,,through ,,bosnia ,,and ,,herzegovina ,,with ,a ,,paint ,,brush4 ,,printed ,,and ,,published ,,by ,,william ,,dresser ,,and ,,sons1 ,,darlington4 ,illustration3 ,a ,street in ,sarjevo1 ,bosnia4 ,through ,bosnia and ,herzegovina ,with a ,paint ,brush4 ,,by ,,mrs4 ,e4 ,r4 ,,whitwell1 ,author of 8,,spain ,,as ,,we ,,found ,,it10 and 8,,through ,,corsica ,,with ,a ,,paint ,,brush40 ,,darlington3 ,,william ,,dresser ,,and ,,sons1 ,,london3 ,,simpkin ,,marshall1 ,,hamilton1 ,,kent ,,and ,,co41 ,,ld4 ,preface4 ,the following sketches and notes were originally intended as personal reminiscences of a very interesting and enjoyable holiday spent in a country somewhat out of the beaten track4 ,but changes forecasted by the authoress having become actual fact1 and the countries described assuming a prominent feature of recent international concern1 it is hoped that the production of this little volume will prove of such interest as warrants its publication beyond the circle originally intended4 ,,the ,,friarage1 ,,yarm-,,on-,,tees1 ,january1 #aiji4 ,list of ,illustrations4 ,,facing ,,page ,a ,street in ,sarjevo ,frontispiece ,evening--,abbazia #d ,after a ,storm--,abbazia #h ,the ,porta ,marina1 ,sebenico #af ,the ,cathedral ,porch1 ,tra #bd ,a ,street in ,ragusa #bh ,montenegro #cb ,cettinje #cf ,the ,market ,place1 ,cettinje #ch ,the ,fontana ,onofrio1 ,ragusa #dj ,the ,old ,bridge1 ,mostar #ej ,the ,source of the ,buna1 near ,mostar #eh ,a ,street in ,sarjevo #fj ,turkish ,shops1 ,sarjevo #fd ,the ,market ,place1 ,sarjevo #fh ,jaice #gb ,through ,,bosnia ,,herzegovina with a ,paint ,brush4 ,stirring times are these when the whole of ,europe has to give its opinion1 and ,i may say decision1 as to whether ,austria may snap up ,bosnia and ,herzegovina1 and ,bulgaria may assert her independence and style her princeling a ,tzar1 which seems crowing rather loud and savours of the bantam in the poultry yard6 ,however1 we shall see what happens in the near future2 meanwhile ,i am thinking that a very interesting tour ,i made through these provinces with my paint brush1 may be attractive to those who take an interest in other nations and other countries4 ,several books have already been written on ,dalmatia1 but ,i do not think any have been illustrated by the brush1 and ,i have seen no books on ,bosnia and ,herzegovina1 or that barren1 wild country ,montenegro1 with its range after range of rocky1 jagged mountains4 ,i have been twice in ,dalmatia1 the first time we sailed on our yacht ,vanadis from ,venice1 touching at ,pola--a stormy passage of eight hours4 ,at ,pola itself there was not much for me to see beyond a fine ,roman amphitheatre1 two gates and two temples4 ,it is the centre of the ,austrian naval base1 and was bristling with ironclads2 our ,captain elected to steam calmly in among them1 but we had soon to make a retreat1 piloted to the other side of the harbour by some ,jack ,tars1 who were each presented with a cigar for the 8entente cordiale0 of the nations4 ,from ,pola we went on to ,abbazia1 which is an ,austrian invalid watering place and1 sad to say1 was full of consumptives4 ,it is quite a pretty place1 with a ,casino1 public gardens1 and a wonderful artificial walk1 a veritable sun trap for miles by the sea4 ,on our arrival we found another yacht moored to the only buoy--there is no harbour1 so we had to drop our anchor hoping for a fine night1 which it was4 ,the next morning ,i went ashore to sketch1 and the rest of the party went in the launch to ,fiume1 which had no attraction for me4 ,a heavy thunderstorm that afternoon made the streets very wet1 but we bravely struggled to a caf and listened to the ,hungarian band1 at the same time drinking some excellent coffee with the milk nicely frothed up in a jug1 and each person had his own little tray4 ,the yacht which had secured the buoy the evening before1 had taken its departure early in the morning1 so we attached ourselves to it1 and as the ,captain remarked 8possession was nine tenths of the law10 the other yacht had the privilege of taking turn in dropping her anchor for the night4 ,some of the peasant women were very picturesque in costume1 and wore a kind of ballet skirt1 ,hessian boots1 and a red handkerchief tied round the head and floating at one side4 ,though as ,i said before1 ,i have twice been along the ,dalmatian coast1 ,i have not visited any of the most interesting islands1 and my stay at the various towns has been far too short to please me1 but it could not be avoided1 ,i was at the mercy of a yacht1 and in order to visit the principal towns in a country which possesses one small railway connecting two coast towns and one inland town1 it was necessary to allow myself to be whirled along at the pleasure of others1 who wanted not to linger brush in hand4 ,illustration3 ,evening--,abbazia ,illustration ,the history of ,dalmatia dates1 ,i think1 from the year #ahj ,b4,c41 when the tribe from which it takes its name declared their independence from ,gentius1 ,king of ,illyria1 and established a republic4 ,in #aef ,b4,c4 the ,dalmatians were attacked by the ,romans and compelled to pay tribute1 but it was not till the reign of ,augustus that their country became a ,roman province4 ,under ,tiberius1 ,dalmatia was thoroughly ,romanised1 it gave to the world the ,emperor ,diocletian1 who eventually retired to ,salona1 the new ,dalmatian capital1 where are still to be found the remains of his magnificence4 ,it then fell into several successive hands1 and in the seventh century it received the dominant element of its present population by the immigration of the ,slavs invited by ,heraclius4 ,in the ninth century the ,croatian influence was high1 and ,croatian princes were recognised as kings of ,dalmatia4 ,in the tenth century ,venice extended her power1 which is still visible in the many beautiful buildings seen all along this coast4 ,about the year #ajah the ,doge took the title of ,duke of ,dalmatia4 ,venice and ,croatia struggled hard for supremacy during the eleventh century1 and in #ajia the ,hungarians ousted the ,croatians4 ,the maritime cities of ,zara1 ,tra1 ,spalato and ,ragusa1 had each their separate history1 and attained much prosperity by commerce and industry4 ,these towns sided with ,venice and were at times under her control1 until the treatment by that great republic disgusted them and they welcomed ,louis of ,hungary4 ,venetian authority was1 however1 once more asserted1 but in #agig1 ,dalmatia became part of the ,austrian dominions to which she has belonged ever since1 with the exception of a ,napoleonic period from #ahje-ahad4 ,the ,austrians were not popular1 the feeling of the country being extremely hostile1 and in #ahfi an insurrection was put down by force of arms4 ,water in ,dalmatia is scarce1 and the only rivers are the ,krka and the ,cettina4 ,outside the towns is very little vegetation2 barley1 wheat1 maize1 oats1 rye1 millet1 beetroot1 hemp and potatoes are all grown somewhere2 coasting for miles and miles nothing is seen but pinky grey rock1 and now and then a bush1 though as you go further south vegetation becomes evident and vines are grown1 the grapes producing a full1 red wine which is much exported to ,bordeaux2 and olives1 the oil of which is also exported4 ,about eighty-nine per cent of the natives belong to the ,servian race and speak a ,slavonic dialect1 but there are a good many ,italians2 most of the natives understand ,italian ,i found4 ,the principal religion is ,roman ,catholic1 there are also those who follow the ,greek ,church4 ,the ,roman ,catholic ,archbishop has his seat at ,zara1 and ,spalato1 ,sebenico1 ,lesina and ,cattaro are ,bishoprics4 ,donkeys and goats abound1 and there are some sheep4 ,the peasant grinds his corn and weaves his clothes at home4 ,lace making is a great industry amongst ,dalmatian women1 and there is a special school at ,spalato where the most beautiful patterns taken from the ,churches are copied4 ,sponges also are found near ,sebenico4 ,anchovies and tunny fish are caught in large quantities and many other kinds of fish4 ,zara we reached on ,april #adth1 but here on this our first visit1 we discovered no harbour1 though next time we found the harbour was quite on the other side of the town4 ,as we did not relish the idea of tossing about all night on the open sea1 we decided only to stay a very short time just to visit the town and then push on to ,zara ,vecchia for the night4 ,illustration3 ,after a ,storm--,abbazia4 ,illustration ,the town looks very new from the sea1 and appears to be composed of large white modern buildings with red roofs1 one hotel1 8,the ,bristol10 looked most imposing and new1 but you must penetrate behind all this1 where you will find the old town of ,zara with its narrow streets1 with many ,roman and ,venetian remains1 of the former two large ,corinthian columns still stand1 one they say is where it was first erected4 ,a plaque of stone or marble let into a wall1 on which a most graceful figure of a dancing girl was carved1 and there was also quite a museum of statues and other relics4 ,the ,duomo1 with its beautiful faade1 is distinctly ,venetian1 and the ,lion of ,st4 ,marc watches at the gates of the town4 ,zara1 now1 is specially celebrated for its mareschino1 where are two manufacturies4 ,our large party landing caused quite a flutter amongst the inhabitants1 some of whom were most picturesque1 the women with bright red and yellow aprons1 white head shawls embroidered in many colours1 blue skirts and red stockings4 ,some of the men in blue trousers1 all rucked up the leg1 red1 gold-embroidered jackets were thrown over one shoulder1 sashes were gleaming with knives1 c41 tucked in1 and a curious tiny red cap with a black tassel crowned all4 ,this cap looks ridiculously small perched on the top of the head4 ,the country here is bare sandy rock1 with a few shrubs dotted about1 very barren all along the shore1 and on a dull day would look very dreary no doubt1 but with bright sunshine the sea is lovely1 and the range of snow-capped mountains behind make a charming background4 ,we did not land at ,zara ,vecchia1 and were off at sunrise to ,sebenico4 ,a lovely little spot is ,sebenico1 at the foot of those curious grey barren hills4 ,we landed1 and passed through a quaint doorway1 with picturesque figures going to and fro1 then went up a few steps to narrow streets--very narrow indeed1 but clean1 with many subjects for an artist1 but alas6 no time for me--only an hour or two1 and what is that6 ,we wandered about the streets and many appeals were made as to why ,i did not paint this and that--the questioners quite forgetting architectural subjects cannot be done in a minute1 like the snapshot of a camera6 ,after gazing at many fascinating bits1 ,i decided to attempt an old carved door in a narrow street1 and forthwith began1 to be distracted very shortly by two funerals passing and re-passing1 the mourners carrying each a guttering candle held at any angle and walking three abreast in the street five feet wide4 ,my easel was once swept away by a boy1 who1 like most boys1 did not look where he was going1 luckily no damage was done and ,i settled to work again1 to be three times disturbed1 ,i having to flatten myself against the wall to let the mourners pass4 ,i worked hard till dusk1 then returned to the yacht4 ,i thought it a great pity we could not stay a few days at ,sebenico1 but on we rushed1 and ,i must go too this time4 ,i longed to stay and put all ,i saw on paper1 of all this beautiful curious scenery1 and at some future date1 ,i hoped to be able to dawdle along this coast at my own sweet will4 ,one of our party bought a most curious knife from a very handsome native1 who showed the purchaser its various uses--the knife was used to eat with1 and shave with1 c41 c41 the double pronged stiletto1 which occupied the same sheath1 was to dig into an enemy4 ,this was about a foot long4 ,these the natives carry tucked into their belts4 ,the ,cathedral is very fine1 ,old ,venetian1 and had many fascinating corners for the artist4 ,after lunch we went up a serpentine gorge1 so narrow1 that every moment it seemed to come to an end4 ,the sides were pinky-grey hills1 barren except for a few shrubs1 the whole colouring was most curious1 the sea bright blue-green1 contrasting with the rocky sides4 ,a special pilot came on board for this cruise1 and he nearly ran us into some rocks1 not calculating how much room we took to turn the corners4 ,when we arrived at the furthest limit that the yacht could go1 we took to the launch1 and approached the ,falls of ,krka1 where the water comes down in tiers1 very fine4 ,here electric light is being made4 ,we walked up to a height for a view looking back1 which was most extraordinary1 the pinky-grey hills1 with one long strip of winding emerald green water between4 ,my second visit to ,sebenico was under more favourable circumstances1 as ,i decided to leave the yacht and put up at the ,hotel ,krka with my courier4 ,la1 ,la6 the cold on this my second visit1 but charmed am ,i to be here once more at this most fascinating little place1 ,sebenico1 this time to stay a few days1 but oh6 the cold66 ,i have never felt anything like it in ,england1 the north-east wind1 the ,bora 7the wind of the dead7 is blowing4 ,i imagine it comes off the steppes of ,russia1 from its intense piercing coldness4 ,the sun is nice and warm1 if you can get out of the wind which rises very decidedly every afternoon4 ,i landed from the yacht in the morning1 escorted by my guide4 ,an elaborate programme was made out1 and it was intended we should travel through ,herzegovina and ,bosnia1 visiting ,jajce1 ,bajnaluka1 ,bihac 7pronounced ,beehatch71 ,novi1 and ,plitvice1 where are wonderful lakes and cascades in continuation from one to the other4 ,part of the journey we carried out1 but not all1 as will be seen later on4 ,at ,sebenico1 they talk ,italian and ,slav2 ,italian made me quite happy as it enabled me to converse with the natives4 ,the national costumes here are most fascinating1 lovely brilliant colouring mixed in the women's head-gear and shawls1 and some of the contadine that come in1 with dark blue dresses striped with red1 green and orange1 and embroideries of every hue1 are most striking4 ,the men1 too1 dress very smartly1 and finish off their costumes with very large silver buttons4 ,i took a room at the ,hotel ,krka2 the rooms are quite nice1 but the ,restaurant rather dirty4 ,the landlady wanted to ask me fourteen krones as pension--rather a lot for this out of the way place1 but as ,i came off a yacht1 ,i am1 no doubt1 expected to pay accordingly2 however1 ,i decided to take my room1 and then have my meals la carte1 and by this means ,i exactly halved the pension terms4 ,my first meal was composed of soup1 veal1 salad and cheese4 ,i had not intended to have soup1 as ,i ordered spagetti1 which ,i naturally thought would be macaroni and tomato sauce1 and was disgusted to find it the name of a soup4 ,wine was given free1 and all the other customers seemed to drink it1 but ,i found it horribly bitter1 and to take off the taste ,i allowed myself a mareschino--the only part of my lunch ,i enjoyed6 ,at night ,i had macaroni in pieces three-quarters of a yard long1 these ,i found most difficult to negotiate1 as when ,i twirled it round my fork1 and was about to put it in my mouth1 the whole thing flew off like a spring4 ,i think it took me twenty minutes to tackle this dish4 ,illustration3 ,the ,porta ,marina1 ,sebenico4 ,illustration ,the streets here are very quaint1 as the town is built on the hill side1 there are a great many steps4 ,at the entrance to the town1 near the ,quay1 is a beautiful gateway which ,i tried to draw1 but the intense cold and wind soon sent me away4 ,the ,cathedral has fine doors east and north4 ,my guide and ,i wandered about the town looking for paintable spots of which there are many1 we went into the gardens where is a statue to ,tommaseo 7the author71 and in a fountain ,i saw a fat goldfish who seemed to look at me out of the corner of his eye1 in surprise at a stranger4 ,there are many remains of old ,venetian days1 in old doorways and on beautiful carvings1 and ,i came across a fine lion of ,st4 ,mark let into the wall of a building3 very old columns1 ,roman1 are used as corner stones to many of the houses4 ,the streets are very narrow and the houses high4 ,may here would be a charming month1 but the end of ,march is far too early4 ,my guide and ,i sat in the gardens for awhile in the sun1 but the wind sent us indoors1 it rose so high and the dust blew in clouds4 ,i told my guide to come early next morning if it was fine and warmer1 but the piercing wind still prevailed1 so we waited till nine1 and ,i drew the pretty view from my window4 ,i was longing to draw the gate which ,i had kept in view from my earlier trip down this coast and for which particular reason ,i came to ,sebenico1 however we had no luck1 and again ,i could do nothing but wander in the streets4 ,i saw some wonderful ,easter offerings1 chickens made of a sort of yellow bread1 with two red paste eggs reposing in their breasts1 one cock's feather in the tail and another in the head4 ,i took a few photographs of the fruit market1 but the non-picturesque people were very tiresome1 coming immediately in front of my camera at the most critical moment4 ,one man's waistcoat was covered with embroidery and masses of silver buttons in clusters down the front and others at the sides2 they were very handsome buttons1 large1 round1 and filagreed1 and others were flat4 ,those ,i have on my coat were a source of great interest1 and as the natives talk ,italian1 they were a subject of much conversation between them and myself4 ,the bread market is very quaint1 rows and rows of long loaves of bread1 which my guide says is sold very cheap to the poor people4 ,the vegetable market is close to the bread market1 but vegetables are few just now2 where anything green came from ,i was at a loss to know1 as a fresh blade of grass even was nowhere to be seen1 all is bare rock and thoroughly winterly in appearance4 ,on the second day ,i sallied forth to paint my gate at #ab-cj1 so as to sit in the sun and avoid the crowd of natives who had gone to their mid-day meal1 and luckily did not seem in any hurry to come out after it4 ,on account of the cold ,i left early next day1 instead of by the evening train4 ,there are only two trains1 so ,i decided to leave by the #g-bj a4m4 ,i had hoped to be able to go to ,knin1 but we found it took too long for me to reach the yacht in time4 ,of course1 as usual1 we arrived ages too soon at the station4 ,a small boy carried most of my luggage and my guide the rest4 ,the station was about a mile from the hotel1 there are no carriages in the town1 so walking is compulsory4 ,the train was already in the station1 and ,i naturally wanted to get into it1 but ,i was waved back by an official1 and was told ,i must wait till the appointed time4 ,at ,petrovic we changed trains1 and ,i had time to sketch one or two natives1 the woman wore very thick dark blue cloth with stripes of red applique1 and green and orange pipings and strappings1 with patches of wool embroidery at intervals1 and an apron of many colours1 edged with a hair fringe2 her head was covered by a white embroidered cotton kerchief4 ,also a fine old man made an imposing figure with his long brown coat1 blue trousers hooked tightly at the ankle1 his many coloured embroidered waistcoat and his silver buttons1 and wide leather belt1 in which were tucked weapons and pipes4 ,he was smoking a long wooden pipe1 holding the bowl in his hand1 chatting to me while ,i was sketching him4 ,we came along the most arid country1 all stones1 but lots of vines were growing apparently out of the stones1 as ,i could see hardly any soil about them2 in some parts there was more soil1 and on the hillsides patches of earth for vineyards4 ,the railway winds in and out of the hills which are grey1 and the only bit of colour to be seen was in the costumes of the peasants1 which was an agreeable relief from the great monotony of stone4 ,men and women were very busy digging and attending to the vines4 ,we passed ,tra and ,salona at some distance1 at the latter are many ,roman remains1 which are beautifully situated over the bay4 ,salona was once the capital of ,roman ,dalmatia and had a naval harbour1 its massive walls were washed by the sea in those days1 but now it has receded far from the ruins4 ,in the ,roman ,civil ,war1 ,salona adhered to ,csar1 and was besieged by ,octavius1 ,pompey's general4 ,much excavation is still going on1 and the chief relics are removed to the ,museum at ,spalato4 ,diocletian had a beautiful palace overlooking this bay1 which covered nine and a half acres in extent4 ,diocletian was born near ,ragusa4 ,this little railway ends at ,spalato1 where we once more joined the yacht4 ,spalato is picturesquely encircled by lofty hills and lies in a fertile region on a peninsula4 ,the town owes its name to a great palace 7palatium7 of ,diocletian1 within the precincts of which a great part of the old town is built4 ,the palace formed a little world of its own1 with temples1 baths1 c41 of which the principal remains are more or less built over1 as for instance the ,cathedral piazza1 once the peristyle1 has twelve ,corinthian columns1 some of which are built into the houses1 while the south end is occupied by an imposing vestibule with four columns of red granite4 ,this vestibule once led to the private state apartments and from it opens a ,rotunda4 ,the ,cathedral1 a fine edifice1 enclosed by a dilapidated colonnade 7originally the ,mausoleum of ,diocletian7 is now dedicated to the ,virgin and ,st4 ,diomo4 ,in the interior are eight columns1 twenty-three feet high1 bearing an ambulatory1 on which stand eight columns which were once crowned by statues4 ,between these columns at the top is a frieze with hunting scenes1 portraits1 and various other figures4 ,the pulpit and choir-stalls are also ,romanesque3 the columns of the former with their capitols are very fine4 ,the ,baptistery was supposed to have been the private temple of ,diocletian1 dedicated to ,jupiter4 ,the ,porta ,aurea is on the north and is the palace gate facing the land4 ,this gate is most imposing and impressive1 no doubt because it has not been mixed up with modern buildings1 so you get a clear view of it4 ,happily for me while at ,spalato something went wrong with the yacht's boiler1 this much refreshed me by its kindness1 and ,i decided to take a little jaunt of my own to ,tra1 a town we had passed on our way1 so to ,tra ,i went1 accompanied by the old courier ,angelos4 ,we chartered a carriage and drove to this dear little place with a lovely old ,venetian ,cathedral4 ,at ,spalato we had a thunderstorm1 and the weather still looked threatening1 so after seeing the sights of ,tra1 ,i settled down to work on the old ,venetian gate of the town4 ,i had only time to draw it that evening and hoped to return next day1 as we had to stay the night at ,tra1 but alas6 it rained hard all night1 and ,i was wondering if ,i should rise at day-break or not1 when ,i suddenly remembered the door and covered-in porch of the ,cathedral4 ,to this ,i started off in a downpour1 but found ,i could sit comfortably inside the porch1 and there old ,angelos found me in due course1 hard at work1 and there ,i sat till lunch time4 ,illustration3 ,the ,cathedral ,porch1 ,tra4 ,illustration ,in the afternoon it cleared1 and ,i went on painting the gate1 but the wind blew my sketch twice off the easel1 so ,i had to give it up and ordered the carriage to return to ,spalato4 ,two ruffianly looking youths clad in brown coats with hoods acted as coachman and footman4 ,when we reached the octroi1 they had to throw back their coats for inspection underneath2 as it was raining and the hood was up1 the douanier proceeded to examine the inside of the carriage1 and found old ,angelos and myself1 at which he saluted respectfully and waved us on4 ,i found the family also anxious to visit ,tra1 and next morning we all returned by sea1 so much the better for my gate6 ,the drive is quite pretty1 and it was a treat to see green once more4 ,on the way ,i passed seven villages all called ,castello something1 as ,castelvecchio1 ,castelnuovo1 c41 relics of old feudal times1 there being a castle in the centre of each village with houses all round it4 ,i longed to visit each1 but had no time4 ,the men's costumes are very striking1 blue trousers open at the back of the ankle to ten inches from the shoe--a string sandal--little brass hooks and eyes to fasten them when required1 red sashes and tabs at the waist1 the sash in which the usual weapon reposes1 brown jacket with crimson velvet slashes and fringe ornamenting the front1 piped with crimson all round1 a waistcoat of red velvet with silver buttons1 and the scarlet cap crowns all4 ,the women look well in dark blue1 with a red band round the bottom of the skirt1 coloured handkerchiefs on their heads2 some wore long blue coats piped with red and red bands embroidered down the sides1 a sort of stocking-shoe embroidered in many colours and an apron of red and yellow4 ,the landlord at ,tra was surprised and pleased to see me again for my frugal lunch of fried eggs1 ,parmesan cheese and radishes2 the yacht had anchored so far out1 ,i could not go back to it4 ,i finished my work in hand1 and then tried to draw the attention of someone on the yacht1 but it was no use1 so ,i had to hire a boat from shore4 ,it was twelve hours run from ,spalato to ,gravosa 7the harbour of ,ragusa74 ,we came past the islands of ,lesina1 ,lissa1 ,curzola1 and ,sabioncello1 and down the ,canale di ,melita4 ,we thought of calling at the town of ,curzola1 which is well worth a visit1 but as it was blowing hard1 we deemed it wiser to push on4 ,we reached ,ragusa next morning after a rolling night1 and anchored opposite the town2 but there was such a roll on1 ,i was sure that none but the best sailors would come to breakfast1 so we moved into the port of ,gravosa1 two miles away4 ,mr4 ,t4 and ,i walked to the town1 he1 poor man1 politely carrying my satchel4 ,on the way we passed many villas4 ,the old town is entered by a charming old gate1 called ,porta ,pille2 old walls surround the town1 which is also a fortress4 ,directly you enter the gate a quaint fountain meets your gaze1 and many figures in costumes are grouped about it4 ,we wandered on down the principal street of shops1 in many of which were collections of curiosities1 embroideries1 bags1 belts1 swords1 old inlaid mother-of-pearl stocked guns1 c41 the belts of enormous weight were studded with agates1 and were said to have been worn by the women4 ,narrow streets1 with innumerable steps1 branched off from the main street2 several churches and two monasteries1 the ,franciscan with a charming old courtyard4 ,illustration3 ,a ,street in ,ragusa ,illustration ,the ,rector's ,palace had a fine portico2 these were among the things we saw1 but ,i have no doubt that there were many others we did not see of equal interest1 as my attention was rivetted on one of the steep side streets1 bright with all kinds of coloured clothing strung across it4 ,i had hardly started work1 when down came the rain in torrents4 ,i sent old ,angelos off for a carriage while ,i took refuge in a doorway1 and ,i generously gave the old courier my umbrella as he had none4 ,after waiting a long time and getting in despair of his ever returning1 ,i suddenly heard his voice round a corner1 so ,i ran4 ,why he took so long was1 that he had quite forgotten where he had left me6 ,some of the others reached the quay at the same time as ,i did2 the rain coming down in sheets made it very difficult to get on board1 and the dingey was simply a large pool of water4 ,in the afternoon we went in the launch up the river of the ,val d' ,ombra1 as we were told it was a very nice excursion2 the country was very ugly1 but the water at the fall seemed to bubble up from the ground1 coming through1 not down the mountain1 when it had disappeared entirely for nineteen miles4 ,on ,april #bjth we left ,gravosa for ,cattaro4 ,there is not much to see in the town there1 but the market was most fascinating1 peasants in costume from all parts1 ,brda1 or ,montenegro1 c41 c4 ,the ,montenegrins are a very good looking fine race4 ,the women part the hair in the middle1 and wear enormously thick plaits of hair round the head1 a black shawl in cold weather for the married women and a little cap for the girls1 embroidered on the crown with ,i4,h4 7,nichola ,i471 a long white sleeveless coat1 a blue or red zouave of velvet1 beautifully embroidered in gold1 ordinary skirt and apron1 and shoes of calf skin with string tops and straps1 a sock with a border of red and blue is worn over the stocking4 ,the men wear the little round cap1 the sleeveless white coat1 and red waistcoat embroidered in black and silver buttons1 wide1 bright blue pantaloons1 and a sash and leathern pocket in which the revolver rests--these latter they always wear1 except on market days at ,cattaro1 where all firearms have to be left behind4 ,they 7men and women7 are splendid specimens of humanity1 every man a soldier and a gentleman1 with a fine carriage and a most dignified manner2 they salute or bow1 often both4 ,in the afternoon1 ,angelos and ,i started off in a carriage to drive to ,cettinje1 the capital of ,montenegro1 where ,i stayed the night4 ,the road zig-zags up the mountain side all the way from ,cattaro to a ,col1 then zig-zags down on the other side to ,cettinje1 which lies nestling at the foot of steep hills and at the end of a cultivated valley4 ,the road was in a state of repair1 and was a mass of stones all the way1 which made the drive of seven hours very tiring4 ,the scenery is very grand and rugged1 the mountains pinky grey in colour1 with very little green at the commencement of the ascent even1 and these are chiefly shrubs2 then this green ends1 and is entirely left behind1 and the mountains stand out in all their ruggedness1 with an occasional patch of snow still left by the road side at the end of ,april4 ,there is very little soil except in the valleys1 and these are old lake basins4 ,every bit of soil is used in cultivation4 ,for miles and miles there is nothing to be seen but rugged1 jagged rock4 ,on our way we passed a few thatched cottages1 and stopped to bait the horses at the only village on the road1 called ,njegus1 which is a short distance over the frontier4 ,in this village the house is shown where ,prince ,nichola was born4 ,while waiting here1 ,i had a frugal meal of eggs1 bread and wine1 and ,i made a sketch of a very fine looking young man1 much to his amusement and gratification1 as he seemed quite pleased with his appearance on paper4 ,several other good looking young men came to criticise1 some spoke a little ,italian but most of them ,slav1 ,i suppose1 as they are the descendants of the old nobility of the ,servian ,empire1 who fled to the ,black ,mountains to escape ,turkish oppression1 and who maintained their liberty and independence against all comers for more than five centuries4 ,illustration3 ,montenegro4 ,illustration ,a blind musician came to play while ,i was lunching1 his instrument had one string only1 which is usual in this country2 but it was as sweet and melodious as though it had many strings4 ,the aspect of the scenery was much the same until we reached the ,col1 but when there the view was grand in the extreme4 ,range after range of rocky1 jagged mountains1 the lake of ,scutari in the dim distance and the ,albanian mountains in snow behind1 and a pinky glow from the setting sun enhanced the view4 ,here we paused a few moments1 then began to descend to ,cettinje1 which we reached after driving for some hours4 ,before going further1 ,i will say a little about ,montenegro1 which in extent is about half the size of ,wales4 ,there are a few small towns dotted about1 the capital is ,cettinje1 and the only town ,i visited4 ,the seaport town is ,dulcigno1 on the ,adriatic2 the whole country is very mountainous and there are several small lakes1 the principal one is ,scutari1 of which half belongs to ,montenegro and the other half to ,albania4 ,if ,i had had time1 ,i should have much liked to have driven to ,lake ,scutari1 but it would have taken a whole day to go there and back from ,cettinje1 so ,i had to give it up4 ,the ,montenegrins are such delightful people1 that ,i believe you can go anywhere in their country and feel perfectly safe1 they are particularly hospitable to strangers4 ,in the time of war with ,turkey1 the ,turkish women and children fled into ,montenegro1 knowing they would be perfectly safe from insult of any kind in the enemy's territory4 ,there is but little farming land in ,montenegro1 the peasant is glad to enclose the tiniest patch of fertile soil retained by the hollows in the mountain sides4 ,the largest land proprietor is the owner of sixty acres1 and other freehold estates vary from two to twenty acres1 and it is usually not to the individual1 but to the family that this ownership belongs4 ,the history of ,montenegro from the earliest times to the ,turkish ,war of #ahgg1 is one of incessant wars and raids1 throughout the whole of which the country has preserved its independence1 even when ,turkish power was spread over the whole of south-eastern ,europe4 ,the accession of the present dynasty dates from #afhg4 ,prince ,nichola 7the reigning ,prince and father of the ,queen of ,italy7 conducted a successful war against ,turkey2 he is a dramatist1 and also introduced a new code of laws4 ,bears and wolves are still to be found in the highest forests4 ,cettinje has a population of about #a1cjj people1 the houses are whitewashed1 with red roofs4 ,the whole town is very clean in appearance4 ,it has a broad main street1 crossed by smaller streets4 ,in the main street are the houses of the foreign representatives4 ,in the square is the palace of the ,prince ,nichola1 unpretentious in appearance and only distinguishable by the guard in front of it4 ,the ,prince still administers open-air justice before his palace1 though lately the large tree under which he sat has fallen1 ,i believe4 ,illustration3 ,cettinje4 ,not far off is the palace of ,prince ,danilo1 his son1 the hall of the senate being on the ground floor4 ,the ,ministry1 the ,court of ,justice1 and the prison are adjacent1 and opposite the ,ministry is the ,monastery1 in whose church the ancestors of the reigning house are buried4 ,above the ,monastery rises a round tower1 which until lately was adorned by ,turkish skulls4 ,near the ,monastery is the ,museum in which are many torn standards1 arms1 medals1 etc41 etc4 ,montenegro has a standing army1 in which every able-bodied man serves for a term of four months at a time4 ,the ,montenegrins are as fine soldiers as can be found1 and the ,prince takes the keenest interest in his army and his people4 ,every morning he rides over to the square1 where his subjects await him bare-headed4 ,he signs one to his side1 who1 after kissing his hand1 walks along by the side of his horse as far as the barracks1 the ,prince meanwhile discussing and questioning him as to his family affairs1 or crops1 c4 ,at the barracks the ,prince watches the drilling1 chats with his officers1 and inspects the building1 after which he will often visit the ,law ,courts and superintend affairs4 ,his people reverence him1 and look upon him as their father in more than name4 ,i stayed at a comfortable hotel1 and next morning ,angelos and ,i wandered about the streets1 starting at #f a4m4 and visiting several shops1 as ,i was particularly anxious to buy one of the pretty costumes1 which are so becoming1 and would make such a charming fancy dress2 the shoes were tiresome to get1 as ,i did not fancy the calf-skin ones which ,i was told ,i must soak to soften1 these ,i scorned1 and at last found a very smart pair with leather soles and ornamented string tops4 ,as ,i had to get back to the yacht and wanted to do some sketching on the way1 and was tired of wandering about on foot1 we started on our return journey to ,cattaro at #i-cj1 and it was with much regret that ,i left these charming people and their country4 ,illustration3 ,the ,market ,place1 ,cettinje4 ,about half-way ,i paused to sketch1 it was bitterly cold1 and by the time ,i had finished could hardly feel my fingers4 ,the horses had been taken out of the carriage and ,i had lunch to warm me up2 it was composed of eggs fried in rancid oil--very nasty6 but the bread was of excellent rye4 ,the rest of our party passed us on their way to ,cettinje1 which they intended to visit and return in the same day4 ,soon the wind rose and came in gusts at every zig-zag going down the mountain side2 ,i did not envy the others who could not reach the yacht again till ten o'clock4 ,the evening was very stormy1 we thought of their terrible drive in the dark1 and were on the look out all the evening for them4 ,about eight we saw two lights on the mountain slowly descending1 so we were sure it must be our travellers1 who arrived safe and sound about #aj-cj1 very tired1 and one driver was drunk1 so those in the carriage walked eight miles rather than drive4 ,a stormy1 wild coast is this1 warm in the valleys but bitterly cold in the mountains1 and a good deal of snow still at the end of ,april4 ,after ,montenegro ,i decided to return once more to ,ragusa--that fine old fortress town--with ,miss ,b41 so we bade farewell to the yacht and retraced our steps once more1 and from there we travelled through ,herzegovina and ,bosnia4 ,here a new guide met me from ,pola1 strongly recommended by a friend of ours there1 and he proved a great success1 by name ,karabaich4 ,miss ,b4 and ,i found ourselves at a very comfortable hotel--,the ,imperial--where we stayed a week in this delightful old town surrounded by walls and fortresses4 ,illustration3 ,the ,fontana ,onofrio1 ,ragusa4 ,illustration ,ragusa lies at the foot of ,monte ,serjio1 and is built on its steep slopes4 ,down to #ahje it was an independent republic1 but was annexed by ,napoleon1 and later in #ahad by ,austria4 ,we enter the town from ,gravosa by the ,porta ,pille1 where in the niche over the gateway is the statue of ,st4 ,biagio1 the patron saint of the town1 which is entirely surrounded by enormously thick walls1 on which it is permitted to walk by an order from the commandant's office2 but we found greater attractions4 ,on passing through ,porta ,pille you enter the long wide street called the ,corso1 and here on ,sundays they run races1 one of which we saw1 two men were running backwards and forwards for four miles4 ,the ,corso extends from one end of the town to the other1 and is flanked by the principal shops and some of the ,churches4 ,on the right1 near the gate1 is the large fountain called ,onofrio1 which was built in #adgc1 and here many picturesque figures come to draw water4 ,to the left is the ,franciscan ,church1 with its fine cloisters and its ,gothic portal4 ,rather lower down the street on the opposite side is the ,servian ,church1 at the east end of the ,corso1 in a square1 is the ,church of ,st4 ,biagio4 ,on the left is the custom house1 formerly the mint4 ,this was built in the ,venetian style1 about #aebj1 and is adorned with a statue of ,st4 ,biagio1 it has also a handsome courtyard4 ,near1 is the clock tower and the guard house with an old fountain4 ,then comes the ,palazzo ,comunale and the ,museum4 ,the ,rector's ,palace with its fine colonnade is most striking1 and passing through the doorway is a beautiful courtyard surrounded by pillars1 and a noble marble staircase possibly dating from the fifteenth century1 but recently restored4 ,walking further on you come to the ,cathedral1 built in the seventeenth century4 ,from here we pass on to the market place1 which has a beautiful old ,venetian door2 there one day ,i sketched under difficulties1 with a curious crowd and a tearing wind1 which whirled the dust round and round over me and my easel1 in a very aggravating manner4 ,returning whence we came1 we walked along to the clock tower1 which we passed under1 and immediately to our left was the ,dominican ,monastery1 up several flights of steps4 ,my first day was spent in shopping and sight-seeing1 the former consisted of buying some of the beautiful gold embroideries4 ,i found what ,i think will make a beautiful dinner gown1 the coat is embroidered nearly all over with the most exquisite gold embroidery2 this coat is sleeveless1 but belonging to it are sleeves which are also a mass of embroidery1 these are cut perfectly straight1 so impossible to wear1 but ,i think they can be adapted by wearing them outside others and allowed to fall loose4 ,i also bought a gold embroidered man's waistcoat which makes a very smart trimming for a coat1 or could be used for a winter gown4 ,i found some old silver pins for hats1 and a quaint jug which has a secret how to drink out of it without spilling the wine4 ,it is very old1 the wine comes up the handle1 round the top of the jug to the lip1 in which is a hole to drink1 all the top of the jug is perforated1 so it is necessary to know the secret to avoid spilling the wine4 ,i added many other things to my collection and sent them on to the yacht to be brought home4 ,these shops are too fascinating for words1 there are so many things you can't get at ,liberty's1 wonderful to relate4 ,there are quantities of old firearms for sale1 old guns with inlaid stocks1 pistols of all sizes and shapes1 c41 c4 ,the place was full of visitors speaking in ,german tongue1 but we saw no ,english1 or even the ever present ,american4 ,there are many old buildings worth visiting1 and the streets are very quaint and picturesque1 also very narrow1 stretching up the hillsides2 one wide long street down the centre of the town1 where the principal shops are to be found4 ,friday and ,saturday mornings ,i spent in painting the cloisters of the ,dominican ,monastery1 and ,i persuaded one of the young monks to pose for me1 sitting near the well4 ,in the afternoon ,miss ,b4 and ,i walked about the quaint old streets and saw many attractive bits for the brush1 and then had coffee at a caf and sat on the terrace1 but the wind was cold1 as we were not in the sun which is hot4 ,certainly the weather as to the intense cold had somewhat improved1 and we found it unnecessary to wear so many coats and woolly things as before1 which was a blessing4 ,the peasants were very picturesque1 and there is a great variety of costume both in men and women1 some of course very shabby1 and one wonders how their rags hold together4 ,all these towns are wonderfully clean and about here all the people look clean1 though they may be very ragged4 ,the monks at the monastery were very interested in my work1 and crowded on to the balcony above me1 chattering like magpies4 ,sunday1 ,i went to high ,mass1 and in the afternoon took a carriage to drive to ,san ,giacomo1 a disused monastery4 ,karabaich sat on the box with my sketching materials4 ,carriages are horribly expensive1 at the rate of about two shillings a mile4 ,unfortunately we took it for granted that we could get on to the terrace1 and allowed the carriage to go away with instructions to return in three hours4 ,alas6 the doors were all locked1 and though we found out where the custodian lived1 he had gone to the town1 so as it was not very far to walk to the ,villa ,adrian1 ,karabaich and ,i decided to look at it on our way back on foot1 as we could not spend three hours doing nothing by the wayside4 ,the ,villa ,adrian is a pension1 a charming situation with several terraces down to the sea2 all is quite new except some of the columns used in the pergolas4 ,i made various enquiries about the pension1 but was not pleased with the idea of always schinken 7ham7 for supper1 and the rooms ,i saw did not impress me favourably either4 ,in ten years' time the garden will be lovely1 no doubt1 and in the summer when the leaves are out it must now be quite nice4 ,the next day we went to the much talked of ,island of ,lacroma1 to which a small launch conveys you1 and you pay the sum of two krones to go and return1 and another krone to the solitary ,dominican monk who inhabits the island4 ,lacroma used to belong to the ,emperor ,maximilian1 and then to ,prince ,rudolf1 but it was then considered so unlucky that the ,emperor handed it over to the ,dominicans4 ,i asked the monk if he had seen any ghosts1 at which he was much amused4 ,part of the ,monastery can be wandered over1 and the gardens would be charming if well planted with flowers4 ,these gardens1 of which there are several1 are surrounded by high hedges1 and box borders enough to delight any one4 ,the rooms of the monastery are bare1 but over each bedroom door is a rhyme in ,german1 such as3-- 8,freund in der ,droth ,freund in der ,todt ,freund hintern ,rcken ,das sind drei starke ,brcken10 and another 8,schweig und ,meig ,werk und ,leid ,jedes ,ding hat seine ,zeit40 and so on over each door4 ,i saw many prints of ,queen ,victoria1 ,prince ,albert1 and other ,royalties1 also several engravings of old ,english pictures by famous artists4 ,the island is itself covered with small fir and cypress trees1 and has many shady walks4 ,we had some time to wait for the return launch1 and amused ourselves by sketching the monk2 ,miss ,b4 took a photo of him and promised him a copy4 ,on our return the town was gay with people of all nationalities and costumes to see a great race being run down the principal street1 by two men who ran for an hour and a half without stopping4 ,i sat at the caf and sketched some of the people4 ,after dinner there was nothing to be done or to see in the town1 and as the drawing-rooms soon became very stuffy1 ,i went off to my room after supper4 ,one afternoon while we were amusing ourselves by turning over1 and ,i am afraid purchasing1 some of the fascinating goods in one of the shops1 we found a bridegroom making purchases for his bride elect1 who was attended by her mother and aunt as chaperones4 ,both bride and bridegroom came from the ,canali district1 where the women wear a very charming costume of bright colours4 ,on the head is a little red and gold embroidered cap1 over it a white embroidered accordian pleated handkerchief1 embroidered vest and bolero1 with tassels of gold coloured silk on sleeves and bodice1 a white apron with a deep embroidered hem1 probably a bright blue accordian pleated skirt with a border of some other colour4 ,about the bodice and waist are many ribbons as ornament1 and a sash of many colours round the waist4 ,we saw a good many so dressed on ,easter ,sunday in the town4 ,on ,april #dth we left ,ragusa in drenching rain1 which began the day before and continued all the journey to ,mostar1 but was happily fine after our arrival about #g-cj4 ,this is a journey of eight hours through the mountains of rugged grey stone4 ,the railway goes up a great height and winds in and out of the hills1 the view is more grand than beautiful4 ,the train stops at many little stations for the sole reason of allowing the travellers to have drinks1 we concluded1 as at many places we stayed ten minutes for apparently no reason except that we saw the travellers flocking into a bar4 ,illustration3 ,the ,old ,bridge1 ,mostar4 ,illustration ,herzegovina1 since #ahgh1 has been under the titular dominion of the ,turkish ,sultan1 but the administration of ,austria-,hungary4 ,it is bounded on the north and east by ,bosnia1 south by ,montenegro1 and west by ,dalmatia1 and only just touches the ,adriatic at ,sutterina4 ,some districts1 those of ,niksich and ,domitor1 have been placed by the ,treaty of ,berlin under the ,government of the ,prince of ,montenegro4 ,the greater part of the population belong to the ,greek ,church4 ,then come about #gj1jjj ,mohamedans1 some ,roman ,catholics1 ,jews1 and ,gipsies4 ,the ,mahomedan population are those that strike the eye most1 probably because of the men's picturesque dress1 and the bazaars which one makes a point of visiting4 ,the people live chiefly in hamlets1 and there are only about five towns2 the capital of ,herzegovina is ,mostar4 ,over the river ,narenta1 at ,mostar1 is a fine old ,roman bridge which connects two parts of the town4 ,the river ,narenta is the principal river1 and along its valley lies the most cultivation1 olives1 mulberries1 figs1 melons1 grapes1 rice1 and maize are grown4 ,in some places there are forests of beech and pine4 ,many of the mountains reach to a height of #h1ejj feet near the ,montenegrin frontier4 ,there are many sheep and goats1 out of the wool of which the long white thick coats are made that you see hanging at shop doors in the hamlets all the way to ,mostar4 ,there is a high road from ,serjevo in ,bosnia1 through ,herzegovina to the ,adriatic4 ,we visited these parts in ,april1 but it was far too early for comfort1 and ,i should not recommend anyone to attempt it before ,june4 ,herzegovina seems to have changed hands many times within the last #djj years1 at one time belonging to ,hungary1 and then to ,bosnia1 then ,turkey conquered it2 earlier1 too1 the ,venetians seemed to have a look in4 ,of its history under the ,turks there seems to be no particular records4 ,feudalism1 under ,mahomedan guise continued to survive here4 ,the ,spahis1 begs1 or agas1 were medival lords who had apostatized to ,islam4 ,they kept their ancestral castles1 banners and title deeds1 and patents of nobility4 ,they enacted feudal service from their serfs and retainers4 ,one of these ,mahomedan nobles1 ,ali1 ,aga of ,stolac1 did such good service for the ,sultan in his struggle with the ,bosnian magnates1 that he was made ,vizier of ,herzegovina1 which was freed for a while from ,bosnian government4 ,the reform of ,sultan ,mahmoud did not by any means remove the grievances of the population of ,herzegovina4 ,the serfs had now to satisfy the extortion of imperial excisement as well as from their feudal lords4 ,the begs and agas extorted from them forced labour and a third of the produce2 the central government levied a tithe1 which at the date of the outbreak had become an eighth4 ,three kinds of cattle tax3 the tax for exemption from military service levied on every infant in arms1 forced labour in the roads1 forced loan of horses1 a heavy tax on grapes and tobacco1 and a variety of lesser taxes crushed the ,christian peasants2 but more galling still the manner in which these taxes were extorted--the iniquitous assessment of tax farmers and excisemen--and the brutal license of the ,zaptiehs quartered on recalcitrant villagers4 ,all this caused the insurrection of #ahge1 the villagers of ,nevinsinge 7which takes its name from a plateau near ,mostar7 who were unable to bear the extortions and outrages committed by the ,zaptiehs and bashi-basouks1 rose against their oppressors4 ,the insurrection spread rapidly through ,herzegovina and on to ,bosnia1 and for a year the ,herzegovinians under their leaders held out against all the forces of ,turkey1 and in two struggles in the gorge of ,muratovizza the ,turks lost over #b1jjj men4 ,in ,july1 #ahgf1 principalities joined in the struggle2 the ,russo-,turkish war followed1 and by the treaty of ,berlin1 the government of ,herzegovina and ,bosnia was confided to ,austria-,hungary1 while ,niksich and the country about ,mount ,dormitor were detached from ,herzegovina and annexed to ,montenegro4 ,curiously enough1 that at this present time1 when all the states around are agitating1 not one word comes in protest from either of these two states1 ,herzegovina or ,bosnia4 ,in ,july1 #ahgh1 the ,austrian troops crossed the ,herzegovinian frontier1 and this news roused the ,mahomedan fanatics to a desperate effort4 ,on ,august #bnd the ,mahomedans of ,mostar1 believing themselves betrayed by the ,turkish government1 rose en masse1 murdered the ,turkish governor and officials4 ,the ,austrians pressed forward1 and crushing some ineffectual efforts at resistance1 entered ,mostar on the #eth ,august4 ,since the completion of the occupation1 the government of the province has been under the military governor at ,sarjevo1 controlled by the ,foreign ,office at ,vienna4 ,the ,sultan has1 up to now1 remained the sovereign de jure1 so that the present declaration of ,austria is not likely to involve any alteration of government from what has gone on all these last thirty years4 ,at ,mostar there is quite a comfortable hotel called ,hotel ,narenta1 with a ,restaurant attached1 where you can order what you like in the way of food1 without having to sit through a weary supper--which took an hour at ,ragusa1--and we found the cooking much better too4 ,two ladies can travel alone in these parts quite well1 if they can speak ,italian and ,german1 and at the ,hotels they all speak ,english4 ,i have my guide1 ,karabaich1 who carries my sketching things and keeps off the crowd--all of which is a convenience1 but not a necessity so far4 ,next day we wandered into the town1 which was a mass of mud4 ,it rained at intervals1 but we managed to see the old town with the ,turkish ,bazaar1 which consists of tiny shops2 nothing much tempted us to buy1 though it was interesting to look at them4 ,there are many little ,mosques dotted about with tiny minarets4 ,it was too wet to sketch1 so memory must suffice4 ,i thought of taking a drive1 but the downpour began after lunch4 ,we wondered how much longer it would last66 ,the stamps of ,herzegovina are most fascinating with little views on them1 they can be had from the value of a quarter of a farthing upwards1 each stamp has a different view on it1 and they are double the size of an ordinary stamp1 so take up a good deal of room on an envelope4 ,here we were much impressed by the women's ungainly costume with their hideous baggy trousers1 generally of some black material1 the whole of the upper part of the body and head is swathed in the feridjeh1 and they waddle along very similar to ducks1 the back view being most laughable4 ,i have painted one in my view of the bridge of ,mostar4 ,i made the excursion by carriage to the source of the ,buna1 about eight miles from ,mostar2 happily it ceased raining and ,i was able to sketch the source which wells up from the ground apparently1 but is one of the curious rivers of these countries which in an extraordinary way find their way through a mountain4 ,a windmill and mosque came picturesquely into my foreground1 and the rich deep blue of the water added to its charm4 ,i was sorry we had such wretched weather at ,mostar4 ,illustration3 ,the ,source of the ,buna1 near ,mostar4 ,illustration ,about seven o'clock next day the sun came out very kindly for our journey to ,sarjevo1 the capital of ,bosnia1 and before leaving ,mostar we paid another visit to the town1 into other streets2 but the picturesque ones are all ,turkish4 ,the better class women wear a most curious feridjeh1 with a bonnet attached to it very like an elongated ,quaker's bonnet2 no one can see under it1 but they see out of a chink4 ,this domino is generally all black or dark blue4 ,many of the women wore trousers under their skirts1 the latter they tucked up very high to keep them out of the mud4 ,going along in the train we saw many curious houses and scenes4 ,the houses have all very deep roofs of wood and often the whole house is wood1 there are no proper chimneys1 the smoke coming out at four little windows in the roof4 ,ploughing was in full force1 and six oxen are often yoked to a plough driven by a woman in ,turkish trousers and sort of shawl over her head2 sometimes the trousers were scarlet and the shawl white1 and sometimes the whole costume would be yellow4 ,the little girls and boys1 looking after the flocks of sheep with beautiful long white wool1 were dressed in brown sort of riding breeches1 the boy wearing a fez and the girl a kerchief on the head1 the only distinction of sex4 ,illustration3 ,a ,street in ,sarjevo4 ,illustration ,bosnia1 the other state claimed by ,austria1 which is very mountainous1 is bounded on the south by ,albania and ,montenegro1 east by ,servia1 north and west by the ,austrian dominions1 and has an area of about #bd1jbd miles4 ,a large proportion is forest land1 and valuable as it furnishes timber and fuel4 ,plums are largely grown and exported as prunes2 maize and wheat are the principal crops1 but barley1 oats1 hemp1 rice1 are grown2 cattle1 sheep and goats are plentiful1 and large droves of pigs are fed in the oak forests4 ,the whole valley of the ,bosnia is said to be a coal bed1 and copper is worked in several places1 also at ,inatch is a very valuable cimmabar mine4 ,marble1 too1 is found and there are saline springs4 ,the principal exports are timber1 fruit1 cattle1 wool1 lamb-skins1 furs of wild animals1 wax and honey4 ,nearly all the trading is with ,austria4 ,lately several roads have been made that connect some of the principal towns4 ,the province is divided into seven ,sandjaks4 ,the people are ,servians1 but principally ,mahomedans1 as is seen in passing many graveyards by the side of the railway1 sadly dilapidated spots1 the gravestones of which for men are composed of a column1 crowned by a carved turban or fez1 generally toppling sideways over in a melancholy manner and leaning towards another column4 ,a large part of the south has an ,albanian population4 ,mahomedanism is not only predominant1 but often enforced2 education is very neglected1 though there are a good many schools4 ,the population of ,bosnia is about #a1eib1jjj4 ,the early inhabitants were ,illyrians1 and for the first time they are mentioned in the history was #cd ,b4,c4 ,in the ,roman period1 of which nothing remains1 and at the end of the fourth century1 ,roman sway was overcome by the invasion of the ,goths1 then followed ,croatians1 then ,servians4 ,the south-west part became ,christian under ,justinian 7#ebg-efe7 and the rest of it by ,servian apostles1 ,cyril and ,methodius1 about ,a4,d4 #hhj4 ,from ,a4,d4 #idj and onwards1 ,bosnia was governed by elective princes or 8bans10 who afterwards became feudatories of the ,hungarian kings4 ,in ,a4,d4 #acgg1 the ruling ,ban assumed the title ,king ,stephen ,tvertko ,i4 ,in the reign of his eighth successor1 ,stephen ,tomashewitch1 ,bosnia was conquered by ,sultan ,mahommed ,,ii41 this was in #adfc4 ,in #aebh1 the banet of ,jaice1 and in #aeib the north-west part of ,bosnia was taken by ,turkey1 and became the chief theatre of long wars between ,austria and ,turkey1 which at length were ended by the peace of ,sistova in #agia4 ,the oppressive ,turk left very little peace1 causing the ,christians to revolt repeatedly1 particularly in #ahej and #ahge2 and in #ahgh1 the ,treaty of ,berlin handed ,bosnia with ,herzegovina over to the government of ,austria4 ,a great deal has been done by way of improvements1 such as new roads connecting important towns1 the railway1 also good gendarmes keep order4 ,i do not think the ,bosnian is at all dissatisfied1 in fact ,i understand that at a large meeting at ,sarjevo of the ,servian ,independent ,party1 which consists chiefly of peasants1 they decided to send a deputation of sixty persons to thank the ,emperor of ,austria for the annexation of ,bosnia and ,herzegovina1 and to assure ,his ,majesty of their loyalty4 ,one half of the deputation would consist of peasants1 and the rest of the clergy and townsmen4 ,the propositions of ,austria-,hungary being1 that the complete autonomy which would be introduced into ,bosnia and ,herzegovina would be based on the three ruling elements of the population1 which must receive their proper representation in the ,diet4 ,to ensure this free development of the country1 as well as religious peace1 each of the three denominations would elect a certain number of deputies1 but no one would be obliged to elect a member of his own persuasion4 ,in addition to the ,diet1 district councils would also be created4 ,it is thought that these arrangements may be carried out in the ,spring4 ,the chief town1 ,sarjevo1 is picturesque with its numerous minarets1 and there are nine bridges over its river1 the ,miljavka4 ,illustration3 ,turkish ,shops1 ,sarjevo4 ,illustration ,sad to say we found ourselves very near the snow at ,sarjevo1 and from the incessant rain the streets were ankle-deep in mud in the ,bazaars4 ,we wandered out in the afternoon with our skirts not quite so high as the trousered ladies1 but still we were determined they should be out of the mud4 ,of course sketching and photography were not to be thought of1 the only thing we could do was to patter along and see as much of interest as possible4 ,in the little shops copper was being beaten into trays1 jugs1 ash-trays1 coffee pots and cup holders1 also there were silver and enamel things for sale2 ,i bought a couple of silver hat-pins4 ,i saw buckles1 brooches1 studs1 earrings1 c41 all made of silver in patterns or designs carried out on the article for sale4 ,there were quantities of shoemakers and saddlers all hard at work4 ,stalls of sweet sellers who have a round table on which to display their wares laid out in sections4 ,the lemonade sellers and coffee sellers carried their jugs and glasses1 calling as they walked1 very like ,cairo4 ,people wore goloshes or pattens of wood1 some of the latter of which ,miss ,b4 was very anxious to purchase1 but ,i rather frightened her1 saying she might fall on her nose as she was not used to them1 and no doubt they would be awkward to walk with at first1 so she refrained from buying a pair4 ,we plodded along for some time1 then returned to a warm caf1 where we had delicious coffee with beaten up cream1 so grateful and warming6 ,the cold at ,sarjevo was so great that ,i felt very tempted to go straight to ,budapest and give up my tour to ,plitvice after all4 ,it is no pleasure to be even out of doors in this damp depressing weather1 but unfortunately the morning that was to decide me broke forth into sunshine once more1 and ,i decided to go on4 ,no green was to be seen on any bushes1 and the rivers were all in flood2 however1 as ,i had a guide on purpose for this trip1 ,i wanted to go if possible4 ,my bedroom had such a depressing outlook that ,i asked to change it4 ,a tumbledown ,turkish hotel was not elevating to spirits ,i found1 and beside that there seemed to be a general rubbish heap2 in fact1 ,i had my doubts as to whether it was healthy1 overlooking such a place4 ,though it is always an effort to change rooms1 ,i made up my mind it must be done1 and changed very much for the better1 moving into quite a new part of the hotel1 which was very sweet and clean after what ,i had just left4 ,the next day was a glorious warm one and my spirits rose again1 so ,i decided to go the original excursion to ,jajce1 and on4 ,miss ,b41 who did not like driving and roughing it1 decided she would go direct to ,budapest1 and home by ,vienna1 leaving me on ,tuesday evening4 ,the journeys in these mountainous regions are very long and the trains creep very slowly2 each little journey in distance since we left ,ragusa has taken seven or eight hours1 but the whole way is interesting4 ,early1 ,karabaich and ,i wandered forth with my camera1 and in hopes of finding a place to sketch1 which seemed hopeless in the ,bazaars1 as the streets are very narrow1 with crowds of people and ponies laden with wood passing along2 those laden with hay require the width of the street to themselves1 and woe betide the passer-by if he does not step back into a doorway4 ,after lunch we went out to sketch1 and found a quiet street which was also picturesque4 ,karabaich was busy keeping off the crowd who had 8spotted0 me4 ,the boys soon discovered something out of the ordinary was going on1 and the little girls were made to stand back by the boys1 ,i fancy1 but ,i was too busy to pay much attention1 and finally got a most successful sketch with some ,turkish ladies flitting by in the picture2 these ,i had to draw in very hurriedly1 as they1 like all ,easterns1 consider it bad luck to have a portrait taken1 and many of the groups in the market rapidly dispersed when they detected my camera4 ,illustration3 ,the ,market ,place1 ,sarjevo4 ,illustration ,the people one sees in these parts are remarkably plain1 though many of the men are tall and well made1 and of fine physique4 ,the ,bosnian costume is very ugly1 the women wear enormously wide black trousers down to their feet1 these being so voluminous must be much in the way in wet weather1 and become very muddy and damp about the ankles4 ,the material used has every appearance of black sateen4 ,after a journey of seven hours from ,sarjevo1 ,karabaich and ,i arrived at ,jajce4 ,the railway winds in and out1 and in and out of the mountains4 ,it was fine all day until ,i went out to paint the wonderful waterfall4 ,this is a charming old town1 full of quaint wood roofed houses and mosques1 the minarets are even made of wood4 ,there seem to be many ,turks living here1 and in these parts ,i passed many dilapidated graveyards on my way1 and every village has a mosque or two4 ,many of the women are veiled2 it must be a horrid bore to have to go about so muffled up1 and what must it be in summer6 ,at ,jajce in the old days1 the ,kings of ,bosnia had their castle1 and the town was fortified and surrounded by walls2 the ruins of walls and castles still remain4 ,next morning was again wet and ,i did not go out1 finally we had a short shower1 but after lunch it cleared4 ,the landlord asked me if ,i would like to visit a ,turkish lady4 ,of course ,i was delighted1 and he accompanied me with ,karabaich on the box1 to a village about seven miles off1 where a friend of his would take me into a ,turkish house4 ,we drove up to a 8,theehtte0 and were much refreshed and warmed by some delicious coffee1 then ,i sallied forth with the landlady's servant girl as interpreter1 to call1 as of course the landlord from ,jajce could not even approach the doorstep6 ,i could only speak ,german and the ,turkish lady ,bosnian1 so without an interpreter our conversation would have been very limited4 ,it was the proper thing to take presents with you1 for the mother and children4 ,i was at a loss to know where the presents were to be got in that tiny village1 but the little maid took me to a shop1 where we bought sweets for the children and a piece of soap1 scented strongly with pachouli1 for the lady4 ,armed with these we arrived on the doorstep4 ,into the house we walked without knocking--no doubt we were expected--and climbed some very steep stairs1 went along a landing and entered a very comfortable sitting-room1 with a divan all round it4 ,there were one or two chairs1 but the grandmother who came in to show some of her crotchet work1 squatted on her heels on the floor4 ,one little girl with hair of a most curious red came into the room4 ,i heard afterwards it was dyed1 and certainly the colour was most unnatural and never seen in genuine red hair4 ,the grandmother wore a wig of this colour1 and a tiny baby of one year also had it4 ,i asked about this of the tea house landlady1 and she told me they will dye a baby's hair of even a month old4 ,several little boys peeped at me through a crack in the door1 but they would not come in1 so ,i gave the sweets to the girl1 which she secreted inside the cupboard bed in the room1 and the mother tucked her soap hurriedly away somewhere about her person4 ,the room was very clean and neat1 with rugs on the floor1 and a quantity of coloured stuffs piled in one corner4 ,a stove pipe came through the floor to warm it1 but also ,i saw a curious stove in the corner1 which looked as though it was ornamented with bottle ends in cement of some kind4 ,the mother had been very good-looking2 she remarked on my teeth with envious eyes as they were all there1 and she had lost a good many of hers4 ,the windows of the house were latticed1 except those looking on to the river1 where no one could see into the room4 ,mrs4 ,turk was very interested in my wedding ring1 which she proposed to keep as a souvenir1 but ,i expressed much regret that ,i could not part with it1 as it was the ,english custom to wear our wedding rings for the rest of our lives1 and my husband might be angry if ,i gave it away4 ,no doubt she wondered what ,i was doing travelling alone1 but she did not ask me4 ,after a cup of ,turkish coffee ,i left4 ,i was really highly entertained by my visit4 ,illustration3 ,jaice4 ,illustration ,the road runs along by the river which has cataracts and falls1 and little mills built of wood1 standing over the water1 these are reached by a plank1 and are used for grinding corn4 ,we passed an inland lake on the way1 the ,lake of ,jesero4 ,in this part1 it is the custom to kiss your hand--a performance ,i particularly dislike1 and ,i now carefully retain my gloves when ,i think it may take place4 ,it can't be helped1 and to draw it hurriedly away would cause great offence4 ,next morning was not very fine1 but we started in a carriage about #g-cj to drive to ,bajnaluka1 a nine hours' drive4 ,on the way1 where we lunched and the horses rested1 the landlord told me that this year the wolves had come down as low as his house1 but as he had no gun1 he had to wait till they chose to go away4 ,at ,bajnaluka there is not much to see4 ,karabaich and ,i wandered about and found a few ,turkish shops and stalls4 ,the people are hideously ugly1 clothed in quantities of rags1 so they may be warm4 ,a train at #g a4m4 brought us to ,novi 7the end of the world we called it74 ,here we were to find a carriage to take us to ,plitvice1 but the only decent one refused to go1 and the others were so falling to bits ,i was sure we should never reach our destination1 so ,i had reluctantly to give up the expedition and go on to ,vienna4 ,had we known what a desolate spot ,novi was1 we should not have attempted to alight2 but unfortunately we could not get on till evening1 as there was no train4 ,to anyone wishing to travel in these parts1 ,i recommend them to wait till ,june4 ,at ,agram ,i dismissed my guide1 and so ends my trip through these unfrequented parts4 ,one or two little remarks ,i must make before ,i close1 one is on the honesty of the people4 ,my umbrella1 which is a valuable one1 not only in keeping off the constant rain1 but because it has a gold duck on the stick1 which ,i value very much1 ,i suddenly missed one day at ,sarjevo while sketching2 getting a sudden shock as to what had become of my umbrella when ,i had been deep in my paint box1 ,i appealed to ,karabaich1 who had been keeping off a crowd of urchins4 8,it is all right1 lady10 he explained1 in ,italian1 8,i put it by that fence behind10 and sure enough it was still there1 though the fence was twenty yards behind me and a large crowd in between4 ,my luggage1 too1 was often left for ages on a table in the waiting-room quite unguarded1 it was all there on our return4 ,i am afraid ,i should not have such confidence in my native land6 ,a word in praise1 too1 ,i must add of my guide ,karabaich4 ,should any of my readers want a guide1 ,i can certainly recommend him as being most attentive1 of very nice appearance and manners1 and thoroughly honest4 ,he is a native of ,pola and is a pilot by trade1 he also has a boat trading in wine2 his name and the town will always find him1 as he is well known there4 ,he speaks ,german1 ,italian1 and ,slav1 and possibly other languages1 but ,i did not require them4 ,illustration