,,toy ,,craft ,,toy ,,craft ,,leon ,h4 ,,baxter ,director of ,manual ,training1 ,public ,schools ,,st4 ,,johnsbury1 ,,vt4 ,author of ,boy ,bird ,house ,architecture1 and ,elementary ,concrete ,construction ,illustration ,,the ,,bruce ,,publishing ,,company ,,milwaukee1 ,,wisconsin ,copyright #aibb ,the ,bruce ,publishing ,company ,printed in the ,united ,states of ,america ,,introductory ,,notes ,the purpose of such a book as ,mr4 ,baxter's ,toy ,craft is to furnish definite instructions for the making of toys for boys and girls by the children themselves4 ,miniature furniture1 wooden dolls1 carts and animals--of how much greater value is one such plaything actually put together by a child than any number of toys made in a factory or imported from some foreign country8 ,truly a step forward has been taken in putting before the people a book which will unconsciously instill in the minds of the children the value of the hand-made in preference to the machine-made article4 ,not only is ,mr4 ,baxter peculiarly fitted to publish such a volume as ,toy ,craft in the light of his knowledge of manual training1 but also because of his understanding of the spirit behind the production of toys1 which bring such joy to the hearts of boys and girls4 ,to the satisfaction of actually making some wooden cart1 or bird1 or animal may be added the happiness of doing the work for some other child4 ,it is this vision of service for others which ,mr4 ,baxter has already caught and demonstrated1 and we feel sure that this little volume will do much to promote the improved individual construction of toys by children1 at the same time instilling into the hearts of the boys the joy of making something for somebody else1 of experiencing the truth1 ,it is more blessed to give than to receive4 ,,mabel ,e4 ,,turner1 ,field ,representative for ,junior ,service1 ,new ,england ,division1 ,american ,red ,cross4 99 99 99 99 99 ,one of the hard problems in manual training1 for boys up to twelve years of age1 is to find worth-while things to make1 within the capacity of boys of this age4 ,having been engaged in this kind of work for over twenty years ,i can appreciate the problems of the manual training instructor in the grades4 ,after carefully examining the cuts and directions for the various projects as given in ,toy ,craft1 and having seen the boys at work1 as well as the completed articles1 in ,mr4 ,baxter's department1 ,i can readily see how the great interest that is inspired in the boys is derived4 ,i heartily commend this book to all manual training teachers as a great help in the solution of their problems with boys4 ,,stanley ,j4 ,,steward1 ,m4 ,e41 ,director1 ,st4 ,johnsbury ,vocational ,school4 ,,preface ,each year ,american parents spend millions of dollars for toys for the children4 ,in a short time a large part of these toys are broken1 and lie in the corner or the back yard4 ,this is because of the destructive habits children have developed4 ,these same habits have been formed because1 since birth1 toys have cost these children nothing4 ,children1 like grown-ups1 value things and form habits in proportion to the cost to them4 ,they break up what costs them nothing1 and cherish and keep repaired what they1 themselves1 have made or purchased with self-denial or self-earned money4 ,the breaking of toys is bad1 but the effect upon the character of the child is infinitely worse4 ,destructive tendencies are developed1 while constructive ability is allowed to lie dormant and inactive4 ,the remedy for this is to develop the constructive rather than the destructive in children by buying them working outfits and books of instruction with which they can make and repair things for themselves4 ,in other words1 buy tools1 equipment and supplies rather than finished toys4 ,carlisle said1 ,man without tools is nothing2 man with tools is all4 ,education is to children what civilization is to the race4 ,what to buy for each particular child depends upon the age and tendencies of the child and is a matter parents must determine for themselves4 ,the important test is1 ,is it something that the child can use to make things for himself1 for others and for the home8 ,when purchasing tools it is an excellent plan to leave some part of the outfit for the children to make or to buy from money they themselves have earned4 ,in other words1 co-operate with the children instead of doing it all for them4 ,the writer speaks not only from the teacher's point of view1 but from the parent's as well4 ,the problems offered in this book are not only within the capabilities of the average child1 but are all tested and proven as being worth-while and appealing strongly to the child's ideals and imagination4 ,,leon ,h4 ,,baxter4 ,st4 ,johnsbury1 ,vt4 ,,table ,,of ,,contents ,page ,history of ,toy-,making #aa-c ,equipment #ac-d ,laying ,out ,work #ad ,transferring a ,design #ad-e ,adapting the ,problem to the ,boy's ,ability #ae ,finish and ,color #ae-g ,staining #ag-h ,method of ,jointing ,wood #ah-bj ,supports for ,holding ,coping ,saw ,work #bj ,support to be ,held in ,vise #bj-b ,supports for ,table ,use #bb ,the ,bench ,hook #bb-d ,simple ,tool ,sharpening #bd-f ,coping ,saw ,work #bf-g ,dowel ,sticks #bg ,picture ,puzzle ,construction #bg-h ,pelican #bi ,duck #cj ,goose #ca ,rhinoceros #cb ,elephant #cc ,rabbit #cd ,lamb #ce ,goat #cf ,rooster #cg ,camel #ch ,method of ,enlarging ,figures #ci-dj ,dippy ,duck #dj-a ,monitor #db-c ,merrimac #dd-e ,child's ,snow ,shovel #df-g ,the ,periscope #dg-h ,doll's ,ironing ,board 7,size ,a7 #di-ea ,doll's ,ironing ,board 7,size ,b7 #ea-c ,doll's ,ironing ,board 7,size ,c7 #ec-e ,doll's ,clothes ,rack #ee-g ,child's ,wash ,bench #eg-i ,child's ,step ,ladder #ei-fc ,doll's ,table with ,drawer #fb-d ,colonial ,doll's ,table #fd-f ,colonial ,doll's ,chair #ff-g ,ring-,the-,hook ,game #fh-i ,five ,post ,ring ,toss #fh-gb ,bean ,bag ,game #gb-d ,dart ,board ,game #gd-f ,darts #ge-g ,wind ,mill #gg-hj ,wind ,mill 7,type ,b7 #hj-b ,sand or ,water ,mill #hb-d ,doll's ,cradle #hd-g ,colonial ,doll ,cradle #hg-i ,doll's ,bed #hi-ia ,two ,types of ,stilts #ia-c ,child's ,cart #ic-e ,child's ,dump ,wagon #ie-i ,child's ,wheelbarrow 7,type ,a7 #ii-ajc ,child's ,wheelbarrow 7,type ,b7 #ajb-e ,clown ,running ,wheel #aje-i ,cock ,horse #aji-aj ,rocking ,rooster #aaa-ac ,kiddie ,kar #aac-ae ,kiddie ,koaster #aaf-ai ,ski ,skooter #aai-bb ,method of ,bending ,runners #aba-b ,ski ,skippers #abb-e ,doll ,sleigh #abe-h ,child's ,table #abh-cj ,child's ,chair #acj-a ,illustration3 ,girls ,making ,toys for a ,red ,cross ,christmas ,sale4 ,illustration3 ,a ,christmas ,sale of ,toys for the ,red ,cross4 ,illustration3 ,boy ,toy ,makers and ,some of their ,products4 ,illustration3 ,making ,toys in the ,school ,shop4 ,,toy ,,craft ,,history ,,of ,,toy-,,making4 ,to tell the history of toy-making from its earliest days it would be necessary to follow the story back through many centuries1 for the archaeologists1 in delving among the tombs of ancient ,greece and ,egypt1 have made the surprising discovery that children played with dolls1 and jointed dolls at that1 more than five thousand years ago4 ,moreover1 by the side of these dolls scientists have unearthed other playthings that children still crave3 doll's furniture1 animal toys and toys with wheels1 illustrating the methods of transportation of those early days4 ,these same scientists claim that the custom of playing with dolls and other toys is as old as the world itself and that playthings are1 and always have been1 just as necessary a constituent of human health and development as either food or medicine4 ,they claim that the reason that boys and girls crave toys is that nature requires them1 and to deprive children of such playthings would be to retard their mental growth and development4 ,the ,latin word trochus means a hoop for children4 ,the hoops of ,roman children were made of bronze and iron and were rolled by a sort of a crooked stick and sometimes had small bells attached4 ,pupa1 the ,latin word meaning a little girl1 applies to dolls which were made from rags1 wood1 wax1 ivory and terra cotta4 ,when the ,greek girls of that time married they dedicated their dolls to ,artemis2 the ,roman girls1 to ,venus2 but1 if they died before marriage1 their dolls were buried with them4 ,the ,latin word crepundia meant children's playthings1 such as rattles1 dolls1 toy hatchets and swords4 ,the toys made during the middle ages for the children of noble families and rich merchants1 show special care and fine workmanship4 ,many of them were of a religious nature in the form of the ,cross of the ,crusaders1 or military in origin1 like miniature knights on horseback4 ,the toys of this period were generally carved by goldsmiths4 ,the ,american ,indians and the ,esquimaux made dolls from bits of skin and fur of wild animals and gaily decorated them with shells1 beads and feathers4 ,they also carved small models of animals and human beings from wood and bone4 ,the oldest ,european toy manufacturing center is ,nuremberg1 ,germany4 ,this town is especially noted for its metal playthings1 like the lead soldiers1 which were the delight of our childhood4 ,sonneburg1 in ,germany1 is the greatest ,european center for the manufacture of wooden toys4 ,winchendon1 ,mass41 is the greatest toy manufacturing center in the ,united ,states1 nearly every enterprise in that town being toy-making4 ,in spite of the early origin of toys the progress of manufacturing playthings has been so slow that1 even as late as one hundred years ago1 the types of toys were few in number1 simple in construction and extremely expensive1 especially in the ,united ,states4 ,there was no systematic manufacture of such articles1 and1 as the cost of importation was very high1 comparatively few persons could afford such means of amusement for their children4 ,the children of those days accepted more primitive things1 dolls that were often merely pieces of cloth folded and pinned in such a manner as to suggest the outline that was not there4 ,a few other toys such as hoops1 jumping-jacks1 tenpins1 marbles1 battledore-and-shuttlecock and alphabet blocks1 represented the limit of the toy-makers' stock4 ,in ,america the toy-making industry is of quite recent origin4 ,before #ahge more than ninety per cent of the toys sold in this country were of foreign manufacture1 and those that were made here were never exported to other countries4 ,today1 however1 about five per cent of the toys sold here are made abroad and the rest are manufactured here in our own country4 ,up to #ahge there was not a doll factory in the ,united ,states4 ,today1 while we import some dainty toys from ,france1 ,germany and ,switzerland1 nearly all the newest1 unique and mechanical productions are made in ,america4 ,simple toys are mostly made of wood and metal1 and the same principles employed by mechanical engineers1 in duplicating parts of machinery1 are used in making duplicate parts of toys4 ,when a design has been decided on1 it is reduced to its most simple element4 ,jigs are then made so that each piece will be an exact duplicate of every similar piece1 and the construction is pushed through on the ,american factory system4 ,some toys are very elaborate1 costing several hundred dollars4 ,these are readily purchased1 however1 by people of means4 ,in the author's opinion the best kind of toys are those which suggest rather than fulfill1 and those with which the child can really do something4 ,mechanical toys1 which supply their own energy1 should not be allowed to take the place of those into which the child must infuse part of his own life and energy4 ,it follows naturally1 then1 that the toys made by the children themselves are the ideal ones4 ,,equipment4 ,the following drawings vary in difficulty from those within the ability of a nine or ten-year-old child to those which should not be attempted by a child under junior high school age4 ,of course there are younger boys1 who possess especial ability in this line of work and who can successfully carry through projects which the ordinary child of a like age would fail to satisfactorily complete4 ,such boys are1 however1 the exception4 ,for the younger workman the following outfit is ample3 ,one coping saw frame4 ,one dozen saw blades4 ,a sloyd knife or a pocket knife with a small stone to keep it sharp4 ,some ,no4 #a sandpaper1 a small can of glue and some one inch brads4 ,the whole outfit will cost about a dollar4 ,a small plane is very convenient1 but it is not absolutely necessary for work for younger children4 ,a board on which the sawing is done1 to prevent marring the table1 can be made from a piece of boxwood #g_/h #f #ab4 ,a hole should be bored about three inches from one end and half way between the sides1 and a ,v-shaped notch should be cut from the end of the board to the hole4 ,the photograph on ,page #bj shows the sawing board in use and illustrates two methods of constructing and holding the board4 ,see also ,plate #b for method of making these boards4 ,if a vise is available matters are very much simplified4 ,with the above described outfit1 toy animals1 toy furniture1 jumping-jacks and other simple toys of a like nature can be made4 ,the material should be thin wood from the thickness of cigar box wood 7which by the way is especially good to use for some of the toys71 up to one-half inch in thickness4 ,composition board1 such as ,beaver ,board and similar wall board1 is very good for the smaller toys but lacks strength and cannot be handled roughly4 ,three-ply veneered wood may be obtained from firms which specialize in veneer4 ,it is strong and serviceable but a little more expensive than the plain wood4 ,bass and pine are excellent woods to use in toy-making1 as they work very easily and are light in weight4 ,for the older boy1 who will no doubt be handy about the house1 the following tools are suggested3 #a ,rip saw4 #a ,turning saw4 #a ,claw hammer4 #a ,screw driver4 #a ,half round file1 ,no4 #aj4 #a ,ruler4 #a ,jack1 or smooth1 plane4 #a ,brace1 set of bits and countersink4 ,a #a_/b and #a chisels4 #a ,try square4 #a ,pair of #f dividers4 #a ,knife4 ,this outfit should cost about #be4 ,other tools may be added by the boy himself as the necessity arises4 ,if a bench is not available at first1 a temporary one may be made from a stout dry goods box and a more satisfactory one purchased later with money earned by the boy by making things for others4 ,cheap tools are an expensive investment as they are never satisfactory4 ,a few tools of good quality should be purchased to start with1 and others should be added as necessity demands and funds permit4 ,,laying ,,out ,,work4 ,for the young beginner it will be necessary to have patterns of animals and other toys to trace around1 before cutting out the forms4 ,in the author's opinion originality should be always encouraged in a boy when the original designs can be successfully worked out to completion by the boy4 ,with beginners1 however1 considerable tact must be used in leading them on to work out original ideas through the medium of the sketching pencil4 ,only very few have the ability to carry out an idea which they may have1 and if allowed to attempt it without a trial on paper the resulting product is most always a failure4 ,as stated before1 the first work should be tracings from well-designed patterns4 ,these1 then1 can be successfully worked out1 and the result is satisfying to the mind of the child and not a discouraging failure4 ,,transferring ,a ,,design ,,to ,,wood4 ,a design may be traced by placing a piece of transparent paper over the desired drawing and outlining it with a pencil4 ,the resulting tracing is cut out1 placed on a stiff piece of cardboard or fiber board1 and redrawn on this4 ,the board is then cut carefully with scissors or a sharp knife4 ,this pattern may be used for a long time and other patterns may be made from it in a similar manner4 ,another simple method is to place a piece of carbon paper beneath the desired drawing1 carbon side down1 and to go over the lines of the drawing with a medium-hard pencil4 ,this transfer may be made directly on the wood or on a piece of cardboard which is to be cut out and used as a pattern4 ,for cut-up picture puzzles the picture is pasted directly on the wood and1 after drying1 is cut at random4 ,see ,plate #e4 ,,adapting ,,the ,,problem ,,to ,,the ,,boy',s ,,ability4 ,as the child's efficiency increases and he leaves the simpler toy forms for others of increasing difficulty1 he should be encouraged to read the working drawings of the article which he intends to make4 ,show him how to discover from the drawing the lengths1 widths1 thicknesses of the pieces to be made and1 after carefully checking him up1 let him work out his own salvation for a while4 ,in other words1 do not do it all for him4 ,let the result be at least #ij per cent the boy's own work4 ,be ready1 however1 to assist at the right moment and never turn a deaf ear to the persistent question1 ,why8 ,by following this logical method of procedure in teaching1 the writer has found that the young craftsman is ready a great deal earlier to work out original ideas and designs to a practical and successful conclusion4 ,,finish ,,and ,,color4 ,after all cutting with edged tools has been completed1 all pieces should be carefully sanded to insure the removal of all scars1 pencil lines and other imperfections4 ,sandpaper should be used on a small block4 ,care should be taken that no paper hangs over the block1 thus rounding the edges of the work being finished4 ,in sanding over a first coat of shellac or paint a block is not used1 but the sandpaper is folded two or three times and used under the finger tips4 ,care must be taken especially not to wear through the finish on the edges4 ,paint is difficult and unsatisfactory for younger children to use4 ,colors handled by beginners will run together and will be dauby in appearance and a detriment rather than a finish to a toy4 ,added to this is the likelihood of a generous application on the painter's hands and clothing4 ,the writer has had excellent results in using the ordinary colored wax crayons on toys4 ,crayon is easy to apply1 has a pleasing color tone1 is clean and very satisfactory for the beginner4 ,after all of a toy has been colored a fairly heavy line may be drawn free-hand1 at the point of contact of the colors1 with an ordinary drafting pen and ,india ink4 ,pains should be taken to see that the ink is dry in one place before applying in another4 ,if the crayon has been put on with pressure and uniformly deposited over the surface the ink will take without spreading and the result is a clean-cut finished appearance4 ,for more advanced workers the toys should be painted with either commercial or enamel paints1 which are available on the market in all colors1 or with colors mixed by the boy himself4 ,if the boy mixes his own colors much of the mystery of the ready-mixed paints is done away with4 ,by adding to white enamel a small amount of a selected color1 ground in oil1 various tones of the color may be obtained4 ,in painting any object a first or priming coat is applied4 ,flat white is an excellent all-round primer4 ,after the priming coat has dried thoroughly on a toy1 it should be sanded lightly to remove any rough places with ,no4 #j sandpaper and dusted4 ,then the final coat should be applied4 ,gray is also very good for the first coat except where a white or very light colored paints are to be used for the finished coat4 ,when painting small toys or parts of larger toys it is economy to have a string or wire stretched between two hooks six or seven feet from the floor1 on which to hang the painted article4 ,illustration3 ,careful painting is as essential to the success of a toy as good construction4 ,drive an inch brad into some part of the toy that will not be seen1 such as the lower edge of the animal toys1 and attach a short length of string or wire to this and hang up as before described4 ,this nail will be handy to hold the toy by while painting and when hung up is out of the way1 is not touching anything to cause marks on the paint1 and is high enough up to be where the temperature of the room will assist in the drying process4 ,remove this nail after the toy is dry4 ,if possible toys should dry in a special room where it is quiet1 with no dust stirring or drafts blowing1 and where the temperature is fairly uniform1 not falling below #fj degrees4 ,paint should be applied with the tip of the brush1 holding the brush nearly vertical1 using a uniform stroke and taking care to prevent tears or surplus paint running over an edge4 ,the brush should be in proportion to the size of the article painted1 and the strokes should be outward toward the edges rather than from the edges inward4 ,features and fine lines on the toys may be placed with ,no4 #c round sable brush or with ,india ink in an ordinary drafting pen4 ,the latter method of outlining and drawing in features has proved most successful with the writer's classes1 as the solidity of the pen allows a firm pressure on the surface of the work and insures a uniform line4 ,fine or coarse lines may be made by adjusting the pen to suit the desired need4 ,considerable skill is needed to satisfactorily place lines with a fine pointed brush held in the hands of an inexperienced boy1 and the drafting-pen method simplifies the problem immensely4 ,adjoining colors1 outlined by this method1 improve the appearance of the toy fifty per cent4 ,dull colors may be livened up by applying a coat of white shellac or varnish4 ,toys having parts of various colors1 such as carts1 etc41 should have the different parts painted before assembling4 ,,staining4 ,before attempting to stain a toy1 the wood should be carefully examined to see that all scars1 glue or scratches have been removed4 ,this is very important as the stain will show up all imperfections in the wood very plainly4 ,enough stain should be poured in a shallow cup for the piece of work at hand and should then be applied with a brush with the grain of the wood in long narrow bands from one end of the work to the other4 ,the stain should be wiped with a piece of waste or cloth soon after being applied1 removing all surplus stain and thus bringing out the grain of the wood4 ,pains must be taken when staining the edges not to allow the stain to run over on the adjacent surface4 ,if it does the stain should be quickly wiped off with a piece of waste before it causes the surface to be unevenly stained4 ,there will probably be no necessity in toy construction to use filler on the wood so the method of applying this will be omitted4 ,next apply a coat of white shellac 7reduced by one part of alcohol to three parts of shellac71 brushing it on quickly with the grain of the wood4 ,do not have too much shellac on the brush4 ,if laps or runs show1 work them out with the brush4 ,after the shellac has dried eight or ten hours it should be rubbed lightly with ,no4 #j sandpaper4 ,be careful not to sand through the shellac1 particularly on the edges4 ,a second coat may be applied if desired4 ,for the last coat apply a coat of either hard or liquid wax1 the latter being preferable4 ,shake the can or jar before applying liquid wax4 ,apply evenly with a soft cloth and allow it to dry for an hour4 ,rub down to the proper luster with a soft clean cloth4 ,two or more coats of wax may be applied if desired4 ,,method ,,of ,,jointing ,,wood4 ,if1 on account of width1 certain pieces of work cannot be obtained from material at hand1 two pieces may have to be joined together4 ,one edge of each piece to be joined should be carefully planed square and straight4 ,keep trying the two edges together until a satisfactory joint is obtained1 one so satisfactory that when the edges are placed together no joint line is visible4 ,when such a joint is obtained we are ready to take the next step--to locate holes for dowels4 ,this method is shown in ,plate #a1 ,fig4 ,a4 ,here the two pieces are placed face to face and lines are squared across the two edges1 planning enough space to insure a strong job4 ,two or three dowels are usually sufficient4 ,locate the centers of all these lines so that the spur of the bit will come equidistant from each edge1 as shown4 ,bore the holes at least twice as deep as the wood is thick4 ,thus for half inch stock the holes should be at least an inch deep4 ,for half inch and three-eighths inch wood the hole should be bored with a quarter inch bit1 for wood three-quarter inch to one inch thick a half inch bit should be used4 ,take extreme care in boring the holes to see that the bit is at right angles to the edge of the wood1 otherwise difficulties will arise when we come to put the work together4 ,after all holes are bored1 the round sticks called dowels should be cut1 one-eighth inch shorter than the combined depths of the two holes4 ,this allowance is made so that glue may work under the ends of the dowels and also that the dowels may not be too long and thus prevent the edges of the joint from coming together4 ,apply glue to the dowels and insert them in the holes and spread glue on both of the edges1 as shown in ,fig4 ,b1 ,plate #a4 ,illustration3 ,plate #a4 ,,method ,,of ,,jointing ,,wood ,place the work in clamps1 if available1 protecting the edges of the wood from the iron of the clamps with small pieces or blocks of soft wood4 ,fig4 ,c shows the clamps in position4 ,if no clamps are at hand a makeshift clamp may be made1 as shown in ,fig4 ,d4 ,in using this clamping arrangement a strong piece of wood should be nailed to the floor1 where such nailing will do no harm1 driving the nails only about three-quarters of the way in4 ,place the wood to be clamped against this and nail two wedge shaped pieces about an inch and a half away1 as shown4 ,prepare other pieces1 also of wedge shape1 of a proper size to drive into place1 as indicated4 ,by a careful study of ,fig4 ,d the important features of such a method of clamping will be understood4 ,the cold glue that comes in cans ready for use will be found most convenient for the beginner to use4 ,the clamps should remain on the work overnight1 and when removed the two surfaces of the wood must be cleaned of all glue and planed4 ,,supports ,,for ,,holding ,,coping ,,saw ,,work4 ,in ,plate #b are shown two devices for holding work while using the coping saw4 ,fig4 ,a is a type of support suitable for use in a vise and is of a height that will enable the workman to stand while sawing4 ,fig4 ,b is lower1 and the sawing is done while sitting in a chair4 ,this type is designed for use where there is no vise and is held secure by a clamp1 as is shown in the sketch4 ,illustration3 ,boys using correctly the ,supports for ,coping ,saw ,work detailed in ,plate #b4 ,,support ,,to ,,be ,,held ,,in ,,vise4 ,in making this support the following method should be followed3 ,the back piece is first made #g_/h #f-c_/d #bj4 ,the top is made #g_/h #f-c_/d #ab and the brace #g_/h #c #h-a_/b4 ,this brace tapers to a point at the lower end4 ,two small cleats are #g_/h #a-a_/d #f-c_/d and are attached to the upright piece #a-g_/h up from the bottom edge4 ,this allows the support to set firmly in the vise4 ,measure in from one end of the top piece #e and have this point come half way between the sides4 ,at this point a hole is carefully bored with a #c_/d bit4 ,on this same end measure in from each edge #b-a_/d4 ,from these points draw lines tangent to the edges of the circle1 as shown4 ,cut out this ,v-shaped notch4 ,illustration3 ,plate #b4 ,,supports ,,for ,,holding ,,coping ,,saw ,,work ,bore all holes shown on the drawing with a bit that will allow using #a-a_/d or #a-a_/b4 ,no4 #h flat-head screws4 ,have all surfaces sanded smoothly and assemble with glue and screws4 ,,support ,,for ,,table ,,use4 ,for the support shown in ,fig4 ,b1 ,plate #b1 we make the upright #g_/h #f-c_/d #h-g_/h4 ,the top is cut #g_/h #f-c_/d #ab and the base #g_/h #e #f-c_/d and the upright brace #g_/h #c #h4 ,the top has the same ,v-shaped notch cut in it as the other form of support4 ,bore all necessary holes1 sandpaper and assemble4 ,the clamp shown in the sketch answers the purpose very nicely and may be purchased for a small sum at any hardware store4 ,,the ,,bench ,,hook4 ,the bench hook is a very useful article to have about the work bench4 ,it is made of hard wood1 preferably maple4 ,the drawing is shown in ,plate #c4 ,the main piece is made #g_/h #f #ab4 ,two cross cleats are made1 one being #g_/h #a-a_/b #f and the other #g_/h #a-a_/b #e4 ,holes are bored and countersunk at the places shown in the drawing4 ,great care must be taken in cutting these three pieces of wood to see that every edge is square and true4 ,one of the cleats is attached on one side of the board even with the end1 while the other is placed on the other side on the opposite end4 ,these are held in place with glue and #a-a_/d ,no4 #h flat-head screws4 ,by referring to the drawing and the sketch the idea may be readily seen4 ,it will be noticed that the short cleat has its end even with the left-hand edge1 thus leaving a space of an inch at the right4 ,when used with this side up it is for the purpose of sawing off small pieces of wood with the back saw1 and when used with the other side up1 on which the long cleat is attached1 it is for the purpose of planing the end of a piece of wood across the grain4 ,illustration3 ,plate #c4 ,,the ,,bench ,,hook ,if a piece of wood is set up in a vise for end planing and the planing is done across the grain1 the fibers on the further edge have no support but break away1 as shown in ,fig4 ,c1 ,plate #c4 ,in using the bench-hook the wood lies flat on the board and fits tight against the long cleat1 and the plane is laid flat on its side and pushed back and forth4 7,plate #c1 ,fig4 ,a47 ,it can be readily seen that supported as it now is1 the piece of wood being planed will not splinter or break on its further edge4 ,pains must be taken1 however1 to keep the plane flat on its side1 not raising it on its edge at all1 for by so doing the resulting planed edge will not be square4 ,this bench-hook may be made quite easily by the beginner and besides being a good problem1 is a very helpful addition to the tool outfit4 ,it works very well when planing wood not over six or seven inches wide4 ,wood wider than this should be planed as follows3 ,place the piece of wood upright in the vise with the end grain uppermost1 and plane about three-quarters of the way across the edge4 ,then turn the piece and plane the remaining part back in the opposite direction4 ,by so doing the end of the wood will not be split4 ,figures ,a and ,b1 ,plate #c1 show the operation of the bench-hook for both sawing and planing4 ,,simple ,,tool ,,sharpening4 ,in order to do good1 clean-cut1 accurate work it is very necessary that all cutting tools be kept sharp4 ,and it is important that every boy who undertakes toy making have an elementary knowledge of the subject1 especially an understanding of how to properly sharpen the knife1 the chisel and the plane blade4 ,if the tool is very dull1 with nicks in the cutting edge1 it should be ground first on the grindstone4 ,it is quite important that the blade be held at the proper angle1 about #be degrees on the stone4 ,a suitable tool holder1 such as is shown in the illustration on ,page #bf1 is a very useful article to have in the tool equipment4 ,the tool is held in place1 bevel side down1 by thumbscrews1 and projects beyond the holder a little over half an inch4 ,the grindstone should be thoroughly wet to prevent heating the tool and also to insure the washing away of the fine particles of steel from the surface of the stone4 ,the round shape of the stone causes the bevel of the tool to be concave if held steadily in one position1 as shown in ,fig4 ,a1 ,plate #d4 ,fig4 ,b shows the incorrect result if the blade is not held evenly on the stone4 ,it can be readily seen that the latter result will not make a very sharp cutting edge4 ,care should be taken when grinding not to round the corners of the tool4 ,the theory of the cutting edge of the tool is the same as that of the wedge2 the thinner the wedge the easier it is to drive it4 ,however1 the wedge1 as well as the tool1 must be thick enough to stand the strain of being driven into the wood1 or the material which is to be split or cut4 ,too long and thin a bevel1 while sharp at first1 soon loses its edge through usage1 while too blunt an edge makes the tool unsatisfactory to work with4 ,illustration3 ,plate #d4 ,,simple ,,tool ,,sharpening ,the grindstone leaves the tool edge rough1 or with a wire edge1 as it is called4 ,this roughness is removed on the oil stone4 ,one or two drops of thin stone oil should be placed on the stone and the tool placed bevel side flat on the surface of the stone4 ,work with a circular motion1 bearing on the tool with uniform pressure4 ,turn the blade over1 bevel side up1 seeing that the blade lies perfectly flat on the stone4 ,work with a similar motion4 ,repeat these operations until the blade is as sharp as desired4 ,wipe the oil from the tool and test by drawing the blade lightly across the thumb4 ,if the blade clings to the skin it will be found sharp enough4 ,fig4 ,c1 on ,plate #d1 shows the correct and incorrect methods of oil-stoning the tool blade4 ,always wipe the stone dry after using1 as the oil will dry and gum up the grinding surface if not kept clean4 ,tool grinding is an important and rather difficult operation at first and skill comes only with continued practice4 ,in sharpening a knife-blade on an oilstone care should be taken to keep the blade nearly flat on the stone in order to get a thin1 sharp edge4 ,the knife should be sharpened first on one side and then on the other1 until the desired edge is obtained4 ,fig4 ,d1 ,plate #d1 shows the right and wrong methods of holding the knife blade on the stone4 ,figures ,e and ,f show the results of careless sharpening4 ,fig4 ,g is sharpened correctly4 ,illustration3 ,grinding ,tool on ,grindstone using ,tool ,holder4 ,,coping ,,saw ,,work4 ,the following plates of birds and animals 7,plates #f to #ag7 are especially interesting to the beginner and are excellent for the novice to prove and improve his skill with the coping saw4 ,wood from #a_/d to #a_/b in thickness is best for this type of toy1 #c_/h being a good medium thickness to use4 ,pulp board1 such as ,beaver board1 is also very good1 as there is no grain and1 therefore1 little liability of splitting4 ,pulp board saws very easily and takes paint nicely4 ,all of these toys are mounted on a wood base1 made of #a_/b wood1 of a size shown on the various drawings4 ,the animal is attached to the base with glue and #a-a_/d brads4 ,wheels can be made from a round stick 7called a dowel7 an inch in diameter by carefully sawing off pieces #c_/h thick4 ,holes are bored at the middle point of these wheels large enough to allow them to turn easily on a #a ,no4 #f round-head blue screw4 ,washers should be placed on the screws on both sides of the wheels4 ,plate #f gives a general idea of the toy base4 ,,dowel ,,sticks4 ,dowel sticks are very useful to the toy maker and an assortment of various sizes should be kept on hand4 ,they are very handy in many ways in toy making and furniture construction4 ,they come in sizes from #a_/d to #a in diameter or larger1 in #cj lengths1 and cost from two to three cents apiece4 ,dowel sticks are usually carried in stock by local hardware men or may be obtained from manufacturers of mill work4 ,,picture ,,puzzle ,,construction4 ,the problem illustrated in ,plate #e is very interesting and especially good for the beginner4 ,first1 select a picture of the size desired from a calendar or discarded magazine4 ,colored pictures are the best4 ,prepare a piece of #a_/d soft wood1 such as bass or pine1 and glue the picture to the surface1 rolling and pressing out air bubbles and smoothing away all wrinkles4 ,place a weight on the picture and allow it to dry overnight4 ,holding the coping saw so that the blade is straight up and down1 or in other words1 at right angles with the surface of the work1 saw out irregular shaped pieces similar to those shown in the accompanying drawing4 ,if these pieces are placed in a neat ,christmas box1 such as may be purchased at the five-and-ten-cent store1 it will make a very pleasing ,christmas gift4 ,illustration3 ,plate #e4 ,,picture ,,puzzle ,,construction ,illustration3 ,plate #f4 ,,pelican ,illustration3 ,plate #g4 ,,duck ,illustration3 ,plate #h4 ,,goose ,illustration3 ,plate #i4 ,,rhinoceros ,illustration3 ,plate #aj4 ,,elephant ,illustration3 ,plate #aa4 ,,rabbit ,illustration3 ,plate #ab4 ,,lamb ,illustration3 ,plate #ac4 ,,goat ,illustration3 ,plate #ad4 ,,rooster ,illustration3 ,plate #ae4 ,,camel ,illustration3 ,plate #af4 ,,method ,,of ,,enlarging ,,figures ,,method ,,of ,,enlarging ,,figures4 ,if a figure shown in a book or in any picture is to be enlarged the following method is very simple3 ,enclose the figure in a rectangle and divide it in quarter inch squares1 like the drawing of the duck in ,plate #af4 ,if the drawing is to be enlarged twice the original size1 draw a rectangle on a piece of paper or cardboard twice as large as the picture4 ,divide it into exactly the same number of squares1 which will now be twice as large as before1 or one-half inch on a side4 ,letter and number all parts to agree4 ,start now and sketch the enlarged figure1 having the lines pass through the same places in the squares of the large rectangle as in the small4 ,with a little patience it will be surprising how accurate a copy can be made4 ,a picture may be reduced by the same method4 ,,dippy ,,duck4 ,this toy is larger than the regular cut-out figure and has added action by the placing of the inner piece off-center on the larger wheel1 thus causing the duck to move up and down as the toy is pulled along on the floor4 ,as shown in the drawing 7,plate #ag71 the base is made of four separate pieces1 because it is easier to construct it this way than to cut out the slot from a solid piece4 ,the wood used is #g_/h pine1 the two long pieces being #a-a_/b wide by #ae long and the two end pieces #a-a_/d wide by #b-a_/b long4 ,these are glued and chamfered4 ,a small chamfer is planed around the top edge1 as shown4 ,the small base piece on which the duck rests is made #g_/h #a #g-a_/b4 ,a hole is bored #b from one end with a #a_/b bit and the slot is sawed out4 ,the opposite end is rounded4 ,a hole is bored in the end where the slot is cut #c_/h from the end1 of a size that will take a piece of #af-penny nail tightly4 ,the nail is cut one inch long and serves as an axle for the large wheel4 ,a similar hole is bored1 #c_/h from the other end1 with a larger drill so that the nail used at this point will be smaller than the hole1 allowing the base piece to move easily upon it4 ,the large wheel is made by cutting a piece from a curtain rod #b-a_/d in diameter or by turning down a piece to this diameter on the lathe4 ,this wheel is cut #c_/h thick4 ,the four main wheels are #a-c_/d in diameter and #c_/h thick4 ,these wheels have a small hole bored exactly in their center1 of a size large enough to allow a shingle1 or a screw1 nail to turn easily within4 ,the wheels are attached two inches from the ends and the nails are driven in straight so as to insure the wheels turning evenly4 ,a screw eye is placed at the front end1 as shown1 to which is attached a string to pull it by4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ag4 ,,dippy ,,duck ,all parts should be nicely sanded before assembling and then given two coats of paint4 ,a suggested color scheme is given on the drawing4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ah4 ,,monitor 7revolving turret7 ,,the ,,monitor4 ,this design is what might be called an amphibious toy1 which means one that is at home both on the land and water4 ,the base1 or hull1 is made from a piece of #a_/b board1 #e-a_/d wide and #ad long4 ,at a point on the long edges1 #d-a_/b from the ends1 a center is taken with a compass1 or pair of dividers1 set at #e-a_/d radius1 as shown in the drawing4 ,strike all of these curves and cut to the line with a coping saw and finish smooth4 ,the main turret and the two smaller blocks are either turned on a lathe or cut from a cylindrical piece of wood4 ,if care is used the pieces can also be cut with a turning saw from a piece of wood of the required thickness4 ,the two smaller pieces are cut from a piece of #g_/h board and are #a-c_/d in diameter and are attached with #a brads and glue1 #a-c_/d from each end4 ,for the main turret1 which is to be movable1 a hole is bored in the hull exactly in the middle4 ,in boring1 a bit a little larger than the size of a #a-a_/b ,no4 #h flat-head screw is used1 in order that the screw shank will move easily4 ,this hole is countersunk on the under side4 ,a smaller hole is started on the under side of the turret to receive the screw and1 when the pieces are assembled1 the screw is not screwed up tight1 but enough play is left so that the turret will revolve fairly easily4 ,illustration3 ,the ,monitor and the ,merrimac and ,animal ,toys4 ,the two guns may be cut from #e_/h dowels1 #b-c_/h long1 or may be turned on a lathe4 ,two holes are bored1 on opposite sides of the turret1 #c_/h deep1 to receive the guns which are glued in4 ,the two pieces to which the wheels are attached are made #a_/b #c_/d #d1 and are secured in place #d from bow and stern with shingle nails and glue4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ai4 ,,merrimac ,the four wheels are cut from #a dowels1 #g_/h thick4 ,a hole is bored exactly in the middle of each wheel a little larger than the wire of a shingle nail1 which is used to hold them in place on the base4 ,a small piece of #a_/d dowel about #b-a_/d long1 is inserted in a hole1 bored with a #a_/d bit1 #c_/d from the bow4 ,this is the flagstaff1 and just in front of this is placed a small screw eye to attach the string for pulling the toy4 ,give the entire toy two coats of black paint4 ,,the ,,merrimac4 ,the ,confederate ,ironclad is a little harder to make than the ,monitor1 but it is well within the ability of a sixth grade boy4 ,the hull is made #a_/b #e-a_/d #ad1 and is sawed to a point at the bow and stern1 sloping from the center point of both ends to points #c-a_/d from either end4 ,the upper works are made from a block of wood #a-c_/d thick1 #d-a_/b wide and #g-a_/b long4 ,this is beveled so that the top is #c-a_/d #f-a_/d4 ,the two smokestacks are made from pieces of #c_/d dowel1 cut #c-a_/d long and inserted in holes bored #a_/b deep1 #a from the sides of the upper deck and #c-a_/h from the ends4 ,these are held in place with glue4 ,the flagstaff is cut from a piece of #a_/d dowel1 #b-c_/h long1 inserted in a hole1 bored with a #a_/d bit1 #c_/d from the bow4 ,just in front of this1 #a_/d from the end1 is placed a small screw-eye to which a string may be attached4 ,the ten guns are made from #a_/b dowels1 cut #a long1 and at an angle so that the lower side is #g_/h long4 ,this is so that they will fit against the sloping sides of the turret4 ,a hole is bored from end to end of each gun1 in their centers1 so that a #a-a_/b finish nail will fit in nicely4 ,the guns are held in place with these nails and with glue at the points indicated on the drawing4 ,the upper works and hull are held together with #a brads and glue1 in such a manner that the gun turret is equally distant from the ends and sides of the hull4 ,the pieces which hold the wheels are made #a_/b #c_/d #d and are nailed and glued in place1 #c-a_/b from bow and stern4 ,the wheels are #c_/h thick1 cut from #a dowels1 and are held by shingle nails driven into the axle in such a way that they will turn freely4 ,the holes for the nails1 in the wheels1 are bored exactly in their centers with a bit a little larger than the nail to be used4 ,after sanding and assembling give the boat two coats of black or battle ship gray paint4 ,illustration3 ,plate #bj4 ,,child',s ,,snow ,,shovel ,,child',s ,,snow ,,shovel4 ,this problem is simple and of interest to young people during early winter4 7,plate #bj47 ,the handle may be made square in section first and then gradually rounded with a plane and then filed and sanded2 or a discarded handle from some other implement may be utilized4 ,the handle should be #bh long1 and a hole should be bored and a rivet inserted #aa-e_/h from one end4 ,this is to reinforce the handle where the saw cut comes4 ,this cut is made directly along the center of the handle and stops #aa from the end4 ,if this cut is not made exactly in the center1 the spreading1 when the grip is inserted1 will be unequal1 and the shovel will not be in balance4 ,the two ends of the shovel are rounded1 as indicated1 and the lower end is cut at an angle to fit the surface of the shovel4 ,the grip should be cut from a #a dowel and then cut to fit the angle formed by the spreading sides of the shovel4 ,this is held in place by #a-a_/d ,no4 #h round-head screws with washers1 as indicated4 ,the broad part of the shovel is cut from one piece1 if possible1 #a_/b #h #aj-a_/b1 and the front end cut an angle which is reinforced with a piece of zinc1 #c-a_/d #h1 bent over and held by rivets and washers1 as shown4 ,the brace under the handle is cut #c_/d #a-e_/h #h and then planed from an upper edge to within an inch of the opposite lower edge and secured in place with screws4 ,the handle is attached to the blade with rivets and washers1 as shown on the drawing4 ,,the ,,periscope4 ,this is an interesting problem and demonstrates a scientific principle4 ,for a periscope of the size shown in the drawing 7,plate #ba71 two pieces of looking glass must be first cut #b-a_/d #b-g_/h4 ,pieces ,a are cut #c_/h #b #d-a_/d2 pieces ,b are #c_/h #b-c_/d #d-a_/d2 pieces ,c1 #c_/h #a-g_/h #b-c_/d2 pieces ,d1 #c_/h #b #ag-a_/d2 pieces ,e1 #c_/h #b-c_/d #ah-g_/h2 and pieces ,f1 #c_/h #b-c_/d #ah-g_/h4 ,two grooves #a_/h deep1 and of a width to receive the thickness of the glass used1 should be cut at an angle of #de degrees1 where indicated on the drawing4 ,this groove is cut in pieces ,a only4 ,all pieces should be thoroughly sanded with ,no4 #a sandpaper and finished with ,no4 #j4 ,assemble1 as shown on the drawing1 using glue and #a brads4 ,the final finish may be stain or paint4 ,whatever finish is used should be of a dark color as best suited for a periscope4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ba4 ,,periscope ,illustration3 ,the ,periscope in ,use4 ,,doll',s ,,ironing ,,board4 7,size ,a47 ,this problem has proven very popular in toy-making classes and has been one of the best sellers at toy sales4 ,it folds up compactly and is strong and serviceable4 ,plates #bb1 #bc and #bd show the ironing board in three sizes for children of varying ages4 ,plate #bb is for children of about three years of age1 and the material is prepared as follows3 ,the top is first made of #a_/b lumber and is #f wide and #bj long4 ,set the dividers with a #c radius and strike an arc just touching the end and two sides of the board4 ,do the same on the other end1 using a #b-a_/b radius4 ,illustration3 ,the ,three ,types of ,ironing ,boards4 ,connect these arcs with straight lines and saw and plane carefully just to the lines all around4 ,the turning saw may be used on the ends4 ,illustration3 ,plate #bb4 ,,doll',s ,,ironing ,,board 7,size ,a7 ,slightly round the upper edge of the surface which is to be uppermost4 ,the legs are next cut to size1 the two longer ones being #a_/b #a #ai and the two shorter ones #a_/b #a #ah-c_/d4 ,one end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a #a-a_/b radius1 at the extreme end4 ,the other ends of the legs are cut off at an angle1 as shown in the drawing4 ,holes are bored in the rounded ends of the long legs1 #a_/b from the ends with a ,no4 #c bit4 ,another hole of similar size is bored #h-a_/d from the one previously bored4 ,these holes are all #a_/b from the edges4 ,on the short legs the only holes necessary are bored #h-a_/d from the rounded end4 ,the long legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is screwed to the underside of the top of the board1 as shown4 ,this cleat is #g_/h #a-a_/h #d-a_/b and is glued and held to the top by #a-a_/d flat-head screws1 two of them being sufficient4 ,these are countersunk4 ,the separating piece at the other end of the long legs is #a_/b #a #d-i_/af and is held in place by #a-a_/d brads and glue4 ,it is attached #b from the ends4 ,two separating pieces are next made for the short legs1 #a_/b #a #c-a_/b1 and these are attached in the same manner as the piece between the long legs4 ,a cleat #g_/h #a #c-g_/af is attached with glue and #a-a_/b flat-head screws1 #b from the small end of the board4 ,this holds the short legs in position4 ,all pieces should be thoroughly sanded with ,no4 #a_/b sandpaper before being assembled4 ,no further finish is necessary4 ,,doll',s ,,ironing ,,board4 7,size ,b47 ,the method of constructing this board is identical with the method suggested for board ,a4 ,the difference is in the size of the pieces4 7,plate #bc47 ,this type of ironing board is suitable for a child from four to six years of age4 ,the top is #e_/h thick1 #g-c_/d wide and #bd-a_/b long4 ,the curved ends are struck with the dividers in the same way as in the preceding problem4 ,the legs are next cut to dimension1 the longer ones being #i_/af #a-a_/h #bd1 and the shorter #i_/af #a-a_/h #bb-a_/b4 ,one end of each leg is rounded by setting the dividers at #i_/af and cutting to the line and cutting the opposite ends at an angle1 as shown in the drawing4 ,bore holes with a ,no4 #c bit in the rounded ends of the long legs1 #e_/h from the ends and a similar hole is bored #i-a_/b from the hole previously bored4 ,these holes are all #i_/af in from the edges4 ,illustration3 ,plate #bc4 ,,doll',s ,,ironing ,,board 7,size ,b7 ,on the short legs the only holes bored are made with the same bit1 #i-c_/h from the rounded ends4 ,the long legs are attached to a cleat by #a-a_/b ,no4 #aj round-head blue screws1 with washers under both the heads of the screws and between the screws and the cleat4 ,the cleat is #g_/h #a-a_/h #e-g_/h and is glued and screwed to the under side of the top with #a-a_/b ,no4 #h flat-head screws4 ,these are countersunk4 ,the separating piece at the other end of the long legs is #c_/h #a-a_/h #e-ae_/af and is held in place by #a-a_/d brads and glue1 and is attached #c from the end4 ,two separating pieces are next made for the short legs1 #c_/h #a-a_/h #d-a_/b1 and these are attached in the same way as the piece between the longer legs4 ,a cleat #g_/h #a-a_/d #d-g_/af is attached with glue and #a-c_/d flat-head screws1 #d from the small end of the board4 ,this holds the short legs in position4 ,refer to the detail on the drawing of the size ,a ironing board 7,plate #bb7 for the method of making the button which holds the board rigid4 ,all pieces should be thoroughly sanded with ,no4 #a_/b sandpaper before being assembled4 ,no further finish is necessary4 ,,doll',s ,,ironing ,,board4 7,size ,c47 ,the method of constructing this size board is similar to the other two types4 7,plate #bd47 ,this size board is suitable for children from six to eight years of age4 ,the top is made #c_/d thick1 #i wide and #cj long4 ,the dividers are set with a #d-a_/b radius and an arc is struck to touch the end and two sides of the board4 ,a similar arc is struck at the opposite end with a #c-a_/b radius4 ,these arcs are connected with a straight line1 and the outline is cut with a saw and finally planed to the lines4 ,the curved ends can be cut with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file4 ,the upper edges are slightly rounded with a file and sandpaper4 ,the legs are next cut to size1 two being #c_/d #a-a_/d #bg-g_/h1 and the other two #c_/d #a-a_/d #bi4 ,one end of each is rounded by striking an arc with a #e_/h radius1 at the extreme end4 ,the other ends of the legs are cut at an angle1 as shown in the drawing4 ,holes are bored in the rounded end of the short legs1 #e_/h from the ends1 of a size that will take a #a-c_/d ,no4 #aj round-head blue screw4 ,illustration3 ,plate #bd4 ,,doll',s ,,ironing ,,board 7,size ,c7 ,another hole of similar size is bored #aa from this4 ,these holes are all #e_/h from the edges4 ,on the other two legs the only two holes necessary are bored #ab-a_/b from the rounded ends4 ,the shorter legs are attached by screws to a cleat which itself is screwed to the underside of the board1 #d-a_/b from the large end4 ,this cleat is #a #a-a_/d #f-c_/d and is held in place with glue and #a-c_/d flat-head screws1 countersunk4 ,two of these screws are sufficient4 ,the separating piece at the other end of the legs is #c_/d #a-a_/d #f-ac_/af1 and is held in place by #a-a_/b brads and glue1 and is attached #c-a_/b from the ends4 ,two separating pieces are next made for the long legs1 #c_/d #a-a_/d #e-a_/d1 and these are attached in the same manner as the pieces between the other set of legs4 ,a cleat #a-a_/h #a-c_/h #e-c_/af is attached with glue and #b flat-head screws1 #e-a_/b from the small end of the board4 ,this holds the short legs in position4 ,the wood button1 shown on the drawing for the ,size ,a ironing board 7,plate #bb71 is attached to this cleat and prevents the board from collapsing4 ,all pieces should be thoroughly sandpapered with ,no4 #a_/b sandpaper before being assembled4 ,no further finish is necessary4 ,,doll',s ,,clothes ,,rack4 ,this folding clothes rack is an interesting toy and requires some skill in assembling4 7,plate #be47 ,illustration3 ,playing ,house is real fun with such a dolls' clothes rack1 ironing board1 wash bench1 table and stepladder4 ,the four legs are cut #c_/h #c_/d #ac and each end is rounded by first striking semicircles on the ends1 using a #c_/h radius1 and then finishing with a chisel carefully to the line4 ,holes are bored in these legs with a #a_/d bit in the following places3 #c_/h from the top1 #d-g_/h beyond this1 #c-a_/d beyond this1 and #a-c_/d beyond this4 ,extreme care must be taken not to split the wood4 ,bore through from one side until the spur of the bit just starts to come through1 then remove the bit and bore back from the other side4 ,illustration3 ,plate #be4 ,,doll',s ,,clothes ,,rack ,next cut the four top pieces to size1 two being #c_/h #c_/d #f and two #c_/h #c_/d #g4 ,these are also rounded on both ends4 ,holes are bored #c_/h from each end of all of these and also half way between their ends1 as shown in ,plate #be4 ,these pieces should be carefully sanded with ,no4 #a sandpaper4 ,the cross pieces are cut from #a_/d dowels as follows3 ,four pieces1 #h-c_/d long2 six pieces1 #h long2 and one piece1 #g-a_/d long4 ,the long dowel sticks are the ones that go at points a1 b1 c and d1 ,plate #be1 on the outside legs4 ,the #h dowels go at points e1 f1 g1 h1 i1 and j4 ,the single short dowel goes at point k4 ,examine the drawing carefully and see that the four top pieces are placed on the correct dowels4 ,hold all dowels1 which are not at movable points1 with #c_/d brads4 ,be sure every piece is in its proper position before driving in the brads and then be positive that no brad is being driven at a point where the dowel must be free to move in the hole4 ,it is always best to assemble the rack completely and by closing and opening it learn clearly just where the brads are to be placed4 ,no further finish is necessary4 ,,child',s ,,wash ,,bench4 ,this bench may be made in various sizes to fit different heights of children4 ,the top consists of three slats and for the size bench shown in ,plate #bf1 the slats are made #c_/h #a-c_/d #ah4 ,these slats have screw holes bored #b-c_/h from the ends and #c_/h from the edges1 as shown4 ,these are countersunk to receive #a ,no4 #f flat-head screws4 ,two braces are made #c_/d #a_/d #h4 ,these are to support the slats4 ,one inch from one end of these braces1 and #e_/h from the edges1 a hole is bored with a #c_/h bit4 ,the same distance from the other end a similar hole is bored and a piece is sawed out1 as shown in the drawing1 to receive and support the dowel rod4 ,the legs of the bench are cut #c_/h #a #ab-c_/d4 ,one-half inch from one end a hole is bored with a #c_/h bit4 ,one and one-half inches from the other end a similar hole is bored and #g from the same end the third hole is bored1 making three in each leg4 ,care must be taken in boring these holes not to split the work as the bit goes through4 ,bore through on one side until the spur of the bit just starts through on the opposite side4 ,remove the bit and place the spur point in the small hole made by the spur and bore back in the opposite direction4 ,illustration3 ,plate #bf4 ,,child',s ,,wash ,,bench ,the two cross slats forming the braces are #c_/h #c_/d #ac4 ,a center lap joint is made by cutting through half way on both slats at such an angle as will cause the outer edge of the slats to be about five inches apart4 ,the ends of the slats should be sawed at such an angle as will make them flush with the sides of the legs and small holes drilled and countersunk so that they may be attached with #c_/d ,no4 #d flat-head screws4 ,two #c_/h dowel rods should next be cut1 one being #ab-a_/b long and the other #ad long4 ,these dowels should be held in place in the legs by #c_/d brads1 care being taken not to nail where there is to be a moving joint4 ,all pieces should be carefully sanded with ,no4 #a_/b sandpaper4 ,no other finish is necessary4 ,,child',s ,,step ,,ladder4 ,this step ladder may be made in various sizes1 the one shown here being suitable for children up to seven or eight years of age4 7,plate #bg47 ,the two front legs should be cut first1 #e_/h #b-a_/d #ba4 ,it will be noticed that the two ends are cut off at an angle4 ,this angle is obtained by measuring back on one side #a and drawing to this point from the opposite corner4 ,make all of these angles equal and if possible cut them in a miter-box4 ,the two rear legs1 or braces1 are cut #e_/h #a-a_/h #ag-c_/d1 and the two ends are rounded4 ,the semicircle is marked out by setting the dividers1 or a compass1 at a #i_/af radius and striking the curve tangent to the sides and ends of the legs4 ,two holes are bored with a ,no4 #h bit1 #e_/af from one end of the rear legs and #a-a_/d from the other end1 as indicated1 care being taken not to split the wood4 ,the top step is next made #e_/h #e-a_/d #i-c_/d1 and the top edges slightly rounded4 ,two holes are bored with a small drill1 #a-a_/b from the ends of this step and #a from the rear and front edges of both ends4 ,these should be countersunk4 ,later1 when assembled1 this top is screwed to the braces with #a ,no4 #f flat-head screws1 as shown in the front view4 7,plate #bg47 ,two braces are next made #e_/h #b #e-a_/d1 and are cut off at either end at the same angle as were the ends of the front legs4 ,these are attached to the inside of the legs1 at the top1 as shown in the side view1 with four #a ,no4 #f flat-head screws and glue4 ,care should be taken to get them just even with the front and top sides of the legs4 ,before the braces are attached a hole should be bored with a ,no4 #h bit #e_/h from the top edge and #a from the left-hand edge to receive the dowel stick on which the rear leg swings4 ,illustration3 ,plate #bg4 ,,child',s ,,step ,,ladder ,while boring this hole the end should be held with a clamp to prevent splitting4 ,the two lower steps are next made4 ,these are #e_/h thick and are cut #c wide4 ,the width is greater than is needed1 and is provided that the steps may be planed even with the edges of the legs later4 ,the steps are cut #h in length4 ,the next operation is cutting grooves for the steps to set into the legs1 and this requires considerable care4 ,the lower step is #e-c_/d from the lower end of the legs4 ,this dimension is measured off on each leg1 and a line is drawn parallel with the lower end of the leg4 ,this may be done by either using a ,t bevel1 set at the angle of the lower end of the legs1 or the dimension1 #e-c_/d1 may be measured up on both sides of the leg and a line drawn across4 ,next take the lower step and mark one end ,a and the other end ,b4 ,place the end ,a1 of the lower step1 evenly on this line and make a mark above the first line a little less than the thickness of the step4 ,the groove is marked a little less than the thickness of the step so that1 in case the saw cut is made a little wide1 the step will not be likely to fit loosely4 ,square lines across both edges of the edge from the end of the lines previously drawn and measure down from the surface a distance of #a_/d on the edges4 ,draw a line through this point parallel to the edge of the leg4 ,next saw carefully on the lines1 first drawn1 down as far as this last line and cut the wood out with a half-inch chisel4 ,if the step will not fit in the slot1 plane a very slight amount from the surface of the step until it fits snugly into the groove4 ,end ,b is fitted to the opposite leg in a similar way and the second step is placed in a like manner1 #f-g_/h above the lower step4 ,if the drawing is examined1 as these directions for placing the steps are read1 the explanation will be greatly simplified4 ,the two narrow cross braces are next made1 #c_/h #e_/h #ae-a_/b4 ,these are crossed at their middle point in a middle-lap joint1 a groove being cut half through each piece wide enough to insure a tight joint4 ,these braces are attached to the rear legs1 #b-a_/b from their lower ends1 with #c_/d ,no4 #f flat-head screws1 the holes being previously bored and countersunk4 ,cut the ends of the braces even with the ends of the legs4 ,holes are bored with a small bit in the grooves in the legs1 #a_/b in from the sides1 as shown4 ,these holes are for the round-head screws which hold the steps in place4 ,the steps are held in the grooves of the legs with glue and #a ,no4 #f round-head blue screws4 ,illustration3 ,plate #bh4 ,,doll',s ,,table ,,with ,,drawer ,the dowel sticks are now cut #h-c_/d long from a #a_/b dowel and1 after all pieces of wood are carefully sanded with ,no4 #a sandpaper1 the step ladder is assembled4 ,a #c_/d brad should be driven into the edge of the rear legs so that it will penetrate and hold the dowel in place4 ,a piece of small chain should be fastened to each front and rear leg1 as shown1 of a length sufficient to have the front legs of the ladder set flat on the ground4 ,also take care that the two chains are even with each other and parallel with the ground4 ,no further finish is required4 ,,doll',s ,,table ,,with ,,drawer4 ,while this table may be made in various sizes1 the one shown in the accompanying drawing has proven very popular4 ,the four legs are first made #g_/h #a-a_/d #ab4 ,measure down #c from one end and taper the legs equally from this point to a width of #g_/h at the opposite ends1 as shown4 ,the two side rails are made #a_/b #b-g_/h #f-a_/b4 ,the two front rails above and below the drawer are cut #a_/b #a_/b #ab4 ,on the side and rear rails1 centers for dowels are located #e_/h from the top and lower edges and half way between the sides4 ,an inch brad is driven in a short distance at these points1 and the head is cut off about #a_/d above the surface of the wood4 ,these ends are now placed so that their upper edges are even with the top of the legs4 ,press down lightly on the rails and a mark will be made on the surface of the legs4 ,remove the brads and bore the dowel hole with a #a_/d bit1 #a-a_/d deep4 ,the two drawer rails are treated in the same manner and the holes are bored4 ,the top will no doubt have to be made of two pieces of wood jointed and glued together1 and reinforced with dowels4 ,the finished dimensions are #c_/h #ab #ai4 ,short blocks of wood are screwed to the rear and two side rails even with their tops1 and screws are later put through these from their under side to hold the top in place4 ,a #c_/d ,no4 #f screw is placed in the center of the upper drawer rail to assist in holding the top in place4 7,see ,plate #bh for details of the method of attaching the top47 ,two strips of wood #a_/b wide1 and thick and long enough to fit tightly between the front and rear rails1 are made to serve as drawer slides4 ,similar strips of wood are glued to the inner part of the end rails to cause the drawer to run evenly4 ,these strips are just thick enough to bring their surface even with the edge of the leg4 ,all rails should be thoroughly sanded and then assembled with glue1 screws1 and brads as directed1 the rails and legs being clamped for several hours to insure a tight fit4 ,if the various parts of the table have been accurately made1 the drawer should be now constructed to the dimensions called for in the drawing4 ,if there has been any error in the making of the several pieces1 of course the drawer must be made to fit the space in that individual table4 ,the drawer front is #c_/h #a-g_/h #ab4 ,the sides are #a_/d #a-g_/h #aa-a_/b4 ,these dimensions may all have to be trimmed down somewhat to secure an easy sliding fit4 ,the drawer construction is clearly shown in the sketch4 ,bottom pieces of #a_/d wood are cut to fit1 and after sanding1 all pieces are glued and bradded together4 ,handles of the size shown in the drawing may be turned on the lathe or made by hand1 and placed as indicated4 ,as this type of table is patterned after the ordinary kitchen table it may be left unfinished4 ,,colonial ,,doll',s ,,table4 ,this table1 with the accompanying chairs shown in ,plate #cj1 makes a very artistic and interesting problem in toy-making4 ,the table and chairs work up very nicely if made of oak and stained a mission brown4 ,they may also be made of soft wood and stained or painted4 ,directions for staining may be found in the front part of the book4 ,the top 7,plate #bi7 is made #c_/h #aa #af and1 if a piece of wood #aa wide is not obtainable1 two narrow pieces will have to be joined4 7,see method of joining wood on page #ah47 ,the four uprights are made #a #a #f-a_/d1 and the four cross pieces #e_/h #a #h4 ,the ends of the cross pieces are cut at a bevel1 as shown1 and notches are cut #a-a_/h from each end1 #a_/h deep1 to receive the ends of the upright4 ,care must be taken to get a snug fit4 ,it is better to have the notches a trifle too small than too large4 ,if cut a little small1 the uprights are easily made to fit the grooves by planing a slight amount from their edges4 ,four bottom pieces are made #a_/d #a-a_/d #a-a_/d1 to be attached to the lower cross piece1 as shown1 allowing #a_/h projection all around4 ,they are fastened with #a_/b brads and glue4 ,when attaching1 see that the grain of the little square pieces runs the same as the cross pieces4 ,on account of the thinness of the wood1 holes may have to be bored for the brads4 ,if no small drill is at hand a brad may be used as a drill4 ,illustration3 ,plate #bi4 ,,colonial ,,doll',s ,,table ,holes are bored in the two upper cross pieces1 #c_/d from their ends4 ,these are countersunk to receive #c_/d ,no4#f flat-head screws1 when assembling1 and are to hold the top in place4 ,holes are likewise bored for the same size screws1 #a-e_/h from each end of the four cross pieces1 which brings the holes in the center of each notch4 ,these holes are also countersunk4 ,the long lower brace is made #e_/af #b-a_/b #ab4 ,when assembling1 this piece is located as shown in the drawing and is held in place with glue and #a_/b brads4 ,sand all pieces carefully with ,no4#a sandpaper first and finish with ,no4 #j4 ,if stain is to be used1 it may be found easier to stain the pieces before assembling4 ,assemble as previously described1 using glue where necessary and turning all screws up tightly4 ,apply final finish as desired4 ,,colonial ,,doll',s ,,chair4 ,this chair goes with the ,colonial ,table shown in the preceding drawing 7,plate #bi71 and at least two chairs should be made to form the set4 ,the sides are first cut from #c_/h material1 #e wide and #aa-a_/b long4 ,a freehand curve1 following the general design of the one shown1 should be traced on a piece of paper1 cut to the above size4 ,after the outline is satisfactory1 the design should be traced on the wood preparatory to cutting out4 ,the cutting should be done with a coping saw1 cutting to the line for a finish4 ,place the two sides together to see if they match4 ,variations should be trimmed down so that the pieces are exact duplicates4 ,the back is next made1 #c_/h #e-a_/h #aj-c_/d4 ,the seat is made #c_/h #d-a_/b #e-a_/h1 and the front board of the seat measures #c_/h #c-a_/b #e-a_/h4 ,the seat is rounded on the front edge1 and the front board of seat is beveled at top and bottom to set snugly under the seat1 at the slight angle shown4 ,this angle is obtained by measuring in #a-c_/h from the front1 as shown in the side view4 ,sandpaper all pieces thoroughly and assemble the sides and back first1 with glue and #c_/d brads4 ,set these brads below the surface and fill the cavity with hard beeswax4 ,assemble the seat and front board next1 and then nail these between the sides of the chair1 as shown in the drawing4 ,finish as desired4 ,see ,pages #ae to #ah for method of staining and painting4 ,illustration3 ,plate #cj4 ,,colonial ,,doll',s ,,chair ,,ring-,,the-,,hook ,,game4 ,this game is very simple in construction yet affords a great deal of pleasure to young people4 7,plate #ca47 ,the desired outline1 the dimensions for which are given in the drawing1 is sketched on a piece of folded paper1 as is shown by the sketch1 and the design is then cut out and traced on a piece of wood cut from stock #e_/h #aa #ab4 ,the cutting should be roughly done with a turning saw and finished carefully to the line with a chisel and file4 ,a small chamfer gives a finished appearance if placed on the front edge4 ,the board should be thoroughly sanded with ,no4 #a sandpaper first1 and then finished with ,no4 #j4 ,the final finish may be several coats of shellac or two coats of a bright lively color of paint4 ,if a shellac finish is used1 the numbers should be lettered in with water-proof ,india ink1 after the first coat of shellac is dry1 and the second coat should be applied over this4 ,if paint is the finish selected1 the numbers may be put on with the ink after the final coat is dry4 ,hooks are located at the various points shown on the drawing1 and pains should be taken to get them in perpendicular to the surface of the board4 ,place a screw-hook at the top to hang up by4 ,the rings used are the ordinary preserve jar rings and ten should constitute a set4 ,the board should be placed on the wall1 about five feet from the floor and the contestants should stand about six feet from it4 ,the idea is to toss the rings in such a manner that they will land over the hooks4 ,the best results are obtained by holding the ring between the thumb and the first two fingers1 at right angles to the floor4 ,throw in such a way that the ring will strike flat against the board4 ,with a little practice considerable accuracy can be developed in placing the rings4 ,a score of one hundred should constitute a game4 ,,five ,,post ,,ring ,,toss4 ,although the game of ring toss is an old one1 yet it never loses its attraction for many young people1 and older ones as well4 ,the type of ring toss shown in the accompanying plate is a little variety from the regular form1 each post being painted and numbered with the points scored by ringing that particular post4 7,plate #cb47 ,the middle post1 painted black1 is a minus score1 the ring falling on this causing a loss of five points4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ca4 ,,ring ,,the ,,hook ,,game ,the rings1 five in number1 are painted at their joining points with colors similar to the posts4 ,if a ring falls over a post of the same color as that painted on the ring the score is doubled4 ,a black ring on the black post doubles the loss4 ,the board should be set on the floor about eight feet from the contestants4 ,the best results can be obtained by holding the rings by the thick1 heavy part1 parallel to the floor1 and tossing quite high in order that they may fall flat from a point above the posts4 ,illustration3 ,the ,ring ,toss4 ,the posts are made with a tenon1 which fits snugly in a mortise1 and are removable so that they may be taken out when not in use4 ,the rings may be made of various materials1 such as rope and rattan4 ,a very satisfactory ring is made by the writer's classes1 by using chair spline4 ,this is a rattan1 light1 cheap and easily bent1 and may be bought of any firm dealing in upholstery and chair-seating materials4 ,a piece about #ag long is bent in circular form1 overlapping about an inch and held with two #a_/b brads1 cleated on the underside1 as shown4 ,wrap with white friction tape4 ,the base of the ring toss is first cut #g_/h #ae #bj4 ,the center of each side and end is located and these points are connected1 forming a diamond shape4 ,cut to this line and plane the edges smooth4 ,plane a #a_/h chamfer around the upper edge4 ,post ,a is made #a #a #aa-c_/d2 posts ,b and ,c are #a #a #h-a_/d2 post ,d1 #a #a #e-a_/d2 and post ,e1 #a #a #f-c_/d4 ,all of these posts are chamfered about #a_/h at the top4 ,it will be noticed1 by referring to the drawing of the side view1 that each post is an inch square for a certain distance up and from that point they taper to #a_/b square at the top4 ,these measurements are figured from the shoulder where they rest upon the board1 there being a #a_/b tenon below4 ,these tenons are cut so that they will be #a_/b square and #c_/d long4 ,all holes or mortises are located #a-a_/b directly in from the corner or point at which they rest1 except the center post1 which is at the center point of the board4 ,these mortises should be a fairly tight fit1 yet allowing for the removal of the uprights when not in use4 ,illustration3 ,plate #cb4 ,,five ,,post ,,ring-,,toss ,the color scheme is suggested on the drawing but may be changed to suit the individual taste4 ,after painting or shellacking the board the first coat1 the numbers should be lettered in1 using waterproof ,india ink1 and then the second coat applied4 ,,bean ,,bag ,,game4 ,this is another very popular and interesting game and gives the girls in the domestic science course a little opportunity to show their skill in making the bags4 ,these should be cut so that they will finish about four inches square and one end left open so that they may be filled about three-fourths full of beans1 peas or small pebbles4 ,the end is then sewed up4 ,burlap1 ticking or any odd pieces of cloth may be used for the bags4 ,the board itself will1 no doubt1 have to be glued up from two or more boards in order to have the finished size #bj wide by #bd long4 7,plate #cc47 ,half inch bass or whitewood is suitable4 ,a piece of paper should be cut #bj #bd and folded so that it is #ab #bj4 ,trace the outline on this paper1 cut and unfold and lay on the board and trace around this4 ,cut to the line1 using a turning saw and chisel and perhaps a wood file on the curves4 ,illustration3 ,boys as well as ,girls enjoy the ,bean ,bag ,game4 ,the openings are located1 as shown by the drawing4 ,the centers are first obtained1 and then the widths and lengths are measured from these center lines4 ,holes are next bored1 as shown by the small sketch1 with a #c_/d bit1 and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out the pieces4 ,if a turning saw is used1 the blade must first be unfastened at one end1 inserted in the hole and re tightened on the opposite side4 ,finish carefully to the line with chisel and file4 ,illustration3 ,plate #cc4 ,,bean ,,bag ,,game ,a small block #a_/b #a-a_/b #b-a_/h is attached to the back of the board with #c_/d ,no4 #f flat-head screws4 ,this is to hold the hinge4 ,the long brace is made #a_/b #b-a_/h #ah-a_/b and is held to the small block by the hinge spoken of previously4 ,a screw-eye is placed about #b from the lower end of this brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this to similar screw-eyes1 placed on the back of the main board about #b from the bottom edge and #c from the side edges4 ,the cord or wire should be of sufficient length to cause the board to tip at about #fj degrees4 ,after the board has been carefully sanded with ,no4 #a sandpaper first and then finished with ,no4 #j1 the whole board should receive a coat of white shellac4 ,after allowing this to dry over night1 it should be rubbed down lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers #b1 #c and #e lettered on with black waterproof ,india ink4 ,apply another coat of shellac1 or two more if necessary4 ,paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish1 in which case the numbers should be put on with paint of a contrasting color to show up well4 ,the little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces made the same as those on the ,dart ,game ,board4 ,while this is a little more difficult than the simple screw-eye and wire arrangement1 it is much more satisfactory4 ,,dart ,,board ,,game4 ,this game has proven very popular1 not only with the young folks1 but with the grown-ups as well4 ,any game where skill and accuracy may be developed has a strong appeal to both boys and girls as well4 ,the board illustrated in ,plate #cd1 should be made of soft wood--bass1 pine or white wood is suitable--and cut to #ae wide by #ba-a_/b long1 from #g_/h material4 ,the top edge is chamfered #a_/d4 ,the surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded and given a coat of white shellac4 ,while this is drying1 the rear supporting braces may be gotten out4 ,the main support is #g_/h #b-a_/h #ai4 ,a hole is bored with a ,no4 #aj bit1 #a-i_/af from the end1 and a piece is sawed out #e_/h wide from the opposite end to this hole4 ,see the drawing for detail4 ,a piece of #a_/d dowel is glued in the end to reinforce the piece1 as shown4 ,the smaller piece ,y is cut #g_/h #c_/h #ag and is held to piece ,x by a quarter-inch dowel1 as shown4 ,a brass cup hook is screwed into the end which is connected with a brass screw-eye placed in the back of the board1 #b-a_/d from the bottom edge4 ,illustration3 ,the ,dart ,board in ,use4 ,the small block ,x is #g_/h #a-a_/b #b-a_/h and is attached1 as indicated1 with glue and two #a-a_/d ,no4 #h flat-head screws4 ,the long brace ,x is attached to this by a #b butt hinge and #a flat-head screws4 ,this folding arrangement has proven very satisfactory4 ,the board packs nicely and stands rigidly when in position for playing4 ,however1 a simpler bracing may be used4 ,the long brace ,x may be a solid piece #g_/h #b-a_/h #ai1 with a screw-eye on the underside from which a wire can run to a similar screw-eye on the back of the board4 ,the wire can be adjusted so that the board will slope at the proper angle4 ,after being sanded1 the surface of the board should be given a coat of shellac and after drying should be rubbed down with ,no4 #a_/b sandpaper4 ,the circles should now be struck with a compass and waterproof ink1 the diameters given1 using a fairly heavy line4 ,after the ink is dry give another coat of shellac4 ,when this is dry the board is ready to have the colors applied to the circles4 ,first paint circle ,a black and circle ,c red1 painting just to the circle edge4 ,allow this to dry thoroughly1 and then paint circle ,b yellow and circle ,d green4 ,when these are dry1 it may be necessary to strike all the circles again with ink4 ,where shown1 letter in the numbers to score the game4 ,it will be noticed that the small outside circles are minus numbers4 ,give the entire board and braces a finishing coat of shellac4 ,darts4 ,the darts may be whittled out by hand1 but the most satisfactory ones are turned out on the lathe to the dimensions shown4 ,a #a-a_/b brad should be driven half its length into the rounded end1 the head cut off with cutting pliers1 and the end pointed with a fine file4 ,illustration3 ,plate #cd4 ,,dart ,,game ,,board ,at the opposite end two holes should be drilled of a size large enough to receive the ends of wing or tail feathers of some accommodating fowl4 ,these should be dipped in glue and pressed into place4 ,about six of these darts should be made and the wooden parts painted in bright colors4 ,birch or maple are good woods to use4 ,the board should be placed on the floor1 about ten feet from a given station point1 and each contestant should be allowed to throw the six darts4 ,the score should then be counted4 ,darts landing on a line should be credited to the lower number4 ,one dart landing on and sticking to another1 doubles the score of the first dart4 ,darts not sticking in the board are not allowed to be re-thrown4 ,darts knocked out by other darts lose their score4 ,one thousand points should constitute a game4 ,the points of the darts may be sharpened from time to time with a fine file4 ,,wind ,,mill4 ,this is an interesting toy to place on the top of the shed or garage where the wind will have a chance to revolve the brightly colored wheel at a good rate4 ,it also serves as a weather vane4 ,illustration3 ,three ,kinds of ,wind ,mills and the ,sand or ,water ,mill4 ,the main part of the mill 7,plate #ce7 is made up of four pieces of half inch stock1 two being #c-a_/b #d-c_/d and two #b-a_/b #d-c_/d4 ,the two larger sides taper to #b-a_/b wide at the top and the two smaller pieces to #a_/b4 ,the top piece forming the roof is made from a piece of wood #a-c_/d thick4 ,if wood of this thickness is not available1 several thinner pieces must be glued together4 ,it is cut #c-a_/b #c-a_/b and a line is drawn around the edge #c_/h from the lower sides4 ,from this line the roof tapers to a point directly over the middle of the piece1 as shown4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ce4 ,,wind ,,mill ,the long support1 on which the mill rests1 is made #a_/b #a-a_/d #aj-a_/d4 ,two holes are bored and countersunk for the screws which hold it to the mill base4 ,a similar hole is bored from the opposite end for the screw which holds in place the round piece ,a4 ,the circular piece marked ,a on the side view1 is made #c_/h #b-a_/b4 ,a hole is bored #a_/b deep with a quarter inch bit on the edge4 ,the piece ,c is a quarter inch dowel1 #g-c_/d long4 ,a hole is bored with a quarter inch bit in the roof1 at a slant1 as is shown in the side view4 ,this hole is #c_/h deep4 ,the dowel piece ,c fits in these holes when assembled1 being held with glue4 ,the smaller base piece1 which is attached to the bottom of the mill with glue and #a brads1 is made #a_/b #d #e4 ,the small piece1 on which the vanes of the mill turn1 is made from a piece of half inch dowel1 cut #a-a_/b long4 ,a hole is bored in the roof piece #a_/b deep to receive this4 ,a smaller hole is drilled in the outer end of this dowel to receive a #a-a_/b ,no4 #h round-head screw on which the vanes revolve4 ,a piece is now cut #c_/d #g_/h #g to serve as the supporting piece on which the whole mill turns4 ,on one end a notch is cut1 as shown in the drawing1 #c_/h deep and #a-a_/b long4 ,two screw holes are bored in this notch to allow the piece to be attached to the shed or roof4 ,on the opposite end a hole is bored in the center1 #c_/d deep and with a drill that will insure a #af-penny nail fitting very tightly4 ,one of these nails should be driven in and the headed end cut off so as to allow a projection of #a beyond the end of the wood4 ,the end of this nail should be filed smooth and round4 ,a hole is bored to receive this in the base pieces1 as shown in the drawing1 extending through both pieces and large enough for the nail to turn freely within4 ,a washer should be placed over this to insure the mill turning easily4 ,the two pieces for the vane of the mill are made #c_/d #a #e-a_/b4 ,each vane is chiseled at an angle1 sloping in one direction at one end and in the opposite direction at the other1 allowing at least #a_/h for the thickness4 ,considerable pains should be used in shaping these vanes to insure even balance4 ,file and sand these smooth4 ,a middle lap joint is made exactly in the center of each vane1 cutting half through on each piece and making a smooth1 flush fit4 ,hold the vanes together with glue and #a_/b brads at this point and carefully bore a hole at the center large enough to allow a #a-a_/b ,no4 #h round-head screw to turn easily4 ,a small washer is placed under the head of the screw and one between the rear of the vanes and the end of the supporting dowel4 ,turn the screw up tight enough to allow the vanes to clear nicely4 ,all pieces should be carefully sanded with ,no4 #a sandpaper first and finished with ,no4 #j4 ,paint all pieces before assembling4 ,a suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing4 ,,wind ,,mill4 7,type ,b47 ,this is another interesting action toy and makes a very pleasing addition to the top of a garage or barn4 7,plate #cf47 ,children also enjoy toys of this sort at the beaches where they can build up little villages in the sand4 ,the four long uprights are made #a_/b #a_/b #ai4 ,the top piece1 which is eight sided1 is first made #a_/b #c-a_/d #c-a_/d4 ,then #c_/d is measured in from each corner and these points are connected and the lines cut carefully with a saw4 ,a hole is bored in the center with a bit a little smaller than a #a-c_/d ,no4 #h screw4 ,the piece to which the long uprights are attached is next made1 #a_/b #b-a_/d #b-a_/d4 ,measure in from each corner1 on the upper surface1 #e_/h1 and from each corner on the lower edge measure in #a_/b4 ,draw these sloping lines from top to bottom points and saw these corner pieces out very carefully4 ,a hole is bored in the center of this piece similar to the hole bored in the previous piece4 ,attach the long uprights to this piece with glue and #a-a_/d brads1 trimming the top ends of the uprights with a chisel and file until they are flush with the surface of the top piece4 ,carefully spread the uprights until they are #i-a_/b apart from outside to outside1 as shown4 ,mark off points on the inside edges #d up from the bottom ends and #g-a_/d above the first marks4 ,these points are to locate the places where the cross pieces go4 ,cut the eight cross braces #a_/b #a_/b and sufficiently long to fit nicely at these points between the uprights4 ,it will be noticed that they will have to be cut at a slight angle4 ,attach these braces with glue and #a-a_/d brads1 seeing that they are all even and parallel with the floor when setting upright4 ,the angle braces are made #a_/b #a_/b #aa and cross each other with a halved joint1 as shown4 ,the ends are cut at an angle to conform to the slope of the uprights and are attached to them by #a brads and glue4 ,piece ,e is now made1 #a-a_/d #a-a_/d #b1 and is tapered to #c_/d square at the upper end4 ,this is done by measuring in #a_/d from each upper corner and drawing to the lower corners and cutting to the line4 ,a small hole is bored in the center of the upper end to start the screw which holds piece ,b in place4 ,illustration3 ,plate #cf4 ,,wind ,,mill 7type ,b7 ,piece ,b is made #c_/d #c_/d #e-a_/b and has a slot cut in it1 #a_/d wide and #b-c_/h long1 as shown4 ,the inside end of the slot is cut at a slight angle to receive the slope of tailpiece ,c4 ,a hole is bored #c-a_/d from the slot end of this piece1 of a size to turn freely on a #a-a_/b ,no4 #h round-head screw4 ,tail ,c is made #a_/d #d #f and then #a_/b is measured up from the lower right end corner and #a_/b measured in from this point toward the left and a dot is placed4 ,draw lines from this dot to the lower-left-hand corner and to the upper-right-hand corner4 ,round all of these corners1 using a #a_/b radius and carefully finish to the lines all around4 ,the vanes ,a must be very carefully made to insure a close fit and proper balance4 ,two pieces are cut #g_/h #a-a_/d #g4 ,the method of forming the vanes will be more easily understood by referring to the detail1 where every measurement is plainly given4 ,the two vanes are joined with a middle lap joint1 which requires considerable skill in forming4 ,each piece is cut half way through at its middle point1 seeing that the groove is no wider than the width of the piece that goes within it4 ,the two vanes are joined with glue and four #c_/d brads4 ,a hole is bored in the center1 of a size that will turn easily on a #a-a_/b ,no4 #h round-head screw4 ,sand all pieces well with ,no4 #a_/b sandpaper4 ,paint the various pieces as suggested in the color scheme and attach the tail ,c to piece ,b with glue and #a_/b brads4 ,the vanes ,a are attached to piece ,b with a #a-a_/b round-head screw1 with washers under the screw head and between the vanes and piece ,b4 ,piece ,b is attached to block ,e with a #a-a_/b round-head screw1 with washers under the screw head and between ,b and ,e4 ,have all movable parts so that they will move freely4 ,a finish nail may be placed in the lower part of each leg to secure the mill to the desired location4 ,,sand ,,or ,,water ,,mill4 ,this is an interesting beach toy as either fine sand or water may be used to operate it4 7,plate #cg47 ,it is very simple to construct and is made as follows3 ,the base is constructed of #a_/b pine1 #g-a_/b wide and #g-a_/b long2 and the four blocks which are glued and bradded to the corners1 are #a_/b #a #a4 ,the two uprights are #c_/d #g_/h #h-a_/d1 and the two cross supports at the tops measure #c_/d #g_/h #b-a_/b4 ,illustration3 ,plate #cg4 ,,sand ,,or ,,water ,,mill ,two holes are bored in the base for the screws that hold the uprights in place4 ,these holes are #b-c_/d from the end and #b-a_/h from the sides4 ,holes are bored in the little top braces #a_/b from the two ends and one just in the middle1 or #a-a_/d from the ends4 ,these are for the screws that hold the braces to the uprights and to the top piece4 ,all holes are bored with a drill suitable to take #a-a_/d ,no4 #h flat-head screws1 and all are countersunk on the side where the screw enters4 ,the top piece is made #a_/b #e-a_/d #e-a_/b with the two front corners slightly rounded1 as shown4 ,a hole is bored of a size to receive the funnel used1 #a-a_/b from the front edge and #b-e_/h from the sides4 ,a hole is drilled in each upright piece1 #c-a_/b from the lower end1 of a size that will insure a driving fit to the wire used1 in this case being a piece of ,no4 #ab copper-dipped1 #d-c_/d long4 ,a piece of #c_/d dowel is cut off #g_/h long and a similar hole is bored about two-thirds of the way through1 as shown4 ,four holes are bored1 as indicated on the drawing1 for the quills1 which are later glued in place4 ,feathers from the poultry yard will furnish these4 ,sand all pieces with ,no4 #a sandpaper and first assemble the top1 the two uprights and the two cross supports4 ,paint these two coats of red paint4 ,attach the cross blocks to the base with glue and #c_/d brads and paint two coats of yellow4 ,paint the tunnel two coats of bright green4 ,while these are drying construct the paddle wheel4 ,the piece through which the wire axle runs is #c_/d #c_/d #b-a_/d4 ,the four blades are #a_/d #b-a_/d #b-c_/d4 ,after these are sanded and a hole is bored through the center piece1 nail the blades to the center piece1 in the position shown in the side view4 ,use #c_/d brads and glue for fastening the blades4 ,paint two coats of yellow4 ,when the parts so far assembled are thoroughly dry1 finish the assembly1 using #a-a_/d ,no4 #h flat-head screws and glue4 ,the toy is now ready to operate4 ,,doll',s ,,cradle4 ,a cradle built according to ,plate #ch is suitable for a doll sixteen or seventeen inches in length4 ,the two sides should be first made #a_/b #f-a_/b #bj4 ,these are later beveled slightly on their lower edge to conform to the slope of the head and foot board4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ch4 ,,doll',s ,,cradle ,measure from one end along the top edge #g-a_/d and from the other end #aa-a_/d4 ,from this last end the width of the side is cut down to #d-a_/b1 as far as the #aa-a_/d measurement previously made4 ,connect the point which is #g-a_/d from the left end with the point which is #aa-a_/d from the right end4 ,this gives a slope of approximately #cj degrees1 as is shown in the side view4 ,slightly round the corners1 as indicated4 ,the head board is next made #a_/b #g #h-c_/d4 ,measure in1 on one of the long edges1 an inch from either corner1 and from these points draw straight lines to the upper corners4 ,cut carefully to this line4 ,this makes the lower edge #f-c_/d long4 ,the upper corners are rounded1 as shown4 ,the foot board is made in a similar manner1 first cutting it #a_/b #e #h4 ,place the head and foot board together to see if they exactly correspond4 ,if not1 plane or saw them while together so they are exactly alike1 except in height4 ,the four pieces so far completed may now be assembled1 using glue and #a brads4 ,see that this frame sets flat when placed on a level surface4 ,the base is next made #a_/b #h-c_/d #bj4 ,the two rockers are cut #c_/d #b-c_/d #ac-a_/b4 ,it is a good plan to cut a piece of paper the above size1 fold across the short way and sketch on the folded surface one-half the rocker shape4 ,when this has been done in a satisfactory manner it may be unfolded1 cut out and drawn on wood4 ,the rocker ends have a slight shoulder of #a_/h1 as shown4 ,in sloping the rockers1 get them alike and make the curve such as will cause them to rock with a very slight pressure4 ,illustration3 ,two ,types of ,doll ,cradles4 ,holes are bored with a small drill in the base1 #b-a_/b from the ends and #a-a_/b from the sides4 ,a hole is also bored half way between the two1 as shown1 and all are countersunk on the upper side4 ,attach the rockers with glue and #a ,no4 #f flat-head screws4 ,see that they project equally on the sides and are square with the edges4 ,now nail the rocker base to the upper frame previously made1 using #a brads and glue4 ,have the base project equally from the upper frame on each side and come flush with the ends4 ,all pieces should have been carefully sanded1 of course1 before assembling4 ,the next1 and last step is the final finish4 ,if paint is to be the finish1 select the desired color and apply a priming and a finish coat4 ,follow directions in the front of the book for painting4 ,,colonial ,,doll ,,cradle4 ,the type of cradle1 shown in ,plate #ci1 is similar in many ways to the one on the last plate4 ,it is1 however1 more artistic and somewhat more difficult to make4 ,follow directions on the last plate for making rockers1 base and footboard4 ,the headboard is cut #a_/b #h-c_/d #aj-g_/h4 ,place a center line1 longways of the piece1 as shown in the end view4 ,at the top measure #a-a_/d each side of the center line and make a dot4 ,at the base measure #c-c_/h each side of the center line and place a dot4 ,measure #a-c_/d from the top edge1 on each side4 ,connect these points1 as shown in the end view4 ,cut carefully to the lines4 ,test the head and footboard to see if they compare4 ,make the two sides of the cradle next #a_/b #i-a_/d #bj4 ,seven inches from one end and #f-a_/d from the lower edge strike a circle #a-c_/h in radius4 ,from the lower edge of this circle draw a line parallel to the base4 ,this will make the narrow part of the sides #d-a_/b wide4 ,from the point directly over the center of the circle1 square a line to the top edge of the side4 ,the outline of the side is now ready to be cut out4 ,if an expansive bit is obtainable1 bore the hole from the center of the circle with the bit set at #a-c_/h radius4 ,if this bit is not obtainable1 the hole must be cut out with a key-hole or a turning saw after first cutting to the circle1 along the other lines previously drawn4 ,the short top edge of the sides should now be beveled to conform to the slope of the head board4 ,next make the two top pieces which form the sloping part of the roof4 ,these are #a_/b #e-a_/d #g-c_/d4 ,these must be planed at their top edge to quite a sharp bevel until they are even with the top of the head board4 ,the top piece is the final piece cut1 and this is #a_/b #d-c_/d #g-c_/d4 ,the pieces should now be carefully sanded with ,no4 #a_/b sandpaper and the sides and ends assembled with glue and #a brads4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ci4 ,,colonial ,,doll ,,cradle ,the roof pieces are next placed4 ,be sure that the top piece sits flat and overhangs equally on both sides4 ,holes are bored in the bottom piece for screws1 #b-g_/h from the ends and #a-a_/b from the sides4 ,a third hole is bored at each end half way between the other two1 as shown1 and all are countersunk4 ,attach the rockers with glue and #a flat-head screws1 being careful that they project equally on both sides and are at right angles with the edges of the base4 ,the final finish is optional1 but if the cradle is to be painted or enameled it should first receive a priming coat of flat white4 ,see directions for painting in the first part of the book4 ,,doll',s ,,bed4 ,the bed illustrated in ,plate #dj1 is suitable for the ordinary size doll1 #af to #ah in length4 ,the four legs should first be cut1 the two long ones being #g_/h #g_/h #ab and the two short ones #g_/h #g_/h #i-a_/d4 ,these should be planed up square and smooth and the top edges chamfered #a_/af1 as shown4 ,the two side rails are next made #c_/h #b-a_/b #bj-a_/b4 ,the four cross rails1 two on the head board and two on the foot board1 are made #a_/b #g_/h #h-c_/d4 ,seven slats are next made #c_/h #a-a_/d #h4 ,two long supporting slats1 on which the seven slats previously made rest1 are now made #c_/h #a #ai-a_/d4 ,three upright slats are now made for the head board1 two being #c_/h #a-c_/d #h1 and one #c_/h #c #h4 ,three similar slats are made for the foot board1 two #c_/h #a-c_/d #e-a_/d and one #c_/h #c #e-a_/d4 ,seven holes should be carefully bored where the cross rails and legs are joined4 ,use a small drill about #a_/h in diameter4 ,these holes are #b-a_/b up from the bottom end of the legs and #a down from the top ends4 ,in assembling these parts1 use glue1 brads and #a-a_/b ,no4 #h round-head screws1 as shown on the drawing4 ,next place the slats1 as indicated1 using glue and #a-a_/d brads4 ,take pains to space these properly and center them on the cross piece4 ,all brad holes1 wherever placed1 should be set with a nail set and the hole filled with hard beeswax4 ,in nailing in the brads1 rest the bottom support on the corner of the bench1 so as not to strain the cross piece or legs in pounding with the hammer4 ,next attach the long side rails1 having their ends come flush with the outer side of the leg4 ,use glue and #a brads4 ,see that the rails are attached square with the long edges of legs4 ,the two shorter supporting rails 7#c_/h #a #ai-a_/d71 are next nailed to the lower cross pieces at the head and foot of the bed1 and close up against the long side rails4 ,a few brads1 #a long1 should be driven through from the side rails into these to help secure them in place4 ,illustration3 ,plate #dj4 ,,doll',s ,,bed ,the seven cross slats are carefully spaced1 glued1 and nailed in place with #a_/b brads4 ,while nailing1 place a block of wood beneath the ends for a bearing4 ,all pieces should have been sanded previous to assembling1 and the bed may now be either stained or painted4 ,if painted1 a priming coat should be applied first4 ,after this has dried it should be carefully sanded with ,no4 #j sandpaper and the finish coat applied4 ,considerable care should be taken in the painting to insure a good1 clean-cut job4 ,refer back to the first of the book for necessary instructions for painting4 ,there is an opportunity here for the older sister to help in preparing the bedding4 ,,two ,,types ,,of ,,stilts4 7,type ,a ,stilt47 ,most every boy knows there is a certain fascination in walking on stilts1 but they may prove a dangerous pastime if not strongly made4 ,in this style of stilt 7,type ,a1 ,plate #da7 the uprights are held beneath the arm pits4 ,the upright pieces should be made #g_/h #a-c_/h #e'1 or as long as the boy desires4 ,hard pine or ash make strong1 durable stilts4 ,the edges of the upright should be slightly rounded so that they will fit the hand nicely4 ,illustration3 ,two ,kinds of ,stilts4 ,holes are bored with a #a_/d bit1 #ag from the lower end and #b-a_/b apart1 as shown4 ,the upper hole is countersunk to receive a #b-a_/b ,no4 #ab flat-head screw4 ,illustration3 ,plate #da4 ,,stilts ,the foot rests are made #a #c-a_/b #e and shaped1 as indicated on the drawing4 ,they are secured to the uprights with screws and #a_/d #c round-head stove bolts4 ,several holes at various heights could be bored to allow of adjusting the foot rest to suit the user of the stilt4 ,the uprights can be painted red and the foot rests green1 or the whole can be left plain1 according to the desires of the maker4 ,a touch of paint1 however1 not only adds to the appearance of any article1 but also preserves it and lengthens its life4 7,type ,b ,stilt47 ,type ,b stilt 7,plate #da7 is made shorter than ,type ,a and is to be strapped to the leg just above the knee4 ,the uprights are #a #a-c_/h #cf1 or longer if desired4 ,round the edges of the uprights and bore holes at the same places and of the same size as in ,type ,a4 ,a strap is screwed on1 as is shown in the drawing1 to support the feet1 and another strap1 long enough to go around the leg beneath the knee1 is attached at the upper end1 #b from the top4 ,sandpaper thoroughly and finish to suit4 ,a pole about seven feet long should be carried to balance and steady oneself4 ,illustration3 ,two ,kinds of ,carts and a ,dump ,wagon 7in front74 ,,child',s ,,cart4 ,carts always appeal to youngsters and the one given here 7,plate #db7 is of simple construction4 ,make the side pieces first #a_/b #f #aj4 ,on one long edge measure in #b-a_/b and from this point draw a line to the upper corner4 ,cut carefully to this line4 ,the front piece is made #a_/b #f #f and the end piece #a_/b #f #f-c_/d4 ,this end piece is beveled to conform to the top and bottom edges of the cart1 as shown in the side view4 ,the bottom piece is made #a_/b #f #f-a_/b4 ,illustration3 ,plate #db4 ,,child',s ,,cart ,the piece to which the wheels are attached1 is made #g_/h #a #g-a_/h4 ,this piece has two holes bored and countersunk in it for screws1 #a-a_/d from the ends and half way between the sides4 ,two small blocks are made #a_/b #a #b-a_/b and tapered #c_/d1 as shown4 ,these blocks have holes bored and countersunk for screws4 ,bore the holes in such a manner that they will not come directly opposite each other1 otherwise the screws will be likely to hit each other4 ,holes are bored in the front piece of the cart and countersunk on the inner side4 ,these pieces are #c from either side1 the first one being #b-a_/d from the upper edge and the second an inch below the first4 ,the handle measures #g_/h #a #cj4 ,a hole is bored #e_/h from the front end with a half-inch bit and the extreme end of the handle is slightly chamfered for a finish4 ,the opposite end of the handle is cut at an angle of #cj1 as shown4 ,a piece of dowel1 #a_/b in diameter and #c long1 is cut and inserted in the hole in the handle and secured by driving an inch brad in from the under side of the handle4 ,the wheels are #g_/h #e and may be cut out with a turning saw and trimmed to the line with a chisel1 or1 if a lathe is available1 they can quickly be cut to size4 ,if they are to be sawed out1 a circle should be struck with a divider or compass set at a #b-a_/b radius and then carefully cut to the line4 ,the axle is attached to the bottom piece with glue and #a-a_/d ,no4 #h flat-head screws4 ,bore a hole in the end of the axle1 exactly in the center1 using a drill slightly smaller than the screw that is to hold the wheels in position4 ,bore a hole in each wheel1 at the center point1 a little larger than the screw that is to be used4 ,attach the wheels with #a-a_/b ,no4 #aj round-head blue screws1 using a small washer under the screw head and also between the wheel and the cart body4 ,tighten the screw just enough to allow a little play for the wheels to turn easily4 ,sand all pieces thoroughly before assembling1 using ,no4 #a sandpaper first and finishing with ,no4 #j4 ,assemble the body part of the cart with glue and #a brads4 ,a suggested color scheme is given in the drawing4 ,,child',s ,,dump ,,wagon4 ,this toy at once appeals to the children as it only requires a simple turn of the crank to quickly dump the load of sand4 ,each part of this toy is completely detailed in ,plate #dd1 while ,plate #dc gives the assembly drawing4 ,illustration3 ,plate #dc4 ,,child',s ,,dump ,,wagon ,the two sides are first made #a_/b #e-a_/b #ab1 and the two ends #a_/b #f #g-a_/b4 ,the sides are beveled about #a_/h on the lower edge so that they will conform to the angle of the end piece4 ,the ends taper from #g-a_/b long at the top to #e-e_/h at the bottom4 ,this angle is obtained by measuring in #ae_/af from either side and drawing to the opposite upper corner4 ,saw and finish to this line and slightly round the upper corners1 as shown4 ,bore a hole with a #a_/b bit at the point indicated4 ,the bottom piece is made #a_/b #f-e_/h #ab4 ,sand these five pieces and assemble1 using #a-a_/d brads and glue4 ,plane the side edges of the bottom board to the same angle as the slope of the sides4 ,the two end uprights are now made #a_/b #f-c_/d #h4 ,measure up #b-a_/d on the short edges and place a dot4 ,connect these points with a sloping line and saw and finish to the outline shown4 ,bore holes with a #a_/b bit at the place indicated4 ,locate and bore a screw hole #a_/b up from the center of the lower edge to attach brace block4 ,make two small supporting blocks #g_/h #a-c_/d #a-c_/d4 ,bore a #a_/b hole carefully in the center and drill four smaller holes to receive #a-a_/d ,no4 #h flat-head screws1 #c_/h from each other1 as shown4 ,countersink these four holes4 ,glue and screw these blocks to the end of the wagon box1 #a-a_/d from the top edge1 as shown4 ,make two brace blocks by first cutting out a square #g_/h #a #a and cutting this in two diagonally from corner to corner4 ,glue and screw these blocks to the end uprights1 using #a ,no4 #f flat-head screws4 ,the underbody should next be made #a_/b #h #ah-a_/b4 ,measure in #c-a_/d from each corner on the long edge1 and with the dividers set at #b-a_/d1 strike a quarter circle and connect these arcs with straight lines1 making the width in the middle #d-a_/b4 ,saw this out with a coping saw and finish smoothly to the line4 ,locate and drill the twelve screw holes shown1 with a drill the size of a ,no4 #f screw4 ,countersink all holes1 except the four holes which hold the supports for the cart handle4 ,these four are not countersunk as #a ,no4 #f round-head screws are used at these points4 ,attach the end uprights to the underbody with glue and #a ,no4 #f flat-head screws1 eight in all4 ,next make the two axles #g_/h #a #h-a_/d and bore and countersink the three holes1 on the narrow edge1 at the points indicated4 ,glue and screw these in place1 #a-a_/d from the front and rear ends1 using #a-a_/d ,no4 #h flat-head screws4 ,these axles project #a_/h beyond the sides of the underbody1 on all sides1 so as to allow the wheels to turn without interference4 ,the wheels may be made on a lathe or with a turning saw1 #g_/h thick and all exactly #d in diameter4 ,bore a hole in their center with a drill a little larger than the wire of a #b ,no4 #aj round-head screw4 ,when assembling1 use a washer on each side of the wheel4 ,illustration3 ,plate #dd4 ,,details ,,of ,,dump ,,wagon ,a hole should be started about #c_/h deep in the center of the ends of the axle to insure the screws going in properly4 ,the cart handle is made #a_/b #a #cj1 with one end rounded and the opposite end chamfered #a_/h4 ,on the latter end measure in #e_/h on the wide side and bore a hole carefully with a #a_/b bit4 ,cut a piece from a #a_/b dowel1 #c-a_/d long1 and insert it in this hole1 keeping it in place with glue and one #g_/h brad4 ,bore a hole #a_/b from the rounded end with a #c_/af bit4 ,the two pieces which hold the handle are now made #c_/d #g_/h #b-c_/d4 ,a #c_/af hole is bored in the #g_/h edge of these pieces1 #a_/b from the end4 ,these holes1 and the hole in the handle1 are to receive a round-head stove bolt1 which is #c_/af #b-a_/d4 ,glue and screw these two pieces in place in the center of the front end of the underbody1 leaving about #a_/af space between the handle and the edges of the blocks for freedom of movement4 ,the dumping handle is made of pieces of dowel1 the main piece being #a in diameter by #d-a_/b long4 ,the other pieces are cut from a half-inch dowel1 #c and #c-a_/b long1 respectively4 ,on the main dowel bore holes with a #a_/b bit1 #c_/d from the ends1 to receive the shorter dowels4 ,glue and insert the #c-a_/d dowel and bore a small hole to receive a #g_/h ,no4 #f round-head screw4 ,place this screw and then insert the dowel through the front upright into the front supporting block and flush with the inner surface of the front box end4 ,hold in place in the block with glue and a #a-a_/d ,no4 #h round-head screw4 ,glue and screw the #c dowel in place for the grip4 ,a piece of #a_/b dowel1 #b long1 is similarly placed through the rear upright1 thence into the rear supporting block and box end4 ,this is also held with glue and a #a-a_/d ,no4 #h round-head screw through the block4 ,sand and apply two coats of paint before assembling the wheels and handle4 ,,child',s ,,wheelbarrow4 7,type ,a47 ,the ,child's ,wheelbarrow1 shown in ,plate #de1 is very serviceable and quite easy to make1 and1 if the directions are followed carefully1 the result will be a toy that will outlast a majority of the toys ordinarily found on the store shelves4 ,first1 make the handles #g_/h #a-a_/d #cj4 ,chamfer the handles1 as shown1 for four inches from one end4 ,the two sides are made #a_/b #e-a_/b #ae and #a-a_/b is measured in on one long edge and a line drawn from this point to the lower corner4 ,saw and plane to this line and round the upper corner with a chisel and file4 ,the end is #c_/h #e-a_/b #g-a_/d4 ,the bottom is first cut #a_/b #aa #ad4 ,on one end measure in #a-g_/h from one side and a like distance from the other side4 ,connect these points with the opposite extreme corners and finish to these lines4 ,the bottom is now tapered to #g-a_/d wide at the front end4 ,assemble the sides1 the bottom and the end with glue and #a-a_/b finish nails1 setting the front piece back #a_/d from the end of the sides1 as shown in the drawing4 ,set all nails below the surface and fill the holes with beeswax4 ,place the assembled part on the handles in such a manner that the front end of the box part of the wheelbarrow is #e from the front end of the handles1 and the handles at the front end are #b apart inside1 and at the grip end #ac apart outside4 ,while in this position1 which is the permanent assembling position1 mark the position of the six screw holes1 which are bored with a drill of a size to receive a #a ,no4 #f flat-head screw4 ,countersink these holes4 ,the two legs are made #g_/h #a #h-c_/d and beveled #a_/d at the lower end4 ,on the upper end a notch is cut out #c_/h deep by #a-a_/d long4 ,two holes are bored1 as indicated1 to attach the leg to the handle4 ,this is done with glue and #a ,no4 #f round-head screws4 ,illustration3 ,wheelbarrows4 ,a #a_/b dowel rod runs between the legs to brace them1 and a hole is bored #c_/h deep in each leg1 #b-a_/b from the lower end4 ,the dowel is #i long and is held in place with glue1 and a #c_/d brad is driven in the leg to hold it firmly in place4 ,illustration3 ,plate #de4 ,,child',s ,,wheelbarrow 7,,type ,a7 ,illustration3 ,plate #df4 ,,child',s ,,wheelbarrow 7,,type ,b7 ,a hole is bored very carefully #a-a_/d from the front end of the handles to receive the wheel axle4 ,it will be noticed1 by referring to the top view of the drawing1 that on account of the taper of the handles this hole must be bored slightly on a slant and about half way through4 ,the bit should be of a size to allow a piece of sixteen-penny nail to turn freely1 as the axle should be made of a nail of this size1 cut #c long4 ,the wheel is best made of hard wood1 such as maple1 #g_/h thick and #f in diameter4 ,bore the hole in the center with the same drill just used4 ,next cut two pieces from a #a_/b dowel1 #c_/h long1 and bore a similar hole exactly through their center4 ,these two pieces of dowel are glued to the wheel and serve to make it run in the center4 ,when assembling1 place a small washer between the dowels and handle1 as shown4 ,all pieces should have been carefully sanded before assembling1 and the wheel should be painted red and allowed to dry before being put in place4 ,the remainder of the wheelbarrow should be painted bright green4 ,apply two coats1 rubbing down the first coat when dry with ,no4 #j sandpaper before applying the second4 ,,child',s ,,wheelbarrow4 7,type ,b47 ,this style wheelbarrow 7,plates #df and #dg7 is planned exceptionally strong and sturdy and will stand a large amount of hard usage4 ,it is made larger and stronger than ,type ,a1 and is naturally a little more difficult to make1 but well within the ability of an eighth grade boy4 ,this type has removable sideboards4 ,the plate of details gives exact information how to make each piece1 so it will not be necessary to give the directions here4 ,after all pieces are correctly made and all holes are bored at the places indicated1 each part should be sanded very carefully and made ready for assembling4 ,care should be taken to get good tight joints on the front brace1 the wheel supports and the tops of the legs4 ,the metal braces can be made from strips of zinc #a #d1 bent over the braces ,w1 allowing a little freedom for removing the sideboards4 ,holes should be drilled in these braces1 where shown1 to receive #a_/b ,no4 #f round-head screws4 ,first attach the bottom boards to the handles with #a ,no4 #f flat-head screws1 placing the ends of the handles even with the front of the bottom board and flush with the side edges4 ,next fasten the front and rear brace in place with #a-a_/b ,no4 #h flat-head screws1 on the under side1 and with #a-a_/b ,no4 #h round-head screws and washers from the outside of the handle to the brace ends4 ,illustration3 ,plate #dg4 ,,details ,,of ,,type ,b ,,wheelbarrow ,fasten one wheel brace in its proper place with #a ,no4 #f flat-head screws from the upper side of the bottom board4 ,place the axle of the wheel in the hole and attach the other wheel in the same manner4 ,glue and screw the front uprights in place1 as indicated1 with #a ,no4 #f round-head screws1 and place the top cross piece on these and hold in place with glue and #a round-head blue screws4 ,place the sides in position1 with the front ends flush with the outer edges of the front braces4 ,place the metal braces over the supporting pieces and screw in place1 using #a ,no4 #f round-head blue screws4 ,braces ,x1 which run from the wheel supports to the front piece of the wheelbarrow1 are screwed in place1 as shown1 using #a-a_/d ,no4 #h round-head screws4 ,it will be noticed that the hole for the dowel stick in the leg only extends in #c_/h4 ,place one leg in position1 #ad-a_/b from the ends of the handles1 using glue and #a ,no4 #f round-head blue screws4 ,insert the dowel stick in this leg and also in the second leg and secure the second leg in place4 ,the dowel should have glue placed on its ends1 and1 after the legs are in place1 an inch brad should be driven into each leg1 through the dowel1 to hold it firmly in place4 ,the color scheme given in the drawing is a pleasing one4 ,the wheel is painted two coats of red before being placed in position4 ,,clown ,,running ,,wheel4 ,this has proven a very popular toy and is not hard to construct4 ,the legs and body may be made of pulp or ,beaver board1 a material which is very good1 as it saws easily and will not split4 ,wood1 however1 may be used1 if preferred4 ,the details of the body and legs are full size and these may be transferred to the wood by the tracing method described at the beginning of the book4 ,these pieces1 when done1 may be painted1 if desired1 and allowed to dry while the rest of the parts are being made4 ,bore all necessary holes shown in the drawing4 ,the wheels are best turned on a lathe to #d in diameter and a hole bored in the center of each of a size that will allow a #a_/d dowel to fit tightly4 ,if no lathe is available1 the wheel can be cut out with a turning saw and finished with a chisel and file4 ,the wheels are best made from #a_/d maple4 ,two pieces of #c_/h dowel are cut #a_/d long and attached #a_/b above the center of the wheel1 as shown4 ,this is done on both wheels1 and the piece is attached with glue and #a_/b brads4 ,it is a good plan to bore holes for these brads and thus prevent the possible splitting of the wood4 ,the dowel that goes between the wheels is made #a_/d #c_/d and is glued securely in the holes in the wheels later4 ,another piece of #a_/d dowel is cut #d long1 and is fitted to support the body of the clown on the handle4 ,illustration3 ,plate #dh4 ,,details ,,for ,,clown ,,running ,,wheel ,illustration3 ,plate #di4 ,,details ,,for ,,clown ,,running ,,wheel ,the handle is made #g_/h #a-a_/h #cj1 and the grip is rounded and shaped1 as shown on ,plate #dh4 ,in the opposite end of the handle a slot is cut #a_/af wide and #a-a_/b long4 ,this is to receive the strip of zinc which runs between the wheels4 ,this strip of zinc is made of #a_/af material1 #a wide and #d-a_/b long4 ,triangular pieces are cut from one end1 #a_/d on a side1 as shown on the detail sheet4 ,this strip is held in the slot in the handle by first drilling through both the wood and the zinc1 with a drill the size of a #c_/d brad1 and afterwards gluing and bradding the zinc into position with #c_/d brads4 ,a hole1 #a_/d in diameter1 is also drilled in the opposite end of the zinc1 #e_/h from the end and #a_/b from the sides4 ,this goes over the axle of the wheel4 ,a hole is bored with a #a_/d bit1 #b-c_/h from the end of the handle1 as shown on ,plate #dh1 and at an angle1 as indicated4 ,a similar hole is bored in the seat of the clown4 ,the parts are now ready to sandpaper1 paint1 and after drying1 assemble4 ,illustration3 ,clown ,running ,wheel4 ,illustration3 ,cock ,horse4 ,the color scheme is given on the drawing4 ,after the paint has dried1 the lines where the various colors join1 should be accented with a pen1 using ,india ink4 ,the upper legs of the clown are attached to the body with #a-a_/b copper rivets and the lower legs are held to the upper by #a_/b rivets4 ,when putting the rivets in place1 hold the end which has the washer against some hard1 metal body and strike with a hammer1 taking care not to get the washer so tight that the legs will not move4 ,a #c_/d ,no4 #f round-head screw holds the feet to the projecting dowel on the wheel4 ,it is best to bore the hole for the screw in the piece of dowel a little smaller than the size of the screw so as to prevent splitting4 ,glue the supporting dowel in both the clown and the handle4 ,,cock ,,horse4 ,the ,cock ,horse is a modern version of the old hobby horse1 and affords the children1 between the ages of four and six1 unlimited pleasure4 ,the head is made of a piece of #g_/h bass or pine1 #e-a_/b wide and #i-a_/b long4 ,the features may be enlarged from the size drawn in ,plate #ej1 by the method given at the beginning of the book for enlarging2 or1 if one is apt at free-hand drawing1 the outline may be copied offhand4 ,cut the features out right to the line with a coping saw and smooth the edges and surfaces with ,no4 #a_/b sandpaper4 ,the stick is made #g_/h #a #cb1 and the front end is chamfered #a_/h4 ,holes are bored for #a-a_/b ,no4 #aj flat-head screws1 the first #a-c_/d from the front end and the other two #a-a_/b apart4 ,two smaller pieces1 which are made #e_/h #g_/h #g-a_/b1 are to hold the wheel in position4 ,holes are bored in these two pieces to take #a-a_/d ,no4 #h round-head screws1 the first one being #g_/h from the end and the next two #c_/d apart4 ,on this same end a piece is cut off at an angle1 as shown4 ,a hole is bored at the opposite end of these two pieces to receive a #b-a_/b #a_/d round-head stove bolt1 on which the wheel turns4 ,the wheel is made #g_/h thick and #f in diameter1 either on a lathe or with a coping saw4 ,a hole is bored in the center a little larger than the #a_/d #b-a_/b stove bolt1 so that the wheel will turn easily upon it4 ,glue and screw the two side pieces to the long stick1 using #a-a_/d round-head blue screws4 ,give these two coats of natural varnish4 ,paint the wheel two coats of bright red4 ,paint the head one coat of flat white1 and after drying give one or two coats of white enamel4 ,after this has dried thoroughly1 paint the comb and wattles bright red4 ,paint the beak and outer circle of the eyes yellow1 and the feathers about the neck black4 ,where the colors join1 outline with a drafting pen and ,india ink4 ,a hole is bored1 in the head where shown1 to receive a piece of #c_/d dowel1 #f long4 ,this serves as a handle4 ,glue this handle in place1 taking care that it projects equally on both sides4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ej4 ,,cock ,,horse ,,rocking ,,rooster4 ,this very interesting action toy is especially suitable for children as young as two years of age4 ,it is simple in construction and perfectly safe4 7,plate #ea47 ,the seat board is made #g_/h #e #ba4 ,measure #f in from one end on both long edges1 and at these points narrow the front end to #c-a_/b wide by sawing out a piece on both sides #a-a_/d wide4 ,round the corners where the taper comes1 also the other four corners of the top4 ,similarly1 round the upper edge of the top4 ,the two rockers are made #g_/h #d-a_/b #ah4 ,measure down #a_/d on the two ends1 and from these points carefully sketch a free-hand curve with its highest point directly in the center of the lower edge4 ,be sure this curve balances equally and that the two rockers are exactly alike4 ,the rooster's head is made #g_/h #f #aj-a_/d and the outline is sketched upon it similar to the one shown on the drawing4 ,cut out the features with a coping saw1 taking pains to have the saw at right angles to the surface of the wood at all times4 ,a hole is bored in the head1 for the handle1 about #c-c_/d from the top and #a-a_/b from the rear edge4 ,a #c_/d bit is used4 ,illustration3 ,the ,rocking ,rooster is safe as well as interesting4 ,be sure and bore this hole perfectly straight4 ,the handle is made #f long and #c_/d in diameter1 shaping it as shown in the front view4 ,if this cannot be turned on a lathe1 the handle may be made from a #f piece of #c_/d dowel1 rounding the ends slightly with a file4 ,holes are now bored for the #a-a_/b ,no4 #h flat-head screws which hold the rockers and head to the top4 ,the locations of these holes are clearly shown in the drawing4 ,countersink the holes on the side from which the screws enter4 ,the little separating block1 which goes between the rockers1 is made #g_/h #a #b-a_/b1 and is held in place with glue4 ,sand all pieces thoroughly4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ea4 ,,rocking ,,rooster ,assemble all pieces carefully1 seeing that the rooster's head is centered well and placed two inches from the front end4 ,the rockers are attached #a-a_/b from the ends and so placed that they are just an inch apart4 ,paint the whole toy one coat of flat white and sand lightly with ,no4 #j sandpaper when dry4 ,paint in the comb and wattles of the rooster bright red and the feathers on the neck1 green4 ,after these colors have dried1 apply another coat of white1 where indicated1 this time using white enamel4 ,use a small brush for the details4 ,the beak and the circle about the eye are painted yellow and the other circle about the eye is painted black4 ,if the paint does not seem to have the proper sparkle when the last coat is dry1 apply another coat of each color4 ,outline the edge of the comb and wattles with a drafting pen and ,india ink4 ,outline also1 the beak and eyes4 ,this causes a sharp contrast where the two colors meet and sets off the features4 ,the top and rockers are treated with two coats of white enamel on top of the priming coat4 ,,kiddie ,,kar4 ,it is hardly necessary to speak of the popularity of this toy4 ,its construction is well within the ability of the average eighth grade boy4 ,the seat board 7,plate #eb7 is made of #g_/h stock and is first cut #g-a_/b wide and #ba-a_/b long4 ,half the outline of the curve at the front should be traced on a folded piece of paper1 the proper size1 and cut out and traced on the wood4 ,this outline should now be carefully sawed and chiseled to the correct shape4 ,illustration3 ,kiddie ,kars4 ,the top edge of the seat should be rounded4 ,the rear support should have half its outline traced on a folded piece of paper and cut out and traced on a piece of wood #g_/h #e #f-a_/b4 ,finish to the line4 ,the brace is cut #g_/h #e #i-a_/b4 ,mark out the outline of the curves1 as shown1 and saw and chisel to the line4 ,the wheels and steering gear should be turned on a lathe to the dimensions shown on the drawing4 ,a hole is bored in the seat board1 #a-c_/d from the front end and half way between the sides1 with a #ae_/af bit4 ,this is to allow the steering post1 which is turned to #g_/h diameter1 freedom to turn4 ,holes are drilled through the under part of the rear brace1 as shown1 to secure the same to the top4 ,holes are likewise bored half way between the sides of this brace1 to engage with the curved supporting piece4 ,the curved supporting piece has two holes bored #a-a_/d from the small end1 #a apart4 ,this is for the screws that go into the top4 ,holes1 bored with a small bit1 should be started in the lower part of the rear brace1 to receive the large screws which hold the rear wheels in place4 ,it is quite necessary to make these holes1 using a bit a trifle smaller than the screw to be used1 as it is very difficult to force a screw of this size into wood of this hardness4 ,these holes must be bored exactly straight1 otherwise the wheels will turn unevenly4 ,washers should be used between the screw heads and the wheels and between the wheels and any part they are likely to come in contact with4 ,a hole is bored in the steering rod1 directly below the top board1 for a screw to be placed to hold the upper and lower part of the steering rod firm4 ,glue is also used when assembling the two parts of the steering apparatus4 ,the handle is also held in place with a screw and glue1 as shown4 ,a hole is bored in the handle1 of a size suitable to receive the steering rod4 ,washers should be placed in the steering gear1 above and below the seat board1 to prevent wear4 ,in preparing the slot to receive the front wheel1 a hole should first be bored with an inch bit so that the top edge of the slot comes #c-e_/h from the bottom of the steering gear4 ,this slot should be very carefully sawed out and smoothed up so that the wheel1 which is #g_/h thick1 will turn accurately4 ,the holes in all the wheels must center accurately and be larger than the screw or bolt which goes through them4 ,the front wheel turns on a #a_/d #a-c_/d round-head stove bolt4 ,the color scheme may be varied to suit individual tastes4 ,the one suggested in the drawing has red wheels with the remaining parts of the kiddie kar finished natural with spar varnish4 ,all parts should be thoroughly sanded before assembling4 ,two coats of paint should be applied to the wheels and two coats of varnish to the remainder4 ,sand in between coats with ,no4 #j sandpaper4 ,illustration3 ,plate #eb4 ,,kiddie ,,kar ,,kiddie ,,koaster4 ,this lively toy is somewhat different from the three-wheeled ,kiddie ,kar and is suited for children of eight or over4 ,if desired1 this toy may be made up with three wheels like a velocipede4 ,if this type is made1 a piece of dowel rod1 of hard wood1 is cut about six or eight inches long and an inch in diameter4 ,this dowel should go through a hole in the rear brace1 and the wheels should be attached to the ends with #b ,no4 #ab round-head screws and washers4 ,the following directions are for the two-wheel ,kiddie ,koaster shown in ,plate #ec4 ,the front supporting piece is first made of a piece of hard wood1 #b #b-a_/d #ai4 ,a distance of #g is measured up from the lower end and #g_/h is measured beyond this4 ,from this point the remainder of the brace is thinned to one inch in thickness4 ,the top end is rounded and the bottom end chamfered1 as shown4 ,a hole is carefully bored with an inch bit1 #e-c_/d from the lower end4 ,an allowance of #a_/b is made for the thickness of each fork and the remaining inch is removed with a saw up to the hole previously bored4 ,a hole is bored for the handle1 #a-a_/d from the top1 with a #g_/h bit4 ,another hole is bored on each side1 #f-a_/d from the lower end with a #c_/d bit1 #a_/b deep4 ,illustration3 ,the ,kiddie ,koaster4 ,these two holes are for the foot rests4 ,small holes are bored one inch from the lower end to receive a #a_/d #b-a_/b round-head stove bolt4 ,a #a_/d bit should be used to bore these4 ,the rear support is made #b #b-a_/d #af-c_/d4 ,from a point #f-a_/b from the lower end this is thinned down to one inch thick1 the same way as the front support4 ,at the upper end measure down on one edge #g_/h and draw to the opposite corner4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ec4 ,,kiddie ,,koaster ,cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with the cross piece4 ,a hole is bored with a #a_/d bit1 one inch from the lower end to take a #a_/d x #b-a_/b round-head stove bolt4 ,chamfer #c_/h from the lower end4 ,bore a hole #d-c_/d from the lower end with an inch bit and remove the wood to form the rear fork1 in the same manner as was done for the front4 ,the cross piece between the front and rear support1 on which the seat rests1 is first made #g_/h x #e x #ac-a_/h4 ,measure in two inches from the upper corner and draw a line to the lower corner4 ,saw squarely on this line to get the proper slant4 ,measure from this upper left-hand corner #i-a_/b and draw a line from here to the lower right-hand corner4 ,saw to this line4 ,on this last end sawed1 measure in #c_/d and make a tenon1 as indicated in the side view4 ,this tenon should be #a_/b thick4 ,the other dimensions for the tenon are given on the drawing4 ,on the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to receive the tenon tightly1 and to make the top edge of the cross piece and upper end of the rear support on a line4 ,this tenon should be cut with a #a_/b bit1 boring so as to make the mortise about #ac_/af deep4 ,remove the extra wood with a small chisel until the tenon fits snugly within the mortise4 ,later1 when assembling1 this joint is glued and #c_/d brads are driven in from the side to pin it in place1 as indicated4 ,the seat is made #c_/d #e #g4 ,it is shaped1 as shown in the sketch1 cutting the outline with a turning saw and finishing to the line with a chisel and file4 ,two holes are bored and countersunk to receive #a-a_/d ,no4 #h flat-head screws which hold the seat in place4 ,the seat is stuffed with tow1 excelsior or other suitable material and covered with brown burlap or with imitation leather1 as desired4 ,a piece of braid1 to match the material used1 is tacked around the lower edge with upholstery tacks to match4 ,the handles and foot rests are best turned out on a lathe1 although they may be whittled out with a jack-knife4 ,the dimensions for these are clearly shown4 ,the front wheel is #i-a_/b in diameter1 made from wood #c_/d thick4 ,the rear wheel is #h in diameter1 the wood being #c_/d stock4 ,these wheels should be made of hard wood or wood glued up three-ply4 ,these are best turned on a lathe1 although they may be cut with a turning saw and chiseled to the line and finished with a file4 ,a special hinge may be obtained from most any toy manufacturing firm1 to place between the front support and the cross-piece4 ,in the author's classes1 hinges of this special type were obtained in various sizes1 without any trouble4 ,the size indicated in the drawing is five inches long and costs fourteen cents4 ,if these special hinges are not used1 the ordinary butt hinges may be substituted1 two being used4 ,a groove of the proper length and depth1 to fit these hinges1 can be drilled and chiseled out in the front brace4 ,a saw cut can be made in the cross piece1 across the end1 in which to insert the hinge4 ,when assembled1 screws should be placed so as to accurately engage with the screw holes in the hinges4 ,before assembling1 all pieces should be thoroughly sanded and painted two coats4 ,a suggested color scheme is given on the drawing4 ,,ski ,,skooter4 ,the ,ski ,skooter1 shown on ,plate #ed1 is best made of ash4 ,the runner is first made #e_/h #c-c_/h #ci and thinned down1 for ten inches from the front end1 to #c_/h thick4 ,the runner is steamed1 bent and grooved by the method shown in ,plate #ee4 ,the upright piece is made #g_/h #c-a_/h #af-a_/h and one of the bracing pieces #g_/h #a-c_/h #ab and the other #g_/h #a-c_/h #ac4 ,these are cut at an angle of #de degrees at each end1 as shown4 ,illustration3 ,the ,ski ,skooter is great sport on a moderate hill4 ,the seat is made #g_/h #f #ab1 and the top edges are slightly rounded4 ,two grips1 which also have their lower edges rounded1 are made #c_/d #g_/h #e4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ed4 ,,ski ,,skooter ,illustration3 ,plate #ee4 ,,method ,,of ,,bending ,,runners ,two strengthening pieces are made #g_/h #g_/h #c-a_/h and their ends are cut at #de degrees1 as shown4 ,these are attached to the upright directly under the seat4 ,bore all holes1 where shown in the drawing1 and countersink them4 ,assemble with glue and screws of a size shown on the drawing4 ,the color scheme is given on the drawing1 but may be changed to suit individual tastes4 ,two coats of paint are applied1 sanding carefully between coats4 ,the seat can be upholstered if desired4 ,,method ,,of ,,bending ,,runners4 ,place the ends in a washboiler1 about half full of boiling water1 and allow them to remain about five hours4 ,place the tip1 or front end of the runners1 under the back edge of the top step of a step ladder4 ,slowly bend the runner downward until it lays flat on the front edges of the other steps4 ,secure this in place either with clamps or by pieces of rope and wood4 ,plate #ee shows two methods of bending the runners4 ,regular skis may be bent in the same manner4 ,leave the runners in the clamps overnight4 ,,ski ,,skippers4 ,the ,ski ,skipper affords a lively form of winter amusement1 and great speed can be obtained on the surface of the snow1 especially when the crust is covered with a small amount of light snow4 ,illustration3 ,the ,ski ,skipper will please boys as well as girls4 ,the runners are best made of white ash1 from half-inch material1 #b-c_/d wide and #db long4 7,plate #ef47 ,the front end of the runners is tapered1 starting about five inches from the end4 ,the extreme tips are blunt1 being #a_/b wide4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ef4 ,,ski ,,skipper ,starting about twelve inches from the front end1 the runners are thinned down with a plane1 on the upper surface1 to #c_/h thick4 ,both runners have a groove cut along their counters from the rear end to the point where they curve upward4 ,this groove is #a_/d deep and #a_/b wide1 and may be cut by various methods4 ,it may be cut with a grooving plane2 it may be scored with a sharp-pointed gauge and the inner part removed with a chisel2 or1 if a power saw is available1 it may be easily cut with a dado saw4 ,the upper edge of the runners may be chamfered about #a_/h for a finish4 ,when the foregoing operations are completed1 the runners should be bent1 using the method shown in ,plate #ee4 ,the slats forming the seat top are now made #a_/b #b-a_/b #ab1 and the single slat for the foot rest #a_/b #a-a_/b #ab4 ,the seat slats have holes bored and countersunk #c_/d from the edges and #a-a_/d from the ends1 to receive #a ,no4 #h flat-head screws4 ,the foot slat has a similar hole bored #a-a_/d from the ends and centered between the edges4 ,the seat supports are first cut #g_/h #g-a_/b #i-a_/b and then an inch is measured in on the top edge on each side and lines are drawn to the lower corners1 as shown4 ,saw and plane to this line1 making the taper as shown in the side view4 ,the cross brace is made #g_/h #c #i4 ,the supports for the foot rests are first made #g_/h #c #c-a_/b4 ,on the upper edge1 which is #c-a_/b long1 measure in #c_/h from each end and draw the sloping lines to the lower corners1 making the taper1 as indicated4 ,round these upper corners4 ,bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights at places where they will engage with the uprights1 at points shown on the drawing4 ,there should be three screws in each large upright and two in the smaller front support4 ,assemble with glue and #a-a_/b ,no4 #h flat-head screws at all places except where the cross slats are held4 ,at these points #a ,no4 #h flat-head screws will be long enough4 ,it will be noticed1 in examining the top and front views1 that the supporting uprights are not placed directly half way between the edges of the skis1 but are offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of the runner4 ,this is done so that the screw will not come in the groove4 ,two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes1 to which the rope is attached1 are made from #a_/b material1 #a-a_/b square4 ,two holes are bored in these blocks1 as shown1 and they are attached eight inches from the front end of the runner with #c_/d ,no4 #f round-head screws4 ,a screw eye is placed in each block1 of a size sufficient to receive a #c_/h rope4 ,it is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first1 in order to prevent splitting the block4 ,a suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing4 ,two coats of paint should be applied4 ,,doll ,,sleigh4 ,while this drawing 7,plate #eg71 to all intents and purposes details a doll sleigh1 yet by increasing the dimensions slightly the sleigh will be suitable for a small child4 ,first1 make the runners of #a_/b spruce1 or other suitable wood1 cutting them #i wide by #bf long4 ,on the upper edge measure back #a-a_/b and from this point draw to the corner of the lower edge4 ,saw to this line and slightly round the corners1 as shown4 ,with the dividers set at a radius of #d-a_/b1 strike a circle very lightly on the opposite end of the runners1 so that it will be just tangent to the edges and end of the board4 ,measure up from the lower edge of the runner #g-a_/b and draw a line parallel to it until it strikes the circle4 ,cut to this line and also saw to the curve of the circle1 forming the outline of the runner4 ,finish to the line with a chisel and file4 ,see that the two runners are exact duplicates4 ,bevel slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to flare4 ,illustration3 ,the ,doll ,sleigh may be made larger to carry a baby brother or sister4 ,next make the sleigh bottom #a_/b #aj #af-a_/b4 ,two braces1 to go below the sleigh bottom1 are made #a_/b #c #h-a_/b4 ,these braces are cut at an angle at each end1 as shown4 ,the angle is obtained by measuring in #c_/h on one edge and drawing to the opposite lower corner from this point and sawing to the line4 ,the sides of the sleigh are made #a_/b #h #bb4 ,on the top edge measure in #g-c_/d and place a dot4 ,measure down from the right-hand lower corner of the sides #d-a_/b and from this point1 draw to the right-hand upper corner4 ,from the left-hand lower corner measure in #a-c_/d and place a dot4 ,from the same corner measure up on the left-hand edge six inches and make another dot4 ,connect these two dots to form the slope of the front end4 ,from the last dot placed1 square a line in from the left-hand edge #a-c_/d long4 ,from this point sketch a free-hand curve1 as is shown in the side view of the sleigh 7,plate #eg7 to the point first located on the upper edge4 ,cut to the outline1 being sure both sides match4 ,the front edge of the sleigh is made #a_/b #f #aa and the rear end #a_/b #i #aa-a_/b4 ,on the lower edge of the rear end measure in #a-e_/h from each corner and draw to the upper opposite corners4 ,saw and plane to these lines4 ,this will give the taper of the rear end4 ,place the board from which the front is to be cut on the backboard and trace the slope of the sides and carefully finish to the line4 ,the two handles are made #g_/h #a-a_/d #bc-a_/b1 and the top piece1 or grip1 #a #a-a_/d #ai4 ,the uprights are mortised into the grips #e_/h1 as shown on the drawing4 ,holes are bored in the center of the curve of the runners with a medium-size drill1 and at these points an inch dowel is cut long enough to fit snugly between the runners1 after the sleigh is assembled4 ,the ends of the dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the runners4 ,this dowel is held with glue and #a-a_/b ,no4 #aj round-head screws4 ,holes are bored1 where indicated in the side view 7,plate #eg71 to hold the brace in place4 ,holes are also bored in the handles to attach to the body of sleigh at places most convenient4 ,holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the same to the cross braces1 using #a ,no4 #f flat-head screws4 ,use #a-a_/d ,no4 #h round-head screws on the outside of the runners4 ,the handles are attached with #c_/af #a-a_/b round-head stove bolts4 ,all other parts should be secured with glue and three-penny fine finish nails4 ,if desired the bottom of the runners may be covered with #a_/b strap iron4 ,various finishes may be used after the parts are thoroughly sanded4 ,if stain is to be the finish1 apply it according to the directions in the front of the book and1 after drying eight or ten hours1 apply two coats of shellac4 ,sand between coats with ,no4 #j sandpaper4 ,after the last coat of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar varnish4 ,illustration3 ,plate #eg4 ,,doll',s ,,sleigh ,if paint is to be used as the finishing material1 decide on the color scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat white1 after which one or two finish coats may be applied when dry1 sanding lightly between each coat4 ,,child',s ,,table4 ,this is a very useful and practical problem and has been made up in large numbers by seventh and eighth grade boys4 ,the chair shown in ,plate #ei fits compactly under the table and takes up but little room4 ,the top is joined by gluing several boards together and finishes #cj in diameter4 ,basswood1 #g_/h thick1 is very good material to use4 ,the boards must be carefully jointed and held together with #a_/b dowels4 ,hot glue is the best to use1 although the cold glue will answer4 ,leave the pieces in the clamps overnight4 ,the top may be cut to shape with a turning saw and finished to the line with a sharp chisel and file4 ,the four legs are #g_/h #a-c_/h #bj-c_/h4 ,two cleats1 which are screwed to the underside of the table1 are next made1 these being #g_/h #c #bd4 ,these cross each other in the middle with a middle lap joint1 as indicated at ,a1 on the drawing4 ,a notch is cut on the ends of these braces at ,c1 as shown1 to receive the legs4 ,the legs are held in place with glue and #a-c_/d ,no4 #aj round-head blue screws4 ,illustration3 ,children's ,table and ,chairs4 ,the braces are attached to the top of the table with a sufficient number of #a-a_/d ,no4 #h flat-head screws to insure a strong job4 ,the legs are notched #c_/h deep1 #g up from the bottom1 to receive the lower leg braces4 ,see sketch ,b1 ,plate #eh4 ,these lower braces are #c_/d #a-c_/h #bc1 joined at their center with a middle lap joint1 the same as the top braces1 and are held in the notch in the legs with glue and #a-a_/b round-head screws4 ,illustration3 ,plate #eh4 ,,child',s ,,table ,all parts should be carefully sandpapered1 first with ,no4 #a sandpaper and then finished with ,no4 #j4 ,the final finish is optional4 ,it may be stained and varnished or it may be finished in enamel4 ,if enamel is used there should first be a couple of coats of flat white applied1 each coat being sanded when dry1 with ,no4 #j sandpaper1 and the final coat of enamel applied4 ,some appropriate design1 in a grayed color1 may be put on with stencil if desired4 ,,child',s ,,chair4 ,plate #ei gives directions for making the chairs to match the table in ,plate #eh4 ,the rear legs should first be cut out of #g_/h stock1 #a-a_/h wide and #be long4 ,the two connecting rails are #a-a_/h #i-e_/h4 ,the lower rail is notched into both front and rear legs1 #f from the lower ends1 #c_/h deep4 ,the upper rail1 on which the seat rests1 is notched in #c_/h deep1 and #d above the lower rail4 ,the pieces so far completed may now be sanded and assembled1 using glue and #a-a_/b ,no4 #aj round-head screws4 ,it is well to reinforce the joints by driving an eight-penny finish nail each side of the screws4 ,these should be set below the surface1 and the hole should be filled with hard beeswax before painting4 ,while this is drying1 the front and rear rails can be made4 ,these rails1 five in number1 are all #g_/h #a-a_/h #h-a_/d4 ,the wide back rail is made of #a_/b material1 #d-a_/b wide by #h-a_/d long4 ,holes should next be bored for the various screws1 where indicated on the drawing4 ,a cross cleat1 which runs between the upper side rails and helps support the seat1 is made #g_/h #c #h-a_/d4 ,this is attached1 as shown in the sketch of the joinery of the legs and rails1 and is screwed to the under side of the seat with #a-a_/d ,no4 #h flat-head screws4 ,the seat is made #g_/h #aj #aa-a_/b and is notched at the corners to receive the rear legs4 ,the top is rounded slightly on its rear edges4 ,next assemble the two sides with glue and screws of proper size1 as shown4 ,all surfaces should be carefully sanded and the finish should be treated as described for the table4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ei4 ,,child',s ,,chair 7,to match table on preceding plate7 ,,index ,adapting the ,problem to the ,boy's ,ability1 #ae ,bean ,bag ,game1 #gb-d ,bench ,hook1 #bb-d ,camel1 #ch ,child's ,cart1 #ic-e2 ,chair1 #acj-a2 ,dump ,wagon1 #ie-i2 ,snow ,shovel1 #df-g2 ,step ,ladder1 #ei-fc2 ,table1 #abh-cj2 ,wash ,bench1 #eg-i2 ,wheelbarrow 7,type ,a71 #ii-ajc1 7,type ,b71 #ajb-e ,clown ,running ,wheel1 #aje-i ,cock ,horse1 #aji-aj ,colonial ,doll's ,chair1 #ff-g2 ,cradle1 #hg-i2 ,table1 #fd-f ,coping ,saw ,work1 #bf-g ,darts1 #ge-g ,dart ,board ,game1 #gd-f ,dippy ,duck1 #dj-a ,doll's ,bed1 #hi-ia2 ,clothes ,rack1 #ee-g2 ,cradle1 #hd-g2 ,ironing ,board 7,size ,a71 #di-ea1 7,size ,b71 #ea-c1 7,size ,c71 #ec-e2 ,sleigh1 #abe-h2 ,table with ,drawer1 #fb-d ,dowel ,sticks1 #bg ,duck1 #cj ,elephant1 #cc ,equipment1 #ac-d ,finish and ,color1 #ae-g ,five ,post ,ring ,toss1 #fh-gb ,goat1 #cf ,goose1 #ca ,history of ,toy-,making1 #aa-c ,kiddie ,kar1 #aac-ae2 ,koaster1 #aaf-ai ,lamb1 #ce ,laying ,out ,work1 #ad ,merrimac1 #dd-e ,method of ,bending ,runners1 #aba-b2 of ,enlarging ,figures1 #ci-dj2 of ,jointing ,wood1 #ah-bj ,monitor1 #db-c ,pelican1 #bi ,periscope1 #dg-h ,picture ,puzzle ,construction1 #bg-h ,rabbit1 #cd ,rhinoceros1 #cb ,ring-,the-,hook ,game1 #fh-i ,rocking ,rooster1 #aaa-ac ,rooster1 #cg ,sand or ,water ,mill1 #hb-d ,simple ,tool ,sharpening1 #bd-f ,ski ,skippers1 #abb-e ,ski ,skooter1 #aai-bb ,staining1 #ag-h ,support to be ,held in ,vise1 #bj-b2 for ,holding ,coping ,saw ,work1 #bj2 for ,table ,use1 #bb ,transferring a ,design1 #ad-e ,two ,types of ,stilts1 #ia-c ,wind ,mill1 #gg-hj2 7,type ,b7 #hj-b ,transcriber's ,note4 ,the equals sign has been used to show 'bold' in this etext4 ,a few minor typographical errors were amended4 heighth changed to height4 ,sonnenburg changed to ,sonnenberg ,title of ,plate illustrations were taken from drawings with inconsistent punctuation and this was systematised4