotted line from ,a to ,b shows cut to be made in removing back of skull to give access to brain4 ,,fig4 #e4--,,page #cg4 ,skull of bird1 under side3 ,dotted lines ,a1 ,a1 ,a1 show cuts to be made in removing a triangular piece of bone and muscle1 to which the whole or a portion of the brain will adhere4 ,,fig4 #f4--,,page #db4 ,dissection of a song sparrow1 showing male organs of reproduction3 #a and #b1 lungs2 #c1 #c1 testicles4 ,the four organs below these are the kidneys4 ,,fig4 #g4--,,page #dc4 ,dissection of a song sparrow1 showing female organs of reproduction3 #d1 lungs2 #a1 #a1 small yellow glands1 present in both sexes2 #b1 ovaries2 #c1 oviduct4 ,these last four figures are merely diagrams1 only sufficiently accurate in outline to convey an idea of the position of the parts indicated4 ,,fig4 #h4--,,page #ej4 ,tweezers for making skins1 mounting1 etc43 ,several sizes are used1 but as a rule the points should be longer than those given in the cut4 ,,fig4 #i4--,,page #ea4 ,drying forms fastened to a board1 ,d1 skin in the form4 ,i now use these forms detached4 ,see text4 ,also1 see page #ed for a better method of making skins which ,i now practise4 ,,fig4 #aj4--,,page #ed4 ,form of a skin of an oriole3 ,i now use the long label given on page #eh4 ,a skin should not be made too full2 a dead bird laid on its back will convey an idea of the thickness of the body of a skin4 ,,fig4 #aa4--,,page #fd4 ,straight-nosed pliers3 ,used for bending wires in mounting4 ,,fig4 #ab4--,,page #fd4 ,cutting-pliers3 ,used for cutting wires in mounting4 ,,fig4 #ac4--,,page #ff4 ,body of a bird3 ,e1 neck-wire1 which should be as long as the neck and tongue in order to reach into the upper mandible4 ,this wire should be wrapped in cotton4 ,b1 wire before clinching2 ,g1 ,c1 wire clinched2 ,f1 tail wire bent in the form of a ,t at ,h1 a leg wire going through tarsus along dotted line to ,d4 ,,fig4 #ad4--,,page #fg4 ,roughly-drawn skeleton of a pinnated grouse1 only sufficiently accurate to indicate the different bones3 ,a1 skull2 ,b1 ,b1 ,b1 vertebr2 furcula of neck and back1 or wishing-bone2 ,d1 forearm2 ,f1 carpus1 showing hollow in bone through which the wire is to be passed in wiring the wing2 ,g1 end of furcula2 ,h1 tip of keel2 ,i1 indentations in posterior border of stemma2 ,j1 femur2 ,k1 tarsus2 ,l1 heel2 ,m1 pelvis2 ,n1 cocyx2 ,o1 crest of keel2 ,p1 side of keel2 ,x1 wire used in mounting skeleton2 ,a1 ,b1 ribs4 ,,fig4 #ae4--,,page #fi4 ,outline figure of grouse showing external parts3 ,a1 back2 ,b1 rump2 ,c1 upper tail coverts2 ,d1 under tail coverts2 ,e1 ventral region2 ,f1 tibra2 ,g1 tarsus2 ,h1 breast2 ,i1 side2 ,j1 throat2 ,n1 chin2 ,l1 abdomen2 ,m1 feet4 ,,fig4 #af4--,,page #gc4 ,outline drawing of a mounted bird3 ,a1 ,a1 dotted line to indicate the relative position of the head and body1 with the perch on which the bird stands2 ,b1 ,b1 winding cotton to keep the feathers in position2 ,c1 ,c1 indicating proper position of wings2 ,d1 tail feathers plated4 ,i do not now recommend this method4 ,e1 ,e1 tail bearing wire2 ,f1 upright of gland2 ,h1 horizontal bar of stand2 ,i1 feet of bird on stand2 ,s1 leg-wire wrapped around bar after emerging from foot4 ,,fig4 #ag4--,,page #ib4 ,lower portion of bolt used in mounting large mammals3 ,a1 movable nut on screw ,c2 ,b1 immovable flat washer4 ,,manual ,,of ,,taxidermy4 ,,part ,i4--,,birds4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,collecting4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4 ,,section ,i43 ,,trapping1 ,,etc4--,several devices for securing birds for specimens may be successfully practised1 one of the simplest of which is the box-trap1 so familiar to every schoolboy4 ,if this be baited with an ear of corn and placed in woods frequented by jays1 when the ground is covered with snow1 and a few kernels of corn scattered about1 as an attraction1 these usually wary birds will not fail to enter the trap4 ,i have captured numbers in this way1 in fact1 the first bird which ,i ever skinned and mounted1 was a blue jay1 caught in a box-trap4 ,i was only a small boy then1 so ,i do not now remember what first suggested mounting the bird1 but the inherent desire to preserve the specimen must have been fully as strong then as in later years1 or ,i never could have brought myself to the point of killing a bird in cold blood4 ,in fact1 putting the bird to death is the worst of trapping2 and with me1 unless ,i do it at once1 during the first excitement of finding the bird entrapped1 the deed is likely never to be done at all4 ,sparrows1 snow-buntings1 and in fact nearly all birds of this class may be caught in box-traps in winter4 ,for these small birds1 scatter chaff over the snow so thickly as to conceal it1 then use a spindle upon which canary-seed has been glued1 for bait1 scattering some of the seed outside4 ,other traps1 however1 may be used more successfully for fringilline birds4 ,for example1 the clap-net trap1 where two wings1 covered with a net1 close over the birds1 which are attracted by seeds strewn in chaff1 scattered in the snow4 ,this trap1 which is similar to those used by wild-pigeon catchers1 is sprung by means of a long cord1 the end of which is in the hands of a person who is concealed in a neighboring thicket or artificial bower4 ,a very simple trap1 but excellent for catching sparrows1 may be made by tilting a common coal sieve on one edge1 keeping it up by means of a stick which has a cord attached to the middle 7see ,fig4 #a74 ,the birds will readily go under the sieve1 in search of food1 when the trapper1 who is concealed at a short distance1 jerks out the stick by means of the cord2 the sieve falls and the birds are captured4 ,this trap requires constant watching1 which1 in cold days1 is not very pleasant2 thus a much better trap may be found in one of my own inventions1 which is called the ,ever-ready ,bird ,trap4 ,it is made of strong netting stretched over wire1 and is placed on the ground or on a board in a tree4 ,a decoy bird1 of the same species as those to be captured1 is procured if possible1 and placed in the back of the trap at ,fig4 #b1 and then the birds enter the front of the trap1 ,b2 pass through the way of wires1 ,c1 which pointing backward after the manner of the well-known rat-trap1 prevent their egress4 ,this trap is constantly set1 and several birds are captured at one time4 ,orioles1 bobolinks1 rose-breasted grosbeaks1 goldfinches1 snow-buntings1 all other sparrows and finches1 in fact1 all birds which will come to a decoy or bait1 may be taken in this trap4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4 ,i have frequently taken jays in small snares similar to those used in capturing rabbits4 ,quail and ruffed grouse were also taken in this manner before the present time1 but it is now illegal to trap game-birds in nearly all the ,states4 ,the steel trap of the smallest size is exceedingly useful in capturing hawks1 owls1 and even eagles1 as well as many other large birds4 ,one way is to set it in the nest of the bird1 first taking care to remove the eggs1 substituting for them those of a hen4 ,almost all large birds may be taken in this manner1 and it is an excellent way to identify the eggs in case of some rare hawks or herons4 ,the topmost portion of some dead stub1 which is a favorite roost of a hawk or eagle1 is a good place to set a trap2 and small hawks and owls may be captured by putting the trap on the top of a stake1 some eight or ten feet high1 in a meadow1 especially if there are no fences near4 ,hawks and owls haunt meadows in search of mice1 and invariably light upon a solitary stake1 if they can find one1 in order to eat their prey or to rest1 and thus are very apt to put their foot into it1 in a manner decidedly agreeable to the collector1 if not so pleasing to themselves4 ,steel-traps may also be set on boards nailed to trees1 in the woods or on hill-tops1 but they should in this case be baited with a small mammal or bird4 ,i have succeeded in capturing marsh hawks by tying a living mouse to a steel-trap1 and placing it in a meadow which was frequented by these birds4 ,other hawks and also eagles may be captured by using decoys2 the best thing for this purpose being1 strangely enough1 a live great horned owl4 ,the owl is fastened to a stout stake in an open field or meadow during the migration of hawks1 in the spring or fall1 and surrounded by baited traps4 ,the hawks passing over are attracted by the novel spectacle of an owl in such a peculiar position and come swooping down for a nearer view1 when they perceive the bait1 and in trying to eat it are caught4 ,a hawk or eagle may be used in this way as a decoy1 but the great horned owl is by far the best4 ,in using steel traps1 care should be taken to wrap the jaws with cloth1 so as to prevent injury to the legs of the bird captured4 ,vultures may be taken in steel traps by simply baiting them with any kind of flesh4 ,many species of birds may be successfully captured by one or another of the methods given4 ,in fact1 we are in constant receipt of trapped birds during the proper seasons1 and thus many hawks and owls which would have been difficult to procure are taken in numbers by our collectors4 ,bird-lime1 although scarcely advisable when the birds are intended to be preserved1 may be used to advantage in capturing birds for the cage4 ,a small quantity of it is spread on a twig or small stick1 one end of which is lightly stuck in a notch on some upright branch or stem1 in such a position that the bird must alight on it in order to reach the bait4 ,the stick should be poised so lightly that the slightest touch of the bird's feet will cause it to drop1 when the bird1 giving a downward stroke with its wings to save itself from falling1 will strike the outer quills against the stick1 and thus both feet and wings become fastened to it by the adhering lime4 ,in case of a rare specimen1 the lime may be removed from the plumage by the aid of alcohol1 or the bird will remove it in time1 if permitted to live4 ,good bird-lime is difficult to procure2 that made from linseed-oil and tar1 boiled down1 is the best2 but this process must be carried on in the open air1 as the mixture is exceedingly inflammable4 ,the sticky mass thus obtained must be worked with the hands under water1 until it assumes the proper consistency4 ,in spreading lime on the sticks1 the fingers should be wet to prevent the lime sticking to them4 ,another way in which ,i have taken such unsuspicious birds as pine grosbeaks1 cross-bills and red-polls1 is by placing a noose of fine wire on the end of a pole1 and by approaching a tree cautiously1 in which the birds were feeding1 have managed to slip it over their heads1 when they are drawn fluttering downward1 and the noose removed1 before any permanent injury is done4 ,i have even taken pine grosbeaks in an open field in this manner1 and have ascended a tree and captured them with only the noose attached to a stout piece of wire1 in my hand4 ,,section ,,ii43 ,,shooting4--,although1 as shown1 many valuable species may be secured by trapping1 snaring1 etc41 yet the collector relies mainly on his gun4 ,this much being decided1 it at once occurs to the beginner1 ,what kind of a weapon shall ,i get8 ,of course1 muzzle-loaders are now out of the question2 and among the multitudes of breech-loaders in the market1 one has only to consult his taste or the length of his purse4 ,therefore it is simply useless for me to recommend any particular make of gun4 ,good single-barrel breech-loaders can be bought for from nine dollars to twenty dollars1 while double-barrels cost from fifteen dollars upward4 ,for ordinary collecting1 a twelve-gauge is perhaps better than any other1 as such birds as ducks1 hawks and crows can be readily killed with it4 ,for warblers1 wrens1 and other small birds1 however1 a much smaller gauge gun is almost indispensable1 as a large gun sends the shot with such force that it not only penetrates the body of the bird1 but also goes out on the opposite side2 thus each shot makes two holes1 when one is all that is necessary to kill4 ,this fact should then always be kept in mind1 and as a rule load lightly1 with just enough powder to cause the shot to penetrate well into the bird without going through it4 ,in a twelve-gauge gun1 two drachms of powder behind an ounce of shot is sufficient to kill a bird like a jay or golden-winged woodpecker1 at a distance of thirty or forty yards2 then if more penetration is necessary1 more powder may be used with the same quantity of shot1 but this will cause the shot to scatter more4 ,a good collecting gun1 one which will kill small birds with a very small amount of ammunition and little noise1 has long been a desideratum4 ,i have tried many kinds1 but nothing has proved so satisfactory as a small repeating gun of my own invention1 and which is manufactured by us4 ,this gun consists of two brass tubes1 a smaller one within a larger1 with an air space between1 thus greatly deadening the sound2 and both are securely fastened to a finely nickel-plated five-shot revolver4 ,we make two sizes1 a twenty-two gauge1 the report of which is very slight1 and a thirty-two gauge1 which makes a little louder noise4 ,the former will kill warblers at fifteen yards1 and the latter at twenty yards1 while birds like jays1 thrushes1 and robins1 may be brought down with the thirty-two gauge at a distance of ten yards4 ,this gun served me well in ,florida last winter1 and ,i killed at least two-thirds of the birds that ,i collected there with it4 ,the light report of such a gun does not frighten the birds1 while the fact that one nearly always has a second shot ready in the revolving cylinder1 is a great help1 in case of a wounded bird1 or in the sudden appearance of a second specimen1 as so often happens1 after the first has fallen4 ,the price of this gun varies from four dollars and fifty cents to five dollars and seventy-five cents1 according to quality and size4 ,blow-guns1 air-guns1 catapults1 etc41 are useful only in cases when a shot-gun cannot be used1 as they cannot be depended upon4 ,a collector1 in order to procure birds with a certainty1 requires a good shot-gun4 ,the ammunition used in the small collecting gun is copper shells1 primed1 of three lengths for each size4 ,for shot1 ,i use dust numbers ten and eight1 but for a larger gun1 coarser shot is sometimes necessary2 collectors1 however1--especially beginners1--are apt to use too large shot4 ,on the contrary1 ,i do not like to shoot too fine shot at large birds2 thus a hawk killed with a heavy charge of dust-shot at twenty yards would have the feathers cut up very badly1 whereas a warbler shot at the same distance would be likely to make a good specimen1 as it would only receive a few pellets of shot1 whereas a large number would strike the hawk4 ,as a rule1 then1 use dust-shot for birds up to the size of a cedar-bird1 then number ten to the size of a jay1 after which number eight will kill better and cleaner1 and ,i should use this size as long as it will bring down the birds2 and it is surprising to see how large species may be killed with it4 ,i have taken brown pelicans1 wild geese1 and large hawks with number eight1 and ,i once secured a frigate-bird with it1 all at good distances4 ,for very large birds like cranes1 white pelicans1 or eagles ,i have used a rifle very successfully4 ,a thirty-two gauge ,allen is my favorite gun1 and ,i have killed birds at all distances from twenty to three hundred and twenty-five yards with it4 ,of course1 nearly all successful rifle shots must be made at sitting birds1 as ,i have met with but few who could bring them down when flying4 ,another good method of securing large shy birds which go in flocks1 is to load with buckshot1 putting a stiff charge of powder1 say three to five drachms1 behind it1 then fire into the flock from a distance1 elevating the gun at an angle of some forty-five degrees above the birds4 ,i have killed both species of pelicans at two hundred yards distant in this way4 ,,section ,,iii43 ,,procuring ,,birds4--,birds are to be found nearly everywhere1 in fact1 there is scarcely a square acre of land on the face of the earth which is not inhabited1 at one season or another1 by some species1 and many are found on the beaches1 and on the ocean itself4 ,following are some of the localities in which our ,american species are to be found2 and1 presumably1 foreign birds of the same families will occur in similar places4 ,,turdid3 ,,thrushes4--,of these1 the robin is the most common and is found everywhere4 ,next among the true thrushes are the olive-backed1 hermit1 and allied species4 ,these occur usually in woodlands1 and are rather shy1 keeping at a distance4 ,the wood thrush inhabits deeply-wooded glens4 ,the mocking thrushes prefer thickets in the neighborhood of dwellings1--for example1 the cat-bird4 ,the brown thrush also inhabits thickets1 but are not1 as a rule1 fond of the society of man1 while the smaller thrushes1 of which the golden-crowned is an example1 prefer the woodlands2 and the two water thrushes are found in swampy localities4 ,,saxicolid3 ,,stone-,,chats4--,the blue-birds are often sociable1 building in orchards and farmyards1 while the western species appear to prefer mountain cliffs as breeding-places4 ,the rare stone-chat is1 ,i think1 found in open sections where it occurs at all4 ,,cinclid3 ,,ouzel4--,the solitary species of ouzel found with us inhabits the mountain streams of the far west4 ,,sylvid3 ,,true ,,warblers4--,are pre-eminently birds of the woodlands1 but occasionally the kinglets1 notably the golden-crowned1 will wander into orchards during mild days in winter4 ,,cham,,id3 ,,wrentits4--,the only species found in the ,united ,states inhabits the sage-brush in the far southwest4 ,,parid3 ,,titmice4--,are also found in the woods or thickets1 but some species wander into the orchards during winter4 ,,sittid3 ,,nuthatches4--,are birds of the woodlands as a rule1 but the white and red-bellied nuthatches wander considerably in autumn1 while the brown-headed seldom if ever leave the piny woods of the south4 ,,troglodytid3 ,,wrens4--,the creeper-wrens are found among the cacti of the far southwest1 while the rock-wrens occur among thickets in a similar region4 ,the true wrens are found in thickets1 often in the neighborhood of dwellings1 in which they frequently build1 while the two marsh wrens occur on both salt and fresh water marshes throughout the country4 ,,alaudid3 ,,true ,,larks4--,these birds occur on the far prairies1 on the coast of ,labrador1 and in winter along the barren seashores of the northern and middle section4 ,,motacilid3 ,,wagtails4--,are also birds of the open country1 and the titlark is found in fields during the migrations1 especially along the coast from ,maine to ,florida4 ,,sylvicolid3 ,,american ,,warblers4--,these gems of the woodland and of wayside thickets abound throughout the length and breadth of our country4 ,during the migrations they are generally distributed1 it not being uncommon1 then1 to find even the ,blackburnian warbler1 which1 during the nesting season1 is pre-eminently a bird of the deep woods1 feeding in the open fields1 while ,i have taken the ,cape ,may warbler1 which occurs in summer in the thick evergreens of the north1 feeding among the oranges and bananas in the gardens of ,key ,west4 ,warblers then should be looked after nearly everywhere1 among willows by the brookside1 on the barren hill-tops which scarcely support a scant growth of pine or cedars1 and on the blooming trees of orchards4 ,some species are exceedingly shy1 so as to require a heavy charge of dust-shot to reach them1 while others are so tame as to peer inquisitively into the very face of a collector as he makes his way through their chosen retreats4 ,,tanagrid3 ,,tanagers4--,these strikingly colored birds are usually found in the woods1 occasionally however visiting the open sections4 ,they are rather shy and retiring in habits1 and their presence must be usually detected by their song4 ,,hirundinid3 ,,swallows4--,are birds of the open country1 and are more common in the vicinity of settlements than elsewhere4 ,the violet-green swallow1 however1 occurs among the cliffs of the ,rocky ,mountains4 ,,ampelid3 ,,waxwings4--,are1 as a rule1 found in the open country in the vicinity of settlements2 and even the ,bohemian waxwings occur abundantly in some of the cities of ,utah in winter1 feeding upon the fruit of the ornamental trees4 ,,vireonid3 ,,vireos4--,these widely-distributed birds are usually fond of the woodlands1 but the white-eye prefers thickets in swampy places1 while the warbling is seldom found far from settlements2 indeed1 more often inhabits trees which grow in the streets of villages than other sections4 ,,laniid3 ,,shrikes4--,are found in open sections1 often in fields1 and on the uninhabited ,indian hunting-grounds of ,florida4 ,i found the loggerheads along the borders of the open prairies4 ,,fringillid3 ,,finches1 ,,sparrows1 ,,and ,,grosbeaks4--,these are1 as a rule1 found mainly in the more open country4 ,the cross-bills1 however1 enter thick woods1 especially evergreens4 ,the grosbeaks1 notably the rose-breast1 prefer the woodlands4 ,the blue sparrows1 like the indigo bird1 are found in open fields grown up to bushes4 ,the snow-buntings occur in open fields and along barren sections of seaboard1 while the sharp-tailed and sea-side finches inhabit the marshes4 ,the grass sparrows1 notably the yellow-winged1 ,henslow's1 and ,leconte's1 prefer grassy plains4 ,last winter ,i procured all three species of this genus 7,coturniculus7 on a plantation in ,western ,florida1 securing them all in three successive shots1 a feat which has1 ,i am certain1 never before been accomplished4 ,many of these grass-haunting birds have to be shot as they rise from the herbage to fly away1 but ,i found1 by persistingly following a specimen from point to point1 that after a time it would settle in a bush1 when ,i could secure it with my repeating collecting gun4 ,,icterid3 ,,orioles1 ,,blackbirds1 ,,etc4--,orioles prefer1 as a rule1 orchards and ornamental trees about dwellings1 but they sometimes occur in the more open woodlands4 ,the marsh blackbirds1 like the red-wings and yellow-headed1 prefer wet meadows4 ,the rusty and brewer's are found in swamps4 ,the crow blackbirds and boat-tailed occur in fields and along the borders of streams4 ,,corvid3 ,,crows1 ,,jays1 ,,etc4--,these usually occur in the woodlands or thickets4 ,crows frequent the seashore in numbers in winter1 and may be secured by exposing meat which is poisoned by strychnine1 as they will frequently eat it during the inclement season4 ,canada and blue jays occur in woods1 while the ,florida and ,california jays inhabit thickets4 ,,tyrannid3 ,,flycatchers4--,are widely distributed species4 ,the king-birds are found in the more open sections1 and the same is true of the crested flycatchers4 ,the bridge pewee inhabits the vicinity of dwellings1 while the wood pewee occurs in the woods4 ,the least flycatcher prefers orchards1 but the greater portions of the genus ,empidonax are found in woodlands or thickets4 ,,caprimulgid3 ,,goatsuckers4--,the whip-poor-wills and chuck-wills-widow occur in the thick wood1 emerging occasionally at night1 but seldom straying from their retreats4 ,a good way to secure these birds is to note as accurately as possible the point where one begins to sing2 then1 on the following evening1 conceal yourself near the spot1 when the bird will be seen to emerge from its retreat and alight on some particular rock1 post1 or branch1 on which it invariably perches1 and utters its song4 ,then if the bird be too far away to secure at the time1 it may readily be taken another evening by the collector posting himself nearer4 ,these birds may also be started from their concealment during daylight1 and thus be shot4 ,the night-hawks inhabit the more open sections1 but perch on trees during the day4 ,they may readily be secured while flying over the fields4 ,,cypselid3 ,,swifts4--,the white-throated swift occurs among the clefts of the ,rocky ,mountains1 and is exceedingly difficult to procure4 ,the well-known chimney swift inhabits chimneys almost everywhere1 but1 as it never alights outside of these retreats1 must be shot on the wing4 ,,trochilid3 ,,hummingbirds4--,inhabit as a rule the open country4 ,i have secured numbers of our ruby-throats on cherry-trees when they were in blossom1 and later1 on beds of flowers2 and ,i presume the western species may be found in similar situations4 ,i shoot them with light charges of dust-shot1 fired from my collecting gun4 ,,alcidinid3 ,,kingfishers4--,these noisy birds are found plentifully in the vicinity of streams4 ,they are shy and require a heavy charge of number eight to bring them down4 ,,cuculid3 ,,cuckoos4--,the roadrunner of ,california1 ,texas1 and intermediate locality1 occurs in the sage bush1 but our species of cuckoos1 even the mangrove1 inhabit thickets from which they occasionally emerge4 ,they are usually betrayed by their notes4 ,they are easily killed1 their skin being very thin and tender4 ,,picid3 ,,woodpeckers4--,occur1 as a rule1 in the woodlands1 but the smaller species and the golden-winged inhabit orchards4 ,they are all tough birds to kill4 ,they are a generally distributed family1 but some species are confined to certain localities1 for example1 the great ivory-billed is not found outside of ,florida1 and even there1 is confined to a limited area1 and very rare4 ,strickland's woodpecker has as yet only been found in the ,united ,states in a single range of mountains in ,arizona4 ,,psittacid3 ,,parrots4--,our ,carolina paroquet is now exceedingly rare out of ,florida1 and then occurs in the neighborhood of cypress swamps1 but occasionally visits the plantations4 ,,strigid3 ,,owls4--,the burrowing owl occurs in the western plains and in a limited area of ,florida4 ,the snowy owl inhabits sand-hills of the coast in winter1 and the short-eared occurs in the marshes1 but all other species are birds of the deep woods1 occasionally emerging1 however1 especially at night4 ,the great horned and barred may be decoyed within shooting distance in the spring by imitating their cries1 and the latter-named species will also eagerly fly toward the collector when he produces a squeaking sound similar to that made by a mouse4 ,the small owls may be often found in holes of trees4 ,,falconid3 ,,hawks1 ,,eagles1 ,,etc4--,marsh hawks occur in fields1 meadows1 and marshes4 ,everglade kites are found on the widespread savannahs of ,florida1 while the swallow-tailed ,mississippi and white-shouldered are found on the prairies of the south and west4 ,the buzzard hawks usually occur in the woods1 but during the migrations pass over the fields1 flying high4 ,the fish-hawk is abundant on the seacoast1 but also visits the ponds and lakes of the interior4 ,the duck-hawk is fond of clefts1 and migrates along the seacoast4 ,the sharp-shinned sparrow and pigeon are often found in solitary trees in fields1 where they hunt for mice1 but they also occur in open woods4 ,the bald eagle occurs on the seashore or on large bodies of water1 but the golden eagle prefers the mountainous regions4 ,,cathartid3 ,,vultures4--,occur everywhere throughout the south4 ,the great ,california vulture is now very rare4 ,,columbid3 ,,pigeons4--,are usually found in fields1 but the wild pigeon is often taken in the woods4 ,the ground doves are found in fields which are bordered with thickets1 to which they retreat when alarmed4 ,two or three species are found on the ,florida ,keys1 and about as many more in ,texas4 ,,meleagrid3 ,,turkeys4--,wild turkeys occur in the wilderness of the south and west4 ,they inhabit open woods as a rule1 often roosting at night in swamps4 ,,tetraonid3 ,,grouse1 ,,quail1 ,,etc4--,the ,canada1 ruffled1 and allied species of grouse occur in the woodlands4 ,the prairie sharp-tail and sage-hen are found on the plains of the west1 while the ptarmigans inhabit the bleak regions of the north4 ,the common quail is widely distributed throughout the more open country1 from ,massachusetts to ,texas1 and the plumed ,california and allied species occur in the southwest1 frequenting the thickets of the prairies1 or along the mountain-sides4 ,,charadrid3 ,,plovers4--,these are1 as a rule1 maritime birds1 especially during the southward migrations1 but many of the species breed in the interior1 and the kildeer and mountain plovers are always more common on bodies of fresh water4 ,none of the species are1 however1 found far from water1 but they all alight in dry fields in search of food4 ,h,,matopodid3 ,,oyster-,,catchers ,,and ,,turnstones4--,all these birds inhabit the seacoast4 ,they occur in oyster-beds or among rocks4 ,,recurvirostrid3 ,,avocets ,,and ,,stilts4--,both these species are birds of the interior1 being found in the south and west in the vicinity of water4 ,,phalaropodid3 ,,phalaropes4--,these singular birds are found off the coast1 often far out at sea during winter1 but1 oddly enough1 breed in the interior1 nesting throughout the northwest and north4 ,they are1 however1 occasionally found on the coast during the northward migration1 especially during storms4 ,,scolopacid3 ,,snipes1 ,,woodcock1 ,,etc4--,woodcock and snipes are usually found in freshwater swamps1 especially in spring4 ,the true sandpipers1 like peep1 grass-birds1 etc41 haunt the pools in marshes or accompany the sanderlings on the beaches4 ,the godwits are found on the marshes1 as are also red-breasted snipe1 but the curlews inhabit hill-tops1 especially during the autumnal migration4 ,i have1 however1 found the long-billed curlew on the beaches of ,florida4 ,willets and yellow-legs occur on the marshes or on the borders of streams4 ,,tantalid3 ,,ibises ,,and ,,spoonbills4--,occur along the borders of streams and other bodies of fresh water1 or on mud-flats in the far south4 ,,ardeid3 ,,herons4--,these are widely distributed birds4 ,the true herons occur along the margins of bodies of water1 both on the coast and in the interior1 while the bitterns generally haunt only the fresh water4 ,,gruid3 ,,cranes4--,are found on the prairies of the west and south1 frequenting the vicinity of water4 ,,aramid3 ,,courlan4--,the well-known crying-bird is found only in ,florida1 inhabiting swamps along the rivers and lakes of the interior4 ,,rallid3 ,,rails1 ,,gallinules1 ,,and ,,coots4--,the true rails inhabit very wet marshes1 both salt and fresh1 concealing themselves in the grass4 ,gallinules and coots are found on the borders of fresh water4 ,,phoenicopterid3 ,,flamingoes4--,the flamingo occurs only with us1 on the extensive mud-flats in extreme ,southern ,florida1 where they are exceedingly difficult to procure1 being very shy4 ,,anatid3 ,,geese1 ,,ducks1 ,,etc4--,these are all inhabitants of the water1 being seldom found far from it4 ,some species1 like the teal1 prefer secluded pools in the interior1 while the wood-duck and others frequent woodland streams2 and the eiders and marine ducks are abundant in the waters of the ocean4 ,,sulid3 ,,gannets4--,excepting while breeding1 these birds keep well out to sea1 and are thus quite difficult to procure4 ,all of the marine species are liable to be driven inland during severe storms1 and the collector should not fail to take advantage of such circumstances4 ,,pelecanid3 ,,pelicans4--,the brown pelican is a resident of the extreme southern coast1 and may be found on sand-bars or perched on trees in the immediate vicinity of water4 ,the white pelican is found in similar localities in winter1 but migrates northward during the summer1 breeding in the interior1 from ,utah to the ,arctic regions4 ,,graculid3 ,,cormorants4--,occur on sand-bars in the south1 or on rocky cliffs in the north1 and on the ,pacific coast4 ,during migrations they keep well out to sea4 ,they have the habit1 in common with the gannets and pelicans1 of alighting on barren sand-spits which rise out of the water4 ,,plotid3 ,,darters4--,the snake-bird of the south occurs on bodies of fresh water1 and may be seen perched on trees or flying high in air4 ,they are exceedingly difficult to kill1 being1 as a rule1 shy1 and very tenacious of life4 ,,tachypetid3 ,,frigate ,,birds4--,the frigate bird is found with us only on the ,gulf of ,mexico and among the ,florida ,keys4 ,they are usually seen upon wing1 but ,i have observed thousands perched on the mangroves on the ,keys4 ,they roost on the trees on lonely islets at night1 at which time they appear so stupid that they may be approached quite readily4 ,,ph,,tonid3 ,,tropic ,,birds4--,these fine birds occur only in tropical waters unless they are accidentally blown out of their latitude by storms4 ,they breed on the rocky cliffs of the ,bahamas and ,bermudas4 ,,larid3 ,,gulls1 ,,terns1 ,,etc4--,the ,skua gulls keep well out to sea1 as a rule1 but occasionally enter harbors and bays in pursuit of gulls and terns1 which they rob of their prey4 ,gulls and terns of the various species rest on sand-bars or fly along the shore4 ,,procellarid3 ,,petrels4--,excepting while breeding1 these birds keep well out to sea and are thus quite difficult to procure4 ,they haunt the waters which are frequented by fishermen1 however1 and may be procured by visiting these localities on some fishing-smack4 ,,colymbid3 ,,loons4--,are found in both fresh and salt waters1 but are somewhat difficult to procure on account of their habit of diving4 ,,podicipid3 ,,grebes4--,these birds have similar habits to those of the loons1 but are found in smaller bodies of water1 notably the ,pied-billed1 one or more specimens of which occur in almost every little pool throughout the country1 especially during the southward migration4 ,,alcid3 ,,auks1 ,,puffins1 ,,etc4--,these birds are found off the coast during migration1 but breed on the rocky shores of both coasts4 ,although the foregoing list gives the locality in which a given species may be found1 as a rule1 it is always well to bear in mind that birds have wings1 and by the use of them may stray into unaccustomed localities far distant from their usual habitance4 ,for example1 a burrowing owl was shot on the marshes of ,newburyport1 and a petrel1 which has hitherto been known to science through a single specimen which was taken many years ago in the southern hemisphere1 was picked up1 in an exhausted condition1 in a ploughed field of the interior of ,new ,york4 ,the young collector then should ever be on the alert1 keeping well in mind the fact that the art which he is pursuing is not lightly learned4 ,i have frequently heard the inexperienced remark that he could easily kill a hundred birds in a day2 and although this might be true on certain occasions1--for ,i have seen over this number killed by one person in two discharges of a gun1--yet1 as a rule1 a good collector will seldom bring in over fifty birds during his best days4 ,a man must not only be experienced1 but will be obliged to work hard in order to average twenty-five birds in a day4 ,although there are some born collectors who will procure birds1 even if they be provided with no more formidable weapon than a boy's catapult1 yet the peculiar attributes which make up a good collector are mainly to be acquired4 ,a quick eye to detect a flutter of a wing or the flit of a tail among waving foliage2 an ear ready to catch the slighest chirp heard amid the rustling leaves1 and so skilled as to intrepret the simple gradations of sound which distinguish the different species2 a constant wide-awake alertness1 so that nothing escapes the observation1 and which gives such nice control over the muscles that the gun comes to the shoulder with a promptitude that combines thought with action2 and an unwearying patience and pluck which totally disregard minor obstacles1 are some of the characteristics which must be possessed by the individual who wishes to bring together a good collection of birds by his own exertions4 ,if one does not possess these traits1 why1 then study to acquire them2 for securing birds is as fine an art as is preserving them after they are obtained4 ,,section ,,iv43 ,,care ,,of ,,specimens4--,just as soon as a bird is shot1 examine it carefully by blowing aside the feathers in order to find the shot-holes2 if they bleed1 remove the clotted blood with a small stick1 or1 better1 the point of a penknife1 then with a pointed stick1 or the knife1 plug the hole with a little cotton1 and sprinkle plaster1 or better1 some of my preservative1 on the spot4 ,next plug the mouth with cotton1 taking care to push the wad down far enough to allow the bill to close1 for if the mandibles are left open the skin of the chin and upper throat will dry1 causing the feathers to stand upright4 ,smooth the specimen lightly and place it1 head down1 in a paper cone1 which should be long enough to allow folding the top without bending the tail feathers4 ,then the bird may be placed in a fish basket1 which is the best receptacle for carrying birds1 as it is not only light to carry1 but also admits the air4 ,never shut a bird up in a close box in warm weather1 as it will spoil very quickly4 ,care of a bird in the field will save much labor1 and your cabinet specimens will look enough better to warrant it4 ,blood left under the plumage gradually soaks through the feathers1 thus causing them to become matted1 when they are exceedingly difficult to clean4 ,some specimens however1 will bleed1 and if they are to be preserved this blood must be removed4 ,i have always found it best to wash the blood off in the first water ,i could find1 and then let the bird dry1 either by carrying in my hand1 or1 by suspending it to a limb of a tree1 where ,i could return for it afterwards4 ,care should be taken in such cases1 however1 to wash all the blood off1 and then plug the wound with cotton1 as if any flows out when the plumage is wet it will spread on the feathers and stain them4 ,in picking up birds that are only wounded never take them by the tail1 wing1 or any part of the plumage1 but grasp them firmly in the hand in such a way as to imprison both wings1 then kill them by a firm pressure of the thumb and forefinger1 applied to the sides just back of the wings4 ,this compresses the lungs1 and the birds die of suffocation almost instantly4 ,never strike a bird1 no matter how large1 with a stick1 but in case of hawks1 eagles1 etc41 the talons of which are dangerous1 seize them first by the tip of one wing1 then by the other1 work the hands downward until the back is grasped1 then apply the pressure to the lungs4 ,there is no danger from the beak of even the most formidable species after the pressure is put upon the lungs1 for ,i never knew a specimen to bite while being killed in this way2 the only thing necessary is to keep out of the way of their talons4 ,i have frequently been obliged to remove eagles from a box and kill them1 and have done it with my hands alone4 ,wounded doves and pigeons should be grasped very firmly1 and not allowed to struggle in the least1 as their feathers fall out very easily2 and the same is true1 though to a less extent1 with cuckoos2 in fact1 it is always best to brush the plumage as little as possible1 handling the specimen when dead by the feet or bill4 ,in picking up white herons or other birds which have fallen in mud or other dirty water1 take them up by the bill and shake them gently to remove the ooze4 ,the feathers of all birds1 especially aquatic species1 are covered with a delicate oil1 and all extraneous matter glides off the plumage if they are not soaked in water4 ,in catching wounded herons1 take them by the beak to avoid the danger of losing an eye from a lunge of the sharp point4 ,when a bird is to be placed in a basket or on a bench1 do not throw it down1 but lay it gently on its back1 always bearing in mind that the smoother a bird is kept before it is skinned the better it will look when preserved4 ,i have even noticed that the true ornithological enthusiast always keeps his birds in good condition1 while others who merely shoot birds for the momentary pleasure of the thing1 or for gain1 are very apt to handle them roughly4 ,in other words1 the student of nature possesses an innate love of his pursuits1 which causes him to respect even a dead bird4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,skinning ,,birds4 ,,section ,i43 ,,ordinary ,,method4--,the only instruments that ,i use in removing the skin of birds ordinarily is a simple knife of a peculiar form 7see ,fig4 #c72 but ,i like to have a pair of dissecting scissors by me to be used in cases given further on4 ,i also have plenty of cotton1 and either ,indian meal or dermal preservative at hand to absorb blood and other juices4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4 ,to remove the skin from the bird1 first see that the mouth is plugged with cotton1 and if it is1 note if this be dry1 if not remove it and substitute fresh4 ,it is also well to note if the bird be flexible1 for if rigid it is extremely difficult to skin1 and it is always best to wait until this peculiar rigidity of the muscles1 which follows death in all vertebrate animals1 shall have passed4 ,this occurs in warm weather in much less time than in cold1 often in one or two hours1 but in moderate temperature a bird had better lie for at least six hours after it has been killed4 ,take then a specimen in the proper condition1 lay it on its back on a bench1 on which clean paper has been spread1 with its head from you1 but slightly inclined to the left4 ,now part the feathers of the abdomen with the left hand1 and1 excepting in ducks and a few other species1 a space1 either naked or covered with down1 will be seen extending from the lower or costal extremity of the sternum to the vent4 ,insert the point of the knife1 which is held in the left hand1 with the back downward1 under the skin near the sternum1 and1 by sliding it downward1 make an incision quite to the vent1 taking care not to cut through the walls of the abdomen4 ,this can readily be avoided in fresh birds1 but not in specimens that have been softened by lying too long4 ,the fingers of the right hand should be employed during this operation in holding apart the feathers4 ,now sprinkle meal or preservative in the incision1 especially if blood or juices flow out1 in order to absorb them and prevent them soiling the feathers4 ,next1 with the thumb and finger of the right hand1 peel down the skin on the left side of the orifice1 at the same time pressing the tibia on that side upward4 ,this will disclose the second joint of the leg1 or knee proper4 ,pass the knife under this joint1 and1 by cutting against the thumb1 cut it completely off1 a matter easily accomplished in small birds2 rub a little absorbent on either side of the severed joint2 then grasping the end of the tibia firmly between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand1 draw it outward4 ,at the same time1 the skin of the leg should be pressed downward by the fingers of the right hand to prevent tearing4 ,the leg is thus easily exposed1 and should be1 as a rule1 skinned to the tarsal joint4 ,with the thumb-nail1 nip off the extreme tip of the tibial bone1 and strip the flesh off the remainder of the bone by a downward pull2 then give the whole a twist1 and cut all the tendrils at once4 ,of course the flesh may be removed from the bone by scraping1 etc41 but the above is the best method1 and in case of large birds1 break the end of the tibia with pliers4 ,turn the bird end for end1 and proceed the same with the other leg1 but during both operations the bird should not be raised from the bench4 ,now peel away the skin about the tail1 place the forefinger under its base1 and cut downward through the caudal vertebra and muscles of the back quite to the skin1 the finger being a guide to prevent going through this4 ,rub absorbent on the severed portion4 ,grasp the end of the vertebra protruding from the body1 thus raising the bird from the bench2 peel down front and back by pushing downward with the hand1 rather coaxing the skin off than forcing or pulling it4 ,soon the wings will appear2 sever these where the humerus joins the coracoid1 cutting through the muscles from above downward in large specimens1 thus more readily finding the joints4 ,rub on absorbent1 and it may be well to remark that this must be done whenever a fresh cut is made4 ,then the body is laid on the bench1 and the skin is held in one hand1 or1 in large specimens1 allowed to rest on the lap or on the bench1 but never to dangle4 ,keep on peeling over the neck by using the tips of as many fingers as can be brought into service and soon1 the skull will appear4 ,the next obstruction will be the ears2 these should be pulled or1 better1 pinched out with the thumb and forefinger nails4 ,do not tear the ears1 and special care should be exercised in this respect in owls4 ,when the eyes are exposed1 pass the knife between the lids and orbit1 close to the former1 taking care that the nyctatating membrane be removed from the skin1 or it will be in the way when the eyelids are arranged in making the skin4 ,peel well down to the base of the bill1 so that every portion of the skin may be covered with preservative4 ,push the point of the knife under the eyes1 and remove them by a single motion1 without breaking them4 ,cut off the back of the skull at the point shown in the line ,a1 ,fig4 #d2 turn the head over and make two cuts outward as seen at ,a4 ,a41 ,fig4 #e1 thus removing a triangular portion of the skull ,b1 ,fig4 #d1 to which the brain will usually adhere1 but when it does not1 remove it with the point of the knife4 ,this leaves the eye-cavities open from beneath4 ,draw out the wings by grasping the end of the humerus in the left hand1 and press the skin back with the right1 to the forearm2 then with the thumb-nail1 or back of the knife1 separate the secondary quills which adhere to the larger bone from it1 thus turning out the wing to the last joint or phalanges4 ,cover the skin well with preservative1 especially the skull1 wings1 and base of tail2 roll up balls of cotton of about the size of the entire eye removed1 and place in the cavities in such a condition that the smooth side of the ball may come outward so that the eyelids may be arranged neatly over them4 ,nothing now remains but to turn the skin back to its former position4 ,turn the wings by gently pulling the primaries and the head1 by forcing the skull upward until the bill can be grasped2 then by pulling forward on this1 and working the skin backward with one hand1 the matter will be accomplished1 when the feathers may be lightly smoothed and arranged4 ,it must be borne in mind that the quicker and more lightly a skin is removed the better the specimen will look4 ,by lightly1 ,i mean that the skin should not be tightly grasped nor stretched by pulling4 ,some workmen will remove a skin from a bird which is nearly spoiled without starting a feather1 while others may skin a specimen as quickly1 but the plumage will be crushed and broken through rough usage4 ,the time for removing the skin from a small bird should not exceed six minutes1 and ,i have seen it taken off in half this time4 ,of course the beginner will be longer than this2 and then the skin should be occasionally moistened1 by using a damp sponge4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #d4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #e4 ,,section ,,ii43 ,,exceptions ,,to ,,the ,,usual ,,method ,,of ,,skinning4--,in case of birds which are very soft on account of having been dead a long time1 it may be advisable to open either beneath the wing1 making a short incision along the side or above the wing1 cutting along the feather tracks just above the scapularies2 and some skin ducks through a hole in the back just above the rump4 ,i do not1 however1 advise such practice1 as a rule1 as the skins are more difficult to make up1 and the bird cannot be mounted quite as readily4 ,woodpeckers with large heads and small necks1 like the pileated and ivory-billed1 and ducks having similar characteristics1 as the wood1 pintail1 and a few other species2 also flamingoes1 sand-hill1 and whooping cranes1 cannot be skinned over the head in the usual manner1 but the neck should be cut off after the skin has been removed as far as possible1 and then a slit should be cut in the back of the head1 and the head be skinned through this orifice1 but an abundance of absorbent should be used to prevent the feathers from becoming soiled4 ,care should be exercised in skinning cuckoos1 doves1 thrushes1 and some species of sparrows1 as the skin is not only thin1 but the feathers start in the rump and back very readily4 ,peel the skin off gently1 and do not fold it abruptly backward in working on these parts1 but hold it as nearly as possible in its original position4 ,the skin of the wood duck1 and sometimes that of the hooded merganser1 adheres to the flesh of the breast1 but it may be separated by working carefully with the back of the knife4 ,in removing the skins of young birds in the down1 like ducks and gallinaceous birds1 do not attempt to skin the wings4 ,if a specimen is to be mounted with the wings spread1 the secondaries should not be detached1 but the knife should be forced down back of the primaries in order to break up the muscles2 then as much of the flesh as possible should be removed1 and a quantity of preservative pushed in beneath the skin4 ,in larger birds a slit should be made on the under side of the wing1 and the muscles removed from the outside without detaching the secondaries2 and also when a specimen is to be mounted1 the eye cavities should be filled with clay well kneaded to the consistency of putty4 ,,section ,,iii43 ,,ascertaining ,,the ,,sex ,,of ,,birds4--,although the sex of many birds can be ascertained with tolerable certainty by the plumage1 yet this is never an infallible guide1 and to make perfectly sure of every case the internal organs should be examined4 ,i always advise dissecting such plainly-marked birds as scarlet tanagers or red-winged blackbirds1 and by practising this habit ,i was once fortunate enough to discover a female painted bunting in full male livery4 ,the sex of birds can be readily ascertained in the following manner3 ,lay the bird's body on its left side1 with the head from you2 then with a knife or scissors1 cut through the ribs and abdominal walls on the right side2 then raise the intestines1 and the organs will appear4 ,in males1 two bodies1 the testicles1 more or less spherical1 will be seen lying just below the lungs on the upper portion of the kidneys 7,fig4 #f1 #c1 #c74 ,these vary not only in color from white to black1 but also in size1 depending upon the season or age of the specimen4 ,thus1 in an adult song sparrow1 during the beginning of the breeding season1 the testicles will be nearly or quite a half inch in diameter1 whereas in autumn they will not exceed a number eight shot in size2 and in nestlings of the same species they are not larger than a small pellet of dust-shot4 ,at this early age1 the sex of birds which have become somewhat soft is quite difficult to determine1 and the same is true at any season if the specimens be badly shot up4 ,there are other organs1 however1 in the male4 ,for example1 the sperm ducts are always present1 appearing like two white lines2 and in the breeding season the plexus of nerves and arteries about the vent becomes swollen1 forming two prominent tubercles on either side 7,fig4 #f1 #c1 #c74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4 ,in the female the ovaries lie on the right side 7,fig4 #g1 #b7 in about the same position as is occupied by the testicles in the male4 ,the ovaries vary in size from that of half the size of an egg to minute points1 depending1 as in the male1 on the season of the year and age of the specimen4 ,in very young birds the ovaries consist of a small white body which under a magnifying glass appears somewhat granular4 ,in both male and female are two yellowish or whitish bodies1 in the former sex lying above the testicles1 but further forward1 and consequently just in front of the kidneys2 and in the female they occupy about the same position4 ,in addition to the ovaries in the female1 the oviduct is always present 7,fig4 #g1 #c71 large1 swollen1 and convoluted during the breeding season1 but smaller and nearly straight at other times4 ,in young specimens it appears as a small white line4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #g4 ,the denuded breast and abdomen seen in birds during the breeding season1 cannot always be depended upon as a mark of sex1 as this occasionally occurs in males as well as in females4 ,,section ,,iv43 ,,preserving ,,skins4--,taxidermists for many years have made use of arsenic in some form as a preservative2 and in the first edition of my ,naturalists' ,guide1 ,i recommended the use of it dry1 stating that ,i did not think it injurious if not actually eaten4 ,i have1 however1 since had abundant cause to change my opinion in this respect1 and now pronounce it a dangerous poison4 ,not one person in fifty can handle the requisite quantity of arsenic necessary to preserve specimens1 for any length of time1 without feeling the effects of it4 ,for a long time ,i was poisoned by it1 but attributed it to the noxious gases arising from birds that had been kept too long4 ,it is possible that the poison from arsenic with which my system was filled might have been affected by these gases1 causing it to develop itself1 but ,i do not think that the gas itself is especially injurious1 as ,i have never been poisoned since ,i discontinued the use of arsenic4 ,when ,i became convinced that arsenic was injuring my health1 and that of others1 ,i began to experiment upon other substances1 and after trying a quantity of various things1 have succeeded in manufacturing a nearly odorless compound which has the following advantages over arsenic3 ,it thoroughly preserves the skins of birds1 mammals1 reptiles1 and fishes from decay1 and also prevents the attacks of dermestes or anthrenus1 while the feathers of birds and hair of mammals are not as liable to be attacked by moths as when the skin is preserved with arsenic4 ,this preservative when properly applied abstracts the oil from greasy skins1 thus preventing them from becoming decayed through carbonization1 as nearly always occurs in ducks' skins after a few years4 ,it is a deodorizer1 all disagreeable smells leaving the skin to which it is applied2 and above all it is not a poison4 ,i used this dermal preservative1 as we have named it1 as an absorbent while skinning birds1 especially small ones1 as then the plumage is dusted with it necessarily1 which insures more or less protection to the feathers from the attacks of moths4 ,to render my preservative1 or indeed any other1 effective1 it must be thoroughly applied to the skin2 all the portions1 especially those to which any flesh adheres1 must be well covered with it1 and the fibre of the muscles should be broken up as much as possible4 ,but a small portion1 at best1 of arsenic is soluble in either water or alcohol1 and but a little in the juices of the skin1 whereas in my dermal preservative at least three-fourths of that which comes in contact with a moist skin is absorbed1 thus thoroughly preserving the specimen4 ,in the case of a greasy skin1 remove as much fat as possible by peeling it off or gently scraping until all the little cells which contain the oil are broken up and the skin appears2 then coat the skin liberally with the preservative1 when it will be found to absorb the oil4 ,allow this layer to remain a few minutes1 then scrape it all off and coat again with a fresh supply4 ,continue to do this until all the oil that will flow out is absorbed1 and then dust with a final coating4 ,there are two chemical processes carried on in preserving oily skins1 one of which converts the oil into soap1 and this is in turn absorbed and dried4 ,thus the preservative which has been scraped from the skin can be after a time used again1 as it has lost but a small portion of its efficiency4 ,it might be borne in mind1 however1 that all the fat cells possible must be broken up1 as the skin which surrounds these is1 in a measure1 impervious to the preservative1 which must1 in order to absorb oil1 come in contact with it4 ,,section ,v43 ,,other ,,methods ,,of ,,preserving ,,skins4--,skins may be temporarily preserved by simply using black pepper1 but the effect is not lasting4 ,the same is true of tannic acid1 but either of these1 alum1 or even common salt1 will do as a substitute for the preservative until the skins can be got into the hands of a taxidermist1 or until the collector can procure the proper preservative4 ,i will here mention that the dermal preservative costs only twenty-five cents per single pound1 and this quantity will preserve at least three times as many skins as the same amount of arsenic4 ,a good method by which large skins may be temporarily preserved is by salting them4 ,simply coat the inside of the skin with fine salt1 turn it1 smooth the feathers and fold the wings neatly1 then pack in paper4 ,the salt prevents the skin from quite drying1 and thus it can be moistened much more readily1 and made into a skin or mounted4 ,the advantage of packing large birds in so small a capacity is obvious to any one4 ,two collectors whom we have had out the past season have sent in some thousand large skins in this condition2 and these we shall endeavor to work up within six months' time1 as salted skins become quite brittle if allowed to lie too long4 ,they should be kept in a dry place1 as salt absorbs moisture1 which causes the skin to decay4 ,they are also liable after the first year to be attacked by dermestes and anthrenus4 ,birds which are in a bad condition through having been dead a long time may be sometimes skinned1 in case of rare specimens1 by using great care4 ,sprinkle the inside of the skin well with preservative1 as this tends to set the feathers1 being a stringent1 keeping the skin as straight as possible1 as folding it is liable to loosen the feathers4 ,the intestines of birds may be removed and the cavity salted when large birds are to be sent from a distance4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,making ,,skins4 ,,section ,i43 ,,cleaning ,,feathers4--,if a bird is bloody1 the feathers may be washed either in turpentine or water4 ,saturate a rag or piece of cotton1 and clean off the blood1 which if dry may require some soaking4 ,try to keep the water from spreading as much as possible1 but be sure that every particle of clotted blood is removed and the spot washed thoroughly4 ,then dry by covering the spot well with either plaster or dermal preservative1 the latter being preferable as it never bleaches the plumage4 ,this should be worked well into the feathers with a soft brush1 aided by the fingers1 applying a fresh supply constantly until all the moisture is absorbed2 then dust with a soft duster4 ,in case of grease-spots1 if fresh1 use the dermal preservative alone1 but if old and yellow use benzine to start the grease1 and then dry with preservative1 when it will generally be found that all stains will be removed2 but in some cases two or three applications of benzine may be necessary4 ,small spots of dried blood may often be removed from dark feathers by simply scraping with the thumb-nail1 aided by a moderately stiff brush1 much after the manner in which a living bird removes foreign substances from its plumage4 ,do not leave clotted spots of blood in the plumage1 as the feathers never lie well over them1 and such places are liable to be attacked by insects1 and even a spot of blood under the wing should1 in my opinion1 always be removed4 ,before any attempt is made either to make a bird into a skin or mount it1 it should be thoroughly cleansed4 ,stains of dirt may be removed with alcohol1 which dries more readily than water1 but it will not start blood as well as turpentine or water4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #h4 ,,section ,,ii43 ,,making ,,skins ,,of ,,small ,,birds4--,the instruments for skin-making are a flat brush1 a duster for cleansing1 three or four pairs of tweezers of varying sizes 7see ,fig4 #h71 needles1 curved or straight as preferred1 silk thread for sewing1 and soft cotton for winding1 and metal forms made of rolled tin or zinc 7,fig4 #i74 ,lay the skin on its back1 and push the single bones left on the forearm into the skin1 then fasten them by taking a stitch through the skin near the base of the wing2 then1 passing the thread around the bone1 tie it firmly4 ,now with the same thread1 uncut1 sew the other bone in a similar manner1 leaving the two connected by a piece of thread which is about as long as the natural width of the body of the bird1 thus the wings are kept the same distance apart as they were formerly4 ,now take a piece of cotton and form it into a rough body as near as possible in size to the one removed1 but having a tapering neck of about the length of nature4 ,now grasp this firmly in the tweezers1 and place it1 neck foremost1 in the skin1 taking care that the point of the tweezers enters the brain cavity of the skull1 so that the cotton may fill it1 and projecting downward1 form the throat2 now allow the tweezers to open1 and slip them out4 ,open the eyelids1 arranging them neatly over the rounded cotton beneath4 ,see that the bones of the wing lie along the sides1 as they are liable to become pushed forward in putting in the cotton4 ,this can be remedied by raising the cotton gently4 ,if the cotton body has been placed in the proper position the neck will be full1 but not over stuffed1 and of just the right length to form a skin that has the appearance and size of a freshly-killed bird lying on its back with the head straight4 ,the bill should be horizontal with the bench on which the bird lies1 and from which the specimen should not be raised while at work on it4 ,now roll the skin over and examine the back2 see that the wing feathers1 especially the scapularies1 lie in regular rotation1 and that they have not been pushed one above the other2 and the same attention should be given to the tail4 ,note if the feathers of the back lie neatly over the scapularies1 and these in turn1 should be over the wing-coverts2 in short1 all should blend neatly1 forming a smoothly rounded back4 ,now place the skin1 back down1 in the form1 lifting1 by placing the thumb and forefinger on either side of the shoulders1 which is the proper way to handle a small skin1 even when dry4 ,in placing the skin in the form1 care should be used that the cotton does not slip out of the skull1 causing the head to fall down4 ,see if the tip of the wings are of equal length2 if not make them so by drawing one wing downward1 and pushing the other up toward the head1 but do not pull them out of place at the shoulders4 ,be careful that the wings are placed high enough on the back4 ,this is easily ascertained1 if the closed tips of the primaries lie perfectly flat on the bottom of the form with their inner edges nearly downward4 ,now smooth the feathers with a pair of tweezers1 placing the feathers of the sides that come below the sparrow's wing inside the wing2 above this they will lie outside4 ,always bear in mind that although a skin can be made perfectly smooth by an expert in from eight to fifteen minutes1 one who is not accustomed to the work will be obliged to occupy a much longer time1 as a skin cannot be made too smooth4 ,arrange all spots and lines on the feathers as they occur in life1 especially about the head or on the back2 in fact1 too much attention cannot be given to these details1 before and after a skin is placed in the form1 if one wishes to turn out a first-class specimen4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #i4 ,now bind the skin with soft cotton thread1 used on bobbins in the mills1 beginning at the lower portions of the wings1 and winding the thread over the body and under the form1 so that the threads lie about a quarter of an inch apart1 ending with the throat4 ,now arrange all the feathers which may have become disarranged under the threads1 and place the skin away to dry where there is no draft1 for a slight breeze will be sure to blow some of the feathers out of place4 7,for the form of a skin1 see ,fig4 #aj47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,another method of making skins which may be practised to advantage is as follows3 ,after the skin is ready to place in the form1 wrap it closely in a very thin layer of nice cotton batting1 taking care that the feathers lie perfectly smooth1 although these may be partially arranged through the cotton1 which must be thin enough for the feathers to be seen through it4 ,the skin is then laid aside to dry without placing in the form4 ,skins should not be exposed to too great artificial heat1 neither should they be left to dry during damp weather in a room without a fire4 ,small birds1 like warblers1 will set perfectly hard in forty-eight hours in a moderate temperature with dry air4 ,never allow a skin to freeze4 ,,section ,,iii43 ,,making ,,skins ,,of ,,long-,,necked ,,birds4--,sandpipers1 thin-necked woodpeckers1 or any birds1 the necks of which are liable to become broken1 should have a wire placed in the neck to support and strengthen it4 ,proceed in sewing the wing-bones as directed in small skins2 then make a body of cotton around the end of a wire that has about an inch of the end bent into the form of a hook1 and then the body may be wrapped about the wire with some of the winding cotton4 ,the neck-wire should project from the body for about the same length as the natural neck1 or a little more4 ,this neck-wire should also be wrapped with cotton to the size of the natural neck1 but rather thicker where it joins the body4 ,a small portion of this wire which has been sharpened1 as hereafter to be directed1 should project beyond the body4 ,now place the body in position inside of the skin1 forcing the point of the wire into the skull1 up into the base of the upper mandible as far as it will go4 ,the heads of long-billed birds may be turned on one side1 but in this case the bill will be placed to a greater or less angle4 ,sew up specimen as before2 arrange and place in a long form and bind4 ,the legs of such birds as yellow-legs may be stitched together at the tibial joint1 then bent toward the sides1 and the toes stitched to the skin4 ,in making skins of all birds where the back of the head is opened1 the orifice should not be sewed up until after the wire has been inserted in the upper mandible1 as it may be necessary to add more cotton through here to make the throat or back of the head as full as in life4 ,sew up this orifice by taking fine stitches in only the extreme edge of the skin1 and the same caution must be exercised in sewing up accidental tears in the skin4 ,very tender skins may have tears mended by pasting tissue-paper neatly over the holes from the inside4 ,in fact it is best to sew up tears from the inside1 always using silk thread for the purpose4 ,,section ,,iv43 ,,making ,,skins ,,of ,,herons1 ,,ibises1 ,,etc4--,proceed exactly as in long-necked birds1 but to make a compact skin lay the bird breast down1 and turn the head and neck on the back1 and fasten the legs to the sides4 ,i always wire the necks1 and for additional security1 to prevent them being straightened by careless or inexperienced persons1 ,i stitch the bill to the skin of the back4 ,in addition to sewing on the inside of the wing1 stitch the wing firmly to the inside1 by sewing over the outer primary into a pinch of skin on the side1 thus the wing is fastened in two places4 ,ducks' skins may be made in a similar manner1 but the feathers of the side must be brought over the wings1 and the webs of the feet may be spread with a wire1 which must be removed1 however1 when the feet are dry1 or it will rust2 and galvanized or brass wire is the best for making skins4 ,,section ,v43 ,,hawks1 ,,owls1 ,,eagles1 ,,vultures1 ,,etc4--,the skins of these large birds are made in forms1 but the wings must be stitched to the sides1 as in herons1 etc4 ,the necks must be wired4 ,in making the skins of all large birds it is best to use bodies made of excelsior or grass1 rather than cotton1 which does not make a firm enough body4 ,see remarks under mounting for instructions for making bodies2 but they do not need to be quite as solid for skins as in mounting2 in fact1 keep them as light as possible4 ,too much care cannot be taken in forming the eyelids of all birds1 especially large ones4 ,have the cavity occupied by the eye round1 with the cotton lying smoothly inside1 and not projecting in a ragged manner4 ,,section ,,vi43 ,,labelling ,,specimens4--,a skin is of little value unless labelled with date1 locality1 and sex4 ,never lay a bird one side without a label is firmly attached to one foot or other part4 ,the sex of birds is indicated by the astronomical signs of the planets2 ,mars 7,m7 and ,venus 7,v71 the former being1 as is obvious1 the mark for males and the latter for females4 ,to keep these in mind one has only to remember1 that that of ,mars is a conventionalized spear and shield1 indications of his warlike profession1 while that of ,venus is supposed to represent a looking-glass1 an article so indispensable to feminine taste4 ,i use blank forms for labels1 and the simpler the better2 thus1 below is one which ,i used during my last expedition to ,florida3-- ----------------------------------- ,,explorations ,,in ,,florida1 ,by ,c4 ,j4 ,maynard ,co41 #i ,pemberton ,square1 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,rosewood1 ,nov4 #aj1 #ahha4 ,m ----------------------------------- ,the sex of either1 male or female1 is printed1 but at least two-thirds as many males as females are needed2 while any notes regarding the color of feet1 bill1 and iris of each specimen may be written on the back4 ,the size given is the one used for specimens from the size of a humming-bird to that of a golden-winged woodpecker4 ,the labels of ducks and herons may be attached to the beak by securing through the nostrils1 as then they are more readily found4 ,it is well to keep in mind that in order to have any value as a scientific specimen1 a bird must be labelled as near as possible with date1 locality1 and sex1 but never guess at either4 ,if you have a skin in your possession that you are not absolutely certain about1 either label it with an interrogation mark filling the part of which you are in doubt1 or do not label it at all4 ,thus if you are unable to determine the sex satisfactorily1 say so by drawing a line through the sex mark and substituting a query 7874 ,,section ,,vii43 ,,care ,,of ,,skins1 ,,cabinets1 ,,etc4--,when skins are removed from the forms they should be dusted with a light feather-duster1 striking them gently from the head downward so as not to ruffle the plumage4 ,although skins are well preserved from the attacks of demestes and anthrenus1 which feed upon the skin1 yet the feathers are always liable to be attacked by moths1 while the skin on the feet or bills is also liable to be eaten4 ,this may be prevented by washing the parts with a solution of bleached shelac dissolved in alcohol4 ,by far the best way to insure absolute safety is to shut up the skins in insect-proof cabinets4 ,various methods have been tried to prevent the ingress of moths1 etc41 in cabinets1 but the best and simplest is to have a door fitted to the outside of the drawers of an otherwise perfectly jointed cabinet4 ,this door is provided with a bead which surrounds the outside and fits in a groove on the margin of the woodwork outside the drawers1 while the whole door fits in a groove which extends quite across the bottom4 ,another method which we practise on our latest-made cabinets is to have each drawer moth-proof1 by having a margin made all around it which fits into a groove1 then all the drawers are covered by closing a flange on the sides4 ,,section ,,viii43 ,,measuring ,,specimens4--,specimens of all rare birds should be measured4 ,with the beginner1 it is best to measure every specimen4 ,i measured some fifteen thousand birds before ,i made a single skin without so doing1 and now ,i am careful to take the dimensions of all rare specimens4 ,the dimensions of a bird are taken as follows1 using dividers and a rule marked in hundredths of the inch3 ,first measure the extreme length from the tip of bill to end of tail2 then the extreme stretch of wing from tip to tip2 then the length of one wing from the scapular joint to tip of longest quill2 next1 the length of tail from end of longest feather to its base at the insertion in the muscles2 now the length of bill along culmen or chord of upper mandibles2 and of tarsus from tarsal joint to base of toes4 ,i have a blank sheet ruled1 and fill it out as per sample 7page #fb74 ,,campephilus ,,principalis4 ------------------------------------ ,no4 #aicf #aicg #aich ------------------------------------ ,sex4 ,m ,f ,m ------------------------------------ ,gulf ,locality4 ,hummock1 ,fla4 ------------------------------------ ,date4 ,nov4 #bj1 #ahhb ------------------------------------ ,length4 #bj4ce #ai4ge #ba4jj ------------------------------------ ,stretch4 #ca4jj #cj4jj #cb4jj ------------------------------------ ,wing4 #i4cj #i4jj #i4fj ------------------------------------ ,tail4 #f4ce #f4be #f4ej ------------------------------------ ,bill4 #b4ge #b4fe #b4hj ------------------------------------ ,tarsus4 #a4hj #a4fj #b4jj ----------------------------------- ,eye4 ,yellow --------------------------- ,color of,bill4 ,ivory white --------------------------- ,feet4,greenish ----------------------------------- ,remarks4 ,plumage1 new ------------------------------------ ,,section ,,ix43 ,,making ,,over ,,old ,,skins4--,sometimes it is desirable in case of rare birds to make over into presentable skins specimens which have been improperly prepared4 ,prepare a dampening box by placing a quantity of sand1 dampened so as to just drip water1 in any metal vessel having a tight-fitting cover4 ,then wrap the specimen to be made over in paper1 lay it on the sand1 and cover with a damp cloth folded several times4 ,place the cover on the vessel and set in a moderately warm place for about twenty-four hours if the specimen be small1 longer if large4 ,at the end of this time the skin will be quite pliable4 ,then remove the cotton and examine the inside of the skin carefully1 and if there are any hard places caused by the skin being too thick1 scrape them down with a blunt knife or1 better1 use our skin-rasp1 and thus thin them down until the feathers above are as flexible as in any other portion4 ,if there be grease on the feathers or inside of the skin after scraping1 wash with benzine1 and dry with preservative as described4 ,when every portion of the specimen is perfectly pliable1 and all superfluous dried flesh has been removed1 sew up the rents1 and make up as in fresh birds1 but such skins generally require more careful binding4 ,it is also often necessary to wire the neck of even small birds1 especially in badly shattered and decayed skins4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,mounting ,,birds4 ,,section ,i43 ,,instruments4--,the instruments necessary for mounting are cutting pliers 7,fig4 #ab71 or tin shears1 straight-nosed pliers 7,fig4 #aa71 wire of various sizes1 tweezers1 and other implements used in skin-making2 leg awls1 for dried skins1 and awls for boring stands2 also stands of various kinds4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,,section ,,ii43 ,,mounting ,,from ,,fresh ,,specimens4--,be sure that a skin is perfectly clean in every way before attempting to mount1 as it cannot be washed nearly as well afterwards4 ,remove all the bodies of skinned specimens well out of the way1 and spread a clean sheet of paper where the skinning has been done1 that there may be no danger of soiling the plumage4 ,make a body of fine grass1 excelsior1 or1 better1 the peculiar tough grass which grows in shady places1 in sandy soil1 is preferable1 by winding with thread1 moulding it so as to have it quite solid1 shaping it in the hands until it assumes the exact length and breadth of the body removed1 and as near its form as possible4 ,thus see that the back is fuller than the under side1 and that there is a well-defined breast4 ,great care should be taken not to get this body larger than the natural one2 if anything it should be smaller4 ,with the pliers cut a piece of wire of the proper size1 that is1 of about half the diameter of the bird's tarsus1 and about three times the length of the body4 ,in cutting all wires which are to be sharpened1 the cut should be made diagonally across it1 thus forming a point4 ,push this wire through the body so that it will emerge in the front much nearer the back than the breast1 protruding so that it equals the length of the neck and tongue of body removed4 ,bend over the end remaining at the back1 turn down about half of it and force it into the body 7,fig4 #ac1 c74 ,this will hold firmly if the body has been made sufficiently solid4 ,wrap the wire with cotton by taking a strip and winding it gradually so that it assumes a tapering form with a portion of the wire protruding4 ,place this body in the skin and push the protruding wire into the upper mandible4 ,cut two wires of about half the size of that already used1 and twice the length of the outstretched wing4 ,work these into the wings1 beginning at the fleshy portion of the phalanges1 so on into the body1 taking care not to allow it to pierce through the skin anywhere4 ,the wire should enter the body at the point where the end of the lower portion of the forearm touches it when the wing is folded naturally4 ,pass the wire through the body diagonally until it emerges so that it can be grasped with the pliers somewhere near the orifice1 and firmly clenched4 ,next find the metacarpal bone1 which has a hollow place in the centre 7,fig4 #ad1 f71 and force the upper end of the wire through it so that about a quarter of inch shall protrude on the upper side of the wing1 and bend this down by applying one jaw of the flat pliers on the side of the wing opposite4 ,this will fasten the wing firmly1 and the spurious wing will cover the wire1 while that on the lower side will be concealed by the feathers4 ,the wing should be outstretched when this is done4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,cut wire for the legs of the same size as used for the neck1 and about as long4 ,pass them up through the tarsus1 inserting in the middle of the sole of the foot4 ,be sure the wire is perfectly straight before attempting this4 ,a good way to straighten wire is to place a pine-board on the floor1 stand on it1 and then draw a long pull of wire under it by grasping the end with pliers2 or a small piece of wire may be straightened by rolling it on the bench with a file4 ,if the skin of the tarsus splits in boring1 it shows that the wire used is either too large or crooked4 ,after the wire is pushed up to the heel or tarsal joint 7,fig4 #ae1 f71 turn the tibial bone out until the point of the wire appears1 when it should be grasped and drawn up so that the point protrudes slightly beyond the tibial joint4 ,wrap the tibial bone1 wire and all1 with cotton or tow 7in large specimens1 the wire should be bound to the bone with fine wire or thread7 so as to form a natural leg1 then draw it back into the skin4 ,next force the wire through the body at the point where the knee touches it1 or about midway on the side4 ,the wire will emerge on the opposite side4 ,turn down the skin of the orifice1 draw the wire out1 leaving about enough projecting out of the sole of the foot to go through the perch of a stand and clench2 then fasten the end firmly into the body4 ,on large birds1 like eagles1 ,i draw the wire through the body twice before clenching1 to make all secure4 ,this work must be well done if the bird is to be mounted nicely1 as it must stand firmly on its feet4 ,as a rule1 use wire large enough1 at least1 to support the weight of the body and skin without bending1 but wire one-half the size of the tarsus is generally large enough to do this4 ,cut a tail-wire which is at least as long as the entire bird4 ,insert it under the tail1 so that it enters the muscles in which the feathers are embodied1 taking care that it does not spread them apart2 push this up the centre of the body so that it will emerge at an angle just at the upper portion of the orifice1 and clench it4 ,bend the remaining end under the tail twice1 so as to form a ,t1 on which the tail may rest1 and which should1 however1 have the top broad enough to spread the tail on to the required width4 ,during wiring see that the plumage is ruffled as little as possible2 also avoid soiling by keeping the specimen on clean paper4 ,if by chance the feathers become greasy1 they may be cleaned by sprinkling liberally with the dermal preservative1 which is afterward brushed off4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,sew up the orifice neatly1 taking care1 as before described1 only to take in the extreme outer edge of the skin2 and1 if the body be not too large1 it will meet nicely4 ,if the body has not been made quite large enough1 especially on the breast1 some cotton may be placed between the skin and body before sewing4 ,this must be done neatly1 with tweezers however1 not so as to form a wad1 but spread out so as to blend neatly with the curve of the body4 ,now place the wires which protrude from the feet in holes bored in the perch of the stand1 which should be about as far apart as the bird naturally stands while perching4 ,see that the feet come well down on the perch with the toes arranged properly1 remembering that cuckoos1 woodpeckers1 etc41 have two toes in front and two behind1 while with hawks1 owls1 etc41 the outer toe generally stands at right angles with the others1 and should therefore grasp the end of the stand4 ,either twist the ends of the wire together or wind them around the stand very firmly4 ,now comes the most difficult part of the task of mounting4 ,hitherto all has been merely mechanical2 certain rules had to be observed only4 ,but now the instructor must pause for want of words wherewith to express his meaning1 for who can tell an artist how to put in those bold and hasty strokes with which he maps out his picture8 ,he knows just what he is about1 however1 for he has before his mental vision the complete picture1 and strives to place on canvas that which appears before him4 ,so must the artistic taxidermist have before him a vision of the bird he wishes to represent1 with the combined mass of feathers now in hand4 ,whether lightly poised for flight or calmly sitting at rest1 before he puts his hand to the work before him let him fully decide what he wishes to produce4 ,let him see it just as clearly as he sees the birds sporting in their natural element4 ,the true artist does not copy what the imagination of others have produced1 he invents for himself or takes nature as his guide4 ,let us then who aspire to the highest in taxidermal art1 take infallible nature as our guide4 ,study carefully every poise of the birds1 every uplifting of the wing1 every turn of the head or motion of the eyelids4 ,i have long made a practice of keeping birds in confinement in order to thoroughly impress on my mind the different attitudes which they assume4 ,i have had nearly all species of our owls1 hawks1 and eagles1 and have kept herons1 gulls1 terns1 pelicans1 auks1 and almost countless numbers of smaller birds1 and in this way ,i have become so familiar with them that ,i can tell at a glance whether a bird is mounted in an easy attitude4 ,well1 there must be no hesitation in mounting birds1 or the specimens will dry2 and ,i will merely state in what order ,i arrange the different members1 then leave the attitudes to my pupils4 ,i first see that the bird stands correctly1 that the legs are bent so that the bird will balance well in the position in which ,i wish it to be placed4 ,as a rule1 a perpendicular line drawn through the back of the head of a perching bird will fall through its feet 7see ,fig4 #af1 a a74 ,now bring the bird into position1 and fold the wings just as the bird does it4 ,note if the scapularies1 tertiaries1 and secondaries lie in their proper places1 the first highest and the others under them1 which will give the bird a good rounded back4 ,now place the bird in the proper attitude1 with the neck properly bent1 remembering that in nearly all birds this nearly assumes the form of the letter ,s1 especially in long-necked species4 ,i do not like to see a bird staring straight forward1 but1 as this is a mere matter of fancy1 ,i will not presume to dictate regarding attitudes1 only make the specimen look easy4 ,be artistic1 even if the specimen is going into a public museum1 where birds too often stare at the visitors in grotesque attitudes4 ,one can be interesting and easy even in writing on the driest scientific subject1--why not then give ease and grace to our museum specimens8 ,no more room need be occupied2 a slight turn of the head1 a twist of the neck1 or an advance of a foot1 will do this just as a bird would do it if it were alive4 ,now place the eyes in position1 and these should be pushed well into the clay1 and the lids arranged over them naturally with a needle4 ,do not have the eyes too large1 as it gives the bird a staring expression1 nor too small1 but as near as possible to the natural ones removed4 ,it would be well in ordering eyes from a dealer to give the measurements of the required eye in hundredths of an inch4 ,a good colored eye should not1 in my opinion1 have too much clear or flint glass in front of the pupil4 ,this should be thinner and thus flatter1 as seen in eyes of ,german manufacture4 ,in point of perfect coloring1 ,french eyes are the best and most expressive1 but they do not have the requisite flatness and the thinness of flint which the ,german eyes possess4 ,english eyes may be mentioned as third in the catalogue of quality1 while ,america must unfortunately come last4 ,the above remarks1 however1 are true only as regards colored eyes1 as black eyes are almost always good1 no matter where manufactured4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #af4 ,after the bird is placed in the required attitude1 smooth the feathers with the aid of small tweezers1 noting that all lines and spots are in their proper places4 ,the primary quills should be kept in position by clamping with fine wire2 that is1 a piece of wire should be bent on itself like a hairpin and slipped over the edge of the wing4 ,spread the tail by laying it on the cross-piece of wire under it1 and clamp it down with a piece of very fine wire1 which is wound around each end of the cross-piece4 ,if the tail is to be spread very widely then run a wire through the two outer quills1 thus keeping them apart2 though even then the clamp should be used4 ,if a convex or concave tail is desired1 bind the cross-piece in a corresponding manner4 ,i do not1 as a rule1 recommend binding freshly-skinned birds1 nor do ,i consider it necessary excepting in instances where feathers are rough4 ,if a bird be properly mounted a few more clamps on the wings will keep it in form2 then the feathers can be made to stand out as they do in nature1 not lie down close to the body as if the birds were badly frightened4 ,this is particularly noticeable with owls2 a perfectly happy and contented owl1 who is pursuing his vocations1 has apparently a body nearly or quite twice the diameter of one that is frightened4 ,,section ,,iii43 ,,crested ,,birds4--,if a bird has a crest it should be raised by gently pulling forward the skin1 where it will remain in position after it is neatly arranged2 but in case of a dried skin1 it may be necessary to prop the crest up with a piece of cotton1 moulded on the head of a pin1 the point of which is sunk into the head4 ,,section ,,iv43 ,,mounting ,,with ,,wings ,,spread4--,in skinning for spread wings1 leave in the humerus as well as the forearm1 and do not detach the quills1 as already mentioned4 ,wire the wing from the inside1 and clench firmly in the body2 wrap the humerus to the natural size with cotton1 after fastening the supporting wire to the bone with fine wire or thread4 ,push both wires into the shoulders of the artificial body at once1 at the same time pushing the neck-wire and body into position4 ,this can be learned by practice4 ,proceed as before1 but support the wings while setting on either side by long wire clamps4 ,be sure1 however1 that the supporting wire is strong enough to hold the wing in position without these1 and thus when the wings are dry they will be very strong4 ,,section ,v43 ,,mounting ,,birds ,,for ,,screens1 ,,etc4--,proceed as in specimens with wings spread1 but sometimes the wings should be cut off1 sewed on on opposite sides1 so that they may be reversed2 that is1 the back of the wing may be toward the breast in cases where it is desired that the back of the wings and breast should show4 ,it is usual to stretch the wings up over the head1 which emerges between them4 ,the wings had better be kept in position with strips of pasteboard fastened together with wire4 ,sometimes both sides of the specimen show2 or1 in other instances1 the back is covered with paper1 silk1 velvet1 or other material4 ,,section ,,vi43 ,,mounting ,,dried ,,skins4--,soften as directed in making over dried skins1 observing the caution given under that section1 and have the skin very pliable4 ,the cavities of the eyes may be filled from the mouth or from the inside of the skin4 ,if the skin be too tender to turn1 rasp it down by working through the orifice4 ,mount as directed in fresh specimens1 but dried skins almost always require to be bound with winding cotton in order to keep the feathers in place4 ,they also require rather more harder filling with cotton4 ,this should be wrapped around the bird in as continuous a string as possible until all the feathers lie smoothly4 ,they may be arranged under the bindings with small tweezers4 ,avoid binding too closely or too tight1 and above all things bind evenly1 that is1 do not make depressions nor allow elevations to appear1 for1 as a rule1 these will always remain after the bindings have been removed4 ,small birds should be allowed to stand at least a week in a dry place before the bindings are removed4 ,birds mounted from skins dry more quickly than from fresh specimens4 ,large birds should stand from two weeks to a month1 especially if the wings be spread4 ,to remove the binding threads1 cut down the back1 thus taking it all off at once4 ,,section ,,vii43 ,,prices ,,for ,,mounting ,,birds4--,for the convenience of amateurs1 who do not always know what price to put on good work1 we give our price list for mounting specimens on ornamental stands4 ,size from humming-bird to robin1 one dollar and twenty five cents2 robin to wild pigeon1 one dollar and fifty cents2 wild pigeon to grouse1 two dollars2 grouse1 ducks1 small owls1 two dollars and fifty cents2 large hawks and medium-sized owls1 three dollars and fifty cents2 loons and large owls1 five dollars2 eagles1 seven dollars4 ,for birds with spread wings1 add thirty-three and one-third per cent4 ,,section ,,viii43 ,,panel ,,work4--,,game ,,pieces1 ,,etc4--,panel work is made by using only half of a specimen1 the back side being turned in or removed4 ,the specimen is mounted as usual and fastened to the picture or other design used as a back ground1 by wires emerging from the side and firmly clenched in the body4 ,game pieces are made by simply mounting the specimen1 then placing it in an attitude as if it were hanging dead4 ,much skill and study is required for work of this nature1 for if carelessly done1 it has the effect of a poor painting1 but if well completed both panel and game pieces produce a pleasing effect4 ,all such work should be usually placed behind glass1 as1 in fact1 is true with all mounted birds1 especially light-plumaged birds1 which are liable to become soiled through exposure to dust4 ,mounted birds1 not kept in moth-proof cases1 should be carefully dusted at least twice a week to prevent the attacks of moths4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,making ,,stands4 ,,section ,i43 ,,plain ,,stands4--,the best stands for the cabinet are simple wooden ones1 either of pine or other woods1 turned by machinery with a simple cross-piece for perching birds4 ,as a rule1 the shaft should be about as high as the cross-piece is long1 but in cases of specimens with long tails1 the shaft should be somewhat higher1 while the base should a little exceed in diameter the length of the perch1 and should be about as thick as the shortest diameter of the other parts4 ,,section ,,ii43 ,,ornamental ,,stands4--,papier-mach used for making ornamental stands is quite difficult to make1 but following is the receipt3 ,reduce paper to a perfect pulp by boiling and then rubbing through a sieve4 ,to every quart of this pulp add a pint of fine wood-ashes and a half pint of plaster4 ,heat this mass over the fire1 and to every quart add a quarter of a pound of glue1 which has been thoroughly dissolved in a glue-pot4 ,mix well until it is of the consistency of putty1 when it is ready for use4 ,in making a twig for an ordinary perch1 fasten a moderately stout wire in a wooden base2 wind it with cotton1 larger at the base1 tapering toward the end2 bend it in a position and cover with a layer of papier-mach1 then with a comb indicate the ridges in the bark of a tree1 and add knots and excrescences as desired1 by moulding small pieces with the fingers4 ,set aside to dry for a few days4 ,if the papier-mach cracks it does not contain a sufficient quantity of glue1 or if it shrinks too much1 more ashes or plaster should be added4 ,when dry paint with water-colors1 made by adding dry paint to dissolved white glue1 stirring until the mixture becomes of the consistency of cream4 ,a quarter of a pound of glue will take up a pound of paint4 ,cover the bottom of the stand with this paint1 or with some other color1 then sprinkle profusely with smalt or mica sand4 ,when dry1 add artificial leaves to the branches by winding the stems around them4 ,trim the bottom of the stand with mosses and grass fastened on with glue4 ,stands for cases are made in a similar manner1 but it is an improvement to touch the ground-work here and there with dry paint of various colors4 ,a piece of looking-glass may be used to imitate water2 and ducks from which the lower portions have been cut away may be placed on this with a good effect4 ,a very good stand may be made by simply winding a wire with cotton and painting the cotton4 ,the cotton can be made into a species of papier-mach by soaking it in flour-paste4 ,rock work is made of either papier-mach1 cork1 blocks of wood1 or pieces of turf painted and sanded1 or by pasting stout paper over pieces of wood1 and the whole structure painted and sanded4 ,if papier-mach be used the effect may be heightened by sticking in pieces of quartz or other rock4 ,natural stumps1 branches1 etc41 may be manufactured into stands or cases to advantage2 in short1 with the aid of papier-mach1 glue1 moss1 grasses1 smalt1 etc41 nature may be imitated in a variety of ways4 ,,part ,,ii4--,,mammals1 ,,reptiles1 ,,etc4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,collecting ,,mammals4 ,mammals are1 as a rule1 much more difficult to procure than birds1 especially the smaller species4 ,mice occur in all localities4 ,the white-footed mice are often found in the deserted nests of squirrels or of crows in the tree-tops4 ,jumping-mice are found in the meadows1 under haycocks or in nests deep in the earth during winter1 at which time they are in a dormant condition4 ,field-mice of several species occur in the meadows1 where they have nests1 while the house-mouse and several species of mice inhabit dwellings4 ,all these little rodents may be trapped by using a variety of bait1 and the same is true of squirrels1 which are1 however1 quite easy to shoot4 ,the gray1 red1 and flying-squirrels live in nests placed in bushes or trees or in holes in tree-trunks4 ,shrews and moles burrow in the ground1 and they may be snared by setting fine wire nooses in their holes4 ,cats often bring in these little mammals and leave them lying around1 as they rarely eat them4 ,a pit dug in an open field or a barrel set down with the top on a level with the ground and half filled with water will be the means of capturing many rare1 small mammals which fall into it accidentally4 ,mink1 weasel1 otter1 rabbits1 skunks1 etc41 may be trapped or shot4 ,a variety of bait may be used to decoy animals of this class1 and the contents of the scent-bags of any of these species are good2 as well as fish1 birds1 or small mammals4 ,foxes1 wolves1 etc41 which occur in the wilder sections1 may be shot or trapped1 and the same is true of wild-cats1 pumas1 and other large mammals1 in procuring which the hunter must be guided by circumstances4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,making ,,skins ,,of ,,mammals4 ,,section ,i43 ,,skinning ,,small ,,mammals4--,lay the animal on its back1 make an incision about one-third of the length of the body on the under side of the body from the vent forward1 peel down on either side until the knee-bones are exposed1 then cut the joint and draw out the leg1 at least as far as the heel4 ,remove the flesh1 cover well with preservative1 and turn1 then proceed thus with the opposite leg4 ,pull down to the tail and draw out the bone by placing a stick on the under side of it and pressing backward4 ,if the tail bone does not readily come out1 as in musk-rats1 wrap the tail in cloth and pound it with a wooden mallet1 and it will then come out without further trouble4 ,peel down on either side until the front legs appear1 cut off at elbow joints1 and draw these out2 remove the flesh1 cover with preservative1 and turn4 ,skin over the head1 taking care to cut off the ear next the skull1 so as not to cut through into the exterior surface2 pull down the edges1 cut between the lids and eye-sockets down to the lips1 cut between these and the bone1 but near the latter1 thus removing the skin entirely from the skull2 cover the skin well with preservative1 after removing all fat and surplus bits of flesh4 ,then turn the skin1 detach the skull from the body1 by carefully cutting between the atlas1 the last vertebra joint1 and the skull4 ,the skull should be boiled to remove all the flesh and brain2 or1 if this cannot readily be done1 and if the mammal be very small1 roll it in preservative1 and lay it one side2 if the animal be large1 cut off all the flesh possible1 and work out the brain through the opening in the base of the skull4 ,it is always1 however1 best to remove the flesh by boiling2 after which care should be taken to tie the lower jaw firmly to the upper4 ,,section ,,ii43 ,,skinning ,,large ,,mammals4--,large mammals should be skinned by making a cross incision down the entire length of the breast1 between the fore-legs to the vent1 then down the under side of each leg quite to the feet4 ,remove the skin but leave in two bones and the joints in each leg4 ,in removing the horns of a deer or other ruminant1 make cross cuts between the horns1 and then back down on the neck for a short distance4 ,the lips of a large mammal should be split open carefully1 and the ears turned out quite to the tip2 this can be done with a little practice4 ,cover with preservative1 well rubbed in1 and dry as quickly as possible without tearing4 ,,section ,,iii43 ,,making ,,skins ,,of ,,mammals4--,remove all blood and dirt1 by either washing or by continuous brushing with a stiff brush4 ,dry off with preservative3 rub it well into the hair4 ,draw out the bones of the leg1 wrap them well with cotton to the original size of the leg2 then fill out the head to the size and form of life1 sewing up the neck1 and fill up to the body to the size of nature with cotton or tow4 ,sew up the orifice1 then lay the skin1 belly down1 with the feet laid neatly2 and if the tail is long1 lay it over the back4 ,mice and other small mammals should not have the bone of the tail removed1 as the skin cannot be filled and turned over the back easily4 ,large mammals may be also made up if they are to be used for cabinets or for skins4 ,,section ,,iv43 ,,measuring ,,mammals4--,it is quite as easy to measure mammals as birds4 ,the dimensions to be taken may be seen by the accompanying filled blank1 which is the form ,i always use4 ,arctomys monax4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,locality4 ,ipswich ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,age4 ,adult ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,sex4 ,m ,f ,f ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,date4 #ahfh4 ,aug4 #bb #bj #ac ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,no4 #eh #ee #dc ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,eye4 #a4ej #a4eg #a4cb ---------------------------------------- -------- ,ear4 #b4ie #b4hj #b4id ---------------------------------------- -------- ,nose to ,occiput4 #b4cj #c4de #c4de ---------------------------------------- -------- ,root of ,tail4 #ac4jj #ae4ej #ae4be ---------------------------------------- -------- ,outstretched ,hind ,leg4 #ae4jj #bj4ae #ai4ej ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,end of ,vertebra4 #d4ih #d4ej #e4de ,tail to ---------------------------------------- -------- ,end of ,hair4 #f4jj #f4ge #g4fj ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,hind ,leg4 #c4aj #b4hj #b4ie ---------------------------------------- -------- ,hand ,length4 #b4aj #a4he #b4je ---------------------------------------- -------- ,width4 4#gh 4#ib 4#gj ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,height of ,ear4 4#he 4#ge 4#fe ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,muzzle4 4#bj -- 4#ae ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,girth4 -- #ad4ej #i4ge ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,length4 -- -- -- ,skull499 ---------------------------------------- -------- ,width4 -- -- -- ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,remarks4 ,light ,top of colored4 head black4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- 99 ,this measurement is taken after the animal is skinned2 the width of skull is measured on the widest part1 the length on the longest part4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,mounting ,,mammals4 ,,section ,i43 ,,small ,,mammals4--,skin as directed1 but the skull should not1 as a rule1 be detached unless the animal be large enough to have the lips split4 ,the eye cavities should also be filled with clay4 ,cut a piece of wire of the suitable size to support the head2 have it about twice as long as the head and body of the specimen in hand4 ,wind up a turn or two with the pliers small enough to enter the cavity in the base of the skull1 which will have to be enlarged to admit of the ready removal of the brains4 ,place the wound portion of the wire in this cavity1 and fill in around it with either plaster of paris1 or tamp in excelsior1 tow1 or cotton firmly enough to hold the skull perfectly firm on the wire4 ,wind up a body of excelsior or grass1 as nearly the form and size of the one removed as possible1 taking care that the neck be of proper shape1 and that the surface be very smooth4 ,this surface may be covered with a thin layer of clay or of papier-mach1 if a very nice smooth surface is required1 in case of short-haired mammals4 ,cut four wires for the legs and one for the tail4 ,run the wire up the front legs1 and tie them firmly to the bone with fine wire1 especially at the joints4 ,now wind each leg with cotton1 hemp1 or tow to the size and form of the muscles removed4 ,in order to get the legs very exact1 one may be wound before the muscles of the other be removed1 and measurements may thus be taken4 ,the legs may be also covered with papier-mach or a thin layer of clay in short-haired mammals4 ,now place the body in position1 taking care that the wire of the head goes the entire length of the body1 and is firmly clinched4 ,the wires of the front legs should enter the body at the proper point on the shoulder4 ,the wires of the hind legs should also enter the body at the point near the back1 where they join the natural body4 ,run a wire the entire length of the tail and fasten in the lower end of the body4 ,see that all wires are firmly clinched1 and sew up the orifice4 ,bend the legs into as natural a position as possible1 and insert the wires protruding from the soles of the feet into the holes in the stand or perch2 bend the body in position1 insert the eyes1 arranging the lids carefully over them1 taking care the eye has the proper form in the corners4 ,arrange the eyelids and ears by occasionally moulding them into form as they dry4 ,smooth the tail carefully and attend to all the little details1 such as spreading the toes etc41 etc41 and carefully watch them from day to day1 until the animal becomes perfectly dry4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,,section ,,ii43 ,,large ,,mammals4--,in drawing the lines between mammals mounted as described above and the present method1 it may be well to remark that the one now given is the best in all cases1 but requires rather too much time to be used with very small specimens4 ,have five large wires or bolts of a suitable size to support the mammal mounted1 cut to the proper length1 and cut a screw on either end for about two inches 7,fig4 #ag1 a74 ,screw a broad flat nut on 7,fig4 #ag1 b71 then have another nut ready to screw on above the first4 ,prepare a strip of board a little shorter than the natural body of the mammal1 and in this bore four holes1 two at each end1 with one extra between the two1 but a little back of them on the front end4 ,after bending the bolts so as to form the legs1 place the ends in the holes and screw on the nuts1 place the lower ends of the irons in the holes in the stand and screw on the nuts1 thus the beginning of the structure will stand firm4 ,fasten the end of the fifth iron firmly in the brain cavity by filling in with plaster1 or wedging in pieces of wood1 and screw the lower end in place4 ,now wind excelsior on the legs to the proper size and form2 cover it with a thin layer of cotton4 ,then place on the body in sections of excelsior of exactly the form and size of life1 and cover with clay4 ,the neck is now to be formed in the same way2 of course to get all the parts accurate1 one must have the natural body1 which has been removed1 at hand1 or should have the correct measurement of it4 ,the skin1 from which the leg bones have been removed quite to the toe-nails1 may be fitted on occasionally to judge the effect4 ,procure sheet lead1 and1 if too thick1 beat it out2 cut it in the form of the cartilage removed from the ear4 ,fasten wire into these pieces of lead with the ends protruding downward2 bore holes in the skull into which the ends are introduced1 thus forming the support1 and keeping the ears in proper position4 ,supply the muscles of the skull with excelsior and clay or papier-mach1 then adjust the skin firmly and sew up4 ,fill the lips and nose with papier-mach or clay1 and mould into shape4 ,the above instructions1 if followed1 will give a mounted specimen1 but ,i cannot convey the ideas which must teach the student the exact poise1 the swell of the muscle1 the exact shape of the eye which will give life and beauty to the subject in hand2 all these must come from patience1 study1 and long practice1 for skilful taxidermists do not spring at once into existence1 but require experience and careful education4 ,,section ,,iii43 ,,mounting ,,dried ,,skins ,,of ,,mammals4--,skins of mammals must be soaked in a strong solution of alum water1 and when perfectly soft see that the parts above the lips1 eyes1 etc41 are peeled down quite thin1 and that every portion of the skin is perfectly pliable1 then it should be moistened as described4 ,,section ,,iv43 ,,mounting ,,mammals ,,without ,,any ,,bones4--,if the skull of a mammal be desired for a skeleton1 a cast may be taken of the entire head before the flesh is removed1 by placing the head in a box which will contain it and leave a space around it2 pour in plaster of paris to the consistency of cream1 until the head is about half covered--which should be placed on the bottom of the box1 lower jaw down--let the plaster set2 now cover the top surface of the plaster with paint1 or oil1 or paste paper over it4 ,then fill up the box with fresh plaster3 after this has set well remove the side of the box and open the mould where the joint was made with the paint or paper4 ,take out the head1 and then cut a hole in the mould at the base of the skull1 in which the plaster for the head may be poured4 ,paint or oil the inside of the mould everywhere1 fit the pieces together1 then tie firmly and pour in the plaster for the mould2 then insert the bolt for the head in the hole1 and let the plaster set around it4 ,remove the mould by chipping off pieces with a chisel until the paint surface is exposed4 ,if the head be large and heavy1 a large ball of excelsior1 in which the bolt is firmly fastened1 may be placed in the centre1 but this must be covered with a thin layer of clay to make it impervious to plaster4 ,the lips and other naked spaces must be painted the color of life1 with paint mixed with varnish1 first filling out the imperfections with paraffine wax4 ,casts may be taken of the larger in wax1 making a mould in plaster4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,mounting ,,reptiles1 ,,batrachians1 ,,and ,,fishes4 ,mounting reptiles1 batrachians1 and fishes as collected in this department is scarcely a part of taxidermy4 ,i shall only give general instructions regarding mounting some species4 ,snakes may be readily skinned by cutting a longitudinal insertion about a fourth of the distance down from the head on the lower side where the body begins to enlarge1 near its greatest diameter2 then the skin may be speedily taken off both ways4 ,when the vent is reached the skin comes away harder1 but in order to make a perfect piece of work it must be skinned quite to the end of the tail1 even if it splits open2 the eyes must be removed from the inside of the head4 ,the skin on the top of the head cannot be removed in this class of animals1 leaving the jaw and skull4 ,cover well with preservative1 and turn the skin4 ,to mount1 two ways are practised1 one with plaster1 in which the orifice on the inside and the vent are sewed up1 and the plaster poured into the mouth until the snake is filled4 ,it is well1 however1 to place a copper wire the entire length of the animal to strengthen it2 then before the plaster is set1 place the snake in the proper attitude4 ,this kind of work requires practice1 as you must be careful of the attitude in which you wish to place the animal1 as the plaster begins to set quite quickly2 to make it set more slowly1 however1 mix in a little salt4 ,the mouth should be filled up with clay or plaster4 ,care should be taken that water does not accumulate in any portion of the skin1 and it should be perforated with an awl occasionally to allow the water to escape4 ,the skin of a snake may be filled with papier-mach by working small pieces downward2 then insert a wire and place into position4 ,the skin requires some time to dry1 and in both cases place the mounted reptile in a dry place1 where it will rapidly dry1 as the skin is liable to decay if kept in a damp place4 ,,section ,i43 ,,mounting ,,lizards1 ,,alligators1 ,,etc4--,reptiles of this description should be skinned like mammals1 through a longitudinal insertion made in the abdomen4 ,the skin from the top of the head cannot be removed however4 ,in mounting1 proceed exactly as in mammals1 but as there is no hair to hide defects1 all cotton1 excelsior1 etc41 wound on the bones must be very smooth4 ,the attitudes of all this class of animals are apt to be stiff and ungainly even in life2 but by putting a bend or two into the tail1 turning the head1 or slightly curving the body1 too much rigidness may be avoided4 ,,section ,,ii43 ,,mounting ,,turtles4--,to remove the skin from a turtle1 cut away a square portion of the under shell1 using a small saw for this purpose4 ,then remove the softer portion through this hole1 and draw out the legs and head as in mammals2 but the top of the head cannot be skinned over4 ,in mounting proceed as nearly as possible as in mammals1 only the legs may be filled with clay or plaster in small specimens4 ,care should be taken not to fill the skin too full2 but let the wrinkles show1 as seen in life1 and imitated as nearly as possible4 ,the shell of the soft-shelled turtle1 like the leather-back1 is quite difficult to keep in good condition--is apt to become distorted in drying4 ,the only method which has occurred to me is to cover the body1 and exposed under portions1 with layers of plaster1 which will keep the shell in position until it is dry1 when it may be removed4 ,,section ,,iii43 ,,mounting ,,fishes4--,fishes are quite difficult to skin1 especially those with scales4 ,in flat fishes ,i remove a portion of one side1 skinning the other2 then1 in mounting1 lay the animal on its side4 ,mounting in this case means filling the fish to its natural life-size with cotton1 tow1 or other available material4 ,plaster or clay will also answer4 ,the fins may be pinned out flat against pasteboard1 or put in place with fine wire4 ,in skinning larger fishes1 or those which have no scales1 or scaled fishes which have cylindrical shaped bodies1 open from beneath by cutting nearly the whole length of the body4 ,the skin from some fishes comes off easily1 while in others it is more difficult to remove4 ,in mounting large fishes use a hard core to the body1 made of either wire or wood4 ,the fins should be wired from the inside2 care should be taken that the skin lies smoothly over the surface beneath1 as it shows considerably in drying1 and all imperfections around it4 ,in preserving the skins of all reptiles and fishes the dermal will be found excellent1 especially in removing the oil from the skins1 etc4 ,cover well with the preservative1 and nothing more will be necessary4 ,skins of this class of animals may be kept for future mounting by simply coating with the preservative1 and kept turned wrong side out without filling4 ,when they are to be mounted throw them into water1 in which a small quantity of dermal has been dissolved4 ,when they are soft turn and mount as in fresh skins4 ,,index4 ,a4 ,alaudid1 #ad ,alcid1 #bf ,alcidinid1 #ae ,alligators1 #ih ,american warblers1 #ad ,ammunition for repeating guns1 #aj ,ampelid1 #ae ,anatid1 #bd ,aramid1 #bc ,ardeid1 #bc ,arsenic a dangerous poison1 #di ,ascertaining the sex of birds1 #dc ,auks1 #bf ,avocets1 #bb ,b4 ,batrachians1 #ig ,basket for collecting birds1 #bi ,bird lime1 #f ,birds1 #a ,box-trap1 #a ,blackbirds1 #af ,breech-loading guns1 #h ,burrowing owl1 ,newburyport1 ,mass1 #bg ,c4 ,cabinets1 #ei ,caprimulgid1 #ag ,care of skins1 #ei ,care of specimens1 #bh ,catching wounded birds1 #ca ,cathartid1 #ba ,charadrid1 #bb ,chamid1 #ac ,cinclid1 #ac ,clap-net1 #b ,cypselid1 #ah ,collecting birds1 #a ,collecting mammals1 #hd ,collectors1 #bg ,columbid1 #ba ,colymbid1 #bf ,coots1 #bd ,cormorant1 #be ,corvid1 #ag ,coturniculus1 #af ,courlans1 #bc ,cranes1 #bc ,crested birds--mounting1 #gf ,crows1 #ag ,cuckoos1 #ai ,cuculid1 #ai ,cuts of the skull1 #cg ,cutting-pliers1 #fd ,d4 ,darters1 #be ,dermal preservative1 #de ,dried skins1 mounting1 #gh ,drying forms1 #ea ,ducks1 #bd ,ducks' skins1 #eg ,dusting birds1 #hj ,e4 ,eagle as decoy1 #f ,eagles1 #bj ,ever-ready bird-trap1 #c ,exceptions to the usual method of skinning1 #ci ,f4 ,falconid1 #bj ,falcons1 #bj ,finches1 #af ,fishes1 #ig ,form for measurements of mammals1 #hi ,flycatchers1 #ag ,frigate birds1 #be ,fringillid1 #af ,g4 ,gallinules1 #bd ,gannets1 #bd ,game pieces1 #gi ,geese1 #bd ,goatsuckers1 #ag ,graculid1 #ge ,grebes1 #bf ,grosbeaks1 #af ,grouse1 #ba ,gruid1 #bc ,gulls1 #bf ,h4 ,hmatopodid1 #bb ,hawk as decoy1 #e ,hawks1 #bj ,herons1 #bc ,herons' skins1 #bd ,hirundinid1 #ae ,humming birds1 #ah ,i4 ,ibis1 #bc ,ibis' skins1 #ef ,icterid1 #af ,instruments for mounting1 #fd ,j4 ,jays1 #ag ,k4 ,killing wounded birds1 #cj ,kingfishers1 #ai ,l4 ,labelling specimens1 #eh ,label1 sample1 #eh ,laniid1 #ae ,large birds1 mounting1 #gf ,large mammals1 mounting1 #ib ,large mammals' skins1 #hh ,larid1 #bf ,lizards1 #ih ,loading shells1 #h ,loons1 #bf ,m4 ,making over old skins1 #fa ,making skins1 #di ,making skins of long-necked birds1 #ee ,making skins of mammals1 #hf ,making skins of small birds1 #ej ,making stands1 #hd ,mammals1 #hd ,maynard's dermal preservative1 #di ,measurements of birds recorded1 #fb ,measuring birds1 #eh ,measuring mammals1 #hh ,meleagrid1 #ba ,motacilid1 #ad ,mounting birds1 #fd ,mounting dried skins1 birds1 #gh ,mounting dried skins1 mammals1 #id ,mounting fishes1 #ii ,mounting fresh specimens1 birds1 #fd ,mounting fresh specimens1 mammals1 #ij ,mounting lizards1 alligators1 etc41 #ih ,mounting mammals1 #hh ,mounting mammals without any bones1 #ie ,mounting with wings spread1 #gf ,mounting reptiles1 batrachians1 and fishes1 #ig ,mounting screens1 #gf ,mounting turtles1 #ii ,n4 ,naturalists' guide1 #dd ,nuthatches1 #ac ,o4 ,old skins1 making over1 #fa ,other methods of preparing skins1 #dg ,ordinary method of skinning birds1 #dc ,orioles1 #af ,ouzels1 #ac ,owl as decoy1 #e ,owls1 #bj ,oyster-catchers1 #bb ,p4 ,panel work1 #gj ,papier-mach1 #hb ,parid1 #ac ,parrots1 #ba ,part ,i41 #a ,part ,,ii41 #hd ,pelecanid1 #bd ,pelicans1 #bd ,petrels1 #bf ,phtonid1 #be ,phalaropodid1 #bb ,phalarops1 #bb ,phoenicopterid1 #bd ,picid1 #ai ,plain stands1 #ha ,pliers1 #fd ,pigeons1 #bb ,plovers1 #bb ,plotid1 #be ,plugging mouths of birds1 #cc ,podicipid1 #bf ,preservative1 #de ,preserving skins1 #dd ,prices for mounting birds1 #gi ,procellarid1 #bf ,procuring birds1 #aa ,psittacid1 #ai ,puffins1 #bf ,q4 ,quail1 #ba ,r4 ,rails1 #bd ,rallid1 #bd ,recurvirostrid1 #bb ,repeating collecting gun1 #i ,s4 ,sample label for birds1 #eh ,saxicolid1 #ab ,screens1 #gg ,sex of birds1 #dc ,shooting birds1 #g ,shot for birds1 #aa ,sieve trap1 #b ,sittid1 #ac ,skinning birds1 #cc ,skinning-knife1 #cc ,skinning large mammals1 #hg ,skinning small mammals1 #hf ,skins of birds1 #ed ,skins of hawks1 #eg ,skins of herons1 ibises1 etc41 #ef ,skins of long-necked birds1 #ee ,skins of owls1 #eg ,skins of small birds1 #eb ,skins of vultures1 #eg ,small mammals1 #hh ,snipe1 #bc ,scolopacid1 #bc ,sparrows1 #af ,spoonbills1 #bc ,steel traps1 #d ,stilts1 #bc ,stone-chats1 #ab ,strigid1 #bb ,sulid1 #bd ,swallows1 #ae ,swifts1 #ah ,sylvid1 #ac ,sylvicolid1 #ad ,t4 ,tachypetid1 #be ,tanagers1 #ae ,tanagrid1 #ae ,tantalid1 #bc ,terns1 #bf ,tetraonid1 #ba ,thrushes1 #ab ,titmice1 #ac ,trapping birds1 #a ,trochilid1 #ah ,troglodytid1 #ac ,tropic birds1 #be ,true larks1 #ad ,true warblers1 #ac ,turdid1 #ab ,turnstones1 #bb ,tweezers1 #ej ,tyrannid1 #ag ,v4 ,vireonid1 #ae ,vireos1 #ae ,vultures1 #ba ,w4 ,wagtails1 #ad ,warblers1 ,american1 #ad ,warblers1 true1 #ac ,waxwings1 #ae ,wings spread1 mounting1 #gf ,woodpeckers1 #ah ,wrens1 #ac ,wrentits1 #ac ,c4 ,j4 ,,maynard ,,co41 ,no4 #i ,pemberton ,square1 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,,dealers ,,in ,,naturalists' ,,supplies ,birds' ,eggs1 ,nests1 ,skins1 c41 c4 -------- ,we make a ,specialty of ,,naturalists' and ,,taxidermists' ,,supplies1 such as ,instruments for ,egg-,blowing1 ,skinning1 ,mounting1 etc4 ,also1 ,,artificial1 ,,eyes1 ,,leaves1 ,,grasses1 ,,mosses1 and in fact all ,supplies needed by the ,collector and ,taxidermist4 -------- ,send for ,catalogue1 addressing as above4 ,a4 ,l4 ,,ellis ,,co4 ,,importers ,,of ,,artificial ,,glass ,,eyes ,,for ,,taxidermists1 ,,jewellers ,,and ,,fancy ,,work ,,pawtugket1 ,r4,i4 ,,tools4 ,,anvils1 ,,egg ,,drills1 ,,spring ,,forceps1 ,,wire ,,cutters1 ,,egg ,,blowers1 ,,insect ,,forceps1 ,,plyers1 ,,embryo ,,hooks1 ,,curved ,,needles1 ,,bitts1 ,,brain ,,spoons1 ,,scalpels1 ,,mallets1 ,,pocket ,,cases1 ,,stuffers4 ,,supplies4 ,,arsenical ,,soap1 ,,artificial ,,leaves1 ,,tow1 ,,shades1 ,,icicles1 ,,thread1 ,,moss1 ,,stands1 ,,glasses1 ,,glue1 ,,flowers1 ,,wire1 ,,clay1 ,,cops1 ,,grasses1 ,,smalt1 ,,cork1 ,,labels1 ,,clunelle1 ,,frosting1 ,,pins1 ,,tags4 ,,mica1 ,,books1 ,,glass ,,eyes4 ,we carry the most complete assortment that can be obtained4 ,for ,,hummers ,,to ,,eagles1 ,,mice ,,to ,,elephants1 ,,monkeys ,,to ,,men1 ,,send ,,for ,,detail ,,catalogue4 ,,indian ,,arrow ,,heads4 -------- ,the ,best1 ,most ,perfect1 ,smallest and ,nicest ,colored ,arrow ,points in the world4 ,,for ,,sale ,,in ,,lots ,,to ,,suit4 -------- ,a ,fine1 ,perfect ,point1 sent registered1 on receipt of #a4jj4 -------- ,f4 ,m4 ,,gilham1 #bda ,battery ,street1 ,san ,francisco1 ,cal4 ,,new ,,books ,,for ,,naturalists4 ,,in ,,press4 ,handbook of ,entomology4 ,by ,prof4 ,c4 ,v4 ,,riley4 ,this work will be an introduction to the study of ,entomology1 and as such will find a place occupied by no ,american book4 ,it will be thoroughly illustrated4 #a vol4 #hvo4 ,cloth1 #c4jj4 ,manual of the ,mosses of the ,united ,states4 ,with copper-plates illustrating the ,genera4 ,by ,,leo ,,lesquereux and ,,thomas ,p4 ,,james4 ,it is particularly desired that botanists wishing copies should notify the publishers at an early day1 that the edition may be decided on4 ,the price has not yet been fixed1 but probably will be #c4ej4 ,botanical ,micro-,chemistry4 ,an introduction to the study of ,vegetable ,histology4 ,by ,prof4 ,v4 ,a4 ,,poulsen4 ,translated by ,,william ,,trelease4 #a vol4 #abmo4 ,cloth1 #a4jj4 ,s4 ,e4 ,,cassino ,,co41 ,,publishers1 ,,boston1 ,,mass4 ,,new ,,work ,,on ,,sea ,,mosses4 ,we shall issue in a few days an elegantly illustrated ,,manual ,,of ,,american ,,sea ,,mosses1 prepared by ,rev4 ,a4 ,b4 ,hervey4 ,it is just such a work as has long been needed and much called for3 a handy1 convenient book for sea-side use4 ,nothing of the kind has been published in this country2 ,harvey's great work1 completed #be years ago1 in three ponderous quartos1 being too expensive and too cumbersome for general and popular use4 ,it is a complete ,collector's ,guide1 giving practical information as to the best times1 places and methods of collecting the necessary apparatus1 and the details of floating out1 pressing1 drying1 preserving1 and mounting these beautiful plants4 ,full directions are also given of the best methods of studying and identifying these plants4 ,full keys are given1 at the head of each group1 by which the most inexperienced may be easily guided to the genus to which the plant he is studying belongs4 ,while in the description of species the method of treatment is popular1 and especially adapted to the need of amateur botanists and sea-side collectors1 all the statements are made with scientific accuracy and carefulness4 ,all the common species belonging to the three great groups of ,green1 ,olive ,colored and ,red ,alg1 are taken up in order1 and so described in detail1 that it is believed they may be easily identified whenever found4 ,the book is thus made a complete guide to all the common and beautiful forms of our ,atlantic flora1 north of the ,carolinas1 including nearly all the characteristic forms of the ,pacific coast1 for ,california1 ,oregon and the ,north4 ,the plates1 twenty in number1 are drawn and colored from nature1 and represent twenty-four of the most interesting1 beautiful and characteristic species1 in not less than nineteen genera4 ,the work is issued in elegant binding1 #ab mo41 over #cjj pages1 and is printed on fine1 heavy paper1 with #bj full-paged colored plates4 ,price1 postpaid1 #b4jj4 ,for sale by all booksellers1 or sent1 postpaid1 on receipt of price1 by the publisher4 ,s4 ,e4 ,,cassino ,,co41 ,publishers1 #da ,arch ,street1 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,,important ,,books ,,for ,,the ,,naturalist4 -------- ,handbook of ,invertebrate ,zoology4 ,for ,,laboratories and ,,seaside ,,work4 ,by ,prof4 ,w4 ,k4 ,,brooks1 ,ph4 ,d41 ,director ,chesapeake ,zoological ,laboratory of the ,johns ,hopkins ,university4 ,price1 #c4jj ,this work is published in one large #hvo volume of #djj pages4 ,illustrated with #bjj entirely new cuts1 from drawings by the author1 or made under his direct supervision4 ,handbook of ,entomology4 ,by ,prof4 ,,charles ,v4 ,,riley1 ,u4 ,s4 ,entomologist1 ,chief of ,entomological ,commission1 ,state ,entomologist of ,mo41 etc41 etc4 ,in press4 ,cloth4 #hvo4 ,price1 #c4jj ,international ,scientists' ,directory4 ,containing the ,names1 ,special ,departments of ,science1 etc41 etc41 of ,amateur and ,professional ,naturalists1 ,chemists1 ,physicists1 ,astronomers1 etc41 etc41 in ,america1 ,europe1 ,asia1 ,africa1 and ,oceanica4 ,ready ,jan41 #ahhc4 #abmo4 ,price1 paper1 #b4jj2 cloth1 #b4ej ,sea ,mosses4 ,by ,rev4 ,a4 ,b4 ,,hervey4 ,new edition4 #bj ,colored ,plates4 #abmo4 ,price1 #b4jj ,check ,list of ,coleoptera4 ,check ,list of ,coleoptera of ,america1 ,north of ,mexico4 ,by ,g4 ,r4 ,,crotch1 ,m4 ,a4 #hvo4 ,new edition1 with supplement4 ,price1 #a4be ,minot's ,birds of ,new ,england4 ,land ,birds and ,game ,birds of ,new ,england1 with descriptions of ,birds1 their ,nests and ,eggs1 their ,habits and ,mates4 ,by ,h4 ,d4 ,,minot1 ,illustrated by outline cuts4 #def pages4 #hvo4 ,cloth4 ,price1 #c4jj ,ferns of ,north ,america4 ,text by ,prof4 ,,daniel ,c4 ,,eaton1 of ,yale ,college4 ,illustrations by ,messrs4 ,j4 ,h4 ,emerton and ,charles ,e4 ,faxon4 ,complete in two volumes4 ,large #dto4 ,cloth1 gilt top4 ,price1 #cj4jj ,life on the ,sea-,shore2 ,,or1 ,,animals ,,of ,,our ,,coasts ,,and ,,bays4 ,with illustrations and descriptions by ,james ,h4 ,emerton4 #abmo4 ,cloth4 ,price1 #a4ej ,primative ,industry2 ,,or1 ,,illustrations ,,of ,,the ,,handiwork ,,in ,,stone1 ,,bone ,,and ,,clay1 ,,of ,,the ,,native ,,races ,,of ,,the ,,northern ,,atlantic ,,sea-,,board4 ,by ,,charles ,c4 ,,abbott1 ,m4 ,d4 #efj pages4 #hvo4 #dbi cuts4 ,price1 #c4jj ,how to ,mount ,birds and ,animals2 ,,or1 ,,the ,,taxidermist',s ,,guide4 ,by ,c4 ,j4 ,,maynard4 #abmo4 ,cloth4 ,illustrated4 ,price1 #a4ej ,this is an entirely new work1 just issued1 and should be in the hands of all who are interested in our birds and animals4 ,with its aid the tyro can soon prepare skins in as good shape as the most experienced taxidermist4 -------- ,any book mentioned sent by mail on receipt of price4 ,books imported from all ,european centres at lowest rates4 ,s4 ,e4 ,,cassino ,,co41 ,,publishers1 #da ,arch ,street1 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,,handbook ,,of ,,invertebrate ,,zoology1 ,,for ,,laboratories ,,and ,,seaside ,,study4 ,,by ,w4 ,k4 ,,brooks1 ,associate ,professor of ,zoology and ,comparative ,anatomy1 and ,director of the ,marine ,laboratory of the ,johns ,hopkins ,university3 formerly ,assistant in the ,boston ,society of ,natural ,history4 ,the book contains directions for studying the general anatomy1 the microscopic structure1 and the development of selected types of animal life2 and it also describes the method of collecting and preserving the forms which are described4 ,the following are some of the subjects treated3 ,the structure of ,vorticell1 ,the reproduction of ,vorticell1 ,the structure of a ,sponge1 ,the structure and growth of a ,campanularian ,hydroid1 ,the structure and development of a ,hydro-,medusa1 ,the general anatomy of a ,starfish1 ,the microscopic anatomy of a ,starfish1 ,the general anatomy of a ,sea ,urchin1 ,the embryology and metamorphosis of the ,sea ,urchin and ,starfish1 ,the general anatomy of the ,earthworm1 ,the microscopic structure of the ,earthworm1 ,the anatomy of the ,leech1 ,the anatomy of a ,crab4 ,the metamorphosis of a ,crab1 ,the structure and development of ,cyclops1 ,the anatomy of a ,grasshopper1 ,the general anatomy of ,unio1 ,the microscopic anatomy of ,unio1 ,the embryology and metamorphosis of ,unio1 ,the anatomy and embryology of the ,squid4 ,illustrated by nearly two hundred cuts from the author's drawings1 or from drawings made from nature under his direction4 ,s4 ,e4 ,,cassino ,,co41 ,publishers1 #da ,arch ,street1 ,boston1 ,mass4 ,naturalists' ,instruments4 ,we keep constantly on hand an assortment of ,instruments used by ,naturalists1 such as ,,scalpels1 ,,bird-,,stuffing ,,forceps1 ,,scissors 7curved and straight7 ,,egg ,,blowers1 ,,egg ,,drills1 ,,insect ,,pins1 ,,insect ,,pin ,,forceps1 c4 ,,scalpels1 ,ebony ,handle 4#ge ,,bird-,,stuffing ,,forceps1 4#ge1 #a4be1 #a4ge1 #b4jj1 #b4be1 #b4ge ,according to length4 ,,scissors1 ,straight 4#ge1 #a4jj ,,scissors1 ,curved #a4be1 #a4cg1 #a4ej ,,egg ,,drills 4#be to #a4ej ,,syringes #d4jj to #be4jj ,,egg ,,blowers1 ,nickeled 4#ej ,,naturalists' ,,cases4 ,,prof4 ,,marks' ,,case ,,instruments #f4jj ,,prof4 ,,wilder',s ,,case ,,instruments #aj4jj ,s4 ,e4 ,,cassino ,,co4 ,publishers of ,scientific ,works4 ,,supplies ,,furnished4 #da ,arch ,street1 ,boston4 ,transcriber's ,note ,minor typographical errors have been corrected4 ,the astronomical symbols for ,mars and ,venus on page #eh are represented in this text version by ,m and ,v respectively4