,,hints ,,on ,,cheese-,,making1 ,,for ,,the ,,dairyman1 ,,the ,,factoryman1 ,,and ,,the ,,manufacturer4 ,,by ,t4 ,d4 ,,curtis4 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,roberts1 ,,printer1 ,,morning ,,herald ,,establishment4 #ahgj4 ,entered according to ,act of ,congress1 in the year #ahfi1 by ,,thomas ,,day ,,curtis1 ,in the ,clerk's ,office of the ,district ,court for the ,northern ,district of ,new ,york4 ,,introductory4 ,the following pages comprise the series of articles which appeared1 during the last season1 in the columns of the ,,utica ,,morning and ,,weekly ,,herald4 ,it is not claimed that they exhaust the several questions discussed2 but it is believed that they constitute the most practical treatise on cheese-making that has yet appeared1 and that they embrace the leading features and indicate the more advanced methods of the art as practiced by the best manufacturers4 ,every experienced cheese-maker may find something in them to object to and criticise1 as there is diversity of opinion on many1 as yet1 not definitely settled questions4 ,the writer would not check honest and intelligent criticism1 if he could1 but1 on the contrary1 encourage it4 ,nor would he have others adopt any of the suggestions1 methods or practices herein mentioned1 if they think they have better of their own4 ,he would rather stimulate independent thought and action1 and urge each to observe closely1 experiment thoroughly1 and be guided by his own experience4 ,beginners1 without a complete knowledge of all the branches of cheese-making1 it is believed1 will be able to glean from these pages what will afford valuable assistance to them2 but they should accept nothing as conclusive4 ,there is much to be discovered and learned about cheese-making4 ,those who have worked at the business for years1 without material progress1 are not as likely to make important discoveries or improvements as those who now or may hereafter come to a knowledge of the subject with fresh minds and faculties newly stimulated4 ,they will begin where the old cheese-makers leave off1 and ought to be able to make advances in the work thus far developed by their predecessors4 ,that each may keep his wits about him and add something valuable to our present stock of knowledge in regard to cheese-making1 is the earnest wish of ,,the ,,author4 ,,utica1 ,january1 #ahgj4 ,,contents4 ,,page4 ,,introductory1 #e ,,building ,,cheese ,,factories1 #i ,,production ,,of ,,milk1 #ad ,,composition ,,of ,,milk1 #ah ,,taints ,,and ,,odors1 #bc ,,cooling ,,milk1 #bg ,,delivering ,,milk1 #ca ,,receiving ,,milk1 #cf ,,big ,,averages1 #dj ,,conductors1 ,,strainers1 ,c41 #de ,,color1 #di ,,rennets1 #ee ,,preparing ,,rennet1 #fj ,,setting1 #fd ,,cutting ,,curds1 #fh ,,heat1 #gc ,,acid1 #gi ,,dipping ,,curds1 #hd ,,salting ,,curds1 #hg ,,tainted ,,milk1 #ia ,,curing1 #ic ,,greasing ,,cheese1 #ie ,,skippers1 #ii ,,cheddar ,,process1 #ajb ,,hints ,,on ,,cheese-,,making4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,building ,,cheese-,,factories4 ,we frequently receive inquiries from parties who contemplate building cheese-factories1 regarding certain details which none but those who have actual experience can readily carry out4 ,for the benefit of all needing such information1 we have taken pains to prepare the following3 ,small or medium-sized factories now seem to be in order4 ,people do not like to carry milk long distances1 and this fact undoubtedly accounts for the tendency to small factories1 conveniently located4 ,we will give the size of a building suitable for a dairy of #cjj to #ejj cows4 ,let it be #hj by #bf feet1 with #af feet posts and two floors4 ,from one end of the lower story take #bd feet for a make room1 leaving the remainder for a curing room4 ,should more than one vat be used1 the make room will need to be about six feet larger one way4 ,it may be made so by taking the space off from the curing room1 or by putting a projection on the side4 ,the upper story will be used for curing1 but should be partitioned off the same as the lower story4 ,the room over the make room should be lathed and plastered1 and provided with heating apparatus1 so as to make a suitable place for curing early and late made cheese4 ,the building may be cheap1 or as expensive as desired4 ,either setters and ranges1 or the old style tables1 may be used4 ,the latter1 since small-sized cheeses have come in fashion1 are the more common4 ,they are quite as cheap and convenient1 and by using them1 factorymen avoid the annoyance consequent upon the pretended patent right which is claimed on the rails and turners4 ,we shall not recommend any particular style of vat1 since by doing so we should seem to condemn others4 ,but we will mention the fact that for small factories1 vats with self-heaters are preferable and the more economical4 ,a self-heater can be set up and run anywhere1 with a piece of stove-pipe to conduct off the smoke1 and the expense of boilers1 mason-work1 etc41 is avoided4 ,five or six cords of maple stove-wood1 split fine and well seasoned1 will run a good self-heater through the season4 ,the appearance of a dairy depends very much on the trueness1 as well as uniformity in hight1 of the cheeses4 ,good presses and hoops are therefore essential1 and save a great deal of trouble as well as give a great deal of satisfaction4 ,the press1 therefore1 needs to be made heavy and strong1 so as not to spring or warp4 ,let the sill be #ad by #d inches2 the beam1 #aj by #f inches2 posts1 #d by #ad inches1 slanted from the sill upward to #aj1 the width of the beam4 ,the sill and beam should be boxed into the posts three-fourths of an inch1 and the posts should extend above the beam some #d inches or more4 ,the top of the sill should stand about #b feet from the floor4 ,the space between the sill and beam should be #b feet #d inches4 ,the lateral space allowed for each hoop should be #b feet2 and in each space between the hoops the sill and beam should be held in place by seven-eighths inch rods of iron4 ,in the first space from either end1 a single rod is sufficient2 the next should have two rods1 and so on1 alternately4 ,the single rod should extend through the middle of the sill and beam1 and have heavy washers attached to each end1 to prevent the head or nut from settling into the wood4 ,the double rods should go through the edges of the beam and sill1 and through heavy washers of iron on the bottom of the sill1 and through strong straps extending across the top of the beam4 ,the presses should be made for pressing four or six cheeses1 and be made of hard1 seasoned timber4 ,the screws should be #a inch4 ,of the various kinds of screws introduced1 we know of none better than the old-fashioned ones1 with holes through them to receive the bar4 ,the curd-sink is an important thing in a factory4 ,its construction is always a matter of considerable speculation and perplexity4 ,we will give dimensions for one suitable for a factory of the size we have indicated4 ,it should be #af feet long1 #b feet #aj inches in width inside1 and #a foot deep4 ,the bottom should be #a inch thick1 and the sides #a inch thick4 ,the legs should be #c feet high1 extending up the sides1 so that the top of the sink will be #c feet from the floor4 ,the sink should be made of clear1 seasoned pine1 and the legs be well braced1 with cross and side pieces connecting them about #f inches from the floor4 ,backs and a cloth strainer may be used1 or a false bottom with perforated tin strainers may be substituted4 ,the proper hight of the weighing can1 of the dumping window from the ground1 and the best apparatus for unloading1 are generally matters quite perplexing4 ,the proper hight of the receiving can is that which gives a gentle slope to the conductor1 as too much current not only causes the milk to slop over the sides of the strainer1 but drives the dirt through the strainer4 ,with vats #c feet #b inches high1 the platform for the scales should be #c feet #h inches from the floor4 ,of the many appliances used for unloading1 none is simpler1 cheaper or more satisfactory than the crane4 ,make it of scantling #d by #d inches1 the upright #h feet long1 and the arm #g feet4 ,hang it as you would a barn-door4 ,fasten one end of a strong half or three-quarter inch rope to the end of the arm2 run it through a pully to which is attached the tongs2 then over a #d inch pully above1 near the end of the arm2 run it back over a similar pully next to the upright1 then down to a #c inch roller1 with a crank1 at a convenient hight for turning4 ,one end of the crank must be sustained by a strong iron strap1 bowing outward1 in the direction of the arm1 to admit the roller 7about #f inches long7 lengthwise1 and fastened to the upright above and below4 ,the window-sill should be not more than two or three inches above the edge of the receiving-can1 which should stand close to the window1 just clearing the sill4 ,the road should be eighteen inches below the platform on which stand the scales and weighing can4 ,then the can1 when raised just enough to clear the wagon-box and wheels1 will be of the right hight for dumping when swung round to the window4 ,many make the mistake of getting the road too low1 which causes the unnecessary work of raising the milk #c or #d feet by hand before it can be dumped1 and wastes strength and time1 both in raising the can and lowering it back again into the wagon after it is emptied4 ,in building a factory1 every provision should be made for cleanliness4 ,it should be located near a living spring of water1 ranging in temperature somewhere between #de and #ee4 ,there should be sufficient water to fill1 at all times1 an inch pipe1 and care should be taken to secure a fair head--enough to carry the water above the vats1 at least4 ,the water should be carried in pipes under the building1 along by the ends of the vats where it is wanted1 with penstocks rising from the pipe1 to furnish water for each vat4 ,the faucets in the penstocks should be all of the same hight--if any difference is made1 the one farthest from the head might be a quarter or half an inch the lowest4 ,outside should be a penstock1 to carry off the superfluous water4 ,the outlet to this should be a few inches higher than the faucets in the penstocks for supplying the vats with water4 ,this is necessary to secure a flow of water in the factory4 ,in freezing weather1 and during the winter1 the penstocks in the factory can be removed1 until needed for use1 and the holes in the pipe beneath plugged up4 ,an extra faucet in one of the penstocks at the ends of the vats1 inserted high enough from the floor to set a pail under1 will supply all the necessary water for cleaning and other purposes4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,production ,,of ,,milk4 ,the requisites of good milk have been so frequently and fully discussed1 that we need not more than briefly advert to them now4 ,the importance of good milk1 for either cheese or butter1 will be conceded1 and therefore the question need not be argued4 ,the first requisites of good milk are good cows4 ,but these will disappoint their owners if they have not good keep4 ,plenty of good clean hay and pure water1 with warm quarters1 are indispensable4 ,the old-fashioned method of allowing cows1 or other cattle1 to weather all kinds of storms1 with a snow-bank for a bed at night1 we believe is pretty effectually done away with4 ,it has been found that it does not pay4 ,it is not yet quite so universally admitted that generous feeding is equally advantageous1 nor that a warm stable is as much an advance on an open1 cold one1 where the cows stand and shiver throughout the twenty-four hours1 as a common shelter is an improvement on no shelter4 ,yet1 a warm stable1 which may be had for a small expense1 is decided economy1 in the saving of food1 as well as a comfort to the cows2 and generous feeding will be found a profitable investment1 both by the increased flow of milk and by its increased richness4 ,a poorly-kept cow will give less milk than a well-kept one1 and its poorer quality will be more manifest than the diminution in quantity4 ,when turned out to grass1 if the feed should prove good1 it will take the cow weeks to build up her system and get in the condition she should have been in at the start2 and though the quantity and quality of her milk will improve1 she will reach the time when the mess naturally begins to shrink before she will have thoroughly recuperated4 ,after this1 the richness of the milk will probably be satisfactory4 ,but in case the season should open dry and cold1 so that the grass starts slowly1 and is then followed by the hot dry weather of ,july and ,august1 as is not unfrequently the case1 a cow that starts spring poor will scarcely get in good condition before the grass is nipped by the fall frosts and it becomes necessary to begin to fodder4 ,there is a marked difference in the quality of the messes of milk delivered at a cheese-factory4 ,the use of the lactometer and cream-gauges will show this4 ,it will be an interesting experiment1 for cheese-makers who never tried it1 to test in this way the quality of the milk delivered by the different patrons1 and then ascertain the style in which each keeps his cows1 the character of the pastures of each1 the kind of water which the pastures afford--whether brook1 river1 swamp or spring--and to note any other facts and conditions which may be apparent or may suggest themselves4 ,it will be found1 we think1 that bad wintering and poor pastures have as much or more to do than anything else with the production of poor milk4 ,no breed of cows nor selection of a dairy can wholly counteract these evils4 ,the yield of milk will undoubtedly be greater and better with some cows than with others2 and so with naturally good cows1 good wintering and pasturing will show quite as marked improvements4 ,we have in our mind an instance where1 at the opening of a cheese-factory1 only a few of the farmers1 having the largest dairies1 delivered milk4 ,they were all men who fed their cows well during the winter1 and gave them meal before and after coming in4 ,the result was an astonishingly large yield of cheese from milk at that season of the year4 ,but as the messes increased1 and milk from dairies poorly-kept came in1 the yield of cheese in proportion to the number of pounds of milk steadily diminished4 ,the lactometer and cream-gauges showed that the poorest milk came from the poorest-kept cows4 ,the forepart of the season proved a cold and wet one1 which made the grass more juicy and less nutritious4 ,this1 with the accidental or intentional watering which the milk got from the rain falling in the cans1 either at home or on the road1 was also believed to decrease the yield of cheese4 ,it appeared that milk coming long distances through the rain1 other things being equal1 showed more water than that brought short distances4 ,manifestly1 some sort of shelter to the cans should be devised1 to be used both at home and on the road1 during rainy weather--and the same for keeping off the rays of the sun1 in fair weather1 is equally desirable4 ,all through the season1 in the instance referred to1 there was a marked difference in the quality of the milk of the well-kept and of the poorly-kept dairies4 ,swampy pastures also seemed to impoverish the milk4 ,those pastures that were dry1 with pure water accessible1 appeared to produce the richest milk4 ,while the milk of the best dairies1 on being tested1 would indicate a yield of a pound of cheese to eight or nine pounds of milk1 the milk of others would not yield a pound of cheese to less than eleven or twelve pounds of milk4 ,the average number of pounds of milk for a pound of cheese1 during the season1 was about #i4i4 ,in the foregoing1 will be seen a manifest objection to the factory system1 as at present conducted4 ,the quality of the milk delivered is nowhere taken into consideration4 ,the man who has a well-selected dairy1 keeps it well1 and delivers milk that will turn out1 for the season1 a hundred pounds of cheese for every nine hundred pounds of milk1 gets no more returns for a given number of pounds of milk than the man who delivers milk so poor that twelve hundred pounds of it will not make more than a hundred pounds of cheese1 or the same as the former's nine hundred pounds4 ,there is a difference of about twenty-five per cent1 in the quality of the milk turned out by the good and the poor dairies1 one-half of which the owner of the former loses1 and the other half of which the owner of the latter gains1 by getting his milk made up at the factory4 ,some means should be devised for remedying this piece of injustice1 if the better class of dairies is to be retained by the factories4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,composition ,,of ,,milk4 ,the composition of milk1 though frequently discussed1 is not generally well understood4 ,it is quite variable1 not only in the milk from different cows1 but in that from the same cow at different times1 and in different conditions1 but especially at different seasons of the year4 ,it is more buttery in winter1 and more cheesy in summer4 ,a cow milked three times a day would give more in quantity but poorer in quality1 than if milked twice2 while one milked twice a day will yield more milk than if milked once a day1 but one milking a day would be the richer4 ,the first milk drawn from the udder is more watery than what follows2 the last is the richest4 ,the accumulation of milk in the cow's bag is influenced by the law of gravitation4 ,the water being the heaviest ingredient1 settles to the bottom1 and is the first milked2 the cream1 which is the lightest1 rises1 and is the last milked4 ,that is to say1 a partial separation takes place in the udder1 sufficient to make the strippings some ten or twelve times as rich in butter as the first milk drawn4 ,we would1 therefore1 infer that the first third contains the most water1 the second third the most cheese1 and the last third the most butter4 ,there is said to be a difference in the milk drawn from the compartments of the udder of the same cow1 or from different teats4 ,the variation in the composition of milk1 of course1 is indicated by different chemical analyses1 no two of which can be found to exactly agree4 ,we give an analysis by ,,haidlen4 ,he found that the specimen contained1 in #a1jjj parts1 #hgc parts of water1 #cj of butter1 #dh4b of cheese1 #dc4i of sugar of milk1 #b4ca of phosphate of lime1 4#db of magnesia1 4#dg of iron1 #a4jd of chloride of potassium1 and 4#ff of sodium and soda4 ,other chemists have found albumen among the constituents of milk1 and this ingredient is believed1 by many1 to be the one that first commences decaying1 in hot weather1 and produces1 tainted milk1 floating curds1 and huffy cheese4 ,skimmed milk has been found1 in some instances1 to contain as high as #ig parts of water in #ajj1 and only #c per cent4 of solids1 or cheesy matter4 ,swill milk has been found to contain as low as #a per cent4 of butter4 ,an analysis of the first milk taken from a cow's bag after calving1 showed it to consist of #ae4a per cent4 of caseine1 or cheese1 #b4f of butter1 #b of mucous matter1 and #hj4c of water4 ,ordinary pure milk will average about #ab per cent4 of cream4 ,but it is not unfrequently found to yield #ae to #bj per cent41 and even as high as #be per cent4 of cream has been obtained4 ,if milk yields less than #aj per cent4 of cream1 it is below the average1 and unprofitable for butter-making4 ,we know of no single instrument that will at once indicate the quality of milk4 ,what is called the lactometer1 but is properly a hydrometer1 will indicate the density of milk1 and if its specific gravity in a pure state be known1 it will show the amount of water added1 if any4 ,on an average1 milk is about #d per cent4 heavier than water4 ,that is1 a hydrometer with a scale graded at #ajj for milk at #fj ,farenheit1 ought to sink to #if in water4 ,the variation in the density of milk will be shown by an experiment given by ,,charles ,l4 ,,flint1 in his ,milch ,cows and ,dairy ,farming4 ,he says3 ,for the purpose of showing the difference in the specific gravity of different specimens of pure milk1 taken from the cows in the morning1 and allowed to cool down to about #fj1 ,i used an instrument graduated with the pure milk mark at #ajj1 with the following results3 ,the first pint drawn from a native cow stood at #aja4 ,the last pint of the same milking1 being the strippings of the same cow1 stood at #hf4 ,the mixture of the two pints stood at about #ic4 ,the milk of a pure bred ,jersey stood at #ie1 that of an ,ayrshire at #ajj1 that of a ,hereford at #ajf1 that of a ,devon at #aaa1 while a thin cream stood at #ff4 ,all these specimens of milk were pure1 and milked at the same time in the morning1 carefully labeled in separate vessels1 and set upon the same shelf to cool off2 and yet the variations of specific gravity amounted to #be1 or1 taking the average quality of the native cow's milk at #ic1 the variations amounted to #ag4 ,it will be seen1 by these experiments1 that the richer the milk in butter1 the less the specific gravity1 thin cream being #cj below the water mark4 ,the richer the milk in caseine1 or cheese1 the greater the specific gravity1 the milk of the ,devon indicating #ae above the water mark4 ,watering milk will of course reduce the specific gravity of milk rich in cheese1 and by this means it can be made to indicate the average density of pure milk4 ,in the same way1 milk rich in butter may have its specific gravity increased until it nearly reaches that of water1 but no amount of watering can make it indicate over #if1 which is the figure given for pure water4 ,a little salt1 or other ingredient1 may be added to bring the density up to the pure milk mark4 ,so the blueness of milk1 produced by either skimming or watering1 may be removed by the use of burnt sugar1 which will give it a rich color4 ,or annotto may be used for the same purpose4 ,many expedients have been resorted to1 from time to time1 by the dishonest1 for the purpose of disguising the impoverishment of milk by skimming and watering4 ,but1 says some one1 why tell dishonest men how they can skim and adulterate their milk8 ,we have not done so4 ,we have told honest men some of the practices of the dishonest1 with the view of enabling them to detect the fraud4 ,true1 the hydrometer is not an accurate or legal test2 but it shows the exact density of the milk tried1 and this is a very important point4 ,when you have decided this1 by the use of the cream-gauges1 you can determine the amount of cream2 and if you let the milk stand until it coagulates1 and the cheese separates from the whey1 you can tell the relative proportion of water and cheese4 ,this may be a somewhat slow and clumsy process1 but it is nevertheless decisive1 and often repays the trouble4 ,foreign substances1 so far as not held in solution by the water1 or not entangled in the cheese or cream1 will settle at the bottom of the glasses4 ,besides1 with these evidences to start on1 the ways of a suspected person can be watched1 and he often be caught in the very act of violating the law1 which we quote below3 #a4 ,whoever shall knowingly sell1 supply1 or bring to be manufactured to any cheese manufactory in this ,state1 any milk diluted with water1 or in any way adulterated1 or milk from which any cream has been taken1 or milk commonly known as skimmed milk2 or whoever shall keep back any part of the milk known as strippings2 or whoever shall knowingly bring or supply milk to any cheese manufactory that is tainted or partly sour from want of proper care in keeping pails1 strainers1 or any vessel in which said milk is kept1 clean and sweet1 after being notified of such taint or carelessness2 or any cheese manufacturer who shall knowingly use1 or direct any of his employes to use1 for his or their individual benefit1 any cream from the milk brought to said cheese manufacturer1 without the consent of all the owners thereof1 shall1 for each and every offense1 forfeit and pay a sum not less than twenty-five dollars1 nor more than one hundred dollars1 with costs of suit1 to be sued for in any court of competent jurisdiction1 for the benefit of the person or persons1 firm or association or corporation1 or their assigns1 upon whom such fraud be committed4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,taints ,,and ,,odors4 ,whatever be the grade of cows and the quality of milk1 much depends upon its management4 ,a good deal of care and attention are requisite for the attainment of the best possible results with such milk as we may have to work up4 ,but before we come to the process of milking1 let us look a moment at the effect of food in regard to taints and the flavor of milk4 ,it is now universally conceded1 that the flavor as well as the quality of the milk depends very materially upon the food of the cow4 ,coarse swamp-grasses and weeds do not produce as rich or sweet milk as clover1 timothy and red-top1 grown on dry upland soil2 while swamp-water gives a ranker flavor than the sweet spring and brook-water of hilly regions4 ,leeks are not the only weeds which taint the milk before it is taken from the cow4 ,all rank vegetable growths lend a similar influence to injure flavor4 ,indeed1 that which the cow eats is what she makes the milk of1 and if these offensive things are taken into her system1 she cannot be expected to turn out milk that will not partake of their qualities1 any more than a man can be expected to make sweet cider of sour apples by running them through the mill and press4 ,even the atmosphere which the cows breathe affects the flavor of the milk4 ,carrion in the lot where the cows feed has been known to impart its odor to the milk of the dairy4 ,dirty stables and barnyards1 the odor of which is breathed by the cows1 makes the milk taste of the barnyard1 as the common expression goes4 ,it becomes of the greatest importance1 therefore1 that cows should have clean1 sweet pastures to feed in1 and clear spring or brook-water to drink2 also1 that they should have clean1 well-ventilated stables to stand in1 and be milked in clean yards or stables1 as free from all taints and bad odors as possible4 ,the cows should not be heated by hurried driving with a dog1 or by a man or boy on horseback1 as this fevers the milk1 giving it an unwholesome quality1 leading to rapid decay as well as producing bad flavor4 ,and1 if quantity as well as quality is to be attained1 pastures must contain plenty of feed1 so that the cow can soon fill her stomach and then lie down or stand in the shade and ruminate at ease1 instead of working constantly from morning to night to gather food enough to satisfy her4 ,she must have water handy1 instead of away back in some retired corner of a large pasture1 as she naturally wants to drink a few swallows quite often1 in warm weather1 but will go until she gets excessively dry and feverish before she will travel a long distance to get water4 ,when thus very dry1 she drinks an inordinate quantity1 which makes her feel heavy and uncomfortable--and whatever annoys a cow lessens the flow and reduces the quality of the milk4 ,a little reflection must make these things apparent to every reasoning mind4 ,cows must have plenty of clean1 wholesome food and pure water1 and must be every way made comfortable and contented1 if the largest flow and best quality of milk is expected4 ,the cow is sure to show1 not only her own naturally good or bad qualities1 but her keep and care1 in the milk pail4 ,there is no cheating her4 ,she will make a corresponding discount or dividend on every iota of ill or good treatment she receives4 ,in this1 she is an exact accountant1 and she will insist upon keeping the account square4 ,milk requires not only favorable conditions for its production1 as above indicated1 but needs great care and cleanliness after it is drawn from the cows4 ,a foul yard or stable will impart its odors to the milk4 ,uncleanliness in milking not only gets filth into the milk1 but taints and injures its flavor4 ,some1 for this reason1 recommend washing the cow's bag before milking4 ,but if this washing is done with cold water by the milker1 it is quite likely to consume time1 cool the bag and cause the cow to hold up a portion of the mess4 ,experience shows that the quicker the milk can be drawn1 after the operation is commenced1 the better the yield4 ,if washing is done1 it should be with warm or tepid water1 and be the work of one person1 who should go through the whole dairy in advance of the milkers4 ,but1 in our opinion1 where the stable or yard is kept clean1 a careful brushing of the bag with the hands before beginning1 and care in holding the pail a little toward you from under the teats1 will obviate all the evils of uncleanliness from milking2 and1 certain it is1 where all the surroundings are dirty1 no amount of washing the cow's bag will get rid of the bad effects of the odors arising from the filth4 ,clean quarters for milking are indispensable to the furnishing of sweet1 nice-flavored milk4 ,cleanliness in all the pails1 cans1 strainers1 and whatever comes in contact with the milk1 is equally necessary4 ,thorough washing1 not omitting the use of soap1 scalding and airing1 are the only things that will keep them sweet and free from taint4 ,all implements and utensils should be as free from sharp corners as possible1 as these are difficult to clean1 and taints are apt to be left in them to come in contact with the new milk and infect it1 as a small quantity of yeast leavens a batch of bread4 ,the milk will1 therefore1 soon begin to ferment1 producing one of the worst conditions which the cheese-maker has to contend with1 and rendering it impossible for him to make firm1 clean-flavored cheese of the milk4 ,in no case should wooden vessels be used for milk4 ,the wood will absorb the milk1 and no amount of washing and scalding will get it entirely out4 ,what remains will get frowy and impart its infection to the warm milk and cause it to rapidly taint4 ,tin vessels are the best of anything yet devised1 and are recommended universally by the best dairymen and by the ,american ,dairymen's ,association4 ,those with pressed or round bottoms1 having no inside angles for ferments to collect in1 are preferable4 ,these can be obtained for a trifle if any more money than common tin pails cost1 and should receive the preference of dairymen when purchasing4 ,in short1 the greatest care should be taken to have all things strictly clean--not only those that come in contact with the milk1 but those surrounding it4 ,the milkers should be as clean1 careful and expeditious as possible1 avoiding all unnecessary or unusual motions1 and everything calculated to alarm or excite the cows4 ,then1 if the cows have had proper food1 drink1 care and treatment1 there is little reason to apprehend anything objectionable in either the quantity or quality of the milk4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,cooling ,,milk4 ,the management of milk1 when once obtained1 is the great practical consideration with the farmer and cheese-maker4 ,but the first handling and care devolve upon the farmer2 the cheese-maker's duties begin with the delivery of the milk at the factory4 ,much1 very much1 depends upon the treatment of the milk after milking1 and the consequent condition in which it is delivered4 ,we will therefore begin at the stable or yard and follow the milk through all its stages1 until it is run into the weighing-can4 ,previous suggestions as to cleanliness1 etc41 being adopted1 we find the hot milk in the pails ready to be strained into the can standing on the platform or in the wagon4 ,we say strained1 because this is necessary to absolute cleanliness1 which affects the flavor1 though at some factories the patrons are directed not to strain the milk1 for the reason that poor care is so often taken of the strainer1 and the keeping of the strainer drawn tight over the top of the can prevents cooling and hastens taint4 ,for this reason1 we would recommend the use of strainer-pails1 unless the cloth strainer can be stretched above the can so as to allow the heat to escape and the cool air to come in4 ,these precautions should be observed1 most certainly1 if no means is adopted for cooling the milk before starting for the factory4 ,the subject of cooling and airing milk has long been earnestly discussed1 and the importance of cooling1 at least1 we believe is universally conceded4 ,but how is this end to be attained1 with the thermometer indicating an average temperature of #hj1 and perhaps higher8 ,the first and simplest suggestion is to set the can in a tub of cold water--cold spring or well-water1 or iced water--and to give the milk frequent agitation with a dipper or other convenient article1 care being taken to stir it from the bottom1 as the cold milk naturally settles1 and of course the hot milk lies on the top4 ,gentle agitation secures the advantage1 also1 of preventing the cream from rising4 ,this makes trouble1 and consumes a little time1 but we believe the result will well repay both4 ,the milk-can should1 by all means1 be kept out of the sun's rays1 and in a clean airy place4 ,as to the importance of airing milk1 there is a difference of opinion4 ,some assert that the airing is beneficial only so far as it assists in cooling1 and that if we can succeed in cooling the milk down to #fj1 or thereabouts1 immediately after milking1 we shall attain all the good results apparent from exposure to the air4 ,all the animal odors1 they say1 disappear4 ,be that as it may1 it is scarcely possible to cool milk without more or less exposure to the atmosphere1 and we have never heard it claimed that any bad consequences follow this exposure4 ,it is possible1 however1 that it may more rapidly absorb oxygen1 and thus sooner sour4 ,the probability is1 that any process which will secure the proper cooling will also afford the necessary exposure for the escape of all animal or other odors likely to pass off in the form of gas4 ,therefore1 practically1 it is of very little importance whether we consider the question of airing milk1 in any of the stages of its management4 ,so we will first look after the processes which secure known advantages4 ,several inventions for the purpose of cooling milk have made their appearance within the past year or two4 ,some for the use of factories1 which seem to work quite satisfactorily1 and others for the use of farmers1 none of which1 we believe1 have yet been received with much favor4 ,they are mostly too complicated1 if not too expensive1 and too difficult to keep clean1 to ever become generally adopted4 ,yet1 enough has already been developed to convince us that the desideratum1 of a satisfactory apparatus for cooling milk as fast as1 or soon after1 it is taken from the cow1 can be realized4 ,the great trouble is1 to make farmers use it faithfully1 if at all4 ,the cooling of milk as fast as milked1 or very soon afterward1 is the great question now presented to farmers and cheese-makers4 ,it is of quite as much and more consequence1 than keeping it cool at the factory--for milk is often so far advanced in decomposition1 if not actually sour or tainted1 when received1 that it is impossible to work it up satisfactorily4 ,some ,yankee must give us a simple and cheap apparatus that will effect the desired result4 ,such an invention will greatly improve the quality and increase the consumption and price of ,american cheese4 ,but1 in the absence of anything better1 the can set in a tub of water and the milk frequently stirred1 would be a great improvement on starting for the factory with hot milk4 ,if the water can be made to constantly run into the tub1 fresh and cool1 as the warm water runs out1 so much the better4 ,another improvement would be some kind of wagon-cover1 permitting the air to pass under it1 to keep off the sun in clear weather and keep out the rain in wet weather4 ,the hot rays of the sun1 pouring on a can of milk for the distance of two or three miles1 perhaps--especially if the milk is not cooled before starting--cannot fail to do it serious injury4 ,milk thus exposed often has a very offensive smell when it reaches the factory-door4 ,this shows that it is already tainted and in a condition to injure the good milk in the vat into which it is run1 and cause a porous or huffy curd4 ,the question as to the effect of suddenly cooling milk has been somewhat discussed2 also as to how low a temperature is beneficial4 ,experiments are necessary to definitely and satisfactorily settle these questions4 ,our impression is that1 if ice is not used1 there is no danger of cooling milk too suddenly or of getting it too cool4 ,but where ice is used1 especially if permitted to come in contact with the milk1 or even to be separated from it only by a thickness of tin1 there is danger of chilling the particles of milk in immediate contact with the cold surface1 and causing them to prematurely decay4 ,this would1 of course1 injure the keeping qualities of the rest of the batch4 ,so far as the suddenness of the operation is concerned1 we doubt if it would have any material effect1 one way or the other4 ,but where any portion of the milk is chilled1 whether the whole batch of milk be slowly or suddenly reduced in temperature1 we should expect it to injure the flavor and keeping qualities of the cheese4 ,some experiments1 like the one made and related by ,mr4 ,,farrington1 of ,canada1 at the last ,convention of the ,american ,dairymen's ,association1 would seem to favor the conclusion1 that suddenly reducing the milk to a low temperature is unfavorable to the production of the best quality of cheese4 ,more experiments1 as we have previously suggested1 are necessary to finally settle these questions4 ,but of the importance of cooling milk down to as low a temperature as #fj to #fe1 there can be no doubt2 and there need be no fear of milk being cooled rapidly enough to injure it where only water is used in the process of cooling4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,delivering ,,milk4 ,very little attention is usually paid to carrying milk to the factory4 ,too many pour the hot milk into a can standing on a wagon or platform1 in the broiling sun1 put on the cover1 which fits almost air-tight1 as soon as through1 and then haul it in this condition1 without any shelter or protection from the sun's rays1 to the factory4 ,it is sometimes drawn two or three miles in this way4 ,or1 as is often the case1 it is left standing on the platform1 covered air-tight1 until the milk-wagon comes along4 ,whether taken on the wagon at the beginning of the route1 or left standing on the platform at the last end of the route1 it broils in the sun an hour or two1 with the animal heat all in it4 ,if drawn a long distance1 it is pretty well churned1 in addition1 and thus a separation of the butter takes place which no ingenuity of the cheese-maker can remedy2 but when the result is seen in the cream rising on the whey-vat1 anathemas are heaped on his head4 ,where the milk stands quiet on the platform1 the cream rises and forms an air-tight covering over the top of the milk1 which soon taints next to the cream4 ,and whether standing still or riding in a tight can1 exposed to the sun's rays1 without the animal heat having been expelled1 it is scarcely possible to avoid taint4 ,in this way1 the manufacturer is furnished with perhaps fifty or seventy-five messes of milk1 all more or less tainted1 or at least progressed in decomposition1 whether any offensive odor is perceptible or not4 ,he has these to cool off and keep over night--often with poor facilities for cooling--for proprietors of factories are too often ignorant of the importance of providing ample means for cooling1 or are too eager for large profits on small investments1 to furnish them4 ,so the operator dips and stirs away at the decomposing mass until ten or eleven o'clock1 if not later1 and finally yields to tired nature's sweet restorer1 balmy sleep1 to rest his weary muscles and care-worn brain--exhausted1 perhaps1 by months of incessant toil seven days every week4 ,by five the next morning he must be on hand1 to receive the scattering messes of milk4 ,at seven or eight o'clock comes the rush4 ,then the messes begin to drop off1 and by half-past nine or ten o'clock the last steaming batch1 with an unmistakable rotten-egg smell1 makes its appearance4 ,now1 what has the cheese-maker got on his hands1 some sweltering morning1 during the season when it is too hot to make butter1 and people kindly draw their dairy liquids to the cheese-factory8 ,why1 on rising in the morning and rubbing open his eyes1 he breaks the cream on his milk4 ,the under surface has a sickish1 sour smell1 which tells him very plainly that it cannot be worked up too soon4 ,but what is he to do8 ,the answer is plain enough3 ,run into this fermenting mass an equal quantity of the same hot stuff which he received the night before6 ,what will be its condition by the time he gets through8 ,no matter6 ,it is his business to make cheese of it4 ,he is employed for that purpose4 ,if the cheese does not prove of the first quality1 every patron who furnishes him stinking milk will have strong suspicions that he does not understand his business6 ,and some even insist that the cheese-maker shall pay for all the poor cheese6 ,but any man who is fool enough to make such an agreement1 ought to suffer1 at least one season4 ,the thought of it1 however1 is almost enough to make a minister swear4 ,and1 by the way1 we have been told of one instance where a minister left the pulpit and took to the cheese-factory--probably for the purpose of practically learning a lesson of patience4 ,he was simple-minded enough to agree to pay for all the poor cheese4 ,he soon found his salary was not equal to such a demand4 ,so he set himself about watching the weighing-can1 to keep out the bad milk4 ,this was a ,herculean task he had not counted on4 ,we are not informed whether he swore or not2 but he actually took his station outside1 with a heavy rod of iron1 which he was compelled to use1 on one or two occasions1 to keep the patrons from running rotten milk into the weighing-can6 ,his experience was an instructive one1 and ought to be a warning to all ambitious clergymen1 as well as to innocent-minded cheese-makers6 ,we do not mean to say1 that the patrons of all factories are as bad as above indicated1 nor that they are no better on an average4 ,but we do mean to say1 that too many are very careless1 and that almost every factory has a few patrons whose milk is apt to be in a bad condition when delivered4 ,besides1 while we hear frequent complaints about bad milk1 we never hear of any one's delivering milk in too good a condition4 ,patrons need have no fears of this1 and may take it for granted that they cannot take too much pains with milk1 both in point of cleanliness and of keeping it out of the hot sun and expelling the animal heat4 ,we should expect to find1 if a careful investigation were made1 that the most unsuccessful factories are those where milk is delivered in the worst condition1 while the successful ones are those where patrons are more careful and the milk received is generally good4 ,more often depends on the milk than on the cheese-maker4 ,we have heard it remarked1 that almost anybody can make good cheese of perfectly sweet milk2 but it is a smart chap indeed who can make good cheese of poor milk4 ,every cheese-maker will appreciate our remarks1 and we hope they may not be altogether lost on some patrons4 ,it will not1 as a general thing1 pay to draw milk over two or two and a half miles1 for two reasons3 ,first1 it consumes too much valuable time1 and next1 it churns the milk too much and keeps it too long shut up tight and exposed to the hot atmosphere1 if not the sun4 ,if milk1 however1 were thoroughly cooled as soon as milked1 and then carried on easy springs over a smooth road1 there is little doubt that it might be drawn four or five miles without much injury1 but the expense would be a serious objection to going so long a distance4 ,cans that hold over a barrel will be found inconvenient4 ,it is better to use two smaller ones1 that can be easily handled1 than one very large one4 ,they will cost but little more1 and will last considerably longer1 as the strain on them will be less4 ,a large can is made of the same material1 and is but little if any stronger from additional bracing and staying1 and is liable to spring aleak4 ,as to the use of faucets1 it is generally objected to by cheese-makers1 as too little pains is taken by many to keep them clean4 ,their use is1 therefore1 discarded as far as possible1 and we believe cans are generally made without them4 ,yet1 some factories still continue receiving milk through conductors1 where1 of course1 faucets are necessary4 ,they are also a convenience to the patron1 in many instances1 where the can may be used for other purposes than holding milk4 ,it is1 therefore1 not likely that their use will ever be entirely done away with4 ,but1 if neatly and smoothly put in1 and care is observed in cleaning them1 there can be no serious objection to them4 ,small faucets1 however1 should never be tolerated4 ,nothing smaller than inch-and-a-half or two-inch faucets should be put in4 ,these are easy to clean1 and greatly facilitate emptying4 ,a small spiteful stream is a nuisance1 and causes a waste of time at the factory door where expedition is what everybody wants1 and is what is needed4 ,if you use a faucet1 use a large one1 and keep it scrupulously clean4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,receiving ,,milk4 ,most factories now unload milk by the use of cranes or some other kind of tipping apparatus4 ,some of the older factories--there are no very old ones--continue the use of conductors for transferring the milk to the weighing-can4 ,this is the easier but the slower way1 and necessitates the use of at least double the number of weighing-cans that are required by the crane4 ,besides1 in the use of conductors1 there is the constant inconvenience of standing out in the rain1 in wet weather1 to hold the conductor1 while there is more or less liability to accident from the backing up or starting of the team4 ,conductors are mean1 even impossible1 things to clean2 and their use1 when there is a rush of teams1 requires a second man or boy to hold them1 while the first does the weighing and makes the necessary entries on the milk-book4 ,if sixty to eighty messes are to be received1 at least two weighing cans will be necessary4 ,but by the use of a crane1 one weighing-can will do the same work--always provided it has a faucet of not less than three inches in diameter1 so that the can may be emptied while a team is driving up and the patron's can is being grappled and elevated ready for tipping4 ,a large faucet is of equal advantage when conductors are used1 and1 in that case1 every patron's can should be furnished with at least a two-inch faucet1 to facilitate the transfer of milk to the weighing-can4 ,the use of the crane is1 of course1 not entirely free from accident4 ,the strain on the can1 when full1 is very great1 and it is liable to spring aleak1 unless well made4 ,but cans made with reference to this use are now furnished with crowning or with patent bottoms1 and are so well hooped and braced that no serious accidents of this kind are likely to occur4 ,a can-ear1 or a rope long in use1 may break4 ,there may be carelessness in hooking on to the can1 and the milk may be slopped or spilled by letting a full can turn over too soon1 or by too suddenly letting the milk dash into the weighing-can4 ,all these operations require care and experience2 but1 with proper management1 the loss from accident1 during a season1 will be very slight--perhaps nothing at all4 ,great care should be taken in weighing milk1 to not only weigh it right1 but to make the patron feel that his milk is honestly weighed1 and that he is likewise honestly credited on the milk-book4 ,much suspicion and hard feeling are liable to spring up1 if the man who weighs the milk has the appearance of being hasty and careless--especially if he should be ill-natured and disagreeable in his manners4 ,and it may not be out of place here to remark1 that good manners and a spirit of accommodation are no more out of place in a cheese-factory than anywhere else4 ,among a large number of patrons1 it would be strange if there were not disagreeable1 ill-mannerly men2 but a man who retains his self-possession and always acts fairly and talks reasonably1 will seldom fail to get along tolerably well and retain the good will of all4 ,it is the right of the patron to know that his milk is correctly weighed and credited1 and every reasonable facility should be afforded him to satisfy himself that he is fairly dealt with4 ,it becomes the duty of one receiving milk to see that it is delivered in proper condition4 ,experience1 a good eye and a good nose1 are all useful assistants4 ,even with the use of all these1 messes will sometimes get into the vat that never ought to be there4 ,but when a patron's milk is found not to be right1 it is not necessary to insult or abuse him1 nor to make a general exposure of him4 ,neither law nor duty requires this4 ,he should be kindly informed of the fact1 told what the matter is with his milk and what he had better do to remove the evil4 ,if you do not wish to take the mess1 you can express your regrets at his misfortune1 and show him that it would cause great damage1 some of which must necessarily fall on himself4 ,if the mess is objectionable1 but will pass1 give him notice that you will be obliged to refuse it in future1 if not in a better condition4 ,when you have done this1 more words with him are unnecessary1 and you have all the advantage1 for the law and the community are on your side4 ,but1 with a reasonable man1 it will not be necessary to more than call his attention to the fact that his milk is bad4 ,the cause may be the result of accident or oversight on the part of his help1 and he will at once set himself to work to apply the remedy4 ,the importance of delivering milk in good condition is more and more acknowledged every year1 and not a few patrons pride themselves on delivering as good milk as any of their neighbors4 ,it is well to encourage this feeling by giving every man credit who takes pains with his milk4 ,nothing is worse than wholesale denunciation and fault finding4 ,it only discourages many1 creates bad feeling1 and makes an up-hill road a rough one as well4 ,a cheese-maker needs friends1 if anybody does2 and if he does not get them among his patrons1 he is not likely to get them at all4 ,in that case1 his seven days a week of hard1 thankless toil and care are likely to weigh heavily on body and mind4 ,the greatest difficulty is usually experienced in old factories1 where the conveniences are not generally up to the more modern mark1 and patrons fell into bad habits before experience had developed a better knowledge of the requirements of cheese-making4 ,new patrons will submit to be trained1 and a sensible cheese-maker1 who knows what he wants1 can generally get them to do almost anything at the opening of a new factory4 ,in this way1 he can discipline them and get them in the habit of taking good care of their milk4 ,but1 in an old factory1 where everything started off badly1 the old adage1 that it is hard to learn old dogs new tricks1 is apt to be exemplified4 ,they dislike innovations1 think a new man1 who wants to be particular1 wishes to put them to useless trouble1 and they are not disposed to gratify him1 but rather to growl at him1 and feel that what was good enough for others is good enough for him4 ,such conduct is all wrong1 and those who are guilty of it stand in their own light4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,big ,,averages4 ,it is the custom in many factories to balance the scales so that a pound or so is taken out of each mess1 in order to help make a big average for the season4 ,that is1 every mess is made to weigh a pound or so less than its actual weight1 and is so entered on the book4 ,in this way1 if sixty or seventy messes are received1 the cheese-maker has that number of pounds of milk more to make up than is charged against him4 ,this amount twice a day would enable him to turn out some twelve or fourteen pounds of cheese more than he ought to if he received no more pounds of milk than he gives credit for on the milk-book4 ,thus he makes it appear to the patrons1 and publishes it ultimately to the world1 that he uses less pounds of milk in making a pound of cheese than is the actual fact4 ,in common phrase1 he makes a big average4 ,let us illustrate a little4 ,suppose ten hundred and ten pounds of milk are delivered in ten messes4 ,the entry on the book is one thousand pounds4 ,out of this he makes one hundred and one pounds of cured cheese4 ,if the milk had been correctly weighed1 the fact would appear that he made one pound of marketable cheese for every ten pounds of milk4 ,but it really appears that it took a fraction less than ten pounds of milk1 or #i4i pounds1 for a pound of cheese4 ,this is the advantage which he has1 in the eyes of the community1 over the maker who gives honest weight4 ,this is the reward of his petty dishonesty4 ,in justification of this1 it is argued that it keeps up not only the reputation of the maker but the reputation of the factory1 while it wrongs no one1 since the patrons get all the cheese1 or its equivalent in money1 and all are served alike4 ,we admit that the patrons get all the products of the milk1 but let us see for a moment whether all are treated fairly4 ,every patron has a pound of milk deducted from each mess4 ,,smith brings a hundred pound mess1 and is therefore docked one hundredth part of it4 ,,jones1 with only one cow1 delivers a ten pound mess1 and is docked one-tenth of it4 ,thus1 at the end of thirty days1 each has delivered sixty messes4 ,,smith has delivered #f1jjj pounds and been credited for #e1idj4 ,,jones has delivered #fjj pounds1 and got credit for #edj4 ,if ten pounds of milk make one pound of cheese1 the account ought to stand thus3 ,smith1 #fjjj lbs4 milk1 #fjj lbs4 cheese4 ,jones1 #fjj lbs4 milk1 #fj lbs4 cheese4 --- ,total1 #ffj ,but1 under the system of deducting a pound from each mess1 in order to show a big average1 the account really stands thus3 ,smith1 #e1idj lbs4 milk1 #fje lbs4 cheese4 ,jones1 #edj lbs4 milk1 #ee lbs4 cheese4 --- ,total1 #ffj ,at twenty cents a pound for cheese1 ,,jones1 because he is poor and delivers a small mess1 loses just one dollar on his month's milk1 and ,,smith1 because he is better off and has a bigger mess1 gets the dollar added to his profits4 ,this1 in plain figures1 is the result of deducting weight in order to show a big average4 ,let no one who reads this do it again4 ,he can no longer plead ignorance1 and continue to rob ,,peter for the benefit of ,,paul1 under the supposition that he is treating all alike and fairly4 ,unquestionably1 something should be allowed for the difference between a dry and a wet can4 ,the amount is trifling1 and can be got at by balancing the scales immediately after running out a can of milk4 ,but1 when the scales are balanced with a wet can1 they will not balance exactly when the can is dry2 and whoever delivers the first mess and wets the can will suffer a slight loss1 unless care is taken to give good weight4 ,the variation will generally not be more than a quarter of a pound or so1 and can be nearly enough approximated by attention to the fractions of a pound denoted by the scales4 ,of course1 in weighing milk1 only the full pounds can be counted and credited1 the fractions going to make up full weight4 ,as quick weight is demanded in selling cheese1 milk when received should be weighed in the same way4 ,this is fair1 and ought to be satisfactory to all4 ,but whether quick or slow weight is given1 let it be honest4 ,in the long run1 honesty is the best policy in weighing milk as well as in other transactions2 and1 in this case1 it is absolutely essential to justice4 ,a little deduction or variation on a single mess1 is of small consequence2 but many mickles make a muckle1 and when the variation from a correct standard is constantly in one direction1 after a while it amounts to a noticeable quantity4 ,occasionally a mess of milk will get run into the vat without weighing1 by the weigher forgetting to close the gate or faucet4 ,when an accident of this kind happens1 there is no fairer way than to give credit for an average mess as compared with the messes at the same time of day previously4 ,if the patron is a fair man1 there will be little trouble in hitting upon a satisfactory figure4 ,if disposed to make the most of a mistake1 he will be likely to tell you that he thought he had a larger mess than usual1 and crowd you up to as high a figure as possible4 ,but one has to exercise his best judgment1 and give such credit as he thinks will wrong no one4 ,such mistakes1 though almost unavoidable1 are unpleasant to one who is sensitive and wishes to keep the good side of all2 and not only care should be taken1 but every precaution should be used1 to prevent them4 ,the handle or lever for closing the gate should be in full sight1 and one should acquire the habit of working systematically1 so that he may instinctively do what is necessary1 even though his attention be for the moment diverted from his business4 ,great care is required1 too1 in making the entries in the milk book4 ,a mess1 by carelessness1 may be credited to the wrong man2 but when the man to whom the credit is wrongfully given presents himself1 the mistake is likely to be discovered1 though you may not be able to determine at once to whom the credit belongs4 ,in such case1 preserve the figures1 and when your messes are all in1 turn over the leaves of the book and see who is without credit4 ,the size of the mess is generally some indication4 ,one is liable1 too1 to make a mistake of fifty or a hundred pounds in looking at the scales4 ,but the habit of comparing every entry with the previous ones as you make it1 will show the discrepancy4 ,where such variation is noticed1 of course another glance at the weight will determine whether it is a mistake or not4 ,it is a very good practice to call out the weight of each mess4 ,this affords satisfaction to the patron as well as guards against allowing errors to pass4 ,but1 under all circumstances1 too much attention cannot be paid to keeping the milk-book correctly4 ,it is the only guide to the distribution of the proceeds of the factory1 and the thought of even a possible mistake ought to give an honest man a strong sense of responsibility4 ,no bank book is of more importance4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,conductors1 ,,strainers1 ,,etc4 ,when treating of receiving milk1 we spake of conductors as difficult to clean4 ,we consider them an abomination in a cheese factory2 yet almost every factory uses them4 ,we believe there are some1 however1 arranged for delivering and receiving milk by driving through one end of the factory4 ,the milk is brought in small cans1 out of which it is poured into the weighing-can by hand4 ,the weighing-can is on a truck running on a railway along the sides or ends of the vats1 into which the milk is readily emptied by tipping4 ,this does away with both faucets and conductors1 and the idea is worthy the attention of all factorymen4 ,when cranes are used in receiving milk1 the outside conductors are not needed1 but there are two or three long conductors1 inside the factory1 used for running the milk from the weighing-can into the vats4 ,sometimes we see one of these tin tubes ten or fifteen feet long4 ,it is impossible to keep such a thing clean4 ,a peep into this1 or shorter ones1 will show that they are not kept clean4 ,take as much pains as the hands may to clean them with a swab on a long stick1 they will soon get coated over inside by the milk drying on2 and1 unless extra pains is taken1 they will be lined with a beautiful coating of green and gold6 ,they are used at night1 and1 unless the weather is very bad--and many pay no attention to the weather--they are allowed to stand over night where used1 ready for the next morning4 ,the milk and cream get dried on the inside surface1 and nobody has the time1 if the disposition1 to soak it off4 ,further1 tin conductors will get dents in them4 ,the milk will collect and dry in the angles made by these dents4 ,how1 in the name of common sense1 can any one get at them to clean them1 in a tube ten or even four feet long8 ,it is an impossibility4 ,the milk collects1 from day to day1 until the conductor is full of foul ferments1 through which all the milk of the factory is run and tainted4 ,it is no fault of the cheese-maker1 because he can't help it1 if he employs a hand constantly on these abominable tubes4 ,he may use a swab with strong ley1 or salt and water1 or both1 and run hot water through the tubes till the patrons begin to come with their milk1 but the damned spots will not out4 ,of course1 he will somewhat neutralize their active properties as ferments1 but he does not altogether get rid of them4 ,the only way in which he can do it1 is to pitch the nasty things out of the window4 ,if conductors must be used--and their use seems to be a foregone conclusion--let them be made in the form of open spouts4 ,a foot or so next to the head1 is all the tube that is needed--and this should be large enough to readily admit the hand for the purpose of washing4 ,the rest should be an open spout1 which can be easily and speedily cleaned and scalded4 ,many owners of factories1 however1 are too penurious to spend a few dollars in order to get rid of this nuisance of long tin conductors4 ,they would rather lose--or1 at least1 run the risk of losing--five hundred dollars on the sale of their cheese1 than spend five dollars for the purpose of avoiding this fruitful source of taint4 ,if the cheese is poor1 the blame can be laid on the cheese-maker2 or1 if the taint is too manifest in the vat of milk or curd1 it can be charged upon the carelessness of the patrons4 ,there is another source of trouble1 which lies entirely with the cheese-maker1 or with the hands under him whom he trusts4 ,this is the strainer4 ,in cool weather1 perhaps there will be no difficulty1 if the strainer is properly washed1 scalded and dried each morning after the milk is all in4 ,but in hot weather1 especially if the atmosphere is damp and steamy1 if a strainer is left over night without rinsing1 it is sure to sour4 ,yet1 the strainer1 like the conductor1 is often left at night just as used1 ready for the reception of the next morning's milk4 ,both are likely to be sour4 ,the milk in the vat is old1 especially next the cream1 which acts as an air-tight covering4 ,now1 run hot milk through the sour can1 conductor and strainer1 into this mess of changed milk1 and any one1 with even but a modicum of brains1 can see what is likely to be the consequence4 ,it will be a batch of sour1 leaky cheese4 ,where an agitator is used1 the trouble of milk souring or tainting beneath an air-tight covering of cream1 is obviated4 ,washing cans1 conductors and strainers at night1 gets rid of the difficulty from these sources--that is1 as far as the can and strainer are concerned1 and partially as regards the conductor4 ,a thorough rinsing in cold water1 immediately after the last mess is run in1 will be found to answer the purpose4 ,it is usually late1 and there is no hot water for regular washing and scalding4 ,but a few moments' work will complete the rinsing in cold water1 and this will not be found a very hard task for even the jaded hands of a cheese-factory4 ,during all the hot weather1 this should be strictly attended to4 ,it will pay in a double sense--it will prevent sourness1 and make the can1 conductor and strainer easier to wash the next day4 ,the old-fashioned thermometer is also a source of annoyance1 if care is not taken in cleaning it4 ,it will fill up with ferments between the face and back1 in an astonishingly short space of time1 during hot weather4 ,in short1 there is no way of keeping it perfectly clean1 except by slipping the thermometer out of the back or case1 and carefully washing and scalding it--and in doing this1 it is exceedingly liable to get broken4 ,we are therefore glad to notice the introduction of a new thermometer for dairy purposes4 ,it is simply constructed1 plain1 easy to clean1 and no more expensive than the common kind now in use4 ,those in need of thermometers will find this style much better adapted to their uses4 ,the glass is fastened to a plain plate of metal1 the two edges of which are bent forward to give it the requisite stiffness4 ,of course1 agitators1 dippers1 rakes1 c41 need to be carefully cleaned4 ,but we have before spoken of the importance of the most scrupulous attention to cleanliness throughout1 on the part of the cheese-maker as well as of the patron4 ,cleanliness is an indispensable virtue in all departments of dairying4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,color4 ,one would hardly think of associating cheese-making with the fine arts2 yet1 in what other light can we view the subject of color8 ,it adds nothing to the quality of the cheese1 but rather detracts from it4 ,it is expensive and troublesome1 and grows more so every year1 as the demand for annotto runs up the price and leads to adulteration4 ,but as long as we make cheese for a foreign market1 we must adapt our goods to the tastes of that market1 whether they be physical or mental4 ,our home market would1 perhaps1 not suffer from the omission of color2 but the ,english market demands1 to a large extent1 highly-colored cheese4 ,the ,liverpool market will take a small quantity of pale cheese1 but it does not equal more than one-fifth of the demand of the ,english market4 ,a few factories1 which sell exclusively to buyers who supply the ,liverpool demand for pale cheese1 may safely omit the color2 but all which depend on the general market cannot safely do so4 ,the ,london market specially demands a high color1 and it is no less exacting now than it has been heretofore4 ,the cry of buyers generally is1 ,keep up the color6 ,the exceptions to this are few1 and are confined to those who have special orders for pale cheese to supply the demand above indicated4 ,the ,english consumer acquired his taste for golden-hued cheese before the ,american make found any considerable market abroad--indeed1 before we had much cheese to sell4 ,the first object in coloring seems to have been to give a rich butter color4 ,in this way1 cheese was made to appear rich whether it really was so or not4 ,but the shade has been considerably intensified and the ,english eye is best pleased with the color produced by the use of prime annotto1 with which it has become familiar4 ,this may be a prejudice1 but it is a comparatively harmless one2 and since our customer is willing to pay for it1 there seems to be no good reason why it should not be gratified4 ,it is for our interest to please the eye as well as the appetite of so large a buyer of our products as ,england4 ,she wants about four-fifths of her cheese highly but nicely colored4 ,the complaint among buyers generally is1 that color is too low4 ,in reply to suggestions about the fact1 makers often say that they never used more coloring1 but it does not produce the desired effect4 ,they have paid a high price for what was supposed to be prime annotto1 but it proves to be extensively adulterated1 and therefore weak4 ,this is not the complaint of all1 but of many4 ,some have adopted the use of prepared annotto1 and find it cheaper and more satisfactory4 ,when prime annotto could readily be had1 it was cheaper to buy the basket and prepare it themselves4 ,but now1 one poor basket1 during a season1 imposes a loss greater than the difference in price between the prepared and the unprepared4 ,there is another evil about the use of poor annotto4 ,it is not only expensive and does not give the desired color1 but what color it does give fades out with age1 and leaves the cheese with a cloudy1 mottled appearance1 which is very offensive to the eye of our best customers4 ,again1 where poor annotto is bought in the basket and prepared at the factory1 it contains a large amount of sediment1 and this sediment1 often containing deleterious substances1 too frequently gets into the cheese4 ,the liquid is not properly settled and racked off4 ,this affords another argument in favor of buying prepared annotto1 which1 if properly put up1 is free from sediment4 ,those who prefer to buy the basket annotto and prepare it themselves1 should buy only on the warrant of the dealer that it is what it is recommended to be4 ,the dealer should test a sample of his annotto1 before offering it for sale1 and know precisely what he is selling4 ,buyers by thus purchasing only of well-known dealers1 who sell upon honor1 will discourage rascality4 ,this is the only method we see for keeping the spurious article out of market1 and securing satisfactory results in coloring4 ,we would suggest to those who prepare their own annotto1 that they use concentrated ley or potash4 ,by doing so1 they will secure just as good a shade as they can by using ley from wood-ashes1 and not only save the trouble of bothering with a leach1 but secure uniform strength4 ,two leaches will seldom turn out ley of the same strength4 ,sometimes it will be strong and satisfactory4 ,but if you happen to get a lot of soft wood ashes in your leach1 the ley will be weak1 imperfectly dissolve the annotto1 and materially injure the liquid4 ,in fact1 it is difficult to get your coloring twice alike by the use of a common leach4 ,but with concentrated ley or potash1 the same quantities or proportions of materials1 mixed in the same way1 will produce the same result4 ,you can therefore keep your color even1 and will not be called upon to experiment and change your hand every time you prepare a new batch of annotto4 ,the difference in expense will be trifling1 and rather in favor of the use of potash1 if time and trouble are counted of any value4 ,the prepared annotto ought to be kept in a stone jar1 as the ley operates injuriously upon wood1 and is liable to leave a tub in a leaky condition as the liquid is used out and the tub dries4 ,where annotto is purchased already prepared1 of course it comes in vessels suitable to keep it in2 but when prepared at the factory1 a receptacle has to be provided1 and nothing is better than stone or earthen-ware4 ,in hot weather1 the liquid is liable to smell badly from the action of the heat on it4 ,a little salt stirred in will be found useful as a preventive against this4 ,it is not necessary to discuss at length the question of the effect of coloring on the quality of the cheese4 ,the introduction of a strong alkaline preparation cannot be without some effect2 and when that happens to be adulterated with some vile substance1 the effect cannot be otherwise than injurious4 ,the annotto itself is generally conceded to be harmless2 and the ley is1 at most1 but a neutralizer of the lactic acid1 but the quantity is not sufficient1 perhaps1 to produce any perceptible result4 ,at all events1 color is demanded2 annotto1 prepared with ley or potash1 is the accepted material2 so we have only to color with annotto to suit the taste of our customer4 ,we are assured that nicely colored cheese will bring from a cent to a cent and a half a pound more than the same quality of cheese will bring when pale4 ,buyers in some instances advise the making of pale cheese because they have a special order for it2 but they usually expect to get it a little under the highest market quotations1 and factorymen who allow themselves to drop the color on the advice of an interested buyer1 because it is easy and costs nothing directly to do so1 run the risk of being caught and of losing a great deal more than they can save by omitting the coloring4 ,we never heard of a lot of cheese being condemned because it was too nicely colored2 but we frequently hear of complaints and losses because cheese is too pale4 ,the chances are at least four to one in favor of high-colored cheese2 and even the fifth chance is not positively against color1 though the other four are strongly against lack of color4 ,he who wishes to have the widest range of markets1 and to command the best markets1 must pay strict attention to color--not only must he color1 but color well and evenly4 ,we have an objection to color1 for reasons satisfactory to ourselves2 and buyers can have no interest in inducing makers to color their cheese1 beyond the fact that it makes it more marketable--and in this1 patrons and factorymen have a much greater interest than dealers can have4 ,the market demands a rich1 even color1 and will not be satisfied without it4 ,we say1 therefore1 as a matter of dollars and cents--not of taste1 choice or convenience--keep up the color4 ,we will give two recipes for preparing annotto3 #a4 ,to five pounds of prime annotto put five gallons of strong ley1 made from wood ashes2 gradually heat up and dissolve the annotto1 care being taken to not scorch it on the bottom of the kettle4 ,of course thorough stirring is essential4 ,when the annotto is all dissolved1 add five pounds of sal soda and five gallons of soft water4 ,then gently boil the whole for twenty or thirty minutes4 ,this makes about ten gallons of prepared coloring4 ,if boiled away to less1 add sufficient ley and soft water1 in equal quantities1 to make that amount4 ,some omit the sal soda2 but it is generally believed that it not only adds strength to the preparation1 but improves the color by giving it more of a rich1 buttery hue1 instead of a red4 ,the whole1 when sufficiently cooled to handle safely1 should be set in a tub1 with a faucet two or three inches from the bottom1 to settle4 ,when settled1 it can be drawn off1 and is ready for use4 #b4 ,mix in the proportion of five quarts of water to half a pound of concentrated ley1 and one pound of prime annotto4 ,first dissolve the ley in the water1 by heating and stirring1 and then add the annotto1 and dissolve it4 ,boil gently for half an hour4 ,care1 as with the other preparation1 should be taken not to burn it4 ,settle and rack off4 ,then your liquid is ready for use4 ,the second recipe is the one most used1 and is easiest to prepare1 as it avoids the labor1 perplexity and risk of making the ley1 which may not always be of the desired strength1 as the ashes may not be the same4 ,but if ashes are used1 hot water is best to leech through them4 ,a quart of salt to ten gallons of preparation will improve its keeping qualities4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,rennet4 ,an indispensable requisite in making cheese is good rennet4 ,nothing else will answer the purpose4 ,different substitutes have from time to time been tried1 but all have met with indifferent success1 or absolutely failed4 ,acids will produce coagulation1 but they spoil the quality of the cheese4 ,it was once supposed that the gastric juice of the calve's stomach was acid1 and produced coagulation by souring4 ,but it has been demonstrated that good curd can be produced from sweet new milk1 by the use of rennet1 without the development of acid in either the curd or the whey4 ,how or why the principle obtained by soaking the calve's stomach produces coagulation has not yet been discovered4 ,what the principle is1 is not even known4 ,it appears to be contained in the gastric juice secreted by the inner membranes of the stomach1 and a small quantity of rennet1 stirred into a vat of milk1 seems to coagulate it in the same manner that milk taken into the calve's stomach is coagulated4 ,we all know the fact that by the use of rennet we can make cheese4 ,beyond this1 we have little knowledge2 so far as we are aware1 scientific men are just as much in the dark as the cheese-maker4 ,as the stomach of the calf is bifold1 we have seen the mistake frequently made of saving the wrong one4 ,but we presume patrons are generally well informed on this point now1 after so many years' experience4 ,where the stomach is not entirely empty1 the presence of curd is a sure guide4 ,always save the stomach that contains the curd1 and no mistake will be made4 ,if the stomach is empty1 save the one that has a smooth inside surface4 ,the one that has a rough1 honey-comb-like inside surface is worthless for cheese-making1 and should1 of course1 be rejected4 ,there are three or four ways of preserving the rennet or stomach1 for future use4 ,only two1 we believe1 are generally practiced in ,america4 ,in all cases1 the rennet is to be turned wrong side out1 all its contents being thrown away1 and the inner surface carefully cleaned by picking off all hairs and bits of grass1 hay or other substance which the calf may have taken into its stomach4 ,but the rennet should never be washed1 and great care should be taken not to remove any of the inner membrane of the rennet1 as in this membrane resides all its strength4 ,washing would rinse out the gastric juice1 and weaken the rennet2 and much washing would render it nearly or quite worthless4 ,when properly cleaned1 the rennet should be thoroughly rubbed with salt1 outside and in1 turned the right side out1 stretched on a crotched stick or on a hoop1 and hung up in a cool1 dry place1 to cure4 ,in private dairies1 the farmer's wife1 after salting the rennet1 sometimes spreads it on an earthen plate and sets it away to dry1 frequently turning it on the plate4 ,rennets dried in this way are nice1 but it is too much work to tend to them for a general adoption of this method of drying4 ,drying on a stick or a hoop is the common way1 and answers the purpose very well4 ,the only trouble is to find a place both dry and cool4 ,it is generally conceded1 we believe1 that heat injures the strength of the rennet4 ,hence the importance of curing it in a cool place4 ,freezing is thought by many to add to or develop the strength of the rennet4 ,be this as it may1 old rennets1 that have hang up in the dry-house or some other convenient place through the winter1 will go much further in cheese-making than new rennets4 ,another method of preserving rennets is by packing them into salt4 ,this is quite common1 and is practiced by some of our best factories4 ,it is less troublesome than drying them1 and is a sure preventive against moths1 which are apt to get into dried rennets4 ,by salting them down1 there is less trouble to find a cool place in which to keep them during the summer4 ,but care should be taken to use only the purest salt in packing rennets4 ,salt not fit to salt curd with is not fit to pack rennets in1 for when the rennets are used1 the salt will be in the liquid and find its way into the mass of curd4 ,besides1 pure salt is much the better preservative1 and will keep either meat or rennets sweeter than impure salt4 ,some think rennets preserved in this way are not as strong as those that are dried4 ,we do not quite see the philosophy of this1 since by packing in salt1 none of the virtues of the rennet can escape by evaporation1 and must be retained either in the rennet or in the salt4 ,it may be said that the salt injures the strength of the rennet4 ,if so1 why does it not prove equally injurious when the rennet is dried8 ,in both methods of preserving1 salt is freely used--generally all that the rennet will absorb4 ,a batch of dried rennets may go farther than the same number packed in salt1 and vice versa2 but this does not prove that the same rennets would not have equal virtues preserved by either method4 ,the ,german method of preserving rennets is by blowing them up like a bladder1 and drying them4 ,this is the way in which the ,bavarian rennets1 which reach this country1 are preserved4 ,we believe no salt is used4 ,the method is simple1 and if it answers the purpose equally well1 we see not why it may not be adopted in this country4 ,we understand that the ,bavarian rennets give very good satisfaction4 ,but1 as we have never used them1 nor seen them used1 we cannot speak from positive knowledge4 ,veal rennets are generally supposed to be better than deacon rennets4 ,certain it is that the stomach of a calf that never sucked the cow is not worth much in cheese-making4 ,it is both small and weak4 ,it seems to be necessary that the process of digestion should go on for a while1 at least1 that all the functions of the animal may become active and a full secretion of gastric juice take place4 ,some are of the opinion that the rennet is best when the calf is from three to five days old1 as at that age it is not likely to have taken anything but milk into its stomach1 which is best prepared for digesting that kind of food1 the first process of which is coagulation4 ,veal calves are apt to get hold of other food1 and the stomach is therefore less exclusively adapted to a milk diet4 ,hence1 it is argued1 if the veal rennet is better than the deacon1 the stomach of the cow or ox ought to be better than that of the veal calf4 ,whatever may be the conclusion1 we have1 and shall probably continue to have1 both deacon and veal rennets1 both kinds of which have been found to work satisfactorily4 ,much seems to depend on the condition of the calf when killed4 ,if it goes too long without food1 the stomach gets inflamed and is not only deprived of its strength1 but is partially diseased1 and1 therefore1 unfit for cheese-making4 ,this is the condition of most of the rennets taken from calves killed in our larger cities1 the calves going without food sometimes two or three days4 ,on the other hand1 when the calf has a full stomach1 the juices seem to be absorbed in the food1 and the rennet is1 therefore1 weak4 ,the best time for killing the calf appears to be just after the stomach has emptied itself1 when the appetite of the calf begins to be sharp and the secretions of gastric juice are copious4 ,this will generally be found from twelve to eighteen hours after eating4 ,if fed at night1 it may be killed any time the next forenoon4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,preparing ,,rennet4 ,the process of preparing rennet for use is very simple1 and so generally understood that we need not more than give a few hints on the subject4 ,in putting rennets to soak1 care should be taken not to allow any tainted ones to get into the batch4 ,when they are packed in salt1 it is not difficult to make a selection4 ,if the poor rennet does not smell1 it will be pretty likely to be discolored and unhealthful looking1 instead of having a whitish1 wholesome appearance4 ,all rennets thus discolored should be thrown away as worse than useless--as positively injurious4 ,if the rennets are dried1 it may not be so easy to detect the poor ones before putting them to soak4 ,after soaking1 their quality will be quite apparent2 but much of their injurious effect may be avoided by promptly rejecting them without rubbing4 ,it is generally1 and we believe correctly1 understood that diseased or tainted rennets produce both huffy and bad-keeping cheese1 by the introduction of decayed animal substances4 ,it certainly cannot improve the quality of the cheese to mix with it the broth of carrion4 ,clear whey is the common and best liquid for soaking rennets4 ,water was once and is now sometimes used1 but it needs to be very soft and pure1 and is improved by boiling4 ,we have never tried water1 but it is asserted by those who have used it for soaking rennets that a batch prepared with it will not keep sweet as long as one prepared with whey1 but that boiling the water keeps it sweet longer than it will keep if not boiled4 ,we think the purer the whey the better1 and therefore prefer that which first separates from the curd after setting4 ,some are not particular1 and some prefer the salt whey that runs from the presses4 ,there is a saving of salt in this1 but we think this liquid cannot be as good to introduce into milk as that containing less cheesy and buttery particles4 ,boiling the whey and skimming it1 afterward allowing it to cool and settle1 that the sediment may also be excluded1 is said to be a great improvement1 and we can easily believe this to be true4 ,it is not only free from impurities1 but it forms a sharp acid that acts readily upon the rennets and extracts more completely the pepsin1 gastric juice1 or whatever it may be that coagulates the milk4 ,it is said that quite a saving in rennets can be effected by using scalded whey for soaking them4 ,twenty or twenty-five prime rennets put into a half barrel of whey will make a good preparation4 ,it can be made stronger1 of course1 by the addition of more rennets1 or pouring in a less amount of whey2 but it is questionable if the entire strength can be extracted by using a less quantity of whey in proportion to the number of rennets4 ,they need to be rubbed at least three times1 each time in a new batch of whey4 ,the second time the preparation will be found about as strong as the first4 ,the third rubbing and rinsing may be in fresh whey to be used for soaking a new batch of rennets4 ,we like to have two tubs or jars for soaking the rennets1 one for the first and the other for the second rubbing1 alternately4 ,after rubbing the second time1 put the rennets in a sack made of strainer cloth1 to keep them separate1 and soak them with the batch intended for the next second rubbing4 ,in this way the strength of the preparation from the batch may be kept equal to that from the first4 ,rub the third time1 and rinse in fresh whey1 as before indicated1 when the strength will be found pretty completely extracted4 ,if dried rennets are used1 it will be necessary to add salt to the whey when the batch is put to soak4 ,every time new whey is added1 more salt will be required4 ,where the rennets are packed in salt there will usually be salt enough for the first soaking adhering to them2 if not1 it may be increased in quantity by a few handfuls of that loose in the barrel in which they have been packed4 ,as the rennets will float on the whey1 they should be thoroughly stirred up as often as night and morning1 and a little salt sprinkled over those left on the top4 ,we prefer stone jars1 both for soaking rennets and to keep the prepared rennet in1 because they are so much more easily kept sweet than wooden tubs can be4 ,of all things1 we detest a stinking rennet tub or jar4 ,frequent scalding1 when emptied1 is necessary4 ,when the preparation is kept in a tub1 it will be advantageous to rub a little salt1 each morning1 on the sides of the tub left exposed to the air1 after setting the milk1 by the lowering of the liquid4 ,by all means1 do anything and everything that may be necessary to keep the rennet tubs or jars from stinking so badly that the stench will nearly suffocate one on uncovering them4 ,a sweet rennet tub is the evidence of important qualities in a cheese-maker--care and cleanliness4 ,of course1 there are various ways of managing1 as regards quantity1 convenience's sake1 and so on1 but we do not believe the principles involved in the process of selecting and preparing rennets for use1 as we have given it1 can be violated or neglected without loss in some manner4 ,the importance of properly-prepared rennet1 and of keeping it sweet and clean1 cannot be too highly estimated4 ,bad luck in cheese-making might not infrequently be traced to the rennet tub2 while good luck may be as often traced to the same source4 ,look out for your rennets and take care of your rennet-tubs or jars4 ,they may make or mar your fortune4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,setting4 ,the temperature of #hb to #hf is generally considered the best for setting--the former in hot and the latter in cold weather4 ,this gives an average of #hd for mild weather4 ,perhaps this point is as good as any for setting4 ,but it is worth bearing in mind that the milk will coagulate sooner1 after adding the rennet1 at a high than at a low temperature4 ,the same milk will set quicker at #hf than at #hb1 and at the points in the vat where the heat is greatest1 or the milk cools least by radiation1 the curd will become tough and difficult to cut1 while other parts of the mass will remain tender and cut easily4 ,this not only demonstrates the greater activity of the rennet at a higher heat1 but the importance of an even heat throughout1 and of keeping it from falling4 ,some throw a cloth over the vat1 after the milk begins to thicken and agitation is no longer necessary to keep the cream from rising4 ,this is a good practice1 we believe1 as it retards the reduction of temperature by radiation1 and keeps the heat more equalized4 ,this will secure a more uniform action of the rennet1 and render the cutting less difficult and less liable to cause waste4 ,when the rennet is once added and thoroughly incorporated with the milk1 we believe it would be better if the mass could have perfect rest until the curd is ready to cut4 ,we think the curd is more likely to be spongy in consequence of the continued or frequent agitation kept up to prevent the cream from rising4 ,all know that a stir too much after the milk begins to look thick1 and roll heavily1 prevents the formation of a solid curd4 ,it refuses to unite in one uniform mass1 and remains in small1 separate particles4 ,but1 when the milk is all right1 observation will show that such a curd makes fine cheese1 though there is great waste from the fine particles floating off with the whey4 ,and why will it make fine cheese8 ,because it is in small particles1 gets thoroughly and evenly cooked1 and the butter is equally distributed through it4 ,but the difficulty of preventing the cream from rising and forming a cream-curd1 that will float on the whey1 if it does not waste1 needs to be overcome before we can allow the milk perfect rest after incorporating the rennet4 ,we are not aware of any method for accomplishing this4 ,agitation of the surface1 at least1 seems necessary to retain the cream2 but if the surface only is agitated1 manifestly the cream will escape from the bottom of the mass and impoverish it while enriching the top4 ,a thorough stirring of the whole mass1 therefore1 will keep the cream more equally distributed1 and it will also secure a greater uniformity of temperature4 ,the cheese must be of evener texture than if made of curd of different degrees of richness mixed together4 ,it is a question for debate as to whether the cream which rises on milk is thoroughly incorporated with it by stirring4 ,that butter is wasted in making cheese1 is a fact that cannot be denied4 ,some think that nearly all the cream that rises on the vat during the night is floated off in the whey4 ,we cannot indorse this conclusion1 although it is asserted that where agitators are used1 and the cream is thus prevented from rising1 there is a great saving of the butter4 ,but one fact is worth a thousand fictions in the practical affairs of life1 whatever it be in romance4 ,cream will mix with the milk by stirring1 and go to enrich the cheese1 as is proved in the manufacture of the ,english ,stilton cheese4 ,in the manufacture of this1 the cream of the night's milk is taken off and added to the morning's milk1 which is worked up separately4 ,the cheese is greatly enriched thereby4 ,how much the waste of butter is increased1 we are unable to say4 ,we know from our own experience1 that skimming the night's milk1 instead of stirring in the cream1 makes a marked difference in the yield and quality of the make4 ,the first thing in setting1 when a vat of milk is raised to the proper temperature1 is to add the coloring4 ,this is a strong alkaline preparation1 and must have a tendency to retard the development of the lactic acid1 if it does not combine with it in forming a neutral salt4 ,if no effect is perceptible1 beyond the color it imparts1 it is simply because the quantity is so small4 ,probably the effect of the alkali in the annotto is more than counteracted by the acid in the rennet4 ,nothing as good as clear whey has been found for soaking rennets4 ,some think the acid an advantage in the working of the milk1 and others go so far as to add1 in cold weather1 a quantity of sharp whey to the milk along with that in the prepared rennet4 ,this1 of course1 hastens the development of acid throughout the mass4 ,but we cannot say that we approve of doing anything to change the milk1 and thus sour the curd before cooking4 ,we prefer to have the milk as sweet as possible when set1 and to keep the curd sweet until it is cooked4 ,then we would develop the acid in the whey4 ,for this reason1 if sour whey is to be added1 we should add it after the curd is cooked1 for the purpose of hastening the development of the lactic acid in the whey4 ,this seems to us to be the most rational course1 from what our experience has taught us4 ,if fair experiment should demonstrate that we are in error as to when and where the development of the acid should take place1 we shall be willing to yield the point4 ,the amount of prepared rennet that it is necessary to add to the milk1 depends upon its strength1 which can be determined only by experiment4 ,sufficient should be used to coagulate the milk in ten or fifteen minutes1 and render it fit to cut in thirty or forty minutes4 ,if the milk is old1 the same quantity of rennet will cause it to work sooner1 as it should4 ,some would add less rennet4 ,we would not4 ,the milk needs to work faster1 and the acid1 although it coagulates the milk1 will not supply the place of the rennet4 ,the rennet ought to be strong enough to require not more than a quart to a thousand pounds of milk4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,cutting ,,curds4 ,cheese-making was once carried on without cutting the curd2 and even since the introduction of the factory system1 there have been those who denounced the idea of using a cutting instrument4 ,breaking up the curd with the hands was considered the better method as incurring less waste1 both of butter and cheese4 ,such ideas1 though entertained but a few years ago1 are obsolete4 ,cutting curds is now universal1 certainly in ,america4 ,the only questions are as to the time1 manner and extent of cutting4 ,when should the curd be cut8 ,practically1 there is little difference of opinion on this question4 ,some may cut a little sooner or later than others1 and even the same person may not always be precise as to the time of cutting4 ,but all will agree that a curd should not be cut before it is firm enough to break square and smooth over the finger without whitening the whey2 and they will also agree that it should be cut before it gets tough enough to drive along ahead of the knife4 ,we would cut it as soon as it can be done without waste1 while the curd is tender2 and we would do all the cutting at once4 ,there is no sense in running the knife through the curd one way1 and then letting the curd stand and toughen before cross-cutting and completing the operation4 ,if it is fit to partly cut1 it is fit to wholly cut2 and the sooner the cutting is done with1 the better4 ,time for the separation of the whey can be given after the cutting is done1 and before the heat is further raised4 ,the cutting should be done as carefully as possible and as evenly as possible4 ,the fewer the motions1 the better4 ,if it could be done instantaneously and uniformly1 without agitation1 it would be an advantage4 ,at the right time1 we would like to have the entire vat of curd instantaneously separated into pieces of uniform size4 ,this is the end to be aimed at4 ,we are far from reaching it with present appliances4 ,we can only approximate it as nearly as possible4 ,a knife1 therefore1 with blades near together is preferable to one with blades farther apart4 ,as to the extent of the cutting1 there is more difference of opinion1 though the difference has much diminished since the mania for coarse curds ran its course4 ,a few yet cling to this exploded notion2 but the great majority choose a medium degree of fineness4 ,it has been found that the large pieces do not sufficiently cook1 especially if the milk is old enough to work quick4 ,the consequence is an uneven texture1 and a deteriorated flavor4 ,sufficient whey remains in the centers of the large lumps to ferment and give the cheese the smell of the whey-vat1 if it does not sour and cause the cheese to become leaky and dry4 ,possibly1 if the weather be favorable for curing1 the whey may collect in pungent drops throughout the cheese1 showing themselves when cut somewhat as they do in the ,limburger4 ,such cheese1 we think1 is likely to ultimately approximate the ,limburger in both odor and flavor4 ,it will please some tastes1 but will not answer for the best markets4 ,medium curds are now the rule4 ,as cheese-makers have approximated fine curds1 they have improved the quality of their cheese4 ,we believe still finer cutting will prove a further advantage4 ,we will give our reasons for thinking so1 and will add that our experience1 as far as it goes1 corroborates the idea4 ,it secures a more uniform action of the heat and separation of the whey1 and therefore an evener texture and better flavor1 with correspondingly improved keeping qualities4 ,what is the object and advantage of cutting at all8 ,why not let the curd remain in one unbroken mass8 ,we cut the curd for the purpose of facilitating the separation of the fluids from the solids by the combined action of the rennet and heat4 ,is it not desirable that this action should be uniform on every particle of curd8 ,we think this question will be generally answered in the affirmative4 ,if so1 then it must be conceded that the finer the curd is cut the more nearly the desired result will be attained4 ,if it could be separated particle from particle1 without waste1 would not the action of the heat and rennet be more perfect still8 ,when in lumps1 the externals of them must necessarily be cooked more than the centers1 and the evil of over-cooking--if there is such an evil with a blood heat temperature--is illy counteracted by the mixture of curd cooked to different degrees--some overdone and some underdone4 ,it should all be cooked alike1 to whatever degree the cooking may be carried4 ,this will secure uniformity of texture and quality1 and also clean flavor1 if the cooking is complete4 ,but1 of course1 in cutting a curd fine there is danger of waste--waste of curd1 but not necessarily waste of butter1 unless the curd is sour4 ,then it is impossible to avoid waste of butter by any process that we are aware of--and with a sour curd there is all the more necessity for cutting fine and cooking rapidly and thoroughly4 ,with proper care1 the evil of sour milk can be avoided4 ,with good sweet milk and proper management1 there is very little danger of waste of any kind1 cut as fine as we can with the common knife4 ,we would cut so that the pieces when cooked should not be larger than kernels of corn2 and though many object to it1 we should not1 if the pieces were as small as buckwheat--and as regular in size4 ,we would not use a knife with the blades more than a quarter of an inch apart4 ,though we have never used a knife for cutting horizontally1 the idea commends itself to our judgment4 ,we would carefully cut first with the horizontal knife1 leaving the thin slabs of curd lying one upon the other4 ,then1 without waiting for the whey to rise or the curd to sink1 we would use the perpendicular blades lengthwise of the vat1 reducing the slabs to long square strips1 and follow this with the cross-cutting until the pieces were at least as small as beechnuts4 ,after this1 the curd may be allowed to stand a few minutes1 for the whey to separate1 before starting the heat--provided the milk is sweet enough to permit of delay4 ,but if the milk should give any indication of being old1 we would begin at once to gradually raise the heat2 if quite old and changed1 we would crowd the heat as fast as practicable4 ,to sum up in brief1 we would cut a curd and complete the cutting as soon as it can be done without waste2 we would cut it as expeditiously as possible and with as few motions2 we would cut it as fine as care against waste would warrant2 we would raise the heat as gradually and evenly as circumstances would permit2 we would cook as thoroughly and as evenly as possible2 we would keep up the heat until the curd is done2 we would then let the acid develop in the whey until it is plainly changed2 we would dip as warm as convenient1 drain and salt1 cool to at least #hj1 and then put to press4 ,with good milk1 good rennet and a good place to cure the cheese in1 we should expect in this way to turn out a tip-top article4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,heat4 ,one of the most important elements in cheese-making is heat2 but we do not believe the importance of its proper regulation is sufficiently understood by our cheese-makers4 ,we are aware that cheese can be made without the use of artificial heat4 ,it is not such an article1 however1 as would meet with a ready sale1 or be likely to increase the consumptive demand for cheese4 ,a good-keeping1 mild and nutty-flavored cheese cannot readily be produced1 if at all1 with a temperature lower than #if2 nor can a rich1 buttery article be made with a temperature over #ajb4 ,we consider #f the widest allowable range of heat1 and think #ih to #ajj1 or full blood-heat1 the best temperature4 ,evenness and steadiness of temperature are two important points4 ,that apparatus is best which heats the milk throughout the vat the most evenly--leaves it the freest from hot places and cold places1 at the sides1 ends1 or on the bottom4 ,a perfect apparatus would raise the temperature of every particle of milk at the same time and at the same rate2 and retain this perfectly even heat at the desired point until the cooking is completed4 ,the difficulty1 with most or all heating apparatus1 is to raise the heat of the entire mass to the required temperature1 without submitting some particles to a greater degree of heat than is necessary1 or heating them in advance of the rest1 to be stirred in and partially cooled again4 ,we believe that an even cook or scald is of the utmost importance1 and that everything that can be should be done to secure that end4 ,if thoroughly accomplished1 with sweet milk to begin with1 we have no fears as to the richness1 fine flavor and good keeping qualities of the cheese4 ,there is no other thing1 in our opinion1 which will go so far toward securing these three desirable qualities4 ,another thing1 as before indicated1 we consider of great importance in securing a thorough cooking and proper separation of the whey from the curd4 ,we refer to steadiness of temperature4 ,it seems to us a great mistake1 when the temperature is once up1 to not keep it there1 without rising or lowering4 ,it seems a misapplication of terms to speak of cooking or scalding at a temperature of #ih or #ajj degrees2 yet1 we all know that blood-heat is all that is required for cheese-making4 ,this heat seems necessary4 ,perhaps it is because nature designed the gastric juice from the rennet to operate at the temperature4 ,it is a well established fact that digestion will not go on when the temperature of the stomach is below that of blood-heat4 ,we presume a much higher temperature is equally detrimental4 ,this may account for the fact that blood-heat is the best for cheese-making1 as at that temperature the rennet is most active4 ,be this as it may1 we are satisfied that the process is retarded and the curd deteriorated by allowing the temperature to fall during the time it is in the scald4 ,instead of cooking1 and condensing1 as it should1 in order to expel the whey1 it is only soaking and souring4 ,the moment the acid is sufficiently developed1 though the curd be yet soft and raw1 the whey is drawn1 the curd is further cooled and soaked1 and then dipped1 drained1 salted and put to press4 ,a leaky cheese is the result4 ,if the weather is cool and bad for curing1 a sour cheese follows4 ,but whatever the weather may be1 we doubt if a leaky cheese ever yet turned out all right in flavor and quality4 ,it can never have that nutty1 new-milk flavor which belongs to cheese properly cooked4 ,we presume there are those who will differ with us in opinion1 but we should demand the positive evidence of at least four senses before believing we are wrong4 ,we say1 therefore1 raise your temperature gradually and evenly1 to full blood-heat1 and there retain it until your curd is ready to dip4 ,then we believe it would be an advantage to dip and drain1 without cooling more than what cannot be avoided1 and salt warm4 ,but of salting1 we will speak more at length some other time4 ,we are now discussing the question of heat4 ,let us give a little every-day illustration4 ,suppose the housewife were to put her potatoes for dinner in a kettle of water1 run the heat up to #bab1 and then allow it to cool by radiation until the potatoes are done4 ,what kind of a dish would they make8 ,or1 after she had cooked her potatoes1 suppose she should let them stand and soak until they are cool enough to handle without danger of burning or scalding any one4 ,who would want to eat the watery things8 ,the truth is1 #bab is the proper temperature for boiling potatoes1 and the sooner and hotter you can get them out of the water1 the better4 ,so1 in our opinion1 blood-heat1 or #ih to #ajj1 is the proper temperature for cooking cheese curd1 and that after the curd is done1 the sooner and warmer it is dipped1 the better for the curd--the sweeter1 richer-flavored and better grained 7not pasty1 but more of the consistency of hard1 well-made butter1 which shows the batter globules whole7 will be the cheese1 and its keeping qualities will be correspondingly improved4 ,it may be a little more work to cool the curd in the air1 and harder keeping it from packing2 but if dipped warm1 the whey will the sooner drain off1 and the salt can be the sooner thrown on1 when it will penetrate quicker1 season the mass more evenly1 and form a coating to the particles of curd1 which will keep them from packing together4 ,but whether the curd is cooled before dipping or not1 we maintain that it is a great advantage to keep the temperature up to blood-heat during the entire process after the heat is once raised4 ,with self-heating apparatus1 this can be done by keeping a very little fire going--just enough to supply the loss of heat from radiation4 ,where the heating is done by running warm water around the milk-vat1 a current of the proper temperature can be kept up4 ,if steam is used1 perhaps a small jet can be kept pouring into the space around the vat4 ,but in all these cases1 the danger is that too high a temperature will have to be kept up at the point of applying the heat1 in order to prevent the temperature of the whole mass from falling4 ,this is a decided objection1 and necessitates a great deal of stirring1 which is only a palliative of and not a remedy for the evil4 ,of course we write with reference to the management of heat with milk that is sweet and in proper condition for cheese-making4 ,where it is old1 or tainted1 to begin with1 it is necessary to hurry the heat1 and every operation connected with the process of making it up4 ,a higher temperature and less time will be found to produce a very similar effect to a lower temperature and more time4 ,but1 in all cases1 an even1 steady heat should be aimed at and maintained to the end4 ,we never could quite understand the philosophy of cooking less in the spring and fall than in the summer4 ,the idea that it makes the cheese more buttery to dip the curd raw1 seems to us very absurd4 ,if there is any time when a curd needs to be thoroughly cooked1 it is when the weather is cool and unfavorable for curing4 ,if the whey is not properly expelled by the action of heat1 it has got to either dry out or leak out1 or both4 ,if there is too much left in the curd to dry out1 long before it can leak out1 your cheese will be sour1 with a puckered face1 and sundry ugly cracks4 ,even when the cheese does not absolutely drip1 if the curd is dipped while underdone1 it will sour1 the face will have a corrugated appearance1 and the cheese will try crumbly and sour4 ,the color will also be paler than in those that are properly cooked1 the general look will be clammy1 and no rind will form that will be satisfactory4 ,even when well-cooked and well-made1 if a cheese does not have sufficient warmth1 it will sour on the ranges and spoil2 and it stands to reason that cheese made from a curd insufficiently cooked must work a great deal worse under unfavorable conditions for curing4 ,our experience is1 that a curd needs more cooking in the spring and fall than will answer in hot1 dry weather4 ,if we must have a curd dipped soft at any season of the year1 we say let it be at that season when the weather is best for drying and curing4 ,a cheese that would become worthless on the ranges in cold1 wet weather1 may turn out pretty fair in dog days4 ,but we do not believe in undercooking at any time4 ,food1 of all kinds1 needs as much cooking one season of the year as another4 ,it is quite likely1 however1 that a degree or two lower heat will answer in cool weather1 for the reason that milk keeps better then1 and the curd remains longer in the scald before taking on acid4 ,in this case1 we have a lower heat for a longer time1 which will produce the same result as a higher heat for a shorter time4 ,but in both cases the curd ought to be cooked the same4 ,whatever degree of heat is decided upon1 let it be kept up1 steady and uniform throughout the mass1 and at all seasons of the year let the curd be cooked done4 ,this is specially important when the conditions for curing are unfavorable4 ,you must do1 then1 in the vat part of the work which can be done on the ranges when the weather is favorable4 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,acid4 ,another important agent in cheese-making is acid4 ,this you are pretty sure to have1 at some stage of the process1 and the chief question seems to be as to when you will have it4 ,it is said that milk fresh from the cow manifests the presence of lactic acid4 ,the quantity is very slight1 however1 and under favorable circumstances the development is slow4 ,where milk is properly cooled immediately after being taken from the cow1 and the factoryman has good facilities for keeping it cool1 it will be found1 when the time comes to begin the process of working up1 what is called sweet4 ,it will not taste as fresh and clean as when first cooled after milking2 but no acid will be perceptible to either taste or smell--not even enough to make it what is termed old4 ,some think age makes the milk all the better for cheese-making1 and we believe it is generally understood that milk fresh from the cow does not work quite satisfactorily4 ,however1 we place no great stress on this opinion4 ,old milk will work quicker than new milk2 the acid will develop sooner to the point desired by the cheese-maker1 and this saving of time doubtless has something to do with the decision in favor of age in milk for the purpose of cheese-making4 ,our impression is1 that milk cannot be too sweet when the rennet is added1 and that if sufficient time is taken to develop the acid in the whey before dipping1 the fresh milk will be found to turn out the finest-flavored and best-keeping cheese4 ,the acid is not wanted in the curd1 but in the whey4 ,if the milk is sour1 to begin with1 or quite advanced toward sourness1 the lactic acid must pervade every particle of the whole mass4 ,now1 it strikes us that the correct idea is to expel the whey from the curd1 as far as possible1 before the acid makes its appearance1 and let the acid develop in the whey afterward1 so as to furnish a sort of pickle4 ,the acid will develop sharply at some stage in the process2 and1 as we have before said1 the question to be decided seems to be as to what point it is best to have it develop at4 ,we say1 with the light we at present have before us1 we think the acid should never be allowed to develop much before the curd is cooked and the whey is properly expelled2 then let the whey take on acid to quite a perceptible degree before dipping the curd4 ,we doubt if it makes much difference whether the acidulation takes place while the curd is floating in the whey1 or after the whey is drawn off and while the curd stands and drains4 ,there is rather more convenience in handling to leave the whey on and stir the curd sufficiently to keep it from packing2 but the cheddar cheese1 which is generally considered the best of any1 is made by stacking the curd1 after cooking1 and allowing the whey that clings to it to take on acid4 ,but where the milk is all right1 to begin with1 and the curd is properly managed and cooked1 we doubt if it makes any material difference which process is adopted for allowing the acid to develop4 ,with such a curd1 there is little danger of its being injured by the acid1 as any one can demonstrate by allowing curd to stand unpressed over night1 as is often done with small remnants1 when the pieces will be found covered with an almost vinegar-sour acid4 ,grind this curd and put it to press1 and there will be no signs of sour cheese4 ,the development of the acid is absolutely necessary to secure good keeping qualities and a mild1 clean flavor4 ,dip a curd before the whey has become perceptibly acid1 or is on the verge of changing1 and we think that a rank1 bitter flavor will be sure to follow4 ,the absence of sufficient lactic acid leaves the albumen in a condition likely to decompose1 while the butyric acid develops itself1 as in rancid butter1 and the two combine to make a very unpalatable flavor to one nice about the taste of his cheese4 ,some prefer strong cheese4 ,to such1 the nearer the flavor approaches that of smoked herring and tobacco1 the greater the gustatory gratification4 ,the principal difficulty in working up sour milk is to get sufficient action of the rennet and heat on the curd to properly condense it and expel the whey4 ,it is a mistake1 therefore1 to dip a curd soft because it is sour4 ,run your heat up to #ajd or even #ajf1 as soon as possible1 and keep it there until your curd is cooked4 ,it is sour1 and nothing but cooking will save it1 if anything will4 ,the whey must and will come out4 ,if you do not expel it from the particles of curd in the vat1 you will not be able to press it out sufficiently to keep it from working and leaking out while the cheese stands on the ranges4 ,if anything will prevent sour milk from making leaky cheese1 it is thorough cooking4 ,this process you should hurry up as much as possible--always having an eye to keeping the heat even1 and preventing waste of butter4 ,the acid1 acting on the butter globules1 makes their coatings tender4 ,therefore1 handle the curd as carefully as possible1 cool well before putting to press1 and press gently1 increasing the pressure gradually4 ,but1 if you have succeeded in getting your curd properly cooked1 you have done one of the best things possible to retain the butter4 ,if1 when you put the curd to press1 you find you have more than the usual bulk of curd1 filling the hoops fuller and refusing to yield readily to the pressure of the screw--as is generally the case with sour milk1 as managed in most factories--you may know that you have not done your work thoroughly1 and therefore look out for leaky1 sour1 poor cheese4 ,on the other hand1 if you have condensed the curd to the usual bulk1 so that it works well under the screw1 you may hope for a fair cheese1 that may pass muster when the buyer comes along4 ,we often hear the remark1 when anything is said about developing the acid1 ,no sour cheese for me2 ,i prefer to dip my curd sweet4 ,people who talk in this way either make bitter1 bad-flavored cheese1 or else get on more acid than they are aware of1 in consequence of having dull taste and smell4 ,they judge by the appearance and feel of the curd when it is in condition to dip1 and may succeed in hitting the right point4 ,in hot weather1 it is hardly possible not to develop the acid sufficiently4 ,but if they really dip the curd sweet1 we do not believe it possible that their cheese can be up to the standard demanded by the best markets1 though they may succeed in getting a fair price for it4 ,not all buyers are really good judges1 and fewer still know what the matter is with a cheese that is imperfectly made4 ,they know1 perhaps1 that there is something wrong about it2 but what1 they are unable to say4 ,further1 we believe the average price of ,american cheese lower than it should be1 in consequence of so little really prime cheese1 and of the large amount of second-rate2 and that1 as yet1 our buyers are not sufficiently discriminating in their purchases and prices1 though they are yearly growing more so4 ,both buyers and cheese-makers need more experience and a better understanding of what is requisite in the manufacture of a prime article4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,dipping ,,curds4 ,there is nothing so difficult in cheese-making as to determine the exact point when a curd ought to be taken out of the vat and salted4 ,a slight variation either way from this point makes an uneven lot of cheese1 and much variation spoils the batch1 so that it will not pass for prime4 ,every cheese-maker has felt the want of some test whereby the exact point1 when a curd is sufficiently done to dip1 can be determined with certainty4 ,neither the sense of smell1 the sense of taste1 nor the sense of touch is infallible4 ,the evidence of this fact can be seen in any factory during the season of cheese-making4 ,a simple test of acidity1 which is claimed to be conclusive1 is the application of a hot iron to a lump of curd4 ,the iron wants to be searing hot--not red hot1 but hot enough to toast cheese4 ,take up a small handful of curd1 squeeze the whey out of it1 and touch the hot iron to it1 holding it there for a moment1 or until it adheres and begins to melt or toast the cheese4 ,then pull the iron gently away from the curd4 ,if the curd is raw and sweet1 it will break short off from the iron and appear crumbly4 ,if slightly acid1 it will slightly pull out in threads1 but not very long ones4 ,as the acid develops1 the stringiness increases4 ,at a certain point1 the curd will cling to the iron and pull out in numerous fine threads an inch or two long4 ,beyond this point1 the threads grow longer but fewer1 until there will be only one1 which will draw out a foot or so1 and then break1 recoiling somewhat like ,india-rubber4 ,indeed1 the curd grows tougher and more stringy from the time it begins to take on acid perceptibly1 until it finally ends in stringing indefinitely1 like wax1 having passed the point of breaking and flying back4 ,the successive stages of development are gradual1 but very marked1 and cannot fail to be recognized after a few experiments4 ,thus having obtained a means of telling the degree of acid developed1 it only remains to be decided at what point to dip the curd4 ,it is claimed that the proper one is where the threads are the finest and most numerous4 ,beyond this point1 the threads diminish in number but increase in length1 which is an indication of too much acid4 ,it is asserted that the hot iron test is uniform and reliable1 besides being easy of application4 ,cheese-makers can make their own experiments1 and we advise them to try the hot iron to their own satisfaction4 ,if it should prove as conclusive as good judges think it will1 it will be of immense value to our dairymen4 ,this test reminds us of the test used by maple-sugar makers to determine when the batch has reached the point where it will grain and cake well4 ,they make a small bow of a twig1 dip it into the sugar1 which adheres to and fills it1 and then they blow through the bow4 ,if no bubble forms and floats off like a soap-bubble1 the batch is not done4 ,but if they can blow a string of bubbles1 or one long bubble1 it is time to remove the heat4 ,the stringing of the cheese-curd1 on the application of the hot iron1 seems to afford a very similar test for the cheese-maker4 ,it is not claimed that the use of the hot iron will necessarily insure the making of good cheese4 ,it only determines the degree of acidity1 which is one very important point4 ,other things are requisite to the manufacture of a prime article1 and the same care1 attention1 and labor1 in other matters1 will remain just as essential4 ,by using the hot iron1 however1 it is claimed that the cheese-maker can tell1 every time1 just how sour his curd is4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,salting ,,curds4 ,we believe there is not much controversy on the question of salting curd4 ,one says1 salt it hot1 and another says1 cool it first4 ,but the variation in temperature is but a few degrees1 and can hardly be supposed to have much effect4 ,on the whole1 we prefer salting as warm as practicable1 as the curd then takes the salt better and the seasoning is likely to be evener4 ,but the sooner the salt is thrown on1 the greater the waste will be from running off in the whey4 ,if the curd were thoroughly drained1 or pressed out1 as it is by the ,english in the manufacture of cheddar cheese1 before the salt is added1 considerable less would be needed4 ,some salt the curd in the vat1 while it is yet covered with whey1 and think this the better way4 ,we opine1 however1 it matters but little when the salt is added1 if it be distributed evenly throughout the mass of curd and is used in the proper quantity4 ,the common method is to salt in the curd-sink1 while the curd is draining--generally as soon after it is dipped as it can be stirred into a loose condition suitable for evenly mixing the salt4 ,we have heard the opinion expressed that it matters not whether the curd is well separated after salting1 or left in coarse chunks with the salt adhering to their surfaces when put to press1 as salt is very penetrating and the pressing drives the salt whey all through the cheese4 ,but the common practice is not based on such a conclusion1 and we think it well that it is not4 ,even salting we consider as essential in cheese-making as in butter-making4 ,the amount of salt used at the different factories varies from four ounces to five ounces for a hundred pounds of milk1 or from two pounds and a half to three pounds and an eighth for a thousand pounds of milk1 or a hundred pounds of curd4 ,the higher rate of salting is thought to somewhat retard the curing1 but it will help the keeping qualities of the cheese4 ,for convenience sake1 and to save time and the liability to mistakes when in a hurry1 we would recommend the making of a scale or table1 based on the rate of salting adopted1 ranging from twenty or twenty-five pounds up to a hundred1 and then for the hundreds up to the capacity of the vat4 ,it takes but a little while1 during some leisure hour1 to make such a tabular scale4 ,when made and stuck up in some convenient place--say1 over the salt barrel1 or over the balances--it will enable any one not familiar with or quick in figures to see at a glance how much salt is needed for the curd of a given amount of milk4 ,it is a convenience1 too1 that will last as long as the factory1 if taken care of4 ,for the benefit of whom it may concern1 we give the following tables3 ,,table ,,for ,,salting ,,at ,,the ,,rate ,,of #b ,,lbs4 #h ,,ozs4 ,,to #a1jjj ,,lbs4 ,,of ,,milk4 ---------------------------------------- ---------- ,,milk4 ,,salt4 ,,milk4 ,,salt4 ---------------------------------------- -------- lbs4 lbs4 ozs4 lbs4 lbs4 ozs4 #be #j #a #a1jjj #b #h #ej #j #b #b1jjj #e #j #ge #j #c #c1jjj #g #h #ajj #j #d #d1jjj #aj #j #bjj #j #h #e1jjj #ab #h #cjj #j #ab #f1jjj #ae #j #djj #a #j #g1jjj #ag #h #ejj #a #d #h1jjj #bj #j #fjj #a #h #i1jjj #bb #h #gjj #a #ab #hjj #b #j #ijj #b #d ---------------------------------------- -------- ,,table ,,for ,,salting ,,at ,,the ,,rate ,,of #c ,,lbs4 #b ,,ozs4 ,,to #a1jjj ,,lbs4 ,,of ,,milk4 ---------------------------------------- ---------- ,,milk4 ,,salt4 ,,milk4 ,,salt4 ---------------------------------------- -------- lbs4 lbs4 ozs4 lbs4 lbs4 ozs4 #bj #j #a #a1jjj #c #b #dj #j #b #b1jjj #f #d #fj #j #c #c1jjj #i #f #hj #j #d #d1jjj #ab #h #ajj #j #e #e1jjj #ae #aj #bjj #j #aj #f1jjj #ah #ab #cjj #j #ae #g1jjj #ba #ad #djj #a #d #h1jjj #be #j #ejj #a #i #i1jjj #bh #b #fjj #a #ad #gjj #b #c #hjj #b #h #ijj #b #ac ---------------------------------------- -------- ,we presume the method of using these tables will be plain enough to most cheese-makers4 ,but we will give a single illustration4 ,supposing the batch of milk to be #d1fdj pounds1 if we wish to salt at the rate of #c lbs4 #b ozs4 to the #a1jjj pounds of milk1 we look at the column indicating the quantity of salt for a given number of thousands1 and find that #d1jjj pounds of milk require #ab lbs4 #h ozs4 of salt4 ,referring to the other column1 we find #djj pounds of milk require #a lb4 #d ozs4 salt1 and #dj pounds1 #b ozs4 ,add these together1 and we have #ac lbs4 #ad ozs4 as the quantity of salt required for #d1fdj lbs4 of milk4 ,if desired1 a table can be made out1 with little trouble1 that will show the quantity of salt required for any given number of hundreds of pounds of milk likely to be contained in a single vat4 ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,tainted ,,milk4 ,the most abominable of all things in a cheese-factory is tainted milk4 ,it means floating curds1 huffy cheese1 bad flavor and poor prices4 ,yet1 as milk is now managed1 most factories will1 in hot weather1 get occasionally caught with a mess of tainted milk4 ,there are hard work1 anxiety and unsatisfactory results in it for the cheese-maker1 and dissatisfaction and small profits for the patron4 ,such things never ought to be2 but1 when such a catastrophe happens1 like other disagreeable things1 it has to be borne and the best made of it that circumstances will permit4 ,we know of no way to make good cheese out of tainted milk1 and have had comparatively little experience with it--though quite as much as we desire4 ,but from our own knowledge and what we can learn from the experience of others1 if we had a tainted mess of milk to work up1 we should heat it up as soon as possible1 cut the curd fine1 cook it thoroughly and develop the acid as much as we thought the curd would bear and stick together so as to bandage well4 ,if we had another batch1 in which the whey was all right1 we would draw off the whey from the tainted batch as early as possible and add whey from the sweet batch to the tainted curd1 to cook it in4 ,if not1 as soon as cooked1 we would draw off the whey and allow the acid to develop in the curd4 ,we presume sour whey added to the batch would be an advantage in developing the acid1 and acid is what seems to be needed to check the decomposition and further tainting of the curd4 ,an extra quantity of salt would doubtless be an advantage in stopping further taint4 ,the curd should be cooled to the temperature of the atmosphere1 and well aired before being put to press1 and the pressing should be thorough4 ,old cheese-makers have told us that they thought they found an advantage in washing and cooling a tainted curd with ice water--that is1 by chilling it4 ,it seems to us that1 though this might check taint for the time being1 it would hasten it when the cheese warmed up in curing1 as butter or meat will spoil rapidly after having come in contact with ice1 if exposed to the atmosphere4 ,prime cheese never can be made of bad milk4 ,but1 if milk is not too badly tainted1 a mess managed on the principles we have indicated will make a fair cheese--one that will suit many palates4 ,a curd made of sour milk may be improved by washing out some of the acid by the use of warm water4 ,with such a curd1 extra cooking is an important point2 but generally there is less cooking1 owing to the hurry to get the curd out of the sour whey4 ,it is in almost the opposite condition1 so far as acid is concerned1 of curd made from tainted milk4 ,the latter has too little acid2 the former too much4 ,we therefore want to develop the acid in a tainted curd1 and to retard or diminish it in a sour one4 ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,,curing4 ,there is no part of the process of making up milk and getting the product ready for market which requires more care and judgment1 as well as some hard work1 than curing4 ,few rooms are properly prepared for the purpose4 ,they are left too open and barn-like1 with no means of controlling the temperature4 ,factorymen generally seem to think that if the cheese is only made and put on the ranges1 there is little or no need of making any further provision4 ,we have seen cheese1 which we believe had deteriorated from one to two cents a pound in value1 because the curing process had not gone on properly4 ,the curing rooms were full of cracks which let in the wind1 cold or hot1 dry or damp1 as it might be1 and the cheese stood on the ranges in the cold1 damp atmosphere1 turning to swill--to hog feed1 instead of human food4 ,the faces were cracked2 the flavor was bad2 too much acid1 the buyers said2 the makers were perplexed1 and quite sure they had not changed their hands from what they were when they made a good reputation2 the patrons were dissatisfied1 and the committeemen grumbled4 ,there might have been other failings2 but we are quite sure that no one has a right to expect prime cheese where there are not the proper facilities for curing4 ,if the weather happens to be right1 a barn may answer the purpose4 ,but no one has a right to presume on always having favorable weather2 and it is the part of wisdom to make preparations for all sorts of contingencies4 ,a curing-room should be made with a wind-proof wall4 ,this would guard against sudden changes of weather1 by keeping out both heat and cold4 ,sufficient air can be introduced through the windows1 which should be made to open easily1 and be provided with blinds4 ,there should also be provision for supplying artificial heat1 equally distributed throughout the building1 and not from a red-hot stove set in the middle1 or in one end or corner1 where it will toast the cheeses near it1 and leave those farther off to chill in the cold weather of spring and fall4 ,if steam is used1 the heating apparatus may be made to do the double work of cooking the curd1 and warming the drying-room4 ,this may be done by means of hot-air tubes1 or by the use of steam-pipes running round the room4 ,of course it would cost a little at the beginning2 but a curing room once properly fitted up would soon pay the extra expense in the saving of time1 labor1 care1 vexation and money4 ,a thousand and one annoyances would be guarded against1 and the proprietor would have the satisfaction of knowing that he had got a good thing1 which would insure the most that could be expected from the product of the cheese-vat1 and build up a first-class reputation and a permanent business4 ,a curing-room should not only be kept at an equable temperature of #gj to #hj1 but be well ventilated4 ,the gases constantly emitted by the curing process should have a chance to freely escape and leave the atmosphere as pure and sweet as possible4 ,there is no more sense in supposing that a cheese can cure properly and have a clean1 wholesome flavor1 if kept in a close1 unventilated room1 than that a human being can retain his health in impure air4 ,the curing-room must be kept clean and sweet1 dry and airy--not by allowing the wind to whistle through it as it listeth1 but by a judicious system of heating and ventilating1 which will allow the hot and chill blasts to blow harmlessly by4 ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,,greasing ,,cheese4 ,when a cheese is first removed from the hoops1 care should be taken that its face be not allowed to dry and crack before it is greased with hot whey-butter4 ,nothing has been found so good as whey-butter for the purpose of greasing cheese1 and it should be applied hot1 and as soon after the cheese is set on the range as possible4 ,if it dries at all1 we think it injurious to the formation of a smooth1 glassy face2 and if it dries much1 the face is sure to check and present an unsatisfactory appearance1 besides furnishing convenient places for the cheese-fly to deposit its eggs4 ,a very convenient thing for applying the hot butter is a paint-brush4 ,it is much handier and better every way than a swab4 ,but care must be taken1 or the bristles of the brush will get scorched4 ,this can be avoided by removing the brush from the dish when through using it1 and not putting it in the grease again until you are ready to grease the faces of your cheeses4 ,a pressed iron dish with a handle riveted on1 is handy for melting the grease4 ,there is no danger of melting out the bottom1 or melting off the handle1 and you are less liable to burn yourself or spill your grease than you are if you melt the whey butter in an old basin1 which very soon gets burnt and leaky4 ,little conveniences1 like the iron dish and brush we have mentioned1 help a great deal1 in the course of a season1 about cheese-making2 and a cheese-maker had better furnish them at his own expense1 if his employers are too stingy to do it1 than not to have them4 ,there are many such little things that greatly assist in doing work easily and in keeping neat and tidy4 ,one can do without them1 on the principle that a farmer can hoe his corn without a cultivator1 but it does not pay4 ,if a cheese cannot be greased as soon as taken out1 spread a cloth or put a turner over it1 or both4 ,this will keep the moisture from escaping and the air from immediate contact with the face of the cheese4 ,as whey-butter is the best and nearly the only material used for greasing the faces of cheeses1 it will not be amiss and may be of use to inexperienced cheese-makers1 to say a few words on the mode of trying out the whey-butter4 ,prepare a skimmer with a long handle1 which may be cheaply made by punching the bottom of an old tin-pan full of holes and fastening a wooden handle to it with bits of wire4 ,a shrub five or six feet long and of suitable size1 with a short crook at the larger end1 is convenient4 ,it can be split at the crooked end1 slipped on the edge of the pan and wired there without much trouble4 ,hang a large kettle--a cauldron is best--in a convenient place1 and fill it about two-thirds fall of the grease and scum which you skim off from the vat4 ,it is yeasty stuff1 and requires a good deal of room1 at first1 to swell in when the heat is started4 ,keep up a moderate fire1 so as to boil it gently without scorching1 and continue the boiling until the cheesy portion is sufficiently cooked to sink to the bottom4 ,then allow the batch to rest and cool down4 ,dip off the butter1 while still warm and oily1 and carefully strain it into a clean tub4 ,when cooled sufficiently to begin to thicken somewhat1 a little salt sprinkled on the surface and thoroughly stirred in1 as the farmers' wives sometimes salt their lard1 will help prevent it from getting rancid and stinking4 ,set it in a cool place1 and keep it covered tightly4 ,near the close of the fall's operations1 a nice tub of whey butter should be thus prepared and set by for use the next spring--for1 in the cold spring weather1 when cheese-making first commences1 very little cream will rise on the whey-vat1 and it will take some time before a batch can be procured4 ,in applying the whey-butter to the face of the cheese1 no more should be used than the surface of the cheese will absorb and leave it moist and shiny4 ,if enough is put on so that it will cool in streaks and stick to whatever it touches1 it should be wiped off1 or it will daub the turner or bench1 and not only make unnecessary work in cleaning1 but prevent a hard1 smooth rind from forming4 ,many give themselves a good deal of annoyance by putting on too much grease4 ,the next morning after the cheese has been set on the range1 and had its upper face greased with hot whey-butter1 it should be turned over1 when a similar application of hot butter should be made to the other face4 ,if the cheese is well made and of good milk1 and properly greased1 as we have indicated1 more greasing will seldom be needed4 ,a little care will determine when more is needed1 if at all4 ,if the face begins to look dry and feel harsh1 in spite of thorough rubbing with the hands1 call the grease-brush into requisition again4 ,in hot1 dry weather--especially if the air is allowed to strike the face of the cheese--a timely application of more whey-butter may keep the face from cracking and save considerable trouble4 ,the cheeses should be regularly turned1 for the first fortnight1 every day1 and have their faces thoroughly rubbed and polished with the naked hand4 ,nothing else will do so much to help form a satisfactory rind4 ,a cloth carried along should be used to wipe off any surplus grease on the bench or turner1 so as to prevent its daubing the next cheese and making additional work4 ,this same cloth1 thus made greasy1 will answer the additional use of wiping off any mould that may be found collecting on the bandage4 ,in this way1 a lot of cheese1 with comparatively little additional work and trouble1 but a trifle more attention1 can be kept looking clean and wholesome2 and if this neatness does not actually help improve the quality of the cheese--we think it does--it will so much improve the appearance1 that you will not only be rewarded by the satisfaction afforded1 but can safely count on a fraction more from the buyer--enough to more than pay for all the labor bestowed in curing4 ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,,skippers4 ,one of the most annoying things in the drying-room is the cheese-fly4 ,it is very small but very effective in its way2 and as it has the power to so rapidly increase its numbers1 it sometimes gives a good deal of trouble4 ,to a beginner1 its ways seem almost past finding out1 yet its path often becomes disgustingly visible4 ,we know of no sovereign remedy for these pests of the drying-room4 ,the best preventive is perfect cleanliness in all the surroundings4 ,no pools of whey or slops of any kind in1 under or around the building1 should be allowed to furnish the first broods4 ,but few factories are so arranged as to leave no putrid whey-spouts or other receptacles for the eggs of the fly4 ,when hot weather comes on1 the flies1 therefore1 swarm all around the building2 and most curing-rooms are so open as to afford them easy access4 ,once in the room1 the trouble and warfare begin1 and cease not until the dog-star no longer rages4 ,the cheese-fly is not very particular where it deposits its eggs--whether in the cracks in the benches or turners1 in wrinkles in the bandage1 in the checks in the rind of the cheese1 or on the smooth face4 ,if the weather is warm enough and there is the least bit of moisture1 the eggs will hatch anywhere around the cheese4 ,as soon as hatched1 instinct leads the skipper to burrow in the cheese at once4 ,it is a mistaken idea1 we think1 that the fly inserts the eggs4 ,it drops them in clusters1 wherever it is convenient4 ,it may be on a turner1 which is standing idle4 ,it is taken up thoughtlessly1 clapped over a cheese1 which is turned on it1 nicely covering the eggs1 which hatch between it and the rind1 and the brood is soon found thriving nicely in the cheese4 ,perhaps the eggs are laid on the smooth face of the cheese1 in plain sight1 if one looks carefully enough for them4 ,the next time the cheese is turned1 the eggs are in the same situation as those laid on the turner4 ,they may be laid on the bench1 and the cheese set on them4 ,a careful hand1 who is used to hunting eggs as well as skippers1 will look closely for them everywhere1 and be sure that the face of no cheese that has them on is turned down1 and that no turner is used containing them4 ,in all these cases1 care and neatness have their advantages1 and pay4 ,if a cheese is leaky1 look out for it4 ,we have seen the eggs of the cheese-fly deposited on the best cheeses2 but sour1 stinking1 leaky cheeses attract them most4 ,here they are in their natural element4 ,the eggs dropped on the moist cheese anywhere1 even on the bandage1 will do remarkably well4 ,they no sooner hatch1 than the tiny worm works its way through the bandage or rind into the cheese1 and there he feasts1 fattens and grows4 ,it is almost traditional that a skippery cheese is invariably a good one4 ,we admit that good cheese may be skippery--it is so1 sometimes2 but the leaky1 greasy1 rank smelling and strong-tasting cheese1 is the skipper's delight4 ,in such a cheese1 he luxuriates in all his disgusting glory4 ,when skippers get into a cheese1 we know of no better way than to dig or cut them out as soon as possible4 ,their presence is at once indicated by a moist spot1 when the bottom face of the cheese is first turned up4 ,greasing a piece of paper over the hole in the cheese1 which is the entrance of the skipper1 will bring him to the surface after air1 but it does not kill him nor free the cheese from skippers4 ,we say1 cut them out4 ,cut freely1 and make sure work4 ,if the spot is near the edge1 a wedge-shaped piece may be cut out1 and a piece of another cheese--there is usually one cut for patrons of a factory--can be fitted in1 a second bandage drawn over1 and the cheese slipped into a hoop1 when a little pressing will smooth down all roughness and heal all scars4 ,some put cayenne pepper in whey-butter used for greasing cheeses4 ,but1 though it may help keep flies off1 it will not prevent trouble4 ,they will work their way wherever there is a chance for them4 ,dryness1 cleanliness and watchful care1 are the only sure preventives of skippers1 in hot weather4 ,to one who has had experience1 it is not so very difficult to guard against serious loss from skippery cheese4 ,but beginners need to be put on their guard--and for their benefit we have penned this article on skippers4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,,cheddar ,,process4 ,during the summer of #ahfi1 we had the pleasure of visiting the ,spring ,creek and ,slate ,hill factories1 in ,montgomery county1 under the charge of ,mr4 ,,alexander ,,macadam4 ,mr4 ,,macadam',s father is an old cheese-maker1 who learned the ,cheddar process from the celebrated ,english dairyman1 ,mr4 ,,joseph ,,harding1 of ,somerset1 about #ahee4 ,the son has had all the advantages of the father's experience1 and1 in addition to an active1 inquiring and practical turn of mind1 has had experience in one of the heaviest cheese houses in ,london4 ,if any one knows what good cheese is1 and what is required by the ,english taste1 as well as by the ,american market1 we think ,mr4 ,,alexander ,,macadam does4 ,he is1 besides1 intelligent1 free and communicative--ready to impart any information within his knowledge4 ,we propose to give as intelligible an account of his process as we were able to pick up in our brief visit4 ,but1 as he adopts in part the ,american method1 and humors considerably ,american ideas1 we will first give a brief description of the real ,cheddar process1 as explained in a pamphlet written by ,mr4 ,,robert ,,macadam1 of ,gorsty ,hill ,dairy1 ,crewe1 who is the father of our host3 ,in describing the process of cheese-making1 it is necessary to keep in view some definite size of dairy2 and for this reason1 we will allude in the present section to one making cheese from the milk of #fj cows4 ,as detailed in the paragraph on the morning's operations1 the evening's milk having cooled down to #fb1 is lifted and sieved into the cheese tub1 and the morning's milk added to it1 as it comes from the cow-house4 ,if the temperature of the milk1 when thus mixed1 be under #gh1 it must be raised to that degree of warmth1 as from #gh to #hj is the best temperature at which milk can be set for coagulation4 ,this may be effected either by warming a portion of the milk among hot water to any temperature not above #aej1 or1 when the cheese-tub is double-bottomed1 by introducing a jet of steam1 or allowing the hot water to circulate4 ,the quantity of milk in the cheese-tub being one hundred and sixty-five gallons1 the requisite quantity of annotto is now added1 and carefully mixed1 to produce a rich straw or cowslip color4 ,five quarts of sour whey being added1 and a quantity of rennet sufficient to coagulate the mass of milk in sixty minutes1 the whole is gently stirred and completely mixed1 covered over with a clean cloth1 and allowed to stand for coagulation4 ,after the milk has stood for fifteen minutes1 the top or surface should be gently stirred1 to prevent the cream from ascending1 and this must be repeated if the curd is long in beginning to form4 ,hence it is preferable that the coagulation should be completed in from fifty to sixty minutes1 as otherwise a waste of richness is likely to ensue4 ,when the cream shows a decided tendency to rise to the surface1 it is advisable to skim it off1 previous to lifting the evening's milk1 and warm it to a temperature of #ie1 as this prevents it from ascending1 and causes it to amalgamate more completely with the mass of milk set for coagulation4 ,in stirring the milk to prevent the cream from ascending1 the strictest attention should be observed to abstain from doing so if the slightest degree of coagulation is perceived4 ,as soon as the curd has acquired a moderate degree of firmness1 the operation of breaking-up should be at once commenced1 and must be performed carefully1 gently and minutely4 ,this may be accomplished by one person in about thirty minutes1 when the revolving knife breaker is employed1 or by two persons in about the same time1 when the shovel or wire-breakers are used4 ,before this operation is finished1 a quantity of whey must be taken from the cheese-tub1 heated to #aej1 and again poured upon the mass1 stirring being actively kept up beneath the stream1 to prevent any portion of the curd from being scalded4 ,the quantity thus heated must be sufficient to raise the temperature of the contents of the cheese-tub to #hj1 and the whole must be carefully and completely mixed4 ,the addition of warm whey raises the temperature1 and consequently hastens the separation of the whey from the curd1 and assists in promoting the necessary acidity4 ,if1 however1 the presence of acidity can be detected by the smell or taste1 no warm whey should be used at this stage of the process4 ,the curd being broken to a sufficient degree of fineness1 it is allowed to remain undisturbed for one hour1 except when the acid exists in too great a degree1 in which case it should only stand during the time occupied by warming the whey for scalding4 ,the whey-separator is then inserted1 and the liquid allowed to run off until the surface of the curd appears among the whey1 after which the separator is taken out1 and the curd properly broken up with the shovel-breaker4 ,but before breaking up the curd1 a quantity of whey should be heated to #aej1 for the purpose of scalding it4 ,one person pours a portion of this hot whey over the curd1 while another stirs actively beneath the stream with a shovel-breaker4 ,the hot whey is poured cautiously over the mass at intervals1 and the stirring is kept up gently but briskly1 until the temperature is raised gradually to #ih or #ajj ,fah4 ,the stirring is continued1 and the temperature maintained1 until the curd acquires a certain degree of firmness and consistency1 which it is difficult to describe1 but which the intelligent cheese-maker soon learns to recognize by its appearance1 and by its peculiarly elastic feel when handled4 ,it is therefore of the utmost importance to possess the discrimination and tact necessary for discerning when the proper degree of firmness and consistency has been attained4 ,when the curd is sufficiently cooked1 it is in small granular particles1 firm and elastic to the touch1 and when a portion is taken in the hand and squeezed1 it does not readily adhere1 but separates into particles4 ,the stirring must be continued till this peculiar consistency is attained1 without any regard to the length of time1 but should on no account be farther prolonged1 because the cheese will then have a tendency to be hard and stiff1 and will require a longer time to mature in the cheese-room4 ,the length of time required for stirring varies according to the previous condition of the milk1 being from twenty to thirty minutes when the acid exists in a sufficient degree1 or even double that time when the natural process of change in the milk has been slow4 ,this process of saturating the curd with heated whey has the effect of completely separating the solid and fluid parts1 the only moisture left being that which adheres to the particles1 and which comes away under pressure4 ,but when the temperature is raised in this manner1 or by heat from the bottom of the cheese-tub1 the utmost care is necessary to keep the curd from being over-scalded1 as1 when the temperature is too suddenly raised1 part of buttraceous matter may be lost1 and the small pulpy particles get skinned over1 inclosing a quantity of the whey1 which it is extremely difficult again to separate4 ,if the milk has been in proper condition to begin with1 and the process carried on in the manner thus detailed1 the curd will retain all the natural richness of the milk1 and the cheese produced will have that rich creamy taste and sweet milky flavor1 something like the odor of new milk1 known as the ,cheddar flavor4 ,when the curd is raised 7in the manner described above7 to the natural heat of the milk 7#ih17 or only one or two degrees above it1 all the butter is retained and fixed in the curd2 for although subjected even at first to a pressure of half a ton1 little or no trace of butter will appear4 ,this is unquestionably a more rational and far superior method of separating the whey from the curd than that of heating beside a fire or in a furnace1 with its attendant skewerings and changings4 ,the next step in the continuation of the process is to insert the separator1 after the curd has been allowed to remain undisturbed in the scald for the space of thirty minutes4 ,after the whey is run off1 the curd is thrown up into a heap in the center of the cheese-tub1 covered over with a clean cheese-cloth1 and the whey allowed to drain away from it for another half-hour4 ,at the end of that time the curd is cut across1 turned over in square lumps1 heaped up1 covered as before1 and then allowed to lie for half an hour longer4 ,the curd is then taken from the cheese-tub1 laid upon a cooler1 split by the hand into thin flakes1 and spread out to cool4 ,the curd at this stage has a distinctly acid smell2 it is slightly sour1 and by no means palatable2 and its taste and appearance are such as would lead a novice to think it unlikely to produce a fine cheese4 ,when the curd has been exposed on the cooler for fifteen minutes1 it is turned over1 and allowed to lie for the same length of time4 ,it is then packed into a cheese-vat1 having a clean cloth under it1 placed under the press for the space of ten minutes1 and subjected to a pressure of half a ton4 ,when taken out1 it is ground in the mill1 weighed1 and returned to the cooler1 and if the acid is sufficiently developed1 it should be at once salted1 cooled down to about #fe1 and placed under pressure4 ,the purest refined salt should be used1 and should be weighed and carefully mixed with the mass1 one pound of salt being sufficient for fifty-six pounds of curd4 ,when the acid is found to be insufficiently developed in the previous stages of the process1 the curd is allowed to lie unsalted1 and is stirred up occasionally1 until the necessary degree of acidity is acquired4 ,the curd is then finally put into the cheese-vat1 and at once put under pressure1 at first under a weight of five or six cwt4 ,the cheese is taken out of the press in the evening1 and a clean cloth put upon it1 and being turned in the vat1 is subjected to a pressure of half a ton4 ,next morning1 it is again taken out1 wrapped in a dry cloth1 reversed in the vat1 and returned into the press with four cwt4 additional pressure placed upon it4 ,on the following morning it receives its third and last cloth1 and when placed in the press1 is now subjected to the pressure of #ah cwt4 ,in the evening1 it is once more removed from the press1 gets a calico cap neatly stitched upon it1 is reversed in the vat1 placed under a pressure of one ton till the following morning1 and is then finally taken from the press4 ,the cheese is then tightly bandaged to preserve its proper shape1 and being ticketed with its date and number1 is carried to the cheese-room1 where it must be turned every day until fully ripe for market4 ,cheeses may always be in the store-room in seventy-two hours after they are first put into the press1 and1 indeed1 they might be placed there much earlier2 only to insure consolidation1 it is preferable to maintain the pressure during the time specified4 ,a diary or register should be kept1 into which the date and number of each cheese should be formally entered1 together with such remarks as may be needful and proper concerning the condition of the milk1 and the peculiarities of the curd1 c4 ,the cheese-maker1 when testing the quality of any cheese after it is ripe1 may learn from the register the precise conditions of its manufacture1 and will thus be assisted in attaining that degree of excellence which was laid down in the beginning of this work as a proper standard or quality4,a ,it will also be found highly useful to note down many similar facts1 such as the various yields of milk at particular seasons1 and from different kinds of pasture or house-feeding1 as the practice will not only give wide views of the subject1 and correct information regarding it1 but will also tend greatly to foster accurate and business-like habits4 ,it is necessary to state distinctly the mode of procedure best adapted for this contingency because the over-acidity of milk when not detected and duly attended to in the process1 produces a corresponding blemish in the cheese4 ,in very warm weather1 when the temperature of the evening's milk stands in the morning as high as #gj or upwards1 every part of the process described in the previous section must be hastened4 ,the curd is broken more speedily than usual1 and whey is taken off as soon as possible1 and quickly warmed for scalding4 ,when the operation of breaking is concluded1 an interval of only five minutes is allowed before the whey is run off4 ,scalding is then proceeded with1 but1 under these circumstances1 the curd and whey should only be raised to the temperature of #ih4 ,when the proper degree of firmness has been attained by stirring1 the rest of the whey is run off after another interval of five minutes1 and when the curd is heaped up1 ten minutes only are allowed to elapse before it is cut across and turned over4 ,at the end of other ten minutes1 it is laid upon the cooler1 in five minutes more it is turned over1 and at the end of other five it is put into the vat and under the press4 ,having been subjected to pressure for five minutes1 the curd is taken out1 ground in the mill1 put back into the cooler1 and salted4 ,it is then stirred up to cool1 until the temperature of the mass is reduced to #fe1 when it is placed in the vat1 and subjected to the ordinary routine of pressure4 ,it may be stated1 in illustration of the time occupied by these operations1 that if the curd be ready for breaking at eight o'clock1 it may be milled and salted by eleven4 ,by expeditiously conducting every stage of the process1 excellent cheeses may be produced1 even at the above temperature2 but when the ordinary time is allowed to elapse before the curd is cooked and salted1 the cheeses will likely be sour4 ,these rules and statements are based on the safe ground of personal experience1 for in a very warm season we have made upwards of forty tons of cheese without one being sour4 ,in these days of dispatch and outward display1 when men seek so eagerly for the shortest and easiest ways of doing things1 some will doubtless be found to carp at the minuteness and extent of the foregoing details1 and at the repeated injunction to strive after a clear and intelligent conception of the principles on which this branch of industry is founded4 ,and many more1 whose past experience has been little else than a slothful compliance with false rules and prejudices1 may1 perhaps1 censure the system as too abstruse and complicated4 ,but all such objections are refuted by the simple fact that no common product1 made from raw material universally the same1 varies more in quality and value than cheese1 from the one cause of difference in the skill with which it is made4 ,to attain to excellence in cheese-making1 it is absolutely necessary that the hand and the head should work together4 ,the ,cheddar process1 as carried on at ,spring ,creek factory1 is an adaptation of the foregoing to ,american apparatus and implements1 with other variations4 ,the milk is set in the usual manner1 and at the usual temperature--say1 #hb to #hd4 ,it is cut in the usual manner1 and gradually heated up to #ih4 ,then the whole is allowed to stand1 with occasional stirring1 until the whey is perceptibly acid4 ,the day we were there1 we found the curd in the whey1 and as much changed as is generally considered by ,americans sufficient for dipping and salting4 ,but as soon as a slight change is perceptible--indeed1 as soon as any one of the hands fancies it is changed--the whey is drawn off4 ,if the whey should still be sweet and the curd soft1 there is no harm in drawing off the whey4 ,then one end of the vat is raised1 the curd is poked away from the lower end1 and the whey is allowed to drain out4 ,if the curd is quite soft1 the further separation of the whey is facilitated by cross-cuttings with a large butcher or groceryman's cheese-knife4 ,if it is well cooked1 this is not necessary4 ,at the expiration of half an hour or so--provided the whey is not rapidly taking on acid1 in which case1 at the expiration of five1 ten1 or fifteen minutes1 according to condition--the curd is cut into pieces six or eight inches square1 with the knife just mentioned2 these pieces are split laterally through the middle with the knife2 the top and bottom surfaces are put together1 and the whole piled up along the sides of the vat4 ,the object of this operation is to get the cool surfaces into the middle1 to be influenced by the heat1 and to give the already heated center contact with the atmosphere4 ,in a little while1 the bottom pieces are piled on top4 ,the cutting and splitting operation may be repeated at intervals of twenty or thirty minutes until the whey that runs from the curd has much the taste of sour milk just before it begins to lopper4 ,the whey looks white and rich1 and is really so2 but it is claimed1 that there is not as much waste as is caused by keeping the curd in the whey and stirring it1 when the butter and cheese that escape are so diluted as not to be noticed4 ,when the whey draining from the curd has a decided sour-milk taste1 the accumulation is removed1 the curd mill is set on the end of the vat1 and the large square pieces of curd thrown into the hopper and run through4 ,the mill tears them into pieces varying in size from that of a kernel of corn to a butternut4 ,when ground1 two pounds and an eighth of salt are sprinkled over the curd and stirred in4 7,considering the dry state of curd1 this is really heavy salting--heavier than three pounds thrown on the dripping curd1 in the usual manner47 ,the salting done1 the curd is allowed to stand1 with occasional stirring1 as long as convenient--indeed1 the longer the better4 ,it will take no harm after being salted2 and if a curd is at all tainted1 or is made of sour-milk1 and is rather soft1 it should be allowed to stand as long as possible1 and permit the hands to get it to press and ready to bandage the same afternoon or evening4 ,this is the simple process1 as we saw it at ,spring ,creek factory4 ,the pressing and curing are not essentially different from the common methods4 ,thorough pressing1 however1 is considered essential2 and so is an equable temperature in the drying room--which1 by the way1 ,mr4 ,,macadam did not have the advantage of1 as the building was erected on economical principles1 with a very primitive but thorough system of ventilation--not under his direction or supervision1 however4 ,with sour-milk1 ,mr4 ,,macadam hastens every stage of the process1 up to the time of salting4 ,when the requisite degree of acid is developed1 even though the heat may not have gone above #ij1 and the curd is very soft1 the whey is drawn off1 and the curd repeatedly cut into small squares with a knife1 to facilitate the separation of the whey4 ,the curd is ground1 and the salt thrown on--in less quantity--when the whey that drains off has the proper sour milk taste4 ,it is then allowed to stand in the vat1 and drain and harden1 as long as the work of the factory will permit4 ,if it can remain a couple of days in the press1 it is an advantage4 ,the curds prepared in the manner we have been describing for good milk1 does not have a very promising look to an ,american cheese-maker4 ,it is tough and stringy1 and quite elastic4 ,at least1 such was the appearance of the curd which we saw4 ,it is proper to state1 however1 that it was made of tainted milk1 and the taint was quite marked in the curd4 ,this1 ,mr4 ,,macadam told us1 was the condition of most of the milk and curds for some weeks past in that factory2 yet1 the taint did not show in the cheese on the ranges1 except in a few instances where the curd had been salted a little too sweet1 as he thought4 ,the great secret of his success1 he seemed to think1 was in getting rid of the whey early1 in allowing a good deal of acid to develop1 especially in tainted curds1 in airing the curds and allowing the gases to escape1 and in salting well4 ,mr4 ,,macadam',s cheese1 as a general thing1 tried splendidly4 ,it was firm1 flaky1 buttery and fine-flavored4 ,his opinion is1 that ,american cheese is1 as a general rule1 salted too sweet and too low1 for the purpose of having it cure quick for market2 but it lacks good keeping qualities1 and verifies the old adage1 ,soon ripe1 soon rotten4 ,it is hard to overcome this desire for quick returns2 but he would recommend those who wish to improve ,american cheese1 to sour rather more1 salt a little more1 and color a little less--as little as the market will allow--as coloring is believed to be positively injurious to quality4 ,the tendency should be in these directions1 in order to make a slower curing1 better keeping and better flavored article4 ,but1 it must be borne in mind1 that ,mr4 ,,macadam has in view his own process of manufacture1 and that allowances must be made for different modes4 ,let each be ready to receive hints1 make his own experiments1 and abide by his own decisions4 ,,footnote3 ,a ,a good cheese is rich1 without being greasy1 with a sweet1 nutty flavor2 clear1 equal color throughout2 of a compact1 solid texture1 without being waxy2 firm1 yet melting easily in the mouth1 and leaving no rough flavor on the palate4 ,,advertisements ,utica ,morning ,herald ,,book ,,and ,,job ,,printing ,,establishment1 ,no4 #fj ,genesee ,st41 ,utica1 ,n4 ,y41 ,possesses ,,extensive ,,modern ,,facilities for all kinds of ,,letter ,,press ,,printing1 ,and increased attention will be paid to this department1 under the direction of ,r4 ,w4 ,,roberts4 ,,new ,,styles ,,of ,,type1 ,,borders1 ,c41 are provided as they appear in the ,eastern cities1 and the ,long ,established ,reputation of the office will be maintained1 for ,,the ,,best ,,work ,,at ,,the ,,lowest ,,prices4 ,,manufacturers1 ,,lawyers1 ,,and ,,business ,,men1 ,will have their orders carefully and intelligently filled4 ,,ellis ,h4 ,,roberts1 ,proprietor4 ,utica ,morning ,herald ,,and ,,daily ,,gazette1 ,,nine ,,dollars ,a ,,year ,,in ,,advance1 contains more reading matter than any other daily published in ,central ,new ,york1 including the ,fullest and ,latest ,,telegraphic ,,reports1 ,,correspondence ,from the ,state and ,national ,capitals1 and elsewhere1 while especial attention is bestowed on ,,local ,,and ,,general ,,news1 and a high ,literary ,standard is aimed at4 ,an ,,agricultural ,,department is well maintained especially designed for the ,dairymen and ,farmers of the ,central and ,northern ,counties4 ,the ,,utica ,,herald has by far the largest circulation in the ,city1 and its ,,aggregate ,,circulation ,,is ,,over #ab1jjj4 ,,advertise ,,in ,,it4 ,,the ,,dairymen',s ,,paper6 ,,the ,,utica ,,weekly ,,herald has1 since the first organization of the ,dairymen's ,association1 reported promptly and fully all of its proceedings and never more fully and satisfactorily than the addresses and debates before the ,convention held in ,utica in ,january1 #ahgj4 ,the ,,utica ,,herald also devotes especial attention to everything connected with the dairy interest2 to ,diseases of ,cattle and their ,cure2 ,the ,manufacture of ,butter and ,cheese1 and to all ,improved ,processes and ,apparatus4 ,the weekly edition every ,tuesday contains the report of the ,,little ,,falls ,,market ,,of ,,the ,,previous ,,day4 ,the ,,utica ,,herald has made the dairy interest a specialty1 and in its weekly edition devotes to it ,more ,space and ,attention than any other ,paper in the ,country4 ,at the same time1 the ,,utica ,,weekly ,,herald aims to be in all respects a ,,first-,,class ,,family ,,paper4 ,its ,editorial ,articles are accepted and recognized as fitly speaking the ,union sentiment1 the intelligent convictions1 and the thoughtful aspirations of the million of people which it represents4 ,the ,,utica ,,herald1 in its weekly as well as its morning edition1 is pre-eminently ,a ,,newspaper4 ,by thorough classification and elaborate condensation it presents the gist of all the news in the briefest space1 and the person who reads no other journal1 will not be ignorant of the current of events1 and the movement of men and principles4 ,,the ,,correspondence weekly published in our columns1 from ,washington1 ,new ,york1 ,albany and elsewhere1 is not inferior in literary or political interest to that of any other journal in the country4 ,,the ,,literary ,,department will receive during the coming year1 increased attention1 and we trust will deserve in even a higher degree than heretofore the encomiums which have been bestowed upon it4 ,,advertise ,,in ,,it4 ,manufacturers and merchants wishing to reach dairymen and producers of butter and cheese1 can do so in no other way so readily and so cheaply1 as through the columns of the ,,utica ,,weekly ,,herald4 ,,the ,,terms4 ,the ,,utica ,,weekly ,,herald is published at the low price of ,,two ,,dollars ,a ,,year4 ,payment is required in advance4 ,taking into account the size and character of the paper--its political1 news1 literary and agricultural merits--it is believed that this is ,,the ,,cheapest ,,paper ,,published4 ,now is the time to form clubs4 ,let the circulation be doubled during the current year4 ,address1 ,,utica ,,herald1 #fj ,genesee ,street1 ,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,book ,,binding6 ,,the ,,old ,,established ,,book ,,bindery1 ,no4 #fj ,,genesee ,,st41 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y41 7,morning ,herald ,block17 ,has all the facilities for ,,binding ,,books1 new and old1 in as good style1 and at as low prices as can be obtained anywhere in ,new ,york or elsewhere4 ,many families may gather a respectable library by gathering up their ,magazines1 ,newspapers1 and other ,serials1 ,and we are prepared to bind in any desirable style ,,atlantic ,,magazine1 ,,harper',s ,,magazine1 ,,knickerbocker ,,magazine1 ,,graham',s ,,magazine1 ,,peterson',s ,,magazine1 ,,home ,,magazine1 ,,leslie',s ,,magazine1 ,,ballou',s ,,magazine1 ,,lady',s ,,book1 ,,music1 ,,library ,,books1 ,,law ,,books1 ,,leslie',s ,,pictorial1 ,,harper',s ,,pictorial1 ,,ballou',s ,,pictorial1 ,,illustrated ,,london ,,news1 ,,spencer',s ,,history ,,of ,,united ,,states1 ,,tallis',s ,,shakespeare1 ,,johnson',s ,,shakespeare1 ,,boydell',s ,,shakespeare1 ,,irving',s ,,washington1 ,,lossing',s ,,washington1 ,,scripture ,,history1 ,,life ,,of ,,christ1 ,,harper',s ,,bible1 ,,brown',s ,,bible1 ,,fletcher',s ,,bible1 ,,virtue',s ,,bible1 ,,douay ,,bible1 ,,encyclopedia ,,of ,,arts ,,and ,,sciences1 ,,scientific ,,american1 ,,hinton',s ,,history ,,of ,,united ,,states1 ,and all newspapers1 whether great or small1 as well as collections of ,pamphlets1 ,manuscripts1 or whatever else is worthy of preservation4 ,books will be bound in any style to suit the taste of our customers in ,full ,turkey ,gilt1 ,full ,calf1 ,antique ,finished1 ,half ,calf1 or ,half ,turkey1 or in ,full ,sheep1 ,full or ,half ,cloth1 with ,edges ,gilt1 ,marbled1 or ,sprinkled1 as may be desired4 ,books sent by express or otherwise1 will receive prompt attention4 ,good ,workmanship and ,reasonable ,prices warranted4 ,the ,largest ,fancy ,goods ,house ,,in ,,central ,,new ,,york1 ,w4 ,m4 ,,storrs1 #ga ,genesee ,street1 ,utica1 --,,dealer ,,in-- ,,foreign ,,domestic ,,fancy ,,goods1 ,shot ,guns1 ,rifles1 ,revolvers1 ,cartridges1 ,ammunition1 ,fishing ,tackle and ,sporting ,apparatus of every ,description4 ,wooden ,willow ,ware1 ,,house-,,keeping ,,goods1 ,farm ,baskets1 ,pails1 ,churns1 c41 c4 ,,call ,,and ,,see ,,my ,,immense ,,stock4 ,w4 ,m4 ,,storrs1 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,ready-,,made ,,clothing6 ,every farmer in this and adjoining counties will find it to his advantage to purchase his ,clothing of ,c4 ,a4 ,,yates ,,co41 ,,at ,,the ,,marble ,,block ,,clothing ,,store4 ,we pay particular attention to the quality of the ,cloth1 have every garment substantially made1 and guarantee durability4 ,we also keep the ,,largest ,,stock ,,of ,,clothing in this section of the country1 and can therefore give the advantage of an immense variety4 ,our prices will at all times be the lowest in the market1 and goods will be freely shown1 whether for the purpose of buying at the time or at some future time4 ,we therefore invite all to call and see our store and stock1 and to learn our prices4 ,particular attention paid to ,youth's and ,boys' ,clothing4 ,the most extensive assortment in the county can be found at our store4 ,when in search of ,clothing1 ,look for the ,marble ,block1 ,no4 #ed ,genesee ,st41 ,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,c4 ,a4 ,,yates ,,co4 ,,american ,,button ,,hole1 ,,overseaming ,,and ,,sewing ,,machine4 ,the cheapest as well as the best1 since it combines a ,button ,hole1 ,overseaming and ,sewing ,machine1 in one simple form1 making either the ,lock ,stitch or ,button ,hole ,stitch1 as occasion may require2 doing every variety of sewing in a ,,superior ,,manner1 and in addition works a most perfect ,button ,hole and ,overseams nicely4 ,received a ,first ,premium at the ,new ,york ,state ,fair1 and numerous other ,fairs throughout the ,united ,states and ,canada4 ,illustration3 ,,lamb ,,knitting ,,machine ,knits ,hosiery of all sizes4 ,sets up its own work4 ,knits the ,heel and narrows off the ,toe1 and knits a pair of socks in thirty minutes4 ,the only ,knitting ,machine in the world that can shape a stocking the same as can be done when knit by hand4 ,will make four distinct webs1 thus enabling the operator to do a great variety of ,,fancy ,,work4 ,for samples of work1 and circulars of both ,sewing ,machine and ,knitting ,machine1 address1 ,h4 ,j4 ,,hilliard1 7,,butterfield ,,house47 #bje ,genesee ,st41 ,utica4 ,,howes ,,clark1 ,real ,estate ,brokers1 #agh ,,genesee ,,street1 ,z4 ,m4 ,,howes1 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,b4 ,a4 ,,clark4 ,agents for ,sale1 ,purchase1 ,leasing1 ,care1 and ,management of ,real ,estate4 ,mortgages ,negotiated and ,investments ,made4 ,,fire1 ,,life ,,and ,,accidental ,,insurance ,,in ,,first ,,class ,,companies4 ,deeds1 ,mortgages and ,leases ,drawn and ,executed4 ,the ,best ,dairy ,paper6 ,at a recent meeting of the ,farmers' ,club1 of the ,american ,institute1 in ,new ,york ,city1 a correspondent asked for ,the ,best ,paper ,,in ,,this ,,country ,,devoted ,,to ,,the ,,dairy ,,interest8 ,mr4 ,f4 ,d4 ,,curtis1 ,vice ,president of the ,,state ,,agricultural ,,society1 answered1 and it went on record as the ,,sentiment ,,of ,,the ,,club3 ,,the ,,utica ,,herald4 ,,the ,,utica ,,weekly ,,herald ,,is ,,only ,,two ,,dollars ,a ,,year1 ,,in ,,advance4 ,illustration3 ,,wood ,,mann ,,steam ,,engine ,,co41 ,,portable ,,steam ,,engines1 ,from #d to #bj ,horse ,power4 ,,stationary ,,engines1 ,from #d to #ejj ,horse ,power4 ,,boilers ,,of ,,all ,,kinds1 ,,circular ,,saw ,,mills1 ,c4 ,boilers ,especially ,adapted to ,cheese ,factories ,on ,hand or ,furnished on ,short ,notice4 ,having one of the ,oldest1 ,largest and ,most ,complete ,works in the ,united ,states1 especially adapted to the manufacture of ,engines1 ,boilers1 ,saw ,mills1 c41 we are able to furnish them1 built of the very best materials1 and at the lowest prices at which work in any way equal1 can be obtained4 ,prices furnished on application4 ,wood ,mann ,steam ,engine ,co41 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,william ,,ralph ,,co41 #agc #age ,genesee ,st41 ,,wm4 ,,ralph1 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,john ,,carton4 ,,manufacturers ,,of ,,and ,,dealers ,,in ,,cheese-,,factory ,,and ,,farm ,dairy ,apparatus1 ,,tools1 ,,implements ,,and ,,furnishing ,,goods1 ,,such ,,as ,,cheese ,,vats ,,for ,,factories1 ,,cheese ,,vats ,,for ,,dairies1 ,,factory ,,warming ,,and ,,ventilating ,,apparatus1 ,,water-,,heaters1 ,,weighing ,,cans1 ,,carrying ,,cans1 ,,cheese ,,presses1 ,,press ,,screws1 ,,wood ,,press ,,hoops1 ,,metallic ,,press ,,hoops1 ,,milk ,,agitators1 ,,american ,,curd ,,mill1 ,,curd ,,agitators1 ,,lactometers1 ,,milk ,,test ,,glasses1 ,,cream ,,gauges1 ,,thermometers1 ,,steel ,,curd ,,knives1 ,,draining ,,sinks1 ,,milk ,,conductors1 ,,platform ,,scales1 ,,improved ,,tin ,,milk ,,pails1 ,,dairy ,,pails1 ,,dairy ,,dippers1 ,,curd ,,scoops1 ,,whey ,,strainers1 ,,rennet ,,jars1 ,,patent ,,milk ,,can ,,handles1 ,,stencil ,,plates1 ,,factory ,,milk ,,books1 ,,annotta1 ,,scale ,,boards1 ,,cheese ,,bandage1 ,,rennets1 ,,milk1 ,,water ,,and ,,whey ,,faucets1 ,,sink ,,castors1 ,,cheese ,,hoops1 ,,handles1 c41 c4 ,all articles in our line are of the best kinds and most approved patterns1 and our prices as low as first class goods can be furnished4 ,plans1 ,estimates1 c41 for ,cheese-,factories and ,dairies1 together with other information pertaining thereto1 will be cheerfully furnished to parties interested1 on application4 ,,ralph',s ,,oneida ,,cheese ,,vats ,for ,cheese ,factories ,farm ,dairies4 ,,adapted ,,to ,,all ,,classes1 ,,however ,,large ,,or ,,small4 7,see cut of #fjj gallon1 factory size1 on cover47 ,this ,cheese ,vat is constantly growing in favor as its merits become known2 it is now used in about #ejj ,cheese ,factories and #adjj ,dairies4 ,from its construction and principle of operation--differing essentially from all others1--a larger amount of cheese from a given amount of milk can be made with it1 with a much less consumption of fuel and labor4 ,by it the heat is perfectly controllable1 and distributed absolutely equal in every part1 except that there is a slightly less amount at the bottom of the ,milk ,vat2 this is effected by the ,,equalizer--which is not used in any other apparatus1--and is an advantage duly appreciated by all good cheese-makers4 ,these ,vats are complete and ready for use on attaching smoke pipe1 involving the use of no steam-boiler or pipes1 brick arches or other expensive appertenance2 are quite simple in arrangement1 strong and durable in construction4 ,send for ,descriptive ,circular and ,price ,list4 ,,wm4 ,,ralph ,,co41 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,cheese ,,factory ,,warming ,,ventilating ,,apparatus4 ,,we ,,would ,,invite ,,attention ,,to ,,this ,,article3 ,it is admirably adapted to securing a proper condition of the atmosphere in the curing-room to facilitate the curing of the cheese1 particularly in cool and damp weather1 in spring and fall1 giving ,a ,soft ,genial ,temperature ,throughout the ,building1 favorable to a rapid and proper ripening of the cheese2 there being no more heat near the heater than in remote parts of the room4 ,by a suitable inlet and ventiducts1 air from the outside may be conducted to the heater and from thence distributed to all parts of the curing-room1 expelling the old and perhaps tainted air from the building4 ,for further information address1 ,,wm4 ,,ralph ,,co41 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,jones ,,faulkner',s ,dairy ,furnishing ,store1 ,no4 #ada ,,genesee ,,street1 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,we beg leave to call your attention to our stock of ,dairy ,furnishing ,goods1 being the only complete assortment in this line to be found in the ,united ,states4 ,believing we can make it an object for you to purchase of us1 we earnestly solicit your patronage4 ,we shall issue our ,price ,list about the #ast of ,march4 ,those sending their names to us1 will receive a copy of the same by mail4 ,,cheese ,,vats4 ,,we ,,sell ,ralph's and ,o',neil's ,patent ,vats1 ,bagg's1 ,miller's1 and ,schermerhorn's ,patent ,heaters1 at ,manufacturers' prices4 ,,hoops4 ,,all ,,sizes4 ,improved ,hard ,wood1 ,extra ,hooped with ,iron1 ,welded and ,riveted ,bands1 and ,malleable ,handles1 also ,galvanized ,hoops4 ,,screws4 ,,all ,,styles ,,and ,,sizes4 ,wrought ,iron1 and of superior manufacture4 ,,bandage4 ,,all ,,widths4 #bf1 #bh1 #cd1 #cf1 #ch and #dj inch1 ,bleached and ,unbleached4 ,linen ,strainer and ,linen and ,cotton ,press and ,cap ,cloth1 also ,bleached and ,brown ,sheetings4 ,,stone ,,rennet ,,jars4 ,sizes #h1 #aj1 #ab1 #ae and #bj gallons4 ,,weigh and ,,carrying ,,cans4 ,,all ,,sizes4 ,with ,patent ,bottoms1 and extra heavy ,tin4 ,burnap's ,concave ,can ,bottoms and ,convex ,tops1 best thing made4 ,,dairy ,,knives4 ,young's celebrated ,two ,edged1 ,cast ,steel1 best in use1 all sizes1 with ,perpendicular and ,horizontal ,blades4 ,,annotto4 ,common1 ,medium1 and ,extra ,fine1 also ,liquid ,annato4 ,,rennets4 ,american and ,imported1 of superior quality and strength4 ,,miscellaneous4 ,factory ,account ,books1 all ,sizes4 ,curd ,scoops1 wood and tin4 ,rubber and ,tin ,syphons and ,strainers4 ,rubber ,mops and ,aprons4 ,improved ,per ,cent4 ,lactometers4 ,alkali and ,spirit ,meters4 ,legal ,instruments for detecting impurities in ,milk4 ,glass ,test ,tubes4 ,cheese and ,butter ,tryers4 ,indelible ,marking ,paste1 red1 blue and black4 ,stencil ,plates and ,brushes4 ,factory ,brands4 ,factory ,slates4 ,factory ,soldering ,irons4 ,weigh ,can ,gates1 #c in4 ,dairy ,dippers4 ,milk and ,hot ,water ,faucets1 all sizes4 ,conductor ,heads4 ,scale ,boards1 all sizes4 ,wood1 ,iron and ,lead ,water ,pipes and ,steam ,pipes4 ,curd ,sink ,castors4 ,mc,adams' ,english ,curd ,mills4 ,platform ,scales4 ,potash and ,concentrated ,lye4 ,new ,style ,brass ,thermometers4 ,finally1 every article used by ,cheese ,factory and ,dairymen1 pertaining to the manufacture of ,cheese4 ,we also sell the ,annual ,reports of the ,american ,dairymen's ,association1 and ,mc,adams' explanation of the ,cheddar ,system4 ,factorymen wishing ,cheese-,makers1 will do well to apply to us1 as we have a list of ,first ,class ,makers desiring situations4 ,cheese-,makers who are competent1 and can give satisfactory references1 may do well to make application to us4 ,goods ordered from us will be carefully packed and shipped as directed to any part of the ,world4 ,,jones ,,faulkner1 ,no4 #ada ,,genesee ,,street1 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,great ,,reduction ,,in ,,the ,,price ,,of ,,clothing6 ,some of the ,,bargains to be found at the ,,great ,,wardrobe4 ,,call ,,and ,,inspect ,,them4 ,,black ,,broadcloth ,,frockcoats1 ,only ,seven ,dollars4 ,,heavy ,,black ,,doeskin ,,pants1 ,only ,four ,dollars4 ,,fine ,,black ,,doeskin ,,vests1 ,only ,two ,dollars and ,fifty ,cents4 ,,heavy ,,stout ,,pants1 7,,black ,,or ,,mixed17 ,only ,three ,dollars4 ,,heavy ,,moscow ,,beaver ,,overcoats1 ,only ,fifteen ,dollars4 ,,heavy ,,and ,,warm ,,overcoats1 ,only ,six ,dollars and ,fifty ,cents4 ,,good ,,all ,,wool ,,overcoats1 ,only ,seven ,dollars4 ,,heavy ,,all ,,wool ,,sackcoats1 ,only ,six ,dollars4 ,a ,,large ,,stock ,,of ,,boys' ,,clothing1 ,a ,good ,share at ,cost1 and part ,less than ,cost4 ,a ,splendid ,assortment of ,,furnishing ,,goods1 ,cheaper than at any other ,store4 ,the ,new and ,elegant ,,irving ,,paper ,,collar1 ,only ,ten ,cents per ,box4 ,,fine ,,linen ,,collars1 ,only ,one ,dollar and ,fifty ,cents per ,dozen4 ,,good ,,white ,,shirts1 ,only ,one ,dollar ,each4 ,,quaker ,,city ,,fine ,,shirts1 the ,best ,shirts in the ,united ,states4 ,those ,made from ,new ,york ,mills ,muslin1 ,only ,three ,dollars ,each4 ,from ,wamsutta ,muslin1 ,only ,two ,dollars and ,seventy-five ,cents4 ,lower ,grades of the same make1 at ,two ,dollars and ,fifty ,cents and ,two ,dollars ,each4 ,don't ,fail to ,examine these ,shirts--,it may be an ,advantage to ,you4 ,,fine ,,white ,,wrappers ,,and ,,drawers1 ,only ,one ,dollar ,each4 ,,heavy ,,mixed ,,wrappers ,,and ,,drawers1 ,only ,fifty ,cents ,each4 ,,call ,,at ,,the ,,great ,,wardrobe ,,the ,,model ,,clothing ,,store1 #aaj #aab ,genesee ,st41 ,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,charles ,c4 ,,kingsley4 ,agents for the ,double ,warp ,royal ,standard ,alpacas4 ,we ,make a ,specialty of ,flannels and ,blankets4 ,illustration ,,agents ,,for ,,matier ,,co41 ,,of ,,belfast1 ,,linen ,,manufacturers4 ,agents for ,williston's ,combed ,sea ,island ,machine ,thread4 ,v4 ,b4 ,,stewart ,,co41 ,manufacturers of and ,dealers in ,,cloaks1 ,,dry ,,fancy ,,goods1 ,silks1 ,shawls1 ,dress ,goods1 ,cloakings1 ,,carpets1 ,,oil ,,cloths1 ,,mats1 c41 ,nos4 #aff #afh ,genesee ,street1 ,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,chamberlain ,,cushman1 --,,general ,,agents ,,for ,,the-- ,singer's ,sewing ,machines --,,and-- ,,bickford ,,family ,,knitting ,,machine1 ,,for ,,the ,,counties ,,of ,chenango1 ,herkimer1 ,jefferson1 ,lewis1 ,oneida1 ,otsego and ,st4 ,lawrence4 #aac ,,genesee ,,st41 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,the ,celebrated ,singer ,family ,sewing ,machine1 one of the oldest and most reliable ,sewing ,machines in use4 ,it has been very much improved in the past year1 making it the most quiet and easiest running shuttle machine now in use4 ,it is adapted to a greater range of work than any other one machine1 sewing from the finest tuck in ,tarliton to a heavy ,beaver coat4 ,its ,attachments for ,hemming1 ,braiding1 ,cording1 ,tucking1 ,quilting1 ,felling1 ,trimming1 ,binding1 ,ruffling and ,embroidering1 are novel and practical1 and have been invented and adjusted especially for this ,machine4 ,there is now nearly #djj1jjj in use4 ,there is now being made and sold over #d1jjj machines each week1 which is one of its best recommendations over other machines4 ,it is perfectly simple and easy to learn4 ,don't fail to see one before purchasing a machine4 ,,the ,,bickford ,,knitting ,,machine ,will ,knit #ae1jjj stitches or #ah inches of ,perfect ,work in a ,minute4 ,socks complete and whole with double heel and toe4 ,strips from #a to #ab inches wide1 with selvedge on each edge4 ,fringe of any length1 ,cord of any size1 and ,tufting of any style4 ,,price #cj ,,dollars4 ,,taylor ,,co4',s ,jewelry ,establishment1 #gj ,,genesee ,,st41 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,american ,,watches1 ,,comprising ,,the ,illustration ,,howard ,,watch1 ,,waltham ,,watch1 ,,elgin ,,watch1 ,,united ,,states ,,watch1 ,,all ,,at ,,factory ,,prices1 ,in ,gold and ,silver ,cases4 ,in ,,solid ,,silver ,,ware1 of ,gorham ,manufacture1 and in ,,fine ,,silver ,,plated ,,ware1 of ,rogers ,bros4 make1 we have a great variety of the very best patterns4 ,in ,,elegant ,,jewelry we have the newest and most desirable patterns1 consisting of ,gold ,chains1 ,sets--,pins and ,ear-,rings1 ,finger-,rings1 ,lockets1 ,bracelets1 ,sleeve-,buttons1 ,studs1 c41 c4 ,purchasers of any articles in our line are invited to give us a call4 ,all goods warranted4 ,w4 ,s4 ,,taylor ,,co41 #gj ,genesee ,st4 ,,the ,,genuine ,,or1 ,elias ,howe ,sewing ,machine4 ,illustration3 ,,this ,,medallion ,,is ,,embedded ,,in ,,every ,,genuine ,,howe ,,sewing ,,machine ,hemmer1 ,feller1 ,binder1 ,braider1 ,quilter1 ,self-,baster1 ,corder1 7adjustable foot17 ,embroidery ,attachment1 and ,gage4 ,,sold ,,only ,,at #hg ,,genesee ,,st41 ,,utica4 ,,overton ,,buckingham1 ,agents4 ,n4 ,b4--,none genuine without the ,trade ,mark1 7,medallion ,profile of ,,elias ,,howe1 ,jr417 is imbedded in the ,machine4 ,this is the ,,genuine ,,howe4 ,prof4 ,,elias ,,howe1 ,jr41 the inventor1 has ,the ,exclusive ,right to ,make and ,sell this ,machine4 ,decision1 ,judge ,,ingraham--,may1 #ahfg4 ,awarded the ,grand ,cross of the ,legion of ,honor1 the ,grand ,gold ,medal and a ,silver ,medal1 ,paris ,exposition1 #ahfg2 the ,grand ,gold ,medal1 ,london1 #ahfb2 ,six ,first ,premiums1 ,n4 ,y4 ,state ,fair1 #ahfg1 on ,machine and ,samples of ,work4 ,also1 the following ,,state ,,fairs of #ahfh1 have awarded this ,machine the ,,first ,,premium3 ,new ,york1 ,ohio1 ,pennsylvania1 ,massachusetts4 ,vermont1 ,new ,hampshire1 ,wisconsin1 ,indiana4 ,at the ,county ,fairs of ,madison1 ,onondaga1 ,oswego1 ,wayne1 ,orleans1 ,tompkins1 ,seneca1 ,monroe1 ,herkimer1 ,schuyler1 ,livingston and a host of others1 and ,town ,fairs too numerous to mention4 ,agents for the ,,new ,,williston ,,thread1 made of ,combed ,sea ,island ,cotton4 ,,peckham',s ,,popular ,,cooking ,,stove4 ,illustration3 ,p4,p4,c4 ,a ,new ,strictly ,first ,class ,cooking ,stove1 ,,for ,,coal ,,and ,,wood4 ,unequalled and ,warranted ,,in ,,every ,,respect4 ,the ,success and ,superiority of this new ,stove is ,established beyond a doubt4 ,for its ,economy of ,fuel1 ,spacious ,ovens1 ,splendid ,baking ,qualities1 ,facilities for ,keeping ,fire for great length of time1 ,extra ,weight and ,quality of ,castings1 and ,superior ,fitting of the ,joints4 ,new ,patent ,movable ,reservoir1 ,new ,patent ,sectional ,fire-,plate1 ,new ,patent ,sad ,iron ,heater1 ,new ,patent ,roaster4 ,all ,valuable ,improvements4 ,call and ,examine the ,stoves and get ,circulars with ,testimonials4 ,,manufactured ,,and ,,sold ,,by ,j4 ,s4 ,m4 ,,peckham1 #bj ,catharine ,st41 ,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,peckham',s ,,new ,,pattern ,agricultural ,furnace ,boiler1 ,illustration ,warranted to ,boil with ,less ,fuel and in ,less ,time than any ,boiler ,made4 ,this ,furnace is used to great advantage by ,cheese-,makers1 ,farmers1 ,butchers1 ,bakers and ,hotel ,keepers1 and for various other ,manufacturing and ,mechanical purposes4 ,the ,flues of this ,boiler are so constructed that the whole surface of the ,caldron is heated at the same time4 ,they are portable1 and require only a few lengths of pipe to fit them for use1 and possess great advantages over ,caldron ,kettles set in brick4 ,j4 ,s4 ,m4 ,,peckham1 ,sole ,manufacturers1 ,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,the ,,premium ,,harvester ,,of ,,america4 ,illustration3 ,,on ,,the ,,road4 ,,the ,,original ,,and ,,only ,,premium ,,buckeye ,,mower ,,and ,,combined ,,self-,,raking ,,reaper4 ,awarded the ,highest ,premium both in ,mowing and ,self-,raking1 at the most important field trials ever held in any country4 ,over #abe1jjj now in use4 #cj1jjj sold in a single season4 ,,manufactured ,,by ,,adriance1 ,,platt ,,co41 ,,for ,j4 ,m4 ,,childs ,,co41 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,office1 #aba ,genesee ,street4 ,circulars forwarded by mail4 ,,hints ,,on ,,cheese-,,making1 ,,for ,,the ,dairyman1 the ,factoryman1 ,,and ,,the ,,manufacturer4 ,,by ,t4 ,d4 ,,curtis4 ,,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,roberts1 ,,printer1 ,,morning ,,herald ,,establishment4 #ahgj4 ,,the ,,best ,,dairy ,,paper6 ,at a recent meeting of the ,farmers' ,club1 of the ,american ,institute1 in ,new ,york ,city1 a correspondent asked for ,,the ,,best ,,paper ,,in ,,this ,,country ,,devoted ,,to ,,the ,,dairy ,,interest8 ,mr4 ,f4 ,d4 ,,curtis1 ,vice-,president of the ,state ,agricultural ,society1 answered1 and it went on record as the ,,sentiment ,,of ,,the ,,club3 ,,the ,,utica ,,herald4 ,,the ,,utica ,,weekly ,,herald ,is ,only ,two ,dollars a ,year1 in advance4 ,,the ,,dairymen',s ,,paper6 ,,the ,,utica ,,weekly ,,herald has1 since the first organization of the ,dairymen's ,association1 reported promptly and fully all of its proceedings and never more fully and satisfactorily than the addresses and debates before the ,convention held in ,utica in ,january1 #ahgj4 ,the ,,utica ,,herald also devotes especial attention to everything connected with the dairy interest2 to ,diseases of ,cattle and their ,cure2 ,the ,manufacture of ,butter and ,cheese1 and to all ,improved ,processes and ,apparatus4 ,the weekly edition every ,tuesday contains the report of the ,,little ,,falls ,,market ,,of ,,the ,,previous ,,day4 ,the ,,utica ,,herald has made the dairy interest a specialty1 and in its weekly edition devotes to it ,more ,space and ,attention than any other ,paper in the ,country4 ,at the same time1 the ,,utica ,,weekly ,,herald aims to be in all respects a ,,first-,,class ,,family ,,paper4 ,its ,editorial ,articles are accepted and recognized as fitly speaking the ,union sentiment1 the intelligent convictions1 and the thoughtful aspirations of the million of people which it represents4 ,the ,,utica ,,herald1 in its weekly as well as its morning edition1 is pre-eminently ,a ,,newspaper4 ,by thorough classification and elaborate condensation it presents the gist of all the news in the briefest space1 and the person who reads no other journal1 will not be ignorant of the current of events1 and the movement of men and principles4 ,,the ,,correspondence weekly published in our columns1 from ,washington1 ,new ,york1 ,albany and elsewhere1 is not inferior in literary or political interest to that of any other journal in the country4 ,,the ,,literary ,,department will receive during the coming year1 increased attention1 and we trust will deserve in even a higher degree than heretofore the encomiums which have been bestowed upon it4 ,,advertise ,,in ,,it4 ,manufacturers and merchants wishing to reach dairymen and producers of butter and cheese1 can do so in no other way so readily and so cheaply1 as through the columns of the ,,utica ,,weekly ,,herald4 ,,the ,,terms4 ,the ,,utica ,,weekly ,,herald is published at the low price of ,,two ,,dollars ,a ,,year4 ,payment is required in advance4 ,taking into account the size and character of the paper--its political1 news1 literary and agricultural merits--it is believed that this is ,,the ,,cheapest ,,paper ,,published4 ,now is the time to form clubs4 ,let the circulation be doubled during the current year4 ,address1 ,,utica ,,herald1 #fj ,genesee ,street1 ,utica1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,william ,,ralph ,,co41 ,,manufacturers ,,of ,,oneida ,,cheese ,,vats1 ,,for ,,cheese-,,factories ,,and ,,dairies4 7,see ,advertisements ,inside47 ,illustration ,address1 ,,william ,,ralph ,,co41 #agc and #age ,genesee ,st41 ,utica1 ,n4 ,y4