,,sykes ,,street1 ,,sole ,u4 ,s4 ,,agents ,,for ,st4 ,denis ,dyestuff and ,chemical ,co41 7,,limited47 ,a4 ,,poirrier1 ,president4 ,no4 #aje ,,rue ,,lafayette1 ,,paris1 ,,france1 ,,manufacturers ,,of ,,aniline ,,colors1 ,,archil ,,extract1 ,,cudbear4 c4 ,,including ,,many ,specialties for ,feather and ,silk ,dyers ,french ,extracts of ,dyewood and ,indigo1 c41 c4 #he ,water ,st41 ,,new ,,york1 ,u4,s4,a4 ,,branches3 ,,boston--#ce ,india ,street4 ,,philadelphia--#dc ,n4 ,front ,st4 ,,agencies3 ,r4 ,r4 ,,street ,,co41 ,chicago4 ,ills4 ,s4 ,h4 ,,frank ,,co41 ,san ,francisco1 ,cal4 ,illustration3 ,,group ,,of ,,ostriches4 ,,the ,,practical ,,ostrich ,,feather ,,dyer1 ,,by ,,alexander ,,paul4 ,,revised ,,and ,,corrected ,,by ,,dr4 ,m4 ,,frank4 ,,published ,,by ,,mrs4 ,,dr4 ,m4 ,,frank1 ,textile ,colorist1 #ejf ,arch ,st41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa41 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 #ahhh4 ,copyright1 #ahhh1 by ,mrs4 ,dr4 ,m4 ,frank4 ,all ,rights ,reserved4 ,,preface4 ,in the preparation of this work it has been my aim to present ,recipes1 simple1 yet complete in every detail1 for dyeing every color and shade of color known4 ,reliability1 practicability and rapidity ,i claim for this work1 and would ask that it be judged not from a literary standpoint1 but as a thorough and practical instructor in the art of ,ostrich ,feather ,dyeing1 as simplified and perfected by me during years of hard work and research4 ,it is the first work of its kind ever put before the public in the ,english language1 and will1 in consequence1 receive from those interested close scrutiny and criticism1 which prompts the author to offer #ajjj to any person who will prove that the recipes herein contained1 or any single one of them1 will not produce the desired color or shade perfect and in the time mentioned4 ,the old methodical orthodox dyers will find a decided advantage in being enabled to make colors in minutes1 that heretofore required hours and days to complete4 ,technicalities and high-sounding phrases for the names of colors and terms of the dye-house have no place in this work4 ,it is not necessary for a man to be a chemist to be a practical feather dyer1 other authorities to the contrary notwithstanding4 ,good practical common sense and judgment and a knowledge of the nature of the goods you are handling1 and throw theory to the winds4 ,,alex ,,paul4 ,,to ,,the ,,ostrich ,,feather ,,manufacturers1 ,,dyers ,,and ,,scourers1 ,,and ,,interested ,,public ,,of ,,america ,,and ,,europe1 ,,this ,,work ,,is ,,respectfully ,,dedicated1 ,,by ,,the ,,author4 ,,testimonials4 ,the following are a few of the numerous testimonials received by ,dr4 ,m4 ,frank1 ,manager of ,textile ,colorist1 in evidence of our method3 ,,chicago1 ,feb4 #bc1 #ahhe4 ,all ,i have to say regarding ,mr4 ,alex4 ,paul's method for dyeing ostrich feathers are just as he represents1 and after having taken a course ,i am perfectly satisfied4 ,i4 ,f4 ,,schwarz4 ,,richmond1 ,,va41 ,jan4 #bj1 #ahhe4 ,sir1--,after receiving a course of instruction of ,mr4 ,alex4 ,paul1 ,i think he is a thorough master of his art1 and fully comes up his promises1 and any one who wishes to learn the art could not do better than to engage his services4 ,,jas4 ,f4 ,,thurston4 ,,louisville1 ,,ky41 ,march #ab1 #ahhe4 ,this is to certify that ,i have this day received instructions from ,mr4 ,paul1 in the art of feather dyeing1 and ,i can truly say that ,i am much pleased with his process1 so simple1 so quickly done1 and produces such beautiful colors and shades4 ,i paid #aej to other parties for instruction in feather dyeing1 and ,i can say that ,i knew but little about feather dyeing before to-day4 ,p4 ,,barrister4 ,,milwaukee1 ,feb4 #bg1 #ahhe4 ,we take pleasure in recommending the method of feather dyeing taught to us by ,mr4 ,alex4 ,paul1 for the sum of fifty dollars4 ,we think it would be beneficial for any dyer to learn this art4 ,,otto ,,pietsch ,,co4 ,,rochester1 ,feb4 #d1 #ahhe4 ,this is to certify that ,mr4 ,paul has this day given me instructions in ostrich feather dyeing1 for which ,i paid fifty dollars4 ,i am perfectly satisfied that he has accomplished all that he undertook to do to my satisfaction1 and think that it will prove to be money well invested4 ,,wm4 ,,mains4 ,,canton1 ,o41 ,feb4 #aa1 #ahhe4 ,i have taken this day a course of instruction in ostrich feather dyeing from ,mr4 ,a4 ,paul1 for which ,i paid him fifty dollars4 ,the same ,i consider the most simple and best method known2 and is well worth ten times the amount4 ,c4 ,,peter ,,son4 ,,utica1 ,jan4 #ca1 #ahhe4 ,i have received a course of instructions from ,alex4 ,paul1 for which ,i paid him fifty dollars1 and would state that ,i consider ,mr4 ,paul a thorough master of the art of feather dyeing1 and feel that five times the amount paid him would not be equivalent to the information received4 ,,john ,w4 ,,mclean4 ,,milwaukee1 ,feb4 #bh1 #ahhe4 ,mr4 ,alex4 ,paul has given me instruction for dyeing and cleaning ostrich feathers4 ,i feel satisfied to certify that his method cannot be excelled1 and that the instruction is worth ten times the amount charged4 ,i4 ,,leiser4 ,,baltimore1 ,jan4 #ad1 #ahhe4 ,sir1--,i have received through ,mr4 ,alex4 ,paul of your method of feather dyeing1 and acknowledge that your method is far superior to my most vivid imagination of what can be executed in the art of feather dyeing4 ,i would not sell the information ,i have obtained1 nor would be without it for a great deal more than ,i paid for it4 ,e4 ,,bauer4 ,,albany1 ,jan4 #bh1 #ahhe4 ,i am glad to have had the opportunity to learn the art of feather dyeing as taught by ,mr4 ,alex4 ,paul1 and will never regret it4 ,it is the easiest1 most economical and the best method known4 ,i paid ,mr4 ,paul fifty dollars for his instruction1 but ,i would not be without it for five hundred4 ,it is1 without exception1 the finest method extant4 ,,john ,p4 ,,mayer4 ,illustration3 ,a1 ,work-bench4 ,b1 ,hydro-extractor4 ,c1 ,c1 ,buckets4 ,d1 ,boiler4 ,e1 ,stationary ,wash-tub4 ,f1 ,f1 ,hot-water ,pipes4 ,illustration3 ,steaming ,kettle ,illustration3 ,curling ,knife 7,half ,size7 ,,ostrich ,,feather ,,dyeing4 ,,growth ,,of ,,the ,,ostrich ,,feather ,,trade ,,during ,,the ,,past ,,twelve ,,years ,,in ,,this ,,country4 ,the manufacturers of ,america could have been counted on the fingers of one's hand a dozen years ago4 ,at the present time ,new ,york alone can boast of between forty and fifty4 ,enterprising men in other cities and throughout the country are yearly becoming interested and endeavoring to take hold of this young and profitable business1 and we can look to ostrich feather manufacturing at the present time as one of our staple industries4 ,the greatest disadvantage manufacturers have had to contend with was a lack of knowledge of coloring4 ,our greatest chemists and aniline manufacturers have worked diligently1 contributing largely to the progress of wool1 cotton and silk dyeing1 but the amount of dyestuffs used by the largest feather manufacturers was of such minor importance that it did not seem profitable for them to investigate2 consequently the art of ostrich feather dyeing progressed very slowly4 ,feather dyers a dozen years ago were scarce1 and the art 7if in those days it could be called such71 was controlled to a great extent by the ,french1 who1 judging by my experience with them1 impressed me as being the most egotistical mortals1 and decidedly orthodox in their methods1 absolutely refusing to take hold of anything new that might prove beneficial to them1 and so jealously did they guard their 7as they considered them7 secrets1 that during working hours every one of them even their employers1 were denied admittance to the dye-house4 ,millions of dollars are at the present time invested in ostrich feathers in all conditions1 in the cases of raw stock in the ware-houses and in the flourishing ostrich farms now in existence2 and a milliner's window without its rich clusters of ostrich tips and plumes would to-day be a rare sight4 ,they are used not only in the trimming of hats and bonnets1 but fashion demands their use in trimming dresses1 wraps1 etc41 and to a large extent they are being used in making handsome and very valuable fans4 ,it is to be regretted that ,london and ,paris markets are supplied with the choicest of the goods that come from the ,cape1 and ,america gets the leavings1 although our market consumes equally as many1 if not more4 ,it is only a matter of time1 however1 when manufacturers will be importing raw stock direct4 ,,the ,,bird1 ,,its ,,plumage ,,and ,,habits4 ,years ago1 before the trade had begun to assume its present proportions1 the supply of feathers came chiefly from ,egypt2 the bird being hunted by the natives1 and generally killed for its plumage1 which was in quality far superior to the feathers which are to-day raised on farms at the ,cape4 ,the flues or fibres of the ,egyptian were very close and compact and very strong in texture and of great durability1 and having a great affinity for color1 they were capable of standing a great amount of manipulation without receiving serious injury4 ,a serious objection to them was that one-half1 or more1 were marked where the bird pecked them with his bill1 giving them a moth-eaten appearance1 and few of them could be used for white1 as they were more or less stained on the ends1 a dirty yellow1 which soap would not remove and acid would only develop1 there being at that time no known method of bleaching them1 as the virtues of ,peroxide of ,hydrogen or ,permanganate of ,potash as bleaching agents were unknown to the dyers4 ,enterprising capitalists saw a profitable field for investment in the propagation of the bird1 and1 as a result1 the supply has greatly increased1 and the quality of the plumage is far superior in every respect to the wild ,egyptian ostrich4 ,a full grown ostrich will weigh about three hundred pounds1 and stands about seven to eight feet in height4 ,in the breeding season they will travel in broods of from three to five in number1 one of which is invariably a male4 ,the hens lay their eggs in a pit scraped out with their feet1 the sand forming a ridge around it4 ,when they have accumulated a dozen eggs or so the male begins to brood1 always taking his place on them at night1 surrounded by the hens1 while by day they will relieve one another4 ,again1 at times the hatching has been left entirely to the sun4 ,north ,african eggs present a smooth surface1 while those of the ,south are pitted4 ,at the present time an ostrich farm is in progress in ,california2 it is as yet a very young institution1 and its success is being watched with interest1 but1 in my opinion1 while the bird will live and thrive1 the quality of the plumage will be very inferior to those in their native clime4 ,so much has already been written concerning the bird's powerful digestive organs1 and so exaggerated that we will not try to discredit or contradict it4 ,it is hardly necessary to remark that there is scarcely enough substance in ten-penny nails or doorknobs to fatten an ostrich on4 ,,brief ,,sketch ,,of ,,dyestuffs ,,used ,,by ,,me ,,in ,,my ,,method ,,of ,,dyeing4 ,,logwood4 ,logwood is met with in commerce in the shape of large blocks1 averaging about four hundred pounds each in weight4 ,on the surface the wood is a dirty deep brown red1 but within1 where it has not come in contact with the atmosphere1 its color is much brighter4 ,the tree is a native of ,south ,america4 ,it has been known and used ever since a short period after the discovery of ,america4 ,during the twenty-third year of the reign of ,queen ,elizabeth an act of ,parliament was passed1 forbidding its use as a dyestuff1 because it did not yield fast colors4 ,this act was repealed1 however1 by an ,order in ,council of ,charles ,,ii41 which proceeds to set forth that great improvements have been made as regards the obtaining of fast colors from logwood4 ,the following are the chief varieties of logwood1 distinguished by names derived from the localities of exportation3 ,yucatan1 ,laguna1 ,domingo1 ,monte ,christo1 ,fort ,liberte1 ,jamaica1 etc4 ,logwood is to-day one of our most important dyewoods1 as indeed it enters in feather dyeing into all of the dark or staple colors1 such as black1 navy blue1 brown1 green1 garnet1 etc4 ,to extract the substance requires considerable boiling1 especially if used in the form of chips2 if it is used ground1 which is by far preferable to chips in feather dyeing1 it requires much less boiling to extract the substance4 ,the dyer will often find logwood1 that1 although purchased under the name of a most excellent brand1 will be far inferior to what he has been using1 in which case it is well to look for an adulteration of some sort1 which it is not at all easy to detect1 only when it does not produce the desired result4 ,,turmeric4 ,the substance known as turmeric is the under-ground stem of a plant which grows in a wild state in some parts of ,china and ,india4 ,it emits a strong1 but pleasant odor1 and its taste is peppery1 aromatic and bitter at the same time4 ,the plant1 however1 is cultivated in ,java and ,bengal2 the latter country producing the better quality4 ,although turmeric is rich in coloring matter1 its want of permanence is a hindrance to it4 ,it is generally sold in powder1 ground down very fine4 ,it should be quite dry2 if damp1 it loses its color1 turns a dull yellowish brown1 and dyes flat shades4 ,a good turmeric should show a beautiful lustre4 ,it enters into a majority of the dark colors in feather dyeing1 and1 although used as a body for colors only1 a great deal depends upon it as to the result4 ,,bichromate ,,of ,,potash4 ,this dyestuff1 known as red chrome and bichromate and often times simply as chrome1 consists in one equivalent of potash1 with two equivalents of chromic acid4 ,it contains no water1 and consequently cannot lose any weight by exposure to heat or dry air4 ,it will not attract moisture from a damp atmosphere4 ,it dissolves readily in ten times its weight of cold water1 and is insoluble in alcohol4 ,it forms bright red crystals1 and the solution is of a deep orange yellow4 ,bichromate of potash is a most powerful oxidizing agent1 and produces very complex and interesting changes in tinctorial bodies4 ,it is an intense poison4 ,its most extensive application is now in the production of blacks1 along with logwood2 indeed1 without its aid it would be next to an impossibility to produce a glossy and permanent black on ostrich feathers4 ,in giving depth of shade to all dark colors it is used in preference to any thing else1 and ,i have never found any to contain any adulteration that was perceptible1 or that was a hindrance to its good qualities4 ,it is used in ostrich feather dyeing always in a diluted form1 in a very high temperature of water4 ,,archil4 ,about the thirteenth century an ,italian1 ,tederigi by name1 during travels in the ,east observed the tinctorial powers of a certain class of plant of low organization1 called lichens1 and introduced the color into ,europe under the name of archil4 ,for this discovery he was amply rewarded by the government1 besides amassing a large fortune1 as the supply for years came from ,florence4 ,at first the weeds were collected on the shores of various islands in the ,mediterranean2 but on the discovery of the ,canary ,islands1 in #adjb1 large quantities were obtained from there4 ,later on they were imported from ,cape ,verde2 and now they are also obtained from ,madagascar1 ,zanzibar1 ,angelo and ,lima and various localities in ,south ,america4 ,the weed does not contain any coloring matter already formed1 but under the influence of ammonia and the oxygen of the atmosphere gives rise to archil4 ,the manufacture of archil was for centuries carried on in wooden troughs4 ,two hundred parts lichens were placed in the trough together with about two hundred and forty parts of decomposed urine1 and the mixture well worked every three hours for forty-eight hours4 ,five parts of slaked lime1 one part of arsenious acid and one and one-quarter parts of alum were then added1 and the whole well stirred and allowed to ferment4 ,the stirring was repeated1 from time to time1 for a month4 ,the contents of the trough were then removed to casks1 and left to stand1 thus improving the color4 ,archil is also one of the most important dyestuffs used by the feather dyer1 principally entering into the composition of garnet1 plum1 brown1 etc4 ,contact with acid will destroy its coloring virtues by turning it a dull brown red4 ,,safranine4 ,it is prepared by treating aniline oils successively with nitrous acid and arsenic acid1 and one of an alkaline nitrate at about #bab ,fah41 for a short time4 ,the product is extracted with boiling water1 neutralized with an alkali filtered1 and the color precipitated with common salt4 ,pure hydrochloride forms thin reddish crystals1 which are soluble in water and in alcohol1 yielding a yellowish red solution4 ,the most characteristic reaction of safranine is that when concentrated sulphuric acid is gradually added to its solution1 the color changes to violet1 then to blue1 dark green and light green4 ,then1 on diluting the solution with water1 the same changes of color take place1 only in the reverse order4 ,in feather dyeing safranine is used chiefly in making light colors of a pinkish hue2 such as pink1 terra cotta1 and to give a tint to ecru1 beige and such colors4 ,,oxalic ,,acid4 ,oxalic acid1 a most powerful acid1 occurs combined chiefly with potash juices of plants of the genus oxalis and rumex4 ,artificially it was obtained by the action of nitric acid upon sugar and starch1 but has been prepared latterly by treating spent dyestuffs with alkalies4 ,oxalic acid forms colorless transparent crystals1 which are inodorous1 intensely sour1 and do not grow moist upon exposure4 ,should they become damp1 some nitric or sulphuric acid1 used in the preparation1 has not been thoroughly removed4 ,it is soluble in its own weight of boiling water1 but requires about eight times its weight of water at #fe ,fah4 ,oxalic is one of the largely used acids in feather dyeing1 being used in a number of light colors for the purpose of developing the color4 ,in developing blues it is invaluable4 ,other colors it will totally destroy1 violet or safranine1 for example2 and it is used in place of sulphuric acid for the purpose of extracting color4 ,,indigo ,,blue4 ,indigo is derived from several plants of warm climates4 ,in the plant the color exists as a yellowish liquid2 but when extracted and exposed to the action of the air it becomes insoluble1 and takes an intensely blue color4 ,the cultivation of the plant is carried on chiefly in ,india1 ,java1 ,egypt and ,louisiana4 ,indigo comes in the market in lumps1 which1 if of good quality1 presents a deep bluish purple color1 and exhibits a fine reddish coppery lustre if rubbed with a hard1 polished body4 ,if very hard or heavy1 or when the color is very dull1 blackish1 greenish or brownish1 the quality is below the standard4 ,it is1 however1 of very little consequence in ostrich feather dyeing1 and its impurities would scarcely at any time be noticeable4 ,it should1 however1 dilute thoroughly in boiling water1 and if there remain a sediment of any proportion1 the indigo is impure4 ,sulphuric acid is generally used to develop the color4 ,,sulphuric ,,acid4 ,sulphuric acid1 commonly called oil of vitriol1 a common1 yet very important1 acid4 ,although not used to any great extent in ostrich feather dyeing1 it occurs in commerce in various states and degrees of purity4 ,it was at one time prepared by distilling dried copperas at a high temperature4 ,it is now obtained in greater purity from the alkaline bisulphates4 ,it is a clear colorless oily fluid1 weighing about eighteen pounds to the gallon4 ,if mixed with cold water1 a great increase of temperature takes place4 ,it rapidly destroys organic bodies1 depriving them of their oxygen and hydrogen1 and leaving the carbon behind1 as a blackish mass4 ,if any particle of organic matter falls into a carboy of acid1 it is decomposed1 and imparts a dark color to the liquid4 ,it takes up water from the air rapidly1 if left uncorked1 and thus dilutes itself4 ,its use in feather dyeing is principally to extract colors that are too dark4 ,,copperas4 ,copperas is generally prepared from the soft1 white variety of iron pyrites1 frequently found to a great extent in the coal measures4 ,these1 on exposure to air and moisture1 decompose the latter1 taking up oxygen1 and are thus converted into sulphate of iron4 ,copperas forms pale greenish blue semi-transparent crystals1 containing forty-five per cent4 of water4 ,if this be expelled1 there remains a dull whitish powder4 ,the crystals dissolve readily in one and one-half times their weight of cold water1 and less than half their weight of boiling water4 ,the direct uses of copperas have very much diminished in feather dyeing2 as for dyeing black in conjunction with logwood it has been almost entirely superseded by bichromate of potash4 ,in drabs and in saddening down light colors it is1 to a certain extent1 still used4 ,it is used in quantities so small1 however1 that there is no serious results to be feared1 as it must be used in quantity to injure the fibre4 ,,bismarck ,,brown4 ,bismarck brown is a product that is used in feather dyeing to a considerable extent1 chiefly in a diluted form4 ,it dissolves readily in boiling water4 ,it comes in the form of a powder1 of a dirty black hue1 and in liquid it is a heavy yellowish red4 ,it makes a fast color1 alkali having but little effect on it4 ,oxalic or sulphuric acid will brighten the color1 and turning it more on the red order4 ,in giving a brownish hue to such light colors as beige1 ecru1 etc41 it is invaluable4 ,it is used by some in the topping of dark brown4 ,it has such a great affinity for the fibre of feathers that it is very difficult to remove therefrom4 ,,concentrated ,,cotton ,,blue4 ,this blue appears to the consumer in the form of crystals or coarse powder of a purplish tint4 ,it is not universally used among feather dyers1 although it is the most reliable aniline blue in use4 ,it is used in conjunction with oxalic acid to develop4 ,it is fast to light1 and possesses a great many advantages of value4 ,it is soluble in water1 either hot or cold1 and is used in the production of the palest shades1 as well as in the darkest navy blues4 ,,rocceline4 ,a patented product1 that in feather dyeing is capable of taking the place of all other reds4 ,it is the only dyestuff that satisfactorily takes the place of extract of safflower1 producing1 with the aid of a proportion of oxalic acid1 the most beautiful shades of scarlet and cardinal4 ,it is perfectly fast to light1 dissolves readily in boiling water1 and comes to us in the form of a dull red powder4 ,its adulterations1 if it contains any1 have never interfered with its success2 in fact1 to the feather dyer it contains virtues too manifold and valuable to enumerate4 ,,dyeing ,,recipes4 ,,white4 ,,bleaching1 ,,or ,,what ,,is ,,commonly ,,called ,,cleaning4 ,after stringing your feathers and marking your tickets1 prepare luke warm soap-water and wash thoroughly between the hands to remove all dirt and grease4 ,rub the soap on the feathers1 rinse thoroughly in luke warm water two or three times for the purpose of removing all particles of soap1 which is very important2 just as much so as removing the dirt4 ,for one to one hundred feathers you can use a common porcelain wash bowl4 ,prepare bath by using one gallon of clear cold water1 add to that a small handful of starch1 powdered or lump starch will answer4 ,enter feathers1 rubbing them thoroughly between the hands to expand the flues and get them in condition to receive the color1 so as to insure an even shade2 after which add about one-half teaspoonful of oxalic acid and a drop of diluted violet1 just enough to give your bath a pale lavender tint4 ,enter feathers1 and let remain in bath about one minute1 keeping them under the surface and agitating by rubbing them between the hands2 after which squeeze feathers out of bath and dry4 ,the quickest method for a few feathers is to have a small quantity of clean1 powdered starch1 and rub them around in it4 ,the starch will immediately absorb all moisture1 and you have but to beat it out of the flues1 as it dries either on a clean board or between the hands4 ,it is but the work of a few seconds4 ,this method of drying insures an unsoiled color1 as the feathers are dry a few seconds after leaving the bath4 ,great care should be used to bring your violet diluted thoroughly1 so that no particles may enter the bath and spot your goods4 ,in diluting your violet use boiling water1 and shake well in bottle1 and let it stand for a time1 when all sediment will settle at the bottom1 and will not again mix with your color4 ,it is very important to use only the amount of oxalic acid mentioned in recipe1 as a greater quantity would destroy your color by turning the violet a dirty blueish green1 and much less than the quantity mentioned would have a tendency to cast a lavender tint on your goods4 ,should you1 by mistake or carelessness1 spoil your white1 proceed to rinse off all the starch in cold water first2 then in luke warm water to remove all the acid from feathers1 and then use soap and hot water1 and wash well1 and rinse4 ,mix a fresh white bath as directed in the recipe1 and proceed this time with more care4 ,,bleaching ,,light ,,colors ,,white4 ,old faded light colors1 such as blue1 pink1 ecru1 corn1 drab1 etc41 that you are desirous of bleaching white1 can be accomplished in the following way4 ,wash feathers thoroughly in warm water1 using soap4 ,add a small pinch of soda1 after which rinse in about three warm waters to insure the removal of every particle of soap4 ,dilute in clean bowl or basin one-quarter ounce of permanganate of potash in one gallon of boiling water4 ,the water must be as hot as steam or fire can make it4 ,enter feathers1 and let remain in bath about one minute1 a few seconds more or less will do no harm1 nor will it make any material difference in the result2 continually agitating in bath with clean stick1 after which you will notice that the feathers have assumed a light1 full brown color4 ,take out of the bath1 but do not rinse them2 let the loose color drain off for a few seconds1 meantime empty bath and rinse your bowl thoroughly2 then dilute half an ounce of oxalic acid or sulphurous acid in one gallon of boiling water4 ,the water must be absolutely clean4 ,enter feathers1 and let remain in until all the color has entirely disappeared1 gently agitating while in bath4 ,after the bath has become transparent and the feathers white1 which will take about two minutes1 empty out about two-thirds of the bath1 and add cold water to reduce to hand heat2 then add a small handful of starch and a drop of diluted violet1 and enter your feathers1 and let them remain in about one minute1 squeeze out and dry in starch4 ,blue you will generally find the hardest of all light colors to remove for white1 the soda and permanganate seeming apparently to decompose the color4 ,the moment it enters the oxalic bath1 it generally1 to a more or less extent1 develops the color again4 ,such being the case1 after rinsing in luke warm water to remove acid1 return to a weak soda bath for a minute1 and then rinse and return to permanganate bath1 rather weaker than the first one2 in other words1 repeat the first operation all through1 only in weaker solutions4 ,this process can be used successfully in bleaching all light colors white4 ,in bleaching natural blacks1 however1 it would not be practicable4 ,a recipe for bleaching natural black will be found in another portion of the book4 ,illustration3 ,,white--page #af4 ,illustration3 ,,lilac--page #ef4 ,illustration3 ,,light ,,pink--page #bj4 ,illustration3 ,,lemon--page #eb4 ,,light ,,pink4 ,white feathers are generally used for this color1 but all light colors can be made a beautiful shade of pink by first bleaching with permanganate of potash4 ,after washing and rinsing thoroughly in luke warm water1 soap to remove all loose dirt and grease1 or bleaching1 if required4 ,prepare bath as follows3 ,take one gallon of luke warm water1 more or less1 according to the quantity of feathers you have to dye add a small handful of starch4 ,enter your feathers and rub around between the hands thoroughly to open the flues so as to insure an even shade2 add a couple of drops of diluted safranine to bath4 ,enter feathers1 and let them remain in the bath about one minute1 or until feathers look about two shades darker than sample2 gently stirring them around in bath meanwhile1 and keeping them under the surface4 ,remove from bath1 squeeze and dry in the usual way1 rubbing them in dry powdered starch1 and beat them out on a clean board or between the hands to remove all particles which might adhere4 ,should your sample that you have to match be a little on the yellowish order1 a drop of diluted ,bismarck brown added to bath will bring the desired shade2 or if a very brilliant shade or rose pink1 a drop of diluted violet added to the bath and increase temperature2 a little judgment is always necessary2 as1 for example1 should you require a dark shade1 you would naturally let your goods remain longer in the bath than the time specified in recipe1 or add a little more color1 and if a very pale pink is wanted1 less time and color should be used4 ,should you1 at any time1 find your color1 after being dried1 a couple of shades darker than your sample1 rinse goods in luke warm water1 and enter feathers1 pass through for a minute1 and dry4 ,,light ,,blue4 ,all other faded out light colors can be made into a delicate shade of sky blue by first bleaching with permanganate of potash process for the purpose of removing colors4 ,white feathers that are only dirty and greasy must be thoroughly washed and rinsed in luke warm water1 after which prepare bath as follows3 ,for one gallon of luke warm water1 more or less1 according to the amount of feathers to be dyed1 add a small handful of clean starch2 enter your feather and rub them around in bath for a second between the hands to open the flues1 to admit color evenly2 add about one teaspoonful of oxalic acid1 enter feathers and let remain in bath a few seconds longer2 then remove feathers from bath1 and add a couple of drops of concentrated cotton blue diluted2 re-enter feathers and let them remain in about half a minute2 increase temperature of your bath a few degrees by adding some hot water2 take feathers out of bath and add thereto a drop of diluted indigo blue2 re-enter1 and keep them well under the surface of bath to give them an even color1 and allow to remain in about thirty seconds longer4 ,take them out of bath1 squeeze out and dry1 either in powdered starch or by beating on a clean board or table4 ,under no circumstances allow feathers to hang wet and motionless on line during process of drying without beating the starch out4 ,the result of so doing would cause the feathers to look thin1 shriveled1 and injure the color and quality of goods4 ,the same care should be observed not alone in this1 but in all colors4 ,in light blues your bath should look about two shades darker than the sample to be matched4 ,where a darker shade is required1 more color can be added2 and1 through carelessness or negligence1 should you allow your color to become too dark1 rinse off your feathers in cold water first to remove the starch1 and then in luke warm water a couple of times to draw off all acid1 and pass feathers a few seconds through a bath of luke warm water with a small pinch of soda in it1 which will have the effect of drawing off all surplus color2 after which rinse in luke warm water1 and mix a fresh bath of luke warm water and starch and one-half a teaspoonful of oxalic acid2 enter your feathers and carefully add color until you have obtained the desired shade4 ,,ecru4 ,all old colors1 excepting dark brown1 bottle green1 navy blue1 black1 garnet1 etc41 can be dyed a good shade of ecru4 ,begin an old color by passing them through a solution of hot water1 about one ounce of soda to a gallon of water1 for about #cj seconds2 after which take them out and rinse by passing them through clean boiling water1 which will draw off more color than it would seem possible the feathers could contain4 ,if all the old color1 or enough of it1 be not removed1 put feathers through the permanganate of potash process4 ,for dirty white feathers simply wash them thoroughly with soap and hot water1 and rinse well2 then prepare your bath as follows3 ,one gallon of hand warm water1 add a small handful of starch1 and enter feathers1 rubbing them around thoroughly1 and getting the starch rubbed into the flues2 then add to bath a small quantity of copperas1 about the size of a bean1 and re-enter your feathers and let remain in bath about one minute or less2 after which add a few drops of logwood liquor and about a teaspoonful of diluted aniline brown1 first removing feathers from bath2 enter feathers and let remain in bath about one minute1 being careful to keep them moving in bath4 ,if found a little too brown to match your sample1 a small pinch of turmeric added to bath will reduce the shade4 ,if they are found a little too yellow for sample1 a drop of diluted violet will answer4 ,if the dyer1 through his own carelessness1 should allow his color to get too dark1 proceed to extract color as follows3 dilute in about one gallon of luke warm water one-half teaspoonful of oxalic acid4 ,enter feathers1 first rinsing off starch in cold water2 let them remain in about half a minute1 and rinse off about three times in hot water to remove acid4 ,the acid will turn the feathers a bright yellow1 and after rinsing off well the yellow color will have entirely disappeared1 and the feathers a light shade of dust4 ,prepare a fresh bath as per recipe1 and1 using more care1 enter feathers and pass through until you have acquired the desired shade4 ,in the first bath1 should a very dark shade be required1 add a little more logwood and copperas than directed in the recipe1 and if a very light color1 a little less4 ,,cream ,,color4 ,there are numerous methods of producing this most beautiful1 yet simple1 shade4 ,any yellow substance in conjunction with oxalic acid can be used with more or less fair success4 ,a great many dyers use a few drops of diluted logwood1 developed with the aid of oxalic acid4 ,the color this produces is very satisfactory when finished1 but no sooner is it exposed to strong light than the color becomes a dirty drab shade1 caused by the acid leaving the feathers1 the logwood becoming oxidized4 ,the best and most permanent shade of cream color is obtained in the following manner3 ,thoroughly wash and rinse your feathers to remove every particle of dirt1 for it is as necessary to have the feathers clean as if they were for a white1 and if they are very dirty or old faded out colors1 put them through the permanganate of potash process1 and then remove all color4 ,prepare bath of one gallon of luke warm water and a small handful of starch2 enter feathers and rub around in bath between the hands2 meantime dilute in about one pint of boiling water a small five-cent package of essence of coffee 7commonly called chicory71 and boil for a few minutes2 then add a few drops of the liquid to the bath1 and add thereto a teaspoonful of oxalic acid4 ,re-enter feathers and let remain in bath about one minute1 constantly moving them around2 after which squeeze them out and dry1 either in starch or on a clean board4 ,the result will be a rich and permanent cream4 ,should a pink or brownish tint be required to match sample1 a drop of ,bismarck brown added to bath will produce the desired result2 or if wanted a little more yellow1 a few grains of turmeric added to the bath will answer4 ,illustration3 ,,cream--page #be4 ,illustration3 ,,light ,,blue--page #ba4 ,illustration3 ,,lavender--page #ch4 ,illustration3 ,,salmon--page #ga4 ,,silver ,,gray4 ,a very delicate color1 requiring feathers almost a pure white to make a clear shade4 ,after thoroughly washing and rinsing1 or bleaching if required1 with permanganate of potash1 prepare a bath of one gallon of luke warm water1 and add a small handful of starch4 ,enter feathers and manipulate between the hands2 then add to bath a small piece of copperas1 about the size of a pea1 and a few drops of diluted logwood liquor2 re-enter feathers and let remain in bath until in appearances they are two or three shades darker than sample2 then add to bath a couple of drops of diluted violet1 first removing feathers from bath2 let them remain in a few seconds longer1 and squeeze out and dry in the usual way4 ,the violet gives your feathers the brilliant shade that is so desirable in silver grays4 ,be careful in drying them not to use starch that has been previously used in drying feathers that have been dyed in acid baths1 as it would be liable to spot your color4 ,should you1 through carelessness or otherwise1 allow your color to get darker than shade desired1 rinse feathers off a couple of times in cold water to remove starch2 then dilute half a teaspoonful of oxalic acid in a gallon of hot water1 and pass feathers through it for a few seconds1 and then rinse off twice in boiling water4 ,after which prepare a bath same as per recipe1 using more care1 and pass feathers through until you have obtained the desired shade4 ,,bismarck ,,brown4 ,wash and rinse your feathers1 after which prepare a bath of one gallon of boiling water and about one ounce of turmeric and half an ounce of copperas2 enter your feathers and let them remain in bath about two minutes1 more or less1 after which take out and rinse twice in cold water4 ,meantime have boiling a bath of half a pound of logwood to a gallon of water1 and enter feathers at boiling temperature1 letting them remain in about ten seconds or longer4 ,should a darker shade be desired1 take out and rinse in cold water1 after which dilute a half teaspoonful of aniline brown in a gallon of boiling water4 ,reduce temperature a little with cold water4 ,enter feathers and let them remain in about three minutes2 then cool off a small portion of the bath1 and add a small handful of starch1 pass feathers through and dry4 ,if a lighter shade is wanted1 add a drop of sulphuric acid to the starch bath and pass feathers through4 ,if the sample to match be more on the yellow order1 about twice the amount of turmeric in the first bath2 and if desired more on the red1 use no turmeric1 only copperas1 in the first bath4 ,if a darker shade is wanted1 let them remain a longer time than that specified in the logwood bath4 ,any light color can be used to make a ,bismarck brown2 but if very dark colors are used1 it is well to draw off some of the color1 doing it in the usual way4 ,illustration3 ,,sea-,,foam--page #gj4 ,illustration3 ,,silver ,,gray--page #bf4 ,illustration3 ,,ecru--page #bc4 ,illustration3 ,,trileul--page #eh4 ,,seal ,,brown4 ,for seal brown it is not necessary to wash your feathers1 nor to bleach off any color4 ,any old colors1 excepting black1 can be made a good shade of seal brown4 ,begin in bath by diluting about two ounces of turmeric in a gallon of boiling water 7more or less matters not74 ,enter your feathers and keep them well under the surface of the bath about two or three minutes2 after which take out and rinse in cold water twice4 ,in the meantime boiling a bath of logwood about one pound to a gallon of water4 ,if boiled on fire about fifteen minutes is necessary1 and if boiled with steam a half hour is required4 ,enter feathers in logwood and let remain in about three minutes1 keeping them well under the surface of bath1 after which take out and rinse2 if in cold water about twice1 then dilute a half an ounce of bichromate of potash in a gallon of boiling water1 and see that bichromate is thoroughly dissolved4 ,enter feathers and let them remain in about ten seconds1 a longer time if a very dark shade is wanted2 then take them out and rinse thoroughly in cold water2 after which add to your logwood bath about one tablespoonful of extract of archil2 bring bath to a boil and enter your feathers2 cover up bath and let them remain in about four minutes2 a little more or less time1 in this bath is of no material difference in color1 only to make the shade heavier or lighter4 ,take your feathers out of bath and rinse in cold water2 mix a small handful of starch in about a quart of cold water1 and pass feathers through and dry in the usual way4 ,if your color be darker than the shade you desire1 add a drop or two of sulphuric acid to starch bath1 and pass your feathers through for a few seconds4 ,if found to be lighter than the shade you desire1 rinse off the starch from your feathers in cold water2 then dilute a quarter of an ounce of bichromate of potash in a gallon of boiling water1 and pass your feathers through2 after which rinse1 starch and dry4 ,another excellent method for quick seal brown is as follows3 dilute two ounces of turmeric and half an ounce of copperas in one gallon of boiling water1 and let them remain in about two minutes2 take out and rinse1 then enter in a strong bath of logwood at boiling1 and keep under surface about three minutes2 after which rinse2 then mix a bath of a quarter to a half teaspoonful of aniline brown in a gallon of boiling water4 ,enter your feathers and let them remain in bath about three minutes2 take out1 rinse1 starch and dry4 ,if required darker1 re-enter into logwood bath for a few seconds4 ,if wanted lighter1 add a drop or two of sulphuric acid in your starch bath1 squeeze out and dry in the usual way4 ,,navy ,,blue4 ,all light colored feathers can be used for navy blue without first either washing or bleaching out any of the color4 ,but if your feathers be very dirty or greasy1 especially the latter1 wash them well in warm soap water and rinse4 ,prepare bath by diluting about one teaspoonful of concentrated cotton blue in one gallon of boiling water2 add about a teaspoonful of oxalic acid4 ,stir around well to thoroughly dissolve aniline2 then enter your feathers1 and raise temperature of your bath to boiling4 ,let feathers remain in about three minutes2 a minute more will not do any harm1 only have a tendency to make your color a little richer2 after which take feathers out of bath and rinse thoroughly in cold water for the purpose of removing all loose particles of color and the acid2 having boiling meantime a bath of logwood of medium strength2 enter feathers1 letting them remain therein about one-half a minute2 take out and rinse in cold water2 dilute about half an ounce of bichromate of potash in a gallon of boiling water2 enter feathers1 let them remain in about half a minute1 and stir them around well in bath2 after which take them out and rinse in cold water and starch and dry4 ,should you desire a darker shade1 rinse off starch1 and return to logwood bath for a few seconds1 rinse off and repeat bichromate of potash bath2 then rinse1 starch and dry4 ,in this way1 by repeating the logwood and bichromate of potash1 you can darken your color down almost to a black4 ,should you get your color darker than your sample to be matched1 rinse off starch in clear cold water1 and dilute a teaspoonful of oxalic acid in a gallon of hot water almost boiling and enter feathers1 passing them through about a half minute2 after which take out and pass through a basin of boiling water a few seconds4 ,this will draw off the surplus of logwood and chrome1 and then mix a starch bath luke warm2 add thereto a half teaspoonful of oxalic acid for the purpose of bringing up the blue4 ,this process will reduce your color three or four shades2 then pass feathers and dry4 ,this process of dyeing navy blue produces a rich1 even shade that is perfectly fast to light and alkali1 and with the smallest degree of judgment by the dyer it is impossible to have a failure4 ,,cardinal4 ,years ago the most successful shades of cardinal were produced by taking about equal parts of turmeric and oxalic acid and diluting in boiling water1 entering feathers in same for a while2 then adding thereto about half a cupful of extract of safflower and about the same amount of extract of archil1 letting them remain in until the bath was cold4 ,not a bad recipe1 but very expensive4 ,prepare your feathers by washing and rinsing thoroughly1 after which take about one gallon of boiling water1 and add to it about one teaspoonful of oxalic acid1 and enter feathers for a few seconds4 ,take out and add to bath a teaspoonful of rocceline powder1 thoroughly dissolved1 and re-enter feathers2 raise temperature of bath to boiling1 either with steam or fire1 and let feathers remain in about four minutes4 ,if quite a dark shade of cardinal be required1 add to bath about a tablespoonful of extract of archil and let remain in a little longer1 or a few drops of diluted violet in bath will answer instead4 ,then empty out all but a small quantity of your bath and cool off with cold water1 and add a small handful of starch4 ,pass feathers through1 squeeze out and dry4 ,the result is a most beautiful shade of cardinal4 ,this color is perfectly fast to light4 ,if your shade to match should happen to be slightly on the yellowish order1 a few drops of diluted aniline brown added to bath with rocceline will produce the yellowish tint4 ,it is hardly possible to spoil this color1 except by the extravagant use of one of the ingredients4 ,illustration3 ,,chocolate--page #ge4 ,illustration3 ,,corn--page #fd4 ,illustration3 ,,medium ,,blue--page #fg4 ,illustration3 ,,beige ,,crushed ,,strawberry4 ,prepare feathers by washing and rinsing thoroughly in luke warm water2 or if old1 dark1 faded out colors1 pass them through bleaching process of permanganate of potash2 afterwards being careful to rinse all the acid out before entering bath4 ,prepare bath by diluting a small handful of starch in about a gallon of luke warm water1 enter feathers and manipulate thoroughly between the hands for a few seconds2 take out1 and add to bath a few drops of diluted safranine2 re-enter feathers and let remain in bath about one minute1 or until they have assumed a dark shade of pink2 then add to bath a few drops of diluted aniline brown and a small pinch of copperas1 and enter feathers1 letting them remain a minute longer4 ,take feathers out1 and dry in the usual way4 ,if a very dark shade is wanted1 a few drops of diluted logwood added to bath at the time you add the copperas will have the desired effect2 or a few drops of violet will answer in its stead4 ,should you find your color too much on the drab1 a few drops of safranine added to bath will have the desired effect4 ,should you find that your color is entirely too dark for your sample1 rinse off the starch in cold water2 pass feathers through a solution of a half teaspoonful of oxalic acid in a gallon of hot water for a few seconds2 then rinse in hot water twice to remove the acid1 after which prepare a fresh bath as per recipe1 using more care1 and keep in until desired result is obtained4 ,,plum4 ,feathers that are any color excepting dark green or black can be dyed a beautiful shade of plum4 ,wash and rinse your goods1 and prepare your bath as follows3 one pound of logwood to a gallon or more of water1 and boil fifteen minutes or longer1 then add to bath about a quarter pound of extract of archil1 and enter your feathers1 letting them remain in bath about five minutes1 after which take them out and rinse in cold water4 ,prepare a bath of half an ounce of bichromate of potash in a gallon of boiling water1 more or less1 and see that it is thoroughly dissolved2 pass feathers through about ten seconds2 then take them out and rinse twice in clear cold water2 then dilute a small handful of starch in a half gallon of luke warm water1 and add to it about half an ounce of soda2 pass feathers through for about half a minute and dry4 ,should color be found too light for sample1 rinse off starch in cold water1 and repeat bichromate of potash bath2 rinse1 starch and dry4 ,an old logwood bath that has been used for other colors will answer for plum1 and save boiling up a fresh bath4 ,,olive4 ,if your feathers to be dyed are very dark colors1 such as brown1 navy blue1 green1 garnet1 etc41 draw off some of the color by passing through a solution of boiling water and half an ounce of soda1 and rinse in boiling water twice4 ,prepare bath by diluting two ounces of turmeric in about one gallon of water4 ,enter feathers and let them remain in about two minutes1--a longer time will not hurt2 after which take them out and rinse in cold water twice4 ,have a medium strong bath of logwood boiling meantime1 and enter your feathers1 letting them remain in about two minutes2 then take them out and rinse in cold water4 ,prepare a bath of one gallon of boiling water and half an ounce of bichromate of potash1 and after it is thoroughly dissolved1 enter your feathers and let them remain in about one minute1 longer if a very dark shade be required4 ,take out and rinse1 after which your feathers will have assumed a dark1 dull olive1 looking not unlike a faded out black4 ,next prepare a bath of two ounces of turmeric with about one gallon of boiling water1 and add thereto a small pinch of green aniline1 just enough to give your bath the appearance of being a couple of shades more on the green than the sample to be matched4 ,enter your feathers and let them remain in about three minutes2 first1 however1 bringing your bath to a boil1 after which take feathers out and rinse1 starch and dry4 ,if feathers be found darker than sample to be matched1 a few drops of diluted oxalic acid in your starch bath will bring the shade down2 and if found lighter than sample1 rinse the starch off thoroughly in cold water1 and dilute a quarter ounce of bichromate of potash in a gallon of boiling water1 and pass your feathers through for a few seconds4 ,if wanted a very dark shade1 they should1 after having the starch rinsed off1 be returned to the logwood bath1 then rinsed and give the bichromate of potash bath as above4 ,if found a little too much on the green for sample1 a weak bath of turmeric1 similar to the first bath of the operation will have the desired effect4 ,there are also some shades of olive where it will not be found necessary to use any green at all2 that is when the shade approaches the brown on the olive4 ,,lavender4 ,feathers for lavender must be white1 or nearly so1 if you desire a good clear shade4 ,all light colors can be used by first bleaching with permanganate of potash1 or if only dirty white feathers1 wash and rinse them thoroughly4 ,prepare bath of luke warm water and a small handful of starch1 rub feathers around between the hands to expand the fibres2 then add to bath a few drops of diluted violet4 ,enter your feathers and let remain about one minute in bath1 keeping them meanwhile in motion2 take out your feathers and add to bath a drop of diluted safranine2 re-enter and raise temperature of bath a few degrees by addition of hot water2 let your feathers remain about half a minute in bath2 if wanted darker1 add a few drops of diluted violet1 and if lighter1 less2 after which take out your feathers and dry them in the usual way1 being careful to use clean starch for drying4 ,to use starch that had previously been used to dry light colors that contained acid1 would most likely result in spotting your color1 as the application of acid to any portion of the delicate color would turn it a greenish blue4 ,if your color be found too dark for sample1 you can either wash in a solution of soap water1 or else pass feathers through a bath of a teaspoonful of oxalic acid to a gallon of luke warm water1 after which rinse off well and put through fresh bath as per recipe4 ,,old ,,gold4 ,all light colors1 such as light blues1 pinks1 drabs1 yellows1 etc41 that you are desirous of making old gold need but to be washed with soap and hot water prior to entering in bath4 ,prepare your bath with two ounces of turmeric and one gallon of boiling water1 more or less matters not4 ,enter your feathers1 and let them remain in bath about two minutes1 after which add a small pinch of copperas1 about the size of a bean4 ,let your feathers remain in bath about one minute longer1 after which take feathers from bath and add thereto a few drops of diluted ,bismarck brown2 let them remain in bath about one minute longer2 take them out1 cool off a small portion of the bath with cold water1 add a small handful of starch1 pass your feathers through and dry4 ,if wanted a very dark shade of gold1 a few drops of diluted logwood added to bath will have the desired effect2 and if wanted lighter1 a smaller quantity of copperas in bath4 ,if the shade be found entirely too dark for sample1 a solution of oxalic acid in luke warm water will draw off a portion of the color and brighten what is left4 ,if wanted a very yellowish shade of gold1 use more turmeric1 less copperas and no logwood1 and be particular to have your bath at all times at a boiling temperature4 ,illustration3 ,,slate--page #dg4 ,illustration3 ,,gendarme ,,blue--page #eg4 ,illustration3 ,,felt ,,drab--page #df4 ,illustration3 ,,garnet--page #dj4 ,,garnet4 ,it is not necessary to wash your feathers1 except they are very dirty and greasy4 ,as a rule all old colors1 excepting greens1 navy blues or blacks1 can be used for this color without bleaching4 ,prepare bath by boiling about one pound of logwood to a gallon of water or more about fifteen minutes2 strain off liquor from wood2 add about two tablespoonfuls of extract of archil1 and bring again to a boil4 ,enter your feathers and let them remain in bath about four or five minutes1 after which take feathers from bath1 rinse twice in clean cold water1 and dilute a small handful of starch in a little clear cold water2 pass feathers through and dry in the usual way4 ,should your color be found too dark for sample to be matched1 dilute a couple of drops of sulphuric acid in your starch bath1 and pass feathers through for a few seconds2 first1 however1 adding a little hot water to increase temperature4 ,if found lighter than the desired shade1 rinse your feathers thoroughly in cold water and dilute half an ounce of bichromate of potash in about one gallon of boiling water2 pass your feathers through for a few seconds1 rinse thoroughly and dry4 ,great care is necessary in passing feathers through this chrome bath1 as the color will oxidize very rapidly4 ,if your sample to match be more on the brown shade1 a very little archil1 not more than one-half the prescribed quantity must be used2 and if more on the purple or plum1 add more archil than the quantity specified4 ,in preparing bath1 when you have added the archil1 be careful in bringing it to boiling temperature that you do not allow it to boil any time1 as that would have a tendency to dull your color4 ,by keeping this bath clean it can be used several times1 in fact1 it improves with age2 and1 if kept in a crock1 so that it will not come in contact with any metallic substance1 and when needed just brought to boiling temperature2 and if needed1 a teaspoonful of archil added to it will produce very beautiful shades of garnet4 ,this bath can be used to make your plum colors2 and if you have an old bath of logwood on hand it is not necessary to boil a fresh one1 simply add the archil1 and bring to a boil4 ,,terra ,,cotta4 ,if white feathers1 wash and rinse them thoroughly with hot water1 and if faded out light colors1 extract color by bleaching with permanganate of potash in the usual way2 being careful to rinse well in hot water to remove all the acid used in bleaching before entering bath4 ,prepare bath as follows3 about a gallon of luke warm water1 and add a small handful of starch4 ,enter feathers1 rub around in bath between the hands1 take out and add a few drops of diluted safranine1 and copperas about the size of a pea4 ,enter feathers and let remain in bath about one minute2 take out and add about half a teaspoonful of diluted aniline brown2 re-enter feathers and let them remain in about half a minute longer2 after which dry in the usual way4 ,if found too pink for sample1 add a few drops more aniline brown1 and return to bath for a few seconds4 ,if found too yellow1 add a few drops more of diluted safranine1 and keep in bath a few seconds longer2 if wanted darker1 add a little more of each color1 and keep in bath longer4 ,,bottle ,,green4 ,after washing and rinsing feathers thoroughly1--if dirty or greasy1 extracting color if necessary1--prepare bath as follows3 ,one ounce of turmeric diluted in one gallon of boiling water2 enter your feathers and let remain in about one minute1 after which take out and rinse thoroughly4 ,prepare a weak bath of logwood1 about half a pound to the gallon of water1 or about half the usual strength of an ordinary logwood bath for black2 boil a few minutes1 after which enter your feathers and let them remain in bath about one minute2 then take out and rinse thoroughly in cold water2 after which prepare a bath of half an ounce of bichromate of potash to one gallon of boiling water4 ,dissolve bichromate of potash1 enter feathers and let them remain in about half a minute2 a little longer if a very dark shade be required1 and so much less time if a very light shade is required2 after which take feathers out and rinse thoroughly in cold water4 ,dilute about one-half a teaspoonful of aniline green in a gallon of boiling water1 and reduce temperature of bath a few degrees with cold water2 then enter feathers and let them remain in bath about two or three minutes2 remove feathers and cool off a small portion of the bath with cold water1 and add to it a small handful of starch2 pass your feathers through the bath1 squeeze out and dry off in the usual way4 ,if found to be lighter than shade desired1 rinse off starch thoroughly1 and return for a few seconds to logwood bath without increasing temperature any2 then rinse off in cold water1 and pass through a weak solution of bichromate of potash1 about one-quarter ounce to a gallon2 after which rinse1 starch and dry4 ,if found darker than shade desired1 pass feathers through a solution of half a teaspoonful of oxalic acid in about one gallon of luke warm water for about thirty seconds2 take them out of this and rinse twice through boiling water1 and then give a weak bath of aniline green1--about half the strength of the first bath4 ,if samples to be matched be more on the yellow or olive1 use decidedly more turmeric in the first bath1 and add a little1 say about a teaspoonful1 to the aniline green bath4 ,if a green on the blue1 it will be necessary to use only one-half the turmeric prescribed in the first bath4 ,,steel ,,color4 ,all light colors can be used to make a good shade of steel by first extracting colors by the usual process of bleaching with permanganate of potash2 if white and dirty1 wash thoroughly in hot water and soap and rinse4 ,prepare your bath as follows3 ,to one gallon of luke warm water add a small handful of starch2 enter your feathers1 rub them around well in bath2 after which add a small pinch of copperas and about a tablespoonful of logwood liquor1 and let remain in about one minute2 increase temperature of bath and add a few drops of diluted violet1 first removing your feathers from bath2 re-enter feathers and let remain about one minute1 or until your feathers look about four shades darker than sample2 after which take out and dry4 ,if found too light1 return to bath and add more logwood liquor and a few drops more violet1 and should you find them altogether too dark for sample1 extract your color by passing them through a solution of one teaspoonful of oxalic acid in a gallon of hot water2 after which rinse them off by passing them through a gallon of boiling water about twice1 when you will find your color reduced four or five shades4 ,the oxalic acid renders the feathers a bright yellow4 ,boiling water will draw off the logwood and bring out your shade of drab in as much milder form2 then proceed to mix a new drab bath the same as per recipe1 only using more caution not to get it too dark2 enter feathers1 bring to shade1 using a drop of violet to brighten up color4 ,be careful in drying not to use starch that has previously been used on a color where acid was used to develop4 ,illustration3 ,,steel--page #de4 ,illustration3 ,,army ,,blue--page #ei4 ,illustration3 ,,purple--page #fj4 ,illustration3 ,,maroon--page #ea4 ,,felt ,,drab4 ,prepare feathers by washing and rinsing thoroughly1 or bleaching if needed2 after which mix a bath of luke warm water and starch4 ,enter feathers and manipulate in bath a few seconds between the hands2 after which add a small quantity of copperas1 about the size of a pea4 ,enter feathers and let them remain in about half a minute2 take out feathers and add a few drops of logwood liquor2 re-enter feathers and let them remain in about half a minute2 add to bath about a drop of diluted safranine1 and if shade be wanted a little on the yellow1 a drop of diluted ,bismarck brown can be added4 ,allow feathers to remain in until they look about three shades darker than sample2 then take out and dry as usual4 ,if found either too dark or too light1 treat precisely as preceding color 7steel74 ,be careful not to use starch that has been used for an acid color4 ,,slate ,,color4 ,to make this color all light colors can be used and some dark ones2 only those1 however1 that do not contain much yellow1 as1 for example1 blues1 reds1 etc4 ,after preparing for bath by washing and rinsing1 or by extracting color if necessary1 mix a bath of logwood1 about half the usual strength1 and enter feathers4 ,bath must be at boiling temperature1 and let them remain in about one minute2 after which take out and rinse4 ,proceed to mix a bath of one quarter ounce of copperas and one gallon of boiling water2 enter feathers and let them remain in bath about half a minute2 take out and cool off a small portion of the bath1 add starch and pass feathers through1 squeeze out and dry4 ,if the color to be matched be very dark1 repeat the bath of logwood and mix a bath of one-quarter ounce of bichromate of potash in a gallon of boiling water4 ,enter feathers and let remain in about half a minute2 after which rinse off in cold water1 and starch and dry4 ,if a very brilliant shade be required1 when you have rinsed feathers from bichromate of potash bath1 wash thoroughly in soap-suds and rinse in luke warm water4 ,dilute a small quantity of starch in cold water1 pass feathers through and dry4 ,the above recipe produces a most beautiful shade of slate color1 perfectly fast to light1 and the depth of shade is regulated by the quantity of logwood4 ,should you find your color altogether too dark for sample1 proceed to extract by passing through a solution of one teaspoonful of oxalic acid to one gallon of boiling water for about half a minute1 and then rinsing off twice or three times in boiling water2 after which repeat in a milder form4 ,,orange ,,color4 ,prepare feathers by washing and rinsing thoroughly4 ,prepare bath by diluting about two ounces of turmeric in a gallon of boiling water1 and enter your feathers1 letting them remain in bath about two minutes2 then take them out and add a few drops of diluted ,bismarck brown and about a teaspoonful of oxalic acid2 re-enter your feathers and bring bath to a boil1 and let remain in about three minutes2 after which take out1 and cool off a small quantity of bath1 add a small handful of starch1 pass feathers through and dry4 ,should you desire a very full dark shade1 use about twice the amount of turmeric1 add a few drops more ,bismarck brown2 and if wanted much lighter1 use less of each color4 ,if wanted more yellow1 use very small quantity of ,bismarck brown2 and if a very reddish shade of orange1 a little more ,bismarck brown than amount prescribed in recipe4 ,there are numerous orange anilines in the market that are used successfully in dyeing shades of orange1 but it is almost necessary to have a different shade of aniline for every shade of color made4 ,should your sample to be matched be rather dull1 use no oxalic acid in bath1 as the oxalic acid is used in developing and brightening the shade4 ,to remove the color1 should it be too dark1 the first method is to wash well in soap water1 rinse and pass through a solution of oxalic acid in warm water1 about half an ounce to the gallon4 ,,scarlet4 ,wash and rinse your feathers thoroughly1 and if required to remove a surplus of any old color1 pass through a bath of permanganate of potash1 as per recipe2 after which prepare a bath of half a teaspoonful of oxalic acid to one gallon of boiling water and about a teaspoonful of turmeric2 enter feathers and let them remain in bath about half a minute1 after which take them out and add to bath about half a teaspoonful of rocceline2 dissolve powder thoroughly1 and return to bath2 let them remain in about one minute longer1 then cool off a small quantity of the bath and add a small handful of starch2 pass your feathers through1 squeeze out and dry as usual4 ,if wanted a very dark shade1 add a little more rocceline and let remain longer in bath4 ,if shade be a little on the orange1 use more turmeric and less rocceline2 and if more on the cardinal1 vice versa4 ,should you1 through carelessness1 get your color too dark1 to remove color rinse off and wash thoroughly in a soap bath1 and rinse off in boiling water about twice1 which will have the effect of reducing the color several shades2 mix a new bath as per recipe1 and enter feathers1 using more care and judgment and proceed to starch and dry as called for in recipe4 ,,maroon4 ,almost any odd shades of color can be used without extracting colors1 but if dirty or greasy1 it is always best to wash thoroughly and rinse4 ,take your old logwood bath that has been used for black and other colors1 or else boil a fresh bath of the same proportions1 about a pound to the gallon4 ,when at boiling temperature add thereto a half cupful of extract of archil1 first removing the grounds of logwood from the bath2 then enter your feathers and let them remain in the bath about four or five minutes2 take them out and rinse thoroughly in cold water1 and prepare a bath of one-half ounce of bichromate of potash to a gallon of boiling water1 and thoroughly dissolve potash2 after which pass your goods through for a few seconds only1 and take out and rinse twice in cold water2 dilute a small handful of starch in clean cold water1 pass feathers through and dry4 ,should a very dark shade be required1 allow your feathers to remain in bichromate of potash bath a few seconds longer2 take out and dry4 ,should you find your color too dark for sample1 it is only necessary to add to your starch bath a few drops of sulphuric acid1 and add a small quantity of hot water to increase temperature a few degrees1 and pass feathers through4 ,this bath1 same as the garnet1 can be used again1 and improves with age if kept in a clean place4 ,if you have an old garnet bath on hand1 it will answer for maroon by bringing to a boil and adding about a teaspoonful more extract of archil to it4 ,illustration3 ,,stone--page #gc4 ,illustration3 ,,coffee--page #gi4 ,illustration3 ,,bottle ,,green--page #dc4 ,illustration3 ,,olive ,,brown--page #ha4 ,,lemon ,,color4 ,wash and rinse your feathers thoroughly if dirty whites2 if old faded out light colors1 bleach with permanganate of potash2 after which prepare bath as follows3 ,one gallon of luke warm water and a handful of starch2 enter your feathers and rub around between the hands for a few seconds2 then add to bath a teaspoonful of oxalic acid1 and dilute about a tablespoonful of turmeric in a small quantity of water1 and add a few drops of the liquor to the bath2 re-enter your feathers and let them remain in about one minute or so2 after which take them out and add a drop of diluted indigo blue2 return feathers to bath and allow them to remain about one minute longer in bath1 after which take out1 squeeze and dry usual4 ,if a deep rich shade be desired1 and you have no sample to match1 use no indigo in the bath4 ,another excellent method of making lemon is to substitute an equal amount of picric acid for turmeric2 and1 should you find your color entirely too dark for your sample1 rinse off your feathers in luke warm water1 and proceed to wash with soap and hot water1 and rinse thoroughly in boiling water2 then prepare a fresh bath as per recipe1 and enter your feathers1 using much care4 ,if found too light for your sample1 add to bath a little more turmeric liquor1 and return feathers to bath for a few seconds longer1 and dry4 ,,black4 ,the most staple and important of all the colors4 ,some will argue that it is not a color2 ,i1 to the contrary1 however1 that it is not only a color1 but a combination of colors1 and it is the knowledge of how to properly combine them that results in the production of a very handsome and glossy black4 ,twelve years ago a bath of black that was commenced on ,monday and was ready to go into the drying-room by ,saturday was considered at that time a most expeditious piece of work2 and1 even up to the present time1 some of our old orthodox dyers1--those old chronic1 methodical dyers1--those who dye according to the most approved and advantageous methods of half a century ago1--still continue to occupy the greater part of a week in getting a black on what 7by that time7 is left of the feathers4 ,their object from the start is to produce a black1 and they generally succeed4 ,begin1 if raw stock1 by washing and rinsing thoroughly in order to remove all natural grease and dirt adhering to the fibre4 ,if they are old colors to be redyed a black1 it is not necessary to wash them nor to bleach them for the purpose of removing any of the color1 as the black bath will overcome all the other colors2 as1 for example1 a navy blue1 a bottle green1 garnet1 etc41 can be all entered at the same time1 and put through precisely the same process1 and they will all be the same shade of black when they are dried4 ,prepare bath by diluting a quarter pound of turmeric in a gallon of boiling water and bring to a boil2 after which enter your feathers1 and let remain in bath about five minutes1 keeping them well under the surface1 and gently moving while in bath2 after which take feathers out and rinse twice in clear cold water4 ,meantime dilute one pound of logwood in about one and a half gallons of boiling water1 and boil for about fifteen minutes2 after which enter your feathers and let them remain in bath about four minutes2 then take out and rinse thoroughly in two waters4 ,dilute one ounce of bichromate of potash in one gallon1 more or less1 of boiling water1 enough to completely cover up your feathers1 dissolving bichromate of potash thoroughly4 ,enter your feathers1 let them remain in bath about three minutes2 after which take them out and rinse thoroughly4 ,meantime have logwood bath boiling1 and return feathers to it4 ,cover up1 and let them remain about eight minutes2 take out and rinse twice as before4 ,after rinsing1 prepare a bath of about half an ounce of bichromate of potash and salts of tartar about the size of a pea in a gallon of boiling water2 dissolve thoroughly4 ,let them remain in bath about three minutes2 after which take out and rinse thoroughly in cold water4 ,then mix a bath of hot soap-suds1 and enter feathers2 wash well and rinse in luke warm water4 ,the washing and rinsing is not absolutely necessary1 in fact1 it can not much improve what is already a clean1 glossy black4 ,washing1 however1 if productive of a change at all1 must be beneficial4 ,then proceed to mix a small handful of starch in a small quantity of cold water2 pass feathers through and dry4 ,while your feathers are in the bichromate of potash bath1 they must be kept moving in bath constantly and well under the surface4 ,there is nothing to be added to make a successful result1 except it be to caution you to adhere as strictly as possible to the recipe4 ,it often occurs that feathers are brought in to be dipped over that have faded out1 or have grown rusty looking from exposure to light and long wear4 ,the color can be restored by simply passing them through the last two baths for the same length of time that is allotted to the regular recipe4 ,during the process of drying black be sure to have the starch beaten out as fast as it dries4 ,it is best to dry them in the open air1 and1 if possible1 allow them to hang in the sun for a while1 as it improves the color4 ,one especial advantage this black has over most others1 is that it improves with age2 and1 instead of fading1 the black will grow more intense4 ,,lilac4 ,wash and rinse thoroughly in hot soap water1 and rinse in about four waters to remove any particle of soap that may adhere to the feathers2 next prepare bath of one gallon of hand warm water1 and add a handful of starch4 ,enter feathers and rub thoroughly between the hands2 remove and add to bath a few drops of diluted violet1 according to shade required2 add about two drops of diluted saffranine1 and re-enter feathers1 let remain in bath about three minutes1 squeeze out and dry in powdered starch in the usual way4 ,be sure your starch is clean and free from acid1 and also that your board is in the same condition4 ,great care should be exercised to see that every particle of the violet is dissolved to avoid spots on the feathers4 ,should quite a bluish shade be desired1 a drop of diluted aniline green added will produce the desired result4 ,,gendarme ,,blue4 ,prepare feathers by washing thoroughly1 and rinse about four times in hot water to remove any particle of soap that may adhere to the feathers4 ,prepare a bath of a teaspoonful of indigotine powder to one gallon of boiling water4 ,mix thoroughly and enter feathers1 and let remain in about one minute1 after which remove and add about one teaspoonful of oxalic acid or same quantity of sulphuric acid1 and re-enter feathers1 letting them remain in bath about five minutes longer2 then remove from bath and cool off4 ,reserve a small portion of bath1 and cool off with cold water1 adding a drop of sulphuric acid and a small handful of starch2 pass feathers through and dry in powdered starch by rubbing between the hands or by simply beating out on a clean board1 used only for drying acid colors4 ,should you find your color too dark1 thoroughly rinse off all the starch and pass feathers through a bath of boiling water and let remain about half a minute2 pass through starch bath and dry4 ,if found too light1 simply increase temperature of bath by adding boiling water and few drops more indigotine2 re-enter feathers and let them remain in bath a couple of minutes longer4 ,illustration3 ,,olive--page #cf4 ,illustration3 ,,plain1 ,,drab--page #gh4 ,illustration3 ,,terra ,,cotta--page #db4 ,illustration3 ,,plum--page #ce4 ,,trileul4 ,wash and rinse feathers thoroughly in hot water and soap1 and rinse thoroughly in about four hot waters2 then pass through a bath of plain boiling water2 next prepare a bath of one gallon of luke warm water1 and add a handful of starch4 ,enter feathers and rub thoroughly between the hands2 remove and add a teaspoonful of oxalic acid2 enter feathers and let them remain in bath about two minutes2 then remove and add to bath a few drops of diluted picric acid1 and re-enter feathers2 let remain in about one minute longer1 take out and dry in the usual way by rubbing in powdered starch between the hands and beating out on a clean board until all the starch has been removed from the fibre4 ,should you find your color a shade too dark1 mix a luke warm starch bath1 and pass feathers through1 keeping them under about half a minute1 and dry as usual4 ,be careful that your picric acid is thoroughly dissolved1 as otherwise it will be likely to spot your feathers1 if the particles come in contact with the flues1 and the spots are very hard to remove1 as it would be necessary to put them through a bleaching process4 ,,army ,,blue4 ,prepare feathers by washing and rinsing thoroughly in hot water4 ,be careful about rinsing to remove every particle of soap that may adhere to the fibre1 after which prepare bath as follows3 ,one teaspoonful of indigotine powder1 diluted in one gallon of boiling water1 and add thereto about half a teaspoonful of oxalic acid1 stirring around well to thoroughly dissolve every particle of color4 ,enter feathers and let them remain in bath about four minutes2 after which take out and rinse in luke warm water to remove the acid in feathers2 next prepare a bath of one gallon of hand warm water and add a small handful of starch2 add thereto a cupful of boiled logwood liquor and a few grains of copperas1 enter feathers1 let remain in bath about three minutes2 take out and dry by rubbing between the hands in powdered starch1 and beat out on a clean board until all the starch has been removed4 ,should you find your color darker than shade required1 prepare a bath of half a teaspoonful of oxalic acid in a gallon of hand warm water1 and pass feathers through about half a minute2 take out and pass through boiling water1 after which pass through starch bath and dry4 ,should you find shade too light1 add more logwood to bath1 increase temperature1 let remain in a couple of minutes longer and dry4 ,,purple4 ,prepare feathers by washing in hot water and soap thoroughly1 and afterwards rinse in about four hot waters to remove every particle of soap and dirt2 after which prepare bath as follows3 ,take one gallon of water about #bjj ,fah42 dilute therein half a teaspoonful of ,violet #c ,b41 stirring it around thoroughly to dissolve every particle4 ,enter your feathers and let remain about five minutes2 after which take out and pour out the bath1 reserving some1 and cooling it off with cold1 clean water1 add a small handful of starch and pass feathers through1 first cooling them off by shaking them in the air2 rub them between the hands in starch bath to aid the flue or fibre to expand2 after which squeeze out and rub thoroughly between the hands1 and beat out on a clean board until every particle of starch has been removed4 ,should you find the top or tips a darker shade than the bottom1 or should they bronze or assume a metallic appearance1 pass feathers through a bowl of boiling water with a small pinch of soda added1 and rinse2 after which pass through a new starch bath with a few drops of diluted violet added2 take out and dry4 ,,medium ,,green4 ,prepare your feathers same as for bottle green4 ,prepare bath by diluting about one ounce of turmeric in a gallon of boiling water1 and enter feathers1 letting them remain in bath about two minutes2 after which take out and rinse in cold water twice4 ,have boiling a medium strong bath of logwood1 and pass feathers through for a few seconds1 first cooling off temperature of logwood bath a few degrees with cold water2 after which rinse off thoroughly1 and prepare a bath of a quarter of an ounce of bichromate of potash in a gallon of boiling water1 dissolve it thoroughly1 and enter feathers2 let them remain in this bath about ten seconds1 and take them out and rinse thoroughly in cold water4 ,proceed to dilute one teaspoonful of turmeric and a half teaspoonful of aniline green in a gallon of boiling water1 and reduce temperature a few degrees with cold water4 ,enter your feathers1 and let them remain in bath about three minutes2 then take them out and cool off a small portion of bath1 and add a small handful of starch1 and dry in the usual way4 ,if found to be too dark1 add a few drops of diluted oxalic acid to starch bath1 and pass your feathers through for a few seconds4 ,if found too light1 rinse off the starch in cold water and return to logwood bath for a few seconds1 without increasing the temperature any1 and rinse off and give a weak bath of bichromate of potash1 rinse off and dry4 ,,beige4 ,prepare your feathers by washing and rinsing thoroughly1 or if old light colors1 bleach with permanganate of potash1 being sure to rinse out in hot water to remove acid from feathers1 before putting in bath4 ,dilute a small quantity of starch in a gallon of boiling water1 and enter your feathers1 rubbing them around in bath between the hands to expands the flues and admit the color evenly on feathers4 ,after which add to bath a small pinch of copperas1 about the size of a bean1 and about a teaspoonful of turmeric1 and enter your feathers1 letting them remain in bath about one minute2 take them out1 and add about a teaspoonful of logwood liquor2 re-enter your feathers1 and let them remain in bath about one minute1 first increasing the temperature by adding hot water2 after which remove feathers from bath1 and add thereto a few drops of diluted ,bismarck brown4 ,to bring the ecru tint desired1 a few seconds before taking feathers from bath to dry1 add a couple of drops of diluted violet1 squeeze out and dry4 ,if a very dark shade of beige is wanted use a greater amount of logwood and ,bismarck brown1 and if lighter shade is desired1 less color should be used4 ,should your color be found altogether too dark for sample1 dilute about half a teaspoonful of oxalic acid in a gallon of hot water1 more or less4 ,pass your feathers through for a few seconds1 and rinse off twice in luke warm water and once in boiling water4 ,then mix a fresh bath of luke warm water and starch1 and add thereto a small proportion of turmeric and diluted ,bismarck brown1 and copperas about the size of a pea4 ,enter your feathers1 and1 using care1 bring to the desired shade4 ,illustration3 ,,navy ,,blue--page #ca4 ,illustration3 ,,magenta--page #fi4 ,illustration3 ,,pea ,,green--page #hj4 ,illustration3 ,,bronze--page #gd4 ,,corn ,,color4 ,prepare feathers by washing and rinsing thoroughly if dirty greasy whites1 or bleach with permanganate of potash if faded out light colors4 ,prepare your bath as follows3 ,take one gallon of luke warm water and dilute therein a small handful of starch1 and rub your feathers around between the hands4 ,add about a half teaspoonful of turmeric and dilute well in bath4 ,enter your feathers and rub around well between the hands4 ,increase the temperature of your bath by adding hot water1 and allow your feathers to remain in bath about one minute2 then take them out and add a couple of drops of diluted aniline brown2 re-enter feathers and let them remain in bath about one minute longer2 then squeeze out and dry as usual4 ,if your shade to match be considerably on the yellow shade1 use very little aniline brown1 about one drop1 and if more on the brown1 use less turmeric4 ,if your color be entirely too dark and dull looking1 dilute half a teaspoonful of oxalic acid1 and pass feathers through for a few seconds and rinse off in luke warm water4 ,prepare a fresh bath and enter your feathers1 as per recipe2 or1 if wanted a very bright shade1 wash off with soap and hot water1 and rinse thoroughly in hot water4 ,then prepare a bath of one teaspoonful of turmeric1 one teaspoonful of oxalic acid and one teaspoonful of diluted ,bismarck brown in a gallon of luke warm water4 ,enter your feathers and keep in bath about two minutes1 add a little starch to bath1 and pass feathers through for a few seconds longer1 squeeze out and dry in the usual way4 ,,electric ,,blue4 ,feathers must be white1 or nearly so1 to make a good clear shade of electric blue4 ,prepare your feathers by washing with soap and hot water if dirty whites1 and if old1 faded light colors bleach with permanganate of potash4 ,prepare your bath as follows3 ,take half a teaspoonful of cotton blue and a half teaspoonful of oxalic acid1--a little more or less matters not1--in a gallon of boiling water4 ,enter your feathers1 and let them remain in bath about five minutes2 after which take out and rinse twice in cold water and once in hot water to remove all acid and loose color4 ,prepare a bath of about one cupful of logwood liquor and a small pinch of copperas in a gallon of hot water1 not quite boiling1 however1 and pass feathers through for a couple of minutes4 ,cool off a little of your bath1 and add a small handful of starch and a few drops of violet1 pass feathers through and dry4 ,,medium ,,brown4 ,all light colors can be made a handsome shade of medium brown without removing the color by bleaching or without washing1 unless very dirty and greasy4 ,prepare your bath by diluting about two ounces of turmeric and a half ounce of copperas in one gallon1 more or less1 of boiling water4 ,enter your feathers1 keep them well under the surface of bath1 and let them remain therein about two minutes2 after which take out1 rinse twice in cold water4 ,have boiling meantime a medium strong bath of logwood1 about the same proportion as for black2 boil about fifteen minutes1 and enter your feathers1 allowing them to remain in about one minute2 after which take out and rinse off twice in cold water2 then dilute about a half teaspoonful of aniline brown in a gallon of boiling water1 and after dissolving well1 enter your feathers1 and let them remain in bath about two minutes2 take out and rinse in cold water2 after which dilute a small handful of starch in a small quantity of luke warm water1 and add to that a couple of drops of sulphuric acid2 pass feathers through for a few seconds1 squeeze out and dry4 ,should your color be too dark to match sample1 return to starch bath1 add a few drops of sulphuric acid1 let feathers remain in about half a minute1 and dry4 ,if a darker shade is wanted1 it is necessary to rinse off starch in cold water1 and return your feathers to logwood bath for a few seconds1 rinse off and repeat ,bismarck brown bath as before4 ,by this process1 with a little judgment1 all shades of brown can be produced in the most satisfactory manner4 ,,medium ,,blue4 ,prepare your feathers by washing and rinsing thoroughly in hot water2 light faded out colors need not be bleached1 but thoroughly washed in hot soap suds instead4 ,prepare your bath as follows3 ,take one teaspoonful of concentrated cotton blue and one teaspoonful of oxalic acid1 dilute it in one gallon of boiling water4 ,be careful to see that the blue crystals are well dissolved4 ,enter your feathers1 and let them remain in bath about four minutes1 keeping them well under the surface4 ,meantime keep them gently agitated to insure an even color2 after which take out1 rinse1 starch and dry4 ,if your feathers be found too dark for sample1 or too much on the purple1 rinse off1 starch in cold water thoroughly1 and pass through a bowl of boiling water1 starch and dry1 using a few grains of oxalic acid diluted in starch bath4 ,if a very light shade be desired1 use but half the quantity of cotton blue1 and do not allow them to remain in bath quite so long a time4 ,if a much darker shade be required than the foregoing recipe will produce1 then rinse off your feathers thoroughly in cold water1 to remove all starch1 and pass feathers through a medium strong bath of logwood at boiling temperature for a few seconds1 and rinse off twice in cold water2 dilute a half ounce of bichromate of potash in a gallon of boiling water1 and pass your feathers through for a few seconds only2 rinse1 starch and dry4 ,should you get your color too dark by this process1 pass your feathers through a solution of half a teaspoonful of oxalic acid in a gallon of boiling water1 and rinse off in boiling water twice2 then dilute a small quantity of starch in luke warm water1 add a few grains of oxalic acid to it1 pass feathers through and dry as usual4 ,,magenta4 ,prepare your feathers1 whether dirty whites or faded out light colors1 by washing thoroughly in hot soap suds and rinsing well in hot water4 ,prepare your bath as follows3 ,take about a half teaspoonful of safranine and dilute in one gallon1 more or less1 of boiling water1 and add thereto a half tablespoonful of extract of archil4 ,enter your feathers and let them remain in bath about two minutes2 after which take out and add to bath a few drops of diluted violet1 and re-enter your feathers1 letting them remain in bath about one minute longer4 ,then take out and rinse in cold water1 and dilute a small handful of starch in bowl of luke warm water2 pass feathers through and dry4 ,if found too red for sample1 rinse off and add to bath a tablespoonful of extract of archil2 return feathers to bath for about one minute1 first1 however1 increasing temperature2 next rinse1 starch and dry4 ,if found to be too much on the plum for sample1 rinse off and add to bath about a quarter teaspoonful of safranine1 increase temperature of bath to almost boiling2 enter feathers and let them remain in bath about one minute2 after which rinse1 starch and dry4 ,if found to be too light1 add a few drops of diluted violet to bath2 and1 if too dark1 dilute a half teaspoonful of oxalic acid in one gallon of luke warm water1 and pass feathers through for a few seconds1 rinse off twice or more in boiling water2 then prepare bath same as per recipe1 and allow them to remain until desired shade is obtained4 ,illustration3 ,,black--page #ec4 ,illustration3 ,,electric ,,blue--page #fe4 ,illustration3 ,,scarlet--page #ej4 ,illustration3 ,,moss--page #gf4 ,,sea ,,foam4 ,this is a very delicate shade of color bordering on pea green4 ,your feathers must be white1 or nearly so4 ,if dirty whites1 wash and rinse thoroughly2 and1 if old faded out colors1 pass through bleach of permanganate of potash2 after which prepare your bath of one gallon of luke warm water and a small handful of starch1 and enter your feathers1 rubbing them around between the hands4 ,take feathers from bath and add about a half teaspoonful of turmeric2 re-enter your feathers1 keeping them moving around in bath about half a minute4 ,then take out your feathers and add to bath a couple of drops of diluted aniline green4 ,re-enter feathers1 first increasing the temperature of your bath a few degrees by adding hot water1 let them remain in bath about two minutes longer1 squeeze out and dry in the usual way4 ,should your sample be more on the green1 you will simply add a few drops more diluted aniline green2 and if more on the yellow1 you can use less4 ,if the shade to be matched be darker than your feathers1 add more of each color in the preparation of first bath4 ,if a rather dull shade be desired1 which in this color is quite frequently the case1 a small pinch of copperas about the size of a pea will have the desired effect4 ,should you find your color entirely too dark for your sample1 wash off thoroughly in soap suds1 and rinse in hot water2 after which dilute a half teaspoonful of oxalic acid in a gallon of luke warm water1 pass feathers through for a few seconds and rinse off in luke warm water4 ,then prepare your bath as per recipe1 using a little more care and judgment in your second attempt4 ,,salmon4 ,have your feathers white1 or nearly so1 by washing if dirty1 or bleaching with permanganate if needed1 being careful to rinse thoroughly for the purpose of removing any acid or soap2 after which prepare your bath as follows3 ,take one gallon of luke warm water and a small handful of starch4 ,enter your feathers and rub around between the hands for a few seconds2 then add to bath a few drops of diluted safranine and copperas about the size of a pea4 ,let your feathers remain in bath about one minute2 after which take out and add to bath about one teaspoonful of diluted ,bismarck brown1 first increasing temperature of bath a few degrees with hot water2 re-enter your feathers and allow them to remain in bath about a minute2 after which squeeze out and dry in the usual way4 ,if your sample to be matched be more on the pink1 use less aniline brown2 and if more on the yellow1 use less safranine and more aniline brown4 ,should you desire a much darker shade1 use more of each color than laid down in recipe1 and add a few drops of logwood liquor4 ,if your feathers be found altogether too dark for sample1 rinse off starch in cold water and dilute a half teaspoonful of oxalic acid in luke warm water1 and pass your feathers through for a few seconds1 take out and rinse a couple of times in hot water 7not boiling74 ,prepare bath again as per recipe1 using greater care4 ,this shade of color is on the order of the terra cotta and crushed strawberry1 and can be made in the same bath by adding color or diluting4 ,be careful in drying to use only clean starch and a clean board that has not been used with any acid colors4 ,,stone ,,color4 ,stone color is a shade varying very slightly from slate and smoke color4 ,all light shades can be used for this color2 first preparing them by washing and rinsing them thoroughly4 ,prepare a medium strong bath of logwood by boiling for about fifteen minutes2 after which enter your feathers1 and let them remain in bath about two or three minutes1 longer if a very dark shade be required2 then take them out and rinse in cold water twice4 ,prepare a bath of half ounce of bichromate of potash in one gallon of boiling water1 and dissolve thoroughly4 ,enter your feathers1 and let them remain in bath about two minutes1 keeping them well under the surface of bath and moving at the same time1 to assist in producing an even color2 after which take out and rinse off about three times in cold water1 and prepare a bath of hot soap water4 ,enter your feathers1 and wash thoroughly1 adding to bath a small pinch of soda2 after which rinse carefully in hot water2 dissolve a small handful of starch in cold water1 pass your feathers through1 squeeze out and dry in the usual way4 ,if your feathers be found much too light for your sample to be matched1 rinse off starch in cold water1 and return your feathers to logwood bath for a few seconds2 dissolve a small pinch of copperas in a gallon of boiling water1 reduce temperature a little and enter your feathers1 letting them remain in bath a few seconds4 ,take out and pass through starch and dry4 ,if found to be altogether too dark1 dilute a teaspoonful of oxalic acid in a gallon of hot water2 pass feathers through a few seconds and rinse off in boiling water twice2 wash1 starch and dry4 ,,bronze4 ,wash and rinse thoroughly1 using soap for washing1 and rinse out in hot water about four times2 after which prepare a bath of one quarter pound of turmeric to one gallon of boiling water4 ,enter feathers and let remain in bath about three minutes2 take out and rinse4 ,boil a bath of half pound of logwood to one gallon of water about ten minutes2 enter feathers and let remain in bath about four minutes2 take out and rinse4 ,then prepare a bath of half an ounce of bichromate of potash and one gallon of boiling water1 and let feathers remain in bath about two minutes1 take out and rinse4 ,next prepare a bath of one quarter pound of turmeric and one-quarter teaspoonful of ,victoria green crystals1 and add one gallon of boiling water4 ,enter feathers and let remain in bath about four minutes2 take out1 cool off a small portion of the bath and add a small handful of starch4 ,pass feathers through and dry in powdered starch by pressing between the hands2 then beat on a board or table until all the starch is removed from the feather4 ,,chocolate4 ,prepare your feathers by washing and rinsing thoroughly2 and1 if necessary1 bleach with permanganate of potash4 ,after doing this1 rinse thoroughly in hot water for the purpose of removing all acid from the fibre4 ,prepare your bath of one gallon of water at boiling temperature2 add thereto a teaspoonful of turmeric and a small pinch of copperas about the size of a bean4 ,enter your feathers and allow them to remain in bath about one minute or longer4 ,take out your feathers1 and add to bath about one tablespoonful of diluted ,bismarck ,brown and a few drops of diluted violet2 re-enter your feathers1 and let them remain in bath about three minutes1 keeping them meanwhile well under the surface of the bath2 after which take them out1 cool off a small portion of the bath1 and add thereto a small handful of starch2 pass your feathers through and dry in the usual way4 ,if a very dark shade be required1 you will add to bath about a tablespoonful of logwood liquor at the same time you add the violet1 and allow them to remain in bath a little longer4 ,should you find your color entirely too dark for your sample to be matched1 rinse off starch in cold water2 dilute about a half teaspoonful of oxalic acid in a gallon or more of hot water4 ,pass your feathers through1 and rinse off in luke warm water twice2 then pass your feathers through a bath of boiling water1 for the purpose of effectively removing the acid2 after which prepare again as called for in recipe1 using a little more care1 and the desired result will be obtained4 ,illustration3 ,,seal ,,brown--page #bi4 ,illustration3 ,,crushed ,,strawb',y--page #cd4 ,illustration3 ,,orange--page #dh4 ,illustration3 ,,bismarck ,,brown--page #bh4 ,,moss ,,color4 ,wash your feathers and rinse thoroughly4 ,prepare your bath of quarter pound of turmeric and a half ounce of copperas diluted in a gallon or more of boiling water4 ,enter your feathers and let them remain in bath about two minutes2 after which take out and rinse twice in cold water4 ,meantime have a medium strong bath of logwood boiling1 and enter your feathers1 letting them remain in about one minute1 take out and rinse4 ,then prepare a bath of about two ounces of turmeric and a small pinch of aniline green in a gallon of boiling water4 ,enter your feathers and allow them to remain in bath about three minutes or longer4 ,take out and cool off a small quantity of bath with cold water2 add a small handful of starch1 pass your feathers through and dry4 ,if your color be found too much on the green for your sample to be matched1 add to starch bath a few drops of sulphuric acid2 or1 instead1 rinse off starch and mix a bath of two ounces of turmeric in a gallon of boiling water2 pass your feathers through for a minute or so1 starch and dry4 ,if found to be too much on the yellow or olive1 add to your bath a few grains of aniline green1 and return them to the same for a few seconds1 first rinsing off starch in cold water4 ,if found too light1 pass for a few seconds through a weak bath of bichromate of potash2 and if too dark1 dilute a few grains of oxalic acid in hot water1 and add to your starch bath a few drops4 ,pass your feathers through for a few seconds and dry in the usual way4 ,,plain ,,drab4 ,if your feathers are old1 dirty whites1 wash and rinse them thoroughly4 ,if light colors1 remove the same by passing through permanganate of potash process1 and use great care in rinsing to remove all the acid before entering in bath4 ,prepare your bath with one gallon of luke warm water and a small handful of starch2 enter your feathers and rub them around well in bath between the hands to expand the fibres4 ,take out your feathers1 and add to bath a small piece of copperas about the size of a bean and about a quarter cupful of logwood liquor2 re-enter your feathers1 and let them remain in bath a few minutes1 meantime adding a small quantity of hot water to increase temperature of bath2 then add a couple of drops of diluted safranine to bath1 let remain in bath one minute longer1 squeeze out and dry as usual4 ,if wanted more on the shade of felt drab1 use1 instead of safranine1 a few drops of ,bismarck brown2 and if wanted more on the steel1 use a few drops of diluted violet in bath4 ,if a darker shade should be desired1 use only a little more logwood liquor1 and allow them to remain a short time in bath4 ,should you find your color to be altogether too dark for sample to be matched1 rinse off starch1 and dilute a half teaspoonful of oxalic acid in hot water2 pass your feathers through1 rinse off a couple of times in luke warm water and lastly through boiling water1 for the purpose of removing all acid4 ,then prepare a fresh bath according to recipe1 and pass through until you have obtained the desired shade4 ,,coffee ,,color4 ,old faded out light colors need only to be thoroughly washed and rinsed to prepare them for this color2 and darker colors can be prepared by bleaching with permanganate of potash1 taking care to rinse thoroughly in hot water for the purpose of removing all the acid4 ,prepare your bath of about one teaspoonful of turmeric and copperas about the size of a bean in a gallon of boiling water4 ,enter your feathers and let remain in bath about two minutes2 remove feathers from bath and add a half cupful of logwood liquor and return feathers to bath1 letting them remain in about one minute2 after which remove feathers and add to your bath about two tablespoonfuls of diluted ,bismarck brown and hot water to increase temperature of bath2 re-enter feathers and allow them to remain in about two minutes2 after which cool off a small quantity of the bath and add a small handful of starch2 pass feathers through and dry4 ,if found to be too light1 return to bath1 first adding more logwood liquor and ,bismarck brown1 and let them remain in bath about one minute4 ,if too dark for your sample to be matched1 dilute a few grains of oxalic acid in luke warm water2 pass feathers through for a few seconds and rinse off three times in luke warm water4 ,then prepare bath as per recipe1 using more care in the preparation4 ,if found too much on the yellow1 a few drops of diluted safranine added to your bath will produce the desired effect4 ,use clean starch in drying2 if a table or board is used1 see that it is perfectly clean and free from acid4 ,,pea ,,green4 ,prepare your feathers by washing thoroughly in hot water1 and rinse thoroughly to remove any soap that may adhere to the feathers4 ,then prepare a bath by diluting a handful of starch in a half gallon of hand warm water1 and rub feathers around between the hands4 ,remove feathers and a add a few drops of diluted ,victoria green and a couple of drops of diluted picric acid4 ,enter feathers1 letting them remain in bath about two minutes1 keeping them well under the surface to insure an even color4 ,if wanted a shade more on the yellow1 add a drop more of picric acid2 and if more on the blue1 leave the picric acid out entirely4 ,take out and dry in starch1 being careful to beat out on a clean board in the usual way4 ,,olive ,,brown4 ,wash feathers thoroughly in hot water and soap1 and rinse about four times in hot water2 after which prepare a bath of half a pound of logwood2 first enter feathers in one-quarter pound of turmeric and one gallon of boiling water2 let them remain in bath about four minutes4 ,when logwood bath has boiled sufficiently1 say ten minutes1 rinse feathers out of turmeric in cold water2 and enter in logwood1 letting them remain in bath about six minutes2 take out and rinse4 ,prepare a bath of half an ounce of bichromate of potash and one gallon of boiling water2 enter feathers and let remain in bath about one minute2 take out and rinse thoroughly in cold water4 ,mix a bath of one ounce of turmeric to one ounce of archil and half the old logwood bath2 bring to a boil and enter feathers1 letting them remain in bath about six minutes2 take out and rinse4 ,then mix a bath of luke warm water and starch1 add a couple of drops of sulphuric acid and a couple of drops of picric acid diluted1 pass feathers through1 squeeze out thoroughly and dry by rubbing in powdered starch between the hands2 beat out on a clean board until all the starch is removed from the feathers4 ,illustration3 ,,medium ,,brown--page #ff4 ,illustration3 ,,old-,,gold--page #ci4 ,illustration3 ,,cardinal--page #cc4 ,illustration3 ,,medium ,,green--page #fa4 ,,process ,,of ,,degrading ,,or ,,bleaching ,,natural ,,gray ,,or ,,black ,,white4 ,begin by washing and rinsing your feathers thoroughly2 after which soak in a bath of compound of one gallon of ammonia to eight gallons of water for about eight hours2 take feathers out and squeeze out the excess of ammonia which is in the flues4 ,put your feathers in the peroxide of hydrogen with an addition of twelve to sixteen ounces of ammonia to one five gallon can or demijohn1 and let it work slowly1 stirring feathers from time to time for about six hours2 after which lay your feathers on one side of the tub and add to the peroxide of hydrogen bath about four ounces more of ammonia2 stir the bath well to insure a thorough mixture of the peroxide of hydrogen with the ammonia4 ,the peroxide of hydrogen will continue to work for about twelve hours more1 until it becomes thoroughly exhausted2 after which take out your feathers and rinse a few times in luke warm water4 ,then proceed to put them in a second bath of peroxide of hydrogen to be prepared as follows3 ,to a half gallon demijohn of peroxide of hydrogen add two and a half gallons of water1 and add thereto about eight ounces of ammonia4 ,then enter your feathers1 and allow the bath to work a few hours2 again add about two ounces of ammonia by the same process as before1 and then let it work a few hours longer1 or until the bath becomes exhausted4 ,to ascertain whether total exhaustion has taken place1 take a small portion of the bath in a glass and dilute therein a few grains of permanganate of potash2 if it be not totally exhausted1 bubbles will appear on the surface2 if exhausted1 none will be noticeable4 ,after your feathers have been removed from the bath they must be carefully rinsed off in three or four waters1 a few degrees more than luke warm4 ,then prepare a warm soap bath1 and allow your feathers to remain in a few minutes2 after which rinse off thoroughly in luke warm water2 dilute a small handful of starch in a quantity of cold water1 pass your feathers through and dry4 ,all natural color will have entirely disappeared4 ,whatever portion of the amount of feathers you have just bleached are for whites1 before drying them up1 prepare a bath as per recipe for white1 pass through and dry in the usual way4 ,this process of bleaching is used only when it is desirable to make light colors from gray or natural black feathers1 but feathers for navy blue1 seal brown1 bottle green1 etc41 will not be improved by bleaching4 ,the shade of color can be evened off in the bath4 ,,hints ,,about ,,the ,,dyehouse4 ,in dyehouses where steam is used1 it is necessary to boil your bath a longer time than where the bath comes in direct contact with the fire4 ,the accommodations of a dyehouse for the re-dying of ostrich feathers need be very simple and inexpensive2 in fact1 ,i have seen a dyehouse where old re-dyed transient work to the amount of fifty dollars per day was accomplished with a small cooking stove1 a wash-boiler1 a wash-bowl and a tin dipper2 costing in all less than six dollars4 ,of course1 in the manufacture of raw stock it is necessary to have larger vessels and much better facilities2 for instance1 instead of from ten to fifty1 or even a hundred feathers1 you will of necessity be compelled to dye lots of from five to ten pounds of goods at one time4 ,two stationary tubs or vats1 one for use in washing white and bleaching1 and the other for black1 with water pipes and steam pipes and connections2 a few large porcelain lined or copper basins for dark colors are essential2 it is also well to have an outer room or inclosed closet to keep your dyestuffs in1 as it is important that they be kept clean4 ,when cans of color are opened for the purpose of diluting a portion or making a color1 have the cover replaced and returned to closet when through with it4 ,have bench or table whereon rests your basins1 while you match shades in making colors1 if possible1 where a north light will strike it2 and if cold weather and the windows closed1 keep the glass clean4 ,you will often get various reflections in the dyehouse that cause a great deal of trouble to the dyer2 as1 for example1 if the sun should be shining on a red brick wall and the reflection beating into the dyehouse1 it will often lead the dyer astray1 and while he thinks he has a perfect match1 when the color goes into the office there is a decided difference4 ,the great majority who are expected to be benefitted by this work are not ostrich feather manufacturers1 but the job dyer2 and it is my object to simplify the dyehouse as well as the methods of dyeing4 ,a small corner of the dyehouse can be used1 and a couple of ordinary wash-bowls1 a common wash-boiler and a tin dipper are really all the utensils that are practically necessary to complete the dyehouse for the renovator4 ,a couple of hours in the morning devoted to feather dyeing1 and a good practical man can turn out fifty dollars worth at a cost of only his two hours labor1 and perhaps fifty cents worth of color4 ,feathers can be dried in an ordinary hot room or1 if warm weather1 out in the open air4 ,the dry room where large quantities of feathers are dried should never be too warm1 as the feathers are apt to dry up quicker than the boys can beat the starch out of them2 and1 as a consequence1 the flues or fibres are not expanded as they should be1 and the feathers are much harder to curl4 ,the board or table used to beat the feathers on must be perfectly smooth1 as there is otherwise danger of tearing out the flues4 ,the drying of feathers is quite an important operation1 and if not understood1 can result in ruining a great many by drying them improperly1 allowing the starch to dry up on the flues without beating it out1 and by breaking the quills4 ,the dry room is only used when the weather is too inclement to dry in the open air1 or when you have not got outside accommodations4 ,the yard or roof is far preferable to the dry room1 and especially so for white and black feathers4 ,after having been washed and the starch thoroughly removed1 it will improve them greatly to expose them to the sun for an hour or two4 ,colors1 especially delicate shades1 should not be allowed to hang in the sun only during the actual time required for drying a black made by our process2 it greatly improves upon exposure to the sunlight1 giving it an advantage over all others4 ,baths of logwood or old garnet baths that you are desirous of saving for future use1 it will be well to remove them from the copper or tin basins or pans to wooden buckets or crockery jars1 and cover them up for the purpose of excluding all foreign matter4 ,,miscellaneous ,,information4 ,in the re-dying of old feathers the first thing necessary is to enter them in book by whatever system you may think best2 after which they are assorted as to color1 the blacks1 browns1 greens1 blues1 etc4 ,put in separate lots and then string them and mark your tickets4 ,you will often find when you have selected your colors a number of different shades to be dyed one color2 as1 for example1 when you come to string your browns1 you will find a blue1 a green1 a garnet1 a drab1 and perhaps a dozen different shades of colors2 string them all on at once and enter together1 and dye a good medium shade of seal brown and dry2 after which you proceed to take them off the string1 and place them with their respective tickets4 ,you will now find1 perhaps1 one a shade too dark for your sample1 another perhaps a shade too light4 ,the former you would pass through a weak solution of sulphuric acid in starch bath1 and the latter through a weak solution of bichromate of potash4 ,another one you may find a little too red for sample1 or too yellow4 ,these1 in turn1 you can bring to match your sample as per recipe for brown4 ,in beginning the days work1 it is well to do all your bleaching and cleaning first1 while your hand basins and dyehouse are in a clean condition2 after which the blacks1 as they require logwood good and pure1 and the same logwood used for them can be used for all other colors where logwood enters into their composition4 ,consequently one bath of logwood boiled in the morning will do all the work for the day4 ,in ,chicago ,i remember1 while giving instruction to a gentleman1 who had come down from ,st4 ,paul1 ,minn41 for the purpose of learning the art1 that in one afternoon ,i taught him how to make every color and shade of color known1 and my logwood bath that was used during the whole day's work was boiled in a small sauce-pan that held about two quarts4 ,it had been used in making black1 browns1 greens and navy blues of all shades1 and was still in good enough condition to make any color1 excepting perhaps black4 ,keep your bath of logwood covered at all times when not in actual use1 and1 indeed1 then1 if convenient1 to prevent any foreign substance from entering it4 ,it is the custom of a great many ostrich feather dyers to keep a quantity of starch in the dyehouse for the purpose of dipping their feathers into it and partially beating them out prior to removing them from the bath for the purpose of drying the ends up to see if they match sample4 ,this is a very bad practice1 for the loose starch flying through the dyehouse will settle on the uncovered colors and cause not a little annoyance and trouble4 ,keep the starch out of the dyehouse2 keep it in the drying-room where it belongs4 ,in drying your feathers out of the baths in starch it is well to have two boxes1--one to be used for colors that contain acid2 as1 for example1 light blues1 lemon1 etc41--the other for those colors that contain none2 such as drabs1 pinks1 etc4 ,in dissolving colors use ordinary bottles1 and be sure to always use boiling water for the purpose of diluting4 ,let the proportions be about one teaspoonful of color to one pint of boiling water4 ,shake gently to thoroughly dilute aniline1 and cork or cover bottles to keep out dirt4 ,colors that are used in making very delicate shades1 such as pinks or light blues1 it is well to tie around the top of the bottle in place of a cork a small piece of muslin4 ,it will act as a strainer1 and prevent particles of color that may not have been thoroughly dissolved from passing into the bath and spotting your goods4 ,do not be too careful of the hands and afraid of getting them covered with dyestuffs2 use them in the bath instead of sticks at all times1 excepting where the liquid is too hot to permit it4 ,the best method of cleaning the hands1 no matter how dirty1 is to pass them through a solution of soda1 about one-quarter ounce in a small quantity of hot water2 rinse off in cold water1 and take about a teaspoonful of chloride of lime1 moisten with water and rub the hands gently with it until all color has entirely disappeared2 then wash with soap and hot water4 ,,washing ,,raw ,,stock4 ,first string your feathers1 being careful to place the string on the end of quill so as not to get any of the flues under the loop2 then slice down according to quantity of feathers to be washed1 from one to more pounds of soap in boiling water1 and boil down to a liquor2 after which fill a clean tub half full of luke warm water1 and pour soap into it2 then enter your feathers and give them a slight rubbing4 ,then push them well under the surface of the water1 cover them up and allow them to remain over night4 ,in the morning run off dirty water and squeeze out your feathers2 enter your feathers in a tub of clean luke warm water and use an ordinary wash board and a soft scrubbing brush4 ,rub bar soap on feathers1 and brush gently1 being very careful not to tear out the flues4 ,soap and brush one string at a time1 manipulate them much after the manner of a woman handling a large wash4 ,be careful to give minute attention to the bottom portion of the feathers1 as the flues are always more closely stuck together with the natural grease of the bird1 and it often requires an amount of hard labor to remove4 ,repeat the washing operation and rinse off in about three luke warm waters1 starch and dry4 ,in starching rub the feathers around well between the hands for the purpose of getting all the flues thoroughly expanded1 squeeze out of bath and hang on lines to dry4 ,put no more out at once than the dyers can comfortably handle1 as it is well to have them beat out on board at regular intervals of a minute or so2 thereby expanding the flues to their utmost4 ,the process of selecting the different grades or qualities follow1 and it is necessary for the person performing this work to be familiar with the application of dyestuffs to feathers1 to insure the dyer less trouble2 as the different qualities all put in the bath together1 and going through exactly the same process will come out different shades of color1 will cause the dyer a great deal of trouble and labor getting them all an even color4 ,when a batch of feathers are intended for white it will not be necessary to dry them first2 simply wash and rinse1 and prepare your white bath as per recipe1 and pass them through it4 ,it is scarcely necessary to remark here that natural black and gray feathers must not be washed at the same time with whites1 as the latter would not be improved4 ,strings should not contain more than fifty plumes1 for1 if they are made much longer1 it would be awkward to handle them4 ,tips1 however1 are often strung three or four in a bunch1 according to size1 and an ordinary string may contain two or three hundred4 ,in washing natural black tips it is advisable to use a brush on them during the first rinsing to remove all particles of soap therefrom4 ,,shading4 ,shading from dark to light colors is the result of submerging one portion of the feather in the bath and withholding the balance4 ,great care and not a little skill is needed to produce a satisfactory result4 ,there are various ways of handling the goods1 covering up the portions to remain the light shade or holding them out with the hands4 ,spotted or speckled feathers are produced by first dyeing the light shade that you desire to be spotted1 and then wrapping around a round stick with cord1 according to the size you desire to have the spots1 you will regulate the weight of cord used4 ,after having bound the cord tightly around the feather and stick1 which must then be tied firmly to keep from slipping1 pass through boiling water for a few seconds for the purpose of expanding the wood and contracting the cord1 thereby making the cord much tighter4 ,after you have made them whatever dark color you desire1 take out1 starch and pass through dry starch2 then remove cord and dry your feathers1 when you will find that the portion covered by the cord will be the light shade1 and the feathers have the appearance of being dotted all over4 ,natural blacks or grays can be speckled as follows3 ,go through the same preparations of binding around stick with cord and degrading or bleaching them white4 ,the result will be that the portion covered with cord will be same as before entering the bath1 a black or dark brown1 and the body of the feathers will be white4 ,should you desire the feathers dyed any light color to contrast with the dark spots2 before removing the cord1 mix your bath and dye as per recipe1 dry as before directed1 and the result is very beautiful4 ,some very nice effects are produced in shading by taking natural grays or bioucs1 that is1 feathers that are one portion white and the balance in spots1 black4 ,,paring1 ,,steaming ,,and ,,curling4 ,feathers that have just come out of the dyehouse for the first time require paring1 which consists in removing the quill from the inner portion of the feather1 thereby making the feathers more elastic4 ,the feathers must first be thoroughly dried2 they are then taken1 one at a time1 held between the thumb and two fore fingers of the left hand1 while1 with a knife held in the right1 the inner quill is rapidly removed close to the flues or fibres4 ,this branch of the business is in itself a trade1 and requires a great amount of skill and caution to prevent cutting through the quill4 ,the feather can be made still more limber by scraping the quill with a piece of glass4 ,of course1 this process of paring the quill is only used in new work4 ,in re-dying old feathers it is never needed2 in old work it is only necessary to dry up thoroughly1 steam and curl4 ,a great many have no knowledge of what relation steaming has to the finishing of feathers4 ,it has the effect of making all the flues lie perfectly straight beside each other1 and also dampens the feathers just enough to assist the curler in her work4 ,it is necessary to have a steamer made as follows3 get a kettle that will hold about one gallon or more of water1 made out of plain tin1 with a spout commencing at the base about two inches in width and tapering up to a half inch in width at top4 ,the spout should be about eighteen inches in length2 the total cost should not be more than one dollar4 ,never have it more than half full of water1 and you can boil it on either an ordinary stove or common gas or oil stove4 ,you may ask why steam from the boiler1 or out of an ordinary tea-kettle would not answer8 ,it is too wet4 ,instead of having the desired effect it wets the flues1 while the other dampens it just enough4 ,the steam emitted from the steam kettle is drier than any other4 ,when the steam is passing through the tube take hold of the feathers by either end and pass backward and forward for a few seconds about two inches above the top of pipe1 and lay down perfectly flat1 one on top of the other4 ,curling is a trade that can only be thoroughly mastered by practice2 the principles can be taught1 but only practice will make perfect4 ,it does not1 however1 require a great while4 ,i have known persons that within three months had become first-class curlers1 practicing a short time each day4 ,the feather is held between the first and second finger and thumb of the left hand and a few flues taken up at a time with the knife held in the right hand1 and gently drawn along the round dull edge of the knife1 and allowed to drop in a half circle2 begin at the bottom of the right hand side of the feather1 work up to the top and around and down the other side2 and in laying up take up about three flues at a time1 skipping about six4 ,feminine fingers are generally better adapted to this work than others1 and1 in fact1 it is more of a woman's work than a man's4 ,tips are generally bent and branched4 ,you can give the feathers a nice droop by taking the quill between the thumb and fore-finger1 and with the thumb pressing the quill through between the first and second finger4 ,begin about the middle of the feather1 and1 shifting about a quarter inch at a time1 pass swiftly up towards the top1 when the feathers will have a very beautiful droop4 ,plain wire stems can be used4 ,take thin wire1 cut about five inches in length1 and twist one end of it on stem or quill of your feathers so as to hold2 then take tissue paper1 cut in strips about a half inch wide1 and in color corresponding with the shade of feathers2 wrap it around wire to entirely cover it up1 and then branch tips1 two or three in a bunch1 as suits your fancy4 ,,note ,,of ,,the ,,publisher4 ,the old maxim1 that seeing is believing1 applies perhaps nowhere more than in dyeing4 ,all those who have availed themselves of the opportunity to see the method of dyeing ostrich feathers practically executed before their eyes by the author1 as described in the foregoing pages1 are satisfied of and willingly testify to its superiority over any of the methods heretofore known1 practiced and often acquired at the cost of much money1 time and trouble1 and which1 in many cases1 when put to the practical test1 failed to give the desired results4 ,yet there are probably many more disbelievers than believers in any new method1 however freely and truthfully certified to1 who mistrust the quick work of our new processes of ostrich feather dyeing1 and who would rather prefer to operate after a somewhat slow but 7in their opinion7 therefore surer1 older method4 ,they shall not be disappointed by perusing our book and in looking up something which they would want to try in practice1 and for them especially we supplement our book with the following ,appendix1 containing a number of practically tested recipes for dyeing ostrich feathers4 ,,appendix4 ,,general ,,remarks4 ,the cultivated taste of the present age1 requiring a large variety of natural and artificially produced or embellished material for adornment1 employs almost any kind of bird's feathers1 either in their natural coloring or dyed4 ,none of them1 however1 are used in the condition as they are plucked from the body of the live or dead bird1 but all must undergo a cleaning process1 which not only serves to improve their appearance1 but is an exceedingly essential requisite for the preservation of the material from decay and the attacks of moth and other insects1 and is1 above all1 the first condition and indispensable preparatory operation for dyeing feathers1 whether the costly feather of the ostrich or the common feather of our domestic chicken or pigeon4 ,the cleaning or washing process is the same for all kinds of feathers2 the ostrich feather1 however1 requires drying after every treatment in a bath1 and a special operation for the purpose of opening the fine flues1 which gives the plumage of the ostrich its characteristic and distinguishing beauty and rich1 downy appearance of luxurious softness4 ,the feathers of the ostrich1 which are used for dress-feathers1 are taken from the wings and tail of the bird1 whose spurred wings1 by their peculiar construction render it entirely unfit for flight4 ,the wings seem rather only fit to serve for the purpose of holding the body of the bird in equilibrium while running1 and of preventing it from sinking to any depth into the loose sand of the deserts1 which are the home of the ostrich4 ,the natural colors of the ostrich feathers are white1 black and gray1 or rather a dark drab4 ,they are1 therefore1 sorted according to their natural color1 to be bleached white1 or dyed in light colors1 or to be used for dark shades4 ,practical men in the general dyeing business1 and in garment dyeing or re-dyeing1 hold that it is unnecessary to bleach1 respectively strip1 the material for dyeing dark colors1 and garment dyers strip their material only to a certain extent1 so as to leave upon it a bottom of color which they can advantageously use for their new dye4 ,this method appears correct1 if as practical as all that is designated1 which results in a saving of expense or labor2 but it is evident that a clear color of the highest possible beauty can never be obtained upon a bottom of a different hue2 the bottom color will always1 more or less1 show and impair the purity of the topping color2 but compound or mixed colors can be thus produced in an advantageous manner and to good effect1 if the color of the bottom enters into their composition4 ,the same is unquestionably the case with ostrich feathers1 and the dyer is often compelled and must be prepared to bleach the gray or black and white feathers in order to dye them any light shade4 ,the bleaching of naturally purely black feathers is probably but seldom required1 as these are ordinarily left as nature has made them1 but merely cleaned to heighten their beauty and gloss4 ,owing to the delicate nature of the material1 the dyeing of ostrich feathers bears much similarity to that of silk2 both being high in price1 carelessness and negligence in their treatment is apt to entail heavy losses4 ,the utmost cleanliness of all utensils is an absolute requirement2 dyestuffs1 drugs and chemicals must never be added to baths in substance1 but always in solution1 and never while the material is in the bath2 but the material must be taken up while the dyestuff or salt1 etc41 solution is being added to the bath1 and only re-entered after stirring well4 ,solutions1 as well as decoctions1 must always be filtered1 respectively strained1 before adding them to the dye bath1 even if they have been prepared beforehand1 because any undissolved or solid particle of substance deposited upon the feathers would necessarily produce a spot or mark of a darker or lighter shade1 as the case may be1 according to the character of the undissolved substance4 ,although alkalies and heat are applied and necessary for washing or scouring1 that is1 cleaning and ungreasing the feathers1 strong alkaline and excessive heat operating together are as fatal for feathers as they are for any other animal fibre1--wool or silk1--and strong heat applied to dry feathers is apt to irretrievably ruin them4 ,the soap with which feathers are to be treated1 must1 therefore1 be as neutral as possible1 and if recipes speak of boiling the feathers1 it must be understood in the sense as in wool-dyeing1 that is1 to apply a heat near the boiling point1 when the baths begin to throw up bubbles1 but not actually boil4 ,that the water used for any purpose in ostrich feather dyeing1 for washing1 bleaching1 dyeing or rinsing1 must be perfectly clean1 needs hardly to be mentioned4 ,,utensils4 ,the utensils required for feather dyeing are of a very simple character1 few and inexpensive4 ,for small establishments an ordinary stove1 a common wash-boiler1 to have constantly hot water on hand1 an ordinary wash tub1 a white china wash-basin for dyeing1 a clean board for starching and a few bottles1 together with a small tin pan or kettle and funnel1 for making solutions and decoctions and filtering them1 is all that is necessary besides the work table4 ,more recently1 flat1 oval upper pans1 tinned for special purposes1 have been introduced as dye-vessels1 which are neatly provided with a moveable perforated false-bottom1 and are heated either upon a direct fire1 or a gas jet1 or by direct steam4 ,in large establishments copper pans are generally used1 for the better grades of ostrich feathers especially1 and for ordinary goods wooden tubs1 both heated by steam4 ,where wooden tubs are used1 several of them are set apart for the color most in demand1 such as black1 brown1 gray1 mode1 etc4 ,,preparation ,,of ,,the ,,feathers4 ,the bundles received from the dealer being opened1 the feathers are sorted according to color and size1 and those for white and light colors1 to be bleached1 are laid from those of dark colors1 which are ordinarily not bleached1 that is1 the black or gray ones4 ,when going to work the feathers are put on strings1 that is1 they are firmly tied singly1 about an inch apart from one another1 and about an inch above the end of the quill1 #bj or #be with one string1 seldom more1 as they would make the bundle too thick and unhandy4 ,the feathers are then ready for the steep1 which operation ought always and for any method be the first step of treatment before proceeding to washing1 scouring and bleaching proper4 ,for this purpose a strong solution of soap is made in boiling water2 when cooled down to about #aej ,f41 it is well stirred1 the feathers entered and left in the bath over night4 ,the temperature may be kept up over night4 ,it is necessary1 however1 to lay the feathers down in the steep so that the liquid can reach every part of them1 and to keep them well immersed in the steep1 for which purpose it is advisable to weigh them down by clean sticks of wood or some other means4 ,instead of soap1 soda may be used for the steep2 taking about one and one-half ounces of soda crystals to one gallon of water4 ,by the steep the impurities1 dirt and grease1 covering the feather are loosened1 and thereby the following cleaning operations materially facilitated4 ,,cleaning ,,and ,,bleaching ,,of ,,feathers4 ,the ostrich feathers1 like all material taken from the covering of the animal body1 wool1 hair1 etc41 which are embellished by dyeing for the use of man or woman in dress1 contain by nature a certain amount of fat1 and in their raw condition are more or less covered with dust1 dirt and a greasy exudation1 which must be removed for dyeing2 that is1 they are scoured or washed and then bleached or whitened1 because the feathers1 like all other so-called white animal matter1 have always a faint yellowish tint1 sometimes yellowish spots which cannot be removed without injury to the material1 but obliterated by bleaching1 which1 in the case of white feathers1 is called bleaching or whitening4 ,the bleaching of gray and black feathers and the stripping or decoloring of dyed feathers are different operations4 ,for scouring or washing1 novel methods are recommended1 which1 however1 differ from one another very little1 and are1 on the whole1 represented by the following3 ,prepare a good handwarm bath 7#ajj-abj ,f471 in which dissolve two ounces ,marseilles soap in per gallon of water and beat up to a good lather4 ,enter feathers and rub them well1 string for string1 by hand4 ,they may even be taken upon a wash-board and rubbed with a brush1 which does not hurt them1 notwithstanding their delicate structure1 because the soap steep has given them great elasticity and resistance to the manipulation4 ,continue the operations until the tank is exhausted and dirty2 then give another fresh bath of the same composition and temperature2 treat the feathers as in the first bath and rinse them perfectly clean from every particle of soap in two or three luke-warm 7#ajj7 waters2 for1 every trace of soap remaining upon the feathers will hinder the dye from running up and cause uneven colors1 or1 upon white feathers1 yellow stains4 ,then prepare a cold bath with solution of bioxolate of potash 7one-eighth to one-sixth ounce of salt to one gallon71 enter feathers1 pass them in the bath for #ae-bj minutes1 take up and rinse them in cold water three to four times to remove the salt4 ,for feathers which have to remain white1 the latter bath is composed of one and one-quarter ounces bioxolate of potash and one and one-eighth ounces oxalic acid to one gallon of water1 and the feathers laid down in it until perfectly white2 when they are taken out and rinsed clean from acid in luke-warm water4 ,the feathers being rinsed clean from the oxolate of potash bath1 if destined for white1 are then whitened1 or rather blued1 for the purpose of covering the yellowish tint above mentioned4 ,to this purpose a cold bath is prepared with only so much methyl violet or methylene blue1 as to give the water a very faint tint4 ,to ascertain whether this is the case1 a white china plate is held about a foot below the surface of the bath1 when its appearance will show the shade of blue that will be produced by the bath4 ,the feathers are then entered and gently agitated in the bath until they have the desired tint4 ,,drying ,,or ,,starching4 ,the feathers coming from the bioxolate of potash bath1 after rinsing1 or from the blue baths1 are squeezed out by pulling them through the hand1 and pressing them between the laps of a dry clean piece of white muslin1 whereupon they are immediately passed through a bath of raw starch1 that is1 unboiled starch1 consisting of about one-half pound of starch to a gallon of water4 ,after passing them through the hand the feathers are then again pressed between the cloth2 then the waves are lightly drawn by hand over the stems1 and the feathers either beaten between the hands or upon a clean board over a stove until dry1 or they are agitated by hand or by a suitable mechanical contrivance before an open fire or gas-jet1 or hung in a warm room and frequently shaken until dry1 that is1 until all starch has dropped out2 and finally the remaining starch is beaten out between the hands or upon the board by means of a soft brush4 ,by this treatment the feathers are not only dried1 but the flues opened besides4 ,it needs not to be specially mentioned1 that the feathers are dried1 or finished1 as it were1 in the same manner after dyeing4 ,in case the flues are not sufficiently opened1 although all the starch has been beaten out1 dip the feathers into clean benzine and swing or agitate them until dry1 which takes place in a few minutes1 while the flues are opened in the most perfect manner4 ,for white feathers the benzine may be blued1 but in this case1 they must be dried between muslin4 ,,bleaching ,,or ,,decoloring ,,naturally ,,gray ,,feathers4 ,the feather dyer is often required to dye light colors upon naturally gray or even black feathers4 ,as above remarked1 the natural color would show even under dark colors dyed upon them to a greater or less extent1 unless they are first decolorized1 that is1 their natural color destroyed or blackened4 ,much more necessary is1 therefore1 this operation for light colors to be dyed upon naturally colored ostrich feathers4 ,the only known chemical agent affecting such a bleach to nearly white is peroxyd of hydrogen or oxygenated water4 ,for bleaching ostrich feathers a bath is prepared of peroxyd of hydrogen to which so much liquid ammonia is added as to give the bath a sharp pungent odor4 ,the feathers1 which must be previously cleaned as above mentioned1 and well rinsed1 are entered and left immersed in the bath until they have assumed a nearly white cream color1 whereupon the feathers are taken up and thoroughly rinsed or laid down in running water until every trace of ammonia has disappeared4 ,it must be observed1 however1 that only acid aniline colors can be dyed upon such decolorized feathers and that in dyeing only a moderate heat must be applied4 ,dr4 ,p4 ,ebell1 of ,linden1 near ,hanover1 one of the first and still largest manufacturers of peroxyd of hydrogen1 writes on the subject of feather bleaching as follows3 ,the assorted and picked feathers are cleaned from dirt and fat with soap and water by means of soft brushes1 which operation is continued until the feathers 7after drying7 are readily wetted by water2 when they are laid down for some time in pure water4 ,the liquids are removed from the feathers by a centrifugal machine or a wringer 7the latter is evidently meant for ordinary feathers1 other than ostrich feathers74 ,mix in a clean wooden tub twenty litres peroxyd of hydrogen 7,koenigswter ,ebell7 with four hundred and fifty grammes ammonia #bj ,b4 7#j4i sp4 gra47 and heat to #cd ,c41 by a leaden steam pipe at the bottom of the tub4 ,enter #e kilo4 cleaned feathers1 which work by hand and turn every hour4 ,in twenty four hours the bleach is completed4 ,if pure white feathers are wanted1 give a second bath1 but for a shorter period4 ,the bleached feathers are carefully removed from the bleaching bath and laid down1 for an hour and a half1 in a cold bath of one hundred litres water containing one hundred grammes sulphuric acid #ff ,b41 and then completely lixiviated in pure1 soft water4 ,while moist 7after squeezing7 they are then passed through a milk of unboiled starch which is lightly blued with aniline blue or violet1 and slowly dried1 in the air or in a warm room1 under repeated shaking to prevent the flues from sticking together4 ,after removing the starch by beating1 the feathers are ready for curling1 etc4 ,,peroxyd ,,of ,,hydrogen4 ,this most valuable bleaching agent is a contraction of hydrogen and oxygen1 of the formula ,,ho#b1 sp4 grv4 #a4de 7chemically given71 or #id4ab per cent4 oxygen with #e4hh per cent4 hydrogen4 ,it consists in a limpid1 syrupous liquid1 of characteristic color1 and when heated to #ae ,c41 is decomposed into water and oxygen1 upon which property its great bleaching power is based4 ,experiments to reduce it to a solid form by refrigeration and pressure have thus far been unsuccessful4 ,the commercial article is somewhat modified by the addition of water to prevent its ready decomposition under the influence of a warm temperature4 ,for the same reason it is advisable to always keep it in a cool place4 ,,light ,,blue4 ,i4 ,to dye this delicate color well1 special care must be taken in cleaning the feathers1 for which purpose only olive-oil soap of the best quality1 with a little ammonia1 ought to be employed4 ,when they are perfectly clean and no more grease upon the stems1 rinse them first in one or two lukewarm waters1 then in cold water until the last trace of soap is removed4 ,then fill your basin or dyeing pan three-quarters full of cold water2 put in1 for a dozen feathers1 one hundred and eighty grammes 7about eight ounces7 of raw starch in a sufficient quantity of good indigo extract to give the starch-bath the desired shade4 ,enter the feathers and work them gently until they are completely dyed1 that is1 for about fifteen or twenty minutes4 ,then take them out1 squeeze out the starch by putting them between the fingers and thumb of your hand1 and shake them before the stove1 or in a well-warmed chamber until dry4 ,while drying1 beat them from time to time upon the board1 or between the hands to remove the adhering starch4 ,,ii4 ,prepare a lukewarm bath acidulated with a few drops of sulphuric acid1 so as to give a faint sour taste1 to which add1 according to shade1 solution of methyl blue ,b4 7,actien ,gesellschaft fuer ,anilin ,fabrikation1 ,berlin74 ,enter the feathers and leave them in the bath until cold1 or until uniformly dyed4 ,,note4--,some dyers use alkaline blue1 which is not1 however1 recommendable1 because alkaline baths1 as above remarked1 are injurious to the feathers and must be avoided as much as possible4 ,,iii4 ,prepare bath of lukewarm water1 dissolve in it about one-half ounce tartaric acid per one quart1 and add one ounce indigo carmine per quart of liquid2 stir well1 enter the feathers and agitate or lay down in the bath until the required shade is obtained4 ,this color shows little fastness to light and air1 which can be improved1 however1 by adding to the dye bath one-quarter ounce alum per quart4 ,the shade being obtained1 take up the feathers and pass1 without rinsing1 through raw starch milk1 dry and beat as described4 ,light blues1 as is easy to understand1 can only be dyed upon white feathers for the most delicate shades2 nearly white1 or developed gray feathers may be used for the shades approaching a light medium blue4 ,,navy ,,blue4 ,i4 ,for this color naturally gray or semi-bleached feathers may be used4 ,it requires a mordant1 like wool4 ,for this purpose prepare a bath of forty per cent4 7of the weight of feathers7 tannin at #afg ,f41 enter the feathers and agitate them from time to time for three hours4 ,then take them up1 drain and squeeze them out1 enter a cold bath of pyrolignite of iron 7black liquor7 marking #e ,b41 and work them for half hour2 take them out1 drain and squeeze1 and then expose them1 well spread out upon the strings1 for one hour to the action of the air4 ,then rinse and dye upon a fresh warm bath with a mixture of aniline blue and a little methyl violet1 using about twenty per cent4 of the weight of feathers4 ,add the dyestuff in the beginning only in small doses and slowly in order to prevent the production of a bronzy1 undesirable lustre upon the stem1 as is often the case in dying with aniline dyestuffs if they are added to the bath in too large doses4 ,,ii4 ,prepare a hot bath1 to which add as much indigo carmine as to bring the color of the bath pretty near the shade to be produced4 ,enter the feathers and agitate them in the bath for one hour4 ,then take up the feathers1 add alum and a solution of cloth-blue ,s4 to the bath1 re-enter the feathers and work them while raising the temperature to boiling point1 when the steam or gas is turned off1 or the pan removed from the fire1 and the feathers allowed to lie for fifteen or twenty minutes longer in the bath4 ,they are then taken out1 rinsed1 starched and dried and beaten4 ,,iii4 ,have the feathers properly cleaned and well rinsed from the soap1 respectively soda4 ,gray feathers may be used unbleached1 but a purer color is obtained upon them when bleached4 ,prepare a hot bath1 to which so much sulphuric acid is added1 that it has a feeble sour taste2 add the solution of two per cent4 7of the weight of feathers71 navy blue1 one per cent4 fast blue or black1 and one-eighth per cent4 acid fuchsine4 ,stir well1 enter the feathers1 manipulate while raising the temperature to boiling point1 but not to actual boiling1 continue at this temperature for one half hour2 then stop off the steam1 lay the feathers down in the bath until cool1 lift and dry as usual4 ,,gendarme ,,blue4 ,this color requires a pure bottom1 that is1 naturally white or bleached4 ,after cleaning1 respectively washing in warm soap1 which must not even be omitted with bleached feathers1 and thorough rinsing1 prepare a bath and dye as for dyeing light blue with indigo carmine4 ,then add some aniline green and navy blue to the bath1 re-enter the feathers which have been taken up before making the addition1 work them well while raising the temperature to the boiling point2 continue at this temperature for one-half hour longer1 lift1 rinse1 starch and dry as usual4 ,,plum ,,or ,,prune4 ,i4 ,for this color1 which has in itself a subdued tone of brown1 or has the color of gray ostrich feathers1 such naturally colored feathers may be used unbleached1 but well cleaned and rinsed before dyeing4 ,prepare a luke-warm bath1 to which add about one-half ounce tartaric acid to per quart of water and solution of methyl violet #f ,b41 according to shade1 with a little aniline ponceau or fast brown for toning4 ,while working the feathers1 raise the temperature and continue dyeing at nearly boiling for one-half hour2 then take out1 wash and dry4 ,or1 ,,ii4 ,prepare a boiling hot bath with alum1 sulphuric acid and tartar2 to which add acid fuchsine2 enter the feathers1 and dye one-half hour to a blue red1 which tone1 by the addition of decoction of logwood1 continue at nearly boiling heat for one-half hour longer1 lift1 rinse lightly1 starch1 beat and dry4 ,,iii4 ,take a hot bath1 upon which violet has been dyed1 and refresh it with some solution of methyl violet1 #e ,b41 and a few drops of sulphuric acid1 or prepare a hot bath with the same ingredients1 and indigo carmine1 according to shade2 or1 instead of indigo carmine1 indigo substitute1 fast blue ,b4 ,a41 and indigotine2 preferably1 however1 use indigo carmine1 which develops more slowly1 and therefore is surer to give better results1 while the aniline dyestuffs run up more rapidly1 and are apt to dye unevenly1 unless their solutions are added gradually and the feathers handled quickly and carefully4 ,,light ,,yellow4 ,i4 ,light yellow is comparatively very little in demand for ostrich feathers1 and scarcely used for trimming hats of children and young misses as a set-off for other colors4 ,to produce it1 prepare a pretty hot bath with a little sulphuric acid1 so as to give it a slightly acid taste1 add very little quinoline yellow1 lay down the feathers in the bath for one-half hour1 turning and agitating them from time to time1 lift1 rinse and dry4 ,for this color1 as well as for light blues and roses1 the feathers must be perfectly white4 7,for this dye the quinoline yellow manufactured by the ,actien ,gesellschaft fuer ,anilin ,fabrikation1 ,berlin1 is specially suitable74 ,as the purity of all light shades of delicate colors greatly depends upon the purity of the water1 it is advisable to bring the bath1 before preparing it1 to boil with some bran and chloride of tin and skim it off well4 ,,medium ,,yellow4 ,various shades of yellow can also be produced with the old natural dyestuffs1 which are not1 however1 equal in brilliancy to the foregoing described colors4 ,the feathers must be bleached for these as well as for any clear color1 which would be materially impaired by an impure bottom2 still developed grays may be employed4 ,after scouring and thoroughly rinsing the feathers1 prepare a cold bath of alum1 about one ounce to one gallon of clear water1 or of acetic acid2 lay the feathers down until well opened1 so that the liquid can uniformly act upon all parts1 for one hour4 ,then take them out1 squeeze and centrifugate them1 and dye the shade upon a fresh warm bath with the required quantity of flavine1 decoction of color or of fustic2 lift1 rinse and starch as usual4 ,or1 dissolve a sufficient quantity of turmeric in boiling water1 filter and enter the feathers while the filtrate is still well hot4 ,agitate them for five minutes1 then take them up1 add to the bath a small quantity of tartaric acid1 this to promote its dissolution2 then re-enter the feathers1 work them again for five minutes1 lift1 rinse in cold water1 and dry4 ,if these colors are to have a light reddish or warmer tone1 add1 when nearly done1 some anotto to the dye bath4 ,,dark ,,yellow4 ,bleached grays answer for this color as well as naturally white feathers4 ,scour and rinse them well4 ,prepare a bath1 feebly acidulated with sulphuric acid1 and add the filtered solution of two and one-half per cent4 of the weight of feathers1 dark yellow1 7manufactured by the ,leipziger ,anilin ,fabrik1 formerly ,bayer ,kegel74 ,enter the feathers in the cold and work them diligently until the color is well up1 then raise the temperature slowly to #agj ,f41 dye to shade1 lift1 rinse in clear cold water1 starch and dry4 ,,ii4 ,a new light yellow1 which is fast to light and air1 is obtained by products of ,leonhardt ,co41 at ,manheim1 viz3 redarine and acme yellow4 ,add to a hot bath of #agj-aij ,f41 a quite small quantity of redarine and still less acme yellow2 enter the feathers1 manipulate for one-half hour1 take out1 rinse and dry them with starch1 and beat well out4 ,this color being extremely sensitive1 the purification of the water for the bath is as necessary as the most scrupulous cleanliness of utensils and workshops4 ,,golden ,,yellow4 ,i4 ,the feathers being scoured and rinsed clean of soap1 prepare a bath of five per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 bisulphate of soda1 add solution 7filtered7 of azo orange1 according to shade4 ,enter the feathers at #abj ,f42 heat up slowly to #agj ,f41 while working the feathers2 lift when the shade is obtained1 squeeze out1 starch and dry4 ,,ii4 ,prepare a bath with three per cent4 7of the weight of the feathers7 ,glauber salt and one per cent4 sulphuric acid4 ,enter the feathers at #ajj-abj ,f41 after adding to the bath the solution of one per cent4 golden yellow ,s4 7of ,gust4 ,doerr1 ,frankfort-on-,main71 work the feathers repeatedly during one-half hour1 when they all have assumed a rich1 nourished color2 take up1 rinse lightly2 starch and beat them dry4 ,,old ,,gold4 ,have the naturally white or decolorized gray feathers well washed in soap and rinsed clean from it4 ,prepare a hot bath at #agj ,f41 to which add so much aniline cream as to color it dark reddish yellow4 ,enter the feathers and agitate them from five to ten minutes1 according to the shade desired4 ,then take them up1 add some sulphuric acid to the bath1 re-enter the feathers1 work for two minutes2 then lift1 rinse and dry4 ,the bath can be preserved for further use4 ,,gray4 ,so unpretending this color appears1 so difficult is it to produce1 and it requires a considerable amount of practice and good judgment to bring out a good color from the beginning1 as very little too much or too little will spoil a color either in tone or in shade4 ,a very good logwood gray1 which with proper attention seldom fails to turn out satisfactory1 is made as follows3 ,prepare a hot bath1 to which add a small quantity of decoction of logwood2 enter the feathers and work them in the bath for fifteen or twenty minutes1 according to shade desired4 ,then take them up1 add to the bath very little pyrolignite of iron1 that is1 only as much as to turn the color of the bath2 re-enter the feathers1 agitate them again for fifteen or twenty minutes in the liquid2 then lift1 rinse and starch as usual4 ,this color might be best described as dark ash gray4 ,instead of pyrolignite of iron1 some solution of copperas may be used4 ,it will be easily understood1 that the more concentrated the decoction of logwood is1 the darker turns out the color1 and it is in that respect particularly that the dyer has to use good judgment in producing shades from silver gray to dark ash gray4 ,this color1 besides1 presents the advantage1 that by topping it with solutions of blue1 brown1 yellow or green coal-tar dyestuffs a great variety of mode colors can be produced4 ,,pearl ,,gray4 ,after scouring and rinsing well1 prepare a warm bath 7#ajj-abj ,f47 with five per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 bisulphate of soda1 to which add solution of ,victoria blue and of extract of archil1 according to sample4 ,acid violet may be used1 but requires a temperature near the boiling point1 which ought to be avoided wherever possible in dyeing ostrich feathers4 ,to be on the safe side1 make the solutions of the dyestuffs of medium concentration1 use only the clear of them1 or better filter the same1 and add it slowly and gradually first in small doses1 finally by drops1 for which purpose the use of a burette with squeeze-cock is recommendable4 ,,silver ,,gray4 ,scour1 respectively bleach1 and rinse the feathers well clean1 prepare a bath1 work the solution of five per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 silver gray 7,actein ,gesellschaft fuer ,anilin ,fabrikation1 ,berlin71 feebly acidulated with sulphuric acid2 enter the feathers in the cold1 work well to make the color dye up evenly2 then raise the temperature slowly under diligent working1 to #agj ,f41 continue at this temperature for five to ten minutes1 lift1 rinse and dry4 ,,brown4 ,the series of brown colors1 partly produced by combinations of spectrum colors1 partly of direct brown dyestuffs1 presents a large range of modifications and shades1 from a light rust brown or buff to nearly black1 blueish1 yellowish1 reddish1 olive brown1 etc41 and is in this respect only inferior to the non-descript endless variety of modes4 ,with the exception of the very lightest shades1 which require perfectly white feathers1 they can be dyed upon half-bleached1 and the deeper shades upon unbleached gray feathers2 the dyer1 must1 however1 in the latter case1 bear in mind1 that the gray bottom color always influences to a certain degree1 the tone of the color that is to be dyed upon it4 ,nevertheless1 as to the proportions of the dyestuffs to be employed for a given tone or shade cannot be given1 because the tinctorial value of artificial dyestuffs is very changeable and not even constant with the same makers4 ,experience1 skill and trial dyes must1 therefore1 guide the dyer in composing the baths for browns as well as for modes1 the majority of the latter being modifications of brown4 ,in general the following may be observed3 ,i4 ,after scouring the feathers and rinsing them perfectly clean of the scouring material1 whether soap or soda1 prepare a bath of #agj to #aij ,f41 to which add fifteen per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 bisulphate of soda1 indigo carmine1 extract of archil and azo yellow4 ,according to the proportionally greater or smaller quantity of either dyestuff added to the dyebath either browns are obtained1 or olives1 ,russia green1 reseda1 or a variety of modes4 ,the trouble with all colors into whose compositions indigo carmine enters is1 that this dyestuff requires a comparatively high temperature to run up1 preferably a boiling bath1 which1 however1 is decidedly objectionable with ostrich feathers4 ,to avoid this difficulty1 the new acid ,victoria blue is used instead of indigo carmine1 and fuchsine ,s4 instead of extract of archil4 ,victoria blue dyes up readily at a moderate temperature4 ,,ii4 ,the feathers being scoured and rinsed clean1 prepare a boiling bath with so much sulphuric acid as to give a feebly sour taste1 and add fast aniline brown1 turmeric1 and indigo carmine or cloth-blue ,s41 according to the tone and shade desired4 ,prepare the bath so that it shows exactly this tone of color which is to be dyed1 and bring it to boil in order to produce a perfect mixture of the three dyestuffs1 or rather their filtered solutions4 ,then chill the bath to about #abj ,f41 enter the feathers1 while raising the temperature in about fifteen minutes to near the boiling point2 then dye to shade1 lift1 rinse and dry4 ,it is advisable1 in order to obtain a level dye1 to add not the whole amount of dyestuff solution required at one time1 but at least in two times2 which rule altogether applies to all aniline dyestuffs1 more or less1 as they mostly run up very rapidly and are apt1 therefore1 to give uneven dyes4 ,if a yellowish tint is wanted1 use a little azo yellow or azo orange2 picric acid1 which was formerly very freely used for this purpose1 has been almost entirely abandoned4 ,,light ,,brown4 ,clean and rinse them as usual1 prepare a bath of #agj-aij ,f41 with redarine1 a trace of orange ,o1 and some acid green2 enter feathers and work for one-half hour1 then lift1 rinse and dry4 ,by varying the proportions of dyestuffs1 a series of modes is obtainable4 7,dyestuffs manufactured by ,leonhardt ,co41 of ,mannheim74 ,,rust ,,brown4 ,prepare a slightly acidulated warm bath with three per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 fast aniline brown1 one per cent4 azo yellow1 one percent4 extract of indigo1 and a little sulphuric acid2 enter the well scoured and rinsed feathers at #abj-adj ,f41 work the feathers for one-half hour1 while slowly raising the temperature to the boiling point2 continue dyeing at that degree of heat1 but not boiling1 for five minutes2 lift1 rinse1 starch and dry4 ,,red ,,brown4 ,i4 ,scour and rinse well2 prepare a warm bath1 in which dissolve three per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 alum1 add twenty-five per cent4 extract of archil1 one and one half per cent4 azo yellow1 and if required for shade1 one-half per cent4 indigo carmine2 enter at #agj ,f41 dye to shade while slowly raising the temperature to near the boiling point1 continue at that temperature for ten to fifteen minutes longer2 then lift1 rinse and dry4 ,instead of indigo carmine1 cloth-blue ,s4 may be used1 in which case enter at #abj and raise the temperature slowly1 not above #aij ,f4 ,or1 ,,ii4 ,prepare a bath at #aij ,f41 add five per cent4 bisulphate of soda1 when dissolved1 add solution of extract of archil1 fast yellow and indigo carmine as required for the shade1 and dye at that temperature to sample4 ,instead of archil1 any red or orange azo dyestuff may be used1 preferably bordeaux4 ,,coffee ,,brown4 ,have the feathers will cleaned and rinsed1 bleaching being not required1 prepare a bath with three per cent4 alum 7of the weight of feathers71 at #agj ,f41 add indigo carmine1 bordeaux and azo yellow1 according to sample1 and dye to shade while slowly raising the temperature to near the boiling point1 but bring not to boil1 but continue until the indigo carmine is well up4 ,a less fast color is obtained with archil1 indigo carmine and picric acid4 ,when finished dyeing1 rinse1 starch and dry as usual4 ,the dyestuffs for brown being nearly the same for all shades1 while the depth and tone of the color is produced by differently proportioning the quantities of the different dyestuffs and the time of dyeing1 it is advantageous to have the solutions of dyestuffs near by on hand2 it is advisable1 however1 if good work is intended1 to always filter before using solutions which have been standing for some time4 ,this precaution is necessary1 because from most solutions1 if allowed to stand for a day or longer1 some dyestuff which was not dissolved but only suspended in the liquid1 separates out forming a more or less copious sediment which1 if it passes into the dye bath1 settles upon the feathers causing spots or streaks of a different shade than the rest of the feathers4 ,,puce4 ,scour and rinse the feathers well2 grays can be used in their natural color without bleaching4 ,prepare a warm bath1 in which dissolve eighty per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 tartaric acid and eighty per cent4 ,glauber salt2 then add sixteen per cent4 aniline fast brown2 eight per cent4 azo yellow1 and sixteen per cent4 induline or nigrosine1 and bring the bath to a boil2 after a few minutes of boiling1 chill by the addition of cold water1 enter the feathers and work them at hand-heat for fifteen or twenty minutes until the color has become level2 then bring the bath again to near the boiling point2 lay the feathers down in the bath1 shut off the steam1 or withdraw from the fire1 and let the bath cool down4 ,when cold1 that is in about one or two hours1 take out the feathers1 rinse and dry4 ,,fawn4 ,prepare a warm bath with five per cent4 bisulphate of soda1 add solutions of azo orange1 acid violet and some archil cautiously in several doses until the bath has the desired color4 ,enter the scoured and rinsed feathers and agitate for fifteen or twenty minutes1 to produce a level dye2 then raise the temperature slowly to #aij-bjj ,f41 dye for a few minutes longer1 lift1 rinse and dry4 ,by varying the proportions of the dyestuffs1 drab1 wood brown1 lead color1 etc41 can be obtained1 and olives by increasing the quantity of acid violet and omitting the extract of archil4 ,,chestnut ,,brown4 ,scour and rinse the feathers well2 natural grays may be used unbleached4 ,prepare a decoction of one and one quarter pound cudbear1 and six ounces turmeric in two gallons of water1 strain through a cloth and enter the feathers at hand heat 7about #ij-ajj ,f472 work them for twenty or thirty minutes1 or until they have attained a nourished garnet color4 ,then take them out1 rinse1 lay them down for five minutes in a cold solution of about six ounces copperas in one-half gallon of water1 take them up and rinse in cold water4 ,then return to the first bath1 operate for fifteen minutes at hand heat1 enter again1 after rinsing1 the iron bath1 and continue alternately dyeing upon the two baths until the required shade is obtained4 ,rinse every time on shifting from one bath to the other1 in clean water1 and finally rinse well1 starch and dry4 ,,havanna4 ,i4 ,for this color it is advisable to use naturally white or bleached feathers1 scour or wash them clean in soap and warm water and remove the soap by thoroughly rinsing in two warm and one cold waters4 ,prepare a bath slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid1 to which add eighty per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 tartaric acid1 eight per cent4 azo yellow1 six per cent4 fast brown1 and three and a quarter per cent4 acid green4 ,enter the feathers at #ajj-abj ,f4 and manipulate at that temperature for ten or fifteen minutes4 ,then raise the temperature to the boiling point 7but do not boil71 lay the feathers down in the bath for one-half to one hour1 while the bath cools down1 lift1 starch and finish as usual4 ,,ii4 ,prepare a bath slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid1 bring to nearly boiling1 add a concentrated solution of orange ,s4 and some acid green1 enter the feathers and dye to shade2 then pass them through a week oil-bath1 and dry them1 placed straight between several laps of clean muslin4 ,,iii4 ,prepare a bath of the decoction of twelve and a half per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 alum and twenty-five per cent4 turmeric2 strain1 enter the feathers at #agj-aij ,f41 and let them lie in the bath over night4 ,on the following day dye1 at #ajj ,f41 with decoction of fustet1 tone with decoction of logwood or of brazil1 according to sample1 starch and dry4 ,,mushroom4 ,i4 ,for this elegant color take naturally white or bleached gray feathers1 scour and rinse them well4 ,prepare a hot bath with five per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 bisulphate of soda1 to which add1 as required1 filtered solutions of fast yellow1 indigo carmine and ponceau ,g4 ,enter the feathers at #agj ,f41 work them for ten or fifteen minutes and raise the temperature slowly to near the boiling point4 ,add the dyestuffs in small quantities gradually1 making the additions only when the dyestuff of the bath has been completely absorbed1 and then by drops so as to be able to correct the color without waste of dyestuff4 ,bear in mind1 that the indigo carmine dyes up slowly and requires a high temperature4 ,an easier process is1 therefore1 the following3 ,,ii4 ,after cleaning and rinsing well1 prepare a bath at #agj ,f41 with four per cent4 bisulphate of soda1 to which add gradually in small quantities1 as required1 some nigrosine1 azo orange and a little mandarin or nigrosine1 alkaline blue and fuchsine ,s41 rinse1 starch and dry4 ,,light ,,drab4 ,scour and rinse the feathers as usual2 bleached grays may be used4 ,prepare a bath with five per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 bisulphate of soda and the clear solutions of acid violet1 azo orange and fuchsine ,s42 add the dyestuff in small portions and finally by drops1 until the bath has the desired shade of color2 then enter the feathers and dye at #agj ,f4 to sample1 squeeze or centrifugate1 starch and dry4 ,,beige4 ,i4 ,for this color take either naturally white or well-bleached gray feathers1 scour or wash and rinse them clean4 ,prepare pretty thin solutions of aniline orange 7chrysaniline7 and violet1 add very little of them at a time and finally by drops to the dyestuffs containing either five per cent4 bisulphate of soda or a small dose of sulphuric acid2 enter the feathers at #ade ,f4 and dye to shade at the same temperature1 which will require about twenty or thirty minutes2 lift1 rinse1 squeeze and starch4 ,,ii4 ,have the feathers well cleaned1 respectively1 bleached1 and rinsed4 ,prepare a hot bath 7#agj-aij ,f471 with a little sulphuric acid1 just enough to give it a slightly sour taste1 add a few drops of solution of fast brown and a little more solution of acid green 7both dyestuffs of the ,farbwerke1 formerly ,meister1 ,lucius ,bruening1 ,hoechst-on-,main72 take of them one or two drops1 respectively two or three drops per gallon of water for a light shade and increase quantities proportionally for darker shades4 ,rinse after dying1 starch and dry4 ,,iii4 ,take white feathers or grays very well bleached to nearly white1 scour and rinse them well4 ,prepare a bath of warm water1 #ajj-abj ,f4 and some vinegar so as to give it a distinct sour taste2 add to a basin full1 or about one-half gallon of the bath a little solution of fast brown1 one or two drops of indigo carmine1 and a trace of turmeric4 ,lay the feathers down in the bath for fifteen or twenty minutes and agitate them repeatedly in the liquid to make them level4 ,for a ,gray ,beige1 add a little nigrosine to the bath and proceed as above4 ,,modes4 ,for the modes it is impossible to give generally applicable directions1 as these colors are of an indefinitely varying character1 consisting in modifications of other compound or mixed colors which are affected by sometimes very trifling1 unmeasureable additions of a toning dyestuff1 and coloring effects are produced which cannot be described nor defined by names1 but must be judged by the experienced eye of the dyer4 ,most of these colors are derived from grays or browns as above remarked1 and the safest way for the dyer is1 to begin dyeing with light shades of the prevalent characteristic color and give them the peculiar tone by the addition of other colors by drops4 ,the proportions of dyestuffs thus ascertained for light shades1 are then easy to increase for deeper shades4 ,it needs not to be remarked1 that for these colors the feathers must be bleached1 especially for light and medium shades1 and that1 if unbleached1 grays are to be dyed in dark shades1 the effect of the natural color must be considered in composing the dye4 ,in general all modes are dyed upon a bath which is acidulated with bisulphate of soda1 with azo orange1 azo yellow1 azo brown1 acid violet1 indigo carmine1 solid blue or cloth blue1 induline or nigrosine1 archil or acid fuchsine4 ,for brown modes1 solution of ,bismarck brown may be added at the beginning1 in which case the other dyestuffs serve only for giving the peculiar tone4 ,for a yellowish green mode take orange ,o1 azo yellow1 and solid blue 7fast blue72 for darker shades add a little violet #f ,b41 or a few drops sulphate of indigo4 ,if alizarine dyestuffs are to be employed1 use tartaric acid as mordant1 but for neutral dyestuffs add also a little alum to the dyebath4 ,for gray modes use the same dyestuffs as above1 excepting the orange1 instead of which a blue-red dyestuff is to be employed1 such as azo rubine1 bordeaux1 fuchsine1 etc41 with the addition of a little acid green4 ,the bath must be acidulated with a little sulphuric acid1 or better with tartaric acid1 or tartaric acid and alum1 and after dyeing the feathers must be rinsed1 starched and dried as usual4 ,for particularly fast modes add only tartaric acid to the dyebath and no alum1 and a few drops of solution of thio-scarlet1 thio-rubine1 and thio-brown2 for grays add a little azo yellow and sadden with solid blue4 ,alum does not agree with the thio dyestuffs which are manufactured by ,dahl ,co41 ,barmin1 and are fast against soap and light4 ,feathers dyed with these dyestuffs which have become soiled1 can be washed1 therefore1 with neutral soap without injury to the color1 but must naturally be dressed anew4 ,,reseda4 ,scour the white1 respectively bleached feathers and rinse well4 ,prepare a bath with five per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 bisulphate of soda1 to which add gradually and carefully the filtered solution of acid violet1 fast yellow and fuchsine ,s41 making the additions from the beginning in small quantities only1 until the desired tone and shade are obtained2 then enter and work the feathers to sample at #agc ,f4 ,it is for this dye particularly important that the bisulphate of soda used be crystallized1 that is1 pure bisulphate free from surplus sulphuric acid1 while the commercial article is often nothing but a mixture of ,glauber salt 7sulphate of soda7 into sulphuric acid1 answer for this dye4 ,a good reseda is also easily obtained by adding to the acidulated bath small quantities of decoction of logwood and turmeric1 so as to give a feeble bath4 ,enter the scoured and bleached feathers1 after rinsing1 at #agj ,f41 work them for about fifteen minutes1 until level1 and sadden with a little solution of blue stone4 ,rinse1 starch and dry as usual4 ,,ordinary ,,green4 ,for two and one-half pounds of feathers boil two and one-half pounds of fustic for one-half hour with three quarts of water1 pour the decoction off and boil the chips again for one-half hour with three quarts of water1 mix the two decoctions and strain4 ,add three ounces alum and one and one-half ounces tartar1 enter the feathers well scoured and rinsed1 and dye to shade at #agj ,f4 ,or1 prepare the dyestuffs of decoction of fustic or turmeric1 and indigo carmine1 according to shade1 enter at #agj ,f41 work for one-half hour while slowly raising the temperature to near the boiling point1 and dye to sample2 lift1 rinse1 squeeze and starch as usual4 ,,light ,,green4 ,i4 ,scour1 respectively bleach1 and rinse the feathers4 ,prepare a hot bath with the solution of forty per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 tannin1 and treat the feathers in it for #a hour at #agj;,f4 ,prepare a bath with a filtered solution of methyl green1 according to shade1 tone1 if a yellowish green is wanted1 with the clear solution of picric acid1 and dye to sample at #aej ,f4 ,lift1 squeeze and starch without rinsing4 ,,ii4 ,a better color is obtained upon a lightly acidulated bath 7with sulphuric acid7 with acid green1 malachite green1 fast green1 etc41 that is1 with the filtered solutions of these dyestuff's1 added to the bath in quantities of from ten to twenty per cent4 to suit the shade4 ,enter at #agj ,f42 dye for twenty or thirty minutes1 lift1 rinse1 squeeze and dry with starch4 ,if a yellowish tone is wanted1 add the clear solution of picric acid1 or of acid yellow4 ,,moss ,,green4 ,scour and rinse the feathers well2 for dark shades unbleached grays may be used4 ,prepare a feebly acidulated bath with sulphuric acid1 at a temperature near the boiling point2 add turmeric freely and ,guinea green ,g less4 ,enter the feathers and manipulate at the same temperature for fifteen or twenty minutes1 according to the desired tone1 re-enter and dye to shade4 ,by varying the proportions of the three dyestuffs1 a great variety of green-brownish modes can be produced1 which approach medium and dark bronzes the more the fast brown predominates in the composition of the color4 ,,bog ,,green4 ,this color is preferably dyed upon unbleached gray feathers4 ,scour and rinse them1 prepare a decoction of green walnut husks or of sumac2 lay the feathers down in it for two hours1 working them from time to time2 then add some decoction of logwood and dye to shade at #agj ,f41 or indigo carmine and dye to shade while slowly raising the temperature to near the boiling point4 ,rinse1 squeeze1 starch and dry4 ,,grass ,,green4 ,scour1 respectively bleach1 and rinse the feathers4 ,prepare a boiling bath with turmeric and indigo carmine2 chill1 enter the feathers at #agj ,f41 dye for one-half hour1 raise the temperature slowly to near the boiling point and dye to shade1 take up1 rinse and pass through a handwarm bath of tartar2 lift1 squeeze1 starch and dry4 ,,russia ,,green4 ,i4 ,scour the feathers as usual and rinse well4 ,prepare a bath slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid1 add two per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 acid green and one per cent4 aniline navy blue dissolved in warm water and filtered acid1 according to sample1 some filtered decoction of turmeric or solution of fast yellow4 ,dye at #agj ,f4 to shade1 lift rinse and dry with starch4 ,,ii4 ,have the feathers well cleaned and rinsed4 ,prepare a bath twenty per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 new green1 eight per cent4 canarine1 sixteen per cent4 aniline blue black1 sixty per cent4 alum1 and one-quarter litre sulphuric acid 7for two and a half pounds of feathers74 ,bring the bath to a brisk boil1 then chill with cold water1 enter the feathers and work them for one hour2 finally sadden and tone by adding some decoction of fustic and of logwood4 ,lift1 rinse1 squeeze1 starch and dry4 ,,iii4 ,prepare a sharp hot bath with a little sulphuric acid2 add ,guinea green1 according to shade1 and tone by the addition of indigo carmine and turmeric2 for very deep shades add also some nigrosine or fast blue-black1 dissolved and filtered4 ,enter as hot as the feathers can be handled1 work for one half hour2 then raise the temperature slowly to near the boiling point and dye to shade4 ,the bath for deeper shades being not exhausted can be preserved for further use1 refreshed by suitable additions of dyestuffs as required1 but caution must be used as regards the subsequent additions of sulphuric acid1 that not so much be added as to injure the feathers4 ,for ,russia green1 especially the darker shades of it1 naturally gray and even black feathers can be used unbleached4 ,,rose4 ,i4 ,for this delicate color1 as well as for the lightest shades of blue and pure yellow1 absolutely white feathers must be used2 scour them carefully and rinse them perfectly clean from soap or soda1 and have the dyestuffs well dissolved and the solutions filtered4 ,prepare a handwarm bath with a little tartaric acid or acetic acid1 to which some solution of eosine1 rhodamine1 azoeosine1 safranine1 coccine or ponceau #f ,r4 ,b4 or ponceau ,r4 ,r4 ,be particularly cautious in adding the dyestuff solutions gradually in small quantities1 even by drops1 to avoid over-dyeing1 as by partly stripping of a too dark shade1 a fine color can never be obtained1 and the nature of the material demands that all unnecessary handling be avoided4 ,after dyeing1 rinse lightly1 pass through starch and dry4 ,the dyes with the ponceaus are faster than those with eosine or safranine4 ,,ii4 ,prepare a bath at hand heat with carthamine 7extract of safflower71 well dissolved and filtered1 which add very gradually in small quantities1 taking up the feathers each time before making a fresh addition1 until the desired shade is nearly obtained1 then add a little tartaric acid to the bath1 re-enter the feathers and dye to shade2 or dye first to shade upon the safflower bath1 and then pass through a fresh1 handwarm feeble bath of tartaric acid1 which in this case can be used again for other colors1 either as a fixing bath or in the composition of the dye bath4 ,,red4 ,scour and rinse the feathers well2 grays must be bleached as near to white as possible1 and these ought only to be dyed dark shades of red4 ,prepare a bath with twenty per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 bisulphate of soda1 and see1 as in all cases1 that it is well crystallized and dry4 7,never use the article when it looks decayed1 forms lumps or is moist74 ,add four to six per cent4 azo red1 according to the shade wanted1 raise the temperature to #agj ,f41 enter the feathers and work to shade2 take out1 starch and dry4 ,,fast ,,alizarine ,,red4 ,i4 ,scour and rinse the white1 respectively bleached gray1 feathers and prepare a bath of boiling water with eight per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 alum1 four per cent4 tartaric acid1 two or three per cent4 oxalic acid1 and three per cent4 alizarine red2 let the bath boil for fifteen minutes1 then let the temperature go down just below the boiling point4 ,lay down the feathers in the bath1 which keep at near the boiling point for at least one hour before allowing it to go down to hand-heat2 then continue for two or three hours longer1 agitating the feathers from time to time2 lift1 rinse1 starch and dry4 ,by using alizarine acid #b ,a4 bl4 bl41 a pure red1 similar to ,turkey red is obtained4 ,alizarine #a ,w4 ,s4 gives scarlets4 ,if the feathers are passed1 before rinsing1 through a strong soap bath1 pretty blue tones are produced4 ,,ii4 ,for a fuller red1 striking towards bordeau1 prepare a well concentrated boiling bath in the same manner with three per cent4 bichromate of potash1 one and one-half to two per cent4 tartaric acid1 one per cent4 oxalic acid1 and eight per cent4 alizarine red #b ,a4 bl4 bl4 ,when all is dissolved1 let the temperature go down below the boiling point1 enter the feathers1 and proceed as above4 ,,scarlet4 ,i4 ,for this color naturally white feathers are preferably used1 but well bleached grays may also be employed2 scour and rinse well4 ,then fill your pan with boiling water1 add a few handfuls of bran1 let it well boil up1 remove the bran from the bath and rub the feathers in the bath as in washing2 then pass them three times through clean1 cold water4 ,while the feathers are draining1 prepare another fresh bath of lukewarm water1 to which add a little chloride of tin and1 for one pound of feathers1 about two pinches of starch and ninety grammes cochineal2 then bring the bath to boil and let it gently boil for eight or ten minutes1 shut off the steam or remove the pan from the fire1 let it stand for a few minutes4 ,then lay the feathers down in the bath1 taking care that they are well kept down in the liquid1 work for twenty minutes diligently1 then let them lodge in the bath for six to eight hours4 ,as the combination of cochineal and the chloride is readily oxydized and changed to violet by the oxygen of the air1 it is advisable to dye in a tinned pan with cover to shut out the air4 ,then pass through three lukewarm waters1 the last of which contains a little chloride of tin and about a pinch of cream of tartar4 ,,ii4 ,prepare a hot bath with twenty per cent4 7of the weight of feathers7 bisulphate of soda1 well crystallized and dry1 and four to six per cent4 azo red1 according to shade4 ,enter the feathers at #agj ,f41 dye to sample in fifteen or twenty minutes1 lift1 starch and dry4 ,according to the brand of azo red which is used1 either scarlet or ponceau is obtained4 ,by mixing the various brands of azo red1 a very fine ponceau is produced4 ,if a very blue tone is desired1 add to the bath some solution of coccinine 7azo red blue touch74 ,,ponceau4 ,i4 ,scour and rinse the white1 respectively bleached feathers well4 ,prepare a nearly boiling bath1 acidulated with sulphuric acid1 to which simply add ponceau ,r4 ,r4 extra4 ,enter the feathers1 operate at boiling heat one-half hour1 then lay down the feathers and let them lodge until level2 lift1 rinse1 starch and dry4 ,,ii4 ,prepare a sharp handwarm bath with one per cent4 tartaric acid 7of the weight of feathers71 or with one per cent4 ,glauber salt and one-fourth per cent4 sulphuric acid1 to which add the filtered solutions of ponceau ,r4 ,b41 ponceau #f ,r4 ,b41 and eosine ,s4 extra ,b4 ,enter the feathers and agitate for twenty to thirty minutes1 or until the desired shade is obtained2 lift1 rinse1 starch and dry4 ,,iii4 ,lay down the feathers for four hours in a cold bath in which some chloride of tin has been dissolved2 then dye for one-half hour in a hand warm bath of cochineal1 lift and dry4 ,,iv4 ,prepare a bath with one and one-half per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 saccharic acid1 one-quarter per cent4 tin salt1 and six to seven per cent4 cochineal1 bring the bath to boil for one minute2 then chill4 ,enter the scoured and rinsed feathers at hand heat1 dye for three-quarters of an hour1 take up and expose them for two hours to the air1 rinse1 starch and dry4 ,,bordeaux4 ,scour and rinse the feathers well4 ,prepare a boiling hot bath slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid1 to which add a liberal quantity of ponceau #f ,r4 ,b41 a few drops solution of aniline blue1 and some yellow dyestuff1 such as turmeric1 fast yellow1 or quinoline yellow1 and bring the bath to boil for a few minutes4 ,then chill to sharp hand-heat1 enter the feathers and work until level1 and sample2 if still too light1 add some more of all these dyestuffs4 ,as the bath shows from the beginning the color it will produce1 it can be corrected before entering the feathers4 ,,garnet 7,,red74 ,i4 ,scour and rinse the feathers well clean1 grays ought to be bleached4 ,prepare the dyebath as for ponceau 7,i471 or use an old ponceau bath1 and add to it some aniline cerise 7cherry red7 and very little extract of indigo1 or solution of fast blue-black4 ,enter feathers as hot as possible to handle1 work for fifteen to twenty minutes while raising the temperature to boiling heat2 then stop heating1 lay down the feathers1 and let them lodge until level2 lift1 rinse and dry4 ,,ii4 ,prepare a boiling hot1 not boiling1 bath of anotto1 according to shade1 enter the feathers1 work them well through1 then lay them down in the bath for twelve hours4 ,take them up1 rinse1 pass through a moderately strong alum bath1 rinse again1 and dye at #agj;,f41 with either decoction of red wood 7brazil1 camwood1 etc417 or fuchsine2 lift and dry4 ,,garnet 7,,brown74 ,for very deep shades naturally gray feathers may be used unbleached with proper consideration of the tone of the bottom color4 ,have the feathers well cleaned and rinsed1 and add to a bath of two gallons of water1 one and one-quarter pounds cudbear and five ounces turmeric4 ,bring the bath to boil1 boil for five or ten minutes1 let cool down to #ajj ,f41 enter the feathers and dye to shade4 ,lift1 starch and dry4 ,or1 utilize a used ruby bath 7following7 and add to it five ounces turmeric4 ,,ruby4 ,for a good color the feathers must be white1 naturally or bleached2 scour and rinse them well4 ,add to two gallons of water one and one-half pounds good cudbear1 stir well1 enter the feathers and work them1 while slowly heating1 as long as the hands can stand it4 ,then lay them down until colored to shade1 lift1 rinse well1 starch and dry4 ,,salmon4 ,i4 ,salmon or flesh may be dyed upon bleached naturally gray feathers1 in which case the creamy tint of the feathers must be taken into consideration and can be utilized for certain broken tones of the color4 ,have the feathers well washed in soap or soda1 and rinsed perfectly clean4 ,for dyeing prepare a bath as for rose1 preferably with ponceau ,b4 ,r41 or utilize an old bath for rose1 according to its strength and the shade to be produced1 and add in either case a suitable1 small quantity of filtered decoction of turmeric4 ,proceed as stated for dyeing rose1 with the difference only1 that the acid may be added to the dyebath at once1 if the bath is made fresh4 ,particularly fine shades are obtained with rhodamine and turmeric1 in a bath slightly acidulated with acetic acid1 upon bleached grays4 ,,ii4 ,prepare a bath as for rose1 with some solution of eosine1 a little quinoline yellow1 according to tone1 and a little acetic acid1 just enough to give the bath a slightly sour taste4 ,enter the well cleaned1 or bleached feathers after rinsing1 at hand heat and agitate them until the bath is well exhausted1 or a level color1 according to sample1 obtained1 rinse lightly1 starch and dry4 ,,amaranth4 ,after scouring and rinsing1 prepare a bath with one and one-half ounces alum per gallon of water1 at #ge-hj ,f41 and lay the feathers down in it over night4 ,on the next morning rinse them in cold water2 then dye them at hand-heat to nearly boiling heat in a strained decoction of ,brazil wood 7or camwood1 hypernic1 etc47 until the required shade is obtained1 and rinse in warm water to which some tartar has been added2 starch and dry4 ,,bronze4 ,for this color naturally gray feathers may be used if a deep shade is to be dyed2 for light shades they ought to be bleached4 ,scour and rinse the feathers well2 then prepare a bath with five per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 bisulphate of soda1 to which add azo orange1 acid violet and extract of archil4 ,dissolve the dyestuffs1 each separately in water1 filter1 add the clear solutions gradually in small quantities until the shade is nearly reached1 then1 in order to correct1 by drops1 until the exact depth and tone are obtained4 ,enter the feathers and dye to shade at #agj ,f4 ,instead of acid violet indigo carmine may be used2 in this case1 however1 as the dyestuff runs up slowly and difficultly1 work at #agj ,f41 for twenty to thirty minutes1 then raise the temperature slowly to near the boiling point and continue at that temperature1 without actual boiling1 until the required color is obtained4 ,then rinse1 squeeze1 starch and dry4 ,bronze is also produced like drab1 that is1 with azo orange1 acid violet and fuchsine ,s41 but with greater quantities of dyestuff4 ,bronze is also obtained with the recipe for any dark brown1 by making the yellow in it predominant2 particularly good bronzes are in this manner obtained from dark chestnut brown4 ,,olive4 ,i4 ,clean the feathers by laying them down for six hours1 or over night1 in a weak warm solution of soda crystals 7#a ,b47 to which add so much ammonia as to give it a faint odor2 take up when completely ungreased and rinse well in lukewarm and cold waters4 ,prepare the dyebath with five per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 bisulphate of soda1 to which add filtered solutions of indigo carmine1 archil and fast yellow as required for the sample4 ,as the indigo carmine is slow to dye up and requires boiling heat or a temperature near it1 dye first the feathers blue with indigo carmine1 then let the bath cool down to #agj ,f41 and add the solutions of archil and fast yellow in small successive quantities1 so as to be able to give the accurate tone4 ,instead of extract of archil1 fast red or bordeaux may be employed4 ,to avoid any possible injury to the feathers by the high temperature necessary for indigo carmine to run up1 in its stead a solution of alkaline blue or of acid ,victoria blue4 ,take up and dry the feathers without rinsing4 ,,ii4 ,scour well and rinse the feathers1 and prepare a bath with three per cent4 alum 7of the weight of feathers71 to which add azo orange and some indigo carmine2 enter at #agj ,f41 dye for fifteen or twenty minutes1 then raise the temperature slowly to near the boiling point and dye to shade4 ,lift and dry4 ,by beginning with small quantities of the dyestuffs and successively increasing them and varying their proportions1 a series of fine shades from light old gold to the deepest olive1 near black can be produced4 ,,iii4 ,prepare a boiling bath1 in which dissolve one per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 alum1 one per cent4 ,glauber salt1 and add a little sulphuric acid2 let cool down to #agj ,f41 add some fast yellow1 a little solution of archil and of sulphate of indigo1 work for fifteen minutes while raising the temperature to the boiling point1 and sadden with blue black1 lift1 rinse and dry with starch4 ,,iv4 ,prepare a sharp handwarm bath with a little sulphuric acid1 to which add the clear solution of a little quinoline yellow or turmeric1 and acid green2 enter the feathers and work for fifteen minutes1 or until they have taken a sufficiently nourished yellow-green color2 then take them up1 add to the bath some solution of fast brown1 as required by the sample and dye at #agj ,f4 to shade2 rinse1 squeeze1 starch and dry4 ,the brown dyestuff must be added very carefully in small doses1 best by drops1 in order to obtain with certainty any of the great varieties of shades1 from olive green to olive brown1 as required4 ,,violet4 ,naturally gray feathers may be used unbleached1 but only for very deep shades as the bottom color acts dulling upon the dye1 and brilliant colors can only be obtained upon a pure white bottom4 ,scour1 respectively bleach well1 and rinse clean4 ,prepare a hot bath to which add some filtered solution of methyl violet1 according to tone1 that is1 more or less blue1 enter the feathers and work until cool1 then add gradually more dyestuff solution according to shade while raising the temperature to near the boiling point and continue at this temperature until the desired shade is nearly obtained4 ,if too blue1 tone with a little solution of fuchsine ,s4 ,towards the end of the operation take up the feathers1 add some alum to the bath1 and when it is dissolved1 shut off the steam1 re-enter the feathers and work to shade for about ten minutes4 ,then lift1 rinse and dry4 ,,heliotrope ,,and ,,lilac4 ,i4 ,these colors being simply medium and light shades of violet1 proceed as for the latter color1 selecting for heliotrope the bluish brands of methyl violet1 and for lilac the red touch mark4 ,the dyebath is acidified with a little tartaric acid1 so as to give it a feeble sourish taste and dyeing done at hand-heat until a level color is obtained with very little solution of the dyestuff1 and more of it gradually added1 while the temperature is raised to nearly boiling1 as required for the shade to be produced4 ,or1 ,,ii4 ,prepare the dyebath simply of cold water acidulated with a little sulphuric acid1 add a few drops of the filtered solution of methyl violet 7#d ,b4 for heliotrope71 and dye to shade without heating4 ,in both cases rinse after dyeing1 pass through a bath of raw starch and dye as usual4 ,,cream4 ,i4 ,the lightest shade of this delicate color can be produced upon naturally gray ostrich feathers by simply bleaching them2 this color1 however1 is extremely sensitive1 probably because the action of peroxyd of hydrogen continues under the influence of the oxygen of the air4 ,bleached grays require1 therefore1 dying as well as naturally white feathers4 ,the feathers being well scoured and rinsed1 prepare in a white basin 7preferable to the copper pans1 because the coloring of the dyebath is easier and more correctly discerned over the white bottom7 a bath of pretty hot water1 to which add a pinch of tartaric acid1 and a little decoction of turmeric or solution of fast aniline yellow or of azo yellow1 but only enough to give the water a light tint2 work the feathers in it for four to six minutes4 ,then sample and correct1 if necessary1 by adding more dyestuff solution4 ,the shade being obtained1 pass through cold water1 starch and dry us usual4 ,,ii4 ,prepare in a white basin a handwarm bath with three or four drops of sulphuric acid and a few drops of the filtered solutions of picric acid1 fast aniline yellow1 quinoline yellow1 or mandaric yellow extra1 but preferably turmeric which dyes up more evenly than the other dyestuffs4 ,enter the feathers and agitate them for fifteen or twenty minutes2 then lay them down in the bath for one-half hour longer to insure a level dye2 lift1 draw through lukewarm water1 starch and dry4 ,,white ,,and ,,black4 ,science teaches that white is the source of light or the product of combination of all other colors1 because the light of the sun1 which is assumed to be white1 when broken up by means of a prism1 shows in its image reflected upon a white plain1 the three primary1 and three secondary colors with the uncounted number of intermediary products of combinations of fractions of the primary colors forming the transition from one to the other1 which can be perceived by the eye but not exactly separated from one another1 but may quantitatively determined to an approximate degree of accuracy4 ,black1 on the other hand1 is described as the absence of all light1 and it is denied1 therefore1 by theory a place among the colors4 ,practice asserts the direct contrary of the theory developed by science by way of conclusion4 ,while philosophers assert that they have succeeded in producing white light by the combination of lights of the various colors1 for which combination1 however1 they give no formula1 no dyer with the greatest patience and with the most subtile proportioning of dyestuffs1 giving pure reproductions of the primary colors as seen in the spectrum or image of the broken sunbeam1 can ever be able to produce anything of a color approaching white4 ,but every dyer knows how to produce white by bleaching1 that is1 by the destruction of all color4 ,and this operation is comparatively simple and easy to perform1 since the great achievements of modern chemistry have placed into the hand of the dyer the most energetic and effectious color destroying agents4 ,the ostrich feather dyer of to-day is able to convert naturally gray and even black feathers into nearly pure white1 which undertaking his father would have called the boast of a deranged mind and an absolute physical impossibility4 ,and with the aid of a complementary color dyed upon the bleached feathers the tint remaining upon them is obliterated1 or neutralized1 which operation is generally called white dyeing1 although certainly white cannot be dyed with a blue or violet dyestuff as little as blue or violet can be produced with a yellow dyestuff4 ,black1 on the other hand1 although the name and rank of a color is denied it by the doctrines of theory is1 for the dyer1 most essentially a color requiring for its production the contribution of all colors1 as can be shown by a simple experiment4 ,if1 for instance1 within a circle1 three equal circles1 whose diameters are greater than half the diameter of the surrounding circle1 are printed1 one blue1 one red and one yellow1 so that the points of contact with the periphery of the outer circle are equidistant from one another1 or form a regular triangle1 their segments overlapping one another form four spherical triangles1 one violet where red and blue cover one another1 one orange where red and yellow come together1 one green where yellow and blue are mixed1 but the fourth is the centre1 where parts of the three differently colored segments cover one another1 is black1 but toned by the color of the greatest intensity4 ,in fact1 black requires for its production more color1 and is more difficult to dye than any color of the spectrum4 ,it is not strange1 therefore1 that many more methods have been proposed and have been tried and adopted to dye black than for the production of any other color4 ,yet all these blacks are more or less tinted and are nothing more than the deepest shade1 which can be produced with the aid of metallic salts1 of blue1 brown1 gray1 violet1 green and even red4 ,the only black upon ostrich feathers which may be justly called an absolute black is that produced after the method of ,mr4 ,paul1 as described in the front part of this book 7page #ec-ef74 ,it presents1 besides1 the advantage1 that it can be completely done in eighteen minutes1 while there are older methods which require not less than three days4 ,such1 of course1 will find no room here1 but only the most reliable and expeditious1 and safest of the older methods will be selected with due regard both to beauty of color and preservation of the precious material4 ,,white4 ,naturally white ostrich feathers and bleached grays1 like all material taken from the animal realm1 retains even after scouring and bleaching a more or less noticeable yellowish tint1 which becomes visible after some time even upon such as appear snow-white immediately after scouring4 ,the cause is1 probably1 that the fat which is contained in feathers1 as well as in wool and hair1 and a part of which remains after the cleaning process1 is oxydized by the action of the air4 ,to perfectly and completely extract this remaining small amount of fat which does not hinder the subsequent dyeing operations1 is not advisable2 for1 it has been observed that in that case1 the feathers become brittle1 and for this reason1 scouring with soap is preferable to scouring with soda4 ,it has been observed that colored matter taken from the animal body in the course of time loses its brilliancy of color and becomes dull2 white feathers turn yellowish1 even if perfectly protected against dust4 ,to prevent this alteration1 the bleached feathers are dyed white1 or rather blued or tinted2 that is1 the brilliancy of the white is heightened and the faint yellowish tinge neutralized by the application of a very light1 scarcely perceptible tint of a complementary color4 ,for this purpose1 for instance1 indigo carmine 7greenish white71 indigo carmine with a very small addition of ammoniacal cochineal 7reddish white71 induline or extract of indigo 7bluish white71 or methyl violet #f ,b4 7direct white71 are employed1 and a few drops of acid added to the bath1 either sulphuric1 acetic or oxalic acid4 ,the acid1 however1 can be dispensed with1 as it scarcely has anything to act upon1 and as only a diminutive amount of it is employed1 the blued feathers are not rinsed but immediately dried from the blue-bath4 ,the additions of dyestuff to baths must be made so small that they do not affect a coloring of the feathers but only a faint tinting4 ,rather too little dyestuff may be added1 which defect can at all times be corrected by adding a few drops more of the coloring solution1 than too much4 ,in the latter case it would become necessary to bleach the feathers again and go over the whole process of preparing the raw material for dyeing4 ,,black4 ,i4 ,,chrome ,,black4--,black being the most difficult color to produce1 as above remarked1 the feathers require a specially careful preparatory treatment in order to remove everything that might interfere with the purity1 uniformity and brilliancy of the color1 or cause less dyed1 dull spots and streaks4 ,naturally gray feathers1 however1 need not to be bleached or decolorized but only careful treatment and attention4 ,the feathers are for twenty-four hours laid down in a solution of twice their weight of calcined soda1 ammonia soda being preferable for this purpose to ,lablanc soda 7old process soda71 then taken up and carefully rinsed clean from the alkaline in warm water1 or better1 in two warm waters4 ,in the case of particularly valuable feathers it is recommendable1 before laying them down in the soda solution1 to rub the stains of the feathers off with a piece of carbonate of ammonia or with a large soda crystal4 ,after rinsing1 the feathers are entered for one hour1 at #agj ,f41 in a bath containing forty per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 chromate of potash1 forty per cent4 copperas1 and twenty per cent4 tartar1 and several times turned and agitated during the specified period while the entering temperature is maintained4 ,then the feathers are taken up1 and the adhering liquid squeezed out by hand or by rolling them through a clothes wringer with rubber roller4 ,in the meantime a logwood bath of medium concentration is prepared either with a fresh decoction or with extract of logwood and twenty per cent4 ,marsailles soap dissolved in it4 ,the feathers are entered in this bath at hand-heat1 diligently agitated for twenty or thirty minutes and1 if necessary1 while the temperature is raised to #bjj ,f41 laid down in the bath until the correct shade and a level dye are obtained4 ,the feathers are then lifted1 squeezed1 very thoroughly rinsed in cold water1 passed through starch and dried with frequent shaking1 respectively beating upon the board or between the hands4 ,it occurs sometimes1 that the stems of the feathers are imperfectly died and present light brown or gray places4 ,this is attributable to insufficient scouring4 ,in this case the defective portions of the stems must be scraped with a sharp penknife and dyed over4 ,this operation1 however1 is difficult and requires much practice and a light hand1 as too much scraping removes the horny glossy surface of the stem and1 when dyed over1 the only change effected is1 that a dull black mark takes the place of the discolored or brown spot4 ,often1 however1 the defect can be remedied by touching the imperfect portions up with a feeble alcoholic solution of shellac1 in which some nigrosine is dissolved4 ,with properly scoured feathers this mishap does not occur4 ,another trouble1 however1 which is not unfrequent with blacks1 is that the feathers are over-dyed and become brownish black instead of black4 ,but in this case the remedy is as simple as its occurrence is frequent2 a quick passage through sulphuric acid diluted with water to #b ,b4 strips off the excessive dye and produces a good color4 ,besides1 this operation gives the feathers a brilliant lustre4 ,many dyers1 therefore1 methodically avail themselves of this effect of sulphuric acid and deliberately over dye their feathers 7,see ,,iv below7 and then apply the sulphuric acid passage for the purpose of imparting the feathers that peculiar lustre4 ,a passage through a solution of sodium chloride1 of #b ,b4 strength1 has the same effect as a passage in sulphuric acid #b ,b4 ,for this purpose lay the feathers down in the warm sodium chloride solution1 until the black cotton strings with which the feathers have been tied together1 as in the beginning described1 begin to turn gray4 ,then take up the feathers1 rinse them very thoroughly in cold water1 drain1 starch and dry4 ,sodium chloride can be prepared in a simple way as follows3 rub one-half pound fresh chloride of lime in a porcelain mortar with a little water into a smooth milk1 which pour into a bucket1 dilute with cold water1 and add1 under stirring1 the solution of one pound ,glauber salt2 let settle and use the clear liquid4 ,instead of ,glauber salt 7sodium sulphate71 soda crystals 7sodium carbonate7 may be used2 the latter1 however1 is a little higher in price and renders the solution strongly alkaline4 ,,ii4 ,,iron ,,black4--,lay down the feathers over night in a warm bath1 in which one hundred per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 soda crystals have been dissolved4 ,on the following day take them up1 squeeze them out and lay them down for two hours in a proportionally strong solution of carbonate of ammonia1 take them up and rinse well in warm water4 ,lay down for six hours upon a bath of nitrate of iron #aj ,b42 take up1 rinse1 and dye at #agj ,f4 with the decoction of ten per cent4 logwood in which five per cent4 ,marseilles soap has been dissolved4 ,if a dead black is wanted1 add some decoction of quercitron or turmeric to the bath4 ,the desired depth being obtained1 lift1 rinse1 starch and dry4 ,in case the color is over-dyed1 strip with sodium chloride 7or sulphuric acid7 #b ,b41 as above described1 drain1 squeeze and dry4 ,,iii4 ,,logwood ,,black4--,scour and rinse the feathers well4 ,prepare a bath with three per cent41 of the weight of feathers1 carbonate of lime1 six per cent4 blue stone1 and five per cent4 tartar4 ,enter the feathers at #agj ,f41 maintain this temperature for one hour2 then let it go down1 but leave the feathers in the bath for six hours longer1 agitating them frequently during that time4 ,take them up1 drain and squeeze1 or centrifugate1 and enter a handwarm bath containing some decoction of logwood1 to which some decoction of fustic is added4 ,work for fifteen or twenty minutes1 then raise the temperature to nearly boiling heat4 ,continue adding decoction of logwood1 until a nourished black is obtained4 ,this dye being hard to correct by the ordinary means1 the additions of logwood decoction must be made with caution towards the end of the operation1 in order to prevent over-dyeing4 ,if a brownish touch is desired1 add some more decoction of fustic when the black is nearly done4 ,then lift1 rinse1 starch and dry as usual under continual agitation1 beating and shaking of the feathers4 ,this chrome black is superior to iron black1 because it imparts1 to the ostrich feathers1 more lustre4 ,,iv4 ,whatever kind of feathers are to be dyed1 white1 grays or old blacks1 wash them perfectly clean in two or three warm soap baths and remove the soap by rinsing in two or three warm and several cold waters4 ,colored feathers which are to be redyed blacks must be stripped of their color as much as possible by washing in hot soap to which some ammonia is added1 whereupon this must be rinsed in several waters absolutely clear from soap and alkali2 it is an erroneous notion to neutralize the last trace of alkali which may remain1 by a passage through a feeble acid bath4 ,the feathers thus prepared for dyeing1 make a bath of two parts nitrate of iron to one part hot water at #agj ,f41 enter the feathers1 work them through a few times1 and then lay them down in the bath for twelve hours 7over night74 ,then lift and rinse the feathers in several 7three or four7 cold waters ,prepare a pretty strong decoction of logwood and fustic1 for which take two parts of the former to one part of the latter2 let the temperature go down to about #bjh-baj ,f41 when enter the feathers and maintain that temperature for fifteen or twenty minutes4 ,then shut off the steam or remove the dye-vessel from the fire1 as the case may be1 and let the feathers cool in the bath4 ,when cold take them out1 prepare a fresh bath of logwood and fustic like the first1 enter the feathers at #bjh-baj ,f41 after fifteen or twenty minutes add about a teaspoonful of copperas for one gallon of water1 and leave the feathers in the bath for six or eight hours longer2 then lift and rinse in several cold waters4 ,the feathers are at this stage black with a strong brown touch which is removed by a cleaning bath of ,eau de ,javelle 7sodium chloride74 ,the latter is prepared by rubbing one-quarter pound chloride of lime to a smooth milk with a little cold water 7in a porcelain or a marble mortar7 and adding this milk to the solution of one-half pound ,glauber salt in three parts water4 ,after good stirring the mixture is then allowed to settle1 when the clear solution is poured off and put up for use in well stoppered bottles4 ,of this liquid so much is added to a basin or pan full of warm water that it gives a slippery feel between the fingers1 similar to that of a solution of soda4 ,in this bath the feathers are agitated for six or eight minutes1 or until the liquid has assumed a yellowish color4 ,then the feathers are taken out1 rinse in two or three warm waters1 passed through raw starch1 pressed out between several laps of a clean piece of muslin1 and dried either by rubbing them in pulverized and sifted potato starch or by shaking them before an open fire or gas-flame4 ,the nitrate of iron bath can be preserved and used for the same purpose for eight or ten days1 but the first logwood bath becomes useless and is let out4 ,as above observed 7,i7 sulphuric acid can also be employed for correcting the over-dyed feathers and reducing that brownish color to a pure lustrous black1 but a much shorter passage is given3 the feathers are entered by single strings1 well opened1 agitated in the sulphuric acid bath for a few seconds1 and immediately rinsed4 ,where week work is done1 it is advisable to have two men employed at this operation1 one of whom passes the feathers in the acid bath and hands them over to the other man for rinsing4 ,,contrasts ,,and ,,shadings1 ,,or ,,ombrees4 ,fashion and fancy sometimes requires the dyer of ostrich feathers to dye upon one feather two1 or even three contrasting colors1 or different shades of the same color1 that is1 the tips of the feathers in another color or shade than that of the lower part of the feather4 ,generally in these combinations the tip is dyed the lighter color or shade1 and the lower part considerably deeper or in a heavier color4 ,very popular combinations are3 the tip light blue and the bottom brown1 the tip rose and the lower part bordeaux1 the tip light orange or dark yellow and the lower part garnet brown1 tip rose with olive bottom part1 or even three colors1 such as the tip rose1 the part below it medium olive green1 and the lowest part deep violet4 ,that such combinations are very handsome cannot be asserted2 but fashion dictates1 and fancy sometimes prefers oddity to beauty4 ,more rational are at any rate the ombres1 or combinations of two or three shades of the same color upon one feather4 ,the operation is the same for both styles2 but contrasts are generally dyed only upon single feathers1 while ombres1 being in greater demand1 are dyed by strings or even in greater lots4 ,the feathers being scoured and rinsed as usual1 are first dyed wholly in the lightest color or shade to be produced1 according to recipe1 say light blue for the tip1 and dried4 ,then wrap the top1 as far as it is to be light blue1 in paper 7some dyers use for this purpose oiled or waxed paper7 and tie the paper firmly1 but not so hard as to injure the feather1 with a string1 not so loosely as to allow the paper envelope to slip out of place during the manipulation4 ,then1 holding the feathers by the top1 dip them into the boiling hot bath for the other color1 or shade1 to be dyed1 but only so deep that the paper just touches the surface of the dye-liquid4 ,this method is the safest for learners or new beginners4 ,for more experienced workers it is unnecessary to use the paper wrapping2 they simply first dye the light bottom shade1 dry or not1 according to the characters of the two colors 7for shadings1 half-dry feathers1 that is1 drained and squeezed out1 are rather preferable71 and loosely hold them in the bath for the second color1 or deeper shade4 ,they have it thereby in their power to effect a more gradual transition from one color or shade to the other4 ,as the color becomes deeper1 the longer the feather is immersed in the bath1 it is plain that the dyer can easily produce upon one feather a complete graduated scale of shades4 ,each time1 after a shade has been dyed to the required depth1 the feathers are rinsed in cold water and some more dyestuff solution added to the bath4 ,these additions require good judgment1 because too much dyestuff added would cause an abrupt1 dull contrast instead of a desirable gradual shaking off1 or transition from one shade to the other4 ,there ought only a little more dyestuff be added each time1 than has been absorbed from the bath by dyeing the preceding shade4 ,if paper wrappings are used1 they must naturally be untied for rinsing and replaced by longer pieces before entering the bath for the following darker shade4 ,after rinsing the feathers must always be well squeezed out4 ,if two colors are to be dyed1 for instance light blue tip with brown lower part1 dye first the whole feather light blue1 rinse1 dry1 tie up the tip in paper1 and dye the lower half brown4 ,it needs not to be mentioned that for dyeing two or three contrasting colors upon one feather only such dyes must be chosen as can serve for bottoming and topping one another without materially altering the character of the topping color4 ,,edgings ,,or ,,borders4 ,for this style of feather dyeing1 use feathers of good quality1 with wide and well developed vanes4 ,they are dyed in two colors and shades only1 presenting one color1 mostly of a light shade1 or a white black on both sides along the stems1 while the outer edges for the vanes1 or ends of the fibres1 are dyed in a different color or darker shade4 ,they make a particularly handsome effect when curled over the stem1 setting off the edges in a fine contrast against the black showing through the curls4 ,to produce edgings an oval pan1 as described in the beginning1 or other dye-vessel of greater length than the feathers1 and three or four inches deep must be used4 ,the well scoured1 respectively bleached1 and rinsed feathers are first dyed the color for the middle part1 as usual on strings4 ,after rinsing and drying they are taken off from the strings and edged singly4 ,for this purpose prepare the dye-bath for the edging color1 heat to the proper temperature1 take the tip and quill respectively between the fore-finger and the thumb of both hands1 dip the feathers edgewise1 that is1 with the ends of the fibres on one side of the stem1 or the edge of the vane only1 into the dye-bath as deep as the edging is to be wide1 and move the feather in this position horizontally forward and backward in the bath until the shade is obtained4 ,then place the feather between several laps of clean dry muslin1 squeeze it out by passing the hand over it1 and dye the other edge in the same manner as the first4 ,finally rinse1 starch and dry the feather as usual4 ,in this connection a chemical reaction is worthy of mention1 which was discovered about two years ago by an accident1 and may be advantageously employed for the production of edgings upon ostrich feathers1 if further developed by experiments4 ,in a large feather-dyeing establishment1 in ,berlin1 a sheet of paper which had been wetted with ammonia1 and had become dry1 had been left on a work-table1 when one of the employees1 who was handling a lot of feathers freshly dyed with methyl violet1 inadvertently put one of the feathers1 which was still moist1 upon the impregnated paper4 ,after a while1 when the feather was picked up1 it was found that the violet1 all round the edge of the feather1 had turned brilliant green1 producing a very pleasing effect4 ,it is rational to suppose that with mixed colors1 in whose composition methyl violet largely enters1 similar effects can be produced by the action of ammonia2 and probably the same is the case with other aniline dyestuffs4 ,,gilding ,,and ,,silvering4 ,gilded and silvered ostrich feathers are but seldom in demand1 and then only for grand evening dresses or stage effects1 and for short seasons1 which generally return far between4 ,their production is by no means a dyeing process1 but rather an operation of surface ornamentation1 still the dyer is sometimes requested to perform it4 ,while goose feathers and other feathers of small value are wholly gilded or silvered1 the gilding of ostrich feathers consists chiefly in a sprinkling with metallic dots1 or sometimes in an edging1 or is only applied to the tip of the feathers1 which1 from the nature of the operation1 are treated singly4 ,such ornamented feathers1 white as well as dyed1 being only used for short periods1 a permanent fixation of the gold or silver upon them is not required1 but rather undesirable1 as they will soon be redyed for other uses4 ,for gilding1 respectively silvering1 a sufficiently adhesive solution of possibly colorless gum arabic is prepared and distributed by hand1 and by means of a fine hair-brush1 in smaller or larger dots1 as required1 over the upper side of the feather or along the edges1 and before the gum solution becomes dry1 sprinkled over with finely divided gold-leaf or silver-leaf4 ,the feather is then turned over1 given a few light taps with the hand to remove the loose dust of metal1 and vigorously shaken1 partly to prevent the fibres from sticking together1 partly to remove the remaining loosely adhering particles of metal4 ,the operation must be performed as rapidly as possible to prevent the gum solution from drying before the metallic dust is shaken off4 ,the smaller the gum-dots are made1 the quicker must the work be done1 but the less is the danger of the fibres being pasted together1 and the more elegant the appearance of the feather4 ,the dots or spangles are made of different shapes1 in little circles or squares1 and sometimes arranged so as to form angular designs1 according to taste and skill of the operator4 ,another very pretty1 scarcely more permanent1 but more frequently applied ornamentation of ostrich feathers1 is the following4 ,,frosting4 ,for this purpose the feathers are first dyed in a light or medium shade of any color1 the effect of frosting feathers of a dark color being rather unfavorable4 ,the feathers are then1 after drying1 covered on the upper side with a solution of clear gum arabic1 as for gilding1 but more closely1 or may even be entirely brushed over with the gum solution1 and are then1 before the gum dries1 sprinkled over with finely ground white glass1 or mica1 the latter giving the appearance of frosted silver4 ,the glass powder or mica powder is then quickly and vigorously shaken off1 to open the fibres and flues as much as possible1 while drying4 ,finally1 to complete the opening of the fibres1 the feathers are steamed at the under side1 and shaken in the air until open and dry4 ,great care is required in curling gilded or frosted feathers1 that the metal or glass powder is not rubbed off in passing the fibres of the vane over the curling-knife4 ,this operation being extremely difficult and dangerous1 the use of a curling-iron1 like that used by hair-dressers1 is preferable to that of the knife4 ,the iron is moderately heated1 so as not to singe the feathers2 then1 beginning at the lower end of the feather1 a part of the fibres on one side of the stem are taken by their ends between the shanks of the iron1 the latter closed and the fibres wound downwards around it1 the iron being carried on the under side of the feather towards the stem4 ,then first one side of the vane is successively curled from the quill up to the tip1 when the same operation is repeated upon the other half of the feather4 ,if1 in this manner1 the feather should be curled too strongly1 the fibres are taken between the shanks of the warm curling-iron at the stem and simply drawn through the iron4 ,numerous ostrich feather dyers and dressers use the curling-iron altogether1 instead of the knife2 the only difficulty for the beginner is to get the proper heat1 which1 however1 is soon learned4 ,very pretty effects are also obtained by dyeing the feathers a light shade of color1 drying1 gumming and sprinkling them with either powdered black glass or jet4 ,,renovating ,,feathers4 ,white ostrich feathers which1 by long exposure to the show-window1 or by lying in store for a protracted time1 have lost their whiteness and turned yellow1 and dyed feathers which1 from the same causes1 have become dirty1 pale and discolored1 can be restored to their former beauty by washing1 respectively redyeing1 as follows3 ,i4 ,a washing process1 which is ordinarily only applied to white feathers which have become yellow1 is as follows3 ,prepare a bath of two gallons of water at #ade;,f41 to which add half a gallon of liquid ammonia 7spirits of sal ammoniac1 ammonia water72 enter the feathers1 work them once well through with the hands1 and lay them down in the bath over night4 ,on the following day take them up1 wash them once through a soap-bath at #ade;,f41 pass them again through the first ammoniacal bath1 and rinse well and let them drain4 ,then prepare a bath of cold water1 to which add so much of a clear solution of methyl violet #f ,b41 that a white china plate held about a foot below the surface of the water1 appears with a faint bluish tint1 or such a blue tone as is desired2 and add to the bath so much sulphurous acid1 that it gives the liquid a well defined odor4 ,when the sulphurous acid mixes with the tinted liquid1 the violet color of the latter disappears and changes to a greenish tint1 which1 however1 turns again to blue upon the feathers when they are afterwards exposed to the action of the air4 ,the feathers are then passed1 singly1 if possible1 through the blue-bath1 well drained1 centrifugated or whizzed1 starched and dried as usual4 ,colored feathers which have lost their freshness1 and are to be redyed1 are simply washed clean with soap and rinsed1 or they are stripped of their color1 as much as possible1 with soap and oxalic acid1 or bleached with peroxyd of hydrogen1 as described in the beginning2 whereupon they are dyed and treated like bleached new feathers1 always taking into consideration1 however1 what of the old color may remain upon the feathers1 may be utilizable as a bottom for the new color1 or even as a component of it1 for instance1 in the case of many modes and several browns4 ,,ii4 ,another method of renovating ostrich feathers presents the advantages that it is executed without the application of heat1 that it is a simple cleaning process which attacks no color1 and that it leaves the curling of the feathers intact1 which is unavoidably taken out of them by washing with warm water and soap1 or any other alkaline detergent substance4 ,it is1 therefore1 only applied to feathers which have lost their purity of color by exposure1 and whose curling is to be preserved1 or is worthy of preserving4 ,it is1 in part1 the same process which is known as dry washing among scourers and dyers of garments1 and can be applied to feathers of any color and shade1 white and even black1 without exception4 ,for this operation fill a basin or small wooden hand-tub with benzene1 add a handful or two of potato flour 7sifted potato starch71 enter the feathers and rub them well through with the starch until clean2 then squeeze then out by hand and press between muslin1 finally whiz or shake them in the air until dry4 ,this process is partly chemical1 in so far as the benzene loosens the dust and other impurities which have settled upon the feathers1 partly mechanical1 as the numerous fine particles of the potato starch1 which do not dissolve in benzene as soap does in water1 rub these impurities off from the feather4 ,by the combined action of the benzene and starch1 and the friction applied1 the feathers are not only cleaned1 but the flues completely opened1 so that the feather thus treated looks perfectly like new4 ,a remarkable feature of this process is that the starch carries nearly all the impurities down with itself to the bottom of the wash-basin1 and becomes soiled1 while the benzene takes up every little of them1 and can1 therefore1 after settling1 be poured off from the starch sediment1 and can be used several times before it needs to be purified or eventually becomes unfit for use4 ,in using benzene1 which is a highly combustible substance1 the utmost precaution must be observed that no open flame or fire be in the work-room1 neither open lamps nor a fire in the stove burning4 ,even doors leading to adjoining rooms1 where lights or fires are burning1 ought to be kept closed while working with benzene1 because the benzene vapors1 which may be carried to the flame by a draft of air1 would inevitably ignite and cause an explosion and fire4 ,occurrences of this kind have been not unfrequently observed4 ,feathers which have been cleaned by this process1 as well as new feathers1 may be dyed by the following process4 ,,dyeing ,,in ,,the ,,cold ,,way4 ,this process is a real dyeing process1 as well as a renovating process1 both1 however1 to a limited extent1 inasmuch as it can be applied only to white feathers or to such as are dyed with light and medium shades of certain colors which are to be freshened up2 but it does not answer for dark colors4 ,it is1 however1 extremely simple and easy to execute2 besides1 almost instantaneous1 and therefore of great utility where rapid work is required1 because it leaves the feathers perfectly in shape1 like the benzene washing process1 and does not affect the curling of the feather1 if there is such4 ,old feathers which were already dyed cream1 rose1 salmon1 light blue1 light gray1 light green1 sea green1 golden yellow1 heliotrope or beige1 can be redyed in the same colors1 but must previously be washed with benzene2 new white feathers do not require such washing4 ,for this method of dyeing1 aniline dyestuffs soluble in alcohol are used1 viz43 for ,cream1 ,curcumine or ,aniline ,orange1 ,rose1 ,eosine or ,ponceau1 ,salmon1 ,curcumine and ,eosine1 ,light ,blue1 ,water ,blue and ,methylene ,blue1 ,gray1 ,nigrosine1 ,sea-green1 ,malachite ,green1 ,golden ,yellow1 ,orange and ,fast ,brown1 ,heliotrope1 ,methyl violet #f ,b41 ,beige1 ,methylene ,blue1 ,curcumine and ,fast ,brown1 mixed according to tone and shade4 ,operate as follows3 ,fill a white basin with a sufficient quantity of alcohol to completely wet the feathers in it2 add1 according to shade1 a smaller or greater quantity of the clear alcoholic solution of the required dyestuff1 or mixture of dyestuffs1 pass the feathers singly1 without previously wetting them1 three or four times through the alcohol bath2 then press them out between clean muslin1 put a few handfuls of sifted potato starch upon a clean sheet of paper1 and rub the feathers with it until thoroughly dry2 finally1 shake out the starch4 ,,recapitulation ,,of ,,general ,,rules4 ,at all times have the feathers1 which are to be dyed1 scoured well1 that is1 washed clean from all externally adhering impurities1 fat1 etc42 naturally colored feathers bleached for all light and medium shades to be dyed upon them1 and rinsed perfectly clean from the scouring or bleaching bath1 first in two or three warm waters and then in cold water4 ,on taking the feathers from any bath1 always squeeze the liquid out first by drawing the feathers through the hand closed upon them1 then by placing them straight between several laps of clean dry muslin and repeatedly passing the hand with quite a smart pressure over it4 ,never transfer the feathers1 in any case1 from one bath to another in a wet1 but in a moist condition1 or nearly dry4 ,never allow the feathers to become dry in the course of operations4 ,if it is necessary to interrupt work1 or to put feathers to one side for further treatment1 dry them properly by first passing them through a bath of raw starch1 in order to have the flues at all times as well opened as possible4 ,in no case let the temperature of a bath1 in which feathers are treated1 rise to actual boiling1 although for some dyestuffs a temperature near the boiling point is required to make them dye up1 to become level or to fix them4 ,in every instance1 where an acid or acid salt is employed1 either in a separate mordanting or fixing bath1 or as a component of the dyebath1 rinse well before drying4 ,when sulphuric acid is used in the composition of a bath1 add only so much of it as to give the water a very slight1 scarcely perceptible acid taste4 ,although some artificial dyestuffs dye up without an addition of acid to the dye bath 7basic dyestuffs71 the addition of sulphuric acid1 in a very small quantity1 to the dye-bath is advantageous1 rendering the colors brighter and also faster4 ,when bisulphate of soda is employed1 it is not necessary to also add sulphuric acid to the dye-bath2 if it is added1 however1 it must only be in a very small quantity2 careful rinsing in several warm and cold waters after dyeing is required4 ,when alum alone is used without any other addition as mordant1 sulphuric acid may be added1 but only in the proportion of one tenth or1 at the most1 up to one fifth of the weight of alum1 and careful rinsing in several warm and cold waters is the more indispensably required the more acid has been employed4 ,all solutions of dyestuffs1 as well as of chemicals1 ought to be carefully filtered1 and decoctions of woods1 etc41 strained before adding them to the bath2 never add dyestuffs1 drugs or chemicals in substance to any bath1 in order to prevent solid particles from settling upon the feathers4 ,never add all the dyestuff probably required or prescribed by a recipe to the dye-bath at one time1 but in several small quantities1 each time after taking up the feathers1 stir the bath after making the addition1 re-enter the feathers and watch the progress of the dyeing carefully2 when approaching the desired shade1 add the dyestuff very cautiously1 by drops if necessary1 particularly with mixed colors1 such as modes4 ,sample in proper time1 and take not a whole feather for it1 but pull off two or three fibres from the lower part of a feather1 dry them quickly by squeezing between dry muslin1 match1 correct the bath and finish dyeing4 ,while drying keep the feathers as much as possible in constant motion1 shake and beat them4 ,do not interrupt operations1 if it can be avoided1 but do the work rapidly and continuously1 without pausing4 ,keep every utensil scrupulously clean4 ,,the ,,end4 ,,contents4 ,,page4 ,preface i ,growth of the ,ostrich ,feather ,trade1 etc4 #a ,the ,bird1 ,its ,plumage and ,habits #c ,sketch of ,dyestuffs1 etc4 #e ,logwood #e ,turmeric #g ,bichromate of ,potash #g ,archil #h ,safranine #aj ,oxalic ,acid #aa ,indigo ,blue #aa ,sulphuric ,acid #ab ,copperas #ac ,bismarck ,brown #ad ,concentrated ,cotton ,blue #ad ,roceline #ae ,recipes for ,dyeing #af ,hints about the ,dye-house #he ,miscellaneous ,information #hh ,washing ,raw ,stock #ia ,shading #id ,paring1 ,steaming and ,curling #ie ,note of the ,publisher #ii ,,index ,,to ,,recipes4 ,b4 ,,page4 ,,beige #fb ,,black #ec ,,bleaching ,,light ,,colors ,,white #ah ,,bleaching ,,natural ,,grays ,,or ,,blacks ,,white #hb ,,blue1 ,,army #ei ,,blue1 ,,electric #fe ,,blue1 ,,gendarme #eg ,,blue1 ,,light #ba ,,blue1 ,,medium #fg ,,blue1 ,,navy #ca ,,bronze #gd ,,brown1 ,,bismarck #bh ,,brown1 ,,medium #ff ,,brown1 ,,olive #ha ,,brown1 ,,seal #bi ,c4 ,,cardinal #cc ,,chocolate #ge ,,coffee #gi ,,corn #fd ,,cream #be ,d4 ,,drab1 ,,felt #df ,,drab1 ,,plain #gh ,e4 ,,ecru #bc ,g4 ,,garnet #dj ,,gray1 ,,silver #bf ,,green1 ,,bottle #dc ,,green1 ,,medium #fa ,,green1 ,,pea #hj ,l4 ,,lavender #ch ,,lemon #eb ,,lilac #ef ,m4 ,,magenta #fi ,,maroon #ea ,,moss #gf ,o4 ,,old-,,gold #ci ,,olive #cf ,,orange #dh ,p4 ,,pink1 ,,light #bj ,,plum #ce ,,purple #fj ,s4 ,,salmon #ga ,,scarlet #ej ,,sea-,,foam #gj ,,slate #dg ,,steel #de ,,stone #gc ,,strawberry1 ,,crushed #cd ,t4 ,,terra ,,cotta #db ,,trileul #eh ,w4 ,,white #af ,,index ,,to ,,samples4 ,b4 ,,page4 ,,beige #cd;a ,,black #gj;a ,,blue1 ,,army #df;a ,,blue1 ,,electric #gj;a ,,blue1 ,,gendarme #dj;a ,,blue1 ,,light #bf;a ,,blue1 ,,medium #bd;a ,,blue1 ,,navy #fd;a ,,bronze #fd;a ,,brown1 ,,bismarck #gf;a ,,brown1 ,,medium #hb;a ,,brown1 ,,olive #eb;a ,,brown1 ,,seal #gf;a ,c4 ,,cardinal #hb;a ,,chocolate #cd;a ,,coffee #eb;a ,,corn #cd;a ,,cream #bf;a ,d4 ,,drab1 ,,felt #dj;a ,,drab1 ,,plain #eh;a ,e4 ,,ecru #cj;a ,g4 ,,garnet #dj;a ,,gray1 ,,silver #cj;a ,,green1 ,,bottle #eb;a ,,green1 ,,medium #hb;a ,,green1 ,,pea #fd;a ,l4 ,,lavender #bf;a ,,lemon #bj;a ,,lilac #bj;a ,m4 ,,magenta #fd;a ,,maroon #df;a ,,moss #gj;a ,o4 ,,old-,,gold #hb;a ,,olive #eh;a ,,orange #gf;a ,p4 ,,pink1 ,,light #bj;a ,,plum #eh;a ,,purple #df;a ,s4 ,,salmon #bf;a ,,scarlet #gj;a ,,sea-,,foam #cj;a ,,slate #dj;a ,,steel #df;a ,,stone #eb;a ,,strawberry1 ,,crushed #gf;a ,t4 ,,terra ,,cotta #eh;a ,,trileul #cj;a ,w4 ,,white #bj;a ,,contents ,,of ,,appendix4 ,,page4 ,general ,remarks #ajc ,utensils #ajg ,preparation of ,feathers #ajg ,cleaning1 ,bleaching1 etc4 #aji ,drying or ,starching #aaa ,bleaching or ,decolorizing ,natural ,grays #aab ,peroxyd of ,hydrogen #aad ,light ,blue #aae ,navy ,blue #aag ,gendarme ,blue #aai ,plum or ,prune #aai ,light ,yellow #aba ,medium ,yellow #aba ,dark ,yellow #abb ,golden ,yellow #abc ,old-,gold #abd ,gray #abe ,pearl ,gray #abf ,silver ,gray #abf ,brown #abg ,light ,brown #abi ,rust ,brown #acj ,red ,brown #acj ,coffee ,brown #aca ,puce #acb ,fawn #acc ,chestnut ,brown #acc ,havanna #acd ,mushroom #ace ,light ,drab #acf ,beige #acg ,modes #ach ,reseda #adj ,ordinary ,green #ada ,light ,green #adb ,moss ,green #adc ,bog ,green #adc ,grass ,green #add ,rose #adf ,red #adg ,fast ,alizarine ,red #adg ,scarlet #adh ,ponceau #aej ,bordeaux #aea ,red ,garnet #aeb ,brown ,garnet #aeb ,ruby #aec ,salmon #aec ,amaranth #aed ,bronze #aee ,olive #aef ,violet #aeh ,heliotrope and ,lilac #aei ,cream #afj ,white and ,black #afa ,white #afd ,black #aff ,contrasts1 ,shadings1 etc4 #agc ,edging or ,borders #agf ,gilding and ,silvering #agh ,frosting #ahj ,renovating ,feathers #ahb ,dyeing in the ,cold ,way #ahf ,recapitulation of ,general ,rules #ahg ,,specialties ,,for ,,feather ,,and ,,silk ,,dyers ,,ph4 ,h4 ,,karcher ,,co41 #ee ,,cedar ,,st41 ,,new ,,york1 ,sole ,agent for ,,gilliard1 ,p4 ,,monnet and ,,cartier',s ,,french ,,aniline ,,dyes ,,importers ,,of ,,dyestuffs1 ,,extracts1 ,,chemicals1 c4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,established #ahfa ,,henry ,a4 ,,gould ,,co4 ,,importers ,,and ,,jobbers ,,of ,indigo1 ,cutch1 ,dyewoods4 ,,general ,,agents ,celebrated ,berlin ,brand ,non-,poisonous ,aniline ,colors1 including ,substantive ,dyes1 and many varieties ,soloble in ,oils1 c4 ,,manufactured ,,by ,actien ,gesellschaft fur ,anilin-,fabrikation1 ,,berlin1 ,,germany4 #ag #ai ,pearl ,street1 ,boston4 #gh ,william ,street1 ,new ,york4 #ga ,north ,front ,street1 ,philadelphia4 99 99 99 99 99 ,a4 ,,klipstein1 #eb ,cedar ,street1 ,,new ,,york4 ,,aniline ,,colors1 ,and all ,dyestuffs and ,chemicals used in ,feather ,dyeing4 #acd ,milk ,st41 ,boston4 ,,branch ,,offices3 #abj ,arch ,st41 ,philadelphia4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,wm4 ,j4 ,,matheson ,,co41 #bj ,cedar ,street1 ,new ,york4 #adg ,milk ,st41 ,boston4 ,,branch ,,houses3 #ah ,n4 ,front ,st41 ,philadelphia4 #bb ,s4 ,water ,street1 ,providence1 ,r4 ,i4 ,,importers ,,of ,,and ,,dealers ,,in ,coal ,tar ,colors and ,dyestuffs ,,manufacturers ,,of ,dyewood1 ,sumac and ,indigo ,extracts1 and ,carmines4 99 99 99 99 99 ,american ,ultramarine and ,globe ,anilin ,works ,,heller ,,merz1 ,,proprietors1 #ee ,maiden ,lane1 ,new ,york4 ,p4,o4 ,box #cejh4 ,rose ,bengal1 ,erythrosine1 ,fuchsine1 ,phloxine1 ,eosine1 ,violet1 of ,superior ,quality4 99 99 99 99 99 ,john ,m4 ,sharpless ,co4 ,,manufacturers ,,of ,,solid ,,and ,,paste ,,extracts ,,of ,,dyewoods ,,cut ,,and ,,bolted ,,dyewoods ,,importers ,,of ,cutch1 ,indigo1 ,chemicals1 c4 ,office3 #bj #bb ,n4 ,front ,st41 ,philadelphia1 ,pa4 99 99 99 99 99 ,r4 ,,holliday',s ,,sons1 #abh ,,milk ,,st41 ,,boston4 ,,mass4 #de ,n4 ,,front ,,st41 ,,philadelphia4 ,,principal ,,office3 #g ,,platt ,,st41 ,,new ,,york4 ,,manufacturers ,,of ,,all ,,aniline ,,colors1 ,,archil1 ,,extract ,,of ,,indigo1 c4 ,,patented ,,of ,,acid ,,magenta4 ,,works--,brooklyn1 ,n4 ,y42 ,huddersfield and ,wakefield1 ,england4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,schoellkopf1 ,,hartford ,,maclagan1 ,l't'd ,illustration #c ,cedar ,st41 #ajc ,milk ,st41 ,,new ,,york4 ,,boston4 #db ,n4 ,water ,st41 ,,philadelphia4 ,,sole ,,agents ,,for ,,schoellkopf ,,aniline ,,and ,,chemical ,,co4 ,,buffalo1 ,n4 ,y4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,textile ,,colorist ,a ,monthly ,journal ,,devoted ,,to ,,practical ,,dyeing1 ,,bleaching1 ,,printing ,,and ,,finishing1 ,,dyes1 ,,dyestuffs1 ,,and ,,chemicals ,,as ,,applied ,,to ,,dyeing1 ,textile ,machinery1 ,carding1 ,spinning1 ,weaving1 ,,designing ,,and ,,improved ,,processes ,,in ,,textile ,,manufacturing4 ,,established1 ,,january1 #ahgi4 ,published on the #aeth of each month1 at #ejf ,,arch ,,street1 ,,philadelphia1 ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,corrected obvious typos and inconsistencies in punctuation3 p#cd;a4 ,,biege - ,,beige 7also in ,index and ,index to samples74 p#ed4 half a century age - half a century ago4 terra-cotta 7,index7 - terra cotta 7text74 triluel - trileul4 p#fe4 luke water - luke-warm water4 p#ajd4 certian - certain4 p#abb4 turmeric is boiling - turmeric in boiling4 p#abd4 analine - aniline4 p#aea4 ,lay down the feathers for four hours is a cold4 bath - ,lay down the feathers for four hours in a cold bath4 p#afb4 most energetic and and effectious - most energetic and effectious4 p#agc4 and hand them over - and hands them over4 p#ahg4 ,operate of follows - ,operate as follows4 p#ahh4 to put feathers one side - to put feathers to one side4 p#ahi4 composion - composition ,in the ,sample ,index1 the page for ,,blue1 ,,medium should be #cd;a not #bd;a4 ,some inconsistencies and oddities in spelling and hyphenation have been left as printed3 hand heat and hand-heat4 centrifugated 7in text7 and soloble 7in printed advertisement74 redyed1 re-dyed4 peroxyd and peroxide4 luke warm1 lukewarm and luke-warm4 p#aad4 ,the correct formula for hydrogen peroxide is ,h#b,o#b