,,sykes ,,/reet1 ,,sole ,u4 ,s4 ,,ag5ts ,,= ,/4 ,d5is ,dye/uff & ,*emical ,co41 7,,limit$47 ,a4 ,,poirri]1 ,presid5t4 ,no4 #aje ,,rue ,,lafayette1 ,,p>is1 ,,france1 ,,manufactur]s ,,( ,,anil9e ,,colors1 ,,ar*il ,,extract1 ,,cudbe>4 c4 ,,includ+ ,,_m ,specialties = ,fea!r & ,silk ,dy]s ,fr5* ,extracts ( ,dyewood & ,indigo1 c41 c4 #he ,wat] ,/41 ,,new ,,york1 ,u4,s4,a4 ,,bran*es3 ,,bo/on--#ce ,india ,/reet4 ,,philadelphia--#dc ,n4 ,front ,/4 ,,ag5cies3 ,r4 ,r4 ,,/reet ,,co41 ,*icago4 ,ills4 ,s4 ,h4 ,,frank ,,co41 ,san ,francisco1 ,cal4 ,illu/ration3 ,,gr\p ,,( ,,o/ri*es4 ,,! ,,practical ,,o/ri* ,,fea!r ,,dy]1 ,,by ,,alex&] ,,paul4 ,,revis$ ,,& ,,correct$ ,,by ,,dr4 ,m4 ,,frank4 ,,publi%$ ,,by ,,mrs4 ,,dr4 ,m4 ,,frank1 ,textile ,colori/1 #ejf ,ar* ,/41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa41 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 #ahhh4 ,copyright1 #ahhh1 by ,mrs4 ,dr4 ,m4 ,frank4 ,all ,rights ,res]v$4 ,,preface4 ,9 ! prep>ation ( ?is "w x has be5 my aim to pres5t ,recipes1 simple1 yet complete 9 e detail1 = dye+ e color & %ade ( color kn[n4 ,reliability1 practicability & rapidity ,i claim = ?is "w1 & w\ld ask t x be judg$ n f a lit]>y /&po9t1 b z a ?or\gh & practical in/ructor 9 ! art ( ,o/ri* ,fea!r ,dye+1 z simplifi$ & p]fect$ by me dur+ ye>s ( h>d "w & rese>*4 ,x is ! fir/ "w ( its k9d ev] put be=e ! public 9 ! ,engli% language1 & w1 9 consequ5ce1 receive f ^? int]e/$ close scrut9y & criticism1 :i* prompts ! au?or to (f] #ajjj to any p]son :o w prove t ! recipes h]e9 conta9$1 or any s+le "o ( !m1 w n produce ! desir$ color or %ade p]fect & 9 ! "t m5tion$4 ,! old me?odical or?odox dy]s w f9d a decid$ advantage 9 be+ enabl$ to make colors 9 m9utes1 t h]et(ore requir$ h\rs & days to complete4 ,te*nicalities & high-s\nd+ phrases = ! names ( colors & t]ms ( ! dye-h\se h no place 9 ?is "w4 ,x is n necess>y = a man to be a *emi/ to be a practical fea!r dy]1 o!r au?orities to ! contr>y not)/&+4 ,good practical common s5se & judgm5t & a k ( ! nature ( ! goods y are h&l+1 & ?r[ !ory to ! w9ds4 ,,alex ,,paul4 ,,to ,,! ,,o/ri* ,,fea!r ,,manufactur]s1 ,,dy]s ,,& ,,sc\r]s1 ,,& ,,int]e/$ ,,public ,,( ,,am]ica ,,& ,,europe1 ,,?is ,,"w ,,is ,,respectfully ,,d$icat$1 ,,by ,,! ,,au?or4 ,,te/imonials4 ,! foll[+ are a few ( ! num]\s te/imonials receiv$ by ,dr4 ,m4 ,frank1 ,manag] ( ,textile ,colori/1 9 evid5ce ( our me?od3 ,,*icago1 ,feb4 #bc1 #ahhe4 ,all ,i h to say reg>d+ ,mr4 ,alex4 ,paul's me?od = dye+ o/ri* fea!rs are j z he repres5ts1 & aft] hav+ tak5 a c\rse ,i am p]fectly satisfi$4 ,i4 ,f4 ,,s*w>z4 ,,ri*mond1 ,,va41 ,jan4 #bj1 #ahhe4 ,sir1--,aft] receiv+ a c\rse ( in/ruction ( ,mr4 ,alex4 ,paul1 ,i ?9k he is a ?or\gh ma/] ( 8 art1 & fully comes up 8 promises1 & any "o :o wi%es to le>n ! art c\ld n d bett] ?an to engage 8 s]vices4 ,,jas4 ,f4 ,,?ur/on4 ,,l\isville1 ,,ky41 ,m>* #ab1 #ahhe4 ,?is is to c]tify t ,i h ?is day receiv$ in/ructions f ,mr4 ,paul1 9 ! art ( fea!r dye+1 & ,i c truly say t ,i am mu* pleas$ ) 8 process1 s simple1 s quickly done1 & produces su* beautiful colors & %ades4 ,i paid #aej to o!r p>ties = in/ruction 9 fea!r dye+1 & ,i c say t ,i knew b little ab\t fea!r dye+ be=e to-day4 ,p4 ,,b>ri/]4 ,,milwaukee1 ,feb4 #bg1 #ahhe4 ,we take pleasure 9 recomm5d+ ! me?od ( fea!r dye+ taught to u by ,mr4 ,alex4 ,paul1 = ! sum ( fifty doll>s4 ,we ?9k x w\ld be b5eficial = any dy] to le>n ?is art4 ,,otto ,,piets* ,,co4 ,,ro*e/]1 ,feb4 #d1 #ahhe4 ,?is is to c]tify t ,mr4 ,paul has ?is day giv5 me in/ructions 9 o/ri* fea!r dye+1 = :i* ,i paid fifty doll>s4 ,i am p]fectly satisfi$ t he has accompli%$ all t he und]took to d to my satisfaction1 & ?9k t x w prove to be money well inve/$4 ,,wm4 ,,ma9s4 ,,canton1 ,o41 ,feb4 #aa1 #ahhe4 ,i h tak5 ?is day a c\rse ( in/ruction 9 o/ri* fea!r dye+ f ,mr4 ,a4 ,paul1 = :i* ,i paid him fifty doll>s4 ,! same ,i consid] ! mo/ simple & be/ me?od kn[n2 & is well wor? t5 times ! am\nt4 ,c4 ,,pet] ,,son4 ,,utica1 ,jan4 #ca1 #ahhe4 ,i h receiv$ a c\rse ( in/ructions f ,alex4 ,paul1 = :i* ,i paid him fifty doll>s1 & w\ld /ate t ,i consid] ,mr4 ,paul a ?or\gh ma/] ( ! art ( fea!r dye+1 & feel t five times ! am\nt paid him w\ld n be equival5t to ! in=mation receiv$4 ,,john ,w4 ,,mclean4 ,,milwaukee1 ,feb4 #bh1 #ahhe4 ,mr4 ,alex4 ,paul has giv5 me in/ruction = dye+ & clean+ o/ri* fea!rs4 ,i feel satisfi$ to c]tify t 8 me?od _c be excell$1 & t ! in/ruction is wor? t5 times ! am\nt *>g$4 ,i4 ,,leis]4 ,,baltimore1 ,jan4 #ad1 #ahhe4 ,sir1--,i h receiv$ ?r\gh ,mr4 ,alex4 ,paul ( y\r me?od ( fea!r dye+1 & ackn[l$ge t y\r me?od is f> sup]ior to my mo/ vivid imag9ation ( :at c be execut$ 9 ! art ( fea!r dye+4 ,i w\ld n sell ! in=mation ,i h obta9$1 nor w\ld be )\t x = a great deal m ?an ,i paid = x4 ,e4 ,,bau]4 ,,albany1 ,jan4 #bh1 #ahhe4 ,i am glad to h _h ! opportunity to le>n ! art ( fea!r dye+ z taught by ,mr4 ,alex4 ,paul1 & w nev] regret x4 ,x is ! easie/1 mo/ economical & ! be/ me?od kn[n4 ,i paid ,mr4 ,paul fifty doll>s = 8 in/ruction1 b ,i w\ld n be )\t x = five hundr$4 ,x is1 )\t exception1 ! f9e/ me?od extant4 ,,john ,p4 ,,may]4 ,illu/ration3 ,a1 ,"w-b5*4 ,b1 ,hydro-extractor4 ,c1 ,c1 ,buckets4 ,d1 ,boil]4 ,e1 ,/ation>y ,wa%-tub4 ,f1 ,f1 ,hot-wat] ,pipes4 ,illu/ration3 ,/eam+ ,kettle ,illu/ration3 ,curl+ ,knife 7,half ,size7 ,,o/ri* ,,fea!r ,,dye+4 ,,gr[? ,,( ,,! ,,o/ri* ,,fea!r ,,trade ,,dur+ ,,! ,,pa/ ,,twelve ,,ye>s ,,9 ,,?is ,,c\ntry4 ,! manufactur]s ( ,am]ica c\ld h be5 c\nt$ on ! f+]s ( "o's h& a doz5 ye>s ago4 ,at ! pres5t "t ,new ,york alone c boa/ ( betwe5 =ty & fifty4 ,ent]pris+ m5 9 o!r cities & ?r\gh\t ! c\ntry are ye>ly becom+ int]e/$ & endeavor+ to take hold ( ?is "y & pr(itable bus9ess1 & we c look to o/ri* fea!r manufactur+ at ! pres5t "t z "o ( our /aple indu/ries4 ,! greate/ disadvantage manufactur]s h _h to cont5d ) 0 a lack ( k ( color+4 ,our greate/ *emi/s & anil9e manufactur]s h work$ dilig5tly1 contribut+ l>gely to ! progress ( wool1 cotton & silk dye+1 b ! am\nt ( dye/uffs us$ by ! l>ge/ fea!r manufactur]s 0 ( su* m9or importance t x did n seem pr(itable = !m to inve/igate2 consequ5tly ! art ( o/ri* fea!r dye+ progress$ v sl[ly4 ,fea!r dy]s a doz5 ye>s ago 7 sc>ce1 & ! art 7if 9 ^? days x c\ld be call$ su*71 0 controll$ to a great ext5t by ! ,fr5*1 :o1 judg+ by my exp]i5ce ) !m1 impress$ me z be+ ! mo/ egoti/ical mortals1 & decid$ly or?odox 9 _! me?ods1 absolutely refus+ to take hold ( any?+ new t might prove b5eficial to !m1 & s jeal\sly did !y gu>d _! 7z !y consid]$ !m7 secrets1 t dur+ work+ h\rs e "o ( !m ev5 _! employ]s1 7 d5i$ admittance to ! dye-h\se4 ,millions ( doll>s are at ! pres5t "t inve/$ 9 o/ri* fea!rs 9 all conditions1 9 ! cases ( raw /ock 9 ! w>e-h\ses & 9 ! fl\ri%+ o/ri* f>ms n[ 9 exi/5ce2 & a mill9]'s w9d[ )\t its ri* clu/]s ( o/ri* tips & plumes w\ld to-day be a r>e sight4 ,!y are us$ n only 9 ! trimm+ ( hats & bonnets1 b fa%ion dem&s _! use 9 trimm+ dresses1 wraps1 etc41 & to a l>ge ext5t !y are be+ us$ 9 mak+ h&some & v valuable fans4 ,x is to be regrett$ t ,london & ,p>is m>kets are suppli$ ) ! *oice/ ( ! goods t come f ! ,cape1 & ,am]ica gets ! leav+s1 al?\gh our m>ket consumes equally z _m1 if n m4 ,x is only a matt] ( "t1 h[ev]1 :5 manufactur]s w be import+ raw /ock direct4 ,,! ,,bird1 ,,its ,,plumage ,,& ,,habits4 ,ye>s ago1 be=e ! trade _h begun to assume its pres5t proportions1 ! supply ( fea!rs came *iefly f ,egypt2 ! bird be+ hunt$ by ! natives1 & g5]ally kill$ = its plumage1 :i* 0 9 quality f> sup]ior to ! fea!rs :i* are to-day rais$ on f>ms at ! ,cape4 ,! flues or fibres ( ! ,egyptian 7 v close & compact & v /rong 9 texture & ( great durability1 & hav+ a great aff9ity = color1 !y 7 capable ( /&+ a great am\nt ( manipulation )\t receiv+ s]i\s injury4 ,a s]i\s objection to !m 0 t "o-half1 or m1 7 m>k$ :]e ! bird peck$ !m ) 8 bill1 giv+ !m a mo?-eat5 appe>ance1 & few ( !m c\ld be us$ = :ite1 z !y 7 m or less /a9$ on ! ends1 a dirty yell[1 :i* soap w\ld n remove & acid w\ld only develop1 !re be+ at t "t no kn[n me?od ( blea*+ !m1 z ! virtues ( ,p]oxide ( ,hydrog5 or ,p]manganate ( ,pota% z blea*+ ag5ts 7 unkn[n to ! dy]s4 ,ent]pris+ capitali/s saw a pr(itable field = inve/m5t 9 ! propagation ( ! bird1 &1 z a result1 ! supply has greatly increas$1 & ! quality ( ! plumage is f> sup]ior 9 e respect to ! wild ,egyptian o/ri*4 ,a full gr[n o/ri* w weigh ab\t ?ree hundr$ p\nds1 & /&s ab\t sev5 to eight feet 9 height4 ,9 ! bre$+ season !y w travel 9 broods ( f ?ree to five 9 numb]1 "o ( :i* is inv>iably a male4 ,! h5s lay _! eggs 9 a pit scrap$ out ) _! feet1 ! s& =m+ a ridge ar\nd x4 ,:5 !y h accumulat$ a doz5 eggs or s ! male beg9s to brood1 always tak+ 8 place on !m at night1 surr\nd$ by ! h5s1 :ile by day !y w relieve "o ano!r4 ,aga91 at times ! hat*+ has be5 left entirely to ! sun4 ,nor? ,african eggs pres5t a smoo? surface1 :ile ^? ( ! ,s\? are pitt$4 ,at ! pres5t "t an o/ri* f>m is 9 progress 9 ,cali=nia2 x is z yet a v "y in/itution1 & its success is be+ wat*$ ) int]e/1 b1 9 my op9ion1 :ile ! bird w live & ?rive1 ! quality ( ! plumage w be v inf]ior to ^? 9 _! native clime4 ,s mu* has already be5 writt5 conc]n+ ! bird's p[]ful dige/ive organs1 & s exagg]at$ t we w n try to discr$it or contradict x4 ,x is h>dly necess>y to rem>k t !re is sc>cely en\gh sub/ance 9 t5-p5ny nails or doorknobs to fatt5 an o/ri* on4 ,,brief ,,sket* ,,( ,,dye/uffs ,,us$ ,,by ,,me ,,9 ,,my ,,me?od ,,( ,,dye+4 ,,logwood4 ,logwood is met ) 9 comm]ce 9 ! %ape ( l>ge blocks1 av]ag+ ab\t f\r hundr$ p\nds ea* 9 weight4 ,on ! surface ! wood is a dirty deep br[n r$1 b )91 :]e x has n come 9 contact ) ! atmosph]e1 its color is mu* bright]4 ,! tree is a native ( ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,x has be5 kn[n & us$ ev] s9ce a %ort p]iod aft] ! discov]y ( ,am]ica4 ,dur+ ! tw5ty-?ird ye> ( ! reign ( ,que5 ,elizabe? an act ( ,p>liam5t 0 pass$1 =bidd+ its use z a dye/uff1 because x did n yield fa/ colors4 ,?is act 0 repeal$1 h[ev]1 by an ,ord] 9 ,c\ncil ( ,*>les ,,ii41 :i* proce$s to set =? t great improvem5ts h be5 made z reg>ds ! obta9+ ( fa/ colors f logwood4 ,! foll[+ are ! *ief v>ieties ( logwood1 di/+ui%$ by names d]iv$ f ! localities ( exportation3 ,yucatan1 ,laguna1 ,dom+o1 ,monte ,*ri/o1 ,=t ,lib]te1 ,jamaica1 etc4 ,logwood is to-day "o ( our mo/ important dyewoods1 z inde$ x ent]s 9 fea!r dye+ into all ( ! d>k or /aple colors1 su* z black1 navy blue1 br[n1 gre51 g>net1 etc4 ,to extract ! sub/ance requires consid]able boil+1 especially if us$ 9 ! =m ( *ips2 if x is us$ gr\nd1 :i* is by f> pref]able to *ips 9 fea!r dye+1 x requires mu* less boil+ to extract ! sub/ance4 ,! dy] w (t5 f9d logwood1 t1 al?\gh pur*as$ "u ! "n ( a mo/ excell5t br&1 w be f> inf]ior to :at he has be5 us+1 9 :i* case x is well to look = an adult]ation ( "s sort1 :i* x is n at all easy to detect1 only :5 x does n produce ! desir$ result4 ,,turm]ic4 ,! sub/ance kn[n z turm]ic is ! "u-gr\nd /em ( a plant :i* gr[s 9 a wild /ate 9 "s p>ts ( ,*9a & ,india4 ,x emits a /rong1 b pleasant odor1 & its ta/e is pepp]y1 aromatic & bitt] at ! same "t4 ,! plant1 h[ev]1 is cultivat$ 9 ,java & ,b5gal2 ! latt] c\ntry produc+ ! bett] quality4 ,al?\gh turm]ic is ri* 9 color+ matt]1 its want ( p]man5ce is a h9drance to x4 ,x is g5]ally sold 9 p[d]1 gr\nd d[n v f9e4 ,x %\ld be q dry2 if damp1 x loses its color1 turns a dull yell[i% br[n1 & dyes flat %ades4 ,a good turm]ic %\ld %[ a beautiful lu/re4 ,x ent]s into a majority ( ! d>k colors 9 fea!r dye+1 &1 al?\gh us$ z a body = colors only1 a great deal dep5ds ^u x z to ! result4 ,,bi*romate ,,( ,,pota%4 ,?is dye/uff1 kn[n z r$ *rome & bi*romate & (t5 times simply z *rome1 consi/s 9 "o equival5t ( pota%1 ) two equival5ts ( *romic acid4 ,x conta9s no wat]1 & consequ5tly _c lose any weight by exposure to heat or dry air4 ,x w n attract moi/ure f a damp atmosph]e4 ,x dissolves readily 9 t5 times its weight ( cold wat]1 & is insoluble 9 alcohol4 ,x =ms bright r$ cry/als1 & ! solution is ( a deep orange yell[4 ,bi*romate ( pota% is a mo/ p[]ful oxidiz+ ag5t1 & produces v complex & int]e/+ *anges 9 t9ctorial bodies4 ,x is an int5se poison4 ,its mo/ ext5sive application is n[ 9 ! production ( blacks1 along ) logwood2 inde$1 )\t its aid x w\ld be next to an impossibility to produce a glossy & p]man5t black on o/ri* fea!rs4 ,9 giv+ dep? ( %ade to all d>k colors x is us$ 9 pref]5ce to any ?+ else1 & ,i h nev] f\nd any to conta9 any adult]ation t 0 p]ceptible1 or t 0 a h9drance to its good qualities4 ,x is us$ 9 o/ri* fea!r dye+ always 9 a dilut$ =m1 9 a v high temp]ature ( wat]4 ,,ar*il4 ,ab\t ! ?irte5? c5tury an ,italian1 ,t$]igi by "n1 dur+ travels 9 ! ,ea/ obs]v$ ! t9ctorial p[]s ( a c]ta9 class ( plant ( l[ organization1 call$ li*5s1 & introduc$ ! color into ,europe "u ! "n ( ar*il4 ,= ?is discov]y he 0 amply rew>d$ by ! gov]nm5t1 besides amass+ a l>ge =tune1 z ! supply = ye>s came f ,flor5ce4 ,at fir/ ! we$s 7 collect$ on ! %ores ( v>i\s isl&s 9 ! ,m$it]ranean2 b on ! discov]y ( ! ,can>y ,isl&s1 9 #adjb1 l>ge quantities 7 obta9$ f !re4 ,lat] on !y 7 import$ f ,cape ,v]de2 & n[ !y are also obta9$ f ,madagasc>1 ,zanzib>1 ,angelo & ,lima & v>i\s localities 9 ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,! we$ does n conta9 any color+ matt] already =m$1 b "u ! influ5ce ( ammonia & ! oxyg5 ( ! atmosph]e gives rise to ar*il4 ,! manufacture ( ar*il 0 = c5turies c>ri$ on 9 wood5 tr\ghs4 ,two hundr$ p>ts li*5s 7 plac$ 9 ! tr\gh toge!r ) ab\t two hundr$ & =ty p>ts ( decompos$ ur9e1 & ! mixture well work$ e ?ree h\rs = =ty-eight h\rs4 ,five p>ts ( slak$ lime1 "o "p ( ars5i\s acid & "o & "o-qu>t] p>ts ( alum 7 !n add$1 & ! :ole well /irr$ & all[$ to f]m5t4 ,! /irr+ 0 repeat$1 f "t to "t1 = a mon?4 ,! cont5ts ( ! tr\gh 7 !n remov$ to casks1 & left to /&1 ?us improv+ ! color4 ,ar*il is also "o ( ! mo/ important dye/uffs us$ by ! fea!r dy]1 pr9cipally ent]+ into ! composition ( g>net1 plum1 br[n1 etc4 ,contact ) acid w de/roy its color+ virtues by turn+ x a dull br[n r$4 ,,safran9e4 ,x is prep>$ by treat+ anil9e oils successively ) nitr\s acid & ars5ic acid1 & "o ( an alkal9e nitrate at ab\t #bab ,fah41 = a %ort "t4 ,! product is extract$ ) boil+ wat]1 neutraliz$ ) an alkali filt]$1 & ! color precipitat$ ) common salt4 ,pure hydro*loride =ms ?9 r$di% cry/als1 :i* are soluble 9 wat] & 9 alcohol1 yield+ a yell[i% r$ solution4 ,! mo/ *>act]i/ic reaction ( safran9e is t :5 conc5trat$ sulphuric acid is gradually add$ to its solution1 ! color *anges to violet1 !n to blue1 d>k gre5 & light gre54 ,!n1 on dilut+ ! solution ) wat]1 ! same *anges ( color take place1 only 9 ! rev]se ord]4 ,9 fea!r dye+ safran9e is us$ *iefly 9 mak+ light colors ( a p9ki% hue2 su* z p9k1 t]ra cotta1 & to give a t9t to ecru1 beige & su* colors4 ,,oxalic ,,acid4 ,oxalic acid1 a mo/ p[]ful acid1 occurs comb9$ *iefly ) pota% juices ( plants ( ! g5us oxalis & rumex4 ,artificially x 0 obta9$ by ! action ( nitric acid ^u sug> & />*1 b has be5 prep>$ latt]ly by treat+ sp5t dye/uffs ) alkalies4 ,oxalic acid =ms colorless transp>5t cry/als1 :i* are inodor\s1 int5sely s\r1 & d n gr[ moi/ ^u exposure4 ,%\ld !y become damp1 "s nitric or sulphuric acid1 us$ 9 ! prep>ation1 has n be5 ?or\ghly remov$4 ,x is soluble 9 its own weight ( boil+ wat]1 b requires ab\t eight times its weight ( wat] at #fe ,fah4 ,oxalic is "o ( ! l>gely us$ acids 9 fea!r dye+1 be+ us$ 9 a numb] ( light colors = ! purpose ( develop+ ! color4 ,9 develop+ blues x is invaluable4 ,o!r colors x w totally de/roy1 violet or safran9e1 = example2 & x is us$ 9 place ( sulphuric acid = ! purpose ( extract+ color4 ,,indigo ,,blue4 ,indigo is d]iv$ f sev]al plants ( w>m climates4 ,9 ! plant ! color exi/s z a yell[i% liquid2 b :5 extract$ & expos$ to ! action ( ! air x becomes insoluble1 & takes an int5sely blue color4 ,! cultivation ( ! plant is c>ri$ on *iefly 9 ,india1 ,java1 ,egypt & ,l\isiana4 ,indigo comes 9 ! m>ket 9 lumps1 :i*1 if ( good quality1 pres5ts a deep blui% purple color1 & exhibits a f9e r$di% copp]y lu/re if rubb$ ) a h>d1 poli%$ body4 ,if v h>d or heavy1 or :5 ! color is v dull1 blacki%1 gre5i% or br[ni%1 ! quality is bel[ ! /&>d4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 ( v little consequ5ce 9 o/ri* fea!r dye+1 & its impurities w\ld sc>cely at any "t be noticeable4 ,x %\ld1 h[ev]1 dilute ?or\ghly 9 boil+ wat]1 & if !re rema9 a s$im5t ( any proportion1 ! indigo is impure4 ,sulphuric acid is g5]ally us$ to develop ! color4 ,,sulphuric ,,acid4 ,sulphuric acid1 commonly call$ oil ( vitriol1 a common1 yet v important1 acid4 ,al?\gh n us$ to any great ext5t 9 o/ri* fea!r dye+1 x occurs 9 comm]ce 9 v>i\s /ates & degrees ( purity4 ,x 0 at "o "t prep>$ by di/ill+ dri$ copp]as at a high temp]ature4 ,x is n[ obta9$ 9 great] purity f ! alkal9e bisulphates4 ,x is a cle> colorless oily fluid1 weigh+ ab\t eighte5 p\nds to ! gallon4 ,if mix$ ) cold wat]1 a great increase ( temp]ature takes place4 ,x rapidly de/roys organic bodies1 depriv+ !m ( _! oxyg5 & hydrog51 & leav+ ! c>bon beh9d1 z a blacki% mass4 ,if any p>ticle ( organic matt] falls into a c>boy ( acid1 x is decompos$1 & imp>ts a d>k color to ! liquid4 ,x takes up wat] f ! air rapidly1 if left uncork$1 & ?us dilutes itself4 ,its use 9 fea!r dye+ is pr9cipally to extract colors t are too d>k4 ,,copp]as4 ,copp]as is g5]ally prep>$ f ! s(t1 :ite v>iety ( iron pyrites1 frequ5tly f\nd to a great ext5t 9 ! coal measures4 ,^!1 on exposure to air & moi/ure1 decompose ! latt]1 tak+ up oxyg51 & are ?us conv]t$ into sulphate ( iron4 ,copp]as =ms pale gre5i% blue semi-transp>5t cry/als1 conta9+ =ty-five p] c5t4 ( wat]4 ,if ?is be expell$1 !re rema9s a dull :iti% p[d]4 ,! cry/als dissolve readily 9 "o & "o-half times _! weight ( cold wat]1 & less ?an half _! weight ( boil+ wat]4 ,! direct uses ( copp]as h v mu* dim9i%$ 9 fea!r dye+2 z = dye+ black 9 conjunction ) logwood x has be5 almo/ entirely sup]s$$ by bi*romate ( pota%4 ,9 drabs & 9 sadd5+ d[n light colors x is1 to a c]ta9 ext5t1 /ill us$4 ,x is us$ 9 quantities s small1 h[ev]1 t !re is no s]i\s results to be fe>$1 z x mu/ be us$ 9 quantity to injure ! fibre4 ,,bism>ck ,,br[n4 ,bism>ck br[n is a product t is us$ 9 fea!r dye+ to a consid]able ext5t1 *iefly 9 a dilut$ =m4 ,x dissolves readily 9 boil+ wat]4 ,x comes 9 ! =m ( a p[d]1 ( a dirty black hue1 & 9 liquid x is a heavy yell[i% r$4 ,x makes a fa/ color1 alkali hav+ b little effect on x4 ,oxalic or sulphuric acid w bright5 ! color1 & turn+ x m on ! r$ ord]4 ,9 giv+ a br[ni% hue to su* light colors z beige1 ecru1 etc41 x is invaluable4 ,x is us$ by "s 9 ! topp+ ( d>k br[n4 ,x has su* a great aff9ity = ! fibre ( fea!rs t x is v difficult to remove !refrom4 ,,conc5trat$ ,,cotton ,,blue4 ,?is blue appe>s to ! consum] 9 ! =m ( cry/als or co>se p[d] ( a purpli% t9t4 ,x is n univ]sally us$ among fea!r dy]s1 al?\gh x is ! mo/ reliable anil9e blue 9 use4 ,x is us$ 9 conjunction ) oxalic acid to develop4 ,x is fa/ to light1 & possesses a great _m advantages ( value4 ,x is soluble 9 wat]1 ei!r hot or cold1 & is us$ 9 ! production ( ! pale/ %ades1 z well z 9 ! d>ke/ navy blues4 ,,roccel9e4 ,a pat5t$ product1 t 9 fea!r dye+ is capable ( tak+ ! place ( all o!r r$s4 ,x is ! only dye/uff t satisfactorily takes ! place ( extract ( saffl[]1 produc+1 ) ! aid ( a proportion ( oxalic acid1 ! mo/ beautiful %ades ( sc>let & c>d9al4 ,x is p]fectly fa/ to light1 dissolves readily 9 boil+ wat]1 & comes to u 9 ! =m ( a dull r$ p[d]4 ,its adult]ations1 if x conta9s any1 h nev] int]f]$ ) its success2 9 fact1 to ! fea!r dy] x conta9s virtues too manifold & valuable to enum]ate4 ,,dye+ ,,recipes4 ,,:ite4 ,,blea*+1 ,,or ,,:at ,,is ,,commonly ,,call$ ,,clean+4 ,aft] /r++ y\r fea!rs & m>k+ y\r tickets1 prep>e luke w>m soap-wat] & wa% ?or\ghly betwe5 ! h&s to remove all dirt & grease4 ,rub ! soap on ! fea!rs1 r9se ?or\ghly 9 luke w>m wat] two or ?ree times = ! purpose ( remov+ all p>ticles ( soap1 :i* is v important2 j z mu* s z remov+ ! dirt4 ,= "o to "o hundr$ fea!rs y c use a common porcela9 wa% b[l4 ,prep>e ba? by us+ "o gallon ( cle> cold wat]1 add to t a small h&ful ( />*1 p[d]$ or lump />* w answ]4 ,ent] fea!rs1 rubb+ !m ?or\ghly betwe5 ! h&s to exp& ! flues & get !m 9 condition to receive ! color1 s z to insure an ev5 %ade2 aft] :i* add ab\t "o-half teaspoonful ( oxalic acid & a drop ( dilut$ violet1 j en\gh to give y\r ba? a pale lav5d] t9t4 ,ent] fea!rs1 & let rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute1 keep+ !m "u ! surface & agitat+ by rubb+ !m betwe5 ! h&s2 aft] :i* squeeze fea!rs out ( ba? & dry4 ,! quicke/ me?od = a few fea!rs is to h a small quantity ( clean1 p[d]$ />*1 & rub !m ar\nd 9 x4 ,! />* w imm$iately absorb all moi/ure1 & y h b to beat x out ( ! flues1 z x dries ei!r on a clean bo>d or betwe5 ! h&s4 ,x is b ! "w ( a few seconds4 ,?is me?od ( dry+ insures an unsoil$ color1 z ! fea!rs are dry a few seconds aft] leav+ ! ba?4 ,great c>e %\ld be us$ to br+ y\r violet dilut$ ?or\ghly1 s t no p>ticles may ent] ! ba? & spot y\r goods4 ,9 dilut+ y\r violet use boil+ wat]1 & %ake well 9 bottle1 & let x /& = a "t1 :5 all s$im5t w settle at ! bottom1 & w n aga9 mix ) y\r color4 ,x is v important to use only ! am\nt ( oxalic acid m5tion$ 9 recipe1 z a great] quantity w\ld de/roy y\r color by turn+ ! violet a dirty bluei% gre51 & mu* less ?an ! quantity m5tion$ w\ld h a t5d5cy to ca/ a lav5d] t9t on y\r goods4 ,%\ld y1 by mi/ake or c>elessness1 spoil y\r :ite1 proce$ to r9se (f all ! />* 9 cold wat] fir/2 !n 9 luke w>m wat] to remove all ! acid f fea!rs1 & !n use soap & hot wat]1 & wa% well1 & r9se4 ,mix a fre% :ite ba? z direct$ 9 ! recipe1 & proce$ ?is "t ) m c>e4 ,,blea*+ ,,light ,,colors ,,:ite4 ,old fad$ light colors1 su* z blue1 p9k1 ecru1 corn1 drab1 etc41 t y are desir\s ( blea*+ :ite1 c be accompli%$ 9 ! foll[+ way4 ,wa% fea!rs ?or\ghly 9 w>m wat]1 us+ soap4 ,add a small p9* ( soda1 aft] :i* r9se 9 ab\t ?ree w>m wat]s to insure ! removal ( e p>ticle ( soap4 ,dilute 9 clean b[l or bas9 "o-qu>t] ounce ( p]manganate ( pota% 9 "o gallon ( boil+ wat]4 ,! wat] mu/ be z hot z /eam or fire c make x4 ,ent] fea!rs1 & let rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute1 a few seconds m or less w d no h>m1 nor w x make any mat]ial diff]5ce 9 ! result2 cont9ually agitat+ 9 ba? ) clean /ick1 aft] :i* y w notice t ! fea!rs h assum$ a light1 full br[n color4 ,take out ( ! ba?1 b d n r9se !m2 let ! loose color dra9 (f = a few seconds1 meantime empty ba? & r9se y\r b[l ?or\ghly2 !n dilute half an ounce ( oxalic acid or sulphur\s acid 9 "o gallon ( boil+ wat]4 ,! wat] mu/ be absolutely clean4 ,ent] fea!rs1 & let rema9 9 until all ! color has entirely disappe>$1 g5tly agitat+ :ile 9 ba?4 ,aft] ! ba? has become transp>5t & ! fea!rs :ite1 :i* w take ab\t two m9utes1 empty out ab\t two-?irds ( ! ba?1 & add cold wat] to r$uce to h& heat2 !n add a small h&ful ( />* & a drop ( dilut$ violet1 & ent] y\r fea!rs1 & let !m rema9 9 ab\t "o m9ute1 squeeze out & dry 9 />*4 ,blue y w g5]ally f9d ! h>de/ ( all light colors to remove = :ite1 ! soda & p]manganate seem+ app>5tly to decompose ! color4 ,! mom5t x ent]s ! oxalic ba?1 x g5]ally1 to a m or less ext5t1 develops ! color aga94 ,su* be+ ! case1 aft] r9s+ 9 luke w>m wat] to remove acid1 return to a weak soda ba? = a m9ute1 & !n r9se & return to p]manganate ba?1 r weak] ?an ! fir/ "o2 9 o!r words1 repeat ! fir/ op]ation all ?r\gh1 only 9 weak] solutions4 ,?is process c be us$ successfully 9 blea*+ all light colors :ite4 ,9 blea*+ natural blacks1 h[ev]1 x w\ld n be practicable4 ,a recipe = blea*+ natural black w be f\nd 9 ano!r portion ( ! book4 ,illu/ration3 ,,:ite--page #af4 ,illu/ration3 ,,lilac--page #ef4 ,illu/ration3 ,,light ,,p9k--page #bj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,lemon--page #eb4 ,,light ,,p9k4 ,:ite fea!rs are g5]ally us$ = ?is color1 b all light colors c be made a beautiful %ade ( p9k by fir/ blea*+ ) p]manganate ( pota%4 ,aft] wa%+ & r9s+ ?or\ghly 9 luke w>m wat]1 soap to remove all loose dirt & grease1 or blea*+1 if requir$4 ,prep>e ba? z foll[s3 ,take "o gallon ( luke w>m wat]1 m or less1 accord+ to ! quantity ( fea!rs y h to dye add a small h&ful ( />*4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & rub ar\nd betwe5 ! h&s ?or\ghly to op5 ! flues s z to insure an ev5 %ade2 add a c\ple ( drops ( dilut$ safran9e to ba?4 ,ent] fea!rs1 & let !m rema9 9 ! ba? ab\t "o m9ute1 or until fea!rs look ab\t two %ades d>k] ?an sample2 g5tly /irr+ !m ar\nd 9 ba? mean:ile1 & keep+ !m "u ! surface4 ,remove f ba?1 squeeze & dry 9 ! usual way1 rubb+ !m 9 dry p[d]$ />*1 & beat !m out on a clean bo>d or betwe5 ! h&s to remove all p>ticles :i* might adh]e4 ,%\ld y\r sample t y h to mat* be a little on ! yell[i% ord]1 a drop ( dilut$ ,bism>ck br[n add$ to ba? w br+ ! desir$ %ade2 or if a v brilliant %ade or rose p9k1 a drop ( dilut$ violet add$ to ! ba? & increase temp]ature2 a little judgm5t is always necess>y2 z1 = example1 %\ld y require a d>k %ade1 y w\ld naturally let y\r goods rema9 long] 9 ! ba? ?an ! "t specifi$ 9 recipe1 or add a little m color1 & if a v pale p9k is want$1 less "t & color %\ld be us$4 ,%\ld y1 at any "t1 f9d y\r color1 aft] be+ dri$1 a c\ple ( %ades d>k] ?an y\r sample1 r9se goods 9 luke w>m wat]1 & ent] fea!rs1 pass ?r\gh = a m9ute1 & dry4 ,,light ,,blue4 ,all o!r fad$ out light colors c be made into a delicate %ade ( sky blue by fir/ blea*+ ) p]manganate ( pota% process = ! purpose ( remov+ colors4 ,:ite fea!rs t are only dirty & greasy mu/ be ?or\ghly wa%$ & r9s$ 9 luke w>m wat]1 aft] :i* prep>e ba? z foll[s3 ,= "o gallon ( luke w>m wat]1 m or less1 accord+ to ! am\nt ( fea!rs to be dy$1 add a small h&ful ( clean />*2 ent] y\r fea!r & rub !m ar\nd 9 ba? = a second betwe5 ! h&s to op5 ! flues1 to admit color ev5ly2 add ab\t "o teaspoonful ( oxalic acid1 ent] fea!rs & let rema9 9 ba? a few seconds long]2 !n remove fea!rs f ba?1 & add a c\ple ( drops ( conc5trat$ cotton blue dilut$2 re-ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ab\t half a m9ute2 increase temp]ature ( y\r ba? a few degrees by add+ "s hot wat]2 take fea!rs out ( ba? & add !reto a drop ( dilut$ indigo blue2 re-ent]1 & keep !m well "u ! surface ( ba? to give !m an ev5 color1 & all[ to rema9 9 ab\t ?irty seconds long]4 ,take !m out ( ba?1 squeeze out & dry1 ei!r 9 p[d]$ />* or by beat+ on a clean bo>d or table4 ,"u no circum/ances all[ fea!rs to hang wet & motionless on l9e dur+ process ( dry+ )\t beat+ ! />* out4 ,! result ( s do+ w\ld cause ! fea!rs to look ?91 %rivel$1 & injure ! color & quality ( goods4 ,! same c>e %\ld be obs]v$ n alone 9 ?is1 b 9 all colors4 ,9 light blues y\r ba? %\ld look ab\t two %ades d>k] ?an ! sample to be mat*$4 ,:]e a d>k] %ade is requir$1 m color c be add$2 &1 ?r\gh c>elessness or neglig5ce1 %\ld y all[ y\r color to become too d>k1 r9se (f y\r fea!rs 9 cold wat] fir/ to remove ! />*1 & !n 9 luke w>m wat] a c\ple ( times to draw (f all acid1 & pass fea!rs a few seconds ?r\gh a ba? ( luke w>m wat] ) a small p9* ( soda 9 x1 :i* w h ! effect ( draw+ (f all surplus color2 aft] :i* r9se 9 luke w>m wat]1 & mix a fre% ba? ( luke w>m wat] & />* & "o-half a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid2 ent] y\r fea!rs & c>efully add color until y h obta9$ ! desir$ %ade4 ,,ecru4 ,all old colors1 except+ d>k br[n1 bottle gre51 navy blue1 black1 g>net1 etc41 c be dy$ a good %ade ( ecru4 ,beg9 an old color by pass+ !m ?r\gh a solution ( hot wat]1 ab\t "o ounce ( soda to a gallon ( wat]1 = ab\t #cj seconds2 aft] :i* take !m out & r9se by pass+ !m ?r\gh clean boil+ wat]1 :i* w draw (f m color ?an x w\ld seem possible ! fea!rs c\ld conta94 ,if all ! old color1 or en\gh ( x1 be n remov$1 put fea!rs ?r\gh ! p]manganate ( pota% process4 ,= dirty :ite fea!rs simply wa% !m ?or\ghly ) soap & hot wat]1 & r9se well2 !n prep>e y\r ba? z foll[s3 ,"o gallon ( h& w>m wat]1 add a small h&ful ( />*1 & ent] fea!rs1 rubb+ !m ar\nd ?or\ghly1 & gett+ ! />* rubb$ into ! flues2 !n add to ba? a small quantity ( copp]as1 ab\t ! size ( a bean1 & re-ent] y\r fea!rs & let rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute or less2 aft] :i* add a few drops ( logwood liquor & ab\t a teaspoonful ( dilut$ anil9e br[n1 fir/ remov+ fea!rs f ba?2 ent] fea!rs & let rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute1 be+ c>eful to keep !m mov+ 9 ba?4 ,if f\nd a little too br[n to mat* y\r sample1 a small p9* ( turm]ic add$ to ba? w r$uce ! %ade4 ,if !y are f\nd a little too yell[ = sample1 a drop ( dilut$ violet w answ]4 ,if ! dy]1 ?r\gh 8 own c>elessness1 %\ld all[ 8 color to get too d>k1 proce$ to extract color z foll[s3 dilute 9 ab\t "o gallon ( luke w>m wat] "o-half teaspoonful ( oxalic acid4 ,ent] fea!rs1 fir/ r9s+ (f />* 9 cold wat]2 let !m rema9 9 ab\t half a m9ute1 & r9se (f ab\t ?ree times 9 hot wat] to remove acid4 ,! acid w turn ! fea!rs a bright yell[1 & aft] r9s+ (f well ! yell[ color w h entirely disappe>$1 & ! fea!rs a light %ade ( du/4 ,prep>e a fre% ba? z p] recipe1 &1 us+ m c>e1 ent] fea!rs & pass ?r\gh until y h acquir$ ! desir$ %ade4 ,9 ! fir/ ba?1 %\ld a v d>k %ade be requir$1 add a little m logwood & copp]as ?an direct$ 9 ! recipe1 & if a v light color1 a little less4 ,,cream ,,color4 ,!re are num]\s me?ods ( produc+ ?is mo/ beautiful1 yet simple1 %ade4 ,any yell[ sub/ance 9 conjunction ) oxalic acid c be us$ ) m or less fair success4 ,a great _m dy]s use a few drops ( dilut$ logwood1 develop$ ) ! aid ( oxalic acid4 ,! color ?is produces is v satisfactory :5 f9i%$1 b no soon] is x expos$ to /rong light ?an ! color becomes a dirty drab %ade1 caus$ by ! acid leav+ ! fea!rs1 ! logwood becom+ oxidiz$4 ,! be/ & mo/ p]man5t %ade ( cream color is obta9$ 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 ,?or\ghly wa% & r9se y\r fea!rs to remove e p>ticle ( dirt1 = x is z necess>y to h ! fea!rs clean z if !y 7 = a :ite1 & if !y are v dirty or old fad$ out colors1 put !m ?r\gh ! p]manganate ( pota% process1 & !n remove all color4 ,prep>e ba? ( "o gallon ( luke w>m wat] & a small h&ful ( />*2 ent] fea!rs & rub ar\nd 9 ba? betwe5 ! h&s2 meantime dilute 9 ab\t "o p9t ( boil+ wat] a small five-c5t package ( ess5ce ( c(fee 7commonly call$ *icory71 & boil = a few m9utes2 !n add a few drops ( ! liquid to ! ba?1 & add !reto a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid4 ,re-ent] fea!rs & let rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute1 con/antly mov+ !m ar\nd2 aft] :i* squeeze !m out & dry1 ei!r 9 />* or on a clean bo>d4 ,! result w be a ri* & p]man5t cream4 ,%\ld a p9k or br[ni% t9t be requir$ to mat* sample1 a drop ( ,bism>ck br[n add$ to ba? w produce ! desir$ result2 or if want$ a little m yell[1 a few gra9s ( turm]ic add$ to ! ba? w answ]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cream--page #be4 ,illu/ration3 ,,light ,,blue--page #ba4 ,illu/ration3 ,,lav5d]--page #ch4 ,illu/ration3 ,,salmon--page #ga4 ,,silv] ,,gray4 ,a v delicate color1 requir+ fea!rs almo/ a pure :ite to make a cle> %ade4 ,aft] ?or\ghly wa%+ & r9s+1 or blea*+ if requir$1 ) p]manganate ( pota%1 prep>e a ba? ( "o gallon ( luke w>m wat]1 & add a small h&ful ( />*4 ,ent] fea!rs & manipulate betwe5 ! h&s2 !n add to ba? a small piece ( copp]as1 ab\t ! size ( a pea1 & a few drops ( dilut$ logwood liquor2 re-ent] fea!rs & let rema9 9 ba? until 9 appe>ances !y are two or ?ree %ades d>k] ?an sample2 !n add to ba? a c\ple ( drops ( dilut$ violet1 fir/ remov+ fea!rs f ba?2 let !m rema9 9 a few seconds long]1 & squeeze out & dry 9 ! usual way4 ,! violet gives y\r fea!rs ! brilliant %ade t is s desirable 9 silv] grays4 ,be c>eful 9 dry+ !m n to use />* t has be5 previ\sly us$ 9 dry+ fea!rs t h be5 dy$ 9 acid ba?s1 z x w\ld be liable to spot y\r color4 ,%\ld y1 ?r\gh c>elessness or o!rwise1 all[ y\r color to get d>k] ?an %ade desir$1 r9se fea!rs (f a c\ple ( times 9 cold wat] to remove />*2 !n dilute half a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 a gallon ( hot wat]1 & pass fea!rs ?r\gh x = a few seconds1 & !n r9se (f twice 9 boil+ wat]4 ,aft] :i* prep>e a ba? same z p] recipe1 us+ m c>e1 & pass fea!rs ?r\gh until y h obta9$ ! desir$ %ade4 ,,bism>ck ,,br[n4 ,wa% & r9se y\r fea!rs1 aft] :i* prep>e a ba? ( "o gallon ( boil+ wat] & ab\t "o ounce ( turm]ic & half an ounce ( copp]as2 ent] y\r fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes1 m or less1 aft] :i* take out & r9se twice 9 cold wat]4 ,meantime h boil+ a ba? ( half a p\nd ( logwood to a gallon ( wat]1 & ent] fea!rs at boil+ temp]ature1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ab\t t5 seconds or long]4 ,%\ld a d>k] %ade be desir$1 take out & r9se 9 cold wat]1 aft] :i* dilute a half teaspoonful ( anil9e br[n 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]4 ,r$uce temp]ature a little ) cold wat]4 ,ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ab\t ?ree m9utes2 !n cool (f a small portion ( ! ba?1 & add a small h&ful ( />*1 pass fea!rs ?r\gh & dry4 ,if a light] %ade is want$1 add a drop ( sulphuric acid to ! />* ba? & pass fea!rs ?r\gh4 ,if ! sample to mat* be m on ! yell[ ord]1 ab\t twice ! am\nt ( turm]ic 9 ! fir/ ba?2 & if desir$ m on ! r$1 use no turm]ic1 only copp]as1 9 ! fir/ ba?4 ,if a d>k] %ade is want$1 let !m rema9 a long] "t ?an t specifi$ 9 ! logwood ba?4 ,any light color c be us$ to make a ,bism>ck br[n2 b if v d>k colors are us$1 x is well to draw (f "s ( ! color1 do+ x 9 ! usual way4 ,illu/ration3 ,,sea-,,foam--page #gj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,silv] ,,gray--page #bf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,ecru--page #bc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,trileul--page #eh4 ,,seal ,,br[n4 ,= seal br[n x is n necess>y to wa% y\r fea!rs1 nor to blea* (f any color4 ,any old colors1 except+ black1 c be made a good %ade ( seal br[n4 ,beg9 9 ba? by dilut+ ab\t two ounces ( turm]ic 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat] 7m or less matt]s n74 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & keep !m well "u ! surface ( ! ba? ab\t two or ?ree m9utes2 aft] :i* take out & r9se 9 cold wat] twice4 ,9 ! meantime boil+ a ba? ( logwood ab\t "o p\nd to a gallon ( wat]4 ,if boil$ on fire ab\t fifte5 m9utes is necess>y1 & if boil$ ) /eam a half h\r is requir$4 ,ent] fea!rs 9 logwood & let rema9 9 ab\t ?ree m9utes1 keep+ !m well "u ! surface ( ba?1 aft] :i* take out & r9se2 if 9 cold wat] ab\t twice1 !n dilute a half an ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & see t bi*romate is ?or\ghly dissolv$4 ,ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ab\t t5 seconds1 a long] "t if a v d>k %ade is want$2 !n take !m out & r9se ?or\ghly 9 cold wat]2 aft] :i* add to y\r logwood ba? ab\t "o tablespoonful ( extract ( ar*il2 br+ ba? to a boil & ent] y\r fea!rs2 cov] up ba? & let !m rema9 9 ab\t f\r m9utes2 a little m or less "t1 9 ?is ba? is ( no mat]ial diff]5ce 9 color1 only to make ! %ade heavi] or light]4 ,take y\r fea!rs out ( ba? & r9se 9 cold wat]2 mix a small h&ful ( />* 9 ab\t a qu>t ( cold wat]1 & pass fea!rs ?r\gh & dry 9 ! usual way4 ,if y\r color be d>k] ?an ! %ade y desire1 add a drop or two ( sulphuric acid to />* ba?1 & pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds4 ,if f\nd to be light] ?an ! %ade y desire1 r9se (f ! />* f y\r fea!rs 9 cold wat]2 !n dilute a qu>t] ( an ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh2 aft] :i* r9se1 />* & dry4 ,ano!r excell5t me?od = quick seal br[n is z foll[s3 dilute two ounces ( turm]ic & half an ounce ( copp]as 9 "o gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & let !m rema9 9 ab\t two m9utes2 take out & r9se1 !n ent] 9 a /rong ba? ( logwood at boil+1 & keep "u surface ab\t ?ree m9utes2 aft] :i* r9se2 !n mix a ba? ( a qu>t] to a half teaspoonful ( anil9e br[n 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t ?ree m9utes2 take out1 r9se1 />* & dry4 ,if requir$ d>k]1 re-ent] into logwood ba? = a few seconds4 ,if want$ light]1 add a drop or two ( sulphuric acid 9 y\r />* ba?1 squeeze out & dry 9 ! usual way4 ,,navy ,,blue4 ,all light color$ fea!rs c be us$ = navy blue )\t fir/ ei!r wa%+ or blea*+ out any ( ! color4 ,b if y\r fea!rs be v dirty or greasy1 especially ! latt]1 wa% !m well 9 w>m soap wat] & r9se4 ,prep>e ba? by dilut+ ab\t "o teaspoonful ( conc5trat$ cotton blue 9 "o gallon ( boil+ wat]2 add ab\t a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid4 ,/ir ar\nd well to ?or\ghly dissolve anil9e2 !n ent] y\r fea!rs1 & raise temp]ature ( y\r ba? to boil+4 ,let fea!rs rema9 9 ab\t ?ree m9utes2 a m9ute m w n d any h>m1 only h a t5d5cy to make y\r color a little ri*]2 aft] :i* take fea!rs out ( ba? & r9se ?or\ghly 9 cold wat] = ! purpose ( remov+ all loose p>ticles ( color & ! acid2 hav+ boil+ meantime a ba? ( logwood ( m$ium /r5g?2 ent] fea!rs1 lett+ !m rema9 !re9 ab\t "o-half a m9ute2 take out & r9se 9 cold wat]2 dilute ab\t half an ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]2 ent] fea!rs1 let !m rema9 9 ab\t half a m9ute1 & /ir !m ar\nd well 9 ba?2 aft] :i* take !m out & r9se 9 cold wat] & />* & dry4 ,%\ld y desire a d>k] %ade1 r9se (f />*1 & return to logwood ba? = a few seconds1 r9se (f & repeat bi*romate ( pota% ba?2 !n r9se1 />* & dry4 ,9 ?is way1 by repeat+ ! logwood & bi*romate ( pota%1 y c d>k5 y\r color d[n almo/ to a black4 ,%\ld y get y\r color d>k] ?an y\r sample to be mat*$1 r9se (f />* 9 cle> cold wat]1 & dilute a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 a gallon ( hot wat] almo/ boil+ & ent] fea!rs1 pass+ !m ?r\gh ab\t a half m9ute2 aft] :i* take out & pass ?r\gh a bas9 ( boil+ wat] a few seconds4 ,?is w draw (f ! surplus ( logwood & *rome1 & !n mix a />* ba? luke w>m2 add !reto a half teaspoonful ( oxalic acid = ! purpose ( br++ up ! blue4 ,?is process w r$uce y\r color ?ree or f\r %ades2 !n pass fea!rs & dry4 ,?is process ( dye+ navy blue produces a ri*1 ev5 %ade t is p]fectly fa/ to light & alkali1 & ) ! smalle/ degree ( judgm5t by ! dy] x is impossible to h a failure4 ,,c>d9al4 ,ye>s ago ! mo/ successful %ades ( c>d9al 7 produc$ by tak+ ab\t equal p>ts ( turm]ic & oxalic acid & dilut+ 9 boil+ wat]1 ent]+ fea!rs 9 same = a :ile2 !n add+ !reto ab\t half a cupful ( extract ( saffl[] & ab\t ! same am\nt ( extract ( ar*il1 lett+ !m rema9 9 until ! ba? 0 cold4 ,n a bad recipe1 b v exp5sive4 ,prep>e y\r fea!rs by wa%+ & r9s+ ?or\ghly1 aft] :i* take ab\t "o gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & add to x ab\t "o teaspoonful ( oxalic acid1 & ent] fea!rs = a few seconds4 ,take out & add to ba? a teaspoonful ( roccel9e p[d]1 ?or\ghly dissolv$1 & re-ent] fea!rs2 raise temp]ature ( ba? to boil+1 ei!r ) /eam or fire1 & let fea!rs rema9 9 ab\t f\r m9utes4 ,if q a d>k %ade ( c>d9al be requir$1 add to ba? ab\t a tablespoonful ( extract ( ar*il & let rema9 9 a little long]1 or a few drops ( dilut$ violet 9 ba? w answ] in/ead4 ,!n empty out all b a small quantity ( y\r ba? & cool (f ) cold wat]1 & add a small h&ful ( />*4 ,pass fea!rs ?r\gh1 squeeze out & dry4 ,! result is a mo/ beautiful %ade ( c>d9al4 ,?is color is p]fectly fa/ to light4 ,if y\r %ade to mat* %\ld happ5 to be slightly on ! yell[i% ord]1 a few drops ( dilut$ anil9e br[n add$ to ba? ) roccel9e w produce ! yell[i% t9t4 ,x is h>dly possible to spoil ?is color1 except by ! extravagant use ( "o ( ! +r$i5ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,,*ocolate--page #ge4 ,illu/ration3 ,,corn--page #fd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,m$ium ,,blue--page #fg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,beige ,,cru%$ ,,/rawb]ry4 ,prep>e fea!rs by wa%+ & r9s+ ?or\ghly 9 luke w>m wat]2 or if old1 d>k1 fad$ out colors1 pass !m ?r\gh blea*+ process ( p]manganate ( pota%2 aft]w>ds be+ c>eful to r9se all ! acid out be=e ent]+ ba?4 ,prep>e ba? by dilut+ a small h&ful ( />* 9 ab\t a gallon ( luke w>m wat]1 ent] fea!rs & manipulate ?or\ghly betwe5 ! h&s = a few seconds2 take out1 & add to ba? a few drops ( dilut$ safran9e2 re-ent] fea!rs & let rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute1 or until !y h assum$ a d>k %ade ( p9k2 !n add to ba? a few drops ( dilut$ anil9e br[n & a small p9* ( copp]as1 & ent] fea!rs1 lett+ !m rema9 a m9ute long]4 ,take fea!rs out1 & dry 9 ! usual way4 ,if a v d>k %ade is want$1 a few drops ( dilut$ logwood add$ to ba? at ! "t y add ! copp]as w h ! desir$ effect2 or a few drops ( violet w answ] 9 its /ead4 ,%\ld y f9d y\r color too mu* on ! drab1 a few drops ( safran9e add$ to ba? w h ! desir$ effect4 ,%\ld y f9d t y\r color is entirely too d>k = y\r sample1 r9se (f ! />* 9 cold wat]2 pass fea!rs ?r\gh a solution ( a half teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 a gallon ( hot wat] = a few seconds2 !n r9se 9 hot wat] twice to remove ! acid1 aft] :i* prep>e a fre% ba? z p] recipe1 us+ m c>e1 & keep 9 until desir$ result is obta9$4 ,,plum4 ,fea!rs t are any color except+ d>k gre5 or black c be dy$ a beautiful %ade ( plum4 ,wa% & r9se y\r goods1 & prep>e y\r ba? z foll[s3 "o p\nd ( logwood to a gallon or m ( wat]1 & boil fifte5 m9utes or long]1 !n add to ba? ab\t a qu>t] p\nd ( extract ( ar*il1 & ent] y\r fea!rs1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t five m9utes1 aft] :i* take !m out & r9se 9 cold wat]4 ,prep>e a ba? ( half an ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 m or less1 & see t x is ?or\ghly dissolv$2 pass fea!rs ?r\gh ab\t t5 seconds2 !n take !m out & r9se twice 9 cle> cold wat]2 !n dilute a small h&ful ( />* 9 a half gallon ( luke w>m wat]1 & add to x ab\t half an ounce ( soda2 pass fea!rs ?r\gh = ab\t half a m9ute & dry4 ,%\ld color be f\nd too light = sample1 r9se (f />* 9 cold wat]1 & repeat bi*romate ( pota% ba?2 r9se1 />* & dry4 ,an old logwood ba? t has be5 us$ = o!r colors w answ] = plum1 & save boil+ up a fre% ba?4 ,,olive4 ,if y\r fea!rs to be dy$ are v d>k colors1 su* z br[n1 navy blue1 gre51 g>net1 etc41 draw (f "s ( ! color by pass+ ?r\gh a solution ( boil+ wat] & half an ounce ( soda1 & r9se 9 boil+ wat] twice4 ,prep>e ba? by dilut+ two ounces ( turm]ic 9 ab\t "o gallon ( wat]4 ,ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ab\t two m9utes1--a long] "t w n hurt2 aft] :i* take !m out & r9se 9 cold wat] twice4 ,h a m$ium /rong ba? ( logwood boil+ meantime1 & ent] y\r fea!rs1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ab\t two m9utes2 !n take !m out & r9se 9 cold wat]4 ,prep>e a ba? ( "o gallon ( boil+ wat] & half an ounce ( bi*romate ( pota%1 & aft] x is ?or\ghly dissolv$1 ent] y\r fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ab\t "o m9ute1 long] if a v d>k %ade be requir$4 ,take out & r9se1 aft] :i* y\r fea!rs w h assum$ a d>k1 dull olive1 look+ n unlike a fad$ out black4 ,next prep>e a ba? ( two ounces ( turm]ic ) ab\t "o gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & add !reto a small p9* ( gre5 anil9e1 j en\gh to give y\r ba? ! appe>ance ( be+ a c\ple ( %ades m on ! gre5 ?an ! sample to be mat*$4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ab\t ?ree m9utes2 fir/1 h[ev]1 br++ y\r ba? to a boil1 aft] :i* take fea!rs out & r9se1 />* & dry4 ,if fea!rs be f\nd d>k] ?an sample to be mat*$1 a few drops ( dilut$ oxalic acid 9 y\r />* ba? w br+ ! %ade d[n2 & if f\nd light] ?an sample1 r9se ! />* (f ?or\ghly 9 cold wat]1 & dilute a qu>t] ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds4 ,if want$ a v d>k %ade1 !y %\ld1 aft] hav+ ! />* r9s$ (f1 be return$ to ! logwood ba?1 !n r9s$ & give ! bi*romate ( pota% ba? z above4 ,if f\nd a little too mu* on ! gre5 = sample1 a weak ba? ( turm]ic1 simil> to ! fir/ ba? ( ! op]ation w h ! desir$ effect4 ,!re are also "s %ades ( olive :]e x w n be f\nd necess>y to use any gre5 at all2 t is :5 ! %ade approa*es ! br[n on ! olive4 ,,lav5d]4 ,fea!rs = lav5d] mu/ be :ite1 or ne>ly s1 if y desire a good cle> %ade4 ,all light colors c be us$ by fir/ blea*+ ) p]manganate ( pota%1 or if only dirty :ite fea!rs1 wa% & r9se !m ?or\ghly4 ,prep>e ba? ( luke w>m wat] & a small h&ful ( />*1 rub fea!rs ar\nd betwe5 ! h&s to exp& ! fibres2 !n add to ba? a few drops ( dilut$ violet4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & let rema9 ab\t "o m9ute 9 ba?1 keep+ !m mean:ile 9 motion2 take out y\r fea!rs & add to ba? a drop ( dilut$ safran9e2 re-ent] & raise temp]ature ( ba? a few degrees by addition ( hot wat]2 let y\r fea!rs rema9 ab\t half a m9ute 9 ba?2 if want$ d>k]1 add a few drops ( dilut$ violet1 & if light]1 less2 aft] :i* take out y\r fea!rs & dry !m 9 ! usual way1 be+ c>eful to use clean />* = dry+4 ,to use />* t _h previ\sly be5 us$ to dry light colors t conta9$ acid1 w\ld mo/ likely result 9 spott+ y\r color1 z ! application ( acid to any portion ( ! delicate color w\ld turn x a gre5i% blue4 ,if y\r color be f\nd too d>k = sample1 y c ei!r wa% 9 a solution ( soap wat]1 or else pass fea!rs ?r\gh a ba? ( a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid to a gallon ( luke w>m wat]1 aft] :i* r9se (f well & put ?r\gh fre% ba? z p] recipe4 ,,old ,,gold4 ,all light colors1 su* z light blues1 p9ks1 drabs1 yell[s1 etc41 t y are desir\s ( mak+ old gold ne$ b to be wa%$ ) soap & hot wat] prior to ent]+ 9 ba?4 ,prep>e y\r ba? ) two ounces ( turm]ic & "o gallon ( boil+ wat]1 m or less matt]s n4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs1 & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes1 aft] :i* add a small p9* ( copp]as1 ab\t ! size ( a bean4 ,let y\r fea!rs rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute long]1 aft] :i* take fea!rs f ba? & add !reto a few drops ( dilut$ ,bism>ck br[n2 let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute long]2 take !m out1 cool (f a small portion ( ! ba? ) cold wat]1 add a small h&ful ( />*1 pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh & dry4 ,if want$ a v d>k %ade ( gold1 a few drops ( dilut$ logwood add$ to ba? w h ! desir$ effect2 & if want$ light]1 a small] quantity ( copp]as 9 ba?4 ,if ! %ade be f\nd entirely too d>k = sample1 a solution ( oxalic acid 9 luke w>m wat] w draw (f a portion ( ! color & bright5 :at is left4 ,if want$ a v yell[i% %ade ( gold1 use m turm]ic1 less copp]as & no logwood1 & be p>ticul> to h y\r ba? at all times at a boil+ temp]ature4 ,illu/ration3 ,,slate--page #dg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,g5d>me ,,blue--page #eg4 ,illu/ration3 ,,felt ,,drab--page #df4 ,illu/ration3 ,,g>net--page #dj4 ,,g>net4 ,x is n necess>y to wa% y\r fea!rs1 except !y are v dirty & greasy4 ,z a rule all old colors1 except+ gre5s1 navy blues or blacks1 c be us$ = ?is color )\t blea*+4 ,prep>e ba? by boil+ ab\t "o p\nd ( logwood to a gallon ( wat] or m ab\t fifte5 m9utes2 /ra9 (f liquor f wood2 add ab\t two tablespoonfuls ( extract ( ar*il1 & br+ aga9 to a boil4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t f\r or five m9utes1 aft] :i* take fea!rs f ba?1 r9se twice 9 clean cold wat]1 & dilute a small h&ful ( />* 9 a little cle> cold wat]2 pass fea!rs ?r\gh & dry 9 ! usual way4 ,%\ld y\r color be f\nd too d>k = sample to be mat*$1 dilute a c\ple ( drops ( sulphuric acid 9 y\r />* ba?1 & pass fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds2 fir/1 h[ev]1 add+ a little hot wat] to increase temp]ature4 ,if f\nd light] ?an ! desir$ %ade1 r9se y\r fea!rs ?or\ghly 9 cold wat] & dilute half an ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% 9 ab\t "o gallon ( boil+ wat]2 pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds1 r9se ?or\ghly & dry4 ,great c>e is necess>y 9 pass+ fea!rs ?r\gh ?is *rome ba?1 z ! color w oxidize v rapidly4 ,if y\r sample to mat* be m on ! br[n %ade1 a v little ar*il1 n m ?an "o-half ! prescrib$ quantity mu/ be us$2 & if m on ! purple or plum1 add m ar*il ?an ! quantity specifi$4 ,9 prep>+ ba?1 :5 y h add$ ! ar*il1 be c>eful 9 br++ x to boil+ temp]ature t y d n all[ x to boil any "t1 z t w\ld h a t5d5cy to dull y\r color4 ,by keep+ ?is ba? clean x c be us$ sev]al times1 9 fact1 x improves ) age2 &1 if kept 9 a crock1 s t x w n come 9 contact ) any metallic sub/ance1 & :5 ne$$ j br\ght to boil+ temp]ature2 & if ne$$1 a teaspoonful ( ar*il add$ to x w produce v beautiful %ades ( g>net4 ,?is ba? c be us$ to make y\r plum colors2 & if y h an old ba? ( logwood on h& x is n necess>y to boil a fre% "o1 simply add ! ar*il1 & br+ to a boil4 ,,t]ra ,,cotta4 ,if :ite fea!rs1 wa% & r9se !m ?or\ghly ) hot wat]1 & if fad$ out light colors1 extract color by blea*+ ) p]manganate ( pota% 9 ! usual way2 be+ c>eful to r9se well 9 hot wat] to remove all ! acid us$ 9 blea*+ be=e ent]+ ba?4 ,prep>e ba? z foll[s3 ab\t a gallon ( luke w>m wat]1 & add a small h&ful ( />*4 ,ent] fea!rs1 rub ar\nd 9 ba? betwe5 ! h&s1 take out & add a few drops ( dilut$ safran9e1 & copp]as ab\t ! size ( a pea4 ,ent] fea!rs & let rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute2 take out & add ab\t half a teaspoonful ( dilut$ anil9e br[n2 re-ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ab\t half a m9ute long]2 aft] :i* dry 9 ! usual way4 ,if f\nd too p9k = sample1 add a few drops m anil9e br[n1 & return to ba? = a few seconds4 ,if f\nd too yell[1 add a few drops m ( dilut$ safran9e1 & keep 9 ba? a few seconds long]2 if want$ d>k]1 add a little m ( ea* color1 & keep 9 ba? long]4 ,,bottle ,,gre54 ,aft] wa%+ & r9s+ fea!rs ?or\ghly1--if dirty or greasy1 extract+ color if necess>y1--prep>e ba? z foll[s3 ,"o ounce ( turm]ic dilut$ 9 "o gallon ( boil+ wat]2 ent] y\r fea!rs & let rema9 9 ab\t "o m9ute1 aft] :i* take out & r9se ?or\ghly4 ,prep>e a weak ba? ( logwood1 ab\t half a p\nd to ! gallon ( wat]1 or ab\t half ! usual /r5g? ( an ord9>y logwood ba? = black2 boil a few m9utes1 aft] :i* ent] y\r fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute2 !n take out & r9se ?or\ghly 9 cold wat]2 aft] :i* prep>e a ba? ( half an ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% to "o gallon ( boil+ wat]4 ,dissolve bi*romate ( pota%1 ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ab\t half a m9ute2 a little long] if a v d>k %ade be requir$1 & s mu* less "t if a v light %ade is requir$2 aft] :i* take fea!rs out & r9se ?or\ghly 9 cold wat]4 ,dilute ab\t "o-half a teaspoonful ( anil9e gre5 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & r$uce temp]ature ( ba? a few degrees ) cold wat]2 !n ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t two or ?ree m9utes2 remove fea!rs & cool (f a small portion ( ! ba? ) cold wat]1 & add to x a small h&ful ( />*2 pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh ! ba?1 squeeze out & dry (f 9 ! usual way4 ,if f\nd to be light] ?an %ade desir$1 r9se (f />* ?or\ghly1 & return = a few seconds to logwood ba? )\t increas+ temp]ature any2 !n r9se (f 9 cold wat]1 & pass ?r\gh a weak solution ( bi*romate ( pota%1 ab\t "o-qu>t] ounce to a gallon2 aft] :i* r9se1 />* & dry4 ,if f\nd d>k] ?an %ade desir$1 pass fea!rs ?r\gh a solution ( half a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 ab\t "o gallon ( luke w>m wat] = ab\t ?irty seconds2 take !m out ( ?is & r9se twice ?r\gh boil+ wat]1 & !n give a weak ba? ( anil9e gre51--ab\t half ! /r5g? ( ! fir/ ba?4 ,if samples to be mat*$ be m on ! yell[ or olive1 use decid$ly m turm]ic 9 ! fir/ ba?1 & add a little1 say ab\t a teaspoonful1 to ! anil9e gre5 ba?4 ,if a gre5 on ! blue1 x w be necess>y to use only "o-half ! turm]ic prescrib$ 9 ! fir/ ba?4 ,,/eel ,,color4 ,all light colors c be us$ to make a good %ade ( /eel by fir/ extract+ colors by ! usual process ( blea*+ ) p]manganate ( pota%2 if :ite & dirty1 wa% ?or\ghly 9 hot wat] & soap & r9se4 ,prep>e y\r ba? z foll[s3 ,to "o gallon ( luke w>m wat] add a small h&ful ( />*2 ent] y\r fea!rs1 rub !m ar\nd well 9 ba?2 aft] :i* add a small p9* ( copp]as & ab\t a tablespoonful ( logwood liquor1 & let rema9 9 ab\t "o m9ute2 increase temp]ature ( ba? & add a few drops ( dilut$ violet1 fir/ remov+ y\r fea!rs f ba?2 re-ent] fea!rs & let rema9 ab\t "o m9ute1 or until y\r fea!rs look ab\t f\r %ades d>k] ?an sample2 aft] :i* take out & dry4 ,if f\nd too light1 return to ba? & add m logwood liquor & a few drops m violet1 & %\ld y f9d !m altoge!r too d>k = sample1 extract y\r color by pass+ !m ?r\gh a solution ( "o teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 a gallon ( hot wat]2 aft] :i* r9se !m (f by pass+ !m ?r\gh a gallon ( boil+ wat] ab\t twice1 :5 y w f9d y\r color r$uc$ f\r or five %ades4 ,! oxalic acid r5d]s ! fea!rs a bright yell[4 ,boil+ wat] w draw (f ! logwood & br+ out y\r %ade ( drab 9 z mu* mild] =m2 !n proce$ to mix a new drab ba? ! same z p] recipe1 only us+ m caution n to get x too d>k2 ent] fea!rs1 br+ to %ade1 us+ a drop ( violet to bright5 up color4 ,be c>eful 9 dry+ n to use />* t has previ\sly be5 us$ on a color :]e acid 0 us$ to develop4 ,illu/ration3 ,,/eel--page #de4 ,illu/ration3 ,,army ,,blue--page #ei4 ,illu/ration3 ,,purple--page #fj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,m>oon--page #ea4 ,,felt ,,drab4 ,prep>e fea!rs by wa%+ & r9s+ ?or\ghly1 or blea*+ if ne$$2 aft] :i* mix a ba? ( luke w>m wat] & />*4 ,ent] fea!rs & manipulate 9 ba? a few seconds betwe5 ! h&s2 aft] :i* add a small quantity ( copp]as1 ab\t ! size ( a pea4 ,ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ab\t half a m9ute2 take out fea!rs & add a few drops ( logwood liquor2 re-ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ab\t half a m9ute2 add to ba? ab\t a drop ( dilut$ safran9e1 & if %ade be want$ a little on ! yell[1 a drop ( dilut$ ,bism>ck br[n c be add$4 ,all[ fea!rs to rema9 9 until !y look ab\t ?ree %ades d>k] ?an sample2 !n take out & dry z usual4 ,if f\nd ei!r too d>k or too light1 treat precisely z prec$+ color 7/eel74 ,be c>eful n to use />* t has be5 us$ = an acid color4 ,,slate ,,color4 ,to make ?is color all light colors c be us$ & "s d>k ones2 only ^?1 h[ev]1 t d n conta9 mu* yell[1 z1 = example1 blues1 r$s1 etc4 ,aft] prep>+ = ba? by wa%+ & r9s+1 or by extract+ color if necess>y1 mix a ba? ( logwood1 ab\t half ! usual /r5g?1 & ent] fea!rs4 ,ba? mu/ be at boil+ temp]ature1 & let !m rema9 9 ab\t "o m9ute2 aft] :i* take out & r9se4 ,proce$ to mix a ba? ( "o qu>t] ounce ( copp]as & "o gallon ( boil+ wat]2 ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t half a m9ute2 take out & cool (f a small portion ( ! ba?1 add />* & pass fea!rs ?r\gh1 squeeze out & dry4 ,if ! color to be mat*$ be v d>k1 repeat ! ba? ( logwood & mix a ba? ( "o-qu>t] ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]4 ,ent] fea!rs & let rema9 9 ab\t half a m9ute2 aft] :i* r9se (f 9 cold wat]1 & />* & dry4 ,if a v brilliant %ade be requir$1 :5 y h r9s$ fea!rs f bi*romate ( pota% ba?1 wa% ?or\ghly 9 soap-suds & r9se 9 luke w>m wat]4 ,dilute a small quantity ( />* 9 cold wat]1 pass fea!rs ?r\gh & dry4 ,! above recipe produces a mo/ beautiful %ade ( slate color1 p]fectly fa/ to light1 & ! dep? ( %ade is regulat$ by ! quantity ( logwood4 ,%\ld y f9d y\r color altoge!r too d>k = sample1 proce$ to extract by pass+ ?r\gh a solution ( "o teaspoonful ( oxalic acid to "o gallon ( boil+ wat] = ab\t half a m9ute1 & !n r9s+ (f twice or ?ree times 9 boil+ wat]2 aft] :i* repeat 9 a mild] =m4 ,,orange ,,color4 ,prep>e fea!rs by wa%+ & r9s+ ?or\ghly4 ,prep>e ba? by dilut+ ab\t two ounces ( turm]ic 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & ent] y\r fea!rs1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes2 !n take !m out & add a few drops ( dilut$ ,bism>ck br[n & ab\t a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid2 re-ent] y\r fea!rs & br+ ba? to a boil1 & let rema9 9 ab\t ?ree m9utes2 aft] :i* take out1 & cool (f a small quantity ( ba?1 add a small h&ful ( />*1 pass fea!rs ?r\gh & dry4 ,%\ld y desire a v full d>k %ade1 use ab\t twice ! am\nt ( turm]ic1 add a few drops m ,bism>ck br[n2 & if want$ mu* light]1 use less ( ea* color4 ,if want$ m yell[1 use v small quantity ( ,bism>ck br[n2 & if a v r$di% %ade ( orange1 a little m ,bism>ck br[n ?an am\nt prescrib$ 9 recipe4 ,!re are num]\s orange anil9es 9 ! m>ket t are us$ successfully 9 dye+ %ades ( orange1 b x is almo/ necess>y to h a diff]5t %ade ( anil9e = e %ade ( color made4 ,%\ld y\r sample to be mat*$ be r dull1 use no oxalic acid 9 ba?1 z ! oxalic acid is us$ 9 develop+ & bright5+ ! %ade4 ,to remove ! color1 %\ld x be too d>k1 ! fir/ me?od is to wa% well 9 soap wat]1 r9se & pass ?r\gh a solution ( oxalic acid 9 w>m wat]1 ab\t half an ounce to ! gallon4 ,,sc>let4 ,wa% & r9se y\r fea!rs ?or\ghly1 & if requir$ to remove a surplus ( any old color1 pass ?r\gh a ba? ( p]manganate ( pota%1 z p] recipe2 aft] :i* prep>e a ba? ( half a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid to "o gallon ( boil+ wat] & ab\t a teaspoonful ( turm]ic2 ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t half a m9ute1 aft] :i* take !m out & add to ba? ab\t half a teaspoonful ( roccel9e2 dissolve p[d] ?or\ghly1 & return to ba?2 let !m rema9 9 ab\t "o m9ute long]1 !n cool (f a small quantity ( ! ba? & add a small h&ful ( />*2 pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh1 squeeze out & dry z usual4 ,if want$ a v d>k %ade1 add a little m roccel9e & let rema9 long] 9 ba?4 ,if %ade be a little on ! orange1 use m turm]ic & less roccel9e2 & if m on ! c>d9al1 vice v]sa4 ,%\ld y1 ?r\gh c>elessness1 get y\r color too d>k1 to remove color r9se (f & wa% ?or\ghly 9 a soap ba?1 & r9se (f 9 boil+ wat] ab\t twice1 :i* w h ! effect ( r$uc+ ! color sev]al %ades2 mix a new ba? z p] recipe1 & ent] fea!rs1 us+ m c>e & judgm5t & proce$ to />* & dry z call$ = 9 recipe4 ,,m>oon4 ,almo/ any odd %ades ( color c be us$ )\t extract+ colors1 b if dirty or greasy1 x is always be/ to wa% ?or\ghly & r9se4 ,take y\r old logwood ba? t has be5 us$ = black & o!r colors1 or else boil a fre% ba? ( ! same proportions1 ab\t a p\nd to ! gallon4 ,:5 at boil+ temp]ature add !reto a half cupful ( extract ( ar*il1 fir/ remov+ ! gr\nds ( logwood f ! ba?2 !n ent] y\r fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ! ba? ab\t f\r or five m9utes2 take !m out & r9se ?or\ghly 9 cold wat]1 & prep>e a ba? ( "o-half ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% to a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & ?or\ghly dissolve pota%2 aft] :i* pass y\r goods ?r\gh = a few seconds only1 & take out & r9se twice 9 cold wat]2 dilute a small h&ful ( />* 9 clean cold wat]1 pass fea!rs ?r\gh & dry4 ,%\ld a v d>k %ade be requir$1 all[ y\r fea!rs to rema9 9 bi*romate ( pota% ba? a few seconds long]2 take out & dry4 ,%\ld y f9d y\r color too d>k = sample1 x is only necess>y to add to y\r />* ba? a few drops ( sulphuric acid1 & add a small quantity ( hot wat] to increase temp]ature a few degrees1 & pass fea!rs ?r\gh4 ,?is ba?1 same z ! g>net1 c be us$ aga91 & improves ) age if kept 9 a clean place4 ,if y h an old g>net ba? on h&1 x w answ] = m>oon by br++ to a boil & add+ ab\t a teaspoonful m extract ( ar*il to x4 ,illu/ration3 ,,/one--page #gc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,c(fee--page #gi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,bottle ,,gre5--page #dc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,olive ,,br[n--page #ha4 ,,lemon ,,color4 ,wa% & r9se y\r fea!rs ?or\ghly if dirty :ites2 if old fad$ out light colors1 blea* ) p]manganate ( pota%2 aft] :i* prep>e ba? z foll[s3 ,"o gallon ( luke w>m wat] & a h&ful ( />*2 ent] y\r fea!rs & rub ar\nd betwe5 ! h&s = a few seconds2 !n add to ba? a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid1 & dilute ab\t a tablespoonful ( turm]ic 9 a small quantity ( wat]1 & add a few drops ( ! liquor to ! ba?2 re-ent] y\r fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ab\t "o m9ute or s2 aft] :i* take !m out & add a drop ( dilut$ indigo blue2 return fea!rs to ba? & all[ !m to rema9 ab\t "o m9ute long] 9 ba?1 aft] :i* take out1 squeeze & dry usual4 ,if a deep ri* %ade be desir$1 & y h no sample to mat*1 use no indigo 9 ! ba?4 ,ano!r excell5t me?od ( mak+ lemon is to sub/itute an equal am\nt ( picric acid = turm]ic2 &1 %\ld y f9d y\r color entirely too d>k = y\r sample1 r9se (f y\r fea!rs 9 luke w>m wat]1 & proce$ to wa% ) soap & hot wat]1 & r9se ?or\ghly 9 boil+ wat]2 !n prep>e a fre% ba? z p] recipe1 & ent] y\r fea!rs1 us+ mu* c>e4 ,if f\nd too light = y\r sample1 add to ba? a little m turm]ic liquor1 & return fea!rs to ba? = a few seconds long]1 & dry4 ,,black4 ,! mo/ /aple & important ( all ! colors4 ,"s w argue t x is n a color2 ,i1 to ! contr>y1 h[ev]1 t x is n only a color1 b a comb9ation ( colors1 & x is ! k ( h[ to prop]ly comb9e !m t results 9 ! production ( a v h&some & glossy black4 ,twelve ye>s ago a ba? ( black t 0 comm5c$ on ,monday & 0 ready to g into ! dry+-room by ,saturday 0 consid]$ at t "t a mo/ exp$iti\s piece ( "w2 &1 ev5 up to ! pres5t "t1 "s ( our old or?odox dy]s1--^? old *ronic1 me?odical dy]s1--^? :o dye accord+ to ! mo/ approv$ & advantage\s me?ods ( half a c5tury ago1--/ill cont9ue to occupy ! great] "p ( a week 9 gett+ a black on :at 7by t "t7 is left ( ! fea!rs4 ,_! object f ! />t is to produce a black1 & !y g5]ally succe$4 ,beg91 if raw /ock1 by wa%+ & r9s+ ?or\ghly 9 ord] to remove all natural grease & dirt adh]+ to ! fibre4 ,if !y are old colors to be r$y$ a black1 x is n necess>y to wa% !m nor to blea* !m = ! purpose ( remov+ any ( ! color1 z ! black ba? w ov]come all ! o!r colors2 z1 = example1 a navy blue1 a bottle gre51 g>net1 etc41 c be all ent]$ at ! same "t1 & put ?r\gh precisely ! same process1 & !y w all be ! same %ade ( black :5 !y are dri$4 ,prep>e ba? by dilut+ a qu>t] p\nd ( turm]ic 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat] & br+ to a boil2 aft] :i* ent] y\r fea!rs1 & let rema9 9 ba? ab\t five m9utes1 keep+ !m well "u ! surface1 & g5tly mov+ :ile 9 ba?2 aft] :i* take fea!rs out & r9se twice 9 cle> cold wat]4 ,meantime dilute "o p\nd ( logwood 9 ab\t "o & a half gallons ( boil+ wat]1 & boil = ab\t fifte5 m9utes2 aft] :i* ent] y\r fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t f\r m9utes2 !n take out & r9se ?or\ghly 9 two wat]s4 ,dilute "o ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% 9 "o gallon1 m or less1 ( boil+ wat]1 en\gh to completely cov] up y\r fea!rs1 dissolv+ bi*romate ( pota% ?or\ghly4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs1 let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t ?ree m9utes2 aft] :i* take !m out & r9se ?or\ghly4 ,meantime h logwood ba? boil+1 & return fea!rs to x4 ,cov] up1 & let !m rema9 ab\t eight m9utes2 take out & r9se twice z be=e4 ,aft] r9s+1 prep>e a ba? ( ab\t half an ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% & salts ( t>t> ab\t ! size ( a pea 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]2 dissolve ?or\ghly4 ,let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t ?ree m9utes2 aft] :i* take out & r9se ?or\ghly 9 cold wat]4 ,!n mix a ba? ( hot soap-suds1 & ent] fea!rs2 wa% well & r9se 9 luke w>m wat]4 ,! wa%+ & r9s+ is n absolutely necess>y1 9 fact1 x c n mu* improve :at is already a clean1 glossy black4 ,wa%+1 h[ev]1 if productive ( a *ange at all1 mu/ be b5eficial4 ,!n proce$ to mix a small h&ful ( />* 9 a small quantity ( cold wat]2 pass fea!rs ?r\gh & dry4 ,:ile y\r fea!rs are 9 ! bi*romate ( pota% ba?1 !y mu/ be kept mov+ 9 ba? con/antly & well "u ! surface4 ,!re is no?+ to be add$ to make a successful result1 except x be to caution y to adh]e z /rictly z possible to ! recipe4 ,x (t5 occurs t fea!rs are br\ght 9 to be dipp$ ov] t h fad$ out1 or h gr[n ru/y look+ f exposure to light & long we>4 ,! color c be re/or$ by simply pass+ !m ?r\gh ! la/ two ba?s = ! same l5g? ( "t t is allott$ to ! regul> recipe4 ,dur+ ! process ( dry+ black be sure to h ! />* beat5 out z fa/ z x dries4 ,x is be/ to dry !m 9 ! op5 air1 &1 if possible1 all[ !m to hang 9 ! sun = a :ile1 z x improves ! color4 ,"o especial advantage ?is black has ov] mo/ o!rs1 is t x improves ) age2 &1 in/ead ( fad+1 ! black w gr[ m int5se4 ,,lilac4 ,wa% & r9se ?or\ghly 9 hot soap wat]1 & r9se 9 ab\t f\r wat]s to remove any p>ticle ( soap t may adh]e to ! fea!rs2 next prep>e ba? ( "o gallon ( h& w>m wat]1 & add a h&ful ( />*4 ,ent] fea!rs & rub ?or\ghly betwe5 ! h&s2 remove & add to ba? a few drops ( dilut$ violet1 accord+ to %ade requir$2 add ab\t two drops ( dilut$ saffran9e1 & re-ent] fea!rs1 let rema9 9 ba? ab\t ?ree m9utes1 squeeze out & dry 9 p[d]$ />* 9 ! usual way4 ,be sure y\r />* is clean & free f acid1 & also t y\r bo>d is 9 ! same condition4 ,great c>e %\ld be ex]cis$ to see t e p>ticle ( ! violet is dissolv$ to avoid spots on ! fea!rs4 ,%\ld q a blui% %ade be desir$1 a drop ( dilut$ anil9e gre5 add$ w produce ! desir$ result4 ,,g5d>me ,,blue4 ,prep>e fea!rs by wa%+ ?or\ghly1 & r9se ab\t f\r times 9 hot wat] to remove any p>ticle ( soap t may adh]e to ! fea!rs4 ,prep>e a ba? ( a teaspoonful ( indigot9e p[d] to "o gallon ( boil+ wat]4 ,mix ?or\ghly & ent] fea!rs1 & let rema9 9 ab\t "o m9ute1 aft] :i* remove & add ab\t "o teaspoonful ( oxalic acid or same quantity ( sulphuric acid1 & re-ent] fea!rs1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t five m9utes long]2 !n remove f ba? & cool (f4 ,res]ve a small portion ( ba?1 & cool (f ) cold wat]1 add+ a drop ( sulphuric acid & a small h&ful ( />*2 pass fea!rs ?r\gh & dry 9 p[d]$ />* by rubb+ betwe5 ! h&s or by simply beat+ out on a clean bo>d1 us$ only = dry+ acid colors4 ,%\ld y f9d y\r color too d>k1 ?or\ghly r9se (f all ! />* & pass fea!rs ?r\gh a ba? ( boil+ wat] & let rema9 ab\t half a m9ute2 pass ?r\gh />* ba? & dry4 ,if f\nd too light1 simply increase temp]ature ( ba? by add+ boil+ wat] & few drops m indigot9e2 re-ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? a c\ple ( m9utes long]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,olive--page #cf4 ,illu/ration3 ,,pla91 ,,drab--page #gh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,t]ra ,,cotta--page #db4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plum--page #ce4 ,,trileul4 ,wa% & r9se fea!rs ?or\ghly 9 hot wat] & soap1 & r9se ?or\ghly 9 ab\t f\r hot wat]s2 !n pass ?r\gh a ba? ( pla9 boil+ wat]2 next prep>e a ba? ( "o gallon ( luke w>m wat]1 & add a h&ful ( />*4 ,ent] fea!rs & rub ?or\ghly betwe5 ! h&s2 remove & add a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid2 ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes2 !n remove & add to ba? a few drops ( dilut$ picric acid1 & re-ent] fea!rs2 let rema9 9 ab\t "o m9ute long]1 take out & dry 9 ! usual way by rubb+ 9 p[d]$ />* betwe5 ! h&s & beat+ out on a clean bo>d until all ! />* has be5 remov$ f ! fibre4 ,%\ld y f9d y\r color a %ade too d>k1 mix a luke w>m />* ba?1 & pass fea!rs ?r\gh1 keep+ !m "u ab\t half a m9ute1 & dry z usual4 ,be c>eful t y\r picric acid is ?or\ghly dissolv$1 z o!rwise x w be likely to spot y\r fea!rs1 if ! p>ticles come 9 contact ) ! flues1 & ! spots are v h>d to remove1 z x w\ld be necess>y to put !m ?r\gh a blea*+ process4 ,,army ,,blue4 ,prep>e fea!rs by wa%+ & r9s+ ?or\ghly 9 hot wat]4 ,be c>eful ab\t r9s+ to remove e p>ticle ( soap t may adh]e to ! fibre1 aft] :i* prep>e ba? z foll[s3 ,"o teaspoonful ( indigot9e p[d]1 dilut$ 9 "o gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & add !reto ab\t half a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid1 /irr+ ar\nd well to ?or\ghly dissolve e p>ticle ( color4 ,ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t f\r m9utes2 aft] :i* take out & r9se 9 luke w>m wat] to remove ! acid 9 fea!rs2 next prep>e a ba? ( "o gallon ( h& w>m wat] & add a small h&ful ( />*2 add !reto a cupful ( boil$ logwood liquor & a few gra9s ( copp]as1 ent] fea!rs1 let rema9 9 ba? ab\t ?ree m9utes2 take out & dry by rubb+ betwe5 ! h&s 9 p[d]$ />*1 & beat out on a clean bo>d until all ! />* has be5 remov$4 ,%\ld y f9d y\r color d>k] ?an %ade requir$1 prep>e a ba? ( half a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 a gallon ( h& w>m wat]1 & pass fea!rs ?r\gh ab\t half a m9ute2 take out & pass ?r\gh boil+ wat]1 aft] :i* pass ?r\gh />* ba? & dry4 ,%\ld y f9d %ade too light1 add m logwood to ba?1 increase temp]ature1 let rema9 9 a c\ple ( m9utes long] & dry4 ,,purple4 ,prep>e fea!rs by wa%+ 9 hot wat] & soap ?or\ghly1 & aft]w>ds r9se 9 ab\t f\r hot wat]s to remove e p>ticle ( soap & dirt2 aft] :i* prep>e ba? z foll[s3 ,take "o gallon ( wat] ab\t #bjj ,fah42 dilute !re9 half a teaspoonful ( ,violet #c ,b41 /irr+ x ar\nd ?or\ghly to dissolve e p>ticle4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & let rema9 ab\t five m9utes2 aft] :i* take out & p\r out ! ba?1 res]v+ "s1 & cool+ x (f ) cold1 clean wat]1 add a small h&ful ( />* & pass fea!rs ?r\gh1 fir/ cool+ !m (f by %ak+ !m 9 ! air2 rub !m betwe5 ! h&s 9 />* ba? to aid ! flue or fibre to exp&2 aft] :i* squeeze out & rub ?or\ghly betwe5 ! h&s1 & beat out on a clean bo>d until e p>ticle ( />* has be5 remov$4 ,%\ld y f9d ! top or tips a d>k] %ade ?an ! bottom1 or %\ld !y bronze or assume a metallic appe>ance1 pass fea!rs ?r\gh a b[l ( boil+ wat] ) a small p9* ( soda add$1 & r9se2 aft] :i* pass ?r\gh a new />* ba? ) a few drops ( dilut$ violet add$2 take out & dry4 ,,m$ium ,,gre54 ,prep>e y\r fea!rs same z = bottle gre54 ,prep>e ba? by dilut+ ab\t "o ounce ( turm]ic 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & ent] fea!rs1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes2 aft] :i* take out & r9se 9 cold wat] twice4 ,h boil+ a m$ium /rong ba? ( logwood1 & pass fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds1 fir/ cool+ (f temp]ature ( logwood ba? a few degrees ) cold wat]2 aft] :i* r9se (f ?or\ghly1 & prep>e a ba? ( a qu>t] ( an ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 dissolve x ?or\ghly1 & ent] fea!rs2 let !m rema9 9 ?is ba? ab\t t5 seconds1 & take !m out & r9se ?or\ghly 9 cold wat]4 ,proce$ to dilute "o teaspoonful ( turm]ic & a half teaspoonful ( anil9e gre5 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & r$uce temp]ature a few degrees ) cold wat]4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs1 & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t ?ree m9utes2 !n take !m out & cool (f a small portion ( ba?1 & add a small h&ful ( />*1 & dry 9 ! usual way4 ,if f\nd to be too d>k1 add a few drops ( dilut$ oxalic acid to />* ba?1 & pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds4 ,if f\nd too light1 r9se (f ! />* 9 cold wat] & return to logwood ba? = a few seconds1 )\t increas+ ! temp]ature any1 & r9se (f & give a weak ba? ( bi*romate ( pota%1 r9se (f & dry4 ,,beige4 ,prep>e y\r fea!rs by wa%+ & r9s+ ?or\ghly1 or if old light colors1 blea* ) p]manganate ( pota%1 be+ sure to r9se out 9 hot wat] to remove acid f fea!rs1 be=e putt+ 9 ba?4 ,dilute a small quantity ( />* 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & ent] y\r fea!rs1 rubb+ !m ar\nd 9 ba? betwe5 ! h&s to exp&s ! flues & admit ! color ev5ly on fea!rs4 ,aft] :i* add to ba? a small p9* ( copp]as1 ab\t ! size ( a bean1 & ab\t a teaspoonful ( turm]ic1 & ent] y\r fea!rs1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute2 take !m out1 & add ab\t a teaspoonful ( logwood liquor2 re-ent] y\r fea!rs1 & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute1 fir/ increas+ ! temp]ature by add+ hot wat]2 aft] :i* remove fea!rs f ba?1 & add !reto a few drops ( dilut$ ,bism>ck br[n4 ,to br+ ! ecru t9t desir$1 a few seconds be=e tak+ fea!rs f ba? to dry1 add a c\ple ( drops ( dilut$ violet1 squeeze out & dry4 ,if a v d>k %ade ( beige is want$ use a great] am\nt ( logwood & ,bism>ck br[n1 & if light] %ade is desir$1 less color %\ld be us$4 ,%\ld y\r color be f\nd altoge!r too d>k = sample1 dilute ab\t half a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 a gallon ( hot wat]1 m or less4 ,pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds1 & r9se (f twice 9 luke w>m wat] & once 9 boil+ wat]4 ,!n mix a fre% ba? ( luke w>m wat] & />*1 & add !reto a small proportion ( turm]ic & dilut$ ,bism>ck br[n1 & copp]as ab\t ! size ( a pea4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs1 &1 us+ c>e1 br+ to ! desir$ %ade4 ,illu/ration3 ,,navy ,,blue--page #ca4 ,illu/ration3 ,,mag5ta--page #fi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,pea ,,gre5--page #hj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,bronze--page #gd4 ,,corn ,,color4 ,prep>e fea!rs by wa%+ & r9s+ ?or\ghly if dirty greasy :ites1 or blea* ) p]manganate ( pota% if fad$ out light colors4 ,prep>e y\r ba? z foll[s3 ,take "o gallon ( luke w>m wat] & dilute !re9 a small h&ful ( />*1 & rub y\r fea!rs ar\nd betwe5 ! h&s4 ,add ab\t a half teaspoonful ( turm]ic & dilute well 9 ba?4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & rub ar\nd well betwe5 ! h&s4 ,increase ! temp]ature ( y\r ba? by add+ hot wat]1 & all[ y\r fea!rs to rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute2 !n take !m out & add a c\ple ( drops ( dilut$ anil9e br[n2 re-ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute long]2 !n squeeze out & dry z usual4 ,if y\r %ade to mat* be consid]ably on ! yell[ %ade1 use v little anil9e br[n1 ab\t "o drop1 & if m on ! br[n1 use less turm]ic4 ,if y\r color be entirely too d>k & dull look+1 dilute half a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid1 & pass fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds & r9se (f 9 luke w>m wat]4 ,prep>e a fre% ba? & ent] y\r fea!rs1 z p] recipe2 or1 if want$ a v bright %ade1 wa% (f ) soap & hot wat]1 & r9se ?or\ghly 9 hot wat]4 ,!n prep>e a ba? ( "o teaspoonful ( turm]ic1 "o teaspoonful ( oxalic acid & "o teaspoonful ( dilut$ ,bism>ck br[n 9 a gallon ( luke w>m wat]4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & keep 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes1 add a little />* to ba?1 & pass fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds long]1 squeeze out & dry 9 ! usual way4 ,,electric ,,blue4 ,fea!rs mu/ be :ite1 or ne>ly s1 to make a good cle> %ade ( electric blue4 ,prep>e y\r fea!rs by wa%+ ) soap & hot wat] if dirty :ites1 & if old1 fad$ light colors blea* ) p]manganate ( pota%4 ,prep>e y\r ba? z foll[s3 ,take half a teaspoonful ( cotton blue & a half teaspoonful ( oxalic acid1--a little m or less matt]s n1--9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs1 & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t five m9utes2 aft] :i* take out & r9se twice 9 cold wat] & once 9 hot wat] to remove all acid & loose color4 ,prep>e a ba? ( ab\t "o cupful ( logwood liquor & a small p9* ( copp]as 9 a gallon ( hot wat]1 n q boil+1 h[ev]1 & pass fea!rs ?r\gh = a c\ple ( m9utes4 ,cool (f a little ( y\r ba?1 & add a small h&ful ( />* & a few drops ( violet1 pass fea!rs ?r\gh & dry4 ,,m$ium ,,br[n4 ,all light colors c be made a h&some %ade ( m$ium br[n )\t remov+ ! color by blea*+ or )\t wa%+1 unless v dirty & greasy4 ,prep>e y\r ba? by dilut+ ab\t two ounces ( turm]ic & a half ounce ( copp]as 9 "o gallon1 m or less1 ( boil+ wat]4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs1 keep !m well "u ! surface ( ba?1 & let !m rema9 !re9 ab\t two m9utes2 aft] :i* take out1 r9se twice 9 cold wat]4 ,h boil+ meantime a m$ium /rong ba? ( logwood1 ab\t ! same proportion z = black2 boil ab\t fifte5 m9utes1 & ent] y\r fea!rs1 all[+ !m to rema9 9 ab\t "o m9ute2 aft] :i* take out & r9se (f twice 9 cold wat]2 !n dilute ab\t a half teaspoonful ( anil9e br[n 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & aft] dissolv+ well1 ent] y\r fea!rs1 & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes2 take out & r9se 9 cold wat]2 aft] :i* dilute a small h&ful ( />* 9 a small quantity ( luke w>m wat]1 & add to t a c\ple ( drops ( sulphuric acid2 pass fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds1 squeeze out & dry4 ,%\ld y\r color be too d>k to mat* sample1 return to />* ba?1 add a few drops ( sulphuric acid1 let fea!rs rema9 9 ab\t half a m9ute1 & dry4 ,if a d>k] %ade is want$1 x is necess>y to r9se (f />* 9 cold wat]1 & return y\r fea!rs to logwood ba? = a few seconds1 r9se (f & repeat ,bism>ck br[n ba? z be=e4 ,by ?is process1 ) a little judgm5t1 all %ades ( br[n c be produc$ 9 ! mo/ satisfactory mann]4 ,,m$ium ,,blue4 ,prep>e y\r fea!rs by wa%+ & r9s+ ?or\ghly 9 hot wat]2 light fad$ out colors ne$ n be blea*$1 b ?or\ghly wa%$ 9 hot soap suds in/ead4 ,prep>e y\r ba? z foll[s3 ,take "o teaspoonful ( conc5trat$ cotton blue & "o teaspoonful ( oxalic acid1 dilute x 9 "o gallon ( boil+ wat]4 ,be c>eful to see t ! blue cry/als are well dissolv$4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs1 & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t f\r m9utes1 keep+ !m well "u ! surface4 ,meantime keep !m g5tly agitat$ to insure an ev5 color2 aft] :i* take out1 r9se1 />* & dry4 ,if y\r fea!rs be f\nd too d>k = sample1 or too mu* on ! purple1 r9se (f1 />* 9 cold wat] ?or\ghly1 & pass ?r\gh a b[l ( boil+ wat]1 />* & dry1 us+ a few gra9s ( oxalic acid dilut$ 9 />* ba?4 ,if a v light %ade be desir$1 use b half ! quantity ( cotton blue1 & d n all[ !m to rema9 9 ba? q s long a "t4 ,if a mu* d>k] %ade be requir$ ?an ! =ego+ recipe w produce1 !n r9se (f y\r fea!rs ?or\ghly 9 cold wat]1 to remove all />*1 & pass fea!rs ?r\gh a m$ium /rong ba? ( logwood at boil+ temp]ature = a few seconds1 & r9se (f twice 9 cold wat]2 dilute a half ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds only2 r9se1 />* & dry4 ,%\ld y get y\r color too d>k by ?is process1 pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh a solution ( half a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & r9se (f 9 boil+ wat] twice2 !n dilute a small quantity ( />* 9 luke w>m wat]1 add a few gra9s ( oxalic acid to x1 pass fea!rs ?r\gh & dry z usual4 ,,mag5ta4 ,prep>e y\r fea!rs1 :e!r dirty :ites or fad$ out light colors1 by wa%+ ?or\ghly 9 hot soap suds & r9s+ well 9 hot wat]4 ,prep>e y\r ba? z foll[s3 ,take ab\t a half teaspoonful ( safran9e & dilute 9 "o gallon1 m or less1 ( boil+ wat]1 & add !reto a half tablespoonful ( extract ( ar*il4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes2 aft] :i* take out & add to ba? a few drops ( dilut$ violet1 & re-ent] y\r fea!rs1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute long]4 ,!n take out & r9se 9 cold wat]1 & dilute a small h&ful ( />* 9 b[l ( luke w>m wat]2 pass fea!rs ?r\gh & dry4 ,if f\nd too r$ = sample1 r9se (f & add to ba? a tablespoonful ( extract ( ar*il2 return fea!rs to ba? = ab\t "o m9ute1 fir/1 h[ev]1 increas+ temp]ature2 next r9se1 />* & dry4 ,if f\nd to be too mu* on ! plum = sample1 r9se (f & add to ba? ab\t a qu>t] teaspoonful ( safran9e1 increase temp]ature ( ba? to almo/ boil+2 ent] fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute2 aft] :i* r9se1 />* & dry4 ,if f\nd to be too light1 add a few drops ( dilut$ violet to ba?2 &1 if too d>k1 dilute a half teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 "o gallon ( luke w>m wat]1 & pass fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds1 r9se (f twice or m 9 boil+ wat]2 !n prep>e ba? same z p] recipe1 & all[ !m to rema9 until desir$ %ade is obta9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,black--page #ec4 ,illu/ration3 ,,electric ,,blue--page #fe4 ,illu/ration3 ,,sc>let--page #ej4 ,illu/ration3 ,,moss--page #gf4 ,,sea ,,foam4 ,?is is a v delicate %ade ( color bord]+ on pea gre54 ,y\r fea!rs mu/ be :ite1 or ne>ly s4 ,if dirty :ites1 wa% & r9se ?or\ghly2 &1 if old fad$ out colors1 pass ?r\gh blea* ( p]manganate ( pota%2 aft] :i* prep>e y\r ba? ( "o gallon ( luke w>m wat] & a small h&ful ( />*1 & ent] y\r fea!rs1 rubb+ !m ar\nd betwe5 ! h&s4 ,take fea!rs f ba? & add ab\t a half teaspoonful ( turm]ic2 re-ent] y\r fea!rs1 keep+ !m mov+ ar\nd 9 ba? ab\t half a m9ute4 ,!n take out y\r fea!rs & add to ba? a c\ple ( drops ( dilut$ anil9e gre54 ,re-ent] fea!rs1 fir/ increas+ ! temp]ature ( y\r ba? a few degrees by add+ hot wat]1 let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes long]1 squeeze out & dry 9 ! usual way4 ,%\ld y\r sample be m on ! gre51 y w simply add a few drops m dilut$ anil9e gre52 & if m on ! yell[1 y c use less4 ,if ! %ade to be mat*$ be d>k] ?an y\r fea!rs1 add m ( ea* color 9 ! prep>ation ( fir/ ba?4 ,if a r dull %ade be desir$1 :i* 9 ?is color is q frequ5tly ! case1 a small p9* ( copp]as ab\t ! size ( a pea w h ! desir$ effect4 ,%\ld y f9d y\r color entirely too d>k = y\r sample1 wa% (f ?or\ghly 9 soap suds1 & r9se 9 hot wat]2 aft] :i* dilute a half teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 a gallon ( luke w>m wat]1 pass fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds & r9se (f 9 luke w>m wat]4 ,!n prep>e y\r ba? z p] recipe1 us+ a little m c>e & judgm5t 9 y\r second attempt4 ,,salmon4 ,h y\r fea!rs :ite1 or ne>ly s1 by wa%+ if dirty1 or blea*+ ) p]manganate if ne$$1 be+ c>eful to r9se ?or\ghly = ! purpose ( remov+ any acid or soap2 aft] :i* prep>e y\r ba? z foll[s3 ,take "o gallon ( luke w>m wat] & a small h&ful ( />*4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & rub ar\nd betwe5 ! h&s = a few seconds2 !n add to ba? a few drops ( dilut$ safran9e & copp]as ab\t ! size ( a pea4 ,let y\r fea!rs rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute2 aft] :i* take out & add to ba? ab\t "o teaspoonful ( dilut$ ,bism>ck br[n1 fir/ increas+ temp]ature ( ba? a few degrees ) hot wat]2 re-ent] y\r fea!rs & all[ !m to rema9 9 ba? ab\t a m9ute2 aft] :i* squeeze out & dry 9 ! usual way4 ,if y\r sample to be mat*$ be m on ! p9k1 use less anil9e br[n2 & if m on ! yell[1 use less safran9e & m anil9e br[n4 ,%\ld y desire a mu* d>k] %ade1 use m ( ea* color ?an laid d[n 9 recipe1 & add a few drops ( logwood liquor4 ,if y\r fea!rs be f\nd altoge!r too d>k = sample1 r9se (f />* 9 cold wat] & dilute a half teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 luke w>m wat]1 & pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds1 take out & r9se a c\ple ( times 9 hot wat] 7n boil+74 ,prep>e ba? aga9 z p] recipe1 us+ great] c>e4 ,?is %ade ( color is on ! ord] ( ! t]ra cotta & cru%$ /rawb]ry1 & c be made 9 ! same ba? by add+ color or dilut+4 ,be c>eful 9 dry+ to use only clean />* & a clean bo>d t has n be5 us$ ) any acid colors4 ,,/one ,,color4 ,/one color is a %ade v>y+ v slightly f slate & smoke color4 ,all light %ades c be us$ = ?is color2 fir/ prep>+ !m by wa%+ & r9s+ !m ?or\ghly4 ,prep>e a m$ium /rong ba? ( logwood by boil+ = ab\t fifte5 m9utes2 aft] :i* ent] y\r fea!rs1 & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t two or ?ree m9utes1 long] if a v d>k %ade be requir$2 !n take !m out & r9se 9 cold wat] twice4 ,prep>e a ba? ( half ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% 9 "o gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & dissolve ?or\ghly4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs1 & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes1 keep+ !m well "u ! surface ( ba? & mov+ at ! same "t1 to assi/ 9 produc+ an ev5 color2 aft] :i* take out & r9se (f ab\t ?ree times 9 cold wat]1 & prep>e a ba? ( hot soap wat]4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs1 & wa% ?or\ghly1 add+ to ba? a small p9* ( soda2 aft] :i* r9se c>efully 9 hot wat]2 dissolve a small h&ful ( />* 9 cold wat]1 pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh1 squeeze out & dry 9 ! usual way4 ,if y\r fea!rs be f\nd mu* too light = y\r sample to be mat*$1 r9se (f />* 9 cold wat]1 & return y\r fea!rs to logwood ba? = a few seconds2 dissolve a small p9* ( copp]as 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]1 r$uce temp]ature a little & ent] y\r fea!rs1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ba? a few seconds4 ,take out & pass ?r\gh />* & dry4 ,if f\nd to be altoge!r too d>k1 dilute a teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 a gallon ( hot wat]2 pass fea!rs ?r\gh a few seconds & r9se (f 9 boil+ wat] twice2 wa%1 />* & dry4 ,,bronze4 ,wa% & r9se ?or\ghly1 us+ soap = wa%+1 & r9se out 9 hot wat] ab\t f\r times2 aft] :i* prep>e a ba? ( "o qu>t] p\nd ( turm]ic to "o gallon ( boil+ wat]4 ,ent] fea!rs & let rema9 9 ba? ab\t ?ree m9utes2 take out & r9se4 ,boil a ba? ( half p\nd ( logwood to "o gallon ( wat] ab\t t5 m9utes2 ent] fea!rs & let rema9 9 ba? ab\t f\r m9utes2 take out & r9se4 ,!n prep>e a ba? ( half an ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% & "o gallon ( boil+ wat]1 & let fea!rs rema9 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes1 take out & r9se4 ,next prep>e a ba? ( "o qu>t] p\nd ( turm]ic & "o-qu>t] teaspoonful ( ,victoria gre5 cry/als1 & add "o gallon ( boil+ wat]4 ,ent] fea!rs & let rema9 9 ba? ab\t f\r m9utes2 take out1 cool (f a small portion ( ! ba? & add a small h&ful ( />*4 ,pass fea!rs ?r\gh & dry 9 p[d]$ />* by press+ betwe5 ! h&s2 !n beat on a bo>d or table until all ! />* is remov$ f ! fea!r4 ,,*ocolate4 ,prep>e y\r fea!rs by wa%+ & r9s+ ?or\ghly2 &1 if necess>y1 blea* ) p]manganate ( pota%4 ,aft] do+ ?is1 r9se ?or\ghly 9 hot wat] = ! purpose ( remov+ all acid f ! fibre4 ,prep>e y\r ba? ( "o gallon ( wat] at boil+ temp]ature2 add !reto a teaspoonful ( turm]ic & a small p9* ( copp]as ab\t ! size ( a bean4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & all[ !m to rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute or long]4 ,take out y\r fea!rs1 & add to ba? ab\t "o tablespoonful ( dilut$ ,bism>ck ,br[n & a few drops ( dilut$ violet2 re-ent] y\r fea!rs1 & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t ?ree m9utes1 keep+ !m mean:ile well "u ! surface ( ! ba?2 aft] :i* take !m out1 cool (f a small portion ( ! ba?1 & add !reto a small h&ful ( />*2 pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh & dry 9 ! usual way4 ,if a v d>k %ade be requir$1 y w add to ba? ab\t a tablespoonful ( logwood liquor at ! same "t y add ! violet1 & all[ !m to rema9 9 ba? a little long]4 ,%\ld y f9d y\r color entirely too d>k = y\r sample to be mat*$1 r9se (f />* 9 cold wat]2 dilute ab\t a half teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 a gallon or m ( hot wat]4 ,pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh1 & r9se (f 9 luke w>m wat] twice2 !n pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh a ba? ( boil+ wat]1 = ! purpose ( effectively remov+ ! acid2 aft] :i* prep>e aga9 z call$ = 9 recipe1 us+ a little m c>e1 & ! desir$ result w be obta9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,seal ,,br[n--page #bi4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cru%$ ,,/rawb',y--page #cd4 ,illu/ration3 ,,orange--page #dh4 ,illu/ration3 ,,bism>ck ,,br[n--page #bh4 ,,moss ,,color4 ,wa% y\r fea!rs & r9se ?or\ghly4 ,prep>e y\r ba? ( qu>t] p\nd ( turm]ic & a half ounce ( copp]as dilut$ 9 a gallon or m ( boil+ wat]4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes2 aft] :i* take out & r9se twice 9 cold wat]4 ,meantime h a m$ium /rong ba? ( logwood boil+1 & ent] y\r fea!rs1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ab\t "o m9ute1 take out & r9se4 ,!n prep>e a ba? ( ab\t two ounces ( turm]ic & a small p9* ( anil9e gre5 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & all[ !m to rema9 9 ba? ab\t ?ree m9utes or long]4 ,take out & cool (f a small quantity ( ba? ) cold wat]2 add a small h&ful ( />*1 pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh & dry4 ,if y\r color be f\nd too mu* on ! gre5 = y\r sample to be mat*$1 add to />* ba? a few drops ( sulphuric acid2 or1 in/ead1 r9se (f />* & mix a ba? ( two ounces ( turm]ic 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]2 pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh = a m9ute or s1 />* & dry4 ,if f\nd to be too mu* on ! yell[ or olive1 add to y\r ba? a few gra9s ( anil9e gre51 & return !m to ! same = a few seconds1 fir/ r9s+ (f />* 9 cold wat]4 ,if f\nd too light1 pass = a few seconds ?r\gh a weak ba? ( bi*romate ( pota%2 & if too d>k1 dilute a few gra9s ( oxalic acid 9 hot wat]1 & add to y\r />* ba? a few drops4 ,pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds & dry 9 ! usual way4 ,,pla9 ,,drab4 ,if y\r fea!rs are old1 dirty :ites1 wa% & r9se !m ?or\ghly4 ,if light colors1 remove ! same by pass+ ?r\gh p]manganate ( pota% process1 & use great c>e 9 r9s+ to remove all ! acid be=e ent]+ 9 ba?4 ,prep>e y\r ba? ) "o gallon ( luke w>m wat] & a small h&ful ( />*2 ent] y\r fea!rs & rub !m ar\nd well 9 ba? betwe5 ! h&s to exp& ! fibres4 ,take out y\r fea!rs1 & add to ba? a small piece ( copp]as ab\t ! size ( a bean & ab\t a qu>t] cupful ( logwood liquor2 re-ent] y\r fea!rs1 & let !m rema9 9 ba? a few m9utes1 meantime add+ a small quantity ( hot wat] to increase temp]ature ( ba?2 !n add a c\ple ( drops ( dilut$ safran9e to ba?1 let rema9 9 ba? "o m9ute long]1 squeeze out & dry z usual4 ,if want$ m on ! %ade ( felt drab1 use1 in/ead ( safran9e1 a few drops ( ,bism>ck br[n2 & if want$ m on ! /eel1 use a few drops ( dilut$ violet 9 ba?4 ,if a d>k] %ade %\ld be desir$1 use only a little m logwood liquor1 & all[ !m to rema9 a %ort "t 9 ba?4 ,%\ld y f9d y\r color to be altoge!r too d>k = sample to be mat*$1 r9se (f />*1 & dilute a half teaspoonful ( oxalic acid 9 hot wat]2 pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh1 r9se (f a c\ple ( times 9 luke w>m wat] & la/ly ?r\gh boil+ wat]1 = ! purpose ( remov+ all acid4 ,!n prep>e a fre% ba? accord+ to recipe1 & pass ?r\gh until y h obta9$ ! desir$ %ade4 ,,c(fee ,,color4 ,old fad$ out light colors ne$ only to be ?or\ghly wa%$ & r9s$ to prep>e !m = ?is color2 & d>k] colors c be prep>$ by blea*+ ) p]manganate ( pota%1 tak+ c>e to r9se ?or\ghly 9 hot wat] = ! purpose ( remov+ all ! acid4 ,prep>e y\r ba? ( ab\t "o teaspoonful ( turm]ic & copp]as ab\t ! size ( a bean 9 a gallon ( boil+ wat]4 ,ent] y\r fea!rs & let rema9 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes2 remove fea!rs f ba? & add a half cupful ( logwood liquor & return fea!rs to ba?1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ab\t "o m9ute2 aft] :i* remove fea!rs & add to y\r ba? ab\t two tablespoonfuls ( dilut$ ,bism>ck br[n & hot wat] to increase temp]ature ( ba?2 re-ent] fea!rs & all[ !m to rema9 9 ab\t two m9utes2 aft] :i* cool (f a small quantity ( ! ba? & add a small h&ful ( />*2 pass fea!rs ?r\gh & dry4 ,if f\nd to be too light1 return to ba?1 fir/ add+ m logwood liquor & ,bism>ck br[n1 & let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute4 ,if too d>k = y\r sample to be mat*$1 dilute a few gra9s ( oxalic acid 9 luke w>m wat]2 pass fea!rs ?r\gh = a few seconds & r9se (f ?ree times 9 luke w>m wat]4 ,!n prep>e ba? z p] recipe1 us+ m c>e 9 ! prep>ation4 ,if f\nd too mu* on ! yell[1 a few drops ( dilut$ safran9e add$ to y\r ba? w produce ! desir$ effect4 ,use clean />* 9 dry+2 if a table or bo>d is us$1 see t x is p]fectly clean & free f acid4 ,,pea ,,gre54 ,prep>e y\r fea!rs by wa%+ ?or\ghly 9 hot wat]1 & r9se ?or\ghly to remove any soap t may adh]e to ! fea!rs4 ,!n prep>e a ba? by dilut+ a h&ful ( />* 9 a half gallon ( h& w>m wat]1 & rub fea!rs ar\nd betwe5 ! h&s4 ,remove fea!rs & a add a few drops ( dilut$ ,victoria gre5 & a c\ple ( drops ( dilut$ picric acid4 ,ent] fea!rs1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t two m9utes1 keep+ !m well "u ! surface to insure an ev5 color4 ,if want$ a %ade m on ! yell[1 add a drop m ( picric acid2 & if m on ! blue1 leave ! picric acid out entirely4 ,take out & dry 9 />*1 be+ c>eful to beat out on a clean bo>d 9 ! usual way4 ,,olive ,,br[n4 ,wa% fea!rs ?or\ghly 9 hot wat] & soap1 & r9se ab\t f\r times 9 hot wat]2 aft] :i* prep>e a ba? ( half a p\nd ( logwood2 fir/ ent] fea!rs 9 "o-qu>t] p\nd ( turm]ic & "o gallon ( boil+ wat]2 let !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t f\r m9utes4 ,:5 logwood ba? has boil$ suffici5tly1 say t5 m9utes1 r9se fea!rs out ( turm]ic 9 cold wat]2 & ent] 9 logwood1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t six m9utes2 take out & r9se4 ,prep>e a ba? ( half an ounce ( bi*romate ( pota% & "o gallon ( boil+ wat]2 ent] fea!rs & let rema9 9 ba? ab\t "o m9ute2 take out & r9se ?or\ghly 9 cold wat]4 ,mix a ba? ( "o ounce ( turm]ic to "o ounce ( ar*il & half ! old logwood ba?2 br+ to a boil & ent] fea!rs1 lett+ !m rema9 9 ba? ab\t six m9utes2 take out & r9se4 ,!n mix a ba? ( luke w>m wat] & />*1 add a c\ple ( drops ( sulphuric acid & a c\ple ( drops ( picric acid dilut$1 pass fea!rs ?r\gh1 squeeze out ?or\ghly & dry by rubb+ 9 p[d]$ />* betwe5 ! h&s2 beat out on a clean bo>d until all ! />* is remov$ f ! fea!rs4 ,illu/ration3 ,,m$ium ,,br[n--page #ff4 ,illu/ration3 ,,old-,,gold--page #ci4 ,illu/ration3 ,,c>d9al--page #cc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,m$ium ,,gre5--page #fa4 ,,process ,,( ,,degrad+ ,,or ,,blea*+ ,,natural ,,gray ,,or ,,black ,,:ite4 ,beg9 by wa%+ & r9s+ y\r fea!rs ?or\ghly2 aft] :i* soak 9 a ba? ( comp\nd ( "o gallon ( ammonia to eight gallons ( wat] = ab\t eight h\rs2 take fea!rs out & squeeze out ! excess ( ammonia :i* is 9 ! flues4 ,put y\r fea!rs 9 ! p]oxide ( hydrog5 ) an addition ( twelve to sixte5 ounces ( ammonia to "o five gallon c or demijohn1 & let x "w sl[ly1 /irr+ fea!rs f "t to "t = ab\t six h\rs2 aft] :i* lay y\r fea!rs on "o side ( ! tub & add to ! p]oxide ( hydrog5 ba? ab\t f\r ounces m ( ammonia2 /ir ! ba? well to insure a ?or\gh mixture ( ! p]oxide ( hydrog5 ) ! ammonia4 ,! p]oxide ( hydrog5 w cont9ue to "w = ab\t twelve h\rs m1 until x becomes ?or\ghly exhau/$2 aft] :i* take out y\r fea!rs & r9se a few times 9 luke w>m wat]4 ,!n proce$ to put !m 9 a second ba? ( p]oxide ( hydrog5 to be prep>$ z foll[s3 ,to a half gallon demijohn ( p]oxide ( hydrog5 add two & a half gallons ( wat]1 & add !reto ab\t eight ounces ( ammonia4 ,!n ent] y\r fea!rs1 & all[ ! ba? to "w a few h\rs2 aga9 add ab\t two ounces ( ammonia by ! same process z be=e1 & !n let x "w a few h\rs long]1 or until ! ba? becomes exhau/$4 ,to asc]ta9 :e!r total exhau/ion has tak5 place1 take a small portion ( ! ba? 9 a glass & dilute !re9 a few gra9s ( p]manganate ( pota%2 if x be n totally exhau/$1 bubbles w appe> on ! surface2 if exhau/$1 none w be noticeable4 ,aft] y\r fea!rs h be5 remov$ f ! ba? !y mu/ be c>efully r9s$ (f 9 ?ree or f\r wat]s1 a few degrees m ?an luke w>m4 ,!n prep>e a w>m soap ba?1 & all[ y\r fea!rs to rema9 9 a few m9utes2 aft] :i* r9se (f ?or\ghly 9 luke w>m wat]2 dilute a small h&ful ( />* 9 a quantity ( cold wat]1 pass y\r fea!rs ?r\gh & dry4 ,all natural color w h entirely disappe>$4 ,:atev] portion ( ! am\nt ( fea!rs y h j blea*$ are = :ites1 be=e dry+ !m up1 prep>e a ba? z p] recipe = :ite1 pass ?r\gh & dry 9 ! usual way4 ,?is process ( blea*+ is us$ only :5 x is desirable to make light colors f gray or natural black fea!rs1 b fea!rs = navy blue1 seal br[n1 bottle gre51 etc41 w n be improv$ by blea*+4 ,! %ade ( color c be ev5$ (f 9 ! ba?4 ,,h9ts ,,ab\t ,,! ,,dyeh\se4 ,9 dyeh\ses :]e /eam is us$1 x is necess>y to boil y\r ba? a long] "t ?an :]e ! ba? comes 9 direct contact ) ! fire4 ,! accommodations ( a dyeh\se = ! re-dy+ ( o/ri* fea!rs ne$ be v simple & inexp5sive2 9 fact1 ,i h se5 a dyeh\se :]e old re-dy$ transi5t "w to ! am\nt ( fifty doll>s p] day 0 accompli%$ ) a small cook+ /ove1 a wa%-boil]1 a wa%-b[l & a t9 dipp]2 co/+ 9 all less ?an six doll>s4 ,( c\rse1 9 ! manufacture ( raw /ock x is necess>y to h l>g] vessels & mu* bett] facilities2 = in/ance1 in/ead ( f t5 to fifty1 or ev5 a hundr$ fea!rs1 y w ( necessity be compell$ to dye lots ( f five to t5 p\nds ( goods at "o "t4 ,two /ation>y tubs or vats1 "o = use 9 wa%+ :ite & blea*+1 & ! o!r = black1 ) wat] pipes & /eam pipes & connections2 a few l>ge porcela9 l9$ or copp] bas9s = d>k colors are ess5tial2 x is also well to h an out] room or inclos$ closet to keep y\r dye/uffs 91 z x is important t !y be kept clean4 ,:5 cans ( color are op5$ = ! purpose ( dilut+ a portion or mak+ a color1 h ! cov] replac$ & return$ to closet :5 ?r\gh ) x4 ,h b5* or table :]eon re/s y\r bas9s1 :ile y mat* %ades 9 mak+ colors1 if possible1 :]e a nor? light w /rike x2 & if cold wea!r & ! w9d[s clos$1 keep ! glass clean4 ,y w (t5 get v>i\s reflections 9 ! dyeh\se t cause a great deal ( tr\ble to ! dy]2 z1 = example1 if ! sun %\ld be %9+ on a r$ brick wall & ! reflection beat+ into ! dyeh\se1 x w (t5 lead ! dy] a/ray1 & :ile he ?9ks he has a p]fect mat*1 :5 ! color goes into ! (fice !re is a decid$ diff]5ce4 ,! great majority :o are expect$ to be b5efitt$ by ?is "w are n o/ri* fea!r manufactur]s1 b ! job dy]2 & x is my object to simplify ! dyeh\se z well z ! me?ods ( dye+4 ,a small corn] ( ! dyeh\se c be us$1 & a c\ple ( ord9>y wa%-b[ls1 a common wa%-boil] & a t9 dipp] are really all ! ut5sils t are practically necess>y to complete ! dyeh\se = ! r5ovator4 ,a c\ple ( h\rs 9 ! morn+ devot$ to fea!r dye+1 & a good practical man c turn out fifty doll>s wor? at a co/ ( only 8 two h\rs labor1 & p]haps fifty c5ts wor? ( color4 ,fea!rs c be dri$ 9 an ord9>y hot room or1 if w>m wea!r1 out 9 ! op5 air4 ,! dry room :]e l>ge quantities ( fea!rs are dri$ %\ld nev] be too w>m1 z ! fea!rs are apt to dry up quick] ?an ! boys c beat ! />* out ( !m2 &1 z a consequ5ce1 ! flues or fibres are n exp&$ z !y %\ld be1 & ! fea!rs are mu* h>d] to curl4 ,! bo>d or table us$ to beat ! fea!rs on mu/ be p]fectly smoo?1 z !re is o!rwise dang] ( te>+ out ! flues4 ,! dry+ ( fea!rs is q an important op]ation1 & if n und]/ood1 c result 9 ru9+ a great _m by dry+ !m improp]ly1 all[+ ! />* to dry up on ! flues )\t beat+ x out1 & by break+ ! quills4 ,! dry room is only us$ :5 ! wea!r is too inclem5t to dry 9 ! op5 air1 or :5 y h n got outside accommodations4 ,! y>d or ro( is f> pref]able to ! dry room1 & especially s = :ite & black fea!rs4 ,aft] hav+ be5 wa%$ & ! />* ?or\ghly remov$1 x w improve !m greatly to expose !m to ! sun = an h\r or two4 ,colors1 especially delicate %ades1 %\ld n be all[$ to hang 9 ! sun only dur+ ! actual "t requir$ = dry+ a black made by our process2 x greatly improves ^u exposure to ! sunlight1 giv+ x an advantage ov] all o!rs4 ,ba?s ( logwood or old g>net ba?s t y are desir\s ( sav+ = future use1 x w be well to remove !m f ! copp] or t9 bas9s or pans to wood5 buckets or crock]y j>s1 & cov] !m up = ! purpose ( exclud+ all =eign matt]4 ,,miscellane\s ,,in=mation4 ,9 ! re-dy+ ( old fea!rs ! fir/ ?+ necess>y is to ent] !m 9 book by :atev] sy/em y may ?9k be/2 aft] :i* !y are assort$ z to color1 ! blacks1 br[ns1 gre5s1 blues1 etc4 ,put 9 sep>ate lots & !n /r+ !m & m>k y\r tickets4 ,y w (t5 f9d :5 y h select$ y\r colors a numb] ( diff]5t %ades to be dy$ "o color2 z1 = example1 :5 y come to /r+ y\r br[ns1 y w f9d a blue1 a gre51 a g>net1 a drab1 & p]haps a doz5 diff]5t %ades ( colors2 /r+ !m all on at once & ent] toge!r1 & dye a good m$ium %ade ( seal br[n & dry2 aft] :i* y proce$ to take !m (f ! /r+1 & place !m ) _! respective tickets4 ,y w n[ f9d1 p]haps1 "o a %ade too d>k = y\r sample1 ano!r p]haps a %ade too light4 ,! =m] y w\ld pass ?r\gh a weak solution ( sulphuric acid 9 />* ba?1 & ! latt] ?r\gh a weak solution ( bi*romate ( pota%4 ,ano!r "o y may f9d a little too r$ = sample1 or too yell[4 ,^!1 9 turn1 y c br+ to mat* y\r sample z p] recipe = br[n4 ,9 beg9n+ ! days "w1 x is well to d all y\r blea*+ & clean+ fir/1 :ile y\r h& bas9s & dyeh\se are 9 a clean condition2 aft] :i* ! blacks1 z !y require logwood good & pure1 & ! same logwood us$ = !m c be us$ = all o!r colors :]e logwood ent]s into _! composition4 ,consequ5tly "o ba? ( logwood boil$ 9 ! morn+ w d all ! "w = ! day4 ,9 ,*icago ,i rememb]1 :ile giv+ in/ruction to a g5tleman1 :o _h come d[n f ,/4 ,paul1 ,m9n41 = ! purpose ( le>n+ ! art1 t 9 "o aft]noon ,i taught him h[ to make e color & %ade ( color kn[n1 & my logwood ba? t 0 us$ dur+ ! :ole day's "w 0 boil$ 9 a small sauce-pan t held ab\t two qu>ts4 ,x _h be5 us$ 9 mak+ black1 br[ns1 gre5s & navy blues ( all %ades1 & 0 /ill 9 good en\gh condition to make any color1 except+ p]haps black4 ,keep y\r ba? ( logwood cov]$ at all times :5 n 9 actual use1 &1 inde$1 !n1 if conv5i5t1 to prev5t any =eign sub/ance f ent]+ x4 ,x is ! cu/om ( a great _m o/ri* fea!r dy]s to keep a quantity ( />* 9 ! dyeh\se = ! purpose ( dipp+ _! fea!rs into x & p>tially beat+ !m out prior to remov+ !m f ! ba? = ! purpose ( dry+ ! ends up to see if !y mat* sample4 ,?is is a v bad practice1 = ! loose />* fly+ ?r\gh ! dyeh\se w settle on ! uncov]$ colors & cause n a little annoyance & tr\ble4 ,keep ! />* out ( ! dyeh\se2 keep x 9 ! dry+-room :]e x belongs4 ,9 dry+ y\r fea!rs out ( ! ba?s 9 />* x is well to h two boxes1--"o to be us$ = colors t conta9 acid2 z1 = example1 light blues1 lemon1 etc41--! o!r = ^? colors t conta9 none2 su* z drabs1 p9ks1 etc4 ,9 dissolv+ colors use ord9>y bottles1 & be sure to always use boil+ wat] = ! purpose ( dilut+4 ,let ! proportions be ab\t "o teaspoonful ( color to "o p9t ( boil+ wat]4 ,%ake g5tly to ?or\ghly dilute anil9e1 & cork or cov] bottles to keep out dirt4 ,colors t are us$ 9 mak+ v delicate %ades1 su* z p9ks or light blues1 x is well to tie ar\nd ! top ( ! bottle 9 place ( a cork a small piece ( musl94 ,x w act z a /ra9]1 & prev5t p>ticles ( color t may n h be5 ?or\ghly dissolv$ f pass+ into ! ba? & spott+ y\r goods4 ,d n be too c>eful ( ! h&s & afraid ( gett+ !m cov]$ ) dye/uffs2 use !m 9 ! ba? in/ead ( /icks at all times1 except+ :]e ! liquid is too hot to p]mit x4 ,! be/ me?od ( clean+ ! h&s1 no matt] h[ dirty1 is to pass !m ?r\gh a solution ( soda1 ab\t "o-qu>t] ounce 9 a small quantity ( hot wat]2 r9se (f 9 cold wat]1 & take ab\t a teaspoonful ( *loride ( lime1 moi/5 ) wat] & rub ! h&s g5tly ) x until all color has entirely disappe>$2 !n wa% ) soap & hot wat]4 ,,wa%+ ,,raw ,,/ock4 ,fir/ /r+ y\r fea!rs1 be+ c>eful to place ! /r+ on ! end ( quill s z n to get any ( ! flues "u ! loop2 !n slice d[n accord+ to quantity ( fea!rs to be wa%$1 f "o to m p\nds ( soap 9 boil+ wat]1 & boil d[n to a liquor2 aft] :i* fill a clean tub half full ( luke w>m wat]1 & p\r soap into x2 !n ent] y\r fea!rs & give !m a slight rubb+4 ,!n pu% !m well "u ! surface ( ! wat]1 cov] !m up & all[ !m to rema9 ov] night4 ,9 ! morn+ run (f dirty wat] & squeeze out y\r fea!rs2 ent] y\r fea!rs 9 a tub ( clean luke w>m wat] & use an ord9>y wa% bo>d & a s(t scrubb+ bru%4 ,rub b> soap on fea!rs1 & bru% g5tly1 be+ v c>eful n to te> out ! flues4 ,soap & bru% "o /r+ at a "t1 manipulate !m mu* aft] ! mann] ( a woman h&l+ a l>ge wa%4 ,be c>eful to give m9ute att5tion to ! bottom portion ( ! fea!rs1 z ! flues are always m closely /uck toge!r ) ! natural grease ( ! bird1 & x (t5 requires an am\nt ( h>d labor to remove4 ,repeat ! wa%+ op]ation & r9se (f 9 ab\t ?ree luke w>m wat]s1 />* & dry4 ,9 />*+ rub ! fea!rs ar\nd well betwe5 ! h&s = ! purpose ( gett+ all ! flues ?or\ghly exp&$1 squeeze out ( ba? & hang on l9es to dry4 ,put no m out at once ?an ! dy]s c com=tably h&le1 z x is well to h !m beat out on bo>d at regul> int]vals ( a m9ute or s2 !reby exp&+ ! flues to _! utmo/4 ,! process ( select+ ! diff]5t grades or qualities foll[1 & x is necess>y = ! p]son p]=m+ ?is "w to be famili> ) ! application ( dye/uffs to fea!rs1 to insure ! dy] less tr\ble2 z ! diff]5t qualities all put 9 ! ba? toge!r1 & go+ ?r\gh exactly ! same process w come out diff]5t %ades ( color1 w cause ! dy] a great deal ( tr\ble & labor gett+ !m all an ev5 color4 ,:5 a bat* ( fea!rs are int5d$ = :ite x w n be necess>y to dry !m fir/2 simply wa% & r9se1 & prep>e y\r :ite ba? z p] recipe1 & pass !m ?r\gh x4 ,x is sc>cely necess>y to rem>k "h t natural black & gray fea!rs mu/ n be wa%$ at ! same "t ) :ites1 z ! latt] w\ld n be improv$4 ,/r+s %\ld n conta9 m ?an fifty plumes1 =1 if !y are made mu* long]1 x w\ld be awkw>d to h&le !m4 ,tips1 h[ev]1 are (t5 /rung ?ree or f\r 9 a bun*1 accord+ to size1 & an ord9>y /r+ may conta9 two or ?ree hundr$4 ,9 wa%+ natural black tips x is advisable to use a bru% on !m dur+ ! fir/ r9s+ to remove all p>ticles ( soap !refrom4 ,,%ad+4 ,%ad+ f d>k to light colors is ! result ( subm]g+ "o portion ( ! fea!r 9 ! ba? & )hold+ ! balance4 ,great c>e & n a little skill is ne$$ to produce a satisfactory result4 ,!re are v>i\s ways ( h&l+ ! goods1 cov]+ up ! portions to rema9 ! light %ade or hold+ !m out ) ! h&s4 ,spott$ or speckl$ fea!rs are produc$ by fir/ dye+ ! light %ade t y desire to be spott$1 & !n wrapp+ ar\nd a r\nd /ick ) cord1 accord+ to ! size y desire to h ! spots1 y w regulate ! weight ( cord us$4 ,aft] hav+ b\nd ! cord tightly ar\nd ! fea!r & /ick1 :i* mu/ !n be ti$ firmly to keep f slipp+1 pass ?r\gh boil+ wat] = a few seconds = ! purpose ( exp&+ ! wood & contract+ ! cord1 !reby mak+ ! cord mu* tight]4 ,aft] y h made !m :atev] d>k color y desire1 take out1 />* & pass ?r\gh dry />*2 !n remove cord & dry y\r fea!rs1 :5 y w f9d t ! portion cov]$ by ! cord w be ! light %ade1 & ! fea!rs h ! appe>ance ( be+ dott$ all ov]4 ,natural blacks or grays c be speckl$ z foll[s3 ,g ?r\gh ! same prep>ations ( b9d+ ar\nd /ick ) cord & degrad+ or blea*+ !m :ite4 ,! result w be t ! portion cov]$ ) cord w be same z be=e ent]+ ! ba?1 a black or d>k br[n1 & ! body ( ! fea!rs w be :ite4 ,%\ld y desire ! fea!rs dy$ any light color to contra/ ) ! d>k spots2 be=e remov+ ! cord1 mix y\r ba? & dye z p] recipe1 dry z be=e direct$1 & ! result is v beautiful4 ,"s v nice effects are produc$ 9 %ad+ by tak+ natural grays or bi\cs1 t is1 fea!rs t are "o portion :ite & ! balance 9 spots1 black4 ,,p>+1 ,,/eam+ ,,& ,,curl+4 ,fea!rs t h j come out ( ! dyeh\se = ! fir/ "t require p>+1 :i* consi/s 9 remov+ ! quill f ! inn] portion ( ! fea!r1 !reby mak+ ! fea!rs m ela/ic4 ,! fea!rs mu/ fir/ be ?or\ghly dri$2 !y are !n tak51 "o at a "t1 held betwe5 ! ?umb & two =e f+]s ( ! left h&1 :ile1 ) a knife held 9 ! "r1 ! inn] quill is rapidly remov$ close to ! flues or fibres4 ,?is bran* ( ! bus9ess is 9 itself a trade1 & requires a great am\nt ( skill & caution to prev5t cutt+ ?r\gh ! quill4 ,! fea!r c be made /ill m limb] by scrap+ ! quill ) a piece ( glass4 ,( c\rse1 ?is process ( p>+ ! quill is only us$ 9 new "w4 ,9 re-dy+ old fea!rs x is nev] ne$$2 9 old "w x is only necess>y to dry up ?or\ghly1 /eam & curl4 ,a great _m h no k ( :at relation /eam+ has to ! f9i%+ ( fea!rs4 ,x has ! effect ( mak+ all ! flues lie p]fectly /raight beside ea* o!r1 & also damp5s ! fea!rs j en\gh to assi/ ! curl] 9 h] "w4 ,x is necess>y to h a /eam] made z foll[s3 get a kettle t w hold ab\t "o gallon or m ( wat]1 made out ( pla9 t91 ) a sp\t comm5c+ at ! base ab\t two in*es 9 wid? & tap]+ up to a half in* 9 wid? at top4 ,! sp\t %\ld be ab\t eighte5 in*es 9 l5g?2 ! total co/ %\ld n be m ?an "o doll>4 ,nev] h x m ?an half full ( wat]1 & y c boil x on ei!r an ord9>y /ove or common gas or oil /ove4 ,y may ask :y /eam f ! boil]1 or out ( an ord9>y tea-kettle w\ld n answ]8 ,x is too wet4 ,in/ead ( hav+ ! desir$ effect x wets ! flues1 :ile ! o!r damp5s x j en\gh4 ,! /eam emitt$ f ! /eam kettle is dri] ?an any o!r4 ,:5 ! /eam is pass+ ?r\gh ! tube take hold ( ! fea!rs by ei!r end & pass backw>d & =w>d = a few seconds ab\t two in*es above ! top ( pipe1 & lay d[n p]fectly flat1 "o on top ( ! o!r4 ,curl+ is a trade t c only be ?or\ghly ma/]$ by practice2 ! pr9ciples c be taught1 b only practice w make p]fect4 ,x does n1 h[ev]1 require a great :ile4 ,i h kn[n p]sons t )9 ?ree mon?s _h become fir/-class curl]s1 practic+ a %ort "t ea* day4 ,! fea!r is held betwe5 ! fir/ & second f+] & ?umb ( ! left h& & a few flues tak5 up at a "t ) ! knife held 9 ! "r h&1 & g5tly drawn along ! r\nd dull edge ( ! knife1 & all[$ to drop 9 a half circle2 beg9 at ! bottom ( ! "r h& side ( ! fea!r1 "w up to ! top & ar\nd & d[n ! o!r side2 & 9 lay+ up take up ab\t ?ree flues at a "t1 skipp+ ab\t six4 ,fem99e f+]s are g5]ally bett] adapt$ to ?is "w ?an o!rs1 &1 9 fact1 x is m ( a woman's "w ?an a man's4 ,tips are g5]ally b5t & bran*$4 ,y c give ! fea!rs a nice droop by tak+ ! quill betwe5 ! ?umb & =e-f+]1 & ) ! ?umb press+ ! quill ?r\gh betwe5 ! fir/ & second f+]4 ,beg9 ab\t ! middle ( ! fea!r1 &1 %ift+ ab\t a qu>t] in* at a "t1 pass swiftly up t[>ds ! top1 :5 ! fea!rs w h a v beautiful droop4 ,pla9 wire /ems c be us$4 ,take ?9 wire1 cut ab\t five in*es 9 l5g?1 & twi/ "o end ( x on /em or quill ( y\r fea!rs s z to hold2 !n take tissue pap]1 cut 9 /rips ab\t a half in* wide1 & 9 color correspond+ ) ! %ade ( fea!rs2 wrap x ar\nd wire to entirely cov] x up1 & !n bran* tips1 two or ?ree 9 a bun*1 z suits y\r fancy4 ,,note ,,( ,,! ,,publi%]4 ,! old maxim1 t see+ is believ+1 applies p]haps n[h]e m ?an 9 dye+4 ,all ^? :o h avail$ !mselves ( ! opportunity to see ! me?od ( dye+ o/ri* fea!rs practically execut$ be=e _! eyes by ! au?or1 z describ$ 9 ! =ego+ pages1 are satisfi$ ( & will+ly te/ify to its sup]iority ov] any ( ! me?ods h]et(ore kn[n1 practic$ & (t5 acquir$ at ! co/ ( mu* money1 "t & tr\ble1 & :i*1 9 _m cases1 :5 put to ! practical te/1 fail$ to give ! desir$ results4 ,yet !re are probably _m m disbeliev]s ?an believ]s 9 any new me?od1 h[ev] freely & tru?fully c]tifi$ to1 :o mi/ru/ ! quick "w ( our new processes ( o/ri* fea!r dye+1 & :o w\ld r pref] to op]ate aft] a some:at sl[ b 79 _! op9ion7 !re=e sur]1 old] me?od4 ,!y %all n be disappo9t$ by p]us+ our book & 9 look+ up some?+ :i* !y w\ld want to try 9 practice1 & = !m especially we supplem5t our book ) ! foll[+ ,app5dix1 conta9+ a numb] ( practically te/$ recipes = dye+ o/ri* fea!rs4 ,,app5dix4 ,,g5]al ,,rem>ks4 ,! cultivat$ ta/e ( ! pres5t age1 requir+ a l>ge v>iety ( natural & artificially produc$ or embelli%$ mat]ial = adornm5t1 employs almo/ any k9d ( bird's fea!rs1 ei!r 9 _! natural color+ or dy$4 ,none ( !m1 h[ev]1 are us$ 9 ! condition z !y are pluck$ f ! body ( ! live or dead bird1 b all mu/ und]go a clean+ process1 :i* n only s]ves to improve _! appe>ance1 b is an exce$+ly ess5tial requisite = ! pres]vation ( ! mat]ial f decay & ! attacks ( mo? & o!r insects1 & is1 above all1 ! fir/ condition & indisp5sable prep>atory op]ation = dye+ fea!rs1 :e!r ! co/ly fea!r ( ! o/ri* or ! common fea!r ( our dome/ic *ick5 or pigeon4 ,! clean+ or wa%+ process is ! same = all k9ds ( fea!rs2 ! o/ri* fea!r1 h[ev]1 requires dry+ aft] e treatm5t 9 a ba?1 & a special op]ation = ! purpose ( op5+ ! f9e flues1 :i* gives ! plumage ( ! o/ri* its *>act]i/ic & di/+ui%+ beauty & ri*1 d[ny appe>ance ( luxuri\s s(tness4 ,! fea!rs ( ! o/ri*1 :i* are us$ = dress-fea!rs1 are tak5 f ! w+s & tail ( ! bird1 ^: spurr$ w+s1 by _! peculi> con/ruction r5d] x entirely unfit = flight4 ,! w+s seem r only fit to s]ve = ! purpose ( hold+ ! body ( ! bird 9 equilibrium :ile runn+1 & ( prev5t+ x f s9k+ to any dep? into ! loose s& ( ! des]ts1 :i* are ! home ( ! o/ri*4 ,! natural colors ( ! o/ri* fea!rs are :ite1 black & gray1 or r a d>k drab4 ,!y are1 !re=e1 sort$ accord+ to _! natural color1 to be blea*$ :ite1 or dy$ 9 light colors1 or to be us$ = d>k %ades4 ,practical m5 9 ! g5]al dye+ bus9ess1 & 9 g>m5t dye+ or re-dye+1 hold t x is unnecess>y to blea*1 respectively /rip1 ! mat]ial = dye+ d>k colors1 & g>m5t dy]s /rip _! mat]ial only to a c]ta9 ext5t1 s z to leave ^u x a bottom ( color :i* !y c advantage\sly use = _! new dye4 ,?is me?od appe>s correct1 if z practical z all t is designat$1 :i* results 9 a sav+ ( exp5se or labor2 b x is evid5t t a cle> color ( ! highe/ possible beauty c nev] be obta9$ ^u a bottom ( a diff]5t hue2 ! bottom color w always1 m or less1 %[ & impair ! purity ( ! topp+ color2 b comp\nd or mix$ colors c be ?us produc$ 9 an advantage\s mann] & to good effect1 if ! color ( ! bottom ent]s into _! composition4 ,! same is unque/ionably ! case ) o/ri* fea!rs1 & ! dy] is (t5 compell$ & mu/ be prep>$ to blea* ! gray or black & :ite fea!rs 9 ord] to dye !m any light %ade4 ,! blea*+ ( naturally purely black fea!rs is probably b seldom requir$1 z ^! are ord9>ily left z nature has made !m1 b m]ely clean$ to height5 _! beauty & gloss4 ,ow+ to ! delicate nature ( ! mat]ial1 ! dye+ ( o/ri* fea!rs be>s mu* simil>ity to t ( silk2 bo? be+ high 9 price1 c>elessness & neglig5ce 9 _! treatm5t is apt to entail heavy losses4 ,! utmo/ cleanl9ess ( all ut5sils is an absolute requirem5t2 dye/uffs1 drugs & *emicals mu/ nev] be add$ to ba?s 9 sub/ance1 b always 9 solution1 & nev] :ile ! mat]ial is 9 ! ba?2 b ! mat]ial mu/ be tak5 up :ile ! dye/uff or salt1 etc41 solution is be+ add$ to ! ba?1 & only re-ent]$ aft] /irr+ well4 ,solutions1 z well z decoctions1 mu/ always be filt]$1 respectively /ra9$1 be=e add+ !m to ! dye ba?1 ev5 if !y h be5 prep>$ be=eh&1 because any undissolv$ or solid p>ticle ( sub/ance deposit$ ^u ! fea!rs w\ld necess>ily produce a spot or m>k ( a d>k] or light] %ade1 z ! case may be1 accord+ to ! "* ( ! undissolv$ sub/ance4 ,al?\gh alkalies & heat are appli$ & necess>y = wa%+ or sc\r+1 t is1 clean+ & ungreas+ ! fea!rs1 /rong alkal9e & excessive heat op]at+ toge!r are z fatal = fea!rs z !y are = any o!r animal fibre1--wool or silk1--& /rong heat appli$ to dry fea!rs is apt to irretrievably ru9 !m4 ,! soap ) :i* fea!rs are to be treat$1 mu/1 !re=e1 be z neutral z possible1 & if recipes speak ( boil+ ! fea!rs1 x mu/ be und]/ood 9 ! s5se z 9 wool-dye+1 t is1 to apply a heat ne> ! boil+ po9t1 :5 ! ba?s beg9 to ?r[ up bubbles1 b n actually boil4 ,t ! wat] us$ = any purpose 9 o/ri* fea!r dye+1 = wa%+1 blea*+1 dye+ or r9s+1 mu/ be p]fectly clean1 ne$s h>dly to be m5tion$4 ,,ut5sils4 ,! ut5sils requir$ = fea!r dye+ are ( a v simple "*1 few & inexp5sive4 ,= small e/abli%m5ts an ord9>y /ove1 a common wa%-boil]1 to h con/antly hot wat] on h&1 an ord9>y wa% tub1 a :ite *9a wa%-bas9 = dye+1 a clean bo>d = />*+ & a few bottles1 toge!r ) a small t9 pan or kettle & funnel1 = mak+ solutions & decoctions & filt]+ !m1 is all t is necess>y besides ! "w table4 ,m rec5tly1 flat1 oval upp] pans1 t9n$ = special purposes1 h be5 introduc$ z dye-vessels1 :i* are neatly provid$ ) a moveable p]=at$ false-bottom1 & are heat$ ei!r ^u a direct fire1 or a gas jet1 or by direct /eam4 ,9 l>ge e/abli%m5ts copp] pans are g5]ally us$1 = ! bett] grades ( o/ri* fea!rs especially1 & = ord9>y goods wood5 tubs1 bo? heat$ by /eam4 ,:]e wood5 tubs are us$1 sev]al ( !m are set ap>t = ! color mo/ 9 dem&1 su* z black1 br[n1 gray1 mode1 etc4 ,,prep>ation ,,( ,,! ,,fea!rs4 ,! bundles receiv$ f ! deal] be+ op5$1 ! fea!rs are sort$ accord+ to color & size1 & ^? = :ite & light colors1 to be blea*$1 are laid f ^? ( d>k colors1 :i* are ord9>ily n blea*$1 t is1 ! black or gray ones4 ,:5 go+ to "w ! fea!rs are put on /r+s1 t is1 !y are firmly ti$ s+ly1 ab\t an in* ap>t f "o ano!r1 & ab\t an in* above ! end ( ! quill1 #bj or #be ) "o /r+1 seldom m1 z !y w\ld make ! bundle too ?ick & unh&y4 ,! fea!rs are !n ready = ! /eep1 :i* op]ation ought always & = any me?od be ! fir/ /ep ( treatm5t be=e proce$+ to wa%+1 sc\r+ & blea*+ prop]4 ,= ?is purpose a /rong solution ( soap is made 9 boil+ wat]2 :5 cool$ d[n to ab\t #aej ,f41 x is well /irr$1 ! fea!rs ent]$ & left 9 ! ba? ov] night4 ,! temp]ature may be kept up ov] night4 ,x is necess>y1 h[ev]1 to lay ! fea!rs d[n 9 ! /eep s t ! liquid c rea* e "p ( !m1 & to keep !m well imm]s$ 9 ! /eep1 = :i* purpose x is advisable to weigh !m d[n by clean /icks ( wood or "s o!r means4 ,in/ead ( soap1 soda may be us$ = ! /eep2 tak+ ab\t "o & "o-half ounces ( soda cry/als to "o gallon ( wat]4 ,by ! /eep ! impurities1 dirt & grease1 cov]+ ! fea!r are loos5$1 & !reby ! foll[+ clean+ op]ations mat]ially facilitat$4 ,,clean+ ,,& ,,blea*+ ,,( ,,fea!rs4 ,! o/ri* fea!rs1 l all mat]ial tak5 f ! cov]+ ( ! animal body1 wool1 hair1 etc41 :i* are embelli%$ by dye+ = ! use ( man or woman 9 dress1 conta9 by nature a c]ta9 am\nt ( fat1 & 9 _! raw condition are m or less cov]$ ) du/1 dirt & a greasy exudation1 :i* mu/ be remov$ = dye+2 t is1 !y are sc\r$ or wa%$ & !n blea*$ or :it5$1 because ! fea!rs1 l all o!r s-call$ :ite animal matt]1 h always a fa9t yell[i% t9t1 sometimes yell[i% spots :i* _c be remov$ )\t injury to ! mat]ial1 b oblit]at$ by blea*+1 :i*1 9 ! case ( :ite fea!rs1 is call$ blea*+ or :it5+4 ,! blea*+ ( gray & black fea!rs & ! /ripp+ or decolor+ ( dy$ fea!rs are diff]5t op]ations4 ,= sc\r+ or wa%+1 novel me?ods are recomm5d$1 :i*1 h[ev]1 diff] f "o ano!r v little1 & are1 on ! :ole1 repres5t$ by ! foll[+3 ,prep>e a good h&w>m ba? 7#ajj-abj ,f471 9 :i* dissolve two ounces ,m>seilles soap 9 p] gallon ( wat] & beat up to a good la!r4 ,ent] fea!rs & rub !m well1 /r+ = /r+1 by h&4 ,!y may ev5 be tak5 ^u a wa%-bo>d & rubb$ ) a bru%1 :i* does n hurt !m1 not)/&+ _! delicate /ructure1 because ! soap /eep has giv5 !m great ela/icity & resi/ance to ! manipulation4 ,cont9ue ! op]ations until ! tank is exhau/$ & dirty2 !n give ano!r fre% ba? ( ! same composition & temp]ature2 treat ! fea!rs z 9 ! fir/ ba? & r9se !m p]fectly clean f e p>ticle ( soap 9 two or ?ree luke-w>m 7#ajj7 wat]s2 =1 e trace ( soap rema9+ ^u ! fea!rs w h9d] ! dye f runn+ up & cause unev5 colors1 or1 ^u :ite fea!rs1 yell[ /a9s4 ,!n prep>e a cold ba? ) solution ( bioxolate ( pota% 7"o-eigh? to "o-six? ounce ( salt to "o gallon71 ent] fea!rs1 pass !m 9 ! ba? = #ae-bj m9utes1 take up & r9se !m 9 cold wat] ?ree to f\r times to remove ! salt4 ,= fea!rs :i* h to rema9 :ite1 ! latt] ba? is compos$ ( "o & "o-qu>t] ounces bioxolate ( pota% & "o & "o-eigh? ounces oxalic acid to "o gallon ( wat]1 & ! fea!rs laid d[n 9 x until p]fectly :ite2 :5 !y are tak5 out & r9s$ clean f acid 9 luke-w>m wat]4 ,! fea!rs be+ r9s$ clean f ! oxolate ( pota% ba?1 if de/9$ = :ite1 are !n :it5$1 or r blu$1 = ! purpose ( cov]+ ! yell[i% t9t above m5tion$4 ,to ?is purpose a cold ba? is prep>$ ) only s mu* me?yl violet or me?yl5e blue1 z to give ! wat] a v fa9t t9t4 ,to asc]ta9 :e!r ?is is ! case1 a :ite *9a plate is held ab\t a foot bel[ ! surface ( ! ba?1 :5 its appe>ance w %[ ! %ade ( blue t w be produc$ by ! ba?4 ,! fea!rs are !n ent]$ & g5tly agitat$ 9 ! ba? until !y h ! desir$ t9t4 ,,dry+ ,,or ,,/>*+4 ,! fea!rs com+ f ! bioxolate ( pota% ba?1 aft] r9s+1 or f ! blue ba?s1 are squeez$ out by pull+ !m ?r\gh ! h&1 & press+ !m betwe5 ! laps ( a dry clean piece ( :ite musl91 :]eupon !y are imm$iately pass$ ?r\gh a ba? ( raw />*1 t is1 unboil$ />*1 consi/+ ( ab\t "o-half p\nd ( />* to a gallon ( wat]4 ,aft] pass+ !m ?r\gh ! h& ! fea!rs are !n aga9 press$ betwe5 ! clo?2 !n ! waves are lightly drawn by h& ov] ! /ems1 & ! fea!rs ei!r beat5 betwe5 ! h&s or ^u a clean bo>d ov] a /ove until dry1 or !y are agitat$ by h& or by a suitable me*anical contrivance be=e an op5 fire or gas-jet1 or hung 9 a w>m room & frequ5tly %ak5 until dry1 t is1 until all />* has dropp$ out2 & f9ally ! rema9+ />* is beat5 out betwe5 ! h&s or ^u ! bo>d by means ( a s(t bru%4 ,by ?is treatm5t ! fea!rs are n only dri$1 b ! flues op5$ besides4 ,x ne$s n to be specially m5tion$1 t ! fea!rs are dri$1 or f9i%$1 z x 71 9 ! same mann] aft] dye+4 ,9 case ! flues are n suffici5tly op5$1 al?\gh all ! />* has be5 beat5 out1 dip ! fea!rs into clean b5z9e & sw+ or agitate !m until dry1 :i* takes place 9 a few m9utes1 :ile ! flues are op5$ 9 ! mo/ p]fect mann]4 ,= :ite fea!rs ! b5z9e may be blu$1 b 9 ?is case1 !y mu/ be dri$ betwe5 musl94 ,,blea*+ ,,or ,,decolor+ ,,naturally ,,gray ,,fea!rs4 ,! fea!r dy] is (t5 requir$ to dye light colors ^u naturally gray or ev5 black fea!rs4 ,z above rem>k$1 ! natural color w\ld %[ ev5 "u d>k colors dy$ ^u !m to a great] or less ext5t1 unless !y are fir/ decoloriz$1 t is1 _! natural color de/roy$ or black5$4 ,mu* m necess>y is1 !re=e1 ?is op]ation = light colors to be dy$ ^u naturally color$ o/ri* fea!rs4 ,! only kn[n *emical ag5t affect+ su* a blea* to ne>ly :ite is p]oxyd ( hydrog5 or oxyg5at$ wat]4 ,= blea*+ o/ri* fea!rs a ba? is prep>$ ( p]oxyd ( hydrog5 to :i* s mu* liquid ammonia is add$ z to give ! ba? a %>p pung5t odor4 ,! fea!rs1 :i* mu/ be previ\sly clean$ z above m5tion$1 & well r9s$1 are ent]$ & left imm]s$ 9 ! ba? until !y h assum$ a ne>ly :ite cream color1 :]eupon ! fea!rs are tak5 up & ?or\ghly r9s$ or laid d[n 9 runn+ wat] until e trace ( ammonia has disappe>$4 ,x mu/ be obs]v$1 h[ev]1 t only acid anil9e colors c be dy$ ^u su* decoloriz$ fea!rs & t 9 dye+ only a mod]ate heat mu/ be appli$4 ,dr4 ,p4 ,ebell1 ( ,l9d51 ne> ,hanov]1 "o ( ! fir/ & /ill l>ge/ manufactur]s ( p]oxyd ( hydrog51 writes on ! subject ( fea!r blea*+ z foll[s3 ,! assort$ & pick$ fea!rs are clean$ f dirt & fat ) soap & wat] by means ( s(t bru%es1 :i* op]ation is cont9u$ until ! fea!rs 7aft] dry+7 are readily wett$ by wat]2 :5 !y are laid d[n = "s "t 9 pure wat]4 ,! liquids are remov$ f ! fea!rs by a c5trifugal ma*9e or a wr+] 7! latt] is evid5tly meant = ord9>y fea!rs1 o!r ?an o/ri* fea!rs74 ,mix 9 a clean wood5 tub tw5ty litres p]oxyd ( hydrog5 7,ko5igswt] ,ebell7 ) f\r hundr$ & fifty grammes ammonia #bj ,b4 7#j4i sp4 gra47 & heat to #cd ,c41 by a lead5 /eam pipe at ! bottom ( ! tub4 ,ent] #e kilo4 clean$ fea!rs1 :i* "w by h& & turn e h\r4 ,9 tw5ty f\r h\rs ! blea* is complet$4 ,if pure :ite fea!rs are want$1 give a second ba?1 b = a %ort] p]iod4 ,! blea*$ fea!rs are c>efully remov$ f ! blea*+ ba? & laid d[n1 = an h\r & a half1 9 a cold ba? ( "o hundr$ litres wat] conta9+ "o hundr$ grammes sulphuric acid #ff ,b41 & !n completely lixiviat$ 9 pure1 s(t wat]4 ,:ile moi/ 7aft] squeez+7 !y are !n pass$ ?r\gh a milk ( unboil$ />* :i* is lightly blu$ ) anil9e blue or violet1 & sl[ly dri$1 9 ! air or 9 a w>m room1 "u repeat$ %ak+ to prev5t ! flues f /ick+ toge!r4 ,aft] remov+ ! />* by beat+1 ! fea!rs are ready = curl+1 etc4 ,,p]oxyd ,,( ,,hydrog54 ,?is mo/ valuable blea*+ ag5t is a contraction ( hydrog5 & oxyg51 ( ! =mula ,,ho#b1 sp4 grv4 #a4de 7*emically giv571 or #id4ab p] c5t4 oxyg5 ) #e4hh p] c5t4 hydrog54 ,x consi/s 9 a limpid1 syrup\s liquid1 ( *>act]i/ic color1 & :5 heat$ to #ae ,c41 is decompos$ into wat] & oxyg51 ^u :i* prop]ty its great blea*+ p[] is bas$4 ,exp]im5ts to r$uce x to a solid =m by refrig]ation & pressure h ?us f> be5 unsuccessful4 ,! comm]cial article is some:at modifi$ by ! addition ( wat] to prev5t its ready decomposition "u ! influ5ce ( a w>m temp]ature4 ,= ! same reason x is advisable to always keep x 9 a cool place4 ,,light ,,blue4 ,i4 ,to dye ?is delicate color well1 special c>e mu/ be tak5 9 clean+ ! fea!rs1 = :i* purpose only olive-oil soap ( ! be/ quality1 ) a little ammonia1 ought to be employ$4 ,:5 !y are p]fectly clean & no m grease ^u ! /ems1 r9se !m fir/ 9 "o or two lukew>m wat]s1 !n 9 cold wat] until ! la/ trace ( soap is remov$4 ,!n fill y\r bas9 or dye+ pan ?ree-qu>t]s full ( cold wat]2 put 91 = a doz5 fea!rs1 "o hundr$ & eighty grammes 7ab\t eight ounces7 ( raw />* 9 a suffici5t quantity ( good indigo extract to give ! />*-ba? ! desir$ %ade4 ,ent] ! fea!rs & "w !m g5tly until !y are completely dy$1 t is1 = ab\t fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes4 ,!n take !m out1 squeeze out ! />* by putt+ !m betwe5 ! f+]s & ?umb ( y\r h&1 & %ake !m be=e ! /ove1 or 9 a well-w>m$ *amb] until dry4 ,:ile dry+1 beat !m f "t to "t ^u ! bo>d1 or betwe5 ! h&s to remove ! adh]+ />*4 ,,ii4 ,prep>e a lukew>m ba? acidulat$ ) a few drops ( sulphuric acid1 s z to give a fa9t s\r ta/e1 to :i* add1 accord+ to %ade1 solution ( me?yl blue ,b4 7,acti5 ,gesells*aft fu] ,anil9 ,fabrikation1 ,b]l974 ,ent] ! fea!rs & leave !m 9 ! ba? until cold1 or until uni=mly dy$4 ,,note4--,"s dy]s use alkal9e blue1 :i* is n1 h[ev]1 recomm5dable1 because alkal9e ba?s1 z above rem>k$1 are injuri\s to ! fea!rs & mu/ be avoid$ z mu* z possible4 ,,iii4 ,prep>e ba? ( lukew>m wat]1 dissolve 9 x ab\t "o-half ounce t>t>ic acid p] "o qu>t1 & add "o ounce indigo c>m9e p] qu>t ( liquid2 /ir well1 ent] ! fea!rs & agitate or lay d[n 9 ! ba? until ! requir$ %ade is obta9$4 ,?is color %[s little fa/ness to light & air1 :i* c be improv$1 h[ev]1 by add+ to ! dye ba? "o-qu>t] ounce alum p] qu>t4 ,! %ade be+ obta9$1 take up ! fea!rs & pass1 )\t r9s+1 ?r\gh raw />* milk1 dry & beat z describ$4 ,light blues1 z is easy to und]/&1 c only be dy$ ^u :ite fea!rs = ! mo/ delicate %ades2 ne>ly :ite1 or develop$ gray fea!rs may be us$ = ! %ades approa*+ a light m$ium blue4 ,,navy ,,blue4 ,i4 ,= ?is color naturally gray or semi-blea*$ fea!rs may be us$4 ,x requires a mordant1 l wool4 ,= ?is purpose prep>e a ba? ( =ty p] c5t4 7( ! weight ( fea!rs7 tann9 at #afg ,f41 ent] ! fea!rs & agitate !m f "t to "t = ?ree h\rs4 ,!n take !m up1 dra9 & squeeze !m out1 ent] a cold ba? ( pyrolignite ( iron 7black liquor7 m>k+ #e ,b41 & "w !m = half h\r2 take !m out1 dra9 & squeeze1 & !n expose !m1 well spread out ^u ! /r+s1 = "o h\r to ! action ( ! air4 ,!n r9se & dye ^u a fre% w>m ba? ) a mixture ( anil9e blue & a little me?yl violet1 us+ ab\t tw5ty p] c5t4 ( ! weight ( fea!rs4 ,add ! dye/uff 9 ! beg9n+ only 9 small doses & sl[ly 9 ord] to prev5t ! production ( a bronzy1 undesirable lu/re ^u ! /em1 z is (t5 ! case 9 dy+ ) anil9e dye/uffs if !y are add$ to ! ba? 9 too l>ge doses4 ,,ii4 ,prep>e a hot ba?1 to :i* add z mu* indigo c>m9e z to br+ ! color ( ! ba? pretty ne> ! %ade to be produc$4 ,ent] ! fea!rs & agitate !m 9 ! ba? = "o h\r4 ,!n take up ! fea!rs1 add alum & a solution ( clo?-blue ,s4 to ! ba?1 re-ent] ! fea!rs & "w !m :ile rais+ ! temp]ature to boil+ po9t1 :5 ! /eam or gas is turn$ (f1 or ! pan remov$ f ! fire1 & ! fea!rs all[$ to lie = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes long] 9 ! ba?4 ,!y are !n tak5 out1 r9s$1 />*$ & dri$ & beat54 ,,iii4 ,h ! fea!rs prop]ly clean$ & well r9s$ f ! soap1 respectively soda4 ,gray fea!rs may be us$ unblea*$1 b a pur] color is obta9$ ^u !m :5 blea*$4 ,prep>e a hot ba?1 to :i* s mu* sulphuric acid is add$1 t x has a feeble s\r ta/e2 add ! solution ( two p] c5t4 7( ! weight ( fea!rs71 navy blue1 "o p] c5t4 fa/ blue or black1 & "o-eigh? p] c5t4 acid fu*s9e4 ,/ir well1 ent] ! fea!rs1 manipulate :ile rais+ ! temp]ature to boil+ po9t1 b n to actual boil+1 cont9ue at ?is temp]ature = "o half h\r2 !n /op (f ! /eam1 lay ! fea!rs d[n 9 ! ba? until cool1 lift & dry z usual4 ,,g5d>me ,,blue4 ,?is color requires a pure bottom1 t is1 naturally :ite or blea*$4 ,aft] clean+1 respectively wa%+ 9 w>m soap1 :i* mu/ n ev5 be omitt$ ) blea*$ fea!rs1 & ?or\gh r9s+1 prep>e a ba? & dye z = dye+ light blue ) indigo c>m9e4 ,!n add "s anil9e gre5 & navy blue to ! ba?1 re-ent] ! fea!rs :i* h be5 tak5 up be=e mak+ ! addition1 "w !m well :ile rais+ ! temp]ature to ! boil+ po9t2 cont9ue at ?is temp]ature = "o-half h\r long]1 lift1 r9se1 />* & dry z usual4 ,,plum ,,or ,,prune4 ,i4 ,= ?is color1 :i* has 9 itself a subdu$ tone ( br[n1 or has ! color ( gray o/ri* fea!rs1 su* naturally color$ fea!rs may be us$ unblea*$1 b well clean$ & r9s$ be=e dye+4 ,prep>e a luke-w>m ba?1 to :i* add ab\t "o-half ounce t>t>ic acid to p] qu>t ( wat] & solution ( me?yl violet #f ,b41 accord+ to %ade1 ) a little anil9e ponceau or fa/ br[n = ton+4 ,:ile work+ ! fea!rs1 raise ! temp]ature & cont9ue dye+ at ne>ly boil+ = "o-half h\r2 !n take out1 wa% & dry4 ,or1 ,,ii4 ,prep>e a boil+ hot ba? ) alum1 sulphuric acid & t>t>2 to :i* add acid fu*s9e2 ent] ! fea!rs1 & dye "o-half h\r to a blue r$1 :i* tone1 by ! addition ( decoction ( logwood1 cont9ue at ne>ly boil+ heat = "o-half h\r long]1 lift1 r9se lightly1 />*1 beat & dry4 ,,iii4 ,take a hot ba?1 ^u :i* violet has be5 dy$1 & refre% x ) "s solution ( me?yl violet1 #e ,b41 & a few drops ( sulphuric acid1 or prep>e a hot ba? ) ! same +r$i5ts1 & indigo c>m9e1 accord+ to %ade2 or1 in/ead ( indigo c>m9e1 indigo sub/itute1 fa/ blue ,b4 ,a41 & indigot9e2 pref]ably1 h[ev]1 use indigo c>m9e1 :i* develops m sl[ly1 & !re=e is sur] to give bett] results1 :ile ! anil9e dye/uffs run up m rapidly1 & are apt to dye unev5ly1 unless _! solutions are add$ gradually & ! fea!rs h&l$ quickly & c>efully4 ,,light ,,yell[4 ,i4 ,light yell[ is comp>atively v little 9 dem& = o/ri* fea!rs1 & sc>cely us$ = trimm+ hats ( *ildr5 & "y misses z a set-(f = o!r colors4 ,to produce x1 prep>e a pretty hot ba? ) a little sulphuric acid1 s z to give x a slightly acid ta/e1 add v little qu9ol9e yell[1 lay d[n ! fea!rs 9 ! ba? = "o-half h\r1 turn+ & agitat+ !m f "t to "t1 lift1 r9se & dry4 ,= ?is color1 z well z = light blues & roses1 ! fea!rs mu/ be p]fectly :ite4 7,= ?is dye ! qu9ol9e yell[ manufactur$ by ! ,acti5 ,gesells*aft fu] ,anil9 ,fabrikation1 ,b]l91 is specially suitable74 ,z ! purity ( all light %ades ( delicate colors greatly dep5ds ^u ! purity ( ! wat]1 x is advisable to br+ ! ba?1 be=e prep>+ x1 to boil ) "s bran & *loride ( t9 & skim x (f well4 ,,m$ium ,,yell[4 ,v>i\s %ades ( yell[ c also be produc$ ) ! old natural dye/uffs1 :i* are n1 h[ev]1 equal 9 brilliancy to ! =ego+ describ$ colors4 ,! fea!rs mu/ be blea*$ = ^! z well z = any cle> color1 :i* w\ld be mat]ially impair$ by an impure bottom2 /ill develop$ grays may be employ$4 ,aft] sc\r+ & ?or\ghly r9s+ ! fea!rs1 prep>e a cold ba? ( alum1 ab\t "o ounce to "o gallon ( cle> wat]1 or ( acetic acid2 lay ! fea!rs d[n until well op5$1 s t ! liquid c uni=mly act ^u all p>ts1 = "o h\r4 ,!n take !m out1 squeeze & c5trifugate !m1 & dye ! %ade ^u a fre% w>m ba? ) ! requir$ quantity ( flav9e1 decoction ( color or ( fu/ic2 lift1 r9se & />* z usual4 ,or1 dissolve a suffici5t quantity ( turm]ic 9 boil+ wat]1 filt] & ent] ! fea!rs :ile ! filtrate is /ill well hot4 ,agitate !m = five m9utes1 !n take !m up1 add to ! ba? a small quantity ( t>t>ic acid1 ?is to promote its dissolution2 !n re-ent] ! fea!rs1 "w !m aga9 = five m9utes1 lift1 r9se 9 cold wat]1 & dry4 ,if ^! colors are to h a light r$di% or w>m] tone1 add1 :5 ne>ly done1 "s anotto to ! dye ba?4 ,,d>k ,,yell[4 ,blea*$ grays answ] = ?is color z well z naturally :ite fea!rs4 ,sc\r & r9se !m well4 ,prep>e a ba?1 feebly acidulat$ ) sulphuric acid1 & add ! filt]$ solution ( two & "o-half p] c5t4 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 d>k yell[1 7manufactur$ by ! ,leipzig] ,anil9 ,fabrik1 =m]ly ,bay] ,kegel74 ,ent] ! fea!rs 9 ! cold & "w !m dilig5tly until ! color is well up1 !n raise ! temp]ature sl[ly to #agj ,f41 dye to %ade1 lift1 r9se 9 cle> cold wat]1 />* & dry4 ,,ii4 ,a new light yell[1 :i* is fa/ to light & air1 is obta9$ by products ( ,leonh>dt ,co41 at ,manheim1 viz3 r$>9e & acme yell[4 ,add to a hot ba? ( #agj-aij ,f41 a q small quantity ( r$>9e & /ill less acme yell[2 ent] ! fea!rs1 manipulate = "o-half h\r1 take out1 r9se & dry !m ) />*1 & beat well out4 ,?is color be+ extremely s5sitive1 ! purification ( ! wat] = ! ba? is z necess>y z ! mo/ scrupul\s cleanl9ess ( ut5sils & work%ops4 ,,gold5 ,,yell[4 ,i4 ,! fea!rs be+ sc\r$ & r9s$ clean ( soap1 prep>e a ba? ( five p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 bisulphate ( soda1 add solution 7filt]$7 ( azo orange1 accord+ to %ade4 ,ent] ! fea!rs at #abj ,f42 heat up sl[ly to #agj ,f41 :ile work+ ! fea!rs2 lift :5 ! %ade is obta9$1 squeeze out1 />* & dry4 ,,ii4 ,prep>e a ba? ) ?ree p] c5t4 7( ! weight ( ! fea!rs7 ,glaub] salt & "o p] c5t4 sulphuric acid4 ,ent] ! fea!rs at #ajj-abj ,f41 aft] add+ to ! ba? ! solution ( "o p] c5t4 gold5 yell[ ,s4 7( ,gu/4 ,do]r1 ,frank=t-on-,ma971 "w ! fea!rs repeat$ly dur+ "o-half h\r1 :5 !y all h assum$ a ri*1 n\ri%$ color2 take up1 r9se lightly2 />* & beat !m dry4 ,,old ,,gold4 ,h ! naturally :ite or decoloriz$ gray fea!rs well wa%$ 9 soap & r9s$ clean f x4 ,prep>e a hot ba? at #agj ,f41 to :i* add s mu* anil9e cream z to color x d>k r$di% yell[4 ,ent] ! fea!rs & agitate !m f five to t5 m9utes1 accord+ to ! %ade desir$4 ,!n take !m up1 add "s sulphuric acid to ! ba?1 re-ent] ! fea!rs1 "w = two m9utes2 !n lift1 r9se & dry4 ,! ba? c be pres]v$ = fur!r use4 ,,gray4 ,s unpret5d+ ?is color appe>s1 s difficult is x to produce1 & x requires a consid]able am\nt ( practice & good judgm5t to br+ out a good color f ! beg9n+1 z v little too mu* or too little w spoil a color ei!r 9 tone or 9 %ade4 ,a v good logwood gray1 :i* ) prop] att5tion seldom fails to turn out satisfactory1 is made z foll[s3 ,prep>e a hot ba?1 to :i* add a small quantity ( decoction ( logwood2 ent] ! fea!rs & "w !m 9 ! ba? = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes1 accord+ to %ade desir$4 ,!n take !m up1 add to ! ba? v little pyrolignite ( iron1 t is1 only z mu* z to turn ! color ( ! ba?2 re-ent] ! fea!rs1 agitate !m aga9 = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes 9 ! liquid2 !n lift1 r9se & />* z usual4 ,?is color might be be/ describ$ z d>k a% gray4 ,in/ead ( pyrolignite ( iron1 "s solution ( copp]as may be us$4 ,x w be easily und]/ood1 t ! m conc5trat$ ! decoction ( logwood is1 ! d>k] turns out ! color1 & x is 9 t respect p>ticul>ly t ! dy] has to use good judgm5t 9 produc+ %ades f silv] gray to d>k a% gray4 ,?is color1 besides1 pres5ts ! advantage1 t by topp+ x ) solutions ( blue1 br[n1 yell[ or gre5 coal-t> dye/uffs a great v>iety ( mode colors c be produc$4 ,,pe>l ,,gray4 ,aft] sc\r+ & r9s+ well1 prep>e a w>m ba? 7#ajj-abj ,f47 ) five p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 bisulphate ( soda1 to :i* add solution ( ,victoria blue & ( extract ( ar*il1 accord+ to sample4 ,acid violet may be us$1 b requires a temp]ature ne> ! boil+ po9t1 :i* ought to be avoid$ :]ev] possible 9 dye+ o/ri* fea!rs4 ,to be on ! safe side1 make ! solutions ( ! dye/uffs ( m$ium conc5tration1 use only ! cle> ( !m1 or bett] filt] ! same1 & add x sl[ly & gradually fir/ 9 small doses1 f9ally by drops1 = :i* purpose ! use ( a burette ) squeeze-cock is recomm5dable4 ,,silv] ,,gray4 ,sc\r1 respectively blea*1 & r9se ! fea!rs well clean1 prep>e a ba?1 "w ! solution ( five p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 silv] gray 7,acte9 ,gesells*aft fu] ,anil9 ,fabrikation1 ,b]l971 feebly acidulat$ ) sulphuric acid2 ent] ! fea!rs 9 ! cold1 "w well to make ! color dye up ev5ly2 !n raise ! temp]ature sl[ly "u dilig5t work+1 to #agj ,f41 cont9ue at ?is temp]ature = five to t5 m9utes1 lift1 r9se & dry4 ,,br[n4 ,! s]ies ( br[n colors1 p>tly produc$ by comb9ations ( spectrum colors1 p>tly ( direct br[n dye/uffs1 pres5ts a l>ge range ( modifications & %ades1 f a light ru/ br[n or buff to ne>ly black1 bluei%1 yell[i%1 r$di%1 olive br[n1 etc41 & is 9 ?is respect only inf]ior to ! non-descript endless v>iety ( modes4 ,) ! exception ( ! v lighte/ %ades1 :i* require p]fectly :ite fea!rs1 !y c be dy$ ^u half-blea*$1 & ! deep] %ades ^u unblea*$ gray fea!rs2 ! dy]1 mu/1 h[ev]1 9 ! latt] case1 be> 9 m9d1 t ! gray bottom color always influ5ces to a c]ta9 degree1 ! tone ( ! color t is to be dy$ ^u x4 ,nev]!less1 z to ! proportions ( ! dye/uffs to be employ$ = a giv5 tone or %ade _c be giv51 because ! t9ctorial value ( artificial dye/uffs is v *angeable & n ev5 con/ant ) ! same mak]s4 ,exp]i5ce1 skill & trial dyes mu/1 !re=e1 guide ! dy] 9 compos+ ! ba?s = br[ns z well z = modes1 ! majority ( ! latt] be+ modifications ( br[n4 ,9 g5]al ! foll[+ may be obs]v$3 ,i4 ,aft] sc\r+ ! fea!rs & r9s+ !m p]fectly clean ( ! sc\r+ mat]ial1 :e!r soap or soda1 prep>e a ba? ( #agj to #aij ,f41 to :i* add fifte5 p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 bisulphate ( soda1 indigo c>m9e1 extract ( ar*il & azo yell[4 ,accord+ to ! proportionally great] or small] quantity ( ei!r dye/uff add$ to ! dyeba? ei!r br[ns are obta9$1 or olives1 ,russia gre51 res$a1 or a v>iety ( modes4 ,! tr\ble ) all colors into ^: compositions indigo c>m9e ent]s is1 t ?is dye/uff requires a comp>atively high temp]ature to run up1 pref]ably a boil+ ba?1 :i*1 h[ev]1 is decid$ly objectionable ) o/ri* fea!rs4 ,to avoid ?is difficulty1 ! new acid ,victoria blue is us$ in/ead ( indigo c>m9e1 & fu*s9e ,s4 in/ead ( extract ( ar*il4 ,victoria blue dyes up readily at a mod]ate temp]ature4 ,,ii4 ,! fea!rs be+ sc\r$ & r9s$ clean1 prep>e a boil+ ba? ) s mu* sulphuric acid z to give a feebly s\r ta/e1 & add fa/ anil9e br[n1 turm]ic1 & indigo c>m9e or clo?-blue ,s41 accord+ to ! tone & %ade desir$4 ,prep>e ! ba? s t x %[s exactly ?is tone ( color :i* is to be dy$1 & br+ x to boil 9 ord] to produce a p]fect mixture ( ! ?ree dye/uffs1 or r _! filt]$ solutions4 ,!n *ill ! ba? to ab\t #abj ,f41 ent] ! fea!rs1 :ile rais+ ! temp]ature 9 ab\t fifte5 m9utes to ne> ! boil+ po9t2 !n dye to %ade1 lift1 r9se & dry4 ,x is advisable1 9 ord] to obta9 a level dye1 to add n ! :ole am\nt ( dye/uff solution requir$ at "o "t1 b at lea/ 9 two times2 :i* rule altoge!r applies to all anil9e dye/uffs1 m or less1 z !y mo/ly run up v rapidly & are apt1 !re=e1 to give unev5 dyes4 ,if a yell[i% t9t is want$1 use a little azo yell[ or azo orange2 picric acid1 :i* 0 =m]ly v freely us$ = ?is purpose1 has be5 almo/ entirely ab&on$4 ,,light ,,br[n4 ,clean & r9se !m z usual1 prep>e a ba? ( #agj-aij ,f41 ) r$>9e1 a trace ( orange ,o1 & "s acid gre52 ent] fea!rs & "w = "o-half h\r1 !n lift1 r9se & dry4 ,by v>y+ ! proportions ( dye/uffs1 a s]ies ( modes is obta9able4 7,dye/uffs manufactur$ by ,leonh>dt ,co41 ( ,mannheim74 ,,ru/ ,,br[n4 ,prep>e a slightly acidulat$ w>m ba? ) ?ree p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 fa/ anil9e br[n1 "o p] c5t4 azo yell[1 "o p]c5t4 extract ( indigo1 & a little sulphuric acid2 ent] ! well sc\r$ & r9s$ fea!rs at #abj-adj ,f41 "w ! fea!rs = "o-half h\r1 :ile sl[ly rais+ ! temp]ature to ! boil+ po9t2 cont9ue dye+ at t degree ( heat1 b n boil+1 = five m9utes2 lift1 r9se1 />* & dry4 ,,r$ ,,br[n4 ,i4 ,sc\r & r9se well2 prep>e a w>m ba?1 9 :i* dissolve ?ree p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 alum1 add tw5ty-five p] c5t4 extract ( ar*il1 "o & "o half p] c5t4 azo yell[1 & if requir$ = %ade1 "o-half p] c5t4 indigo c>m9e2 ent] at #agj ,f41 dye to %ade :ile sl[ly rais+ ! temp]ature to ne> ! boil+ po9t1 cont9ue at t temp]ature = t5 to fifte5 m9utes long]2 !n lift1 r9se & dry4 ,in/ead ( indigo c>m9e1 clo?-blue ,s4 may be us$1 9 :i* case ent] at #abj & raise ! temp]ature sl[ly1 n above #aij ,f4 ,or1 ,,ii4 ,prep>e a ba? at #aij ,f41 add five p] c5t4 bisulphate ( soda1 :5 dissolv$1 add solution ( extract ( ar*il1 fa/ yell[ & indigo c>m9e z requir$ = ! %ade1 & dye at t temp]ature to sample4 ,in/ead ( ar*il1 any r$ or orange azo dye/uff may be us$1 pref]ably bordeaux4 ,,c(fee ,,br[n4 ,h ! fea!rs w clean$ & r9s$1 blea*+ be+ n requir$1 prep>e a ba? ) ?ree p] c5t4 alum 7( ! weight ( fea!rs71 at #agj ,f41 add indigo c>m9e1 bordeaux & azo yell[1 accord+ to sample1 & dye to %ade :ile sl[ly rais+ ! temp]ature to ne> ! boil+ po9t1 b br+ n to boil1 b cont9ue until ! indigo c>m9e is well up4 ,a less fa/ color is obta9$ ) ar*il1 indigo c>m9e & picric acid4 ,:5 f9i%$ dye+1 r9se1 />* & dry z usual4 ,! dye/uffs = br[n be+ ne>ly ! same = all %ades1 :ile ! dep? & tone ( ! color is produc$ by diff]5tly proportion+ ! quantities ( ! diff]5t dye/uffs & ! "t ( dye+1 x is advantage\s to h ! solutions ( dye/uffs ne> by on h&2 x is advisable1 h[ev]1 if good "w is int5d$1 to always filt] be=e us+ solutions :i* h be5 /&+ = "s "t4 ,?is precaution is necess>y1 because f mo/ solutions1 if all[$ to /& = a day or long]1 "s dye/uff :i* 0 n dissolv$ b only susp5d$ 9 ! liquid1 sep>ates out =m+ a m or less copi\s s$im5t :i*1 if x passes into ! dye ba?1 settles ^u ! fea!rs caus+ spots or /reaks ( a diff]5t %ade ?an ! re/ ( ! fea!rs4 ,,puce4 ,sc\r & r9se ! fea!rs well2 grays c be us$ 9 _! natural color )\t blea*+4 ,prep>e a w>m ba?1 9 :i* dissolve eighty p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 t>t>ic acid & eighty p] c5t4 ,glaub] salt2 !n add sixte5 p] c5t4 anil9e fa/ br[n2 eight p] c5t4 azo yell[1 & sixte5 p] c5t4 indul9e or nigros9e1 & br+ ! ba? to a boil2 aft] a few m9utes ( boil+1 *ill by ! addition ( cold wat]1 ent] ! fea!rs & "w !m at h&-heat = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes until ! color has become level2 !n br+ ! ba? aga9 to ne> ! boil+ po9t2 lay ! fea!rs d[n 9 ! ba?1 %ut (f ! /eam1 or )draw f ! fire1 & let ! ba? cool d[n4 ,:5 cold1 t is 9 ab\t "o or two h\rs1 take out ! fea!rs1 r9se & dry4 ,,fawn4 ,prep>e a w>m ba? ) five p] c5t4 bisulphate ( soda1 add solutions ( azo orange1 acid violet & "s ar*il cauti\sly 9 sev]al doses until ! ba? has ! desir$ color4 ,ent] ! sc\r$ & r9s$ fea!rs & agitate = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes1 to produce a level dye2 !n raise ! temp]ature sl[ly to #aij-bjj ,f41 dye = a few m9utes long]1 lift1 r9se & dry4 ,by v>y+ ! proportions ( ! dye/uffs1 drab1 wood br[n1 lead color1 etc41 c be obta9$1 & olives by increas+ ! quantity ( acid violet & omitt+ ! extract ( ar*il4 ,,*e/nut ,,br[n4 ,sc\r & r9se ! fea!rs well2 natural grays may be us$ unblea*$4 ,prep>e a decoction ( "o & "o qu>t] p\nd cudbe>1 & six ounces turm]ic 9 two gallons ( wat]1 /ra9 ?r\gh a clo? & ent] ! fea!rs at h& heat 7ab\t #ij-ajj ,f472 "w !m = tw5ty or ?irty m9utes1 or until !y h atta9$ a n\ri%$ g>net color4 ,!n take !m out1 r9se1 lay !m d[n = five m9utes 9 a cold solution ( ab\t six ounces copp]as 9 "o-half gallon ( wat]1 take !m up & r9se 9 cold wat]4 ,!n return to ! fir/ ba?1 op]ate = fifte5 m9utes at h& heat1 ent] aga91 aft] r9s+1 ! iron ba?1 & cont9ue alt]nately dye+ ^u ! two ba?s until ! requir$ %ade is obta9$4 ,r9se e "t on %ift+ f "o ba? to ! o!r1 9 clean wat]1 & f9ally r9se well1 />* & dry4 ,,havanna4 ,i4 ,= ?is color x is advisable to use naturally :ite or blea*$ fea!rs1 sc\r or wa% !m clean 9 soap & w>m wat] & remove ! soap by ?or\ghly r9s+ 9 two w>m & "o cold wat]s4 ,prep>e a ba? slightly acidulat$ ) sulphuric acid1 to :i* add eighty p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 t>t>ic acid1 eight p] c5t4 azo yell[1 six p] c5t4 fa/ br[n1 & ?ree & a qu>t] p] c5t4 acid gre54 ,ent] ! fea!rs at #ajj-abj ,f4 & manipulate at t temp]ature = t5 or fifte5 m9utes4 ,!n raise ! temp]ature to ! boil+ po9t 7b d n boil71 lay ! fea!rs d[n 9 ! ba? = "o-half to "o h\r1 :ile ! ba? cools d[n1 lift1 />* & f9i% z usual4 ,,ii4 ,prep>e a ba? slightly acidulat$ ) sulphuric acid1 br+ to ne>ly boil+1 add a conc5trat$ solution ( orange ,s4 & "s acid gre51 ent] ! fea!rs & dye to %ade2 !n pass !m ?r\gh a week oil-ba?1 & dry !m1 plac$ /raight betwe5 sev]al laps ( clean musl94 ,,iii4 ,prep>e a ba? ( ! decoction ( twelve & a half p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 alum & tw5ty-five p] c5t4 turm]ic2 /ra91 ent] ! fea!rs at #agj-aij ,f41 & let !m lie 9 ! ba? ov] night4 ,on ! foll[+ day dye1 at #ajj ,f41 ) decoction ( fu/et1 tone ) decoction ( logwood or ( brazil1 accord+ to sample1 />* & dry4 ,,mu%room4 ,i4 ,= ?is elegant color take naturally :ite or blea*$ gray fea!rs1 sc\r & r9se !m well4 ,prep>e a hot ba? ) five p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 bisulphate ( soda1 to :i* add1 z requir$1 filt]$ solutions ( fa/ yell[1 indigo c>m9e & ponceau ,g4 ,ent] ! fea!rs at #agj ,f41 "w !m = t5 or fifte5 m9utes & raise ! temp]ature sl[ly to ne> ! boil+ po9t4 ,add ! dye/uffs 9 small quantities gradually1 mak+ ! additions only :5 ! dye/uff ( ! ba? has be5 completely absorb$1 & !n by drops s z to be able to correct ! color )\t wa/e ( dye/uff4 ,be> 9 m9d1 t ! indigo c>m9e dyes up sl[ly & requires a high temp]ature4 ,an easi] process is1 !re=e1 ! foll[+3 ,,ii4 ,aft] clean+ & r9s+ well1 prep>e a ba? at #agj ,f41 ) f\r p] c5t4 bisulphate ( soda1 to :i* add gradually 9 small quantities1 z requir$1 "s nigros9e1 azo orange & a little m&>9 or nigros9e1 alkal9e blue & fu*s9e ,s41 r9se1 />* & dry4 ,,light ,,drab4 ,sc\r & r9se ! fea!rs z usual2 blea*$ grays may be us$4 ,prep>e a ba? ) five p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 bisulphate ( soda & ! cle> solutions ( acid violet1 azo orange & fu*s9e ,s42 add ! dye/uff 9 small portions & f9ally by drops1 until ! ba? has ! desir$ %ade ( color2 !n ent] ! fea!rs & dye at #agj ,f4 to sample1 squeeze or c5trifugate1 />* & dry4 ,,beige4 ,i4 ,= ?is color take ei!r naturally :ite or well-blea*$ gray fea!rs1 sc\r or wa% & r9se !m clean4 ,prep>e pretty ?9 solutions ( anil9e orange 7*rysanil9e7 & violet1 add v little ( !m at a "t & f9ally by drops to ! dye/uffs conta9+ ei!r five p] c5t4 bisulphate ( soda or a small dose ( sulphuric acid2 ent] ! fea!rs at #ade ,f4 & dye to %ade at ! same temp]ature1 :i* w require ab\t tw5ty or ?irty m9utes2 lift1 r9se1 squeeze & />*4 ,,ii4 ,h ! fea!rs well clean$1 respectively1 blea*$1 & r9s$4 ,prep>e a hot ba? 7#agj-aij ,f471 ) a little sulphuric acid1 j en\gh to give x a slightly s\r ta/e1 add a few drops ( solution ( fa/ br[n & a little m solution ( acid gre5 7bo? dye/uffs ( ! ,f>bw]ke1 =m]ly ,mei/]1 ,lucius ,bru5+1 ,hoe*/-on-,ma972 take ( !m "o or two drops1 respectively two or ?ree drops p] gallon ( wat] = a light %ade & increase quantities proportionally = d>k] %ades4 ,r9se aft] dy+1 />* & dry4 ,,iii4 ,take :ite fea!rs or grays v well blea*$ to ne>ly :ite1 sc\r & r9se !m well4 ,prep>e a ba? ( w>m wat]1 #ajj-abj ,f4 & "s v9eg> s z to give x a di/9ct s\r ta/e2 add to a bas9 full1 or ab\t "o-half gallon ( ! ba? a little solution ( fa/ br[n1 "o or two drops ( indigo c>m9e1 & a trace ( turm]ic4 ,lay ! fea!rs d[n 9 ! ba? = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes & agitate !m repeat$ly 9 ! liquid to make !m level4 ,= a ,gray ,beige1 add a little nigros9e to ! ba? & proce$ z above4 ,,modes4 ,= ! modes x is impossible to give g5]ally applicable directions1 z ^! colors are ( an indef9itely v>y+ "*1 consi/+ 9 modifications ( o!r comp\nd or mix$ colors :i* are affect$ by sometimes v trifl+1 unmeasureable additions ( a ton+ dye/uff1 & color+ effects are produc$ :i* _c be describ$ nor def9$ by names1 b mu/ be judg$ by ! exp]i5c$ eye ( ! dy]4 ,mo/ ( ^! colors are d]iv$ f grays or br[ns z above rem>k$1 & ! safe/ way = ! dy] is1 to beg9 dye+ ) light %ades ( ! preval5t *>act]i/ic color & give !m ! peculi> tone by ! addition ( o!r colors by drops4 ,! proportions ( dye/uffs ?us asc]ta9$ = light %ades1 are !n easy to increase = deep] %ades4 ,x ne$s n to be rem>k$1 t = ^! colors ! fea!rs mu/ be blea*$1 especially = light & m$ium %ades1 & t1 if unblea*$1 grays are to be dy$ 9 d>k %ades1 ! effect ( ! natural color mu/ be consid]$ 9 compos+ ! dye4 ,9 g5]al all modes are dy$ ^u a ba? :i* is acidulat$ ) bisulphate ( soda1 ) azo orange1 azo yell[1 azo br[n1 acid violet1 indigo c>m9e1 solid blue or clo? blue1 indul9e or nigros9e1 ar*il or acid fu*s9e4 ,= br[n modes1 solution ( ,bism>ck br[n may be add$ at ! beg9n+1 9 :i* case ! o!r dye/uffs s]ve only = giv+ ! peculi> tone4 ,= a yell[i% gre5 mode take orange ,o1 azo yell[1 & solid blue 7fa/ blue72 = d>k] %ades add a little violet #f ,b41 or a few drops sulphate ( indigo4 ,if aliz>9e dye/uffs are to be employ$1 use t>t>ic acid z mordant1 b = neutral dye/uffs add also a little alum to ! dyeba?4 ,= gray modes use ! same dye/uffs z above1 except+ ! orange1 in/ead ( :i* a blue-r$ dye/uff is to be employ$1 su* z azo rub9e1 bordeaux1 fu*s9e1 etc41 ) ! addition ( a little acid gre54 ,! ba? mu/ be acidulat$ ) a little sulphuric acid1 or bett] ) t>t>ic acid1 or t>t>ic acid & alum1 & aft] dye+ ! fea!rs mu/ be r9s$1 />*$ & dri$ z usual4 ,= p>ticul>ly fa/ modes add only t>t>ic acid to ! dyeba? & no alum1 & a few drops ( solution ( ?io-sc>let1 ?io-rub9e1 & ?io-br[n2 = grays add a little azo yell[ & sadd5 ) solid blue4 ,alum does n agree ) ! ?io dye/uffs :i* are manufactur$ by ,dahl ,co41 ,b>m91 & are fa/ aga9/ soap & light4 ,fea!rs dy$ ) ^! dye/uffs :i* h become soil$1 c be wa%$1 !re=e1 ) neutral soap )\t injury to ! color1 b mu/ naturally be dress$ anew4 ,,res$a4 ,sc\r ! :ite1 respectively blea*$ fea!rs & r9se well4 ,prep>e a ba? ) five p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 bisulphate ( soda1 to :i* add gradually & c>efully ! filt]$ solution ( acid violet1 fa/ yell[ & fu*s9e ,s41 mak+ ! additions f ! beg9n+ 9 small quantities only1 until ! desir$ tone & %ade are obta9$2 !n ent] & "w ! fea!rs to sample at #agc ,f4 ,x is = ?is dye p>ticul>ly important t ! bisulphate ( soda us$ be cry/alliz$1 t is1 pure bisulphate free f surplus sulphuric acid1 :ile ! comm]cial article is (t5 no?+ b a mixture ( ,glaub] salt 7sulphate ( soda7 into sulphuric acid1 answ] = ?is dye4 ,a good res$a is also easily obta9$ by add+ to ! acidulat$ ba? small quantities ( decoction ( logwood & turm]ic1 s z to give a feeble ba?4 ,ent] ! sc\r$ & blea*$ fea!rs1 aft] r9s+1 at #agj ,f41 "w !m = ab\t fifte5 m9utes1 until level1 & sadd5 ) a little solution ( blue /one4 ,r9se1 />* & dry z usual4 ,,ord9>y ,,gre54 ,= two & "o-half p\nds ( fea!rs boil two & "o-half p\nds ( fu/ic = "o-half h\r ) ?ree qu>ts ( wat]1 p\r ! decoction (f & boil ! *ips aga9 = "o-half h\r ) ?ree qu>ts ( wat]1 mix ! two decoctions & /ra94 ,add ?ree ounces alum & "o & "o-half ounces t>t>1 ent] ! fea!rs well sc\r$ & r9s$1 & dye to %ade at #agj ,f4 ,or1 prep>e ! dye/uffs ( decoction ( fu/ic or turm]ic1 & indigo c>m9e1 accord+ to %ade1 ent] at #agj ,f41 "w = "o-half h\r :ile sl[ly rais+ ! temp]ature to ne> ! boil+ po9t1 & dye to sample2 lift1 r9se1 squeeze & />* z usual4 ,,light ,,gre54 ,i4 ,sc\r1 respectively blea*1 & r9se ! fea!rs4 ,prep>e a hot ba? ) ! solution ( =ty p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 tann91 & treat ! fea!rs 9 x = #a h\r at #agj;,f4 ,prep>e a ba? ) a filt]$ solution ( me?yl gre51 accord+ to %ade1 tone1 if a yell[i% gre5 is want$1 ) ! cle> solution ( picric acid1 & dye to sample at #aej ,f4 ,lift1 squeeze & />* )\t r9s+4 ,,ii4 ,a bett] color is obta9$ ^u a lightly acidulat$ ba? 7) sulphuric acid7 ) acid gre51 mala*ite gre51 fa/ gre51 etc41 t is1 ) ! filt]$ solutions ( ^! dye/uff's1 add$ to ! ba? 9 quantities ( f t5 to tw5ty p] c5t4 to suit ! %ade4 ,ent] at #agj ,f42 dye = tw5ty or ?irty m9utes1 lift1 r9se1 squeeze & dry ) />*4 ,if a yell[i% tone is want$1 add ! cle> solution ( picric acid1 or ( acid yell[4 ,,moss ,,gre54 ,sc\r & r9se ! fea!rs well2 = d>k %ades unblea*$ grays may be us$4 ,prep>e a feebly acidulat$ ba? ) sulphuric acid1 at a temp]ature ne> ! boil+ po9t2 add turm]ic freely & ,gu9ea gre5 ,g less4 ,ent] ! fea!rs & manipulate at ! same temp]ature = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes1 accord+ to ! desir$ tone1 re-ent] & dye to %ade4 ,by v>y+ ! proportions ( ! ?ree dye/uffs1 a great v>iety ( gre5-br[ni% modes c be produc$1 :i* approa* m$ium & d>k bronzes ! m ! fa/ br[n pr$om9ates 9 ! composition ( ! color4 ,,bog ,,gre54 ,?is color is pref]ably dy$ ^u unblea*$ gray fea!rs4 ,sc\r & r9se !m1 prep>e a decoction ( gre5 walnut husks or ( sumac2 lay ! fea!rs d[n 9 x = two h\rs1 work+ !m f "t to "t2 !n add "s decoction ( logwood & dye to %ade at #agj ,f41 or indigo c>m9e & dye to %ade :ile sl[ly rais+ ! temp]ature to ne> ! boil+ po9t4 ,r9se1 squeeze1 />* & dry4 ,,grass ,,gre54 ,sc\r1 respectively blea*1 & r9se ! fea!rs4 ,prep>e a boil+ ba? ) turm]ic & indigo c>m9e2 *ill1 ent] ! fea!rs at #agj ,f41 dye = "o-half h\r1 raise ! temp]ature sl[ly to ne> ! boil+ po9t & dye to %ade1 take up1 r9se & pass ?r\gh a h&w>m ba? ( t>t>2 lift1 squeeze1 />* & dry4 ,,russia ,,gre54 ,i4 ,sc\r ! fea!rs z usual & r9se well4 ,prep>e a ba? slightly acidulat$ ) sulphuric acid1 add two p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 acid gre5 & "o p] c5t4 anil9e navy blue dissolv$ 9 w>m wat] & filt]$ acid1 accord+ to sample1 "s filt]$ decoction ( turm]ic or solution ( fa/ yell[4 ,dye at #agj ,f4 to %ade1 lift r9se & dry ) />*4 ,,ii4 ,h ! fea!rs well clean$ & r9s$4 ,prep>e a ba? tw5ty p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 new gre51 eight p] c5t4 can>9e1 sixte5 p] c5t4 anil9e blue black1 sixty p] c5t4 alum1 & "o-qu>t] litre sulphuric acid 7= two & a half p\nds ( fea!rs74 ,br+ ! ba? to a brisk boil1 !n *ill ) cold wat]1 ent] ! fea!rs & "w !m = "o h\r2 f9ally sadd5 & tone by add+ "s decoction ( fu/ic & ( logwood4 ,lift1 r9se1 squeeze1 />* & dry4 ,,iii4 ,prep>e a %>p hot ba? ) a little sulphuric acid2 add ,gu9ea gre51 accord+ to %ade1 & tone by ! addition ( indigo c>m9e & turm]ic2 = v deep %ades add also "s nigros9e or fa/ blue-black1 dissolv$ & filt]$4 ,ent] z hot z ! fea!rs c be h&l$1 "w = "o half h\r2 !n raise ! temp]ature sl[ly to ne> ! boil+ po9t & dye to %ade4 ,! ba? = deep] %ades be+ n exhau/$ c be pres]v$ = fur!r use1 refre%$ by suitable additions ( dye/uffs z requir$1 b caution mu/ be us$ z reg>ds ! subsequ5t additions ( sulphuric acid1 t n s mu* be add$ z to injure ! fea!rs4 ,= ,russia gre51 especially ! d>k] %ades ( x1 naturally gray & ev5 black fea!rs c be us$ unblea*$4 ,,rose4 ,i4 ,= ?is delicate color1 z well z = ! lighte/ %ades ( blue & pure yell[1 absolutely :ite fea!rs mu/ be us$2 sc\r !m c>efully & r9se !m p]fectly clean f soap or soda1 & h ! dye/uffs well dissolv$ & ! solutions filt]$4 ,prep>e a h&w>m ba? ) a little t>t>ic acid or acetic acid1 to :i* "s solution ( eos9e1 rhodam9e1 azoeos9e1 safran9e1 cocc9e or ponceau #f ,r4 ,b4 or ponceau ,r4 ,r4 ,be p>ticul>ly cauti\s 9 add+ ! dye/uff solutions gradually 9 small quantities1 ev5 by drops1 to avoid ov]-dye+1 z by p>tly /ripp+ ( a too d>k %ade1 a f9e color c nev] be obta9$1 & ! nature ( ! mat]ial dem&s t all unnecess>y h&l+ be avoid$4 ,aft] dye+1 r9se lightly1 pass ?r\gh />* & dry4 ,! dyes ) ! ponceaus are fa/] ?an ^? ) eos9e or safran9e4 ,,ii4 ,prep>e a ba? at h& heat ) c>?am9e 7extract ( saffl[]71 well dissolv$ & filt]$1 :i* add v gradually 9 small quantities1 tak+ up ! fea!rs ea* "t be=e mak+ a fre% addition1 until ! desir$ %ade is ne>ly obta9$1 !n add a little t>t>ic acid to ! ba?1 re-ent] ! fea!rs & dye to %ade2 or dye fir/ to %ade ^u ! saffl[] ba?1 & !n pass ?r\gh a fre%1 h&w>m feeble ba? ( t>t>ic acid1 :i* 9 ?is case c be us$ aga9 = o!r colors1 ei!r z a fix+ ba? or 9 ! composition ( ! dye ba?4 ,,r$4 ,sc\r & r9se ! fea!rs well2 grays mu/ be blea*$ z ne> to :ite z possible1 & ^! ought only to be dy$ d>k %ades ( r$4 ,prep>e a ba? ) tw5ty p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 bisulphate ( soda1 & see1 z 9 all cases1 t x is well cry/alliz$ & dry4 7,nev] use ! article :5 x looks decay$1 =ms lumps or is moi/74 ,add f\r to six p] c5t4 azo r$1 accord+ to ! %ade want$1 raise ! temp]ature to #agj ,f41 ent] ! fea!rs & "w to %ade2 take out1 />* & dry4 ,,fa/ ,,aliz>9e ,,r$4 ,i4 ,sc\r & r9se ! :ite1 respectively blea*$ gray1 fea!rs & prep>e a ba? ( boil+ wat] ) eight p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 alum1 f\r p] c5t4 t>t>ic acid1 two or ?ree p] c5t4 oxalic acid1 & ?ree p] c5t4 aliz>9e r$2 let ! ba? boil = fifte5 m9utes1 !n let ! temp]ature g d[n j bel[ ! boil+ po9t4 ,lay d[n ! fea!rs 9 ! ba?1 :i* keep at ne> ! boil+ po9t = at lea/ "o h\r be=e all[+ x to g d[n to h&-heat2 !n cont9ue = two or ?ree h\rs long]1 agitat+ ! fea!rs f "t to "t2 lift1 r9se1 />* & dry4 ,by us+ aliz>9e acid #b ,a4 bl4 bl41 a pure r$1 simil> to ,turkey r$ is obta9$4 ,aliz>9e #a ,w4 ,s4 gives sc>lets4 ,if ! fea!rs are pass$1 be=e r9s+1 ?r\gh a /rong soap ba?1 pretty blue tones are produc$4 ,,ii4 ,= a full] r$1 /rik+ t[>ds bordeau1 prep>e a well conc5trat$ boil+ ba? 9 ! same mann] ) ?ree p] c5t4 bi*romate ( pota%1 "o & "o-half to two p] c5t4 t>t>ic acid1 "o p] c5t4 oxalic acid1 & eight p] c5t4 aliz>9e r$ #b ,a4 bl4 bl4 ,:5 all is dissolv$1 let ! temp]ature g d[n bel[ ! boil+ po9t1 ent] ! fea!rs1 & proce$ z above4 ,,sc>let4 ,i4 ,= ?is color naturally :ite fea!rs are pref]ably us$1 b well blea*$ grays may also be employ$2 sc\r & r9se well4 ,!n fill y\r pan ) boil+ wat]1 add a few h&fuls ( bran1 let x well boil up1 remove ! bran f ! ba? & rub ! fea!rs 9 ! ba? z 9 wa%+2 !n pass !m ?ree times ?r\gh clean1 cold wat]4 ,:ile ! fea!rs are dra9+1 prep>e ano!r fre% ba? ( lukew>m wat]1 to :i* add a little *loride ( t9 &1 = "o p\nd ( fea!rs1 ab\t two p9*es ( />* & n9ety grammes co*9eal2 !n br+ ! ba? to boil & let x g5tly boil = eight or t5 m9utes1 %ut (f ! /eam or remove ! pan f ! fire1 let x /& = a few m9utes4 ,!n lay ! fea!rs d[n 9 ! ba?1 tak+ c>e t !y are well kept d[n 9 ! liquid1 "w = tw5ty m9utes dilig5tly1 !n let !m lodge 9 ! ba? = six to eight h\rs4 ,z ! comb9ation ( co*9eal & ! *loride is readily oxydiz$ & *ang$ to violet by ! oxyg5 ( ! air1 x is advisable to dye 9 a t9n$ pan ) cov] to %ut out ! air4 ,!n pass ?r\gh ?ree lukew>m wat]s1 ! la/ ( :i* conta9s a little *loride ( t9 & ab\t a p9* ( cream ( t>t>4 ,,ii4 ,prep>e a hot ba? ) tw5ty p] c5t4 7( ! weight ( fea!rs7 bisulphate ( soda1 well cry/alliz$ & dry1 & f\r to six p] c5t4 azo r$1 accord+ to %ade4 ,ent] ! fea!rs at #agj ,f41 dye to sample 9 fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes1 lift1 />* & dry4 ,accord+ to ! br& ( azo r$ :i* is us$1 ei!r sc>let or ponceau is obta9$4 ,by mix+ ! v>i\s br&s ( azo r$1 a v f9e ponceau is produc$4 ,if a v blue tone is desir$1 add to ! ba? "s solution ( cocc99e 7azo r$ blue t\*74 ,,ponceau4 ,i4 ,sc\r & r9se ! :ite1 respectively blea*$ fea!rs well4 ,prep>e a ne>ly boil+ ba?1 acidulat$ ) sulphuric acid1 to :i* simply add ponceau ,r4 ,r4 extra4 ,ent] ! fea!rs1 op]ate at boil+ heat "o-half h\r1 !n lay d[n ! fea!rs & let !m lodge until level2 lift1 r9se1 />* & dry4 ,,ii4 ,prep>e a %>p h&w>m ba? ) "o p] c5t4 t>t>ic acid 7( ! weight ( fea!rs71 or ) "o p] c5t4 ,glaub] salt & "o-f\r? p] c5t4 sulphuric acid1 to :i* add ! filt]$ solutions ( ponceau ,r4 ,b41 ponceau #f ,r4 ,b41 & eos9e ,s4 extra ,b4 ,ent] ! fea!rs & agitate = tw5ty to ?irty m9utes1 or until ! desir$ %ade is obta9$2 lift1 r9se1 />* & dry4 ,,iii4 ,lay d[n ! fea!rs = f\r h\rs 9 a cold ba? 9 :i* "s *loride ( t9 has be5 dissolv$2 !n dye = "o-half h\r 9 a h& w>m ba? ( co*9eal1 lift & dry4 ,,iv4 ,prep>e a ba? ) "o & "o-half p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 sac*>ic acid1 "o-qu>t] p] c5t4 t9 salt1 & six to sev5 p] c5t4 co*9eal1 br+ ! ba? to boil = "o m9ute2 !n *ill4 ,ent] ! sc\r$ & r9s$ fea!rs at h& heat1 dye = ?ree-qu>t]s ( an h\r1 take up & expose !m = two h\rs to ! air1 r9se1 />* & dry4 ,,bordeaux4 ,sc\r & r9se ! fea!rs well4 ,prep>e a boil+ hot ba? slightly acidulat$ ) sulphuric acid1 to :i* add a lib]al quantity ( ponceau #f ,r4 ,b41 a few drops solution ( anil9e blue1 & "s yell[ dye/uff1 su* z turm]ic1 fa/ yell[1 or qu9ol9e yell[1 & br+ ! ba? to boil = a few m9utes4 ,!n *ill to %>p h&-heat1 ent] ! fea!rs & "w until level1 & sample2 if /ill too light1 add "s m ( all ^! dye/uffs4 ,z ! ba? %[s f ! beg9n+ ! color x w produce1 x c be correct$ be=e ent]+ ! fea!rs4 ,,g>net 7,,r$74 ,i4 ,sc\r & r9se ! fea!rs well clean1 grays ought to be blea*$4 ,prep>e ! dyeba? z = ponceau 7,i471 or use an old ponceau ba?1 & add to x "s anil9e c]ise 7*]ry r$7 & v little extract ( indigo1 or solution ( fa/ blue-black4 ,ent] fea!rs z hot z possible to h&le1 "w = fifte5 to tw5ty m9utes :ile rais+ ! temp]ature to boil+ heat2 !n /op heat+1 lay d[n ! fea!rs1 & let !m lodge until level2 lift1 r9se & dry4 ,,ii4 ,prep>e a boil+ hot1 n boil+1 ba? ( anotto1 accord+ to %ade1 ent] ! fea!rs1 "w !m well ?r\gh1 !n lay !m d[n 9 ! ba? = twelve h\rs4 ,take !m up1 r9se1 pass ?r\gh a mod]ately /rong alum ba?1 r9se aga91 & dye at #agj;,f41 ) ei!r decoction ( r$ wood 7brazil1 camwood1 etc417 or fu*s9e2 lift & dry4 ,,g>net 7,,br[n74 ,= v deep %ades naturally gray fea!rs may be us$ unblea*$ ) prop] consid]ation ( ! tone ( ! bottom color4 ,h ! fea!rs well clean$ & r9s$1 & add to a ba? ( two gallons ( wat]1 "o & "o-qu>t] p\nds cudbe> & five ounces turm]ic4 ,br+ ! ba? to boil1 boil = five or t5 m9utes1 let cool d[n to #ajj ,f41 ent] ! fea!rs & dye to %ade4 ,lift1 />* & dry4 ,or1 utilize a us$ ruby ba? 7foll[+7 & add to x five ounces turm]ic4 ,,ruby4 ,= a good color ! fea!rs mu/ be :ite1 naturally or blea*$2 sc\r & r9se !m well4 ,add to two gallons ( wat] "o & "o-half p\nds good cudbe>1 /ir well1 ent] ! fea!rs & "w !m1 :ile sl[ly heat+1 z long z ! h&s c /& x4 ,!n lay !m d[n until color$ to %ade1 lift1 r9se well1 />* & dry4 ,,salmon4 ,i4 ,salmon or fle% may be dy$ ^u blea*$ naturally gray fea!rs1 9 :i* case ! creamy t9t ( ! fea!rs mu/ be tak5 into consid]ation & c be utiliz$ = c]ta9 brok5 tones ( ! color4 ,h ! fea!rs well wa%$ 9 soap or soda1 & r9s$ p]fectly clean4 ,= dye+ prep>e a ba? z = rose1 pref]ably ) ponceau ,b4 ,r41 or utilize an old ba? = rose1 accord+ to its /r5g? & ! %ade to be produc$1 & add 9 ei!r case a suitable1 small quantity ( filt]$ decoction ( turm]ic4 ,proce$ z /at$ = dye+ rose1 ) ! diff]5ce only1 t ! acid may be add$ to ! dyeba? at once1 if ! ba? is made fre%4 ,p>ticul>ly f9e %ades are obta9$ ) rhodam9e & turm]ic1 9 a ba? slightly acidulat$ ) acetic acid1 ^u blea*$ grays4 ,,ii4 ,prep>e a ba? z = rose1 ) "s solution ( eos9e1 a little qu9ol9e yell[1 accord+ to tone1 & a little acetic acid1 j en\gh to give ! ba? a slightly s\r ta/e4 ,ent] ! well clean$1 or blea*$ fea!rs aft] r9s+1 at h& heat & agitate !m until ! ba? is well exhau/$1 or a level color1 accord+ to sample1 obta9$1 r9se lightly1 />* & dry4 ,,am>an?4 ,aft] sc\r+ & r9s+1 prep>e a ba? ) "o & "o-half ounces alum p] gallon ( wat]1 at #ge-hj ,f41 & lay ! fea!rs d[n 9 x ov] night4 ,on ! next morn+ r9se !m 9 cold wat]2 !n dye !m at h&-heat to ne>ly boil+ heat 9 a /ra9$ decoction ( ,brazil wood 7or camwood1 hyp]nic1 etc47 until ! requir$ %ade is obta9$1 & r9se 9 w>m wat] to :i* "s t>t> has be5 add$2 />* & dry4 ,,bronze4 ,= ?is color naturally gray fea!rs may be us$ if a deep %ade is to be dy$2 = light %ades !y ought to be blea*$4 ,sc\r & r9se ! fea!rs well2 !n prep>e a ba? ) five p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 bisulphate ( soda1 to :i* add azo orange1 acid violet & extract ( ar*il4 ,dissolve ! dye/uffs1 ea* sep>ately 9 wat]1 filt]1 add ! cle> solutions gradually 9 small quantities until ! %ade is ne>ly rea*$1 !n1 9 ord] to correct1 by drops1 until ! exact dep? & tone are obta9$4 ,ent] ! fea!rs & dye to %ade at #agj ,f4 ,in/ead ( acid violet indigo c>m9e may be us$2 9 ?is case1 h[ev]1 z ! dye/uff runs up sl[ly & difficultly1 "w at #agj ,f41 = tw5ty to ?irty m9utes1 !n raise ! temp]ature sl[ly to ne> ! boil+ po9t & cont9ue at t temp]ature1 )\t actual boil+1 until ! requir$ color is obta9$4 ,!n r9se1 squeeze1 />* & dry4 ,bronze is also produc$ l drab1 t is1 ) azo orange1 acid violet & fu*s9e ,s41 b ) great] quantities ( dye/uff4 ,bronze is also obta9$ ) ! recipe = any d>k br[n1 by mak+ ! yell[ 9 x pr$om9ant2 p>ticul>ly good bronzes are 9 ?is mann] obta9$ f d>k *e/nut br[n4 ,,olive4 ,i4 ,clean ! fea!rs by lay+ !m d[n = six h\rs1 or ov] night1 9 a weak w>m solution ( soda cry/als 7#a ,b47 to :i* add s mu* ammonia z to give x a fa9t odor2 take up :5 completely ungreas$ & r9se well 9 lukew>m & cold wat]s4 ,prep>e ! dyeba? ) five p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 bisulphate ( soda1 to :i* add filt]$ solutions ( indigo c>m9e1 ar*il & fa/ yell[ z requir$ = ! sample4 ,z ! indigo c>m9e is sl[ to dye up & requires boil+ heat or a temp]ature ne> x1 dye fir/ ! fea!rs blue ) indigo c>m9e1 !n let ! ba? cool d[n to #agj ,f41 & add ! solutions ( ar*il & fa/ yell[ 9 small successive quantities1 s z to be able to give ! accurate tone4 ,in/ead ( extract ( ar*il1 fa/ r$ or bordeaux may be employ$4 ,to avoid any possible injury to ! fea!rs by ! high temp]ature necess>y = indigo c>m9e to run up1 9 its /ead a solution ( alkal9e blue or ( acid ,victoria blue4 ,take up & dry ! fea!rs )\t r9s+4 ,,ii4 ,sc\r well & r9se ! fea!rs1 & prep>e a ba? ) ?ree p] c5t4 alum 7( ! weight ( fea!rs71 to :i* add azo orange & "s indigo c>m9e2 ent] at #agj ,f41 dye = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes1 !n raise ! temp]ature sl[ly to ne> ! boil+ po9t & dye to %ade4 ,lift & dry4 ,by beg9n+ ) small quantities ( ! dye/uffs & successively increas+ !m & v>y+ _! proportions1 a s]ies ( f9e %ades f light old gold to ! deepe/ olive1 ne> black c be produc$4 ,,iii4 ,prep>e a boil+ ba?1 9 :i* dissolve "o p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 alum1 "o p] c5t4 ,glaub] salt1 & add a little sulphuric acid2 let cool d[n to #agj ,f41 add "s fa/ yell[1 a little solution ( ar*il & ( sulphate ( indigo1 "w = fifte5 m9utes :ile rais+ ! temp]ature to ! boil+ po9t1 & sadd5 ) blue black1 lift1 r9se & dry ) />*4 ,,iv4 ,prep>e a %>p h&w>m ba? ) a little sulphuric acid1 to :i* add ! cle> solution ( a little qu9ol9e yell[ or turm]ic1 & acid gre52 ent] ! fea!rs & "w = fifte5 m9utes1 or until !y h tak5 a suffici5tly n\ri%$ yell[-gre5 color2 !n take !m up1 add to ! ba? "s solution ( fa/ br[n1 z requir$ by ! sample & dye at #agj ,f4 to %ade2 r9se1 squeeze1 />* & dry4 ,! br[n dye/uff mu/ be add$ v c>efully 9 small doses1 be/ by drops1 9 ord] to obta9 ) c]ta9ty any ( ! great v>ieties ( %ades1 f olive gre5 to olive br[n1 z requir$4 ,,violet4 ,naturally gray fea!rs may be us$ unblea*$1 b only = v deep %ades z ! bottom color acts dull+ ^u ! dye1 & brilliant colors c only be obta9$ ^u a pure :ite bottom4 ,sc\r1 respectively blea* well1 & r9se clean4 ,prep>e a hot ba? to :i* add "s filt]$ solution ( me?yl violet1 accord+ to tone1 t is1 m or less blue1 ent] ! fea!rs & "w until cool1 !n add gradually m dye/uff solution accord+ to %ade :ile rais+ ! temp]ature to ne> ! boil+ po9t & cont9ue at ?is temp]ature until ! desir$ %ade is ne>ly obta9$4 ,if too blue1 tone ) a little solution ( fu*s9e ,s4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ! op]ation take up ! fea!rs1 add "s alum to ! ba?1 & :5 x is dissolv$1 %ut (f ! /eam1 re-ent] ! fea!rs & "w to %ade = ab\t t5 m9utes4 ,!n lift1 r9se & dry4 ,,heliotrope ,,& ,,lilac4 ,i4 ,^! colors be+ simply m$ium & light %ades ( violet1 proce$ z = ! latt] color1 select+ = heliotrope ! blui% br&s ( me?yl violet1 & = lilac ! r$ t\* m>k4 ,! dyeba? is acidifi$ ) a little t>t>ic acid1 s z to give x a feeble s\ri% ta/e & dye+ done at h&-heat until a level color is obta9$ ) v little solution ( ! dye/uff1 & m ( x gradually add$1 :ile ! temp]ature is rais$ to ne>ly boil+1 z requir$ = ! %ade to be produc$4 ,or1 ,,ii4 ,prep>e ! dyeba? simply ( cold wat] acidulat$ ) a little sulphuric acid1 add a few drops ( ! filt]$ solution ( me?yl violet 7#d ,b4 = heliotrope71 & dye to %ade )\t heat+4 ,9 bo? cases r9se aft] dye+1 pass ?r\gh a ba? ( raw />* & dye z usual4 ,,cream4 ,i4 ,! lighte/ %ade ( ?is delicate color c be produc$ ^u naturally gray o/ri* fea!rs by simply blea*+ !m2 ?is color1 h[ev]1 is extremely s5sitive1 probably because ! action ( p]oxyd ( hydrog5 cont9ues "u ! influ5ce ( ! oxyg5 ( ! air4 ,blea*$ grays require1 !re=e1 dy+ z well z naturally :ite fea!rs4 ,! fea!rs be+ well sc\r$ & r9s$1 prep>e 9 a :ite bas9 7pref]able to ! copp] pans1 because ! color+ ( ! dyeba? is easi] & m correctly disc]n$ ov] ! :ite bottom7 a ba? ( pretty hot wat]1 to :i* add a p9* ( t>t>ic acid1 & a little decoction ( turm]ic or solution ( fa/ anil9e yell[ or ( azo yell[1 b only en\gh to give ! wat] a light t9t2 "w ! fea!rs 9 x = f\r to six m9utes4 ,!n sample & correct1 if necess>y1 by add+ m dye/uff solution4 ,! %ade be+ obta9$1 pass ?r\gh cold wat]1 />* & dry u usual4 ,,ii4 ,prep>e 9 a :ite bas9 a h&w>m ba? ) ?ree or f\r drops ( sulphuric acid & a few drops ( ! filt]$ solutions ( picric acid1 fa/ anil9e yell[1 qu9ol9e yell[1 or m&>ic yell[ extra1 b pref]ably turm]ic :i* dyes up m ev5ly ?an ! o!r dye/uffs4 ,ent] ! fea!rs & agitate !m = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes2 !n lay !m d[n 9 ! ba? = "o-half h\r long] to insure a level dye2 lift1 draw ?r\gh lukew>m wat]1 />* & dry4 ,,:ite ,,& ,,black4 ,sci5ce tea*es t :ite is ! s\rce ( light or ! product ( comb9ation ( all o!r colors1 because ! light ( ! sun1 :i* is assum$ to be :ite1 :5 brok5 up by means ( a prism1 %[s 9 its image reflect$ ^u a :ite pla91 ! ?ree prim>y1 & ?ree second>y colors ) ! unc\nt$ numb] ( int]m$i>y products ( comb9ations ( fractions ( ! prim>y colors =m+ ! transition f "o to ! o!r1 :i* c be p]ceiv$ by ! eye b n exactly sep>at$ f "o ano!r1 b may quantitatively det]m9$ to an approximate degree ( accuracy4 ,black1 on ! o!r h&1 is describ$ z ! abs5ce ( all light1 & x is d5i$1 !re=e1 by !ory a place among ! colors4 ,practice ass]ts ! direct contr>y ( ! !ory develop$ by sci5ce by way ( conclusion4 ,:ile philosoph]s ass]t t !y h succe$$ 9 produc+ :ite light by ! comb9ation ( lights ( ! v>i\s colors1 = :i* comb9ation1 h[ev]1 !y give no =mula1 no dy] ) ! greate/ pati5ce & ) ! mo/ subtile proportion+ ( dye/uffs1 giv+ pure reproductions ( ! prim>y colors z se5 9 ! spectrum or image ( ! brok5 sunbeam1 c ev] be able to produce any?+ ( a color approa*+ :ite4 ,b e dy] kn[s h[ to produce :ite by blea*+1 t is1 by ! de/ruction ( all color4 ,& ?is op]ation is comp>atively simple & easy to p]=m1 s9ce ! great a*ievem5ts ( mod]n *emi/ry h plac$ into ! h& ( ! dy] ! mo/ en]getic & effecti\s color de/roy+ ag5ts4 ,! o/ri* fea!r dy] ( to-day is able to conv]t naturally gray & ev5 black fea!rs into ne>ly pure :ite1 :i* und]tak+ 8 fa!r w\ld h call$ ! boa/ ( a d]ang$ m9d & an absolute physical impossibility4 ,& ) ! aid ( a complem5t>y color dy$ ^u ! blea*$ fea!rs ! t9t rema9+ ^u !m is oblit]at$1 or neutraliz$1 :i* op]ation is g5]ally call$ :ite dye+1 al?\gh c]ta9ly :ite _c be dy$ ) a blue or violet dye/uff z little z blue or violet c be produc$ ) a yell[ dye/uff4 ,black1 on ! o!r h&1 al?\gh ! "n & rank ( a color is d5i$ x by ! doctr9es ( !ory is1 = ! dy]1 mo/ ess5tially a color requir+ = its production ! contribution ( all colors1 z c be %[n by a simple exp]im5t4 ,if1 = in/ance1 )9 a circle1 ?ree equal circles1 ^: diamet]s are great] ?an half ! diamet] ( ! surr\nd+ circle1 are pr9t$1 "o blue1 "o r$ & "o yell[1 s t ! po9ts ( contact ) ! p]iph]y ( ! out] circle are equidi/ant f "o ano!r1 or =m a regul> triangle1 _! segm5ts ov]lapp+ "o ano!r =m f\r sph]ical triangles1 "o violet :]e r$ & blue cov] "o ano!r1 "o orange :]e r$ & yell[ come toge!r1 "o gre5 :]e yell[ & blue are mix$1 b ! f\r? is ! c5tre1 :]e p>ts ( ! ?ree diff]5tly color$ segm5ts cov] "o ano!r1 is black1 b ton$ by ! color ( ! greate/ int5sity4 ,9 fact1 black requires = its production m color1 & is m difficult to dye ?an any color ( ! spectrum4 ,x is n /range1 !re=e1 t _m m me?ods h be5 propos$ & h be5 tri$ & adopt$ to dye black ?an = ! production ( any o!r color4 ,yet all ^! blacks are m or less t9t$ & are no?+ m ?an ! deepe/ %ade1 :i* c be produc$ ) ! aid ( metallic salts1 ( blue1 br[n1 gray1 violet1 gre5 & ev5 r$4 ,! only black ^u o/ri* fea!rs :i* may be ju/ly call$ an absolute black is t produc$ aft] ! me?od ( ,mr4 ,paul1 z describ$ 9 ! front "p ( ?is book 7page #ec-ef74 ,x pres5ts1 besides1 ! advantage1 t x c be completely done 9 eighte5 m9utes1 :ile !re are old] me?ods :i* require n less ?an ?ree days4 ,su*1 ( c\rse1 w f9d no room "h1 b only ! mo/ reliable & exp$iti\s1 & safe/ ( ! old] me?ods w be select$ ) due reg>d bo? to beauty ( color & pres]vation ( ! preci\s mat]ial4 ,,:ite4 ,naturally :ite o/ri* fea!rs & blea*$ grays1 l all mat]ial tak5 f ! animal realm1 reta9s ev5 aft] sc\r+ & blea*+ a m or less noticeable yell[i% t9t1 :i* becomes visible aft] "s "t ev5 ^u su* z appe> sn[-:ite imm$iately aft] sc\r+4 ,! cause is1 probably1 t ! fat :i* is conta9$ 9 fea!rs1 z well z 9 wool & hair1 & a "p ( :i* rema9s aft] ! clean+ process1 is oxydiz$ by ! action ( ! air4 ,to p]fectly & completely extract ?is rema9+ small am\nt ( fat :i* does n h9d] ! subsequ5t dye+ op]ations1 is n advisable2 =1 x has be5 obs]v$ t 9 t case1 ! fea!rs become brittle1 & = ?is reason1 sc\r+ ) soap is pref]able to sc\r+ ) soda4 ,x has be5 obs]v$ t color$ matt] tak5 f ! animal body 9 ! c\rse ( "t loses its brilliancy ( color & becomes dull2 :ite fea!rs turn yell[i%1 ev5 if p]fectly protect$ aga9/ du/4 ,to prev5t ?is alt]ation1 ! blea*$ fea!rs are dy$ :ite1 or r blu$ or t9t$2 t is1 ! brilliancy ( ! :ite is height5$ & ! fa9t yell[i% t+e neutraliz$ by ! application ( a v light1 sc>cely p]ceptible t9t ( a complem5t>y color4 ,= ?is purpose1 = in/ance1 indigo c>m9e 7gre5i% :ite71 indigo c>m9e ) a v small addition ( ammoniacal co*9eal 7r$di% :ite71 indul9e or extract ( indigo 7blui% :ite71 or me?yl violet #f ,b4 7direct :ite71 are employ$1 & a few drops ( acid add$ to ! ba?1 ei!r sulphuric1 acetic or oxalic acid4 ,! acid1 h[ev]1 c be disp5s$ )1 z x sc>cely has any?+ to act ^u1 & z only a dim9utive am\nt ( x is employ$1 ! blu$ fea!rs are n r9s$ b imm$iately dri$ f ! blue-ba?4 ,! additions ( dye/uff to ba?s mu/ be made s small t !y d n affect a color+ ( ! fea!rs b only a fa9t t9t+4 ,r too little dye/uff may be add$1 :i* defect c at all times be correct$ by add+ a few drops m ( ! color+ solution1 ?an too mu*4 ,9 ! latt] case x w\ld become necess>y to blea* ! fea!rs aga9 & g ov] ! :ole process ( prep>+ ! raw mat]ial = dye+4 ,,black4 ,i4 ,,*rome ,,black4--,black be+ ! mo/ difficult color to produce1 z above rem>k$1 ! fea!rs require a specially c>eful prep>atory treatm5t 9 ord] to remove ev]y?+ t might int]f]e ) ! purity1 uni=mity & brilliancy ( ! color1 or cause less dy$1 dull spots & /reaks4 ,naturally gray fea!rs1 h[ev]1 ne$ n to be blea*$ or decoloriz$ b only c>eful treatm5t & att5tion4 ,! fea!rs are = tw5ty-f\r h\rs laid d[n 9 a solution ( twice _! weight ( calc9$ soda1 ammonia soda be+ pref]able = ?is purpose to ,lablanc soda 7old process soda71 !n tak5 up & c>efully r9s$ clean f ! alkal9e 9 w>m wat]1 or bett]1 9 two w>m wat]s4 ,9 ! case ( p>ticul>ly valuable fea!rs x is recomm5dable1 be=e lay+ !m d[n 9 ! soda solution1 to rub ! /a9s ( ! fea!rs (f ) a piece ( c>bonate ( ammonia or ) a l>ge soda cry/al4 ,aft] r9s+1 ! fea!rs are ent]$ = "o h\r1 at #agj ,f41 9 a ba? conta9+ =ty p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 *romate ( pota%1 =ty p] c5t4 copp]as1 & tw5ty p] c5t4 t>t>1 & sev]al times turn$ & agitat$ dur+ ! specifi$ p]iod :ile ! ent]+ temp]ature is ma9ta9$4 ,!n ! fea!rs are tak5 up1 & ! adh]+ liquid squeez$ out by h& or by roll+ !m ?r\gh a clo!s wr+] ) rubb] roll]4 ,9 ! meantime a logwood ba? ( m$ium conc5tration is prep>$ ei!r ) a fre% decoction or ) extract ( logwood & tw5ty p] c5t4 ,m>sailles soap dissolv$ 9 x4 ,! fea!rs are ent]$ 9 ?is ba? at h&-heat1 dilig5tly agitat$ = tw5ty or ?irty m9utes &1 if necess>y1 :ile ! temp]ature is rais$ to #bjj ,f41 laid d[n 9 ! ba? until ! correct %ade & a level dye are obta9$4 ,! fea!rs are !n lift$1 squeez$1 v ?or\ghly r9s$ 9 cold wat]1 pass$ ?r\gh />* & dri$ ) frequ5t %ak+1 respectively beat+ ^u ! bo>d or betwe5 ! h&s4 ,x occurs sometimes1 t ! /ems ( ! fea!rs are imp]fectly di$ & pres5t light br[n or gray places4 ,?is is attributable to insuffici5t sc\r+4 ,9 ?is case ! defective portions ( ! /ems mu/ be scrap$ ) a %>p p5knife & dy$ ov]4 ,?is op]ation1 h[ev]1 is difficult & requires mu* practice & a light h&1 z too mu* scrap+ removes ! horny glossy surface ( ! /em &1 :5 dy$ ov]1 ! only *ange effect$ is1 t a dull black m>k takes ! place ( ! discolor$ or br[n spot4 ,(t51 h[ev]1 ! defect c be rem$i$ by t\*+ ! imp]fect portions up ) a feeble alcoholic solution ( %ellac1 9 :i* "s nigros9e is dissolv$4 ,) prop]ly sc\r$ fea!rs ?is mi%ap does n occur4 ,ano!r tr\ble1 h[ev]1 :i* is n unfrequ5t ) blacks1 is t ! fea!rs are ov]-dy$ & become br[ni% black in/ead ( black4 ,b 9 ?is case ! rem$y is z simple z its occurr5ce is frequ5t2 a quick passage ?r\gh sulphuric acid dilut$ ) wat] to #b ,b4 /rips (f ! excessive dye & produces a good color4 ,besides1 ?is op]ation gives ! fea!rs a brilliant lu/re4 ,_m dy]s1 !re=e1 me?odically avail !mselves ( ?is effect ( sulphuric acid & delib]ately ov] dye _! fea!rs 7,see ,,iv bel[7 & !n apply ! sulphuric acid passage = ! purpose ( imp>t+ ! fea!rs t peculi> lu/re4 ,a passage ?r\gh a solution ( sodium *loride1 ( #b ,b4 /r5g?1 has ! same effect z a passage 9 sulphuric acid #b ,b4 ,= ?is purpose lay ! fea!rs d[n 9 ! w>m sodium *loride solution1 until ! black cotton /r+s ) :i* ! fea!rs h be5 ti$ toge!r1 z 9 ! beg9n+ describ$1 beg9 to turn gray4 ,!n take up ! fea!rs1 r9se !m v ?or\ghly 9 cold wat]1 dra91 />* & dry4 ,sodium *loride c be prep>$ 9 a simple way z foll[s3 rub "o-half p\nd fre% *loride ( lime 9 a porcela9 mort> ) a little wat] into a smoo? milk1 :i* p\r into a bucket1 dilute ) cold wat]1 & add1 "u /irr+1 ! solution ( "o p\nd ,glaub] salt2 let settle & use ! cle> liquid4 ,in/ead ( ,glaub] salt 7sodium sulphate71 soda cry/als 7sodium c>bonate7 may be us$2 ! latt]1 h[ev]1 is a little high] 9 price & r5d]s ! solution /rongly alkal9e4 ,,ii4 ,,iron ,,black4--,lay d[n ! fea!rs ov] night 9 a w>m ba?1 9 :i* "o hundr$ p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 soda cry/als h be5 dissolv$4 ,on ! foll[+ day take !m up1 squeeze !m out & lay !m d[n = two h\rs 9 a proportionally /rong solution ( c>bonate ( ammonia1 take !m up & r9se well 9 w>m wat]4 ,lay d[n = six h\rs ^u a ba? ( nitrate ( iron #aj ,b42 take up1 r9se1 & dye at #agj ,f4 ) ! decoction ( t5 p] c5t4 logwood 9 :i* five p] c5t4 ,m>seilles soap has be5 dissolv$4 ,if a dead black is want$1 add "s decoction ( qu]citron or turm]ic to ! ba?4 ,! desir$ dep? be+ obta9$1 lift1 r9se1 />* & dry4 ,9 case ! color is ov]-dy$1 /rip ) sodium *loride 7or sulphuric acid7 #b ,b41 z above describ$1 dra91 squeeze & dry4 ,,iii4 ,,logwood ,,black4--,sc\r & r9se ! fea!rs well4 ,prep>e a ba? ) ?ree p] c5t41 ( ! weight ( fea!rs1 c>bonate ( lime1 six p] c5t4 blue /one1 & five p] c5t4 t>t>4 ,ent] ! fea!rs at #agj ,f41 ma9ta9 ?is temp]ature = "o h\r2 !n let x g d[n1 b leave ! fea!rs 9 ! ba? = six h\rs long]1 agitat+ !m frequ5tly dur+ t "t4 ,take !m up1 dra9 & squeeze1 or c5trifugate1 & ent] a h&w>m ba? conta9+ "s decoction ( logwood1 to :i* "s decoction ( fu/ic is add$4 ,"w = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes1 !n raise ! temp]ature to ne>ly boil+ heat4 ,cont9ue add+ decoction ( logwood1 until a n\ri%$ black is obta9$4 ,?is dye be+ h>d to correct by ! ord9>y means1 ! additions ( logwood decoction mu/ be made ) caution t[>ds ! end ( ! op]ation1 9 ord] to prev5t ov]-dye+4 ,if a br[ni% t\* is desir$1 add "s m decoction ( fu/ic :5 ! black is ne>ly done4 ,!n lift1 r9se1 />* & dry z usual "u cont9ual agitation1 beat+ & %ak+ ( ! fea!rs4 ,?is *rome black is sup]ior to iron black1 because x imp>ts1 to ! o/ri* fea!rs1 m lu/re4 ,,iv4 ,:atev] k9d ( fea!rs are to be dy$1 :ite1 grays or old blacks1 wa% !m p]fectly clean 9 two or ?ree w>m soap ba?s & remove ! soap by r9s+ 9 two or ?ree w>m & sev]al cold wat]s4 ,color$ fea!rs :i* are to be r$y$ blacks mu/ be /ripp$ ( _! color z mu* z possible by wa%+ 9 hot soap to :i* "s ammonia is add$1 :]eupon ?is mu/ be r9s$ 9 sev]al wat]s absolutely cle> f soap & alkali2 x is an errone\s notion to neutralize ! la/ trace ( alkali :i* may rema91 by a passage ?r\gh a feeble acid ba?4 ,! fea!rs ?us prep>$ = dye+1 make a ba? ( two p>ts nitrate ( iron to "o "p hot wat] at #agj ,f41 ent] ! fea!rs1 "w !m ?r\gh a few times1 & !n lay !m d[n 9 ! ba? = twelve h\rs 7ov] night74 ,!n lift & r9se ! fea!rs 9 sev]al 7?ree or f\r7 cold wat]s ,prep>e a pretty /rong decoction ( logwood & fu/ic1 = :i* take two p>ts ( ! =m] to "o "p ( ! latt]2 let ! temp]ature g d[n to ab\t #bjh-baj ,f41 :5 ent] ! fea!rs & ma9ta9 t temp]ature = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes4 ,!n %ut (f ! /eam or remove ! dye-vessel f ! fire1 z ! case may be1 & let ! fea!rs cool 9 ! ba?4 ,:5 cold take !m out1 prep>e a fre% ba? ( logwood & fu/ic l ! fir/1 ent] ! fea!rs at #bjh-baj ,f41 aft] fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes add ab\t a teaspoonful ( copp]as = "o gallon ( wat]1 & leave ! fea!rs 9 ! ba? = six or eight h\rs long]2 !n lift & r9se 9 sev]al cold wat]s4 ,! fea!rs are at ?is /age black ) a /rong br[n t\* :i* is remov$ by a clean+ ba? ( ,eau de ,javelle 7sodium *loride74 ,! latt] is prep>$ by rubb+ "o-qu>t] p\nd *loride ( lime to a smoo? milk ) a little cold wat] 79 a porcela9 or a m>ble mort>7 & add+ ?is milk to ! solution ( "o-half p\nd ,glaub] salt 9 ?ree p>ts wat]4 ,aft] good /irr+ ! mixture is !n all[$ to settle1 :5 ! cle> solution is p\r$ (f & put up = use 9 well /opp]$ bottles4 ,( ?is liquid s mu* is add$ to a bas9 or pan full ( w>m wat] t x gives a slipp]y feel betwe5 ! f+]s1 simil> to t ( a solution ( soda4 ,9 ?is ba? ! fea!rs are agitat$ = six or eight m9utes1 or until ! liquid has assum$ a yell[i% color4 ,!n ! fea!rs are tak5 out1 r9se 9 two or ?ree w>m wat]s1 pass$ ?r\gh raw />*1 press$ out betwe5 sev]al laps ( a clean piece ( musl91 & dri$ ei!r by rubb+ !m 9 pulv]iz$ & sift$ potato />* or by %ak+ !m be=e an op5 fire or gas-flame4 ,! nitrate ( iron ba? c be pres]v$ & us$ = ! same purpose = eight or t5 days1 b ! fir/ logwood ba? becomes useless & is let out4 ,z above obs]v$ 7,i7 sulphuric acid c also be employ$ = correct+ ! ov]-dy$ fea!rs & r$uc+ t br[ni% color to a pure lu/r\s black1 b a mu* %ort] passage is giv53 ! fea!rs are ent]$ by s+le /r+s1 well op5$1 agitat$ 9 ! sulphuric acid ba? = a few seconds1 & imm$iately r9s$4 ,:]e week "w is done1 x is advisable to h two m5 employ$ at ?is op]ation1 "o ( :om passes ! fea!rs 9 ! acid ba? & h&s !m ov] to ! o!r man = r9s+4 ,,contra/s ,,& ,,%ad+s1 ,,or ,,ombrees4 ,fa%ion & fancy sometimes requires ! dy] ( o/ri* fea!rs to dye ^u "o fea!r two1 or ev5 ?ree contra/+ colors1 or diff]5t %ades ( ! same color1 t is1 ! tips ( ! fea!rs 9 ano!r color or %ade ?an t ( ! l[] "p ( ! fea!r4 ,g5]ally 9 ^! comb9ations ! tip is dy$ ! light] color or %ade1 & ! l[] "p consid]ably deep] or 9 a heavi] color4 ,v popul> comb9ations are3 ! tip light blue & ! bottom br[n1 ! tip rose & ! l[] "p bordeaux1 ! tip light orange or d>k yell[ & ! l[] "p g>net br[n1 tip rose ) olive bottom "p1 or ev5 ?ree colors1 su* z ! tip rose1 ! "p bel[ x m$ium olive gre51 & ! l[e/ "p deep violet4 ,t su* comb9ations are v h&some _c be ass]t$2 b fa%ion dictates1 & fancy sometimes pref]s oddity to beauty4 ,m rational are at any rate ! ombres1 or comb9ations ( two or ?ree %ades ( ! same color ^u "o fea!r4 ,! op]ation is ! same = bo? /yles2 b contra/s are g5]ally dy$ only ^u s+le fea!rs1 :ile ombres1 be+ 9 great] dem&1 are dy$ by /r+s or ev5 9 great] lots4 ,! fea!rs be+ sc\r$ & r9s$ z usual1 are fir/ dy$ :olly 9 ! lighte/ color or %ade to be produc$1 accord+ to recipe1 say light blue = ! tip1 & dri$4 ,!n wrap ! top1 z f> z x is to be light blue1 9 pap] 7"s dy]s use = ?is purpose oil$ or wax$ pap]7 & tie ! pap] firmly1 b n s h>d z to injure ! fea!r1 ) a /r+1 n s loosely z to all[ ! pap] envelope to slip out ( place dur+ ! manipulation4 ,!n1 hold+ ! fea!rs by ! top1 dip !m into ! boil+ hot ba? = ! o!r color1 or %ade1 to be dy$1 b only s deep t ! pap] j t\*es ! surface ( ! dye-liquid4 ,?is me?od is ! safe/ = le>n]s or new beg9n]s4 ,= m exp]i5c$ work]s x is unnecess>y to use ! pap] wrapp+2 !y simply fir/ dye ! light bottom %ade1 dry or n1 accord+ to ! *>act]s ( ! two colors 7= %ad+s1 half-dry fea!rs1 t is1 dra9$ & squeez$ out1 are r pref]able71 & loosely hold !m 9 ! ba? = ! second color1 or deep] %ade4 ,!y h x !reby 9 _! p[] to effect a m gradual transition f "o color or %ade to ! o!r4 ,z ! color becomes deep]1 ! long] ! fea!r is imm]s$ 9 ! ba?1 x is pla9 t ! dy] c easily produce ^u "o fea!r a complete graduat$ scale ( %ades4 ,ea* "t1 aft] a %ade has be5 dy$ to ! requir$ dep?1 ! fea!rs are r9s$ 9 cold wat] & "s m dye/uff solution add$ to ! ba?4 ,^! additions require good judgm5t1 because too mu* dye/uff add$ w\ld cause an abrupt1 dull contra/ in/ead ( a desirable gradual %ak+ (f1 or transition f "o %ade to ! o!r4 ,!re ought only a little m dye/uff be add$ ea* "t1 ?an has be5 absorb$ f ! ba? by dye+ ! prec$+ %ade4 ,if pap] wrapp+s are us$1 !y mu/ naturally be unti$ = r9s+ & replac$ by long] pieces be=e ent]+ ! ba? = ! foll[+ d>k] %ade4 ,aft] r9s+ ! fea!rs mu/ always be well squeez$ out4 ,if two colors are to be dy$1 = in/ance light blue tip ) br[n l[] "p1 dye fir/ ! :ole fea!r light blue1 r9se1 dry1 tie up ! tip 9 pap]1 & dye ! l[] half br[n4 ,x ne$s n to be m5tion$ t = dye+ two or ?ree contra/+ colors ^u "o fea!r only su* dyes mu/ be *os5 z c s]ve = bottom+ & topp+ "o ano!r )\t mat]ially alt]+ ! "* ( ! topp+ color4 ,,edg+s ,,or ,,bord]s4 ,= ?is /yle ( fea!r dye+1 use fea!rs ( good quality1 ) wide & well develop$ vanes4 ,!y are dy$ 9 two colors & %ades only1 pres5t+ "o color1 mo/ly ( a light %ade1 or a :ite black on bo? sides along ! /ems1 :ile ! out] edges = ! vanes1 or ends ( ! fibres1 are dy$ 9 a diff]5t color or d>k] %ade4 ,!y make a p>ticul>ly h&some effect :5 curl$ ov] ! /em1 sett+ (f ! edges 9 a f9e contra/ aga9/ ! black %[+ ?r\gh ! curls4 ,to produce edg+s an oval pan1 z describ$ 9 ! beg9n+1 or o!r dye-vessel ( great] l5g? ?an ! fea!rs1 & ?ree or f\r in*es deep mu/ be us$4 ,! well sc\r$1 respectively blea*$1 & r9s$ fea!rs are fir/ dy$ ! color = ! middle "p1 z usual on /r+s4 ,aft] r9s+ & dry+ !y are tak5 (f f ! /r+s & edg$ s+ly4 ,= ?is purpose prep>e ! dye-ba? = ! edg+ color1 heat to ! prop] temp]ature1 take ! tip & quill respectively betwe5 ! =e-f+] & ! ?umb ( bo? h&s1 dip ! fea!rs edgewise1 t is1 ) ! ends ( ! fibres on "o side ( ! /em1 or ! edge ( ! vane only1 into ! dye-ba? z deep z ! edg+ is to be wide1 & move ! fea!r 9 ?is position horizontally =w>d & backw>d 9 ! ba? until ! %ade is obta9$4 ,!n place ! fea!r betwe5 sev]al laps ( clean dry musl91 squeeze x out by pass+ ! h& ov] x1 & dye ! o!r edge 9 ! same mann] z ! fir/4 ,f9ally r9se1 />* & dry ! fea!r z usual4 ,9 ?is connection a *emical reaction is wor?y ( m5tion1 :i* 0 discov]$ ab\t two ye>s ago by an accid5t1 & may be advantage\sly employ$ = ! production ( edg+s ^u o/ri* fea!rs1 if fur!r develop$ by exp]im5ts4 ,9 a l>ge fea!r-dye+ e/abli%m5t1 9 ,b]l91 a %eet ( pap] :i* _h be5 wett$ ) ammonia1 & _h become dry1 _h be5 left on a "w-table1 :5 "o ( ! employees1 :o 0 h&l+ a lot ( fea!rs fre%ly dy$ ) me?yl violet1 inadv]t5tly put "o ( ! fea!rs1 :i* 0 /ill moi/1 ^u ! impregnat$ pap]4 ,aft] a :ile1 :5 ! fea!r 0 pick$ up1 x 0 f\nd t ! violet1 all r\nd ! edge ( ! fea!r1 _h turn$ brilliant gre51 produc+ a v pleas+ effect4 ,x is rational to suppose t ) mix$ colors1 9 ^: composition me?yl violet l>gely ent]s1 simil> effects c be produc$ by ! action ( ammonia2 & probably ! same is ! case ) o!r anil9e dye/uffs4 ,,gild+ ,,& ,,silv]+4 ,gild$ & silv]$ o/ri* fea!rs are b seldom 9 dem&1 & !n only = gr& ev5+ dresses or /age effects1 & = %ort seasons1 :i* g5]ally return f> betwe54 ,_! production is by no means a dye+ process1 b r an op]ation ( surface ornam5tation1 /ill ! dy] is sometimes reque/$ to p]=m x4 ,:ile goose fea!rs & o!r fea!rs ( small value are :olly gild$ or silv]$1 ! gild+ ( o/ri* fea!rs consi/s *iefly 9 a spr9kl+ ) metallic dots1 or sometimes 9 an edg+1 or is only appli$ to ! tip ( ! fea!rs1 :i*1 f ! nature ( ! op]ation1 are treat$ s+ly4 ,su* ornam5t$ fea!rs1 :ite z well z dy$1 be+ only us$ = %ort p]iods1 a p]man5t fixation ( ! gold or silv] ^u !m is n requir$1 b r undesirable1 z !y w soon be r$y$ = o!r uses4 ,= gild+1 respectively silv]+1 a suffici5tly adhesive solution ( possibly colorless gum arabic is prep>$ & di/ribut$ by h&1 & by means ( a f9e hair-bru%1 9 small] or l>g] dots1 z requir$1 ov] ! upp] side ( ! fea!r or along ! edges1 & be=e ! gum solution becomes dry1 spr9kl$ ov] ) f9ely divid$ gold-leaf or silv]-leaf4 ,! fea!r is !n turn$ ov]1 giv5 a few light taps ) ! h& to remove ! loose du/ ( metal1 & vigor\sly %ak51 p>tly to prev5t ! fibres f /ick+ toge!r1 p>tly to remove ! rema9+ loosely adh]+ p>ticles ( metal4 ,! op]ation mu/ be p]=m$ z rapidly z possible to prev5t ! gum solution f dry+ be=e ! metallic du/ is %ak5 (f4 ,! small] ! gum-dots are made1 ! quick] mu/ ! "w be done1 b ! less is ! dang] ( ! fibres be+ pa/$ toge!r1 & ! m elegant ! appe>ance ( ! fea!r4 ,! dots or spangles are made ( diff]5t %apes1 9 little circles or squ>es1 & sometimes arrang$ s z to =m angul> designs1 accord+ to ta/e & skill ( ! op]ator4 ,ano!r v pretty1 sc>cely m p]man5t1 b m frequ5tly appli$ ornam5tation ( o/ri* fea!rs1 is ! foll[+4 ,,fro/+4 ,= ?is purpose ! fea!rs are fir/ dy$ 9 a light or m$ium %ade ( any color1 ! effect ( fro/+ fea!rs ( a d>k color be+ r unfavorable4 ,! fea!rs are !n1 aft] dry+1 cov]$ on ! upp] side ) a solution ( cle> gum arabic1 z = gild+1 b m closely1 or may ev5 be entirely bru%$ ov] ) ! gum solution1 & are !n1 be=e ! gum dries1 spr9kl$ ov] ) f9ely gr\nd :ite glass1 or mica1 ! latt] giv+ ! appe>ance ( fro/$ silv]4 ,! glass p[d] or mica p[d] is !n quickly & vigor\sly %ak5 (f1 to op5 ! fibres & flues z mu* z possible1 :ile dry+4 ,f9ally1 to complete ! op5+ ( ! fibres1 ! fea!rs are /eam$ at ! "u side1 & %ak5 9 ! air until op5 & dry4 ,great c>e is requir$ 9 curl+ gild$ or fro/$ fea!rs1 t ! metal or glass p[d] is n rubb$ (f 9 pass+ ! fibres ( ! vane ov] ! curl+-knife4 ,?is op]ation be+ extremely difficult & dang]\s1 ! use ( a curl+-iron1 l t us$ by hair-dress]s1 is pref]able to t ( ! knife4 ,! iron is mod]ately heat$1 s z n to s+e ! fea!rs2 !n1 beg9n+ at ! l[] end ( ! fea!r1 a "p ( ! fibres on "o side ( ! /em are tak5 by _! ends betwe5 ! %anks ( ! iron1 ! latt] clos$ & ! fibres w\nd d[nw>ds ar\nd x1 ! iron be+ c>ri$ on ! "u side ( ! fea!r t[>ds ! /em4 ,!n fir/ "o side ( ! vane is successively curl$ f ! quill up to ! tip1 :5 ! same op]ation is repeat$ ^u ! o!r half ( ! fea!r4 ,if1 9 ?is mann]1 ! fea!r %\ld be curl$ too /rongly1 ! fibres are tak5 betwe5 ! %anks ( ! w>m curl+-iron at ! /em & simply drawn ?r\gh ! iron4 ,num]\s o/ri* fea!r dy]s & dress]s use ! curl+-iron altoge!r1 in/ead ( ! knife2 ! only difficulty = ! beg9n] is to get ! prop] heat1 :i*1 h[ev]1 is soon le>n$4 ,v pretty effects are also obta9$ by dye+ ! fea!rs a light %ade ( color1 dry+1 gumm+ & spr9kl+ !m ) ei!r p[d]$ black glass or jet4 ,,r5ovat+ ,,fea!rs4 ,:ite o/ri* fea!rs :i*1 by long exposure to ! %[-w9d[1 or by ly+ 9 /ore = a protract$ "t1 h lo/ _! :it5ess & turn$ yell[1 & dy$ fea!rs :i*1 f ! same causes1 h become dirty1 pale & discolor$1 c be re/or$ to _! =m] beauty by wa%+1 respectively r$ye+1 z foll[s3 ,i4 ,a wa%+ process1 :i* is ord9>ily only appli$ to :ite fea!rs :i* h become yell[1 is z foll[s3 ,prep>e a ba? ( two gallons ( wat] at #ade;,f41 to :i* add half a gallon ( liquid ammonia 7spirits ( sal ammoniac1 ammonia wat]72 ent] ! fea!rs1 "w !m once well ?r\gh ) ! h&s1 & lay !m d[n 9 ! ba? ov] night4 ,on ! foll[+ day take !m up1 wa% !m once ?r\gh a soap-ba? at #ade;,f41 pass !m aga9 ?r\gh ! fir/ ammoniacal ba?1 & r9se well & let !m dra94 ,!n prep>e a ba? ( cold wat]1 to :i* add s mu* ( a cle> solution ( me?yl violet #f ,b41 t a :ite *9a plate held ab\t a foot bel[ ! surface ( ! wat]1 appe>s ) a fa9t blui% t9t1 or su* a blue tone z is desir$2 & add to ! ba? s mu* sulphur\s acid1 t x gives ! liquid a well def9$ odor4 ,:5 ! sulphur\s acid mixes ) ! t9t$ liquid1 ! violet color ( ! latt] disappe>s & *anges to a gre5i% t9t1 :i*1 h[ev]1 turns aga9 to blue ^u ! fea!rs :5 !y are aft]w>ds expos$ to ! action ( ! air4 ,! fea!rs are !n pass$1 s+ly1 if possible1 ?r\gh ! blue-ba?1 well dra9$1 c5trifugat$ or :izz$1 />*$ & dri$ z usual4 ,color$ fea!rs :i* h lo/ _! fre%ness1 & are to be r$y$1 are simply wa%$ clean ) soap & r9s$1 or !y are /ripp$ ( _! color1 z mu* z possible1 ) soap & oxalic acid1 or blea*$ ) p]oxyd ( hydrog51 z describ$ 9 ! beg9n+2 :]eupon !y are dy$ & treat$ l blea*$ new fea!rs1 always tak+ into consid]ation1 h[ev]1 :at ( ! old color may rema9 ^u ! fea!rs1 may be utilizable z a bottom = ! new color1 or ev5 z a compon5t ( x1 = in/ance1 9 ! case ( _m modes & sev]al br[ns4 ,,ii4 ,ano!r me?od ( r5ovat+ o/ri* fea!rs pres5ts ! advantages t x is execut$ )\t ! application ( heat1 t x is a simple clean+ process :i* attacks no color1 & t x leaves ! curl+ ( ! fea!rs intact1 :i* is unavoidably tak5 out ( !m by wa%+ ) w>m wat] & soap1 or any o!r alkal9e det]g5t sub/ance4 ,x is1 !re=e1 only appli$ to fea!rs :i* h lo/ _! purity ( color by exposure1 & ^: curl+ is to be pres]v$1 or is wor?y ( pres]v+4 ,x is1 9 "p1 ! same process :i* is kn[n z dry wa%+ among sc\r]s & dy]s ( g>m5ts1 & c be appli$ to fea!rs ( any color & %ade1 :ite & ev5 black1 )\t exception4 ,= ?is op]ation fill a bas9 or small wood5 h&-tub ) b5z5e1 add a h&ful or two ( potato fl\r 7sift$ potato />*71 ent] ! fea!rs & rub !m well ?r\gh ) ! />* until clean2 !n squeeze !n out by h& & press betwe5 musl91 f9ally :iz or %ake !m 9 ! air until dry4 ,?is process is p>tly *emical1 9 s f> z ! b5z5e loos5s ! du/ & o!r impurities :i* h settl$ ^u ! fea!rs1 p>tly me*anical1 z ! num]\s f9e p>ticles ( ! potato />*1 :i* d n dissolve 9 b5z5e z soap does 9 wat]1 rub ^! impurities (f f ! fea!r4 ,by ! comb9$ action ( ! b5z5e & />*1 & ! friction appli$1 ! fea!rs are n only clean$1 b ! flues completely op5$1 s t ! fea!r ?us treat$ looks p]fectly l new4 ,a rem>kable feature ( ?is process is t ! />* c>ries ne>ly all ! impurities d[n ) itself to ! bottom ( ! wa%-bas91 & becomes soil$1 :ile ! b5z5e takes up e little ( !m1 & c1 !re=e1 aft] settl+1 be p\r$ (f f ! />* s$im5t1 & c be us$ sev]al times be=e x ne$s to be purifi$ or ev5tually becomes unfit = use4 ,9 us+ b5z5e1 :i* is a highly combu/ible sub/ance1 ! utmo/ precaution mu/ be obs]v$ t no op5 flame or fire be 9 ! "w-room1 nei!r op5 lamps nor a fire 9 ! /ove burn+4 ,ev5 doors lead+ to adjo9+ rooms1 :]e lights or fires are burn+1 ought to be kept clos$ :ile work+ ) b5z5e1 because ! b5z5e vapors1 :i* may be c>ri$ to ! flame by a draft ( air1 w\ld inevitably ignite & cause an explosion & fire4 ,occurr5ces ( ?is k9d h be5 n unfrequ5tly obs]v$4 ,fea!rs :i* h be5 clean$ by ?is process1 z well z new fea!rs1 may be dy$ by ! foll[+ process4 ,,dye+ ,,9 ,,! ,,cold ,,way4 ,?is process is a real dye+ process1 z well z a r5ovat+ process1 bo?1 h[ev]1 to a limit$ ext5t1 inasmu* z x c be appli$ only to :ite fea!rs or to su* z are dy$ ) light & m$ium %ades ( c]ta9 colors :i* are to be fre%5$ up2 b x does n answ] = d>k colors4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 extremely simple & easy to execute2 besides1 almo/ in/antane\s1 & !re=e ( great utility :]e rapid "w is requir$1 because x leaves ! fea!rs p]fectly 9 %ape1 l ! b5z5e wa%+ process1 & does n affect ! curl+ ( ! fea!r1 if !re is su*4 ,old fea!rs :i* 7 already dy$ cream1 rose1 salmon1 light blue1 light gray1 light gre51 sea gre51 gold5 yell[1 heliotrope or beige1 c be r$y$ 9 ! same colors1 b mu/ previ\sly be wa%$ ) b5z5e2 new :ite fea!rs d n require su* wa%+4 ,= ?is me?od ( dye+1 anil9e dye/uffs soluble 9 alcohol are us$1 viz43 = ,cream1 ,curcum9e or ,anil9e ,orange1 ,rose1 ,eos9e or ,ponceau1 ,salmon1 ,curcum9e & ,eos9e1 ,light ,blue1 ,wat] ,blue & ,me?yl5e ,blue1 ,gray1 ,nigros9e1 ,sea-gre51 ,mala*ite ,gre51 ,gold5 ,yell[1 ,orange & ,fa/ ,br[n1 ,heliotrope1 ,me?yl violet #f ,b41 ,beige1 ,me?yl5e ,blue1 ,curcum9e & ,fa/ ,br[n1 mix$ accord+ to tone & %ade4 ,op]ate z foll[s3 ,fill a :ite bas9 ) a suffici5t quantity ( alcohol to completely wet ! fea!rs 9 x2 add1 accord+ to %ade1 a small] or great] quantity ( ! cle> alcoholic solution ( ! requir$ dye/uff1 or mixture ( dye/uffs1 pass ! fea!rs s+ly1 )\t previ\sly wett+ !m1 ?ree or f\r times ?r\gh ! alcohol ba?2 !n press !m out betwe5 clean musl91 put a few h&fuls ( sift$ potato />* ^u a clean %eet ( pap]1 & rub ! fea!rs ) x until ?or\ghly dry2 f9ally1 %ake out ! />*4 ,,recapitulation ,,( ,,g5]al ,,rules4 ,at all times h ! fea!rs1 :i* are to be dy$1 sc\r$ well1 t is1 wa%$ clean f all ext]nally adh]+ impurities1 fat1 etc42 naturally color$ fea!rs blea*$ = all light & m$ium %ades to be dy$ ^u !m1 & r9s$ p]fectly clean f ! sc\r+ or blea*+ ba?1 fir/ 9 two or ?ree w>m wat]s & !n 9 cold wat]4 ,on tak+ ! fea!rs f any ba?1 always squeeze ! liquid out fir/ by draw+ ! fea!rs ?r\gh ! h& clos$ ^u !m1 !n by plac+ !m /raight betwe5 sev]al laps ( clean dry musl9 & repeat$ly pass+ ! h& ) q a sm>t pressure ov] x4 ,nev] transf] ! fea!rs1 9 any case1 f "o ba? to ano!r 9 a wet1 b 9 a moi/ condition1 or ne>ly dry4 ,nev] all[ ! fea!rs to become dry 9 ! c\rse ( op]ations4 ,if x is necess>y to int]rupt "w1 or to put fea!rs to "o side = fur!r treatm5t1 dry !m prop]ly by fir/ pass+ !m ?r\gh a ba? ( raw />*1 9 ord] to h ! flues at all times z well op5$ z possible4 ,9 no case let ! temp]ature ( a ba?1 9 :i* fea!rs are treat$1 rise to actual boil+1 al?\gh = "s dye/uffs a temp]ature ne> ! boil+ po9t is requir$ to make !m dye up1 to become level or to fix !m4 ,9 e in/ance1 :]e an acid or acid salt is employ$1 ei!r 9 a sep>ate mordant+ or fix+ ba?1 or z a compon5t ( ! dyeba?1 r9se well be=e dry+4 ,:5 sulphuric acid is us$ 9 ! composition ( a ba?1 add only s mu* ( x z to give ! wat] a v slight1 sc>cely p]ceptible acid ta/e4 ,al?\gh "s artificial dye/uffs dye up )\t an addition ( acid to ! dye ba? 7basic dye/uffs71 ! addition ( sulphuric acid1 9 a v small quantity1 to ! dye-ba? is advantage\s1 r5d]+ ! colors bright] & also fa/]4 ,:5 bisulphate ( soda is employ$1 x is n necess>y to also add sulphuric acid to ! dye-ba?2 if x is add$1 h[ev]1 x mu/ only be 9 a v small quantity2 c>eful r9s+ 9 sev]al w>m & cold wat]s aft] dye+ is requir$4 ,:5 alum alone is us$ )\t any o!r addition z mordant1 sulphuric acid may be add$1 b only 9 ! proportion ( "o t5? or1 at ! mo/1 up to "o fif? ( ! weight ( alum1 & c>eful r9s+ 9 sev]al w>m & cold wat]s is ! m indisp5sably requir$ ! m acid has be5 employ$4 ,all solutions ( dye/uffs1 z well z ( *emicals1 ought to be c>efully filt]$1 & decoctions ( woods1 etc41 /ra9$ be=e add+ !m to ! ba?2 nev] add dye/uffs1 drugs or *emicals 9 sub/ance to any ba?1 9 ord] to prev5t solid p>ticles f settl+ ^u ! fea!rs4 ,nev] add all ! dye/uff probably requir$ or prescrib$ by a recipe to ! dye-ba? at "o "t1 b 9 sev]al small quantities1 ea* "t aft] tak+ up ! fea!rs1 /ir ! ba? aft] mak+ ! addition1 re-ent] ! fea!rs & wat* ! progress ( ! dye+ c>efully2 :5 approa*+ ! desir$ %ade1 add ! dye/uff v cauti\sly1 by drops if necess>y1 p>ticul>ly ) mix$ colors1 su* z modes4 ,sample 9 prop] "t1 & take n a :ole fea!r = x1 b pull (f two or ?ree fibres f ! l[] "p ( a fea!r1 dry !m quickly by squeez+ betwe5 dry musl91 mat*1 correct ! ba? & f9i% dye+4 ,:ile dry+ keep ! fea!rs z mu* z possible 9 con/ant motion1 %ake & beat !m4 ,d n int]rupt op]ations1 if x c be avoid$1 b d ! "w rapidly & cont9u\sly1 )\t paus+4 ,keep e ut5sil scrupul\sly clean4 ,,! ,,end4 ,,cont5ts4 ,,page4 ,preface i ,gr[? ( ! ,o/ri* ,fea!r ,trade1 etc4 #a ,! ,bird1 ,its ,plumage & ,habits #c ,sket* ( ,dye/uffs1 etc4 #e ,logwood #e ,turm]ic #g ,bi*romate ( ,pota% #g ,ar*il #h ,safran9e #aj ,oxalic ,acid #aa ,indigo ,blue #aa ,sulphuric ,acid #ab ,copp]as #ac ,bism>ck ,br[n #ad ,conc5trat$ ,cotton ,blue #ad ,rocel9e #ae ,recipes = ,dye+ #af ,h9ts ab\t ! ,dye-h\se #he ,miscellane\s ,in=mation #hh ,wa%+ ,raw ,/ock #ia ,%ad+ #id ,p>+1 ,/eam+ & ,curl+ #ie ,note ( ! ,publi%] #ii ,,index ,,to ,,recipes4 ,b4 ,,page4 ,,beige #fb ,,black #ec ,,blea*+ ,,light ,,colors ,,:ite #ah ,,blea*+ ,,natural ,,grays ,,or ,,blacks ,,:ite #hb ,,blue1 ,,army #ei ,,blue1 ,,electric #fe ,,blue1 ,,g5d>me #eg ,,blue1 ,,light #ba ,,blue1 ,,m$ium #fg ,,blue1 ,,navy #ca ,,bronze #gd ,,br[n1 ,,bism>ck #bh ,,br[n1 ,,m$ium #ff ,,br[n1 ,,olive #ha ,,br[n1 ,,seal #bi ,c4 ,,c>d9al #cc ,,*ocolate #ge ,,c(fee #gi ,,corn #fd ,,cream #be ,d4 ,,drab1 ,,felt #df ,,drab1 ,,pla9 #gh ,e4 ,,ecru #bc ,g4 ,,g>net #dj ,,gray1 ,,silv] #bf ,,gre51 ,,bottle #dc ,,gre51 ,,m$ium #fa ,,gre51 ,,pea #hj ,l4 ,,lav5d] #ch ,,lemon #eb ,,lilac #ef ,m4 ,,mag5ta #fi ,,m>oon #ea ,,moss #gf ,o4 ,,old-,,gold #ci ,,olive #cf ,,orange #dh ,p4 ,,p9k1 ,,light #bj ,,plum #ce ,,purple #fj ,s4 ,,salmon #ga ,,sc>let #ej ,,sea-,,foam #gj ,,slate #dg ,,/eel #de ,,/one #gc ,,/rawb]ry1 ,,cru%$ #cd ,t4 ,,t]ra ,,cotta #db ,,trileul #eh ,w4 ,,:ite #af ,,index ,,to ,,samples4 ,b4 ,,page4 ,,beige #cd;a ,,black #gj;a ,,blue1 ,,army #df;a ,,blue1 ,,electric #gj;a ,,blue1 ,,g5d>me #dj;a ,,blue1 ,,light #bf;a ,,blue1 ,,m$ium #bd;a ,,blue1 ,,navy #fd;a ,,bronze #fd;a ,,br[n1 ,,bism>ck #gf;a ,,br[n1 ,,m$ium #hb;a ,,br[n1 ,,olive #eb;a ,,br[n1 ,,seal #gf;a ,c4 ,,c>d9al #hb;a ,,*ocolate #cd;a ,,c(fee #eb;a ,,corn #cd;a ,,cream #bf;a ,d4 ,,drab1 ,,felt #dj;a ,,drab1 ,,pla9 #eh;a ,e4 ,,ecru #cj;a ,g4 ,,g>net #dj;a ,,gray1 ,,silv] #cj;a ,,gre51 ,,bottle #eb;a ,,gre51 ,,m$ium #hb;a ,,gre51 ,,pea #fd;a ,l4 ,,lav5d] #bf;a ,,lemon #bj;a ,,lilac #bj;a ,m4 ,,mag5ta #fd;a ,,m>oon #df;a ,,moss #gj;a ,o4 ,,old-,,gold #hb;a ,,olive #eh;a ,,orange #gf;a ,p4 ,,p9k1 ,,light #bj;a ,,plum #eh;a ,,purple #df;a ,s4 ,,salmon #bf;a ,,sc>let #gj;a ,,sea-,,foam #cj;a ,,slate #dj;a ,,/eel #df;a ,,/one #eb;a ,,/rawb]ry1 ,,cru%$ #gf;a ,t4 ,,t]ra ,,cotta #eh;a ,,trileul #cj;a ,w4 ,,:ite #bj;a ,,cont5ts ,,( ,,app5dix4 ,,page4 ,g5]al ,rem>ks #ajc ,ut5sils #ajg ,prep>ation ( ,fea!rs #ajg ,clean+1 ,blea*+1 etc4 #aji ,dry+ or ,/>*+ #aaa ,blea*+ or ,decoloriz+ ,natural ,grays #aab ,p]oxyd ( ,hydrog5 #aad ,light ,blue #aae ,navy ,blue #aag ,g5d>me ,blue #aai ,plum or ,prune #aai ,light ,yell[ #aba ,m$ium ,yell[ #aba ,d>k ,yell[ #abb ,gold5 ,yell[ #abc ,old-,gold #abd ,gray #abe ,pe>l ,gray #abf ,silv] ,gray #abf ,br[n #abg ,light ,br[n #abi ,ru/ ,br[n #acj ,r$ ,br[n #acj ,c(fee ,br[n #aca ,puce #acb ,fawn #acc ,*e/nut ,br[n #acc ,havanna #acd ,mu%room #ace ,light ,drab #acf ,beige #acg ,modes #ach ,res$a #adj ,ord9>y ,gre5 #ada ,light ,gre5 #adb ,moss ,gre5 #adc ,bog ,gre5 #adc ,grass ,gre5 #add ,rose #adf ,r$ #adg ,fa/ ,aliz>9e ,r$ #adg ,sc>let #adh ,ponceau #aej ,bordeaux #aea ,r$ ,g>net #aeb ,br[n ,g>net #aeb ,ruby #aec ,salmon #aec ,am>an? #aed ,bronze #aee ,olive #aef ,violet #aeh ,heliotrope & ,lilac #aei ,cream #afj ,:ite & ,black #afa ,:ite #afd ,black #aff ,contra/s1 ,%ad+s1 etc4 #agc ,edg+ or ,bord]s #agf ,gild+ & ,silv]+ #agh ,fro/+ #ahj ,r5ovat+ ,fea!rs #ahb ,dye+ 9 ! ,cold ,way #ahf ,recapitulation ( ,g5]al ,rules #ahg ,,specialties ,,= ,,fea!r ,,& ,,silk ,,dy]s ,,ph4 ,h4 ,,k>*] ,,co41 #ee ,,c$> ,,/41 ,,new ,,york1 ,sole ,ag5t = ,,gilli>d1 ,p4 ,,monnet & ,,c>ti]',s ,,fr5* ,,anil9e ,,dyes ,,import]s ,,( ,,dye/uffs1 ,,extracts1 ,,*emicals1 c4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,e/abli%$ #ahfa ,,h5ry ,a4 ,,g\ld ,,co4 ,,import]s ,,& ,,jobb]s ,,( ,indigo1 ,cut*1 ,dyewoods4 ,,g5]al ,,ag5ts ,celebrat$ ,b]l9 ,br& ,non-,poison\s ,anil9e ,colors1 includ+ ,sub/antive ,dyes1 & _m v>ieties ,soloble 9 ,oils1 c4 ,,manufactur$ ,,by ,acti5 ,gesells*aft fur ,anil9-,fabrikation1 ,,b]l91 ,,g]many4 #ag #ai ,pe>l ,/reet1 ,bo/on4 #gh ,william ,/reet1 ,new ,york4 #ga ,nor? ,front ,/reet1 ,philadelphia4 99 99 99 99 99 ,a4 ,,klip/e91 #eb ,c$> ,/reet1 ,,new ,,york4 ,,anil9e ,,colors1 ,& all ,dye/uffs & ,*emicals us$ 9 ,fea!r ,dye+4 #acd ,milk ,/41 ,bo/on4 ,,bran* ,,(fices3 #abj ,ar* ,/41 ,philadelphia4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,wm4 ,j4 ,,ma!son ,,co41 #bj ,c$> ,/reet1 ,new ,york4 #adg ,milk ,/41 ,bo/on4 ,,bran* ,,h\ses3 #ah ,n4 ,front ,/41 ,philadelphia4 #bb ,s4 ,wat] ,/reet1 ,provid5ce1 ,r4 ,i4 ,,import]s ,,( ,,& ,,deal]s ,,9 ,coal ,t> ,colors & ,dye/uffs ,,manufactur]s ,,( ,dyewood1 ,sumac & ,indigo ,extracts1 & ,c>m9es4 99 99 99 99 99 ,am]ican ,ultram>9e & ,globe ,anil9 ,works ,,hell] ,,m]z1 ,,proprietors1 #ee ,maid5 ,lane1 ,new ,york4 ,p4,o4 ,box #cejh4 ,rose ,b5gal1 ,ery?ros9e1 ,fu*s9e1 ,phlox9e1 ,eos9e1 ,violet1 ( ,sup]ior ,quality4 99 99 99 99 99 ,john ,m4 ,%>pless ,co4 ,,manufactur]s ,,( ,,solid ,,& ,,pa/e ,,extracts ,,( ,,dyewoods ,,cut ,,& ,,bolt$ ,,dyewoods ,,import]s ,,( ,cut*1 ,indigo1 ,*emicals1 c4 ,(fice3 #bj #bb ,n4 ,front ,/41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 99 99 99 99 99 ,r4 ,,holliday',s ,,sons1 #abh ,,milk ,,/41 ,,bo/on4 ,,mass4 #de ,n4 ,,front ,,/41 ,,philadelphia4 ,,pr9cipal ,,(fice3 #g ,,platt ,,/41 ,,new ,,york4 ,,manufactur]s ,,( ,,all ,,anil9e ,,colors1 ,,ar*il1 ,,extract ,,( ,,indigo1 c4 ,,pat5t$ ,,( ,,acid ,,mag5ta4 ,,works--,brooklyn1 ,n4 ,y42 ,hudd]sfield & ,wakefield1 ,engl&4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,s*oellkopf1 ,,h>t=d ,,maclagan1 ,l't'd ,illu/ration #c ,c$> ,/41 #ajc ,milk ,/41 ,,new ,,york4 ,,bo/on4 #db ,n4 ,wat] ,/41 ,,philadelphia4 ,,sole ,,ag5ts ,,= ,,s*oellkopf ,,anil9e ,,& ,,*emical ,,co4 ,,buffalo1 ,n4 ,y4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,textile ,,colori/ ,a ,mon?ly ,j\rnal ,,devot$ ,,to ,,practical ,,dye+1 ,,blea*+1 ,,pr9t+ ,,& ,,f9i%+1 ,,dyes1 ,,dye/uffs1 ,,& ,,*emicals ,,z ,,appli$ ,,to ,,dye+1 ,textile ,ma*9]y1 ,c>d+1 ,sp9n+1 ,weav+1 ,,design+ ,,& ,,improv$ ,,processes ,,9 ,,textile ,,manufactur+4 ,,e/abli%$1 ,,janu>y1 #ahgi4 ,publi%$ on ! #ae? ( ea* mon?1 at #ejf ,,ar* ,,/reet1 ,,philadelphia1 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ,transcrib]'s ,notes3 ,correct$ obvi\s typos & inconsi/5cies 9 punctuation3 p#cd;a4 ,,biege - ,,beige 7also 9 ,index & ,index to samples74 p#ed4 half a c5tury age - half a c5tury ago4 t]ra-cotta 7,index7 - t]ra cotta 7text74 triluel - trileul4 p#fe4 luke wat] - luke-w>m wat]4 p#ajd4 c]tian - c]ta94 p#abb4 turm]ic is boil+ - turm]ic 9 boil+4 p#abd4 anal9e - anil9e4 p#aea4 ,lay d[n ! fea!rs = f\r h\rs is a cold4 ba? - ,lay d[n ! fea!rs = f\r h\rs 9 a cold ba?4 p#afb4 mo/ en]getic & & effecti\s - mo/ en]getic & effecti\s4 p#agc4 & h& !m ov] - & h&s !m ov]4 p#ahg4 ,op]ate ( foll[s - ,op]ate z foll[s4 p#ahh4 to put fea!rs "o side - to put fea!rs to "o side4 p#ahi4 composion - composition ,9 ! ,sample ,index1 ! page = ,,blue1 ,,m$ium %\ld be #cd;a n #bd;a4 ,"s inconsi/5cies & oddities 9 spell+ & hyph5ation h be5 left z pr9t$3 h& heat & h&-heat4 c5trifugat$ 79 text7 & soloble 79 pr9t$ adv]tisem5t74 r$y$1 re-dy$4 p]oxyd & p]oxide4 luke w>m1 lukew>m & luke-w>m4 p#aad4 ,! correct =mula = hydrog5 p]oxide is ,h#b,o#b