,illustration3 ,cover art ,frontispiece3 ,sogne ,fjord1 ,gudvangen 7missing from book7 ,,the ,,norwegian ,,fjords ,,painted ,,and ,,described ,,by ,a4 ,,heaton ,,cooper ,,artist ,,of ,,the ,,english ,,lakes ,,with ,,twenty-,,four ,,full-,,page ,,illustrations ,,in ,,colour ,,london ,,adam ,,and ,,charles ,,black #aijg ,published ,september1 #aijg ,black's ,smaller ,series of ,beautiful ,books ,,the ,,norwegian ,,fjords ,,by ,,the ,,same ,,artist ,,the ,,english ,,lakes ,,painted ,,by ,a4 ,,heaton ,,cooper ,,described ,,by ,w4 ,t4 ,,palmer ,,containing #ge ,,full-,,page ,,illustrations ,,in ,,color ,,price #bjs4 ,,net ,every lover of the ,lake ,district will do well to secure a copy of this beautiful book4--,the ,guardian4 ,this very handsome and acceptable volume4--,the ,world4 ,the book is one to pore over at leisure1 and to enjoy either when on a holiday or after returning from one4--,yorkshire ,post4 ,this beautiful book is a triumph of local literature and art which will be a treasure to all in whose way it comes4--,whitehaven ,news4 ,published by ,a4 ,c4 ,,black 4 ,,soho ,,square4 ,,london 4 ,w4 ,,agents ,,america4 4 ,,the ,,macmillan ,,company #fd #ff ,,fifth ,,avenue1 ,,new ,,york ,,canada 4 4 ,,the ,,macmillan ,,company ,,of ,,canada1 ,,ltd4 #bg ,,richmond ,,street ,,west1 ,,toronto ,,india 4 4 ,,macmillan ,,company1 ,,ltd4 ,,macmillan ,,building1 ,,bombay #cji ,,bow ,,bazaar ,,street1 ,,calcutta v ,,note ,the fjords of ,norway1 by their unique charm1 annually attract an increasing number of ,english and ,american tourists4 ,this volume1 the artist hopes1 may be found useful to the traveller who desires a more intimate acquaintance with the country and its people than may be acquired from a casual visit to its shores4 ,it is the outcome of periodical visits to ,norway extending over the last fifteen years1 including two winters spent among the fjords and mountains of that delightful and interesting country4 ,in claiming for this volume no literary merit whatever1 the artist trusts that the vi reader1 whilst accepting it as perhaps a feeble statement of bare facts1 will find compensation for any lack in this respect by appreciating his efforts in the illustrations4 ,a4,h4,c4 ,,coniston1 ,r4,s4,o41 ,,lancashire4 vii ,,contents ,,chapter ,i ,bergen--,the ,hardanger ,fjord--,a peasant's homestead1 and home industry--,horticulture--,land tenure--,boat-building from ancient times--,the staple food of the peasants--,the ,gothenburg system ,,chapter ,,ii ,the ,hardanger ,fjord 7continued7--,means of communication--,a drive by kariol from ,vossevangen to ,ulvik--,ullensvang1 the fruit-garden of ,hardanger--,the ancient and national arts of wood-carving1 tapestry weaving1 and embroidery--,the ,hardanger violin--,waterfalls--,glaciers--,fjord formation ,,chapter ,,iii ,the ,eddas and ,sagas--,heathen mythology--,a pagan temple--,an ancient ,stav-kirke at ,vik--,folklore and superstition--,balder's ,baal1 or midsummer's eve fires1 of pagan origin--,wedding customs viii ,,chapter ,,iv ,the ,sogne ,fjord--,balholm and the ,frithjof's ,saga--,life at a ster or mountain out-farm--,a bear-hunter's tale--,sea-fight between ,king ,sverre and ,magnus ,erlingssn1 ,a4,d4 #aahd--;,an ancient farmstead in ,nrfjord--,a wedding at ,gudvangen--,the ,nrdal ,,chapter ,v ,the ,sogne ,fjord 7continued7--,forestry ,,chapter ,,vi ,the mining industry--,lrdal and the ,borgund church--,the ,vettisfos--,lyster ,fjord and ,jtunheimen--,the ,norwegian ,tourist ,club--,jstedalsbr1 the most extensive ice-field in ,europe--,urns ,stav-kirke1 the oldest church in ,norway ,,chapter ,,vii ,the ,nord ,fjord--,the approach from the sea-coast--,typical fjord scenery--,three beautiful lakes3 ,loen1 ,stryn1 and ,olden--,glaciers and avalanches--,a drive from ,falejde to ie--,the magnificent gorge of ,nordangsdal ,,chapter ,,viii ,thee ,norwegian ,established ,church 7den ,norske ,stats-,kirke7--,the ,reformation--,the ,lutheran creeds--,the ,bishops and clergy--,the dioceses1 deaneries1 and livings--,church missions--,free education obtains in ,norway--,schools and colleges--,the ,university ix ,,chapter ,,ix ,the ,hjrund ,fjord--ie to ,hellesylt--,an evening idyll--,the ,geiranger ,fjord and its waterfalls--,an ancient farm near ,meraak--,by steamer to ,ns--,the grandeur of the ,romsdal--,the ,river ,rauma--,salmon fishing--,the great sea fisheries--,the midnight sun--,winter sports in ,norway--,wild animals and game--,molde1 the most beautifully situated town in ,norway ,index xi ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations ,,sogne ,,fjord1 ,,gudvangen 7missing from book7 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ,frontispiece ,,hardanger ,,fjord3 ,,odde ,,god,,sund 7missing from book7 ,,ulvik ,,stens ,,se ,,fjord ,,skj,,ggedalsfos ,,bondhus ,,glacier ,,sogne ,,fjord3 ,,vik ,,stav-,,kirke ,,ese ,,fjord 7,a ,,wedding ,,party7 ,a ,s,,ter1 ,,vetle ,,fjord ,,fj,,rland ,n,r ,,fjord ,n,r,,dal1 ,,from ,,stalheim ,l,,rdals,,ren ,,urn,s ,,church1 ,,lyster ,,nord ,,fjord3 ,a ,,salmon ,,river1 ,,stryn ,,loen ,,vand ,,and ,,glacier ,,hj,,rund ,,fjord1 ,,ie xii ,,geiranger ,,fjord ,,meraak ,,the ,,mountains ,,of ,,romsdal ,,romsdals ,,fjord ,,from ,n,s ,,molde #a ,,the ,,norwegian ,,fjords ,,chapter ,i ,,the ,,hardanger ,,fjord ,to approach the ,norwegian coast at sunrise is an exceedingly enjoyable experience4 ,myriads of rock-islands in the sea and cloud-islands in the sky1 their perspective terminating on the distant horizon in a peaked range of inland mountains1 themselves like a cloud floating in golden vapour of dawn4 ,as the rising sun burns its path upwards1 the sparkling sea reflects the glory of the sky in countless hues1 and the magic of morning is felt in the air1 cool and clear as crystal1 as the steamer slows to await the pilot and the sea-birds wheel around4 #b ,threading this intricate maze of islands1 indications of human habitation soon become evident perched on grassy headlands or nestling in rocky creeks1 and soon we are at the busy wharf of the first port of call1 ,stavanger1 a bustling and clean little town1 whose eleventh-century cathedral stands in dignified contrast to the brightly-painted wooden buildings at its feet4 ,sidenote3 ,bergen ,the navigation of the coast here is exceedingly intricate--rocky islands and skerries innumerable1 and narrow winding channels2 lighthouses1 which are seen at every turn1 and on both sides of the steamer's course1 indicate the dangers and test the skill of the pilot and captain as the steamer proceeds in a north-westerly direction to ,bergen1 the metropolis of ,western ,norway4 ,founded by ,king ,olaf ,kyrre in #ajgj1 ,bergen has witnessed most of the stirring events of the nation's life4 ,the population of the town is now #gb1jjj4 ,during the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries the ,hanseatic ,league1 #c which then monopolized the commerce of ,northern ,europe1 held absolute sway here in ,bergen1 and the quaint ,tydskebryggen 7,german quay7 was their trading quarters4 ,near by the fortified tower of ,rosenkranz was built to hold the ,hanseatic quarter in check4 ,it adjoins ,haakonshal1 the ancient palace of ,king ,haakon ,haakonson1 who died in #abfc4 ,this is the most ancient part of the town1 although it is at present undergoing a change4 ,tydskebryggen is being modernized2 its old-world character is fast disappearing4 ,close by is ,st4 ,maria ,kirken1 a quaint twelfth-century church1 formerly in possession of the ,hanseatic ,league4 ,triangelen 7the fish-market quay7 is interesting on ,wednesday and ,saturday mornings1 where a fleet of small fishing-boats is moored alongside1 lively and witty bargaining going on between buyer and seller which is highly amusing to witness4 ,bergen is in many respects a most interesting town1 the ancient rubbing shoulders #d with the modern--the electric tram-car with the carrier's cart and kariol2 the slender wood-framed1 sack-covered booth with the gaily-painted kiosk2 and the latest fashions from ,london and ,paris with the divers picturesque costumes of fisherfolk and farmer1 striler and bnder4 ,handsome stone-built shops stand cheek by jowl with the low red-tiled wooden ones1 no two alike1 in every variety of size and colour1 relieving the monotony of the narrow and crooked streets4 ,the climate of ,bergen is exceedingly mild and humid1 not unlike that of the west coast of ,scotland1 and the numerous shops where umbrellas and rain-coats are displayed for sale give some indication of the prevailing weather1 although ,i have known it to be fine there for several days together4 ,but this not being in the nature of a guide-book--,baedeker1 ,beyer1 and ,bennett supply all the information one necessarily requires1 and much more than ,i have space to admit #e here--we must pass on to the chief subject of the book1 and enter the fjords1 taking first the ,hardanger ,fjord4 ,this beautiful arm of the sea is second in regard to length1 the ,sogne ,fjord being the longest2 but what it lacks in this respect is more than balanced by the charm of the scenery and the greater area of land under cultivation--orchards gay with blossom1 and well-trimmed farms with brightly-painted wooden houses1 red1 yellow1 or white1 perched high on the mountain's flank1 or nestling nearer the fjord margin4 ,this beautiful district of ,hardanger has been the theme of poet and painter for generations4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,hardanger costume ,the ,hardanger women are mostly of fair complexion1 with blue eyes1 and their costume is the most picturesque of any in the country4 ,it consists of a bright red or green bodice1 gay with beads in front1 clean white linen sleeves1 a large white head-covering 7skaut71 blue skirt trimmed with coloured braid1 and a belt of beads with an old silver filigree clasp4 ,the #f unmarried wear the hair hanging in two long plaits down the back1 and for headgear a small white cotton shawl tied under the chin in place of the more elaborate skaut of the married4 ,it is an interesting sight to witness on ,sunday mornings the well-filled boats coming from all parts of the fjord parish1 men and girls alike rowing their graceful boats to church4 ,on landing1 they arrange each other's toilet on the beach1 and when inside the sacred edifice1 the women and girls sit on one side of the centre aisle and the men on the other4 ,the service is ,lutheran1 and there is much singing of hymns or psalmer in a leisurely way while sitting4 ,the farmer's dog is also quite a regular attender1 but he is usually well-behaved1 and no one appears to take the slightest notice of him unless he happens to pick a quarrel with another of his species4 ,illustration3 ,odde1 ,hardanger ,fjord4 ,after1 and sometimes during1 ,divine service small groups of farmers may be seen in the churchyard talking over the #g state of the market--of crops and cattle and other gossip--as each one repeatedly turns over the ample quid of tobacco in his mouth4 ,it may be that they meet only once in three weeks1 for many a parson has two or three churches to attend to4 ,but the churches are1 as a rule1 well filled1 no matter what happens to be the condition of the weather4 ,sidenote3 ,a peasant's homestead ,in their homes these peasants live the simple life in square log houses of primitive form1 finished on the outside with weather-boarding1 turf laid on birchbark for roof-covering1 on which grow masses of wild flowers1 and one may even see a young birch-tree find root there and flourish4 ,the houses are painted on the outside1 according to the taste of their owners1 red1 white1 or yellow ochre1 and these bright spots of colour add a cheerful note to the landscape4 ,inside the house the log walls are allowed to season1 and in time they acquire a rich tone of brown4 ,there is #h generally one principal room on the ground floor1 and in it the farmer1 his family1 and servants live and have their meals together in quite patriarchal fashion4 ,in this room also are commonly found a couple of beds used by the farmer and his wife1 the other members of the household having theirs up in the loft4 ,the cooking is done in the large common-room1 as is also the carding1 spinning1 winding1 and weaving of home-grown wool for the family in quite primitive fashion on ancient wheel and wooden hand-loom1 this industry being their chief employment in the long winter nights4 ,outside the farm-house there is always a store-room1 called a stabbur1 standing separately4 ,this building rests on short strong pillars of wood to keep out the rats and other intruders1 and in it are stored dried meats1 cheeses1 milk1 and other foodstuffs4 ,an additional outbuilding1 called a bui1 is used for keeping the clothing1 tapestries1 blankets1 etc42 also the daughter's #i wedding trousseau and old silver articles--heirlooms--including a bride's crown of silver gilt1 all stored away in huge chests 7kists74 ,here may also be found carefully treasured a variety of ancient carved and painted wooden bowls and tankards1 out of use except at weddings and other state occasions4 ,another detached outhouse1 called an ild-hus1 is used for the baking of flad brd1 a kind of rye cake1 crisp and dry1 and of the thickness of brown paper4 ,yet another small outhouse is required for drying corn for brewing purposes1 farmers being permitted to brew ale for their own consumption only1 the sale of it not being lawful4 ,most households enjoy their home-brewed ale at ,christmas-time1 and they may even keep a small quantity over until ,easter4 ,in addition to these small outbuildings there are1 of course1 the barn and cowhouse1 with accommodation for horses1 sheep1 and pigs1 forming altogether quite a little hamlet4 #aj ,on the farms the womenfolk must look after the cattle1 sheep1 and goats1 in addition to their ordinary household work1 so they have not much time for idle recreation4 ,the only important break in their humdrum lives1 and to which they look forward with gladness1 is the annual removal of the household1 in the early summer1 to the ster1 or mountain outfarm1 a description of which1 and the life there1 ,i will deal with in a subsequent chapter4 ,the male members of the family are chiefly occupied with the raising and trading in domestic animals--horses1 cattle1 goats1 sheep1 etc4--in cutting faggots from their woods1 and in the making of barrel-hoops for sale in the nearest towns4 ,boat-building also employs much of their time4 ,sidenote3 ,horticulture--land tenure ,horticulture does not play any very prominent part in ,norway1 although1 on most farms it is carried on to some extent1 together with regular farming4 ,among the more enlightened peasantry it is the rule to find outside the dwelling-house a kitchen garden where vegetables #aa necessary to the family are raised1 such as cabbages1 turnips1 carrots1 onions1 peas1 and beans1 and of fruit-trees we may find in many places pears1 apples1 cherries1 currants1 gooseberries1 and strawberries4 ,on every hand the planting of fruit-trees is increasing1 and in favourable years quite excellent results may be obtained1 but the rough climate during the winter renders the fruit yield somewhat uncertain4 ,it is only in a few districts around the ,christiania ,fjord and the ,hardanger ,fjord that horticulture is carried on to any greater extent than to satisfy the farmer's own requirements1 although at the present time there is a strong movement for the promotion of horticulture1 and many of the counties 7amt7 have appointed gardeners1 who travel round the district giving farmers free instruction in the laying out and management of gardens and orchards4 ,perhaps it may be as well to mention here that the ,norwegian peasant has always enjoyed a freedom which to the same class in other countries has been denied4 #ab ,in former centuries the feudal system was generally adopted in most ,european countries1 but it has never existed in ,norway4 ,the peasants have always maintained their freedom to acquire property anywhere within the limits of their own country2 this circumstance1 however1 did not prevent an accumulation of the landed estates in a few hands1 the result being that the peasant class to a very great extent became tenants and leaseholders1 and less than one-half of the land of the country was utilized by freeholders4 ,as far back as #afhe a ,royal ,ordinance was issued by which a landowner who utilized more than one estate should pay double taxes on those in excess of one2 as a consequence the farms were gradually sold to the peasants1 a process which is going on to the present day4 ,this system of peasant proprietorship has worked remarkably well in the country1 nine-tenths of the farmers being now freeholders2 they have consequently a #ac more substantial interest in the development of their farms and in the improvement of their land4 ,sidenote3 ,boat-building ,boat-building is a lucrative employment1 and this industry is carried on in many places on the ,hardanger ,fjord--chiefly at ,jondal2 also at ,rosendal1 on the ancient and beautifully situated barony of ,rosenkrantz1 at the foot of the mountain ,melderskin4 ,the building of boats is the most ancient industry with which the ,norwegians are acquainted4 ,pliny the elder tells us that in the reign of ,nero the ,romans voyaged as far north as the ,baltic1 and ,tacitus goes on to describe what lies beyond--that they knew1 at any rate1 the southern portion of the ,scandinavian peninsula2 and he speaks of their finding the country rich in arms and ships and men4 ,there are yet other proofs from a far earlier age in the rock-carvings or runes called helleristninger1 dating away back to an age not less remote than #ejj years #ad ,b4,c4 ,these are found1 among other places1 at ,leirvaag farm in ,askevold1 on the south side of ,atlen1 and at ,bohusln in ,southern ,norway1 where they are associated with many chambered tombs of the ,stone ,age4 ,these carvings represent ships1 some of them being quaint representations of sea-fights1 the boats being somewhat similar in appearance to those used by the ,vikings of the ninth and tenth centuries of our era4 ,rude as these rock-carvings are1 they give us some idea of the kind of vessels employed in that very remote age3 they represent long row-boats with very high carved prows or sternposts1 and are steered not by a rudder behind1 but by an oar at the side1 and from this practice is derived our word starboard or steerboard1 being the right-hand side of the vessel4 ,the ,vikings used also a square sail1 which could be hoisted when required4 ,this they had learnt indirectly from the ,romans4 ,the traveller among the fjords of ,norway #ae may1 to this day1 see those heavy boats with high prows and square sails1 which have an indescribable air of antiquity about their build1 contrasting quaintly with more modern-built craft of coasting vessels and fishing-smacks4 ,although this ancient type of boat is fast dying out1 the traveller will yet find a number of them in ,nordland1 and these are still more like the ,viking ships of old1 having also high pointed sterns4 ,these old-fashioned boats are a link between us and the remotest past of ,scandinavia1 of the early period of the rock carvings1 and of the romantic period of the ,vikings4 ,the boats built in ,hardanger differ in form from those of the ,sogne ,fjord and ,nordland1 as the traveller will note as he proceeds northwards1 the ,hardanger type being of light and elegant construction1 and drawing less water than those to which we are accustomed4 ,every peasant and cotter has his own boat or boats1 and these may be seen #af everywhere along the fjord1 either in use on the water1 or pulled up on the strand1 and1 where there is found a convenient landing-place1 log-built boathouses are erected4 ,norwegians are fond of gay colours1 as evidenced in the painting of their houses and boats4 ,many farmers build their own boats out of wood grown on their own farms1 and some build to sell again4 ,the cost of a four-oared boat is about twenty-five kroner 7twenty-eight shillings71 a six-oared fifty kroner1 and an eight-oared boat seventy kroner4 ,sidenote3 ,staple food of peasants ,as fish plays an important part in the diet of the peasants1 the boats are greatly in use4 ,the fjords being great arms of the sea1 most kinds of sea-fish are caught therein1 sometimes in very large quantities1 herring being often in such densely-packed masses that quite a number of fishermen use large wooden shovels to transfer them to their boats1 returning repeatedly to the harvest until the mass has dispersed4 #ag ,at such times these fish are placed in barrels and salted1 being either kept for winter use at home or shipped to the nearest seaport town4 ,fish and oatmeal porridge--havregrd--have formed from the earliest times the staple food of the ,norwegians1 as we learn from the sagas1 and in ,hrbarslj1 in the ,smundar ,edda3 t ek i hvld ar ek heiman fr sildr ok hafra4 ,fr jeg reiste hjemme fra1 aad jeg i fred sild og havre1 which1 translated1 reads1 ,before ,i left my home1 ate ,i in peace fish and oatmeal4 ,illustration3 ,godsund 7missing from book7 ,the peasant's ordinary routine for meals is commonly as follows3 ,at #f a4m41 oatmeal cake or potato cake and buttermilk2 at #h a4m4--the chief meal of the day--is served fish1 and boiled1 salted1 or dried mutton with potatoes2 at #ab mid-day1 oatmeal porridge and buttermilk2 at #d p4m41 dried1 smoked1 or salted fish #ah with potatoes and buttermilk2 at #h p4m41 oatmeal porridge and milk4 ,this primitive food is still the daily custom of the peasant's household1 although in some places coffee is used after the meals1 and a very poorly-baked brown bread of barley or rye1 occasionally mixed with oats2 but rarely do they eat wheaten bread4 ,much has been written by ,norwegian authors with reference to the lack of cleanliness in the peasants' homes1 but since so many foreign travellers in later years have visited the country1 there has been a very considerable improvement in this respect4 ,the real cause of untidiness was that the women had really too much to do in looking after the cattle and farms1 which took up the principal part of their time4 ,thus the ordinary household duties--the care of the children1 cooking1 etc4--were to some extent neglected4 ,this stigma can no longer be applied1 as1 by their own industry and thrift1 the #ai peasants mostly are now in a more prosperous condition4 ,they are thus able to afford more assistance on the farms1 and their wives are spared much of the degrading work which was their lot in the past4 ,they have1 consequently1 more time for the care and education of the children1 and their homes will now compare favourably in cleanliness with any of their class with which we are acquainted4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,gothenburg system ,the present prosperity of the ,norwegian peasant may undoubtedly be traced to the working of the liquor law of #ahga1 popularly known as the ,gothenburg system1 by which it is now made extremely difficult to obtain intoxicating liquor1 especially spirits4 ,the ,norwegian nation may now take premier place among nations with regard to sobriety4 ,norway1 however1 has not always taken up such a favourable position4 ,during the years #ahcj-ahdj we find the country ravaged by the spirits plague1 with its attendant sad results1 moral1 economic1 and sanitary4 ,by a law #bj of #ahaj1 anyone was allowed to distil spirits from his own produce4 ,this naturally resulted in an alarming increase in the consumption of alcohol4 ,in the forties legislation took energetic measures against this1 being at the same time strongly supported by the voluntary abstinence movement4 ,the manufacture of spirits was only permitted when it was done wholesale1 and was1 at the same time1 restricted to a limited number of distilleries4 ,no one was allowed to retail spirits without a licence from the ,local ,board1 who had also local option in the matter1 sale of spirits being forbidden on ,sundays and holy days1 and on the afternoon preceding these4 ,a heavy tax was levied both on the home production and on retail sale4 ,the beneficial consequences of this wise legislation were soon apparent4 ,the number of bars decreased rapidly through a breaking off of drinking habits1 and a consequent decrease in the consumption of spirits was distinctly perceptible1 as #ba well as the increased prosperity and improved public health4 ,the rural districts in particular were almost cleared of spirit-selling1 which was now restricted to the towns4 ,by the law of #ahga the ,local ,boards in the towns were allowed to make over their retail rights to philanthropic companies--samlag--which1 instead of seeking to make the largest circle of customers1 made it their aim to supervise and restrict the drinking of spirits1 and whose net profits from the business should be devoted to objects of public utility--in other words1 it was the introduction of the ,gothenburg system4 ,this system is also in force in ,finland and in ,sweden1 but the ,norwegian differs from the ,finnish and ,swedish in several points1 especially in the fact that the profits do not1 as in the neighbouring kingdom1 go to the municipal funds4 ,norway does not1 therefore1 tempt the municipalities to improve the state of its finances by an increased trade in spirits4 #bb ,finally1 by a law of ,july #bg1 #ahid1 all men and women over twenty-five years of age were allowed to decide by voting whether there should be any sale of spirits in their town for the following five years4 ,as a result of this there has been prohibition of late years in a number of towns4 ,for the whole country there is now only one samlag to every #aj1jjj inhabitants4 ,it thus follows that the many millions of kroner saved annually in households by the reduced consumption of intoxicating liquors have contributed greatly to raise the economic well-being of the nation1 and it has been said1 with reason1 that the ,norwegians have educated themselves to abstinence and sobriety4 ,thus1 on every hand we see evidences of this wise legislation in the enlarged and modernized farms1 increased acreage of land under cultivation1 the scientific planting of fruit-trees1 and the more general use of modern implements of husbandry4 #bc ,,chapter ,,ii ,,the ,,hardanger ,,fjord 7continued7 ,hardanger ,fjord is most fortunate in its means of communication1 it being so easy of access by water from the towns of ,stavanger and ,bergen4 ,native fjord steamers call at all the principal places en route at least once every day1 and the traveller may arrange his journey so as to include a variety of overland routes1 posting by kariol or stolkjerre on good roads1 engineered with great skill1 through magnificent scenery4 ,from the commencement of the seventeenth century the peasants have been required by law to supply horses and to convey travellers at a reasonable and fixed rate of payment1 and posting-stations #bd in connection with hotels and inns are now established on all high roads1 at distances varying from eight to fifteen miles4 ,a line of railway was opened in #ahhc from ,bergen to ,vossevangen1 by which the ,hardanger and ,sogne districts can be reached in a few hours4 ,the journey by road from ,vossevangen to ,eide or ,ulvik is an agreeable experience1 especially after several days on the steamer1 and this gives as good an example as any of the pleasure which may be derived from this mode of travelling4 ,sidenote3 ,to ,ulvik by kariol ,it was late in the autumn when ,i last made this journey1 in bright1 cloudless1 ,october weather1 warm sun1 and crisp1 frosty air--quite an ideal day for driving1 as the roads were dry and firm4 ,about five miles on the way the road ascends through a forest of pine-trees and high1 rocky knolls1 into whose deep shadow the sure-footed pony plunges1 to emerge into the warm and dazzling sunshine4 ,we drive by the craggy margin of a series of wild mountain tarns1 whose #be surface is still as ,dian's looking-glass1 and in whose depths are reflected the craggs1 the silver birches and pines1 so perfectly that you could with difficulty see where the land joined the water's margin4 ,in a near pool a trout rises1 leaving circling lines of light blue ripple on the surface of the sleeping water1 thus accentuating the perfect stillness4 ,for a moment we pause1 just to enjoy for a brief space the silence profound4 ,illustration3 ,ulvik1 ,hardanger ,fjord ,the pony's hoofs no longer click on the hard road2 only the faintest murmur of some distant stream can be heard1 or the rustle of a crisp leaf as it falls from the graceful silver birch near by1 which stands--singly of its kind--a striking contrast to its more sombre companions the pines--a harmony of gold1 silver1 and deep warm green--in the bright sunshine of this perfect ,october morning4 ,onward and upward we drive along the wild mountain road1 still embosomed in trees1 when1 at a sharp bend1 on emerging from the forest1 suddenly we are confronted #bf by an awful abyss1 enclosed by an amphitheatre of huge perpendicular mountain buttresses1 while near at hand1 and from just beneath our feet1 plunges ,skjervefos with mighty volume into the chasm hundreds of feet below1 sending clouds of spray high into the air4 ,the road now descends in long zigzag sweeps down the breast of the steep cliff1 and passes1 through clouds of spray1 over a bridge near the foot of the waterfall4 ,down the steep valley we pursue our way and pass several farms1 where large numbers of goats are fenced in their winter quarters near to the houses4 ,the tiny hamlet of ,vasenden is now reached1 and after a change of horses here1 we continue our journey uphill again for several miles1 on the road to ,ulvik4 ,the steep mountain road is well wooded most of the way1 until at length the watershed is reached4 ,here a fine lake1 ,espelandsvand1 reposes at a height of some #a1bjj feet above the fjord1 surrounded by high mountains4 #bg ,the road in descending approaches in several places the very brink of a deep and narrow gorge1 from whose hidden depths arises the deep gurgle of the mountain torrent on its hurried way to join the waters of the fjord below4 ,the white church of ,ulvik now appears by the margin of the blue fjord beneath us4 ,clustering around the church are the hotels and brightly painted cottages in their orchards4 ,across the winding fjord rise range after range of snow-topped mountains1 forming a panorama as fair as one could wish to behold1 and a fitting termination to an enjoyable drive through such varied scenery as that which is found between the fjords of ,sogn and ,hardanger4 ,one of the most perfect fjord views is to be obtained from ,ullensvang1 in the ,sr ,fjord1 a few miles from ,odde4 ,this place has the reputation of being the fruit-garden of ,hardanger4 ,it has been the favourite resort of artists and poets for generations4 ,here we see1 across the narrow fjord1 #bh the huge snow-field and glacier of ,folgefond stretching in undulating line along the graceful mountain masses4 ,near at hand stands the medieval church on a green promontory1 and along the margin of the graceful sweep of bay brightly painted farms nestle in extensive apple orchards4 ,in the bright warm days of early summer1 when these fruit-trees are in bloom1 the picture is of exceptional beauty1 the wealth of blossom contrasting effectively with the snow masses and blue mountains across the sparkling fjord4 ,from ,kinservik--an easy morning's walk from ,ullensvang--comes that quaint and purely national type of wood-carving which has been revived in recent years in ,hardanger district by ,lars ,kinservik4 ,here he may yet be seen busy at work1 assisted by a number of chosen carvers1 and surrounded by cleverly designed and skilfully executed work in wood--dragons and other grotesque motifs from pagan #bi mythology being worked into exquisite pattern on high-backed chair1 massive sideboard1 and roomy settle4 ,sidenote3 ,the art of wood-carving ,the revival of this national and beautiful art of wood-carving is steadily growing1 and in this district it has spread to stens and many other places in ,hardanger1 and from ,vossevangen into the ,sogne ,fjord district1 where clever carvers are found at ,vik and at ,lrdal4 ,wood-carving in ,norway is one of the most ancient of the industrial arts1 and it shows a well-connected development from the days of the ,vikings1 who carved in bold design the figure-heads which ornamented their warships4 ,but the most interesting and important period of this art is seen in the massive and richly-carved doorways to the wooden stav churches4 ,the earliest of these show distinct evidence of ,irish influence1 the ornament being usually composed of ribbon festoon1 with grotesque figures of animals and snakes4 ,the most characteristic of these #cj carvings date from the eleventh and twelfth centuries4 ,following on this interesting period we find the influence of the ,anglo-,saxon and ,norman1 in which twining festoons of vines and various other plants are associated with dragons and other winged monsters in bold spiral design up the massive door portals4 ,figure subjects inspired by the sagas appear to have been in great demand1 and we find quaint designs of this kind taken from the ,niflung and ,volsung sagas4 ,a number of these richly-carved portals are preserved in the ,bergen ,museum4 ,illustration3 stens1 ,hardanger ,fjord ,from the thirteenth to the sixteenth century the doorways of the peasants' houses were similarly ornamented1 and this decorative art was followed up by the similar treatment of furniture and articles of domestic use4 ,early in the seventeenth century a fresh impetus was given to peasant-carving by the introduction from the ,north ,german ,states of the ,frisian patterns4 ,these are #ca in low relief1 and consist chiefly of circles and wedge-shaped designs of great variety and beauty4 ,examples of this period are far from rare1 and in the proud possession of the peasantry they are treasured as heirlooms1 along with home-woven tapestries1 old silver ornaments1 and antique embroideries4 ,sidenote3 ,tapestry-weaving ,tapestry-weaving as a domestic industry has progressed hand-in-hand with wood-carving1 and this ancient art is still a favourite occupation of the ,norwegian housewife1 who finds both pleasure and profit from its pursuit4 ,the earliest sagas tell us of woven pictures1 thus pointing to the fact that even in those very remote times the ,norwegians showed an inborn artistic sense4 ,of textile fabrics from the ,viking age fragments only have been found1 and these in most cases were discoloured from contact with metallic objects and by the moisture from turfy soil4 ,woollen stuffs as well as linen were used1 even in the #cb ,bronze ,age1 and the woven patterns were always of geometric design1 and were worked in one or more colours1 gold-wire1 gracefully twisted1 being used for decoration on the garments4 ,cloths with figures in colour on them1 and which rather resemble the famous ,bayeux tapestries1 are much prized4 ,coloured embroidery from medieval times is extremely effective1 and displays skill and ability of a highly artistic order4 ,their full and harmonious colouring and beauty of execution make these cloths very valuable4 ,the upstanding loom was used for weaving of picture tapestries1 and it is still to be found in the districts most noted for this domestic industry--,hardanger1 ,sogn1 ,telemarken1 and ,gudbrandsdal4 ,in #ahic the ,norwegian painter1 ,gerhard ,munthe1 introduced a new and original style into the cloth-weaving industry which has had excellent and far-reaching results4 ,his designs are based on the #cc old ,norwegian fairy-tales and folk-lore4 ,they are grotesquely fanciful and highly imaginative1 bold and harmonious in colour1 and extremely decorative in effect4 ,the movement is rapidly extending1 and a new life for this beautiful industrial art is in course of development4 ,the ,hardanger district is famous for men who are clever in the art of making the violin1 and their skill in the use of this instrument is known throughout the country4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,hardanger violin ,this ,hardanger violin is in form higher and more arched than the ordinary violin4 ,a dragon's head usually forms the scroll1 the other parts being richly ornamented by carvings and inlaid with ivory and mother-o'-pearl4 ,there are four strings over the finger-board1 and four or more underneath2 the latter act as sympathetic strings1 and are usually of fine steel wire4 ,the violin is the favourite musical instrument of the country people1 and on it they improvise their musical impressions of ,nature's sounds1 such as ,twilight #cd ,hours1 ,the ,song of the ,thrush1 or the ringing of chimes and marriage bells4 ,through nearly all ,norwegian music there runs a strong undercurrent of sad melancholy1 which may be attributed1 no doubt1 to the isolated and solitary lives of the people1 and to the effect on their natures of the scenery and surroundings4 ,illustration3 se ,fjord ,often the most talented performers on the violin are those whose homes are in lonely and almost inaccessible places1 where the voices of ,nature--the sighing of the wind among the pines1 and the murmur of waterfalls--play on the strings of their susceptible temperaments4 ,sidenote3 ,waterfalls ,norway is the land of waterfalls4 ,in no other country are they so numerous1 and the murmur of them may be in your ears during many days of travelling4 ,the beautiful district of ,hardanger is particularly happy in this respect4 ,the moist and warm summers produce a vegetation unequalled in richness and beauty1 and in the springtime1 when the snows are melting1 the warm and still air #ce is palpitant with the music of countless waterfalls4 ,some1 appearing to shoot from the sky over high perpendicular crags into the fjord1 or gurgling in deep gorge unseen1 send mellow music floating in the balmy air above in delicious waves of sweetest sound4 ,in the immediate neighbourhood of ,odde1 on the innermost reach of the ,hardanger ,fjord1 are found some of the finest waterfalls in the country4 ,one of them in particular--the ,skjggedalsfos1 or1 more properly1 ,ringdalsfos--is considered by many travellers to be the grandest waterfall in ,europe4 ,i visited this magnificent fall about the end of ,may in perfect weather4 ,landing1 after two hours' row from ,odde1 at the farm ,tyssedal1 by the fjord's margin1 a path is found which leads uphill through aromatic woods of silver birch and pine1 and winding up the rough1 craggy1 and bosky valley of ,skjggedal1 it approaches in places quite abruptly the very brink of the deep dark gorge where #cf thunders the river in a succession of cataracts4 ,after a walk of some three ,english miles1 the farm which takes its name from1 or gives it to1 the valley is reached4 ,just before ,i arrived at the farmstead1 ,i overtook a young peasant and his wife1 who were driving a herd of goats before them4 ,the man had several young kids in a covered basket slung over his shoulders4 ,the woman walked in front of the goats1 knitting as she went4 ,procuring a boat and boatman at the farm1 ,i was rowed across a small lake formed by the river widening at this place4 ,i had for my companions de voyage the peasants and their goats1 these of themselves being quite as much as the boat could carry4 ,there was but little room for the rower1 but with short and steady strokes he landed his cargo over in safety4 ,the young peasant informed me that on their way from ,roldal they had observed for some considerable time the #cg movements of a bear making her way with two cubs over the ,hardanger-vidde in the direction of ,ringdalsvand 7lake71 our destination1 and although the man carried a gun1 he was unable to follow the bear on account of the goats under his charge4 ,on bidding good-bye at this place to these young peasants and their domestic flock1 ,i noticed that the man's attire was somewhat out of the ordinary and quite picturesque4 ,he wore dark-blue knee-breeches1 with stockings of undyed wool1 red shirt-sleeves1 and wideawake hat of grey felt4 ,a number of old silver coins1 used as buttons in a double row1 decorated his brown waistcoat2 his gun and coat were thrown over his shoulders1 and in his hand he carried a long alpenstock1 thus making up together quite a picture which suited well the romantic surroundings4 ,we continued1 and in a short time we came to a large lake--,ringdalsvand1 and my guide invited me to take a pair of #ch oars1 and he himself took the other pair4 ,we rowed steadily on in a light breeze1 which gave to the lake an intense blue colour reflected from1 the sky4 ,on every side were towering cliffs and snow-topped mountains1 whose steep bases were clothed with fragments of forest which had escaped destructive avalanches4 ,not a sign of human habitation presented itself2 only wild ,nature1 sublime and grand in the extreme1 surrounded us4 ,illustration3 ,skjggedalsfos1 ,hardanger ,fjord ,after about two hours of hard rowing1 we pull up the boat on a pebbly strand at our destination1 near to the head of the lake4 ,we are now just beneath the magnificent falls of ,skjggedal1 which leap from the top of huge cliffs and send immense volumes of spray to a considerable distance2 while on the gauzy vapour1 which rises up from huge cauldrons at its foot1 the arc of a brilliant rainbow is formed in the sunshine of mid-day4 ,the very earth around seems to vibrate through the deafening roar from this mighty waterfall4 ,to hold a conversation with the #ci guide is quite impossible1 unless ,i shout at the very height of my voice1 and a feeling of deafness remained for a considerable time after leaving the place4 ,after sketching the falls1 my paper being quite drenched by the fine spray which filled the air1 my guide joined me in an impromptu cold lunch on the sunny strand4 ,in returning1 the foss was in sight during an hour's rowing1 until1 passing along the base of a huge crag1 at a bend of the lake1 it quickly disappeared from view4 ,in this immediate neighbourhood are other waterfalls1 the most graceful of which rejoice in the name ,tyssestrengene1 and their waters also descend into this ,ringdalsvand4 ,these beautiful falls are not so imposing as those we have just left1 but they are very picturesque4 ,they plunge down some #ejj feet of quite perpendicular cliff1 in slender1 graceful streams1 which are seen to creep through a natural bridge of glacier ice at the sky-line4 #dj ,other noted waterfalls in the ,hardanger district are ,vringfos1 ,laatefos1 and ,espelandsfos2 each one of these has quite a distinct character of its own1 derived from more or less romantic surroundings4 ,the constant erosion caused by the mighty power of water1 cutting into the mountain masses of conglomerate and granite1 has been the means of forming the deep1 narrow caons and fjords1 and1 in conjunction with moving glaciers1 has been ,nature's chisel1 by which has been shaped the present picturesque beauty of the scenery4 ,sidenote3 ,glaciers ,in the period known as the ,great ,ice ,age1 ,norway is supposed to have been entirely covered with ice-fields1 just as ,greenland and ,spitzbergen are at the present day4 ,remnants of these snow-fields and glaciers still remain1 in this district1 on the immense mountain plateau which lies between the ,sr ,fjord and the sea-coast4 ,here1 too1 we have the extensive ,folgefond #da 7fonn1 or fond1 mass of snow74 ,this enormous expanse of snow and ice covers the plateau at a height of some #c1jjj feet to #e1jjj feet above sea-level4 ,it is from thirty-six to forty ,english miles in length1 and from nine to sixteen miles in width4 ,from this great snow-field glaciers descend in every direction1 following the line of the valleys4 ,the most noted of these are the ,bondhus glacier in ,mauranger1 and the ,buarbr at ,odde4 ,the most extensive general view of the great ,folgefond snow-field is obtained from the high land which lies between ,roldal and ,seljestad on the east side1 and from the neighbourhood of ,teren1 at the entrance to the ,hardanger ,fjord1 on the west4 ,in sailing into a west-country fjord1 and observing how it winds along with no great breadth between the rocky cliffs1 that rise higher and higher the farther we penetrate1 we could quite believe it to be a real fissure in the earth's crust4 #db ,we receive the impression that the steep sides of the fjord must continue down to immense depths4 ,soundings show1 however1 that they soon turn off to a somewhat flat bottom1 that a cross-section is almost in form like a trough1 with more or less sloping sides1 whose height is small compared with the breadth of the trough2 but1 as the fjords are1 as a rule1 very long--the ,hardanger ,fjord being about #aaf miles--we nevertheless get very considerable depths in the fjord basins1 viz41 from #b1ejj to #d1jjj feet4 ,sidenote3 ,fjord formation ,these characteristic and uniformly shaped basins are not found anywhere except in those countries that have once been covered by inland ice1 nor is there any other natural force known that is able to hollow out such peculiar trough-like basins4 ,ice-cut land has always quite a decided and easily recognizable character1 and a ,norwegian fjord landscape might1 therefore1 quite easily be mistaken for a scene from the west coast of ,scotland1 or for #dc one from the lakes of ,italy or ,switzerland4 ,the fjord glaciers in the west country were formed by the confluence of ice-streams from the upper valleys4 ,these valleys1 too1 have everywhere acquired the same peculiar trough-shaped cross-section1 where the sides curve together towards a flat bottom4 ,this glacial excavation further differs distinctly from the more even lines of river erosion in a longitudinal section4 ,each glacier works according to its own power1 without being associated very closely in level with the branch valleys1 as is always the case where running streams have produced the river beds4 ,in these deep west-country valleys1 especially1 it is noticeable how often the shape of the side valley opens out far up the slope of the side-wall of the main valley1 so that the rivers must fall in rapids and waterfalls over this impediment4 ,even if two glacier streams of equal power flowed together1 it would be an #dd exception if they had excavated to exactly the same depth2 there are1 therefore1 continual ledges in the longitudinal section of the valleys1 alternating with rapids and waterfalls4 ,all these characteristics are unknown in those countries where the rivers have had to make their own regular lines of fall1 but they are always found in glacier-scored land4 ,illustration3 ,bondhus ,glacier1 ,hardanger ,fjord ,there is not much room for extensive valleys on the narrow peninsulas between the fjords1 nor is the distance between the head of the fjord and the watershed very great1 being steep4 ,the rivers are therefore short1 although in many places the volume of water is comparatively large1 owing to the heavy rainfall and1 in spring and early summer1 to the quickly-melting snow4 ,thus the depth of the fall down to the fjord head is very steep1 and it is therefore here1 where the mountain forms are grandest1 that the waterfalls are most numerous1 and where they are the highest4 #de ,above the head of the fjord and the upper reaches of the branch fjords there exists in some places a corresponding series of lakes1 or lake basins1 at a height of some hundreds of feet above the fjord level4 ,sidenote3 ,glacial action ,in the ,hardanger district ,sandven1 ,eidfjord1 and ,graven lakes are examples4 ,here1 too1 are rock basins of the typical fjord form filled with river-water1 answering to the erosion caused by the extremities of the shorter glaciers in the valleys4 ,the inland ice during the great glacial period must have extended above even the highest peaks in the interior of the country2 but during the lesser or later glacial period1 when the extremities of the glaciers only extended to the above-mentioned series of lakes at the heads of the fjords1 the higher mountain-tops--at any rate near the coast--and the highest peaks1 say1 of ,jtunheimen1 have stood above the great glacier1 and have thus escaped the general process of grinding4 ,they appear1 however1 to have been #df considerably affected by natural forces in quite a different manner4 ,their surface is frequently broken up into loose fragments1 and we find at their base long lines of rocky dbris4 ,we also constantly find them developed into characteristic ,alpine forms4 ,small glaciers in their hollows gradually wear down as they recede into semicircular corries1 which cut up the original mountain forms into rugged ridges and peaks4 ,these corries can only be developed above the snow limit1 and outside the greater region of inland ice1 or in among the rocky peaks above the glaciers' surface1 and we see quite ,alpine forms lifting their sharp peaks above the undulating snow-field on the extensive mountain plateaux4 #dg ,,chapter ,,iii ,,the ,,sogne ,,fjord ,from the brilliant and heroic ,viking age originate those priceless gems of early literature1 the ,eddas and ,sagas1 poems and prose of the greatest beauty4 ,the ,eddas chronicle the exploits of pagan gods and legendary heroes1 in no way historical2 they are purely mythological4 ,they convey to us in the form of poetry an idea of the pagan mythology of the ,north in pre-,christian times4 ,they were written at a period following on the first settlement of ,iceland1 which was accomplished by pagan ,celts and ,norwegians in the days of ,harald ,haarfagre1 about ,a4,d4 #hgd1 and they were continued long after the introduction there of #dh ,christianity by ,king ,olav ,trygvesson1 ,a4,d4 #ajjj4 ,snorre ,sturlason1 the ,skald1 about ,a4,d4 #abbj composed what is known as the ,younger ,edda1 being inspired by the oldest poetry in the ,celtic and ,icelandic languages4 ,the ,sagas had their beginning in oral tradition4 ,they celebrated the deeds and exploits of heroic men of the early ,viking age4 ,these stories were greatly embellished by the ,saga-makers1 who related them in the halls of petty kings and chieftains at great feasts1 and we may be sure they delighted the hearers1 who took part in imagination in the lively doings of their brave ancestors4 ,the learned ,ari ,frodi was first to commit these ,sagas to writing in the year #aacj4 ,from these early writings we gather some information regarding the heathen gods of mythology4 ,sidenote3 ,heathen mythology ,we learn that ,odin was all-father and god of war4 ,thor1 the son of ,odin the ,thunderer1 was ruler of the air and a #di deadly foe to jotuns 7giants7 and wizards4 ,niord was controller of winds and protector of sailors1 and ,freya was the goddess of peace4 ,balder the ,beautiful was the sun-god4 ,trolds are spirits of the mountains1 forests1 and lakes1 and valkyries are the beautiful maidens of ,odin4 ,asgaard was the home of the sir 7gods71 ,valhalla the hall of the departed heroes in ,asgaard4 ,neiffelheim was the frozen underworld1 and ,muspelheim the place of heat and fire1 while ,loki was the enemy of the gods 7,lucifer74 ,images of these gods were placed in the pagan temple1 which was called ,hov1 or ,hove4 ,this edifice was built of stone or wood4 ,it consisted of a nave and chancel4 ,in the centre of the nave stood a large flat fireplace of stone1 on which the flesh of the sacrifice was cooked4 ,the smoke from the burning found its way through a square hole in the roof4 ,rude benches ran along the sides of the walls1 and in the midst of #ej these was placed1 in a conspicuous position1 the high seat1 with its great carved pillars 7stolper71 and it was on this seat that the heathen chief sat who officiated at the sacrificial rites4 ,in the centre of the chancel stood the altar4 ,this was placed on a slight elevation1 above the hard earthen floor of the temple4 ,ranged at the back of the altar were the wooden images of the pagan gods1 with the principal one--oftest ,thor--in the centre4 ,on the altar the victim of the sacrifice--usually an animal1 but sometimes a human being--was slain and laid1 and the blood was caught in huge bowls of wood or metal1 kept expressly for that purpose4 ,the blood was then sprinkled on the altar and walls1 on the images of the gods1 and on those worshipping4 ,hung on to the altar was a large golden ring1 which the officiating chieftain bore around during the mystic rites and ceremonies4 ,on this ring were sworn all oaths at the ,thing meeting1 or #ea local ,parliament1 which generally met on the same day1 at the conclusion of the ceremonies4 ,sidenote3 ,a pagan temple ,hove ,kirke1 at ,vik1 in the ,sogne ,fjord1 is a fair example of such a temple4 ,it dates from the eleventh century4 ,it was restored by the ,norwegian architect ,blix in #ahhj4 ,built of stone1 it is picturesquely situated on an eminence1 at an elevation of some #bjj feet4 ,it overlooks the village and bay of ,vik1 and across the ,sogne ,fjord the prospect terminates in the glacier of ,vetle ,fjord1 and the high and rugged mountains of ,fjrland4 ,nearer the village1 and on a conical mound1 stands also the wooden ,stav church1 which here forms the subject of our illustration4 ,dating from the twelfth century1 it is one of the finest examples of its kind in existence in the country4 ,it is now owned by the ,society for the ,preservation of ,norwegian ,monuments of ,antiquity4 ,inside this church1 among other quaint objects of interest1 is a baldaquin1 #eb decorated with early medieval paintings and richly carved4 ,the massive church portals show also antique carving in bold design1 and some fine old hinges almost cover the heavy door with their decoration4 ,sidenote3 ,superstitious beliefs ,superstition is not yet quite extinct in ,sogn4 ,in places such as ,vik1 where the mountains are high and steep1 and the valley is narrow and wild1 it is no wonder that the peasants retain to a great degree the superstitious beliefs of their ancestors4 ,hearing from childhood those weird fairy tales and legends which are the fireside sagas of the peasantry1 and spending their whole lives in association with such relics of antiquity as these hoary churches and the scattered burial-mounds 7grav-haug7 of dead warriors of pagan times1 we can quite understand why it is that vestiges of heathen superstition still exist among the peasantry1 and it is discovered in many a quaint form in their daily lives1 even in these enlightened days4 ,if we stroll among the farmsteads1 we #ec may observe a cross within a circle painted on many a barn-door and outhouse1 this being done as a protection against the mischievous tricks of the trolds 7gnomes74 ,these are believed to live up in the wildest and most lonely places in the mountains4 ,whenever cattle on the farm fall sick1 it is put down to the work of the trolds4 ,illustration3 ,vik ,stav-kirke ,sogne ,fjord ,on ,christmas ,eve the peasants burn a candle all night in the house1 and at early morning they go into the cow-house and singe each cow on the tail as a protection against sickness4 ,trolds are thought to be very musical4 ,if there is an exceptionally clever fiddler at a wedding feast1 the peasants say that the performer must have been up the mountains and learnt from the trolds1 who are believed to play weird and bewitching music in the loneliest recesses of the mountains4 ,in addition to trolds1 there are huldr 7fairies or sprites74 ,these are said to be very beautiful1 and they #ed sometimes assume human form1 the only difference being that they have a cow's tail4 ,these huldr have their abode underground1 and always close by the farm buildings4 ,it is told that on one occasion a servant-girl by ill-chance threw hot water out from the kitchen door1 and immediately the huldr called out noisily1 screaming that the hot water was scalding them and their children underground4 ,peasant women to this day will never throw out hot water from their doorways without first saying1 ,take care1 you who under live4 ,should children fall sick1 the neighbours will say that the mother cannot expect anything else1 for she is in the habit of throwing hot water from the doorway1 and the 'huldr' are having revenge4 ,there is a legend relating to a peasant girl who1 on her way to a lonely ster1 or mountain out-farm1 heard a voice near her call out1 ,tell ,turid that ,tarald is dead4 ,the girl could see no one near1 and #ee on arriving at the ster told the other girls there what she had heard2 immediately there came a loud cry out of the ground1 ,oh1 it is me who is called ,turid1 and ,tarald is my husband4 ,a similar story is found in ,plutarch1 ,a4,d4 #abj1 in which he relates that a skipper sailing among the ,greek islands heard a voice which called out1 ,thamus4 ,thamus was the name of the skipper4 ,twice the voice called out1 and he did not answer2 but on hearing it for the third time he did reply4 ,the voice then called out to him loudly1 ,when you come to ,palodes1 call out that the great ,pan is dead4 ,thamus thought that he would sail past ,palodes1 but would not utter a word of what he had heard unless the weather happened to be still4 ,when he arrived there1 however1 the sea was quiet1 and he1 remembering the words1 called out loudly that the great ,pan was dead4 ,immediately there came from the island a great moaning as of many voices weirdly blended1 #ef and this that happened was soon related in ,rome4 ,a quaint conception relating to mountain folklore refers to what is known in ,sogn as jolaskrei1 a kind of kelpie or old witch wife2 these belong to the nightriders of the kingdom of the departed4 ,they are seen on high1 ugly mountain ridges at dead of night4 ,when these kelpies are out1 they often visit the stables of the lonely farms and take out the horses4 ,these are brought back again1 however1 just before dawn1 but so overworked or overridden and tired that they are quite ready to collapse with fatigue4 ,to guard against this inconvenience1 the peasants paint a cross on the stable door1 or lay an axe underneath it4 ,in some places even now the farmers place food and drink on the table on ,christmas night after all the family have retired1 this being for the kelpies2 otherwise they might be angry and cause much annoyance4 ,in some districts these curious sprites or goblins are known as vaasedrift4 ,these #eg ride or drive through the night among the farms2 and there are those now living who relate that in their fore-elders' time the bits and reins were found on the horses in the early morning1 having been placed there by the kelpies4 ,the spirits of dead ,vikings and chiefs who are buried under those huge mounds1 grav-haug1 are thought to visit each other1 and may be seen flitting to and fro on ,christmas eve and for thirteen nights after4 ,nykk1 nkken 7nixies7 are known throughout the country4 ,these were in former times seen near deep and gloomy mountain tarns and by the brooks4 ,these nixies are able to transform themselves into any kind of animal or reptile1 sometimes even assuming strange and grotesque shapes1 with heads both front and back2 they are the spirits of fresh water4 ,a peculiar legend originates from ,underdal in ,aurland1 in the inner ,sogne ,fjord4 ,in the olden time there was quite #eh a plague of snakes in that place4 ,a ,finn from ,nordland happened to be travelling in the neighbourhood4 ,the ,finns have always been held in great dread by the ,norwegian peasants on account of their pagan practices1 witchcraft and sorcery4 ,this pagan ,finn offered to rid the place of the reptiles if only there was not among them what he called a hvidorm or visorm 7a wizard serpent71 which he described as being in shape like a long hempen rope2 it was quite white1 and had a red head4 ,the peasants informed him that the visorm was never seen there4 ,the ,finn then built up a large baal 7funeral pyre71 and fixed up a high post near by1 up which he climbed2 it was just so high that none of the snakes could reach him4 ,there he sat and beat loudly on his conjuring drum with a drumstick of reindeer horn1 and began to conjure4 ,then out sprang the snake1 which was charmed by the noise of the rune drum1 and forthwith sprang all the other snakes3 #ei from fell and brake1 from crag and wood1 all came racing up to the fire4 ,but now1 alas6 came also the visorm so dreaded by the ,finn1 who shrieked that it was now all over with him1 for in company with visormen came always hvidormen1 the dragon snake4 ,thunder was heard in the crags close by1 and a huge piece of rock was hurled into the fjord4 ,as the dragon snake came forth1 down sprang the ,finn from his high seat2 but he was promptly seized by hvidormen1 and both disappeared into the funeral pyre together and were burnt up4 ,it was in this way that ,underdal was rid at once of both snakes and ,finn1 and this happened long ago4 ,trolds 7sprites7 and horven or kraken 7sea-monsters7 were thought to inhabit the sea and lonely parts of the coast and uninhabited islands in the old days1 but it is uncertain whether people nowadays quite believe in this nonsense1 although they might say ,you must have been a-fishing with 'kraken' to-day if a #fj fisherman happened to come in with an unusual harvest of fish4 ,kraken is also thought to be the legendary sea serpent which is said to have been seen in still summer weather on the deep sea1 far out from land1 by fishermen1 but always at a distance1 never near enough for them to be able to take its dimensions4 ,this sea-monster is supposed to be about one hundred fathoms long1 and to wriggle over the surface of the water1 at times heaving itself even to the height of the masts of a ship4 ,an old saga speaks of a kind of merman1 hav-strambr1 a sea-monster1 whose head resembles a man's helmeted head1 the lower part of the body being in shape like to an icicle1 and no one has ever seen where it ends4 ,when this monster appears it is said to be a sign of storm and shipwreck4 ,sidenote3 ,quaint customs ,a custom which had its origin in pagan times is the lighting of the ,saint ,john's fires1 ,sankt ,hans1 or ,balder's ,baal1 on midsummer's eve1 a festival of the sun1 #fa held on the longest day4 ,it is intimately connected with sun-worship1 ,balder being the sun-god1 and fire a symbolic image of the sun4 ,balder's ,baal1 solbilledet1 smukt1 brndte paa viede stene4#a #a ,frithjof's saga4 ,this1 translated1 reads3 ,balder's symbol1 sun's beautiful image1 burned in pyres on rocks consecrated4 ,we read in the ,icelandic sagas that the two great festivals of the year in heathen times were ,yuletide and midsummer1 and both were celebrated by the lighting of great fires4 ,this primitive custom is better preserved in ,norway than in most other countries1 but even here it appears to be slowly dying out4 ,exactly at midnight the fires begin to appear1 and soon every promontory1 rock1 and mountain breast is alight2 hundreds of fires shine and glimmer as far as the eye can see1 casting their lurid reflections on #fb the waters of the fjord in the brilliant twilight4 ,around the nearer fires may be discerned shadow-like figures moving round the blaze in the dance1 the music of the fiddle being almost drowned by the singing and merriment of the young people who are taking part in the proceedings4 ,a mock wedding forms part of the ceremony1 a young peasant girl being dressed as a bride1 wearing on her head a crown of birch twigs2 the other girls1 in national costume1 follow in procession1 headed by the fiddler1 and the boys bring up the rear4 ,the dancing afterwards is kept up all through the long midsummer night4 ,it is a very effective sight to see the well-filled boats stealing over the water from the surrounding farms1 the young folks1 dressed in holiday costume1 coming to take part in the festival4 ,in several places along the fjord it is the custom to build a strong raft of logs2 this is piled high with combustible material #fc and floated some distance from shore1 where it is anchored4 ,when in full blaze it looks very effective1 and lights up the water with ruddy reflection4 ,numbers of boats may be observed to creep mysteriously around the fire1 at a safe distance from it1 and the lively notes of the fiddle and of singing float sweetly over the water4 ,another old custom still survives in this district of ,sogn4 ,when it becomes known that two young people are to be engaged to be married1 the boys in the district shoot into the air with rifles1 and fire small cannon around the house on the evening when the young man goes to ask of the parents their consent to the engagement4 ,they also ring hand-bells and blow a horn2 these noises must surely prove rather disconcerting to the newly betrothed4 ,in some cases the prospective bride-groom has many miles of rowing along the fjord before he reaches the home of his lady-love4 ,his visit is usually paid at the end of the week1 and he generally spends #fd the night there4 ,as a practical joke1 the peasant boys have been known to take his boat1 drag it up on shore1 and hide it in some secluded place1 much to his great discomfort and annoyance when he wishes to return in the morning4 ,at all large weddings1 to which may be invited from #aej to #bjj guests1 festivities are usually kept up for a week or more4 ,dancing and fiddling go on day and night continuously1 the ,hailing and ,spring dances being general favourites on these festive occasions4 ,the music to these dances is exceedingly lively1 even barbaric in character1 and the dances are consequently wild and exciting4 ,the services of the ,hardanger fiddler are in great request1 and he finds himself engaged throughout the springtime1 going with his fiddle from one wedding to another4 ,each wedding party engage their own fiddler1 and he it is who leads the procession from the farm to the church door1 and it often occurs that several weddings take #fe place at the same church at the same time4 ,there is great competition among the fiddlers on such an occasion1 each one playing to the very extent of his ability4 ,with a jaunty air the fiddlers step forward1 and each neighbourhood upholds with pride the honour and reputation of their own fiddler4 ,illustration3 ,ese ,fjord ,it happened that on one such occasion the church folk were divided in their admiration between two fiddlers of about equal cleverness4 ,one side claimed that a feat had been achieved on the way to the kirk by their fiddler1 who1 while all along playing his best1 did at the same time chaff his comrades who stood on the roadside as he calmly went on with his difficult bridal march1 as though it were quite the most easy and natural thing in the world4 ,this same spirit of rivalry also possesses the younger men2 each vies with the others in skill and cleverness in the dances1 in which their ability to kick the highest is put to the test for the admiration and #ff applause of the onlooking girls4 ,this rivalry would result at times in quite a battle royal of words1 and even more seriously1 it would end in real danger to life and limb4 #fg ,,chapter ,,iv ,,the ,,sogne ,,fjord 7continued7 ,sailing down the ,sogne ,fjord from the sea coast1 the scenery gradually assumes wilder and grander proportions as we advance4 ,at ,vadeim it is just beginning to be interesting and attractive1 and when we come to ,balholm we enter into the finest part of the fjord4 ,here are prosperous farms1 smiling orchards1 and waving cornfields1 and as an effective contrast1 glacier and snow-field crown the high and steep mountains around4 ,tradition points to this place as the scene of the ,swedish poet ,tegner's ,frithjof ,saga4 ,among other burial mounds 7grav-haug7 #fh of chiefs from the ,viking age at ,balholm is pointed out that of ,king ,bel1 whose daughter was ,ingeborg1 whilst at ,framns1 across the fjord1 dwelt ,frithjof the ,viking4 ,these names all occur in the ,frithjof ,saga4 ,at ,balholm stands an ,english church1 the only one to be found among the fjords4 ,built for the use of ,english visitors in summer-time1 its design is similar to that of the ancient wooden stav-kirk1 at ,vik in ,sogn4 ,it was erected recently1 mainly through the efforts of the brothers ,kvikne1 who during their lifetime have been the means of transforming ,balholm from a mere wilderness to a place of great beauty1 and one of the most important places of resort among the fjords4 ,in an earlier part of this book reference was made to the life at a ster1 or mountain out-farm1 a description of which may here be found of interest4 ,many of the peasants who live alongside the fjords are also owners of large portions of the mountain plateaux in their #fi neighbourhood1 and on these excellent grazing is found in the summer months4 ,when the heavy work of the spring has been finished on the home farm1 and the snow has left these highlands1 and when the vegetation has had time to establish itself anew1 the whole farm household gets ready to remove the domestic animals to the ster4 ,it is a picturesque sight1 this cavalcade1 the animals all confusion1 cattle lowing and sheep bleating1 their bells tinkling merrily as they skip about1 the sturdy little ponies1 heavily laden with necessary goods and chattels1 bringing up the rear4 ,all seem full of glee that they can now have a few months of ideal grazing on those high lands after their imprisonment indoors all the long winter4 ,climbing and struggling onwards up the steep valley1 then through almost trackless regions of rocks and stunted trees1 they at length arrive at their destination1 often after some fifteen or twenty miles of travelling4 ,sidenote3 ,life at a ster ,at the ster they rest for the #gj summer months amid rich vegetation by the margin of a lake or mountain tarn1 surrounded by high mountain-tops4 ,here they graze on the bosky slopes to the music of babbling brooks4 ,the ster houses are mostly small and low1 of one story only2 they are usually of a very primitive type1 being1 in fact1 the earliest style of house building now in existence in the country1 this ancient form surviving here long after it had been abandoned in the home farms4 ,attached to the dwelling-house1 or forming part of it1 is a dairy where butter and cheeses are made4 ,a white cheese1 melkost1 is made from fresh cow's milk2 a very strongly-flavoured old cheese comes from buttermilk--it is called gammelost2 and from goat's milk they make gjedost or brimost4 ,the women and girls only live up at the ster1 and in addition to the cheese and butter making1 they must attend to their domestic animals during the four longest summer months4 #ga ,the men come up from the home farm at the week-ends with necessary provisions1 and take back with them the produce of the ster4 ,bracing is the rarified air of these high lands2 and although the sun's heat is great1 it is tempered by the breezes which come from snow-field or glacier on the higher mountains around4 ,illustration3 ,a ster1 ,vetle ,fjord ,when the wild berries are ripe1 the younger girls climb the heathery slopes and fill their wooden pails with the cranberries1 bilberries1 and cloudberries 7multebr71 which abound in great profusion4 ,fagesi1 ,levros1 ,pentekol1 ,buskin3 to these and other quaintly sounding names the cattle answer1 the goats also being known individually by such names as ,skjomos1 ,blegeros1 ,kvideben1 etc4 ,the cattle have their chosen leader1 who wears a bell attached to a leathern collar around the neck2 they are led by its sound1 and keep within hearing distance as they graze4 ,the sheep and goats also wear bells1 #gb nearly all of them1 but the sound of these is quite distinct from the cattle-bells4 ,at a certain time every evening the cows may be seen slowly making their way of their own accord to the ster house1 where they quietly wait to be milked4 ,when it is necessary to call them from a distance1 they answer to the sound of the lur1 a kind of alpine horn4 ,this is made of birch1 and is about four feet long4 ,when blown lustily it gives out notes clear and sweet1 in sound not unlike those of a cornet4 ,on the lur the ster girls are expert performers1 and during the long summer evenings they love to make the mountain crags echo with delicious airs1 which they produce from this primitive instrument4 ,the cattle know instinctively when there are bears in the neighbourhood4 ,at such times they hurry to the ster huts1 around which they crowd1 and from their melancholy lowing the girls are led #gc to know that there is danger near4 ,a bonfire is quickly made and kept alight throughout the night2 the lur is also brought into requisition4 ,thus1 by the aid of fire and music1 the danger is averted1 for ,bruin1 being fond of neither1 gets himself away as quickly as he can4 ,not very many years ago bears were fairly numerous in the high and wild mountain region which lies between the ,sogne and ,nord ,fjords1 but1 owing in a great measure to the more general use of better guns1 they have steadily decreased4 ,the average annual number of bears shot in ,norway between the years #ahdj and #ahfj was #bcj4 ,this number has gradually dwindled down to a yearly average of #dj for the past decade4 ,fjaarland in ,sogn is a noted stronghold of these animals1 and in this neighbourhood many bears have been shot in recent years4 ,one old peasant1 who lived in ,suphelledal here1 informed me that he had during his lifetime shot over #cj bears4 ,as witness to his tale1 his face and scalp showed even #gd then old1 but quite distinct1 traces of the rough handling he had received in the pursuit of his favourite sport4 ,on one occasion1 after having lain in wait for several days up the mountains1 he was suddenly confronted by a she-bear with a young cub4 ,so quickly did she appear from behind a rock1 and so close to him was she1 that he had not time to fire before she struck him on the head with her powerful forefoot1 which action tore his scalp over his face and laid him prostrate on the ground4 ,for a moment he felt the hot breath of the bear around his ears as he lay with face buried in the turf4 ,no doubt thinking that he was killed outright1 she proceeded1 at a few yards' distance1 to scrape with her powerful claws among the loose earth and dbris in order to make a hole in which to hide her prey4 ,she stopped from time to time to look up from her work to see if her victim showed any signs of life1 and being at length convinced that all was well1 she went on with her task with greater energy1 and #ge from her strong claws the loose earth and stones flew in all directions4 ,sidenote3 ,bear-hunting ,the peasant's opportunity1 for which he had breathlessly waited1 presented itself4 ,jumping up1 he seized his rifle1 and with cool and steady aim he was fortunate in bringing down by that one fatal shot a fine animal in the pink of condition4 ,he succeeded at the same time in securing her young cub1 and thought himself to be in great good luck that day4 ,two fine glaciers1 ,bojumsbr and ,suphellebr1 are in this district of ,fjrland1 and both may be visited in a few hours from ,mundal4 ,these glaciers are arms of the great ,jostedalsbr1 the most extensive ice-field in ,europe4 ,the ,bojumsbr is the most important of the two in regard to size1 and the surroundings are majestically grand4 ,king ,oscar ,,ii4 visited this glacier in #ahgi4 ,at the ,suphellebr may be seen and heard at any time huge masses of ice falling over the precipice which cuts off the lower from the upper glacier4 #gf ,at the foot of the lower glacier are several very beautiful ice-caverns1 deep blue in colour1 from which flows the pale-green ice-water on its way to the head of the fjord which is not far distant4 ,sidenote3 ,glaciers of ,fjrland ,the valleys in this district are wild and grand4 ,there is1 however1 rich grazing land1 and the peasants are all well-to-do2 they retain in primitive fashion the habits and customs of their ancestors1 and are very hospitable and kind-hearted4 ,the people of ,sogn--,sogninger1 as they are called--are1 on the whole1 a powerful and gifted race4 ,those of ,outer 7,ytre7 ,sogn are1 as a rule1 placid and even-tempered1 and the natives of ,inner 7,indre7 ,sogn are quick1 lively1 and excitable4 ,their dialect 7,sognemaal7 is clear1 rich1 and full-sounding4 ,it is one of the dialects most resembling the old ,norwegian language4 ,sogn was at one time the seat of mighty families1 and many a warlike company of ,vikings has sailed from this fjord4 ,the ancient kings of ,norway occasionally #gg visited ,sogn1 but not always in a friendly way4 ,an old historical saga tells of a visit which ,king ,sverre paid the ,sogninger to take vengeance upon them for the killing of his bailiff at a place named ,kaupanger1 near ,sogndal4 ,kaupanger1 by ,sverre's orders1 was burned1 and so were the houses of ,sogndal4 ,the inhabitants of these places fled to the mountains and woods1 where they hid themselves and thus escaped4 ,illustration3 ,fjrland1 ,sogne ,fjord ,immediately after this event ,king ,sverre met his antagonist1 ,magnus ,erlingson1 at the mouth of the ,sogndal's ,fjord1 at a place called ,fimreite4 ,here it was that the rival fleets came into contact4 ,the king gained the decisive victory1 and thus secured to himself the crown of ,norway4 ,this engagement was fought in the year #aahd4 ,on the left bank of the ,sogne ,fjord is ,slinde4 ,at this place1 near the close of the thirteenth century1 lived ,audun ,slinde1 one of the powerful chiefs whom #gh ,king ,erick dispatched to ,scotland to fetch his bride1 the ,princess ,margaret4 ,outside the churchyard at ,sogndal stands a bauta sten1 an upright column of stone1 on which is the runic inscription3 ,king ,olav shot among these stones4 ,as we proceed along the main ,sogne ,fjord we obtain glimpses down branch fjords1 and beautiful vistas open out4 ,mountain torrents and waterfalls are seen on every side threading their steep descent among the crags1 now gliding over smooth glaciated rocks1 now wriggling in tortuous1 snake-like fashion1 then a sudden leap over a steep precipice1 ending with a final splash into the waters of the fjord4 ,sidenote3 ,a steamer's cargo ,at sunset the new-fledged moon peeped over snow-topped mountains1 which are ruddy with the sun's last rays4 ,the fjord water around is dashed with purple and pale gold1 rose1 and emerald4 ,a large1 cumbersome boat1 laden to its utmost capacity with sheep and lambs1 puts out from shore #gi to meet the awaiting steamer4 ,the boat is roped to the steamer's side2 the sheep1 handled tenderly1 are transferred from it to improvised pens on the steamer's foredeck1 the sheep in one compartment and the lambs in another4 ,there is also a large open packing-case1 which contains the youngest lambs4 ,a chorus of deep bass and thinnest treble continues spasmodically4 ,the shepherd is among his flock1 his whole time taken up in keeping watch and ward over them1 especially over the lambs1 whose feats of jumping tax to the utmost his patient watchfulness4 ,as the steamer ploughs along1 a pleasant breeze plays on the surface of the now steely grey water4 ,the snow on the high mountains changes colour to a pale lilac1 and the moon brightens as twilight advances1 while over in the west the first faint star of evening glimmers in a sky of palest amber4 ,as we proceed the fjord contracts1 the #hj mountains are higher and steeper1 in places almost perpendicular1 and the waterfalls rush down with greater impetuosity into the dark fjord4 ,we now turn into the ,nr ,fjord in brilliant twilight1 and some of the grandest and wildest scenery of ,sogn is presented to our view4 ,we observe that the kind shepherd is covering up with a sackcloth the smallest lambs1 which are in the packing-case on the fore-deck1 as a protection from the cool night air1 which is rather inclined to be frosty1 even on this lovely night of ,may4 ,the farther we advance up this fjord1 the more sombre and overpowering is the impression we receive of this magnificent fjord scenery4 ,illustration3 ,nro ,fjord ,we now approach the little hamlet of ,dyrdal1 romantically situated at the entrance to the narrow valley of the same name4 ,here huge mountains rear their massive walls into the twilight sky4 ,the ,nr ,fjord is narrowest at this point1 being only a few hundred yards wide4 ,the sound of the steamer's syren now #ha echoes with a metallic ring from one mountain to another in diminishing cadence of sweet notes1 and in reply two large boats put out from shore to meet the steamer4 ,with much struggling the woolly flock is transferred to the boats from the steamer1 the sheep and lambs appearing quite happy--to judge by the sound of their voices--at the prospect of being on terra firma again4 ,at a lonely farm situated in the wildest part of ,nr ,fjord it was my happy fortune to stay for some days in the merry month of ,may4 ,on my arrival there1 and in compliance with a signal from shore1 the steamer slows up1 and a boat is brought alongside4 ,a friendly good-bye to the obliging captain1 and ,i am rowed ashore1 where ,i meet the kind owner of the farm1 my host4 ,he and his good wife 7kone7 show me through the house1 an excellent example of a bonder's home of the olden time4 ,the principal living-room is about twenty feet square4 ,the walls display #hb unusually thick baulks of timber1 while the huge beams show distinctly the marks of the axe which fashioned them4 ,the heavy doors are nearly square in shape1 with lock and handle of antique design in wrought-iron4 ,on one side of this room stands an elevated open hearth 7peis71 over which hangs a crane1 and to this is attached a huge copper cauldron4 ,the smoke from the peat fire escapes through the roof by a very wide open chimney4 ,a clean-scrubbed massive table almost fills one end of the room by the side of the wall-benches4 ,high-backed chairs1 several spinning-wheels1 and a carpet-weaving frame help to fill up this spacious apartment4 ,to reach the room set apart for me ,i must climb up wooden ladder-like steps4 ,my room1 simply but comfortably furnished1 was fresh and clean4 ,on the left side in a dark corner was the customary low1 wooden1 box-like bed1 which ,i saw at a glance was1 for one of my stature1 much too short4 ,it was piled high with #hc some soft material on the top4 ,this covering proved on examination to be a #d-;feet square air-tight bag containing eiderdown about a foot deep4 ,under this was only the thinnest cotton sheet1 and ,i began to wonder how these two as a covering could possibly remain together in harmony throughout the night1 and as to whether they were calculated to cover all one's limbs at one and the same time4 ,on being very considerately asked on the following morning how ,i had slept1 and if ,i would like an extra eiderdown on1 ,i courteously but firmly declined4 ,sidenote3 ,in the ,nr ,fjord ,at #h a4m4 came breakfast-time4 ,on the table were placed several kinds of native cheese1 brown bread1 butter and potato-cakes1 dried mutton 7spege kjd71 and boiled potatoes1 four boiled eggs1 and a large bowl of creamy milk4 ,in addition to these delicacies1 a cup of excellent coffee was brought in4 ,the meal nearly ended1 and not having made much impression on this mass before me1 the good #hd wife again invited me--almost coerced me--to make a good meal1 and seemed quite disappointed to find that my capacity was so limited4 ,similar fare was my portion for the other meals1 varied only with boiled goat's flesh1 ptarmigan 7rype71 and hare or wild reindeer4 ,these kind-hearted peasants did all in their power to make my stay comfortable4 ,they enjoyed a little gossip from the world outside their fjord1 and it was interesting to hear them talk in their very pronounced and ancient dialect 7,sognemaal71 which is as unlike modern ,norwegian as she is spoke as the ,english of ,chaucer's time is to our own modern tongue4 ,at ,styve1 the wildest and most impressive part of this narrow fjord1 the massive peaks of ,steganaase tower overhead1 on their tops a crisp powder of new snow--this was at the end of ,october--and across the fjord rise up perpendicular buttresses of mountains of equal grandeur and #he awe-inspiring character4 ,the fjord is here about #d1jjj feet deep4 ,at twilight the full moon was just struggling from among wreathing mists which clung around the high peaks1 indicating at the same time the presence of showers of fine snow above1 and as we proceeded light snow-flakes descended1 falling lightly on the steamer's deck4 ,we were now ploughing through crackling ice1 which floated in detached patches on the surface of the water4 ,in winter-time the fjord from here to the hamlet of ,gudvangen is completely frozen over1 the steamer being quite unable to proceed farther4 ,the fjord is at that time a highway for sledge traffic to and from the steamer4 ,in this manner the mails are conveyed over the ice to ,gudvangen1 where other sledges are in waiting to carry them overland to ,vossevangen4 ,gudvangen is so completely enclosed by huge mountains that the sun's rays do not reach it during four months of winter4 #hf ,the sun lights up some of the nearer tops1 however1 about mid-day1 but then only for about a couple of hours1 when all becomes grey again4 ,in winter and early spring destructive avalanches of snow and rock shoot down with terrible velocity into the fjord and valley from the precipitous mountain masses above1 especially when thaw sets in and the heavy mantle of snow is melting4 ,at one place in particular in ,nrdal it will be observed1 in driving1 that the road threads in and out among huge boulders of rock4 ,these massive stones formed part of a huge avalanche which descended from the crags here only a few years ago4 ,the postman1 driving at the time down the valley1 only just escaped the danger by taking shelter under a large boulder near the remains of a former avalanche4 ,many of the farm-houses in this narrow valley are built under the shelter of rocks1 so as to be protected from the wind1 #hg which sweeps down the valley at times with terrific velocity1 chiefly in winter4 ,sidenote3 ,nrdal ,some years ago ,i spent two ,october weeks in ,gudvangen and ,nrdal4 ,arriving there overland from ,vossevangen1 and not dreaming but that ,i was certain of obtaining accommodation at the inn at ,gudvangen--it being considerably past the time of tourists--to my intense surprise1 ,i found the place full to overflowing with country folks in holiday attire--a wedding party--and1 to the music of the riddle1 the younger peasants and girls were dancing the favourite ,halling-fling4 ,every room at the inn was crowded1 cakes and home-brewed ale being everywhere in evidence4 ,the kind and genial innkeeper1 with profuse apologies at being unable to accommodate me in the house1 found me1 at last1 a little room over the bakehouse close by1 which ,i found fairly comfortable under the circumstances--it was at least warm and dry4 ,the following morning all was bustle #hh and excitement4 ,in the roadway outside the inn rosy-cheeked peasant-girls1 in their prim1 bright costumes1 were exchanging pleasant banter with the boys1 while the older men lounged around in groups1 with hands in pockets1 engaged in talking gossip at intervals between puffs of tobacco-smoke4 ,the wedding bryllups was to be celebrated that morning1 and everybody was now ready except the bride1 whose friends were engaged in adding the final touches to her maidenly toilet4 ,a start is soon made1 first a kind of informal procession along the short stretch of road to the pier1 and a scramble into the boats1 then out on the fjord1 their oars keeping time to the strains of the fiddle4 ,they row along pleasantly for a couple of miles1 and then arrive at the small white wooden church1 which is situated picturesquely on a rocky mound at ,bakke4 ,there is1 from here to ,gudvangen1 a footpath1 but in parts it is somewhat rough4 ,in several places it crosses screes #hi of loose stories1 which repeated avalanches have ground down in their career from the overhanging cliffs above to the deep fjord below4 ,every winter this mountain path across the screes is wiped out of existence1 and a new one has to be made when the spring comes4 ,the wedding service over1 the whole party1 the clergyman 7presten7 now included1 return to the inn to partake of the wedding feast1 and to drink the healths 7skaal7 of bride and groom4 ,the festivities are prolonged with hearty excitement1 eating1 drinking1 and dancing the ,halling-fling and ,spring-dance day and night for over a week4 ,during my stay at ,gudvangen at that time1 an old woman1 short in stature and poorly clad1 approached me one day by the roadside1 and1 carefully unwrapping a many-folded parcel1 at length produced a few ,english coins of silver and bronze4 ,these she had earned during the past summer from passing travellers by the sale of flowers from her little garden #ij patch4 ,she begged me to exchange into ,norwegian money these coins1 which she could not use4 ,it was a pleasure to see her wrinkled face light up with genuine gratitude for this slight service rendered her4 ,a few days afterwards this same little woman met me again1 and gave me a tiny paper packet1 which1 she said1 contained a few four-leaved clover sprigs4 ,these she had taken all day to discover among the scant herbage on the mountain-side1 and if ,i would only take and keep them1 ,i should be lucky ever after4 ,and who shall say that ,i was not8 ,nrdal is one of the grandest valleys in ,norway4 ,the narrow ribbon of road threads the deep valley1 crossing and recrossing the clear mountain torrent1 whose close acquaintance is kept the whole of the distance to the foot of the steep ,stalheimskleven4 ,all the way the stupendous mountain masses seem almost ready to topple over from both sides into the narrow1 gorge-like #ia valley4 ,the high1 dome-shaped mountain1 which is a conspicuous feature on our right as we proceed1 is ,jordalsnuten4 ,eagles1 falcons1 and other birds of prey inhabit these rugged fastnesses4 ,illustration3 ,nrdal1 from ,stalheim1 ,sogne ,fjord ,at an ancient farm at the foot of ,jordalsnuten the farmer showed me the feet and powerful claws of a golden eagle4 ,these he had converted into base and pillar for a pair of candlesticks4 ,it had happened on one day during the previous summer1 when the farmer's household were engaged in the hay-field1 that their work was interrupted by the sight of a large eagle1 poised at a height of several hundred feet in the air4 ,from its talons a young sheep was hanging4 ,as they watched they saw that the eagle was gradually descending1 although making powerful and frantic efforts to rise4 ,as it neared the ground all hands rushed at once to the spot1 and with hay-fork and scythe they attacked and dispatched the powerful bird and saved the sheep4 ,evidently the weight was rather more than #ib the eagle could carry away1 and1 being unable to extricate its crooked talons from the woolly fleece1 it found itself entrapped by its own prey4 ,the road now gradually ascends the valley1 and at the foot of ,stalheimskleven it takes sixteen zigzag sweeps up the face of the cliff1 which is here about #a1jjj feet above the valley4 ,immediately on the right as we ascend we see a pretty waterfall1 ,sivlefos1 and on the left we get a glimpse of ,stalheimsfos4 ,these two fine waterfalls are romantically situated in deep and craggy gullies4 ,from the summit of the pass we have one of the grandest and most impressive views of the kind in ,norway4 ,looking backward down the sublime ,nrdal1 the grey1 rounded dome of ,jordalsnuten rises majestically on the left1 its steep sides deeply furrowed by the action of avalanches4 ,the mountain mass on the right is ,kaldafjeld1 and in the extreme distance we can just distinguish ,kilefos1 the fine waterfall near to ,gudvangen4 ,at #ic our feet are the two waterfalls we saw on our climb up ,stalheimskleven1 ,sivlefos and ,stalheimsfos1 foaming in their rocky ravines1 their combined waters flowing on in a silver thread along the bottom of the deep valley4 ,so narrow in places is the valley that there appears to be only room for the river and the road4 ,in the summer months this highway from ,vossevangen to ,gudvangen1 connecting the ,hardanger district with that of ,sogn1 is much used by travellers1 and traffic is often greatly congested1 especially at the terminus at ,gudvangen1 where the ,sogne ,fjord steamers are joined4 ,we are now among some of the most magnificent scenery in the country1 and this grandeur is continued into the impressive ,aurlands ,fjord1 which rivals its neighbour ,nr in sublimity4 ,the huge mass of ,bejteln1 furrowed with enormous ravines1 stands like a sentinel at the junction of the two fjords1 with snow-crested ,steganaase behind1 rearing its mighty peaks to the skies4 ,huge perpendicular #id buttresses wall in the fjord on both sides1 and from their tops waterfalls are precipitated in long streaks down the glistening dark rocks1 while deep gorges are torn into the mountain forms1 separating one immense gable from another4 ,at the foot of one of these deep gorges1 and romantically situated1 is the small hamlet and church of ,underdal4 ,to the left1 farther up the fjord1 stands ,aurland1 or ,vangen1 the principal village in the fjord parish 7vasbygd7 of ,aurland4 ,the small stone church here1 it will be observed1 has an unusually high-pitched gable and steeply sloping roof4 ,from the head of this ,aurlands ,fjord1 by ascending the ,flaamsdal 7the valley of the swollen river71 magnificent views are obtained out over the fjord4 ,the road up this grand valley terminates at ,myrdal ,station1 on the new ,bergen-,christiania ,railway1 and near the ,hallingdal entrance to the long ,gravehalsen tunnel1 amid mountain scenery of overwhelming grandeur and sublimity4 #ie ,,chapter ,v ,,the ,,sogne ,,fjord 7continued7 ,at ,frnningen a profitable business is done in tree-felling4 ,large forests of pine and fir clothe the steep sides of the mountains here1 and modern saw-mills are erected at the foot of a torrent by the margin of the fjord4 ,seen from here1 the glaciers of ,fresvik and ,rambren1 both over #e1jjj feet high1 stand out boldly against the sky4 ,a very charming effect of sunshine and shower won my attention near here one afternoon in the month of ,may4 ,immediately in front of the steamer1 and from the mountains on one side of the fjord to those on the other1 stretched a most vivid rainbow2 the snow-capped mountains of #if ,lyster were faintly visible beneath the arc1 through a misty veil of rain-gauze4 ,as the steamer proceeded the rainbow appeared to retire1 so that we were not to sail under the beautiful arc-en-ciel on that occasion4 ,instead1 we were presently enveloped in driving rain1 and to pace the wet and slippery decks was no longer an enjoyable occupation4 ,the mountain-forms were all wiped out by the rain-curtain1 and1 from a state of comparative calmness1 the waters of the fjord became almost as choppy as the open sea4 ,this condition of the elements did not last long1 however4 ,in the space of an hour all was again in brilliant1 almost dazzling1 sunshine1 the rocks and trees on the mountain slopes sparkling with raindrops1 and the air became fresh and cool4 ,it will be observed1 as we sail along1 that this district is more thickly wooded than almost any other part of ,sogn1 many of the mountains being quite covered with the dark foliage of pines1 even to their summits4 #ig ,the real forest trees of ,norway are the ,scotch fir 7furu71 the spruce 7gran71 and hardy birch4 ,these trees grow all over the country1 sometimes in unmixed1 continuous forests covering large areas1 but1 generally speaking1 they are associated with oak1 elm1 and ash1 in smaller numbers4 ,in the eastern and southern parts of the country these trees cover the mountain slopes from the bottom of the valleys up to a height of some #b1ejj feet above sea-level2 at this elevation they are succeeded by hardy forests of birch up to another #a1jjj feet2 higher than this the shrubs of the mountain plateau--the dwarf birch--only survive4 ,small forests are found near the coast in places where they are protected by islands or promontories from the sea winds1 but we must go farther inland1 and to the heads of the larger fjords1 before we can come across any large extent of forest-covered country4 ,the western part of ,norway1 however1 is not remarkable for its forests in comparison with the eastern districts4 #ih ,hedemarken ,amt 7county7 has the largest forest area1 while ,stavanger ,amt has the smallest4 ,of the timber intended for sale1 considerable quantities are sent abroad1 chiefly spruce and ,scotch fir4 ,birch is found throughout the country1 as a rule in company with other trees1 and may be seen brightening up the dark coniferous forests with its silver bark and delicate foliage4 ,there are two species of birch--the lowland or white birch1 with graceful drooping branches1 and the hardy mountain birch1 which is rather darker in colour and more stunted in form4 ,it is only in the most northern countries that the lady of the woods attains its full beauty4 ,the birch is one of the most useful of trees1 the wood being used for a great variety of purposes4 ,the inner bark is used for tanning1 and the outer1 thicker1 bark for the roofs of houses1 being placed under the thick covering of turf4 ,the leaves are used as fodder for cattle4 ,among other species of trees which grow around the lowland farms and #ii meadows are found the aspen1 whose wood is used in the manufacture of matches1 the alder1 the rowan and hazel1 along with the useful ash4 ,the wood of the last-named is largely used in the making of the lang ski 7snow-shoes74 ,timber-felling usually begins in the late autumn4 ,it is an arduous and ofttimes dangerous occupation1 and requires hardy and strong men4 ,as the larger forests lie often at a considerable distance from the inhabited districts1 many weeks are spent by these woodmen in log huts specially constructed for the purpose in the vicinity of their work4 ,the timber1 having been felled and stripped of its bark1 is collected in convenient places1 and when the snow is sufficiently deep1 it is then hauled to the nearest river1 where it is stacked to await the melting of the snow and ice1 when it is floated down the swollen torrent or river1 and by this means it is carried down to the lake or fjord and taken to the saw-mills4 ,norway in ancient times had a larger #ajj area of forest than it has at the present4 ,in the fourteenth century the ,hanseatic ,league appropriated the commerce of the country4 ,they cut down the forests nearest the coast1 also farther inland around the fjord districts1 and exported the timber1 having at that time considerable commerce with the ,dutch1 and later--in the seventeenth century--with the ,english and ,scotch4 ,forest fires1 and the growing consumption of timber1 as the population increased1 along with reckless felling on the farm lands1 have been the means of denuding the west country of the larger forests1 thus leaving the mountains comparatively bare and desolate and the plateaux a wilderness4 ,the ,state owns very extensive forests1 chiefly in the extreme north and east of the country1 altogether covering an area of some #b1ejj square miles4 ,these forests are under the control of forestry managers1 overseers1 and rangers4 ,a commercial system has been devised by which these #aja forests are kept up to their original size and value1 ,state nurseries for the rearing of young trees having been established at several places in the country1 the two largest being at ,voss and ,hamar4 ,three forestry schools for elementary instruction in the cultivation and treatment of forests1 and an agricultural college for advanced instruction in the same1 have been founded in recent years4 #ajc ,,chapter ,,vi ,,the ,,mining ,,industry ,the mining industry1 which commenced activity in the seventeenth century1 was responsible for the consumption of very large quantities of timber1 and this has been going on for the last #bgj years4 ,the ,kongsberg silver-mines1 which are owned by the ,state1 have alone some fifty square miles of ,state forest set apart for their requirements4 ,the ore at these mines is virgin silver1 occurring in lodes1 and it is sometimes found in large nuggets weighing up to #bjj pounds4 ,these silver-mines were commenced in the year #afbd4 ,copper-mining was started at ,rros in #afdf4 ,the most important copper-mines in the country are the ,kongensgrube1 ,arvedalsgrube1 and ,storvatsgrube2 the #ajd ore found in them is copper pyrites1 and a large quantity is exported4 ,there are also extensive copper-mines at ,sulitjelma in ,nordland1 at ,aamdal in ,telemarken1 and at ,valahei in ,hardanger4 ,owing to the condition of the forests and the consequent rise in the value of charcoal1 iron mining has not been very profitable1 and many old works have been closed4 ,the ,arendal iron-ore mines are the only important mines now worked1 and the ore is noted for its excellent quality4 ,sidenote3 ,the mining industry ,it will thus be seen that the mining industry in ,norway is not of very considerable importance1 the reason being that1 although the country is fairly rich in minerals1 the cost of conveyance to the coast is yet too great for much profit to be made4 ,those districts which are found to be rich in iron-ore happen to lie in almost inaccessible country1 and as coal does not occur except on the out-of-the-way island of ,anden1 the native conditions are not favourable for smelting4 #aje ,in ,gudbrandsdal and at several places near ,throndhjem soapstone is quarried in considerable quantities1 and is now extensively used for building purposes4 ,the cathedral of ,throndhjem is built of this stone4 ,slate of a beautiful green colour is quarried at ,voss and in ,valders4 ,granite1 syenite1 and porphyry are found in great abundance all over the country4 ,minerals which contain rare and beautiful metals and earths occur in several places--at ,arendal1 for example--and these minerals are highly treasured in all scientific collections4 ,the village and neighbourhood of ,lrdal1 or1 properly1 ,lrdalsren1 is a notable example of tree-denuded country4 ,hidden away on a branch of the great ,sogne ,fjord1 and surrounded by bare and massive mountains1 ,lrdalsren owes its chief1 perhaps only1 claim to importance from being the chief avenue of traffic to the ,sogne ,fjord from the land side4 ,owing to its enclosed situation1 the direct #ajf rays of the sun do not reach the village during some five months of the winter season1 being in this respect in a worse position than ,gudvangen4 ,sidenote3 ,lrdal ,the village of ,lrdalsren lies on a broad1 flat1 well-cultivated plain at the estuary of the river ,lra1 or the ,lrdalselv1 an excellent salmon river4 ,the valley through which this river flows is superbly wild and picturesque2 the mountains which enclose it are bare1 rocky1 and desolate4 ,the farther up this valley we go1 the wilder becomes the scenery1 and the torrent thunders in many a cataract along the base of the ravine-like valley4 ,illustration3 ,lrdalsren ,we may observe in several places huge cauldrons worn out of the solid rock by the action of water1 a number of these cauldrons being now far above the present level of the river4 ,we may also see1 as we proceed1 that the road crosses several ancient lake basins1 now dry1 the river having1 in the course of ages1 gradually worn down their rocky barriers1 thus draining the water from them4 #ajg ,some twelve miles drive up this magnificent valley we arrive at a place called ,borgund1 where stands the quaint and curious stav kirke of that name4 ,this extremely interesting and fantastic church was built in the twelfth century1 and is in quite the best state of preservation of any church of its kind in the country4 ,it is not now used for ,divine service1 a new and more commodious church having been built near by1 for the better convenience of the inhabitants of the district4 ,this ancient stavkirke of ,borgund is now the property of the ,antiquarian ,society of ,christiania4 ,every part of this curious church is of extreme interest--six tiers of pagoda-like1 shingle-covered roof1 numerous gables from which spring grotesque dragons' heads1 and lofty and elaborately carved portals4 ,on the massive door is carved1 in runic characters1 the following inscription3 ,thorir raist runar thissar than ,olaf misso4 7,thorir wrote these lines on the fair of ,saint ,olaf47 #ajh ,the church is picturesquely situated in the grandest portion of the ravine-like valley of ,lrdal4 ,to return to the village4 ,in the evening we might enjoy an hour among the clusters of old houses1 and down by the boats hear the mellow tone of the dialect of ,sogn2 or1 strolling by the margin of the still fjord1 see the first discernible star of evening prick his image like a diamond in the calm water1 while all around the great mountains repeat their mighty forms in accurate replica1 save where a slight puff of evening air disturbs the reflection in a long streak of silver ripple1 dying away as softly as it had begun4 ,a boat puts out from a tiny creek near by1 and silently steals into the line of vision4 ,only the faintest plash of the oars is heard1 and voices perhaps imagined4 ,a line of sparkling light marks out the boat's track across the deep reflections slowly fading away as the boat passes out of sight4 ,sailing out of the ,bay of ,lrdal on a #aji bright summer's morning1 and all nature being in its blithest mood1 we should be dull mortals indeed if we were not touched by some chord in the melody1 and rejoice1 even with the birds1 in the glorious sunshine and the rarified atmosphere4 ,the morning sun sparkles on the blue fjord1 and the delicate haze on the mountains indicates the prelude to a hot day1 so we take some little care to place in a shady position our deck-chairs1 and any stray whiff of breeze is encouraged and acceptable4 ,the fjord is still1 and1 like a mirror1 reflects accurately the image of each mountain and crag1 tree1 and grazing cow4 ,the steamer ploughs along1 and the long wash it creates breaks noisily in its rear on cliff base and rocky strand4 ,we now arrive at the small village1 or hamlet1 of ,aardal1 at the head of the branch fjord of the same name4 ,the hamlet is picturesquely situated on an elevation above the shore1 and for a #aaj background has an imposing amphitheatre of high mountains4 ,the grandest waterfall in the ,sogn district is in this neighbourhood--the ,vettisfos4 ,this waterfall plunges into a deep and awful chasm from a height of some #ijj feet4 ,the way to it is romantic and rough1 and1 to add a spice of flavour to the excursion1 the district is a well-known haunt of bears at certain seasons of the year1 but not in summer-time4 ,in the ,vettisgjel1 a very deep and narrow ravine on the way to the waterfall1 destructive avalanches of rock are frequent1 especially after winter's thaws or heavy rain4 ,sidenote3 ,lyster ,fjord ,in ,lyster ,fjord--the longest arm of the great ,sogne ,fjord--the scenery is diversified and beautiful1 but milder in character than that which we have recently been viewing4 ,at the head of the fjord1 however1 the scenery is picturesque and grand1 in character somewhat resembling that of the #aaa ,lake of ,lucerne1 and by many travellers thought to be quite as beautiful4 ,skjolden1 at the northern extremity of the fjord1 is a starting-point for ,jtunheimen 7the ,giant ,mountains71 the ,alps of ,norway--the home of giants 7jtun7 according to ,norse mythology4 ,this wonderful group of mountains is in the very heart of the country1 and it is here that the grandest peaks in the whole of ,norway are found1 ,galdhpiggen1 7#h1cif feet7 and ,glittertind 7#h1chj feet7 being the highest4 ,this uninhabited region of weird grandeur has been considerably opened out to travellers in recent years by the efforts of the ,norwegian ,tourist ,club4 ,hostels1 huts1 and sters have been built1 roads and tracks improved1 safe bridges thrown over inconvenient and dangerous torrents1 and the services of trustworthy guides secured at all convenient places in this extensive district2 so that for pedestrian expeditions made through this region now1 although #aab involving much rough walking and consequent fatigue1 food and accommodation will be found1 especially if travellers enrol themselves members of the ,norwegian ,tourist ,club4 ,this ensures them certain privileges1 and preference of accommodation over all other travellers who are not members4 ,in ,lyster ,fjord we find one of the most beautiful valleys in ,sogn--,jostedalen by name4 ,thickly populated1 carefully cultivated1 and well watered by the ,jostedalselv and its tributaries1 this valley is1 like most ,norwegian valleys1 a deep ravine1 especially at its head4 ,it divides an extensive plateau of everlasting snow1 and here are numerous glaciers1 ramifications of the great ,jostedalsbr1 the most extensive ice-field in ,europe4 ,the farms and mountain sters in this fertile district are numerous and picturesquely situated4 ,the branch valleys are richly cultivated1 and the peasants are1 on the whole1 in prosperous circumstances4 #aac ,this beautiful district of ,lyster is also noted for its extensive orchards1 ,gaard 7farm7 ,kroken1 which is situated at the foot of ,krokedalen1 being the most famous4 ,near the farm an extremely fine waterfall #a1djj feet in height leaps from the crags of ,kivenaase4 ,there are several interesting old churches in the district of ,lyster--at ,dsen1 ,joranger1 and ,urns4 ,the latter church stands high on a promontory opposite the village of ,solvorn1 which is situated in a valley across the fjord4 ,urns stavkirke is considered by antiquarians to be the earliest of the wooden churches now in existence4 ,the eminence on which it stands is some #cjj feet above the fjord4 ,the church was built about the year #aajj1 at the time that ,christianity was introduced to this part of the country4 ,this was in ,king ,olaf ,kyrre's time1 the ,king who caused many churches to be built in the west country4 #aad ,both inside and outside of the church are quaint carvings1 which show unmistakable signs of early ,irish influence in the design and craftsmanship4 ,on several of the pillars inside the church are writings in runes 7runeskrift74 ,the church plate and ornaments on the altar are very quaint and ancient4 ,illustration3 ,urns church1 ,lyster1 ,sogne ,fjord ,urns stavkirke stands on the site of a yet earlier erection--a pagan temple1 some of the material of which may be traced in the existing building4 ,these pagans had evidently good taste in the choice of a site for their temple4 ,the view from this place1 overlooking the fjord to ,solvorn1 is very beautiful4 ,on the promontory below1 and near the fjord1 stands a giant's gravhaug1 or kjmpehaug 7a huge burial mound71 where1 according to local tradition1 the ,viking ,ragnvald was buried along with his magic sword4 ,there have been finds in it dating back to the ,bronze ,age4 ,near this place are several tall standing stones 7bautastein71 which evidently #aae mark the sites of prehistoric interments4 ,the fjord steamers seldom call here1 but across the fjord at ,solvorn boats may be hired to row over the short distance1 and a few hours might be agreeably spent at this beautiful and interesting place4 #aag ,,chapter ,,vii ,,the ,,nord ,,fjord ,the first impression we receive on approaching the fjords from the sea is perhaps not often a pleasant one1 especially in dull weather4 ,monotonous grey rocky islands appear to look with wicked eyes on every ship that passes by them1 as though expectant of another victim to embrace in the deep waters1 there to be torn and mangled in their cruel fangs4 ,over these rocks moan everlasting breakers1 whose weird dirge-like sound is blended with the wild shrieking of sea-birds till it almost appears that there exists some close uncanny relationship and wicked conspiracy between rocks1 birds1 and breakers4 #aah ,the steamer1 which gradually threads its way through this maze of coast-islands1 now emerges into more open water1 and presently we arrive at ,flor1 an island in the blue sea1 bright with houses1 warehouses1 and shipping4 ,quite a small town has grown up here1 and ,floro is now an important calling-place for the larger steamers and a great fishing-station4 ,in a few hours we come to the large island of ,bremanger1 on whose eastern end stands the huge towering mass of ,hornelen1 peaked and furrowed1 rising perpendicularly out of the sea1 the crags appearing even to overhang the steamer as we sail close to the mountain-wall4 ,here the heavy surges moan in a most uncanny way1 and echo in deep notes up the huge cavernous rents in the mountain-side before us4 ,according to an ancient tradition1 ,king ,olav ,trygvesson in the tenth century scaled this many-peaked mountain and rescued one of his followers who had got into danger among the crags4 #aai ,we are now at the entrance to ,nord ,fjord1 and the steamer seems to make its way towards a towering but distant mass of high mountains1 on which we discern large uneven patches of perpetual snow4 ,gradually1 as we advance1 the nearer masses of rock appear to part asunder1 in order to allow the steamer to pass through4 ,we come now into the fjord proper1 and by degrees a new attraction grows into our interest as we say good-bye to the monotonous2 for now we may see fresh and unexpected sights--large bright patches of green1 small white wooden churches and clusters of brightly painted cottages dotted here and there--and they one and all appear to extend a smile of welcome to us as we approach4 ,we hear the snow-white mountain becks breaking into waterfalls on every side as they hurry on and plunge themselves gleefully into the sparkling fjord4 ,graceful birches clothe the valleys and shelter in the rocky clefts in the mountain-sides1 while in the #abj background are those same snow-topped mountains that we have seen for the last few hours4 ,they are nearer to us now1 and as we sail from one side of the fjord to the other1 calling to take in or to discharge passengers and goods1 these same snow-crowned heights seem to follow us on our way1 as if they kept watch and ward over an enchanted land4 ,we now come to a broader stretch of fjord3 larger valleys open out to the view1 and the sky seems brighter4 ,this open space crossed1 more frequent signs of civilization meet the eye4 ,the farms are larger and the stretches of cultivated land are more extensive4 ,we now discern hayfields1 cornfields1 and potato patches4 ,the houses and farmsteads are larger and more substantial1 showing that there is a more prosperous people in these inner parts of the fjord4 ,frequent waterfalls are passed1 some of which send their spray even over the steamer's deck as they leap down the precipitous cliffs4 ,torrents come with a #aba noisy swing down the steep valleys1 turning in their course many a tiny wooden corn-mill4 ,everything around seems full of life1 and pleasant sounds meet the ear--the murmur of rocky becks1 the tinkling of sheep and cattle bells1 the plash of busy oars on the clear silvery water--and the merry voices of children are heard as they play on the pebbly strand near by4 ,the eye is refreshed by the sight of the bright cottages which are embosomed in their own little orchards surrounded by green fields1 and a background of richly wooded slopes leads up to the blue mountains above and beyond4 ,an ancient church reposing in its quiet domain gives the keynote to the whole--one of harmony1 simplicity1 and ,arcadian peace4 ,as we gaze on such a scene1 it seems to have the power to fascinate and to hold us1 as though in the grip of some unseen force of fairy magic1 and from which we tear ourselves almost unwillingly away4 #abb ,the scenery increases in grandeur the farther we penetrate1 and the mountains and valleys are more densely wooded4 ,we dip into narrow branches or ramifications of the main fjord1 where beautiful vistas open out1 and as we sail down ,gloppen ,fjord to the hamlet of ,sandene the views are especially charming4 ,illustration3 ,a salmon river1 ,stryn1 ,nord ,fjord ,from ,visns1 at the northern extremity of the innermost branch of the main ,nord ,fjord1 we can drive along the banks of a noted salmon river and visit the beautiful ,strynsvand4 ,this lake is quite surrounded by magnificent mountains1 on which lie extensive glaciers1 ,skaalan1 on our right1 being the most conspicuous4 ,around this lake are many large farms2 some are situated high up the mountains in apparently inaccessible places4 ,here also wild valleys open out in all directions1 and continue their ravines up to the bases of the glaciers4 ,at the foot of one of these ravine-like valleys1 and just underneath the massive ,skaalan1 and in a picturesque situation by the #abc lake's margin1 stands the little church of ,opstryn4 ,at ,hjelle1 at the eastern head of the lake1 a fine mountain-road has been engineered1 and this traverses the wild and romantic ,vide ,valley4 ,the view looking backward from ,vide ster is magnificent4 ,the narrow valley is hemmed in by mighty and steep mountain forms1 and ,stryns ,lake1 green with glacier water1 is seen far below1 while across the lake rises the huge mass of ,skaalan and its glacier as a background to the picture4 ,sincerity1 honesty1 and freedom from conventional cant are the chief national virtues of the ,norwegians1 although inquisitiveness is rampant in this district4 ,the outer forms of politeness are often very little observed4 ,on arriving at an inn1 the traveller is seldom welcomed by the host or hostess1 and on his departure he may not even then see them4 ,this omission may leave on the traveller the impression of neglect1 #abd but it arises partly from the people's national unobtrusiveness and simplicity of character4 ,also1 as the innkeepers are nearly all peasants1 and their chief business is farming1 this apparent neglect may thus be accounted for1 and some allowance be made4 ,on meeting with a stranger1 it is the custom with the natives of this district1 and considered by them to be the height of politeness1 to ask such questions as the following3 ,stranger out on a journey1 ,i suppose8 ,and where do you come from1 ,i wonder8 ,and what kind of business do you follow8 ,and what do they call you where you come from8 ,these rather inquisitive questions are always put very politely1 and they are usually answered in the same vein4 ,this apparent inquisitiveness is really but a conventional manner with them1 and means only an introduction to a friendly chat1 in much the same way that some people in our own country begin a conversation by commenting on the weather4 #abe ,among themselves these primitive peasants salute each other on meeting with ,godt mod 7,keep in good courage1 or good heart72 and if a neighbour should be at work2 ,gud velsigne arbeidet 7,god bless your work71 or1 on coming into a room where the family are at their meal1 the salutation is1 ,gud velsigne maden1 or signe maden 7,god bless your food74 ,many of the peasants in this district1 especially the older ones1 wear to this day quite a picturesque costume4 ,it differs in some respects from the dress of those in other districts4 ,the men wear knee-breeches of a coarse grey cloth 7vadmel7 and white1 thick stockings1 a red coat with a very high collar1 and a tall1 stiff felt hat4 ,the women wear a close-fitting red or green vest or bodice1 elaborately trimmed with silver braid back and front1 and white sleeves4 ,those who are married wear a tall cloth cap1 generally black1 and somewhat resembling in shape an elongated fireman's helmet4 #abf ,the girls usually wear on the head a coloured handkerchief4 ,in former times they wore long skirts from earliest childhood1 but latterly1 much to the disgust of elder dames1 short skirts have come into fashion4 ,in this inner district of ,nord ,fjord are three very beautiful lakes--,stryns ,vand1 which ,i have just referred to1 ,loen ,vand1 and ,olden ,vand4 ,all three are situated in the heart of scenery of the grandest character4 ,the mountains around are higher than any we have yet seen1 and glaciers and waterfalls are here more numerous4 ,the valleys are deep and narrow1 and farmsteads are few and far between2 often some five or six miles of rocky land divides them from each other4 ,some of these ancient homesteads nestle among mighty boulders which have detached themselves ages ago from precipitous crags above4 ,in spring and autumn1 after heavy rains1 these farms are still farther isolated4 #abg ,the rocky streams are then swollen into foaming torrents1 and the footpaths are destroyed1 or of very little use1 and to pay a visit to a neighbour one must either creep under a waterfall or climb up the steep mountain flank some thousand feet before being able to cross over the impetuous stream4 ,as we reach the head of a valley we come to those death-still places which have no houses1 no road1 and no name--desolate wildernesses where huge mountains embrace each other in glacier and snow-field4 ,these majestic mountains raise their peaks some #f1ejj feet into the heavens1 and they completely enclose the three enchanting lakes which form the crowning beauty of this district4 ,the bases of the mountains are clothed with splendid birch-woods1 and in the valleys near the water grow roses and other flowers--a rich and abundant flora1 which contrasts beautifully with the sombre grandeur of the surrounding #abh scenery4 ,surpassing the famous ,alpine lakes in majesty1 these of ,norway can also vie with them in charm4 ,loen ,vand may be considered quite the most characteristic and imposing of these lakes4 ,glaciers descend from all the mountains around1 the magnificent ,kjendalsbr being perhaps most conspicuous4 ,so near to the edge of the precipice do these glaciers creep that they almost appear to overhang the lake4 ,in several places it is nothing unusual to see enormous masses of ice pushed over the edge of the cliff1 and to hear them fall with a metallic rattle down the precipitous rocks1 leaving in their wake clouds of finely-powdered snow4 ,profound and impressive is this sublime nature4 ,everything is on such a grand scale that we feel as pigmies in the midst of it as we row on the deep lake1 whose still surface reflects as in a mirror every detail of the majestic scenery4 ,crags1 trees1 and farmsteads1 even sheep and cattle browsing on patches of #abi greensward--all repeat their images in reversed replica on the quiet bosom of the water4 ,in the hot days of early summer and in this clear and rarefied atmosphere this is a most enchanting sight1 and one whose treasured memories shall live for aye4 ,illustration3 ,loen ,vand and glacier1 ,nord ,fjord ,we now retrace our steps and return to join the native fjord steamer1 and here we see in process of embarking quite a lively and interesting cargo4 ,already the little steamer appears to be full4 ,we observe that sheep and cattle are put into improvised pens on deck4 ,on the crowded pier we see that yet more sheep1 lambs1 and cattle are to be taken on board4 ,other pens of wooden hurdles and anything available are hurriedly made1 and as the hold of the vessel is full already1 places are also found for the animals in the passage near the engine-room4 ,now arrive a number of goats and kids1 some of the latter being carried in the arms of bright-faced peasant girls1 who now stand on the pier to await the time when their struggling burden can be placed #acj somewhere on the crowded steamer4 ,several bony cows and calves are now unceremoniously lowered down on to the deck by the noisy crane1 each one separately in a sling4 ,these last comers are now fastened to the rails along the ship's side4 ,the lamb-pen is now tenderly covered with sackcloth as a protection from the cool night air by the red-faced1 good-natured steersman before the steamer starts4 ,these domestic animals are being transferred from the home farms to their respective sters1 which lie in other parts of the district4 ,there the cattle wax fat on the rich grazing of the high land during the summer months4 ,as we sail near the shore we may observe in certain places that a peculiar elevated staging on tall1 slender legs overhangs the water4 ,it is usually fastened to some jutting rock4 ,this contrivance is used by the peasants as a look-out for the purpose of fishing for salmon4 ,it is called a laxeverp4 ,in #aca the box-like framework at the top is placed a seat1 and from this point of vantage the fisherman is able to see down into the deep clear water and ascertain if there are any salmon in the nets below4 ,these nets he regulates by lines held in his hand1 the ends of which are attached to the mouths of the salmon nets4 ,there are usually two men out a-fishing4 ,one is seated on the laxeverp1 the other goes out in a boat to any place indicated by his companion1 draws in that part of the net1 and secures and kills his fish4 ,at one of these fjord laxeverps may be killed in the course of a day from twenty to thirty salmon in the height of the season4 ,falejde1 beautifully situated on the north side of the fjord--we are still in ,nord ,fjord--is a well-known centre for a variety of excursions4 ,visns1 however1 has taken from ,falejde in recent years a great deal of the tourist traffic1 being a more convenient starting-place for the lakes we have just spoken of1 also for the #acb new overland route to the ,geiranger district via ,vide ,valley4 ,personally1 ,i prefer the older route from ,falejde and via ,grodaas1 down the magnificent ,nordangsdal to ie1 on the ,hjrund ,fjord1 in the district of ,sndmre4 ,sidenote3 ,falejde to ie ,about the end of the month of ,may1 and beneath cloudless skies--there had been no rain to speak of for the past three weeks--,i left ,falejde to take this charming drive by kariol and sure-footed pony4 ,after a lingering farewell glance at the beautiful fjord view1 as seen from the little inn here1 we commenced our journey4 ,in the still and warm morning air one could hear the drowsy hum of bees and the clear notes of a song-bird4 ,sheep and cattle browsed on the hilly slopes1 their bells tinkling as they grazed on grass still wet with dew4 ,uphill we went1 through odoriferous pine-woods1 the roadside being fringed by an abundance of wild-strawberry in full flower1 and among moss-grown boulders #acc cranberry and whinberry bushes showed themselves in great profusion4 ,here and there are large patches of bell-heather and ling1 which still retain1 though now faded1 their last year's bloom4 ,a snow-plough by the roadside has not yet been removed1 showing how near we are to the past season1 and how closely connected with it is this warm sunny day of ,may4 ,the pine forest we are still passing through becomes denser now1 and the morning light is as twilight in this thick glade4 ,our attention is suddenly drawn to a lively squirrel1 who swings rapidly from branch to branch2 a pine marten is in full pursuit4 ,in the excitement of the chase they are both quite unobservant of passers-by1 and across the trees which overhang the road they spring1 and it is not long before the sound from the forest depths of the thin piping squeak of the hunted squirrel tells of tragedy4 ,between the tall trunks of the pine-trees we obtain occasional peeps of blue fjord #acd and snow-topped mountain forms as we drive along4 ,having now crossed the watershed1 we gradually descend1 and patches of cultivated land begin to appear on the wide valley sides4 ,passing several farms 7gaard7 we now see below us an extensive lake1 ,hornindalsvand1 along whose rocky shore we drive2 and presently we arrive at ,grodaas1 the little inn and hamlet being prettily situated in a tree-fringed bay on the lake's eastern margin4 ,surrounding this broad and beautiful lake are high mountains of picturesque form4 ,large farmsteads are here1 and well-cultivated land1 and an air of prosperity pervades the place4 ,continuing our drive along the wide valley1 ,hornindal1 we gradually ascend through more open country4 ,the snow-clad mountain-tops are nearer to us now1 and on both sides their craggy forms appear in many a quaint-shaped peak4 ,farther on1 near ,gaard ,kjelstadli1 we are at a height of about #a1djj feet above sea-level4 ,that apparently #ace inaccessible pinnacle in front of us is ,horndalsrokken 7rokken7--the distaff4 ,here we approach a magnificent mountain region1 and1 descending the steep hilly road to where it divides at ,gaard ,tryggestad--one branch going to ,hellesylt--we enter that deep and gloomy valley1 the ,nordangsdal4 ,this narrow gorge-like valley is closely hemmed in by high1 majestic1 and sharp-peaked mountains4 ,below ,gaard ,fibelstad and ,hougen1 as we descend1 this huge chasm-like valley contracts and becomes so narrow that there is barely room in some places for the rocky torrent and the road between the perpendicular mountain buttresses4 ,we now drive alongside five very narrow lakes in succession2 these completely fill up the bottom of the gorge4 ,at several places on the road we are compelled to dismount1 and walk over huge1 deep snow-patches4 ,these are the remains of winter avalanches which have not yet melted2 they stretch across the road1 and form natural bridges of hard snow over the torrent which gurgles #acf below4 ,emerging from this deep and terrible gorge1 we gradually descend1 passing on the way the sequestered hamlet of ,skylstad4 ,so enclosed is this little group of turf-roofed houses by high mountains that the inhabitants do not feel the warm sun's rays during the greater part of the year4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,hjrund ,fjord ,from this place1 by easy road1 we drive along the widening valley1 and1 passing several poor farms1 we at length arrive at ie1 a small hamlet picturesquely situated by the shores of the narrow ,norangs ,fjord1 an arm of the grand ,hjrund ,fjord4 ,by the ,norwegians themselves this is thought to be the grandest of all their fjords4 ,it is not easy to decide1 however1 as each one of them has its own particular characteristics4 ,illustration3 ,hjrlund ,fjord1 ie ,the mountains around here attain a height of some #e1jjj to #f1jjj feet4 ,their tops are peaked and pinnacled2 some even appear to lean forward1 as though ready to spring out across the fjord or valley4 ,decorative patches of snow and glacier #acg rest between their huge flanks1 and woods of hardy birch and alder clothe their bases4 ,majestic scenery is this1 of the sharp peak and pinnacle type1 and of its kind no grander is there in the whole of ,norway4 ,the mountains near ,stand up in fixed and monumental gaze1 ,as pyramids precipitous and bold4#a #a ,g4 ,gilfillan4 #aci ,,chapter ,,viii ,,the ,,norwegian ,,established ,,church ,the ,norwegian ,established ,church 7den ,norske ,statskirke7 owes its present constitution to the ,reformation1 and about the middle of the sixteenth century it became by legislation the public religion of the ,state4 ,it is known as the ,evangelical ,lutheran ,church4 ,the three creeds which together form its symbolum are the ,apostolic1 ,athanasian1 and ,nicene-,constantinople4 ,in addition to these1 there are accepted the ,augsburg ,confession and ,luther's ,shorter ,catechism4 ,the kingdom of ,norway is divided for ecclesiastical purposes into six bishoprics1 and each of these dioceses is subdivided #adj into deaneries1 of which there are eighty-three4 ,out of the deaneries are formed the separate livings 7prstegjeld74 ,these number at the present time #dhj4 ,the livings1 especially in country places1 include one or more sub-parishes1 each with its own church or chapel-of-ease4 ,sidenote3 ,ecclesiastical matters ,according to the ,norwegian law1 the ,king must always belong to the ,established ,church1 and he possesses the supreme jurisdiction in ecclesiastical affairs4 ,the ,king appoints the ,bishops1 and his sanction must be obtained to the preferment of the rest of the clergy4 ,the ,ecclesiastical ,department of the ,state has the administration of considerable sums of money that have been realized by the sale of property which belonged to the priests and monasteries in ,roman ,catholic times4 ,this money is placed to a fund which is used for the benefit of the ,lutheran clergy and as pensions for their widows1 also for the advancement of education4 ,the ,bishops are remunerated by the #ada ,state1 chiefly from the funds which were appropriated by the ,government at the time of the ,reformation4 ,the country clergy have the free use of the glebes which belong to the ,state1 and among other sources of income to the livings are the parsons' tithes and sundry rent charges on landed proprietors in the parish4 ,in the towns the tithes have largely been commuted by the municipality1 and are now paid to the clergy by the community in the form of rates1 their stipends being further augmented by voluntary contributions and by certain grants from the ,government4 ,according to a law passed in #ahig1 all the churches and churchyards in ,norway1 with a few exceptions1 will in a short time become the property of their respective congregations4 ,for this purpose a church fund is now in process of formation1 being raised by the commutation of all church tithes1 and by the addition of certain royal tithes of pre-,reformation origin4 ,the #adb proceeds of this fund will be devoted to the maintenance of1 and the repairs to1 the churches1 the deficit to be made up by the parish or municipality4 ,among the many religious efforts which are liberally supported may be mentioned the ,norwegian ,missionary ,society1 which was founded in #ahdb3 ,zululand1 ,natal1 and ,madagascar are its fields of labour2 the ,santhal ,mission in ,india2 and the ,norwegian ,lutheran ,china ,mission4 ,there are also home missions and local religious associations for the relief of the poor and the care of the sick4 ,in addition to these1 there is a mission to the ,jews4 ,great was the reluctance of the ,norwegian people to receive the reformed faith1 which they were compelled by law to do in the middle of the sixteenth century2 but they have since become loyally and deeply attached to it1 and there are probably few countries in ,europe where the ministers of religion have a greater influence in the administration #adc of the affairs of the country and the education of the people than in ,norway4 ,it has been the nation's endeavour for the last century to develop and improve the education of her children4 ,sidenote3 ,public instruction ,an effort was made by royal ordinance as early as #agci to introduce into the country a system of general school attendance1 and to arrange for the establishment of a permanent school in each parish4 ,at that time the clergy were the sole leaders in school matters1 each in his own parish1 and it is owing in a great measure to them that1 in the face of the numerous difficulties of all kinds which had to be overcome1 the school has made continual progress4 ,its development has always been in a democratic direction4 ,from a parish school for the poor1 it has become a national school1 where a general education is provided which is accessible to all members of society4 ,free and compulsory education obtains in ,norway4 ,it consists of a seven years' course4 ,in the country districts it is #add adapted for children between the ages of eight and fifteen1 and in the towns for those between seven and fourteen4 ,the reason why ,norwegian children begin their education so late in the country parishes may no doubt be attributed to the fact that they have in most cases to travel great distances in order to attend school4 ,the ,department for ,ecclesiastical ,matters and ,public ,instruction is the highest school authority in the country4 ,next follow the ,school ,directors1 one for each of the six dioceses2 these superintend the primary schools4 ,the ,bishop and ,dean also take an active part in the superintendence1 and the priest in supervising the instruction in religious knowledge4 ,there are six public colleges1 one to each diocese1 for the training of school-masters and governesses--as school-mistresses are called--for the primary schools1 and in these colleges they receive free tuition4 ,the college course extends #ade to three years2 it was formerly a two years' course4 ,there are also four private colleges1 in which a considerable number of free students are admitted and are paid for by ,government grant4 ,the ,government votes an annual sum amounting to #aj1jjj kroner 7#eee7 towards travelling scholarships for teachers in primary schools4 ,several municipalities also devote sums of money annually for the same purpose4 ,county schools 7amtsskoler71 one to each county1 are instituted as continuation schools1 and the syllabus is practically the same as that which obtains in the primary schools1 but the aim is a higher one4 ,the girls are instructed in needlework and house management1 and the boys in wood sloyd and technical drawing4 ,in some of these schools instruction is also given in gardening1 agricultural subjects1 and the ,english language4 ,in aid of these schools the ,state grants three-fourths of the total amount #adf voted by the county authorities for up-keep4 ,direct ,government grants are also made to a few ,people's ,high ,schools for advanced education4 ,there are in ,norway at the present time thirty-six working-men's colleges1 ten of these being situated in country districts4 ,the first was erected in ,christiania in #ahhe4 ,the instruction at these colleges is given in the evenings in the form of lectures on a variety of subjects4 ,the lecturers are chosen from among scientific men1 schoolmasters1 doctors1 military men1 etc4 ,the ,government grant to the working-men's colleges is equal to one-half of that which is contributed by the municipalities4 ,in addition to the foregoing there are also established a number of ,government grammar-schools 7latinskoler7 and higher grade schools1 known as gymnasia1 for those who wish to lay the foundation for a continued higher education and as a preparation for the ,university4 #adg ,the principals 7rektorer7 of these schools1 as well as the other permanent assistant-masters1 are ,government officers1 and receive their appointments from the ,king4 ,norway has only one ,university1 the ,royal ,frederik ,university in ,christiania1 founded in #ahaa4 ,the number of professors at the present time is sixty-five2 they are appointed by the ,king4 ,the leaving examination at a gymnasium 7examen artium7 entitles the successful candidate to enter his name as a student at the ,university4 ,the total number of students there is now about #a1djj1 and they receive free instruction4 ,small fees are1 however1 required for permission to enter for the various examinations4 ,the expenses of the ,university are chiefly defrayed by the ,government4 ,connected with the ,university are various laboratories1 scientific institutions1 and collections1 among them being the ,national ,library1 the ,botanical ,gardens1 the ,historical ,museum1 the ,astronomical #adh ,observatory1 and the ,meteorological ,institute4 ,theological students receive practical training at a college affiliated to the ,university4 #adi ,,chapter ,,ix ,,the ,,geiranger ,,fjord ,,to ,,molde ,leaving now the magnificent ,hjrund ,fjord1 we take the road from ie to ,hellesylt4 ,ascending the gorge of ,nordangsdal1 we again arrive at ,gaard ,tryggestad1 at which place the road branches off for ,hellesylt1 and we drive down a steep1 well-wooded valley along the banks of a mountain torrent4 ,the river thunders down a rugged chasm1 at times lost to sight in the mysterious depths of the gloomy1 cavernous gorge2 then1 emerging into the open and madly plunging over huge boulders1 it sends its spray over us in clouds as we pass4 ,the steep road descends through hanging woods of tall pine and graceful birch1 #aej and at a clearing in the forest a small farm1 surrounded by its own green fields1 is passed1 and we now obtain a glimpse of the village of ,hellesylt1 reposing down by the margin of the bright fjord of ,sunelv4 ,picturesquely perched on elevated ground above the red-tiled house-tops stands the church4 ,deep in a valley to our right repose the remains of a huge avalanche of snow1 surrounded by trees1 with whose fresh1 green foliage the white snow presents the striking contrast of winter and summer side by side4 ,the time of cherry-blossom is almost over1 but there is a wealth of apple and pear blossom in the many orchards around sunny ,hellesylt4 ,sidenote3 ie to ,helleslyt ,having had so many hours in the kariol1 it is refreshing to sit by the margin of a fjord again2 to breathe in quietude the incense-laden air1 and to listen to the faint murmur of some distant waterfall2 to watch the rays of the westering sun stream from behind the nearer mountain in an intense amber #aea glow1 deeping gradually into rose1 and illuminating the snow-topped peaks across the fjord yonder in a most enchanting way4 ,the nearer mountains are in purple shadow4 ,in one short hour the light on each ruddy top dies away1 and their colour is slowly transformed to that of cold1 silvery blue as they are one by one deserted by the sun's rays4 ,all the peaks are now of blue1 purple1 and silver--cool and refreshing to look upon4 ,hardly has the last mountain taken on his silvery hue when a light zephyr breathes softly across the sleeping waters of the fjord in a steely glitter4 ,but what is this weird light that is stealing over all ,nature in softest and most delicate blush when we expected the cool twilight8 ,it is the afterglow4 ,an ethereal rosy golden light slowly intensifies on the mountains4 ,it is more diffused than the actual direct glow from the setting sun1 and not nearly so brilliant2 but a dreamy glow1 mysterious and bewitchingly weird in the intense stillness4 #aeb ,a slight breeze disturbs the surface of the water1 and the fjord now ripples with a thousand hues from sunset sky and rosy-tinted mountains4 ,it is now fast approaching the hour of midnight4 ,almost already the first faint signs of dawn appear in the north1 where a solitary star is but barely discernible in the pale amber sky2 and as we gaze on such a scene with reverent and grateful hearts1 we offer up a pan of praise1 and thankfully store away in the treasure-house of our memory the recollection of a perfect night of ,june spent amid such romantic surroundings4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,geiranger ,fjord ,in the character of the scenery of ,geiranger in ,sndmre we have a blending of the ,alpine splendour of ,nordland1 with the wildness of ,jtunheim1 the beauty of ,hardanger1 and the grandeur of ,sogn4 ,whether we approach this fjord from the land side and drive down the splendidly engineered road in zigzag windings to the village of ,meraak1 or sail in from the main ,stor ,fjord1 we obtain an equally vivid #aec impression of ,geiranger's beauty and grandeur4 ,here the scenery of the ,sndmre district maybe said to attain its most perfect expression4 ,sogn has higher mountains1 but ,sndmre1 with its bold1 sharp peaks1 makes quite as overpowering an impression on the mind of the traveller1 attracting and captivating him with its enchanting power4 ,illustration3 ,geiranger ,fjord ,geiranger ,fjord and district are noted for beautiful waterfalls1 and from the hamlet of ,meraak1 if we row for a couple of hours1 we can visit the ,seven ,sisters ,waterfall--its proper name1 however1 is ,knivsflaafos--a bevy of falls who plunge gaily side by side down a high1 precipitous cliff into the fjord4 ,their number varies at different times according to the state of the weather1 and we are not always able to count the mystic seven4 ,other sisters appear after heavy rain1 and thus increase the family to eight or nine2 and in hot weather four only are to be seen4 #aed ,these falls1 which descend from a great height almost without touching the cliff1 seem to shoot downwards like rockets in myriads of large and small douches of water--these1 as they descend1 pierce through the fine spray which they create1 and thus cause a very pretty effect1 especially when the sun's rays cause rainbow hues to float on the delicate gauze of spray4 ,another beautiful waterfall near here is known as ,brude ,slur 7,bridal ,veil74 ,this fos descends almost as a veil from the sky-line of the high cliff1 and spreads its streamers over the face of the dark rock4 ,in stormy weather ,i have seen this waterfall lifted bodily by the wind and carried upwards into space1 to descend like rain at some distance4 ,on the opposite side of the fjord1 high up on the precipitous cliffs and in a romantic position1 is situated an old farmstead1 ,gaard ,skaggeflaa by name1 and from the rugged crags in close proximity to it is a picturesque waterfall1 ,gjeitfos 7,goat's ,fall74 #aee ,the only means of access to this lonely farm is by a dizzy goats' track1 which threads its devious way upwards from the shore of the fjord across the breast of the steep cliff4 ,in one place the track is completely blocked by an overhanging rock4 ,this is scaled by means of a ladder4 ,some years ago there lived a farmer here who refused to pay his share of the local taxes4 ,the wily farmer would never visit the village shops for provisions or other necessaries until he had first made quite sure that the lensmand 7sheriff's officer7 was not in the neighbourhood2 neither would he fish on the fjord1 only at a place just beneath the cliffs on the top of which his farm lay4 ,on one occasion the lensmand came close upon the delinquent unawares4 ,he followed him up the difficult goats' track1 climbing and slipping until he came to the ladder4 ,quickly scaling the rock1 the tricky farmer pulled up the ladder after him1 and so left the breathless and angry #aef lensmand to find his way down again1 for he was quite unable to proceed farther4 ,near to the entrance of ,geiranger ,fjord1 and among a number of large boulders which lie at the foot of the steep cliffs of ,nkkeneb 7,nyxies' ,peak7 stands an ancient gaard1 called ,sultevik4 ,at this farm an ancient outbuilding of logs1 called a rogestue1 is still used as in primitive times4 ,the exterior is unpretentious in appearance1 but the interior is quite interesting4 ,the hut is built of thick balks of timber1 and the turf-covered roof is supported by heavy beams1 which are dark with the smoke of centuries4 ,on the hard earthen floor1 rudely built of stones1 stands an elevated hearth-fire1 the smoke from which escapes through a square hole in the roof4 ,over the fire hangs an ancient iron gryte 7cauldron71 suspended from a movable wooden pole4 ,on one side of the room stands a massive bench-like table1 on the top of which was placed a large trough of wood1 which was in use for kneading dough4 ,it must have #aeg been used for centuries1 to judge from its appearance4 ,on the outside it was much worn and stained by age1 while on the inside appeared many different stratifications of meal and flour dough1 which also pointed to the fact of its being used for untold years4 ,two robust peasant girls were busy together making potato-cakes1 placing them for baking on a slab of slate which rested on stones over the peat fire4 ,through the smoke ,i could just see on a shelf a few old carved and painted wooden articles of domestic use--butter-holders1 bowls1 tankards1 and dishes--and these were in daily use4 ,a quaint iron lamp 7kole7 is suspended from a beam in the ceiling1 and this is the oldest form of lamp now to be found in the country4 ,in it fish-oil 7trail7 is burned1 and a piece of tow hangs as a wick from the lip of the open heart-shaped saucer which contains the oil4 ,this lamp will not give a brilliant light by any means1 but these simple #aeh peasants put up with it for the good and sufficient reason that they have nothing better4 ,this majestic fjord of ,geiranger is noted for great avalanches of snow1 sometimes of rocks1 which in the winter and early spring descend from the steep mountains around4 ,near ,madvik ,farm1 at the entrance to the fjord1 an unusually severe avalanche of stones and snow occurred a few years ago1 the concussion from which was felt for several miles around1 and on the water huge waves were formed1 which swept with great velocity into the neighbouring branch fjords1 and even across to ,hellesylt1 causing no little damage to property on the shore4 ,sidenote3 ,sholt to ,romsdal ,i see from my diary that the fjord steamer left ,meraak in ,geiranger at the unearthly hour of #b a4m41 and that in six hours ,i arrived at ,sholt on a fragrant morning in ,june4 ,at this place ,i hired a kariol and boy for the drive to ,vestnes4 ,in crossing the #aei extensive moorland which forms the watershed1 we met a picturesque group of farmers with their wives and children1 and the cattle1 sheep1 and goats4 ,they were on their way to the ster farms1 there to stay for the summer months4 ,a couple of rustic carts were drawn along by sturdy cream-coloured ponies1 and in the carts the youngest children sat quite comfortably among the various domestic goods and chattels which were for use up at the ster4 ,illustration3 ,meraak1 ,geiranger ,fjord ,along the side of the road1 which here crossed the bleak moorland plateau1 tall standing stakes were placed at intervals in order to guide the traveller in winter-time when the road lies buried underneath the deep snow4 ,vestnes is not an attractive place4 ,from here the town of ,molde can just be seen across the wide fjord1 but it is too far distant for the view to be at all interesting4 ,showers and sunshine alternating made the short steamer voyage from ,vestnes to #afj ,aandalsns attractive1 for the mountains of many peaks which surround the far-famed ,romsdal were in view most of the time4 ,cloud shadows chased each other among their rugged forms and over the great patches of unmelted snow which lay on their summits4 ,sidenote3 ,the ,romsdal ,the village of ,aandalsns1 or ,ns1 owes the cause of its existence entirely to the magnificent scenery amid which it is situated4 ,veblungsns is the older port of call for the fjord steamers1 but ,ns1 being more conveniently placed for travellers visiting the ,romsdal1 it has rapidly grown into favour in late years4 ,the river ,rauma1 noted for its splendid salmon-fishing1 separates the two villages4 ,seen from ,ns1 also1 the panorama of majestic mountains is much grander than from ,veblungsns4 ,on a fine summer's evening the rocks on the sharp peaks of ,romsdalshorn and ,troldtinderne 7witch pinnacles7 are all crimson and purple with the sunset1 and bright tongues of fiery cloud are often seen burning and quivering #afa about them2 and the river1 brighter than all1 flows silently down the broad valley in a glittering sheet of gold4 ,long level lines of dewy mist lie stretched along the valley1 almost hiding the mountain bases by their filmy vapour4 ,sometimes one may hear the peasant girls calling the cattle down from the hills by singing the fjeldviser--musical ditties whose notes are similar to those with which ,jenny ,lind once charmed great audiences in many lands4 ,the ,romsdal1 down which flows the river ,rauma1 is one of the grandest valleys in the whole of ,norway4 ,at ,ns the valley is wide1 and luxuriant green pastures and beautiful trees enliven the landscape4 ,romsdalshorn1 whose peaked top rises to over #e1jjj feet1 stands conspicuously at the entrance to the valley1 and near to it on the left tower the still more lofty pinnacles of ,vengetinderne1 while on the right are the strikingly picturesque ,trolltinderne 7witch pinnacles71 from whose #afb rugged sides great avalanches of snow and rocks are precipitated in winter4 ,part of the serrated ridge is known as ,brudeflge1 or ,bridal ,train4 ,farther up1 and beyond ,horgheim1 the valley becomes narrower and more ravine-like2 and here the river flows with greater impetuosity1 and threads its way through a chaos of enormous blocks of rock1 the result of some tremendous landslip4 ,illustration3 ,the mountains of ,romsdal ,at ,flatmark 7,flat ,field7 the valley becomes broader again1 and the mountain scenery around is extremely grand and impressive4 ,between here and ,ormheim several fine waterfalls are precipitated from rocks some #b1jjj feet in height1 the chief among these falls being the ,vermafos1 which assumes imposing dimensions after rain or during the melting of the snow in early summer4 ,the road now ascends the once-dreaded ,bjorneklev 7,bears' ,cliff7 in numerous windings1 and at ,stuefloten attains the height of over #b1jjj feet above fjord-level4 #afc ,at this place ends the ,romsdal1 one of the most widely celebrated routes in ,norway4 ,the river ,rauma is about thirty-seven miles long from its source at the ,lake ,lesjeskogen to the ,romsdals ,fjord1 and it is counted among the best salmon rivers in the country4 ,sidenote3 ,salmon-fishing ,salmon-fishing in the rivers is carried on with the rod as a sport1 and large sums of money are paid annually by sportsmen for the renting of rivers4 ,seine nets are also largely used by fishermen4 ,these nets are placed at the mouths of the rivers1 and in this way large hauls of fish are often made4 ,salmon is fished all along the coast from the beginning of ,may to the end of ,august1 and1 since the practice of bag-netting was introduced some fifty years ago1 the proceeds have increased enormously4 ,most of the fish is exported1 a large quantity going to ,england4 ,the fishing industry may be considered the most ancient and important means of #afd livelihood of the ,norwegian people4 ,more than a thousand years ago1 according to the old sagas1 splendid painted ships1 with sails of several colours1 sailed with fish from ,norway to ,england2 and this great industry is still one of the most important in the land1 especially the sea fisheries1 which obtain their peculiar value from the natural conditions and geographical features of an exceedingly long coast-line1 with its deep inlets and numerous islands4 ,sidenote3 ,the great sea-fisheries ,of the great sea-fisheries1 that of cod-fishing is by far the most profitable1 and in its pursuit the greatest number of men are employed4 ,it is carried on all along the coast1 but most extensively in the northern part of the country4 ,at the fishing stations in the ,lofoten ,islands alone some #dj1jjj men are employed during the first three months of the year4 ,farther south1 and especially in the wide fjords of the ,romsdal ,county1 sea-cod fishing has always been carried on #afe more extensively than at most other points along the coast4 ,cod vary in weight from #i to #bj pounds1 but they have been taken weighing as much as #ij pounds4 ,codfish is prepared1 as a rule1 either as klipfisk 7salted and rock-dried fish71 or as trfisk 7dried stock-fish74 ,the most important product1 however1 is klipfisk4 ,it is cleaned and salted at the fishing stations1 and then sent away to convenient drying-places1 where the fish is laid out on the flat rocks 7klipper7 to dry1 or on the shingly shore1 where such is found4 ,illustration3 ,romsdal ,fjord1 from ,ns ,it is an attractive and interesting sight to see the native women at work on the broad pebbly strand1 their many-coloured garments fluttering in the breeze as they turn over the thousands of fish to dry in the sun4 ,when sufficiently dry the fish is piled into circular stacks about #d feet high2 a flat wooden cover is then placed on the top1 and this is held down by boulders of stone to protect it from the force of the wind4 ,these wooden caps are usually #aff painted a bright ,indian red1 and in appearance form a lively contrast to the deep blue water of the breezy fjord and the pale pebbles on the sunny strand4 ,many thousands of tons of klipfisk are exported annually1 chiefly to ,spain4 ,the preparation of trfisk is more simple than that of salted cod4 ,the fish in this case1 when cleaned1 are usually hung up by the tail to dry in pairs1 on large wooden frames or scaffolds called hjeller4 ,next to the cod the herring fisheries are the most important in the country4 ,these fisheries vary1 however1 very considerably1 and the time during which the fish visit the coast is often of very short duration4 ,the herring shoals come in twice a year1 once in winter and once in summer or autumn2 and it sometimes happens that quite suddenly1 and as if by some stroke of magic1 the sea becomes brimful of herring1 and then after a short time it is just as suddenly empty again4 ,at such harvest-times the fishermen are very hard at work both day and night1 and have #afg barely opportunity to take their food or rest2 and as the sea is often rough1 and the weather wet and stormy1 their calling is at these times fraught with many dangers4 ,as compensation1 however1 they have their long intervals of rest--perhaps too many of them4 ,the farmer-fisherman of the fjords is in many respects better off1 as he can find other employment if his daily fishing fails for a time1 especially in the spring and summer months1 when farm work claims his attention and crops have to be harvested and housed4 ,the summer day is of long duration in ,norway4 ,during the light nights ,nature dreams1 day meets day1 and away up in the north the sun illumines the heavens by night as well as by day4 ,even in the southernmost parts of the country the setting sun barely sinks below the horizon from the end of ,april to the beginning of ,august1 consequently bright twilight prevails during the whole of that period2 but we must travel farther north and reach the polar circle before we see #afh the sun shining all through the summer night4 ,at ,bod the sun does not set from the beginning of ,june to the first week in ,july2 and at ,north ,cape the midnight sun is visible from ,may #ab to ,july #bi1 and its orb presents from that place a most weird and impressive sight4 ,in winter1 on the other hand1 twilight takes the place of daylight in these high latitudes1 and at ,north ,cape the sun is not seen from the middle of ,november to the end of ,january4 ,farther south1 however1 at ,throndhjem1 the sun rises at #aj a4m41 and sets at #b4cj p4m41 on the shortest days of winter2 and at ,bergen there are nearly six hours of daylight at that time of the year4 ,norway in winter is not quite so dreadful a place as most people would imagine4 ,after the first heavy fall of snow the days become bright and clear1 and blue skies prevail1 often for several weeks in succession1 especially in districts which lie at some distance inland from #afi the coast1 or near the heads of the larger fjords4 ,the air is here fresh and bracing1 and the five hours of sunshine during even the shortest days make walking1 sleighing1 and ski-running attractive exercises4 ,on the darkest nights of mid-winter the sky is palpitant with the luminous northern lights--the aurora borealis--which stream up from behind the dark mountains in prismatic hues of great brilliance2 and when the full moon shines on the sparkling fjord and on the deep1 crisp snow1 it is exhilarating to take a long sleigh drive over the frosty roads by the margin of the fjord1 to sup at a friend's house on an evening at ,yuletide4 ,sidenote3 ,winter sports ,the winter sports of ,norway are celebrated far and wide1 and they bid fair to become as attractive to pleasure votaries of snow and ice as are those of the ,engadine4 ,these sports are held in the month of ,february each year1 at ,holmenkollen1 near ,christiania1 and at ,throndhjem4 ,among the essentially national sports #agj held at fixed times at these centres may be mentioned that of ski-ing1 or1 properly1 skilbning 7leaping on snowshoes74 ,this is the most popular of all their sports1 and it is the means of attracting many thousands of people1 including numerous foreigners1 chiefly ,english and ,german4 ,the use of the ski 7pronounced shee7 as an easy means of locomotion is1 in the opinion of historians1 of very ancient origin1 and came to ,norway with the ,lapps long before the dawn of the ,christian era2 and from that remote time to the present the ski has been worn1 chiefly by the peasants in mountainous districts1 and is also very popular with the army4 ,as a national sport it has had a great revival in recent years1 and almost every boy and girl in the country now possess skier4 ,sidenote3 ,wild animals and game ,another form of sport for which ,norway is celebrated is that of the hunting and shooting of wild animals and game1 and in this respect it is an ideal country #aga for sportsmen4 ,in the great forests that cover rather more than one-fifth of its entire area game of all kinds is to be found4 ,among beasts of prey the bear and wolf are still common in the remoter parts of the country2 also the lynx and glutton1 although the latter is fast becoming extinct4 ,the ,government offers a reward for killing any of these animals1 including the fox1 of which there are large numbers4 ,the elk is now becoming rare1 but there are large herds of reindeer in a wild state on the mountain plateaux1 and the red deer is also found1 though less frequently than in former times4 ,illustration3 ,molde ,of the wild fowl the capercailzie is the finest1 and there are found everywhere rype 7ptarmigan71 and hazel and willow grouse4 ,the latter are without comparison the most important game in the country4 ,the most valuable of the wild-fowl1 however1 is the eider-duck1 on account of #agb its down4 ,this bird is most abundant among the northern islands1 although it is also found in large numbers at many places along the coast4 ,we have followed the principal fjords of the west country1 from ,hardanger northwards1 and now we come to ,molde4 ,this bright little town is more beautifully situated than any other in the country4 ,it lies sheltered and calm by the blue waters of the ,molde ,fjord1 over whose broad expanse are seen1 to the south and east1 the magnificent ,sndmre range of mountains1 with their many peaks and glaciers4 ,on a calm summer's evening1 when the setting sun lights up each peak and pinnacle with its golden glow1 the scene from this place is one of enchanting loveliness3 ,ye mountains hoar of earthfast stone1 ,where ancient ,thor presides alone2 ,ye fjords that smile in silver blue1 ,each rock and isle1 farewell to you4#a #a ,frithjof ,saga4 #agc ,,index ,aamdal1 #ajd ,aandalsns4 ,see ,ns ,aardal1 #aji sir 7heathen gods71 #di ,afterglow1 the1 #aej ,agriculture1 #aj ,altar1 heathen1 #ej ,andoen1 coal on1 #ajd ,animals1 wild1 #agj ,antiquarian ,society of ,christiania1 the1 #ajg ,arendal iron-ore mines1 #ajd ,ari ,frodi1 the ,skald1 #dh ,art of the ,viking ,age1 #bi1 #ca ,arts1 industrial1 #bh1 #ca ,arvedalsgrube1 #ajc ,asgaard1 #di ,astronomical ,observatory1 #adh ,atlen1 #ad ,aurlands ,fjord1 #eg1 #ic ,aurora ,borealis1 the1 #afi ,avalanches1 #hf1 #aaj1 #aeh ,bakke1 #hh ,balder1 the ,beautiful1 #di1 #fa ,balder's ,baal1 #fj ,balestrand1 #fg ,balholm1 #fg ,bear-hunting1 #gc1 #aga ,bel1 ,king1 #fh ,bergen1 #b1 #bc1 #afh -,christiania ,railway1 #id ,museum1 #cj -,voss ,railway1 #bd ,bishoprics1 the ,norwegian1 #aci ,boat-building1 #ac1 #af ,boats1 ancient forms of1 #ae ,bod1 #afh ,bohnsln1 #ad ,bojumsbr1 #ge ,bondhusbr1 #da ,borgund1 ,stav-,kirke at1 #ajg ,botanical ,gardens1 #adg ,bremanger land1 #aah ,bronze ,age1 the1 #aad ,brudeslurfos 7,bridal ,veil ,falls71 #aed ,buarbr1 #da ,capercailzie1 the1 #aga ,ceremonies1 pagan1 #di ,character1 national1 #abc ,cheese-making1 #gj ,china1 mission to1 #adb ,christiania-,bergen ,railway1 #id ,university1 #adg ,christianity1 introduction of1 #dg1 #aac ,christmas ,eve customs1 #ec1 #ef ,church1 the ,lutheran1 #aci tithes1 #ada ,churches1 ancient 7,stav-,kirker71 #bi1 #ea1 #ajg1 #aac ,climate1 #d ,coal on ,anden1 #ajd ,cod-fishing industry1 the1 #afd ,colleges1 public and private1 #add working men's1 #adf ,copper-mining1 #ajc ,costumes1 national1 #e1 #cg1 #abe ,creeds1 ,lutheran1 #aci ,customs1 primitive1 #fj1 #abd ,dances1 national1 #fb1 #fd1 #hi ,dialects1 native1 #gf1 #hd ,dioceses1 ecclesiastical1 #aci ,dsen1 #aac ,drink traffic1 the1 #ai ,drives by kariol1 #bd1 #acb1 #adi1 #aeh ,drying fish1 method of1 #afe ,dyrdal1 #hj ,eagles1 golden1 #ia ,ecclesiastical dioceses1 #aci ,eddas1 the1 #dg ,education1 ,government grants to1 #adc1 #adf ,eide1 #bd ,eiderduck1 the1 #aga ,eidfjord1 #de ,elk1 the1 #aga ,embroidery1 native1 #cb ,english ,church1 an1 #fh language taught1 #ade ,erlingsn1 ,magnus1 #gg ,espelandsfos1 #dj ,espelandsvand1 #bf ,fairy tales1 #eb ,falejde1 #aca ,farming1 #g ,fibelstad ,haugen1 #ace ,fiddle1 the ,hardanger1 #cc ,fimreite1 sea fight off1 #gg ,finland1 #ba ,finn sorcery1 #eg ,fires1 ,st4 ,john's1 #fj ,fireside sagas1 #eb ,fishing industry1 the1 #af1 #afc ,fjrland1 #ea1 #gc ,fjord formation1 #aaj ,flaamsdal1 #id ,flatmark1 #afb ,flor1 #aah ,folgefond snowfield1 the1 #bh1 #dj ,folklore1 #eb ,food of peasants1 #ag ,forestry1 #ie ,fox1 the1 #aga ,framns1 #fh ,fresvikbr1 #ie ,freya1 #di ,frithjof's ,saga1 #fg1 #agb ,frnningen1 #ie ,fruit-growing1 #aa ,galdhpiggen1 #aaa ,game1 #agj ,geiranger ,fjord1 #acb1 #adi ,glacial action1 #dj1 #dc ,glittertind1 #aaa ,gloppen ,fjord1 #abb ,glutton1 the1 #aga ,goat-fanning1 #bf1 #cf ,gods1 pagan1 #dh ,gothenburg ,system1 the1 #ai ,government ,grants to ,education1 #adc1 #adf ,gravehalsen ,tunnel1 #id ,graven ,lake1 #de ,grazing1 cattle1 #fi ,greek ,skipper's ,tale1 a1 #ee ,greenland1 #dj ,grodaas1 #acb ,grouse-shooting1 #aga ,gudbrandsdal1 #cb1 #aje ,gudvangen1 #he1 #ib ,haakonshal1 #c ,haarfagre1 ,king ,harald1 #dg ,hallingdal1 #id ,halling dance1 the1 #fd1 #hi ,hamar1 #aja ,hanseatic ,league1 the1 #b1 #ajj ,harbarslj1 the ,edda1 #ag ,hardanger costume1 #e1 #cg fiddler1 the1 #fd violin1 the1 #cc ,heathen superstition1 #dh temples1 #di ,hedemarken ,amt1 #ih ,helleristninger 7,runes71 #ac ,hellesylt1 #ace1 #adi1 #aeh ,herring-fishing industry1 the1 #af1 #aff ,high-seat pillars 7stolper71 #ej ,hjelle1 #abc ,hjrund ,fjord1 #acb1 #acf1 #adi ,holmenkollen1 #afi ,home farm1 life on the1 #g1 #ha industry1 #cj1 #cb ,horgheim1 #afb ,horndalsrokken1 #ace ,hornelen1 #aah ,hornindalsvand1 #acd ,horticulture1 #aj ,house-building1 #g1 #ha ,hove 7a heathen temple71 #di ,huldr on1 #ec ,human sacrifices1 #ej ,hunting1 #agj ,husbandry1 #aj ,ice ,age1 the1 #dj ,iceland1 #dg ,icelandic literature1 #dh1 #fa ,ildhus1 an1 #i ,images1 pagan1 #ej ,india1 ,santhal ,mission to1 #adb ,industrial ,arts1 #cj1 #cb ,ingeborg1 #fh ,inquisitiveness1 native1 #abd ,instruction1 ,department of ,public1 #add ,irish ornament1 early1 #bi1 #aad ,iron-ore mines1 #ajc ,jews1 mission to the1 #adb ,jondal1 #ac ,joranger1 #aac ,jordalsnuten1 #ij1 #ib ,jostedalen1 #aab ,jostedalsbr1 #ge1 #aab ,jtunheim1 #de1 #aaa ,kaldafjeld1 #ib ,kariol1 drives by1 #bd1 #acb1 #adi1 #aeh ,kaupanger1 #gg ,kilefos1 #ib ,kinservik1 #bh ,kitchen1 an ancient 7,rgestue71 #aef ,kjelstadli1 #acd ,kjendalsbr1 #abh ,klipfisk1 #afe ,knivsflaafos1 #aec ,kongensgrube1 #ajc ,kongsberg silver mines1 #ajc ,krokedalen1 #aac ,kyrre1 ,king ,olaf1 #b1 #aac ,laatefos1 #dj ,lrdalsbrn1 #bi1 #aje ,lamps1 ancient1 #aeg ,land-tenure1 #ab ,laplander4 ,see ,finn ,laxeverp1 a1 #acj ,legendary lore1 #eb ,leirvaag1 #ad ,lensmand1 a 7sheriff's officer71 #aee ,lesjeskogen ,lake1 #afc ,lind1 ,jenny1 #afa ,liquor laws1 the1 #ai ,literature1 ,icelandic1 #dh1 #fa ,loen ,vand1 #abf ,lofoten ,islands1 the1 #afd ,lur1 a1 #gb ,lutheran ,church1 the1 #f1 #aci ,lynx1 the1 #aga ,lyster ,fjord1 #aaj ,magnus ,erlingsn1 #gg ,margaret1 ,princess1 ,maid of ,norway1 #gh ,marriage customs1 #fd1 #hg ,mauranger ,fjord1 #da ,meraak1 #aeb1 #aeh ,merman1 a1 #fj ,meteorological ,institute1 #adh ,midnight1 sun at1 #afg ,midsummer's ,eve fires1 #fj ,mining industry1 the1 #ajc ,missionary societies1 #adb ,mock wedding1 a1 #fb ,molde1 #aei1 #agb ,mundal1 #ge ,music1 national1 #cc ,muspelheim1 #di ,myrdal station1 #id ,mythology1 pagan1 #dh ,nrdal1 #hf ,nrfjord1 #hj ,ns1 #afj ,natal and ,madagascar1 mission to1 #adb ,national character1 #abc collections1 #adg costume1 #e1 #cg sports1 #afi ,niffelheim1 #di ,niflung ,saga1 the1 #cj ,niord1 #di ,norangsfjord1 #acf ,nordangsdal1 #ace1 #adi ,nord ,fjord1 #aag ,nordland1 #ae1 #aeb ,north ,cape1 the1 #afh ,northern ,lights1 the1 #afi ,norway in winter1 #afh ,norwegian ,established ,church1 the1 #aci missionary societies1 #adb ,tourist ,club1 the1 #aaa ,odde1 #bg1 #ce1 #da ,odin1 #dh ie1 #acb1 #adi ,olaf ,kyrre1 ,king1 #b1 #gh1 #aac ,olav ,trygvessn1 ,king1 #dh1 #aah ,olden vand1 #abf ,ormheim1 #afb ,oscar ,,ii41 ,king1 #ge stens1 #bi ,pagan mythology1 #dh temple1 a1 #di1 #aad ,peasant proprietorship1 #ab ,pilot1 the ,norwegian1 #a ,posting1 #bc1 #acb1 #adi1 #aeh ,ptarmigan1 the1 #aga ,quaint customs1 #fa1 #fc1 #abd form of greeting1 a1 #abd ,queer story of a ,finn1 #eg ,ragnvald1 ,earl1 #aad ,rambren ,glacier1 #ie ,rauma1 the ,river1 #afj ,reformation1 the1 #adj ,reindeer1 #aga ,ringdals-fos1 #ce -vand1 #cg ,rites1 heathen sacrificial1 #di ,river fisheries1 #afc ,rock carvings1 ancient1 #ac ,roldal1 #cf1 #da ,romsdal1 #afj ,rros copper mines1 #ajc ,rosendal1 #ac ,rosenkranz1 barony of1 #ac ,runic inscriptions1 #ac1 #ajg ,rype 7ptarmigan71 #aga ,sacrificial rites1 pagan1 #di ,smundar ,edda1 the #ag ,ster girl's tale1 a1 #ed life at a1 #fh ,sagas1 the1 #dg1 #fa ,saint ,john's fires1 #fj ,salmon-fishing1 #acj1 #afc ,samlag1 the1 #ba ,sandene1 #abb ,sandven ,lake1 #de ,santhal ,mission to ,india1 the1 #adb ,scholarships1 travelling #ade ,schools1 ,church1 #adc ,continuation1 #ade ,forestry1 #aja ,grammar1 #adf ,gymnasia1 #adf ,national ,primary #add ,people's ,high1 #adf ,scientific institutions1 #adg ,sea-fisheries1 the1 #afc serpent1 a1 #fj ,seine nets1 #afc ,seljestad1 #da ,seven ,sisters' ,waterfall1 the1 #aec ,ship-building1 #ac ,ships1 ,viking1 #ad ,silver mines1 #ajc ,sivlefos1 #ib ,skaalan1 #abb ,ski 7a snow-shoe71 #ii1 #agj ,skjggedalsfos1 #ce ,skjrvefos1 #bf ,skjolden1 #aaa ,slinde1 #gg ,snorre ,sturlasn1 the ,skald1 #dh ,snow-shoes 7ski71 #ii1 #agj ,society for the ,preservation of ,norwegian ,monuments of ,antiquity1 #ea ,sogndal1 #gg ,sogne ,fjord1 #fg ,sholt1 #aeh ,solvorn1 #aac ,sdmre1 #acb1 #aeb ,sr ,fjord1 #bg1 #dj ,sorcery1 ,finn1 #eg ,spinning wool1 #h ,spitsbergen1 #dj ,sports1 national1 #afi ,stalheim1 #ij ,standing stones1 pre-historic1 #aad ,staple food of peasants1 #ag ,state and religion1 the1 #aci forests1 #ajj mines1 #ajc ,stavanger1 #b1 #bc ,steamer1 on board1 #a1 #gh1 #ie1 #aah1 #abi ,steganaase1 #hd1 #ic ,stor ,fjord1 #aeb ,storvatsgrube1 #ajc ,strynsvand1 #abb ,stuefloten1 #afb ,styve1 #hd ,sulitjelma mines1 #ajd ,sultevik farm1 #aef ,suuelvfjord1 #aej ,sun-worship1 #fj ,superstitious beliefs1 #ec ,suphellebr1 #ge ,suphelledal1 #gc ,sverre1 ,king1 #gg ,sweden1 #ba ,tapestry-weaving1 #ca ,tegner's ,frithjof ,saga1 #fg1 #agb ,telemarken1 #cb1 #ajd ,temples1 pagan1 #di ,teren1 #da ,textile fabrics1 ancient1 #ca ,theological college1 #adh ,thor1 the ,thunderer1 #dh ,throndhjem1 #aje1 #afh ,timber-felling1 #ii ,tithes1 church1 #ada ,trfisk1 #afe ,tourist ,club1 the ,norwegian1 #aaa ,travelling scholarships1 #ade ,trolds1 #di1 #ec1 #ei ,troldtinderne1 #afj ,tryggestad farm1 #ace1 #adi ,trygvessn1 ,king ,olav1 #dh1 #aah ,tyssedal1 #ce ,tyssestrngenefos1 #ci ,ullensvang1 #bg ,ulvik1 #bd1 #bf ,underdal1 #eg1 #id ,underworld1 the1 #ed ,university1 ,royal ,frederik1 #adg ,urns1 ,stav-,kirke at1 #aac ,vadheim1 #fg ,valahei mines1 the1 #ajd ,valdres1 #aje ,valhalla1 #di ,valkyries1 #di ,valleys1 formation of1 #dc1 #ajf ,vasenden1 #bf ,veblungsns1 #afj ,vengetinderne1 #afa ,vermafos1 #afb ,vestnes1 #aeh ,vetle ,fjord1 #ea ,vettisfos1 #aaj ,vide ,ster1 #abc1 #acb ,vik in ,sogn1 #bi1 #ea ,stav-,kirke at1 #ea ,viking ,age1 the1 #dg1 #dh1 #fh ships1 #ad1 #bi ,violin1 the ,hardanger1 #cc ,visns1 #abb1 #aca ,volsung ,saga1 the1 #cj ,vringfos1 #dj ,vossevangen1 #bd1 #bi1 #he1 #ic1 #aja -,bergen ,railway1 #bd ,warships of the ,vikings1 #ad1 #bi ,waterfalls1 the highest1 #ce1 #dj1 #aaj ,weddings1 customs at1 #fd1 #hg ,wild animals1 #agj ,winter in ,norway1 #he1 #afg sports1 #afi ,witchcraft1 #eh ,wolves1 #aga ,wood-carving1 #bh1 #cj -cutting1 #ie ,wool-spinning1 #h ,working-men's colleges1 #adf ,younger ,edda1 the1 #dh ,yuletide customs1 #fa ,zululand1 mission to1 #adb ,,the ,,end ,,billing ,,and ,,sons1 ,,ltd41 ,,printers1 ,,ouildford 99 99 99 99 99 ,,uniform ,,with ,,this ,,volume4 ,,paris4 ,painted by ,,mortimer ,,menpes1 ,r4,i4 ,text by ,,dorothy ,,menpes4 ,containing #bd full-page illustrations in colour1 and numerous line illustrations in the text4 ,large crown #hvo41 cloth1 gilt top4 ,price #fs4 net4 ,,jamaica4 ,painted by ,a4 ,s4 ,,forrest4 ,described by ,,john ,,henderson4 ,containing #bd full-page illustrations in colour4 ,large crown #hvo41 cloth1 gilt top4 ,price #fs4 net4 ,the text and illustrations of this volume are reprinted from ,the ,west ,indies which was published a little over a year ago1 in the #bjs4 net series of ,black's ,beautiful ,books1 and is now out of print4 ,,the ,,upper ,,engadine4 ,painted by ,j4 ,,hardwicke ,,lewis4 ,described by ,s4 ,c4 ,,musson4 ,containing #bd full-page illustrations in colour and a sketch map4 ,large crown #hvo41 cloth1 gilt top4 ,price #fs4 net4 ,perhaps the best way to convey some idea of the ,engadine to the untravelled ,britisher is to describe it as a lofty valley sixty miles in length with a mean altitude as high as ,ben ,nevis4 ,as may be imagined1 the air at this height is most bracing1 and the mountain scenery sublime in the extreme4 ,picturesque villages and lakes dot the valley1 and an almost level road runs through its entire length4 ,mr4 ,j4 ,hardwicke ,lewis1 in his water-colour sketches which are reproduced in this volume1 gives us many delightful glimpses of its beautiful scenery4 ,in some we see the valley clothed in its rich summer glory1 in others it has donned its winter mantle of snow1 and always overlooking it are the solitary mountain-tops where snow and ice are eternal4 ,mr4 ,musson in the text of the book describes the varied scenery of the region1 and the chief resorts of the cosmopolitan crowd that gathers there1 with incidental notices of its peculiar geology and flora1 and a short sketch of its chequered history4 ,,north ,,devon4 ,painted by ,,henry ,b4 ,,wimbush4 ,described by ,f4 ,j4 ,,snell4 ,containing #bf full-page illustrations in colour4 ,large crown #hvo41 cloth1 gilt top4 ,price #fs4 net4 ,mr4 ,wimbush has given us twenty-six glimpses of ,north ,devon which are gems4444 ,mr4 ,snell has endeavoured to avoid the guide-book style in his descriptive matter1 and has succeeded4--,daily ,news4 ,,south ,,devon4 ,painted by ,c4 ,e4 ,,hannaford4 ,described by ,,charles ,,rowe1 ,m4,j4,i4 ,containing #bd full-page illustrations in colour4 ,large crown #hvo41 cloth1 gilt top4 ,price #fs4 net4 ,this book deals with an area abounding in places of historical interest1 and it has a pictorial quality quite distinct from that of the northern portion of the shire1 which already forms the subject of a companion volume in the same series4 ,,liverpool4 ,painted by ,j4 ,,hamilton ,,hay4 ,described by ,,walter ,,scott4 ,containing #bd full-page illustrations in colour4 ,large crown #hvo41 cloth1 gilt top4 ,price #fs4 net4 ,this book is published in the year of the #gjjth anniversary of ,liverpool's first charter1 but it aims at being something more than a mere historical outline of the city's growth4 ,for modern ,liverpool is almost entirely a product of the nineteenth century1 and ,mr4 ,scott has therefore regarded it as his duty1 less to offer a rchauff of the facts relating to her development in the past1 than to endeavour to mirror in words the vital aspect which she presents to the world to-day4 ,the twenty-four water-colours reproduced in facsimile in the volume were specially painted for the book by ,mr4 ,hay4 ,they are an effective series of pictures in sympathy with the text they illustrate1 and thoroughly typical of the great city they represent4 ,,ireland4 ,painted by ,,francis ,s4 ,,walker1 ,r4,h4,a4 ,described by ,,frank ,,mathew4 ,containing #cb full-page illustrations in colour4 ,large crown #hvo41 cloth1 gilt top4 ,price #fs4 net4 ,the text and illustrations of this volume are taken from ,ireland1 in the #bjs series of ,black's ,beautiful ,books4 ,in the series of ',coloured ,books' which ,messrs4 ,a4 and ,c4 ,black have published few have the distinction of that on ',ireland1' a new and cheaper edition of which has now been issued4444 ,mr4 ,frank ,mathew is responsible for the letterpress1 and it is a pleasure to come across work so careful1 so well informed1 and so admirable in style4444 ,the pictures in this volume are by ,mr4 ,francis ,s4 ,walker4 ,we dealt with them when the book appeared in its larger size1 and it only remains to be said now that they are interesting and sympathetic4--,manchester ,courier4 ,,published ,,by ,a4 ,c4 ,,black1 #d1 ,,soho ,,square1 ,,london1 ,w4