,transcriber's ,note3 ,minor typographical errors have been corrected without note4 ,irregularities and inconsistencies in the text have been retained as printed4 ,words printed in italics are marked with underscores3 italics4 ,the cover of this ebook was created by the transcriber and is hereby placed in the public domain4 ,illustration3 ,,sprig ,,of ,,borage ,,in ,,glass ,,cup ,,of ,,the ,,third ,,or ,,fourth ,,century4 ,london ,published by ,john ,van ,voorst ,paternoster ,row4 ,,cups ,,and ,,their ,,customs ,touch brim6 touch foot6 the wine is red1 ,and leaps to the lips of the free2 ,our wassail true is quickly said1-- ,comrade6 ,i drink to thee6 ,touch foot6 touch brim6 who cares8 who cares8 ,brothers in sorrow or glee1 ,glory or danger each gallantly shares3 ,comrade6 ,i drink to thee6 ,touch brim6 touch foot6 once again1 old friend1 ,though the present our last draught be2 ,we were boys--we are men--we'll be true to the end3 ,brother6 ,i drink to thee6 ,,second ,,edition4 ,,london3 ,,john ,,van ,,voorst1 ,,paternoster ,,row4 ,,mdccclxix4 ,,printed ,,by ,,taylor ,,and ,,francis1 ,,red ,,lion ,,court1 ,,fleet ,,street4 ,,preface4 ,the principal object of these pages is to furnish a collection of recipes for the brewing of compound drinks1 technically called ,cups1 all of which have been selected with the most scrupulous attention to the rules of gastronomy1 and their virtues tested and approved by repeated trials4 ,these we are inclined to put into type1 from a belief that1 if they were more generally adopted1 it would be the means of getting rid of a great deal of that stereotyped drinking which at present holds sway at the festive boards of ,england4 ,in doing this1 we have endeavoured to simplify the matter as much as possible1 adding such hints and remarks as may prove serviceable to the uninitiated1 whilst we have discarded a goodly number of modern compounds as unpalatable and unscientific4 ,as1 in this age of progress1 most things are raised to the position of a science1 we see no reason why ,bacchanology1 if the term please our readers1 should not hold a respectable place1 and be entitled to its due mead of praise2 so1 by way of introduction1 we have ventured to take a cursory glance at the customs which have been attached to drinking from the earliest periods to the present time4 ,this1 however1 we set forth as no elaborate history1 but only as an arrangement of such scraps as have from time to time fallen in our way1 and have helped us to form ideas of the social manners of bygone times4 ,we have selected a sprig of ,borage for our frontispiece1 by reason of the usefulness of that pleasant herb in the flavouring of cups4 ,elsewhere than in ,england1 plants for flavouring are accounted of rare virtue4 ,so much are they esteemed in the ,east1 that an anti-,brahminical writer1 showing the worthlessness of ,hindu superstitions1 says1 ,they command you to cut down a living and sweet basil-plant1 that you may crown a lifeless stone4 ,our use of flavouring-herbs is the reverse of this justly condemned one2 for we crop them that hearts may be warmed and life lengthened4 ,and here we would remark that1 although our endeavours are directed towards the resuscitation of better times than those we live in1 times of heartier customs and of more genial ways1 we raise no lamentation for the departure of the golden age1 in the spirit of ,hoffmann von ,fallersleben1 who sings3-- ,would our bottles but grow deeper1 ,did our wine but once get cheaper1 ,then on earth there might unfold ,the golden times1 the age of gold6 ,but not for us2 we are commanded ,to go with temperance even-handed4 ,the golden age is for the dead3 ,we've got the paper age instead6 ,for1 ah6 our bottles still decline1 ,and daily dearer grows our wine1 ,and flat and void our pockets fall2 ,faith6 soon there'll be no times at all6 ,this is rather the cry of those who live that they may drink1 than of our wiser selves1 who drink that we may live4 ,in truth1 we are not dead to the charms of other drinks1 in moderation4 ,the apple has had a share of our favour1 being recommended to our literary notice by an olden poet-- ,praised and caress'd1 the tuneful ,phillips sung ,of cyder famed1 whence first his laurels sprung2 and we have looked with a friendly eye upon the wool of a porter-pot1 and involuntarily apostrophized it in the words of the old stanza1 ,rise then1 my ,muse1 and to the world proclaim ,the mighty charms of porter's potent name1 without the least jealous feeling being aroused at the employment of a ,muse whose labours ought to be secured solely for humanity2 but a cup-drink1 little and good1 will1 for its social and moral qualities1 ever hold the chief place in our likings4 ,lastly1 although we know many of our friends to be first-rate judges of pleasant beverages1 yet we believe that but few of them are acquainted with their composition or history in times past4 ,should1 therefore1 any hints we may have thrown out assist in adding to the conviviality of the festive board1 we feel we shall not have scribbled in vain2 and we beg especially to dedicate this bagatelle to all those good souls who have been taught by experience that a firm adhesion to the pigskin1 and a rattling galopade to the music of the twanging horn and the melody of the merry ,pack1 is the best incentive to the enjoyment of all good things1 especially good appetite1 good fellowship1 and ,,good ,,health4 444444 ,and1 although alone1 ,we'll drain one draught in ,memory of many a joyous ,banquet past4 ,,preface ,,to ,,the ,,second ,,edition4 ,the ,second ,edition of this book contains much additional matter1 all of which has been derived from notes collected by one of the original authors of the work1 whose untimely death is mourned1 and whose genial hospitality is remembered1 by very many friends4 ,the compiler believes that the additions made will greatly increase the usefulness of the book to all compounders of ,cups4 ,,cups ,,and ,,their ,,customs4 4444 ,then shall our names1 ,familiar in their mouths as household words1 ,be in their flowing cups freshly remember'd4 ,as in all countries and in all ages drinking has existed as a necessary institution1 so we find it has been invariably accompanied by its peculiar forms and ceremonies4 ,but in endeavouring to trace these1 we are at once beset with the difficulty of fixing a starting-point4 ,if we were inclined to treat the subject in a rollicking fashion1 we could find a high antiquity ready-made to our hands in the apocryphal doings of mythology1 and might quote the nectar of the gods as the first of all potations2 for we are told that ,when ,mars1 the ,god of ,war1 of ,venus first did think1 ,he laid aside his helm and shield1 and mix'd a drop of drink4 ,but it is our intention1 at the risk of being considered pedantic1 to discourse on customs more tangible and real4 ,if we are believers in the existence of pre-,adamite man1 the records he has left us1 in the shape of flint and stone implements1 are far too difficult of solution to be rendered available for drinking-purposes1 or to assist us in forming any idea of his inner life3 we must therefore commence our history at the time 444444 when ,god made choice to rear ,his mighty champion1 strong above compare1 ,whose drink was only from the limpid brook4 ,nor need we pause to dilate on the quality of this primval draught2 for ,adam's ale has always been an accepted world-wide beverage1 even before drinking-fountains were invented1 and will continue till the end of time to form the foundation of every other drinkable compound4 ,neither was it necessary for the historian to inform us of the vessel from which our grand progenitor quaffed his limpid potion1 since our common sense would tell us that the hollowed palm of his hand would serve as the readiest and most probable means4 ,to trace the origin of drinking-vessels1 and apply it to our modern word cup1 we must introduce a singular historical fact1 which1 though leading us to it by rather a circuitous route1 it would not be proper to omit4 ,we must go back to a high antiquity if we would seek the derivation of the word1 inasmuch as its ,celtic root is nearly in a mythologic age1 so far as the written history of the ,celts is concerned--though the barbarous custom from which the signification of our cups or goblets is taken 7that of drinking mead from the skull of a slain enemy7 is proved by chronicles to have been in use up to the eleventh century4 ,from this1 a cup or goblet for containing liquor was called the ,skull or ,skoll1 a root-word nearly retained in the ,icelandic ,skal1 ,skaal1 and ,skyllde1 the ,german ,schale1 the ,danish ,skaal1 and1 coming to our own shores1 in the ,cornish ,skala4 ,so ale-goblets in ,celtic were termed ,kalt-skaal2 and1 though applied in other ways1 the word lingers in the ,highland ,scotch as ,skiel 7a tub71 and in the ,orkneys the same word does duty for a flagon4 ,from this root1 though more immediately derived from ,scutella1 a concave vessel1 through the ,italian ,scodella and the ,french ,ecuelle 7a porringer71 we have the homestead word ,skillet still used in ,england4 ,there is no lack1 in old chronicles1 of examples illustrative of that most barbarous practice of converting the skull of an enemy into a drinking-cup4 ,warnefrid1 in his work ',de ,gestis ,longobard41' says1 ,albin slew ,cuminum1 and having carried away his head1 converted it into a drinking-vessel1 which kind of cup with us is called ,schala4 ,the same thing is said of the ,boii by ,livy1 of the ,scythians by ,herodotus1 of the ,scordisci by ,rufus ,festus1 of the ,gauls by ,diodorus ,siculus1 and of the ,celts by ,silius ,italicus4 ,hence it is that ,ragnar ,lodbrog1 in his death-song1 consoles himself with the reflection1 ,i shall soon drink beer from hollow cups made of skulls4 ,in more modern times1 the middle ages for example1 we find historic illustration of a new use of the word1 where ,skoll was applied in another though allied sense4 ,thus it is said of one of the leaders in the ,gowryan conspiracy that he did drink his skoll to my ,lord ,duke1 meaning that the health of that nobleman was pledged2 and again1 at a festive table1 we read that the scoll passed about2 and1 as a still better illustration1 ,calderwood says that drinking the king's skole meant the drinking of his cup in honour of him1 which1 he adds1 should always be drank standing4 ,in more modern times1 however1 drinking-cups have been formed of various materials1 all of which have1 at least in regard to idea1 a preferable and more humane foundation than the one from which we derive the term4 ,thus1 for many centuries past1 gold and silver vessels of every form and pattern have been introduced1 either with or without lids1 and with or without handles4 ,,hanap is the name of a small drinking-cup of the #aeth and #afth centuries1 made usually of silver1 gilt1 standing upon feet4 ,they were made at ,augsburgh and ,nuremberg4 ,in an old ,french translation of ,genesis1 we find at v4 #e1 c4 xliv43--,le ,hanap que vous avez amble est le ,hanap mon ,seignor1 et quel il solort deleter1 male chose avez fait1 relating to the silver cup ,joseph ordered to be put in his brother's sack4 ,in some ,scotch songs a drinking-cup is called cogne or cog3 this word is also spelt in different parts of ,scotland cogie1 and coig4 ,this word may be compared with coculum 7medical ,latin for a hollow wooden vessel71 also with the old ,german kouch1 and the ,welsh cawg1 a basin4 ,the ,flemish drinking-cups of the #afth and #agth centuries were called vidricomes1 i4e4 come-agains4 ,the bell-shaped drinking-glasses of the sixteenth century are specially worthy of observation2 and there are three very good specimens in the ,bernal ,collection at the ,south-,kensington ,museum1 one of which is said to be ,german1 and the others ,venetian4 ,the mounting of the ,german glass consists of a hollow sphere in silver1 which encloses a dice and is surmounted by a small statuette of ,fortune4 ,to the mounting of another of these glasses is attached a little bell4 ,these glasses will stand in the reversed position only1 and were of course intended to be emptied at one draught1 the dice being shaken or the bell tinkled as a finale to the proceeding4 ,there is also a curious cup in the possession of the ,vintners' ,company1 representing a milk-maid carrying a pail on her head4 ,this pail is set on a swivel1 and is so contrived that the uninitiated1 when attempting to drink1 invariably receive its contents on their neck or chest4 ,in the last century it was very fashionable to convert the egg of the ostrich or the polished shell of the cocoa-nut1 set in silver1 into a drinking-vessel4 ,many varieties of tankards were formerly in use1 among which we may mention the ,peg-tankard and the ,whistle-tankard1 the latter of which was constructed with a whistle attached to the brim1 which could be sounded when the cup required replenishing 7from which1 in all probability1 originated the saying1 ,if you want more1 you must whistle for it72 or1 in more rare instances1 the whistle was so ingeniously contrived at the bottom of the vessel that it would sound its own note when the tankard was empty4 ,the ,peg-tankard was an ordinary-shaped mug1 having in the inside a row of eight pins1 one above another1 from top to bottom3 this tankard held two quarts1 so that there was a gill of ale1 i4e4 half a pint1 ,winchester measure1 between each pin4 ,the first person who drank was to empty the tankard to the first peg or pin1 the second was to empty to the next pin1 and so on2 the pins were therefore so many measures to the compotators1 making them all drink alike2 and as the space between each pin was such as to contain a large draught of liquor1 the company would be very liable by this method to get drunk1 especially when1 if they drank short of the pin1 or beyond it1 they were obliged to drink again4 ,for this reason1 in ,archbishop ,anselm's ,canons1 made in the ,council in ,london in #aajb1 priests are enjoined not to go to drinking-bouts1 nor to drink to pegs4 ,this shows the antiquity of the invention1 which1 at least1 is as old as the ,conquest4 ,there is a cup now in the possession of ,henry ,howard1 ,esq41 of ,corby ,castle1 which is said to have belonged to ,thomas ,becket4 ,it is made of ivory1 set in gold1 with an inscription round the edge of it1 ,drink thy wine with joy2 and on the lid are engraved the words ,sobrii estote1 with the initials ,t4 ,b4 interlaced with a mitre1 from which circumstance it is attributed to ,thomas ,becket1 but in reality is a work of the #afth century4 ,whitaker1 in his ',history of ,craven'1 describing a drinking-horn belonging to the ,lister family1 says1 ,wine in ,england was first drank out of the mazer-bowl1 afterwards out of the bugle-horn4 ,the mazer-bowls were made from maple-wood1 so named from the ,german ,maser1 a spotted wood4 ,mr4 ,shirley possesses a very perfect mazer-bowl of the time of ,richard ,,ii4 7#acgg-ii74 ,the bowl is of light mottled wood highly polished1 with a broad rim of silver gilt1 round the exterior of which are the following lines3-- ,in the name of the ,trinite ,fill the kup and drinke to me4 ,mr4 ,milner1 in ',archeologia1' vol4 xi4 p4 #daa1 describes a maple-wood tankard1 belonging to ,lord ,arundel1 as of ,saxon workmanship coeval with ,edgar1 ,a4,d4 #hjj1 who also passed a law1 on the suggestion of ,st4 ,dunstan1 to prevent excessive drinking1 by ordering cups to be marked into spaces by pegs1 that the quantity taken might be limited4 ,a considerable number of these ancient maple-wood tankards also exist in the ,museum at the ,castle of ,rosenburg4 ,they were formerly made by the ,norwegian peasants during the long winter nights2 and their style of ornament cannot be older than the #afth century4 ,contemporaneous with mazer-bowls were others called ,piggins1 ,naggins1 ,whiskins1 ,kannes1 ,pottles1 ,jakkes1 ,pronnet-cups and ,beakers4 ,silver bowls were next introduced2 and about the latter end of ,elizabeth's reign these were superseded1 as wine grew dearer and men were temperate1 by glasses4 ,the earliest glasses used at banquets were ,venetian and no mention is made of glasses at state banquets before the time of ,elizabeth4 ,in the latter half of the last century1 beer was usually carried from the cellar to the table in large tankards made of leather1 called ,blackjacks1 some of which are still to be found1 as also smaller ones more refined in their workmanship1 and having either an entire lining of silver1 or a rim of silver to drink from1 on which it was customary to inscribe the name of the owner1 together with his trade or occupation4 ,tygs were two-handled drinking-cups of the time of ,elizabeth1 rudely formed of ,staffordshire fire-clay called ,tyg4 ,at the end of the last century1 glasses were manufactured of a taper form1 like a tall champagne-glass1 but not less than between two and three feet in height1 from which it was considered a great feat to drain the contents1 generally consisting of strong ale1 without removing the glass from the lips1 and without spilling any of the liquor1--a somewhat difficult task towards the conclusion1 on account of the distance the liquid had to pass along the glass before reaching its receptacle4 ,the earliest record we have of wine is in the ,book of ,genesis1 where we are told1 ,noah began to be an husbandman1 and he planted a vineyard1 from which it is evident he knew the use that might be made of the fruit by pressing the juice from it and preserving it3 he was1 however1 deceived in its strength by its sweetness2 for1 we are told1 he drank of the wine1 and was drunken4 ,when the offspring of ,noah dispersed into the different countries of the world1 they carried the vine with them1 and taught the use which might be made of it4 ,asia was the first country to which the gift was imparted2 and thence it quickly spread to ,europe and ,africa1 as we learn from the ,iliad of ,homer2 from which book we also learn that1 at the time of the ,trojan war1 part of the commerce consisted in the freight of wines4 ,in order to arrive at customs and historical evidence less remote1 we must take refuge1 as historians have done before us1 in the inner life of the two great empires of ,greece and ,rome1 among whom we find the ceremonies attached to drinking were by no means sparse2 and as the ,romans copied most of their social manners from the ,greeks1 the formalities observed among the two nations in drinking differ but little4 ,in public assemblies the wine-cup was never raised to the lips without previously invoking a blessing from a supposed good deity1 from which custom it is probable that the grace-cup of later days took its origin2 and at the conclusion of their feast1 a cup was quaffed to their good genius1 termed poculum boni ,dei1 which corresponds in the present day with the coup d'trier of the ,french1 the dock un dorish of the ,highland ,scotch1 and the parting-pot of our own country4 ,the ,romans also frequently drank the healths of their ,emperors2 and among other toasts they seldom forgot absent friends1 though we have no record of their drinking to all friends round ,st4 ,peter's4 ,it was customary at their entertainments to elect1 by throwing the dice1 a person termed arbiter bibendi1 to act much in the same way as our modern toast-master1 his business being to lay down to the company the rules to be observed in drinking1 with the power to punish such as did not conform to them4 ,the gods having been propitiated1 the master of the feast drank his first cup to the most distinguished guest1 and then handed a full cup to him1 in which he acknowledged the compliment2 the cup was then passed round by the company1 invariably from left to right1 and always presented with the right hand3 on some occasions each person had his own cup1 which a servant replenished as soon as it was emptied1 as described in the feast of ,homer's heroes4 ,the vessels from which they drank were generally made of wood1 decorated with gold and silver1 and crowned with garlands1 as also were their heads1 particular flowers and herbs being selected1 which were supposed to keep all noxious vapours from the brain4 ,in some cases their cups were formed entirely of gold1 silver1 or bronze4 ,a beautiful example of a bronze cup was found in ,wiltshire1 having the names of five ,roman towns as an inscription1 and richly decorated with scenes of the chase1 from which it has been imagined that it belonged to a club or society of persons1 probably hunters1 and may have been one of their prizes3 they also used cups made from the horns of animals4 ,the wines were commonly drunk out of small glasses called cyaths1 which held just the twelfth of a pint4 ,the chief beverage among the ,greeks and ,romans was the fermented juice of the grape2 but the particular form of it is a matter of some uncertainty4 ,the vinum ,albanum was probably a kind of ,frontignac1 and of all wines was most esteemed by the ,romans1--though ,horace speaks in such glowing terms of ,falernian1 which was a strong and rough wine1 and was not fit for drinking till it had been kept ten years2 and even then it was customary to mix honey with it to soften it4 ,homer speaks of a famous wine of ,maronea in ,thrace1 which would bear mixing with twenty times the quantity of water1 although it was a common practice among the natives to drink it in its pure state4 ,salt water was commonly used by the ,romans to dilute their wine1 which they considered improved its flavour1 having previously boiled it4 ,this custom is said to have originated in the efforts of a slave to prevent detection1 who1 having robbed his master's wine-cask1 filled it up with salt water4 ,the ,romans also mixed with their wine assafoetida1 tar1 myrrh1 aloes1 pepper1 spikenard1 poppies1 worm-wood1 cassia1 milk1 chalk1 bitter almonds1 and cypress2 and they also exposed their wines to the action of smoke in a sort of kiln1 which thickened and matured it4 ,these mixed wines were taken in a peculiar kind of vessel called a murrhine cup1 which was said to impart a peculiar flavour to them2 and though the substance of which these cups were made is not known1 it is fair to surmise they were made of some aromatic wood similar to the bitter cup of the present day1 which is made from the wood of quassia tree4 ,the customary dilution among the ,greeks appears to have consisted of one part of wine to three parts of water1--the word nympha being used in many classical passages for water1 as for example in a ,greek epigram the literal translation of which is1 ,he delights in mingling with three ,nymphs1 making himself the fourth2 this alludes to the custom of mixing three parts of water with one of wine4 ,in ,greece1 the wines of ,cyprus1 ,lesbos1 and ,chio were much esteemed2 those of ,lesbos are especially mentioned by ,horace as being wholesome and agreeable1 as in ,ode #ag1 ,book ,i43-- ,hc innocentis pocula ,lesbii ,duces sub umbra4 ,beneath the shade you here may dine1 ,and quaff the harmless ,lesbian wine4 ,the origin of wine-making is also claimed by the ,persians1 who have a tradition of its accidental discovery by their king ,jemsheed4 ,the monarch being fond of grapes had placed a quantity in a large vessel in his cellar for future use4 ,some time afterwards the vessel was opened1 and the grapes were found in a state of fermentation1 and1 being very acid1 were believed by the king to be poisonous1 and marked accordingly4 ,a lady of his harem being racked by pain1 determined to poison herself1 for which purpose she drank some of the grape-juice--in fact1 got very drunk4 ,after sleeping a considerable time1 she awoke perfectly well1 and1 being pleased with the result1 managed in time to finish all the poison4 ,the monarch discovered what she had done1 and thence took the hint for his own advantage4 ,the ,armenians claim the origin of wine because ,noah planted his first vineyard near ,erivan1 upon the spot where ,noah and his family resided before the ,deluge4 ,the wines of ,chio1 however1 held the greatest reputation1 which was such that the inhabitants of that island were thought to have been the first who planted the vine and taught the use of it to other nations4 ,these wines were held in such esteem and were of so high a value at ,rome1 that in the time of ,lucullus1 at their greatest entertainments1 they drank only one cup of them1 at the end of the feast2 but as sweetness and delicacy of flavour were their prevailing qualities1 this final cup may have been taken as a liqueur4 ,both the ,greeks and the ,romans kept their wine in large earthenware jars1 made with narrow necks1 swollen bodies1 and pointed at the bottom1 by which they were fixed into the earth2 these vessels1 called ,amphor1 though generally of earthenware1 are mentioned by ,homer as being constructed of gold and of stone4 ,among the ,romans it was customary1 at the time of filling their wine-vessels1 to inscribe upon them the name of the consul under whose office they were filled1 thus supplying them with a good means of distinguishing their vintages and pointing out the excellence of particular ones1 much in the same way as we now speak of the vintages of '#bj1 '#cd1 or '#da4 ,thus1 ,pliny mentions a celebrated wine which took its name from ,opimius1 in whose consulate it was made1 and was preserved good to his time 7a period of nearly #bjj years74 ,the vessel used for carrying the wine to the table was called ,ampulla1 being a small bulging bottle covered with leather and having two handles1 which it would be fair to consider the original type of the famous leathern bottel1 the inventor of which is so highly eulogized in the old song1-- ,i wish that his soul in heaven may dwell1 ,who first invented the leathern bottel4 ,the wine was frequently cooled by keeping the vessels in snow2 and it was brought to the table in flasks1 which1 instead of being corked1 had a little fine oil poured into the necks to exclude the air4 ,although the ancients were well acquainted with the excellence of wine1 they were not ignorant of the dangers attending the abuse of it4 ,salencus passed a law forbidding the use of wine1 upon pain of death1 except in case of sickness2 and the inhabitants of ,marseilles and ,miletus prohibited the use of it to women4 ,at ,rome1 in the early ages1 young persons of high birth were not permitted to drink wine till they attained the age of thirty1 and to women the use of it was absolutely forbidden2 but ,seneca complains of the violation of this law1 and says that in his day the women valued themselves upon carrying excess of wine to as great a height as the most robust men4 ,like them1 says he1 they pass whole nights at tables1 and1 with a full glass of unmixed wine in their hands1 they glory in vying with them1 and1 if they can1 in overcoming them4 ,this worthy philosopher1 however1 appears not to have considered excess of drinking in men a vice2 for he goes so far as to advise men of high-strained minds to get intoxicated now and then4 ,not1 says he1 that it may over-power us1 but only relax our overstrained faculties4 ,soon afterwards he adds1 ,do you call ,cato's excess in wine a vice8 ,much sooner may you be able to prove drunkenness to be a virtue1 than ,cato to be vicious4 ,the first history of wine was written in ,latin by ,bacci in the #afth century2 and in #agge ,sir ,edward ,barry composed his observations on ,wines of the ,ancients1 whose authority1 though not reliable1 is curious4 ,after him came ,dr4 ,henderson on ,wines2 and the best treatise of the present day is the ,history of ,wine by ,cyrus ,redding4 ,to all wine-keepers and consumers ,i would recommend a perusal of a little work called ',the ,wine ,guide1' by ,frederick ,c4 ,mills 7#ahfa74 ,let us1 with these casual remarks1 leave the ,greeks and ,romans1 with jovial old ,horace at their head1 quaffing his cup of rosy ,falernian1 his brow smothered in evergreens 7as was his wont71 and pass on to our immediate ancestry1 the ,anglo-,saxon race--not forgetting1 however1 that the ancient ,britons had their veritable cup of honeyed drink1 called ,metheglin1 though this may be said indeed to have had a still greater antiquity1 if ,ben ,johnson is right in pronouncing it to have been the favourite drink of ,demosthenes while composing his excellent and mellifluous orations4 ,the ,anglo-,saxons not only enjoyed their potations1 but conducted them with considerable pomp and ceremony1 although1 as may readily be conceived1 from want of civilization1 excess prevailed4 ,in one of our earliest ,saxon romances we learn that it came to the mind of ,hrothgar to build a great mead-hall1 which was to be the chief palace2 and1 further on1 we find this palace spoken of as the beer-hall1 where the ,thane performed his office--he that in his hand bare the twisted ale-cup1 from which he poured the bright1 sweet liquor1 while the poet sang serene1 and the guests boasted of their exploits4 ,furthermore we learn that1 when the queen entered1 she served out the liquor1 first offering the cup to her lord and master1 and afterwards to the guests4 ,in this romance1 the dear or precious drinking-cup1 from which they quaffed the mead1 is also spoken of3 and as these worthies had the peculiar custom of burying the drinking-cups with their dead1 we may conclude they were held in high esteem1 while at the same time it gives us an opportunity of actually seeing the vessels of which the romance informs us2 for in ,saxon graves1 or barrows1 they are now frequently found4 ,they were principally made of glass2 and the twisted pattern alluded to appears to have been the most prevailing shape4 ,several other forms have been discovered1 all of which1 however1 are so formed with rounded bottoms that they will not stand by themselves2 consequently their contents must have been quaffed before replacing them on the table4 ,it is probable that from this peculiar shape we derive our modern word tumbler2 and1 if so1 the freak attributed to the ,prince ,regent1 and since his time1 occasionally performed at our ,universities1 of breaking the stems off the wine-glasses in order to ensure their being emptied of the contents1 was no new scheme1 it having been employed by our ancestors in a more legitimate and less expensive manner4 ,we also find1 in ,anglo-,saxon graves1 pitchers from which the drink was poured1 differing but little from those now in common use1 as well as buckets in which the ale was conveyed from the cellar4 ,that drinking-cups among the ,anglo-,saxons were held in high esteem1 and were probably of considerable value1 there can be no doubt1 from the frequent mention made of their being bequeathed after death2 in proof of which1 from among many others1 we may quote the instance of the ,mercian king ,witlaf giving to the ,abbey of ,crowland the horn of his table1 that the elder monks may drink from it on festivals1 and in their benedictions remember sometimes the soul of the donor1 as well as the one mentioned in ,gale's ',history of ,ramsey1' to the ,abbey of which place the ,lady ,ethelgiva presented two silver cups for the use of the brethren in the refectory1 in order that1 while drink is served in them1 my memory may be more firmly imprinted on their hearts4 ,another curious proof of the estimation in which they were held is1 that in pictures of warlike expeditions1 where representations of the valuable spoils are given1 we invariably find drinking-vessels portrayed most prominently4 ,the ordinary drinks of the ,anglo-,saxons were ale and mead1 though wine was also used by them2 but wine is spoken of as not the drink of children or of fools1 but of elders and wise men3 and the scholar says he does not drink wine1 because he is not rich enough to buy it2 from which1 en passant1 we may notice that scholars were not rich men even in those days1 and up to the present time1 we fear1 have but little improved their worldly estate4 ,we cannot learn that the ,saxons were in the habit of compounding drinks1 and1 beyond the fact of their pledging each other with the words ,drinc-hl and ,wss-hl1 accompanying the words with a kiss1 and that minstrelsy formed a conspicuous adjunct to their drinking-festivities1 we can obtain but little knowledge of the customs they pursued4 ,the ,vedic cup-drink was ,soma1 which is described as being sweet1 honied1 sharp and well-flavoured1 the liquor of the ,gods4 ,one of the many hymns in the ,vedas in its praise may be thus translated-- ,we have drunk the ,soma ,and are entered into ,light1 ,so that we know the ,gods4 ,what can now an enemy do to us8 ,what can the malice of any mortal effect ,against thee and us1 ,o6 thou immortal ,god8 ,for further information on this and other points1 much may be learnt from ,mr4 ,wright's excellent book of ',domestic ,manners and ,sentiments of the ,middle ,ages1' where some good illustrations of ,saxon drinking-scenes are sketched from the ,harleian and other manuscripts4 ,from the scarcity of materials descriptive of the social habits of the ,normans1 we glean but little as to their customs of drinking2 in all probability they differed but slightly from those of the ,saxons1 though at this time wine became of more frequent use1 the vessels from which it was quaffed being bowl-shaped1 and generally made of glass4 ,will of ,malmsbury1 describing the customs of ,glastonbury soon after the ,conquest1 says1 that on particular occasions the monks had mead in their cans1 and wine in their grace-cup4 ,excess in drinking appears to have been looked upon with leniency2 for1 in the stories of ,reginald of ,durham1 we read of a party drinking all night at the house of a priest2 and in another he mentions a youth passing the whole night drinking at a tavern with his monastic teacher1 till the one cannot prevail on the other to go home4 ,the qualities of good wine in the #abth century are thus singularly set forth3--,it should be clear like the tears of a penitent1 so that a man may see distinctly to the bottom of the glass2 its colour should represent the greenness of a buffalo's horn2 when drunk1 it should descend impetuously like thunder2 sweet-tasted as an almond2 creeping like a squirrel2 leaping like a roebuck2 strong like the building of a ,cistercian monastery2 glittering like a spark of fire2 subtle like the logic of the schools of ,paris2 delicate as fine silk2 and colder than crystal4 ,if we pursue our theme through the #acth1 #adth1 and #aeth centuries1 we find but little to edify us1 those times being distinguished more by their excess and riot than by superiority of beverages or the customs attached to them4 ,it would be neither profitable nor interesting to descant on scenes of brawling drunkenness1 which ended not unfrequently in fierce battles--or pause to admire the congregation of female gossips at the taverns1 where the overhanging sign was either the branch of a tree1 from which we derive the saying that good wine needs no bush1 or the equally common appendage of a besom hanging from the window1 which has supplied us with the idea of hanging out the broom4 ,the chief wine drank at this period was ,malmsey1 first imported into ,england in the #acth century1 when its average price was about #ejs4 a butt2 this wine1 however1 attained its greatest popularity in the #aeth century4 ,there is a story in connexion with this wine which makes it familiar to every schoolboy2 and that is1 the part it played in the death of the ,duke of ,clarence4 ,whether that nobleman did choose a butt of ,malmsey1 and thus carry out the idea of drowning his cares in wine1 as well as his body1 matters but little1 we think1 to our readers4 ,we may however mention that although great suspicion has been thrown on the truth of the story1 the only two contemporary writers who mention his death1 ,fabyan and ,comines1 appear to have had no doubt that the ,duke of ,clarence was actually drowned in a butt of ,malmsey4 ,in the records kept of the expenses of ,mary1 ,queen of ,scots1 during her captivity at ,tutbury1 we find a weekly allowance of ,malmsey granted to her for a bath4 ,in a somewhat scarce ,french book1 written in the #aeth century1 entitled ',la ,lgende de ,matre ,pierre ,faiferi1' we find the following verse relating to the death of the ,duke of ,clarence3-- ,i have seen the ,duke of ,clarence 7,so his wayward fate had will'd71 ,by his special order1 drown'd ,in a cask with ,malmsey fill'd4 ,that that death should strike his fancy1 ,this the reason1 ,i suppose2 ,he might think that hearty drinking ,would appease his dying throes4 ,a wine called ,clary was also drank at this period4 ,it appears to have been an infusion of the herb of that name in spirit1 and is spoken of by physicians of the time as an excellent cordial for the stomach1 and highly efficacious in the cure of hysterical affections4 ,this may in some measure account for the statement in the ,household ,ordinances for the well keeping of the ,princess ,cecil1 afterwards mother to that right lusty and handsome ,king1 ,edward ,,iv42 we there find it laid down that for the maintenance of honest mirth she shall take1 an hour before bedtime1 a cup of ,clary wine4 ,red wine is also spoken of in the reign of ,henry ,,viii42 but it is uncertain to what class of wine it belonged1 or whence it came3 if palatable1 however1 its cheapness would recommend it2 for at the marriage of ,gervys ,clinton and ,mary ,neville1 three hogsheads of it1 for the wedding-feast1 were bought for five guineas4 ,gascony and ,guienne wines were sold in the reign of ,henry ,,viii4 at eighteenpence a gallon1 and ,malmsey1 ,romaney1 and sack at twelvepence a pint4 ,in the reign of ,edward ,,iv4 few places were allowed more than two taverns1 and ,london was limited to forty4 ,none but those who could spend #ajj marks a year1 or the son of a ,duke1 ,marquis1 ,earl1 or ,baron1 were allowed to keep more than ten gallons of wine at one time2 and only the ,high ,sheriffs1 ,magistrates of ,cities1 and the inhabitants of fortified towns might keep vessels of wine for their own use4 ,in the same reign1 however1 we learn that the ,archbishop of ,york consumed #ajj tons on his enthronement1 and as much as four pipes a month were consumed in some of our noblemen's houses4 ,we must not1 however1 pass over the #aeth century without proclaiming it as the dawn of the ,cup-epoch1 if we may be allowed the term1 as gleaned from the rolls of some of the ancient colleges of our ,universities4 ,in the computus of ,magstoke ,priory1 ,a4,d4 #addg1 is an entry in ,latin1 the translation of which seems to be this3--,paid for raisin wine1 with comfits and spices1 when ,sir ,s4 ,montford's fool was here and exhibited his merriments in the oriel chamber4 ,and even in ,edward ,,iii4's reign1 we read that at the ,christmas feasts the drinks were a collection of spiced liquors1 and cinnamon and grains of paradise were among the dessert confections--evidence of compound drinks being in fashion2 and these1 although somewhat too much medicated to be in accordance with our present taste1 deserve well of us as leading to better things4 ,olden worthies who took their cups regularly1 and so lived clean and cheerful lives1 when they were moved to give up their choice recipes for the public good1 described them under the head of kitchen physic2 for the oldest ,curry or ,cookery ,books 7the words are synonymous7 include1 under this head1 both dishes of meats and brewages of drinks4 ,one cup is described as of mighty power in driving away the cobweby fogs that dull the brain1 another as a generous and right excellent cordial1 very comforting to the stomach2 and their possession of these good qualities was notably the reason of their appearance at entertainments4 ,among the most prominent ranks the medicated composition called ,hypocras1 also styled ,ypocras for ,lords1 for the making of which various recipes are to be found1 one of which we will quote3-- ,take of ,aqua vit 7brandy7 #e oz4 ,pepper #b oz4 ,ginger #b oz4 ,cloves #b oz4 ,grains of ,paradise #b oz4 ,ambergris #e grs4 ,musk #b grs4 ,infuse these for twenty-four hours1 then put a pound of sugar to a quart of red wine or cider1 and drop three or four drops of the infusion into it1 and it will make it taste richly4 ,this compound was usually given at marriage festivals1 when it was introduced at the commencement of the banquet1 served hot2 for it is said to be of so comforting and generous a nature that the stomach would be at once put into good temper to enjoy the meats provided4 ,hypocras 7so called from a particular bag through which it was strained7 was also a favourite winter beverage2 and we find in an old almanac of #afii the lines-- ,sack1 ,hypocras1 now1 and burnt brandy ,are drinks as good and warm as can be4 ,hypocras1 however1 is mentioned as early as the #adth century4 ,from this period we select our champion of compound drinks in no less a personage than the noblest courtier of ,queen ,bess2 for1 among other legacies of price1 ,sir ,walter ,raleigh has handed down to us a recipe for ,cordial ,water1 which1 in its simplicity and goodness1 stands alone among the compounds of the age4 ,take1 says he1 a gallon of strawberries and put them into a pint of aqua vit2 let them stand four days1 then strain them gently off1 and sweeten the liquor as it pleaseth thee4 ,this beverage1 though somewhat too potent for modern palates1 may1 by proper dilution1 be rendered no unworthy cup even in the present age4 ,from the same noble hand we get a recipe for ,sack ,posset1 which full well shows us propriety of taste in its compounder4 ,boil a quart of cream with quantum sufficit of sugar1 mace1 and nutmeg2 take half a pint of sack1 and the same quantity of ale1 and boil them well together1 adding sugar2 these1 being boiled separately1 are now to be added4 ,heat a pewter dish very hot1 and cover your basin with it1 and let it stand by the fire for two or three hours4 ,with regard to wines1 we find in the beginning of the #afth century that the demand for ,malmsey was small2 and in #aeca we find ,sack first spoken of1 that being the name applied to the vintages of ,candia1 ,cyprus1 and ,spain4 ,shakspeare pronounced ,malmsey to be fulsom1 and bestowed all his praises on fertil sherries2 and when ,shakspeare makes use of the word ,sack1 he evidently means by it a superior class of wine4 ,thus ,sir ,launcelot ,sparcock1 in the ,london ,prodigal1 says1 ,drawer1 let me have sack for us old men3 ,for these girls and knaves small wines are best4 ,in all probability1 the sack of ,shakspeare was very much allied to1 if not precisely the same as1 our sherry2 for ,falstaff says1 ,you rogue6 there is lime in this sack too2 there is nothing but roguery to be found in villanous man2 yet a coward is worse than sack with lime in it2 and we know that lime is used in the manufacture of sherry1 in order to free it from a portion of malic and tartaric acids1 and to assist in producing its dry quality4 ,sack is spoken of as late as #agag1 in a parish register1 which allows the minister a pint of it on the ,lord's day1 in the winter season2 and ,swift1 writing in #agbg1 has the lines-- ,as clever ,tom ,clinch1 while the rabble was bawling1 ,rode stately through ,holborn to die of his calling1 ,he stopped at the ',george' for a bottle of sack1 ,and promised to pay for it when he came back4 ,he was probably of the same opinion as the ,elizabethan poet1 who sang1 ,sacke will make the merry minde sad1 ,so will it make the melancholie glad4 ,if mirthe and sadnesse doth in sacke remain1 ,when ,i am sad ,i'll take some sacke again4 ,a recipe of this time1 attributed to ,sir ,fleetwood ,fletcher1 is curious in its composition in more ways than one2 and1 as we seldom find such documents in rhyme1 we give it3-- ,from famed ,barbadoes1 on the western main1 ,fetch sugar1 ounces four2 fetch sack from ,spain1 ,a pint2 and from the ,eastern coast1 ,nutmeg1 the glory of our northern toast2 ,o'er flaming coals let them together heat1 ,till the all-conquering sack dissolve the sweet2 ,o'er such another fire put eggs just ten1 ,new-born from tread of cock and rump of hen2 ,stir them with steady hand1 and conscience pricking1 ,to see the untimely end of ten fine chicken2 ,from shining shelf take down the brazen skillet-- ,a quart of milk from gentle cow will fill it2 ,when boil'd and cold put milk and sack to eggs1 ,unite them firmly like the triple leagues2 ,and on the fire let them together dwell ,till miss sing twice 'you must not kiss and tell2' ,each lad and lass take up a silver spoon1 ,and fall on fiercely like a starved dragoon4 ,about this time1 one ,lord ,holles1 who probably represented the total abstainers of the age1 invented a drink termed ,hydromel1 made of honey1 spring-water1 and ginger2 and a cup of this taken at night1 said he1 will cure thee of all troubles1--thus acknowledging the stomachic virtues of cups1 though some warping of his senses would not let him believe1 to a curable extent1 in more potent draughts3 being in charity with him1 we hope his was a saving faith2 but we have our doubts of it1 he died so young4 ,another recipe of the same nature was1 ,the ,ale of health and strength1 by the ,duchess of ,st4 ,albans1 which appears to have been a decoction of all the aromatic herbs in the garden 7whether agreeable or otherwise71 boiled up in small beer2 and1 thinking this account of its composition is sufficient1 we will not indulge our readers with the various items or proportions4 ,one of the most amusing descriptions of old ,english cheer we ever met with is that of ,master ,stephen ,perlin1 a ,french physician1 who was in ,england during the reigns of ,edward ,,vi4 and ,mary4 ,he says1 writing for the benefit of his countrymen1 ,the ,english1 one with the other1 are joyous1 and are very fond of music2 likewise they are great drinkers4 ,now remember1 if you please1 that in this country they generally use vessels of silver when they drink wine2 and they will say to you usually at table1 ',goude chere2' and also they will say to you more than one hundred times1 ',drind oui1' and you will reply to them in their language1 ',iplaigui4' ,they drink their beer out of earthenware pots1 of which the handles and the covers are of silver1 c4 ,worthy ,master ,perlin seems hardly to have got on with his spelling of the ,english tongue while he was studying our habits2 his account1 however1 of olden customs is reliable and curious4 ,the custom of pledging and drinking healths is generally stated to have originated with the ,anglo-,saxons2 but1 with such decided evidence before us of similar customs among the ,greeks and ,romans1 we must at any rate refer it to an earlier period2 and indeed we may rationally surmise that1 in some form or other1 the custom has existed from time immemorial4 ,in later times the term toasting was employed to designate customs of a similar import1 though the precise date of the application of this term is uncertain2 and although we cannot accept the explanation given in the #bdth number of the ',tatler1' yet1 for its quaintness1 we will quote it3-- ,it is said that while a celebrated beauty was indulging in her bath1 one of the crowd of admirers who surrounded her took a glass of the water in which the fair one was dabbling1 and drank her health to the company1 when a gay fellow offered to jump in1 saying1 ',though he liked not the liquor1 he would have the toast4' ,this tale proves that toasts were put into beverages in those days1 or the wag would not have applied the simile to the fair bather2 and in the reign of ,charles ,,ii41 ,earl ,rochester writes1 ,make it so large that1 fill'd with sack ,up to the swelling brim1 ,vast toasts on the delicious lake1 ,like ships at sea1 may swim4 ,and in a panegyric on ,oxford ale1 written by ,warton in #agbj1 we have the lines-- ,my sober evening let the tankard bless1 ,with toast embrown'd1 and fragrant nutmeg fraught1 ,while the rich draught1 with oft-repeated whiffs1 ,tobacco mild improves4 ,johnson1 in his translation of ,horace1 makes use of the expression in ,ode ,i4 ,book ,,iv4 thus-- ,there jest and feast2 make him thine host1 ,if a fit liver thou dost seek to toast2 and ,prior1 in the ,camelion1 says1 ,but if at first he minds his hits1 ,and drinks champaign among the wits1 ,five deep he toasts the towering lasses1 ,repeats your verses wrote on glasses4 ,this last line has reference to the custom pursued in the clubs of the eighteenth century1 of writing verses on the brims of their cups2 they also inscribed on them the names of the favourite ladies whom they toasted3 and ,dr4 ,arbuthnot ascribes the name of the celebrated ,kit-,cat ,club to the toasts drank there1 rather than to the renowned pastry-cook1 ,christopher ,kat2 for he says1 ,from no trim beaux its name it boasts1 ,grey statesmen or green wits2 ,but from its pell-mell pack of toasts1 ,of old ,cat and young ,kits4 ,among the latter may be mentioned ,lady ,mary ,montagu1 who was toasted at the age of eight years2 while among the former denomination we must class ,lady ,molyneux1 who is said to have died with a pipe in her mouth4 ,in the #agth century the custom of drinking health was conducted with great ceremony2 each person rising up in turn1 with a full cup1 named some individual to whom he drank2 he then drank the whole contents of the cup and turned it upside down upon the table1 giving it at the same time a fillip to make it ring1 or1 as our ancient authority has it1 make it cry 'twango4' ,each person followed in his turn2 and1 in order to prove that he had fairly emptied his cup1 he was to pour all that remained in it on his thumb-nail2 and if there was too much left to remain on the nail1 he was compelled to drink his cup full again4 ,if the person was present whose health was drank1 he was expected to remain perfectly still during the operation1 and at the conclusion to make an inclination of his head1--this being the origin of our custom of taking wine with each other1 which1 with sorrow be it said1 is fast exploding4 ,a very usual toast for a man to give was the health of his mistress2 and in ,france1 when this toast was given1 the proposer was expected to drink his cup full of wine as many times as there were letters in her name4 ,we now pass on to times which seem1 in their customs1 to approach more nearly to the present1 yet far back enough to be called old times2 and we think it may be pardoned if we indulge in some reminiscences of them1 tacking on to our short-lived memories the greater recollection of history1 and thus reversing the wheels of time1 which are hurrying us forward faster than we care to go4 ,for we hold it to be an excusable matter1 this halting awhile and looking back to times of simpler manners than those we are living in1 of heartier friendships1 of more genial trustings2 and that these good qualities were preeminently those current during the #agth and #ahth centuries we have abundant proof4 ,has not one of the most noble sentiments in the ,english language come down to us in a cup--the cup of kindness1 which we are bidden to take for ,auld ,lang ,syne8 ,and truly there come to us from this age passed by1 but leaving behind an ever-living freshness which can be made a heritage of cheerfulness to the end of time1 such testimonies of good done by associable as well as social intercourse1 that1 were we cynics of the most churlish kind1 instead of people inclined to be kind and neighbourly1 we could not refuse acknowledgment of the part played in such deeds by the cup of kindness4 ,be it remembered1 however1 such bright oases in social history do not shine from gluttonous tables1 and are not the property of hard-drinking circles1 with their attendant vices4 ,we seek for them in vain at the so-called social boards of the last century1 where men won their spurs by excessive wine-drinking1 and three-bottle men were the only gentlemen2 neither do we meet them amid the carousals of ,whitehall and ,alsatia1 or1 nearer to our own day1 among the vicious coteries of the ,regency4 ,the scenes we like to recall and dwell upon are those of merry-makings and jollity--or of friendly meetings1 as when gentle ,master ,izaac1 returning from his fishing1 brings with him two-legged fish to taste his brewage 7and a very pleasant and commendable cup the great master of the gentle art will drink with them71 or when pious ,master ,herbert chances to meet with a man he liketh1 who hath the manner of loving all things for the good that is in them1 and who1 like his greater companion1 7for no one in that quality of mind was greater than ,herbert17 had a respect for what1 in others1 were occasions of stumbling1 could use good gifts without abusing them1 and think the loving-cup of spiced wine an excellent good cordial for the heart1 or when ,dr4 ,donne 7scarce a man in ,england wiser than he71 laying aside for the time his abstruse learning1 mixed a mighty cup of gillyflower sack1 and talked over it with ,sir ,kenelm ,digby 7hardly a lesser man than himself71 of the good gifts lavishly offered1 but by some rudely abused1 and by others unthankfully taken1 discussed the merits of plants and fruits1 or the virtues1 harder to be discovered1 of stones and metals1 while they marvelled at that scheme which adapted each body1 animate or inanimate1 to the station ordained to it1 and at the infinite goodness of ,him who made man head of all1 and gave him power and discernment that he might show1 by the moderate use of things healthy and nourishing1 the wisdom of ,him who ordained them to cheer and to cherish4 ,a great regard for the wholesome had ,sir ,kenelm ,digby1 whose carefulness in the concoction of his favourite cup was such that he could not brew it aright if he had not ,hyde-,park water--a rule of much value in ,sir ,kenelm's day1 no doubt2 but modern improvements1 unfortunately1 interfere with the present use of it4 ,other apostles of the truest temperance 7moderation7 there were1 and we cherish them as men who have deserved well of their country4 ,dr4 ,parr1 for example1 who could drink his cider-cup on the village green on a ,sunday evening1 while his farming parishioners played at bowls1--or again1 still more legibly written in social history1 and to some extent leaving an impress upon our national life1 the club-gatherings of the last century1 where men of far-seeing and prudent philosophy 7,addison1 ,steele1 ,goldsmith1 ,johnson1 and others71 whose names are interwoven with the history of their time1 meeting together1 talked of human joys and human sorrows over claret-cups--men witty themselves1 and the cause of wit in other men1 like sweet ,sir ,john1 whose devotion to sherris sack cost him his character1 and will therefore deny him admission to our gallery of men who have drank wisely and warily1 and therefore well4 ,while speaking of these times1 we must not forget to mention the cup that cheers1 but not inebriates2 for it was from the introduction of tea- and coffee-houses that clubs sprang into existence1 by a process unnecessary here to dilate on1 but of which an excellent account may be found in ,philip and ,grace ,wharton's ',wits and ,beaux of ,society4' ,the first coffee-house established was the ',grecian1' kept by one ,constantine1 a ,greek1 who advertised that the pure berry of the coffee was to be had of him as good as could be anywhere found1 and shortly afterwards succeeded in securing a flourishing trade by selling an infusion of the said berry in small cups4 ,after him came ,mr4 ,garraway1 who set forth that tea was to be had of him in leaf and in drink2 and thus took its rise ,garraway's well-known coffee-house1 so celebrated for the sayings and doings of ,dr4 ,johnson1 one of which1 being somewhat to the point1 we may1 in passing1 notice4 ,i admit1 said he1 that there are sluggish men who are improved by drinking1 as there are fruits which are not good till they are rotten2 there are such men1 but they are medlars4 ,in the eighteenth century the principal cups that we find noted were those compounded of ,beer1 the names of which are occasionally suggestive of too great a familiarity on the part of their worshippers1--to wit1 ,humptie-dumptie1 ,clamber-clown1 ,stiffle1 ,blind ,pinneaux1 ,old ,pharaoh1 ,three threads1 ,knock-me-down1 ,hugmatee1 and ,foxcomb4 ,all these were current at the beginning of that century4 ,then1 towards the end of it we find ,cock-ale1 ,stepony1 ,stitchback1 ,northdown1 and ,mum4 ,mum is ale brewed from malted wheat4 ,it is so called from ,christison ,mumme1 a brewer of ,braunschweig in ,wolfenbttel1 who lived at the end of the #aeth century1 and whose house is still standing4 ,when three ,essex men meet to drink a pot together1 the draught taken by the first is called the ,neckem1 that by the second the ,sinkem1 the last man draining the pot by drinking the ,swankens1 from which we find1 in ,bailey's ,dictionary1 ,swankie1 the drop which remains at the bottom of a cup4 ,bragget is a northland word derived from the hero ,braga1 who is one of the mythological gods of the ,edda1 and consisted of spiced ale drank on ,mothering ,sunday1 a kind of metheglin derived from ,bragawd 7,welsh74 ,it is still drank in ,lancashire4 ,all these were very similar in composition1 and their precise recipes are scarcely worth recording4 ,many noted houses of entertainment1 both in town and country1 were distinguished by their particular brewage of these compounds4 ,but we can only find a single instance of a house becoming famous in this century for claret-cups1 in many respects the most desirable of any drink3 that one hostelry was the ',heaven1' in ,fleet ,street1 so often quoted by the ephemeral writers of the age4 ,modern ,english customs connected with drinking may be said to be conspicuous from their absence2 for1 save in the ,grace-cups1 and ,loving-cups of civic entertainments and other state occasions1 we do not remember any customs worth alluding to4 ,certain of our cathedral establishments and colleges retain practices of ancient date relating to the passing round of the grace-cup2 of such is the ,durham ,prebend's cup1 which is drank at certain feasts given by the resident ,prebend to the corporation and inhabitants of the city1 and for which1 under an old charter1 he is allowed a liberal sum of money annually4 ,this composition is still brewed from the original recipe1 and served in the original ancient silver cups1 which are at least a foot high1 and hold between two and three quarts4 ,the cups are carried into the room by a chorister-boy1 attired in a black gown1 preceded by a verger1 also wearing a black gown trimmed with silver braid1 and bearing in his hand a silver wand4 ,a ,latin grace is then chanted1 and the ,prebend presents the boy with a shilling1 who1 having placed the cups on the table1 marches out of the room1 accompanied by the verger4 ,the cups are then passed down each side of the table1 and quaffed by each guest in succession to an appropriate toast4 ,for the sensation-drinks which have lately travelled across the ,atlantic we have no friendly feeling2 they are far too closely allied to the morning dram1 with its thousand verbal mystifications1 to please our taste2 and the source from which eye-openers and smashers come is one too notorious to be welcomed by any man who deserves well of his country3 so we will pass the ,american bar1 with its bad brandies and fiery wine1 and express our gratification at the poor success which ,pick-me-ups1 ,corpse-revivers1 ,chain-lightning1 and the like have had in this country4 ,,hints ,,to ,,cup-,,brewers4 ,there are certain things to be observed in the compounding of cups1 which1 though patent to every man's common sense1 we may be pardoned for mentioning4 ,when a drink is to be served hot1 never let the mixture boil1 but let the heat be applied as gently as possible3 a fierce heat causes the spirit to evaporate1 and moreover destroys or materially alters the fine aromatic flavour on which so much of its delicacy depends4 ,when the hot cup is brewed1 be careful to retain the heat as much as possible1 by a covering to the vessel2 and let it not be served till the moment it is required4 ,on the other hand1 when a cool cup is to be made1 its greatest adjunct is ice1 either in lumps1 which may be retained in the cup1 or1 as is preferable1 a portion of pounded ice should be violently shaken with the mixture and afterwards strained off4 ,the best way of pounding ice is to wrap a block of it in a napkin and beat it with a mallet or rolling-pin2 and the only way of breaking up a block of ice into conveniently sized pieces with accuracy is by using a large needle or other sharp-pointed instrument4 ,the rind of lemon and orange is of great service in flavouring cups2 and it is of the utmost importance that this should be pared as thinly as possible1 for it is only in the extreme outer portion that the flavour is contained4 ,in making all cups where lemon-peel is employed1 reject the white part altogether1 as worse than useless2 it imparts an unpleasant flavour to the beverage1 and tends to make it muddy and discoloured4 ,it was customary in olden times1 as well as at the present1 to communicate flavouring to compound drinks by means of different herbs1 among which first in point of flavour is ,borage1 which is mentioned1 as early as the #acth century1 as growing in the garden of ,john ,de ,garlande2 and in a list of plants of the #aeth century1 ,borage stands first4 ,it is spoken of in the commencement of the #ahth century as one of the four cordial flowers1 being of known virtue to revive the hypochondriac and cheer the hard student4 ,this ,borage is a plant having a small blue flower1 and growing luxuriantly in most gardens2 by placing a sprig or two of it in any cool drink1 it communicates a peculiar refreshing flavour which cannot be imitated by any other means4 ,when1 however1 ,borage cannot be procured1 a thin slice of cucumber-peel forms a very good substitute2 but care must be taken to use but one slice1 or the cup will be too much impregnated with the flavour to be palatable4 ,a small piece from the outer rind of the stalk is considered by some to possess superior excellence4 ,we have made many experiments to extract this peculiar flavouring from ,borage1 in all of which we have been totally unsuccessful2 nor do we imagine it possible to separate it from the plant1 in order to gain these peculiar properties4 ,balm is another herb which is used for flavouring drinks2 but we do not recommend it1 although we find it spoken of in an old medical work as a very good help to digestion1 and to open obstructions to the brain1 c4 c4 ,mint gives an agreeable flavour to ,juleps1 but is not of general application4 ,a sprig of sweet-scented verbena1 put into some cups1 imparts an aromatic and agreeable flavour2 but all these herbs must be used with caution1 and are only pleasant when judiciously introduced4 ,let your utensils be clean1 and your ingredients of first-rate quality1 and1 unless you have some one very trustworthy and reliable1 take the matter in hand yourself2 for nothing is so annoying to the host1 or so unpalatable to the guests1 as a badly compounded cup4 ,in order that the magnitude of this important business may be fully understood and properly estimated1 we will transfer some of the excellent aphoristic remarks of the illustrious ,billy ,dawson 7more properly ,bully ,dawson1 spoken of by ,charles ,lamb in his ',popular ,fallacies'71 whose illustricity consisted in being the only man who could brew ,punch4 ,this is his testimony3--,the man who sees1 does1 or thinks of anything while he is making ,punch1 may as well look for the ,north-west ,passage on ,mutton ,hill4 ,a man can never make good ,punch unless he is satisfied1 nay positive1 that no man breathing can make better4 ,i can and do make good ,punch1 because ,i do nothing else2 and this is my way of doing it4 ,i retire to a solitary corner1 with my ingredients ready sorted2 they are as follows2 and ,i mix them in the order they are here written4 ,sugar1 twelve tolerable lumps2 hot water1 one pint2 lemons1 two1 the juice and peel2 old ,jamaica rum1 two gills2 brandy1 one gill2 porter or stout1 half a gill2 arrack1 a slight dash4 ,i allow myself five minutes to make a bowl on the foregoing proportions1 carefully stirring the mixture as ,i furnish the ingredients until it actually foams2 and then1 ,kangaroos6 how beautiful it is66 ,if1 however1 for convenience1 you place the matter in the hands of your domestic1 ,i would advise you to caution her on the importance of the office2 and this could not be better effected than by using the words of the witty ,dr4 ,king3-- ,o ,peggy1 ,peggy1 when thou go'st to brew1 ,consider well what you're about to do2 ,be very wise--very sedately think ,that what you're going to make is--drink2 ,consider who must drink that drink1 and then ,what 'tis to have the praise of honest men2 ,then future ages shall of ,peggy tell1 ,the nymph who spiced the brewages so well4 ,respecting the size of the cup no fixed rule can be laid down1 because it must mainly depend upon the number who have to partake of it2 and be it remembered that1 as cups are not intended to be quaffed ad libitum1 as did ,bicias1 of whom ,cornelius ,agrippa says1 ,to ,bicias shee it gave1 and sayd1 ',drink of this cup of myne2' ,he quickly quafte it1 and left not ,of licoure any sygne1 let quality prevail over quantity1 and try to hit a happy medium between the cup of ,nestor1 which was so large that a young man could not carry it1 and the country half-pint of our own day1 which we have heard of as being so small that a string has to be tied to it to prevent it slipping down with the cider4 ,in order to appreciate the delicacy of a well-compounded cup1 we would venture to suggest this laconic rule1 ,when you drink--think4 ,,old ,,recipes4 ,first and foremost among compound drinks1 with regard to priority of date1 stands ,hydromel1 the favourite beverage of the ancient ,britons1 which is probably the same as that made and used at the present day under the name of ,metheglin1 a word derived from the ,welsh ,medey-glin1 and spoken of by ,howell1 who was ,clerk to the ,privy ,council in #afdj4 ,in ancient times1 however1 this compound was made by simply diluting honey with water2 but at the present day1 substances are usually added to it to cause it to ferment2 and when made in this way1 it differs little from mead or bragget4 ,metheglin4 ,to nine gallons of boiling water put twenty-eight pounds of honey1 add the peel of three lemons1 with a small quantity of ginger1 mace1 cloves1 and rosemary2 when this is quite cold1 add two tablespoonfuls of yeast4 ,put this into a cask1 and allow it to ferment2 at the expiration of six months1 bottle it off for use4 ,another favourite drink in olden times was that called ,lamb's ,wool1 which derived its name from the #ast of ,november1 a day dedicated to the angel presiding over fruits and seeds1 and termed ,la ,mas-ubal1 which has subsequently been corrupted into lamb's wool4 ,lamb's ,wool4 ,to one quart of strong hot ale add the pulp of six roasted apples1 together with a small quantity of grated nutmeg and ginger1 with a sufficient quantity of raw sugar to sweeten it2 stir the mixture assiduously1 and let it be served hot4 ,of equal antiquity1 and of nearly the same composition1 is the ,wassail ,bowl1 which in many parts of ,england is still partaken of on ,christmas ,eve1 and is alluded to by ,shakspeare in his ,midsummer ,night's ,dream4 ,in ,jesus ,college1 ,oxford1 we are told1 it is drunk on the ,festival of ,st4 ,david1 out of a silver gilt bowl holding ten gallons1 which was presented to that ,college by ,sir ,watkin ,william ,wynne1 in #agcb4 ,the ,wassail ,bowl4 ,put into a quart of warm beer one pound of raw sugar1 on which grate a nutmeg and some ginger2 then add four glasses of sherry and two quarts more of beer1 with three slices of lemon2 add more sugar1 if required1 and serve it with three slices of toasted bread floating in it4 ,another genus of beverages1 if so it may be termed1 of considerable antiquity1 comprise those compositions having milk for their basis1 or1 as ,dr4 ,johnson describes them1 milk curdled with wine and other acids1 known under the name of ,possets--such as milk-posset1 pepper-posset1 cider-posset1 or egg-posset4 ,most of these1 now-a-days1 are restricted to the bed-chamber1 where they are taken in cases of catarrh1 to act as agreeable sudorifics4 ,they appear to us to be too much associated with tallow applied to the nose to induce us to give recipes for their composition1 although in olden times they seem to have been drank on festive occasions1 as ,shakspeare says ,we will have a posset at the end of a sea-coal fire2 and ,sir ,john ,suckling1 who lived in the early part of the #agth century1 has in one of his poems the line-- ,in came the bridesmaids with the posset4 ,the ,grace-cup and ,loving-cup appear to be synonymous terms for a beverage the drinking of which has been from time immemorial a great feature at the corporation dinners in ,london and other large towns1 as also at the feasts of the various trade companies and the ,inns of ,court1 and which is a compound of wine and spices1 formerly called ,sack4 ,it is handed round the table before the removal of the cloth1 in large silver cups1 from which no one is allowed to drink before the guest on either side of him has stood up2 the person who drinks then rises and bows to his neighbours4 ,this custom is said to have originated in the precaution to keep the right or dagger hand employed1 as it was a frequent practice with the ,danes to stab their companions in the back at the time they were drinking4 ,the most notable instance of this was the treachery employed by ,elfrida1 who stabbed ,king ,edward the ,martyr at ,corfe ,castle whilst thus engaged4 ,at the ,temple the custom of the ,loving-cup is strictly observed4 ,the guests are only supposed to take one draught from it as it passes2 but1 in ,no4 #aaj of the ',quarterly ,review1' a writer says1 ,yet it chanced1 not long since at the ,temple1 that1 though the number present fell short of seventy1 thirty-six quarts of the liquor were consumed4 ,julep1 derived from the ,persian word ,julap 7a sweetened draught71 is a beverage spoken of by ,john ,quincey1 the physician1 who died in #agbc1 and also mentioned by ,milton in the lines-- 44444 ,behold this cordial ,julep here1 ,that foams and dances in his crystal bounds1 ,with spirits of balm and fragrant syrups mix'd4 ,this drink is now made by pounding ice and white sugar together1 and adding to it a wine-glass of brandy1 half a wine-glass of rum1 and a piece of the outer rind of a lemon2 these ingredients are shaken violently1 and two or three sprigs of fresh mint are stuck in the glass2 it is then usually imbibed through a straw1 or stick of maccaroni4 ,one of the oldest of winter beverages1 and an especial favourite1 both in ancient and modern times1 in our ,universities1 is ,bishop1 also known on the ,continent under the somewhat similar name of ,bischof4 ,this1 according to ,swift1 is composed of 44444 ,fine oranges1 ,well roasted1 with sugar and wine in a cup1 ,they'll make a sweet ,bishop when gentlefolks sup4 ,this recipe is given verbatim1 in ',oxford ,night-caps4' ,,modern ,,recipes4 ,,punch4 ,the origin of this word is attributed by ,dr4 ,doran1 in his ',history of ,court ,fools1' to a club of ,athenian wits2 but how he could possibly connect the word ,punch with these worthies1 or derive it from either their sayings or doings1 we are totally at a loss to understand4 ,its more probable derivation is from the ,persian ,punj1 or from the ,sanscrit ,pancha1 which denotes the usual number of ingredients of which it is composed1 viz4 five4 ,in an old book of travels dated #afci1 a certain drink is mentioned called ,palepuntz1 used by the ,english at ,surat1 composed of brandy1 rose-water1 citron-juice1 and sugar1 the acid principle being absent4 ,we may here mention parenthetically that ',punch1 or ,the ,london ,charivari1' was started by five men1 of whom three were ,lemons1 viz4 ,mark ,lemon1 its editor1 ,leman ,rede1 and ,laman ,blanchard4 ,thus ',punch' was made with ,lemon-ade4 ,punch4 ,extract the oil from the rind of a large lemon by rubbing it with lumps of sugar2 add the juice of two lemons and of two ,seville oranges1 together with the finely pared rind2 put this into a jug with one pint of old rum1 one pint of brandy1 and half a pound of powdered lump sugar2 stir well together1 then add one pint of infusion of green tea and one quart of boiling water4 ,mix well1 and let it be served quite hot4 ,this is an excellent recipe for ordinary ,punch2 and the addition of green tea cannot be too strongly recommended4 ,in order to give ,punch a delicious softness1 one pint of calves'-foot jelly should be added to the above recipe4 ,the addition of two glasses of sherry will also be found an improvement4 ,noyau ,punch is made by adding two glasses of noyau to the above recipe4 ,a tablespoonful of ,guava jelly administers a fine flavour to a bowl of ,punch4 ,preserved tamarinds1 put into ,punch1 impart a flavour closely resembling arrack2 and a piece or two of preserved ginger1 with a little of the syrup1 added to ,punch1 acts as a stimulant1 and prevents any ill effects which might otherwise arise from the acids it contains4 ,gin ,punch4 ,as a mild summer drink1 and one readily made1 we recommend ,gin ,punch1 according to the following recipe3-- ,stir the rind of a lemon1 and the juice of half a one1 in half a pint of gin2 add a glass of ,maraschino1 half a pint of water1 and two tablespoonfuls of pounded white sugar1 and1 immediately before serving1 pour in two bottles of iced soda-water4 ,whisky ,punch4 ,to one pint of whisky and two glasses of brandy add the juice and peel of one lemon and a wine-glassful of boiling ale2 well stir into it half a pound of powdered sugar1 and add a quart of boiling water4 ,this is said to be the most fascinating tipple ever invented2 and1 to quote the words of ,basil ,hall1 ,it brightens a man's hopes1 crumbles down his difficulties1 softens the hostility of his enemies1 and1 in fact1 induces him for the time being to think generously of all mankind1 at the tiptop of which it naturally and good-naturedly places his own dear self4 ,if well made1 in our opinion1 there is no beverage1 in point of generosity and delicacy of flavour1 that can compare with ,milk ,punch1 for the compounding of which1 after numerous trials1 we offer the following recipe as the simplest and best4 ,milk ,punch4 ,to the rinds of twelve lemons and two ,seville oranges add #b-a_/b pounds of loaf sugar1 a bottle of pale brandy1 and a bottle and a half of old rum1 with a sufficient quantity of grated nutmeg4 ,let this mixture stand for a week2 then add the juice of the fruit1 with five pints of water2 lastly1 add one quart of boiling milk1 and1 after letting it stand for an hour1 filter the whole through jelly-bags till it is clear4 ,bottle for use4 ,the longer it is kept1 the better it will be4 ,in ,cambridge 7a town of no mean authority in such matters7 ,milk ,punch is made after the following fashion4 ,milk ,punch1 ,no4 #b4 ,boil together a quart of milk1 four ounces of loaf sugar1 a small stick of cinnamon1 and the peel of one lemon2 then beat together the yolks of three eggs and the white of one2 add the boiling compound very gradually1 and keep continually stirring the mixture while you pour into it a wine-glassful of rum and one of noyau4 ,serve hot4 ,the following compound is said to have been held in high esteem by the ,prince ,regent1 from whom it derives its name4 ,regent's ,punch4 ,to a pint of strongly made green tea add the rinds and juice of two lemons1 one ,seville orange1 and one sweet orange1 with half a pound of loaf sugar and a small stick of cinnamon4 ,after standing for half an hour1 strain the mixture1 add a bottle of champagne1 half a bottle of sherry1 three wine-glasses of brandy2 rum1 ,curaoa1 and noyau1 of each a wine-glass1 and a pint of pine-apple syrup4 ,ice the compound well1 and1 immediately before drinking1 add a bottle of soda-water4 ,cold ,milk ,punch 7,german ,recipe74 ,take the finely shredded rind of one1 and the juice of three1 lemons1 one bottle of rum1 one pint of arrack1 half a pound of loaf sugar1 and a quart of cold water4 ,when the sugar is melted1 pour one quart of boiling milk on the above1 cover it closely for four hours1 and run it through a bag1 as it should be quite bright4 ,many other recipes for ,punch might be added1 as1 for instance1 ,egg ,punch1 ,almond ,punch1 ,punch la ,romaine1 ,spiced ,punch1 ,red ,punch1 ,leander ,punch1 c42 but the few we have prescribed will be found reliable1 so we refrain from swelling the list4 ,the simple admixture of spirits and water is known either by the name of ,toddy1 which is a corruption of an ,indian word1 ,taddi 7the sap of the palm tree71 or by the more truly ,english appellation of ,grog1 which thus derives its cognomen4 ,before the time of ,admiral ,vernon1 rum was given to the seamen in its raw state2 but he ordered it to be diluted1 previously to delivery1 with a certain quantity of water4 ,this watering of their favourite liquor so incensed the tars that they nicknamed the ,admiral ,old ,grog1 in allusion to a grogram coat which he was in the habit of wearing4 ,addison gives a humorous account of a ,tory squire whom he met by chance in a country ride1 and who maintained1 over a bowl of punch1 to which he was evidently addicted1 that ,england would do very well if it would content itself with its own productions and not depend upon foreigners4 ,addison reminded him1 to his great discomfiture1 that1 of the favourite drink he was enjoying1 the water was the only constituent of ,english production1 and that the brandy1 lemon1 spice1 and sugar were all foreigners4 ,,wine ,,cups4 ,of all compound drinks1 those having wine for their basis require the greatest care in their preparation and the greatest nicety in their composition4 ,this will be evident to any one who remembers the fact that not one wine-drinker out of twenty1 except by subterfuge or previous practice1 can distinguish1 with his eyes closed1 a glass of sherry from one of port1 although1 when wide awake1 no one ever confounds the two2 and there are few who cannot distinguish a glass of fine old white port when they have the chance of tasting it4 ,it is not our object1 however1 to discourse on the merits of particular wines1 but to give recipes for the blending of such as are most palatable and wholesome4 ,first on the list we place ,claret ,cup1 as the most agreeable1 wholesome1 easily compounded1 and easily obtained1 and because1 under the new tariff1 most people have learned to distinguish the difference between the two varieties of ,french wines1 more or less1 though at present1 we fear1 to use an expression of ,charles ,dickens1 generally less4 ,claret ,cup1 ,no4 #a4 ,to a bottle of ,bordeaux claret add two wine-glasses of sherry and a wine-glass of ,maraschino1 with a small quantity of powdered lump sugar4 ,let the above be well iced and put into a cup1 and1 immediately before drinking1 add a bottle of soda-water which has also been previously iced1 and stick in two sprigs of borage4 ,claret ,cup1 ,no4 #b4 ,to each bottle of ordinary claret add a bottle of soda-water1 a glass of sherry or ,curaoa1 the peel of a lemon cut very thin1 with powdered sugar according to taste4 ,let the whole stand an hour or two before serving1 and then add some clear ice4 ,claret ,cup1 ,no4 #c4 ,to the above add a few slices of cucumber1 or some sprigs of borage instead of cucumber4 ,claret ,cup1 ,no4 #d4 ,as ,no4 #b1 except the lemon-peel1 for which substitute1 when in season1 a pint of ripe raspberries1 or four or five peaches or nectarines cut in slices4 ,this is a most delicious beverage4 ,mulled ,claret4 ,the best way of mulling claret is simply to heat it with a sufficient quantity of sugar and a stick of cinnamon4 ,to this a small quantity of brandy may be added1 if preferred4 ,burgundy ,cup4 ,to a bottle of ,burgundy wine add a wine-glass of noyau1 three wine-glasses of pine-apple syrup1 one wine-glass of brandy1 and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar2 ice well2 add a bottle of seltzer- or soda-water before drinking1 and serve with a sprig of borage4 ,hock ,cup1 ,no4 #a4 ,to a bottle of hock add three wine-glasses of sherry1 one lemon sliced1 and some balm or borage4 ,let it stand two hours2 sweeten to taste1 and add a bottle of seltzer-water4 ,hock ,cup1 ,no4 #b4 ,may-,trank is a most popular beverage on the ,rhine4 ,take with each bottle of light hock about a dozen sprigs of woodruff1 a quarter of an orange cut in small slices1 and about two ounces of powdered sugar4 ,the herbs are to be removed1 after having been in the wine half an hour4 ,a bottle of sparkling wine added to four or five bottles of still hock is a great improvement4 ,a little ice is recommended4 ,hock ,cup1 ,no4 #c4 ,instead of woodruff and orange take to each bottle of hock about half a pint of highly flavoured strawberries4 ,sugar as above4 ,the fruit is to be taken with the wine after having been in it about an hour4 ,hock ,cup1 ,no4 #d4 ,take some thin slices of pine-apple instead of the strawberries4 ,hock ,cup1 ,no4 #e4 ,take to each bottle of hock two highly flavoured peaches peeled and cut in slices4 ,sugar as above4 ,champagne ,cup4 ,to a bottle of champagne add a wine-glass of ,madeira or sherry1 a liqueur-glass of ,maraschino1 two slices of ,seville orange-peel1 and one slice of lemon-peel4 ,before drinking1 pour in a bottle of seltzer-water1 and serve with a sprig of verbena or a very small piece of thinly cut peeling of cucumber4 ,moselle ,cup1 ,no4 #a4 ,to a bottle of ,moselle add a sweet orange sliced1 a leaf or two of mint1 sage1 borage1 and the black currant4 ,let this stand for three hours2 strain off1 and sweeten to taste with clarified sugar4 ,moselle ,cup1 ,no4 #b4 ,to each bottle of still or sparkling ,moselle add one bottle of soda-water1 a glass of sherry or brandy1 four or five thin slices of pine-apple1 the peel of half a lemon cut very thin1 and powdered sugar according to taste3 let the whole stand about an hour1 and before serving add some lumps of clear ice4 ,moselle ,cup1 ,no4 #c4 ,as ,no4 #b1 except the pine-apple1 for which substitute a pint of fresh strawberries1 or three or four peaches or nectarines4 ,moselle ,cup1 ,no4 #d4 ,as ,no4 #b1 but add1 instead of fruit1 some sprigs of woodruff4 ,woodruff is a herb much used on the ,rhine for making ,may-,trank1 its peculiar flavour being most powerful in ,may3 it grows in forests in many parts of ,england4 ,moselle ,cup1 ,no4 #e4 ,when neither fruit nor woodruff can be obtained1 add1 instead of sherry or brandy1 a glass or two of milk-punch1 or essence of punch1 and a little more of the lemon-peel4 ,cutler's ,moselle ,cup4 ,half a pound of loaf sugar steeped in water to saturation1 one orange thinly sliced1 a handful of fresh young woodruff1 and two bottles of ,moselle4 ,n4,b4 ,hock may be substituted for ,moselle4 ,a bottle of ,bordeaux added to the foregoing improves it4 ,mulled ,port4 ,to a bottle of matured port add a wine-glass of sherry1 some cloves1 cinnamon1 nutmeg1 and a small piece of bruised lemon-peel4 ,simmer the spice in a little water1 then add the wine2 heat1 but do not let it boil1 and sweeten4 ,mulled ,sherry4 ,the same as for mulled port1 with the addition of a wine-glass of brandy4 ,sherry ,cobler4 ,fill a tumbler three parts full of pounded ice1 to which add two wine-glasses of sherry1 a tablespoonful of brandy1 two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar1 and two or three small pieces of lemon4 ,pour the mixture rapidly from one tumbler to another several times1 throw in half a dozen strawberries1 and drink the mixture through a straw1 or stick of maccaroni4 ,cider ,cup4 ,to a quart of cider add half a lemon squeezed1 three tablespoonfuls of powdered lump sugar1 two wine-glasses of pale brandy1 a wine-glass of ,curaoa1 two slices of lemon1 with grated nutmeg on the top4 ,ice well1 and serve with borage4 ,morgan's ,herefordshire ,cup4 ,to two bottles of cider add a bottle of port and a bottle of soda-water1 orange-peel1 and plenty of sugar4 ,ice well and serve with borage4 ,donaldson's ,cider ,cup4 ,to a bottle of cider add one wine-glass of sherry1 one liqueur-glass of orange-brandy1 half a liqueur-glass of ,curaoa1 and before drinking add a bottle of seltzer-water1 a sprig of mint1 and two or three lumps of ice4 ,the ,field ,cider ,cup4 ,mix together two quarts of old bottled cider1 sweeten to taste1 taking care that the sugar is perfectly melted1 add half a nutmeg grated1 a little powdered ginger1 a glass of brandy1 a glass of noyau1 cut a lemon into it in moderately thin slices1 and let it remain there4 ,make it two hours before wanted1 and stand in some ice4 ,there is no better recipe than the above4 ,white's ,club ,house ,cup4 ,three bottles of claret1 one bottle of water1 one wine-glass of ,madeira1 a liqueur-glass of ,maraschino1 four sweet oranges1 three thin slices of cucumber or a piece of borage1 half a pint of sirup1 the flower and young part of borage1 orange sliced with the peel2 let it stand for three hours1 then stir the sirup in one pound of sugar to half a pint of water1 boiled till it thickens4 ,loving ,cup4 ,one pint of mountain wine1 one of ,madeira1 and one of ,lisbon1 one bottle of champagne1 one liqueur-glass of pale brandy1 three thin slices of lemon1 sugar1 nutmeg4 ,ice to taste4 ,djonka 7a ,russian ,beverage74 ,one pound and a half of lump sugar in very large lumps1 one bottle of ,cognac1 one bottle of sherry or ,madeira1 three bottles of ,moselle or hock1 one bottle of champagne1 half a pound of blanched almonds1 the thinly shred rind of four lemons1 four peaches sliced1 or one pine-apple or preserved fruit4 ,these are the ingredients4 ,now to prepare the nectar4 ,on a large well-tinned copper stewpan place a gridiron1 and on the gridiron the big lumps of sugar4 ,pour by degrees the ,cognac over the sugar1 lighting it as you pour it on4 ,the sugar dissolves through the bars of the gridiron1 and the spirit is burnt out3 this constitutes caramel4 ,next add the sherry and fruity materials1 which allow to digest for fifteen minutes1 after which pour in the ,moselle1 and transfer the compound into a bowl4 ,on serving add a bottle of champagne4 ,serve round in flat champagne-glasses with a spoon to each for extracting the fruit4 7,cutler47 ,,ode ,,to ,,beer4 ,hail1 beer6 ,in all thy forms of ,porter1 ,stingo1 ,stout1 ,swipes1 ,double ,x1 ,ale1 ,heavy1 ,out and ,out1 ,most dear4 ,hail6 thou that mak'st man's heart as big as ,jove's1 ,of ,ceres' gifts the best1 ,that furnishest ,a cure for all our griefs1 a barm for all our--loaves4 ,oh6 ,sir ,john ,barleycorn1 thou glorious ,knight of ,malt-a1 ,may thy fame never alter3 ,great ,britain's ,bacchus6 pardon all our failings1 ,and with thy ,ale ease all our ailings4 ,i've emptied many a barrel in my time-- ,and1 may be1 shall empty many more ,before ,o'er the ,styx ,i sail4 ,e'en when an infant ,i was fond of ,ale1 ,a sort of ,ale-y-baby1 ,and still ,i love1 in spite of gibes and jokes ,of wine-ing folks4 ,for ,stout ,i've stoutly fought for many a year1 ,for ,ale ,i'll fight till ,i'm laid on my bier4 ,october6 oh1 intoxicating name6 no drink ,that e'er was made on earth can match with thee4 ,of best ,french brandy in the ,palais ,royal ,i've emptied many a phial1 ,and think ,that double ,x beats ,o4,d4,v4 ,on thy banks1 ,rhine1 ,i've drank such wine ,as ,bacchus' self might well unsober2 ,but1 oh6 ,johannisberg thy beams are shorn ,by our ,john ,barleycorn1 ,and ,hock is not ,hock-tober4 ,as for the rest1 ,cape1 ,claret1 ,calcavella1 ,they are but leather and prunella1 ,stale1 flat1 and musty4 ,by the side of ,ale ,imperial ,tokay ,itself gives way1 ,sherry turns pale1 ,and ,port grows crusty4 ,rum1 ,whisky1 ,hollands seem so much sour crout1 ,and ,hodges's ,mountain-,dew turns out ,a mere ,hodge-,podge4 ,of ,bishops e'en1 god wot6 ,i don't much like the flavour1 ,politically speaking 7but1 then1 politics are not ,my trade72 ,exception should be made ,in ,doctor ,maltby's favour4 ,in vino veritas they say2 but that's a fable1 ,a most egregious blunder4 ,i've been at many a wine-bibbing ere now1 ,and vow1 ,for one that told the truth across the table1 ,i've seen a dozen lying under4 ,besides1 as old ,sam ,johnson said once1 ,i've no patience ,with men who never tell the sober truth ,but when they're drunk1 and aren't to be believed1 forsooth1 ,except in their lie-bations4 ,oh6 do not think1 you who these praises hear1 ,don't think my muse be-mused with beer1 ,nor that in speaking thus my pleasure ,i go beyond beer measure4 ,but stay1 ,it's time to end this lay2 ,tho' ,i could go on rhyming for a year ,in praise of ,beer1 ,and think it sport2 ,but many folks ,i know like something short4 ,,beer ,,cups4 ,these cups should always be made with good sound ale1 but not too strong2 and should invariably be drank from the tankard1 and not poured into glasses1 as they are generally more agreeable to the taste than to the sight1 and it is imperative that they should be kept hot4 ,hot ,ale ,cup4 ,to a quart of ale1 heated1 add two wine-glasses of gin1 one wine-glass of sherry1 two tablespoonfuls of ,american bitters1 plenty of cloves and cinnamon1 and four tablespoonfuls of moist sugar4 ,copus ,cup4 ,heat two quarts of ale2 add four wine-glasses of brandy1 three wine-glasses of noyau1 a pound of lump sugar1 and the juice of one lemon4 ,toast a slice of bread1 stick a slice of lemon on it with a dozen cloves1 over which grate some nutmeg1 and serve hot4 ,donaldson's ,beer ,cup4 ,to a pint of ale add the peel of half a lemon1 half a liqueur-glass of noyau1 a bottle of seltzer-water1 a little nutmeg and sugar1 and ice to taste4 ,freemasons' ,cup4 ,a pint of ,scotch ale1 a pint of mild beer1 half a pint of brandy1 a pint of sherry1 half a pound of loaf sugar1 and plenty of grated nutmeg4 ,this cup may be drank either hot or cold4 ,egg ,flip4 ,add the whites and yolks of three eggs1 beaten together with three ounces of lump sugar1 to half a pint of strong ale2 heat the mixture nearly to the boiling-point2 then put in two wine-glasses of gin or rum 7the former being preferable71 with some grated nutmeg and ginger2 add another pint of hot ale1 and pour the mixture frequently from one jug to another before serving4 ,,liqueurs4 ,under this head we supply only a few recipes which1 by experience1 we know to be good1 omitting a long list of the rarer and finer kinds which are imported from abroad1 with the advice that it is better to purchase liqueurs of first-rate quality from a first-class house1 rather than produce an inferior article of one's own making4 ,curaoa4 ,to every wine-quart of the best pale brandy add the very finely pared rinds of two ,seville oranges and of one lemon1 and let the mixture stand for three weeks4 ,then carefully strain off the liquid1 and add as much finely powdered sugar-candy as the liquid will dissolve 7about a pound to each bottle74 ,the mixture should be frequently shaken1 for a month4 ,if the rind of a shaddock can be procured1 a third part of it1 mixed with the orange1 will impart a peculiar aromatic and very delicious flavour to the cordial4 ,gin1 rum1 or whisky may be substituted for brandy in this recipe1 but not with an equally good effect4 ,cherry ,brandy4 ,to each wine-bottle of brandy add a pound of ,morello cherries 7not too ripe71 and half a pint of the expressed juice of the small black cherry called ,brandyblacks4 ,let this stand for a week1 and then add half a pound of powdered lump sugar and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar-candy1 with half an ounce of blanched bitter almonds4 ,the longer it is kept1 the better it will become4 ,where the juice of the black cherry cannot be obtained1 sirup of mulberries will be found an excellent substitute4 ,brandy ,bitters4 ,to each gallon of brandy add seven ounces of sliced gentian-root1 five ounces of dried orange-peel1 two ounces of seeds of cardamoms1 one ounce of bruised cinnamon1 half an ounce of cloves1 and a small quantity of cochineal to colour it4 ,many other ingredients may be added which complicate the flavour2 but none will make the above compound more wholesome or palatable4 ,ginger ,brandy4 ,to each bottle of brandy add two ounces of the best ginger bruised2 let it stand for a week2 then strain the liquid through muslin1 and add a pound of finely powdered sugar-candy4 ,this should be kept at least one year4 ,hunting-flask4 ,as to the best compound for a hunting-flask1 it will seldom be found that any two men perfectly agree2 yet1 as a rule1 the man who carries the largest1 and is most liberal with it to his friends1 will be generally esteemed the best concocter4 ,some there are who prefer to all others a flask of gin into which a dozen cloves have been inserted1 while others1 younger in age and more fantastic in taste1 believe in equal parts of gin and noyau1 or of sherry and ,maraschino4 ,for our own part1 we must admit a strong predilection for a pull at a flask containing a well-made cold punch1 or a dry ,curaoa4 ,then1 again1 if we take the opinion of our huntsman1 who 7of course7 is a spicy fellow1 and ought to be up in such matters1 he recommends a piece of dry ginger always kept in the waistcoat pocket2 and does not care a fig for anything else4 ,so much for difference of taste3 but as we have promised a recipe1 the one we venture to insert is specially dedicated to the lovers of usquebaugh1 or the crathur3 it was a favourite of no less a man than ,robert ,burns1 and one we believe not generally known2 we therefore hope it will find favour with our readers1 as a wind-up to our brewings4 ,to a quart of whisky add the rinds of two lemons1 an ounce of bruised ginger1 and a pound of ripe white currants stripped from their stalks4 ,put these ingredients into a covered vessel1 and let them stand for a few days2 then strain carefully1 and add one pound of powdered loaf sugar4 ,this may be bottled two days after the sugar has been added4 ,printed by ,,taylor and ,,francis1 ,red ,lion ,court1 ,fleet ,street4 ,works ,published by ,,john ,,van ,,voorst1 ,,paternoster ,,row4 ,,house ,,dogs ,,and ,,sporting ,,dogs3 ,their ,varieties1 ,points1 ,management1 ,training1 ,breeding1 and ,diseases4 ,by ,,john ,,meyrick4 ,fep4 #hvo1 #cs4 #f;d4 ,a little canine encyclopdia4--,examiner4 ,,falconers' ,,favourites4 ,six ,coloured ,figures1 size of life1 of the ,british ,species now used in ,falconry4 ,drawn and described by ,w4 ,,brodrick4 ,folio1 #b #bs4 cloth4 ,,the ,,angler-,,naturalist2 a ,popular ,history of ,british ,fresh-water ,fish1 c4 c4 ,by ,h4 ,,cholmondeley ,,pennell4 ,illustrated by #aej ,engravings4 ,crown #hvo1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,anglers will do well to put ,mr4 ,pennell's book in their pocket when they go out fishing1 which will add to the enjoyment of the expedition4--,spectator4 ,,heraldry ,,of ,,fish4 ,by ,,thomas ,,moule4 ,nearly six hundred families are noticed in this work2 and besides the several descriptions of fish1 fishing-nets1 and boats1 are included also mermaids1 tritons1 and shell-fish4 ,nearly seventy ancient seals are described1 and upwards of twenty subjects in stained glass4 ,the engravings1 two hundred and five in number1 are from stained glass1 tombs1 sculpture and carving1 medals and coins1 rolls of arms1 and pedigrees4 #hvo1 #bas42 a few on large paper 7royal #hvo7 for colouring1 #b #bs4 ,,the ,,vicar ,,of ,,wakefield4 ,with #cb ,illustrations by ,,william ,,mulready1 ,r4,a42 engraved by ,,john ,,thompson4 ,first reprint4 ,square #hvo1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,and there are some designs in the volume in which art may justly boast of having added something to even the exquisite fancy of ,goldsmith4--,examiner4 ,,british ,,wild ,,flowers4 ,illustrated by ,,sowerby4 ,described by ,,johnson4 ,a large #hvo volume1 with coloured figures of the #aghj ,plants growing wild in this country1 including the ,ferns1 ,horsetails1 and ,club ,mosses1 #c #cs4 ,one of the prettiest natural-history volumes now on sale4--,the ,gardeners' ,chronicle4 ,,john ,,van ,,voorst1 #a ,,paternoster ,,row4 ,natural ,history of the ,british ,isles4 ,the following series of works1 being portions of a ,,natural ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,british ,,isles1 is illustrated by many hundred engravings2 every species has been drawn and engraved under the immediate inspection of the authors2 the best artists have been employed1 and no care or expense has been spared4 ,,quadrupeds4 ,by ,professor ,,bell4 ,a new ,edition4 7,in the press47 ,,birds4 ,by ,mr4 ,,yarrell4 ,third ,edition4 ,three vols4 #d #ads4 #f;d4 ,,coloured ,,illustrations ,,of ,,the ,,eggs ,,of ,,birds4 ,by ,mr4 ,,hewitson4 ,third ,edition4 #b vols4 #d #ads4 #f;d4 ,,reptiles4 ,by ,professor ,,bell4 ,second ,edition4 #bs4 ,,fishes4 ,by ,mr4 ,,yarrell4 ,third ,edition4 ,edited by ,sir ,,john ,,richardson4 ,two vols4 #c #cs4 ,,stalk-,,eyed ,,crustacea4 ,by ,professor ,,bell4 #hvo4 #a #es4 ,,sessile-,,eyed ,,crustacea4 ,by ,mr4 ,,spence ,,bate and ,professor ,,westwood4 ,two vols4 #hvo4 #c4 ,,star-,,fishes4 ,by ,professor ,,edward ,,forbes4 #aes4 ,,hydroid ,,zoophytes4 ,by the ,rev4 ,,thomas ,,hincks1 ,b4,a4 ,two vols4 #hvo4 #b #bs4 ,,zoophytes4 ,by ,dr4 ,,johnston4 ,second ,edition4 #b vols4 #b #bs4 ,,molluscous ,,animals ,,and ,,their ,,shells4 ,by ,professor ,,edward ,,forbes and ,mr4 ,,hanley4 ,four vols4 #hvo1 #f #ajs42 royal #hvo1 coloured1 #ac4 ,,forest ,,trees4 ,by ,mr4 ,,selby4 #a #hs4 ,,ferns4 ,by ,mr4 ,,newman4 ,third ,edition4 #ahs4 ,,fossil ,,mammals ,,and ,,birds4 ,by ,professor ,,owen4 #a #aas4 #f;d4 ,,john ,,van ,,voorst1 #a ,,paternoster ,,row4