file which includes the original illustrations4 ,see #ddbbh-;h4htm or #ddbbh-;h4zip3 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/cache_/epu b_/#ddbbh_/pg#ddbbh-;images4html7 or 7https3_/_/www4gutenberg4org_/files_/#dd bbh_/ddbbh-;h4zip7 ,images of the original pages are available through ,internet ,archive4 ,see https3_/_/archive4org_/details_/boatbuil dingboat#jj;bear ,transcriber's note3 ,text enclosed by underscores is in italics 7italics74 ,text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face 7bold74 ,a carat character is used to denote superscription4 ,a character enclosed by curly brackets following the carat is superscripted example3 ,a#a4 ,,boat-,,building ,,and ,,boating ,illustration3 ,bound for a good time ,,boat-,,building ,,and ,,boating by ,d4 ,c4 ,,beard ,with ,many ,illustrations by the ,author ,new ,york ,charles ,scribner's ,sons #aica ,copyright1 #aiaa1 by ,charles ,scribner's ,sons ,printed in the ,united ,states of ,america ,special ,notice ,all the material in this book1 both text and cuts1 is original with the author and invented by him2 and warning is hereby given that the unauthorized printing of any portion of the text and the reproduction of any of the illustrations or diagrams are expressly forbidden4 ,illustration3 ,the ,scribner ,press ,,affectionately ,,dedicated ,,to ,,the ,,memory ,,of ,,tom ,,and ,,hi ,,preface ,,this is not a book for yacht-builders1 but it is intended for beginners in the art of boat-building1 for boys and men who wish to make something with which they may navigate the waters of ponds1 lakes1 or streams4 ,it begins with the most primitive crafts composed of slabs or logs and works up to scows1 house-boats1 skiffs1 canoes and simple forms of sailing craft1 a motor-boat1 and there it stops4 ,there are so many books and magazines devoted to the higher arts of ship-building for the graduates to use1 besides the many manufacturing houses which furnish all the parts of a sail-boat1 yacht1 or motor-boat for the ambitious boat-builder to put together himself1 that it is unnecessary for the author to invade that territory4 ,many of the designs in this book have appeared in magazines to which the author contributed1 or in his own books on general subjects1 and all these have been successfully built by hundreds of boys and men4 ,many of them are the author's own inventions1 and the others are his own adaptations of well-known and long-tried models4 ,in writing and collecting this material for boat-builders from his other works and placing them in one volume1 the author feels that he is fulfilling the wishes of many of his old readers and offering a useful book to a large audience of new recruits to the army of those who believe in the good old ,american doctrine of3 ,if you want a thing done1 do it yourself4 ,and by doing it yourself you not only add to your skill and resourcefulness1 but1 what is even more important1 you develop your own self-reliance and manhood4 ,no one man can think of everything connected with any one subject1 and the author gratefully acknowledges his indebtedness to several sportsmen friends1 especially to his camp-mate1 ,mr4 ,f4 ,k4 ,vreeland1 and his young friend1 ,mr4 ,samuel ,jackson1 for suggestions of great value to both writer and reader4 ,,dan ,,beard4 ,,flushing1 ,l4 ,i41 ,sept41 #aiaa4 ,,contents ,,chapter ,,page ,i4 ,,how ,,to ,,cross ,a ,,stream ,,on ,a ,,log #c ,,ii4 ,,home-,,made ,,boats #h ,,iii4 ,a ,,raft ,,that ,,will ,,sail #ah ,,iv4 ,,canoes #be ,v4 ,,canoes ,,and ,,boating ,,stunts #cc ,,vi4 ,,the ,,birch-,,bark #dh ,,vii4 ,,how ,,to ,,build ,a ,,paddling ,,dory #fi ,,viii4 ,,the ,,landlubber',s ,,chapter #gd ,,ix4 ,,how ,,to ,,rig ,,and ,,sail ,,small ,,boats #if ,x4 ,,more ,,rigs ,,of ,,all ,,kinds ,,for ,,small ,,boats #aaa ,,xi4 ,,knots1 ,,bends1 ,,and ,,hitches #abc ,,xii4 ,,how ,,to ,,build ,a ,,cheap ,,boat #aci ,,xiii4 ,a ,,rough-,,and-,,ready ,,boat #aed ,,xiv4 ,,how ,,to ,,build ,,cheap ,,and ,,substantial ,,house-,,boats #afc ,,xv4 ,a ,,cheap ,,and ,,speedy ,,motor-,,boat #ahd ,boat-,building and ,boating ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--,the logomaran4 ,,boat-,,building ,,and ,,boating ,,chapter ,i ,,how ,,to ,,cross ,a ,,stream ,,on ,a ,,log ,how to ,build a ,logomaran ,,there is a widespread notion that all wood will float on water1 and this idea often leads to laughable errors4 ,i know a lot of young backwoods farmers who launched a raft of green oak logs1 and were as much astonished to see their craft settle quietly to the bottom of the lake as they would have been to see the leaden sinkers of their fish-lines dance lightly on the surface of the waves4 ,the young fellows used a day's time to discover what they might have learned in a few moments by watching the chips sink when they struck the water as they flew from the skilful blows of their axes4 ,the stream which cuts your trail is not always provided with bridges of fallen trees4 ,it may be a river too deep to ford and too wide to be bridged by a chance log4 ,of course it is a simple matter to swim1 but the weather may be cold and the water still colder2 besides this1 you will probably be encumbered with a lot of camp equipage--your gun1 rod1 and camera--none of which will be improved by a plunge in the water4 ,or it may so happen that you are on the shores of a lake unsupplied with boats1 and you have good reasons for supposing that big fish lurk in some particular spot out of reach from the shore4 ,a thousand and one emergencies may arise when a craft of some kind will be not only a great convenience1 but almost a necessity4 ,under these circumstances ,a ,logomaran may be constructed in a very short time which can bear you and your pack safely to the desired goal 7,fig4 #a74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4--,the notch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4--,top view of logomaran4 ,in the ,rocky1 ,cascade1 and ,selkirk ,mountains1 the lakes and streams have their shores plentifully supplied with whim sticks1 logs of fine dry timber1 which the freshets have brought down from the mountain sides and which the rocks and surging torrents have denuded of bark4 ,these whim sticks are of all sizes1 and as sound and perfect as kiln-dried logs4 ,even in the mountains of ,pennsylvania1 where the lumberman's axe years ago laid waste the primeval forest1 where the saw-mills have devoured the second growth1 the tie-hunter the third growth1 the excelsior-mills and birch-beer factories the saplings1 ,i still find good sound white pine-log whim sticks strewn along the shores of the lakes and streams1 timber which is suitable for temporary rafts and logomarans4 ,in the ,north ,woods1 where in many localities the original forest is untouched by the devouring pulp-mills1 suitable timber is not difficult to find2 so let the green wood stand and select a log of dry wood from the shore where the floods or ice have deposited it4 ,cut it into a convenient length1 and with a lever made of a good stout sapling1 and a fulcrum of a stone or chunk of wood1 pry the log from its resting-place and roll it into the shallow water4 ,notch the log on the upper side1 as shown by ,fig4 #b1 making a notch near each end for the cross-pieces4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--;,flattened joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,fig4 #f4 ,matched joints4 ,the two side floats may be made of pieces split1 by the aid of wooden wedges1 from a large log1 or composed of small whim sticks1 as shown by ,fig4 #c4 ,the floats1 as may be seen by reference to ,figs4 #a and #c1 are shorter than the middle log4 ,it is impracticable to give dimensions1 for the reason that they are relative2 the length of the middle log depends1 to some extent1 upon its diameter1 it being evident that a thick log will support more than a thin one of the same length2 consequently if your log is of small diameter1 it must be longer1 in order to support your weight1 than will be necessary for a thicker piece of timber4 ,the point to remember is to select a log which will support you and your pack1 and then attach two side floats to balance your craft and prevent it from rolling over and dumping its load in the water4 ,an ordinary single shell-boat without a passenger will upset1 but when the oarsman takes his seat and grasps his long spoon oars1 the sweeps1 resting on the water1 balance the cranky craft1 and it cannot upset as long as the oars are kept there4 ,this is the principle of the logomaran1 as well as that of the common catamaran4 ,the cross-pieces should be only thick enough to be secure and long enough to prevent the log from wabbling and wetting your feet more than is necessary4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4--,the saw-buck crib4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4--,the staked crib4 ,if ,you ,have an ,auger and ,no ,nails the craft may be fastened together with wooden pegs cut somewhat larger than the holes bored to receive them1 and driven in with blows from your axe4 ,if you have long nails or spikes the problem is a simple one2 but if you have neither auger1 nails1 nor spikes you must bind the joints with rope or hempen twine4 ,if you have neither nails1 auger1 nor rope1 a good substitute for the latter can be made from the long1 ,fibrous ,inner ,bark of a dead or partly burned tree4 ,for experiment ,i took some of the inner bark of a chestnut-tree which had been killed by fire and twisted it into a rope the size of a clothes-line1 then ,i allowed two strong men to have a tug-of-war with it1 and the improvised rope was stronger than the men4 ,how to ,make a ,fibre ,rope ,take one end of a long1 loose strand of fibres1 give the other end to another person1 and let both twine the ends between the fingers until the material is well twisted throughout its entire length2 then bring the two ends together1 and two sides of the loop thus made will twist themselves into a cord or rope half the length of the original strand4 ,if you nail or peg the parts1 use your axe to flatten the joints by striking off a chip1 as in ,fig4 #d4 ,if you must lash the joints together1 cut them with log-cabin notches1 as in ,figs4 #e and #f4 ,if you have baggage to transport1 make ,a ,dunnage ,crib by driving four stakes in cuts made near the end of the centre log and binding them with rope or fibre 7,figs4 #g and #h71 or by working green twigs basket-fashion around them1 or make the rack saw-buck fashion1 as shown by ,fig4 #g1 and this will keep your things above water4 ,a couple of cleats nailed on each side of the log will be of great assistance and lessen the danger and insecurity of the footing4 ,a skilfully made logomaran will enable you to cross any stream with a moderate current and any small lake in moderate weather4 ,it is not an especially dry craft1 but it won't sink or upset1 and will take one but a short time to knock it together4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,home-,,made ,,boats ,birth of the ,man-,friday ,catamaran--,the ,crusoe ,raft and ,chump ,rafts ,,not so very many years ago ,i remember visiting1 in company with my cousin ,tom1 a small lake at the headwaters of the ,miami4 ,high and precipitous cliffs surround the little body of water4 ,so steep were the great weather-beaten rocks that it was only where the stream came tumbling down past an old mill that an accessible path then existed4 ,down that path ,tom and ,i scrambled1 for we knew that large bass lurked in the deep1 black holes among the rocks4 ,we had no jointed split-bamboo rods nor fancy tackle1 but the fish there in those days were not particular and seldom hesitated to bite at an angle-worm or grasshopper though the hook upon which the bait squirmed was suspended by a coarse line from a freshly cut hickory sapling4 ,even now ,i feel the thrill of excitement and expectancy as1 in imagination1 my pole is bent nearly double by the frantic struggles of those gamy black bass4 ,after spending the morning fishing we built a fire upon a short stretch of sandy beach1 and cleaning our fish and washing them in the spring close at hand1 we put them among the embers to cook4 ,while the fire was getting our dinner ready for us we threw off our clothes and plunged into the cool waters of the lake4 ,inexpert swimmers as we were at that time1 the opposite shore1 though apparently only a stone's throw distant1 was too far off for us to reach by swimming4 ,many a longing and curious glance we cast toward it1 however1 and strong was the temptation that beset us to try the unknown depths intervening4 ,a pair of brown ears appeared above the ferns near the water's edge1 and a fox peeped at us2 squirrels ran about the fallen trunks of trees or scampered up the rocks as saucily as though they understood that we could not swim well enough to reach their side of the lake2 and high up the face of the cliff was a dark spot which we almost knew to be the entrance to some mysterious cavern4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4--,the ,man-,friday4 ,how we longed for a boat6 ,but not even a raft nor a dugout could be seen anywhere upon the glassy surface of the water or along its rocky border4 ,we nevertheless determined to explore the lake next day1 even if we should have to paddle astride of a log4 ,the first rays of the morning sun had not reached the dark waters before my companion and ,i were hard at work1 with axe and hatchet1 chopping in twain a long log we had discovered near the mill4 ,we had at first intended to build a raft2 but gradually we evolved a sort of catamaran4 ,the two pieces of log we sharpened at the ends for the bow2 then we rolled the logs down upon the beach1 and while ,i went into the thicket to chop down some saplings my companion borrowed an auger from the miller4 ,we next placed the logs about three feet apart1 and marking the points where we intended to put the cross-pieces1 we cut notches there2 then we placed the saplings across1 fitting them into these notches4 ,to hold them securely we bored holes down through the sapling cross-pieces into the logs2 with the hatchet we hammered wooden pegs into these holes4 ,for the seat we used the half of a section of log1 the flat side fitting into places cut for that purpose4 ,all that remained to be done now was to make a seat in the stern and a pair of rowlocks4 ,at a proper distance from the oarsman's seat we bored two holes for a couple of forked sticks1 which answered admirably for rowlocks2 across the stern we fastened another piece of log similar to that used for the oarsman's seat 7,fig4 #h74 ,with the help of a man from the mill our craft was launched2 and with a pair of oars made of old pine boards we rowed off1 leaving the miller waving his hat4 ,our catamaran was not so light as a row-boat1 but it floated1 and we could propel it with the oars1 and1 best of all1 it was our own invention and made with our own hands4 ,we called it a ,man-,friday1 and by its means we explored every nook in the length and breadth of the lake2 and ever afterward when we wanted a boat we knew a simple and inexpensive way to make one--and a safe one1 too4 ,the ,crusoe ,raft is another rustic craft1 but it is of more ambitious dimensions than the ,man-,friday4 ,instead of being able to float only one or two passengers1 the ,crusoe1 if properly built1 ought to accommodate a considerable party of raftsmen4 ,of course the purpose for which the raft is to be used1 and the number of the crew that is expected to man it1 must be taken into consideration when deciding upon the dimensions of the proposed craft4 ,all the tools that are necessary for the construction of a good stout raft are an axe1 an auger1 and a hatchet1 with some strong arms to wield them4 ,the building material can be gathered from any driftwood heap on lake or stream4 ,for a moderate-sized raft collect six or seven logs1 the longest not being over sixteen feet in length nor more than a foot in diameter2 the logs must be tolerably straight4 ,pick out the longest and biggest for the centre1 sharpen one end1 roll the log into the water1 and there secure it4 ,select two logs as nearly alike as possible1 to lie one at each side of the centre log4 ,measure the centre log1 and make the point of each side log1 not at its own centre1 but at that side of it which will lie against the middle log1 so that this side point shall terminate where the pointing of the middle log begins 7see ,fig4 #i74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4--,plan of ,crusoe raft4 ,after all the logs needed have been trimmed and sharpened in the manner just described1 roll them into the water and arrange them in order 7,fig4 #i74 ,fasten them together with cross-strips1 boring holes through the strips to correspond with holes bored into the logs lying beneath1 and through these holes drive wooden pegs4 ,the pegs should be a trifle larger than the holes2 the water will cause the pegs to swell1 and they will hold much more firmly than iron nails4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4--,skeleton of ,crusoe raft4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4--;,crusoe with cabin covered4 ,the skeleton of the cabin can be made of saplings2 such as are used for hoop-poles are the best4 ,these are each bent into an arch1 and the ends are thrust into holes bored for that purpose4 ,over this hooping a piece of canvas is stretched1 after the manner of old-fashioned country wagons 7,figs4 #aj and #aa74 ,erect a jack-staff1 to be used as a flag-pole or a mast to rig a square sail on4 ,a stout stick should be erected at the stern1 and a similar one upon each side of the raft near the bow2 these sticks1 when their ends are made smaller1 as shown in the illustration 7,fig4 #aj71 serve as rowlocks4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4--,sweeps4 ,for oars use sweeps--long poles1 each with a piece of board for a blade fastened at one end 7,fig4 #ab74 ,holes must be bored through the poles of the sweeps about three feet from the handle1 to slip over the pegs used as rowlocks1 as described above4 ,these pegs should be high enough to allow the oarsman to stand while using the sweeps4 ,a flat stone or earth box placed at the bow will serve as a fireplace4 ,if the cracks between the logs under the cabin are filled up to prevent the water splashing through1 and the cabin is floored with cross-sticks1 a most comfortable bed at night can be made of hay1 by heaping it under the canvas cover in sufficient quantities4 ,the ,crusoe raft has this great advantage over all boats3 you may take a long trip down the river1 allowing the current to bear you along1 using the sweeps only to assist the man at the helm 7rear sweep72 then1 after your excursion is finished you may abandon your raft and return by steam-boat or train4 ,a very useful thing to the swimmers1 when they are skylarking in the water1 is ,the ,chump's ,raft ,its construction is simple4 ,four boards1 each about six feet long1 are nailed together in the form of a square1 with the ends of the boards protruding1 like the figure drawn upon a school-boy's slate for the game of ,tit1 tat1 toe 7,fig4 #ac74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4--,the chump's raft4 ,all nail-points must be knocked off and the heads hammered home1 to prevent serious scratches and wounds on the bather's body when he clambers over the raft or slips off in an attempt to do so 7,fig4 #ad74 ,beginners get in the middle hole1 and there1 with a support within reach all around them1 they can venture with comparative safety in deep water4 ,the raft1 which ,i built as a model fifteen years ago1 is still in use at my summer camp1 where scores of young people have used it with a success proved by their present skill as swimmers4 ,but many camps are located in a section of the country where boards are as scarce as boarding-houses1 but where timber1 in its rough state1 exists in abundance4 ,the campers in such locations can make ,a ,chump's ,raft of ,logs ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4--;,a beginner in a chump's raft4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae4--,looking down on a chump's raft in motion4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #af4--,side view of chump's log raft4 ,such a float consists of two dried logs fastened together at each end by cross-slabs1 so as to form a rude catamaran4 ,these rafts can be towed through deep water by a canoe or row-boat1 with the tenderfoot securely swung in a sling between the logs1 where he may practice the hand-and-foot movement with a sense of security which only the certainty that he is surrounded by a wooden life-preserver will give him4 ,fig4 #ae shows a top view of the new chump's raft4 ,in ,fig4 #af the two logs are connected fore and aft by cross-slabs2 two more upright slabs are nailed securely to the side of the logs2 notches having been cut in the top ends of these slabs1 a stout cross-piece is securely nailed to them and the towel or rope sling suspended from the middle of the cross-piece4 ,in regard to the dimensions of the raft it is only necessary to say that it should be wide and long enough to allow free movement of the arms and legs of the pupil who is suspended between the logs4 ,in almost every wilderness stream there can be found piles of driftwood on the shore where one may select good1 dried1 well-seasoned pine or spruce logs from which to make rafts4 ,if such heaps of driftwood are not within reach1 look for some standing dead timber and select that which is of sufficient dimensions to support a swimmer1 and be careful that it is not hollow or rotten in the core4 ,rotten wood will soon become water-logged and heavy4 ,fig4 #ag shows the position of the swimmer supported by the chump's sling4 ,if your raft has a tendency to work so that one log pulls ahead of the other1 it may be braced by cross-pieces1 such as are shown at ,j and ,k in ,fig4 #ah4 ,this figure also shows supports for a suspension pole made by nailing two sticks to each side and allowing the ends to cross so as to form a crotch in which the supporting rod rests and to which it is securely fastened by nails1 or by being bound there by a piece of rope1 as in ,a1 ,fig4 #ai4 ,b1 ,fig4 #ai1 shows the crotch made by resting ,l in a fork on the ,m stick and then nailing or binding it in place4 ,c1 ,fig4 #ai1 shows the two sticks1 ,l and ,m1 joined by notches cut log-cabin fashion before they are nailed in place4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ag4--,learning to swim by aid of a chump sling4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai4--;,details of saw-buck supports4 ,although many summers have rolled around since the author first made his advent on this beautiful earth1 he still feels the call of the bathing pool1 the charm of the spring-board1 almost as keenly as he did when he was wont to swim in ,blue ,hole at ,yellow ,springs1 ,ohio1 or dive from the log rafts into the ,ohio ,river1 or slide down the slippery made in the steep muddy banks of the ,licking ,river1 ,kentucky4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah4--;,another way to rig a chump4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,a ,,raft ,,that ,,will ,,sail ,the ,raft is ,just the ,thing for ,camp ,life--,pleasurable ,occupation for a ,camping ,party ,where ,wood is ,plentiful--,you ,will ,need ,axes and ,hatchets and a ,few ,other ,civilized ,implements ,,first we will select two pine logs of equal length1 and1 while the water is heating for our coffee1 we will sharpen the butt1 or larger end1 of the logs on one side with the axe1 making a chisel edge1 as shown in ,fig4 #bj4 ,this gives us an appetite for breakfast and makes the big fish in the lake1 as they jump above the water1 cast anxious looks toward our camp4 ,breakfast finished1 we will cut some cross-pieces to join our two logs together1 and at equal distances apart we will bore holes through the cross-pieces for peg-holes 7,figs4 #ba1 #bb1 and #bc74 ,while one of the party is fashioning a number of pegs1 each with a groove in one side1 like those shown in ,fig4 #bd1 the others will roll the logs into the water and secure them in a shallow spot4 ,shoes and stockings must be removed1 for most of the work is now to be done in the water4 ,of course1 it would be much easier done on land1 but the raft will be very heavy and could never be launched unless under the most favorable circumstances4 ,it is better to build the craft in the element which is to be its home4 ,cut two long saplings for braces1 and after separating the logs the proper distance for your cross-pieces to fit1 nail your braces in position1 as represented by ,fig4 #bj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bg4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4 ,illustration3 ,,parts ,,of ,,man-,,friday ,,sailing-,,raft4 #bj4--,logs in place with braces4 ,figs4 #ba1 #bb1 and #bc4--,struts4 ,fig4 #bd4--,pegs4 ,fig4 #be4--,raft with middle and stern strut in place4 ,fig4 #bf4--,springs for dry deck4 ,fig4 #bg4--;,dry deck4 ,fig4 #bh4--;,dry deck in place4 ,this holds the logs steady1 and we may now lay the two cross-pieces in position1 and mark the points on the logs carefully where the holes are to be bored to correspond with the ones in the cross-pieces4 ,bore the holes in one log first2 make the holes deep enough and then fill them with water1 after which drive the pegs through the ends of the cross-pieces and into the log4 ,the grooves in the pegs 7,fig4 #bd7 will allow the water to escape from the holes and the water will cause the peg to swell and tighten its hold on the log and cross-pieces4 ,now bore holes in the other log under those in the cross-pieces and fill them with water before driving the pegs home1 as you did in the first instance4 ,fig4 #be is a ,man-,friday raft4 ,the ,deck ,before placing the bow in position we must go ashore and make a dry deck4 ,selecting for the springs two long green ash or hickory poles1 trim the ends off flat on one side1 as shown by ,fig4 #bf4 ,this flat side is the bottom1 so roll them over1 with the flat side toward the ground1 and if you can find no planks or barrel staves for a deck1 split in half a number of small logs and peg or nail them on the top side of the springs1 as in ,fig4 #bg4 ,now all hands must turn out and carry the deck down to the raft and place it in position1 with the flattened sides of the springs resting on top of the logs at the bow4 ,prop it up in this position1 and then bore holes through the springs into the logs and peg the springs down4 ,over the flat ends place the heavy bow cross-piece1 bore the peg-holes1 and fasten it in position 7,fig4 #bh74 ,in the centre of the bow cross-piece bore several holes close together and chip out the wood between to make a hole1 as square a one as possible1 for the mast to fit or step in4 ,with the wood from a packing-box or a slab from a log make the bench for the mast4 ,bore a hole through the bench a trifle astern of the step1 or hole1 for the mast below4 ,it will cause the mast to rake a little aft4 ,you have done a big day's work1 but a couple of days ought to be sufficient time to finish the craft4 ,the ,sail ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bi4--,sail for ,man-,friday4 ,turn over the raw edges of the old sail-cloth and stitch them down1 as in ,fig4 #bi--that is1 if you have the needle and thread for the purpose2 if not1 trim the cloth to the proper form and two inches from the luff 7the side next to the mast74 ,cut a number of holes2 these should be stitched like button-holes1 if possible1 but if the sail-cloth is tough and we have no needle1 we shall have to let them go unstitched4 ,a small loop of rope must be sewed or fastened in some other manner very securely to each corner of the sail4 ,from spruce pine or an old fishing-pole make a sprit1 and of a good1 straight piece of pine manufacture your mast somewhat longer than the luff of the sail 7,fig4 #bi74 ,through the eyelets lace the luff of the sail to the mast1 so that its lower edge will clear the dry deck by about a foot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cj4--,scudding before the wind4 ,through the hole made for the purpose in the bench 7,fig4 #cj7 thrust the mast into the step1 or socket1 that we have cut in the bow cross-piece4 ,tie to the loop at the bottom corner of the sail a strong line about twelve feet long for a sheet with which to control the sail4 ,trim the upper end of the sprit to fit in the loop at the upper outer corner of the sail1 and make a notch in the lower end to fit in the loop of the line called the snotter4 ,now1 as you can readily see1 when the sprit is pushed diagonally upward the sail is spread2 to hold it in place make a loop of line for a snotter and attach the loop to the mast1 as in ,figs4 #bi and #cj4 ,fit the loop in the notch in the lower end of the sprit1 and the sail is set4 ,the ,keelig ,we need anchors1 one for the bow and one for the stern4 ,it takes little time to make them1 as you only need a forked stick1 a stone1 and a piece of plank1 or1 better still1 a barrel stave4 ,figs4 #ce to #ci show how this is made4 ,down ,east the fishermen use the keelig in preference to any other anchor4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ca4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cb4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ci4 ,make fast your lines to the keelig thus3 ,take the end of the rope in your right hand and the standing part 7which is the part leading from the boat7 in your left hand and form the loop 7,a1 ,fig4 #ca74 ,then with the left hand curve the cable from you1 bringing the end through the loop1 as in ,b1 ,fig4 #cb2 then lead it around and down1 as in ,c1 ,fig4 #cc4 ,draw it tight1 as in ,d1 ,fig4 #cd1 and you have the good1 old-fashioned knot1 called by sailors the bow-line4 ,to make it look neat and shipshape you may take a piece of string and bind the standing part to the shaft of your anchor or keelig--keelek--killick--killeck--kellec k--kellock--killock1 etc41 as you may choose to spell it4 ,a paddle to steer with and two pegs in the stern cross-piece to rest it in complete the craft2 and now the big bass had better use due caution1 because our lines will reach their haunts1 and we are after them6 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,canoes ,the ,advantages of a ,canoe--,how to ,make the ,slab ,canoe and the ,dugout--,how to ,make a ,siwash and a ,white ,man's ,dugout ,,there are many small freak crafts invented each year1 but none of them has any probabilities of being popularly used as substitutes for the old models4 ,folding canoes1 as a rule1 are cranky1 but the writer has found them most convenient when it was necessary to transport them long distances overland4 ,they are not1 however1 the safest of crafts2 necessarily they lack the buoyant wooden frame and lining of the ordinary canvas canoe1 which enables it to float even when filled with water4 ,the author owes his life to the floating properties of his canvas canoe4 ,on one occasion when it upset in a driving easterly storm the wind was off shore1 and any attempt upon the canoeist's part to swim toward shore would have caused him to have been suffocated by the tops of the waves which the wind cut off1 driving the water with stinging force into his face so constantly that1 in order to breathe at all1 he had to face the other way4 ,he was at length rescued by a steamer1 losing nothing but the sails and his shoes4 ,nevertheless1 the same storm which capsized his little craft upset several larger boats and tore the sails from others4 ,the advantages of a good canoe are many for the young navigators3 they can launch their own craft1 pick it up when occasion demands and carry it overland4 ,it is safe in experienced hands in any weather which is fit for out-door amusement4 ,when you are paddling your own canoe you are facing to the front and can see what is ahead of you1 which is much safer and more pleasant than travelling backward1 like a crawfish4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dj4 ,the advance-guard of modern civilization is the lumberman1 and following close on his heels comes the all-devouring saw-mill4 ,this fierce creature has an abnormal appetite for logs1 and it keeps an army of men1 boys1 and horses busy in supplying it with food4 ,while it supplies us with lumber for the carpenter1 builder1 and cabinet-maker1 it at the same time1 in the most shameful way1 fills the trout streams and rivers with great masses of sawdust1 which kills and drives away the fish4 ,but near the saw-mill there is always to be found material for a ,slab ,canoe which consists simply of one of those long slabs1 the first cut from some giant log 7,fig4 #dc74 ,these slabs are burned or thrown away by the mill-owners1 and hence cost nothing2 and as the saw-mill is in advance of population1 you are most likely to run across one on a hunting or fishing trip4 ,near one end1 and on the flat side of the slab 7,fig4 #dj71 bore four holes1 into which drive the four legs of a stool made of a section of a smaller slab 7,fig4 #da71 and your boat is ready to launch4 ,from a piece of board make a double or single paddle 7,fig4 #db71 and you are equipped for a voyage4 ,an old gentleman1 who in his boyhood days on the frontier frequently used this simple style of canoe1 says that the speed it makes will compare favorably with that of many a more pretentious vessel4 ,see ,fig4 #dc for furnished boat4 ,the ,dugout ,although not quite as delicate in model or construction as the graceful birch-bark canoe1 the dugout of the ,indians is a most wonderful piece of work1 when we consider that it is carved from the solid trunk of a giant tree with the crudest of tools1 and is the product of savage labor4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #da4 ,few people now living have enjoyed the opportunity of seeing one built by the ,indians1 and1 as the author is not numbered among that select few1 he considers it a privilege to be able to quote the following interesting account given by ,mr4 ,j4 ,h4 ,mallett1 of ,helena4 ,how to ,build a ,siwash ,canoe ,while visiting one of the small towns along ,puget ,sound1 ,i was greatly interested in the way the ,indians built their canoes4 ,it is really wonderful how these aborigines can1 with the crudest means and with a few days' work1 convert an unwieldy log into a trim and pretty canoe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #db4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dc4--,slab canoe4 ,one ,monday morning ,i saw a buck building a fire at the base of a large cedar-tree1 and he told me that this was the first step in the construction of a canoe that he intended to use upon the following ,saturday4 ,he kept the fire burning merrily all that day and far into the night1 when a wind came up and completed the downfall of the monarch of the forest4 ,the next day the man arose betimes1 and1 borrowing a cross-cut saw from a logger1 cut the trunk of the tree in twain at a point some fifteen feet from where it had broken off1 and then with a dull hatchet he hacked away until the log had assumed the shape of the desired canoe4 ,in this work he was helped by his squaw4 ,the old fellow then built a fire on the upper part of the log1 guiding the course of the fire with daubs of clay1 and in due course of time the interior of the canoe had been burned out4 ,half a day's work with the hatchet rendered the inside smooth and shapely4 ,the canoe was now1 ,i thought1 complete1 though it appeared to be dangerously narrow of beam4 ,this the ,indian soon remedied4 ,he filled the shell two-thirds full of water1 and into the fluid he dropped half a dozen stones that had been heating in the fire for nearly a day4 ,the water at once attained a boiling point1 and so softened the wood that the buck and squaw were enabled to draw out the sides and thus supply the necessary breadth of beam4 ,thwarts and slats were then placed in the canoe and the water and stones thrown out4 ,when the steamed wood began to cool and contract1 the thwarts held it back1 and the sides held the thwarts1 and there the canoe was complete1 without a nail1 joint1 or crevice1 for it was made of one piece of wood4 ,the ,siwash did not complete it as soon as he had promised1 but it only took him eight days4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dd4--,the dugout4 ,in the ,north-eastern part of our country1 before the advent of the canvas canoe1 beautiful and light birch-bark craft were used by the ,indians1 the voyagers1 trappers1 and white woodsmen4 ,but in the ,south and in the ,north-west1 the dugout takes the place of the birch-bark4 ,among the ,north-western ,indians the dugouts are made from the trunks of immense cedar-trees and built with high1 ornamental bows1 which are brilliantly decorated with paint4 ,on the eastern shore of ,maryland and ,virginia the dugout is made into a sail-boat called the buck-eye1 or bug-eye4 ,but all through the ,southern ,states1 from the ,ohio ,river to the ,gulf of ,mexico and in ,mexico1 the dugout is made of a hollowed log after the manner of an ordinary horse trough1 and often it is as crude as the latter1 but it can be made almost as beautiful and graceful as a birch-bark canoe4 ,how to ,make a ,white ,man's ,dugout ,canoe ,to make one of these dugout canoes one must be big and strong enough to wield an axe1 but if the readers are too young for this work1 they are none too young to know how to make one1 and their big brothers and father can do the work4 ,since the dugout occupies an important position in the history of our country1 every boy scout should know how it is made4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #de4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dh4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #di4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ej4 ,fig4 #dd shows one of these canoes afloat2 ,fig4 #de shows a tall1 straight tree suitable for our purpose1 and it also shows how the tree is cut and the arrangement of the kerfs1 or two notches1 so that it will fall in the direction of the arrow in the diagram4 ,you will notice along the ground are shown the ends of a number of small logs4 ,these are the skids1 or rollers1 upon which the log will rest when the tree is cut and felled4 ,the tree will fall in the direction in which the arrow is pointed if there is no wind4 ,if you have never cut down a tree1 be careful to take some lessons of a good woodsman before you attempt it4 ,when the log is trimmed off at both ends like ,fig4 #df1 flatten the upper side with the axe4 ,this is for the bottom of the canoe2 the flat part should be about a foot and a half wide to extend from end to end of the log4 ,now1 with some poles for pryers1 turn your log over so that it will rest with the flat bottom on the skids1 as in ,fig4 #df4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #df4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dg4 ,next take a chalk-line and fasten it at the two ends of the log1 as shown by the dotted line in ,figs4 #df1 #dg1 #dh1 #di4 ,snap the line so that it will make a straight mark as shown by the dotted line2 then trim off the two ends for the bow and stern1 as shown in ,fig4 #dg4 ,next cut notches down to the dotted line1 as illustrated in ,fig4 #dh2 then cut away from the bow down to the first notch1 making a curved line1 as shown in ,fig4 #di 7which is cut to second notch74 ,do the same with the stern1 making duplicates of the bow and stern4 ,the spaces between the notches amidships may now be split off by striking your axe along the chalk-line and then carefully driving in wooden wedges4 ,when this is all done you will have ,fig4 #ej4 ,you can now turn the log over and trim off the edges of the bow and stern so that they will slope1 as shown in ,fig4 #dd1 in a rounded curve2 after which roll the canoe back again upon its bottom and with an adze and axe hollow out the inside1 leaving some solid wood at both bow and stern--not that you need the wood for strength1 but to save labor4 ,when you have decided upon the thickness of the sides of your canoe1 take some small1 pointed instrument1 like an awl1 for instance1 and make holes with it to the required depth at intervals along the sides and bottom of the canoe4 ,then take some small sticks 7as long as the canoe sides are to be thick71 make them to fit the holes1 blacken their ends1 and drive them into the holes4 ,as soon as you see one from the inside1 you will know that you have made the shell thin enough4 ,use a jack-plane to smooth it off inside and out2 then build a big fire and heat some stones4 ,next fill the canoe with water and keep dumping the hot stones in the water until the latter is almost or quite to boiling point4 ,the hot water will soften the wood so that the sides will become flexible1 and you can then fit in some braces at the bow1 stern1 and centre of the canoe4 ,make the centre brace or seat some inches wider than the log1 so that when it is forced in place it will spread the canoe in the middle4 ,,chapter ,v ,,canoes ,,and ,,boating ,,stunts ,how to ,build a ,war ,canoe--,how to ,build a ,canvas ,canoe--,how to ,build an ,umbrella ,canoe--,how ,old ,shells ,can be ,turned into ,boys' ,boats--,cause of ,upsets--,landing from1 and ,embarking in1 a ,shell--,how to ,mend ,checks and ,cracks ,,in making canoes the ,indians used birch bark for the cover1 rock maple for the cross-bars1 and white cedar for the rest of the frame4 ,we will substitute canvas for the birch bark and any old wood that we can for the rock maple and the white cedar4 ,real woodcraft is best displayed in the ability to use the material at hand4 ,david ,abercrombie1 the outfitter1 some time ago presented ,andrew ,j4 ,stone1 the ,arctic explorer and mighty hunter1 with a small piece of light1 water-proof cloth to use as a shelter tent in bad weather4 ,but ,stone1 like the hunter that he was1 slept unprotected on the mountain side in the sleet and driving storms1 and used the water-proof cloth to protect the rare specimens he had shot4 ,one day a large1 rapid torrent lay in his path2 there was no lumber large enough with which to build a raft1 and the only wood for miles around was small willow bushes growing along the river bank4 ,at his command1 his three ,indians made a canoe frame of willow sticks1 tied together with bits of cloth and string4 ,stone set this frame in the middle of his water-proof cloth1 tied the cloth over the frame with other pieces of string1 and using only small clubs for paddles1 he and his men crossed the raging torrent in this makeshift1 which was loaded with their guns1 camera1 and specimens that he had shot on the trip4 ,after reading the above there is no doubt the reader will be able to build a war canoe with barrel-hoop ribs and lattice-work slats4 ,in the writer's studio is a long piece of maple1 one and one-half inches wide and one-quarter inch thick1 which was left by the workmen when they put down a hard-wood floor4 ,if you can get some similar strips1 either of oak1 maple1 or birch1 from the dealers in flooring material1 they will not be expensive and will make splendid gunwales for your proposed canoe4 ,there should be four such strips4 ,the hard-wood used for flooring splits easily1 and holes should be bored for the nails or screws to prevent cracking the wood when the nails or screws are driven home4 ,fig4 #ea shows the framework 7side view7 of the canoe2 ,fig4 #eb shows an end view of the same canoe2 ,fig4 #ec shows the middle section1 and ,fig4 #ed shows the form of the bow and stern sections4 ,this boat may be built any length you wish1 and so that you may get the proper proportions1 the diagrams from one to five are marked off in equal divisions4 ,to make patterns of the moulds1 ,figs4 #ec and #ed1 take a large piece of manila paper1 divide it up into the same number of squares as the diagram1 make the squares any size you may decide upon1 and then trace the line1 #a-;,h-#aj1 as it is in the diagrams4 ,this will give you the patterns of the two moulds 7,figs4 #ec and #ed74 ,while you are looking at these figures1 it may be well to call your attention to the way bow and stern pieces are made4 ,in ,fig4 #fc the pieces ,y and ,x are made from pieces of a packing-box1 notched and nailed together with a top piece1 ,u1 and a brace1 ,v4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ec4 ,fig4 #ed4 ,fig4 #ea4 ,fig4 #eb4 ,fig4 #eg4 ,fig4 #eh4 ,fig4 #ef4 ,fig4 #ei4 ,fig4 #ee4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fb4 ,fig4 #fj4 ,fig4 #fa4 ,conventional bow1 but made of barrel-heads4 ,the other end of the same canoe is1 as you may see1 strengthened and protected by having a barrel-hoop tacked over the stem-pieces1 ,y1 ,x1 ,u4 ,in ,fig4 #fd we use different material2 here the stem-piece is made of a broken bicycle rim1 ,u1 braced by the pieces of packing-box1 ,y1 ,v1 and ,w4 ,the left-hand end of ,fig4 #fd is made with pieces of head of a barrel1 ,x and ,u4 ,the bottom of the stem-piece ,y is made of the piece of a packing-box4 ,the two braces ,v are parts of the barrel-stave4 ,fig4 #fj shows the common form of the bow of a canoe4 ,the stem-pieces ,x1 ,y are made of the parts of the head of a barrel1 as shown in ,fig4 #fb4 ,to make a stem from a barrel-head1 nail the two pieces ,x and ,y1 ,fig4 #ef1 together as shown in this particular diagram4 ,now take another piece of barrel-head1 ,fig4 #eg1 and saw off a piece1 ,a1 ,d1 ,c1 so that it will fit neatly over ,a1 ,c1 ,d1 on ,fig4 #ef4 ,nail this securely in place1 and then in the same manner cut another piece to fit over the part ,e1 ,c1 ,b1 and nail that in place4 ,use small nails1 but let them be long enough so that you may clinch them by holding an axe or an iron against the head while you hammer the protruding points down1 or drive the nail a little on the bias and holding the axe or iron on the side it is to come through and let it strike the nail as it comes out and it will clinch itself4 ,to fasten the stem-piece to the keel use two pieces of packing-box or board1 cut in the form of ,fig4 #eh1 and nail these securely to the bow-piece as in ,z1 in ,fig4 #fj4 ,then from the bottom side of the keel ,h1 nail the keel-pieces firmly to the keel as in ,fig4 #fa4 ,also drive some nails from ,z to the top down to the keel1 as shown by the dotted lines in ,fig4 #fj4 ,the end view1 ,fig4 #ei1 shows how the two ,z pieces hug and support the stem-piece on the keel ,h4 ,fig4 #ee shows a half of the top view of the canoe gunwales2 the dimensions1 marked in feet and inches1 are taken from an ,indian birch-bark canoe4 ,you see by the diagram that it is eight feet from the centre of the middle cross-piece to the end of the big opening at the bow4 ,it is also three feet from the centre of the middle cross-piece to the next cross-piece1 and thirty inches from the centre of that cross-piece to the bow cross-piece1 which is just thirty inches from the eight-foot mark4 ,the middle cross-piece in a canoe of these dimensions is seven-eighths of an inch thick1 and thirty inches long between the gunwales2 the next cross-piece is three-quarters of an inch thick and twenty-two and one-half inches long4 ,the next one is half an inch wide1 two inches thick and twelve inches between the gunwales4 ,these cross-pieces can be made of the staves of a barrel4 ,of course1 this would be a canoe of sixteen feet inside measurement1 not counting the flattened part of the bow and stern4 ,now1 then1 to build the canoe4 ,first take the keel-piece1 ,h1 which is in this case a piece of board about six inches wide and only thick enough to be moderately stiff4 ,lay the keel on any level surface and put the stem-pieces on as already described1 using packing-box for ,x1 ,u1 ,v1 ,y1 and ,z1 and bracing them with a piece of packing-box on each side1 marked ,w in diagram 7,fig4 #ea74 ,then make three moulds1 one for the centre 7,fig4 #ec71 and two more for the bow and stern 7,fig4 #ed74 ,notch the bottom of these moulds to fit the keel and with wire nails make them fast to the keel1 leaving the ends of the nails protruding far enough to be easily withdrawn when you wish to remove the moulds4 ,in nailing the laths to the moulds 7,fig4 #ea7 leave the heads of the nails also protruding so that they may be removed4 ,place the moulds in position1 with the middle one in the exact centre1 and the two ends located like those in ,figs4 #fc and #fd4 ,place and nail gunwale1 ,l1 on as in ,fig4 #ea1 tacking it to the bow and stern and bending it around to fit the moulds2 tack the lattice slats ,m1 ,n1 ,o1 ,p on to the bow1 stern1 and moulds1 as shown in ,fig4 #ea4 ,if your barrel-hoops are stiff and liable to break while bending and unbending1 let them soak a couple of days in a tub of water1 then before fitting them to the form of the canoe make them more pliable by pouring hot water on them4 ,the barrel-hoop ,s1 ,r1 at the bow of the canoe1 is nailed to the top-piece ,u1 to the inside of the slats ,l1 ,m1 ,n1 ,o1 ,p1 and to the outside of ,h4 ,the next three ribs on each side are treated in the same manner2 repeat this at the other end of the canoe and nail the intervening ribs to the top of ,h and to the inside of the slats1 following the model of the boat4 ,put the ribs about four inches apart and clinch the nails as already described4 ,in the diagrams there is no temporary support for the canoe frame except the wooden horses1 as in ,fig4 #ea4 ,these supports have been purposely omitted in the drawing1 as it is desirable to keep it as simple as possible4 ,some temporary support will be necessary to hold the bow and stern-piece in ,fig4 #ea4 ,these supports can be nailed or screwed temporarily to the canoe frame so as to hold it rigid while you are at work on it4 ,after the ribs are all in place and the framework completed1 turn the canoe upside down upon the wooden horses--for a canoe as large as the one in the first diagram you will need three horses1 one at each end and one in the middle4 ,for a canoe of the dimensions marked in ,fig4 #ee1 that is1 sixteen feet inside measurement1 you would need about seven yards of ten-ounce cotton canvas1 of sufficient width to reach up over the sides of your canoe4 ,take a tape-measure or a piece of ordinary tape or a long strip of manila paper and measure around the bottom of the boat at its widest part in the middle from one gunwale 7top of side7 to the other1 and see that your cloth is fully as wide as your measurement4 ,fold the canvas lengthwise so as to find its exact centre and crease it4 ,with two or three tacks fasten the cloth at its centre line 7the crease7 to the stem-piece of the canoe4 ,stretch the canvas the length of the boat with the crease of centre-line along the centre of the keel2 pull it as taut as may be and again tack the centre line to the stem at this end of the craft4 ,if this has been done carefully the cloth will hang an equal length over each side of the canoe4 ,now begin amidships and drive tacks about two inches apart along the gunwale1 say an inch below the top surface4 ,after having tacked it for about two feet1 go to the other side of the boat1 pull the cloth taut and in the same manner tack about three feet4 ,continue this process first one side and then the other until finished4 ,while stretching the cloth knead it with the hand and fingers so as to thicken or full it where it would otherwise wrinkle2 by doing this carefully it is possible to stretch the canvas over the frame without the necessity of cutting it4 ,the cloth that extends beyond the frame may be brought over the gunwale and tacked along the inside4 ,use four-ounce tinned or copper tacks4 ,the canvas is now stretched on every part except on the high1 rolling bow and stern4 ,with a pair of shears slit the canvas from the outer edge of the bow and stern within a half inch of the ends of the keel4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fd4 ,high bows framework made of packing-box and barrel-heads4 ,fold the right-hand flap thus made at the left-hand end around the bow and stern and1 drawing tight1 tack it down1 then fold the left-hand flap over the right-hand side and tack it in a similar manner1 trimming off the remaining cloth neatly4 ,the five braces1 three of which are shown in ,fig4 #ee1 may be nailed to the gunwales of the canoe1 as the temporary moulds are removed4 ,the braces should be so notched that the top ends of the braces will fit over the top edge of the gunwale and their lower edges will fit against the sides4 ,give the boat at least three good coats of paint and nail the two extra gunwale strips on the outside of the canvas for guards4 ,when it is dry and the boat is launched you may startle the onlookers and make the echoes ring with3 ,wo-ach6 wo-ach6 ,ha-ha-ha-hack--wo-ach6 which is said to be the identical war cry with which the ,indians greeted the landing of our ,pilgrim ,fathers4 ,the reader must not suppose that barrel-hoops are the best material for ribs2 they are but a makeshift1 and although good-looking1 servicable canoes have been built of this material from the foregoing descriptions1 better ones may be made by using better material1 such1 for instance1 as is described in the making of the birch-bark canoe4 ,old ,shells ,where there are oarsmen and boat-clubs1 there you will find beautiful shell boats of paper or cedar1 shaped like darning-needles1 so slight in structure that a child can knock a hole in them1 and yet very seaworthy boats for those who understand how to handle them4 ,the expensive material and skilled labor necessary to build a racing shell puts the price of one so high that few boys can afford to buy one2 but where new shells are to be found there are also old ones1 and when they are too old to sell they are thrown away4 ,many an old shell rots on the meadows near the boat-houses or rests among the rafters forgotten and unused1 which with a little work would make a boat capable of furnishing no end of fun to a boy4 ,checks or ,cracks can be pasted over with common manila wrapping-paper by first covering the crack with a coat of paint1 or1 better still1 of varnish1 then fitting the paper smoothly over the spot and varnishing the paper4 ,give the paper several coats of varnish1 allowing it to dry after each application1 and the paper will become impervious to water4 ,the deck of a shell is made of thin muslin or paper1 treated with a liberal coat of varnish1 and can be patched with similar material4 ,there are always plenty of slightly damaged oars which have been discarded by the oarsmen4 ,the use of a saw and jack-knife in the hands of a smart boy can transform these wrecks into serviceable oars for his patched-up old shell1 and if the work is neatly done1 the boy will be the proud owner of a real shell boat1 and the envy of his comrades4 ,the ,cause of ,upsets ,a single shell that is very cranky with a man in it is comparatively steady when a small boy occupies the seat4 ,put on your bathing clothes when you wish to try a shell1 so that you may be ready for the inevitable upset4 ,every one knows1 when he looks at one of these long1 narrow boats1 that as long as the oars are held extended on the water it cannot upset4 ,but1 in spite of that knowledge1 every one1 when he first gets into a shell1 endeavors to balance himself by lifting the oars1 and1 of course1 goes over in a jiffy4 ,the ,delights of a ,shell ,it is an error to suppose that the frail-looking1 needle-like boat is only fit for racing purposes4 ,for a day on the water1 in calm weather1 there is1 perhaps1 nothing more enjoyable than a single shell4 ,the exertion required to send it on its way is so slight1 and the speed so great1 that many miles can be covered with small fatigue4 ,upon referring to the log-book of the ,nereus ,club1 where the distances are all taken from the ,united ,states chart1 the author finds that twenty and thirty miles are not uncommon records for single-shell rows4 ,during the fifteen or sixteen seasons that the author has devoted his spare time to the sport he has often planned a heavy cruising shell1 but owing to the expense of having such a boat built he has used the ordinary racing boat1 and found it remarkably well adapted for such purposes4 ,often he has been caught miles away from home in a blow1 and only once does he remember of being compelled to seek assistance4 ,he was on a lee shore and the waves were so high that after once being swamped he was unable to launch his boat again1 for it would fill before he could embark4 ,so a heavy rowboat and a coachman were borrowed from a gentleman living on the bay1 and while the author rowed1 the coachman towed the little craft back to the creek where the ,nereus club-house is situated4 ,in the creek1 however1 the water was calmer1 and rather than stand the jeers of his comrades1 the writer embarked in his shell and rowed up to the boat-house float4 ,he was very wet and his boat was full of water1 but to the inquiry of ,rough out in the bay8 he confined himself to the simple answer--,yes4 ,then dumping the water from his shell and placing it upon the rack he put on his dry clothes and walked home1 none the worse for the accident4 ,after ordinary skill and confidence are acquired it is really astonishing what feats can be accomplished in a frail racing boat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fe4 ,a ,fig4 #ff4 ,b ,fig4 #fg4 ,c ,fig4 #fh4 ,d ,fig4 #fi4 ,e ,fig4 #gj4 ,f ,fig4 #ga4 ,fig4 #gb4 ,fig4 #gc4 ,fig4 #gd4 ,fig4 #ge4 ,,parts ,,of ,,the ,,umbrella ,,canoe4 ,a ,plank4 ,b ,rib ,c ,rib ,d ,rib in process of construction4 ,e ,rib ,f ,rib ,g1 ,g ,thimbles4 ,h ,plank4 ,j and ,k ,stretcher unfinished and finished4 ,it is not difficult to ,stand ,upright ,in a ,shell if you first take one of your long stockings and tie the handles of your oars together where they cross each other in front of you4 ,the ends will work slightly and the blades will keep their positions on the water1 acting as two long balances4 ,now slide your seat as far forward as it will go1 slip your feet from the straps and grasp the straps with your hand1 moving the feet back to a comfortable position4 ,when all ready raise yourself by pulling on the foot strap1 and with ordinary care you can stand upright in the needle-shaped boat1 an apparently impossible thing to do when you look at the narrow craft4 ,how to ,land ,where ,there ,is ,no ,float ,when for any reason you wish to land where there is no float1 row into shallow water and put one foot overboard until it touches bottom4 ,then follow with the other foot1 rise1 and you are standing astride of your boat4 ,how to ,embark ,where ,there ,is ,no ,float ,wade out and slide the shell between your extended legs until the seat is underneath you4 ,sit down1 and1 with the feet still in the water1 grasp your oars4 ,with these in your hands it is an easy task to balance the boat until you can lift your feet into it4 ,ozias ,dodge's ,umbrella ,canoe ,mr4 ,dodge is a ,yale man1 an artist1 and an enthusiastic canoeist4 ,the prow of his little craft has ploughed its way through the waters of many picturesque streams in this country and ,europe1 by the river-side1 under the walls of ruined castles1 where the iron-clad warriors once built their camp-fires1 and near pretty villages1 where people dress as if they were at a fancy-dress ball4 ,when a young man like ,mr4 ,dodge says that he has built a folding canoe that is not hard to construct1 is inexpensive and practical1 there can be little doubt that such a boat is not only what is claimed for it by its inventor1 but that it is a novelty in its line1 and such is undoubtedly the case with the umbrella canoe4 ,how the ,canoe ,was ,built ,the artist first secured a white-ash plank 7,a1 ,fig4 #fe71 free from knots and blemishes of all kinds4 ,the plank was one inch thick and about twelve feet long4 ,at the mill he had this sawed into eight strips one inch wide1 one inch thick1 and twelve feet long 7,b and ,c1 ,figs4 #ff and #fg74 ,then he planed off the square edges of each stick until they were all octagonal in form1 and looked like so many great lead-pencils 7,d1 ,fig4 #fh74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gf4--;,frame of umbrella canoe4 ,mr4 ,dodge claims that1 after you have reduced the ash poles to this octagonal form1 it is an easy matter to whittle them with your pocket-knife or a draw-knife1 and by taking off all the angles of the sticks make them cylindrical in form 7,e1 ,fig4 #fi72 then smooth them off nicely with sand-paper1 so that each pole has a smooth surface and is three-quarters of an inch in diameter4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gg4--,umbrella canoe4 ,after the poles were reduced to this state he whittled all the ends to the form of a truncated cone--that is1 like a sharpened lead-pencil with the lead broken off 7,f1 ,fig4 #gj7--;a blunt point4 ,he next went to a tinsmith and had two sheet-iron cups made large enough to cover the eight pole-ends 7,g and ,g1 ,figs4 #ga and #gb74 ,each cup was six inches deep4 ,after trying the cups1 or thimbles1 on the poles to see that they would fit1 he made two moulds of oak4 ,first he cut two pieces of oak plank two feet six inches long by one foot six inches 7,h1 ,fig4 #gd71 which he trimmed into the form shown by ,j1 ,fig4 #ge1 making a notch to fit each of the round ribs1 and to spread them as the ribs of an umbrella are spread4 ,he made two other similar moulds for the bow and stern1 each of which1 of course1 is smaller than the middle one4 ,after spreading the ribs with the moulds1 and bringing the ends together in the tin cups1 he made holes in the bottom of the cups where the ends of the ribs came1 and fastened the ribs to the cups with brass screws1 fitted with leather washers1 and run through the holes in the tin and screwed into the ends of the poles or ribs4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gh4--;,canoe folded for transportation4 ,canoe in water in distance4 ,a square hole was then cut through each mould 7,k1 ,fig4 #ge71 and the poles put in place1 gathered together at the ends1 and held in place by the tin thimbles4 ,the square holes in the moulds allow several small1 light floor planks to form a dry floor to the canoe4 ,the canvas costs about forty-five cents a yard1 and five yards are all you need4 ,the deck can be made of drilling1 which comes about twenty-eight inches wide and costs about twenty cents a yard4 ,five yards of this will be plenty4 ,fit your canvas over the frame1 stretch it tightly1 and tack it securely to the two top ribs only4 ,fasten the deck on in the same manner4 ,when ,mr4 ,dodge had the canoe covered and decked1 with a square hole amidship to sit in1 he put two good coats of paint on the canvas1 allowed it to dry1 and his boat was ready for use 7,fig4 #gg74 ,he quaintly says that it looked like a starved dog1 with all its ribs showing through the skin1 just as the ribs of an umbrella show on top through the silk covering4 ,but this does not in any way impede the progress of the boat through the water4 ,where the moulds are the case is different1 for the lines of the moulds cross the line of progress at right angles and must necessarily somewhat retard the boat4 ,but even this is not perceptible4 ,the worst feature about the moulds is that the canvas is very apt to be damaged there by contact with the shore1 float1 or whatever object it rubs against4 ,with ordinary care the umbrella canoe ,will ,last for ,years and is a good boat for paddling on inland streams and small bodies of water2 and when you are through with it for the night1 all that is necessary is to remove the stretchers by springing the poles from the notches in the spreaders1 roll up the canvas around the poles1 put it on your shoulder1 and carry it home or to camp1 as shown in ,fig4 #gh4 ,to put your canoe together again put in the moulds1 fit the poles in their places1 and the umbrella is raised1 or1 rather1 the canoe is1 if we can use such an expression in regard to a boat4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,the ,,birch-,,bark ,how to ,build a ,real ,birch-,bark ,canoe or a ,canvas ,canoe on a ,birch-,bark ,frame--,how to ,mend a ,birch-,bark ,,although the ,indian was the first to build these simple little boats1 some of his white brothers are quite as expert in the work4 ,but the red man can outdo his white brother in navigating the craft4 ,the only tools required in building a canoe are a knife and awl1 a draw-shave and a hammer4 ,an ,indian can do all of his work with a knife4 ,several years ago canvas began to be used extensively in canoe-building1 instead of birch bark1 and it will eventually entirely supersede birch1 although nothing can be found that bends so gracefully4 ,there are several canvas-canoe factories in ,maine1 and the canoes made of canvas have both the symmetry and the durability of the birches4 ,they are also a trifle cheaper1 but if the real thing and sentiment are wanted1 one should never have anything but a bark craft4 ,if properly handled1 a good canoe will safely hold four men4 ,canoes intended for deep water should have considerable depth4 ,those intended for shoal water1 such as trout-fishers use1 are made as flat as possible4 ,up to the time when canoeing was introduced the materials for building craft of this kind could be found all along the rivers4 ,big birch-trees grew in countless numbers1 and clear1 straight cedar was quite as plentiful within a few feet of the water's edge4 ,now one must go miles back into the dense forests for such materials1 and even then seldom does it happen that two suitable trees are found within sight of one or the other4 ,cedar is more difficult of the two to find4 ,the ,tree ,the tree is selected1 first1 for straightness2 second1 smoothness2 third1 freedom from knots or limbs2 fourth1 toughness of bark2 fifth1 small size of eyes2 sixth1 length 7the last is not so important1 as two trees can be put together71 and1 seventh1 size 7which is also not so important1 as the sides can be pieced out74 ,dimensions ,the average length of canoe is about #ai feet over all1 running1 generally1 from #ah to #bb feet for a boat to be used on inland waters1 the sea-going canoes being larger1 with relatively higher bows4 ,the average width is about #cj inches inside1 measured along the middle cross-bar2 the greatest width inside is several inches below the middle cross-bar1 and is several inches greater than the width measured along said cross-bar4 ,the measurements given below are those of a canoe #ai feet over all3 #af feet long inside1 measured along the curve of the gunwale2 #cj inches wide inside4 ,the actual length inside is less than #af feet1 but the measurement along the gunwales is the most important4 ,bark ,bark can be peeled when the sap is flowing or when the tree is not frozen--at any time in late spring1 summer1 and early fall 7called summer bark72 in winter during a thaw1 when the tree is not frozen1 and when the sap may have begun to flow4 ,difference in the ,bark ,summer bark peels readily1 is smooth inside1 of a yellow color1 which turns reddish upon exposure to the sun1 and is chalky-gray in very old canoes4 ,winter bark adheres closely1 and forcibly brings up part of the inner bark1 which on exposure turns dark red4 ,this rough surface may be moistened and scraped away4 ,all winter-bark canoes must be thus scraped and made smooth4 ,sometimes the dark red is left in the form of a decorative pattern extending around the upper edge of the canoe1 the rest of the surface being scraped smooth4 ,process of ,peeling ,the tree should be cut down so that the bark can be removed more easily4 ,a log called a skid 7,fig4 #gi7 is laid on the ground a few feet from the base of the tree1 which will keep the butt of the tree off the ground when the tree is felled4 ,the limbs at the top will keep the other end off the ground4 ,a space is cleared of bushes and obstructions where the tree is to fall4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gi4--,showing how the butt is kept off the ground4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ha4 ,after the tree has been cut down1 a cut is made in a straight line 7,a1 ,b1 ,fig4 #gi71 splitting the bark from top to bottom1 and a ring cut at ,a and ,b 7,fig4 #gi74 ,when sap is flowing1 the bark is readily removed2 but in winter the edges of the cut are raised with a knife1 and a thin1 pliant hard-wood knife or spud is pushed around under the bark4 ,toasting ,after the bark has dropped upon the ground the inside surface is warmed with a torch1 which softens and straightens it out flat4 ,the torch is made of a bundle of birch bark held in a split stick 7,fig4 #ha74 ,it is then rolled up like a carpet1 with inside surface out1 and tightly bound1 generally with cedar bark when the latter can be procured 7,fig4 #hj74 ,if the tree is long enough1 a piece is taken off at least nineteen feet in length1 so that the ends of the canoe may not be pieced out4 ,a few shorter pieces are wrapped up with the bundle for piecing out the sides4 ,the ,roll is taken on the back in an upright position1 and is carried by a broad band of cedar bark1 passing under the lower end of the roll and around in front of the breast and shoulders 7,fig4 #hb74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hb4--,mode of carrying roll4 ,effects of ,heat ,it is laid where the sun will not shine on it and harden it4 ,the first effect of heat is to make it pliant4 ,long exposure to heat or to dry atmosphere makes it hard and brittle4 ,the ,woodwork is as follows3 ,five cross-bars of rock-maple 7,figs4 #hc1 #he1 and #ia74 ,all the rest is of white cedar1 taken from the heart4 ,the sap-wood absorbs water1 and would make the canoe too heavy1 so it is rejected4 ,the wood requires to be straight and clear1 and it is best to use perfectly green wood for the ribs4 ,two strips #af feet long1 #a inch square1 tapering toward either end1 the ends being notched 7,fig4 #hc ,a7 is a section of the #af foot strip4 ,each strip is mortised for the cross-bars 7see ,fig4 #he74 ,the lower outside edge is bevelled off to receive the ends of the ribs4 ,the dimensions of the cross-bars 7,fig4 #he7 are #ab x #b x inch1 #bb x #b x inch1 and #cj x #b x #g_/h inch4 ,the cross-bars are placed in position1 and the ends of the gunwales are tied with spruce roots after being nailed together to prevent splitting4 ,each bar is held in place by a peg of hard wood4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #hc and #hc4--,showing section of canoe amidship and section and shape of gunwale and top view4 ,for stitching and wrapping1 long1 slender roots of spruce1 or sometimes of elm1 are peeled and split in two4 ,black ash splits are rarely used except for repairing 7,figs4 #hf1 #hg1 #hh74 ,next we need 7,b1 ,fig4 #hc7 two strips #a or #a inch by inch1 a little over #ai feet long1 to go outside of gunwales1 and 7,c1 ,fig4 #hc7 two top strips1 same length1 #b inches wide in middle1 tapering to #a inch at either end1 #a inch thick4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hf4 ,fig4 #hg4 ,fig4 #hh4 ,fig4 #hi4 ,fig4 #ij4 ,fig4 #ia4 ,fig4 #hd4 ,fig4 #he4 ,details of sticking and framework of canoe4 ,ribs ,about fifty in number 7,figs4 #ia1 #ib7 are split with the grain 7,f1 ,fig4 #ib71 so that the heart side of the wood will be on the inner side when the rib is bent4 ,the wood bends better this way4 ,they must be perfectly straight-grained and free from knots4 ,ribs for the middle are four inches wide1 ribs for the ends about three inches wide 7,fig4 #ia and ,g1 ,fig4 #ib71 and are whittled down to a scant half an inch 7,fig4 #ic74 ,green wood is generally used1 and before it has had any time to season4 ,the ribs may be softened by pouring hot water on them1 and should be bent in pairs to prevent breaking 7,fig4 #ij74 ,they are held in shape by a band of cedar bark passed around outside4 ,the ribs are of importance in the shaping of the canoe4 ,the sides bulge out 7,figs4 #ia1 #ib74 ,the shape of the ribs determines the depth and stability of the canoe4 ,lining ,strips ,other strips1 an eighth of an inch thick1 are carefully whittled out1 with straight edges4 ,they are a little over eight feet long1 and are designed to be laid inside on the bark1 edge to edge1 between the bark and the ribs4 ,these strips lap an inch or two where they meet1 in the middle of the canoe1 and are wider here than at the ends1 owing to the greater circumference of the canoe in the middle4 ,seasoning ,all the timber is carefully tied up before building and laid away4 ,the ribs are allowed to season perfectly1 so that they will keep their shape and not spring back4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ib4 ,fig4 #ic4 ,details of ribs1 ,indian knives and method of using them4 ,the ,bed ,next the bed is prepared on a level spot1 if possible shaded from the sun4 ,a space is levelled about three and a half feet wide and a little longer than the canoe4 ,the surface is made perfectly smooth4 ,the middle is one or two inches higher than either end4 ,building ,the frame is laid exactly in the middle of the bed4 ,a small post is driven in the ground 7,fig4 #id71 on which each end of the frame will rest4 ,stakes1 two or three feet long and about two inches in diameter1 are whittled flat on one side1 and are driven with the flat side toward the frame at the following points1 leaving a space of about a quarter of an inch between the stake and the frame 7,fig4 #id73 ,one stake an inch or two on either side of each cross-bar1 and another stake half way between each cross-bar4 ,this makes eleven stakes on each side of the frame4 ,twelve additional stakes are driven as follows3 ,one pair facing each other1 at the end of the frame2 another pair1 an inch apart1 about six inches from the last pair1 measuring toward the ends of the canoe2 and another pair1 an inch apart1 a foot from these4 ,these last stakes will be nine and a half feet from the middle of the frame1 and nineteen feet from the corresponding stakes at the other end4 ,next1 these stakes are all taken up1 and the frame laid aside4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #id4--,showing stakes supporting bark sides2 note stones on the bottom4 ,to ,soften the ,bark ,next the bark is unrolled4 ,if it has laid until it has become a little hardened1 it is placed in the river or stream for a day or two4 ,it is spread out flat1 and laid upon the bed with the gray or outside surface up4 ,the inside surface is placed downward1 and becomes the outside of the canoe4 ,the frame is replaced upon the bark1 so that it will be at the same distance from each side and end of the bed that it was before4 ,at each cross-bar boards are laid across the frame1 and heavy stones are laid upon them to keep the frame solid and immovable upon the bark 7,fig4 #he1 ,c74 ,the edges of the bark are next bent up in a perpendicular position1 and in order that it may bend smoothly slits are made in the bark in an outward direction1 at right angles to the frame4 ,a cut is made close to the end of each cross-bar1 and one half way between each bar1 which is generally sufficient to allow the bark to be bent up smoothly4 ,as the bark is bent up1 the large stakes are slipped back in the holes which they occupied before1 and the tops of each opposite pair are connected with a strip of cedar bark which keeps the stakes perfectly perpendicular4 ,at each end it is necessary to take out a small triangular piece or gore1 so that the edges may come together without overlapping4 ,next twenty-two pieces of cedar1 one to two feet long1 and about or inch thick1 are split out1 and whittled thin and flat at one end4 ,this sharpened edge is inserted between the outside edge of the frame and the bent-up bark1 opposite each large stake4 ,the other end of the chisel-shaped piece is tightly tied to the large stake outside4 ,by means of the large outside stake and the inside stake1 so-called1 the bark is held in a perfectly upright position2 and in order to keep the bent-up part more perfectly flat and smooth1 the strips of cedar are pushed in lengthwise between the stakes and the bark1 on each side of the bark1 as shown in sectional views 7,fig4 #he1 ,c1 ,d74 ,sometimes1 in place of having temporary strips to go on outside of the bark1 the long outside strip 7,b1 ,fig4 #hc71 is slipped in place instead4 ,it may now be seen if the bark is not wide enough4 ,if it is not1 the sides must be pieced out with a narrow piece1 cut in such a way that the eyes in the bark will run in the same direction as those of the large piece4 ,as a general rule1 from the middle to the next bar the strip for piecing is placed on the inside of the large piece1 whose upper edge has previously been trimmed straight1 and the two are sewed together by the stitch shown in ,fig4 #hf1 the spruce root being passed over another root laid along the trimmed-off edge of the large piece of bark to prevent the stitches from tearing out4 ,from the second bar to the end of the canoe1 or as far as may be necessary1 the strip is placed outside the large piece1 and from the second to the end bar is sewed as in ,fig4 #hg1 and from the end bar to the end of the canoe is stitched as in ,fig4 #hh4 ,next1 the weights are taken off the frame1 which is raised up as follows1 the bark remaining flat on the bed as before3 ,a post eight inches long is set up under each end of middle cross-bar 7,fig4 #he1 ,d71 one end resting on the bark and the other end supporting either end of the middle cross-bar4 ,another post1 nine inches long1 is similarly placed under each end of the next cross-bar4 ,another1 twelve inches long1 is placed under each end of the end cross-bar2 and another1 sixteen and a half or seventeen inches1 supports each end of the frame4 ,as the posts are placed under each cross-bar1 the weights are replaced2 and as these posts are higher at the ends than in the middle1 the proper curve is obtained for the gunwales4 ,the temporary strips1 that have been placed outside the bent-up portion of the bark1 are removed1 and the long outside strip before mentioned 7,b1 ,fig4 #hc7 is slipped in place between the outside stakes and the bark4 ,this strip is next nailed to the frame with wrought-iron nails that pass through the bark and are clinched on the inside4 ,this outside strip has taken exactly the curve of the frame1 but its upper edge1 before nailing1 was raised so as to be out an eighth of an inch 7or the thickness of the bark7 higher than the top surface of the frame1 so that when the edges of the bark have been bent down1 and tacked flat to the frame1 a level surface will be presented1 upon which the wide top strip will eventually be nailed4 ,formerly the outer strip was bound to the frame with roots every few inches1 but now it is nailed4 ,the cross-bars are now lashed to the frame1 having previously been held only by a peg4 ,the roots are passed through holes in the end of the bars1 around the outside strip 7see right-hand side of ,fig4 #he74 ,a two-inch piece of the bark1 which has been tacked down upon the frame1 is removed at the ends by the cross-bars1 where the spruce roots are to pass around1 and the outside strip is cut away to a corresponding extent1 so that the roots1 when wrapped around1 will be flush with the surface above4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ie4--,shows how to describe arc of circle for bow1 also ornamentation of winter bark4 ,all the stakes are now removed1 and laid away to be ready for the next canoe that may be built1 and the canoe taken upside down upon two horses or benches1 that will keep the craft clear of the ground4 ,the shape of the bow is now marked out1 either by the eye or with mechanical aid1 according to the following rule3 ,an arc of a circle1 with a radius of seventeen inches1 is described 7,fig4 #ie7 having as a centre a point shown in diagram4 ,the bark is then cut away to this line4 ,bow-piece ,to stiffen the bow1 a bow-piece of cedar1 nearly three feet long 7,fig4 #if71 an inch and a half wide1 and half an inch thick on one edge1 bevelled and rounded off toward the other edge1 is needed4 ,to facilitate bending edgeways it is split into four or five sections 7as in ,fig4 #ih7 for about thirty inches4 ,the end that remains unsplit is notched on its thicker edge 7,fig4 #if7 to receive the lower end of an oval cedar board 7,fig4 #ig7 that is placed upright in the bow underneath the tip of the frame4 ,it is bent to correspond with the curve of the boat1 with the thin edge toward the outside of the circle1 and wrapped with twine1 so that it will keep its shape4 ,the bow-piece is placed between the edges of the bark1 which are then sewed together by an over-and-over stitch1 which passes through the bow-piece4 ,a pitch is prepared of rosin and grease1 in such proportions that it will neither readily crack in cold water nor melt in the sun4 ,one or the other ingredient is added until by test it is found just right4 ,patching and ,pitching ,the canoe is now placed on the ground1 right side up1 and all holes are covered on the inside with thin birch bark that is pasted down with hot pitch4 ,a strip of cloth is saturated with hot pitch1 and pressed into the cracks on either side of the bow-piece inside1 between the bark and the bow-piece 7,fig4 #ii74 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #ig-ajj4--,show details of canoe bow4 ,the thin longitudinal strips are next laid in position1 edge to edge1 lapping several inches by the middle2 they are whittled thin here so as to lap evenly4 ,the ribs are next tightly driven in place1 commencing at the small end ones and working toward the middle4 ,the end ribs may be two or three inches apart1 being closer toward the middle1 where1 in many cases1 they touch4 ,usually1 they are about half an inch apart in the middle4 ,each rib is driven into place with a square-ended stick and a mallet4 ,the ends are stuffed with shavings 7,fig4 #ajj and ,section ,fig4 #ajj71 and an oval cedar board is put in the place formerly occupied by the post that supported the end of the frame4 ,the lower end rests in the notch of the bow-piece1 while the upper is cut with two shoulders that fit underneath each side of the frame2 ,fig4 #ig shows the cedar board4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajj4 ,fig4 #aja4 ,canoe paddles4 ,the top strip is next nailed on to the frame4 ,almost always a piece of bark1 a foot or more long1 and nine or ten inches wide1 is bent and slipped under1 between both top and side strips and the bark4 ,the ends of this piece hang down about three inches below the side strips4 ,the loose ends of the strips are bound together1 as in diagram1 and the projecting tips of both strips and bow-piece are trimmed off close4 ,next the canoe is turned upside down4 ,if winter bark has been used1 the surface is moistened and the roughness scraped off with a knife4 ,generally the red rough surface is left in the form of a decorative pattern several inches wide around the upper edge 7,fig4 #ie74 ,sometimes the maker's name and date are left in this way4 ,finally1 a strip of stout canvas1 three or four inches wide1 is dipped in the melted pitch and laid on the stitching at the ends1 extending up sufficiently far above the water-line4 ,all cracks and seams are covered with pitch1 laid on with a small wooden paddle4 ,while still soft1 a wet finger or the palm of the hand is rubbed over the pitch to smooth it down before it hardens4 ,leaks ,water is placed inside1 and the leaky places marked1 to be stopped when dry4 ,a can of rosin is usually carried in the canoe1 and when a leak occurs1 the canoe is taken out of the water1 the leak discovered by sucking1 the place dried with a torch of wood or birch bark1 and the pitch applied4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aja4--;,from photograph of ,indian building a birch-bark canoe4 ,paddles are made of rock maple1 and sometimes of birch and even cedar4 ,bow paddles are usually longer and narrower in the blade than stern paddles 7,fig4 #aja74 ,bottom ,protection ,sometimes the canoe is shod with shoes1 or strips of cedar1 laid lengthwise and tied to the outside of the bark with ash splits that pass through holes in the cedar shoes1 and are brought up around the sides of the canoe and tied to each cross-bar4 ,this protects the bottom of the boat from the sharp rocks that abound in some rapid streams4 ,all canoes are of the general shape of the one described1 though this is considerably varied in different localities1 some being built with high rolling bows1 some slender1 some wider1 some nearly straight on the bottom1 others decidedly curved4 ,besides the two paddles the canoe should carry a pole ten feet long1 made of a slender spruce1 whittled so as to be about one and three-fourths inch in diameter in the middle and smaller at either end1 and having at one end either a ring and a spike or else a pointed cap of iron4 ,the pole is used for propelling the canoe up swift streams4 ,this1 says ,tappan ,adney1 is absolutely indispensable4 ,the person using the pole stands in one end1 or nearer the middle if alone1 and pushes the canoe along close to the bank1 so as to take advantage of the eddies1 guiding the canoe with one motion1 only to be learned by practice1 and keeping the pole usually on the side next the bank4 ,where the streams have rocky and pebbly bottoms poling is easy1 but in muddy or soft bottoms it is tiresome work2 muddy bottoms1 however1 are not usually found in rapid waters4 ,a ,canvas ,canoe can be made by substituting canvas in the place of birch bark2 and if it is kept well painted it makes not only a durable but a very beautiful boat4 ,the writer once owned a canvas canoe that was at least fifteen years old and still in good condition4 ,about six yards of ten-ounce cotton canvas1 fifty inches wide1 will be sufficient to cover a canoe1 and it will require two papers of four-ounce copper tacks to secure the canvas on the frame4 ,the boat should be placed1 deck down1 upon two horses or wooden supports1 such as you see carpenters and builders use4 ,fold the canvas lengthwise1 so as to find the centre1 then tack the centre of one end of the cloth to top of bow-piece1 or stem1 using two or three tacks to hold it securely4 ,stretch the cloth the length of the boat1 pull it taut1 with the centre line of the canvas over the keel line of the canoe1 and tack the centre of the other end of the cloth to the top of the stern-piece4 ,if care has been taken thus far1 an equal portion of the covering will lap the gunwale on each side of the boat4 ,begin amidships and drive the tacks1 about two inches apart1 along the gunwale and an inch below the deck 7on the outside74 ,tack about two feet on one side1 pull the cloth tightly across1 and tack it about three feet on the other side4 ,continue to alternate1 tacking on one side and then the other1 until finished4 ,with the hands and fingers knead the cloth so as to thicken or full it where it would otherwise wrinkle1 and it will be possible to stretch the canvas without cutting it over the frame4 ,the cloth that projects beyond the gunwale may be used for the deck1 or it may be cut off after bringing it over and tacking upon the inside of the gunwale1 leaving the canoe open like a birch-bark4 ,to ,paddle a ,canoe ,no one can expect to learn to paddle a canoe from a book1 however explicit the directions may be4 ,there is only one way to learn to swim and that is by going into the water and trying it1 and the only proper way to learn to paddle a canoe is to paddle one until you catch the knack4 ,in the ordinary canoe1 to be found at the summer watering places1 there are cane seats and they are always too high for safety4 ,a top load on any sort of a boat is always dangerous1 and every real canoeist seats his passengers on the bottom of the boat and kneels on the bottom himself while paddling4 ,of course1 one's knees will feel more comfortable if there is some sort of a cushion under them1 and a passenger will be less liable to get wet if he has a pneumatic cushion on which to sit4 ,no expert canoeist paddles alternately first on the one side1 and then on the other2 on the contrary1 he takes pride in his ability to keep his paddle continuously on either side that suits his convenience4 ,the ,indians of the ,north ,woods are probably the best paddlers1 and from them we can take points in the art4 ,it is from them we first learned the use of the canoe1 for our open canvas canoes of to-day are practically modelled on the lines of the old birch-barks4 ,illustration3 ,from photographs taken especially for this book by ,mr4 ,f4 ,k4 ,vreeland1 ,camp ,fire ,club of ,america4 ,fig4 #ajb4--;,beginning of stroke4 ,paddle should not be reached farther forward than this4 ,it is immersed edgewise 7not point first7 with a slicing motion4 ,note the angle of paddle--rear face of blade turned outward to avoid tendency of canoe to turn4 ,staff of paddle is #f inches too short4 ,left hand should be lower4 ,fig4 #ajb;a4--,a moment later4 ,right hand pushing forward1 left hand swinging down4 ,left hand should be lower on full-sized paddle4 ,fig4 #ajc4--,putting the power of the body in the stroke by bending slightly forward4 ,left hand held stationary from now on1 to act as fulcrum4 ,the power comes from the right arm and shoulders4 ,fig4 #ajc;a4--,the final effort1 full weight of the body on the paddle4 ,the right arm and body are doing the work1 the left arm 7which is weak at this point7 acting as fulcrum4 ,note twist of the right wrist to give blade the proper angle4 ,fig4 #ajd4--;,end of stroke4 ,arms relaxed and body straightening4 ,fig4 #ajd;a4--,beginning of recovery4 ,paddle slides out of water gently4 ,note that blade is perfectly flat on the surface4 ,no steering action is required4 ,if the canoe tends to swerve it is because the stroke was not correct4 ,only a duffer steers with his paddle after the stroke is over4 ,the left hand now moves forward1 the right swinging out and back1 moving paddle forward horizontally4 ,fig4 #ajd;b4--,turning to right4 ,the latter part of a broad sweep outward1 away from the canoe4 ,the blade is now being swept toward the canoe1 the left hand pulling in1 the right pushing out4 ,position of right wrist shows that blade has the opposite slant to that shown in the straightaway stroke--i4 e41 the near face of blade is turned inward4 ,blade leaves water with outer edge up4 ,wake of canoe shows sharpness of turn4 ,fig4 #ajd;c4--,turning to left4 ,the last motion of a stroke in which the paddle is swept close to the canoe with the blade turned much farther outward than in the straightaway stroke4 ,at end of stroke blade is given an outward sweep and leaves the water with the inner edge up4 ,this is not a steering or dragging motion4 ,it is a powerful sweep of the paddle4 ,note swirl in wake of canoe showing sharp turn4 ,when you are standing upright and your paddle is in front of you with the blade upon the ground1 the handle should reach to your eye-brows4 7,see ,figs4 #aja1 #ajb1 #ajc1 etc47 ,kneel with the paddle across the canoe and not farther forward than the knees4 ,then dip the blade edgewise 7not point first7 by raising the upper hand without bending the elbow4 ,swing the paddle back1 keeping it close to the canoe1 and give a little twist to the upper wrist to set the paddle at the proper angle shown in the photos4 ,the exact angle depends upon the trim of the boat1 the wind1 etc41 and must be such that the canoe does not swerve at any part of the stroke1 but travels straight ahead4 ,the lower arm acts mainly as a fulcrum and does not move back and forth more than a foot4 ,the power comes from the upper arm and shoulder1 and the body bends forward as the weight is thrown on the paddle4 ,the stroke continues until the paddle slides out of the water endwise1 flat on the surface4 ,then for recovery the blade is brought forward by a swing from the shoulder1 not lifting it vertically1 but swinging it horizontally with the blade parallel to the water and the upper hand low4 ,when it reaches a point opposite the knee it is slid into the water again1 edgewise1 for another stroke4 ,the motion is a more or less rotary one1 like stirring cake1 not a simple movement back and forth4 ,to ,carry a ,canoe ,to pick up a canoe and carry it requires not only the knack but also muscle1 and no undeveloped boy should make the attempt1 as he might strain himself1 with serious results4 ,but there are plenty of young men--good1 husky fellows--who can learn to do this without any danger of injury if they are taught how to lift by a competent physical instructor4 ,to pick up a canoe for a carry1 stoop over and grasp the middle brace with the right arm extended1 and a short hold with the left hand1 as shown in ,fig4 #aje4 ,when you have a secure hold1 hoist the canoe up on your legs1 as shown in ,fig4 #ajf4 ,without stopping the motion give her another boost1 until you have the canoe with the upper side above your head1 as in ,fig4 #ajg4 ,in the diagram the paddles are not spread apart as far as they should be4 ,if the paddles are too close together a fall may break ones neck4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajf4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aje4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajg4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajh4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aji4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaj4--,northern ,quebec ,indians crossing the ladder portage4 ,now turn the canoe over your head and slide your head between the paddles 7which are lashed to the spreaders1 as shown in ,fig4 #aje71 and twist your body around as you let the canoe settle down over your head 7,fig4 #ajh74 ,if you have a sweater or a coat1 it will help your shoulders by making a roll of it to serve as a pad under the paddles1 as in ,fig4 #aji4 ,i have seen an ,indian carry a canoe in this manner on a dog-trot over a five-mile portage without resting4 ,i also have seen ,indians carry canoes over mountains1 crossing by the celebrated ,ladder ,portage in western ,quebec1 where the only means of scaling a cliff is by ascending a ladder made of notched logs4 ,for real canoe work it is necessary that a man should know how to carry his craft across country from one body of water to another4 ,all through the ,lakelands of ,canada1 and also the ,lake ,st4 ,john district1 up to ,hudson ,bay itself1 the only trails are by water1 with portage across from one stream or lake to the other4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,how ,,to ,,build ,a ,,paddling ,,dory ,a ,simple ,boat ,which ,any ,one ,can ,build--,the ,cheapest ,sort of a ,boat ,,to construct this craft it is1 of course1 necessary that we shall have some lumber1 but we will use the smallest amount and the expense will come within the limits of a small purse4 ,first we must have two boards1 their lengths depending upon circumstances and the lumber available4 ,the ones in the diagram are supposed to be of pine to measure 7after being trimmed7 #ah feet long by #ah inches wide and about #a inch thick4 ,when the boards are trimmed down so as to be exact duplicates of each other1 place one board over the other so that their edges all fit exactly and then nail each end of the two boards together for the distance of about six inches4 ,turn the boards over and nail them upon the opposite side in the same manner1 clamping the nail ends if they protrude4 ,do this by holding the head of a hammer or a stone against the heads of the nails while you hold a wire nail against the protruding end1 and with a hammer bend it over the nail until it can be mashed flat against the board so that it will not project beyond its surface4 ,after you have proceeded thus far1 take some pieces of tin 7,fig4 #aab7 and bend the ragged edges over1 so as to make a clean1 straight fold1 and hammer it down flat until there are no rough or raw edges exposed4 ,now tack a piece of this tin over the end of the boards which composed the sides of the boat1 as in ,fig4 #aad4 ,make the holes for the tacks first by driving the pointed end of a wire nail through the tin where you wish the tacks to go and then tack the tin snugly and neatly on1 after which tack on another piece of tin on both bow and stern1 as in ,fig4 #aaf4 ,this will hold the two ends of the boards securely together so that they may be carefully sprung apart in the middle to receive the middle mould which is to hold them in shape until the bottom of the boat is nailed on1 and the permanent thwarts1 or seats1 fastened inside4 ,when the latter are permanently fixed they will keep the boat in shape4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaa4--,parts of dory4 ,to make the mould1 which is only a temporary thing1 you may use any rough board1 or boards nailed together with cleats to hold them4 ,the mould should be #b feet #f inches long and #a foot #d inches high4 ,fig4 #aaa will show you how to cut off the ends to give the proper slant4 ,the dotted lines show the board before it is trimmed in shape4 ,by measuring along the edge of the board from each end #aj4h inches and marking the points1 and then1 with a carpenter's pencil ruling the diagonal lines to the other edge and ends of the board1 the triangles may be sawed off with a hand saw4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aac4 ,fig4 #aad4 ,fig4 #aab4 ,fig4 #aae4 ,fig4 #aaf4 ,the simple details of the dory4 ,fig4 #aaa shows where the mould is to be placed in the center of the two side boards4 ,as the boards in this diagram are supposed to be on the slant1 and consequently in the perspective1 they do not appear as wide as they really are4 ,the diagram is made also with the ends of the side boards free so as to better show the position of the mould4 ,but when the side boards are sprung apart and the mould placed in position 7,fig4 #aac71 it will appear as in ,fig4 #aaf or ,fig4 #aag4 ,fig4 #aae shows the shape of the stem-posts to be set in both bow and stern and nailed securely in place4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aah4 ,top views of dory and parts of dory4 ,when you have gone thus far fit in two temporary braces near the bow and stern1 as shown in ,fig4 #aag4 ,these braces are simply narrow pieces of boards held in position by nails driven through the outside of the boat1 the latter left with their heads protruding1 so that they may be easily drawn when necessary4 ,now turn the boat over bottom up and you will find that the angle at which the sides are bent will cause the bottom boards to rest upon a thin edge of the side boards1 as shown in ,fig4 #aai4 ,with an ordinary jack-plane trim this down so that the bottom boards will rest flush and snug1 as in ,fig4 #abj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aah4 ,how to ,calk a ,boat so ,that ,it ,won't ,leak ,if you wish to make a bottom that will never leak1 not even when it is placed in the water for the first time1 plane off the boards on their sides1 so that when fitted together they will leave a triangular groove between each board1 as shown in ,fig4 #aah4 ,these grooves will show upon the inside of the boat1 and not upon the outside1 and in this case the calking is done from the inside and not from the outside4 ,they are first calked with candlewick1 over which putty is used1 but for a rough boat it is not even necessary to use any calking4 ,when the planks swell they will be forced together1 so as to exclude all water4 ,to fasten the bottom on the boat put a board lengthwise at the end1 as shown in ,fig4 #aba4 ,one end shows the end board as it is first nailed on1 and the other end shows it after it has been trimmed off to correspond with the sides of the boat4 ,now put your short pieces of boards for the bottom on one at a time1 driving each one snug up against its neighbor before nailing it in place and leaving the rough or irregular ends of each board protrude on each side1 as shown at the right-hand end of ,fig4 #aba4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aag4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aai4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aba4 ,top view with sides in place1 also reversed view showing how bottom boards are laid4 ,when all the boards are nailed in place 7by beginning at one end and fitting them against each other until the other end is reached7 they may be trimmed off with a saw 7,fig4 #aba7 and your boat is finished with the exception of the thwarts1 or seats4 ,if you intend to propel this with paddles like a canoe1 you will need a seat in the centre for your passenger1 and this may be placed in the position occupied by the form 7,figs4 #aaa and #aag7 after the latter is removed4 ,to fit a seat in it is only necessary to cut two cleats and nail them to the sides of the boat for the seat to rest upon and saw off a board the proper length to fit upon the cleats4 ,it would be well now to fasten the braces in the bow and stern permanently1 adjusting them to suit your convenience4 ,the seat should be as low as possible for safety4 ,with this your paddling dory is finished1 and may be used even without being painted4 ,a coat of paint1 however1 improves not only the looks but the tightness and durability of any boat4 ,we have now advanced so far in our boat-building that it becomes necessary that the beginner should learn more about boats and boating1 and since this book is written for beginners1 we will take it for granted that they know absolutely nothing about the subject and will give all the rudimentary knowledge for landlubbers in the next chapter4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,the ,,landlubber',s ,,chapter ,common ,nautical ,terms and ,expressions ,defined--,how to ,sail a ,boat--,boat ,rigs--,rowing-clothes--,how to ,make a ,bathing-suit--,how to ,avoid ,sunburn ,,there are a few common terms with which all who venture on the water should be familiar1 not only for convenience1 but for prudential reasons4 ,accidents are liable to happen to boats of all descriptions1 and often the safety of property and life depend upon the passengers' ability to understand what is said to them by the officers or sailors in charge of the craft4 ,to those who are familiar with the water and shipping it may seem absurd to define the bow and stern of a boat1 but there are people who will read this book who cannot tell the bow from the stern1 so we will begin this chapter with the statement that ,the bow is the front end of the boat1 and ,the stern is the rear end of the boat4 ,for'ard is toward the bow of the boat4 ,aft is toward the stern of the boat4 ,both terms are used by sailors as forward and backward are used by landsmen4 ,the hull is the boat itself without masts1 spars1 or rigging4 ,a skiff and a birch-bark canoe are hulls4 ,the keel is the piece of timber running along the centre of the bottom of the hull1 like the runner of a skate1 and used to give the boat a hold on the water1 so that she will not slide sideways4 ,when you are sitting in the stern of a boat1 facing the bow1 the side next to your right hand is the right-hand side of the boat1 and the side next to your left hand is the left-hand side of the boat4 ,but these terms are not used by seamen2 they always say ,starboard for the right-hand side of the boat1 and ,port for the left-hand side of the boat4 ,formerly the left-hand side was called the larboard1 but this occasioned many serious mistakes on account of the similarity of the sound of larboard and starboard when used in giving orders4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abb4--,top view of small boat4 ,red and ,green ,lights ,after dark a red light is carried on the port side and a green light on the starboard side of all vessels in motion4 ,if you can remember that port wine is red1 and that the port light is of the same color1 you will always be able to tell in which direction an approaching craft is pointing by the relative location of the lights4 ,when both lights you see ahead1 ,port your helm and show your red6 ,green to green and red to red1 ,you're all right1 and go ahead6 ,if you are a real landlubber1 the verse quoted will be of little service1 because you will not know how to port your helm4 ,in fact1 you probably will not know where to look for the helm or what it looks like2 but only a few of our readers are out-and-out landlubbers1 and most of them know that the helm is in some way connected with the steering apparatus4 ,the rudder is the movable piece of board at the stern of the boat by means of which the craft is guided4 ,the rudder is moved by a lever1 ropes1 or a wheel4 ,the tiller is the lever for moving the rudder1 or the ropes used for the same purpose 7,fig4 #abc74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abc4--;,helm--,lever1 or stick1 for tiller4 ,the wheel is the wheel whose spokes end in handles on the outer edge of the rim1 or felly1 and it is used for moving the rudder 7,fig4 #abd74 ,the helm is that particular part of the steering apparatus that you put your hands on when steering4 ,the deck is the roof of the hull4 ,the centreboard is an adjustable keel that can be raised or lowered at pleasure4 ,it is an ,american invention4 ,the centreboard1 as a rule1 is only used on comparatively small vessels4 ,the inventor of the centreboard is ,mr4 ,salem ,wines1 who kept a shop on ,water ,street1 near ,market ,slip1 and1 when alive1 was a well-known ,new ,york boat-builder4 ,his body now lies in ,greenwood ,cemetery1 and upon the headstone of his grave is the inscription1 ,the ,inventor of the ,centreboard4 ,for sailing1 the boat1 or hull1 is rigged with masts and spars for spreading the sails to catch the wind4 ,the masts are the upright poles1 or sticks1 that hold the sails4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abd4--;,helm--,the wheel4 ,the yards are the poles1 or sticks1 at right angles with the masts that spread the sails4 ,the boom is the movable spar at the bottom of the sail4 ,the gaff is the pole1 or spar1 for spreading the top1 or head1 of the sail 7,fig4 #abe74 ,the sail is a big canvas kite1 of which the boom1 gaff1 and masts are the kite-sticks4 ,you must not understand by this that the sail goes soaring up in the air1 for the weight of the hull prevents that2 but if you make fast a large kite to the mast of a boat it would be a sail1 and if you had a line long and strong enough1 and should fasten any spread sail to it1 there can be no doubt that the sail would fly4 ,the spars are the masts1 bowsprit1 yards1 and gaffs4 ,the bowsprit is the stick1 or sprit1 projecting from the bow of the boat 7,fig4 #afa1 ,sloop74 ,the foremast is the mast next to the bow--the forward mast 7,fig4 #aei1 ,ship74 ,the mainmast is the second mast--the mast next to the foremast4 ,mizzen-mast is the mast next to and back of the mainmast 7,fig4 #aei1 ,ship74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abe4--;,a sail4 ,the rigging of a boat consists of the ropes1 or lines1 attached to its masts and sails1 but a boat's rig refers to the number of masts as well as to the shape of its sails4 ,stays are strong ropes supporting the masts1 fore and aft4 ,shrouds are strong ropes reaching from the mastheads to the sides of the vessel2 supports for the masts1 starboard and port4 ,ratlines are the little ropes that form the steps1 or foot ropes1 that run crosswise between the shrouds4 ,the painter is the rope at the bow of a small boat1 used for the same purpose as is a hitching-strap on a horse4 ,the standing rigging consists of the stays and shrouds4 ,the running rigging consists of all the ropes used in handling yards and sails4 ,the sheets are the ropes1 or lines1 attached to the corners of sails1 by which they are governed 7,fig4 #abf74 ,the main sheet is the rope that governs the mainsail4 ,the jib-sheet is the rope that governs the jib-sail4 ,the gaskets are the ropes used in lashing the sails when furled4 ,the braces are the ropes used in swinging the yards around4 ,the jib-stay is the stay that runs from the foremast to the bowsprit4 ,the bob-stay is practically an extension of the jib-stay and the chief support of the spars4 ,it connects the bow of the boat with the bowsprit and prevents the latter from bobbing up and down4 ,besides the port and starboard sides of a boat there are the windward and leeward sides4 ,do not understand by this that the boat has four sides1 like a square4 ,windward may be the port or the starboard side1 according to the direction the wind blows2 because ,windward means the side of the boat against which the wind blows--the side where the wind climbs aboard2 or it may mean the direction from which the wind comes4 ,the opposite side is called ,leeward--that is1 the side of the boat opposite to that against which the wind blows1 where the wind tumbles overboard1 or the side opposite to windward4 ,when you are sailing you may be near a ,lee ,shore--that is1 the shore on your lee side against which the wind blows2 or a ,windward ,shore--that is1 the land on your windward side from which the wind blows4 ,all seamen dread a lee shore1 as it is a most dangerous shore to approach1 from the fact that the wind is doing its best to blow you on the rocks or beach4 ,but the windward shore can be approached with safety1 because the wind will keep you off the rocks1 and if it is blowing hard1 the land will break the force of the wind4 ,in a canoe or shell the boatman sits either directly on the bottom1 or1 as in the shell1 very close to it1 and the weight of his body serves to keep the boat steady1 but larger crafts seldom rely upon live weights to steady them4 ,they use ,ballast--that is1 weights of stone1 lead1 iron1 or sand-bags1 used to balance the boat and make her steady4 ,as has been said before in this chapter1 the sail is a big canvas kite made fast to the boat and called a sail1 but the ordinary kite has its covering stretched permanently on rigid sticks4 ,the sail1 however1 can be stretched to its full extent or only partially1 or it may be rolled up1 exposing nothing but the masts to the force of the wind4 ,to accomplish all this there are various ropes and attachments1 all of which are named4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abf4--,sail and sheet4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abg4--,parts of sail4 ,it is quite important that the beginner should know the names of all the ,parts of a ,sail ,luff4--,that part of the sail adjoining the mast--the front of the sail 7,fig4 #abg74 ,leach4-,that part of the sail stretched between the outer or after end of the boom and the outer end of the gaff--the back part of the sail 7,fig4 #abg74 ,head4--,that part of the sail adjoining the gaff--the top of the sail4 ,foot4--,that part of the sail adjoining the boom--the bottom of the sail 7,fig4 #abg74 ,clews4--,a general name for the four corners of the sail4 ,clew4--,the particular corner at the foot of the sail where the leach and boom meet 7,fig4 #abg74 ,tack4--,the corner of the sail where boom and mast meet 7,fig4 #abg74 ,throat1 or ,nock4--,the corner of the sail where gaff and mast meet 7,fig4 #abg74 ,peak4--,corner of the sail where the leach and gaff meet 7,fig4 #abg74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abh4--,starboard helm4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abi--,port helm4 ,how to ,steer a ,boat ,when you wish your boat to turn to the right push your helm to the left4 ,this will push the rudder to the right and turn the boat in that direction4 ,when you wish your boat to turn to the left push your helm to the right4 ,in other words1 starboard your helm and you will turn to the port 7,fig4 #abh74 ,port your helm and you will turn to the starboard 7,fig4 #abi74 ,from a reference to the diagram you may see that when you port your helm you move the tiller to the port side of the boat1 and when you starboard your helm you move your tiller to the starboard side of the boat 7,fig4 #abh71 but to ease your helm you move your helm toward the centre of the boat--that is1 amidships4 ,how to ,sail a ,boat ,if you fasten the bottom of a kite to the ground1 you will find that the wind will do its best to blow the kite over1 and if the kite is fastened to the mast of a toy boat1 the wind will try to blow the boat over4 ,in sailing a boat the effort of the wind apparently has but one object1 and that is the upsetting of the boat4 ,the latter1 being well balanced1 is constantly endeavoring to sit upright on its keel1 and you1 as a sailor1 are aiding the boat in the struggle1 at the same time subverting the purpose of the wind to suit your own ideas4 ,it is an exciting game1 in which man usually comes out ahead1 but the wind gains enough victories to keep its courage up4 ,every boat has peculiarities of its own1 and good traits as well as bad ones1 which give the craft a personal character that lends much to your interest1 and even affects your sensibilities to the extent of causing you to have the same affection for a good1 trustworthy craft that you have for an intelligent and kind dog or horse4 ,a properly balanced sail-boat1 with main sheet trimmed flat and free helm1 should be as sensitive as a weathercock and act like one--that is1 she ought to swing around until her bow pointed right into the eye of the wind1 the direction from which the wind blows4 ,such a craft it is not difficult to sail1 but it frequently happens that the boat that is given to you to sail is not properly balanced1 and shows a constant tendency to come up in the wind--face the wind--when you are doing your best to keep her sails full and keep her on her course4 ,this may be caused by too much sail aft4 ,the boat is then said to carry a weather helm4 ,weather ,helm4--,when a boat shows a constant tendency to come up in the wind4 ,lee ,helm4--,when a boat shows a constant tendency to fall off the wind--that is1 when the wind blows her bow to the leeward4 ,this is a much worse trait than the former1 and a boat with a lee helm is a dangerous boat4 ,it may be possible to remedy it by adding sail aft or reducing sail forward1 which should immediately be done4 ,in spite of the fact1 already stated1 that the wind's constant effort is to capsize a boat1 there is little or no danger of a properly rigged boat upsetting unless the sheets are fast or hampered in some way4 ,when a sail-boat upsets it is1 of course1 because the wind blows it over4 ,now1 the wind cannot blow a boat over unless the boat presents some surface larger than its hull for the wind to blow against1 and the sail is the only object that offers enough surface to the breeze to cause an upset4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acj--;,close-hauled4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aca4--;,before the wind4 ,illustration3 ,top view of boats1 showing position of helm and boom4 ,if the sheet is slackened1 the sail will swing around until it flaps like a flag and only the thin edge is presented to the wind2 and a boat that a flag will upset is no boat for beginners to trust themselves in4 ,true1 the boom may be very long and heavy enough to make it dangerous to let so much of it overboard1 but this is seldom the case4 ,a good sailor keeps his eyes constantly on the sails and trims them to take advantage of the slightest favorable breeze4 ,in place of losing control of his sail by letting go the sheets he will ease the tiller so as to spill part of the wind that is1 let the forward part1 or luff1 of the sail shake a bit4 ,or1 in case of a sudden puff of wind1 he may deem it necessary to luff--that is1 let her shake--and slacken the sheets too4 ,trimmed ,flat4--,sheets hauled in until the boom is only a little to the leeward of the helm 7,fig4 #acj74 ,close-hauled4--,sheets trimmed flat and the boat pointing as near as possible to the eye of the wind4 ,then the sail cannot belly1 and is called flat 7,fig4 #acj74 ,to ,sail ,close-hauled ,the skipper must watch that his sail does not flap or ripple at the throat1 for that means that he is pointing too close to the wind and that some of the breeze is blowing on both sides of his sail1 which even a novice can see will retard the boat4 ,upon discovering a rippling motion at the luff of the sail put the helm up--that is1 move the tiller a little to windward until the sail stops its flapping4 ,before the ,wind4--,when the wind is astern2 sailing with the wind2 sailing directly from windward to leeward 7,fig4 #aca74 ,in order to reach the desired point it is often expedient to sail before the wind1 but unless the wind is light1 beginners had better not try this4 ,to sail before the wind you let your sheets out until the boom stands at almost right angles with the boat4 ,keep your eye on the sail and see that it does not flap1 for if the man at the helm is careless and allows the boat to point enough away from the direction of the wind to allow the wind to get on the other side of the sail1 the latter will swing around or jibe with such force as to endanger the mast1 if it does not knock some one overboard4 ,the price of liberty is constant vigilance1 and the price of a good sail is the same4 ,i have seen a mast snapped off clean at the deck by a jibe1 and once when out after ducks every one was so intent upon the game that proper attention was not paid to the sail4 ,the wind got round and brought the boom with a swing aft1 knocking the captain of our boat club overboard4 ,had the boom hit him in the head and stunned him1 the result might have been fatal4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acb4--;,boom hauled in4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acc4--,on new course4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aca4--;,before the wind4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #aca1 #acb1 and #acc4--;,jibing4 ,wing and ,wing4--,when a schooner goes before the wind with one sail out at nearly right angles on the port side and the other in the same position on the starboard side she is said to be wing and wing and presents a beautiful sight4 ,tacking4--,working to the windward by a series of diagonal moves4 ,legs4--,the moves or diagonal courses made in tacking4 ,it is apparent to the most unthinking observer that no vessel propelled by sail can move against the direct course of the wind--that is1 nothing but electricity1 naphtha1 steam1 or some such power can drive a boat into the eye of the wind4 ,but what cannot be accomplished in a direct manner can be done by a series of compromises1 each of which will bring us nearer to the desired point4 ,first we point the boat to the right or left1 as the case may be1 as near or as close to the wind as the boat will sail4 ,then we come about and sail in the other direction as close as practicable to the eye of the wind1 and each time we gain something in a direct line4 ,when your boat changes its direction on a tack it is done by jibing1 or coming about4 ,jibing4--,with the wind on the quarter1 haul the main boom aft or amidship with all possible speed1 by means of the main sheets 7,fig4 #acb71 and as the wind strikes the sail on the other side let it out as deliberately as possible until it reaches the position desired 7,fig4 #acc74 ,beginners should never attempt to jibe1 for if there is more than a capful of wind1 the sail will probably get away from them1 and1 as described in going before the wind1 some disaster is liable to occur4 ,experts only jibe in light winds1 and frequently lower the peak1 so as to reduce sail1 before attempting a jibe4 ,coming ,about ,when you wish to come about see that all the tackle1 ropes1 etc41 are clear and in working order1 and that you are making good headway2 then call out3 ,helm's a-lee6 or ,ready about6 and push the tiller in the direction opposite to that from which the wind blows--that is1 to the lee side of the boat4 ,this will bring the bow around until the wind strikes the sail upon the side opposite to that which it struck before the helm was a-lee 7,figs4 #acd1 #ace1 #acf1 #acg74 ,if you are aboard a sloop or schooner1 ease off the jib-sheet1 but keep control of it1 so that as the boat comes up to the wind you can make the jib help the bow around by holding the sheets so as to catch the wind aback4 ,when the bow of the craft has passed the eye of the wind and the sail begins to fill give the order to make fast1 or trim1 the jib1 and off you go upon the opposite tack1 or on a new leg4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #acd1 #ace1 #acf1 and #acg4--;,coming about4 ,if the wind is light1 or if1 for any cause1 the boat works slowly1 you can sometimes help her by trimming in the main sheet when you let the jib-sheet fly4 ,in the diagram of coming about no jib is shown4 ,wearing is a term sometimes used in place of jibing4 ,in a ,thunder-storm ,a thunder-storm is always an uncertain thing4 ,there may be a veritable tornado hidden in the black clouds that we see rising on the horizon1 or it may simply iron out the wind--that is1 go grumbling overhead--and leave us becalmed1 to get home the best way we can2 generally by what the boys call a white-ash breeze--that is1 by using the sweeps or oars4 ,on ,long ,island ,sound a thunder-storm seems to have certain fixed rules of conduct4 ,in the first place1 it comes up from the leeward1 or against the wind4 ,just before the storm strikes you for an instant the wind ceases and the sails flap idly4 ,then look out6 for in nine cases out of ten you are struck the next moment by a sudden squall from exactly the opposite direction from which the wind blew a moment before4 ,what to ,do ,make for the nearest port with all speed1 and keep a man at the downhaul ready at a moment's notice to lower sail4 ,the moment the wind stops drop the sail and make everything snug1 leaving only bare poles4 ,when the thunder-squall strikes you1 be it ever so hard1 you are now in little danger2 and if the wind from the new quarter is not too fresh1 you can hoist sail again and make the best of your way to the nearest port1 where you can get in out of the wet4 ,if the wind is quite fresh keep your peak down1 and with a reefed sail speed on your way4 ,if it is a regular howler1 let your boat drive before the wind under bare poles until you can find shelter or until it blows over1 and the worst mishap you are likely to incur is a good soaking from the rain4 ,shortening ,sail4--,just as soon as the boat heels over too far for safety1 or as soon as you are convinced that there is more wind than you need for comfortable sailing1 it is time to take a reef--that is1 to roll up the bottom of the sail to the row of little ropes1 or reefing points1 on the sail and make fast there4 ,this1 of course1 makes a smaller sail1 and that is what you wish4 ,while under way it will be found impossible to reef a sail except when sailing close-hauled4 ,so the boat is brought up into the wind by pushing the helm down1 as if you intended to come about4 ,when possible it is better to lower the sail entirely before attempting to put in a reef4 ,to ,reef ,without ,lowering ,sail ,it sometimes happens that on account of the proximity of a lee shore1 and the consequent danger of drifting in that direction1 or for some other equally good reason1 it is inadvisable to lower sail and lose headway4 ,under such circumstances the main sheet must be trimmed flat1 keeping the boat as close as possible to the wind1 the helm must be put up hard a-lee1 and jib-sheet trimmed to windward 7,fig4 #ach74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ach4--,squirming2 jib on port side1 boom close-hauled on starboard side4 ,when this is done the wind will hit the jib1 paying her head off1 or pushing her bow to leeward1 and this tendency is counteracted by the helm and mainsail1 bringing the bow up into the wind4 ,this keeps the boat squirming4 ,lower the mainsail until the row of reef points is just on a line with the boom1 keeping to the windward of the sail4 ,tie the first point--that is1 the one on the luff rope--then the one on the leach1 being careful to stretch out the foot of the sail4 ,then tie the remaining points1 always making a square or reefing knot4 ,tie them to the jack-stay on the boom or around the boom4 ,the ,reef or ,square ,knot is most frequently used1 as its name implies1 in reefing sails4 ,first make a plain overhand knot1 as in ,fig4 #aci4 ,then repeat the operation by taking the end and passing it over and under the loop1 drawing the parts tight1 as shown in ,fig4 #adj4 ,care should be observed in crossing the ends so that they will always lay fairly alongside the main parts4 ,otherwise the knot will prove a granny and be comparatively worthless4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #aci and #adj4--,square or reef knot4 ,to ,shake ,out a ,reef untie the knots1 keeping to the windward of the sail4 ,untie the knot at the leach first1 next the one at the luff1 and then the remaining points4 ,in lowering a sail you use a rope called the downhaul4 ,starboard ,tack4--,when the main boom is over the port side4 ,port ,tack4--,when the main boom is over the starboard side4 ,right of ,way4--,all boats sailing on the starboard tack have the right of way over all those on the port tack4 ,in other words1 if you are on the starboard tack1 those on the port tack must keep out of your way4 ,any boat sailing close-hauled has the right of way over a boat sailing free4 ,lights for ,canoe ,a canoe under sail at night should have an uncolored lantern hung to her mizzen-mast to notify other craft that she is out and objects to being run down4 ,the light is put on the mizzen so that it may be behind the skipper and not dazzle him4 ,what you have read in the foregoing pages will not be found very difficult to remember1 but there is only one way to learn to sail and that is by sailing4 ,if possible1 sail with some one who is a good seaman4 ,if this sort of companion cannot be had1 try it alone on smooth water and with short sail until you accustom yourself to the boat and its peculiarities4 ,no boy ever learned to skate or swim from books1 but books often have been helpful in giving useful hints to those who were really learning by practical experience4 ,some ,do ,nots ,do not overload the boat4 ,do not carry too much sail4 ,do not sail in strange waters without chart or compass4 ,do not forget your anchor4 ,do not forget your paddles or oars4 ,do not attempt to learn to sail before you know how to swim4 ,do not sit on the gunwale4 ,do not put the helm down too suddenly or too far4 ,do not let go the helm4 ,do not mistake caution for cowardice4 ,do not be afraid to reef4 ,do not fear the ridicule of other landlubbers4 ,do not fail to keep the halyards and sheets clear4 ,do not jibe in a stiff wind4 ,do not fail to keep your head in times of emergency4 ,do not make a display of bravery until the occasion demands it4 ,do not allow mistakes or mishaps to discourage you4 ,do not associate with a fool who rocks a boat4 ,you will soon become an expert and be able to engage in one of our most exhilarating1 healthy1 and manly sports and earn the proud distinction of being a good small-boat sailor4 ,it is ,necessary to ,learn to ,swim ,from the parents' point of view1 nowhere that a boy's restless nature impels him to go is fraught with so much peril as the water1 and nowhere is a boy happier than when he is on the water1 unless it is when he is in it4 ,nowhere can be found a better school for his young mind and body than that furnished by boating4 ,hence it appears to be the imperative duty for parents personally to see that their children are taught to swim as soon as their little limbs have strength enough to make the proper motions4 ,boating-,clothes ,in aquatic sports of all kinds1 if you expect to have fun1 you must dress appropriately4 ,you should have a suit of old clothes that you can change for dry ones when the sport is over4 ,when boating1 it is nonsense to pretend you can keep dry under all the varying conditions of wind and weather4 ,if your purse is small1 and you want a good rowing-suit1 it can be made of last winter's woollen underclothes1 and will answer for the double purpose of rowing and bathing4 ,how to ,make a ,bathing-,suit ,first take an old woollen undershirt and cut the sleeves off above the elbows4 ,then coax your mother1 aunt1 or sister to sew it up in front like a sweater1 and hem the edges of the sleeves where they have just been cut off4 ,next take a pair of woollen drawers and have them sewed up in front1 leaving an opening at the top about four inches in length2 turn the top edge down all around to cover a piece of tape that should be long enough to tie in front4 ,have this hem or flap sewed down to cover the tape1 and allow the two ends of the tape to protrude at the opening in front4 ,the tape should not be sewed to the cloth1 but should move freely1 so that you can tighten or loosen it at will4 ,cut the drawers off at the knees and have the edges hemmed1 and you will have a first-class bathing or rowing-suit4 ,if woollen clothes are not to be had1 cotton will do1 but wool is coolest and warmest1 as the occasion may require4 ,when rowing wear old socks1 woollen ones if you have them1 and old shoes cut down like slippers4 ,the latter can be kicked off at a moment's notice1 and1 if lost1 they are of no value1 and may be easily replaced4 ,when on shore a long pair of woollen stockings to cover your bare legs and a sweater to pull over your sleeveless shirt are handy and comfortable1 but while sailing1 paddling1 or rowing in hot weather the rowing-suit is generally all that comfort requires4 ,of course1 if your skin is tender1 you are liable to be terribly sunburned on your arms1 neck1 and legs2 but ,sunburn may be avoided by gradually accustoming your limbs to the exposure4 ,dearly will you pay for your negligence if you go out for a day with bare arms or legs in the hot sun before you have toughened yourself1 and little will you sleep that night4 ,i have seen young men going to business the day following a regatta with no collars on their red necks1 and no shirt over their soft undershirts1 the skin being too tender to bear the touch of the stiff1 starched linen1 and ,i have known others who could not sleep a wink on account of the feverish state of their bodies1 caused by the hot sun and a tender skin4 ,most boys have had some experience from sunburn1 acquired while bathing4 ,if care is taken to cover your arms and legs after about an hour's exposure1 you will find that in place of being blistered1 your skin will be first pink and then a faint brownish tint1 which each succeeding exposure will deepen until your limbs will assume that dark1 rich mahogany color of which athletes are so proud4 ,this makes your skin proof against future attacks of the hottest rays of the sun4 ,besides the pain and discomfort of a sudden and bad sunburn on your arms1 the effect is not desirable1 as it is very liable to cover your arms with freckles4 ,i have often seen men with beautifully bronzed arms and freckled shoulders1 caused by going out in their shells first with short sleeves and then with shirts from which the sleeves were entirely cut away1 exposing the white1 tender shoulders to the fierce heat1 to which they were unaccustomed4 ,it is a good plan to cover the exposed parts of your body with sweet-oil1 vaseline1 mutton-tallow1 beef-tallow1 or lard4 ,this is good as a preventive while in the sun1 and excellent as an application after exposure4 ,any sort of oil or grease that does not contain salt is good for your skin4 ,clothes for ,canoeing ,in canoeing ,i have found it convenient to dress as ,i would in a shell boat1 but ,i generally have had a sweater and a pair of long trousers stowed away1 ready to be pulled on over my rowing-clothes when ,i landed4 ,once1 when ,i neglected to put these extra clothes aboard1 ,i was storm-bound up ,long ,island ,sound1 and1 leaving my boat1 ,i took the train home1 but ,i did not enjoy my trip1 for the bare legs and arms and knit cap attracted more attention than is pleasant for a modest man4 ,do not wear laced shoes in a canoe1 for experience has taught boating-men that about the most inconvenient articles of clothing to wear in the water are laced shoes4 ,while swimming your feet are of absolutely no use if incased in this style of foot-gear1 and all the work must be done with the arms4 ,but if you have old slippers1 they may be kicked off1 and then you are dressed practically in a bathing-suit1 and can swim with comfort and ease4 ,possibly these precautions may suggest the idea that a ducking is not at all an improbable accident1 and it must be confessed that the boy who thinks he can learn to handle small boats without an occasional unlooked-for swim is liable to discover his mistake before he has become master of his craft4 ,stick to ,your ,boat ,always remember that a wet head is a very small object in the water1 and liable to be passed by unnoticed1 but that a capsized boat can scarcely fail to attract attention and insure a speedy rescue from an awkward position4 ,as for the real danger of boating1 it cannot be great where care is used4 ,not one fatality has occurred on the water1 among all of my large circle of boating friends1 and personally ,i have never witnessed a fatal accident in all the years ,i have spent rowing and sailing4 ,life-,preservers ,all canoes should have a good cork life-preserver in them when the owner ventures away from land4 ,i never but once ventured any distance without one1 and that is the only time ,i was ever in need of a life-preserver4 ,the ordinary cork jacket is best4 ,it can be used for a seat1 and when spread on the bottom of your canoe1 with an old coat or some article thrown over it for a cushion1 it is not at all an uncomfortable seat4 ,most canoes have airtight compartments fore and aft--that is1 at both ends--and the boat itself is then a good life-preserver4 ,even without the airtight compartments1 unless your boat is loaded with ballast or freight1 there is no danger of its sinking4 ,a canvas canoe1 as a rule1 has enough woodwork about it to support your weight when the boat is full of water4 ,an upset canvas canoe supported me for an hour and a half during a blow on ,long ,island ,sound1 and had not a passing steamer rescued me1 the canoe would evidently have buoyed me up as long as ,i could have held on to the hull4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,how ,,to ,,rig ,,and ,,sail ,,small ,,boats ,how to ,make a ,lee-,board for a ,canoe ,,now that the open canvas canoe has become so popular the demand has arisen for some arrangement by which it may be used with sails4 ,of course it is an easy matter to rig sails on almost any sort of craft1 but unless there is a keel or a centreboard the boat will make lee-way1 i4 e41 it will have no hold on the water1 and when you try to tack1 the boat will blow sideways1 which may be fraught with serious results4 ,the only time that the author ever got in a serious scrape with his canoe1 was when he carelessly sailed out in a storm1 leaving the key to his fan centreboard at the boat-house4 ,being unable to let down the centreboard1 he was eventually driven out to sea1 and when he became too fatigued to move quickly was capsized4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adj4--,lee-board4 ,fig4 #adj;a4--,bolt and thumb-screw4 ,now to prevent such occurrences and to do away with the inconvenience of the centreboard in an open canoe1 various designs of lee-boards have been made4 ,a lee-board is1 practically speaking1 a double centreboard4 ,the paddle-like form of the blades of the boards given in ,fig4 #adj give them a good hold on the water when they are below the surface1 and they can also be allowed to swing clear of the water when temporarily out of use4 ,or they may be removed and stowed away in the canoe4 ,as you see by the diagram the two blades are connected by a spruce rod2 the blades themselves may be made of some hard wood1 like cherry1 and bevelled at the edges like a canoe-paddle4 ,they should be a scant foot in width and a few inches over two feet long1 and cut out of three-quarter-inch material4 ,the spruce cross-bar is about one and a half inch in diameter1 the ends of which are thrust through a hole in the upper end of each lee-board4 ,a small hole is bored in the top of each lee-board1 down through the ends of the cross-board1 and when a galvanized-iron pin is pushed down through this hole1 it will prevent the bar from turning in its socket4 ,a couple more galvanized-iron pins or bars fit in holes in the spruce cross-bar1 as shown in the diagram 7,fig4 #adj74 ,at the top end of each of these metal bolts is a thumb-screw which runs down over the thread of the bolt4 ,the bottom or lower end is bent at right angles that it may be fitted under the gunwale of the canoe1 and tightened by twisting the thumb-screws4 ,the advantage of this sort of arrangement is that the lee-boards may be slid backward or forward and so adjusted that the canoe will sail in the direction in which it is steered4 ,the place where the lee-board is to be fastened can only be found by experiment4 ,when it is too far toward the bow1 the boat will show a desire to come up against the wind1 thus making work for the steersman to keep the wind in the sails4 ,if the lee-board is fastened too far toward the stern the canoe will show a decided determination to swing around with its stern to the wind1 which is a dangerous trick for a well-trained craft to indulge in4 ,i have seen open canvas canoes at the outfitting stores marked as low as seventeen dollars1 but they usually cost twenty-five dollars or more1 and ,i would advise ambitious canoeists to build their own canoes1 and even to make their own lee-boards1 although it would be cheaper to buy the latter4 ,how to ,rig and ,sail ,small ,boats ,to have the tiller in one's own hands and feel competent1 under all ordinary circumstances1 to bring a boat safely into port1 gives the same zest and excitement to a sail 7only in a far greater degree7 that the handling of the whip and reins over a lively trotter does to a drive4 ,knowing and feeling this1 it was my intention to devote a couple of chapters to telling how to sail a boat2 but through the kind courtesy of the editor of ,the ,american ,canoeist1 ,i am able to do much better by giving my readers a talk on this subject by one whose theoretical knowledge and practical experience renders him pre-eminently fit to give reliable advice and counsel4 ,the following is what ,mr4 ,charles ,ledyard ,norton1 editor of the above-mentioned journal1 says3 ,very many persons seem to ignore the fact that a boy who knows how to manage a gun is1 upon the whole1 less likely to be shot than one who is a bungler through ignorance1 or that a good swimmer is less likely to be drowned than a poor one4 ,such1 however1 is the truth beyond question4 ,if a skilled sportsman is now and then shot1 or an expert swimmer drowned1 the fault is not apt to be his own1 and if the one who is really to blame had received proper training1 it is not likely that the accident would have occurred at all4 ,the same argument holds good with regard to the management of boats1 and the author is confident that he merits the thanks of mothers1 whether he receives them or not1 for giving their boys a few hints as to practical rigging and sailing4 ,in general1 there are three ways of learning how to sail boats4 ,first1 from the light of nature1 which is a poor way2 second1 from books1 which is better2 and third1 from another fellow who knows how1 which is best of all4 ,i will try to make this article as much like the other fellow and as little bookish as possible4 ,of course1 what ,i shall say in these few paragraphs will be of small use to those who live within reach of the sea or some big lake and have always been used to boats2 but there are thousands and thousands of boys and men who never saw the sea1 nor even set eyes on a sail1 and who have not the least idea how to make the wind take them where they want to go4 ,i once knew some young men from the interior who went down to the sea-side and hired a boat1 with the idea that they had nothing to do but hoist the sail and be blown wherever they liked4 ,the result was that they performed a remarkable set of manoeuvres within sight of the boat-house1 and at last went helplessly out to sea and had to be sent after and brought back1 when they were well laughed at for their performances1 and had reason to consider themselves lucky for having gotten off so cheaply4 ,the general principles of sailing are as simple as the national game of one ole cat4 ,that is to say1 if the wind always blew moderately and steadily1 it would be as easy and as safe to sail a boat as it is to drive a steady old family horse of good and regular habits4 ,the fact1 however1 is that winds and currents are variable in their moods1 and as capable of unexpected freaks as the most fiery of unbroken colts2 but when properly watched and humored they are tractable and fascinating playmates and servants4 ,now1 let us come right down to first principles4 ,take a bit of pine board1 sharpen it at one end1 set up a mast about a quarter of the length of the whole piece from the bow1 fit on a square piece of stiff paper or card for a sail1 and you are ready for action4 ,put this in the water1 with the sail set squarely across 7,a1 ,fig4 #ada71 and she will run off before the wind--which is supposed to be blowing as indicated by the arrow--at a good rate of speed4 ,if she does not steer herself1 put a small weight near the stern1 or square end2 or1 if you like1 arrange a thin bit of wood for a rudder4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ada4 ,lesson in sailing for beginners4 ,probably the first primeval man who was born with nautical instincts discovered this fact1 and1 using a bush for a sail1 greatly astonished his fellow primevals by winning some prehistoric regatta4 ,but that was all he could do4 ,he was as helpless as a balloonist is in midair4 ,he could go1 but he could not get back1 and we may be sure that ages passed away before the possibility of sailing to windward was discovered4 ,now1 put up or step another mast and sail like the first1 about as far from the stern as the first is from the bow4 ,turn the two sails at an angle of forty-five degrees across the boat 7,b or ,c1 ,fig4 #ada7 and set her adrift4 ,she will make considerable progress across the course of the wind1 although she will at the same time drift with it4 ,if she wholly refuses to go in the right direction1 place a light weight on her bow1 so that she will be a little down by the head1 or move the aftermost mast and sail a little nearer to the stern4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adb4--,tacking4 ,the little rude affair thus used for experiment will not actually make any progress to windward1 because she is so light that she moves sidewise almost as easily as she does forward4 ,with a larger1 deeper boat1 and with sails which can be set at any angle1 the effect will be different4 ,so long as the wind presses against the after side of the sail1 the boat will move through the water in the direction of the least resistance1 which is forward4 ,a square sail having the mast in the middle was easiest to begin with for purposes of explanation2 but now we will change to a fore-and-aft rig--that is1 one with the mast at the forward edge or luff of the sail1 as in ,fig4 #adb4 ,suppose the sail to be set at the angle shown1 and the wind blowing as the arrow points4 ,the boat cannot readily move sidewise1 because of the broadside resistance2 she does not move backward1 because the wind is pressing on the aftermost side of the sail4 ,so she very naturally moves forward4 ,when she nears buoy ,no4 #a1 the helmsman moves the tiller1 or handle of the rudder1 toward the sail4 ,this causes the boat to turn her head toward buoy ,no4 #b1 the sail swings across to the other side of the boat and fills on that side1 which now in turn becomes the aftermost1 and she moves toward buoy ,no4 #b nearly at right angles to her former course4 ,thus1 through a series of zigzags1 the wind is made to work against itself4 ,this operation is called tacking1 or working to windward1 and the act of turning1 as at the buoys ,no4 #a and ,no4 #b1 is called going about4 ,it will be seen1 then1 that the science of sailing lies in being able to manage a boat with her head pointing at any possible angle to or from the wind4 ,nothing but experience can teach one all the niceties of the art1 but a little aptitude and address will do to start with1 keeping near shore and carrying little sail4 ,simplest ,rig ,possible ,i will suppose that the reader has the use of a broad1 flat-bottomed boat without any rudder4 7,see ,fig4 #adc47 ,she cannot be made to work like a racing yacht under canvas1 but lots of fun can be had out of her4 ,do not go to any considerable expense at the outset4 ,procure an old sheet1 or an old hay cover1 six or eight feet square1 and experiment with that before spending your money on new material4 ,if it is a sheet1 and somewhat weakly in its texture1 turn all the edges in and sew them1 so that it shall not give way at the hems4 ,at each corner sew on a few inches of strong twine1 forming loops at the angles4 ,sew on1 also1 eyelets or small loops along the edge which is intended for the luff of the sail1 so that it can be laced to the mast4 ,you are now ready for your spars1 namely1 a mast and a sprit1 the former a couple of feet longer than the luff of the sail1 and the latter to be cut off when you find how long you want it4 ,let these spars be of pine1 or spruce1 or bamboo--as light as possible1 especially the sprit4 ,an inch and a half diameter will do for the mast1 and an inch and a quarter for the sprit1 tapering to an inch at the top4 ,to step the mast1 bore a hole through one of the thwarts 7seats7 near the bow and make a socket or step on the bottom of the boat1 just under the aforesaid hole--or if anything a trifle farther forward--to receive the foot of the mast4 ,this will hold the mast upright1 or with a slight rake aft4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adc4--;,a simple rig4 ,lace the luff of the sail to the mast so that its lower edge will swing clear by a foot or so of the boat's sides4 ,make fast to the loop at ,d a stout line1 ten or twelve feet long4 ,this is called the sheet1 and gives control of the sail4 ,the upper end of the sprit1 ,c1 ,e1 is trimmed so that the loop at ,c will fit over it but not slip down4 ,the lower end is simply notched to receive a short line called a snotter1 as shown in the detailed drawing at the right of the cut 7,fig4 #adc74 ,it will be readily understood that1 when the sprit is pushed upward in the direction of ,c1 the sail will stand spread out4 ,the line is placed in the notch at ,e and pulled up until the sail sets properly1 when it is made fast to a cleat or to a cross-piece at ,f4 ,this device is in common use and has its advantages1 but a simple loop for the foot of the sprit to rest in is more easily made and will do nearly as well4 ,h is an oar for steering4 ,having thus described the simplest rig possible1 we may turn our attention to more elegant and elaborate but not always preferable outfits4 ,leg-of-,mutton ,rig ,one of the prettiest and most convenient rigs for a small boat is known as the leg-of-mutton sharpie rig 7,fig4 #add74 ,the sail is triangular1 and the sprit1 instead of reaching to its upper corner1 stands nearly at right angles to the mast4 ,it is held in position at the mast by the devices already described4 ,this rig has the advantage of keeping the whole sail flatter than any other1 for the end of the sprit cannot kick up1 as the phrase goes1 and so the sail holds all the wind it receives4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #add4 ,fig4 #ade shows a device1 published for the first time in the ,st4 ,nicholas ,magazine for ,september1 #ahhj1 which enables the sailor to step and unstep his mast1 and hoist or lower his sail without leaving his seat--a matter of great importance when the boat is light and tottlish1 as in the case of that most beautiful of small craft1 the modern canoe1 where the navigator sits habitually amidships4 ,the lower mast 7,a1 ,b1 ,fig4 #ade7 stands about two and a half feet above the deck4 ,it is fitted at the head with a metal ferrule and pin1 and just above the deck with two half-cleats or other similar devices 7,a74 ,the topmast 7,c1 ,d7 is fitted at ,f with a stout ring1 and has double halyards 7,e7 rove through or around its foot4 ,the lower mast being in position 7see lower part of ,fig4 #ade71 the canoeist desiring to make sail brings the boat's head to the wind1 takes the topmast with the sail loosely furled in one hand and the halyards in the other4 ,it is easy for him by raising this mast1 without leaving his seat1 to pass the halyards one on each side of the lower mast and let them fall into place close to the deck under the half-cleats at ,a4 ,then1 holding the halyards taut enough to keep them in position1 he will hook the topmast ring over the pin in the lower mast-heat and haul away 7see top part of ,fig4 #ade74 ,the mast will rise into place1 where it is made fast4 ,a collar of leather1 or a knob of some kind1 placed on the topmast just below the ring1 will act as a fulcrum when the halyards are hauled taut and keep the mast from working to and fro4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ade4--;,a new device4 ,the advantages of the rig are obvious4 ,the mast can be raised without standing up1 and in case of necessity the halyards can be let go and the mast and sail unshipped and stowed below with the greatest ease and expedition1 leaving only the short lower mast standing4 ,a leg-of-mutton sail with a common boom along the foot is shown in the cut as the most easily illustrated application of the device1 but there is no reason why it may not be applied to a sail of different shape1 with a sprit instead of a boom1 and a square instead of a pointed head4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adf4--,the latteen rig4 ,the ,latteen ,rig is recommended only for boats which are stiff--not tottlish1 that is4 ,the fact that a considerable portion of the sail projects forward of the mast renders it awkward in case of a sudden shift of wind4 ,its most convenient form is shown in ,fig4 #adf4 ,the arrangement for shipping and unshipping the yard is precisely like that shown in ,fig4 #ade--;a short lower mast with a pin at the top and a ring fitted to the yard4 ,it has a boom at the foot which is joined to the yard at ,c by means of a hook or a simple lashing1 having sufficient play to allow the two spars to shut up together like a pair of dividers4 ,the boom 7,c1 ,e7 has1 where it meets the short lower mast1 a half-cleat1 or jaw1 shown in detail at the bottom of the cut 7,fig4 #adf71 the circle representing a cross-section of the mast4 ,this should be lashed to the boom1 as screws or bolts would weaken it4 ,to take in sail1 the boatman brings the boat to the wind1 seizes the boom and draws it toward him4 ,this disengages it from the mast4 ,he then shoves it forward1 when the yard 7,c1 ,d7 falls of its own weight into his hands and can be at once lifted clear of the lower mast4 ,to keep the sail flat1 it is possible to arrange a collar on the lower mast so that the boom1 when once in position1 cannot slip upward and suffer the sail to bag4 ,the ,cat-,rig so popular on the ,north ,atlantic coast1 is indicated in ,fig4 #adh4 ,the spar at the head of the sail is called a gaff1 and1 like the boom1 it fits the mast with semicircular jaws4 ,the sail is hoisted and lowered by means of halyards rove through a block near the mast-head4 ,the mast is set in the bows--,chock up in the eyes of her1 as a sailor would say4 ,a single leg-of-mutton sail will not work in this position1 because the greater part of its area is too far forward of amidships4 ,no rig is handier or safer than this in working to windward2 but off the wind--running before1 or nearly before it1 that is--the weight of mast and sail1 and the pressure of the wind at one side and far forward1 make the boat very difficult and dangerous to steer4 ,prudent boatmen often avoid doing so by keeping the wind on the quarter and1 as it were1 tacking to leeward4 ,this suggests the question of jibing1 an operation always to be avoided if possible4 ,suppose the wind to be astern1 and the boat running nearly before it1 it becomes necessary to change your course toward the side on which the sail is drawing4 ,the safest way is to turn at first in the opposite direction1 put the helm down 7toward the sail71 bring the boat up into the wind1 turn her entirely around1 and stand off on the new tack4 ,this1 however1 is not always possible4 ,hauling in the sheet until the sail fills on the other side is jibing2 but when this happens it goes over with a rush that sometimes carries mast and sheet or upsets the boat2 hence the operation should be first undertaken in a light wind4 ,it is necessary to know how to do it1 for sometimes a sail insists upon jibing very unexpectedly1 and it is best to be prepared for such emergencies4 ,how to ,make a ,sail ,for the sails of small boats there is no better material than unbleached twilled cotton sheeting4 ,it is to be had two and a half or even three yards wide4 ,in cutting out your sail1 let the selvage be at the leech1 or after-most edge4 ,this1 of course1 makes it necessary to cut the luff and foot bias1 and they are very likely to stretch in the making1 so that the sail will assume a different shape from what was intended4 ,to avoid this1 baste the hem carefully before sewing1 and hold in a little to prevent fulling4 ,it is a good plan to tack the material on the floor before cutting1 and mark the outline of the sail with pencil4 ,stout tape stitched along the bias edges will make a sure thing of it1 and the material can be cut1 making due allowance for the hem4 ,better take feminine advice on this process4 ,the hems should be half an inch deep all around1 selvage and all1 and it will do no harm to reinforce them with cord if you wish to make a thoroughly good piece of work4 ,for running-rigging1 nothing is better than laid or braided cotton cord1 such as is used for awnings and sash-cords4 ,if this is not easily procured1 any stout twine will answer4 ,it can be doubled and twisted as often as necessary4 ,the smallest manila rope is rather stiff and unmanageable for such light sails as ours4 ,in fitting out a boat of any kind1 iron1 unless galvanized1 is to be avoided as much as possible1 on account of its liability to rust4 ,use brass or copper instead4 ,hints to ,beginners ,nothing has been said about reefing thus far1 because small boats under the management of beginners should not be afloat in a reefing breeze4 ,reefing is the operation of reducing the spread of sail when the wind becomes too fresh4 ,if you will look at ,fig4 #adf you will see rows of short marks on the sail above the boom4 ,these are reef-points--bits of line about a foot long passing through holes in the sail and knotted so that they will not slip4 ,in reefing1 the sail is lowered and that portion of it between the boom and the reef-points is gathered together1 and the points are tied around both it and the boom4 ,when the lower row of points is used it is a single reef4 ,both rows together are a double reef4 ,make your first practical experiment with a small sail and with the wind blowing toward the shore4 ,row out a little way1 and then sail in any direction in which you can make the boat go1 straight back to shore if you can1 with the sail out nearly at right angles with the boat4 ,then try running along shore with the sheet hauled in a little and the sail on the side nearest the shore4 ,you will soon learn what your craft can do1 and will probably find that she will make very little1 if any1 headway to windward4 ,this is partly because she slides sidewise over the water4 ,to prevent it you may use a lee-board--namely1 a broad board hung over the side of the boat 7,g1 ,fig4 #adc74 ,this must be held by stout lines1 as the strain upon it is very heavy4 ,it should be placed a little forward of the middle of the boat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adg4--,making port4 ,it must be on the side away from the wind--the lee side--and must be shifted when you go about4 ,keels and centreboards are permanent contrivances for the same purpose1 but a lee-board answers very well as a makeshift1 and is even used habitually by some canoeists and other boatmen4 ,in small boats it is sometimes desirable to sit amidships1 because sitting in the stern raises the bow too high out of water2 steering may be done with an oar over the lee side1 or with yoke-lines attached to a cross-piece on the rudder-head1 or even to the tiller4 ,in this last case the lines must be rove through rings or pulleys at the sides of the boat opposite the end of the tiller4 ,when the handle of the oar 7,h1 ,fig4 #adc7--or the tiller 7,f1 ,fig4 #adf7 if a rudder is used--is pushed to the right1 the boat will turn to the left1 and vice versa4 ,the science of steering consists in knowing when to push and how much to push--very simple1 you see1 in the statement1 but not always so easy in practice4 ,the sail should be so adjusted in relation to the rest of the boat that1 when the sheet is hauled close in and made fast1 the boat1 if left to herself1 will point her head to the wind like a weather-cock and drift slowly astern4 ,if it is found that the sail is so far forward that she will not do this1 the fault may be remedied by stepping the mast further aft or by rigging a small sail near the stern4 ,this is called a dandy or steering sail1 and is especially convenient in a boat whose size or arrangement necessitates sitting amidships4 ,it may be rigged like the mainsail1 and when its sheet is once made fast will ordinarily take care of itself in tacking4 ,remember that1 if the wind freshens or a squall strikes you1 the position of safety is with the boat's head to the wind4 ,when in doubt what to do1 push the helm down 7toward the sail7 and haul in the slack of the sheet as the boat comes up into the wind4 ,if she is moving astern1 or will not mind her helm--and of course she will not if she is not moving--pull her head around to the wind with an oar and experiment cautiously until you find which way you can make her go4 ,in making a landing1 always calculate to have the boat's head as near the wind as possible when she ceases to move1 this whether you lower your sail or not4 ,thus1 if the wind is off shore1 as shown at ,a1 ,fig4 #adg1 land at ,f or ,g1 with the bow toward the shore4 ,if the wind is from the direction of ,b1 land at ,e1 with the bow toward ,b or at ,f2 if at the latter1 the boom will swing away from the wharf and permit you to lie alongside4 ,if the wind is from ,d1 reverse these positions4 ,if the wind comes from the direction of ,c1 land either at ,f or ,g1 with the bow pointing off shore4 ,if you have no one to tell you what to do1 you will have to feel your way slowly and learn by experience2 but if you have nautical instincts you will soon make your boat do what you wish her to do as far as she is able4 ,but first learn to swim before you try to sail a boat4 ,volumes have been written on the subject treated in these few pages1 and it is not yet exhausted4 ,the hints here given are safe ones to follow1 and will1 it is hoped1 be of service to many a young sailor in many a corner of the world4 ,,chapter ,x ,,more ,,rigs ,,of ,,all ,,kinds ,,for ,,small ,,boats ,how to ,distinguish between a ,ship1 ,bark1 ,brig1 and ,schooner--,merits and ,defects of ,catboats--,advantages of the ,sloop--,rigs for ,canoes--,buckeyes and ,sharpies ,,the two principal rigs for vessels are the fore-and-aft and the square rig4 ,square rigged consists in having the principal sails extended by yards suspended at the middle 7,fig4 #aei74 ,fore-and-aft rigged is having the principal sails extended by booms and gaffs suspended by their ends 7,figs4 #adh1 #adi1 #aej1 #aef1 and #afa74 ,barks1 brigs1 and ships are all more or less square rigged1 but schooners1 sloops1 and catboats are all fore-and-aft rigged4 ,in these notes the larger forms of boats are mentioned only because of the well-known interest boys take in all nautical matters1 but no detailed description of the larger craft will be given4 ,all that is aimed at here is to give the salient points1 so that the youngsters will know the name of the rig when they see it4 ,the ,cat ,there is a little snub-nosed ,american who1 in spite of her short body and broad waist1 is deservedly popular among all our amateur sailors4 ,the appreciation of her charms is felt and acknowledged by all her companions without envy1 not because of her saucy looks1 but on account of her accommodating manners4 ,possessing a rare ability for quick movement1 and a wonderful power to bore her way almost into the very eye of the wind1 or with double-reefed sail to dash through the storm or gently slide up alongside of a wharf or dock as easily as a rowboat1 the ,american catboat1 with her single mast chock up in the eyes of her1 has made a permanent place for herself among our pleasure craft1 and is omnipresent in our crowded bays and harbors4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adh4--,the snub-nosed ,american cat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adi4--;,jib and mainsail4 ,knowing that there is little danger of the catboat losing its well-earned popularity1 and being somewhat familiar with many of her peculiarities1 ,i am free to say that this rig1 notwithstanding its numerous good points1 has many serious defects as a school-ship1 and the beginner had better select some other rig with which to begin his practice sailing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aej4--,schooner rig for open boat4 ,boom on mainsail1 none on foresail4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aea4--,the balance lug4 ,first1 the great sail is very heavy and difficult to hoist and reef4 ,second1 in going before the wind there is constant danger of jibing1 with serious results4 ,third1 the catboat has a very bad habit of rolling when sailing before the wind1 and each time the boat rolls from side to side she is liable to dip the end of her heavy boom in the water and trip herself up4 ,when a boat trips up she does not necessarily go down1 but she is likely to upset1 placing the young sailors in an unenviable1 if not a dangerous1 position4 ,fourth1 when the craft begins to swagger before the wind she is liable to goose-neck2 that is1 throw her boom up against the mast1 which is another accident fraught with the possibilities of serious mischief4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeb4--,standing lug4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aec4--,leg-of-mutton sail4 ,jib and main sail rig4 ,the catboat has no bowsprit1 no jib1 and no topsail 7,fig4 #adh71 but that most graceful of all single-stickers1 ,the ,sloop possesses several jibs1 a bowsprit1 and topsail4 ,besides these1 when she is in racing trim1 a number of additional sails are used4 ,all our great racers are sloops1 and this rig is the most convenient for small yachts and cutters4 ,racing ,sloops ,a racing sloop 7,fig4 #afa7 carries a mainsail1 ,a1 a fore staysail1 ,b1 a jib1 ,c1 a gaff topsail1 ,d1 a club topsail1 ,e1 a baby jib topsail1 ,f1 a ,no4 #b jib topsail1 ,g1 a ,no4 #a jib topsail1 ,h1 a balloon jib topsail1 ,j 7,fig4 #aeg71 and a spinnaker1 ,k 7,fig4 #aeg74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afj4 ,fig4 #afa4 ,figs4 #aed-afa4--,rigs that we meet at sea4 ,jib and ,mainsail ,a small sloop's sails are a mainsail1 jib1 and topsail4 ,a sloop rig without topsail is called a jib and mainsail 7,fig4 #adi74 ,while every small-boat sailor should know a catboat and a sloop when he sees them1 and even be able to give the proper name to their sails1 neither of these rigs is very well suited for canoes1 sharpies1 or other boats of the mosquito fleet2 but the ,schooner ,rig which is the form of boat generally used for the larger yachts1 is also very much used for open boats4 ,as you can see1 by referring to ,fig4 #aej1 the schooner rig consists of a bowsprit1 fore and main mast1 with their appropriate sails4 ,lately freight schooners have appeared with four or more masts4 ,for small boats two adjustable masts and an adjustable bowsprit1 as described in the ,rough and ,ready1 ,chapter ,,xiii1 are best4 ,the sails may be sprit sails1 ,figs4 #afd-afi2 balance lug1 ,fig4 #aea2 standing lug1 ,fig4 #aeb2 leg-of-mutton1 ,fig4 #aec1 or the sliding gunter1 ,fig4 #afc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afb4--,the buckeye4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afc4--,the sliding gunter4 ,in the chapter on how to build the ,rough and ,ready1 the sprit sail is depicted and fully described4 ,the ,balance ,lug comes as near the square sail of a ship as any canvas used on small boats1 but you can see1 by referring to the diagram1 ,fig4 #aea1 that the leach and the luff are not parallel and that the gaff hangs at an angle4 ,to boom out the canvas and make it sit flat there are three sticks extended across the sail from the front to the back1 luff to leach1 called battens4 ,this has caused some people to call this a batten lug4 ,like the lateen sail1 part of the balance lug hangs before the mast and serves the purpose of a jib4 ,this rig is said to be easily managed and to possess good sailing qualities4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afd4--,sharpie with sprit and club leg-of-mutton sails4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afe4 ,fig4 #aff4 ,showing detail of sprit club sail4 ,the ,standing ,lug is another sail approaching the square in pattern 7,fig4 #aeb71 and1 as any novice can see1 is a good canvas with which to scud before the wind4 ,it is very convenient for open boats built to be propelled by paddles4 ,while the standing lug cannot point up to the eye of the wind like a schooner or cat1 it is very fast on the wind or when running with the wind astern4 ,probably the safest form of sail used is the old reliable ,leg-of-,mutton ,sail ,this is used by the fishermen on their stanch little dories away up on the coast of ,maine1 and by the tide-water people in their buckeyes on ,chesapeake ,bay4 ,the latter boat is very little known outside of the locality where it makes its home1 but1 like the ,new ,haven sharpies1 it is very popular in its own waters4 ,the ,buckeye or bugeye1 as it is sometimes vulgarly called1 has a great reputation for speed and sea-going qualities4 ,when it cannot climb a wave it goes through it4 ,this makes a wet boat in heavy weather1 but when you travel at a high rate of speed you can endure a wet jacket with no complaint1 especially when you feel that1 in spite of the fast-sailing qualities of this boat1 it is considered a particularly safe craft4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afg4--,plain sprit leg-of-mutton4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afh4 ,fig4 #afi4 ,another form of the sprit sail4 ,the construction of a buckeye 7,fig4 #afb7 has been evolved from the old dugout canoe of the ,indians and the first white settlers4 ,america was originally covered with vast forests of immense trees4 ,remnants of these forests still exist in a few localities4 ,it was once possible to make a canoe of almost any dimensions desired1 but now in the thickly settled regions big trees are scarce4 ,so the ,chesapeake ,bay boat-builders1 while still adhering to the old dugout1 have overcome the disadvantage of small logs by using more than one and bolting the pieces together4 ,masts and sails have been added1 and since the increased proportions made it impracticable to drag such a craft on the beach when in port1 anchors and cables are supplied4 ,two holes bored1 one on each side of the stem1 for the cables to run through1 have given the boat the appearance of having eyes1 and as the eyes are large and round1 the negroes called them buckeyes1 and this is now the name by which all such craft are known4 ,at first only two masts with leg-of-mutton sails were used1 but now they have a jib and two sails4 ,with the greatest width or beam about one-third the distance from bow to stern1 sharp at both ends1 its long1 narrow1 and heavy hull is easily driven through the water and makes both a fast and stiff boat4 ,the buckeye travels in shallow as well as deep waters1 and hence is a centreboard boat1 but there is nothing unnecessary on the real buckeye--no overhanging bow or stern1 for that means additional labor2 no stays to the masts1 for the same reason4 ,the lack of stays to stiffen the masts leaves them with springiness1 which in case of a sudden squall helps to spill the wind and prevents what might otherwise be a knock-down4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agj4--,lug rig with jigger4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aga4--,lug rig with jigger and jib4 ,the foremast is longer than the mainmast and does not rake aft so much1 but the mainmast has a decided rake1 which the colored sailors say makes the boat faster on the wind4 ,sometimes in the smaller boats the mainmast can be set upright when going before the wind4 ,wealthy gentlemen on the ,chesapeake are now building regularly equipped yachts on the buckeye plan1 and some of them are quite large boats4 ,a correspondent of the ,forest and ,stream1 in speaking of the buckeye1 says3 ,last summer ,i cruised in company with a buckeye1 forty-two feet long1 manned by two gentlemen of ,baltimore city4 ,she drew twenty inches without the board4 ,in sudden and heavy flaws she was rarely luffed4 ,she would lie over and appear to spill the wind out of her tall1 sharp sails and then right again4 ,her crew took pleasure in tackling every sailing craft for a race2 nothing under seventy feet in length ever beat her4 ,she steered under any two of her three sails4 ,on one occasion this craft1 on her way from ,cape ,may to ,cape ,charles1 was driven out to sea before a heavy north-west blow4 ,her crew1 the aforesaid gentlemen1 worn out by fatigue1 hove her to and went to sleep4 ,she broke her tiller lashing during the night1 and when they awoke she was pegging away on a south-east course under her jib4 ,they put her about1 and in twenty hours were inside ,cape ,henry1 pretty well tired out4 ,buckeyes frequently run from ,norfolk to ,new ,york with fruit4 ,for shallow waters1 ,i am satisfied there is no better craft afloat4 ,built deep1 with a loaded keel1 they would rival the ,english cutter in seaworthiness and speed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agb4--;,jib4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agc4--,sprit sail1 schooner rig1 with dandy4 ,when the hardy1 bold fishermen of our ,eastern ,states and the brave fishermen down ,south both use the leg-of-mutton sail1 beginners cannot object to using it while practising2 knowing that even if it is a safe sail1 it cannot be called a baby rig4 ,another safe rig1 differing little from the leg-of-mutton1 is the ,sliding ,gunter ,in this rig the sail is laced to a yard which slides up or down the mast by means of two iron hooks or travellers 7,fig4 #afc74 ,no sail with a narrow-pointed top is very serviceable before the wind1 and the sliding gunter is no exception to the rule4 ,but it is useful on the wind1 and can be reefed easily and quickly1 qualities which make it many friends4 ,in the smooth1 shallow waters along the coast of ,north ,carolina may be seen the long1 flat-bottomed ,sharpies ,without question they are to be ranked among the fastest boats we have4 ,these boats are rigged with a modification of the leg-of-mutton sail4 ,the ends of the sprit in the foresail project at the luff and leach4 ,at the luff it is fastened to the mast by a line like a snotter at the leach4 ,it is fastened to a stick sewed into the sail1 called a club4 ,the sheet is attached to the end of the sprit 7,figs4 #afd-afh74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agd4--,sprit sail jib and dandy4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #age4--,the lateen rig with dandy4 ,the ,sprit ,leg-of-,mutton ,sail has this advantage1 that the clew of the sail is much higher than the tack1 thus avoiding the danger of dipping the clew in the water and tripping the boat4 ,the ,dandy ,jigger1 or ,mizzen ,rig is named after the small sail aft1 near the rudder-head4 ,this jigger1 mizzen1 or dandy may have a boom1 a sprit1 or be rigged as a lug4 7,see ,figs4 #agj1 #aga1 #agc1 #agd1 #age1 #agh1 #ahj1 and #ahd1 which show the principal mizzen rigs in use47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agf4 ,yawl ,rig4 ,fig4 #agg4 ,lug-headed ,jib ,mainsail ,rigged ,punt ,fig4 #ahj4 ,the ,burton when using only two blocks it is the most powerful ,tackle ,fig4 #aha4 ,a ,lugeen4 ,fig4 #ahb4 ,,fan ,,sail under shortened sail4 ,fan ,partly ,folded ,fig4 #agi4 ,two battened ,lug ,fig4 #agh4 ,three masted ,bat ,winged ,canoe ,fig4 #ahd4 ,two masted ,bat ,winged ,canoe4 ,fig4 #ahc4 ,two ,common ,tackles ,a ,gun ,tackle ,purchase ,luff ,tackle ,purchase ,,additional ,,rigs ,,for ,,small ,,boats ,,and ,,canoes ,,and ,,three ,,useful ,,tackles ,figs4 #agf-ahd4--;,hybrid rigs for small boats2 also two useful tackles4 ,in puffy wind and lumpy water the main and mizzen rig will be found to work well4 ,the little sail aft should be trimmed as flat as possible4 ,it will be found of great help in beating to the windward1 and will keep the nose of the boat facing the wind when the mainsail is down4 ,different rigs are popular in different localities4 ,for instance3 ,the ,lateen ,rig is very popular in some parts of the ,old ,world1 yet it has only few friends here4 ,it may be because of my art training that ,i feel so kindly toward this style of sail1 or it may be from association in my mind of some of the happiest days of my life with a little black canoe rigged with lateen sails4 ,at any rate1 in spite of the undeniable fact that the lateen is unpopular1 ,i never see a small boat rigged in this style without a feeling of pleasure4 ,the handy little stumps of masts end in a spike at the top and are adorned by the beautiful sails lashed to slender spars1 which1 by means of metal rings1 are lightly1 but securely1 fastened to the mast by simply hooking the ring over the spike4 ,i freely acknowledge that when the sails are lowered and you want to use your paddle the lateen sails are in your way4 ,it is claimed that they are awkward to reef1 and this may be true4 ,i never tried it4 ,when the wind was too strong for my sails ,i made port or took in either the large or the small sail1 as the occasion seemed to demand4 ,the ,ship ,when you are out sailing and see a vessel with three masts1 all square rigged1 you are looking at a ship proper1 though ship is a word often used loosely for any sort of a boat 7,fig4 #aei74 ,the bark is a vessel with square-rigged foremast and mainmast and a fore-and-aft rigged mizzen-mast 7,fig4 #afj74 ,the brig is a vessel with only two masts1 both of which are square rigged 7,fig4 #aeh74 ,the brigantine has two masts--foremast square rigged and mainmast fore-and-aft rigged 7,fig4 #aee74 ,the barkentine has three masts--mainmast and mizzen-mast fore-and-aft rigged and foremast square rigged4 7,see ,fig4 #aed47 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,knots1 ,,bends1 ,,and ,,hitches ,how to ,tie ,knots ,useful on ,both ,land and ,water ,,the art of tying knots is an almost necessary adjunct to not a few recreations4 ,especially is this true of summer sports1 many of which are nautical or in some manner connected with the water4 ,any boy who has been aboard a yacht or a sail-boat must have realized that the safety of the vessel and all aboard may be imperilled by ignorance or negligence in the tying of a knot or fastening of a rope4 ,with some the knack of tying a good1 strong knot in a heavy rope or light cord seems to be a natural gift2 it is certainly a very convenient accomplishment1 and one that with practice and a little perseverance may be acquired even by those who at first make the most awkward and bungling attempts4 ,a bulky1 cumbersome knot is not only ungainly1 but is generally insecure4 ,as a rule1 the strength of a knot is in direct proportion to its neat and handsome appearance4 ,to my mind it is as necessary that the archer should know how to make the proper loops at the end of his bow-string as it is that a hunter should understand how to load his gun4 ,every fisherman should be able to join two lines neatly and securely1 and should know the best and most expeditious method of attaching an extra hook or fly2 and any boy who rigs up a hammock or swing with a granny or other insecure knot deserves the ugly tumble and sore bones that are more than liable to result from his ignorance4 ,a knot1 nautically speaking1 is a bend that is more permanent than a hitch4 ,a knot properly tied never slips1 nor does it jam so that it cannot be readily untied4 ,a hitch might be termed a temporary bend1 as it is seldom relied upon for permanent service4 ,the hitch is so made that it can be cast off or unfastened more quickly than a knot4 ,it is impossible for the brightest boy to learn to make knots1 bends1 and hitches by simply reading over a description of the methods2 for1 although he may understand them at the time1 five minutes after reading the article the process will have escaped his memory4 ,but if he take a piece of cord or rope and sit down with the diagrams in front of him1 he will find little difficulty in managing the most complicated knots2 and he will not only acquire an accomplishment from which he can derive infinite amusement for himself and a means of entertainment for others1 but the knowledge gained may1 in case of accident by fire or flood1 be the means of saving both life and property4 ,the accompanying diagrams show a number of useful and important bends1 splices1 etc4 ,to simplify matters1 let us commence with ,fig4 #eg1 and go through the diagrams in the order in which they come3 ,the ,english or common single fisherman's knot 7,fig4 #ahe1 ,i7 is neat and strong enough for any ordinary strain4 ,the diagram shows the knots before being tightened and drawn together4 ,when exceptional strength is required it can be obtained by joining the lines in the ordinary single fisherman's knot 7,fig4 #ahe1 ,i7 and pulling each of the half knots as tight as possible1 then drawing them within an eighth of an inch of each other and wrapping between with fine gut that has been previously softened in water1 or with light-colored silk4 ,an additional line or a sinker may be attached by tying a knot in the end of the extra line and inserting it between the parts of the single fisherman's knot before they are drawn together and tightened4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahe4--,some useful knots4 ,the fisherman's double half knot1 ,fig4 #ahe 7,,ii and ,,iii74 ,after the gut has been passed around the main line and through itself1 it is passed around the line once more and through the same loop again and drawn close4 ,fig4 #ahe 7,,iv1 ,v1 and ,,ix74 ,here are three methods of joining the ends of two lines together2 the diagrams explain them much better than words can4 ,take a piece of string1 try each one1 and test their relative strength4 ,fig4 #ahe 7,,vi74 ,it often happens1 while fishing1 that a hook is caught in a snag or by some other means lost4 ,the diagram shows the most expeditious manner of attaching another hook by what is known as the sinker hitch1 described further on 7,fig4 #ahe1 ,d1 ,d1 ,d1 and ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xiv1 ,,xv1 and ,,xvi74 ,fig4 #ahe1 ,,vii is another and more secure method of attaching a hook by knitting the line on with a succession of half-hitches4 ,how to ,make a ,horse-,hair ,watch-,guard ,the same hitches are used in the manufacture of horse-hair watch-guards1 much in vogue with the boys in some sections of the country4 ,as regularly as kite-time1 top-time1 or ball-time1 comes horse-hair watch-guard time4 ,about once a year the rage for making watch-guards used to seize the boys of our school1 and by some means or other almost every boy would have a supply of horse-hair on hand4 ,with the first tap of the bell for recess1 some fifty hands would dive into the mysterious depths of about fifty pockets1 and before the bell had stopped ringing about fifty watch-guards1 in a more or less incomplete state1 would be produced4 ,whenever a teamster's unlucky stars caused him to stop near the school-house1 a chorus of voices greeted him with ,mister1 please let us have some hair from your horses' tails4 ,the request was at first seldom refused1 possibly because its nature was not at the time properly understood2 but lucky was the boy considered who succeeded in pulling a supply of hair from the horses' tails without being interrupted by the heels of the animals or by the teamster1 who1 when he saw the swarm of boys tugging at his horses' tails1 generally repented his first good-natured assent1 and with a gruff1 ,get out1 you young rascals6 sent the lads scampering to the school-yard fence4 ,select a lot of long hair of the color desired2 make it into a switch about an eighth of an inch thick by tying one end in a simple knot4 ,pick out a good1 long hair and tie it around the switch close to the knotted end2 then take the free end of the single hair in your right hand and pass it under the switch on one side1 thus forming a loop through which the end of the hair must pass after it is brought up and over from the other side of the switch4 ,draw the knot tight by pulling the free end of the hair as shown by ,fig4 #ahe1 ,,vii4 ,every time this operation is repeated a wrap and a knot is produced4 ,the knots follow each other in a spiral around the switch1 giving it a very pretty1 ornamented appearance4 ,when one hair is used up select another and commence knitting with it as you did with the first1 being careful to cover and conceal the short end of the first hair1 and to make the knots on the second commence where the former stop4 ,a guard made of white horse-hair looks as if it might be composed of spun glass1 and produces a very odd and pretty effect4 ,a black one is very genteel in appearance4 ,these ornaments are much prized by cowboys1 and ,i have seen bridles for horses made of braided horsehair4 ,miscellaneous ,fig4 #ahe1 ,,viii shows a simple and expeditous manner of attaching a trolling-hook to a fish-line4 ,fig4 #ahe1 ,f is a hitch used on shipboard1 or wherever lines and cables are used4 ,it is called the ,blackwall hitch4 ,fig4 #ahe1 ,e is a fire-escape made of a double bow-line knot1 useful as a sling for hoisting persons up or letting them down from any high place2 the window of a burning building1 for instance4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xviii1 ,,xix1 and ,,xx show how this knot is made4 ,it is described on page #gg4 ,fig4 #ahe1 ,a is a bale hitch1 made of a loop of rope4 ,to make it1 take a piece of rope that has its two ends joined2 lay the rope down and place the bale on it2 bring the loop opposite you up1 on that side of the bale1 and the loop in front up1 on the side of the bale next to you2 thrust the latter loop under and through the first and attach the hoisting rope4 ,the heavier the object to be lifted1 the tighter the hitch becomes4 ,an excellent substitute for a shawl-strap can be made of a cord by using the bale hitch1 the loop at the top being a first-rate handle4 ,fig4 #ahe1 ,b is called a cask sling1 and ,c 7,fig4 #ahe7 is called a butt sling4 ,the manner of making these last two and their uses may be seen by referring to the illustration4 ,it will be noticed that a line is attached to the bale hitch in a peculiar manner 7a1 ,fig4 #ahe74 ,this is called the anchor bend4 ,if while aboard a sail-boat you have occasion to throw a bucket over for water1 you will find the anchor bend a very convenient and safe way to attach a line to the bucket handle1 but unless you are an expert you will need an anchor hitched to your body or you will follow the bucket4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,i and ,,ii are loops showing the elements of the simplest knots4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,iii is a simple knot commenced4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,iv shows the simple knot tightened4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,v and ,,vi show how the ,flemish knot looks when commenced and finished4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,vii and ,,viii show a rope knot commenced and finished4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,ix is a double knot commenced4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,x is the same completed4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xi shows a back view of the double knot4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xii is the first loop of a bow-line knot4 ,one end of the line is supposed to be made fast to some object4 ,after the turn1 or loop 7,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xii71 is made1 hold it in position with your left hand and pass the end of the line up through the loop1 or turn1 you have just made1 behind and over the line above1 then down through the loop again1 as shown in the diagram 7,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xiii72 pull it tight and the knot is complete4 ,the sinker hitch is a very handy one to know1 and the variety of uses it may be put to will be at once suggested by the diagrams4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahf4 ,lines that have both ends made fast may have weights attached to them by means of the sinker hitch 7,fig4 #ahe1 ,d1 ,d1 ,d74 ,to accomplish this1 first gather up some slack and make it in the form of the loop 7,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xiv72 bend the loop back on itself 7,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xv7 and slip the weight through the double loop thus formed 7,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xvi72 draw tight by pulling the two top lines1 and the sinker hitch is finished 7,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xvii74 ,the fire-escape sling previously mentioned1 and illustrated by ,fig4 #ahe1 ,e1 is made with a double line4 ,proceed at first as you would to make a simple bow-line knot 7,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xviii74 ,after you have run the end loop up through the turn 7,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xix71 bend it downward and over the bottom loop and turn1 then up again until it is in the position shown in ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xx2 pull it downward until the knot is tightened1 as in ,fig4 #ahe1 ,e1 and it makes a safe sling in which to lower a person from any height4 ,the longer loop serves for a seat1 and the shorter one1 coming under the arms1 makes a rest for the back4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxi is called a boat knot1 and is made with the aid of a stick4 ,it is an excellent knot for holding weights which may want instant detachment4 ,to detach it1 lift the weight slightly and push out the stick1 and instantly the knot is untied4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxii4 ,commencement of a six-fold knot4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxiii4 ,six-fold knot completed by drawing the two ends with equal force4 ,a knot drawn in this manner is said to be nipped4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxiv4 ,a simple hitch or double used in making loop knots4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxv4 ,loop knot4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxvi shows how the loop knot is commenced4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxvii is the ,dutch double knot1 sometimes called the ,flemish loop4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxviii shows a common running knot4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxix4 ,a running knot with a check knot to hold4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxx4 ,a running knot checked4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahf4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxxi4 ,the right-hand part of the rope shows how to make the double loop for the twist knot4 ,the left-hand part of the same rope shows a finished twist knot4 ,it is made by taking a half turn on both the right-hand and left-hand lines of the double loop and passing the end through the bight 7loop7 so made4 ,whiplashes ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxxii is called the chain knot1 which is often used in braiding leather whiplashes4 ,to make a chain knot1 fasten one end of the thong1 or line2 make a simple loop and pass it over the left hand2 retain hold of the free end with the right hand2 with the left hand seize the line above the right hand and draw a loop through the loop already formed2 finish the knot by drawing it tight with the left hand4 ,repeat the operation until the braid is of the required length1 then secure it by passing the free end through the last loop4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxxiii shows a double chain knot4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxxiv is a double chain knot pulled out4 ,it shows how the free end is thrust through the last loop4 ,fig4 #ahf1 ,,xxxv4 ,knotted loop for end of rope1 used to prevent the end of the rope from slipping1 and for various other purposes4 ,splices1 ,timber-,hitches1 etc4 ,although splices may not be as useful to boys as knots and hitches1 for the benefit of those among my readers who are interested in the subject1 ,i have introduced a few bands and splices on the cables partly surrounding ,fig4 #ahf4 ,fig4 #ahf1 a shows the knot and upper side of a simple band4 ,fig4 #ahf1 b shows under side of the same4 ,fig4 #ahf1 c and d show a tie with cross-ends4 ,to hold the ends of the cords1 a turn is taken under the strands4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahg4 ,fig4 #ahf1 e and f3 ,bend with cross-strands1 one end looped over the other4 ,fig4 #ahf1 g shows the upper side of the necklace tie4 ,fig4 #ahf1 h shows the under side of the same4 ,the advantage of this tie is that the greater the strain on the cords1 the tighter it draws the knot4 ,fig4 #ahf1 i and j are slight modifications of g and h4 ,fig4 #ahf1 p shows the first position of the end of the ropes for making the splice k4 ,untwist the strands and put the ends of two ropes together as close as possible1 and place the strands of the one between the strands of the other alternately1 so as to interlace1 as in k4 ,this splice should only be used when there is not time to make the long splice1 as the short one is not very strong4 ,from l to m is a long splice1 made by underlaying the strands of each of the ropes joined about half the length of the splice1 and putting each strand of the one between two of the other2 q shows the strands arranged for the long splice4 ,fig4 #ahf1 n is a simple mode of making a hitch on a rope4 ,fig4 #ahf1 o is a shroud knot4 ,fig4 #ahf1 r shows a very convenient way to make a handle on a rope1 and is used upon large ropes when it is necessary for several persons to take hold to pull4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,a4 ,combination of half-hitch and timber-hitch4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,b4 ,ordinary half-hitch4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,c4 ,ordinary timber-hitch4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,d4 ,another timber-hitch1 called the clove-hitch4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,e4 ,hammock-hitch1 used for binding bales of goods or cloth4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,f4 ,lark-head knot1 used by sailors and boatmen for mooring their crafts4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,p shows a lark-head fastening to a running knot4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,g is a double-looped lark-head4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,h shows a double-looped lark-head knot fastened to the ring of a boat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahg4--,timber-hitches1 etc4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,i is a treble lark-head4 ,to make it you must first tie a single lark-head1 then divide the two heads and use each singly1 as shown in the diagram4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,j shows a simple boat knot with one turn4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,k4 ,crossed running knot4 ,it is a strong and handy tie1 not as difficult to make as it appears to be4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,l is the bow-line knot1 described by the diagrams ,,xii and ,,xiii 7,fig4 #ahf74 ,the free end of the knot is made fast by binding it to the bight1 or the loop4 ,it makes a secure sling for a man to sit in at his work among the rigging4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,m1 ,n1 and ,o4 ,slip clinches1 or sailors' knots4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,q shows a rope fastened by the chain-hitch4 ,the knot at the left-hand end explains a simple way to prevent a rope from unravelling4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,r4 ,a timber-hitch2 when tightened the line binds around the timber so that it will not slip4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,s4 ,commencement of simple lashing knot4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,t4 ,simple lashing knot finished4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,u4 ,infallible loop2 not properly a timber-hitch1 but useful in a variety of ways1 and well adapted for use in archery4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,v4 ,same as ,r1 reversed4 ,it looks like it might give way under a heavy strain1 but it will not4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,w4 ,running knot with two ends4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,x4 ,running knot with a check knot that can only be opened with a marline-spike4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,y4 ,a two-ended running knot with a check to the running loops4 ,this knot can be untied by drawing both ends of the cord4 ,fig4 #ahg1 ,z4 ,running knot with two ends1 fixed by a double ,flemish knot4 ,when you wish to encircle a timber with this tie1 pass the ends on which the check knot is to be through the cords before they are drawn tight4 ,this will require considerable practice4 ,fig4 #ahg1 a shows an ordinary twist knot4 ,fig4 #ahg1 a#a shows the form of loop for builder's knot4 ,fig4 #ahg1 b4 ,double twist knot4 ,fig4 #ahg1 c4 ,builder's knot finished4 ,fig4 #ahg1 d represents a double builder's knot4 ,fig4 #ahg1 e4 ,weaver's knot1 same as described under the head of ,becket hitch 7,fig4 #ahe1 ,v74 ,fig4 #ahg1 f4 ,weaver's knot drawn tight4 ,fig4 #ahg1 g shows how to commence a reef knot4 ,this is useful for small ropes2 with ropes unequal in size the knot is likely to draw out of shape1 as m4 ,fig4 #ahg1 h shows a reef knot completed4 ,of all knots1 avoid the granny2 it is next to useless under a strain1 and marks the tier as a landlubber4 ,fig4 #ahg1 i shows a granny knot2 n shows a granny under strain4 ,fig4 #ahg1 j shows the commencement of a common rough knot4 ,fig4 #ahg1 k4 ,the front view of finished knot4 ,fig4 #ahg1 l4 ,the back view of finished knot4 ,although this knot will not untie nor slip1 the rope is likely to part at one side if the strain is great4 ,awkward as it looks1 this tie is very useful at times on account of the rapidity with which it can be made4 ,fig4 #ahg1 o and p4 ,knot commenced and finished1 used for the same purposes as the ,flemish knot4 ,fig4 #ahg1 q and q#a4 ,an ordinary knot with ends used separately4 ,fig4 #ahg1 s4 ,sheep-shank1 or dog-shank as it is sometimes called1 is very useful in shortening a line4 ,suppose1 for instance1 a swing is much longer than necessary1 and you wish to shorten it without climbing aloft to do so1 it can be done with a sheep-shank4 ,fig4 #ahg1 r shows the first position of the two loops4 ,take two half hitches1 and you have a bend of the form shown by s4 ,pull tightly from above and below the shank1 and you will find that the rope is shortened securely enough for ordinary strain4 ,fig4 #ahg1 t4 ,shortening by loop and turns made where the end of the rope is free4 ,fig4 #ahg1 u4 ,a shortened knot that can be used when either end is free4 ,fig4 #ahg1 v1 w1 and x4 ,shortening knots4 ,fig4 #ahg1 y and z4 ,a true lover's knot1 and the last one that you need to practise on1 for one of these knots is as much as most persons can attend to1 and ought to last a lifetime4 ,illustration ,,chapter ,,xii ,,how ,,to ,,build ,a ,,cheap ,,boat ,the ,yankee ,pine ,,from the saw-mills away up among the tributaries of the ,ohio ,river come floating down to the towns along the shore great rafts of pine lumber4 ,these rafts are always objects of interest to the boys1 for the youngsters know that when moored to the shore the solidly packed planks make a splendid platform to swim from4 ,fine springing-boards can be made of the projecting blades of the gigantic sweeps which are used to guide the mammoth rafts1 and1 somewhere aboard1 there is always to be found a ,yankee pine4 ,just when or why this style of skiff was dubbed with such a peculiar name ,i am unable to state2 but this ,i know1 that when a raft is to be broken up and carted away to the lumber yards there is1 or always used to be1 a good1 light skiff to be had cheap4 ,however1 all boys do not live on the bank of the river1 and if they did there would hardly be ,yankee pines enough to go round2 so we will at once proceed to see how to build one for ourselves4 ,although my readers may find the ,yankee pine a little more difficult to build than the blunt-ended1 flat-bottomed scow1 it really is a comparatively simple piece of work for boys familiar with the use of carpenters' tools4 ,for the side-pieces select two straight-grained pine boards free from knots4 ,these boards should be about #ac or #ad feet long1 a couple of inches over a foot in width1 and as nearly alike as possible in texture4 ,besides these there should be in the neighborhood of a dozen other -inch planks1 an inch or two over a half foot in width4 ,a small piece of #b-;inch plank for the stern-piece is also necessary4 ,upon the bottom edge of the side-board measure off from each end toward the centre #d inches1 mark the points1 and saw off the corners shown by the dotted line in ,fig4 #ahh4 ,next take a piece of board #d feet long and a foot wide1 saw off the corners as you did on the side-board1 making it #d feet on the top and #c feet #d inches on the bottom4 ,this board is to be used only as a centre brace while modelling the boat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahh4--,side-board4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahi4--;,frame4 ,out of the #b-;inch plank make a stern-piece of the same shape as the centre brace2 let it be #a foot wide1 #ad inches long on the bottom1 and #bj inches long on top4 ,set the side-boards on their shorter or bottom edges and place the centre brace in the middle1 as shown by ,fig4 #ahi2 nail the side-boards to it1 using only enough nails to hold temporarily4 ,draw the side-boards together at the bow and against the stern-board at the stern 7,fig4 #ahi74 ,hold the side-pieces in position by the means of ropes4 ,a stem should be ready to fix in the bow 7,fig4 #aij74 ,this had better be a few inches longer than the sides are broad1 as it is a simple matter to saw off the top after it is fitted4 ,make the stem of a triangular piece of timber1 by planing off the front edge until a flat surface about inch broad is obtained2 #b inches from the front1 upon each side1 cut a groove just the thickness of the side-boards 7 inch74 ,trim the stem so that the side-pieces at the bow fit the grooves snugly1 and nail the side-boards to the stem and to the stern-piece 7,fig4 #ahi74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aij4--,stem-piece4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aia4--;,finished skiff4 ,turn the boat upside down1 and it will be discovered that the outlines of the bottom form an arch from stem to stern4 ,if left in this shape the boat will sink too deep amidship4 ,remedy the defect by planing the bottom edge of both side pieces1 reducing the convex form to straight lines in the middle4 ,this will allow the bow and stern to sheer1 but at the same time will make the central part of the bottom flat1 and1 by having less to drag through the water1 make it easier to row4 ,nail the bottom-boards on crosswise1 and as1 on account of the form of the boat1 no two boards will be of the same size1 they must be first nailed on and the projecting ends sawed off afterward4 ,the centre brace may now be taken out and a long bottom-board nailed to the centre of the bottom upon the inside of the boat 7,fig4 #aia74 ,cut a small cross-piece 7,b1 ,fig4 #aia7 so that it will fit across the bow #c inches below the top of the side-boards4 ,nail it in place1 driving the nails from the outside of the side-board through and into the end of the stick ,b4 ,saw out a bow seat1 and1 allowing the broad end to rest on the cross-stick ,b1 fit the seat in and secure it with nails 7,fig4 #aia72 #c inches below the top of the stern-piece nail a cleat across4 ,at the same distance below the side-board put a cross-stick similar to the one in the bow4 ,this and the cleat on the stern-piece form rests for the stern seat4 ,five feet from the stern saw a notch #b inches deep and #a inch long in each side-board 7,a1 ,a#a1 ,fig4 #aia74 ,saw two more notches of the same size #c inches from the first2 these will make the rowlock when the side strips have been fastened on4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aib4--,keel board or skeg4 ,these strips should each be made of #a-;inch plank1 #b inches wide and an inch or two longer than the side-boards4 ,nail the strips on the outside of the boat flush with the top of the side-boards1 making a neat joint at the stern-piece1 as shown in the illustration 7,fig4 #aia74 ,cut two short strips to fit upon the inside at the rowlocks and fasten them firmly on with screws 7,fig4 #aia1 ,a74 ,next cut two cleats for the oarsman's seat to rest upon4 ,nail them to the side-boards amidship a little nearer the bottom than the top1 so that the seat1 when resting upon the cleats1 will be about half the distance from the top edge to the bottom of the side-boards4 ,let the aft end of the cleats be about #f feet #b inches from the stern4 ,make thole-pins of some hard wood to fit in the rowlocks1 like those described and illustrated by ,figs4 #bjc and #bjd4 ,illustration3 ,top view of ,man ,friday4 ,the ,yankee pine now only needs a skeg to complete it4 ,this must be placed exactly in the centre1 and is fastened on by a couple of screws at the thin end and nails from the inside of the boat4 ,it is also fastened to the upright stick at the stern by screws 7,fig4 #aib74 ,if the joints have been carefully made1 your ,yankee pine is now ready for launching4 ,being made of rough lumber it needs no paint or varnish1 but is a sort of rough-and-ready affair1 light to row2 and it ought to float four people with ease4 ,by using planed pine or cedar lumber1 and with hard-wood stem and stern1 a very pretty row-boat can be made upon the same plan as a ,yankee pine1 or by putting in a centreboard and stepping a mast in the bow1 the ,yankee pine can be transformed into a sail-boat4 ,but before experimenting in this line of boat-building1 the beginner had better read carefully the chapter on how to rig and sail small boats4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aic4--,the side-boards4 ,how to ,build a ,better ,finished ,boat ,the old-time raftsmen formerly built their ,yankee pines of the rough1 unplaned boards fresh from the saw-mills on the river banks1 and these raw1 wooden skiffs were stanch1 light1 and tight boats1 but to-day smooth lumber is as cheap as the rough boards1 so select enough planed pine lumber for a #ab-;foot boat1 and you may calculate the exact amount by reference to the accompanying diagrams1 which are all drawn as near as may be to a regular scale4 ,by reference to ,fig4 #aic you will see that ,a1 ,a represent the two ,side-,boards ,these should be of sufficient dimensions to produce two side-pieces each #ac feet long1 #ag inches wide1 and #g_/h inch thick 7,a1 ,fig4 #aid74 ,you will also need a piece for a ,spreader ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aid4--;,a1 the side4 ,b1 the spreader4 ,c1 the stern-piece4 #ed inches long1 #ah inches wide1 and about #a inch thick1 but as this is a temporary affair almost any old piece of proper dimensions will answer 7,b1 ,fig4 #aid71 and another piece of good #a-;inch plank 7,c1 ,fig4 #aid7 #cf inches long by #ae inches wide1 for a stern-piece4 ,besides the above there must be enough #a-;inch lumber to make seats and to cover the bottom4 ,at a point on one end1 #f inches from the edge of the ,a plank1 mark the point c 7,fig4 #aid71 then measure #cg inches back along the edge of the plank and mark the point b 7,fig4 #aid74 ,rule a pencil line 7b1 c7 between these two points and starting at c saw off the triangle b1 c1 d4 ,make the second side-board an exact duplicate of the one just described and prepare the spreader by sawing off the triangle with #i-;inch bases at each end of ,b 7,fig4 #aid74 ,this will leave you a board 7h1 k1 o1 n7 that will be #cf inches long on its lower edge and #ed inches long on its top edge4 ,next saw off the corners of the stern-piece ,c 7,fig4 #aid7 along the lines f1 g1 the g points being each #f inches from the corners2 and a board 7ff1 gg7 #ah inches wide and #cj inches top measurement1 with #bc inches at the bottom4 ,now fit the edge of the stern-piece along the line e1 d 7,fig4 #aid71 or at a slant to please your fancy4 ,in ,fig4 #aie1 upper ,c1 the slant makes the base of the triangle about #d inches1 which is sufficient4 ,be careful that both side-boards are fitted exactly alike1 and to do this nail the port side with nails driven only partly in1 as shown at ,d 7,fig4 #aie72 then nail the starboard side and1 if they are both seen to be even and of the right slant1 drive the nails home2 if not correct1 the nails may be pulled out by using a small block under the hammer 7,d1 ,fig4 #aie71 without bending the nails or injuring the wood4 ,leave the stern-ends of the side-boards protruding1 as in the upper ,c1 until you have the spreader and stem in place4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aie4--;,details of the boat4 ,we are now ready for the spreader 7h1 k1 o1 n7 7,b1 ,fig4 #aid7 amidship1 or1 more accurately speaking1 #f feet #i inches from the bow 7,b1 ,fig4 #aie74 ,nail this as shown by ,d 7,fig4 #aie71 so that the nails may be removed at pleasure4 ,bring the bow ends of the ,a boards together and secure them by a strip nailed temporarily across1 as shown in the diagram ,e 7,fig4 #aie74 ,the ,stem-piece may be made of two pieces1 as is shown at ,g and ,f 7,fig4 #aie7 or if you are more skilful than the ordinary non-professional1 the stem may be made of one piece1 as shown by the lower diagram at ,f 7,fig4 #aie74 ,it is desirable to have oak for the stem1 but any hard wood will answer the purpose1 and even pine may be used when no better is to be had4 ,take a piece of cardboard or an old shingle on which to draw a pattern for the end of the stem and make the outline with a lead-pencil by placing the shingle over the apex c of diagram ,e 7,fig4 #aie72 from the inside trace the line of the sides thus1 ,v4 ,trim your stem down to correspond to these lines and let the stick be somewhat longer than the width of the sides ,a1 ,a4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aif4--,put on a bottom of #a-;inch boards4 ,when this is done to your satisfaction1 fit the stem in place and nail the side boards to the stem4 ,turn the boat over and nail on a bottom of #a-;inch boards as shown by ,fig4 #aif4 ,don't use tongue and grooved or any sort of fancy cabinet or floor joining when wet--such matched lumber warps up in waves--but use boards with smooth1 flat edges2 if these are true and fitted snugly together in workmanlike manner the first wetting will swell them in a very short time1 until not a drop of water will leak through the cracks1 for the reason that there will be none4 ,fit the bottom-boards on regardless of their protruding ends1 as these may be sawed off after the boards are nailed in place4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aig4--;,details of bow1 stern1 seats1 and finished boat4 ,the ,seats consist of a triangular one at the bow 7,j71 the oarsman's seat 7,l71 and the stern seat 7,k1 ,fig4 #aig74 ,the bow seat is made of #a-;inch boards nailed to two cleats shown at ,m 7,fig4 #aig74 ,n shows the bench for the stern seat and ,o explains the arrangement of the oarsman's seat a little forward amidship4 ,as may be seen1 it rests upon the cleats x 7diagram ,o1 ,fig4 #aig71 which are fitted between two upright cleats on each side of the boat2 this makes a seat which will not slip out of place1 and the cleats serve to strengthen the sides of the otherwise ribless boat4 ,make the cleats of #a by #b inch lumber and let the seat be about #ab inches wide4 ,the stern seat may be wider1 #a feet at ,k and #d or #e inches more at the long sides of the two boards each side of ,k 7,fig4 #aig74 ,of course1 it is not necessary to fit a board in against the stern-piece1 for a cleat will answer the purpose1 but a good1 heavy stern-piece is often desirable and the board shown in diagram ,n 7,fig4 #aig7 will serve to add strength to the stern as well as to furnish a firm rest for the stern seat1 but it will also add weight4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aih4 ,fig4 #aii4--;,fitting the skeg4 ,the ,keel-,board is an advisable addition to the boat1 but may also be omitted without serious results 7,h1 ,fig4 #aig74 ,the keel-board should be #d inches wide1 #a inch thick1 and should be cut pointed1 to fit snugly in the bow1 and nailed in place along the centre of the floor1 before the seats are put in the boat4 ,a similar board along the bottom1 joining the two cleats each side of the skeg at y 7,fig4 #aii7 and extending to the bow will prevent the danger of loosening the bottom-planks when bumping over rifts1 shallow places1 or when the boat needs to be hauled on a stony shore2 this bottom-board may also be omitted to save time and lumber and is not shown in the diagram4 ,the ,skeg is a triangular board 7,figs4 #aih and #aii71 roughly speaking1 of the same dimensions as the pieces sawed from the side-board b1 c1 d 7,fig4 #aif74 ,the stern-end will be about #g inches wide and it will taper off to nothing at y 7,fig4 #aih74 ,the skeg is held in place by cleats of #a-;inch lumber1 #b inches wide1 nailed to the bottom on each side of the skeg4 ,to get the proper dimensions experiment with the pieces sawed from the ,a boards and cut your skeg board so that its bottom edge will be level with the bottom at y 7,fig4 #aih72 the diagonal line1 to correspond with the slant of the stern1 can be accurately drawn if the skeg is left untrimmed until it is fastened in place4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjj4 ,fig4 #bja ,fig4 #bjb ,rowlocks4 ,to ,fasten on the ,skeg rule a line from the centre of the stern to the centre of the bow and toe-nail the skeg on along this line4 ,this must be accurately done or you will make a boat which will have an uncomfortable tendency to move in circles4 ,after toe-nailing the skeg to the bottom1 nail the two cleats1 one on each side of the skeg1 and let them fit as closely as may be to the keel4 ,now saw off the stern-ends of the cleats and lay a rule along the stern1 as the stick is placed in ,fig4 #aih1 where the boy has his finger2 rule a pencil line across the protruding end of the keel and saw off the end along the diagonal line1 so that the stern-cleat z 7,fig4 #aih7 may be nailed in place to finish the work4 ,you can buy rowlocks of galvanized iron for about a quarter of a dollar a pair2 the brass ones are not expensive1 but even when the store furnishes the hardware there must be a firm support of some sort to hold the rowlock4 ,if you use the manufactured article1 to be found at any hardware store1 the merchant will supply you with the screws1 plates1 and rowlocks1 but he will not furnish you with the blocks for the holes in which the spindles of the rowlocks fit4 ,fig4 #bjb shows a rude1 but serviceable1 support for the lock made of short oaken posts much in vogue in ,pennsylvania1 but ,fig4 #bja is much better1 and if it is made of oak and bolted to the sides of the boat it will last as long as the boat4 ,fig4 #bja may be put upon either the outside or inside of the boat1 according to the width amidship4 ,a ,guard ,rail or fender1 of #a by #b inch lumber1 alongside of and even with the top of the side-boards1 from bow to stern1 gives finish and strength to the craft2 but in a cheap boat1 or a hastily constructed one1 this may be omitted1 as it is in these diagrams4 ,if you are building your boat out of the convenient reach of the hardware shop1 you must make your own rowlocks4 ,fig4 #bjj shows the crude ones formerly used by the raftsmen for the ,yankee pines1 and ,figs4 #bjc and #bjd show rowlocks made with the oaken or hard-wood thole-pins fitting in holes cut for that purpose in the form of notches 7,u1 ,fig4 #bjd7 in the side of the boat1 or as spaces left between the blocks1 as shown by ,r 7,fig4 #bjc74 ,when the side-boards ,a1 ,a of the boat are notched a cleat of hard wood #e or #f inches wide1 and extending some distance each side of the side-boards1 must be used1 as is shown by diagram ,v 7,fig4 #bjd7 and ,fig4 #bjc4 ,the diagram ,r 7,fig4 #bjc7 explains itself2 there is a centre block nailed to the side-board and two more each side1 leaving spaces for the thole-pins ,t 7,fig4 #bjc7 to fit and guarded by another piece 7,r7 bolted through to the sides4 ,if bolts are out of your reach1 nails and screws may act as substitutes1 and ,fig4 #bjd will then be the best form of rowlock to adopt4 ,to fix the place for rowlocks1 seat yourself in the oarsman's seat1 grasp the oars as in rowing1 and mark the place which best fits the reach of your arms and oars as in rowing4 ,it will probably be about #ac inches aft from the centre of the seat4 ,to ,transform an ,ordinary ,skiff or ,scow ,into a ,sailing-,boat ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjc4 ,thole-pins4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjd4 ,thole-pins4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bje4 ,it is necessary to build the centreboard box and cut a hole through the bottom of the boat4 ,for the average row-boat or skiff1 you can make the centreboard box about #dh inches long and not higher1 of course1 than the gunwales of the boat4 ,make the box of #b-;inch plank1 and before nailing the sides together coat the seams thoroughly with white lead so as to prevent it from leaking4 ,the centreboard should be made of #b-;inch plank1 which when planed down and smoothed will be about #a-g_/h of an inch thick1 and the space in the box should be wide enough to allow it to move freely up and down1 with no danger of its jamming4 ,a hole should be cut in the bottom of the boat to correspond with the opening in the centreboard box1 which1 with a #dh-;inch box1 will probably be an opening of #dj inches long and #a inch wide4 ,the centreboard is hinged to the box by a bolt run through at the point marked ,a on ,fig4 #bje4 ,the centreboard should move freely on the bolt1 but the bolt itself should fit tightly in the sides of the box1 otherwise the water will leak through4 ,there will be no danger of the bolt's turning in its socket if the hole through the centreboard through which the bolt is thrust is made large enough4 ,the centreboard box should be generously painted with white lead on the bottom edges where it fits on the floor of the boat around the centreboard hole4 ,the bottom of the boat floor should also be coated with white lead and over this a strip of muslin spread before the box is securely nailed to the floor of the boat from the bottom or under side of the boat4 ,when this is done the muslin covering the hole can be cut away with a sharp knife4 ,a rope may then be fastened to the loose end of the centreboard with a cross-stick attached to the end of the rope to prevent it from slipping down the hole in the box4 ,with this rope the centreboard may be raised or lowered to suit the pleasure of the sailor4 7,fig4 #bje47 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,a ,,rough-,,and-,,ready ,,boat ,just ,what ,one ,must ,do to ,build ,it--,detailed ,instructions as to ,how to ,make the ,boat and ,how to ,rig ,it ,,good straight-grained pine wood is1 without doubt1 the best all-around wood for general use4 ,it is easily whittled with a pocket-knife2 it works smoothly under a plane2 can be sawed without fatiguing the amateur carpenter2 it is elastic and pliable2 therefore use pine lumber to build your boat4 ,examine the lumber pile carefully and select four boards nearly alike4 ,do not allow the dealer or his men to talk you into taking lumber with blemishes4 ,the side pieces should be of straight-grained wood1 with no large knots and no checks 7cracks7 in them1 and must not be wind shaken4 ,measure the wood and see that it is over twenty-two feet long by one foot four or five inches wide and one inch thick4 ,trim two of the side-pieces until they are exact duplicates 7,fig4 #bjf74 ,the stem-piece 7or bow-piece7 should be made from a triangular piece of oak 7,fig4 #bab71 and it is wise to make it a few inches longer than will be necessary1 so that there may be no danger of finding1 after all your labor1 that the stick is too short2 much better too long1 for it is a simple matter to saw it off4 ,make a second stem-piece 7,fig4 #bac7 of oak about one inch thick and the same length as the first1 and two or three inches wide1 or twice as wide as the thickness of the side-boards4 ,the ,stern-piece ,the stern-piece can be fashioned out of two-inch pine boards1 and may be made as wide or narrow as you choose4 ,a narrow stern makes a trim-looking craft4 ,with your saw cut off the corner of the tail-piece1 so that it will be in the form of a blunted triangle 7,fig4 #bad71 measuring three feet ten and one-half inches across the base1 three feet four inches on each side1 and nine and one-half inches at the apex4 ,the base of the triangle will be the top and the apex will be the bottom of the stern-board of your boat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjf4 ,fig4 #bjg4 ,fig4 #bjh4 ,fig4 #bji4 ,fig4 #baj4 ,diagrams showing the construction of the rough-and-ready4 ,now make a brace on which to model your boat4 ,let it be of two-inch pine wood1 two and one-half feet wide and seven and one-half feet long 7,fig4 #bjg74 ,measure twelve inches on one edge of this board from each end toward the centre and mark the points2 then rule lines from these points diagonally across the width of the board 7,a1 ,b and ,c1 ,d--,fig4 #bjg71 and saw off the corners1 as shown by the dotted line in ,fig4 #bjg4 ,lay the boards selected for the lower side-boards on a level floor and measure off one and one-half foot on the bottom edge1 then in a line with the end of the board mark a point on the floor that would be the top edge of the board if the board were two and one-half feet wide2 rule a line from the point on the floor to the point marked on the board and saw off the corner as marked2 make the other side-piece correspond exactly with the first 7,fig4 #bjf74 ,use ,rope for ,binding ,set the side-pieces upon their bottoms or shorter edges and place the brace between the sides4 ,now bind the stern ends with a rope and bring the bow-pieces together until they touch2 rope them in this position1 and when all is fast push the brace up until it rests at a point nine feet from the bow2 fasten it here with a couple of nails driven in1 but leaving their heads far enough from the wood to render it easy to draw them out4 ,now adjust the bow-piece1 and use the greatest of care in making the sides exactly alike1 otherwise you will wonder how you happened to have such an unaccountable twist in your craft4 ,when the stem is properly adjusted fasten on the side-boards with screws4 ,do not try to hammer the screws in place1 but bore holes first and use a screwdriver4 ,take your stern-piece and measure the exact width of the stern end of the bottom-boards and mark it at the bottom of the stern-piece2 or1 better still1 since the stern-board will set at an angle1 put it temporarily in place1 bind it fast with the ropes1 and mark with a pencil just where the side-boards cross the ends of the stern-board4 ,remove the stern-board and saw out a piece one inch wide1 the thickness of the bottom-board1 from the place marked to the bottom of the stern-board4 ,because the top side-board overlaps the bottom one at the stern1 there must be either a large crack left there or the stern-board notched to fit the side-boards 7,fig4 #bad74 ,replace the stern-board and nail side-boards fast to it2 now loosen the ropes which have held your boat in shape1 and fit on the upper side-boards so that at the stern they will overlap the lower side-boards an inch4 ,hold in place with your rope1 then bring the bow end up against the stern-piece over the top of the lower side-board and fasten it in place with a rope4 ,with your carpenter's pencil mark the overlap1 and with a plane made for that purpose1 called a rabbet1 trim down your board so that it will have a shoulder and an overlap to rest on the bottom-board1 running out to nothing at the bow4 ,when the boards fit all right over the lower ones bind them in place and then nail them there 7,fig4 #bjh74 ,if you can obtain two good boards of the requisite size1 you need have but one board for each side of your boat2 this will obviate the necessity of using the rabbet1 and be very much easier2 but with single boards of the required dimensions there is great danger of splitting or cracking while bending the boards4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bae4 ,fig4 #baa4 ,figs4 #bab1 #bac1 and #bad4 ,the rough-and-ready4 ,planing the ,bottom ,turn the boat upside down and you will see that there is a decided arch extending from stem to stern4 ,this would cause the boat to sink too deep amidship1 and must be remedied to some extent by cutting away the middle of the arch1 so that the sides in the exact centre will measure at least four inches less in width than at the bow and stern1 and reducing the convex or curved form to a straight line in the middle1 which will give a sheer to the bow and stern4 ,a good plane is the best tool to use for this purpose1 as with it there is no danger of cutting too deep or of splitting the side-boards4 ,saw off the projecting ends of the side-boards at the stern4 ,make the bottom of three-quarter-inch boards1 they may be bevelled like ,fig4 #bca4 ,lay the boards crosswise1 nail them in place1 leaving the irregular ends projecting on each side4 ,the reason for this is obvious4 ,when you look at the bottom of the boat you will at once see that on account of the form no two boards can be the same shape1 and the easiest way is to treat the boat bottom as if it were a square-sided scow4 ,fit the planks closely together1 nail them on securely1 and then neatly saw off the projecting ends 7,fig4 #baj74 ,the ,deck ,the brace may now be removed by carefully drawing the nails1 so that a bottom plank trimmed to fit the bow and the stern can be securely nailed in place 7,fig4 #baf74 ,cut a notch in your brace to fit tightly over the bottom plank just laid4 ,plane off the top of the brace so that when in the boat the top of the brace will be four inches below the top of the side-boards4 ,replace the brace and securely nail it4 ,next cut two small cross-pieces 7,f1 ,g1 ,fig4 #bji7 and place them near the bow1 four inches below the top of the sides of the boat4 ,drive the nails from the outside through the side-boards into the end of ,f and ,g1 the cross-brace4 ,cut out a bow-piece to fit from the middle of ,g to the bow and nail it in place1 driving the nails from the outside into the edge of the bow-piece4 ,fasten a small cleat along the boat from the solid board brace to ,f on each side and deck the space over with light lumber4 ,of the same material make a trap door to fit in between the braces ,f and ,g4 ,this door should be big enough for a boy to reach through1 for this compartment is intended as a safe place to store cooking utensils1 foods1 etc41 as well as a water-tight compartment4 ,at a point five feet from the stern put another cross-brace1 similar to the ones in the bow1 four inches below the top of the sides4 ,at the same level nail a cleat on the stern-piece and make a stern seat by boarding over between the cross-piece and the cleat4 ,when your boat is resting securely on the floor or level ground rig a temporary seat1 then take an oar and by experiment find just where the rowlock will be most convenient and mark the spot4 ,also mark the spot best suited for the seat4 ,on each side of the spot marked for the rowlock cut two notches in the side-boards two inches deep1 one and a half inch wide1 and three inches apart4 ,saw two more notches exactly like these upon the opposite side of your boat4 ,these will make the rowlocks when the side-strips are nailed on 7,fig4 #baf74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #baf4--,top view of rough-and-ready1 with tiller stick4 ,the side-strips should each be made of one-inch plank three inches wide and a few inches longer than the side-boards4 ,nail the strips on the outside of the boat flush with the top of the side-boards4 ,make your thole-pins of some hard wood1 and make two sets of them while you are about it1 one set to use and one set to lose4 ,screw a hard-wood cleat on the inside of your boat over each pair of rowlocks1 as shown in ,fig4 #baf4 ,ready for the ,water ,fasten the remaining bow-piece securely over the ends of your side-boards1 and the nose of your craft is finished4 ,put a good1 heavy keel on your boat by screwing it tightly in the stern to the hard-wood rudder-post that is fastened to the centre of the stern2 bolt your keel with four iron bolts 7,fig4 #baa7 to the bottom of the boat1 and the ship is ready to launch1 after which she can be equipped with sails and oars4 ,of course1 you understand that all nail-holes and crevices should be puttied up1 and if paint is used1 it must be applied before wetting the boat4 ,but if you have done your work well1 there will be little need of paint or putty to make it tight after the wood has swelled in the water4 ,fasten your rudder on with hooks and screw-eyes1 and make it as shown in the diagram 7,fig4 #baa74 ,step your mainmast in the bow through a round hole in the deck and a square hole in the step1 which must1 of course1 be screwed tightly to the bottom before the bow is decked over4 ,step your jigger or dandy mast in the stern after the same manner4 ,these masts should neither of them be very large1 and are intended to be removed at pleasure by unstepping them1 that is1 simply pulling them out of their sockets4 ,an outrigger will be found necessary for your dandy-sail1 and since the deck aft is below the sides of the boat1 a block of wood will have to be nailed to the deck to the starboard1 or right-hand1 side of the rudder-post4 ,if the builder chooses1 he can make the decks flush with the sides of the boat and thus avoid blocks4 ,a couple of staples for the out-rigger to slip through are next in order4 ,they must be fastened firmly in the block or stick of wood just nailed to the deck4 ,a similar arrangement can be made for the bowsprit1 but as it is a movable bowsprit1 and the stem of the boat is in the way1 put it to the port1 or left-hand1 side of the stem of the craft 7,fig4 #baf74 ,how to ,make the ,sail ,secure for a sail material as strong as you can find1 but it need not be heavy4 ,unbleached muslin is cheap and will make good sails4 ,turn over the edges and sew or hem them1 as in the diagram4 ,make eyelets like button-holes in the luff of the sail--that is1 the edge of the sail nearest the mast4 ,sew a small loop of rope in each corner of the sail4 ,through the eyelets lace the luff of the sail to the mast4 ,from spruce or pine make a sprit two inches in diameter4 ,for a sheet--that is1 the rope or line that you manage the sail with--tie a good stout line about a dozen feet long to the loop in the loose corner of the sail4 ,trim the upper end of the sprit to fit the loop in the top of the sail and make a simple notch in the other end to hold the line called the snotter4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bag1 with tiller4--,rudder lines4 ,now1 as you can readily see by referring to ,fig4 #baa1 when the sprit is pushed into the loop at the top of the sail the sail is spread4 ,to hold it in place make a cleat like the one in the diagram and bind it firmly with a cord to the sprit2 pass the snotter1 or line1 fastened to the mast through the notch in the sprit up to the cleat and make fast1 and the sail is set4 ,the jigger1 or dandy1 is exactly like the mainsail except in size1 and the sheet rope is run through a block or pulley at the end of the outrigger and then made fast to a cleat near the man at the rudder or helm4 ,the jib is a simple affair hooked on a screw-eye in the end of the bowsprit4 ,the jib halyard1 or line for hoisting the jib1 runs from the top of the jib through a screw-eye in the top of the mast1 down the port side of the mast to a cleat1 where it is made fast4 ,when the jib is set the jib-sheets are fastened to a loop sewed in the jib at the lower or loose end4 ,there are two jib-sheets1 one for each side of the boat1 so that one may be made fast and the other loosened1 according to the wind4 ,the remaining details you must study out from the diagrams or learn by experiment4 ,how to ,reef ,her ,when the wind is high reef your sails by letting go the snotter and pulling out the sprit4 ,this will drop your peak and leave you with a simple leg-of-mutton sail4 ,only use the jib in light weather4 ,in this boat1 with a little knowledge of sailing1 you may cruise for weeks1 lowering your sails at night and making a tent over the cock-pit for a sleeping-room4 ,sails with boom and gaffs may be used if desired4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,how ,,to ,,build ,,cheap ,,and ,,substantial ,,house-,,boats ,plans for a ,house-,boat that ,may ,be a ,camp or ,built as ,large as a ,hotel ,,when the great ,west of the ,united ,states began to attract immigrants from the ,eastern coast settlements1 the ,ohio ,river rolled between banks literally teeming with all sorts of wild game and wilder men3 then it was that the ,american house-boat had its birth4 ,the ,mississippi1 ,ohio1 and their tributaries furnished highways for easy travel1 of which the daring pioneers soon availed themselves4 ,lumber was to be had for the labor of felling the trees4 ,from the borders of the ,eastern plantations to the prairies1 and below the ,ohio to the ,mississippi1 and from the ,great ,lakes to the ,gulf of ,mexico1 was one vast forest of trees2 trees whose trunks were unscarred by the axe1 and whose tall tops reached an altitude which would hardly be believed by those of this generation1 who have only seen second1 third1 or fourth growth timber4 ,when the settlement of this new part of the country began it was not long before each stream poured out1 with its own flood of water1 ,a ,unique ,navy ,there were keel-boats1 built something like a modern canal-boat1 only of much greater dimensions2 there were broad-horns1 looking like ,noak's arks from some giant's toy-shop1 and there were flat-boats and rafts1 the latter with houses built on them1 all recklessly drifting1 or being propelled by long sweeps down the current into the great solemn1 unknown wilderness4 ,every island1 had it a tongue1 could tell of wrecks2 every point or headland1 of adventure4 ,the perils were great and the forest solemn1 but the immigrants were merry1 and the squeaking fiddle made the red man rise up from his hiding-place and look with wonder upon the long knives and their squaws dancing on the decks of their rude crafts1 as they swept by into the unknown4 ,the advent of the steam-boat gradually drove the flat-boat1 broad-horn1 keel-boat1 and all the primitive sweep-propelled craft from the rivers1 but many of the old boatmen were loath to give up so pleasant a mode of existence1 and they built themselves house-boats1 and1 still clinging to their nomadic habits1 took their wives1 and went to house-keeping on the bosom of the waters they loved so well4 ,their descendants now form what might well be called a race of river-dwellers1 and to this day their quaint little arks line the shores of the ,mississippi and its tributaries4 ,some of ,these ,house-,boats are as crudely made as the ,italian huts we see built along the railroads1 but others are neatly painted1 and the interiors are like the proverbial ,new ,england homes1 where everything is spick-and-span4 ,like the driftwood1 these boats come down the stream with every freshet1 and whenever it happens that the waters are particularly high they land at some promising spot and earn a livelihood on the adjacent water1 by fishing and working aboard the other river-craft1 or they land at some farming district1 and as the waters recede they prop up and level their boats1 on the bank1 with stones or blocks of wood placed under the lower corners of their homes4 ,the muddy waters1 as they retire1 leave a long stretch of fertile land between the stranded house and the river1 and this space is utilized as a farm1 where ducks1 chickens1 goats and pigs are raised and where garden-truck grows luxuriantly4 ,from a boat their home has been transformed to a farm-house2 but sooner or later there will be another big freshet1 and when the waters reach the late farm-house1 lo6 it is a boat again1 and goes drifting in its happy-go-lucky way down the current4 ,if it escapes the perils of snags and the monster battering-rams1 which the rapid current makes of the drifting trees in the flood1 it will land again1 somewhere1 down-stream4 ,lately1 while on a sketching trip through ,kentucky1 ,i was greatly interested in these boats1 and on the ,ohio ,river ,i saw several making good headway against the four-mile-an-hour current4 ,this they did by the aid of ,big ,square ,sails spread on a mast planted near their bows1 thus demonstrating the practicability of the use of sails for house-boats4 ,the house-boats to be described in this article are much better adapted for sailing than any of the craft used by the water-gypsies of the ,western rivers4 ,for open and exposed waters1 like the large lakes which dot many of our inland ,states1 or the ,long ,island ,sound on our coast1 the following plans of the ,american boy's house-boat will have to be altered1 but the alterations will be all in the hull4 ,if you make the hull three feet deep it will have the effect of lowering the cabin1 while the head-room inside will remain the same4 ,such a craft can carry a good-sized sail1 and weather any gale you are liable to encounter1 even on the ,sound1 during the summer months4 ,since the passing away of the glorious old flat-boat days1 idle people in ,england have introduced the ,house-,boat as a ,fashionable ,fad which has spread to this country1 and the boys now have a new source of fun1 as a result of this ,english fad4 ,there are still some nooks and corners left in every ,state in the ,union which the greedy pot-hunter and the devouring saw-mill have as yet left undisturbed1 and at such places the boy boatmen may wind their horns1 as their ancestors did of old1 and have almost as good a time4 ,but first of all they must have a boat1 and for convenience the ,american boy's house-boat will probably be found to excel either a broad-horn or a flat-boat model1 it being a link between the two4 ,the simplest possible house-boat is a ,crusoe raft1,a with a cabin near the stern and a sand-box for a camp-fire at the bow4 ,a good time can be had aboard even this primitive craft4 ,the next step in evolution is the long open scow1 with a cabin formed by stretching canvas over hoops that reach from side to side of the boat 7see ,fig4 #bah74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bah4--;,a primitive house-boat4 ,every boy knows how to build ,a ,flat-,bottomed ,scow or at least every boy should know how to make as simple a craft as the scow1 but for fear some lad among my readers has neglected this part of his education1 ,i will give a few hints which he may follow4 ,building ,material ,select lumber that is free from large knots and other blemishes4 ,keep the two best boards for the sides of your boat4 ,with your saw cut the side boards into the form of ,fig4 #bai2 see that they are exact duplicates4 ,set the two pieces parallel to each other upon their straight or top edges1 as the first two pieces shown in ,fig4 #bbj4 ,nail on an end-piece at the bow and stern1 as the bumper is nailed in ,figs4 #bba and #bbb2 put the bottom on as shown in ,figs4 #aif and #baj1 and you have a simple scow4 ,centrepiece ,in ,fig4 #bai you will notice that there are two sides and a centrepiece1 but this centrepiece is not necessary for the ordinary open boat1 shown by ,fig4 #bah4 ,here you have one of the simple forms of house-boat1 and you can make it of dimensions to suit your convenience4 ,i will not occupy space with the details of this boat1 because they may be seen by a glance at the diagrams1 and my purpose is to tell you how to build the ,american boy's house-boat1 which is a more elegant craft than the rude open scow1 with a canvas-covered cabin1 shown by ,fig4 #bah4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bai4--,unfinished4 ,the ,sides of the ,house-,boat are #af feet long1 and to make them you need some sound two-inch planks4 ,after selecting the lumber plane it off and make the edges true and straight4 ,each side and the centrepiece should now measure exactly #af feet in length by #ad inches in width1 and about #b inches thick4 ,cut off from each end of each piece a triangle1 as shown by the dotted lines at ,g1 ,h1 ,i 7,fig4 #bbj72 from ,h to ,g is #a foot1 and from ,h to ,i is #g inches4 ,measure from ,h to ,i #g inches1 and mark the point4 ,then measure from ,h to ,g1 #ab inches1 and mark the point4 ,then1 with a carpenter's pencil1 draw a line from ,g to ,i1 and saw along this line4 ,keep the two best planks for the sides of your boat1 and use the one that is left for the centrepiece4 ,measure #b feet on the top or straight edge of your centrepiece1 and mark the point ,a 7,fig4 #bbj74 ,from ,a measure #h feet #aj inches1 and mark the point ,c 7,fig4 #bbj74 ,with a carpenter's square rule the lines ,a1 ,b and ,c1 ,d1 and make them each #aj inches long1 then rule the line ,b1 ,d 7,fig4 #bbj74 ,the piece ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d must now be carefully cut out3 this can be done by using the saw to cut ,a1 ,b and ,d1 ,c4 ,then1 about #f inches from ,a1 saw another line of the same length1 and with a chisel cut the block out4 ,you then have room to insert a rip-saw1 at ,b1 and can saw along the line ,b1 ,d until you reach ,d1 when the piece may be removed1 leaving the space ,a1 ,b1 ,d1 ,c for the cabin of the boat 7see ,figs4 #bba and #bbb47 ,at a point #i inches from the bow of the boat make a mark on the centrepiece1 and another mark #e inches farther away1 at ,f 7,fig4 #bbj74 ,with the saw cut a slit at each mark1 #a inch deep1 and with a chisel cut out1 as shown by the dotted lines2 do the same at ,e1 leaving a space of #a feet between the two notches1 which are made to allow the two planks shown in the plan 7,fig4 #bba7 to rest on4 ,these planks support the deck and the hatch1 at the locker in the bow4 ,the notches at ,e and ,f are not on the side-boards1 the planks being supported at the sides by uprights1 ,figs4 #bba and #bbb4 ,all that now remains to be done with the centrepiece is to saw some three-cornered notches on bottom edge1 one at bow1 one at stern1 and one or two amidship2 this is to allow the water which may leak in to flow freely over the whole bottom1 and to prevent it from gathering at one side and causing your craft to rest upon an uneven keel4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbj4--;,center board of house boat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bba4--,plan of house boat4 ,next select a level piece of ground near by and arrange the three pieces upon some supports1 as shown in ,fig4 #bai1 so that from outside to outside of side-pieces it will measure just #h feet across the bow and stern4 ,of #a-;inch board ,make ,four ,end-,pieces for the bow and stern 7see ,a1 ,a1 ,fig4 #bai71 to fit between the sides and centrepiece4 ,make them each a trifle wider than ,h1 ,i1 ,fig4 #bbj1 so that after they have been fitted they can be trimmed down with a plane1 and bevelled on the same slant as the bottom at ,g1 ,i1 ,fig4 #bbj4 ,it being #h feet between the outside of each centrepiece1 and the sides and the centrepiece being each #b inches thick1 that gives us #h feet #f inches1 or #g feet as the combined length of ,a and ,a 7,fig4 #bai74 ,in other words1 each end-piece will be half of #g feet long--that is1 #c feet #i inches long4 ,after making the four end-pieces1 each #c feet #i1 by #i inches1 fit the ends in place so that there is an inch protruding above and below4 ,see that your bow and stern are perfectly square1 and nail with wire nails through the sides into ,a and ,a2 toe-nail at the centrepiece--that is1 drive the nails from the broad side of ,a and ,a slantingly1 into the centrepiece1 after which trim down with your plane the projecting inch on bottom1 to agree with the slant of the bottom of the boat4 ,now for the ,bottom ,this is simple work4 ,all that is necessary is to have straight1 true edges to your one-inch planks1 fit them together1 and nail them in place4 ,of course1 when you come to the slant at bow and stern the bottom-boards at each end will have to have a bevelled edge1 to fit snugly against the boards on the flat part of the bottom of the boat2 but any boy who is accustomed to shake the gray matter in his brain can do this4 ,remember1 scientists say that thought is the agitation of the gray matter of the brain1 and if you are going to build a boat or play a good game of football you must shake up that gray stuff1 or the other boys will put you down as a stuff4 ,no boy can expect to be successful in building a boat1 of even the crudest type1 unless he keeps his wits about him1 so ,i shall take it for granted that there are no stuffs among my readers4 ,after the boards are all snugly nailed on the bottom1 and fitted together so that there are no cracks to calk up2 the hull is ready to have ,the ,bumpers nailed in place1 at bow and stern4 ,see the plan1 ,fig4 #bba1 and the elevation1 ,fig4 #bbb4 ,the bumpers must be made of #b-;inch plank1 #h feet long by about #i inches wide2 wide enough to cover ,a and ,a of ,fig4 #bai1 and to leave room for a bevel at the bottom edge to meet the slant of the bow and stern1 and still have room at the top to cover the edge of the deck to the hull 7see ,fig4 #bbb74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbb4--;,cross-section of boat ,the ,hull ,may ,now ,be ,painted with two coats of good paint1 and after it is dry may be turned over and allowed to rest on a number of round sticks1 called rollers4 ,if you will examine ,fig4 #bba you will see there ,twenty-,odd ,ribs ,these are what are called two-by-fours-that is1 #b inches thick by #d inches wide4 ,they support the floor of the cabin and forward locker1 at the same time adding strength to the hull4 ,the ribs are each the same length as the end-board4 ,a and ,a of ,fig4 #bai1 are nailed in place in the same manner4 ,each bottom-rib must have a notch #b inches deep cut in the bottom edge to allow the free passage of water1 so as to enable you to pump dry4 ,commencing at the stern1 the distance between the inside of the bumper and the first rib is #a foot #f inches4 ,this is a deck-rib1 as may be seen by reference to ,figs4 #bba and #bbb4 ,after measuring #a foot from the bumper1 on inside of side-board1 mark the point with a carpenter's pencil4 ,measure the same distance on the centrepiece1 and mark the point as before2 then carefully fit your rib in flush or even with the top of the side-piece1 and fasten it in place by nails driven through the side-board into the end of the rib1 and toe-nailed to centrepiece4 ,do the same with its mate on the other side of centrepiece4 ,the ,cabin of this ,house-,boat is to fit in the space1 ,a1 ,b1 ,d1 ,c of the centrepiece1 ,fig4 #bbj4 ,there is to be a one-inch plank at each end 7see ,fig4 #bbb71 next to which the side-supports at each end of cabin fit4 ,the supports are two-by-twos2 so1 allowing #a inch for the plank and #b inches for the upright support1 the next pair of ribs will be just #c inches from ,a ,b1 ,fig4 #bbj1 of the centrepiece 7see ,figs4 #bba and #bbb74 ,the twin ribs at the forward end of the cabin will be the same distance from ,d ,c1 ,fig4 #bbj1 as shown in the plan and elevation1 ,figs4 #bba and #bbb4 ,this leaves five pairs of ribs to be distributed between the front and back end of the cabin4 ,from the outside of each end-support to the inside of the nearest middle-support is #b feet #f inches4 ,allowing #b inches for the supports1 this will place the adjoining ribs #b feet #h inches from the outside of the end-supports4 ,the other ribs are placed midway between1 as may be seen by the elevation1 ,fig4 #bbb4 ,there is another pair of ,deck-,ribs at the forward end of the cabin1 which are placed flush with the line ,d1 ,c1 ,fig4 #bbj 7see ,figs4 #bba and #bbb74 ,the two pairs of ribs in the bow are spaced1 as shown in the diagram4 ,this description may appear as if it was a complicated affair2 but you will find it a simple thing to work out if you will remember to allow space for your pump in the stern1 space for the end-planks at after and forward end of cabin1 and space for your uprights4 ,the planks at after and forward end of cabin are to box in the cabin floor4 ,the ,boat ,may ,now ,be ,launched by sliding it over the rollers1 which will not be found a difficult operation4 ,the ,plans ,show ,three ,lockers --two in the bow under the hatch and one under the rear bunk--but if it is deemed necessary the space between-decks1 at each side of the cabin1 may be utilized as lockers4 ,in this space you can store enough truck to last for months4 ,a couple of doors in the plank at the front of the cabin opening1 under the deck1 will be found very convenient to reach the forward locker in wet weather4 ,the ,keel is a triangular piece of #b-;inch board1 made to fit exactly in the middle of the stern1 and had best be nailed in place before the boat is launched 7see ,fig4 #bbb74 ,the keel must have its bottom edge flush with the bottom of the boat1 and a strip of hard-wood nailed on the stern-end of the keel and bumper1 as shown in the diagram4 ,a couple of strong screw-eyes will support the rudder4 ,after the boat is launched the ,side-,supports for the ,cabin ,may ,be ,erected ,these are two-by-twos and eight in number1 and each #e feet #i inches long4 ,nail them securely at their lower ends to the adjoining ribs4 ,see that they are plumb1 and fasten them temporarily with diagonal pieces1 to hold the top ends in place1 while you nail down the lower deck or flooring4 ,now fit and nail the two #a-;inch planks in place1 at the bow and stern-end of the cabin1 each of which has its top one inch above the sides1 even with the proposed deck 7see dotted lines in ,fig4 #bbb74 ,use ,ordinary ,flooring or if that is not obtainable use -inch pine boards1 and run them lengthwise from the bow to the front end of the cabin and along the sides of the cabin4 ,then floor the cabin lengthwise from bow to stern4 ,this gives you a dry cabin floor1 for there are #d inches of space underneath for bilge-water1 which unless your boat is badly made and very leaky1 is plenty of room for what little water may leak in from above or below4 ,the two side-boards of the cabin floor must1 of course1 have square places neatly cut out to fit the uprights of the cabin4 ,this may be done by slipping the floor-board up against the uprights and carefully marking the places with a pencil where they will come through the board1 and then at each mark sawing two inches in the floor plank1 and cutting out the blocks with a chisel4 ,the ,hatch ,now take a four-by-four and saw off eight short supports for the two #a-;inch planks which support the hatch1 ,figs4 #bba and #bbb4 ,toe-nail the middle four-by-four to the floor in such a position that the two cross-planks 7which are made to fit in the notches ,e and ,f1 ,fig4 #bbj7 will rest on the supports4 ,nail the four other supports to the side-boards of your boat1 and on top of these nail the cross-planks1 as shown in the diagrams4 ,the boat is now ready for its ,upper ,deck of #a-;inch pine boards4 ,these are to be nailed on lengthwise1 bow and stern and at sides of cabin1 leaving1 of course1 the cabin open1 as shown by the position of the boys in ,fig4 #bbb1 and an opening1 #c feet by #b1 for the hatch 7,fig4 #bba74 ,the two floors will act as benches for the uprights of the cabin1 and hold them stiff and plumb4 ,to further stiffen the frame1 make two diagonals for the stern-end1 as shown in ,fig4 #bbc1 and nail them in place4 ,the ,rafters or roof-rods1 should extend a foot each way beyond the cabin1 hence cut them two feet longer than the cabin1 and after testing your uprights1 to see that they are exactly plumb1 nail the two side roof-rods in place 7see dotted lines in ,fig4 #bbb74 ,the cross-pieces at the ends1 as they support no great weight1 may be fitted between the two side-rods1 and nailed there4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbc4--;,end view4 ,the roof is to be made of -inch boards bent into a curve1 and the ridge-pole1 or centre roof-rod1 must needs have some support4 ,this is obtained by two short pieces of #b by #d1 each #f inches long1 which are toe-nailed to the centre of each cross-rod1 and the ridge-pole nailed to their tops4 ,at #c feet from the upper deck the side frame-pieces are toe-nailed to the uprights4 ,as may be seen1 there are three two-by-fours on each side 7,fig4 #bbb74 ,the space between the side frame-pieces1 the two middle uprights1 and side roof-rods1 is where the windows are to be placed4 ,use -inch 7tongue and groove preferred7 pine boards for sidings1 and ,box ,in ,your ,cabin neatly1 allowing space for windows on each side1 as indicated4 ,leave the front open4 ,of the same kind of boards make your roof2 the boards being light you can bend them down upon each side and nail them to the side roof-rods1 forming a pretty curve1 as may be seen in the illustration of the ,american boy's house-boat4 ,this ,roof to be finished neatly and made entirely water-proof1 should be covered with tent-cloth or light canvas1 smoothly stretched over and tacked upon the under side of the projecting edges4 ,three good coats of paint will make it water-proof and pleasant to look upon4 ,the description1 so far1 has been for a neatly finished craft1 but ,i have seen very serviceable and comfortable house-boats built of rough lumber1 in which case the curved roof1 when they had one1 had narrow strips nailed over the boards where they joined each other or was covered with tar-paper4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbd4--;,end view4 ,to ,contrive a ,movable ,front to your cabin1 make two doors to fit and close the front opening1 but in place of hanging the doors on hinges1 set them in place4 ,each door should have a good strong strap nailed securely on the inside1 for a handle1 and a batten or cross-piece at top and bottom of inside surface4 ,a #a by #d1 run parallel to the front top cross-frame and nailed there1 just a sufficient distance from it to allow the top of the door to be inserted between1 will hold the top of the door securely4 ,a two-by-four1 with bolt-holes near either end to correspond with bolt-holes in the floor1 will hold the bottom when the door is pushed in place1 the movable bottom-piece shoved against it and the bolts thrust in 7see ,fig4 #bbe1 view from inside of cabin4 ,fig4 #bbf1 side view74 ,it will be far less work to break in the side of the cabin than to burst in such doors1 if they are well made4 ,these doors possess this advantage3 they can be removed and used as table-tops1 leaving the whole front open to the summer breeze1 or one may be removed1 and still allow plenty of ventilation4 ,a moulding on deck around the cabin is not necessary1 but it will add finish and prevent the rain-water from leaking in4 ,to lock up the boat you must set the doors from the inside1 and if you wish to leave the craft locked you must crawl out of the window and fasten the latter with a lock4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbe4--;,inside view of door4 ,illustration3 ,fig #bbf--,side view of door4 ,fig4 #bbg shows the construction of ,the ,rudder and also an arrangement by which it may be worked from the front of the boat1 which1 when the boat is towed1 will be found most convenient4 ,the hatch should be made of #a-;inch boards1 to fit snugly flush with the deck1 as in the illustration1 or made of #b-;inch plank1 and a moulding fitted around the opening1 as shown in ,fig4 #bbb4 ,a ,pair of ,rowlocks made of two round oak sticks with an iron rod in their upper ends1 may be placed in holes in the deck near the bow1 and the boat can be propelled by two oarsmen using long sweeps1 which have holes at the proper places to fit over the iron rods projecting from the oaken rowlocks4 ,these rowlocks may be removed when not in use1 and the holes closed by wooden plugs1 while the sweeps can be hung at the side of the cabin1 under its eaves1 or lashed fast to the roof4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbg4--,side elevation4 ,two or ,more ,ash ,poles for pushing or poling the boat over shallow water or other difficult places for navigation are handy1 and should not be left out of the equipment4 ,the window-sashes may be hung on hinges and supplied with hooks and screw-eyes to fasten them open by hooking them to the eaves when it is desired to let in the fresh air4 ,all window openings should be protected by wire netting to keep out insects4 ,two bunks can be fitted at the rear end of the cabin1 one above the other1 the bottom bunk being the lid to a locker 7see ,fig4 #bbb74 ,the ,locker is simply a box1 the top of which is just below the deck-line and extending the full width of the cabin4 ,it has hinges at the back1 and may be opened for the storage of luggage4 ,over the lid blankets are folded1 making a divan during the day and a bed at night4 ,the top bunk is made like the frame of a cheap cot1 but in place of being upholstered it has a strong piece of canvas stretched across it4 ,this bunk is also hinged to the back of the cabin1 so that when not in use it can be swung up against the roof and fastened there as the top berth in a sleeping-car is fastened4 ,four #d by #d posts can be bolted to the side-support at each corner of the bottom bunk2 they will amply support the top bunk1 as the legs do a table-top when the frame is allowed to rest upon their upper ends4 ,this makes accommodation for two boys1 and there is still room for upper and lower side bunks1 the cabin being but six feet wide4 ,if you put bunks on both sides you will be rather crowded1 it is true1 but by allowing a #a-;foot passage in the middle1 you can have two side bunks and plenty of head room4 ,this will accommodate four boys1 and that is a full crew for a boat of this size4 ,on board a yacht ,i have often seen four full-grown men crowded into a smaller space in the cabin1 while the sailormen in the fo'-castle had not near that amount of room4 ,a ,more ,simple ,set of ,plans ,here the cabin is built on top of the upper deck1 and there are no bottom-ribs1 the uprights being held in place by blocks nailed to the bottom of the boat1 and by the deck of the boat4 ,this is secure enough for well-protected waters1 small lakes1 and small streams4 ,upon the inland streams of ,new ,york ,state ,i have seen two-story house-boats1 the cabin1 or house1 being only a framework covered with canvas4 ,one such craft ,i saw in central ,new ,york1 drifting downstream over a shallow riff1 and as it bumped along over the stones it presented a strange sight4 ,the night was intensely dark1 and the boat brightly lighted4 ,the lights shone through the canvas covering1 and this big1 luminous house went bobbing over the shallow water1 while shouts of laughter and the plinky-plunk of a banjo told in an unmistakable manner of the jolly time the crew were having4 ,canvas-,cabined ,house-,boat ,if you take an ordinary open scow and erect a frame of uprights and cross-pieces1 and cover it with canvas1 you will have just such a boat as the one seen in central ,new ,york4 ,this boat may be propelled by oars1 the rowers sitting under cover1 and the canvas being lifted at the sides to allow the sweeps to work2 but of course it will not be as snug as the well-made ,american boy's house-boat1 neither can it stand the same amount of rough usage1 wind1 and rain as the latter boat4 ,in the frontispiece the reader will notice a stove-pipe at the stern2 there is room for a small stove back of the cabin1 and in fair weather it is much better to cook outside than inside the cabin4 ,when you tie up to the shore for any length of time1 a rude shelter of boughs and bark will make a good kitchen on the land1 in which the stove may be placed1 and you will enjoy all the fun of a camp1 with the advantage of a snug house to sleep in4 ,for the benefit of boys who doubt their ability to build a boat of this description1 it may be well to state that other lads have used these directions and plans with successful results1 and their boats now gracefully float on many waters1 a source of satisfaction and pride to their owners4 ,information for ,old ,boys ,on all the ,western rivers small flat-boats or scows are to be had at prices which vary in accordance with the mercantile instincts of the purchaser1 and with the desire of the seller to dispose of his craft4 ,such boats are propelled by sweeps1 a name used to designate the long poles with boards on their outer edges that serve as blades and form the oars4 ,these boats are often supplied with a deck-house1 extending almost from end to end1 and if such a house is lacking one may be built with little expense4 ,the cabin may be divided into rooms and the sleeping apartments supplied with cheaply made bunks4 ,it is not the material of the bunk which makes it comfortable--it is the mattress in the bunk upon which your comfort will depend4 ,the kitchen and dining-room may be all in one4 ,an awning spread over the roof will make a delightful place in which to lounge and catch the river breezes4 ,the ,cost of ,house-,boats ,the cost of a ready-made flat-bottomed house-boat is anywhere from thirty dollars to one or more thousands4 ,in ,florida such a boat1 #dj by #bj feet1 built for the quiet waters of the ,st4 ,john's ,river or its tributaries1 or the placid lagoons1 will cost eight hundred dollars4 ,this boat is well painted outside and rubbed down to a fine oil finish inside2 it has one deck1 and the hull is used for toilet apartments and state-rooms2 the hull is well calked and all is in good trim4 ,such expense is1 however1 altogether unnecessary--there need be no paint or polish4 ,all you need is a well-calked hull and a water-tight roof of boards or canvas overhead2 cots or bunks to sleep in2 chairs1 stools1 boxes or benches to sit on2 hammocks to loll in1 and a good supply of provisions in the larder4 ,house-boats for the open waters are necessarily more expensive4 ,as a rule they need round bottoms that stand well out of the water1 and are built like the hull of a ship4 ,these boats cost as much to build as a small yacht4 ,from twelve to fifteen hundred dollars will build a good house-boat1 with comfortable sleeping-berths1 toilet-rooms and store-rooms below2 a kitchen1 dining-room1 and living-rooms on the cabin deck1 with wide1 breezy passageways separating them4 ,if a bargain can be found in an old schooner with a good hull1 for two or three hundred dollars1 a first-class house-boat can be made by the expenditure of as much more for a cabin4 ,the roofs of all house-boats should extend a foot or more beyond the sides of the cabin4 ,for ,people of ,limited ,means ,for people with little money to spend1 these expensive boats are as much out of reach as a yacht1 but they may often be rented for prices within the means of people in moderate circumstances4 ,at ,new ,york ,i have known a good schooner-yacht1 #hd feet over all1 to be chartered for two weeks1 with crew of skipper and two men1 the larder plentifully supplied with provisions and luxuries for six people and the crew1 making nine in all1 at a cost of thirty-six dollars apiece for each of the six passengers4 ,an equally good house-boat should not cost over twelve dollars a week per passenger for a party of ten4 ,in inland waters1 if a boat could be rented1 the cost should not exceed seven or eight dollars a week per passenger4 ,a canal-boat is a most excellent house-boat for a pleasure party1 either on inland streams or along our coast4 ,street-,car ,cabins ,since the introduction of cable and trolley-cars the street-car companies have been selling their old horse-cars1 in some instances at figures below the cost of the window-glass in them2 so cheap1 in fact1 that poor people buy them to use as woodsheds and chicken-coops4 ,one of these cars will make an ideal cabin for a house-boat1 and can be adapted for that purpose with little or no alterations4 ,all it needs is a good flat-boat to rest in1 and you have a palatial house-boat4 ,,footnote3 ,a ,see p4 #aj4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,a ,,cheap ,,and ,,speedy ,,motor-,,boat ,how ,to ,build the ,jackson ,glider--,a ,very ,simple ,form of ,motor-,boat1 ,which ,will ,hold ,its ,own in ,speed ,with ,even ,expensive ,boats of ,double ,horse-,power ,,this boat is intended to slide over the top of the water and not through it1 consequently it is built in the form of a flat-bottom scow4 ,order your wood dressed on both sides1 otherwise it will come with one side rough4 ,for the side-boards we need two pine1 or cedar boards1 to measure1 when trimmed1 #ad feet 7,fig4 #bbh71 and to be #af or #ah inches wide4 ,the ,stern-,board when trimmed1 will be #b feet long by #a foot1 #h inches wide4 ,it may even be a little wider1 because the protruding part can be planed down after the boat is built 7,fig4 #bbi74 ,to make the bow measure from the point ,e 7,fig4 #bbh7 #a foot #h inches and mark the point ,c4 ,measure along the same line #ac inches and mark the point ,d4 ,next measure from ,b down along the edge of the boat one inch and mark the point ,f4 ,again measure down from ,b1 #e inches and mark the point ,g4 ,with a carpenter's pencil draw the lines ,f ,d and ,g ,c and saw these pieces off along the dotted line 7,fig4 #bcb74 ,the bow can then be rounded at the points ,a and ,b with a sharp knife or jackplane4 ,to get the proper slant on the stern1 measure from ,h #d inches to ,l and saw off the triangle ,,lhk4 ,make the other side board an exact duplicate of the first one1 as in ,fig4 #bbh4 ,next set these two boards on edge1 like sledge runners 7,fig4 #bcj71 and let them be #b feet1 #f inches apart 7the boat will be safer if made six inches wider1 and its speed will be almost as great71 which can be tested by fitting the stern-boards between them before nailing the temporary boards on1 which are to hold them in place 7,fig4 #bcj74 ,do not drive the nails home1 but leave the heads protruding on all temporary braces1 so that they may be easily removed when necessary4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbh4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbi4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bcj4--,parts of motor-boat4 ,now turn the boat bottom side up and nail the bottom on1 as already described in previous chapters 7,fig4 #bcb74 ,the bottom-boards are to be so planed upon their edges that they leave ,v-shaped grooves on the inside of the boat to be calked with candlewick and putty 7,fig4 #bca74 ,next make a shaft-log by cutting a board in a triangular piece1 as shown in ,fig4 #bcc1 and nailing two other pieces of board on it1 and leaving a space for the shaft-rod1 over which is nailed a duplicate of the bottom-board1 as shown in ,fig4 #bcd4 ,make the shaft-log of three thicknesses of #a-;inch plank4 ,to make it more secure there should be a board nailed on the inside bottom of the boat1 as shown in ,fig4 #bce by the dotted lines4 ,this board is put there to strengthen the bottom and allow us to cut a slot through for the admission of a shaft 7,fig4 #bcf7 which is drawn on a scale shown below it4 ,with the engine comes a stuffing box1 through which the shaft passes and which prevents the water from coming up through the shaft-hole4 ,the stuffing boxes1 which are furnished to fit upon the inside of the boat1 are expensive1 but one to fit upon the stern of the shaft-log costs but little1 and will answer all purposes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bca4 ,of course1 when attaching the shaft-log to the bottom1 it must be in the exact centre of the boat4 ,find the centre of the boat at the bow and stern1 mark the points and snap a chalk-line between them4 ,now place the shaft-log in position on this line and while holding that there firmly1 mark around it with a carpenter's pencil4 ,next lay the shaft-log flat on its side with its edge along this line and with your pencil mark on the bottom of the boat the exact place where the shaft-hole must be cut to correspond with the one in the shaft-log4 ,as may be seen by ,fig4 #bcf1 the shaft runs through at an acute angle2 hence the hole must be bored on a slant1 or better still a slot cut through the floor long enough to allow for the slant4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bcb4 ,fig4 #bcc4 ,fig4 #bcd4 ,fig4 #bci4 ,fig4 #bce4 ,fig4 #bcf4 ,fig4 #bcg4 ,fig4 #bch4 ,details of motor-boat4 ,the leak1 which would naturally occur here is prevented by the stuffing box which is fastened on to the stern-end of the shaft-log where the latter protrudes for the propeller4 ,to set the engine in the boat it is necessary to have an engine-bed4 ,this is made of two pieces of board cut diagonally1 upon which the engine rests4 ,fig4 #bcg shows a piece of #b-;inch board and a method of sawing it to make the duplicate pieces to form the engine-bed4 ,the dimension of these pieces must be obtained by measuring the width of the engine rest1 which is to be installed4 ,the angle1 of course1 must correspond to the angle of the shaft4 ,make your own rudder of any shape that suits your fancy1 square or paddle-shaped1 of a piece of galvanized iron or of wood1 as shown in the diagram2 or you can simply fasten the rudder-stem to the transom 7stern-board71 as is often done on row-boats and sail-boats4 ,if you desire to make your rudder like the one shown here1 use two pieces of galvanized pipes for your rudder-posts1 one of which fits loosely inside of the other4 ,make the rudder-posts of what is known as #c_/h-;inch 7which means literally a #c_/h-;inch opening7 and for its jacket use a -inch pipe1 or any two kinds of pipe1 which will allow one to turn loosely inside the other4 ,the smaller pipe can be bent easily by hand to suit your convenience1 after it has been thrust through the larger pipe4 ,first bend the lower end of the small pipe to fit your proposed rudder1 then remove the larger pipe and flatten the lower end of the small one by beating it with the hammer4 ,to bore the screw-holes in the flattened end you will use a small tool for drilling metal4 ,one of these drills1 which will fit any carpenter's brace1 can be procured for the cost of a few cents4 ,drill holes through the flattened end of your pipe for the reception of your screws1 which are to secure it to the rudder4 ,it is now necessary to fasten a block of #b-;inch plank securely to the bottom of the boat upon the inside where the rudder-post is to be set4 ,this block might best be secured on with four bolts4 ,a hole is then bored through the block and the bottom of the boat a trifle smaller than the largest piece of pipe2 the latter is supposed to have screw threads upon its lower end 7,fig4 #bch7 so that it may be screwed into the wood1 but before doing so coat the threads with white lead and also the inside of the hole in the block with the same substance4 ,when the larger pipe is now screwed into the block until its lower end is flushed with the outside bottom of the boat1 the white lead will not only make the process easier1 but will tend to keep out the moisture and water from the joint4 ,from the outside thrust the upper end of the small pipe through the hole in the bottom until it protrudes the proper distance above the larger pipe1 and with the point of a nail scratch a mark on the surface of the small pipe where it issues from the big one4 ,at this point drill a hole through the small pipe to admit a nail which is to act as a peg to keep the helm from sliding down and jamming in its bearings4 ,if you choose1 a small seat or deck may be inserted in the stern1 through which the helm extends and which will help to steady it4 ,the top of the helm1 or protruding ends of the small pipe may now be bent over toward the bow1 as shown in the diagram1 and by holding some hard substance under it1 the end may be flattened with a hammer and two holes drilled through the flattened end for the rudder-line1 as in ,fig4 #bci4 ,these lines work the rudder and extend on each side of the boat through some clothes-lines pulleys1 as shown in ,fig4 #bci4 ,if you slice off the ring from a common rubber hose and slip it over the inside pipe before you fasten it in place1 it will prevent the water from spurting up through the rudder pipe when the boat is speeding4 ,any boat will leak if not carefully built and the simplest kind of a craft carefully put together is as water-tight as the most finished and expensive boat4 ,for a gasoline tank any good galvanized iron vessel will answer if it holds five gallons or more of gasoline4 ,it can be placed in the bow on a rest made for it4 ,of course the bottom of the tank must be on a level or higher than the carburetor of the engine2 the tank is connected by a small copper1 or block-tin pipe1 which you procure with the engine4 ,this boat1 if built according to plans1 should cost ten dollars or less1 not counting the cost of the engine4 ,the cost of the latter will vary according to the style of one you use1 and whether you get it first or second hand4 ,a ten-horse power engine drove a boat of this kind at the rate of eighteen miles an hour4 ,for beginners1 this is as far as it is safe to go in boat-building1 but thus far any one with a rudimentary knowledge of the use of tools can go1 and1 if one has followed the book through from chapter to chapter he should be a good boat-builder at ,the ,end ,,the ,,beard ,,books ,,for ,,boys ,by ,,dan ,c4 ,,beard ,illustration ,,the ,,american ,,boy',s ,,handy ,,book4 ,or1 ,what to ,do and ,how to ,do ,it ,illustrated by the author ,gives sports adapted to all seasons of the year1 tells boys how to make all kinds of things--boats1 traps1 toys1 puzzles1 aquariums1 fishing-tackle2 how to tie knots1 splice ropes1 to make bird calls1 sleds1 blow-guns1 balloons2 how to rear wild birds1 to train dogs1 and do the thousand and one things that boys take delight in4 ,,the ,,outdoor ,,handy ,,book4 ,for ,playground1 ,field1 and ,forest ,illustrated by the author ,how to play all sorts of games with marbles1 how to make and spin more kinds of tops than most boys ever heard of1 how to make the latest things in plain and fancy kites1 where to dig bait and how to fish1 all about boats and sailing1 and a host of other things 4 4 4 an unmixed delight to any boy4--,new ,york ,tribune4 ,,the ,,field ,,and ,,forest ,,handy ,,book4 ,or1 ,new ,ideas for ,out of ,doors ,illustrated by the author ,instructions as to ways to build boats and fire-engines1 make aquariums1 rafts1 and sleds1 to camp in a back-yard1 etc4 ,no better book of the kind exists4--,chicago ,record-,herald4 ,,shelters1 ,,shacks1 ,,and ,,shanties ,illustrated by the author ,easily workable directions1 accompanied by very full illustration1 for over fifty shelters1 shacks1 and shanties4 ,,boat-,,building ,,and ,,boating4 ,a ,handy ,book for ,beginners ,illustrated by the author ,all that ,dan ,beard knows and has written about the building of every simple kind of boat1 from a raft to a cheap motor-boat1 is brought together in this book4 ,,the ,,jack ,,of ,,all ,,trades4 ,or1 ,new ,ideas for ,american ,boys ,illustrated by the author ,this book is a capital one to give any boy for a present at ,christmas1 on a birthday1 or indeed at any time4--,the ,outlook4 ,,the ,,boy ,,pioneers4 ,sons of ,daniel ,boone ,illustrated by the author ,how to become a member of the ',sons of ,daniel ,boone' and take part in all the old pioneer games1 and many other things in which boys are interested4--,philadelphia ,press4 ,,the ,,black ,,wolf-,,pack ,a genuine thriller of mystery and red-blooded conflicts1 well calculated to hold the mind and the heart of its boy and1 for that matter1 its adult reader4--,philadelphia ,north ,american4 ,,the ,,beard ,,books ,,for ,,girls ,by ,,lina ,,beard and ,,adelia ,b4 ,,beard ,illustration ,,the ,,american ,,girl',s ,,handy ,,book4 ,how to ,amuse ,yourself and ,others ,with nearly #ejj illustrations ,it is a treasure which1 once possessed1 no practical girl would willingly part with4--,,grace ,,greenwood4 ,,things ,,worth ,,doing ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,do ,,them ,with some #fjj drawings by the authors that show exactly how they should be done ,the book will tell you how to do nearly anything that any live girl really wants to do4--,the ,world ,to-day4 ,,handicraft ,,and ,,recreation ,,for ,,girls ,with over #gjj illustrations by the authors ,it teaches how to make serviceable and useful things of all kinds out of every kind of material4 ,it also tells how to play and how to make things to play with4--,chicago ,evening ,post4 ,,what ,a ,,girl ,,can ,,make ,,and ,,do4 ,new ,ideas for ,work and ,play ,with more than #cjj illustrations by the authors ,it would be a dull girl who could not make herself busy and happy following its precepts4 4 4 4 ,a most inspiring book for an active-minded girl4--,chicago ,record-,herald4 ,,on ,,the ,,trail ,illustrated by the authors ,this volume tells how a girl can live outdoors1 camping in the woods1 and learning to know its wild inhabitants4 ,,mother ,,nature',s ,,toy ,,shop ,profusely illustrated by the authors ,how children can make toys easily and economically from wild flowers1 grasses1 green leaves1 seed-vessels1 fruits1 etc4 ,,little ,,folks' ,,handy ,,book ,with many illustrations ,contains a wealth of devices for entertaining children by means of paper building-cards1 wooden berry-baskets1 straw and paper furniture1 paper jewelry1 etc4 ,,charles ,,scribner',s ,,sons1 ,,new ,,york 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's note3 ,punctuation errors were corrected4 ,inconsistent hyphenation was retained4 ,page #db1 staps changed to straps 7straps with your hand7 ,page #eh1 mechancial changed to mechanical 7with mechanical aid7