,,?r\gh    ,,bosnia ,,& ,,h]zegov9a     
,,) ,a ,,pa9t ,,bru%4      ,,pr9t$ ,,&  
,,publi%$ ,,by    ,,william ,,dress] ,,&
 ,,sons1 ,,d>l+ton4      ,illu/ration3  
,a ,/reet 9 ,s>jevo1 ,bosnia4           
,?r\gh    ,bosnia & ,h]zegov9a    ,) a  
,pa9t ,bru%4        ,,by    ,,mrs4 ,e4  
,r4 ,,:itwell1      ,au?or ( 8,,spa9 ,,z
 ,,we ,,f\nd ,,x10 &          8,,?r\gh  
,,corsica ,,) ,a ,,pa9t ,,bru%40        
,,d>l+ton3    ,,william ,,dress] ,,&    
,,sons1      ,,london3    ,,simpk9      
,,m>%all1 ,,hamilton1 ,,k5t ,,& ,,co41  
,,ld4          ,preface4      ,! foll[+ 
sket*es & notes 7 orig9ally int5d$ z    
p]sonal  rem9isc5ces ( a v int]e/+ &    
enjoyable holiday sp5t 9 a  c\ntry      
some:at out ( ! beat5 track4 ,b *anges  
=eca/$ by  ! au?oress hav+ become actual
 fact1 & ! c\ntries describ$  assum+ a  
prom95t feature ( rec5t int]national    
conc]n1 x is  hop$ t ! production ( ?is 
little volume w prove ( su*  int]e/ z   
w>rants its publication beyond ! circle 
orig9ally  int5d$4      ,,! ,,fri>age1  

,,y>m-,,on-,,tees1        ,janu>y1      
#aiji4          ,li/ ( ,illu/rations4   
,,fac+ ,,page      ,a ,/reet 9 ,s>jevo  
,frontispiece      ,ev5+--,abbazia      
#d      ,aft] a ,/orm--,abbazia         
#h      ,! ,porta ,m>9a1 ,seb5ico       
#af      ,! ,ca!dral ,por*1 ,tra        
#bd      ,a ,/reet 9 ,ragusa            
#bh      ,mont5egro                     
#cb      ,cett9je                       
#cf      ,! ,m>ket ,place1 ,cett9je     
#ch      ,! ,fontana ,on(rio1 ,ragusa   
#dj      ,! ,old ,bridge1 ,mo/>         
#ej      ,! ,s\rce ( ! ,buna1 ne> ,mo/> 
#eh      ,a ,/reet 9 ,s>jevo            
#fj      ,turki% ,%ops1 ,s>jevo         
#fd      ,! ,m>ket ,place1 ,s>jevo      
#fh      ,jaice                         
#gb            ,?r\gh    ,,bosnia       
,,h]zegov9a    ) a ,pa9t ,bru%4         
,/irr+ times are ^! :5 ! :ole ( ,europe 
has to give its  op9ion1 & ,i may say   
decision1 z to :e!r ,au/ria may snap up 
,bosnia & ,h]zegov9a1 & ,bulg>ia may    
ass]t h] indep5d5ce &  /yle h] pr9cel+ a

 ,tz>1 :i* seems cr[+ r l\d &  sav\rs ( 
! bantam 9 ! p\ltry y>d6 ,h[ev]1 we %all
 see  :at happ5s 9 ! ne> future2        
mean:ile ,i am ?9k+ t a v  int]e/+ t\r  
,i made ?r\gh ^! prov9ces ) my pa9t     
bru%1  may be attractive to ^? :o take  
an int]e/ 9 o!r nations &  o!r c\ntries4
 ,sev]al books h already be5 writt5 on  
,dalmatia1  b ,i d n ?9k any h be5      
illu/rat$ by ! bru%1 & ,i h  se5 no     
books on ,bosnia & ,h]zegov9a1 or t     
b>r51 wild c\ntry  ,mont5egro1 ) its    
range aft] range ( rocky1 jagg$ m\nta9s4
    ,i h be5 twice 9 ,dalmatia1 ! fir/  
"t we sail$ on our ya*t  ,vanadis f     
,v5ice1 t\*+ at ,pola--a /ormy passage (
 eight  h\rs4 ,at ,pola itself !re 0 n  
mu* = me to see beyond a f9e  ,roman    
amphi!atre1 two gates & two temples4 ,x 
is ! c5tre ( !  ,au/rian naval base1 & 0
 bri/l+ ) ironclads2 our ,capta9  elect$
 to /eam calmly 9 among !m1 b we _h soon
 to make a  retreat1 pilot$ to ! o!r    
side ( ! h>b\r by "s ,jack ,t>s1  :o 7  
ea* pres5t$ ) a cig> = ! 8ent5te        

cordiale0 ( !  nations4    ,f ,pola we  
w5t on to ,abbazia1 :i* is an ,au/rian  
invalid wat]+  place &1 sad to say1 0   
full ( consumptives4 ,x is q a pretty   
place1 ) a ,cas9o1 public g>d5s1 & a    
wond]ful artificial walk1  a v]itable   
sun trap = miles by ! sea4 ,on our      
arrival we f\nd  ano!r ya*t moor$ to !  
only buoy--!re is no h>b\r1 s we _h to  
drop our an*or hop+ = a f9e night1 :i* x
 04    ,! next morn+ ,i w5t a%ore to    
sket*1 & ! re/ ( ! p>ty  w5t 9 ! laun*  
to ,fiume1 :i* _h no attraction = me4 ,a
 heavy  ?und]/orm t aft]noon made !     
/reets v wet1 b we bravely  /ruggl$ to a
 caf & li/5$ to ! ,hung>ian b&1 at !    
same  "t dr9k+ "s excell5t c(fee ) !    
milk nicely fro!d up 9  a jug1 & ea*    
p]son _h 8 own little tray4 ,! ya*t :i* 
_h  secur$ ! buoy ! ev5+ be=e1 _h tak5  
its dep>ture e>ly  9 ! morn+1 s we      
atta*$ ourselves to x1 & z ! ,capta9    
rem>k$ 8possession 0 n9e t5?s ( ! law10 
! o!r ya*t _h  ! privilege ( tak+ turn 9
 dropp+ h] an*or = ! night4    ,"s ( !  

peasant wom5 7 v picturesque 9 co/ume1 &
 wore a  k9d ( ballet skirt1 ,hessian   
boots1 & a r$ h&k]*ief ti$ r\nd  ! head 
& float+ at "o side4    ,?\gh z ,i said 
be=e1 ,i h twice be5 along ! ,dalmatian 
coa/1  ,i h n visit$ any ( ! mo/ int]e/+
 isl&s1 & my /ay at  ! v>i\s t[ns has   
be5 f> too %ort to please me1 b x c\ld  
n be avoid$1 ,i 0 at ! m]cy ( a ya*t1 & 
9 ord] to visit  ! pr9cipal t[ns 9 a    
c\ntry :i* possesses "o small railway   
connect+ two coa/ t[ns & "o inl& t[n1 x 
0 necess>y to  all[ myself to be :irl$  
along at ! pleasure ( o!rs1 :o want$  n 
to l+] bru% 9 h&4    ,illu/ration3      
,ev5+--,abbazia    ,illu/ration    ,!   
hi/ory ( ,dalmatia dates1 ,i ?9k1 f !   
ye> #ahj ,b4,c41 :5  ! tribe f :i* x    
takes its "n decl>$ _! indep5d5ce  f    
,g5tius1 ,k+ ( ,illyria1 & e/abli%$ a   
republic4 ,9 #aef  ,b4,c4 ! ,dalmatians 
7 attack$ by ! ,romans & compell$ to pay
  tribute1 b x 0 n till ! reign (       
,augu/us t _! c\ntry  became a ,roman   
prov9ce4 ,"u ,tib]ius1 ,dalmatia 0      

?or\ghly  ,romanis$1 x gave to ! _w !   
,emp]or ,diocletian1 :o ev5tually       
retir$ to ,salona1 ! new ,dalmatian     
capital1 :]e are /ill to be  f\nd !     
rema9s ( 8 magnific5ce4 ,x !n fell into 
sev]al  successive h&s1 & 9 ! sev5?     
c5tury x receiv$ ! dom9ant  elem5t ( its
 pres5t population by ! immigration ( ! 
,slavs  invit$ by ,h]aclius4    ,9 ! n9?
 c5tury ! ,croatian influ5ce 0 high1 &  
,croatian  pr9ces 7 recognis$ z k+s (   
,dalmatia4 ,9 ! t5? c5tury  ,v5ice      
ext5d$ h] p[]1 :i* is /ill visible 9 !  
_m beautiful  build+s se5 all along ?is 
coa/4 ,ab\t ! ye> #ajah ! ,doge  took ! 
title ( ,duke ( ,dalmatia4 ,v5ice &     
,croatia /ruggl$ h>d  = supremacy dur+ !
 elev5? c5tury1 & 9 #ajia ! ,hung>ians  
ou/$ ! ,croatians4 ,! m>itime cities (  
,z>a1 ,tra1 ,spalato &  ,ragusa1 _h ea* 
_! sep>ate hi/ory1 & atta9$ mu*         
prosp]ity  by comm]ce & indu/ry4 ,^!    
t[ns sid$ ) ,v5ice & 7 at  times "u h]  
control1 until ! treatm5t by t great    
republic  disgu/$ !m & !y welcom$ ,l\is 

( ,hung>y4 ,v5etian au?ority  01 h[ev]1 
once m ass]t$1 b 9 #agig1 ,dalmatia     
became "p (  ! ,au/rian dom9ions to :i* 
%e has belong$ ev] s9ce1 ) !  exception 
( a ,napoleonic p]iod f #ahje-ahad4 ,!  
,au/rians 7 n  popul>1 ! feel+ ( !      
c\ntry be+ extremely ho/ile1 & 9  #ahfi 
an insurrection 0 put d[n by =ce ( arms4
    ,wat] 9 ,dalmatia is sc>ce1 & ! only
 riv]s are ! ,krka & !  ,cett9a4        
,outside ! t[ns is v little vegetation2 
b>ley1 :eat1  maize1 oats1 rye1 millet1 
beetroot1 hemp & potatoes are all gr[n  
some:]e2 coa/+ = miles & miles no?+ is  
se5 b p9ky  grey rock1 & n[ & !n a bu%1 
?\gh z y g fur!r s\?  vegetation becomes
 evid5t & v9es are gr[n1 ! grapes       
produc+ a  full1 r$ w9e :i* is mu*      
export$ to ,bordeaux2 & olives1 ! oil  (
 :i* is also export$4    ,ab\t          
eighty-n9e p] c5t ( ! natives belong to 
! ,s]vian race  & speak a ,slavonic     
dialect1 b !re are a good _m ,italians2 
mo/  ( ! natives und]/& ,italian ,i     
f\nd4 ,! pr9cipal religion is  ,roman   

,ca?olic1 !re are also ^? :o foll[ !    
,greek ,*ur*4 ,!  ,roman ,ca?olic       
,ar*bi%op has 8 seat at ,z>a1 &         
,spalato1 ,seb5ico1  ,les9a & ,catt>o   
are ,bi%oprics4 ,donkeys & goats ab\nd1 
& !re  are "s %eep4 ,! peasant gr9ds 8  
corn & weaves 8 clo!s at  home4    ,lace
 mak+ is a great indu/ry among/         
,dalmatian wom51 & !re is  a special    
s*ool at ,spalato :]e ! mo/ beautiful   
patt]ns tak5  f ! ,*ur*es are copi$4    
,sponges also are f\nd ne> ,seb5ico4    
,an*ovies & tunny fi% are caught 9 l>ge 
quantities & _m o!r  k9ds ( fi%4    ,z>a
 we rea*$ on ,april #ad?1 b "h on ?is   
our fir/ visit1 we  discov]$ no h>b\r1  
?\gh next "t we f\nd ! h>b\r 0 q  on !  
o!r side ( ! t[n4 ,z we did n reli% !   
idea ( toss+  ab\t all night on ! op5   
sea1 we decid$ only to /ay a v %ort  "t 
j to visit ! t[n & !n pu% on to ,z>a    
,vec*ia = !  night4    ,illu/ration3    
,aft] a ,/orm--,abbazia4    ,illu/ration
    ,! t[n looks v new f ! sea1 & appe>s
 to be compos$ (  l>ge :ite mod]n       

build+s ) r$ ro(s1 "o hotel1 8,!        
,bri/ol10  look$ mo/ impos+ & new1 b y  
mu/ p5etrate beh9d all  ?is1 :]e y w f9d
 ! old t[n ( ,z>a ) its n>r[  /reets1 ) 
_m ,roman & ,v5etian rema9s1 ( ! =m] two
 l>ge  ,cor9?ian columns /ill /&1 "o !y 
say is :]e x 0 fir/  erect$4 ,a plaque (
 /one or m>ble let into a wall1 on :i* a
 mo/  graceful figure ( a danc+ girl 0  
c>v$1 & !re 0 also q  a museum ( /atues 
& o!r relics4 ,! ,duomo1 ) its beautiful
  faade1 is di/9ctly ,v5etian1 & ! ,lion
 ( ,/4 ,m>c wat*es at !  gates ( ! t[n4 
,z>a1 n[1 is specially celebrat$ = its  
m>es*9o1 :]e are two  manufacturies4    
,our l>ge p>ty l&+ caus$ q a flutt]     
among/ ! inhabitants1  "s ( :om 7 mo/   
picturesque1 ! wom5 ) bright r$ &  yell[
 aprons1 :ite head %awls embroid]$ 9 _m 
col\rs1 blue  skirts & r$ /ock+s4 ,"s ( 
! m5 9 blue tr\s]s1 all  ruck$ up ! leg1
 r$1 gold-embroid]$ jackets 7 ?r[n ov]  
"o  %\ld]1 sa%es 7 gleam+ ) knives1 c41 
tuck$ 91 & a  curi\s t9y r$ cap ) a     
black tassel cr[n$ all4 ,?is cap looks  

ridicul\sly small p]*$ on ! top ( !     
head4    ,! c\ntry "h is b>e s&y rock1 )
 a few %rubs dott$ ab\t1  v b>r5 all    
along ! %ore1 & on a dull day w\ld look 
v  dre>y no d\bt1 b ) bright sun%9e !   
sea is lovely1 & !  range ( sn[-capp$   
m\nta9s beh9d make a *>m+ backgr\nd4 ,we
  did n l& at ,z>a ,vec*ia1 & 7 (f at   
sunrise to ,seb5ico4    ,a lovely little
 spot is ,seb5ico1 at ! foot ( ^? curi\s
 grey  b>r5 hills4 ,we l&$1 & pass$     
?r\gh a qua9t doorway1 )  picturesque   
figures go+ to & fro1 !n w5t up a few   
/eps to  n>r[ /reets--v n>r[ inde$1 b   
clean1 ) _m subjects =  an arti/1 b     
alas6 no "t = me--only an h\r or two1 & 
:at is  t6 ,we w&]$ ab\t ! /reets & _m  
appeals 7 made z to  :y ,i did n pa9t   
?is & t--! que/ion]s q =gett+           
ar*itectural subjects _c be done 9 a    
m9ute1 l ! snap%ot (  a cam]a6 ,aft]    
gaz+ at _m fasc9at+ bits1 ,i decid$ to  
attempt  an old c>v$ door 9 a n>r[      
/reet1 & =?) began1 to be  di/ract$ v   
%ortly by two fun]als pass+ & re-pass+1 

!  m\rn]s c>ry+ ea* a gutt]+ c&le held  
at any angle & walk+  ?ree abrea/ 9 !   
/reet five feet wide4 ,my easel 0 once  
swept  away by a boy1 :o1 l mo/ boys1   
did n look :]e he 0 go+1  luckily no    
damage 0 done & ,i settl$ to "w aga91 to
 be ?ree  times di/urb$1 ,i hav+ to     
flatt5 myself aga9/ ! wall to let !     
m\rn]s pass4 ,i work$ h>d till dusk1 !n 
return$ to ! ya*t4    ,i ?\ght x a great
 pity we c\ld n /ay a few days at       
,seb5ico1 b  on we ru%$1 & ,i mu/ g too 
?is "t4 ,i long$ to /ay & put  all ,i   
saw on pap]1 ( all ?is beautiful curi\s 
sc5]y1 & at "s  future date1 ,i hop$ to 
be able to dawdle along ?is coa/ at my  
own  sweet w4    ,"o ( our p>ty b\ght a 
mo/ curi\s knife f a v h&some  native1  
:o %[$ ! pur*as] its v>i\s uses--! knife
 0 us$ to  eat )1 & %ave )1 c41 c41 !   
d\ble prong$ /iletto1 :i*  occupi$ !    
same %ea?1 0 to dig into an enemy4 ,?is 
0 ab\t a  foot long4 ,^! ! natives c>ry 
tuck$ into _! belts4    ,! ,ca!dral is v
 f9e1 ,old ,v5etian1 & _h _m fasc9at+   

corn]s = ! arti/4    ,aft] lun* we w5t  
up a s]p5t9e gorge1 s n>r[1 t e mom5t  x
 seem$ to come to an end4 ,! sides 7    
p9ky-grey hills1 b>r5  except = a few   
%rubs1 ! :ole col\r+ 0 mo/ curi\s1 ! sea
  bright blue-gre51 contra/+ ) ! rocky  
sides4 ,a special pilot  came on bo>d = 
?is cruise1 & he ne>ly ran u into "s    
rocks1  n calculat+ h[ mu* room we took 
to turn ! corn]s4 ,:5 we  arriv$ at !   
fur!/ limit t ! ya*t c\ld g1 we took to 
!  laun*1 & approa*$ ! ,falls ( ,krka1  
:]e ! wat] comes d[n  9 ti]s1 v f9e4 ,"h
 electric light is be+ made4 ,we walk$  
up  to a height = a view look+ back1 :i*
 0 mo/ extraord9>y1 !  p9ky-grey hills1 
) "o long /rip ( w9d+ em]ald gre5 wat]  
betwe54    ,my second visit to ,seb5ico 
0 "u m fav\rable circum/ances1  z ,i    
decid$ to leave ! ya*t & put up at !    
,hotel ,krka ) my  c\ri]4    ,la1 ,la6 !
 cold on ?is my second visit1 b *>m$ am 
,i to be "h  once m at ?is mo/ fasc9at+ 
little place1 ,seb5ico1 ?is "t  to /ay a
 few days1 b oh6 ! cold66 ,i h nev] felt

 any?+ l  x 9 ,engl&1 ! nor?-ea/ w9d1 ! 
,bora 7! w9d ( ! dead7  is bl[+4 ,i     
imag9e x comes (f ! /eppes ( ,russia1 f 
its  int5se pi]c+ coldness4 ,! sun is   
nice & w>m1 if y c get  out ( ! w9d :i* 
rises v decid$ly e aft]noon4 ,i l&$  f !
 ya*t 9 ! morn+1 escort$ by my guide4   
,an elaborate  programme 0 made out1 & x
 0 int5d$ we %\ld travel ?r\gh          
,h]zegov9a & ,bosnia1 visit+ ,jajce1    
,bajnaluka1 ,bihac 7pron\nc$  ,beehat*71
 ,novi1 & ,plitvice1 :]e are wond]ful   
lakes & cascades  9 cont9uation f "o to 
! o!r4 ,"p ( ! j\rney we c>ri$  out1 b n
 all1 z w be se5 lat] on4    ,at        
,seb5ico1 !y talk ,italian & ,slav2     
,italian made me q happy z  x enabl$ me 
to conv]se ) ! natives4 ,! national     
co/umes "h  are mo/ fasc9at+1 lovely    
brilliant col\r+ mix$ 9 ! wom5's        
head-ge> & %awls1 & "s ( ! contad9e t   
come 91 )  d>k blue dresses /rip$ ) r$1 
gre5 & orange1 & embroid]ies  ( e hue1  
are mo/ /rik+4 ,! m51 too1 dress v      
sm>tly1 &  f9i% (f _! co/umes ) v l>ge  

silv] buttons4    ,i took a room at !   
,hotel ,krka2 ! rooms are q nice1 b !   
,re/aurant r dirty4 ,! l&lady want$ to  
ask me f\rte5 krones  z p5sion--r a lot 
= ?is out ( ! way place1 b z ,i came  (f
 a ya*t1 ,i am1 no d\bt1 expect$ to pay 
accord+ly2 h[ev]1 ,i  decid$ to take my 
room1 & !n h my meals  la c>te1 & by ?is
  means ,i exactly halv$ ! p5sion t]ms4 
,my fir/ meal 0 compos$  ( s\p1 veal1   
salad & *eese4 ,i _h n int5d$ to h s\p1 
z  ,i ord]$ spagetti1 :i* ,i naturally  
?\ght w\ld be mac>oni &  tomato sauce1 &
 0 disgu/$ to f9d x ! "n ( a s\p4 ,w9e  
0 giv5 free1 & all ! o!r cu/om]s seem$  
to dr9k x1 b ,i  f\nd x horribly bitt]1 
& to take (f ! ta/e ,i all[$ myself a   
m>es*9o--! only "p ( my lun* ,i enjoy$6 
,at night ,i _h mac>oni  9 pieces       
?ree-qu>t]s ( a y>d long1 ^! ,i f\nd mo/
 difficult  to negotiate1 z :5 ,i twirl$
 x r\nd my =k1 & 0 ab\t to put  x 9 my  
m\?1 ! :ole ?+ flew (f l a spr+4 ,i ?9k 
x took  me tw5ty m9utes to tackle ?is   
di%4    ,illu/ration3 ,! ,porta ,m>9a1  

,seb5ico4    ,illu/ration    ,! /reets  
"h are v qua9t1 z ! t[n is built on !   
hill  side1 !re are a great _m /eps4 ,at
 ! entrance to ! t[n1 ne>  ! ,quay1 is a
 beautiful gateway :i* ,i tri$ to draw1 
b ! int5se  cold & w9d soon s5t me away4
 ,! ,ca!dral has f9e doors ea/ &  nor?4 
,my guide & ,i w&]$ ab\t ! t[n look+ =  
pa9table  spots ( :i* !re are _m1 we w5t
 into ! g>d5s :]e is a  /atue to        
,tommaseo 7! au?or71 & 9 a f\nta9 ,i saw
 a fat goldfi%  :o seem$ to look at me  
out ( ! corn] ( 8 eye1 9 surprise  at a 
/rang]4 ,!re are _m rema9s ( old        
,v5etian days1 9 old  doorways & on     
beautiful c>v+s1 & ,i came across a f9e 
lion (  ,/4 ,m>k let into ! wall ( a    
build+3 v old columns1 ,roman1  are us$ 
z corn] /ones to _m ( ! h\ses4 ,! /reets
 are v  n>r[ & ! h\ses high4 ,may "h    
w\ld be a *>m+ mon?1 b !  end ( ,m>* is 
f> too e>ly4 ,my guide & ,i sat 9 !     
g>d5s =  a:ile 9 ! sun1 b ! w9d s5t u   
indoors1 x rose s high &  ! du/ blew 9  
cl\ds4    ,i told my guide to come e>ly 

next morn+ if x 0 f9e & w>m]1  b ! pi]c+
 w9d /ill prevail$1 s we wait$ till n9e1
 & ,i  drew ! pretty view f my w9d[4 ,i 
0 long+ to draw ! gate  :i* ,i _h kept 9
 view f my e>li] trip d[n ?is coa/ & =  
:i* p>ticul> reason ,i came to ,seb5ico1
 h[ev] we _h no luck1  & aga9 ,i c\ld d 
no?+ b w&] 9 ! /reets4 ,i saw "s        
wond]ful ,ea/] (f]+s1 *ick5s made ( a   
sort ( yell[ bread1  ) two r$ pa/e eggs 
repos+ 9 _! brea/s1 "o cock's fea!r  9 !
 tail & ano!r 9 ! head4    ,i took a few
 photographs ( ! fruit m>ket1 b !       
non-picturesque  p 7 v tiresome1 com+   
imm$iately 9 front ( my cam]a  at ! mo/ 
critical mom5t4 ,"o man's wai/coat 0    
cov]$ )  embroid]y & masses ( silv]     
buttons 9 clu/]s d[n ! front &  o!rs at 
! sides2 !y 7 v h&some buttons1 l>ge1   
r\nd1 &  filagre$1 & o!rs 7 flat4 ,^? ,i
 h on my coat 7 a s\rce  ( great int]e/1
 & z ! natives talk ,italian1 !y 7 a    
subject  ( mu* conv]sation betwe5 !m &  
myself4    ,! bread m>ket is v qua9t1   
r[s & r[s ( long loaves (  bread1 :i* my

 guide says is sold v *eap to ! poor p4 
,!  vegetable m>ket is close to ! bread 
m>ket1 b vegetables are few  j n[2 :]e  
any?+ gre5 came f ,i 0 at a loss to "k1 
z a  fre% blade ( grass ev5 0 n[h]e to  
be se51 all is b>e rock &  ?or\ghly     
w9t]ly 9 appe>ance4    ,on ! second day 
,i salli$ =? to pa9t my gate at #ab-cj1 
s z to  sit 9 ! sun & avoid ! cr[d (    
natives :o _h gone to _!  mid-day meal1 
& luckily did n seem 9 any hurry to come
 out aft]  x4 ,on acc\nt ( ! cold ,i    
left e>ly next day1 in/ead ( by !  ev5+ 
tra94 ,!re are only two tra9s1 s ,i     
decid$ to leave by !  #g-bj a4m4 ,i _h  
hop$ to be able to g to ,kn91 b we f\nd 
x took  too long = me to rea* ! ya*t 9  
"t4 ,( c\rse1 z usual1 we  arriv$ ages  
too soon at ! /ation4 ,a small boy c>ri$
 mo/ ( my  luggage & my guide ! re/4 ,! 
/ation 0 ab\t a mile f !  hotel1 !re are
 no c>riages 9 ! t[n1 s walk+ is        
compulsory4  ,! tra9 0 already 9 !      
/ation1 & ,i naturally want$ to get     
into x1 b ,i 0 wav$ back by an (ficial1 

& 0 told ,i mu/ wait  till ! appo9t$ "t4
 ,at ,petrovic we *ang$ tra9s1 & ,i _h  
"t  to sket* "o or two natives1 ! woman 
wore v ?ick d>k blue  clo? ) /ripes ( r$
 applique1 & gre5 & orange pip+s &      
/rapp+s1 ) pat*es ( wool embroid]y at   
int]vals1 & an apron  ( _m col\rs1 edg$ 
) a hair fr+e2 h] head 0 cov]$ by a     
:ite embroid]$ cotton k]*ief4 ,also a   
f9e old man made an impos+  figure ) 8  
long br[n coat1 blue tr\s]s hook$       
tightly at !  ankle1 8 _m col\r$        
embroid]$ wai/coat & 8 silv] buttons1  &
 wide lea!r belt1 9 :i* 7 tuck$ weapons 
& pipes4 ,he 0  smok+ a long wood5 pipe1
 hold+ ! b[l 9 8 h&1 *att+ to  me :ile  
,i 0 sket*+ him4    ,we came along ! mo/
 arid c\ntry1 all /ones1 b lots ( v9es  
7 gr[+ app>5tly out ( ! /ones1 z ,i c\ld
 see h>dly  any soil ab\t !m2 9 "s p>ts 
!re 0 m soil1 & on !  hillsides pat*es (
 e>? = v9ey>ds4 ,! railway w9ds 9 & out 
( ! hills :i* are grey1 & ! only bit (  
col\r to be se5 0  9 ! co/umes ( !      
peasants1 :i* 0 an agreeable relief f  !

 great monotony ( /one4 ,m5 & wom5 7 v  
busy digg+ &  att5d+ to ! v9es4 ,we     
pass$ ,tra & ,salona at "s di/ance1 at  
! latt] are _m ,roman rema9s1 :i* are   
beautifully situat$ ov]  ! bay4 ,salona 
0 once ! capital ( ,roman ,dalmatia & _h
 a naval  h>b\r1 its massive walls 7    
wa%$ by ! sea 9 ^? days1 b  n[ x has    
rec$$ f> f ! ru9s4 ,9 ! ,roman ,civil   
,w>1 ,salona  adh]$ to ,cs>1 & 0 besieg$
 by ,octavius1 ,pompey's g5]al4 ,mu*    
excavation is /ill go+ on1 & ! *ief     
relics are remov$ to !  ,museum at      
,spalato4 ,diocletian _h a beautiful    
palace ov]look+ ?is  bay1 :i* cov]$ n9e 
& a half acres 9 ext5t4 ,diocletian 0   
born  ne> ,ragusa4    ,?is little       
railway ends at ,spalato1 :]e we once m 
jo9$ !  ya*t4    ,spalato is            
picturesquely encircl$ by l(ty hills &  
lies 9 a f]tile  region on a p59sula4   
,! t[n owes its "n to a great palace    
7palatium7 ( ,diocletian1  )9 ! prec9cts
 ( :i* a great "p ( ! old t[n is built4 
,! palace =m$ a little _w ( its own1 )  

temples1 ba?s1  c41 ( :i* ! pr9cipal    
rema9s are m or less built ov]1 z  =    
in/ance ! ,ca!dral piazza1 once !       
p]i/yle1 has twelve  ,cor9?ian columns1 
"s ( :i* are built into ! h\ses1 :ile ! 
s\? end is occupi$ by an impos+ ve/ibule
 ) f\r columns ( r$  granite4 ,?is      
ve/ibule once l$ to ! private /ate      
ap>tm5ts &  f x op5s a ,rotunda4    ,!  
,ca!dral1 a f9e edifice1 enclos$ by a   
dilapidat$ colonnade  7orig9ally !      
,mausoleum ( ,diocletian7 is n[ d$icat$ 
to ! ,virg9  & ,/4 ,diomo4 ,9 ! int]ior 
are eight columns1 tw5ty-?ree feet      
high1 be>+ an ambulatory1 on :i* /&     
eight columns :i* 7  once cr[n$ by      
/atues4 ,betwe5 ^! columns at ! top is a
 frieze  ) hunt+ sc5es1 portraits1 &    
v>i\s o!r figures4 ,! pulpit  &         
*oir-/alls are also ,romanesque3 !      
columns ( ! =m] )  _! capitols are v    
f9e4 ,! ,bapti/]y 0 suppos$ to h be5  ! 
private temple ( ,diocletian1 d$icat$ to
 ,jupit]4    ,! ,porta ,aurea is on !   
nor? & is ! palace gate fac+ ! l&4  ,?is

 gate is mo/ impos+ & impressive1 no    
d\bt because x has n  be5 mix$ up )     
mod]n build+s1 s y get a cle> view ( x4 
,happily = me :ile at ,spalato some?+   
w5t wrong ) ! ya*t's  boil]1 ?is mu*    
refre%$ me by its k9dness1 & ,i decid$  
to take  a little jaunt ( my own to     
,tra1 a t[n we _h pass$ on our way1 s   
to ,tra ,i w5t1 accompani$ by ! old     
c\ri] ,angelos4 ,we *>t]$ a  c>riage &  
drove to ?is de> little place ) a lovely
 old ,v5etian  ,ca!dral4 ,at ,spalato we
 _h a ?und]/orm1 & ! wea!r /ill  look$  
?reat5+1 s aft] see+ ! sights ( ,tra1 ,i
 settl$ d[n  to "w on ! old ,v5etian    
gate ( ! t[n4 ,i _h only "t to draw  x t
 ev5+ & hop$ to return next day1 z we _h
 to /ay !  night at ,tra1 b alas6 x ra9$
 h>d all night1 & ,i 0 wond]+  if ,i    
%\ld rise at day-break or n1 :5 ,i      
sudd5ly rememb]$ !  door & cov]$-9 por* 
( ! ,ca!dral4 ,to ?is ,i />t$ (f 9 a    
d[np\r1 b f\nd ,i c\ld sit com=tably    
inside ! por*1 & !re  old ,angelos f\nd 
me 9 due c\rse1 h>d at "w1 & !re ,i sat 

till  lun* "t4    ,illu/ration3 ,!      
,ca!dral ,por*1 ,tra4    ,illu/ration   
,9 ! aft]noon x cle>$1 & ,i w5t on pa9t+
 ! gate1 b  ! w9d blew my sket* twice (f
 ! easel1 s ,i _h to give x up &  ord]$ 
! c>riage to return to ,spalato4 ,two   
ruffianly look+ y\?s  clad 9 br[n coats 
) hoods act$ z coa*man & footman4 ,:5 we
  rea*$ ! octroi1 !y _h to ?r[ back _!  
coats = inspection  und]nea?2 z x 0 ra9+
 & ! hood 0 up1 ! d\ani]  proce$$ to    
exam9e ! inside ( ! c>riage1 & f\nd old 
,angelos  & myself1 at :i* he salut$    
respectfully & wav$ u on4    ,i f\nd !  
family also anxi\s to visit ,tra1 & next
 morn+ we  all return$ by sea1 s mu* !  
bett] = my gate6 ,! drive is  q pretty1 
& x 0 a treat to see gre5 once m4 ,on ! 
way ,i  pass$ sev5 villages all call$   
,ca/ello some?+1 z ,ca/elvec*io1        
,ca/elnuovo1 c41 relics ( old feudal    
times1 !re be+ a ca/le 9  ! c5tre ( ea* 
village ) h\ses all r\nd x4 ,i long$ to 
visit  ea*1 b _h no "t4    ,! m5's      
co/umes are v /rik+1 blue tr\s]s op5 at 

! back  ( ! ankle to t5 in*es f ! %oe--a
 /r+ s&al--little brass  hooks & eyes to
 fa/5 !m :5 requir$1 r$ sa%es & tabs at 
! wai/1 ! sa% 9 :i* ! usual weapon      
reposes1 br[n jacket  ) crimson velvet  
sla%es & fr+e ornam5t+ ! front1 pip$  ) 
crimson all r\nd1 a wai/coat ( r$ velvet
 ) silv] buttons1  & ! sc>let cap cr[ns 
all4 ,! wom5 look well 9 d>k blue1 )  a 
r$ b& r\nd ! bottom ( ! skirt1 col\r$   
h&k]*iefs on  _! heads2 "s wore long    
blue coats pip$ ) r$ & r$ b&s  embroid]$
 d[n ! sides1 a sort ( /ock+-%oe        
embroid]$ 9 _m  col\rs & an apron ( r$ &
 yell[4    ,! l&lord at ,tra 0 surpris$ 
& pleas$ to see me aga9 = my  frugal    
lun* ( fri$ eggs1 ,p>mesan *eese &      
radi%es2 ! ya*t _h  an*or$ s f> out1 ,i 
c\ld n g back to x4 ,i f9i%$ my "w 9    
h&1 & !n tri$ to draw ! att5tion (      
someone on ! ya*t1 b  x 0 no use1 s ,i  
_h to hire a boat f %ore4    ,x 0 twelve
 h\rs run f ,spalato to ,gravosa 7!     
h>b\r (  ,ragusa74 ,we came pa/ ! isl&s 
( ,les9a1 ,lissa1 ,curzola1 &           

,sabioncello1 & d[n ! ,canale di        
,melita4 ,we ?\ght ( call+ at  ! t[n (  
,curzola1 :i* is well wor? a visit1 b z 
x 0 bl[+  h>d1 we deem$ x wis] to pu%   
on4    ,we rea*$ ,ragusa next morn+ aft]
 a roll+ night1 & an*or$  opposite !    
t[n2 b !re 0 su* a roll on1 ,i 0 sure t 
none  b ! be/ sailors w\ld come to      
breakfa/1 s we mov$ into ! port  (      
,gravosa1 two miles away4    ,mr4 ,t4 & 
,i walk$ to ! t[n1 he1 poor man1        
politely c>ry+ my  sat*el4 ,on ! way we 
pass$ _m villas4 ,! old t[n is ent]$ by 
a *>m+ old gate1 call$ ,porta ,pille2   
old walls surr\nd ! t[n1  :i* is also a 
=tress4 ,directly y ent] ! gate a qua9t 
f\nta9  meets y\r gaze1 & _m figures 9  
co/umes are gr\p$ ab\t x4 ,we  w&]$ on  
d[n ! pr9cipal /reet ( %ops1 9 _m ( :i* 
7  collections ( curiosities1           
embroid]ies1 bags1 belts1 swords1 old   
inlaid "m-(-pe>l /ock$ guns1 c41 ! belts
 ( enorm\s weight  7 /udd$ ) agates1 & 7
 said to h be5 worn by ! wom54  ,n>r[   
/reets1 ) innum]able /eps1 bran*$ (f f !

 ma9  /reet2 sev]al *ur*es & two        
mona/]ies1 ! ,franciscan ) a  *>m+ old  
c\rty>d4    ,illu/ration3 ,a ,/reet 9   
,ragusa    ,illu/ration    ,! ,rector's 
,palace _h a f9e portico2 ^! 7 among !  
?+s we  saw1 b ,i h no d\bt t !re 7 _m  
o!rs we did n see (  equal int]e/1 z my 
att5tion 0 rivett$ on "o ( ! /eep side  
/reets1 bright ) all k9ds ( col\r$ clo?+
 /rung across x4  ,i _h h>dly />t$ "w1  
:5 d[n came ! ra9 9 torr5ts4 ,i  s5t old
 ,angelos (f = a c>riage :ile ,i took   
refuge 9 a doorway1  & ,i g5]\sly gave !
 old c\ri] my umbrella z he _h none4    
,aft]  wait+ a long "t & gett+ 9 despair
 ( 8 ev] return+1 ,i  sudd5ly he>d 8    
voice r\nd a corn]1 s ,i ran4 ,:y he    
took s long  01 t he _h q =gott5 :]e he 
_h left me6    ,"s ( ! o!rs rea*$ ! quay
 at ! same "t z ,i did2 ! ra9  com+ d[n 
9 %eets made x v difficult to get on    
bo>d1 & !  d+ey 0 simply a l>ge pool (  
wat]4    ,9 ! aft]noon we w5t 9 ! laun* 
up ! riv] ( ! ,val d'  ,ombra1 z we 7   
told x 0 a v nice excursion2 ! c\ntry 0 

v ugly1 b ! wat] at ! fall seem$ to     
bubble up f !  gr\nd1 com+ ?r\gh1 n d[n 
! m\nta91 :5 x _h disappe>$  entirely = 
n9ete5 miles4    ,on ,april #bj? we left
 ,gravosa = ,catt>o4 ,!re is n mu* to   
see  9 ! t[n !re1 b ! m>ket 0 mo/       
fasc9at+1 peasants 9  co/ume f all p>ts1
 ,brda1 or ,mont5egro1 c41 c4 ,!        
,mont5egr9s  are a v good look+ f9e     
race4 ,! wom5 "p ! hair 9 !  middle1 &  
we> enorm\sly ?ick plaits ( hair r\nd ! 
head1 a  black %awl 9 cold wea!r = !    
m>ri$ wom5 & a little cap =  ! girls1   
embroid]$ on ! cr[n ) ,i4,h4 7,ni*ola   
,i471 a long  :ite sleeveless coat1 a   
blue or r$ z\ave ( velvet1 beautifully  
embroid]$ 9 gold1 ord9>y skirt & apron1 
& %oes ( calf sk9  ) /r+ tops & /raps1 a
 sock ) a bord] ( r$ & blue  is worn ov]
 ! /ock+4 ,! m5 we> ! little r\nd cap1 !
  sleeveless :ite coat1 & r$ wai/coat   
embroid]$ 9 black &  silv] buttons1     
wide1 bright blue pantaloons1 & a sa% & 
lea!rn  pocket 9 :i* ! revolv] re/s--^! 
latt] !y always we>1  except on m>ket   

days at ,catt>o1 :]e all fire>ms h to be
 left  beh9d4 ,!y 7m5 & wom57 are       
spl5did specim5s ( humanity1  e man a   
soldi] & a g5tleman1 ) a f9e c>riage & a
 mo/  dignifi$ mann]2 !y salute or b[1  
(t5 bo?4    ,9 ! aft]noon1 ,angelos & ,i
 />t$ (f 9 a c>riage to drive to        
,cett9je1 ! capital ( ,mont5egro1 :]e ,i
 /ay$ ! night4    ,! road zig-zags up ! 
m\nta9 side all ! way f ,catt>o to  a   
,col1 !n zig-zags d[n on ! o!r side to  
,cett9je1 :i* lies  ne/l+ at ! foot (   
/eep hills & at ! end ( a cultivat$     
valley4 ,! road 0 9 a /ate ( repair1 & 0
 a mass ( /ones all  ! way1 :i* made !  
drive ( sev5 h\rs v tir+4 ,! sc5]y  is v
 gr& & rugg$1 ! m\nta9s p9ky grey 9     
col\r1 ) v  little gre5 at ! comm5cem5t 
( ! asc5t ev51 & ^! are  *iefly %rubs2  
!n ?is gre5 ends1 & is entirely left    
beh9d1 &  ! m\nta9s /& out 9 all _!     
rugg$ness1 ) an occasional  pat* ( sn[  
/ill left by ! road side at ! end (     
,april4    ,!re is v little soil except 
9 ! valleys1 & ^! are old lake  bas9s4  

,e bit ( soil is us$ 9 cultivation4 ,=  
miles & miles  !re is no?+ to be se5 b  
rugg$1 jagg$ rock4    ,on our way we    
pass$ a few ?at*$ cottages1 & /opp$ to  
bait !  horses at ! only village on !   
road1 call$ ,njegus1 :i* is a  %ort     
di/ance ov] ! fronti]4 ,9 ?is village ! 
h\se is %[n  :]e ,pr9ce ,ni*ola 0 born4 
,:ile wait+ "h1 ,i _h a frugal meal  (  
eggs1 bread & w9e1 & ,i made a sket* ( a
 v f9e look+  "y man1 mu* to 8 amusem5t 
& gratification1 z he seem$ q  pleas$ ) 
8 appe>ance on pap]4 ,sev]al o!r good   
look+ "y  m5 came to criticise1 "s spoke
 a little ,italian b mo/ (  !m ,slav1 ,i
 suppose1 z !y are ! desc5dants ( ! old 
nobility  ( ! ,s]vian ,empire1 :o fl$ to
 ! ,black ,m\nta9s to escape  ,turki%   
oppression1 & :o ma9ta9$ _! lib]ty &    
indep5d5ce  aga9/ all com]s = m ?an five
 c5turies4    ,illu/ration3 ,mont5egro4 
,illu/ration    ,a bl9d musician came to
 play :ile ,i 0 lun*+1 8 in/rum5t _h  "o
 /r+ only1 :i* is usual 9 ?is c\ntry2 b 
x 0 z sweet  & melodi\s z ?\gh x _h _m  

/r+s4    ,! aspect ( ! sc5]y 0 mu* !    
same until we rea*$ ! ,col1  b :5 !re ! 
view 0 gr& 9 ! extreme4    ,range aft]  
range ( rocky1 jagg$ m\nta9s1 ! lake (  
,scut>i 9  ! dim di/ance & ! ,albanian  
m\nta9s 9 sn[ beh9d1 & a  p9ky gl[ f !  
sett+ sun enhanc$ ! view4 ,"h we paus$ a
  few mom5ts1 !n began to desc5d to     
,cett9je1 :i* we rea*$ aft]  driv+ = "s 
h\rs4    ,be=e go+ fur!r1 ,i w say a    
little ab\t ,mont5egro1 :i* 9  ext5t is 
ab\t half ! size ( ,wales4 ,!re are a   
few small t[ns  dott$ ab\t1 ! capital is
 ,cett9je1 & ! only t[n ,i visit$4  ,!  
seaport t[n is ,dulcigno1 on !          
,adriatic2 ! :ole c\ntry is  v m\nta9\s 
& !re are sev]al small lakes1 ! pr9cipal
 "o  is ,scut>i1 ( :i* half belongs to  
,mont5egro & ! o!r half to  ,albania4   
,if ,i _h _h "t1 ,i %\ld h mu* lik$ to h
 driv5 to ,lake  ,scut>i1 b x w\ld h    
tak5 a :ole day to g !re & back f       
,cett9je1 s ,i _h to give x up4 ,!      
,mont5egr9s are su* delightful  p1 t ,i 
believe y c g any:]e 9 _! c\ntry & feel 

p]fectly safe1 !y are p>ticul>ly        
hospitable to /rang]s4 ,9 !  "t ( w> )  
,turkey1 ! ,turki% wom5 & *ildr5 fl$    
into  ,mont5egro1 kn[+ !y w\ld be       
p]fectly safe f insult ( any  k9d 9 !   
enemy's t]ritory4    ,!re is b little   
f>m+ l& 9 ,mont5egro1 ! peasant is glad 
to  enclose ! t9ie/ pat* ( f]tile soil  
reta9$ by ! holl[s 9  ! m\nta9 sides4   
,! l>ge/ l& proprietor is ! own] ( sixty
 acres1 & o!r  freehold e/ates v>y f two
 to tw5ty acres1 & x is usually n  to ! 
individual1 b to ! family t ?is own]%ip 
belongs4    ,! hi/ory ( ,mont5egro f !  
e>lie/ times to ! ,turki% ,w> (  #ahgg1 
is "o ( incessant w>s & raids1 ?r\gh\t !
 :ole ( :i*  ! c\ntry has pres]v$ its   
indep5d5ce1 ev5 :5 ,turki% p[] 0  spread
 ov] ! :ole ( s\?-ea/]n ,europe4 ,!     
accession ( !  pres5t dyna/y dates f    
#afhg4 ,pr9ce ,ni*ola 7! reign+ ,pr9ce  
& fa!r ( ! ,que5 ( ,italy7 conduct$ a   
successful w> aga9/  ,turkey2 he is a   
dramati/1 & also introduc$ a new code ( 
laws4    ,be>s & wolves are /ill to be  

f\nd 9 ! highe/ =e/s4    ,cett9je has a 
population ( ab\t #a1cjj p1 ! h\ses are 
:itewa%$1 ) r$ ro(s4 ,! :ole t[n is v   
clean 9 appe>ance4    ,x has a broad ma9
 /reet1 cross$ by small] /reets4 ,9 !   
ma9  /reet are ! h\ses ( ! =eign        
repres5tatives4 ,9 ! squ>e  is ! palace 
( ! ,pr9ce ,ni*ola1 unpret5ti\s 9       
appe>ance &  only di/+ui%able by ! gu>d 
9 front ( x4 ,! ,pr9ce /ill  adm9i/]s   
op5-air ju/ice be=e 8 palace1 ?\gh      
lately ! l>ge  tree "u :i* he sat has   
fall51 ,i believe4    ,illu/ration3     
,cett9je4    ,n f> (f is ! palace (     
,pr9ce ,danilo1 8 son1 ! hall (  ! s5ate
 be+ on ! gr\nd floor4 ,! ,m9i/ry1 !    
,c\rt (  ,ju/ice1 & ! prison are        
adjac5t1 & opposite ! ,m9i/ry is  !     
,mona/]y1 9 ^: *ur* ! ance/ors ( !      
reign+ h\se  are buri$4 ,above !        
,mona/]y rises a r\nd t[]1 :i* until    
lately 0 adorn$ by ,turki% skulls4 ,ne> 
! ,mona/]y is ! ,museum  9 :i* are _m   
torn /&>ds1 arms1 m$als1 etc41 etc4     
,mont5egro has a /&+ army1 9 :i* e      

able-bodi$ man s]ves  = a t]m ( f\r     
mon?s at a "t4 ,! ,mont5egr9s are z f9e 
soldi]s z c be f\nd1 & ! ,pr9ce takes ! 
ke5e/ int]e/ 9  8 army & 8 p4 ,e morn+  
he rides ov] to ! squ>e1  :]e 8 subjects
 await him b>e-head$4 ,he signs "o to 8 
side1  :o1 aft] kiss+ 8 h&1 walks along 
by ! side ( 8 horse z  f> z ! b>racks1 !
 ,pr9ce mean:ile discuss+ & que/ion+    
him z to 8 family affairs1 or crops1 c4 
,at ! b>racks !  ,pr9ce wat*es ! drill+1
 *ats ) 8 (fic]s1 & inspects  ! build+1 
aft] :i* he w (t5 visit ! ,law ,c\rts & 
sup]9t5d affairs4    ,8 p rev]5ce him1 &
 look ^u him z _! fa!r 9 m  ?an "n4     
,i /ay$ at a com=table hotel1 & next    
morn+ ,angelos & ,i  w&]$ ab\t ! /reets1
 />t+ at #f a4m4 & visit+ sev]al  %ops1 
z ,i 0 p>ticul>ly anxi\s to buy "o ( !  
pretty co/umes1  :i* are s becom+1 &    
w\ld make su* a *>m+ fancy dress2 !     
%oes 7 tiresome to get1 z ,i did n fancy
 ! calf-sk9 ones :i*  ,i 0 told ,i mu/  
soak to s(t51 ^! ,i scorn$1 & at la/    
f\nd a  v sm>t pair ) lea!r soles &     

ornam5t$ /r+ tops4    ,z ,i _h to get   
back to ! ya*t & want$ to d "s sket*+ on
  ! way1 & 0 tir$ ( w&]+ ab\t on foot1  
we />t$ on our  return j\rney to ,catt>o
 at #i-cj1 & x 0 ) mu* regret t ,i  left
 ^! *>m+ p & _! c\ntry4    ,illu/ration3
 ,! ,m>ket ,place1 ,cett9je4    ,ab\t   
half-way ,i paus$ to sket*1 x 0 bitt]ly 
cold1 & by !  "t ,i _h f9i%$ c\ld h>dly 
feel my f+]s4 ,! horses _h  be5 tak5 out
 ( ! c>riage & ,i _h lun* to w>m me up2 
x 0  compos$ ( eggs fri$ 9 rancid oil--v
 na/y6 b ! bread  0 ( excell5t rye4 ,!  
re/ ( our p>ty pass$ u on _! way to     
,cett9je1 :i* !y int5d$ to visit &      
return 9 ! same day4  ,soon ! w9d rose &
 came 9 gu/s at e zig-zag go+ d[n !     
m\nta9 side2 ,i did n envy ! o!rs :o    
c\ld n rea* ! ya*t  aga9 till t5        
o'clock4 ,! ev5+ 0 v /ormy1 we ?\ght (  
_! t]rible drive 9 ! d>k1 & 7 on ! look 
out all !  ev5+ = !m4 ,ab\t eight we saw
 two lights on ! m\nta9 sl[ly  desc5d+1 
s we 7 sure x mu/ be our travell]s1 :o  
arriv$ safe  & s\nd ab\t #aj-cj1 v tir$1

 & "o driv] 0 drunk1 s ^?  9 ! c>riage  
walk$ eight miles r ?an drive4 ,a /ormy1
 wild  coa/ is ?is1 w>m 9 ! valleys b   
bitt]ly cold 9 ! m\nta9s1  & a good deal
 ( sn[ /ill at ! end ( ,april4    ,aft] 
,mont5egro ,i decid$ to return once m to
 ,ragusa--t f9e  old =tress t[n--) ,miss
 ,b41 s we bade f>ewell to ! ya*t &     
retrac$ our /eps once m1 & f !re we     
travell$ ?r\gh  ,h]zegov9a & ,bosnia4   
,"h a new guide met me f ,pola1 /rongly 
recomm5d$ by a fri5d (  ours !re1 & he  
prov$ a great success1 by "n ,k>abai*4  
,miss ,b4 & ,i f\nd ourselves at a v    
com=table hotel--,!  ,imp]ial--:]e we   
/ay$ a week 9 ?is delightful old t[n    
surr\nd$  by walls & =tresses4          
,illu/ration3 ,! ,fontana ,on(rio1      
,ragusa4    ,illu/ration    ,ragusa lies
 at ! foot ( ,monte ,s]jio1 & is built  
on its /eep  slopes4 ,d[n to #ahje x 0  
an indep5d5t republic1 b 0 annex$  by   
,napoleon1 & lat] 9 #ahad by ,au/ria4   
,we ent] ! t[n f  ,gravosa by ! ,porta  
,pille1 :]e 9 ! ni*e ov] ! gateway is ! 

/atue ( ,/4 ,biagio1 ! patron sa9t ( !  
t[n1 :i* is entirely  surr\nd$ by       
enorm\sly ?ick walls1 on :i* x is       
p]mitt$ to  walk by an ord] f !         
comm&ant's (fice2 b we f\nd great]      
attractions4 ,on pass+ ?r\gh ,porta     
,pille y ent] ! long wide  /reet call$ !
 ,corso1 & "h on ,sundays !y run races1 
"o (  :i* we saw1 two m5 7 runn+        
backw>ds & =w>ds = f\r  miles4 ,! ,corso
 ext5ds f "o end ( ! t[n to ! o!r1 & is 
flank$ by ! pr9cipal %ops & "s ( !      
,*ur*es4    ,on ! "r1 ne> ! gate1 is !  
l>ge f\nta9 call$ ,on(rio1  :i* 0 built 
9 #adgc1 & "h _m picturesque figures    
come to draw  wat]4 ,to ! left is !     
,franciscan ,*ur*1 ) its f9e cloi/]s  & 
its ,go?ic portal4 ,r l[] d[n ! /reet on
 ! opposite  side is ! ,s]vian ,*ur*1 at
 ! ea/ end ( ! ,corso1 9 a squ>e1  is ! 
,*ur* ( ,/4 ,biagio4 ,on ! left is !    
cu/om h\se1 =m]ly  ! m9t4 ,?is 0 built 9
 ! ,v5etian /yle1 ab\t #aebj1 & is      
adorn$ ) a /atue ( ,/4 ,biagio1 x has   
also a h&some c\rty>d4  ,ne>1 is ! clock

 t[] & ! gu>d h\se ) an old f\nta94 ,!n 
comes ! ,palazzo ,comunale & ! ,museum4 
,! ,rector's ,palace ) its  f9e         
colonnade is mo/ /rik+1 & pass+ ?r\gh ! 
doorway is a  beautiful c\rty>d surr\nd$
 by pill>s1 & a noble m>ble /aircase    
possibly dat+ f ! fifte5? c5tury1 b     
rec5tly re/or$4    ,walk+ fur!r on y    
come to ! ,ca!dral1 built 9 !  sev5te5? 
c5tury4 ,f "h we pass on to ! m>ket     
place1 :i*  has a beautiful old ,v5etian
 door2 !re "o day ,i sket*$ "u          
difficulties1 ) a curi\s cr[d & a te>+  
w9d1 :i* :irl$  ! du/ r\nd & r\nd ov] me
 & my easel1 9 a v aggravat+  mann]4    
,return+ :5ce we came1 we walk$ along to
 ! clock t[]1 :i* we  pass$ "u1 &       
imm$iately to our left 0 ! ,dom9ican    
,mona/]y1  up sev]al flights ( /eps4    
,my fir/ day 0 sp5t 9 %opp+ &           
sight-see+1 ! =m]  consi/$ ( buy+ "s ( !
 beautiful gold embroid]ies4 ,i f\nd    
:at ,i ?9k w make a beautiful d9n] g[n1 
! coat is embroid]$  ne>ly all ov] ) !  
mo/ exquisite gold embroid]y2 ?is coat  

is  sleeveless1 b belong+ to x are      
sleeves :i* are also a mass (           
embroid]y1 ^! are cut p]fectly /raight1 
s impossible to we>1  b ,i ?9k !y c be  
adapt$ by we>+ !m outside o!rs &  all[$ 
to fall loose4 ,i also b\ght a gold     
embroid]$ man's wai/coat  :i* makes a v 
sm>t trimm+ = a coat1 or c\ld be us$ = a
  w9t] g[n4 ,i f\nd "s old silv] p9s =  
hats1 & a qua9t jug  :i* has a secret h[
 to dr9k out ( x )\t spill+ ! w9e4  ,x  
is v old1 ! w9e comes up ! h&le1 r\nd ! 
top ( ! jug  to ! lip1 9 :i* is a hole  
to dr9k1 all ! top ( ! jug is  p]=at$1 s
 x is necess>y to "k ! secret to avoid  
spill+  ! w9e4 ,i add$ _m o!r ?+s to my 
collection & s5t !m on  to ! ya*t to be 
br\ght home4 ,^! %ops are too fasc9at+ =
  words1 !re are s _m ?+s y c't get at  
,lib]ty's1 wond]ful  to relate4 ,!re are
 quantities ( old fire>ms = sale1 old   
guns )  inlaid /ocks1 pi/ols ( all sizes
 & %apes1 c41 c4 ,! place 0  full (     
visitors speak+ 9 ,g]man tongue1 b we   
saw no ,engli%1 or  ev5 ! ev] pres5t    

,am]ican4 ,!re are _m old build+s wor?  
visit+1 & ! /reets are v qua9t &        
picturesque1 also v  n>r[1 /ret*+ up !  
hillsides2 "o wide long /reet d[n !     
c5tre ( ! t[n1 :]e ! pr9cipal %ops are  
to be f\nd4    ,friday & ,saturday      
morn+s ,i sp5t 9 pa9t+ ! cloi/]s ( !    
,dom9ican ,mona/]y1 & ,i p]suad$ "o ( ! 
"y monks to pose =  me1 sitt+ ne> !     
well4 ,9 ! aft]noon ,miss ,b4 & ,i walk$
 ab\t  ! qua9t old /reets & saw _m      
attractive bits = ! bru%1 &  !n _h c(fee
 at a caf & sat on ! t]race1 b ! w9d 0  
cold1 z we 7 n 9 ! sun :i* is hot4      
,c]ta9ly ! wea!r z  to ! int5se cold _h 
some:at improv$1 & we f\nd x unnecess>y 
to we> s _m coats & woolly ?+s z be=e1  
:i* 0 a bless+4    ,! peasants 7 v      
picturesque1 & !re is a great v>iety (  
co/ume bo? 9 m5 & wom51 "s ( c\rse v    
%abby1 & "o  wond]s h[ _! rags hold     
toge!r4 ,all ^! t[ns are wond]fully     
clean & ab\t "h all ! p look clean1 ?\gh
 !y may be  v ragg$4 ,! monks at !      
mona/]y 7 v int]e/$ 9 my  "w1 & cr[d$ on

 to ! balcony above me1 *att]+ l        
magpies4  ,sunday1 ,i w5t to high ,mass1
 & 9 ! aft]noon took a c>riage to  drive
 to ,san ,giacomo1 a disus$ mona/]y4    
,k>abai* sat on ! box  ) my sket*+      
mat]ials4 ,c>riages are horribly        
exp5sive1 at  ! rate ( ab\t two %ill+s a
 mile4 ,un=tunately we took x =  grant$ 
t we c\ld get on to ! t]race1 & all[$ ! 
c>riage  to g away ) in/ructions to     
return 9 ?ree h\rs4 ,alas6 ! doors  7   
all lock$1 & ?\gh we f\nd out :]e !     
cu/odian liv$1 he  _h gone to ! t[n1 s z
 x 0 n v f> to walk to ! ,villa         
,adrian1 ,k>abai* & ,i decid$ to look at
 x on our way back on foot1  z we c\ld n
 sp5d ?ree h\rs do+ no?+ by ! wayside4  
,!  ,villa ,adrian is a p5sion1 a *>m+  
situation ) sev]al t]races  d[n to !    
sea2 all is q new except "s ( ! columns 
us$ 9  ! p]golas4 ,i made v>i\s         
enquiries ab\t ! p5sion1 b 0 n  pleas$ )
 ! idea ( always s*9k5 7ham7 = supp]1 & 
!  rooms ,i saw did n impress me        
fav\rably ei!r4 ,9 t5 ye>s' "t  ! g>d5 w

 be lovely1 no d\bt1 & 9 ! summ] :5 !   
leaves  are out x mu/ n[ be q nice4     
,! next day we w5t to ! mu* talk$ (     
,isl& ( ,lacroma1 to :i*  a small laun* 
conveys y1 & y pay ! sum ( two krones to
 g &  return1 & ano!r krone to ! solit>y
 ,dom9ican monk :o inhabits  ! isl&4    
,lacroma us$ to belong to ! ,emp]or     
,maximilian1 &  !n to ,pr9ce ,rudolf1 b 
x 0 !n consid]$ s unlucky t !  ,emp]or  
h&$ x ov] to ! ,dom9icans4 ,i ask$ !    
monk if he _h  se5 any gho/s1 at :i* he 
0 mu* amus$4 ,"p ( ! ,mona/]y c  be w&]$
 ov]1 & ! g>d5s w\ld be *>m+ if well    
plant$  ) fl[]s4 ,^! g>d5s1 ( :i* !re   
are sev]al1 are surr\nd$  by high h$ges1
 & box bord]s en\gh to delight any "o4  
,! rooms  ( ! mona/]y are b>e1 b ov] ea*
 b$room door is a rhyme 9  ,g]man1 su*  
z3--      8,freund 9 d] ,dro?           
,freund 9 d] ,todt     ,freund h9t]n    
,rck5     ,das s9d drei />ke ,brck510   
& ano!r      8,s*weig und ,meig     ,w]k
 und ,leid     ,j$es ,d+ hat se9e       
,zeit40    & s on ov] ea* door4    ,i   

saw _m pr9ts ( ,que5 ,victoria1 ,pr9ce  
,alb]t1 & o!r  ,royalties1 also sev]al  
engrav+s ( old ,engli% pictures by fam\s
  arti/s4 ,! isl& is itself cov]$ )     
small fir & cypress trees1  & has _m    
%ady walks4 ,we _h "s "t to wait = !    
return  laun*1 & amus$ ourselves by     
sket*+ ! monk2 ,miss ,b4 took a  photo (
 him & promis$ him a copy4 ,on our      
return ! t[n 0 gay  ) p ( all           
nationalities & co/umes to see a great  
race be+  run d[n ! pr9cipal /reet1 by  
two m5 :o ran = an h\r &  a half )\t    
/opp+4 ,i sat at ! caf & sket*$ "s ( !  
p4    ,aft] d9n] !re 0 no?+ to be done  
or to see 9 ! t[n1 & z  ! draw+-rooms   
soon became v /uffy1 ,i w5t (f to my    
room aft]  supp]4    ,"o aft]noon :ile  
we 7 amus+ ourselves by turn+ ov]1 &  ,i
 am afraid pur*as+1 "s ( ! fasc9at+     
goods 9 "o ( !  %ops1 we f\nd a         
bridegroom mak+ pur*ases = 8 bride      
elect1  :o 0 att5d$ by h] "m & aunt z   
*ap]ones4 ,bo? bride  & bridegroom came 
f ! ,canali di/rict1 :]e ! wom5 we>  a v

 *>m+ co/ume ( bright col\rs4 ,on ! head
 is a little  r$ & gold embroid]$ cap1  
ov] x a :ite embroid]$ accordian  pleat$
 h&k]*ief1 embroid]$ ve/ & bol]o1 )     
tassels (  gold col\r$ silk on sleeves &
 bodice1 a :ite apron ) a deep          
embroid]$ hem1 probably a bright blue   
accordian pleat$ skirt )  a bord] ( "s  
o!r col\r4 ,ab\t ! bodice & wai/ are _m 
ribbons z ornam5t1 & a sa% ( _m col\rs  
r\nd ! wai/4 ,we saw  a good _m s dress$
 on ,ea/] ,sunday 9 ! t[n4    ,on ,april
 #d? we left ,ragusa 9 dr5*+ ra91 :i*   
began ! day  be=e & cont9u$ all ! j\rney
 to ,mo/>1 b 0 happily f9e  aft] our    
arrival ab\t #g-cj4 ,?is is a j\rney (  
eight h\rs ?r\gh  ! m\nta9s ( rugg$ grey
 /one4 ,! railway goes up a great       
height & w9ds 9 & out ( ! hills1 ! view 
is m gr& ?an  beautiful4 ,! tra9 /ops at
 _m little /ations = ! sole reason  (   
all[+ ! travell]s to h dr9ks1 we        
conclud$1 z at _m  places we /ay$ t5    
m9utes = app>5tly no reason except t we 
saw ! travell]s flock+ into a b>4       

,illu/ration3 ,! ,old ,bridge1 ,mo/>4   
,illu/ration    ,h]zegov9a1 s9ce #ahgh1 
has be5 "u ! titul> dom9ion ( !  ,turki%
 ,sultan1 b ! adm9i/ration (            
,au/ria-,hung>y4 ,x is  b\nd$ on ! nor? 
& ea/ by ,bosnia1 s\? by ,mont5egro1 &  
we/  by ,dalmatia1 & only j t\*es !     
,adriatic at ,sutt]9a4 ,"s  di/ricts1 ^?
 ( ,niksi* & ,domitor1 h be5 plac$ by ! 
,treaty  ( ,b]l9 "u ! ,gov]nm5t ( !     
,pr9ce ( ,mont5egro4    ,! great] "p ( !
 population belong to ! ,greek ,*ur*4   
,!n  come ab\t #gj1jjj ,moham$ans1 "s   
,roman ,ca?olics1 ,jews1 & ,gipsies4  ,!
 ,mahom$an population are ^? t /rike !  
eye mo/1 probably  because ( ! m5's     
picturesque dress1 & ! baza>s :i* "o    
makes  a po9t ( visit+4    ,! p live    
*iefly 9 hamlets1 & !re are only ab\t   
five  t[ns2 ! capital ( ,h]zegov9a is   
,mo/>4    ,ov] ! riv] ,n>5ta1 at ,mo/>1 
is a f9e old ,roman bridge :i*  connects
 two p>ts ( ! t[n4    ,! riv] ,n>5ta is 
! pr9cipal riv]1 & along its valley lies
  ! mo/ cultivation1 olives1 mulb]ries1 

figs1 melons1 grapes1 rice1  & maize are
 gr[n4 ,9 "s places !re are =e/s ( bee* 
&  p9e4 ,_m ( ! m\nta9s rea* to a height
 ( #h1ejj feet ne> !  ,mont5egr9        
fronti]4 ,!re are _m %eep & goats1 out (
 ! wool  ( :i* ! long :ite ?ick coats   
are made t y see hang+ at  %op doors 9 !
 hamlets all ! way to ,mo/>4 ,!re is a  
high road  f ,s]jevo 9 ,bosnia1 ?r\gh   
,h]zegov9a to ! ,adriatic4    ,we visit$
 ^! p>ts 9 ,april1 b x 0 f> too e>ly =  
com=t1  & ,i %\ld n recomm5d anyone to  
attempt x be=e ,june4    ,h]zegov9a     
seems to h *ang$ h&s _m times )9 ! la/  
#djj ye>s1 at "o "t belong+ to ,hung>y1 
& !n to ,bosnia1 !n  ,turkey conqu]$ x2 
e>li]1 too1 ! ,v5etians seem$ to h a    
look  94 ,( its hi/ory "u ! ,turks !re  
seems to be no p>ticul>  records4       
,feudalism1 "u ,mahom$an guise cont9u$  
to survive "h4  ,! ,spahis1 begs1 or    
agas1 7 m$ival lords :o _h apo/atiz$ to 
,islam4 ,!y kept _! ance/ral ca/les1    
bann]s & title de$s1 &  pat5ts (        
nobility4 ,!y enact$ feudal s]vice f _! 

s]fs &  reta9]s4 ,"o ( ^! ,mahom$an     
nobles1 ,ali1 ,aga ( ,/olac1 did su*    
good s]vice = ! ,sultan 9 8 /ruggle ) ! 
,bosnian magnates1  t he 0 made ,vizi] (
 ,h]zegov9a1 :i* 0 fre$ = a :ile  f     
,bosnian gov]nm5t4 ,! re=m ( ,sultan    
,mahm\d did n by any  means remove !    
grievances ( ! population ( ,h]zegov9a4 
,! s]fs  _h n[ to satisfy ! extortion ( 
imp]ial excisem5t z well z f  _! feudal 
lords4 ,! begs & agas extort$ f !m =c$  
lab\r  & a ?ird ( ! produce2 ! c5tral   
gov]nm5t levi$ a ti!1  :i* at ! date ( !
 outbreak _h become an eigh?4 ,?ree k9ds
  ( cattle tax3 ! tax = exemption f     
milit>y s]vice levi$  on e infant 9     
arms1 =c$ lab\r 9 ! roads1 =c$ loan (   
horses1 a heavy tax on grapes & tobacco1
 & a v>iety ( less]  taxes cru%$ !      
,*ri/ian peasants2 b m gall+ /ill !     
mann]  9 :i* ^! taxes 7 extort$--!      
iniquit\s assessm5t ( tax  f>m]s &      
excisem5--& ! brutal lic5se ( !         
,zaptiehs qu>t]$  on recalcitrant       
villag]s4 ,all ?is caus$ ! insurrection 

( #ahge1  ! villag]s ( ,nev9s+e 7:i*    
takes its "n f a plateau ne>  ,mo/>7 :o 
7 unable to be> ! extortions & outrages 
committ$  by ! ,zaptiehs & ba%i-bas\ks1 
rose aga9/ _! oppressors4 ,!            
insurrection spread rapidly ?r\gh       
,h]zegov9a & on to ,bosnia1 &  = a ye> !
 ,h]zegov9ians "u _! lead]s held out    
aga9/ all  ! =ces ( ,turkey1 & 9 two    
/ruggles 9 ! gorge ( ,muratovizza  !    
,turks lo/ ov] #b1jjj m54 ,9 ,july1     
#ahgf1 pr9cipalities jo9$  9 ! /ruggle2 
! ,russo-,turki% w> foll[$1 & by !      
treaty  ( ,b]l91 ! gov]nm5t ( ,h]zegov9a
 & ,bosnia 0 confid$ to                 
,au/ria-,hung>y1 :ile ,niksi* & ! c\ntry
 ab\t ,m\nt ,dormitor  7 deta*$ f       
,h]zegov9a & annex$ to ,mont5egro4      
,curi\sly en\gh1 t at ?is pres5t "t1 :5 
all ! /ates ar\nd  are agitat+1 n "o ^w 
comes 9 prote/ f ei!r ( ^! two  /ates1  
,h]zegov9a or ,bosnia4    ,9 ,july1     
#ahgh1 ! ,au/rian troops cross$ !       
,h]zegov9ian fronti]1  & ?is news r\s$ !
 ,mahom$an fanatics to a desp]ate ef=t4 

,on ,augu/ #bnd ! ,mahom$ans ( ,mo/>1   
believ+ !mselves betray$  by ! ,turki%  
gov]nm5t1 rose en masse1 murd]$ !       
,turki%  gov]nor & (ficials4 ,!         
,au/rians press$ =w>d1 & cru%+  "s      
ineffectual ef=ts at resi/ance1 ent]$   
,mo/> on ! #e?  ,augu/4 ,s9ce !         
completion ( ! occupation1 ! gov]nm5t ( 
!  prov9ce has be5 "u ! milit>y gov]nor 
at ,s>jevo1 controll$  by ! ,=eign      
,(fice at ,vi5na4 ,! ,sultan has1 up to 
n[1 rema9$  ! sov]eign de jure1 s t !   
pres5t decl>ation ( ,au/ria is  n likely
 to involve any alt]ation ( gov]nm5t f  
:at has gone  on all ^! la/ ?irty ye>s4 
,at ,mo/> !re is q a com=table hotel    
call$ ,hotel ,n>5ta1 )  a ,re/aurant    
atta*$1 :]e y c ord] :at y l 9 ! way  ( 
food1 )\t hav+ to sit ?r\gh a we>y      
supp]--:i* took an  h\r at ,ragusa1--&  
we f\nd ! cook+ mu* bett] too4 ,two     
ladies  c travel alone 9 ^! p>ts q well1
 if !y c speak ,italian  & ,g]man1 & at 
! ,hotels !y all speak ,engli%4 ,i h my 
guide1  ,k>abai*1 :o c>ries my sket*+   

?+s & keeps (f ! cr[d--all  ( :i* is a  
conv5i5ce1 b n a necessity s f>4        
,next day we w&]$ into ! t[n1 :i* 0 a   
mass ( mud4 ,x ra9$  at int]vals1 b we  
manag$ to see ! old t[n ) ! ,turki%     
,baza>1 :i* consi/s ( t9y %ops2 no?+ mu*
 tempt$ u to buy1  ?\gh x 0 int]e/+ to  
look at !m4 ,!re are _m little  ,mosques
 dott$ ab\t ) t9y m9>ets4 ,x 0 too wet  
to sket*1 s  memory mu/ suffice4 ,i     
?\ght ( tak+ a drive1 b ! d[np\r  began 
aft] lun*4 ,we wond]$ h[ mu* long] x    
w\ld la/66    ,! /amps ( ,h]zegov9a are 
mo/ fasc9at+ ) little views  on !m1 !y c
 be _h f ! value ( a qu>t] ( a f>?+     
upw>ds1 ea* /amp has a diff]5t view on  
x1 & !y are d\ble  ! size ( an ord9>y   
/amp1 s take up a good deal ( room on an
  envelope4    ,"h we 7 mu* impress$ by 
! wom5's unga9ly co/ume ) _!  hide\s    
baggy tr\s]s1 g5]ally ( "s black        
mat]ial1 ! :ole  ( ! upp] "p ( ! body & 
head is swa!d 9 ! f]idjeh1  & !y waddle 
along v simil> to ducks1 ! back view be+
 mo/  laughable4    ,i h pa9t$ "o 9 my  

view ( ! bridge ( ,mo/>4    ,i made !   
excursion by c>riage to ! s\rce ( !     
,buna1 ab\t eight  miles f ,mo/>2       
happily x ceas$ ra9+ & ,i 0 able to     
sket*  ! s\rce :i* wells up f ! gr\nd   
app>5tly1 b is "o ( !  curi\s riv]s ( ^!
 c\ntries :i* 9 an extraord9>y way f9d  
_! way ?r\gh a m\nta94 ,a w9dmill &     
mosque came picturesquely  into my      
=egr\nd1 & ! ri* deep blue ( ! wat] add$
 to its  *>m4    ,i 0 sorry we _h su*   
wret*$ wea!r at ,mo/>4    ,illu/ration3 
,! ,s\rce ( ! ,buna1 ne> ,mo/>4         
,illu/ration    ,ab\t sev5 o'clock next 
day ! sun came out v k9dly = our  j\rney
 to ,s>jevo1 ! capital ( ,bosnia1 & be=e
 leav+  ,mo/> we paid ano!r visit to !  
t[n1 into o!r /reets2 b !  picturesque  
ones are all ,turki%4 ,! bett] class    
wom5 we> a mo/  curi\s f]idjeh1 ) a     
bonnet atta*$ to x v l an elongat$      
,quak]'s bonnet2 no "o c see "u x1 b !y 
see out ( a *9k4  ,?is dom9o is g5]ally 
all black or d>k blue4 ,_m ( ! wom5 wore
  tr\s]s "u _! skirts1 ! latt] !y tuck$ 

up v high to  keep !m out ( ! mud4      
,go+ along 9 ! tra9 we saw _m curi\s    
h\ses & sc5es4 ,!  h\ses h all v deep   
ro(s ( wood & (t5 ! :ole h\se  is wood1 
!re are no prop] *imneys1 ! smoke com+  
out at f\r  little w9d[s 9 ! ro(4       
,pl\gh+ 0 9 full =ce1 & six ox5  are (t5
 yok$ to a pl\gh driv5 by a woman 9     
,turki% tr\s]s &  sort ( %awl ov] h]    
head2 sometimes ! tr\s]s 7 sc>let &  !  
%awl :ite1 & sometimes ! :ole co/ume    
w\ld be yell[4 ,!  little girls & boys1 
look+ aft] ! flocks ( %eep ) beautiful  
long :ite wool1 7 dress$ 9 br[n sort (  
rid+ bree*es1 ! boy  we>+ a fez & ! girl
 a k]*ief on ! head1 ! only di/9ction  (
 sex4    ,illu/ration3 ,a ,/reet 9      
,s>jevo4    ,illu/ration    ,bosnia1 !  
o!r /ate claim$ by ,au/ria1 :i* is v    
m\nta9\s1  is b\nd$ on ! s\? by ,albania
 & ,mont5egro1 ea/ by ,s]via1  nor? &   
we/ by ! ,au/rian dom9ions1 & has an    
area ( ab\t  #bd1jbd miles4 ,a l>ge     
proportion is =e/ l&1 & valuable z x    
furni%es timb] & fuel4 ,plums are l>gely

 gr[n & export$ z  prunes2 maize & :eat 
are ! pr9cipal crops1 b b>ley1 oats1    
hemp1 rice1 are gr[n2 cattle1 %eep &    
goats are pl5tiful1 &  l>ge droves (    
pigs are f$ 9 ! oak =e/s4 ,! :ole valley
 (  ! ,bosnia is said to be a coal b$1 &
 copp] is work$ 9 sev]al  places1 also  
at ,inat* is a v valuable cimmab> m9e4  
,m>ble1 too1  is f\nd & !re are sal9e   
spr+s4 ,! pr9cipal exports are  timb]1  
fruit1 cattle1 wool1 lamb-sk9s1 furs (  
wild animals1 wax  & honey4 ,ne>ly all !
 trad+ is ) ,au/ria4 ,lately sev]al     
roads h be5 made t connect "s ( !       
pr9cipal t[ns4 ,!  prov9ce is divid$    
into sev5 ,s&jaks4 ,! p are ,s]vians1 b 
pr9cipally ,mahom$ans1 z is se5 9 pass+ 
_m gravey>ds by !  side ( ! railway1    
sadly dilapidat$ spots1 ! grave/ones (  
:i*  = m5 are compos$ ( a column1 cr[n$ 
by a c>v$ turban or fez1  g5]ally toppl+
 sideways ov] 9 a melan*oly mann] &     
lean+  t[>ds ano!r column4 ,a l>ge "p ( 
! s\? has an ,albanian  population4     
,mahom$anism is n only pr$om9ant1 b (t5 

en=c$2 education is  v neglect$1 ?\gh   
!re are a good _m s*ools4    ,!         
population ( ,bosnia is ab\t #a1eib1jjj4
 ,! e>ly inhabitants 7  ,illyrians1 & = 
! fir/ "t !y are m5tion$ 9 ! hi/ory  0  
#cd ,b4,c4 ,9 ! ,roman p]iod1 ( :i* no?+
 rema9s1 & at !  end ( ! f\r? c5tury1   
,roman sway 0 ov]come by ! invasion  ( !
 ,go?s1 !n foll[$ ,croatians1 !n        
,s]vians4 ,! s\?-we/  "p became ,*ri/ian
 "u ,ju/9ian 7#ebg-efe7 & ! re/ ( x by  
,s]vian apo/les1 ,cyril & ,me?odius1    
ab\t ,a4,d4 #hhj4 ,f ,a4,d4 #idj  &     
onw>ds1 ,bosnia 0 gov]n$ by elective    
pr9ces or 8bans10 :o  aft]w>ds became   
feudatories ( ! ,hung>ian k+s4    ,9    
,a4,d4 #acgg1 ! rul+ ,ban assum$ ! title
 ,k+ ,/eph5 ,tv]tko  ,i4 ,9 ! reign ( 8 
eigh? successor1 ,/eph5 ,toma%ewit*1    
,bosnia  0 conqu]$ by ,sultan ,mahomm$  
,,ii41 ?is 0 9 #adfc4 ,9 #aebh1 !  banet
 ( ,jaice1 & 9 #aeib ! nor?-we/ "p (    
,bosnia 0 tak5 by  ,turkey1 & became !  
*ief !atre ( long w>s betwe5 ,au/ria &  
,turkey1 :i* at l5g? 7 end$ by ! peace (

 ,si/ova 9 #agia4  ,! oppressive ,turk  
left v little peace1 caus+ ! ,*ri/ians  
to revolt repeat$ly1 p>ticul>ly 9 #ahej 
& #ahge2 & 9 #ahgh1 !  ,treaty ( ,b]l9  
h&$ ,bosnia ) ,h]zegov9a ov] to !       
gov]nm5t  ( ,au/ria4 ,a great deal has  
be5 done by way ( improvem5ts1 su* z    
new roads connect+ important t[ns1 !    
railway1 also good g5d>mes  keep ord]4  
,i d n ?9k ! ,bosnian is at all         
dissatisfi$1 9 fact ,i und]/&  t at a   
l>ge meet+ at ,s>jevo ( ! ,s]vian       
,indep5d5t ,p>ty1  :i* consi/s *iefly ( 
peasants1 !y decid$ to s5d a deputation 
( sixty p]sons to ?ank ! ,emp]or (      
,au/ria = ! annexation (  ,bosnia &     
,h]zegov9a1 & to assure ,8 ,maje/y ( _! 
loyalty4  ,"o half ( ! deputation w\ld  
consi/ ( peasants1 & ! re/ (  ! cl]gy & 
t[nsm54 ,! propositions (               
,au/ria-,hung>y be+1  t ! complete      
autonomy :i* w\ld be introduc$ into     
,bosnia  & ,h]zegov9a w\ld be bas$ on ! 
?ree rul+ elem5ts ( !  population1 :i*  
mu/ receive _! prop] repres5tation 9 !  

,diet4  ,to ensure ?is free developm5t (
 ! c\ntry1 z well z religi\s  peace1 ea*
 ( ! ?ree d5om9ations w\ld elect a c]ta9
 numb]  ( deputies1 b no "o w\ld be     
oblig$ to elect a memb] ( 8 own         
p]suasion4 ,9 addition to ! ,diet1      
di/rict c\ncils w\ld also be  creat$4 ,x
 is ?\ght t ^! arrangem5ts may be c>ri$ 
out 9  ! ,spr+4    ,! *ief t[n1 ,s>jevo1
 is picturesque ) its num]\s m9>ets1  & 
!re are n9e bridges ov] its riv]1 !     
,miljavka4    ,illu/ration3 ,turki%     
,%ops1 ,s>jevo4    ,illu/ration    ,sad 
to say we f\nd ourselves v ne> ! sn[ at 
,s>jevo1 & f  ! incessant ra9 ! /reets 7
 ankle-deep 9 mud 9 ! ,baza>s4  ,we w&]$
 out 9 ! aft]noon ) our skirts n q s    
high  z ! tr\s]$ ladies1 b /ill we 7    
det]m9$ !y %\ld be  out ( ! mud4 ,(     
c\rse sket*+ & photography 7 n to  be   
?\ght (1 ! only ?+ we c\ld d 0 to patt] 
along &  see z mu* ( int]e/ z possible4 
,9 ! little %ops copp] 0  be+ beat5 into
 trays1 jugs1 a%-trays1 c(fee pots & cup
 hold]s1  also !re 7 silv] & enamel ?+s 

= sale2 ,i b\ght a c\ple  ( silv]       
hat-p9s4 ,i saw buckles1 broo*es1 /uds1 
e>r+s1 c41  all made ( silv] 9 patt]ns  
or designs c>ri$ out on ! article  =    
sale4 ,!re 7 quantities ( %oemak]s &    
saddl]s all h>d  at "w4 ,/alls ( sweet  
sell]s :o h a r\nd table on :i* to      
display _! w>es laid out 9 sections4 ,! 
lemonade sell]s &  c(fee sell]s c>ri$ _!
 jugs & glasses1 call+ z !y walk$1  v l 
,cairo4 ,p wore golo%es or patt5s (     
wood1 "s ( !  latt] ( :i* ,miss ,b4 0 v 
anxi\s to pur*ase1 b ,i r  fright5$ h]1 
say+ %e might fall on h] nose z %e 0 n  
us$  to !m1 & no d\bt !y w\ld be awkw>d 
to walk ) at fir/1 s  %e refra9$ f buy+ 
a pair4 ,we plodd$ along = "s "t1 !n    
return$ to a w>m caf1 :]e we _h delici\s
 c(fee ) beat5 up  cream1 s grateful &  
w>m+6    ,! cold at ,s>jevo 0 s great t 
,i felt v tempt$ to g  /raight to       
,budape/ & give up my t\r to ,plitvice  
aft] all4    ,x is no pleasure to be ev5
 out ( doors 9 ?is damp depress+  wea!r1
 b un=tunately ! morn+ t 0 to decide me 

broke  =? into sun%9e once m1 & ,i      
decid$ to g on4 ,no gre5 0 to  be se5 on
 any bu%es1 & ! riv]s 7 all 9 flood2    
h[ev]1 z ,i  _h a guide on purpose = ?is
 trip1 ,i want$ to g if possible4    ,my
 b$room _h su* a depress+ outlook t ,i  
ask$ to *ange x4  ,a tumbl$[n ,turki%   
hotel 0 n elevat+ to spirits ,i f\nd1 & 
beside t !re seem$ to be a g5]al rubbi% 
heap2 9 fact1 ,i _h  my d\bts z to :e!r 
x 0 heal?y1 ov]look+ su* a place4  ,?\gh
 x is always an ef=t to *ange rooms1 ,i 
made up my m9d x  mu/ be done1 & *ang$ v
 mu* = ! bett]1 mov+ into q a  new "p ( 
! hotel1 :i* 0 v sweet & clean aft] :at 
,i _h  j left4    ,! next day 0 a       
glori\s w>m "o & my spirits rose aga91 s
 ,i  decid$ to g ! orig9al excursion to 
,jajce1 & on4 ,miss ,b41 :o  did n l    
driv+ & r\gh+ x1 decid$ %e w\ld g direct
  to ,budape/1 & home by ,vi5na1 leav+  
me on ,tuesday ev5+4 ,!  j\rneys 9 ^!   
m\nta9\s regions are v long & ! tra9s   
creep v sl[ly2 ea* little j\rney 9      
di/ance s9ce we left ,ragusa  has tak5  

sev5 or eight h\rs1 b ! :ole way is     
int]e/+4    ,e>ly1 ,k>abai* & ,i w&]$ =?
 ) my cam]a1 & 9 hopes (  f9d+ a place  
to sket*1 :i* seem$ hopeless 9 !        
,baza>s1 z  ! /reets are v n>r[1 ) cr[ds
 ( p & ponies lad5  ) wood pass+ along2 
^? lad5 ) hay require ! wid? ( !  /reet 
to !mselves1 & woe betide ! pass]-by if 
he does n /ep  back into a doorway4     
,aft] lun* we w5t out to sket*1 & f\nd a
  quiet /reet :i* 0 also picturesque4   
,k>abai* 0 busy keep+ (f  ! cr[d :o _h  
8spott$0 me4 ,! boys soon discov]$      
some?+ out  ( ! ord9>y 0 go+ on1 & !    
little girls 7 made to /&  back by !    
boys1 ,i fancy1 b ,i 0 too busy to pay  
mu* att5tion1  & f9ally got a mo/       
successful sket* ) "s ,turki% ladies    
flitt+ by 9 ! picture2 ^! ,i _h to draw 
9 v hurri$ly1  z !y1 l all ,ea/]ns1     
consid] x bad luck to h a portrait      
tak51 & _m ( ! gr\ps 9 ! m>ket rapidly  
disp]s$ :5 !y  detect$ my cam]a4        
,illu/ration3 ,! ,m>ket ,place1 ,s>jevo4
    ,illu/ration    ,! p "o sees 9 ^!   

p>ts are rem>kably pla91 ?\gh _m (  ! m5
 are tall & well made1 & ( f9e physique4
 ,! ,bosnian  co/ume is v ugly1 ! wom5  
we> enorm\sly wide black tr\s]s  d[n to 
_! feet1 ^! be+ s volum9\s mu/ be mu* 9 
! way  9 wet wea!r1 & become v muddy &  
damp ab\t ! ankles4 ,!  mat]ial us$ has 
e appe>ance ( black sate54    ,aft] a   
j\rney ( sev5 h\rs f ,s>jevo1 ,k>abai* &
 ,i arriv$  at ,jajce4 ,! railway w9ds 9
 & out1 & 9 & out ( !  m\nta9s4 ,x 0 f9e
 all day until ,i w5t out to pa9t !     
wond]ful  wat]fall4 ,?is is a *>m+ old  
t[n1 full ( qua9t wood ro($  h\ses &    
mosques1 ! m9>ets are ev5 made ( wood4  
,!re seem to  be _m ,turks liv+ "h1 & 9 
^! p>ts ,i pass$ _m dilapidat$          
gravey>ds on my way1 & e village has a  
mosque or two4 ,_m (  ! wom5 are veil$2 
x mu/ be a horrid bore to h to g ab\t s 
muffl$ up1 & :at mu/ x be 9 summ]6      
,at ,jajce 9 ! old days1 ! ,k+s (       
,bosnia _h _! ca/le1 &  ! t[n 0 =tifi$ &
 surr\nd$ by walls2 ! ru9s ( walls  &   
ca/les /ill rema94 ,next morn+ 0 aga9   

wet & ,i did n g  out1 f9ally we _h a   
%ort %[]1 b aft] lun* x cle>$4 ,!       
l&lord ask$ me if ,i w\ld l to visit a  
,turki% lady4 ,( c\rse ,i  0 delight$1 &
 he accompani$ me ) ,k>abai* on ! box1  
to a  village ab\t sev5 miles (f1 :]e a 
fri5d ( 8 w\ld take me into  a ,turki%  
h\se4 ,we drove up to a 8,!ehtte0 & 7   
mu* refre%$  & w>m$ by "s delici\s      
c(fee1 !n ,i salli$ =? ) !  l&lady's    
s]vant girl z int]pret]1 to call1 z (   
c\rse !  l&lord f ,jajce c\ld n ev5     
approa* ! door/ep6 ,i c\ld only  speak  
,g]man & ! ,turki% lady ,bosnian1 s )\t 
an int]pret]  our conv]sation w\ld h be5
 v limit$4 ,x 0 ! prop] ?+  to take     
pres5ts ) y1 = ! "m & *ildr54 ,i 0 at a 
loss to "k :]e ! pres5ts 7 to be got 9 t
 t9y village1  b ! little maid took me  
to a %op1 :]e we b\ght sweets = !       
*ildr5 & a piece ( soap1 sc5t$ /rongly )
 pa*\li1 = !  lady4 ,arm$ ) ^! we arriv$
 on ! door/ep4 ,into ! h\se we  walk$   
)\t knock+--no d\bt we 7 expect$--&     
climb$ "s  v /eep /airs1 w5t along a l&+

 & ent]$ a v com=table  sitt+-room1 ) a 
divan all r\nd x4 ,!re 7 "o or two      
*airs1  b ! gr&mo!r :o came 9 to %[ "s (
 h] crot*et "w1  squatt$ on h] heels on 
! floor4 ,"o little girl ) hair ( a mo/ 
curi\s r$ came into ! room4 ,i he>d     
aft]w>ds x 0 dy$1 &  c]ta9ly ! col\r 0  
mo/ unnatural & nev] se5 9 g5u9e r$     
hair4 ,! gr&mo!r wore a wig ( ?is col\r1
 & a t9y baby ( "o  ye> also _h x4 ,i   
ask$ ab\t ?is ( ! tea h\se l&lady1 &  %e
 told me !y w dye a baby's hair ( ev5 a 
mon? old4 ,sev]al  little boys peep$ at 
me ?r\gh a crack 9 ! door1 b !y w\ld  n 
come 91 s ,i gave ! sweets to ! girl1   
:i* %e secret$  inside ! cupbo>d b$ 9 ! 
room1 & ! "m tuck$ h] soap  hurri$ly    
away some:]e ab\t h] p]son4 ,! room 0 v 
clean &  neat1 ) rugs on ! floor1 & a   
quantity ( col\r$ /uffs pil$  9 "o      
corn]4 ,a /ove pipe came ?r\gh ! floor  
to w>m x1 b  also ,i saw a curi\s /ove 9
 ! corn]1 :i* look$ z ?\gh x  0 ornam5t$
 ) bottle ends 9 cem5t ( "s k9d4 ,! "m  
_h  be5 v good-look+2 %e rem>k$ on my   

tee? ) envi\s eyes z  !y 7 all !re1 & %e
 _h lo/ a good _m ( h]s4 ,! w9d[s  ( !  
h\se 7 lattic$1 except ^? look+ on to ! 
riv]1  :]e no "o c\ld see into ! room4  
,mrs4 ,turk 0 v int]e/$ 9  my w$d+ r+1  
:i* %e propos$ to keep z a s\v5ir1 b  ,i
 express$ mu* regret t ,i c\ld n "p ) x1
 z x 0 !  ,engli% cu/om to we> our w$d+ 
r+s = ! re/ ( our lives1 &  my husb&    
might be angry if ,i gave x away4 ,no   
d\bt %e wond]$ :at  ,i 0 do+ travell+   
alone1 b %e did n ask me4 ,aft] a cup ( 
,turki% c(fee ,i left4 ,i 0 really      
highly ent]ta9$ by my visit4            
,illu/ration3 ,jaice4    ,illu/ration   
,! road runs along by ! riv] :i* has    
cat>acts & falls1 &  little mills built 
( wood1 /&+ ov] ! wat]1 ^! are rea*$  by
 a plank1 & are us$ = gr9d+ corn4 ,we   
pass$ an inl& lake on  ! way1 ! ,lake ( 
,jes]o4    ,9 ?is "p1 x is ! cu/om to   
kiss y\r h&--a p]=mance ,i  p>ticul>ly  
dislike1 & ,i n[ c>efully reta9 my      
gloves :5 ,i ?9k  x may take place4 ,x  
c't be help$1 & to draw x hurri$ly away 

w\ld cause great (f5ce4    ,next morn+ 0
 n v f9e1 b we />t$ 9 a c>riage ab\t    
#g-cj to drive to ,bajnaluka1 a n9e     
h\rs' drive4 ,on ! way1 :]e we  lun*$ & 
! horses re/$1 ! l&lord told me t ?is   
ye> !  wolves _h come d[n z l[ z 8 h\se1
 b z he _h no gun1 he _h  to wait till  
!y *ose to g away4    ,at ,bajnaluka !re
 is n mu* to see4 ,k>abai* & ,i w&]$    
ab\t  & f\nd a few ,turki% %ops & /alls4
 ,! p are hide\sly  ugly1 clo!d 9       
quantities ( rags1 s !y may be w>m4     
,a tra9 at #g a4m4 br\ght u to ,novi 7! 
end ( ! _w we call$  x74 ,"h we 7 to f9d
 a c>riage to take u to ,plitvice1 b !  
only dec5t "o refus$ to g1 & ! o!rs 7 s 
fall+ to bits  ,i 0 sure we %\ld nev]   
rea* our de/9ation1 s ,i _h reluctantly 
to give up ! exp$ition & g on to ,vi5na4
 ,_h we kn[n :at a  desolate spot ,novi 
01 we %\ld n h attempt$ to alight2 b    
un=tunately we c\ld n get on till ev5+1 
z !re 0 no tra94  ,to anyone wi%+ to    
travel 9 ^! p>ts1 ,i recomm5d !m to wait
  till ,june4 ,at ,agram ,i dismiss$ my 

guide1 & s ends my trip ?r\gh  ^!       
unfrequ5t$ p>ts4    ,"o or two little   
rem>ks ,i mu/ make be=e ,i close1 "o is 
on !  hone/y ( ! p4 ,my umbrella1 :i* is
 a valuable "o1 n only  9 keep+ (f !    
con/ant ra91 b because x has a gold duck
 on !  /ick1 :i* ,i value v mu*1 ,i     
sudd5ly miss$ "o day at ,s>jevo  :ile   
sket*+2 gett+ a sudd5 %ock z to :at _h  
become ( my  umbrella :5 ,i _h be5 deep 
9 my pa9t box1 ,i appeal$ to ,k>abai*1  
:o _h be5 keep+ (f a cr[d ( ur*9s4 8,x  
is all "r1 lady10  he expla9$1 9        
,italian1 8,i put x by t f5ce beh9d10 & 
sure  en\gh x 0 /ill !re1 ?\gh ! f5ce 0 
tw5ty y>ds beh9d me  & a l>ge cr[d 9    
betwe54 ,my luggage1 too1 0 (t5 left =  
ages  on a table 9 ! wait+-room q       
ungu>d$1 x 0 all !re on  our return4 ,i 
am afraid ,i %\ld n h su* confid5ce 9 my
 native  l&6    ,a ^w 9 praise1 too1 ,i 
mu/ add ( my guide ,k>abai*4 ,%\ld any (
  my read]s want a guide1 ,i c c]ta9ly  
recomm5d him z be+ mo/  att5tive1 ( v   
nice appe>ance & mann]s1 & ?or\ghly     

hone/4  ,he is a native ( ,pola & is a  
pilot by trade1 he also has a boat      
trad+ 9 w9e2 8 "n & ! t[n w always f9d  
him1 z he is  well kn[n !re4 ,he speaks 
,g]man1 ,italian1 & ,slav1 & possibly   
o!r languages1 b ,i did n require !m4   
,illu/ration