,,trans-,,himalaya ,illu/ration ,,macmillan ,,& ,,co41 ,,limit$ ,,london ,,bombay ,,calcutta ,,melb\rne ,,! ,,macmillan ,,company ,,new ,,york ,,bo/on ,,*icago ,,atlanta ,,san ,,francisco ,,! ,,macmillan ,,co4 ,,( ,,canada1 ,,ltd4 ,,toronto ,illu/ration3 ,aron ,jonason ,photogr4 #ahi4 ,,sv5 ,,h$94 ,frontispiece ,,trans-,,himalaya ,,discov]ies ,,& ,,adv5tures ,,9 ,,tibet ,,by ,,sv5 ,,h$9 ,,) #chh ,,illu/rations ,,f ,,photographs1 ,,wat]-,,col\r ,,sket*es1 ,,& ,,draw+s ,,by ,,! ,,au?or ,,& #aj ,,maps ,,9 ,,two ,,volumes ,,vol4 ,,ii ,,macmillan ,,& ,,co41 ,,limit$ ,,/4 ,,m>t9',s ,,/reet1 ,,london #aiaj ,fir/ ,edition #aiji ,repr9t$ #aiaj ,,cont5ts ,,*apt] ,,xxxv ,,page ,,immur$ ,,monks #a ,,*apt] ,,xxxvi ,,ov] ,,! ,,*ang-,,la-,,pod-,,la #ab ,,*apt] ,,xxxvii ,,t>go-,,gangri ,,& ,,! ,,%uru-,,tso #be ,,*apt] ,,xxxviii ,,to ,,! ,,outlet ,,( ,,! ,,*aktak-,,tsangpo ,,9 ,,! ,,brahmaputra #ch ,,*apt] ,,xxxix ,,muham$ ,,isa',s ,,dea? #eb ,,*apt] ,,xl ,,along ,,byways ,,to ,,tradum #fd ,,*apt] ,,xli ,a ,,peep ,,into ,,nepal #gg ,,*apt] ,,xlii ,,9 ,,se>* ,,( ,,! ,,s\rce ,,( ,,! ,,brahmaputra #hi ,,*apt] ,,xliii ,,! ,,s\rce ,,( ,,! ,,sacr$ ,,riv]--,a ,,dep>ture #ii ,,*apt] ,,xliv ,a ,,night ,,on ,,manas>[> #aaj ,,*apt] ,,xlv ,,m ,,lake ,,voyages #abb ,,*apt] ,,xlvi ,a ,,/ormy ,,voyage ,,ov] ,,! ,,holy ,,lake #acc ,,*apt] ,,xlvii ,,on ,,! ,,ro( ,,( ,,! ,,gossul ,,mona/]y #add ,,*apt] ,,xlviii ,,our ,,la/ ,,days ,,on ,,tso-,,mavang #aed ,,*apt] ,,xlix ,,adv5tures ,,on ,,langak-,,tso #aff ,,*apt] ,l ,,! ,,s\rce ,,( ,,! ,,sutlej #agh ,,*apt] ,,li ,a ,,pilgrimage ,,r\nd ,,kang-,,r9po*e #ahi ,,*apt] ,,lii ,,om ,,mani ,,padme ,,hum #bjj ,,*apt] ,,liii ,,! ,,discov]y ,,( ,,! ,,s\rce ,,( ,,! ,,indus #bjg ,,*apt] ,,liv ,a ,,resolution #bae ,,*apt] ,,lv ,a ,,new ,,*apt] #bbf ,,*apt] ,,lvi ,,up ,,to ,,! ,,heights ,,( ,,dapsang #bcg ,,*apt] ,,lvii ,,on ,,! ,,ro( ,,( ,,! ,,_w #bdh ,,*apt] ,,lviii ,,=ty ,,degrees ,,bel[ ,,z]o #beh ,,*apt] ,,lix ,,9 ,,! ,,sn[ #bfg ,,*apt] ,,lx ,,dea? ,,( ,,! ,,la/ ,,vet]an #bgb ,,*apt] ,,lxi ,,?irty ,,days ,,( ,,/orm #bhb ,,*apt] ,,lxii ,,adv5tures ,,( ,,ourselves ,,& ,,puppy ,,9 ,,nagrong #bib ,,*apt] ,,lxiii ,,?r\gh ,,! ,,highl&s ,,( ,,bongba #cjb ,,*apt] ,,lxiv ,,tsongpun ,,ta%i #cac ,,*apt] ,,lxv ,,buptsang-,,tsangpo1 ,,"o ,,( ,,! ,,l>ge/ ,,riv]s ,,( ,,! ,,he>t ,,( ,,tibet #cba ,,*apt] ,,lxvi ,,9 ,,! ,,robb]s' ,,p>adise #ccb ,,*apt] ,,lxvii ,,april #bd #cdc ,,*apt] ,,lxviii ,,8 ,,excell5cy ,,! ,,gov]nor ,,( ,,saka #cec ,,*apt] ,,lxix ,,kamba ,,ts5am1 ,,fa!r ,,( ,,! ,,robb]s #cfd ,,*apt] ,,lxx ,,! ,,sev5? ,,cross+ ,,( ,,! ,,trans-,,himalaya--,,to ,,! ,,heav5ly ,,lake ,,( ,,! ,,?rone ,,m\nta9 #cgd ,,*apt] ,,lxxi ,,ano!r ,,j\rney ,,across ,,! ,,:ite ,,pat* #che ,,*apt] ,,lxxii ,,! ,,la/ ,,days ,,9 ,,unkn[n ,,c\ntry #cie ,,*apt] ,,lxxiii ,,! ,,trans-,,himalaya #dja ,,*apt] ,,lxxiv ,,simla #dae ,,index #dbe ,,illu/rations ,,page #ahi4 ,sv5 ,h$9 ,frontispiece #aij4 ,h]mit's ,grotto ne> ! ,*ang-la-,pod-la #ab #aia4 ,rob]t & ,rabsang by ! ,ice on ! ,way to ! ,*ang-la-,pod-la #ah #aib4 ,a ,lhadse deck$ ) ,mani-,/ones & ,pray]-,/ream]s #ah #aic1 #aid4 ,nomads s\? ( ,t>go-gangri #bd #aie4 ,m5dicant ,lama bl[+ on a ,human ,bone #bd #aif4 ,tibetan ,boy #bd #aig4 ,kubi-gangri f ,camp #bja #bf #aih4 ,t>go-gangri f a ,hill ne> ,camp #aej #bf #aii4 ,! ,*omo-u*ong ,gr\p f ! ,k9*5-la1 ,may #bc1 #aijg #bf #bjj4 ,lundup's ,squadron4 ,to ! left a "p ( ,t>go-gangri1 ,camp #aej #bh #bja4 ,lundup 7on horseback to ! left7 & 8 ,ret9ue prev5t me f proce$+ to ! ,dangra-yum-tso #cj #bjb1 #bjc1 #bjd4 ,t>go-gangri f ! ,s\? #cb #bje4 ,! ,%uru-tso1 ) ,t>go-gangri 9 ! ,backgr\nd #cd #bjf4 ,on ! ,upp] ,raga-tsangpo #cf #bjg4 ,angd5-la #cf #bjh4 ,*omo-u*ong f ! ea/ #cf #bji1 #baj4 ,angd5-la1 a ,pass on ! ,trans-,himalaya #ch #baa4 ,manis on ! ,way to ! ,angd5-la #dj #bab4 ,*omo-u*ong f ,lamlung-la #dd #bac4 ,panorama f ! ,ta-la4 ,! ,brahmaputra ,valley & ! ,himalayas 9 ! ,backgr\nd #dd #bad4 ,begg> at ,ta%i-gembe #ej #bae4 ,"y ,tibetan at ! ,m\? ( ! ,*aktak-tsangpo #ej #baf4 ,w&]+ ,lama ) a ,wood5 ,glove 9 8 ,h&1 su* z is us$ to protect ! ,h&s 9 ! ,pro/ration ,pilgrimage r\nd ! ,holy ,m\nta9 ,kailas #ej #bag4 ,! ,corpse ( ,muham$ ,isa #ed #bah4 ,muham$ ,isa's ,fun]al ,procession #ef #bai1 #bbj1 #bba4 ,! ,int]m5t ( ,muham$ ,isa #eh #bbb4 ,woman at ! ,m\? ( ! ,*aktak-tsangpo 9 ! ,tsangpo #fd #bbc4 ,tibetan ( ,saka #fd #bbd4 ,lama 9 ,saka-dzong #fd #bbe1 #bbf1 #bbg1 #bbh4 ,tibetan ,boys & ,girls ( ,saka & ,tradum #gj #bbi4 ,woman ( ,nyuku #gd #bcj4 ,two ,tibetans #gd #bca4 ,! ,gova ( ,tuksum #gd #bcb4 ,girl at ,pasa-guk #gd #bcc4 ,view f ! ,kore-la t[>ds ! s\?-we/ #gh #bcd4 ,gulam ,razul's ,t5ts 9 ,g>tok #hb #bce4 ,l&scape 9 ,upp] ,nepal #hb #bcf4 ,a ,*hort5 9 ,nepal #hd #bcg4 ,gr\p ( ,tibetan ,wom5 #hd #bch4 ,wom5 9 ! ,village ( ,namla #hh #bci4 ,inhabitants ( ! ,village ( ,namla #hh #bdj4 ,lama 9 my ,boat #ib #bda4 ,load+ ! ,boat ) ,boxes on cross+ ! ,brahmaputra #ib #bdb4 ,panorama ( ,kubi-gangri & ! ,langta-*5 ,glaci]1 ) ! ,s\rce ( ! ,brahmaputra 7f a height ( #af1dec feet1 ,july #ac1 #aijg7 #ajb #bdc1 #bdd1 #bde4 ,! ,m\nta9s at ! ,s\rce ( ! ,brahmaputra #ajf #bdf4 ,tibetans on ! ,bank ( ! ,soma-tsangpo #aaj #bdg4 ,gr\p ( ,natives ( ,langm> #aaj #bdh4 ,rob]t 9 ! ,boat #aah #bdi4 ,%eep-%e>+ at ,tugu-gompa on ,manas>[> #abd #bej4 ,! ,god ( ! ,lake ris+ f ,tso-mavang #acj #bea4 ,temple ,hall ( ! ,lake-,god ( ,tso-mavang #acd #beb4 ,*5resi's ,image 9 ,tugu-gompa #acd #bec4 ,! ,lhakang ,hall 9 ,tugu-gompa #ach #bed4 ,lama ) ,pray]-,drum #adj #bee4 ,lama be=e ! ,temple ,door 9 ,tugu-gompa #adj #bef4 ,yanggo-gompa #adf #beg4 ,int]ior ( ! ,temple1 ,tugu #adf #beh4 ,a ,dream]4 ,lama 9 ,yanggo-gompa on ,manas>[> #adh #bei4 ,! old ,nun 9 ,yanggo-gompa #aej #bfj4 ,! ,holy ,lake ,manas>[> f ,tugu-gompa1 ) ,kailas 9 ! ,backgr\nd ,col\r$ #aeb #bfa4 ,boy on ! ,upp] ,tsangpo #afb #bfb4 ,! "y ,prior ( ,langbo-nan #afb #bfc4 ,temple ,vessels 9 ,*iu-gompa #aff #bfd4 ,two ,*ildr5 9 ,%igatse #aff #bfe4 ,kailas beh9d ,ny&i-gompa #agj #bff4 ,my ,pack-,%eep #agj #bfg4 ,"p ( ,kailas #agd #bfh4 ,kailas f ,diri-pu #ahb #bfi4 ,conflu5ce ( ! ,two ,arms ( ! ,indus #ahb #bgj4 ,tibetan ,female ,pilgrims at ,kailas #ahh #bga4 ,! ,gova by ^: help ! ,s\rce ( ! ,indus 0 discov]$ 7seat$7 & ,tibetans at ,kailas #aid #bgb4 ,gulam ,razul beside ,bales ( ,*9ese ,brick-,tea #aih #bgc4 ,tibetan ,t5t #bjb #bgd4 ,mona/]y ( ,g>-gunsa #bjb #bge4 ,images at ,*u%ut #bjb #bgf4 ,! ,policem5 f ,simla #bjf #bgg4 ,my ,boat on ! ,indus #bjf #bgh4 ,ladaki ,wom5 #bjf #bgi1 #bhj1 #bha4 ,at ! ,mona/]y ,door 9 ,ta%i-gang betwe5 ,g>tok & ,ladak #baj #bhb4 ,danc+ ,wom5 9 ,*u%ut1 a ,village on my ,way back to ,ladak #bab #bhc4 ,old ,woman #baf #bhd4 ,lama 9 ,*u%ut #baf #bhe4 ,on ! ,way to ,tankse #bbj #bhf4 ,9 ! ,indus ,valley on ! ,way to ,ladak #bbj #bhg4 ,! new ,horses & ,mules at ,drugub #bbj #bhh4 ,rob]t 9 ,w9t] ,dress #bbd #bhi4 ,abdul ,k]im1 ! new ,c>avan ,lead] #bbf #bij1 #bia1 #bib4 ,lobsang1 ,gulam1 ,kutus--my la/ tru/y ,foll[]s #bbh #bic4 ,begg>s #bcj #bid4 ,abdul ,k]im's new ,t5t #bcj #bie4 ,my ,br[n ,puppy ) my ,cook1 ,ts]+ #bcd #bif1 #big1 #bih4 ,my ,:ite ,ladaki ,horse #bcd #bii4 ,panorama f ,camp #dbb1 ,bongba #bch #cjj4 ,panorama f ,camp #bgg1 ,%yok ,valley #bch #cja4 ,view f ,camp #cjg ,col\r$ #beh #cjb4 ,! small salt ,lake s\? ( ,camp #cji ,col\r$ #beh #cjc4 ,horses go+ to dr9k at ! ,lake ne> ,camp #caj4 ,abdul ,k]im on ! left ,col\r$ #beh #cjd4 ,m\nta9 nor?-ea/ ( ,camp #caj2 ! fre%wat] ,lake 9 ! ,=egr\nd ,col\r$ #beh #cje4 ,/orm ,cl\ds ov] ! ,sn[y ,m\nta9s s\? ( ,camp #cab ,col\r$ #beh #cjf4 ,camp #cjg #bfb #cjg4 ,camp #ccc4 ,! ,beg9n+ ( a ,/orm #bfb #cjh4 ,camp #cce4 ,lem*ung-tso1 look+ ea/ #bfb #cji4 ,camp #dja4 ,kan*ung-gangri f ! nor? #bfb #caj4 ,my ,dy+ ,pony #bfd #caa4 ,lo/ beyond ,recov]y #bfh #cab4 ,if ?is cont9ues a few days long]1 we are lo/ #bgj #cac1 #cad1 #cae1 #caf1 #cag4 ,panoramas f ! ,camps #cah1 #ccc1 #cce1 #cei1 #cfj2 9 ! la/ two1 ,%a-kang%am #bhd #cah4 ,! ,au?or z a ,%eph]d #bih #cai1 #cbj1 #cba4 ,! ,summits ( ,lunpo-gangri f ,camps #cgi1 #cha1 & #chc #cbf #cbb4 ,wre/l+ #ccb #cbc4 ,two ,guides #ccb #cbd4 ,boy ) ,hat #ccb #cbe4 ,%eph]d ,boy #ccb #cbf4 ,sonam ,ngurbu1 ,*ief ( ! ,*ok*u ,prov9ce #ccd #cbg4 ,dor*e ,tsu51 ,gov]nor ( ! ,saka ,prov9ce #ccd #cbh4 ,man ) a s+ul> ,cap1 9 ,sonam ,ngurbu's ,escort #ccd #cbi4 ,tagla ,ts]+1 ! ,*ief :o refus$ to let me g to ! ,dangra-yum-tso #ccd #ccj4 ,travell+ ,ladaki ,m]*ant 9 ,we/ ,tibet #cdj #cca4 ,oang ,gye1 ,son ( ! ,gov]nor ( ,saka #cdj #ccb4 ,pan*or1 ! ,yak-slay]1 my ,guide on ! ,j\rney to ! ,t]i-nam-tso #cdj #ccc4 ,woman ( ,yumba-mats5 #cdj #ccd4 ,tibetans ) ,yaks #cdd #cce4 ,dor*e ,tsu5 on ! ,m>* #cdd #ccf4 ,f>ewell ,ent]ta9m5t = ! ,tibetans on ,may #e1 #aijh #cdh #ccg1 #cch1 #cci1 #cdj4 ,! ,danc]s at ! ,camp-fire3 ,tubges1 ,kun*uk1 ,su5 #cej #cda4 ,inn] ,c\rt ( ,selipuk #ced #cdb4 ,dor*e ,tsu5 & ,ngavang on ,horseback #ced #cdc4 ,! ,au?or 9 ,tibetan ,dress #ceh #cdd1 #cde4 ,soldi]s ( ! ,g>rison ( ,saka-dzong1 belong+ to our ,escort #cfj #cdf4 ,arm$ ,tibetan f ! ,c\ntry betwe5 ! ,t]i-nam-tso & ! ,dangra-yum-tso #cfj #cdg4 ,boy ) small ,gun on ! s\!rn ,%ore ( ! ,t]i-nam-tso #cfj #cdh4 ,troop] ( ! ,escort #cfd #cdi4 ,tibetan ( ,t]i-nam-tso #cfd #cej4 ,"y ,%eph]d ( ,bongba #cfd #cea4 ,gue/s at ! ,op5+ ( my ,t5t on ! ,bank ( ! ,t]i-nam-tso #cff #ceb4 ,! ,yaks =d+ ! ,riv] ,soma-tsangpo #cff #cec4 ,nima ,ta%i1 ,comm&] ( ! ,gov]nm5t ,escort on ! way to ! ,t]i-nam-tso ,col\r$ #cfh #ced4 ,nuns ( ,m5dong ,col\r$ #cfh #cee4 ,a ,high ,lama ( ,*ok*u ,col\r$ #cfh #cef4 ,! ,prior ( ,selipuk ,col\r$ #cfh #ceg4 ,two ,lamas ( ,m5dong #cgj #ceh4 ,my ,%eep cross+ ! ,riv] ,soma-tsangpo #cgj #cei4 ,village bel[ ,lunk>-gompa on ! ,t>ok-tso ,col\r$ #cgd #cfj4 ,m5dong ,mona/]y we/ ( ! ,t]i-nam-tso ,col\r$ #cgd #cfa4 ,selipuk ,mona/]y s\?-we/ ( ! ,ngangl>+-tso ,col\r$ #cgd #cfb4 ,holiday ,co/umes & ,ornam5ts ( ,tibetan ,wom5 ( ,kyangrang 9 ! ,trans-,himalaya ,col\r$ #cgd #cfc4 ,cross+ ! ,kang%am ,riv] #cgf #cfd4 ,! ,village ( ,lunk> #cgh #cfe4 ,gr\p ( ,tibetans at ! ,t]i-nam-tso #cgh #cff4 ,! ,village ( ,lunk> f ! ,temple ,hill #chb #cfg4 ,! s\!rn ,%ore ( ,manas>[> ) graz+ ,yaks #chb #cfh4 ,lunk>-gompa #chf #cfi4 ,selipuk-gompa #chf #cgj4 ,! ,trans-,himalaya f ,abuk-la #chh #cga4 ,/orm ov] ! ,trans-,himalaya #chh #cgb4 ,sonam ,ngurbu & 8 ,foll[]s on ,horseback #cib #cgc4 ,"s ( our ,horses on ! ,way to ,kamba ,ts5am's ,t5t #cib #cgd4 ,lama ( ,*ok*u tak+ leave ( ! ,prior ( ,selipuk #cif #cge4 ,lama ( ,*ok*u on ,horseback #cif #cgf1 #cgg4 ,boys sitt+ #cih #cgh4 ,"y ,lama #cih #cgi4 ,old ,woman #cih #chj4 ,colonel ,t4 ,g4 ,montgom]ie #djd #cha4 ,abb ,huc #djd #chb4 ,alt> ,table ) ,images ( ,gods 9 ,mangnang-gompa ,col\r$ #djf #chc4 ,! ,au?or 9 ,tibetan ,co/ume at ! ,mission ,/ation 9 ,poo #djh #chd4 ,! la/ ,memb]s ( ! la/ ,exp$ition 9 ,poo #dab #che4 ,my ,puppy #daf #chf4 ,takk> 9 8 new ,home ) ! ,mission>ies 9 ,poo #daf #chg4 ,simla #dah #chh4 ,! la/ ,memb]s ( ! ,exp$ition at ! ,entrance ( ! ,vic]egal ,lodge 9 ,simla #dbj ,,maps #h4 ,! ,s\rces ( ! ,brahmaputra1 ,sutlej1 & ,indus4 #i4 ,a ,map ( ! ,trans-,himalaya by ,dr4 ,sv5 ,h$94 #aj4 ,a ,map ( ,tibet %[+ ,dr4 ,sv5 ,h$9's ,r\tes #aijf-aijh4 7,at end ( ,volume47 ,,*apt] ,,xxxv ,,immur$ ,,monks ,we _h he>d ( a lama :o _h liv$ = ! la/ ?ree ye>s 9 a cave 9 ! valley above ! mona/]y ( ,l+a1 & ?\gh ,i knew t ,i %\ld n be all[$ to see ei!r ! monk or ! int]ior ( 8 gha/ly dwell+1 ,i w\ld n miss ! opportunity ( at lea/ ga9+ "s slight notion ( h[ he 0 h\s$4 ,on ,april #af1 #aijg1 eighte5 mon?s to a day aft] ,i _h left ,/ockholm1 dre>y w9dy wea!r prevail$1 ) ?ickly fall+ sn[ & d5se cl\ds4 ,we rode up to ,l+a1 pa/ r[s ( f9e *hort5s1 left ! la/ dormitories beh9d u1 saw an old tree-trunk pa9t$ :ite & r$1 pass$ a small pool ) cry/al-cle> spr+ wat] ?9ly froz5 ov]1 & heaps ( mani /ones ) /ream] poles1 & !n arriv$ at ! small conv5t ,samde-puk1 built on ! v po9t ( a spur betwe5 two side valleys4 ,x is affiliat$ to ! ,l+a mona/]y1 & has only f\r bre?r51 :o all came to greet me he>tily at ! entrance4 ,x is a m9iature copy1 outw>dly & inw>dly1 ( ^? we h se5 be=e4 ,! dukang has only ?ree pill>s & "o divan = ! f\r monks1 :o read ! mass toge!r1 n9e pray]-cyl9d]s ( m$ium size :i* are set 9 motion by lea!rn /raps1 a drum & a gong1 two masks ) diadems ( skulls1 & a r[ ( idols1 among :i* may be recogniz$ sev]al copies ( ,*5resi & ,sekiya ,kongma1 ! *ief abbot ( ,sekiya4 ,a few /eps to ! s\?-we/ we pass$ ov] a %eet ( s*i/ ) two /one huts at its foot conta9+ bru%wood & twigs = burn+4 ,9 ,samde-pu-pe 7 two small temples ) alt>s ( mud4 ,9 "o ( !m 7 idols ( m$ium size & sea %ells1 & be=e !m inc5se sm\ld]$1 n 9 ! usual =m ( /icks1 b 9 p[d]4 ,x 0 /rewn 9 a zigzag l9e1 0 light$ at "o end1 & all[$ to sm\ld] away to ! o!r4 ,)9 0 a /atue ( ,lovun ) two lights be=e x1 & a %elf ) writ+s call$ ,*na4 ,ra9 wat] _h p]colat$ 9 & =m$ :ite v]tical *annels 9 ! pla/]1 & "u ! ceil+ kadakhs & drap]ies flutt]$ 9 ! draught4 ,"h ! mice 7 less di/urb$ ?an 9 ! gho/ly ca/le ,pesu4 ,close at h& at ! foot ( ! m\nta9 is ! h]mitage1 dupkang1 9 :i* a h]mit sp5ds 8 days & ye>s4 ,x is built ov] a spr+ :i* bubbles up 9 ! c5tre ( ! s+le room1 a squ>e ap>tm5t ) ea* side five paces long4 ,! walls are v ?ick1 & are 9 "o solid mass1 unbrok5 by w9d[s4 ,! doorway is v l[1 & ! wood5 door is %ut & lock$2 b t is n en\gh1 s a wall ( l>ge blocks & small] /ones has be5 built be=e ! door1 & ev5 ! smalle/ int]/ices betwe5 !m h be5 c>efully fill$ up ) pebbles4 ,n an in* ( ! door c be se54 ,b beside ! entrance is a t9y tunnel ?r\gh :i* ! h]mit's food c be pu%$ 94 ,! am\nt ( daylight :i* c p5etrate ?r\gh ! long n>r[ loophole mu/ be v small2 & x does n %9e 9 direct1 = ! front ( ! hut is %ut 9 by a wall1 =m+ a small c\rt1 :i* only ! monk :o br+s ! an*orite 8 daily ration may ent]4 ,a small *imney rises f ! flat ro(1 = ! h]mit may make himself tea e six? day1 & = ?is purpose "s /icks ( firewood are pu%$ ?r\gh ! loophole twice 9 ! mon?4 ,?r\gh ! *imney1 too1 a feeble light may fall1 & by means ( ^! two v5ts ! air is r5ew$ 9 ! cell4 ,:at is ! "n ( ! lama :o is n[ wall$ up 9 ?is cell8 ,i ask$4 ,he has no "n1 & ev5 if we knew x we dur/ n utt] x4 ,we call him m]ely ! ,lama ,r9po*e 7accord+ to ,kpp51 lama means quo nemo e/ sup]ior1 "o :o has no "o ov] him2 & ,r9po*e means gem1 jewel1 hol9ess74 ,:]e has he come f8 ,he 0 born 9 ,ngor 9 ,naktsang4 ,has he relations8 ,t we d n "k2 & if he has any1 !y d n "k t he is "h4 ,h[ long has he liv$ 9 ! d>kness8 ,x is n[ ?ree ye>s s9ce he w5t 94 ,& h[ long w he rema9 !re8 ,until he dies4 ,may he nev] come out aga9 into ! daylight be=e 8 dea?8 ,no2 he has tak5 ! /ricte/ ( all oa?s1 namely1 ! sacr$ v[ only to leave ! cell z a corpse4 ,h[ old is he8 ,we d n "k 8 age1 b he look$ ab\t =ty4 ,b :at happ5s if he is ill8 ,_c he get help8 ,no2 he may nev] speak to ano!r human be+4 ,if he falls ill he mu/ wait pati5tly till he is bett] aga9 or dies4 ,y nev] "k1 !n1 h[ he is8 ,n be=e 8 dea?4 ,a b[l ( tsamba is pu%$ e day into ! op5+1 & a piece ( tea & a piece ( butt] e six? day2 ?is he takes at night1 & puts back ! empty b[l to be fill$ = ! next meal4 ,:5 we f9d ! b[l unt\*$ 9 ! op5+ we "k t ! immur$ man is unwell4 ,if he has n t\*$ ! tsamba ! next day our fe>s increase2 & if six days pass & ! food is n tak51 we conclude he is dead & break op5 ! entrance4 ,has t ev] happ5$8 ,yes2 ?ree ye>s ago a lama di$1 :o _h sp5t twelve ye>s 9 !re1 & fifte5 ye>s ago "o di$ :o _h liv$ =ty ye>s 9 solitude & ent]$ ! d>kness at ! age ( tw5ty4 ,no d\bt ! ,bombo has he>d 9 ,tong ( ! lama :o liv$ 9 ! h]mitage ( ! mona/]y ,lung-g&5-gompa = sixty-n9e ye>s1 completely %ut (f f ! _w & ! light ( day4 ,b is x n possible t ! prison] may speak to ! monk :o pu%es ! tsamba di% into ! loophole8 ,!re is no witness pres5t to see t all is correct4 ,t c\ld nev] happ5 & is n all[$1 answ]$ my in=mant ) a smile2 = ! monk outside w\ld be et]nally damn$ 7 he to set 8 m\? to ! loophole & try to talk to ! recluse1 & ! latt] w\ld break ! *>m if he spoke f )94 ,if ! man 9 !re 7 to speak n[1 ! ?ree ye>s he has pass$ !re already w\ld n be put d[n to 8 cr$it1 & he w\ld n l t4 ,if1 h[ev]1 a lama 9 ,l+a or ,samde-puk falls ill1 he may write 8 compla9t & a reque/ = ! an*orite's int]cession on a piece ( pap]1 :i* is plac$ 9 ! tsamba b[l & pu%$ into ! op5+4 ,!n ! recluse prays = ! sick man1 & if ! latt] has fai? 9 ! p[] ( pray]1 & holds no unseemly conv]sation 9 ! meantime1 ! int]cession ( ! ,lama ,r9po*e takes effect aft] two days & ! pati5t gets well aga94 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! recluse nev] makes any communication 9 writ+4 ,we are n[ only a c\ple ( paces f him4 ,does he n he> :at we are say+1 or1 at lea/1 t "s "o is talk+ outside 8 d58 ,no1 ! s\nd ( our voices _c rea* him1 ! walls are too ?ick2 & ev5 if x 7 ! case1 he w\ld n notice x1 = he is buri$ 9 contemplation4 ,he no long] belongs to ?is _w2 he probably cr\*es day & night 9 a corn]1 repeat+ pray]s he kn[s by he>t1 or read+ 9 ! holy books he has ) him4 ,!n he mu/ h en\gh light to read by8 ,yes1 a small butt] lamp /&s on a %elf be=e two images1 & its light suffices him4 ,:5 ! lamp goes out x is pit*-d>k inside4 ,fill$ ) /range ?\ghts1 ,i took leave ( ! monk & w5t sl[ly d[n ! pa? :i* ! recluse _h only pass$ along once 9 8 life4 ,be=e u 0 ! spl5did view :i* might nev] delight 8 eyes4 ,:5 ,i _h desc5d$ to ! camp ,i c\ld n look up ! mona/]y valley )\t ?9k+ ( ! un=tunate man sitt+ up !re 9 8 d>k hole4 ,poor1 nameless1 unkn[n to any "o1 he came to ,l+a1 :]e1 he _h he>d1 a cave-dwell+ /ood vacant1 & in=m$ ! monks t he _h tak5 ! v[ to ent] = ev] into d>kness4 ,:5 8 la/ day 9 ?is _w ( vanity dawn$1 all ! monks ( ,l+a foll[$ him 9 deep sil5ce1 ) ! solemnity ( a fun]al1 to 8 grave 9 ! cave1 & ! door 0 clos$ on him = ! re/ ( 8 life4 ,i c\ld picture to myself ! rem>kable procession1 ! monks 9 _! r$ frocks1 sil5t & grave1 b5d+ _! bodies =w>d & turn+ _! eyes to ! gr\nd1 & walk+ sl[ly /ep by /ep z ?\gh !y w\ld let ! victim enjoy ! sun & light z long z possible4 ,7 !y inspir$ ) admiration ( 8 trem5d\s =titude1 comp>$ ) :i* ev]y?+ ,i c conceive1 ev5 dang]s infallibly lead+ to dea?1 seems to me insignificant8 ,=1 z f> z ,i c judge1 less =titude is requir$ :5 a h]o1 l ,hiros1 blockades ! entrance ( ,port ,ar?ur1 kn[+ t ! batt]ies above w annihilate him1 ?an to all[ oneself to be buri$ alive 9 ! d>kness = =ty or sixty ye>s4 ,9 ! =m] case ! suff]+ is %ort1 ! glory et]nal2 9 ! latt] ! victim is z unkn[n aft] dea? z 9 8 lifetime1 & ! torture is endless1 & c only be borne by a pati5ce ( :i* we c h no conception4 ,no d\bt ! monks escort$ him ) ! same t5d]ness & ! same sympa?y z ! prie/ feels :5 he att5ds a crim9al to execution4 ,b :at c h be5 8 own feel+s dur+ ?is la/ progress 9 ! _w4 ,we all h to pass along ?is road1 b we d n "k :54 ,b he knew1 & he knew t ! sun w\ld nev] aga9 %9e w>mly on 8 %\ld]s & w\ld nev] produce lights & %ad[s on ! heav5-kiss+ m\nta9s ar\nd ! grave t await$ him4 ,n[ !y h rea*$ _! de/9ation & ! door ( ! tomb /&s op54 ,!y ent] 91 spread a mat ( int]lac$ /rips ( clo? 9 a corn]1 set up ! images ( ! gods1 & lay ! holy books 9 _! place2 9 "o corn] !y place a wood5 frame l ^? g-c>ts 9 :i* infants le>n to walk1 & :i* he w n use till dea? comes ^u him4 ,!y take _! seats & recite pray]s1 n ! usual pray]s = ! dead1 b o!rs :i* deal ) ! glorifi$ light & life ( ,nirvana4 ,!y rise1 bid him f>ewell1 g out & close ! door4 ,n[ he is alone & w nev] he> ! s\nd ( a human voice except 8 own1 & :5 he says 8 pray]s no "o w be !re to he> him4 ,:at 7 8 ?\ghts :5 ! o!rs _h gone1 & ! %ort holl[ e*o _h di$ away ( ! noise he he>d :5 ! door 0 %ut = ! la/ "t1 only to be op5$ aga9 :5 he 0 a corpse8 ,p]haps some?+ l :at ,frd+ has express$ 9 8 v]se3 ,"h breaks ! s\l f e bond ,t fett]s to ?is life its p9ion2 ,"h />ts ! way to ! d>k beyond1 ,! l& ( et]nal oblivion4 ,he he>s ! bre?r5 roll+ ! heavy /ones to ! door ) lev]s1 pil+ !m up "o on ano!r 9 sev]al lay]s1 & fill+ up all *9ks ) small] /ones & fragm5ts4 ,x is n yet q d>k1 = !re are crevices 9 ! door1 & daylight is /ill visible at ! upp] edge4 ,b ! wall rises4 ,at l5g? !re is only a t9y op5+ ?r\gh :i* ! la/ beam falls into ! int]ior ( 8 tomb4 ,does he become desp]ate2 does he jump up1 ?ru/ 8 h&s aga9/ ! door & try to cat* "o m glimpse ( ! sun1 :i* 9 ano!r mom5t w vani% f 8 sight = ev]8 ,no "o kn[s & no "o w ev] "k2 n ev5 ! monks :o 7 pres5t & help$ to block up ! entrance c answ] ?is "q4 ,b he is b a man & he saw h[ a flag/one 0 fitt$ ov] ! hole ?r\gh :i* a la/ ray ( daylight fell2 & n[ he has d>kness be=e him1 & :]ev] he turns !re is imp5etrable d>kness4 ,he assumes t ! o!r monks h gone d[n aga9 to ,samde-puk & ,l+a4 ,h[ %all he pass ! ev5+4 ,he ne$ n beg9 at once to read 8 holy books2 !re is pl5ty ( "t = t1 p]haps =ty ye>s4 ,he sits on ! mat & leans 8 head aga9/ ! wall4 ,n[ all 8 rem9isc5ces come ) great di/9ctness into 8 m9d4 ,he rememb]s ! gigantic *>act]s 9 ! qu>tzite1 ,om mani padme hum1 & he murmurs half dream+ ! holy syllables1 ,oh6 ?\ jewel 9 ! lotus4 ,am56 ,b only a feeble e*o answ]s him4 ,he waits & li/5s1 & !n he>k5s to ! voices ( 8 memory4 ,he wond]s :e!r ! fir/ night is fall+1 b x _c be d>k] ?an x is already 9 8 prison1 8 grave4 ,ov]come by ! travail ( 8 s\l1 he sleeps1 tir$ & we>y1 9 8 corn]4 ,:5 he awakes1 he feels hungry1 crawls to ! op5+ & f9ds ! b[l ( tsamba 9 ! tunnel4 ,) wat] f ! spr+ he prep>es 8 meal1 eats x1 &1 :5 he has f9i%$1 puts ! b[l 9 ! loophole aga94 ,!n he sits cross-legg$1 8 ros>y 9 8 h&s1 & prays4 ,"o day he f9ds tea & butt] 9 ! b[l & "s /icks beside x4 ,he feels ab\t ) 8 h&s & f9ds ! fl9t1 & /eel1 & ! t9d]1 & k9dles a small fire "u ! tea-c4 ,by ! light ( ! flame he sees ! int]ior ( 8 d5 aga91 lights ! lamp be=e ! images1 & beg9s to read 8 books2 b ! fire goes out & six days mu/ pass be=e he gets tea aga94 ,! days pass & n[ comes autumn ) its heavy ra9s2 he he>s !m n1 b ! walls ( 8 d5 seem to be moi/] ?an usual4 ,x seems to him a long "t s9ce he saw ! sun & ! daylight = ! la/ "t4 ,& ye>s slip by & 8 memory gr[s weak & hazy4 ,he has read ! books he br\ght ) him aga9 & aga91 & he c>es no m = !m2 he cr\*es 9 8 corn] & murmurs _! cont5ts1 :i* he has long kn[n by he>t4 ,he lets ! beads ( 8 ros>y slip ?r\gh 8 f+]s me*anically1 & /ret*es out 8 h& = ! tsamba b[l unconsci\sly4 ,he crawls along ! walls feel+ ! cold /ones ) 8 h&s1 if haply he may f9d a *9k ?r\gh :i* a ray ( light c pass4 ,no1 he h>dly kn[s n[ :at x is l outside on sunny pa?s4 ,h[ sl[ly "t passes6 ,only 9 sleep does he =get 8 exi/5ce & escape f ! hopelessness ( ! pres5t4 ,& he ?9ks3 ,:at is a %ort e>?ly life 9 d>kness comp>$ to ! glori\s light ( et]nity8 ,! soj\rn 9 d>kness is only a prep>ation4 ,?r\gh days & nights & long ye>s ( solitude ! pond]+ monk seeks ! answ] to ! riddle ( life & ! riddle ( dea?1 & cl+s to ! belief t he w live aga9 9 a glorifi$ =m ( exi/5ce :5 8 p]iod ( trial is ov]4 ,x is fai? alone :i* c expla9 8 inconceivable =titude ( m9d4 ,x is difficult to picture to oneself ! *anges ?r\gh :i* ! lama passes dur+ successive decades 9 ! d>kness ( 8 cell4 ,8 sight mu/ become weak1 p]haps be ext+ui%$ altoge!r4 ,8 muscles %r9k1 8 s5ses become m & m cl\d$4 ,long+ = ! light _c pursue him z a fix$ idea1 = x is 9 8 p[] to write d[n 8 decision to curtail 8 "t ( trial1 & return to ! light1 on "o ( ! leaves ( 8 books ) a spl9t] dipp$ 9 soot4 ,he has only to place su* a pap] 9 ! empty tsamba b[l4 ,b ! monks _h nev] kn[n a case ( ! k9d4 ,!y only knew t ! lama :o _h be5 wall$ 9 = sixty-n9e ye>s _h wi%$ to see ! sun aga9 be=e he di$4 ,i _h he>d f monks :o 7 9 ,tong at ! "t t he _h writt5 d[n 8 wi% to be let out4 ,he 0 all b5t up toge!r & z small z a *ild1 & 8 body 0 no?+ b a light-grey p>*m5t-l sk9 & bones4 ,8 eyes _h lo/ _! col\r1 7 q bright & bl9d4 ,8 hair hung r\nd 8 head 9 uncomb$ matt$ locks & 0 pure :ite4 ,8 body 0 cov]$ only by a rag1 = "t _h eat5 away 8 clo?+ & he _h receiv$ no new g>m5ts4 ,he _h a ?9 unkempt be>d1 & _h nev] wa%$ himself all ! "t or cut 8 nails4 ,( ! monks :o sixty-n9e ye>s be=e _h conduct$ him to 8 cell1 n "o surviv$4 ,he 0 !n q "y himself1 b all 8 contempor>ies _h be5 remov$ by dea?1 & new g5]ations ( monks _h pass$ ?r\gh ! cloi/]s2 he 0 a complete /rang] to !m all4 ,& he _h sc>cely be5 c>ri$ out into ! sunlight :5 he too gave up ! gho/4 ,9 analys+ ! /ate ( su* a s\l1 fancy has free play1 = we "k no?+ ab\t x4 ,waddell & ,l&on1 :o took "p 9 ,y\nghusb&'s exp$ition to ,lhasa1 & visit$ ! h]mits' caves at ,nyang-t-ki-pu1 say t ! monks :o h !re retir$ into p]petual d>kness fir/ und]w5t %ort] exp]i5ces ( isolation1 ! fir/ la/+ six mon?s1 & ! second ?ree ye>s & n9ety-?ree days1 & t ^? :o _h pass$ ?r\gh ! second p]iod ( trial %[$ signs t !y 7 intellectually inf]ior to o!r monks4 ,! cases :i* ! two ,engli%m5 h describ$ seem n to h be5 s sev]e a trial z ! "o ,i saw & he>d ab\t 9 ,l+a1 = 9 ! ,nyang-t-ki-pu caves ! lama :o wait$ on ! recluse tapp$ on a /one slab :i* clos$ ! small op5+1 & at ?is signal ! immur$ lama put 8 h& out ( ?is door = 8 food2 he imm$iately drew ! /one %utt] to aga91 b 9 ?is way he w\ld at lea/ see ! light ( ! sun = a mom5t e day4 ,9 ! cases describ$ by ,waddell & ,l&on ! immur$ monks _h pass$ "s tw5ty ye>s 9 conf9em5t4 ,waddell1 :o has a ?or\gh k ( ,lamaism1 believes t ! cu/om ( seclusion = life is only an imitation ( ! practice ( pure ,indian ,buddhism1 :i* enjo9s p]iodical retreats f ! _w = ! purpose ( self-exam9ation & ( acquir+ great] cle>ness 9 ab/ruse que/ions4 ,9 8 op9ion ! ,tibetans h made an end ( ! means4 ,und\bt$ly ?is op9ion is correct1 b x is n exhau/ive4 ,x may be t ! future h]mit has 9 religi\s delusion come to ! decision to all[ himself to be buri$ alive4 ,b does he cle>ly conceive :at ?is means8 ,if he became dull & ins5sible l an animal 9 8 cell1 all 8 en]gy & 8 p[] ( w w\ld be dead5$1 & :at seem$ to him1 :5 he ent]$1 to be wor? /riv+ =1 w\ld gradually become m & m indiff]5t to him4 ,b ?is is n ! case1 = he adh]es firmly to 8 decision1 & !re=e 8 en]gy mu/ rema9 unimpair$4 ,he mu/ possess a /eadfa/ fai?1 an immovable conviction1 :i* is expos$ to a h>d] trial because he is alone & dea? alone c visit him 9 8 cave4 ,possibly he becomes by degrees a victim ( self-delusion1 s t 8 long+ = ! la/ h\r 9 ! long night ( 8 d5 gives place to ! feel+ t he is always at ! mom5t :5 ! h\r-glass ( "t has run d[n4 ,he mu/ h lo/ all idea ( "t1 & ! d>kness ( ! grave appe>s to him only z a second 9 et]nity4 ,= ! means he =m]ly _h ( m>k+ ! flight ( "t & impress+ x on 8 memory no long] exi/4 ,! *anges f w9t] to summ]1 f day to night1 are only made kn[n to him by ! rise or fall ( ! temp]ature 9 8 d54 ,he rememb]s t sev]al ra9y seasons h pass$ by1 & p]haps !y seem to him to foll[ closely on "o ano!r :ile 8 bra9 is cl\d$ by monotony4 ,x is inconceivable t he does n become insane1 t he does n call out = ! light1 t he does n jump up & run 8 head aga9/ ! wall 9 ! agony ( despair1 or beat x aga9/ ! %>p edges ( ! /ones till he ble$s to dea? & frees himself by committ+ suicide4 ,b he waits pati5tly = dea?1 & dea? may delay its com+ = t5 or tw5ty ye>s4 ,8 remembrance ( ! _w & life outside 8 cell becomes fa9t] & fa9t]2 he has long =gott5 ! dawn 9 ! ea/ & ! gold5 cl\ds ( sunset2 & :5 he looks up 8 dimm$ eyes p]ceive no />s tw9kl+ 9 ! night1 only ! black ceil+ ( 8 cave4 ,at la/1 h[ev]1 aft] long ye>s h pass$ 9 ! d>kness1 sudd5ly a great brilliancy fla%es out--t is1 :5 ,dea? comes1 takes him by ! h&1 & leads him out4 ,& ,dea? has n to wait1 entreat1 & coax1 = ! lama has wait$ & long$ = 8 welcome & only gue/ & deliv]]4 ,if he has _h 8 m9d /ill cle>1 he has tak5 ! little wood5 /& "u 8 arms s t he may die 9 ! same sacr$ position 9 :i* ,buddha is repres5t$ 9 all ! ?\s&s ( /atues & pictures :i* h come "u our notice 9 our w&]+s ?r\gh ! cloi/] temples ( ,tibet4 ,:5 ! tsamba b[l1 :i* has be5 fill$ daily = s _m long ye>s1 rema9s at la/ unt\*$ & ! six days h expir$1 ! cave is op5$ & ! abbot ( ! mona/]y sits d[n beside ! deceas$ & prays = him1 :ile all ! o!r monks pray 9 ! dukang hall = five or six days toge!r4 ,!n ! body is wrapp$ 9 a :ite g>m5t1 a cov]+ call$ r+a is plac$ on 8 head1 & he is burn$ on a pyre4 ,! a%es are collect$1 knead$ toge!r ) clay1 & m\ld$ into a small pyramid1 :i* is deposit$ 9 a *hort54 ,! ,l+a monks said t an ord9>y lama1 :5 he dies1 is cut 9 pieces & ab&on$ to ! birds4 ,?is process is p]=m$ "h by five lamas1 :o1 ?\gh !y belong to ! mona/]y1 att5d ! s]vice 9 ! dukang1 & dr9k tea ) ! o!r monks1 are /ill consid]$ unclean1 & may n eat ) ! o!r bre?r54 ,also :5 nomads die 9 ! neighb\rhood1 _! s]vices are requir$1 b !n ! relatives are b\nd to provide !m ) horses & to und]take t ! prop]ty ( ! deceas$ %all pass into ! possession ( ! mona/]y4 ,= days & weeks ,i c\ld n drive away ! picture ,i _h =m$ 9 my m9d ( ! ,lama ,r9po*e1 be=e ^: cell we _h /ood & talk$4 ,& /ill less c\ld ,i =get 8 pr$ecessor1 :o _h liv$ !re =ty ye>s4 ,i fanci$ ,i c\ld he> ! con* :i* summon$ ! monks to ! fun]al mass ( ! dep>t$4 ,i pictur$ to myself ! sc5e 9 ! cave :]e ! lama1 cr\*+ 9 rags on ! floor1 /ret*es out 8 )]$ h&s to ,dea?1 :o1 k9dly smil+ l ! skull masks 9 ! temples1 gives him "o h& :ile he holds a brightly burn+ lamp 9 ! o!r4 ,! features ( ! monk are transfigur$ 9 a reflexion ( ,nirvana1 & =gett+ ! ,om mani padme hum t = t5s ( ye>s has rev]b]at$ f ! walls ( 8 d51 he raises1 z ! trumpet bla/s s\nd out f ! temple ro(1 a song ( victory1 :i* calls to m9d ! foll[+ /rophe f ! my?s ( ano!r p 7,fri?i('s ,saga1 ,blackley's translation73 ,hail1 ye deities bright6 ,ye ,valhalla sons6 ,e>? fade? away2 to ! heav5ly fea/ ,glad trumpets invite ,me1 & bless$ness cr[ns1 ,z fair1 z ) gold helm1 y\r ha/5+ gue/4 ,,*apt] ,,xxxvi ,,ov] ,,! ,,*ang-,,la-,,pod-,,la ,we _h /ay$ ?ree days ne> ! mona/]y ,l+a1 :5 we w5t on nor?-we/w>ds on ,april #ag up ! n>r[ ,my-*u valley1 9 :i* ! volume ( wat] 0 n[ consid]ably dim9i%$4 ,space does n p]mit me to describe 9 detail ?is wond]ful road & its wild beauty4 ,f ! expansion ( ! valley at ,l+a r\tes run ea/w>ds & we/w>ds into ! m\nta9s1 ) bran*es to num]\s villages1 ( :i* ,i not$ d[n ! names & approximate positions4 ,! traffic is n[ mu* less1 b /ill num]\s manis & o!r religi\s symbols /& beside ! solit>y pa?4 ,we ride along ! /eep slopes ( ! "r bank2 bel[ u ! riv] =ms rapids1 & ! way is dang]\s1 especially ) a horse t is n sure on its feet4 ,rob]t's small bay filly /umbl$ & fell1 s t ! rid] 0 ?r[n headlong to ! gr\nd4 ,_h he roll$ d[n ! slope he w\ld h be5 lo/2 b =tunately he fell t[>ds ! m\nta94 ,we encamp$ 9 ! village ,langm>1 consi/+ ( a few scatt]$ h\ses1 at ! entrance ( ! small side valley ,langm>-pu4 ,illu/ration3 #aij4 ,,h]mit',s ,,grotto ,,ne> ,,! ,,*ang-,,la-,,pod-,,la4 ,we /ill h hir$ horses1 & n[ yaks also1 & ! c>avan is divid$ into ! same deta*m5ts z be=e4 ,sonam ,ts]+ & ,guff>u comm& _! sections4 ,ts]+'s p>ty sets out la/ & is ! la/ to come to re/1 & ,muham$ ,isa sup]vises ! :ole4 ,9 ! ev5+ he is massag$ by two m5 select$ = ! purpose1 ( :om ,rehim ,ali is "o4 ,!re is /ill *ang1 ! h>mless1 b /ill intoxicat+1 be]4 ,among ! s+]s at ! camp-fires1 ,ts]+1 z usual1 des]ves ! fir/ prize4 ,he gives me no end ( amusem5t2 he s+s l a c[1 or at be/ l a bur/ temple drum4 ,8 voice cracks cont9ually1 & he loses ! "t & ! melody )\t be+ ! lea/ put out4 ,b he consid]s 8 s++ v f9e1 & ! o!rs take pleasure 9 x2 "o c tell f a di/ance t ! te>s are com+ into 8 eyes4 ,sometimes he pauses to expla9 ! subject ( ! ballad & take a dr9k1 & !n he goes on aga94 ,:5 all ! o!rs are asleep1 & all is s quiet 9 ! camp t ! ru%+ ( ! /ream is audible & f "t to "t ! b>k ( a dog1 ,ts]+'s r\gh voice trill+ h>%ly /ill res\nds among ! m\nta9s4 ,next day we draw ne> to ! ma9 cre/ ( ! ,trans-,himalaya1 = to my great surprise & delight we h be5 conduct$ 9 ?is direction4 ,granite /ill pr$om9ates1 & 9 x erosion has excavat$ ! wild =ms ( ! valleys2 ! way is tol]ably good1 b v /ony2 small /rips ( ice lie along bo? banks ( ! /ream1 )9 :i* ! bright gre5 wat] fills ! valley ) ! ro> ( its impetuosity4 ,! d>k gre5 ( a k9d ( junip] call$ pama is a relief to ! eyes1 :i* o!rwise p]ceive no?+ b grey slopes ( detritus4 ,! riv] "h is nam$ ,langm>-tsangpo1 b x is really only ! upp] c\rse ( ! ,my-*u4 ,x is =m$ by ! ,ke-tsangpo com+ f ! nor? & ! ,govo-tsangpo f ! we/4 ,! =m]1 call$ 9 its upp] c\rse ,ogorung-tsangpo1 desc5ds f ! ma9 wat]%$ ( ! ,trans-,himalaya1 & mu/ !re=e be consid]$ ! ma9 /ream4 ,i 0 told t its s\rce may be rea*$ 9 a day & a half f ! junction ( ! valleys4 ,on ! left bank ( ! ,govo a ?icket ( pama %rubs gr[s1 & a safe bridge ( ?ree ar*es spans ! riv]4 ,ov] ?is bridge runs ! important trade r\te to ,tok-jalung :i* ,i h m5tion$ above4 ,h]ds ( yaks & flocks ( %eep graze on ! slopes1 & circul> p5folds rem9d u ( our life 9 ! ,*ang-tang4 ,a little f>!r up we cross ! ,govo1 :i* is half froz5 ov]2 spr+s & brooks f ! side valleys adorn ! sc5e ) cascades ( ice4 ,! riv] is said to be "h s swoll5 9 summ] t x _c be cross$ at any po9t4 ,to ! nor? & s\? sn[y m\nta9s are visible4 ,9 ! village ( ,govo1 consi/+ ( sev5 /one h\ses1 b>ley is cultivat$ & yields a mod]ate crop2 b ! inhabitants are n dep5d5t on ! h>ve/1 = !y also possess %eep1 goats1 & yaks1 ) :i* !y migrate nor?w>ds 9 summ]4 ,govo is ! la/ village :]e agriculture is pursu$1 s we "h f9d ourselves on ! b\nd>y betwe5 tillage & graz+1 & also betwe5 /one h\ses & black t5ts 7,illu/4 #ahb74 ,we h1 !n1 /ill "t to look into an ord9>y ,tibetan /one hut belong+ to a family 9 com=table circum/ances4 ,! walls are built ( untrimm$ b>e /ones1 b ! crevices are /opp$ ) e>? to keep out ! w9d4 ,?r\gh a labyr9? ( walls & ov] r\nd /ones :]e ! tripp+ foot seldom t\*es ! gr\nd we come to two y>ds :]e goats & calves are kept4 ,9 a ?ird is a loom1 at :i* a half-nak$ copp]y-br[n woman is work+1 & 9 a f\r? sits an old man engag$ 9 cutt+ up pama %rubs4 ,f ?is y>d we ent]$ a half-d>k room1 ) a floor ( mud1 & two op5+s 9 ! ro(1 ?r\gh :i* ! smoke escapes & ! daylight ent]s4 ,! ro( consi/s ( beams ov]laid ) a ?at* ( bru%wood1 :i* is cov]$ all ov] ) soil & flat /ones--x mu/ be nice & dry :5 x ra9s4 ,!re sat an eld]ly woman tell+ (f h] manis on a ros>y ( porcela9 beads4 ,! next room is ! kit*51 ! g5]al liv+-room & ! pr9cipal ap>tm5t ( ! h\se4 ,at a project+ wall /&s ! /one cook+-range ) r\nd black-edg$ holes = saucepans & teapots ( bak$ clay4 ,a l>ge e>!n pot1 /&+ on ! fire1 conta9s b>ley1 :i* is eat5 p>*$2 a /ick ) a /iff piece ( lea!r at ! end is twirl$ r\nd 9 ! b>ley betwe5 ! palms s t x may be roa/$ equally4 ,x ta/es delici\s4 ,i w5t ab\t1 turn$ ov] all ! h\sehold ut5sils & made an inv5tory1 & n 9 ,sw$i% only1 b also 9 ,tibetan4 ,!re 7 _m diff]5t vessels ( iron1 clay1 & wood = all k9ds ( purposes1 a l>ge wood5 ladle1 a tea sieve ( %eet-iron1 an iron spoon1 an a% %ovel1 iron fire-tongs1 & a ?+ call$ a ?agma1 an iron blade fitt$ into a piece ( wood1 some?+ l a clos$ pocket-knife1 & us$ to dress newly wov5 mat]ial4 ,a l>ge clay jug 0 fill$ ) *ang4 ,a small cubical vessel divid$ into f\r by small cross pieces ( wood is us$ to measure corn4 ,brick-tea is pulv]iz$ ) a /one %ap$ l a cucumb] 9 a deep wood5 cup4 ,a knife-blade ) a haft at ei!r end is us$ 9 prep>+ & taw+ hides4 ,"u "o ( ! smoke v5ts /ood a small he>? = an op5 fire ) an iron tripod4 ,a l>ge lea!rn sack 0 fill$ ) tsamba1 & two %eep's /oma*s held fat & butt]4 ,on a rack a quantity ( %eep's trott]s1 du/y & dirty1 7 arrang$2 :5 !y are sev]al mon?s old !y are us$ to make s\p1 :i* is ?ick5$ ) tsamba4 ,tea1 salt1 & tobacco are kept 9 l>ge & small bags4 ,we saw likewise all k9ds ( religi\s objects1 votive b[ls1 joss-/icks1 & small image cases2 also bales ( home-wov5 textiles1 col\r$ rib&s = sew+ on sk9 coats & boots1 knives1 hat*ets1 sabres & spe>s1 :i*1 we 7 told1 are = fight+ ?ieves & robb]s2 a pair ( bell[s1 two sacks ( dry dung = fuel1 baskets1 h&-mills = gr9d+ b>ley1 consi/+ ( two r\nd flat /ones ) a h&le on ! upp] "o2 la/ly1 an oil-lamp & an oil-c1 & a cyl9drical tub ) iron hoops full ( wat]4 ,9 a corn] lay heaps ( sk9s & g>m5ts1 & aga9/ ! wall 7 two sleep+-places /ill 9 disord]4 ,9 ano!r /ore-room !re 7 provisions 9 sacks1 b>ley1 gre5 fodd]1 peas1 & great jo9ts ( meat4 ,"h ?ree "y wom5 & a troop ( *ildr5 _h tak5 refuge2 we left !m room to escape1 & !y ran away scream+ l\dly z if all ! knives 9 ! h\se 7 at _! ?roats4 ,9 ! room 7 balances = weigh+1 consi/+ ( a r\nd$ /aff ) a /one weight at "o end & a dri$ yak hide at ! o!r4 ,beh9d a p>tition /raw 0 kept4 ,!re are high inconv5i5t ?re%olds betwe5 ! rooms1 & ! usual bundles ( rods on ! ro( to protect ! h\se f evil spirits4 ,aft] ?is exp$ition we inspect$ ! t5ts ( our escort1 :]e a fire 0 burn+ 9 a brok5 clay pot1 & a skillet /ood ov] x on a tripod4 ,! smoke escapes ?r\gh ! long slit betwe5 ! two halves ( :i* ! t5t is compos$4 ,! own]s ( ! t5t 7 writ+ _! report to ! au?orities 9 ,%igatse1 in=m+ !m t we 7 on ! "r road4 ,at ! same "t !y 7 eat+ _! d9n] ( mutton1 a ye> old1 dry & h>d2 x mu/ n come ne> ! fire4 ,"o ( !m cut x into /rips & di/ribut$ x among 8 comrades4 ,he _h be5 = tw5ty ye>s a lama 9 ! mona/]y ,lung-g&5 9 ,tong1 b a few ye>s be=e _h be5 eject$ f ! confrat]nity because he _h fall5 9 love ) a woman4 ,he spoke ( x himself1 s x 0 d\btless true4 ,rob]t's bay horse 0 report$ dead on ! morn+ ( ,april #bj4 ,8 late tumble n[ seem$ to u l an om52 ?\gh fat & sleek1 he di$ sudd5ly ab\t midnight4 ,we n[ ride on aga9 t[>ds high] regions ov] uncom=table blocks ( /one1 b ! valley becomes m op5 & ! relative heights dim9i%4 ,?\gh ! little t is left ( ! /ream /ill swirls & foams1 ! ice becomes ?ick]1 & at la/ cov]s almo/ all ! b$1 & ! wat] is he>d ru%+ & murmur+ "u x4 ,juicy moss skirts ! banks1 ! view becomes m ext5sive1 & ! :ole "* ( ! l&scape becomes alp9e4 ,we saw t5 m5 ) guns 9 a %eepfold1 c>ry+ gun-re/s ) yell[ & r$ p5nants on "o ( ! prongs2 p]haps !y 7 highway robb]s4 ,d>k cl\ds sweep ov] ! ridges1 & 9 a m9ute we are 9 ! mid/ ( icy-cold drift+ sn[1 b x does n la/ long4 ,! la/ bit ( road 0 awful1 no?+ b b\ld]s & dbris1 :i* we c\ld sometimes avoid by rid+ ov] ! ice ( ! riv]4 ,! camp+-gr\nd 0 call$ ,*omo-sumdo1 a valley =k 9 a desolate region1 b ! escort _h se5 t "s /raw & b>ley 7 br\ght up on yaks = our horses4 ,f "h we _h to ride on ! ice1 smoo? & firm aft] #bg degrees ( fro/ 9 ! night4 ,! neighb\rhood is n1 h[ev]1 un9habit$1 = yaks & %eep 7 se5 graz+ 9 _m places1 belong+ to nomads migrat+ nor?w>ds or m]*ants com+ f ,tok-jalung4 ,at two black t5ts ! p 7 pack+ up = ! day's m>*2 !y _h goats1 ) /rips ( r$ clo? b\nd r\nd ! e>s4 ,a little f>!r up is a precipit\s rock on ! "r side ( ! valley1 & two caves op5 _! black m\?s 9 ! wall4 ,! l[] "o 7,illu/4 #aij7 is ! entrance to a passage lead+ to ! upp]1 :]e a fam\s h]mit has fix$ 8 solit>y abode4 ,! upp] op5+ has a p>tly natural balcony decorat$ ) /ream]-poles & rib&s4 ,bel[ ! l[] /& mani cairns1 long g>l&s ( /r+ ) col\r$ pray]-/rips1 a pray]-ma/1 & a metal idol 9 a ni*e ( ! rock4 ,we te!r$ our horses at ! edge ( ! ice & w5t up to ! l[] grotto4 ,"h two "y nuns f ,kirong 7on ! bord] ( ,nepal7 met u1 & two m5dicant monks f ,nepal1 "o ( :om spoke ,h9du/ani1 s t ,rob]t c\ld conv]se ) him4 ,! nuns 7 pretty1 well-gr[n1 sun-burnt1 & some:at l gypsies2 _! l>ge black eyes _h ! %imm] ( velvet1 & _! black hair 0 p>t$ on ! =ehead & fell 9 luxuriant waves ov] _! %\ld]s2 !y 7 clo!d 9 r$ rags & wore ,tibetan boots adorn$ ) r$ rib&s4 ,!y spoke *e]fully & pleasantly 9 /rik+ly s(t1 extremely sympa!tic voices1 & 7 n 9 ! lea/ timid4 ,_! simple dwell+1 :i* we saw1 0 9 ! great entrance ( ! grotto1 "u a smoke-black5$ vault1 surr\nd$ by a small wall & a palisade ( pama bran*es1 & p>tly hung ) clo?4 ,a sleep+-place 0 made ( rugs ( int]wov5 /rips ( clo?1 & a tea-kettle 0 boil+ on ! fire4 ,"o ( ! m5 _h a ?ick pigtail & a r$ lama frock2 ! o!r wore a %eepsk91 & _h n _h 8 hair cut 9 ! pres5t1 tw5tie?1 c5tury4 ,! dwell+ prop] 0 situat$ 9 a high] "p ( ! cav]n4 ,all f\r _h come 9 autumn1 & 7 wait+ = ! w>m] season to proce$ to ,lhasa1 & return !nce home aga94 ,9 ! meantime !y volunt>ily wait$ on ! two holy h]mits soj\rn+ 9 ?is m\nta91 & !reby e>n$ _! liv+ & ga9$ m]it1 accord+ to ! ideas ( _! ord]4 ,:5 !y g (f aga9 on _! w&]+s1 o!r s]v+ bre?r5 & si/]s w be f\nd ready to take _! place4 ,a w9d+ /aircase on ! left1 p>tly natural & p>tly con/ruct$ ( flag/ones1 leads to ! upp] regions ( ! cav]n4 ,at fir/ x is d>k1 b becomes light] z we approa* a loophole 9 ! rock4 ,"h & !re are /ream]-poles1 & ! holy syllables are incis$4 ,f ! loophole ! /aircase turns /eeply to ! "r2 if we slipp$ on ! smoo? /one we %\ld tumble d[n "r into ! nuns' kit*51 :i* f "h looks l ! bottom ( a well4 ,! passage ends at a po9t :]e a small /one /aircase goes up to a trap-door cov]$ ) a slab4 ,pu%+ aside ! slab1 "o rea*es ! l>g] grotto *amb] ( :i* we _h se5 ! op5+ f ! valley4 ,b ! s]v+ bro!rs & si/]s w\ld n take u s high4 ,9 ?is upp] grotto1 ,*oma-taka1 ! #ajj-ye>s-old h]mit1 ,gunsang ,ngurbu1 ( high repute 9 all ! c\ntry = 8 hol9ess1 has dwelt = sev5 ye>s4 ,gunsang means h]mit1 & ,ngurbu is a v common "n signify+ preci\s /one4 ,e sev5? day 8 att5dants place tsamba1 wat]1 tea1 & fuel on ! /eps "u ! trap-door1 & ^! ?+s are tak5 9 by ! old man1 :o may n speak ) m51 b only ) ! gods4 ,?r\gh a hole "u ! slab ,i caught sight ( a *hort5 con/ruct$ ( /ones & mud1 & "s pa9t$ pictures ( gods on ! wall ( ! grotto4 ,beh9d ! *hort51 & un=tunately out ( sight1 ! old man sat 9 a ni*e 9 ! wall1 cr\*+ d[n & say+ 8 pray]s2 n[ & !n he bl[s a %ell horn4 ,illu/ration3 #aia4 ,,rob]t ,,& ,,rabsang ,,by ,,! ,,ice ,,on ,,! ,,way ,,to ,,! ,,*ang-,,la-,,pod-,,la4 ,illu/ration3 #aib4 ,a ,,lhadse ,,deck$ ,,) ,,mani-,,/ones ,,& ,,pray]-,,/ream]s4 7,n4,w4 ( ! ,kore-la47 ,i wi%$ to pu% aside ! %utt] & m\nt into ! upp] grotto1 b ! consci5ces ( my companions w\ld n p]mit su* a ?+ = all ! money 9 ! _w4 ,x w\ld di/urb ! old man 9 8 m$itations1 & int]rupt ! p]iod ( 8 seclusion1 &1 moreov]1 ! old man w\ld ?r[ /ones at u4 ,! life ( ! h]mit ,ngurbu mu/ be idyllic comp>$ to t ( ! immur$ ,l+a monks1 = he sees ! valley1 ! sun1 ! :irl+ sn[1 & ! />s sp>kl+ 9 ! sky2 b he mu/ suff] f ennui4 ,9 ano!r grotto1 side by side ) ,ngurbu's1 lives ano!r h]mit1 b ! two h nev] met & "k no?+ ( "o ano!r4 ,!y may eat no meat1 only tsamba & tea1 & !y receive ^! f ! neighb\r+ nomads & ! travell]s pass+ along ! road4 ,aft] ?is digression we cross ! ice ( ! riv] aga9 & pass up ov] ! ev]-pres5t detritus4 ,be=e u is ! flatti% saddle ( ! ,*ang-la-,pod-la4 ,we accompli% ! asc5t ) great ef=t1 ! icy w9d bl[+ "r 9 our faces4 ,i _c comm5ce my obs]vations at ! cairn till ,i h w>m$ my h&s ov] a dung fire4 ,! view is limit$1 flat1 & ( little use = ori5tation4 ,h[ev]1 t[>ds ! way we h come1 we c see ! deeply erod$ valleys1 & we seem to be high] ?an ! ridges enclos+ !m4 ,! height is #ah1bhd feet4 ,*ang signifies nor?1 nor? c\ntry2 ,pod or ,p1 ,tibet1 i4e4 ,tibet prop]1 *iefly inhabit$ by a settl$ population4 ,*ang-la-,pod-la is1 !n1 ! pass betwe5 ! nor!rn tablel& ( ! nomads & ! c\ntry to ! s\? hav+ dra9age to ! sea4 ,x is ?is prop]ty ( a b\nd>y betwe5 ^! two regions :i* r5d]s ! ,trans-,himalaya ( su* prime importance1 & !re=e !re are _m passes call$ ,*ang-la-,pod-la4 ,(t5 & (t5 ,i 0 told t a pass1 :atev] might be its especial "n1 0 a ,*ang-la-,pod-la :5 x lay on ! wat]%$ betwe5 ! inl& dra9age ( ! nor? & ! riv] bas9 ( ! ,tsangpo 9 ! s\?4 ,i _h !n cross$ ! ,trans-,himalaya a second "t by a pass ly+ #dd miles to ! we/ ( ! ,sela-la1 & _h be5 able to asc]ta9 t ! huge range ( ! ,ni5-*5-tang-la ext5ds ?us f>4 ,x 0 /ill m my e>ne/ desire to foll[ x /ep by /ep to ! we/4 ,aft] we _h encamp$ on ! pass1 :]e ! !rmomet] fell at night to -#i1 we rode on ,april #bb sl[ly d[n ! valley ( ! ,%ak-*u riv]1 :i* gradually becomes broad]1 & is begirt by flat r\nd$ m\nta9s1 9 :i* rock 9 situ seldom occurs4 ,we h pass$ f ! maze ( m\nta9s int]sect$ by ! afflu5ts ( ! ,my-*u1 abundantly f$ by ! ra9s1 on to ! wide pla9s ( ! plateau c\ntry1 & notice aga9 t ! ,trans-,himalaya is also an extraord9>ily important climatological b\nd>y4 ,! ,laps5-,t>i is a heap ( clods ) a %eaf ( rods /uck 9 ! middle1 f :i* /ream] /r+s are c>ri$ to o!r rods4 ,f ?is po9t !re is a f9e view ov] ! plateau & its wrea? ( m\nta9s4 ,to ! nor?1 #ee we/1 we see ! ,t>go-gangri aga91 b m maje/ic1 m isolat$1 & m dom9ant ?an f ! ,ngangtse-tso1 :]e1 %r\d$ 9 cl\ds & surr\nd$ by o!r m\nta9s1 x 0 less conspicu\s4 ,j at ! m\nd we pass$ ! la/ corn] :i* obscur$ ! view1 & sudd5ly ! :ole gr& m\nta9 appe>$ 9 its dazzl+ :it5ess1 %9+ l a ligh?\se ov] ! sea ( ! plateau1 9 a mantle ( firn fields & blue gli/5+ ice1 & ris+ bold & %>ply aga9/ ! sky ( pure/ azure blue4 ,! m\nd is !re=e plac$ :]e ! travell] com+ f ,%igatse fir/ comes 9 sight ( ! holy m\nta94 ,our guides b>$ _! heads & murmur$ pray]s4 ,two pilgrims1 :om we _h se5 at ! grotto ( ! h]mits1 light$ a fire & ?rew into x a sc5t$ p[d]1 an (f]+ ( inc5se to ! gods ( ,t>go-gangri4 ,s\? & s\?-we/ runs a l(ty range1 ( uni=m height1 ) pat*es ( sn[ glitt]+ 9 ! sun on its br[ni%-purple summit--ano!r "p ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,z we sat "h a trad+ c>avan came along ! road to ,p5la-buk1 :i* lies on ! we/ side ( ! ,dangra-yum-tso1 & is a r5dezv\s = gold-prospectors & wool-deal]s4 ,our t5ts =m$ a little village on ! ,kyangdam pla91 :]e wild asses ab\nd1 & "s sixty nomads ( ! neighb\rhood encamp$ ar\nd x4 ,9 ! ev5+ ! escort f ,ghe pres5t$ !mselves to in=m me t z we 7 n[ 9 ! ,l>gep di/rict1 subject to ! ,labrang1 !y w\ld return home & consign u to a new gu>d4 ,! latt] consi/$ ( five m5 f> advanc$ 9 life4 ,_! lead] 0 a small grey-head$ man ) trembl+ h&s & v indi/9ct enunciation4 ,:5 ! ,ghe m51 :o long$ to return to _! w>m] villages1 _h gone (f next morn+ 9 spite ( a viol5t /orm1 ,i _h a s]i\s talk ) ! new m54 ,!y int5d$ to lead u ov] ! pass ,%a-la 7,trans-,himalaya7 9 ! s\?-we/1 :]e ! ,t>go-tsangpo rises1 on ! banks ( :i* we _h pass$ ! day4 ,accord+ to ,na9 ,s+'s map ?is riv] fl[s r\nd ! ea/ side ( ,t>go-gangri1 & !n ent]s ! ,dangra-tso1 z ! holy lake is call$ "h4 ,b ,na9 ,s+ 0 nev] !re1 & ,i wi%$ to ga9 an insight into ! geography ( ! c\ntry4 ,s we came to an agreem5t t we %\ld travel nor?-we/w>ds2 & ,i po9t$ out to ! m5 t ,raga-tasam 0 put d[n 9 our passport z ! next place2 t two roads l$ ?i!r1 "o ov] ! ,%a-la1 ! o!r deviat+ nor?w>ds to ! ,t>go-gangri1 & t ,i _h *os5 ! latt]4 ,! passport prohibit$ u f visit+ ,lhasa1 ,gyangtse1 & ! mona/]y ,sekiya-gompa1 b conta9$ n a s+le ^w ab\t ! road to ! ,dangra-yum-tso4 ,!y ought !n to comply ) my wi%es4 ,! old man hesitat$1 pond]$ a:ile1 & summon$ 8 foll[]s to a c\ncil4 ,8 t5t 0 soon full ( black1 b>e-head$ m5 9 grey %eepsk9s4 ,!n ! consultation 0 adj\rn$ to ,muham$ ,isa's t5t4 ,aft] "s consid]ation !y agre$ to my proposals1 on ! condition t ,i %\ld pay !m a :ole t5ga p] day = ea* yak in/ead ( half a t5ga4 ,i rejoic$ at ! hope ( see+ ! holy m\nta9 com+ clos] & clos]1 & its f9] details becom+ m conspicu\s1 ( behold+ x 9 cl\d & sun%9e1 disappe>+ beh9d ! hills & peep+ out aga9 l a man-(-w> 9 a r\gh sea ) high :ite waves r\nd ! b[1 or1 m correctly1 l a %ip "u full sail on ! sea ( ! plateau4 ,( c\rse ,i expos$ myself to annoyances by ignor+ ! passport1 b geographical discov]ies 7 conc]n$ & all consid]ations mu/ be set aside4 ,on ,vega day1 ,april #bd1 we _h a /rong w9d 9 our faces1 x 0 cold1 & ,t>go-gangri p>tly disappe>$ beh9d ! cl\ds4 ,escort$ by ! old g5tleman & f\r horsem5 :o 7 z mu* alike z if !y _h be5 ca/ 9 ! same m\ld1 & :o _h all mat*locks on _! backs1 ,i rode along ! bank ( ! ,t>go-tsangpo 9 ! contract+ valley :i* slopes ) an extremely g5tle gradi5t1 imp]ceptible to ! eye1 to ! lake4 ,at la/ ! valley becomes s n>r[ t ! ice fills all its bottom4 ,! road !re=e leaves ! riv] on ! left1 & passes ov] flat hills1 among :i* we cross a succession ( small afflu5ts4 ,black t5ts1 tame yaks graz+1 /one folds = %eep1 wild asses1 & millions ( field mice recall to m9d ! ,*ang-tang4 ,! wild yak1 h[ev]1 does n occur 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! fea!r$ k+dom is repres5t$ by rav5s1 wild ducks1 & occasionally a small bird4 ,:5 we came to ! ,bumnak-*u1 a "r-h& tribut>y ( ! ,t>go-tsangpo1 a l>ge numb] ( m5 came to meet u1 salut+ ) ! tongue1 & gaz+ at u *e]fully & good-temp]$ly ) _! long black unkempt hair1 _! small grey sk9s1 & _! torn boots4 ,on ,april #be we rode ov] ! ,t+-la pass2 at its foot is a mani 9 good pres]vation1 ) a yak skull z ornam5t1 a =m ( pray] be+ incis$ 9 ! frontal bone betwe5 ! horns4 ,f ! top ( ! pass ,t>go-gangri is se5 exp&$ into a r[ ( peaks cov]$ ) sn[4 ,! :ole region is l a sea ) a /rong swell on1 & ! ,t>go-gangri is z :ite foam+ surf on ! coa/4 ,a little lat] ! summits ( ! mass /ood cle>ly out :ite on a backgr\nd ( blui%-black cl\ds2 ! highe/ two1 tw9 peaks1 _h ! =m ( a ,tibetan t5t on two poles4 ,our camp 9 ! ,kokbo valley conta9$ n few] ?an elev5 t5ts1 = n[ we _h ab\t =ty companions ( all ages1 & at lea/ a hundr$ yaks4 ,! loads 7 transf]r$ to o!r yaks on ! m>* to sp>e ! animals4 ,:5 ! c>avan moves ov] ! r\nd$ hills x is l a nomad tribe on ! m>*4 ,mo/ ( our ,tibetans ride yaks or horses4 ,we _h made a %ort m>*1 & pl5ty ( "t 0 left = me to g ab\t1 make a visit to ea* t5t1 & see h[ ! m5 7 gett+ on4 ,!y 7 all dr9k+ tea & eat+ tsamba1 _! greate/ pleasure 9 life4 ,! dung fire burns 9 ! middle1 & ! =m ( ! t5t c]ta9ly is ! cause ( ! draught :i* prev5ts smoke f collect+ inside4 ,r\nd ab\t /& kettles1 teapots1 & wood5 cups4 ,a huge quantity ( provisions lies at ! sides4 ,saddles & h>ness are deposit$ 9 a r[ be=e ! t5t4 ,:5 ,i ent]1 all rise1 b ,i beg !m to sit d[n aga9 & g on eat+1 :ile ,i take a seat on a b>ley sack at ! door ( ! t5t4 ,all h ! "r arm b>e1 & _m bo? arms2 :5 !y let _! %eepsk9s fall d[n _! backs ! :ole body is nak$ d[n to ! wai/4 ,!y are copp]-br[n & cov]$ ) a lay] ( dirt1 b well-gr[n1 p[]ful1 manly1 & 9 good proportion4 ,! cook ( ! t5t community p\rs out tea = all1 & !n ea* "o br+s out 8 own bag & takes out a p9* ( tsamba to spr9kle into 8 tea4 ,!y eat meat ei!r raw or boil$ 9 a pot4 ,!y are all quiet & ord]ly1 no angry words are he>d1 no qu>rell+ & %\t+1 !y are all ! be/ ( fri5ds1 & make !mselves com=table aft] _! day's m>*1 talk+ & laugh+ toge!r4 ,_! wigs are du/-traps & make !m look l ,indians4 ,mo/ ( !m we> a pigtail1 consi/+ mo/ly ( plait$ ?reads ) :ite bone r+s & small silv] image boxes :i* h a c\ple ( turquoises inlaid 9 ! lid4 ,"s h ! pigtail w\nd r\nd ! head1 =m+ a s+ul> cr[n1 ! diadem ( ! wild]ness4 ,9 ano!r t5t ! d9n] 0 f9i%$ & ! cov]s 7 empty4 ,!re a man sat ) an awl1 cobbl+ a torn boot2 ano!r sew$ ! gir?s ( 8 saddle on firmly2 & a ?ird lay on 8 back1 ) legs cross$ & an arm support+ 8 head1 & took 8 aft]-d9n] nap4 ,se5 f above he makes a v absurd figure ) 8 huge no/rils1 into :i* mice might easily walk 9 mi/ake = _! holes4 ,a smirk+ y\? is smok+ 8 pipe1 :ile 8 neighb\r busily & c>efully se>*es = suspect$ lodg]s 9 8 %eepsk94 ,i drew sev]al ( !m )\t excit+ ! lea/ uneas9ess2 on ! contr>y1 !y made a joke ( ! sitt+1 & laugh$ he>tily :5 !y saw _! c\nt]feits1 :i* !y embelli%$ ) pr9ts ( _! butt]y f+]s on ! m>g94 ,!y ask$ me :y ,i drew !m1 & = :at purpose ,i wi%$ to "k _! names & ages4 ,!y 7 all sympa!tic1 polite1 & fri5dly1 & ,i enjoy$ _! society 7,illu/s4 #aic1 #aid74 ,a begg+ lama1 too1 look$ 92 he 0 on ! way to ,kailas1 & 0 quickly sket*$1 to ! int5se amusem5t ( ! o!r m54 ,he bore a lance ) a black tassel & r$ /rips1 a timbrel1 an antelope horn to protect himself aga9/ snappy dogs1 & a trombone ( human bone1 :i* he set 9 a corn] ( 8 m\? :5 he blew x4 ,x caus$ him mu* amusem5t to be ! object ( univ]sal att5tion1 & he took advantage ( x to make acqua9tance ) ! nomads ) a view to an appeal to _! lib]ality 7,illu/4 #aie74 ,illu/ration3 #aic1 #aid4 ,,nomads ,,s\? ,,( ,,t>go-,,gangri4 ,illu/ration3 #aie4 ,,m5dicant ,,lama ,,bl[+ ,,on ,a ,,human ,,bone4 ,illu/ration3 #aif4 ,,tibetan ,,boy4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,,*apt] ,,xxxvii ,,t>go-,,gangri ,,& ,,! ,,%uru-,,tso ,hi!rto we _h exp]i5c$ no difficulties1 b at ,kokbo ! /ate ( affairs seem$ disquiet+4 ,our old man in=m$ me t he _h s5t a message to ! nomads at ! ,t>go-gangri m\nta91 ask+ !m to hold yaks 9 read9ess4 ,!y _h answ]$ t !y c\ld n ?9k ( s]v+ a ,european )\t express ord]s1 & t !y w\ld resort to =ce if our pres5t gu>ds l$ u to ! lake4 ,! old man1 h[ev]1 0 n put out1 b believ$ t he c\ld soon br+ !m to _! s5ses4 ,on ,april #bf we m>* nor?-we/w>ds 9 a %>p w9d ov] ! pass ,t>bung-la4 ,! sacr$ m\nta9 exhibits all ! beauty ( its sixte5 peaks1 & nor?1 #cc we/1 is se5 ! gap :]e we expect to f9d ! ,dangra-yum-tso4 ,! view is ( imm5se ext5t4 ,! valley wid5s out & passes into t ( ! ,t>go-tsangpo4 ,f\r antelopes spr+ lightly ov] ! slopes2 black t5ts are n to be se54 ,:5 we aga9 rea* m op5 gr\nd1 "o ( ! mo/ magnific5t views ,i h se5 9 ?is "p ( ,tibet op5s out to ! we/-s\?-we/1 a gigantic range ( uni=m height1 ) sn[-cov]$ p9nacles & %ort glaci]s betwe51 :i* is sc>cely inf]ior to ,t>go-gangri 9 impos+ beauty & massiv5ess4 ,! *a9 is blui% black bel[ ! sn[y po9ts2 at its foot lies a lake unkn[n to u1 ! ,%uru-tso4 ,! j\rney to ! ,ngangtse-tso nor?-nor?-ea/ by ! way ( ! ,%angbuk-la pass is reckon$ z only ?ree days' m>*4 ,on ! ea/]n flank ( ,t>go-gangri five glaci]s are deeply emb$d$1 :ile to ! ea/ ( ! m\nta9 ! flat op5 valley ( ! ,t>go-tsangpo comes into sight1 :i* we gradually approa*1 pass+ ov] five cle>ly def9$ t]races1 relics ( a "t :5 ! ,dangra-yum-tso 0 mu* l>g] ?an n[4 ,two wolves make (f 9 front ( u1 & ! old man gallops aft] !m1 b turns back :5 !y /op z if to wait = him4 ,if ,i _h _h a knife or a gun1 he says1 ,i w\ld h kill$ !m bo?4 ,at l5g? we desc5d to ! valley ( ! ,t>go-tsangpo d[n a bold t]race ) two l$ges1 & "h ! riv] is divid$ into sev]al arms1 & wild ducks & geese sw>m4 ,bru%wood gr[s on ! banks4 ,on ! "r bank lies our camp1 ,no4 #aej1 n f> f ! foot ( ! maje/ic ,t>go-gangri 7,illu/4 #aih74 ,?us f> we 7 to come1 b no f>!r4 ,"h a troop ( tw5ty horsem5 arm$ to ! tee? await$ u1 :o _h be5 s5t by ! ,gov]nor ( ,naktsang f ,%ansa-dzong1 ) ord]s to /op u 9 case we %\ld attempt to advance to ! holy lake4 ,?is "t !y _h kept a %>p] wat*1 & _h anticipat$ t ,i w\ld take all k9ds ( lib]ties4 ,!y _h left ,%ansa-dzong fifte5 days be=e1 & _h be5 camp+ "h ?ree days1 await+ our arrival4 ,if we _h hurri$ we %\ld h be5 be=e !m aga94 ,"o ( ! two lead]s 0 ! same ,lundup ,ts]+ :o1 z he told me himself1 _h /opp$ ,dutreuil de ,rh9s & ,gr5>d1 & _h be5 9 ,janu>y ) ,hlaje ,ts]+ at ! ,ngang/e-tso4 ,he in=m$ me t ,hlaje ,ts]+ 0 /ill 9 (fice1 b _h _h mu* tr\ble because ( u1 & _h be5 oblig$ to pay a f9e ( sixty yambaus 7ab\t #fge7 to ! ,deva%ung4 ,:5 ,i rem>k$ t ,hlaje ,ts]+ _h told me himself t he 0 s poor t he _h no?+ left to lose1 ,lundup answ]$ t he _h extort$ ! money f 8 subord9ates4 ,all1 too1 :o _h sold u yaks & s]v$ u z guides _h be5 heavily f9$4 ,! next ,european :o attempt$ to get ?r\gh )\t a passport w\ld h no end ( difficulties to cont5d ) 7,illu/4 #bjj74 ,illu/ration3 #aig4 ,,kubi-,,gangri ,,f ,,camp #bja4 ,s4 #ai ,e41 ,ngomo-d+d+ 7#a71 ) ! ,ngomo-d+d+ ,glaci] bel[4 ,s4 #b ,w41 ,absi 7#b71 ) ! ,absi ,glaci]1 ,s4 #ba-ce ,w41 ! ,massive ( ,muk*ung-simo 7#c74 ,illu/ration3 #aih4 ,,t>go-,,gangri ,,f ,a ,,hill ,,ne> ,,camp #aej4 ,n4 #cb ,w41 ,s]%ik-gompa 7#d74 ,n4 #bf-ac ,w41 ! ,dangra-yum-tso 7#e7 9 ! di/ance4 ,illu/ration3 #aii4 ,,! ,,*omo-,,u*ong ,,gr\p ,,f ,,! ,,k9*5-,,la1 ,,may #bc1 #aijg 7cf4 ,illu/ration #bab74 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,lundup po9t$ to a r$ granite promontory1 #bjj y>ds nor? ( our camp1 & said3 ,!re is ! b\nd>y betwe5 ! ,labrang 7,ta%i-lunpo7 & ,naktsang 7,lhasa74 ,s f> we c let y g1 b n a /ep f>!r2 if y attempt x1 we h ord]s to fire on y4 ,!y read ! passport f ,%igatse1 & affirm$ t ! words !re91 on ! direct way to ,ladak1 did n mean t we _h p]mission to make all sorts ( det\rs1 &1 above all1 we might n g to ! ,dangra-yum-tso1 :i* is holy & is 9 ! t]ritory ( ,lhasa4 ,gaw ,daloi _h giv5 ord]s t he %\ld be in=m$ daily :i* way we 7 travell+4 ,if !y did n obey ?is ord] !y w\ld lose _! heads4 ,x 0 evid5t1 !n1 t ,i %\ld h to give up ! ,dangra-yum-tso = ! ?ird "t1 & j :5 ,i 0 only two %ort days' m>* f x4 ,! outl9e ( ! m\nta9 /ood out %>p & :ite 9 ! moon%9e aga9/ ! blue-black />ry sky4 ,! next day !re 0 a /orm1 & n ev5 ! foot ( ,t>go-gangri 0 visible1 mu* less ! icy-cold heights :]e ! w9ds s+ _! heav5ly *oruses among ! firn fields4 ,9 ! ev5+1 h[ev]1 :5 ! wea!r _h cle>$1 ! :ole mass /ood cle>ly out1 cov]$ ) fre%ly fall5 sn[4 ,aga9 we held a long palav] ) ! horsem5 f ,naktsang4 ,i told !m t ,i w\ld n leave ?is camp till ,i _h at lea/ se5 ! lake f a di/ance4 ,to my delight !y repli$ t ?\gh !y 7 oblig$1 mu* aga9/ _! incl9ation1 to cause me ! disappo9tm5t ( n visit+ ! lake1 !y w\ld n prev5t me f see+ x f a di/ance1 b t !y w\ld keep a good wat* le/ ,i %\ld ride (f beh9d yond] r$ m\nta9 to ! nor?4 ,!y _h sc>cely gone :5 our old ,kyangdam guide came to compla9 t ! horsem5 f ,naktsang _h ?reat5$ 8 life because he _h br\ght me "h4 ,i s5t = ! ,naktsang m5 aga9 & impress$ on !m /rongly t !y _h no cause ( compla9t aga9/ my escort1 = x 0 entirely my fault t we 7 "h4 ,!y promis$ t !y w\ld n aga9 treat ! ,kyangdam m5 h>%ly1 z !y _h mo/ =tunately caught me j at ! "r mom5t4 ,! ,kyangdam m5 c\ld n ?ank me en\gh = re/or+ peace1 & _! joy 0 /ill great] :5 ,i pres5t$ ! :ole p>ty ) money to supplem5t _! scanty /ore ( provisions4 ,!y gave v5t to _! delight by p]=m+ games1 dances1 & wre/l+ b\ts 9 front ( my t5t1 & _! happy laught] & %\ts 7 e*o$ till late 9 ! night f ! m\nta9s4 ,!n came twelve m soldi]s f ,naktsang ) fre% ord]s t we 7 "u no circum/ances to be all[$ to proce$ f>!r nor?w>ds4 ,b all 7 fri5dly & polite2 we jok$ & laugh$ toge!r1 & 7 ! be/ ( fri5ds4 ,x is s+ul> t !y nev] lose _! pati5ce1 ?\gh ,i am always caus+ !m worry1 p]plexity1 & tr\blesome j\rneys4 ,! *ief ( ,l>gep 0 m unyield+ ?an our old fri5ds ! ,naktsang g5tlem54 ,he w\ld n let me climb ! r$ m\nta91 b insi/$ t we %\ld leave ! di/rict next day & travel /raight to ,raga-tasam4 ,h[ev]1 ,i snubb$ him1 dem&+ h[ he1 a small *iefta9 9 ! m\nta9s1 c\ld d>e to speak s p]emptorily4 ,ev5 ! ,*9ese 9 ,lhasa1 ,i said1 _h treat$ u pleasantly & _h left u ! fulle/ fre$om4 ,i w\ld n leave ! spot until ,i _h se5 ! lake4 ,i ?reat5$ to te> ! ,%igatse passport 9 pieces1 & s5d (f at once a c\ri] to ,tang ,d>9 & ,li5 ,d>91 & wait = _! answ] at ! foot ( ,t>go-gangri4 ,!n ! *ief became emb>rass$1 got up 9 sil5ce1 & w5t away ) ! o!rs4 ,b !y 7 ) me aga9 9 ! ev5+1 & ) a humble smile !y said t ,i might ride up ! r$ m\nta9 if ,i w\ld promise n to g to ! %ore ( ! lake4 ,a ?9 veil ( mi/ lay ov] ! c\ntry all day long4 ,b :5 ! sun set1 ! we/]n sky gl[$ ) purple flames1 & ! cold glaci]s & sn[fields 7 ?r[n up by a backgr\nd ( fire4 ,illu/ration3 #bjj4 ,,lundup',s ,,squadron4 ,,to ,,! ,,left ,a ,,"p ,,( ,,t>go-,,gangri4 ,,camp #aej4 ,at la/1 on ,april #bi1 we take to ! road & ride up ! afflu5t ,*uma1 fl[+ d[n f ! "r & call$ 9 its upp] c\rse ,nagma-tsangpo4 ,we climb high] & high] up regul>ly curv$ lake t]races2 ! view wid5s out ! ne>] we approa* ! summit1 :]e ! ,ladakis are wait+ = u ) a fire4 ,! s\!rn bas9 ( ! ,dangra-yum-tso 0 cle>ly visible z a blui% sabre-blade1 & ! valley ( ! ,t>go-tsangpo wid5s out l a trumpet to ! broad pla9 beside ! %ore4 ,x 0 ! easi] to trace ! c\rse ( ! riv] to ! neighb\rhood ( ! lake because x 0 m>k$ all along by :ite gli/5+ ice flakes & d>k spots :]e bu%es gr[4 ,at ! end ( ,july ! riv] is said to rise s high t x _c be cross$4 ,s :5 lett]s h to be deliv]$ to nomads on ! ea/]n foot ( ! m\nta9 !y are weight$ ) a /one & ?r[n across a n>r[ "p ( ! /ream4 ,! wat] ( ! lake is said to be z salt z t ( ! ,ngangtse-tso1 & is n fit = dr9k+2 b nev]!less pilgrims dr9k x1 because x is holy4 ,at ?is "t ! w9t] ice 0 break+ up1 & long %eets ( ice lay only at ! %ore4 ,9 contra/ to mo/ o!r lakes ( ,tibet1 ! ,dangra-yum-tso runs nor? & s\?1 & x n>r[s 9 ! middle1 j z ,na9 ,s+ has drawn x on 8 map2 b he has made ! lake a little too l>ge1 & has especially exagg]at$ ! dim5sions ( ! s\!rn bas94 ,a horseman c travel r\nd ! lake 9 five ord9>y or sev5 %ort days' j\rney2 ! pilgrim road closely foll[s ! lake %ore4 ,! pilgrims always make ! circuit ( ! lake 9 ! direction ( ! h&s ( a wat*1 if !y are or?odox2 b if !y belong to ! ,pembo sect1 l ! monks ( ! ,s]%ik-gompa1 !y beg9 _! m>* 9 ! opposite direction4 ,mo/ ( !m come 9 late summ] or autumn4 ,i 0 told t ! pilgrimage r\nd ! lake1 :i* ( c\rse mu/ be made on foot1 0 9 hon\r ( ,padma ,sambhava1 ! sa9t :o came to ,tibet 9 ! ye> #gdg1 became ! f\nd] ( ,lamaism1 & enjoys almo/ z great a reputation z ,buddha himself4 ,he is call$ 9 ,tibet ,lopn ,r9po*e1 & 8 image is g5]ally f\nd 9 ! temples4 ,s]%ik-gompa1 ( :i* we _h frequ5tly he>d1 & :i* ,na9 ,s+ names ,sasik ,gombas on 8 map1 /&s on an ev5 slope at ! ea/]n foot ( ! m\nta94 ,! mona/]y is "u ! ,deva%ung1 & has tw5ty ,pembo bre?r5 & an abbot nam$ ,tibha4 ,"s ( ! monks are said to be well (f1 b on ! :ole ! conv5t is n ri*2 x is support$ by nomads 9 ,naktsang1 ,l>gep1 & ,s]%ik4 ,! mona/]y is con/ruct$ *iefly ( /one1 b x also conta9s timb] transport$ hi!r f ! ,%ang valley4 ,!re is a dukang & a numb] ( small images ( gods4 ,! ,t>go-gangri massive c also be travell$ r\nd1 & only "o pass has to be cross$1 namely ! ,b>ong-la 7or ,p>ung71 :i* lies betwe5 ,t>go-gangri & ! mighty range on ! we/ ( ! ,%uru-tso4 ,! %ort1 l(ty1 m]idional range :i* is call$ ,t>go-gangri1 & is r to be consid]$ an isolat$ massive1 ends 9 ! nor? n f> f ! lake1 ! flanks ( ! la/ peak desc5d+ g5tly to its flat pla94 ,na9 ,s+ calls ! massive ,t>got-la ,sn[y ,peaks1 & ! di/rict to ! s\? ( ! m\nta9 ,trgot ,lhgeb 7,l>gep74 ,! riv] is m>k$ ,t>got ,sangpo on 8 map4 ,8 ,siru ,*o to ! ea/ ( ! lake is kn[n to no "o "h1 & 8 ,mun ,*o ,lakes m>k$ to ! s\? ( x actually lie to ! we/ ( ! lake4 ,8 repres5tation ( ! m\nta9s to ! s\? ( ! lake is confus$ & fanciful4 ,"s nomads nam$ ! holy m\nta9 ,*ang-t>go-ri4 ,on ! way back ,i took levels1 assi/$ by ,rob]t1 & f\nd t ! highe/ recognizable t]race lay #bib feet above ! level ( ! riv]4 ,! ,t>go-tsangpo is "h c]ta9ly n m ?an #f feet high] ?an ! surface ( ! lake4 ,z ! ,dangra-yum-tso is surr\nd$1 p>ticul>ly on ! s\?1 by r l[1 flat l&1 ! lake mu/ =m]ly h be5 ( v l>ge ext5t4 ,at t "t ! ,t>go-gangri skirt$ ! we/]n %ore z a p59sula4 ,9 ! night !re 0 a noise l an avalan*e fall+2 x became feebl] & di$ away4 ,! horses & yaks ( ! ,tibetans1 fright5$ by some?+ or o!r1 _h /orm$ ! detritus slope ( ! t]race4 ,half an h\r lat] ,i he>d :i/l+ & %\t+2 ! m5 7 com+ back ) ! runaways4 ,illu/ration3 #bja4 ,,lundup 7on horseback to ! left7 ,,& ,,8 ,,ret9ue ,,prev5t ,,me ,,f ,,proce$+ ,,to ,,! ,,dangra-,,yum-,,tso4 ,t>go-gangri & ! riv] ,t>go-tsangpo 9 ! backgr\nd4 ,be=e we took leave ( our tr\blesome fri5ds !y 7 photograph$ on horseback 7,illu/4 #bja74 ,!y all wore roomy1 d>k c]ise-col\r$ mantles1 &1 unlike ! b>e-head$ ,l>gep m51 a b&age r\nd ! head1 9 _m cases drawn ?r\gh silv] r+s l bangles4 ,"o _h a tall :ite hat l a truncat$ cone1 ) a flat brim1 a head-cov]+ ,i rememb]$ see+ 9 ,nak*u4 ,_! guns1 ) ! milit>y p5nants on ! =ks1 !y _h slung ov] _! %\ld]s1 & _! sabres /uck out horizontally f _! girdles 9 silv]-b\nd scabb>ds decorat$ ) ?ree pieces ( imitation coral4 ,ov] ! left %\ld] "s c>ri$ a :ole b&oli] ( gao cases ) glass fronts1 ?r\gh :i* 7 visible ! little innoc5t gods :i* br+ _! we>]s good =tune on _! j\rney4 ,_! fat little horses /amp$ & snort$1 long+ = _! old well-kn[n pa/ures on ! %ores ( ! ,ky>+-tso4 ,!y also 7 deck$ ) ne$lessly heavy b da9ty ornam5ts4 ,! :ite horses ) r$ rid]s on _! backs made a p>ticul>ly /rik+ picture4 ,x 0 a v>i$ sc5e 9 ! blaz+ sun%9e1 ) ! sn[y summits ( ,t>go-gangri z a backgr\nd & ,na9 ,s+'s lake to ! nor?4 ,i begg$ !m to greet ,hlaje ,ts]+ he>tily f me1 & tell him t ,i hop$ to see him aga94 ,& !n !y /ruck _! heels into _! horses1 drew toge!r into close ord]1 & trott$ gaily up to ! level surfaces ( ! riv] t]races4 ,captivat$ by ! appe>ance ( ! dep>t+ troop ,i ran aft] x1 & wat*$ ! d>k column gr[ small] at ! r$ spur1 :]e ! old %ore l9es seem$ to run toge!r4 ,s+ul> p6 ,!y rise l gobl9s f ! dep?s ( _! valleys1 !y come "o kn[s n :5ce1 !y1 l u1 visit = a few %ort days ! foot ( ! sn[y m\nta91 & !n !y vani% aga9 l a :irlw9d 9 ! du/ ( ! horses' ho(s & beyond ! my/]i\s horizon4 ,we1 too1 set out1 & ,i left ! ,dangra-yum-tso to its fate1 ! d>k-blue wat]s to ! blu/]+ /orm & ! song ( ! ris+ waves1 & ! et]nal sn[fields to ! :isp] ( ! w9ds4 ,may ! *ang+ col\rs ( ! seasons1 ! beauty ( atmosph]ic effects ( light & %ade1 gold1 purple1 & grey1 pass ov] ,padma ,sambhava's lake amid/ ra9 & sun%9e1 z already = untold ?\s&s ( ye>s1 & ! /eps ( believ+1 ye>n+ pilgrims draw a *a9 ar\nd its %ores4 ,accompani$ by ,rob]t & our ag$ guide1 ,i rode across ! riv]1 :i* c>ries ab\t #adj cubic feet ( wat]1 & up to a spur ( ,t>go-gangri 9 ord] to procure a rock specim54 ,"o glaci] tongue aft] ano!r ( ! long s]ies on ! ea/ side ( ! m\nta9 passes out ( sight1 & n[ ! gap disappe>s ?r\gh :i* we _h se5 a corn] ( ! lake1 & f> away to ! nor? on its o!r side ! outl9es ( light-blue m\nta9s4 ,six hundr$ %eep 7 graz+ on a slope )\t %eph]ds4 ,n[ & !n a h>e 0 />t$ 9 ! ?ick tufts ( /eppe grass4 ,f ! screes on our "r 0 he>d ! pleasant *irp ( p>tridges4 ,:5 we 7 f> away two %eph]ds came up out ( a gorge & drove ! %eep d[n to ! riv]4 ,at ! l[] end ( ! mora9e ( a glaci] /ood a solit>y t5t4 ,i ask$ our old man :at ! spot 0 call$1 b he swore by ?ree diff]5t gods t he _h no notion4 ,! mo/ s\!rn outskirt ( ,t>go-gangri hid ! re/ ( ! range1 b be=e we rea*$ camp ,no4 #aea x appe>$ aga9 =e%ort5$4 ,?is camp /ood on ! left bank ( ! riv]4 ,illu/ration3 #bjb1 #bjc1 #bjd4 ,,t>go-,,gangri ,,f ,,! ,,s\?4 ,may #a4 ,spr+ is come2 we h1 inde$1 _h z mu* z #bi degrees ( fro/ dur+ ! prec$+ nights1 b ! days are f9e & cle>1 & x is nev] z try+ z 9 ! ,*ang-tang1 ev5 rid+ aga9/ ! w9d4 ,at camp ,no4 #aej we _h be5 at a height ( #ae1ddf feet2 n[ we g sl[ly d[n1 foll[+ ! riv] at fir/1 b leav+ x on ! left :5 we see x em]ge f ! m\nta9s z ?r\gh a gate4 ,ov] a s+ul>ly uni=m & cont9u\s pla9 )\t fissures or undulations we n[ approa* 9 a s\?-we/]ly direction ! ?re%old :i* sep>ates ! ,%uru-tso f ! ,dangra-yum-tso4 ,on ! s\?-we/ side ( ,tangro-gangri appe> six glaci]s1 mu* small] ?an ^? on ! nor? & ea/1 & r to be reg>d$ z spurs & corn]s ( ! ice mantle :i* cov]s ! high] regions ( ! massive4 ,! ,%uru-tso is se5 z a f9e blue l9e4 ,we approa* its %ore & f9d t ! lake is completely froz5 ov]4 ,we make a halt to photograph & to draw a panorama4 ,our old man smokes a pipe1 & ,rob]t & ,ta%i try :i* c snore l\de/4 ,:5 ,i am ready we sneak (f quietly f ! two sleep]s4 ,ta%i is ! fir/ to awake1 und]/&s ! joke1 & also sneaks (f4 ,at la/ ,rob]t awakes & f9ds himself alone1 b he soon ov]takes u on 8 mule4 ,n[ we h ! lake close on our "r4 ,to ! s\? rise gr& m\nta9s1 "o ( ! l(tie/ *a9s ( ! ,trans-,himalaya1 rav5 black b5ea? ! sun1 b ! firn-fields glitt] ) a metallic lu/re4 ,consid]able t]races skirt ! bank1 & ! valleys runn+ d[n f ! ea/ to ! lake cut ?r\gh !m1 =m+ holl[ ways 9 :i* a solit>y t5t /&s "h & !re gu>d$ by a savage dog4 ,we encamp on ! t]race above ! ,p>va valley1 our eight black t5ts contra/+ /rongly ) ! yell[ soil 7#ae1eid feet74 ,our old ,tibetans f ,kyangdam n[ bid u f>ewell & receive d\ble paym5t z a pres5t4 ,9 front ( u are ! congeal$ wat]s ( ! ,%uru-tso1 long+ to be releas$ by ! w>m spr+ w9ds2 to ! s\? rises ! ,d-ts5gkan1 a mighty elevation clo!d 9 et]nal sn[2 9 ! s\?-we/ ! sun s9ks beh9d ! huge cre/ ( ! m\nta9s & ! %ad[s pass sil5tly across ! ice4 ,soon ! ev5+ r$ l+]s only on ! peaks ( ,t>go-gangri & ,d-ts5gkan1 & !n ano!r night falls ov] ! e>?4 ,x is a pity t ! ,tibetans d n und]/& ! relations ( ! sun & ! planets1 = !y might reg>d ! sol> sy/em z a unique immeasurable pray]-mill revolv+ 9 space to ! glory ( ! gods4 ,9 ! d>kness ! l(ty m\nta9s to ! nor?-we/ are mi/y & indi/9ct1 b :5 ! moon rises !y & ! lake are illum9at$ alike & seem to be connect$4 ,f our t]race we seem to h a bottomless abyss bel[ u4 ,on ,may #b we ride s\?w>ds along ! %ore 7,illu/4 #bje74 ,l ! ,dangra-yum-tso1 ! ,%uru-tso runs almo/ nor? & s\?1 ly+ 9 a longitud9al valley :i* has ?is direction1 s unusual 9 ,tibet4 ,!re is op5 wat] along ! bank1 & ! waves spla% aga9/ ! edge ( ! por\s ice1 on :i* wild ducks sit1 (t5 9 long r[s4 ,ow+ to ! swell ! wat] on ! bank is black ) decay$ alg & rott+ wat]-we$s1 9 :i* wild geese cackle & scream4 ,z we come to ! regul>ly curv$ s\!rn %ore ( ! lake1 ) its bank ( s&1 we see ! well-kn[n signs ( a /orm on ! pla9 be=e u1 :ite du/ swirls1 /irr$ up 9 spirals f ! gr\nd by ! w9d1 l ! smoke ( a %ot4 ,aft] a "t we f9d ourselves 9 ! pa? ( ! /orm--x w n ne$ _m su* /orms to break up ! :ole lake & drive its loos5$ ice-%eets to ! ea/]n bank4 ,we ride across ! riv] ,kyangdam-tsangpo1 :i* comes f ! ,trans-,himalaya1 & biv\ac on its we/]n t]race 7#ae1edh feet74 ,"h we h ! :ole lake 9 front ( u to ! nor?1 & beh9d x ,t>go-gangri1 n[ small] aga94 ,"h our att5dants 7 *ang$4 ,! ,l>gep *ief1 :o _h be5 s ov]be>+ at fir/1 0 z meek z a lamb at ! mom5t ( p>t+1 & gave me a kadakh1 a %eep1 & f\r sk9s ( butt]4 ,e morn+ :5 ! c>avan sets out ,i%e comes to my t5t to fet* my two puppies2 ,muham$ ,isa has ! ?ird1 :i* he means to tra9 up to be a wond]ful animal1 & ! f\r? has be5 consign$ to ,sonam ,ts]+4 ,!y h gr[n a deal already1 & h[l & bite ea* o!r on ! m>*1 :5 !y ride 9 a basket on ! back ( a mule4 ,!y are graceful & playful1 & give me great amusem5t ) _! tricks4 ,f ! little pass ,dunka-la we _h a gr& & in/ructive view ov] ! great ,%uru-tso1 :i* is ( a some:at elongat$ =m & is convex to ! we/4 ,next day we cross$ ! pass ,b5-la 9 a s\?-we/]ly /orm4 ,x rag$ & blew day & night1 b ! air rema9$ q cle>4 ,on ! #f? we rode up a /eep pa? to ! ,angd5-la4 ,9 ! r deep sn[ & ! tir+ rubbi% ! horses c get on only a /ep at a "t1 & h (t5 to /op & re/4 ,ts]+ rides pa/ u ) 8 yak c>avan1 & f\r ,ladakis h /ay$ beh9d 9 ! valley suff]+ f acute heada*e4 ,at ! top ( ! pass 7#ah1ead feet7 /&s a huge cairn ) /r+s & /ream]s1 _! pray]s ris+ to ! dwell+s ( ! gods on ! w+s ( ! w9d 7,illu/s4 #bjg1 #bji1 #baj74 ,illu/ration3 #bje4 ,,! ,,%uru-,,tso1 ,,) ,,t>go-,,gangri ,,9 ,,! ,,backgr\nd4 ,no words c describe ! panorama ar\nd u4 ,we /& above a sea ( m\nta9s ) "h & !re a pr$om9ant peak4 ,to ! s\? we see ! ,himalayas cle>] & %>p] ?an be=e1 & c p]ceive :]e ! valley ( ! ,brahmaputra runs on ?is side ( ! :ite ridge4 ,to ! nor? ! ,%uru-tso is mu* =e%ort5$1 & ! ,dangra-yum-tso is hidd5 by ,t>go-gangri1 :i* is %>ply def9$1 ?\gh we are six days' j\rney f x4 ,nay1 ev5 ! cont\rs ( ! mighty m\nta9s on ! nor?-ea/ %ore ( ! lake1 :i* we saw 9 w9t] f ! nor?1 are di/+ui%able1 & !y lie fully t5 days' j\rney f "h4 ,i sit at ! fire1 draw+ & mak+ obs]vations1 z on all ! passes4 ,i am aga9 on ! ,trans-,himalaya1 #ec miles f ! ,*ang-la-,pod-la1 & n[ cross x = ! ?ird "t4 ,nor?w>ds ! wat] dra9s to ! ,%uru-tso1 s\?w>ds to ! ,raga-tsangpo4 ,my feet /& on ! oceanic wat]%$1 my eyes roam ov] ?is huge sy/em1 :i* ,i love z my own possession4 ,= ! "p :]e ,i n[ /& 0 unkn[n & wait$ millions ( ye>s = my com+1 la%$ by innum]able /orms1 wa%$ by autumn ra9s1 & wrapp$ 9 sn[ 9 w9t]4 ,) e new pass on ! wat]%$ ( ! gigantic riv]s ( ,india :i* ,i h ! good =tune to cross1 my desire & hope become ev] great] to foll[ its w9d+ l9e we/w>ds to regions already kn[n1 & to fill up on ! map ! great :ite blank nor? ( ! ,tsangpo4 ,i "k v well t g5]ations ( explor]s w be necess>y to exam9e ?is mighty intricate m\nta9 l&1 b my ambition w be satisfi$ if ,i succe$ 9 mak+ ! fir/ reconnaissance4 ,we leave ! cairn & ! fire1 its smoke cov]+ ! summit ( ! pass z ) a torn veil1 & foll[ ! brook1 ( :i* ! wat] w "s day rea* ! w>m sea aft] a ?\s& exp]i5ces4 ,i turn a page & beg9 a new *apt] 9 my life z an explor]2 ! desolate ,*ang-tang rema9s beh9d me1 & ,t>go-gangri s9ks bel[ ! horizon--%all ,i ev] see its maje/ic peaks aga98 ,we desc5d rapidly ) ! w9d 9 our faces4 ,l>ge blocks ( ice fill ! valley bottom betwe5 walls ( black s*i/s & porphyry4 ,sev]al l>ge side valleys op5 into ours1 & des]t$ he>?s are signs ( ! visits ( nomads 9 summ]4 ,our valley unites ) ! l>ge ,kyam-*u valley1 :i* is #f miles broad & desc5ds f ! ,%a-la1 ! pass ( ! ,trans-,himalaya ov] :i* our ,tibetans _h wi%$ to guide u4 ,! l& r\nd ! nomad t5ts ( ,kyam is flat & op54 ,on ,may #g we m>* on 9 a t]rible w9d ) ! blue mirror ( ! ,am*ok-tso on ! s\?4 ,! gr\nd is flat & h>d4 ,a h>e runs l ! w9d1 z if 8 life 7 9 dang]1 ov] ?is flat1 :]e he _c f9d ! slighte/ cov]4 ,eight sprightly antelopes %[ u _! graceful pr(iles z !y spr+ lightly along1 ris+ f ! horizon aga9/ a backgr\nd ( sky4 ,rob]t has drawn 8 fur ov] 8 head1 & sits 9 ! saddle l a lady1 ) bo? 8 legs dangl+ on ! %elt]$ side1 :ile ,ta%i leads 8 mule4 ,b z ! w9d /ill bl[s ?r\gh him1 he lays himself on 8 /oma* across ! saddle4 ,my horse sways :5 ! w9d cat*es ! broad brea/ ( its rid]4 ,! w9d h[ls & moans 9 my e>s1 x :9es & :i/les z x us$ to d 9 ! ,*ang-tang1 a :ole ho/ ( indignant spirits ( ! air seem to compla9 ( all ! mis]y !y h se5 9 ! _w4 ,! pla9 is call$ ,am*ok-tang1 & we m>* ov] x1 foll[+ ! ma9 /ream4 ,am*ok-yung is a village ( five t5ts1 :]e are "s f9e manis b$eck$ ) yak skulls1 antelope horns1 & slabs ( s&/one1 "o ( !m1 ( a regul> rectangul> =m1 measur+ #dj in*es4 ,! inhabitants ( ! village disappe>$ z if by magic2 only an old man gave u 8 company z we inspect$ two ( ! t5ts4 ,b :5 we _h ridd5 on1 ! p crept out aga9 f beh9d dung heaps1 hillocks1 & grass tufts1 :]e !y _h hidd5 !mselves4 ,! w9d bores ?ick yell[ s& out ( ! gr\nd into a sp\t1 :i* is s d5se t x looks black on ! %ady side4 ,x w9ds up 9 cyclonic spirals l ! smoke ( a trem5d\s explosion &1 l a /range gho/1 dances across ! pla91 & does n fall to pieces till x rea*es ! foot ( ! ea/]n m\nta9s4 ,illu/ration3 #bjf4 ,,on ,,! ,,upp] ,,raga-,,tsangpo4 ,illu/ration3 #bjg4 ,,angd5-,,la4 ,illu/ration3 #bjh4 ,,*omo-,,u*ong ,,f ,,! ,,ea/4 ,9 our camp ( ?is day1 situat$ on ! nor?-we/ %ore ( ! ,am*ok-tso1 we he>d ,*9ese & ,tibetan (ficials spok5 ( :o 7 %ortly to ride ?r\gh ! c\ntry 9 all directions1 c\nt+ ! t5ts1 p1 & h]ds4 ,x 0 ?\ght t ?is inspection 0 connect$ ) ! new taxation :i* ! ,*9ese int5d to introduce4 ,my boat lay ready on ! /r&1 = ,may #h 0 to be devot$ to an excursion on ! ,am*ok-tso4 ,,*apt] ,,xxxviii ,,to ,,! ,,outlet ,,( ,,! ,,*aktak-,,tsangpo ,,9 ,,! ,,brahmaputra ,! lake 0 free f ice1 & only on ! nor!rn %ore "s blocks rock$ on ! surf4 ,a s\?-we/ w9d swept con/antly ov] ! c\ntry1 & !re 0 no prospect ( good wea!r4 ,a doz5 ,tibetans foll[$ me at a respectful di/ance4 ,i begg$ !m to come ne>] & see u />t4 ,! boat 0 br\ght d[n to ! wat]1 ,rehim ,ali & ,%ukkur took _! places1 & ,lama c>ri$ me to ! boat ?r\gh ! sl[ly deep5+ wat]4 ,a promontory to ! s\?1 #cd ,e41 0 fix$ z our goal1 & ! o>sm5 began _! /ruggle ) ! waves4 ,= ! fir/ h\r ! lake 0 s %all[ t ! o>s /ruck ! bottom & /irr$ up inky-black mud4 ,%ukkur cries out 9 "t ) ! o>s1 ,%ubasa1 ya af]91 bismillah1 ya b>kadiallah--to cite only a few words ( 8 inexhau/ible rep]toire4 ,rehim ,ali's o> gives me a spla% z x dips 91 b ,i am soon dry aga9 9 ! w9d4 ,! swell /irs up ! mud f ! bottom1 & ! wat] is s %all[ t ! waves %[ a t5d5cy to break ev5 out 9 ! middle ( ! lake4 ,illu/ration3 #bji1 #baj4 ,,angd5-,,la1 ,a ,,pass ,,on ,,! ,,trans-,,himalaya4 ,n[ ! s&sp\ts beg9 _! ?reat5+ dance on ! we/]n %ore1 & 9 t direction ! wat] gleams :ite4 ,! /orm sweeps ov] ! ,am*ok-tso1 & ! two ,mohamm$ans mu/ put =? all _! /r5g? to =ce ! boat =w>d aga9/ w9d & wat]4 ,! swell gr[s heavi]1 ! dep? is #g4i feet1 & ! wat] assumes a gre5] hue4 ,%ukkur ,ali1 our old fi%]man1 puts out 8 l9e1 b no?+ b float+ alg w bite4 ,9 sev]al places are se5 wild ducks1 gulls1 & wild geese4 ,nomads h j arriv$ & are putt+ up _! t5ts 9 a gorge on ! ea/]n %ore4 ,at l5g? we rea* ! promontory1 hav+ s\nd$ a maximum dep? ( only #ab feet4 ,aft] obs]vations h be5 tak51 a panorama sket*$1 & d9n] eat51 we aga9 set (f 9 a nor!rly direction1 & ! boat dances be=e ! brisk w9d lightly z a wild duck ov] ! waves4 ,we sail pa/ ?ree m t5ts1 s\nd #aj4b feet1 & approa* ! nor!rn %ore1 :]e ! wat] is only #bj in*es deep1 & is a muddy s\p4 ,we run agr\nd at a di/ance ( #ajj y>ds f ! bank4 ,rabsang comes up runn+1 lead+ my horse by ! bridle1 & "s o!r ,ladakis foll[ him4 ,!y help u to l&1 & light a mu* ne$$ fire at ! foot ( ! s& t]race :i* "h rises f ! bank4 ,! riv] ,kyam-*u ent]s ! ,am*ok-tso on ! nor? side1 & only #a miles to ! we/ ( its muddy delta ! ,dongmo-*u fl[s out ( ! lake t[>ds its conflu5ce ) ! ,raga-tsangpo 9 ! ea/4 ,prop]ly speak+1 ! ,dongmo is only ! cont9uation ( ! ,kyam-*u1 ) ! lake hang+ l a bag on its "r bank4 ,aft] ! boat has be5 fold$ up1 ,muham$ ,isa has to %[ u ! way on horseback ov] ! grass-gr[n s&hills4 ,he guides me across ! tw5ty %all[ & trea*]\sly swampy delta arms ( ! ,kyam-*u4 ,x is d>k1 b a beacon fire has be5 light$ 9 ! camp1 & ! cakes ( dung are heat$ to :it5ess 9 ! /rong w9d1 & %9e l electric light4 ,next day ,i 0 up be=e ! sun1 9 ord] to take an obs]vation4 ,! !rmomet] _h sunk 9 ! night to #j4c1 & ! w9d blew regul>ly z a trade-w9d4 ,x is pleasant to see ! day dawn 9 ! ea/1 & life beg9 anew among ! t5ts4 ,! hir$ yaks h la9 te!r$ dur+ ! night1 & n[ !y are all[$ to w&] freely ov] ! pa/ure4 ,sleepy yawns are he>d 9 ! t5ts1 & m5 come out & make up ! fires2 ! jug bubbles 9 :i* ! morn+ tea is /irr$ up ) butt]1 & kettles are set on ?ree /ones ov] ! fire4 ,! puppies play 9 ! op51 & are glad t !y h n to roll ab\t to-day 9 a basket4 ,! days & mon?s fly by to a *orus ( /orms1 & spr+ /ill delays its com+4 ,9 ! ev5+ songs ( ! ,ladakis ,i fancy ,i he> an und]tone ( home-sickness1 & !y rejoice at e day's m>* :i* br+s u a little fur!r we/w>ds4 ,:5 we woke next morn+1 x blew z fre% z ev]1 & ,rob]t _h made himself a mask ) ,tibetan spectacles sew$ into ! eye-holes2 he look$ v comical 9 ?is contrivance1 :i* 0 v appropriate 9 ?is l& ( religi\s masqu]ades4 ,! road1 asc5d+ ! broad valley ( ! ,pu-*u1 l$ ov] op51 slightly undulat+ gr\nd to ,s]me-l>tsa4 ,"h old ,guff>u 0 report$ sick2 he suff]$ f colic1 & 0 well nurs$4 ,b late at night ,rob]t came brea?less to my t5t to tell me ! old man 0 dy+4 ,:5 ,i came to ! t5t ! son1 ^: duty x 0 to keep ! %r\d ready1 sat weep+ beside 8 fa!r1 :ile ! o!r m5 w>m$ _! caps ov] ! fire & appli$ !m to ! body ( ! pati5t4 ,i ord]$ him a cold compress1 b he ask$ me1 to ! int5se amusem5t ( o!rs1 j to g back to my t5t aga94 ,muham$ ,isa laugh$ till he roll$ ov]4 ,guff>u sat upright on 8 b$1 moan$ & groan$1 & begg$ me to g away4 ,i gave him a /rong dose ( opium1 & next morn+ he 0 s brisk t he walk$ all ! way1 ?\gh a horse 0 at 8 disposal4 ,! rema9s ( ,burr\ghs & ,wellcome's m$ic9e *e/ _h sav$ 8 life2 he 0 ?ankful & pleas$ t 8 %r\d 0 n requir$ ?is "t4 ,illu/ration3 #baa4 ,,manis ,,on ,,! ,,way ,,to ,,! ,,angd5-,,la4 ,on ,may #aa we m\nt$ to ! pass ,lungr+ 7#ag1fig feet7 9 a bitt]ly cold sn[/orm1 & desc5d$ ! valley ( ! same "n to ! bank ( ! upp] ,raga-tsangpo4 ,on ! #ab? we m>*$ up/ream2 ! valley is broad1 & is b\nd$ on ! nor? by great m\nta9s4 ,! !rmomet] _h sunk to -#j4h1 & ! /orm 0 dead aga9/ u4 ,occasionally x abat$ s mu* t we c\ld he> ! footfalls ( ! horses on ! detritus1 b we 7 b5umb$ :5 we came to ! camp4 ,?ick sn[ fell all ! aft]noon4 ,my puppies sat toge!r 9 ! t5t door & gr[l$ at ! fall+ flakes1 b :5 !y saw x 0 no use1 !y snapp$ at ! flakes z ?\gh !y 7 flies & paw$ at !m4 ,!n !y w5t back into ! t5t1 lay on ! frieze blanket 9 ! corn]1 & let x sn[ on4 ,on ! next day's m>* we pass$ ,kamba-sumdo1 :]e ! two head s\rces ( ! ,raga-tsangpo unite2 ! "o1 com+ f ! we/1 is nam$ ,*ang-%ung1 ! o!r1 f ! s\?-we/1 ,lo-%ung1 i4e4 ,nor!rn & ,s\!rn ,valley4 ,! ,*ang-%ung is ! l>g]4 ,! ,lo-%ung we _h to cross twice1 & f\nd ! b$ full ( /ones connect$ by slipp]y ice4 ,9 ! we/ a l>ge sn[-cov]$ ridge appe>$1 ! ,*omo-u*ong1 or ,high ,nun1 :i* 0 discov]$ by ,na9 ,s+4 ,ryd] measur$ x & produc$ an exact map ( x4 ,belts ( sn[ desc5d f ! :ite summits d[n ! d>k flanks4 ,o!r ,tibetans call$ x ,*oor-jong 7,illu/4 #bab74 ,/ill m>*+ s\?-we/w>ds we approa*$ at an acute angle ! great ma9 road betwe5 ,lhasa & ,ladak1 ! s-call$ tasam4 ,z ?\gh to %[ its importance a c>avan 0 j at ! "t travell+ we/w>ds 9 ?ree columns4 ,x mov$ s sl[ly ?r\gh ! l&scape t we _h to wat* ! m\nta9 spur beh9d to conv9ce ourselves t ! small black l9es 7 mov+ at all4 ,soon aft]w>ds we pit*$ our t5ts 9 ,raga-tasam 7#af1bcd feet71 a /ation on ! great high-road1 :]e we came 9 contact ) ! r\te ( ! ,engli% exp$ition "u ,ryd] & ,rawl+ = ! fir/ "t s9ce leav+ ,%igatse4 ,:atev] ! imm$iate future _h 9 /ore = me1 x 0 above all ?+s my desire to avoid ?is r\te z mu* z possible4 ,= ! map :i* ,ryd] & ,wood _h execut$ is ! be/ t has be5 survey$ ( any "p ( ,tibet2 ,i c\ld add no?+ new to x ) my mode/ equipm5t4 ,b if ,i pass$ to ! nor? or s\? ( _! l9e ( m>*1 ,i c\ld supplem5t _! map ) my own explorations4 ,9 ?is ,i actually s f> succe$$ t out ( eighty-?ree days' m>*es to ,tok*5 on ! ,manas>[> only two-&-a-half days' m>* ran along _! r\te4 ,z ,i n[ p]ceiv$ t we %\ld h to travel on ! road :i* ,na9 ,s+ 9 ! ye> #ahfe1 & ,ryd] & ,rawl+ & _! comrades 9 #aijd1 _h pass$ along1 ,i wrote1 aft] consultation ) ,rob]t & ,muham$ ,isa1 to ,tang ,d>9 & ,li5 ,d>9 9 ,lhasa4 ,i repres5t$ 9 an urg5t appeal to ! =m]1 ! ,high ,commission]1 t x c\ld n cla% ) any treaty if ,i1 be+ already 9 ,tibet1 travell$ to ,ladak by "o road or ano!r1 provid$ t ,i actually did g ?i!r1 & t ,i !re=e begg$ p]mission to take ! foll[+ r\te3 ,i wi%$ to take my homew>d way pa/ ! lake ,t$5am-tso1 ( :i* ,na9 ,s+ _h he>d1 !n to visit ! ,dangra-yum-tso1 & !nce to proce$ to ,tradum & to ! ,ghal>+-tso1 ! holy m\nta9 ,kailas1 ! ,manas>[> lake1 ! s\rces ( ! ,indus & ! ,brahmaputra1 & la/ly ,g>tok4 ,to ! o!r1 ! ,amban ( ,lhasa1 ,i also wrote ab\t ! way ,i desir$ to take1 & promis$ to s5d him a report ab\t x f ,g>tok4 ,i told bo? t ,i wi%$ = a spe$y answ]1 & w\ld wait = x 9 ,raga-tasam4 ,z soon z ,i _h come to a decision1 ,i call$ ,tundup ,sonam & ,ta%i1 & told !m to get _! sleep ov] by midnight4 ,!n ,i wrote ! above-m5tion$ lett]s & lett]s to my p>5ts & to ,major ,o',connor4 ,:5 my correspond5ce 0 ready1 x 0 pa/ midnight4 ,! camp _h la9 sev]al h\rs 9 sleep :5 ,i made ! night wat*man wak5 ! two mess5g]s & ,muham$ ,isa4 ,_! ord]s 7 su* z !y _h nev] receiv$ be=e4 ,!y 7 to travel day & night along ! #bbj miles to ,%igatse & h& ov] my lett]s to ,ma4 ,!y ne$ n wait = an answ]1 = ,i _h ask$ ! ,m&>9s to s5d me special c\ri]s4 ,provisions !y ne$ n take1 = !y w\ld be able to get ev]y?+ on ! great high-road1 & ,i gave !m money to hire ! horses !y requir$4 ,!y w\ld be able to rea* _! j\rney's end 9 t5 days1 & 9 a mon? we ought to h an answ]4 ,if !y did n f9d u 9 ,raga-tasam on _! return1 !y 7 to foll[ 9 our track4 ,tundup ,sonam & ,ta%i 7 9 good spirits & full ( hope :5 ,muham$ ,isa & ,i accompani$ !m outside ! camp1 & wat*$ !m disappe> into ! d>k night4 ,!y made a det\r to avoid ! twelve black t5ts /&+ "h1 le/ ! num]\s dogs ( ! village %\ld b>k4 ,x 0 n f> to ! great high-road1 & at ! next tasam1 z ! /ations are call$1 !y c\ld hire horses at daybreak4 ,muham$ ,isa & ,i sat a :ile 9 my t5t 9 lively conv]sation ab\t our prospects4 ,n till ,i _h crept into b$ aft] a tir+ day did x occur to me t x 0 p]haps cruel to let ! two m5 ride alone day & night ?r\gh ,tibet4 ,b x 0 too late1 !y mu/ n[ fulfil _! mission4 ,!re 0 no hurry n[4 ,we /ay$ "h sev5 days4 ,we/w>ds ! way 0 op51 b n ! way ,i wi%$ to take1 & !re=e we 7 prison]s 9 our own t5ts4 ,pati5ce1 :isp]$ ! ceaseless w9ds4 ,! unkn[n l& lay to ! nor?2 ,i c\ld n give x up till all my ef=ts _h prov$ fruitless4 ,we _h cold unpleasant wea!r1 ) frequ5tly m ?an #cf degrees ( fro/1 & on ! night ( ,may #ae z mu* z #df4d degrees4 ,! ,tibetans said t ?is neighb\rhood is always cold1 ev5 :5 spr+ reigns all ar\nd4 ,i lay on my b$ & read ,david ,copp]field1 ,dombey & ,son1 & ,! ,newcomes1 = ,i _h n[ a :ole libr>y to read ?r\gh1 ! gift ( ! oblig+ ,major ,o',connor4 ,rob]t gave me lessons 9 ,h9du/ani1 & ,i drew types ( ! p4 ,a puppy ( ! same age z our own w>ily came up to my t5t & got a breakfa/4 ,mamma ,puppy 0 by no means pleas$ ) ?is wayside gue/1 :o look$ comical1 z %y & quiet z a m\se2 he sat by ! h\r toge!r at ! fire & look$ at me1 at l5g? fall+ asleep & turn+ on 8 side4 ,:5 he appe>$ aga9 at d9n]1 he 0 ?or\ghly worri$ by ,puppy1 b nev]!less w5t calmly to ! family mat & laid himself d[n4 ,puppy 0 furi\s1 b s dumbf\nd]$ at ?is unexpect$ impud5ce t %e laid h]self d[n on ! gr\nd beside ! mat4 ,tibetans came e day to my t5t & implor$ u to make a />t4 ,:5 ?is prov$ useless1 !y decl>$ at l5g?1 t !y c\ld no long] supply u ) provisions1 = no m 7 to be _h 9 ! neighb\rhood4 ,i ask$ !m1 z an exp]im5t1 :e!r !y w\ld =w>d two lett]s to ! ,m&>9s 9 ,lhasa1 b !y repli$ t !y _h no au?ority to d ?is4 ,!y 7 mu* a/oni%$ :5 !y he>d t ,i _h s5t (f lett]s five days previ\sly4 ,= two days ,i lay 9 b$1 = ,i 0 q at an end ( my /r5g?1 & made ,rob]t read to me4 ,on ,:itsunday1 ,may #ai1 we _h ano!r long palav]4 ,! ,tibetans read to me ! in/ructions !y _h receiv$ f ,lhasa1 :i* 7 dat$ on ! t5? day ( ! second mon? 9 ! ye> ( ! fi]y %eep4 ,i 0 !re call$ ,h$9 ,sahib1 & ! ord]s conta9$ ! foll[+ clauses3 ,s5d him out ( ! c\ntry4 ,let him n turn aside f ! tasam1 & guide him nei!r to ! "r nor to ! left4 ,supply him ) horses1 yaks1 s]vants1 fuel1 grass1 & ev]y?+ he wants4 ,! prices he mu/ pay are ! usual prices fix$ by ! ,gov]nm5t4 ,give him at once any?+ he asks = & refuse him no?+4 ,b if he w n con=m to ! directions on 8 passport1 b says he w take o!r r\tes indep5d5tly1 give him no provisions1 b keep firm hold ( him & s5d (f mess5g]s at once to ! ,deva%ung4 ,d n v5ture to ?9k = y\rselves1 b obey4 ,any "o 9 ! prov9ces :o does n obey w be beat52 s run ! regulations y h to con=m to4 ,if he gives no tr\ble1 see t ! nomads s]ve him well & d him no h>m on ! way to ,g>tok4 ,!n x w be ! bus9ess ( ! ,g>puns 7! two ,vic]oys7 to take him "u _! protection4 ,& yet ,i 0 n satisfi$4 ,i told !m t ,i c\ld n ?9k ( con=m+ to my passport1 :i* 0 contr>y to my religion1 & t ,i mu/ g nor?w>ds f ! ,*omo-u*ong to ,saka-dzong4 ,!y 7 q at lib]ty to s5d mess5g]s to ! ,deva%ung4 ,we w\ld wait4 ,!n !y held a c\ncil1 & at l5g? agre$ to let u take ! nor!rn r\te1 b we mu/ set out on ,may #ba4 ,illu/ration3 #bab4 ,,*omo-,,u*ong ,,f ,,lamlung-,,la4 ,illu/ration3 #bac4 ,,panorama ,,f ,,! ,,ta-,,la4 7,! ,brahmaputra ,valley & ! ,himalayas 9 ! backgr\nd47 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,i lay on my b$ & dream$ ( ! tramp ( horses com+ bo? f ! ea/ & ! we/1 ( ! roads op5 to me to ! my/]i\s m\nta9 sy/em 9 ! nor?1 r\nd :i* my plans & my dreams circl$ cont9ually l "y eagles4 ,s we set out on ,may #ba1 nor?-we/w>ds1 & saw ! summits ( ! ,*omo-u*ong disappe> beh9d its outskirts4 ,f ! camp we c\ld see sev]al valleys 9 ! nor?-we/ dra9$ by ! s\rce /reams ( ! ,raga-tsangpo4 ,j beyond ,raga-tasam we aga9 left ! r\te ( ! ,engli% exp$ition1 & on ! #bbnd climb$ up to ! pass ,ravak-la1 :i* lies on a l[ ridge betwe5 two ( ! s\rce /reams ( ! ,raga-tsangpo4 ,on ! #bcrd we cross$ f\r passes4 ,! ,ki*ung-la is ! wat]%$ betwe5 ! ,raga-lo%ung & ! ,*ungsang1 a riv] :i* takes an indep5d5t c\rse to ! ,tsangpo4 ,! asc5t to ! f\r? pass1 ! ,kanglung-la1 0 v tiresome1 ! gr\nd consi/+ ( wet alluvium1 :]e9 ! horses sank s deep t we pref]r$ to g on foot & spla% ?r\gh ! mud4 ,we 7 n[ on ! heights :5ce ! wat] fl[s d[n to ?ree ( ! nor!rn tribut>ies ( ! ,brahmaputra2 ! ?ird fl[s to ! ,*aktak-tsangpo1 :i* runs to ! we/ ( ,saka-dzong4 ,"h & !re ! sn[1 ow+ to w9d1 melt+ & freez+ aga91 has assum$ ! =m ( upright blades1 two feet high & %>p z a knife4 ,f> to ! s\? appe> p>ts ( ! ,himalayas1 & we are "h 9 a gr& l&scape ( wild & fanta/ic relief4 ,n[ & !n ! view is obscur$ by d5se %[]s ( hail4 ,on ! morn+ ( ! #bd? all ! c\ntry 0 hidd5 by ?ickly fall+ sn[1 & ! wea!r at ! end ( ,may 0 m w9t]ly ?an on ! ,*ang-tang 9 ,decemb]4 ,we ride betwe5 /eep cliffs d[n a deeply erod$ valley1 & side valleys run 9 ) n>r[ deep op5+s4 ,9 "o ( !m is a froz5 wat]fall4 ,we (t5 cross ! cle> wat] ( ! riv] :i* ru%es along on its way to ,saka-dzong & ! ,*aktak-tsangpo4 ,viol5t gu/s ( sn[ sweep ?r\gh ! valley f "t to "t1 & !n we c h>dly see our h&s1 & ! gr\nd & ! m\nta9s become :ite4 ,9 ! beautiful junction ( valleys call$ ,pangsetak our t5ts & ^? ( ! ,tibetans 7 heavily weight$ ) sn[4 ,on ! #be? we g d[n fur!r4 ,nomad t5ts are z r>e z on ! prec$+ days1 = p come "h only 9 summ]4 ,! pa? runs frequ5tly up along ! left t]race1 high above ! valley bottom1 :]e ! riv] has =m$ two l>ge bas9s ( d>k-gre5 wat]4 ,we amus$ ourselves ) roll+ /ones d[n ! /eep slope2 !y knock$ aga9/ o!r b\ld]s1 da%$ ) a ?und]+ noise into ! valley1 te>+ up s& & du/1 b\nc$ up f ! gr\nd1 & f9ally plung$ into ! bas91 rais+ a cl\d ( spray4 ,x 0 *ildi% b v div]t+4 ,! valley passes into a pla91 9 ! s\!rn "p ( :i* runs ! great high-road betwe5 ,raga-tasam & ,saka-dzong4 ,! riv] we _h foll[$ d[n is ! ,kanglung-bup*u1 b 9 ,saka x is call$ ,sa-*u-tsangpo4 ,we pit*$ our camp 9 ! m\? ( ! valley ,basang on ! nor? side ( ! pla94 ,f "h to ,saka-dzong is a %ort day's j\rney4 ,b1 in/ead ( travell+ along ?is road1 :i* ,ryd] has already laid d[n on 8 map1 ,i wi%$ to see ! place :]e ! ,*aktak-tsangpo unites ) ! upp] ,brahmaputra4 ,t w\ld involve a long det\r ( f\r days' j\rney1 & to ?is our fri5ds f ,raga w\ld n cons5t )\t ! p]mission ( ! ,gov]nor ( ,saka4 ,we !re=e /ay$ a day 9 ! ,basang valley1 :ile a mess5g] 0 s5t to him4 ,:5 ! answ] came x 01 to our surprise1 9 ! affirmative1 b "u ! condition t ! ma9 "p ( ! c>avan %\ld proce$ /raight to ,saka-dzong4 ,i ev5 receiv$ a local passport = ! excursion4 ,among o!r natives :o at ?is "t sat = me z models 0 a y\? ( tw5ty ye>s1 nam$ ,ugyu1 :o _h liv$ "s ye>s be=e ) 8 "m & si/]s 9 a valley to ! nor?1 :]e _! t5t 0 attack$ & pillag$ by robb]s4 ,!y _h def5d$ !mselves bravely ) sabres & knives1 b ! robb] b& _h _h fire>ms1 & ,ugyu _h be5 /ruck by a bullet1 :i* _h pass$ ?r\gh 8 %\ld]-blade & lung1 & _h come out at 8 brea/4 ,l>ge sc>s %[$ ! c\rse ( ! bullet4 ,:5 "o rememb]s t ! lead5 bullets ( ! ,tibetans are z l>ge z hazel-nuts1 "o is a/oni%$ t ! boy did n die ( int]nal hmorrhage4 ,he appe>$1 on ! contr>y1 extraord9>ily heal?y & bloom+1 & _h an amiable1 sympa!tic disposition4 ,i sat on a b>ley sack be=e ,muham$ ,isa's t5t & sket*$4 ,mean:ile1 ! baggage & provisions 7 made ready = ! excursion4 ,my excell5t c>avan lead] /ood1 tall & /raight z a pole1 wat*+ ! o!rs fill+ ! sacks we 7 to take ) u4 ,he _h ! boat also & ev]y?+ we want$ = riv] measurem5ts pack$ up4 ,9 ! ev5+ he arrang$ a f>ewell ball = ,ts]+1 ,%ukkur ,ali1 ,rabsang1 ,islam ,ahun1 & ,i%e1 :o 7 to accompany ,rob]t & me to ! ,tsangpo4 ,he _h b\ght 9 ,%igatse a l>ge f9e guit>1 on :i* he play$ himself 9 8 t5t4 ,?is ev5+ ! danc+ & s++ w5t (f m gaily & m]rily ?an ev]4 ,we expect$ good news f ,lhasa1 & 7 glad t ! p 9 ,saka _h grant$ ! p]mission ,i _h ask$ =4 ,on ! morn+ ( ,may #bg ! wea!r 0 really f9e aft] a m9imum ( only #bc2 _h ! spr+ come at la/8 ,! ma9 c>avan _h already gone (f we/w>ds to ,saka1 & my p>ty 0 ready :5 ,muham$ ,isa came to say f>ewell4 ,he 0 ord]$ to rema9 9 ,saka till ,i return$1 & to try by all means to ga9 ! confid5ce ( ! (ficials by fri5dl9ess & prud5t conduct4 ,my small c>avan 0 on ! road to ! s\?1 & we /ood alone on ! des]t$ camp+-gr\nd4 ,aft] he _h receiv$ 8 in/ructions we m\nt$ into our saddles at ! same "t & ,i rode aft] my m54 ,i turn$ once m 9 ! saddle & saw ,muham$ ,isa's /ately =m upright on 8 grey horse1 8 pipe 9 8 m\?1 8 gre5 velvet cap on 8 head1 & ! black %eepsk9 loose on 8 %\ld]1 trott+ quickly 9 ! track ( ! c>avan4 ,x 0 ! la/ "t ,i saw him ?us4 ,soon we cross ! great high-road1 ! tasam1 & ride sl[ly up to ! pass ,gyebuk-la 7#ae1hdf feet71 m>k$ by f\r manis1 :i* are cov]$ ) gre5 flags ( s*i/ ) incis$ ,buddha images4 ,! well-worn pa?1 & ?ree c>avans ( yaks :i* are j com+ ov] ! pass on ! way to ,saka-dzong1 %[ u t ?is is an important trade-r\te4 ,two ( ! c>avans came f ! great t[n ,tsongka-dzong1 :i* lies five days' j\rney s\?w>ds1 n f> f ! fronti] ( ,nepal4 ,f ,saka ! c>avans g ov] ! ,gyebuk-la1 cross ! ,brahmaputra1 asc5d ! ,samd]l+ valley1 & by ! ,sukpu-la & ,negu-la passes rea* ,tsongka-dzong1 :i* supplies ! nomads liv+ 9 ! nor? ) b>ley4 ,f ,gyebuk-la !re is a gr& view ov] ! %>p peaks & ! glaci] tongues ( ! ,*omo-u*ong4 ,on ! s\!rn slopes ( ! pass !re are pama bu%es almo/ ev]y:]e1 & x is pleasant to see _! fre% gre5 ne$les aga94 ,! road runs d[n ! ,ky]kye valley4 ,on a smoo? wall ( rock ,om mani padme hum is hewn 9 *>act]s a y>d high4 ,at camp ,no4 #afg ! ,tibetans ( ! neighb\rhood came k9dly to meet me & bid me welcome1 & two ( !m l$ my horse by ! bridle to my t5t1 z is ! cu/om 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,next day we m>* d[n ! valley ) fre% guides1 & see sev]al ru9s tell+ ( happi] times n[ gone by4 ,t]rac$ /ructures = irrigat+ ! fields indicate t b>ley is gr[n 9 ! di/rict4 ,9 front ( u is n[ ! broad valley ( ! ,brahmaputra1 & we come to an arm ( ! riv] :]e a f]ry is e/abli%$ to transport c>avans & goods on ! way betwe5 ,tsongka-dzong & ,saka-dzong f "o side ( ! riv] to ! o!r4 ,camp ,no4 #afh 0 pit*$ at ! extremity ( ! tongue ( gravel betwe5 ! two riv]s4 ,! ,*aktak-tsangpo _h "h a bread? ( #ib4b feet1 a maximum dep? ( #b4d feet1 an av]age velocity ( #d4ef feet1 & a dis*>ge ( #ffd cubic feet p] second4 ,its wat] 0 almo/ q cle>1 & 9 consequ5ce ( its great] velocity =c$ its way f> into ! muddy wat] ( ! ,brahmaputra4 ,! latt] _h at mid-day a temp]ature ( #dh4i1 :ile ! wat] ( ! tribut>y 0 a little w>m]1 namely1 #di4h4 ,our companions told u t all :o come to ! great riv] dr9k ( ! wat]1 because x comes f ! holy m\nta9 ,kailas1 or ,kang-r9po*e1 9 ! f> we/4 ,%ukkur ,ali sat ) 8 gr\nd l9e at a deep bay ) sl[ eddies & pull$ out ( ! wat] t5 f9e fi%1 a species ( %eat ) f\r s(t b>bs4 ,he _h raw meat z bait on 8 five hooks2 at "o end ( ! l9e a /one 0 ti$1 s t x c\ld be ?r[n f> out into deep wat]1 & ! o!r end 0 made fa/ to a peg driv5 9 to ! bank1 & a /one 0 laid on ! l9e s lightly 9 ! =k ( ! peg t x fell :5 a fi% bit4 ,! fi%]man c !n occupy himself mean:ile ) "s manual "w1 su* z m5d+ %oes4 ,he puts 8 fi% 9 a small enclos$ bas94 ,! fi% _h :ite fle%1 & 7 delicate4 ,on ,may #bi we measur$ ! ma9 riv] at a place :]e a l[ isl& divides x into two *annels #age4e & #ahj4d feet broad respectively1 ) a maximum dep? ( #c4h feet4 ,"h ! ,brahmaputra c>ries #becb cubic feet ( wat]1 & #caif aft] receiv+ ! ,*aktak-tsangpo4 ,at ! conflu5ce ( ! ,dok-*u we _h f\nd only #biff cubic feet1 b ! measurem5t 0 made a mon? & a half e>li]4 ,! ratio ( ! ,brahmaputra to ! ,dok-*u 0 #e3b1 & ( ! ,brahmaputra to ! ,*aktak-tsangpo #g3b4 ,! ,dok-*u is !re=e consid]ably l>g] ?an ! ,*aktak-tsangpo4 ,on ,may #cj we foll[$ ! broad valley ( ! ,*aktak-tsangpo t[>ds ! nor?-we/ & we/-nor?-we/ till we came to a di/rict nam$ ,takbur1 :5ce we int5d$ to ride next day ov] ! ,takbur-la to ,saka-dzong4 ,b x did n come (f2 = be=e ,i 0 awak5$1 came a *ief ) five att5dants & made a horrible di/urbance ) my m5 & our ,tibetans f ,ky]kye4 ,! latt] he beat ) ! flat ( 8 sword1 & he took away f ! =m] ! milk & butt] !y _h b\ght ! ev5+ be=e1 say+ t no "o _h p]mission to sell u provisions4 ,he told ,rob]t t he _h ord]s n to let u pass ?r\gh to ,saka-dzong1 & t he w\ld make u /ay "h ?ree mon?s4 ,we might n hire yaks also--:i* 0 v inconv5i5t1 z we _h only a horse & a mule aft] all ! hir$ animals _h gone4 ,we might n buy provisions2 b ?is 0 n ( mu* consequ5ce1 = ,rob]t _h %ot f\r wild-geese & f\nd a l>ge quantity ( eggs1 & ! riv] 0 full ( fi%4 ,i accord+ly s5t ,islam ,ahun & ,i%e to ,saka ) a message t ,muham$ ,isa %\ld s5d u five horses imm$iately4 ,!n ,i summon$ ! sup]cili\s *ief to my t5t1 :]e he confirm$ ! acc\nts ( my m54 ,he decl>$ t ,i _h no "r to deviate a s+le /ep f ! great high-road1 & t ! di/rict 9 :i* we 7 0 "u him1 n "u ,saka-dzong1 & !re=e ! local passport 0 wor?less4 ,he int5d$ to c>ry out ! ord]s he _h receiv$1 z he valu$ 8 head4 ,:5 ,i told him t ,i %\ld report 8 uncivil behavi\r to ! ,m&>9s 9 ,lhasa1 he jump$ up & drew 8 sword ?reat5+ly1 b :5 he saw t my composure c\ld n be %ak5 he quiet$ d[n4 ,9 ! ev5+ he came to tell u t we might cross ! ,takbur-la1 & br\ght u bo? yaks & provisions4 ,:o he 0 we c\ld nev] discov]1 = 9 ,saka no "o w\ld ackn[l$ge t he knew him4 ,p]haps x 0 only a *ildi% attempt to cure me ( fur!r deviations f ! ma9 road4 ,h[ev]1 x 0 a pity t we _h lo/ a day "h4 ,:5 ! morn+ ( ,june #a dawn$1 ,islam ,ahun & ,i%e came ) our horses1 :i* we did n n[ ne$1 & br\ght me greet+s f ,muham$ ,isa1 :o s5t ^w t all 0 well ) ! c>avan2 !y 7 on fri5dly t]ms ) ! au?orities1 & 7 p]mitt$ to buy all !y requir$4 ,we set (f aga9 nor?w>ds & m>*$ ?r\gh ! ,takbur valley1 :]e !re 0 abundance ( game--h>es1 pheasants1 & p>tridges--"s ( :i* ,ts]+ %ot1 & foxes1 m>mots1 & field-mice4 ,9 ! di/ance we saw a grey pr[l+ animal :i* we took = a lynx4 ,!re 7 also kiangs1 :i* seem$ v unconc]n$4 ,nor?-we/1 nor?1 & nor?-ea/ huge sn[y m\nta9s 7 se5 f ! ,takbur-la 7#af1fba feet71 ( :i* ,ryd] & ,wood _h tak5 be>+s4 ,l ^? ,engli%m51 ,i consid]$ x c]ta9 t ^! peaks lay on ! wat]%$ ( ! ,tsangpo1 & belong$ to ! cre/ ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,i _h aft]w>ds an opportunity ( prov+ t ?is 0 a mi/ake4 ,f ! pass a riv] runs d[n to jo9 ! ,sa*u-tsangpo4 ,"h we saw a numb] ( yaks 9 ! luxuriant grass1 & a ne>ly tame kulan kept !m company4 ,illu/ration3 #bad4 ,,begg> ,,at ,,ta%i-,,gembe4 ,illu/ration3 #bae4 ,,"y ,,tibetan ,,at ,,! ,,m\? ,,( ,,! ,,*aktak-,,tsangpo4 ,illu/ration3 #baf4 ,,w&]+ ,,lama ,,) ,a ,,wood5 ,,glove ,,9 ,,8 ,,h&1 ,,su* ,,z ,,is ,,us$ ,,to ,,protect ,,! ,,h&s ,,9 ,,! ,,pro/ration ,,pilgrimage ,,r\nd ,,! ,,holy ,,m\nta9 ,,kailas4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,:]e ! riv] em]ges into ! ,saka pla91 we pass$ on its left side ov] a la/ small spur ( ! m\nta9 on :i* ! pass is situat$1 & "h ,i re/$ = an h\r ) ,rob]t1 to draw a panorama ( ! int]e/+ c\ntry4 ,ts]+ m>*$ on ) 8 m51 & disappe>$ z a speck on ! great pla94 ,to ! ea/-nor?-ea/ ! :ite h\ses ( ,saka-dzong c\ld be se5 9 ! di/ance1 & ) ! glass we c\ld make out ! camp1 two black t5ts & a :ite1 ! latt] ,muham$ ,isa's4 ,!n we too pass$ across ! pla94 ,on ! left /ood f\r t5ts1 :]e ! %eep 7 be+ driv5 into ! fold = ! night4 ,at "o place ! road divides2 travell]s :o h no?+ to d 9 ,saka-dzong take ! s\!rn road4 ,we cross ! ,sa-*u riv] & ! ov]fl[ ( a spr+2 !re is a /rong w9d f ! we/1 & we long = ! t5ts & ! w>m? ( ! camp-fires4 ,at la/ we are !re4 ,guff>u comes to greet u1 & all ! o!rs call out to u ,salaam6 & ,ju6 ,i look 9 va9 = ,muham$ ,isa's /alw>t figure1 & inquire = him4 ,he is ly+ 9 b$ & has be5 ill all day1 !y answ]4 ,i suppose t he has 8 usual heada*e aga91 g to ! brazi] 9 my t5t1 & let ,rob]t1 z usual1 unpack ! ?+s ,i require = my ev5+ "w4 ,we 7 tir$ & *ill$ ?r\gh & long$ = our supp]4 ,,*apt] ,,xxxix ,,muham$ ,,isa',s ,,dea? ,we _h n be5 sitt+ long :5 ,rabsang came to say t ,muham$ ,isa _h lo/ consci\sness1 & did n answ] :5 he 0 spok5 to4 ,i n[ p]ceiv$ t he _h _h an apoplectic fit1 & hurri$ (f ) ,rob]t to 8 t5t1 :i* /ood close beside m9e4 ,an oil-lamp 0 burn+ beside ! head ( 8 b$1 :]e 8 bro!r ,ts]+ sat weep+4 ,! sick man lay on 8 back1 tall1 /rong1 & /raight4 ,! m\? 0 a little drawn on ! left side1 & ! pupil ( ! left eye seem$ v small1 :ile t ( ! "r eye 0 normal4 ,! pulse 0 regul> & /rong1 beat+ #gb4 ,i at once ord]$ hot bottles to be laid at 8 feet1 & a bag ( ice on 8 head4 ,8 clo!s 7 loos5$2 he brea!d deeply & regul>ly4 ,! eyes 7 half op51 b 7 lu/reless4 ,i call$ 8 "n l\dly1 b he gave little sign2 he tri$ to turn 8 head & move 8 "r arm1 utt]$ a l[ groan1 & !n rema9$ /ill aga94 ,rob]t 0 %ock$ :5 ,i told him t ,muham$ ,isa w\ld n see ! sun rise aga94 ,:ile we 7 sitt+ beside 8 b$ ,i inquir$ ! circum/ances f ,rehim ,ali & ,guff>u1 :o _h be5 ) him all day long4 ,dur+ ! f\r days !y _h wait$ = u "h1 he _h be5 q well1 & _h nev] compla9$ ( heada*e4 ,he _h tri$1 9 accordance ) ! la/ in/ructions ,i _h giv5 him at ! camp 9 ! ,basang valley1 to w9 ! fri5d%ip & confid5ce ( ! au?orities4 ,! day be=e he _h be5 /ill 9 excell5t spirits1 _h drunk tea ) 8 mo/ intimate fri5ds 9 ! c>avan1 & _h sung to ! accompanim5t ( ! guit>4 ,on ?is day1 ,june #a1 he _h got up ) ! sun1 drunk tea1 & _h _h a /ormy int]view ) two ,tibetans f ! dzong4 ,!y _h refus$ to supply ! c>avan ) provisions1 & !n insi/$ t ! c>avan %\ld leave ! place at once4 ,he _h answ]$ t ! ,sahib w\ld soon be back1 & t x w\ld g badly ) !m if !y did n obey him4 ,!y _h gone away 9 ang]1 & !n ,muham$ ,isa _h breakfa/$ ab\t t5 o'clock1 & _h slept an h\r4 ,:5 he rose1 he _h compla9$ ( heada*e4 ,:5 ! sun _h rea*$ its noonday height he _h gone to look out = u1 & _h !n _h a viol5t attack ( sickness1 fall5 on 8 left side & la9 s5seless4 ,! o!r m5 hurri$ up1 c>ri$ him to 8 t5t1 & massag$ 8 body4 ,he 0 re/or$ !reby to consci\sness1 & spoke mu* b indi/9ctly1 & *iefly ) ! god ( ,islam3 ,i 0 a ,lamai/ b w5t ov] to ,islam2 help me n[1 ,o ,allah1 out ( ?is sev]e illness2 let me recov]2 =give me my s9s & all ! wrong ,i h done to o!rs2 let me live1 ,o ,allah1 & ,i w always keep ?y comm&m5ts & w nev] omit my pray]s4 ,!n he _h admoni%$ ! o!rs to d _! duty z h]et(ore1 & ?ank$ !m t !y _h s pati5tly assi/$ him 9 8 mis=tune4 ,n[ & !n he _h ask$ = cold wat]4 ,he _h felt 8 left arm ) 8 "r h&1 & ask$ ^: arm x 01 & _h also said t he did n feel ! %oe on 8 left foot4 ,! :ole left side 0 q p>alys$4 ,sitt+ upright1 & support$ by cu%ions1 he _h made ! foll[+ reque/ to ,guff>u3 ,?\1 :o art old1 & keepe/ ! comm&m5ts ( religion1 wilt n pollute ?y h&s if ?\ take/ a knife & cutte/ my neck2 cut deep d[n to ! sp9e1 = t w relieve my inf]nal heada*e4 ,9 8 fe>ful suff]+ he /ruck 8 "r h& aga9/ a box4 ,ab\t an h\r lat] ano!r /roke depriv$ him ( spee*1 & aft] t he _h only made a sign ) 8 "r h&1 z ?\gh 9 despair at ! approa* ( dea?4 ,t[>ds f\r o'clock ,ts]+ _h come & ?r[n himself ov] him1 weep+ l\dly4 ,muham$ ,isa _h also wept1 & po9t$ to 8 lips to intimate t he c\ld n speak4 ,:5 we ent]$ 8 t5t ab\t five o'clock 8 consci\sness 0 almo/ gone4 ,he rema9$ 9 ! same condition = an h\r & a half1 brea?+ quietly1 ) 8 m\? clos$4 ,i w5t !re=e to my d9n]1 :i* ,adul _h prep>$ = me4 ,rob]t & ,i /udi$ ,burr\ghs & ,wellcome's m$ical h&book1 to see t no?+ _h be5 omitt$4 ,ab\t eight o'clock we return$ to ! sick-b$4 ,muham$ ,isa 0 n[ brea?+ ) 8 m\? op5--a bad sign1 %[+ t ! muscles ( ! jaws 7 relax$2 ! pulse beat #ajh1 & 0 v weak4 ,! despair ( old ,ts]+ :5 ,i told him all hope 0 gone1 0 he>t-r5d+4 ,half an h\r lat] ! brea?+ became sl[] & weak]1 & ab\t n9e o'clock ! dea?-rattle comm5c$1 & ! /ruggle ( ! muscles ( ! *e/ to supply ! lungs ) suffici5t air4 ,ab\t e =tie? respiration 0 deep1 & !n !re 0 a pause be=e ! next came4 ,!y 7 foll[$ by moans4 ,8 feet grew cold 9 spite ( ! hot bottles1 :i* 7 frequ5tly *ang$4 ,at a qu>t]-pa/ n9e ! brea?+ became /ill sl[] & ! int]vals long]4 ,a dea? spasm %ook 8 body & slightly rais$ 8 %\ld]s2 x 0 foll[$ by ano!r4 ,! ,mohamm$ans :isp]$ to ,ts]+ t he %\ld leave 8 place at ! head1 = a ,mohamm$an mu/ hold ! l[] jaw & close ! m\? aft] ! la/ brea?4 ,b ! sorr[+ bro!r c\ld only be br\ght to leave 8 place by =ce4 ,a ?ird & la/ spasm %ook ! dy+ man1 produc$ by ! cold ( dea?4 ,aft] a deep respiration he lay /ill = #bj seconds4 ,we ?\ght t life _h fl[n1 b he brea!d aga91 & aft] ano!r m9ute came ! la/ feeble brea?1 & !n old ,guff>u b\nd a clo? "u ! *9 & cov]$ ! face ) a :ite k]*ief4 ,!n all 0 /ill1 &1 deeply mov$1 ,i b>$ my head be=e ! awful maje/y ( ,dea?4 ,illu/ration3 #bag4 ,,! ,,corpse ,,( ,,muham$ ,,isa4 ,horrifi$ & dismay$1 ! ,mohamm$ans p\r$ into ! t5t1 & ! ,lamai/s aft] !m1 & ,i he>d !m f "t to "t call out 9 l[ tones1 ,la illaha il ,allah6 ,ts]+ 0 beside himself3 he knelt by ! dead1 beat 8 =ehead ) 8 h&s1 wept al\d1 nay1 h[l$ & bell[$1 :ile l>ge te>s roll$ d[n 8 furr[$ sunburnt face4 ,i patt$ him on ! %\ld]1 & begg$ him to try & compose himself1 g into 8 t5t1 dr9k tea1 & lie d[n & re/4 ,b he nei!r he>d nor saw1 & ! o!rs _h to c>ry him to 8 t5t1 & ,i he>d him wail+ 9 ! night z long z ,i lay awake4 ,yes1 ,dea? is an awful gue/4 ,we c\ld h>dly realize t he _h s sudd5ly ent]$ our peaceful camp4 ,i _h a long conv]sation ) ,rob]t 9 my t5t1 & old ,guff>u 0 s5t = to receive my ord]s = ! fun]al4 ,! ,mohamm$ans 7 to wat* 9 turn beside ! body ?r\gh ! night4 ,e>ly next morn+ ! p]mission ( ! au?orities w\ld be obta9$ = ! *oice ( a bury+-place1 & !n ! int]m5t w\ld take place4 ,at midnight ,i paid a la/ visit to my excell5t1 fai?ful c>avan lead]1 :o _h fall5 at 8 po/ 9 ! prime ( life4 ,he lay long & /raight1 swa!d 9 a %r\d & a frieze rug1 9 ! middle ( 8 t5t4 ,at 8 head burn$ 8 oil-lamp1 slightly flick]+ 9 ! draught4 ,! dead wat* ( five m5 sat mute & motionless1 b rose :5 ,i ent]$4 ,we uncov]$ 8 face2 x 0 calm & dignifi$1 & a slight smile play$ r\nd ! lips2 ! col\r 0 pale1 b slightly bronz$ f ! effect ( w9d & sun 7,illu/4 #bag74 ,ar*$ ov] him 0 ! half-d>k bell ( ! t5t--! t5t :i* _h flutt]$ 9 all ! w9ds ( heav5 on ! way ?r\gh ! ,*ang-tang1 & f :i* ,muham$ ,isa's m]ry je/s _h s (t5 be5 he>d 9 quiet cold ,tibetan nights amid/ ! s\nd ( flutes & guit>s4 ,n[ depress+ sil5ce reign$ ar\nd2 only ! />s sp>kl$ ) electric brilliancy4 ,h[ empty & dre>y ev]y?+ seem$ :5 ,i woke on ,sunday1 ,june #b1 ! day ( ,muham$ ,isa's fun]al6 ,i w5t out & look$ at ! grave2 x lay ab\t #cjj y>ds to ! s\?-we/ ( ! camp4 ,! ,mohamm$ans _h be5 e>ly 9 ! village to borr[ a door1 & _h wa%$ ! body on x4 ,!n !y _h wrapp$ x 9 ,guff>u's %r\d1 :i* 0 ( ?9 l951 b q :ite & clean4 ,muham$ ,isa & ,i _h (t5 laugh$ toge!r ov] ! old man's s+ul> fancy ( tak+ ?is dea? g>m5t on ! j\rney4 ,ov] ! %r\d 7kafan7 !y _h wrapp$ a grey frieze rug4 ,! body lay n[ 9 ! bright sun%9e be=e ! t5t1 on a bi] consi/+ ( ! bottom ( ! two halves ( ! boat fa/5$ toge!r1 & provid$ ) f\r cross-poles = ! be>]s4 ,:5 all 0 ready ! eight ,mohamm$ans rais$ ! bi] on to _! %\ld]s1 & c>ri$ _! *iefta9 & lead]1 royally tall1 /raight & cold1 to 8 la/ re/+-place4 ,i walk$ imm$iately beh9d ! bi]1 & !n came ,rob]t & "s ,lamai/s2 ! re/ 7 occupi$ at ! grave1 & only two rema9$ 9 ! camp1 :i* c\ld n be left ungu>d$4 ,f ,ts]+'s t5t a despair+ wail+ c\ld /ill be he>d4 ,he _h be5 p]suad$ n to come to ! grave4 ,he 0 he>t & s\l a ,lamai/1 & n[ he 0 tr\bl$ at ! ?\ght t he w\ld nev] see 8 bro!r aga91 :o _h look$ =w>d to ! p>adise ( ! ,mohamm$ans4 ,"s ,tibetans /ood at a di/ance4 ,sl[ly1 solemnly1 & m\rnfully ! procession set itself 9 motion 7,illu/4 #bah74 ,no r++ ( bells1 no /rewn fir-bran*es1 no *ants spoke ( an awak5+ beyond ! valley ( ! %ad[ ( dea?4 ,b above u ! turquoise-blue sky /ret*$ its vault1 & ar\nd u ! l(ty1 desolate m\nta9s held wat*4 ,9 deep m\rnful voice ! be>]s sang1 ,la illaha il ,allah1 9 "t ) _! heavy /eps4 ,!y /agg]$ "u _! burd51 & _h to *ange x frequ5tly to ! o!r %\ld]1 = ,muham$ ,isa 0 big1 corpul5t1 & heavy4 ,illu/ration3 #bah4 ,,muham$ ,,isa',s ,,fun]al ,,procession4 ,at l5g? we asc5d$ a gravel t]race betwe5 two s\rce /reams4 ,! bi] 0 plac$ at ! edge ( ! grave1 :i* 0 n q ready 7,illu/s4 #bai1 #bbj1 #bba74 ,x 0 deep1 lay nor? & s\?1 & _h a cutt+ or ni*e on ! left side1 "u :i* ! body 0 to be laid1 s t ! e>? might n press on x :5 ! grave 0 fill$ 94 ,f\r m5 /ood 9 ! grave & receiv$ ! body1 & plac$ x1 wrapp$ only 9 ! :ite %r\d1 "u ! ar*1 arrang+ x s t ! face 0 turn$ t[>ds ,mecca1 :]e ! hopes ( all true believ+ pilgrims are c5tr$4 ,sc>cely 0 all set 9 ord] :5 a pa9ful incid5t occurr$1 an evil om53 ! ov]hang+ vault ( loose1 dry gravel fell 91 bury+ ! corpse completely1 & p>tly cov]+ ! f\r m54 ,!re 0 sil5ce1 & ! m5 look$ at "o ano!r irresolute4 ,%ukkur ,ali broke ! oppressive sil5ce1 jump$ into ! grave1 out ( :i* ! o!rs clamb]$1 dug out ! body aga91 & remov$ ! gravel f ! %r\d z well z he c\ld4 ,a wall 0 !n erect$ ( sods cut f ! bank ( ! brook s z to protect ! body1 ! out] space 0 fill$ 9 ) s& & /ones1 & f9ally a m\nd a y>d high 0 ?r[n up ov] ! grave1 two /one slabs be+ plac$ at ! head & foot4 ,:5 all 0 done ! ,lamai/s w5t home1 b ! ,mohamm$ans rema9$ at ! grave to pray = ! deceas$1 sometimes kneel+1 sometimes /&+ up ) _! palms be=e _! face4 ,%ukkur ,ali1 :o _h be5 ,muham$ ,isa's old fri5d & comrade on _m ( 8 j\rneys 9 ,asia1 broke out into viol5t weep+ & wail+1 b ! o!rs m\rn$ m quietly4 ,f9ally1 ,i said a few words 9 ,turki4 ,dur+ all my j\rneys ,i _h nev] _h a m effici5t1 exp]i5c$1 & fai?ful c>avan lead]2 he _h ma9ta9$ discipl9e 9 ! c>avan1 be5 a fa!r to ! m51 & tak5 ! be/ c>e ( ! animals2 he _h be5 an excell5t int]pret]1 & _h treat$ ! natives ) prud5ce & tact4 ,by 8 happy1 humor\s disposition he _h kept all ! o!rs 9 good temp]4 ,9 difficult situations he _h always f\nd ! "r way out4 ,9 unkn[n c\ntry he _h climb$ passes & summits to look = ! be/ r\te--he _h always gone himself & n s5t o!rs4 ,8 memory w\ld always be *]i%$ & hon\r$ among u1 & he _h also e>n$ a great "n 9 ! exploration ( ,asia1 = dur+ ?irty ye>s he _h s]v$ _m o!r ,sahibs z fai?fully & hone/ly z myself4 ,we w5t sil5tly home aft] our day's "w4 ,9 ! lection>y ( ?is ,sunday occurr$ ! ,bible text1 ,?\ fool1 ?is night ?y s\l %all be requir$ ( !e4 ,muham$ ,isa _h travell$ f>1 & 0 highly respect$ 9 ,asia4 ,he _h be5 9 ,saka-dzong be=e1 9 ! ye> #aijd1 z ,rawl+ & ,ryd]'s c>avan lead]4 ,he little ?\ght !n t he w\ld return once m1 & "h set up 8 t5t = ! la/ "t aft] 8 long w&]+s4 ,9 ! ,geographical ,j\rnal ( ,april #aiji1 p4 #dbb1 ,rawl+ ref]s to him z foll[s3-- ,hav+ m5tion$ ,saka ,dzong1 let me break (f "o mom5t to pay a tok5 ( respect to ! memory ( t fai?ful s]vant ( ,sv5 ,h$9 :o di$ "h4 ,moham$ ,isa 0 "o ( ! f9e/ *>act]s x has be5 my =tune to be ?r[n )4 ,tru/wor?y & indomitable 9 8 "w1 8 k ( ,asia 0 unequall$ by any native1 = he _h accompani$ ,y\nghusb& 9 8 fam\s j\rney f ,*9a1 he 0 ) ,c>ey1 ) ,dalglei% :o 0 aft]w>ds murd]$1 & ) ,dutreuil de ,rh9s1 :5 he 0 a helpless witness ( 8 ma/]'s viol5t dea? at ! h&s ( ! ,tibetans4 ,he act$ z my c>avan ba%i 9 ! ,g>tok exp$ition1 accompani$ ,sv5 ,h$9 dur+ 8 rec5t j\rney1 & di$1 aft] ?irty ye>s ( fai?ful s]vice1 at ?is desolate spot4 ,f lett]s ,i subsequ5tly receiv$ f ,y\nghusb&1 ,o',connor1 & ,ryd]1 ,i le>n$ t !y also deeply m\rn$ 8 loss4 ,! grave t]race rose close to ! great high-road betwe5 ,ladak & ,lhasa on its nor!rn side4 ,! m\nd 0 next day cov]$ ) cut sods arrang$ 9 /eps1 & a small flag/one 0 set 9 ! gr\nd at ! head ( ! grave1 :]eon pass+ ,mohamm$ans c\ld spread out a c>pet & pray = ! repose ( ! deceas$4 ,on a slab ( slate1 smoo!d d[n ) a *isel1 ,i scrat*$ ! foll[+ inscription 9 ,engli% & 9 ,roman lett]s3 ,,muham$ ,,isa ,,c>avan ,,lead] ,,"u ,,c>ey1 ,,dalglei%1 ,,de ,,rh9s1 ,,y\nghusb& ,,rawl+1 ,,ryd] ,,& ,,o!rs ,,di$ ,,9 ,,! ,,s]vice ,,( ,,sv5 ,,h$9 ,,at ,,saka-,,dzong1 ,,on ,,june #a1 #aijg ,,at ,,! ,,age ,,( #ec ,,ye>s4 ,illu/ration3 #bai1 #bbj1 #bba4 ,,! ,,int]m5t ,,( ,,muham$ ,,isa4 ,! writ+ 0 !n cut 9 ! /one by ,islam ,ahun4 ,! "n 0 also engrav$ 9 ,arabic1 & at ! top ! =mula1 ,om mani padme hum1 9 ,tibetan *>act]s1 t ! p ( ! c\ntry might respect ! grave4 ,future travell]s w f9d ! /one 9 its place--if ! ,tibetans h n tak5 x away4 ,9 ! aft]noon ( ,june #c ,i s5t = ,ts]+ to my t5t4 ,he 0 n[ calm & resign$4 ,he 0 to be my cook & body-s]vant z be=e1 b 8 pay w\ld be rais$ to #bj rupees a mon?1 & ?is rise 0 to date back to our dep>ture f ,leh4 ,he 0 all[$ to keep ! wat* ,i _h giv5 to 8 bro!r4 ,guff>u1 ! olde/ ( ! m51 0 ,muham$ ,isa's successor z c>avan ba%i1 receiv$ ! same increase ( pay z ,ts]+1 & 0 all[$ to use ,muham$ ,isa's grey horse & saddle4 ,9 future he w\ld live ) two o!r m5 9 ! t5t ( ! deceas$4 ,z ,i =esaw t ! discipl9e w\ld n be :at x 0 9 ,muham$ ,isa's "t1 ,i spoke s]i\sly to ! m51 tell+ !m t !y mu/ obey ,guff>u z bl9dly z !y _h 8 pr$ecessor1 t !y ought to hold toge!r z be=e & cont9ue to s]ve me fai?fully4 ,if any "o began to qu>rel & 0 disob$i5t1 he w\ld at once be h&$ ! pay due to him & be s5t (f to g :]e he lik$4 ,n[ t we travell$ ) hir$ yaks ,i c\ld v well sp>e half ! m51 & !re=e x 0 _! int]e/ to conduct !mselves s t !y might be reta9$4 ,rabsang & ,namgyal answ]$ 9 ! "n ( all1 t !y w\ld hold toge!r1 s]ve me fai?fully1 & foll[ me any:]e4 ,!n ,rob]t 0 commission$ to look ?r\gh ! prop]ty ( ! deceas$ 9 ! pres5ce ( ,ts]+1 ,guff>u1 ,%ukkur ,ali1 ,rehim ,ali1 & ! ,hajji1 & aft] he _h made an inv5tory1 to pack x 9 sep>ate boxes1 :i* 7 ultimately to be deliv]$ to 8 wife 9 ,leh toge!r ) 8 out/&+ pay4 ,among 8 ?+s 7 "s articles ( value :i* he _h b\ght 9 ,%igatse--c>pets1 tea-cups ) metal sauc]s & cov]s1 ornam5ts1 & wov5 mat]ials4 ,he _h left beh9d only #aj rupees 9 ready money1 a pro( t he _h be5 ?or\ghly hone/ 9 8 managem5t ( ! bus9ess ( ! c>avan4 ,aft] all relat+ to ! int]m5t _h be5 c>ri$ out1 ! ,mohamm$ans came to ask = a few rupees to enable !m to hold a memorial fea/ 9 ! ev5+ 9 hon\r ( ! deceas$4 ,!y w\ld make a pudd+1 call$ halva1 ( fl\r1 butt]1 & sug>1 dr9k tea1 & kill a %eep4 ,! hea!n also1 z ! ,mohamm$ans call$ _! ,lamai/ comrades1 7 to be pres5t4 ,!y sang1 ate1 & drank1 & probably h>dly ?\ght ( ! dep>t$4 ,two g5tlem5 f ! dzong _h be5 ) me on ,june #b4 ,! ,gov]nor himself 0 abs5t1 travell+ 9 8 prov9ce to numb] ! t5ts "u 8 adm9i/ration & to draw up a li/ ( all ! inhabit$ valleys--all by ord] ( ! ,*9ese4 ,pemba ,ts]+1 ! second 9 comm&1 0 v agreeable & polite1 b regrett$ t he c\ld n supply u ) provisions any long]1 z he mu/ be prep>$ to furni% necess>ies to ! m5 :o 7 con/antly pass+ to & fro betwe5 ,g>tok & ,lhasa4 ,to confirm 8 words he call$ up ! five ,govas or di/rict inspectors ( ! c\ntry1 :o decl>$ t ! poor c\ntry c\ld n supply all ! tsamba & b>ley we requir$4 ,i intimat$ to !m t we %\ld /ill rema9 a few days await+ ! answ] f ,lhasa2 !n !y rose1 prote/+ t ,i might /ay "h z long z ,i lik$1 b t !y w\ld n provide me ) provisions4 ,on ! same day a l>ge :ite-&-blue t5t 0 set up by our camp1 b x 0 n till ,june #d t ! occupants1 ! ,govas ( ,tradum & ,nyuku1 paid me a visit4 ,!y _h he>d ( our long /ay1 & wi%$ to f9d out ! /ate ( affairs = !mselves4 ,! ,nyuku ,gova began ! conv]sation3 ,saka & ,tradum are put d[n on y\r passport1 b n ,nyuku4 ,%\ld y1 nev]!less1 g ?i!r1 ,i w all[ y to /ay "o night1 b n long]1 = x is /at$ 9 ! passport t y mu/ travel /raight to ,tradum4 ,my de> fri5d1 ,i repli$1 :5 once ,i am 9 y\r place we %all become su* good fri5ds t y w ask me to /ay a :ole mon? to consolidate our fri5d%ip4 ,%\ld y aft]w>ds visit me 9 ,india1 y\r visit w be ! m agreeable ! long] x la/s4 ,he nodd$ ) a rogui% smile1 & no d\bt consid]$ me a wag1 b add$ t he mu/ obey ! ord]s he _h receiv$ f ! ,deva%ung4 ,:5 ,i am 9 correspond5ce ) ! ,m&>9s 9 ,lhasa1 & am wait+ = _! answ]1 ! ,deva%ung has no "r to int]f]e4 ,v well1 !n x w be be/ = y to rema9 "h & n come to ,tradum or ,nyuku2 provisions are /ill sc>c] !re4 ,aft]w>ds ,pemba ,ts]+ came aga91 br++ two sacks ( b>ley & a %eep4 ,he _h become mu* m compliant s9ce he _h talk$ ) ! o!r (ficials1 & promis$ he w\ld try to procure :at we ne$$4 ,we _h /ill two poor horses & a mule f ,%igatse1 & he 0 to h "o ( ! animals z a rew>d4 ,aft] "s consid]ation he *ose ! mule4 ,! two horses we sold = a m]e trifle to a /rang]4 ,n[ we long$ to get away f ?is mis]able ,saka-dzong & its sad associations4 ,out 9 ,god's op51 glori\s ,nature ! w9ds bl[ away sorr[4 ,we daily calculat$1 ,rob]t & ,i1 h[ long x w\ld be be=e ,tundup ,sonam & ,ta%i return$4 ,if ! answ] 7 s5t by ! s-call$ ,*9ese fly+ po/1 x might arrive any mom5t4 ,b ! days pass$ & !re 0 no news4 ,"o day "s horsem5 rode pa/ our camp on ! way to ! we/1 & report$ t !y _h se5 my two mess5g]s 9 ,kung ,gu%uk's g>d5 9 ,%igatse1 b !y knew no?+ ( _! fur!r int5tions4 ,pati5ce1 :isp]$ ! we/ w9d aga94 ,9 ! maze ( difficulties 9 :i* we became ev] m involv$1 my hopes re/$ on ! answ] ( ! ,*9am54 ,i _h told ! (ficials "h t ,i w\ld set (f at once if !y w\ld all[ u to take a m nor!rn r\te to ,nyuku1 b1 z !y w\ld n he> ( x1 we rema9$ :]e we 74 ,:5 ,i look$ out ( my t5t my eyes 7 attract$ to ! d>k grave on its hill4 ,x seem$ z if ! grave held u fa/1 ?\gh we long$ to get away f x4 ,all 0 dre>y & dismal2 we miss$ ,muham$ ,isa1 & 8 abs5ce caus$ a great blank4 ,b life goes on z usual4 ,:5 ! sun rises1 ! wom5 ( ! village /roll ab\t collect+ dung into baskets1 :ile ! m5 drive ! yaks & horse to pa/ure4 ,!y s+ & :i/le1 *ildr5 scream & dogs b>k4 ,blue smoke rises f ! *imneys ( ! village or f ! black t5ts /&+ )9 walls among ! h\ses4 ,f ! ro( ( ! ,saka-gompa ) a /atue ( ,padma ,sambhava ! s+le lama ( ! mona/]y bl[s 8 con*4 ,rav5s & blui%-grey pigeons pick up all k9ds ( morsels among ! t5ts1 & ! wolves :i* h come d[n 9 ! night retire aga9 to ! m\nta9s4 ,rid]s & c>avans pass ea/w>ds to a bett] l&1 :]e popl>s1 will[s1 & fruit trees are clo!d 9 _! f9e/ summ] dress4 ,b we are prison]s 9 ?is desolate c\ntry1 ) ,muham$ ,isa's grave z a focus4 ,i soon p]ceiv$ :at a depress+ effect ! loss ( ! big p[]ful c>avan lead] _h on my m53 !y became home-sick4 ,!y talk$ ( ! w>m? ( _! own firesides1 & !y took to cro*et+ & knott+ %oes = _! *ildr5 & acqua9tances4 ,!y ga!r$ r\nd ! ev5+ fire & talk$ ( ! pleasant life 9 ! villages ( ,ladak4 ,rob]t rem>k$ h[ dre>y & disagreeable ,tibet 01 & h[ w>m & delightful x 0 9 ,india2 he 0 p9+ = 8 "m & 8 "y wife4 ,i %\ld l to "k :e!r any "o 0 m eag] to be (f ?an myself1 :o _h s mu* be=e me :i* mu/ be accompli%$4 ,yes1 ,i saw only too pla9ly t ,i c\ld n a*ieve all ,i 0 /riv+ = ) my pres5t c>avan2 x 0 worn out & us$ up1 :i* 0 really n to be wond]$ at aft] all x _h gone ?r\gh4 ,my fate 0 driv+ me back to ,ladak4 ,b ,i mu/ endeav\r to make ! mo/ ( my *ances on ! way4 ,& !n8 ,all 0 d>k to me4 ,b ,i knew t ,i w\ld nev] give 91 & w\ld n leave ,tibet till ,i _h done all t lay 9 my p[] to conqu] ! unkn[n l& on ! nor? ( ! upp] ,brahmaputra4 ,on ! morn+ ( ! #e? came our old fri5d ! ,gova ( ,raga-tasam4 ,he _h he>d t we 7 9 difficulties1 & (f]$ to speak a good ^w on our behalf to ,pemba ,ts]+4 ,aft]w>ds ! two came to my t5t & in=m$ me t ,i might take ! nor!rn r\te to ,nyuku4 ,! ,gova receiv$ "o ( our be/ horses = 8 tr\ble4 ,n[ we _h six left ( our own horses1 among !m ?ree vet]ans f ,leh1 two o!r horses & a mule4 ,next ev5+ ,guff>u came = ! fir/ "t to receive in/ructions1 & on ,june #g we set out e>ly4 ,i /opp$ a mom5t at ! grave4 ,x 0 /rik+ & impos+ 9 all its simplicity4 ,9 its d>k *amb] ! we>y "o slumb]s till ! end ( "t4 ,he li/5s to ! h[l+ ( ! we/]n /orms & ! wolves1 he freezes 9 ! cold ( w9t]1 b he does n see ! summ] sun1 & ) long+ = ! well-rememb]$ pa/ he he>s ! horses /amp+ on ! h>d pebbles4 ,i ?\ght ( ! ,lama ,r9po*e 9 8 d>k d5 at ,l+a4 ,f>ewell1 & grateful ?anks6 ,,*apt] ,,xl ,,along ,,byways ,,to ,,tradum ,! day 0 brilliant2 x 0 n spr+1 x 0 summ]4 ,flies1 wasps1 & gadflies buzz$ 9 ! air1 & worms ( all k9ds crept out ( ! gr\nd to enjoy ! w>m season1 all too %ort "h4 ,x 0 hot1 #gj4b at "o o'clock4 ,! sun seem$ to be z scor*+ z 9 ,india4 ,! ,sa-*u valley wid5s out we/w>ds2 wild-geese1 h]ons1 & ducks sit on ! banks ( ! riv]1 & *\ghs croak on ! m\nta9 :i* we skirt on ! "r side ( ! valley4 ,! fre% grass has spr\t$ out ( ! e>? 9 its gre5 summ] g>b1 b x w n really ?rive till aft] ! w>m ra9s4 ,we meet a c>avan ( #bjj yaks 9 five sections1 ea* ) two :i/l+ driv]s4 ,:5ce h y come8 ,i ask4 ,f ,tabie-tsaka1 :]e we h be5 to fet* salt4 ,:]e does ! lake lie8 ,to ! nor?1 9 ,bongba1 ?irty days' j\rney f "h4 ,does ! road cross ov] high passes8 ,yes1 !re is a high pass twelve days to ! nor?4 ,& !n !y pass$ on ) _! light-/epp+ yaks t[>ds ,saka-dzong4 ,x 0 ! fir/ "t ,i _h he>d ?is important lake m5tion$1 & ,i envi$ ! m5 ( ! salt c>avan :o _h trav]s$ ?is way ?r\gh ! ,trans-,himalaya q unkn[n to ,europeans4 ,illu/ration3 #bbb4 ,,woman ,,at ,,! ,,m\? ,,( ,,! ,,*aktak-,,tsangpo ,,9 ,,! ,,tsangpo4 ,illu/ration3 #bbc4 ,,tibetan ,,( ,,saka4 ,illu/ration3 #bbd4 ,,lama ,,9 ,,saka-,,dzong4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,we left ! tasam on our left2 we turn$ aside nor?-we/w>ds /raight to ! ,t>gyal+-gompa /&+ ) its r$ lhakang1 its small :ite build+s1 & its l>ge *hort5 on a t]race imm$iately above ! spot :]e ,guff>u has pit*$ ! camp4 ,tw5ty lamas came d[n to f9d out :e!r we 7 ?ieves & robb]s :o int5d$ to attack ! conv5t4 ,c]ta9ly n1 ,guff>u answ]$1 we are peaceful travell]s pass+ ! night "h4 ,we w n all[ x1 !y repli$2 y mu/ rema9 on ! high-road4 ,i n[ s5t ,rabsang up1 & he 0 surr\nd$ at ! gate by ?irty monks4 ,he 0 told ! same2 a ,european _h nev] be5 "h1 & none %\ld ev] ent] ! mona/]y4 ,if ! g5tlem5 ( ! dzong attempt$ to get u 91 !y %\ld pay ! p5alty ) _! lives4 ,*>m+ ecclesia/ics6 ,ev5 ,rabsang1 :o 0 a ,lamai/ & wore sev]al gaos on 8 neck1 0 n all[$ 94 ,he 0 9 ! s]vice ( a ,european4 ,s inimically dispos$ 7 ^! monks t !y /opp$ up ! *annel we drew our wat] f4 ,! ,deva%ung1 !y said1 _h no?+ to d ) !m4 ,we _h he>d 9 ,saka-dzong t ^! monks 7 bellicose & indep5d5t2 !re !y _h said t ! free-boot] :o _h /opp$ u on ,may #ca mu/ h be5 a disguis$ monk4 ,b we c\ld d )\t !m & _! mona/]y1 :i* seem$ small & unimportant4 ,"h our f\r puppies fell ill ( a peculi> compla9t3 !y ran ab\t re/lessly1 snuff$ & sneez$1 _h matt] 9 _! eyes1 & no appetite4 ,at night ,i he>d "o ( my t5t companions :9e & h[l1 & next morn+ he lay dead on 8 rug4 ,leav+ ,rawl+'s & ,ryd]'s r\te to ! left1 we proce$$ to ! bank ( ! ,*aktak-tsangpo & !n nor?w>ds along ! riv]4 ,x has a swift curr5t1 b does n =m rapids2 to ! s\? is se5 ! portal ?r\gh :i* x em]ges f ! m\nta9s4 ,at ! village ,pasa-guk1 :i* is l>g] ?an ,saka-dzong1 we biv\ack$ on ! "r bank4 ,! riv] "h 0 #ada feet broad1 #b ft4 #g 94 deep at mo/1 & c>ri$ #fbi cubic feet ( wat]4 ,on ,may #bh x c>ri$ #ffd cubic feet1 b x receives ! ,sa-*u & o!r tribut>ies bel[ ! village ,pasa-guk4 ,9 ! middle ( ! village is a s]ai ) a l>ge /ore ( salt 9 bags4 ,"h a m>ket is held f "t to "t1 salt be+ ! m$ium ( ex*ange4 ,i tri$ to obta9 fur!r in=mation ab\t ! c\ntry 9 ! nor?1 b :5 ,i comp>$ ! diff]5t data toge!r1 ! result 0 a hopeless muddle4 ,= in/ance1 ,i ask$ travell]s :o came f ,tabie-tsaka1 h[ f> !y m>*$ ea* day1 & :]e !y pass$ lakes1 riv]s1 & passes2 & :5 ,i add$ ! di/ances toge!r & laid d[n ! direction on ! map1 ! l9e rea*$ to ,ka%g>1 all ?r\gh ,tibet & ,ea/]n ,turke/an6 ,x 0 impossible to obta9 useful data ab\t ! c\ntry to ! nor?4 ,i mu/ see x ) my own eyes4 ,b h[ w\ld t be possible8 ,! ,hajji came to me1 angry & excit$1 to compla9 t ,guff>u _h /ruck him4 ,i sat 9 judgm5t & he>d evid5ce4 ,! ,hajji _h refus$ to wat* ! horses :5 8 turn came1 & ! c>avan ba%i _h !re=e ?ra%$ him4 ,! s5t5ce 01 t ! ,hajji %\ld receive 8 dis*>ge 9 ,nyuku4 ,rob]t & ,i sat on ! velvety grass on ! bank & gaz$ ) long+ eyes at ! half-cle> wat] danc+ m]rily on to its de/9ation at ! coa/4 ,an old man & a y\? jo9$ u1 & ent]ta9$ u ) dance & song4 ,! old man danc$ & /amp$ on ! gr\nd 9 a ?ree-corn]$ mask ( goat lea!r ) r$ /rips & bells1 & ! y\? sang ?is un9telligible song3 ,hail1 ,o ,god1 god ( ! pass6 ,_m />s sp>kle 9 ! night4 ,to-day is a f9e day4 ,w\ld t ra9 might come6 ,give me a bit ( tea or a small co94 ,o1 ,cook1 give me a p9* ( meal & a radi%4 ,su* is ! mask t is worn 9 ! ,*ang-tang4 ,at ! "r e> a curl1 nei!r l>ge nor small1 ,at ! left a p91 nei!r l>ge nor small2 ,nei!r %ade nor sun4 ,!re is a fa!r's p9 & a "m's p94 ,ev]y:]e we h p9s ) bran*es1 ,= !y gu>d u f all dang]s4 ,! horse holds 8 head high1 ,& ! rid] holds 8 head high4 ,! gods are high1 ! e>? is l[4 ,y h gold & silv] galore4 ,may y\r cattle multiply1 y\r flocks & y\r prop]ty increase6 ,may y\r family increase6 ,! ,k+ ( ,ladak sits betwe5 a gold5 & a silv] k+4 ,n[ is ! song end$4 ,on ,june ! #aj? ,i left ! ,*aktak-tsangpo to ! "r1 un=tunately )\t hav+ le>nt :5ce x comes4 ,we asc5d$ a side valley nam$ ,rock1 9 a nor?-we/]ly direction4 ,we _h previ\sly pass$ two t[]s :i* _h =m]ly be5 ! =t ( a rebelli\s lama4 ,he 0 at feud ) ,saka-dzong1 b 0 defeat$4 ,9 ! camp at ! pool ,*uru ! ev5+ seem$ to me fe>fully long4 ,home-sickness _h become infecti\s4 ,! ,ladakis sang no m1 b made %oes = _! *ildr51 & !reby turn$ _! ?\ghts m int5tly to _! home4 ,i too f\nd no re/ aft] ! day's "w4 ,if we only knew :at answ] ! ,m&>9s w\ld s5d1 b our mess5g] did n return4 ,we seem$ to h /umbl$ into a morass & to be /amp+ 9 x )\t mov+ on4 ,oh1 ?\ dre>y1 awful ,tibet1 ?\ black1 poor sup]/iti\s folk6 ,9 ! /illness ( ! night ! /ep ( ! camp wat*man 0 pleasant company4 ,aft] a night temp]ature ( #ad4d we rode on we/w>ds ov] a v flat pass1 a wat]%$ betwe5 ! ,*aktak-tsangpo & ,nyuku1 along a road :i* _h once be5 a tasam2 num]\s ru9s & manis 7 memorials ( t "t4 ,! di/rict 0 ?ickly peopl$ by nomads1 & black t5ts 7 (t5 se5 :]e %eep bleat$ & dogs b>k$2 wom5 & boys gu>d$ ! flocks1 & yaks graz$ on ! slopes4 ,! c\ntry calls to m9d ! summ] pa/ures on ! ,pamir4 ,a second puppy di$ 9 ! night1 & 0 almo/ eat5 up by rav5s be=e morn+4 ,on ,june #ab we came aga9 to ! tasam at ,nyuku :]e we set up our camp4 ,! ,gova ( ,nyuku1 ^: fri5d%ip ,i _h ga9$ at ,saka-dzong1 0 v oblig+1 & said t ,i 0 q at lib]ty to make ano!r det\r to ! nor?1 z ,i seem$ to dislike ! high-road4 ,x w\ld take me up to a pass1 :]e almo/ all ! m\nta9s ( ! _w c\ld be se51 especially ,lumbo-gangri imm$iately to ! nor?4 ,"h we %\ld come 9 contact ) p ( ! prov9ce ( ,bongba1 :o p]haps w\ld sell u all necess>ies4 ,9 ,nyuku ! ?ird puppy di$4 ,! ,tibetans said t x suff]$ f a ?roat compla9t call$ gakpa1 :i* is v common 9 ! c\ntry4 ,mamma ,puppy gave h]self no tr\ble ab\t h] little ones :5 !y 7 ill1 b seem$ r to avoid !m4 ,we wa%$ !m ) w>m wat]1 & t5d$ !m to ! be/ ( our p[]1 & did ev]y?+ we c\ld ?9k ( to save ! la/4 ,! ,tibetans c\ld n und]/& h[ we c\ld make su* a fuss ab\t a dog4 ,blui%-:ite fla%es quiv]$ ov] ! m\nta9s all ! ev5+1 & _! outl9es /ood out %>p & d>k 9 ! lightn+4 ,t is a sign ( ! sett+ 9 ( ! monsoon ra9s on ! s\!rn flank ( ! ,himalayas1 & all look =w>d to !m4 ,:5 ra9 falls up "h1 ! grass gr[s up 9 a c\ple ( days1 ! cattle become fat & sleek1 ! milk is ?ick & yell[2 at ! pres5t "t x is ?9 & :ite1 & produces little butt]4 ,! exi/5ce ( ! nomads1 & inde$ ! prosp]ity ( ! :ole c\ntry1 dep5ds on ! monsoon4 ,x is ! summ] pa/ure :i* helps ! h]ds to endure ! sc>city ( ! re/ ( ! ye>4 ,if ! ra9s fail1 ! /ock langui% & die4 ,! night is sil5t4 ,only occasionally is he>d ! he>ty laugh ( a girl or ! b>k ( a dog4 ,! camp wat*man hums an air to keep himself awake4 ,! #ac? 0 a lazy day2 we _h to wait = ,tundup ,sonam & ,ta%i4 ,i always %ave myself on re/ days--x is pleasant to feel clean1 ev5 :5 !re is no "o to sm>t5 oneself up =4 ,rob]t %ot ?ree wild-geese1 & caught two yell[ gosl+s :i* walk$ into 8 t5t & made hay !re4 ,we put !m 9 ! cry/al-cle> ,m5-*u riv]1 hop+ t "s k9dly goose-mamma w\ld take to !m4 ,f "h x is said to be only f\r days' j\rney to a di/rict 9 ,nepal1 :]e !re are fir-woods4 ,j fancy3 fir-wood z 9 ,sw$5 & 9 ,simla6 ,b we mu/ rema9 9 ?is dre>y l&4 ,j z we 7 />t+ on ! foll[+ day ! ,hajji1 ,islam ,ahun1 & ,gaff> came to me1 & dem&$ exemption f night duty & sep>ate rations if !y 7 to /ay ) me4 ,i call$ all ! o!r m5 toge!r1 & ask$ if any "o else w\ld jo9 !m n[ t !y 7 to be dismiss$4 ,b no "o wi%$ to4 ,our ,hajji1 ! only "o ( ! ,mohamm$ans :o _h be5 9 ,mecca--_h inde$ be5 twice !re--0 ! only rascal 9 ! c>avan4 ,he _h in/igat$ ! o!rs4 ,9 my exp]i5ce ,mecca pilgrims are always sc\ndrels4 ,! ,hajji decl>$ t he pref]r$ robb]s & tramps on ! road to ,guff>u & ! o!r ,ladakis4 ,! ?ree m5 vani%$ f sight z we m>*$ nor?-we/w>ds up ! valley ( ! ,m5-*u4 ,9 camp ,no4 #agg1 on ,june #ae1 ,i held a gr& reception1 = "s *iefs f ! direction ( ,bongba came to visit me1 & our old fri5d1 ! ,gova ( ,tradum1 arriv$4 ,!y decid$ t ,i might ride a %ort di/ance to ! nor?1 b only on condition t ,i came back ! same day4 ,s on ! #af? we rode on fre% hir$ horses up to ! ,kilung-la1 :]e ! view 0 in/ructive & %[$ ! lie ( ! l&4 ,be=e u 0 ! d>k ,lumbo-gangri ) its deep wild valleys & /eep cliffs1 its small glaci] tongues & caps ( et]nal sn[4 ,! m5 ( ! di/rict said t ! m\nta9 0 holy1 & 0 a k9d ( portal or =ec\rt to ! ,kang-r9po*e1 ! celebrat$ pilgrimage m\nta9 ne> ! s\rces ( ! ,indus4 ,beh9d ,lumbo-gangri are ! valley & riv] ( ! ,rukyok-tsangpo1 :i* fl[s to ! ,*aktak-tsangpo4 ,x 0 n[ cle> to me t ^! summits1 ( :i* be>+s 7 tak5 by ,ryd] & ,wood1 c\ld n lie on ! wat]%$ ( ! riv]s fl[+ to ! ocean4 ,b no "o knew ! true aspect ( ! c\ntry f>!r nor?1 & ! ,bongba m5 _h be5 ord]$ to /op u if we tri$ to =ce our way 9 t direction4 ,i c\ld n by entreaties or ?reats obta9 m ?an ! view f ! ,kilung-la4 ,! fur!r we proce$$ we/w>ds ! m ( ! blank space on ! map 0 left beh9d u4 ,t 0 exce$+ly annoy+1 b my hopes 7 /ill fix$ on ! ,*9ese lett]s f ,lhasa4 ,on ! morn+ ( ! #ag? all ! m\nta9s 7 cov]$ ) sn[1 b ! day 0 w>m & f9e z we rode up to ! ,s]*ung-la1 & saw to ! s\?-we/ ! nor!rnmo/ cre/ ( ! ,himalayas & ! broad valley ( ! ,brahmaputra4 ,! valley desc5d+ f ! pass is full ( bru%wood & drift+ s&1 :i* is pil$ up 9 dunes to a height ( ne>ly #bj feet4 ,aft] an int]e/+ & successful m>* we came to ! valley junction ,dambak-rong4 ,b ! day 0 n yet ov]4 ,we he>d t ,naz] ,%ah's son _h arriv$ ! day be=e at ,tradum on 8 way to ,ladak ) tw5ty-two mules4 ,a mess5g] 0 !re=e despat*$ to ask him to wait = u1 & give u tid+s ( ,tundup ,sonam & ,ta%i4 ,! ,gova ( ,tradum also rode home to get all 9 ord] aga9/ our arrival4 ,a %ort "t pass$ by1 & !n a horseman came up at a sm>t trot f ! ,s]*ung valley4 ,he _h evid5tly foll[$ our track2 he rode /raight to my t5t1 dism\nt$1 & h&$ me a lett] ) a l>ge seal1 be>+ ! words1 ,imp]ial ,*9ese ,mission1 ,tibet1 & ! same 9 ,*9ese *>act]s4 ,n[ our fate w\ld be settl$4 ,! ,ladakis cr[d$ r\nd my t5t4 ,i p]ceiv$ t !y hop$ we %\ld be oblig$ to return by ! direct road to ,ladak4 ,!y long$ = home1 & 7 n inspir$ by ! same int]e/s z myself4 ,! t5sion 0 extreme z ,i op5$ ! lett]4 ,x 0 dat$ at ,lhasa on ,june #c1 & _h be5 f\rte5 days on ! way4 ,x 0 writt5 9 faultless ,engli% by ,ho ,tsao ,hs+1 fir/ secret>y to ,h4 ,e4 ,*ang 7,tang ,d>971 & ran z foll[s3 ,,de> ,,dr4 ,,h$9--,y\r lett] to ,8 ,excell5cy ,*ang dat$ ! #ad? ,may 0 duly receiv$4 ,kn[+ t y h arriv$ at ,raka-tatsang1 t ,deva%ung h9d]$ y to proce$ =w>d4 ,8 ,excell5cy is v sorry to he> su* occurr5ce2 & he in/ruct$ me to write y ! foll[+3-- ,t 9 ,8 ,excell5cy's la/ lett] to y he wrote y to return by ! way y came2 & n[ he does n und]/& :y y are tak+ ano!r road contr>y to :at he wrote y1 consequ5tly1 y h met ) su* inconv5i5ces1 to :i* ,8 ,excell5cy regrets v mu* inde$4 ,8 ,excell5cy has1 n[1 aga9 ord]$ ,deva%ung & (ficials along ! way to give y all possible protection & com=t1 b he s9c]ely wi%+ y n to *ange y\r direction to ! ,n4,w41 :]e bo? ! c\ntry & p are wild ,i wond] h[ he c\ld "k t1 & t accid5ts might happ51 :i* ,8 ,excell5cy c h>dly be> any responsibility4 ,!re=e1 ,8 ,excell5cy wi%es y only to return by ! way z y came1 n to v5ture 9 o!r directions4 ,8 ,excell5cy gives 8 be/ reg>ds to y & wi%+ y a happy & safe return4--,i am y\rs v truly1 ,,ho ,,tsao ,,hs+4 ,illu/ration3 #bbe1 #bbf1 #bbg1 #bbh4 ,,tibetan ,,boys ,,& ,,girls ,,( ,,saka ,,& ,,tradum4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,t 0 all ,i got by ! /ratagem :i* _h co/ u s mu* loss ( "t4 ,a positive prohibition to proce$ nor?-we/w>ds to ! l& ( my dreams4 ,n[ ! ,deva%ung w\ld issue fre% ord]s1 & we %\ld be wat*$ m closely ?an ev]4 ,n[ ! iron gates w\ld be clos$ aga9 f ! s\?1 & ! way to ! =bidd5 l& b>r$4 ,tang ,d>9 0 z immovable z ! ,/ate ,secret>y = ,india1 ,"l ,morley4 ,b he /imulat$ my ambition1 & = t ,i h to ?ank him4 ,to beg9 )1 we seiz$ ! copy ( our passport1 :i* 0 to be transf]r$ f ,gova to ,gova all along ! road4 ,b n yet _h ?is fateful day come to a close4 ,at sunset came ,tundup ,sonam & ,ta%i1 du/y & ragg$1 ) _! bundles on _! backs4 ,welcome & well done1 #bj rupees ea* & new suits ( clo!s is y\r rew>d4 ,:at news8 ,no lett]s1 b only a note f ,ma t he _h =w>d$ my lett]s to ,lhasa1 & s5t a lett] f ,gulam ,kadir to ,muham$ ,isa4 ,!y _h rea*$ ,%igatse 9 elev5 days1 & _h re/$ !re ?ree days4 ,!n !y _h set out f ,ta%i-lunpo directly we/w>ds4 ,!y made a fa/ & long m>* on ! fir/ day1 & climb$ up to ! pass ,ta-la at sunset1 :]e n9e highwaym51 two ) guns & ! o!rs ) swords1 fell ^u !m & ?rew !m to ! gr\nd4 ,! two guns 7 set on _! re/s & ! b>rels po9t$ to ! m5's heads1 ! sev5 swords 7 drawn1 & "o ( ! robb]s said3 ,if y value y\r lives1 h& out ev]y?+ ( value y h4 ,fright5$ out ( _! wits1 ! two ,ladakis begg$ !m to take all !y want$ if !y w\ld only sp>e _! lives4 ,! n9e robb]s !n op5$ _! bundles & ?or\ghly plund]$ !m1 tak+ ev5 _! little gaos & images1 z well z _! cook+ ut5sils & #ah rupees 9 silv]4 ,!y 7 all[$ to keep ! clo!s !y _h on _! backs4 ,by pure *ance ! robb]s _h ov]look$ a small packet ( #cj t5gas1 :i* ,tundup ,sonam _h put at ! back ( 8 girdle4 ,! robb]s cle>$ !m out 9 a m9ute1 & !n disappe>$ into ! m\nta9s4 ,our two defeat$ h]oes rema9$ weep+ on ! battle-field till d>k1 & !n !y w5t (f v sl[ly at fir/1 turn+ r\nd frequ5tly & fancy+ !y saw a robb] 9 e %ad[1 b aft]w>ds !y quick5$ _! pace almo/ to a run4 ,deadly tir$1 !y crept "u two b\ld]s by ! wayside1 & next morn+ came to ?ree black t5ts1 :]e !y got food1 & 7 told t a lama _h be5 robb$ & /ripp$ nak$ on ! ,ta-la two days be=e4 ,b n[ !y 7 safe1 & x 0 t\*+ to see h[ delight$ !y 7 to be ) u aga94 ,!y _h se5 ,muham$ ,isa's grave1 & ! conv]sation ab\t x rem9d$ ,ts]+ ( 8 sorr[4 ,on ,june #ah we travel across op5 c\ntry to ,tradum1 our r\te foll[+ ! nor!rn side ( ! valley :ile ! tasam runs along ! s\!rn4 ,! gr\nd 0 s&y4 ,small irritat+ horseflies buzz 9 ! no/rils ( ! horses & drive !m frantic4 ,!y walk ) _! noses on ! gr\nd l ! wild asses to escape ! flies4 ,to ! "r is ! ,tuto-pukpa1 a m\nta9 to :i* corpses are c>ri$ on yaks f ,tradum to be cut up4 ,we ride betwe5 pools :]e wild-geese are pl5tiful ) _! pretty yell[ gosl+s4 ,at a project+ rock1 cairns & /ream] poles are set up2 ! wall ( rock is black1 b all ! side fac+ ! road is pa9t$ r$--,ah1 ?is is blood on ,bald]'s sacrificial /one4 ,"h ! village ( ,tradum c be se51 its temple & its *hort5 on a hill4 ,to ! s\?-we/ ! d>k sn[-cr[n$ ramp>t ( ! ,himalayas appe>s1 wild1 gr&1 & precipit\s4 ,to ! s\?-ea/ lies ! tasam1 a light w9d+ rib&1 & our pa? runs into x2 x is #dj feet broad betwe5 grass-gr[n t]races ( s&2 x is ! great trunk-road ( ,tibet4 ,we _h sc>cely set up our camp :5 ! dis*>g$ ,hajji & 8 two companions came up & salaam$4 ,b ,i 0 angry1 & drove !m away4 ,i aft]w>ds he>d t !y wept1 & ,i 0 he>tily sorry t ,i _h be5 s unk9d4 ,b x 0 too late1 = !y 7 se5 tramp+ out we>ily into ! /eppe :5 ! %ades ( ev5+ fell4 ,! mona/]y ,tradum-gompa is subject to ,ta%i-lunpo1 & its five monks live on ! produce ( _! %eep & yaks1 & c>ry on trade ) ,nepal4 ,r\nd ! temple are eight *hort5s1 & 9 ! lhakang1 ! hall ( ! gods1 ! immortal son ( ,sakya is en?ron$ betwe5 ! elev5-head$1 six-arm$ ,avalokitesv>a & o!r deities4 ,on a small hill ( s*i/ above ! conv5t is a h]mit's dwell+1 :]e !re is a spl5did view ov] ! ,brahmaputra valley & ! ,tsa-*u-tsangpo z x em]ges f ! m\nta9s4 ,"h di$ our f\r? puppy1 :i* ,i _h hop$ to keep z a remembrance ( ,%igatse4 ,mamma ,puppy _h n[ h] mat to h]self1 & outside ! t5ts lay ! two black dogs f ,ngangtse-tso4 ,! ,gova ( ,tradum 0 an excell5t1 g5ial rogue1 & _h a ?or\gh contempt = ! ,deva%ung4 ,he w\ld n let me foll[ up ! ,tsa-*u valley1 b made no objection to an excursion to ! ,kore-la pass1 two days' j\rney (f to ! s\?-we/1 & belong+ to ! ,himalayan range :i* is ! wat]%$ betwe5 ! ,ganges & ! ,brahmaputra4 ,he also let u hire six horses1 & gave u two guides = ! j\rney1 :i* 0 to be comm5c$ on ! morn+ ( ,june #bj4 ,! fir/ night we 7 to encamp at ! spot :]e ! ,tsa-*u-tsangpo ent]s ! upp] ,brahmaputra4 ,i rode s\?-s\?-we/ ) my usual ret9ue ov] grassy /eppe & s&-dunes4 ,9 front ( u 7 ?ree w&]]s ) bundles on _! backs & /aves 9 _! h&s4 ,:5 we ov]took !m !y /opp$1 came =w>d1 & laid _! =eheads on ! gr\nd at my feet4 ,x 0 ! ,hajji & ! two o!r m54 ,i 0 glad ( ! opportunity ( tak+ !m into fav\r aga94 ,= ! future !y 7 to foll[ our yaks4 ,! camp 0 pit*$ on ! "r bank ( ! riv]1 at ! foot ( ! hill cr[n$ by ! ru9s ( ! old ,liktse mona/]y4 ,"h an important trade-road crosses ! riv] & a f]ry ma9ta9s communication betwe5 ! banks4 ,! ,tsa-*u riv] _h "h a bread? ( #ce y>ds1 & a dep? ( b>ely #dj in*es1 :ile ! ,brahmaputra 0 #abj y>ds broad by #e feet deep1 & 0 mu* m impos+ ?an f>!r d[n4 ,! absolute height 0 #ad1igg feet4 ,x 0 n easy to c>ry ! rope across ! /ream1 = a /rong s\?-we/ gale 0 bl[+ & ! waves 7 high4 ,rob]t r[$ out f ! "r bank ) ! rope1 & f ! left "s ,ladakis wad$ out z f> z !y c\ld 9 ! %all[1 sl[ly deep5+1 wat] to cat* ! end ?r[n to !m & secure x on %ore4 ,:5 at la/ we _h /ret*$ ! rope across1 x broke ) ! pressure ( ! w9d & ! waves1 & ! "w _h to be done aga94 ,we not$ a temp]ature ( #ec4f 9 ! air & ( #ei4g 9 ! wat]1 b ! m5 7 s *ill$ by ! w9d t !y _h to make a good fire4 ,x also ra9$ heavily--! fir/ ra9 we _h _h s9ce we left ,ladak--& ?und] roll$ among ! m\nta9s4 ,= ! fir/ "t ! m9imum temp]ature 9 ! night1 #cg4h1 0 above freez+-po9t1 & ! morn+ 0 beautiful aft] ! /orm3 ! sky 0 only half cov]$ ) bright summ] cl\ds1 n a brea? ( air /irr$1 & ! surface ( ! riv] 0 smoo? z a mirror1 only slightly brok5 by sl[ly mov+ :irlpools4 ,! f]ry 0 already ply+ across ) pass5g]s & goods4 ,! f]ryman is paid a t5ga = ea* passage1 & he crosses ov] twice 9 ! h\r4 ,our horses & yaks 7 made to swim ov] ! riv] aft] !y _h graz$ at night on ! /eppes on ! left bank4 ,illu/ration3 #bbi4 ,,woman ,,( ,,nyuku4 ,illu/ration3 #bcj4 ,,two ,,tibetans4 ,illu/ration3 #bca4 ,,! ,,gova ,,( ,,tuksum4 ,illu/ration3 #bcb4 ,,girl ,,at ,,pasa-,,guk4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,we rode #ba miles on ! #ba/1 b fir/ paid a visit to ! little ,liktse-gompa mona/]y1 :i* /&s on ! inn] side ( ! hill1 & !re=e has n ! f9e view obta9$ f ! old ru9$ mona/]y on ! summit4 ,f its w9d[-op5+s ! monks c\ld wat* ! oscillat+ life ( ! riv] dur+ ! v>i\s seasons ( ! ye>3 its sl[ fall 9 spr+2 its rise dur+ summ]1 :5 volumes ( turbid wat] come d[n f melt+ sn[fields & glaci]s2 its decl9e 9 autumn1 & ! freez+ ( ! riv] 9 ! cold ( w9t]4 ,& !y c\ld see ! break+-up ( ! ice 9 spr+1 & ! great clatt]+ slabs danc+ d[n ! curr5t4 ,b n[ ! prospect be=e ! eyes ( ! t5 monks is only a wret*$ loamy valley betwe5 b>r5 hills1 = _! conv5t lies ap>t f all roads4 ,liktse-gompa is a dep5d5cy ( ,s]a1 b receives no support f x1 & possesses no h]ds4 ,! pr(its f ! f]ry are ! only rev5ue ( ! monks4 ,! abbot1 ,punjun ,dung1 ) a r$ turban & a grey be>d1 %[$ me ! gods 9 ! lhakang1 ,buddha1 ,padma ,sambhava1 etc4 ,among ! usual sacr$ objects on ! alt> 7 two human skulls conv]t$ into dr9k+ vessels1 "o ( !m l9$ ) silv]4 ,9 ! c\rty>d ! holy dog 0 *a9$ up4 ,!n we m\nt$ & rode (f quickly4 ,we p]ceiv$ at once t ?is road is mu* frequ5t$4 ,on ! /eppe & 9 op5 s(t valley bottoms x is less cle>ly m>k$1 = !re e "o m>*es :]e he likes2 b ov] passes & on spurs ) h>d /one ! tracks conv]ge f all sides1 & !re ! road has be5 trodd5 d[n & worn 9 ! c\rse ( c5turies4 ,on ! small pass ,tsasa-la we met a l>ge c>avan lad5 ) b>ley4 ,:]e h y come f8 ,i ask4 ,f ,mundang 9 ! c\ntry ( ,lo ,gapu4 ,mundang is m>k$ on ! ,engli% maps ( ,nepal1 b :o 0 ,lo ,gapu1 ! ,k+ ( ! ,s\!rn ,l&8 ,x s\nd$ s gr&4 ,! next pass is call$ ,dorab-la1 & f ! top we see ! ,*ock>-%ung-*u1 a broad valley ) a brook dra9+ p>tly f ! ,kore-la1 & fl[+ to ! ,brahmaputra4 ,:ile we are re/+1 ,guff>u passes ) 8 black baggage-tra9 9 close ord]1 a troop ( lad5 yaks1 :i/l+ & s++ ,tibetans1 & "s ,ladakis ) our own horses z a re>gu>d4 ,!y soon disappe> 9 ! du/ ( ! road1 two ( our m5 re/+ a :ile 9 a cleft to take a puff or two f _! wea!r-worn n>ghils4 ,f ?is po9t !y m>* we/w>ds to ! r5dezv\s1 :ile we cont9ue s\?w>ds4 ,9 ! valley lead+ up to ! ,ngurkung-la a l>ge salt c>avan on ! way to ,nepal 0 encamp$4 ,! twelve lead]s _h pil$ up a f9e %elt] ( sacks ( salt aga9/ ! viol5t w9d4 ,we !n came to ! v broad valley :i* asc5ds to ! saddle ( ! pass visible 9 ! s\?4 ,we rode up = h\rs1 ?\gh ! asc5t 0 n noticeable1 b ! w9d 0 dead aga9/ u4 ,to ! "r is ! wat]-p>t+ *a9 ( ! ,himalayas :i* we _h se5 f ,tradum4 ,a curi\s1 %>ply outl9$ cl\d1 l a :ite torp$o1 cov]$ x1 & f ! nor!rn extremity small fleecy flakes p>t$ f "t to "t & float$ away4 ,we camp$ ne> "s black t5ts 9 a side valley close to ! extraord9>ily flat pass4 ,,*apt] ,,xli ,a ,,peep ,,into ,,nepal ,x 0 on ,june #bb t ,i /ood on ! plat=m ( ! ,kore-la pass & gave a /ol5 glance into ,nepal1 & tri$ to get a glimpse ( ,dhaulagiri peak1 #bf1fgj feet high4 ,b ! morn+ 0 dull1 heavy cl\ds lay l pill[s on ! e>?1 & no?+ c\ld be se5 ( ! surr\nd+ m\nta9s4 ,we mu/ wait till x cle>s1 0 ! only ord] ,i c\ld give4 ,b j !n a milk-girl came f a camp ( #bj t5ts :i* 0 ne> at h&4 ,! p 7 ,nepalese subjects1 b 7 camp+ on ! ,tibetan side4 ,! girl said t x 0 only a %ort day's j\rney to ! ne>e/ p]man5t dwell+s & g>d5s1 & two days' j\rney to ,lo ,gapu's summ] resid5ce4 ,!n we ?\ght3 ,we may z well ride d[n ! s\!rn side ( ! pass z /ay up "h 9 ! w9d4 ,no soon] said ?an done6 ,! t5ts are fold$ up1 ! animals lad51 we m\nt & ride along ! ea/]n side ( ! valley up to ! ,kore-la1 :i* f ! ,tibetan side little resembles a pass1 = to ! eye ! grass-gr[n on unfruitful loose gr\nd seems q level4 ,( ! sn[y m\nta9s on ! we/]n side ( ! valley only ! d>k base is visible2 lay]s ( cl\ds lie close above ! e>?2 "o feels z ?\gh "o c\ld pu% "o's head aga9/ ! ro(4 ,a ru9$ h\se1 :]e p]haps a fronti] gu>d once dwelt1 a c\ple ( long manis1 & loose blocks ( conglom]ate /& on ! top4 ,a c>avan comes up f ,nebuk 9 ! bottom ( ! valley4 ,we look r\nd 9 va9 = ! actual wat]%$1 & f9d x only by notic+ rivulets runn+ toge!r & fl[+ s\?w>ds4 ,"h we light a fire & take obs]vations4 ,! view is m>vell\s1 at any rate a relief su* z we h n se5 = a long "t4 ,! mighty sn[y m\nta9s to ! s\?1 :i* ye/]day broke ?r\gh ! cl\ds1 are1 inde$1 obscur$1 b our valleys fall /eeply & unite into a l>ge valley1 9 ! dep?s ( :i* grassy plots & fields %9e 9 deep spr+ v]dure amid ! ev]la/+ grey1 yell[1 & r$ l&scape4 ,d[n bel[ ! sun is %9+1 & beh9d u ! sky is cle> above ! ,brahmaputra valley1 :ile "h & r\nd all ! sn[y m\nta9s float opaque cl\ds4 ,f ! saddle ly+ we/ ( our po9t ( vantage innum]able valleys radiate out2 ! surface ( ! ridges betwe5 !m is ne>ly level1 or dips g5tly to ! s\?-ea/1 :ile ! valleys are deeply cut 9 l caons1 & ! promontories at ! meet+ ( ! valleys are brok5 %ort (f4 ,p]haps "s ( ! ne>e/ peaks ( ! ,himalayas rise l isl&s above ! sea ( cl\ds1 = "h & !re a reflexion f sun-light$ firn-fields seems to be try+ to break ?r\gh ! veil ( cl\ds 7,illu/4 #bcc74 ,illu/ration3 #bcc4 ,,view ,,f ,,! ,,kore-,,la ,,t[>ds ,,! ,,s\?-,,we/4 ,we /& on ! fronti] betwe5 ,tibet & ,nepal4 ,beh9d u to ! nor? we h ! flat1 level l& on ! s\!rn bank ( ! ,tsangpo4 ,we h m\nt$ only #cae feet f ! riv] to ! ,kore-la1 :]e ! height is #ae1bib feet4 ,& f ! pass !re is a headlong desc5t to ! ,kali ,g&ak1 an afflu5t ( ! ,ganges4 ,by means ( a canal cut ?r\gh ! ,kore-la ! ,brahmaputra might be turn$ into ! ,ganges4 ,nor!rn ,india ne$s wat] = irrigation1 b ! ga9 w\ld p]haps be small1 = ! ,brahmaputra 9 ,assam w\ld be z mu* dim9i%$ z ! ,ganges 0 increas$4 ,tibet w\ld lose by ! *ange1 & a numb] ( villages on ! ,kali ,g&ak w\ld be swept away4 ,a new road w\ld be op5$ = ! invasion ( ,india f ! nor?1 & !re=e on ! :ole x is p]haps be/ = all p>ties conc]n$ to leave ?+s z !y are4 ,b ! *anges "h indicat$ w "s "t come to pass )\t artificial aid1 = ! t5tacles ( ! ,kali ,g&ak are eat+ back nor?w>ds into ! m\nta9s mu* m quickly ?an ! ,tsangpo is erod+ its valley4 ,"s "t or o!r1 p]haps 9 a hundr$ ?\s& ye>s1 ! ,ganges sy/em w h ext5d$ its t5tacles to ! bank ( ! ,tsangpo1 & !n w be =m$ a bifurcation :i*1 9 ! c\rse ( "t1 w br+ ab\t a total revolution 9 ! proportions ( ! two riv]s & _! dra9age areas4 ,n[ we are 9 ,nepal & g on foot d[n ! declivities4 ,"h little has be5 done to improve ! road4 ,occasionally an awkw>d block ( granite has be5 roll$ away1 leav+ a gap 9 ! brea/work2 9 o!r respects ! c>avan traffic has done mo/ = ! road1 we>+ x d[n4 ,x is easy & pleasant to g d[n s\?w>ds t[>ds d5s] air2 x becomes w>m]1 & we brea! m easily2 ! v]dure increases1 & fl[]s ( diff]5t col\rs make ! grass gay4 ,we try to =get t we mu/ toil up all ^! slopes aga92 let u g d[n1 d[n1 to enjoy a summ] life1 if only = tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 & =get dre>y ,tibet4 ,an h\r ago ! w9d blew icy cold on ! pass1 & n[ we feel ! s(t zephyrs g5tly c>ess+ ! heights4 ,rob]t takes 9 deep draughts ( ! tepid air & fancies he he>s a :isp]$ welcome to ,india2 ,ts]+ & ,rabsang become lively & cont5t$1 & ,i muse ov] a visit to ! ,k+ ( ! ,s\?l&4 ,?ree horsem5 rode sl[ly up ! asc5t4 ,two ( !m 7 turn+ _! pray]-mills4 ,!y look$ a/oni%$4 ,we ask$ :5ce !y came & :i!r !y 7 go+4 ,!y 7 go+ to ! t5t village on ! plateau4 ,:5 !y 7 told :o we 71 9 answ] to _! "q1 !y dism\nt$ & begg$ p>don = n greet+ u at fir/4 ,i readily =gave !m1 = ,i look$ l a ragg$ tramp4 ,!y advis$ u to pass ! night 9 "o ( ! h\ses ( ,lo ,gapu1 & invit$ u to visit !m 9 _! t5t village on our way back4 ,! gradi5t becomes less /eep1 & we come to an expansion :]e ?ree valleys meet1 ! ,kung*uk-kong1 :i* we h foll[$1 9 ! middle1 ! ,pama on ! ea/1 & ! ,damm on ! we/4 ,f ! ,damm valley only comes a small gu%+ brook4 ,we pass along ! "r side ( ! unit$ valley4 ,on ! same side a v l>ge valley op5s1 ! ,yam*uk-pu1 ) an irrigation *annel runn+ d[n f its brook to ! villages & fields bel[4 ,9 ! village ,yam*uk we come to ! fir/ h\ses & trees4 ,on ! left side ( ! valley lies a l>ge mona/]y ) av5ues ( trees & long r[s ( manis2 x is call$ ,gubuk-gompa4 ,fields1 grassy pat*es1 & bu%es become m num]\s4 ,!n comes a succession ( villages on ! left side ( ! valley1 :i* is b>ely #b furlongs broad4 ,bel[ ! side valley ,gurkang-pu1 on ! left1 pebble b$s /& 9 p]p5dicul> walls ) num]\s caves & grottos4 ,^! are app>5tly us$ z dwell+s1 = !y are connect$ ) ! h\ses & walls 9 front ( !m4 ,l[] d[n we come to ! village ,nebuk1 among g>d5s4 ,! ar*itecture is ( ! usual ,tibetan /yle1 :ite & r$ masonry1 flat ro(s1 & decorations ( /ream] poles4 ,! vegetation becomes m luxuriant & ! fields l>g]4 ,we frequ5tly pass ru9$ walls & t[]s1 p]haps relics ( ! "t :5 ,nepal 0 at feud ) ,tibet4 ,n[ ! d5sely peopl$ & well-till$ valley has a peaceful aspect1 & no fronti] gu>ds h9d] our advance4 ,! usual manis lie along ! road1 & a l>ge r$ *hort5 or /upa has a t\* ( ! ,indian /yle4 ,bel[ ?ree villages ly+ close toge!r ! valley contracts slightly4 ,ne> a lonely h\se we encamp$ 9 a lovely g>d51 ) f9e gre5 trees1 among wav+ cornfields4 ,a woman told u t ?is place1 call$ ,nama-%u1 belong$ to ,lo ,gapu1 & t no "o might /ay 9 ! g>d5 )\t 8 p]mission4 ,h[ev]1 we e/abli%$ ourselves !re1 & inhal$ ) delight ! mild d5se air1 & he>d ! w9d ru/l+ ?r\gh ! tree-tops4 ,soon two m5 appe>$1 :o 7 9 ! s]vice ( ,lo ,gapu1 ask+ = in=mation ab\t u4 ,!y said t we 7 9 ! di/rict ,tso1 & t ! riv] 0 call$ ,tso-kh>ki-tsangpo4 ,a village we c see j bel[ our camp 0 nam$ ,nyanyo1 & f !re ,m5tang1 ! resid5ce ( ,lo ,gapu1 c\ld be rea*$ by cross+ only two spurs ( ! m\nta9s1 ,he1 !y said1 0 a fronti] *ief1 :o paid no tribute to ! ,mah>aja ( ,nepal1 b 0 oblig$ to pay a visit to ,8 ,highness e fif? ye>4 ,he _h #ejj subjects4 ,! p = ?ree days f>!r s\? 7 ,lamai/s & spoke a ,tibetan dialect1 9 :i*1 h[ev]1 _m ,indian & ,p]sian words 7 incorporat$4 ,:5 "o ( ! m5 _h obta9$ all ! in=mation he desir$1 he rode d[n ! valley to make 8 report to ! fronti] *ief4 ,mean:ile we held a consultation4 ,i _h only ,rob]t1 ,ts]+1 ,rabsang1 & two ,tibetans ) me1 & our funds consi/$ ( only #bd rupees4 ,! temptation 0 great to w&] a few days m s\?w>ds ?r\gh ! wild deep valleys ( ! ,himalayas4 ,"h1 9 ! ,nama-%u camp1 we 7 at a height ( #ab1dhg feet1 & !re=e #bhje feet l[] ?an ! ,kore-la4 ,e day's j\rney s\?w>ds w\ld br+ u into a d5s] atmosph]e1 & ev5 n[ we 7 n f> f %ady conif]\s woods4 ,b w\ld x be prud5t to advance fur!r into ,nepal8 ,we 7 mu* puzzl$1 & consid]$ ! matt] f all sides4 ,our money w\ld n la/ m ?an two days4 ,our horses belong$ to ! ,gova ( ,tradum1 & we _h agre$ ) him t we w\ld only take a look into ,nepal f ! ,kore-la1 & n[ we _h cross$ ! b\nd>y & desc5d$ into a l& :]e our position 0 less secure ?an 9 ,tibet4 ,we might fall into a trap be=e we 7 aw>e ( x4 ,lo ,gapu might arre/ u & ask = ord]s f ,khatm&u4 ,! greate/ dang]1 h[ev]1 0 t ! ,tibetans might close ! fronti] & r5d] our return impossible1 & !n say t n[ we _h left _! c\ntry we might n ent] aga94 ,& !n we %\ld be cut (f f ! ma9 c>avan1 & all ! results ( my j\rney w\ld be endang]$4 ,i !re=e decid$ to turn back e>ly next morn+ be=e ,lo ,gapu's m5 _h "t to come up & arre/ u4 ,! ev5+ 0 f9e & long1 & we enjoy$ x ?or\ghly "u ! ru/l+ ( ! ?ickly foliag$ trees4 ,i felt p]fectly com=table & brea!d freely3 ! he>t _h n to lab\r s heavily z on ! ,*ang-tang2 x work$ = h\rs toge!r )\t an ef=t2 our feet 7 w>m1 & we slept z we _h seldom done4 ,= 9 ! ,*ang-tang if "o sleeps ev5 eight h\rs "o does n feel re/$ & refre%$ on ris+2 "o does n d]ive ! prop] b5efit f sleep4 ,"h we exp]i5c$ a ?or\ghly com=table feel+ aft] our night's re/1 & our only disappo9tm5t came f ! cl\ds1 :i* conceal$ ! summits ( ! ,himalayas to ! s\? & s\?-s\?-we/4 ,only n[ & !n ! peaks look$ =? = a m9ute4 ,on ,june #bc we m\nt$ our horses aga94 ,we _h he>d no ^w ( ,lo ,gapu4 ,:5 ! mess5g] _h left u he 0 conv9c$ t we %\ld cont9ue our way d[n ! valley1 & ! little pot5tate 0 p]haps n[ expect+ our arrival4 ,he might wait6 ,we rode sl[ly up to ! ,kore-la1 left our old road to ! "r1 & camp$ at ,kung-muga4 ,i 0 sitt+ at my draw+ :5 a horseman came clank+ up4 ,he held 9 8 h& a gre5 flag1 a mess5g]'s badge among ! ,*9ese & ,tibetans4 ,i felt sure t he _h "s connection ) /rict measures aga9/ u1 b f\nd t he 0 only ! be>] ( a proclamation f ,lhasa to all ! /ations z f> z ,g>tok1 t horses & baggage animals %\ld be suppli$ to two ,*9am5 :o _h be5 despat*$ to f9d me out & talk ) me1 & convey to me a lett] f ,8 ,excell5cy1 ,li5 ,d>94 ,!y might be expect$ any mom5t4 ,midsumm] ,day 0 z dull z possible4 ,! :ole c\ntry 0 buri$ 9 imp5etrable fog1 & ev5 ! adjo9+ t5ts 7 invisible4 ,& :5 x _h cle>$ a little1 ! m\nta9s 7 /ill conceal$4 ,we rode nor?-we/w>ds on an excell5t road1 & 7 a/oni%$ at ! num]\s manis ) _! close1 f9e1 rais$ inscriptions on purple & d>k-gre5 s*i/2 o!r pray] /ones _h *>act]s #a4b or #a4f in*es high1 :ile ! l>ge/ *>act]s 7 ne>ly #h in*es high1 s t !re 0 only room = "o "* on ea* slab4 ,!n six slabs 7 plac$ 9 a r[ to spell out ! sacr$ =mula1 ,om mani padme hum4 ,on "s votive /ones ! *>act]s 7 r$1 cut out 9 r\nd pieces ( granite ) a :ite und]lay]4 ,! l>ge/ mani 0 #bfb feet long4 ,illu/ration3 #bcd4 ,,gulam ,,razul',s ,,t5ts ,,9 ,,g>tok4 ,illu/ration3 #bce4 ,,l&scape ,,9 ,,upp] ,,nepal4 ,view look+ ,s\? f ,camp #ahb1 ,nepal4 ,we pass$ encampm5ts ) l>ge h]ds2 wild asses graz$ along ) tame yaks4 ,all ! m5 we met halt$ & salut$ u4 ,! ,gova ( ,tradum came to meet u2 he pull$ a v solemn face1 & wond]$ :e!r ,lo ,gapu w\ld be angry at our visit to ,nepal4 ,we rea*$ ,b&o1 ne> ! small lake ,tsotot-k>po1 ov] ! small saddle ,tasang-la1 & f\nd ,guff>u wait+ = u ) ! c>avan4 ,on ! #be? we made a %ort m>* up to ,*ikum1 :5ce ! ,tsotot-k>po is /ill visible4 ,we _h only provisions = "o day1 b ! ,gova ( ,tradum (f]$ to procure m if we w\ld pay well = ! horses we _h to hire4 ,he _h no fe>1 he said1 ( ! ,*9ese :o 7 com+2 if !y scold$ him = all[+ u to travel on ! s\? bank ( ! ,tsangpo1 he w\ld reply t x 0 easi] to supply u ) provisions !re ?an on ! nor? side4 ,he _h =m]ly be5 a lama 9 ,ta%i-gembe1 b _h lo/ 8 he>t to a lady4 ,to hu% up ! affair he _h />t$ on a pilgrimage to ,kang-r9po*e1 b 0 caught & =bidd5 to return4 ,!n he _h gradually work$ 8 way up1 & 0 n[ *ief ( ,tradum1 & 0 j z great a rascal 9 secul> life z he _h be5 9 ! religi\s life4 ,h[ev]1 he r5d]$ u good s]vice4 ,! view f our elevat$ camp 0 magnific5t4 ,:5 ! full moon _h ris5 up 9 ! sky ! small lake %one l a silv] blade4 ,! sun _h left only an aft]gl[ on ! we/]n horizon1 b ! :ole pla9 ( ! ,brahmaputra & ! m\nta9s ( ,*ang-tang 9 ! nor? 7 cle>ly def9$ 9 dull cle> %ades1 :i* left all ! f9] details indi/+ui%able4 ,a cl\d ) bright1 silv]y1 :ite m>g9s float$ be=e ! moon4 ,a little to ! "r ano!r cl\d caught a reflexion ( ! sun1 & %[$ gold5 m>g9s4 ,!y 7 ! angels ( night & day fight+ = supremacy4 ,soon night _h won ! victory1 & n[ ! moon ca/ a bright pa? ov] ! lake1 :ile all ar\nd 0 involv$ 9 a g5]al mi/4 ,:5 day _h resum$ its sway we rode 9 ! morn+ air ?r\gh sw>ms ( flies1 /++ gnats1 & horseflies up ov] ! ,tagu-la & d[n ! ,tambak valley4 ,to ! we/ ! mo/ nor!rly *a9 ( ! ,himalayas made a magnific5t display1 & to ! nor?-we/ lay ! broad op5 valley ( ! ,brahmaputra1 ! riv] w9d+ along ! middle l a blue rib&4 ,?is ev5+1 too1 ! return ( night call$ =? a brilliant play ( col\rs & tone-effects4 ,light1 re/less1 motionless to ! eye1 b riv5 by ! upp] w9ds l old pray]-/ream]s on a pass1 ! cl\ds sail$ at sunset 9 ! vault ( heav54 ,! moon1 ! fri5d ( all nocturnal w&]]s & sleep]s 9 ! op5 air1 illum9es ! surr\nd+s ( our t5ts1 among :i* ! blue smoke ( ! camp-fires lies l a veil ov] ! gr\nd4 ,! yaks /& /ill z %ad[s1 & n[ & !n _! tee? are he>d gr9d+ aga9/ ! c>tilag9\s process ( ! upp] jaw4 ,! ,tradum ,gova & 8 s]vants hum _! ev5+ pray] & rattle _! pray]-mills4 ,9 ! morn+ comes a quickly pass+ %[] & ano!r be=e noon4 ,we notice all ! signs ( ! sky1 & wi% = ra9 z mu* z ! ,tibetans1 n on our own acc\nt1 b = ! light-foot$ antelopes1 ! wild asses1 & ! m\nta9 %eep4 ,! cl\ds are blue-black ov] ! m\nta9s to ! s\?1 & f !m hang d[n elegantly curv$ fr+es & drap]ies heavy ) ra94 ,"o c he> 9 imag9ation ! drops spla%+ on ! /ones1 & new-born torr5ts ru%+ d[n ! valleys4 ,! trifl+ ra9 t has fall5 9 our neighb\rhood c only moi/5 ! gr\nd = a %ort "t4 ,! drops made a pleasant s\nd z !y pelt$ on ! ,tradum ,gova's umbrella & on my ,curzon hat4 ,?und] roll$ heavily & solemnly r\nd ab\t 9 ! m\nta9s1 l an e*o ( ! trumpet ( ! la/ judgm5t4 ,illu/ration3 #bcf4 ,a ,,*hort5 ,,9 ,,nepal4 ,illu/ration3 #bcg4 ,,gr\p ,,( ,,tibetan ,,wom54 ,!n we cross ! ,n]ung-tsangpo1 come out into ! great valley pla9 ( ! ,brahmaputra1 & encamp 9 a c\ntry inhabit$ by numb]s ( nomads4 ,! ,gova ( ,nagor 0 a tall1 agreeable man1 :o procur$ u tsamba1 *ang1 & goose eggs--a pleasant *ange f our p]petual diet ( mutton4 ,rob]t & ,%ukkur ,ali caught fi%4 ,! ,gova told me t 8 p>5ts1 :o belong$ to ,kham1 _h made a pilgrimage to ! ,kang-r9po*e & _h left _! little son beh9d1 ei!r by mi/ake or on purpose4 ,! y\ng/] _h gr[n up 9 ! t5ts ( ! wild nomads1 & n[1 ?\gh a /rang]1 _h become ! *ief ( ! di/rict4 ,on ! morn+ ( ! #bh? we rode up to ,namla-gompa1 on a rocky prom95ce1 :]e ! view 0 ext5sive & in/ructive4 ,at ! ea/]n foot ( ! project+ m\nta9 lies ! village ,namla1 a few poor /one cab9s1 & "h ! riv] ,pung-*u1 fl[+ out ( ! lake ,ujam-tso1 ent]s ! pla94 ,! mona/]y conta9s "s images ( gild$ bronze1 & sev5 monks1 ( :om "o1 a man ( sixty-six1 has liv$ fifty ye>s )9 its walls4 ,!y are poor & h to beg1 b !y receive freewill (f]+s f ! nomads liv+ 9 ! neighb\rhood4 ,across a pla9 ( crack$ loamy soil1 :i* is flood$ at high wat]1 we ga9 our camp on ! bank ( ! ,tsangpo2 ! riv] looks l a lake1 & t ?is is also ! case 9 late autumn is %[n 9 ,ryd]'s rem>kably consci5ti\sly drawn & accurate map4 ,! bread? "h is #igc y>ds broad1 & ! maximum dep? only #b4d feet4 ,x may1 !re=e1 be easily wad$1 & ! yak c>avan m>*es quietly ?r\gh ! wat]4 ,h[ diff]5t x is f>!r ea/1 :]e ! riv]1 hemm$ 9 betwe5 /eep m\nta9s1 is deep & tumultu\s6 ,9 late summ] x _c be wad$ "h1 & ev5 a boat d>e n v5ture ov] because ( ! trea*]\s1 %ift+ s&-banks4 ,dur+ our measurem5ts ! ,ladakis w5t across ! riv]1 measur+ ! bread? ) poles & ropes1 & held ! boat /ill :ile ,i inve/igat$ ! velocity ( ! curr5t4 ,:5 ! "w 0 f9i%$1 ,rehim ,ali began to c>ry ,rob]t to ! bank1 b he slipp$ on ! smoo?1 clayey bottom1 & bo? took an involunt>y ba?1 caus+ all ! re/ ( u to laugh he>tily4 ,next day ! fragile baggage 0 convey$ across 9 a boat1 & ! re/ on hir$ yaks1 :i* tramp$ ?r\gh ! turbid dirty-grey wat]4 ,on ! nor!rn bank we ride ?r\gh peculi> c\ntry4 ,"h are lakes & swamps1 caus$ by arms ( ! riv]1 & ly+ amid a collection ( s&hills z mu* z #bf feet high4 ,we try all directions to avoid s&hills & deep creeks1 & frequ5tly ride /raight ?r\gh bas9s ) yield+ gr\nd2 9 "s !re is a slight curr5t1 :ile o!rs are /agnant4 ,"h & !re islets ( s& rise out ( ! wat]1 "s b>r51 o!rs ) grass & /alks4 ,x is a ?or\ghly dis9tegrat$ c\ntry1 b full ( pleas+ v>iety4 ,gnats pursue u 9 regul> cl\ds4 ,"s m5 g 9 front to pilot u4 ,we (t5 get into deep wat] & h to turn back4 ,! high wat] wa%es away ! great] "p ( ! drifts&1 & deposits x on ! banks ( ! ,brahmaputra l[] d[n4 ,b :5 ! riv] falls1 fre% s& accumulates & =ms new dunes4 ,! drifts& !re=e f9ds a re/+-place "h on its way to ! ea/4 ,we encamp$ by ! la/ lagoon1 & he>d ! fi%es spla%+ 9 ! wat]4 ,! :ole c\ntry rem9ds me ( ,lob1 ! swampy region 9 ,ea/]n ,turke/an1 & ! cont9ual /ruggle !re betwe5 drifts& & fl[+ wat]4 ,! di/rict is nam$ ,dongbo1 & "h ! ,gova ( ,tuksum & o!r *iefs await$ u4 ,! fir/-nam$ _h he>d t ! ,*9am51 ( ^: com+ we _h be5 in=m$1 _h left ,saka-dzong & 7 on _! way hi!r4 ,he expect$ t !y w\ld arrive be=e ev5+4 ,on ,june #cj we made mo/ ( our m>* along ! tasam1 on :i* ,na9 ,s+ & ! ,engli% exp$ition _h travell$2 = ,i dur/ n pass r\nd ,tuksum1 :i* 0 m5tion$ on my passport4 ,! great] "p ( ! way runs among f9e1 regul>1 cresc5t-%ap$ dunes1 :i* move ea/w>ds ov] ! pla9 be=e ! prevail+ w9d4 ,!y are ephem]al ph5om5a3 !y live & die1 b are always replac$ by o!rs4 ,! horns ( ! cresc5t protrude f> 9 ! direction ( ! w9d1 & ! slope is v /eep on ! w9dw>d side1 z mu* z #ag degrees1 :ile on ! %elt]$ side x is z /eep z ! fall+ s& w all[4 ,ganju-gompa /&s on an isolat$ hill to ! we/ ( ! ,ganju-la4 ,x is subord9ate to ! ,brebung mona/]y1 & has a lhakang ) twelve pill>s & f\r r[s ( divans1 z well z f\r l>ge drums4 ,! /atues ( ! gods look d[n ) g5tle smiles on ! homage paid to !m by nomads & travell]s4 ,only five monks & z _m dogs live 9 ,ganju4 ,! :ole population ( ,tuksum came out to meet u be=e _! village4 ,x 0 agre$ ) ! ,gova t ,guff>u & ! ma9 c>avan %\ld proce$ to ,%amsang1 :ile ,i ) a c\ple ( att5dants travell$ by =bidd5 roads on ! s\? side ( ! riv]4 ,9 ! ev5+ a deputation ( ,ladakis came to wait on me ) ! reque/ t !y %\ld be all[$ to give a fea/ 9 hon\r ( ,muham$ ,isa1 to be paid = out ( 8 out/&+ pay4 ,b ,i ?\ght ?is a little too cool1 see+ t ! money belong$ to ! wid[ ( ! deceas$4 ,!y might h a fea/1 h[ev]1 at my own exp5se1 b !re w\ld be no?+ b mutton1 *ang1 & tea4 ,on ! morn+ ( ,july #a ,i _h ano!r application1 ?is "t f five "y begg> girls1 ragg$ & black1 ) bundles 9 frames ( wood on _! backs1 & l>ge pilgrims' /aves 9 _! h&s4 ,!y _h be51 l s _m o!rs1 at ! ,kang-r9po*e1 & reckon$ x a ye>'s j\rney to _! home 9 ,kham4 ,!y beg _! way f t5t to t5t4 ,x mu/ be a s]i\s burd5 to ! nomads to ma9ta9 ! num]\s pilgrims t pass along ?is road4 ,we said good-bye to ,guff>u & 8 foll[]s on ,july #b1 & rid+ 9 a s\?-we/]ly direction ov] ! pla91 set up our camp #aia on ! left bank ( ! ,brahmaputra1 :i* "h c>ri$ d[n #aigh cubic feet ( wat]4 ,next morn+ ! baggage 0 tak5 ov]1 & we _h also ! hon\r ( help+ ov] ! riv] a high lama1 ^: acqua9tance ,i _h made 9 ,ta%i-lunpo4 ,he wore a yell[ robe ) a r$ mantle1 & _h a small yell[ wood5 hat z bright z metal4 ,8 s]vants 7 arm$ ) guns & swords1 & took all _! baggage ov] ! riv] on yaks4 ,b1 un=tunately1 ! yaks got into deep wat] & began to swim1 s t1 ( c\rse1 all _! baggage 0 ?or\ghly soak$4 ,we also help$ a %eph]d ) "s lambs ov] to ! o!r side1 & if we _h wait$ long] we might h done a f]ryman's "w all day ) our boat 7,illu/s4 #bdj1 #bda74 ,!n we cross$ ov] two o!r arms1 & ! total dis*>ge ( ! ,brahmaputra at ?is place prov$ to be #cbdi cubic feet4 ,! figures1 h[ev]1 obta9$ on gaug+ ! riv] s ne> its s\rce1 are ( inf]ior value1 especially :5 ! melt+ ( ! sn[ has q set 91 p>tly because ! s\rce /reams rise t[>ds ev5+1 c>ry+ ! wat] f ! day's ?aw d[n to ! ma9 valley1 p>tly because ! volume ( wat] dep5ds to a great ext5t on ! wea!r4 ,at ! fir/ d[np\r ( ra9 ! riv]s are little affect$1 = ! wat] is absorb$ by ! dry soil2 b :5 ?is is soak$ ?r\gh1 ! wat] runs (f1 & ! riv]s swell enorm\sly aft] a s+le ra9y day4 ,:5 ! sky is ov]ca/ )\t ra9 !y fall1 b 9 q cle> wea!r ! sun ?aws ! sn[ & causes ! riv]s to rise aga94 ,x 0 a long day's j\rney1 = 9 _m ( ! t5ts ! p refus$ to give u ! help we want$1 & !re=e we pass$ on to ! great tribut>y ,gyang-*u1 :i* comes f ! s\? & receives _m /reams f ! nor!rnmo/ range ( ! ,himalayas4 ,i h no "t to give an acc\nt ( ! geography ( ?is region on ! s\? side ( ! ,brahmaputra4 ,i w only say t dur+ ! foll[+ days we 7 cut (f f ! ma9 riv] by l[ m\nta9s1 & t we did n encamp aga9 on its bank till ,july #f1 :5 we came to ! ,*]ok di/rict4 ,we _h left sev]al tribut>ies beh9d u1 & ! ma9 /ream c>ri$ only #aeed cubic feet ( wat]4 ,aft] ano!r %ort day's m>* we rejo9$ ,guff>u's p>ty 9 ,%amsang 7#ae1daj feet7 on ! great high-road1 :]e tw5ty-"o t5ts 7 n[ /&+4 ,! *iefs ( ! neighb\rhood 7 v att5tive1 & did n say a ^w aga9/ my proposal to g up to ,kubi-gangri1 :i* %[s its sn[y peaks to ! s\?-we/1 & 9 :i* ! s\rces ( ! ,brahmaputra 7 said to lie4 ,!y procur$ u provisions = twelve days1 & we _h n _h s free a h& = "s "t4 ,"h no?+ _h be5 he>d ( ,*9ese or ,tibetan pursu]s f ,lhasa4 ,illu/ration3 #bch4 ,,wom5 ,,9 ,,! ,,village ,,( ,,namla4 ,illu/ration3 #bci4 ,,inhabitants ,,( ,,! ,,village ,,( ,,namla4 ,,*apt] ,,xlii ,,9 ,,se>* ,,( ,,! ,,s\rce ,,( ,,! ,,brahmaputra ,n[ we 7 already f> to ! we/2 ! =ce ( circum/ances _h =c$ u to leave beh9d u /ep by /ep ev] l>g] areas ( unkn[n c\ntry to ! nor?4 ,i 0 vex$1 b ,i w\ld1 at any rate1 endeav\r to d all t 0 possible 9 my hamp]$ condition4 ,at ,%amsang1 ,ryd]'s ,lahtsang1 we 7 at ! place :]e ! actual s\rce /reams ( ! ,brahmaputra conv]g$ f v>i\s directions4 ,i _h long det]m9$ to pu% on to ! unkn[n s\rce1 unless ! ,tibetans plac$ unsurm\ntable ob/acles 9 my way4 ,! le>n$ & cle>-sight$ ,colonel ,montgom]ie _h s5t ,na9 ,s+ 9 ! ye> #ahfe up ! valley ( ! upp] ,brahmaputra 7,illu/4 #chj74 ,f our ,%amsang ! ,pundit cross$ ! ,m>ium-la1 & said 9 8 report t ! s\rces ( ! riv] 7 c]ta9ly 9 ! huge *a9 se5 9 ! s\?1 & 7 f$ by its glaci]s4 ,he did n1 h[ev]1 g to look = ! actual s\rces1 b cont9u$ 8 j\rney we/w>ds4 ,! next ye>1 #ahff1 ,?omas ,webb] made an excursion into ,tibetan t]ritory1 & 8 r\te lay a little to ! s\? ( ,na9 ,s+'s4 ,on 8 sket*-map x may be se5 t he cross$ "s ( ! s\rce /reams ( ! ,tsangpo1 b ( ! tract 9 :i* ! s\rces are situat$ he gives no fur!r indication ?an ,sn[y ranges unexplor$4 ,& :5 he says 9 8 text t "h are ! s\rces ( ! great ,brahmaputra1 :i* h _! orig9 9 ! ,gurla glaci]s1 ! confusion is hopeless2 = ! s\rces ( ! riv] lie #fj miles f ,gurla1 a m\nta9 :i* has no?+ :atev] to d ) ! ,brahmaputra4 ,! political exp$ition :i*1 "u ! comm& ( ,rawl+ 9 ! close ( ! ye> #aijd1 _h ,g>tok = its de/9ation1 & ! *ief result ( :i* 0 ! admirable map ( ! upp] ,brahmaputra valley survey$ by ,ryd] & 8 assi/ants 7,map #g71 travell$ f ,%amsang ov] ! ,m>ium-la & nor? ( ! ,gun*u-tso to ,manas>[>4 ,x 0 !re=e ( ! greate/ importance to me to travel to ! s\? ( _! r\te ?r\gh c\ntry !y _h n t\*$ on4 ,!y travell$ by ! same road z ,na9 ,s+1 & left ! s\rce ( ! riv] at a di/ance ( #dj miles to ! s\?4 ,f ,ryd]'s report x might be suppos$ t he consid]$ ! ,m>ium-la to be ! cradle ( ! ,brahmaputra2 b 9 a lett] ,i h rec5tly receiv$ f him1 he /ates t su* is n ! case1 b t he always recogniz$ t ! actual s\rce mu/ lie among ! m\nta9s 9 ! s\?-we/1 :i* he has set d[n on 8 map f be>+s tak5 ( _! peaks4 ,ryd] also rem>ks 9 8 report t ! pr9cipal headwat]s come f !re4 ,in/ead ( ent]+ into a diffuse discussion ( ! problem1 ,i introduce 9 ?is book small sket*es ( ! maps ( my ?ree pr$ecessors1 ,na9 ,s+1 ,webb]1 & ,ryd]4 ,no o!r travell] _h ev] be5 9 ?is region1 & ,i w\ld on no acc\nt miss ! opportunity ( p5etrat+ to ! actual s\rce ( ! ,brahmaputra & fix+ its position def9itely4 ,h[ 0 ?is to be done8 ,at ,%amsang ! s\rce /reams meet1 & bel[ ?is po9t ! unit$ riv] be>s ! "n ,m>tsang-tsangpo4 ,fir/ ( all1 ,i mu/1 ( c\rse1 gauge ! quantities ( wat] 9 ! s\rce /reams1 &1 if !y 7 ne>ly equal1 we mu/ be cont5t to say t ! ,brahmaputra has sev]al s\rces4 ,) t5 m51 ! boat1 & ! necess>y measur+ app>atus1 ,i betook myself fir/1 on ,july #h1 to ! po9t on ! s\!rn side ( ! valley :]e two /reams run toge!r1 ! ,kubi-tsangpo f ! s\?-we/ & ! ,*ema-yundung f ! we/4 ,a %ort day's m>* f>!r we/ ! ,*ema-yundung receives ! ,m>ium-*u1 :i* comes f ! ,m>ium-la4 ,fir/ ! unit$ /ream 0 gaug$1 & f\nd to dis*>ge #aeed cubic feet ( wat] p] second1 & imm$iately aft] ! ,*ema-yundung1 :i* dis*>g$ almo/ #cec cubic feet4 ,subtract+ ?is f ! volume ( ! unit$ riv]1 we get #abja cubic feet z ! dis*>ge ( ! ,kubi-tsangpo4 ,?is riv] is !n ?ree & a half times z l>ge z ! ,*ema1 & x %\ld be rememb]$ t ! ,*ema also receives ! wat] ( ! ,m>ium-*u1 s t its #cec cubic feet repres5t ! unit$ volumes ( two tribut>ies4 ,:5 we encamp$ 9 ! ev5+ ) ! ma9 c>avan 9 ! ,umbo di/rict 7#ae1dbg feet71 :]e ! ,*ema-yundung & ! ,m>ium-*u unite1 ! riv]s 7 v consid]ably swoll51 & ! wat]1 :i* _h be5 cle> 9 ! morn+1 _h become turbid4 ,!re=e only ! two measurem5ts tak5 at ! same "t 7 directly comp>able1 & ,i w pass ov] all ! subsequ5t measurem5ts4 ,to arrive at ! s\rce we _h only to "k t ! ,kubi-tsangpo is f> l>g] ?an ! two o!rs1 s we _h to foll[ its c\rse up into ! m\nta9s1 :i* none ( my pr$ecessors _h done4 ,! ,tibetans also said t ! ,kubi 0 ! upp] c\rse ( ! ,m>tsang-tsangpo4 ,on ,july #i we p>t$ f ,guff>u & ! ma9 c>avan1 :i* 0 to keep to ! great high-road & cross ! ,m>ium-la to ,tok*51 :ile ,rob]t & ,i ) ?ree ,ladakis & ?ree arm$ ,tibetans foll[$ ! ,kubi-tsangpo up to its s\rce4 ,our way ran we/-s\?-we/4 ,:]e we cross$ ! ,*ema-yundung1 a good di/ance above ! la/ delta arms ( ! ,m>ium-*u1 ! riv] c>ri$ little m ?an #adj cubic feet ( wat]1 & !re=e ! ,kubi-tsangpo1 fl[+ to ! s\?-ea/ ( x1 is "h fully eight times z l>ge4 ,at ! =d our ,tibetans drove a peg ) a :ite rag into ! edge ( ! bank1 & :5 ,i ask$ :y1 !y answ]$3 ,t ! riv] may n become tir$ ( c>ry+ its wat] d[n ! valleys4 ,at ,tok-jonsung1 :]e we biv\ack$ among "s black t5ts1 ! ,*ema look$ v l>ge1 b its wat] ran v sl[ly4 ,! nomads ( ! di/rict g up to ! ,*ang-tang 9 w9t]4 ,"h also we he>d1 z on _m =m] occasions1 t smallpox 0 rag+ frightfully 9 ,purang1 & t all ! roads lead+ ?i!r 7 clos$4 ,no c\ntry lies s high t ! angel ( dea? _c rea* x4 ,9 ! night ! !rmomet] fell to #ae4d1 b we 7 at a height ( #ae1iia feet4 ,! sn[y m\nta9s 9 front ( u to ! s\?-we/ became m di/9ct4 ,! ,*ema riv] me&]$ ) a sl[ fall1 & we left x on ! "r be=e we came to our camp 9 ,%]yak4 ,illu/ration3 #bdj4 ,,lama ,,9 ,,my ,,boat4 ,illu/ration3 #bda4 ,,load+ ,,! ,,boat ,,) ,,boxes ,,on ,,cross+ ,,! ,,brahmaputra4 ,we ride on ,july #aa on to ! s\?-we/ 9 a /rong w9d1 pass+ already por\s1 melt+ sn[drifts4 ,solid rock is n to be se51 b all ! detritus consi/s ( granite & gre5 s*i/4 ,we foll[ a cle>ly m>k$ nomad pa?1 lead+ up to ! small pass ,tso-niti-k>gang on ! ridge :i* =ms a wat]%$ betwe5 ! ,*ema-yundung & ! ,kubi-tsangpo4 ,! l>ge valley ( ! latt] is bel[ u to ! s\?4 ,! wat] ( ! ,kubi-tsangpo is v muddy1 b on ! "r bank is a p]fectly cle> mora9e lake4 ,f ! s\?-ea/ ! afflu5t ,lung-yung fl[s out ( its deeply cut valley4 ,! view is gr& on all sides4 ,f nor?-we/ to nor?-ea/ ext5ds a confus$ sea ( m\nta9s1 ! cre/s & ramifications ( ! ,trans-,himalaya1 int]sect$ by ! nor!rn tribut>ies ( ! upp] ,tsangpo4 ,to ! s\? we h a panorama magnific5t & ov]p[]+ 9 its fasc9at+ wildness & :it5ess1 an irregul> *a9 ( huge peaks1 %>p1 black1 & fissur$1 sometimes po9t$ l pyramids1 sometimes broad & r\nd$1 & beh9d !m we see firn-fields f :i* ! sn[ slides d[n to =m glaci]s among ! d>k rocks4 ,prom95t 9 ! s\? is ! elevation ,ngomo-d+d+1 & f its glaci]s ! ,kubi-tsangpo d]ives a consid]able "p ( its wat]4 ,to ! we/-s\?-we/ lies ! ,dongdong1 ano!r mass ) glaci]s equally ext5sive1 & to ! "r ( x are heights call$ ,*ema-yundung-pu1 f :i* ! riv] ( ! same "n takes its rise1 & fl[s d[n circuit\sly to ! conflu5ce at ,%amsang4 ,to ! s\?-ea/ ! position ( ! ,nangsa-la is po9t$ out to me beyond ! ne>e/ m\nta9s1 :]e ! riv] ,gyang-*u1 :i* we came across a few days be=e1 has its s\rce4 ,we g d[n among mora9es1 granite detritus1 & b\ld]s4 ,"h ?ree small cle> mora9e pools1 call$ ,tso-niti1 lie at diff]5t heights4 ,! gr\nd becomes m level1 & we pass a mani1 a rivulet trickl+ among ! rubbi%1 & a small pond1 be=e we rea* camp #bjj 9 ,lhayak1 on ! bank ( ! ,kubi-tsangpo1 :]e ! pa/urage is excell5t & we f9d num]\s traces ( nomad camps4 ,9 sev]al places we come across l>ge %eets ( f9e ?9 bir* b>k1 :i* h be5 deta*$ by /orms & c>ri$ by ! w9d ov] ! m\nta9s f ! s\?4 ,our ?ree muskete]s told u t all ! nomads n[ soj\rn+ 9 ! ,%amsang di/rict w\ld come up "h 9 a few weeks to /ay a mon? & a half1 till ! sn[ drove !m away aga94 ,9 w9t] ! sn[ lies #e feet deep1 & _m m5 & animals p]i% 9 ! sn[drifts1 :5 ! h]ds g too high up ! m\nta9s & are surpris$ by e>ly heavy falls ( sn[4 ,! autumn be=e1 ,i 0 told1 #bc yaks 7 graz+ up at ! foot ( ,ngomo-d+d+ :5 x began to sn[ furi\sly4 ,sev]al h]dsm5 hurri$ up to drive ! animals d[n to l[] gr\nd1 b ! sn[ 0 heap$ up 9 su* l>ge quantities t !y _h to turn back le/ !y %\ld p]i% !mselves4 ,9 ! spr+ !y w5t up1 & f\nd ! skeletons & hides ( ! un=tunate animals4 ,! ,%amsang ,gova _h lately lo/ "s horses 9 ! same way4 ,ev5 ! wild asses _c escape f ! spr+ sn[4 ,!y _c run :5 ! sn[ is deep1 & aft] try+ 9 va9 to rea* b>e gr\nd1 !y die ( />vation & are froz5 9 ! sn[drifts4 ,our ?ree guides1 :o !mselves pass ! summ] up "h1 assur$ me t ! wild asses are froz5 9 an upright position1 & (t5 /& on all f\rs :5 ! summ] sun has ?aw$ ! sn[4 ,!y _h se5 dead wild asses /&+ 9 h]ds z ?\gh !y 7 alive4 ,! sn[1 :i* falls 9 w9t] on ! s\rce region ( ! ,brahmaputra1 melts 9 spr+1 & toge!r ) ! riv] ice produces a flood ( f> l>g] volume1 x is said1 ?an ! summ] flood produc$ by ra94 ,?is is probably true ( ! upp]mo/ c\rse ( ! ,tsangpo1 b l[] d[n ! ra9-flood is c]ta9ly ! great]4 ,9 g5]al1 ! v>iations 9 ! wat]-level are m m>k$ 9 ! high] l&s1 & ! fur!r ! wat] fl[s d[n/ream ! m ! fluctuations t5d to disappe>4 ,is n our c\ntry h>d & t]rible to live 98 ,is n ! ,bombo ,*imbo's c\ntry 7,india7 bett]8 ask$ my ,tibetans4 ,i _c say t2 9 ,india !re are tig]s1 snakes1 poison\s insects1 heat1 fev]1 & plague to cont5d )1 :i* are n met ) up "h 9 ! fre% air4 ,yes1 b t is bett] ?an ! cont9ual w9d1 ! %>p cold1 & ! fruitless wait+ = ra94 ,?is ye> we h only _h a c\ple ( light %[]s1 & we %all lose our h]ds if m ra9 does n come4 ,well1 ! summ] 9 ,tibet is v pleasant :5 x ra9s1 :ile 9 ,india x is suffocat+2 on ! o!r h&1 ! w9t] 9 ,tibet is sev]e & cruel1 b com=table 9 ,india4 ,tell u1 ,bombo ,*imbo1 is x y1 ) y\r glass & measur+ in/rum5ts1 t is keep+ back ! ra9 ?is ye>8 ,at ?is season x usually ra9s heavily1 b y p]haps pref] cle> wea!r1 to be able to see ! c\ntry & t ! roads may n be s(t4 ,no1 ,i long = ra9 z mu* z y1 = my animals are gett+ ?91 & _c eat _! fill ( ?is poor grass1 :i* has /ood "h s9ce la/ summ]4 ,only ! gods c control ! wea!r1 & ! sons ( m5 mu/ take ! ra9 & sun%9e z !y are s5t to !m f above4 ,!y look$ at "o ano!r d\btfully4 ,x 0 n ! fir/ "t t !y _h ascrib$ to me p[]s z great z ^? ( _! own gods1 & x w\ld h be5 difficult to h conv9c$ !m ( _! error4 ,at midnight ! m5 he>d a "o-ye>-old *ild cry+ & call+ = help on ! bank ( ! ,kubi-tsangpo4 ,!y woke "o ano!r 9 a/oni%m5t1 & ,rabsang & two ,tibetans w5t (f ) a gun1 ?9k+ t x 0 a gho/4 ,:5 !y came ne> !y he>d ! *ild weep+ q di/9ctly1 & our h]oes 7 s fright5$ t !y ?\ght x safe/ to make all ha/e back aga94 ,:5 ,i ask$ !m h[ !y knew t x 0 a ye>-old *ild1 !y answ]$1 t f ! s\nd x c\ld n h be5 y\ng] or old]4 ,:5 ,i sugge/$ t x might h be5 a wolf cub1 z !re 7 no human be+s 9 ! neighb\rhood1 !y decl>$ t x mu/ h be5 an uneasy _s w&]+ ab\t ! bank4 ,!re mu/ h be5 some?+ sup]natural ab\t1 = ,i dream$ 9 ! night t all ! fragm5ts ( bir* b>k :i* we _h se5 on our day's ride 7 lett]s ( invitation f ! ,mah>aja ( ,nepal1 t ,i _h accept$ ! invitation1 & 0 ly+ half asleep on a s(t c>pet ( grass & li/5+ to ! ru/le ( ! w>m w9d among ! c$>s ( ! ,himalayas4 ,! dream 0 s vivid t ,i c\ld n ?9k all day long ( any?+ else b ! w>m beautiful l& beh9d ! m\nta9s4 ,ev5 9 camp ,no4 #bjj ,i p]ceiv$ fairly cle>ly h[ ! l& lay1 b we 7 n yet at ! actual s\rce1 & !re=e we cont9u$ our m>* s\?-we/w>ds on ,july #ab4 ,! foot ( ! sn[y m\nta9s seem$ q ne>4 ,! riv] is broad1 & divid$ by isl&s ( mud into sev]al arms4 ,on ! left side ( ! valley1 :]e we m>*1 are a c\ple ( walls ( gre5 & black s*i/1 b else:]e old mora9es ext5d on all sides4 ,we cross a /ream fl[+ f ! c\ntry bel[ ,dongdong to jo9 ! ,kubi-tsangpo4 ,! ,tse*ung-tso is a small mora9e lake4 ,! valley bottom rises sl[ly1 & consi/s ( loose mat]ial sp>sely cov]$ ) grass4 ,occasionally a small erratic block ( grey granite is se54 ,rags1 dung1 & fragm5ts ( bone lie on ! summ] camp+-gr\nds4 ,at l5g? ! riv] becomes z broad z a small lake1 enclos$ 9 mora9ic rubbi% & drifts&4 ,we camp$ at ! /one wall ( ,%apka1 "o ( ! headqu>t]s ( ! nomads4 ,"h1 on ! "r bank ( ! ,kubi-tsangpo1 /&s a d>k purple ridge ( m$ium height ) pat*es ( sn[1 :i* melt 9 ! c\rse ( ! summ]4 ,! l& at ! foot ( ?is colossal m\nta9 is rem>kably flat1 & in/ead ( a cone ( detritus !re is a /ream exp&$ into a lake4 ,! wat] f ! melt+ sn[ has wa%$ away all solid matt]4 ,z we came to camp ,no4 #bja1 at a height ( #ae1hhc feet1 ! peaks disappe>$ 9 cl\ds1 b j be=e sunset ! sky cle>$ & ! la/ cl\ds float$ away l light :ite /eam ov] ! glaci]s ( ,ngomo-d+d+1 :i* cle>ly display$ _! gr& /ructure1 ) high lat]al mora9es & conc5tric r+s ( grey lumpy t]m9al mora9es4 ,! surface1 except :]e "h & !re blue crevasses yawn$ 9 ! ice1 0 :ite ) sn[ & ! por\s melt+ cru/4 ,:5 ! sun _h set1 n9e peaks 9 a l9e f s\?-ea/ to s\?-we/ /ood out ) rem>kable %>pness4 ,rav5-black p9nacles1 cliffs & ridges rise out ( ! :ite sn[fields1 & ! glaci]s em]ge f colossal portals4 ,a :ole village ( t5ts ris+ to heav56 ,! s\rce ( ! ,brahmaputra c\ld n be embelli%$ ) a gr&] & m magnific5t backgr\nd4 ,holy & ?rice holy are ^! m\nta9s1 :i* f _! cold lap give bir? & su/5ance to ! riv] celebrat$ f "t immemorial 9 leg5d & song1 ! riv] ( ,tibet & ,assam1 ! riv] p> excell5ce1 ! son ( ,brahma4 ,"o g5]ation aft] ano!r ( black ,tibetans has 9 ! c\rse ( ?\s&s ( ye>s li/5$ to its ro> betwe5 ! two l(tie/ m\nta9 sy/ems ( ! _w1 ! ,himalaya & ! ,trans-,himalaya1 & "o g5]ation aft] ano!r ( ! v>i\s tribes ( ,assam has wat]$ its fields ) its life-giv+ floods & drunk ( its bless$ wat]4 ,b :]e ! s\rce lay no "o knew4 ,?ree exp$itions _h det]m9$ its position approximately1 b none _h be5 !re4 ,no geography _h be5 able to tell u any?+ ( ! c\ntry r\nd ! s\rce ( ! ,brahmaputra4 ,only a small numb] ( nomads repair ?i!r ye>ly to sp5d a c\ple ( %ort summ] mon?s4 ,"h x is1 "h 9 ! front ( ?ree glaci] tongues1 t ! riv] s rev]$ by ! ,h9du tribes beg9s its c\rse ( "s #ahjj miles ?r\gh ! gr&e/ elevations ( ! _w1 f :i* its turbid volumes ( wat] roll fir/ to ! ea/1 !n s\?w>ds1 cutt+ a wild valley ?r\gh ! ,himalayas1 & f9ally fl[+ s\?-we/w>ds ov] ! pla9s ( ,assam4 ,! upp] ,brahmaputra1 ! ,tsangpo1 is truly ! *ief art]y ( ,tibet1 = )9 its dra9age bas9 is conc5trat$ ! great mass ( its population1 :ile its l[] c\rse is surr\nd$ by ! mo/ fruitful & popul\s prov9ces ( ,assam4 ,! ,brahmaputra is !re=e "o ( ! noble/ riv]s ( ! _w1 & few wat]ways h a m illu/ri\s desc5t & a m v>i$ & m glori\s c>e]1 = nations h gr[n up on its banks & h liv$ !re1 & _! hi/ory & culture h be5 intimately connect$ ) x s9ce ! e>lie/ times ( human records4 ,busi$ ) su* ?\ghts1 ,i w5t out aga9 9 ! ev5+ to gaze at ! cliffs ( ! n9e peaks :i* %[$ l dim mi/y %ad[s1 :ile ! ice & sn[fields bel[1 ( ! same col\r z ! sky1 7 n p]ceptible 9 ! night4 ,!n a fla% ( lightn+ blaz$ up beh9d ,kubi-gangri1 z ! :ole massive is call$1 & ! cre/ cr[n$ ) et]nal sn[ /ood sudd5ly out 9 %>p pit*-black cont\rs4 ,s+ul>1 entranc+ l&1 :]e _s voices are he>d 9 ! night & ! sky blazes up 9 blui% light4 ,i li/5$ = a long "t to ! brook ,%apka-*u1 g5tly trickl+ d[n its /ony b$ to ! bank ( ! ,kubi-tsangpo4 ,we _h /ill "s way to g be=e we came to ! actual s\rce1 & ,i c\ld n consci5ti\sly leave ,kubi-gangri )\t det]m9+ ! absolute height ( ! s\rce by ! boil+-po9t !rmomet]4 ,our ,tibetans 7 exce$+ly fri5dly1 & seem$ to take an int]e/ 9 %[+ u ?is po9t1 ( :i* ,i _h spok5 s (t5 dur+ ! pa/ days & ab\t :i* ,i _h put s _m que/ions4 ,i 0 really ?ankful =1 & ov]joy$ at1 ?is unexpect$ fav\rable opportunity ( fix+ ! position ( ! s\rce1 ?\gh ,i knew t my excursion to ,kubi-gangri c\ld only be a v cursory & defective reconnaissance4 ,a ?or\gh exploration ( ?is neighb\rhood w\ld require sev]al ye>s1 = ! summ] up "h is %ort & ! "t = "w is ov] 9 two mon?s4 ,b ?\gh ,i succe$$ 9 le>n+ only ! *ief outl9es ( ! physical geography1 ,i c c\nt ?is excursion z "o ( ! mo/ important ev5ts ( my la/ j\rney 9 ,tibet4 ,accord+ly1 we decid$ to ride up to ! s\rce next day1 ,july #ac4 ,only ,rabsang1 ,rob]t1 & a ,tibetan 7 to accompany me4 ,! re/ 7 to wait = our return "u ! comm& ( ,ts]+4 ,,*apt] ,,xliii ,,! ,,s\rce ,,( ,,! ,,sacr$ ,,riv]--,a ,,dep>ture ,we />t$ (f 9 beautiful wea!r1 n a cl\d hang+ ov] ! summits ( ,kubi-gangri4 ,we foll[$ ! left bank ( ! ,kubi-tsangpo1 & rode along ! foot ( ! huge mora9es1 :i* "h rise fully #dgj feet above ! valley bottom1 & :i* 7 =m]ly ?r[n up on ! left or we/]n side ( ! gigantic glaci]1 :5ce proce$$ all ! glaci] tongues n[ rema9+ only 9 %ort l5g?s4 ,! mora9ic "* is pla9ly recognizable1 sometimes 9 curv$ ridges & walls fall+ /eeply on bo? sides1 sometimes 9 r\nd$ hillocks ris+ "o above ano!r4 ,! surface is (t5 cov]$ ) f9e pebbles1 grass1 & lovely alp9e fl[]s try+ to make ! mo/ ( ! %ort summ]4 ,"h & !re a l&slip has tak5 place1 & !n x c be se5 t ! rock %[s no trace ( /ratification4 ,occasionally we pass granite b\ld]s1 b !y are small1 ! l>ge/ n m ?an #bhj cubic feet4 ,on ! valley bottom are swamps ) rank grass1 & wild-geese are enjoy+ ! summ] 9 ! ponds4 ,we twice met ) fre% spoor ( small h]ds ( wild yaks :i* _h mov$ (f to ! "r bank ( ! ,kubi-tsangpo4 ,! horses' ho(s spla%$ 9 ! swampy gr\nd1 seldom v>i$ by small pat*es ( b\ld] clay4 ,num]\s rivulets desc5d f ! mora9es4 ,!y are f$ by ! melt+ sn[fields1 & !re=e1 9 contra/ to ! glaci] brooks1 are cry/al cle>4 ,!y h erod$ deep valleys 9 ! mora9es1 & "o ( !m has deposit$ a great dejection cone at ! m\?1 ov] :i* ! brook falls 9 t5 *annels1 c>ry+ #ajf cubic feet ( wat]4 ,a v consid]able proportion ( ! upp] ,brahmaputra's wat] is d]iv$ f melt$ sn[4 ,rivulets ru%$ & spurt$ all ab\t 9 ! rubbi%1 & all came f ! sn[fields1 :i* /ruggl$ 9 va9 aga9/ ! heat ( ! spr+ sun4 ,n[ we h "r 9 front ( u ! imm5se glaci] :i* desc5ds f an ext5sive firn bas9 on ! we/]n foot ( ! ,muk*ung-simo massive4 ,betwe5 its t]m9al mora9es & ! old] mora9es we h skirt$1 a r volum9\s /ream has erod$ its valley4 ,its wat] is tol]ably cle> & gre51 s t x proce$s f sn[fields4 ,a little bel[ ! t]m9al mora9e x unites ) ! num]\s arms ( ! muddy glaci] /ream1 ( :i* ! l>ge/ is ! "o :i* fl[s ne>e/ to ! foot ( ! ,muk*ung massive4 ,ev5 #bjj y>ds bel[ ! conflu5ce ! gre5 wat] c be cle>ly di/+ui%$ f ! br[n1 b aft]w>ds ! cold curr5ts int]m+le4 ,:]e ! riv]1 /ill divid$ into a numb] ( me&]+ arms1 turns pa/ camp #bja to ! nor?-ea/1 x receives consid]able additions f ! glaci]s ly+ fur!r ea/1 & ?us ! ,kubi-tsangpo is =m$4 ,!n we ride up1 zigzagg+ among b\ld]s & pebble b$s1 ov] ridges1 banks1 & erosion furr[s1 ov] brooks & trea*]\s bog1 ov] grass & clumps ( bru%wood1 to a comm&+ po9t ( view on ! top ( ! old mora9e 7#af1dec feet74 ,be=e u is a *aos ( huge1 precipit\s1 fissur$1 black1 b>e rocks1 summits1 pyramids1 columns1 domes1 & ridges1 mora9es1 tongues ( ice1 sn[ & firn fields--a sc5e h>d to beat = wild gr&eur4 ,"h we made a halt1 & ,i drew ! panorama :ile ! horses graz$ on ! slopes4 ,! l>ge/ glaci]1 :i* comes f ! ,kubi-gangri prop]1 is entirely bel[ u1 & we h a bird's-eye view ( x4 ,x is f$ by ?ree diff]5t firn-fields1 & has two di/9ct m$ial mora9es1 :i* "h & !re rise into ridges :]e ! ice has be5 ?ru/ aside4 ,! "r lat]al mora9e is well def9$1 & is /ill p>tially cov]$ ) sn[4 ,! left is broad 9 its upp] "p b n>r[ bel[1 :]e ! gre5 /ream wa%es its base4 ,up above1 a glaci] f ! we/ runs into ! ma9 glaci]1 & :]e ! two jo9 ! side glaci] is ?r[n up into a mighty wall1 :i* m]ges into ! left lat]al mora9e ( ! o!r4 ,all ! bottom ( ! glaci] front is buri$ 9 rubbi%1 & ! ice peeps out only "h & !re4 ,"h are sev]al small %eets ( wat]1 "s ( an int5sely blue col\r1 o!rs br[n1 ) f9ely pulv]iz$ matt]1 %[+ t !y are connect$ ) ! wat] ( ! gr\nd mora9e4 ,two ( ^! small pools h v]tical sides ( blue ice l entrances to m>vell\s fairy grottos4 ,a s]ies ( m>g9al crevasses are /ill p>tly cov]$ ) sn[4 ,! t]m9al mora9e is a *aos ( m\nds1 pebbles1 & b\ld]s1 ) pat*es ( sn[ on ! %ady side4 ,9 a holl[ betwe5 ^! hillocks fl[s ! middle glaci] /ream1 aft] pass+ two pools4 ,! t]m9al mora9e does n increase 9 size1 = its mat]ial is sl[ly dis9tegrat$ & wa%$ away by ! /ream1 :i* w9ds 9 sev]al arms ov] ! ev5 b$ ( ! valley bottom j bel[ 9 ! mo/ caprici\s curves4 ,an excursion ov] ! surface ( ! glaci] w\ld n be difficult :5 "o 0 once up on x4 ,!re are _m dang]\s crevasses conceal$ "u ! sn[ :i* may be avoid$ by keep+ to ! rubbi% heaps ( ! m$ial mora9es4 ,! mass ( ! ,kubi-gangri1 :i* f our po9t ( view lies f>!/ to ! "r1 to ! we/-nor?-we/1 is call$ ,gave-t+2 f x desc5ds ! great side glaci]4 ,! front ( ! ma9 glaci]1 :]e ! l>ge/ ( all ! glaci] /reams ( ! ,kubi-gangri rises1 is ! actual s\rce ( ! ,brahmaputra4 ,! o!r /reams :i* ent] x s\?-ea/ ( camp #bja are small] & %ort]4 ,we c\ld n get to !m1 = ! horses sank too deep 9 ! s& & mud ( ! ma9 /ream4 ,on our return we made a halt at ! place :]e ! pr9cipal bran* ( ! ,kubi-tsangpo comes out f "u ! ice1 & ,i f\nd t ! s\rce ( ! ,brahmaputra lies at an altitude ( #ae1ieh feet above sea-level4 ,i mu/ leave details = ! sci5tific report ( ?is j\rney1 :i* w be publi%$ 9 due "t4 ,on ,july #ad x seem$ v hot 9 my t5t1 = ev5 at sev5 o'clock 9 ! morn+ ! temp]ature 0 #de4a2 9 ! night !re _h be5 ne>ly #ad degrees ( fro/4 ,! sky 0 p]fectly cle>1 & !re=e ,i c\ld n refra9 f seek+ ano!r po9t ( view to inve/igate ! beautiful glaci]s ( ! ,kubi-gangri4 ,aft] arrang+ ) ,ts]+ t he %\ld meet u 9 ! valley ( ! ,dongdong riv]1 we rode up ! banks & ridges ( ! old mora9e1 ?r\gh its holl[s & ov] its t]races ( b>r5 soil1 :i* 0 n[ s(t & trea*]\s f ! melt+ ( ! sn[1 pa/ pools ( cle>1 gre5 wat]1 & to ! highe/ po9t ( its ridge1 :]e !re 0 no?+ to hide ! view4 ,i fir/ took n9e photographs1 =m+ a consecutive s]ies4 ,!n a cloak 0 ?r[n ov] ! /& to make a %elt] aga9/ ! /rong w9d1 & 9 ?is s5try-box ,i sat = ne>ly f\r h\rs draw+ a panorama :i* embrac$ ! :ole horizon4 ,mean:ile my companions lay d[n & snor$1 & ,i 0 glad to sit alone face to face ) ^! royal m\nta9 giants4 ,! :ole ar*itecture is fanta/ically wild1 & ! only law :i* is /rictly obs]v$ is t ea* glaci] is conf9$ betwe5 two huge black cre/s ( rock4 ,illu/ration3 #bdb4 ,,panorama ,,( ,,kubi-,,gangri ,,& ,,! ,,langta-,,*5 ,,glaci]1 ,,) ,,! ,,s\rce ,,( ,,! ,,brahmaputra 7,,f ,a ,,height ,,( #af1dec ,,feet1 ,,july #ac1 #aijg74 ,sket* by ! ,au?or4 ,9 ord] to give ! read] a notion ( ! sc5e ,i "h reproduce a "p ( ! panorama embrac+ ! ,kubi-gangri 7,illu/4 #bdb74 ,to ! s\?1 #bg ,e41 is a tetrah$ral peak1 :i* our guide call$ ,ngoma-d+d+4 ,to ! s\?1 #aa ,e41 rises ano!r summit1 ( almo/ precisely ! same =m1 :i* is call$ ,absi4 ,on ! ea/ ( x lies ! ,ngoma-d+d+ glaci]1 & on ! we/ ! ,absi glaci]4 ,we/ ( ?is /&s ! lumpy ,muk*ung-simo gr\p1 ) its culm9at+ po9t ly+ s\?1 #bd ,w4 ,! nor!rn side resembles a /able ) /raight %ort /alls1 ea* conta9+ a small hang+ glaci]4 ,to ! s\?-we/ rise two %>p p9nacles1 & 9 ! s\?1 #eg ,w41 a c\ple ( dome-%ap$ summits consi/+ only ( ice & sn[2 !y belong to ! ,langta-*5 massive1 & _! firns fe$ to a great ext5t ! glaci] 9 ! front ( :i* ! ,brahmaputra takes its rise4 ,s ! glaci] may be call$ ! ,langta-*54 ,to ! s\?1 #gj ,w41 #hh ,w41 & nor?1 #hc ,w41 rise ! summits ( ! ,gave-t+ gr\p4 ,to ! nor?1 #ee ,w41 ?ree peaks ( ! ,dongdong appe>1 f :i* "o ( ! s\rces ( ! ,brahmaputra takes its rise1 q insignificant comp>$ to ! ,kubi-tsangpo4 ,t[>ds ! nor?-ea/ ! %>ply def9$ valley ( ! ,kubi-tsangpo runs d[nw>ds1 & 9 ! di/ance are se5 ! m\nta9s ( ,*ang-tang1 pyramidal peaks ( s+ul> uni=mity1 & cr[d$ toge!r 9 great numb]s1 :i* =m a f9ely jagg$ horizon1 & 9 consequ5ce ( ! great di/ance m]ge into ! p9k t9t ( ! insignificant sn[fields4 ,! ,trans-,himalaya seems on ?is side to wid5 out & become flatt] ?an 9 ! ea/4 ,x 0 late :5 we rode d[n ! /eep pa? to ! camp on ! ,dongdong4 ,& n[ we _h to hurry we/w>ds & make z _m discov]ies & collect z mu* in=mation z possible on =bidd5 pa?s1 9 spite ( ! ,m&>9s & ! ,deva%ung4 ,on ,july #ae we left our =m] r\te to ! "r & direct$ our /eps nor?w>ds ov] intricate mora9es1 see+ ! sn[y peaks ( ,dongdong & ,*ema-yundung /ill m cle>ly f ! pass ,k>gan-la4 ,on ! #af? ! sky 0 ov]ca/1 a c\ple ( hail %[]s fell1 & ! hills ar\nd u *ang$ to :ite4 ,we rode nor?-we/w>ds pa/ two small lakes1 & aga9 fell 9 ) solid rock--gre5 & black s*i/4 ,f ! ,tugri-la we _h a f9e view ov] a _w ( m\nta9s1 ! names ( :i* ,i h no "t to record4 ,we cross$ ano!r saddle1 ,s5-kamba-la1 to rea* ! broad op5 valley ( ! ,*ema-yundung riv]1 :i* desc5ds f a v ext5sive glaci] 9 ! s\? belong+ to ! ,*ema-yundung-pu massive4 ,"h 7 sev]al nomad t5ts1 & sev5 t5ts inhabit$ by pilgrims f ,bongba /ood on a rise4 ,!y 7 on _! way ) ki? & k9 to ,kang-r9po*e to make ! pilgrimage r\nd ! holy m\nta94 ,mo/ ( ! pilgrims f ! f> ea/ take ?is s\!rn r\te & return ov] ! ,m>ium-la4 ,july #ag4 ,x 0 v hot 9 ! saddle ) a temp]ature ( #ej & q calm air4 ,! br[n puppy 0 v tir$ ( travell+1 & drops fell f h] hang+ tongue1 b %e c\ld n leave ! antelopes & h>es 9 peace4 ,%e d>t$ aft] !m full spe$1 b nev] caught !m1 & came back to me disappo9t$1 b began aga9 ! useless pursuit4 ,! ,ronggak-*u is an afflu5t ( ! ,*ema1 & comes f ! nor?-we/4 ,we left ! little d\ble lake ,kuru-*ok 9 ! s\?4 ,to ! we/-s\?-we/ is ! place :]e ! ,*ema-yundung receives ! ,angsi-*u1 ! mo/ we/]ly ( all ! headwat]s ( ! ,brahmaputra4 ,9 ! valley ( ! ,tyn*ung we encamp$ beside "s accommodat+ nomads1 :o quickly procur$ me fre% yaks1 = ! ?ree muskete]s turn$ back "h to ,%amsang1 aft] do+ _! "w well4 ,! :ole excursion to ! s\rces ( ! ,brahmaputra _h co/ #aaj rupees1 & x 0 well wor? m4 ,! natives said t t5 robb]s _h rec5tly made ! neighb\rhood unsafe1 b imm$iately x 0 report$ t a ,european c>avan 0 approa*+ ,tyn*ung1 !y _h entirely disappe>$1 & !re=e we 7 reg>d$ z deliv]]s1 & ! p c\ld n d too mu* = u4 ,a ,h9du m]*ant f ,almora 0 camp+ "h1 buy+ %eep's wool & salt f ! nomads1 & sell+ !m frieze rugs & textiles f ,agra & ,amrits>4 ,next day we cross$ ! ,m>nyak-la 7#ag1cie feet7 & _h ! ,angsi-*u imm$iately bel[ u1 & on ! #ai? we left ! riv] beh9d & foll[$ its small tribut>y1 ! ,loang-gonga1 up to its s\rce at ! v l[ pass ,tamlung or ,tag-la1 :i* is no?+ m ?an a rise 9 an op5 longitud9al valley4 ,b ?is pass is exce$+ly important1 = x is ! wat]%$ betwe5 ! ,brahmaputra & ,manas>[>4 ,its height is #ag1chb feet4 ,to ! s\? is spread out a succession ( sn[y peaks1 & to ! we/-s\?-we/ is se5 ,gurla ,m&atta or ,memo-nani1 a maje/ic & impos+ gr\p :i* belongs to ! same ,himalayan range z ,kubi-gangri4 ,! pass is situat$ among old mora9es1 :]e is ! little insignificant lake ,tamlung-tso1 f :i* ! ,loang-gonga fl[s out4 ,at "s di/ance to ! s\? is se5 ! l[ wat]%$ betwe5 ! ,angsi-*u & ! ,gang-lung1 a /ream t comes f a massive ( ! same "n1 &1 z ! ,tage-tsangpo1 falls into ,manas>[>4 ,! v late/ maps ( we/]n ,tibet give a v incorrect repres5tation ( ?is c\ntry1 :i* has nev] be5 visit$ by a ,european be=e4 ,in/ead ( a cle>ly m>k$ m]idional range we f\nd an op51 hilly1 longitud9al valley ) ! wat]%$ runn+ among its mora9es4 ,"h we took leave ( ! ,brahmaputra1 aft] pass+ half a ye> 9 its bas9 s9ce cross+ ! ,sela-la4 ,we encamp$ at a place :]e ! ,gang-lung riv] breaks ?r\gh a ramp>t ( mora9es1 =m+ foam+ cascades4 ,dur+ ! foll[+ day's j\rney x fl[s ?r\gh granitic mora9es1 drift s&1 & morasses1 & becomes a consid]able /ream1 receiv+ num]\s afflu5ts f ! s\?4 ,a c>avan ( #ej yaks1 & eight m5 f ,purang1 arm$ ) guns1 & clad 9 blue ) fur-l9$ cloaks1 7 on ! way to ! fair 9 ,gyanima4 ,9 ! di/rict ,tagramo*e1 :]e we biv\ack$1 7 _m nomads & begg>s ) /aves & bundles on ! way to ! holy m\nta94 ,we also met six m]*ants f ,ladak1 :o 7 c>ry+ dri$ pea*es = sale on #de asses4 ,!y _h left home a mon? & a half previ\sly4 ,on ,july #ba we rode d[n ! ,tage-bup valley among savage cliffs4 ,on its bottom fl[s ! ,tage-tsangpo1 *ang+ its col\r f light gre5 ov] s&y gr\nd to blui%-purple ov] d>k detritus4 ,lang*5-kamba is a small side-valley on ! "r1 f :i* robb]s are wont to sally =? aga9/ def5celess travell]s4 ,j bel[ ! valley a spr+ bubbles =? ) cry/al-cle> wat] at a temp]ature ( #ch4 ,x is consid]$ holy1 & is m>k$ by a pole b$eck$ ) rags & /ream]s l a sc>e-cr[4 ,?is spr+ is also call$ ,lang*5-kamba4 ,a little f>!r d[n ! spr+ ,*akko /&s on a /eep slope on ! "r bank1 & its wat] 7#dj4c7 is collect$ 9 a r\nd pit #c feet deep4 ,a wall is erect$ ab\t x1 cov]$ ) flat /ones1 on :i* figures ( ,buddha & holy texts are c>v$4 ,leaves f ! holy scriptures are ?ru/ betwe5 ! /ones ( ! wall1 & /ream]s & rags fly f a pole4 ,?r\gh ! wat]1 cle> z a mirror1 c\ld be se5 blue & r$ beads1 two inf]ior turquoises1 "s %ells1 & o!r tra%1 ?r[n 9 z (f]+s by pi\s pilgrims4 ,! wat] is suppos$ to h miracul\s p[]s4 ,murmur+ pray]s1 our guide fill$ a wood5 b[l ) wat] & p\r$ x ov] ! head & mane ( 8 horse to protect x f wolves4 ,) ! same object he ti$ a rag f ! pole on to 8 horse's =elock4 ,he drank himself a good draught to r5d] him invuln]able to ! bullets ( robb]s4 ,if a %eep or o!r animal is ill x is only necess>y to spr9kle x ) ! holy wat] to make x well aga94 ,:5 a travell] or pilgrim /&s at ! well & p\rs wat] ) bo? h&s ov] 8 head1 x gu>ds him aga9/ fall+ into ! h&s ( footpads1 & f o!r mis=tunes4 ,& if he sits & m$itates1 dr9ks1 & wa%es 8 head1 h&s1 & legs1 & has suffici5t fai?1 !n he f9ds gold co9s & preci\s /ones at ! bottom ( ! well4 ,! sick man :o ba!s 8 :ole body 9 ! miracul\s wat] becomes /rong aga94 ,x is a ,l\rdes 9 m9iature4 ,:ile my m5 7 engag$ 9 _! ablutions ,i sat at ! edge ( ! well & li/5$ to ! my/ical music ( ! flutt]+ pray]-/ream]s1 & f\nd ?is fasc9at+ ,tibet m enigmatical at e /ep4 ,!n we rode ov] ! ,tage-tsangpo1 :]e its valley op5s into ! flat bas9 ( ,manas>[>--a new *apt] 9 ! *ronicles ( our j\rney4 ,aga9 ,gurla ,m&atta %[$ itself 9 all its glory1 & 9 ! nor?-we/ ,kang-r9po*e or ,kailas1 ! holy m\nta91 l a great *hort5 on a lama's grave1 rose above ! jagg$ ridge :i* =ms ! horizon 9 t direction4 ,on see+ x all our m5 sudd5ly jump$ out ( _! saddles & ?rew !mselves d[n ) _! =eheads on ! gr\nd4 ,only ,rabsang1 a confirm$ hea!n1 rema9$ seat$ on 8 horse1 & 0 aft]w>ds well scold$ by ,ts]+4 ,illu/ration3 #bdc1 #bdd1 #bde4 ,,! ,,m\nta9s ,,at ,,! ,,s\rce ,,( ,,! ,,brahmaputra4 ,we are n[ out on op5 hilly gr\nd1 & see a glimpse ( ! holy lake ,tso-mavang or ,manas>[>4 ,we encamp by a small lake call$ ,tso-nyak1 :i!r come ,islam ,ahun & ,%ukkur ,ali1 s5t by ,guff>u1 :o is become uneasy at our long abs5ce4 ,we s5d !m back aga9 to ,tok*5 ) ord]s to ,guff>u to proce$ to ! mona/]y ,s]olung-gompa on ! holy lake1 :]e we w meet him4 ,on ,july #bb we rode ov] ! ,tage-tsangpo1 :i* "h c>ri$ #bia cubic feet ( wat]1 :]e ,rabsang got a ?or\gh wett+ 9 consequ5ce ( 8 horse com+ a cropp] among ! b\ld]s 9 ! b$4 ,ts]+ said t he des]v$ a dip because he _h n salut$ ,kang-r9po*e4 ,camp #baj 0 set up 9 ! broad valley ,nam>d+1 :]e a cle> brook fl[s to ! ,tage-tsangpo4 ,! w9d blew /rongly1 & ! ,tibetans said t ! waves on ,tso-mavang 7 z high & d>k z nomad t5ts4 ,%\ld we v5ture 9 our little canvas boat on ! lake1 expos$ to all ! w9ds8 ,x mu/ be v r\gh be=e ,i cons5t$ to give up ! trip1 = ! lake _h long be5 ! subject ( my dreams4 ,next morn+ ,tundup ,sonam appe>$ ) ! news t ! ,gova ( ,tok*5 w\ld n let 8 yaks on hire = ! j\rney to ,s]olung4 ,i _h !re=e to ride to ,tok*5 by a road ov] ! pass ,k>bu-la1 & d[n ! riv] ,samo-tsangpo2 x is full ( fi%1 b we 7 ask$ n to di/urb !m1 = !y came up f ! holy lake4 ,we 7 all toge!r aga9 9 ,tok*51 & ,i f\nd ! ,gova a dec5t fell[1 :o welcom$ me ) a l>ge kadakh & a b[l ( tsamba4 ,n[ an h\r ( p>t+ 0 come1 = ,i s5t f ,tok*5 ?irte5 ( my m5 home to ,ladak4 ,i _h sev]al reasons = ?is4 ,i did n ne$ s _m m5 9 we/]n ,tibet2 twelve 7 en\gh1 & a small1 light c>avan accompli%es m & does n excite s mu* notice4 ,! m5 7 to travel along ! great highway to ,g>tok "u ! exp]i5c$ lead]%ip ( ,guff>u1 & !re deposit all ! baggage ,i c\ld sp>e ) ! ,briti% ag5t1 ,?akur ,jai ,*&4 ,i also s5t to him a lett] packet ( ?ree hundr$ pages to my p>5ts1 beside o!r correspond5ce4 ,( p>ticul> importance 0 a lett] to ,colonel ,dunlop ,smi?1 9 :i* ,i ask$ = #fjjj rupees1 provisions1 books1 revolv]s & ammunition1 & ?+s suitable = pres5ts1 su* z gold & silv] wat*es1 z well z all ! lett]s :i* mu/ h accumulat$ at ! ,vic]egal ,lodge4 ,on ! fir/ ev5+1 :5 ,i call$ toge!r all ! tw5ty-five m5 & told !m my decision to s5d away ?irte51 & ask$ :i* ( !m wi%$ to g home1 no "o answ]$4 ,!y decl>$ t !y w\ld foll[ me until ,i 0 tir$ ( ,tibet4 ,!n ,i pick$ out ?irte5 & reta9$ ! be/ twelve m54 ,among ^! 0 ,ta%i1 :o ) ,tundup ,sonam _h accompli%$ ! adv5tur\s j\rney to ,%igatse4 ,b :5 he saw t ,i 0 9 e>ne/ ab\t ! divid+ ( ! c>avan1 he begg$ me to let him g home1 s he 0 ex*ang$ = ano!r man4 ,we /ay$ "h two days to put ev]y?+ 9 ord]4 ,aft] ! baggage 0 re-arrang$ ,i _h only f\r boxes left1 & ! re/ 7 to be c>ri$ away by ,guff>u4 ,rob]t sat 9 my t5t l a money-*ang] & pil$ up sov]eigns & rupees 9 small heaps1 ! pay1 gratuities1 & travell+ exp5ses ( ! m5 :o 7 go+ home4 ,our treasury 0 reliev$ ( #baah rupees all at once4 ,! important correspond5ce 0 enclos$ 9 a case1 :i* ,guff>u c>ri$ 9 8 belt4 ,! m5 ) him 7 all[$ to keep two ( our five guns4 ,late 9 ! ev5+ ,guff>u came to my t5t to receive 8 la/ in/ructions4 ,hone/ old ,guff>u1 he _h 9 ! autumn ( 8 life p]=m$ wond]s 9 ! w9t] 9 ,*ang-tang1 always compos$ & cont5t$1 always do+ 8 duty 9 ! smalle/ p>ticul>4 ,n[ he sat1 ) ! te>s fall+ on to 8 :ite be>d1 & ?ank$ me = all ,i _h done = him dur+ ! pa/ ye>4 ,i bade him weep no m1 b rejoice t ! h>d "t 0 ov] = him1 & t he c\ld return safe & s\nd to 8 p ) #djj rupees 9 8 purse4 ,:5 we left ,leh he 0 z poor z a *ur* m\se1 & n[ he 0 a ri* man = 8 position1 & he _h n ne$$ 8 %r\d4 ,i told him t ,i %\ld miss him v mu*1 b t ,i c\ld n entru/ ! valuable baggage & important lett]s to any o!r h&s b 84 ,:5 ,i came out ( my t5t e>ly on ! morn+ ( ! #bf? ! #ac yaks 7 lad5 & ! ?irte5 m5 7 ready to m>* (f ) _! ,tibetan guides4 ,i ?ank$ !m = _! fai?fulness & pati5ce dur+ ! "t :5 !y 7 expos$ to s _m dang]s 9 my s]vice1 begg$ !m to rememb] t !y 7 responsible = ! c>avan on ! way home1 & told !m t !y mu/ obey ,guff>u1 & t _! "* w\ld suff] if !y did n be> ) "o ano!r on ! way4 ,if !y 7 z consci5ti\s on ?is j\rney z 9 my s]vice1 x w\ld be well = !m 9 ! future1 & p]haps our pa?s might cross aga94 ,!n old ,guff>u came =w>d1 & fell on 8 knees be=e me1 weep+ l\dly1 & all ! o!rs 9 turn foll[$ 8 example amid sobs & te>s2 ,i clapp$ !m all on ! %\ld] & hop$ t ?is bitt] h\r w\ld soon be ov]4 ,!n !y took leave ( _! comrades1 :o1 deeply mov$1 s5t greet+s to _! p>5ts1 wives1 & *ildr5 9 ,ladak1 & !y m>*$ (f on foot1 z !y _h travell$ s _m hundr$ miles1 sil5t1 droop+1 & d[nca/1 & soon disappe>$ beh9d ! hills4 ,,*apt] ,,xliv ,a ,,night ,,on ,,manas>[> ,aft] ,guff>u _h set out ) 8 m51 ! small c>avan 0 organiz$ :i* 0 to accompany me4 ,x 0 l$ by ,ts]+1 & ! o!r m5 left 7 ,bulu1 ,tundup ,sonam1 ,rabsang1 ,rehim ,ali1 ,%ukkur ,ali1 ,namgyal1 ,adul1 ,i%e1 ,lama1 ,galsang1 & ,rub ,das4 ,! ,gova ( ,tok*5 0 giv5 a ,ka%mir %awl1 a turban1 & "s rupees = ! s]vices he _h r5d]$ u1 & all ! o!r ,tibetans :o _h be5 fri5dly & helpful receiv$ pres5ts4 ,! divid+ ( ! c>avan _h also ! advantage t ! ,tibetans suppos$ t we 7 all mak+ = ! same de/9ation by diff]5t r\tes1 & t ,i %\ld jo9 ,guff>u 9 ,g>tok & cont9ue my j\rney to ,ladak1 z direct$ on ! passport4 ,illu/ration3 #bdf4 ,,tibetans ,,on ,,! ,,bank ,,( ,,! ,,soma-,,tsangpo4 ,illu/ration3 #bdg4 ,,gr\p ,,( ,,natives ,,( ,,langm>4 ,) ,rob]t1 ,rabsang1 & two ,tibetans ,i n[ ride d[n ! ,tok*5 valley & up ov] ! hills to ! s\?-we/4 ,to ! "r ( our r\te ! turquoise-blue surface ( ! holy lake is display$2 h[ beautiful1 h[ fasc9at+ is ! sc5e6 ,"o seems to brea! m freely & easily1 "o feels a pleasure 9 life1 "o longs to voyage ov] ! blue dep?s & ! sacr$ waves4 ,= ,manas>[> is ! holie/ & mo/ fam\s ( all ! lakes ( ! _w1 ! goal ( ! pilgrimage ( innum]able pi\s ,h9dus1 a lake celebrat$ 9 ! mo/ anci5t religi\s hymns & songs1 & 9 its cle> wat]s ! a%es ( ,h9dus f9d a grave z desirable & hon\r$ z 9 ! turbid wat]s ( ! ,ganges4 ,dur+ my /ay 9 ,india ,i receiv$ lett]s f ,h9dus 9 :i* !y ask$ me to explore ! rev]$ lake & ! holy m\nta9 ,kailas1 :i* lifts its summit 9 ! nor? "u a cupola ( et]nal sn[1 :]e ,siva1 "o ( ! ,indian ,tr9ity1 dwells 9 h] p>adise among a ho/ ( o!r deities2 & !y told me t if ,i c\ld give !m an exact description ( ! lake & riv]1 !y w\ld rememb] me 9 _! pray]s & _! gods w\ld bless me4 ,b t 0 n :y ,i long$ to be !re4 ,! lake _h nev] be5 s\nd$--,i w\ld s9k my lead to ! bottom & make a map ( its b$2 ,i w\ld foll[ its p]iph]y & calculate h[ mu* wat] p\rs into its bosom on a summ] day2 ,i w\ld inve/igate its hydrographic relation to ! adjac5t lake on ! we/1 ! ,rakas-tal1 a problem :i* v>i\s travell]s 9 ?is region1 f ,moorcr(t & ,/ra*ey to ,ryd] & ,rawl+1 h expla9$ diff]5tly2 ,i w\ld le>n some?+ ( ! mona/]ies & ! life ( ,h9du & ,tibetan pilgrims1 = ! lake is sacr$ 9 ! eyes ( ,lamai/s also1 :o call x ,tso-mavang or ,tso-r9po*e1 ! ,holy ,lake4 ,h[ c ,manas>[> & ,kailas be ! objects ( div9e hon\rs f two religions s diff]5t z ,h9duism & ,lamaism unless x is t _! ov]p[]+ beauty has appeal$ to & deeply impress$ ! human m9d1 & t !y seem$ to belong r to heav5 ?an to e>?8 ,ev5 ! fir/ view f ! hills on ! %ore caus$ u to bur/ into te>s ( joy at ! wond]ful1 magnific5t l&scape & its surpass+ beauty4 ,! oval lake1 some:at n>r[] 9 ! s\? ?an ! nor?1 & ) a diamet] ( ab\t #ae miles1 lies l an enorm\s turquoise emb$d$ betwe5 two ( ! f9e/ & mo/ fam\s m\nta9 giants ( ! _w1 ! ,kailas 9 ! nor? & ,gurla ,m&atta 9 ! s\?1 & betwe5 huge ranges1 above :i* ! two m\nta9s uplift _! cr[ns ( bright :ite et]nal sn[4 ,yes1 already ,i felt ! /rong fasc9ation :i* held me fett]$ to ! banks ( ,manas>[>1 & ,i knew t ,i w\ld n will+ly leave ! lake be=e ,i _h li/5$1 until ,i 0 we>y1 to ! song ( its waves4 ,we sat an h\r & enjoy$ ! incomp>able beauty ( ! sc5e4 ,a slight ripple ruffl$ ! surface ( ! wat]1 b 9 ! middle ! lake 0 z smoo? z if oil _h be5 p\r$ on x4 ,! ,tibetans said t x 0 always smoo? 9 ! middle except :5 a /orm rag$4 ,to ! s\?-s\?-we/ & s\?-we/ are se5 ! two summits ( ,gurla ,m&atta1 ! we/]n v flat1 & rem9d+ me ( ! ,mu/ag-ata 9 ! ea/]n ,pamir4 ,! ,tibetans call$ ! m\nta9 sometimes ,namo1 sometimes ,memo-nani4 ,s\?1 #fj ,w41 a r[ ( sn[y heights rise beh9d ! ,purang valley4 ,to ! we/-nor?-we/ is se5 ! small pyramidal hill :]e ,*iu-gompa /&s on ! bank ( ! wat] *annel :i* once ran into ,rakas-tal4 ,to ! nor?-we/ a c\ple ( lagoons lie on ! %ore ( ,manas>[>1 & beh9d !m rise *a9s & ramifications belong+ to ! ,trans-,himalaya1 & among !m ,kailas or ,kang-r9po*e1 ! ,holy ,m\nta91 call$ also ,gangri or ! ,ice ,m\nta91 dom9ates ! horizon unless its summit is veil$ 9 cl\ds4 ,& la/ly1 to ! nor?1 #bj ,w41 we see ! d\ble-peak$ ,pundi1 n f> f ! %ore1 & 9 ! nor? ! two valleys ,pa*5 & ,pa*ung1 ) roads :i* lead ov] ! wat]%$ ( ! ,trans-,himalaya to ,*ang-tang4 ,:5 ,i ask$ our guides :at !y ?\ght ( a boat trip across ! lake1 !y answ]$ unhesitat+ly t x 0 impossible2 mortals :o v5tur$ on ! lake1 :i* 0 ! home ( ! gods1 mu/ p]i%4 ,also 9 ! middle ,tso-mavang 0 n level z on ! %ore1 b =m$ a transp>5t dome1 & up its r\nd ar* no boat c\ld m\nt2 & ev5 if we succe$$ 9 gett+ ! boat up1 x w\ld %oot d[n ! o!r side ) su* velocity t x mu/ capsize1 & we %\ld p]i% 9 ! waves because we _h excit$ ! wra? ( ! god ( ! lake4 ,we m\nt$ aga9 & rode s\?-s\?-we/ ov] ! hills to ,s]olung1 ! gold5 valley1 :]e ! mona/]y ,s]olung-gompa is hidd5 9 ! holl[4 ,!re ,i /ay$ f\r h\rs1 mak+ sket*es & notes4 ,s]olung1 :i* conta9s ?irty monks1 mo/ ( :om 7 away w&]+ among ! villages1 is "o ( ! eight conv5ts :i* are set l preci\s /ones 9 ! *a9 :i* ! pilgrims /ret* r\nd ! lake1 9 ! hope ( acquir+ m]it 9 a future =m ( exi/5ce1 ( be+ fre$ f ! burd5 ( s9 & ! tortures ( purgatorial fires1 nay1 p]haps1 ( sitt+ at ! feet ( ! gods & eat+ tsamba out ( gold5 b[ls4 ,our camp ,no4 #bab 0 pit*$ imm$iately s\? ( ! m\? ( ! ,s]olung valley at ! wat]'s edge4 ,! /rip ( gr\nd on ! bank is q n>r[1 & on ! hills ris+ to ! ea/ ( x are visible six horizontal /r& l9es1 ! highe/ ly+ #afb feet above ! pres5t level ( ! lake1 :i* is #ae1jih feet above ! sea4 ,on ,july #bg ,i _h a good sleep1 & sp5t ! re/ ( ! day 9 mak+ prep>ations = ! fir/ l9e ( s\nd+s1 :i* 0 to cross ! lake 9 a direction s\?1 #ei ,w41 :]e a gap appe>$ 9 ! hills fram+ ! lake4 ,we wait$ = good wea!r1 b ! w9d blew viol5tly & ! surf beat & foam$ aga9/ ! %ore4 ,i !re=e resolv$ to wait till night1 = ( late ! nights _h be5 calm] ?an ! days4 ,on a trial trip we _h f\nd a dep? ( #acj feet n f> f ! %ore1 s we made ready a s\nd+ l9e #dij feet long4 ,p]haps ev5 ?is w\ld n be long en\gh1 = a lake ly+ among su* high m\nta9s is sure to be deep4 ,%ukkur ,ali 0 to g ) me1 & he accept$ 8 fate ) 8 usual composure1 b ,rehim ,ali1 ! o!r victim1 0 fright5$2 x 0 all v well 9 ! day1 he said1 b 9 ! d>k gloomy night on su* a great lake6 ,we %\ld c]ta9ly h ! same tr\ble z on ,lake ,light51 he ?\ght4 ,:5 ! sun set ! w9d increas$ 9 /r5g?1 & heavy cl\ds spread up f ! s\?-we/4 ,at sev5 o'clock x 0 pit* d>k all r\nd1 n a /> %one out1 n a trace 0 visible ( ! outl9e ( ! %ore & ( ! sn[y m\nta9s1 & ! sea 0 buri$ 9 ! %ades ( night4 ,b an h\r lat] ! w9d fell1 ! air became q calm1 b ! waves beat 9 a monoton\s rhy?m on ! bank4 ,! smoke ( ! camp fires rose /raight up into ! air4 ,!n ,i gave ord]s to set out4 ,! baggage 0 /[$ & ! ma/ /epp$ to be ready if we _h a fav\rable w9d4 ,provisions = two days 7 put 9 ! boat4 ,i wore a lea!rn ve/1 ,ka%mir boots1 & an ,indian helmet1 & sat on a cu%ion & a fold$ fur coat on ! lee side ( ! rudd]1 on ! o!r side ( :i* ! s\nd+-l9e ) its knots lay ready on ! gunwale4 ,! log1 ,ly?'s curr5t met]1 0 atta*$ to ! boat to regi/] ! :ole l5g? ( ! c\rse1 & compass1 wat*1 note-book1 & map %eets all lay close beside me1 light$ by a ,*9ese pap] lant]n1 :i* c\ld be cov]$ ) a t[el :5 we did n want ! light4 ,i us$ ! t[el aft] e s\nd+ to dry my h&s4 ,rehim ,ali took 8 seat =w>d1 ,%ukkur ,ali 9 ! /]n half ( ! boat1 :]e we 7 cramp$ = room & _h to take c>e t we did n get entangl$ 9 ! s\nd+-l9e4 ,ts]+ took a sceptical view ( ! :ole adv5ture4 ,he said t ! lake 0 full ( wond]s1 & at ! be/ we %\ld be driv5 back by my/]i\s p[]s :5 we _h r[$ a little way out4 ,& a ,tibetan agre$ ) him1 say+ t we %\ld nev] rea* ! we/]n %ore ?\gh we r[$ ) all our might1 = ! lake god w\ld hold our boat fa/1 & :ile we ?\ght t x 0 advanc+ x w\ld really rema9 on ! same spot1 & f9ally ! angry god w\ld draw x d[n to ! bottom4 ,rob]t _h ord]s to wait at camp ,no4 #bab = our return1 & :5 we put (f f ! bank at n9e o'clock all bade u f>ewell 9 z w>m & g5tle a tone z ?\gh !y ?\ght t !y _h se5 ! la/ ( u4 ,_! spirits 7 n rais$ by ! lightn+ :i* fla%$ 9 ! s\? & might port5d a /orm4 ,! d>kness1 h[ev]1 0 n s int5se1 = ! moon 0 com+ up1 ?\gh x 0 /ill cov]$ by ! hills ris+ beh9d our camp4 ,b its light ?rew a weird gleam ov] ! lake1 & 9 ! s\? ,gurla ,m&atta rose l a gho/ envelop$ 9 a %eet ( moon%9e1 sn[fields1 & glaci]s4 ,at my comm&1 ! boatm5 took a firm grip ( ! o>s & ! boat glid$ out f ! bea*1 :]e our m5 /ood 9 a sil5t ?\ghtful gr\p4 ,our fires 7 se5 = a :ile1 b soon disappe>$1 = !y 7 burn+ almo/ on a level ) ! wat]4 ,rob]t told me aft]w>ds t ! little boat sail+ out into ! d>kness 0 a curi\s sight2 ow+ to ! lant]n & ! reflexion ( ! light on ! ma/ ! boat 0 visible at fir/1 b :5 x rea*$ ! moon-light$ "p ( ! lake x appe>$ only z a small black spot1 :i* soon vani%$4 ,! great lake 0 d>k & my/]i\s 9 ! night1 & unkn[n dep?s lurk$ b5ea? u4 ,! cont\rs ( ! hills on ! %ore 7 /ill visible beh9d u1 b we _h n gone f> be=e !y 7 swall[$ up by high] m\nta9s f>!r (f1 :i* gradually came into view4 ,aft] tw5ty m9utes' r[+ we /opp$ & let d[n ! l9e1 s\nd+ #ace feet4 ,! ro> ( ! surf on ! bea* 0 ! only s\nd 9 ! sil5ce ( night1 except ! spla% ( ! o>s & ! voices ( ! o>sm5 s++ 9 "t ) _! /rokes4 ,at ! next s\nd+ ! dep? 0 #ada feet4 ,if ! bottom did n fall m rapidly our l9e w\ld be long en\gh4 ,e h\r ,i record$ ! temp]atures ( ! air & ! wat]4 ,n[ ! god ( sleep paid u a visit2 ,%ukkur ,ali yawn$ at e n9? /roke1 & e yawn 0 s long t x la/$ ?ree /rokes4 ,! air is q /ill4 ,a long1 smoo? swell causes ! boat to rock slightly4 ,all is quiet1 & ,i ask myself involunt>ily if o!r be+s are li/5+ to ! spla% ( ! o>s z well z ourselves4 ,x is w>m1 ) a temp]ature ( #df4i at elev5 o'clock4 ,! next two dep?s are #adc & #afd feet4 ,my o>sm5 foll[ ! s\nd+s ) deep int]e/1 & look =w>d to ! po9t :]e ! dep? w beg9 to decrease4 ,!y ?9k x awful & uncanny to glide ov] su* great dep?s 9 ! d>k night4 ,aga9 blue lightn+ fla%es beh9d ,gurla ,m&atta1 :i* /&s =? 9 a pit* black outl9e1 aft] appe>+ j be=e 9 a :ite robe ( moon-light$ sn[fields4 ,a little lat] all ! s\!rn sky flames up l a sea ( fire2 ! fla%es quickly foll[ "o aft] ! o!r1 & %oot up to ! z5i?1 seem+ to /ay a mom5t beh9d ! m\nta9s1 & x becomes light z day1 b :5 ! gl[ dies out ! d>kness is m int5se1 & ! sublime1 poetic solemnity ( ! night is enhanc$4 ,by ! light ( ! fla%es ,i c see ! faces ( ! two m51 :o are />tl$ & uneasy1 & d n d>e to di/urb ! awful /illness by _! s++4 ,:5 ,i let d[n ! l9e at ! fif? po9t1 ! two m5 ask$ p]mission to light _! wat]-pipes4 ,! dep? 0 #aha feet4 ,a slight s\?-we/]ly breeze rippl$ ! surface4 ,! cry ( a wat]-bird broke %rilly on ! sil5ce ( ! night1 & made u feel less lonely4 ,a slight hiss ( ! surf break+ on ! s\?-ea/]n %ore 0 audible4 ,9 ! s\? ! cl\ds ga!r$ r\nd ! summit ( ,gurla ,m&atta1 ! breeze fell4 ,we glid$ sl[ly ov] ! inky black wat]1 & betwe5 ! wave cre/s ! pa? ( moonlight w\nd 9 bright s9uosities2 ! dep? increas$ sl[ly #ahc4d feet1 #ahi4c1 #aib & #bab4f4 ,! temp]ature 0 /ill #de4i1 & ,i did n want my fur coat4 ,! que5 ( night1 ) diamonds 9 h] d>k hair1 looks d[n ^u ! holy lake4 ,! midnight h\r is pass$1 & ! e>ly morn+ h\rs creep sl[ly on4 ,we s\nd #bjc1 #bjj1 #ahd1 #ahd1 #ahj1 & #aij feet1 & x seems !re=e z if we _h pass$ ! deepe/ depression4 ,lean+ on ! gunwale ,i enjoy ! voyage to ! full1 = no?+ ,i rememb] 9 my long w&]+s 9 ,asia c comp>e ) ! ov]p[]+ beauty ( ?is nocturnal sail4 ,i seem to he> ! g5tle b p[]ful beat ( ! great he>t ( ,nature1 its pulsation gr[+ weak] 9 ! arms ( night1 & ga9+ fre% vig\r 9 ! gl[ ( ! morn+ r$4 ,! sc5e1 gradually *ang+ z ! h\rs g by1 seems to belong n to e>? b to ! out]mo/ b\nd>y ( unatta9able space1 z ?\gh x lay mu* ne>] heav51 ! mi/y fairyl& ( dreams & imag9ation1 ( hope & ye>n+1 ?an to ! e>? ) its mortals1 its c>es1 its s9s1 & its vanity4 ,! moon describes its ar* 9 ! sky1 its re/less reflexion quiv]+ on ! wat]1 & brok5 by ! wake ( ! boat4 ,! que5 ( night & h] robe become pal]4 ,! d>k sky passes into light blue1 & ! morn draws nigh f ! ea/4 ,!re is a fa9t dawn ov] ! ea/]n m\nta9s1 & soon _! outl9es /& out %>ply1 z ?\gh cut out on black pap]4 ,! cl\ds1 b n[ float+ :ite ov] ! lake1 assume a fa9t rosy hue1 :i* gradually gr[s /rong]1 & is reflect$ on ! smoo? wat]1 call+ =? a g>d5 ( fre% roses4 ,we r[ among float+ rose-b$s1 !re is an od\r ( morn+ & pure wat] 9 ! air1 x gr[s light]1 ! l&scape rega9s its col\r1 & ! new day1 ,july #bh1 beg9s its triumphal progress ov] ! e>?4 ,only an inspir$ p5cil & magic col\rs c\ld depict ! sc5e t met my eyes :5 ! :ole c\ntry lay 9 %ad[1 & only ! highe/ peaks ( ,gurla ,m&atta caught ! fir/ gleam ( ! ris+ sun4 ,9 ! gr[+ light ( dawn ! m\nta91 ) its sn[fields & glaci]s1 _h %[n silv]y :ite & cold2 b n[6 ,9 a mom5t ! extreme po9ts ( ! summit began to gl[ ) purple l liquid gold4 ,& ! brilliant illum9ation crept sl[ly l a mantle d[n ! flanks ( ! m\nta91 & ! ?9 :ite morn+ cl\ds1 :i* hov]$ ov] ! l[] slopes & =m$ a girdle r\nd a well-def9$ zone1 float+ freely l ,saturn's r+1 & l x ?r[+ a %ad[ on ! fields ( et]nal sn[1 ^! too assum$ a t+e ( gold & purple1 su* z no mortal c describe4 ,! col\rs1 at fir/ z light & fleet+ z ^? ( a "y maid5 9 h] ball-dress1 became m pron\nc$1 light conc5trat$ itself on ! ea/]n m\nta9s1 & ov] _! %>p outl9es a %eaf ( bright rays fell f ! upp] limb ( ! sun ^u ! lake4 ,& n[ day has won ! victory1 & ,i try dreamily to decide :i* spectacle has made ! great] impression on me1 ! quiet moonlight1 or ! sunrise ) its w>m1 rosy gleam on ! et]nal sn[4 ,ph5om5a l ^! are fleet+ gue/s on ! e>?2 !y come & g 9 ! e>ly morn+ h\rs1 !y are only se5 once 9 a lifetime1 !y are l a greet+ f a bett] _w1 a fla% f ! isl& ( ! pho5ix4 ,?\s&s & ?\s&s ( pilgrims h w&]$ r\nd ! lake 9 ! c\rse ( c5turies1 & h se5 ! dawn & sunset1 b h nev] witness$ ! display :i* we gaz$ ^u f ! middle ( ! holy lake on ?is memorable night4 ,b soon ! magical effects ( light & col\r1 :i* h quickly foll[$ "o ano!r & held me entranc$1 fade away4 ,! c\ntry assumes its usual aspect1 & is ov]%ad[$ by d5se cl\ds4 ,kailas & ,gurla ,m&atta vani% entirely1 & only a sn[y cre/ f> away to ! nor?-we/ is /ill dy$ a deep c>m9e1 only yond] a %eaf ( sunbeams p5etrates ?r\gh an op5+ 9 ! cl\ds4 ,9 t direction ! mirror ( ! lake is t+$ blue1 b to ! s\? gre54 ,! wild-geese h wak$ up1 & !y are he>d cackl+ on _! joy\s flights1 & n[ & !n a gull or t]n screams4 ,bundles ( seawe$ float ab\t4 ,! sky is ?reat5+1 b ! air is calm1 & only g5tle swells1 smoo? z poli%$ metal1 di/urb ! wat]1 :i* looks l ! cle>e/ curao4 ,! boat moves ) we>y sl[ness to its de/9ation1 = n[1 at six o'clock 9 ! morn+1 my o>sm5 are tir$ & sleepy & q at an end ( _! /r5g?4 ,!y sleep & r[ alt]nately4 ,hem-mala-hm calls out ,%ukkur ,ali1 acc5t+ ! la/ syllable1 :5 he en]getically grasps 8 o>1 b he goes to sleep betwe51 & ! o> hov]s 9 ! air2 8 own voice wakes him up1 he dips ! o> 9 & goes to sleep aga94 ,illu/ration3 #bdh4 ,,rob]t ,,9 ,,! ,,boat4 ,! h\rs pass by1 b !re is no sign t we are ne>+ our de/9ation4 ,we _c decide :i* bank is ne>e/1 & we seem to be 9 ! c5tre ( ?is b\ndless lake4 ,9 ! mid/ ( ,gurla ,m&atta is se5 a huge deeply erod$ rav9e1 its entrance /&+ out picturesquely bel[ ! d5se mantle ( cl\ds4 ,= a mom5t1 :5 all ar\nd lay buri$ 9 %ad[1 ! int]ior 0 light$ up by ! sun1 & x pres5t$ a fanta/ic appe>ance1 resembl+ a portal into a hall ( ! gigantic dome light$ up by innum]able c&les4 ,! valleys & erosion *annels betwe5 ! diff]5t spurs ( ! massive are %>ply def9$1 & w9d d[n to ! lake among flat cones ( detritus1 ! out] m>g9s ( :i* cause ! v>iations 9 ! dep? ( ! bottom4 ,?is n[ increases aga9 to #bjj1 #bjc1 #bac1 & #bdj feet4 ,at f\rte5 po9ts1 ^! includ$1 ! bottom temp]ature is obs]v$4 ,! s\nd+ occupies a consid]able "t4 ,! l9e mu/ fir/ be paid out to ! #bcj feet1 & !n be held /ill till ! !rmomet] has assum$ ! bottom temp]ature1 & !n x mu/ be drawn up aga91 ! dep? mu/ be not$1 ! !rmomet] read1 ! temp]ature ( ! surface wat] & ! air mu/ be asc]ta9$1 & ! log-read+ tak54 ,five furlongs to ! nor? ! smoo? swell %[s a curi\s fi]y yell[ col\r1 & ,i _c make out ! orig9 ( ?is s+ul> reflexion4 ,! cl\ds ga!r 9 ! s\?-we/1 & a breeze sweeps ov] ! lake1 produc+ waves :i* ret>d /ill m ! progress ( ! boat4 ,rehim ,ali _c keep himself awake any long]1 & ,%ukkur ,ali is v comical 9 8 ov]p[]+ sleep9ess4 ,! old man looks l a wea!r-beat5 sea-dog 9 a s\?-we/]--8 ,ladaki cap ) its spread+ flaps4 ,he snoozes innoc5tly ) 8 o>s up1 & r[s aga9 & aga9 9 ! air1 /ill call+ out 8 con/ant ,%u-ba-la-la4 ,he talks 9 8 sleep4 ,rehim ,ali wakes up & asks him :at is ! matt]1 & no "o kn[s :at x is all ab\t4 ,t[>ds sev5 o'clock ! du/man pays me a visit1 b is n admitt$4 ,only = a mom5t ,i see r$ wild asses runn+ ov] ! wat]1 he> h>ps play+ sweetly 9 ! air1 & behold ! great black head ( a sea-s]p5t rise above ! waves & !n s9k d[n aga92 gre5 dolph9s & small :ales ar* _! backs among ! waves--b no1 ,i mu/ keep awake1 = a /orm may come d[n ^u u any mom5t4 ,i give my boatm5 a good d\*e ) ! holl[ ( my h&1 wa% my own h&s & face1 & ord] breakfa/--a h>d-boil$ goose egg1 a piece ( bread1 & a b[l ( milk1 & !n ,i light my pipe & am z lively aga9 z a l>k4 ,at ! tw5tie? s\nd+-place1 #bei feet deep1 ! o!r two foll[ my example4 ,at n9e o'clock1 :5 we h be5 exactly twelve h\rs on ! wat]1 we s\nd a dep? ( #bfh4d feet1 b ! s\?-we/]n %ore seems to our eyes z f> (f z ev]4 ,rehim ,ali ?9ks x is awful to h s mu* wat] "u ! keel4 ,! cl\ds on ,gurla lift a little1 & we see deep] into ! recesses ( ! great valley ! m we come opposite its m\?4 ,! l[] po9ts ( ! sn[fields come into sight bel[ ! cl\ds4 ,we/ ( !m is se5 a broad erosion *annel1 grey ) detritus & dott$ ) d>k bru%wood4 ,! wat] reflects ! =ms ( ! m\nta9s l a mirror2 x turns blue :5 ! sky is cle>1 b gre5 aga9 z soon z ! cl\ds ga!r4 ,a %oal ( fi%es plays 9 ! wat] & spla%es on ! surface4 ,& aga9 ! h\rs ( ! day pass by4 ,we glide sl[ly =w>ds1 n[ ov] calm ris+ swell1 :isp]+ g5tly z _s voices1 n[ ov] small pyramidal waves produc$ by ! meet+ ( two sy/ems ( undulations f diff]5t directions4 ,f\r small squalls f diff]5t qu>t]s ?reat5 u1 b we cat* only a flip ( _! tails1 :i* _c /ir up ! waves to a dang]\s height4 ,! la/1 f ! s\?-ea/1 is ! /ronge/1 & !n ! sail is hoi/$4 ,b /ill ! %ore seems f> di/ant2 p]haps ,ts]+ 0 "r ) 8 ,lamai/ic wisdom4 ,all details1 h[ev]1 become %>p] & cle>]4 ,gurla turns ?ree mighty gables t[>ds ! lake1 & betwe5 !m huge fans ( detritus & erosion *annels come to view4 ,! fans become flatt] t[>ds ! %ore1 & ext5d "u ! wat] d[n to ! greate/ dep?s ( ! lake2 on ! nor? %ore1 :]e a wide pla9 lies1 ! lake bottom might be expect$ to s9k m sl[ly4 ,gurla is a spl5did backgr\nd to ! holy lake--no arti/ 9 ! _w c\ld conceive any?+ m magnific5t & int]e/+4 ,!n we s\nd$ #bec1 #bdc1 #bec1 #bbc1 #aij1 #agg1 & #hb feet1 & p]ceiv$ at l5g? t ! %ore 0 ne>1 = yaks & %eep 7 visible on ! hills4 ,! sea 0 n[ fairly high1 & we _h to bale ! boat twice1 & my fur coat on ! bottom 0 wet4 ,! two tir$ & sleepy m5 lab\r$ pa9fully at ! o>s4 ,we talk$ ( h[ pleasant x w\ld be to l&1 k9dle a fire1 & take our tea & food1 b ! %ore /ill retir$ be=e u1 & ! h\rs ( ! aft]noon slipp$ pa/4 ,gurla seem$ to rise 9 ! s\? directly f ! wat]1 its level skirts & l[ slopes be+ mu* =e%ort5$4 ,! monks ( ! mona/]y "h d n dep5d = wat] on ! brooks1 b dr9k ! holy wat] ( ! lake1 :i* has 9 reality ! ta/e ( ! pure/1 mo/ :olesome1 spr+ wat]4 ,its cry/al purity & d>k gre5i%-blue col\r are z beautiful z ! flav\r1 & to pilgrims f a di/ance ! wat] ( ,manas>[> is pref]able to sp>kl+ *ampagne4 ,at la/ we 7 releas$ f imprisonm5t 9 ! boat4 ,we saw ! bottom ?r\gh ! cle> wat]1 & a few /rokes ( ! o> br\ght ! boat to a wall ( clay & decay+ we$s1 :i* ! w9t] ice _h pu%$ up on ! bank4 ,inside ! wall lies a longi% lagoon1 ) mud 9 :i* "o s9ks to ! knee4 ,! "t 0 half-pa/ "o1 s we _h be5 #af h\rs on ! lake4 ,b :5 we _h rea*$ ! %ore we f\nd x impossible to get on l&4 ,aft] ,i _h ?\ght ov] ! matt]1 :ile ! m5 look$ ab\t !m1 we r[$ nor?w>ds1 & aft] an h\r & a half discov]$ a place :]e ! boat c\ld be drawn a%ore4 ,!n we _h be5 eighte5 h\rs on ! wat]4 ,a h]dsman 0 se51 b he made (f quickly4 ,fuel 0 collect$ & a fire light$4 ,tea 0 infus$ & mutton fri$1 & :5 ! ?ree ( u _h eat5 our d9n] a tempor>y t5t 0 con/ruct$ ( ! o>s1 ma/1 & sail1 9 :i* ,i lay d[n to sleep t[>ds sev5 o'clock1 wrapp$ 9 my fur1 & ) ! life-buoys = a pill[4 ,i _h toil$ = ?irty-"o h\rs cont9u\sly1 s ,i w5t to sleep at once1 & knew no?+ ( ! /orm :i* rag$ all night1 or ( ! tw5ty-five pilgrims :o pass$ by at dawn on _! circuit ( ! holy lake4 ,,*apt] ,,xlv ,,m ,,lake ,,voyages ,i 0 awak5$ at six o'clock1 hav+ felt no cold 9 ! night1 = ! m9imum temp]ature 0 #dj4 ,! morn+ 0 f9e1 only too w>m2 ! pilgrims _h gone away2 we ate our breakfa/1 pu%$ ! boat into ! wat]1 & r[$ ab\t #ij y>ds f ! %ore t[>ds ! nor?-nor?-ea/ & nor?-nor?-we/1 describ+ a slight b5d to camp ,no4 #bad4 ,on our left h& 0 a r[ ( pebble m\nds1 gradually ris+ to ! top ( ! promontory :i* sep>ates ,manas>[> f ,rakas-tal4 ,soon ! mona/]y ,gossul-gompa 0 se5 on its pebble t]race1 ne>ly #acj feet high1 l a swall['s ne/ hang+ ov] ! lake4 ,a gr\p ( lamas /ood sil5tly wat*+ ! boat2 !y _h nev] 9 _! lives se5 su* a contrivance on ! holy lake4 ,:5 we drew ne> !y vani%$ l rats into _! holes1 & only an old man rema9$ sitt+ by a balu/rade4 ,i ask$ him ! "n ( ! mona/]y1 & he said ,gossul-gompa4 ,! next po9t %ut out ! conv5t4 ,! %ore lagoons cont9ue1 ?\gh ! m>g9 bel[ ! hills is only #cj to #fj feet broad4 ,! clay 9 :i* ! lagoons are emb$d$ is imp]meable to wat]1 b ! lake has only to rise a c\ple ( feet to f9d an outlet ov] ! s&bank beh9d into ! ,rakas-tal1 or ,langak-tso1 on ! we/4 ,& :5 ! *annel at ! nor?-we/ corn] is silt$ up1 z x is n[1 ! ,manas>[> has a subt]ranean outlet to ! neighb\r+ lake1 & its wat] consequ5tly rema9s p]fectly fre%4 ,i n[ int5d$ to camp a little to ! nor? at "s suitable spot1 & !nce r[ ! foll[+ day ov] ! lake to our headqu>t]s ne> ,s]olung-gompa4 ,we took be>+s ( a c9nab>-r$ hill ly+ on ! nor? side ( a slightly ind5t$ bay ( ! we/]n %ore4 ,a fre% s\!rly breeze 0 bl[+1 we hoi/$ ! sail1 & flew :izz+ ov] ! lake4 ,! pilgrims wat*$ our voyage ) ! greate/ a/oni%m5t1 & ! monks ( ,gossul cauti\sly foll[$ u on ! hills1 no d\bt wond]+ h[ su* sacrilege w\ld end4 ,! wild-geese swam ) _! "y ones out into ! lake1 :ile o!r swimm+ birds took !mselves (f "s #ajj y>ds inl&1 p]haps tak+ ! boat = a curi\s wat]-bird ( unusual size4 ,we w5t a%ore at ! r$ promontory1 & :ile fuel 0 be+ collect$ & ! camp arrang$1 ,i reconnoitr$ ! neighb\rhood f ! heights above ! l&+-place4 ,on ! inn] side ( ! %all[ bay ,i f\nd a holl[ ) its bottom l[] ?an ! surface ( ! lake1 & fill$ ) salt wat]1 & on ! we/ side ( ?is swamp lies ! l[e/ dip 9 ! i/hmus sep>at+ ! tw9 lakes4 ,up !re runs ! pilgrim road1 worn d[n by hundr$s ( ?\s&s ( we>y feet4 ,?ree arm$ horsem5 rode along ! way4 ,!y came up )\t dism\nt+1 & evid5tly did n "k :at to make ( me4 ,!y c\ld easily h tak5 me prison] n[ t ,i 0 sep>at$ f my m51 b !y did n ?9k ( x1 & rode on4 ,a furi\s /orm swept ov] ! lake1 its surface 0 wildly agitat$1 & cov]$ ) :ite horses4 ,! f>!r1 ea/]n "p 0 ( a deep gre5 col\r1 :ile on our we/]n %ore x 0 light]4 ,! wat] ( ! %ore lagoons 0 d>k purple f ! reflexion ( ! d5se cl\ds4 ,t[>ds f\r o'clock ! air became oppressively /ill1 !n ! w9d sprang up1 & an equally viol5t nor?-we/ /orm came d[n rag+ & ro>+4 ,! wild s\?-ea/]ly waves 7 suppress$ by x1 & ! undulations rema9$ unc]ta9 till ! new wave sy/em 0 e/abli%$4 ,!re 0 ra9 9 _m places r\nd ! lake1 b we felt only a few drops4 ,ab\t six o'clock ! sky look$ ?reat5+1 ) pit*-d>k cl\ds all ar\nd1 & n a trace c\ld be se5 ( ! ea/]n %ore2 we seem$ to /& on ! coa/ ( ! ocean4 ,soon aft] ! w9d ve]$ r\nd to ! ea/-s\?-ea/1 & !n ! surf beat all ! ev5+ aga9/ our bea*4 ,h[ =tunate t ! wea!r _h n be5 l ?is ! ev5+ be=e6 ,we sat two h\rs by ! fire & talk$4 ,its flames flick]$ & d>t$ 9 all directions1 s t !y s+$ ,%ukkur ,ali's goat's be>d4 ,! wea!r 0 /ill s ?reat5+ t we made a %elt] ( ! boat1 9 :i* ,i lay d[n e>ly to sleep4 ,be=e doz+ (f ,i li/5$ to ! ro> ( ! waves1 & ?\ght ,i he>d all k9ds ( my/]i\s s\nds 9 ! night1 b x 0 only ! cry ( wat]-birds & ! h[l+ ( ! w9d among ! hills4 ,! m5 _h ord]s to call me be=e sunrise1 = we mu/ ha/5 if we wi%$ to rea* camp ,no4 #bab be=e d>kness set 94 ,x 0 sc>cely light :5 ,i came out ( my %elt]4 ,! la/ provisions 7 consum$ by ! morn+ fire1 & !n we put (f ab\t half-pa/ f\r 9 dull1 disagreeable wea!r4 ,! /rong we/ w9d c>ri$ u rapidly away f ! %ore--inde$1 x 0 really too /rong = our sail & ma/1 b x took u on & d\bl$ our pace4 ,we _h be5 %elt]$ "u ! hills1 b :5 we 7 a few m9utes f ! bea* ! lake became uncom=tably r\gh4 ,b x 0 ( little consequ5ce1 = we sail$ ) ! waves & took 9 no wat]4 ,! m51 too1 7 m alive ?an on ! fir/ nocturnal voyage4 ,!y _h evid5tly made up _! m9ds to rea* _! de/9ation be=e night1 & !y r[$ l galley-slaves ) ! :ip hang+ ov] !m2 !y seem$ to run a race ) ! we/ w9d1 & try to get away be=e ! waves rose too madly4 ,! wat] hiss$ & foam$ r\nd ! boat1 & bubbl$ 9 ! wake z :5 butt] is br[n$ 9 a pan1 & b5ea? u ! lake boil$ up4 ,x 0 a f9e voyage z we rock$1 sp9n+ rapidly ov] ! holy waves4 ,illu/ration3 #bdi4 ,,%eep-,,%e>+ ,,at ,,tugu-,,gompa ,,on ,,manas>[>4 ,%ukkur ,ali's refra9 to ! /rokes ( ! o>s is n[ ,ya pat1 p>v>dig> ,rabel1 alehm9 or ,illallah1 :ile ,rehim ,ali responds to ! cry ( 8 comrade ) ,haap--! p j]k$ out quickly & l\dly l an explosion--& ) ! refra9 ,illallah1 or ,svalallah4 ,! ,arabic words are1 z usual 9 ,ladak1 mu* corrupt$1 b !y light5 ! "w1 & aft] ,%ukkur ,ali _h yell$ !m out ?irty-five times 9 a m9ute = n9e h\rs z l\dly z 8 vocal cords w\ld let him1 he 0 dreadfully ho>se 9 ! ev5+4 ,!n ! s\nd+s 7 #aca1 #aga1 #aga1 #agg1 #agg1 #ahe1 #ahg1 & #agg4 ,out beyond ! abrasion t]race & its r /eep esc>pm5t1 ! lake bottom is practically level4 ,hang+ cl\d fr+es %[ t ra9 is p\r+ d[n 9 torr5ts on mo/ sides1 b we escape x4 ,my excell5t boatm5 r[ twice z fa/ z on ! fir/ night1 b x is impossible to induce !m to r[ 9 "t4 ,if ,i loose ! rudd] a mom5t1 my boat falls (f to ! nor? or s\? in/ead ( mak+ ea/1 :]e camp ,no4 #bab lies4 ,if x is d>k be=e we rea* ! %ore1 our m5 are to light a pile ( wood to guide u4 ,! day draws to an end1 ! w9d sweeps away ! cl\ds1 & !y seem to ga!r r\nd ! m\nta9s1 :i* =m a gr& wrea? ar\nd ?is pe>l ( lakes4 ,! w9d dies q away1 ! sun scor*es my wea!r-beat5 face1 & x is try+ to ! eyes :5 ! sp>kl+ gold ( ! sunbeams falls /raight ^u !m4 ,_! bl9d+ light makes x difficult to di/+ui% our goal1 b ,i hold ! compass 9 my h&4 ,! waves s9k & become m languid1 & ! sea is aga9 smoo? z glass4 ,n[ we move m sl[ly1 = ! w9d no long] pu%es beh9d1 b ! m5 are unwe>i$2 _! boat-song dies away ov] ! wat]1 awak+ no e*o4 ,! hills ( ! ea/]n %ore %[ no p]ceptible diff]5ce 9 size betwe5 "o s\nd+-po9t & ! next4 ,i sit dream+1 ! rhy?mical song & ! spla%+ ( ! o>s ex]cis+ a soporific effect4 ,i seem to he> ! tramp ( a horse :i* be>s a rid] 9 silv] h>ness ov] ! granite m\nta9s ( ! ,trans-,himalaya ?r\gh an unkn[n l&1 & 9 ! dream ,i p]ceive t ! features ( ! rid] are my own4 ,!n ,i am sad1 = ! dream is false4 ,i h c]ta9ly cross$ ! ,trans-,himalaya by ?ree passes1 b ! mo/ important "p ( ! exploration has n be5 accompli%$4 ,t ,i h done my utmo/ 9 deal+ bo? ) ! ,tibetans & ! ,*9ese to ga9 access to ! c\ntry nor? ( ! ,tsangpo is no consolation to me4 ,if "o c /orm ! oppos+ bulw>k ( ,nature1 "o %\ld be able to ov]come ! ob/9acy ( man4 ,up yond] 9 ! nor?1 beh9d ,kailas1 ! ,trans-,himalaya ext5ds its granite ramp>ts1 & ,i mu/ g !re ?\gh x co/ me my life4 ,i mu/ g !re1 if ,i clo! myself 9 ! rags ( a m5dicant lama & beg my way f "o black t5t to ano!r4 ,b we are /ill on ! holy lake2 x is a day ( re/ & a summ]'s day4 ,i feel ! sk9 ( my face crack$ by ! burn+ ( ! sun4 ,! h\rs crawl s sl[ly ov] ! lake2 pati5ce1 pati5ce4 ,! cl\ds display wond]ful tone-effects2 :ite & grey1 %>ply def9$1 !y lie 9 diff]5t /ages be=e ! m\nta9s1 & beh9d !m d>k blue & purple curta9s seem to hang d[n4 ,we might be glid+ ov] ! bright floor ( a temple hall1 its walls ri*ly decorat$ ) flags & /&>ds1 :i* hang d[n f gold5 hooks on ! ceil+ ( ! sky1 & t\* ! du/ ( e>? ) _! fr+es4 ,! g5ii ( ,siva's p>adise seem to hov] r\nd u4 ,n[ ,%ukkur ,ali has tak5 to a new cry3 ,ya af]9 adtt1 to :i* he adds ,ya1 ,allah1 z he lifts 8 o>1 & ,rehim ,ali *imes 9 ) ,%upp4 ,! dep? /ill rema9s ab\t #ahj feet4 ,to ! s\?-ea/ curi\s cl\ds are reflect$ 9 ! lake1 & a mi/ seems to be creep+ ov] ! wat]4 ,all ! tones are s light1 airy1 & grey t ! l&scape1 :i* surr\nds u l a r+ :]e ! wat] ends1 seems h>dly real4 ,! tw9 summits ( ,pundi on ! nor?-ea/ are d>k & solemn1 & equally d>k & solemn is ! mirror ( ! lake4 ,silv] beads drop f ! o>s & glitt] l diamonds 9 ! sun4 ,i c\ld live & die on ?is heav5ly lake )\t ev] gr[+ we>y ( ! wond]ful spectacle always pres5t+ fre% surprises4 ,mean:ile a light s\?-ea/]ly breeze di/urbs aga9 all ! reflexions4 ,! valleys ,pa*5 & ,pa*ung op5 _! doors wid] & wid]1 & all[ u to see deep] into ! recesses ( ! m\nta94 ,we recognize ! hills above camp ,no4 #bab1 b ! t5ts are n visible4 ,b we see a :ite spot on ! nor!rn %ore :i* we take = a gompa4 ,! dep? is some:at ov] #aig feet2 ,ya bismillah hum6 is ,%ukkur ,ali's exclamation4 ,at ! sixte5? po9t ! dep? has aga9 decreas$1 ! s\?-ea/]ly breeze has ceas$1 & ! lake is aga9 a %eet ( glass4 ,n[ ! t5ts c be se5 z t9y specks1 & we hope to complete ?is l9e also )\t a /orm4 ,a long1 l[1 smoo? swell ( closely foll[+ waves1 l ! wake ( a di/ant /eam]1 comes to meet u4 ,h[ has x be5 produc$1 s9ce ! lake is q peaceful8 ,p]haps by a slight convulsion ( ! e>?'s cru/1 :i* has di/urb$ ! %ore4 ,! undulations on ?is r\nd lake are v peculi>4 ,at po9t ,no4 #bj ! dep? is only #abh feet1 & n[ we h n f> to g4 ,crack6 ,%ukkur ,ali's o> broke (f 9 ! middle ) a bang1 & ! boat drew rapidly away f ! blade end1 :i* _h to be pick$ up4 ,! good man 0 s dumbf\nd]$ & bewild]$ t he /amm]$1 ,t does n matt]1 & w5t on r[+ ) ! %aft 9 ! air4 ,n[1 :5 ! t5ts 7 s ne>1 he _h develop$ too mu* /r5g?4 ,x is well t ! old man does n bur/ himself1 ,i ?\ght4 ,we ti$ ! p>ts toge!r ) a piece ( /r+4 ,!re 0 a /ir on ! %ore :5 we l&$4 ,! wait+ m5 %[$ by ^w & ge/ure h[ glad !y 7 to h u back aga9 aft] giv+ way to all k9ds ( dismal =ebod+s ab\t our sad fate4 ,j z !y caught sight ( ! boat out on ! lake1 ,rob]t 0 ab\t to s5d out patrols up & d[n ! %ore4 ,all 0 well 9 ! camp1 except t ! ,tibetans 7 tr\bl$ because _! provisions 7 at an end4 ,i gave !m money to buy tsamba at ! mona/]y4 ,9 ! ev5+ ,i discuss$ ) ,rob]t a plan ( r[+ s\?w>ds to inve/igate ! lake bit by bit4 ,we b\ght a plank & two /aves 9 ,s]olung1 & on ! fir/ leisure day ,%ukkur ,ali cut out ) an axe two excell5t o>s1 aft] a patt]n ,i _h cut = him f ! lid ( a cig>ette box4 ,on ! next day1 ! anniv]s>y ( my arrival 9 ,leh1 a new mon? began4 ,e "t ,i write 9 my di>y ! fir/1 ,i wond] :at ! new mon? holds 9 its lap--new discov]ies or new disappo9tm5ts8 ,b ,i hope always1 & believe t all w come "r at la/4 ,rabsang & ,tundup ,sonam r[$1 & ,rob]t /e]$ along ! ?ree-feet l9e ab\t #ee y>ds f ! l&1 :ile ,i sat 9 ! b[1 compass 9 h&1 & drew a map ( ! %ore-l9e1 ! hills & valleys1 & all ! details t are *>act]i/ic ( a lake4 ,*>les ,a4 ,%]r+ /ates 9 8 book on we/]n ,tibet t ,mr4 ,drummond1 ,commission] ( ,b>eilly1 sail$ 9 #ahee 9 a boat on ,manas>[>1 b no result has come to my k2 on ! contr>y1 ,i f9d t ! v late/ map ( ! lake ne$s a ?or\gh correction4 ,s\nd+s _h nev] be5 tak5 be=e1 & ! object ( my boat+ exp$itions 0 to collect mat]ial = a detail$ isoba?ic map4 ,:5 we left beh9d u ! bas9 ( ! ,brahmaputra at ! pass ,tamlung1 ,i _h already suspect$ t ,manas>[> 0 a memb] ( ! hydrographic sy/em ( ! ,sutlej1 & ,i wi%$ to try if ,i c\ld n make a contribution t[>ds ! solution ( ?is problem4 ,i knew t my inve/igations c\ld only be inadequate1 b !y yield$ a numb] ( facts hi!rto unkn[n4 ,among ^! are ! sy/ematic s\nd+ ( ! b$1 by means ( :i* conclusions may be drawn z to ! orig9 & =mation ( ! lake4 ,i soon conv9c$ myself t ! lake depression _h be5 excavat$ by old glaci]s f ! s\!rn m\nta9s1 z ,i at fir/ conjectur$1 & 0 n damm$ up by mora9e walls across ! broad valley4 ,b want ( space =bids me to ent] fully into a discussion ( ?is int]e/+ "q4 ,we glide 9 a flat curve to ! s\?-we/1 & h to increase our di/ance f ! %ore t we may n run agr\nd on ! s&y bottom4 ,! wat] at ?is season ( ! ye> has a fairly con/ant temp]ature ( ab\t #ej4 ,!n we approa* ! m\? ( ! ,tage-tsangpo4 ,= ab\t two-?irds ( a mile ! riv] fl[s p>allel to ! %ore ( ! lake1 be+ sep>at$ f x by an embankm5t #ac feet high1 :i* has be5 ca/ up by ! waves & ! pressure ( ! ice4 ,"h we encamp$ among drifts& & bu%es1 & measur$ ! ,tage-tsangpo4 ,its bread? 0 #ef4h feet1 its maximum dep? #c4d feet1 & its dis*>ge #cig4f cubic feet a second1 or #ajf cubic feet m ?an :]e we la/ gaug$ x above ! ,na-m>d5 afflu5t4 ,i h already relat$ h[ we fir/ came 9 contact ) ?is riv] at ! pass ,tam-lung-la2 its s\rce /ream1 ! ,gang-lung-*u or wat] ( ! ice valley1 comes f ! ,gang-lung m\nta9 9 ! s\?1 & s !re is a glaci] or ice valley 9 ?is m\nta9 :i* is ! orig9 ( ! ,tage-tsangpo4 ,x is se5 f ! ,tam-lung-la1 & is ! glaci] :i* ,i v5ture to call ! ,sutlej's g5etic s\rce or ! real orig9al s\rce4 ,we %all return to ?is attractive problem4 ,f e camp on ! lake ,rob]t r[$ out ) two m5 at "r angles to ! bea*1 s\nd+ ! dep? e five m9utes4 ,by means ( ^! radiat+ l9es we discov]$ ! sauc]-%ap$ =m ( ! lake1 =1 z ,i h already rem>k$1 ! lake bottom is on ! :ole v ev54 ,n[1 f camp ,no4 #bae1 ,rob]t r[$ out to a dep? ( #aba feet4 ,on ,augu/ #b we cont9u$ our boat+ excursion1 :ile ! c>avan m>*$ along ! %ore4 ,all w5t excell5tly well1 we he>d n a ^w ( any (ficials 9 pursuit ( u1 & ! ,tibetans plac$ yaks & mules at our disposal ) ! greate/ will+ness4 ,a c\ple ( %[]s fell1 l\d ?und] roll$ 9 ,gurla ,m&atta1 & a viol5t s\?-we/]ly breeze =c$ u to come to a halt & wait at a place on ! %ore :]e ! brook f ! ,nima-p5di valley deb\*es1 =m+ a delta )9 a brok5 mole4 ,fi% are pl5tiful 9 ! brook1 b "h also ! ,tibetans ask$ u n to cat* !m1 & we respect$ _! wi%es--only /upid & unc\? m5 w\nd ! religi\s feel+s ( o!rs4 ,by ?is brook ! lake receives a tribute ( #di4d cubic feet p] second1 :ile ! ,ri*ung-*u ent]+ f>!r to ! we/-s\?-we/ contributes #fc4f cubic feet4 ,we pass$ ,yanggo-gompa "u sail at a r %ort di/ance1 & /e]$ /raight = ,tugu-gompa1 picturesquely situat$ on a /r& t]race4 ,"h beg9 ! long lagoons & mud embankm5t we _h se5 f ! we/]n bea*1 & we 7 c>ri$ com=tably a%ore & greet$ politely by a b& ( ,h9dus consi/+ ( pilgrims & trad]s4 ,a numb] ( ,tibetan %eph]ds f ! nor? 7 /ay+ "h1 :]e a n unimportant wool m>ket is held e summ]4 ,a gr\p ( monks /ood on ! ro(4 ,our camp 0 pit*$ close to ! foot ( ! mona/]y1 on ! %ore road1 & _h a f9e view ov] ! lake & ,kailas beh9d x4 ,at ! s\!rn wall ( ! conv5t is a y>d enclos$ by a /one wall1 :]e #ejj %eep 7 pack$ l h]r+s 9 a b>rel1 to be %orn 9 turn by ,h9dus & ,botias :o come f ,almora & ! bord] c\ntry 9 ! s\?4 ,! nomads receive eight annas 7#h;d47 = e %eep1 good int]e/ on _! live capital4 ,! wool f #ejj %eep is said to am\nt to #af yak-loads 7,illu/4 #bdi74 ,illu/ration3 #bej4 ,,! ,,god ,,( ,,! ,,lake ,,ris+ ,,f ,,tso-,,mavang4 ,sket* by ! ,au?or4 ,we paid at once a visit to ! mona/]y1 :]e ! ?irte5 monks & _! abbot1 ,tabga ,r9*51 receiv$ u ) ! greate/ k9dness & polit5ess1 %[$ u ev]y?+1 & expla9$ to u ! v>i\s temple halls4 ,!y _h he>d ( my voyages on ! lake1 & _h n[ se5 ) _! own eyes my boat sail+ be=e a fav\rable w9d1 & !y express$ _! s9c]e conviction t ,i mu/ possess occult p[]s to defy ) impunity ! god ( ! holy lake4 ,b !y und]/ood t ?is 0 ow+ to my fri5d%ip ) ! ,ta%i ,lama1 :o _h giv5 me 8 holy bless+4 ,! mona/]y ,tugu-gompa is a dep5d5cy ( ,%ibel+-gompa 9 ,purang1 & mo/ ( ! monks come f !re to sp5d ?ree ye>s on ! lake4 ,!y own h]ds 9 ,*ang-tang1 trade1 & seem to be 9 good circum/ances2 at any rate1 !y help ! poor pilgrims :o h no?+ to eat on _! w&]+s r\nd ,tso-mavang4 ,!y receive gifts f well-to-d pilgrims4 ,! temple halls are picturesque1 h&some & 9 v good ord]4 ,y ent] f an upp] balcony into an out] hall ) wall pa9t+s1 among :i* is a picture ( ,tso-mavang ) ! fi%-god1 ,mad ,gemo1 ris+ f ! waves 7,illu/4 #bej74 ,he has sev5 wat]-snakes 9 8 hair1 & ! l[] "p ( 8 body is l a gre5 dolph94 ,! lake is z deep z x is broad1 & conc5tric r+s encircle ! ris+ god4 ,! abbot said t ! fi%-god comes up to greet ! god ( ,tso-mavang1 ,hlabs5 ,dor*e ,b>va1 :o gallops 9 a cl\d ( grey fi]y tongues & smoke on a p9k horse1 & is arm$ ) spe>1 b[ & quiv]4 ,9 ! backgr\nd /&s ,kang-r9po*e1 ! holy m\nta94 ,! :ole picture is want+ 9 p]spective & proportion1 b x is curi\s & int]e/+1 & ! ,lamai/ arti/ has done 8 be/ to idealize ! holy lake by 8 draw+ & col\r+4 ,i made a copy ( ?is "w ( art1 :i* has "s relation%ip ) our old c\ntry pa9t+s4 ,f ! entrance hall a small door gives access to ! holie/ %r9e 9 all ,tugu-gompa1 namely1 ! hall ( ! lake god4 ,he is repres5t$ only z a mask1 surr\nd$ by kadakhs1 & seems to peep out f betwe5 curta9s4 ,a c\ple ( flames burn be=e him & ! usual b[ls are plac$ on a /ool table4 ,no man b ! monks !mselves may ent] ?is little alcove1 b ,i obta9$ p]mission to sit on ! ?re%old & draw a sket* ( x 7,illu/4 #bea74 ,i reg>d$ ?is unkn[n ,hlabs5 ,dor*e ,b>va almo/ ) rev]5ce1 = he rul$ ov] my belov$ lake & _h be5 s graci\s to me4 ,b ! f9e/ sight ( all 0 ! view f ! mona/]y ro(4 ,! highe/ p>ts ( ,gurla ,m&atta1 "h call$ ,mama-nani or ,mamo-nani1 7 conceal$ by ! l[] flanks1 = we 7 too ne> to x1 b ! surface ( ! lake /ret*$ out nor?w>ds to an imm5se di/ance4 ,a lama1 :o _h s]v$ at sev]al diff]5t times 9 ! conv5t1 ass]t$ t ! lake rose #bd to #bh in*es 9 ra9y summ]s1 & decl>$ t eighte5 ye>s be=e ! wat] _h rea*$ to ! foot ( ! r$ faade ( ! mona/]y4 ,?is seem$ improbable1 = ! di/ance betwe5 ! lake & ! mona/]y 0 #cbc feet1 & ! foot ( ! conv5t faade 7! "r corn] look+ f ! /r&7 lay #bj4fg feet above ! level ( ! lake4 ,i quote ^! figures to enable a future explor] to det]m9e :e!r ! lake has ris5 or fall5 s9ce ,augu/ #b1 #aijg4 ,i pass$ ! next days 9 ! mona/]y1 sket*$ ! lamas at _! v>i\s temple s]vices1 & fell 9 love ) ?is pleasant1 h&some ,tugu-gompa4 ,punso ,lama1 a "y monk1 0 my p>ticul> fri5d1 & %[$ me ev]y?+ ) ! inexhau/ible k ( a tra9$ museum att5dant4 ,?ree (ficials ( ! ,deva%ung _h e/abli%$ !mselves 9 ! entrance hall 9 ! company ( ! f\r gho/ly k+s1 & mattresses1 bundles1 tables1 swords & guns lay or /ood 9 pr(ane disord] at ! entrance to ! dwell+ ( ! high gods 7,illu/s4 #beb1 #bec1 #beg74 ,mean:ile ,rob]t r[$ out f ! s\!rn %ore1 & s\nd$ ! dep?s d[n to ! cont\r ( #bjg feet4 ,on ,augu/ #e1 we paid a visit to ,yanggo-gompa1 :i* conta9s t5 monks & a nun4 ,!y told me t !y came f ! ,hor c\ntry 9 ! nor? ( c5tral ,tibet1 & !re=e call !mselves ,horpa1 b also ,dokpa2 ! ,*angpa are ! nomads ( ,*ang-tang4 ,! abbot is f ,sekiya-gompa4 ,9 ! mona/]y's gunkang1 a d>k subt]ranean crypt1 hang masks1 kadakhs1 drums1 spe>s & guns4 ,i ask$ = :at purpose ! monks want$ ! fire>ms1 z "o ( _! fundam5tal dogmas =bids !m to ext+ui% ! light ( life1 & !y answ]$ t ) ^! guns _m wild yaks _h be5 kill$1 ^: fle% _h be5 us$ = human food1 & t !re=e ! guns _h be5 in/all$ 9 a place ( hon\r 9 ! mona/]y4 ,yamba ,ts]+1 a monk tw5ty-two ye>s old1 sat ) 8 head aga9/ a wood5 pill>1 & gaz$ 9 sil5ce at ! dim light :i* fell into ! crypt ?r\gh an impluvium2 he look$ l a dream]1 a se>*] aft] hidd5 tru? 7,illu/4 #bef74 ,beside him sat ! wr9kl$ nun4 ,bo? f\nd _! way into my sket*-book 7,illu/s4 #beh1 #bei74 ,! foot ( ! mona/]y faade lies exactly #ad feet above ! level ( ! lake1 & ! riv] ,ri*5-*u1 ent]+ ! lake beh9d ! conv5t1 dis*>ges #fb4ae cubic feet ( wat]4 ,yanggo-gompa 0 ! ?ird ( ! eight mona/]ies ( ! holy lake :i* ,i _h visit$1 & ,i wi%$ to see !m all )\t exception4 ,& ,i also wi%$ to gauge all ! /reams fall+ into ! lake4 ,x fluctuates f day to day1 accord+ z !re is ra9 or sun%9e1 b only by exact measurem5ts c\ld ,i arrive at ! volume :i* is p\r$ into ! cle> bas9 ( ,tso-mavang dur+ a day ( summ]4 ,,*apt] ,,xlvi ,a ,,/ormy ,,voyage ,,ov] ,,! ,,holy ,,lake ,on ,augu/ #f we /ay$ at ,tugu-gompa1 "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ mona/]ies ,i h se5 9 ,tibet4 ,i 0 engag$ all day long1 ) ,rob]t & ,rabsang to assi/ me1 9 measur+ ) a tape ! dim5sions ( ! ?ree /oreys1 & draw+ plans ( !m4 ,! ?ird1 h[ev]1 is little m ?an a ro( balcony4 ,i h no space to give ! results "h4 ,z we 7 on ! ro(1 eight monks 7 sitt+ 9 ! inn] c\rt c\nt+ _! receipts1 :i* 7 duly ent]$ 9 a ca%-book4 ,_! rupees & t5gas lay 9 heaps on a %ort-legg$ table4 ,i gave a h&ful ( rupees1 ?r[+ !m among ! piles1 & di/urb+ ! calculations ( ! monks4 ,h[ev]1 !y 7 v ?ankful = ?is unexpect$ contribution1 :i* seem$ to fall f heav54 ,ab\t ?irty ,h9du pilgrims set up _! %abby t5ts ne> u4 ,9 ! ev5+ !y light$ a fire on a flat metal di%1 :i* 0 pu%$ out on to ! wat]1 & %one l a beacon fire by ! bank4 ,?is float+ pyre 0 meant z a homage to ! lake4 ,on ,augu/ #g ,i 0 awak5$ e>ly :5 ! sun 0 p\r+ fre% gold ov] ! blue lake1 & a lama on ! conv5t ro( 0 bl[+ long-drawn heavy notes f 8 %ell horn ov] ! surface4 ,i ha/5$ to ! %ore :]e ! boat lay ready ) its usual equipm5t1 ,%ukkur ,ali & ,tundup ,sonam put ! s\nd+-l9e 9 ord] & /[$ our baggage4 ,! ,h9dus l9$ ! bank l ! wild-geese1 left _! clo?+ on l&1 & wad$1 ) only a clo? r\nd _! lo9s1 to ba! 9 ! holy beatify+ wat] ( ! lake4 ,x mu/ be v refre%+ to p f ! close jungles ( ,india to wa% 9 su* a cool morn+ 9 wat] at only a few degrees above freez+-po9t4 ,mo/ ( !m1 h[ev]1 g 9 no f>!r ?an up to _! knees4 ,!re !y squat d[n1 or scoop up ! wat] 9 _! jo9$ h&s1 & ?r[ x ov] !m4 ,!y make symbolical signs1 fill _! m\? ) wat] & s5d x out 9 a /ream1 hold _! h&s flat aga9/ _! faces & look at ! ris+ sun1 & p]=m all k9ds ( absurd1 complicat$ manipulations1 :i* ,i rememb] see+ at ! ghts ( ,b5>es4 ,!y are sunburnt1 ?9 & mis]able1 & !y are too ?9ly clad--,i did n see a s+le %eepsk9--& !y compla9 ( ! sev]ity ( ! climate1 cat* *ills1 & come to my t5t = m$ic9e4 ,"s /ood ab\t an h\r 9 ! wat] be=e !y return$ to ! bea* to put on _! clo?+1 & !n !y sat 9 gr\ps talk+4 ,b !y return to ! valleys ( ,india conv9c$ t !y h p]=m$ an action well-pleas+ to ! gods1 & !y take ) !m small metal-bottles fill$ ) holy wat] f ,manas>[> to give to _! relations4 ,!y believe t "o ( ! ways ( salvation runs pa/ ,manas>[>4 ,!y are always hopeful1 & t is a f9e ?+ = poor pilgrims on ! face ( ! e>?4 ,illu/ration3 #bea4 ,,temple ,,hall ,,( ,,! ,,lake-,,god ,,( ,,tso-,,mavang4 ,illu/ration3 #beb4 ,,*5resi',s ,,image ,,9 ,,tugu-,,gompa4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,!y />$ ) a/oni%m5t at our boat1 :i* 0 driv5 out f ! %ore by p[]ful /rokes1 p]haps ) envi\s eyes1 = _m ask$ me aft]w>ds to let !m g ) me1 t !y might = ! re/ ( _! lives look back to ! "t :5 !y float$ on ! sacr$ waves4 ,! lake lay smoo? & /ill1 b at ! fir/ s\nd+-/ation 7#aae feet71 ! lake god %ook himself1 a nor?-we/]ly breeze sprang up1 & ! waves spla%$ & danc$ briskly aga9/ our b[1 = our ?ird l9e ( s\nd+s 0 c>ri$ nor?1 #bg ,w41 t[>ds camp ,no4 #bad4 ,we s\nd$ #agd1 #bjg1 #bbf1 #bcf1 #bcf1 #bdf1 & #bec feet1 :ile ! waves increas$1 & ! boat rode well b ) dim9i%$ spe$4 ,gurla ,m&atta 0 almo/ cle>1 b ,kailas 0 buri$ 9 cl\ds4 ,! w9d fell & ! sun gl[$1 & ev]y?+ =etold a f9e day4 ,at ! n9? po9t ! dep? 0 less1 #bdf feet2 we _h pass$ ! l9e ( s\nd+s made 9 ! night & its great dep?s4 ,aft]w>ds ! dep?s 7 #bbc1 #aig1 #ahg1 #aid1 & #bjj feet4 ,! nor?-we/]ly breeze began to bl[ aga91 & at mid-day cl\ds ga!r$ 9 ! nor?4 ,a heavy blui%-grey lay] ( cl\ds sank d[n sl[ly on ! m\nta9 flanks1 & f its "u side ra9 fr+es hung d[n1 greyi%-purple on a compact d>k backgr\nd4 ,all ! m\nta9s & ! :ole /r& disappe>$1 & ! masses ( cl\d seem$ z ?\gh !y w\ld fall on ! lake4 ,we pass$ ! fifte5? /ation1 :i* %[$ a dep? ( #bjj feet1 & kept a /eady c\rse t[>ds ! r$ promontory4 ,! r[]s put =? all _! /r5g? :5 ,i _h po9t$ out to !m t we 7 draw+ ne> to ! %elt] ( ! bank1 & t ! waves 7 becom+ small] ! f>!r we advanc$4 ,we _h left ,gossul-gompa a good di/ance to ! left2 ,i c\ld n see ! mona/]y myself1 b ! m5 saw x z a small :ite speck 9 ! di/ance4 ,j be=e "o o'clock yell[ swirls ( du/ & s& appe>$ ne> ! l&spit :i* we 7 mak+ =4 ,!y became d5s] & l>g]1 & look$ yell[ & dismal on ! d>k purple backgr\nd ( ga!r+ cl\ds4 ,x 0 n ! fir/ "t ,i _h se5 su* /orm w>n+s4 ,we are 9 = a /orm1 ,i said quietly4 ,god is ) u1 repli$ ,%ukkur ,ali q z calmly4 ,r[ on & we %all get 9 be=e ! waves are high4 ,if we turn /raight to ! %ore1 x w be ne>]1 sugge/$ ,%ukkur ,ali4 ,no1 we w n alt] ! c\rse1 we w make /raight = our goal1 & we %all soon be 9 ! %elt] ( ! hills on ! %ore2 !re are only ?ree s\nd+s to be tak51 & !y c be left = ano!r "t4 ,! w9d fell aga91 & x began to ra9 9 a few l>ge drops1 :i* on rea*+ ! surface ( ! wat] rema9$ an in/ant z sep>ate r\nd beads1 z ?\gh !y 7 cov]$ ) a film ( oil4 ,!n foll[$ an extremely heavy %[] ( hail :i* la%$ ! wat] z x /ream$ d[n1 envelop$ u 9 semi-d>kness1 caus$ ! lake to leap up 9 millions ( t9y f\nta9s1 & 9 two m9utes made ! inside ( ! boat :ite4 ,no?+ 0 visible b ourselves & ! boat1 only wat] & hail1 :i* sc\rg$ ! lake l rods & produc$ a hiss+ gurgle4 ,n[ & !n ! cl\ds 7 light$ up by quiv]+ lightn+1 & ! ?und] gr[l$ heavily & ?reat5+ly 9 ! nor?4 ,!n ! m5 turn$ r\nd1 b c\ld see no?+ 9 ! mi/2 !y 7 uneasy & we all felt t !re 0 dang] ahead4 ,! hail 0 foll[$ by pelt+ ra91 a d[np\r ( su* furi\s impetuosity t ,i c\ld n imag9e any m trem5d\s4 ,x fell 9 su* quantities & ) su* =ce t we 7 b[$ d[n by x4 ,i _h on ?ree %irts & a lea!r ve/1 b aft] a %ort "t ,i felt t ! wat] 0 /ream+ d[n my b>e sk91 :i* _h ?is advantage t all ! future d\*es t await$ u c\ld make no fur!r impression4 ,i _h my fur coat on my knees ) ! sk9 side up1 & 9 all its holl[s ! wat] collect$ 9 small pools4 ,a quantity ( wat] fell into ! boat & wa%$ ab\t ) ! /roke ( ! o>s4 ,! %ore 0 n visible1 & ,i /e]$ by ! compass4 ,r[ on1 we h n mu* f>!r to g4 ,at l5g? ! ra9 became f9]1 b at f\r m9utes aft] "o o'clock1 we he>d a deaf5+ ro> 9 ! nor?-ea/1 a s\nd su* z only a /orm ( ! greate/ viol5ce c produce4 ,hail & ra9 7 no?+ to x2 n[ t ! heavy %eets ( wat] 7 )drawn ! /orm _h a free c\rse & swept sudd5ly & furi\sly ov] ! lake4 ,:y _h we n />t$ an h\r e>li]1 in/ead ( wat*+ ! religi\s ablutions ( ! ,h9dus8 ,no1 ! god ( ,tso-mavang 0 angry & w\ld tea* u once = all n to treat s lightly ! lake :i* spla%es 8 dolph9's tail ) its gre5 wat]4 ,h[ we envi$ ! monks 9 ,gossul-gompa1 & our m5 d[n 9 ! s\? "u ! peaceful walls ( ! ,tugu mona/]y6 ,:at w\ld !y say1 :at w\ld !y d1 if we 7 dr[n$ l cats 9 ?is rag+ lake8 ,= a m9ute we /ruggl$ frantically to keep our c\rse 9 spite ( ! waves :i* swept ^u u f ! "r4 ,!y swell$ up ) a/oni%+ rapidity1 & e wave :i* da%$ aga9/ ! taut canvas ( ! boat & dissolv$ into spray1 made a crack+ s\nd z ?\gh ! little vessel 7 ab\t to bur/4 ,! next 0 /ill l>g]2 ,i w>d$ x (f ) my ,indian helmet1 & ,tundup ,sonam receiv$ a cold buffet :i* disconc]t$ him = a mom5t4 ,aft] ! ?ird1 :i* ?rew its foam+ cre/ ov] ! gunwale1 ! wat] /ood #d in*es deep 9 ! boat1 ! little nut%ell ) ! weight ( ?ree m5 lay f> too deep 9 ! wat]1 & ! wat] we _h %ipp$ gurgl$1 lapp$1 & spla%$ hi!r & ?i!r ) ! roll ( ! boat4 ,n[ ,i p]ceiv$ t ! attempt to hold our c\rse 0 hopeless4 ,we mu/ fall (f ) ! w9d & waves4 ,we _h ,gossul-gompa to ! s\?1 #ej ,w41 & ! /orm 0 f ! nor?-ea/2 we c\ld f9d refuge 9 ! mona/]y1 if we c\ld get s f>4 ,! difficulty 0 to turn at "r angles )\t capsiz+4 ,twice ,i fail$1 & we %ipp$ m wat]1 b ! ?ird "t ,i succe$$1 & n[1 if we _h any c>e = our lives we mu/ prev5t ! boat f ve]+ up into ! w9d2 ! /orm came a little f ! "r4 ,tundup ,sonam1 :o r[$ ! />bo>d o> 9 ! b[1 _h all ! "w1 :ile ,%ukkur ,ali _h only to dip 9 8 o> occasionally at my comm&1 b ?\gh outw>dly calm he 0 too excit$ & eag]1 & :5 my voice c\ld n be he>d amid ! h[l+ ( ! /orm1 ,i put my h& on 8 knuckles to make him leave ! o> alone4 ,n[ began a voyage su* z ,i _h nev] exp]i5c$ 9 all my j\rneys 9 ,tibet4 ,! /orm increas$ to a hurricane1 & "u its pressure ! waves became z high z ! bill[s ( ! ,baltic 9 /ormy wea!r2 a /eam] w\ld h roll$ 9 su* a sea1 & we 9 ! little canvas boat _h to negotiate ! unexpect$ cross rolls foll[+ "o ano!r4 ,la%$1 hunt$1 & p]secut$ by ! rag+ =ce ( ! w9d1 we swept ov] ! lake4 ,e new wave t lift$ u up seem$ bigg] ?an ! la/4 ,"s _h %>p smoo? cre/s1 z ?\gh m\ld$ out ( m\nta9 cry/al1 & reflect$ ! d>k cl\ds 9 ! nor?4 ,x seem$ z ?\gh a bottomless1 wat]y grave yawn$ 9 front ( u :i* might at any mom5t swall[ up our boat4 ,o!rs came roll+ up foam-capp$1 hiss+ & ?und]+ beh9d u1 & we %udd]$ at ! ?\ght t !y might fill ! boat 9 an in/ant & s5d x to ! bottom1 b x rose bravely ov] ! cre/s4 ,! view 0 op5 on all sides1 ! sun 0 visible 9 ! s\?1 ,gurla ,m&atta 0 cle> & %>p1 to ! s\?1 #ej ,w41 ev5 ! t]race on :i* ,gossul-gompa /&s c\ld be se51 & x 0 black & ?reat5+ only 9 ! nor?4 ,dur+ ! second :5 ! boat 0 balanc$ quiv]+ on ! cre/ ( ! wave1 we might fancy ourselves transplant$ to a l(ty pass 9 ,*ang-tang ) a _w ( m\nta9 ranges all r\nd u1 :ile ! foam ( ! waves _h an illusive resemblance to ! fields ( et]nal sn[4 ,b ?is wave also passes on & ! boat s9ks into a holl[1 we fall into a wat] grotto1 ! ne>e/ waves conceal ! view1 ! walls ( ! grotto are ( ! pure/ mala*ite beh9d u & l em]ald 9 front4 ,n[ we are lift$ up aga9--,at x1 ,tundup ,sonam1 or ! huge foam+ cre/ w ?ru/ u d[n6--he puts =? all 8 /r5g? & ! wave passes u4 ,x is irregul> & rem9ds u ( ! pyramidal summit ( ,kubi-gangri2 two su* cre/s t[] up 9 front ( u1 & _! edges are %att]$ into spray by ! w9d4 ,!y are z transp>5t z glass1 & ?r\gh "o ( !m ! image ( ,gurla ,m&atta's bright :ite sn[fields is refract$ z 9 a magnify+ glass4 ,we h a wat]y portal 9 front ( u & ! tips ( ! waves are gild$ ) ! fa9t reflexion ( ! sun 9 ! s\?4 ,illu/ration3 #bec4 ,,! ,,lhakang ,,hall ,,9 ,,tugu-,,gompa4 ,sket* by ! ,au?or4 ,we /ruggle bravely & ,i sit on ! bottom ( ! boat pu%+ ! rudd] ) all my /r5g? to keep ! boat 9 ! "r direction1 :ile ! spray1 la%$ by ! w9d1 spurts ov] u z f a fire-hose4 ,frequ5tly a brok5 cre/ slips ov] ! gunwale1 b we h n a h& free to bale out ! wat]4 ,we see ! boat fill+ sl[ly--%all we rea* ! bank be=e x s9ks8 ,! ma/ & sail lie ) two res]ve o>s ti$ fa/ across ! middle ( ! boat4 ,if we c\ld set a sail ! boat w\ld be easi] to h&le1 b x is n to be ?\ght ( n[1 :5 we c h>dly keep our balance sitt+ d[n & /iff5+ ourselves ) our feet1 ) ! heavy bl[s & ! unexpect$ positions ! boat assumes accord+ to ! =m ( ! waves1 _! slopes1 curves & curls4 ,&1 besides1 9 su* a /orm ! ma/ w\ld break l glass4 ,we _h turn$ at "r angles to our l9e ( s\nd+s = n[ we ?\ght only ( sav+ our lives1 if t 7 possible--to rea* ! l& be=e ! boat sank4 ,!n1 9 ! mo/ critical mom5t1 :5 an irregul> wave ?reat5$ ! boat1 ,i call$ on ,tundup ,sonam to put =? all 8 /r5g?1 & he did x too well1 s t ! o> broke ) a crack4 ,n[ all hung by a hair1 we c\ld n manage ! boat & x mu/ inevitably capsize & be swamp$ "u ?is foam+ cre/4 ,b ,tundup ,sonam realiz$ ! dang]1 & ) a quick grasp tore loose a res]ve o>1 :ile ,%ukkur ,ali back$ ) ! leew>d o>2 aft] ano!r d\*e we trimm$ ! boat aga94 ,! long] ! /orm la/s & ! l>g] ! expanse ( lake left beh9d u 9 ! nor?-ea/1 ! high] rise ! waves2 we are swept =w>ds1 we rock up & d[n on ! lumpy lake1 & fre% cold d\*es are con/antly p\r$ ov] u f ! cre/s z !y split into spray l plumes ( fea!rs4 ,h[ small & helpless we feel 9 ! pres5ce ( ^! r\s$ infuriat$ =ces ( ,nature1 h[ impos+ & awful1 & yet h[ gr& & spl5did is ?is spectacle6 ,! two m5 _h nev] 9 _! lives se5 any?+ to equal x4 ,i sit ) my back to ! pursu+ bill[s1 b ! m5 h !m be=e _! faces1 & ,i "k :5 l>ge waves are approa*+ by _! mutt]$ ,ya ,allah6 ,tundup is z pale z he c be ) a sun-tann$ sk92 ,%ukkur ,ali seems compos$1 b he does n s+ to-day z he dips 9 8 o>4 ,tundup aft]w>ds confid$ to me t he 0 q conv9c$ t we %\ld p]i%4 ,x is impossible to keep my eye-glasses dry & cle>1 & ,i h n = a long "t _h a dry ?read on me4 ,%ukkur ,ali turns r\nd & says t ! mona/]y is 9 sight1 b x is too f> = my eyes4 ,look at ! wave yond]1 ,i call out4 ,is x n beautiful8 ,he smiles & murmurs 8 ,ya ,allah4 ,its cre/ breaks close to u l a wat]fall1 &1 air be+ =c$ into ! wat]1 x rises aga9 9 bubbl+ foam & ! lake seems to boil & see!4 ,hi!rto !re has be5 drizzl+ ra91 b n[ ! air is cle>4 ,! lake assumes a diff]5t hue1 ! waves are d>k & bright1 close to u black z ink1 b light] t[>ds _! tips1 & ! horizon ( ! lake is (t5 se5 ?r\gh ! next wave z ?r\gh a %eet ( ice4 ,?us we are driv5 on1 & ! "t seems endless4 ,= five qu>t]s ( an h\r we h /riv5 ) ! freaks ( ! lake god1 & e m9ute has seem$ to u an h\r4 ,at la/ ! mona/]y ,gossul appe>s & gr[s l>g]1 ! details becom+ di/+ui%able1 & ,i see ! :ite faade ) its upp] bord] ( r$1 its w9d[s & ro( /ream]s1 & "s monks beh9d a balu/rade ) _! eyes fix$ on ! boat4 ,& bel[ ! cloi/] t]race !re is wild foam+ surf4 ,h[ we are to l& ,i _c imag9e2 ,i h exp]i5c$ su* adv5tures be=e1 b nev] any?+ z furi\s z to-day4 ,we envy ! monks up above ) firm gr\nd "u _! feet1 & %\ld l to be beside !m4 ,! log has be5 out all ! "t1 & n[ ,i draw x 9 ) a quick pull & call out to ! m5 to be ready to jump ov]bo>d :5 ,i give ! sign4 ,i place ! note-book & ! map ,i h sket*$ to-day1 all dripp+ ) wat]1 into ! front ( my lea!r ve/1 t at any rate ,i may n lose ! figures ,i h obta9$4 ,illu/ration3 #bed4 ,,lama ,,) ,,pray]-,,drum4 ,illu/ration3 #bee4 ,,lama ,,be=e ,,! ,,temple ,,door ,,9 ,,tugu-,,gompa4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,we h only a few m9utes m4 ,) ! help ( ,%ukkur ,ali ,i manage to get out ( my heavy soak$ boots1 & h sc>cely done s :5 ! boat is pit*$ viol5tly into ! break]s on ! %ore4 ,"h ! wat] is z br[n z oatmeal1 & ! und]t[ sucks out ! boat aga94 ,n[ ,tundup ,sonam wi%es to jump out ( ! boat b ,i advise him to try fir/ ) ! o> if he c rea* ! bottom2 he feels no gr\nd & has to wait pati5tly4 ,! boat receives a bl[ f beh9d & ?reat5s to capsize2 ! o>sm5 "w z if !y 7 possess$ to fight aga9/ ! und]t[1 & be=e ,i am aw>e ,tundup has jump$ out1 &1 up to 8 brea/ 9 wat]1 draws ! boat %orew>ds ) all 8 might4 ,n[ we two foll[ 8 example1 & ) our unit$ /r5g? succe$ at la/ 9 draw+ ! boat up ! bea* be=e ! rag+ surf c da% x to pieces4 ,"o m h>d pull & we h drawn x up ov] ! mud embankm5t into ! lagoon1 :i* ! waves _c rea*4 ,n[ we _h _h en\gh1 & we ?rew ourselves d[n on ! s&1 q tir$ out4 ,! fe>ful excitem5t & t5sion ( body & m9d dur+ an h\r & a half 0 foll[$ by /upor & we>9ess2 we _h no?+ to say to "o ano!r1 & ,i gave no ord]s = ! night4 ,we 7 %ipwreck$ m51 & _h e reason to be pleas$ & ?ankful t we _h firm gr\nd "u our feet aga91 & _h escap$ safely f ! gre5 graves :i* _h yawn$ bel[ u1 ?reat5+ to engulf u if we _h n be5 on ! al]t 9 critical mom5ts4 ,we _h only doz$ a few m9utes :5 two monks & ?ree "y novices came g5tly ov] ! s& & approa*$ u cauti\sly1 z if !y 7 n q c]ta9 :e!r we 7 alive or dead4 ,:5 we got up !y greet$ u k9dly1 & inquir$ h[ we 7 & :e!r we ne$$ help4 ,!y 7 deeply int]e/$1 & told u h[ !y _h se5 f _! balcony ! boat toss+ on ! waves1 & _h be5 conv9c$ t x mu/ f\nd] 9 ! unusually viol5t /orm t _h swept ov] ! lake4 ,!y _h be5 fright5$ to dea?1 & said t x 0 fe>ful to see ! boat s9k 9 ! tr\gh ( ! waves1 & e mom5t !y expect$ t x w\ld n appe> aga94 ,on l&+ we 7 imm$iately bel[ !m1 & ! sight 0 too t]rible4 ,7 we hurt at all1 & w\ld we come up into ! mona/]y & sp5d ! night 9 _! w>m rooms8 ,b ,i ?ank$ !m = _! k9d (f]s & pref]r$ to sleep z usual 9 ! op5 air4 ,if !y c\ld get u fuel & food we %\ld be mu* oblig$4 ,!y b[$ & disappe>$ 9 _! maze ( /aircases1 & pres5tly came back ) sacks full ( dung1 bru%wood1 & billets1 & soon a gr& fire 0 burn+ on ! t]race4 ,!y k9dl$ x !mselves1 = our mat*es & t9d] 7 q useless4 ,!n !y w5t (f to fet* "s eatables1 = ! cont5ts ( our packet ( provisions 7 turn$ into pa/e by ! wat]4 ,mean:ile we made ourselves com=table on ! n>r[ /rip ( gr\nd bel[ ! mona/]y4 ,two l>ge caves op5$ into ! t]race1 _! vaults black ) smoke1 = pilgrims & h]dsm5 sp5d ! night 9 !m4 ,!y w\ld h %elt]$ u f ! w9d1 b !y 7 s dirty t we pref]r$ to pit* our camp at ! edge ( ! bank4 ,x 0 wet ) ra91 b we scrap$ out dry s& ) our h&s4 ,! boat 0 tak5 to pieces & empti$--x 0 half full ( wat]--& !n x 0 set up by ! fire z a scre54 ,:5 ! fire _h burn$ up & 0 gl[+ hot1 we /ripp$ ourselves />k nak$1 wrung out "o g>m5t aft] ano!r1 & cr\*$ by ! fire to dry our "u-clo?+ & ourselves4 ,ea* _h to look aft] himself1 = we 7 all 9 ! same plight4 ,i spread out my ?+s z ne> z possible to ! fire & hung !m ov] ! o>s & life-buoys to expose !m to ! w9d & heat4 ,mean:ile ,i dri$ my wooll5 ve/ bit by bit1 turn$ x inside out1 held x to ! fire on ?is side & t1 out & inside1 & :5 x 0 q dry put x on aga94 ,!n came ! turn ( my unm5tionables1 !n ( my /ock+s1 & s on4 ,no?+ c\ld be done ) ! lea!r wai/coat & ! fur coat2 !y w\ld n be dry by night1 b :at did x matt]8 ,x 0 at any rate bett] "h ?an 9 ! cry/al halls ( ! lake k+4 ,x is /ill broad daylight1 b ! /orm rages1 ,gurla ,m&atta & all ! c\ntry to ! s\? has disappe>$1 = ! gale is pass+ (f 9 t direction4 ,!re is f9e close ra9 aga94 ,falcons scream 9 ! holes ( ! pebbly slopes--dang]\s neighb\rs = ! blui%-grey pigeons coo+ on ! rocks4 ,! monks came d[n aga9 ) sweet & s\r milk & tsamba1 tea we _h ourselves1 & ! simple d9n] ta/$ delici\s4 ,!n we sat a c\ple ( h\rs by ! fire :ile ! /orm cont9u$4 ,i dri$ my di>y & ent]$ ! notes :i* =m ! cont5ts ( ?is *apt]4 ,betwe5 :iles ,%ukkur ,ali ent]ta9$ me ) /ories ( 8 adv5tures dur+ 8 travels 9 ! s]vice ( ,y\nghusb& & ,wellby4 ,n[ t he _h escap$ dea? by ! sk9 ( 8 tee?1 ! pa/ return$ m vividly to 8 memory1 & :5 once he 0 />t$ on 8 rem9isc5ces he c\ld n be /opp$1 good old ,%ukkur ,ali4 ,i li/5$ ) "o e> & wrote ) ! o!r--,i _h almo/ said--n to appe> un9t]e/$2 &1 aft] all1 ! *ief ?+ to ,%ukkur ,ali 0 t he c\ld prattle4 ,at la/ ! nor!rn sky becomes cle>1 & all ! m\nta9s are :ite ) sn[2 be=e only ,kailas & its next neighb\rs 7 di/+ui%$ by :ite caps1 b n[ all is :ite4 ,we are c]ta9ly pa/ ! e>ly days ( ,augu/1 b is x possible t autumn is already beg9n+8 ,! summ] has be5 s %ort t we h h>dly _h "t to get accu/om$ to x4 ,ano!r night falls on ! e>?4 ,imp5etrable d>kness surr\nds u1 & only 9 ! z5i? a few />s sp>kle4 ,! swell /ill ro>s aga9/ ! /r&1 b ,tso-mavang is g5tly fall+ asleep4 ,above u t[]s ! mona/]y on its /eep wall l a =tress1 & ! monks h retir$ to re/4 ,! falcons are he>d no m1 & ! pigeons h s\ght _! ne/s4 ,,*apt] ,,xlvii ,,on ,,! ,,ro( ,,( ,,! ,,gossul ,,mona/]y ,9 ! middle ( ! night ,i 0 awak$ by a t]rible r[2 a dog f ! mona/]y _h crept "u my m5's half ( ! boat to see :at x c\ld f9d1 b *anc$ to fall into ! h&s ( ,%ukkur ,ali1 & got a good ?ra%+4 ,! temp]ature fell to #cg4d4 ,rabsang came rid+ up at sunrise4 ,! m5 _h fe>$ t we mu/ h p]i%$ 9 ! waves4 ,he br\ght provisions & a packet ( lett]s f ,?akur ,jai ,*&1 ! ,briti% comm]cial ag5t 9 ,g>tok1 :o 0 at ! "t 9 ,gyanima1 :]e ! fair 0 be+ held4 ,he wrote t ,colonel ,dunlop ,smi? _h direct$ him on ,june #bg to try to obta9 news ( me4 ,guff>u _h p]=m$ 8 task satisfactorily1 & all my baggage 0 safely deposit$ 9 ,g>tok1 & my volum9\s correspond5ce _h be5 =w>d$ to ,simla4 ,f ,mr4 ,%]r+1 :o _h made a j\rney to ,manas>[> "s ye>s previ\sly1 ,i receiv$ a v k9d lett]2 he _h also _h ! k9dness to s5d me 8 int]e/+ book on we/]n ,tibet1 :ile 8 wife _h add$ a :ole packet ( ,engli% & ,fr5* newspap]s1 lit]ature ! m acceptable t ! ext5sive libr>y pres5t$ to me by ,o',connor _h long be5 read ?r\gh & disp]s$ to ! f\r w9ds ( heav54 ,x 0 a s+ul> co9cid5ce t :]e ,i _h suff]$ %ipwreck ,i 0 s unexpect$ly br\ght aga9 into contact ) ! out] _w4 ,i 0 deeply mov$ by ,rabsang's in=mation t ! monks 9 ,tugu-gompa1 :5 !y saw ! /orm bur/ ov] our frail boat1 _h burnt inc5se be=e ! images ( ! lake-god & implor$ him to deliv] u f ! waves4 ,!y _h done x ( _! own accord1 & n at ! reque/ ( any "o4 ,!y said x w\ld be deplorable if we 7 lo/2 !y _h a he>t1 & 7 n s unfeel+ z might be suppos$4 ,few pro(s ( sympa?y h t\*$ me l ?is4 ,accompani$ by ,rabsang1 ,i asc5d$ 9 ! e>ly morn+ ! w9d+ pa? up to ! mona/]y4 ,at ! turns & projections /& cubical *hort5s & votive cairns1 & "h & !re a /ream] flutt]s on a ma/4 ,a samkang1 a h]mit's dwell+1 hangs ov] a cav]n produc$ by ! fall ( a huge mass f ! slope ( ! pebble t]race elev5 ye>s ago4 ,i told ! monks t !y %\ld n put too mu* confid5ce 9 ! gr\nd on :i* _! mona/]y /&s4 ,!y reckon millions ( ye>s = ! s\l's w&]+s1 b _! e>?ly dwell+s are n built = et]nity4 ,!y answ]$ calmly t ! mona/]y _h already /ood = "o hundr$ ye>s1 & t x w\ld c]ta9ly /& z long z !y 7 liv+ !re2 = 9 g5]al ! monks are *ang$ e ?ree ye>s1 & !y come "h f ! mona/]y ,%ibel+ 9 ,purang1 by :i* !y are ma9ta9$4 ,!re are only ?ree ( !m1 b ,i saw also f\r novices1 sev51 n9e1 t51 & elev5 ye>s old respectively1 runn+ ab\t z actively z mice1 & wait+ on ! monks4 ,_! "m1 a nun f ,purang1 also lives 9 ! mona/]y4 ,%e _h be5 m>ri$ be=e %e took ! veil1 & :5 h] husb& di$ %e d$icat$ h]self & all h] *ildr5 to ! ,*ur*4 ,i aft]w>ds le>n$ t "o ( ! boys 0 a girl2 !y 7 s l "o ano!r t ,i c\ld n di/+ui% betwe5 !m4 ,at fir/ !y 7 %y & timid1 b aft] ,i _h giv5 !m a few silv] co9s !y 7 soon at ease ) me4 ,!y appe>$ small & /unt$ = _! age1 b ! abbot told me t !y _h m\rn$ s mu* at ! dea? ( _! fa!r t _! gr[? 0 *eck$4 ,almo/ all ! day !y 7 br++ wat] f ! lake 9 clay jugs1 :i* !y c>ri$ 9 a basket susp5d$ by a /rap r\nd _! =ehead2 !y c>ry !re=e ) ! muscles ( ! head & neck1 :i* are consequ5tly s mu* develop$ t !y seem too l>ge = ! body4 ,b !y also receive in/ruction & take _! fir/ unc]ta9 /eps 9 ! doma9 ( wisdom2 ! elde/ is said to h already acquir$ consid]able k4 ,i w5t into ! temple & /udi$ x ?or\ghly4 ,i rema9$ !re twelve h\rs1 drew1 took measurem5ts1 made all k9ds ( inquiries1 & took notes4 ,e "p is h&some1 int]e/+1 & well-kept4 ,! lhakang is l an old arm\ry1 a museum ( f9e1 r>e articles1 :i* %[ great arti/ic skill1 & h be5 design$1 c>v$1 modell$1 & pa9t$ ) unwe>i$ pati5ce & real ta/e4 ,! hall1 support$ by eight pill>s1 has two r$ divans2 a /atue ( ,buddha 9 gild$ bronze1 & a numb] ( o!r idols2 drums hang+ 9 /&s1 lacqu]$ tables ) ! usual religi\s objects1 & a l>ge quantity ( votive b[ls 9 ! brighte/ brass & ( uncommon1 ta/eful =ms4 ,on bo? sides ( ! pill>s hang tankas 9 f\r r[s1 :i* are z long z /&>ds & triumphal bann]s1 & are s arrang$ t !y d n prev5t ! light f play+ on ! faces ( ! gods4 ,9 a corn] surely waves a ,sw$i% flag8 ,ah1 x is only a blue & yell[ tanka1 b x rem9ds me ( ! gold5 p]iod ( our fame & victories4 ,! lhakang ( ,gossul is n built on ! usual plan2 ! skylight is want+1 & in/ead !re are ?ree w9d[s 9 ! faade fac+ ! lake4 ,b ! gods d n see ! lake1 = ! w9d[s are pa/$ ov] ) pap] on a trellis-"w ( la?s4 ,:y is ! beautiful view conceal$ & ! daylight exclud$8 ,to enhance ! my/ical gloom )9 & excite ! great] wond] & rev]5ce 9 ! m9ds ( ! pilgrims :o come 9 half-bl9d$ f ! daylight1 & t !y may n see t ! gold is only gild$ brass1 & t ! m>ks ( ! bru% & ! *isel may n be too pr(anely evid5t4 ,! poor] a mona/]y1 ! d>k] are its temple halls2 ! d>kness hides _! pov]ty & helps ! monks to impose on ! fai?ful4 ,illu/ration3 #bef4 ,,yanggo-,,gompa4 ,illu/ration3 #beg4 ,,int]ior ,,( ,,! ,,temple1 ,,tugu4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,som*ung is ! "n ( a small comp>tm5t no l>g] ?an a cab94 ,on its divan are cu%ions & pieces ( clo? arrang$ 9 circles to =m two ne/s1 9 :i* two monks sit dur+ ! night s]vice4 ,on ! alt> table be=e ,sakya-muni's image /& =ty b[ls fill$ ) wat]1 & on ano!r table "s peacock's fea!rs 9 a silv] vase1 ) :i* ! gods are spr9kl$ ) holy wat] to ! cry ,om a hum4 ,9 =m] times robb]s & footpads h>b\r$ "h1 & _h _! hid+-places 9 ! caves bel[ ! mona/]y4 ,f ^! !y fell ^u ! pilgrims & kill$ _m ( !m4 ,!n ! god ( ,tso-mavang appe>$ to ,jimpa ,ngurbu1 a noble lama1 & ord]$ him to build ! mona/]y1 t x might be a sure /ronghold = ! protection ( pilgrims1 & = ! hon\r ( ! gods4 ,ev5 n[ ! c\ntry is n safe4 ,la/ ye> two sc\ndrels1 :o _h plund]$ ! nomads1 7 tak5 & execut$2 & we ourselves saw t5 ,gurkhas1 arm$ ) guns1 :o rode pa/ u 9 se>* ( a robb] b& :i* _h /ol5 _! horses & %eep4 ,! monks said t ! lake usually freezes 9 ,janu>y2 9 /ormy wea!r ! ice breaks up1 b :5 ! wea!r is calm & ! fro/ is %>p1 ! :ole lake freezes ov] 9 a s+le day1 & breaks up aga9 9 a s+le day :5 x is /ormy4 ,un=tunately ! /atem5ts made ab\t ! level ( ! wat] & ! dis*>ge are contradictory & untru/wor?y4 ,a lama1 ?irty-five ye>s ( age1 n[ /ay+ "h1 _h liv$ on ,tso-mavang z a *ild4 ,he said t he well rememb]$ ! "t :5 ! wat] fl[$ out ( ! lake to ,rakas-tal 9 su* quantities t a horseman c\ld n cross ! *annel1 :i* is call$ ,ganga1 )\t dang]4 ,b n[ ?is *annel _h ceas$ to c>ry wat] = n9e ye>s4 ,i 0 %[n :]e ! %ore l9e ran la/ autumn1 five fa?oms f>!r inl&1 s t ! lake mu/ !n h be5 #bb in*es high]4 ,i 0 also %[n a yell[ block ( /one1 to :i* ! wat] 0 said to h rea*$ twelve ye>s ago1 & ?is po9t lay #aj-a_/c feet above ! pres5t level ( ! lake4 ,su* a rate ( fall is improbable1 ?\gh ?is /atem5t accord$ fairly well ) ! in=mation ,i _h receiv$ at ,tugu-gompa4 ,! ?re%old ( ! "o cave lay n[ #bb4eg feet1 & t ( ! o!r #abj4d feet f ! %ore1 #ah4hf feet above ! wat]4 ,i 0 told t :5 ! mona/]y 0 built1 "o hundr$ ye>s ago1 ! lake _h rea*$ bo? ^! caves1 & t only a small pa? 0 left along ! /r& by :i* ! caves c\ld be approa*$4 ,h[ev]1 ! dates ( ! ,tibetans are exce$+ly unc]ta91 & to arrive at safe conclusions we mu/ resort to ! /atem5ts ( ,european travell]s4 ,i w make a few rem>ks on !m lat]4 ,:5 ,i ask$ "o ( ! monks :at became ( all ! wat] p\r$ into ,tso-mavang by all ! riv]s & brooks1 he repli$3 ,h[ev] mu* x ra9s1 & ?\gh all ! tribut>ies are full to ov]fl[+1 no *ange is noticeable 9 ! lake1 = z mu* wat] is evaporat$ z fl[s 94 ,9 our holy books x is writt5 t if all ! tribut>ies fail$1 ! lake w\ld n s9k & disappe>1 = x is et]nal & is ! abode ( high gods4 ,b n[ we see ) our own eyes t x is always fall+1 & we d n "k :at ?is means4 ,! foll[+ records may be useful to future explor]s3 ! l[] edge ( ! massive ?re%old ( ! ma9 gateway 9 ! faade ( ,gossul-gompa lay on ,augu/ #h1 #aijg1 exactly #abb4g feet above ! surface ( ! lake1 z ,i asc]ta9$ by ! help ( a reflect+ level4 ,illu/ration3 #beh4 ,a ,,dream]4 ,,lama ,,9 ,,yanggo-,,gompa ,,on ,,manas>[>4 ,drawn by ,t4 ,macf>lane f a ,sket* by ! ,au?or4 ,we asc5d$ to ! ro( ( ,gossul-gompa4 ,x is flat1 z usual1 ) a *imney1 p>apet1 & /ream]s4 ,no language on e>? conta9s words =cible en\gh to describe ! view f x ov] ! lake4 ,x 01 inde$1 mu* ! same z we _h se5 f v>i\s po9ts on ! %ore1 b ! light & %ade 0 s en*ant+ & ! col\r+ s wond]ful t ,i 0 amaz$1 & felt my he>t beat m /rongly ?an usual z ,i /epp$ out ( ! d>k temple halls on to ! op5 plat=m4 ,tundup ,sonam said 9 8 simple way t ! lake ) its encircl+ m\nta9s seem$ l ! sky ) its light cl\ds4 ,i1 too1 0 ! victim ( an illusion :i* almo/ made me cat* at ! p>apet = support4 ,i wond]$ :e!r x 0 a fit ( gidd9ess4 ,i took1 to wit1 ! bord] ( m\nta9s on ! ea/]n %ore = a belt ( light cl\ds1 & ! surface ( ! sea = "p ( ! sky4 ,! day 0 p]fectly calm & ! lake l a mirror1 9 :i* ! sky 0 reflect$2 bo? look$ exactly ! same1 & 7 ( ! same col\r1 & ! m\nta9s1 :i* 9 consequ5ce ( ! di/ance 7 all bl5d$ into a d>k %ad[1 7 l a girdle ( cl\ds4 ,! air 0 n cle>1 ev]y?+ 0 ( a dull subdu$ tone1 !re 0 no col\r to speak (1 b all 0 grey--sky1 l&1 & wat]1 ) a t+e ( blue1 a fairy sc5e ( glass1 ) decorations ( :ite gauze se5 ?r\gh a ?9 blue veil ( inc5se ris+ f ! alt> ( ! mighty god ( ! lake4 ,:at has become ( ! e>?1 if all is sky & cl\ds8 ,we are n totally bewit*$1 = we are /&+ on ! ro( ( ! mona/]y lean+ aga9/ ! p>apet4 ,a dream-picture 9 ! mo/ e!real transitory tones floats be=e u4 ,we seem to /& on a promontory jutt+ out into endless space1 :i* yawns ar\nd u & 9 front4 ,& :]e is n[ ! holy lake1 :i* ye/]day ne>ly robb$ u ( life1 & on :i* ! /orm 0 s furi\s t ,i /ill seem to feel ! gr\nd quak+ "u my feet8 ,has ! ,gossul mona/]y be5 *ang$ by "s :im ( ! gods into an air-%ip :i* is be>+ u away to ano!r planet8 ,its /ream]s hang motionless on _! poles1 & no?+ c be se5 ( ! m\nta9s1 c\ntry1 & gr\nd4 ,oh yes1 if y lean a little ov] ! p>apet1 says a monk1 smil+4 ,true6 ,!n ! illusion vani%es1 to my great *agr94 ,i %\ld h lik$ to rema9 a :ile "u its en*antm5t4 ,j bel[ u runs ! n>r[ m>g9 on ! bank1 ) its black dam ( clay & wat]-we$s1 & its elongat$ lagoons4 ,?r\gh ! cry/al-cle> wat] we see ! yell[i%-grey mud on ! lake bottom1 ! d>k fr+e ( we$s1 & ! d>k dep?s beyond4 ,x is l a huge aqu>ium cov]$ ) plate-glass4 ,two flocks ( geese are swimm+ on ! wat]1 produc+ div]g+ ripples4 ,all is s indescribably quiet2 s e!real1 transp>5t1 & transitory1 s subtile & s5sitive1 t ,i sc>cely d>e brea!4 ,nev] has a *ur* s]vice1 a w$d+ m>*1 a hymn ( victory1 or a fun]al made a m p[]ful impression on me4 ,did fate compel me to pass my life 9 a mona/]y 9 ,tibet1 ,i w\ld )\t hesitation *oose ,gossul-gompa4 ,!re ,i w\ld obs]ve ! fluctuations ( ! lake & ! annual curves ( ! temp]ature4 ,i w\ld sit up !re l a wat*man1 gaze ov] ! lake1 & wat* h[ its aspect *ang$ e h\r dur+ ! twelve mon?s ( ! ye>4 ,i w\ld li/5 to ! h[l+ ( ! autumn /orms1 & w\ld notice on calm ,novemb] days h[ ! belt ( ice along ! %ore broad5$ f day to day1 if only to melt aga9 9 ! c\rse ( a day4 ,! r+ ( ice w\ld creep on ev] ne>] to ! middle ( ! lake1 be de/roy$ aga9 & aga9 by new gales1 & !n beg9 aga9 to en*a9 ! wat]s4 ,& at l5g?1 on a day 9 ,janu>y1 :5 ! lay]s ( wat] 7 cool$ ?r\gh & ?r\gh & no w9d di/urb$ ! air1 ,i %\ld see ! god ( ,tso-mavang /ret* a r++ ro( ( glass ov] 8 gre5 palace1 & ! w9t] /orms be/rew x ) :ite p[d] & drive ! :irl+ sn[ 9 d5se cl\ds ov] ! ice1 ) its smoo?1 d>k-gre5 surface peep+ out "h & !re4 ,& on calm days ! lake w\ld lie a :ite pla91 lifeless & lonely "u its :ite %r\d1 & ,i %\ld sit by ! bi] ( my fri5d long+ = ! spr+4 ,9 va9 w\ld ! fir/ /orms ( spr+ cont5d ) ! solidity ( ! ice & its brave resi/ance1 b at la/ ! sun w\ld come to help ! w9d1 & w\ld make ! ice brittle & rott54 ,leads & fissures w\ld />t up 9 all directions1 & ! next /orm t swept ov] ! ice w\ld ov]come all resi/ance1 fl++ ab\t ! ice blocks & pil+ !m up "o on ano!r1 driv+ !m to ! %ore1 & sweep+ break]s ov] !m s t !y w\ld be cru%$1 spl9t]$1 pulv]iz$1 & melt$ 9 ! roll+ surf4 ,!n ,i %\ld rejoice at ! victory ( ! /orm1 ! release ( ,tso-mavang & its re/oration to life1 & w\ld li/5 to ! song ( ! waves & ! scream+ ( ! wild geese4 ,illu/ration3 #bei4 ,,! ,,old ,,nun ,,9 ,,yanggo-,,gompa4 ,sket* by ! ,au?or4 ,p]haps an h\r su* z ,i sp5t at ! p>apet ( ,gossul comes only once a ye>4 ,! effect is ! result ( a c]ta9 temp]ature1 a c]ta9 p]c5tage ( humidity1 calm air1 prec$$ by ra9 & a nor?-ea/]ly /orm4 ,h[ seldom are all ^! conditions fulfill$8 ,at mo/ once a ye>1 & j at ?is h\r1 ?is h\r ( all h\rs1 ,i /ood on ! ro( & saw ! blue lake at re/ aft] its play4 ,wond]ful1 attractive1 en*ant+ lake6 ,!me ( /ory & leg5d1 playgr\nd ( /orms & *anges ( col\r1 apple ( ! eye ( gods & m51 goal ( we>y1 ye>n+ pilgrims1 holie/ ( ! holie/ ( all ! lakes ( ! _w1 art ?\1 ,tso-mavang1 lake ( all lakes4 ,navel ( old ,asia1 :]e f\r ( ! mo/ fam\s riv]s ( ! _w1 ! ,brahmaputra1 ! ,indus1 ! ,sutlej1 & ! ,ganges1 rise among gigantic peaks1 surr\nd$ by a _w ( m\nta9s1 among :i* is ,kailas1 ! mo/ fam\s 9 ! _w2 = x is sacr$ 9 ! eyes ( hundr$s ( millions ( ,h9dus1 & is ! c5tre ( a wrea? ( mona/]ies :]e e morn+ bla/s ( con*es s\nd out f ! ro(s ov] ! lake4 ,axle & hub ( ! :eel1 :i* is an image ( life1 & r\nd :i* ! pilgrims w&] along ! way ( salvation t[>ds ! l& ( p]fection4 ,t is ,manas>[>1 ! pe>l ( all ! lakes ( ! _w4 ,ho>y ) age :5 ! books ( ! ,v$a 7 writt51 its blue bill[s h 9 ! c\rse ( c5turies se5 innum]able troops ( fai?ful ,h9dus & ,tibetans arrive at its banks1 !re to dr9k1 ba!1 & f9d re/ = _! s\ls4 ,!re are c]ta9ly m beautiful lakes 9 ! _w4 ,its we/]n neighb\r1 = in/ance1 ,langak-tso1 is m picturesque4 ,b !re is none :i* unites ) natural beauty su* an influ5ce on ! fai? & s\ls ( m54 ,t is :y ! ro> ( its waves is s attractive1 & a soj\rn on its %ore s fasc9at+4 ,/&+ up on ! conv5t ro(1 :ile sil5ce reigns ar\nd1 "o fancies "o he>s innum]able w&]]s approa*+1 & ! e*o ( _! /umbl+ feet on ! holy pa? ar\nd ! lake4 ,& "o ca/s a glance into ! night ( pa/ c5turies1 :i* h left no trace ( _! aspirations & va9 se>* aft] an imag9>y bless$ness4 ,b ,tso-mavang rema9s ! same z x 0 !n1 & its azure-blue eye sees new g5]ations tread+ 9 ! foot/eps ( ! old4 ,aft] su* an h\r ev]y?+ else seems commonplace4 ,n till ! blu% ( ev5+ flood$ ! lake ) a purple t+e c\ld ,i te> myself away & g d[n to my camp on ! %ore4 ,once m ,i turn$ to ,tso-mavang & call$ out a l\d prolong$ ,om a hum4 ,rabsang said no?+1 b ,i c\ld see t he 0 wond]+ :e!r ,i _h become ! late/ conv]t ( ! ,lamai/ic *ur*1 & ) ! m reason because ,i _h insi/$ on travell+ r\nd ! lake 9 ! or?odox direction--s\?w>ds by ! ea/ bank & nor?w>ds by ! we/ bank4 ,! tracks ( #abj yaks 7 disc]nible 9 ! s&1 :i* _h pass$ nor?w>ds 9 ! morn+ lad5 ) brick tea4 ,an old ,h9du1 :o 0 p]=m+ ! circuit ( ! lake 9 ! same direction z ! ,tibetans1 begg$ to be all[$ to camp beside u1 because he 0 afraid ( robb]s2 we regal$ him ) tea1 bread1 & tobacco1 & he ask$ u to accept a h&ful ( rice4 ,x is s+ul> t ! ,h9du pilgrims seem to hold ! ,lamai/ic mona/]ies 9 v5]ation2 at lea/ ,i saw !m b[ be=e ! ,lamai/ic gods 9 ,tugu-gompa1 & place a h&ful ( rice 9 ! b[l :i* a monk held out to !m4 ,aft] a temp]ature ( #dc4i 9 ! night ! morn+ air seem$ q w>m4 ,a fre% ea/]ly breeze ruffl$ ! surface ( ! lake1 & ! foam-tipp$ waves %one 9 ! sun1 b ! day 0 beautiful & ,i 0 full ( life1 & eag] to g out ^u ! lake4 ,! old ,h9du said t he _h resolv$ to po/pone 8 pilgrimage & g ) u 9 ! boat1 b ,i assur$ him t we w\ld take no unnecess>y balla/4 ,b he foll[$ u on ! bank z we r[$ ?r\gh ! surf to ,camp ,no4 #bac1 easily recognizable by its old fire-place1 & :5 we /e]$ !nce seaw>ds /raight t[>ds ,tugu-gompa1 visible z a :ite speck 9 ! s\?-ea/1 he 0 s eag] to g ) u t he ran into ! wat] & did n turn back till x rea*$ to 8 middle4 ,he 0 c]ta9ly a little silly2 he _h talk$ nons5se all ! ev5+1 ?\gh no "o _h li/5$ to him4 ,illu/ration3 #bfj4 ,! ,holy ,lake ,manas>[> f ,tugu-gompa1 ) ,kailas 9 ! backgr\nd4 ,wat]-col\r ,sket* by ! ,au?or4 ,! new l9e ( s\nd+s 0 m>k$ ,no4 #d on my map ( ! lake4 ,its greate/ dep? 0 #bdi feet4 ,at ! n9? s\nd+-/ation ! r$ metal disc ( ! curr5t-met] became entangl$ 9 ! s\nd+-l9e4 ,x 0 torn away f its screws & twi/$ l a boom]ang 9 mad gyrations d[n ?r\gh ! cry/al-cle> wat] to a dep? ( #bjg feet1 !re to sleep 9 ! mud ( ,tso-mavang till ! day ( judgm5t4 ,=tunately x c\ld easily be replac$4 ,:5 we l&$ at ! mona/]y1 all our m51 & ! monks & ! pilgrims on ! %ore1 7 !re to receive u4 ,! fir/ we caught sight ( 0 ! old crazy ,h9du4 ,8 fell[-c\ntrym5 _h tak5 x = grant$ t we mu/ h p]i%$ 9 ! /orm1 & !re=e 7 v a/oni%$ to see u come back alive4 ,b z ,i 0 n[ "h aga91 !y ?\ght t !y might take advantage ( x1 & ask$ me to pres5t !m "o & all ) new tr\s]s1 a reque/ t ,i consid]$ v importunate4 ,on ,augu/ #aj ,i sat 9 my t5t door & pa9t$ ,kailas 9 diff]5t lights 7,illu/4 #bfj74 ,its :ite summit /ood out cold & b>e aga9/ a bright blue cl\dless sky1 & ! lake 0 ( a deep1 dazzl+ ultram>9e4 ,:5 a breeze swept ov] ! surface x 0 9 ! di/ance l cle> gre5 mala*ite4 ,aft] sunset ! sky 0 orange-col\r$1 & ! lake1 ( j ! same col\r1 reflect$ ! outl9es ( ! m\nta9s 9 quiv]+ s]p5t9e l9es4 ,! ev5+ be=e1 ! :ole we/]n horizon _h gl[$ ) bright r$ flames4 ,,*apt] ,,xlviii ,,our ,,la/ ,,days ,,on ,,tso-,,mavang ,at ?is "t ,rob]t _h p]fect$ himself m ?an ,i 9 ! ,tibetan language1 & he talk$ x almo/ flu5tly4 ,!re=e1 :ile my :ole "t 0 tak5 up ) o!r "w1 he 0 able to obta9 in=mation ab\t ! c\ntry & p1 & p]=m c]ta9 tasks ,i set him4 ,on ! left1 %ort] wall ( ! ve/ibule ( ,tugu-gompa 0 an inscription = ! enlight5m5t ( pilgrims1 & ?is ,rob]t n[ translat$ into ,h9du/ani & ,engli%4 ,freely r5d]$ x runs z foll[s3 ,tso-mavang is ! holie/ place 9 ! _w4 ,9 its c5tre dwells a god 9 human =m1 :o inhabits a t5t compos$ ( turquoise & all k9ds ( preci\s /ones4 ,9 ! mid/ ( x gr[s a tree ) a ?\s& bran*es1 & e bran* conta9s a ?\s& cells 9 :i* a ?\s& lamas live4 ,! lake tree has a d\ble cr[n1 "o ris+ l a sun%ade & %ad+ ,kang-r9po*e1 ! o!r ov]%ad[+ ! :ole _w4 ,ea* ( ! #ajbb bran*es be>s an image ( a god1 & all ^! images turn _! faces t[>ds ,gossul-gompa1 & 9 =m] times all ! gods ga!r$ toge!r "h4 ,once gold5 wat] 0 fet*$ f ! lake1 & ) x ! face ( ,hlobun ,r9po*e 9 ,*iu-gompa 0 gild$1 & :at 0 left 0 us$ to gild ! temple ro(s ( ,ta%i-lunpo4 ,9 old times ! wat] ( ! lake fl[$ ov] a pass nam$ ,pak*u-la to ! ,ganga-*imbo4 ,wat] fl[s into ! lake f all sides1 cold1 w>m1 hot1 & cool4 ,wat] passes f ! lake to ! ,ganga-%ei & comes back aga94 ,vap\r rises annually f ! lake & hov]s ov] x once 9 ! ye>1 & !n s9ks d[n into ! c5tre1 & ! next ye> ! process is repeat$4 ,if any "o br+s up clay f ! middle ( ! lake1 t clay is really gold4 ,! lake is ! prop]ty ( ! lake-god4 ,! lake is ! c5tral po9t ( ! :ole _w4 ,sambu ,ta%i grew out ( ! lake tree4 ,so*im ,pema ,dabge is ( v holy1 cle>1 & pure wat]4 ,! ,gyag> ,%ilki *hort5 /&s 9 ! lake4 ,! palace ( ! lake-god is 9 ! lake4 ,all ! lamas !re recite _! pray]s ) "o voice4 ,all ! gods assemble toge!r 9 ! lake & sit !re among *hort5s ( all k9ds1 embelli%$ ) gold & preci\s /ones4 ,! _s k+ ( ! s\!rn l& resides "h 9 a gold5 h\se1 & is n angry :5 any "o comes to wa% & purify himself4 ,if we pray to ! _s k+ ( ! s\!rn l&1 we %all be v weal?y & =tunate4 ,f\r l>ge riv]s & f\r small fl[ out ( ! lake by und]gr\nd *annels4 ,! f\r l>ge ones are "o w>m1 "o cold1 "o hot1 & "o cool4 7,! ,k>nali1 ,brahmaputra1 ,indus1 & ,sutlej47 ,if any "o wa%es 9 ! lake he is cleans$ f s9 & all impurities4 ,if any "o wa%es once 9 ! lake1 ! s9s ( 8 =efa!rs are =giv51 & _! s\ls are reliev$ f purgatorial fires4 ,datp+ ,nga*a came ) #ejj pilgrims f ,kang-r9po*e to wa% 9 ! lake4 ,lo ,mato ,gyamo met him & begg$ him to come to ,tso-mavang4 ,da*ung ,nga*a & ! pilgrims came ) heaps ( fl[]s & /rew$ !m 9 ! lake4 ,da*ung ,nga*a w5t ?ree times r\nd ! lake & !n asc5d$ into heav54 ,( p>ticul> int]e/ is ! sugge/ion made "h t ! f\r l>ge riv]s /ream out ( ,tso-mavang by subt]ranean passages4 ,z reg>ds ! ,sutlej ?is belief is1 9 my op9ion1 q correct4 ,i 0 told t ! fif? ,ta%i ,lama1 ^: mausoleum we _h se5 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 once made ! pilgrimage to ,tso-mavang & w5t d[n to ! %ore at ,tugu-gompa to (f] a kadakh to ! lake-god4 ,! kadakh rema9$ susp5d$ 9 ! air1 t is1 x 0 actually hang+ on "o ( ! bran*es ( ! holy tree1 b z ! tree is only visible to ,r9po*es & g5u9e inc>nations1 ! kadakh seem$ to ord9>y mortals to hang alone 9 ! air4 ,on ,augu/ #aa we bade a long f>ewell to ! amiable monks ( ,tugu-gompa1 & gave !m lib]al pres5ts4 ,!y accompani$ u d[n to ! %ore1 :5 we put (f on our voyage we/w>ds4 ,into a l>ge lagoon ( ! %ore1 br[n & dirty ow+ to ! num]\s gulls & wild geese :i* "h wall[ 9 ! mud1 a brook f ,gurla ,m&atta runs1 & n[ dis*>ges #cg4h cubic feet ( wat] 9 a second4 ,all ! way along runs a rubbi% heap1 ! cont9uation ( ! pebble t]race on :i* ,tugu-gompa /&s4 ,! lake b$ consi/s sometimes ( s&1 sometimes ( detritus--(f%oots ( ! detritus cone ( ,gurla ,m&atta4 ,l>ge collections ( we$s =m d>k pat*es4 ,up above1 at ! m\?s ( two valleys ( ,gurla1 are se5 foam+ /reams1 & x is /range t !y d n deb\* into ! lake4 ,b ! explanation is easy4 ,tw5ty to fifty y>ds f ! bank num]\s small holes 9 ! s& ( ! lake b$ op5 & close l ! valves ( an art]y1 & ! surface ( ! lake above !m bubbles4 ,^! are spr+s4 ,! /reams disappe> 9 ! detritus cone1 & ! wat] runs bel[ ov] imp]meable lay]s ( glacial clay4 ,at ! edge ( ! cone ! wat] comes up aga9 "u ! surface ( ! lake4 ,i p]ceiv$1 !n1 t ,i mu/ gauge ! riv]s at ! po9ts :]e !y em]ge f ! m\nta9 valleys1 if ,i w\ld asc]ta9 ! exact am\nt ( ! tribute ,tso-mavang receives4 ,ne> camp #bah1 q close to ! %ore1 a spr+ came to ! surface1 & :]e x well$ up x _h a temp]ature ( #ch4a1 & !re=e br\ght d[n ! cold ( ! glaci]s to ! lake4 ,z ! melt$ wat] ( ! ,gurla glaci]s reta9s its l[ temp]ature on its subt]ranean c\rse1 x probably assi/s 9 keep+ ! wat] ( ! lake cool dur+ ! summ]4 ,:ole %oals ( fi% sport$ at ! surface ( ! wat]1 & snapp$ at plum$ gnats1 :i* 7 ga!r$ 9 ?ick cl\ds4 ,on ,augu/ #ab ,i rode ) ,rabsang & a ,tibetan up to ! foot ( ,gurla ,m&atta4 ,we cross$ ! great highway betwe5 ,tugu-gompa & ,purang4 ,a wolf took to flight2 occasionally a h>e leapt up out ( ! /eppe grass1 & locu/s flew ab\t noisily4 ,we rode into ! m\? ( ! ,namreldi valley1 a resort ( robb]s1 & its cry/al /ream1 betwe5 walls ( solid rock1 c>ri$ #aja cubic feet ( wat]1 z comp>$ to ! #cg4h cubic feet at ! place :]e x ent]s ! lake4 ,! re/ ( ! wat]1 !re=e1 p\rs into ! lake "u ! detritus4 ,a few miles f>!r we/ we halt$ at ! m\? ( ! ,selung-urdu valley1 :i* has a glaci] 9 its upp] "p4 ,at half-pa/ n9e o'clock ! b$ 0 dry1 b at half-pa/ "o a riv] ) rapids & wat]falls p\r$ d[n a volume ( #fc4i cubic feet ( exce$+ly muddy wat]1 :i* rea*$ ! lake 9 ! subt]ranean spr+s4 ,! view f ?is elevat$ spot is magnific5t4 ,we h a bird's-eye view ( ,tso-mavang1 & 9 ! we/ gleams ! bright blue ,langak-tso4 ,! survey we c "h take ( ! c\ntry is v in/ructive4 ,! d5udation cones ( ,gurla ,m&atta1 consi/+ ( s&1 rubbi%1 & b\ld]s1 ext5d nor?w>ds l inv]t$ spoons2 _! extremities dip "u ! surface ( ! lake1 & cause ! fluctuat+ dep?s s\nd$ on l9es #a & #b4 ,f camp #bah ,rob]t execut$ a l9e ( s\nd+s at "r angles to ! bank d[n to a dep? ( #aij feet4 ,e day ) its obs]vations br\ght me ne>] to ! solution ( ! problem ,i _h propos$ to myself4 ,z we rode nor?w>ds on ! #ac? along ! we/]n %ore we dug wells at "s places #aj y>ds f ! bank4 ,! gr\nd consi/$ ( alt]nate lay]s ( s& & clay3 on ! top1 s&2 !n a lay] ( decay+ vegetable rema9s2 !n a foot & a half ( s& :i* re/$ on clay4 ,a pit #b feet deep sl[ly fill$ ) wat] up to ! same level z ! surface ( ! lake4 ,! wat] p]meates ! s& & re/s on ! clay4 ,if ?is lay] ( clay /ret*es1 z seems likely1 across ! n>r[ i/hmus to ! %ore ( ,langak-tso1 x is evid5t t ! wat] ( ,tso-mavang filt]s ?r\gh ! b$s ( s& & pebbles to ! we/]n lake4 ,i 0 already conv9c$ t ev5 n[ :5 ! old canal has ceas$ to act1 an und]gr\nd connection mu/ exi/ betwe5 ! two lakes4 ,b ! fact t ! wat] ( ,tso-mavang is q sweet is no pro( t ! lake has an outlet1 see+ t x is only a few ye>s s9ce ! canal 0 silt$ up4 ,aga9 we encamp$ bel[ ! hospitable mona/]y ,gossul4 ,on ,augu/ #ae ,i rode ) ,rabsang & a ,tibetan across ! hilly i/hmus betwe5 ! two lakes 9 ord] to get a look at ! c\ntry on ?is side also4 ,we asc5d$ %>ply to ! highe/ po9t ( ! ridge1 :]e !re is a f9e view ov] ,langak-tso ) its picturesque rocky %ores & project+ po9ts & capes1 its bays & isl&s1 & its frame ( /eep m\nta9s4 ,9 =m x is v diff]5t f its neighb\r1 :i* is r\nd & has no isl&s4 ,we /ood at a height ( #af1jcc feet1 & !re=e 7 #ice feet above ! surface ( ,manas>[>4 ,!n we rode d[n a valley clo!d ) bru%wood1 :i* em]ges on to ! flat1 irregul>ly curv$ %ore belt4 ,"h are old1 v pla9ly m>k$1 %ore l9es1 ! highe/ #fg4i feet above ! level ( ! lake4 ,:5 ! ,langak-tso /ood s high x _h an outlet to ! ,sutlej1 & ! old b$ ( ?is riv] may be se5 lead+ (f f ! nor?-ea/]n corn] ( ! lake4 ,a /rong s\? w9d blew1 & roll$ ! waves to ! %ore1 :]e ,i sat a good h\r1 draw+ & mak+ obs]vations4 ,!n we rode aga9 ov] ! i/hmus1 at its l[e/ 7#ae1bhi feet7 & broade/ place4 ,a salt swamp1 begirt by hills1 lies on its ea/]n half1 q close to ! %ore ( ,tso-mavang1 ) its surface #g4g feet above t ( ! lake4 ,9 ! s& & rubbi% betwe5 ! two are abundant /reams ( wat]1 pass+ f ! lake to ! swamp4 ,! swamp lies 9 a flat holl[ ( clay1 9 :i* ! wat] evaporates1 & ! trifl+ quantities ( salt conta9$ 9 ! lake wat] accumulate4 ,at ?is place1 !n1 ! wat] ( ! ea/]n lake is prev5t$ f seep+ ?r\gh to ! we/]n4 ,! foll[+ day we sail$ ) a fav\rable w9d to ! nor?-we/]n corn] ( ,tso-mavang1 :]e ,*iu-gompa /&s on a pyramid ( rock4 ,?is spot1 camp ,no4 #bai1 0 to be our headqu>t]s = sev]al days4 ,! outl9e ( ,tso-mavang is l t ( a skull se5 f ! front1 & we _h n[ to explore ! v top4 ,a day ( re/ 0 devot$ to a prelim9>y inve/igation ( ! *annel :]e sev]al cold & hot spr+s rise up2 two ( ! latt] _h temp]atures ( #aag & #abb respectively1 :ile 9 te/+ ! ?ird a !rmomet] graduat$ up to #aej did n suffice1 & ! tube bur/4 ,a spr+ ( #aag 9 a wall$ bas9 is said to be us$ z a m$ical ba?1 b "o mu/ be a ,tibetan to /ew 9 wat] s hot4 ,a small /one cab9 beside x s]ves z a dress+-room4 ,a little f>!r d[n ! *annel is spann$ by a bridge con/ruct$ ( f\r beams re/+ on two /one pi]s2 x is 9 extraord9>ily good condition1 & is ano!r pro( t ! canal conta9$ wat] n s v long ago4 ,on ! pi]s ( ! bridge wat]m>ks are /ill conspicu\s #ah in*es above ! pres5t /agnant pools1 smell+ ( sulphur & full ( slimy we$s1 :i* are f$ by spr+s4 ,"y wild-geese 7 swimm+ 9 "o ( !m1 & _h great difficulty 9 protect+ !mselves f ! br[n puppy4 ,*iu-gompa1 ! fif? ( ! eight mona/]ies ( ! lake :i* ,i visit$1 is small1 & conta9s fifte5 lamas :o ent] x = life1 :ile ! abbot is *ang$ e ?ree ye>s4 ,x owns "s yaks1 #ejj goats1 & #ajj %eep1 :i* are employ$ 9 transport+ salt to ,purang1 :]e ! monks b>t] x = b>ley4 ,"o monk1 a y\? tw5ty ye>s ( age1 nam$ ,ts]+ ,tundup1 is "o ( ! ,tibetans :om ,i ?9k ( ) p>ticul>ly k9d & w>m feel+4 ,8 "m also liv$ 9 ! mona/]y1 & look$ aft] ! %eep & goats :5 !y 7 driv5 9 ! ev5+ into ! p5folds4 ,he 0 unusually h&some1 ref9$1 amiable & oblig+1 & %[$ me ev]y?+ ) full explanations4 ,f 8 small b>e cell he c\ld dream & gaze at ! holy lake 9 ! ea/1 & c\ld see on ! we/ ,langak-tso1 despis$ by ! gods2 b yet he 0 melan*oly1 & on t acc\nt we 7 sympa!tic4 ,he ackn[l$g$ op5ly t he 0 we>y ( ! monoton\s life 9 ,*iu-gompa2 e day 0 l ! la/1 & ! monks _h h>d "w to procure a scanty subsi/5ce1 & mu/ always be prep>$ = ! attacks ( robb]s4 ,x mu/ be pleasant] to live z we did1 & roam ab\t freely among ! m\nta9s4 ,he ask$ me if he might come ) u1 & ,i repli$ t ,i w\ld will+ly take him to ,ladak4 ,!n 8 face bright5$1 b he begg$ to be all[$ to ?9k ov] ! matt] until ,i return$ f my next trip on ! lake4 ,x ra9$ all night1 & 9 ! morn+ ev]y?+ 0 wet--ev5 ! ?+s 9 my w9d-beat5 & torn t5t1 :]e little puddles _h be5 =m$4 ,b ,ts]+ came ) ! l951 s ,i 0 n s badly (f4 ,we _h a long voyage be=e u1 to camp ,no4 #bab1 ! fir/ place we _h encamp$ at on ! holy lake4 ,! programme ( ! excursion also includ$ visits to ! ?ree o!r mona/]ies1 ! gaug+ ( ! volumes ( wat] 9 ! /reams f ! nor?1 & ! draw+ ( a map ( ! nor!rn %ore4 ,we !re=e took provisions = f\r days1 :i* ,rabsang & ,adul 7 to transport along ! bank on horses' backs4 ,we 7 to meet !m at ! entrance to ! valley ,s]olung1 at ,s]olung-gompa4 ,?is la/ voyage 0 to complete my inve/igation ( ! lake1 b precisely because x 0 ! la/ x 0 look$ =w>d to ) fe> by my m54 ,!y ?\ght t ,i _h s long defi$ ! god ( ! lake t n[ my "t 0 come1 & t he w\ld av5ge himself & keep me = ev]4 ,b ! morn+ 0 beautiful1 & :5 at half-pa/ five we r[$ out ov] ! smoo? lake1 ! temp]ature 0 #dh4f4 ,! cl\d cap ( ,gurla ext5d$ d[n to ! wat]1 & no?+ c\ld be se5 ( ! c\ntry to ! s\?4 ,! ,pundi m\nta9 0 cov]$ ) sn[ & _h a w9try appe>ance4 ,at ! fir/ s\nd+-/ation 7#ff feet7 ! t5ts 7 se5 z :ite specks hov]+ above ! lake4 ,*iu-gompa /&s pr\dly on its rocky po9t1 & is a l&m>k visible f all p>ts ( ! lake %ore except f ! we/4 ,at ! second /ation ! s\nd+ 0 m ?an #acj feet4 ,%ukkur ,ali & ,tundup ,sonam r[ l galley-slaves1 = !y hope to f9i% ?is l9e1 & !n ! "w w be at an end4 ,sometimes ! boat passes ?r\gh belts ( foam & we$4 ,at ! fif? /ation 7#afa feet7 ! t5ts c /ill be se5 ) ! glass1 b aft] t !y disappe>4 ,gossul's memorable mona/]y c also be dimly descri$ on its rock4 ,n[ we h trav]s$ a ?ird ( ! way1 ,i said4 ,?ank ,god6 repli$ ,%ukkur ,ali4 ,i hope ! wea!r w hold up to-day4 ,a l>ge fi% float$ on ! wat]1 belly up2 fi% wa%$ a%ore are us$ by ! p z m$ic9e4 ,! dep?s rema9 ! same2 ! lake b$ is v ev54 ,b at ! ?irte5? po9t we f\nd #ajh feet1 & at ! f\rte5? #ahj feet1 :i* indicat$ a ridge 9 ! lake b$ or a cone ( detritus f ! foot ( ! nor!rn m\nta9s4 ,at ab\t an h\r's sail f ! ea/]n %ore we saw ,rabsang & ,adul com+ up1 & !y wait$ = u at ! r5dezv\s4 ,!y propos$ we %\ld pass ! night 9 a /one cab9 at ! "r side ( ! m\? ( ! ,s]olung valley1 b ,i refus$1 = pilgrims & tramps are wont to h>b\r !re4 ,six monks f ! conv5t1 old fri5ds ( ours1 paid me a visit1 & f\r happy1 laugh+ wom51 black & dirty1 came ru%+ l a :irlw9d d[n ! slopes ) baskets ( fuel on _! backs4 ,puppy _h foll[$ ,rabsang1 & _h f\nd at a mona/]y on ! way an elegant little cavali] ) a r$ coll> & bells4 ,) a feel+ ( satisfaction at hav+ complet$ ?is la/ l9e ( s\nd+s1 ,i w5t to sleep on ! s&y %ore "u ! light ( ! ev]la/+ />s4 ,next day ,i rode ) ,rabsang #ag miles to ! nor?1 9 ord] to measure ! volumes ( wat] 9 ! ,pa*5 & ,pa*ung valleys4 ,we arrang$ to meet ! o!rs on ! nor!rn %ore1 :i!r !y 7 to r[ ) ! baggage4 ,7 we long away !y 7 to light a beacon fire on a hill = our guidance4 ,we foll[$ = a "t ! %ore ) its banks ( mud1 small projections1 & lagoons1 & !n we rode ?r\gh ! ,samo-tsangpo f ! ,tok*5 valley1 & pass$ on ! left h& two small lakes 9 ! mid/ ( ri* pa/urage1 :]e a numb] ( kiangs graz$1 gl>$ at u1 prick$ up _! e>s1 & ran away at a sl[ gallop2 !n we cross$ ! tasam1 or ! great trunk-road1 & rode up ! %>ply sculptur$ ,pa*5 valley1 ) a foam+ riv] c>ry+ #fi4i cubic feet ( wat]4 ,!n we rode we/w>ds1 up & d[n hills1 & enjoy$ a new view ( ! holy lake ) ,gurla ,m&atta 9 ! backgr\nd4 ,! ,pa*ung riv] c>ri$ #hc4c cubic feet ( wat]4 ,:5 our "w 0 done we rode s\?-we/w>ds4 ,wild asses 7 on ! mead[s2 !y are ne>ly tame1 = no "o puts an end to life on ! %ores ( ! holy lake4 ,?irty m>es /ood on a m\nd gu>d$ by a /allion2 ! sun 0 s9k+1 & p]haps ?is is h[ ^! animals prep>e = ! dang]s ( ! night4 ,n[ & aga9 a m>e left ! gr\p & made a circuit ab\t h] si/]s1 b ! /allion ran aft] h] imm$iately & =c$ h] to return to ! o!rs4 ,?is game 0 frequ5tly repeat$1 & x seem$ to me t ! m>es 7 mak+ sport ( ! /allion4 ,we ride ov] swampy mead[s & small s&hills2 no?+ c be se5 ( ! lake2 we %\ld l to he> its waves ro>+ "u ! s\?-we/ breeze1 b new hills always crop up 9 front ( u4 ,at la/ we cat* sight ( ! smoke ( ! camp-fire4 ,adul _h caught a kiang foal f\r mon?s old1 :i* 0 ill & kept always turn+ r\nd4 ,! "m came to look aft] x 9 ! night1 b gave x up = lo/1 & x di$ soon aft]4 ,augu/ #bj 0 sp5t 9 survey+ a map ( a "p ( ! nor!rn %ore :i* is v slightly curv$1 & 9 a s\nd+ excursion on ! lake out to a dep? ( #aed feet4 ,:ile ! surface wat] _h a temp]ature #ee4f ev]y:]e1 ) an air temp]ature ab\t con/ant1 ! temp]ature at ! bottom sank f #ef4a to #df at ! dep? ( #aed feet4 ,we gradually began to suff] want4 ,! collops :i* ,adul tri$ to pass (f on me on ! morn+ ( ! #ba/ 7 decid$ly bad1 & !re=e l&$ 9 ,puppy's /oma*4 ,z ,rabsang & ,i rode nor?w>ds to ,pundi-gompa1 ! temp]ature 0 #ef & really too w>m1 s t a %[] ( ra9 0 n unpleasant4 ,pundi lies on a rocky l$ge 9 a rav9e2 its abbot is eighty ye>s old1 & has eight monks "u him4 ,"o 0 a ,*9aman f ,pek91 :o _h liv$ =ty ye>s 9 ! conv5t & _h become a ?or\gh ,tibetan1 ?\gh he _h n =gott5 8 "m tongue4 ,f !re1 too1 !re is a spl5did view ov] ! lake4 ,z we 7 ab\t to ride d[n to camp ,no4 #bbb on ! %ore1 a mess5g] came f ,rob]t ) ! news t ! au?orities 9 ,p>ka _h refus$ to provide u ) transport animals or assi/ u 9 any way1 = !y _h nev] he>d t we 7 p]mitt$ to sp5d a :ole mon? on ! lake4 ,he also said t our ,ladakis 7 mu* fright5$ by all k9ds ( /ories ( robb]s :i* 7 curr5t 9 ! neighb\rhood1 s t e "o 0 anxi\s = my pres5ce4 ,illu/ration3 #bfa4 ,,boy ,,on ,,! ,,upp] ,,tsangpo4 ,illu/ration3 #bfb4 ,,! ,,"y ,,prior ,,( ,,langbo-,,nan4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,! camp 0 q close to ! mona/]y ,langbo-nan1 at ! m\? ( ! ,gyuma-*u4 ,aft] we _h measur$ ?is riv] & asc]ta9$ t x dis*>g$ #gc4h cubic feet ( wat]1 we _h track$ up all ! wat]s p\r+ into ,manas>[> on ! surface1 & we f\nd t ! :ole volume 0 #ajid4h cubic feet 9 a second1 or #id1eij1jjj cubic feet 9 tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 :i* w\ld make a cube measur+ ne>ly #def feet ea* way4 ,b h[ mu* wat] fl[s to ! lake by und]gr\nd passages :i* we c\ld n measure8 ,probably a volume consid]ably 9 excess ( ! surface wat]2 = ,manas>[> lies 9 a tr\gh betwe5 huge m\nta9s :i* are con/antly fe$+ ! subt]ranean spr+s4 ,at any rate ! surplus wat]1 s f> z x is n lo/ by evaporation1 filtrates ?r\gh subt]ranean passages to ! ,langak-tso1 :i* lies l[]4 ,on ! #bbnd we aga9 r[$ /raight out f ! bank into ! lake till we rea*$ a place :]e ! dep? 0 #ace feet1 & !n sail$ back ) a fav\rable w9d to ! />t+-po9t4 ,x 0 ! la/ "t t ,i sank my lead 9 ! holy wat]1 & ,i 0 q conv9c$ t ,i %\ld nev] d x aga91 = ,i _h n[ #ach s\nd+s1 ev5ly di/ribut$ ov] ! lake & af=d+ ample mat]ial = ! con/ruction ( an isoba?ic map4 ,x 0 comical to he> ,%ukkur ,ali :5 ,i rem>k$ to him t ?is 0 our la/ voyage on ,tso-mavang4 ,he held 8 h&s be=e 8 face z if he 7 ab\t to pray1 & said solemnly t 9 spite ( all dang]s we _h _h ! good =tune to br+ our "w to a successful conclusion by ! fav\r ( ,allah1 ! fav\r ( ! ,sahib1 ! fav\r ( ! papa & ! mamma ( ! ,sahib1 & ! fav\r ( all 8 relations4 ,i v5tur$ to rem>k t he _h =gott5 ! fav\r ( ! lake god1 b he dismiss$ ! sugge/ion ) a wave ( ! h&1 & said he _h no m fai? 9 ! god4 ,aft]w>ds ,i rode ) ,rabsang up to ! mona/]y ,langbo-nan1 :ile ! o!rs w5t on to ,*iu-gompa4 ,i %all omit "h a description ( ?is conv5t1 :]e ! mo/ rem>kable sight 0 ! twelve-ye>-old abbot ,ts]+1 an intellig5t1 frank1 & lively boy1 ) %>p bright eyes1 :ite tee?1 a fre%1 heal?y complexion1 & an attractive appe>ance 7,illu/4 #bfb74 ,he sat on a divan be=e a lacqu]$ table 9 8 libr>y1 call$ tsem*ung1 & %[$ a great int]e/ 9 all my plans1 glanc$ into my sket*-book1 tri$ my field-glass1 & ask$ me = a c\ple ( p5cils4 ,dur+ ! h\r ,i sp5t 9 8 cell we became good fri5ds1 & :5 at l5g? ,i bade him f>ewell we little ?\ght t we %\ld meet aga9 only a ye> lat]4 ,z we made ! r\nd ( ! mona/]y we came 9 ! gall]y ( ! c\rt ^u a poor fell[ :o lay ill & seem$ to be suff]+4 ,i ask$ him h[ he 01 & he told me t on ,augu/ #ah1 ! day :5 ,rabsang & ,adul came to meet u1 he 0 tak+ elev5 mules & two horses lad5 ) tsamba & b>ley to ,p>ka1 ! ,gova ( :i* 0 ! own] ( ! c>avan4 ,:]e ! ,pa*ung riv] ent]s ! ea/]n lagoon he 0 attack$ at elev5 o'clock 9 ! morn+ by twelve robb]s1 :o ru%$ d[n f ! direction ( ! ,pa*ung valley4 ,!y 7 all m\nt$1 & arm$ ) guns1 swords1 & spe>s1 _h two sp>e horses = provisions1 & wore masks on _! faces4 ,!y dism\nt$ 9 a mom5t1 ?rew a mantle ov] 8 head1 ti$ 8 h&s beh9d 8 back1 & cle>$ him out1 tak+ among o!r ?+s #djj rupees1 & !n !y rode (f aga9 to ! ,pa*ung valley1 :i* ,rabsang & ,i _h hurri$ly visit$ ! next day4 ,he !n summon$ help by %\t+1 & 9 a v pitiable condition f\nd refuge 9 ,langbo-nan4 ,he %[$ u "s deep /abs 9 8 legs1 8 sk9 coat1 & ! saddle1 :i* _h suff]$ sev]ely :5 he made a desp]ate attempt to def5d himself4 ,?is 0 ! incid5t :i* _h s al>m$ our ,ladakis4 ,! way f "h to ,*iu-gompa is *>m+4 ,p]p5dicul>1 sometimes ov]hang+ rocks ( gre5 & r$ s*i/ fall to ! %ore1 :i* "h has a %+ly bea* only #bj y>ds broad4 ,two gigantic b\ld]s /& l monum5ts on ! %ore1 & on ! rocky walls we see black caves & h]mits' dwell+s1 & we (t5 pass ! usual ?ree /ones on :i* tea-kettles ( pilgrims h boil$4 ,f>!r to ! we/ ! projections =m a s]ies ( recesses 9 light] tones2 at "o ( ^! cliffs a new & fasc9at+ view is display$4 ,a wat] m>k ly+ #e feet above ! pres5t level ( ! lake is v easily recogniz$4 ,on ! rocky p9nacles eagles sit motionless z /atues1 wat*+ = prey4 ,*]gip-gompa is built on a t]race 9 ! broad m\? ( a valley4 ,x is a small1 poor mona/]y1 b x has its lhakang & its ve/ibule ) a l>ge bronze bell1 9 :i* ! six holy *>act]s are ca/4 ,:5 ! bell is rung at morn+ & ev5+ ! unfa?omable tru? is borne on ! waves ( s\nd ov] ! lake1 :i*1 ) its blue surface & its backgr\nd ( ! sn[fields ( ,gurla ,m&atta1 =ms a *>m+ l&scape z se5 f ! c\rt ( ! mona/]y4 ,b its s\nd is he>d by no "o b ,*]gip's s+le monk4 ,poor man1 :at mu/ be 8 feel+s 9 w9t] ev5+s :5 /orms sweep ! drift+ sn[ ov] ! ice ( ,tso-mavang6 ,i rema9$ ) him fully two h\rs1 = he _h mu* to tell4 ,he _h travell$ f>1 _h be5 at ,selipuk & ! ,ngangl>+-tso1 & (f]$ to conduct me !nce 9 tw5ty days to ! ,dangra-yum-tso2 he _h no suspicion t ,i 0 roam+ ab\t 9 ! =bidd5 l& "u a political ban4 ,b he reviv$ my desire to visit ! great unkn[n c\ntry to ! nor? ( ! holy riv]4 ,i 0 full ( ?\ghts1 full ( plans1 & full ( an insatiable desid]ium incogniti :i* nev] left me 9 peace1 :5 at l5g? ,i dep>t$ f ! eigh? & la/ mona/]y ( ,tso-mavang z ! ev5+ spread its d>k veil ov] ! lake ,i _h conqu]$4 ,we _h /ill a long way to g to ! camp4 ,at ! la/ m\nta9 spur /&s a *hort51 f :i* our fire 0 visible4 ,soon we sat aga9 among our companions4 ,late at night two horsem5 rode pa/ our camp2 ! wat*m5 call$ out ,:o's !re8 b !y made no answ]4 ,!n ,rabsang awoke & ?\ghtlessly s5t a bullet aft] ! unkn[n m51 be+ conv9c$ t !y 7 robb]s4 ,my m5 _h rea*$ su* a pit* ( n]v\sness t !y saw robb]s ev]y:]e4 ,?is 0 our la/ night on ! %ore ( ! ,tso-r9po*e1 ! holy lake1 & ,i li/5$ sadly to ! song ( ! surf dy+ away z ! w9d fell4 ,,*apt] ,,xlix ,,adv5tures ,,on ,,langak-,,tso ,i h n int]rupt$ ! description ( my life on ! rev]$ lake ) notices ( our political tr\bles4 ,suffice x to say t we succe$$ 9 /ay+ !re a :ole mon?4 ,m\nt$ & o!r mess5g]s (t5 came to make compla9ts1 & !n my m5 simply repli$3 ,! ,sahib is out on ! lake1 cat* him if y c2 he is a fri5d ( ! lake god1 & c /ay z long z he likes among ! bran*es ( ! holy tree4 ,& :5 ,i came back aga9 !y _h gone (f4 ,9 consequ5ce ( ! boat trips !y c\ld n control my movem5ts1 b :5 we encamp$ by ,*iu-gompa !y became m en]getic4 ,dur+ my abs5ce came mess5g] aft] mess5g] ) ord]s t ,i mu/ at once betake myself to ,p>ka & cont9ue my j\rney !nce to ,ladak4 ,on ,augu/ #bc ,i s5t ,rob]t & ,rabsang to ,p>ka to make t]ms ) ! au?orities1 b !y w\ld n "u any circum/ances all[ me to visit ,langak-tso1 my next /age4 ,if ,i lik$ to /ay a mon? or a ye> at ,*iu-gompa x 0 no?+ to !m1 = ! mona/]y 0 n 9 _! di/rict1 b ! we/]n lake 0 9 _! jurisdiction4 ,!y advis$ t ,i %\ld come z soon z possible to ,p>ka = my own sake1 & w\ld s5d 9 ! morn+ fifte5 yaks to c>ry my luggage4 ,illu/ration3 #bfc4 ,,temple ,,vessels ,,9 ,,*iu-,,gompa4 ,illu/ration3 #bfd4 ,,two ,,*ildr5 ,,9 ,,%igatse4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,b ,i wi%$ to see ,langak-tso at any co/4 ,s :5 ! fifte5 yaks arriv$ next morn+1 ,i quickly made up my m9d to s5d ,ts]+1 ,rabsang1 & f\r m5 ) ! baggage to ,p>ka1 :ile ,rob]t & ! o!r six m5 w\ld g ) me to ,langak-tso4 ,our own six horses & ! la/ mule f ,poon* c\ld easily c>ry ! boat & our bit ( luggage4 ,! yaks 7 lad5 & my m5 disappe>$ beh9d ! hills4 ,my own small c>avan _h ord]s to camp on ! %ore ( ,langak-tso :]e ! old *annel ent]s4 ,i w5t ) ,rob]t & two m5 on foot & execut$ a s]ies ( exact levell+s ov] ! i/hmus sep>at+ ! two lakes4 ,at ! same "t ,i drew a map ( ! c\rse ( ! *annel4 ,! measur+ tape 0 nail$ fa/ to an o> :i* ,rob]t c>ri$2 ! !odolite ,i c>ri$ myself4 ,! di/ance betwe5 ! pole & ! in/rum5t am\nt$ to #ee y>ds1 & 0 measur$ ) tapes by our two assi/ants4 ,! pole 0 plac$ on an iron di% t x might n s9k into ! s(t gr\nd4 ,! lakes 7 visit$ 9 #ahab by ,moorcr(t1 :o f\nd no connect+ *annel4 ,9 ,octob] #ahdf ,h5ry ,/ra*ey f\nd !re an arm ( ! lake #ajj feet broad & #c feet deep4 ,l&or decl>$ t any connection 0 inconceivable1 =1 accord+ to him1 ! i/hmus 0 #cjj feet high at its l[e/ "p4 ,ryd] f\nd 9 ! late autumn ( #aijd no wat] runn+ out ( ,manas>[>1 b he he>d f ! natives t a little wat] pass$ ?r\gh ! *annel dur+ ! ra9y season4 ,%]r+ also saw no runn+ wat]1 b he ?\ght x probable t ! lake ov]fl[$ aft] ra9y summ]s4 ,z = me1 ,i foll[$ ! b$ ( ! *annel f "o lake to ! o!r & f\nd t 9 ! ye> #aijg no wat] fl[$ f ! ea/]n into ! we/]n lake1 & 9 #aijh ! condition 0 ! same1 ?\gh bo? my visits occurr$ 9 ! ra9y season4 ,!re mu/ be v heavy falls ( ra9 be=e ,manas>[> c ov]fl[1 = ! highe/ po9t ( ! *annel b$ lies m ?an #f feet above ! level ( ! ea/]n lake4 ,! circum/ance t diff]5t travell]s 9 diff]5t ye>s h giv5 diff]5t acc\nts is1 h[ev]1 v easily expla9$4 ,all dep5ds on ! precipitation3 if x is abundant1 ! surface ( ,manas>[> rises2 if x is v abundant its wat] dra9s (f to ! ,langak-tso 7,rakas-tal74 ,if ! summ] is dry1 z 9 ! ye> #aijg1 ! ,langak-tso receives no wat] ?r\gh ! *annel1 b c]ta9ly by subt]ranean passages4 ,on ! :ole1 bo? ^! lakes are fall+ l ! o!r lakes ( ,tibet1 & ! "t is approa*+ :5 ! subt]ranean outlet w be cut (f & bo? lakes w be salt4 ,z we delib]ately measur$ ! *annel & came to its highe/ po9t f :i* its b$ dips t[>ds ! we/1 ,i ?rew a f>ewell glance at ,tso-mavang1 & exp]i5c$ a feel+ ( b]eavem5t at ! ?\ght t ,i mu/ n[ leave its %ores1 & 9 all probability = ev]4 ,= ,i _h kn[n ?is gem ( lakes 9 ! light ( ! morn+ r$ & 9 ! purple ( sunset1 9 /orms1 9 h[l+ hurricanes :5 ! waves rose m\nta9 high1 9 fre% s\!rly breezes :5 ! waves sp>kl$ l em]alds1 9 full sun%9e :5 ! lake 0 smoo? z a mirror1 9 ! silv] beams ( ! moon :5 ! m\nta9s /ood out l :ite spectres aft] ! dull yell[ light ( ev5+ 0 ext+ui%$1 & 9 peaceful nights :5 ! />s tw9kl$ z cle>ly on ! smoo? surface ( ! lake z above 9 ! vault ( heav54 ,i _h pass$ a memorable mon? ( my life on ?is lake1 & _h made fri5ds ) ! waves & become intimately acqua9t$ ) its dep?s4 ,to ?is day ,i c he> ! melodi\s spla% ( ! rag+ surf1 & /ill ,tso-mavang l+]s 9 my memory l a fairy tale1 a leg5d1 a song4 ,we w5t on we/w>ds along n>r[ creeks & pools ( /agnant wat]1 b :5 ! ev5+ _h become s dusky t ,i c\ld no long] read ! figures on ! measur+ pole1 we gave up "w1 m>k$ ! la/ fix$ po9t1 & made = ! camp1 :i* we rea*$ 9 complete d>kness4 ,9 ! morn+ ! "w 0 cont9u$4 ,we _h _h a m9imum ( #bb4f 9 ! night1 & a viol5t s\?-we/ /orm r5d]$ x difficult to read ! in/rum5ts4 ,! hundr$-&-f\r? po9t 0 fix$ at l5g? at ! edge ( ! wat] ( ,langak-tso4 ,i h no space "h to analyse ! results4 ,! *annel runs we/-nor?-we/1 & ! l9e measur$ is #aj1bdc y>ds long1 or twice z long z repres5t$ on ! mo/ rec5t maps4 ,! surface ( ,langak-tso lay #dd feet bel[ t ( ,tso-mavang1 :i* agrees v well ) ! diff]5ce ( height on ,ryd]'s map1 namely #ej feet4 ,!re is no wat] beyond ! n9ety-f\r? fix$ po9t 9 ! b$1 ,! ,tibetans relat$ a leg5d conc]n+ ! orig9 ( ! *annel4 ,two l>ge fi%es 9 ,tso-mavang 7 deadly enemies & *as$ ea* o!r4 ,"o 0 beat51 & 9 ord] to escape he d>t$ "r ?r\gh ! i/hmus1 & ! w9d+s ( ! *annel b$ %[ ! c\rse ( ! fly+ fi%4 ,! morn+ ( ,augu/ #bf 0 dull1 damp1 & cold4 ,heavy cl\ds float$ ov] ! e>?1 h]alds ( ! monsoon ra9s1 & ,langak-tso look$ any?+ b invit+ = a sail4 ,b we _h ! :ole day be=e u1 & any mom5t horsem5 might come f ,p>ka1 take u by ! neck & lead u back1 :e!r we lik$ x or n1 to ! pa? ( duty4 ,langak-tso has a v irregul> outl9e4 ,its *ief bas9 9 ! s\? is begirt by rocks1 9 ! nor? !re is a small] expansion1 & betwe5 ! two runs a contract$ *annel4 ,all we c\ld v5ture to d 0 to r[ ov] ! small bas9 we/w>ds & !n to ! s\?-ea/1 to a place on ! ea/]n %ore :i!r our camp c\ld be mov$4 ,x c\ld be done 9 a few h\rs1 s we took no?+ b ! ma/ & sail4 ,tundup ,sonam & ,i%e 7 my boatm51 & we set out at half-pa/ five o'clock4 ,we 7 at fir/ 9 ! lee ( a promontory1 b :5 we _h pass$ x ! :ole lake came d[n ^u u ) roll+1 foam+ bill[s1 %[]s ( spray1 & ?reat5+ surge4 ,! waves 7 cr[d$ toge!r 9 ! n>r[s to leew>d1 & assum$ curi\s irregul> =ms4 ,among !m toss$ masses ( wat]-we$2 ! wat] 0 bright gre5 & z cle> & sweet z t ( ,tso-mavang4 ,we are a little beyond ! promontory2 w\ld x n be bett] to turn back8 ,no2 nev] turn back1 nev] give 92 /ill =w>ds6 ,we 7 wet1 b we kept our equilibrium & p>ri$ ! cunn+ assaults ( ! roll+ waves4 ,r[ h>d & we %all soon get into ! %elt] ( ! great po9t on ! we/]n %ore4 ,i ev5 manag$ to take s\nd+s1 & f\nd t ! greate/ dep? 0 #ed feet2 ! lake bottom 0 almo/ level4 ,we _h f\ght ) ! waves = f\r h\rs be=e we l&$ on ! nor? side ( ! promontory1 :]e we 7 %elt]$ f ! w9d4 ,"h we draw ! boat to l& & reconnoitre4 ,! cape runs nor?-ea/w>ds1 & is cov]$ ) drifts& :i* is 9 con/ant motion4 ,on ! %ore pla9 to ! s\?-we/ yell[ s&sp\ts move ab\t1 :irl+ l corkscrews 9 ! direction ( ! w9d1 & our promontory receives its %>e ( ?is load ( s&4 ,on ! nor? ! dune is v /eep2 f "t to "t fre% s& falls d[n ! slope & slips into ! lake1 :]e ! waves sweep x away4 ,f ! %>p ridge ( ! dune ! drifts& is bl[n l a d5se plume to ! lake1 & ! wat] is t+$ ) yell[ = q #bjj y>ds 9 ! direction ( ! w9d by myriads ( gra9s ( s&1 :i* fall to ! bottom & build up a f\ndation "u wat] on :i* ! promontory c ext5d out into ! lake4 ,! w9d has be5 /rong1 & n[ we h a /orm4 ,pati5ce6 ,we _c g back4 ,! drifts& n[ floats s ?ickly ov] ! lake t ! ea/]n & nor!rn %ores are invisible2 we might be sitt+ on a dune 9 ! he>t ( ! ,takla-makan des]t4 ,we slipp$ d[n to ! %elt]$ side ( ! dune1 b "h1 out ( ! w9d1 x 0 /ill worse4 ,we 7 envelop$ 9 cl\ds ( s& :i* p5etrat$ ev]y:]e1 into our eyes1 e>s1 & noses1 & irritat$ ! sk9 :]e x came into contact ) ! body4 ,! moan+ h[l ( ! /orm 0 he>d above & ar\nd u4 ,my o>sm5 slept or /roll$ ab\t1 b _! footpr9ts 7 at once oblit]at$ by ! w9d4 ,i play$ ) ! s& l a *ild--let x roll d[n ! lee-side1 built a small p59sula1 :i* 0 imm$iately de/roy$ by ! waves1 & a h>b\r mole1 :i* ! sea beat ov] & broke up--& wat*$ h[ new lay]s & clumps ( dead seawe$ appe>$ on ! s& slope1 & h[ ! dry s& =m$ falls & cascades z x roll$ d[n4 ,b ! /orm did n abate4 ,illu/ration3 #bfe4 ,,kailas ,,beh9d ,,ny&i-,,gompa4 ,illu/ration3 #bff4 ,,my ,,pack-,,%eep4 ,we lay wait+ !re = f\r h\rs4 ,on ! ea/]n %ore our m5 _h mov$ ! camp a little f>!r s\?4 ,we saw ! t5ts q pla9ly4 ,%\ld we v5ture to creep along ! %ore s\?w>ds s z to rea* a po9t opposite ! camp8 ,out beyond ! promontory ! d>k-gre5 lake ran uncom=tably high1 b we 7 a mat* = ! waves--! m5 _h only to put _! weight on to ! o>s4 ,s we crept along ! %ore1 :]e we got "s %elt]1 b we _h to be c>eful t we 7 n c>ri$ out into ! heavy seas4 ,aft] r[+ r\nd two po9ts we l&$ on ! lee-side ( a ?ird1 :]e ! boat 0 drawn a%ore aga94 ,heavy seas ) ?und]+1 t[]+ waves da%$ aga9/ ! s\!rn side ( ! po9t1 s t we c\ld g no f>!r1 = no pilot w\ld enc\nt] su* bill[s 9 a canvas boat4 ,i /ood on ! top ( ! promontory & enjoy$ ! f9e spectacle4 ,rob]t's t5t %one brightly 9 ! sett+ sun4 ,we saw ! m51 ! horses graz+ on ! bank1 & ! smoke ( ! camp-fire beat5 d[n by ! /orm4 ,! cross+ w\ld b>ely take an h\r1 b betwe5 u & !m yawn$ ! d>k-gre5 abyss ( tyrannical1 all-conqu]+ waves4 ,! sun sets & we /ill sit & wait1 confus$ by ! ru% ( ! spirits ( ! air & wat]4 ,?is "t !y h play$ u a pretty trick1 & we h be5 caught4 ,to ! nor? rises ,kang-r9po*e1 l(ty & bright z a royal cr[n4 ,its summit is l a *hort5 on ! grave ( a ,gr& ,lama4 ,sn[ & ice ) v]tical & slightly incl9$ fissures & l$ges =m a network l ! :ite web ( a gigantic spid] on ! black cliffs4 ,& ! day1 a long day ( wait+1 ne>$ its inevitable close4 ,%ad[s l5g!n$ out ov] ! foam+ waves1 ! sun set1 & ! ,pundi m\nta91 our old fri5d ( ,tso-mavang1 gl[$ l fire 9 ! sunset4 ,cl\ds ( a deep blood-r$ col\r1 ) edges ( orange1 & t9t$ above ) r$de/ gold1 hov]$ ov] its summit4 ,x 0 z ?\gh ! e>? _h op5$ & volcanic =ces _h bur/ =?4 ,! h\rs pass$ by1 ! gl[ di$ out1 ! outl9es ( ,pundi became indi/9ct & 7 at l5g? swall[$ up 9 ! d>kness4 ,we 7 9 ! d>k :ile ! camp-fire blaz$ on ! ea/]n %ore4 ,our hopes 7 n[ c5tr$ on ! night & ! moon4 ,! /orm _h rag$ ?rice tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 & x mu/ end "s "t2 b x 0 j z /rong4 ,& z x 0 useless to wait1 & ,i c\ld n appease my gnaw+ hung] ) a piece ( bread & a cup ( tea1 ,i wrapp$ myself 9 ! sail1 burr[$ into ! s&1 & fell into a s\nd sleep4 ,! ra9 pelt+ d[n on ! sail woke me twice1 & ab\t f\r o'clock 9 ! morn+ ! cold ?or\ghly r\s$ me4 ,a dre>y1 grey1 ra9y outlook4 ,b ,i%e propos$ t we %\ld try to get ov]1 = ! /orm _h slightly abat$ 9 consequ5ce ( ! ra94 ,we fir/ made sure t ! tackle 0 9 good ord]1 & !n /epp$ into ! boat & r[$ out along ! %elt]$ side ( ! promontory4 ,b sc>cely _h ! nose ( ! boat pass$ beyond ! po9t :5 x receiv$ a %ock t made all its jo9ts crack4 ,r[1 r[ z h>d z y c1 ,i yell$ ?r\gh ! h[l+ /orm2 we %all get ov] be=e ! boat is full4 ,x is bett] to be wet ?an suck our ?umbs = tw5ty-f\r h\rs m4 ,to ! s\?1 #eb ,e41 ! t5t canvas %one :ite 9 ! morn+ grey4 ,we /ray$ f> out ( our c\rse1 b cut ! waves cleanly1 & /e]$ t[>ds ! surf4 ,we j manag$ to get ov]4 ,we 7 receiv$ on ! o!r side by our m51 :o help$ u to draw ! boat a%ore & _h fire & breakfa/ ready = u4 ,namgyal _h return$ f ,p>ka & br\ght news t ! ,gova ?reat5$ to drive away my m5 9 ord] to =ce me to leave ,langak-tso4 ,bluff1 h[ev]1 has no effect on me4 ,a m s]i\s matt] 0 t ,puppy _h n be5 se5 = =ty-eight h\rs1 & t ,%ukkur ,ali1 :o _h gone ! morn+ be=e to ,*iu-gompa 9 se>* ( h]1 _h n be5 he>d ( s9ce4 ,puppy at l5g? f\nd h] way into camp h]self1 & !n x 0 ,%ukkur ,ali :o 0 miss+4 ,on ! #bh? ! /orm cont9u$4 ,we aft]w>ds he>d f ,tibetans t /ormy wea!r frequ5tly prevails on ,langak-tso1 & ! lake is agitat$1 :5 ,tso-mavang is smoo? & calm4 ,tundup ,sonam conclud$ t ,tso-mavang 0 a pet ( ! gods1 :ile demons & devils rul$ ov] ,langak-tso4 ,we _h he>d a tale 9 ,gossul-gompa t ! prec$+ w9t] five ,tibetans1 arm$ ) swords & guns1 _h cross$ ! ice to rea* ,p>ka by a %ort] way1 b 9 ! middle ( ! lake ! ice _h giv5 way1 & all five 7 dragg$ d[n by ! weight ( _! weapons to ! bottom4 ,i wi%$ = f9e wea!r t ,i might be able to cross ov] ! lake to ! isl&s4 ,z1 h[ev]1 we 7 oblig$ to give up all ?\ghts ( a voyage1 ,i det]m9$ to pass r\nd ! lake & at any rate draw an outl9e map ( x4 ,we comm5c$1 !n1 ) ! ea/]n %ore1 :i* makes a regul> curve t[>ds ! ea/4 ,! :ite mule f ,poon* c>ri$ ! boat4 ,"s ,ovis ,ammons 7 se5 on ! rocks1 :i* ,tundup ,sonam /alk$ unsuccessfully4 ,%ukkur ,ali turn$ up aga9 z cool z a cucumb]1 hav+ se>*$ 9 va9 = ,puppy1 :i* 0 snor+ 9 my t5t 9 mo/ excell5t condition4 ,augu/ #bi4 ,we g to sleep amid/ ! ro>+ ( ! waves & ! h[l+ ( ! /orm1 & awake aga9 to ! same upro>4 ,x is always 9 our e>s z we ride along ! %ore4 ,we might be at ! foot ( a wat]fall4 ,n[ we foll[ ! s\? %ore we/w>ds4 ,"h ! cliffs are almo/ ev]y:]e precipit\s1 & ! rocks are porphyry1 granite1 & s*i/2 ! %ore /rip is extremely n>r[ & /eep1 & is divid$ into %>ply m>k$ t]races4 ,x desc5ds "r d[n to great dep?s1 & %all[1 gradually slop+ places are n to be f\nd4 ,a human skull lay 9 a bay bobb+ up & d[n 9 ! waves1 & n f> (f 7 o!r p>ts ( a skeleton4 ,0 x "o ( ! m5 :o _h be5 dr[n$ 9 ! w9t]8 ,at ?is discov]y my m5 conceiv$ a /ill great] av]sion to ,langak-tso1 :i* ev5 took human life4 ,i p]ceiv$ t !y 7 wond]+ :at fur!r foolh>d9ess ,i might indulge 94 ,a %>p-po9t$ p59sula runn+ nor?-we/w>ds delay$ u4 ,on ! bay beyond a c>avan 0 camp+1 & we 7 glad to meet ,tibetans aga9 :5 all o!rs _h )drawn f u2 & !y 7 glad to meet a ,european :o _h be5 at ! ,luma-r+-tso1 _! home4 ,b !y c\ld n und]/& :y we pass$ r\nd all projections & w5t "r r\nd all ! bays1 in/ead ( foll[+ ! direct road runn+ a little f>!r to ! s\?4 ,"o ( !m held out 8 h&s t[>ds me ) ! f+]s spread out1 & said t ! s\? %ore ( ! lake _h z _m ind5tations4 ,:5 ,i told him t ,i wi%$ to draw a map ( ! lake1 he said t x 0 ( no consequ5ce :at ! %ore 0 l1 z only egg-ga!r]s came !re4 ,:5 we _h pass$ two project+ po9ts we encamp$ at ! extremity ( ! cape :i* lies 9 a l9e ) ! s\!rnmo/ isl&4 ,x 0 /ormy1 b "h we f\nd %elt] "u a cliff ) a /ream] pole on ! top4 ,/one walls1 rags1 & egg%ells 7 evid5ce ( ! visits ( m54 ,on ! ea/ & we/ ( ! cape 7 op5 bays ) heavy seas1 & to ! nor?1 #ai ,e41 we saw ! s\!rn po9t ( ! isl&--a d>k precipit\s rock1 ris+ l a huge roll ( bread f ! waves4 ,we _h already he>d ( ?is isl&1 ,la*e-to1 on :i* ! wild-geese lay _! eggs 9 ,may1 & are robb$ ( !m by m5 f ,p>ka :o come ov] ! ice4 ,i c\ld n !re=e omit to visit x4 ,! isl& lay q ne>4 ,we w\ld return imm$iately1 & ,adul might beg9 to roa/ ! wild-goose :i* ,tundup _h %ot on ! m>*4 ,we want$ no provisions1 b ,rob]t advis$ ,i%e to take a bag ( tsamba ) him1 le/ he %\ld h to wait too long = 8 d9n]4 ,illu/ration3 #bfg4 ,,"p ,,( ,,kailas4 ,sket* by ! ,au?or4 ,^! two m5 took ! o>s :5 we put (f4 ,! %elt] ( ! cape 0 deceptive4 ,two m9utes f ! bank ,i tri$ to take a s\nd+1 b ! l9e made a great curve be=e x rea*$ ! bottom1 = ! /orm drove ! boat nor?w>ds4 ,!n we fell ^u ano!r device3 ! boatm5 _h only to hold _! o>s 9 ! air & let ! w9d c>ry ! boat along4 ,b a little f>!r out we c\ld n sail s easily1 = ! wave sy/em ( ! ea/]n op5 "p ( ! lake came into collision ) t f ! we/4 ,"h ! waves rose into hillocks & pyramids1 & _h to be negotiat$ ) ! o>s4 ,we rapidly drew ne> to ! isl&1 & its rocks became high] & look$ ?reat5+ly d>k & dang]\s4 ,:5 we 7 close to ! s\!rn po9t ,i p]ceiv$ t x 0 impossible to l& !re4 ,! bank ( rubbi% & blocks 0 v /eep1 & we & ! boat w\ld h be5 da%$ 9 pieces 9 ! foam+ break]s4 ,! situation 0 critical4 ,rob]t wi%$ to l& on ! lee-side ( ! nor!rn po9t1 b t w\ld h be5 risky1 = ! /orm swept un*eck$ along ! sides ( ! isl&1 & if we did n get "u ! l& at ! "r mom5t we %\ld be driv5 out into ! op5 lake at a di/ance ( two days' voyage f ! nor!rn %ore4 ,we rock$ up & d[n on s(t gre5 cry/al4 ,i /e]$ close to ! ea/]n bank1 :]e ! waves 7 j z high4 ,"h we _h no *oice4 ,i turn$ ! b[ t[>ds ! l&1 & ! m5 r[$ = all !y 7 wor?4 ,a na/y bill[ ?rew u a%ore4 ,rob]t jump$ out1 slipp$1 & got a duck+4 ,i%e hurri$ up to help him4 ,?ree bill[s broke ov] me be=e ,i got to l&4 ,we 7 all ?ree dr5*$1 b we 7 glad to h firm gr\nd "u our feet1 & to h rea*$ ! isl& safely 9 spite ( ! trea*]\s /orm :i* might h driv5 u pa/ ?is op5 road/ead4 ,!n ,rob]t & ,i w5t r\nd ! isl& :ile ,i%e collect$ fuel4 ,?\gh we c\ld only walk sl[ly ov] ! detritus1 we took b tw5ty-five m9utes to g r\nd ! isl& & asc]ta9 its =m by compass be>+s4 ,x is longi%1 runs f nor? to s\?1 & consi/s ( a s+le rock fall+ on all sides /eeply to ! wat]4 ,dur+ our walk ! w9d dri$ u4 ,!n ,i drew a panorama ( ,gurla ,m&atta1 & aft] t ! spot ( e>? to :i* fate _h l$ u prison]s 0 subject$ to a clos] inve/igation4 ,at ! nor?-ea/]n foot ( ! elevation is a r flat pebbly plateau4 ,"h ! wild-geese bre$ 9 spr+1 & "h lay /ill sev]al ?\s& eggs1 9 twos1 ?rees1 or f\rs1 9 a ne/ ( /ones & s&4 ,t 0 a discov]y4 ,i%e _h a bag ( tsamba1 b t 0 all4 ,!re 0 e probability t we %\ld h to /ay ! night "h1 & n[ we _h a q unexpect$ /ore ( provisions to la/ = mon?s4 ,& "s "t ?is p]si/5t w9d mu/ cease4 ,we play$ at ,rob9son ,crusoe1 & f\nd our situation v advantage\s4 ,b ! egg-collect+ 0 ! mo/ int]e/+4 ,! eggs 7 pretty & appetiz+ z !y lay half emb$d$ 9 ! s&1 & ,i pictur$ to myself ! happy cackl+ t mu/ g on 9 ! spr+ :5 ! goose mo!rs sit ) expectant he>ts on ! h>d ne/s1 & ! sun floods ,gurla ,m&atta ) a sea ( light4 ,we broke two4 ,!y 7 rott54 ,we tri$ o!rs :i* lay 9 ! %ade & deep] 9 ! s&4 ,!y gave out a horrible /5* :5 ! %ell broke ) a crack on a /one4 ,b ( ab\t #bjj eggs we broke1 we f\nd eight :i* 7 edible1 & we did n want m4 ,we help$ ,i%e to collect dry plants ly+ on ! slopes1 & at sunset we _h a huge heap :i* we _h pil$ )9 a small r+ f5ce4 ,9 ! middle ! fire 0 light$1 & we sat lean+ aga9/ ! wall :i* %elt]$ u f ! w9d4 ,we 7 w>m & com=table1 & our satisfaction rea*$ its height :5 ,i%e's /ore ( tsamba 0 divid$ into ?ree equal portions1 & 0 eat5 out ( a wood5 b[l ) ! h& 9 place ( a spoon4 ,! greate/ inconv5i5ce 0 t we _h no o!r vessel b ,i%e's small wood5 b[l1 & !re=e :5ev] "o ( u want$ a dr9k he _h to tramp d[n to ! %ore4 ,! /orm /ill h[l$ ov] ! rock & ?r\gh ! holes & crannies ( ! wall4 ,!n ! ?\ght %ot ?r\gh my m9d3 ,is ! boat moor$ securely8 ,if x %\ld be c>ri$ away6 ,!n we are lo/4 ,ah1 b x may be ca/ a%ore on ! nor!rn bank1 & our m5 may fet* x & come across to ! isl&4 ,no1 x w be fill$ ) wat]1 & be sunk by ! weight ( ! z9c plates ( ! c5tre-bo>ds4 ,b !n we c m\nt 9 ! morn+ to ! s\!rn po9t & make our p und]/& by signs t we want provisions4 ,we h drift$ to ! isl& 9 eighte5 m9utes4 ,!y c make a raft ) ! t5t poles & /ays1 load x ) provisions1 & let x drift ) ! w9d to ! isl&4 ,& we may f9d m fre% eggs4 ,su* 7 ! ?\ghts t ,rob]t & ,i ex*ang$ :ile ,i%e 0 feel+ ab\t 9 total d>kness at ! l&+-place4 ,:at if we h to /ay "h till ! lake freezes ov]1 f\r mon?s h5ce8 ,i said4 ,b at ?is mom5t we he>d ,i%e's /eps 9 ! s&1 & he calm$ u ) ! assurance t bo? ! boat & ! o>s 7 safe4 ,!n we talk$ toge!r aga9 & kept up ! fire4 ,! /orm _h abat$1 b sudd5 gu/s came d[n f all qu>t]s4 ,we inspect$ ! wat]1 & f\nd t we c\ld make = ! ma9l& )\t dang]4 ,b fir/ we took all ! rema9+ fuel & pil$ x up into a blaz+ bonfire1 :i* %one l a huge beacon ov] ! lake4 ,if any ,tibetan saw x1 he mu/ h ?\ght t an en*ant$ fire 0 burn+ on ! desolate isl&4 ,! moon 0 high :5 we put (f & ! lake 0 /ill r\gh4 ,b soon ! black cape :]e our camp /ood 0 se5 on ! s\!rn %ore aga9/ ! dim backgr\nd ( m\nta9s4 ,9 ! middle ( ! s\nd ! dep? 0 #aac feet4 ,we %\t$ ) all our might1 & 7 soon answ]$ by a fire on ! po9t1 to :i* our p _h come d[n4 ,& ! roa/$ wild-goose1 :i* _h wait$ s long = u1 & a cup ( hot tea ta/$ delici\s 9 ! e>ly h\rs ( morn4 ,& /ill m delightful 0 x to creep into b$ aft] our %ort visit to ! goose isl&1 :i* rais$ its d>k1 my/]i\s1 dolph9-l ridge 9 ! moonlight4 ,nev] aga9 w\ld my foot tread its peaceful /r&4 ,,*apt] ,l ,,! ,,s\rce ,,( ,,! ,,sutlej ,we _h sc>cely dress$ 9 ! morn+ be=e ! /orm rag$ aga94 ,galsan & a gova f ,p>ka ov]took u "h4 ,! =m] br\ght provisions1 ! latt] _h /rict ord]s f 8 *ief1 ,p>ka ,tasam1 to tell me t if ,i did n at once betake myself to ,p>ka1 he w\ld s5d (f all my baggage to ,langak-tso1 & =ce me to move on to ,purang4 ,b ! gova himself 0 a jovial old fell[1 & he receiv$ my answ] t if ,p>ka ,tasam v5tur$ to m$dle ) my boxes1 he %\ld be imm$iately depos$4 ,if he kept quiet a c\ple ( days1 ,i w\ld come to ,p>ka1 & ! r t ,i f\nd x impossible to navigate ! lake at ?is season ( ! ye>4 ,!n we m>*$ on we/w>ds1 9 & out ( ! bays & r\nd all ! projections produc$ by a m\nta9 elevation nor? ( ,gurla1 :i* prolongs its ramifications to ! lake4 ,! con/antly *ang+ views1 z we w9d 9 & out & w&] betwe5 l& & wat]1 are indescribably beautiful & *>m+4 ,! two l>ge isl&s ly+ f> out 9 ! lake we see :]ev] we may be4 ,"o is nam$ ,dops]ma2 o!r wat]-birds bre$ !re1 b no geese4 ,9 w9t] yaks & %eep are driv5 ov] ! ice to ! isl&1 :]e !re is good pa/urage4 ,:5 cattle disease rages 9 ! c\ntry ! animals on ,dops]ma d n suff]4 ,we pass$ r\nd ! %>p-po9t$ we/]nmo/ bay 9 a furi\s /orm & bl9d+ cl\ds ( s&1 & encamp$ on ! %ore aga94 ,! same agreeable wea!r cont9u$ also on ! la/ day ( ,augu/ z we travell$ nor?-ea/w>ds & saw ! ,langak-tso 9 a new & beautiful aspect4 ,! air 0 n[ cle>1 ,kang-r9po*e & ,gurla ,m&atta 7 uncl\d$1 & /ood z s5t9els above ! lakes4 ,we pass$ ! po9t :]e ,tundup ,sonam1 ,i%e1 & ,i _h wait$ s long1 & by ! s&-dune :]e we _h la9 f\r h\rs4 ,at ! nor?-we/]n bay we cross ! old b$ ( ! ,sutlej1 consi/+ ( trea*]\s1 quak+ bog or dry1 h>d clay2 x is broad1 has no t]races1 & has be5 mu* degrad$ & smoo!d d[n by deflation & drifts& 9 lat] times4 ,two spr+s rise up 9 ! middle1 & fl[ 9 ! direction ( ! lake4 ,we/w>ds ! b$ seems q level1 b actually x rises sl[ly & ev5ly to a flat culm9ation1 on ! o!r side ( :i* x dips d[n t[>ds ! ,indus4 ,n[ x _h become d>k1 & we rode h\r aft] h\r among l[ hills & dunes & ov] mead[s & wat] *annels4 ,i ?\ght we _h lo/ our way1 :5 ! bells ( graz+ cattle 7 he>d1 a fire appe>$1 & ,rabsang came to meet u ) a lant]n 9 ord] to lead u to ! village ,p>ka1 :]e my t5t 0 set up 9 a c\rty>d4 ,dur+ ! mu*-ne$$ day ( re/ we all[$ ourselves 9 ,p>ka1 ,i negotiat$ n[ & !n ) ! govas ( ! neighb\rhood4 ,!y ask$ me to set (f def9itely = ! we/ next day1 & ,i promis$ to d s1 b on ! condition t ,i might /ay ?ree days 9 ,khaleb1 half a day's j\rney to ! we/4 ,!y cons5t$ )\t inquir+ into my fur!r int5tions4 ,i wi%$1 be x kn[n1 to pass r\nd ! holy m\nta9 by ! pilgrim road1 b saw t ! au?orities w\ld nev] grant _! p]mission4 ,x c\ld be done only by /ratagem4 ,"h ,i receiv$ a second v k9d lett] f ,mr4 ,cassels1 :o happ5$ to be 9 ,gyanima on (ficial bus9ess4 ,un=tunately ! =ce ( circum/ances prev5t$ u meet+4 ,he gave me a pleasant surprise ) ?ree packets ( tea1 :i* 7 ! m welcome z ,i _h latt]ly _h to put up ) brick-tea4 ,"h also ! tru? ( ! report t _h s long foll[$ u1 t six ,*9ese & ,tibetan (ficials f ,lhasa _h be5 s5t to br+ me to reason1 0 at l5g? made cle>4 ,! report 0 c]ta9ly true1 b :5 ! g5tlem5 on rea*+ ,saka-dzong he>d t ,i _h m>*$ on we/w>ds "s "t be=e1 !y simply turn$ back aga94 ,i obta9$ all k9ds ( in=mation ab\t ! two lakes & _! p]iodical outlets1 f ,tibetans :o _h long liv$ 9 ! c\ntry4 ,f\r ye>s be=e "s wat] _h fl[$ f ,tso-mavang to ,langak-tso1 :i* confirms ,ryd]'s /atem5t4 ,twelve ye>s ago ! outfl[ _h be5 s abundant t ! *annel c\ld n be pass$ except by ! bridge4 ,! *annel is sometimes call$ ,ngangga1 sometimes ,ganga4 ,! wat] ( ,langak-tso is said to dra9 (f und]gr\nd1 & to appe> aga9 at a place 9 ! old b$ call$ ,lang*5-kamba1 & ?is wat] is said to be ! true s\rce ( ! ,sutlej1 & to f9d its way to ! l>ge /reams :i* =m ?is riv]1 call$ 9 ,tibetan ,lang*5-kamba4 ,twelve ye>s & =ty-eight ye>s ago ! spr+ 9 ! old b$ is said to h emitt$ mu* m wat] ?an n[4 ,%]r+ collect$ simil> data 9 #aije4 ,langak-tso is said to h be5 s poison\s 9 =m] times t any "o :o drank ( its wat] di$1 b s9ce ! holy fi% broke ?r\gh ! i/hmus & pass$ into ! lake1 ! wat] has be5 sweet4 ,langak-tso freezes 9 ! beg9n+ ( ,decemb]1 half a mon? soon] ?an its ea/]n neighb\r1 & ! freez+ proce$s sl[ly & 9 pat*es1 :]eas ,tso-mavang freezes ov] 9 an h\r4 ,langak-tso also breaks up half a mon? be=e ,tso-mavang4 ,bo? h ice #c feet ?ick4 ,9 w9t] ! surface ( ,tso-mavang falls #bj in*es b5ea? ! ice1 :i* consequ5tly is crack$ & fissur$1 & dips f ! %ore2 b ,langak-tso s9ks only "o or two ?irds ( an in*4 ,?is %[s t x receives wat] con/antly f ! ea/]n lake1 b only p>ts ) a trifl+ quantity 9 w9t]4 ,) reg>d to ! goose isl&1 ,i 0 told t ?ree m5 are commission$ by ! ,deva%ung to settle on ! isl& z soon z ! wild-geese arrive1 to protect !m f wolves & foxes4 ,!y receive #h rupees1 a %eep1 & a lump ( butt] z wages4 ,at ?is "t1 9 ,may1 ! ice is /ill two feet ?ick1 b ! egg-ga!r]s mu/ take c>e t !y are n cut (f f ! ma9l& by a /orm4 ,"s ye>s ago x happ5$ t two wat*m5 7 isolat$ on ! isl& 9 ?is way4 ,!y liv$ !re eight mon?s1 subsi/+ on eggs & gre5 food1 & return$ ov] ! ice next w9t] z soon z ! lake 0 froz5 ov]4 ,b "o ( !m 0 s enfeebl$ t he di$ on rea*+ ,p>ka4 ,aft] a lively fea/ held by ! ,ladakis 9 ! ev5+1 we rode on ,septemb] #b nor?-we/w>ds1 accompani$ by an old grey-head$ gova1 :o _h become a p>ticul> fri5d ( m9e4 ,! wea!r 0 f9e1 b we n[ felt bit+ cold 9 ! morn+1 mu* z at home on ! islets (f ! coa/ :5 ! yell[ leaves h fall5 & a ?9 %eet ( ice has spread ov] ! inlets4 ,all ,p>ka 0 on foot to witness our dep>ture4 ,) u set out a high lama :om ,i _h kn[n 9 ,leh4 ,8 ret9ue look$ well 9 _! yell[ dresses aga9/ ! grey & gre5 gr\nd4 ,he _h be5 9 ,%igatse1 & _h lately made ! circuit ( ! holy m\nta94 ,dur+ ! m>* we wad$ ?r\gh ! riv]s ,dam-*u1 ,sung-*u1 ,la-*u1 & ,khaleb1 :i* toge!r c>ri$ ab\t #cej cubic feet ( wat] p] second to ,langak-tso4 ,! ne>] we came to ! holy m\nta91 ! less impos+ x appe>$2 x 0 f9e/ f ,langak-tso4 ,9 =m x resembles a tetrah$ron set on a prism4 ,f ! middle ( its :ite top a belt ( ice falls precipit\sly d[n1 & bel[ x /&s a /alagmite ( ice1 on to :i* a ?ick /ream ( wat] p\rs f above4 ,! /ream splits up into glitt]+ drops ( spray & ?9 %eets ( wat]--a gr& spectacle1 :i* "o c\ld wat* ) pleasure = h\rs4 ,our camp on ! ,khaleb moor _h ! advantage ( be+ f> f ! haunts ( m5--a v necess>y condition1 = "h ,i contriv$ to make ?ree excursions )\t p]mission4 ,! second ( ^! took a :ole day1 ,septemb] #f1 & its aim 0 ! old b$ ( ! ,sutlej4 ,:]e we rea*$ x1 ! b$ seem$ to conta9 /agnant wat] bo? to ! ea/ & we/1 & ! gr\nd 0 q level4 ,at ! place :i* seem$ highe/1 we te/$ x ) ! boil+-po9t !rmomet] & f\nd t x /ood ab\t #cj feet above ! lake4 ,foll[+ ! b$ we/w>ds we come fir/ to a l>ge pool ( sweet wat] ) l>ge quantities ( ducks & wat]-we$s1 !n to a s]ies ( fre%wat] swamps connect$ by *annels1 & at l5g? to a brook1 :i* fl[s sl[ly s\?-we/w>ds4 ,! brook p\rs into a l>ge fre%wat] pool1 ,no4 #b1 :i* has no visible outlet4 ,b :5 we proce$ f>!r we/ to ! po9t :]e ! b$ is contract$ betwe5 walls ( solid rock1 we come ^u two spr+s =m+ a new brook1 :i* fl[s ?r\gh a cle>ly m>k$ valley to ! s\?-we/4 ,i am conv9c$ t ?is wat] filtrates und]gr\nd f ,langak-tso4 ,a ye> lat] ,i foll[$ ! old b$ a day's m>* f>!r we/1 & f\nd at ,dl*u-gompa p]man5t spr+s ( abundant wat]1 :i* likewise well up on ! bottom ( ! b$4 ,f "h & all along its c\rse ?r\gh ! ,himalayas ! ,tibetans call ! ,sutlej ,lang*5-kamba1 ! ,elephant riv]2 ! hill on :i* ! conv5t ,dl*u-gompa is built is suppos$ to be> "s resemblance to an elephant1 & h5ce ! "n4 ,! spr+ at ,dl*u is call$ ,lang*5-kabab1 or ! m\? out ( :i* ! ,elephant riv] comes1 j z ! ,brahmaputra s\rce is ! ,tam*ok-kabab1 or ! m\? out ( :i* ! ,horse riv] comes1 & ! ,indus s\rce is ! ,s+i-kabab1 or ! m\? f :i* ! ,lion riv] comes4 ,! f\r? 9 ! s]ies is ! ,map*u-kamba1 ! ,peacock riv] or ,k>nali4 ,! ,tibetans ass]t t ! s\rce ( ! ,sutlej is at ! mona/]y ,dl*u1 n 9 ! ,himalayas or ! ,trans-,himalaya1 f :i*1 h[ev]1 x receives v volum9\s tribut>ies4 ,!y are also conv9c$ t ! s\rce wat] ( ! ,lang*5-kamba orig9ates f ,langak-tso4 ,& ,i w\ld draw p>ticul> att5tion to ! fact t ! fir/ ( ! two holy spr+s :i* p\r _! wat] into ! ,tage-tsangpo is also call$ ,lang*5-kamba 7see p4 #aje71 a pro( t 9 old times ! s\rce 0 suppos$ to lie to ! ea/ ( ,tso-mavang4 ,illu/ration3 #bfh4 ,,kailas ,,f ,,diri-,,pu4 ,illu/ration3 #bfi4 ,,conflu5ce ,,( ,,! ,,two ,,arms ,,( ,,! ,,indus4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,n[ ,i advise any "o :o takes no int]e/ 9 ! s\rce ( ! ,sutlej to skip ! foll[+ quotation4 ,dur+ my /ay 9 ,kioto 9 ,decemb] #aijh1 ,mr4 ,ogawa1 ,pr(essor ( ,geography 9 ! ,univ]sity !re1 %[$ me a collection ( ,*9ese books4 ,"o ( !m1 ,%ui-tao-ti-kang1 or ,! ,elem5ts ( ,hydrography1 is a compilation ( ! au?or ,*i ,*ao ,nan 9 ! #bf? ye> ( ! ,emp]or ,ki5 ,lung1 t is1 ! ye> #agfb1 & 9 ?is "w1 ,book #bb1 is ! foll[+ communication conc]n+ ! s\rce ( ! ,sutlej1 :i* ,pr(essor ,ogawa 0 k9d en\gh to translate = me lit]ally3#a ,! ,kang-ka-kiang comes out f ,kang-ti-ssu-%an1 on ! s\?-ea/ ( :i* !re /&s ,lang-*uan-ka-pa-pu-%an 7 ,lang*5-kabab71 magnific5t l an elephant4 ,! relief is gradually acc5tuat$ m & m t[>ds ! s\?-we/]n fronti]s1 & culm9ates at ,kang-ti-ssu-%an 7 ,kailas74 ,! m\nta9 has a circumf]5ce ( m ?an #adj li4 ,on all sides ! m\nta9 =ms precipit\s walls m ?an #ajjj feet high above ! surr\nd+ m\nta9s1 & accumulat$ sn[ seems z if hung on cliffs4 ,hundr$s ( spr+s p\r d[n f ! top1 b fl[ "u ! gr\nd on ! foot ( ! m\nta94 ,x is situat$ 9 ! extreme we/ ( ! ,tsang region1 #caj li nor?-ea/ ( ,ta-ko-la-*5g 9 ,a-li1 m ?an #eeij li s\?-we/ ( ,si-n+-fu 9 ,%5si prov9ce4 ,its longitude is #cf #d' ,w41 & its latitude #cj #e' ,n4 ,9 old5 times ! place 0 unkn[n1 b c be d\btfully id5tifi$ ) ,a-nok-ta-%an 9 ! annotation ( ,%ui-*+4 ,9 ! neighb\rhood !re are f\r high m\nta9s1 ( :i* ! s\!rn is call$ ,lang-*uan-ka-pa-pu-%an1 ly+ #bej li s\?-by-ea/ ( ,kang-ti-ssu-%an1 & #bgj li ea/ ( ,ta-kola-*5g4 ,! natives call x s1 because ! =m ( ! m\nta9 resembles an elephant4 ,on ! ea/ ( ?is m\nta9 !re /&s ,ta-mu-*u-ko-ka-pa-pu-%an 7 ,tam*ok-kabab71 :i* is ! s\rce ( ! ,ya-lu-tsang-pu riv] 7 ,y]e-tsangpo or ,brahmaputra74 ,spr+s come out f ! nor!rn foot ( ! m\nta91 & accumulate into a lake 7#ce #e' ,w41 & #bi #a' ,n474 ,! wat] fl[s nor?-we/w>ds = #gj li1 & receives a /ream com+ f ! nor?-ea/4 ,! /ream lies 9 ! m\nta9s #hj li nor?-ea/ ( ,lang-*uan-ka-pa-pu4 ,two /reams fl[ we/w>ds f ! m\nta9 & turn nor?-we/w>ds aft] _! junction4 ,x n[ takes a s9u\s c\rse = #fj li1 turns s\?-we/w>ds1 & jo9s ! ma9 riv]4 ,?is is a s\rce4 ,! riv] fl[s fur!r to ! we/-by-nor? = #dj li1 !n to ! nor?-ea/1 to be met by ! wat] ( lake ,kung-%5g 7 ,gun*u-tso71 :i* s9ks "u ! gr\nd ( ! lake bas91 b :i*1 aft] reappe>+1 & aft] receiv+ ?ree nor!rn afflu5ts1 runs s\?-we/w>ds to ! riv]4 ,! lake ( ,kung-%5g-o-mo has two s\rces--"o com+ f ! nor?-ea/1 f ,ta-ko-la-kung-ma-%an1 & fl[+ #aej-afj li2 ! o!r f ! ea/1 f ! we/]n foot ( ,ma-erh-yo-mu-l+ 7 ,m>ium-la7 9 ! we/]n fronti]s ( ,*o-%u-t4 ,?is la/-m5tion$ m\nta9 =ms ! ea/]n b\nd>y ( ,a-li1 & is ! *ief range go+ s\?-ea/w>ds f ,kang-ti-ssu4 ,! wat] 7( ! lake ,kung-%5g7 fl[s we/w>ds = m ?an #ej li1 & =ms ano!r lake1 #hj li wide1 & )\t an outlet4 ,h[ev]1 m ?an #aj li f>!r to ! we/ !re is a ?ird lake ) a subt]ranean s\rce & ) a l5g? ( #cj li4 ,a /ream comes f ! nor? to ! lake4 ,! riv] n[ fl[s s\?-we/w>ds = #fj li1 & receives a /ream com+ f ! nor?-ea/4 #dj li f>!r s\?-we/w>ds x receives a /ream com+ f ! nor!rn m\nta9s2 f>!r s\?-we/w>ds ! riv] meets ! wat] f ,lang-*uan-ka-pa-pu-%an4 ,! wat] =ms ! lake ,ma-piu-mu-ta-lai 7 ,tso-mavang74 ,f s\? to nor? x is #aej li long1 f ea/ to we/ #hj or #ajj li wide1 & has a circumf]5ce ( m ?an #bjj li4 ,on ! nor!rn side ( ! lake !re are two /reams com+ f ! nor?4 ,! lake is situat$ #abj li to ! s\? ( ,kang-ti-ssu4 ,! wat] fl[s out f ! we/ ( ! lake into ! lake ,lang-ka 7 ,lan-gak-tso7 at a di/ance ( #fj li4 ,! latt] lake receives a /ream com+ f ! nor?-ea/4 ,lake ,lang-ka has a n>r[ rectangul> %ape1 po9t$ & elongat$1 ! l5g? f s\? to nor? be+ #agj li1 & ! wid? f ea/ to we/ #ajj li4 ,its nor!rn po9t$ corn] has ! /ream com+ f nor?-ea/4 ,!re are ?ree s\rces on ! s\!rn foot at a di/ance ( #gj li f a s\!rn bran* ( ,kang-ti-ssu2 !y fl[ s\?w>ds1 unite into "o /ream1 :i* takes a s\?-we/]ly c\rse = #aej-afj li be=e ent]+ ! lake4 ,! lake is ! same 9 circumf]5ce & area1 b diff]5t 9 outl9e4 ,! wat] 7( lake ,lang-ka7 fl[s out f ! we/1 & aft] runn+ we/w>ds = m ?an #ajj li x turns to ! s\?-we/1 & is n[ call$ ! ,lang-*u-ho1 & takes a s9u\s c\rse = m ?an #bjj li4 ,!n x receives ! ,*u-ka-la-ho com+ f ! nor?-ea/4 ,?is description ( ! position ( ! s\rce ( ! ,sutlej is ( su* extraord9>y int]e/ t ,i d n l to res]ve x = my sci5tific "w1 & ! less s t x supports ! !ory ,i express$ :5 9 ,india1 t ! ,tage-tsangpo is no?+ b ! upp]mo/ section ( ! c\rse ( ! ,sutlej1 or1 9 o!r words1 t ! s\rce ( ! ,tage-tsangpo is also t ( ! ,sutlej4 ,_m quotations h be5 look$ up dur+ ! discussion t has aris5 on ?is problem1 b !y _c comp>e 9 importance ) ! "o j cit$1 :i*1 moreov]1 is sixty ye>s old] ?an ! olde/ ( ! o!rs1 namely1 ,g]>d's op9ion t ! ,gun*u-tso is ! s\rce ( ! ,sutlej4 ,! description 9 ,*i ,*ao ,nan's ,hydrography is di/+ui%$ by ! same c>eful con=mity ) ! tru? & consci5ti\sness z all o!r ,*9ese geographical descriptions4 ,comp>e ! description ( ,kailas 7,kang-r9po*e7 ) :at ,i h already said ab\t x4 ,lang-*uan-ka-pa-pu is ! ,*9ese translation ( ! ,tibetan ,lang*5-kabab1 :i* lit]ally means ! ,s\rce ( ! ,sutlej4 ,:5 ! ,*9ese au?or in=ms u t ea/ ( ,lang*5-kabab lies ,tam*ok-kabab1 :i* is ! s\rce ( ! riv] ,y]e-tsangpo 7,brahmaputra71 we mu/ admit t 8 description is q 9 accordance ) ! tru?1 z ,i1 ! fir/ ,european to visit ?is c\ntry1 h myself discov]$2 = on ! ,tamlung-la ,i /ood on ! pass :i* p>ts ! wat] betwe5 ! ,brahmaputra & ,sutlej1 & imm$iately to ! s\? ( ! pass ,i saw ,gang-lung-gangri & ! glaci] f :i* ! ,tage-tsangpo takes its rise1 & 9 :i* ! s\rce ( ! ,sutlej lies4 ,x is fur!r said t ! lake ,gun*u-tso has two s\rce /reams--"o f ! nor?-ea/1 f ! m\nta9 ,ta-ko-la-kung-ma1 :i* is evid5tly id5tical ) ,d',anville's ,tacra-concla2 ! o!r f ! we/ side ( ! pass ,m>ium-la3 an acc\nt :i* agrees ) ,ryd]'s map 9 all p>ticul>s4 ,at pres5t ! ,gun*u-tso is completely cut (f & is salt2 x !re=e is no long] connect$ ) ! ,sutlej sy/em4 ,b #adg ye>s ago x _h an outlet :i* ran p>tly und]gr\nd1 & !n1 ris+ up aga91 jo9$ ! ,lang*5-kamba or ,tage-tsangpo4 ,& t ! ,tage-tsangpo 0 at "o "t consid]$ by ! ,tibetans to be ! headwat] ( ! ,sutlej is app>5t f ! fact t its "n1 ,lang*5-kamba1 is /ill appli$ to ! upp] ( ! two sacr$ s\rce /reams 9 ! valley ( ! ,tage-tsangpo4 ,&1 aga91 x is said3 ,?is wat]1 t is1 ! wat] ( ! ,lang*5-kabab1 or ! headwat] ( ! ,sutlej1 =ms ! lake ,ma-piu-mu-ta-lai1 ! ,tso-mavang or ,tso-mavam1 z ! "n is also pron\nc$2 on ,d',anville's map 7,map #b7 x is writt5 ,ma-pama ,talai1 & ,d',anville expla9s t ,talai signifies lake4 ,he might h add$ t x is ! same ^w z 9 ,dalai ,lama1 ! prie/1 ^: wisdom is z unfa?omable z ! ocean2 = ! ,*9ese ^w ,talai or ,dalai means ocean4 ,by ! use ( ?is ^w ! ,*9ese au?or wi%$ to imply t ,tso-mavang is mu* l>g] ?an ! o!r lakes m5tion$ 9 8 text4 ,! surplus wat]1 z !re is e reason to assume1 fl[$ 9 ! ye> #agfb f ,tso-mavang ?r\gh ! *annel to ,langak-tso4 ,! l5g? ( ! *annel 0 #fj li1 :i* corresponds to my #e miles4 ,all ! nor!rn tribut>ies :i* fl[ into ! two lakes f ! valleys ( ! ,trans-,himalaya are correctly not$4 ,! lake ,langak is call$ ,lang-ka4 ,on ,d',anville's map1 ! mat]ial = :i* 0 suppli$ by ! ,jesuits :o liv$ 9 ,pek9 9 ! "t ( ! ,emp]or ,kang ,hi 7at ! beg9n+ ( ! eighte5? c5tury71 ! lake is nam$ ,lank54 ,on ! same map ! riv] fl[+ !nce we/w>ds is call$ ,lanc-t*\ 7,sutlej71 b x is sugge/$1 absurdly en\gh1 t x is ! upp] c\rse ( ! ,ganges4 ,d',anville names ! m\nta9s s\? ( ,tso-mavang ,lant*ia-,kep\1 :i* is ,lang*5-kabab1 & ! m\nta9s ly+ to ! s\?-ea/ ( !m ,tam-t*\1 t is1 ,tam*ok1 9 :i* he q correctly places ! orig9 ( ! ,y>\ ,tsanp\1 ! ,brahmaputra4 ,! mat]ial = ! map ( ! :ole ,*9ese ,empire1 :i* ! ,jesuits pres5t$ to ! ,emp]or ,kang ,hi 9 ! ye> #agah1 0 collect$ betwe5 ! ye>s #agjh & #agaf1 & ! ,emp]or procur$ in=mation ab\t ,tibet ?r\gh natives1 :o 7 prep>$ = _! "w by ! ,jesuits1 j z 9 lat] times ,engli% topograph]s h tra9$ ,indian pundits4 ,f ,d',anville's map we le>n t #bjj ye>s ago ! ,sutlej fl[$ out ( ,langak-tso ?r\gh ! b$ ,i h already describ$4 ,pr(essor ,ogawa's translation ( ! ,*9ese text %[s u t ev5 9 ! ye> #agfb1 or p]haps "s ye>s be=e1 ! riv] /ill em]g$ f ! ,langak-tso4 ,& x is expressly said t ! riv] ,*u-ka-la-ho 7,*u-k>1 :i*1 h[ev]1 is said to desc5d f ! nor?-ea/ in/ead ( ! s\?-ea/7 is only a tribut>y4 ,9 ! ye> #ahdf ,h5ry ,/ra*ey f\nd no visible outlet1 b he says t !re is "o und]gr\nd1 & consid]s x probable t ! *annel also may c>ry wat] :5 ! lake has ris5 aft] heavy ra9s4 ,on ,july #cj1 #aijh1 ,i he>d f ! *ief lama ( ! mona/]y ,dl*u-gompa1 :o 0 born 9 ! neighb\rhood & 0 !n fifty-five ye>s old1 t :5 he 0 q "y1 wat] occasionally fl[$ out ( ! lake4 ,b :5 he 0 t5 ye>s old1 t w\ld be 9 ! ye> #ahfc1 ?is wat] _h fail$1 & s9ce !n no m _h be5 se54 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! spr+s 9 ! b$ are con/ant bo? 9 w9t] & 9 summ]1 & are indep5d5t ( ! precipitation4 ,! monks believe t ! wat] comes f ,langak-tso1 b nev]!less !y call x ! ,lang*5-kabab1 ! riv] :i* fl[s out ( ! m\? ( ! elephant4 ,my inve/igations on ! spot1 z well z ! ,*9ese quotation1 prove t ,colonel ,s4 ,g4 ,burr>d is q "r 9 8 ma/]ly description ( ! riv]s ( ! ,himalayas & ,tibet 7,calcutta1 #aijg71 :5 he includes ,tso-mavang & ,langak-tso & all _! afflu5ts 9 ! dra9age bas9 ( ! ,sutlej1 & !re=e ,i w "h cite two s5t5ces ( ,colonel ,burr>d3 ,! connection betwe5 ! two lakes may be tak5 z e/abli%$1 b t betwe5 ! we/]n lake & ! ,sutlej bas9 is /ill op5 to "q4 ,if ! wat] f ,rakas-tal fl[s into ! ,sutlej once a c5tury1 & !n only = su* a %ort p]iod z to be obs]v$ by no "o1 we %all /ill be ju/ifi$ 9 includ+ ! lakes 9 ! cat*m5t area ( ! riv]4 ,& 9 ?is connection ,i w\ld po9t out t ! wat]-level ( ,tibetan riv]s & lakes is subject to p]iodical fluctuations1 dep5d5t on ! precipitation1 ( ! same k9d z ! ,brckn] p]iods4 ,! level 9 ! two lakes v>ies f ye> to ye>4 ,at ! pres5t "t !y are v l[1 b !re is no?+ to prev5t !m ris+ gradually 9 a m or less di/ant future4 ,tso-mavang may rise s t its wat] may aga9 fl[ ?r\gh ! *annel to ,langak-tso1 & ?is lake at l5g? may dis*>ge its surplus wat]1 z =m]ly1 ?r\gh ! dry b$ ( ! ,sutlej4 ,x is m probable1 h[ev]1 t ,langak-tso is approa*+ a "t :5 x w lose its subt]ranean outlet also1 & be q isolat$1 l ,gun*u-tso & ,panggong-tso1 & consequ5tly become salt 9 "t4 ,b aft] x has lo/ its outlet x may be a long "t1 z ,pr(essor ,brckn] in=ms me1 be=e ! lake becomes noticeably salt4 ,! next /ep 9 ! developm5t w be t ,tso-mavang w be cut (f f ,langak-tso & likewise become salt4 ,h[ev]1 we ne$ n plunge into speculations & progno/ications ( ! future1 :i* may h surprises 9 /ore ab\t :i* we c =m only m or less probable conjectures4 ,x is our duty to rely solely on fact & obs]vation4 ,& n[ t we are agre$ t ! two lakes belong to ! dra9age area ( ! ,sutlej1 ! "q is3 ,:i* ( ! riv]s deb\*+ into ,tso-mavang is ! headwat] ( ! ,sutlej8 ,naturally1 ! longe/ & ! "o :i* c>ries mo/ wat]4 ,! riv] :i* once fl[$ out ( ,gun*u-tso has no claim to ?is hon\r1 & ! ,gun*u-tso mu/ be reject$ z ! s\rce ( ! ,sutlej4 ,! ,tage-tsangpo dis*>g$ #chh cubic feet ( wat] p] second1 :ile all ! o!r /reams ent]+ ,tso-mavang c>ri$ at mo/ #ajj cubic feet ea*4 ,! s\rce ( ! ,tage-tsangpo 9 ! front ( ! ,gang-lung glaci] is !re=e ! s\rce ( ! ,sutlej4 ,illu/ration3 #bgj4 ,,tibetan ,,female ,,pilgrims ,,at ,,kailas4 ,,footnote3 #a ,i h only omitt$ a c\ple ( s5t5ces1 :i* h no imm$iate connection ) ! problem4 ,,*apt] ,,li ,a ,,pilgrimage ,,r\nd ,,kang-,,r9po*e ,we are aga9 on ! ,khaleb moor & ! day is ,septemb] #c1 on :i* we are to beg9 ! circuit ( ! holy m\nta94 ,! head ,gova ( ,p>ka is ) u to hold me 9 *eck1 b ,i take v good c>e n to betray my plans4 ,ts]+1 ,rabsang1 ,namgyal1 & ,i%e are to g ) me2 !y are ,lamai/s1 & are glad ( ! opportunity to come ne>] ! gates ( salvation by w&]+ r\nd ! holy m\nta94 ,we take provisions = ?ree days1 ! absolutely necess>y in/rum5ts1 sket*- & note-books4 ,! /& ( ! l>ge cam]a & "o ( ! boat's t>paul9s are to s]ve z a t5t4 ,! :ole baggage is only a light load = a horse4 ,i ride my small grey ,ladaki & ! f\r m5 m>* on foot1 = no "o may ride r\nd ! holy m\nta9 unless he is a hea!n1 l myself4 ,! re/ ( ! c>avan is to wait = u 9 ,khaleb1 & my t5t is to be left unt\*$ t ! ,tibetans may ?9k t ,i am expect$ back 9 ! ev5+4 ,ts]+1 ,namgyal1 & ,i%e />t e>ly1 & ,rabsang & ,i a little lat]4 ,! ,gova & 8 m5 come to ask :at x all means & :i!r ,i am go+1 b ,i answ] only1 ,i %all soon be back aga91 & ride (f to ! nor?1 #cj ,e41 to ! m\? ( ! ,dunglung valley4 ,! o!rs wait = u among ! fir/ mora9es1 & !n we proce$ 9 close column up & d[n among old mora9es :i* h be5 ?ru/ d[n by vani%$ glaci]s4 ,a p>ty ( pilgrims f ,kham 9 ! di/ant ea/ are re/+ on ! bank ( ! ,dunglung riv]4 ,!y h pit*$ _! t5ts1 & _! horses are graz+ on ! fre% grass4 ,f ! top ( ! mora9e is se5 ! nor!rn "p ( our /ormy ,langak-tso4 ,we ride up ! valley & soon h on bo? sides solid rock ( h>d gre5 & violet conglom]ate1 ) huge cones ( detritus at ! foot ( ! slopes4 ,enorm\s b\ld]s ( conglom]ate h fall5 d[n "h4 ,on ! left bank ( ! riv]1 :]e ! road comes up f ,t>*51 /& a small cubical h\se & sev]al manis & *hort5s 9 long r[s3 x is a sacr$ road1 ! road ( pilgrims r\nd ,kang-r9po*e4 ,! cliffs assume ev] wild] =ms1 fall+ p]p5dicul>ly to t]races & pebble screes1 =m+ /eps & l$ges1 =tifications1 battlem5ts & t[]s1 z ?\gh built by human h&s4 ,!y consi/ ( s&/one & conglom]ate1 & ! /rata dip #aj to ! s\?1 & to ! eye appe> horizontal4 ,a small bridge spans ! riv]4 ,a p>ty ( pilgrims beh9d u is j cross+ x4 ,b we are on ! "r bank1 & above u ,ny&i-gompa is p]*$ on its t]race4 ,above x rises ! v]tical wall ( a huge m\nta9 mass1 a dang]\s backgr\nd = ! mona/]y4 ,up on a l$ge dwells a h]mit1 & q at ! top /&s a /ream] pole nam$ ,ny&i-kong4 ,five ye>s ago a huge block fell d[n ^u ! mona/]y & laid half ( x 9 ru9s4 ,! block /ill lies 9 ! inn] c\rt4 ,x 0 e>ly 9 ! morn+ aft] long-cont9u\s ra92 no "o 0 hurt1 b ! mona/]y _h to be rebuilt4 ,two monks1 two old wom51 & a boy receiv$ u k9dly1 & said x 0 ! fir/ "t !y _h se5 a ,european 9 ,ny&i4 ,! mona/]y1 z well z ! ?ree o!rs on ,kailas1 is "u ,t>*5-labrang1 :i* is situat$ on ! s\!rn foot ( ! m\nta91 :]e ! pilgrims beg9 & end _! circuit4 ,curi\sly en\gh1 ^! mona/]ies belong to ,tongsa ,p5lop1 ! ,raja ( ,bhotan4 ,! prec$+ ye>1 #aijf1 0 a ye> ( ! fire horse1 & ! ye> #aiah w be a ye> ( ! e>? horse2 e twelf? ye> is a horse ye>1 9 :i* wood1 fire1 e>?1 iron or wat] is prefix$ to ! "n horse2 ! ,tibetan cycle 7! p]iod ( "t :i* is ! base ( ! reckon+7 ext5ds ov] sixty ye>s ) ! names ( twelve diff]5t animals4 ,e horse ye>1 & accord+ly e twelf? ye>1 cr[ds ( pilgrims come to ,kailas4 ,! monks said t !y _c be c\nt$1 b !y knew t 9 ! ye> #aijg m ?an #ejjj pilgrims _h be5 at ,ny&i1 ( :om ! great] "p came f ,ladak4 ,! lhakang1 or hall ( ! gods1 is v orig9al4 ,f\r pill>s support ! ro(4 ,! alt>1 l a ,*9ese kiosque ( wood pa9t$ 9 col\rs1 /&s alone & 9 deep %ad[1 b s _m votive lights are plac$ 9 front t !y seem l a fe/ival illum9ation4 ,an especial lamp hangs be=e ! image ( ,sakya-muni1 :i* /&s aga9/ a wall4 ,9 front ( ! alt> is a huge copp] vessel ) a cov]1 :i* is call$ ,tosungjn4 ,x is said to h fl[n 9 old times f ,india ?r\gh ! air4 ,9 w9t] x is fill$ ) butt]1 9 summ] ) *ang4 ,a lama ) a brass ladle p\r$ ! consecrat$ bev]age into ! b[ls ( my m51 & out ( ! silv] b[ls ) peacocks' fea!rs he p\r$ holy wat] into ! holl[ ( _! h&s2 !y drank ( x & besme>$ _! faces ) ! re/4 ,all1 except ,rabsang1 paid due rev]5ce to ! /atues & pray$1 & ,ts]+ _h murmur$ 8 pray]s all ! way along & let ! beads ( 8 ros>y slip ?r\gh 8 f+]s4 ,two f9e elephant's tusks 7lang*5-sala-rapt57 7 set up be=e ! alt>4 ,9 ! ,ts5kang hall is a figure ( ,hlabs5 clo!d 9 gold brocade & kadakhs1 ! god ( ,kang-r9po*e & ,tso-mavang4 ,9 ! ante-*amb] is a :ole ars5al ( guns & swords & wood5 & lea!rn %ields1 ea* ) f\r iron bosses4 ,on ! outside ( ! mona/]y1 :i* fronts ! holy m\nta91 r[s ( arti/ically sculptur$ slabs are affix$4 ,on six ( !m ea* ( ! holy *>act]s is incis$1 & ea* ( ! gigantic *>act]s is aga9 fill$ 9 ) ! inv>iable alpha & omega ( ,lamaism1 ,om mani padme hum4 ,on o!r flag/ones gods are c>v$ ) wond]ful dext]ity1 & "o feels a va9 desire to buy "o or two ( !m4 ,! view f ! ro( is indescribably beautiful4 ,! icy summit ( ,kang-r9po*e rises amid fanta/ic fissur$ precipit\s rocks1 & 9 ! =egr\nd are ! picturesque sup]/ructure ( ! mona/]y & its /ream]s 7,illu/4 #bfe74 ,b "t flies4 ,aft] sp5d+ ?ree h\rs 9 ,ny&i1 we say f>ewell to ! monks1 desc5d ! /eep pa? zigzagg+ among rubbi% & b\ld]s1 & cont9ue our j\rney to ! nor?-nor?-ea/ along ! "r bank ( ! riv]4 ,at e turn ,i c\ld /& /ill 9 a/oni%m5t1 = ?is valley is "o ( ! gr&e/ & mo/ beautiful 9 its wildness t ,i h ev] se54 ,! precipice on ! "r side ( ! valley is divid$ into two /ages ) a t]race betwe5 !m1 & 9 ! mid/ gapes a d>k rav9e4 ,on ! left side ! rock =ms a s+le v]tical wall1 & "h ! eyes fall on a succession ( s+ul> =ms ( relief1 rocks l congeal$ cascades1 citadels1 *ur* t[]s1 & embattl$ =tifications1 sep>at$ by caon-l holl[s4 ,wat] f melt+ sn[fields p\rs d[n ! /eep slopes4 ,"o su* jet ( wat] is q #hjj feet high & :ite z milk2 ! w9d turns x into spray1 b x collects aga91 only to be split up aga9/ a projection4 ,! rock ar\nd x is wet & d>k ) spurt$ drops4 ,a natural rock bridge crosses a small cleft ) v]tical walls4 ,imm$iately beyond ! mona/]y ! summit ( ,kailas is lo/ to view1 b soon a bit ( x is se5 aga9 ?r\gh a gap4 ,we pass$ twelve pilgrims1 & soon aft] a second p>ty re/+ on a slope4 ,!y put on solemn faces & d n talk ) "o ano!r1 b murmur pray]s1 walk+ ) _! bodies b5t1 & lean+ on a /aff--frequ5tly1 too1 )\t a /aff4 ,h[ !y h long$ to come "h6 ,& n[ !y are "h & walk r\nd ! m\nta91 :i* is always on _! "r4 ,!y feel no we>9ess1 = !y "k t e /ep improves _! prospects 9 ! _w beyond ! riv] ( dea?4 ,& :5 !y h return$ to _! black t5ts 9 di/ant valleys1 !y tell _! fri5ds ( all ! wond]s !y h se51 & ( ! cl\ds1 :i* sail l ! dragon %ips ( old bel[ ! :ite summit ( ,gangri4 ,small conical cairns are ev]y:]e4 ,ts]+ nev] omits to take up a /one f ! m>g9 ( ! road & lay x z 8 contribution on e su* votive pile1 & !reby he does a good de$1 = he makes ! way less r\gh = ^? :o come aft] him4 ,! sun looks out ?r\gh a gap1 & ?r[s a bright yell[ light into ! valley1 :i* o!rwise is 9 %ad[4 ,! icy peak aga9 appe>s mu* =e%ort5$4 ,sev]al tribut>ies come 9 f ! sides1 & t[>ds ev5+ ! riv] rises1 conta9+ q #bhj cubic feet ( wat]4 ,a man f ,g]tse has be5 go+ r\nd ! m\nta9 = tw5ty successive days1 & n[ has j accompli%$ 8 t5? circuit4 ,dunglung-d is a v important valley junction1 :]e ?ree valleys conv]ge--! ,*amo-lung-*5 f ! nor?1 #gj ,w41 ! ,dunglung f ! nor?1 #e ,w41 & ! ?ird1 call$ 9 its upp] c\rse ,hle-lungpa1 :i* we asc5d4 ,we n[ h granite on bo? sides4 ,kailas turns a %>p edge to ! nor?1 & f "h ! peak resembles a tetrah$ron m ?an ev]4 ,aga9 ! m\nta9 is conceal$ by an elevation ( ! r+ :i* girdles x z ,monte ,somma encircles ,vesuvius4 ,! ma9 riv] swells up t[>ds ev5+2 ! o!r two are spann$ by bridges4 ,numb]s ( b\ld]s lie all ab\t4 ,all is granite1 & !re=e ! m\nta9 =ms are r\nd] & m lumpy 7,illu/4 #bfg74 ,at l5g? we see ! mona/]y ,diri-pu 9 front ( u1 /&+ on ! slope on ! "r side ( ! valley4 ,a huge block ( granite beside ! pa? up to x be>s ! usual sacr$ *>act]s1 & !re also are long manis1 /ream]s1 & cairns4 ,all ! pilgrims we h ov]tak5 9 ! c\rse ( ! day turn into ! mona/]y1 :]e !y c pass ! night free ( *>ge4 ,! conv5t is cramm$ full aft] ! arrival ( a p>ty ( pilgrims belong+ to ! ,pembo sect4 ,^!1 ( c\rse1 w&] r\nd ! m\nta9 9 ! rev]se direction1 & ! or?odox ca/ contemptu\s glances at !m :5 !y meet4 ,i pref] to pit* my t5t on ! ro(1 :]e ! luggage ( ! pilgrims is pil$ up4 ,"h also !re is a f9e view ( ,kailas1 rais+ its summit due s\?4 ,) a temp]ature ( #dj at n9e o'clock x is cold & disagreeable1 = a /rong w9d bl[s1 & my t5t1 consi/+ only ( ! cam]a-/& cov]$ ) a l95 clo?1 is too small to all[ ( a fire be+ light$ 7,illu/4 #bfh74 ,s9ce ,i _h be5 successful 9 fix+ ! positions ( ! s\rces ( ! ,brahmaputra & ,sutlej1 my old dream ( discov]+ ! s\rce ( ! ,indus 0 reviv$1 & all my aspirations & ambition 7 n[ conc5trat$ on ?is object4 ,:5 ,i n[ le>n$ f ! monks t ! po9t :]e ! fam\s riv] issues =? f ! ,m\? ( ! ,lion 0 only ?ree days' j\rney to ! nor?-ea/ beyond a l(ty pass1 ev]y?+ else seem$ ( trifl+ consequ5ce comp>$ to an advance into ! unkn[n c\ntry 9 ! nor?4 ,we held a c\ncil ( w>2 we _h provisions only = two days m1 & we _h n br\ght en\gh money ) u1 &1 moreov]1 ! /ate ( affairs 9 ,khaleb 0 too unc]ta9 to all[ ( great] haz>ds4 ,i !re=e decid$ to c>ry out my orig9al plan 9 ! meantime & complete ! pilgrimage1 & aft]w>ds make ! s\rce ( ! ,indus ! object ( a fre% excursion f ,khaleb1 or1 if ! wor/ came to ! wor/1 f ,g>tok4 ,illu/ration3 #bga4 ,,! ,,gova ,,by ,,^: ,,help ,,! ,,s\rce ,,( ,,! ,,indus ,,0 ,,discov]$ 7,,seat$7 ,,& ,,tibetans ,,at ,,kailas4 ,on ,septemb] #d we take leave ( ! monks ( ,diri-pu1 cross by a bridge ! riv] :i* comes d[n f ! pass ,tseti-la*5-la 9 ! ,trans-,himalaya1 f ! o!r side ( :i* ! wat] fl[s to ! ,indus1 & m\nt 9 an ea/]ly direction ov] r\gh /eep slopes ?ickly be/rewn ) granite b\ld]s4 ,on our "r is ! riv] :i* is f$ by ! glaci]s ( ,kailas2 x is q %ort1 b is v full ( wat]4 ,! pa? becomes /ill /eep]1 w9d+ among imm5se blocks ( granite1 & leads up to ! fir/ hump1 aft] :i* ! gr\nd is a little m ev5 to ! next break4 ,"h we h a spl5did view ( ! %ort truncat$ glaci] :i*1 f$ f a %>ply def9$ tr\gh-%ap$ firn bas91 lies on ! nor? side ( ,kailas4 ,its t]m9al1 lat]al1 & m$ial mora9es are small b di/9ct4 ,ea/w>ds f ,kailas runs (f an exce$+ly %>p1 po9t$1 & jagg$ ridge1 cov]$ on ! nor? side ) sn[1 & belts ( pebbles 9 ! sn[ give all ?is side a furr[$ appe>ance4 ,f all corn]s ( ! ice mantle & ! sn[fields foam+ brooks hurry d[n to ! riv]4 ,on our left1 nor?w>ds1 ! m\nta9s consi/ ( v]tical fissur$ granite 9 wild pyramidal =ms4 ,kailas is protect$ on ! nor? by imm5se masses ( granite1 b ! m\nta9 itself is 9 all probability ( conglom]ate1 z %[n by ! ne>ly horizontal b$d+ pla9ly p]ceptible 9 ! project+ l$ges1 %>ply m>k$ sn[-l9es1 & belts ( ice4 ,! summit rises above ?is sea ( wild m\nta9s l a mighty cry/al ( hexagonal =m4 ,a p>ty ( poor wom5 & *ildr5 climb$ we>ily up to ! pass4 ,an eld]ly man1 :o 0 n[ mak+ 8 n9? circuit1 made no objection to jo9 our p>ty2 he knew ! c\ntry & c\ld give in=mation ab\t x4 ,on ano!r rise 9 ! gr\nd1 call$ ,tutu-dapso1 we saw hundr$s ( votive cairns1 #c feet high--q a =e/ ( /one pyramids--l innum]able grave/ones 9 a *ur*y>d 7,illu/4 #bgj74 ,sl[ly & labori\sly we climb$ up ?is ardu\s pass1 "o ( ! mo/ tr\blesome on ! :ole j\rney4 ,?ick] & ?ick] lay ! b\ld]s1 exclusively ( granite 9 all possible v>ieties1 "s p9k & "s s light a grey z to be almo/ :ite4 ,betwe5 two b\ld]s lay a suspici\s-look+ bundle ( clo!s4 ,we exam9$ x1 & f\nd t x conta9$ ! body ( a man :o _h collaps$ 9 mak+ ! t\r ( ! m\nta9 ( ! gods4 ,8 features 7 rigid1 & he seem$ poor & emaciat$4 ,no "o knew :o he 01 & if he _h any relations !y w\ld nev] le>n t 8 pilgrimage _h laun*$ him into new adv5tures among ! d>k mazes ( ! s\l's migrations4 ,our old man /ops at a flat granite block ( colossal dim5sions1 & says t ?is is a dikpa-k>nak1 or a te/-/one = s9n]s4 ,a n>r[ tunnel runs "u ! block1 & :oev] is )\t s91 or at any rate has a cle> consci5ce1 c creep ?r\gh ! passage1 b ! man :o /icks fa/ 9 ! middle is a sc\ndrel4 ,i ask$ ! old man :e!r x might n happ5 t a ?9 rogue w\ld wriggle ?r\gh :ile a fat1 hone/ fell[ might /ick fa/2 b he answ]$ v s]i\sly t /\tness _h no?+ to d ) ! result ( ! trial1 :i* dep5d$ only on ! /ate ( ! s\l4 ,evid5tly our hone/ ,i%e 0 n c]ta9 :i* way ! balance ( 8 consci5ce incl9$1 =1 be=e we 7 aw>e1 we saw him disappe>+ "u ! block1 & he>d him puff+1 pant+1 & groan+1 scrat*+ ) 8 h&s & try+ to get a foo?old beh9d4 ,b :5 he _h fl\nd]$ ab\t inside long & vigor\sly1 he 0 at la/ oblig$ to call = help 9 a half-/rangl$ voice4 ,we laugh$ till we c\ld h>dly keep on our feet1 & let him /ay a :ile 9 8 hole because ( 8 manife/ s9fulness4 ,!n ! two o!r m5 dragg$ him out by ! legs1 & he look$ extremely confus$ 7& du/y7 :5 he at l5g? em]g$ aga9 into ! out] _w1 an unmask$ villa94 ,! old man told u t a woman _h become s firmly fix$ t %e _h actually to be dug out4 ,"s #bjj paces f>!r 9 ?is maze ( granite b\ld]s1 among :i* we w&]$ z 9 lanes betwe5 l[ h\ses & walls1 /&s a te/-/one ( ano!r k9d4 ,x consi/s ( ?ree blocks lean+ on "o ano!r1 ) two holl[s betwe5 !m4 ,! task is to creep ?r\gh ! left passage & return by ! "r1 t is1 9 ! or?odox direction4 ,"h ,i%e made up = 8 previ\s discomfiture by crawl+ ?r\gh bo? holes4 ,i told him frankly t !re 0 no skill requir$ "h1 = ! holes 7 s l>ge t ev5 small yaks c\ld g ?r\gh4 ,h[ev]1 ! s9n] _h 9 ?is second /one an opportunity ( pres]v+ at lea/ a %[ ( righte\sness4 ,our w&]+s r\nd ,kang-r9po*e1 ! holy ice m\nta9 or ! ice jewel1 is "o ( my mo/ memorable recollections ( ,tibet1 & ,i q und]/& h[ ! ,tibetans c reg>d z a div9e sanctu>y ?is wond]ful m\nta9 :i* has s /rik+ a resemblance to a *hort51 ! monum5t :i* is erect$ 9 memory ( a deceas$ sa9t )9 or )\t ! temples4 ,h[ (t5 dur+ our roam+s _h ,i he>d ( ?is m\nta9 ( salvation6 ,& n[ ,i myself walk$ 9 pilgrim g>b along ! pa? betwe5 ! mona/]ies1 :i* are set1 l preci\s /ones 9 a bangle1 9 ! track ( pilgrims r\nd ,kang-r9po*e1 ! f+] :i* po9ts up to ! mighty gods ?ron$ l />s 9 unfa?omable space4 ,f ! highl&s ( ,kham 9 ! remote/ ea/1 f ,naktsang & ,amdo1 f ! unkn[n ,bongba1 :i* we h he>d ( only 9 vague reports1 f ! black t5ts :i* /& l ! spots ( a leop>d scatt]$ among ! dre>y valleys ( ,tibet1 f ,ladak 9 ! m\nta9s ( ! f> we/1 & f ! ,himalayan l&s 9 ! s\?1 ?\s&s ( pilgrims come hi!r annually1 to pace sl[ly & 9 deep m$itation ! #bh miles r\nd ! navel ( ! e>?1 ! m\nta9 ( salvation4 ,i saw ! sil5t procession1 ! fai?ful b&s1 among :i* all ages & bo? sexes are repres5t$1 y\?s & maid5s1 /rong m5 ) wife & *ild1 grey old m5 :o w\ld be=e _! dea? foll[ 9 ! foot/eps ( c\ntless pilgrims to w9 a happi] exi/5ce1 ragg$ fell[s :o liv$ l p>asites on ! *>ity ( ! o!r pilgrims1 sc\ndrels :o _h to d p5ance = a crime1 robb]s :o _h plund]$ peaceful travell]s1 *iefs1 (ficials1 h]dsm51 & nomads1 a v>i$ tra9 ( %ady humanity on ! ?orny road1 :i* aft] int]m9able ages ends 9 ! deep peace ( ,nirvana4 ,augu/ & s]5e ,siva looks d[n f h] p>adise1 & ,hlabs5 f 8 jewell$ palace1 on ! innum]able human be+s bel[ :o circle1 l a/]oids r\nd ! sun1 9 ev] fre% troops1 r\nd ! foot ( ! m\nta91 go+ up ?r\gh ! we/]n valley1 cross+ ! ,dolma pass1 & desc5d+ ! ea/]n valley4 ,we soon discov] t mo/ ( ^! simple pilgrims h no cle> idea ( ! b5efits _! j\rney is suppos$ to conf] on !m4 ,:5 !y are que/ion$1 !y usually answ] t aft] dea? !y w be all[$ to sit ne> ! god ( ,gangri4 ,b :at !y all believe mo/ firmly & ob/9ately is t ! pilgrimage w br+ !m a bless+ 9 ?is _w4 ,x w w>d (f all evil f _! t5ts & huts1 w keep away sickness f _! *ildr5 & h]ds1 protect !m f robb]s1 ?ieves1 & losses1 w s5d !m ra91 good pa/urage1 & increase among _! yaks & %eep1 w act l a talisman1 & gu>d !mselves & _! prop]ty z ! f\r _s k+s protect ! images ( ! temple halls f demons4 ,!y m>* ) light ela/ic /ep1 !y feel nei!r ! icy-cold cutt+ w9d nor ! scor*+ sun2 e /ep is a l9k 9 a *a9 :i* _c be brok5 by ! p[]s ( evil :i* p]secute & torm5t ! *ildr5 ( m54 ,!y />t on _! way f ,t>*5-labrang1 & e new turn 9 ! road br+s !m a /ep ne>] to ! po9t :]e ! r+ closes4 ,& dur+ ! :ole p]egr9ation !y pray ,om mani padme hum1 & e "t ?is pray] is utt]$ !y let a bead ( ! ros>y pass ?r\gh ! f+]s4 ,! /rang] also approa*es ,kang-r9po*e ) a feel+ ( awe4 ,x is incomp>ably ! mo/ fam\s m\nta9 9 ! _w4 ,m\nt ,ev]e/ & ,mont ,blanc _c vie ) x4 ,yet !re are millions ( ,europeans :o h nev] he>d ( ,kang-r9po*e1 :ile ! ,h9dus & ,lamai/s1 all "k ,kailas1 ?\gh !y h no notion :]e ,mont ,blanc lifts up its head4 ,!re=e "o approa*es ! m\nta9 ) ! same feel+ ( respect z "o exp]i5ces 9 ,lhasa1 ,ta%i-lunpo1 ,buddh ,gaya1 ,b5>es1 ,mecca1 ,j]usalem1 & ,rome--^? holy places :i* h attract$ to _! alt>s c\ntless b&s ( s9-burd5$ s\ls & seek]s aft] tru?4 ,our volunte] guide said t he 0 on 8 n9? circuit ( ! m\nta94 ,he took two days to ea*1 & int5d$ to g r\nd ?irte5 times4 ,he call$ ! track ,kang-kora1 ! ,gangri circle4 ,_m ye>s be=e1 he _h p]=m$ ! m]itori\s feat call$ gyang*ag-tsallg51 :i* consi/s 9 measur+ ! l5g? ( ! way by ! l5g? ( ! pilgrim's body4 ,"o su* pilgrimage is wor? ?irte5 ord9>y circuits on foot4 ,my pilgrimage 0 ( no value at all1 because ,i 0 rid+1 ! old man said2 ,i mu/ g on foot if ,i wi%$ to d]ive any b5efit f x4 ,illu/ration3 #bgb4 ,gulam ,razul beside ,bales ( ,*9ese ,brick-,tea4 ,:5 we came a second "t to ,diri-pu "s days lat]1 we saw two "y lamas engag$ 9 ! pro/ration pilgrimage r\nd ! m\nta94 ,!y 7 f ,kham1 & f t "p ( ! c\ntry :]e ! la/ m5 dwell1 & _h be5 a ye> on ! way to ,kailas4 ,!y 7 poor & ragg$1 & _h no?+ to c>ry1 = !y liv$ on ! alms ( ! fai?ful4 ,!y _h come 9 n9e days f ,t>*5 to ,diri-pu1 & reckon$ t !y _h /ill elev5 days to f9i% _! r\nd4 ,i accompani$ !m = half an h\r on foot to obs]ve _! proc$ure4 ,?is consi/$ ( six movem5ts4 ,suppose ! "y lama /&+ on ! pa? ) 8 =ehead held slightly d[n & 8 arms hang+ loosely at 8 sides1 7#a7 ,he places ! palms ( 8 h&s toge!r & raises !m to ! top ( 8 head1 at ! same "t b5d+ 8 head a little d[n2 7#b7 he lays 8 h&s "u 8 *91 lift+ up 8 head aga92 7#c7 he kneels ^u ! gr\nd1 b5ds =w>ds & lays himself full l5g? on ! gr\nd ) out/ret*$ arms2 7#d7 he passes 8 h&s laid toge!r ov] 8 head2 7#e7 he /ret*es 8 "r h& =w>ds z f> z x w rea*1 & scrat*es a m>k 9 ! soil ) a piece ( bone1 :i* %[s ! l9e :i* mu/ be t\*$ by 8 toes at ! next advance2 & 7#f7 he raises himself up ) 8 h&s1 makes two or ?ree /rides up to ! m>k1 & repeats ! same actions4 ,& ?us he goes r\nd ! :ole m\nta94 ,x is sl[ "w & !y d n hurry2 !y p]=m ! :ole bus9ess ) composure1 b !y lose _! brea?1 especially on ! way up to ! pass4 ,& on ! way d[n f ! ,dolma-la !re are places s /eep t x mu/ be a gymna/ic feat to lie d[n head =emo/4 ,"o ( ! "y monks _h already accompli%$ "o r\nd1 & 0 n[ on ! second4 ,:5 he _h f9i%$1 9 twelve days1 he int5d$ to betake himself to a mona/]y on ! ,tsangpo & be !re immur$ = ! re/ ( 8 life4 ,& he 0 only tw5ty ye>s old6 ,we1 :o 9 our sup]ior wisdom smile at ^! exhibitions ( fanaticism & self-mortification1 ought to comp>e our own fai? & convictions ) !irs4 ,! life beyond ! grave is hidd5 f all peoples1 b religi\s conceptions h clo!d x 9 diff]5t =ms among diff]5t peoples4 ,if ?\ looke/ closely1 ?\ wilt see t hope1 ! *ild ( heav51 po9ts e mortal ) trembl+ h& to ! obscure heights4 ,:atev] may be our own convictions1 we mu/ admire ^? :o1 h[ev] errone\s _! views may be 9 our op9ion1 yet possess fai? en\gh to remove m\nta9s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,om ,,mani ,,padme ,,hum ,,*apt] ,,lii ,,om ,,mani ,,padme ,,hum ,n[ beg9s ! la/ v /eep zigzag 9 ! tr\blesome pa? among %>p or r\nd grey b\ld]s ( e =m & size1 a cone ( blocks ) /eps 9 x4 ,dung-*apje is ! "n ( a r\nd wall ( /one1 9 ! mid/ ( :i* is a small] b\ld]1 conta9+ 9 a holl[ depression a r\nd /one l ! cleft ho( ( a wild yak4 ,:5 ! fai?ful pilgrim passes ?is spot1 he takes ?is /one1 /rikes x aga9/ ! bottom ( ! holl[ & turns x once r\nd l a pe/le4 ,consequ5tly ! holl[ is be+ con/antly deep5$1 & "o day x w be l[]$ "r ?r\gh ! block4 ,we m\nt up a ridge ) brooks fl[+ on bo? sides4 ,on e rock1 :i* has a top at all level1 small /ones are pil$ up1 & _m ( ^! pyramidal heaps are pack$ s closely t !re is no room = ano!r /one4 ,?anks to ^! cairns ! pilgrim c f9d 8 way 9 sn[/orm & fog1 ?\gh )\t !m he c\ld n easily f9d x 9 sun%9e4 ,at l5g? we see be=e u a gigantic b\ld]1 its cubical cont5ts am\nt+ p]haps to #g1jjj or #aj1jjj cubic feet2 x /&s l an enorm\s mile/one on ! saddle ( ,dolma-la1 :i* atta9s ! trem5d\s height ( #ah1eii feet4 ,on ! top ( ! block small] /ones are pil$ up into a pyramid support+ a pole1 & f its end cords decorat$ ) rags & /ream]s are /ret*$ to o!r poles fix$ 9 ! gr\nd4 ,horns & bones1 *iefly %\ld]-blades ( %eep1 are "h deposit$ 9 l>ge quantities--gifts ( homage to ! pass1 :i* is suppos$ to m>k ! half-way po9t ( ! pilgrimage4 ,:5 ! pilgrim arrives "h1 he sme>s a bit ( butt] on ! side ( ! /one1 plucks out a lock ( 8 own hair & pla/]s x into ! butt]4 ,?us he has (f]$ up "s ( himself & "s ( 8 belong+s4 ,consequ5tly ! /one resembles a huge wig-block1 f :i* black locks ( hair flutt] 9 ! w9d4 ,9 "t x w\ld be completely cov]$ ) ,tibetan hair1 7 x n t ! locks occasionally fall (f & are bl[n away by ! w9d4 ,tee? are /uck 9 all ! *9ks ( ! ,dolma block1 =m+ :ole ros>ies ( human tee?4 ,if y h a loose too?1 d$icate x to ! spirits ( ! pass4 ,ts]+ un=tunately 0 too?less1 or he w\ld gladly h con=m$ to ?is regulation4 ,heaps ( rags lie all ar\nd1 = ! pilgrim has always a sp>e %r$ to hang on a /r+ or lay at ! foot ( ! block4 ,b he n only gives1 b also takes4 ,our old man took a rag f ! heap & _h a l>ge quantity ( su* relics r\nd 8 neck1 = he _h tak5 "o f e cairn4 ,! view is gr&1 ?\gh ,kailas itself is n visible4 ,b "o c see ! %>p black ridge ly+ q close on ! s\? side ) a mantle ( sn[ & a hang+ glaci]1 its blue m>g9 cut (f p]p5dicul>ly at ! small mora9e lake on ! ea/]n side ( ! pass4 ,:ile ,i sat at ! foot ( ! block1 mak+ obs]vations & draw+ ! panorama1 a lama came /roll+ up lean+ on 8 /ick4 ,he c>ri$ a book1 a drum1 a dor*e1 & a bell1 & likewise a sickly-look+ *ild 9 a basket on 8 back4 ,! p>5ts1 nomads 9 ! valley bel[1 _h giv5 him tsamba = two days to c>ry ! *ild r\nd ! m\nta91 :]eby x w\ld recov] its heal?4 ,_m pilgrims ga9 _! livelihood by su* s]vices1 & "s make ! pilgrimage only = ! b5efit ( o!rs4 ,! lama ) ! *ild compla9$ t he _h only made ! circuit ( ! m\nta9 ?ree times1 & did n possess money en\gh to g r\nd ?irte5 times4 ,i gave him alms4 ,!n he sat d[n on ! pass1 turn$ 8 face 9 ! direction :]e ! summit ( ,kang-r9po*e 0 hidd51 plac$ 8 h&s toge!r1 & *ant$ an int]m9able succession ( pray]s4 ,aft] ?is he w5t up to ! block & laid 8 =ehead on ! gr\nd--h[ _m times ,i d n "k1 b he 0 /ill at x :5 we desc5d$ among b\ld]s to ! t9y r\nd lake ,tso-kavla4 ,we foll[$ its nor!rn %ore1 & our old fri5d told me t ! ice nev] breaks up4 ,b "t slips away & we mu/ ha/5 on4 ,we walk1 slide1 & scramble d[n /eep slopes :]e x w\ld be easy to tumble d[n head ov] heels4 ,! old man is sure-foot$1 & ^! slopes are old acqua9tances4 ,b woe betide him if he turn$ r\nd & w5t 9 ! rev]se direction4 ,at l5g? we rea* ! ma9 valley1 call$ 9 its upp] "p ,tselung1 & 9 its l[] ,lam-*yk]4 ,?r\gh ! l>ge valley1 :i* ent]s ! ma9 valley on ! "r side1 & is call$ ,k&o-sanglam1 we n[ look ea/w>ds ^u ! highe/ p9nacle ( ! summit ( ,kailas1 :i* has a %>p edge t[>ds ! nor?-ea/1 & /ill looks l a cry/al4 ,at two manis erect$ side by side we pass ! bord] ( ! granite & ! conglom]ate1 :i* n[ appe>s aga94 ,! fur!r we proce$ ! m num]\s are ! b\ld]s ( ?is k9d ( rock1 :ile ^? ( granite at l5g? occur no m4 ,we m>* s\?-we/ & biv\ac on ! ro( ( ! mona/]y ,tsumtul-pu4 ,all day long1 at all ! cairns & all ! re/+-places1 ,i h he>d no?+ b an endless murmur ( ! words ,om mani padme hum1 & n[1 z long z ,i am awake1 ,om mani padme hum s\nds 9 my e>s f all nooks & corn]s4 ,! temple _h no o!r curiosity b a /atue ( ,duk ,ngavang ,gyamtso1 #e feet high1 sitt+ z at a writ+-desk1 two n v l>ge elephant's tusks1 & a five-bran*$ *&eli] f ,lhasa4 ,our visit1 !re=e1 did n la/ long1 & we rode d[n ! valley 9 :i* ! riv] gradually increas$ 9 size4 ,"h1 too1 manis & *hort5s are erect$1 & at ! end ( ! valley1 :]e aga9 numb]s ( granite b\ld]s are accumulat$1 we see once m ,langak-tso & ! gr& ,gurla gr\p4 ,illu/ration3 #bgc4 ,,tibetan ,,t5t4 ,illu/ration3 #bgd4 ,,mona/]y ,,( ,,g>-,,gunsa4 ,illu/ration3 #bge4 ,,images ,,at ,,*u%ut4 ,at ,t>*5-labrang we rea*$ ! t]m9ation ( ! pilgrimage4 ,"h tw5ty-?ree t5ts 7 pit*$1 & we receiv$ ! greate/ att5tion1 7 refre%$ ) milk & *ang1 & re/$ two h\rs4 ,!n we left ! pilgrim road to ! "r1 & came into sight ( ! f\r? mona/]y1 p]*$ high up on a t]race 9 ! valley bel[ ! holy peak4 ,a curi\s local w9d at ! nor?-we/ corn] ( ,langak-tso rais$ up cl\ds ( du/ l ! smoke ( a burn+ t[n4 ,a %ort :ile aft]1 we lay peacefully among our m5 9 ! camp on ! ,khaleb moor4 ,by ?is pilgrimage r\nd ! holy m\nta91 :i* ,i _h be5 able to accompli% by an unexpect$ lucky *ance1 ,i _h ga9$ an insight into ! religi\s life ( ! ,tibetans4 ,x _h also be51 z x 71 a revisal ( all ! exp]i5ces ,i _h already collect$ 9 ?is connection4 ,our k ( ,tibet is /ill defective1 & "s future travell] w f9d suffici5t mat]ial to %[ on a map ( ! :ole ,lamai/ic _w all ! great pilgrim r\tes to innum]able sanctu>ies4 ,on su* a map num]\s roads w\ld conv]ge1 l ! spokes ( a :eel1 to ,da ,kur51 ! temple ( ,maid>i 9 ,urga4 ,/ill clos] w\ld ! rays f e inhabit$ spot ( ! imm5se t]ritory ( ,lamaism run toge!r to _! *ief focus1 ,lhasa4 ,some:at less ?ickly !y w\ld unite at ,ta%i-lunpo4 ,innum]able w9d+ roads & pa?s w\ld />t f ! f>!/ bord] c\ntries ( ,tibet1 all t5d+ t[>ds ! holy ,kailas4 ,we "k t !y exi/1 & no great imag9ation is requir$ to conceive h[ !y w\ld look on a map4 ,b x is ) ! r\tes ( pilgrims j z ) ! flight ( ! wild-geese3 we "k no?+ ( _! precise c\rse4 ,besides1 among ! pr9cipal foci are scatt]$ a numb] ( small] c5tres :5ce radii div]ge to a sanctu>y1 a lake1 or a spr+1 & f ! he>t ( all ^! w9d-roses peals out a cry to ! fai?ful1 simil> to ! exhortation ( ,isaiah3 ,look ^u ,zion1 ! city ( our solemnities3 ?9e eyes %all see ,j]usalem 7,isa4 xxxiii4 #bj74 ,9 ! e>s ( ! ,tibetan ano!r say+ r+s1 ! my/ical =mula ,om mani padme hum1 n only on 8 w&]+s to ! goal ( 8 pilgrimage1 b ?r\gh\t 8 life4 ,conc]n+ ?is ,waddell makes1 among o!rs1 ! foll[+ rem>ks3 ,om-ma-ni pad-me ,hum1 :i* lit]ally means ',om6 ,! ,jewel 9 ! lotus6' ,hum6--is address$ to ! ,bodhisat ,padmapani1 :o is repres5t$ l ,buddha z seat$ or /&+ )9 a lotus-fl[]4 ,he is ! patron-god ( ,tibet & ! controll] ( metempsy*osis4 ,& no wond] ?is =mula is s popul> & con/antly repeat$ by bo? ,lamas & laity1 = its m]e utt]ance is believ$ to /op ! cycle ( re-bir?s & to convey ! recit] directly to p>adise4 ,?us x is /at$ 9 ! ,mani-kah-bum ) extravagant rhapsody t ?is =mula 'is ! ess5ce ( all happ9ess1 prosp]ity1 & k1 & ! great means ( deliv]ance1' = ! ,om closes re-bir? among/ ! gods1 ma among ! ,titans1 ni z a man1 pad z a bea/1 me z a ,tantalus1 & ,hum z an inhabitant ( hell4 ,& 9 keep+ ) ?is view ea* ( ^! six syllables is giv5 ! di/9ctive col\r ( ^! six /ates ( re-bir?1 namely3 ,om1 ! godly :ite2 ma1 ! ,titanic blue2 ni1 ! human yell[2 pad1 ! animal gre52 me1 ! ',tantalic' r$2 & ,hum1 ! helli% black 7,! ,buddhism ( ,tibet1 #adh-i74 ,kpp5 & ,grnw$el translate ! f\r words3 ,o1 ,jewel 9 ! lotus-fl[]1 ,am54 ,:]ev] "o turns 9 ,tibet1 he sees ! six sacr$ *>act]s engrav$ or *isell$ out1 & he>s !m repeat$ ev]y:]e4 ,!y are f\nd 9 e temple 9 hundr$s ( ?\s&s ( copies1 nay1 9 millions1 = 9 ! great pray] mills !y are /amp$ 9 f9e lett]s on ?9 pap]4 ,on ! mona/]y ro(s1 on ! ro(s ( private h\ses1 & on ! black t5ts1 !y are inscrib$ on ! flutt]+ /ream]s4 ,on all ! roads we ride daily pa/ wall-l /one ci/s cov]$ ) slabs1 on :i* ! =mula ,om mani padme hum is c>v$4 ,seldom does ! mo/ lonely pa? lead up to a pass :]e no cairn is erect$ to rem9d ! w&]] ( 8 dep5d5ce all 8 life long on ! influ5ce ( good & bad spirits4 ,& on ! top ( e su* lhato or lhadse is fix$ a pole or a /ick ) /ream]s1 e "o proclaim+ 9 black lett]s ! et]nal tru?4 ,at project+ rocks cubical *hort5s or lhatos /& beside ! road 9 r$ & :ite4 ,on ! sides ( granite rocks poli%$ smoo? by w9d & wea!r figures ( ,buddha are frequ5tly cut1 & bel[ !m1 z well z on fall5 b\ld]s1 c be read 9 gigantic *>act]s ,om mani padme hum4 ,on ! pi]s betwe5 :i* *a9 bridges are /ret*$ ov] ! ,tsangpo or o!r riv]s1 heaps ( /ones are pil$ up1 & on all ^! innum]able votive cairns lie yak skulls & crania ( wild %eep & antelopes4 ,into ! horns & ! blea*$ frontal bones ( ! yak ! sacr$ =mula is cut1 & ! incis$ *>act]s are fill$ 9 ) r$ or "s o!r holy col\r4 ,we f9d !m aga9 9 innum]able copies & 9 _m =ms1 especially on ! high-roads :i* lead to temples & pilgrims' resorts1 z well z at all places :]e !re is dang]1 z on m\nta9 passes & riv] =ds4 ,& ev5 ! f]ry boats ( hide are decorat$ ) bless$ /ream]s4 ,9 e c>avan "o man at lea/1 & usually sev]al1 has a pray]-mill 9 8 h&4 ,?is is rotat$ by means ( a weight r\nd ! axle ( ! h&le1 & is /uff$ full ( pap] /rips be>+ ! holy =mula 9 _m ?\s&s ( impressions4 ,all day long1 :atev] ! duration ( ! j\rney1 ! believ] turns 8 pray]-mill & babbles 9 *ant+ tones ,om mani padme hum4 ,! militia :o are call$ out to cat* a robb] b& h on _! ride m confid5ce 9 _! pray]-mills ?an 9 _! guns & sabres1 &1 sad to say1 !re are "s ev5 among ! robb]s :o rattle (f _! ,om & ,hum 9 ord] to make _! escape4 ,among ! escorts :i* accompani$ me on v>i\s occasions !re 7 always "o or two horsem5 arm$ ) a mani ma*9e4 ,"o always sees ?is conv5i5t pray+ in/rum5t 9 ! h&s ( ! p "o meets4 ,! h]dsman murmurs ! six syllables beside 8 h]d1 8 wife :5 milk+ ! %eep1 ! m]*ant z he goes to m>ket1 ! hunt] z he /alks ! wild yak on untrodd5 pa?s1 ! nomad :5 he sets out to move 8 t5t to ano!r pa/ure1 ! artisan z he b5ds ov] 8 "w4 ,) ^! words ! ,tibetan beg9s 8 day1 & ) !m on 8 tongue he lies d[n to re/4 ,! ,om & ,hum are n only ! ,alpha & ,omega ( ! day1 b ( 8 :ole life4 ,! my/ic words rang con/antly 9 my e>s4 ,i he>d !m :5 ! sun rose & :5 ,i blew out my light1 & ,i did n escape !m ev5 9 ! wild]ness1 = my own m5 murmur$ ,om mani padme hum4 ,!y belong to ,tibet1 ^! words2 !y are insep>able f x3 ,i _c imag9e ! sn[-capp$ m\nta9s & ! blue lakes )\t !m4 ,!y are z closely connect$ ) ?is c\ntry z buzz+ ) ! bee-hive1 z ! flutt] ( /ream]s ) ! pass1 z ! ceaseless we/ w9d ) its h[l+4 ,! life ( ! ,tibetan f ! cradle to ! grave is int]wov5 ) a multitude ( religi\s precepts & cu/oms4 ,x is 8 duty to contribute 8 mite to ! ma9t5ance ( ! mona/]ies & to ! ,pet]'s p5ce ( ! temples4 ,:5 he passes a votive cairn he adds a /one to ! pile z an (f]+2 :5 he rides by a mani1 he nev] =gets to guide 8 /e$ to ! left ( x2 :5 he sees a holy m\nta91 he nev] omits to lay 8 =ehead on ! gr\nd 9 homage2 9 all important und]tak+s he mu/1 = ! sake ( 8 et]nal salvation1 seek ! advice ( monks le>n$ 9 ! law2 :5 a m5dicant lama comes to 8 door he nev] refuses to give him a h&ful ( tsamba or a lump ( butt]2 :5 he makes ! r\nd ( ! temple halls1 he adds 8 contribution to ! collection 9 ! votive b[ls2 & :5 he saddles 8 horse or loads a yak1 he aga9 hums ! ev]la/+ ,om mani padme hum4 ,m frequ5tly ?an an ,ave ,m>ia or a ,pat]no/] 9 ! ,ca?olic _w1 ,om mani padme hum =ms an accompanim5t to ! life & w&]+s ( humanity ov] half ,asia4 ,! b\ndless vi/a op5$ out by ! six holy syllables is ?us express$ by ,edw9 ,arnold 9 ! conclud+ l9es ( 8 poem1 ,! ,light ( ,asia3 ,! dew is on ! lotus4 ,rise1 ,great ,sun6 ,& lift my leaf & mix me ) ! wave4 ,om mani padme hum1 ! sunrise comes4 ,! dewdrop slips into ! %9+ sea4 ,illu/ration3 #bgf4 ,,! ,,policem5 ,,f ,,simla4 ,illu/ration3 #bgg4 ,,my ,,boat ,,on ,,! ,,indus4 ,illu/ration3 #bgh4 ,,ladaki ,,wom54 ,,*apt] ,,liii ,,! ,,discov]y ,,( ,,! ,,s\rce ,,( ,,! ,,indus ,imm$iately on my arrival 9 ,khaleb ,i told ! old gova1 :o _h ! hopeless & ?ankless task ( wat*+ my proce$+s1 t ,i n[ int5d$ to take ! road pa/ ,s+i-kabab1 or ! s\rce ( ! ,indus4 ,if y g ?i!r1 ,bombo1 he answ]$1 ,i %all at once s5d a c\ri] to ! ,g>puns1 ! two *iefs 9 ,g>tok4 ,i d n ?9k t ! ,g>puns w h any objection to my tak+ a m nor!rly r\te4 ,oh yes1 ! ,g>puns receiv$ ord]s f ,lhasa five days ago to wat* c>efully t y foll[$ no o!r way b ! great high-road to ,g>tok4 ,! ,g>puns /raightway s5t c\ri]s to twelve diff]5t places--,p>ka1 ,miss]1 ,purang1 ,s+tod1 & o!rs--to make x kn[n t y 7 n p]mitt$ to travel on byroads4 ,if ?is lett] _h n rea*$ me1 ,i w\ld will+ly h let y m>* nor?w>ds1 b n[ ,i d>e n = my own sake4 ,:at w\ld y d if ,i quietly disappe>$ "o night8 ,i c buy yaks 9 ,t>*51 & !n ,i %all n be dep5d5t on ^? ,i h f y4 ,yes1 ( c\rse4 ,a man lives 9 ,t>*5 :o has sixty yaks1 & w sell !m z soon z he sees silv] money4 ,b ,i %all at once s5d ^w to ! ,g>puns1 & !y w s5d m5 aft] y & =ce y to come back4 ,to buy yaks w\ld !re=e be useless wa/e ( money4 ,h[ev]1 if y l to let ! ma9 "p ( y\r c>avan foll[ ! high-road1 & make y\rself an excursion ( a c\ple ( days nor?w>ds to ! ,s+i-kabab1 & !n jo9 y\r c>avan aga91 ,i w put no ob/acles 9 y\r way4 ,b y d x at y\r own risk1 & y w mo/ c]ta9ly be caught be=e y rea* ! s\rce ( ! ,indus4 ,i 0 z mu* a/oni%$ z delight$ by ?is sudd5 *ange 9 ! attitude ( ! gova1 & arrang$ ) ,rob]t t he %\ld lead ! ma9 c>avan 9 v %ort day's m>*es to ,g>tok1 :ile ,i made z rapidly z possible = ! s\rce ( ! ,indus4 ,i took only z _m ?+s z a small lea!rn trunk w\ld conta91 & z companions only five m51 among !m ,rabsang z int]pret] & ,adul z cook1 ) our own six animals & ?ree dogs1 "o ( :i*1 a new pur*ase1 ran away on ! fir/ day4 ,i _h ,rob]t's small t5t1 & our ars5al consi/$ ( two guns & a revolv]1 = robb]s 7 said to make ! c\ntry v unsafe4 ,i c\ld n f9d a guide1 b on ! way to ,diri-pu1 :]e ,i encamp$ once m1 ,i came across an old man f ,tok-jalung1 :o wi%$ to make ! r\nd ( ,kailas ?irte5 times1 & gave me mu* valuable in=mation4 ,b no money c\ld induce him to accompany u f>!r4 ,on ! #h? we cont9u$ our way ?r\gh ! valley t runs nor?-nor?-ea/w>ds f ,diri-pu to ! ,tseti-la4 ,! /ream1 divid$ into _m arms1 0 cov]$ 9 ! night by a ?9 coat+ ( ice1 smoo? z glass1 :]e ! wat] _h run (f1 b x disappe>$ :5 day came4 ,! valley is broad1 & ! road %[$ traces ( consid]able traffic1 ?\gh we did n meet a s\l4 ,! m>mots :i/l$ 9 front ( _! holes2 ! summ] w\ld soon be ov] = !m4 ,kang-r9po*e c be se5 f _m places1 & "h pilgrims f ! nor? h pil$ up cairns4 ,granite pr$om9ates ev]y:]e1 b cry/all9e s*i/s occur "h & !re4 ,we foll[$ ! fre% tracks ( ?ree horsem54 ,! gradi5t became /eep] & ! sc5]y assum$ m ( an alp9e "*4 ,we m\nt$ up among huge cones ( detritus ) babbl+ brooks ( melt$ sn[ to ! pass1 :i* lay at a height ( #ah1dfe feet4 ,its plateau is s+ul>ly flat4 ,on its nor!rn side camp ,no4 #bcd 0 pit*$4 ,9 ! ev5+ ,rabsang report$ t our fuel-ga!r]s _h he>d :i/les1 & t ^! signals _h be5 answ]$ f ! o!r side4 ,! m5 believ$ t !re 7 robb]s "h1 & did n d>e to sit outside by ! fire le/ !y %\ld be good m>ks = %ots out ( an ambu%4 ,i quiet$ !m ) ! assurance t no robb] w\ld v5ture to attack a ,european1 b gave ord]s to ! wat*m5 to keep an eye on our animals4 ,! night pass$ quietly & ! m9imum temp]ature w5t d[n to #af4b2 autumn 0 come aga9 into dre>y ,tibet4 ,i _h suppos$ t ! ,tseti-la 0 ! pass on ! ma9 divide1 b we _h n gone f> :5 we saw its brook1 :i* fl[$ nor?w>ds1 make a b5d to ! we/1 & desc5d ?r\gh a well-def9$ valley to ! ,dunglung4 ,x !re=e belongs to ! cat*m5t bas9 ( ! ,sutlej & n to ! ,indus1 & ! ,tseti-la is a pass ( second>y ord]4 ,b we soon rea*$ ! actual pass1 an extremely flat ?re%old4 ,"h lies a small muddy lake dra9$ by a brook issu+ f its ea/]n side1 :i* we foll[$ all day4 ,?is pass is ! ,tseti-la*5-la1 & x is a wat]-p>t+ betwe5 ! ,sutlej & ! ,indus4 ,its height is less ?an t ( ! ,tseti-la1 = x is only #ag1icc feet2 x lies on ! ma9 *a9 ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,kailas1 !re=e1 lies a good day's j\rney s\? ( ! wat]%$ ( ! two riv]s1 & belongs entirely to ! bas9 ( ! ,sutlej4 ,f ! lake we foll[ ! little afflu5t ( ! ,indus nor?w>ds4 ,! gr\nd is m>%y & r\gh4 ,"h & !re are se5 ?ree he>?/ones4 ,a dead horse lies among ! luxuriant grass4 ,x is s+ul> t no nomads are encamp$ "h4 ,at l5g? we see at a f> di/ance q d[n 9 ! valley m5 go+ d[n/ream ) l>ge flocks ( %eep4 ,tundup ,sonam & ,i%e are s5t aft] !m1 & by degrees ! re/ ( u come up ) ! p>ty4 ,!y are nomads f ,g]tse1 :o h tak5 salt to ,gyanima & are n[ transport+ b>ley on _! #ejj %eep4 ,all ! valley is dott$ ov] ) :ite %eep1 :i* trip along actively1 pluck+ ! grass z !y g4 ,9 front ( u rises a /eep purple m\nta9 *a91 & along ! flank turn$ t[>ds u ! ,indus is said to fl[4 ,we jo9$ ! m5 ( ! %eep c>avan & camp$ toge!r ) !m4 ,!re 7 five ( !m1 all arm$ ) guns1 & !y said t ! di/rict 0 frequ5tly haunt$ by robb]s1 :o at times seem$ to vani% altoge!r1 & !n sudd5ly came d[n l a :irlw9d1 & no "o knew :5ce !y came4 ,our camp+-gr\nd on ! bank ( ! ,indus 7#af1ffc feet7 is call$ ,s+i-buk4 ,ea/w>ds ! valley is broad & op51 b ! ,indus itself is "h an insignificant /ream4 ,i 0 !re=e n a/oni%$ :5 ,i he>d t x 0 only a %ort day's j\rney to ! s\rce1 :i*1 ,i 0 told1 does n proce$ f sn[ or a glaci]1 b spr+s up out ( ! gr\nd4 ,! m5 call$ ! riv] ! ,s+i-tsangpo1 or ,s+i-kamba1 & ! s\rce itself ,s+i-kabab1 ?\gh we aft]w>ds he>d ! ^w pron\nc$ ,s5ge m frequ5tly ?an ,s+i4 ,x turn$ out t "o ( ! five m5 knew all ab\t u4 ,he 0 a bro!r ( ! ,lobsang ,ts]+ on ! ,dungtse-tso :o _h sold u ?ree yaks ! w9t] be=e 7see ,*apt] ,,xv474 ,x 0 a s+ul> *ance t we %\ld fall 9 ) him4 ,he said he _h he>d h[ well we _h treat$ 8 bro!r1 & (f]$ u 8 s]vices--= a good rew>d1 ( c\rse4 ,z he _h travell$ sev]al times ?r\gh ?is region1 q unkn[n to ,europeans1 & 0 acqua9t$ ) all ! passes1 roads1 & valleys1 ,i ?\ght he w\ld be v valuable to me1 & ,i propos$ to give him #g rupees a day1 t is ab\t half a mon?'s pay ( "o ( my ,ladakis4 ,( c\rse he accept$ ! t]ms at once & soon became our intimate fri5d4 ,b ^! bus9ess matt]s 7 n yet settl$4 ,! man _h a quantity ( %eep & b>ley4 ,he cons5t$ to let u eight %eep on hire1 & sell u _! loads1 :i* w\ld la/ our horses = a week4 ,he 0 to receive a rupee = ! hire ( ea* %eep1 :i* 0 high1 = a %eep is wor? only #b to #c rupees4 ,! old man w\ld !re=e receive #ah rupees e ev5+ z long z he 0 ) u2 b x 0 *eap aft] all1 = ! discov]y ( ! s\rce ( ! ,indus 0 involv$4 ,illu/ration3 #bgi1 #bhj1 #bha4 ,,at ,,! ,,mona/]y ,,door ,,9 ,,ta%i-,,gang ,,betwe5 ,,g>tok ,,& ,,ladak4 ,! l>ge %eep-c>avan _h already />t$ on ,septemb] #aj1 :5 we1 ) our new guide1 ^: own tsamba 0 c>ri$ on a n9? %eep1 foll[$ 9 its track4 ,aft] an h\r's m>* we cross$ a tribut>y1 ! ,lungdep-*u1 :i* comes f a valley 9 ! s\?-ea/1 ) flatti% m\nta9s 9 ! backgr\nd4 ,a little f>!r up ! ,s+i-kamba exp&s into a bas9 conta9+ an abundance ( m$ium-siz$ fi%4 ,z we pass$1 ! fi% 7 d>t+ up/ream 9 compact %oals1 & pass$ a v %all[ place ) slight swirls4 ,"h ,rabsang attack$ !m1 b all 8 cat* 0 only "o small mis]able fi%4 ,!n we ?rew up a dam by ! bank1 ) an op5+ on "o side1 & ! m5 w5t into ! wat] & drove 9 ! fi% ) %\ts & spla%+4 ,!n ! entrance 0 built up4 ,aft] we _h repeat$ ?is div]sion ?ree times1 we _h procur$ ?irty-sev5 f9e fi%1 & ,i 0 eag] = my d9n]1 :i* ,i usually look$ =w>d to ) "s loa?+1 = ! h>d dri$ mutton _h become ?or\ghly di/a/eful to me4 ,our old man1 :o sat & wat*$ u1 ?\ght t we _h tak5 leave ( our s5ses4 ,f>!r up1 ! fi% 7 s cr[d$ 9 a quiet pool t !y made ! wat] seem almo/ black ) _! d>k backs4 ,we rode up ! valley1 leav+ on our "r a r$1 loaf-%ap$ m\nta9 call$ ,lungdep-n+ri4 ,opposite1 on ! nor!rn side ( ! valley1 7 se5 two f9e ,ovis ,ammon %eep fe$+ on a conical elevation4 ,!y bore spl5did horns1 & c>ri$ _! heads royally4 ,!y soon p]ceiv$ u1 & made sl[ly up ! slope4 ,b !y paid too mu* att5tion to our movem5ts1 & did n notice t ,tundup ,sonam1 ) 8 gun on 8 back1 0 mak+ a det\r to /alk !m f ! o!r side ( ! hill4 ,aft] a :ile we he>d a %ot1 & a good h\r lat]1 :5 ! camp 0 pit*$1 ,tundup came back lad5 ) z mu* ( ! fle% ( 8 victim z he c\ld c>ry4 ,?us we obta9$ a fre% addition to our some:at scanty rations1 & ,tundup's exploit enhanc$ ! glory ( ?is memorable day4 ,9 ! ev5+ he w5t (f aga9 to fet* m meat1 & he br\ght me ! head ( ! wild %eep1 :i* ,i wi%$ to pres]ve z a mem5to ( ! day at ! s\rce ( ! ,indus4 ,! gr\nd rises exce$+ly sl[ly4 ,s+i-yra is a rugg$ cliff to ! nor?1 ) a l>ge hole ?r\gh its summit4 ,s+i-*ava is ! "n ( a comm&+ em95ce to ! s\?4 ,!n we wade ?r\gh ! outfl[ ( ! ,munjam valley runn+ 9 f ! s\?-ea/4 ,above ?is ! ,indus is only a t9y brook1 & "p ( its wat] comes f a valley 9 ! s\?-ea/1 ! ,bok>4 ,a little lat] we camp at ! ap]ture ( ! spr+1 :i* is s well conceal$ t x might easily be ov]look$ )\t a guide4 ,f ! m\nta9s on ! nor!rn side a flatti% cone ( detritus1 or1 m correctly1 a slope be/rewn ) rubbi%1 desc5ds to ! level1 op5 valley4 ,at its foot projects a slab ( :ite rock ) an almo/ horizontal b$d+1 und]nea? :i* sev]al small spr+s well up out ( ! gr\nd1 =m+ we$y ponds & ! s\rce /ream1 :i* we _h trac$ upw>ds1 & :i* is ! fir/ & upp]mo/ ( ! headwat]s ( ! mighty ,indus4 ,! f\r l>ge/ spr+s1 :]e !y issu$ f ! gr\nd1 _h temp]atures ( #dh4f1 #di4a1 #di4f1 & #ej4d respectively4 ,!y are said to emit ! same quantity ( wat] 9 w9t] & summ]1 b a little m aft] ra9y seasons4 ,up on ! slab ( rock /& ?ree tall cairns & a small cubical lhato conta9+ votive pyramids ( clay4 ,& bel[ ! lhato is a quadrangul> mani1 ) hundr$s ( r$ flag/ones1 "s cov]$ ) f9e close inscriptions1 "s be>+ a s+le "* #bj in*es high4 ,on two ! :eel ( life 0 incis$1 & on ano!r a div9e image1 :i* ,i c>ri$ (f z a s\v5ir ( ! s\rce ( ! ,indus4 ,our guide said t ! s\rce ,s+i-kabab 0 rev]5c$ because ( its div9e orig94 ,:5 travell]s rea*$ ?is place or any o!r "p ( ! upp] ,indus1 !y scoop$ up wat] ) _! h&s1 drank ( x1 & spr9kl$ _! faces & heads ) x4 ,illu/ration3 #bhb4 ,,danc+ ,,wom5 ,,9 ,,*u%ut1 ,a ,,village ,,on ,,my ,,way ,,back ,,to ,,ladak4 ,?r\gh ! inve/igations made by ,montgom]ie's pundits 9 ! ye> #ahfg x 0 kn[n t ! ea/]n arm ( ! ,indus is ! actual headwat]1 & ,i _h aft]w>ds an opportunity ( prov+ by measurem5t t ! we/]n1 ,g>tok1 /ream is consid]ably small]4 ,b no pundit _h succe$$ 9 p5etrat+ to ! s\rce1 & ! "o :o _h advanc$ ne>e/ to x1 namely1 to a po9t #cj miles f x1 _h be5 attack$ by robb]s & =c$ to turn back4 ,consequ5tly1 until our "t ! errone\s op9ion prevail$ t ! ,indus _h its s\rce on ! nor? flank ( ,kailas1 &1 ?anks to ^? admirable robb]s1 ! discov]y ( ! ,indus s\rce 0 res]v$ = me & my five ,ladakis4 ,we pass$ a memorable ev5+ & a memorable night at ?is important geographical spot1 situat$ #af1idf feet above sea-level4 ,"h ,i /ood & saw ! ,indus em]ge f ! lap ( ! e>?4 ,"h ,i /ood & saw ?is unpret5ti\s brook w9d d[n ! valley1 & ,i ?\ght ( all ! *anges x mu/ und]go be=e x passes betwe5 rocky cliffs1 s++ its ro>+ song 9 ev] m p[]ful cresc5do1 d[n to ! sea at ,k>a*i1 :]e /eam]s load & unload _! c>goes4 ,i ?\ght ( its re/less c\rse ?r\gh we/]n ,tibet1 ?r\gh ,ladak & ,balti/an1 pa/ ,sk>du1 :]e ! apricot trees nod on its banks1 ?r\gh ,d>di/an & ,kohi/an1 pa/ ,pe%aw>1 & across ! pla9s ( ! we/]n ,panjab1 until at la/ x is swall[$ up by ! salt waves ( ! ocean1 ! ,nirvana & ! refuge ( all we>y riv]s4 ,"h ,i /ood & wond]$ :e!r ! ,mac$onian ,alex&]1 :5 he cross$ ! ,indus #bbjj ye>s ago1 _h any notion :]e its s\rce lay1 & ,i revell$ 9 ! consci\sness t1 except ! ,tibetans !mselves1 no o!r human be+ b myself _h p5etrat$ to ?is spot4 ,great ob/acles _h be5 plac$ 9 my way1 b ,provid5ce _h secur$ = me ! triumph ( rea*+ ! actual s\rces ( ! ,brahmaputra & ,indus1 & asc]ta9+ ! orig9 ( ^! two hi/orical riv]s1 :i*1 l ! claws ( a crab1 grip ! highe/ ( all ! m\nta9 sy/ems ( ! _w--! ,himalayas4 ,_! wat]s are born 9 ! res]voirs ( ! firmam5t1 & !y roll d[n _! floods to ! l[l&s to yield life & su/5ance to fifty millions ( human be+s4 ,up "h :ite mona/]ies /& peacefully on _! banks1 :ile 9 ,india pagodas & mosques are reflect$ 9 _! wat]s2 up "h wolves1 wild yaks1 & wild %eep1 roam ab\t _! valleys1 :ile d[n bel[ 9 ,india ! eyes ( tig]s & leop>ds %9e l gl[+ coals ( fire f ! jungles t skirt _! banks1 & poison\s snakes wriggle ?r\gh ! d5se bru%wood4 ,"h 9 dre>y ,tibet icy /orms & cold sn[falls la% _! waves1 :ile d[n 9 ! flat c\ntry mild breezes :isp] 9 ! cr[ns ( ! palms & mango trees4 ,i seem$ to li/5 "h to ! beat+ ( ! pulses ( ^! two r5[n$ riv]s1 to wat* ! indu/ry & rivalry :i*1 ?r\gh untold g5]ations1 h occupi$ unnumb]$ human lives1 %ort & transitory z ! life ( ! midge & ! grass2 all ^? w&]]s on ! e>? & gue/s 9 ! abodes ( "t1 :o h be5 born beside ! fleet+ curr5t ( ^! riv]s1 h drunk ( _! wat]s1 h drawn f !m life & /r5g? = _! fields1 h liv$ & di$ on _! banks1 & h ris5 f ! %elt]$ fre$om ( _! valleys up to ! realms ( et]nal hope4 ,n )\t pride1 b /ill ) a feel+ ( humble ?ankfulness1 ,i /ood !re1 consci\s t ,i 0 ! fir/ :ite man :o _h ev] p5etrat$ to ! s\rces ( ! ,indus & ,brahmaputra4 ,,*apt] ,,liv ,a ,,resolution ,f ! s\rce ( ! ,indus we travell$ on nor?-ea/w>ds ) our fri5dly guide to a locality call$ ,yumba-mats51 :i* lies 9 lat4 #cb ,n4 ,& !nce ,i betook myself to ,g>tok1 ! *ief t[n ( we/]n ,tibet & ! resid5ce ( ! two ,g>puns1 :]e ,i arriv$ aft] _m adv5tures on ,septemb] #bf1 hav+ cross$ ! ,trans-,himalaya = ! fif? "t by ! ,jukti-la 7#ai1aaa feet high74 ,i mu/1 alas6 omit a description ( ?is j\rney = ! pres5t1 ?\gh x pass$ = ! mo/ "p ?r\gh unkn[n c\ntry4 ,mr4 ,calv]t cross$ ov] ! ,jukti-la two ye>s be=e4 ,9 ,g>tok 7#ad1fef feet7 a new p]iod began4 ,?is t[n is a turn+-po9t 9 ! *ronicles ( my j\rney4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 ,i aga9 came into contact ) ! out] _w4 ,?akur ,jai ,*&1 ! ,briti% comm]cial ag5t1 h&$ me imm$iately on my arrival a ?ick packet ( lett]s1 includ+ a quantity f my de> home1 & o!rs f ,"l & ,lady ,m9to & _! daught]s1 f ,colonel ,dunlop ,smi?1 ,y\nghusb&1 ,o',connor1 ,rawl+1 & _m o!r fri5ds 9 ,europe & ,asia4 ,no?+1 h[ev]1 0 he>d ( ! heavy consignm5t ,i expect$ f ,simla4 ,b soon aft]w>ds ,i he>d f ,dunlop ,smi? t all ,i _h ord]$ 0 on ! way & w\ld arrive 9 due c\rse1 & meantime ,i _h to wait 9 pati5ce4 ,! ,g>puns at once s5t me pres5ts z a tok5 ( welcome1 ) ! usual polite phrases4 ,!y 7 ( too great importance to visit me fir/1 s next day ,i w5t to !m4 ,! eld] 0 ill2 ! y\ng]1 a g5tleman f ,lhasa1 ?irty-five ye>s ( age & ( di/+ui%$ appe>ance1 receiv$ me mo/ cordially 9 8 simple ,gov]nm5t build+s1 & 0 s little angry at ! lib]ties ,i _h rec5tly tak5 t he did n ev5 ask me :]e ,i _h be54 ,x 0 an irony ( fate t a lett] 9 mo/ fri5dly t]ms & mo/ lib]al 9 its concessions1 :i* ,i n[ receiv$ f ,li5 ,d>9 by ! h& ( ! ,g>pun1 _h n rea*$ me until x 0 too late4 ,:5 ,li5 ,d>9 receiv$ my lett] f ,raga-tasam1 he imm$iately s5t (f two ,*9am5 fully au?oriz$ to come to an agreem5t ) me ab\t ! r\te ,i 0 to take4 ,= ,i %all be glad to "k1 said ! ,amban ( ,lhasa1 t y are travell+ by ! road t suits y4 ,he 0 q conv9c$ t my movem5ts1 :i*ev] way ,i took1 w\ld give no cause = political complications4 ,& he conclud$ ) ! words3 ,n[1 ,i hope t y w h a successful & peaceful j\rney1 & ,i w pray = y\r heal? & prosp]ity4 ,h[ ,i regrett$ n[ t ,i _h n /ay$ 9 ,saka1 & s mu* ! m :5 ! ,g>pun told me t ! two ,*9am5 _h arriv$ ) an escort ( f\r ,tibetans only two weeks aft] we _h left6 ,b ! ,g>pun 0 fri5dly dispos$ t[>ds me2 he 0 ! mo/ p[]ful man 9 we/]n ,tibet1 & c\ld /ill ?r[ op5 all doors = me1 if he d>$ & 0 will+ to d s4 ,illu/ration3 #bhc4 ,,old ,,woman4 ,illu/ration3 #bhd4 ,,lama ,,9 ,,*u%ut4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,i 01 inde$1 pleas$ & ?ankful = ! results :i* ,i _h already be5 able to secure4 ,besides _m o!r problems t _h be5 solv$1 ,i _h cross$ ! ,trans-,himalaya by five passes1 namely1 ! ,sela-la1 ,*ang-la-,pod-la1 ,angd5-la1 ,tseti-la*5-la1 & ,jukti-la1 ( :i* ! fir/ f\r _h be5 entirely unkn[n4 ,b betwe5 ! ,angd5-la & ! ,tseti-la*5-la ,i _h be5 oblig$ to leave a gap ( q #ccj miles 9 ! exploration ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,( ?is region no?+ 0 kn[n b ! summits ,ryd] _h se5 f 8 r\te1 & :i* he & ,wood _h measur$ by obs]vation4 ,we also possess$ "s unc]ta9 /atem5ts ( ,na9 ,s+'s j\rney 9 #ahgc1 b 8 r\te lay to ! nor? ( ! blank pat*1 & ?is blank repres5t$ an area ( #ecjj squ>e miles4 ,i c\ld n return home )\t hav+ done all t 0 humanly possible to trav]se ! unkn[n c\ntry by at lea/ "o r\te4 ,precisely !re 0 ! l9e =m+ ! wat]%$ betwe5 ! ,indian ,ocean & ! inl& dra9age ( ! salt lakes on ! ,tibetan plateau4 ,!re _m lakes & riv]s might be expect$ to exi/1 & !re lay ! l>ge prov9ce ( ,bongba1 ( :i* s _m hazy reports _h rea*$ our e>s f its nor!rn1 ea/]n1 & s\!rn b\nd>ies4 ,b ! greate/ & mo/ important "q ( all 03 ,does ! ,ni5-*5-tang-la run "r ?r\gh ,tibet 9 a we/]ly & nor?-we/]ly direction to ! nor? ( ! ,tsangpo & ! upp] ,indus8 ,no ,european & no pundit _h hi!rto v5tur$ on ?is problem2 b ,hodgson1 ,saund]s1 & ,atk9son _h _m ye>s be=e laid d[n a hypo!tical range on _! maps ( ,tibet4 ,did x actually exi/8 ,or 0 a labyr9? ( ranges hidd5 "u ! :ite space1 or a comp>atively flat plateau1 on :i* f\ndation isolat$ sn[y peaks & *a9s 7 bas$8 ,hypo!ses are absolutely wor?less comp>$ to prov$ facts4 ,su* facts ,i w\ld procure4 ,i knew t if ,i did n succe$ n[ 9 p5etrat+ into ! c\ntry :i* on ! late/ ,engli% map ( ,tibet 7#aijf1 ,map #a7 be>s only ! ^w ,unexplor$1 "o f9e day ano!r explor] w\ld come & rob me ( ?is triumph4 ,& ?is ?\ght ,i c\ld n endure4 ,9 ,g>tok my old fri5d f ,leh1 ! ri* m]*ant ,gulam ,razul1 0 /ay+ 7,illu/4 #bgb74 ,i consult$ him1 & he 0 to be my deliv]+ angel4 ,he took a v sangu9e view ( our position1 = ! ,g>pun ow$ him #gjjj rupees = goods deliv]$1 & fe>$ 8 influ5ce2 he c\ld !re=e put pressure on ! ,vic]oy ( we/]n ,tibet4 ,he fir/ tri$ /ratagem1 :i*1 h[ev]1 completely fail$1 = ! ,g>pun repli$ he 0 too fond ( 8 head to expose x to risk by assi/+ a ,european :o _h no p]mission to travel ab\t ! c\ntry4 ,!n we tri$ gold1 b ! ,g>pun answ]$ mo/ !atrically3 ,if ?is h\se 7 ( gold & y (f]$ x to me1 ,i w\ld n take x4 ,if y travel on =bidd5 roads1 ,i w s5d arm$ m5 aft] y :o w =ce y to return hi!r4 ,he 0 incorruptible1 & he 0 too /rong = u4 ,h[ sorry ,i 0 n[ t ,i _h n proce$$ ea/w>ds :5 ,i 0 9 enjoym5t ( complete fre$om at ! s\rce ( ! ,indus & 9 ,yumba-mats56 ,b no1 t 0 impossible1 = my ca%-box 0 !n n full en\gh1 ,i _h only five m5 ) me1 & ,i c\ld n h left ! re/ ( my c>avan to _! own devices4 ,:at if ,i w5t d[n into ,nepal & came back aga9 into ,tibet by ungu>d$ roads8 ,no1 t w\ld n d1 = sn[ w\ld soon close ! ,himalayan passes4 ,& if we tri$ to sl9k ?r\gh to ,rudok & !nce make ea/w>ds8 ,no1 ,rudok sw>m$ ) spies4 ,& soon ,gulam ,razul le>n$ also t ! ,g>pun _h s5t ord]s ?r\gh\t 8 t]ritory to /op me 9 case ,i attempt$ to travel ev5 to ,ladak by any o!r ?an ! ma9 high-road4 ,?us we plann$ ?is & t1 & mus$ day & night1 sometimes 9 my t5t1 sometimes 9 ,gulam ,razul's1 & wait$ = ! consignm5t f ,simla1 he>d bells j+le :5 c\ri]s came f ! ea/1 saw "o m]*ant aft] ano!r return f ! fair 9 ,lhasa1 met ! s]pun or gold commission] :o came f ,tok-jalung1 & felt ! cold ( autumn cut our sk9s m %>ply z ! !rmomet] fell to -#aa4 ,!n 9 lonely h\rs ,i came to ! resolution to return to ,ladak & !nce1 z 9 ! ye> be=e1 p5etrate into ,tibet f ! nor?1 trav]se ! :ole c\ntry once m1 & cross ! blank space4 ,i knew v well t by ?is r\ndab\t way x w\ld take half a ye> to rea* di/ricts situat$ only a mon?'s j\rney f ,g>tok4 ,a new c>avan w\ld be necess>y1 new dang]s & adv5tures await$ u1 & w9t] 0 be=e u ) its ,arctic cold4 ,b x mu/ be done 9 spite ( ev]y?+4 ,i w\ld n turn back until ! ob/acles 9 my way became q insup]able4 ,to ent] ,ladak1 a c\ntry "u ,briti% protection1 0 a risk1 & !re=e ,i mu/ make all ha/e to cross ! fronti] aga94 ,i c\ld n avoid ,rawl+'s & ,deasy's c\ntry1 b :at did x matt]8 ,my aim 0 ! unkn[n region1 :i* ,i w\ld try to explore by "s r\te or o!r4 ,gulam ,razul & ,rob]t 7 ! only ones :o 7 initiat$ into my new plans1 = 9 !m ,i c\ld place ! bl9de/ confid5ce4 ,dur+ our conf]5ces we spoke 9 ,p]sian1 & ,rob]t kept a wat* t no eavesdropp] came ne> my t5t4 ,gulam ,razul und]took to get toge!r ! new c>avan f ,leh1 & x 0 to rea* at a c]ta9 "t ,drugub1 :]e ,i meant to dismiss my la/ ?irte5 m52 !y 7 worn-out & long$ to get home4 ,gulam ,razul und]took ! responsibility ( f9d+ me fre% m54 ,on ,octob] #bj we left ,g>tok to await 9 ,g>-gunsa ! arrival ( ! consignm5t f ,india4 ,gulam ,razul1 ,?akur ,jai ,*&1 ! po/ma/] ,d5i ,das1 & ! doctor ,mohanlal1 also mov$ ?i!r4 ,rob]t _h he>d 9 ,g>tok ! sad news t 8 eld] bro!r _h di$ 9 ,fur!r ,india1 & n[ he receiv$ a fre% bl[1 = 8 little bro!r1 t5 ye>s old1 _h be5 dr[n$ 9 ,sr9ag>4 ,he 0 inconsolable1 & begg$ me to let him g home to 8 "m1 :o _h n[ only "o son left4 ,s ,i 0 to lose him also4 ,gulam ,razul _h ?ree l>ge t5ts )9 8 f5ce ( b\ghs 7,illu/4 #bed74 ,!re he sat l a pa%a on 8 divan1 smok$ a l>ge silv] n>ghil1 & receiv$ 8 gue/s ) ,ori5tal dignity4 ,he 0 jovial & agreeable1 und]took to d ev]y?+1 & ?\ght no?+ ( difficulties4 ,!re we made our plans & long li/s ( ?+s to be b\ght1 & z my arrival 9 ,ladak c\ld n be kept secret = long1 we spread ! report t ,i want$ a new c>avan = a j\rney to ,khotan1 & t ,i int5d$ to travel to ,pek9 9 ! spr+4 ,= ! success ( ! plan x 0 ess5tial t no "o %\ld h any suspicion ( my real int5tions2 = 9 t case1 especial ord]s w\ld be s5t to ,rudok & to ! nomads4 ,my own s]vants & all ,hajji ,naz] ,%ah's h\sehold believ$ !re=e t x 0 my settl$ purpose to g to ,khotan1 & t ,i _h giv5 up all ?\ghts ( ,tibet4 ,i ev5 w5t s f> z to s5d a telegram f ,drugub to ,reut]'s correspond5t 9 ,india1 my fri5d ,mr4 ,buck1 ) ! in=mation t ,i 0 ab\t to make a %ort j\rney to ,khotan4 ,! object 0 to mislead ! m&>9s4 ,if no "o else w\ld help me1 ,i mu/ help myself1 &1 if necess>y1 ) cunn+ & trick]y4 ,none ( my ,indian fri5ds mu/ h any suspicion ( my real plans1 n ev5 ,colonel ,dunlop ,smi?2 x w\ld1 ( c\rse1 be silly to put !m 9 a position :]e !y mu/ ei!r betray me or be disloyal to _! own sup]iors4 ,except ,gulam ,razul & ,rob]t1 only my p>5ts & si/]s 7 let into ! secret4 ,b1 un=tunately1 ,i _h giv5 !m a f> too optimi/ic e/imate ( ! l5g? ( my ent]prise1 & !re=e :5 !y he>d no news !y became day by day m uneasy1 & at la/ came to ! conclusion t ,i _h come to grief 7,illu/4 #bcd74 ,on ,octob] #bi1 #aijg1 ,gulam ,razul's mules arriv$1 & 7 subject$ to a ?or\gh inspection4 ,!y 7 9 spl5did condition--small1 /urdy1 & sleek animals f ,lhasa1 accu/om$ to r>efi$ air1 &1 accord+ to ! own]1 capable ( endur+ h>d%ips ( e k9d4 ,gulam ,razul ev5 (f]$ to buy !m back at ! price ,i paid1 if !y return$ alive4 ,i paid = all ! tw5ty #aghj rupees4 ,i /ill possess$ five ( my own animals1 aft] a small :ite mule _h be5 torn to pieces by wolves 9 ,g>tok4 ,a :ole pack _h attack$ our la/ six animals1 ! camp wat*man _h be5 unable to drive ! wolves away1 & ! mule _h be5 horribly w\nd$4 ,he _h be5 se5 runn+ be=e ! wolves ) 8 entrails trail+ on ! gr\nd4 ,! la/ mule f ,poon* /ill surviv$1 z well z my little ,ladaki grey & "o ( 8 fell[s1 ! vet]ans ( ,leh4 ,illu/ration3 #bhe4 ,,on ,,! ,,way ,,to ,,tankse4 ,illu/ration3 #bhf4 ,,9 ,,! ,,indus ,,valley ,,on ,,! ,,way ,,to ,,ladak4 ,illu/ration3 #bhg4 ,,! ,,new ,,horses ,,& ,,mules ,,at ,,drugub4 ,gulam ,razul also und]took to procure = me fifte5 excell5t horses f ,ladak at a price ( #aejj rupees4 ,! o!r pur*ases consi/$ (3 b>ley = ! animals1 #fj rupees2 rice1 #gj rupees2 tsamba1 #abe rupees2 prov5d] sacks1 #fj rupees2 clo!s = ! new m51 #aeb rupees2 butt]1 #hj rupees2 tea1 #ej rupees2 /e>9 c&les & sug>1 #ajd rupees2 a ,lhasa sk9 coat = myself1 #dj rupees2 & a sleep+-bag ( s(t goatsk91 also = myself1 #be rupees2 9 addition !re 0 ! hire ( ! pack animals :i* convey$ my baggage to ,leh1 #dj rupees1 & ! co/ ( transport+ ! newly pur*as$ goods f ,leh to ,drugub1 #bj rupees4 ,elev5 m5 7 to be enli/$ 9 ,leh1 all hav+ s]v$ 9 ,hajji ,naz] ,%ah's comm]cial h\se & kn[n z hone/ respectable p4 ,!y 7 to receive #ae rupees a mon? ea*1 ?\gh _! usual wages _h n be5 m ?an #ab1 & ?ree mon?s' pay 9 advance4 ,! c>avan ba%i 0 to receive #ej rupees a mon? & be select$ ) v great c>e4 ,my :ole debt to ,gulam ,razul am\nt$ to ne>ly #ejjj rupees1 = ^? :o _h _h ! tr\ble ( mak+ all ^! pur*ases 7 to receive a d\ceur ov] & above4 ,i s5t a note ( h& to ,colonel ,dunlop ,smi?1 ) directions t ?is sum %\ld be paid to ,gulam ,razul1 9 ord] t he might h security if ,i did n return f ?is j\rney4 ,on ,octob] #cj ,gulam ,razul s5t 8 son to ,leh to equip ! new c>avan1 :i* 0 to rea* ,drugub1 ready 9 all p>ticul>s1 on ,novemb] #cj4 ,= ! valuable s]vices r5d]$ me on ?is occasion ,gulam ,razul aft]w>ds receiv$ f ,h4,m4 ,k+ ,gu/af ( ,sw$5 ! gold m$al = di/+ui%$ s]vice1 & ,i recomm5d$ him to ! ,indian ,gov]nm5t = ! title ( hon\r1 ,khan ,bahadur2 ( c\rse ,i bas$ my appeal 9 ?is case on ! great comm]cial s]vices he _h r5d]$ to ! ,indian ,empire4 ,9 ,g>-gunsa ,i he>d news ( a new treaty betwe5 ,great ,brita9 & ,russia1 :i* _h be5 conclud$ 9 ,octob] ( ?is ye>4 ,great ,brita9 & ,russia b9d !mselves n to all[ any sci5tific exp$ition ( any k9d :atsoev] to ent] ,tibet = ! next ?ree ye>s )\t previ\s agreem5t1 & call ^u ,*9a to act simil>ly 7,illu/4 #bgd74 ,x seem$ z ?\gh ?is clause 7 especially design$ to meet my case4 ,i said n a ^w to ,gulam ,razul ab\t x4 ,b ,i saw t ,i c\ld no long] travel 9 ,tibet z a ,european4 ,la/ ye> ,i _h be5 successful :5 ! political situation 0 /ill unsettl$1 b ,i _h taught bo? ! ,*9ese & ,tibetans a lesson1 & %[n !m t x 0 possible = a ,european to travel "r across ! c\ntry4 ,i _h also plac$ a weapon 9 _! h&s aga9/ me4 ,i %\ld n be able to manage x a second "t4 ,n[ !y w\ld keep _! eyes op5 along ! p]iph]y ( ! inhabit$ c\ntry4 ,i mu/ travel 9 disguise to attract z little att5tion z possible4 ,ano!r c\ri] 0 !re=e s5t to ,leh to procure me a complete ,ladaki co/ume 9 ,mohamm$an fa%ion4 ,gulam ,razul also 0 ( op9ion t1 consid]+ all circum/ances1 x w\ld be wise/ to travel z a m]*ant4 ,! new c>avan lead] 0 to be our ma/]1 :ile ,i myself %\ld figure z ! lea/ ( 8 s]vants1 & keep myself out ( sight 9 all negotiations4 ,! :ole affair 0 a desp]ate game1 a political & diplomatic game ( *ess1 ! /akes be+ my own life or great geographical discov]ies4 ,i1 :o _h hi!rto /ood on ! mo/ fri5dly & confid5tial t]ms ) ! ,tibetans1 mu/ n[ avoid !m z enemies4 ,i %\ld n be able to see any ,tibetan face to face1 & %\ld h to conceal my own eyes 9 ord] n to be caught4 ,!re=e a l>ge pair ( r\nd goggles ) d>k glasses 0 b\ght2 inside !m ,i fa/5$ poli%$ glasses ( ! /r5g? suit$ to my sight4 ,my ,european outfit 0 re/rict$ z mu* z 0 at all possible2 ! l>ge cam]a & ! boat 7 s5t to ,leh ) my o!r baggage1 & ,i took ) me only a small ,ri*>d's cam]a4 ,! ma9 po9t 0 t 9 inhabit$ di/ricts ,i %\ld conduct myself ) ,ori5tal self-control & be entirely passive4 ,! outcome ( ?is mad plan 0 to me en%r\d$ 9 imp5etrable d>kness4 ,i only knew t ,i mu/ g nor?w>ds f ,drugub 9 ! direction ( ! ,k>akorum pass1 !n turn to ! ea/ & s\?-ea/1 & endeav\r to cross f ,lem*ung-tso ! blank space ly+ to ! s\? ( ,b[]'s r\te 9 #ahia1 & !nce cont9ue my j\rney ?r\gh ! great blank pat* on ! nor? ( ! upp] ,tsangpo4 ,if ,i 7 successful1 ,i w\ld g s\? to ,india ei!r ?r\gh ,nepal or ?r\gh ,gyangtse1 :]e p]haps ,i might h an opportunity ( meet+ ,major ,o',connor1 z ,i _h always wi%$ to d4 ,gulam ,razul advis$ me to be v cauti\s1 = ! ,rudok-dzong _h a paid spy 9 ,drugub1 :o _h to report on ! movem5ts ( ,europeans on ! ,engli% side ( ! fronti]4 ,?is spy 0 "o ( ! mo/ dang]\s reefs 9 my fairway2 ! suspicion ( ! ,tibetans 0 at once r\s$ :5 !y f\nd t ,i _h b\ght tw5ty mules f ,gulam ,razul4 ,! ,g>pun s5t a mess5g] to f9d out :at ,i want$ !m =4 ,he 0 told t !y 7 = a j\rney to ,khotan4 ,?akur ,jai ,*& _h an excell5t jamad> :om he s5t to meet ! baggage com+ f ,india4 ,at l5g?1 9 ! beg9n+ ( ,novemb]1 we receiv$ news t ! consignm5t 0 com+4 ,!n ,rob]t propos$ to g to meet our wi%$-= gue/s ) "s ( our new mules4 ,late on ! ev5+ ( ! #f? !y all turn$ up :5 ,i 0 already 9 b$4 ,!y 7 five policem5 f ,rampur1 "o ( !m suff]+ f inflammation ( ! lungs & m dead ?an alive4 ,:5 ,rob]t met !m !y 7 s />v$ & exhau/$ t he _h fir/ to massage ! :ole p>ty to put new life into !m 7,illu/4 #bgf74 ,i at once gave ord]s to light a ro>+ fire & s]ve tea4 ,!y came up ) _! lad5 mules1 two ,mohamm$ans1 ?ree ,h9dus--all 9 d>k blue uni=ms ) tall blue-&-:ite turbans1 rifles1 & bayonets4 ,i bade !m welcome1 ?ank$ !m = ! excell5t way 9 :i* !y _h p]=m$ _! task1 & made _! corporal give me an acc\nt ( _! difficult & try+ j\rney ov] ! ,ayi-la4 ,!n !y 7 %[n to sleep+-places 9 a t5t1 & next day ,i look$ ?r\gh ! n9e *e/s s5t to me by ,colonel ,dunlop ,smi?4 ,?ree ( !m conta9$ #fjjj rupees 9 silv]1 all ( ! ,que5's reign1 none ( ! ,k+'s1 = ! ,tibetans w n take rupees on :i* ,k+ ,edw>d's face is /amp$4 ,! o!r boxes conta9$ t9n$ meat ( all k9ds1 pres]ves1 *ocolate1 *eese1 cakes & biscuits2 cig>s1 cig>ettes & tobacco2 gold & silv] wat*es1 & revolv]s ) ammunition1 = pres5ts2 c>tridges = two ( our guns2 note-books & map pap]2 a :ole libr>y ( new novels1 includ+ ,jack ,london's ,! ,call ( ! ,wild--a pres5t f ,o',connor & suitable read+ = ! adv5tur\s "t be=e u2 an anemomet] & a hydromet]1 pres5ts f ! *ief ( ! ,c5tral ,meteorological ,in/itute 9 ,simla1 ,dr4 ,gilb]t ,walk]2 & a ho/ ( o!r necess>y & acceptable articles4 ,! amiable ,colonel1 8 equally amiable si/]1 & 8 daught]1 _h _h no end ( tr\ble 9 select+ & pur*as+ ! ?+s1 pack+ !m up & transmitt+ !m to ,tibet4 ,x 0 ow+ to _! k9dness t ,i 0 able = a long "t to live l a pr9ce1 & ,i _c be suffici5tly grateful to !m4 ,n[ ,i _h no?+ m to wait =4 ,! policem5 7 well paid1 & ,i also bore ! exp5se ( _! return j\rney & gave !m w9t] clo?+2 took a he>ty f>ewell ( my s9c]e fri5d ,gulam ,razul1 )\t ^: help ! new j\rney w\ld h be5 impossible2 ?ank$ ,?akur ,jai ,*& & ! o!r ,h9dus = _! k9dness1 & />t$ (f on ,novemb] #i1 #aijg1 nor?-we/w>ds along ! c\rse ( ! upp] ,indus4 ,on ! #bf? we rea*$ ,tankse1 :]e ! dignit>ies ( ! di/rict & ev5 ! tesild> ( ,leh came to meet u4 ,!y _h already he>d t ,i int5d$ to travel to ,khotan 9 midw9t]4 ,! foll[+ day 0 to be a day ( re/1 = "h ,i 0 to dis*>ge all my old s]vants except ,rob]t & ! ,gurkha1 ,rub ,das4 ,:5 ,i _h breakfa/$1 ,ts]+ c>ri$ out ! plates & di%es1 :i* n[ _h _m *ips out ( _! enamel4 ,?is is ! la/ "t1 ,ts]+1 t y w wait on me4 ,!n ! old man began to weep1 & hurri$ out quickly4 ,!n ,i summon$ all ! m5 to my t5t & made !m a spee*1 tell+ !m t !y _h s]v$ me fai?fully & ob$i5tly1 & _h well e>n$ ! com=t & repose t await$ !m by _! dome/ic he>?s 9 ! bosom ( _! families4 ,i wi%$ !m good =tune & prosp]ity 9 ! future1 & rem9d$ !m ( ! loss we _h all su/a9$ by ! dea? ( ,muham$ ,isa--good old ,muham$ ,isa1 :o1 :5 we 7 la/ at ,tankse1 _h made all arrangem5ts s clev]ly & consci5ti\sly4 ,& to %[ !m t we 7 n ! only ones :o m\rn$ = him1 ,i read !m :at ,y\nghusb&1 ,o',connor1 & ,rawl+ _h writt5 to me ab\t ! deceas$4 ,illu/ration3 #bhh4 ,,rob]t ,,9 ,,w9t] ,,dress4 ,:ile _! five horses & five yaks 7 be+ load$ ) all _! belong+s1 !y came to me 9 my t5t1 "o aft] ano!r1 to receive _! pay & an extra pres5t4 ,ts]+1 ,rehim ,ali1 ,%ukkur ,ali1 & ,tundup ,sonam receiv$ especial gifts ( money1 ! latt] ?ree hav+ expos$ !mselves to dang] on my acc\nt4 ,old ,ts]+ ask$ to be all[$ to keep ! lame dog f ! ,ngangtse-tso2 its b>k be=e 8 hut 9 ,leh w\ld rem9d him ( ! "t :5 ! dog kept wat* at our camp-fires4 ,%ukkur ,ali kept ano!r dog f ! same c\ntry4 ,n[ ,i _h only ! br[n puppy1 :i*1 ) ,rob]t & ! mule f ,poon*1 7 among ! olde/ vet]ans ( ! c>avan1 all ?ree hav+ accompani$ me f ,sr9ag>4 ,& !n came ! bitt] mom5t ( p>t+4 ,s mu* grief1 su* l\d weep+6 ,!y c\ld h>dly te> !mselves away4 ,! tesild> 0 q ov]come at witness+ ! deep atta*m5t ( my simple foll[]s4 ,! bonds 7 /rong t 7 n[ torn asund]1 = !re is no?+ :i* knits m5 toge!r s firmly z common suff]+s & dang]s4 ,i myself felt a cat* 9 my ?roat1 &1 z ! m5 reluctantly foll[$ _! yaks d[n ! road to ,drugub1 ,i /ood & wat*$ !m until !y 7 out ( sight4 ,!n ,i dri$ my eyes be=e go+ into my t5t1 :]e ,rob]t & ! tesild> 7 wait+ = me ) tea & cakes s]v$ up by ,rub ,das4 ,i c\ld n help ?9k+ ( a fun]al repa/ aft] an int]m5t1 at :i* a wrea? ( violets _h be5 laid on ! grave ( a dep>t$ fri5d4 ,next morn+ ,i awoke to new surr\nd+s4 ,all my old companions 7 scatt]$ to ! f\r w9ds1 & n[ !y 7 gone all seem$ empty & des]t$4 ,rob]t read (f ! meteorological in/rum5ts z usual1 & ,rub ,das laid my breakfa/ z noiselessly z an elf4 ,i 0 glad t 9 spite ( ev]y?+ ,i felt n ! slighte/ irresolution4 ,! same angel :o _h protect$ me on my =m] j\rney w\ld aga9 att5d my /eps4 ,i seem$ to he> once m 9 ! di/ance ! ru/le ( 8 w+s 9 ! cold w9t] nights on ! ,*ang-tang4 ,,*apt] ,,lv ,a ,,new ,,*apt] ,z soon z we 7 ready we m\nt$ our horses & rode d[n to ,drugub4 ,soon ! old village came 9 sight ) ! h\se 9 :i* ,i _h dwelt six ye>s be=e1 & ! g>d5 9 :i* we _h halt$ 9 ! ye> #aijf4 ,on a t]race bel[ ! village /ood our ?ree t5ts & a f\r?4 ,! jamad> ,i%e1 old ,hiraman1 :o nev] omitt$ to greet me1 & "y ,anm> ,ju1 ano!r ( my old fri5ds1 salaam$ & pres5t$ to me my new m54 ,^! ?ree _h ord]s f ! tesild> to accompany me to ,%yok4 ,:o is ! c>avan ba%i8 ,i ask$4 ,i am1 answ]$ a little wr9kl$ old man call$ ,abdul ,k]im1 & we>+ a l>ge yell[ sk9-coat 7,illu/4 #bhi74 ,:at are ! names ( ! o!rs8 ,kutus1 ,gulam1 ,su51 ,abdul ,rasak1 ,s$ik1 ,lobsang1 ,kun*uk1 ,gaff>1 ,abdullah1 & ,sonam ,kun*uk4 ,y are !n elev5 m5 altoge!r--?ree ,lamai/s & eight ,mohamm$ans8 ,yes1 ,sahib4 ,i %all at "s future "t take d[n y\r names1 ages1 places ( abode1 ! j\rneys y h made1 ! s]vices y h be5 91 etc4 ,x turn$ out t v few ( !m _h ev] be5 9 ! s]vice ( a ,european1 b all _h be5 employ$ by ,naz] ,%ah1 & 8 son ,gulam ,razul answ]$ = !m4 ,f\r _h be5 9 ,lhasa1 & almo/ all ! ,mohamm$ans 9 ,y>k&1 & all seem$ pleasant & *e]ful1 & 7 9 ! prime ( life4 ,illu/ration3 #bhi4 ,,abdul ,,k]im1 ,,! ,,new ,,c>avan ,,lead]4 ,:i* ( y is my cook8 ,i am1 answ]$ ,gulam1 a comical little fell[1 :o imm$iately receiv$ a lecture f ,rub ,das h[ ,i 0 to be att5d$ on 7,illu/4 #bia74 ,are y all ,ladakis8 ,yes1 ,sahib1 all except ,lobsang1 :o is a ,tibetan f ,g>-gunsa1 b has m>ri$ 9 ,leh & has s]v$ ) ! ,hajji ,naz] ,%ah4 ,i 0 some:at loa? to take a ,tibetan ) me on a j\rney :]e x 0 ess5tial to keep ! ,tibetans z long z possible 9 ! d>k4 ,if dang] ?reat5$1 h[ easily he c\ld betray me to 8 c\ntrym56 ,i consid]$ :e!r ,i w\ld n ex*ange him = ano!r man1 or simply leave him beh9d4 ,b h[ (t5 _h ,i reason subsequ5tly to rejoice t ,i _h n giv5 effect to ! sugge/ion6 ,) ! exception ( ! f\r ,russian cossacks & ,rob]t1 ,lobsang 0 ! be/ s]vant :o ev] accompani$ me on my j\rneys ?r\gh ! wilds ( ,asia4 ,he 0 a spl5did man1 & ,i *]i% a w>m recollection ( him 7,illu/4 #bij74 ,all 7 n[ welcom$ into my s]vice1 & ,i express$ ! hope t !y w\ld p]=m _! duty z fai?fully z _! pr$ecessors1 promis$ !m an extra donation ( #ej rupees ea* if ,i 7 cont5t$ ) !m1 & told !m t ,i w\ld pay ! exp5ses ( _! return home f ! po9t :]e our j\rney end$1 j z ,i _h done be=e4 ,:5 x 0 kn[n 9 ,leh t ,i want$ fre% s]vants = ! j\rney to ,khotan1 ,guff>u & all ! m5 ,i _h s5t home f ,tok*5 pres5t$ !mselves & begg$ e>ne/ly to be re/or$ to my s]vice4 ,b ! old ,hajji _h receiv$ /rict directions f 8 son4 ,n "o ( my old s]vants might accompany me ?is "t1 = x w\ld increase ! dang] if we met ,tibetans ) :om we 7 already acqua9t$4 ,! new horses seem$ f9e & /rong1 & /ood1 eat+ hay & b>ley1 9 a long r[ along a wall1 beside ! mules & ! vet]ans f ,leh4 ,!y 7 to be well f$1 = ! days ( fea/+ w\ld soon be ov]1 & x w\ld be well if !y put on fle%1 on :i* !y c\ld fall back 9 evil days4 ,all ! goods ord]$ 7 ( ! be/ quality1 & pack$ 9 new /rong boxes cov]$ ) lea!r 7,illu/4 #bhg74 ,on ! morn+ ( ,novemb] #bi1 #aijg1 ?ree ,tibetans came f ,rudok-dzong & set up _! t5ts on our left w+4 ,!re1 ,i ?\ght1 n[ espionage is beg9n+4 ,an h\r lat] we he>d ! s\nd ( bells up 9 ! valley4 ,! noise became l\d] & l\d] betwe5 ! cliffs1 & a great d9 0 rais$ z ?irty-f\r f9e little mules ) loads ( salt pass$ by my t5t4 ,all _h a *a9 ( small bells r\nd _! necks1 mo/ ( !m 7 adorn$ ) r$ & blue rib&s1 & "s _h l>ge r$ tassels hang+ at _! *e/s1 :i* almo/ t\*$ ! gr\nd & swung ab\t at e /ep4 ,x 0 a bright & lively sc5e1 & ! j+le ( bells allur$ me out to fre% adv5tures 9 di/ant regions4 ,9 ! tw9kl+ ( an eye ! animals 7 reliev$ ( _! loads & driv5 up ! valley l a h]d ( wild asses1 to graze on ! scanty grass among ! granite4 ,! own]s mu/ !n be trad]s4 ,!y aft]w>ds came into my t5t1 took tea & cig>ettes1 & ask$ ,abdul ,k]im :i!r we 7 travell+4 ,he answ]$ )\t ly+1 ,to ,khotan4 ,x 0 ,i :o li$4 ,b _h ,i told ! tru?1 ,i %\ld h be5 /opp$ 9 f\rte5 days1 & might z well h gone home at once4 ,we _h ?ree new t5ts4 ,! two l>g] accommodat$ my elev5 s]vants2 ! smalle/1 :i* 0 s small t "o c\ld only /& upright "u ! ridge-pole1 & c\ld only hold a b$ & two boxes1 0 m9e4 ,i wi%$ to h "o z small z possible t x might m easily be kept w>m4 ,all my baggage 0 re-pack$4 ,i gave "s sup]flu\s articles to ,rob]t & to ! ,rev4 ,mr4 ,pet] 9 ,leh4 ,!re 0 a v ?or\gh sort+ out1 & only :at 0 absolutely indisp5sable 0 pack$1 fill+ two boxes1 "o ( :i* *iefly conta9$ ,sw$i% & ,engli% books1 s5t by my si/] ,alma & ,colonel ,dunlop ,smi?4 ,z soon z !y 7 read1 !y w\ld be (f]$ to ! w9ds4 ,:5 ,i mov$ at night into my new t5t & laid myself to re/ 9 ! l>ge sleep+-bag l9$ ) %eep's wool1 & cov]$ myself1 ,i 0 z w>m & com=table z 9 a b$ at home4 ,illu/ration3 #bij4 ,,lobsang2 #bia4 ,,gulam2 #bib4 ,,kutus--,,my ,,la/ ,,tru/y ,,foll[]s4 ,gulam ,razul's son1 ,abdul ,hai1 visit$ me1 & our bus9ess matt]s 7 transact$ ) him4 ,rob]t rema9$ responsible = my heavy baggage until he _h deposit$ x 9 ! h\se ( ! ,hajji ,naz] ,%ah4 ,x consi/$ ( t5 regulation horse-loads4 ,9 my leisure h\rs ,i wrote a heap ( lett]s1 :i* ,rob]t 0 to h& 9 at ! po/-(fice 9 ,leh4 ,we _h n[ #ba mules & #ai horses1 ! br[n puppy1 & a l>ge yell[ dog f ,g>tok4 ,all ! mules & horses1 except m9e & ,abdul ,k]im's saddle-horses1 c>ri$ loads 7,illu/s4 #bif1 #big1 #bih74 ,i rode my little :ite ,ladaki1 :i* _h gr[n m>vell\sly /rong aga91 & 0 z spirit$ z "o ( ! new horses4 ,he & two o!rs 7 ! survivors ( ! l>ge c>avan :i* _h1 on ! =m] occasion1 set out f ,leh4 ,9 ord] to make sure t ,abdul ,k]im took suffici5t prov5d]1 ,i told him he mu/ n ?9k t ,i w\ld foll[ ! direct road l ord9>y c>avans4 ,i might make excursions "r & left1 & (t5 rema9 /ation>y = a week at a "t4 ,he mu/1 !re=e1 provide b>ley = ! animals = two-&-a-half mon?s1 & he mu/ take c>e t ! prov5d] we took ) u la/$ out4 ,b x is /upid to tru/ to o!rs4 ,all ! heavy baggage f ,simla1 ! silv] money1 & ! t9n$ provisions made f\r loads2 ,gulam's *e/s ( kit*5 ut5sils1 two2 ! t5t1 ! b$d+1 & ! belong+s ( ! m5 made sev]al loads2 all ! o!r animals 7 to be lad5 ) rice1 b>ley1 & tsamba4 ,we also took #be %eep f ,tankse4 ,9 ! night ( ,decemb] #c ! !rmomet] fell to -#aj4a4 ,next morn+ all ! baggage 0 pack$ up & c>ri$ d[n ! valley to ,%yok by coolies4 ,two fell[s1 z /rong z be>s1 c>ri$ my two t5t-boxes4 ,! animals c>ri$ only _! new saddles4 ,"o gr\p aft] ano!r m>*$ (f1 & at la/ ,i rema9$ alone4 ,!n ,i %ook h&s ) my fai?ful companion1 ,rob]t1 ?ank$ him = 8 invaluable s]vices1 8 hone/y1 8 c\rage1 & 8 pati5ce2 ask$ him to greet = me ! mission>ies1 ,dr4 ,neve1 & w>m ,india2 took leave also ( hone/ ,rub ,das & all ! o!rs2 m\nt$ into my new ,ladak saddle on my tru/y :ite1 & rode d[n to ! ,%yok valley ) ,anm> ,ju4 ,i 0 ! la/ rema9+ ( ! orig9al c>avan1 & 0 surr\nd$ by m5 :o 7 complete /rang]s to me4 ,b ,i 0 also /range to !m1 & !y _h no suspicion ( ! foolh>dy adv5tures ,i int5d$ to lead !m into4 ,! w9d1 h[ev]1 0 ! same1 & ! same />s w\ld tw9kle 9 ! sky dur+ ! cold sil5t nights 9 ,tibet4 ,s ,i %\ld n be q alone4 ,x is little m ?an #f miles to ,%yok1 & yet ?is %ort di/ance took almo/ eight h\rs4 ,we _h to cross ! riv] six times1 :i* j bel[ ! village ( ,drugub has cut a deep n>r[ passage betwe5 rocks ( granite & gneiss4 ,! fir/ cross+ 0 easy1 = !re ! riv] _h be5 froz5 ov] 9 ! night1 & ?\gh ! ice crack$1 we pass$ ov] by a pa? /rewn ) s&4 ,at ! second passage ! riv] 0 op51 b broad & %all[1 & ! ice belts on bo? sides _h be5 /rewn ) s&4 ,! ?ird1 :]e we _h to cross ov] aga9 to ! "r bank1 0 v awkw>d1 because ice belts sudd5ly end+ 9 ! middle 7 flood$ 9 consequ5ce ( a damm+ up ( ! ice l[] d[n4 ,!y c\ld n !re=e be /rewn ) s&1 & we _h to be c>eful le/ we %\ld fall out ( ! saddle :5 ! horses set _! feet d[n 9 ! wat] #c feet deep4 ,x is little m agreeable :5 he jumps up on ! opposite edge1 & 8 ho(s slide ab\t be=e he c get a firm foo?old on ! smoo? ice4 ,bel[ ?is place 0 ! f\r? cross+--! wor/ ( all--& "h ! :ole tra9 _h come to a halt4 ,on ! "r bank1 :]e we /ood1 ! riv] 0 broad & deep1 ) icy cold1 d>k-blue1 transp>5t wat] w9d+ d[n1 b at ! left bank lay a broad belt ( ice4 ,su51 a tall1 black-be>d$ man ) v ,jewi% features1 b>$ 8 body & exam9$ ! =d on horseback4 ,9 s do+ he got into wat] s deep t 8 horse began to swim4 ,!n he jump$ 9 himself & swam to ! edge ( ! ice1 :]e x co/ him great ef=t to climb up4 ,poor man6 ,i %iv]$ z ,i look$ at him2 he _h be5 q "u wat]4 ,illu/ration3 #bic4 ,,begg>s4 ,illu/ration3 #bid4 ,,abdul ,,k]im',s ,,new ,,t5t4 ,f\r ( ! o!rs made an attempt a little high] up1 & got ov]1 b !y 7 up to _! necks 9 wat]4 ,!n ! :ole troop ( mules & horses 7 driv5 into ! riv]2 ! horses manag$ be/4 ,"o mule1 ,i felt sure1 w\ld be lo/4 ,he made no attempt to hoi/ himself on to ! ice until he _h be5 pelt$ ) /ones f our bank4 ,& :5 at l5g? he 0 up & 0 foll[+ ! track ( ! o!rs1 ! ice crack$ & gave way "u him1 & !re he lay enclos$4 ,all five m5 _h to pull him out & drag him ov] ! ice to solid gr\nd4 ,b>ely #ajj y>ds f>!r d[n is ! fif? =d4 ,betwe5 ! two /&s a /eep1 smoo?1 project+ rock1 its foot wa%$ by ! riv]4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 possible to climb ov] ! rock up small fissures & ov] slight projections & ?us avoid ! two dete/able =ds4 ,"h all ! baggage 0 c>ri$ ov] by ! coolies1 & ,i myself climb$ ov] ! rocks b>efoot$2 a %ort way beyond ?is crag a /rong man c>ri$ me ov] smoo? flood$ ice4 ,"h we _h pl5ty ( "t = m$itation1 :ile ! animals 7 aga9 driv5 ?r\gh su* deep wat] t !y almo/ _h to swim4 ,all 7 wet up to ! root ( ! tail & _m _h wat] ov] _! backs4 ,! poor creatures /ood toge!r closely 9 a gr\p1 ) pieces ( ice hang+ f _! flanks & knock+ toge!r l ca/anets4 ,we k9dl$ a fire t ! five m5 :o _h be5 9 ! wat] might undress1 dry !mselves1 & *ange e /it* ( clo?+4 ,!n we w5t "s di/ance d[n/ream to a place :]e ! heavy provisions 7 pil$ up on ! bank1 & ! poor animals _h to ent] ! icy wat] be=e !y _h got w>m aga94 ,"h ! baggage _h to be c>ri$ ov] ! riv] by />k-nak$ m51 :o tri$ ) /aves 9 _! h&s to keep _! equilibrium among ! trea*]\s r\nd$ /ones 9 ! riv] b$4 ,an eld]ly man 0 seiz$ ) cramp :5 he 0 half-way across1 & c\ld n move a /ep4 ,two bold y\?s jump$ into ! wat] & dragg$ him to l&4 ,two mules1 :i* c\ld n be induc$ by coax+ or scold+ to ent] ! wat]1 7 tugg$ ov] ) a rope4 ,i _h a guide be=e my horse1 :i* 0 wet half-way up ! saddle1 s t ,i _h to tuck up my legs z high z possible1 & 9 ?is position x 0 v difficult to keep my balance1 z ! horse made unexpect$ jumps among ! blocks4 ,! m5 rais$ su* a l\d hurrah t ! m\nta9s rang aga9 :5 ,i 0 ov] ! la/ =d ) a :ole sk92 a blaz+ fire prev5t$ any ill effects f my foot-ba?4 ,e man1 :o came across %iv]+1 dripp+1 & blue ) cold1 _h to sit d[n imm$iately by ! fire4 ,i c\ld n und]/& :y !y 7 n froz5 to dea?4 ,!n we rode 9 ! twilight up & d[n hill1 & x 0 pit* d>k be=e a welcome blaz+ fire %[$ u t we 7 ne> ! village ( ,%yok4 ,we ga!r$ r\nd x z we came up1 & delight$ 9 its radiat+ heat4 ,i c\ld n help consol+ myself ) ! ?\ght t1 if any pursu]s foll[$ me up f ! ,engli% side1 !y w\ld at any rate get a cold ba? be=e !y f\nd me4 ,9 ! night ! temp]ature fell to only #ae4d1 b "h we 7 at a height ( only #ab1cfe feet4 ,we /ay$ on ,decemb] #e 9 ,%yok1 to dry ! pack-saddles & give ! animals a day's re/ aft] _! try+ "w4 ,9 ! ev5+ ! m5 held a f>ewell fe/ival1 = ,%yok 0 ! la/ village 9 ,ladak4 ,z soon z ! drums & flutes 7 he>d1 all ! wom5 & girls ( ! c\ntry flock$ to ! dance4 ,on ,decemb] #f we took leave ( our la/ fri5ds1 & m>*$ d[n ! slopes to ! floor ( ! ,%yok valley1 :]e ! altitude is #ab1cjj feet2 x 0 ! l[e/ spot we 7 9 = a long "t 7,illu/4 #cjj47 ,= f "h we m\nt$ nor?w>ds up ! valley excavat$ by ! great afflu5t ( ! ,indus4 ,!re is no road or pa? to speak (1 only rubbi% & r\nd$ b\ld]s1 b ! sc5]y is wond]fully f9e1 & gigantic granite crags t[] up on all sides4 ,we cross$ ! riv] five times1 :i* "h c>ries ab\t #dbj cubic feet ( wat] & has belts ( ice ( v>y+ bread?4 ,a solit>y />v$ w&]] f ,y>k& met u1 & 0 giv5 a meal ( tsamba4 ,we pit*$ our camp among ! bu%es 9 a b$ ( s& at ,*ong-yangal1 :]e ,i _h /ay$ 9 ! ye> #aijb4 ,we 7 n[ alone4 ,only "o man n belong+ to ! c>avan 0 /ill ) u1 ,tubges ( ,%yok1 :o _h *>ge ( our %eep dur+ ! e>ly days ( our j\rney1 especially at ! =ds4 ,9 ! ev5+ ,i _h a conv]sation ) ,abdul ,k]im1 ,kutus1 & ,gulam4 ,i n[ told !m t ,i w\ld n travel to ,khotan by ! ord9>y road1 because ,i knew x already4 ,we w\ld /rike m to ! ea/1 & ! soon] we came up on to ! plateau ! bett]4 ,!y repli$ t ,tubges knew ! c\ntry well4 ,he 0 call$ 9 to ! consultation4 ,:at if we w5t ?r\gh ! ,*ang-*5mo valley to ,pamzal & ! ,lanak-la8 ,no1 he answ]$1 t is impossible2 "o c g z f> z ,oro-rotse1 b !re ! valley becomes z n>r[ z a corridor1 & ice cascades & b\ld]s cov] ! bottom ( ! valley4 ,animals _c get ?r\gh ev5 )\t loads4 ,x 0 !n evid5t t we mu/ cont9ue up ! ,%yok valley & wat* = an opportunity ( div]g+ ea/w>ds4 ,s on ! #g? we w5t on betwe5 gr& m\nta9 gables1 sil5t & solemn1 l ,egyptian pyramids1 l ca!drals & =tress t[]s4 ,betwe5 !m detritus cones desc5d to ! valley floor1 :]e _! bases are erod$ by ! high wat] ( ! summ] flood & cut (f 9 p]p5dicul> walls4 ,x mu/ be a magnific5t spectacle :5 ! turbid ?und]+ wat] rolls d[n f ! melt+ sn[ ( ! ,k>akorum & fills all ! valley1 mak+ its way ) trem5d\s =ce to ! ,indus4 ,an enorm\s block ( p]haps #gj1jjj cubic feet has fall5 d[n2 x has crack$ 9 fall+1 z ?\gh a giant _h split x ) 8 axe2 "o fancies "o c see ! gap x has left on ! heights above4 ,f\r times ! pa? crosses ! /ream1 & ! r n>r[ op5+ ( ! ,*ang-*5mo valley is left on ! "r4 ,we encamp$ among ! dunes ( ,kapt>-khane4 ,9 ! night ! temp]ature fell to #b4e4 ,! way is t]ribly try+1 no?+ b detritus & blocks ( grey granite1 aga9/ :i* ! horses we> out _! %oes4 ,aga9 we cross$ ! riv] twice & set up our t5ts 9 ! oasis ,dung-yeilak1 :]e a worn-out c>avan f ,khotan _h already settl$1 & _h s5t a mess5g] to ,nubra = help1 z sev]al ( _! horses _h f\nd]$4 ,z long z !re 0 pa/urage we c\ld take matt]s quietly & make %ort m>*es4 ,only too soon ! grass w\ld come to an end1 & !n we mu/ make m ha/e4 ,s we re/$ a day :5 ! m]*ant ,muham$ ,rehim f ,khotan arriv$ at ! oasis ) 8 c>avan4 ,b he only rema9$ an h\r1 = he want$ to rea* w>m] regions1 & 0 glad to h ! ,k>akorum pass beh9d him4 ,he e>ne/ly advis$ me to wait till spr+1 = ! sn[ lay deep] ?an usual on ! pass4 ,"o ( 8 c>avan m5 also came to me & gave me a h&ful ( dri$ pea*es4 ,does ! ,sahib rememb] me8 he ask$4 ,c]ta9ly1 y are ,mollah ,%ah4 ,! good fell[1 n[ fifty-sev5 ye>s old1 & ) 8 be>d grey]1 _h nev] visit$ 8 home 9 ,*]*5 aga9 s9ce he _h left my s]vice 9 ! spr+ ( #aijb4 ,:at a s+ul> w&]+ life1 full ( toil & adv5ture1 ^! ,asiatics lead6 ,he implor$ me to engage him aga91 b ,i told him he ought to be glad to g d[n into ,ladak in/ead ( return+ to ! frightful pass 9 ! middle ( ! icy w9t]4 ,x w\ld c]ta9ly h be5 pleasant to h ) me an old tri$ companion4 ,b no1 he w\ld h be5 out ( place 9 my ,ladaki company4 ,mollah ,%ah told u = our enc\ragem5t t a l>ge c>avan _h lo/ fifty-two horses on ! pass1 & _h be5 oblig$ to leave beh9d ! great] "p ( _! goods4 ,none ( my p knew yet my actual plans4 ,z long z we 7 on ! great w9t] r\te to ,ea/]n ,turke/an !y mu/ all believe t ,khotan 0 my de/9ation4 ,we _h also ! advantage t all :o met u w\ld report 9 ,ladak t !y _h se5 u on ! great highway1 & ?us no suspicion w\ld be ar\s$4 ,illu/ration3 #bie4 ,,my ,,br[n ,,puppy ,,) ,,my ,,cook1 ,,ts]+4 #bif1 #big1 #bih4 ,,my ,,:ite ,,ladaki ,,horse4 ,decemb] #aj4 ,x 0 cold]1 ! m9imum temp]ature be+ -#b4d4 ,my ,curzon hat 0 burn$ 9 ! fire4 ,9 its place ,i put on a l>ge sk9-cap :i* ,muham$ ,isa _h sew$ toge!r1 & w\nd r\nd x a pugree z a protection aga9/ ! sun4 ,arms ( ! riv] ) a g5tle curr5t 7 cov]$ ) glitt]+ ice1 b ! ma9 /ream1 n[ mu* small]1 0 ne>ly free4 ,at ! camp at ,*>vak a spr+ brook da%$ d[n ! rocks 9 a t9kl+ cascade1 ?\gh ! cold did all x c\ld to sil5ce x4 ,! animals 7 driv5 up ! slopes :]e ! grass 0 bett]4 ,a huge fire 0 light$ :5 ! day decl9$1 & a n>r[ sickle ( a moon /ood 9 ! sky4 ,:]e ! animals 7 driv5 up1 !re 0 a ?und]+ fall ( /ones 9 ! night1 & "s blocks roll$ d[n & lay among our t5ts4 ,x 0 a dang]\s place4 ,we _h a cold m>* on ! way to ,yulgunluk4 ,:5 ?ick sn[-cl\ds cov] ! sky1 ! w9d bl[s 9 ! travell]'s face1 & ! temp]ature at "o o'clock is #ad4i1 "o feels ! cold dreadfully1 & has to tie a ?ick neck-clo? ov] ! face4 ,! valley is lifeless & des]t$4 ,hi!rto we _h only se5 a h>e1 an eagle1 & a rav52 ! la/ foll[$ u f camp to camp4 ,six times we cross$ ! /ream2 ! br[n puppy 0 c>ri$ ov]1 b ! yell[ dog f\nd 8 way across--he h[l$ pite\sly :5ev] he _h to g into ! cold wat]4 ,9 ,yulgunluk also1 at a height ( #ac1dee feet1 we encamp$ a day4 ,n[ ! !rmomet] fell 9 ! night to -#f4b4 ,?is 0 ! la/ really pleasant & agreeable oasis we came across4 ,dur+ ! day ( re/ we he>d ! horses neigh+ ) satisfaction on ! pa/ures & ! %eep bleat+4 ,! loads ( prov5d] 7 already small]1 s we c\ld load f\r horses ) good knotty firewood4 ,on ! "r side ( ! valley rose a sn[y m\nta94 ,z e>ly z two o'clock ! sun disappe>$1 b x light$ up ! sn[ long aft] ! valley lay 9 deep %ad[2 ! sky 0 blue & cl\dless4 ,9 ! ev5+ ! m5 sang at ! fire j ! same melodies z _! pr$ecessors4 ,! w9t] days are %ort1 b !y seem endlessly long to "o tortur$ by ! unc]ta9ty ( 8 *]i%$ hopes4 ,by eight o'clock ! camp is quiet1 & at n9e ,gulam br+s 9 ! la/ brazi] aft] ,i h read ! meteorological in/rum5ts4 ,h[ ,i long to get out ( ?is conf9$ valley on to ! plateau c\ntry6 ,"h we are m>*+ nor?-nor?-we/1 & ,i ought to be go+ ea/ & s\?-ea/4 ,if we c\ld f9d a way up to ! ,*ang-tang by "o ( ! valleys to ! ea/1 we %\ld be sav$ mu* "t & _m a we>y /ep4 ,on ,decemb] #ac we look$ 9 va9 = su* a way4 ,we cross$ ! riv] twice m on its ice-%eet4 ,at ! second =d ! :ole c>avan pass$ ov] dry-%od1 & only my small :ite horse broke ?r\gh & ,i wet my feet4 ,aft] a ?ird cross+ we camp$ 9 a desolate spot j opposite ! ,%ialung valley4 ,x look$ promis+4 ,tubges & ,kutus 7 s5t up ! valley to spy out ! l&4 ,9 ! ev5+ !y return$ ) ! tid+s t we c\ld g a fairly long di/ance up ! valley1 b beyond x became impassable ow+ to deep bas9s1 abundant ice1 & l>ge b\ld]s1 j z 9 ! ,drugub riv]4 ,we mu/ !re=e keep on ! r\te to ! ,k>akorum pass4 ,?is increas$ ! risks = ! c>avan1 = x l5g!n$ ! di/ance2 b1 on ! o!r h&1 x less5$ ! dang] ( discov]y1 = :5 once we _h got into ,tibet we c\ld avoid ! mo/ nor!rn nomads4 ,n[ ,tubges begg$ p]mission to accompany me to ! end1 & 8 petition 0 eag]ly support$ by all ! o!r m54 ,i 0 ! m will+ to take him t he 0 a skill$ hunt]4 ,i _h n[ twelve m51 & ,i made ! ?irte5? 9 ! c>avan4 ,b we 7 n sup]/iti\s4 ,,*apt] ,,lvi ,,up ,,to ,,! ,,heights ,,( ,,dapsang ,heavy cl\ds & pi]c+ly cold w9d increas$ ! difficulty ( our m>* on ,decemb] #ad up ! valley4 ,we saw two bales ( goods1 sew$ up 9 l95 & ) ! /amp ( a ,turke/an firm1 ly+ on ! gr\nd1 z ?\gh !y _h fall5 f a dy+ horse1 ! c>case ( :i* we _h pass$4 ,high] up two m4 ,!y conta9$ silk5 mat]ials f ,khotan4 ,s f> ! c>avans come ) fail+ /r5g? aft] excessive ex]tions on ! pass4 ,!y are l %ips :i* mu/ ?r[ _! c>go ov]bo>d :5 !y beg9 to s9k4 ,at ,kteklik also we f\nd passable grass & firewood4 ,gulam is a capital cook2 he prep>es me ! mo/ delicate cutlets & rissoles1 & = a *ange gives me *ick5s & eggs4 ,on ! #ae? !re is little wat] 9 ! valley2 x runs "u rubbi%1 b f>!r up ! riv] is aga9 fre% & cle>4 ,we frequ5tly pass ! rema9s ( un=tunate c>avans--dead horses1 bales ( goods1 & pack-saddles f :i* ! hay has be5 remov$ to save ! life ( a dy+ horse4 ,we travel we/-nor?-we/w>ds1 & !re=e ev] f>!r f our goal4 ,b at l5g? we come to a valley :i* w lead u 9 ! "r direction4 ,we leave ! ,sass] valley to ! left & ent] a valley portal full ( trea*]\s ice1 (t5 z ?9 z sk94 ,we wait till our sc\ts h tri$ ! ice1 :i* !y decl>e to be impassable4 ,tubges1 h[ev]1 f9ds ano!r1 long] way1 ov] /eep hills1 & at _! foot we pit* our camp4 ,next morn+ we w5t ov] a /eep spur ( porphyry to rea* a bett] place on ! froz5 riv] :i* 0 to af=d u an ea/]ly passage up to ,murgu4 ,we cross$ aga9 & aga9 ! /rip ( ice1 :i* 0 fir/ /rewn ) s& t ! horses might n break _! legs4 ,z usual1 two sc\ts w5t 9 advance4 ,"o ( !m came back & call$ to u f a di/ance t a fall5 rock clos$ up ! valley4 ,on rea*+ ! spot ,i f\nd t a l&slip _h lately tak5 place4 ,! blocks ( porphyry b>r+ ! *annel 7 z big z h\ses1 & betwe5 !m ! riv] =m$ deep bas9s cov]$ ) a ?9 coat ( ice4 ,we _h !re=e to turn back & retrace our /eps all ! way d[n to camp ,no4 #bgi1 ov] ! t]rible rock1 :i* on ?is side 0 s /eep t ea* animal _h to be %ov$ up sep>ately1 & ! m5 _h to look out = !mselves :5 a pack got loose & roll$ d[n ! acclivity4 ,!n we w5t "s di/ance up ! ,sass] valley4 ,a /rong icy w9d blew 9 our faces4 ,beside a wall ( rock ! dogs put up a h>e :i* took refuge 9 a hole1 b ,kun*uk pull$ him out aga9 & he 0 condemn$ to be eat54 ,our camp ?is "t 0 9 an almo/ b>r5 place1 & aft] all ! =d+ ( ! riv] dur+ ! day icicles cl9k$ on ! flanks ( our we>i$ animals4 ,x is ev5+ aga94 ,! m\nta9 spurs project1 d>k & rugg$1 into ! valley l huge s>cophagi1 & on !m re/ moon-light$ sn[fields l %r\ds4 ,! ,ladakis s+ no m2 _! ditties are froz5 on _! lips4 ,x is awfully quiet4 ,! kit*5 fire flick]s ) yell[i%-r$ tongues 9 ! :ite moon%9e4 ,"o c almo/ he> ! s\nd ( ! fro/ outside4 ,illu/ration3 #bii4 ,,panorama ,,f ,,camp #dbb1 ,,bongba4 ,illu/ration3 #cjj4 ,,panorama ,,f ,,camp #bgg1 ,,%yok ,,valley4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,aft] ,gulam has br\ght 9 ! la/ brazi] ,i undress myself1 put on my l>ge wooll5 dress+-g[n1 set myself a :ile "r ov] ! fire to get a little heat into my body be=e ,i creep into my lair ( fur1 & smile to he> ! yell[ dog1 :o is ly+ outside1 & b>ks & sn>ls at ! increas+ cold 9 ! angrie/ & mo/ comical tones4 ,no wond] he is enrag$1 = ! !rmomet] falls 9 ! night to -#ab4h4 ,!n ,i he> a s+ul> squeak+ 9 ,gulam's t5t4 ,we _h already anticipat$ a happy ev5t1 & n[ ,i inquir$ :e!r !re 0 an addition to ! ,puppy family4 ,f\r small puppies _h aga9 come into ! _w4 ,!y _h wait$ = ! v colde/ night we _h yet exp]i5c$4 ,gulam _h contriv$ a cage ( frieze rugs 9 :i* ,puppy lay1 lick+ h] "y ones4 ,two ( ! t9y animals 7 ( ! female1 two ( ! male sex2 ! =m] 7 dr[n$1 = we ?\ght t ! o!rs w\ld gr[ /rong] if !y monopoliz$ all ! milk & heat t w\ld o!rwise h be5 divid$ among f\r4 ,i sat by ! hut* & /udi$ ! int]e/+ gr\p till ,i 0 s /iff ) cold t ,i c\ld h>dly walk back to my t5t4 ,next morn+ ! t9y curs 7 go+ on spl5didly2 "o ( !m :9$ 9 q ! or?odox fa%ion1 & no d\bt ?\ght :at a grim cold c\ntry fate _h laun*$ him into4 ,we det]m9$ to take good c>e ( !m1 = !y w\ld be pleasant companions = me4 ,up "h !y w\ld at any rate be immune f ! sickness :i* _h c>ri$ (f _! eld] si/]s4 ,kun*uk _h to c>ry !m aga9/ 8 b>e sk9 to keep !m w>m4 ,half-way ,mamma ,puppy 0 all[$ to occupy h]self = a :ile ) h] little ones1 ?\gh ^! did n seem q to und]/& ! milk bus9ess4 ,we _h a bad m>* on ,decemb] #ag4 ,no %\ts ( enc\ragem5t 7 he>d1 b ! c>avan mov$ on sl[ly & apa!tically4 ,)9 half an h\r our feet 7 b5umb$ & lo/ all feel+4 ,i w\nd ! ends ( my ba%lik l a visor sev]al times r\nd my face up to ! eyes1 b ! brea? turn$ x into a ?ick cru/ ( ice :i* froze to my m\/a*e & be>d1 :i* ,i _h all[$ to gr[ s9ce leav+ ,g>tok to suit my int5d$ ,mohamm$an disguise4 ,all ! m5 put on _! furs4 ,du/ & soil flew ab\t1 & our faces _h a s+ul> appe>ance4 ,at a place :]e a ,y>k& c>avan 0 encamp$1 we turn$ to ! "r up a v n>r[ valley1 9 :i* ! floor1 cov]$ ) bright milky-:ite ice1 look$ l a m>ble pavem5t betwe5 ! rocky walls4 ,=tunately ! ,y>k& m5 _h /rewn s& ov] ! ice1 b /ill x did n prev5t sev]al ( our animals f fall+1 s t !y _h to be load$ aga94 ,:5 we at l5g? camp$ 9 ,long ! temp]ature 0 at z]o ev5 at ?ree o'clock4 ,a second l>ge ,y>k& c>avan1 on ! homew>d j\rney1 0 halt+ "h4 ,! lead]s ask$ u to travel ) !m ov] ! ,k>akorum1 b ,i refus$1 ) ! excuse t we c\ld make only %ort day's m>*es4 ,obs]vation by any :o might tell ! ,*9ese 9 ,y>k& t ,i _h aga9 pass$ ov] into ,tibet 0 exactly :at ,i mu/ avoid above ev]y?+4 ,"h lay a poor man1 bo? ( ^: feet _h be5 fro/-bitt5 on ! ,k>akorum1 s t ! fle% & toes actually fell (f4 ,he crawl$ up to our camp & wept ov] 8 disa/r\s fate4 ,he _h be5 engag$ ) ! ,y>k& c>avan we _h met fir/1 b z he _h become incapable ( "w ow+ to 8 w\nds1 ! b>b>\s m]*ant _h dismiss$ him 9 ! mid/ ( ! wilds & left him beh9d4 ,9 su* a case x is h>d to "k :at to d4 ,we c\ld n cure him1 & to take him ) u or give up a "p ( ! c>avan = him 0 out ( ! "q4 ,he said himself t he w\ld crawl to ,%yok1 b h[ 0 he to get across ! riv]8 ,i let him w>m himself at our fire1 dr9k tea & eat1 & on ! #ah?1 :5 we w5t on aft] #ef ( fro/ 9 ! night1 ,i gave him tsamba = sev]al days1 mat*es1 & a sum ( money :i* w\ld enable him to hire a horse f a c>avan travell+ to ,%yok4 ,?is day's m>* took u ea/w>ds to a place call$ ,bulak 7! spr+72 x %\ld prop]ly h be5 call$ ,guri/an 7! gravey>d71 = "h lay at lea/ tw5ty dead horses4 ,dur+ a ride ( two h\rs ,i _h c\nt$ sixty-?ree c>cases ( horses2 x is wond]ful t trade on ?is c>avan r\te1 ! highe/ 9 ! _w1 c be pr(itable4 ,f !re ! r\te ran up ! n>r[ fissur$ ,murgu valley1 at fir/ up & d[n ov] hills1 :]e numb]s ( dead horses1 :i* _h once be5 /rong & fat1 %[$ u ! way4 ,!n we desc5d$ a break-neck pa? into ! deep valley1 :]e spr+ wat] at ! bottom =m$ crack$ domes ( ice4 ,!n on ! slopes ( ! left flank we climb$ aga9 up a zigzag pa?2 ! sn[ became deep] & 0 pil$ up1 especially on ! pa?1 s smoo? t if ! horses _h made a false /ep we %\ld h be5 lo/ beyond recov]y4 ,! l&scape 0 magnific5t1 b x c\ld n be prop]ly enjoy$ :5 ! temp]ature ab\t "o o'clock 0 only #j4c4 ,& !n aga9 we w5t d[n headlong to ! valley bottom1 :]e we pass$ ov] a natural bridge ( rock improv$ by ! h& ( man4 ,our direction _h be5 ea/1 b n[ we div]g$ m & m to ! nor? & nor?-we/4 ,! sn[ becomes deep]1 ! sun s9ks1 ! %ad[s creep up ! r$di%-yell[ hills1 ! w9d is /rong]1 & "o ?9ks3 ,if ?is la/s mu* long] ,i %all freeze4 ,at la/ we halt at ! foot ( a t]race on ! "r side ( ! valley1 :]e ! %eep are driv5 into a cave to keep !m w>m 9 ! night4 ,i slip d[n f ! saddle ) all my limbs numb$1 & long = a fire4 ,n a trace ( organic life 0 to be se5 at camp ,no4 #bhc4 ,! horses & mules 7 te!r$ s t !y /ood 9 a close pack4 ,at ?is unlucky camp ,i made ! fir/ discov]y on ?is new j\rney ?r\gh ,tibet4 ,abdul ,k]im came to me at ! fire & said3 ,sahib1 we h b>ley = eight to t5 days m2 b 9 t "t we %all rea* ,%ahidulla1 :]e we c get ev]y?+4 ,eight to t5 days6 ,are y mad8 ,did y n obey my ord]s8 ,did ,i n tell y expressly to take b>ley = #b mon?s8 ,i br\ght a supply ) me :i* 0 en\gh = ! j\rney to ,khotan4 ,did ,i n tell y t ,i 0 n go+ to ,khotan by ! ord9>y r\te1 b by r\ndab\t ways :i* w\ld dem& at lea/ two mon?s8 ,yes1 ,sahib1 ,i h act$ wrongly1 answ]$ ! old man1 & began to sob4 ,abdul ,k]im 0 an hone/ man1 b he 0 /upid1 & he _h n ! great exp]i5ce ( ,muham$ ,isa4 ,y are c>avan ba%i1 & ! duty ( a c>avan lead] is to see t !re is suffici5t prov5d] = ! j\rney4 ,:5 ! t5 days are ov]1 our animals w />ve4 ,:at d y mean to d !n8 ,sahib1 s5d me ) "s animals to ,%ahidulla4 ,i c be back aga9 9 a =tnight4 ,y "k t ev]y?+ t happ5s 9 ,%ahidulla is report$ to ! ,amban ( ,khotan4 ,! ,*9ese mu/ "k no?+ ( our int5tions4 ,my fir/ notion 0 to dismiss ,abdul ,k]im at once & to write to ! ,hajji ,naz] ,%ah = m prov5d]1 :i* might be br\ght up on hir$ animals4 ,b :at w\ld !y ?9k 9 we/]n ,tibet & ,ladak if ,i s5t = m prov5d] f ,leh :5 ,i 0 b>ely eight days' j\rney f ,%ahidulla1 :i* lies on ! direct road to ,khotan8 ,my :ole plan w\ld be betray$ & mu/ fail4 ,i %\ld be /opp$ by ! fir/ nomads1 p]haps by ! ,engli% :om ,i _h s happily escap$ hi!rto4 ,x 0 only necess>y to =bid ! natives to supply me ) provisions & baggage animals4 ,& if ,i procur$ all we want$ 9 ,%ahidulla1 ! ,amban ( ,khotan w\ld s5d ^w to ,ka%g>1 :5ce a telegraph l9e runs ?r\gh ,asia to ,pek91 :]e ,8 ,excell5cy ,na ,tang prov$ s absolutely immovable :5 ! ,sw$i% ,m9i/] ,wall5b]g _h giv5 himself s mu* tr\ble to obta9 = me p]mission = a new j\rney ?r\gh ,tibet4 ,up "h 9 ?is desolate valley my position 0 /rong4 ,we _h sneak$ quietly & cauti\sly ?r\gh ,briti% t]ritory )\t excit+ suspicion4 ,b z soon z we came into contact ) ! out] _w we %\ld be caught4 ,i sat 9 my t5t all ! ev5+1 consid]+ ! matt] f all sides1 & measur$ ! di/ances on my map ) compasses4 ,we 7 ab\t #ajj miles f my camp ,no4 #h ( ! prec$+ ye>1 :]e ! grass 0 s good4 ,s f> we c\ld travel )\t ! lea/ difficulty4 ,b beyond we _h #dcj miles m1 to ! di/rict on ! ,tong-tso4 ,h[ev]1 be=e we came !re we mu/ meet ) nomads & graz+ l&4 ,! horses1 inde$1 w\ld be lo/1 b ! ,tibetan mules 71 s ,gulam ,razul said1 accu/om$ to %ift = !mselves1 & !y 7 n giv5 b>ley4 ,! fir/ /ep 0 to rea* ! free op5 ,*ang-tang & get out ( ?is frightful m\setrap1 ! ,%yok valley1 :i* 0 always tak+ u fur!r nor?-nor?-we/4 ,ev5 if we _h to sacrifice ev]y?+ & creep on all f\rs to ! ne>e/ t5t1 ,i w\ld n give 93 ,i w\ld n dep>t a hair's bread? f ! orig9al plan4 ,night came ) a cle> sky1 tw9kl+ />s & %>p fro/2 by n9e o'clock ! temp]ature 0 d[n to -#bj4d4 ,! animals /ood quietly cr[d$ toge!r to keep !mselves w>m4 ,:5 ,i awoke occasionally ,i did n he> !m1 & !y might h vani%$4 ,! m9imum 0 rea*$ at -#ca4b4 ,:5 ,i 0 awak5$1 ,kutus _h be5 out on ! pr[l into a broad valley1 com+ 9 f ! ea/1 & _h f\nd a road :i*1 z f> z he c\ld see1 0 excell5t4 ,we _h /ill two days' j\rney f camp ,no4 #bhc to ! dread$ ,k>akorum pass1 :i* ,i wi%$ to avoid4 ,if we asc5d$ ! side valley ea/w>ds1 we %\ld soon arrive at ! ma9 cre/ ( ! ,k>akorum range & be sp>$ two days' j\rney4 ,i resolv$ to try x4 ,s we travell$ on ,decemb] #bj to ! ea/-nor?-ea/ ov] crun*+ sn[4 ,! valley look$ v promis+1 especially z old horse tracks c\ld be se5 9 "s places4 ,9 ! middle ( ! valley 0 ! b$ ( a brook cov]$ ov] ) smoo?1 trea*]\s ice1 b else:]e !re 0 no?+ b detritus4 ,aft] we _h pass$ a hill ?ickly ov]gr[n ) burtse tufts1 all vegetation ceas$4 ,at "o o'clock ! temp]ature 0 -#e4h4 ,my be>d 0 :ite ) rime1 my face-clo? turn$ into a mass ( ice1 & all ! animals 7 :ite4 ,= h\rs we sl[ly m\nt$ upw>ds4 ,9 "s places ! valley 0 s contract$ t x 0 only #b y>ds broad4 ,! be/ ( ! day 0 ov] :5 ! c>avan sudd5ly came to a halt4 ,all 0 quiet 9 ! front1 & ,i wait$ ) ,kutus = :atev] 0 to happ54 ,aft] a "t came ,abdul ,k]im1 mu* ca/ d[n1 ) ! news t ! valley 0 impassable at two places4 ,i w5t to look4 ,! fir/ b>ri] ( rocks might be =c$1 b ! second 0 worse4 ,we c\ld c]ta9ly h dragg$ ! baggage ov] ! ice betwe5 & "u ! blocks1 b !re 0 no passage = ! animals4 ,%\ld we try to make a road along :i* ! animals c\ld be help$ ov] ! blocks by ! unit$ /r5g? ( ! m58 ,yes2 b fir/ m5 mu/ be s5t up to f9d out :e!r !re 7 m ( su* b>ri]s to cross4 ,:5 !y came back ) ! news t ! way 0 /ill worse above1 ,i gave ord]s to pit* ! camp1 z ! %ades ( ev5+ 7 fall+4 ,good heav5s1 :at a camp6 ,n a blade ( grass1 n a drop ( wat]6 ,aga9 we sat 9 a m\setrap betwe5 /eep m\nta9 walls1 :]e1 at any mom5t1 deva/at+ blocks might be deta*$ f ! sides by ! fro/4 ,! horses scrap$ ab\t 9 ! sn[ look+ = grass4 ,dur+ ! night !y roam$ ab\t1 & /umbl$ ov] ! t5t ropes4 ,! !rmomet] fell to -#cj4f4 ,"o puppy lo/ 8 way1 got outside1 & came ( 8 own accord into my t5t2 =tunately = him ,i 0 awak5$ by 8 :9+1 & gave him %elt] 9 my b$1 :]e he 0 w>m & com=table4 ,a fro/y morn+6 we mu/ take c>e n to t\* metal1 = x burns l fire4 ,a mule made 8 way into my t5t & look$ = some?+ edible 9 my wa%+-bas94 ,to 8 great a/oni%m5t x /uck to 8 nose1 & he took x a few /eps ) him4 ,! hungry animals _h consum$ two empty sacks & six ropes dur+ ! night1 & play$ ! mis*ief ) "o ano!r's tails4 ,9 w9t]1 life up "h is a desp]ate /ruggle ) ! fro/4 ,! ord]s = ! day 7 to encamp 9 a place :]e !re 7 /alks ( yap*an & burtse1 & rema9 !re all ! next day4 ,i set out at a temp]ature ( -#bc4h & f\nd ! camp all ready on ! "r side ( ! valley4 ,! animals 7 imm$iately s5t up ! slopes1 & !re graz$ ) a good appetite on ! dry froz5 /alks4 ,dur+ ! day ( re/1 pieces ( ice 7 hewn out ( ! brook & melt$ 9 ! two l>ge kettles ( ! m54 ,horses & mules 7 !n able to dr9k _! fill4 ,9 ! night a mo/ welcome *ange took place 9 ! wea!r1 ! :ole sky 0 ov]ca/1 & ! !rmomet] fell only to #a2 x felt q w>m 9 ! morn+4 ,"s mules _h /amp$$1 b ,lobsang f\nd !m aft] a dilig5t se>*4 ,i set out ) ,kutus soon aft] ! c>avan4 ,we _h n gone f> :5 we saw ,muham$ ,isa's :ite ,%igatse horse ly+ froz5 /iff 9 ! sn[4 ,he _h be5 9 a wret*$ /ate = "s days1 & ! la/ h>d%ips _h be5 too mu* = him4 ,worn-out & emaciat$ he really ne$$ a long1 long re/4 ,aft] a :ile we pass$ ! valley junction & ! unlucky camp ,no4 #bhc1 & 7 aga9 on ! great c>avan r\te1 ! road ( dead horses4 ,f\r lay 9 a rav9e q close toge!r1 z ?\gh !y did n wi% to "p ev5 9 dea?4 ,a l>ge dapple-grey %[$ no *ange1 b ano!r horse look$ z if x 7 /uff$1 & a ?ird1 ) its out/ret*$ legs1 resembl$ an ov]turn$ gymnasium horse4 ,"s 7 ne>ly cov]$ ) sn[1 & o!rs _h fall5 9 a curi\s cramp$ position1 b mo/ ( !m lay z ?\gh dea? _h surpris$ !m :5 !y 7 compos+ !mselves to re/ aft] viol5t ex]tion4 ,ne>ly all 7 holl[3 ! hide 0 /ret*$ ov] ! backbone & ribs1 & !y look$ intact f ! back1 b on ! o!r side x c\ld be se5 t !y 7 only empty1 dry skeletons1 h>d z iron1 :i* rattl$ :5 ! yell[ dog1 :o _h no?+ else to eat on ! way1 pull$ !m ab\t4 ,! dogs b>k$ at ! fir/ c>cases1 b soon !y became famili> ) ! sight ( !m4 ,:at suff]+s & :at desp]ate /ruggles = life ^! dre>y m\nta9s mu/ h witness$ 9 ! c\rse ( "t6 ,ly+ awake at night "o fancies "o he>s ! sighs ( worn-out pack animals & _! lab\r$ brea?+ z !y pati5tly g t[>ds _! end1 & sees an endless p>ade ( vet]ans condemn$ to die :o c endure no m 9 ! s]vice ( cruel man4 ,:5 ! dogs b>k outside 9 ! sil5t night !y seem to b>k at gho/s & app>itions :o try ) hesitat+ /eps to make _! way out ( ! sn[fields t hold !m fa/1 & int]v5e betwe5 !m & ! juicy mead[s ( ,ladak4 ,if any road 9 ! _w des]ves ! "n ,via dolorosa1 x is ! c>avan road ov] ! ,k>akorum pass connect+ ,ea/]n ,turke/an ) ,india4 ,l an enorm\s bridge ( sighs x spans ) its airy ar*es ! highe/ m\nta9-l& ( ,asia & ( ! _w4 ,high] & high] our sl[ tra9 asc5ds ! fissur$ valley :]e "h & !re small glaci] tongues peep out betwe5 ! /eep crags4 ,frequ5tly old camp+-places are se5 ) ripp$-up pack-saddles4 ,hurricanes f ! s\? prevail "h2 f9e r$ du/ f wea!r$ s&/one flies l cl\ds ( blood ?r\gh ! valley & col\rs ! sn[fields r$4 ,! valley %r9ks to a holl[ way :]e a some:at m %elt]$ spot be>s ! "n ,daulet ,bek ulldi 7:]e ,daulet ,bek di$74 ,:o 0 he8 ,no "o kn[s2 b ! "n has rema9$4 ,probably an ord9>y trad] f ,khotan or ,y>k&1 or a pilgrim :o di$ on 8 w&]+s1 & !re=e f\nd ! doors ( p>adise wide op54 ,= ov] ! ,k>akorum pass runs ! ma9 pilgrim r\te f ,ea/]n ,turke/an to ,mecca4 ,! valley becomes ev] small]--a m]e corridor betwe5 walls ( r$ conglom]ate4 ,?is is ! ,kizil-unkur1 or ! ,r$ ,hole1 an appropriate "n4 ,"h ! c>avan has pit*$ its camp4 ,n a sign ( organic life4 ,! animals /& 9 a gr\p1 & ! mules gnaw at ! froz5 dung ( =m] visitors4 ,f ?is hole ! way rises up to ! ,dapsang plateau1 :]e a sn[/orm is n[ rag+1 & ev5 9 ! valley flakes ( sn[ dance & :irl 9 ! air4 ,9 ! twilight ,tundup ,sonam comes up ) only twelve %eep2 ! o!rs h be5 froz5 to dea? on ! way4 ,night falls ?reat5+ & awful on ! ev]la/+ sn[4 ,ev]y?+ up "h is s dre>y & cold 7#af1hbd feet72 !re is no?+ liv+ f> & wide1 & yet ! yell[ dog fills ! rav9e ) 8 b>k+4 ,! m5 set up ! t5ts ne> toge!r1 & a v scanty fire burn$ among !m1 = we _h to be economical ) ! firewood f ,kteklik4 ,! ,mohamm$ans />t$ a l[ *>m+ song 9 ris+ & fall+ tones1 & n[ & !n a /rong voice inton$ a holl[ ,allahu ekb]4 ,:5 ,gulam came ) ! brazi] ,i ask$ him :at x meant1 & he said t x 0 a namas or hymn ( pray] to ,allah1 t ! ,mo/ ,high might protect u 9 ! morn+ f ! sn[/orm4 ,= if a c>avan is caught 9 a sn[/orm on ! heights ( ,dapsang x is lo/4 ,i (t5 he>d ?is melodi\s hymn aga9 9 days ( h>d%ip1 & x always affect$ me pa9fully4 ,n z ! reproa*ful w>n+ clang ( *ur* bells r++ = s]vice1 :5 ,i pass a *ur* door )\t go+ 91 b because ! m5 sang ! hymn only :5 !y 7 out ( spirits & consid]$ our position desp]ate4 ,x seem$ z ?\gh !y w\ld rem9d me t defeat await$ me1 & t ?is "t ,i _h aim$ too high4 ,,*apt] ,,lvii ,,on ,,! ,,ro( ,,( ,,! ,,_w ,on ,*ri/mas ,eve #aije ,i _h d9$ ) ,mr4 & ,mrs4 ,grant ,duff 9 ! hospitable ,engli% ,embassy1 & on ano!r day supp$ ) ,c\nt d',ap*i] 9 ! ,fr5* ,legation1 & 0 invit$ to a reception by ,c\nt ,rex 9 ! ,g]man ,embassy1--all 9 ,teh]an1 n[ 9 su* a di/urb$ /ate4 ,! same day twelve mon?s lat] ,i _h /ill ,muham$ ,isa & ,rob]t ) me1 & we 7 9 inhabit$ c\ntry4 ,little ,i dreamt n[ t old ,asia w\ld dem& /ill ano!r ,*ri/mas ,eve 9 my life1 & t on ,decemb] #bd1 #aijh1 ,i %\ld sit at table amid a circle ( pleasant & intellig5t ,japanese 9 di/ant ,mukd51 :]e a few ye>s be=e ! ?und]s ( w> _h roll$ above ! graves ( ! ,man*urian emp]ors4 ,b ?is ye>1 #aijg1 ,i 0 q alone1 & ) twelve satellites on ! way to my--,ukra9e4 ,9 ! morn+ ) a bright sun & calm wea!r ! c>avan m>*$ sl[ly up t[>ds ! heights ( ,dapsang1 :ile ,kutus & ,i foll[$ 9 ! crun*+ sn[4 ,i _h giv5 ,abdul ,k]im ord]s to wait at ! top4 ,aft] ,i _h read ! in/rum5ts & f\nd a height ( #ag1hjh feet1 ,i sc\r$ ! horizon ) my field-glass--a confusion ( sn[y m\nta9s4 ,only to ! nor?-ea/ a broad erosion furr[ slop$ g5tly d[n1 & ,i *ose t direction4 ,n[ we leave ! ,k>akorum r\te & ride ea/w>ds1 ,i said2 foll[ my track2 ,i w ride 9 front4 ,! m5 />$ 9 a/oni%m5t2 !y _h look$ =w>d to ! g>d5s & v9ey>ds ( ,khotan1 & ,i (f]$ !m ! granite & sn[/orms ( ,*ang-tang4 ,!y said no?+1 h[ev]1 b sil5tly & pati5tly foll[$ 9 my foot/eps4 ,x 0 n easy to lead ! way1 = ! c\ntry 0 cov]$ ) deep sn[4 ,i direct$ ,kutus1 & he w5t be=e my horse to te/ ! dep?4 ,! gr\nd 0 q level1 b conta9$ holl[s :]e ! sn[ lay #c to #f feet deep2 & ! cru/ 0 exce$+ly trea*]\s1 = sometimes x broke1 & ,i 0 ?r[n out ( ! saddle1 :ile ! horse plung$ & fl\nd]$ l a dolph91 & 0 almo/ suffocat$ 9 ! f9e dry sn[4 ,we !re=e turn$ back to try ano!r direction4 ,lobsang1 :o 0 always on ! al]t :5 we 7 9 a critical situation1 0 already look+ = a bett] way4 ,b we mu/ 9 any case cross ! valley1 & ! m5 tramp$ out a furr[ 9 ! sn[1 ?r\gh :i* ! animals 7 l$ "o at a "t4 ,! horses manag$ be/1 :ile ! mules (t5 fell & caus$ long delays4 ,h[ f> w\ld ?is sn[ ext5d8 ,x *eck$ our progress & conceal$ any wret*$ pa/ure t might exi/ 9 "s rav9e4 ,we crawl$ on l snails4 ,i w5t on foot1 & my sk9 coat felt z heavy z lead4 ,b aft] sev]al h\rs ( h>d toil we rea*$ ! t]race skirt+ ! "r side ( ! valley1 :]e ! sn[ 0 ?9n] & we made m progress4 ,camp ,no4 #bhg 0 9 ! mo/ desolate spot ,i c rememb] 9 all my travels1 except ! s&y sea ( ! ,takla-makan des]t4 ,beh9d u our trail w\nd ?r\gh ! :ite sn[ & 9 front all 0 sn[4 ,! animals 7 te!r$ close toge!r1 & !y _h a fe$ ( corn 9 ! ev5+4 ,aft] ! day's "w 0 ov] ,i light$ two c&les--usually ,i _h b "o--& set up ! portraits ( my family on a box1 z ,i _h (t5 done be=e on ,*ri/mas ,eves 9 ,asia4 ,at half-pa/ eight o'clock ! moon rose glori\sly ov] ! m\nta9s to ! ea/-nor?-ea/1 & at n9e ! !rmomet] _h sunk to -#af4h4 ,i c\ld n get ! temp]ature above -#d 9 my t5t1 & my h&s 7 s b5umb$ t ,i c\ld n hold a book1 b _h to crawl into b$1 :i* 0 ! be/ ?+ to d--!re "o =gets ,*ri/mas ) all its preci\s memories & its melan*oly solitude4 ,! !rmomet] sank to -#cg4e4 ,a horse lay froz5 h>d 9 8 place 9 ! l9e2 ! o!rs /ood /upefi$1 ) droop+ heads1 & great icicles on _! noses4 ,*ri/mas ,eve br\ght u good wea!r4 ,i almo/ long$ = a sn[/orm4 ,we _h no fe> ( pursuit1 b if a ,turke/an c>avan n[ w5t d[n to ,kizil-unkur1 ! m5 w\ld see our trail 9 ! sn[ & report t we 7 (f to ,tibet4 ,a sn[/orm w\ld oblit]ate all traces4 ,mean:ile we /umbl$ on ea/w>ds ?r\gh ! sn[4 ,a spr+ suppli$ wat] :]e all ! animals got a dr9k4 ,we halt$ 9 a rav9e ) tufts ( yap*an 7#ag1jhg feet74 ,! animals made gre$ily = ! dry h>d /alks1 :i* also provid$ u ) a gr& fire1 & ?is ev5+ x 0 w>m & com=table 9 my t5t4 ,i rejoic$ to ?9k t ! days w\ld aga9 become long]1 & subtract$ ! l5g? ( ea* day's m>* f ! di/ance betwe5 u & ! ,tong-tso4 ,ah1 w\ld we 7 !re6 ,& !re we %\ld be only on ! nor!rn m>g9 ( ! blank space4 ,:at an imm5sely long way we _h to travel6 ,next day we foll[$ ! same flat valley ea/w>ds betwe5 m\nta9s ( mod]ate height1 mak+ use ( a pa? worn d[n by ,pan?olops antelopes4 ,! sn[ became less deep & 0 only occasionally tr\blesome1 usually cov]$ ) a cru/ z dry z p>*m5t4 ,:5 we _h encamp$ 9 a p]fectly b>r5 spot1 ,i consult$ ) ,abdul ,k]im4 ,only two sacks ( b>ley 7 left4 ,i saw t he _h be5 weep+1 & !re=e ,i re/ra9$ my wra?4 ,! o!rs1 too1 7 a/oni%$ & doleful4 ,i _h n yet said any?+ to !m1 b !y und]/ood t !re 0 no "q ( ,khotan4 ,! m5 _h tsamba = ne>ly ?ree mon?s & rice = two4 ,i !re=e ord]$ t "s %\ld be giv5 to ! horses :5 ! b>ley 0 f9i%$1 b en\gh %\ld be left = ! m5 to la/ two mon?s4 ,! o!rs ga!r$ outside ! t5t dur+ ! consultation4 ,lobsang 0 calm & unconc]n$1 & c\ld be he>d s++ & :i/l+ z he wat*$ ! animals4 ,i took to him mo/1 p]haps because he 0 a ,tibetan2 b ,i lik$ !m all1 = !y 7 capital fell[s4 ,9 ! ev5+ !y sang hymns to ,allah1 kn[+ t our situation 0 exce$+ly critical4 ,next day we />t$ e>ly1 & ,i rode at ! head ( ! c>avan4 ,we all _h sev]e heada*es1 b ! height 0 enorm\s 7#ag1fdd feet74 ,we _h m>*$ little m ?an a mile :5 we f\nd sp>se grass 9 a slight holl[ on ! nor!rn slopes4 ,t 0 a ,*ri/mas box4 ,"h we pit*$ our camp4 ,! animals ran up to ! pa/ure ) _! loads on4 ,h[ !y ate6 ,x 0 a pleasure to see !m4 ,su5 cut ridicul\s cap]s betwe5 ! t5ts4 ,! m5 7 9 high spirits4 ,i he>d no m hymns to ,allah1 b ! c>avan ba%i1 :o seem$ to ?9k he 0 9 "s degree responsible = ! spiritual welf>e ( all ! ,mohamm$ans1 usually read e ev5+ at sunset "o ( ! five daily pray]s4 ,our supply ( fuel 0 at an end1 b ,lobsang f\nd a h>d moss :i* burn$ = a long "t & gave out pl5ty ( heat4 ,n[ ,i p]ceiv$ t :5 we %\ld "s "t "p1 ,i %\ld miss ,lobsang mo/4 ,on ,decemb] #bh1 lead5 cl\ds lay ov] ! e>?1 & !re=e ! cold 0 less sev]e4 ,we cont9u$ our c\rse ea/w>ds1 & m>*$ sl[ly till we came to a spr+1 :i* at ! orifice _h a temp]ature ( #cc4f4 ,! wat] felt q w>m2 x =m$ l>ge cakes ( ice 9 ! flat valley1 :i* look$ f a di/ance l a lake4 ,:ile ! m5 set up ! t5ts "h1 ,puppy1 z usual1 took *>ge ( h] "y ones 9 a fold$ piece ( felt4 ,"o ( !m _h a :ite spot on ! =ehead & 0 my especial fav\rite1 = he nev] :9$ unnecess>ily4 ,to-day he _h op5$ 8 eyes & giv5 a %ort glance at ! cold inhospitable _w ar\nd him4 ,h[ev]1 be=e my t5t 0 ready1 he di$ q sudd5ly1 & 0 buri$ "u "s /ones t ! yell[ dog might n eat him up4 ,mamma ,puppy look$ = him1 b soon cont5t$ h]self ) ! la/ ( ! f\r4 ,we w\ld d all we c\ld to keep ?is little creature4 ,on ! way to ! next camp+-place1 ,no4 #bib1 we /ill foll[$ ! same bless$ valley :i* _h af=d$ u su* an excell5t r\te s9ce ,*ri/mas ,eve4 ,! m9imum temp]ature _h fall5 to -#ba4h1 z ?\gh a cold wave 7 pass+ ov] ! c\ntry4 ,at "o place "s wild yaks _h left _! visit+ c>ds1 & ! m5 collect$ a sack ( dung4 ,evid5tly ^! animals come hi!r only 9 summ]2 ! w9t] is too cold ev5 = !m4 ,a mule di$ be=e we rea*$ a spr+ surr\nd$ by fair graz+4 ,s f> we _h got on well1 b _h made little progress2 on ! pa/ six days we _h cov]$ only #dg miles4 ,decemb] #cj4 ,) a m9imum ( z]o & a temp]ature at "o o'clock ( #c4b ! range betwe5 day & night is n great4 ,b n[ ! sky 0 cov]$ ) d5se cl\ds2 x sn[$ & became half d>k2 ! m5 c\ld n tell 9 :i* direction !y 7 m>*+1 & ask$ :]e ! sun rose4 ,we _h ! help ( ! longitud9al valley = ano!r day's j\rney1 & we foll[$ x d[n to a junction ( valleys :]e !re 0 a huge %eet ( ice4 ,on ! way ,i saw a flock ( tw5ty-two wild %eep1 :i* fl$ ) great agility up a slope ( detritus1 br++ ! /ones rattl+ d[n4 ,9 ! ev5+ ,i in=m$ ,abdul ,k]im1 ,gulam1 & ,kutus t we 7 to advance into ,tibet & /e] our c\rse pa/ ! ,arport-tso to ! upp] ,brahmaputra4 ,& ,i told !m t ,i %\ld travel 9 disguise 9 ord] to escape notice4 ,!y 7 amaz$1 & ask$ if ,i %\ld n expose my life to dang] daily2 b ,i calm$ !m1 say+ t all w\ld g well if !y only obey$ my ord]s implicitly4 ,our *ief conc]n 0 to pres]ve our animals1 = if ! c>avan 7 lo/ we %\ld nev] get on4 ,yes1 answ]$ ! c>avan ba%i1 if we only f9d good pa/ure1 s t ! animals c re/ & eat _! fill1 we c c]ta9ly hold out = two mon?s1 b !y w n be> long m>*es4 ,"h we /ood at a p>t+ ( ! roads4 ,our valley op5$ into ano!r1 :i* came d[n f high m\nta9s 9 ! s\?1 "p ( ! ,k>akorum range4 ,! unit$ /reams cont9u$ _! c\rse nor?w>ds1 & c\ld n be any o!r riv] b ! upp] c\rse ( ! ,k>aka% ,d>ya2 9 its l[] valley on ! ,khotan ,d>ya ,i _h _m ye>s be=e almo/ lo/ my life4 ,n[ ! "q 0 :e!r we %\ld g up or d[n1 & we decid$ to devote ! la/ day ( ! ye> to f9d+ out :i* 0 ! bett] road1 s5d+ out ,abdullah to reconnoitre s\?-ea/w>ds1 ,tubges nor?-ea/w>ds4 ,z 9 any case we %\ld h to cross ! ice %eet1 a pa? 0 s&$4 ,we pack$ ! #fjjj rupees ,colonel ,dunlop ,smi? _h s5t f ,india 9 two sacks1 :i* 7 light] ?an ! wood5 boxes1 & ^! 7 to be us$ z firewood "s "t :5 all else fail$4 ,at e camp our baggage became light]1 z our provisions dim9i%$1 & ,i ?rew away "o book aft] ano!r aft] ,i _h read !m4 ,i _h receiv$ f home ! numb]s ( a ,sw$i% j\rnal = half a ye>1 & ^! 7 v useful 9 light+ our camp-fires4 ,we _h /ill n9e %eep left1 b ! "t 0 fa/ approa*+ :5 our meat supply w\ld come to an end1 = we c\ld h>dly reckon on f9d+ game s soon4 ,new ,ye>'s ,day #aijh 0 bright & sunny--a good om5 z reg>d$ ! d>k riddles ?is ye> conceal$4 ,! two sc\ts return$ ) ! same report3 t !re 7 no ob/acles 9 ! way2 & ,i let !m discuss ! "q !mselves1 & decide :i* way 0 ! be/4 ,!y *ose ,abdullah's r\te1 :i* l$ up ! valley s\?-ea/w>ds4 ,! road "h 0 excell5t4 ,at ! m\? ( ! valley we f\nd a c\ple ( small r\nd /one walls1 :i*1 h[ev]1 might v well h be5 a hundr$ ye>s old4 ,! sight ( a dead yak _h an enliv5+ effect on u1 contradictory z x may s\nd4 ,high] we m\nt$ to :]e a l(ty sn[ m\nta9 ) glaci]s c\ld be se5 at ! end ( ! valley4 ,!n we /opp$1 & sc\ts 7 s5t =w>ds4 ,!y decl>$ t ! way 0 impassable1 & vot$ t ,abdullah %\ld be ?ra%$4 ,b z su* measures w\ld h be5 ( no use to u 9 our difficulty he got (f ) a good scold+4 ,he admitt$ t he _h n be5 s f> up z we 7 n[1 yet on 8 return he _h ask$ =1 & be5 giv51 a bit ( tobacco = 8 reconnoitr+ "w4 ,i told him t he _h done a mean trick1 & t he %\ld nev] see ! smoke ( my tobacco aga94 ,!re 0 no?+ to d b pit* our camp4 ,a /rong s\?-we/ w9d blew1 & f9e sn[ 0 driv5 d[n f all ! cre/s & summits4 ,:5 ! m5 w5t out to ga!r fuel !y look$ l ,pol> explor]s4 ,aft] all1 ,new ,ye>'s ,day _h br\ght u no good luck1 b1 on ! contr>y1 a retreat4 ,?is 0 comm5c$ e>ly on ! morn+ ( ,janu>y #b1 & we pass$ aga9 camp #bic1 & m>*$ onw>ds ov] slopes ( detritus on ! ea/]n side ( ! ice %eet4 ,at "o spot spr+ wat] =m$ a little bubbl+ f\nta9 9 ! mid/ ( ! ice4 ,aft] ! valley _h turn$ to ! ea/-nor?-ea/ we encamp$ 9 a corn] :]e drifts& 0 pil$ up into hillocks4 ,i want$ to get out ( ?is labyr9? ( m\nta9s & valleys :i* p\r _! wat]s into ,ea/]n ,turke/an4 ,we 7 /ill 9 ! bas9 ( ! ,k>aka% riv]1 & mu/ soon] or lat] cross a pass sep>at+ x f ! salt lakes ( ! ,*ang-tang4 ,on ! #crd we aga9 m\nt$ up "o ( ! head valleys & camp$ 9 its upp] "p1 :ile ! c\ntry 0 envelop$ 9 a furi\s sn[/orm4 ,x cont9u$ till late 9 ! ev5+1 & :at 0 mo/ rem>kable 0 t ! />s %one all ! "t ?\gh ! sn[ 0 fall+ ?ickly4 ,be=e1 !re _h be5 blue-black cl\ds above u )\t a sn[flake4 ,extraord9>y l&6 ,next day we re/$4 ,! animals _h be5 )\t dr9k = a long "t1 fuel 0 abundant1 ice 0 tak5 f ! riv] b$ & melt$ 9 pots4 ,9 ?is region ! m\nta9s are less cont9u\s1 & =m %>p peaks & pyramids ( small relative height4 ,x sn[$ all night1 b ! morn+ ( ,janu>y #e 0 f9e z we travell$ ea/w>ds along ! r\te ,kutus _h inve/igat$4 ,x l$ up ov] sn[-cov]$ gr\nd to a small pass 7#ag1iie feet71 on ! o!r side ( :i* ano!r bran* ( ! ,k>aka% cross$ our c\rse4 ,we mu/ get out ( ?is entanglem5t1 :i* delay$ our m>* & told on our /r5g?4 ,z long z ! animals kept up we _h no?+ to compla9 (4 ,i 0 glad ( e day t br\ght u a little ne>] to spr+ & out ( ! w9t]'s cold4 ,x p5etrat$ ?r\gh ev]y?+4 ,my feet _h no feel+ 9 !m4 ,gulam rubb$ !m & massag$ me 9 ! ev5+ ov] ! fire1 b c\ld n br+ !m to life4 ,! ink 0 turn$ into a lump ( ice & _h to be ?aw$ be=e ! fire2 :5 ,i wrote ,i _h to b5d ov] ! brazi]1 & /ill ! ink congeal$ 9 ! p5 & froze on ! pap]4 ,s+ul>ly en\gh ,i h /ill an unqu5*able desire = ice-cold wat] & pref] x to w>m tea1 b ! wat] we usually get is f> f pleasant4 ,x is g5]ally ,tubges :o takes a spade & fills an empty sack ) sn[1 & !n melts x 9 a kettle4 ,gulam tries to p]suade me to dr9k tea1 & _c und]/& h[ x is t ,i am n sick ( wat]4 ,x is no use be+ ?ir/y 9 ! night3 a cup ( wat] /&+ ne> ! brazi] is froz5 to ! bottom 9 a qu>t] ( an h\r4 ,aft] a temp]ature ( -#bh & a /ormy night1 :i* drove ! animals to seek %elt] 9 ! m5's t5t1 we cross$ ! broad valley up to ! next pass4 ,we left a l(ty sn[-cov]$ m\nta9 to ! s\?4 ,at ! foot ( a hill a wild yak 0 mus+4 ,:5 he saw our d>k tra9 aga9/ ! :ite sn[ he made /raight t[>ds u1 b be=e long he took 8 way ?r\gh ! valley & da%$ 9 wild flight to ! nor?1 foll[$ by our two dogs4 ,x 0 v enc\rag+ to f9d some?+ liv+ 9 ?is ,god-=gott5 wild]ness2 = n[ we _h lo/ ev5 ! rav54 ,x 0 a /eep & sl[ asc5t up to ! pass1 :i* _h a height ( #ah1jje feet4 ,we 7 surpris$ to f9d t x 0 a sn[ limit1 = ea/ ( ! pass !re 0 no sn[ at all4 ,z we desc5d$ ! o!r side along a broad1 op51 s&y valley we _h to be c>eful t we did n f9d ourselves )\t wat] 9 ! ev5+4 ,f> to ! s\? appe>$ an ice %eet1 b x lay too f> out ( our c\rse4 ,we !re=e fill$ two sacks ) sn[ f ! la/ drift1 encamp$ :]e ?9 tufts af=d$ fuel1 & s5t five m5 ) all ! animals s\?w>ds to ! ice 9 se>* ( wat] & fodd]4 ,! wat] "q n[ became press+1 = app>5tly we c\ld n c\nt on sn[ mu* f>!r4 ,& we c\ld n dig = wat]1 z be=e1 = ! gr\nd 0 froz5 into /one4 ,we mu/ !re=e proce$ cauti\sly4 ,we _h a great op5 wild]ness 9 front ( u2 we mu/ make our way f "o po9t ( support to ano!r1 & explore ! r\tes 9 advance1 le/ we might come to a cata/rophe4 ,i !re=e gave ord]s t1 n[ t ! loads 7 consid]ably small]1 a c\ple ( our animals %\ld c>ry sn[ or ice4 ,at e camp we left an empty meat-t94 ,i ?9k less ( ! "t soon approa*+ :5 ! excell5t goods f ,simla w come to an end ?an ( ! fact t ! burd5s ( our animals are daily becom+ light]4 ,! rock specim5s ,i collect d n weigh mu*4 ,( c\rse ! prov5d] has long giv5 out1 b :]e ! pa/urage is scanty or altoge!r abs5t1 loaves ( p>*$ meal are knead$ toge!r = ! animals4 ,! m5 are to come back on ! #g?1 & we wait = !m till mid-day4 ,!re1 too1 !y come3 ! black gr\p is pla9ly visible2 !y m>* & m>*1 b come no ne>]4 ,ah1 x is only "s black /ones danc+ 9 ! mirage4 ,a little lat] ,su5 reports t "s ( ! animals h run away1 & consequ5tly we h to rema9 ! :ole day at ?is dismal camp4 ,h[ sl[ly ! h\rs pass on a day l ?is6 ,i am a prison] 9 my own t5t1 = cold & w9d keep me f "w out ( doors4 ,z long z ! sun is above ! horizon ,i pass ! "t v com=tably1 = ,i c see ! m\nta9s1 ^! sil5t1 dre>y1 lonely m\nta9s1 :]e m5 nev] w&]1 & ,i see ! s&sp\ts :irl+ along be=e ! w9d4 ,b :5 ! sun sets1 ! long w9t] ev5+ beg9s1 & ,i he> only ! h[l ( ! /orm )\t4 ,pati5ce6 ,spr+ w come "s "t4 ,e day t passes we are a /ep f>!r f ?is horrible w9t]4 ,br[n ,puppy & h] :elp keep me company1 & ,i look ^u !m z comrades 9 mis=tune4 ,%e has h] mat 9 a corn] ( ! t5t1 & takes h] meals :5 ,i d4 ,! :elp we call ,black ,puppy amuses me imm5sely4 ,he has begun to take notice ( ! _w & ! life ar\nd him4 ,:5 ! big dogs b>k outside ! t5t1 he turns 8 head & gives a feeble gr[l4 ,:5 8 "m leaves him on ! mat 9 ! cold1 he makes an attempt at a b>k & seems to ?9k x /range4 ,he w&]s ab\t ! t5t1 ?\gh he is /ill s un/eady on 8 legs t he con/antly topples ov]4 ,he has already conceiv$ a highly salut>y respect = ! brazi]1 & sniffs & %akes 8 head :5 he *ances to come too ne> x4 ,sometimes x happ5s t he misses 8 "m 9 ! night1 :5 !re may be z _m z #ed degrees ( fro/ 9 ! t5t2 b 8 compla9+ squeal awak5s me1 & ,i take him "u ! furs--an att5tion he is v fond (4 ,"o morn+ he wak5$ me by crawl+ ( 8 own accord on to my pill[ & try+ to get into my b$4 ,aft] t ,i felt no conc]n ab\t 8 future2 he mu/ le>n h[ to make 8 way 9 life1 & t he 0 do+4 ,on ! #h? we w5t ov] a small pass #ag1efi feet high4 ,a horse & a mule p]i%$ on ! way4 ,camp #bii 0 pit*$ :]e ! fir/ pa/ure 0 f\nd1 9 a valley on ! o!r side 7#af1idf feet74 ,!re 0 no wat]1 b we _h f\r sacks ( ice4 ,sev5 %eep 7 left1 & ! rav5 _h also come aga94 ,! aim ( our next day's j\rney 0 to f9d wat] = ! animals4 ,my tru/y :ite ,ladaki horse1 :i* ,i always rode1 us$ to get my wa%+ wat] e morn+1 & ,i us$ no soap t ,i might n spoil x = him4 ,f a small rise 9 ! gr\nd we 7 able to enjoy ! view ,i _h s long$ =--! great op5 pla9 we _h cross$ 9 ! autumn ( #aijf4 ,to ! ea/-s\?-ea/ ,i easily recogniz$ ! spur we pass$ !n1 & we c\ld n be m ?an two days' m>* f ! ,aksai-*9 lake4 ,i _h n[ foll[$ = sev]al days mu* ! same r\te z ,crosby1 & at ! lake ,i %\ld cross my own r\te ( #aijf1 aft] :i* we %\ld g d[n t[>ds ! ,arport-tso1 &1 z la/ ye>1 int]sect ! pa?s ( ,b[]1 ,deasy1 ,rawl+1 & ,zugmey]4 ,! :ole c\ntry lay "u a vault ( d5se cl\ds4 ,aft] a m>* ( only #c miles we f\nd a fl[+ spr+ ( beautiful wat] 7#cc71 :]e camp ,no4 #cjj 7#af1cbi feet7 0 pit*$4 ,9 ! ev5+ my s]vants sang bright & happy melodies aga91 & ,su5 p]=m$ 8 mo/ ridicul\s dances4 ,we 7 aga9 up on ! ro( ( ! _w1 & all dre>y ,tibet lay 9 front ( u4 ,%\ld we be able to cross x ) our little c>avan8 ,,*apt] ,,lviii ,,=ty ,,degrees ,,bel[ ,,z]o ,) fre% blocks ( ice 9 our sacks we set out on ,janu>y #aj /raight t[>ds ! projection at ! foot ( :i* camp #h _h be5 pit*$1 & :]e ,i knew t ! grass 0 good4 ,! great level b>r5 pla9 /ret*$ betwe5 u & ! spot1 & we _h #ae miles to cov]4 ,! w9d 0 boi/]\s1 & we 7 froz5 ?r\gh 9 a m9ute4 ,9 ! lee ( ! c>avan1 :i* w5t 9 advance1 lay a cl\d ( du/ l smoke4 ,! yell[ hue ( ! grass c\ld be se5 f a di/ance1 & ! sight s refre%$ my m5 t !y began to s+ on ! m>*4 ,! animals und]/ood t !y 7 com+ to good pa/urage1 & quick5$ _! pace )\t any %\ts f ! m54 ,! t5ts 7 set up 9 ! same place z la/ ye>1 & "h ,i clos$ my long circuit\s r\te ?r\gh ,tibet4 ,x 0 ) a melan*oly feel+ ,i saw ?is place aga91 :]e ,muham$ ,isa _h rais$ 8 tall cairn4 ,n[ we _h avoid$ all dang]s f ,rudok1 & we m9d$ little t ,engl& & ,russia _h promis$ ea* o!r n to let a ,european into ,tibet = ?ree ye>s4 ,! height "h 0 #af1aih feet4 ,illu/ration3 #cja4 ,view f ,camp #cjg4 ,illu/ration3 #cjb4 ,! small salt ,lake s\? ( ,camp #cji4 7,smudge 9 sky caus$ by ! freez+ ( ! col\r47 ,illu/ration3 #cjc4 ,horses go+ to dr9k at ! lake ne> ,camp #caj4 ,abdul ,k]im on ! left4 ,illu/ration3 #cjd4 ,m\nta9 nor?-ea/ ( ,camp #caj2 ! fre%wat] ,lake 9 ! =egr\nd4 ,illu/ration3 #cje4 ,/orm ,cl\ds ov] ! sn[y m\nta9s s\? ( ,camp #cab4 ,wat]-col\r ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,= sev]al days ,i _h spok5 ( ?is place ) its good pa/urage1 & :5 we broke up our camp on ! #aa? ,i 0 able to promise my m5 a /ill bett] camp = ! next night4 ,!y 7 a/oni%$ t ,i 0 s mu* at home 9 ^! dre>y regions4 ,! track ( ! great c>avan ( #aijf 0 bl[n away by ! passage ( _m /orms1 b ! ,aksai-*9 lake soon came into sight1 its surface look+ grey & dismal 9 ! *illy wea!r4 ,six kiang spoors conv]g$ to ! f9e spr+ ( fre% wat] ne> ! %ore1 :]e we k9dl$ our fires among ! same /ones z la/ "t4 ,pa/urage & fuel are abundant 9 ! neighb\rhood2 x is a v]itable oasis--! be/ camp we _h _h s9ce ,kteklik4 ,b ! /orm /ill rag$1 & ! salt waves rose high ov] ! lake1 cool$ d[n to #bj4g1 ?\gh !re 0 no sign ( ice4 ,9 ! night x sn[$ h>d aga91 & on ! #ab?1 :i* 0 made a day ( re/1 ! lake lay blue amid/ a l&scape ( %9+ :ite4 ,:5 all goes well ! ,mohamm$ans read no pray]s4 ,probably !y ?9k t :5 we c help ourselves x is unnecess>y to di/urb ,allah4 ,we _h to pay a horse z toll = ! good pa/urage4 ,he lay froz5 h>d 9 ! camp on ! morn+ ( ! #ac?1 aft] a night temp]ature ( -#ah4d4 ,! yell[ dog rema9$ beside him1 & :5 he came late at night into ! next camp1 he 0 s fat & puff$ up t x 0 evid5t he _h /or$ up food = sev]al days4 ,two rav5s foll[$ u ) _! ho>se croak+4 ,sn[ fell ?ickly & hid ! view4 ,a h]d ( antelopes disappe>$ l %ad[s 9 ! mi/4 ,a %eep di$ on ! way1 & two m _h to be kill$1 = !y 7 worn-out2 we _h n[ only ?ree left4 ,! cold p5etrat$ ev]y:]e 9 ! night1 & ! !rmomet] sank to -#cc4 ,on ,janu>y #ad we made s\?-ea/w>ds ov] a pla9 ( s(t1 tir+ gr\nd1 :i* caus$ u ! loss ( a mule4 ,! c>avan mov$ v sl[ly =w>d & 9 close ord]2 ! animals m>*$ m com=tably :5 !y 7 toge!r2 ^? :i* w\ld l+] beh9d1 ov]come ) fatigue1 7 driv5 =w>d by ! ,ladakis4 ,at camp #cjd ! grass 0 poor1 & two mules seem$ to be ne> _! end4 ,! cold 0 fe>fully %>p 9 ! night4 ,! !rmomet] fell to -#ci4f1 or to ne>ly #dj degrees bel[ z]o1 & almo/ to ! freez+-po9t ( m]cury4 ,t 0 ! l[e/ temp]ature ,i ev] record$ 9 all my j\rneys 9 ,asia4 ,b ,janu>y #ae br\ght a f9e morn+ & an ,italian blue sky4 ,abdul ,k]im & all ! o!r ,mohamm$ans wait$ on me1 9 a tragi-comical procession1 ) dri$ apricots & almonds1 & a simultane\s cry ( ,aid mub>ek1 or ,a bless$ ,fe/ival4 ,"o ( ! fe/ivals ( ,islam fell on ?is day4 ,exce$+ly comical 0 ! procession ( ! f\r ,lamai/s1 :o came up z ! o!rs retir$2 & ,lobsang1 :o l$ !m1 took (f 8 cap & scrat*$ 8 head 9 ,tibetan fa%ion1 b did n put out 8 tongue--he _h no d\bt le>n$ 9 ,leh t ?is p]=mance 0 n pleas+ to a ,european4 ,i gave !m #aj rupees ea* & h&$ ! c>avan ba%i a wat*1 :i* he 0 to w9d up well e ev5+ to be sure ( ! "t4 ,on we m>*$ aga91 mov+ sl[ly1 = ! gr\nd rose4 ,we proce$$ l a fun]al procession1 & ,su5 0 ! p>son4 ,!re 0 no long] reason to fe> ?ir/1 = half ! c\ntry 0 cov]$ ) sn[4 ,b e mile caus$ u a /ruggle1 & x 0 long be=e we came to ! cliff we 7 mak+ =4 ,we left a huge sn[y massive on ! "r h&4 ,next day's m>* took u ov] a flat saddle to a small side valley :]e !re 0 "s grass4 ,! temp]ature _h be5 d[n to -#bi4i1 & ,i c\ld n by any means get life into my feet4 ,sometimes !y a*$1 sometimes !re 0 an uncom=table prick+ 9 my toes1 & !n aga9 !y lo/ all feel+4 ,dur+ ! day's re/ we all[$ ourselves 9 camp #cjf ,tubges %ot an antelope & an ,ovis ,ammon1 a feat :i* prolong$ ! lives ( our la/ two %eep4 ,9 ! ev5+ ! m5 7 *e]ful & hopeful z !y sat ar\nd ! fle%-pot4 ,gulam ,razul _h pres5t$ me ) six bottles ( :isky1 :i*1 sew$ up 9 ?ick felt1 _h be5 br\ght all ! way2 = ,ladakis ma9ta9 t :5 a mule %[s signs ( exhau/ion & weakness x c be cur$ by giv+ x :isky or o!r spirits4 ,b ! bottles 7 heavy1 s ?ree ( !m 7 empti$ & set up z a memorial on "s /ones4 ,p]haps "s "t or o!r !y may be f\nd by ano!r travell]4 ,! o!r ?ree 7 kept4 ,on ! #ah? we cont9u$ to foll[ ! same longitud9al valley4 ,all ! ranges 9 ?is c\ntry run ea/ & we/1 ! usual direction 9 ,tibet4 ,to ! "r 0 a l(ty range we mu/ cross if we w\ld travel s\?-ea/w>ds4 ,?r\gh a gap 9 ! nor!rn m\nta9s 0 visible to ! nor?-ea/ ! mighty sn[y dome we _h pass$ to ! "r ( 9 #aijf4 ,ea/w>ds !re seem$ to be no ob/acle 9 ! way1 b we div]g$ s\?-ea/w>ds up a valley4 ,be=e we encamp$ 7,illu/4 #cja7 ano!r mule _h fall51 & !n we _h lo/ a f\r? ( ! c>avan4 ,next day we proce$$ fur!r up ! valley4 ,sometimes x 0 only #aj y>ds broad betwe5 solid horizontal t]races4 ,bel[ a /eep crag lay five pot-/ones1 & !re=e ,tibetan hunt]s mu/ h come ?us f>4 ,! ,ladakis 7 delight$ to meet ) signs ( human be+s aga94 ,! valley op5$ out into an ext5sive pla91 & a gap 0 se5 to ! s\?-ea/1 b z ! gr\nd 0 l[] t[>ds ! ea/ we turn$ our /eps 9 t direction4 ,f ! l[ ?re%old ! view 0 any?+ b enc\rag+--a _w ( m\nta9s4 ,we resolv$ to encamp :]e we 7 7#ag1dje feet high7 & to try ! o!r1 s\!rn1 passage next day4 ,a mis]able camp6 ,! /orm rag$ s viol5tly t ! t5ts c\ld h>dly be set up1 & ! iron t5t-pegs beat toge!r & rattl$ until !y 7 fix$4 ,we _h fir/ to make a fire be=e we c\ld use our numb$ h&s1 & a small /one wall _h to be rais$ to prev5t ! fire f be+ c>ri$ away4 ,n[ ,nature & ! elem5ts 7 aga9/ u1 :]eas we might 9 ! future expect opposition f man4 ,! pa/ure 0 wret*$1 & a grey horse & ! la/ mule f ,poon* lay dead 9 ! morn+4 ,x 0 ! s5ior ( ! vet]ans1 = x _h come ) me all ! way f ,sr9ag> & _h done good s]vice1 & ,i 0 griev$ at los+ x4 ,n[ !re 0 only "o creature left :i* _h se5 ! fir/ beg9n+ ( ! c>avan1 namely1 our br[n ,puppy4 ,%e & ! little puppy kept me company 9 ?is oppressive1 we>y solitude4 ,f camp #cji1 :]e we /ay$ a day1 !re 0 an un9t]rupt$ view ov] ano!r longitud9al valley1 to ! s\? ( ! =m]4 ,!re lay a contract$ salt lake4 ,at almo/ e camp1 z on ! =m] j\rney1 ,i drew a panorama ( ! surr\nd+s1 & tri$ sometimes to pa9t small wat]-col\r draw+s 7,illu/4 #cjb74 ,!n ,i _h to sit 9 ! op5+ ( ! t5t & hold ! block ov] ! fire to prev5t ! bru% freez+ into a lump ( ice4 ,b ! sky1 :i* %\ld h be5 ( an ev5 blue or grey tone1 usually turn$ into a film ( ice ) /range />s & cry/als4 ,9 camp #caj we also rema9$ a day1 = ! pa/ure 0 bett] ?an we _h f\nd = a long "t4 ,! grass grew 9 s& on ! %ore ( a small fre%wat] lake ) a free op5+1 :]e at l5g? ! animals got a good dr9k aft] hav+ _h to qu5* _! ?ir/ ) sn[4 ,we _h travell$ #ahh miles s9ce ,*ri/mas ,eve1 or ab\t #f miles a day on an av]age--a t]ribly sl[ pace4 ,n[ we _h _h a furi\s /orm = ?ree days1 & "h yell[ :irls ( s& flew ov] ! ice & ! w9d moan$ & ru/l$ ?r\gh ! grass4 ,abdul ,k]im sew$ toge!r a long ,mohamm$an coat = me1 :i* ,i 0 to we> "u my fur :5 ,i assum$ my disguise4 ,on ,janu>y #bd ! :ole c\ntry 0 cov]$ ) dazzl+ sn[ & ! sun %one1 b a /ormy bla/ drove ! f9e sn[ p>ticles 9 /reaks ov] ! l&1 & a ro>+ s\nd 0 he>d4 ,antelopes c>e]$ lightly ov] ! gr\nd1 d>k aga9/ ! :ite sn[4 ,a mule di$ on ! way2 n ev5 ,tibetan mules c be> ?is climate4 ,i 0 b5umb$ & half-dead ) cold be=e ,i rea*$ ! camp4 ,aft] a temp]ature ( -#ba4c ! neighb\rhood 0 envelop$ 9 semi-d>kness by heavy cl\ds4 ,! jagg$ m\nta9s to ! s\? rem9d$ me ( a squadron ( arm\r$ vessels at gunn]y practice 9 ra9y wea!r4 ,_! grey outl9es peep$ out f ! l[ cl\ds4 ,! valley 0 ab\t #f miles broad4 ,t[>ds ! ea/ ! sn[ lay less ?ickly1 & f9ally only ! footpr9ts ( wild animals 7 fill$ ) sn[1 l a /r+ ( pe>ls 9 ! d>k gr\nd4 ,illu/ration3 #cjf4 ,,camp #cjg4 ,illu/ration3 #cjg4 ,,camp #ccc4 ,,! ,,beg9n+ ,,( ,a ,,/orm4 ,illu/ration3 #cjh4 ,,camp #cce4 ,,lem*ung-,,tso1 ,,look+ ,,ea/4 ,illu/ration3 #cji4 ,,camp #dja4 ,,kan*ung-,,gangri ,,f ,,! ,,nor?4 ,9 ! =egr\nd ,lap*ung-tso1 ! s\rce ( ,*aktak- or ,*>ta-tsangpo4 ,z ,i turn ov] ! leaves ( my di>y ( ?is t]rible j\rney h[ (t5 ,i come across ! rem>k t ?is 0 ! h>de/ day we _h hi!rto exp]i5c$4 ,& yet days 7 always com+ :5 we suff]$ /ill m4 ,s x 0 on ,janu>y #bf4 ,! sky 0 cov]$ ) su* compact cl\ds t we might fancy we 7 rid+ "u a prison vault4 ,! /orm rag$ ) undim9i%$ viol5ce1 & a qu>t] ( an h\r aft] ,i _h m\nt$ my horse ,i 0 b5umb$ & p[]less4 ,my h&s a*$1 & ,i tri$ to ?aw my "r h& by brea?+ on x :5ev] ,i _h to take a note1 b aft] read+ ! compass = two seconds my h&s lo/ all feel+4 ,my feet tr\bl$ me less1 = ,i _h no feel+ at all 9 !m4 ,i only hop$ ,i %\ld rea* ! camp be=e ! blood froze 9 my ve9s 7,illu/4 #cje74 ,!n we come at l5g? to ! ,arport-tso & leave ! nor!rn bas9 ( ! lake on our left1 :ile a l>ge bas9 swells out l a fjord t[>ds ! s\?4 ,a m\nta9 spur s5ds out a cape into ! lake1 :i* has a v irregul> outl9e4 ,x /&s 9 our way4 ,%all we leave x on ! "r or left8 ,we come up to ! middle ( ! lake %ore & wait :ile ,lobsang goes to see if ! c>avan c travel ov] ! ice4 ,he hurries =w>d & makes u a sign to foll[4 ,we g d[n to ! bea* & along a spit :i* n>r[s d[n to a f9e po9t4 ,"h ! ice on our left h& has be5 pil$ up into hummocks1 #f feet high1 ( gr& transp>5t gre5 flat slabs1 b on ! "r1 z f> z we c see ov] ! s\!rn bas91 ! ice spreads its level smoo? %eet ( a beautiful d>k gre5 col\r l leaves ( laurel & lilac4 ,we feel ! usual fasc9ation ( ! ice1 & /& & />e d[n into ! d>k cold dep?s4 ,drift+ sn[ sweeps l comets' tails ov] ! smoo? c\rse4 ,we /& on ! v po9t ( ! promontory1 ) ! n>r[e/ "p ( ! ,arport-tso 9 front ( u1 = ! lake is contract$ l a wasp's wai/4 ,"h !re are f5ces1 walls1 & b>ri]s rais$ by ice pressure1 & betwe5 !m sn[ is drift$ up1 h>d & dry on ! surface4 ,x w\ld h be5 q impossible to m>* ov] ! b>e ice2 ! c>avan w\ld h be5 c>ri$ away l *aff be=e ! w9d4 ,b ! sn[ af=ds u an excell5t pa?4 ,lobsang leads ! way1 guid+ u 9 _m a w9d1 b we get across & come to ! f>!r %ore at ! foot ( a cliff4 ,worse foll[$1 = ! rocky po9t fell /raight d[n to ! lake on its ea/]n side1 & "h we _h slipp]y ice swept cle> ( sn[ :i* we s&$4 ,"o horse or mule aft] ano!r slipp$ & fell4 ,"s ( !m made no attempt to get up aga91 b 7 dragg$ ov] ! ice to firm gr\nd1 :]e _! loads 7 put on aga94 ,"s fell ) a heavy ?ud on ! h>d trea*]\s ice4 ,we _h to d\ble a :ole s]ies ( po9ts 9 ?is way till we came to "o :]e fur!r progress 0 impossible1 = at its foot issu$ =? spr+s :i* produc$ l>ge op5+s 9 ! ice4 ,!re icy cold waves beat ) a %>p s\nd aga9/ ! edges ( ! ice "u ! la% ( ! w9d1 :i* drove cont9ually cl\ds ( sn[ danc+ l elves ov] ! d>k gre5 field ( ice4 ,we _h to /ruggle up ov] /eep slopes till at la/ we rea*$1 ?or\ghly tir$ out1 an inlet :]e a few leaves ( grass grew4 ,we _h left a mule on ! ice1 & two m5 w5t back & gave x a drop ( :isky s t x c\ld come on to ! camp4 ,b my br[n horse f ,%igatse1 :i* _h s (t5 c>ri$ me up to ! ea/ gate ( ,ta%i-lunpo1 rema9$ beh9d = good4 ,x is sad & depress+ :5 a vet]an dies4 ,arport-tso lies at a height ( #ag1chb feet4 ,! wat]1 :i* 0 drawn f an op5+ 9 ! ice1 0 q potable4 ,!re 0 a high pass 9 front ( u to ! s\?-ea/1 b we c\ld n rea* x 9 "o day1 & we camp$ on ! pla9 at ! s\?-ea/ ( ! lake :]e ,rawl+ _h once /ay$4 ,x 0 little m ?an a mile ?i!r1 b ! grass 0 good & ! animals ne$$ n\ri%m5t4 ,x sn[$ ?ickly all day4 ,x 0 w>m & com=table "u cov]1 & we piti$ ! poor animals :i* 7 out graz+ 9 ! cold4 ,! small puppy _h gr[n s mu* t he c\ld w&] alone betwe5 ! t5ts wat*+ = an opportunity to /eal meat4 ,a %eep 0 slaught]$4 ,at night ! cold 0 m sev]e aga91 & ! !rmomet] sank to -#cj4c4 ,! sick mule s\ght %elt] beh9d ! m5's t5t1 lay d[n at once1 & gave v5t to a pite\s s\nd4 ,i w5t out to look at x1 & caus$ x to be put out ( its mis]y4 ,illu/ration3 #caj4 ,,my ,,dy+ ,,pony4 ,sket*$ by ! ,au?or4 ,on ! morn+ ( ! #bh? we f\nd two horses dead on ! grass4 ,"o 0 "o ( ! vet]ans ( ,leh :i* ,rob]t _h ridd51 & :i* also bore me to ! spr+s 9 ! ,sutlej b$4 ,we _h n[ only tw5ty-?ree animals left1 & my small :ite ,ladaki 0 ! la/ ( ! vet]ans4 ,little ,i ?\ght1 z he c>ri$ me ov] ! ,*ang-lung-yogma1 t he w\ld survive a hundr$ & fifty comrades4 ,e morn+ two long icicles hung d[n f 8 no/rils4 ,he 0 tak5 great c>e (1 & ,i always sav$ a piece ( bread f my breakfa/ = him4 ,i _h a p>ticul> affection = him & = ,br[n ,puppy4 ,!y _h be5 ) me s long1 & _h pass$ ?r\gh s _m adv5tures4 ,a loss ( ?ree animals 9 "o day 0 s]i\s = su* a c>avan z ours4 ,h[ w\ld x all end8 ,we _h /ill an imm5se di/ance be=e u4 ,we /ruggl$ = ?ree h\rs ) halt+ /eps up ?is t]rible pass :i* _h a height ( #ah1bha feet4 ,we encamp$ 9 ! %elt] ( a rock & kill$ ! la/ worn-out %eep1 & !n _h no live /ore ( meat4 ,! temp]ature fell to -#bd4e1 & ! fir/ s\nd ,i he>d 9 ! morn+ ( ! #bi? 0 ! ev]la/+ h[l ( ! /orm4 ,we m>*$ s\?-ea/w>ds ?r\gh sn[ a foot deep4 ,"o ( our wor/ days1 x is /yl$ 9 my di>y4 ,we c>$ ab\t no?+ except to get to our camp alive4 ,i _h a sc>f w\nd sev]al times ov] my face1 b x 0 quickly turn$ into a %eet ( ice1 :i* crack$ :5 ,i turn$ my head4 ,i tri$ to smoke a cig>ette1 b x froze on to my lips4 ,two horses di$ on ! way1 & ,abdul ,k]im's horse took ov] ! load ( "o ( !m1 :ile ! man himself w5t on foot l ! o!rs4 ,i foll[$ ! track ( ! c>avan ) ,kutus4 ,!n we f\nd ,kun*uk ,sonam & ,su5 unable to g fur!r2 !y suff]$ f pa9s at ! he>t4 ,i tri$ to *e] !m up1 & promis$ to give !m m$ic9e if !y w\ld foll[ sl[ly 9 ! track ( ! c>avan4 ,0 x n[ ! turn ( ! m5 aft] half ! c>avan _h be5 lo/8 ,q ov]come ) fatigue !y hobbl$ at twilight into camp4 ,abdul ,k]im came into my t5t v ca/ d[n & ask$ if we %\ld fall 9 ) nomads )9 t5 days1 = o!rwise he consid]$ our condition desp]ate4 ,9 tru?1 ,i c\ld give him no consolation1 b c\ld only tell him t we mu/ g on z long z !re 0 a s+le mule left1 & !n try to drag ourselves along to ! nomads ) z mu* food z we c\ld c>ry4 ,n[ we ?\ght no long] ( pursu]s beh9d1 or ( dang]s be=e u1 b only wi%$ to pres]ve our lives & come to c\ntry :]e we c\ld f9d means ( subsi/5ce4 ,beh9d u ! sn[ oblit]at$ our tracks1 & ! future await$ u ) its imp5etrable secrets4 ,,*apt] ,,lix ,,9 ,,! ,,sn[ ,! /orm h[l$ r\nd u all night long1 & our ?9 t5t canvas flutt]$ 9 ! bla/4 ,gulam awak$ me ) ! in=mation1 ,x is na/y wea!r to-day2 we c see no?+4 ,ev5 ! ne>e/ m\nta9s 7 hidd5 by ! sn[1 & if ,i _h n already tak5 a be>+ along ! valley 9 ! direction s\?1 #ce ,e41 we c\ld n h set out4 ,?is day1 ,janu>y #cj1 we _h to keep toge!r1 = ! driv+ sn[ oblit]at$ ! tracks imm$iately4 ,we _h two lead]s1 & ,i rode la/ along ! trail1 :i* at fir/ 0 m>k$ z a black w9d+ l9e1 b f>!r on1 :]e ! sn[ lay #b feet deep1 no gr\nd or rubbi% c\ld be se54 ,a br[n horse :i* c>ri$ no burd5 lay d[n & di$ 9 ! sn[4 ,we c\ld see ! sn[ mak+ ready its grave be=e x 0 cold4 ,x vani%$ beh9d u 9 ! dreadful solitude4 ,we move =w>ds at a v sl[ pace ?r\gh ! sn[drifts4 ,! fury ( ! /orm c>ries away ! w>n+ %\ts f ! lips ( ! guides & !y d n rea* our e>s2 we simply foll[ ! trail4 ,lobsang goes fir/1 & he (t5 disappe>s 9 ! dry loose sn[ & has to seek ano!r direction4 ,9 ! holl[s ! sn[ lies #c feet deep1 & we c take only "o /ep at a "t aft] ! spades h cut u a dit* ?r\gh ! sn[4 ,"o or o!r ( ! animals is always fall+1 & ! removal ( 8 load & readju/+ x causes a block1 = all mu/ foll[ 9 ! same furr[4 ,all1 m5 & animals1 are half-dead ) fatigue & lab\r = brea?4 ,! sn[ sweeps r\nd u 9 suffocat+ wrea?s2 we turn our backs to ! w9d & lean =w>ds4 ,only ! ne>e/ mules are pla9ly visible1 ! fif? is indi/9ct1 & ^? at ! front are se5 only z slight %ad[s amid/ ! univ]sal :it5ess4 ,i _c cat* a glimpse ( ! guides4 ,?us ! troop passes on a few /eps till x comes to ! next block1 & :5 ! mule imm$iately 9 front ( me moves on aga9 x is only to plunge into a holl[ fill$ ) sn[1 :]e two m5 wait to keep up its load4 ,! direction is n[ ea/ & ! gr\nd rises4 ,a few su* days & ! c>avan w be lo/ 7,illu/4 #cab74 ,at l5g? we come to a l[ pass 7#ah1bfh feet high74 ,ev5 at sea-level su* a j\rney w\ld be h>d en\gh1 b h[ mu* worse x is 9 a c\ntry :i* lies "s hundr$s ( feet high] ?an ,mont ,blanc1 & :]e !re is no?+ b granite4 ,on ! ea/]n side ( ! saddle ! sn[ lay #c feet deep 9 "s places1 & x seem$ z ?\gh we %\ld be /uck fa/ 9 ! sn[drifts2 & :at _h we to expect !n8 ,= ! prov5d] 0 com+ to an end1 & we mu/ g on if we w\ld f9d pa/ure4 ,n[ we w5t g5tly d[n1 ! sn[ became a little less deep1 & we came to an expansion ( ! valley :]e !re 7 /ret*es ( gr\nd swept b>e by ! bla/4 ,on ! "r appe>$ a slope :]e ,abdul ,k>im ?\ght he saw blades ( grass /ick+ up out ( ! sn[1 & he ask$ p]mission to camp4 ,x 0 difficult to set up ! t5ts t ev5+4 ,at dusk ! two sick m5 came up1 _! faces blue & swoll54 ,a mis]able camp6 ,! /orm increas$ to a hurricane1 & no?+ c\ld be he>d b its h[l+4 ,:5 ,i look$ out ( my t5t ,i c\ld see no?+ t 0 n :ite1 & !re 0 no diff]5ce betwe5 ! gr\nd1 ! m\nta9s1 & ! sky--all be+ alike :ite4 ,n ev5 ! m5's t5t c\ld be di/+ui%$ 9 ! driv+ sn[4 ,! f9e p>ticles p5etrat$ into ! t5t & cov]$ ev]y?+ ) a :ite p[d]4 ,x 0 impossible to look = fuel1 & at ?ree o'clock ! temp]ature 9 ! t5t 0 #a4d4 ,i c\ld see no?+ liv+ outside1 & ,i might h be5 q alone 9 ?is wild]ness4 ,illu/ration3 #caa4 ,,lo/ ,,beyond ,,recov]y4 ,my tru/y ,gulam comes1 h[ev]1 at l5g? ) fire1 = ,lobsang & ,s$ik h f\nd "s bru%wood4 ,gulam says t ,sonam ,kun*uk is ready to lay himself d[n on ! sn[ & die1 b ,i advise him to take a good dose ( qu99e in/ead4 ,late at night ! tones ( ! hymn to ,allah rea* my e>s1 s\nd+ s(t] & sadd] ?an usual amid ! rag+ ( ! /orm4 ,we are mov+ t[>ds a d>k de/9y1 ,i h attempt$ too mu*1 & any mom5t ! cata/rophe may come4 ,we are sn[$ up "h1 ! animals mu/ die ( />vation & ,i myself--well1 x is b a "q ( "t4 ,a little bel[ ! camp ! valley made a turn to ! "r4 ,?i!r ! animals _h gone at night1 b came back z !re 0 no graz+4 ,a grey mule _h /ay$ beh9d to die4 ,x lay 9 a curi\s position1 z ?\gh x _h di$ 9 ! act ( gett+ up--on its knees ) its nose press$ aga9/ ! gr\nd1 & 0 froz5 h>d 9 ?is position4 ,yet ! temp]ature fell only to -#af4d4 ,! /orm cont9u$ ) undim9i%$ viol5ce on ,janu>y #ca4 ,we load$ ! n9ete5 mules & horses & m>*$ d[n ! valley at r&om 9 ! same d5se sn[4 ,! sn[ came d[n 9 incr$ible quantities2 su* a sn[/orm ,i _h nev] witness$ ev5 on ! ,pamir4 ,we c\ld n travel m ?an #b miles1 & !n we halt$ & pit*$ ! t5ts1 :i* look$ dirty aga9/ ! pure sn[4 ,f\r big wild yaks 7 mov+ ov] ! slopes1 tramp+ l sn[-pl\ghs4 ,! dogs made aft] !m1 b soon gave up ! *ase1 = !y c\ld n g f> 9 ! drifts4 ,! animals receiv$ _! all[ance ( rice1 & !n trail$ (f to a hill :]e !y pok$ ab\t = ! scanty grass4 ,i exam9$ all ! baggage ) ! help ( ,abdul ,k]im & ,gulam1 & disc>d$ all t c\ld be sp>$4 ,unnecess>y clo?+ & worn-out boots 7 burn$1 & res]ve g>m5ts 7 br\ght out4 ,my articles1 note-books1 & in/rum5ts 7 /uff$ into two small sacks4 ,writ+ mat]ials & o!r ?+s = daily use 7 pack$ 9 a small h&bag f ,/ockholm4 ,! o!r *e/s 7 us$ z firewood1 :5 ! m5 _h /ripp$ (f ! lea!r cov]+s to make new %oe-soles4 ,ev5 ! box = ! cook+ ut5sils & ! provision boxes 7 burn$1 & all ! baggage 0 h5ce=? c>ri$ 9 sacks4 ,by ?is means ! loads 7 made light] & m conv5i5t1 ?\gh !re 0 m tr\ble 9 turn+ ev]y?+ out ( a sack :5 any?+ 0 want$ f ! bottom4 ,9 ! aft]noon !re 0 a %ort break 9 ! sn[/orm4 ,beyond ! :ite limits ( ! valley 0 se5 to ! s\?-ea/ ! l>ge lake ,%em5-tso1 ) a d>k purple sky above x1 presag+ m sn[4 ,i took be>+s ( ! next day's r\te1 & x 0 well ,i did s1 = soon ! sn[ began to fall aga9 unusually ?ickly4 ,x sn[$ all day & all night1 & a swi%+ s\nd 0 he>d z ! sn[flakes 7 driv5 by ! w9d aga9/ ! canvas ( ! t5t & f "t to "t slipp$ d[n4 ,9 ! morn+ ( ,febru>y #a piles ( sn[ lay r\nd ! t5ts4 ,! m9imum temp]ature 0 only -#j4h1 & x felt q pleasant4 ,we load$ our we>y hungry pack animals & m>*$ sl[ly s\?-ea/w>ds4 ,! gale blew f ! s\?1 & ! sn[ pelt$ on to our faces4 ,sil5tly & heavily ! fa9t+ troop mov$ on t[>ds ! lake4 ,all ! m5's be>ds & m\/a*es 7 :ite ) rime1 & we seem$ all to h turn$ grey 9 a night4 ,abdul ,k]im walk$ 9 front ) 8 /aff1 b he took a wrong direction1 & ,i *ose ano!r lead]4 ,9 "s places we 7 ne>ly suffocat$ 9 ! sn[1 & ! cre/fall5 m5 /ood 9 ! drifts1 at a loss :at to d4 ,b we plung$ & fl\nd]$ on a bit1 & !n /ood /ill2 !n a little bit fur!r4 ,! pass ov] :i* we _h made our way ! previ\s day 0 no d\bt block$ by sn[4 ,_h we rea*$ x two days lat] we %\ld nev] h =c$ a way ov] x4 ,n[ our retreat 0 cut (f1 & we mu/ seek safety s\?w>ds4 ,x 0 "s consolation to "k t we _h burn$ our %ips4 ,illu/ration3 #cab4 ,,if ,,?is ,,cont9ues ,a ,,few ,,days ,,long]1 ,,we ,,are ,,lo/4 ,=tunately ! gr\nd slop$ d[n1 & z we toil$ on h\r aft] h\r ! sn[ dim9i%$ & travell+ became easi]4 ,b ! /orm1 :i* _h n[ rag$ = a =tnight1 %[$ no signs ( abatem5t4 ,d[n on ! we/]n flat by ! lake ! sn[ mantle 0 ?91 & we encamp$ 9 a spot :]e ! grass 0 n bad4 ,i gave ! m5 "s cig>ettes e ev5+--at o!r times !y smok$ yak-dung & fill$ _! n>ghils ) tea-leaves4 ,! night 0 unusually mild1 ) ! m9imum temp]ature only #e4b1 b ! cl\ds 7 z d5se z ev] & ! sn[ fell unceas+ly4 ,x 0 d>k all day1 z ?\gh a curta9 hung ov] ! =bidd5 l&4 ,we /ay$ at camp #cai4 ,! /orm blew f ! s\?-we/ m wildly ?an usual4 ,! animals graz$ ) _! heads to leew>d1 & _h to be driv5 w9dw>ds aga9 e "t !y came to ! edge ( ! re/rict$ area ( grass4 ,on ,febru>y #c1 also1 we rema9$ :]e we 74 ,all night long ! hurricane _h rag$1 te>+1 rav+1 pl\gh+ up ! gr\nd l a gigantic pl\gh1 & endeav\r+ to pull d[n our t5ts4 ,9 ! ev5+ ,i secur$ ev]y?+ t c\ld fly away if ! t5t 7 ov]?r[n4 ,9 ! morn+ all ! animals _h disappe>$ z ?\gh !y _h be5 c>ri$ away by ! bla/2 at any rate1 !y _h gone ) ! w9d to ! nor!rn %ore ( ! lake4 ,imm$iately beyond our camp 0 a spr+ ( fre% wat] & a r\nd fold = %eep4 ,i _h ceas$ to look =w>d to spr+1 x seem$ s hopelessly di/ant1 & to be f>!r (f e day t pass$4 ,br[n ,puppy & ,little ,puppy kept me company z usual1 & we play$ toge!r to pass ! h\rs ( our imprisonm5t4 ,gulam cont9u$ to rub my feet1 b ) little result1 = !y rema9$ numb & cold z ice4 ,!n he br\ght two pairs ( paipaks ( ?ick felt & a pair ( *>uks or ,y>k& boots ( s(t lea!r outside4 ,!y 7 really w>m] ?an my ,ka%mir boots1 :i* 7 ru?lessly burn$4 ,,*apt] ,,lx ,,dea? ,,( ,,! ,,la/ ,,vet]an ,/udd$ ) tw9kl+ />s ! w9t] sky /ret*$ its d>k-blue canopy ov] our lonesome camp1 & #ej degrees ( fro/ =etold a cle> day4 ,on ,febru>y #d n a cl\d hov]$ ov] ! m\nta9s1 & ?is plateau1 ab&on$ by gods & m51 :i* _h lately be5 buri$ "u ! :ite %r\d ( w9t]1 0 aga9 illum9$ by bright sunlight4 ,sad news 0 br\ght me 9 ! morn+3 a horse & a mule lay dead beside ! t5ts4 ,) ! sev5te5 rema9+ animals we cont9u$ our j\rney along ! irregul> nor!rn %ore ( ! ,%em5-tso 7#af1bff feet74 ,! quantity ( sn[ became less1 & at camp #cbj ! gravelly gr\nd 0 almo/ b>e4 ,! view ov] ! lake 0 gr&4 ,capta9 ,rawl+'s map ( ?is di/rict is execut$ ) great accuracy4 ,on ,febru>y #e1 also1 we encamp$ on ! %ore ( ! great lake1 hav+ foll[$ ! curves ( its bays & capes4 ,a mule di$ on ! way4 ,?\gh we _h burn$ all we c\ld disp5se )1 yet ! loads 7 mu* too heavy = ! surviv+ animals4 ,a big /rong mule always l$ ! van1 at ! heels ( ,gulam2 x c>ri$ at lea/ two ord9>y loads1 & yet 0 fat & fre%4 ,!re 0 no sign ( human be+s4 ,a flock ( jackdaws 7 p]*$ on a crag4 ,at ! camp ! provisions 7 inspect$1 & we decid$ to rel9qui% ?ree heavy sacks ( rice4 ,! rice 0 to be giv5 on ! foll[+ days1 mix$ ) p>*$ meal & wat]1 to ! animals4 ,( my provisions1 only two boxes ( t9n$ meat1 "s jam & biscuits1 7 left4 ,we _h n ta/$ meat = "s "t4 ,! /orm rag$ all day & ! sun _h vani%$ aga94 ,on ,febru>y #f we pass$ a v abundant spr+ ( wat] at a temp]ature ( #df4b1 :i* p\r$ into ! lake4 ,!re flocks ( %eep _h rec5tly drunk1 & r[s ( cairns ran f ! %ore to guide antelopes into ! traps 9 ! gr\nd4 ,n[ no game 0 se5 except a s+le kiang4 ,a mule di$1 & ,abdul ,k]im's yell[ horse fell by ! way4 ,only f\rte5 animals rea*$ ! camp ?is day1 & ( ^! my small :ite ,ladaki 0 9 ! wor/ plight2 he /umbl$ & fell1 & ,i made a som]sault ov] 8 head4 ,! day aft]1 we made a %ort j\rney1 left ! lake & its b>r5 %ore beh9d u1 & set up our t5ts amid good grass4 ,! wea!r 0 f9e2 at "o o'clock ! temp]ature 0 #ad1 & x felt z ?\gh spr+ _h come4 ,all ! animals lay d[n to re/ & w>m !mselves 9 ! sun4 ,only my small ,ladaki began to graze imm$iately2 he w\ld n die1 b w\ld foll[ me to ! end4 ,wild asses & antelopes graz$ on ! /eppe1 & h>es 7 pl5tiful4 ,i 0 al>m$ by a message t ?ree m5 c\ld be se5 at "s di/ance to ! nor?1 & ! c>avan ba%i wi%$ me to come & exam9e !m ?r\gh my field-glass4 ,app>5tly !y 7 on ! way to our camp4 ,b ,i _h pl5ty ( "t to put on my disguise4 ,i wat*$ !m a long "t1 till at la/ !y turn$ into ?ree wild yaks :i* _h be5 l5g!n$ out by mirage4 ,we _h no ne$ yet to tr\ble ourselves ab\t m51 b p]haps ^! yaks 7 =]unn]s4 ,n[ ,i _h ridd5 my small :ite horse = ! la/ "t4 ,on ,febru>y #h1 :5 we cont9u$ our m>* ea/-s\?-ea/ aft] a m9imum temp]ature ( -#ah4i he foll[$ ! c>avan loose & unlad51 & fell ev5 )\t a rid]4 ,i rode in/ead a grey horse f ,tikze4 ,we made b>ely #e miles1 b yet ! j\rney 0 full ( ev5ts4 ,on ! o!r side on a l[ hill /ood a ,pan?olops antelope1 :i* did n run away ?\gh we 7 q close4 ,we soon notic$ t x 0 held fa/ & 0 /ruggl+ to get free4 ,! dogs ru%$ at x1 b a c\ple ( m5 hurri$ on to keep !m (f4 ,! animal 0 fa/ 9 a sn>e laid 9 an antelope track1 :]e also we notic$ fre% footpr9ts ( two m54 ,we 7 evid5tly n f> f w9t] hunt]s1 :o p]haps _h already caught sight ( u4 ,p]haps !y _h se5 me1 ! only "o rid+ 9 ,european dress4 ,p]haps x 0 too late to disguise myself4 ,all my plans w\ld !n be spoil$1 & all ! lab\rs ( ! w9t] lo/4 ,b at any rate we _h n[ fre% meat4 ,let u exam9e ! +5i\s trap 9 :i* ! game is caught4 ,plates ( rib bones ( antelopes are firmly fix$ 9 a r+ ( h>d twi/$ vegetable fibres1 :i* =m a funnel ) ! po9ts 9 a dit*4 ,! antelope is entic$ into ! trap by a r[ ( small cairns1 & tramps ab\t 9 ! funnel1 ! plates giv+ way1 b =m+ immovable imp$im5ts :5 he attempts to draw 8 ho(s out4 ,b ! sn>e mu/ be held secure if x is to h ! desir$ effect4 ,a rope z ?ick z a f+] is made fa/ 9 ! bottom ( ! dit*1 :i* is fill$ ) wat]1 & aft] freez+ becomes z h>d z /one4 ,! free end ( ! rope =ms a noose above ! r+ ( fibres1 :i* tight5s :5 ! animal fir/ attempts to lift 8 leg & holds d[n ! funnel ( ribs4 ,! m ! poor animal jumps ab\t1 ! fa/] is ! hold ( ! twi/$ sn>e4 ,! victim 0 sla92 ! dogs ate _! fill ( ! entrails1 & ! meat made ord9>y loads = f\r m54 ,!n we w5t on4 ,at ! m\? ( a valley to ! s\? 7 se5 a %eepfold & two black specks we took = /ones4 ,beyond a grass-gr[n m\nd we f\nd a pool ( fre% wat]1 & we pit*$ ! camp ne> x4 ,x 0 n long be=e ! ,ladakis 7 sitt+ r\nd a fire & roa/+ pieces ( delicate1 mu*-appreciat$ meat4 ,n[1 :5 we 7 evid5tly 9 ! neighb\rhood ( human be+s1 x 0 "t = me to give directions to my p4 ,all 7 summon$ to my t5t4 ,i told !m t we %\ld succe$ 9 cross+ ! =bidd5 l& only by craft9ess & cauti\sness1 & t ,i _h made ! great sacrifices :i* !y _h witness$ only to see regions :]e no ,sahib _h ev] be54 ,if our s*eme 7 to be successful1 e man mu/ d 8 duty & play 8 "p well4 ,:5ev] ,tibetans put ! usual que/ions1 :5ce we came & :i!r we 7 go+1 !y %\ld answ] t we 7 all1 )\t exception1 ,ladakis1 9 ! s]vice ( a m]*ant nam$ ,gulam ,razul1 :o _h s5t u to ,*ang-tang to f9d out h[ mu* wool c\ld be b\ght f ! nomads next summ]4 ,abdul ,k]im 0 our lead] & *ief1 & _h to manage our affairs4 ,he 0 !re=e giv5 #ajj rupees = exp5ses1 & e ev5+ :5 no "o c\ld spy ^u u he 0 to r5d] an acc\nt to me4 ,i myself 0 "o ( 8 s]vants1 a ,mohamm$an nam$--,abdurrahman1 ! c>avan ba%i sugge/$--b no2 ,hajji ,baba s\nd$ bett] to me4 ,accord+ly1 :5 we came among ,tibetans1 !y %\ld nev] =get & call me ,sahib1 b only ,hajji ,baba4 ,all und]/ood ! matt] & promis$ to d _! be/4 ,a little lat]1 ,lobsang came runn+ up & decl>$ t ! two black /ones 7 t5ts4 ,we w5t out & exam9$ !m ?r\gh ! field-glass4 ,q true2 smoke rose f "o ( !m1 b nei!r m5 nor animals 7 visible4 ,i at once ord]$ ,abdul ,k]im1 ,abdul ,rasak1 & ,kutus to g & pay = ! antelope1 buy any?+ !y c\ld1 & obta9 in=mation4 ,!y soon came back aga9 & ask$ if x w\ld n be wis] to avoid ! t5ts & m>* on ea/w>ds1 ! m s t ! inmates might be robb]s4 ,no2 ^! m5 _h se5 u & might s5d a report to ,rudok1 & !n we %\ld be /opp$4 ,x 0 be/1 !n1 to ent] into fri5dly relations ) ! m5 & lull !m into security4 ,bismillah1 cri$ ! ?ree & took !mselves (f1 :ile ! o!rs sat by ! fire 9 lively conv]sation ab\t ! incid5ts ( ! day & ! prospects ( ! future4 ,x 0 n[ sixty-f\r days s9ce we _h left ! la/ village 9 ,ladak1 :ile on ! =m] j\rney we _h be5 9 solitude = eighty-"o days4 ,aft] ?ree h\rs my m5 return$4 ,! two t5ts conta9$ n9e inmates--two gr[n-up m51 two wom51 ?ree girls1 & two boys4 ,! old] man 0 nam$ ,purung ,kungga1 & he own$ #aej %eep & #d dogs1 b no o!r animals4 ,dur+ _! j\rney f ,yildan _! t5ts & goods 7 c>ri$ by %eep4 ,!y _h arriv$ two mon?s be=e1 & int5d$ to /ay half a mon? m4 ,! day be=e !y _h j be5 to look at _! antelope trap1 :5 !y 7 al>m$ at ! sight ( ! c>avan4 ,!y took x = grant$ t only robb]s c\ld be travell+ 9 ?is di/rict1 :i* lay outside ! haunts ( hone/ & hon\rable m54 ,! antelope _h1 !n1 be5 n m ?an an h\r 9 ! trap4 ,abdul ,k]im paid #c rupees = x1 #c = a %eep1 & #a = milk & butt]4 ,we c\ld get m milk e>ly 9 ! morn+1 b we %\ld h to s5d = x1 = ! nomads d>$ n come to our t5ts4 ,we might h kept ! antelope )\t comp5sation1 = we 7 wayf>]s & _h a "r to take :at we f\nd4 ,9 answ] to _! inquiry :o we 71 ,abdul ,k]im repeat$ ! y>n he _h j le>n$4 ,! c\ntry ab\t camp #cbd is call$ ,rio*ung4 ,9 "o ( ! t5ts lay ! hides & meat ( n9e antelopes4 ,! p liv$ almo/ exclusively on ! game !y caught 9 _! sn>es4 ,s f> we _h be5 =tunate4 ,) provisions = tw5ty-"o days in/ead ( = sev5ty-five1 we _h /ruggl$ up to ! ,k>akorum in/ead ( f9d+ a passage to ! ea/2 we _h be5 p]secut$ by rag+ /orms1 bit+ cold1 & deep sn[ all ! way1 & yet we _h light$ on ! fir/ m54 ,!y 7 l a rock 9 ! ocean1 & n[ aga9 we 7 to v5ture ov] ! rag+ waves4 ,?is day f\nd u only a few miles up a g5tly slop+ valley fill$ ) ice4 ,little ,puppy 0 let loose & _h to look aft] himself a bit4 ,b he 0 soon tir$1 & lay d[n till ,kun*uk fet*$ him4 ,febru>y #aj4 ,! valley bottom is full ( ice %eets1 :i* we (t5 cross aft] !y h be5 /rewn ) s&4 ,we w&] ?r\gh a labyr9? ( clay hills4 ,9 an expansion to ! left are se5 ?ree /one cab9s & "s mani heaps2 "h is ! gold plac] :i* ,rawl+ calls ,rungma-tok1 & ! hunt]s we saw ye/]day ,getsa-rung4 ,! gold-digg]s come hi!r only 9 summ]4 ,! camp to-day1 ,no4 #cbf1 is 9 an excell5t spot1 ) a s&y soil1 pl5ty ( fuel1 & an unfroz5 brook4 ,x is pleasant to li/5 to ! purl+ wat]1 a sign ( approa*+ spr+4 ,ea/ & s\?-ea/ rises a wrea? ( l(ty m\nta9s1 :i* we h to surm\nt4 ,z long z ! gr\nd is flat & !re is grass ! animals d v well1 b !y _c endure a high pass4 ,my :ite ,ladaki has pick$ up aga91 & ! m5 are ord]$ to t5d him c>efully4 ,febru>y #aa4 ,we asc5d ! valley1 & ! sn[ becomes deep] aga94 ,9 "o place are se5 fre% tracks ( ?ree m54 ,we camp beh9d a cliff to get %elt] f ! w9d1 b fir/ we h to cross ! ice belt 9 ! valley bottom1 :]e a pa? has be5 rec5tly s&$4 ,x is evid5t t we %all soon fall 9 ) m5--p]haps on ! m>* betwe5 ! two camps4 ,!re=e ,i put on my new ,ladaki co/ume ) a girdle r\nd ! wai/4 ,! :ite turban is kept ready at h& 9 case we meet ,tibetans4 ,! *apkan looks suspici\sly clean1 b ,gulam und]takes to soil x ) fat & soot4 ,my s(t lea!r ve/ is sacrific$ & cut up = soles4 ,aft] ?is camp ,lobsang & ,kutus 7 requir$ to give me e ev5+ lessons 9 ,tibetan1 & ,i arrang$ all ! new words 9 a vocabul>y1 :i* aft]w>ds grew to a consid]able size4 ,?us we sp5t a c\ple ( h\rs ea* day :5 all my lit]ature 0 at an end4 ,i especially practis$ ! answ]s ,i 0 to give 9 case ,i1 ,hajji ,baba1 7 subject$ to cross-exam9ation4 ,on ! #ab? we m>*$ up ?r\gh ! sn[drifts 9 ! valley1 :]e small1 graceful1 elegant ,goa antelopes 7 se5 on two occasions4 ,! camp+-gr\nd 0 s wret*$ t all ! animals w&]$ back 9 ! night to ! =m] camp1 & !re=e ! next day 0 lo/1 & we wait$ we>ily4 ,9 my grey *apkan ,i am too conspicu\s among ! o!r ragamuff9s1 & :5ev] ,i h an opportunity ,i sme> soot & butt] on x & cut holes 9 x "h & !re4 ,a cont9uation ( su* treatm5t w at l5g? make x z disreputable z ! o!rs4 ,i also try to leave (f wa%+ my face & h&s1 b d n succe$ 9 look+ z dirty z my m54 ,) !m ! dirt seems to be engra9$ & nev] to be remov$1 & !y c\ld gr[ potatoes "u _! nails4 ,my desire 0 to become l !m z soon z possible1 t ,i might escape ! notice ( ! ,tibetans4 ,febru>y #ad4 ,temp]ature -#bb4i4 ,aga9 we are a few miles ne>] our de/9ation & a day ne>] spr+4 ,our progress is sl[1 b we mu/ be glad t we c get along at all4 ,camp #cbi is 9 ! valley lead+ to ! pass1 :i* we h tak5 sev]al days to rea*4 ,a mule is fatigu$ & is reliev$ ( 8 load4 ,"s grass is aga9 f\nd1 & all ! animals g out to graze1 except my small ,ladaki1 :i* /&s beside my t5t ) droop+ head & icicles "u 8 eyes4 ,he has be5 weep+1 kn[+ well t he w nev] be able to cross ov] ! pass & t we %all leave him4 ,i sit beside him = sev]al h\rs1 patt+ & /rok+ him1 & try+ to induce him to eat lumps ( meal mix$ ) rice4 ,he revives aga9 & goes sl[ly aft] 8 comrades4 ,febru>y #ae4 ,temp]ature -#bb4e4 ,a h>d1 toilsome day4 ,?r\gh ice & sn[ among %>p detritus we m>* up ! valley4 ,my :ite horse leads ! way ( 8 own accord & ,i ride 9 ! re>4 ,we keep toge!r = "s "t1 & asc5d /ep by /ep t[>ds ! tr\blesome pass4 ,b fir/ "o & !n ano!r lags beh9d4 ,among !m is my :ite horse4 ,i /op & :isp] 9 pure ,sw$i% into 8 e>3 ,d n lose c\rage2 put out all y\r /r5g? & climb ! pass1 & !n y w g d[n 9 a few days to f9e ri* pa/ure4 ,he raises 8 head1 pricks up 8 e>s1 & gazes at me z ,i g on up to ! pass ) ,kutus & ,gulam4 ,only a c\ple ( lively mules foll[ my horse & halt :]e he halts1 at e tw5tie? /ep4 ,at la/ we came up to ! flat pass1 :i* atta9s to ! consid]able height ( #ah1eec feet4 ,"h we wait$ a long "t4 ,! l>ge black mule pass$ fir/ ov] ! sn[y ?re%old ( ! pass & !n ! o!rs1 till n9e baggage animals _h gone by & my grey ,tikze horse la/4 ,abdul ,k]im report$ t f\r animals 7 ?or\ghly tir$ out4 ,i ord]$ t !y %\ld be l$ /ep by /ep ev5 till night if necess>y1 & he w5t d[n to !m aga94 ,a little lat] appe>$ ,tubges & ,abdullah c>ry+ two loads4 ,"o ( ! f\r animals _h already dep>t$ ?is life4 ,to ! we/-nor?-we/1 ! direction f :i* we _h come1 ! view 0 magnific5t--a sea ( wild1 r$1 gigantic undulations1 ) sn[ cr[n+ ! summits & /ream+ d[n _! sides4 ,dur+ ! la/ days we _h notic$ s*i/s1 porphyry1 r$ & grey granite4 ,! c\ntry 0 absolutely b>r51 & we mu/ try to rea* ! ne>e/ grass 9 ! desc5d+ valley1 b x 0 full ( sn[1 & ! tra9 mov$ sl[ly & we>ily ?r\gh ! drifts4 ,i w5t on foot l ! re/2 e man c>ri$ a load to help ! animals4 ,all 7 sil5t1 & tramp$ & balanc$ !mselves 9 ! track m>k$ by ! lead]4 ,! valley contract$ to a dit*1 & :]e ! fir/ yak-moss grew we ?rew d[n our burd5s4 ,a sorry camp 9 ! close dismal valley4 ,! la/ animals /ood ti$ toge!r1 & 7 f$ ) pulv]iz$ yak-dung & moss mix$ ) meal & rice4 ,at dusk ! o!r m5 came up lead+ a mule4 ,?ree animals 7 gone1 & "o ( !m 0 my small :ite ,ladaki horse4 ,he _h /ruggl$ up to ! v top ( ! pass1 :]e ,i _h sat wat*+ = him 9 va91 & !n _h laid himself d[n to die4 ,he _h s]v$ me & c>ri$ me fai?fully & pati5tly = a ye> & a half1 & _h nev] f ! fir/ be5 miss+ f ! camp+-gr\nd1 & n[ t ! la/ ( ! vet]ans 0 gone ,i felt v lonely4 ,dur+ ! :ole j\rney he _h nev] rea*$ a high] spot ?an t :]eon he di$2 on ! v saddle ( ! pass 8 bones w\ld be blea*$ by ! w9t] /orms & ! summ] sun4 ,! c>avan ?is ev5+ 0 empty & =lorn1 = ,i _h lo/ a tru/y fri5d4 ,n[ ,br[n ,puppy 0 my consol]1 = %e _h be5 ) me f ,sr9ag>1 & h] little :elp 0 ! y\nge/ & lea/ anxi\s memb] ( our /ruggl+ troop4 ,two mules _h cross$ ! pass b di$ 9 ! valley4 ,if ano!r su* pass lay 9 our way ! c>avan w\ld p]i%4 ,! loads 7 mu* too heavy = ! surviv+ animals4 ,a ?or\gh we$+-out 0 necess>y4 ,my ul/] & mo/ ( my ,european clo!s 7 burn$4 ,felt mats1 tools1 kit*5 ut5sils1 & sp>e %oes = ! horses 7 ?r[n away4 ,my small ,sw$i% bag 0 burn$1 & all ! m$ic9es except ! qu99e j> 7 sacrific$2 my ,european toilet necess>ies1 includ+ my razors1 w5t ! same way1 & only a piece ( soap 0 kept4 ,all ,european articles t 7 n absolutely indisp5sable 7 ca/ into ! fire4 ,i tore out ( ,frd+'s poems ! leaves ,i did n "k by he>t1 & left ! re/ at ! camp4 ,! rema9+ mat*es 7 di/ribut$ among ! m52 ,i kept myself tw5ty-f\r boxes1 :i* mu/ suffice until ! "t :5 we mu/ use only fl9t & /eel to pres]ve our incognito4 ,cold & sad ! night spread its w+s ov] ! sil5t valley :]e our lonely camp1 a picture ( desolation1 0 buri$ among black cliffs & :ite sn[drifts1 :ile ! />s came out above l lights burn+ r\nd a bi]4 ,:ile ! light5$ loads 7 be+ plac$ on ! animals ,i />t$ on foot foll[$ by two m54 ,"o ( !m1 ,kutus1 walk$ beside me1 & ,i /eadi$ myself by 8 %\ld] z we fl\nd]$ ?r\gh ! drifts4 ,! w9d blew furi\sly1 & ! sn[ danc$ 9 spirals & appe>$ z :ite cl\ds on all ! crags & ridges4 ,aft] a m>* ( ab\t #c miles we encamp$ :5 we came to grass4 ,sn[ _h to be melt$ 9 pots1 = ! animals _h be5 long )\t dr9k4 ,?is process did n take s long n[ t only elev5 animals 7 left4 ,) tott]+ /eps we cont9u$ to ! ea/-s\?-ea/ on ! #ag? & #ah?1 sometimes along valleys1 sometimes ov] op5 c\ntry1 & always ?r\gh deep tir+ sn[4 ,camp #ccc 7,illu/4 #cjg7 0 b>ely made ready :5 a t]rible /orm bur/ ov] u4 ,! sky _h be5 cle>1 & !n all ( a sudd5 ! pure blue col\r 0 wip$ out by orange cl\ds ( du/ :i* swept up f ! s\?-we/4 ,i 0 sitt+ 9 ! lee ( my t5t :5 9 an in/ant ! cont5ts ( ! brazi] 7 c>ri$ away4 ,a heap ( wild asses' dung :i* ! m5 _h collect$ also flew away1 & we saw ! small r\nd balls danc+ up ! slopes z ?\gh !y 7 rac+4 ,a h]d ( antelopes cant]$ pa/ our camp1 & _! smoo? coats %imm]$ l sat9 & velvet accord+ z ! hair 0 expos$ to ! w9d & ! light4 ,aga9 our e>s are fill$ ) ! d9 ( ! /orm4 ,i hurry inside1 & he> f "t to "t a %\t :5 "s "p ( ! m5's t5t ?reat5s to give way1 or ! s\nd ( iron aga9/ iron :5 ! t5t-pegs h to be driv5 9 aga91 or a s++ dy+-away s\nd :5 my t[el is seiz$ by ! bla/ & borne away t[>ds ! foot ( ! m\nta9s4 ,we might be on an uns\nd vessel ) ! sails flapp+ & beat+ 9 crack+ /rips1 & ! m\nta9 spurs1 :i* /ill peep obscurely f ! mi/1 might be dang]\s & ?reat5+ reefs1 aga9/ :i* we are to be da%$ 9 a mom5t4 ,gr& & maje/ic is su* a /orm :5 x sweeps ov] ! e>? 9 unbridl$ fury4 ,,*apt] ,,lxi ,,?irty ,,days ,,( ,,/orm ,on ,febru>y #ai we _h good c\ntry = travell+1 decl9+ g5tly to ! %ore ( ! ,lem*ung-tso1 :i* appe>$ 9 ! di/ance4 ,i travell$ mo/ly on foot1 z ,i c\ld easily d1 = ! /orm _h abat$1 b1 z usual1 we 7 *ill$ ?r\gh by ! w9d1 ?\gh ! temp]ature rose to #bh at "o o'clock4 ,at ! foot ( "s hills 9 ! s\? we p]ceiv$ numb]s ( black spots1 :i* we took = tame yaks4 ,!y soon resolv$ !mselves1 h[ev]1 into :ole troops ( antelopes1 :i* sp$ 9 light spr+s ov] ! pla9 nor?w>ds4 ,n[ 7 (t5 se5 signs ( ! summ] visits ( ! ,g]tse nomads4 ,we _h left ,deasy's & ,rawl+'s r\tes a c\ple ( days beh9d u1 & n[ f\nd ourselves on ! we/]n m>g9 ( "o ( ! l>ge/ blank spaces 9 ! map ( ,tibet4 ,aft] a grey horse _h p]i%$ 9 ! night we _h only t5 animals left1 or a f\r? ( ! orig9al c>avan4 ,!y 7 f$ 9 ! morn+ ) meal & sp5t tea-leaves 9 wat]1 :i* !y swall[$ ) avidity4 ,our /ore ( provisions w\ld la/ out b>ely a mon?4 ,we 7 #f or #g miles f ! %ore ( ! lake1 & on arriv+ !re we encamp$ close to a cave 9 :i* a mill/one & a c\ple ( yak hides _h be5 left 9 ! summ]4 ,along ! %ore ran a pa? worn by ! feet ( m54 ,we /ay$ "h a day & sort$ out ! baggage aga94 ,all sp>e in/rum5ts1 su* z !rmomet]s1 measur+ tape1 eye-glasses1 etc41 z well z "s ,european g>m5ts1 a c\ple ( caps1 b&ages1 portfolios1 7 sew$ up1 toge!r ) "s /ones1 9 a sack1 & sunk 9 a hole 9 ! ice1 :i* cov]$ ! lake to a dep? ( ne>ly #c feet4 ,n[ ,i _h only ?ree *anges ( "u-clo?+ left1 "o ( :i* might be sacrific$ at ! next sort+ out--we 7 l a balloon f :i* balla/ is ?r[n out to keep x 9 ! air till x has cross$ a sea & has firm gr\nd bel[ x4 ,9 ! ev5+ we he> a :ole or*e/ra ( ro>+ w9ds4 ,! air hurls itself d[n l cascades f ! m\nta9s on to ! camp1 & _c ru% fa/ en\gh ov] ! cle> ice ( ! lake1 :]e ! moon produces bright silv]y /reaks on ! surface1 :ile ! m\nta9s %[ a d>k outl9e to ! nor?4 ,graz+ & fuel are pl5tiful to-day1 & !re=e we are 9 high spirits4 ,! m5 s+1 sometimes s(tly l a sw++ lullaby or r\nd$ bill[s 9 a bay1 sometimes 9 ! wild & passionate /yle ( ,asiatics1 & dance ar\nd ! fire4 ,b :5 ! mo/ viol5t gu/s ru% d[n1 !y pause1 prep>$ to prev5t ! t5t f fall+ ov] ! fire4 ,!y seem to s+ responses to ! /orm1 & ,i am pleas$ ) ! p]=mance1 = x *ases away ?\ghts ( ! long h\rs ( solitude1 & calls =? pleasant dreams & hopes ( spr+1 w>m w9ds1 discov]ies & adv5tures 9 ,tibet4 ,i wond] daily h[ ?is j\rney w end1 b e day ,i am a /ep ne>] to ! answ]4 ,on ,febru>y #bb we left ! little fre%wat] lake on our left h&1 :ile ! ,lem*ung-tso prop] ext5d$ its p>tly froz5 surface to ! "r4 ,9 ! middle ! wat] 0 q op5 & ( a d>k-gre5 col\r1 & 0 la%$ into vap\r by ! /orm4 ,to ! ea/-s\?-ea/ ! c\ntry seem$ fav\rable--an op5 pla91 :]e no ob/acle came 9 our way4 ,9 front ( u 7 two graz+ animals--p]haps yaks or wild asses4 ,gulam1 :o w5t 9 front1 held up a field-glass & report$ t !y 7 horses4 ,s we 7 ne> nomads aga94 ,we se>*$ ab\t 9 e direction b c\ld p]ceive no t5t4 ,_h1 p]*ance1 ! horses /ray$ away8 ,h[ev]1 !y 7 n %y1 b became v sprightly :5 !y caught sight ( u1 gallop$ /raight to ! c>avan1 & greet$ e horse & mule individually4 ,aft] ?is civility !y foll[$ u all ! way1 pranc+ & neigh+4 ,!y 7 ?ree-ye>-old colts :i* _h nev] c>ri$ a saddle or a load--fat1 fre%1 & nimble-foot$1 v diff]5t f our la/ ?ree horses4 ,:5 we encamp$ !y w5t (f to ! s\? & 7 lo/ to sight4 ,! /orm increas$ 9 viol5ce1 & our la/ iron spade & a kettle 7 c>ri$ away by ! w9d1 b 7 aft]w>ds recov]$4 ,febru>y #bc4 ,! !rmomet] sank to -#ai4h4 ,our la/ t5 animals made a %ort day's m>* along ! same easy valley4 ,i c\ld p]ceive no trace ( ! ,sn[y ,range ( ,engli% maps 9 ! prolongation ( ?is valley4 ,we obs]v$ a c\ple ( t5ts 9 ! m\? ( a valley to ! nor?1 b we 7 n[ 9 no di/ress4 ,i liv$ exclusively on tea1 bread1 & jam1 ( :i* !re 7 /ill two pots left4 ,! /orm cont9u$ next day also4 ,we seldom cov]$ m ?an #f or #g miles4 ,9 ! pa/ mon? we _h travell$ #bbj miles1 #cj m ?an 9 ! previ\s mon?4 ,dur+ ! ev5+ & night ! sn[ pelt$ on to our t5ts4 ,i /ill _h my w>m com=table b$1 b at a p9* x w\ld also g piecemeal into ! fire4 ,ev]y?+ t 0 disc>d$ 0 burn$ or buri$1 le/1 if x 7 left1 x might ar\se suspicions4 ,= ano!r day's m>* we _h ! advantage ( ?is f9e longitud9al valley1 :i* imp]ceptibly rises to a flat ?re%old1 beyond :i* we pass$ a gold plac]4 ,! holes f :i* ! aurif]\s s& is extract$ are #c to #af feet 9 diamet]1 & little m ?an #c feet deep4 ,x is evid5t t "s ( !m h be5 dug out la/ summ]4 ,a little f>!r d[n gold _h be5 se>*$ = "s "t ago4 ,folds1 /one %elt]s = m>ksm51 & /one cairns 7 to be se5 9 sev]al places4 ,illu/ration3 #cac1 #cad1 #cae1 #caf1 #cag4 ,,panoramas ,,f ,,! ,,camps #cah1 #ccc1 #cce1 #cei1 #cfj2 ,,9 ,,! ,,la/ ,,two1 ,,%a-,,kang%am4 ,aft] ,wat]-col\r ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,/ill l[] d[n we came1 on ! foll[+ day1 to a ?ird plac]1 situat$ :]e ! valley contracts to a tr\gh4 ,"h l>ge %eepfolds & abundant tracks ( m5 7 f\nd4 ,! gold is wa%$ out on flat /ones 9 a flume #ajj y>ds long4 ,! valley aft]w>ds contracts to a bread? ( #e y>ds1 & ! bottom is mo/ly fill$ ) ice1 "h & !re =m+ l$ges4 ,^! _h to be levell$ ) axes & /rewn ) s&1 & ea* animal 0 l$ & held up by m54 ,we c\ld n af=d to let any "o ( !m break 8 leg & be lo/ to u4 ,!n ! ice came to an end1 ! valley op5$ out1 & we pit*$ our t5ts 9 an ext5sive flat4 ,t[>ds ! ea/ ! l& 0 all fav\rable1 & no ,sn[y ,range /ood 9 our way4 ,we c\ld see #be miles ahead4 ,tubges %ot five h>es & we _h a fea/ t ev5+4 ,a pack ( wolves h[l$ r\nd ! camp at night4 ,febru>y #bg4 ,a ?\s& wild asses 7 se5 on ! pla9 :i* slop$ d[n g5tly to ! ea/-s\?-ea/4 ,!y =m$ d>k l9es1 sometimes l>ge1 sometimes small1 sometimes spots l a ros>y4 ,"s h]ds gallop$ (f to a po9t ab\t two hundr$ y>ds 9 front ( ! c>avan1 :]e !y /ood & gaz$ & !n disp]s$1 spr++ away 9 graceful movem5ts4 ,p]haps !y 7 "h = a great spr+ congress1 to decide que/ions relat+ to _! t]ritory & pa/ures4 ,x is c]ta9 t1 l ! nomads1 !y migrate at fix$ seasons1 = !y also are dep5d5t on ! occurr5ce ( grass & its v>y+ abundance at diff]5t heights & diff]5t times ( ! ye>4 ,f>!r d[n ! pla91 beyond a small cliff1 7 five h]ds ( kiangs1 ! ne>e/ ( :i* numb]$ #acc head4 ,!y came gallop+ almo/ up to u4 ,lobsang ran t[>ds !m4 ,!n !y set (f 9 wild flight "o aft] ano!r1 _! ho(s ?und]+ ov] ! gr\nd1 made a wide curve beh9d u1 & vani%$ 9 a d5se cl\d ( du/1 ! h>d beat ( _! ho(s be+ /ill audible4 ,a /rong puff ( w9d disp]s$ ! cl\d1 & !y came into sight aga92 !y /ood quak+ ) fe>1 & look$ at u1 prick$ up _! e>s1 dilat$ _! no/rils1 & sniff$ ! w9d4 ,to ! s\? ( our r\te we p]ceiv$ two t5ts among small scatt]$ heights4 ,abdul ,k]im & two m5 w5t (f to !m :ile we pit*$ camp #cda4 ,on _! return !y report$ t ! t5ts 7 ! prop]ty ( a c]ta9 ,ts]+ ,ngorpel f ,g]tse1 :o _h come hi!r ) 8 family = two mon?s & 0 go+ back 9 a mon?4 ,!y 7 poor p1 & own$ only #gj %eep & goats1 #f yaks1 & #a dog4 ,! neighb\rhood ( camp #cda ! man call$ ,s5es-yung-r+mo1 & he said t if we m>*$ s\?-ea/w>ds we %\ld almo/ daily meet ) nomads f ,g]tse & ,s5kor1 di/ricts 9 ! s\? :i* ,i _h pass$ ?r\gh 9 #aija4 ,!y 7 afraid ( our m5 & w\ld n let !m ent] ! t5ts4 ,two f9e %eep & a lump ( butt] 7 b\ght1 & rescu$ u f />vation = a "t4 ,! h>e meat 0 disc>d$ & giv5 to ! dogs4 ,we made ! two %eep c>ry !mselves our newly-acquir$ /ore ( meat to camp #cdb2 we _h no room = extra loads4 ,we m\nt$ sl[ly to a flat pass4 ,?ree t5ts /ood 9 a side valley & "s m5 came out to look at u1 b we pass$ on )\t ex*ang+ que/ions & answ]s4 ,on ,febru>y #bi ! w9d rag$ furi\sly all day long4 ,cl\ds swept ceaselessly ov] ! c\ntry1 & at "o o'clock ! temp]ature 0 #bb4a1 q l[ en\gh to *ill a rid] d[n to ! bones & m>r[4 ,9 front ( u lay a l>ge flat holl[1 9 ! mid/ ( :i* two small lakes %one :ite ) ice4 ,we sl[ly approa*$ ! i/hmus betwe5 !m4 ,a h]d ( antelopes took to flight & ne>ly fell ov] a lonely wild ass1 :i* look$ at !m uneasily1 b at ! la/ mom5t !y turn$ (f 9 ano!r direction z ?\gh !y 7 afraid ( him4 ,on ! left1 9 a deep tr\gh runn+ t[>ds ! lake1 a flock ( %eep 0 driv5 along by two %eph]ds4 ,wait "o mom5t4 ,h& me ! turban4 ,gulam w\nd x r\nd my head1 & !n ,i w5t on foot l ! re/4 ,along ! %ore a "y man 0 driv+ six yaks4 ,abdul ,k]im & ,gulam w5t up to him :ile we set up ! t5ts on ! %ore 7#ae1bjj feet74 ,aft] a :ile !y return$ ) ! yak-driv]1 a boy ( f\rte5 9 a l>ge :ite sk9 hood4 ,he 0 t]ribly fright5$1 & c\ld ) difficulty be p]suad$ to come to our t5ts2 our int5tion 0 t he %\ld guide two ( our m5 to 8 dwell+4 ,he call$ ! lake ,lumbur-r+mo4 ,z my disguise 0 n[ complete1 ,i w5t to look at ! boy1 :o did n seem at all suspici\s4 ,lobsang & ,tubges foll[$ ! boy to 8 t5t1 & aft] a long "t return$ ) unwelcome news4 ,two ,tibetans _h ru%$ out ( ! t5t1 /opp$ !m1 & ask$ r\ghly :at !y want$4 ,!y repli$ v quietly t !y wi%$ to buy food2 b !re 0 no?+ ( ! k9d = sale4 ,b :o are y8 an eld]ly man ask$4 ,we are ,ladakis 9 ! s]vice ( a m]*ant1 & we are on ! way to ,saka-dzong1 !y answ]$4 ,no1 ! ,tibetan exclaim$2 y lie4 ,no m]*ant travels ?is way1 lea/ ( all 9 w9t]2 !re is no trade 9 ,*ang-tang4 ,we are n trad+1 ,lobsang repli$2 we are commission$ to inquire h[ mu* %eep's wool c be b\ght up next summ]4 ,%eep's wool--9 un9habit$ di/ricts6 ,no2 y are s]vants ( a ,european1 :o keeps himself out ( sight 9 "o ( y\r t5ts4 ,out ) ! tru?1 or x w be bad = y4 ,ask ! boy "h1 return$ ,lobsang 9 8 mo/ innoc5t tone1 if he saw any ,european 9 our t5t4 ,we abhor ,europeans z he>tily z y4 ,if y d\bt u1 y c come to our t5ts & see = y\rself4 ,no1 ?ank y2 we w n come to y\r t5t1 ! old man answ]$1 & disappe>$ ) 8 p beh9d ! black hang+s4 ,lobsang 0 v s]i\s :5 he came back1 & propos$ t1 if we _h n already come to a /&/ill1 we %\ld 9 future set up our camp z f> z possible f ! nomads4 ,i 0 al>m$1 & ,i _h a feel+ t we %\ld n advance mu* f>!r into ! =bidd5 l&4 ,x 0 also disappo9t+ to be s op5ly suspect$ to be a ,european4 ,n[ good advice 0 preci\s1 = evid5tly ! nomads w\ld betray u to ! ne>e/ au?orities4 ,at ! ev5+'s lesson 9 ,tibetan1 :i* occupi$ "s h\rs1 ,i discuss$ ! situation ) ,lobsang & ,kutus4 ,x 0 resolv$ t ,abdul ,k]im %\ld g e>ly 9 ! morn+ to ! t5t1 & if ! nomads 7 /ill ho/ile we w\ld try to l5g!n our day's m>* s z to get out ( ! way ( a probable summons to /op4 ,?is "t ,lobsang met ) a bett] reception1 z he c\ld pres5t our *ief & lead]1 :om ! nomads correctly address$ z bombo4 ,! old man introduc$ himself "u ! "n ( ,sogb>ong ,ts]+ ,tundup--,sogb>ong is 8 home 9 ! we/1 & ?is "n is plac$ be=e 8 own mu* z ,&]s ,p]sson i ,/or-grd54 ,! old man invit$ 8 gue/s into 8 t5t1 took a c\ple ( %eep's trott]s1 cut !m 9 pieces ) an axe1 ?rew !m into ! caldron1 & (f]$ "s bro? to ,abdul ,k]im1 say+ x 0 ! only tea he _h4 ,9 ! t5t 7 five antelopes cut up1 a gun1 a knife1 & o!r articles4 ,! old man did n ?is "t express any suspicions ( u1 b relat$ t a ,european ) a l>ge c>avan _h cross$ ! c\ntry to ! ea/ m ?an a ye> ago4 ,he did n suspect1 ( c\rse1 t t same ,european 0 hid+ 9 "o ( our t5ts4 ,:5 ! mess5g]s came back !y _h a f9e fat %eep & a c ( milk ) !m4 ,?is day1 ,m>* #a1 ! w9d 0 s /rong t x 0 impossible to travel4 ,my t5t fell ov] & 0 held fa/ by ! load ( s& & /ones on its folds4 ,n a trace ( ! surr\nd+s 0 visible1 & ,i %\ld h obta9$ no notion ( c\ntry on ! r\te4 ,at two o'clock ,ts]+ ,tundup & ano!r ,tibetan came to return ! visit4 ,!y em]g$ f ! mi/ only :5 !y 7 close at h&1 & a c\ple ( m5 ha/5$ to protect !m f ! dogs4 ,! visit 0 a complete surprise1 b !re 0 no?+ :i* c\ld excite ! lea/ suspicion4 ,my ?+s 7 cramm$ into a sack1 & ,i 0 disguis$ z usual2 inde$1 ,i _h n[ no o!r clo?+ to put on4 ,ev5 if !y _h come & look$ into my t5t !re w\ld h be5 no dang]4 ,our gue/s _h capaci\s %eepsk9 coats drawn up above ! belt s z to =m ! usual protrud+ bag :]e a l>ge "p ( _! prop]ty is /or$4 ,!y wore hoods ( %eepsk9 & look$ l ,samoy$s or ,*uk*is4 ,!y /ood a :ile & *att$ ) our m5 9 ! w9d1 b ,i did n he> a ^w1 ?\gh !y 7 /&+ only #c y>ds f ! loophole 9 my t5t ?r\gh :i* ,i 0 wat*+ !m4 ,aft] "s hesitation1 !y w5t into ,abdul ,k]im's t5t1 & !n ! yak "q 0 discuss$4 ,!y _h only six yaks1 :i* !y requir$ = _! own j\rneys2 b if we w\ld buy %eep1 !y w\ld let u h z _m z twelve1 & ea* %eep c\ld easily c>ry a fif? "p ( a mule's load4 ,! (f] 0 accept$ ) pleasure1 & ! price 0 fix$ at #ch rupees4 ,!n !y w5t (f ?r\gh ! /orm & ,i felt safe aga94 ,! pur*ase 0 conclud$ on ,m>* #b1 & ! twelve %eep /ood ) _! heads toge!r 9 ! %elt] ( ! m5's t5t4 ,to />t on our travels 0 impossible1 = we c\ld n h kept our legs 9 su* a /orm4 ,we !re=e rema9$ "h ano!r day1 & ! m5 _h full occupation 9 sew+ sacks = ! %eep1 arrang+ & weigh+ ! loads4 ,i 0 worse (f1 = ,i _h no?+ to d & no?+ to read1 b ,i sat & wrote ,tibetan notes & ent]$ new words 9 my lexicon4 ,!n ,i he>d a ha/y /ep com+ t[>ds my t5t2 x 0 ,kun*uk br++ fire4 ,a ru/le1 an oa?1 all ! cont5ts are swept out ( ! %ovel1 & ! man has to crawl back to ! camp-fire = m emb]s4 ,s ! day passes & ! /orm ro>s1 & e "o is we>y & li/less4 ,dur+ ^! /ormy days our animals lay = ! mo/ "p quietly 9 a holl[ :]e !y 7 %elt]$ f ! w9d4 ,! /orm kept !m f graz+1 & !y 7 mu* enfeebl$ by fa/+4 ,a :ite mule1 !re=e1 rema9$ beh9d at ,lumbur-r+mo-tso :5 we mov$ (f s\?-ea/w>ds on ,m>* #c ) #c horses1 #f mules1 & #ab %eep1 delight$ t we _h pass$ ?is critical po9t ) a :ole sk94 ,fre%wat] spr+s =m$ a numb] ( picturesque ice volcanoes on ! %ore ( ! small lake4 ,be=e we encamp$ beh9d a project+ cliff1 we met ?ree l>ge flocks ( %eep ) _! %eph]ds4 ,on su* occasions ,i always w5t on foot4 ,! new %eep all c>ri$ burd5s1 & gave invaluable help to our tir$ animals4 ,!y 7 ti$ up e night betwe5 ! t5ts t !y might be safe f wolves1 & ! yell[ dog f ,g>tok prov$ an excell5t gu>d4 ,!y bleat$ pite\sly ! fir/ ev5+1 probably di/ress$ at leav+ _! native c\ntry4 ,i 0 sorry = !m1 = !y _h be5 treat$ z cruelly z ,uncle ,tom1 b 9 "t !y became q accu/om$ to _! new way ( life4 ,viol5t /orms prevail$ all day & all ! foll[+ day1 on :i* we pass$ two black t5ts4 ,at e camp we _h to take ! greate/ c>e t no pieces ( pap]1 mat*-boxes1 c&le ends1 or cig>ette /umps 7 left ly+ ab\t1 = we might be sure t ! ,tibetans dwell+ ne> w\ld come & se>* ab\t aft] we _h left ! spot4 ,our r\te took u ov] a l[ pass 7#af1jcj feet74 ,! rocks compris$ wea!r$ s*i/s1 qu>tzite1 & granite--! la/ only 9 deta*$ blocks4 ,on ! o!r side we foll[$ a deeply excavat$ valley op5+ out on to a pla91 & we 7 j sett+ up our t5t by a project+ rock :5 two l>ge black dogs came runn+ t[>ds u b>k+4 ,nomads1 !re=e1 7 encamp+ 9 ! neighb\rhood1 & we mu/ be on our gu>d4 ,abdul ,k]im1 :o always %[$ himself prud5t & tactful 9 delicate negotiations1 w5t (f to a t5t :i* /ood on ! o!r side ( ! rock & 0 inhabit$ by f\r ,s5kor nomads :o own$ #djj %eep4 ,! *ief ( !m 0 nam$ ,%goge1 & sold u ?ree %eep at #c rupees a head1 "s butt] & milk4 ,he said t ! c\ntry "h1 ar\nd camp #cde1 0 call$ ,pankur1 & t we 7 ?ree days' j\rney f ! encampm5t ( ! ,g]tse ,pun1 or ! *ief ( ,g]tse4 ,) him1 h[ev]1 we _h no?+ to d4 ,x 0 to our int]e/ to avoid z mu* z possible (ficials ( all k9ds1 n to approa* ,g]tse or ,s5kor 9 ! we/ too closely1 & n too ne> my r\te ( #aijf to ! ea/4 ,we mu/ /e] our way ?r\gh _m pitfalls4 ,j 9 ?is di/rict we cross$ ! m]idian ( #hd ,e41 & my plan 0 to travel due s\? f ! ,tong-tso "r across ! l>ge blank space4 ,! cont9ual /orms :i* _h done u s mu* h>m1 7 s f> advantage\s to u t !y enabl$ u to cross ! great wa/es )\t be+ mu* notic$4 ,?is day all 0 hazy f ! du/1 & our neighb\rs' %eep1 :i* pass$ my t5t 9 long columns ) %eph]ds & dogs1 made a v curi\s spectacle 9 ! d5se mi/4 ,m>* #e4 ,abdul ,k]im obta9$ two m %eep1 & n[ we _h sev5te5 to help ! mules & horses4 ,our int5tion 0 to increase our %eep c>avan by degrees1 & make ourselves indep5d5t ( ! o!r animals4 ,we mu/ also h a sp>e horse = ,abdul ,k]im1 = he 0 our ma/]1 & x 0 incongru\s t he %\ld g on foot :ile ,i1 a simple c>avan man1 rode4 ,?is day we _h ! /orm at our back1 & we travell$ #h miles ov] ! same ev51 excell5t gr\nd :i* _h made progress easi] s9ce we left ,lem*ung-tso4 ,we encamp$ at a %eepfold & enjoy$ ! feel+ t !re 7 no neighb\rs to spy on u4 ,a %eep 0 slaught]$2 only ! wor/ 7 sacrific$ = food1 & 7 to be replac$ by new ones :5 an opportunity pres5t$ itself4 ,,*apt] ,,lxii ,,adv5tures ,,( ,,ourselves ,,& ,,puppy ,,9 ,,nagrong ,on ,m>* #f we made ano!r hop t[>ds our de/9ation4 ,x is difficult to travel ov] ! high plateaus ( ,tibet 9 w9t]1 & we c\ld n m>* m ?an f\r h\rs a day4 ,! morn+ 0 cle>1 b we _h n gone f> beyond a small lake1 ) its mantle ( ice cov]$ ) drifts& & du/1 be=e ! /orm increas$ 9 viol5ce & made me reel 9 ! saddle4 ,! cl\ds ( du/ became ?ick]1 ! s&sp\ts 7 d>k r$di%-br[n at ! base1 & ! gu/s tore up furr[s 9 ! gr\nd l pl\gh%>es1 :ile frequ5tly spiral =ms 7 se5 :i* c\ld only be produc$ by cyclonic :irlw9ds4 ,on ! left h& %imm]$ a lake1 its surface p>tly :ite ) gypsum & salt1 p>tly /reak$ br[n ) drifts&1 & ) op5 wat] only 9 two places2 x 0 ! gho/ ( a lake :i* 0 doom$ to disappe>4 ,two built-up fireplaces s]v$ u capitally = a camp+-gr\nd on ! %ore :]e ! graz+ 0 good4 ,on ! ea/]n side ( ! lake 0 a brick-r$ ridge ( m$ium height1 :i* ,i wi%$ to pa9t 9 ord] to record ! effective tones 9 ! du/ mi/4 ,i wait$ = ! o!rs ) ,kutus & ,gulam1 & we _h sc>cely induc$ a fire to burn be=e ! /orm rose at noon to a hurricane4 ,n[ ev]y?+ vani%$--lake1 ridge1 all except ! ne>e/ tufts ( grass4 ,! fire 0 f5c$ 9 ) /ones & clods le/ x %\ld be bl[n away1 s& & m9ute pebbles beat aga9/ my dry sk9 coat1 & ,i _h to cov] all my face1 = ! sk9 sm>t$ z ?\gh la%$ by :ip-cord1 if x 7 expos$ = a second to ! w9d4 ,=tunately ! o!rs made _! way to u4 ,e man _h to l5d a h& to raise my t5t4 ,at l5g? ,gulam came crawl+ backw>ds & yell$ into my e> t ! t5t 0 ready4 ,) /raddl+ legs & all my muscles on ! /ret* ,i f\ght my way to x1 & 0 glad to cat* hold ( a t5t rope be=e ,i 0 bl[n d[n4 ,at la/ ,i 0 "u cov] & c\ld recov] my brea?4 ,! t5t clo? 0 puff$ out l a balloon1 & ?reat5$ e mom5t to bur/ ) a report4 ,! s& & rubbi% beat ^u x1 produc+ a deaf5+ noise4 ,x 0 z d>k z at twilight1 & ! w9d ro>$ & :9$ ?r\gh ! grass4 ,! m5 tri$ to set up _! own t5t1 b :5 ! w9d _h ov]turn$ x twice !y let x lie1 weight+ x ) ! baggage t x might n fly away4 ,five ,ladakis lay 9 ! lee ( my t5t roll$ up l h$gehogs1 & ,i let !m come 91 :]e !y sat sil5t & motionless = a c\ple ( h\rs4 ,! o!rs _h crept "u ! ru9s ( _! un=tunate t5t4 ,puppy & ,little ,puppy lay 9 a corn] & kept ea* o!r w>m4 ,h[ev]1 ! temp]ature 0 #ce4h1 & we _h n _h su* w>m? = ?ree mon?s4 ,a long & dismal ev5+6 ,x 0 ) difficulty ,i got a piece ( bread1 a cup ( tea1 & a piece ( dri$ meat4 ,we 7 deaf & dizzy :5 at l5g? we s\ght repose "u our rugs1 :ile ! /orm cont9u$ to rage outside4 ,i awoke to he> ! same old music1 & to g out to my horse 0 l plung+ into icy-cold wat]4 ,nei!r ! sky nor ! horizon 0 visible1 & ! m\nta9s 7 dim %ad[s4 ,) ,kutus & ,gulam ,i l$ ! way1 foll[+ a pa? trodd5 by m54 ,d>k1 *ill1 & doleful 0 ! l& ( et]nal twilight1 fro/1 & ! wick$ demons ( ! air4 ,aft] a m>* ( #h miles we halt$ at ! edge ( a belt ( ice1 a froz5 /ream 9 sev]al bran*es1 :i* ran to ! s\?-we/4 ,! gale flew ov] ! cle> %eet ( ice1 & ! r$ du/ 0 swept ov] x l flames4 ,) ! assi/ance ( ,kutus ,i slid ov] to ! o!r side1 & 9 ! %elt] ( ! op5+ ( a small valley we made ! usual fire4 ,! c>avan came to ! edge ( ! ice4 ,x 0 impossible to s& a pa?1 = ! gra9s w\ld h be5 swept away4 ,! animals 7 l$ across s+ly1 ea* help$ ov] by sev]al m54 ,= all t a mule fell & gave a fe>ful wr5* to "o ( its h9d legs1 & ) great difficulty x 0 help$ up to ! camp4 ,all ( u _h grey di/ort$ faces1 our eyes ran1 full ( s& & du/4 ,my lips bl$ & my tee? 7 black4 ,m>* is ! wor/ mon?1 b we _h nev] exp]i5c$ su* bad wea!r be=e4 ,:at is ! use ( look+ =w>d to spr+ :5 ! days are d>k] z "t goes on8 ,! injur$ mule _h evid5tly dislocat$ its leg4 ,x 0 ?r[n d[n & a rope 0 fa/5$ r\nd its ho( & ! end 0 pull$ by ! m54 ,:5 x 0 at full /ret* ,lobsang hit ! rope h>d ) a t5t-pole 9 ord] to set ! dislocat$ jo9t 9 place aga91 b ,i c\ld n p]ceive t ! op]ation _h any effect4 ,no2 ! mule 0 lo/ to u j :5 we c\ld ill af=d to lose "o ( our be/ animals4 ,& x 0 lo/ inde$1 = on ! morn+ ( ,m>* #h x c\ld n take a /ep4 ,x 0 sad to pass ! dea? s5t5ce1 & a pitiful sight :5 ! fre% w>m blood spurt$ out 9 p[]ful jets & moi/5$ ! b>r5 soil4 ,x lay quiet & pati5tly1 & aft] a few convulsions expir$1 & 0 left 9 solitude :5 we mov$ on ov] ! dre>y wa/e4 ,b be=e />t+ ,i _h asc5d$ a hill & look$ ar\nd4 ,:i* 0 m exp$i5t--to travel nor?-ea/ or s\?-we/8 ,bo? directions lay out ( our c\rse4 ,i decid$ = ! s\?-we/1 & ha/5$ d[n to my t5t1 :]e ,gulam s]v$ up breakfa/4 ,br[n ,puppy & ,little ,puppy gave me _! company to get _! %>e4 ,little ,puppy _h gr[n s mu* t he c\ld d :at he lik$ ) 8 "m4 ,:5 ,i gave h] a piece ( meat ! "y "o flew ^u h] & took x away4 ,i _h to hold ,little ,puppy t 8 "m might eat 9 peace4 ,:5 we set out1 ,puppy & ! yell[ dog rema9$ beh9d ) ! slaught]$ mule1 f9d+ a conv5i5t po9t ( dep>ture 9 an op5 w\nd 9 ! s(t muscles ( ! neck4 ,!re !y /ood gorg+ :5 we />t$ along ! ice-belt ( ! /ream t[>ds ! s\?-we/4 ,) my usual foll[]s ,i rode 9 advance4 ,! suffocat+1 bl9d+1 deaf5+ /orm 0 "r 9 our faces4 ,gulam walk$ 9 front1 /opp$1 look$ ?r\gh ! field-glass1 & gave me ! sign to dism\nt4 ,! /ream swept r\nd ! foot ( a cliff 9 front ( u4 ,:at is x8 ,i ask$ ,gulam :5 we came up to him4 ,a l>ge /one h\se ) a wall & a c\ple ( small] huts4 ,!y are n visible at ?is mom5t because ( ! mi/1 b !y lie close to ! foot ( ! m\nta94 ,yes2 n[ !y c be se54 ,x is /range t no dogs ru% at u4 ,:at is to be done8 ,%all we turn back8 ,surely a *iefta9 lives "h1 & he w come & se>* u d[n to ! sk94 ,no2 x is too late1 = we mu/ h be5 se5 already4 ,h[ ,i regrett$ t we _h n travell$ to ! nor?-ea/6 ,b we mu/ put on a good face 9 our unlucky situation4 ,we pass$ ! village at a di/ance ( #ajj y>ds1 & halt$ 9 ! %elt] ( ! d>k porphyry crag cr[n$ by two *hort5s & a mani4 ,at lea/ x 0 pleasant to get %elt] = a mom5t4 ,x 0 l tak+ refuge 9 a gateway :5 x p\rs4 ,all ar\nd 0 dead & dre>y2 no "o 0 se52 only a c\ple ( jackdaws croak$1 & a h>e sp$ out ( its =m s ne> u t we c\ld h caught x ) ! h& if we _h be5 al]t4 ,kutus & ,gulam w5t out to ga!r fuel4 ,i se>*$ ! suspici\s neighb\rhood ) ! field-glass1 :]e trea*]y seem$ to lurk beh9d e projection4 ,x cle>$ a little t[>ds ! s\?-ea/1 en\gh = me to detect a black t5t ( unusual size ab\t #bjj y>ds (f4 ,f\r /r+s ) pray]-/ream]s 7 /ret*$ out f a high pole4 ,i _h be5 9 hopes t we %\ld get pa/ ! fir/ dwell+s1 z no dogs _h %[n !mselves1 b ,i _h nev] he>d ( an un9habit$ t5t4 ,& ! outw>d appe>ance ( ?is t5t indicat$ ! pres5ce ( an important *ief4 ,?anks to ! mi/1 we _h /umbl$ "r on to 8 camp1 & he w\ld n be caught napp+ by poor /roll+ ,ladakis4 ,gulam _h be5 to ! l>ge h\se1 ! y>d door ( :i* /ood op51 & _h f\nd 9 a %$ a l>ge quantity ( fuel ( a k9d ( %rub ! ,tibetans call ombo4 ,s we wait$ & wait$1 expect+ to see ! c>avan em]ge f ! mi/1 b :5 no?+ 0 he>d ( x ,kutus w5t out to se>*4 ,x _h w&]$ q out ( its c\rse1 & _h made a long circuit r\nd ! h\se & t5t1 = ! lead]s 7 conv9c$ t ,i wi%$ to slip by unnotic$4 ,a horse _h fall51 & n[ we _h only two left1 & #e mules out ( #dj animals4 ,! ?ree t5ts 7 set up 9 a l9e close toge!r1 & ,abdul ,k]im w5t ) ,kun*uk to ! l>ge t5t4 ,we saw ?r\gh ! mi/ t a man came out to meet !m1 & t all ?ree w5t into ! t5t1 & !n we wait$ ) our he>ts 9 our m\?s4 ,! m5 return$ at dusk ) good news4 ,! t5t 0 inhabit$ by a lonely old ,am*i-lama1 i4e4 a monk-doctor1 :o at ! same "t look$ aft] ! s\ls ( ! ,nagrong nomads1 det]m9$ f a/rological books ! lucky & unlucky days = baptisms & o!r affairs1 & assi/$ p ) ! same rem$ies :5 !y 7 sick1 di$1 & f9ally 7 buri$4 ,he 0 f ,s]a 9 ,lhasa1 & _h liv$ ?ree ye>s 9 ,nagrong4 ,! t5t 0 a movable temple1 furni%$ inside ) alt>s1 burn+ butt] lamps1 & votive b[ls1 :]e ! h]mit p]=m$ s]vice--we he>d him beat+ a temple drum at midnight4 ,x belong$1 z well z ! l>ge h\se1 to ! ,g]tse ,pun ,bombo1 or ! *ief ( ! ,g]tse di/rict1 :o a few days be=e _h gone (f a day's j\rney to ! ea/1 ) 8 flocks1 *ildr51 & all1 b 0 soon expect$ back 9 consequ5ce ( a dispute betwe5 two ( 8 subjects4 ,p]haps1 aft] all1 x 0 well we travell$ s\?-we/ in/ead ( nor?-ea/1 = we might h fall5 into ! jaws ( ! ,g]tse ,pun himself4 ,?is pot5tate comes to ,nagrong 9 late summ] & takes up 8 abode 9 ! /one h\se1 :ile a hundr$ nomad t5ts are set up ar\nd & a fair is held4 ,! old lama _h no s]vants1 b e ?ird day a man came to br+ him wood4 ,he mu/ f9d x dull 9 ! long w9t] ev5+s1 :5 he he>s ! /orm ro>+ outside1 & sil5ce reigns )9 ar\nd ! gods :o answ] 8 pray]s & ! rolls ( 8 drum ) a smile ( reconciliation4 ,b probably he is a philosoph] & has no fe> ( ! dang]s ( ! night4 ,9 8 t5t lay sev]al sacks full ( tsamba1 b>ley1 rice1 & butt]1 b he _h no au?ority to sell any?+ )\t ! p]mission ( ! ,g]tse ,pun4 ,in/ead1 he po9t$ out :]e ! t5t ( ! ,pun's bro!r-9-law /ood1 :]e all k9ds ( prime goods c\ld be b\ght4 ,we !re=e decid$ to rema9 :]e we 7 ov] ,m>* #i1 & ,abdul ,k]im ) ?ree att5dants s\ght out ! bro!r-9-law1 met ) a fri5dly reception1 & b\ght five %eep & two goats1 besides two %eep-loads ( rice & z mu* b>ley1 & also a bag ( tobacco1 :i* ! m5 _h long want$4 ,all day long ,i 0 a prison] 9 my t5t2 my p]iod ( fre$om 0 ov]4 ,& :5 ! ev5+ came & envelop$ ! dre>y ,nagrong valley 9 its %ad[s1 ,i c\ld ?9k ( no?+ else b my old tru/y comrade1 ! olde/ ( all t _h be5 ) me 9 ,tibet1 ,br[n ,puppy4 ,9 ! company ( ! yell[ dog %e _h rema9$ 9 ! morn+ ) ! mule :i* _h dislocat$ its leg1 & ,i _h se5 no?+ ( h] s9ce4 ,we _h hop$1 h[ev]1 t %e w\ld f9d u aga91 z %e _h s (t5 done be=e1 b n[ we 7 conv9c$ t %e _h lo/ our trail1 &1 desp]ate & crazy ) anxiety1 0 seek+ = u ov] hill & dale1 only to w&] f>!r & f>!r f ! "r direction4 ,x 0 useless to s5d m5 aft] h]1 & x 0 n advisable to divide our small p>ty at su* a critical "t4 ,! dogs _h rema9$ a long "t te>+ at ! mule's neck1 & :5 at la/ !y 7 satiat$ !y _h />t$ to foll[ u & _h lo/ our track 9 ! t]rible w9d & s& cl\ds4 ,if !y once cross$ ov] ice !y w\ld nev] f9d our track aga94 ,n[ ?\ghts ( my old t5t companion worri$ me m ?an any?+ else4 ,only t v morn+ %e _h la9 on h] felt rug 9 ! usual corn]1 & we _h breakfa/$ toge!r4 ,:]e 0 %e8 :at 0 %e do+ at ?is mom5t8 ,day & night %e w\ld run b>k+ & :9+ ov] desolate ,*ang-tang ) h] nose to ! gr\nd1 se>*+ = our track till h] paws 7 torn & pa9ful4 ,:at w\ld %e d :5 night came d[n ) its dreadful d>kness & its pr[l+ wolves8 ,7 ! dogs keep+ toge!r1 or 7 !y seek+ u along diff]5t pa?s1 hav+ lo/ ea* o!r8 ,w\ld ,puppy "s "t f9d a home ) fri5dly nomads & lead a com=table life aga91 or w\ld %e come to want & be ti$ outside a poor t5t1 &1 p9+ 9 hopeless sorr[1 rememb] h] pa/ life1 :i*1 f :5 %e lapp$ milk 9 my room at ,sr9ag>1 _h be5 sp5t 9 my c>avan8 ,i 0 nev] to receive an answ] to ^! que/ions1 = ! p>ts %e & ! yell[ dog play$ 9 our romance 7 end$4 ,= ! future h] life w\ld %ape itself diff]5tly1 b ,i 0 nev] to ga9 any k ( ! rema9+ *apt]s ( h] exi/5ce4 ,i lay awake at night ?9k+ ( h] mis=tune1 & look$ e morn+ to see if p]*ance %e _h come back 9 ! night & 0 ly+ 9 h] usual corn]1 & ,i fanci$ ,i he>d h] trott+ outside my t5t 9 ! dusk1 or ?\ght ,i c\ld di/+ui% ! pr(ile ( a lonely half-/>v$ dog on a m\nd or crag ) its nose up & h[l+ at ! /orm4 ,= "s "t ,i suff]$ f a delusion1 imag9+ t a %ade1 ! re/less s\l1 ! invisible gho/ ( a dog foll[$ me :]ev] ,i w5t4 ,i felt ! pres5ce ( an invisible dog :i* foll[$ me into my t5t1 & among ! ,tibetans1 & always :9$ & plead$ = help1 & ,i 0 worri$ t ,i c\ld give no help or consolation to my lo/1 w&]+ fri5d4 ,b soon we _h o!r ?+s to ?9k (1 o!r dogs became my fri5ds1 & we 7 daily entangl$ 9 a ske9 ( tr\bles :i* mu/ lead to a crisis1 & ! c>es ( ! pa/ pal$ be=e ! gravity ( ! mom5t4 ,illu/ration3 #cah4 ,,! ,,au?or ,,z ,a ,,%eph]d4 ,m>* #aj4 ,su* a day z ?is is int]e/+ to look back on1 b x 0 h>d & cruel z long z x la/$4 ,be=e six o'clock ,i 0 awak5$ ) ! disquiet+ in=mation t two ,tibetans 7 approa*+ our t5ts4 ,i made ha/e to dress myself & pa9t my face & h&s black ) a ?9 coat+4 ,mean:ile ! /rang]s arriv$ & 7 invit$ into ,abdul ,k]im's t5t1 :]e ,i he>d !m talk+ pleasantly ab\t %eep & money--s !y 7 n spies2 our "t _h n yet come4 ,"o ( ! gue/s 0 ! bro!r-9-law1 ! o!r a neighb\r ( 81 :o1 :5 he he>d :at a good price we paid = %eep1 said he 0 ready to sell u f\r he _h br\ght ) him1 z well z a lively goat4 ,abdul ,k]im _h receiv$ a g5]al ord] to buy all ! %eep he c\ld procure1 s he took !m4 ,! goat 01 z has be5 said1 a lively bea/1 & he ran (f at once & c\ld n be caught aga94 ,! two ,tibetans w5t (f to ! lama's t5t to dr9k tea1 b ! critical "t 0 n yet ov]1 = probably !y w\ld return to see u />t4 ,!re=e1 :ile ! t5ts 7 /ill /&+1 ,i set out ) ,tubges1 ,little ,kun*uk1 & ,snor+ ,kun*uk1 z we call$ ,sonam ,kun*uk on acc\nt ( 8 t]rible timb]-saw+ prop5sities1 :5 !y drove our ?irty-"o %eep d[n ! valley4 ,z we w5t (f ! ,tibetans came out & wat*$ u1 b did n suspect any?+ wrong4 ,to escape detection ,i _h hurri$ly turn$ to %eep-driv+ 7,illu/4 #cah71 b ,i soon f\nd t ,i _h no natural aptitude = ?is occupation1 s invigorat+1 b s try+ to ! pati5ce4 ,i fanci$ ,i imitat$ my ,ladakis z closely z possible1 :i/l$ & %\t$ 9 ! same way1 & ?rew out my arms :5 a %eep left ! cr[d1 b ! animals %[$ me n ! lea/ ob$i5ce1 b w5t :]e !y lik$ :5 ,i 0 ne>4 ,aft] an h\r's walk 9 ! tee? ( ! w9d ,i _h _h en\gh1 & :ile ! o!r %eph]ds w5t on ) ! %eep1 ,kun*uk & ,i /ay$ 9 a cranny out ( sight ( ! lama's t5t1 :ile ,i c\ld look ov] all ! valley4 ,at l5g? ! o!r m5 came ) ,abdul ,k]im rid+ at _! head4 ,our coats & turbans 7 ( ! same col\r1 s t any ,tibetans :o happ5$ to be wat*+ c\ld n tell if x 7 ,abdul ,k]im or ,i t 0 rid+4 ,i n[ took my horse & w5t on 9 front ) my usual companions4 ,at elev5 o'clock ! /orm rose to a furi\s pit* & da%$ 9 our faces4 ,drifts& swept ov] ! gr\nd 9 d5se masses2 we 7 ne>ly suffocat$1 & we seem$ to /& /ill :ile ! c\ntry mov$ pa/ u at a giddy pace4 ,we cross$ ! valley 9 ord] to foll[ its we/]n flank4 ,! cl\ds ( du/ obscur$ ! sun2 no?+ c\ld be se5 beyond a di/ance ( #bj y>ds2 *aos surr\nd$ u4 ,we /opp$ to get our brea?1 & le/ we %\ld miss ! o!rs1 b z soon z !y appe>$ l phantoms 9 ! mi/ we set (f aga94 ,i h exp]i5c$ _m s&/orms 9 ,takla-makan & ! ,lob-nor des]t1 b h>dly any s bad z ?is 04 ,9 ,turke/an "o simply encamps :5 a /orm comes on1 b :at is ! use ( encamp+ to await ! end ( a /orm :i* la/s ?irty days8 ,we /ray$ among small dunes1 &1 ?\gh ! valley fell 9 ! direction we 7 travell+1 we seem$ z ?\gh we 7 m\nt+ to a l(ty pass 9 consequ5ce ( ! pressure ( ! /orm4 ,! drifts& rattl$ aga9/ my dry1 h>d coat1 :i*1 f ! con/ant friction1 became heavily *>g$ ) electricity4 ,ab\t e o!r m9ute !re 0 a dis*>ge1 & ,i felt uncom=table & (t5 pa9ful prick+s1 especially 9 ! soles ( ! feet1 ! h&s1 & knees4 ,at e su* dis*>ge ! horse also pull$ up & became n]v\s4 ,at la/1 :5 my grey ,tikze horse refus$ to g fur!r1 & we _h q lo/ sight ( ! o!rs1 & c\ld n see :]e we 7 go+1 we came to a halt & huddl$ toge!r ) our backs to ! w9d4 ,! electrical dis*>ges cont9u$ ev5 n[1 b 7 weak]4 ,if ,i plac$ ! tip ( a f+] ne> ,gulam's or ,kutus' h& a small electric sp>k 0 felt & se51 & bo? ( u felt ! %ock4 ,! m5 7 exce$+ly a/oni%$1 & hop$ x 0 n wit*craft4 ,we sat wait+ = ?ree h\rs1 & 7 prep>$ = an uncom=table night4 ,b ,kutus came ^u ! o!r m5 j :5 !y 7 giv+ up all attempt to f9d u be=e night4 ,we encamp$ among ! dunes1 & be=e long all articles :i* 7 set out 9 my t5t vani%$ "u a ?ick lay] ( s&4 ,on ! morn+ ( ! #aa? ! /orm _h some:at abat$2 &1 we>i$ & /iff aft] our exp]i5ces ( ! previ\s night1 we cont9u$ our j\rney s\?w>ds & encamp$ at a des]t$ %eepfold4 ,by n9e o'clock compact s&sp\ts twi/$ sl[ly ov] ! pla9 l spectres1 s ! /orm 0 aga9 at its usual height4 ,we _h tsamba = only "o day1 b x did n c\nt = mu* z long z we _h su* a good supply ( meat4 ,we 7 glad to get out ( rea* ( ! ,g]tse ,pun2 9 ?is drift+ s& x 0 impossible to f9d our trail--yes1 ev5 = our own dogs4 ,little ,puppy did n miss 8 "m1 b felt v important at be+ sole ma/] on ! gr\nd1 & b>k$ at our sob] %eep4 ,x 01 h[ev]1 a s]i\s matt] = u t we 7 depriv$ ( our night-wat* 9 di/ricts :]e we _h mo/ ne$ ( !m4 ,we mu/ try to procure fre% dogs z soon z possible4 ,on ,m>* ! #ab? we m>*$ ! usual we>y #f miles to ! ea/-s\?-ea/ ?r\gh a f9e1 broad1 longitud9al valley1 & pit*$ our camp 9 a holl[ full ( rubbi%4 ,our ?ree t5ts 7 n[ always plac$ close toge!r1 s t1 if any /rang] came unexpect$ly to my t5t1 ,i c\ld crawl into ,abdul ,k]im's )\t be+ se5 f outside4 ,my ,ladak *apkan began to assume a m satisfactory col\r1 b we /ill did all we c\ld to defile x & make x sooty & greasy4 ,little ,puppy l5t me 8 assi/ance by bit+ & te>+ ! sleeves s t !y hung 9 rags4 ,x w\ld n be long be=e ,i _h ! appe>ance ( a regul> ruffian4 ,x sn[$ heavily all night1 & 9 ! morn+ ! sn[ lay s deep1 & ! c\ntry 0 s ?ickly cov]$1 t we ?\ght x be/ to rema9 /ation>y4 ,we 7 /ill f>!r remov$ f ,br[n ,puppy1 & x 0 va9 = h] to seek our trail4 ,p]haps x 0 provid5tial t bo? %e & ! :ite horse 7 lo/ be=e !y c\ld betray u4 ,tibetans h wond]fully %>p eyes = animals1 & recognize !m aga9 :5 !y h se5 !m only once4 ,n[ ! dang] 0 ov]1 = all ! vet]ans _h gone4 ,p]haps ,puppy sacrific$ h]self t ,i might be successful6 ,all ! same1 ,i seem$ to see h] w&]+ disconsolate & di/ress$ ab\t ! desolate wa/es 9 ! nor?4 ,,*apt] ,,lxiii ,,?r\gh ,,! ,,highl&s ,,( ,,bongba ,:5 ,i awake to ano!r day ( unc]ta9 =tune & adv5tures life seems gloomy & solit>y1 & ! long] ! "t ! m ,i long = an end ( my difficulties4 ,:5 ,gulam awoke me on ! #ad?1 he compla9$ t ,abdul ,k]im did n keep ! wat* ,i _h giv5 him 9 ord]2 ei!r ! wat* or ! c>avan lead] 0 at fault1 b he believ$ x 0 ! latt]1 = ! wat* c\ld n be blam$ if x 7 w\nd up only e o!r day4 ,gulam affirm$ t :5 ,abdul ,k]im 0 ask$ :at o'clock x 01 he always answ]$ sev51 :atev] "t x might be 9 ! tw5ty-f\r h\rs4 ,! !rmomet] fell to -#aa 9 ! night1 b ! day 0 f9e4 ,! w9d blew z usual1 b ! sun came out & we ?\ght ( spr+ aga94 ,?ree %eph]ds 7 tak+ "s hundr$s ( %eep to ! we/1 :i* _h be5 driv5 (f f _! pa/urage by ! rec5t sn[ & 7 look+ = uncov]$ l&4 ,we 7 only a day's j\rney f ! ,tong-tso 7#ad1hjj feet71 !y said1 & ! ,tong-tso 0 ! po9t f :i* we 7 to />t s\?w>ds to trav]se unkn[n c\ntry4 ,if ,i succe$$ 9 cross+ x only by a s+le r\te1 all ! tr\bles ( ! pa/ w9t] w\ld n h be5 9 va94 ,! %eph]ds' in=mation 0 correct1 = ! next day we biv\ack$ on ! we/]n %ore ( ! ,tong-tso1 :i* we f\nd exactly at ! place :]e ! immortal pundit1 ,na9 ,s+1 ins]t$ x on 8 map4 ,to ! s\?-ea/ t[]$ ! huge massive ,%a-kang%am1 along ! nor!rn foot ( :i* ,i _h ridd5 9 #aija4 ,n[ we _h to f9d a conv5i5t pass ov] ! m\nta9 :i* b>r$ our way to ! s\?4 ,a gap 0 se5 to ! s\?-ea/1 & we direct$ our /eps t[>ds x4 ,on our "r1 two t5ts /ood at ! foot ( a hill1 & ,abdul ,k]im 0 s5t to !m :ile we encamp$ 9 a deep n>r[ rav9e1 at ! bottom ( :i* we f\nd a l>ge quantity ( w9d-driv5 kiang dung & dry tufts ( grass4 ,on 8 return1 our good lead] report$ t he 0 rudely receiv$ by two m51 nam$ ,nak*u ,tundup & ,nak*u ,hlundup1 :o came f ! di/rict ,nak*u1 ?ree days' j\rney di/ant to ! s\?1 & _h a wife 9 common4 ,!y fir/ ask$ h[ _m we 7 & h[ _m guns we _h1 j z ?\gh !y wi%$ to "k :e!r !y & _! neighb\rs might v5ture to attack u4 ,!y !n said t !y _h se5 a man rid+ at ! head ( our p>ty1 :ile all ! re/1 ,abdul ,k]im includ$1 w5t on foot1 & t x 0 n h>d to guess t ! m\nt$ man 0 a ,european4 ,:5 ,abdul ,k]im repli$ t no ,europeans travel 9 w9t]1 = !y are too mu* afraid ( ! cold1 & t we 7 only wool-buy]s f ,ladak1 ! ,tibetans %ook _! heads & answ]$ t !y _h nev] he>d ( ,ladakis travell+ 9 ?is c\ntry 9 w9t]4 ,b1 nev]!less1 ,abdul succe$$ 9 ga9+ _! confid5ce1 & :5 he _h paid d\ble ! m>ket price = two yaks & six %eep1 ! ,tibetans =got _! suspicions1 all = ! sake ( fil?y lucre4 ,! pur*ase 0 to be complet$ ! foll[+ morn+4 ,!n ! new animals 7 fet*$1 & _! c>ry+ p[] 0 a welcome assi/ance to our animals4 ,=tunately1 ! nomads _h 9 g5]al ! greate/ respect = our t5ts4 ,x 0 important = u to make lib]al b>ga9s ) m5 :o at fir/ _h be5 ho/ile to u4 ,on ! o!r h&1 !y (t5 ab/a9$ f betray+ u1 ev5 if !y _h suspicions1 = if x 7 kn[n t !y _h be5 well paid1 ! ne>e/ *ief w\ld confiscate _! receipts & w\ld also puni% ! un=tunate m5 :o _h d>$ to traffic ) suspect$ individuals4 ,dur+ ! day's m>* ,i rode 9 front z usual1 ) my two companions on foot4 ,a t5t lay conceal$ beh9d a cliff1 & we did n notice x until we 7 "s way pa/ x1 & !n x 0 too late to dism\nt4 ,two fell[s 7 outside & look$ aft] u1 & if !y comp>$ notes ) _! neighb\rs !y w\ld h good cause = suspicion4 ,at our camp t day we _h a visit f an old man & two "y p1 :o _h _! t5t ne> & came to see :at k9d ( m5 we 74 ,!y said t !y 7 v poor1 & begg$ = "s copp]s4 ,we 7 on ! bord] ( ! di/rict ,bongba-*angma1 :i* conta9s #cjj t5ts1 &1 l ! :ole prov9ce ( ,bongba1 is subject to ! gov]nor ,k>ma ,puntso1 ^: t5t /ood at a di/ance ( six days' j\rney to ! s\?4 ,he 0 a man ( tw5ty-five ye>s ( age1 liv$ 9 a l>ge t5t1 & _h be5 9 (fice only a ye>1 s9ce 8 fa!r di$4 ,x 0 assur+ to "k t he c\ld h no exp]i5ce ( ,europeans & _! crafty ways4 ,aft] ! /rang]s _h receiv$ a c\ple ( t5gas f ,abdul ,k]im1 !y w5t home aga9 9 ! rays ( ! ev5+ sun1 delight$ to f9d t we 7 n robb]s4 ,!n ! temp]ature fell to -#af2 ! w9t] 0 rem>kably try+1 b ! day1 ,m>* #ah1 0 /ill f9e1 & ,i travell$ all ! way on foot1 driv+ ! %eep :ile we 7 pass+ sev]al t5ts4 ,among !m 0 t ( our old man ( ! day be=e1 & he prov$ to be a man ( prop]ty1 :o sold u v>i\s mu*-ne$$ articles ( food4 ,on ! way ,tubges %ot sev5 p>tridges1 :]eupon two ,tibetans came =w>d & prote/$1 say+ t only ,europeans %ot p>tridges4 ,abdul ,k]im assur$ !m t he pref]r$ p>tridges to mutton4 ,aga9 !re 0 talk ( ,k>ma ,puntso4 ,p]haps x w\ld be bett] to *oose ano!r way4 ,no2 !n ! gov]nor w\ld be /ill m suspici\s4 ,we encamp$ on ! nor!rn side ( a small pass1 :]e we _h no tr\blesome neighb\rs4 ,m>* #ai4 ,breakfa/1 a delicate p>tridge & a cup ( tea1 0 j ov] :5 x 0 ann\nc$ t ?ree ,tibetans 7 com+ up to our t5ts4 ,b !y /opp$ at a respectful di/ance1 & ,abdul ,k]im w5t up to !m4 ,my t5t 0 op5$ 9 ?is direction1 b 0 clos$ aga9 j 9 "t4 ,! ,tibetans' err& 0 to ask if we _h any m$ic9e suitable = a man :o _h a pa9 9 ! foot4 ,9 reality1 _! object 0 to spy ^u u :5 we set out1 = !y /ay$ all ! "t & look$ ab\t4 ,aft] my h&s & face _h be5 col\r$ black1 ,i /ole by ! secret passage into ,abdul ,k]im's t5t1 :ile ,kutus & ,gulam crawl$ by ! same way into m9e to pack up4 ,!n ,i w5t ) ,lobsang & ,kutus1 & drove ! %eep up ! track lead+ to ! pass 7#af1ace feet74 ,we _h n gone f> :5 ,abdul ,k]im came rid+ on my horse & made frantic ge/ures to u to /op4 ,a ,tibetan horseman1 foll[$ by a big dog1 w\ld meet u 9 a few mom5ts on ! pa?4 ,we !re=e took a r\ndab\t way among hillocks1 :ile ! c>avan enc\nt]$ ! ,tibetan4 ,9 ?is way we escap$ ! dang]4 ,soon came ,kun*uk & ,s$ik1 lead+ ! dog ) a rope on ei!r side--a savage brute1 :i* b>k$ till he foam$ at ! m\?1 & tri$ to bite ^? :o 7 tak+ him away f 8 ma/]4 ,he 0 ( ! species call$ takk>1 & ,takk> 0 8 "n4 ,he rem9d$ me ( a ,/4 ,b]n>d2 he 0 coal black1 ) a :ite pat* on ! *e/ & neck1 & 0 z savage z a wolf4 ,!y _h b\ght him = #b rupees4 ,moreov]1 ,abdul ,k]im _h also b\ght ! rid]'s horse = #hf rupees1 & he came jogg+ *e]fully aft] u z we rode d[n f ! summit ( ! pass to a longitud9al valley ab\nd+ 9 t5ts & h]ds ( %eep & yaks1 & at two spots 7 se5 m\nt$ m51 :o look$ uncom=tably l a levy4 ,! new horse 0 elev5 ye>s old1 ! own] said1 & if he pass$ well ov] 8 fifte5? ye>1 he w\ld live to ?irty--b we did n want him s long4 ,he 0 a new memb] ( our troop & excit$ g5]al int]e/1 & ,takk> became quiet] :5 he saw an old fri5d & comrade 9 mis=tune4 ,at ! camp we _h to be c>eful1 = nomads dwelt ne> & %eph]ds w&]$ ) _! flocks on ! slopes ar\nd4 ,to prev5t ,takk> f runn+ away he 0 ti$ by ! neck to a t5t pole1 an op]ation by no means easy4 ,he 0 ti$ fa/ ) ropes1 8 legs 7 fett]$1 & a felt mat 0 ?r[n ov] him1 on :i* f\r m5 sat :ile ! o!rs made him fa/ to ! pole4 ,imm$iately he 0 let loose he ru%$ at ^? ne>e/ him1 b 0 held back by ! pole4 ,x 0 a s9 to drag him f home aga9/ 8 w2 he 0 ano!r ,uncle ,tom :o suff]$ = our sake1 b ,i hop$ t we %\ld soon und]/& ea* o!r4 ,to console him 9 8 captivity he 0 giv5 ! blood & entrails ( ! slaught]$ %eep4 ,we cross$ ano!r small pass 7#ai1ecg feet7 on ! #bj?1 & ! insignificant lake ,%>-tso1 :]e a f9e spr+ bubbles up out ( ! gr\nd by ! %ore4 ,f a c\ple ( t5ts to ! we/ we b\ght tea1 butt]1 & tsamba suffici5t = sev]al days1 & he>d aga9 ab\t ,k>ma ,puntso4 ,?is "t x 0 said t he liv$ ?ree days to ! we/1 & we hop$ to slip pa/ )\t any di/urbance4 ,! c\ntry ab\t camp #cei is call$ ,luma-%>1 & we /ay$ on ! nor!rn bank ( ! l>ge riv] ,kang%am-tsangpo1 :i* comes f ! nor!rn flank ( ,%a-kang%am1 ! huge massive :i* ,i left to ! s\? ( my r\te 9 #aija1 & :i* %[$ u a magnific5t view ( its we/]n side4 ,! m\nta9 lay ab\t a c\ple ( days' j\rney to ! s\?-ea/4 ,! next day we 7 to cross ! riv]1 an exce$+ly unpleasant bus9ess2 = ?\gh !re _h be5 #cb degrees ( fro/ 9 ! night ! ice1 except close to ! bank1 w\ld n be>4 ,abdul made an attempt ) 8 horse1 b ! animal came d[n on 8 nose 9 ! middle ( ! riv]4 ,!n ,lobsang took (f 8 boots & w5t across ! riv] b>efoot$1 & came back aga9 to help 9 conduct+ our pack animals g5tly & firmly across4 ,to get ! %eep ov] 0 ! wor/ difficulty2 !y _h to be pu%$ & pull$ by ! horns1 "o at a "t4 ,almo/ all ! m5 ( ! c>avan got a refre%+ ba? 9 ! /ream 7,illu/4 #cfc74 ,on ! o!r side we asc5d$ to a small pass :]e !re 0 a spl5did view ov] ! ridge1 :i* seem$ to run we/-s\?-we/ f ,%a-kang%am & :i* b>r$ our way to ! s\?4 ,abdul ,k]im1 ,kun*uk1 & ,s$ik w5t ) an exhau/$ mule to a few t5ts /&+ to ! "r ( our r\te1 ) ! object ( b>t]+ ! worn-out bea/ = a c\ple ( %eep1 b ! nomads said !y w\ld n take x z a gift4 ,in/ead1 our m5 b\ght rice1 s\r milk1 butt]1 salt1 & a %eep1 s t we 7 provid$ = "s days4 ,f ! camp also ,abdul ,k]im took a long walk to "s t5ts 9 ! neighb\rhood4 ,n[ poor ,abdul ,k]im _h to d p5ance = 8 s9s1 & if he _h err$ 9 tak+ too little b>ley f ,ladak1 he made up = x by 8 conduct on ?is adv5tur\s j\rney4 ,f camp #cfj ! highe/ peak ( ,%a-kang%am lay s\?1 #gc ,e4 7,illu/4 #cag74 ,takk> is /ill irreconcilable1 & he>tily dete/s ,kun*uk :o b\ght him4 ,b he also b>ks at u z soon z we %[ ourselves outside ! t5ts4 ,on ! m>* he is resign$ z long z he is ne> our new horse1 b at o!r times he is savage4 ,! only "o t d>es g ne> him is ,little ,puppy1 :o teases & sports ) him & bites 8 e>s4 ,takk> treats ,little ,puppy ) supreme contempt1 & only :5 ! "y "o presumes to snat* 8 new uncle's food he gr[ls angrily1 b !n ,little ,puppy pricks up 8 e>s1 puts 8 head on "o side1 & looks at him4 ,he little ?\ght t ! new dog c\ld h bitt5 (f 8 head l a *ick5's if he _h wi%$4 ,9 reality1 ,takk> 0 glad to h a playfell[ 9 8 captivity1 ?\gh at fir/ he held himself alo( to ma9ta9 8 dignity4 ,! next morn+ ,lobsang & ,tubges w5t back to ! nomads' t5t & return$ ) ?ree m %eep1 a lump ( butt]1 & a bag ( tobacco4 ,_! appetites 7 wond]ful to behold4 ,! o!rs _h left = !m half a pot ( tea mix$ ) butt]1 ?ick & r$4 ,"o cup disappe>$ aft] ano!r1 & !y empti$ ! pot to ! la/ drop4 ,!n !y took "s meat out1 :i* !y ate up l wild bea/s4 ,:at 0 left !y /uff$ into _! wai/belts1 to h x h&y 9 case !y 7 hungry be=e we rea*$ ! next camp4 ,we cont9u$ on our way to ! s\?1 pass+ on our left h& an op5 pla9 :i* ext5d$ up to ! foot ( ! skirts ( ,%a-kang%am4 ,we pass$ t5ts & flocks at "o or two places1 & encamp$ on a hill ( loose mat]ial beside a spr+4 ,! nomads ar\nd _h no?+ to sell1 b gave ,abdul ,k]im mu* valuable in=mation4 ,on su* occasions ,kun*uk us$ to sit & secretly note d[n all ! geographical names4 ,among o!r details we n[ he>d t if we held on our j\rney to ! s\? = sev5 days we %\ld fall 9 ) a ri* m]*ant f ,lhasa1 nam$ ,tsongpun ,ta%i1 :o 0 wont to take up 8 qu>t]s 9 w9t] 9 ! he>t ( ! ,bongba prov9ce to sell tea to ! nomads4 ,we might be c]ta9 t if we came into ! neighb\rhood ( 8 camp we %\ld aga9 be 9 a critical situation4 ,n[ ,lobsang & two wea!r-beat5 ,ladakis compla9$ t !y slept badly1 because x 0 too w>m 9 ! t5t4 ,! =m] wore a set ( und]clo!s1 & above only a g>m5t ( ?9 wooll5 mat]ial4 ,9 ?is co/ume he _h travell$ all ! way f ,drugub1 & slept 9 #gb degrees ( fro/ ) only a c\ple ( sacks ov] him1 = he _h sold 8 sk9 coat to "o ( 8 comrades at ! comm5cem5t ( ! j\rney4 ,only a ,tibetan c survive su* an exp]i5ce4 ,on ,m>* #bc we /ruggl$ up to ! ,*aklam-la1 :i* we also he>d call$ ,am*5-la4 ,! pa? up to x is /eep1 & we mov$ exce$+ly sl[ly up ! asc5t4 ,! %eep & ! two yaks beat u holl[4 ,f ! la/ t5t ! pa? 0 visible all ! way up to ! pass1 s ,i 0 oblig$ to travel on foot1 & ,i might h collaps$ f palpitation ( ! he>t & loss ( brea? if ,lobsang _h n gone beh9d & pu%$ me4 ,! lives ( two mules _h be5 ebb+ away dur+ ! previ\s days1 s ! animals 7 left :]e nomads c\ld take possession ( !m4 ,a black horse 0 also giv+ 91 & ! newly b\ght "o _h to take ov] 8 load4 ,my grey horse 0 no long] wor? mu*4 ,*aklam-la1 ) its #ag1cci feet1 0 a heavy trial to u1 & ,i 0 n delight$ ) ! view :i* unroll$ itself to ! s\?--a labyr9? ( m\nta9s1 :]e x 0 pla9 to see t ! ranges all /ret*$ f ea/ to we/4 ,f ! pass !re is a /eep desc5t to ! riv] ,sang*5-*u1 :i* fl[s we/w>ds4 ,we encamp$ on its bank4 ,n[ ,takk> 0 becom+ resign$ to 8 fate4 ,he 0 c]ta9ly annoy$ at be+ ti$ to ! pole1 b he f\nd t he got good & pl5tiful food & t we 7 k9d to him4 ,he b>k$ only at ,kun*uk1 :om he c\ld nev] =give4 ,:5 we broke up our camp on ,m>* #bd1 we hesitat$ :e!r we %\ld make = ! s\?-we/ or s\?-ea/1 = high m\nta9s rose to ! s\?4 ,if we w5t s\?-we/w>ds we %\ld come too ne> to ,k>ma ,puntso1 & s we *ose ! s\?-ea/]ly r\te4 ,we _h fir/ to cross ! ice ( ! riv]1 #acj y>ds broad1 :]e a pa? 0 s&$4 ,! %eep _h to be dragg$ ov] "o by "o by ! horns1 & ! yaks w\ld n v5ture on ! ice till !y saw t x bore ! horses & mules4 ,gulam w5t fir/ on foot1 & _h ! usual ord] to give a sign if he saw a t5t or %eph]ds4 ,we _h n gone f> :5 he /ret*$ out 8 left h&1 :i* meant t ,i mu/ dism\nt & g on foot :ile ,abdul ,k]im rode my horse4 ,x 0 only a %eph]d ) 8 flock4 ,z soon z ! dang] 0 pa/ ,i ex*ang$ places ) ! c>avan lead]4 ,a little f>!r on ,i f\nd t ,i _h lo/ my cig>ette case1 :i* also conta9$ "s unm\nt$ family portraits & "o or two pieces ( /ick+-pla/]4 ,x w\ld be t]rible if a ,tibetan f\nd x4 ,only a ,european c\ld own su* a ?+4 ,lobsang & ,kutus w5t back & se>*$ along ! track :ile ,i lay & wait$ on a bank4 ,!y f\nd ! case1 & ea* receiv$ a cig>ette z a rew>d1 & we sat & smok$ :ile ,abdul ,k]im ) ,kun*uk & ,tubges w5t d[n to a t5t1 :]e !re 7 only wom51 & b\ght "s provisions4 ,at ! camp 9 ! ev5+ sn[ fell1 & at night ! !rmomet] sank to z]o4 ,n[ we _h only #ba %eep left1 & we mu/ try to increase our flock1 or1 /ill bett]1 buy a doz5 horses4 ,9 ?is region1 & 9 ,bongba g5]ally1 x 0 difficult to buy %eep4 ,ev]y:]e ! nomads compla9$ t _! flocks _h be5 decimat$ by ! cold1 w9d1 & sn[1 & ! pa/urage 0 unusually poor1 because ! ra9s _h fail$ at ! end ( ! prec$+ summ]4 ,%eep-bre$+ is _! means ( subsi/5ce1 & if !y lose _! flocks !y are impov]i%$ & c d no?+ b w&] ab\t begg+ f m =tunate p4 ,!y h !re=e a decid$ objection to dim9i% _! flocks by artificial means1 z we may say2 ! flocks mu/ fluctuate1 increas+ 9 good times & dim9i%+ 9 bad1 b !y mu/ n be r$uc$ by sale4 ,!re=e !y (t5 refuse to sell ev5 at d\ble ! prop] price4 ,/ill h>d] 0 x to buy horses 9 ,bongba4 ,9 ! night our animals w&]$ back to ! =m] camp4 ,:ile ,lobsang & ,kutus w5t aft] !m mo/ ( ! day slipp$ by1 & !re=e we rema9$ at camp #cfc4 ,kun*uk & ,tubges spi$ a t5t 9 a valley to ! s\?1 :]e !y b\ght rice1 b>ley1 tsamba1 milk1 & *ura--a k9d ( *eese1 s t we _h food = sev]al days4 ,?us we got our livelihood 9 small portions1 bit by bit & f t5t to t5t4 ,our own flock _h n[ %runk to #ba head1 all c>ry+ burd5s4 ,a solit>y wild-goose flew scream+ ov] our camp4 ,_h he got lo/1 or 0 he a sc\t s5t out to see if ! ice 7 brok5 up on ! lakes to ! nor?8 ,d\btless he w\ld soon return to 8 tribe & make 8 report4 ,x seem$ to me t he _h be5 despat*$ too soon4 ,f ,febru>y #bd to ,m>* #bd we _h trav]s$ only #aij miles1 ow+ to ! cutt+ /orm1 loss ( animals1 & n[ at l5g? ! difficult c\ntry4 ,we n[ seldom made a day's m>* ( z mu* z #g miles4 ,x is mo/ irritat+ t a t5t1 l a s5t9el-box or a spy+ eye1 always /&s at ! nor!rn foot ( a pass1 s t ,i h to walk all ! way4 ,?is day also1 :5 we crept up to ! ,san*5-la1 a small %elt] /ood on ! saddle1 #ag1egb feet high4 ,s\?w>ds !re 7 /ill m m\nta9s4 ,at a di/ance ( #bj to #be miles nor?1 #fj ,e41 rose ! highe/ peak ( ,%a-kang%am1 a f9e sight 9 ! beautiful wea!r1 :5 n a cl\d ob/ruct$ ! view4 ,five ,ovis ,ammons c>e]$ 9 nimble & ela/ic spr+s ov] ! heights1 & small agile ,goa antelopes leap$ along ! s\!rn slope1 :]e we scrambl$ d[n among detritus4 ,! ,pan?olops antelope is n se5 9 ?is region4 ,close to :]e we encamp$ at ,nema-tok 0 a t5t1 & ! inmates sold u a %eep's load ( rice4 ,an old man1 :om my fell[s call$ famili>ly ava or fa!r1 came to look at our black horse :i* we wi%$ to sell1 z x c\ld evid5tly n travel mu* f>!r4 ,b ! old man said he w\ld n give a rap = ! horse4 ,he in=m$ u t 9 n9e days nomads f all qu>t]s w\ld repair to ! place :]e ,k>ma ,puntso dwelt1 to buy tea & pay _! taxes to ! ,gov]nm5t4 ,tsongpun ,ta%i 0 a p[]ful & influ5tial man1 he said4 ,we drew ne> to ?is pot5tate ) a feel+ ( uneas9ess & gr[+ respect4 ,he enjoys peculi> privileges f ! ,deva%ung4 ,he sells tea to ! nomads on cr$it4 ,:5 !y sell _! %eep's wool 9 summ] at ! tasam !y pay _! debts to him 9 t5gas or 9 goods4 ,tsongpun ,ta%i makes a good pr(it on ^! transactions1 & !re=e x is to 8 int]e/ to /& well ) ! ,deva%ung4 ,if he1 :o mu/ h ! reputation ( be+ m intellig5t & s5sible ?an ! simple nomads1 7 to let u pass by ) impunity1 he w\ld h to answ] = x to ! ,deva%ung & w\ld lose 8 privileges4 ,we 7 !re=e evid5tly com+ to a mo/ critical mom5t4 ,no?+ v5ture1 no?+ h6 ,if ,i w\ld explore ! blank space 9 ! he>t ( :i* ,i n[ f\nd myself1 ,i mu/ expose myself to v>i\s annoyances & run great risks4 ,= a mod]ately intellig5t man x c\ld be no p>ticul> pleasure to g on foot ?r\gh desolate wa/es l a vagabond1 & drive a flock ( refractory %eep4 ,i 0 already ?or\ghly we>y ( ?is "w1 = ,i _h no tal5t or tra9+ to p]=m x prop]ly4 ,i _h to pa9t myself black e morn+ l a negro1 & ,i sat ) a bru% be=e ! look+-glass1 sme>+ my face ?ree times ov] to produce an ev5ly d>k complexion4 ,my eyes 7 conceal$ ) a pair ( l>ge r\nd ,tibetan spectacles ) my own poli%$ glasses fix$ inside4 ,?is "t ,i 0 mu* m c>efully disguis$ ?an 9 #aija1 :5 ,i tri$ to get ?r\gh to ,lhasa z a ,mongol1 b 0 held fa/ 9 ! /rong claws ( ,kamba ,bombo4 ,my turban 0 too :ite1 s x 0 dipp$ 9 a dye ( boil$ butt] & a%es1 & became at once q %abby4 ,my s(t lea!r boots 7 9 holes1 s t ! toes came out4 ,x 0 well t ,i ran no risk ( meet+ acqua9tances f ,/ockholm or ,london4 ,?is j\rney 0 pa9ful & try+ to ! n]ves4 ,day & night ,i liv$ 9 ! greate/ anxiety le/ ,i %\ld be discov]$ & ignom9i\sly unmask$4 ,! f>!r we advanc$ s\?w>ds ! m ,i 0 tr\bl$ by ?is appreh5sion4 ,%\ld we succe$1 or %\ld we be =c$ back :5 we _h trav]s$ only half ! di/ance across ! blank space8 ,%\ld ,i nev] cross ! ,trans-,himalaya aga98 ,at e /age our wat*fulness & cauti\sness increas$1 & also ! t5sion ( our n]ves4 ,i mu/ always be on my gu>d & nev] hold a cig>ette 9 my h& :5 we 7 on ! m>*4 ,my map %eets & compass ,i ?ru/ into my bosom to be ne> at h&4 ,:5 ,i collect$ a rock specim51 took a be>+ ) ! compass1 or made a draw+ ne> a t5t1 ,lobsang _h to scre5 me1 & he became a/oni%+ly adept at ?is game4 ,! sun ,i c\ld obs]ve only :5 we 7 q sure t no ,tibetan c\ld see ! in/rum5t4 ,sometimes ,i sat & drew a panorama ?r\gh a peephole 9 ! t5t clo?4 ,! %eep 7 my refuge1 & ) !m ,i set out fir/1 & _h n to take "p 9 ! pack+ & load+1 & ,i 0 sp>$ f wat*+ ! animals at night1 z 9 #aija4 ,9 bo? cases ,i 0 practically a prison] 9 my t5t1 :]e ! ev5+ h\rs seem$ v long4 ,no?+ is s try+ & irritat+ to ! m9d z ?is anxiety 9 :i* ,i liv$1 travell+ 9 disguise1 & expect+ any mom5t to come to a crisis 9 my fate4 ,,*apt] ,,lxiv ,,tsongpun ,,ta%i ,m>* #bg4 ,ne>ly -#d 9 ! night--/ill w9t]4 ,b at "o o'clock ! temp]ature rose to #df--spr+ 0 com+4 ,an old man sold u f\r %eep 9 ! morn+1 & !n pr[l$ ab\t our t5ts4 ,he c\ld n at all und]/& :y we _h come hi!r1 especially at ?is season1 b ,abdul ,k]im told him t :5 we left ,tok-jalung ! mo/ sev]e cold 0 ov]4 ,?is 0 a new /ory we _h inv5t$1 because x 0 m probable ?an ! =m]1 & w\ld pass bett] 9 ! s\!rn p>ts ( ! c\ntry4 ,"h1 also1 /ood ! usual t5t ) a view up to ! pass1 & ,i 0 oblig$ to g on foot up to ! summit ( ! ,ladung-la ) its #ag1cie feet4 ,b "h ! view 0 enc\rag+2 we _h level or decl9+ gr\nd be=e u = f\r days4 ,! desc5t f ! pass to ! s\? 0 precipit\s1 & we /umbl$ & slid ?r\gh ! rubbi%1 :i* rattl$ d[n beh9d u1 & ,i _h ! satisfaction ( ru9+ my boots & clo!s m ?an ev]4 ,! valley turn$ (f to ! "r1 s\?-we/1 & 9 ! ,janglung di/rict1 :]e we encamp$1 a "y %eph]d in=m$ u t we %\ld come to ,tsongpun ,ta%i's t5t next day4 ,num]\s spr+s bubbl$ up f ! valley bottom & =m$ a little cle> brook full ( fi% betwe5 grassy sw>ds4 ,"h "s ( u halt$ & us$ ,kutus's girdle z a net4 ,at ! fir/ haul we caught #ah fi%1 & we did n cease till we _h #afj--n l>ge ones1 b q suffici5t to fe$ all ?irte5 ( u4 ,x 0 amus+ to see ,little ,puppy z he /ood wat*+ att5tively & reg>d+ ! sprawl+ fi%es1 b>k+ & %ak+ 8 head4 ,he _h nev] 9 8 life se5 runn+ wat] be=e1 & mu/ h suppos$ t he c\ld walk ^u x z safely z on cle> ice4 ,q unsuspici\sly he jump$ d[n f ! grass1 :]e ! brook 0 #b feet deep1 & entirely disappe>$ "u ! wat]4 ,:5 he _h1 ) mu* difficulty1 /ruggl$ up aga91 he 0 mu* amaz$ & disconc]t$1 & pr[l$ ab\t gr[l+ ) displeasure at ! cold ba?4 ,aft] t he kept f> away f ! deceitful brook4 ,m>* #bh4 ,n[ we saw t we c\ld tru/ ,takk>1 s we let him loose4 ,he did n run away1 b 0 9 ! be/ ( temp]s1 & flew l an arr[ ov] ! slopes1 enjoy+ 8 fre$om1 & play$ ) ,little ,puppy1 :o became furi\s :5 ! huge brute came rac+ d[n on him ) playful leaps1 s t he roll$ ov] & ov] on ! gr\nd4 ,abdul ,k]im 0 to g on ! new horse ) ! ,ladaki saddle1 accompani$ by two m51 to look out = ,tsongpun ,ta%i4 ,he _h pl5ty ( money to buy any?+ he might f9d1 & 9 reply to se>*+ que/ions he 0 to say t we _h ord]s f ,gulam ,razul to meet "o ( 8 c>avans 9 ,raga-tasam1 :i* 9 ab\t t5 days 0 to leave ,lhasa1 & !n accompany x to ,ladak4 ,i _h to ride my grey horse b>eback$1 b ,i _h n got f> be=e we pass$ two t5ts1 :]e f\r ,tibetans came out to look at u4 ,two ( our m5 w5t & talk$ to !m :ile ! re/ ( u foll[$ ! brook ?r\gh ! valley4 ,a little fur!r & we _h to be c>eful aga91 = !re 7 ?ree m t5ts & two l>ge flocks1 ! own] ( :i* possess$ #cjjj %eep4 ,%eepfolds1 old camp+-places1 & manis 7 all ar\nd1 = we 7 on a great highway1 & !re=e ,i kept close to ! %eep1 & :i/l$ & %\t$ at !m4 ,at ! m\? ( a side valley1 on ! left1 /ood a l>ge :ite t5t ) blue bord]s1 :i* 0 said to belong to ! *ief ( ! di/rict1 ! ,gova ,*yky+4 ,a man came out ( ! t5t1 hurri$ aft] u1 & ask$ :5ce we came & :i!r we 7 go+4 ,two wom5 came out ( a t5t inhabit$ by begg>s1 & put ! same que/ions4 ,a mile or s f>!r we 7 out ( sight ( t5ts1 & ,i jump$ on my grey horse1 b ,i c\ld n ride f>1 = m t5ts appe>$ f>!r d[n ! valley4 ,we encamp$ by ! side ( ! brook 9 ! ,kung-%]ya c\ntry1 :]e ! valley is v broad & op51 & t5ts are se5 9 _m directions4 ,f "o ( ^!1 :i* /ood bel[ ours1 a man came & made inquiries4 ,he said t "o ( ! t5ts1 :i* look$ l>ge & important1 belong$ to ,takyung ,lama1 abbot ( ,m5dong-gompa1 a mona/]y ?ree days' j\rney to ! s\?-ea/4 ,n[ we 7 9 a w>m corn]1 ) ! di/rict *ief1 a high lama1 & ,tsongpun ,ta%i z ne> neighb\rs1 & ! ,gov]nor ( ! great prov9ce ( ,bongba n f> (f4 ,x w\ld be a m>vel if we succe$$ 9 mak+ our way out ( ?is wasps' ne/4 ,"o ?+ 0 c]ta91 t we mu/ make (f next morn+1 be=e news ( our arrival _h spread ab\t4 ,aft] we _h wait$ sev]al h\rs ,abdul ,k]im came4 ,we c\ld see at a long di/ance t he _h b\ght a horse1 :i* 0 lad5 ) sacks & bags conta9+ rice1 b>ley1 butt]1 & tsamba4 ,tsongpun ,ta%i prov$ to be an old man ( a pov]ty-/rick5 & mean appe>ance1 b 8 l>ge t5t 0 full ( goods1 sacks1 & packets ( tea1 & 8 movable %op 0 v well /ock$4 ,naturally he 0 mu* surpris$ at ! visit1 b he swall[$ ! /ory t ,abdul ,k]im di%$ up = him4 ,he _h ev5 giv5 him ! names ( all ! places :]e we ought to camp on ! way to ,saka-dzong & ,raga-tasam1 & advis$ u to be well on our gu>d 9 a di/rict he call$ ,bupgo-la?it1 :]e !re 7 always robb]s4 ,he relat$ t a b& ( robb]s _h1 a few weeks be=e1 attack$ & plund]$ ,t>gyal+-gompa1 ! mona/]y :]e we _h met ) su* a ho/ile reception 9 ,june ( ! prec$+ ye>4 ,=ty m5 ) horses & guns _h be5 levi$ to *ase ! b&1 b ,tsongpun ,ta%i said t ^! =ty m5 7 little bett] ?an robb]s !mselves1 & t we ought to inquire ab\t !m1 s z to avoid !m z !y return$4 ,abdul ,k]im promis$ ,tsongpun ,ta%i to b>t] our sick black horse = "s provisions1 b ,abdul ,k]im did n "k t ,abdullah _h already ex*ang$ ! horse at ! begg>s' t5t = two %eep & a goat4 ,!re ! fai?ful horse w\ld see happy days aga9 :5 ! grass grew up4 ,aft] ,abdul ,k]im _h drunk tea he w5t on to visit ! ,gova ,*yky+1 :o came out ( 8 t5t & said t ,takyung ,lama _h t v day impos$ on him eight days' yangguk--t means t he mu/ n transact any k9d ( bus9ess1 b mu/ devote himself entirely1 on acc\nt ( 8 s9s1 to contemplation 9 8 own h\se4 ,t 0 f9e = u2 ! ,gova 0 r$uc$ to a negligible quantity4 ,m>* #bi4 ,temp]ature #ac 9 ! night1 & #ee at sev5 o'clock--?is is spr+4 ,welcome mild salubri\s breezes1 come to ?aw our froz5 jo9ts6 ,e>ly 9 ! morn+ came a c\ple ( our m5 tramp+ along ) ano!r dog1 light yell[1 dirty1 & loa?some4 ,he 0 inhospitably receiv$ by ,takk>1 :o imm$iately gave him a %>p p9* 9 ! neck1 & seem$ to ?9k t ! new memb] ( ! c>avan 0 q sup]flu\s z long z he kept wat* himself4 ,f> 9 ! nor? a solit>y ,tibetan appe>$1 & approa*$ our camp4 ,i 0 sitt+ at breakfa/1 & 0 hop+ t we %\ld soon leave ?is dang]\s place4 ,i w5t out & look$ ?r\gh ! field-glass2 ! /rang] 0 mak+ /raight = our t5ts4 ,soon ,abdul ,k]im came & said t x 0 ,tsongpun ,ta%i himself4 ,he /opp$ at "s di/ance & call$ to u to tie up our dogs1 = ,takk> _h ru%$ at ! old man1 :o def5d$ himself ) /ones4 ,! m5 7 purposely sl[ 9 fa/5+ up ! dogs1 9 ord] to give me "t to put ! int]ior ( my t5t 9 ord]4 ,on su* occasions my note-books & in/rum5ts 7 cramm$ into a rice sack1 :i* always /ood ready4 ,!re 0 no o!r furniture1 = we _h burn$ all ,european articles & boxes long be=e4 ,mean:ile1 ,abdul ,k]im conduct$ ,tsongpun ,ta%i into 8 t5t1 :i* /ood close aga9/ m9e1 & ,i li/5$ to _! conv]sation at a di/ance ( little m ?an a y>d4 ,by degrees ! talk became1 to say ! lea/ ( x1 lively4 ,tsongpun ,ta%i rais$ 8 voice m & m1 & ,abdul ,k]im 0 evid5tly 9 a s]i\s dilemma4 ,did y n promise to give me ! black horse 9 ex*ange = butt]8 ,br+ ! horse imm$iately4 ,if y d n keep y\r ^w1 ,i w deta9 ! :ole pack ( y "h4 ,we d n let m5 t break _! ^w escape 9 ,bongba4 ,i ?\ght ye/]day t y 7 hone/ m51 b n[ ,i see :at y are up to4 ,n[ ,i %all beg9 by se>*+ y\r t5ts4 ,) t he got up z angry z a wasp & w5t out4 ,b ,gulam1 :o 0 always al]t & nev] lo/ a ^w ( a conv]sation1 _h let ,takk> loose aga94 ,z soon z ,tsongpun ,ta%i %[$ himself at ! t5t door ! dog flew at him aga94 ,he back$1 & ,abdul seiz$ ! opportunity to call out 9 a gruff voice3 ,kutus1 take ,hajji ,baba ) y & g & look = ! lo/ horse4 ,:at horse is t8 ask$ ,tsongpun4 ,x is "o ( our horses :i* has run away up ! m\nta91 & we _c set out till we h f\nd him4 ,:at col\r is he8 ask$ ,tsongpun ) uncom=table inquisitiv5ess4 ,grey1 repli$ ,abdul ,k]im1 :o _h difficulty 9 conceal+ 8 uneas9ess1 = x 0 he :o _h pl$g$ ! black /e$ )\t kn[+ :e!r x 0 /ill 9 our possession4 ,v well1 ,i %all /ay "h till y h f\nd ! grey horse4 ,dur+ ! m9ute ?is conv]sation la/$ ,tsongpun ,ta%i _h walk$ t[>ds ! op5+ ( my t5t1 :5 ,kutus came runn+ up f ! o!r side1 seiz$ me by ! coll>1 & :isp]$ ,come4 ,we hurri$ (f to a crag on ! nor?-ea/1 & s j escap$ ! clut*es ( ,tsongpun4 ,:at man is t8 ! old man ask$1 po9t+ at me1 z ,i 0 mak+ (f ) clumsy waddl+ /eps4 ,hajji ,baba1 "o ( my s]vants1 answ]$ ,abdul ,k]im1 )\t mov+ a muscle4 ,we did n look r\nd z we w5t (f to ! po9t1 & 7 glad :5 at l5g? we 7 hidd5 by a project+ rock4 ,!n we scrambl$ up a fissure :5ce we c\ld see all ar\nd4 ,"h we lay a we>y "t ) our he>ts 9 our m\?s1 :ile ,tsongpun ,ta%i wait$ = ! runaway horse1 :i* _h n run away at all1 = all our animals /ood ready lad5 be=e our t5ts4 ,b he mu/ h lo/ pati5ce4 ,aft] ,gaff> _h gone to ! t5t to try & get back ! black horse1 b met ) a refusal1 = ! horse _h be5 f$ ) b>ley & 0 gett+ on spl5didly1 ,tsongpun ,ta%i seem$ to make 9 t direction himself1 accompani$ by ,gaff>4 ,b he *ang$ 8 m9d1 = he turn$ back half-way1 & soon we saw him go+ to ! f9e t5t ( ! s\l-doctor1 :i* /ood ab\t #cjj y>ds f>!r d[n ! valley4 ,he 0 att5d$ by "o ( our m51 :o help$ him to c>ry ! sacks 9 :i* ! goods acquir$ ! previ\s day 7 pack$4 ,we rema9$ quiet 9 our hid+-place ( mu*-wea!r$ gre5 s*i/1 full ( qu>tz ve9s1 f :i* we c\ld peep out )\t be+ se54 ,we 7 suppos$ to be look+ = ! lo/ horse4 ,b n[ ! c>avan 0 ready1 & began to move d[n ! valley pa/ ! abbot's t5t4 ,tsongpun ,ta%i's err& _h be5 to take f>ewell ( ! prelate1 :o 0 sett+ out ?is day = ,m5dong-gompa1 absolutely unkn[n 9 all ! maps 9 ! _w1 & 8 yaks /ood te!r$ & surr\nd$ by a troop ( s]vants4 ,abdul ,k]im 0 %rewd en\gh to s5d no mess5g] aft] u1 b leave u to take c>e ( ourselves4 ,& s we did :5 we _h _h en\gh ( ! gre5 s*i/--we c\ld n lie /ill till doomsday4 ,b we _h to pass ! abbot's t5t1 & !re sat ,tsongpun ,ta%i1 unless he 7 among ! m5 outside4 ,we sneak$ on4 ,kutus walk$ next ! t5t to scre5 me4 ,my disguise 0 p]fect1 & ,i _h a black face4 ,we pass$ ) "s trepidation q close to ! t5t2 two savage dogs ru%$ at u & we ?rew /ones at !m1 !reby d]ang+ our ord] ( m>* & mak+ a *ange ( front4 ,conf\nd$ dogs6 ,we _h pass$ ! t5t1 &1 s f>1 _h done well4 ,b if ,tsongpun ,ta%i notic$ u--& he c\ld sc>cely fail to d s1 = ! dogs b>k$ s furi\sly--he w\ld c]ta9ly wond] 9 :i* direction ! grey horse _h made (f4 ,if he _h no suspicion ( u he mu/ be1 beyond comp>ison1 ! greate/ ass t ,i _h ev] fall5 9 )4 ,we made ha/e & soon ov]took ! o!rs1 & 7 lo/ among !m4 ,! valley slop$ d[n--a =tunate ?+ = me1 z ,i _h to travel on foot :]e s _m pitfalls surr\nd$ me on all sides4 ,abdul ,k]im rode gr&ly on my horse at ! head ( ! p>ty4 ,on ! left 7 a :ite-&-blue & a black t5t ) tw5ty yaks4 ,two m5 hurri$ up to u1 & ,abdul ,k]im met & spoke to !m4 ,we m>*$ along ! ice belt ( ! brook1 & pass$ five m t5ts1 &1 at all1 ! m5 came out to look at u4 ,i walk$ ) ! %eep f>!r f ! t5ts ?an ! c>avan4 ,we pass$ tw5ty t5ts t day2 x 0 a dang]\s /ret* ( c\ntry1 & x 0 /range t we came ?r\gh safely4 ,a woman1 c>ry+ a load ( wool on h] back1 ov]took u4 ,%e 0 s bold z to jo9 h]self to ! c>avan & ask to be all[$ to put h] wool on "o ( ! yaks4 ,nev] h ,i s he>tily wi%$ a woman at ! devil4 ,abdul ,rasak took ! woman 9 h& & (f]$ to c>ry half h] load to h] t5t1 & s !y jogg$ along ! road f> ahead1 & fre$ u f h] suspici\s company4 ,we took x = grant$ t %e 0 a spy4 ,:5 we encamp$ bel[ a %eepfold1 !re %e 0 aga91 e/abli%$ h]self inside ! fold1 light$ a fire & fet*$ wat]4 ,%e mu/ dr9k tea be=e %e w5t on homew>ds1 %e said2 b =tunately %e toddl$ (f be=e dusk4 ,i sat 9 ! sett+ sun & not$ d[n ! v>i$ incid5ts ( ! day4 ,i sat 9 ! op5+ ( my t5t enjoy+ ! soo?+ ru/le ( ! spr+1 :5 :at %\ld ,i see b ,takk> himself1 :o came up to me anxi\sly & humbly1 made ! mo/ expressive ge/ures1 put 8 head on "o side & began to paw my arm4 ,i look$ at him & he look$ at me1 & at la/ we und]/ood ea* o!r4 ,i c\ld n "k1 he said1 t y 7 nice m5 :5 y ti$ me by ! neck to ?is horrible t5t pole4 ,i ?\ght t y w\ld tease & torm5t & />ve me1 & ?r[ /ones & dirt at me1 z ! ,tibetans h done ev] s9ce ,i c rememb]4 ,b ,i see t y are well dispos$ t[>ds me1 & give me two good meals ( mutton e day4 ,i "k t y1 9 spite ( y\r rags1 are a bombo-*imbo1 & t ,abdul ,k]im is only a s]vant4 ,be at ease1 ,i w n let any "o come ne> y\r t5t2 ,i w wat* ov] y at night1 ,i w nev] betray y1 ,i w foll[ y ev]y:]e2 y may tru/ 9 me4 ,b n[ come & play ) me a little2 take away ?is useless t5t pole1 & let u be no long] /rang]s4 ,8 %rewd br[n eyes %[$ pla9ly t ?is 0 :at he meant to say1 ^w = ^w4 ,i took 8 %aggy head 9 my arms & squeez$ x4 ,!n he jump$ up on me & began to dance & yelp ) joy1 & entic$ me out ( my t5t4 ,!n ,i took hold ( him aga91 unti$ ! knots1 & releas$ him f 8 pole1 to ! great a/oni%m5t ( my m51 :o 7 sitt+ 9 ! op5 ar\nd a fire4 ,no "o _h ev] v5tur$ s ne> to ,takk>1 except ,little ,puppy1 & )\t ! slighte/ jeal\sy ! little cub jo9$ 9 ! game1 :i* h5ce=? :il$ away daily a c\ple ( h\rs ( my we>y captivity4 ,,*apt] ,,lxv ,,buptsang-,,tsangpo1 ,,"o ,,( ,,! ,,l>ge/ ,,riv]s ,,( ,,! ,,he>t ,,( ,,tibet ,x 0 ) a feel+ ( relief t we broke up our camp on ,m>* #cj1 aft] we _h succe$$ 9 extricat+ ourselves f ! net :i* _h s ne>ly held u fa/ 9 its me%es4 ,?r\gh "h runs ! s-call$ ,s]pun-lam1 or gold-inspectors' road1 :i* ext5ds ?r\gh ! int]ior ( ,tibet f ,lhasa to ,tok-jalung1 & is "o ( ! greate/ high-roads ( ! c\ntry4 ,we did n yet feel q safe1 b we _h he>d "s assur+ news3 ,k>ma ,puntso _h tak5 a j\rney ( sev]al days nor?w>ds to a place 9 ,*ang-tang :]e he own$ l>ge flocks ( %eep4 ,mo/ ( ! nomads 9 ,bongba _h s5t _! %eep to ! nor?1 :]e ! graz+ 0 mu* bett]4 ,?is 0 ( great advantage to u1 = n[ only wom51 old m51 & *ildr5 rema9$ 9 ! t5ts ( ,bongba1 :ile mo/ ( ! m5 7 foll[+ ! %eep4 ,x 0 "p ( ! trial ( my pati5ce t ,i c\ld n h ! slighte/ deal+s ) ,tibetans1 = ,i %\ld h betray$ myself at once by my defective utt]ance ( ! language4 ,i nev] talk$ ) !m1 b pull$ ! /r+s ( my m>ionettes f my place ( concealm5t4 ,! wild-geese _h n[ comm5c$ _! migrations1 & we con/antly he>d _! cries above our t5ts4 ,on ,m>* #cj we f\nd an excell5t pa? along ! riv] 9 :i* we _h caught fi% j bel[ ,ladung-la4 ,! c\ntry 0 v op5 & flat1 & we pass$ at "s di/ance f twelve t5ts4 ,ne> ! la/ we pit*$ camp #cfh1 & b\ght a black horse4 ,we _h n[ f\r horses1 ( :i* "o 0 a vet]an f ,ladak2 n[ ,i rode ! fir/ horse we _h b\ght--a br[n "o4 ,! la/ ?ree mules & ! two yaks f ! ,tsong-tso 7 9 good condition4 ,:5 we encamp$ ne> natives1 ,takk> 0 ti$ up outside ! entrance to my t5t to keep (f inquisitive visitors4 ,he _h be5 br$ & re>$ among ,tibetans1 & _h nev] se5 any o!r p 9 8 life till lately1 & yet n[ he became mad ) rage if he saw a ,tibetan only at a di/ance4 ,i _h (t5 to pay v>i\s sums 9 rupees to ^? ( 8 two-legg$ fell[-c\ntrym5 ^: unprotect$ legs he _h bitt51 & he 0 nev] cont5t$ )\t a slight effusion ( blood4 ,we foll[$ ! riv] s\?-s\?-we/w>ds = ano!r day's j\rney to camp #cfi1 :]e "s poor nomads 7 encamp+ by a %eet ( sn[4 ,%a-kang%am's summit came into sight aga91 ?is "t to ! nor?1 #cj ,e41 ris+ l a gigantic beacon above ! m\nta9s4 ,five days' j\rney to ! we/-nor?-we/ 0 po9t$ out ! salt lake1 ,tabie-tsaka1 ! position ( :i* ,i _h s\ght 9 va9 to asc]ta9 f ! tasam4 ,9 ! aft]noon :5 ,i sat outside to draw a panorama1 nomads 7 /roll+ & pe]+ ab\t1 s t ,i _h to po/ wat*m54 ,9 ! ev5+ all ar\nd 0 pit*-d>k3 !re 0 no moon1 only d5se cl\ds4 ,our animals _h disappe>$1 & z !re 0 good reason to fe> wolves & horse-/eal]s1 eight m5 7 s5t out to look = !m4 ,!y _h revolv]s1 & fir$ a few %ots to let any possible di/urb]s ( ! peace "k t we 7 arm$4 ,! animals w\ld n freeze1 = ! temp]ature fell 9 ! night only to #ah1 & 9 ! morn+ !y _h come back aga9 all "r4 ,! only "o miss+ 0 ! greyi%-yell[ dog2 ?9k+1 p]haps1 t he _h fall5 into bad company1 he _h gnaw$ ?r\gh 8 rope & run home 9 ! night to 8 mis]able t5t4 ,n[ ! pa? runs s\?-s\?-we/ up to ! little easy pass ,satsot-la 7#ae1icb feet71 9 r$ porphyry & ) a way-m>k4 ,9 ! wide valley 9 front ( u lies ! lake ,*unit-tso1 & on its f>!r side rises a r$ m\nta9 ( regul> =m4 ,we pass sev]al manis1 & on ! "r h& a m9iature lake call$ ,*abuk-tso1 :]e ,tubges %ot two wild-geese4 ,! honor>y huntsman (t5 suppli$ me ) game2 he 0 call$ by 8 comrades simply ,%yok1 aft] 8 home1 j z we call "o ( our acqua9tances ,jnkp+ or ,fal/]bo4 ,we cross$ a great road runn+ to ! nor?-we/2 hundr$s ( yaks _h rec5tly pass$--no d\bt a salt c>avan on ! way to ,tabie-tsaka4 ,!n we pass$ a circul> wall1 :]e a solit>y man came out & look$ at u1 b retir$ beh9d ! wall :5 he f\nd t we w\ld h no?+ to d ) him4 ,a f9e mani decorat$ ) horns /ood on a t]race1 & j bel[ x we halt$ = ! night by a %eet ( ice produc$ by spr+s4 ,we _h sc>cely set up ! t5ts :5 a c>avan ( sev]al hundr$ %eep1 lad5 ) salt1 came along f ! nor?-we/4 ,only two arm$ guides 7 ) x2 !y _h be5 to ,tabie-tsaka1 & 7 n[ go+ home to ,yang*ut-tanga1 tw5ty days' j\rney to ! s\?-ea/4 ,9 ! same direction #djj yaks 7 graz+1 :i* 7 said to belong to ! ,gova ( ! di/rict4 ,9 ! ev5+ we _h a visit f a travell] :o 0 go+ home to 8 t5t f>!r s\?4 ,he promis$ to sell u ?ree %eep 9 ! morn+4 ,w\ld he keep 8 ^w8 ,yes1 c]ta9ly2 he met u ) ! %eep next day z we 7 pass+ along ! we/]n %ore ( ! ,*unit-tso 7#ae1egd feet7 s\?w>ds4 ,at ! nor!rn extremity ( ! lake a w>m sulphur\s spr+ bur/ =?4 ,we 7 told t if a man dr9ks ( x he becomes ill1 b if he mixes ! wat] ) "s f an adjac5t cold spr+ he is cur$ ( any compla9t he may suff] f4 ,sick %eep & goats are dipp$ 9 ! w>m wat] & become well aga9 at once4 ,! spr+ is holy1 & a mani heap is set up ne> x4 ,! lake is slightly salt & froz54 ,two small brooks ent] x f ! m\nta9s on ! we/2 a ?ird brook1 ,lungnak-bup*u1 =m$ a l>ge %eet ( ice1 & 9 ! m\? ( its valley /ood a c\ple ( t5ts1 & _! dogs came d[n on u l a :irlw9d1 b receiv$ su* a ?ra%+ f ,takk> t !y %[$ !mselves no m t ev5+4 ,april #c4 ,we left ! s\!rn end ( ! lake beh9d u & asc5d$ a small valley lead+ up to ! l[ pass ,nima-lung-la1 ne> :i* we encamp$ 9 a b>r5 spot betwe5 granite crags4 ,an eagle-owl sat 9 a cleft & at twilight utt]$ its %rill pi]c+ cry4 ,lobsang said t ?is bird 0 ?\ght mu* ( 9 ,tibet1 because x w>ns hone/ m5 ( ?ieves & robb]s4 ,:5 ! eagle-owls sit & scream1 robb]s are c]ta9 to be 9 ! neighb\rhood4 ,on ,april #d we _h only half an h\r's m>* to ! ?re%old ( ! ,nima-lung-la 7#af1jag feet71 f :i* !re is a magnific5t view ov] ! ,trans-,himalaya--a s]ies ( d>k rocks ) black1 sn[-cr[n$ peaks4 ,betwe5 u & ! range ext5d$ a wide1 p]fectly level pla91 full ( pools1 m>%es1 & rivulets4 ,at "o ( !m sat two ,tibetans cutt+ up a yak :i* _h di$4 ,!y confirm$ ! in=mation we _h receiv$ be=e1 t we 7 n[ 9 ! di/rict ,bongba-kem>1 a day's j\rney f ,bongba-kebyang1 & t we mu/ foll[ ! riv] ,buptsang-tsangpo = sev]al days upw>ds to rea* ,saka-dzong by ! pass ,samye-la4 ,i _h /ill a v dim & indi/9ct notion ( ! geographical configuration ( ?is region4 ,0 ! range 9 front ( u to ! s\? a cont9uation ( ,ni5-*5-tang-la1 :i* ,i _h cross$ at ! ,sela-la1 ,*ang-la-,pod-la1 & ,angd5-la2 or 0 x ano!r range disconnect$ f ! =m]8 ,dur+ ! foll[+ days we %\ld obta9 an answ] to ?is "q4 ,%\ld we be successful1 & be able to complete ?is exce$+ly important m]idional trav]se ?r\gh an unkn[n "p ( ,tibet8 ,x w\ld be m ?an provok+ to be /opp$ j at ! nor!rn foot ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,camp #cgd 0 pit*$ bel[ ! op5+ ( a valley :]e !re 7 two t5ts4 ,! nomads w>n$ u aga9/ ! wat] 9 ! pools ( ! pla93 our horses w\ld lose _! hair if !y drank ( x4 ,snor+ ,kun*uk compla9$ ( too?a*e1 b 0 cur$ at once by two resolute comrades4 ,! op]ation 0 p]=m$ ) p9c]s prop]ly int5d$ = horse-%oe nails4 ,to get at ! too? bett]1 !y put a /one 9 ! pati5t's m\?4 ,d n kill me1 he %riek$ :5 ! too? jump$ out4 ,on ,april #e we travell$ altoge!r #aj miles to ! s\?4 ,! c\ntry 0 p]fectly b>r51 & ! gr\nd 0 entirely cov]$ ) r$ porphyry detritus4 ,a small spr+ surr\nd$ by grass seem$ to u q an oasis1 & !re we encamp$ ne> a %eepfold & a mani heap4 ,ano!r day's m>* & we came to ! ,buptsang-tsangpo1 ! deeply excavat$ riv]1 & foll[$ x to ! s\?4 ,! riv] is divid$ into sev]al arms1 & already conta9$ a deal ( wat]1 ?\gh = ! mo/ "p x 0 froz54 ,?is valley is ab\t #c miles broad & has a v g5tle slope4 ,! locality :]e we encamp$ aft] pass+ f\rte5 t5ts 0 call$ ,monlam-gongma 7#ae1hbj feet74 ,h5ce ! riv] 0 said to fl[ five days' j\rney to ! nor?-nor?-we/ & p\r into a l>ge lake1 call$ ! ,t>ok-tso4 ,we might h attempt$ to make an excursion 9 t direction1 b x 0 m important to complete ! m]idional l9e :ile ! c\ntry 0 /ill op5 to u4 ,two huge sn[y peaks :i* ! nomads "h1 z on ! tasam1 call$ ,lunpo-gangri1 or ! great ice m\nta91 7 said to lie to ! "r ( ! r\te we ought to foll[ to ,saka-dzong4 ,?is in=mation 0 exce$+ly puzzl+1 & ,i saw t ,lunpo-gangri ) ! summits triangulat$ by ,ryd] & ,wood c\ld n be a prolongation ( ! mighty range ,i _h cross$ by ?ree passes1 & :i*1 f>!r ea/1 be>s ! "n ,ni5-*5-tang-la4 ,aft] a va9 attempt to get rid ( our enfeebl$ yaks1 we cont9u$ up ! great riv] along its "r or ea/]n bank t]race4 ,a s\?-we/]ly /orm :i* comm5c$ "s days be=e /ill cont9u$4 ,9 ! ,am*ung c\ntry 7camp #cgf7 we _h a neighb\r call$ ,kamba ,dramdul1 :o c\ld n give mu* in=mation1 b :at he said 0 ( deep int]e/4 ,we _h /ill "s days' j\rney to ! ,samye-la--all up ! ,buptsang-tsangpo valley1 ) gangris or sn[y heights on bo? ! "r & left sides4 ,on ! pass we %\ld be q close to ! peaks ( ,lunpo-gangri4 ,i already suspect$ t ! great range we _h on our left--t is1 t[>ds ! ea/--0 a cont9uation ( ,ni5-*5-tang-la1 :ile ,lunpo-gangri 0 a q indep5d5t *a9 )\t ! lea/ connection ) ! =m]4 ,! ea/]n range increas$ 9 magnitude on ! foll[+ day's m>*1 & among its d>k ramifications rose "s r flat summits capp$ ) et]nal sn[4 ,we kept = ! mo/ "p to ! top ( ! t]race on ! "r bank1 :i* 0 #ej to #fe feet above ! riv]1 & fell /eeply to ! ev5 valley bottom :]e ! /ream me&]$4 ,"h ! valley 0 ab\t #b miles broad4 ,! ice mantle ( ! riv] became wid] & ?ick] ! high] we m\nt$1 b ! rise 0 v gradual4 ,f camp #cgg ! culm9at+ peak ( ,lunpo-gangri lay s\?1 #bc ,e4 ,e day's j\rney we accompli%$ )\t adv5tures /r5g!n$ our position4 ,! nomads mu/ ?9k3 ,if ^! m5 travel "r ?r\gh ! :ole ( ,bongba )\t be+ /opp$1 !y _c be impo/ors4 ,on ,april #aj we travell$ #h miles up ! ,buptsang-tsangpo1 & we 7 a/oni%$ to f9d s volum9\s a riv] up on ! isolat$ plateau c\ntry4 ,on its banks ducks & geese cackl$ 9 l>ge numb]s4 ,tubges %ot sev]al ( !m2 x 0 a s9 to di/urb _! dreams ( spr+ & love4 ,no human be+ 0 se5 ?is day4 ,i _h a feel+ ( repose :5 we c\ld see no black t5ts1 & = ! sake ( peace ,i w\ld readily ab/a9 f s\r milk4 ,! view to ! s\?-s\?-ea/ 0 magnific5t2 ! peaks ( ,lunpo-gangri /ood out aga9/ ! pure blue sky 9 dazzl+ :ite1 ) %ades ( light blue indicat+ ice4 ,on ! ea/ also ( our r\te appe>$ a :ole _w ( m\nta9s4 ,mo/ unexpect$ly ! summits ( ,lunpo-gangri h a mu* gr&] & m impos+ appe>ance f ! nor!rn side1 t[>ds ! plateau c\ntry1 ?an f ! s\? side1 ! valley ( ! ,brahmaputra1 mo/ probably because on ! s\!rn side !y are too ne>4 ,up 9 ! nor? we saw !m at all di/ances1 & = sev]al days we _h !m "r 9 front ( u4 ,illu/ration3 #cai1 #cbj1 #cba4 ,,! ,,summits ,,( ,,lunpo-,,gangri ,,f ,,camps #cgi1 #cha1 ,,& #chc4 ,f ,wat]-,col\rs by ! ,au?or4 ,9 ! night ( ,april #aa ! temp]ature sank to -#a4g1 & on ! prec$+ nights to #c4g1 #ac4e1 & #ag4b4 ,! cold increas$ z we m\nt$ high]4 ,we came to an expansion 9 ! valley :]e ?ree glaci] /reams unite to =m ! ,buptsang-tsangpo1 j z 9 ! case ( ! ,brahmaputra1 & also on ! nor!rn flank ( "o ( ! _w's mightie/ m\nta9 sy/ems4 ,our camp #cgi 7#af1aab feet7 0 pit*$ close to ! riv] 9 ,bupyung-r+4 ,! ea/]n headwat] comes p>tly f ! ,samye-la1 p>tly f m\nta9s adjo9+ on ! s\?-we/4 ,! middle "o desc5ds f a massive call$ ,yallak-mallak1 & ! we/]n f ,*omo-gangri2 s\?-ea/ ( ?is m\nta9 is ,lunpo-gangri1 :i* is dra9$ to ! sea1 bo? f its nor!rn & its s\!rn flank 7,illu/s4 #cai1 #cbj1 #cba74 ,bupyung-r+ is "o ( ! f9e/ & mo/ beautiful regions ,i h se5 9 ,tibet4 ,! flat wide valley1 surr\nd$ by m\nta9s ) ice & sn[1 is clo!d ) abundant grass & trav]s$ by num]\s wat]-c\rses4 ,ev]y:]e are se5 traces ( camp+-places4 ,at ! "t we pass$ ?r\gh only a few t5t villages rema9$1 b ! valley is full ( life 9 summ] :5 ! nomads come d[n f ! nor?4 ,:5 ! melt+ ( ! sn[s prop]ly sets 9 dur+ summ]1 & aft]w>ds 9 ! ra9y season1 ! ,buptsang-tsangpo swells up s trem5d\sly t ! riv] _c be cross$ = ?ree mon?s1 & communication betwe5 ! banks is int]rupt$4 ,f its s\rce to its outlet 9 ! ,t>ok-tso ! riv] is probably ne>ly #ajj miles long1 & is possibly ! l>ge/ riv] 9 ,tibet :i* does n fl[ to ! sea4 ,! only riv]s t c vie ) x are ! ,sa*u-tsangpo1 :i* fl[s into ! ,zill+-tso1 & ! ,soma-tsangpo1 :i* falls into ! ,t]i-nam-tso4 ,! ,sa*u-tsangpo 0 f> l>g] ?an ! ,buptsang :5 ,i cross$ x 9 ! ra9y season 9 #aija4 ,b ! ,buptsang is also a l>ge riv] 9 spr+1 & 9 ! ra9y season mu/ swell z mu* z ! ,sa*u4 ,! ,buptsang-tsangpo has hi!rto be5 unkn[n to ,europeans1 b we f9d ! ,t>ok-tso on ,d',anville's map1 & a riv] ent]+ ! lake f ! s\?1 :i* no d\bt is id5tical ) ! ,buptsang-tsangpo4 ,! ,jesuits :o resid$ 9 ,pek9 two hundr$ ye>s ago1 & 7 ord]$ by ! ,emp]or ,kang ,hi to compile a map ( ! :ole ,*9ese ,empire1 procur$ in=mation ev5 ab\t ?is remote region f ,*9ese & ,tibetan s\rces4 ,dur+ ! pa/ days our two yaks _h become s we>i$ & footsore t we _h to get rid ( !m at any price4 ,we !re=e /ay$ a day 9 ,bupyung & b>t]$ !m = n9e %eep1 :i* took ov] ! loads ( ! yaks4 ,n[ we _h aga9 ?irty-"o %eep & "s goats4 ,on ! #ac? we came to ! foot ( ! m\nta9 :]e comm5c$ ! actual /eep asc5t to ! pass itself4 ,"h 7 f\r t5ts inhabit$ exclusively by wom5 & *ildr54 ,! m5 _h gone a c\ple ( days be=e to ,gova ,tsept5's t5t4 ,x is incumb5t on ?is *ief to collect a c]ta9 numb] ( m5 & yaks1 :i* = ab\t ?ree mon?s are po/$ on ! tasam ready to transport goods on behalf ( ! ,deva%ung )\t comp5sation4 ,?is is a k9d ( corve :i* is exact$ n only all along ! road betwe5 ,lhasa & ,ladak1 b on all o!r great high-roads 9 ,tibet4 ,naturally ?is injudici\s sy/em is a great annoyance to ! nomads1 :o h to leave _! flocks 9 ! meantime to ! c>e ( wom5 & *ildr54 ,if any "o wi%es to escape ?is compulsory s]vice he mu/ supply a sub/itute1 pay him1 & furni% him ) yaks & provisions4 ,! ye> be=e1 :5 we travell$ ) hir$ horses f ,%igatse1 ! poor nomads s]v$ u1 b we always paid !m hon\rably & gave !m h&some gratuities z well4 ,aft] a night temp]ature ( -#j4h we rode up to ! pass on ! #ad?1 ov] & betwe5 hills & across ! brook :i* br+s its tribute f ! ,samye-la to ! ,buptsang-tsangpo4 ,solid rock c\ld n be f\nd1 b all ! detritus & b\ld]s 7 ( grey granite2 seldom 0 a piece ( porphyry notic$4 ,! usual obs]vations 7 made on ! pass1 & ! boil+-po9t !rmomet] 0 read (f4 ,! view ( ,lunpo-gangri 0 gr&] ?an ev]1 n[ t its peaks 7 q ne>4 ,! di/9ctly m>k$ valley ( ! ,buptsang-tsangpo disappe>$ 9 ! di/ance to ! nor?-nor?-we/1 :ile to ! s\?-ea/ no?+ c\ld be se5 b a flat saddle1 :5ce ,i conclud$ t we 7 n yet on ! actual wat]-p>t+ pass4 ,we _h n foll[$ ! track ( ! c>avan f>1 be=e we saw a brook com+ f ! s\?-ea/1 :i* also belong$ to ! ,buptsang-tsangpo4 ,on its bank1 :]e we also halt$1 0 encamp$ a c>avan ( #h m5 & #cej yaks1 :i* 0 c>ry+ salt to ,saka-dzong1 six days' m>* f>!r4 ,^! m5 c\ld n und]/& :y we1 m]*ants f ,ladak1 *ose su* a way1 & ask$ h[ we f\nd x out4 ,!y 7 treat$ to ! usual /ory ab\t ! wool-trade 9 summ]1 & !y regrett$ t !y c\ld n s]ve u ) _! yaks1 z !y 7 call$ out = ,gov]nm5t transport on ! great high-roads4 ,n[ we wond]$ :e!r !y w\ld let ! ,gov]nor ( ,saka-dzong "k t !y _h met ) a p>ty ( ,ladakis on byways1 & if ?is news w\ld injure u4 ,p]haps1 aft] all1 x w\ld be be/ to avoid ,saka-dzong altoge!r4 ,on ,april #ae x 0 our *ief desire to get 9 advance ( ! yak c>avan4 ,be=e !y _h begun to load up _! animals ,i />t$ (f ) ! %eep1 & came 9 good "t to ! summit ( ! ,samye-la ) its /ream]-deck$ poles4 ,?\gh we 7 all ! way 9 sight ( ! yak-m5's camp1 ,i mu/1 at any co/1 det]m9e ! height ( ! pass1 & ! di/ance 0 s great t !y c\ld n see :at we 7 do+4 ,aft] boil+ ! !rmomet]1 :5ce we obta9$ a height ( #ah1acc feet1 ,i also drew a panorama4 ,to ! s\? & s\?-ea/ 0 a _w ( m\nta9s belong+ to ! ,lunpo-gangri range1 :i* lay to ! s\?1 & to ,ni5-*5-tang-la on ! nor?4 ,we 7 !re=e /&+ on ! actual wat]%$ betwe5 two gigantic ranges1 :i* are bo? memb]s ( ! ,trans-,himalayan family4 ,& ?is pass1 ! ,samye-la1 occupies ! highe/ & mo/ important rank f a hydrographic & orographical po9t ( view t any pass 9 ,asia c lay claim to1 = x is a divide betwe5 ! isolat$ dra9age area ( ! plateau on ! nor? & ! b\ndless ocean1 on ! s\?4 ,x ranks1 !n1 ) ! ,sela-la1 ,*ang-la-,pod-la1 & ,angd5-la1 & is mu* m important ?an ! ,tseti-la*5-la1 :i* is only a wat]%$ betwe5 ! ,sutlej & ! ,indus1 & ?an ! ,jukti-la1 :i* p>ts ! wat]s betwe5 ! two arms ( ! ,indus4 ,at ! ,samye-la ,i atta9$ my *ief desire1 to cross ! ,trans-,himalaya betwe5 ! ,tseti-la*5-la & ! ,ang-d5-la1 & ga9 ano!r po9t on ! imm5se b\nd>y l9e on ! nor? ( ! bas9s ( ! great ,indian riv]s1 & ,i succe$$ 9 prov+ ! unbrok5 cont9uance ( ! ,trans-,himalaya = #aah miles we/ ( ,angd5-la4 ,a mo/ extraord9>ily int]e/+ discov]y also 0 t ! ,angd5-la & ! ,samye-la1 ?\gh ( exactly ! same value z wat]%$s1 d n lie on ! same *a94 ,! ,angd5-la is situat$ on ! we/]n prolongation ( ! *a9 :i* /&s on ! s\!rn %ore ( ,t5gri-nor & is kn[n by ! "n ( ,ni5-*5-tang-la1 b ! ,samye-la lies 9 a longitud9al valley betwe5 ?is *a9 & ,lunpo-gangri4 ,accord+ly1 ,i c\ld /rike out once & = all ! cont9u\s m\nta9 range :i* ,hodgson & ,saund]s con/ruct$ at _! writ+-table1 & repres5t$ z runn+ nor? ( ! upp] ,brahmaputra4 ,"h also ,i consid]$ :at "n ,i %\ld give to ! colossal m\nta9 sy/em :i* runs 9 ! nor? p>allel to ! ,himalayas4 ,! "n ,lunpo-gangri _h at lea/ z mu* claim z ,ni5-*5-tang-la1 b bo? 7 unsuitable1 z !y only d5ot$ c]ta9 ranges 9 a :ole sy/em1 & !re=e _h only local significance4 ,!n x came to me l a fla%--,trans-,himalaya is ! "n :i* ,i w atta* to ?is gigantic m\nta9 sy/em4 ,:ile ,i sat & pond]$ ov] ! great idea :i* _h come to me ?is day )\t any m]it ( my own1 ,i 0 recall$ to ! bus9ess ( ! mom5t by ,lobsang1 :o in=m$ me t ! yaks 7 mov+ 9 a black l9e up to ! pass4 ,!n we got up & w5t on foot d[n ! slopes be/rewn ) tr\blesome rubbi% & granite b\ld]s4 ,soon trickl+ rivulets collect$ into a small brook4 ,i reg>d$ ) pleasure ?is little /ream leap+ among ! /ones1 & li/5$ to its purl+ song4 ,x 0 ! old melody1 & we _h rec5tly he>d x f ! brooks ( ! ,buptsang-tsangpo4 ,& yet ,i seem$ to he> an und]tone ( ano!r k9d1 a s\nd 9 ! wat] :i* sugge/$ a new aim4 ,! ,buptsang-tsangpo is doom$ to f9al annihilation 9 ! ,t>ok-tso & ,tabie-tsaka1 :]e ! wat] is evaporat$ & disp]s$ to ! f\r w9ds ( heav54 ,b ! brook we n[ foll[$ deb\*es into ! ,*aktak-tsangpo & ,brahmaputra1 & its de/9y is ! ,indian ,ocean1 ov] :i* runs ! way to my home4 ,we _h j set up our t5ts be=e ! yaks came tramp+ up 9 close ord]1 foll[$ by _! :i/l+ & s++ driv]s4 ,!y w5t r\nd1 n to come too ne> u4 ,7 !y afraid ( u or 7 !y suspici\s8 ,7 !y a cl\d1 no l>g] ?an a man's h&1 f :i*1 9 due "t1 a de/ructive tornado 0 to bur/ ov] our little b&1 :i* n[ = ! second "t cross$ ! =bidd5 l& )\t leave8 ,,*apt] ,,lxvi ,,9 ,,! ,,robb]s' ,,p>adise ,9 =m] times ! glaci] tongues ( ,lunpo-gangri ran d[n into ! valley1 & traces ( !m 7 v conspicu\s z we desc5d$ to l[] c\ntry on ,april #af4 ,! valley is q full ( old mora9es1 consi/+ exclusively ( granite1 & "s ( !m are sup]ficially conceal$ "u f9e matt] & moss4 ,we pass$ ! l>ge yak c>avan aga91 :i* 0 encamp+ aft] a v %ort m>*4 ,evid5tly ! m5 int5d$ to /ay ov] ! next day1 = ! loads 7 tak5 (f ! yaks & pil$ up4 ,:5 !y mean to set out aga9 ! next day !y leave ! loads on ! yaks1 = !y ?9k x too mu* tr\ble to load & unload #cej yaks = a s+le night4 ,!y might /ay = u z long z !y lik$2 we %\ld get 9 advance & pass by ,saka-dzong be=e we 7 d5\nc$4 ,b no1 x w\ld be wis] to avoid ,saka-dzong altoge!r2 n to escape ! sight ( ,muham$ ,isa's grave1 b n to ne$lessly expose ourselves to suspicion4 ,x 0 p]fectly evid5t t ! au?orities w\ld wond] :y a small p>ty ( ,ladakis w5t along byways in/ead ( foll[+ ! great tasam1 & !y w\ld hold an inquiry ov] u4 ,illu/ration3 #cbb4 ,,wre/l+4 #cbc4 ,,two ,,guides4 #cbd4 ,,boy ,,) ,,hat4 #cbe4 ,,%eph]d ,,boy4 7,,inhabitants ,,( ,,! ,,prov9ce ,,( ,,bongba47 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,aft] ! mora9es came to an end we trav]s$ a m op5 expansion ( ! valley1 ) luxuriant grass & millions ( dete/able m\se-holes4 ,we 7 "r glad :5 ,takk> p9*$ ! necks ( "o or two ( ^! obnoxi\s rod5ts4 ,tubges suppli$ me ) p>tridges1 & "o ( our goats yield$ me a drop ( milk4 ,f camp #chc ,lunpo-gangri's summits are se5 =e%ort5$1 & "o ( !m is z small z an umbrella4 ,sev]al peaks are se5 to ! ea/-s\?-ea/1 ! cont9uation ( ! range1 & x is n difficult to inf] t ,*omo-u*ong1 ! isolat$ m\nta9 beside ! tasam1 lies 9 ! ea/]n prolongation ( ,lunpo-gangri4 ,i took be>+s ( ! high] summits 9 ! neighb\rhood f e camp1 & %all h]eaft] make kn[n ! results4 ,! o!r m5 make ! ,snor]'s life mis]able4 ,at eight o'clock he crawls into 8 lair beside ! %eep1 & imm$iately beg9s 8 wood-saw+4 ,"s "o yells at him1 & he wakes up & makes "s witty rem>k1 :i* makes ! m5 laugh1 & he nev] loses 8 temp]4 ,9 two m9utes he is asleep aga9 & saw+ z h>d z ev]1 & is r\s$ by ano!r %\t4 ,only :5 ! o!rs h fall5 asleep is he left 9 peace1 & c saw z h>d z he likes4 ,little ,puppy behaves spl5didly1 is lively1 playful1 & affectionate4 ,at night he sleeps on ! rugs at my feet & helps ,takk> to keep wat*4 ,!y are my companions1 & x w be h>d to "p f !m4 ,april #ag4 #j4g4 ,h[ long ?is w9t] has be56 ,n[ ,lobsang has come to ! conclusion t ! yak driv]s w n d5\nce u1 = fe> le/ !y %\ld be call$ to acc\nt = n spy+ ^u u bett]4 ,we cont9ue our way d[n ! valley4 ,h[ delightful only to g = "s days to l[] c\ntry4 ,9 "s places we see summ] camp+-gr\nds2 n[ ! c\ntry is desolate & des]t$4 ,! riv] c>ries d[n ab\t #gj cubic feet ( cle> wat] p] second2 x has op5 wat] only 9 ! middle1 & else:]e is cov]$ ) m>g9s ( ice #b feet ?ick1 & icicles hang f _! edges4 ,on ! banks1 field-mice d>t ab\t betwe5 _! holes4 ,! valley contracts & ! riv] (t5 skirts /eep cliffs ( s*i/4 ,mo/ ( ! tribut>ies1 & ! l>ge/ ( !m1 come f ! *a9 :i* is ! imm$iate cont9uation ( ,ni5-*5-tang-la4 ,! ice becomes ?ick] ! m ! valley contracts & ! long] x is 9 %ad[4 ,we (t5 cross x f "o bank to ! o!r1 :]e x =ms a bridge4 ,/ags' horns are set up on a mani heap2 :]e d !y come f8 ,?is valley runs betwe5 ! two ranges l ! ,buptsang-tsangpo4 ,on ?is day we nev] see a man or a t5t4 ,9 ! ev5+ a night owl aga9 sat scree*+ above ! camp1 & ! ,ladakis 7 conv9c$ t x meant to w>n u aga9/ robb]s4 ,if ^! knew t a ,european ) ,european weapons 0 9 ! c>avan !y w\ld n attack x2 b we 7 only ,ladakis1 & ! ,tibetans despise ,ladakis & look ^u !m z c[>ds4 ,on ! #ah? we travell$ s\?w>ds to ! place 7#ae1djg feet7 :]e our valley ent]s ! ,rukyok valley1 runn+ d[n f ! we/-nor?-we/1 at ! bottom ( :i* "s ( ! ,lunpo-gangri summits 7 aga9 visible4 ,/ill no m5 7 to be se51 only num]\s summ] camp+-places4 ,two horsem5 rode pa/ our camp on ! o!r1 "r1 side ( ! valley4 ,:at did !y want8 ,7 !y spies8 ,we _h e reason to suspect a spy 9 e human be+4 ,no2 !y 7 kiang hunt]s f ,g]tse1 :o _h left _! home & 7 seek+ new dwell+s 9 ano!r prov9ce1 because ( "s unpleasantness ) ! ,g]tse ,pun1 ! pot5tate :om we 7 c>efully mak+ away f4 ,!y in=m$ u t we 7 a day's j\rney f ,pasa-guk1 :]e ,i _h encamp$ ! ye> be=e1 & ?ree %ort m>*es f ,saka-dzong4 ,x 0 haz>d\s to pass s ne> a gov]nor's resid5ce4 ,abdul ,k]im b\ght "o ( ! rid]s' horses = #ajj rupees4 ,?is day ,i put on = ! fir/ "t a new ,ladaki co/ume4 ,! o!r 0 too w>m1 &1 be+ r$1 0 conspicu\s among ! o!rs4 ,! new coat 0 made ( worn1 tatt]$ sackclo?1 & 0 /a9$ ) a%es & soot4 ,9 ?is ,i look$ j l ! o!r m54 ,n[ ,i pa9t$ my face regul>ly e day1 & he mu/ be a v sm>t fell[ :o c\ld f9d out t ,i 0 n a g5u9e ,ladaki4 ,we _h hi!rto got on rem>kably well1 & _h only a day's j\rney to a place :]e ,i _h be5 ! ye> be=e4 ,b ! n]v\s t5sion increas$ m & m1 & ,i wond]$ e morn+ :at surprises ! new day _h 9 /ore = u4 ,illu/ration3 #cbf4 ,,sonam ,,ngurbu1 ,,*ief ,,( ,,! ,,*ok*u ,,prov9ce4 #cbg4 ,,dor*e ,,tsu51 ,,gov]nor ,,( ,,! ,,saka ,,prov9ce4 #cbh4 ,,man ,,) ,a ,,s+ul> ,,cap1 ,,9 ,,sonam ,,ngurbu',s ,,escort4 #cbi4 ,,tagla ,,ts]+1 ,,! ,,*ief ,,:o ,,refus$ ,,to ,,let ,,me ,,g ,,to ,,! ,,dangra-,,yum-,,tso4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,april #ai4 ,z we 7 />t+1 two m5 pass$ on foot1 driv+ be=e !m #bjj %eep lad5 ) salt4 ,our way 0 ! same z !irs & we _h to pass !m4 ,:ile ,i drove our own %eep d[n ! road1 ,abdul ,k]im /opp$ & talk$ ) ! m51 to draw (f _! att5tion2 b we c\ld see t !y 7 int]e/$ 9 our /range p>ty1 & look$ closely at u4 ,i limp$1 ?9k+ t ! ,tibetans _h nev] se5 a lame ,european1 if !y _h se5 any ,european at all4 ,b ! p _h se5 me 9 ,pasa-guk & ,saka-dzong ! ye> be=e1 & !n ,i did n halt4 ,i _h come (f well f our tr\blesome neighb\rs & also pa/ ! l>ge yak c>avan1 :i* a c\ple ( days ago _h turn$ (f ano!r way b _h n[ come into ours aga94 ,we met a l>ge %eep c>avan ) a m\nt$ p>ty2 a woman 0 said to be ! wife ( ! ,gova ( ,rukyok4 ,! p we _h j met 7 n s dang]\s z ^? t foll[$4 ,we left ! ,rukyok riv] f>!r & f>!r to ! "r1 & directly to ! s\? appe>$ q close ! l(ty summit :i* rises above ,pasa-guk4 ,we _h left ! salt-lad5 %eep & ! yaks beh9d u1 & we came at l5g? to ! bank ( our old fri5d ! ,*aktak-tsangpo1 :i* 0 consid]ably small] ?an at ! end ( ,may & beg9n+ ( ,june ! ye> be=e4 ,"h we left ! high-road to ! s\?1 & m>*$ nor?w>ds along ! ,*aktak-tsangpo's "r1 or we/]n bank1 :]e we soon encamp$ on a mead[ 7#ae1bjc feet74 ,:5 ,abdul ,k]im came back he 0 v solemn4 ,he _h _h great difficulty 9 answ]+ que/ions :y we foll[$ a byway along ! ,*aktak-tsangpo in/ead ( tak+ ! highway to ,saka-dzong z all o!r travell]s did4 ,he _h repli$ t we 7 s5t to f9d out h[ mu* %eep's wool w\ld be = sale 9 ! c\ntry next summ]4 ,!n ! m5 ( ! salt c>avan _h said3 ,y _c be afraid ( robb]s2 !y frequ5t ! m\nta9s up "h4 ,are y well arm$8 ,yes1 we h two guns & "s revolv]s4 ,y w want !m4 ,we see t y are peaceful p1 s we w>n y4 ,six days ago a robb] b&1 eighte5 m5 /rong1 ea* ) 8 horse & gun1 attack$ a t5t village "h 9 ! neighb\rhood4 ,!y pillag$ #c t5ts1 took #djj %eep & ab\t #bjj yaks1 & made (f by ! road y int5d to foll[4 ,m5 7 collect$ & s5t aft] !m1 b two 7 kill$ & ! o!rs ran away4 ,no "o kn[s :]e ! b& is n[4 ,if y value y\r lives1 keep a %>p wat* at night4 ,if !y attack y1 let !m plund] y2 y are only ?irte51 & _c def5d y\rselves4 ,?is 0 :y ,abdul ,k]im look$ s anxi\s1 & x 0 n to be wond]$ at4 ,n[ we also ran ! risk ( a night attack1 z if x 7 n try+ en\gh to travel 9 disguise by byways ?r\gh ! =bidd5 l&4 ,z long z !re 0 daylight ! animals 7 all[$ to w&] ab\t & graze1 b at dusk !y 7 driv5 up ne> to ! t5ts4 ,9 ! ev5+ ! m5 c\ld talk ( no?+ b robb]s4 ,lobsang1 :o 0 a ,tibetan himself1 took ! matt] quietly4 ,he said t !re 7 organiz$ b&s ( z _m z a hundr$ m5 ) a *ief at _! head1 :o ord]$ :]e raids %\ld be made4 ,b at ?is season ( ! ye> !y sat r\nd _! fires & tri$ to look innoc5t4 ,9 8 op9ion ! air mu/ be w>m] be=e !y w\ld move4 ,if a robb] 0 caught 9 ! neighb\rhood ( ,g>tok1 8 head & "o arm mu/ be s5t z a pro( to ,lhasa1 he add$4 ,9 ! pr9cipal t[ns puni%m5t is v sev]e4 ,= !ft an eye is tak5 out & a h& cut (f4 ,a ,gova or o!r magi/rate :o cat*es a robb] receives a rew>d or promotion1 b "o :o neglects 8 duty is puni%$4 ,we he>d t ! di/rict ne> ,g$do by ! upp] ,raga-tsangpo is notori\s z a regul> ne/ ( robb]s1 & is visit$ by pr(essional freeboot]s f ,nak*u4 ,9 ! twilight ! ,mohamm$ans among my ,ladakis sang ! same melodi\s hymn ,i _h fir/ he>d at ,kizil-unkur4 ,allahu ekb] e*o$ among ! rocky cliffs2 & x is v effective 9 protect+ true believ]s aga9/ ! wiles ( ! hea!n4 ,!y _h all at once become deeply religi\s aga9 9 ! robb]s' p>adise4 ,allahu ekb]1 ,god is great4 ,! night pass$ peacefully1 & e>ly ! next morn+ x 0 report$ t five horsem5 7 approa*+ our t5ts f ! nor?4 ,! field-glass r$uc$ !m to two m51 a woman1 & "s yaks4 ,!y made a circuit z ?\gh !y 7 afraid ( u1 b ,abdul ,k]im hail$ !m to get in=mation ab\t ! road4 ,!n we m>*$ on directly ea/w>ds along ! nor!rn bank ( ! ,*aktak-tsangpo4 ,! asc5t 0 v gradual1 ! valley fairly broad & ) abundant pa/ure4 ,no t5t 0 se51 b summ] camps 7 num]\s4 ,a cairn m>ks ! place :]e ! ,*aktak-tsangpo1 com+ f ! nor?1 #aj ,w41 unites ) its tribut>y ! ,gebuk-*u f ! ea/4 ,to ! nor?-nor?-ea/ rise two sn[y peaks ( m$ium height ) small glaci]s4 ,x 0 evid5t t ! ,*aktak-tsangpo fl[s f ! c\ntry to ! nor? ( !m1 = ! deeply excavat$ transv]se valley ( ! riv] c\ld be cle>ly trac$4 ,! ma9 riv] may c>ry d[n ab\t #bej cubic feet 9 a second1 & ! afflu5t ab\t #gj4 ,9 ?is di/rict ! riv] is call$ ,kam*ung-*u2 ! "n ,*aktak-tsangpo 7,*>ta-tsangpo1 z x is incorrectly call$ by ,na9 ,s+7 is n appli$ to x above ,pasa-guk4 ,we encamp$ 9 ! angle betwe5 ! two riv]s ne> a mead[ :]e ?ree horses 7 fe$+4 ,_! own]s1 :o 7 biv\ack+ beh9d a projection ne> at h&1 7 f ,rukyok & _h lo/ _m ( _! %eep 9 w9t] f disease1 & _h be5 to a w>m spr+ to dip & save ! rema9d]4 ,we 7 "h ab\t due nor? ( ,saka-dzong & ab\t two days' j\rney f x4 ,b betwe5 u & ! ,gov]nor's resid5ce rose a ridge :i* is a l9k 9 ! *a9 ( ,lunpo-gangri4 ,9 ! ev5+ & at night our wat*m5 fir$1 z usual1 "s revolv] %ots1 to in=m any *ance robb]s t we 7 on our gu>d4 ,april #ba4 ,z ! t5ts 7 be+ tak5 d[n1 our neighb\rs w5t by ) #bjj %eep4 ,i turn$ my back to !m & busi$ myself ) load+ a mule4 ,!n ,i travell$ ) ! %eep1 = !re 7 sev]al m t5ts f>!r up1 & ,i c\ld n ride till we came to an un9habit$ "p ( ! valley4 ,sev]al side valleys op5$ on ! left1 & at _! ends c\ld sometimes be se5 a "p ( ! ma9 cre/4 ,we "k absolutely no?+ ( ! c\ntry to ! nor? ( x1 b t x _c be ! wat]%$ betwe5 ! plateau & ! sea is evid5t1 & 0 %[n by ! ,kam*ung transv]se valley4 ,aft] cross+ ! riv] twice ov] bridges ( por\s ice we encamp$ ne> a %eepfold :]e dry dung 0 pl5tiful4 ,! la/ nomads _h told u t next day we %\ld come to a l>ge t5t1 ! prop]ty ( an influ5tial old man nam$ ,kamba ,ts5am1 :o own$ #ajjj yaks & #ejjj %eep4 ,he w\ld evid5tly be our next difficulty1 & if we slipp$ pa/ him ! c\ntry w\ld be op5 to u z f> z ,raga-tasam4 ,we are satisfi$ :51 z on ?is day1 we h aga9 ga9$ ne>ly #i miles )\t be+ int]f]$ )2 b h[ %all we f>e to-morr[8--?is is ! /&+ "q we ask ourselves e ev5+4 ,x is c]ta9ly an advantage to travel along out-(-!-way pa?s :]e we escape notice1 b if any %>p gova or gov]nor he>s u spok5 (1 he _c help be+ suspici\s ( our /range proce$+s1 & in/itute a close inquiry4 ,n[ ! salt c>avan :i* we pass$ has already arriv$ at ,saka-dzong2 we are1 inde$1 to ! ea/ ( t place1 b we travel s sl[ly t we c nev] escape pursuit4 ,our excitem5t gr[s daily4 ,i am tir$ & we>y ( ?is self-impos$ conf9em5t1 & long = x to come to an end4 ,:at %all we d !n8 ,t ,i "k n4 ,we h p5etrat$ s f> t a crisis mu/ come4 ,i h manag$ to travel ?r\gh ,bongba1 b my plans = ! imm$iate future are v indef9ite & dep5d on circum/ances4 ,we w get on z f> z we c4 ,april #bb 0 a day :5 we knew t ! def9ite crisis 0 com+ v mu* ne>]4 ,abdul ,k]im1 ,kun*uk1 & ,gaff> set out fir/ to pay a visit to ,kamba ,ts5am & keep 8 att5tion rivet$ on ! sale ( food & horses4 ,we foll[$ aft]1 & cross$ ! riv] twice on crack+ bridges ( ice1 kept along ! nor!rn bank1 & pass$ a side valley1 at ! m\? ( :i* /ood ?ree t5ts1 :]e our m5 7 9 ! mid/ ( a gr\p ( ,tibetans :o 7 %[+ _! horses4 ,gulam _h w>n$ me 9 "t1 s ,i dism\nt$ & w5t & look$ aft] our la/ mules4 ,z soon z we 7 conceal$ by a bank t]race ,i c\ld ride aga94 ,! pleasure did n la/ long1 = at ! next side valley on ! nor? ,i _h to dism\nt aga9 be=e ano!r t5t1 :]e a pack ( savage dogs 7 enc\nt]$ by ,takk> & ,little ,puppy1 :o1 save ! m>k1 w\ld help to def5d u1 b receiv$ a nip 9 ! neck & _h to be rescu$4 ,"h we lo/ ,kutus & ,tubges1 :o rema9$ at ! t5t1 :ile our dim9i%$ p>ty cont9u$ on its way ea/w>ds4 ,at a spur on ! nor!rn side ( ! valley a c\ple ( elegant mani heaps 7 erect$1 & by "o ( !m a /ream] pole 0 set up4 ,x _h sn[$ ?ickly ev] s9ce eight o'clock1 b ! valley 0 s n>r[ t we c\ld n pass all ! t5ts unse54 ,j at ! project+ po9t a l>ge valley ran 9 f ! nor?3 we only guess$ at x1 = ev]y?+ 0 hidd5 9 ! sn[/orm4 ,gulam w5t a little way ahead & gave me ! sign to dism\nt4 ,imm$iately 9 front ( ! po9t /ood f\r t5ts & a small /one cab91 :]e a man /ood wat*+ u1 & also a *ief's t5t ( su* huge dim5sions t ,i nev] saw its l2 x 0 z l>ge z a h\se4 ,"h we left ,lobsang & ,abdul ,rasak1 & w5t on ea/w>ds ) a mu* dim9i%$ p>ty4 ,! *ief volume ( ! ,gebuk-*u comes f ! nor!rn valley2 9 our valley1 :i* we knew l$ to ! ,gebuk-la1 only a brook 0 left4 ,we set up our t5ts on ! t]race at ! m\? ( a nor!rn side valley4 ,all ! c\ntry 0 :ite1 & n a %ad[ c\ld be se5 ( ! surr\nd+s4 ,our ?ree t5ts /ood z usual close toge!r1 m9e ) its op5+ up ! valley1 t is1 ea/w>ds4 ,aft] a :ile ! m5 left beh9d came up & gave _! reports 9 turn4 ,!y _h b\ght provisions = two days1 & _h le>n$ t ! di/rict 0 call$ ,gebuk-yung4 ,! next day we %\ld g ov] ! ,gebuk-la & encamp at ! foot ( ! ,k9*5-la1 f ! top ( :i* we %\ld see ,raga-tasam ! foll[+ day4 ,( c\rse x 0 risky = ?ree p>ties ( our m5 to visit ?ree t5ts ne> toge!r1 = ! ,tibetans always ask$ ab\t ! r\tes we _h foll[$ & our plans1 & our m5 might 9 _! ha/e give discordant answ]s4 ,9 ! l>ge t5t ,lobsang _h be5 cross-exam9$1 & _h answ]$ t we came f ! ,g]tse ,pun1 :o _h advis$ u to take ?is byroad because we %\ld rea* ,raga-tasam two days soon] ?an if we w5t ?r\gh ,saka-dzong4 ,q true1 ! ,tibetans answ]$1 b also w>n$ u aga9/ robb]s1 = ?irte5 ,ladakis w\ld be b a m\?ful = an ord9>y robb] b&1 & ! c\ntry 0 v unsafe4 ,x is well = y t y h good weapons1 !y said4 ,la/ly1 ,abdul ,k]im turn$ up ) 8 pur*ases4 ,he _h le>n$ t all ! t5ts we _h se5 9 ! day belong$ to ,kamba ,ts5am1 :o liv$ himself 9 ! l>ge/1 b he happ5$ to be 9 ,saka-dzong1 :]e an assembly _h be5 conv5$ 9 anticipation ( an imp5d+ visit f a high ,*9ese (ficial1 & ! "q :at pres5t %\ld be made to him _h to be decid$4 ,kamba ,ts5am own$ ?irty-five horses1 :i* 7 graz+ beyond ,gebuk-la1 & if ! ri* nomad return$ 9 ! ev5+ we %\ld c]ta9ly be able to buy "s f him4 ,y say1 decl>$ an eld]ly man 9 ,kamba ,ts5am's s]vice1 t y are a tsongpun 7m]*ant7 f ,ladak4 ,:y !n d y travel by ?is dang]\s side r\te8 ,"h y c drive no trade4 ,h[ h y f\nd ! way8 ,:y h y travell$ 9 w9t]8 ,:y d y ask ! names ( ! valleys8 ,i h to write d[n all ! names1 he answ]$1 t we may f9d ! way aga9 9 summ]1 = ,i am commission$ to make l>ge pur*ases ( wool4 ,t is well1 y %all h sev]al hundr$ bales ( %eep's wool f u4 ,i w give y a guide 9 ! morn+2 y w pay him a rupee = two days4 ,)\t him y _c f9d y\r way ov] ! ,gebuk-la1 especially :5 ! gr\nd is cov]$ ) sn[4 ,illu/ration3 #ccj4 ,,travell+ ,,ladaki ,,m]*ant ,,9 ,,we/ ,,tibet4 #cca4 ,,oang ,,gye1 ,,son ,,( ,,! ,,gov]nor ,,( ,,saka4 #ccb4 ,,pan*or1 ,,! ,,yak-,,slay]1 ,,my ,,guide ,,on ,,! ,,j\rney ,,to ,,! ,,t]i-,,nam-,,tso4 #ccc4 ,,woman ,,( ,,yumba-,,mats54 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,abdul ,k]im _h ?ank$ him = 8 k9dness & !n _h come to look = u4 ,we 7 sitt+ & delib]at+ :5 two rid]s arm$ ) guns came up to our t5ts4 ,!y 7 close ^u u :5 !y appe>$ out ( ! sn[/orm4 ,we j manag$ to close my t5t & fa/5 up ,takk> be=e ! entrance4 ,! eld] man 0 ,abdul ,k]im's fri5d f ! l>ge t5t1 ! o!r ! y\? :o 0 (f]$ to u z a guide4 ,!y ti$ up _! horses & w5t non*alantly into ,abdul ,k]im's t5t4 ,"h !y sat & gossip$ = an h\r1 & (f]$ a l>ge h&some :ite horse = sale at ! price ( #abg rupees4 ,abdul ,k]im b\ght x1 :]eupon !y ask$ h[ mu* money he _h ) him1 & :e!r he 0 n afraid ( be+ attack$4 ,aft]w>ds !y w5t ab\t ! t5ts & look$ ar\nd1 & ,i drew a brea? ( relief :5 !y at la/ vani%$ 9 ! sn[ ) ! o!r horse4 ,n[ we consid]$ ! situation4 ,to refuse ! guide w\ld seem extremely suspici\s1 = ! sn[ already lay a foot deep1 & ! pa?--all we _h to dep5d on--0 cov]$ up4 ,b to h a /rang]1 a spy1 9 ! c>avan = two days & a night 0 /ill m dang]\s4 ,:5 ,kutus & ,s$ik w5t back a little lat] to ! l>ge t5t to fet* a b[l ( s\r milk1 !y 7 told to say t our tsongpun did n want a guide1 = we %\ld rema9 quiet a day1 ei!r "h or at ! next camp4 ,y\r tsongpun speaks ) two tongues1 he does n "k :at he wants1 ! m5 answ]$4 ,we left ?is dang]\s place on ,april #bc be=e ! sun 0 up1 & ,i w5t fir/ ) ! %eep 9 case our neighb\rs paid a morn+ visit4 ,! wea!r cle>$ & ! sun came out1 & !n ! sn[ quickly evaporat$4 ,f>!r up all ! valley floor 0 cov]$ ) a cont9u\s %eet ( ice4 ,9 front ( u 0 se5 ! pass ,gebuk-la4 ,"h a little old man 0 foll[+ t5 m>es4 ,he pret5d$ n to see u1 b he 0 soon ov]tak5 by ,abdul ,k]im & ,kun*uk1 :o kept him company mo/ ( ! day4 ,) ,lobsang ,i re/$ half an h\r on ! pass1 at a height ( #af1igh feet4 ,to ! ea/ & s\?-ea/ ( u lay an entanglem5t ( m\nta9s & valleys1 & )\t ! horse-t5d] we _h s =tunately f\nd x w\ld h be5 q impossible to f9d our way ov] ! succession ( small saddles :i* foll[$4 ,to ! s\?-s\?-ea/ ! sn[y massive ( ,*omo-u*ong rose 9 radiant sun%9e2 to ! nor? 0 a huge cre/1 :i* ,i1 l ,ryd]1 took = ! ma9 range ( ! ,trans-,himalaya & ! wat]%$1 b ?is turn$ out aft]w>ds to be a mi/ake4 ,! horse-driv] took u up a second>y saddle1 at ! ea/]n foot ( :i* runs a deeply erod$ valley1 :i*1 com+ f ! nor?1 #aj ,e41 is ! upp] section ( ! valley we foll[$ la/ ye>1 & :i* runs d[n to ,basang1 :]e ,i saw ,muham$ ,isa = ! la/ "t among ! numb] ( ! liv+4 ,"h 0 ! driv]'s t5t1 & to escape 8 company dur+ ! night we cont9u$ our m>* aft] ! /rang] _h giv5 u in/ructions ab\t ! way4 ,our camp #cij 0 situat$ 9 ! m\? ( a small valley on ! asc5t to ! ,k9*5-la1 :]e we 7 ov]:elm$ 9 a t]ribly d5se & viol5t sn[/orm4 ,! guide1 :o _h s =tunately appe>$ at ! "r mom5t1 _h said 9 ! pres5ce ( our m5 t he 0 ,kamba ,ts5am's bro!r & a great yak-slay]4 ,! ye> be=e he _h se5 9 ,saka-dzong a ,european ^: c>avan lead]1 a big /rong fell[1 _h inspir$ respect :]ev] he %[$ himself4 ,b he _h di$ sudd5ly 9 ,saka1 & 8 comrades _h digg$ a long hole 9 ! gr\nd :]e !y _h laid him4 ,he ?\ght x /range t ,ladakis1 :o 7 ( ! same fai? z ! ,tibetans1 w\ld travel ) & s]ve ! hat$ ,europeans4 ,= ! future we det]m9$ to obs]ve yet great] caution4 ,two or ?ree ,ladakis %\ld always we> d>k eye-glasses1 s t m9e might n seem s peculi>4 ,z soon z we c\ld buy wooll5 mat]ial all ! m5 %\ld h new clo!s1 s t ,i 9 my rags w\ld seem ! poore/ & meane/ ( ! p>ty4 ,,*apt] ,,lxvii ,,april #bd ,9 ^! days our life 0 dismal & lonesome1 & our future unc]ta94 ,we w5t z 9 ! d>k1 feel+ ) our h&s le/ we %\ld fall4 ,e day :i* pass$ )\t any unt[>d ev5t came ^u me z a complete surprise4 ,we _h n[ only two days' j\rney to ,raga-tasam on ! great highway1 :]e c>avans & travell]s f>e to & fro1 & ,gov]nm5t (ficials are responsible t no unau?oriz$ p]son slips pa/4 ,i 0 ?or\ghly sick ( my disguise & ! con/ant unc]ta9ty1 & long$ = a crisis to free me f my emb>rassm5t4 ,b to deliv] ourselves1 ( our own free w1 into ! h&s ( ! ,tibetans 0 out ( ! "q4 ,!y mu/ detect u !mselves1 & till !n ! /ra9 on our n]ves mu/ cont9ue4 ,april #bd--! anniv]s>y ( ! ,vega's return to ,/ockholm 9 #ahhj6 ,at sunrise ! :ole c\ntry lay "u a bright w9try %r\d ( :ite sn[4 ,! !rmomet] _h fall5 to #b1 b :5 ! sun m\nt$ up ! horses /eam$1 & light cl\ds ( vap\r rose up f ! sn[1 s t we might h be5 rid+ ?r\gh a l& ( sol-fat>as & fum>oles4 ,our c>avan animals /ruggl$ bravely up ! t\gh asc5t4 ,( %eep we _h only tw5ty left1 & two ( !m 7 vet]ans f ,lumbur-r+mo-tso4 ,twice we ?\ght t ! pass1 ,k9*5-la1 0 j be=e u1 b new heights rose f>!r back1 & we work$ our way up hills1 among :i* brooks run d[n t[>ds ,basang & ,saka-dzong1 :]e ,muham$ ,isa sleeps 9 8 m\nd4 ,to ! s\?-we/ ,*omo-u*ong's summits pres5t$ a gr& sight4 ,at l5g? we made ! la/ asc5t up to ! top ( ! pass1 :]e ! height is #ag1hea feet above sea-level4 ,at ! o!r side a riv] runs nor?-ea/1 "o ( ! headwat]s ( ! ,raga-tsangpo4 ,to ! we/ !re is a brilliant spectacle1 ! summits ( ,lunpo-gangri ris+ 9 %>p & savage beauty f a maze ( m\nta9s & ridges1 :i* %9e 9 light] blu] %ades ! m remote !y are4 ,to ! nor?-ea/ we cat* a glimpse ( an outly+ ridge cov]$ f foot to cre/ ) new-fall5 sn[4 ,! broad flat valley ( ! ,raga-tsangpo /ret*es ea/w>ds z f> z ! eye c see4 ,9 ! f> di/ance to ! ea/-s\?-ea/ a gr& sn[y cre/ %9es =?1 ! nor!rnmo/ ( ! ,himalayan sy/em 7,illu/4 #aii74 ,we /ay$ a long "t at ! top1 & ,i sket*$ a panorama4 ,!n we foll[$ ! track ( ! c>avan ov] ! l[] %\ld]s ( two m\nta9s1 & f\nd our camp pit*$ 9 a valley ) good grass & a brook p>tially froz54 ,my t5t look$ t[>ds its bank1 & all ?ree /ood z usual 9 a l9e4 ,?is day also _h pass$ satisfactorily1 b all w\ld be diff]5t next day1 = !n we %\ld come to ,raga-tasam1 :]e we encamp$ la/ ye> & /ay$ a week4 ,camp #cia 01 !n1 ! la/ :]e we c\ld /ill feel at ease1 = we _h se5 no liv+ be+ all day long1 & _h no neighb\rs4 ,"h1 !n1 we mu/ arrange "s fre% safegu>ds4 ,we mu/ sort out f our already scanty baggage all articles t might excite suspicion1 z1 = example1 ! small padd$ lea!r box 9 :i* ! !odolite 0 pack$2 = ! future x w\ld be roll$ ) its inn] wood5 case 9 my b$4 ,fur!r1 ! hypsomet]'s lea!r case & ! act9omet]1 :i* probably w\ld nev] be us$ aga94 ,:atev] 0 combu/ible 0 to be ?r[n into ! fire & ! re/ buri$4 ,a c\ple ( rugs ( camel's wool 7 also to be disc>d$4 ,illu/ration3 #ccd4 ,,tibetans ,,) ,,yaks4 ,illu/ration3 #cce4 ,,dor*e ,,tsu5 ,,on ,,! ,,m>*4 ,to beg9 )1 we mu/ make a *ange 9 our h\s+ arrangem5ts4 ,i 0 to sleep = ! la/ "t 9 my old wea!r-beat5 t5t1 :]e our *ief1 ,abdul ,k]im1 0 h5ce=? to set up 8 qu>t]s & receive gue/s4 ,= me a comp>tm5t ( ab\t #b squ>e y>ds1 n l>g] ?an my b$1 0 p>tition$ (f 9 ,abdul ,k]im's t5t4 ,?is crib1 :i*1 :5 ! camp 0 set up1 0 enclos$ on all sides1 0 h5ce=? to be my prison cell4 ,x 0 l a secret draw] 9 a bureau1 & :5 x 0 ready ,i inspect$ x & f\nd x some:at n>r[ b com=table4 ,su5 0 my hairdress]1 & he _h j complet$ 8 bus9ess :5 ,abdul ,k]im look$ 9 at ! t5t op5+ & :isp]$ t f\r m5 ) yaks 7 com+ up ! valley on ! road we _h to g d[n f ! ,k9*5-la4 ,i hurri$ly set my disguise 9 ord] & w\nd ! turban r\nd my head1 :ile ! flap 0 fa/5$1 & ,takk> 0 ti$ up be=e my t5t4 ,!n ,i look$ ?r\gh ! peephole 9 ! t5t canvas on ! side t[>ds ! upp] end ( ! valley1 & saw eight m5 on foot 9 d>k-blue & r$ dresses1 ) r$ sc>ves r\nd _! heads1 all arm$ ) guns & swords1 & lead+ n9e horses2 "o man l$ two lad5 horses4 ,:at 9 ! _w did ?is mean8 ,!y 7 n robb]s1 = !y came sudd5ly & at night4 ,!y seem$ r m5 9 ,gov]nm5t s]vice2 ! two 9 front 7 c]ta9ly (ficials4 ,my m5 occupi$ !mselves at _! fire2 ,i c\ld see t !y 7 a prey to ! greate/ uneas9ess4 ,! /rang]s came /raight to our camp-fire z if x 7 ! end ( _! j\rney4 ,!y =m$ a circle r\nd ,abdul ,k]im1 ,lobsang1 ,kutus1 & ,gulam1 & began an animat$ b subdu$ conv]sation4 ,?ree ( !m1 evid5tly s]vants1 l$ ! horses to a spot b>ely ?irty paces f my t5t & "r 9 front ( x4 ,!re !y took (f all ! saddles & loads1 s5t (f ! horses to graze1 br\ght out pots & cans1 arrang$ ?ree /ones 9 ord]1 collect$ fuel1 made a fire1 fet*$ wat] 9 a l>ge pot & cook$ tea4 ,x 0 pla9 t !y int5d$ to camp "h = ! night1 & t !y _h intrud$ on u = ! purpose ( wat*+ u4 ,! o!r five ent]$ ,abdul ,k]im's t5t1 ?rew !mselves d[n1 & cont9u$ ! conv]sation 9 ! same l[ quiet voice & 9 ?or\ghly polite & measur$ tones4 ,i c\ld n cat* :at !y said1 b t ! affair 0 s]i\s ,i c\ld only too pla9ly p]ceive1 = ,i he>d my "n m5tion$--,h$9 ,sahib4 ,aft] a good h\r's conv]sation !y w5t out aga9 & made a t\r r\nd my t5t1 b ! furi\s ,takk> w\ld n let !m approa* ! door4 ,b !y discov]$ ! peephole 9 ! side ( ! t5t1 & a man put 8 f+] 9 & look$ ?r\gh ! hole1 b ,i 0 ly+ aga9/ ! folds ( ! t5t on ! same side1 s he c\ld n see me4 ,!n !y w5t & ?rew !mselves d[n 9 a circle r\nd ! fire1 br\ght out _! wood5 cups & drank tea4 ,!y sat "r 9 front ( ! entrance to my t5t1 & ,i c\ld n get out )\t be+ se54 ,!n ,abdul ,k]im :isp]$ f ! back ( my t5t & inside 8 own1 & told me :at ! m5 _h said4 ,! lead]1 a /\ti% "y man ( good appe>ance1 _h put ! usual que/ions & receiv$ ! usual answ]s4 ,!n he _h utt]$ ! foll[+ words 9 a s]i\s & decid$ tone3 ,news ( y\r arrival has come to ! ,gov]nor ( ,saka-dzong ?r\gh two salt c>avans :i* pass$ y\r p>ty above ,pasa-guk4 ,z x has nev] occurr$ t a m]*ant f ,ladak has come f ! nor? & has travell$ on ! byway ?r\gh ,gebuk1 ! ,gov]nor & ! o!r au?orities 9 ,saka suspect$ t ,h$9 ,sahib might be conceal$ among y1 & ! m s because he himself express$ 8 wi% la/ ye> to come back aga9 & travel ?r\gh ! m\nta9\s regions 9 ! nor?4 ,!re=e my comrades & ,i receiv$ ord]s to foll[ y\r trail1 ov]take y1 & subject y to ! mo/ se>*+ exam9ation4 ,we are 9 no hurry1 & 9 ! morn+ we %all get sev]al yak-loads ( provisions4 ,y prote/ t ,h$9 ,sahib is n among y disguis$ z a ,ladaki4 ,well1 x may be t y are tell+ ! tru?4 ,b rememb]1 tsongpun1 t we %all c>ry out our ord]s to ! lett]4 ,y are ?irte5 m5 f ,ladak1 y say1 & ,i c see only t54 ,:]e are ! o!rs8 ,!y are out collect+ fuel4 ,good4 ,:5 y are all assembl$ "h we int5d to se>* y d[n to ! sk94 ,!n we %all turn out all y\r baggage & empty e sack we f9d 9 y\r t5ts4 ,& if 9 ?is exam9ation we f9d no?+ belong+ to a ,european1 x w rema9 = y to give a writt5 decl>ation t no ,european is among y\r p>ty conceal$ or disguis$1 & "u ?is decl>ation y mu/ set y\r "n-/amp4 ,!n y c travel e>ly 9 ! morn+ :]e y l1 & we %all return to ,saka4 ,:5 ,i he>d ?is report ! situation became q cle> to me1 & ,i at once decid$ :at ,i w\ld d4 ,b fir/ ,i crept by ! secret way into ! c>avan lead]'s t5t1 :]e ,i f\nd myself surr\nd$ by my reta9]s1 except ?ree1 :o 7 to w>n u if ! ,tibetans came back aga94 ,:at is to be done8 ,i ask$ ,abdul ,k]im4 ,! ,sahib kn[s be/ himself4 ,z f> z ,i c see1 our condition is hopeless1 answ]$ ! hone/ man1 :o _h got u out ( _m a scrape be=e4 ,:at does ,lobsang ?9k8 ,x w\ld n be wise to give !m su* a decl>ation1 he answ]$ ) a v tr\bl$ face4 ,sahib1 sugge/$ ,kutus1 if !y give u brea?+-"t till night1 ! ,sahib & ,i c hide among ! m\nta9s z at ! "t :5 we 7 close to ,tsongpun ,ta%i4 ,:5 ! se>* is ov] we c rejo9 ! c>avan f>!r d[n4 ,i c c>ry ! ,sahib's pap]s1 & o!r ,european articles c be buri$ 9 ! gr\nd "u ! t5t4 ,!y "k t we are ?irte51 rem>k$ ,gulam4 ,"u ! =ce ( circum/ances we _h made our way "r across ,tibet ) a trump$-up /ory1 b to let ,abdul ,k]im confirm a false docum5t ) 8 "n-/amp on my acc\nt 0 a little too /rong ev5 = my geographical consci5ce4 ,i c\ld n cons5t to t4 ,:atev] might happ51 our position 0 /ill a /rong "o4 ,we 7 9 ! he>t ( ,tibet4 ,! next move w\ld be t we %\ld be s5t out ( ! c\ntry1 & by :atev] way we 7 oblig$ to g1 ,i %\ld c]ta9ly ga9 some?+ m4 ,i w\ld absolutely refuse to g to ,ladak1 b ,i w\ld be cont5t to g to ,india ?r\gh ,nepal1 or1 bett] /ill1 ?r\gh ,gyangtse4 ,no1 ,i said to my m5 z ,i rose up1 ,i %all give myself up to ! ,tibetans4 ,!n !y 7 all amaz$1 & began to cry & sob l *ildr54 ,:y d y weep8 ,i ask$4 ,we %all "p "h = good1 & ! ,sahib w be kill$1 !y answ]$4 ,oh no1 x is n s bad z t1 ,i said1 = x 0 n ! fir/ "t ,i _h be5 caught by ,tibetans4 ,:5 ,i walk$ out ( ! t5t ,i he>d beh9d me ! murmur ( ,mohamm$an pray]s3 ,allahu ekb]--,bismillah rahman errahim4 ,9 my usual disguise f top to toe1 & ) my face pa9t$ black1 ,i walk$ ) sl[1 delib]ate /eps /raight to ! circle ( ,tibetans4 ,:5 ,i 0 close to !m !y all rose up1 z if !y knew t ,i 0 no ord9>y ,ladaki4 ,sit d[n1 ,i said1 ) a dignifi$ ge/ure ( invitation1 & sat d[n myself betwe5 ! two pr9cipal m54 ,9 ! "o on my "r h& ,i recogniz$ at once ! ,pemba ,ts]+ ( ! ye> be=e4 ,i clapp$ him on ! %\ld]1 say+1 ,d y "k me aga91 ,pemba ,ts]+8 ,he answ]$ n a ^w1 b look$ ) wide-op5$ eyes at 8 comrades1 & nodd$ t[>ds me1 z mu* z to say ,x is he4 ,!y 7 mightily dumbf\nd]$ & disconc]t$3 no "o spoke1 "s look$ at "o ano!r1 o!rs gaz$ into ! fire1 "o ?rew a c\ple ( /icks among ! /ones1 & ano!r took small sips ( tea4 ,!n ,i spoke aga93 ,yes1 truly1 ,pemba ,ts]+1 y are q "r2 ,i am ,h$9 ,sahib1 :o visit$ ,saka-dzong la/ ye>4 ,"h y h me aga92 :at d y mean to d ) me8 ,abdul ,k]im1 ,lobsang1 & ,kutus /ood beh9d1 trembl+ l asp5 leaves1 & expect+ t prep>ations = an execution w\ld be ! next move4 ,illu/ration3 #ccf4 ,,f>ewell ,,ent]ta9m5t ,,= ,,! ,,tibetans ,,on ,,may #e1 #aijh4 ,/ill !y made no answ]1 b began to :isp] toge!r 9 gr\ps4 ,! y\ng] (ficial1 :o 0 evid5tly ! cock ( ! walk1 = ! o!rs look$ at him & wait$ = him to speak1 began to look ?r\gh 8 pap]s1 & pick$ out "o :i* he read 9 sil5ce4 ,z !y 7 s long 9 recov]+ f _! con/]nation--= !y _h n expect$ to get hold ( me s easily--,i s5t ,kutus = a box ( ,egyptian cig>ettes1 & (f]$ !m all r\nd4 ,ea* took "o ) ?anks1 & light$ x aft] ,i _h set an example & %[$ !m t ! cig>ettes 7 n fill$ ) gunp[d]4 ,!n ! ice 0 brok51 & ! lead] began to speak v s(tly & )\t look+ at me4 ,ye/]day /rict ord]s came f ! ,deva%ung t ! ,gov]nor ( ,saka w\ld be held responsible = ,europeans :o might sneak into ! c\ntry f ! we/1 & if any ,european %[$ himself he mu/ be imm$iately =c$ to return by ! way he came4 ,:5 ! report rea*$ ,saka ( a c>avan two days' j\rney (f1 ! ,gov]nor suspect$ t x might be y1 ,h$9 ,sahib1 & we h n[ accompli%$ our task4 ,9 ! ,gov]nor's "n we =bid y to take ano!r /ep ea/w>ds4 ,we beg y to con=m 9 all ?+s to our directions2 our heads & y\r p]sonal safety are at /ake4 ,to-morr[ y w foll[ u ov] ! ,k9*5-la to ,saka-dzong4 ,i said la/ ye> t ,i mu/ & w\ld see ! m\nta9 region nor? ( ,saka4 ,n[ ,i h se5 x1 & y h n be5 able to prev5t me4 ,y see !n t ,i c d m 9 y\r c\ntry ?an y\rselves4 ,n[ ,i int5d to travel back to ,india1 b by :i* way only ,li5 ,d>91 ,amban ( ,lhasa1 %all decide4 ,x is !re=e my int5tion to write to him1 & ,i %all n g any:]e be=e 8 answ] comes4 ,we d n wi% y to travel by any o!r way ?an ! "o y *oose1 b we h no au?ority to =w>d a lett] to ,lhasa2 ! ,gov]nor w decide ! "q himself4 ,x is ) him y mu/ treat2 y mu/ meet him p]sonally4 ,!re=e we w accompany y to-morr[ to ,saka-dzong4 ,no1 sir1 any:]e else y please1 b n to ,saka-dzong4 ,y "k t my c>avan lead] di$ & lies buri$ !re4 ,x is aga9/ my pr9ciples to visit a place :]e ,i h buri$ a fai?ful s]vant4 ,y %all nev] get me to ,saka-dzong ev5 if y raise all ,tibet4 ,if x w\ld tr\ble y to see ,saka-dzong aga91 we w c]ta9ly n urge y to g ?i!r4 ,w y in/ead h ! k9dness to foll[ u to ,semoku by ! ,tsango1 on ! tasam1 :i* is only two days' j\rney to ! s\?-we/8 ,i w !n write to ! ,gov]nor & ask him to meet y !re4 ,good2 ,i w foll[ y to ,semoku to-morr[4 ,?anks2 ,i w at once s5d an express mess5g] to in=m ! ,gov]nor1 s t y may n h to wait at ,semoku4 ,b tell me :y y h come back aga98 ,y travel & travel 9 ,tibet & y are always s5t away1 b always come back aga94 ,_h y n en\gh la/ ye>1 :5 y 7 oblig$ to leave ! c\ntry by ! road to ,ladak8 ,& n[ y turn up aga9 among u4 ,h[ is t possible1 & :y are y come8 ,because ,i love y\r c\ntry & y\r fri5dly p to su* a degree t ,i _c live )\t !m4 ,h'm6 ,x is v k9d ( y to say s1 b w\ld x n be bett] if y 7 to love y\r own c\ntry a little m8 ,z long z we d n travel 9 y\r c\ntry1 y %\ld n travel 9 ours2 we rema9 at home1 & ! be/ ?+ y c d is to rema9 9 y\r c\ntry4 ,z long z ,i c sit 9 a saddle ,i %all come back4 ,y c in=m ! ,deva%ung at y\r leisure t _! ,excell5cies may look = m visits4 ,illu/ration3 #ccg1 #cch1 #cci1 #cdj4 ,,! ,,danc]s ,,at ,,! ,,camp-,,fire3 ,,tubges1 ,,kun*uk1 ,,su54 ,!y laugh$ pleasantly & look$ at "o ano!r1 z mu* z to say3 ,if he likes to come back1 he is welcome z f> z we are conc]n$4 ,& my ,ladakis laugh$ & 7 extremely a/oni%$ t our la/ day ( fre$om _h come to s peaceful & m]ry an end+4 ,! ,tibetans 7 exce$+ly agreeable1 polite1 & g5tle1 & nev] utt]$ a h>d or peevi% ^w ab\t ! tr\ble t ,i _h aga9 br\ght ^u !m4 ,& :5 ! old wool /ory1 :i* ,abdul ,k]im a little :ile be=e _h tri$ to cram d[n _! ?roats1 0 ref]r$ to1 !y laugh$ he>tily & ?\ght t x 0 a gr& device4 ,!y are s accu/om$ to lie !mselves t !y h a great admiration = any "o else :o succe$s 9 deceiv+ !m4 ,!y ?\ght x v wond]ful t we _h be5 able to cross ! :ole c\ntry )\t detection1 & believ$ t ,i mu/ possess "s my/]i\s p[]s ( :i* !y knew no?+1 & t !y mu/ be v cauti\s 9 deal+ ) me4 ,! "y (ficial1 :o 0 nam$ ,r9*e ,dor*e1 b 0 call$ ,r9dor1 a contraction ( ! two names1 wrote a long lett] to ! ,gov]nor ( ,saka1 say+ t ,i 0 ! same ,h$9 ,sahib :o _h be5 "h ! ye> be=e1 t we _h come to a fri5dly agreem5t to proce$ to ,semoku1 t ,i did n wi% to travel to ,ladak b /raight to ,india1 & t ,li5 ,d>9 alone 0 to decide on ! r\te4 ,! lett] 0 seal$1 & despat*$ by a m\nt$ c\ri] ov] ! ,k9*5-la4 ,!n we talk$ & je/$ aga91 & be=e sunset we 7 z intimate z ?\gh we _h be5 fri5ds f *ildhood4 ,we might h made an appo9tm5t to meet 9 ?is b>r5 valley & be5 glad to h f\nd "o ano!r4 ,x 0 easy to und]/& t ! ,tibetans 7 pleas$4 ,!y little ?\ght :5 ! sun rose t !y w\ld make su* a good cat* be=e ev5+4 ,! successful issue ( _! mission w\ld be ( great advantage2 !y w\ld be comm5d$ by ! ,gov]nor & ga9 promotion4 ,= my "p ,i _h a feel+ ( unmix$ satisfaction4 ,our fre$om 0 at an end1 b = me x _h be5 no?+ b an exce$+ly en]vat+ captivity4 ,n[1 = ! fir/ "t1 ,i felt p]fectly free1 & 0 no long] a prison] 9 my own t5t2 ,i %\ld h no ne$ ( t wret*$ hid+-hole 9 ,abdul ,k]im's t5t4 ,! ,tibetans laugh$ l\dly at my ragg$1 smutty1 greasy dress ( co>se grey sackclo?1 9 :i* ,i look$ l a convict1 or1 at be/1 l a begg+ monk ( ! ,grey ,fri>s' confrat]nity4 ,!n !y und]/ood h[ ,i _h succe$$ 9 cross+ ,bongba unse5 & unkn[n4 ,h[ delightful x w\ld be to ?r[ my rags into ! fire & clo! myself 9 a clean neat ,tibetan co/ume1 to be no long] oblig$ to hide my pap]s & in/rum5ts 9 rice sacks1 & n to h to pa9t my face black z a ,moor's in/ead ( wa%+ myself4 ,z soon z we _h p>t$ f our new fri5ds 9 ! ev5+1 ,gulam took a h&-bas9 ( w>m wat] into my t5t1 & !n ,i _h a good scrubb+ f top to toe1 & ! wat] %[$ t ,i want$ x4 ,he _h to *ange ! wat] f\r times be=e ,i 0 tol]ably clean4 ,!n ,i clipp$ my ,mohamm$an be>d to ! sk91 & sadly miss$ ! razors ,i _h ?r[n away4 ,b ,i 0 glad t we _h n burn$ ! ?+s we _h condemn$ "s h\rs e>li]4 ,r9dor begg$ ! loan ( "o ( our t5ts1 z _! own transport tra9 0 n expect$ till ! morn+4 ,besides ,pemba ,ts]+1 !re 7 two o!r m5 ,i _h kn[n ! ye> be=e4 ,!y 7 all v fri5dly1 & said t we _h tipp$ !m v g5]\sly4 ,!re 0 also a wr9kl$ old man 9 ! p>ty1 :o 0 always smok+ a ,*9ese pipe4 ,8 "n 0 ,kamba ,ts5am1 & x 0 8 t5t ne> :i* we _h s ne>ly be5 deta9$ two days be=e4 ,?us end$ ,april #bd1 #aijh4 ,/range1 melan*oly ?\ghts took possession ( me :5 ,i w5t to b$4 ,! ,tibetans _h aga9 ?w>t$ my plans--,i "k n h[ _m times !y _h done s4 ,our future 0 d>k z ev]1 b x _h arriv$ at a new /age1 & on ! #be? we %\ld wake up to beg9 a new *apt]4 ,! deep sil5ce 9 ! valley 0 only di/urb$ occasionally by ,takk>1 :5 ! fai?ful dog b>k$ at ! ,tibetans4 ,8 b>k 0 re-e*o$ f bo? flanks z ?\gh ?ree dogs kept gu>d ov] u4 ,& ! ev]la/+ />s glitt]$ z be=e ov] our lonely t5ts4 ,,*apt] ,,lxviii ,,8 ,,excell5cy ,,! ,,gov]nor ,,( ,,saka ,on ,april #be we rode 9 a compact body to ! m\? ( a valley ea/ ( ,*omo-u*ong1 call$ ,radak4 ,six ,tibetans gu>d$ me on bo? sides1 & our j\rney _h "s resemblance to a convict tra94 ,n[ ,i 0 n oblig$ to dism\nt be=e we pass$ a t5t4 ,on ! left h& 0 a l>ge op5 pla9 :]e ,raga-tasam is situat$4 ,a %ot 0 he>d 9 ! des]t$ c\ntry1 & ,r9dor s5t two m5 to see :at x 04 ,an antelope hunt]6 ,he 0 arre/$ & beat52 = ! ,gov]nm5t1 at ecclesia/ical in/igation1 _h =bidd5 ! ext9ction ( life = ?ree ye>s1 except 9 ! case ( %eep & yaks4 ,i 0 rem9d$ ( ! agreem5t to =bid ,europeans to travel 9 ,tibet = ?ree ye>s4 ,n[ ,i drew my map ( ! r\te1 took compass be>+s1 & sket*$ a panorama q at my ease4 ,! ,tibetans wond]$ at me & que/ion$ me1 b did n tr\ble !mselves mu* ab\t my "w4 ,& ,i _h pl5ty ( "t to ?9k ( ! l9e ( policy ,i %\ld adopt dur+ ! foll[+ negotiations4 ,i knew t !y w\ld urge me to return by ! way ,i _h come1 ?r\gh ,bongba1 or by ! road ,i _h tak5 to ,ladak ! ye> be=e4 ,= my "p1 ,i _h n[ _h en\gh ( ,tibet & ,i long$ to get home1 & wi%$ to avoid r\tes t involv$ loss ( "t & t ,i knew already4 ,n[ ,i only wi%$ to travel to ,india vi ,%igatse & ,gyangtse1 & ,i w\ld try to obta9 p]mission to travel to ^! t[ns by roads :]e no "o _h be5 be=e4 ,aft] ! excitem5t 9 :i* we _h liv$ s long came a reaction4 ,i 0 worn-out1 we>y1 & indiff]5t to ev]y?+ except ! ne>e/ way home4 ,!re=e ,i sat d[n & wrote a lett] ( fifte5 pages to ,li5 ,d>91 ref]r$ to 8 fri5dly lett] s5t to ,g>tok1 gave an acc\nt ( our la/ j\rney1 po9t$ out to him t no ,great ,p[] c\ld take x amiss if ,i travell$ out ( ! c\ntry ?r\gh ,gyangtse1 promis$ t 9 return ,i w\ld give him in=mation ab\t ! occurr5ces ( gold & salt ,i _h se51 & ab\t ! measures :i* %\ld be tak5 = ! promotion ( %eep-bre$+1--all natural res\rces1 :i* w\ld contribute to ! advancem5t ( ,*9a's newe/ prov9ce1 ,tibet4 ,& ,i conclud$ my lett] ) wi%es = ! happ9ess & prosp]ity ( ,li5 ,d>9 himself & peace to 8 =efa!rs' graves4 ,i did n d\bt a mom5t t he w\ld give 8 cons5t to su* a mode/ reque/1 & ,i saw 9 my m9d's eye ! dramatic sc5e :5 ,i %\ld make my fir/ call on ,major ,o',connor 9 ,tibetan dress1 & h a little fun ) him be=e ,i made myself kn[n4 ,b ,i may z well say at once t ?is long epi/le to ,li5 ,d>9 0 nev] s5t4 ,my oppon5t's tactics lur$ me to a conte/ 9 :i* he 0 *eckmat$ 9 two moves4 ,my m]it 0 z little n[ z =m]ly2 ,i 0 always a m>ionette1 & ! h&s :i* held ! /r+s hung ov] ! pa?s :]e ! cl\ds & />s move4 ,9 ! ev5+ ,i _h a visit f ,pemba ,ts]+ & ,kamba ,ts5am4 ,! =m] 0 mu* m g5tle & fri5dly ?an ! ye> be=e2 ! latt] 0 a great humori/1 :o did n seem at all annoy$ t he _h omitt$ to close ! bag :5 he _h u 9 x1 & _h let a valuable booty fall into ! h&s ( ano!r4 ,!y _h he>d ( my adv5tur\s voyages on ,tso-mavang1 & 7 a/oni%$ t ,i _h escap$ ) my life4 ,illu/ration3 #cda4 ,,inn] ,,c\rt ,,( ,,selipuk4 ,illu/ration3 #cdb4 ,,dor*e ,,tsu5 ,,& ,,ngavang ,,on ,,horseback4 ,two %ort days' m>*es took u ov] ! pass ,kule-la & d[n to ! valley :]e ,semoku /&s on ! great high-road4 ,"h /ood "s scatt]$ t5ts1 & ! ,gov]nor & 8 colleagues _h e/abli%$ !mselves 9 ! small /one h\se ( ! /ation4 ,all ! m important po/s 9 ,tibet are entru/$ to two g5tlem53 ?us1 = example1 !re are always two g>puns or vic]oys 9 ,g>tok1 a sy/em adopt$ ) ! int5tion t "o %all control ! o!r or %all in=m ( ! o!r if he is guilty ( any rogu]y4 ,9 ,saka-dzong1 h[ev]1 ! "o gov]nor seem$ to be ( high] rank ?an ! o!r2 at any rate1 he conduct$ all ! negotiations z ?\gh he possess$ great] au?ority4 ,z soon z we 7 ready ,r9dor & two o!r m5 came into my t5t & br\ght a message f ! ,gov]nor t he await$ me 9 ! /ation-h\se4 ,i answ]$1 t if he want$ any?+ ( me he might come to my t5t4 ,x 0 n long be=e a p>ty ( m5 cross$ ! hundr$ y>ds betwe5 our dwell+s4 ,i w5t out to meet !m1 invit$ !m to come 9 & sit d[n z f> z ! space all[$1 took up my position on my b$1 & _h be=e me ?ree g5tlem51 namely1 ,dor*e ,tsu51 pun or ,gov]nor ( ,saka-dzong 7,illu/4 #cbg71 ,ngavang1 8 colleague1 & ,oang ,gye1 8 eighte5-ye>-old son 7,illu/4 #cca74 ,a cr[d ( s]vants1 nomads1 & soldi]s mass$ toge!r at ! t5t door4 ,pun ,dor*e ,tsu5 is an unusually tall ,tibetan1 =ty-?ree ye>s old1 ( sympa!tic & ref9$ appe>ance1 dress$ 9 a ,*9ese co/ume ( silk1 ) a small silk cap on 8 head1 a pigtail beh9d1 & velvet boots4 ,he is a man ( weal?1 own+ l>ge flocks 9 ! prov9ce ov] :i* he rules & a /one h\se 9 ,lhasa1 8 home1 = he is an upa or domicil$ inhabitant ( ! prov9ce ,u1 ! capital ( :i* is ,lhasa4 ,!re dwell ?ree ( 8 f\r sons1 & "o ( !m is a "y lama4 ,8 wife has be5 dead "s ye>s4 ,ngavang1 8 coadjutor1 is a little1 fat1 k9dly man 9 ,tibetan co/ume1 b ) a ,*9ese cap & pigtail4 ,oang ,gye we>s 8 hair 9 ,tibetan fa%ion1 we>s no head-cov]+1 &1 l 8 fa!r1 is exce$+ly sympa!tic & good-natur$4 ,i hope t y h _h a successful j\rney & h n suff]$ mu* f cold1 said ,dor*e ,tsu54 ,oh1 x 0 cold1 & we h lo/ our c>avan1 our clo!s are 9 rags1 & our provisions are at an end1 b1 z y see1 t is ( no consequ5ce to u4 ,at ! "t ( y\r visit to ,saka-dzong la/ ye> ,i 0 9 ,tsonka1 b ,i receiv$ an acc\nt ( y\r movem5ts4 ,y 7 s5t away4 ,:y h y come back aga98 ,to visit ! di/ricts ,i 0 !n prev5t$ f see+4 ,i am a%am$ to h giv5 y ! tr\ble ( com+ "h f ,saka-dzong4 ,i hope t we %all soon come to an agreem5t ab\t ! r\te ,i am to take 9 ord] to leave ! c\ntry4 ,n[ ,i %\ld h to play my c>ds well4 ,i _h *ang$ my m9d dur+ ! la/ few days4 ,i _h re/$1 ! reaction aft] ! excitem5t ( travell+ 9 disguise _h pass$ away1 & ,i 0 exce$+ly eag] to attempt "s new discov]ies be=e ,i gave up ! game4 ,i _h1 x is true1 succe$$ 9 mak+ a v valuable trav]se across ,bongba4 ,i _h travell$ /raight across ! ^w ,unexplor$ on ! late/ ,engli% map ( ,tibet--yea1 ,i _h pass$ betwe5 ! p & l1 s t unexp lay on ! we/ side ( my r\te & lor$ on ! ea/ 7see ,map #a1 ,vol4 ,i474 ,b ,i _h left q unt\*$ two ext5sive /ret*es ( ! l>ge blank pat*1 & ,i dream$ ( no?+ else ?an to cross ,bongba aga9 by two fre% r\tes4 ,x w\ld c]ta9ly take f\r or five mon?s to return to ,india aft] a nor!rly zigzag c\rse1 in/ead ( a c\ple ( weeks if ,i made = ,briti% t]ritory ?r\gh ,gyangtse1 z ,i int5d$ at fir/4 ,b if ,i succe$$ 9 mak+ ! nor!rly det\r ,i %\ld c>ry home mat]ial ( p]haps great] value ?an ! discov]ies already made4 ,dor*e ,tsu5 answ]$ ) firm decision3 ,z to y\r way back1 ,i w tell y at once3 n a /ep fur!r ea/2 my head dep5ds on x4 ,"h y see ! ord] ,i receiv$ a c\ple ( days ago f ! ,deva%ung4 ,i w read x to y4 ,la/ ye> y travell$ )\t leave to ,nepal1 to ,kubi-gangri1 across ! holy lake1 r\nd ,kang-r9po*e1 & to ,yumba-mats54 ,i "k exactly :]e y w5t4 ,y _c d ! same ?is ye>4 ,x is probably 9 consequ5ce ( y\r j\rney 9 all sorts ( =bidd5 directions t ! ,deva%ung has di/ribut$ ?r\gh ! c\ntry in/ructions reg>d+ ,europeans4 ,two (ficials h rec5tly be5 s5t f ,lhasa to ,%ansa-dzong to see t no ,european approa*es ! holy city f ,naktsang4 ,"s "t ago a ,*9ese (fic] ) #bjj soldi]s 0 mov$ to ,t+ri to gu>d ! c\ntry f intrusion f ! s\?4 ,n ev5 a ,gurkha or a ,h9du c n[ travel 9 ,tibet )\t especial p]mission4 ,! o!r day ,i receiv$ a lett] f ! ,*9ese fronti] (ficial 9 ,t+ri :i* ,i w read to y4 ,z y see1 he ord]s me to =ce any ,european :o may come to ,saka f ! nor? to return 9 8 own foot/eps4 ,if he refuses1 ,i h to s5d (f a mess5g] to ,t+ri1 & %all receive assi/ance 9 a few days f ! soldi]s /ation$ !re4 ,times are *ang$ 9 ,tibet4 ,if y w n li/5 to me & travel back by ! way y came1 ,i w s5d a mess5g] to ,t+ri4 ,b1 l y1 ,i hope t we %all come to an agreem5t )\t unpleasantness & outside int]f]5ce4 ,my next move 0 a fe9t1 namely1 to try = ! ,gyangtse r\te2 ,i w\ld 9 ! end con=m to 8 wi%es & give up ! ,gyangtse r\te "u ! condition t ,i %\ld n be compell$ to travel along roads ,i knew already4 ,i po9t$ out h[ ne> we 7 to ,gyangtse1 & h[ easily he w\ld get rid ( me if ,i w5t ?i!r1 b no?+ made any impression on him4 ,he only answ]$1 ,all t is true1 b ! road is clos$ to y4 ,well1 ,i w give x up = y\r sake1 b only on condition t y =w>d a lett] f me to ! ,briti% ,trade ,ag5t 9 ,gyangtse4 ,y c und]/& t my family are di/urb$ at my long abs5ce & are look+ = news ( me4 ,yes1 ,i c und]/& t1 b ,i regret to say t ,i _c =w>d y\r correspond5ce4 ,all ! au?orities 9 ,tibet are /rictly =bidd5 to assi/ a ,european 9 any way1 z he has no "r to travel 9 ! c\ntry4 ,y w p]haps all[ two ( my own s]vants to c>ry a lett] f me to ,gyangtse8 ,no1 nev]6 ,well1 at lea/1 y c in=m ! ,deva%ung ( my arrival1 & ask ! ,gov]nm5t to s5d notice ( x to ,gyangtse4 ,i s5t a mess5g] to ! ,deva%ung z soon z ,i receiv$ ! lett] f ,r9dor4 ,!y w "k 9 ,lhasa 9 a few days t y are come "h aga94 ,i _h nev] induc$ any ,tibetan magi/rate to =w>d my lett]s4 ,t ,dor*e ,tsu5 refus$ to d me su* a trifl+ s]vice _h ! deplorable consequ5ce t my family did n receive any reliable report ( me till ,septemb]1 & !re=e suppos$ t "s mis=tune _h befall5 me4 ,in/ead ( rea*+ ! fronti] 9 a c\ple ( weeks1 ,i 0 s5t back aga9 into ! sil5ce ( ,tibet1 & ! waves wa%$ aga9 ov] our track4 ,b ,i took x = grant$ t news ( our arrival on ! tasam w\ld p5etrate to ,gyangtse bo? (ficially & ?r\gh reports1 & w\ld !n be made kn[n ev]y:]e4 ,su*1 h[ev]1 0 n ! case1 & aft] we left ! tasam our fate 0 buri$ 9 ! same complete sil5ce z be=e4 ,no1 ,h$9 ,sahib1 ,dor*e ,tsu5 cri$ out1 ! only way op5 to y is ! "o by :i* y came f ! nor?4 ,i w nev] travel by t road4 ,x is no use talk+ ab\t x4 ,y mu/4 ,y _c =ce me to d s4 ,to beg9 )1 ,i w n let y "k :i* way ,i came1 & ,i travell$ 9 disguise4 ,x does n matt]4 ,x is v well kn[n t y came f ! ,samye-la & ! ,k9*5-la4 ,beyond t ! escort ,i %all s5d ) y w ask ! way f t5t to t5t4 ,! nomads w answ] t !y h se5 no ,ladakis1 = fe> ( be+ puni%$4 ,i %all f9d means ( mak+ !m confess m ?an y ?9k4 ,y c kill me if y l1 b y %all nev] =ce me to travel ov] ! ,samye-la4 ,rememb] t ,i am a ,european & a fri5d ( ! ,ta%i ,lama4 ,y may lose y\r button4 ,mu* di/urb$1 ,dor*e ,tsu5 conf]r$ 9 :isp]s ) ,ngavang4 ,illu/ration3 #cdc4 ,,! ,,au?or ,,9 ,,tibetan ,,dress4 ,f a photograph by ! ,rev4 ,mr4 ,m>x1 9 ,poo4 ,i w give way s f> = y\r sake t ,i w all[ y to return to ,ladak by ! same road y foll[$ la/ ye>1 ?r\gh ,tradum1 ,tuksum1 ,%amsang1 ,p>ka1 & ,g>tok4 ,t 0 ! v solution ,i mo/ fe>$4 ,if !re 7 any road 9 all ,tibet t ,i wi%$ to avoid at any co/ x 0 ! road to ,ladak4 ,i answ]$3 ,nev]6 ,n a /ep on ! great high-road to ,ladak6 ,b :y8 ,y ought to be ?ankful = s great a concession4 ,x is =bidd5 by ! laws ( my c\ntry = a man to return 9 8 own foot/eps4 ,y c cut my ?roat1 b y w n =ce me to d any?+ ( ! sort4 ,y mu/ h /range laws 9 y\r c\ntry4 ,may ,i he> :i* way y really wi% to take8 ,i h already said ?r\gh ,gyangtse4 ,y refus$ & ,i und]/& y\r motive4 ,y h urg$ me to g back to ! nor?4 ,ev5 9 ?is respect ,i w con=m to y\r wi%es1 b only on ! condition t ,i am n oblig$ to retrace my /eps4 ,i w g ov] ano!r pass ea/ ( ! ,samye-la & nor?w>ds to ! ,t]i-nam-tso & !n we/w>ds by ! %orte/ way out ( ,tibet4 ,t is n to be ?\ght (4 ,b let u take ! matt] quietly4 ,w y agree to accompany me to ,kamba ,ts5am's t5t1 f\r days' j\rney f "h8 ,y h be5 !re already1 & be=e we rea* x we %all h come to "s und]/&+4 ,yes1 will+ly4 ,opposition spurr$ me on4 ,x n[ became a po9t ( hon\r to w9 a new game ( *ess4 ,my position 0 v /rong4 ,! tasam 0 elim9at$4 ,if ,i c\ld only cross ! ,trans-,himalaya by a m ea/]ly pass1 ,i %\ld by "s ruse or o!r ga9 ! ,t]i-nam-tso1 ,m5dong-gompa1 ! l[] ,buptsang-tsangpo1 ! ,t>ok-tso1 ,selipuk1 & an eigh? ,trans-,himalayan pass4 ,yes1 n[ ,i mu/1 if ev]1 play my c>ds well4 ,i /ill felt "y & /rong4 ,! political entanglem5t :i* encompass$ me on all sides 9 ,tibet r5d]$ x difficult = me to make geographical discov]ies1 b x /imulat$ my ambition4 ,!re=e ,i rememb] ) p>ticul> w>m? & sympa?y all ^? :o1 9 virtue ( _! tempor>y p[] 9 ! _w1 s\ght to raise ob/acles 9 my way4 ,we !n talk$ on v>i\s subjects4 ,he wi%$ to see our weapons1 & ask$ if he c\ld buy a revolv]4 ,no2 y %all h x z a pres5t1 c>tridges & all1 if y w let me g ! way ,i h propos$4 ,h'm6 ,y mu/ procure u all ! provisions we ne$ = two mon?s1 besides new %oes1 clo?+1 tobacco1 horses1 mules1 yaks4 ,) pleasure2 make out a li/ ( all y want4 ,x 0 done at once4 ,meal1 tsamba1 tea1 sug>1 ,japanese cig>ettes1 :i* 7 said to be procurable--all 0 to be br\ght f ,tsongka1 :i!r m\nt$ m5 7 s5t ! same day across ! ,tsangpo & ov] ! ,nevu-la4 ,ev]y?+ 0 to be 9 our t5ts 9 a week4 ,! re/ c\ld be obta9$ f ,saka-dzong4 ,9 ! ev5+ ,i paid an equally long return visit to my valiant fri5d ,pun ,dor*e ,tsu51 & at night ,i consign$ my lett] to ,li5 ,d>9 to ! flames4 ,ah no6 no ,*9ese int]f]5ce 9 ,tibeto-,sw$i% affairs4 ,on ! #bh? we rema9$ quiet & visit$ "o ano!r by ! h\r toge!r4 ,! two gov]nors sat on b5*es fa/5$ to ! wall1 ,r9dor & ,oang ,gye on mats on ! floor1 & all f\r play$ at dice4 ,! two dice 7 %ak5 9 a wood5 b[l1 & turn$ out on to a r\nd piece ( sk94 ,! m>k]s 7 small ,indian snail%ells4 ,!n !y play$ ) ,*9ese dom9oes4 ,mean:ile !y drank tea1 smok$ pipes1 sang1 jok$1 laugh$1 & mov$ ! bricks ) wond]ful & graceful dext]ity4 ,ngavang won t5 t5gas & 0 greatly elat$4 ,9 ?is way !y pass ! "t :5 ! day's "w is done4 ,r9dor is ! ,gov]nor's private secret>y1 & on a b5* & a table lay piles ( docum5ts & lett]s1 writt5 on co>se ,*9ese pap]1 & fold$ up "o on ano!r4 ,! ,gov]nor's correspond5ce n[ comes to ,semoku1 & 8 daily "w mu/ run its c\rse4 ,8 prov9ce1 ,saka1 is v ext5sive1 & he /ates ) "s pride t 8 p[] /ret*es to ,sangsang 9 ! ea/1 to ! ,nevu-la 9 ! s\?1 to ! ,m>ium-la 9 ! we/1 & nor?w>ds "s days' j\rney beyond ,kamba ,ts5am's t5t4 ,illu/ration3 #cdd1 #cde4 ,,soldi]s ,,( ,,! ,,g>rison ,,( ,,saka-,,dzong1 ,,belong+ ,,to ,,our ,,escort4 ,illu/ration3 #cdf4 ,,arm$ ,,tibetan ,,f ,,! ,,c\ntry ,,betwe5 ,,! ,,t]i-,,nam-,,tso ,,& ,,! ,,dangra-,,yum-,,tso4 ,illu/ration3 #cdg4 ,,boy ,,) ,,small ,,gun ,,on ,,! ,,s\!rn ,,%ore ,,( ,,! ,,t]i-,,nam-,,tso4 ,! illu/ri\s g5tlem5 7 mu* amus$ ) my co/ume4 ,y are a ,sahib1 !y said2 y 7 = six weeks ! gue/ ( ! ,ta%i ,lama2 y employ "o c>avan aft] ano!r1 & leave a quantity ( money beh9d y1 & yet are dress$ m %abbily ?an any ( y\r s]vants4 ,at night _! horses & mules 7 driv5 to ! /ation-h\se by soldi]s1 & we ought to h tak5 ! same precaution1 = our horses 7 attack$ by wolves4 ,! br[n horse we _h b\ght two weeks be=e = #ajj rupees _h 8 two "r feet ti$ toge!r le/ he %\ld run away1 & ! wolves direct$ _! attack on him1 z he c\ld n escape1 ate him up1 & took ! head (f ) !m4 ,at any rate x 0 miss+ 9 ! morn+ f ! skeleton1 :i* 0 pretty closely /ripp$4 ,on ,april #bi we rode toge!r on ! road d[n ! ,semoku valley1 :i* runs to ! upp] ,brahmaputra 7,illu/4 #cce74 ,?is we left on ! left h&1 z well z ! tasam1 & asc5d$ a valley :]e ! little village ( ,u%y ) its /one huts & b>ley fields is situat$4 ,! #aej inhabitants are at home only at se$time & h>ve/2 ! re/ ( ! ye> !y are away1 t5d+ _! %eep4 ,!nce we proce$$ ! foll[+ day to ! pass ,u%y-la4 ,! way is m>k$ by a succession ( mani heaps & *hort5s1 & ! pass by rods s ?9 z to be invisible at a di/ance1 & ! /ream]s !y c>ry look l a flock ( ti$ birds4 ,a little f>!r to ! nor?-we/ we cross$ ! pass ,gye-la1 :]e ,*omo-u*ong makes a f9e display1 & soon aft] we 7 on ! ma9 pass ( ! same "n 7#af1ace feet74 ,f a hill ne>1 ! eye c sweep ov] all ! horizon1 ! peaks & glaci]s ( ! ,himalayas1 ,*omo-u*ong1 & close at h& to ! s\?-s\?-ea/ ! ,brahmaputra valley ) ! riv] me&]+ 9 sev]al arms4 ,we encamp$ on ! bank ( ! ,sa*u-tsangpo1 :i* fl[s into ! ,*aktak-tsangpo we/ ( ,saka-dzong4 ,"h also lies a votive block ( a h>d gre5 rock1 cov]$ ) (f]+s1 bits ( butt]1 & /ream]s4 ,! #a/ ( ,may 0 celebrat$ by a m>* ov] ! ,lamlung-la1 a difficult pass1 on ! saddle ( :i*1 #af1gia feet high1 ! travell] is aga9 rew>d$ by a magnific5t view ov] ?is complicat$ sea ( m\nta9s4 ,f "h ,*omo-u*ong's sev5 summits appe> 9 a compact gr\p2 ! c5tral "o is ( a regul> conical %ape & is pure :ite all ov]2 ! o!rs consi/ *iefly ( black cliffs & projections1 f among :i* issue small blue-t+$ glaci]s4 ,! l5g? ( ! massive corresponds to t ( ,lunpo-gangri1 ( :i* x is a cont9uation4 ,9 ! ,nam*5 valley our unit$ camp =m$ q a little village1 = all ! *iefs ( ! c\ntry 7 conv5$ to a consultation4 ,& "h x 0 t ,r9dor & ,pemba ,ts]+ jo9$ u ) all ! goods we _h ord]$ f ,saka-dzong4 ,we /ay$ "h two days4 ,! wea!r 0 raw & *illy1 & ! temp]ature con/antly fell to #h4b4 ,!re 0 no spr+ z yet4 ,b ! wild-geese 7 on _! migration1 & :5 ,tubges once %ot a g&] at a neighb\r+ brook1 ,oang ,gye came to compla9 to me4 ,he 0 q ov]come at ?is brutal murd]1 & c\ld n conceive h[ my s]vant c\ld be s he>tless & cruel4 ,y are "r1 ,i answ]$2 ,i am myself sorry = ! wild-geese4 ,b y mu/ rememb] t we are travell]s1 & dep5d5t = our livelihood on :at ! c\ntry yields4 ,(t5 ! *ase & fi%+ are our only res\rces4 ,9 ?is di/rict y h pl5ty ( %eep4 ,is x n j z wrong to kill %eep & eat _! fle%8 ,no6 he exclaim$1 ) passionate decision2 t is q ano!r matt]4 ,y surely w n comp>e %eep to wild-geese4 ,!re is z mu* diff]5ce betwe5 !m z betwe5 %eep & human be+s4 ,=1 l human be+s1 ! wild-geese m>ry & h families4 ,& if y sev] su* a union by a ?\ghtless %ot1 y cause sorr[ & mis]y4 ,! goose :i* has j be5 b]eav$ ( h] mate w seek him fruitlessly by day & night1 & w nev] leave ! place :]e he has be5 murd]$4 ,h] life w be empty & =lorn1 & %e w nev] ent] ^u a new union1 b w rema9 a wid[1 & w soon die ( grief4 ,a woman _c m\rn m deeply ?an %e w1 & ! man :o has caus$ su* sorr[ draws d[n a puni%m5t on himself4 ,! excell5t ,oang ,gye 0 q inconsolable4 ,we might %oot antelopes1 wild %eep1 & p>tridges z mu* z ev]1 if only we left ! wild-geese 9 peace4 ,i _h he>d 9 ! ,lob c\ntry simil> tales ( ! sorr[ ( ! swans :5 _! union 0 dissolv$ by dea?4 ,x 0 mov+ to witness ,oang ,gye's t5d]ness & great sympa?y = ! wild-geese1 & ,i felt ! deepe/ respect = him4 ,_m a noble & s5sitive he>t beats 9 ! cold & desolate valleys ( ,tibet4 ,,*apt] ,,lxix ,,kamba ,,ts5am1 ,,fa!r ,,( ,,! ,,robb]s ,at ! ,nam*5 camp we b\ght a l>ge supply ( rice1 meal1 b>ley & tsamba1 sug>1 /e>9 c&les1 soap1 & five hundr$ cig>ettes1--all procur$ f ,tsongka4 ,a ri* m]*ant1 ,ngutu1 :o own$ fifty horses & mules & two hundr$ yaks1 sold u two mules & a horse1 besides clo? = new g>m5ts1 boots1 & caps4 ,abdul ,k]im ha/5$ to make me a ,tibetan co/ume ( f9e ,lhasa clo?2 on my head ,i wore a ,*9ese silk cap swa!d ) a r$ turban2 ,i /alk$ ab\t 9 silk ,*9ese boots1 & _h an elegant sword 9 my girdle4 ,9 my ,ladaki saddle ) its v>iegat$ fitt+s1 & rid+ a milk-:ite /allion1 ,i look$ 9 ?is make%ift outfit q l a ,tibetan ( rank 7,illu/4 #cdc74 ,illu/ration3 #cdh4 ,,troop] ,,( ,,! ,,escort4 #cdi4 ,,tibetan ,,( ,,t]i-,,nam-,,tso4 #cej4 ,,"y ,,%eph]d ,,( ,,bongba4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,"h a l>ge meet+ 0 held 9 ,dor*e ,tsu5's t5t1 :]e ! "q ( my return r\te 0 discuss$4 ,dor*e ,tsu5 insi/$ on ! necessity ( my cross+ ! ,samye-la aga91 & ,i answ]$1 z be=e1 t ,i int5d$ to take no o!r way ?an ov] a pass ea/ ( ! ,samye-la4 ,!n he appeal$ to ! nomads at h&1 :o no d\bt _h receiv$ _! in/ructions be=eh&1 & !y all affirm$ t ! ,*ang-tang c\ld be rea*$ by no o!r pass ?an ! ,samye-la4 ,h[ev]1 we _h he>d f ! horse-driv] on ! ,gebuk-la t a way l$ ov] ! m\nta9s directly nor? ( ,kamba ,ts5am's t5t4 ,b !n ! nomads1 :o w\ld h to let u yaks on hire1 repli$ t ! road 0 s bad t we c\ld n rea* ! ,t>ok-tso 9 ?ree mon?s1 & t1 = _! "p1 !y w\ld n let _! yaks g1 & come to grief on ! detritus ( ! pass4 ,!n we (f]$ to buy yaks1 b f\nd no "o :o w\ld sell 8 animals4 ,aft] ,dor*e ,tsu5 _h in=m$ me t ^? :o travell$ f ,saka into ,bongba ) hir$ yaks _h to *ange bo? m5 & pack animals at ,bupt on ! upp] ,buptsang-tsangpo1 ,i propos$ to divide my c>avan into two sections1 "o ( :i*1 "u ,abdul ,k]im1 w\ld cross ! ,samye-la1 :ile ,i ) ! o!r half m>*$ ov] ! ea/]n pass2 we w\ld meet on ! l[] c\rse ( ! ,buptsang-tsangpo4 ,ngutu1 a g5ial old man ( ,mongolian orig91 support$ me1 giv+ x z 8 op9ion t x 0 ( no consequ5ce :i* pass ,i cross$ myself1 provid$ t ! ma9 "p ( ! c>avan w5t ov] ! ,samye-la2 b ,dor*e ,tsu5 0 /ill ob/9ate1 & tri$ to fright5 me ) a tale ( t5 well-arm$ robb]s ^: haunts 7 9 ! c\ntry nor? ( ! m\nta9 ,i wi%$ to pass ov]4 ,if ! c\ntry is unsafe1 ,i return$1 x is y\r duty to provide me ) an escort ( t5 soldi]s4 ,! soldi]s belong to ! g>rison ( ,saka-dzong1 & _c be employ$ else:]e4 ,li/5 to me1 ,dor*e ,tsu51 & d n be s %ort-sight$4 ,if y give me t5 soldi]s1 y w be able to control my movem5ts4 ,i w pay !m #b rupees a man p] day = _! s]vices1 t is1 #bj rupees a day altoge!r4 ,y c well believe t ,i _c af=d su* a great exp5se = a long "t1 & !re=e y w h a gu>antee t ,i %all n take a long r\ndab\t way4 ,:5 ,i h rejo9$ ,abdul ,k]im's p>ty ,i %all be beyond ! limits ( y\r prov9ce1 & ! escort c return4 ,t is true1 exclaim$ two voices 9 ! cr[d2 if he pays #bj rupees a day1 he _c g f>4 ,dor*e ,tsu5 rose & call$ "s ( ! o!r m5 to a consultation outside ! t5t1 & :5 he came back aga9 he said t ,i might h my wi%1 if ,i w\ld sign a writt5 decl>ation t ,i took ^u myself all responsibility = ! consequ5ces1 = he wi%$ to be free f blame if any mis=tune befell me4 ,( c\rse ,i promis$ to sign su* a docum5t ) pleasure4 ,?us ! matt] 0 arrang$4 ,nima ,ta%i 7,illu/4 #cec71 a p[]ful man ( pleasant aspect1 & dress$ 9 a loose %eepsk91 0 to be *ief ( ! bodygu>d1 & z he said he did n "k ! road to ! nor?1 ,pan*or 7,illu/4 #ccb71 a man fifty-five ye>s ( age1 0 ord]$ to act z guide4 ,he 0 call$ into ! t5t4 ,i _h n se5 him be=e1 b ,abdul ,k]im said t he 0 ! same man :o on ,april #bc _h %[n u ! way to ! foot ( ! ,k9*5-la1 & t he _h se5 me & ,muham$ ,isa la/ ye> 9 ,saka-dzong4 ,he 0 a little1 ?91 wiry man :o _h kill$ eighty yaks ) ! gun he always c>ri$4 ,to ev]y?+ t 0 said to him he agre$ submissively ) ,la lasso1 la lasso4 ,we c\ld see t he 0 sly & knavi%--j ! /uff we want$4 ,) him & all ! o!r company we rode on ,may #d ov] ! pass ,g>a-la1 & f its r flat ?re%old saw ,kamba ,ts5am's t5t /ill 9 ! same place4 ,"h we cross$1 !n1 our r\te ( ,april #bb1 & _h made a loop r\nd ! sn[y massive ,*omo-u*ong4 ,pan*or 0 ! eld] bro!r ( ,kamba ,ts5am1 & x /ruck me z curi\s t :5 ! ,gov]nor ( ,saka pit*$ 8 t5t beside t ( ! weal?y nomad1 ! latt] did n come out to welcome him4 ,n[ a collection ( t5ts _h sprung up 9 ! valley l>g] ?an at any ( ! =ego+ camps4 ,c\ri]s & mess5g]s came & w5t1 small yak c>avans came up to ! t5ts ) provisions = ! (ficials1 & nomads _h come 9 f ! neighb\rhood to h a look at ! ecc5tric ,european :o _h come d[n l a bomb into ! c\ntry & _h be5 caught at la/4 ,illu/ration3 #cea4 ,,gue/s ,,at ,,! ,,op5+ ,,( ,,my ,,t5t ,,on ,,! ,,bank ,,( ,,! ,,t]i-,,nam-,,tso4 7,ov] ! op5+ a plaid is /ret*$ z a protection aga9/ ! sun47 ,illu/ration3 #ceb4 ,,! ,,yaks ,,=d+ ,,! ,,riv] ,,soma-,,tsangpo4 ,late 9 ! ev5+ ,kamba ,ts5am came sneak+ into my t5t4 ,he 0 v my/]i\s1 & said t ! ,gov]nor & 8 p _h no notion t he 0 pay+ me a visit 9 ! d>kness4 ,he wi%$ only to say t ,pan*or c\ld v well contrive t ,i %\ld g almo/ any:]e ,i lik$4 ,! escort _h /rict ord]s f ! au?orities1 b only ,pan*or knew ! way1 & c\ld easily ?r[ du/ into ! eyes ( ! o!r m54 ,i _h only to make my wi%es kn[n to ,pan*or & he w\ld manage ! re/4 ,if also a b& ( fifty robb]s swept d[n on u l a :irlw9d1 !y w\ld disp]se l %eep z soon z !y knew t ,pan*or ) 8 nev]-fail+ gun 0 ) u4 ,kamba ,ts5am ?us reveal$ himself z a cunn+ rogue1 :o _h n ! slighte/ respect = ! au?orities ( ,saka4 ,! old fool promis$ t ,i %\ld travel by ! roads ,i wi%$ if1 9 return1 ,i w\ld contrive t he %\ld be gov]nor ( ,saka4 ,:at he said 0 only idle talk1 & he himself 0 a fell[ to be on our gu>d aga9/4 ,!re 0 n a man 9 ,bongba :o _h ev] he>d ( him1 & 8 great p[] exi/$ only 9 8 own imag9ation4 ,9 8 own village he 0 kn[n & flatt]$ on acc\nt ( 8 great weal?1 & he boa/$ t no robb] d>$ to t\* 8 flocks1 = he 0 _! tru/$ fri5d4 ,i am ! fa!r ( all ! robb]s1 he said mode/ly4 ,i will+ly accept$ 8 invitation to visit 8 t5t next morn+4 ,:5 ,i _h pass$ x ! fir/ "t x 0 9 a sn[/orm1 & ,i _h look$ ^u x z a s]i\s m5ace to my plans & my fre$om4 ,almo/ l a ?ief 9 ! night1 expect+ to be discov]$ e mom5t1 ,i _h /ol5 pa/ ! black nomad dwell+4 ,n[ ,i approa*$ x z an hon\r$ gue/1 only b>k$ at by dogs4 ,! huge t5t1 made ( a numb] ( pieces ( mat]ial1 is support$ by ?ree v]itable ma/s1 firmly fix$ 9 ! gr\nd4 ,a /one wall runs along ! inn] side1 & 9 front ( x are heaps ( tsamba1 rice1 & corn sacks4 ,baskets & boxes /& full ( clo?+4 ,! alt>1 a wood5 %elf & a table are lad5 ) gaos1 images1 votive b[ls1 pray+ mills1 & holy books4 ,9 "o corn] /& p]haps a doz5 guns ) /ream]s on _! re/s1 & 9 ano!r z _m swords4 ,on ! he>?1 built on ! left ( ! entrance1 always /&s a l>ge tea-kettle boil+1 ready = any gue/s t may come 94 ,a batt]y ( wood5 cups /&s on a /one slab ready = use4 ,! blui% grey smoke rises up t[>ds ! *imney op5+4 ,f> away f ! entrance1 at ! "r corn]1 ! ma/] ( ! h\se has 8 seat ( hon\r1 a small divan ) a /ool table be=e x1 & be=e ?is aga9 a fireplace1 l a holl[ crack$ cannon-ball1 fill$ ) reek+ dung emb]s4 ,"s ( ,kamba ,ts5am's %eph]ds are sitt+ 9 a gr\p dr9k+ tea1 9 ano!r "p "s small black *ildr5 are play+1 & 9 a ?ird ! wom5 ( ! t5t are titt]+4 ,) pure :ite %ort hair1 wr9kl$ l cru%$ p>*m5t1 /one-bl9d1 & dress$ l ,monna ,vanna only 9 a cloak1 ,kamba ,ts5am's eighty-?ree-ye>-old "m sits on h] b$ & sw+s h] pray]-mill ) ! "r h&1 :ile h] left h& keeps ! beads ( h] ros>y 9 con/ant motion4 ,%e prattles & murmurs pray]s1 sometimes drops h] ros>y to cat* a tr\blesome insect1 & sometimes lets ! pray]-mill /op :5 %e is plung$ 9 vague dreamy ?\ght4 ,twice %e ask$ if ! ,european 7 /ill !re & if he _h be5 (f]$ tea & food4 ,may #e1 ! la/ day we enjoy$ ,dor*e ,tsu5's society1 _h to be celebrat$ 9 "s way4 ,i invit$ ! :ole p>ty to a fe/ival 9 ! camp4 ,! two ,gov]nors & ,oang ,gye took _! places 9 my t5t1 9 ! middle ( :i* our tea-cups 7 fill$ on an improvis$ table4 ,! day _h be5 cold & muggy & sn[ fell1 b we w>m$ our h&s ov] ! fire1 & sat wrapp$ 9 sk9 coats l f\r ,tibetans ( rank1 :ile ! populace =m$ a circle outside4 ,a fire 0 light$ 9 ! middle & 0 ma9ta9$ by dung f f\r sacks4 ,x 0 pit* d>k outside1 b yell[ flames ?rew a bright gleam ov] ! d>k ,tibetans1 s]vants1 h]dsm51 nomads & soldi]s1 wom5 & *ildr51 y\?s & old m54 ,!y /ood 9 wond]+ gr\ps 9 _! sk9 coats black5$ by ! smoke ( fires1 b>e-head$1 ) long black tresses hang+ ov] _! %\ld]s4 ,! light f ! fire made a va9 attempt to gild !m4 ,!y /ood out 9 %>p effective relief aga9/ ! deep %ad[s 7,illu/4 #ccf74 ,illu/ration3 #cec4 ,nima ,ta%i1 ,comm&or ( ! ,gov]nm5t-,escort on ! way to ! ,t]i-nam-tso4 ,illu/ration3 #ced4 ,nuns ( ,m5dong4 ,illu/ration3 #cee4 ,a high ,lama ( ,*ok*u4 ,illu/ration3 #cef4 ,! ,prior ( ,selipuk4 ,wat]-col\r ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,i *>g$ ,abdul ,k]im to d 8 v be/1 & he in=m$ me t ! programme w\ld conta9 fifte5 items1 song & dance foll[+ alt]nately )\t a pause4 ,! fir/ item 0 a dance ) /icks to repres5t swords2 ! second1 a hunt+ episode3 a wild animal1 compos$ ( two cr\*+ m5 ) a piece ( felt ov] !m & two /icks = horns1 w5t pranc+ r\nd ! fire2 a hunt] ) 8 gun crept ab\t1 took aim at ! mon/]1 kill$ him ) a s+le %ot1 & p]=m$ ) 8 fri5ds a triumphal dance ar\nd ! c>case4 ,!n foll[$ a ,ladaki dance1 little ,gulam lead+ ! troop1 & aft] t ,su5 execut$ 8 rem>kable dance be=e a lady1 repres5t$ by a /ick he held be=e him4 ,all ! o!rs kept "t by clapp+ _! h&s1 & invit$ ! ,tibetans to jo9 91 & my gue/s 9 ! t5t 7 convuls$ ) laught]4 ,! ,mohamm$ans execut$ a ,y>k& dance ) ,kutus z lead]4 ,!y danc$ r\nd ! fire1 sw++ _! arms & skirts1 & betwe5 ! fire & ! t5t !y appe>$ only z black pr(iles1 :ile on ! o!r side !y 7 light$ up by ! r$di%-yell[ flames1 & _! p]spir+ faces %one l bronze4 ,a song foll[$1 wak+ a sonor\s e*o 9 ! m\nta9s1 & ! ,tibetans recogniz+ ! air jo9$ 91 & all ! :ile ! m5 clapp$ _! h&s4 ,! smoke f ! fire took "p 9 ! dances & sometimes flew "r 9 ! faces ( ! spectators1 ! s++ became l\d]1 ! m]rim5t m uncontroll$1 & ! nomads laugh$ till !y _h to support !mselves ) _! h&s on _! knees1 z ,su5 revolv$ 9 grotesque pir\ettes ov] ! ar5a & ! nomads tri$ to imitate him4 ,! clumsy ,abdullah p]=m$ an indescribable dance ) 8 back b5t back1 & :5 he b5t himself s mu* t he fell backw>ds to ! edge ( ! fire1 ! delight ( ! spectators 0 unb\nd$3 !y laugh$ till !y 7 brea?less1 hopp$ ab\t & utt]$ wild yells1 :ile ! p]=m] %ook ! sp>ks f 8 coat & retir$ to 8 corn] 7,illu/s4 #ccg1 #cch1 #cci1 #cdj74 ,! ,tibetans evid5tly enjoy$ !mselves2 p]haps !y _h nev] _h su* an amus+ ev5+ 9 _! lives4 ,dor*e ,tsu5 said some?+ ( ! sort4 ,ngavang gave way to 8 k9dly laugh1 & ,oang ,gye enjoy$ ! unwont$ spectacle l a *ild4 ,= my "p1 ,i dream$ a:ile & ?\ght ( ! unexpect$ & s+ul> mann] 9 :i* fate _h all[$ me to *oose my c\rse4 ,?r\gh ! cl\ds ( smoke ,i seem$ to see all old ,asia be=e me1 & ! adv5tures ( pa/ ye>s beh9d me4 ,a c>nival ( old camp-sc5es danc$ be=e my m9d's eye1 expir+ l %oot+-/>s 9 ! night--m]ry songs :i* came to an end among o!r m\nta9s & ! dy+ s\nd ( /r+s & flutes4 ,& ,i 0 surpris$ t ,i _h n _h en\gh ( ^! ?+s & t ,i 0 n tir$ ( ! light ( camp-fires4 ,! w9d rises1 ! sn[ falls ?ickly & hisses 9 ! fire1 & ! flakes are light$ up f bel[4 ,) :ite hair & %\ld]s ! ,tibetans look l mi/ figures1 & beh9d !m hang ! d>k curta9s ( night1 f :i* is he>d f "t to "t a pony's neigh or a dog's b>k4 ,! la/ sack ( fuel is empti$ ov] ! leap+ flames1 burns up & s9ks1 & only emb]s are left1 gl[+ 9 ! ceaselessly fall+ sn[4 ,!n my grateful gue/s rise at midnight1 di/ribute gifts to ! p]=m]s1 say f>ewell1 & vani% l gho/s 9 ! d>kness to seek _! own t5ts4 ,n[ night reigns alone ov] ! valley1 ! surr\nd+s lie sil5t & /ill1 & only ! pelt+ sn[ makes a swi%+ s\nd aga9/ ! t5t4 ,on ! morn+ ( ,may #f ! c\ntry 0 aga9 :ite z 9 ! dep? ( w9t]4 ,quietly & lightly z cotton-wool ! flakes fell1 & all1 ! ,tibetans includ$1 7 m wrapp$ up ?an usual4 ,! ,gov]nors & _! ret9ue came to pay a f>ewell visit1 & !n ,i w5t out ) !m to _! horses1 took a la/ f>ewell1 & ?ank$ !m = all ! k9dness !y _h %[n me 9 spite ( ! tr\ble ,i _h giv5 !m4 ,dor*e ,tsu5 express$ a hope t we %\ld meet aga94 ,x is mu* easi] to get on ) m5 & lead !m :]e y wi% if y treat !m k9dly & g5tly2 y ga9 no?+ by viol5ce1 h>%ness1 & ?reats4 ,! ,gov]nor 0 a f9e upright figure on 8 horse2 8 face 0 entirely cov]$ ) d>k spectacles & a r$ hood to protect x f ! bla/ 7,illu/4 #cdb74 ,8 troop ( m\nt$ m5 0 consid]ably dim9i%$ aft] 8 escort _h be5 told (f to foll[ me4 ,!y /ruck _! heels into _! horses & soon disappe>$ up ! hill on ! way to ! ,g>a-la4 ,illu/ration3 #ceg4 ,,two ,,lamas ,,( ,,m5dong4 ,illu/ration3 #ceh4 ,,my ,,%eep ,,cross+ ,,! ,,riv] ,,soma-,,tsangpo4 ,my c>avan 0 n[ to be divid$ into two p>ties4 ,only five m5 7 to foll[ me1 namely1 ,gulam1 ,lobsang1 ,kutus1 ,tubges1 & ,kun*uk4 ,we _h eight goats to supply milk2 our old %eep _h be5 sold = a m]e trifle4 ,a hundr$ rupees = ! fir/ five days 7 paid 9 advance to ! escort "u ,nima ,ta%i4 ,no agreem5t 0 made ) ,pan*or1 b he 0 to be paid well if he took me :]e ,i wi%$4 ,! o!r sev5 ,ladakis 7 ord]$ to proce$ "u ! comm& ( ,abdul ,k]im ov] ! ,samye-la to ! ,buptsang-tsangpo1 foll[ ! /ream sl[ly d[nw>ds1 & wait = u ne> its m\? 9 ! ,t>ok-tso4 ,:atev] !y did1 !y 7 n to leave ! ,buptsang-tsangpo1 or we might lose "o ano!r4 ,r9dor & ,pemba ,ts]+ 7 deput$ to foll[ !m ov] ! ,samye-la to ,bupt1 to br+ ! ,kebyang p to reason if !y refus$ transport animals4 ,my baggage 0 r$uc$ to a m9imum1 & ,i took ) me only a ?\s& rupees4 ,abdul ,k]im 0 responsible = ! rema9d] ( ! ca%4 ,he 0 an hone/ man1 b a noodle4 ,"s nomads accompani$ u ) six yaks = ! baggage 7,illu/s4 #cdd1 #cde1 #cdh74 ,?\gh1 accord+ to our plans1 we 7 to be sep>at$ only a few weeks1 ! p>t+ 0 t\*+1 & _m *ildi% te>s trickl$ d[n wea!r-beat5 *eeks4 ,we _h b\ght m horses1 & all my five ,ladakis c\ld ride4 ,we rode up ! valley 9 close ord]2 ! bottom 0 full ( loose rott5 ice1 lumpy tufts ( grass ) mice-holes among !m1 froz5 spr+s1 & detritus ( h>d gre5 s*i/4 ,we m>*$ nor?-ea/w>ds1 & !n due we/1 ov] ! small d\ble pass ,%alung-la1 & d[n to ! ,gyegong valley1 :]e we encamp$ at ,kamba ,ts5am's %eepfolds to buy "s %eep = food4 ,! escort _h got !re fir/1 & sat 9 _! black t5t dr9k+ tea4 ,we sat talk+ ) ,kamba ,ts5am & ,pan*or :5 a tall & /rongly built "y fell[ came & sat d[n at ! op5+ ( my t5t4 ,i h se5 ! ,bombo be=e1 he said1 9 ! neighb\rhood ( ,nak*u4 ,y _h a ,buryat & a lama ) y4 ,t is sev5 ye>s ago4 ,q "r4 ,h y br\ght me a message8 ,no2 ,i only wi% to ask if y are dispos$ to buy two good yaks f me4 ,y c h !m = half _! value4 ,?anks2 we d n want any yaks n[4 ,:at is y\r occupation8 ,robb]6 he answ]$1 )\t bl9k+4 ,aft] he _h gone1 ,kamba ,ts5am in=m$ me t "s "t ago ! man _h kill$ a nomad 9 ,rukyok1 & n[ 0 come to treat ab\t ! comp5sation = ! murd]4 ,! au?orities 7 look+ eag]ly = ! b& to :i* he belong$1 & ,kamba ,ts5am & ,pan*or knew exactly :]e !y 7 hid+1 b w\ld n betray !m le/ !y %\ld be robb$ ( _! prop]ty 9 rev5ge4 ,kamba ,ts5am & 8 bro!r 7 evid5tly on v confid5tial t]ms ) ! robb]s ( ! c\ntry1 & ,i v mu* suspect$ t !y 7 9 league ) "s ( !m4 ,9 ,pan*or we _h c]ta9ly an actual robb] *ief z guide4 ,he himself told u t ! ,deva%ung _h tri$ to engage him 9 _! s]vice z a spy & guide1 :5 !y wi%$ to track up an evad$ robb] b&1 b he w\ld n cons5t4 ,he knew t we _h a l>ge quantity ( money ) u1 & we 7 n too safe 9 8 company4 ,he c\ld v well arrange a night attack & 9 ! end play ! innoc5t4 ,he pret5d$ n to "k ! c\ntry beyond a c\ple ( days' j\rney to ! nor?1 b :5 he inspect$ our six horses he said3 ,?is "o y b\ght f an old nomad to ! we/ ( ,%a-kang%am1 & ?is "o f ,tsongpun ,ta%i4 ,if he knew e horse 9 ! c\ntry1 he mu/ also "k ! c\ntry v well4 ,i ask$ him to g ov] ! names ( our camp+-places to ! nor?1 b he gave only ! fir/ two1 & add$3 ,! re/ y w "k z y g on1 & if ,i _c f9d !m myself1 !re w always be "s robb]s ,i c ask4 ,on ,may #g we took leave ( ! old robb] *ief ,kamba ,ts5am1 & rode 9 close ord] up to ! pass ,gyegong-la1 :i* has a height ( #ah1jab feet4 ,! pass /&s on a di/9ctly m>k$ *a91 :i* is call$ ,kan*ung-gangri1 & x 0 v int]e/+ to f9d t all ! wat] on ! nor!rn side ( ! pass fl[$ to ! upp] ,*aktak-tsangpo4 ,kan*ung-gangri is !re=e n "p ( ! ma9 range ( ! ,trans-,himalaya1 & ! ,gyegong-la is only a second>y pass4 ,! great wat]%$ lay "s days' j\rney f>!r to ! nor?4 ,on ! nor!rn side we pass$ a w>m spr+1 ,memo-*uts51 :i* at ! orifice _h a temp]ature ( #ic4f1 :ile 9 ano!r ! wat] boil$ & /eam$4 ,! spr+s are surr\nd$ by s9t]1 t]races1 & bas9s 9 :i* sick p ba!4 ,pan*or _h an old field-glass & dilig5tly look$ out = robb]s & wild yaks4 ,he said t we ought always to keep toge!r 9 case we 7 attack$ by robb]s he did n "k1 & he bade u help ) our weapons 9 ! def5ce4 ,! camp ?is day 0 ,no4 #djj4 ,,*apt] ,,lxx ,,! ,,sev5? ,,cross+ ,,( ,,! ,,trans-,,himalaya--,,to ,,! ,,heav5ly ,,lake ,,( ,,! ,,?rone ,,m\nta9 ,tw5ty-n9e degrees ( fro/ on ! night ( ,may #h4 ,w9t] in/ead ( spr+ might be com+4 ,a mon? ago x 0 mu* w>m] 9 ,bongba4 ,b n[ we are m\nt+ up to ! heights ( ! ,trans-,himalaya1 ! wea!r is cold1 raw1 & w9dy1 ! temp]ature seldom above freez+-po9t1 & to-day ! :ole c\ntry is aga9 buri$ 9 sn[4 ,illu/ration3 #cei4 ,village bel[ ,lunk>-gompa on ! ,t>ok-tso4 ,illu/ration3 #cfj4 ,m5dong ,mona/]y we/ ( ! ,t]i-nam-tso4 ,illu/ration3 #cfa4 ,selipuk ,mona/]y s\?-we/ ( ! ,ngangl>+-tso4 ,wat]-col\r ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,illu/ration3 #cfb4 ,holiday ,co/umes & ,ornam5ts ( ,tibetan ,wom5 ( ,kyangrang 9 ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,wat]-col\r ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,we ride nor?w>ds & desc5d f a small saddle to ! ,*aktak-tsangpo1 ne> :i* we h to halt a :ile to w>m ourselves at a fire4 ,! riv] b5ds to ! we/-s\?-we/ to break ?r\gh ,kan*ung-gangri4 ,on its bank is se5 a t5t1 eight horses1 & a hundr$ %eep4 ,pan*or w5t (f to-day to /alk a h]d ( n9ety wild yaks1 & ,nima ,ta%i1 ! capta9 ( ! bodygu>d1 0 sure t a robb] b& 0 9 ! t5t1 = no nomads are se5 9 ?is cold c\ntry4 ,! escort1 p>ticul>ly ,nima ,ta%i1 7 dreadfully afraid ( robb]s2 & ,pan*or _h told u t we c\ld make !m g any:]e by fright5+ ! soldi]s ) robb]s4 ,:5 ,pan*or appe>$ aga91 he said t ! suspect$ t5t 0 really inhabit$ by ! b& :i* _h ! murd] 9 ,rukyok on its consci5ce1 & he add$ t if ! p 9 ,rukyok w\ld n let ! matt] re/1 ! b& ?reat5$ to commit new crimes 9 ! c\ntry4 ,i ask$ :y ! au?orities did n seize ! *ief n[ :5 he 0 s ne>1 b ,pan*or %ook 8 head & said t if he 0 tak5 & kill$1 ?irty o!rs w\ld be d[n on ! c\ntry1 & t w\ld be worse4 ,a b&it's life 9 ,tibet is on ! :ole a v pleasant "o4 ,foll[+ ! /ream upw>ds we came to ! small lake ,lap*ung-tso1 entirely cov]$ ) ice1 & set up camp #dja 7#ag1jcg feet7 on its ea/]n %ore4 ,x is enclos$ among hills & surr\nd$ on all sides by l(ty m\nta9s4 ,to ! s\? ,kan*ung-gangri appe>s 9 all its spl5d\r4 ,! sn[ is mu* m abundant on its nor!rn ?an on its s\!rn side1 & 9 ! holl[s betwe5 its summits ?ree l>ge & sev]al small glaci]s1 %ort & /eep1 are se54 ,f all ! valleys on ! nor?1 nor?-we/1 & nor?-ea/ brooks desc5d to ! ,lap*ung-tso1 & f ! s\!rn extremity ( ! lake ! ,*aktak-tsangpo issues1 & a little di/ance f>!r s\?-we/ breaks ?r\gh ,kan*ung-gangri4 ,may #i4 -#j4i at ?is "t ( ye>6 ,we move nor?-ea/w>ds along ! ea/]n %ore ( ,lap*ung-tso1 & foll[ a well-beat5 road consi/+ ( q fifty p>allel pa?s4 ,x is v int]e/+ to draw ano!r l9e on ! map ( ,tibet ?r\gh a "p unkn[n be=e4 ,"h travel ! m]*ants ^: de/9ation is ea/ ,bongba & ,*ok*u1 & "h passes a l>ge "p ( ! salt traffic f ,tabie-tsaka1 z well z pilgrims on _! way home f ,kang-r9po*e4 ,! la/ usually foll[ ! tasam on _! outw>d j\rney1 b return by ! nor!rn r\te--?is is1 t ! :ole pilgrimage may make a kore or a loop ( salvation4 ,our direction becomes n[ m nor!rly & we g up ! ,sangmo-b]tik valley1 :]e ! bottom is fill$ ) ice cle> z glass1 b !re is good pa/urage on ! flanks4 ,! c\ntry is q flat betwe5 ,kan*ung-gangri & ! ma9 cre/ ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,9 ! longitud9al valley betwe5 ! two we see to ! nor?1 #fj ,w41 ! comp>atively l[ saddle ,di*a-la1 :i* is1 h[ev]1 a wat]%$ ( ! fir/ rank1 = x p>ts ! wat] fl[+ to ! ocean f ! isolat$ dra9age ( ! plateau4 ,ov] ! ,di*a-la runs ! lately m5tion$ road to ! ,buptsang-tsangpo & ,tabie-tsaka4 ,nor?1 nor?-we/1 & nor?-ea/ are sev]al gangris ) firn-fields & sn[1 all belong+ to ! ma9 range ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,to ! ea/ lies a pass1 ! ,nakbo-kongdo-la1 ) ! ,nakbo-gongrong-gangri2 ov] ?is pass1 :i* also seems to lie on ! ma9 wat]%$1 a road runs to ,t>go-gangri & ,dangra-yum-tso4 ,betwe5 ,raga-tasam & ,ombo a road crosses ! ,tsalam-nakta-la1 mo/ly frequ5t$ by salt c>avans4 ,f camp #djb we c\ld /ill see ,*omo-u*ong to ! s\?1 #ac ,e4 ,a memb] ( ! robb] b& we saw ! day be=e paid u a visit & 0 evid5tly an old fri5d ( ,pan*or4 ,he gave u _m int]e/+ details ( ! ,t]i-nam-tso & ,m5dong-gompa1 :i* 7 aft]w>ds f\nd to be p]fectly correct4 ,i nev] c\ld make out ,pan*or4 ,ei!r he 0 9 league ) ! devil himself1 or he 0 a fully fl$g$ knave at 8 own risk & reckon+4 ,he n[ assur$ me t x w\ld be ! easie/ ?+ 9 ! _w to take me to ! ,t]i-nam-tso & p]haps also to ! ,dangra-yum-tso4 ,o gods ( ,naktsang1 slumb] 9 ?is cold spr+ & d n w>n y\r e>?ly vassals until x is too late6 ,yes1 if ,i c\ld only contrive to cross ! ,trans-,himalaya twice m1 ,i w\ld !n will+ly leave ?is mighty range to re/ a ?\s& ye>s "u a veil ( cl\ds & glitt]+ sn[fields4 ,x is /range t ?is wide c\ntry1 s ne> to ! ,indian fronti]1 %\ld h rema9$ absolutely unkn[n till our late times4 ,i am pr\d & delight$ to "k t ,i am ! fir/ :ite man to p5etrate to ?is wild]ness4 ,pan*or advis$ u to /ay a day 9 ! valley1 = we %\ld n f9d pa/ure z good z "h = a long "t4 ,i wond]$ h[ he c\ld "k t1 see+ t he _h said rec5tly t he _h nev] be5 nor? ( ! ,sangmo-b]tik-la4 ,on ! night ( ,may #aa ! !rmomet] fell to #c4 ,we f\nd ourselves 9 a great enl>gem5t ( ! ,trans-,himalaya call$ ,lap1 & ?is region is not$ = its sev]e climate4 ,ev5 9 ! middle ( summ]1 :5 x is w>m ev]y:]e else1 x is cold 9 ,lap4 ,! ice breaks up on ,lap*ung-tso only 9 ! beg9n+ ( ,june aft] all ! o!r ice is melt$4 ,f ! map x is se5 t _m consid]able riv]s1 fl[+ nor? & s\?1 take _! rise 9 ?is l(ty swell4 ,illu/ration3 #cfc4 ,,cross+ ,,! ,,kang%am ,,riv]4 ,! day's m>* took u up to high] gr\nd1 & ! way 0 dreadful--n a road at all1 b a track w9d+ among granite b\ld]s & yak-moss4 ,& next day x 0 /ill worse4 ,9 raw w9try wea!r1 ) a temp]ature ( #a4b1 we w\nd up ! asc5t extremely sl[ly1 :]e all small & loose mat]ial _h be5 remov$1 s t ! animals might at any mom5t break _! legs among ! /ones4 ,"h no o!r vegetation 0 se5 b a moss1 yell[ z ! yolk ( an egg1 & ano!r %ad+ into r$4 ,on ! left we pass$ ?ree small glaci]s ) a blue t+e on _! fronts4 ,by "o ( !m "s wild yaks walk$ m$itatively4 ,! wea!r 0 s cold t we _h to /op frequ5tly to w>m our h&s at a small dung fire4 ,pan*or insi/$ /rongly on ^! halts 9 ord] t ! ,bombo may n be tir$2 b ,i suspect x 0 *iefly because he want$ a puff f 8 ,*9ese gansa4 ,?\gh x 0 a great /ruggle = our horses1 we came at la/ to ! ,sangmo-b]tik-la1 at ! giddy height ( #ai1jid feet1 & n[ ,i /ood = ! sev5? "t on ! ma9 cre/ ( ! ,trans-,himalaya & ! wat]%$ ( ! great ,indian riv]s4 ,! view 0 clos$ 9 on all sides & limit$ by adjac5t heights4 ,on a %>p ridge to ! nor?-we/ sev5 yaks 7 tramp+ 9 ! sn[4 ,pan*or & "o ( ! soldi]s w5t on foot 9 pursuit ( !m--to m\nt ^! /eep hills on foot & c>ry heavy1 clumsy guns is t\gh "w4 ,we rode on among ! granite b\ld]s2 l[] d[n gre5 porphyry beg9s4 ,! gradi5t became m g5tle1 & :]e we encamp$ we c\ld sc>cely p]ceive 9 :i* direction ! valley slop$4 ,! day _h be5 /ormy1 & ! bla/ cont9u$ on ,may #ac4 ,little ,puppy w5t out to look at ! morn+1 b crept back aga9 & lay on 8 mat4 ,takk> 0 /ill irreconcilable t[>ds 8 c\ntrym51 ! ,tibetans1 & inspir$ ! greate/ respect 9 all ! escort & ,pan*or4 ,we rode on ?r\gh ! valley nor?w>ds1 pa/ num]\s summ] camp+-gr\nds1 & recogniz$ ! *>act]i/ic l[ relief ( ,*ang-tang 9 contra/ to ! m deeply excavat$ valleys on ! s\!rn side ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,at ! m\? ( a side-valley runn+ 9 f ! we/ ! escort came to a halt1 & ,nima ,ta%i expla9$ t our road to ,bupt1 :]e we _h agre$ to meet ,abdul ,k]im's p>ty1 ran up ?is valley1 & t !y did n int5d to g f>!r nor?4 ,!y n[ %[$ _! tee? = ! fir/ "t1 & 7 n s pliant z we ?\ght4 ,!y excus$ !mselves on ! gr\nd t _! yaks 7 tir$1 t _! provisions 7 at an end1 & t !y _h no ord]s to accompany u m ?an f\rte5 days4 ,pan*or1 ! sc\ndrel1 took _! "p1 & fright5$ u ) ! *ief ( ,bongba-*u%>1 :o took tribute f all ! robb]s ( ! c\ntry1 & w\ld c]ta9ly plund] u if we pass$ ?r\gh 8 doma94 ,aft] long consid]ation we decid$ to camp :]e we 71 to ?or\ghly discuss ! situation4 ,be=e ! sun _h set ,i _h won !m ov]1 ?\gh x 0 *iefly ! *9k ( silv] rupees :i* made !m =get all _! scruples4 ,x 0 agre$ t !y %\ld receive _! #bj rupees e ev5+1 & ,i gave !m a goat 9 addition1 z _! supply ( meat 0 at an end4 ,s on ,may #ad we rode f>!r nor? 9 bl9d+ sn[1 & pass$ num]\s manis1 n9e /&+ 9 "o r[4 ,! valley became m op51 & 0 m ?an a mile broad4 ,we f\nd no wat] at ! camp1 b two ( our yaks 7 lad5 ) blocks ( ice4 ,e ev5+ we sat an h\r conv]s+ ) ,pan*or1 & x 0 easy to *eck 8 /atem5ts4 ,i told him once & = all1 t if he did n speak ! tru? he w\ld receive no extra gratuity4 ,9 ! ev5+ he decl>$ t !re 7 dreadful app>itions at ,muham$ ,isa's grave1 & t at night fe>ful %rieks & groans c\ld be he>d f b5ea?4 ,he 0 q conv9c$ t spirits & demons haunt$ ! grave1 & said t no ,tibetan v5tur$ to g ne> ! place2 ?is 0 well1 = consequ5tly ! grave w\ld n be desecrat$4 ,illu/ration3 #cfd4 ,,! ,,village ,,( ,,lunk>4 ,illu/ration3 #cfe4 ,,gr\p ,,( ,,tibetans ,,at ,,! ,,t]i-,,nam-,,tso4 ,he gave me also mu* valuable in=mation ab\t ! c\ntry r\nd ,nam-tso or ,t5gri-nor1 :]e he 0 born4 ,he _h gone twice r\nd ,nam-tso1 ?rice r\nd ,tso-mavang1 & twelve times r\nd ,kang-r9po*e1 :i* he int5d$ to visit aga9 soon1 to complete ! ?irte5? circuit ( salvation4 ,he consid]$ x sup]flu\s to make ! circuit ( ,dangra-yum-tso & ,t>go-gangri1 = he _h already tramp$ s f> t all 8 s9s mu/ be =giv51 & he 0 sure ( promotion 9 ! next inc>nation4 ,pan*or _h n ! slighte/ d\bt t a man or horse :i* _h drunk ( ! wat] ( ,tso-mavang or ,nam-tso 0 = ev] immune f illness1 robb]s1 & wolves4 ,x is j z ?\gh a fire blaz$ out ( t "p ( ! body :]e ! wolf int5ds to seize him1 he affirm$4 ,b he consid]ably modifi$ 8 /atem5ts aft] ,i _h told him t we _h a mule :i* _h drunk = a :ole mon? ( ! wat] ( ,tso-mavang & yet _h be5 torn 9 pieces by wolves at ,g>tok4 ,yes1 he repli$1 ! protection is only = ,tibetans & _! animals1 n = ,europeans & _! animals4 ,& if ! wolf itself drank ( ! holy wat] x w\ld avail no?+2 he w\ld /ill seize 8 prey4 ,on ! #ae? ( ,may we set out aga9 9 a sn[/orm1 :]eas ,i _h be5 look+ =w>d ev] s9ce ,janu>y to spr+4 ,x caus$ great m]rim5t1 bo? among ! ,tibetans & ! ,ladakis1 :5 "o ( ! escort :o did n "k ,kun*uk's "n1 spoke ( him z t !re calf4 ,we _h travell$ a good long way be=e !y ceas$ to laugh at ! newly inv5t$ title1 :i* /uck to ,kun*uk ev] aft]4 ,! valley op5s out on to a pla9 :]e kiangs1 ,goa & ,pan?olops antelopes are pl5tiful4 ,f ! ridge ( a hill we see to ! ea/ ano!r /ill l>g] pla91 beyond :i* ,t>go-gangri w\ld be visible if ! m\nta9 7 n %r\d$ 9 cl\ds & fall+ sn[4 ,bu*u-tso is a small pool :i* dries up 9 summ]4 ,!re lay ?ree black t5ts1 & beyond ano!r hill 9 ! locality ,kangm>1 sev54 ,:5 we encamp$1 sixty m51 wom51 & *ildr5 came out & wat*$ u4 ,!y _h ga!r$ toge!r "h to pay _! taxes to a collector f ,saka4 ,! di/rict is call$ ,bongba-*u%>1 & ! eld]ly ,gova came to visit u4 ,he 0 a discreet man & put no awkw>d que/ions4 ,pan*or1 :o 0 accu/om$ to run ) ! h>e & hunt ) ! h\nds1 _h probably giv5 him an acc\nt ( u be=eh&4 ,x seems he 0 t]ribly fright5$1 = he _h nev] 9 8 life se5 a ,european4 ,h[ev]1 he gave u mu* valuable in=mation ab\t ! c\ntry1 among o!r ?+s1 t ! little tw9 lakes ,mun-tso lay to ! nor? ( ! ,b>ong-la & ea/ ( ! ,t]i-nam-tso1 n s\? ( ! ,dangra-yum-tso z on ,na9 ,s+'s map1 :i* ,i _h myself f\nd to be incorrect4 ,on ! way to ! ,t]i-nam-tso we %\ld be able 9 two places to /eal goose eggs2 x 0 =bidd5 to ! ,tibetans = ?ree ye>s to take !m1 b a ,european c\ld p]mit himself any?+ )\t hav+ to answ] = x to ! gods ( heav5 & e>?4 ,aft] a day's re/ we m>*$ nor?-nor?-ea/ to ! broad longitud9al valley ( ,soma-tsangpo4 ,! riv] desc5ds f ! ea/-s\?-ea/1 & probably has its s\rce 9 ! great m\nta9 sy/em we saw f ! ,%uru-tso4 ,"h x runs we/-nor?-we/1 b aft]w>ds turns nor? & nor?-ea/w>ds1 & !re=e makes a %>p curve be=e x ent]s ! ,t]i-nam-tso4 ,its b$ is flat & %all[1 & at ! "t c>ri$ d[n ab\t #bhj cubic feet ( wat] p] second1 b x is s full 9 summ] t sometimes x _c be =d$4 ,we camp$ at a spr+ 9 a valley at ! f>!r side1 & on ,may #ah asc5d$ ! adjac5t pass1 ,dong*5-la1 & on its s\? slopes tw5ty-f\r ,ovis ,ammon %eep 7 a f9e sight4 ,on ! night ( ! #ai?1 ! m9imum temp]ature 0 #bi4e1 & n[ x felt z if spr+ 7 really come1 or ev5 summ]4 ,! way ran nor?-we/ up a /eep valley1 :]e granite & d>k s*i/s 7 twice obs]v$ 9 situ1 to ! small pass ,teta-la 7#af1bff feet71 :]e we _h at l5g? a free view ov] ! long$-= lake ,t]i-nam-tso1 ,na9 ,s+'s ,t$e-nam-tso1 :i* he nev] visit$ nor saw1 b only he>d (1 & ins]t$ ) a brok5 l9e q correctly on 8 map4 ,! only mi/ake he made 0 to draw ! lake long] f nor? to s\? in/ead ( f ea/ to we/4 ,to obta9 an un9t]rupt$ view we climb$ up a height on ! nor? side ( ! pass 7#af1igb feet74 ,! sc5e "h display$ 9 all directions 0 "o ( ! gr&e/ & mo/ memorable tableaus ,i h se5 9 ,tibet4 ,! heav5ly lake lay l a great flat-cut turquoise fram$ 9 m\nta9s & hills %ad$ 9 p9k1 r$1 yell[1 & purple1 :i*1 t[>ds ! horizon1 gradually pass$ into a light blue veil4 ,only to ! s\?-ea/ quadrant is ! view ob/ruct$ by adjac5t heights belong+ to ! *a9 on ! cre/ ( :i* we /&1 & :i* runs along ! s\!rn %ore ( ! lake1 b else:]e ! view is op51 dizzy1 b\ndless1 & ! eyes scan bo? ,%a-kang%am's maje/ic peak & ,t>go-gangri's _m-head$ ridge1 & ! sev5-times-m\nt$ ma9 range ( ! ,trans-,himalaya1 ) its sn[-cr[n$ heights ris+ 9 a r[ ( bright :ite domes to ! s\?4 ,_m o!r peaks & domes ) et]nal sn[ rise ov] ?is sea ( tumbl$ waves1 b1 aft] all1 ! f9e/ sight is ! lake itself1 :i* *>ms & fasc9ates ! spectator by its int5se ultram>9e hue1 a c\ple ( %ades deep] & /rong] ?an turquoise4 ,:5 "o fir/ comes to ! saddle ( ! pass & ?is weal? ( col\r+ /rikes ! ret9a1 "o c sc>cely re/ra9 an exclamation ( a/oni%m5t & admiration4 ,we look d[n /raight on ! lake1 & its s\!rn %ore is j bel[ u4 ,to ! we/ x ext5ds = two days' j\rney1 & wid5s out enorm\sly1 :ile to ! ea/ x contracts & seems to /ret* a good day's j\rney4 ,due nor?-ea/ ! blue surface is brok5 by a /eep rocky islet1 ) a level %ore only 9 ! ea/1 & fur!r ea/ "o fancies "o c detect ! holl[ :]e ! bas9 ( ! ,dangra-yum-tso skirts ! nor!rn foot ( ! div9e ,t>go-gangri m\nta94 ,beautiful wea!r1 n a cl\d on ! blue vault ( heav51 calm & quiet1 only ! g5tle/ :isp] ov] ! hills s\nd+ 9 ! e>s l ! t9kle ( small bells & ! vibration ( /r+s4 ,"o feels ov]:elm$ by ?is gr& beauty1 :i* speaks m p[]fully to ! s5ses ?an ! high mass ( any ar*bi%op4 ,i /ood sev]al h\rs up "h & made a hopeless attempt to sket* ! l&scape1 b succe$$ 9 produc+ only a feeble imitation ( ! reality4 ,f ! ,teta-la "o comm&s a v consid]able area ( ! he>t ( ,tibet4 ,h[ ext5sive is ! l9e ( ,%a-kang%am6 ,h[ _m are ! po9ts f :i* ,i h view$ ?is wond]ful m\nta9 on diff]5t j\rneys6 ,l a gigantic beacon1 a m>vell\s l&m>k1 x raises its sn[-cov]$ dome above desolate ,tibet4 ,& we 7 f> f its dripp+ glaci]s :5 = ! la/ "t x sank bel[ ! horizon l a dream ( sn[ & roses4 ,at la/ we _h to drag ourselves away & foll[ ! track ( ! o!r m5 to a little dre>y valley :]e !y _h encamp$ ne> a c\ple ( t5ts4 ,ev5 "h ! view 0 rem>kable4 ,h[ ,i n[ miss$ my old tri$ boat1 & h[ gladly ,i w\ld h glid$ ) sail & o> ov] ! heav5ly lake6 ,illu/ration3 #cff4 ,,! ,,village ,,( ,,lunk> ,,f ,,! ,,temple ,,hill4 ,illu/ration3 #cfg4 ,,! ,,s\!rn ,,%ore ,,( ,,manas>[> ,,) ,,graz+ ,,yaks4 ,we rema9$ f\r :ole days at ?is mis]able camp ) its f9e view 7#ae1fdf feet74 ,! fact 0 t ,dangra-yum-tso n[ = ! f\r? "t began to haunt my dreams1 & z ! holy lake 0 only f\r days' j\rney to ! ea/1 ,i w\ld try to rea* its %ore4 ,b ,nima ,ta%i & ,pan*or put all k9ds ( difficulties 9 ! way3 _! yaks w\ld p]i% :]e !re 0 no graz+1 & x 0 impossible to hire yaks1 = all _h lately gone to ,tabie-tsaka = salt4 ,i propos$ to g on my own horses & meet !m at ,m5dong-gompa aft] ! excursion1 & to ?is !y made no objection at fir/4 ,if ,i _h n be5 by ?is "t he>tily sick ( ,tibet1 ,i w\ld h play$ !m a pretty trick1 & gone n only to ,dangra-yum-tso1 b fur!r ea/w>ds until ,i 0 /opp$4 ,b ,i 0 we>y ( geography1 discov]ies1 & adv5tures1 & want$ to get home4 ,& besides1 on comp>+ ! l&s ea/ & we/ ( ! ,t]i-nam-tso1 ,i consid]$ ! latt] f> bett] wor? visit+4 ,! =m] ,i _h trav]s$ by ?ree r\tes1 & two o!r travell]s _h be5 !re1 b no "o _h be5 9 ! we/1 & we knew no?+ ab\t x except ! unc]ta9 data :i* ! ,jesuits _h ga!r$ f ! natives two hundr$ ye>s ago4 ,9 fact ?is l& 0 ! lea/ kn[n "p ( ,tibet1 & ! road to ! ,ngangl>+-tso crosses ! blank pat* 9 its long] direction4 ,if ! au?orities _h ask$ me :i* way ,i w\ld *oose1 ,i %\ld h answ]$1 ! way to ! ,ngangl>+-tso4 ,x w\ld h be5 wise/ to close at once ) ,nima ,ta%i's sugge/ion to g /raight to ,m5dong-gompa4 ,b _! opposition egg$ me on to break ano!r lance = ,dangra-yum-tso4 ,i ought to h rememb]$ t he :o grasps at all loses all1 = ,i 0 )9 an ace ( los+ ,m5dong-gompa into ! b>ga94 ,= :5 ,nima ,ta%i saw t he c\ld n make me give way1 he secretly s5t a message to ,tagla ,ts]+1 ! *ief ( ,sangge-ngamo-buk1 ! di/rict we 7 9 & :i* is subject to ,naktsang4 ,& ,tagla ,ts]+ came4 ,la/ ye> he _h be5 9 ,lundup's tra9 :5 ! latt] _h /opp$ u at ! foot ( ,t>go-gangri & prev5t$ u f go+ to ! %ore ( ! holy lake4 ,n[ he look$ v gr& & important4 ,ov] a mantle ( pan!r sk9 he wore a belt ( six bright silv] gaos1 & 9 ! belt 0 /uck a sword ) a silv] scabb>d inlaid ) turquoise & coral1 & at 8 side rattl$ knives & o!r p5d5t articles4 ,ov] all1 he wore a long r$di%-violet mantle1 & on 8 head a ,*9ese silk cap4 ,he 0 accompani$ by six horsem51 &1 ! day aft]1 tw5ty m arriv$1 all arm$ to ! tee? ) guns1 swords1 & lances2 all 9 picturesque bright-col\r$ co/umes1 "s ) tall brimm$ hats on _! heads1 o!rs ) b&ages r\nd _! =eheads1 ,tagla ,ts]+ evid5tly took ! matt] s]i\sly1 & tri$ to get ov] me by talk+ ( rais+ ! militia 7,illu/4 #cbi74 ,! p[]ful *ief mean:ile ent]$ my t5t1 fri5dly & pleas$1 &1 l an old fri5d1 bade me he>tily welcome1 & express$ 8 great a/oni%m5t t ,i _h come back aga91 ?\gh ,i _h be5 =c$ ! ye> be=e to turn back4 ,_h ,i n already br\ght ab\t ,hlaje ,ts]+'s fall1 & w\ld ,i cause ! new ,gov]nor ( ,naktsang to meet ! same fate8 ,or :at did ,i mean8 ,no1 ,h$9 ,sahib1 y _c travel to ,naktsang4 ,turn to ! we/4 ,nima ,ta%i _h no au?ority to lead y ev5 to ! ,t]i-nam-tso2 x 0 on ! ,buptsang-tsangpo y 7 to meet ! c>avan4 ,y talk ( ,m5dong-gompa4 ,y h no "r to travel ?i!r4 ,!re is a ne>] way to ! r5dezv\s4 ,m5dong-gompa does n lie 9 my di/rict1 b all ! same ,i h s5t writt5 notices to all ! govas 9 ! c\ntry to /op y if y travel to ! mona/]y4 ,poor ,nima ,ta%i 0 half dead ) fright4 ,he _h ?\ght to fright5 me1 b n[ he saw t ! *ief & ,i sat toge!r l old fri5ds1 dr9k+ tea & smok+ cig>ettes1 :ile he 0 reprim&$ = br++ me too f>4 ,i told him aft]w>ds t he 0 a noodle1 & if he n[ got into tr\ble 9 ,saka x 0 8 own fault4 ,tagla ,ts]+'s good hum\r 0 mu* enhanc$ :5 ,i promis$ to turn back & con=m to ! arrangem5ts ( ! *iefs on ! way to ,m5dong1 if by any *ance ,i 0 prev5t$ f approa*+ ! conv5t4 ,we said f>ewell on ,may #bd1 & cont9u$ our j\rney we/w>ds along ! s\!rn %ore ( ! lake4 ,! wat] is salt & has an extremely unpleasant ta/e1 & _c be drunk 9 any circum/ances4 ,lamlung-la 7#af1hhj feet7 is a comm&+ pass1 :i* mu/ be cross$ to cut (f a p59sula4 ,! rocks are granite & gre5 s*i/4 ,h>es & wild-geese are v pl5tiful4 ,"h & !re are fre%wat] lagoons on ! %ore1 :i* =ms a v n>r[ belt at ! foot ( ! m\nta9s4 ,! nor!rn %ore belt seems to be mu* broad]4 ,we foll[$ ! s\!rn %ore ano!r day to ! spr+ ,t]tsi at ! we/]n extremity ( ! lake1 :i* =ms a l>ge regul> expansion4 ,i he>d ! "n ( ?is lovely lake v>i\sly pron\nc$ by diff]5t nomads4 ,na9 ,s+'s ,t$e-nam-tso is incorrect4 ,! ,gova ( ,kangm> insi/$ t ,ts>i-nam-tso 0 ! correct pronunciation1 & said t ! "n 0 be/[$ because ri di tsa-la tso yore1 t is1 ,! lake situat$ at ! foot ( ! m\nta94 ,! nomads on ! %ore1 h[ev]1 said ,tiri- or ,t]i-nam-tso4 ,at our camp #daa 7 two small m\nta9s on ! %ore1 call$ ,te*5 & ,te*ung1 or ! ,great & ,little ,te1 or m correctly ,ti4 ,ti is a lama's ?rone 9 a temple1 ri signifies m\nta91 nam heav51 & tso lake4 ,! :ole "n !re=e has ! poetical mean+ ( ! ,?rone-m\nta9's ,heav5ly ,lake4 ,its height above sea-level is #ae1cfg feet1 or #dac feet l[] ?an ,mont ,blanc1 :i*1 if x lift$ up its head f ! turquoise bill[s ( ! lake1 w\ld look l ! small rocky islet 9 its ea/]n half4 ,,*apt] ,,lxxi ,,ano!r ,,j\rney ,,across ,,! ,,:ite ,,pat* ,we left on ,may #bf ! heav5ly lake1 ! %ore ( :i* _h nev] be=e be5 trodd5 by ,european or pundit1 & saw its blue surface dim9i% to a sabre blade betwe5 ! m\nta9s1 & f9ally disappe> 9 ! ea/1 :ile we rode we/w>ds ov] a wide pla91 :i* 0 =m]ly "u wat]4 ,kutus1 ,lobsang1 & ,pan*or accompani$ me4 ,we mu/ ha/5 to desc5d on ! mona/]y be=e ! monks got w9d ( u1 & ! c>avan & escort c\ld come aft] & encamp ne> ,m5dong-gompa4 ,pan*or disappe>$ at ! fir/ t5t we pass$1 & 0 n se5 aga9 all day4 ,he 0 a c[>d1 & did n wi% to be suspect$ ( %[+ u ! way to ! sanctu>y4 ,we _h !re=e to %ift = ourselves & f9d our way ?i!r4 ,two m5 & a woman came out ( a nomad encampm5t to ! track we foll[$1 & ask$ if we _h se5 ! ,european :o 0 said to be travell+ ab\t ,bongba4 ,9 ord] to pres]ve my incognito till ,i came to ,m5dong1 ,i answ]$ t he 0 com+ beh9d ) 8 c>avan1 & if !y kept on ! look-out !y w\ld see an amus+ figure4 ,probably !y _h long giv5 up all hope ( see+ ! /rang]4 ,my involunt>y disguise !re=e did me good s]vice1 = ! nomads took me to be1 l ! o!r two m51 s]vants ( ! expect$ ,european4 ,h\r aft] h\r we rode on we/w>ds & look$ 9 va9 = a mona/]y4 ,b at la/ x cropp$ up all ( a sudd54 ,we 7 on ! top ( a bank t]race #cj feet high1 skirt+ on ! ea/ ! *annel ( ! ,soma-tsangpo1 & saw at ! foot ( ! opposite t]race ! quadrangul> /one h\se ( ! mona/]y ) its :ite walls & r$ frieze1 *hort5s1 mani heaps1 & /ream]s1 & on ! ea/ & we/ ( x two t5t villages1 ! upp] inhabit$ by sixty monks1 ! l[] by =ty nuns 7,illu/4 #cfj74 ,! ,soma-tsangpo1 also call$ ,nyagga1 or ,soma-,nyagga-tsangpo1 n[ c>ri$ d[n #cej to #dbj cubic feet ( wat]1 :i*1 divid$ into f\r *annels1 glid$ ov] a trea*]\sly deep5+ bottom4 ,we manag$1 h[ev]1 to =d x1 & rode up to ! gate ( ! mona/]y1 :]e t5 monks1 good-natur$ b res]v$1 met u4 ,i h no space to describe ! religi\s organization ( ,m5dong-gompa4 ,x is en\gh to say t hi!rto x 0 q unkn[n ev5 by "n1 l s _m ( ! conv5ts we visit$ ! ye> be=e4 ,! peculi>ity ( ?is mona/]y is t ! bro!rs & si/]s live 9 black t5ts1 & e t5t is a cell4 ,! t5ts _h a v com=table & attractive appe>ance1 b ! si/]s1 ( :om ,i took "s portraits1 7 hide\s to behold--old unwa%$ h>pies1 b>b>\s & demoraliz$4 ,t !re is any?+ idyllic & fasc9at+ 9 life 9 a nunn]y 9 ! wilds is a pure illusion1 :i* vani%es at once at ! sight ( ^! old apes4 ,!y h also a puzzl+ resemblance to _! male colleagues1 & x is (t5 difficult to decide :e!r "o ( !m is a man or a woman 7,illu/4 #ced74 ,:5 we left ! solit>y mona/]y on ,may #bh we decid$ to make = ! r5dezv\s on ! ,buptsang-tsangpo1 :]e ,abdul ,k]im w\ld no d\bt be uneasy at our prolong$ abs5ce4 ,x _h be5 arrang$ t we %\ld be sep>at$ only two weeks1 b be=e we rea*$ ! riv] a :ole mon? w\ld h pass$ away4 ,illu/ration3 #cfh4 ,,lunk>-,,gompa4 ,illu/ration3 #cfi4 ,,selipuk-,,gompa4 ,s we set out e>ly1 foll[$ ! "r bank ( ! ,soma-tsangpo s\?w>ds1 & cross$ ! range1 f ! top ( :i*1 at ! ,teta-la1 we _h fir/ se5 ! ,t]i-nam-tso4 ,! valley is q #b miles broad1 ! /r& t]races are well develop$1 ! fall is slight1 & ! ru% ( wat] is seldom he>d2 "h & !re /&s a t5t ) graz+ flocks4 ,"o m sunrise & we ride ?r\gh ! riv] 7,illu/4 #ceh71 :i*1 ) ! ,sa*u-tsangpo1 ,buptsang-tsangpo1 & ,bogtsang-tsangpo1 %>es ! hon\r ( be+ "o ( ! l>ge/ 9 ! int]ior ( ,tibet4 ,?r\gh ! valley ,goa-lung we rode up on ,may #cj to ! pass ,goa-la 7#ag1chb feet71 flat & easy1 ly+ amid/ p9k & grey granite1 & af=d+ an in/ructive view ov] ! ,trans-,himalaya to ! s\?4 ,to ! s\?-we/ we see1 close bel[ ! pass1 ! small lake ,k>ong-tso--a new discov]y1 l ev]y?+ else 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,our r\te ran to ! we/1 :5 we1 on ,june #a1 rode1 ) ! ,k>ong-tso on our left h&1 & a cre/ ( m$ium height on our "r1 ?r\gh ! di/rict ,bongba-kem>1 foll[+ ! great r\te ( ! salt c>avans betwe5 ,raga-tasam & ,tabie-tsaka1 :i* crosses ! already m5tion$ pass ,tsalam-nakta-la4 ,a high-road f ,naktsang jo9s ?is4 ,at camp #dag we _h ! ,*unit-tso ne> u on ! nor?-we/4 ,al?\gh we 7 at ! beg9n+ ( ,june1 ! m9imum sank bel[ freez+-po9t2 9 ! night ( ! #a/ ! !rmomet] fell to #af4c4 ,b ! day 0 w>m1 nay hot1 :5 ! sun %one & ! air 0 /ill4 ,! dre>y b>r5 valleys lay wait+ = ! ra9y season4 ,! grass 0 m ?an scanty1 = la/ summ] ! ra9s fail$4 ,our direction turn$ m to ! s\?-we/4 ,f camp #dah we saw1 to ! s\?1 #fj ,e41 ! op5+ ( a valley ?r\gh :i* a highway runs ?r\gh ,bongba-kyangrang ov] ! ,di*a-la to ,lap*ung4 ,our ,tibetans "k excell5tly well h[ to look aft] !mselves on ! j\rney4 ,on ! m>* !y twi/ /r+1 talk1 s+ & :i/le1 & %\t at _! yaks4 ,9 pit*+ _! camp !y set up _! black t5t 9 a mom5t1 fir/ /ret*+ out ! ropes & fa/5+ !m into ! gr\nd ) wood5 pegs1 & !n ?r[+ ! clo? ov] ! poles4 ,! animals are unload$ & s5t (f to fe$1 & ! m5 ga!r fuel & make a fire 9 ! t5t1 :]e all assemble to dr9k tea & sleep4 ,aft] a c\ple ( h\rs !y come out aga91 wre/le1 play & laugh4 ,9 ! dusk "o may be he>d s++ a monoton\s ballad1 :i* mu/1 h[ev]1 be amus+1 = ! o!rs laugh he>tily at e v]se4 ,morn+ & ev5+ !y gabble _! pray]s1 all toge!r1 murmur+ l bees 9 a hive4 ,an old man1 :om ,i knew ! ye> be=e1 has a rid+ yak ( 8 own1 & br&i%es ! escort's pray]-mill4 ,he is nev] se5 )\t ?is +5i\s in/rum5t4 ,! m5 are always good-natur$ & polite1 help u to collect fuel1 set up ! t5ts & load ! animals1 & frequ5tly pay u a visit4 ,we "k !m all by "n & are ! be/ ( fri5ds4 ,! temp]ature sank 9 ! night only a few degrees bel[ freez+-po9t1 & yet a sn[/orm rag$ almo/ all day long on ,june #c4 ,we rode pa/ a l>ge m>% 9 ! valley & up to ! flat saddle ,m]ke-sang1 ) a view ov] ! pla9 we cross$ exactly two mon?s be=e on ! way to ! ,buptsang-tsangpo4 ,camp #dai lay !re=e 9 ! ,bongba-kebyang di/rict aga94 ,to ! s\?-ea/ is ! pass ,*iptu-la1 ) ! pilgrim r\te f ,nak*u to ,kang-r9po*e4 ,to ! s\?1 #bg ,w41 rises a sn[y summit1 at ! foot ( :i* a road leads ov] ! ,dsalung-la to ,tradum4 ,z a wat]%$ ?is pass is ( ! fir/ rank1 & x s5ds (f a volum9\s tribut>y to ! ,buptsang-tsangpo4 ,! escort s5t (f a mess5g] 9 advance to ?is riv] to look out = ,abdul ,k]im's p>ty4 ,june #d4 ,x _h sn[$ all night long1 & we set out 9 ! wilde/ sn[/orm4 ,x 0 half d>k1 ) heavy lead5 cl\ds2 n a glimpse c\ld be se5 ( ! surr\nd+ m\nta9s2 all 0 wet1 muddy1 & evil-smell+2 pools ( melt+ sn[ lay on ! gr\nd1 & sev5 pilgrims f ,kang-r9po*e 7 close ^u u be=e !y em]g$ f ! mi/4 ,we spla%$ ?r\gh ! soak$ soil1 b :5 we encamp$ on ! %ore ( ! ,buptsang-tsangpo ! wea!r 0 mu* cle>]4 ,be=e ,i proce$ fur!r ,i w m5tion t ! great prov9ce ( ,bongba is divid$ into twelve tso or di/ricts1 namely3 ,p>ryang1 ,laktsang1 ,bupt1 ,ts>uk1 ,yeke1 ,t>ok1 ,kebyang1 ,kem>1 ,p>ma1 ,*angma1 ,kyangrang1 & ,*u%>4 ,to ea* ( ^! di/rict names is usually prefix$ ! "n ( ! prov9ce1 z1 = in/ance1 ,bongba-p>ryang1 ,bongba-laktsang1 etc4 ,we 7 n[ 9 ,bongba-kebyang4 ,illu/ration3 #cgj4 ,,! ,,trans-,,himalaya ,,f ,,abuk-,,la4 7,! ?ree p>ts 9 ! illu/ration =m a cont9u\s panorama f ,ea/ to ,s4,s4,w47 ,illu/ration3 #cga4 ,,/orm ,,ov] ,,! ,,trans-,,himalaya4 7,to ! left ! way up to ,samye-la2 valley ( ,buptsang-tsangpo47 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,"s t5ts /ood on ! riv] bank4 ,! nomads report$ t ,abdul ,k]im _h gone a week be=e by a cross-cut ov] ! m\nta9 on ! "r1 d[n t[>ds ! ,t>ok-tso4 ,!re 0 no ,gova "h1 b two natives 7 ready to let u on hire ! five yaks we requir$4 ,!y 7 %y & timor\s1 b ,pan*or1 ! rogue1 spoke well ( u1 & x 0 agre$ t !y %\ld accompany u to ! b\nd>y ( ,t>ok-tso4 ,on ! morn+ ( ,june #e we took f>ewell ( ,nima ,ta%i & 8 soldi]s & ( ,pan*or1 & rode betwe5 ! hills on ! left side ( ! valley d[n ! c\rse ( ! ,buptsang-tsangpo4 ,soon ! valley contract$ to a dit*1 b be=e long exp&$ aga94 ,on our left h& we _h ! ma9 range ( ! ,trans-,himalaya1 :i*1 h[ev]1 did n pres5t an impos+ appe>ance1 = we 7 always close to its foot4 ,at times we 7 envelop$ 9 a sn[/orm1 & at ,mabie-tangsam-angmo1 :]e we camp$1 we made ha/e to get a cov] ov] our heads4 ,:5 ,little ,puppy he>d ! ?und] rumble = ! fir/ "t 9 8 life1 he 0 v di/urb$ & b>k$ ) all 8 might1 b he c\ld n make out :5ce ! noise came1 & he f\nd x safe/ to fly into ! t5t & hide himself beh9d my b$-head4 ,june #f4 ,hail & sn[6 ,! :ole c\ntry is hidd5 "u newly-fall5 sn[1 z f> z we c see4 ,is ,june to be reckon$ among ! w9t] mon?s8 ,we h already _h n9e ( !m4 ,x seems z ?\gh summ] 7 miss$ out ?is ye> & we 7 approa*+ ano!r w9t]4 ,b ! precipitation is welcome to ! nomads1 = x promotes ! gr[? ( fre% grass4 ,we m>* sometimes on ! top1 sometimes at ! foot ( a l(ty erosion t]race #hj to #ajj feet high1 :i* is a *>act]i/ic feature 9 ?is l>ge valley4 ,geese1 wild asses1 ,goa antelopes1 & foxes are ev]y:]e4 ,a %>p b5d 9 ! riv] =ces u to ! nor?-nor?-ea/ = a "t1 & ! valley is aga9 n>r[ & picturesque4 ,at ,tuta1 :i* belongs to ,bongba-ts>uk1 we encamp close by ! ,buptsang-tsangpo1 :]e ! wild-geese swim ) _! yell[ *icks 9 ! cle> wat]4 ,eighte5 degrees ( fro/ on ! night ( ,june #g4 ,yet ! day 0 f9e1 & flies1 gnats1 & o!r insects 7 m num]\s ?an be=e4 ,z on ! two prec$+ days we cross$ sev]al small afflu5ts f ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,! ,buptsang valley exp&$ m & m1 & at l5g? became #ac miles broad4 ,we encamp$ 9 sight ( ! ,t>ok-tso1 on a level pla9 ab\t #af feet above ! surface ( ! lake1 & ) two nomad t5ts z our ne>e/ neighb\rs4 ,! height "h 0 #ae1aig feet4 ,our guides 7 ! pleasante/ & mo/ complac5t we _h ev] _h1 our movem5ts 7 n controll$ by *iefs & soldi]s1 & ,k>ma ,puntso's camp 0 f> away--we might h travell$ :]ev] we lik$4 ,b ! ,buptsang-tsangpo & ! ,t>ok-tso 7 ! mo/ int]e/+ geographical features 9 ,bongba1 & n[ we saw ! lake close 9 front ( u4 ,our plan 0 to make on ,june #h = ,lunk>-gompa1 :i* 0 se5 p]*$ on its hill ) a view ov] ! lake4 ,b x 0 n to be1 = at six o'clock ,gova ,p5sa arriv$ on horseback accompani$ by two s]vants4 ,he 0 dress$ 9 a h&some blue cloak1 look$ ab\t fifty-five ye>s old1 & greet$ u 9 a k9d & fri5dly mann]4 ,aft] a :ile came half a doz5 m horsem5--evid5tly we 7 held up aga94 ,gova ,p5sa ask$ u to rema9 :]e we 7 = ! day1 = ,gova ,p>vang1 ! di/rict *ief ( ,t>ok-%ung1 w\ld come 9 ! aft]noon4 ,he said x 0 impossible to see ,lunk>-gompa1 = bo? ! head lamas1 ) mo/ ( ! o!r tw5ty monks1 7 gone two days be=e to ,kang-r9po*e1 & _h left ! temple gates lock$4 ,only f\r nuns & two monks _h be5 left beh9d4 ,( ,abdul ,k]im's p>ty he only knew t !y _h met ,gova ,p>vang1 b did n "k :]e !y 7 n[4 ,gova ,p>vang did n put 9 an appe>ance1 b s5t in/ead 8 lieut5ant1 old ,yamba1 & sev5te5 o!r un>m$ m5 to my t5t4 ,yamba _h ord]s n to let u g to ,tabie-tsaka if he valu$ 8 head4 ,b he add$ t if we w5t !re ( our own accord & ) our own horses he c\ld n /op u1 b yaks & provisions w\ld n be suppli$1 & ! nomads _h ord]s to avoid u l ! plague4 ,w\ld we1 on ! o!r h&1 g up a valley :i* op5$ out to ! s\?-s\?-we/ by :i* we c\ld rea* ,tuksum 9 sev5 days ov] ! ,lungnak-la1 he w\ld let u hire yaks1 w\ld sell u provisions1 & provide u ) guides4 ,or if we w\ld g ov] ! ,lunk>-la nor?-we/w>ds to ,selipuk1 he w\ld also d 8 be/ to s]ve u4 ,he advis$ u to take ! latt] r\te1 = he _h be5 pres5t :5 ,gova ,p>vang =c$ ,abdul ,k]im to take ! direct road to ,selipuk betwe5 ! ,t>ok-tso & ,tabie-tsaka4 ,we _h1 !n1 ?ree diff]5t r\tes to *oose f1 :i* l$ ov] ! blank space on ! map ( ,tibet1 :]e !re are no o!r black l9es b ! m]idians & p>allels & ! ^w ,unexplor$4 ,i did n take a m9ute to *oose2 ! middle road ov] ! ,lunk>-la 0 naturally ! mo/ desirable1 = ,i knew t x w\ld yield me mo/ details to complete my k ( ! intricate orography ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,on ! morn+ ( ,june #i we ha/ily conclud$ our bus9ess1 obta9$ yaks & guides1 b\ght b>ley1 rice1 & tsamba1 took f>ewell ( ! *iefs ( ,bongba-t>ok1 & /e]$ our c\rse direct to ! temple4 ,we pass$ sev]al t5t villages1 = ! c\ntry is d5sely peopl$4 ,at ! foot ( ! m\nta91 on ! left1 a w>m spr+ rises out ( ! gr\nd4 ,bel[ ! mona/]y hill /& tw5ty small :ite /one cab9s1 ea* ) a r$ frieze "u ! eaves & a small quadrangul> y>d4 ,9 front ( ! village are two *hort5s 7,illu/s4 #cei1 #cff74 beh9d :i* two wom5 ) _! *ildr5 7 hid+4 ,:ile ! c>avan cont9u$ up ! ,lunk> valley1 ,i1 ) ,lobsang & ,kutus1 asc5d$ ! porphyry hill to ! temple1 :i* is surr\nd$ by a quadrangul> wall4 ,"s savage dogs ru%$ ^u u & snapp$ at ,little ,puppy1 b !re 0 no o!r sign ( life4 ,we w5t into ! c\rt & f\nd ! temple door clos$1 & fa/5$ ) a great iron lock4 ,z ,i 0 sket*+ a panorama ( ! great beautiful lake & its wrea? ( m\nta9s1 six m5 came up & told u 9 an angry voice to g away4 ,i rose up1 w5t /raight to ! ne>e/ ( !m1 &1 po9t+ to ! pa? d[n to ! village1 told !m t if !y did n imm$iately make (f !y mu/ put up ) ! consequ5ces4 ,!y turn$ r\nd meekly )\t say+ a ^w4 ,! lake /ret*es f nor?1 #bf ,w41 to nor?1 #eg ,e41 b ext5ds fur!r ea/w>ds hidd5 beh9d a m\nta94 ,to ! nor?-nor?-ea/ two rocky islets are se5 ne> ! nor!rn %ore4 ,to ! nor?-ea/ ! ,buptsang-tsangpo ent]s a bay1 & 9 ! f> di/ance 9 ! same direction our old ,%a-kang%am appe>s4 ,! wat] ( ! ,t>ok-tso is said to be sweet1 b ,i _h no opportunity ( confirm+ ?is /atem5t4 ,if x is correct1 ! lake mu/ h a subt]ranean outlet to ! ,tabie-tsaka ly+ to ! nor?1 ?\gh a small m\nta9 (f%oot lies betwe5 ! two lakes4 ,we left ! small inhospitable mona/]y & a c\ple ( small :ite & r$ h\ses1 :]e ! nuns h _! cells1 & soon rejo9$ our m5 9 ! ,lunk> valley4 ,illu/ration3 #cgb4 ,,sonam ,,ngurbu ,,& ,,8 ,,foll[]s ,,on ,,horseback4 ,illu/ration3 #cgc4 ,,"s ,,( ,,our ,,horses ,,on ,,! ,,way ,,to ,,kamba ,,ts5am',s ,,t5t4 ,9 ! night ! temp]ature 0 above freez+-po9t = ! fir/ "t4 ,our pa? asc5d$ /eeply to ! s\?-we/ & s\?1 & 9 ?ree h\rs we 7 at ! /ream]-deck$ cairn on ! ,lunk>-la1 :]e ! height 0 #ah1bgd feet4 ,f a height to ! nor?-ea/ ( ! pass ! ,t>ok-tso lies bel[ ! spectator z on a map1 & 9 ! nor? f #bj to #bf ,e4 is se5 ! :ite & yell[ sal9e depression ( ,tabie-tsaka1 r5[n$ ?r\gh\t ,tibet4 ,at ,goang-%ung we got ?ree new guides ) f\r yaks1 :o took u to ! bank ( ! ,gy5or- or ,goang-tsangpo--a small riv] :i*1 com+ f ! m\nta9 ,kapta 9 ! s\?-ea/1 falls into ! ,poru-tso4 ,to ! we/ rises a *a9 ( mighty sn[y peaks4 ,on ! morn+ ( ,june #ab1 aft] #h4h degrees ( fro/1 ! /ream 0 cov]$ ) a ?ird ( an in* ( ice1 & ,i miss$ ! pleasant rippl+ s\nd ( ! ev5+4 ,b ! ice broke up 9 ! sun%9e & rattl$ d[n 9 l>ge flakes4 ,we 7 conduct$ /ill to ! s\?-we/2 on ! next day :5 we encamp$ on ! lake %ore ! direction 0 ne>] we/4 ,f camp #dbh 7#ag1jfg feet7 we _h a f9e view ov] ! small lake ,poru-tso1 also call$ ,yeke-tso because x is situat$ 9 ! di/rict ,bongba-yeke1 ! we/]nmo/ 9 ! l>ge prov9ce ( ,bongba1 :i* is "u ! control ( ,k>ma ,puntso4 ,to ! we/ ( x foll[s ,rigi-hloma or ,rigi-*angmo1 :i* is subject to ,ng>i-k>pun1 z ! ,g>pun ( ,g>tok is call$ "h4 ,puru-tso is dry+ up2 ! highe/ %ore-l9e lies #ced feet above ! pres5t level ( ! lake4 ,! wat] is n fit = dr9k+1 b1 curi\sly en\gh1 x /ill conta9s fi%4 ,an extremely disagreeable od\r rises f ! bea*4 ,! lake /ret*es f nor?-ea/ to s\?-we/4 ,on ,june #ad we rode we/w>ds & cross$ ! broad valley wat]$ by ! ,nyap*u-tsangpo1 :i*1 desc5d+ f ! ,m5-la due s\?1 falls into ! ,poru-tso4 ,! ,m5-la1 a day's j\rney (f1 is a pass 9 a longitud9al valley betwe5 two ( ! ranges ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,ov] its ?re%old a road runs to ,%amsang on ! upp] ,tsangpo4 ,a day 0 sp5t on ! bank ( ! ,surle-tsangpo1 :i* also fl[s to ! ,poru-tso1 & 9 ! ev5+ c>ri$ q #baj cubic feet ( wat] p] second4 ,"h ,i 0 wait$ on by ,gova ,pund> ( ,rigi-hloma1 an eld]ly man1 :o gave me a kadakh1 butt]1 meal1 & milk1 & sold u all ! provisions we requir$ = sev]al days1 & 8 goodwill knew no b\nds4 ,! p 9 ?is "p ( ,tibet 7 always v fri5dly dispos$4 ,9 ! ,lob c\ntry ! natives call$ me ,padi%ahim or ,y\r ,maje/y1 a title t m ?an satisfi$ my ambition2 b 9 ,bongba & ,rigi ,i 0 (t5 call$ ,r9po*e or ,y\r ,hol9ess1 :i* ,i ?\ght a little too /rong4 ,b !y meant well1 & ,i accept$ _! civilities z ! mo/ natural ?+ 9 ! _w4 ,gova ,pund> knew e in* ( 8 c\ntry1 & ,i pump$ him ?or\ghly4 ,among o!r int]e/+ details1 he in=m$ me t ?irte5 days' j\rney to ! nor?1 ne> ! ,lakkor-tso1 0 a mona/]y ,m>mik-gompa1 a dep5d5cy ( ,s]a1 ) tw5ty-five monks & f\r nuns4 ,9 ! ye> #aija ,i _h be5 at ! ,lakkor-tso1 & _h he>d ! bla/ ( ! %ell-horn at ! o!r side ( a ridge1 b ,i did n enjoy ! same fre$om z n[1 & c\ld n visit ! mona/]y4 ,we rode on ! #af? 9 a sn[/orm1 ) fre% m5 & yaks1 ?r\gh ! picturesque ,surle valley1 & on ! #ag? ov] /ony moss-gr[n slopes to ! pass ,sur-la or ,sur-la-,kemi-la1 #ai1acd feet high1 :i*1 l ! ,lunk>-la1 is ( ! second ord]1 = x is a divide betwe5 ! ,poru-tso & ! ,%ovo-tso4 ,be=e rea*+ ! actual pass we _h a /rik+ view we/-s\?-we/ ov] a _w ( firn-fields1 peaks clo!d ) et]nal sn[1 & glaci]s1 "o ( :i*1 ( l>ge dim5sions & blui% gre5 9 front1 ) num]\s mora9es & rivulets1 desc5ds to ! ,surle riv]4 ,"h grey granite pr$om9ates2 wild yaks are ev]y:]e2 ! c\ntry is b>r5 & ( a high alp9e "*4 ,on ! o!r side ( ! ,sur-la ! gr\nd desc5ds rapidly among quantities ( m$ium-siz$ granite b\ld]s4 ,at camp #dca we 71 !n1 9 ! di/rict ,rigi-*angma4 ,:5 we w5t on f>!r d[n ! valley f ! pass on ,june #ah1 we sudd5ly he>d wild yells f a :ole *oir ( f\r l>ge & six small wolves1 :i* 7 /roll+ along a slope imm$iately to ! left ( ! pa?4 ,!y 7 greyi% yell[1 & seem$ hungry & 9 a v vici\s hum\r4 ,takk> ru%$ he$lessly at !m1 b !y fac$ him1 & he ?\ght x bett] to turn back4 ,!y %[$ no signs ( fe>1 b held _! gr\nd ev5 :5 we ?rew /ones at !m4 ,at t mom5t two horsem5 ) weapons & r$ hats came d[n f ! ,sur-la4 ,!y 7 pursuivants s5t out 9 advance to ,selipuk to make prep>ations = ! arrival ( ! s]puns1 or gold commission]s4 ,^! g5tlem5 are s5t annually f ,lhasa to ,tok-jalung1 & _! j\rney is burd5some to ! nomads1 = !y exact pack animals & food )\t paym5t4 ,!y take ! road nor? ( ! ,t]i-nam-tso & ,tabie-tsaka1 :i* is "o ( ,tibet's great art]ies4 ,x is call$ ! ,s]-lam1 or ! gold road4 ,ov] a small saddle we came to ! ,p$ang-tsangpo's valley1 #f miles broad1 :i* />ts f ! ,trans-,himalayan pass ,p$ang-la1 & runs almo/ due nor?4 ,camp #dcb 0 pit*$ on ! riv] bank 9 a place q devoid ( life4 ,our guides wi%$ to turn back ) _! yaks1 b 7 p]suad$ to accompany u to ! ne>e/ t5t village4 ,:at c\ld ! ,tibetans be ?9k+ (8 ,!y left u )\t ! slighte/ sup]vision1 & we enjoy$ m fre$om ?an ev] be=e4 ,we c\ld n[ h travell$ any:]e we lik$1 ea/w>ds to ,tabie-tsaka or s\?w>ds ov] ! ,trans-,himalaya2 b ! lakes 9 ! nor? _h mo/ attraction = me1 & we %\ld h to cross ! l(ty m\nta9s 9 ! s\? at "s "t4 ,,*apt] ,,lxxii ,,! ,,la/ ,,days ,,9 ,,unkn[n ,,c\ntry ,on ,june #ai we proce$$ nor?-nor?-ea/ d[n ! ,p$ang-tsangpo's g5tly decl9+ valley1 sometimes ne>1 sometimes at a di/ance f1 ! fairly l>ge riv]4 ,on ! "r 0 ! ridge ( ! ,sur-la ) its sn[y summits & small glaci] tongues1 & f> 9 ! nor? 0 se5 a huge cre/ call$ ,ganglung-gangri1 a prolongation ( ! ,sur-la4 ,we f\nd t ?is colossal range1 l its ea/]n & we/]n neighb\rs1 runs f nor?-nor?-we/ to s\?-s\?-ea/1 & t ! orographical configuration is totally unlike ! s*eme set =? by ,hodgson1 ,atk9son1 ,saund]s1 & ,burr>d1 = ^! g5tlem51 q hypo!tically1 ins]t$ a s+le *a9 p>allel to ! upp] ,brahmaputra4 ,9 reality "o w&]s "h 9 a labyr9? ( m\nta9 ranges1 "o & all only p>ts ( ! gigantic sy/em ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,! road 0 excell5t1 & aft] a long ride we set up our two t5ts on ! bank ( a glaci] /ream :ile sn[ squalls & %[]s ( pelt+ ra9 came d[n alt]nately4 ,"h we _h to /ay a day1 t ! g5ial nomads ( ! neighb\rhood might s5d = ! di/rict *ief2 = we _h no?+ to eat1 b _h to buy :atev] we c\ld get4 ,he came1 & we b\ght provisions = #ej rupees1 & gave him #bj = 8 k9dness4 ,our treasury 0 almo/ empty1 & ,i look$ =w>d ) trembl+ to ! "t :5 we %\ld be oblig$1 l w&]+ ,jews1 to sell wat*es1 revolv]s1 & horses to ga9 a livelihood4 ,= "h1 9 ,rigi-*angma1 no "o _h he>d ( ,abdul ,k]im & 8 m54 ,we c\ld n tell :at _h happ5$4 ,_h he gone q (f 8 head8 ,he _h #bejj rupees ) him2 _h he decamp$1 or _h he be5 robb$8 ,a lett] 0 despat*$ to ,gova ,p>vang say+ t if he did n get news ( !m 9 a week he w\ld h all ! ,deva%ung & ! ,m&>9s ab\t 8 e>s4 ,at any rate we _h made a spl5did j\rney ?r\gh unkn[n c\ntry1 & n[ we mu/ make our way to ! ,%ovo-tso we _h long he>d spok5 (4 ,prop]ly we ought to h gone ov] ! ,p$ang range on ! we/ direct to ,selipuk1 b x 0 n difficult to talk ov] ! ,gova1 & on ,june #ba he _h fre% yaks & guides ready4 ,! latt] 7 a "y man & a boy t5 ye>s old 9 a blue %eepsk94 ,) ^! we c\ld h gone (f any:]e1 b ,i 0 tir$ & long$ to get home4 ,! valley ( ! ,p$ang-tsangpo took u fur!r to ! nor?4 ,x is unusual to f9d 9 ,tibet su* a great longitud9al valley runn+ nor? & s\?1 = !y lie almo/ always ea/ & we/1 & produce ! peculi> p>allelism s *>act]i/ic ( ! c\ntry4 ,we pass$ sixte5 t5ts1 & ne> ! la/ we cross$ ! ,p$ang-tsangpo1 :i* runs to ! ,%ovo-tso by a m ea/]ly c\rse4 ,lobsang caus$ great amusem5t :5 he 0 attack$ by a furi\s dog1 &1 hav+ no /ones1 ?rew 8 bright %ea?-knife at him2 he miss$1 b ! dog took ! knife 9 8 tee? & ran (f to 8 ma/]'s t5t4 ,!n we rode up to ! ,abuk-la pass1 ) a view bo? magnific5t & in/ructive4 ,! blui%-gre5 ,%ovo-tso is1 l ,poru-tso1 longe/ f nor?-ea/ to s\?-we/1 & is surr\nd$ by huge m\nta9s1 "s ( !m ) et]nal sn[4 ,to ! nor?1 #cj ,e41 we see ! pass ,ka-la1 ov] :i* ! gold road runs4 ,! "n ,ka-la occurs on a map ( "o ( ,montgom]ie's pundits by a s+le isolat$ m\nta9 summit4 ,9 reality ! ,ka-la is ! v opposite ( a m\nta9 summit1 namely1 a depression or saddle 9 a m\nta9 range4 ,we encamp$ on ! s\!rn %ore ( ! ,%ovo-tso1 :i* lies at an absolute height ( #ae1fif feet4 ,! wat] is salt1 & r\nd ! %ore are se5 old %ore-l9es ( ab\t ! same height z at ,poru-tso4 ,illu/ration3 #cgd4 ,,lama ,,( ,,*ok*u ,,tak+ ,,leave ,,( ,,! ,,prior ,,( ,,selipuk4 ,illu/ration3 #cge4 ,,lama ,,( ,,*ok*u ,,on ,,horseback4 ,june #bb4 ,:5 we left ! we/]n extremity ( ! ,%ovo-tso we saw a l>ge c>avan ( yaks & %eep :i* seem$ to h ! same de/9ation z ourselves4 ,lobsang f\nd out t ! p 7 nekoras or pilgrims on ! way to ,kang-r9po*e1 & t ! own] ( ! c>avan 0 ! ,gov]nor ( ,*ok*u1 ,sonam ,ngurbu 7,illu/4 #cgb74 ,we left !m beh9d & rode up to ! pass ,tela-mata-la4 ,a horseman approa*$ u at a gallop1 & made signs to u to halt4 ,we wait$ = him1 all on ! tiptoe ( expectation1 = we made sure t he br\ght u a message f ,abdul ,k]im4 ,bah6 x 0 only "o ( ,sonam ,ngurbu's soldi]s :o want$ to ask our guides if a spr+ on ! way to ,selipuk _h any wat] 9 x ?is ye>4 ,sonam ,ngurbu's c>avan _h come f ,tabie-tsaka & _h n he>d a ^w ( our m54 ,x seem$ z ?\gh ! e>? _h swall[$ !m up4 ,my ord]s _h be5 t1 :atev] else !y did1 !y %\ld wait = u on ! ,buptsang-tsangpo4 ,d\btless !y _h be5 plund]$ by robb]s2 & we _h only #hj rupees left4 ,i bless$ ! h\r :5 ,i decid$ to keep myself all ! maps1 notes1 sket*es1 & rock specim5s :5 we p>t$ at ,kamba ,ts5am's t5t4 ,we c\ld obta9 money by sell+ "s valuables1 & f ,selipuk ,i c\ld s5d a c\ri] to ,?akur ,jai ,*& 9 ,g>tok4 ,f ,tela-mata-la we h aga9 a /rik+ view ov] almo/ all ! ,sur-la range & ov] ! m\nta9\s region ( ,lav>-gangri to ! s\? ( ,selipuk4 ,) e day's m>* ! orographical configuration becomes cle>]1 & soon ! lead+ features ( ! blank space w be ne>ly all asc]ta9$4 ,! temp]ature aga9 sank at ! midsumm] season bel[ freez+-po9t1 ! read+ on ,june #bc be+ #be4i4 ,we rode ?r\gh a small /eep valley up to ! ,tayep-p>va-la 7#ag1hhg feet74 ,! gr\nd 0 s honeycomb$ ) m\se-holes t ! horses trod on two or ?ree at once4 ,little ,puppy caught a c\ple ( field-mice by ! neck1 & we did n pity !m4 ,a m>mot :i* _h v5tur$ too f> f its hole almo/ fell into ,takk>'s clut*es1 b j sav$ himself 9 "t4 ,at ! pass we made ! usual halt = obs]vations1 & ,i drew a panorama ( ! surr\nd+s4 ,betwe5 nor? & nor?-we/ ! horizon is f> di/ant & ! c\ntry level2 only to ! nor?1 #e ,w41 appe>s a small sn[-capp$ dome1 b n ano!r gangri4 ,! view ov] ,ngangl>+-tso1 j bel[1 is gr&1 all ! m\nta9s 9 %ades ( p9k1 & ! wat] ( a deep ultram>9e4 ,a l>ge "p ( its ea/]n half is occupi$ by a l>ge isl&1 a m\nta9 mass ris+ out ( ! wat] ) a cont\r z irregul> z t ( ! lake itself1 all promontories1 bays1 & capes4 ,to ! nor?-we/ lie ?ree small isl&s4 ,no ,european _h ev] se5 ,ngangl>+-tso be=e1 nor any pundit4 ,b ! pundit s5t by ,montgom]ie 9 #ahfg to ,tok-jalung obta9$ "s hazy in=mation ab\t ! di/rict ,%ellifuk & ! great lake ,ghal>+-tso1 :i* 0 aft]w>ds ins]t$ 9 maps ( ,tibet4 ,! =m giv5 by ! pundit to ! lake1 namely1 an egg-%ape ) ! long] axis f nor? to s\?1 does n at all correspond to ! reality2 = ! lake /ret*es ea/ & we/1 & its cont\r c\ld n be m irregul> ?an x is4 ,! pundit places a small isl& 9 ! nor!rn half1 & adds ! leg5d ,mona/]y on ,isl&4 ,9 reality ,ngangl>+-tso has at lea/ f\r isl&s1 b n a s+le mona/]y4 ,on ,midsumm] ,day we encamp$ by ! ro>+ surf 7#ae1egg feet71 & on ! #be? we cross$ ! la/ hilly m\nta9 spur :i* /ill sep>at$ u f ! ext5sive pla9 ( ,selipuk4 ,f its height we aga9 saw ! great *a9 ( ,sur-la1 & to ! s\? ! ,trans-,himalaya ) sixty-?ree sn[y peaks1 regul> z ! tee? ( a saw4 ,on ! #bf? we rode ov] level c\ntry to ! we/-nor?-we/4 ,on ! pla9 two m\nt$ ,tibetans 7 pursu+ a wild ass1 :i* 0 w\nd$ 9 ! ne> =eleg & _h f\r dogs at 8 heels4 ,! dogs did n bite him1 b tri$ to *ase ! animal 9 a c]ta9 direction4 ,"t aft] "t ! m5 7 close on ! game & dism\nt$2 !y did n %oot1 b ?rew up du/ ) _! h&s to fright5 ! wild ass & drive him z ne> z possible to _! t5t1 t !y might n h to c>ry ! meat f> 7,illu/4 #cef74 ,illu/ration3 #cgf1 #cgg4 ,,boys ,,sitt+4 ,illu/ration3 #cgh4 ,,"y ,,lama4 ,illu/ration3 #cgi4 ,,old ,,woman4 ,sket*es by ! ,au?or4 ,camp #dci 0 pit*$ on ! bank ( ! riv] ,sumdang-tsangpo1 :i* fl[s into ! ,ngangl>+-tso )\t jo9+ ! riv]s ,lav>-tsangpo & ,aong-tsangpo1 f>!r we/1 :i* unite & ent] ! lake's mo/ we/]n b\nds4 ,"h ,lobsang caught a wolf cub1 a small wild rogue1 :i* mu* int]e/$ ,takk>4 ,b ,takk> _h a great respect = 8 h]$it>y enemy & v5tur$ to bite only 8 tail4 ,aft]w>ds he became bold]1 & :5 ! little creature f\nd himself 9 a desp]ate situation1 he ?rew himself into ! riv] to swim ov] to ! o!r side4 ,!n ,takk> gave a yell1 jump$ 9 & caught ! cub1 ?ru/ him d[n ) 8 paws1 seiz$ him ) 8 tee? & br\ght him to l&1 :]e he ate e bit ( him4 ,we foll[$ ! riv] upw>ds on ,june #bg & encamp$ aga9 on its bank opposite ! mona/]y ,selipuk-gompa 7#ae1fif feet71 ! abbot ( :i*1 a ,kanpo-lama1 ,jamtse ,s+e1 0 also *ief ( ! di/rict 9 secul> affairs 7,illu/s4 #cef1 #cgd1 #cfi1 #cda74 ,nei!r he nor any "o else _h he>d any?+ ( ,abdul ,k]im1 b he 0 s good z to se>* 9 8 holy books to f9d out :]e our m5 71 & he came to ! conclusion t !y 7 some:]e to ! s\?1 & t 9 tw5ty days we %\ld ei!r meet !m or he> "s reliable news ( !m4 ,on ,june #bh1 at half-pa/ n9e 9 ! ev5+1 ! c\ntry 0 %ak5 by an e>?quake--! only "o ,i ev] exp]i5c$ 9 ,tibet4 ,h[ev]1 x _h no effect on ! good relations betwe5 me & ! monks & ,sonam ,ngurbu1 ! ,gov]nor 7,illu/s4 #cbf1 #cge71 :o 0 also a gue/ 9 ! mona/]y1 & _h a high lama f ,*ok*u 7,illu/4 #cee7 9 8 p>ty4 ,! ,gov]nor gave u z mu* tsamba1 rice1 & sug> z w\ld at a p9* la/ u till we came to ,tok*51 & he receiv$ a wat* 9 ex*ange4 ,( money we _h only a few rupees left4 ,i _h nev] be5 9 su* /raits be=e4 ,if ,i ev] meet ,abdul ,k]im aga91 ,i ?\ght1 he %all get :at he des]ves & a little m4 ,:5 we set up our t5ts on ! la/ day ( ,june on ! ,r>tse pla91 s\? ( ,selipuk1 ,lobsang ann\nc$ at dusk t f\r m5 & f\r mules 7 com+ to ! camp4 ,!y 7 ,abdul ,k]im1 ,s$ik1 ,gaff>1 & a ,tibetan4 ,our c>avan ba%i came fright5$ & confus$ to my t5t1 & ,i ?\ght x bett] t he %\ld give an acc\nt ( 8 /ew>d%ip be=e ,i pass$ s5t5ce on him4 ,he report$ t !y _h come to ! appo9t$ r5dezv\s at ! prop] "t1 b !re he _h be5 h>d press$ by six ,govas--,gova ,p>vang among !m1 :o took ! lead1 & ord]$ !m to leave ! place at once & g on to ! ,t>ok-tso4 ,z !y _h no passport f ,lhasa1 !y c\ld expect no m]cy1 he said4 ,s !y betook !mselves to ! nor!rn %ore ( ! ,t>ok-tso1 :]e !y wait$ f\rte5 days1 z ! graz+ 0 good & no "o int]f]$ ) !m4 ,!y he>d contradictory reports ab\t u4 ,at l5g? a nomad di$ on ! lake %ore1 & a monk f ,lunk>-gompa 0 summon$ to 8 t5t to read ! pray]s = ! dead4 ,!y met ?is man1 & he said t we _h pass$ ! mona/]y n9e days previ\sly4 ,!n !y pack$ up all _! belong+s1 int5d+ to hurry aft] u next morn+4 ,b horse-/eal]s _h come 9 ! night & /ol5 my grey ,tikze horse & a mule f ,saka-dzong4 ,?is ev5t co/ !m ?ree days1 b !y nev] recov]$ ! /ol5 animals4 ,:ile ,su51 ,abdullah1 ,abdul ,rasak1 & ,sonam ,kun*uk foll[$ sl[ly1 ! ?ree o!rs made =c$ m>*es we/w>ds1 & n[ at la/ !y 7 "h & _h all our ca% ) !m4 ,abdul ,k]im escap$ ) a slight reprim&1 b ,i aft]w>ds he>d ! o!r m5 badg]+ him4 ,we f\nd ! o!rs 9 ,kyangrang1 & s ! :ole /r5g? ( ! company1 ?irte5 m51 0 complete :51 on ,july #h1 we cross$ ! pass ,d+-la 7,illu/4 #bac71 #ai1cjh feet high1 ! l(tie/ pass we _h cross$ 9 all ?is j\rney 9 ,tibet1 & on pa/ ! small lake ,argok-tso1 :i* lies 9 ! bas9 ( ! ,aong-tsangpo2 & on ,july #ab we cross$ ! ,surnge-la 7#ag1caj feet74 ,two days lat] we came to ,tok*51 :]e ano!r political entanglem5t deta9$ u n9e days4 ,b ,i _c /ay to give an acc\nt ( x1 = ,i rea*$ ! limit ( ! space all[$ me at ,*apt] ,,lxiv41 & my publi%] is impati5t4 ,,*apt] ,,lxxiii ,,! ,,trans-,,himalaya ,on ! map ( ! ,jesuits1 n[ two hundr$ ye>s old 7,d',anville1 #agcc7 7,map #b71 a s]ies ( m\nta9s runs on ! nor? side ( ! upp] ,brahmaputra1 be>+ f ea/ to we/ ! foll[+ names3 ,y\c1 ,l>k91 ,t*im\ran ,coran1 ,t*ompa1 ,lop1 ,t*\r1 ,takra concla1 ,k5taisse 7,kailas7 ,latatsi1 etc4 ,^! m\nta9s & ranges h nev] be5 transf]r$ to mod]n maps ( ,tibet1 probably because geograph]s reg>d$ ! mat]ial collect$ by tra9$ ,tibetans z too unreliable & indef9ite4 ,yet ^! *a9s ( m\nta9s are no?+ else b ! ,trans-,himalaya1 ?\gh ! repres5tation is confus$ & inexact4 ,:5 ,brian ,hodgson 9 8 map ( s\!rn ,tibet 7,selections f ! ,records ( ! ,gov]nm5t ( ,b5gal1 ,no4 xxvii471 "h reproduc$ 9 facsimile 7,map #c71 drew a huge unbrok5 *a9 nor? (1 & p>allel to1 ! ,tsangpo1 he took a /ep :i* c\ld only be bas$ on ! ,jesuits' map & ! data he receiv$ 9 ! ye> #ahdc f ! ,mah>aja ( ,nepal4 ,no d\bt l(ty m\nta9s exi/$ to ! nor? ( ! ,tsangpo--t 0 kn[n to ! ,jesuits ev5 9 ! "t ( ,kang ,hi4 ,b ,hodgson's hypo!tical ,ny5*h5-?angla 7,trans-,himalaya71 :i* he looks ^u z a prolongation ( ! ,k>akorum1 & ! natural b\nd>y betwe5 nor!rn & s\!rn ,tibet1 is by no means an orig9al conception1 & is no advance on previ\s k1 or1 m correctly1 !ory4 ,= already1 9 ! ye> #ahdj1 ,duf\r _h ins]t$ a simil> huge un9t]rupt$ *a9 nor? (1 & p>allel to1 ! ,tsangpo1 on ! map :i* illu/rates ! fam\s description ( ! travels ( ! ,laz>i/ mission>y1 ,fa!r ,huc 7,illu/4 #cha7--,s\v5irs d'un ,voyage dans la ,t>t>ie1 le ,?ibet et la ,*9e1 #ahdd-df4 ,duf\r's map is ev5 bett] ?an ,hodgson's1 = he has adopt$ f ! ,jesuits' map a nor!rn afflu5t to ! ,tsangpo1 pass+ ?r\gh ! great range1 :i*1 l ! ,jesuits1 he calls ,mts4 ,koran4 ,huc & ,gabet 7 probably ! fir/ ,europeans to cross ! ,trans-,himalaya1 & "o wond]s :]e !y made ! passage4 ,probably by ! ,%ang-%ung-la along ! ,mongolian pilgrim road f ,kuku-nor & ,tsaidam to ,lhasa4 ,x is va9 to seek any in=mation on ! subject 9 ,huc's fam\s book4 ,dur+ ! two ye>s ,huc /ay$ 9 ,macao he work$ up ! scanty notes he _h made on 8 j\rney4 ,he m5tions ,burkhan ,bota1 ,%uga1 & ,tang-la1 & also ! l>ge village ,nak*u1 :]e ! c>avans ex*ange _! camels = yaks1 b he says n a ^w ab\t ! pass by :i* he cross$ "o ( ! mightie/ m\nta9 sy/ems ( ! _w4 ,he says1 inde$1 t he w5t ov] a colossal m\nta9 range1 & z its position agre$ ) t ( ! ,mts4 ,koran ( ,duf\r & ! ,jesuits1 he adopts ?is "n1 :i* he c]ta9ly _h nev] he>d on 8 j\rney1 & :i* probably 0 *ang$ on its way f ,tibet to ! ,jesuits' note-books 9 ,pek94 ,all he has to say ( 8 j\rney ov] ! ,trans-,himalaya is conta9$ 9 ! foll[+ s5t5ces3 ,la r\te qui conduit de ,na-,pt*u ,lha-,ssa e/1 en gnral1 rocailleuse et trs-fatigante4 ,qu& on arrive la *ane des monts ,koran1 elle e/ d'une difficult extrme 7ii4 p4 #bda74 ,ano!r attempt to repres5t ! c\rse ( ! ,trans-,himalaya 0 made by ,trelawney ,saund]s 9 8 map ( ,tibet 7,map #f71 :i* is f\nd 9 ,m>kham's ,n>ratives ( ! ,mission ( ,george ,bogle to ,tibet1 & ( ! ,j\rney ( ,?omas ,mann+ to ,lhasa 7,london1 #ahgi71 & 9 ,edw9 ,t4 ,atk9son's ,! ,himalayan ,di/ricts ( ! ,nor?-,we/]n ,prov9ces ( ,india 7,allahabad1 #ahhb74 ,l ,duf\r & ,hodgson1 ,saund]s draws a huge cont9u\s *a9 all ?r\gh ,tibet4 ,= ! we/]n p>ts1 nor? ( ,manas>[>1 & = ! ea/]n1 s\? ( ,t5gri-nor1 he has reli$ on ! c>tography ( ! pundits2 ! re/1 betwe5 #hb & #hi ,e4 long41 is p>tly a reproduction ( ! ,jesuits' map1 p>tly pure fancy1 & has n ! remote/ resemblance to ! reality1 z w be app>5t f a comp>ison ( ,saund]s' map ) m9e4 ,i w only po9t out t ! ,trans-,himalaya consi/s n ( "o *a9 b ( _m1 & t ! s\rce ( ! ,*aktak-tsangpo lies to ! s\?1 n to ! nor? ( ! pr9cipal "o4 ,all ! c5tral & l>ge/ "p ( ! sy/em1 :i* ,i explor$1 is !re=e q incorrect on ,saund]s' map4 ,9 ! ye> #ahfg ,colonel ,montgom]ie 7,illu/4 #chj7 s5t out ?ree pundits = ! purpose ( compil+ a map ( ! c\ntry nor? ( ,manas>[>4 ,"o ( !m 0 ! incomp>able & wond]ful ,na9 ,s+1 ano!r 0 ! man :o 0 at ,yia*an prev5t$ f discov]+ ! s\rce ( ! ,indus4 ,on _! way to ,tok-jalung !y cross$ ! ,trans-,himalaya at ! ,jukti-la1 :i* !y call$ ,gugti-la1 assign+ to x a height ( #ai1ejj feet3 ,i f\nd its height 0 #ai1jgj feet4 ,mr4 ,calv]t cross$ ! same pass a ye> be=e me4 ,on _! return !y cross$ ! ,trans-,himalaya by foll[+ ! ea/]n bran* ( ! ,indus d[n to :]e x breaks ?r\gh ! range & unites ) ! ,g>tok bran*4 ,a pundit also w5t betwe5 ,manas>[> & ,tok-jalung1 pa/ ! ,ruldap-tso--a "n & lake ,i s\ght = ea/ & we/ 9 va91 b ,i w n !re=e d5y its exi/5ce4 ,moreov]1 ( ?is pundit's r\te ,i h no precise details4 ,x seems likely t he cross$ ! ,trans-,himalaya by a pass call$ ,s>-lung4 ,on ,janu>y #h1 #ahgb1 "o ( ,montgom]ie's explor]s1 a "y tra9$ ,tibetan1 travell$ ov] ! ,trans-,himalaya by ! ,khalamba-la1 #ag1bjj feet high4 ,9 ,m>kham's acc\nt ( ?is j\rney x is said t he return$ across ! m\nta9s by ! ,dhok-la1 ?\gh ! actual wat]-p>t+ pass he came to 0 mu* m probably ! ,dam-l>g5-la4 ,?is pass 0 cross$ ! foll[+ ye> 7#ahgc7 by ,na9 ,s+ on 8 fam\s j\rney f ,leh to ,lhasa1 :i* is describ$ s consci5ti\sly by ,colonel ,sir ,h5ry ,trott]4 ,na9 ,s+ assigns to ,dam-langr5-la a height ( #af1ijj feet4 ,! great pundit ,a4 ,k41 or ,kri%na1 :o cont5ds ) ,na9 ,s+ = ! =emo/ place1 cross$ ! mo/ ea/]ly p>ts ( ! ,trans-,himalaya on 8 j\rney 9 #ahha1 & m probably by ! pass ,%i>-gang-la ?an ! ,nub-kong-la1 z ,i h already sugge/$2 b f 8 map x is difficult to decide :e!r ! ,%i>-gang-la is a divid+ pass ( ! fir/ rank or n4 ,9 any case1 x is situat$ on ! *a9 :i* =ms ! wat]%$ betwe5 ! ,salw9 & ! ,brahmaputra1 & is und\bt$ly an imm$iate cont9uation ( ! ,ni5-*5-tang-la1 or ,trans-,himalaya4 ,a simil> assumption is also made by ,colonel ,s4 ,g4 ,burr>d 9 8 & ,hayd5's admirable "w1 ,a ,sket* ( ! ,geography & ,geology ( ! ,himalaya ,m\nta9s & ,tibet 7,calcutta1 #aijg74 ,on map xvii4 9 ?is "w ,burr>d has1 q rightly 9 my op9ion1 ins]t$ ! prolongation ( ! range1 ?\gh we h no sure data ab\t its c\rse4 ,illu/ration3 #chj4 ,,colonel ,t4 ,g4 ,,montgom]ie4 ,illu/ration3 #cha4 ,,abb ,,huc4 ,= ! portrait ( ,t4 ,g4 ,montgom]ie my ?anks are due to ! ,colonel's wid[1 & = t ( ,pre ,huc1 probably n publi%$ be=e1 to ,mr4 ,e4 ,s*w>tz1 ,p>is4 ,?us we f9d t aft] ,fa!r ,huc sev]al ( ,montgom]ie's & ,trott]'s pundits1 z well z ,mr4 ,calv]t 9 ! ye> #aijf1 cross$ ! ,trans-,himalaya 9 ,tibet4 ,s f> z ,i "k1 !re are only two m names to be add$ to ^!--namely1 ,littl$ale1 :o on 8 bold j\rney 9 #ahid-ie pass$ ov] ! sy/em by ! pass ,gur+-la 7#ai1ehg feet71 & ,c\nt de ,lesda91 :o cross$ x by ! ,khalamba-la 9 #aije4 ,bo? describe ! magnific5t spectacle ,ni5-*5-tang-la pres5ts f ,t5gri-nor1 b ! latt] add$ no?+ to our k ( ! ,trans-,himalaya1 = he made use ( ! same pass1 ! ,khalamba-la1 z ,montgom]ie's pundit4 ,9 8 n>rative1 ,voyage au ,?ibet1 p> la ,mongolie de ,pk9 aux ,indes1 he m5tions n a s+le pass1 mu* less its "n4 ,b he foll[$ ! we/]n %ore ( ,t5gri-nor1 & he says 7p4 #cdj73 ,des massifs de montagnes trs durs et absolum5t en*evtrs =mai5t un ob/acle insurmontable4 ,en consqu5ce1 je rsolus de suivre le premi] c\rs d'eau1 dont la direction f]ait prsum] qu'il se dirigeait v]s le ,brahmap\tra4 ,c'e/ a9si que n\s *em9mes plusieurs j\rs en suivant les bords d'une rivire sans cesse grossissante1 appele ,*ang-*u4444 ,?is riv] is ! ,%ang-*u1 :i* comes f ! ,khalamba-la4 ,two ,fr5*m5 & two ,engli%m5 h1 !n1 cross$ ! ,trans-,himalaya be=e me1 besides half a doz5 pundits4 ,f>!r we/ 9 ,engli% t]ritory innum]able ,europeans h pass$ ov] ! sy/em1 especially by ! ,*ang-la1 :]e ,i surm\nt$ x ?ree times4 ,betwe5 ! ,indus & ! ,panggong-tso ,i travell$ ov] ! sy/em on ,novemb] #bb1 #aijg1 by ! easy pass ,tsake-la4 ,an extraord9>ily valuable contribution to ! k ( ! ,trans-,himalaya 0 af=d$ u by ,ryd] & ,wood on _! rem>kable j\rney up ! ,brahmaputra 9 ! ye> #aijd4 ,!y _h no opportunity ( cross+ ! sy/em1 or ev5 ( p5etrat+ a day's j\rney into ! s\!rn transv]se valleys1 b !y took be>+s ( all ! summits visible f _! r\te4 ,& "s ( ^!1 p>ticul>ly ,lunpo-gangri1 are among ! v highe/ :i*1 "u a mantle ( et]nal sn[1 rise up f ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,! absolutely highe/ is1 accord+ to ,ryd]1 #bc1bee feet1 & is !re=e little inf]ior to ,ni5-*5-tang-la ) its #bc1ijj feet4 ,ryd] & ,burr>d took x = grant$ t ^! summits /ood on a s+le cont9u\s range1 :i* !y repres5t on _! map z ! nor!rn wat]%$ ( ! ,brahmaputra4 ,9 8 text 7p4 #ie71 h[ev]1 ,burr>d rightly po9ts out t ?is *a91 :i* he calls ! ,kailas ,range1 is n ! wat]%$1 = 9 "s places x is brok5 ?r\gh by afflu5ts f ! nor?4 ,burr>d commits ! same mi/ake z ,duf\r1 ,hodgson1 ,saund]s1 & ,atk9son1 9 assum+ ! exi/5ce ( a s+le cont9u\s range to ! nor? ( ! ,tsangpo4 ,i pond]$ mu* myself ov] ?is problem1 & on a g5]al map ( ! ranges ( ,tibet 7#aije7 ,i ins]t$ two ranges nor? ( ! ,tsangpo1 a conception 9 accordance ) ,f4 ,gr5>d's 9 8 ,c>te de l',asie ,c5trale ( ! ye> #ahii4 ,a hi/ory ( geographical exploration 9 a region s little kn[n z ! ,trans-,himalaya mu/ naturally be exce$+ %ort & meagre4 ,) all my rese>*es ,i h n be5 able to discov] any o!r pr$ecessors ?an ^? already m5tion$--t is1 9 ^? p>ts ( ! sy/em :i* lie )9 ! b\nds ( ,tibet--& n a s+le "o 9 ! c5tral regions ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,t su* an ext5sive region z s\!rn ,tibet has be5 q unkn[n till n[1 ?\gh x lies close to ! ,indian fronti]1 has giv5 rise to mu* reasonable a/oni%m5t1 & 9 _m circles argum5ts & pro(s1 bas$ on m or less apocryphal records & vague hypo!ses1 h be5 labori\sly s\ght out to prove t my discov]ies h n ! priority claim$ = !m4 ,! maps ,i h reproduc$ 9 facsimile1 :5 c>efully comp>$ ) my own maps1 r5d] any discussion on my "p q sup]flu\s4 ,illu/ration3 #chb4 ,alt> ,table ) ,images ( ,gods 9 ,mangnang-gompa4 ,wat]-col\r ,sket* by ! ,au?or4 ,i _c1 h[ev]1 pass ov] 9 sil5ce an ins9uation t ! discov]ies ,i h made are to be f\nd indicat$ on ! fam\s wall-maps 9 ! ,doge's ,palace at ,v5ice4 ,! ,*ief ,libr>ian ( ! ,royal ,libr>y 9 ,/ockholm1 ,dr4 ,e4 ,w4 ,dahlgr51 writes 9 a lett] to me3 ,only ! grosse/ ignorance & sill9ess c f9d on ^! maps traces ( any discov]ies previ\s to y\rs4 ,be=e my return home ,pr(essor ,mittag-,leffl]1 ,director ( ! ma!matical s*ool 9 ! ,univ]sity ( ,/ockholm1 _h s5t = photographs ( ^! maps ) a v detail$ description1 & he has k9dly plac$ ?is mat]ial at my disposal4 ,?is book is n ! place 9 :i* to publi% x1 &1 besides1 ! foll[+ /atem5t :i* ,dr4 ,dahlgr5 has oblig+ly drawn up at my reque/ makes all fur!r comm5t unnecess>y3 ,! ,wall-,maps 9 ! ,sala dello ,scudo1 9 ! ,doge's ,palace at ,v5ice ,^! maps1 f\r 9 numb]1 7 con/ruct$ by ! not$ c>tograph] ,giacomo ,ga/aldi 9 ! middle ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 to take ! place ( old] maps :i* 7 de/roy$ by fire 9 ! ye> #adhc2 at lea/1 x may be safely assum$ t two ( !m1 ^? ( ,ea/ ,asia & ,africa1 are ! "w ( ,ga/aldi4 ,! maps repres5t3 #a4 ,asia f ! m\? ( ! ,indus ea/w>ds to ,*9a & ,japan1 z well z ! ,pacific ,ocean & "p ( ,am]ica4 #b4 ,asia f ,asia ,m9or to ,india 7,ka%mir74 #c4 ,africa4 #d4 ,italy4 ,only maps ,nos4 #a & #b h any int]e/ = ,sv5 ,h$94 ,!y correspond completely ) ! photographs procur$ by ,pr(essor ,mittag-,leffl]4 ,all ! maps 7 re/or$ by ,francisco ,grisell9i ab\t ! middle ( ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,9 map ,no4 #b great alt]ations seem to h be5 made 9 geographical details z well z 9 ! text & 9 ! decoration4 ,z ! map ext5ds no f>!r ea/ ?an ,ka%mir x has1 ( c\rse1 no connection ) ,sv5 ,h$9's discov]ies4 ,map ,no4 #a1 on ! o!r h&1 has 9 _m ess5tial respects pres]v$ its orig9al "*4 ,we c und\bt$ly =m a good notion ( its orig9al appe>ance by comp>+ x ) ! maps 9 ,ramusio's "w ,delle ,navigazioni e ,viaggi 7#bnd ,edition1 ,v5ice1 #aeed7 & ) ,ga/aldi's ,t]cia ,p>te dell' ,asia 7,v5ice1 #aefa74 ,! resemblance to ! =m] is v /rik+4 ,9 ^! maps1 z 9 ! wall-maps1 ! s\? is to ! top4 ,on all ^! maps !re is v great confusion 9 ! repres5tation ( ! riv] sy/ems ( ! ,ganges & ! ,brahmaputra4 ,! m\nta9s are drawn 9 at r&om1 & ev5 ! ,himalayas _c be id5tifi$ ) complete c]ta9ty1 mu* less ! ranges ( ,c5tral ,asia4 ,z ! map 0 *iefly design$ to illu/rate ! travels ( ,m>co ,polo1 x naturally gives no in=mation ab\t c\ntries he did n visit4 ,e4 ,w4 ,,dahlgr54 ,fa!r ,huc concludes ! acc\nt ( 8 j\rney ) ! foll[+ rem>kable words3 ,mais il ne suffit pas t\j\rs du zle de l'criva9 p\r faire connatre des contres o il n'a jamais mis le pi$4 crire un ,voyage en ,*9e aprs quelques prom5ades aux factories de ,canton et aux environs de ,macao1 c'e/ peut-tre s'expos] beauc\p p>l] de *ose qu'on ne connat pas suffisamm5t 444 il e/ en gnral assez difficile de faire des dc\v]tes dans un pays sans y avoir pntr4 ,x 0 ) su* tru?s 9 my m9d t ,i began ! j\rney describ$ 9 ?is book1 ! object ( :i* 0 t set =? by ,sir ,clem5ts ,m>kham1 :5 9 connection ) ,littl$ale's la/ j\rney he made ! foll[+ /atem5t 7,geographical ,j\rnal1 vol4 vii4 p4 #dhb73 ,9 ! :ole l5g? f ,t5gri-nor to ! ,m>iam-la pass no "o has cross$ !m 7! ,trans-,himalaya71 s f> z we "k 444 & ,i believe no?+ 9 ,asia is ( great] geographical importance ?an ! exploration ( ?is range ( m\nta9s4 ,x is n = me to decide h[ f> ,i h a*iev$ my aim1 b :5 ,i pass$ ov] ! ,trans-,himalaya = ! eigh? "t at ! ,surnge-la1 ,i _h at lea/ ! satisfaction ( see+ all ! old hypo!ses fall d[n l a h\se ( c>ds1 & a new gr\nd-plan laid d[n on ! map ( ,asia1 :]e be=e ! blank pat* yawn$ ) its allur+ ,unexplor$4 ,illu/ration3 #chc4 ,,! ,,au?or ,,9 ,,tibetan ,,co/ume ,,at ,,! ,,mission ,,/ation ,,9 ,,poo4 ,photograph by ! ,rev4 ,mr4 ,m>x4 ,i h no space "h = a complete monograph ( ! ,trans-,himalaya1 or1 inde$1 ! mat]ial = x1 until ! be>+s & heights ( ! peaks h be5 work$ out1 ! rock specim5s id5tifi$1 & a detail$ map con/ruct$ f ! %eets ,i drew4 ,x w take a c\ple ( ye>s to "w up ! mat]ial4 ,i w "h only communicate "s g5]al facts1 & w beg9 by cit+ ! passes ( fir/ rank z wat]%$s1 app5d+ ! names ( ! travell]s :o h cross$ "s ( !m3 ,%i>-gang-la ,kri%na1 #ahha ,%ang-%ung-la ,huc1 #ahde ,dam-l>g5-la ,na9 ,s+1 #ahgc #af1ijc feet4 ,gur+-la ,littl$ale1 #ahie #ai1ehg ,tsebo-la ,%ugu-la ,khalamba-la ,pundit1 #ahgb #ag1bjj ,d4 de ,lesda91 #aije ,sela-la ,h$91 #aijg #ah1jfd ,*ang-la-,pod-la ,h$91 #aijg #ah1bhd ,%a-la ,angd5-la ,h$91 #aijg #ah1ead ,tsalam-nakta-la ,dombe-la ,nakbo-kongdo-la ,sangmo-b]tik-la ,h$91 #aijh #ai1jie ,saggo-la ,di*a-la ,samye-la ,h$91 #aijh #ah1acc ,dsalung-la ,lungm>-la ,pe*5-la ,lungnak-la ,yor-la ,ganglung-la ,m5-la ,p$ang-la ,gebbyi-la ,yilung-la ,t>kyang-la ,surnge-la ,pundit8 ,h$91 #aijh #ag1caj feet ,tseti-la*5-la ,h$91 #aijg #ag1icc ,jukti-la ,na9 ,s+1 #ahfg ,d4 ,calv]t1 #aijf ,d4 ,h$91 #aijg #ai1jgj ,x has1 !n1 be5 my lot to cross eight ,trans-,himalayan passes1 :ile sev5 h be5 cross$ by o!r travell]s4 ,sev5 ( my passes 7 unkn[n be=e4 ,( ! o!rs ,i h se5 ! ,di*a-la & ,m5-la1 :ile ( ! rema9d] ,i h only ga!r$ oral in=mation4 ,! ,jukti-la is ! wat]%$ betwe5 ! two headwat]s ( ! ,indus1 ! ,tseti-la*5-la betwe5 ! ,sutlej & ! ,indus1 ! ,surnge-la betwe5 ! ,sutlej & ! ,ngangl>+-tso4 ,%i>-gang-la & ,%ang-%ung-la lie on ! wat]%$ betwe5 ! ,salw9 & ! ,brahmaputra4 ,all ! o!rs lie on ! great cont95tal wat]%$ betwe5 ! ocean & ! isolat$ dra9age ( ! plateau4 ,x appe>s f ! li/ t all ! passes cross$ be=e by ,europeans & pundits belong to ! ea/]n & we/]n p>ts ( ! sy/em4 ,betwe5 ! ,khalamba-la & ! ,surnge-la ! ,trans-,himalaya _h n be5 cross$ 9 a s+le l9e1 & x 0 exactly betwe5 ^! two passes t ! great :ite space 0 situat$4 ,all t 0 kn[n ( x 0 ! peaks fix$ by ,ryd] & ,wood1 & "s summits se5 by ,na9 ,s+ f ! nor?4 ,if ! ,pundit's j\rney betwe5 ,manas>[> & ,ruldap-tso be disreg>d$1 ( :i* ,i h no in=mation1 ! int]val betwe5 ! ,khalamba-la & ! ,jukti-la measures #eij miles1 or ab\t z f> z f ,l9kp+ to ,hap>&a1 or f ,london to ,dorno* ,fir?4 ,& betwe5 ^! limits lie all ! passes by cross+ :i* ,i 0 able to trace ! c\rse ( ! ,trans-,himalaya1 & prove t its kn[n ea/]n & we/]n sections are connect$ & belong to ! same m\nta9 sy/em1 & t ?is sy/em is "o ( ! l(tie/ & mightie/ 9 ! _w1 only to be comp>$ ) ! ,himalayas1 ! ,k>akorum1 ,arka-tag1 & ,ku5-lun4 ,betwe5 ! ,%i>-gang-la & ,yas91 n f> f ! %>p b5d ( ! ,indus1 its l5g? am\nts to #adjj miles1 b if x c be %[n t ! ,trans-,himalaya m]ges into ! ,h9du-,ku% & cont9ues along ! ,salw91 its l5g? ext5ds to #bejj miles4 ,on ! nor? & s\? its b\nd>ies are %>p & cle>ly def9$2 ! nor!rn is =m$ by ! c5tral lakes discov]$ by ,na9 ,s+ & myself1 & ! s\!rn by ! unhe>d-( ,indus-tsangpo valley4 ,9 bread? x is inf]ior to ! ,himalayas1 & its peaks are l[]1 b ! heights ( ! ,trans-,himalayan passes are consid]ably great] ?an ^? ( ! ,himalayas4 ,! av]age height ( ! five foll[+ ,himalayan passes--,%>-khalep-la1 ,man-da-la1 ,%e-ru-la1 ,no-la & ,kore- or ,photu-la--is #af1gcf feet1 :ile ! av]age height ( my fir/ five ,trans-,himalayan passes is #ah1djj feet4 ,x may be said g5]ally t ! divid+ passes 9 ! ,trans-,himalaya ( ! fir/ rank are #afjj feet high] ?an 9 ! ,himalayas4 ,b ! highe/ peak ( ! ,himalayas1 ,m\nt ,ev]e/1 ) its #bi1jjj1 is #eajj feet high] ?an ! ,ni5-*5-tang-la1 ! culm9at+ po9t1 z f> z we "k4 ,h]e) are connect$ ! diff]5t =ms ( relief pr$om9at+ 9 ! two sy/ems2 ! cre/s ( ! ,trans-,himalaya are flatt]1 its valleys %all[] & broad]1 :ile ! cre/s ( ! ,himalayas are %>p & po9t$1 its valleys deep & mu* erod$4 ,! =m] sy/em is m compact & massive ?an ! latt]1 z we may expect if we rememb] t ! ,himalayas are delug$ by ! precipitation ( ! s\?-we/ monsoon1 & t its wat]s h = untold ?\s&s ( ye>s degrad$ its valleys1 :ile ! ,trans-,himalaya on ! dry plateau c\ntry receives a comp>atively insignificant %>e ( ! monsoon ra94 ,7 x possible to comp>e ! volumes ( ! two sy/ems1 we %\ld no d\bt f9d t ! nor!rn is mu* m massive ?an ! s\!rn1 = su* a comp>ison mu/ proce$ f sea-level1 & ?\gh ! ,trans-,himalaya is ! n>r[] ( ! two1 its asc5t beg9s f heights ( #aj1jjj to #af1jjj feet1 f ! ,tsangpo valley1 :ile ! ,himalayas rise f sea-level or a few hundr$ feet above x4 ,z a wat]%$ ! ,trans-,himalaya occupies a high] & m important place ?an ! ,himalayas4 ,9 ! we/ ! ,himalayas p>ts ! wat]s betwe5 ! ,indus & "s ( its tribut>ies1 & 9 ! ea/ ! sy/em is a divide betwe5 ! ,brahmaputra & ! ,ganges4 ,b e drop ( wat] :i* falls on ! ,himalayas goes d[n to ! ,indian ,ocean4 ,on ! o!r h&1 all ! c5tral ,trans-,himalaya is a wat]%$ betwe5 ! ,indian ,ocean on ! s\? & ! enclos$ dra9age area ( ! plateau depression on ! nor?4 ,only 9 its we/]n section is ! ,trans-,himalaya also a wat]%$ betwe5 ! ,indus & "s ( its "r-h& tribut>ies1 & 9 its ea/]n betwe5 ! ,salw9 & ,brahmaputra4 ,)9 ! b\nd>ies ( ,tibet !re is only "o riv] :i* takes its rise f ! nor!rn flank ( ! ,trans-,himalaya & breaks ?r\gh ! sy/em by a transv]se valley2 b ?is riv] is a lion1 & is call$ by ! ,tibetans ! ,lion riv]1 ! ,s+i-kamba or ,indus4 ,! ,salw9 also spr+s f ! nor!rn flank ( ! sy/em1 b f9ds its way to ! ocean )\t pass+ ?r\gh ! m\nta9s4 ,all ! o!r riv]s ris+ on ! nor!rn slopes1 ( :i* ! ,buptsang-tsangpo & ! ,soma-tsangpo are ! l>ge/1 fl[ into ! undra9$ salt lakes on ! nor?4 ,only 9 ! c5tral p>ts ( ! ,trans-,himalaya1 /ret*+1 h[ev]1 ov] a di/ance ( ne>ly #fjj miles1 does ! cont95tal wat]%$ co9cide ) ! ma9 axis ( ! sy/em1 = to ! we/ ! wat]%$ runs nor?w>ds f ! s\rce ( ! ,indus1 & !n we/w>ds1 s z to leave ! ,panggong-tso )9 ! isolat$ dra9age bas9 ( ,tibet1 & 9 ! ea/ runs nor?w>ds f ! region betwe5 ! s\rce /reams ( ! ,salw9 & ,t5gri-nor4 ,i h call$ ?is book ,trans-,himalaya1 because ! incid5ts & adv5tures describ$ 9 ^! two volumes occurr$ 9 ?is huge m\nta9 sy/em ly+ to ! nor? ( ! ,tsangpo & 9 ! c\ntry to ! nor? & s\? ( x4 ,:5 ,i fir/ cross$ ! divid+ range at ! ,sela-la ,i ?\ght ( reta9+ ! "n ,hodgson _h assign$ to x1 t is1 ,ni5-*5-tang-la1 & ,i did n *ange my m9d aft] cross+ ! ,*ang-la-,pod-la & ,angd5-la1 = ^! ?ree passes lie on "o & ! same range1 :i* on ! s\!rn %ore ( ,t5gri-nor is call$ ,ni5-*5-tang-la4 ,aft] cross+ ! ,tseti-la*5-la & ! ,jukti-la ,i suppos$ t ^! passes lay on ! we/]n prolongation ( ! ,ni5-*5-tang-la1 & t ! conception ( ,hodgson1 ,saund]s1 ,atk9son1 ,burr>d1 & ,ryd] 0 correct4 ,b aft] ! second j\rney "r ?r\gh ,tibet1 & aft] ,i _h cross$ ,bongba 9 sev]al directions & f\nd t !re 0 no "q ( a s+le cont9u\s range1 b t a :ole collection ( ranges q indep5d5t ( "o ano!r exi/$1 ,i p]ceiv$ t ! "n ,ni5-*5-tang-la1 :i* only d5otes "o ( all ^! ranges1 c\ld n be giv5 to ! :ole sy/em4 ,equally inappropriate w\ld be ! names ,lunpo-gangri1 ,kam*ung-gangri1 ,t>go-gangri1 or any o!r local "n4 ,saund]s' ,gangri ,m\nta9s ,i consid] /ill m unsuitable1 = e m\nta9 9 ,tibet clo!d ) et]nal sn[ is call$ a gangri1 & ! "n 9 ?is connection w\ld h a mean+less s\nd4 ,nei!r c\ld ,i accept ,burr>d's ,! ,kailas ,range4 ,a "n mu/ be f\nd suit$ to ! :ole ( ?is intimately connect$ association ( m\nta9 ranges1 a geographical conception :i* w\ld leave no room = misund]/&+1 & ,i decid$ to call ! :ole sy/em1 ! connection & cont9uity ( :i* ,i _h succe$$ 9 prov+1 ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,among ,engli% geograph]s _m h approv$ ( ?is "n & an equal numb] h disapprov$4 ,to ! latt] category belongs ,colonel ,burr>d1 :o po9ts out t = "s ye>s back all ! regions ly+ beyond ! ,himalayas h be5 call$ ,trans-,himalayan4 ,& 9 a lett] he has lately writt5 to me he says3 ,pupils ( ,montgom]ie naturally ask :y an old ^w %\ld be giv5 a new mean+ :5 x is possible to inv5t any numb] ( new names = newly discov]$ m\nta9s4 ,i d n see t x is necess>y to give an important "n to newly discov]$ m\nta9s4 ,a new "n w become important because ( ! m\nta9s to :i* x is atta*$1 & y\r m\nta9s w\ld h r5d]$ any new "n important4 ,illu/ration3 #chd4 ,,! ,,la/ ,,memb]s ,,( ,,! ,,la/ ,,exp$ition ,,9 ,,poo4 ,i _c %>e ,colonel ,burr>d's view1 = ,i answ] t j because ( ! circum/ance t ,montgom]ie's pupils1 (ficials ( ! ,survey ( ,india & pundits1 h = fifty ye>s & m call$ ! c\ntry nor? ( ! ,himalayas ,! ,trans-,himalayan regions1 x 0 incumb5t on me n to reject ?is "n = ! m\nta9 sy/em :i* c be no?+ else b ! ,trans-,himalaya p> excell5ce4 ,to give a quotation f ! o!r side1 ,i w "h reproduce an expression ( op9ion f ,"l ,curzon1 =m]ly ,vic]oy ( ,india1 ^: k ( ,asia is unsurpass$4 ,9 ! ,geographical ,j\rnal1 ,april #aiji1 he says3 ,alongside ( ?is great discov]y 7,bongba & ,*ok*u7 ,i w\ld place ! trac+ = hundr$s ( miles & ! assurance ( a def9ite orographical exi/5ce to ! mighty m\nta9 palisade or s]ies ( palisades to :i* he has1 9 my op9ion v appropriately1 giv5 ! title ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,?is range has be5 surmis$ to exi/ 9 its entire l5g? = _m ye>s2 x has be5 cross$ at its extremities by ,littl$ale & by native surveyors4 ,b x 0 res]v$ = ,dr4 ,h$9 to trace x on ! spot & to place x ^u ! map 9 its long1 unbrok51 & massive significance4444 ,x is no mean addition to human k t we %\ld realize ! assur$ exi/5ce ( "o ( ! greate/ m\nta9 masses 9 ! _w4 ,z reg>ds ! "n :i* ,dr4 ,h$9 has giv5 to x1 ,i w only say t ! desid]ata = ! title ( a new & mom5t\s geographical discov]y appe> to be ^!3 7#a7 t ! "n %\ld if possible be giv5 by ! pr9cipal discov]]2 7#b7 t x %\ld n be unpron\nceable1 unwriteable1 ov]-recondite1 or obscure2 7#c7 t x %\ld if possible possess "s descriptive value2 & 7#d7 %\ld n violate any ackn[l$g$ canons ( geographical nom5clature4 ,! "n ,trans-,himalaya comb9es all ^! advantages1 & x has a direct ,c5tral ,asian analogy 9 ! ,trans-,alai1 :i* is a range ( m\nta9s /&+ 9 ! same relation to ! ,alai t ,trans-,himalaya w d to ,himalaya4 ,i am n 9 ! lea/ impress$ by ! fact t ! "n 0 once giv5 to ano!r range1 :]e its unsuitability secur$ its e>ly ext9ction4 ,any attempts to sub/itute ano!r title on ! pres5t occasion w1 9 my op9ion1 be =$oom$ to failure4 ,my long j\rney backw>ds & =w>ds ov] ! ,trans-,himalaya _c be reg>d$ z m ?an a cursory & defective reconnaissance ( a c\ntry hi!rto unkn[n4 ,x is easi] to g to ,lhasa ) a =ce arm$ to ! tee?1 & %oot d[n ! ,tibetans l pheasants if !y /& 9 ! way1 ?an to cross ,tibet 9 all directions = two long ye>s ) f\r ,gov]nm5ts & all ! au?orities ( ! l& z oppon5ts1 twelve poor ,ladakis z companions1 & n a s+le man z escort4 ,x is no m]it ( m9e t ,i 0 long able to ma9ta9 a position :i* f ! fir/ seem$ unt5able4 ,! same lucky /> look$ d[n1 z (t5 be=e1 on my lonely c\rse ?r\gh va/ ,asia1 & x is tw5ty-f\r ye>s s9ce ,i fir/ took up my pilgrim /aff4 ,i h be5 able to foll[ & lay d[n only ! *ief geographical l9es2 betwe5 my r\tes _m blank spaces are /ill left1 & !re is suffici5t detail$ "w = g5]ations ( explor]s & travell]s m ?or\ghly prep>$ & bett] equipp$ ?an myself4 ,g1 !n1 out into ! _w1 ?\ r++ & sonor\s "n = "o ( ! _w's mightie/ m\nta9 sy/ems1 & f9d ?y way into geographical text-books1 & rem9d *ildr5 9 ! s*ools ( ! sn[-cr[n$ summits on ! ,ro( ( ! ,_w1 among :i* ! monsoon /orms h sung _! deaf5+ *orus s9ce ! beg9n+4 ,z long z ,i live1 my pr\de/ memories1 l royal eagles1 w so> r\nd ! cold desolate crags ( ! ,trans-,himalaya4 ,,*apt] ,,lxxiv ,,simla ,l a troop ( begg>s & knights ( ! road my twelve s]vants & ,i left ,tok*5 on ,july #bd4 ,we _h /ay$ !re n9e days ) no?+ to d b wat* ! monsoon ra91 :i* ,i _h incauti\sly promis$ ! natives1 pelt+ d[n on ! hills4 ,! au?orities ( ! place insi/$ ?is "t t1 z we 7 n furni%$ ) a passport f ,lhasa1 we _h no "r to make use ( ! great high-road to ,ladak1 b mu/ turn back to ! int]ior ( ,tibet :5ce we _h come4 ,if ,i _h n already _h en\gh ( ! great blank1 ,i w\ld h agre$ to _! dem& ) pleasure1 b ,i 0 n[ we>y & long$ = home1 & z !y refus$ ! assi/ance & ! transport facilities we requir$1 we set out on foot ) ! baggage on our la/ t5 horses & mules4 ,i _h /ill ! :ite horse f ,kamba ,ts5am's t5t at my disposal4 ,we _h no escort1 = ! au?orities wi%$ to be q cle> ( blame 9 case !y 7 call$ to acc\nt4 ,by ! holy lake1 :]e we foll[$ ! nor!rn %ore by kn[n ways1 we at l5g? f\nd a tramp :o (f]$ to %[ u ! way to ! ,totl+ mona/]y4 ,9 ,langbo-nan ,i visit$ ha/ily ! "y abbot1 z sympa!tic & good-natur$ z ! ye> be=e1 & at ,*iu-gompa we met our old fri5d ,tundup ,lama1 fretful1 melan*oly1 & we>y ( 8 lonely cloi/] life4 ,l>ge /reams n[ empti$ _! wat] into bo? lakes1 & ) a feel+ ( regret ,i left aga9 ! sc5e ( s _m preci\s memories4 ,be=e we came to ! mona/]y ( ,tirtapuri we _h to cross sev]al ( ! riv]s :i* br+ _! tribute f ! ,trans-,himalaya to ! ,sutlej4 ,?ree ( !m 7 enorm\sly swoll5 aft] ! cont9u\s ra9s1 & roll$ _! volumes ( greyi%-br[n foam+ wat] ov] trea*]\s blocks4 ,x boil$ & see!d betwe5 ! cliffs1 & x c>ri$ along & ov]turn$ ! slipp]y b\ld]s4 ,h[ ,i trembl$ 9 mortal anxiety le/ ! h>ve/ s labori\sly ga!r$ 9 ! la/ long w9t] %\ld all be lo/ by a s+le false /ep4 ,we came to ! temple ( ,tirtapuri 9 p\r+ ra94 ,lobsang1 ,gulam1 ,kutus1 ,tubges1 ,su51 & ,kun*uk 7 to accompany me h5ce to ,simla1 b ,abdul ,k]im & ! o!r five receiv$ _! pay & gratuities1 & took _! way home to ,leh ?r\gh ,g>tok4 ,i did n "k ! road to ,simla1 b on ! map x seem$ to be ne>] ?an to ,ladak1 & !re=e ,i expect$ t my p>ty w\ld arrive fir/ at its de/9ation4 ,b ?is road is v wild & romantic1 & ! l& is deeply excavat$ by ! afflu5ts ( ! ,sutlej1 & "o might imag9e t "o _h sudd5ly be5 transport$ to ! caons ( ! ,colorado4 ,"o day we m>*$ rapidly up an asc5t ( #cjjj feet1 & ! next we w5t d[n z f>1 s t ! di/ance 0 at lea/ d\ble z great z x appe>$ on ! map1 & ,abdul ,k]im rea*$ ,leh long be=e ,i 0 ne> ,simla4 ,!re=e ! fir/ news ( u came f him1 & n f myself1 & 9 "s qu>t]s ! wor/ fe>s 7 ent]ta9$ = my safety4 ,x seem$ /range t my s]vants rea*$ _! home safe & s\nd :ile ,i myself 0 /ill miss+4 ,illu/ration3 #che4 ,,my ,,puppy4 ,illu/ration3 #chf4 ,,takk> ,,9 ,,8 ,,new ,,home ,,) ,,! ,,mission>ies ,,9 ,,poo4 ,we p>t$ ) floods ( te>s on ,augu/ #a1 & my p>ty travell$ pa/ ! ?ree mona/]ies1 ,dongbo1 ,dava1 & ,mangnang 7,illu/4 #chb71 & came to ,totl+-gompa on ! #ac?1 ne> :i* ,fa!r ,&rade1 ?ree hundr$ ye>s ago1 lodg$ 9 ! n[ decay$ t[n ( ,tsap>ang4 ,"h ,i met ! ,h9du doctor ,mohanlal1 :o gave me ! fir/ news ( ! out] _w4 ,?r\gh him ,i he>d1 ) deep regret1 ( ! dea? ( ,k+ ,osc>1 :i* _h occurr$ m ?an eight mon?s be=e4 ,mohanlal also in=m$ me ( ! gr[+ unre/ 9 ,india & ( ! anxiety my fri5ds felt on my acc\nt4 ,?akur ,jai ,*& _h be5 in/ruct$ by ! ,indian ,gov]nm5t to sp>e no ef=ts to f9d out :e!r ,i 0 /ill liv+ or n4 ,he _h s5t out "s ,tibetan freeboot]s 9 v>i\s directions1 & promis$ #ej rupees to any "o :o c\ld furni% any c]ta9 in=mation ( my fate--?is is ! price he valu$ me at4 ,abdul ,k]im _h rea*$ ,g>tok 9 ! be/ ( heal?1 & 0 summon$ to ! ,g>pun1 :o exclaim$3 ,y\r ,sahib is a dreadful man2 he w n be satisfi$ until ,i lose my head6 ,old ,hajji ,naz] ,%ah1 :o _h s consci5ti\sly equipp$ my la/ c>avan1 _h di$ ! prec$+ w9t]4 ,:5 we left ,tok*5 on ,july #bd we 7 delight$ at ! ?\ght t we %\ld at e /ep be ne>] to l[] c\ntry & a d5s] & w>m] atmosph]e4 ,a mon? lat] we 7 at a great] height ?an at ,tok*51 & saw ! c\ntry cov]$ ) sn[1 & he>d ! hail patt] on our dilapidat$ t5ts4 ,b at ,%ipki we aga9 set !m up 9 a g>d5 dress$ 9 ! ri* beauty ( summ]1 & he>d ! w9d murmur 9 ! spread+ cr[ns ( ! apricot trees4 ,%ipki is ! la/ village 9 ,tibet4 ,f ?is g>d5 oasis beg9s ! /eep asc5t to ! ,%ipki-la1 :i* is rea*$ aft] atta9+ a height ( six ,eiffel ,t[]s "o ^u ano!r4 ,"h we /ood on ! fronti] betwe5 ,tibet & ,india4 ,i turn$ & let my eyes roam once m ov] ^! awfully desolate & b>r5 m\nta9s :]e my dreams _h be5 realiz$1 & my lucky /> _h %$ a cle>] & m fri5dly light ?an ev] be=e4 ,f>ewell1 home ( wild asses & antelopes1 holy l& ( ! ,ta%i ,lama1 ( ,tso-mavang & ! ,tsangpo1 into ^: my/]i\s valleys ! /rang] has f\nd 8 way only by endur+ two ,arctic w9t]s & by driv+ a flock ( refractory %eep6 ,i seem$ to take f>ewell ( ! be/ ( my y\? & ! f9e/ *apt] 9 ! /ory ( my life4 ,on ,augu/ #bh we encamp$ 9 ! village ( ,poo 7,illu/s4 #chc1 #chd71 & ,i sp5t two memorable days 9 ! hospitable h\se ( ! ,moravian mission>ies4 ,messrs4 ,m>x & ,s*nabel & _! amiable families ov]:elm$ me ) k9dness1 & n[ ,i 0 delug$ ) news f ! out] _w--x 0 l li/5+ to ! break]s on ! coa/ ( ! ocean4 ,i _h n se5 a ,european = m ?an two ye>s1 & ,i look$ myself l a ,tibetan footpad4 ,b ! mission>ies rigg$ me out at once 9 ,european summ] clo!s & set an ,indian helmet on my head4 ,a few days lat] we came to ,kanam-gompa1 :]e ,alex&] ,csoma ,krsi eighty ye>s ago /udi$ ,lamai/ le>n+ z a monk1 & m ?an any "o else communicat$ to ! s*ol>s ( ! ,we/ ! occult my/]ies ( ?is religion4 ,h[ sil5t & quiet our life _h be5 up on ! expanse ( ,*ang-tang6 ,n[ ! dizzy dep?s ( ! valley are fill$ ) ! ro> ( ! fall+ /ream1 & ! ?und] ( ! wat] is re-e*o$ f ! precipit\s cliffs4 ,h[ b>e & scanty 0 ! soil ( ,tibet1 & n[ we li/5 daily to ! :isp] ( mild breezes 9 ! deep d>k conif]\s =e/s t clo! ! slopes ( ! ,himalayas4 ,/ill l[] runs ! road1 /ill w>m] is ! air4 ,my tru/y fri5d1 big %aggy ,takk>1 looks at me ) que/ion+ eyes4 ,he loves n ! summ]'s p]fum$ g>l&s nor ! v>iegat$ zone ( mead[s4 ,he rememb]s ! free life on ! op5 pla9s1 he misses ! fights ) ! wolves ( ! wild]ness1 & he dreams ( ! l& ( ev]la/+ sn[/orms4 ,"o day we saw him dr9k ( a spr+ :i* p\r$ its wat] across ! pa?1 & !n lie d[n 9 ! cool %ade ( ! =e/4 ,he _h done s _m times be=e1 b we %\ld nev] see him repeat x4 ,he turn$ & gallop$ up t[>ds lonely ,tibet4 ,he p>t$ ) sorr[ 9 8 he>t f 8 old ma/]1 ,i knew2 b he ?\ght he w\ld ask ! mission>ies 9 ,poo to s5d me a greet+4 ,"o morn+ he 0 f\nd ly+ outside ! gate to ! c\rt ( ! ,mission-h\se1 &1 true to 8 old habit1 he w\ld let no "o g 9 or out4 ,he 0 hospitably receiv$1 & />t$ a new life ) a *a9 r\nd 8 neck4 ,i /ill receive f "t to "t1 ?r\gh ,mr4 ,m>x1 greet+s f old ,takk>1 :o s fai?fully def5d$ my t5t :5 ,i travell$ 9 disguise ?r\gh 8 own c\ntry 7,illu/4 #chf74 ,illu/ration3 #chg4 ,,simla4 ,9 ! ,club des ,asiatiques 9 ,p>is ,i once d9$ ) ,madame ,massieu1 :o has accompli%$ s _m wond]ful j\rneys 9 ,asia4 ,rol& ,bonap>te & ,h5ry ( ,orlans 7 pres5t1 z ,i vividly rememb]$ :5 on ,septemb] #g ,i met ! f>-travell$ ,p>isian lady 9 ! /ation-h\se ( ,t>&a4 ,we _h mu* to talk ab\t :5 we contribut$ to ! co/ ( a common d9n]4 ,unt\*$ by ye>s1 y\?ful & en?usia/ic1 ,madame ,massieu aft]w>ds und]took a bold j\rney to ,khatm&u4 ,) gr[+ uneas9ess ,i approa*$ ! h\r :51 aft] ne>ly a ye>'s complete sil5ce1 ,i 0 aga9 to receive lett]s f home1 & ,i wond]$ :e!r ,i %\ld break !m op5 & read !m )\t any cause = sorr[4 ,! po/ met me at ,gaura on ,septemb] #i4 ,i read all ! ev5+1 all night1 & all ! foll[+ day1 & ,i 0 able to take ! la/ days' j\rney to ,simla 9 com=t1 = ,i 0 sp>$ any unt[>d news & knew t all 0 well at home4 ,n[ ! w9d :isp]$ m g5tly ?an ev] 9 ! ,himalayan c$>s1 & ! ro> ( ! ,sutlej s\nd$ l ! roll ( drums 9 a triumphal m>*4 ,9 ,kotg> ,i 0 pres5t at ev5song 9 ! mission>ies' *ur*4 ,h[ /range to he> aga9 ! s(t soo?+ tones ( ! organ1 & z an unwor?y ,*ri/ian pilgrim 9 a ,*ri/ian temple rememb] ! solitude ( ! pa/ ye>s4 ,! foll[+ day ,i m>*$ along ! road 9 ! company ( my m5 = ! la/ "t1 = ne> ,n>k&a a rick%aw met me1 s5t by ,colonel ,dunlop ,smi?4 ,i left !m1 to hurry on )\t delay1 :ile !y 7 to foll[ 9 ! usual ord] ( m>*4 ,h[ pleasant to lean aga9/ ! back ( ! little two-:eel$ vehicle & roll away at a rapid pace "u ! %ady canopy ( ! deod>s6 ,septemb] #ae 0 a great day = me4 ,i /ay$ at ! bungal[ ( ,fagu1 & ?is camp1 :]e ,i 0 q alone1 0 ,no4 #dii4 ,simla1 !re=e1 w\ld be #ejj4 ,x felt v /range to /& on ! b\nd>y betwe5 ! wild]ness & ! mo/ ref9$ civilization4 ,at ! brea/work ( ! excell5t c>riage-road sat a g5tleman 9 8 rick%aw2 x 0 my fri5d ,mr4 ,edw>d ,buck1 ,reut]'s correspond5t4 ,?is is ! beg9n+1 ,i ?\ght2 & on ,i w5t on ?is la/ day's j\rney4 ,! f9e impos+ t[n appe>s 9 ! di/ance on ! slopes ( its hills & ! :ite h\ses peep out f among ! trees 7,illu/4 #chg74 ,a "y maid5 takes a snap ( u ) h] cam]a1 b x is e>ly 9 ! morn+1 & )\t fur!r adv5tures we take refuge at a g5tleman's outfitt]s1 = 9 spite ( ! clo!s f ,poo ,i mu/ und]go a complete r5ovation be=e ,i c pres5t myself be=e ! doors ( ! ,vic]egal ,lodge4 ,:at a total contra/ to ! lonely life ,i _h l$ = two long ye>s6 ,on ,septemb] #af a ,/ate ball took place1 & ,i he>d aga9 ! crun*+ s\nd on ! s& ( ! c\rt z innum]able rick%aws bore gue/s to ! ball4 ,ru/l+ silk1 glitt]+ jewels1 brilliant uni=ms--9 an unbrok5 l9e ! lite ( ,simla pass betwe5 satellites ) _! tall turbans & %9+ lances4 ,god save ! ,k+6 ,foll[$ by _! /aff ,_! ,excell5cies ent]1 & op5 ! dance to ! notes ( a waltz ( ,/rauss4 ,x 0 j z 9 ,may #aijf1 & ! tw5ty-eight mon?s t _h int]v5$ seem$ to me l a /range fanta/ic dream4 ,! fir/ days ,i /ay$ 9 ! h\se ( my noble old fri5d ,colonel ,dunlop ,smi?1 & _h n[ an opportunity ( ?ank+ him & 8 amiable ladies = ! tr\ble !y _h tak5 9 connection ) ! consignm5t to ,g>tok ! ye> be=e4 ,!n ,i mov$ ov] to ! ,vic]egal ,lodge1 & aga9 enjoy$ ! same b\ndless hospitality ( ,"l & ,lady ,m9to4 ,f my w9d[ ,i saw aga91 %>p & cle>1 ! cre/s ( ! ,himalayas1 & beyond ! m\nta9s & valleys ( ,tibet /ret*$ out 9 a b\ndless sea4 ,:at weal? & luxury6 ,i liv$ l a pr9ce1 walk$ on s(t rugs & m$itat$1 lay & read ,sw$i% j\rnals 9 a deep s(t b$1 by electric light1 & ba!d 9 a porcela9 ba?1 att5d$ by ,h9dus 9 ! vic]egal liv]y--,i :o _h lately gone 9 rags & t5d$ %eep4 ,illu/ration3 #chh4 ,,! ,,la/ ,,memb]s ,,( ,,! ,,exp$ition ,,at ,,! ,,entrance ,,( ,,! ,,vic]egal ,,lodge ,,9 ,,simla4 ,on ,septemb] #bd a hundr$ & fifty ladies & g5tlem5 9 full dress 7 assembl$ 9 ! ,/ate room 9 ! ,vic]egal ,lodge4 ,! occasion 0 a lecture1 & on ! dais hung ) gold-embroid]$ brocade1 :]e ! ?rones usually /&1 0 set up a l>ge map ( ,tibet4 ,! front seats 7 occupi$ by ! ,comm&]-9-,*ief ( ! ,indian ,army1 ,"l ,kit*5] ( ,kh>tum1 ! ,gov]nor ( ! ,panjab1 ! ,mah>ajas ( ,alw> & ,gwalior2 & among ! gue/s might be se5 g5]als & sup]ior (fic]s1 ,/ate secret>ies1 m5 ( sci5ce1 & memb]s ( ! diplomatic corps !n pres5t 9 ,simla4 ,! ,milit>y ,secret>y1 ,colonel ,victor ,brooke1 came =w>d & ann\nc$ ! arrival ( ! ,vic]oy & ,lady ,m9to4 ,i 0 trembl+ ) /age fright1 b be=e ,i knew any?+ ab\t x1 my op5+ words1 ,y\r ,excell5cies1 ,ladies & ,g5tlem51 s\nd$ ?r\gh ! brilliant saloon1 & !n foll[$ an acc\nt ( my la/ j\rney4 ,x 0 "o o'clock 9 ! morn+ be=e ,i conclud$1 & aft] a mo/ flatt]+ spee* f ,"l ,m9to ! gue/s )drew to ! late supp]4 ,my six ,ladakis & our sev5 rema9+ animals /ay$ 9 a s]ai bel[ ! palace4 ,i (t5 w5t & talk$ to !m1 & play$ a :ile ) my old travell+ companion ,little ,puppy4 ,b ! "t pass$ quickly1 & soon ! la/ day came4 ,i embrac$ & squeez$ ,little ,puppy1 /rok$ 8 head1 & f\nd x h>d to te> myself away4 ,he 0 put out by 8 ma/]'s elegant co/ume1 & _h a melan*oly que/ion+ expression1 z ?\gh he suspect$ t ! bond betwe5 u 0 loos$1 & t we %\ld nev] see ea* o!r aga94 ,we _h %>$ ev]y?+ 9 common f ! "t he 0 born bel[ ! sn[y ,k>akorum pass1 & to "p f dogs is ! h>de/ trial ( all2 to bid m5 f>ewell is n s di/ress+4 ,at our arrival 9 ,simla ,i _h giv5 !m #fj rupees ea* = new clo?+1 & 9 ! baza> !y _h f\nd "s old ca/-(f uni=ms ) bright metal buttons1 :i* !y ?\ght gr& & becom+4 ,on ! neck lappets 7 ! words ,gu>d1 ,london ,s4,w4 ,railway1 & h[ !y f\nd _! way to ,india ,i d n "k4 ,b 9 ^! uni=ms & 9 r$ fezzes my m5 assembl$ 9 ! palace c\rt on ! la/ day ( ,septemb] 7,illu/4 #chh74 ,!y 7 all[$ to keep our sev5 horses & mules1 saddles1 t5ts1 sk9 coats1 b$ furniture1 & ev]y?+4 ,my :ite horse !y 7 to sell 9 ,leh & divide ! price4 ,gulam took *>ge ( ,little ,puppy1 & und]took to see t he did n suff] want 9 ! future--x 0 l break+ up an old home4 ,besides 8 pay1 e man receiv$ a pres5t ( #ajj rupees1 & _! exp5ses to ,leh f\r times ov]4 ,"l & ,lady ,m9to 7 pres5t at ! la/ f>ewell1 & ! ,vic]oy made !m a %ort1 *e]y spee*4 ,x 0 a sad p>t+1 & ev5 ! calm ,lobsang1 :o 0 amaz$ at ! weal? & spl5d\r ( ,simla1 wept l a *ild z ) heavy /ep he foll[$ 8 comrades d[n to _! wait+ animals4 ,:at fai?fulness6 :at devotion6 exclaim$ ,lady ,m9to ) feel+2 _! te>s are m expressive ?an words4 ,at ! beg9n+ ( ,octob] ! ,vic]oy & ,lady ,m9to set out on an excursion into ! m\nta9s1 & aft] a he>ty f>ewell & w>m ?anks = all ! k9dness !y _h %[]$ on me1 ,i rema9$ lonely & =lorn 9 ! great palace4 ,my /eam] w\ld n leave ,bombay = a week1 & ,i 0 delight$ to be ! gue/ ( ,"l ,kit*5] 9 8 resid5ce1 ,sn[don1 dur+ ! five days ,i 0 yet to /ay 9 ,simla4 ,i %all nev] =get ^! days4 ,my room 0 decorat$ ) fl[]s1 & on a table /ood f\rte5 books on ,tibet1 *os5 f ! ,g5]al's libr>y to supply me ) ent]ta9+ read+4 ,) ! aides-de-camp ,capta9s ,wyllie & ,basset1 m]ry fell[s & good comrades1 we liv$ l f\r ba*elors1 took breakfa/1 lun*1 & d9n] toge!r1 & sp5t ! ev5+ 9 ! billi>d-room1 on ! mantelpiece ( :i* 0 ! appropriate motto1 ,/rike1 & fe> n4 ,9 ! aft]noon ! ,g5]al took me out along ! road lead+ to ,tibet4 ,we !n talk$ ( ! future ( ,europe 9 ,asia & ,africa1 & ,i ga9$ a great] insight ?an ,i _h ev] done be=e into ,"l ,kit*5]'s life & "w 9 ,egypt4 ,b ! days at ,sn[don also came to an end1 & on ,octob] #aa1 :5 ! p 7 flock+ to *ur*1 ,i 0 driv5 by ! victor ( ,africa to ! /ation1 :]e ,i took a la/ f>ewell ( ! man = ^: exploits ,i h always felt a b\ndless admiration4 ,at ,summ]hill /ation1 bel[ ! ,vic]egal ,lodge1 ,i ex*ang$ a la/ %ake ( ! h& ) my de> fri5d ,dunlop ,smi?1 & !n ! :ite h\ses ( ,simla vani%$ 9 ! di/ance1 & ! tra9 roll$ d[n to ! heat ( ,india & ! great lonely sea4 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,s\rces ,,( ,,! ,,brahmaputra1 ,,sutlej1 ,,& ,,indus ,by ,dr4 ,sv5 ,h$94 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,map ,,( ,,trans-,,himalaya ,by ,dr4 ,,sv5 ,,h$9 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,map ,,( ,,tibet ,,%[+ ,,dr4 ,,sv5 ,,h$9',s ,,r\tes #aijf-aijh4 ,,index ,abbot1 a twelve-ye>-old1 ii4 #afc ,abdul ,k]im1 my c>avan lead]1 ii4 #bbf2 error (1 z to =age1 #bda2 assumes rle ( ma/] ( c>avan1 #bia1 #cdd2 ideas z to ! "t ( day1 #cjb2 despat*$ 9 *>ge ( second division ( c>avan to ! ,t>ok-tso1 #cga2 anxiety z to :]eab\ts (1 #cif2 arrives at our camp at ,ratse1 #cii2 bid f>ewell to1 ) o!r five ( my foll[]s1 #daf ,absi1 peak ( ! ,kubi-gangri1 ii4 #ajb ,abuk-la pass1 ii4 #cif ,adam1 ,colonel1 milit>y secret>y to ! ,vic]oy1 i4 #af ,age1 av]age1 ( c>avan1 i4 #ec ,aid1 ,mohamm$an fe/ival celebrat$ 9 camp1 i4 #aia ,aksai-*91 lake1 unannex$ region (1 i4 #ic1 #ie1 #ih2 ii4 #beh ,al*i1 dang]\s bridge at1 i4 #dd ,alex&] ! ,great1 i4 #c2 ii4 #bac ,amban ,li5 ,y1 ( ,lhasa1 i4 #cic1 #djj ,am*5-la pass1 ii4 #cif ,am*i-lama 7monk-doctor71 t5t-temple (1 ii4 #bif ,am*ok-tang1 pla91 ii4 #cf ,am*ok-tso1 lake1 ii4 #cf2 camp at1 #cg2 %all[ness (1 #ch2 s\nd+s on1 #ci ,am*ok-yung1 village (1 ii4 #cf ,am*ung c\ntry1 int]e/+ in=mation acquir$ 91 ii4 #cbe ,amitabha1 ! ,ta%i ,lama ! inc>nation (1 i4 #cbf ,amusem5ts1 ,tibetan1 i4 #cda ,an*>1 lake1 i4 #cb ,angd5-la pass1 cairn ) pray]-/ream]s on1 ii4 #cd2 panoramic view f1 #ce2 n situat$ on same range z ! ,samye-la1 #ccj ,angsi-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #ajd ,antelope ,pla91 "n giv5 by ,capta9 ,deasy1 i4 #adb ,antelopes1 i4 #ib1 #aad1 #age1 #ahf2 ii4 #cf1 #bfb1 #bhb2 me?od ( sn>+1 i4 #aai2 ii4 #bgd ,aong-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #cii ,ar*]y & %oot+ competitions on horseback1 i4 #cdc ,argok-tso1 lake1 ii4 #djj ,arnold1 ,! ,light ( ,asia1 quotation f1 ii4 #bjf ,arport-tso1 lake1 cross+ ( ice (1 ii4 #bfc ,arung-kampa1 des]t$ village (1 i4 #bhj ,asses1 wild1 upright position ( froz51 ii4 #ie2 great h]ds met )1 #bhe ,atk9son1 ,mr4 ,e4 ,t41 "w by1 cit$1 ii4 #djb ,bailey1 ,lieut5ant1 ,act+ ,resid5t at ,gyangtse1 i4 #bee ,balls1 ,/ate1 9 ,simla1 i4 #ag2 ii4 #dbj ,baltal1 i4 #ch ,b&o1 camp at1 ii4 #hc ,b>ley1 roa/$1 a delicacy1 ii4 #ad ,b>ong-la pass1 ii4 #cj ,basang valley1 camp 91 ii4 #df ,basgho-gompa1 mona/]y1 i4 #dd ,b$1 me?od ( mak+ my1 i4 #aej ,b5-la pass1 /orm on1 ii4 #cd ,besant1 ,mrs4 ,annie1 i4 #cj ,bibles1 ! ,tibetan1 9 libr>y ( ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #ccc2 9 ,ta%i-gembe1 #dab ,biographical details ( c>avan1 i4 #aea-aec ,bir* b>k1 dream sugge/$ by1 ii4 #ie ,boat1 our portable1 i4 #bh2 successful trip (1 #ajg2 description ( ,tibetan1 #bhh ,bogtsang-tsangpo1 !1 camp at1 i4 #bje2 int]view ) *ief ( di/rict1 #bje2 geographical in=mation obta9$1 #bjf2 erratic c\rse (1 #bjg ,bok> valley1 ii4 #bab ,bombo1 or di/rict *ief1 i4 #bfb ,bongba1 prov9ce (1 ii4 #cjd2 t5sion ( j\rney ?r\gh !1 #cab2 names ( ! twelve di/ricts (1 #chh ,bongba-*angma1 di/rict (1 ii4 #cjd ,bongba-*u%>1 di/rict (1 ii4 #cgi ,bongba-kebyang1 di/rict (1 ii4 #chh ,bongba-kem>1 di/rict (1 ii4 #cbd1 #chi ,bongba-kyangrang1 high-road to ,lap*ung ?r\gh1 ii4 #chg ,brahmaputra1 !1 valley (1 i4 #bha2 welcome news receiv$ at1 #bhb2 mona/]ies (1 #bhb2 conflu5ce ( ! ,*aktak-tsangpo )1 ii4 #dh2 measurem5ts & ratios1 #di2 junction ( ! ,tsa-*u-tsangpo )1 & measurem5ts1 #gd2 possible div]sion (1 #gh2 v>y+ volume (1 #hh2 ,na9 ,s+ on its s\rces1 #hi2 ,webb]'s confus+ /atem5t z to ! orig9 (1 #hi2 ,ryd]'s map ( valley ( upp]1 #ij2 s\rce-/reams (1 #ij-ie2 au?or's det]m9ation ( its s\rce 9 ,kubi-gangri1 #if1 #aja2 we bid f>ewell to1 #aje ,briti% ,gov]nm5t1 *ange (1 i4 #d2 refuse p]mission to ent] ,tibet f ,india1 #g1 #chh2 cauti\s policy (1 #aj1 #cie ,buck1 ,mr4 ,edw>d1 ii4 #bai1 #dai ,buddha1 /one figures (1 at ,dras1 i4 #ci2 po/ure (1 9 /atues & pictures1 ii4 #aj ,buddhism1 introduc$ into ,tibet1 i4 #cab2 pres]vation ( life a fundam5tal pr9ciple (1 #cab ,buka-magna1 m\nta9 sy/em1 i4 #afd ,bumnak-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #bb ,bup-*u-tsangpo1 riv]1 s\rces (1 i4 #bgf ,buptsang-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #cbe2 sc5]y (1 #cbf2 its headwat]s1 #cbg2 camp by !1 #chi ,bupyung-r+ valley1 beauty (1 ii4 #cbg ,burr>d1 ,colonel ,s4 ,g41 on dra9age area ( ! ,sutlej1 ii4 #ahg2 book by ,hayd5 &1 m5tion$1 #djd2 disapproves ( au?or's use ( ! "n ,trans-,himalaya1 #dab ,burr\ghs ,wellcome1 ,london1 m$ic9e-*e/ pres5t$ by1 i4 #bi1 #agb2 my (f]+ to ! ,ta%i ,lama1 #caf2 ii4 #dj ,bus]-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #bfa ,call ( ! wild]ness1 !1 i4 #a ,calv]t1 ,mr41 crosses ,jukti-la pass1 ii4 #bae1 #djc ,camp1 our fir/1 i4 #cc ,camp life1 r\t9e ( our1 i4 #aej2 ,tibetan1 ii4 #chg ,campbell-,bann]man1 ,sir ,h5ry1 i4 #d2 telegrams s5t by au?or to1 #h1 #cij ,c&les1 ,*ri/mas-tree (1 i4 #bai ,c>avan1 our1 equipm5t (1 i4 #bh1 #ec2 tr\blesome memb]s1 #ch2 biographical details1 #aea-aec2 re>rangem5t (1 #aff2 home-sickness 91 ii4 #fb1 #fg2 ?ree memb]s dismiss$1 #fi2 _! re9/atem5t1 #gc2 r$uction at ,tok*51 #ajg2 reorganization (1 #aaj2 prep>ation ( new1 = fre% exp$ition1 #baa1 #bbf1 #bbh2 heavy baggage s5t back to ,leh1 #bbi2 p>t+ ) ,rob]t & ,rub ,das1 #bbi2 ,mohamm$an fe/ival1 #bfj2 losses & sickness1 #bfe2 sup]flu\s baggage sacrific$1 #bfi1 #bgi1 #bhb2 directions to1 #bgd2 my hid+-place 91 #cde2 fe/ivities 9 hon\r ( ,gov]nor ( ,saka1 #cfh2 divid$ into two p>ties1 #cga2 comb9$ aga91 #djj2 p>t+ ) my c>avan lead] & companions1 #daf2 f>ewell to rema9d] ( foll[]s 9 ,simla1 #dbb ,cassels1 ,mr41 pres5t ( tea f1 ii4 #agi ,*abuk-tso1 lake1 ii4 #cbb ,*ak-*om-la pass1 i4 #aia ,*akko1 holy spr+1 miracul\s p[]s attribut$ to1 ii4 #ajf ,*aklam-la pass1 ii4 #cjh ,*aktak-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #de2 prep>ations = excursion to1 #dg2 conflu5ce ) ! ,brahmaputra1 #dh2 measurem5ts & ratios1 #di1 #fe2 j\rney nor?w>ds along1 #fe2 camp aga9 on1 #cce2 ea/w>d m>* along nor? bank (1 #ccg2 return to1 #cgd ,*amo-lung-*5 valley1 ii4 #aic ,*ang1 or native be]1 i4 #fh ,*anga1 village (1 i4 #fc ,*ang-*5mo valley1 biv\ac at1 i4 #gi2 ii4 #bcc ,*ang-la pass1 i4 #fd2 alt> ) pray]-/ream]s on summit (1 #ff ,*ang-la-,pod-la pass1 mean+ ( ! t]m1 ii4 #ai2 camp on1 #bj ,*ang-lung-b>ma valley1 i4 #ha ,*ang-lung-yogma valley1 i4 #ha1 #hd2 difficulties 91 #hb2 camp & re/ 91 #hb2 sun%9e & sn[1 #hc2 magnific5t l&scape (1 #he ,*angpas1 ,tibetan nomads1 i4 #aai2 fri5dl9ess (1 #ahb1 #ahh2 habits & ta/es1 #ahd2 skill 9 hunt+1 #ahe2 h>d life (1 #ahf2 disposal ( _! dead1 #ahg ,*ang-%ung1 a headwat] ( ! ,raga-tsangpo1 ii4 #da ,*ang-tang1 !1 desp]ate situation 91 i4 #afc2 our successful cross+ (1 #baj ,*ang ,y9 ,tang1 ,*9ese ,commission] 9 ,tibet1 correspond5ce )1 i4 #cic1 #cig2 ii4 #db1 #gj ,*apka-la pass1 i4 #bei ,*>vak1 camp at1 ii4 #bcd ,*ega-gompa temple1 i4 #bhj ,*ema-yundung1 riv]1 ii4 #ij1 #ajc2 measurem5t ( dis*>ge1 #ia ,*ema-yundung-pu1 heights (1 ii4 #ib ,*5mo1 kotid> ( ,tankse1 i4 #gc1 #hg ,*]gip-gompa mona/]y1 its s+le monk1 ii4 #afe ,*]ok1 di/rict (1 ii4 #hh ,*esang-la pass1 int5se cold on1 i4 #bgd ,*hort51 or /one monum5t1 i4 #db ,*i ,*ao ,nan1 translation ( passage f 8 "w on s\rce ( ! ,sutlej1 ii4 #ahc2 accuracy ( 8 /atem5ts1 #ahc ,*ikum1 view f camp at1 ii4 #hc ,*imre mona/]y1 i4 #fd ,*9ese ,gov]nm5t1 messages f1 i4 #chi1 #cia2 importance ( supremacy 9 ,tibet to !1 #cif2 specim5 ( diplomatic correspond5ce1 #cig2 c\rtesy ( (ficials to au?or1 #djj ,*9ese passport1 efficacy ( my1 i4 #bii ,*9i-*ikang1 nuns' tempor>y qu>t]s1 ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #ceg ,*iptu-la pass1 pilgrim r\te ov]1 ii4 #chh ,*iu-gompa mona/]y1 visits to1 ii4 #aei1 #dae ,*ock>-%ung-*u valley1 ii4 #ge ,*ok*u1 c>avan b\nd =1 met )1 i4 #bgj2 ! ,gov]nor (1 ii4 #cii ,*oma-taka1 cave (1 ii4 #ah ,*omo-sumdo valley1 camp 91 ii4 #af ,*omo-u*ong1 ,high ,nun1 ridge (1 ii4 #da1 #ccc1 #cdd1 #cfb ,*ong-yangal1 camp at1 ii4 #bcb ,*ri/mas1 our celebration (1 i4 #bai2 ,ladaki hymn & dances at1 #bbj2 translation ( hymn sung at1 #bba2 comp>ison ( diff]5t ye>s1 ii4 #bdh ,*ugge-lung valley1 i4 #bga ,*ungsang1 a tribut>y ( ! ,tsangpo1 ii4 #de ,*unit-tso1 lake1 ii4 #cbb1 #chg2 w>m sulphur spr+ at1 #cbc ,*ur* fe/ivals1 ,lamai/1 i4 #cja ,*uru pool1 camp at1 ii4 #fg ,*uta di/rict1 sulphur\s spr+s 91 i4 #hb ,*yky+1 ! ,gova (1 ii4 #cad1 #caf ,cleanl9ess1 ,ladakis' contempt =1 i4 #aej ,cockburn's ,ag5cy1 assi/ance 9 furni%+ & transport1 i4 #bh ,consul ( ,nepal1 !1 i4 #cjd1 #cge ,correspond5ce1 arrangem5ts = =w>d+1 i4 #gb1 #hc1 #hg1 #ajc2 welcome arrival (1 at ! ,ngangtse-tso1 #bed2 & at ,%igatse1 #cgg ,corve1 sy/em (1 exact$ on ,tibetan high-roads1 ii4 #cbh ,cripple1 our fai?ful can9e foll[]1 i4 #bfc ,crosby1 exp$ition (1 ref]r$ to1 i4 #ih ,curzon1 ,"l1 enc\rag+ lett] f1 i4 #c2 leaves ,india1 #d2 on au?or's use ( "n ,trans-,himalaya1 ii4 #dac ,dagtse-tso1 i4 #bag ,dahlgr51 ,dr4 ,e4 ,w41 /atem5t by1 z to wall-maps 9 ,v5ice1 ii4 #djf ,dalai ,lama 7,gyalpo ,r9po*e71 c[>dly flight (1 i4 #bdd1 #cjf2 8 sph]e comp>$ ) t ( ! ,ta%i ,lama1 #cbc2 disa/r\s policy (1 #cbc ,dal-d]vaseh1 canal j\rney f1 i4 #cb ,dalglei%1 ,mr41 monum5t to1 9 ,leh1 i4 #ei ,dambak-rong1 valley junction1 ii4 #gj2 lett] f ! ,tang ,d>9 receiv$ at1 #gj ,dam-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #aha ,damm valley1 ii4 #gi ,d&y1 or av]age man's load1 i4 #aff ,dane1 ,sir ,l\is1 int]view )1 i4 #g1 #aa ,dangbe-*u1 riv]1 i4 #bgf ,dangbe-la pass1 i4 #bgg ,dangra-yum-tso1 lake1 p]mission to visit1 refus$1 i4 #bdg1 #bea2 reput$ sal9ity (1 ii4 #bi2 %ape & ext5t (1 #bi2 pilgrim r\tes r\nd1 #bi2 ,na9 ,s+'s nom5clature ( di/rict1 #cj2 propos$ da% =1 #chb ,d',anville1 maps by1 ref]r$ to1 ii4 #ahe1 #ahf1 #ccg1 #dja ,dapsang1 on ! heights (1 ii4 #bdh2 ,*ri/mas box = ! animals at1 #bea ,daya ,ki%5 ,kaul1 private secret>y to ,mah>aja ( ,ka%mir1 assi/ance r5d]$ by1 i4 #bd1 #bh ,dead1 b>b>\s disposal ( !1 i4 #cgj ,deane1 ,sir ,h>old1 i4 #ae ,deasy1 ,capta91 ,fev] ,camp (1 i4 #abj2 baggage & provisions left by1 at ,ye%il-kul1 #abh ,deasy ,gr\p1 m\nta9 mass1 i4 #aca1 #ach ,d5a-lhakang temple1 ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #cfd ,d5ti/ry1 dra/ic =m (1 ii4 #cbd ,deva%ung4 ,see ,tibetan ,gov]nm5t ,devotional ex]cises ( pilgrims1 ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #ceg ,di*a-la pass1 importance ( wat]%$1 ii4 #cge ,dikpa-k>nak1 or te/-/one = s9n]s1 ii4 #aie ,d+-la1 ! highe/ pass cross$ 9 our j\rney1 ii4 #djj ,d9n]1 ,/ate1 at ,simla1 i4 #ab ,diri-pu mona/]y1 my t5t pit*$ on ro( (1 ii4 #aic ,disguise1 assum$ by au?or1 ii4 #bgg ,dogs3 puppies tak5 ) p>ty1 i4 #cd2 frolics (1 #cg1 #fb1 #fi1 #gd1 #adc1 #aed2 ii4 #cd1 #da2 f ,pobrang add$ to c>avan1 i4 #gd2 des]t$ by "o ( our1 #gh2 a spl5did fea/1 #ajh2 loss ( two1 #bei2 two new foll[]s1 #bfc2 an int]e/+ ev5t1 #cii2 illness & dea?s (1 ii4 #fe1 #fg1 #gc1 #bea2 ano!r happy ev5t1 #bch2 loss ( ,br[n ,puppy1 #bic1 #cja2 pur*ase ( ,takk>1 #cje2 ,little ,puppy's fir/ exp]i5ce ( runn+ wat]1 #cad2 ,takk>'s av[al ( affection1 #cai2 a sorr[ful p>t+1 #dai ,dojas-*imbo1 c\rt 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #cjh ,dokang valley1 camp 91 i4 #bgi2 ,tibetan polit5ess 91 #bhj ,dok-*u 7,raga-tsangpo71 riv]1 voyage ?r\gh rapids (1 i4 #dah2 its conflu5ce ) ! ,brahmaputra1 #dai2 rock-draw+s 9 valley (1 #dbb2 junction ) ! ,my-*u1 #dbb2 head s\rces (1 ii4 #da ,dl*u-gompa mona/]y1 m5tion$1 ii4 #ahb1 #ahg ,dle-gompa nunn]y1 i4 #dbi ,dolma-la pass1 pilgrim (f]+s on1 ii4 #bjj ,dong*5-la pass1 wild %eep on !1 ii4 #chj ,dongdong1 glaci]s ( !1 ii4 #ib2 peaks ( !1 #ajc ,dongmo-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #ci ,dops]ma1 isl& ( ! ,langak-tso1 ii4 #agh ,dorab-la pass1 ii4 #ge ,dor*e1 or emblem ( ?und]bolt1 i4 #cah ,dor*e ,tsu51 ,gov]nor ( ,saka-dzong1 discussion ( my return r\te )1 ii4 #cee-cei1 #cfd2 camp fe/ivities 9 hon\r (1 #cfh2 bid f>ewell to1 #cgj ,d-ts5gkan1 m\nta91 ii4 #cc ,dras1 riv]1 i4 #ci2 /one figures ( ,buddha ne>1 i4 #ci2 junction ) ! ,wakkha1 #dj ,drugub1 i4 #fg2 our new c>avan at1 ii4 #bbf2 salt-c>avan at1 #bbh ,dsabo1 title ( (ficial 9 ,*agha1 i4 #daf ,dsalung-la pass1 importance (1 ii4 #chh ,duan ,su51 ,*9ese (ficial 9 ,%igatse1 i4 #bih1 #chh ,duff1 ,g5]al ,sir ,beau*amp1 i4 #af ,duf\r1 map by1 ii4 #djf ,dumbok-tso1 lake1 i4 #bai ,dunglung valley1 ii4 #aic ,dunglung-d1 valley junction1 ii4 #aic ,dungtsa-tso1 lake1 our camp visit$ by ,tibetans at1 i4 #aib ,dung-yeilak1 oasis (1 ii4 #bcc ,dunka-la pass1 view ( ! ,%uru-tso f1 ii4 #cd ,dunlop ,smi?1 ,colonel ,j4 ,r41 private secret>y to ,vic]oy1 i4 #aa2 arranges z to my correspond5ce1 #ajc2 lett] to1 f ,tok*51 ii4 #ajg2 consignm5t f1 rea*es ,g>tok1 #bbc2 hospitality 9 ,simla1 #dbj2 good-bye to1 #dbc ,dupkang1 or h]mitage1 ii4 #b ,dutreuil de ,rh9s1 ,fr5* explor]1 i4 #df1 #dg1 #aii ,dzong1 or t[n ) resid5t gov]nor1 i4 #bde ,dzundi village1 m$ic9al spr+s at1 i4 #bhc ,eagles1 i4 #bji ,e>?quake at ,selipuk1 ii4 #cii ,eclipse ( ! sun1 incid5ts ( !1 i4 #beb ,electricity1 g5]ation (1 by drifts&1 ii4 #cjj ,elephant1 a unique1 i4 #ccf ,emir ,s+1 bro!r ( ,mah>aja ( ,ka%mir1 i4 #bf ,equipm5t ( c>avan1 i4 #bh1 #ec2 ii4 #baa ,escort1 our ,pa?an & ,rajput1 i4 #bh2 our ,tibetan1 #djd1 #dbd2 inspection (1 ii4 #af2 fre%1 f ,kyangdam1 #ba2 r\te discuss$ )1 #ba2 ! ,gov]nor ( ,saka-dzong supplies milit>y1 #cfe ,espionage1 sy/em (1 i4 #cgi ,europeans1 ,tibetan di/ru/ (1 i4 #bja2 iron /atues (1 9 ,ta%i-gembe mona/]y1 #dac2 increas$ /r+5cy ( regulations reg>d+1 ii4 #cef ,fagu1 bungal[ (1 ii4 #dai ,family ties1 loos5ess ( ,tibetan1 i4 #cgc ,field-mice1 trea*]\s holes (1 i4 #ib1 #if1 #adg1 #bae1 #bbc2 ii4 #ccb1 #cig ,fireworks1 display (1 at ,sr9ag>1 i4 #bg ,food supplies1 calculations & e/imates (1 i4 #gc ,fox1 surprise ( a1 i4 #adh ,francke1 ,pa/or ,a4 ,h41 i4 #ed ,fri?i('s ,saga1 quotation f1 ii4 #aa ,frd+1 quotation f1 ii4 #f ,fro/-bite1 he>tless des]tion ( victim (1 ii4 #bdj ,fun]al cu/oms1 gruesome1 i4 #cfi ,game1 abundance (1 i4 #agg1 #bje2 ii4 #ej ,g&n-*d+1 nunn]y (1 i4 #daj ,g&>bal1 fir/ camp at1 i4 #cc2 dep>ture ( c>avan f1 #ce ,gang-lung1 m\nta91 ii4 #aji1 #abi ,gang-lung-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #aje1 #abi ,ganglung-gangri range1 direction (1 ii4 #cie ,ganjevan1 i4 #cf ,ganju-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #hf ,ganju-la pass1 ii4 #hf ,gao1 or small case ) figure ( ,buddha1 i4 #bdg ,g>a-la pass1 ii4 #cff ,g>-gunsa1 arrival at1 ii4 #bai2 mislead+ reports int5tionally spread at1 #bai2 plans =m$ at1 #bbb2 arrival ( consignm5t f ,india1 #bcc2 leave = ,tankse1 #bbd ,g>tok1 m5 & baggage s5t to1 f ,tok*51 ii4 #ajg2 ma9 c>avan s5t to1 f ,khaleb1 #bjh2 lett]s receiv$ at1 #bae2 visit to ! ,g>puns (1 #bae2 fri5dly lett] f ,li5 ,d>9 at1 #baf2 consultation ) ,gulam ,razul at1 #bag2 plans consid]$1 & return to ,ladak resolv$ on1 #bah2 leave = ,g>-gunsa1 #bai ,gaura1 lett]s f home receiv$ at1 ii4 #dai ,gave-t+1 massive ( ,kubi-gangri1 ii4 #aja1 #ajc ,gaw ,daloi1 ,*9ese ,ag5t at ,gyangtse1 i4 #chh2 correspond5ce )1 #cij1 #cib ,gazelles1 ,goa1 i4 #bdj ,gebuk-*u1 conflu5ce (1 ) ! ,*ak-tak-tsangpo1 ii4 #ccg ,gebuk-la pass1 ii4 #cda ,gebuk-yung1 di/rict (1 ii4 #cci ,geese1 wild1 flock (1 i4 #aff2 habits (1 #afg1 #afh2 migrations (1 ii4 #cba2 ,tibetan rev]5ce =1 #cfb ,gelong1 ord] ( prie/hood1 i4 #cea ,gelugpa1 mona/ic sect f\nd$ by ,tsong ,kapa1 i4 #cce ,g]tse1 nomads f1 i4 #agi1 #ahd1 #aib2 ii4 #bhe2 _! di/ru/ ( ea* o!r1 i4 #aic2 h\se ( *ief (1 ii4 #bif ,getsa-rung1 gold plac] (1 ii4 #bgf ,getsul1 ord] ( prie/hood1 i4 #cea ,ghe1 biv\ac at1 & escort *ang$1 i4 #dbd ,goa-la pass1 ii4 #chg ,goa-lung valley1 ii4 #chg ,goang-%ung1 guides obta9$ at1 ii4 #cib ,goang-tso1 lake1 i4 #bag ,goats1 tak5 ) c>avan = milk1 i4 #gd ,gobrang1 ridge (1 i4 #bjf ,gogra1 camp at1 i4 #ha ,gold1 traces ( se>* =1 i4 #agd1 #ahh2 plac]s1 ii4 #bgf1 #bhd ,gomo-selung c\ntry1 i4 #agi ,gompa-s>pa1 cemet]y ( ,%igatse1 i4 #cfi ,gossul-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #abb1 #ace2 novices 91 #ade2 lhakang (1 #adf2 ,som*ung1 ap>tm5t 91 #adf2 view f ro(1 #adh ,gova1 or di/rict *ief1 i4 #bje ,gov]nors1 dual1 ,tibetan sy/em (1 ii4 #ced ,govo1 village (1 ii4 #ad ,govo-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #ac ,grnw$el1 "w on ,buddhi/ic my?ology by1 i4 #cbi n4 ,gubuk-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #hj ,guff>u1 old1 i4 #eb1 #gb1 #ha1 #bae2 ii4 #dj2 appo9t$ c>avan lead] on ,muham$ ,isa's dea?1 #ei2 returns home ) ?irte5 memb]s ( c>avan1 #ajg2 safe arrival at ,g>tok1 #add ,guide1 vag>ies ( our1 i4 #dbh ,gulam ,kadir1 son ( ,naz] ,%ah1 assi/ance r5d]$ 9 ,%igatse by1 i4 #cgg1 #chd ,gulam ,razul1 son ( ,naz] ,%ah1 valuable s]vices (1 i4 #ef2 ii4 #bag-bba2 hon\rs conf]r$ on1 i4 #ef2 ii4 #bba ,gunda-tammo1 nunn]y (1 i4 #dbc ,gunsang ,ngurbu1 a c5t5>ian h]mit1 ii4 #ah ,gunt1 camp at1 i4 #cg ,gurkang-pu valley1 ii4 #hj ,gurla ,m&atta1 m\nta9 gr\p1 ii4 #ajd1 #ajf1 #aaa1 #aab2 v>y+ aspects (1 #aad ff42 d5udation cones1 #aeg ,gyalpo ,r9po*e1 ! ,preci\s ,k+4 ,see ,dalai ,lama ,gyang-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #hh ,gyangtse1 lett]s despat*$ to1 i4 #bfj2 message f ,*9ese ,ag5t at1 #chh2 ,muham$ ,isa's mission to1 #cia1 #cif ,gyebuk-la pass1 important trade r\te1 ii4 #dg2 view f1 #dh ,gyegong valley1 camp 91 ii4 #cga ,gyegong-la pass1 ii4 #cgb ,gye-la pass1 ii4 #cfa ,gy5or-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #cib ,gyuma-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #afb ,hajji ,baba1 "n assum$ by au?or1 ii4 #bge ,hamdung1 w&]+ lamas' qu>t]s 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #ceg ,ha/+s1 ,w>r51 embassies to ! ,ta%i ,lama f1 i4 #cba1 #ccd ,hawkes1 ,g5]al1 i4 #af ,hemis1 temple (1 ne> ,*anga1 i4 #fc ,h]mit1 cell (1 ne> ,l+a-gompa1 ii4 #b2 8 h]oic v[1 #c2 8 pray]s = ! sick1 #d2 c]emony ( seclusion1 #e2 quotation f ,frd+1 #f2 liv+ dea? (1 #g1 #aj2 caves (1 at ,nyang-t-ki-pu1 #h2 ,waddell on practice ( seclusion = life1 #i2 la/ (fices1 #aj2 a c5t5>ian1 #ah ,himalayas1 !1 view (1 f ! ,ta-la1 i4 #bgh2 f ! ,angd5-la1 ii4 #ce2 f ! ,s]*ung-la1 #fi ,hiraman1 an old fri5d1 i4 #fg1 #gc1 #ge ,hlabs5 ,dor*e ,b>va1 god ( ,tso-mavang1 ii4 #aca ,hlaje ,ts]+4 ,see ,naktsang1 ,gov]nor ( ,hle-lungpa valley1 ii4 #aic ,hl9dug-l+1 i4 #bhi ,hodgson1 map by1 ii4 #dja ,home-sickness 9 c>avan1 ii4 #fb1 #fg ,horse ye>s1 p]iods 9 ,tibetan cycle ( "t1 ii4 #aij ,horses1 pur*ase & numb]+ (1 i4 #di2 qualities ( diff]5t bre$s1 #di2 auxili>y c>avan (1 hir$ f ,tankse1 #ej1 #fg2 tr\ble )1 on leav+ ,leh1 #fa2 fir/ loss (1 #ge2 field-mice holes dang]\s =1 #ib1 #if2 ii4 #cig2 ,ladaki consid]ation = dy+1 i4 #ic2 /amp$e (1 #ii1 #aci1 #agh2 ii4 #cj2 mortality among1 i4 #aja-ajc1 #ace1 #ach1 #adi1 #afb1 #aha2 ii4 #bfe2 diet ( ,tibetan1 i4 #aij2 mules comp>$ )1 #aih2 dea? ( my dapple-grey1 #bah2 spl5did condition ( our ,tibetan1 #bfe2 survivors at ,%igatse1 #big2 our vet]ans1 ii4 #bbj1 #bbi2 my :ite ,ladaki1 #bbi1 #bfe1 #bgc2 enorm\s wa/age (1 #bdj2 ,*ri/mas box = our1 #bea2 dea? ( br[n ,%igatse1 #bfd2 & ( my fai?ful :ite ,ladaki1 #bgi ,ho ,tsao ,hs+1 secret>y to ! ,tang ,d>91 ii4 #gj ,h\se1 description ( ,tibetan /one1 ii4 #ad2 dome/ic ut5sils & possessions1 #ae ,h\se-boats ne> ,g&>bal1 i4 #cc ,huc1 ,abb1 book on ,tibet by1 ii4 #djb ,hymn1 ,tibetan1 translation (1 i4 #bba2 wond]ful *ant+ (1 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 #cjh ,ice1 nomads' di/ru/ ( !1 i4 #bbd1 #bbg2 s+ul> =mations (1 on ! ,ngangtse-tso1 #bbg ,id>1 ! ,mah>aja (1 i4 #ae ,illness ( au?or1 i4 #agb ,images1 manufacture (1 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #cfh ,immurem5t1 volunt>y1 ( monks1 i4 #cfc2 ii4 #b1 #h4 ,see ,h]mit ,impressions 9 /one1 i4 #ccg1 #djf ,india1 ! ,ta%i ,lama's visit to1 i4 #cba ,indian ,gov]nm5t1 !1 sympa?y (1 i4 #i2 in/ructions (1 z to au?or's passport1 #be1 #bf ,indus1 !1 previ\s se>* = rise (1 i4 #c2 cross$ beyond ,lamayuru1 #dc2 />t = ! s\rce1 ii4 #bjh2 guide & %eep hir$1 #baj2 discov]y ( s\rce (1 #bab1 #bac2 m5tal picture ( its c\rse1 #bac2 ju/ifiable feel+s1 #bad ,in/rum5ts1 sci5tific1 tak5 on exp$ition1 i4 #bi ,jackdaws1 flock (1 at ! ,%em5-tso1 ii4 #bgb ,janglung1 di/rict (1 ii4 #cac ,japanese ,embassy1 repres5tations on my behalf at ,pek9 by1 i4 #cia ,j]a1 camp at1 i4 #dd ,jukti-la pass1 ii4 #bae ,kabbalo1 camp at1 i4 #bgi ,ka*51 ord] ( prie/hood1 i4 #cea ,kadakh1 long n>r[ piece ( :ite silk1 i4 #caj ,kadsung valley1 i4 #hj ,kailas1 ! holy m\nta91 views (1 ii4 #ajf1 #aaa1 #aab1 #aha ff42 set out on pilgrimage r\nd1 #ahi2 ,ny&i-gompa1 #aij2 pilgrims on ! way1 #aib1 #aig2 ,diri-pu mona/]y1 #aic2 te/-/one = s9n]s1 #aie2 univ]sal ,tibetan rev]5ce =1 #aif2 ! mo/ fam\s m\nta9 9 ! _w1 #aih2 pro/ration pilgrimage describ$1 #aii2 pilgrims' p]=mance at ,dung-*apje1 #bjj2 (f]+s on ! ,dolma-la1 #bja2 ,tsumtul-pu mona/]y1 #bjb ,ka-la pass1 view (1 ii4 #cif ,kali-,g&ak1 riv]1 ii4 #gh ,kalun1 or high (ficial1 i4 #bja ,kamba-sumdo1 ii4 #da ,kamba ,ts5am1 t5t-encampm5t belong+ to1 ii4 #cci2 (f] ( guide decl9$1 #cda2 nocturnal visit to my t5t1 #cff2 boa/ful talk (1 #cfg2 fa!r ( ! robb]s1 #cfg2 enorm\s t5t (1 #cfg2 good-bye to1 #cgb ,kam*ung-*u1 "n ( upp] ,*aktak-tsangpo1 ii4 #ccg ,kam-la pass1 i4 #bac ,kampo ,lama1 or abbot1 i4 #cea ,kan*ung-gangri range1 ii4 #cgb1 #cgd1 #cge ,k&o-sanglam valley1 view ( ,kailas ?r\gh1 ii4 #bjb ,kangan1 t5ts pit*$ at1 i4 #cf ,kanglung-bup*u1 riv]1 ii4 #df ,kanglung-la pass1 tiresome asc5t to1 ii4 #de ,kang-r9po*e4 ,see ,kailas ,kang%am-tsangpo1 riv]1 unpleasant cross+ (1 ii4 #cjf ,kanjur-lhakang1 libr>y ( ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #ccc2 lectures 91 #cff ,kap*or1 camp at1 i4 #bfa ,kapt>-khane1 camp at1 ii4 #bcc ,k>aka% ,d>ya1 riv]1 ii4 #beb ,k>akorum range1 appe>ance (1 f ,*ang-lung-yogma1 i4 #hf2 c>avan envelop$ by /orm f1 #ia ,k>bu1 an old foll[] recogniz$ at1 i4 #dj ,k>bu-la pass1 ii4 #ajg ,k>gan-la pass1 ii4 #ajc ,k>gil1 trial & dismissal ( ,ka%miris & ,pa?ans f c>avan at1 i4 #da ,k>ma ,puntso1 ,gov]nor ( ,bongba1 ii4 #cjd1 #cba ,k>ma ,tamd+1 ( ,tang-yung1 guide & yaks suppli$ by1 i4 #bac ,k>ong-tso1 lake1 ii4 #chg ,k>pun1 an old acqua9tance1 i4 #bec ,k>u mona/]y1 i4 #fc ,k>u1 camp at1 i4 #djd ,ka%mir1 ,mah>aja ( 7,sir ,pratab ,s+71 reception ( au?or by1 i4 #bf2 fte giv5 by1 9 hon\r ( ,emp]or ( ,india's bir?day1 #bg ,ka%miris1 dismissal (1 i4 #da ,kayi-pangbuk1 camp at1 i4 #bfb ,kayi-rung valley1 i4 #bfb ,kebe*ungu c\ntry1 configuration ( !1 i4 #aif2 du/-/orm 91 #aif ,kelung-tsangpo1 riv]1 i4 #bfd ,kes>-tsangpo1 riv]1 i4 #bfb ,keva1 m\nta9 peak1 i4 #baf ,khaleb1 riv]1 ii4 #aha2 camp on moor1 #aha1 #ahi1 #bjc ,ki*ung-la pass1 ii4 #de ,ki5 ,lung1 ,emp]or ( ,*9a1 visit$ by ?ird ,ta%i ,lama1 i4 #ccd ,kilung-la pass1 view f1 ii4 #fi ,k9*5-la pass1 ii4 #cdd2 arm$ se>*-p>ty visit our camp bel[ !1 #cde ,kit*5 ( ,ta%i-lunpo1 gigantic tea-cauldrons 9 !1 i4 #cfa ,kit*5]1 ,"l1 assi/ance promis$ by1 i4 #h2 at ,vic]oy's ,/ate d9n]1 ,simla1 #ab2 trophies & curios 9 h\se at ,simla1 #ah2 photograph (1 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 #cba2 hospitality to au?or1 ii4 #dbb2 bid good-bye to1 #dbc ,kograng-sanspo1 riv]1 i4 #gi1 #ha2 difficulties 9 cross+1 #hj ,kokbo valley1 camp 91 ii4 #bb-bd2 begg+ lama at1 #bd2 imp5d+ difficulties at1 #be ,kpp51 book on ,lamaism by1 i4 #cbi n4 ,kore-la pass1 ii4 #gc1 #hb2 view f1 #gh ,kteklik1 ii4 #bcg ,kotg>1 att5d mission s]vice 91 ii4 #dai ,kri%na1 ! ,pundit1 i4 #bgb2 ii4 #djd ,kubi-gangri1 excursion to !1 ii4 #hh1 #ii2 s\rce ( ! ,brahmaputra locat$ 91 #if2 huge mora9es (1 #ii2 glaci]s (1 #ajj2 description & names ( peaks1 #ajb ,kubi-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #ij2 measurem5t ( dis*>ge (1 #ia2 j\rney up !1 #ia ,ku5-lun m\nta9 sy/em1 i4 #aca1 #adb ,kulans or kiangs1 wild asses1 i4 #gd1 #ig1 #aed1 #agg2 ii4 #ie1 #afa1 #bhe ,kule-la pass1 ii4 #ced ,kum-bum mona/]y1 visit$ by ?ird ,ta%i ,lama1 i4 #ccd2 miracul\s tree 91 #cce ,kung*ak-kong valley1 ii4 #gi ,kung ,gu%uk1 ,duke1 bro!r ( ! ,ta%i ,lama1 i4 #bee1 #bhb1 #cji2 8 h\se 9 ,%igatse1 #che2 portrait drawn ( 8 wife1 #chf ,kung-lung valley1 false al>m at1 i4 #bae2 a prolong$ /orm1 #baf ,kung-muga1 camp at1 ii4 #hb ,kung-%]ya c\ntry1 dang]s ( discov]y 91 ii4 #cae-cai ,kung-tsangpo1 riv]1 i4 #bfb ,kuru-*ok1 d\ble lake (1 ii4 #ajd ,kyam-*u1 valley (1 ii4 #cf2 junction ( riv] ) ! ,am*ok-tso1 #ci2 delta (1 #ci ,kyangdam pla91 camp on !1 ii4 #bj ,kyangdam-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #cd ,ky]kye valley1 ii4 #dh ,labrang1 !1 palace ( ! ,ta%i ,lama1 i4 #cag1 #ccj ,lac ,ammoniac1 ,dutreuil de ,rh9s'1 i4 #aii ,la*e-to isl&1 ,langak-tso1 wild-geese eggs on1 ii #age ,la-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #aha ,ladaki pony1 my :ite1 i4 #hc1 #agj1 #big2 ii4 #bbi1 #bfe1 #bgc1 #bgi ,ladakis ( c>avan1 _! *e]fulness1 i4 #gf1 #bcj2 /atem5ts reg>d+ ! wea!r1 #gi2 att5tion to dy+ horses1 #ic2 pray]s = successful j\rney1 #aci2 fe/ivities 9 camp1 #adf2 ii4 #cfh2 want ( cleanl9ess1 i4 #aej2 m>vell\s memory (1 #aea2 biographical details (1 #aea2 ,lamai/s among1 receive bless+ ( ! ,ta%i ,lama1 #cef2 home-sickness among1 ii4 #fb1 #fg2 co/ume (1 assum$ by au?or z disguise1 #bgg ,ladung-la pass1 view f summit (1 ii4 #cac ,la5-la pass1 i4 #bbc ,lagbas 7corpse-c>ri]s71 h]$it>y ca/e (1 i4 #cgj2 gruesome occupation (1 #cga ,la-ghyanyak pass1 i4 #bjh ,lakes1 froz51 ,tibetan di/ru/ (1 i4 #bbg ,lama ,r9po*e1 mean+ ( title1 ii4 #b ,lama temple at ,%>gul1 i4 #db ,lamaism1 a corrupt =m ( ,buddhism1 i4 #cab2 f\nd] (1 #cab2 ii4 #bi2 books recomm5d$ = /udy (1 i4 #cbi n4 ,lamai/ ,*ur*1 fe/ivals ( !1 i4 #cja ,lamas1 m5dicant1 i4 #bag1 #chc2 v>i\s ord]s (1 #cea2 devotional pilgrimage ( w&]+1 #ceg ,lamayuru1 village & mona/]y (1 i4 #db1 #dc ,lamblung valley1 camp 91 i4 #bei ,lamlung-la pass1 view f1 ii4 #cfb ,lamlung-la pass1 ,t]i-nam-tso1 ii4 #chd ,lanak-la pass1 clos$ to au?or1 i4 #gi ,l&slip1 a huge1 ii4 #bch ,langak-tso1 lake1 ii4 #abb1 #aeg2 levels tak5 ( i/hmus betwe5 ,manas>[> &1 #afg2 e>li] explor]s' visits1 #afg2 *annel f ,manas>[> to1 #afh1 #ahj1 #ahf2 leg5d z to orig9 ( *annel1 #afi2 outl9e (1 #afi2 s&sp\ts at1 #agj2 prolong$ /orm at1 #agb2 goose-isl& (1 #agd1 #ahj2 freez+ (1 #ahj ,langbo-nan mona/]y1 twelve-ye>-old abbot (1 ii4 #afc1 #dae ,lang*5-kabab1 spr+ (1 ii4 #ahb ,lang*5-kamba1 valley & spr+ (1 ii4 #aje ,lang*5-kamba 7,elephant riv]71 ,tibetan "n = ! ,sutlej1 ii4 #ahb ,langm> village1 camp at1 ii4 #ab ,langm>-tsangpo1 riv] 7upp] ,my-*u71 ii4 #ac ,langta-*5 massive1 ,kubi-gangri1 ii4 #ajb ,lap1 sev]e climate (1 ii4 #cgf ,lap*ung-tso1 lake1 ii4 #cge ,laps5-,t>i1 view ( ,t>go-gangri f1 ii4 #bj ,l>gep1 *ief (1 friction )1 ii4 #bh2 pres5ts f1 #cd ,la-rock pass1 i4 #bhj ,la%man ,das1 ,pundit1 i4 #da ,la-%ung c\ntry1 i4 #agd ,la-%ung-tso1 lake1 i4 #agd ,lav>-gangri1 m\nta9 region1 ii4 #cig ,lav>-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #cii ,ldata valley1 i4 #gd ,leh1 arrival at1 & qu>t]s 91 i4 #de2 our f9al prep>ations 91 #dh1 #ec2 advance c>avan despat*$ f1 #ea2 ,hajji ,naz] ,%ah1 a weal?y m]*ant (1 #ee2 assi/ance ( ,gulam ,razul1 8 son1 #ef2 description ( t[n1 #eg2 old palace (1 #eh2 graves ( ,europeans 91 #eh2 incid5ts ( our s5d-(f f1 #fj ,lehlung-gompa1 visit to mona/]y (1 i4 #dbe2 /uff$ yaks 91 #dbf ,lem*ung-tso1 lake1 camp at !1 ii4 #bhb2 beg9n+ ( a ?irty-days' /orm at1 #bhc ,l5jo1 valley (1 i4 #dbi ,lesda91 ,c\nt de1 i4 #bgb2 book on ,tibet by1 ii4 #djj ,lett]s1 welcome arrival (1 i4 #bef1 #cgg2 arrangem5ts = =w>d+1 #gb1 #hc1 #hg1 #ajc2 despat* (1 f ,tok*51 ii4 #ajg ,lhasa1 visit ( (ficials f1 i4 #cge1 #cie2 ,tundup ,sonam & ,ta%i despat*$ ) lett]s to1 ii4 #db2 in/ructions to ,tibetans f1 z to my j\rney1 #dd ,lhayak1 camp 91 ii4 #ic ,li5 ,d>91 ,amban ( ,lhasa1 correspond5ce )1 i4 #cic1 #djj2 ii4 #db1 #baf ,light51 ,lake1 camp & re/ at1 i4 #aja2 p]sonnel ( c>avan r$uc$ at1 #ajb2 second camp at1 #ajg2 s\nd+s & measurem5ts (1 #ajg-aaj2 /orm on1 #aaa2 a mis]able night at1 #aae2 v>i$ memories (1 #aaf2 rescue p>ty rea* u1 #aah2 sudd5 *ange ( sc5]y on leav+1 #aai ,liktse-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #gd2 skulls z dr9k+-vessels 91 #ge ,l+a-gompa mona/]y1 i4 #dcj2 disposal ( deceas$ monk's prop]ty1 #dca2 view f1 #dcb1 #dcd2 rhy?mical *ant+ 91 #dcb2 ,pesu temple 91 #dcd2 an optical illusion1 #dce ,l+a-kok village1 camp at1 i4 #dcj ,l+ village1 rock-draw+s ne>1 i4 #dbb ,loang-gonga1 riv]1 ii4 #ajd ,lobsang1 my ,tibetan foll[]1 ii4 #bbg ,lobsang ,%unt51 secret>y to ,gov]nor ( ,naktsang1 i4 #bdi ,lobsang ,ts]+1 secret>y to ! ,ta%i ,lama1 visit (1 9 ,%igatse1 i4 #bih ,lobsang ,ts]+1 ,tibetan nomad1 i4 #aib1 #aic ,lo ,gapu1 ,nepalese fronti] *ief1 ii4 #ge1 #hj ,log1 by ,ly? ( ,/ockholm1 i4 #ajh2 ii4 #aad ,long1 camp at1 ii4 #bci ,lop*ak ,mission1 !1 a lucrative monopoly1 i4 #ee ,lopn ,r9po*e4 ,see ,padma ,sambhava ,los>1 ! 7,new ,ye> ,fe/ival ( ,lama ,*ur*74 ,see ,new ,ye> ,fe/ival ,lo-%ung1 !1 headwat] ( ! ,raga-tsangpo1 ii4 #da ,lukkong1 village (1 i4 #gj ,luma-%> c\ntry1 ii4 #cjf ,lumbo-gangri1 holy m\nta91 view (1 f ! ,kilung-la1 ii4 #fi ,lumbur-r+mo-tso1 lake1 ii4 #bhf2 suspicions ( nomads at1 #bhg2 pur*ase ( %eep at1 #bhi ,lundup ,ts]+1 lead] ( ,naktsang p>ty1 ii4 #bf ,lungdep-*u1 !1 tribut>y ( ! ,indus1 ii4 #baa ,lungdep-n+ri1 head ( wild %eep secur$ on1 ii4 #baa ,lung-g&5-gompa mona/]y1 i4 #dbd2 h]mit ( !1 ii4 #c ,lungnak valley1 i4 #gh ,lungnak-bup*u1 /ream1 ii4 #cbc ,lungr+ pass1 ii4 #dj ,lung-yung1 riv]1 ii4 #ib ,lunk>1 camp at1 i4 #gd2 arrangem5t ( c>avan on leav+1 #ge ,lunk>-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #cia ,lunk>-la pass1 ii4 #cib ,lunpo-gangri1 peaks (1 v>y+ views1 ii4 #cbe ff4 ,ly+1 successful1 ,tibetan admiration (1 ii4 #cej ,mabie-tangsam-angmo1 camp at1 ii4 #chi ,ma ,*i ,fu1 ,*9ese (ficial f ,lhasa1 i4 #djj1 #djb ,ma*ung village1 symbolic designs at1 i4 #dba ,m',sw9ey1 ,colonel1 i4 #af ,ma ,daloi1 ,*9ese comm&] 9 ,%igatse1 i4 #bif1 #cae2 celebration ( ,*9ese ,new ,ye>1 #cde2 ord]s me to leave ,%igatse1 #cia ,mad ,gemo1 ! fi%-god ( ,tso-mavang1 ii4 #acj ,ma-lung1 riv]1 i4 #bgg ,mam]1 village (1 i4 #cf ,manas>[>1 ! holy lake1 ii4 #ajf2 ,h9du v5]ation =1 #aaj2 surpass+ beauty ( ! lake & its surr\nd+s1 #aaa2 ,tibetan sup]/itions z to1 #aab1 #aad2 =m] levels1 #aac2 our fir/ sail on1 #aad2 s\nd+s & temp]atures (1 #aae ff42 lightn+ effects on1 #aae2 wond]ful natural ph5om5a1 #aaf1 #aag2 long voyage on1 #aba2 pilgrims at1 #aba1 #acc2 ! lamas ( ,gossul-gompa a/oni%$1 #abb2 outlets (1 #abb2 /orm on1 #abc2 peculi> wave undulations1 #abg2 map ( %ore-l9e drawn1 #abh2 orig9 ( lake det]m9$1 #abh2 ,tugu-gompa & ,yanggo-gompa1 #acj1 #acb2 ,h9du homage to !1 #acc2 t]rific /orm on1 #acf-adj2 succ\r f ,gossul-gompa1 #ada1 #adb2 monks' contradictory /atem5ts z to1 #adg2 its sanctity1 #aea2 spr+s (1 #aef1 #aeh2 und]gr\nd connection ) ,langak-tso1 #aeg1 #afh2 outl9e (1 #aeh2 ,*iu-gompa1 #aei2 our la/ days on1 #afj2 ,pundi-gompa & ,langbo-nan mona/]ies1 #afb1 #afc2 am\nt ( surface wat] fl[+ into1 #afc2 *annel betwe5 ,langak-tso &1 #afh1 #ahj1 #ahf2 ,*]gip-gompa1 #afe2 freez+ (1 #ahj2 j\rney along nor!rn %ore1 #dae ,mani r+mos1 or /one ci/s cov]$ ) slabs i4 #fa ,mankogh-la pass1 i4 #hj ,manlung valley1 i4 #gh ,manuel1 cook to au?or1 i4 #ba2 8 brok5 ,engli%1 #ii2 s5t home f ,lake ,light51 #ajb1 #ajf ,maps ref]r$ to3 ( ,na9 ,s+1 i4 #bej1 #beh2 ii1 #ba1 #bi1 #da1 #cjb1 #chj1 #djc2 ,ryd] & ,wood1 #da1 #he1 #ij1 #dje2 ,webb]1 #hi2 ,d',anville1 #ahe1 #ahf1 #cbg1 #dja2 ,hodgson1 #dja2 ,duf\r1 #dja2 ,saund]s1 #djb2 ,atk9son1 #djb2 ,kri%na1 #djd ,m>*1 l5g? ( a day's1 i4 #gc ,m>*>-tso1 lake1 i4 #beh ,m>ium-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #ij ,m>ium-la pass1 cross$ by ,na9 ,s+1 ii4 #hi ,m>kham1 ,sir ,clem5ts1 book by1 m5tion$1 ii4 #djb ,m>kham1 ,lake1 discov]$ & nam$ by ,capta9 ,rawl+1 i4 #adh ,m>ku-tso1 lake1 i4 #bbd ,m>nyak-la pass1 ii4 #ajd ,m>simik-la pass1 sl[ progress ( c>avan ov]1 i4 #gf2 disagreeable desc5t (1 #gg ,m>tsang-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #ij ,m>x1 ,dr4 ,k>l1 i4 #ed ,m>x1 ,rev4 ,mr41 mission>y at ,poo1 ii4 #dag ,massieu1 ,madame1 meet+ )1 at ,t>&a1 ii4 #dai ,matayun1 camp at1 i4 #ci2 di/urbance 9 c>avan at1 #ci ,mausoleums ( five ,ta%i ,lamas 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #ccj-cch ,m$ic9e-*e/1 a popul>1 i4 #bi1 #agb2 pres5t$ to ! ,ta%i ,lama1 #caf ,memo-*uts51 w>m spr+ (1 ii4 #cgc ,memory1 examples ( m>vell\s1 i4 #aea ,m5-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #fh ,m5-*u valley1 camp 91 ii4 #fi ,m5dicants1 ,tibetan1 i4 #bag ,m5dong-gompa mona/]y1 t5t-villages (1 ii4 #chj ,m5u1 a tempt+1 i4 #ahd ,m]ke-sang1 view f1 ii4 #chh ,meteorological obs]vations1 i4 #adb ,m9to1 ,c\ntess (1 i4 #ac1 #ad1 #ai2 ii4 #dbb ,m9to1 ,e>l (1 ,vic]oy ( ,india1 ef=ts on behalf ( au?or1 i4 #i2 ,/ate d9n] & leve by1 #ab2 receives au?or z 8 gue/1 #ac2 8 popul>ity 9 ,india1 & ,/ate s]vice1 #ac2 family life (1 #ad2 au?or's f>ewell to1 & family1 #ai2 hospitality (1 ii4 #dbj2 spee* to my foll[]s1 #dba2 good-bye to1 #dbb ,mirage1 p]plex+ effects (1 i4 #id2 ii4 #bgc ,mittag-,leffl]1 ,pr(essor1 ,/ockholm ,univ]sity1 ii4 #djf ,mogbo-dimrop c\ntry1 i4 #aii2 gloomy news 91 #bjj ,mohanlal1 m]*ant ( ,leh1 i4 #de1 #ec ,mohanlal1 ,h9du doctor1 ii4 #daf ,mollah ,%ah1 a =m] foll[]1 met )1 ii4 #bcd ,monks 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 religi\s c]emonies by1 i4 #cdh ff42 grades & numb] (1 #cea1 #ceb2 daily life (1 #ceh1 #cff2 great consumption ( tea among1 #cei1 #cfa2 volunt>y immurem5t ( c]ta91 #cfc2 /rict rule en=c$1 #cfd2 manufacture ( images by1 #cfg2 fun]al cu/oms1 #cfi ,monlam-gongma1 ii4 #cbe ,monsoon ra9s1 importance (1 ii4 #fh ,montgom]ie1 ,colonel ,t4 ,g41 ii4 #hi1 #djc ,moravian mission>ies 9 ,leh1 k9dness (1 i4 #ed2 admirable "w among ! ,ladakis1 #ed1 #ee ,morley1 ,"l1 ,secret>y ( ,/ate = ,india1 i4 #h1 #i1 #aa2 expla9s refusal ( p]mission to ent] ,tibet1 #aj ,muglib1 mu/] ( camp & inspection ( animals at1 i4 #fi ,muham$ ,isa1 my c>avan lead]1 i4 #cj2 exp]i5ce & qualifications1 #df1 #dg2 8 prep>ations = equipm5t ( c>avan1 #dh2 wat*ful c>e ex]cis$ by1 #gf2 8 op9ion ( ! ,rajput escort1 #gh2 way-m>ks erect$ by1 #hc1 #adi2 sets out = ,gyangtse1 #cia1 #cif2 arranges fe/ivities 9 ,basang camp1 ii4 #dg2 leaves ) ma9 c>avan = ,saka1 #dg2 illness & suff]+s (1 #eb1 #ec2 8 dea?1 #ed2 fun]al (1 #ef2 appreciations (1 #eg1 #eh2 inscription on tomb/one1 #eh2 ,guff>u appo9t$ 8 successor1 #ei2 ,mohamm$ans hold memorial fea/1 #fj2 depress+ effects ( 8 dea?1 #fb ,muham$ ,rehim1 m]*ant f ,khotan1 ii4 #bcd ,muk*ung-simo massive1 ,kubi-gangri1 ii4 #ajj1 #ajb ,mukd51 ,*ri/mas #aijh sp5t 91 ii4 #bdh ,mules1 comp>ison ( ,poon* & ,tibetan1 i4 #bh1 #aih2 heavy losses (1 #adi1 #afb1 #afc1 #aig2 our new animals at ,g>-gunsa1 ii4 #bbj2 tonic effects ( :isky on1 #bfj1 #bfd2 dea? ( our la/ vet]an1 #bfa ,mundang1 ,nepal1 c>avan f1 ii4 #ge ,munjam valley1 ii4 #bab ,mun-tso1 tw9 lakes1 position (1 ii4 #chj ,my-*u-tsangpo1 riv]1 i4 #bfi1 #bgb2 complicat$ sy/em (1 #bgf2 conflu5ce ( ,dok-*u )1 #dbb2 j\rney up valley (1 #dbc ff42 sc5]y (1 #dbh2 an ecc5tric guide1 #dbh2 comm]cial importance ( valley r\te1 #dbi ,nadsum1 camp at1 i4 #bag ,nagma-tsangpo 7,*uma71 riv]1 ii4 #bh ,nagor1 ! ,gova (1 ii4 #hd ,nagrong valley1 monk-doctor's t5t 91 ii4 #bif2 animals & /ores pur*as$ 91 #big ,na9 ,s+1 8 discov]y ( great lakes ( c5tral ,tibet1 i4 #c2 nom5clature ( ,bogtsang-tsangpo di/rict1 #bjf2 outl9e ( ! ,ngangtse-tso1 #bcj2 maps (1 ref]r$ to1 #bej1 #beh2 ii4 #ba1 #bi1 #da1 #cjb1 #chj1 #djc2 on s\rce ( ,brahmaputra1 #hi ,nakbo-gongrong-gangri1 m\nta91 ii4 #cgf ,nakbo-kongdo-la pass1 ii4 #cgf ,nak*u1 pilgrims f1 i4 #bjj2 pur*ases f1 #bjb ,naktsang1 ,gov]nor (1 refuses to all[ c>avan to proce$1 i4 #bcf1 #bdc1 #bdg2 previ\s tr\ble )1 #bch2 meet+s )1 #bdb1 #bdg2 8 treatm5t by ! ,deva%ung1 #bdc1 #bea1 #cgf2 my proposals to1 #bdd2 unexpect$ *ange ( front by1 #bdi2 eclipse ( sun expla9$ to1 #bed2 cordial leave-tak+1 #beg ,naktsang1 horsem5 f1 our progress /opp$ by1 ii4 #bf2 palav] & agreem5t )1 #bg2 co/umes & equipm5t (1 #ca ,nama*ang di/rict1 camp 91 i4 #bfa ,nam>d+ valley1 camp 91 ii4 #ajg ,nama-%u1 camp at1 ii4 #hj ,nam*5 valley1 jo9t camp 9 !1 ii4 #cfb2 /ores laid 9 at1 #cfd2 r5ew$ discussion ( my return r\te at meet+ 91 #cfd ,namgyal-lhakang temple1 ,ta%i-lunpo1 s]vice 91 i4 #cfb ,namla1 village (1 ii4 #he ,namla-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #he ,namreldi1 valley & /ream1 ii4 #aef ,nangsang-la pass1 ii4 #ib ,naong-rung valley1 i4 #bfc ,naong-tsangpo1 riv]1 i4 #bfb ,nayala1 m\nta91 i4 #dae ,naz] ,%ah1 ,hajji1 a weal?y patri>* ( ,leh1 i4 #ee2 lucrative monopoly 9 family (1 #ef2 s]vices r5d]$ to au?or by 8 sons1 #ef1 #cgg1 #chd2 ii4 #bag-bba2 comm]cial int]e/s 9 ,%igatse1 i4 #che ,nebuk1 village (1 ii4 #hj ,neka di/rict1 camp 91 i4 #bad2 sickness 9 c>avan at1 #bad ,nema-tok1 camp at1 ii4 #caj ,nepal1 ! ,consul (1 at ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #cjd1 #cgd2 a /ol5 visit into1 ii4 #gi2 temptation to ext5d j\rney s\?w>ds1 #ha ,n]ung-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #hd ,neve1 ,dr4 ,ar?ur1 ,sr9ag>1 i4 #bc ,neve1 ,dr4 ,erne/1 i4 #bc ,new ,ye>1 ,*9ese1 celebration (1 i4 #cde ,new ,ye> ,fe/ival1 ,ta%i-lunpo3 its popul>ity1 i4 #cja2 our dress =1 & j\rney to1 #cjc2 a picturesque assemblage1 #cjd2 dresses at1 #cje2 reasons = increase ( int]e/ 91 #cjf2 an en?rall+ hymn-*ant1 #cjh2 arrival ( ! ,ta%i ,lama & 8 c\rt1 #cji2 religi\s dances & masques1 #caa2 effect on ! spectators1 #cac2 a symbolic fire1 #cad2 comb9$ dance ( lamas1 #cae2 g5]al purpose & significance ( ! c]emonies1 #cae ,ngangga1 or ,ganga1 *annel betwe5 ,manas>[> & ! ,langak-tso1 ii4 #ahj1 #ahf ,ngangl>+-tso1 lake1 irregul> outl9e (1 ii4 #cih ,ngangtse-tso1 lake1 re/ at1 i4 #bbc2 ?ickness ( ice (1 #bbd2 h]mit's cave at1 #bbe2 s\nd+s on1 #bbf ff42 sl$ge con/ruct$1 #bbf2 s+ul> ice-effects1 #bbg-bci2 ,new ,ye>'s ,day #aijg on1 #bcj2 ,na9 ,s+'s outl9e (1 #bcj2 cru/ace 91 #bca2 try+ wea!r on1 #bcb2 lett] ) bad news f ,rob]t1 #bcf2 meet+s ) ,gov]nor ( ,naktsang at1 #bdb1 #bdg2 arrival ( mail-bag1 #bed2 reasons = rememb]+ !1 #beg ,ng>tang1 biv\ac 91 i4 #bgg ,ngavang1 jo9t ,gov]nor ( ,saka-dzong1 ii4 #cec1 #cfh ,ngomo-d+d+1 glaci]s (1 ii4 #ib1 #if1 #aja ,ngurbu ,tondup1 our mail-c>ri] to ,gyangtse1 i4 #bfj1 #bgd2 br+s u good news1 #bhb ,ngurkung-la pass1 ii4 #gf ,ni5-*5-tang-la range1 geographical importance (1 i4 #bfg1 #bgb2 ii4 #ai1 #ccj2 que/ions z to its direction & ext5t1 #bag1 #cbd ,nima-lung-la pass1 ii4 #cbd ,nima-p5di valley1 ii4 #abi ,nima ,ta%i1 *ief ( escort1 ii4 #cff ,no ,man's ,l&1 i4 #id ,nomads1 fir/ meet+ )1 i4 #agi1 #aha2 f ,naktsang1 #aii2 f ,s5kor1 ii4 #bij ,nubra1 i4 #fd ,nuns1 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #cec1 #cef2 9 ,m5dong-gompa1 ii4 #chf ,nurla /ation-h\se1 i4 #dc ,ny&i-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #aij2 p]iodic increase ( pilgrims to1 #aia2 halls (1 #aia ,nyang-*u1 riv]1 i4 #bid ,nyang-t-ki-pu1 h]mits' caves at1 ii4 #h ,nyanyo1 village 9 ,nepal1 ii4 #hj ,nyap*u-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #cic ,nyuku1 fri5dl9ess ( ,gova (1 ii4 #fj1 #fg2 arrival & camp at1 #fg ,oang ,gye1 son ( ,gov]nor ( ,saka-dzong1 ii4 #cec1 #cfh2 8 grief at %oot+ ( wild-goose1 #cfb ,o',connor1 ,major ,w4 ,f41 ,briti% ,trade ,ag5t at ,gyangtse1 i4 #bdd1 #chi2 int]pret] to ! ,ta%i ,lama 9 ,india1 #cbb2 welcome surprise f1 #cgg2 correspond5ce )1 #chi2 ,muham$ ,isa despat*$ to1 #cia1 #cif2 gift ( books f1 ii4 #dc1 #bbd ,ogawa1 ,pr(essor1 ,kioto ,univ]sity1 translation by1 ii4 #ahc ,ogorung-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #ac ,om mani padme hum1 ,tibetan sacr$ =mula1 i4 #dd2 ii4 #i1 #dh2 ,waddell's rem>ks on1 #bjd2 univ]sality (1 #bjd-bjf2 ,kpp5 & ,grnw$el's translation (1 #bjd ,ombo1 nomads f1 i4 #bjh ,ombo1 %rub us$ = fuel1 ii4 #bif ,pabla1 m\nta9 range1 i4 #bfj2 solution ( important geographical problem ( !1 #bfg1 #bgb ,pa*5 valley1 ii4 #aab1 #abf1 #afa ,pa*ung valley1 ii4 #aab1 #abf1 #afa ,padma ,sambhava1 f\nd] ( ,lamaism1 i4 #cab2 ii4 #bi ,pama1 species ( junip]1 ii4 #ac ,pama valley1 ii4 #gi ,pamzal1 i4 #gh1 #hj ,pan*5 ,r9po*e1 ! ,great ,preci\s ,tea*]4 ,see ,ta%i ,lama ,pan*or1 bro!r ( ,kamba ,ts5am1 ii4 #cdb2 acts z our guide1 #cff2 d\btful "* (1 #cgb1 #cgf1 #cgh ,panggong pass1 i4 #gj ,panggong-tso1 lake1 i4 #gj2 previ\s visit to1 #gj ,pangsetak1 camp at1 ii4 #de ,pankur c\ntry1 ii4 #bij ,p>ka1 baggage s5t to1 ii4 #aff2 camp at1 #agi ,p>ka ,tasam1 ?reats by1 ii4 #agh ,p>tridges1 %oot+ (1 causes suspicion1 ii4 #cjd ,p>va valley1 camp above !1 ii4 #cc ,pasa-guk1 village (1 ii4 #fe2 unreliable data 91 #ff ,passes ( ! ,trans-,himalaya1 pr9cipal1 ii4 #djh2 unkn[n1 cross$ by au?or1 #dji2 av]age height (1 #daj ,passport1 ,*9ese1 ultimate value (1 i4 #bii2 cancell+ (1 #cie2 t]ms ( my new1 #cih2 ii4 #ba1 #bg ,pa?ans ( escort1 i4 #bh2 difficulties )1 #ch2 dismiss$ f c>avan1 #da ,pati-bo1 di/rict (1 i4 #bjg ,patt]son1 ,capta91 ,jo9t-,commission] ( ,ladak1 k9dness (1 i4 #df1 #dg2 addresses c>avan be=e />t+1 #ea ,pe>s1 ,colonel1 ,resid5t at ,sr9ag>1 lett] f1 i4 #be ,p$ang-tsangpo1 valley ( !1 ii4 #cid1 #cif ,pel+1 or ,european1 i4 #bjj ,pemba ,ts]+1 ( ,saka1 ii4 #fj1 #fc1 #cdh1 #ced ,p5sa1 ,gova1 ii4 #cij ,p]e-pala1 ,nepalese m]*ants' s]ai 9 ,%igatse1 i4 #cgd ,p]manakbo-tang valley1 camp 91 i4 #bgi ,pet]1 ,rev4 ,mr41 ,leh1 i4 #ea1 #ed ,pike-la pass1 i4 #bac ,pilgrimage ( pro/ration1 description (1 ii4 #aii ,pilgrims1 meet+ )1 & pur*ases f1 i4 #bjj1 #bjb2 on ! ,tsangpo1 #bib2 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 #cec1 #cef2 devotional ex]cises1 #ceg2 my exp]i5ces ( ,mecca1 ii4 #fi2 ,h9du1 at ,manas>[>1 #acc1 #aec2 on j\rney r\nd ,kailas1 #aib1 #aig2 m5tal sket* ( great r\tes (1 #bjc ,p9zol+1 bridge at1 i4 #daf ,pobrang village1 meet+ ) ,engli% sportsm5 at1 i4 #ga2 re/ = man & bea/ at1 #gb2 arrangem5ts made = lett]s1 #gb2 our la/ po9t ( contact ) out] _w1 #gb1 #gd ,political complications3 ,tibetan ,gov]nm5t (ficials' visit 9 ,%igatse1 i4 #cge2 ord]s f ,tibetan & ,*9ese ,gov]nm5ts1 #chh1 #cia2 advice f ,gaw ,daloi1 #cib2 lett]s to ,*9ese & ,tibetan ,/ate (ficials1 #cic2 ,*9ese supremacy1 #cie2 lett] f ,*ang ,y9 ,tang1 #cig ,pong*5-la pass1 i4 #bfj ,poo1 ,moravian mission>ies' hospitality at1 ii4 #dag2 ,takk>'s return to1 #dah ,poon*1 mules f1 comp>$ ) ,tibetan1 i4 #bh2 tr\ble ) m5 f1 #ci ,porung valley1 sulphur\s spr+s 91 i4 #bfi ,poru-tso1 lake1 view (1 ii4 #cib ,potu-la pass1 i4 #db ,pray] =mula1 ,tibetan1 i4 #cja1 #ceg1 #djd1 #djh ,pray]-mills1 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #cfj2 9 ,ta%i-gembe1 #dac2 ubiquity (1 ii4 #bje ,prie/hood1 ord]s (1 i4 #cea2 dom9ation ( !1 9 ,tibet1 #chd ,pro/ration pilgrimage1 description (1 ii4 #aii ,pu-*u1 valley (1 ii4 #dj ,pul-tso1 lake1 camp at1 i4 #aca2 sudd5 /orms at1 #acc1 #acf2 s\nd+s & measurem5ts1 #acc-ace2 cru/ace 91 #acd2 my/]i\s camp-fire1 #ace ,pundi1 d\ble peaks (1 ii4 #aab1 #abf1 #aga ,pundi-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #afb ,pung-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #he ,punjab1 ,lieut5ant-,gov]nor ( !1 i4 #ab ,puntsuk1 ,tibetan nomad1 i4 #ahi1 #aia ,pup*ung-tsangpo1 riv]1 i4 #bfd ,purang1 epidemic ( smallpox at1 ii4 #ib ,pu/91 ,y>k& fur coat1 i4 #gd ,pusum village1 camp at1 i4 #dae ,quadt1 ,c\nt1 ,g]man ,consul-,g5]al1 d9n] giv5 at ,simla by1 i4 #af ,quetta1 i4 #e ,rabsang1 biographical details (1 i4 #aea ,races1 mixture (1 9 c>avan1 i4 #ca ,radak valley1 ii4 #cec ,raga-tasam1 camp at1 ii4 #da2 r\te ( ,rawl+'s exp$ition t\*$ at1 #da2 mess5g]s despat*$ to ,%igatse f1 #db2 camp life at1 #dc2 ,tibetan ,gov]nm5t's in/ructions reg>d+ au?or1 #dd2 visit ( ! ,gova (1 #fc ,raga-tsangpo1 riv]4 ,see ,dok-*u ,ragok valley1 i4 #bjf ,ra9s1 importance ( monsoon1 ii4 #fh2 our fir/1 s9ce leav+ ,ladak1 #gd ,rajputs ( escort1 i4 #bh2 ,muham$ ,isa's op9ion (1 #gh1 #ajc2 s5t home at ,lake ,light51 #ajb1 #ajf ,rakas-tal4 ,see ,langak-tso ,rambirpur1 village (1 i4 #fc ,r>tse pla91 arrival ( miss+ foll[]s at camp 9 !1 ii4 #cii ,ravak-la pass1 ii4 #de ,rav5s1 p]t9acity (1 i4 #adc1 #adh1 #aee1 #afd ,rawalp9di1 i4 #ba ,rawl+1 ,capta9 ,c4 ,g41 i4 #af1 #ea2 discov]s ,capta9 ,deasy's /ores at ! ,ye%il-kul1 #abi2 maps out ,ye%il-kul di/rict1 #acj1 #acg2 ,lake ,m>kham discov]$ & nam$ by1 #adh2 exp$ition to ,g>tok "u1 ii4 #ij ,rehim ,ali1 lessons 9 r[+ to1 i4 #ajh2 t]ror (1 9 /orm on ,lake ,light51 #aac2 attack$ by wild yak1 #agf2 sacrifice (f]$ up by1 #aid ,religions1 v>i\s1 9 c>avan1 i4 #ca1 #ec ,ribba*1 ,mr4 & ,mrs41 ,leh1 i4 #ee ,ri*5-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #acb ,ri*ung-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #abi ,rick%aws1 reason = _! abundance 9 ,simla1 i4 #ag ,rigi-hloma1 ,gova (1 int]e/+ in=mation by !1 ii4 #cic ,rik*51 ord] ( prie/hood1 i4 #cea ,r9ak*uts51 lake1 camp at1 i4 #aih ,r+d+1 ord] ( prie/hood1 i4 #cea ,rio*ung c\ntry1 camp 9 !1 ii4 #bgf ,robb]s1 9 ! ,*aktak-tsangpo c\ntry1 ii4 #cce2 ,tibetan puni%m5t (1 #ccf ,rob]t1 my fai?ful s]vant & meteorological assi/ant1 i4 #bi1 #ci1 #adb1 #aej2 m$ical skill (1 #aga2 home-sickness (1 ii4 #fb2 bad news receiv$ by1 #bai2 my p>t+ )1 #bbi ,rock valley1 ii4 #fg ,rock-draw+s 9 ,dok-*u valley1 i4 #dbb ,ronggak-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #ajd ,ru9s1 enc\rag+ effect ( discov]y (1 i4 #afi ,rukyok-tsangpo1 riv]1 & valley1 ii4 #fi1 #ccd ,rung valley1 biv\ac 91 i4 #bgg ,rung-*u1 riv]1 i4 #bhj ,rungma1 village (1 i4 #bhe1 #djc ,ryd] & ,wood1 maps by1 ref]r$ to1 ii4 #da1 #he1 #ij1 #dje ,sa*u-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #cbg2 camp at !1 #cfa ,sadung1 camp at1 i4 #djc ,saka1 p]mission = excursion grant$ by ,gov]nor (1 ii4 #dg2 arrival at1 #ea2 difficulties ) (ficials (1 #fj2 long+ to get away f1 #fa2 village life1 #fb2 se>*-p>ty f1 visit our camp1 #cde2 my return r\te discuss$ ) ! ,gov]nor (1 #cee-cei1 #cfd ,sakti1 village (1 i4 #fd ,saka-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #fb ,salt-c>avans1 ii4 #fd1 #cbc1 #cbi ,salt lakes1 gradual %r9k+ ( ,tibetan1 i4 #ia2 importance ( _! product1 #aic ,salutation1 ,tibetan =m (1 i4 #ahb1 #bdj1 #bhj1 #dbi ,samde-puk conv5t1 ii4 #a2 h]mit's cell ne>1 #b ,samkang1 or h]mit's cave1 i4 #bbd ,samo-tsangpo1 riv]1 fi% (1 ii4 #ajg ,samye-la pass1 hydrographical & geographical importance (1 ii4 #cbi2 unbrok5 cont9uance ( ! ,trans-,himalaya prov$ at1 #ccj2 n on ! same *a9 z ! ,angd5-la1 #ccj ,san*5-la pass1 ii4 #caj ,s&hills1 %ift+1 on ! ,brahmaputra1 ii4 #hf ,s&-sp\t1 ne> ,am*ok-yung1 ii4 #cf ,sang*5-*u1 riv]1 camp at !1 ii4 #cjh ,sangge-ngamo-buk1 visit f *ief (1 ii4 #chc ,sangmo-b]tik valley1 ii4 #cge ,sangmo-b]tik-la pass1 ii4 #cgg ,sangra1 m\nta91 i4 #bfd ,sangra-palhe valley1 i4 #bfe ,saspul1 i4 #dd ,satsot-la pass1 ii4 #cbb ,saund]s1 map by1 ii4 #bjb ,s*nabel1 ,rev4 ,mr41 mission>y at ,poo1 ii4 #dag ,se>*-p>ty f ,saka1 ii4 #cde2 _! in/ructions reg>d+ u1 #cdf1 #cdi2 my recognition ( ,pemba ,ts]+ & int]view )1 #cdh-cej2 agree to accompany !m to ,semoku1 #cej ,sekya mona/]y1 i4 #bha ,sela-la pass1 i4 #bfg1 #bgb2 triumphant reflections at1 #bfh ,sele-nang valley1 i4 #bff1 #bfh ,sel9-d1 camp at1 i4 #bfh ,selipuk-gompa mona/]y1 abbot (1 ii4 #cii2 e>?quake at1 #cii ,selung-urdu valley & glaci]1 ii4 #aef ,semoku1 j\rney to1 ii4 #cec2 meet+ ) ,gov]nor ( ,saka-dzong 91 #cee-cei2 mutual c\rtesies at1 #cfj ,s5es-yung-r+mo1 ii4 #bhe ,s5-kamba-la pass1 ii4 #ajc ,s5kor1 nomads f1 ii4 #bij ,seoy9na1 m\nta91 i4 #ahi ,s]*ung-la pass1 view f1 ii4 #fi ,s]$+1 hill1 i4 #bff ,s]me-l>tsa1 ii4 #dj ,s]olung valley1 camp at1 ii4 #aac ,s]olung-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #aab ,s]po-tsunge1 m\nta91 i4 #bff ,s]pun-lam1 !1 great high-road (1 ii4 #cba1 #cid ,s]%ik-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #bi ,s]tsang-*u1 riv]1 visit ( ,tibetans at1 i4 #bag ,%a-kang%am1 m\nta91 ii4 #cjb1 #cjf1 #caj1 #cbb1 #cha ,%ak-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #bj ,%a-la pass1 ii4 #cf ,%alung-la pass1 ii4 #cga ,%am valley1 camp 91 i4 #bge ,%amsang1 camp at1 ii4 #hh ,%angbuk-la pass1 ii4 #be1 #cb ,%ang-*u1 riv]1 i4 #bgb ,%apka1 camp at1 ii4 #ie ,%apku-*u /ream1 ii4 #ig ,%>gul1 lama temple at1 i4 #db ,%>-tso1 lake1 ii4 #cjf ,%awe1 ,dr41 ,leh1 i4 #ed ,%eep1 return ( our miss+1 i4 #afe2 wild1 #agd2 ii4 #beb1 #caj1 #chj2 us$ z pack-animals1 #bhi1 #ccd ,%eep-driv+1 au?or's inaptitude =1 ii4 #bii ,%em5-tso1 lake1 camp at1 ii4 #bgj2 j\rney along1 #bgb ,%]r+1 ,mr4 ,c4 ,a41 ii4 #abh2 k9dness (1 & ,mrs41 #add ,%]yak1 camp 91 ii4 #ib ,%ey mona/]y1 i4 #fa ,%ialung valley1 camp ne>1 ii4 #bcf ,%ib-la-yilung valley1 i4 #bga ,%igatse1 arrival at1 i4 #bie2 int]view ) comm&] ( ,*9ese g>rison1 #bif2 rema9s ( c>avan at1 #big2 visit$ by ,tibetan (ficials at1 #bih2 impression made by my ,*9ese passport1 #bii2 p]mission to att5d ,new ,ye> ,fe/ival 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 #bii2 description ( ,fe/ival1 #cja-cae2 return ,ma ,daloi's visit1 #cae2 arrangem5ts = visit to ! ,ta%i ,lama1 #caf2 ar*itecture (1 #cdj2 ,dzong (1 #cdj1 #cgg2 sports-meet+ at1 #cda-cde2 ,*9ese ,new ,ye> celebration1 #cde2 gruesome fun]al cu/oms1 #cgj2 ,lhasa ,gov]nm5t (ficials' visit to me1 #cge2 arrival ( correspond5ce1 #cgg2 assi/ance r5d]$ by ,gulam ,kadir1 #cgg2 m>ket-place (1 #cgh2 sy/em ( espionage 91 #cgi2 sket*es ( wom5 91 #chj2 v>iety ( types & co/umes1 #chb2 visit to ,kung ,gu%uk1 #che2 ,*9ese intrigues 91 #cij2 review ( my position1 #cid2 sudd5 cordiality ( au?orities 91 #cih2 =mal c\ncil held1 & my return r\te specifi$1 #cih2 a can9e int]lude 91 #cii2 prep>ations = dep>ture f1 #djj2 mess5g]s despat*$ f ,raga-tasam to1 ii4 #db ,%ipki1 village (1 ii4 #dag ,%ipki-la pass1 f>ewell to ,tibet f1 ii4 #dag ,%oot+ competitions1 ,tibetan1 i4 #cdc ,%ovo-tso1 lake1 camp on %ore (1 ii4 #cif ,%ukkur ,ali1 uni=m *e]fulness (1 i4 #eb ,%uru-tso1 lake1 i4 #baf2 ii4 #be2 t]races (1 #cc2 unusual direction (1 #cc2 /orm on1 #cd2 %ape (1 #cd ,%yok valley1 wret*$ j\rney ?r\gh !1 ii4 #bcj-bcb2 f>ewell fe/ival 9 village1 #bcb2 c>avan d]elicts 91 #bcg2 can9e happy ev5t1 #bch2 enorm\s wa/age ( horses 91 #bdj1 #bde2 sc>city ( prov5d]1 #bda2 our complicat$ situation1 #bdb2 mis]able camp+-places1 #bdb1 #bdf2 ,mohamm$an hymn 91 #bdf ,simla1 sc5]y ( railway j\rney to1 i4 #e2 arrival at1 & welcome by ,sir ,francis ,y\nghusb&1 #f2 anxi\s mom5ts 91 #g2 ,/ate functions 9 ,vic]egal ,lodge1 #ab1 #ag2 ii4 #dbj2 rick%aws 91 i4 #ag2 ,"l ,kit*5]'s h\se 91 #ah2 ii4 #dbb2 dep>ture f1 i4 #bj2 return to1 ii4 #dbj2 resid5ce 9 ,vic]egal ,lodge1 i4 #ac2 ii4 #dbj2 hospitality ( ,colonel ,dunlop ,smi? & ,"l ,kit*5]1 #dbj1 #dbb2 lecture be=e ! ,vic]egal ,c\rt1 #dba2 good-bye to my ,ladakis & ,little ,puppy 91 #dbb ,s9d1 valley ( !1 i4 #ce ,s+i-buk1 camp at1 ii4 #baj ,s+i-*ava1 ii4 #bab ,s+i-kabab1 s\rce ( ! ,indus1 ii4 #baj1 #bab ,s+i-tsangpo1 or ,indus1 ii4 #baj ,s+i-yra1 ii4 #bab ,s+rul1 camp at1 i4 #fe ,sir*ung1 village (1 i4 #dbe ,skulls z dr9k+-vessels1 ,liktse-gompa1 ii4 #ge ,sl$ges1 on ! ,ngangtse-tso1 i4 #bbf ,smallpox epidemic at ,purang1 ii4 #ib ,snor+ ,kun*uk1 ii4 #bii1 #ccc2 new title =1 #cgi ,sn[/orm1 a t]rific1 ii4 #bfi ,sogb>ong ,ts]+ ,tundup1 ,tibetan nomad1 ii4 #bhh ,soma-tsangpo1 riv]1 camp at1 ii4 #chj2 j\rney along !1 #chf ,sonam ,ngurbu1 ,gov]nor ( ,*ok*u1 ii4 #cii ,sonam>g1 biv\ac at1 i4 #cg ,sonam ,ts]+1 lead] ( advance c>avan1 i4 #ea2 9 *>ge ( ! mules1 #gb2 po9ts out ,deasy's depot1 #abi ,s valley1 i4 #bhd ,s\rce ( ! ,brahmaputra1 ii4 #if1 #aja2 ( ! ,sutlej1 #abi1 #aec1 #ahj2 ( ! ,indus1 #bab ,spanglung valley1 camp ne>1 i4 #gh ,spittol mona/]y1 i4 #de ,sports1 ,tibetan1 i4 #cda-cde ,sr9ag>1 sc5]y ( j\rney to1 i4 #bb2 arrival at1 #bc2 d9n]-table talk ab\t au?or1 #bd2 int]view ) ! ,mah>aja ( ,ka%mir's private secret>y1 #bd2 fte at1 #bg2 equipm5t ( c>avan1 #bh2 dep>ture f1 #cj2 puppies tak5 f1 #cd2 plates & rock specim5s s5t to1 #ajc ,srong ,tsan ,ganpo1 wives (1 i4 #ccc ,/agna-gompa mona/]y1 i4 #fc ,/ockholm1 dep>ture f1 i4 #d ,/ok1 ! ,raja (1 lett] ( recomm5dation f1 i4 #eg1 #bih ,/okpa1 village (1 i4 #eg ,/oliczka1 ,dr41 monum5t 9 ,leh1 i4 #ei ,/one1 impressions 91 i4 #ccg1 #djf ,/orm1 a ?irty-days'1 ii4 #bhc ff4 ,sulphur spr+s1 ,*uta di/rict1 i4 #hb2 9 ,porung valley1 #bfi2 at ! ,*unit-tso1 ii4 #cbc ,sultak1 i4 #fg ,sumdang-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #cih ,sun1 eclipse ( !1 i4 #beb ,sung-*u1 riv]1 ii4 #aha ,surnge-la pass1 ii4 #djj ,sur-la pass1 ii4 #cic ,sutlej1 !1 s\rce (1 ii4 #abi1 #aec1 #ahj1 #ahh2 old b$ (1 #aha2 ,tibetan "n (1 & ass]tions reg>d+ its orig91 #ahb2 translation ( ,*9ese extract z to its s\rce1 #ahc2 its s\rce & t ( ! ,tage-tsangpo ! same1 #ahd1 #ahh2 accuracy ( ,*i ,*ao ,nan's /atem5ts reg>d+1 #ahe2 ,colonel ,burr>d on dra9age area (1 #ahg ,tabie-tsaka1 lake1 salt-c>avans f1 ii4 #fd1 #cbc2 location ( !1 #cbb2 view (1 #cib ,tag>1 village (1 i4 #fd ,tage-bup valley1 ii4 #aje ,tage-tsangpo riv]1 ii4 #aje1 #ajg2 measurem5ts (1 #abi2 its s\rce t ( ! ,sutlej1 #ahd1 #ahh ,tagla ,ts]+1 *ief ( ,sangge-ngamo-buk1 visit f1 ii4 #chc ,tagrak-tsangpo1 riv]1 i4 #bfa1 #bfd ,tagramo*e di/rict1 biv\ac 91 ii4 #aje ,takbur di/rict1 high-h&$ behavi\r ( *ief (1 ii4 #di1 #ej2 abundance ( game 91 #ej ,takbur-la pass1 ii4 #ej ,takk>1 our ,tibetan dog1 ii4 #cje1 #cjg1 #cai2 8 antipa?y to ,tibetans1 #cbb1 #cgg2 dev\rs wolf-cub1 #cii2 returns to ,poo1 #dah ,takyung ,lama1 abbot ( ,m5dong-gompa1 ii4 #cae1 #cah ,ta-la1 or ,horse ,pass1 view f1 i4 #bgh ,talkan1 or roa/$ meal1 i4 #ec ,tambak valley1 ii4 #hd ,tam*ok-kamba 7,brahmaputra71 riv]1 i4 #djc1 #dag ,tamlung-la pass1 important wat]%$ (1 ii4 #ajd1 #abi ,tamlung-tso1 lake1 ii4 #ajd ,tanak 7,black ,horse7 valley1 camp 91 i4 #bhf1 #djc ,tanak-pu*u valley1 i4 #bhf ,tang ,d>94 ,see ,*ang ,y9 ,tang ,tangna1 village (1 i4 #dag ,tang-yung prov9ce1 ,tibetan visitors f1 i4 #bab1 #bad ,tang-yung-tsaka1 lake1 i4 #bjh ,tanjur1 "o ( ! two ,tibetan ,bibles1 i4 #dab ,tanka1 or pictorial bann]1 i4 #cah ,tankse1 auxili>y horses hir$ f1 i4 #ej1 #fg2 camp & re/ at1 #fg2 fe/ivities 9 c>avan at1 #fh2 m5 f1 petition to be all[$ to return home1 #ajb2 p>t+ ) my ,ladakis at1 ii4 #bbe ,tankse1 riv]1 i4 #fg ,t>bung-la pass1 ii4 #be ,t>*5-labrang1 ii4 #aij1 #aih1 #bjb ,t>go-gangri1 view ( !1 ii4 #bj1 #bb1 #cha2 glaci]s (1 #be1 #cb ,t>go-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #ba2 valley (1 #bb2 our progress /opp$ at !1 #bf2 t]races (1 #bf1 #cj ,t>got-la pass1 ii4 #cj ,t>gyal+-gompa mona/]y1 camp bel[1 ii4 #fd2 intol]ant behavi\r ( lamas (1 #fe2 plund]$ by robb]s1 #cae ,t>matse-tso1 lake1 i4 #bad ,t>ok-tso1 lake1 position (1 ii4 #cbe2 describ$1 #cia ,t>po*e1 or votive pole1 i4 #bhj ,t>t+-*oro1 village (1 i4 #djd ,t>t+-gompa mona/]y1 i4 #bhc1 #dje2 sepul*res ( high prie/s (1 #djf2 prep>ations = deceas$ lama's fun]al pyre at1 #djg2 reflections on mona/ic life1 #djh ,tasam1 or high-road1 ii4 #da ,tasang-la pass1 ii4 #hd ,ta%i1 despat*$ to ,%igatse1 ii4 #db2 8 return & adv5tures1 #ga ,ta%i-gembe mona/]y1 i4 #bah1 #daa2 ! two ,tibetan ,bibles 91 #dab2 temples (1 #dab2 incongru\s ,european figures 91 #dac2 pray]-cyl9d]s 91 #dac2 brilliant col\r+ (1 #dad ,ta%i ,lama1 !1 increas$ pre/ige (1 i4 #cjg1 #cbc2 k9dness to u at ,new ,ye> ,fe/ival1 #caj2 my visit to1 #cag2 dress & g5]al appe>ance (1 #cai2 8 k9dly reception ( au?or1 #cai2 intellig5ce & %rewd que/ions (1 #cbj1 #ced2 8 pleasant recollections ( visit to ,india1 #cba2 widespread p[] (1 #cbb2 previ\s visits ( ,europeans to1 #cbb2 attributes & functions ( ! ,dalai ,lama &1 #cbc2 fav\rs grant$ to au?or by1 #cbd2 m$ic9e-*e/ pres5t$ to1 #cbe2 ineffaceable impressions left by1 #cbe1 #cee2 c]emonies obs]v$ on ! approa*+ dea? ( a1 #cbg2 me?od ( *oos+ 8 successor1 #cbg2 mausoleums ( previ\s ,ta%i ,lamas1 #ccj2 record l5g? ( s]vice ( fir/1 #cca2 visit ( ?ird ,ta%i ,lama to ,pek91 #ccd2 footpr9t (1 #ccg2 photograph tak5 (1 #ced2 pres5ts gifts to au?or1 #cee2 rigidly prescrib$ life (1 #cef2 8 anxi\s que/ion+ ( au?or1 #cib2 f>ewell greet+s f1 #djb ,ta%i-lunpo1 ,new ,ye> ,fe/ival 91 i4 #cja-caf2 a cloi/] t[n1 #ccj2 ! ,labrang1 #ccj2 a]ial /reet sy/em 91 #ccj2 mausoleums ( e>li] ,ta%i ,lamas1 #ccj-cch2 date ( f\ndation1 #cca2 libr>y (1 #ccc2 temple ( ,tsong ,kapa1 #cce2 a sacr$ /aircase1 #ccg2 cl]ical tailors 91 #cdh2 religi\s c]emonies witness$1 #cdh ff42 grades & numb]s ( monks1 #cea1 #ceb2 bells (1 #cea2 nuns & pilgrims 91 #cec1 #cef2 au?or's int]view ) ! ,ta%i ,lama1 #ced2 pilgrims' devotional ex]cises 91 #ceg2 s\rces ( income1 #ceh2 monks' life 91 #ceh1 #cff2 pray]-mills (1 #cfj2 tea a fav\rite bev]age 91 #cei1 #cfa2 kit*5 (1 #cfa2 ! wall+-up ( c]ta9 monks1 #cfc2 ! ,d5a-lhakang temple1 #cfe2 manufacture ( images1 #cfg2 fun]al cu/oms1 #cfi2 la/ visit to1 #cic ,tayep-p>va-la pass1 ii4 #cig ,tea1 ,tibetan1 i4 #bdg2 monks' fondness =1 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 #cei2 enorm\s infusions (1 #cfa ,tea-pots1 co/ly1 i4 #cej ,teh]an1 ,*ri/mas #aije sp5t 91 ii4 #bdh ,tela-mata-la pass1 ii4 #cig ,telegrams to ,briti% ,prime ,m9i/]1 i4 #h1 #cij ,temp]ature1 sudd5 *ange (1 i4 #ge2 records ( l[1 #aee1 #agc1 #aii1 #bjg1 #beh1 #bgd2 l[e/ record$ by au?or 9 ,asia1 ii4 #bei ,temple1 lama1 i4 #db ,t5ga1 ,tibetan co91 i4 #ef ,t]i-nam-tso1 ! heav5ly lake1 ii4 #cha2 its sal9ity1 #chd2 j\rney along s\!rn %ore1 #chd2 diff]5t pronunciations1 & mean+ ( ! "n1 #chd2 ext5t (1 & height above sea-level1 #chd ,t]kung-rung valley1 ,lhasa c>avan 91 i4 #bgj2 importance ( road ?r\gh1 #bgj ,teta-la pass1 view f1 ii4 #chj ,?akur ,jai ,*&1 ,g>tok1 ii4 #ajg1 #bae1 #dag2 provisions & lett]s f1 #add ,?irte51 ! numb]1 prom95ce (1 9 au?or's j\rney1 i4 #bj1 #bdi2 ii4 #bcf ,?irty-days' /orm1 a1 ii4 #bhc ff4 ,tibetan ,gov]nm5t1 !1 v9dictive treatm5t ( ! ,gov]nor ( ,naktsang by1 i4 #bdc1 #bea1 #cgf2 proclamation on retiral ( ,briti% exp$ition1 #bde2 au?or visit$ by two (ficials f1 #cge1 #cgf2 sy/em ( spies1 #cgi2 ord]s to au?or to leave ! c\ntry1 #chh2 increas$ /r+5cy (1 reg>d+ ,europeans1 ii4 #cef ,tibetan language1 au?or's lessons 91 ii4 #bgg ,tigu-tang1 dang]\s roadway (1 i4 #dcj ,tikze1 mona/]y & village (1 i4 #fa2 camp at1 #fb ,t+-la pass1 view f1 ii4 #bb ,tirtapuri mona/]y1 p>t+ ) foll[]s at1 ii4 #daf ,titles1 high-s\nd+1 appli$ to au?or1 ii4 #cic ,toa-nadsum1 biv\ac at1 i4 #bfb ,tok*51 ! ,gova (1 ii4 #ajg1 #aaj2 c>avan r$uc$ at1 #ajg2 valley (1 #aaj2 return to1 #djj2 dep>ture f1 #dae ,tok-jonsung1 biv\ac at1 ii4 #ia ,tokpas1 ,tibetan gold-digg]s1 i4 #ahi ,tombs ( ! ,ta%i ,lamas1 i4 #ccj-cch ,tong1 ! ,gova (1 i4 #dbd ,tong-tso1 biv\ac on %ore ( !1 ii4 #cjb ,tongue1 protrusion ( !1 ,tibetan salutation1 i4 #bdj1 #bhj1 #dbi ,too?1 ,mr4 ,lucas1 ! la/ ,european se5 by au?or = two ye>s1 i4 #ga ,topelius1 ,*ri/mas song ( ! poet1 quot$1 i4 #bai ,tormak>u1 m\nta91 i4 #bfd ,torno-%apko1 unfri5dl9ess ( nomads at1 i4 #bag ,totl+-gompa mona/]y1 news f ! out] _w at1 ii4 #daf ,tova-tova1 di/rict (1 i4 #bfb ,tradum1 ! ,gova (1 ii4 #fj1 #fi1 #gj1 #gc1 #hc2 camp at village (1 #gb2 excursion f1 #gc ,tradum-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #gc2 h]mit's dwell+ at1 #gc ,trans-,himalaya1 !1 au?or's fir/ cross+ (1 i4 #bfh2 geographical & climatic importance (1 #bgc2 ii4 #bj1 #ce2 approa* to ma9 cre/ (1 #ac2 second cross+ (1 #ai2 ?ird cross+1 #ce2 f\r? & fif? cross+s (1 #bji1 #bae2 six? cross+1 #bci2 its unbrok5 cont9uance prov$1 #ccj2 sev5? & eigh? cross+s1 #cgg1 #djj2 previ\s attempts to map out1 & books treat+ (1 #dja-dje2 ,ryd] & ,wood's be>+s (1 #dje2 /atem5t reg>d+ wall-maps 9 ,v5ice1 #djf2 pr9cipal passes (1 #djh2 previ\sly unkn[n passes cross$ by au?or1 #dji2 l5g? & bread? (1 & av]age height ( passes1 #daj2 g5]al comp>ison (1 ) ! ,himalayan sy/em1 #daj2 au?or's reason = use ( "n1 #dab2 op9ions = & aga9/ ! title1 #dab1 #dac ,treaty1 new1 betwe5 ,great ,brita9 & ,russia1 ii4 #bba ,tree1 miracul\s1 9 ,kum-bum mona/]y1 i4 #cce ,tsa-*u-tsangpo1 riv]1 junction ) upp] ,brahmaputra1 ii4 #gd ,tsakts]kan1 au?or's (ficial att5dant 9 ,%igatse1 i4 #cjb1 #cec ,tsalam-nakta-la pass1 ii4 #cgf ,tsamba1 or p>*$ meal1 i4 #bae ,tsangpo 7upp] ,brahmaputra71 riv]1 i4 #bhd2 =mation & f]tility ( valley1 #bhd1 #bhe2 v>y+ nom5clature (1 #bhg2 description ( boats on1 #bhh2 v>i$ sc5]y (1 #bij1 #bic2 day-dreams on1 #bia2 pilgrim p>ties on1 #bib1 #bic2 du/-/orms1 #djb1 #djc ,tsasa-la pass1 ii4 #ge ,tse*ung-tso1 lake1 ii4 #ie ,tsepagm$1 seat$ figure ( ,buddha1 i4 #cee ,ts]+1 cook to au?or1 i4 #aeb2 loquacity (1 #aeg1 #afa2 vocal p[]s (1 ii4 #ac ,ts]+ ,dava1 ,tibetan nomad1 i4 #ahi1 #aia ,tseti-la pass1 ii4 #bjh ,tseti-la*5-la pass1 ii4 #bji ,tso1 di/rict (1 ii4 #hj ,tso-kh>ki-tsangpo1 riv]1 ii4 #hj ,tso-mavang4 ,see ,manas>[> ,tsong ,kapa1 temple (1 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #cce1 #cfb2 re=ms ,lamaism & introduces mona/ic celibacy1 #cce ,tsongpun ,ta%i1 m]*ant f ,lhasa1 ii4 #cjh1 #caa2 pur*ases f1 #cae2 visits our camp1 #caf2 8 suspicions1 #cag ,tso-niti1 pools (1 ii4 #ic ,tso-niti-k>gang pass1 ii4 #ib ,tso-nyak1 lake1 ii4 #ajf ,tso-ri1 or ,lake ,m\nta91 !1 i4 #bai ,tsotot-k>po1 lake1 ii4 #hc ,tsuk*ung-*ang pass1 i4 #dag ,tsumtul-pu mona/]y1 biv\ac on ro( (1 ii4 #bjb ,tubges1 huntsman to c>avan1 ii4 #cbc ,tugd5-gompa mona/]y1 i4 #dji2 /atues 91 #daj ,tugri-la pass1 ii4 #ajc ,tugu-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #acj2 wool-m>ket at1 #acj2 int]e/+ picture 91 #aca2 %r9e ( lake-god 91 #aca2 monks' (f]+ to _! god on au?or's behalf1 #ade2 translation ( inscription 91 #aed ,tugu-lhamo1 height1 i4 #bjf ,tuksum1 ! ,gova (1 ii4 #hf2 grants p]mission to au?or to travel on s\? side ( riv]1 #hg ,tumsang valley1 i4 #bfh ,tundup ,sonam1 huntsman to c>avan1 i4 #aca1 #aci1 #add1 #aej1 #aed1 #afd1 #aia2 despat*$ to ,%igatse1 ii4 #db2 8 return & adv5tures1 #ga ,turke/an1 ,ea/]n1 o/5sible object ( exp$ition1 i4 #bc1 #be2 passport =1 reque/$ f ,sw$i% ,m9i/] 9 ,london1 #be ,tuta1 camp at1 ii4 #chi ,tuto-pukpa1 m\nta91 ii4 #gb ,tyn*ung valley1 camp 91 ii4 #ajd ,ugyu1 ,tibetan y\?1 8 wond]ful recov]y f bullet-w\nd1 ii4 #df ,ujam-tso1 lake1 ii4 #he ,umbo di/rict1 camp 9 !1 ii4 #ia ,u%y1 village (1 ii4 #cfa ,u%y-la pass1 ii4 #cfa ,ut5sils1 ,tibetan dome/ic1 ii4 #ae ,vezir ,vez>at1 !1 i4 #da2 au?or's headqu>t]s 9 h\se (1 at ,leh1 #de ,vic]egal ,lodge1 ,simla1 ,/ate functions 91 i4 #ab1 #ag2 ii4 #dbj2 au?or's qu>t]s 91 i4 #ac2 ii4 #dbj2 description (1 i4 #ad ,vultures1 ab&onm5t ( ,tibetan dead to !1 i4 #cga2 ii4 #aa ,waddell1 "w on ,buddhism by1 cit$1 i4 #cbi n42 op9ion on mona/ic seclusion1 ii4 #i2 on ,tibetan sacr$ =mula1 #bjd ,wakkha1 riv]1 i4 #da ,walk]1 ,dr4 ,gilb]t1 ,simla1 pres5ts f1 ii4 #bbc ,wall5b]g1 ,h]r ,g4 ,o41 ,sw$i% ,ambassador 9 ,pek91 i4 #cia ,wall-pa9t+s 9 ,tugu-gompa1 ii4 #acj ,wea!r1 ,tibetan1 i4 #gd1 #hh1 #ij1 #afj ,webb]1 ,?omas1 on s\rces ( ! ,brahmaputra1 ii4 #hi ,:isky1 a tonic = mules1 ii4 #bfj1 #bfd ,wild]ness1 ! call ( !1 i4 #a ,wolves1 p]si/5cy (1 i4 #adc1 #afh1 #agh1 #aih ,wom51 descriptions ( ,%igatse1 i4 #chj2 uni=m dirt9ess (1 #cec1 #chj ,wool-m>ket 9 ,tugu-gompa1 ii4 #acj ,wrangel1 ,c\nt1 ,sw$i% ,m9i/] 9 ,london1 passport reque/$ f1 i4 #be1 #bii ,yaks1 z bea/s ( burd51 i4 #ge1 #ahc1 #aih2 ii4 #fd1 #cbc1 #cbi2 abundance ( wild1 i4 #agc2 ,rehim ,ali's adv5ture ) a1 #agf ,yalloa-*ampa1 holy ap>tm5t 9 ,ta%i-lunpo1 i4 #ccb ,yamba1 lieut5ant to *ief ( ,t>ok-%ung1 ii4 #cij ,yam*uk1 village (1 ii4 #hj ,yam*uk-pu valley1 ii4 #hj ,yanggo-gompa mona/]y1 ii4 #abi1 #acb ,yapkak1 plant us$ z =age & fuel1 i4 #hc1 #ia ,y]e-tsangpo1 riv]1 i4 #bha ,ye%il-kul1 lake1 view (1 i4 #aai2 antelope-traps at1 #aai2 int5se saltness (1 #abj2 s\nd+s on1 #abj2 *oice betwe5 %ipwreck & wolves1 #abb2 /orm on1 #abd2 a freez+ night1 #abe2 ,deasy's depot discov]$ by ,rawl+1 #abi2 previ\s travell]s' visits1 #acj ,ye-%ung valley1 camp 91 i4 #bha1 #dji2 mona/]ies 91 #daa ,yildan1 hunt]s f1 ii4 #bge ,yimba ,ta%i1 abbot ( ,l+a-gompa1 i4 #dca ,y\nghusb&1 ,sir ,francis1 welcomes au?or to ,simla1 i4 #f2 exp$ition to ,lhasa ref]r$ to1 #aa2 p>t+ )1 #bj2 lett] z to passport f1 #bf2 recomm5ds ,muham$ ,isa to au?or1 #cj1 #df ,yulgunluk1 ii4 #bce ,yumba-mats51 ii4 #bae ,yung*51 ord] ( prie/hood1 i4 #cea ,zambul1 numb]d> ( ,pobrang1 i4 #gc1 #hg ,zoji-la pass1 difficulties ( c>avan 9 !1 i4 #ch ,zugmay]1 ,au/rian naturali/1 i4 #acj ,,! ,,end ,pr9t$ by ,r4 ,r4 ,,cl>k1 ,,limit$1 ,ed9burgh4 ,,books ,,on ,,india ,,=ty-,,"o ,,ye>s ,,9 ,,india4 ,f ,subalt]n to ,comm&]-9-,*ief4 ,by ,field-,m>%al ,,e>l ,,rob]ts1 ,v4,c4 ,libr>y ,edition4 #b vols41 #hvo4 #cfs4 ,popul> ,edition4 ,extra ,cr[n #hvo4 #fs4 ,,! ,,/ory ,,( ,,! ,,guides4 ,by ,colonel ,g4 ,j4 ,,y\nghusb&1 ,c4,b41 ,que5's ,own ,corps ( ,guides4 ,) ,illu/rations4 #hvo4 #gs4 #f;d4 net4 ,a ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,! ,,indian ,,mut9y4 ,by ,t4 ,,rice ,,holmes1 ,m4,a4 ,extra ,cr[n #hvo4 #abs4 #f;d4 ,,india3 ,its ,adm9i/ration & ,progress4 ,by ,sir ,,john ,,/ra*ey1 ,g4,c4,s4,i4 #hvo4 #ajs4 net4 ,,impressions ,,( ,,india4 ,by ,sir ,h4 ,,craik1 ,k4,c4,b41 ,m4,p4 ,cr[n #hvo4 #cs4 net4 ,,india3 ,its ,life & ,?\ght4 ,by ,,john ,p4 ,,jones1 ,d4,d41 ,illu/rat$4 #hvo4 #ajs4 #f;d4 net4 ,,life ,,( ,,! ,,m>quis ,,( ,,dalh\sie4 ,) ,portraits1 ,map1 & ,plans4 ,by ,sir ,w4 ,,lee-,,w>n]4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #bes4 net4 ,,cawnpore4 ,by ! ,"r ,hon4 ,sir ,g4 ,o4 ,,trevelyan1 ,b>t4 ,cr[n #hvo4 #cs4 #f;d4 net4 ,,! 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