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,item_/vudl3#bfiadf   ,transcriber's    
note3        ,text enclosed by          
underscores is in italics 7italics74    
,text enclosed by equal signs is in bold
 face 7bold74      ,,how ,,to ,,make    
,,electrical ,,machines4  ,containing   
full directions for making electrical   
machines1 induction coils1 dynamos1 and 
many novel toys to be worked by         
electricity4  by  ,r4 ,a4 ,r4 ,,bennett4
  ,fully ,illustrated4        ,new ,york
 ,frank ,tousey1 ,publisher #bd ,union  

,square  ,entered according to ,act of  
,congress1 in the year #aijj1 by ,frank 
,tousey1 in the ,office of the          
,librarian of ,congress at ,washington1 
,d4 ,c4     ,how to ,make ,electrical   
,machines4     ,how to ,make a ,simple  
,electrical ,machine4   ,i propose to   
describe a method of making an          
electrical machine of small dimensions1 
but capable of performing all the       
experiments that are likely to be       
required of it4  ,illustration3 ,,fig   
#a4--;,,back ,,of ,,rubber1 ,,showing   
,,position ,,of ,,hole4  ,for the stand 
of the machine take a piece of wood     
7deal will do1 but mahogany would be    
preferable7 #ad inches in length1 #h    
inches in breadth1 and #e_/h inch in    
thickness4 ,to the bottom of this fasten
 two more pieces of the same wood1 #a   
inches broad1 #h inches long1 and #e_/h 
inch in thickness at opposite ends1 so  
that the edges are flush with the board4
 ,this forms our stand1 on which we now 
proceed to erect the machine4 ,take     

another piece of the same wood1 #g      
inches long by #b broad1 and #g_/h inch 
thick and fasten it firmly by four      
screws at the ends to the base board at 
a distance of half an inch from one end 
of its length and in the center of its  
breadth4  ,we now take two pieces of    
wood #ad inches long by #b inches broad 
and  inch thick1 and fasten them upright
 to the opposite sides in the center of 
the piece just fixed to the board4 ,they
 must be fixed very firmly to it with   
several screws1 as they have to bear a  
severe strain while the machine is      
worked4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4      
,,diagram ,,showing ,,position ,,of     
,,plate ,,and ,,rubbers4  ,if the reader
 can dovetail the ends into the cross   
board they will be held much more       
firmly4 ,at the top of these pieces     
another piece of wood1 #c inches square 
by #c_/h inch thick1 is fastened by     
screws into the upright pieces1 so as to
 hold all firmly together4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4--,,sectional  

,,diagram ,,of ,,conductor4  ,the       
framework of the machine is now         
complete1 and we have to provide the    
glass plate from which the electricity  
is to be produced4 ,as we cannot make   
this we must apply to an electrician for
 it4 ,this is #aj inches in diameter4   
,if the maker is good at1 and has       
appliances for1 working in brass on a   
small scale1 he can make the axle       
himself by taking a piece of brass rod  
inch in diameter and #c inches long and 
fastening the glass plate in the center4
  ,this can be done by providing two    
circular caps of brass one and one-half 
inches in diameter 7the side of which   
next the glass must be covered with     
cloth to prevent cracking the glass71   
and fastening one by solder or          
otherwise1 on one side of the plate1 the
 other being arranged to screw up       
tightly on the other side1 by having the
 brass turned into a screw1 and the     
center hole of the cap made with a      
flange to fit it4 ,if this is beyond the

 reader1 he must be contented with a    
less elaborate axle of wood instead of  
brass1 and two wooden caps which can be 
firmly fastened to the axle and glued to
 the opposite sides of the glass plate  
with ,prout's elastic glue1 which can be
 bought from any harnessmaker4  ,if this
 is used care must be taken in warming  
the glass not to render the glue too    
soft to hold it firmly when turned by   
the handle4 ,to turn the axle it must be
 provided with a handle of wood1 in the 
case of the wooden axle1 or1 in the case
 of the brass one1 a handle is made by  
turning the projecting end of the axle  
into a screw and fitting to it a piece  
of flat brass three and one-half inches 
by one-half inch by one-eighth inch1    
this latter piece having another piece  
of brass rod three and one-half inches  
long fixed to the other end1 on which a 
wooden handle is fixed 7by a cap        
fastened at the end of the rod7 so as to
 turn freely4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4    
#d4--,,shape ,,of ,,brass ,,rod ,,to    

,,collect ,,the ,,electricity4  ,the    
glass plate having been thus mounted1 we
 must turn our attention to the rubbers 
which generate the electricity on the   
plate4 ,to make these take four pieces  
of wood #c inches by #b inches by #c_/h 
inch1 and on one side of them fix pieces
 of thick flannel 7which you can get    
nearly  inch in thickness7 of the same  
size1 and cover these over with black   
silk1 gluing it down lightly to the     
wood1 so as to form a thick cushion on  
one side of it4 ,these four cushions    
have now to be fixed so as to be firmly 
pressed against the glass plate while it
 turns4 ,this can be done by fastening  
them at the backs by screws to the      
upright pieces supporting the plate1 or 
by gluing four small pieces of wood     
about #a_/h inch thick1 and square in   
shape1 to the inside of the supports4   
,the rubbers then have four holes cut in
 their backs to fit these pieces of     
wood1 on which they slide when placed on
 the side of the glass1 and are thus    

held firmly in position4 ,fig4 #a shows 
the position of the holes on the backs  
of the rubbers4 ,the latter plan is the 
best for fastening the rubbers1 as it   
allows them to be removed at any time   
for warming 7a very essential point7 or 
spreading fresh amalgam on them4 ,fig4  
#b shows the position of the plate and  
rubbers when in their places4           
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #e4--,,sectional  
,,diagram ,,showing ,,position ,,of     
,,collectors ,,and ,,plate4  ,we now    
have the means for procuring            
electricity1 but the method of          
collecting it has yet to be provided4   
,to make this a conductor must be formed
 by cutting a piece of wood to the shape
 of ,fig4 #c4 ,it should be about #f    
inches from end to end1 and must be     
carefully rounded so that no projections
 are left on it4 ,it must then be       
covered carefully with tinfoil 7which   
can be obtained from a chemist71 the    
tinfoil being glued down as smoothly as 
possible4 ,from the end of this         

conductor a piece of brass rod should be
 fixed1 shaped as shown in ,fig4 #d4 ,a 
piece about #ab inches long will be     
wanted4 ,this must be bent at the ends1 
so that when the conductor is mounted on
 a stand consisting of a piece of glass 
rod #f inches high1 fixed to the center 
of the stand 7that is #e inches from the
 opposite end to that at which the      
supports are71 the glass plate revolves 
between two surfaces of the brass rod4  
,fig4 #e explains the arrangement1 which
 is somewhat complicated to describe4   
,the glass rod should be about #g inches
 long1 to allow of half an inch being   
inserted into a hole in the center of   
the conductor1 which is thus supported  
#f inches high from the stand4          
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4--,,the        
,,machine ,,when ,,finished4  ,it now   
only remains to fasten several small    
pieces of brass wire about a quarter of 
an inch long1 filed to a point1 to the  
sides of the rod nearest the glass      
plate1 as shown in ,fig4 #f1 so that the

 plate revolves between a double row of 
points1 which can be done with solder1  
and the machine is complete4 ,the       
conductor can further be improved by    
inserting at the opposite end a small   
piece of brass rod two and a half inches
 high1 surmounted by a brass ball1 which
 is useful in some experiments4 ,care   
must be taken that the tinfoil of the   
conductor overlaps the brass rod at     
either end1 and thus forms a metallic   
connection4 ,if this is not done the    
conductor will not become charged       
sufficiently4 ,if the conductor can be  
made of brass it will work better still1
 as a metallic connection is then       
insured4 ,the conductor can be fastened 
to the glass rod on which it is         
supported by ,prout's elastic glue1 or  
other cement1 a hole being made in the  
center of the bottom of the conductor1  
and another in the stand of the machine 
for opposite ends of the glass rod4     
,the machine having been constructed1 a 
few words will be useful in how to work 

it4 ,warmth and dryness are1 above all  
things1 essential4 ,if the air of the   
room is damp it will be nearly          
impossible to obtain any result4 ,before
 working1 the glass plate must be       
thoroughly warmed1 taking care not to   
crack it1 by being placed endwise before
 a good fire4 ,a silk handkerchief is a 
useful adjunct to the machine4  ,the    
glass plate should be wiped quite free  
from dirt1 and the glass support of the 
conductor must also be wiped1 the       
handkerchief being made very hot4 ,the  
rubbers must be taken off 7if           
constructed so as to be movable1 as     
described71 and placed before the fire  
till quite hot4 ,their powers may be    
enormously increased by covering them   
with amalgam1 as sold in the electrical 
shops1 but a far better plan is to cover
 the cushions with tinfoil1 which can be
 glued right round the rubbers and over 
the backs4 ,this will need renewing at  
intervals1 as the plate in turning wears
 it out4  ,now1 when the rubbers are    

quite hot and all the glass of the      
machine is dry and hot 7this is         
necessary1 because1 if damp1 the        
electricity would escape without        
producing any effect71 the rubbers are  
put into their proper places on each    
side of the glass1 and on turning the   
handle 7which will be rendered easier if
 the machine is firmly clamped to the   
table7 and approaching the knuckle to   
the conductor1 a succession of brilliant
 sparks will be emitted from the        
conductor4 ,if this does not happen     
either the glass or some part of the    
machine is damp1 or the machine is not  
put together quite correctly1 and must  
be examined to find out the fault4  ,a  
machine of the size described should    
give a spark an inch long when working  
properly4 ,a great number of experiments
 may be performed with this machine with
 apparatus capable of being made at     
home4 ,i give a final illustration      
7,fig4 #f7 to show how the machine looks
 when completed4     ,how to ,make an   

,induction ,coil4   ,illustration  ,to  
most boys electricity offers many       
attractions1 and as ,i have recently    
constructed an induction coil out of    
materials which are cheap and easily    
obtained1 ,i think ,i shall confer a    
benefit on many readers if ,i give them 
a short description of how this was     
accomplished1 so that if like-minded    
they can proceed in the same way4       
,induction coils may be used for medical
 and scientific purposes as well as for 
amusement1 so that a good deal of work  
comes within their scope4 ,an induction 
coil is composed principally of two     
portions--one is the primary coil1 the  
other the secondary4 ,it is the         
secondary coil that gives the spark1 and
 on the length of this depends the power
 of the coil2 in some instruments for   
scientific purposes it is composed of a 
wire nearly #cjj miles long--but we are 
not going to soar to such heights as    
that6  ,to make the coil itself you want
 an ounce of ,no4 #bd cotton-covered    

wire1 and two or three ounces of ,no4   
#cf4 ,this can be bought from an        
electrical supply dealer4 ,if you are   
very ambitious1 silk-covered wire can be
 used2 this gives better effect1 the    
insulation being more complete4         
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4--;,,front     
,,disc4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4          
#b4--;,,back ,,disc4  ,to form the      
groundwork of the apparatus take a piece
 of mahogany about half an inch in      
thickness and polish it up to look      
ornamental2 it should be about #d inches
 by #f inches for the sized coil ,i am  
describing4 ,we now take another piece  
of mahogany about  inch thick1 and from 
it cut two circular pieces about #a inch
 in circumference2 these are to form the
 ends of the coil2 they must each have a
 hole #c_/h inch in diameter drilled in 
the center for the ends of the core to  
pass through4 ,in one of them1 which is 
to form the coil1 two much smaller holes
 are drilled with a small bradawl to    
allow the ends of the primary coil to   

pass through 7,fig4 #a72 in the other   
two similar holes are drilled further   
from the center for the ends of the     
secondary coil 7,fig4 #b74 ,this having 
been done1 we proceed to form the core1 
and this being the most important part  
of the instrument1 it must be made with 
great care4 ,take a length of fine iron 
wire 7annealed7 and cut it into pieces  
#b inches long4  ,now take a brass tube 
of the same size internally as the      
center holes in the ends of the coil    
were made 7#c_/h inch7 and push as many 
pieces of wire into it as are required  
to pack it as full as it will hold4 ,the
 next thing to do is to take another    
piece of wire and wind it as tightly as 
possible round the ends of the wires1   
pulling them gradually out of the tube  
as you wind1 until they are entirely    
out1 by which time a compact bundle of  
iron wire will have been formed4 ,now   
file the ends of the core thus formed1  
quite smooth1 with a fine file1 and drop
 the whole of it1 wire and all1 into the

 hottest part of a fire4 ,leave it there
 till it is bright red hot all through1 
and then rake it out and bury it        
completely in the ashes under the grate4
 ,if this can be done over night1 and   
the coil left to get cold as the fire   
goes out1 instead of being placed in the
 ashes1 so much the better1 as the      
object is to cool it as gradually1 and  
thus make it as soft as possible4       
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4--;,,core ,,and
 ,,discs4  ,when it has become perfectly
 cold take some paraffin wax and melt it
 in a dish4 ,when thoroughly melted1    
heat the core again gently1 and put it  
into the melted wax4 ,leave it there for
 a short time till it is thoroughly     
saturated with the melted wax1 then take
 it out and hold it above the dish to   
let the melted paraffin run back into   
it4 ,when cold you may remove the       
binding wire1 and the wax will be found 
to hold all the pieces together in a    
solid lump4 ,the two pieces of wood must
 now be fixed one at each end of the    

core 7the holes being the same size as  
the bore of the brass tube1 the core    
should fit into them quite tight71 one  
of them 7the front7 being pushed a      
little distance over the core1 so as to 
leave about  of an inch of the core     
projecting from it1 the other one only  
being pushed on sufficiently far to make
 the end of the coil flush with the wood
 7,fig4 #c74  ,take a sheet of thin     
notepaper and cut a piece exactly the   
width of the coil1 and long enough to   
pass twice round it4 ,wind it tightly   
round1 and fasten it1 if necessary1 with
 a little paraffin4 ,now the wire has to
 be wound on over the paper1 the        
thickest first1 to form the primary     
coil4 ,pass about three inches of one   
end of it through one of the holes in   
the disc forming the front of the coil1 
and then wind it evenly on the core1    
taking care that each coil is separate  
from its neighbor1 and that no two coils
 fall one upon the other4  ,when the    
wire has reached the other end of the   

core1 wind it back again over the first 
layer till it reaches the end it came in
 at1 then pass it through the other hole
 and cut it off about three inches from 
the hole2 the wire cut off will be      
wanted for other purposes4 ,the         
secondary coil has now to be wound over 
the primary1 first of all saturating the
 cotton with which the latter is covered
 by pouring melted paraffin over it with
 a spoon4 ,all the secondary wire will  
be wanted2 it must be wound layer above 
layer exactly as the primary was1 first 
passing about three inches of the end   
through one of the holes in the disc at 
the back of the core4 ,a thickness of   
notepaper should be put on between the  
primary and secondary coils4 ,everything
 depends on the complete insulation of  
one coil from another1 and this is      
accomplished by means of the notepaper  
and cotton1 saturated with melted wax in
 subsequent operations4 ,when the whole 
of the secondary wire is wound on except
 about three inches1 pass the end       

through the other hole in the disc4  ,in
 order to make sure that the wire has   
not been broken in the winding1 which   
would entirely destroy the action of the
 instrument1 the two ends of the coils  
should be joined separately with a      
battery and galvanometer4 ,if the needle
 is deflected on joining the circuit the
 wire is all right4 ,this is rather     
important1 as it is extremely vexatious1
 when all the different parts have been 
adjusted1 to find that the coil will not
 work owing to a fracture of the wire1  
which necessitates the whole coil being 
unwound before it can be discovered4 ,if
 the galvanometer is not at hand we must
 take our chance2 the greatest possible 
care must be taken in winding the       
secondary wire1 as this thin wire is    
extremely brittle4 ,the insulation must 
now be improved by plunging the whole   
coil into a deep vessel large enough to 
contain it1 which is full of melted     
paraffin4 ,this must be placed near the 
fire1 so as to keep the wax melted1 and 

the coils must be left in it to soak for
 an hour or two4 ,when the paraffin has 
thoroughly permeated through it it can  
be taken out and held above the vessel  
to drain4 ,if all the wax does not run  
off the ends they can be scraped        
afterward1 taking care not to cut the   
wires4 ,the appearance of the coil is   
vastly improved by a strip of velvet cut
 the right width1 which can be drawn    
tightly and sewn in position2 or the    
coil may be covered with a varnish made 
by dissolving red sealing-wax in spirits
 of wine by the aid of a gentle heat4   
,the coil part of the instrument is now 
complete1 and ready to be affixed to the
 base-board by means of two small screws
 passing through it into the discs when 
placed in the proper position 7see ,fig4
 #f47  ,we now approach a very important
 and rather intricate piece of          
workmanship4 ,it is necessary1 in order 
that shocks should be obtained from the 
coil1 that the current in the primary   
wire should be stopped and started again

 at the rate of several hundred times   
per minute1 and the more quickly the    
contact between the battery wire and the
 primary coil is made and unmade the    
more powerful the shock4 ,in order to   
accomplish this a contact-breaker       
becomes necessary1 the method of making 
which is as follows3  ,illustration3    
,,fig4 #d4--;,,hammer ,,of              
,,contact-,,breaker4  ,a piece of sheet 
brass is taken #a inches long by about  
#c_/h of an inch at one end1 gradually  
tapered up till it comes to a point     
about #a_/h of an inch broad at the     
other2 it must be very thin1 and must   
act as a spring when fastened tightly at
 one end4 ,a small piece of soft iron is
 soldered to the small end of this to be
 attracted by the core when working4    
,the next thing is to fasten a small    
piece of platinum foil about  of an inch
 square on the opposite side of the     
brass to the soft iron1 and a little    
below it 7,fig4 #d74 ,this is rather a  
difficult operation1 as it is such a    

small object to solder1 and the best way
 is to get it done by a tinsmith1 unless
 you are skilled in the use of the      
soldering bit4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4   
#e4--,,screw ,,of ,,contact-,,breaker4  
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4--,,plan ,,of  
,,coil ,,complete4  ,a narrow strip of  
stout brass is now taken and bent at    
right angles near one end1 so that when 
screwed down to the base-board by holes 
in the smallest leg the longest leg will
 stand upright4 ,stand it up on the base
 in front of the coil and note a point  
on the strip exactly opposite the core4 
,make a hole through this point large   
enough to admit a small screw used on   
paper fasteners4 ,now take the flange   
part of the paper-fastener and solder it
 to the back of the brass strip1 so that
 the screw will work through both 7,fig4
 #e74 ,this is done to avoid the trouble
 of making a flange in the strip1 but if
 you can do this1 so much the better4   
,now1 the coil having been fastened to  
the base by fine screws through it into 

the ends of the reel1 nearly in the     
center of the base1 we must find a place
 on the base in a straight line with the
 end of the core 7as at ,c1 ,fig4 #f71  
and here we fasten another piece of bent
 brass similar to the last4 ,the end of 
the contact breaker is now soldered to  
this brass strip in such a way that the 
piece of soft iron at the other end is  
exactly opposite the core and about     
#a_/af inch distant from it4 ,the screw 
of the paper fastener must now be tipped
 with platinum by cutting off the end   
and drilling a fine hole in it1 in which
 hole a small piece of platinum wire can
 be soldered4 ,the amount of wire and   
foil required1 although very minute1    
will cost you about twenty-five cents1  
platinum being a very expensive         
substance4 ,it can be bought from a     
chemist or electrician4  ,the screw     
having been prepared in this way1 we    
must next fasten the brass strip to     
which the flange is soldered upright on 
the base1 so that the platinum point of 

the screw1 when inserted1 will just come
 in contact with the square of foil on  
the spring4 ,by turning the head of the 
screw the soft iron can thus be forced  
nearer the core1 and the rapidity of its
 vibration is thus controlled4 ,the coil
 is now complete1 except the            
connections1 which are made 7preferably 
underneath the base by letting the wires
 through7 by joining the ends of the    
thin wire to two binding screws1 which  
are made for this purpose and can be    
obtained from the dealer4 ,one end of   
the thick wire of the coil is fastened  
to the strip of brass supporting the    
contact-breaker1 the other end is       
fastened to a binding-screw on one side 
of the base--the strip of brass         
supporting the screw being connected by 
a wire with another binding-screw on the
 other side4 ,this sounds rather        
intricate1 but will easily be understood
 if we consider that the current from   
the battery when the wires are connected
 with the binding-screw must pass       

through the brass strip to the screw1   
thence through the contact-breaker to   
the coil1 and1 having passed round the  
coil1 back to the battery through the   
binding-screw attached to the other end 
of the wire4 7,see ,fig4 #f47  ,it is   
now evident that when the               
contact-breaker is in contact with the  
screw a current will pass through the   
primary coil1 and will cause the soft   
iron core to become a magnet and thus   
attract the soft iron4 ,when this moves 
towards the magnet1 contact is broken   
and the core is instantly demagnetized1 
so that the spring flies back and       
contact is made again4 ,the screw is    
adjusted so that the contact is broken  
just as the soft iron touches the core4 
,when the battery is joined on1 the     
contact-breaker will fly backwards and  
forwards with tremendous speed1 making a
 loud1 buzzing noise1 while brilliant   
sparks will appear between the platinum 
wire and foil4  ,in order to feel the   
effect of the shock1 two handles will be

 required2 these can be made by simply  
bending two pieces of tin about two     
inches by four inches round a ruler and 
neatly soldering the joins4 ,a wire is  
now fastened to the end of each tube1   
the other ends being inserted in the    
binding screws connected with the thin  
wire of the secondary coil1 which are at
 the opposite corners of the base to    
those which are joined to the ends of   
the primary coil4 ,when the coil is     
buzzing1 if these handles are tightly   
held1 a powerful shock will be felt1 in 
fact1 a weak battery only should be used
 with the coil of the dimensions given1 
or it may be impossible to release the  
handles1 and this is too strong to be   
pleasant4  ,the current can be regulated
 by means of a regulating tube1 that is 
simply a brass tube which is made to    
slip over the core between it and the   
primary coil2 the farther the tube is   
pushed over the core1 the less powerful 
the shock4 ,the dimensions of the coil  
being the same1 a little ingenuity will 

enable any one to affix a               
regulating-tube4 ,i will only say that  
instead of winding the coil direct on   
the core a tube of brown paper is formed
 a little larger than the core1 and on  
this the wire is wound4 ,between this   
tube and the core the brass tube is     
arranged to slip in and out1 the hole in
 the end of the reel farthest from the  
contact-breaker being made larger for   
its accommodation4  ,this concludes my  
description of the coil1 but perhaps a  
few hints as to suitable batteries may  
be useful4 ,if a strong battery which   
will only work the coil for a short time
 is required1 the bottle bichromate is a
 good one4 ,it can be bought from a     
dealer1 or one can be made in a simple  
form by taking a jar and filling it with
 a strong solution of bichromate of     
potassium1 to which a little sulphuric  
acid has been added4 ,take two pieces of
 gas carbon and three pieces of sheet   
zinc1 both cut to the right size to dip 
in the solution to the bottom of the    

jar4  ,at the top of the zincs and      
carbons bore small holes1 and below     
these place narrow strips of wood to    
keep them apart when in use2 these must 
be long enough to reach across the top  
of the jar when the zincs and carbons   
are in the solution4  ,arrange them     
thus3 zinc1 wood1 carbon1 wood1 zinc1   
wood1 carbon1 wood1 zinc2 bind them     
lightly together by means of two more   
pieces of wood placed outside the outer 
zincs1 and the whole tied together with 
string4 ,connect the three zincs        
together with one piece of wire1 and the
 two carbons with another1 taking care  
that the wire connecting the zincs1 does
 not come in contact with the wire      
connecting the carbons4 ,to one zinc    
attach a piece of covered wire1 and to  
one carbon attach another1 these two    
wires are connected with the binding    
screws of the primary coil4 ,this       
battery is extremely strong1 double as  
strong as the bottle bichromates sold1  
as there are more zincs and carbons     

employed1 but it only lasts a short time
 before needing to be replenished4      
,daniell's battery is a weaker form1 but
 lasts much longer1 say for two or three
 hours in constant work4 ,take a deep   
jar and inside it place a porous jar of 
earthenware1 which the electrician will 
provide4 ,now get a piece of sheet      
copper of the right size to go into the 
jar1 and bend it round so that the      
porous jar will go inside it4 ,a piece  
of sheet zinc will be wanted to go      
inside the porous jar4 ,both zinc and   
copper must be high enough to reach the 
level of the solutions when the jars are
 full4 ,the porous jar is filled with   
dilute sulphuric acid1 or solution of   
common salt2 the jar outside is filled  
with saturated solution of sulphate of  
copper--that is1 as strong as it can be 
made4 ,lumps of sulphate of copper are  
kept in the outer cell1 which will keep 
the solution concentrated by slowly     
dissolving4 ,attach one wire to the zinc
 and another to the copper1 and when    

these are joined to the binding screws  
of the primary coil the contact-breaker 
will begin buzzing4     ,how to ,make a 
,small ,dynamo4   ,,part ,i4  ,the      
dynamo is not the most simple piece of  
mechanism extant1 and ,i am inclined to 
think that many boys would find it      
rather a poser to make one4 ,at the same
 time it is perfectly evident that there
 are heaps of our readers who are very  
anxious indeed to try1 at all events1   
and as we must aim at more elaborate    
apparatus as we advance in electrical   
knowledge1 it is a pity not to endeavor 
to supply them with the help they need4 
,well1 then1 if1 like ,pears' soap baby1
 they won't be happy till they get it1  
,i will do my level best to bring down  
the subject into the range of their     
capability4 ,it will not cost them much 
to try the experiment1 and if they don't
 succeed they must not blame me1 but    
their vaulting ambition1 which has      
o'erleapt itself4 ,there is no reason   
whatever why a boy who is accustomed to 

metal working should not succeed in     
making the small machine described if he
 first masters the principles of its    
construction4  ,the advantage of a      
dynamo1 ,i may here remark1 is that by  
its means we are able to produce a      
current of voltaic electricity at any   
moment by turning a wheel without       
bothering with acids or carbons1 or     
zincs1 or any other of the various      
articles necessitated by the use of a   
battery4  ,furthermore1 the current goes
 on as long as you turn the wheel1 and  
stops directly you stop1 there being no 
loss between whiles4 ,of course1 both   
battery and dynamo have their advantages
 and disadvantages--nothing in this     
world being perfect all round--and for  
some purposes the dynamo is best1 for   
others the battery4 ,for example1 it    
would be absurd to use a dynamo to ring 
an electric bell--not that it would not 
do it with tremendous energy1 but in the
 case of a bell what one wants is merely
 to ring it for a few seconds at long   

intervals1 and for this work a battery  
in which there is little current1 but   
which is always ready to give that      
little without touching it1 is facile   
princeps4 ,but for experiments in which 
a strong continuous current is required1
 the dynamo comes to the front1 as there
 is no polarization to detract from its 
value1 as in the case of the battery4   
,one does not always want to be messing 
with chemicals in setting up a battery1 
when one only requires the current for a
 short time1 and the dynamo is always   
ready1 and merely turning the handle    
produces the required current in a      
moment4 ,besides this1 viewed merely in 
the light of a magneto-electric machine1
 it will give a considerable shock to   
any one who holds two handles fixed to  
its terminals4  ,having now enumerated  
the advantages of the machine1 it       
behooves me to endeavor to describe its 
various parts and the method of making  
them4 ,there are several methods of     
dynamo-making1 but that which seems to  

be the most used and most easily        
followed in the case of a small machine1
 is that of the type known as the       
,siemens dynamo1 from the inventor of   
the armature1 which is of peculiar      
construction4  ,the action of the dynamo
 depends on the fact that if a piece of 
soft iron is surrounded by a coil of    
insulated wire1 when the soft iron is   
approached to a magnet it becomes itself
 a magnet1 and at the same time a       
current is generated in the coil of     
insulated wire which surrounds it4 ,this
 current is1 however1 of only momentary 
duration1 and ceases if the soft iron   
remains stationary2 but on removing the 
soft iron from the magnet another       
current is generated in the coil of     
wire1 but this is a current of the      
opposite kind of electricity1 and       
travels in the opposite direction to    
that produced in the former case4 ,now  
you have only to imagine that1 by means 
of rotating in front of the poles of a  
magnet1 a piece of soft iron is kept    

continually approaching and receding    
from the magnet1 and that this soft iron
 is surrounded by wires in which        
circulate currents positive or negative 
according to the direction of the       
movement of the soft iron1 and then1 if 
we can arrange to carry off all the     
positive currents to one binding-screw1 
and all the negative currents to another
 binding-screw1 we shall have a         
continuous current generated as long as 
the soft iron revolves4 ,all this is    
practically carried out in the          
construction of the dynamo1 and on the  
accuracy with which it is done the      
efficiency of the dynamo depends4  ,to  
make the base of the machine1 take a    
piece of deal #e inches long by #c      
inches broad by #g_/h inch thick4 ,this 
can be stained afterwards to make it    
look nicer2 it must be planed well and  
polished up quite smooth4               
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4--,,sectional  
,,diagram ,,of ,,one ,,side ,,of        
,,magnet4  ,the greatest difficulty of  

the whole business has now already to be
 confronted--viz41 the manufacture of   
the magnet4 ,this is almost invariably  
cast in two pieces1 and for those who   
cannot make the castings there is no    
help for it but to have recourse to the 
ironmonger1 or1 better still1 a         
practical electrician4 ,the following   
instructions will then assist you to put
 the castings together3  ,supposing this
 difficulty to have been overcome1 and  
two pieces of soft iron to have been    
cast in the form of ,fig4 #a1 both      
exactly the same size and shape2 the    
next thing to do is to convert it into  
an electro-magnet by winding seven      
layers of ,no4 #af cotton covered wire  
over each leg1 at the part shown by the 
dotted lines in the illustration4  ,the 
size of the legs of the magnet is as    
follows3--,total length from ,b to ,c1  
#d #a_/h inches2 thickness of top piece 
from ,b to ,d1  inch2 length of top     
piece from ,b to ,d 7half total length  
of top of magnet71  inch2 breadth of    

side of magnet all the way down1 #a     
inch2 height from ,e to ,c1 #a inch2    
thickness of the part between ,d and ,e1
 round which the wire is wound1 #c_/h   
inch4 ,when ,i say breadth in this      
description1 ,i mean what you can't see 
in the sectional drawing1 because it    
recedes from you2 when ,i say thickness1
 ,i mean what is shown in the drawing4  
,it is necessary to explain this1 as the
 terms are rather confusing4 ,the ends  
of the sides between ,d and ,e are      
rounded to admit of the wire being more 
evenly wound on them4  ,illustration3   
,,fig4 #b4--,,magnet ,,put ,,together4  
,it is not essential to use a permanent 
magnet in this machine1 as a certain    
amount of residual magnetism remains in 
the iron when once excited2 and the     
coils of wire on the armature being     
acted on by the armature1 which is      
slightly magnetized by this residual    
magnetism in the magnet1 have a         
reactionary effect1 and excite the      
armature1 which excites the magnet      

afresh2 and thus the magnet and its     
coils1 and the armature and its coils1  
go on acting on each other1 and mutually
 building up each other's current1 until
 the maximum effect which the machine is
 capable of giving is produced4  ,before
 winding on the wire1 the legs of the   
magnet between ,d and ,e should be      
covered with a band of silk soaked in   
melted paraffin wax to increase the     
insulation4 ,new and soft wire1 of the  
highest conductivity1 should be used4   
,old1 rinky1 and hard wire will not do4 
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4--;,,armature  
,,of ,,dynamo4  ,the wire is wound upon 
the legs of the magnet in such a way    
that when put together as shown in ,fig4
 #b the coils are in opposite           
directions1 so that if the magnet were  
straightened out1 or the two portions   
placed end to end1 one coil would be a  
prolongation of the other4 ,this can be 
most easily done1 in the case of this   
particular magnet1 by winding each leg  
separately1 and the end of the outer    

coil of wire of one can be joined to the
 end of the inner coil of wire of the   
other at ,d in the cut1 the other ends  
of the coils being left loose as at ,e  
and ,f1 these being long enough to go   
down under the base--say1 about #c      
inches long to allow for joining up4    
,the electro-magnet having been wound1  
may now be placed upright on the base1  
its two limbs fastened together by a    
screw at ,a4 ,the magnet is now to be   
fastened to the base in the middle of   
its breadth1 and about an inch from one 
end1 by means of two screws at ,b and   
,c1 passing through the base into the   
legs of the magnet4 ,before it is       
fastened on1 however1 you had better    
drill two screw holes on each leg at ,h 
,h ,h ,h in the figure1 and four        
corresponding to them on the other side4
 ,we shall want eight screws to fit     
these holes presently4  ,illustration3  
,,fig4 #d4--,,section ,,of ,,end        
,,armature4  ,the magnet having been    
fixed1 we now have to construct the     

armature1 which is the next most        
important part of the machine4  ,this   
consists of a soft iron cylinder with an
 axle passing through its center1 as at 
,k ,l in the illustration 7,fig4 #c71 ,s
 ,s ,s ,s being the soft iron cylinder4 
,this cylinder has a deep groove cut    
from end to end1 or is cast in that     
shape1 and round this groove the wire is
 wound4 ,the wire is number #ah1 cotton 
or silk-covered4 ,begin at the point    
marked ,h in the diagram1 and wind over 
and over1 from end to end1 until that   
side is full2 then cross over to the    
other side1 going from ,h to ,r1 and    
wind that side also in the same         
direction4 ,the ends of the wire are    
shown at ,w ,w1 and they must be left   
about an inch or two inches long1 as we 
shall want to connect them with the     
commutator presently4  ,the dimensions  
of the armature are as follows3 ,length 
of axle1 #e inches2 circumference of    
cylinder1 #a inch2 length of cylinder1  
#b inches2 width of groove1  inch4 ,the 

axle is composed of a piece of steel rod
 rather more than #a_/h inch in         
diameter4 ,the axle must be very truly  
centered in the armature1 and the       
armature must be accurately mounted1 as 
it has to revolve at a high rate of     
speed in a very limited space1 between  
the poles of the magnet4  ,as it is     
rather difficult to explain the         
construction of the armature1 ,i give   
another illustration 7,fig4 #d7 of a    
section of the armature1 which will show
 how the wire is wound on the groove1   
and the shape of the grooves themselves4
  ,at one end of the axle is fixed the  
driving-pulley ,p1 while at the other   
has to be fixed a small wooden roller   
,f1 over which two pieces of sheet brass
 have been fastened1 each reaching      
nearly half round the surface of the    
roller1 so that two gaps are left       
between them4 ,this forms part of the   
commutator2 but before we come to that  
we must consider how the armature is to 
be fixed between the poles of the       

magnet4   ,,part ,,ii4  ,illustration3  
,,fig4 #e4--,,support ,,for ,,pulley    
,,end ,,of ,,axle4  ,returning to ,fig4 
#a1 we must see that the groove ,a1     
which forms half the channel in which   
the armature is to revolve1 is #g_/h    
inch semi-circle4 ,when the two sides   
are fixed together as in ,fig4 #b1 the  
hole between the poles should be about  
an inch in circumference1 and the wire  
must be wound on the armature so that it
 easily slips into the cavity ,g1 which 
must be made quite smooth for it to     
revolve in4 ,it will be seen from the   
dimensions given that in diameter the   
armature is only a little less than the 
cylindrical space between the poles of  
the magnet1 and in length it is about   
the same as the width of the magnet4 ,it
 would be an unfortunate occurrence if  
the wire was to slip off the armature   
while revolving at a high speed1 and    
therefore it is necessary to keep it    
firmly in its place4 ,this is done by   
filing four small notches in the soft   

iron of the armature at the points      
marked ,a ,b ,c ,d in ,fig4 #c4 ,some   
strong wire or small string is now wound
 lightly round the armature to hold the 
coils of wire in their proper place1 the
 notches holding this wire or string    
from slipping off at the ends of the    
cylinder4  ,the armature is now to be   
fixed in its proper place between the   
poles of the magnet4  ,illustration3    
,,fig4 #f4--,,support ,,for ,,commutator
 ,,end ,,of ,,axle4  ,to do this we     
shall want two supports for the axle4   
,these are made of brass1 shaped as in  
,figs4 #e and #f1 #e being the one at   
the pulley end of the axle1 and #f that 
at the other end4 ,they are fastened by 
screws through the holes ,p ,p1 into the
 holes ,h ,h ,h ,h in the bottom part of
 the side of the magnet1 as previously  
shown in ,fig4 #b4  ,when the armature  
is fixed in its proper place it will    
appear as ,fig4 #g1 this being a        
sectional diagram from above1 and the   
top pieces of the magnet being omitted  

for simplicity's sake4  ,illustration3  
,,fig4 #g4--;,,ground ,,plan ,,of       
,,magnet ,,and ,,armature ,,when ,,put  
,,together4  ,the brass of which the    
supports are made should be about #a_/h 
inch thick1 and must1 of course1 be     
drilled in the center with a hole to    
admit the axle of the armature4 ,to keep
 it exactly in the right place while    
revolving1 a piece of circular brass    
tube1 with a bore the size of the hole  
made to admit the armature1 should be   
soldered to the brass supports in front 
of the hole2 that for the pulley end of 
the axle should be  inch long4 ,one at  
the other end is not necessary1 but     
looks neater2 this may be about  inch   
long--i4 e4 as long as the end of the   
axle projecting beyond the brass        
support4  ,this much having been        
accomplished1 we have now to consider   
the commutator1 which is a piece of     
apparatus by which all the currents     
proceeding from magnet and armature are 
sent in one direction1 and thus1 instead

 of counteracting each other1 are made  
available for experiments4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #h4--,,pillar ,,of
 ,,commutator4  ,to make this necessary 
adjunct to the dynamo1 take a circular  
bar of brass rod about #c_/h inch in    
diameter and an inch long4 ,into the    
middle of this solder a brass screw by  
drilling a hole and inserting its upper 
end minus the head4 ,on this screw works
 a brass nut about #c_/h inch long4 ,at 
the other end of the rod a hole is      
drilled for the insertion of another    
brass screw1 long enough to go through  
the base4 ,another pillar precisely like
 this has now to be made1 only  inch    
high without the nut4 ,now cut two      
pieces of sheet brass #b inches long and
  inch broad1 sufficiently stout to act 
as springs and not too stout to be      
elastic4 ,at one end of each cut a      
longitudinal hole about  inch long and  
#a_/h inch broad2 that is to say1 this  
slit must be broad enough to slip over  
the top of the screws above the pillars4

 ,at the other ends of the brass springs
 slits of equal length1 but very        
narrow--only about #a_/bd inch wide--may
 be cut1 to make the brass more springy4
 ,on the under side of this end of one  
spring and the upper side of the other1 
two pieces of thin sheet copper are     
fixed1 the same breadth as the springs1 
and about  inch long4 ,these are        
soldered by one end to the side of the  
spring1 so as to act as springs         
themselves1 their other ends being free4
  ,all this being rather complicated1 we
 must invoke the aid of the engraver    
once more4 ,fig4 #h gives you the method
 of making the pillars--,a being the    
brass rod1 ,b the screw and ,c the nut1 
the hole to admit screw to fasten the   
pillar to the base is made at the end   
,d4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #i4--;,,brass
 ,,spring ,,of ,,commutator4  ,fig4 #i  
is the brass spring with slit1 ,a1 to   
slip over the screw of ,fig4 #h1 and the
 copper spring soldered to one side1 at 
the end1 at the point ,b4 ,now we slip  

the brass spring over the screw1 the    
screw coming through the slit1 and screw
 down the nut ,c4 ,we thus have two     
springs supported at the ends on pillars
 at a height of #a inch and  inch from  
the base respectively4 ,of course1 both 
the pillars and springs are treated     
alike1 but in the case of the tallest   
the copper is on the under side1 and in 
the other on the upper side4  ,now we go
 back to the armature1 on the axle of   
which you will remember that ,i told you
 to fix a small roller of wood4 ,this is
 only  inch long and  inch in diameter1 
and is fixed firmly to the axle so as to
 revolve along with the armature4 ,this 
roller is soaked in melted paraffin wax 
for an hour or two before fixing on1 or 
boiled in it for some time1 so that it  
may permeate the wood4 ,the roller can  
easily be turned 7of boxwood1           
preferably7 if you are possessed of a   
lathe1 but if you have none1 go to the  
nearest photographer 7or1 preferably1 a 
dealer in photographic apparatus71 and  

from him you can buy for #c cents a     
roller long enough to cut dozens for    
dynamos--they are what sensitized paper 
is sold rolled on4  ,the roller having  
been provided1 take a piece of brass    
tube exactly so large inside that the   
roller will fit tightly into it1 and cut
 off a piece the same length as the     
roller1 or1 if anything a trifle        
shorter4 ,you have now to cut1 with a   
saw or otherwise1 two diagonal lines in 
this tube lengthwise1 so that the tube  
is thereby divided into two pieces4     
,having done this the brass is replaced 
on the roller and fastened by minute    
screws1 or ,prout's elastic glue1 to    
each side of it1 so that the roller     
becomes practically one of brass1 with  
two slits in it4 ,the screws must not   
project above the brass1 but must be    
well sunk into it1 so as to leave the   
surface smooth3 and care must be taken  
that the screws do not touch both pieces
 of brass by going right through the    
roller--they must be very short4 ,the   

object of cutting the slits in a        
diagonal direction is that the springs  
when pressing above and below the roller
 7see ,fig4 #aj7 shall not leave one    
half of the commutator before resting on
 the other part4 ,if they do so the     
commutator will spark badly1 which      
injures the fittings1 and less current  
is obtained4 ,both slits are to be      
equidistant1 and both inclined in the   
same direction4 ,the roller is fixed on 
the axle in such a position that the    
middles of the lines of division are    
exactly in a line with the middle of the
 groove of the armature4 ,when all this 
has been accomplished you will obviously
 have two conducting surfaces1 each     
reaching over half the cylinder1        
separated by a small distance at top and
 bottom1 the paraffined wood1 of course1
 being a non-conductor of electricity4  
,the brass tube must be made to fit     
smoothly round the wood1 the surface    
being free from any irregularities1 so  
that the contact with the springs at the

 sides may be as perfect as possible4   
,care must be taken that the brass is   
really separate all down on both sides4 
,it is a good plan to fasten small      
splinters of paraffined wood in the     
slits to make sure4  ,this having been  
done1 the wire from one end of the coil 
of the armature must be soldered to one 
of the semi-circumferences 7if ,i may   
coin a word7 of brass on the wooden     
roller1 and the wire from the other end 
of the coil to the other                
semi-circumference4 ,this is done at the
 end or underneath1 not at the top1 or  
it will make the surface rough1 and we  
want it to be as smooth as it can       
possibly be4 ,the wire must be quite    
tight up to the end soldered on2 there  
must be no loops1 or it will catch in   
something and be torn off when it comes 
to revolve4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4      
#aj4--,,section ,,of ,,commutator ,,put 
,,together4  ,the brass pillars         
supporting the springs have now to be   
inserted in the base1 at such a         

distance1 one on each side of the roller
 covered with brass1 that the copper    
springs at the end of the brass ones are
 exactly one over and one under the     
brass roller4 ,of course1 if they are   
put in a line with it1 the springs can  
easily be shifted to the right position 
by slipping the slits over the screws of
 the pillars1 and screwing down the nuts
 lightly when they come to the right    
place4 ,this is very difficult to make  
intelligible1 and ,i give another       
illustration of the relative positions  
of the parts of the commutator which ,i 
hope will make all clear4 ,the pillars  
,p ,p--which were put together as shown 
in ,figs4 #h and #i--;are fixed at such 
distances on opposite sides of the      
roller ,r that the springs ,s ,s are    
continually in contact with the brass   
semi-circumferences1 first one and then 
the other as the armature revolves4  ,we
 are now within sight of the end of our 
task1 and to guide off the current that 
we are going to produce we must screw in

 two binding-screws at opposite corners 
of the same end of the base 7the end at 
which the commutator is74 ,the ends of  
the wire from the magnet are to be      
brought down through the base and joined
 to the under part of these             
binding-screws4 ,placing the base so    
that the commutator end of the armature1
 and not the pulley end1 is next to you1
 the wire from the inner coil of the    
magnet goes to the binding-screw on your
 left hand1 and that from the outer coil
 to that on your right hand4 ,the magnet
 should be wound and placed in such a   
position that these ends are            
respectively on the left and right1 and 
then they have only to be joined to the 
binding-screws in front of them4  ,but  
before connecting these wires up1 it is 
necessary to give an initial magnetism  
to the magnet1 which at present has not 
been magnetized at all6 ,to do this we  
must make use of another dynamo or a    
battery and connect the wires coming    
from the magnet-coil to the terminals of

 the battery4 ,this having been done1   
the magnet will attract iron filings or 
needles1 etc41 and this shows that it   
has really become a magnet4 ,two cells  
of the chloride battery will be enough  
to magnetize it as much as it can be    
magnetized1 and enough will remain when 
the battery is disconnected to start the
 action when the armature is revolved4  
,two or three minutes is long enough to 
connect with the battery4   ,,part      
,,iii4  ,while the current is passing   
you can try the following experiment1 to
 prove that the wire is wound on all    
right4 ,if it is not wound as described 
there will be two north poles or two    
south poles1 instead of one north and   
one south4 ,suppose we decide to make   
the leg on which the wire comes from the
 outside of the magnet the north pole1  
the wire from this must be joined to the
 wire coming from the zinc end of the   
battery1 and the other coming from the  
inside1 between the poles1 joined to the
 wire from the carbon end4 ,now if1     

while the current is passing1 a         
magnetized needle is approached to each 
pole consecutively1 and one end of it is
 attracted and the other repelled in    
each case1 the wire is all right2 if    
both are attracted something is wrong4  
,the needle must have been really       
magnetized beforehand1 or it will       
deceive you2 you can easily test if it  
is so with an ordinary permanent magnet4
  ,having magnetized the soft iron in   
the way described1 we now join up the   
wires to the binding screws1 under the  
base1 and1 the pulley being fixed on to 
the axle of the armature opposite to the
 commutator1 the machine is now ready   
for use4 ,to rotate the armature at a   
high speed it is necessary to connect   
the pulley by an endless band with a    
large1 heavy wheel which can be rotated 
by hand4  ,for continuous work1 as we   
cannot always be turning the wheel1 a   
small steam-engine or water-motor must  
be employed4 ,worked in this way1 the   
machine ,i have described can be made to

 light #b #e candle-power lamps of #f   
volts1 and give about #ab volts of      
current4 ,this is not much1 of course1  
but by enlarging the proportions of the 
various parts1 you can make as large a  
dynamo as you like2 only the power      
required to work it naturally increases 
considerably4 ,this machine will do a   
great deal of the work of a battery--for
 example it will run an induction coil  
or an electro motor at full power4 ,by  
connecting two brass handles to the     
binding-screws by wires1 you will get a 
powerful shock if you hold them while   
some one turns the wheel connected with 
the pulley2 in fact1 the shock is too   
powerful1 and the person turning the    
wheel must be prepared to stop when the 
victim has had enough4 ,if these handles
 are dipped into a glass of water       
slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid 
7to enable the current to pass more     
freely71 and the dynamo briskly turned1 
you will soon see bubbles rising from   
the handles--which must1 of course1 be  

placed separate from each               
other--consisting of oxygen and hydrogen
 gas1 into which the water is being     
decomposed by the force of the current4 
,water being composed of two quantities 
of hydrogen gas to every one of oxygen1 
it follows that double as much hydrogen 
will come off the handle which evolves  
it as will come off the other of oxygen1
 and this you will soon see to be the   
case2 the bubbles on the former being   
much more numerous than those on the    
latter4  ,now take a #e candle-power    
#f-volt electric lamp1 and fasten it on 
to the wires coming from the            
binding-screws 7removing the handles7 by
 the platinum loops at the top4 ,if the 
dynamo is now briskly turned1 you will  
find that the lamp will light up well1  
and as long as the wheel is turned and  
the dynamo is buzzing1 so long will the 
lamp continue to glow4 ,by turning the  
dynamo by steam or water-motor we have1 
therefore1 a means of producing a       
continuous light1 which will not drop at

 the end of a few minutes as in the case
 of a battery4 ,this is the method by   
which all public buildings1 etc41 are   
lighted4  ,there is said to be always   
sufficient residual magnetism in the    
soft iron core 7at any rate if          
constructed of ordinary soft iron1 not  
specially annealed7 to act on the       
armature when revolved1 and this1 acting
 on the magnet1 increases its magnetism 
so that they react on each other until  
the maximum effect of the dynamo is     
reached4 ,this is the case with the     
majority of dynamos used for lighting1  
etc42 but if you are of an experimental 
turn of mind1 and are possessed of a    
battery as well as the dynamo1 you can  
try the effect of magnetizing the soft  
iron cores by sending a current from the
 battery through the coil4  ,to do this1
 disconnect the wires from the          
magnet-coil from the binding-screws1 and
 connect them with the terminals of the 
battery4 ,the whole current from the    
dynamo now comes from the armature1 and 

you will find that this current is      
considerably increased1 sparks flying   
about in all directions when the handles
 from the binding-screws are approached 
to each other or rubbed together4 ,the  
water will now be decomposed much       
faster1 and you will be able to light an
 additional lamp or two1 according to   
the strength of the battery4  ,fig4 #aa 
gives an idea of the positions of the   
parts of the dynamo when complete2 it is
 not an easy thing to draw1 and ,i can  
only hope the rough sketch will be      
intelligible to my readers4 ,the spring 
,a is below the roller of contact       
breaker1 and the spring ,b above it1 the
 diagonal line on the roller            
representing the vacancy between the    
brass pieces covering the wood4 ,the    
wires from the ends of the magnet-coil  
go through the base1 round the bottoms  
of the pillars ,a and ,b1 and join the  
other wire between the pillars and the  
binding-screws4 ,the wire from the pole 
on which the wire comes from outside the

 magnet is joined to the binding-screw  
,a in the figure4 ,the other wire comes 
from between the poles1 and is joined to
 the other binding-screw4 ,if you can   
find out1 by means of a galvanometer1   
which binding-screw is conveying the    
positive current1 the wire from the     
south pole of the magnet is to be joined
 to the wire from this1 and that from   
the north pole of the magnet to the wire
 conveying the negative electricity4    
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aa4--;,,dynamo   
,,complete4 ,,ground ,,plan4  ,whenever 
you join the wires1 be sure to scrape   
off all the insulating material1 and    
twist them firmly together2 a little    
solder is an improvement4 ,whenever the 
wires cross the iron work be sure the   
insulating material is quite sound at   
that point4 ,it is a good plan to roll  
paraffined silk round the wires at these
 places4 ,cut grooves under the base1 in
 which the wires may lie1 or the dynamo 
will not stand evenly4 ,the dark line in
 the middle of the top of magnet in     

,fig4 #aa shows where the two parts     
join4 ,they should be screwed up tightly
 together4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4       
#ab4--;,,hand-,,wheel ,,arrangement     
,,for ,,working ,,dynamo4  ,as a        
concluding illustration1 ,i give a      
diagram of my own method of turning my  
dynamo 7,fig4 #ab74 ,on the leg of an   
ordinary table ,t is fixed the heavy    
iron wheel ,w1 which has a groove cut in
 its circumference for the reception of 
an endless band ,b4 ,these wheels may be
 obtained for a few shillings from any  
ironmonger1 as they are made for various
 machines1 such as laths1 fret-saws1    
sewing-machines1 etc4 ,the wheel is held
 by an ordinary screw fixed into the leg
 of the table1 and revolves on the      
screw4 ,the endless band 7tape will do7 
passes over the groove and over the     
pulley of the dynamo placed on the table
 above the wheel4  ,it is better to let 
the pulley of the dynamo project beyond 
the end of the base1 as shown in ,fig4  
#aa1 in order to be able to connect it  

with a wheel placed below it1 if        
required4  ,the best results are        
produced from the dynamo when the       
resistance of the interpolar 7i4 e4 the 
lamp1 or whatever it may have to work7  
is equal to the internal resistance of  
the machine4 ,it is sometimes required  
to send a current through a greater     
resistance than this1 and then it       
becomes necessary to employ what is     
familiarly termed a shunt4 ,if one lamp 
of high resistance is coupled to the    
dynamo1 the resistance may be too great 
for the current to get round the magnet 
in sufficient quantity to give the      
required electromotive force4 ,supposing
 that this is the case1 we make a second
 pathway for it by joining on a piece of
 iron wire 7about ten inches of ,no4    
#cj7 between the two binding-screws1 the
 lamp being connected with the same     
binding-screws1 only further off4 ,the  
result of this is that the current goes 
round by the second pathway and excites 
the magnet more powerfully1 and this1 in

 its turn1 excites the armature more    
strongly1 and so on1 until enough       
current is produced to light up the     
lamp4 ,the resistance of the shunt      
required depends on the resistance of   
the lamp4 ,if this is low no shunt will 
be required1 if very high the resistance
 of the shunt must be lowered1 or else  
enough current will not pass to         
magnetize the soft iron cores1 and the  
dynamo will give no current4 ,the lower 
the resistance of the shunt required1   
the less wire we use4     ,some ,toys   
,worked by ,electricity4   ,,part ,i4   
,,the ,,electric ,,trumpet4  ,there are 
many toys which one meets with in the   
scientific stores1 the making of which  
for themselves would give great         
satisfaction to enterprising devotees of
 the electrical art4 ,they are for the  
most part easily constructed1 and a     
great deal of amusement can be derived  
from them4 ,i have my doubts whether the
 fathers and mothers of the amateur     
electrician will thank me for           

introducing the subject of the present  
article1 but they must take comfort in  
the thought that if it works well it    
shows real constructive power on the    
part of the maker4  ,for the benefit of 
those whose capability of working in    
metal is limited1 ,i am first going to  
describe the making of this remarkable  
instrument in its simplest form--a form1
 in fact1 so simple that any one can    
make it and achieve success in a few    
hours4  ,first of all we want an old    
tooth-powder box4 ,these are all made   
the same size1 and consequently it is   
unnecessary to give dimensions4 ,the top
 of the tooth-powder box is to be taken1
 and by means of a fretsaw 7this        
invaluable tool should be in the hands  
of every boy who likes carpentering2    
there are many uses to which it can be  
put quite different for what it is      
intended for7 a circular hole is to be  
cut out about #a_/h inch less than the  
inside--that is to say1 a rim of about  
#a_/h inch is to project all around from

 the rim of the lid4  ,we now want what 
is known in photography as a ferrotype  
plate--i4 e41 a piece of very thin sheet
 iron4 ,most dealers in photographic    
goods will not sell less than four or   
five dozen of them1 and this is too many
 for us4 ,a photographic friend will let
 us have one gratis1 or a professional  
photographer may agree to part with one 
for five or ten cents if he is attacked 
when in a good temper4  ,the ferrotype  
plate having been procured by some means
 or other1 the next thing is to cut from
 it a circle just small enough to go    
inside the rim of the top of the        
tooth-powder box4 ,you can mark out the 
circle before cutting it by painting the
 top of the rim of the bottom of the    
tooth-powder box with ink and pressing  
it down on the ferrotype plate1 when    
enough ink will come off to guide the   
scissors1 and of course the circle so   
cut will be the exact size required4    
,we now have to make the motive power of
 the machine1 for there is plenty of    

work done in it1 though it only makes a 
noise--no one can make a noise in the   
world without doing plenty of work6 ,and
 to make this we take a piece of soft   
iron rod about #a inch long and half an 
inch in diameter1 and cut two circles   
out of cardboard #a inch in diameter4   
,the soft iron rod can be bought from   
any hardware store1 and it ought to be  
quite soft enough to work at once       
without doing anything to it2 if it is  
not1 it must be heated red-hot in a good
 fire and left among the coals          
over-night to get cool very gradually4  
,personally ,i have always found that   
the ordinary bars of soft iron bought   
from any hardware man are amply soft    
enough for any electrical work4  ,you   
must get the hardware man to file the   
ends of your bar flat2 if they are not  
filed you will have to do it yourself1  
and a fine job it is6  ,now we go back  
to the circles of cardboard4 ,a hole is 
to be cut in each in the center exactly 
the size to admit the core of soft iron1

 then by slipping the circles over the  
ends we get a reel4 ,now a hole has to  
be made exactly in the center of the    
bottom of the tooth-powder box1 and     
exactly so large that the core of soft  
iron will fit tightly into it2 you can  
do this again with the fretsaw1 the wood
 of which tooth-powder boxes are made is
 delightfully easy to cut4  ,now comes  
the adjustment of the reel4 ,you must   
put the circles on the core1 and putting
 one end of the latter through the hole 
at the bottom of the box you must push  
the iron through until the top is       
exactly flush with the top of the rim of
 the side of the box4 ,one of your      
circles will now be much further on the 
core than the other1 and the one at the 
end that is not pushed through the hole 
must be adjusted close to the edge1     
leaving about #a_/af of the core        
projecting1 so that we have now a reel  
formed at one end of the core1 and held 
in position by the bottom of the box4   
,the more stiffly the core fits the hole

 the better1 and if it has to be        
hammered into its place1 better still1  
only take care not to split the wood of 
the bottom of the box4  ,the circles1   
being now in their right places1 must   
not be moved again1 but the roller has  
to be wound with wire1 for which purpose
 the core will have to come out of the  
box temporarily4 ,before beginning to   
wind the wire1 get some thin paper      
7,french note-paper is best71 and wind a
 piece round and round the core between 
the circles1 fastening it and the       
circles at its ends to the core by means
 of a small quantity of mucilage4  ,we  
now have to wind the wire on to the     
roller4 ,the more wire the stronger the 
magnet will be1 but sufficient will be  
about two ounces4 ,you can get the wire 
at most hardware stores for fifteen     
cents an ounce4 ,it is generally        
cotton-covered1 of light green color2   
medium thickness should be used1 not too
 fine1 as this offers too much          
resistance to the current1 and not too  

coarse1 or it will fill the reel too    
soon4  ,we begin by making a hole near  
the core in the circle which is furthest
 on it1 and push one end of the wire    
through a hole from the inside of the   
reel4 ,about three inches should be     
pushed through to allow for future      
manipulation1 and the wire is now to be 
wound tightly over the paper covering   
the core in even coils1 layer on layer1 
till the reel is nearly full and we have
 arrived at within about three inches of
 the other end of the wire4 ,this is now
 to be passed through another hole in   
the same circle as before1 which hole   
will of course be further from the      
center than the first4 ,the magnet will 
be much stronger if two or three folds  
of paper are wrapped round it between   
each layer of wire4  ,the coil is now   
constructed1 and can be replaced in the 
tooth-powder box1 passing the ends of   
the wire through two holes in the side  
or bottom made to receive them4 ,before 
leaving this part of the instrument ,i  

may remark that care must be taken that 
the covering of wire is quite continuous
 throughout1 and has not got rubbed off 
at any points2 if it has1 you must wind 
fine silk over it to cover it up again4 
,should there be a break anywhere in the
 wire you must carefully scrape the wire
 off the two ends and twist the wires   
firmly together1 if possible soldering  
them together and then wind fine silk   
over the join4  ,it is not necessary in 
this machine to soak the coil in melted 
paraffin1 but might improve the         
insulation if the cover of the wire is  
thin4 ,only if there is a join and you  
have twisted1 not soldered the wires    
together1 you must not soak the coil in 
wax1 or the melted wax gets between the 
ends of the wires and stops the current 
7this of course applies to all          
electro-magnets and should be remembered
 as a possible cause of failure47  ,the 
core having been pushed through the hole
 again1 up to the circle of cardboard1  
the ferrotype plate is placed in the top

 of the box1 and the box is shut up4    
,now the ferrotype plate must be exactly
 free of the end of the core and that is
 all4 ,you can test this by tapping it4 
,if it vibrates in and out1 it is all   
right2 if the end of the core is too    
tightly pressed against it1 there will  
be no possibility of moving the center  
in and out1 and the core must be driven 
further through the hole till it is just
 free of the ferrotype plate4           
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4--,,shape ,,of 
,,platinum ,,foil1 ,p1 ,,fastened ,,to  
,,ferrotype ,,plate1 ,f4  ,now comes    
another part of the instrument1 viz41   
the contact-breaker4 ,the following is  
as good a way of arranging it as any3   
,take a piece of sheet brass the exact  
length of the diameter of the top of the
 tooth-powder box and about half inch   
wide1 and in the middle of it bore a    
hole which will admit a brass           
screw--with a milled head preferably4   
,the screw should fit tightly into the  
hole1 so as to screw easily up and down 

when turned4 ,to the end of the screw1  
which is cut off flat1 is soldered a    
short piece of platinum wire1 inserted  
in a hole in the end of the screw made  
to receive it2 it can be fastened by any
 other means1 as long as it will screw  
up and down and is in contact with the  
brass screw4 ,adjust the screw so that  
the platinum point is within a minute   
distance of the ferrotype plate when the
 brass support is screwed down at the   
ends to the side of the box lid1 and    
screw it down with small screws firmly  
in its position4  ,illustration3 ,,fig  
#b4--,,section ,,of ,,simple ,,electric 
,,trumpet ,,showing ,,details ,,of      
,,various ,,parts4  ,before this is     
done1 however1 a thin strip of platinum 
foil should be soldered to the upper    
surface of the ferrotype plate1 or      
otherwise fastened to it--elastic glue  
will answer--this strip terminating in  
the center1 and reaching to the edge of 
the plate1 leaving a short piece over4  
,a very thin strip will be enough1 of   

the shape of ,p in ,fig4 #a4 ,now the   
ferrotype plate is to be placed in      
position again 7the side of which the   
platinum foil is fastened being         
outwards1 and the end of the foil going 
down between the edge of the ferrotype  
plate and the wood into the inside of   
the box71 and the end of the wire from  
the coil which was left inside the box  
is to be securely fastened1 either by   
soldering or otherwise1 to the end of   
the platinum foil which was left loose1 
so as to be in metallic connection with 
it4 ,a wire can now be twisted round or 
soldered to the screw with the platinum 
point1 and the instrument is complete4  
,it has taken some space to describe1   
but ,i made my own in about half an     
hour4 ,fig4 #b gives a general view of  
the parts put together4  ,the lid of the
 box should be tightly fastened down by 
four small screws1 two of which may be  
those which fasten on the brass strip   
holding the screw4  ,now to consider its
 action4 ,the wire ,i in ,fig4 #b is    

connected to one wire of the battery1   
and the wire ,g to the other4 ,the      
current then starts from the battery1   
round the coil ,b1 converting the core  
into a magnet1 and up the wire ,h to the
 platinum foil ,p1 along the platinum   
foil1 which was fastened to the upper   
side of the ferrotype plate ,f1 to the  
platinum wire which tips the screw ,c4  
,it then goes up the screw ,c1 along the
 brass piece ,e1 which is fastened to   
the box by screws1 as shown in the      
figure1 to the wire ,g1 and so back to  
the battery by the other wire4  ,the    
screw ,c must be therefore screwed down 
till the platinum wire at its tip is    
just in contact with the foil on the    
ferrotype plate4 ,now of course when the
 current goes round the coil1 and thus  
converts the soft iron into an          
electro-magnet1 the latter instantly    
attracts the ferrotype plate which is   
immediately above it4 ,but the latter   
moving its center near the core1 the    
platinum foil which is attached to it is

 thereby moved out of contact with the  
wire on the screw ,c1 and the current is
 instantly stopped4 ,thereupon the      
attraction of the magnet ceases1 and the
 ferrotype plate flies back to its      
former position and so joins the        
platinum wire and foil1 and starts the  
current again1 and the former process is
 repeated4 ,the ferrotype plate         
therefore vibrates with tremendous      
rapidity between the core and the       
platinum screw4 ,now the vibrating      
armature of an ordinary coil makes quite
 a hum when hard at work1 but of course 
a large plate such as this makes a much 
louder noise1 consequently you will hear
 a ferocious buzzing like an army of    
millions of bees let loose from a hive1 
and on screwing the screw ,c up or down 
till you get to the correct point you   
will get a shrill note very like a penny
 whistle4 ,if screwed up the vibrations 
are slower1 and a deeper note is        
produced2 if screwed down the vibrations
 are more rapid and a higher note is    

sounded4 ,therefore you can amuse       
yourself by screwing it rapidly up and  
down1 or adjusting it by pressing the   
brass piece with your finger1 and a     
little practice will enable you to bring
 out a sort of tune produced by         
electricity6  ,when you have become     
tired of jingling out your tune you can 
fix the electric trumpet up in a        
permanent position1 adjusting the wires 
from the battery so as to pass through  
an ordinary press which may be in       
another room4 ,the trumpet will then    
begin buzzing or hooting whenever the   
button of the press is pushed in1 and   
stop when the pressure is released4 ,in 
this way of course the trumpet will act 
as a call instead of a bell1 and as the 
double wire can be easily hidden under  
the carpet and in dark corners1 and     
painted to match whatever wood-work it  
crosses1 you can arrange it from an     
up-stairs room to a down-stairs one or  
vice versa with very little trouble4 ,i 
give an illustration of the method of   

connecting the battery and trumpet with 
one switch or press1 to show how to     
arrange the series4 7,see ,fig4 #c47    
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4--,,method ,,of
 ,,connecting ,,trumpet ,,to ,,battery  
,,and ,,one ,,press4  ,the trumpet made 
in the very simple way ,i have described
 will not produce a very loud noise1 but
 quite loud enough1 if properly put     
together1 to attract a person's         
attention who was in the room when it   
went off4 ,the sound can be rendered    
louder by fixing a cardboard funnel or  
cornucopia to the front of the          
tooth-powder box to make a kind of horn4
   ,,part ,,ii4  ,the trumpets sold in  
the shops1 as a rule1 make a very loud  
noise indeed--in fact1 a little of it   
goes a very long way with most people4  
,the increased sound is probably due to 
the body of the trumpet being composed  
of brass1 which1 vibrating in unison    
with the ferrotype plate1 increases the 
sound4 ,wood will therefore not give so 
loud a sound1 and if you can construct  

the case of metal you should certainly  
do so4 ,the vibrations of the plate1 and
 therefore the sound1 may also be       
increased by using a horseshoe magnet1  
the two poles attracting the plate more 
strongly4 ,in the bought trumpets the   
case is shaped like a horn1 in which the
 magnet is placed1 the platinum         
contact-breaker being behind 7where it  
is in the one ,i have described1        
supposing there was no bottom to the box
 and the magnet was supported by a bar  
across from side to side1 the cornucopia
 being placed on that side of the box1  
instead of the other1 with the magnet   
inside it74 ,i think it is unnecessary  
to describe their construction further1 
as the principle and details of         
construction of the simple one ,i have  
described will apply to any1 and any    
method of structure may be adopted which
 suits the mind of the maker4  ,the     
trumpet having been made ,i will now    
give you a plan of fitting it up which  
adds enormously to the effect4 ,we want 

to hide the trumpet so that no one shall
 know where it is4 ,my own plan of doing
 this is as follows3 ,i have made a     
wooden erection1 of which ,i give a     
drawing which will explain itself4 ,it  
consists of a back with a shelf at the  
bottom and a kind of canopy at the top4 
,it can be made almost any size1 small  
or big1 to suit the occupant of the     
shelf4 ,my own measurements are about as
 follows3 ,from the top ,a to the bottom
 ,b1 the length of back piece1 including
 bracket1 #a foot #c inches4 ,breadth of
 back #e inches4 ,side of canopy 7,d71  
breadth #d inches1 height #c inches1    
breadth of front 7,c to ,d7 #e inches2  
height of course the same as sides4 ,the
 top piece will then be about #e inches 
by #d inches4 ,the shelf at the bottom  
is about the same size as the top of the
 canopy1 and is supported by a bracket  
of rather thick wood1 which you can     
carve as elaborately as you like4  ,now 
take the electric trumpet1 whether made 
at home or purchased1 and fasten it to  

the under side of the canopy 7this is   
best done before the sides are put on71 
and fasten a double wire behind the back
 7cutting a groove for it to go in7 up  
to the back of the canopy1 where it goes
 through and divides1 one wire being    
fastened to one terminal of the trumpet 
and the other wire to the other4 ,the   
double wire goes right down the back and
 emerges at ,b4 ,obviously if you now   
join your press and battery on to the   
double wire1 when you squeeze the press 
the trumpet will squeak4 ,but here we   
are going to practice a little innocent 
deception1 and to that end we go to a   
toy shop and purchase a small and pretty
 doll of the male sex1 and if you can   
get one 7or dress one up7 attired as a  
soldier or trumpeter1 by all means do   
so4 ,the doll is now to be fixed on to  
the bracket by means of a long wire--say
 a hairpin bent out straight1 one end   
being pushed into the wood1 the other   
passing up one trouser leg of the doll  
and into its body2 the wire is thus     

completely hidden and is much better    
than glue1 as it admits of the doll     
being placed in a natural attitude1 and 
being removed if required4 ,in one of   
his hands you must make him hold a small
 trumpet 7this is a very expensive item2
 it will cost two cents7 with the       
mouthpiece to his mouth1 as represented 
in the picture4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4  
#d4--;,,electric ,,doll4  ,the whole    
thing is now fastened to the wall in a  
convenient place1 by driving nails      
through the back1 and the double wire is
 completely hidden by passing it behind 
furniture1 books1 etc41 down to the     
floor4 ,there is great scope for        
ingenuity on the part of the worker in  
hiding the wire1 and no definite        
instructions can possibly be given4 ,in 
my own case ,i have no back piece below 
the shelf the support being against the 
wall4 ,the wire descends behind the     
support 7to ,b in the picture71 and     
below that ,i have hung a date calendar 
over it1 it makes a turn to the right   

and goes down behind a chiffonier       
covered with books to the floor4 ,under 
these circumstances no human being could
 possibly tell that there was a wire at 
all1 and there being no back piece under
 the bracket 7so that the paper of the  
room can be seen71 nothing but the      
support touching the calendar1 it does  
not look as if any wires could possibly 
be hidden anywhere4  ,now1 if you press 
the button1 of course the trumpet       
squeaks1 but the doll being just        
underneath it1 and the trumpet being in 
the dark under the canopy1 no one thinks
 it is a separate instrument1 but of    
course every one jumps to the conclusion
 that it is the doll blowing6 ,hide the 
battery in a corner in a black box1 the 
wires coming through the side next the  
wall1 and the press in a dark corner1 or
 on the floor under a table so that you 
can put your foot on it while your hands
 are free1 writing1 etc4  ,you can of   
course now tell the doll to blow1 at the
 same moment putting your foot on the   

press1 when the trumpet blows           
accordingly4 ,of course this is         
mysterious to the last degree to the    
uninitiated friend to whom you are      
displaying the doll1 as you may be any  
distance off from the doll with your    
hands free1 speaking to him across the  
room4  ,the wooden erection to hold the 
doll can be painted any color2          
preferable the back should be black1 as 
it shows off the doll4 ,in front of the 
canopy you can paint a monogram or      
heraldic device4 ,if the doll is one of 
those extremely pretty little specimens 
which can be procured at any good toy   
shop for about twenty-five cents1       
dressed as base ball players1 soldiers1 
etc1 7what our grandmothers would have  
thought of them in their young days it  
is difficult to imagine7 it will really 
be quite an ornament to the room1       
independently of its electrical         
qualities4  ,this chapter has outgrown  
the space ,i meant to occupy1 and ,i    
must wait for the next to tell you how  

to make the doll work from various parts
 of the room as you walk about and talk 
to him1 and how to make the battery4    
,the best battery to use is to          
,leclanche4 ,you can use three or four  
cells of ,no4 #b size according to      
length of wire through which the current
 has to pass4  ,in my next chapter ,i   
will try and explain how to make an     
electric drum1 so that you can have a   
kind of drum and fife band4   ,,part    
,,iii4  ,,the ,,electric ,,drum4  ,in   
part two on the ,electric ,trumpet1 ,i  
promised to explain how to make an      
electric drum2 and this promise ,i now  
propose to redeem4  ,the system on which
 it works is precisely analogous to that
 of the electric trumpet1 and almost    
identical with that of the ordinary     
electric bell1 of which ,i hope to say  
more in another chapter4  ,as before1 we
 have a hammer vibrating backwards and  
forwards in response to pulls from a    
magnet1 which is magnetized and         
demagnetized by stopping and starting an

 electric current4 ,in the case of the  
induction coil1 the hammer is only a    
means whereby the current is broken and 
started again with great rapidity1 and  
in the case of the trumpet the vibrator 
is used to make the noise by its        
vibration1 but in this instrument we    
must have a bona fide hammer1 which must
 be able to beat the drum1 and thus     
cause a stirring and martial sound4     
,first1 then1 we will devote our        
attention to the construction of the    
magnet4 ,in former chapters 7as in the  
case of the electro-motor for example71 
,i have given you the method of making  
the magnets out of one solid piece of   
soft iron1 in the form of a horseshoe4  
,this time1 however1 we will make it of 
several pieces1 for a change2 it is far 
more convenient to make1 and looks much 
neater when finished4  ,take a piece of 
soft iron #a inches long by #e_/h inch  
broad and #a_/h inch thick1 and in the  
middle drill a hole about #c_/af inch in
 diameter4 ,on each side of this1 on a  

line with it at a distance of about     
inch1 drill two more holes of the same  
size4 ,this is to form the back1 or1 as 
it is scientifically termed1 the yoke of
 the magnet4 ,to form the poles we      
require two exactly similar pieces of   
soft iron bar #a inch long and #c_/h    
inch in diameter4 ,these are to be filed
 quite smooth at the ends after cutting1
 and in the middle of one end a hole is 
to be drilled to admit a screw which    
will just go through the holes on each  
side of the center one made in the flat 
piece of the soft iron4 ,these holes are
 cut to receive the thread of the screw1
 but if you can't do this you can simply
 leave out the end holes for screws1 and
 solder the round and flat pieces of    
iron together4 ,these are to be soldered
 or screwed together1 so as to form a   
magnet1 the hole in the middle of the   
flat piece serving to introduce a screw1
 for the purpose of attaching the magnet
 to a support4 ,the best plan1 if you   
can do it1 is to drill and tap this hole

 to receive a screw which is inserted in
 a brass support made of a piece of     
brass #a #a_/h inch1 long  inch broad1  
and #a_/h inch thick1 bent at right     
angles at about  inch from one end1 this
 shortest end being drilled for two     
screws to fasten it to the base-board1  
while the longest end has a hole in the 
center about #a_/h inch from the end1 to
 admit the screw which fits the hole in 
the center of the yoke4 ,having done all
 this1 you will have ,fig4 #a1 which    
represents the magnet before it is      
wound4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4           
#a4--,,magnet ,,put ,,together ,,ready  
,,for ,,winding4 7,sectional diagram47  
,the soft iron cores have now to be     
converted into magnets as usual1 and    
here comes in the especial advantages of
 having screws to fasten the magnet     
together1 as you can take the whole     
thing to bits1 wind the wire on the legs
 in comfort1 and then fasten together   
again4 ,but if you have soldered the    
magnet together1 you can achieve the    

same end in a different way by making   
two small bobbins to hold the wire1 the 
exact size to slip on over the soft iron
 cores when the wire is wound on them4  
,it is generally considered proper to   
wind the wire on bobbins1 which can be  
removed from the cores if required4 ,i  
should think it can seldom be required1 
but the bobbins are convenient in this  
case4 ,i may remark parenthetically that
 bobbins wound and unwound1 soft iron   
cores1 and yokes1 separately or         
together1 and supports fixed to the     
yokes or not1 can be obtained from any  
large electrician who sells parts of    
electric bells1 etc42 the magnet can    
also be got put together complete4  ,we 
now have to make bobbins1 supposing that
 we are not going to buy them4 ,the     
elaborateness of their manufacture will 
depend entirely on the skill of the     
maker4 ,some construct them by sawing   
off top and bottom of a reel of cotton1 
and forming a roller of cardboard to fit
 the magnets1 finally joining the ends  

of the reel to this roller1 to make an  
elongated reel of the right size4       
,others construct their bobbins entirely
 of cardboard1 the ends being merely two
 circles of card4 ,others who are versed
 in the mysteries of wood-turning1 and  
are lucky enough to possess a lathe with
 which to do it1 make two bobbins of    
solid wood1 drilled to fit the iron     
cores4 ,for these no instructions are   
needed1 as the dimensions will be as    
given presently4 ,for those who only    
want to use the magnet for this special 
purpose1 and do not care about the      
bobbins being removable1 the following  
is the simplest way to set to work3     
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4--,,magnet     
,,wound ,,and ,,put ,,together4  ,cut   
two circles of thick cardboard1 each    
#g_/h inch in diameter1 and in the      
center cut a hole the exact size to slip
 over the soft iron core4 ,now wrap     
several thicknesses of thin tissue      
paper--or preferably ,french note paper 
or tracing paper--over the magnet1      

between the circles of cardboard1       
cutting the strip about #a #a_/h inch   
broad or #c_/h inch less than the length
 of the cores4 ,now you can fasten the  
two circles of cardboard at the ends of 
the tracing paper1 and keep them in     
their proper places on the magnet by    
means of mucilage--beat the soft iron   
before applying1 and it will then adhere
 firmly to it4 ,in this way1 of course1 
you form a roller1 on which we now have 
to wind the wire4 ,if you have soldered 
the magnet's parts together1 you must   
have movable bobbins1 as it would be    
simply impossible to wind the wire      
evenly on the cores when fixed in       
position1 as the edges of the bobbins   
will be so close together that it is not
 possible to wind the wire on between   
them without the coils becoming         
displaced4  ,the method of winding the  
wire is simple enough4 ,no4 #bd wire is 
a good size to use2 it can be           
cotton-covered or1 preferably1          
silk-covered1 as in the latter case the 

insulation is better4 ,begin by making a
 hole near the roller in the circle of  
cardboard that is next to the end where 
the hole for the screw has been made4   
,pass about three inches of wire through
 the hole and then wind it evenly on    
over the tracing paper from end to end  
and back again4 ,you ought to have five 
or six layers of it2 an ounce1 or an    
ounce and a half1 of wire will probably 
be enough4 ,when it is all on1 make     
another hole in the disc and pass out   
the wire4 ,this is only to hold it safe 
while you wind the other bobbin4 ,when  
that is finished you can put the magnet 
together1 and ends of the two wires have
 now to be joined together4 ,the two    
ends that are joined together must be   
those which come from the wire that is  
wound from the right to the left over   
one core and left to right over the     
other1 that is to say1 taking the wire  
when joined as one1 it must be so wound 
on both limbs of the magnet that if they
 were bent into one straight bar it     

would all be wound in the same          
direction4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4       
#c4--,,shape ,,of ,,spring ,,for        
,,armature4  ,with a composite magnet1  
however1 there is no earthly difficulty 
in getting it right1 for you have only  
to connect the battery to two wires and 
join the other two1 and if they don't   
make the magnet work1 join up one to the
 battery instead of one of those joined1
 and connect the other two wires2       
whichever gives the best result stick   
to4 ,you must get all the silk or cotton
 off the wire1 where you join them1 and 
twist them over and over tightly        
together2 if you can solder them1 so    
much the better4 ,pull the wire tight   
and wind it on the reels until the place
 where it is joined is pulled tightly   
and not left in a loop1 which would look
 untidy4 ,fig4 #b gives an idea of the  
magnet completed1 and ,i have endeavored
 by means of the arrows to show how the 
wire is wound1 they are supposed to give
 the direction of the top layer of wire 

in each case2 of course either may be   
wound from the inside1 so you must also 
consider that in this picture the       
outside coils are joined4 ,the magnet   
having been thus constructed1 we must   
now turn our attention to the vibrating 
hammer which is to beat the drum4 ,to   
make this we want another piece of soft 
iron of about the same size as that     
forming the yoke of the magnet1 say1 #a 
#c_/h inch   inch  #a_/h inch4 ,we shall
 then require a piece of brass spring   
about three inches long and half an inch
 broad4 ,this is made of very thin      
springy brass1 so as to make a spring   
which will move the armature quickly4   
,one end of the spring should be tapered
 off as shown in ,fig4 #c1 and at the   
point ,p in the figure a small piece of 
platinum foil 7the real thing1 not      
tin-foil1 which ,i am sure is often sold
 in cheap apparatus instead of it17     
should be fastened1 by solder if        
possible4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4        
#d4--;,,drum ,,hammer ,,put ,,together4 

,we now want a piece of rather stout    
brass wire bent into the shape shown in 
,fig4 #d4 ,it must be about four inches 
long1 but its length will be determined 
by the size of the drum and the length  
of the magnet when it is all put        
together4 ,at the end of this wire you  
must have a wooden knob 7not brass1     
which doesn't produce nearly so much    
noise74 ,this you will have provided    
ready for you if you purchase the drum1 
as they will naturally supply drumsticks
 with it1 and the head of one of these  
cut off and fastened to the end of the  
wire1 by simply making a hole and       
sticking it in1 will answer the purpose 
beautifully4  ,this wire has to be      
fastened to the soft iron armature1 a   
simple way of doing which is to drill a 
hole the exact size and insert the end2 
it can then be soldered in4 ,or1 if you 
cannot drill a hole1 you can simply     
solder it on4 ,the brass spring has the 
end bent outwards1 as shown in ,fig4 #d1
 and is fastened to the soft iron       

armature by screws1 as shown in the     
figure at ,s ,s1 or simply soldered on4 
,the point ,c is the end that is tapered
 off1 and the platinum wire is fixed at 
that point2 the spring should extend    
about #a inch beyond the armature at the
 other end4 ,two holes are drilled in   
the spring at the points ,h ,h1 through 
which screws are passed into the        
support4 ,this support may be either a  
piece of iron  inch long1  inch broad   
and  inch thick1 or a piece of wood will
 answer very well1 and save drilling    
holes in the iron4 ,if it is wood it had
 better be larger1 say  inch by  inch by
 #a inch4   ,,part ,,iv4  ,we can now   
proceed to fasten all the parts         
together4 ,we must have a piece of hard 
wood for the base1 about #c inches by #c
 inches and #c_/h inch thick4 ,on this  
the magnet has to be fastened by its    
support being screwed firmly down4 ,in  
front of it the armature has to be      
fastened at such a height as to be      
exactly in front of the poles of the    

magnet4 ,the relative positions of the  
parts are shown in ,fig4 #e1 so ,i do   
not think a detailed account of their   
exact positions on the base is at all   
necessary4  ,there is1 however1 one     
piece of the mechanism in the figure to 
which ,i have introduced you1 this is   
the contact-screw shown at ,c4 ,to make 
this we take a piece of brass about #a  
inch long1  inch broad1 and rather less 
than #a_/h inch thick1 and bend it at   
right angles1 so that one leg is one    
inch long and the other  inch4 ,now in  
the part that is  inch have to be       
drilled three holes to fasten it with   
nails or screws to the base4 ,the other 
part1 one inch long1 will then stand    
erect1 but before fastening it in its   
place we put it to stand in front of the
 magnet and mark a point which is       
exactly on a level with the piece of    
platinum foil on the spring1 when the   
spring and magnet are fixed in position4
 ,a hole has now to be drilled through  
that point and tapped to admit a brass  

screw with a milled head1 and fix the   
piece in which the screw works to the   
front hole1 so that the screw will work 
through it4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4      
#e4--;,,interior ,,mechanism ,,of ,,drum
 ,,complete4  ,the point of the screw   
has now to be cut off and a very small  
piece of platinum wire fixed at the end4
 ,this wire will now come in contact    
with the platinum foil on the spring1   
when the brass support is fixed in a    
certain position on the base1 and it is 
now to be fixed in that position with   
screws or nails4 ,it should be so fixed 
that when the screw is turned till it is
 nearly out of its hole the wire is just
 out of contact with the platinum foil  
on the spring4 ,it is now evident that  
by turning the screw one way you make   
the spring vibrate more rapidly1 and by 
turning it the other way its efforts are
 relaxed4  ,the contact-breaker screw   
having been fixed in its place1 and the 
support of the spring also fixed as at  
,t in the diagram 7,fig4 #e7--;by screws

 through the base into the iron1 if it  
is made of iron1 or by nails or screws  
through it into the base if of wood--all
 the parts are now together1 and all    
that remains to be done is to make the  
necessary connections4 ,one wire that   
comes from the magnet is to be joined   
7soldered1 if possible17 to the spring  
at ,h in the picture2 the other wire is 
left loose4 ,to the brass support of the
 contact screw we solder another piece  
of wire4 ,now this piece of wire is     
connected with the zinc of the battery  
and the other 7coming from the coil of  
the magnet7 with the carbon of the      
battery4 ,what happens8  ,the           
electricity passes along the wire ,x1 we
 will say1 and round the magnet coils1  
thus turning the cores into magnets4 ,it
 then goes down the other wire to ,h1 up
 the brass spring1 along the screw1 and 
down by the brass support to the other  
wire1 by which it returns to the        
battery4 ,that is to say1 it would do   
all this if the armature stood still1   

but1 of course1 when the cores become   
magnets they attract the armature1 which
 instantly moves towards them2 this     
breaks the circuit1 the spring moving   
off the platinum point of the screw1 and
 the armature springs back again1 which 
makes the circuit complete and the      
magnet attracts it again1 and so on4    
,the object of the spring is to get a   
good deal of vibration1 and it and the  
screw should be so adjusted that        
although the armature is close enough to
 the magnet to make it certain to go off
 directly it is meant to do so1 yet     
there may be as much scope for the      
spring to work with elasticity as       
possible4  ,we have now completed the   
electrical part of the business1 but a  
slightly necessary part of the apparatus
 has yet to be obtained--viz41 the drum4
 ,you can easily make a drum if you     
like1 by taking a broad piece of tin1   
twisting it round to form a hoop1 and   
covering the ends with parchment        
strained tightly over them4 ,however1 ,i

 should certainly not do so1 for there  
can hardly be any spot1 ,i should think1
 which boasts of a toy-shop at all1     
where drums cannot be procured6 ,for    
twenty-five cents you can get a very    
superior drum1 just about the right     
size2 if you like to get a bigger one   
and make the mechanical part bigger1 you
 will1 of course1 be rewarded by more   
noise4  ,now1 suppose you have got a    
#be-;cent toy-drum1 you must proceed to 
take off one end4 ,if you look at the   
construction of the drum you will find  
7at least it is the case with my own1   
and ,i have not seen any that are       
differently made7 that by cutting one of
 the double strings that fasten the wood
 hoops at the top and bottom together1  
and then loosening all the other strings
 with your fingers1 the wooden hoop at  
one end will come right off1 if the     
nails fastening the ends together are   
taken out1 and that then the inner hoop 
on which the parchment is stretched will
 also come off and leave that side of   

the drum open4  ,now1 this is simply    
grand for our purpose1 for when we have 
arranged our little dodges inside the   
drum1 we can put on all the hoops again1
 replace the one double string1 and no  
one will be an atom the wiser4 ,if you  
could get off the side without breaking 
any strings it would save the trouble of
 replacing any1 but ,i am afraid this is
 hardly possible4 ,however1 off comes   
the side of our drum1 and what is to be 
done next8 ,well1 the beater must be put
 bodily inside the drum1 just so close  
to the parchment side that was taken off
 that the wooden head of the drumstick  
touches it when attracted by the magnet4
 ,you can easily find the right place in
 actual practice by setting the beater  
going and finding the spot inside the   
drum where it kicks up the worst racket 
when working4 ,it must not be too close 
or it will hinder the vibration1 and we 
want the hammer to go off instanter when
 required4 ,the beater is fixed to the  
side of the drum with its side marked ,z

 in the figure 7#e7 downwards4 ,it is   
easily fastened there by making two     
holes in the wood 7in the thickness of  
it71 and two corresponding holes in the 
metal side of the drum1 and then        
screwing it down in its proper place4   
,two holes are to be made in the side of
 the drum and two ornamental bits of    
silk-covered flexible copper conductor  
let through4 ,they can be secured by    
simply tying knots inside the drum1 and 
the copper ends are now to be fastened1 
one to the wire ,x and the other to the 
wire ,k from the contact screw support4 
,having done all this and made sure that
 the beater works when the ends of the  
flexible cord outside the drum are      
connected with the battery1 we seal up  
our drum again1 and that is then        
concluded4  ,now as to fixing it up1 ,i 
think ,i may fairly assume that you know
 how to make it work by an ordinary     
battery and a press4 ,it is only        
necessary to run a double wire from     
battery to press and from press to drum1

 one wire of the double conductor being 
fastened to the carbon end of the       
battery and the other to the zinc end1  
and the other end of one wire to one of 
the wires coming from the drum4 ,the    
other wire coming from the drum is then 
joined to the bottom conductor of the   
press1 and the upper conductor of the   
press is joined to the other wire of the
 double conductor that goes to the      
battery4 ,it is all very easy to        
understand if you follow the course of  
the current and consider that it has to 
pass through the drum and the press when
 the latter is pushed down1 and be      
stopped when it is left to spring up    
again4  ,but the more magical           
arrangement can be made with the drum1  
and ,i think it is well worth while to  
do it1 if merely for the fun of         
mystifying people4 ,the drum is going to
 be suspended by the flexible cords2    
therefore1 let them be the same length1 
and cutting off all the coverings at the
 end of each1 fasten a brass eye to the 

copper1 twisting the wire well round the
 bottom of the eye4 ,now wind silk of   
the same color as the rest all round the
 join1 so that the connection of wire   
and eye is completely hidden1 and the   
eye appears merely fastened to the      
flexible cord as a means of suspending  
the drum4 ,now we want to construct a   
hook from which the drum can be hung4   
,,part ,v4  ,take two small pieces of   
brass wire about an inch long1 and turn 
up the ends of each into a hook4 ,now   
get a minute piece of ebonite of the    
same length1 and1 putting one hook on   
one side and one on the other1 bind the 
whole together with silk4 ,if you cannot
 get ebonite easily you can use a small 
piece of sealing-wax in the same way2 by
 heating the wires you can sink them    
into the wax and so make a neater join4 
,now the wires must not touch each other
 anywhere1 but must be completely       
separated by the ebonite or sealing-wax4
 ,the double wire from the battery and  
press is now fastened1 one wire to the  

press hook on one side1 and one wire to 
that on the other side of the           
sealing-wax or ebonite4 ,wind silk over 
the whole to cover the joins1 and a neat
 double hook is the result4 ,the picture
 7,fig4 #f7 gives the method of making  
the hook1 and it also gives a great deal
 more1 which ,i now proceed to explain4 
,supposing we can rig up a small beam of
 wood from which to suspend the drum1 we
 can make matters more mysterious still4
 ,let the double wire1 being hidden by  
some means or other all along its       
course1 be conducted on to the end of   
the beam4 ,it can then be trained along 
the top of it until it comes to the     
point from which the drum is to hang4   
,here there must be a hole drilled1     
large enough to admit the hook rather   
tightly4 ,pull the double wire through  
and fasten the two wires to the hooks as
 before described4  ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #f4--;,,hook ,,from ,,which ,,to 
,,suspend ,,the ,,magic ,,drum4  ,now   
you can pull back the wire and fix the  

hook firmly in the hole1 hiding the     
double wire at the top of the beam 7of  
course if it is high up no one will be  
able to see over the top of the beam1 so
 you will be quite safe72 the hook being
 thus fixed will not attract any one's  
notice1 and look quite unsuspicious4    
,the chief glory of the double hook thus
 constructed is1 of course1 that you can
 remove the drum whenever you choose1   
for examination1 and whenever you hang  
it up you have only to hitch one eye    
over one side of the hook and the other 
over the other side1 and the drum will  
work4 ,people who are not up in the     
matter cannot conceive how the          
electricity can get to the drum1 when it
 is simply hung by an 7apparently7      
ordinary cord and ordinary eyes to what 
looks like an ordinary hook attached to 
a beam in a plain and straightforward   
manner4  ,you are now possessed of an   
electric trumpet and an electric drum1  
which you can put one at one end of the 
room and the other at the other4 ,by    

running double wires from battery and   
press to the trumpet1 and another double
 wire from battery and press to the     
drum1 you can arrange matters so that   
when you put one press down the trumpet 
works1 and when the other press is put  
down the drum works4 ,if you want to    
work both together you must either have 
a very powerful battery 7say #f or #g   
cells1 ,no4 #b ,lechlanche7 or two      
batteries1 one for trumpet and one for  
drum4 ,if you want to use one battery   
for both you can make either work 7at   
different times7 from the same battery  
and presses1 wherever they may be1 by   
having a two-way switch in a dark corner
 of the wire4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4    
#g4--,,method ,,of ,,joining ,,switch   
,,drum ,,and ,,trumpet ,,to ,,press     
,,and ,,battery4  ,it is very confusing 
business setting up the wires so as to  
produce the right effect1 which is to   
change the current from drum to trumpet 
and vice versa in a moment by merely    
altering the handle of the switch4      

,readers who are not accustomed to the  
work will find it most intricate1 and as
 ,i have done it myself several times1  
they may as well have the benefit of my 
trouble4 ,i therefore give an           
illustration of how to connect up the   
wires 7,fig4 #g71 and hope it will make 
matters clear to them4 ,an explanation  
of the picture is necessary4  ,suppose  
first of all that the switch is at ,a   
,c1 then the current will travel from   
the right-hand end of the battery1 ,b1  
up one wire of the double conductor to  
the press1 ,p1 as shown by the lower    
arrow1 through the press and along the  
wire1 as shown by the top arrow1 to the 
middle of the switch1 ,a1 down the arm  
of the switch to ,c1 up one wire of the 
double conductor to the drum1 and down  
by the other wire to the other end of   
the battery4  ,now let the handle of the
 switch be moved to the other terminal1 
as shown by the dotted lines4 ,the      
current will now go from the right-hand 
end of the battery to press and center  

of switch as before1 it then goes down  
the arm of the switch up to the trumpet 
by the wire on the left side1 and down  
to the other end of the battery by the  
wire on the right side1 as shown by the 
arrows4 ,therefore when the arm of the  
switch is at ,a ,c the press will work  
the drum2 when it is at ,a ,g the press 
will work the trumpet4  ,suppose we have
 no press1 but instead of it we have    
only one wire going straight from the   
right-hand end of the battery to the    
middle of the switch4 ,now let two      
incandescent lamps be substituted for   
the trumpet and drum4 ,when the arm of  
the switch is at ,a ,c the current goes 
straight up from the right-hand pole of 
the battery to the center of the switch1
 along the arm1 up to the lamp on the   
left-hand side1 and down to the other   
pole of the battery4 ,now1 suppose the  
arm of the switch is moved to ,a ,g1 the
 current will go up as before to the    
center of the switch1 down by the arm1  
up the wire to the lamp on the          

right-hand side1 and back to the battery
 by the other wire4 ,in the first case1 
therefore1 the lamp at ,d lights up1 in 
the second case the lamp at ,t lights   
up4 ,the wires from ,c to ,d and ,g to  
,t may be as long as you please1 you can
 therefore control the lamps when they  
are far apart or in different parts of  
the house4 ,when the arm of the switch  
is central neither lamp lights up1 or1  
if you are fitting up the trumpet and   
drum1 the press will not work either    
when the switch is in this position4    
,this is an advantage1 as when people   
get too inquisitive you can turn off the
 current1 and then whatever they do they
 will not make the trumpet or drum work 
till you turn it on again1 which you can
 do when you want them to work for you6 
,the construction of the switch is so   
simple that it is hardly necessary to   
explain the method of joining the wires1
 but ,i may say that one is to be joined
 to the bottom of the brass pillar in   
the center which supports the brass arm4

 ,the others are joined to the right and
 left terminals1 generally by brass     
screws under the base1 but sometimes by 
screw terminals at the upper surface2   
this depends on the make of switch which
 is purchased4  ,ingenious readers can  
easily make a switch for themselves2 it 
only requires a brass arm attached at   
one end to a central figure1 and long   
enough to touch two screws1 or pieces of
 brass1 fixed to the base on opposite   
sides of it1 when turned in their       
direction4 ,the end of the arm not      
supported by the brass pillar is        
provided with a small wooden handle to  
turn it by4  ,the switch should be      
arranged to occupy some dark corner in  
which you can turn on drum or trumpet to
 work from the presses at will without  
any one seeing you alter it4  ,i will   
only add one thing in conclusion1 and   
that is1 that you can have the double   
wire from the battery and center of     
switch to the press at the end as long  
as you like1 and it can turn about      

behind furniture or under the carpet as 
much as you like1 and it will still work
 instantly from the end press4  ,now1 by
 scraping the wire clean at any         
intermediate point1 or as many points as
 you like1 and arranging a simple spring
 contact fastened to the wires without  
breaking them so that they can be made  
to touch when required and spring apart 
directly the touch is removed 7this is  
easily done with two springs consisting 
of two strips of sheet brass1 one       
fastened to one wire and one to the     
other1 separated by a piece of wood     
except at the end when pressed          
together71 you can make the trumpet     
squeak or the drum roll at any part of  
the room you like4 ,the springs can be  
hidden under the carpet so as to be     
absolutely undiscernible except to the  
initiated4 ,the best places are under   
furniture with rather long legs2 the    
foot of the operator can then be placed 
on the springs1 and so make them meet   
and the trumpet or drum sound without   

the least chance of detection4 ,the     
wires not being broken in fixing the    
springs as described1 those springs     
which are closer to the battery1 in no  
way interfere with those which are      
further off1 as1 when these are used1   
the current simply runs round those that
 intervene between them and the battery1
 without being in any way hindered in   
its course1 and the press at the end of 
the double wire will1 therefore1 work   
just as if no intermediate springs      
existed4     ,simple ,electrical        
,experiments4   ,frictional electricity 
is pre-eminently a winter amusement4    
,not that it is not equally possible to 
produce the same result in summer1 but  
then other occupations are forced upon  
us1 while in the long winter evenings1  
with a good fire to dry the air of the  
sitting-room1 the conditions are        
particularly favorable to electrical    
phenomena4 ,if a hard frost sets in the 
conditions will be still more favorable1
 as this dries the air and the ground   

outside1 while on a wet evening a large 
fire and warmer room will be needed to  
produce as good results4  ,illustration3
 ,,fig4 #a4--;,,electric ,,windmill ,,or
 ,,tourniquet4  ,the following          
experiments are given as a means of     
amusement to those who know little or   
nothing of electrical phenomena4 ,some  
of them may be recognized by some       
readers as being standard experiments1  
others may possess the charm of novelty4
 ,to many1 however1 the whole series    
will be new1 and it is hoped that these 
will find a new source of interest      
opened to them1 and that they may       
possibly be impelled thereby to         
investigate further concerning the      
causes of what they see4 ,frictional    
electrical machines can be purchased    
from any electrical instrument makers1  
at a small price1 and with these        
experiments mentioned are more readily  
performed4 ,in this article ,i only     
mention experiments that can be         
performed with materials to be found in 

every house1 or the necessaries for     
which can be procured from a shop for a 
nominal sum4 ,friction between two      
substances of any sort probably always  
produces electricity2 but it can only be
 made visible under certain             
circumstances4  ,for instance1 if a     
stick of sealing-wax is warmed and      
rubbed with a piece of flannel also     
warm1 they both become electrified4     
,this may be proved by holding the wax  
near an electrometer1 which is simply a 
bottle through the cork of which a wire 
is passed which has two pieces of gold  
leaf fastened to its extremity1 when the
 leaves at once diverge owing to the    
repelling force of the electricity4 ,the
 flannel is also electrified1 but the   
electricity soon escapes1 through the   
hand of the operator to the ground4  ,we
 now proceed to make a simple experiment
 on the production of electricity on a  
larger scale4 ,take a piece of stout    
brown paper and hold it in front of a   
hot fire till all the moisture inherent 

in it is expelled1 and the paper is dry 
and quite hot4 ,now take it away        
suddenly1 and holding it against the    
side of the coat rub it briskly with the
 sleeve by holding the sleeve in the    
hand4 ,take it away and hold it against 
the wall of the room1 to which it will  
instantly adhere firmly1 this adherence 
being caused by the development of      
electricity over the surface of the     
brown paper by the friction it has      
undergone4 ,the paper can be removed    
from the wall1 and on holding it at a   
short distance will fly towards it and  
adhere again4 ,in a short time1 however1
 the electricity departs1 and the paper 
falls to the ground4 ,if the hand is    
spread open upon the paper as it sticks1
 the electricity departs at once and the
 paper falls4 ,a spark can be obtained  
from the paper1 but it is hardly strong 
enough to be visible4 ,in the next      
experiment1 however1 it is plainly to be
 seen4  ,take an ordinary tea-tray and  
place it on the top of four glass       

tumblers1 which must have previously    
been made quite hot and dry at the fire4
 ,they must also be scrupulously clean1 
as dirt is a good conductor of          
electricity4 ,now take a sheet of       
foolscap paper1 and heat it strongly at 
the fire until perfectly dry1 as the    
brown paper was4 ,place it while hot    
flat on the table and rub it from side  
to side1 from the top to the bottom1    
with a piece of thick india-rubber4 ,it 
will now adhere firmly to the table on  
account of the electricity developed4   
,take hold of two corners1 pull it up1  
and quickly place it on the tray4 ,on   
approaching the knuckle of your closed  
hand to the edge of the tray you will   
now obtain a brilliant spark1 which1 if 
the room is dark1 will appear vivid4 ,on
 removing the paper from the tray1 and  
again approaching the knuckle1 another  
spark will pass1 but not so bright as   
the former4 ,the experiment can be      
repeated as often as wished by heating  
and rubbing the paper again4  ,now take 

four more tumblers1 heat them as before1
 and place them on the floor with a     
board on the top of them4 ,let someone  
stand on this board1 taking care that he
 is completely separated from all       
surrounding objects of furniture1 etc41 
and that his clothes do not touch the   
table while the experiment is performed4
 ,let him place his hand on the tray    
while the paper is heated1 rubbed1 and  
placed thereon4  ,he will then become   
charged with electricity1 and if he     
approaches his hand to any one else's a 
spark will pass between them4 7,this    
should not be done with susceptible     
parts of the body1 the eyes for example1
 as it would be rather painful47 ,let   
some one be provided with a spoon in    
which a little methylated spirit is     
heated2 if the charged person holds his 
knuckle to this spirit it will instantly
 be ignited4 ,small pieces of           
paper--comic paper figures1 etc4--will  
dance up and down briskly if he holds   
his hand outspread over them while lying

 on the table4 ,the same thing will     
happen if the pieces of paper are placed
 between the tray and the table when the
 former is charged by the hot paper1 or 
if the brown paper in the first         
experiment is held above them when      
excited4  ,now take a needle and place  
it on the tray1 its point projecting    
over the edge4 ,if the room is now      
darkened1 on placing the excited paper  
on the tray1 the point of the needle    
will be seen to glow brilliantly for    
some seconds4 ,this is caused by the    
electricity escaping into the air from  
the point of the needle1 and is known as
 the brush discharge4 ,the tray will    
consequently speedily lose its          
electricity4 ,it will be found to be    
impossible to get a spark from the tray 
as long as the needle is on it1 as the  
electricity vastly prefers to escape by 
the point4 ,the escape of the           
electricity may be rendered still more  
evident by means of the following piece 
of apparatus4  ,take two pieces of thin 

wire about two inches long1 and bend    
each at right angles about an eighth of 
an inch from each end1 both the bent    
portions being in the same direction4   
,these two pieces of wire are now to be 
joined together at the middle at right  
angles by means of a piece of finer wire
 twisted around them4 ,this finer wire  
can1 with a little care1 be caused to   
form a small cap1 in which the point of 
a needle is inserted1 the needle acting 
as a pivot1 so that the bent wires turn 
freely on top of it 7,fig4 #a74 ,the    
needle is supported by thrusting it into
 a large cork to act as a stand4  ,a    
fine wire is then twisted several times 
around the bottom of the needle1 and the
 whole apparatus is then placed on the  
tray1 the end of the wire attached to   
the needle being carefully arranged so  
as to touch the tray1 a metallic        
connection with the tray being essential
 to success4 ,if the needle can be      
soldered to a metal stand1 or the cork  
covered with tinfoil1 the wire is not   

needed4 ,on rubbing the paper and       
placing it on the tray1 the electricity 
passes up the wire into the needle1     
thence into the wire cross1 and escapes 
by the bent portions of the wires1 each 
of which should be filed to a point4 ,in
 escaping it electrifies the surrounding
 air1 and this1 according to the law    
that like electricities repel each      
other1 has a reacting force on the wire 
arms4 ,accordingly the windmill begins  
to turn1 and may attain a tolerable rate
 of speed if the tray is strongly       
charged4  ,another amusing experiment is
 that known as the electrical head of   
hair4 ,the head of a wooden doll is     
taken1 and either provided with a real  
head of hair1 which must be combed out  
straight1 or a quantity of cotton is    
fastened to it to resemble hair4  ,if   
the head is fastened to a metal stand1  
and placed on the tray when the excited 
paper is laid upon it1 the hairs become 
charged1 and consequently repel each    
other1 causing the whole head of hair to

 stand erect1 each hair separate from   
the rest1 thus presenting a most        
remarkable appearance4 ,for the same    
reason1 if a heap of small pieces of    
paper1 feathers1 etc41 is laid on the   
tray1 on placing upon it the electrified
 paper they will jump off in all        
directions1 each being repelled by the  
others1 in the same way as the gold     
leaves of the electroscope were repelled
 in the first experiment4 ,if two pieces
 of pith are suspended by silk threads  
to a support1 so as to hang close to    
each other1 on bringing near them the   
electrified wax or tray they will be    
charged and will repel each other for   
some time4 ,if when charged by the wax a
 heated glass rod rubbed with silk is   
brought near to them1 they will fly to  
it1 instead of retreating4 ,this seems  
to indicate a difference between the    
electricities of the wax and the glass1 
the former of which has therefore been  
called negative1 and the latter         
positive4  ,for giving stronger shocks  

than the tray is capable of1 we may have
 recourse to the apparatus known as the 
,leyden jar1 which may be easily charged
 by means of the tray and excited paper4
 ,a ,leyden jar is thus easily and      
cheaply constructed3 ,take an ordinary  
wide-mouthed pickle bottle and a cork to
 fit it4 ,cover the outside with        
tinfoil1 which can be fastened on with  
gum1 and should be laid on as smoothly  
and as free from creases as possible4   
,tinfoil can be procured from any       
chemist4 ,the outside being finished1   
the inside has to be covered also1 which
 is a work of greater difficulty4 ,it   
can best be performed by cutting another
 piece not quite so large as that on the
 outside of the bottle but of the same  
shape1 and passing into the bottle      
without creasing it more than can be    
helped1 it can be arranged inside the   
bottle so as to fit smoothly all round4 
,now a piece of brass wire is to be     
passed through the cork1 at the end of  
which is a brass knob1 or if simply bent

 round it will work1 though the knob is 
neater4 ,at the end of the wire which is
 inside the bottle a brass chain is     
fastened so as to touch the tinfoil     
inside the bottle when the cork is      
inserted4 ,the tinfoil inside and       
outside the bottle must only reach to   
the bottom of the neck1 leaving a space 
between it and the cork4  ,the ,leyden  
jar is now complete1 and must be        
thoroughly warmed before charging it4   
,when quite hot it can be charged by    
bringing the knob 7the jar being held by
 the outer coating of tinfoil7 near the 
tray1 when the excited paper is laid    
upon it4 ,a spark will pass between the 
tray and the knob1 and this must be     
repeated several times 7say twenty for a
 first experiment71 the jar being       
charged more fully the more sparks are  
put into it4 ,any one now taking the jar
 in one hand by the outer coating and   
placing a finger of the other hand near 
the knob will receive a shock1 the      
severity of which depends on the number 

of sparks put into the jar4 ,several    
people can take the shock by joining    
hands1 the outside one on one side      
holding the jar1 and the outside one on 
the other side touching the knob4 ,those
 in the middle will not feel the shock  
quite so strongly as those on the       
outside4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4         
#b4--;,,bells ,,chimed ,,by ,a ,,leyden 
,,jar4  ,this is an example of the quick
 discharge of a ,leyden jar4 ,it can1   
however1 also be discharged slowly1 and 
the following experiment makes use of   
this faculty4 ,take three small bells1  
which can be procured at any toy shop1  
and remove the clappers4 ,now suspend   
two of them by wires at opposite ends of
 a piece of metal or stout wire about   
three inches long1 and suspend this wire
 in the center by a bent wire 7or       
wooden1 if covered with tinfoil7        
support1 which is fixed to a thick piece
 of board1 covered with tinfoil1 to act 
as a base4  ,the tinfoil must be in     
communication with the supporting wire1 

and the height of the bells must be so  
adjusted that when the ,leyden jar is   
placed between them with the third bell 
supported on the knob 7the support of   
the clapper will have to be removed from
 the bell for this purpose71 all three  
bells will be of equal heights and about
 half an inch distant from each other4  
7,the diagram ,fig4 #b will explain the 
arrangement47 ,now suspend two small    
brass buttons by silk threads so as to  
hang between the bells when the ,leyden 
jar is placed in the center4 ,charge the
 jar with the tray and replace it in    
position 7of course with the bell on the
 top72 the buttons will then begin to   
move backwards and forwards between the 
bells1 and the latter will keep up a    
vigorous chiming until the electricity  
of the jar is exhausted4 ,in this       
experiment it is essential that the     
supports be of metal1 or wood covered   
with tinfoil1 as the electricity passes 
from the inside of the jar to the       
outside while it is standing upon the   

tinfoil1 by means of the balls1 and thus
 causes them to vibrate4  ,a candle     
which has just been blown out1 leaving  
the wick glowing1 can easily be lighted 
by means of the charged ,leyden jar if a
 piece of bent wire is held touching the
 outer coating and the other end on one 
side of the wick while the knob is      
approached to the other1 so that the    
spark passes through the glowing wick4  
,in the same way spirits of wine can be 
lighted1 and gunpowder1 guncotton1 etc41
 exploded4 ,to do this1 it is best to   
have two pieces of bent wire provided   
with handles of glass at the middle4    
,these wires are held by the handles1   
one in contact with the outer coating1  
and the other with the inner coating1 of
 the charged ,leyden jar4 ,on           
approaching the other two ends of the   
wires a spark passes between them1 and  
if a small quantity of gunpowder is     
placed on a table and the spark is made 
to pass through it by approaching the   
wire to either side it will be fired4   

,there are many other experiments which 
can be performed by the help of the     
simple apparatus described1 but it would
 take up too much space to describe     
them4  ,illustration3 ,,the ,,end4      
,,the ,,largest ,,and ,,best ,,library4 
,,pluck ,,and ,,luck4  ,colored ,covers4
 #cb ,pages4 ,all ,kinds of ,good       
,stories4 ,price #e ,cents4 ,issued     
,weekly4 ,read ,list ,below4   ,no4     
#a ,dick ,decker1 the ,brave ,young     
,fireman         by ,ex ,fire ,chief    
,warden    #b ,the ,two ,boy ,brokers2  
or1 ,from ,messenger ,boys to           
,millionaires                           
by a ,retired ,banker    #c ,little     
,lou1 the ,pride of the ,continental    
,army4 ,a ,story of the       ,american 
,revolution                      by     
,general ,jas4 ,a4 ,gordon    #d        
,railroad ,ralph1 the ,boy ,engineer    
by ,jas4 ,c4 ,merritt    #e ,the ,boy   
,pilot of ,lake ,michigan               
by ,capt4 ,thos4 ,h4 ,wilson    #f ,joe 
,wiley1 the ,young ,temperance ,lecturer

              by ,jno4 ,b ,dowd    #g   
,the ,little ,swamp ,fox4 ,a ,tale of   
,general ,marion and ,his ,men          
by ,general ,jas4 ,a4 ,gordon    #h     
,young ,grizzly ,adams1 the ,wild ,beast
 ,tamer4 ,a ,true ,story of ,circus     
,life                                   
by ,hal ,standish    #i ,north ,pole    
,nat2 or1 ,the ,secret of the ,frozen   
,deep                                   
by ,capt4 ,thos4 ,h4 ,wilson   #aj      
,little ,deadshot1 the ,pride of the    
,trappers           by ,an ,old ,scout  
#aa ,liberty ,hose2 or1 ,the ,pride of  
,plattsville   by ,ex ,fire ,chief      
,warden   #ab ,engineer ,steve1 the     
,prince of the ,rail            by ,jas4
 ,c4 ,merritt   #ac ,whistling ,walt the
 ,champion ,spy4 ,a ,story of the       
,american       ,revolution             
by ,general ,jas4 ,a4 ,gordon   #ad     
,lost in the ,air2 or1 ,over ,land and  
,sea               by ,allyn ,draper    
#ae ,the ,little ,demon2 or1 ,plotting  
,against the ,czar     by ,howard       

,austin   #af ,fred ,farrell1 the       
,barkeeper's ,son                    by 
,jno4 ,b4 ,dowd   #ag ,slippery ,steve1 
the ,cunning ,spy of the ,revolution    
by ,general ,jas4 ,a4 ,gordon   #ah     
,fred ,flame1 the ,hero of ,greystone   
,no4 #a      by ,ex ,fire ,chief ,warden
   #ai ,harry ,dare2 or1 ,a ,new ,york  
,boy in the ,navy      by ,col4 ,ralph  
,fenton   #bj ,jack ,quick1 the ,boy    
,engineer                      by ,jas4 
,c4 ,merritt   #ba ,doublequick1 the    
,king ,harpooner2 or1 ,the ,wonder of   
the ,whalers                            
by ,capt4 ,thos4 ,h4 ,wilson   #bb      
,rattling ,rube1 the ,jolly ,scout and  
,spy4 ,a ,story of the ,revolution      
by ,general ,jas4 ,a4 ,gordon   #bc ,in 
the ,czar's ,service2 or ,dick ,sherman 
in ,russia    by ,howard ,austin   #bd  
,ben o' the ,bowl2 or ,the ,road to     
,ruin                 by ,jno4 ,b4 ,dowd
   #be ,kit ,carson1 the ,king of       
,scouts                       by an ,old
 ,scout   #bf ,the ,school ,boy         

,explorers1 or ,among the ,ruins of     
,yucatan                                
by ,howard ,austin   #bg ,the ,wide     
,awakes2 or1 ,burke ,halliday1 the      
,pride of the ,volunteers               
by ,ex ,fire ,chief ,warden   #bh ,the  
,frozen ,deep2 or1 ,two ,years in the   
,ice   by ,capt4 ,thos4 ,h4 ,wilson     
#bi ,the ,swamp ,rats2 or1 ,the ,boys   
,who ,fought for ,washington            
by ,gen4 ,jas4 ,a4 ,gordon   #cj ,around
 the ,world on ,cheek                   
by ,howard ,austin   #ca ,bushwhacker   
,ben2 or1 ,the ,union ,boys of          
,tennessee                              
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,great ,detective ,stories4  ,handsomely
 ,decorated ,covers4  ,issued ,weekly4  
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 of ,old ,king ,brady1 the ,great       
,detective1 assisted by ,young ,king    
,brady1 his faithful young pupil4       
,embracing the most daring adventures1  
startling scenes and hairbreadth escapes
 ever published4   ,,read ,,the         
,,following ,,list4   #a4 ,the ,black   
,band2 or1 ,the ,two ,king ,bradys      
,against a ,hard ,gang4  #b4 ,told by   
the ,ticker2 or1 ,the ,two ,king ,bradys
 on a ,wall ,street ,case4  #c4 ,the    
,bradys ,after a ,million2 or1 ,their   
,chase to ,save an ,heiress4  #d4 ,the  
,bradys' ,great ,bluff2 or1 ,a ,bunco   
,game that ,failed to ,work4  #e4 ,in   
and ,out2 or1 ,the ,two ,king ,bradys on
 a ,lively ,chase4  ,for sale by all    
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,new ,york4     ,,our #aj ,,cent ,,hand 
,,books4  ,,useful1 ,,instructive ,,and 
,,amusing4   ,containing valuable       
information on almost every subject1    
such as ,writing1 ,speaking1 ,dancing1  

,cooking2 also1 ,rules of ,etiquette1   
,the ,art of ,ventriloquism1 ,gymnastic 
,exercises1 and ,the ,science of        
,self-,defense1 etc41 etc4    #a        
,,napoleon',s ,,oraculum ,,and ,,dream  
,,book4   #b ,,how ,,to ,,do ,,tricks4  
#c ,,how ,,to ,,flirt4   #d ,,how ,,to  
,,dance4   #e ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,love4 
#f ,,how ,,to ,,become ,,an ,,athlete4  
#g ,,how ,,to ,,keep ,,birds4   #h ,,how
 ,,to ,,become ,a ,,scientist4   #i     
,,how ,,to ,,become ,a ,,ventriloquist4 
#aj ,,how ,,to ,,box4  #aa ,,how ,,to   
,,write ,,love ,,letters4  #ab ,,how    
,,to ,,write ,,letters ,,to ,,ladies4   
#ac ,,how ,,to ,,do ,,it2 ,,or1 ,,book  
,,of ,,etiquette4  #ad ,,how ,,to ,,make
 ,,candy4  #ae ,,how ,,to ,,become      
,,rich4  #af ,,how ,,to ,,keep ,a       
,,window ,,garden4  #ag ,,how ,,to      
,,dress4  #ah ,,how ,,to ,,become       
,,beautiful4  #ai ,,frank ,,tousey',s   
,u4 ,s4 ,,distance ,,tables1 ,,pocket   
,,companion ,,and ,,guide4  #bj ,,how   
,,to ,,entertain ,,an ,,evening ,,party4

  #ba ,,how ,,to ,,hunt ,,and ,,fish4   
#bb ,,how ,,to ,,do ,,second ,,sight4   
#bc ,,how ,,to ,,explain ,,dreams4  #bd 
,,how ,,to ,,write ,,letters ,,to       
,,gentlemen4  #be ,,how ,,to ,,become ,a
 ,,gymnast4  #bf ,,how ,,to ,,row1      
,,sail ,,and ,,build ,a ,,boat4  #bg    
,,how ,,to ,,recite ,,and ,,book ,,of   
,,recitations4  #bh ,,how ,,to ,,tell   
,,fortunes4  #bi ,,how ,,to ,,become    
,,an ,,inventor4  #cj ,,how ,,to ,,cook4
  #ca ,,how ,,to ,,become ,a ,,speaker4 
#cb ,,how ,,to ,,ride ,a ,,bicycle4  #cc
 ,,how ,,to ,,behave4  #cd ,,how ,,to   
,,fence4  #ce ,,how ,,to ,,play ,,games4
  #cf ,,how ,,to ,,solve ,,conundrums4  
#cg ,,how ,,to ,,keep ,,house4  #ch     
,,how ,,to ,,become ,,your ,,own        
,,doctor4  #ci ,,how ,,to ,,raise       
,,dogs1 ,,poultry1 ,,pigeons ,,and      
,,rabbits4  #dj ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,and 
,,set ,,traps4  #da ,,the ,,boys ,,of   
,,new ,,york ,,end ,,men',s ,,joke      
,,book4  #db ,,the ,,boys ,,of ,,new    
,,york ,,stump ,,speaker4  #dc ,,how    

,,to ,,become ,a ,,magician4  #dd ,,how 
,,to ,,write ,,in ,,an ,,album4  #de    
,,the ,,boys ,,of ,,new ,,york          
,,minstrel ,,guide ,,and ,,joke ,,book4 
#df ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,and ,,use       
,,electricity4  #dg ,,how ,,to ,,break1 
,,ride ,,and ,,drive ,a ,,horse4  #dh   
,,how ,,to ,,build ,,and ,,sail         
,,canoes4  #di ,,how ,,to ,,debate4  #ej
 ,,how ,,to ,,stuff ,,birds ,,and       
,,animals4  #ea ,,how ,,to ,,do ,,tricks
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,,letters4  #ed ,,how ,,to ,,keep ,,and 
,,manage ,,pets4  #ee ,,how ,,to        
,,collect ,,stamps ,,and ,,coins4  #ef  
,,how ,,to ,,become ,,an ,,engineer4    
#eg ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,musical         
,,instruments4  #eh ,,how ,,to ,,become 
,a ,,detective4  #ei ,,how ,,to ,,make  
,a ,,magic ,,lantern4  #fj ,,how ,,to   
,,become ,a ,,photographer4  #fa ,,how  
,,to ,,become ,a ,,bowler4  #fb ,,how   
,,to ,,become ,a ,,west ,,point         
,,military ,,cadet4  #fc ,,how ,,to     

,,become ,a ,,naval ,,cadet4  #fd ,,how 
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#fe ,,muldoon',s ,,jokes4  #ff ,,how    
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,,do ,,electrical ,,tricks4  #fh ,,how  
,,to ,,do ,,chemical ,,tricks4  #fi     
,,how ,,to ,,do ,,sleight ,,of ,,hand4  
#gj ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,magic ,,toys4   
#ga ,,how ,,to ,,do ,,mechanical        
,,tricks4  #gb ,,how ,,to ,,do ,,sixty  
,,tricks ,,with ,,cards4  #gc ,,how ,,to
 ,,do ,,tricks ,,with ,,numbers4  #gd   
,,how ,,to ,,write ,,letters            
,,correctly4  #ge ,,how ,,to ,,become ,a
 ,,conjurer4  #gf ,,how ,,to ,,tell     
,,fortunes ,,by ,,the ,,hand4  #gg ,,how
 ,,to ,,do ,,forty ,,tricks ,,with      
,,cards4  #gh ,,how ,,to ,,do ,,the     
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,send ,your ,name and ,address for ,our 

,latest ,illustrated ,catalogue4        
,,frank ,,tousey1 ,publisher1           
#bd ,,union ,,square1      ,,new ,,york4
           99      99      99      99   
99      99     ,transcriber's note3     
,every effort has been made to replicate
 this text as faithfully as             
possible4 ,some changes have been made4 
,they are listed at the end of     the  
text4      ,in the original book        
fractions #a were printed in the form #a
 #c-h4     ,this has been changed to the
 form #a-c_/h4 ,fourths and halves are  
represented as #a etc4      ,in the     
chapter ,how to ,make an ,induction     
,coil1 a section heading     ,,part ,i4 
was removed as there is no ,,part ,,ii4 
,the following is a list of changes made
 to the original4     ,the first line is
 the original line1 the second the      
corrected one4      ,page #aa3      ,it 
this can be done over night1     ,if    
this can be done over night1      and   
the coil left to get cold as the the    
fire goes out1     and the coil left to 

get cold as the fire goes out1          
,page #ab3      so as to leave about  of
 an inch of the core projectiug from it1
     so as to leave about  of an inch of
 the core projecting from it1      ,page
 #ad3      unless you are skilled in the
 use of the soldiering bit4     unless  
you are skilled in the use of the       
soldering bit4      ,page #ae3          
twenty-five cents1 plantinum being a    
very expensive substance4               
twenty-five cents1 platinum being a very
 expensive substance4      the strip of 
brass supporting the strew being        
connected by a wire     the strip of    
brass supporting the screw being        
connected by a wire      ,page #af3     
below these places narrow strips of wood
 to keep them apart     below these     
place narrow strips of wood to keep them
 apart      ,page #ag3      is filled   
with suturated solution of sulphate of  
copper     is filled with saturated     
solution of sulphate of copper          
,page #ah3      shock to any one who    

holds two handles fixed to his          
terminals4     shock to any one who     
holds two handles fixed to its          
terminals4      ,page #ai3      deal #e 
inches long ay #c inches broad by #g_/h 
inch thick4     deal #e inches long by  
#c inches broad by #g_/h inch thick4    
,page #bc3      by filling four small   
notches in the soft iron of the armuatre
     by filing four small notches in the
 soft iron of the armature      ,page   
#bd3      ,to do this we shall wants two
 supports for the axle4 ,these     ,to  
do this we shall want two supports for  
the axle4 ,these      ,page #bh3        
the base and loined to the under part of
 these binding-screws4     the base and 
joined to the under part of these       
binding-screws4      ,page #cc3      for
 the current to get round the magnet in 
sufficicent quantity     for the current
 to get round the magnet in sufficient  
quantity      ,page #cd3      ,these are
 all made she same size1 and            
consequently it is unnecessary          

,these are all made the same size1 and  
consequently it is unnecessary          
,page #cf3      ,the following is as    
good away of arranging it as any3       
,the following is as good a way of      
arranging it as any3      ,page #db3    
to the uninitated friend to whom you are
 displaying the doll1     to the        
uninitiated friend to whom you are      
displaying the doll1      ,in front of  
the conopy you can paint a monogram or  
heraldic device4     ,in front of the   
canopy you can paint a monogram or      
heraldic device4      what our          
grandmothers would have though of them  
in their young days     what our        
grandmothers would have thought of them 
in their young days      ,page #dd3     
,c1 ,bras support for magnet4     ,c1   
,brass support for magnet4      and here
 comes in the especal advantages of     
having screws     and here comes in the 
especial advantages of having screws    
,page #df3      taking the wire when    
joined as one1-it must be so wound      

taking the wire when joined as one1 it  
must be so wound      ,page #dg3      is
 pulled tightly and left in a loop1     
which would look untidy4     is pulled  
tightly and not left in a loop1 which   
would look untidy4      ,page #ea3      
you will1 of course1 be rewerded by more
 noise4     you will1 of course1 be     
rewarded by more noise4      ,page #eb3 
,now we want to construct a hook ro     
which the drum can be hung4     ,now we 
want to construct a hook from which the 
drum can be hung4      ,page #ee3       
,suppose we have no press4 but instead  
of it we have only one wire     ,suppose
 we have no press1 but instead of it we 
have only one wire      ,when the arm of
 the switch is at ,a ,c the currrent    
goes straight up     ,when the arm of   
the switch is at ,a ,c the current goes 
straight up      ,page #eh3      this   
adherence peing caused by the           
development of electricity     this     
adherence being caused by the           
development of electricity      ,this   

should not be done with suspectible     
parts of the body1     ,this should not 
be done with susceptible parts of the   
body1      ,page #ei3      ,it will we  
found to be impossible to get a spark   
from the tray     ,it will be found to  
be impossible to get a spark from the   
tray      bend each at right angles     
about an eight of an inch from each end1
     bend each at right angles about an 
eighth of an inch from each end1        
,page #fb3      will then begin to move 
backwards and forwards betweens the     
bells1     will then begin to move      
backwards and forwards between the      
bells1      the tinfoil1 by means of the
 balls1 and thus causes them to vibrate4
     the tinfoil1 by means of the bells1
 and thus causes them to vibrate4