,,cakes ,,and ,,ale ,,by ,,the ,,same ,,author ,,the ,,flowing ,,bowl ,a ,,treatise ,,on ,,drinks ,,of ,,all ,,kinds ,,and ,,of ,,all ,,periods1 ,,interspersed ,,with ,,sundry ,,anecdotes ,,and ,,reminiscences ,,by ,,edward ,,spencer 7',,nathaniel ,,gubbins'7 ,author of ,cakes and ,ale1 etc4 ,crown #hvo41 cloth gilt1 #b_/f net4 ,,second ,,edition4 ,with cover design by the late ,,phil ,,may4 ,the ,flowing ,bowl overflows with good cheer4 ,in the happy style that enlivens its companion volume1 ,cakes and ,ale1 the author gives a history of drinks and their use1 interspersed with innumerable recipes for drinks new and old1 dug out of records of ancient days1 or set down anew4 ,,london3 ,,stanley ,,paul ,,co4 #ca1 ,essex ,street1 ,strand1 ,w4,c4 ,,cakes ,,ale ,a ,,dissertation ,,on ,,banquets ,,interspersed ,,with ,,various ,,recipes1 ,,more ,,or ,,less ,,original1 ,,and ,,anecdotes1 ,,mainly ,,veracious ,,by ,,edward ,,spencer 7',,nathaniel ,,gubbins'7 ,,author ,,of ,,the ,,flowing ,,bowl1 ,,etc4 ,,fourth ,,edition ,,stanley ,,paul ,,co4 #ca1 ,,essex ,,street1 ,,strand1 ,w4,c4 ,first printed ,april #ahig ,reprinted ,may #ahig ,cheap ,edition ,february #aijj ,reprinted #aiac ,,to ,,the ,,modern ,,lucullus ,,john ,,corlett ,,grandest ,,of ,,hosts1 ,,best ,,of ,,trencher-,,men ,i ,,dedicate 7,,without ,,any ,,sort ,,of ,,permission7 ,,this ,,book ,,preface ,a long time ago1 an estimable lady fell at the feet of an habitual publisher1 and prayed unto him3-- ,give1 oh6 give me the subject of a book for which the world has a need1 and ,i will write it for you4 ,are you an author1 madam8 asked the publisher1 motioning his visitor to a seat4 ,no1 sir1 was the proud reply1 ,i am a poet4 ,ah6 said the great man4 ,i am afraid there is no immediate worldly need of a poet4 ,if you could only write a good cookery book1 now6 ,the story goes on to relate how the poetess1 not rebuffed in the least1 started on the requisite culinary work1 directly she got home2 pawned her jewels to purchase postage stamps1 and wrote far and wide for recipes1 which in course of time she obtained1 by the hundredweight4 ,other recipes she conveyed from ancient works of gastronomy1 and in a year or two the magnum opus was given to the world2 the lady's share in the profits giving her adequate provision for the remainder of her life4 ,we are not told1 but it is presumable1 that the publisher received a little adequate provision too4 ,history occasionally repeats itself2 and the history of the present work begins in very much the same way4 ,whether it will finish in an equally satisfactory manner is problematical4 ,i do not possess much of the divine afflatus myself2 but there has ever lurked within me some sort of ambition to write a book--something held together by tree calf1 half morocco1 or boards2 something that might find its way into the hearts and homes of an enlightened public2 something which will give some of my young friends ample opportunity for criticism4 ,in the exercise of my profession ,i have written leagues of descriptive copy--mostly lies and racing selections1--but up to now there has been no urgent demand for a book of any sort from this pen4 ,for years my ambition has remained ungratified4 ,publishers--as a rule1 the most faint-hearted and least speculative of mankind--have held aloof4 ,and whatever suggestions ,i might make were rejected1 with determination1 if not with contumely4 ,at length came the hour1 and the man2 the introduction to a publisher with an eye for budding and hitherto misdirected talent4 ,do you care1 sir1 ,i inquired at the outset1 to undertake the dissemination of a bulky work on ,political ,economy8 ,frankly1 sir1 ,i do not1 was the reply4 ,then ,i tried him with various subjects--social reform1 the drama1 bimetallism1 the ethics of starting prices1 the advantages of motor cars in ,african warfare1 natural history1 the martyrdom of ,ananias1 practical horticulture1 military law1 and dogs2 until he took down an old duck-gun from a peg over the mantelpiece1 and assumed a threatening attitude4 ,peace having been restored1 the self-repetition of history recommenced4 ,i can do with a good1 bold1 brilliant1 lightly treated1 exhaustive work on ,gastronomy1 said the publisher1 you are well acquainted with the subject1 ,i believe8 ,i'm a bit of a parlour cook1 if that's what you mean1 was my humble reply4 ,at a salad1 a grill1 an anchovy toast1 or a cooling and cunningly compounded cup1 ,i can be underwritten at ordinary rates4 ,but ,i could no more cook a haunch of venison1 or even boil a rabbit1 or make an economical ,christmas pudding1 than ,i could sail a boat in a nor'-easter2 and ,madam ,cook would certainly eject me from her kitchen1 with a clout attached to the hem of my dinner jacket1 inside five minutes4 ,eventually it was decided that ,i should commence this book4 ,what ,i want1 said the publisher1 is a series of essays on food1 a few anecdotes of stirring adventure--you have a fine flow of imagination1 ,i understand--and a few useful1 but uncommon recipes4 ,but plenty of plums in the book1 my dear sir1 plenty of plums4 ,but1 suppose my own supply of plums should not hold out1 what am ,i to do8 ,what do you do--what does the cook do1 when the plums for her pudding run short8 ,get some more2 the ,museum1 my dear sir1 the great storehouse of national literature1 is free to all whose character is above the normal standard4 ,when your memory and imagination fail1 try the ,british ,museum4 ,you know what is a mightier factor than both sword and pen8 ,precisely so4 ,and remember that in replenishing your store from the works of those who have gone before1 you are only following in their footsteps4 ,i only bar ,sydney ,smith and ,charles ,lamb4 ,let me have the script by ,christmas--d'you smoke8--mind the step--good morning4 ,in this way1 gentle reader1 were the trenches dug1 the saps laid for the attack of the great work4 ,the bulk of it is original1 and the adventures in which the writer has taken part are absolutely true4 ,about some of the others ,i would not be so positive4 ,some of the recipes have previously figured in the pages of the ,sporting ,times1 the ,lady's ,pictorial1 and the ,man of the ,world1 to the proprietors of which journals ,i hereby express my kindly thanks for permission to revive them4 ,many of the recipes are original2 some are my own2 others have been sent in by relatives1 and friends of my youth2 others have been adapted for modern requirements from works of great antiquity2 whilst others again--,i am nothing if not candid--have been conveyed from the works of more modern writers1 who in their turn had borrowed them from the works of their ancestors4 ,there is nothing new under the sun2 and there are but few absolute novelties which are subjected to the heat of the kitchen fire4 ,if the style of the work be faulty1 the reason--not the excuse--is that the style is innate1 and not modelled upon anybody else's style4 ,the language ,i have endeavoured to make as plain1 homely1 and vigorous as is the food advocated4 ,if the criticisms on foreign cookery should offend the talented chef1 ,i have the satisfaction of knowing that1 as ,i have forsworn his works1 he will be unable to retaliate with poison4 ,and if the criticisms on the modern ,english methods of preparing food should attract the attention of the home caterer1 he may possibly be induced to give his steam-chest and his gas-range a rest1 and put the roast beef of ,old ,england on his table1 occasionally2 though ,i have only the very faintest hopes that he will do so4 ,for the monster eating-houses and mammoth hotels of to-day are for the most part run by companies and syndicates2 and the company within the dining-room suffer occasionally1 in order that dividends may be possible after payment has been made for the elaborate1 and wholly unnecessary1 furniture1 and decorations4 ,wholesome food is usually sufficient for the ordinary ,british appetite1 without such surroundings as marble pillars1 ,etruscan vases1 nude figures1 gilding1 and looking-glasses1 which only serve to distract attention from the banquet4 ,it is with many a sigh that ,i recall the good old-fashioned inn1 where the guest really received a warm welcome4 ,nowadays1 the warmest part of that welcome is usually the bill4 ,it is related of the wittiest man of the nineteenth century1 my late friend ,mr4 ,henry ,j4 ,byron1 that1 upon one occasion1 whilst walking home with a brother dramatist1 after the first performance of his comedy1 which had failed to please the audience1 ,byron shed tears4 ,how is this8 inquired his friend4 ,the failure of my play appears to affect you strangely4 ,i was only weeping1 was the reply1 because ,i was afraid you'd set to work1 and write another4 ,but there need be no tears shed on any page of this food book4 ,for ,i am not going to write another4 ,,contents ,,chapter ,i ,,breakfast ,formal or informal8--,an eccentric old gentleman--,the ancient ,britons--,breakfast in the days of ,good ,queen ,bess--,a few tea statistics--,garraway's--,something about coffee--,brandy for breakfast--,the evolution of the staff of life--,free ,trade--,the cheap loaf1 and no cash to buy it ,pages #a-i ,,chapter ,,ii ,,breakfast 7continued7 ,country-house life--,an ,englishwoman at her best--,guests' comforts--,what to eat at the first meal--,a few choice recipes--,a noble grill-sauce--,the poor outcast--,appetising dishes--,hotel worries--,the old regime and the new--,no cheques2 no soles1 and whitings is hoff--,a halibut steak--,skilly and oakum--,breakfast out of the rates #aj-ba ,,chapter ,,iii ,,breakfast 7continued7 ,bonnie ,scotland--,parritch an' cream--,fin'an haddies--,a knife on the ocean wave-- la ,franais--,in the gorgeous ,east--,chota hazri--,english as she is spoke--,dk bungalow fare--,some quaint dishes--,breakfast with my tutor--,a ,don's absence of mind #bb-cc ,,chapter ,,iv ,,luncheon ,why lunch8--,sir ,henry ,thompson on overdoing it--,the children's dinner--,city lunches--,ye ,olde ,cheshyre ,cheese--,doctor ,johnson--,ye pudding--,a great fall in food--,a snipe pudding--,skirt1 not rump steak--,lancashire hot-pot--,a ,cape brady #cd-dc ,,chapter ,v ,,luncheon 7continued7 ,shooting luncheons--,cold tea and a crust--,clear turtle--,such larks6--,jugged duck and oysters--,woodcock pie--,hunting luncheons--,pie crusts--,the true ,yorkshire pie--,race-course luncheons--,suggestions to caterers--,the ,jolly ,sandboys stew--,various recipes--,a race-course sandwich--,angels' pie--,suffolk pride--,devilled larks--,a light lunch in the ,himalayas #dd-eh ,,chapter ,,vi ,,dinner ,origin--,early dinners--,the noble ,romans--,vitellius the ,glutton--,origin of haggis--,the ,saxons--,highland hospitality--,the ,french invasion--,waterloo avenged--,the bad fairy ,ala--,comparisons--,the ,english cook or the foreign food torturer8--,plain or flowery--,fresh fish and the flavour wrapped up--,george ,augustus ,sala--,doctor ,johnson again #ei-gb ,,chapter ,,vii ,,dinner 7continued7 ,imitation--,dear ,lady ,thistlebrain--,try it on the dog--,criminality of the ,english caterer--,the stove1 the stink1 the steamer--,roasting v4 baking--,false economy--,dirty ovens--,frills and fingers--,time over dinner--,a long-winded ,bishop--,corned beef #gc-ha ,,chapter ,,viii ,,dinner 7continued7 ,a merry ,christmas--,bin ,f--,a ,noel banquet--,water-cress--,how ,royalty fares--,the ,tsar--,bouillabaisse--,tournedos--,bisq ue-- ,vol-au-vent--,pr sal--,chinese banquets--,a fixed bayonet--,bernardin ,salmi--,the duck-squeezer--,american cookery--,borston beans--,he couldn't eat beef #hb-if ,,chapter ,,ix ,,dinner 7continued7 ,french soup--,a regimental dinner--,a city banquet--,baksheesh--,aboard ship--,an ideal dinner--,cod's liver--,sleeping in the kitchen--,a fricandeau--,regimental messes--,peter the ,great--,napoleon the ,great--,victoria--,the ,iron ,duke--,mushrooms--,a medical opinion--,a ,north ,pole banquet--,dogs as food--,plain unvarnished fare--,the ,kent ,road cookery--,more beans than bacon #ig-aaj ,,chapter ,x ,,vegetables ,use and abuse of the potato--,its eccentricities--,its origin--,hawkins1 not ,raleigh1 introduced it into ,england--,with or without the jacket8--,don't let it be -la-ed--,benevolence and large-heartedness of the cabbage family--,pease on earth--,pythagoras on the bean--,giving him beans--,haricot a misnomer--,borston beans--,frijoles--,the carrot--,crcy soup--,the ,prince of ,wales--,the ,black ,prince and the ,king of ,bohemia #aaa-abb ,,chapter ,,xi ,,vegetables 7continued7 ,the brief lives of the best--,a vegetable with a pedigree-- ,argenteuil--,the ,elysian ,fields--,the tomato the emblem of love--,neeps--,spinach--,stomach-brush-- ,the savoury tear-provoker--,invaluable for wasp-stings--,celery merely cultivated smallage--,the ,apium--,the parsnip--,o ,jerusalem6--,the golden sunflower--,how to get pheasants--,a vegetarian banquet--,swelling wisibly #abc-acc ,,chapter ,,xii ,,curries ,different modes of manufacture--,the native fraud--,that man's family--,the ,french kari--,a ,parsee curry--,the oyster in the sauce--,ingredients--,malay curry--,locusts--,when to serve--,what to curry--,prawn curry--,dry curry1 champion recipe--,rice--,the ,bombay duck #acd-adf ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,salads ,nebuchadnezzar v4 ,sydney ,smith--,salt8--,no salad-bowl--,french origin--,apocryphal story of ,francatelli--,salads and salads--,water-cress and dirty water--,salad-maker born not made--,lobster salad--,lettuce1 ,wipe or wash8--,mayonnaise--,potato salad--,tomato ditto--,celery ditto--,a memorable ditto #adg-aeg ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,salads ,,and ,,condiments ,roman salad--,italian ditto--,various other salads--,sauce for cold mutton--,chutnine--,raw chutnee--,horse-radish sauce--,christopher ,north's sauce--,how to serve a mackerel--,sauce ,tartare--,ditto for sucking pig--,delights of making ,sambal--,a new language #aeh-afi ,,chapter ,,xv ,,supper ,cleopatra's supper--,oysters--,danger in the ,aden bivalve--,oyster stew--,ball suppers--,pretty dishes--,the ,taj ,mahal--,aspic--,bloater paste and whipped cream--,ladies' recipes--,cookery colleges--,tripe--,smothered in onions--,north ,riding fashion--,an hotel supper--,lord ,tomnoddy at the ,magpie and ,stump #agj-ahj ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,supper 7continued7 ,old supper-houses--,the ,early ,closing ,act--,evans's--,cremorne ,gardens--,the ,albion--,parlour cookery--,kidneys fried in the fire-shovel--,the true way to grill a bone--,cannie ,carle--,my lady's bower--,kidney dumplings--,a ,middleham supper--,steaks cut from a colt by brother to ,strafford out of sister to ,bird on the ,wing #aha-aia ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,camping ,,out ,the ups and downs of life--,stirring adventures--,marching on to glory--,shooting in the tropics--,pepper-pot--,with the ,rajah ,sahib--,goat-sacrifices at breakfast time--,simla to ,cashmere--,manners and customs of ,thibet--,burmah--,no place to get fat in--,insects--,voracity of the natives--,snakes--,sport in the ,jungle--,loaded for snipe1 sure to meet tiger--,with the gippos--,no baked hedgehog--,cheap milk #aib-bje ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,compound ,,drinks ,derivation of punch--,five--,the milk brand--,the best materials--,various other punches--,bischoff or ,bishop--,halo punch--,toddy--,the toddy tree of ,india--,flip--,a peg--,john ,collins--,out of the guard-room #bjf-bah ,,chapter ,,xix ,,cups ,,and ,,cordials ,five recipes for claret cup--,balaclava cup--,orgeat--,ascot cup--,stout and champagne--,shandy-gaff for millionaires--,ale cup--,cobblers which will stick to the last--,home ,ruler--,cherry brandy--,sloe gin--,home-made1 if possible--,a new industry--,apricot brandy--,highland cordial--,bitters--,jumping-powder-- ,orange brandy--,mandragora--,sleep rock thy brain6 #bai-bca ,,chapter ,,xx ,,the ,,daylight ,,drink ,evil effects of dram-drinking--,the ,gin-crawl--,abstinence in ,h4,m4 service--,city manners and customs--,useless to argue with the soaker--,cocktails--,pet names for drams--,the free lunch system--,fancy mixtures--,why no cassis8--,good advice like water on a duck's back #bcb-bde ,,chapter ,,xxi ,,gastronomy ,,in ,,fiction ,,and ,,drama ,thomas ,carlyle--,thackeray--,harrison ,ainsworth--,sir ,walter ,scott--,miss ,braddon--,marie ,corelli--,f4 ,c4 ,philips--,blackmore--,charles ,dickens--,pickwick reeking with alcohol--,brandy and oysters--,little ,dorrit--,great ,expectations--,micawber as a punch-maker--,david ,copperfield--,practicable food on the stage--,johnny ,toole's story of ,tiny ,tim and the goose #bdf-bei ,,chapter ,,xxii ,,restoratives ,william of ,normandy--,a head wind at sea--,beware the druggist--,pick-me-ups of all sorts and conditions--,anchovy toast for the invalid--,a small bottle--,straight talks to fanatics--,total abstinence as bad as the other thing--,moderation in all matters--,wisely and slow--,carpe diem--,but have a thought for the morrow #bfj-bgd ,,chapter ,i ,,breakfast ,the day breaks slow1 but e'en must man break-fast4 ,formal or informal8--,an eccentric old gentleman--,the ancient ,britons--,breakfast in the days of ,good ,queen ,bess--,a few tea statistics--,garraway's--,something about coffee--,brandy for breakfast--,the evolution of the staff of life--,free ,trade--,the cheap loaf1 and no cash to buy it4 ,this is a very serious subject4 ,the first meal of the day has exercised more influence over history than many people may be aware of4 ,it is not easy to preserve an equal mind or keep a stiff upper lip upon an empty stomach2 and indigestible food-stuffs have probably lost more battles than sore feet and bad ammunition4 ,it is an incontestable fact that the great ,napoleon lost the battles of ,borodino and ,leipsic through eating too fast4 ,when good digestion waits on appetite1 great men are less liable to commit mistakes--and a mistake in a great man is a crime--than when dyspepsia has marked them for her own2 and this rule applies to all men4 ,there should be no hurry or formality about breakfast4 ,your punctual host and hostess may be all very well from their own point of view2 but black looks and sarcastic welcomings are an abomination to the guest who may have overslept himself or herself1 and who fails to say1 ,good-morning just on the stroke of nine o'clock4 ,far be it from the author's wish to decry the system of family prayers1 although the spectacle of the full strength of the domestic company1 from the stern-featured housekeeper1 or the chief lady's-maid 7the housekeeper is frequently too grand1 or too much cumbered with other duties to attend public worship71 to the diminutive page-boy1 standing all in a row1 facing the cups and saucers1 is occasionally more provocative of mirth than reverence4 ,but too much law and order about fast-breaking is to be deplored4 ,i'm not very punctual1 ,i'm afraid1 ,sir ,john1 ,i once heard a very charming lady observe to her host1 as she took her seat at the table1 exactly ten minutes after the line of menials had filed out4 ,on the contrary1 ,lady ,v---- returned the master of the house1 with a cast-iron smile1 you are punctual in your unpunctuality2 for you have missed prayers by the sixth part of one hour1 every morning since you came4 ,now what should be done to a host like that8 ,in the long ago ,i was favoured with the acquaintance of an elderly gentleman of property1 a most estimable1 though eccentric1 man4 ,and he invariably breakfasted with his hat on4 ,it did not matter if ladies were present or not4 ,down he would sit1 opposite the ham and eggs--or whatever dish it might chance to be--with a white hat1 with mourning band attached1 surmounting his fine head4 ,we used to think the presence of the hat was owing to partial baldness2 but1 as he never wore it at luncheon or dinner1 that idea was abandoned4 ,in fact1 he pleaded that the hat kept his thoughts in2 and as after breakfast he was closeted with his steward1 or agent1 or stud-groom1 or keeper1 for several hours1 he doubtless let loose some of those thoughts to one or the other4 ,at all events we never saw him again till luncheon1 unless there was any hunting or shooting to be done4 ,this same old gentleman once rehearsed his own funeral on the carriage drive outside1 and stage-managed the solemn ceremony from his study window4 ,an under-gardener pushed a wheelbarrow1 containing a box of choice cuttings1 to represent the body2 and the butler posed as chief mourner4 ,and when anybody went wrong1 or the pall-bearers--six grooms--failed to keep in step1 the master would throw up the window-sash1 and roar-- ,begin again6 ,but this is wandering from the subject4 ,let us try back4 ,having made wide search amongst old and musty manuscripts1 ,i can find no record of a bill-of-fare of the first meal of the ancient ,britons4 ,our blue forefathers1 in all probability1 but seldom assisted at any such smart function as a wedding-breakfast1 or even a hunting one2 for the simple reason that it was a case with them of1 no hunt1 no breakfast4 ,unless one or other had killed the deer1 or the wild-boar1 or some other living thing to furnish the refection the feast was a ,barmecide one1 and much as we have heard of the strength and hardiness of our blue forefathers1 many of them must have died of sheer starvation4 ,for they had no weapons but clubs1 and rough cut flints1 with which to kill the beasts of the country--who were1 however1 occasionally lured into pitfalls2 and as to fish1 unless they tickled them1 the denizens of the streams must have had an easy time of it4 ,they had sheep1 but these were valuable chiefly on account of their wool2 as used to be the case in ,australia1 ere the tinned meat trade was established4 ,most of the fruits and vegetables which we enjoy to-day were introduced into ,britain by the ,romans4 ,snipe and woodcock and 7in the north7 grouse may have been bagged1 as well as hares4 ,but these poor savages knew not rabbits by sight1 nor indeed1 much of the feathered fowl which their more favoured descendants are in the habit of shooting1 or otherwise destroying1 for food4 ,the ancient ,britons knew not bacon and eggs1 nor the toothsome kipper1 nor yet the marmalade of ,dundee4 ,as for bread1 it was not invented in any shape or form until much later2 and its primitive state was a tough paste of flour1 water1 and 7occasionally7 milk--something like the damper of the ,australian bush1 or the unleavened chupati which the poorer classes in ,hindustan put up with1 after baking it1 at the present day4 ,the hardy1 independent ,saxon1 had a much better time of it1 in the way of meat and drink4 ,but with supper forming the chief meal of the day1 his breakfast was a simple1 though plentiful one1 and consisted chiefly of venison pasty and the flesh of goats1 washed down with ale1 or mead4 ,a free breakfast-table of ,elizabeth's time1 says an old authority1 or even during the more recent reign of ,charles ,,ii41 would contrast oddly with our modern morning meal4 ,there were meats1 hot and cold2 beef and brawn1 and boar's head1 the venison pasty1 and the ,wardon ,pie of west country pears4 ,there was hot bread1 too1 and sundry 'cates' which would now be strange to our eyes4 ,but to wash down these substantial viands there was little save ale4 ,the most delicate lady could procure no more suitable beverage than the blood of ,john ,barleycorn4 ,the most fretful invalid had to be content with a mug of small beer1 stirred up with a sprig of rosemary4 ,wine1 hippocras1 and metheglin were potations for supper-time1 not for breakfast1 and beer reigned supreme4 ,none but home productions figured on the board of our ancestors4 ,not for them were seas traversed1 or tropical shores visited1 as for us4 ,yemen and ,ceylon1 ,assam and ,cathay1 ,cuba and ,peru1 did not send daily tribute to their tables1 and the very names of tea and coffee1 of cocoa and chocolate1 were to them unknown4 ,the dethronement of ale1 subsequent on the introduction of these eastern products1 is one of the most marked events which have severed the social life of the present day from that of the past4 ,with the exception of the ,wardon pie and the cates1 the above bill-of-fare would probably satisfy the cravings of the ordinary ,johnny of to-day1 who has heard the chimes at midnight1 and would sooner face a charging tiger than drink tea or coffee with his first meal1 which1 alas6 but too often consists of a hot-pickle sandwich and a brandy and soda1 with not quite all the soda in4 ,but just imagine the fine lady of to-day with a large tankard of ,burton ale facing her at the breakfast-table4 ,tea1 which is said to have been introduced into ,china by ,djarma1 a native of ,india1 about ,a4,d4 #ejj1 was not familiar in ,europe until the end of the sixteenth century4 ,and it was not until #afeg1 when ,garraway opened a tea-house in ,exchange ,alley1 that ,londoners began tea-drinking as an experiment4 ,in #affb ,pepys writes-- ,home1 and there find my wife making of tea--two years before1 he called it tee 7a ,china drink7--a drink which ,mr4 ,pelling the ,pothicary tells her is good for her cold and defluxions4 ,in #agdj the price of tea ranged from #gs4 to #bds4 per lb4 ,in #agbe1 #cgj1cbc lbs4 were drunk in ,england1 and in #ahij1 #aid1jjh1jjj4 ,in #ahdj the duty was #bs4 #b;d4 per lb42 in #aheh #as4 #e;d4 per lb42 and in #ahij #d;d4 per lb4 ,the seed of ,the ,coffee-,tree1 which1 when roasted1 ground1 and mixed with water1 and unmixed with horse-beans1 dandelion-root1 or road-scrapings1 forms a most agreeable beverage to those who can digest it1 was not known to the ,greeks or ,romans1 but has been used in ,abyssinia and along the north-east coast of ,africa almost as long as those parts have been populated4 ,here1 in merry ,england1 where coffee was not introduced until the eighteenth century1 it was at first used but sparingly1 until it almost entirely took the place of chocolate1 which was the favoured beverage of the duchesses and fine madams who minced and flirted1 and plotted1 during the reign of the ,merry ,monarch1 fifty years or so before4 ,the march of knowledge has taught the thrifty housewife of to-day to roast her own coffee1 instead of purchasing it in that form from the retail shopkeeper1 who1 as a rule1 under-roasts the berry1 in order to keep the weight in4 ,but do not blame him too freely1 for he is occasionally a ,poor ,law ,guardian1 and has to keep pace with the ,stores4 ,during the ,georgian era1 the hard-drinking epoch1 breakfast far too often consisted chiefly of ,french brandy2 and the first meal was1 in consequence1 not altogether a happy or wholesome one1 nor conducive to the close study of serious subjects4 ,the history of ,the ,staff of ,life#a would require a much larger volume than this1 all to itself4 ,that the evolution of bread-making has been very gradual admits of no denial2 and as late as the ,tudor and ,stuart periods the art was still in its infancy4 ,the quality of the bread consumed was a test of social standing4 ,thus1 whilst the haut monde1 the height of society1 lords and dukes1 with countesses and dames of high degree1 were in the habit of consuming delicate manchets1 made of the finest wheaten flour1 of snowy purity1 the middle classes had to content themselves with white loaves of inferior quality4 ,to the journeyman and the 'prentice 7who had to endure1 with patience1 the buffets of master and mistress7 was meted out coarse but wholesome brown bread1 made from an admixture of wheat and barley flour2 whilst the agricultural labourer staved off starvation with loaves made from rye1 occasionally mixed with red wheat or barley4 ,the introduction of ,free ,trade --by no means an unmixed blessing--has changed all this2 and the working-classes1 with their wives and families1 can1 when out of the workhouse1 in the intervals between strikes1 enjoy the same quality of bread1 that cheap loaf which appears on the table of the wicked squire and the all-devouring parson4 ,in ,yorkshire1 at the present day1 almost the worst thing that can be urged against a woman is that she canna mak' a bit o' bread4 ,just look1 wrote an enthusiastic ,free ,trader1 a quarter of a century ago1 at the immense change that has latterly taken place in the food of the ,english peasantry4 ,rye bread and pease-pudding exchanged for wheaten loaves4 ,a startling change1 but not greatly different from what has occurred in ,france1 where1 with the abuses of the ,bourbon rule1 an end was put to the semi-starvation of ,french tillers of the soil4 ,black bread is now almost as much a rarity in ,france as on our side of the ,channel2 while barley in ,wales1 oats in ,scotland1 and the potato in ,ireland1 are no longer the food-staples that they were4 ,i have no wish for anything of a contentious nature to appear in this volume2 but may deliver1 with regard to the above1 the opinion that pease-pudding is by no means despicable fare1 when associated with a boiled leg of pork2 and ,i may add that too many of the ,english peasantry1 nowadays1 have been reduced1 by this same ,free ,trade1 to a diet of no bread at all1 in place of wheaten1 or any other loaves4 ,wedding breakfasts1 with the formal speeches1 and cutting of the cake1 have gone out of fashion1 and the subject of the ,british breakfast of to-day demands a new chapter4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,breakfast 7continued7 ,sit down and feed1 and welcome to our table4 ,country-house life--,an ,englishwoman at her best--,guests' comforts--,what to eat at the first meal--,a few choice recipes--,a noble grill-sauce--,the poor outcast--,appetising dishes--,hotel worries--,the old regime and the new--,no cheques2 no soles1 and whitings is hoff--,a halibut steak--,skilly and oakum--,breakfast out of the rates4 ,by far the pleasantest meal of the day at a large country-house is breakfast4 ,you will be staying there1 most likely1 an you be a man1 for hunting or shooting--it being one of the eccentric dispensations of the great goddess ,fashion that country-houses should be guestless1 and often ownerless1 during that season of the year when nature looks at her loveliest4 ,an you be a woman1 you will be staying there for the especial benefit of your daughter2 for flirting--or for the more serious purpose of riveting the fetters of the fervid youth who may have been taken captive during the ,london season--for romping1 and probably shooting and hunting1 too2 for lovely woman up-to-date takes but little account of such frivolities as ,berlin wool-work1 piano-practice1 or drives1 well wrapped-up1 in a close carriage1 to pay calls with her hostess4 ,as for going out with the guns1 or meeting the sterner sex at luncheon in the keeper's cottage1 or the specially-erected pavilion1 the darlings are not content1 nowadays1 unless they can use dapper little breech-loaders1 specially made for them1 and some of them are far from bad shots4 ,yes1 'tis a pleasant function1 breakfast at the ,castle1 the ,park1 or the ,grange4 ,but1 as observed in the last chapter1 there must be no undue punctuality1 no black looks at late arrivals1 no sarcastic allusions to late hours1 nor inane chaff from the other guests about the wine cup or the whisky cup1 which may have been drained in the smoking-room1 during the small hours4 ,her ladyship looks divine1 or at all events regal1 as she presides at what our ,american cousins would call the business end of the long table1 whilst our host1 a healthy1 jolly-looking1 hard-bitten man of fifty1 faces her4 ,his bright keen eye denotes the sportsman1 and he can shoot as straight as ever1 whilst no fence is too high1 too wide1 nor too deep for him4 ,sprinkled about1 at either side of the table1 amongst the red and black coats1 or shooting jackets of varied hues--with a vacancy here and there1 for ,algie and ,bill1 and the ,angel1 who have not yet put in appearance--are smart1 fresh-looking women1 young1 and well-preserved1 and matronly1 some in tailor-made frocks1 and some in the silks and velvets suited for those of riper age1 and some in exquisitely-fitting habits4 ,it is at the breakfast-table that the ,englishwoman can defy all foreign competition2 and you are inclined to frown1 or even say things under your breath1 when that mincing1 wicked-looking little ,marquise1 all frills1 and ribbons1 and lace1 and smiles1 and ,ess ,bouquet1 in the latest creation of the first man-milliner of ,paris1 trips into the room in slippers two sizes too small for her1 and salutes the company at large in broken ,english4 ,for the contrast is somewhat trying1 and you wonder why on earth some women will smother themselves with scents and cosmetiques1 and raddle their cheeks and wear diamonds so early in the morning2 and you lose all sense of the undoubted fascination of the ,marquise in speculating as to what manner of strong woman her femme de chambre must be who can compress a #bb-;inch waist into an #ah-;inch corset4 ,there should1 of course1 be separate tea and coffee equipments for most of the guests--at all events for the sluggards4 ,the massive silver urn certainly lends a tone to the breakfast-table1 and looks comfortable-like4 ,but it would be criminally cruel to satisfy the thirst of the multitude out of the same tea-pot or coffee-pot2 and the sluggard will not love his hostess if she pours forth husband's tea1 merely because he is a sluggard4 ,and remember that the hand which has held two by honours1 or a straight flush the night before1 is occasionally too shaky to pass tea-cups4 ,no4 ,do not spare your servants1 my lord1 or my lady4 ,your guests must be well done1 or they will miss your rocketing pheasants1 or fail to go fast enough at that brook with the rotten banks4 ,the ,english1 said an eminent alien1 have only one sauce4 ,this is a scandalous libel2 but as it was said a long time ago it doesn't matter4 ,it would be much truer to say that the ,english have only one breakfast-dish1 and its name is ,eggs and ,bacon4 ,pardon1 ,i should have written two2 and the second is ham and eggs4 ,a new-laid egg--poached1 not fried1 an ye love me1 ,o ,betsy1 best of cooks--and a rasher of home-cured hog are both excellent things in their way2 but1 like a partridge1 a mother-in-law1 and a baby1 it is quite possible to have too much of them4 ,the ,english hostess--,i do not refer to the typical her ladyship1 of whom ,i have written above1 but to the average hostess--certainly launches out occasionally in the direction of assorted fish1 kidneys1 sausages1 and chops1 but the staple food upon which we are asked to break our fast is1 undoubtedly1 eggs and bacon4 ,the great question of what to eat at the first meal depends greatly upon whether you sit down to it directly you emerge from your bedroom1 or whether you have indulged in any sort of exercise in the interim4 ,after two or three hours amateur touting on such a place as ,newmarket ,heath1 the sportsman is ready for any sort of food1 from a dish of liver and bacon to a good1 thick fat chop1 or an underdone steak4 ,i have even attacked cold stewed eels 767 upon an occasion when the pangs of hunger would have justified my eating the tom-cat1 and the landlady as well4 ,but chops and steaks are not to be commended to furnish forth the ordinary breakfast-table4 ,i am coming to the hotel breakfast presently1 so will say nothing about fried fish just yet4 ,but here follows a list of a few of what may be called ,allowable ,breakfast ,dishes ,mushrooms 7done plainly in front of the fire71 sausages 7toasted71 scrambled eggs on toast1 curried eggs1 fish balls1 kidneys1 savoury omelette4 ,porridge may be useful for growing boys and briefless barristers1 but this chapter is not written solely in their interests4 ,above all1 do not1 oh6 do not1 forget the grill1 or broil4 ,this should be the feature of the breakfast4 ,such simple recipes as those for the manufacture of fish balls or omelettes or curried eggs--though ,i shall have plenty to say about curries later on--need not be given here2 but the following1 for a grill-sauce1 will be found invaluable1 especially for the sluggard4 ,gubbins ,sauce ,the legs and wings of fowl1 turkey1 pheasant1 partridge1 or moor-hen should only be used4 ,have these scored across with a sharp knife1 and divided at the joints4 ,and when your grill is taken1 hot as hot1 but not burnt1 from the fire1 have poured over it the following sauce4 ,be very particular that your cook pours it over the grill just before it is served up4 ,and it is of the most vital importance that the sauce should be made1 and well mixed1 on a plate over hot water--for instance1 a slop-basin should be filled with boiling water and a plate placed atop4 ,melt on the plate a lump of butter the size of a large walnut4 ,stir into it1 when melted1 two teaspoonfuls of made mustard1 then a dessert-spoonful of vinegar1 half that quantity of tarragon vinegar1 and a tablespoonful of cream--,devonshire or ,english4 ,season with salt1 black pepper1 and cayenne1 according to the 7presumed7 tastes and requirements of the breakfasters4 ,let your sideboard--it is assumed that you have a sideboard--sigh and lament its hard lot1 under its load of cold joints1 game1 and pies1--,i am still harping on the country-house2 and if you have a ,york ham in cut1 it should be flanked by a ,westphalian ditto4 ,for the blend is a good one4 ,and remember that no ,york ham under #bj lb4 in weight is worth cutting4 ,you need not put it all on the board at once4 ,a capital adjunct to the breakfast-table1 too1 is a reindeer's tongue1 which1 as you see it hung up in the shops1 looks more like a policeman's truncheon in active employment than anything else2 but when well soaked and then properly treated in the boiling1 is very tasty1 and will melt like marrow in the mouth4 ,a simple1 excellent ,august breakfast can be made from a dish of freshly-caught trout1 the legs and back of a cold grouse1 which has been roasted1 not baked1 and ,a ,large ,peach4 ,but what of the wretched bachelor1 as he enters his one sitting-room1 in his humble lodging8 ,he may have heard the chimes at midnight1 in some gay and festive quarter1 or1 like some other wretched bachelors1 he may have been engaged in the composition of romances for some exacting editor1 until the smallish hours4 ,poor outcast6 what sort of appetite will he have for the rusty rasher1 or the shop egg1 the smoked haddock1 or the ,billingsgate pheasant1 which his landlady will presently send up1 together with her little account1 for his refection8 ,well1 here is a much more tasty dish than any of the above2 and if he be square with ,mrs4 ,bangham1 that lady will possibly not object to her gal cooking the different ingredients before she starts at the wash-tub4 ,but let not the wretched bachelor suffer the gal to mix them4 ,i first met this dish in ,calcutta during the two months of 7alleged7 cold weather which prevail during the year4 ,calcutta ,jumble4 ,a few fried fillets of white fish 7sole1 or plaice--sole for choice71 placed on the top of some boiled rice1 in a soup plate4 ,pour over them the yolks of two boiled eggs1 and mix in one green chili1 chopped fine4 ,salt to taste4 ,another way3 ,mix with the rice the following ingredients3-- ,the yolks of two raw eggs1 one tablespoonful anchovy sauce1 one small teaspoonful curry powder 7raw71 a sprinkling of cayenne1 a little salt1 and one green chili chopped fine4 ,each ingredient to be added separately1 and the eggs and curry powder to be stirred into the rice with a fork4 ,fillets of sole to be served atop4 ,how many cooks in this ,england of ours can cook rice properly8 ,without pausing for a reply1 ,i append the recipe1 which should be pasted on the wall of every kitchen4 ,the many cookery books which ,i have read give elaborate directions for the performance1 of what is a very simple duty4 ,here it is1 in a few lines-- ,to cook ,rice for ,curry1 etc4 ,soak a sufficiency of rice in cold water for two hours4 ,strain through a sieve1 and pop the rice into boiling water4 ,let it boil--gallop is1 ,i believe1 the word used in most kitchens--for not quite ten minutes 7or until the rice is tender71 then strain off the water through a sieve1 and dash a little cold water over the rice1 to separate the grains4 ,here is another most appetising breakfast dish for the springtime-- ,asparagus with ,eggs4 ,cut up two dozen 7or so7 heads of cooked asparagus into small pieces1 and mix in a stewpan with the well-beaten yolks of two raw eggs4 ,flavour with pepper and salt1 and stir freely4 ,add a piece of butter the size of a walnut 7one of these should be kept in every kitchen as a pattern71 and keep on stirring for a couple of minutes or so4 ,serve on delicately-toasted bread4 ,an ,hotel ,breakfast4 ,what memories do these words conjure up of a snug coffee-room1 hung with hunting prints1 and portraits of ,derby winners1 and churches1 and well-hung game2 with its oak panellings1 easy arm-chairs1 blazing fire1 snowy naperies1 and bright silver4 ,the cheery host1 with well-lined paunch1 and fat1 wheezy voice1 which wishes you good-morning1 and hopes you have passed a comfortable night between the lavender-scented sheets4 ,the fatherly interest which ,william1 the grey-headed waiter1 takes in you--stranger or habitu--and the more than fatherly interest which you take in the good cheer1 from home-made sassingers to new-laid eggs1 and heather honey1 not forgetting a slice out of the mammoth ,york ham1 beneath whose weight the old sideboard absolutely grunts4 ,heigho6 we1 or they1 have changed all that4 ,the poet who found his warmest welcome in an inn was1 naturally enough1 writing of his own time4 ,i don't like fault-finding1 but must needs declare that the warmest part of an inn welcome to be found nowadays is the bill4 ,as long as you pay it 7or have plenty of luggage to leave behind in default71 and make yourself agreeable to the fair and haughty bookkeeper 7if it's a she7 who allots you your bedroom1 and bullies the page-boy1 nobody in the modern inn cares particularly what becomes of you4 ,you lose your individuality1 and become ,number #cbe4 ,instead of welcome1 distrust lurks1 large1 on the very threshold4 ,no ,cheques ,accepted is frequently the first announcement to catch the eye of the incoming guest2 and although you cannot help admiring the marble pillars1 the oak carving1 the gilding1 the mirrors1 and the electric light1 an uncomfortable feeling comes over you at meal times1 to the effect that the cost of the decorations1 or much of it1 is taken out of the food4 ,waiter1 you ask1 as soon as your eyes and ears get accustomed to the incessant bustle of the coffee-room1 and your nostrils to the savour of last night's soup1 what can ,i have for breakfast8 ,what would you like1 sir8 ,i should like a grilled sole1 to begin with4 ,very sorry1 sir1 soles is hoff--get you a nice chop or steak4 ,can't manage either so early in the day4 ,got any whitings8 ,afraid we're out of whitings1 sir1 but ,i'll see4 ,eventually1 after suggesting sundry delicacies1 all of which are either hoff1 or unknown to the waiter1 you settle down to the consumption of two fried and shrivelled shop eggs1 on an island of ,chicago ham1 floating in an gean ,sea of grease and hot water2 whilst a half quartern loaf1 a cruet-stand the size of a cathedral1 a rackful of toast of the ,zebra brand1 and about two gallons of 7alleged7 coffee1 are dumped down in succession in front of you4 ,there are1 of course1 some hostelries where they do you better than this1 but my experience of hotel breakfasts at this end of the nineteenth century has not been encouraging1 either to appetite or temper2 and ,i do vow and protest that the above picture is not too highly coloured4 ,the toothsome1 necessary bloater is not often to be met with on the hotel's bill-of-fare2 but1 if soft roed--use no other--it will repay perusal4 ,toast it in a ,dutch oven in front of a clear fire1 and just before done split it up the back1 and put a piece of butter on it4 ,the roe should be well plumped1 and of the consistency of ,devonshire cream4 ,a grilled sole for breakfast is preferable to a fried one1 principally because it is by no means impossible that the fried sole be second-hand1 or as the ,french call it rchauff4 ,and why1 unless directions to the contrary be given1 is the modest whiting invariably placed1 tail in mouth1 on the frying pan8 ,a grilled whiting--assassinate your cook if she 7or he7 scorches it--is one of the noblest works of the kitchen1 and its exterior should be of a golden brown colour4 ,do not forget to order sausages for breakfast if you are staying at ,newmarket2 there is less bread in them than in the ,metropolitan brand4 ,and when in ,lincoln attempt a ,halibut ,steak1 of which you may not have previously heard4 ,the halibut should1 previous to grilling or frying in salad oil1 be placed on a shallow dish and sprinkled with salt4 ,then the dish should be half filled with water1 which must not cover the salt4 ,leave the fish to soak for an hour1 then cut into slices1 nearly an inch thick1 without removing the skin4 ,sprinkle some lemon juice and cayenne over the steaks before serving4 ,if you wish to preserve an even mind1 and be at peace with the world1 a visit to ,the ,hotel ,parish is not to be recommended4 ,the ,irish stew at dinner is not bad in its way1 though coarse1 and too liberally endowed with fat4 ,but the breakfasts6 ,boiled oatmeal and water1 with salt in the mess1 and a chunk of stale brown bread to eat therewith1 do not constitute an altogether satisfactory meal1 the first thing in the morning2 and it is hardly calculated to inspire him with much pride in his work1 when the guest is placed subsequently before his task of unbroken flints or tarred rope4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,breakfast 7continued7 ,there's nought in the ,highlands but syboes and leeks1 ,and lang-leggit callants gaun wanting the breeks4 ,bonnie ,scotland--,parritch an' cream--,fin'an haddies--,a knife on the ocean wave-- la ,franais--,in the gorgeous ,east--,chota hazri--,english as she is spoke--,dk bungalow fare--,some quaint dishes--,breakfast with my tutor--,a ,don's absence of mind4 ,for a warm welcome commend me to ,bonnie ,scotland4 ,though hard of head and sae fu' o' learning that they are owre deeficult to conveence1 ye ken1 these rugged ,caledonians be tender of heart1 and philanthropic to a degree4 ,hech1 sirs6 but 'tis the braw time ye'll hae1 gin ye trapese the ,highlands1 an' the ,lowlands as well for the matter o' that--in search o' guid refreshment for body an' soul4 ,even that surly lexicographer1 ,doctor ,samuel ,johnson 7who1 by the way1 claimed the same city for his birthplace as does the writer71 who could not be induced to recognise the merits of ,scotch scenery1 and preferred ,fleet ,street to the ,trossachs1 extolled the luxury of a ,scotch breakfast above that of all other countries4 ,and ,sir ,walter ,scott1 who never enthused much about meat and drink1 is responsible in ,waverley for a passage calculated to make the mouths of most people water3 ,he found ,miss ,bradwardine presiding over the tea and coffee1 the table loaded with warm bread1 both of flour1 oatmeal1 and barley meal1 in the shape of loaves1 cakes1 biscuits1 and other varieties1 together with eggs1 reindeer ham1 mutton and beef ditto1 smoked salmon1 and many other delicacies4 ,a mess of oatmeal porridge1 flanked by a silver jug which held an equal mixture of cream and buttermilk1 was placed for the ,baron's share of the repast4 ,and1 as ,mr4 ,samuel ,weller would have observed1 a wery good idea of a breakfast1 too4 ,a beef-ham sounds like a large order for breakfast1 even when we come to consider that the ,scotch beastie1 in ,sir ,walter ,scott's time1 was wanting in beam and stature4 ,i have seen and partaken of a ham cut from a ,yorkshire pig1 and weighing #eb lbs42 but even a ,scotch beef-ham must have topped that weight considerably4 ,fortunately the sideboards of those times were substantial of build4 ,missing from the above bill-of-fare is the haddock1 ,the ,fin'an ,haddie1 a bird which at that period had probably not been invented4 ,but the modern ,scottish breakfast-table is not properly furnished without it4 ,the genuine ,fin'an is known by its appetising savour and by its colour--a creamy yellow1 which is totally distinct from the ,vandyke browny hue of the haddock which is creosoted in the neighbourhood of the ,blackfriars ,road1 ,london1 ,s4,e4 ,strip off the skin1 says the recipe in one cookery book1 and broil before the fire or over a quick clear one4 ,another way--my way--is not to strip off the skin and to steam your haddies4 ,place them in a dish which has been previously heated4 ,throw boiling water on them1 and cover closely with a plate2 place on a hot stove1 and in from #aj to #ae minutes the ,fin'ans will be accomplished4 ,drain1 and serve hot as hot1 buttered1 with a sprinkling of cayenne1 and1 maybe1 a dash of ,worcester sauce4 ,salmon is naturally a welcome guest at the table of the land of his birth1 served fresh when in season1 and smoked or kippered at all times4 ,a ,salmon ,steak with the curd between the flakes1 placed within a coat of virgin-white paper 7oiled7 and grilled for #ae minutes or so1 is an excellent breakfast dish4 ,a fry of small troutlets1 a ditto of the deer's interior economy--,mem4 ,when up at the death of a hunted stag1 always beg or annex a portion of his liver--are also common dishes at the first meal served by the gudewife2 and ,i once met a cold haggis at #i4cj ,a4,m4 ,but this1 ,i rather fancy1 was a wee bit joke at my expense4 ,anyhow ,i shall have plenty to say about the great chieftain o' the puddin' race in a later chapter4 ,off to ,gold-land6 ,those that go down to the sea in ships1 and can summon up sufficient presence of mind to go down to the saloon at meal times1 have far from a bad time of it4 ,living was certainly better on the ocean wave in the days when livestock was kept on board1 and slaughtered as required2 for the effect of keeping beef1 pork1 and mutton in a refrigerating chamber for any length of time is to destroy the flavour1 and to render beef indistinguishable from the flesh of the hog1 and mutton as tasteless as infantine pap4 ,but the ship's galley does its little utmost2 and the saloon passenger1 on his way to the other side of the equator1 may regale himself with such a breakfast as the following1 which is taken from the steward's book of a vessel belonging to the ,union ,line3-- ,porridge1 fillets of haddock with fine herbs1 mutton chops and chip potatoes1 savoury omelet1 bacon on toast1 minced collops1 curry and rice1 fruit1 rolls1 toast1 etc41 tea and coffee4 ,cannot my readers imagine a steward entering the state-room of the voyager who has succumbed to the wiles and eccentricities of the ,bay of ,biscay1 with the observation3 ,won't you get up to breakfast1 sir8--,i've reserved a beautiful fat chop1 with chips1 o' purpose for you1 sir4 ,and the lot of the third-class passenger who is conveyed from his native land to the ,cape of ,good ,hope1 for what ,mr4 ,montague ,tigg would have called the ridiculous sum of #af3 #afs41 is no such hard one1 seeing that he is allotted a bunk in a compact1 though comfortable cabin1 and may break his fast on the following substantial meal3-- ,porridge1 ,yarmouth bloaters1 potatoes1 ,american hash1 grilled mutton1 bread and butter1 tea or coffee4 ,an ,american breakfast is as variegated 7and ,i fear ,i must add1 as indigestible7 as a ,scotch one2 and included in the bill of fare are as many1 or more1 varieties of bread and cake as are to be found in the land o' shortbread4 ,the writer has1 in ,new ,york1 started the morning meal with oysters1 run the gamut of fish1 flesh1 and fowl1 and wound up with buckwheat cakes1 which are brought on in relays1 buttered and smoking hot1 and can be eaten with or without golden syrup4 ,but1 as business begins early in ,new ,york and other large cities1 scant attention is paid to the first meal by the merchant and the speculator1 who are wont to gallop through breakfast and luncheon1 and to put in their best work at dinner4 ,a ,mediterranean ,breakfast is not lacking in poetry2 and the jaded denizen of ,malta can enjoy red mullet 7the woodcock of the sea7 freshly taken from the tideless ocean1 and strawberries in perfection1 at his first meal1 whilst seated1 maybe1 next to some dreamy-eyed houri1 who coos soft nothings into his ear1 at intervals4 ,the wines of ,italy go best with this sort of repast1 which is generally eaten with spoons4 ,in fair ,france1 breakfast1 or the djener la fourchette1 is not served until noon1 or thereabouts4 ,coffee or chocolate1 with fancy bread and butter1 is on hand as soon as you wake2 and ,i have heard that for the roisterer and the p'tit crev there be such liquors as cognac1 curaoa1 and chartreuse verte provided at the first meal1 so that nerves can be strung together and headaches alleviated before the associated breakfast at midday4 ,in the country1 at the chteau of ,monsieur et ,madame1 the groom-of-the-chambers1 or matre d'htel1 as he is designated1 knocks at your bedroom door at about #h4cj4 ,who's there8 ,good-morning1 ,m'sieu4 ,will ,m'sieu partake of the chocolat1 or of the caf-au-lait1 or of the tea8 ,upon ordinary occasions1 ,m'sieu will partake of the chocolat--if he be of ,french extraction2 whilst the ,english visitor will partake of the caf-au-lait--tea-making in ,france being still in its infancy4 ,and if ,m'sieu has gazed too long on the wine of the country1 overnight1 he will occasionally--reprobate that he is--partake instead of the vieux cognac1 diluted from the syphon4 ,and ,m'sieu never sees his host or hostess till the assembly sounds for the midday meal4 ,i have alluded1 just above1 to ,french tea-making4 ,there was a time when tea1 with our lively neighbours1 was as scarce a commodity as snakes in ,iceland or rum punch in ,holloway ,castle4 ,then the thin end of the wedge was introduced1 and the ,english visitor was invited to partake of a cup of what was called 7by courtesy7 th1 which had been concocted expressly for her or him4 ,and tea la ,franaise used to be made somewhat after this fashion4 ,the cup was half-filled with milk1 sugar discrtion being added4 ,a little silver sieve was next placed over the cup1 and from a jug sufficient hot water1 in which had been previously left to soak some half-dozen leaf-fragments of green tea1 to fill the cup1 was poured forth4 ,in fact the visitor was invited to drink a very nasty compound indeed1 something like the wish tea with which the school-mistress used to regale her victims--milk and water1 and wish-you-may-get tea6 ,but they have changed all that across the ,channel1 and five o'clock tea is one of the most fashionable functions of the day1 with the beau monde2 a favourite invitation of the society belle of the fin de sicle being3 ,voulex-vous fivoclocquer avec moi8 ,the djener usually begins with a consomm1 a thin1 clear1 soup1 not quite adapted to stave off the pangs of hunger by itself1 but grateful enough by way of a commencement4 ,then follows an array of dishes containing fish and fowl of sorts1 with the inevitable ctelettes la somebody-or-other1 not forgetting an omelette--a mess which the ,french cook alone knows how to concoct to perfection4 ,the meal is usually washed down with some sort of claret2 and a subsequent caf1 with the accustomed chasse2 whilst the welcome cigarette is not defended1 even in the mansions of the great4 ,there is more than one way of making coffee1 that of the lodging-house general1 and of the street-stall dispenser1 during the small hours1 being amongst the least commendable4 ,without posing as an infallible manufacturer of the refreshing 7though indigestible1 to many people7 beverage1 ,i would urge that it be made from freshly-roasted seed1 ground just before wanted4 ,then heat the ground coffee in the oven1 and place upon the perforated bottom of the upper compartment of a cafetire1 put the strainer on it1 and pour in boiling water1 gradually4 ,the ,duke in ,genevive de ,brabant used to warble as part of a song in praise of tea-- ,and 'tis also most important ,that you should not spare the tea4 ,so is it of equal importance that you should not spare the coffee4 ,there are more elaborate ways of making coffee2 but none that the writer has tried are in front of the old cafetire1 if the simple directions given above be carried out in their entirety4 ,as in ,france1 sojourners 7for their sins7 in the burning plains of ,ind have their first breakfast1 or chota hazri1 at an early hour1 whilst the breakfast proper--usually described in ,lower ,bengal1 ,madras1 and ,bombay as tiffin--comes later on4 ,for ,chota ,hazri 7literally little breakfast7--which is served either at the ,mess-house1 the public ,bath1 or in one's own bungalow1 beneath the verandah--poached eggs on toast are de rigueur1 whilst ,i have met such additions as unda ishcamble 7scrambled eggs71 potato cake1 and 7naughty1 naughty67 anchovy toast4 ,tea or coffee are always drunk with this meal4 ,always1 have ,i written8 ,alas6 ,in my mind's eye ,i can see the poor ,indian vainly trying to stop the too-free flow of the ,belati pani 7literally ,europe water7 by thrusting a dusky thumb into the neck of the just-opened bottle1 and in my mind's ear can ,i catch the blasphemous observation of the subaltern as he remarks to his slave that he does not require1 in his morning's livener1 the additional flavour of ,mahommedan flesh1 and the hubble-bubble pipe1 the tobacco in which may have been stirred by the same thumb that morning4 ,coffee shop is a favourite function1 during the march of a regiment in ,india1 at least it used to be in the olden time1 before troops were conveyed by railway4 ,dhoolies 7roughly made palanquins7 laden with meat and drink were sent on half way1 overnight2 and grateful indeed was the cup of tea1 or coffee1 or the peg which was poured forth for the weary warrior who had been tramping it or in the saddle since #b ,a4,m4 or some such unearthly hour1 in order that the column might reach the new camping-ground before the sun was high in the heavens4 ,it was at coffee-shop that chaff reigned supreme1 and speculations as to what the shooting would be like at the next place were indulged in4 ,and when that shooting was likely to take the form of long men1 armed with long guns1 and long knives1 the viands1 which consisted for the most part of toast1 biscuits1 poached eggs1 and unda bakum 7eggs and bacon71 were devoured with appetites all the keener for the prospect in view4 ,it is in troublous times1 be it further observed1 that the ,hindustan khit is seen at his best4 ,on the field of battle itself ,i have known coffee and boiled eggs--or even a grilled fowl--produced by the fearless and devoted nokhur1 from1 apparently1 nowhere at all4 ,at the ,indian breakfast proper1 all sorts of viands are consumed2 from the curried prawns and ,europe provisions 7which arrive in an hermetically sealed condition per s4s4 ,nomattawot71 to the rooster who heralds your arrival at the dak bungalow1 with much crowing1 and who within half an hour of your advent has been successively chased into a corner1 beheaded1 plucked1 and served up for your refection in a scorched state4 ,i have breakfasted off such assorted food as curried locusts1 boiled leg of mutton1 fried snipe1 ,europe sausages1 ,iron ishtoo 7,irish stew71 vilolif 7veal olives1 and more correctly a dinner dish71 kidney toast--chopped sheep's kidneys1 highly seasoned with pepper1 lime-juice1 and ,worcester sauce1 very appetising--parrot pie1 eggs and bacon1 omelette 7which might also have been used to patch ammunition boots with71 sardines1 fried fish 7mind the bones of the ,asiatic fish71 bifishtake 7beef steak71 goat chops1 curries of all sorts1 hashed venison1 and roast peafowl1 ditto quail1 ditto pretty nearly everything that flies1 cold buffalo hump1 grilled sheep's tail 7a bit bilious71 hermetically-sealed herring1 turtle fins1 ,guava jelly1 preserved mango1 home-made cake1 and many other things which have escaped memory4 ,i am coming to the curry part of the entertainment later on in the volume1 but may remark that it is preferable when eaten in the middle of the day4 ,my own experience was that few people touched curry when served in its normal place at dinner--as a course of itself--just before the sweets4 ,breakfast with my tutor6 ,what happy memories of boyhood do not the words conjure up1 of the usually stern1 unbending preceptor pouring out the coffee1 and helping the sausages and mashed potatoes--we always had what is now known as saus and mash at my tutor's--and the fatherly air with which he would remind the juvenile glutton1 who had seated himself just opposite the apricot jam1 and was improving the occasion1 that eleven o'clock school would be in full swing in half an hour1 and that the brain 7and1 by process of reasoning1 the stomach7 could not be in too good working-order for the fervid young student of ,herodotus4 ,the ordinary breakfast of the lower boy at ,eton used to be of a very uncertain pattern4 ,indeed1 what with fagging1 the preparation of his lord-and-master's breakfast1 the preparation of pupil-room work1 and agile and acute scouts ever on the alert to pilfer his roll and pat of butter1 that boy was lucky if he got any breakfast at all4 ,if he possessed capital1 or credit1 he might certainly stave off starvation at ,brown's1 with buttered buns and pickled salmon2 or at ,webber's1 or the ,wall1 with three-cornered jam tarts1 or a strawberry mess2 but ,smith minor1 and ,jones minimus as often as not1 went breakfastless to second school4 ,at the ,university1 breakfast with the ,head or any other ,don was a rather solemn function4 ,the table well and plentifully laid1 and the host hospitality itself1 but occasionally1 nay1 frequently1 occupied with other thoughts4 ,a departed friend used to tell a story of a breakfast of this description4 ,he was shaken warmly by the hand by his host1 who afterwards lapsed into silence4 ,my friend1 to force the running1 ventured on the observation-- ,it's a remarkably fine morning1 sir1 is it not8 ,no reply came4 ,in fact1 the great man's thoughts were so preoccupied with ,greek roots1 and other defunct horrors1 that he spoke not a word during breakfast4 ,but when1 an hour or so afterwards1 the time came for his guest to take leave1 the ,head shook him by the hand warmly once more1 and remarked abstractedly-- ,d'you know1 ,mr4 ,johnson1 ,i don't think that was a particularly original remark of yours8 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,luncheon ',tis a custom ,more honoured in the breach than the observance4 ,why lunch8--,sir ,henry ,thompson on overdoing it--,the children's dinner--,city lunches--,ye ,olde ,cheshyre ,cheese--,doctor ,johnson--,ye pudding--,a great fall in food--,a snipe pudding--,skirt1 not rump steak--,lancashire hot pot--,a ,cape brady4 ',more honoured in the breach1' do you say1 ,mr4 ,author8 ,i fancy ,i hear some reader inquire4 ,are these your sentiments8 ,do you really mean them8 ,well1 perhaps1 they ought to be qualified4 ,unless a man breakfast very early1 and dine very late1 he cannot do himself much good by eating a square meal at #a4cj or #b4j ,p4,m4 ,there can be no question but that whilst thousands of the lieges--despite soup-kitchens1 workhouses1 and gaols--perish of absolute starvation1 as many of their more fortunate brethren perish1 in the course of time1 from gluttony1 from falling down 7sometimes literally7 and worshipping the ,belly-god4 ,years ago ,sir ,henry ,thompson observed to a friend of the writer's3 ,most men who seek my advice are suffering under one of two great evils--eating too much good food1 or drinking too much bad liquor2 and occasionally they suffer under both evils4 ,this luncheon1 writes ,oliver ,wendell ,holmes1 is a very convenient affair2 it does not require any special dress2 it is informal2 and can be light or heavy as one chooses4 ,the ,american--the male ,american at all events--takes far more count of luncheon than of breakfast4 ,but in many cases luncheon and early dinner are synonymous terms4 ,take the family luncheon1 for instance1 of the middle classes1 where mother1 governess1 and little ones all assemble in front of the roast and boiled1 at the principal meal of the day1 and the more or less snowy tablecloth is duly anointed with gravy by poor baby1 in her high chair1 and the youngest but one is slapped at intervals by his instructress1 for using his knife for the peas--at the risk of enlarging his mouth--or for swallowing the stones of the cherries which have been dealt him1 or her1 from the tart4 ,this is not the sort of meal for the male friend of the family to drop in at1 if he value the lapels of his new frock-coat1 and be given to blushing4 ,for children have not only an evil habit of pawing the visitor with jammy fingers1 but occasionally narrate somewhat risky anecdotes4 ,and a child's ideas of the ,christian religion1 nay1 of the ,creator himself1 are occasionally more quaint than reverent4 ,ma1 dear1 once lisped a sweet little thing of six1 what doth ,god have for hith dinner8 ,s-sh-sh1 my child6 replied the horrified mother1 you must not ask such dreadful questions4 ,god doesn't want any dinner1 remember that4 ,oh-h-h6 continued the unabashed and dissatisfied enfant terrible4 ,and1 after a pause1 then ,i thuppose he hath an egg with hith tea4 ,in a country-house1 of course1 but few of the male guests turn up at the domestic luncheon1 being otherwise engaged in killing something1 or in trying to kill something1 or in that sport which is but partially understood out of ,great ,britain--the pursuit of an evil-savoured animal who is practically worthless to civilisation after his capture and death4 ,it is in the ,city that vile man1 perhaps1 puts in his best work as an eater of luncheons4 ,some city men there be1 of course--poor1 wretched1 half-starved clerks1 whose state nobody ever seems to attempt to ameliorate--whose midday refections are not such as would have earned a meed of commendation from the late ,vitellius1 or from the late ,colonel ,north4 ,for said refections but seldom consist of more important items than a thick slice of bread and a stale bloater2 or possibly a home-made sandwich of bread and ,dutch cheese--the whole washed down with a tumbler of milk1 or more often a tumbler of the fluid supplied by the ,new ,river ,company4 ,during the winter months a pennyworth of roasted chestnuts supplies a filling1 though indigestible meal to many a man whose employer is swilling turtle at ,birch's or at the big house in ,leadenhall ,street1 and who is compelled1 by the exigencies of custom1 to wear a decent black coat and some sort of tall hat when on his way to and from business4 ,but the more fortunate citizens--how do they do themselves at luncheon8 ,for some there is the cheap soup-house1 or the chop-and-steak house reviled of ,dickens1 and but little changed since the time of the great novelist4 ,then1 for the gilt-edged division there is ,birch's1 the little green house which1 although now run by those eminent caterers1 ,messrs4 ,ring and ,brymer1 is still known by the name of the old ,alderman who deserved so well of his fellow citizens1 and who1 whilst a cordon bleu of some celebrity1 had also a pretty taste as a playwright4 ,the old house has not changed one jot1 either in appearance1 customs1 or fare4 ,at the little counter on the ground floor may be obtained the same cheesecakes1 tartlets1 baked custards1 and calf's-foot jellies which delighted our grandfathers1 and the same brand of ,scottish whisky4 ,upstairs1 in the soup-rooms1 some of the tables are covered with damask tablecloths1 whilst at others a small square of napery but partially obscures the view of the well-polished mahogany4 ,turtle ,soup is still served on silver plates1 whilst the cheaper juices of the bullock1 the calf1 and the pea1 with the usual trimmings1 repose temporarily on china or earthenware4 ,pts1 whether of oyster1 lobster1 chicken1 or veal-and-ham1 are still in favour with habitu and chance customer alike1 and no wonder1 for these are something like pts4 ,the filling is kept hot like the soups1 in huge stewpans1 on the range1 and when required is ladled out into a plate1 and furnished with top and bottom crust--and such crust1 flaky and light to a degree2 and how different to the confectioner's or railway-refreshment pt1 which1 when an orifice be made in the covering with a pickaxe1 reveals nothing more appetising than what appear to be four small cubes of frost-bitten india-rubber1 with a portion or two of candle end4 ,a more advanced meal is served in ,leadenhall ,street1 at ,the ,ship and ,turtle1 said to be the oldest tavern in ,london1 and which has been more than once swept and garnished1 and reformed altogether1 since its establishment during the reign of ,king ,richard ,,ii4 ,but they could have known but little about the superior advantages offered by the turtle as a life-sustainer1 in those days2 whereas at the present day some hundreds of the succulent reptiles die the death on the premises1 within a month1 in order that city companies1 and stockbrokers1 and merchants of sorts1 and mining millionaires1 and bicycle makers1 and other estimable people1 may dine and lunch4 ,then there are the numerous clubs1 not forgetting one almost at the very door of ,the ,house1 where the #bjjj odd 7some of them very odd7 members are regaled on the fat of the land in general1 and of the turtle in particular1 day by day2 and that mammoth underground palace the ,palmerston1 where any kind of banquet can be served up at a few minutes' notice1 and where special ,greek dishes are provided for the gamblers in wheat and other cereals1 at the adjacent ,baltic4 ,there be also other eating-houses1 far too numerous to mention1 but most of them worth a visit4 ,a filling sort of luncheon is a portion of a ,cheshire ,cheese ,pudding4 ,a little way up a gloomy court on the north side of ,fleet ,street--a neighbourhood which reeks of printers' ink1 bookmakers' runners1 tipsters1 habitual borrowers of small pieces of silver1 and that warm smell of burning paste and molten lead which indicates the foundry in a printing works--is situated this ancient hostelry4 ,it is claimed for the ,cheese that it was the tavern most frequented by ,dr4 ,samuel ,johnson4 ,mr4 ,c4 ,redding1 in his ,fifty ,years' ,recollections1 ,literary and ,personal1 published in #aheh1 says3 ,i often dined at the ,cheshire ,cheese4 ,johnson and his friends1 ,i was informed1 used to do the same1 and ,i was told ,i should see individuals who had met them there4 ,this ,i found to be correct4 ,the company was more select than in later times1 but there are ,fleet ,street tradesmen who well remembered both ,johnson and ,goldsmith in this place of entertainment4 ,few ,americans who visit our metropolis go away without making a pilgrimage to this ancient hostelry1 where1 upstairs1 ,doctor ,johnson's ,chair is on view2 and many visitors carry away mementoes of the house1 in the shape of pewter measures1 the oaken platters upon which these are placed1 and even samples of the long churchwarden pipes1 smoked by habitus after their evening chops or steaks4 ,ye ,pudding1 which is served on ,wednesdays and ,saturdays1 at #a4cj and #f4j1 is a formidable-looking object1 and its savour reaches even into the uttermost parts of ,great ,grub ,street4 ,as large1 more or less1 as the dome of ,st4 ,paul's1 that pudding is stuffed with steak1 kidney1 oysters1 mushrooms1 and larks4 ,the irreverent call these last named sparrows1 but we know better4 ,this pudding takes 7on dit7 #ag hours in the boiling1 and the bottom crust would have delighted the hearts of ,johnson1 ,boswell1 and ,co41 in whose days the savoury dish was not4 ,the writer once witnessed a catastrophe at the ,cheshire ,cheese1 compared to which the burning of ,moscow or the bombardment of ,alexandria were mere trifles4 #a4cj on ,saturday afternoon had arrived1 and the oaken benches in the refectory were filled to repletion with expectant pudding-eaters4 ,burgesses of the ,city of ,london were there--good1 warm1 round-bellied men1 with plough-boys' appetites--and journalists1 and advertising agents1 and resting actors1 and magistrates' clerks1 and barristers from the ,temple1 and well-to-do tradesmen4 ,sherry and gin and bitters and other adventitious aids 787 to appetite had been done justice to1 and the arrival of the procession--it takes three men and a boy to carry the pice de rsistance from the kitchen to the dining-room--was anxiously awaited4 ,and then1 of a sudden we heard a loud crash6 followed by a feminine shriek1 and an unwhispered ,saxon oath4 ,tom the waiter had slipped1 released his hold1 and the pudding had fallen downstairs6 ,it was a sight ever to be remembered--steak1 larks1 oysters1 delicious gravy1 running in a torrent into ,wine ,office ,court4 ,the expectant diners 7many of them lunchers7 stood up and gazed upon the wreck of their hopes1 and then filed1 silently and sadly1 outside4 ,such a catastrophe had not been known in ,brainland since the ,great ,fire4 ,puddings of all sorts are1 in fact1 favourite autumn and winter luncheon dishes in ,london1 and the man who can come twice at such a dream as the following1 between the hours of one and three1 can hardly be in devouring trim for his evening meal till very late4 ,it is a ,snipe ,pudding4 ,a thin slice of beef-skirt1#b seasoned with pepper and salt1 at the bottom of the basin2 then three snipes beheaded and befooted1 and with gizzards extracted4 ,leave the liver and heart in1 an you value your life4 ,cover up with paste1 and boil 7or steam7 for two-and-a-half hours4 ,for stockbrokers and bookmakers1 mushrooms and truffles are sometimes placed within this pudding2 but it is better without--according to the writer's notion4 ,most of the fowls of the air may be treated in the same way4 ,and when eating cold grouse for luncheon try 7if you can get it7 a fruit salad therewith4 ,you will find preserved peaches1 apricots1 and cherries in syrup1 harmonise well with cold brown game4 ,lancashire ,hot-,pot is a savoury dish indeed2 but ,i know of but one eating-house in ,london where you can get anything like it4 ,here is the recipe-- ,place a layer of mutton cutlets1 with most of the fat and tails trimmed off1 at the bottom of a deep earthenware stewpan4 ,then a layer of chopped sheep's kidneys1 an onion cut into thin slices1 half-a-dozen oysters1 and some sliced potatoes4 ,sprinkle over these a little salt and pepper and a teaspoonful of curry powder4 ,then start again with cutlets1 and keep on adding layers of the different ingredients until the dish be full4 ,whole potatoes atop of all1 and pour in the oyster liquor and some good gravy4 ,more gravy just before the dish is ready to serve4 ,not too fierce an oven1 just fierce enough to brown the top potatoes4 ,in making this succulent concoction you can add to1 or substitute for1 the mutton cutlets pretty nearly any sort of flesh or fowl4 ,i have met rabbit1 goose1 larks1 turkey1 and 7frequently7 beef therein2 but1 believe me1 the simple1 harmless1 necessary1 toothsome cutlet makes the best lining4 ,in the ,cape ,colony1 and even as high up as ,rhodesia1 ,i have met with a dish called a ,brady1 which is worthy of mention here4 ,it is made in the same way as the familiar ,irish stew2 but instead of potatoes tomatoes are used4 ,,chapter ,v ,,luncheon 7continued7 ,he couldn't hit a haystack6 ,shooting luncheons--,cold tea and a crust--,clear turtle--,such larks6--,jugged duck and oysters--,woodcock pie--,hunting luncheons--,pie crusts--,the true ,yorkshire pie--,race-course luncheons--,suggestions to caterers--,the ,jolly ,sand boys stew--,various recipes--,a race-course sandwich--,angels' pie--,suffolk pride--,devilled larks--,a light lunch in the ,himalayas4 ,there is no meal which has become more expanded than a shooting luncheon4 ,a crust of bread with cheese1 or a few biscuits1 and a flask of sherry sufficed for our forebears1 who1 despite inferior weapons and ammunition1 managed to bring 'em down quite as effectually as do the shootists of this period4 ,most certainly and decidedly1 a heavy luncheon is a mistake if you want to shoot clean afterwards4 ,and bear this in mind1 all ye ,johnnies who rail at your host's champagne and turtle1 after luncheon1 in a comfortable pavilion in the midst of a pheasant battue1 and whose very beaters would turn up their noses at a pork pie and a glass of old ale1 that there is nothing so good to shoot upon as cold tea1 unless it be cold coffee4 ,i have tried both1 and for a shooting luncheon par excellence commend me to a crust and a pint of cold tea1 eaten whilst sitting beneath the shelter of an unpleached hedge1 against the formal spread which commences with a consomm1 and finishes with guinea peaches1 and liqueurs of rare curaoa4 ,of course1 it is assumed that the shooter wishes to make a bag4 ,but as1 fortunately for trade1 everybody does not share my views1 it will be as well to append a few dishes suitable to a scratch meal of this sort4 ,first of all let it be said that a ,roast ,loin of ,pork1 washed down with sweet champagne1 is not altogether to be commended4 ,i have nothing to urge against roast pork1 on ordinary occasions1 or champagne either2 but a woodcock takes a lot of hitting4 ,such a pudding as was sketched in the preceding chapter is allowable1 as is also the ,lancashire ,hot-,pot4 ,shepherd's ,pie1 i4e4 minced meat beneath a mattress of mashed potatoes1 with lots of gravy in the dish1 baked1 is an economical dish1 but a tasty one2 and ,i have never known much left for the beaters4 ,,rabbit ,,pie1 or ,pudding1 will stop a gap most effectually1 and ,plover ,pudding --the very name brings water to the lips--is entitled to the highest commendation4 ,this is the favourite dish at the shooting luncheons of a well-known ,royal ,duke1 and when upon one occasion the discovery was made that through some misunderstanding said pudding had been devoured to the very bones1 by the loaders1 the--well1 the band played1 as they say out ,west4 ,and a stirring tune did that band play too4 ,such ,larks6 ,stuff a dozen larks with a force-meat made from their own livers chopped1 a little shallot1 parsley1 yolk of egg1 salt1 bread crumbs1 and one green chili chopped and divided amongst the twelve4 ,brown in a stewpan1 and then stew gently in a good gravy to which has been added a glass of burgundy4 ,this is a plt fit for an emperor1 and there will be no subsequent danger of his hitting a beater or a dog4 ,another dainty of home invention is ,jugged ,duck with ,oysters4 ,cut the fleshy parts of your waddler into neat joints1 and having browned them place in a jar with nine oysters and some good gravy partly made from the giblets4 ,close the mouth of the jar1 and stand it in boiling water for rather more than an hour4 ,add the strained liquor of the oysters and a little more gravy1 and turn the concoction into a deep silver dish with a spirit lamp beneath4 ,wild duck can be jugged in the same way1 but without the addition of the bivalves2 and a mixture of port wine and ,worcester sauce should be poured in1 with a squeeze of lemon juice and cayenne1 just before serving4 ,another dish which will be found grateful and comforting is an old grouse--the older the tastier4 ,stuff him with a ,spanish onion1 add a little gravy and seasoning1 and stew him till the flesh leaves the bones4 ,all these stews1 or jugs should be served on dishes kept hot by lighted spirit beneath them4 ,this is most important4 ,a ,woodcock ,pie will be found extremely palatable at any shooting luncheon1 although more frequently to be met with on the sideboards of the great and wealthy4 ,in fact1 at ,christmas time1 'tis a pie which is specially concocted in the royal kitchen at ,windsor ,castle1 to adorn ,her ,most ,gracious ,majesty's board at ,osborne1 together with the time-honoured baron of specially fed beef4 ,this last named joint hardly meets my views as part of a breakfast menu2 but here is the recipe for the woodcock pie4 ,bone four woodcocks--,i don't mean take them off the hooks when the gentleman is not in his shop1 but tell your cook to take the bones out of one you've shot yourself--put bones and trimmings into a saucepan with one shallot1 one small onion1 and a sprig of thyme1 cover them with some good stock1 and let this gravy simmer awhile4 ,take the gizzards away from the heart and liver1 pound1 and mix these with some good veal force-meat4 ,place the woodcocks1 skin downwards1 on a board2 spread over each two layers of force-meat1 with a layer of sliced truffles in between the two4 ,make your crust1 either in a mould1 or with the hands1 put a layer of force-meat at the bottom1 then two woodcocks1 then a layer of truffles1 then the other two woodcocks1 another layer of truffles1 and a top layer of force-meat1 and some thin slices of fat bacon4 ,cover the pie1 leaving a hole for the gravy1 and bake in a moderate oven4 ,after taking out pour in the gravy1 then close the orifice and let the pie get cold before serving4 ,n4,b4--,it will stimulate the digging industry if one or two whole truffles have been hidden away in the recesses of the pie4 ,another good pie ,i have met with--in the north country--was lined with portions of grouse and black game 7no bones71 with here and there half a hard-boiled egg4 ,nothing else except the necessary seasoning4 ,with regard to ,hunting ,luncheons it cannot be said that your ,nimrod is nearly as well catered for as is the ,gun4 ,for1 as a rule1 the first-named1 if he be really keen on the sport of kings has to content himself1 during the interval of a check1 with the contents of a sandwich-case1 and a flask1 which may contain either brown sherry or brandy and water--or possibly something still more seductive4 ,i have heard of flasks which held milk punch1 but the experience is by no means a familiar one4 ,if your ,nimrod be given to macadamising1 instead of riding the line1 or if he sicken of the business altogether before hounds throw off1 he can usually cadge a lunch at some house in the neighbourhood1 even though it may only run to bread and cheese--or1 possibly1 a wedge of a home-made pork-pie--with a glass1 or mug1 of nut brown ale4 ,not that all ale is nut brown1 but 'tis an epithet which likes me well4 ,would it were possible to give practical hints here as to the true way to manufacture a pork-pie6 ,to make the attempt would1 ,i fear1 only serve to invite disaster2 for the art of pork-pie making1 like that of the poet1 or the play-actor1 should be born within us4 ,in large households in the midland counties 7wherein doth flourish the pig tart7 there is1 as a rule1 but one qualified pie-maker--who is incapable of any other culinary feat whatever4 ,i have even been told that it requires special hands to make the crust of the proper consistency2 and having tasted crusts and crusts1 ,i can implicitly believe this statement4 ,here is a recipe for a veritable savoury ,yorkshire ,pie4 ,bone a goose and a large fowl4 ,fill the latter with the following stuffing3--minced ham1 veal1 suet1 onion1 sweet herbs1 lemon peel1 mixed spices1 goose-liver1 cayenne1 and salt1 worked into a paste with the yolks of two eggs4 ,sew up the fowl1 truss it1 and stew it with the goose for twenty minutes in some good beef and giblet stock1 with a small glass of sherry1 in a close stewpan4 ,then put the fowl inside the goose1 and place the goose within a pie-mould which has been lined with good hot-water paste4 ,let the goose rest on a cushion of stuffing1 and in the middle of the liquor in which he has been stewed4 ,surround him in the pie with slices of parboiled tongue and chunks of semi-cooked pheasant1 partridge1 and hare1 filling in the vacancies with more stuffing1 put a layer of butter atop1 roof in the pie with paste1 bake for three hours1 and eat either hot or cold--the latter for choice4 ,for a skating luncheon ,irish ,stew is the recognised entre1 served in soup-plates1 and washed down with hot spiced ale4 ,in the way of ,race-course ,luncheons our caterers have made giant strides in the last dozen years4 ,a member of a large firm once told me that it was out of the question to supply joints1 chops1 and steaks in the dining-rooms of a grand stand1 distant far from his base of operations1 ,london4 ,impossible1 my dear sir6 we couldn't do it without incurring a ruinous loss4 ,but the whirligig of time has proved this feat to be not only possible1 but one which has led to the best results for all concerned4 ,in the matter of chops and steaks ,i hope to see further reforms introduced4 ,these succulent dainties1 it cannot be too widely known1 are not at their best unless cut fresh from loin or rump1 just before being placed on the gridiron4 ,the longer a cut chop 7raw7 is kept the more of its virtue is lost4 ,it might1 possibly1 cause a little extra delay1 and a little extra expense1 to send off loins and rumps from the butcher's shop1 instead of ready-cut portions1 but the experiment would answer1 in the long run4 ,the same rule1 of course1 should apply to restaurants and grill-rooms all over the world4 ,during the autumn and winter months1 race-course caterers seem to have but one idea of warm comforting food for their customers1 and the name of that idea is ,irish stew4 ,this is no doubt an appetising dish1 but might be varied occasionally for the benefit of the habitual follower of the sport of kings4 ,why not pea-soup1 jugged hare 7hares are cheap enough71 hot-pot1 ,scotch broth1 mullagatawny1 hotch-potch1 stewed or curried rabbit1 with rice1 shepherd's pie1 haricot ox-tails1 sheep's head broth 7,scotch fashion71 and hare soup6 ,what is the matter with the world-renowned stew of which we read in ,the ,old ,curiosity ,shop--the supper provided by the landlord of the ,jolly ,sandboys for the itinerant showmen8 ,here it is again3 ',it's a stew of tripe1' said the landlord1 smacking his lips1 'and cowheel1' smacking them again1 'and bacon1' smacking them once more1 'and steak1' smacking them for the fourth time1 'and peas1 cauliflowers1 new potatoes1 and sparrowgrass1 all working up together in one delicious gravy4' ,having come to the climax1 he smacked his lips a great many times1 and taking a long hearty sniff of the fragrance that was hovering about1 put on the cover again with the air of one whose toils on earth were over4 ',at what time will it be ready8' asked ,mr4 ,codlin faintly4 ',it'll be done to a turn1' said the landlord1 looking up at the clock1 'at twenty-two minutes before eleven4' ',then1' said ,mr4 ,codlin1 'fetch me a pint of warm ale1 and don't let nobody bring into the room even so much as a biscuit till the time arrives4' ,and ,i do vow and protest that the above passage has caused much more smacking of lips than the most expensive1 savoury menu ever thought out4 ,true1 sparrowgrass and new potatoes1 and any peas but dried or tinned ones are not as a rule at their best in the same season as tripe2 but why not dried peas1 and old potatoes1 and rice1 and curry powder1 and onions--,charles ,dickens forgot the onions--with1 maybe1 a modicum of old ale added1 for body--in this stew1 on a cold day at ,sandown or ,kempton8 ,toujours ,irish stew1 like toujours mother-in-law1 is apt to pall upon the palate2 especially if not fresh made4 ,and frost occasionally interferes with the best-laid plans of a race-course caterer4 ,i don't mind a postponed meeting1 once observed one of the readiest of bookmakers2 but what ,i cannot stand is postponed ,irish stew4 ,than a good bowl of ,scotch ,broth1 what could be more grateful1 or less expensive8 ,shin of beef1 pearl barley1 cabbages1 leeks1 turnips1 carrots1 dried peas 7of course soaked overnight71 and water--all working up together in one delicious gravy4 ,also ,hotch ,potch4 ,with the addition of cutlets from the best end of a neck of mutton1 the same recipe as the above will serve for this dish1 which it must be remembered should be more of a stodge than a broth4 ,there are more ways than one of making a hot-pot4 ,the recipe given above would hardly suit the views of any caterer who wishes to make a living for himself2 but it can be done on the cheap4 ,the old lady whose dying husband was ordered by the doctor oysters and champagne1 procured whelks and ginger beer for the patient1 instead1 on the score of economy4 ,then why not make your hot-pot with mussels instead of oysters8 ,or why add any sort of mollusc8 ,in the certain knowledge that these be invaluable hints to race-course caterers1 ,i offer them with all consideration and respect4 ,the writer well remembers the time when the refreshments on ,newmarket ,heath at race-time were dispensed from a booth1 which stood almost adjoining the ,birdcage4 ,said refreshments were rough1 but satisfying1 and consisted of thick sandwiches1 cheese1 and bread1 with thumb-pieces 7or thumbers7 of beef1 mutton1 and pork1 which the luncher was privileged to cut with his own clasp-knife4 ,said thumbers seem to have gone out of favour with the aristocracy of the ,turf2 but the true racing or coursing sandwich still forms part of the impedimenta of many a cash-bookmaker1 of his clerk1 and of many a little backer4 ',tis a solid1 satisfying sandwich1 and is just the sort of nourishment for a hard worker on a bitter ,november day4 ,let your steak be grilling1 whilst you are enjoying your breakfast--some prefer the ox-portion fried1 for these simple speculators have strange tastes--then take the steak off the fire and place it1 all hot1 between two thick slices of bread4 ,the sandwich will require several paper wrappings1 if you value the purity of your pocket-linings4 ,and when eaten cold1 the juices of the meat will be found to have irrigated the bread1 with more or less delicious gravy4 ,and1 as ,sam ,weller ought to have said1 it's the gravy as does it4 ,but what about the swells8 ,i fancy ,i hear somebody asking1 ,is my ,lord ,tomnoddy1 or the ,duke of ,earlswood to be compelled to satisfy his hunger1 on a race-course1 with tripe and fat bacon8 ,are you really advising those dapper-looking1 tailor-made ladies on yonder drag to insert their delicate teeth in a sandwich which would have puzzled ,gargantua to masticate8 ,not at all1 my good sir1 or madam4 ,the well-appointed coach should be well-appointed within and without4 ,of course the luncheon it contains will differ materially according to the season of the year4 ,this is the sort of meal ,i will provide1 an you will deign to visit the ,arabian tent behind my coach1 at ,ascot3 ,lobster mayonnaise1 salmon cutlets with ,tartar sauce 7iced71 curried prawns 7iced71 lobster cutlets1 chaud-froid of quails1 foie gras in aspic1 prawns in ditto1 plovers' eggs in ditto1 galantine of chicken1 ,york ham1 sweets various1 including iced gooseberry fool2 and1 as the pice de rsistance1 an ,angel's ,pie4 ,many people would call this a pigeon pie1 for in good sooth there be pigeons in it2 but 'tis a pie worthy of a brighter sphere than this4 ,six plump young pigeons1 trimmed of all superfluous matter1 including pinions and below the thighs4 ,season with pepper and salt1 and stuff these pigeons with foie gras1 and quartered truffles1 and fill up the pie with plovers' eggs and some good force-meat4 ,make a good gravy from the superfluous parts of the birds1 and some calf's head stock to which has been added about half a wine-glassful of old ,madeira1 with some lemon-juice and cayenne4 ,see that your paste be light and flaky1 and bake in a moderate oven for three hours4 ,pour in more gravy just before taking out1 and let the pie get cold4 ,this is a concoction which will make you back all the winners2 whilst no heiress who nibbles at it would refuse you her hand and heart afterwards4 ,this is another sort of ,pigeon ,pie which is best served hot1 and is more suited to the dining-room than the race-course4 ,line a pie dish with veal force-meat1 very highly seasoned1 about an inch thick4 ,place on it some thin slices of fat bacon1 three ,bordeaux pigeons 7trimmed7 in halves1 a veal sweetbread in slices1 an ox palate1 boiled and cut up into dice1 a dozen asparagus tops1 a few button mushrooms 7the large ones would give the interior of the pie a bad colour7 and the yolks of four eggs4 ,cover with force-meat1 and bake for three hours4 ,some good veal gravy should be served with this1 which ,i have named ,suffolk ,pride4 ,it is a remarkable fact in natural history that ,english pigeons are at their best just at the time when the young rooks leave the shelter of their nests4 ,therefore have ,i written1 in the above recipe1 ,bordeaux pigeons4 ,here is a quaint old eighteenth-century recipe1 which comes from ,northumberland1 and is given verbatim1 for a ,goose ,pie4 ,bone a goose1 a turkey1 a hare1 and a brace of grouse2 skin it1 and cut off all the outside pieces--,i mean of the tongue1 after boiling it--lay the goose1 for the outside a few pieces of hare2 then lay in the turkey1 the grouse1 and the remainder of the tongue and hare4 ,season highly between each layer with pepper and salt1 mace and cayenne1 and put it together1 and draw it close with a needle and thread4 ,take #bj lbs4 of flour1 put #e lbs4 of butter into a pan with some water1 let it boil1 pour it among the flour1 stir it with a knife1 then work it with your hands till quite stiff4 ,let it stand before the fire for half an hour1 then raise your pie and set it to cool2 then finish it1 put in the meat1 close the pie1 and set it in a cold place4 ,ornament according to your taste1 bandage it with calico dipped in fat4 ,let it stand all night before baking4 ,it will take a long time to bake4 ,the oven must be pretty hot for the first four hours1 and then allowed to slacken4 ,to know when it is enough1 raise one of the ornaments1 and with a fork try if the meat is tender4 ,if it is hard the pie must be put in again for two hours more4 ,after it comes out of the oven fill up with strong stock1 well seasoned1 or with clarified butter4 ,all standing pies made in this way4 ,verily1 in the eighteenth century they must have had considerably more surplus cash and time1 and rather more angelic cooks than their descendants6 ,during cold weather the interior of the coach should be well filled with earthenware vessels containing such provender as hot-pot1 hare soup1 mullagatawny1 lobster l',amricaine1 curried rabbit1 devilled larks--with the matriel for heating these4 ,such cold viands as game pie1 pressed beef1 boar's head1 foie gras 7truffled71 plain truffles 7to be steamed and served with buttered toast7 anchovies1 etc4 ,the larks should be smothered with a paste made from a mixture of mustard1 ,chili vinegar1 and a little anchovy paste1 and kept closely covered up4 ,after heating1 add cayenne to taste4 ,gourmets interested in menus may like to know what were the first djeuners partaken of by the ,tsar on his arrival in ,paris in ,october #ahfi4 ,on the first day he had hutres1 consomm1 oeufs la ,parisienne1 filet de boeuf1 pommes de terre1 ,nesselrode sauce1 chocolat4 ,next day he ate hutres1 consomm1 oeufs ,dauphine1 rougets1 noisettes d'agneau marchal1 pommes de terre1 cailles la ,bohmienne1 poires ,bar-le-,duc4 ,the writer can recall some colossal luncheons partaken of at dear1 naughty ,simla1 in the long ago1 when a hill station in ,india was1 if anything1 livelier than at the present day1 and furnished plenty of food for both mind and body4 ,our host was the genial proprietor of a weekly journal1 to which most of his guests contributed1 after their lights2 sport and the drama falling to the present writer's share4 ,most of the food at those luncheons had been specially imported from ,europe2 and although the whitebait tasted more of the hermetical sealing than of the ,thames mud1 most of the other items were succulent enough4 ,there were turtle soup1 and turtle fins2 highly seasoned pts of sorts2 and the native khansamah had added several dishes of his own providing and invention4 ,a young florican 7bustard7 is by no means a bad bird1 well roasted and basted2 and though the eternal vilolif 7veal olives7 were usually sent away untasted1 his snipe puddings were excellent4 ,what was called picheese 7twenty-five years old7 brandy1 from the atelier of ,messrs4 ,justerini and ,brooks1 was served after the coffee2 and those luncheon parties seldom broke up until it was time to dress for dinner4 ,in fact1 our memories were not often keen as to anything which occurred after the coffee1 and many strange things happened in consequence2 although as they have no particular connection with high-class cookery1 they need not be alluded to in this chapter4 ,but1 as observed before1 ,i am of opinion that luncheon1 except under certain circumstances1 is a mistake4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,dinner ,some hae meat and canna eat1 ,and some wad eat that want it2 ,but we can eat and we hae meat1 ,and sae the ,lord be thankit4 ,origin--,early dinners--,the noble ,romans--,vitellius the ,glutton--,origin of haggis--,the ,saxons--,highland hospitality--,the ,french invasion--,waterloo avenged--,the bad fairy ,ala--,comparisons--,the ,english cook or the foreign food torturer8--,plain or flowery--,fresh fish and the flavour wrapped up--,george ,augustus ,sala--,doctor ,johnson again4 ,it is somewhat humiliating to reflect that we ,britons owe the art of dining to our first conquerors the ,romans--a smooth-faced race of voluptuaries whose idea of a bonne bouche took the form of a dormouse stewed in honey and sprinkled with poppy-seed4 ,but it was not until the ,normans had fairly established themselves and their cookery1 that the sturdy ,saxon submitted himself to be educated by the foreign food-spoiler2 and at a later period the frequent invasions of ,france by ,britain--when money was tight in the little island--were undoubtedly responsible for the commencement of the system of decorating food which so largely obtains to-day4 ,the name dinner is said--although it seems incredible that words should have become so corrupted--to be a corruption of dix heures1 the time at which 7,a4,m471 in the old ,norman days1 the meal was usually partaken of2 and the time at which 7,p4,m471 in later years1 when none of the guests ever knew the hour1 in that loose-and-careless period1 the meal was occasionally partaken of at ,limmer's and at ,lane's1 in ,london town4 ,froissart1 in one of his works1 mentions having waited upon the ,duke of ,lancaster at #e ,p4,m41 after his ,grace had supped2 and it is certain that during the reigns of ,francis ,i4 and ,louis ,,xii4 of ,france1 the world of fashion was accustomed to dine long before the sun had arrived at the meridian1 and to sup at what we now call afternoon tea time4 ,louis ,,xiv4 did not dine till twelve2 and his contemporaries1 ,oliver ,cromwell and the ,merry ,monarch1 sat down to the principal meal at one4 ,in #agjj1 two was the fashionable time2 and in #agea we read that the ,duchess of ,somerset's hour for dinner was three4 ,the hour for putting the soup on the table kept on advancing1 until1 after ,waterloo1 it became almost a penal offence to dine before six2 and so to the end of the century1 when we sit down to a sumptuous repast at a time when farm-labourers and artisans are either snug between the blankets1 or engaged in their final wrangle at the ,blue ,pig4 ,the ,romans in the time of ,cicero had a light breakfast at #c4cj ,a4,m41 lunched at noon1 and attacked the coena at periods varying between #c and #g ,p4,m4--according to the season of the year4 ,they commenced the first course with eggs1 and each noble ,roman was supposed to clear his palate with an apple at the conclusion of the third course4 ,a banquet with ,vitellius1 we read1 was no light and simple repast4 ,leagues of sea and miles of forest had been swept to furnish the mere groundwork of the entertainment4 ,hardy fishermen had spent their nights on the heaving wave1 that the giant turbot might flap its snowy flakes on the ,emperor's table1 broader than its broad dish of gold4 ,many a swelling hill1 clad in the dark oak coppice1 had echoed to ringing shout of hunter and deep-mouthed bay of hound1 ere the wild boar yielded his grim life1 by the morass1 and the dark grisly carcase was drawn off to provide a standing dish that was only meant to gratify the eye4 ,even the peacock roasted in its feathers was too gross a dainty--especially the feather part1 we should think--for epicures who studied the art of gastronomy under ,caesar2 and that taste would have been considered rustic in the extreme which could partake of more than the mere fumes and savour of so substantial a dish4 ,a thousand nightingales had been trapped and killed1 indeed1 for this one supper1 but brains and tongues were all they contributed to the banquet2 while even the wing of a roasted hare would have been considered far too coarse and common food for the imperial table4 ,talk about a bean-feast6 ,according to ,suetonius 7whose name suggests duff7 the villain ,nero was accustomed to dine in a superb apartment1 surrounded with mechanical scenery1 which could be shifted with every course4 ,the suppers of ,vitellius the ,glutton cost1 on the average1 more than #djjj a-piece--which reads like a ,kaffir ,circus dinner at the ,savoy--and the celebrated feast to which he invited his brother was down in the bill for #dj1cej4 ,now a-nights we don't spend as much on a dinner1 even when we invite other people's wives4 ,it consisted--,i always think of ,little ,dombey and the dinner at ,doctor ,blimber's1 on reading these facts--of two thousand different dishes of fish1 and seven thousand of fowls1 with other equally numerous meats4 ,sharp-biting salads1 salted herrings1 and pickled anchovies1 were served1 as hors d'oeuvres during the first course of a ,roman banquet1 to stimulate the hunger which the rest of the meal would satisfy2 but although ,vitellius was1 according to history1 a whale on oysters1 they do not appear to have been eaten as a whet to appetite4 ,and it was the duty of one1 or more1 of the ,emperor's freedmen to taste every dish before his imperial master1 in case poison might lurk therein4 ,a garland of flowers around the brows was the regular wear for a guest at a swagger dinner party in ancient ,rome1 and1 the eating part over1 said garland was usually tilted back on the head1 the while he who had dined disposed himself in an easy attitude on his ivory couch1 and proffered his cup to be filled by the solicitous slave4 ,then commenced the big drink4 ,but it must be remembered that although the subsequent display of fireworks was provided from lively ,early ,christians1 in tar overcoats1 these ,romans drank the pure1 unadulterated juice of the grape1 freely mixed with water2 so that headaches i' th' morn were not de rigueur1 nor did the subsequent massacres and other diversions in the ,amphitheatre cause any feelings of jumpiness4 ,the ,roman bill-of-fare1 however1 does not commend itself to all ,british epicures1 one of whom wrote1 in a convivial song-- ,old ,lucullus1 they say1 ,forty cooks had each day1 ,and ,vitellius's meals cost a million2 ,but ,i like what is good1 ,when or where be my food1 ,in a chop-house or royal pavilion4 ,at all feasts 7if enough7 ,i most heartily stuff1 ,and a song at my heart alike rushes1 ,though ,i've not fed my lungs ,upon nightingales' tongues1 ,nor the brains of goldfinches and thrushes4 ,my pen loves to linger long over the gastronomies of those shaven voluptuaries1 the ancient ,italians2 and my ,caledonian readers will forgive the old tales when it is further set forth that the ,romans introduced1 amongst other things1 ,haggis into ,bonnie ,scotland4 ,yes1 the poet's great chieftain o' the puddin' race is but an ,italian dish after all4 ,the ,apician pork haggis#c was a boiled pig's stomach filled with fry and brains1 raw eggs1 and pine-apples beaten to a pulp1 and seasoned with liquamen4 ,for although some of the ,romans' tastes savoured of refinement1 many of them were absolutely beastly4 ,the idea of pig's fry and pine-apples mixed is horrible enough2 but take a look into the constitution of this liquamen1 and wonder no longer that ,gibbons wrote his ,decline and ,fall with so much feeling and gusto4 ,this sauce was obtained from the intestines1 gills1 and blood of fishes1 great and small1 stirred together with salt1 and exposed in an open vat in the sun1 until the compound became putrid4 ,when putrefaction had done its work1 wine and spices were added to the hell-broth1 which was subsequently strained and sent into the ,roman market4 ,this liquamen was manufactured in ,greece1 and not one of all the poets of sunny ,italy seems to have satirised the made-in-,greece custom1 which in those days must have been almost as obnoxious as the made-in-,germany or the made-in-,whitechapel scare of to-day4 ,the usual farinaceous ingredient of the ,roman haggis was frumenty1 but frequently no grain whatever was applied2 and instead of mincing the ingredients1 as do the ,scots1 the ancients pounded them in a mortar1 well moistened with liquamen1 until reduced to pulp4 ,we are further told in history that a ,roman gladiator was capable1 after playing with eggs1 fish1 nightingales' tongues1 dormice1 and haggis1 of finishing a wild boar at a sitting4 ,but as the old lady remarked of the great tragedy1 this happened a long time ago1 so let's hope it isn't true4 ,the ,saxon dining-table was oblong1 and rounded at the ends4 ,the cloth was crimson1 with broad gilt edgings hanging low beneath the table1 and1 it is to be feared1 often soiled by the dirty boots of the guests1 who sat on chairs with covered backs1 the counterfeit presentments of which are still to be seen in the ,tottenham ,court ,road4 ,the food consisted of fish1 fowls1 beef1 mutton1 venison1 and pork--wild and domestic--either boiled1 baked1 or broiled1 and handed to the company by the attendants on small sples4 ,a favourite fish joint of the old ,saxon was a cut out of the middle of a porpoise2 and bread of the finest wheaten flour reposed in two silver baskets at each end of the table1 above the salt1 the retainers having to content themselves with coarser household out of a wooden cradle4 ,almost the only vegetable in use amongst the ,saxons was colewort1 although the ,romans had brought over many others1 years before2 but hatred of anything foreign was more rampant in early ,saxon days than at present4 ,forks were not introduced into ,england until during the reign of ,king ,jamie3 so that our ancestors had perforce to thumb their victuals4 ,the fair ,queen ,elizabeth 7like much more modern monarchs7 was accustomed to raise to her mouth with her virgin fingers a turkey leg and gnaw it4 ,but even in the earliest days of the thirteenth century1 each person was provided with a small silver basin and two flowered napkins of the finest linen1 for finger-washing and wiping purposes4 ,grapes1 figs1 nuts1 apples1 pears1 and almonds1 constituted a ,saxon dessert2 and in the reign of ,edward ,,iii4 an ,act of ,parliament was passed1 forbidding any man or woman to be served with more than two courses1 unless on high days and holidays1 when each was entitled to three4 ,here is the bill for the ingredients of a big dinner provided by a ,city ,company in the fifteenth century3 ,two loins of veal and two loins of mutton1 #as4 #d;d42 one loin of beef1 #d;d42 one dozen pigeons and #ab rabbits1 #i;d42 one pig and one capon1 #as42 one goose and #ajj eggs1 #as4 #j;d42 one leg of mutton1 #b;d42 two gallons of sack1 #as4 #d;d42 eight gallons of strong ale1 #as4 #f;d42 total1 #gs4 #f;d4 ,alas6 ,in these advanced days the goose alone would cost more than the demmed total4 ,cedric the ,saxon's dining table1 described in ,ivanhoe1 was of a much simpler description than the one noted above2 and the fare also4 ,but there was no lack of assorted liquors--old wine and ale1 good mead and cider1 rich morat 7a mixture of honey and mulberry juice1 a somewhat gouty beverage1 probably71 and odoriferous pigment--which was composed of highly-spiced wine1 sweetened with honey4 ,the ,virgin ,queen1 at a later epoch1 was catered for more delicately2 and we read that she detested all coarse meats1 evil smells1 and strong wines4 ,during the ,georgian era coarse meats and strong wines were by no means out of favour2 and ,highland banquets especially were ,gargantuan feasts1 to be read of with awe4 ,the dinner given by ,fergus ,mac,ivor1 in honour of ,captain ,waverley1 consisted of dishes of fish and game1 carefully dressed1 at the upper end of the table1 immediately under the eye of the ,english stranger4 ,lower down stood immense clumsy joints of beef1 says the gifted author1 which1 but for the absence of pork1 abhorred in the ,highlands1 resembled the rude festivity of the banquet of ,penelope's suitors4 ,but the central dish was a yearling lamb1 called a hog in har'st1 roasted whole4 ,it was set upon its legs1 with a bunch of parsley in its mouth1 and was probably exhibited in that form to gratify the pride of the cook1 who piqued himself more on the plenty than the elegance of his master's table4 ,the sides of this poor animal--the lamb1 not the cook1 we suppose is meant--were fiercely attacked by the clansmen1 some with dirks1 others with the knives worn in the same sheath as the dagger1 so that it was soon rendered a mangled and rueful spectacle4 ,a spectacle which reminds the writer of a dinner table at the ,royal ,military ,college1 ,sandhurst1 in the early sixties4 ,lower down1 continues ,sir ,walter1 the victuals seemed of yet coarser quality1 though sufficiently abundant4 ,broth1 onions1 cheese1 and the fragments of the feast1 regaled the sons of ,ivor1 who feasted in the open air4 ,the funeral baked meats used after the interment of the chief of the ,clan ,quhele 7described in ,the ,fair ,maid of ,perth7 were also on a very extensive scale1 and were1 like the other meal1 digested with pailfuls of usquebaugh1 for which no ,highland head that supported a bonnet was ever the waur i' th' morn4 ,and the custom of placing bagpipers behind the chairs of the guests1 after they have well drunk1 which is still observed in ,highland regiments1 was probably introduced by the aforesaid ,fergus ,mac,ivor1 who really ought to have known better4 ,and so the years rolled on2 and at the commencement of the nineteenth century1 old ,england1 instead of enjoying the blessings of universal peace1 such as the spread of the ,gospel of ,christianity might have taught us to expect1 found herself involved in rather more warfare than was good for trade1 or anything else4 ,the first innings of the ,corsican usurper was a short but merry one2 the second saw him finally stumped4 ,and from that period dates the avenging of ,waterloo which we have suffered in silence for so long4 ,the immigration of aliens commenced1 and in the tight little island were deposited a large assortment of the poisonous seeds of alien cookery which had never exactly flourished before4 ,the combat between the ,roast ,beef of old ,england and the bad fairy ,ala1 with her attendant sprites ,grease1 ,vinegar1 and ,garlic1 commenced2 a combat which at the end of the nineteenth century looked excessively like terminating in favour of the fairy4 ,it has been repeatedly urged against my former gastronomic writings that they are unjustly severe on ,french cookery2 that far greater minds than mine own have expressed unqualified approval thereof2 that ,i know absolutely nothing about the subject2 and that my avowed hatred of our lively neighbours and their works is so ferocious as to become ridiculous4 ,these statements are not altogether fair to myself4 ,i have no avowed hatred of our lively neighbours2 in fact1 upon one occasion on returning from the celebration of the ,grand ,prix1 ,i saw a vision of----but that is a different anecdote4 ,my lash has never embraced the entire batterie de cuisine of the chef1 and there be many ,french plats which are agreeable to the palate1 as long as we are satisfied that the matriel of which they are composed is sound1 wholesome1 and of the best quality4 ,it is the cheap restaurateur who should be improved out of ,england4 ,i was years ago inveigled into visiting the kitchen of one of these grease-and-garlic shops1 and----but the memory is too terrible for language4 ,and will anybody advance the statement that a basin of the tortue claire of the average chef deserves to be mentioned in the same breath with a plate of clear turtle at ,birch's or ,painter's8 or that good genuine ,english soup1 whether ox-tail1 mock-turtle1 pea1 oyster1 or ,palestine1 is not to be preferred to the ,french pure1 or to their teakettle broth flavoured with carrots1 cabbages1 and onions1 and dignified by the name of consomm8 ,then let us tackle the subject of fish4 ,would you treat a salmon in the ,british way1 or smother him with thick brown gravy1 fried onions1 garlic1 mushrooms1 inferior claret1 oysters1 sugar1 pepper1 salt1 and nutmeg1 en ,matelote1 or mince him fine to make a ridiculous mousse8 ,similarly with the honest1 manly sole2 would you fry or grill him plain1 or bake him in a coat of rich white sauce1 onion juice1 mussel ditto1 and white wine1 or cider1 la ,normande2 or cover him with toasted cheese la ,cardinal8 ,the fairy ,ala is likewise responsible for the clothing of purely ,english food in ,french disguises4 ,thus a leg of mutton becomes a gigot1 a pheasant 7for its transgressions in eating the poor farmer's barley7 a faisan1 and is charged for at special rates in the bill2 whilst the nearest to a beef-steak our lively neighbours can get is a portion of beef with the fibre smashed by a wooden mallet1 surmounted by an exceedingly bilious-looking compound like axle-grease1 and called a ,chteaubriand2 and curry becomes under the new rgime1 kari4 ,undoubtedly1 the principal reason for serving food smothered in made-gravies lies in the inferiority of the food4 ,few judges will credit ,france with the possession of better butcher's-meat--with the exception of veal--than the perfidious island1 which is so near in the matter of distance1 and yet so far in the matter of custom4 ,and it is an established fact that the fish of ,paris is not as fresh as the fish of ,london4 ,hence the sole ,normande1 the sole au gratin1 and the sole smothered in toasted cheese4 ,but when we islanders are charged at least four times as much for the inferior article1 in its foreign cloak1 as for the home article in its native majesty1 ,i think the time has come to protest4 ,it is possible to get an excellent dinner at any of the ,gordon hotels1 at the ,savoy1 the ,cecil1 and at some other noted food-houses--more especially at ,romano's--by paying a stiff price for it2 but it is due to a shameful lack of enterprise on the part of ,english caterers that a well-cooked ,english dinner is becoming more difficult to procure1 year after year4 ,there be three purely ,british dishes which are always hoff before all others on the programme of club1 hotel1 or eating-house2 and these are1 ,irish stew1 liver-and-bacon1 and tripe-and-onions4 ,yet hardly a week passes without a new dner ,parisien making its appearance in the advertisement columns of the newspapers2 whilst the cheap-and-nasty table d'hte1 with its six or seven courses and its ,spanish claret1 has simply throttled the ,roast ,beef of ,old ,england4 ,sir1 said ,dr4 ,johnson1 after examining a ,french menu1 my brain is obfuscated after the perusal of this heterogeneous conglomeration of bastard ,english ill-spelt1 and a foreign tongue4 ,i prithee bid thy knaves bring me a dish of hog's puddings1 a slice or two from the upper cut of a well-roasted sirloin1 and two apple-dumplings4 ,william1 said ,george ,augustus ,sala to the old waiter at the ,cheshire ,cheese1 ,i've had nothing fit to eat for three months2 get me a point steak1 for ,god's sake6 ,the great lauder of foreign cookery had only that day returned from a special mission to ,france1 to write up the works of the cordon bleu for the benefit of us benighted ,englishmen4 ,no man in the wide wide world knew so much1 or could write so much1 on the subject of and in praise of the fairy ,ala1 as ,george ,sala2 and probably no man in the wide wide world so little appreciated her efforts4 ,but how has it come about that the fairy ,ala has gained such headway in this island of ours8 ,the answer must commence another chapter4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,dinner 7continued7 ,it is the cause6 ,imitation--,dear ,lady ,thistlebrain--,try it on the dog--,criminality of the ,english ,caterer--,the stove1 the stink1 the steamer--,roasting v4 ,baking--,false ,economy--,dirty ovens--,frills and fingers--,time over ,dinner--,a long-winded ,bishop--,corned beef4 ,now for the cause1 alluded to at the end of the last chapter4 ,imprimis1 the ,french invasion is due to the universal craze for imitation1 which may be the sincerest form of flattery1 but which frequently leads to bad results4 ,for years past the fair sex of ,great ,britain have been looking to ,paris for fashion in dress1 as well as in cookery2 whilst the other sex have long held the mistaken notion that they manage things better in ,france4 ,the idea that ,france is the only country capable of clothing the outer and the inner man1 artistically1 has taken deep root4 ,thus1 if the ,duchess of ,dulverton import1 regardless of expense1 a divine creation in bonnets from the ,rue de ,castiglione1 and air the same in church1 it is good odds that little ,mrs4 ,stokes1 of the ,talbot ,road1 ,bayswater1 will have had the chapeau copied1 at about one-twentieth of the original cost1 by the next ,sabbath day4 ,dear ,lady ,thistlebrain1 who has such taste 7since she quitted the family mangle in ,little ,toke ,street1 ,lambeth1 for two mansions1 a castle1 and a deer park71 and with whom money is no object1 pays her chef the wages of an ambassador1 and everybody raves over her dinners4 ,mrs4 ,potter of ,maida ,vale sets her gal 7who studied higher gastronomy1 together with the piano1 and flower-painting on satin1 at the ,board ,school7 to work on similar menus--with1 on the whole1 disastrous results4 ,the ,london society and fashion journals encourage this snobbish idea by quoting menus1 most of them ridiculous4 ,amongst the middle classes the custom of giving dinner parties at hotels has for some time past been spreading1 partly to save trouble1 and partly to save the brain of the domestic cook2 so that instead of sitting down to a plain dinner1 with1 maybe1 an entre or two sent in by the local confectioner--around the family mahogany tree1 all may be fanciful decoration1 and not half enough to eat1 electric light1 and la with attendance charged in the bill4 ,the only way to stop this sort of thing is to bring the system into ridicule1 to try it on the groundlings4 ,a fair leader of ton1 late in the sixties1 appeared one morning in the haunts of fashion1 her shapely shoulders covered with a cape of finest ,russian sables1 to the general admiration and envy of all her compeers4 ,thereupon1 what did her dearest friend and 7of course7 most deadly rival do8 ,get a similar cape1 or one of finer quality8 ,not a bit of it4 ,she drove off1 then and there1 to her furriers1 and had her coachman and footman fitted with similar capes1 in 7of course7 cheaper material2 and1 when next afternoon she took the air in the park1 in her perfectly appointed landau1 her fur-clad menials created something like a panic in the camp of her enemy1 whilst fur capes for fair leaders of ton1 were1 like hashed venison at a ,city luncheon1 very soon hoff4 ,it is extremely probable that1 could it be arranged to feed our starving poor1 beneath the public gaze1 on sles ,normandes1 ctelettes la ,reform1 and salmi de gibier truff2 to feast our workhouse children on bisque d'crvisses and ,ananas la ,crole1 the upper classes of ,great ,britain would soon revert to plain roast and boiled4 ,but after all it is the ,english caterer who is chiefly to blame for his own undoing4 ,how is it that in what may be called the food streets of the metropolis the foreign food-supplier should outnumber the purveyor of the ,roast ,beef of ,old ,england in the proportion of fifty to one8 ,simply because the ,roast ,beef of ,old ,england has become almost as extinct as the ,dodo4 ,there are but few ,english kitchens1 at this end of the nineteenth century1 in the which meat is roasted in front of the fire4 ,in order to save the cost of fuel1 most ,english 7save the mark67 cooking is now performed by gas or steam2 and at many large establishments the food1 whether fish1 flesh1 fowl1 vegetables or pastry1 all goes1 in a raw state1 into a species of chest of drawers made of block-tin1 in which receptacle the daily luncheons1 dinners1 and suppers are steamed and robbed of all flavour1 save that of hot tin4 ,the pity of it6 ,better1 far better for mankind the la system than to be gradually steamed into the tomb6 ,it is alleged that as good results in the way of roasting can be got from an oven as from the spit4 ,but that oven must be ventilated--with both an inlet and an outlet ventilator1 for one will not act without the other4 ,it is also advisable that said oven should be cleaned out occasionally2 for a hot oven with no joint therein will emit odours anything but agreeable1 if not attended to2 and it is not too sweeping a statement to say that the majority of ovens in busy kitchens are foul4 ,the system of steaming food 7the alleged roasts being subsequently browned in an oven7 is of comparatively recent date2 but the oven as a roaster was the invention of one ,count ,rumford1 at the beginning of the nineteenth century4 ,in one of his lectures on oven-roasting1 this nobleman remarked that he despaired of getting any ,englishman to believe his words2 so that he was evidently confronted with plenty of prejudice1 which it is devoutly to be prayed still exists in ,english homes4 ,for ,i do vow and protest that the oven odours which pervade the neighbourhood of the ,strand1 ,london1 at midday1 are by no means calculated to whet the appetite of the would-be luncher or diner4 ,this is what such an authority as ,mr4 ,buckmaster wrote on the subject of the spit versus the oven3 ,i believe ,i am regarded as a sort of heretic on the question of roasting meat4 ,my opinion is that the essential condition of good roasting is constant basting1 and this the meat is not likely to have when shut up in an iron box2 and what is not easily done is easily neglected4 ,in this connection there are more heretics than ,mr4 ,buckmaster4 ,but if during my lifetime the days of burning heretics should be revived1 ,i shall certainly move the ,court of ,criminal ,appeal in favour of being roasted or grilled before1 or over1 the fire1 instead of being deprived of my natural juices in an iron box4 ,some few roast houses are still in existence in ,london1 but they be few and far between2 and since ,mr4 ,cooper gave up the ,albion1 nearly opposite the stage-door of ,drury ,lane ,theatre1 the lover of good1 wholesome1 ,english food has lost one old-fashioned tavern in the which he was certain of enjoying such food4 ,it has been repeatedly urged in favour of ,french cookery that it is so economical4 ,but economy in the preparation of food is by no means an unmixed blessing4 ,i do not believe that much sole-leather is used up in the ordinary ragot1 or salmi2 but many of us who can afford more expensive joints have a prejudice against scrags2 whilst the tails of mutton chops frequently have a tainted flavour1 and the drumsticks and backs of fowls are only fit to grill1 or boil down into gravy4 ,and it is not only the alien who is economical in his preparation of the banquet4 ,many of the dwellers in the highways and bye-ways of our great metropolis will boil down the outer skin of a ham1 and place a portion thereof1 together with such scraps as may also be purchased1 at a penny or twopence the plateful1 at the ham and beef emporium1 with maybe a block ornament or two from the butcher's1 in a pie dish1 with a superstructure of potatoes1 and have the scrap pie cooked at the baker's for the ,sunday dinner4 ,poor wretches6 ,not much waste goes on in such households4 ,but ,i have known the gal who tortured the food in a cheap lodging-house throw away the water in which a joint had just been boiled1 but whether this was from sheer ignorance1 or cussedness1 or the desire to save herself any future labour in the concoction of soup1 deponent sayeth not4 ,by the way1 it is in the matter of soup that the tastes of the ,british and ,french peasantry differ so materially4 ,unless he or she be absolutely starving1 it is next to impossible to get one of the groundlings of old ,england to attempt a basin of soup4 ,and when they do attempt the same1 it has been already made for them4 ,the ,scotch1 who are born cooks1 know much better than this2 but do not1 ,o reader1 if at all thin of skin1 or refined of ear1 listen too attentively to the thanks which a denizen of the disthressful counthry will bestow upon you for a dhirty bowl o' bone-juice4 ,how many modern diners1 we wonder1 know the original object of placing frills around the shank of a leg or shoulder of mutton1 a ham1 the shins of a fowl1 or the bone of a cutlet8 ,fingers were made before--and a long time before--forks4 ,in the seventeenth century--prior to which epoch not much nicety was observed in carving1 or eating--we read that ,english gentlewomen were instructed by schoolmistresses and professors of etiquette as to the ways in which it behoved them to carve joints4 ,that she might be able to grasp a roasted chicken without greasing her left hand1 the gentle housewife was careful to trim its foot and the lower part of its legs with cut paper4 ,the paper frill which may still be seen round the bony point and small end of a leg of mutton1 is a memorial of the fashion in which joints were dressed for the dainty hands of lady-carvers1 in time prior to the introduction of the carving-fork1 an implement that was not in universal use so late as the ,commonwealth4 ,how long we should sit over the dinner-table is a matter of controversy4 ,at the commencement of the nineteenth century1 in the hard-drinking times1 our forefathers were loth indeed to quit the table4 ,but the fairer portion of the guests were accustomed to adjourn early1 for tea and scandal in the withdrawing-room1 the while their lords sat and quarrelled over their port1 with locked doors2 and where they fell there they frequently passed the night4 ,the editor of the ,almanach des ,gourmands wrote3 ,five hours at table are a reasonable latitude to allow in the case of a large party and recondite cheer4 ,but the worthy ,grimod de la ,reymire1 the editor aforesaid1 lived at a period when dinner was not served as late as #h4cj ,p4,m4 ,there is a legend of an ,archbishop of ,york who sat three entire years at dinner4 ,but this is one of those tales which specially suited the dull1 brandy-sodden brains of our ancestors4 ,the facts are simply as follows3--the archbishop had just sat down to dinner at noon when an ,italian priest called4 ,hearing that the dignitary was sitting at meat the priest whiled away an hour in looking at the minster1 and called again1 but was again repelled by the porter4 ,twice more that afternoon did the surly porter repel the ,italian1 and at the fourth visit the porter1 in a heate1 answered never a worde1 and churlishlie did shutte the gates upon him4 ,then the discomfited ,italian returned to ,rome2 and three years later1 encountering an ,englishman in the ,eternal ,city1 who declared himself right well known to ,his ,grace of ,york1 the ,italian1 all smiles1 inquired3 ,i pray you1 good sir1 hath that archbishop finished dinner yet8 ,hence the story1 which was doubtless originally told by a fly-fisher4 ,it is not a little singular that with increasing civilisation1 a gong1 which is of barbaric1 or semi-barbaric origin1 should be the means usually employed to summon us to the dinner-table4 ,in days of yore the horn1 or cornet1 was blown as the signal4 ,alexander ,dumas tells us that at the period when noon was the dinner hour1 the horn or cornet 7le cor7 was used in great houses to announce dinner4 ,hence came an expression which has been lost2 they used to say cornet 7or trumpet7 the dinner 7cornez le diner74 ,and we are asked to believe that to this practice corned beef owes its derivation4 ,in days when inferior people ate little meat in the winter months save salted beef1 the more usual form of the order was cornez le boeuf1 or 'corn the beef4' ,richardson errs egregiously when he insists that corned beef derived its distinguishing epithet from the grains or corns of salt with which it was pickled4 ,corned beef is trumpeted beef1 or as we should nowadays say1 dinner-bell beef4 ,well--,i hae ma doots1 as the ,scotsman said4 ,i am not so sure that ,richardson erred egregiously4 ,but after all1 as long as the beef be good1 and can be carved without the aid of pick and spade1 what does it matter8 ,let us to dinner6 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,dinner 7continued7 ,the strong table groans ,beneath the smoking sirloin stretched immense4 ,a merry ,christmas--,bin ,f--,a ,noel banquet--,water-cress--,how ,royalty fares--,the ,tsar--,bouillabaisse--,tournedos--,bisq ue--,vol-au-vent--,pr sal--,chinese banquets--,a fixed bayonet--,bernardin salmi--,the duck-squeezer--,american cookery--,borston beans--,he couldn't eat beef4 ,a ,christmas dinner in the early ,victorian era6 ,quelle fte magnifique6 ,the man who did not keep ,christmas in a fitting manner in those days was not thought much of4 ,dines by himself at the club on ,christmas day6 was the way the late ,mr4 ,george ,payne of sporting memory1 summed up a certain middle-aged recluse1 with heaps of money1 who1 although he had two estates in the country1 preferred to live in two small rooms in ,st4 ,james's ,place1 ,s4,w41 and to take his meals at ,arthur's4 ,and how we boys 7not to mention the little lasses in white frocks and black mittens7 used to overeat ourselves1 on such occasions1 with no fear of pill1 draught1 or staying in1 before our eyes6 ,the writer has in his mind's eye a good specimen of such an old-fashioned dinner1 as served in the fifties4 ,it was pretty much the same feast every ,christmas4 ,we commenced with some sort of clear soup1 with meat in it4 ,then came a codfish1 crimped--the head of that household would have as soon thought of eating a sle au vin blanc as of putting before his family an uncrimped cod--with plenty of liver1 oyster sauce1 and pickled walnuts2 and at the other end of the table was a dish of fried smelts4 ,entres8 ,had any of the diners asked for an entre1 his or her exit from the room would have been a somewhat rapid one4 ,a noble sirloin of ,scotch beef faced a boiled turkey anointed with celery sauce2 and then appeared the blazing pudding1 and the mince-pies4 ,for the next course1 a dish of toasted 7or rather stewed7 cheese1 home-made and full of richness1 was handed round1 with dry toast1 the bearer of which was closely pursued by a varlet carrying a huge double-handed vessel of hot spiced-ale1 bobbing or floating about in the which were roasted crab-apples and sippets of toast2 and it was de rigueur for each of those who sat at meat to extract a sippet1 to eat with the cheese4 ,how the old retainer1 grey and plethoric with service1 loved us boys1 and how he would manoeuvre to obtain for us the tit-bits6 ,a favoured servitor was ,joseph2 and though my revered progenitor was ostensibly the head of the house1 he would1 on occasion1 run a bad second to ,joseph4 ,memory is still keen of a certain chilly evening in ,september1 when the ladies had retired to the drawing-room1 and the male guests were invited to be seated at the small table which had been wheeled close to the replenished fire4 ,joseph1 said the dear old man1 bring us a bottle or two of the yellow seal--you know--,bin ,f4 ,the servitor drew near to his master1 and in a stage whisper exclaimed3 ,you can't afford it1 sir6 ,what's that8 roared the indignant old man4 ,you can't afford it1 sir--,hawthornden's won th' ,leger6 ,good ,gad6 ,a pause--and then1 ,well1 never mind1 ,joseph1 we'll have up the yellow seal1 all the same4 ,one of the writer's last ,christmas dinners was partaken of in a sweet little house in ,mayfair2 and affords somewhat of a contrast with the meal quoted above4 ,we took our appetites away with a salad composed of anchovies1 capers1 truffles1 and other things1 a ,russian sardine or two1 and rolls and butter4 ,thence1 we drifted into ,bouillabaisse 7a tasty but bile-provoking broth71 toyed with some filets de sle la ,parisienne 7good but greasy71 and disposed of a tournedos1 with a nice fat oyster atop1 apiece 7et parlez-moi d'a674 ,then came some dickey-birds sur canap--alleged to be snipe1 but destitute of flavour1 save that of the tin they had been spoiled in1 and of the canopy4 ,an alien cook can not cook game1 whatever choice confections he may turn out--at least that is the experience of the writer4 ,we had cressons1 of course1 with the birds2 though how water-cress can possibly assimilate with the flesh of a snipe is questionable4 ,water-creases are all very well at tea in the arbour1 but don't go smoothly with any sort of fowl2 and to put such rank stuff into a salad--as my hostess's cook did--is absolutely criminal4 ,to continue the ,mayfair banquet1 the salad was followed by a souffle la ,noel 7which reminded some of the more imaginative of our party of the festive season71 some cheese straws1 and the customary ices1 coffee1 and liqueurs4 ,on the whole1 not a bad meal2 but what would old ,father ,christmas have said thereto8 ,what would my revered progenitor have remarked1 had he been allowed to revisit the glimpses of the moon8 ,he did not love our lively neighbours2 and1 upon the only occasion on which he was inveigled across the ,channel1 took especial care to recross it the very next day1 lest1 through circumstances not under his own control1 he might come to be buried amongst these d----d ,french6 ,the following menu may give some idea as to how ,royalty entertains its guests4 ,said menu1 as will be seen1 is comparatively simple1 and many of the dishes are ,french only in name3-- ,hutres ---- ,consomm aux oeufs pochs ,bisque d'crevisses ---- ,turbot1 sauce d'homard ,fillets de saumon l',indienne ---- ,vol-au-vent ,financire ,mauviettes sur le ,nid ---- ,selle de mouton de ,galles rotie ,poulardes l',estragon ---- ,faisans ,bcassines sur crote ---- ,chouxfleur au gratin ---- ,plum ,pudding ,bavarois aux abricots ---- ,glace la ,mocha ,truly a pattern dinner1 this2 and 'twould be sheer impertinence to comment thereon1 beyond remarking that ,english dishes should1 in common fairness1 be called by ,english names4 ,her ,imperial ,majesty the ,tsaritza1 on the night of her arrival at ,darmstadt1 in ,october #ahif1 sat down1 together with her august husband1 to the following simple meal3-- ,consomm de ,volaille ,cronstades d'crevisses ---- ,filet de ,turbot la ,joinville ---- ,cimier de ,chevreuil ,a haunch of ,roebuck is far to be desired above the same quarter of the red deer4 ---- ,terrine de ,perdreaux ---- ,ponche ,royale ---- ,poularde de ,metz ---- ,choux de ,bruxelles ---- ,bavarois aux ,abricots ---- ,glaces ,panaches ,the partiality of crowned heads towards ,bavarois aux ,abricots--,bavarois is simply ,bavarian cheese1 a superior sort of blanc mange--is proverbial4 ,and the above repast was served on priceless ,meissen china and silver4 ,the only remarks ,i will make upon the above menu are that it is quite possible that the capon may have come from ,metz1 though not very probable4 ,french cooks name their meat and poultry in the most reckless fashion4 ,for instance1 owing to this reckless nomenclature the belief has grown that the best ducks come from ,rouen4 ,nothing of the sort4 ,there are just as good ducks raised at ,west ,hartlepool as at ,rouen4 ,rouen in the bill-of-fare is simply a corruption of roan2 and a roan duck is a quacker who has assumed 7through crossing7 the reddish plumage of the wild bird4 ,as for 7alleged7 ,surrey fowls1 most of them come from ,heathfield in ,sussex1 whence #adb1jjj worth were sent in #ahif4 ,let us enquire into the composition of some of the high-sounding plats1 served up by the average chef4 ,bouillabaisse4--,of it ,thackeray sang-- ,this ,bouillabaisse a noble dish is-- ,a sort of soup1 or broth1 or brew1 ,or hotch-potch of all sorts of fishes ,that ,greenwich never could outdo3 ,green herbs1 red peppers1 mussels1 saffron1 ,soles1 onions1 garlic1 roach1 and dace2 ,all these you eat at ,terr's tavern1 ,in that one dish of ,bouillabaisse4 ,avoid eels and herrings in this concoction as too oily4 ,soles1 mullet1 ,john ,dory1 whiting1 flounders1 perch1 roach1 and mussels will blend well1 and allow half a pound of fish for each person4 ,for every pound of fish put in the stewpan a pint of water1 a quarter of a pint of white wine1 and a tablespoonful of salad oil4 ,if there be four partakers1 add two sliced onions1 two cloves1 two bay-leaves1 two leeks 7the white part only1 chopped71 four cloves of garlic1 a tablespoonful chopped parsley1 a good squeeze of lemon juice1 half an ounce of chopped capsicums1 a teaspoonful 7or more ad lib47 of saffron1 with pepper and salt4 ,mix the chopped fish in all this1 and boil for half an hour4 ,let the mixture gallop and strain into a tureen with sippets1 and the fish served separately4 ,tournedos4--,no relation to tornado1 and you won't find the word in any ,gallic dictionary4 ,a tournedos is a thin collop of beef1 steeped in a marinade for twenty-four hours 7personally ,i prefer it without the aid of the marine7 and fried lightly4 ,turn it but once4 ,the oyster atop is simply scalded4 ,try this dish4 ,bisque4--,in the seventeenth century this was made from pigeons by the poor barbarians who knew not the gentle lobster1 nor the confiding crayfish4 ,heat up to boiling-point a ,mirepoix of white wine4 ,you don't know what a ,mirepoix is8 ,simply a faggot of vegetables1 named after a notorious cuckold of noble birth in the time of ,louis ,,xv4 ,two carrots1 two onions1 two shalots1 two bay-leaves1 a sprig of thyme and a clove of garlic4 ,mince very small1 with half a pound of fat bacon1 half a pound of raw ham1 pepper and salt1 and a little butter4 ,add a sufficiency of white wine4 ,in this mixture cook two dozen crayfish for twenty minutes1 continually tossing them about till red1 when take them out to cool4 ,shell them1 all but the claws1 which should be pounded in a mortar and mixed with butter4 ,the flesh of the tails is reserved to be put in the soup at the last minute2 the body-flesh goes back into the mirepoix1 to which two quarts of broth are now added4 ,add the pounded shells to the soup1 simmer for an hour and a half1 strain1 heat up1 add a piece of butter1 the tails1 a seasoning of cayenne1 and a few quenelles of whiting4 ,vol-au-vent ,financire4--,this always reminds me of the fearful threat hurled by the waiter in the ,bab ,ballads at his flighty sweetheart3 ,flirtez toujours1 ma belle1 si tu oses1 ,je me vengerai ainsi1 ma chre3 ,je lui dirai d'quoi on compose ,vol-au-vent la ,financire6 ,make your crust--light as air1 and flaky as snow1 an you value your situation--and fill with button mushrooms1 truffles1 cock's-combs1 quenelles of chicken1 and sweetbread1 all chopped1 seasoned1 and moistened with a butter sauce4 ,brown gravy is objectionable4 ,garnish the ,vol with fried parsley1 which goes well with most luxuries of this sort4 ,there are some words which occur frequently in ,french cookery which1 to the ordinary perfidious ,briton1 are cruelly misleading4 ,for years ,i was under the impression that ,brillat ,savarin was a species of filleted fish 7brill7 in a rich gravy1 instead of a ,french magistrate1 who treated gastronomy poetically1 and always ate his food too fast4 ,and only within the last decade have ,i discovered what a ,pr ,sal really means4 ,literally1 it is salt meadow1 or marsh4 ,it is said that sheep fed on a salt marsh make excellent mutton2 but is it not about time for ,britannia1 the alleged pride of the ocean1 and ruler of its billows1 to put her foot down and protest against a leg of prime ,down--but recently landed from the ,antipodes--being described on the card as a ,gigot de pr sal8 ,the meals1 like the ways1 of the ,heathen ,chinee are peculiar4 ,some of his food1 to quote poor ,corney ,grain1 is absolutely beastly4 ,li ,hung ,chang was welcomed to ,carlton ,house ,terrace1 ,london1 with a dinner1 in twelve courses1 the following being the principal items3--,roast duck1 roast pork and raspberry jam1 followed by dressed cucumber4 ,shrimps were devoured1 armour and all1 with leeks1 gherkins1 and mushrooms4 ,a couple of young chickens preserved in wine and vinegar1 with green peas1 a pure of pigeon's legs followed by an assortment of sour jellies4 ,the banquet concluded with sponge cakes and tea4 ,in his own land the ,chinaman's ,evening ,repast is much more variegated than the above4 ,it is almost as long as a ,chinese drama1 and includes melon seeds1 bitter almonds1 bamboo sprouts1 jelly-fish1 cucumber1 roast duck1 chicken stewed in spirit dregs1#d peas1 prawns1 sausages1 scallions1 fish-brawn1 pork chops1 plum blossoms1 oranges1 bird's-nest soup1 pigeons' eggs in bean curd--the eggs being postponed ones--fungus1 shrimps1 macerated fish-fins1 ham in flour1 ham in honey1 turnip cakes1 roast sucking-pig1 fish maws1 roast mutton1 wild ducks' feet1 water chestnuts1 egg rolls1 lily seeds1 stewed mushrooms1 dressed crab with jam1 chrysanthemum pasties1 bche-de-mer1 and pigs' feet in honey4 ,can it be wondered at that this nation should have been brought to its knees by gallant little ,japan8 ,the ,englishman in ,china has not a particularly good time of it1 in the gastronomic way1 and ,h4,m4 forces in ,hong ,kong are largely dependent on ,shanghai for supplies4 ,there is plenty pig all over the land2 but the dairy-fed pork of old ,england is preferable4 ,and the way this little pig goes to market savours so strongly of the most refined cruelty that a branch of the ,r4,s4,p4,c4,a4 would have the busiest of times of it over yonder4 ,reverting to ,french cookery1 here is an appetising dish1 called a ,bernardin ,salmi4 ,it should be prepared in the dining-room1 before the eyes of the guests2 and ,grimod de la ,reyniere 7to whom the recipe was given by the prior of an abbey of ,bernardin monks7 recommends that the salmi should be conveyed to the mouth with a fork1 for fear of devouring one's fingers1 should they touch the sauce4 ,take three woodcocks1 underdone1 and cut them into neat portions4 ,on a silver dish bruise the livers and trails1 squeeze over them the juice of four 787 lemons1 and grate over them a little of the thin rind4 ,add the portions of woodcock1 seasoned with salt1 and--according to the prior--mixed spices and two teaspoonfuls of ,french mustard2 but the writer would substitute cayenne seul2 over all half a wine-glass of sherry2 and then put the dish over a spirit lamp4 ,when the mixture is nearly boiling1 add a tablespoonful of salad oil1 blow out the light1 and stir well4 ,four lemons are mentioned in this recipe1 as at the time it was written lemons were very small when cocks were in4 ,two imported lemons 7or limes7 will amply suffice nowadays4 ,a ,salmi of ,wild ,duck can be made almost in the same way1 but here the aid of that modern instrument the ,duck-,squeezer is necessary4 ,cut the best of the meat in slices1 off a lightly-roasted wild-duck1 after brought to table2 break up the carcase and place in a species of mill 7silver7 called a duck-squeezer1 which possesses a spout through which the richness of the animal escapes1 after being squeezed4 ,make a gravy of this liquor1 in a silver dish 7with a spirit lamp beneath71 added to a small pat of butter1 the juice of a lemon1 a tablespoonful of ,worcester sauce1 with cayenne and salt to taste1 and half a wine-glassful of port wine4 ,warm the meat through in this gravy1 which must not boil4 ,of course these two last-named dishes are only intended for bachelor-parties4 ,lovely woman must not be kept waiting for duck-squeezers or anything else4 ,the ,jesuits introduced the turkey into ,europe1 of which feat the ,jesuits need not boast too much2 for to some minds there be many better edible birds2 and the gobbler requires1 when roasted or boiled1 plenty of seasoning to make him palatable4 ,the ,french stuff him in his roasted state1 with truffles1 fat force-meat1 or chestnuts1 and invariably bard the bird--bard is old ,english as well as old ,french--with fat bacon4 ,the ,french turkey is also frequently brazed1 with an abundant mirepoix made with what their cooks call ,madre1 but which is really ,marsala4 ,it is only we ,english who boil the gobbler1 and stuff him 7or her1 for it is the hen who usually goes into the pot7 with oysters1 or force-meat1 with celery sauce4 ,probably the best parts of the turkey are his legs1 when grilled for breakfast1 and smothered with the sauce mentioned in one of the chapters on ,breakfast2 and ,pulled ,turkey makes an agreeable luncheon-dish1 or entre at dinner1 the breast-meat being pulled off the bone with a fork1 and fricasseed1 surrounded in the dish by the grilled thighs and pinions4 ,who introduced the turkey into ,america deponent sayeth not4 ,probably1 like ,topsy1 it growed there4 ,anyhow the bird is so familiar a table-companion in the ,states1 that ,americans1 when on tour in ,europe1 fight very shy of him4 ,tukkey1 sah1 cranberry sarce1 used to be the stereotyped reply of the black waiter when interrogated on the subject of the bill of fare4 ,coloured ,help is1 however1 gradually being ousted 7together with sulphur matches7 from the big hotels in ,new ,york1 where white waiting and white food are coming into1 or have come into1 regular use4 ,in fact1 with the occasional addition of one or other of such special dishes as terrapin1 soft-shell crab1 clam chowder1 and the everlasting pork and beans1 a dinner in ,new ,york differs very little at the time of writing 7#ahig7 from one in ,london4 ,the taste for ,clam ,chowder is an acquired one1 nor will stewed tortoise ever rank with thick turtle in ,british estimation1 although 'tis not the same tortoise which is used in ,london households to break the coals with4 ,a ,canvass-back ,duck1 if eaten in the land of his birth1 is decidedly the most delicately-flavoured of all the ,quack family4 ,his favourite food is said to be wild celery1 and his favoured haunts the neighbourhood of ,chesapeake ,bay1 from whose waters comes the much prized diamond-back terrapin1 which is sold at the rate of #ej or #fj the dozen4 ,the canvass-back duck1 however1 suffers in transportation2 in fact1 the tendency of the ice-house aboard ship is to rob all food of its flavour4 ,but however good be the living in ,new ,york ,city --where the hotels are the best in the world1 and whose ,mr4 ,delmonico can give points to all sorts and conditions of food caterers--it is a bit rough in the provinces4 ,there is a story told of a young actor1 on tour1 who struck a small town out ,west1 and put up at a small inn4 ,in the course of time dinner was served1 and the landlord waited at table4 ,the principal cover was removed1 disclosing a fine joint of coarsish1 indifferently-cooked beef4 ,our young actor was strangely moved at the sight4 ,what8 he cried4 ,beef again8 ,this is horrible6 ,i've seen no other food for months1 and ,i'm sick and tired of it4 ,i can't eat beef4 ,whereupon his host whipped out a huge six-shooter revolver1 and covering the recalcitrant beef-eater1 coolly remarked3 ,guess you kin6 ,but ,i don't believe that story1 any more than ,i believe the anecdote of the cowboys and the daylight let through the visitor who couldn't eat beans4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,dinner 7continued7 ,the combat deepens4 ,on ye brave1 ,the cordon bleu1 and then the grave6 ,wave1 landlord6 all thy menus wave1 ,and charge with all thy devilry6 ,french soup--,a regimental dinner--,a city banquet--,baksheesh--,aboard ship--,an ideal dinner--,cod's liver--,sleeping in the kitchen--,a fricandeau--,regimental messes--,peter the ,great--,napoleon the ,great--,victoria--,the ,iron ,duke--,mushrooms--,a medical opinion--,a ,north ,pole banquet--,dogs as food--,plain unvarnished fare--,the ,kent ,road cookery--,more beans than bacon4 ,what's in a name8 inquired the love-sick ,juliet4 ,what8 echoes the bad fairy ,ala4 ,after all the fuss made by the ,french over their soups1 we might expect more variety than is given us4 ,if it be true that we ,english have only one sauce1 it is equally true that our lively neighbours have only one soup--and that one is a broth4 ,it is known to the frequenters of restaurants under at least eleven different names ,brunoise1 ,jardinire1 ,printanier1 ,chiffonade1 ,macdoine1 ,julienne1 ,faubonne1 ,paysanne1 ,flamande1 ,mitonnage1 ,crote au ,pot1 and1 as ,sam ,weller would say1 ,it's the flavouring as does it4 ,it is simply bouillon1 plain broth1 and weak at that4 ,the addition of a cabbage1 or a leek1 or a common or beggar's crust1 will change a potage la ,jardinire into a ,crote au ,pot1 and vice versa4 ,great is ,ala2 and five hundred per cent is her profit6 ,the amount of money lavished by diners-about upon the productions of the alien chef would be ludicrous to consider1 were not the extravagance absolutely criminal4 ,the writer has partaken of about the most expensive dinner--,english for the most part1 with ,french names to the dishes--that could be put on the table1 the charge being 7including wines7 one guinea per mouth4 ,another banquet1 given by a gay youth who had acquired a large sum through ruining somebody else on the ,stock ,exchange--the meal positively reeking of ,ala--was charged for by the hotel manager at the rate of sixteen pounds per head1 also including wines4 ,i was told afterwards1 though ,i am still sceptical as to the veracity of the statement1 that the flowers on the table at that banquet cost alone more than #ge4 ,and only on the previous ,sunday1 our host's father--a just nobleman and a ,god-fearing--had delivered a lecture1 at a popular institution1 on ,thrift4 ,here follows the menu of the above-mentioned guinea meal1 ,a ,regimental ,dinner1 held at a well-known city house4 ,vins4 ,hors d',o,euvres4 ,crevettes4 ,thon ,marin4 ,beurre4 ,radis4 ,potages4 ,madre4 ,tortue ,claire et ,lie4 ,gras de ,tortue ,vert4 ,relevs de ,tortue4 ,ponche ,glac4 ,ailerons aux fines ,herbes4 ,ctelettes la ,prigueux4 ,poissons4 ,souch de ,saumon4 ,schloss ,johannisberg4 ,turbot au ,vin ,blanc4 ,blanchaille ,nature et ,kari4 ,entres4 ,amontillado4 ,suprme de ,ris de ,veau la ,princesse4 ,aspic de ,homard4 ,champagne4 ,relevs4 ,piper ,heidsieck1 #ahhd4 ,venaison1 ,sauce ,groseille4 ,boll et ,cie41 #ahhd4 ,york ,ham au ,champagne4 ,burgundy4 ,poulardes l',estragon4 ,romane1 #ahee4 ----- ,asperges4 ,haricots ,verts4 ,pommes ,rissolies4 ,rt4 ,port1 #ahea4 ,canetons de ,rouen4 ,entremets4 ,claret4 ,ananas la ,crole4 ,patisserie ,parisienne4 ,chteau ,loville4 ,geles ,panaches4 ,glace4 ,liqueurs4 ,souffls aux ,fraises4 ,dessert1 etc4 ,and some of the younger officers complained bitterly at having to pay #a3as4 for the privilege of larking over such a course6 ,there are only three faults ,i can find in the above programme3 7#a7 ,confusion to the man who expects the ,british ,army to swallow green fat in ,french4 7#b7 ,whitebait is far too delicately flavoured a fowl to curry4 7#c7 ,too much eating and drinking4 ,city ,dinners are for the most part an infliction 7or affliction7 on the diner4 ,with more than fourscore sitting at meat1 the miracle of the loaves and fishes is repeated--with1 frequently1 the fish left out4 ,i give you my word1 dear old chappie1 once exclaimed a gilded youth who had been assisting at one of these functions1 to the writer1 all ,i could get hold of1 during the struggle1 was an orange and a cold plate6 ,the great and powerful system of ,baksheesh1 of course1 enters largely into these public entertainments2 and the man who omits to fee the waiter in advance1 as a rule1 gets left4 ,bookmakers and others who go racing are the greatest sinners in this respect4 ,a well-known magnate of the betting-ring 7#ahif7 invariably1 after arriving at an hotel1 hunts up the chef1 and sheds upon him a fiver1 or a tenner1 according to the size of the house1 and the repute of its cookery4 ,and that metallician and his party are not likely to starve during their stay1 whatever may be the fate of those who omit to remember the ,commissariat ,department4 ,i have seen the same bookmaker carry1 with his own hands1 the remains of a great dish of ,hot-pot into the dining-room of his neighbours1 who had been ringing for a waiter1 and clamouring for food for the best part of an hour1 without effect4 ,the same system prevails aboard ship2 and the passenger who has not propitiated the head steward at the commencement of the voyage will not fare sumptuously4 ,the steamship companies may deny this statement2 but 'tis true nevertheless4 ,dinner ,afloat4 ,here is an average dinner-card during a life on the ocean wave3 ,julienne soup1 boiled salmon with shrimp sauce1 roast beef and ,yorkshire pudding1 jugged hare1 ,french beans la ,matre d',htel1 chicken curry1 roast turkey with pure of chestnuts1 fanchouettes 7what are they871 sausage rolls1 greengage tarts1 plum-puddings1 lemon-jellies1 biscuits and cheese1 fruit1 coffee4 ,plenty of variety here1 though some epicures might resent the presence of a sausage-roll 7the common or railway-station bag of mystery7 on the dinner table4 ,but since the carriage of live stock aboard passenger ships has been abandoned1 the living is not nearly as good2 for1 as before observed1 the tendency of the ice-house is to make all flesh taste alike4 ,civilisation has1 doubtless1 done wonders for us2 but most people prefer mutton to have a flavour distinct from that of beef4 ,my ,ideal ,dinner was partaken of in a little old-fashioned hostelry 7at the west end of ,london71 whose name the concentrated efforts of all the wild horses in the world would not extract4 ,familiarity breeds contempt1 and publicity oft kills that which is brought to light4 ,our host was a wine-merchant in a large way of business4 ,i can only promise you plain food1 good sirs1 he mentioned1 in advance--no foreign kick-shaws2 but everything done to a turn4 ,six of us started with clear turtle1 followed by a thick wedge out of the middle of a patriarchal codfish1 with plenty of liver4 ,and here a pause must be made4 ,in not one cookery-book known to mankind can be found a recipe for cooking the ,liver of a ,cod4 ,of course it should not be cooked with the fish1 but in a separate vessel4 ,the writer once went the rounds of the kitchens to obtain information on this point4 ',bout half-an-hour1 said one cook1 a hard-bitten looking food-spoiler4 ,ma foi6 ,i cook not at all the liver of the cod1 said an unshorn son of ,normandy4 ,he is for the malade only4 ,after asking a number of questions1 and a journey literally round the town1 the deduction made from the various answers was that a piece of liver enough for six people would take eighteen minutes1 after being placed in boiling water4 ,to continue with our dinner4 ,no sauce with the oysters1 but these simply scalded in their own liquor4 ,then came on a monster steak1 an inch thick1 cut from the rump immediately before being placed on the gridiron4 ,and here a word on the grilling of a steak4 ,we ,english place it nearer the fire than do our lively neighbours1 whose grills do not1 in consequence1 present that firm surface which is the charm of an ,english steak4 ,the late ,mr4 ,godfrey ,turner of the ,daily ,telegraph 7who was almost as great an authority as ,mr4 ,sala on gastronomies7 once observed to the writer1 ,never turn your steak1 or chop1 more than once4 ,though by no means a disciple of ,ala1 he was evidently a believer in the ,french method of grilling1 which leaves a sodden1 flabby surface on the meat4 ,the ,french cook only turns a steak once2 but if he had his gridiron as close to the fire as his ,english rival1 the chef would inevitably cremate his moreau d'boeuf4 ,i take it that in grilling1 as in roasting1 the meat should1 in the first instance1 almost touch the glowing embers4 ,we had nothing but horse-radish with our steak1 which was succeeded by golden plovers 7about the best bird that flies7 and marrow bones4 ,and a dig into a ripe ,stilton concluded a banquet which we would not have exchanged for the best efforts of ,francatelli himself4 ,yes--despite the efforts of the bad fairy ,ala1 the ,english method of cooking good food--if deftly and properly employed--is a long way the better method4 ,unfortunately1 through the fault of the ,english themselves1 this method is but seldom employed deftly or properly4 ,and at a cheap ,english eating-house the kitchen is usually as dirty and malodorous as at an inexpensive foreign restaurant4 ,as both invariably serve as sleeping apartments during the silent watches of the night1 this is1 perhaps1 not altogether to be wondered at4 ,but there is one plt in the ,french cookery book which is not to be sneered at1 or even condemned with faint praise4 ,a properly-dressed fricandeau is a dainty morsel indeed4 ,in fact the word fricand means1 in ,english1 dainty4 ,here is the recipe of the celebrated ,gouff for the ,,fricandeau3 ,three pounds of veal fillet1 trimmed1 and larded with fat bacon4 ,put in the glazing stewpan the trimmings1 two ounces of sliced carrot1 two ditto onion1 with pepper and salt4 ,lay the fricandeau on the top2 add half a pint of broth2 boil the broth till it is reduced and becomes thick and yellow2 add a pint and a half more broth1 and simmer for an hour and a quarter--the stewpan half covered4 ,then close the stewpan and put live coals on the top4 ,baste the fricandeau with the gravy--presumably after the removal of the dead coals--every four minutes till it is sufficiently glazed2 then take it out and place on a dish4 ,strain the gravy1 skim off the fat1 and pour over the meat4 ,it may be added that a spirit lamp beneath the dish is 7or should be7 de rigueur4 ,in their clubs1 those 7alleged7 gilded saloons of profligacy and debauchery1 favoured of the aristocracy1 men1 as a rule dine wisely1 and well1 and1 moreover1 cheaply4 ,the extravagant diner-out1 with his crude views on the eternal fitness of things1 selects an hotel1 or restaurant1 in the which1 although the food may be of the worst quality1 and the cookery of the greasiest1 the charges are certain to be on the millionaire scale4 ,for bad dinners1 like bad lodgings1 are invariably the dearest4 ,at the ,mess-,table of the ,british officer there is not much riot or extravagance nowadays1 and the food is but indifferently well cooked2 though there was a time when the youngest cornet would turn up his nose at anything commoner than a special cuve of champagne1 and would unite with his fellows in the bear-fight which invariably concluded a guest night1 and during which the messman1 or one of his myrmidons1 was occasionally placed atop of the ante-room fire4 ,and there was one messman who even preferred that mode of treatment to being lectured by his colonel4 ,said officer was starchy1 punctilious1 and long-winded1 and upon one occasion1 when the chaplain to the garrison was his guest at dinner1 addressed the terrified servant somewhat after this wise3 ,mr4 ,messman--,i have this evening bidden to our feast this eminent divine1 who prayeth daily that we may receive the fruits of the earth in due season2 to which ,i1 an humble layman1 am in the habit of responding3 ',we beseech thee to hear us1 good ,lord4' ,mr4 ,messman1 don't let me see those d----d figs on the table again4 ,at a military guest-night in ,india1 a turkey and a ,europe ham are--or were--de rigueur at table2 and on the whole the warrior fares well1 if the khansamah do not attempt luxuries4 ,his chicken cutlets are not despicable1 and we can even forgive the repetition of the vilolif but his bifisteakishtoo 7stewed steak7 is usually too highly-spiced for the ,european palate4 ,later in the evening1 however1 he will come out strong with duvlebone1 and grilled sardines in curlpapers4 ,the presence of the bagpipes1 in the mess-room of a ,highland regiment1 when men have well drunk1 is cruelly unkind--to the ,saxon guest at all events4 ,the bagpipe is doubtless a melodious instrument 7to trained ears71 but its melodies are apt to hum i' th' head o'er muckle ye ken1 after a course of haggis washed down with sparkling wines and old port4 ,tell me what a man eats1 said ,brillat ,savarin1 and ,i'll tell you what he is4 ,peter the ,great did not like the presence of listening lacqueys in the dining-room4 ,peter's favourite dinner was1 like himself1 peculiar3 ,a soup1 with four cabbages in it2 gruel2 pig1 with sour cream for sauce2 cold roast meat with pickled cucumbers or salad2 lemons and lamprey1 salt meat1 ham1 and ,limburg cheese4 ,lemons and lamprey must have had a roughish seat1 atop of pig and sour cream4 ,i once tasted lampreys--only once4 ,it was in ,worcestershire1 and said lampreys were stewed 7,i fancy7 in burgundy1 and served in a small tureen--en casserole1 our lively neighbours would have called the production1 which was grateful1 but much embarrassed with richness4 ,napoleon the ,great1 whose tastes were simple1 is said to have preferred a broiled breast of mutton to any other dinner-dish4 ,napoleon ,,iii41 however1 encouraged extravagance of living2 and ,zola tells us in ,le ,dbcle that the unfortunate emperor1 ill as he was1 used to sit down to so many courses of rich foods every night until the downfall arrived at ,sdan1 and that a train of cooks and scullions with 7literally7 a batterie de cuisine1 was attached to his staff4 ,her ,majesty ,queen ,victoria's dinner-table is invariably graced with a cold sirloin of beef1 amongst other joints2 and the same simple fare has satisfied the aspirations and gratified the palate of full many a celebrity4 ,the great ,duke of ,wellington was partial to a well-made ,irish stew2 and nothing delighted ,charles ,dickens more than a slice out of the breast of a hot roast-goose4 ,a word about the mushroom4 ,although said to be of enormous value in sauces and ragouts1 ,i shall always maintain that the mushroom is best when eaten all by his quaint self4 ,his flavour is so delicate that 'tis pitiful to mix him with fish1 flesh1 or fowl--more especially the first-named4 ,i have seen mushrooms and bacon cooked together1 and ,i have seen beef-steak 7cut into small pieces7 and bacon cooked together1 and it was with some difficulty that my ,irish host got me out of the kitchen4 ,if ever ,i am hanged1 it will be for killing a cook4 ,above all never eat mushrooms which you have not seen in their uncooked state4 ,the mushroom1 like the truffle1 loses more flavour the longer he is kept2 and to postpone either is fatal4 ,the plainer the meal the longer the life4 ,thus an eminent physician--already mentioned in these pages4 ,we begin with soup1 and perhaps a glass of cold punch1 to be followed by a piece of turbot1 or a slice of salmon with lobster sauce2 and while the venison or ,south-down is getting ready1 we toy with a piece of sweetbread1 and mellow it with a bumper of ,madeira4 ,no sooner is the mutton or venison disposed of1 with its never-failing accompaniments of jelly and vegetables1 than we set the whole of it in a ferment with champagne1 and drown it with hock and sauterne4 ,these are quickly followed by the wing and breast of a partridge1 or a bit of pheasant or wild duck2 and when the stomach is all on fire with excitement1 we cool it for an instant with a piece of iced pudding1 and then immediately lash it into a fury with undiluted alcohol in the form of cognac or a strong liqueur2 after which there comes a spoonful or so of jelly as an emollient1 a morsel of ripe ,stilton as a digestant1 a piquant salad to whet the appetite for wine1 and a glass of old port to persuade the stomach1 if it can1 into quietness4 ,all these are more leisurely succeeded by dessert1 with its baked meats1 its fruits1 and its strong drinks1 to be afterwards muddled with coffee1 and complicated into a rare mixture with tea1 floating with the richest cream4 ,hoity1 toity6 ,and not a word about a ,french plt1 or even a curry1 either6 ,but we must remember that this diatribe comes from a gentleman who has laid down the theory that cold water is not only the cheapest of beverages1 but the best4 ,exception1 too1 may be taken to the statement that a piquant salad whets the appetite for wine4 ,i had always imagined that a salad--and1 indeed1 anything with vinegar in its composition--rather spoilt the human palate for wine than otherwise4 ,and what sort of baked meats are usually served with desert8 ,how the ,poor ,live4 ,an esteemed friend who has seen better days1 sends word how to dine a man1 his wife1 and three children for #g;d4 ,he heads his letter ,the ,kent ,road ,cookery4 ,a stew is prepared with the following ingredients3 #a lb4 bullock's cheek 7#c;d471 pint white beans 7#a;d471 pint lentils 7#a;d471 pot-herbs 7#a;d471 #b lb4 potatoes 7#a;d47--,total #g;d4 ,when he has friends1 the banquet is more expensive3 #a lb4 bullock's cheek 7#c;d471 lb4 cow-heel 7#b;d471 lb4 leg of beef 7#c;d471 #a pint white beans 7#b;d471 pint lentils 7#a;d471 pot-herbs 7#a;d471 #e lb4 potatoes 7#b;d47--total #as4 #c;d4 ,as we never know what may happen1 the above menus may come in useful4 ,doctor ,nansen's ,banquet on the ice-floe1 to celebrate his failure to discover the ,pole1 was simple enough1 at all events4 ,but it would hardly commend itself to the fin de sicle ,johnny4 ,there was raw gull in it1 by way of a full-flavoured combination of poisson and entre2 there was meat chocolate in it1 and peli--,i should say1 pemmican4 ,there were pancakes1 made of oatmeal and dog's blood1 fried in seal's blubber4 ,and ,i rather fancy the relev was ,chien au nature4 ,for in his most interesting work1 ,across ,greenland1 ,doctor ,nansen has inserted the statement that the man who turns his nose up at raw dog for dinner is unfit for an ,arctic expedition4 ,for my own poor part1 ,i would take my chance with a ,porterhouse steak1 cut from a ,polar bear4 ,prison ,fare4 ,another simple meal4 ,any visitor to one of ,h4,m4 penitentiaries may have noticed in the cells a statement to the effect that beans and bacon may be substituted for meat1 for the convicts' dinners1 on certain days4 ,beans and bacon sounds rural1 if not absolutely bucolic4 ,fancy giving such good food to the wretches6 once exclaimed a lady visitor4 ,but those who have sampled the said beans and bacon say that it is hardly to be preferred to the six ounces of ,australian dingo or the coarse suet-duff 7plumless7 which furnish the ordinary prison dinner4 ,for the tablespoonful of pappy beans with which the captive staves off starvation are of the genus haricot2 and the parallelogram of salted hog's-flesh which accompanies the beans does not exceed1 in size1 the ordinary railway ticket4 ,,chapter ,x ,,vegetables ,herbs and other country messes1 ,which the neat-handed ,phyllis dresses4 ,use and abuse of the potato--,its eccentricities--,its origin--,hawkins1 not ,raleigh1 introduced it into ,england--,with or without the jacket8--,don't let it be -la-ed--,benevolence and large-heartedness of the cabbage family--,peas on earth--,pythagoras on the bean--,giving him beans--,haricot a misnomer--,borston beans--,frijoles--,the carrot--,crcy soup--,the ,prince of ,wales--,the ,black ,prince and the ,king of ,bohemia4 ,item1 the ,,potato1 earth-apple1 murphy1 or spud2 the most useful1 as well as the most exasperating gift of a bountiful ,providence4 ,those inclined to obesity may skip the greater part of this chapter4 ,you can employ a potato for almost anything4 ,it comes in very handy for the manufacture of starch1 sugar1 ,irish stew1 ,scotch whisky1 and ,colorado beetles4 ,cut it in half1 and with one half you restore an old master1 and with the other drive the cat from the back garden4 ,more deadly battles have been waged over the proper way to cook a potato1 than over a parish boundary1 or an ,irish eviction4 ,strong-headed men hurl the spud high in air1 and receive and fracture it on their frontal bones2 whilst a juggler like ,paul ,cinquevalli can do what he likes with it4 ,worn inside the pocket1 it is an infallible cure for chronic rheumatism1 fits1 and tubercular meningitis4 ,worn inside the body it will convert a living skeleton into a ,daniel ,lambert4 ,plant potatoes in a game district1 and if they come up you will find that after the haulms have withered you can capture all your rich neighbour's pheasants1 and half the partridges in the country4 ,a nicely-baked potato1 deftly placed beneath the root of his tail1 will make the worst jibber in the world travel2 whilst1 when combined with buttermilk1 and a modicum of meal1 the earth-apple has been known to nourish millions of the rising generation1 and to give them sufficient strength and courage to owe their back rents1 and accuracy of aim for exterminating the brutal owner of the soil4 ,the waiter1 bless ye6 the harmless1 flat-footed waiter1 doesn't know all this4 ,potatoes to him are simply #b;d4 or #c;d4 in the little account1 according to whether they be biled1 mash1 or soty2 and if questioned as to the natural history of the floury tuber1 he would probably assume an air of injured innocence1 and assure you that during his reign of thirty-five year1 man and boy1 that establishment had never 'ad no complaints4 ,the potato is most eccentric in disposition1 and its cultivator should know by heart the beautiful ode of ,horace which commences ,aequam memento rebus in arduis 4 4 4 ,the experiences of the writer as a potato grower have been somewhat mixed1 and occasionally like the following3--,set your snowflakes in deeply-trenched1 heavily-manured ground1 a foot apart4 ,in due time you will get a really fine crop of groundsel1 charlock1 and slugs1 with enough bind-weed to strangle the sea-serpent4 ,clear all this rubbish off1 and after a week or two the eye will be gladdened with the sight of the delicate green leaf of the tuber peeping through the soil4 ,slow music4 ,enter the ,earl of ,frost4 ,no2 they will not all be cut off4 ,you will get one tuber4 ,peel it carefully1 and place it in the pig-stye--the peeling spoils the quality of the pork4 ,throw the peeling away--on the bed in which you have sown annuals for choice--and in the late ,spring you will have a row of potatoes which will do you credit4 ,but this is frivolous4 ,the origin of the potato is doubtful2 but that it was used by the ancients1 in warfare1 is tolerably certain4 ,long before the ,spaniards reached the ,new ,world it was cultivated largely by the ,incas2 and it was the ,spaniards who brought the tuber to ,europe1 in the beginning of the sixteenth century4 ,it was brought to ,england from ,virginia by ,sir ,john ,hawkins in #aefc2 and again in #aehf by ,sir ,francis ,drake1 to whom1 as the introducer of the potato1 a statue was erected at ,offenburg1 in ,baden1 in #ahec4 ,in schools and other haunts of ignorance1 the credit for the introduction of the tuber used to be and is 7,i believe7 still given to ,sir ,walter ,raleigh1 who has been wrongly accredited with as many good things as have been ,theodore ,hook or ,sidney ,smith4 ,and ,i may mention en parenthse1 that ,i don't entirely believe that cloak story4 ,for many years the tuber was known in ,england as the ,batata--overhaul your ,lorna ,doone--and in ,france1 until the close of the eighteenth century1 the earth apple was looked upon with suspicion1 as the cause of leprosy and assorted fevers2 just as the tomato1 at the close of the more civilised nineteenth century1 is said by the vulgar and swine-headed to breed cancer4 ,now then1 ,with or without the jacket8 ,and the reader who imagines that ,i am going to answer the question has too much imagination4 ,as the old butler in ,wilkie ,collins's ,the ,moonstone observes1 there is much to be said on both sides4 ,personally ,i lean to the no-jacket side1 unless the tuber be baked2 and ,i would make it penal to serve a potato in any other way than boiled1 steamed1 or baked4#e ,the bad fairy ,ala should have no hand in its manipulation2 and there be few sthetic eaters who would not prefer the old-fashioned ball of flour to slices of the sodden article swimming in a bath of grease and parsley1 and called a ,saut4 ,the horrible concoction yclept preserved potatoes1 which used to be served out aboard sailing vessels1 after the passengers had eaten all the real articles1 and which tasted like bad pease-pudding dressed with furniture polish1 is1 happily1 deceased4 ,and the best potatoes1 the same breed which our fathers and our forefathers munched in the ,covent ,garden ,cave of ,harmony1 grow1 ,i am credibly informed1 in ,jermyn ,street4 ,moreover if you wish to spoil a dish of good spuds1 there is no surer way than by leaving on the dish-cover4 ,so much for boiling 'em--or steaming 'em4 ,the ,,cabbage is a fine1 friendly fellow1 who makes himself at home1 and generally useful1 in the garden2 whilst his great heart swells1 and swells1 in the full knowledge that he is doing his level best to please all4 ,though cut down in the springtime of his youth1 his benevolence is so great that he will sprout again from his headless trunk1 if required1 and given time for reflection4 ,the ,romans introduced him into ,great ,britain1 but there was a sort of cow-cabbage in the island before that time which our blue forefathers used to devour with their bacon1 and steaks1 in a raw state4 ,the most evolved and final variety of the cabbage1 writes a savant1 is the ,,cauliflower1 in which the vegetative surplus becomes poured into the flowering head1 of which the flowering is more or less checked2 the inflorescence becoming a dense corymb instead of an open panicle1 and the majority of the flowers aborting--the head gardener usually tells you all this in the ,scottish language--so as to become incapable of producing seed4 ,let a specially vegetative cabbage repeat the excessive development of its leaf parenchyma1 and we have the wrinkled and blistered ,,savoy1 of which the hardy constitution1 but comparative coarseness1 become also more intelligible2 again a specially vegetative cauliflower gives us an easily grown and hardy winter variety1 ,,broccoli--,broccilo in ,costerese--from which1 and not from the ordinary cauliflower1 a sprouting variety arises in turn4 ,in ,jersey the cabbage-stalks are dried1 varnished1 and used as spars for thatched roofs1 as also for the correction of the youthful population4 ,cook all varieties of the cabbage in water already at the boil1 with a little salt and soda in it4 ,the ,french sprinkle cheese on a cauliflower1 to make it more tasty1 and it then becomes ,choufleur a ,gratin4 ,remove the green leaves1 and underboil your cauliflower4 ,pour over it some butter sauce in which have been mixed two ounces of grated cheese--half ,gruyre and half ,parmesan4 ,powder with bread crumbs1 or raspings1 and with more grated cheese4 ,lastly1 pour over it a teaspoonful of oiled butter4 ,place in a hot oven and bake till the surface is a golden brown1 which should be in from ten to fifteen minutes4 ,serve in same dish4 ,vegetarians should be particularly careful to soak every description of cabbage in salt and water before cooking4 ,otherwise the vegetarians will probably eat a considerable portion of animal food4 ,here occurs an opportunity for the recipe for an elegant dish1 which the ,french call ,perdrix aux ,choux1 which is simply ,partridge ,stewed with ,cabbage1 etc4 ,a brace of birds browned in the stewpan with butter or good dripping1 and a portion of a hand of pickled pork in small pieces1 some chopped onion and a clove or two4 ,add some broth1 two carrots 7chopped71 a bay-leaf1 and a chopped sausage or two4 ,then add a ,savoy cabbage1 cut into quarters1 and seasoned with pepper and salt4 ,let all simmer together for an hour and a half4 ,then drain the cabbage1 and place it1 squashed down1 on a dish4 ,arrange the birds in the middle1 surround them with the pieces of pork and sausage1 and pour over all the liquor from the stew4 ,this is an excellent dish1 and savours more of ,teutonic than of ,french cooking4 ,but you mustn't tell a ,frenchman this1 if he be bigger than yourself4 ,the toothsome ,,pea has been cultivated in the ,east from time immemorial1 though the ancient ,greeks and ,romans do not appear to have had knowledge of such a dainty4 ,had ,vitellius known the virtues of duck and green peas he would probably have not been so wrapt up in his favourite dormice1 stuffed with poppy-seed and stewed in honey4 ,the ancient ,egyptians knew all about the little pulse1 and not one of the leaders of society was mummified without a pod or two being placed amongst his wrappings4 ,and after thousand of years said peas1 when sown1 have been known to germinate4 ,the mummy pea-plant1 however1 but seldom bears fruit4 ,our idiotic ancestors1 the ancient ,britons1 knew nothing about peas1 nor do any of their descendants appear to have troubled about the vegetable before the reign of the ,virgin ,queen4 ,then they were imported from ,holland1 together with schnapps1 curaoa1 and other things1 and no swagger banquet was held without a dish of fresh-shelled 'uns1 which were accounted fit dainties for ladies1 they came so far and cost so dear4 ,in ,england up-to-date peas are frequently accompanied by pigeon pie at table2 the dove family being especially partial to the little pulse1 either when attached to the haulm1 in the garden1 or in a dried state4 ,so that the crafty husbandman1 who possesses a shot gun1 frequently gathereth both pea and pigeon4 ,a chalky soil is especially favourable to pea cultivation2 and deal sawdust sprinkled well over the rows immediately after the setting of the seed will frustrate the knavish tricks of the field mouse1 who also likes peas4 ,the man who discovered the affinity between mint and this vegetable ought to have received a gold medal1 and ,i would gladly attend the execution of the caitiff who invented the tinned peas which we get at the foreign restaurants1 at three times the price of the ,english article4 ,here is a good simple recipe for ,,pea ,,soup1 made from the dried article3 ,soak a quart of split peas in rain-water for twelve hours4 ,put them in the pot with one carrot1 one onion1 one leek1 a sprig or two of parsley 7all chopped71 one pound of streaky bacon1 and three quarts of the liquor in which either beef1 mutton1 pork1 or poultry may have been boiled4 ,boil for nearly three hours1 remove the bacon1 and strain the soup through a tammy4 ,heat up1 and serve with dried mint1 and small cubes of fat bacon fried crisp4 ,,green-,,pea ,,soup is made in precisely the same way2 but the peas will not need soaking beforehand1 and thrifty housewives put in the shells as well4 ,harmless and nutritious a vegetable as the ,,bean would appear to be1 it did not altogether find favour with the ancients4 ,pythagoras1 who had quaint ideas on the subject of the human soul1 forbade his disciples to eat beans1 because they were generated in the foul ooze out of which man was created4 ,lucian1 who had a vivid imagination1 describes a philosopher in ,hades who was particularly hard on the bean1 to eat which he declared was as great a crime as to eat one's father's head4 ,and yet ,lucian was accounted a man of common sense in his time4 ,the ,romans only ate beans at funerals1 being under the idea that the souls of the dead abode in the vegetable4 ,according to tradition1 the caller herrin' hawked in the streets of ,edinburgh were once known as lives o' men1 from the risks run by the fishermen4 ,and the ,romans introduced the bean into ,england by way of cheering up our blue forefathers4 ,in the ,roman festival of ,lemuralia1 the father of the family was accustomed to throw black beans over his head1 whilst repeating an incantation4 ,this ceremony probably inspired ,lucian's philosopher--for whom1 however1 every allowance should be made1 when we come to consider his place of residence--with his jaundiced views of the ,faba vulgaris4 ,curiously enough1 amongst the vulgar folk1 at the present day1 there would seem to be some sort of prejudice against the vegetable2 or why should ,i'll give him beans be a synonymous threat with ,i'll do him all the mischief ,i can8 ,there is plenty of nourishment in a bean2 that is the opinion of the entire medical faculty4 ,and whilst beans and bacon make a favourite summer repast for the farm-labourer and his family1 the dish is also 7at the commencement of the bean season7 to be met with at the tables of the wealthy4 ,the aroma of the flower of the broad bean was once compared1 in one of ,john ,leech's studies in ,punch1 to the most delicious 'air oil1 but1 apart from this fragrance1 there is but little sentiment about the ,faba vulgaris4 ,a much more graceful vegetable is the ,phaseolus vulgaris1 the kidney1 or1 as the idiotic ,french call it1 the haricot bean4 ,it is just as sensible to call a leg of ,welsh mutton a pr sal1 or salt meadow4 ,no well-behaved hashed venison introduces himself to our notice unless accompanied by a dish of kidney beans4 ,and few people in ,europe besides ,frenchmen and convicts eat the dried seeds of this form of bean1 which is frequently sown in suburban gardens to form a fence to keep out cats4 ,but the suburban cat knows a trick worth a dozen of that one2 and no bean that was ever born will arrest his progress1 or turn him from his evil ways4 ,it is criminal to smother the kidney bean with melted butter at table4 ,a little oil1 vinegar1 and pepper agree with him much better4 ,in the great continent of ,america1 the kidney-bean seed1 dried1 is freely partaken of4 ,pork and ,borston beans1 in fact1 form the national dish1 and right good it is4 ,but do not attempt any violent exercise after eating the same4 ,the ,mexicans are the largest bean-eaters in the world4 ,they fry the vegetables in oil or stew them with peppers and onions1 and these frijoles form the principal sustenance of the lower orders4 ,an ,english bean feast 7,vulg4 beano7 is a feast at which no beans1 and not many other things1 are eaten4 ,the intelligent foreigner may take it that beano simply means the worship of ,bacchus4 ,with the exception of the onion there is no more useful aid to cookery of all sorts than the lowly carrot1 which was introduced into ,england--no1 not by the ,romans--from ,holland1 in the sixteenth century4 ,and the ladies who attended the court of ,charles ,i4 were in the habit of wearing carrot leaves in the hair1 and on their court robes1 instead of feathers4 ,a similar fashion might be revived at the present epoch1 with advantage to the banking account of vile man4 ,as the ,flemish gardeners brought over the roots1 we should not despise carrots cooked in the ,,flemish way4 ,simmer some young carrots in butter1 with pepper and salt4 ,add cream 7or milk and yolk of eggs71 a pinch of sugar1 and a little chopped parsley4 ,h4,r4,h4 the ,prince of ,wales1 according to report1 invariably eats carrot soup on the #bfth of ,august4 ,the ,french call it ,,cr,,cy soup1 because their best carrots grow there2 and ,crcy it may be remembered was also the scene of a great battle1 when one ,englishman proved better than five ,frenchmen4 ,in this battle the ,black ,prince performed prodigies of valour1 afterwards assuming the crest of the late ,bohemian ,king--three ostrich feathers 7surely these should be carrot tops87 with the motto ,ich ,dien4 ,crcy ,soup4 ,place a mirepoix of white wine in the pot1 and put a quantity of sliced carrots atop4 ,moisten with broth1 and keep simmering till the carrots are done4 ,then pour into a mortar1 pound1 and pass through a tammy4 ,thin it with more broth1 sweeten in the proportion of one tablespoonful of sugar to two gallons of soup2 heat up1 pop a little butter in at the finish1 and in serving it add either small cubes of fried bread1 or rice boiled as for curry 7see page #ade74 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,vegetables 7continued7 ,earth's simple fruits2 we all enjoy them4 ,then why with sauces rich alloy them8 ,the brief lives of the best--,a vegetable with a pedigree--,argenteuil--,the ,elysian ,fields--,the tomato the emblem of love--,neeps--,spinach--,stomach-brush-- ,the savoury tear-provoker--,invaluable for wasp-stings--,celery merely cultivated smallage--,the ,apium--,the parsnip--,o ,jerusalem6--,the golden sunflower--,how to get pheasants--,a vegetarian banquet--,swelling wisibly4 ,it is one of the most exasperating laws and ordinations of ,nature that the nicest things shall last the shortest time4 ,whom the gods love die young1 is an ancient proverb2 and the produce of the garden which is most agreeable to man invariably gives out too soon4 ,look at peas4 ,every gardener of worth puts in the seed so that you may get the different rows of marrow-fats and telephones and ne plus ultras in succession2 and up they all come1 at one and the same time1 whilst1 if you fail to pick them all at once1 the combined efforts of mildew and the sun will soon save you the labour of picking them at all4 ,look at strawberries2 and why can't they stay in our midst all the year round1 like the various members of the cabbage family8 ,then look at ,,asparagus4 ,the gardener who could persuade the heads of this department to pop up in succession1 from ,january to ,december would earn more money than the ,prime ,minister4 ,the favourite vegetable of the ancient ,romans was introduced by them1 with their accustomed unselfishness1 into ,britain1 where it has since flourished--more particularly in the alluvial soil of the ,thames valley in the neighbourhood of ,mortlake and ,richmond1 ground which is also especially favourable to the growth of celery4 ,in an ancient work called ,de ,re ,rustica1 ,cato the ,elder1 who was born #bcd ,b4,c41 has much to say--far more1 indeed1 than ,i can translate without the aid of a dictionary or crib--about the virtues and proper cultivation of asparagus2 and ,pliny1 another noble ,roman1 devotes several chapters of his ,natural ,history 7published at the commencement of the ,christian era7 to the same subject4 ,of all the productions of your garden says this ,mr4 ,pliny1 your chief care will be your asparagus4 ,and the cheerful and sanguine householder of to-day who sows his asparagus1 and expects to get it while he waits has ample consolation for disappointment in the reflection that his labours will benefit posterity1 if not the next tenant4 ,the foreigners can beat us for size1 in the matter of asparagus2 but ours is a long way in front for flavour4 ,in ,france the vegetable is very largely grown at ,argenteuil on the ,seine1 a district which has also produced1 and still produces1 a wine which is almost as dangerous to man as hydrocyanic acid1 and which was invariably served in the restaurants1 after the sitting had been a lengthy one1 no matter what special brand might have been ordered4 ,english hosts play the same game with their military ports and inferior sherries4 ,the ,argenteuil asparagus is now grown between the vines--at least #ajjj acres are in cultivation--hence the peculiar flavour which1 however grateful it may be to ,frenchmen1 is somewhat sickly and not to be compared with that of the little gentleman in ,green1 nearly the whole of whom we ,english can consume with safety to digestion4 ,according to ,greek mythology1 asparagus grew in the ,elysian fields2 but whether the blessed took oil and vinegar with it1 or the bill-sticker's paste1 so favoured in middle-class kitchens of to-day1 there is no record4 ,it goes best1 however1 with a plain salad dressing--a spot of mustard worked into a tablespoonful of oil1 and a dessert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar1 with pepper and salt ad lib4 ,asparagus is no longer known in the ,british pharmacopoeia1 but the ,french make large medicinal use of its root1 which is supposed to still the action of the heart1 like foxglove1 and to act as a preventive of calculi4 ,in cooking the vegetable1 tie in small bundles1 which should be stood on end in the saucepan1 so that the delicate heads should be steamed1 and not touched by the boiling water4 ,many cooks will contest this point2 which1 however1 does not admit of argument4 ,there was once a discussion in a well-known hostelry1 as to whether the ,tomato was a fruit or a vegetable4 ,eventually the head-waiter was invited to solve the great question4 ,he did so on the spot4 ,tumarter1 sir8 ,tumarter's a hextra4 ,and as a hextra it has never since that period ceased to be regarded4 ,a native of ,south ,america1 the plant was introduced into ,europe by the ,spaniards1 late in the sixteenth century1 and the ,english got it in #aeif4 ,still until a quarter of a century ago the tomato has not been largely cultivated1 save by the market gardener2 in fact in private gardens it was conspicuous by its absence4 ,those who eat it do not invariably succumb to cancer2 and the dyspeptic should always keep it on the premises4 ,as the tomato is also known as the love-apple1 a great point was missed by our old friend ,sergeant ,buzfuz1 in the celebrated ,bardell v4 ,pickwick trial1 when referring to the postscript1 chops1 and tomato sauce4 ,possibly ,charles ,dickens was not an authority on veget---- ,i beg pardon1 hextras4 ,here is a ,french recipe for ,tomate au ,gratin3 ,cut open the tops and scoop out the pulp4 ,pass it through a sieve1 to clear away the pips1 and mix with it either a modicum of butter1 or oil1 some chopped shalot and garlic1 with pepper and salt4 ,simmer the mixture for a quarter of an hour1 then stir in some bread-crumbs1 previously soaked in broth1 and some yolks of egg4 ,when cold1 fill the tomato skins with the mixture1 shake some fine bread raspings over each1 and bake in quick oven for ten or twelve minutes4 ,the ,turnip is not1 as might be sometimes imagined1 entirely composed of compressed deal splinters1 but is a vegetable which was cultivated in ,india long before the ,britons got it4 ,the ,scotch call turnips neeps2 but the ,scotch will do anything4 ,probably no member of the vegetable family is so great a favourite with the insect pests sent on earth by an all-wise ,providence to prevent mankind having too much to eat4 ,but see that you get a few turnips to cook when there is roast duck for dinner4 ,spinach was introduced into ,spain by the ,arabs1 and as neither nation possessed at that time1 at all events1 the attribute of extra-cleanliness1 they must have eaten a great deal of matter in the wrong place1 otherwise known as dirt4 ,for if ever there was a vegetable the preparation of which for table would justify any cook in giving notice to leave1 it is spinach4 ,the ,germans have nick-named it stomach-brush1 and there is no plant growing which conduces more to the health of man4 ,but there has been more trouble over the proper way to serve it at table than over ,armenia4 ,the ,french chop up their pinards and mix butter1 or gravy1 with the mess4 ,many ,english1 on the other hand1 prefer the leaves cooked whole4 ,it is all a matter of taste4 ,but ,i seem to scent a soft1 sweet fragrance in the air1 a homely and health-giving reek1 which warns me that ,i have too long neglected to touch upon the many virtues of the ,onion4 ,indigenous to ,india in the form of ,garlic 7or gar-leek1 the original onion71 the ,egyptians got hold of the tear-provoker and cultivated it #bjjj years before the ,christian era4 ,so that few of the mortals of whom we have ever read can have been ignorant of the uses of the onion1 or gar-leek4 ,but knowledge and practice have enabled modern gardeners to produce larger bulbs than even the most imaginative of the ancients can have dreamt of4 ,to mention all the uses to which the onion is put in the kitchen would be to write a book too weighty for any known motive power to convey to the ,british ,museum2 but it may be briefly observed of the juice of the ,cepa that it is invaluable for almost any purpose1 from flavouring a dish fit to set before a king1 to the alleviation of the inflammation caused by the poison-bearing needle which the restless wasp keeps for use within his1 or her1 tail4 ,in fact1 the inhabited portion of the globe had better be without noses than without onions4 ,like the tomato1 ,,celery is a hextra--and a very important one4 ,if you buy the heads at half-a-crown per hundred and sell them at threepence a portion1 it will not exercise your calculating powers to discover the profits which can be made out of this simple root4 ,celery is simply cultivated smallage2 a weed which has existed in ,britain since the age of ice4 ,it was the ,italians who made the discovery that educated smallage would become celery2 and it is worthy of note that their forefathers1 the conquerors of the world1 with the ,greeks1 seem to have known no touch of it--as a relish1 at all events2 though some writers will have it that the ,apium1 with which the victors at the ,isthmian and other games were crowned was not parsley but the leaf of the celery plant4 ,but what does it matter8 ,celery is invaluable as a flavourer1 and when properly cultivated1 and not stringy1 a most delightful and satisfactory substance to bite4 ,in fact a pretty woman never shows to more advantage than when nibbling a crisp1 short head of celery--provided she possess pretty teeth4 ,with boiled turkey1 or ditto pheasant1 celery sauce is de rigueur2 and it should be flavoured slightly with slices of onion1 an ounce of butter being allowed to every head of celery4 ,the ,french are fond of it stewed2 and as long as the flavour of the gravy1 or jus1 does not disguise the flavour of the celery1 it is excellent when thus treated4 ,its merits in a salad will be touched upon in another chapter4 ,the ,,parsnip is a native of ,england1 where it is chiefly used to make an inferior kind of spirit1 or a dreadful brand of wine4 ,otherwise few people would trouble to cultivate the parsnip2 for we can't be having boiled pork or salt fish for dinner every day4 ,the ,,vegetable ,,marrow is a member of the pumpkin family and is a comparatively tasteless occupant of the garden1 its appearance in which heralds the departure of summer4 ,in the suburbs1 if you want to annoy the people next door1 you cannot do better than put in a marrow plant or two4 ,if they come to anything1 and get plenty of water1 they will crawl all over your neighbour's premises2 and unless he is fond of the breed1 and cuts and cooks them1 they make him mad4 ,the frugal housewife1 blessed with a large family1 makes jam of the surplus marrows2 but ,i prefer a conserve of apricot1 gooseberry1 or greengage4 ,another purpose to which to put this vegetable is-- ,scoop out the seeds1 after cutting it in half1 lengthways4 ,fill the space with minced veal 7cooked71 small cubes of bacon1 and plenty of seasoning--some people add the yoke of an egg--put on the other half marrow1 and bake for half-an-hour4 ,this ,,baked ,,marrow is a cheap and homely dish which1 like many another savoury dish1 seldom finds its way to the rich man's dining-room4 ,the ,,artichoke is a species of thistle2 and the man who pays the usual high-toned restaurant prices for the pleasure of eating such insipid food1 is an--never mind what4 ,boil the thing in salt and water1 and dip the ends of the leaves in oil and vinegar1 or ,holland sauce1 before eating4 ,then you will enjoy the really fine flavour of the--oil and vinegar1 or ,holland sauce4 ,the so-called ,,jerusalem ,,artichoke is really a species of sunflower4 ,its tuber is not a universal favourite1 though it possesses far from a coarse flavour4 ,the plant has nothing whatever to do with ,jerusalem1 and never had4 ,put a tuber or two into your garden1 and you will have ,jerusalem artichokes as long as you live on those premises4 ,for the vegetable will stay with you as long as the gout1 or the rate-gatherer4 ,pheasants are particularly partial to this sort of crop4 ,by far the best vegetable production of the gorgeous ,east is the ,brinjal ',tis oval in shape1 and about the size of a hen's egg1 the surface being purple in colour4 ,it is usually cut in twain and done on the grating2 ,i have met something very like the brinjal in ,covent ,garden2 but can find no record of the vegetable's pedigree in any book4 ,although there are still many vegetarian restaurants in our large towns1 the prejudice against animal food is1 happily1 dying out2 and if ridicule could kill1 we should not hear much more of the cranks who with delightful inconsistency1 would spurn a collop of beef1 and gorge themselves on milk1 in every shape and form4 ,if milk1 butter1 and cheese be not animal food ,i should like to know what is8 ,and it is as reasonable to ask a man to sustain life on dried peas and mushrooms as to feed a tiger on cabbages4 ,once1 and only once1 has the writer attempted a ,vegetarian ,banquet4 ,it was savoury enough2 and possessed the additional merit of being cheap4 ,decidedly filling at the price was that meal4 ,we--,i had a messmate--commenced with 7alleged7 ,scotch broth--which consisted principally of dried peas1 pearl barley1 and oatmeal--and a large slice of really excellent brown bread was served1 to each1 with this broth4 ,thereupon followed a savoury stew of onions and tomatoes1 relieved by a savoury pie1 apparently made from potatoes1 leeks1 bread crumbs1 butter1 and postponed mushrooms4 ,we had gone straight up to now1 but both shied a bit at the maccaroni and grated cheese4 ,we had two bottles of ginger beer apiece1 with this dinner1 which cost less than three shillings for the two1 after the dapper little waitress had been feed4 ,on leaving1 we both agreed to visit that cleanly and well-ordered little house again1 if only from motives of economy2 but within half an hour that programme was changed4 ,like the old lady at the tea-drinking1 ,i commenced to swell wisibly2 and so did my companion4 ,mon alive6 he gasped4 ,i feel just for all the wor-rld like a captive balloon1 or a puffy-dunter--that's a puffing whale1 ye ken4 ,i'll veesit yon onion-hoose nae mair i' ma life6 ,and ,i think it cost us something like half a sovereign in old brandy to neutralise the effects of that vegetarian banquet4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,,curries ,thou com'st in such a questionable shape ,that ,i will speak to thee4 ,different modes of manufacture--,the native fraud--,that man's family--,the ,french kari--,a ,parsee curry--,the oyster in the sauce--,ingredients--,malay curry--,locusts--,when to serve--,what to curry--,prawn curry--,dry curry1 a champion recipe--,rice--,the ,bombay duck4 ,the poor ,indian grinds his coriander seeds1 green ginger1 and other ingredients between two large flat stones2 taking a whiff at the family hubble-bubble pipe at intervals4 ,the frugal ,british housewife purchases 7alleged7 curry powder in the warehouse of ,italy--where it may have lived on1 like ,claudian1 through the centuries--stirs a spoonful or two into the hashed mutton1 surrounds it with a wall of clammy rice1 and calls it ,,benares ,,curry1 made from the recipe of a very dear uncle who met his death while tiger-shooting4 ,and you will be in the minority if you do not cut this savoury meat with a knife1 and eat potatoes1 and very often cabbage1 with it4 ,the far-seeing eating-house keeper corrals a ,lascar or a discharged ,mehtar into the firm1 gives him his board1 a pound a month1 and a clean puggaree and ,kummerbund daily1 and stars him in the bill as an ,indian chef1 fresh from the ,chowringhee ,club1 ,calcutta4 ,and it is part of the duties of this ,oriental--supposed by the unwary to be at least a prince in his native land--to hand the portions of curry1 which he may or may not have concocted1 to the appreciative guests1 who enjoy the repast all the more from having the scent of the ,hooghly brought across the footlights4 ,i was once sadly and solemnly reproved by the head waiter of a very swagger establishment indeed for sending away1 after one little taste1 the 7alleged7 curry which had been handed me by an exile from ,ind1 in snow-white raiment4 ,you really ought to have eaten that1 sir1 said the waiter1 for that man's family have been celebrated curry-makers for generations4 ,i smole a broad smile4 ,in the ,land of the ,moguls the very babies who roll in the dust know the secret of curry-making4 ,but that that man had had any hand in the horrible concoction placed before me ,i still resolutely decline to believe4 ,and how can a man be cook and waiter at the same time8 ,the native curry-maker1 depend on it1 is more or less of a fraud2 and his aid is only invoked as an excuse for overcharging4 ,at the ,oriental ,club are served1 or used to be served1 really excellent curries1 assorted2 for as there be more ways than one of killing a cat1 so are there more curries than one4 ,the ,french turn out a horrible mixture1 with parsley and mushrooms in it1 which they call kari2 it is called by a still worse name on the ,boulevards1 and the children of our lively neighbours are frequently threatened with it by their nurses4 ,on the whole1 the ,east ,indian method is the best2 and the most philanthropic curry ,i ever tasted was one which my own ,khitmughar had just prepared1 with infinite pains1 for his own consumption4 ,the poor heathen had prospected a feast1 as it was one of his numerous big days2 so1 despising the homely dhal1 on the which1 with a plate of rice and a modicum of rancid butter1 he was wont to sustain existence1 he had manufactured a savoury mess of pottage1 the looks of which gratified me4 ,so1 at the risk of starting another ,mutiny1 it was ordained that the slave should serve the refection at the table of the protector of the poor4 ,and a pukkha curry it was1 too4 ,another dish of native manufacture with which the writer became acquainted was a ,parsee ,curry4 ,the eminent firm of ,jehangeer on one occasion presented a petition to the commanding-officer that they might be allowed to supply a special curry to the mess one guest-night4 ,the request was probably made as an inducement to some of the young officers to pay a little on account of their owings to the firm2 but it is to be feared that no special vote of thanks followed the sampling of that special curry4 ,it was a curry6 ,i tasted it for a week 7as the ,frenchman did the soup of ,swindon72 and the ,parsee chef must have upset the entire contents of the spice-box into it4 ,i never felt more like murder than when the hotel cook in ,manchester put nutmeg in the oyster sauce2 but after that curry1 the strangling of the entire firm of ,jehangeer would1 in our cantonments1 at all events1 have been brought in justifiable homicide4 ,oyster sauce recalls a quaint simile ,i once heard a bookmaker make use of4 ,he was talking of one of his aristocratic debtors1 whom he described as sure to pay up1 if you could only get hold of him4 ,but mark you1 continued the layer of odds1 he's just about as easy to get hold of as the oyster in the sauce1 at one of our moonicipal banquets6 ,but return we to our coriander seeds4 ,there is absolutely no reason why the frugal housewife in this country should not make her own curry powder from day to day1 as it may be required4 ,here is an average ,indian recipe2 but it must be remembered that in the gorgeous ,east tastes vary as much as elsewhere1 and that ,bengal1 ,bombay1 ,madras 7including ,burmah71 ,ceylon1 and the ,straits ,settlements1 have all different methods of preparing a curry4 ,a few coriander and cumin seeds--according to taste--eight peppercorns1 a small piece of turmeric1 and one dried chili1 all pounded together4 ,when making the curry mixture1 take a piece of the heart of a cabbage1 the size of a hen's egg2 chop it fine and add one sour apple in thin slices the size of a ,keswick codlin1 the juice of a medium-sized lemon1 a salt-spoonful of black pepper1 and a tablespoonful of the above curry powder4 ,mix all well together2 then take six medium-sized onions which have been chopped small and fried a delicate brown1 a clove of garlic1 also chopped small1 two ounces of fresh butter1 two ounces of flour1 and one pint of beef gravy4 ,boil up this lot 7which commences with the onions71 and when boiling stir in the rest of the mixture4 ,let it all simmer down1 and then add the solid part of the curry1 i4e4 the meat1 cut in portions not larger than two inches square4 ,remember1 ,o frugal housewife1 that the turmeric portion of the entertainment should be added with a niggard hand4 ,too much turmeric is the fault which is found with most curries made in ,england4 ,i remember1 when a boy1 that there was an idea rooted in my mind that curries were made with ,doctor ,gregory's ,powder1 an unsavoury drug with which we were periodically regaled by the head nurse2 and there was always a fierce conflict at the dinner-table when the bill-of-fare included this 7as we supposed7 physic-al terror4 ,but it was simply the taste of turmeric to which we took exception4 ,what is ,,turmeric8 ,a plant in cultivation all over ,india1 whose tubers yield a deep yellow powder of a resinous nature4 ,this resinous powder is sold in lumps1 and is largely used for adulterating mustard2 just as inferior anchovy sauce is principally composed of ,armenian ,bole1 the deep red powder with which the actor makes up his countenance4 ,turmeric is also used medicinally in ,hindustan1 but not this side of ,suez1 although in chemistry it affords an infallible test for the presence of alkalies4 ,the ,,coriander has become naturalised in parts of ,england1 but is more used on the ,continent4 ,our confectioners put the seeds in cakes and buns1 also comfits1 and in ,germany1 ,norway1 ,sweden1 and 7,i fancy7 ,russia1 they figure in household bread4 ,in the south of ,england1 coriander and caraway seeds are sown side by side1 and crops of each are obtained in alternate years4 ,the coriander seed1 too1 is largely used with that of the caraway and the cumin1 for making the liqueur known as ,k,,mmel4 ,,cumin is mentioned in ,scripture as something particularly nice4 ,the seeds are sweet-savoured1 something like those of the caraway1 but more potent4 ,in ,germany they put them into bread1 and the ,dutch use them to flavour their cheeses4 ,the seeds we get in ,england come principally from ,sicily and ,malta4 ,and now that my readers know all about the ingredients of curry-powder--it is assumed that no analysis of the chili1 the ginger-root1 or the peppercorn1 is needed--let them emulate the pupils of ,mr4 ,wackford ,squeers1 and go and do it4 ,,another ,,recipe for curry-powder includes fenugreek1 cardamoms1 allspice1 and cloves2 but ,i verily believe that this was the powder used in that abominable ,parsee hell-broth1 above alluded to1 so it should be cautiously approached1 if at all4 ,fenugreek sounds evil2 and ,i should say a curry compounded of the above ingredients would taste like a ,number ,one pick-me-up4 ,yet another recipe 7,,doctor ,,kitchener',s7 specifies six ounces of coriander seed1 five ounces of turmeric 7ower muckle1 ,i'm of opeenion7 two ounces each of black pepper and mustard seed 7ochone671 half an ounce of cumin seed1 half an ounce of cinnamon 7donner und blitzen671 and one ounce of lesser cardamoms4 ,all these things are to be placed in a cool oven1 kept therein one night1 and pounded in a marble mortar next morning1 preparatory to being rubbed through a sieve4 ,kitchener sounds like a good cooking name2 but1 with all due respect1 ,i am not going to recommend his curry-powder4 ,a ,,malay ,,curry is made with blanched almonds1 which should be fried in butter till lightly browned4 ,then pound them to a paste with a sliced onion and some thin lemon-rind4 ,curry powder and gravy are added1 and a small quantity of cream4 ,the ,malays curry all sorts of fish1 flesh1 and fowl1 including the young shoots of the bamboo--and nice tender1 succulent morsels they are4 ,at a hotel overlooking the harbour of ,point de ,galle1 ,ceylon1 run1 at the time of the writer's visit1 by a most convivial and enterprising ,yankee1 a canning concocter of all sorts of slings and cocktails1 there used to be quite a plethora of curries in the bill-of-fare4 ,but for a prawn curry there is no place like the ,city of ,palaces4 ,and the reason for this super-excellence is that the prawns--but that story had1 perhaps1 best remain untold4 ,,curried ,,locusts formed one of the most eccentric dishes ever tasted by the writer4 ,there had come upon us that day a plague of these all-devouring insects4 ,a few billions called on us1 in our kitchen gardens1 in passing2 and whilst they ate up every green thing--including the newly-painted wheelbarrow1 and the regimental standard1 which had been incautiously left out of doors--our faithful blacks managed to capture several impis of the marauding scuts1 in revenge2 and the mess-cook made a right savoury plt of their hind-quarters4 ,it is criminal to serve curry during the entre period of dinner4 ,and it is worse form still to hand it round after gooseberry tart and cream1 and trifle1 as ,i have seen done at one great house4 ,in the land of its birth1 the spicy pottage invariably precedes the sweets4 ,nubbee ,bux marches solemnly round with the mixture1 in a deep dish1 and is succeeded by ,ram ,lal with the rice4 ,and in the ,madras ,presidency1 where dry curry is served as well as the other brand1 there is a procession of three brown attendants4 ,highly-seasoned dishes at the commencement of a long meal are a mistake2 and this is one of the reasons why ,i prefer the middle cut of a plain-boiled ,tay salmon1 or the tit-bit of a lordly turbot1 or a flake or two of a ,grimsby cod1 to a sole ,normande1 or a red mullet stewed with garlic1 mushrooms1 and inferior claret4 ,i have even met homard l',amricaine1 during the fish course1 at the special request of a well-known ,duke4 ,the soup1 too1 eaten at a large dinner should be as plain as possible2 the edge being fairly taken off the appetite by such concoctions as bisque1 bouillabaisse1 and mulligatawny--all savoury and tasty dishes1 but each a meal in itself4 ,then ,i maintain that to curry whitebait is wrong2 partly because curry should on no account be served before roast and boiled1 and partly because the flavour of the whitebait is too delicate for the fish to be clad in spices and onions4 ,the lesson which all dinner-givers ought to have learnt from the ,ancient ,romans--the first people on record who went in for sthetic cookery--is that highly-seasoned and well-peppered dishes should figure at the end1 and not the commencement of a banquet4 ,here follows a list of some of the productions of ,nature which it is allowable to curry4 ,what to ,curry4 ,,turbot4 ,,sole4 ,,cod4 ,,lobster4 ,,crayfish4 ,,prawns1--but not the so-called ,,dublin ,,prawn1 which is delicious when eaten plain boiled1 but no good in a curry4 ,,whelks4#f ,,oysters4 ,,scallops4 ,,mutton4 ,,veal4 ,,pork4 ,,calf',s ,,head4 ,,ox ,,palate4 ,,tripe4#f ,,eggs4 ,,chicken4 ,,rabbit 7the bunny lends itself better than anything else to this method of cooking74 ,,pease4 ,,kidney ,,beans4#f ,,vegetable ,,marrow4 ,,carrots4 ,,parsnips4 ,,bamboo ,,shoots4 ,,locust ,,legs4 ,a mistaken notion has prevailed for some time amongst men and women who write books1 that the ,indian curry mixture is almost red-hot to the taste4 ,as a matter of fact it is of a far milder nature than many ,i have tasted on this side4 ,also the ,anglo-,indian does not sustain life entirely on food flavoured with turmeric and garlic4 ,in fact1 during a stay of seven years in the gorgeous ,east1 the writer's experience was that not one in ten touched curry at the dinner table4 ,at second breakfast--otherwise known as tiffin--it was a favoured dish2 but the stuff prepared for the meal of the day--or the bulk thereof--usually went to gratify the voracious appetite of the mehters1 the ,hindus who swept out the mess-rooms1 and whose lowness of caste allowed them to eat anything4 ,an eccentric meal was the mehter's dinner4 ,into the empty preserved-meat tin which he brought round to the back door ,i have seen emptied such assorted pabulum as mock turtle soup1 lobster salad1 plum pudding and custard1 curry1 and 7of course71 the surplus vilolif2 and in a few seconds he was squatting on his heels1 and spading into the mixture with both hands4 ,in the ,bengal ,presidency cocoa-nut is freely used with a curry dressing2 and as some men have as great a horror of this addition1 as of oil in a salad1 it is as well to consult the tastes of your guests beforehand4 ,a ,,prawn ,,curry ,i have seen made in ,calcutta as follows1 the proportions of spices1 etc41 being specially written down by a munshi3-- ,pound and mix one tablespoonful of coriander seed1 one tablespoonful of poppy seed1 a salt-spoonful of turmeric1 half a salt-spoonful of cumin seed1 a pinch of ground cinnamon1 a ditto of ground nutmeg1 a small lump of ginger1 and one salt-spoonful of salt4 ,mix this with butter1 add two sliced onions1 and fry till lightly browned4 ,add the prawns1 shelled1 and pour in the milk of a cocoa-nut4 ,simmer for twenty minutes1 and add some lime juice4 ,but the champion of curries ever sampled by the writer was a dry curry--a decided improvement on those usually served in the ,madras ,presidency--and the recipe 7which has been already published in the ,sporting ,times and ,lady's ,pictorial71 only came into the writer's possession some years after he had quitted the land of temples4 ,dry ,curry4 #a lb4 of meat 7mutton1 fowl1 or white fish74 #a lb4 of onions4 #a clove of garlic4 #b ounces of butter4 #a dessert-spoonful of curry powder4 #a dessert-spoonful of curry paste4 #a dessert-spoonful of chutnee 7or tamarind preserve1 according to taste74 ,a very little cassareep1 which is a condiment 7only obtainable at a few ,london shops7 made from the juice of the bitter cassava1 or manioc root4 ,cassareep is the basis of that favourite ,west ,indian dish ,pepper-pot4 ,salt to taste4 ,a good squeeze of lemon juice4 ,first brown the onions in the butter1 and then dry them4 ,add the garlic1 which must be mashed to a pulp with the blade of a knife4 ,then mix the powder1 paste1 chutnee1 and cassareep into a thin paste with the lemon juice4 ,mash the dried onions into this1 and let all cook gently till thoroughly mixed4 ,then add the meat1 cut into small cubes1 and let all simmer very gently for three hours4 ,this sounds a long time1 but it must be remembered that the recipe is for a dry curry2 and when served there should be no liquid about it4 ',tis a troublesome dish to prepare2 but1 judging from the flattering communications received by the writer1 the lieges would seem to like it4 ,and the mixture had better be cooked in a double or porridge-saucepan1 to prevent any catching4 ,already1 in one of the breakfast chapters1 has the subject of the preparation of rice1 to be served with curry1 been touched upon2 but there will be no harm done in giving the directions again4 ,rice for ,curry ,soak a sufficiency of rice in cold water until by repeated strainings all the dirt is separated from it4 ,then put the rice into boiling water1 and let it gallop for nine or ten minutes--no longer4 ,strain the water off through a colander1 and dash a little cold water over the rice to separate the grains4 ,put in a hot dish1 and serve immediately4 ,a simple enough recipe1 surely8 ,so let us hear no more complaints of stodgy1 clammy1 puddingy rice4 ,most of the cookery books give far more elaborate directions1 but the above is the method usually pursued by the poor brown heathen himself4 ,soyer's recipe resembles the above2 but1 after draining the water from the cooked rice1 it is replaced in the saucepan1 the interior of which has in the interim been anointed with butter4 ,the saucepan is then placed either near the fire 7not on it71 or in a slow oven1 for the rice to swell4 ,another way3 ,after washing the rice1 throw it into plenty of boiling water--in the proportion of six pints of water to one pound of rice4 ,boil it for five minutes1 and skim it2 then add a wine-glassful of milk for every half pound of rice1 and continue boiling for five minutes longer4 ,strain the water off through a colander1 and put it dry into the pot1 on the corner of the stove1 pouring over the rice a small piece of butter1 which has been melted in a tablespoonful of the hot milk and water in which the rice was boiled4 ,add salt1 and stir the rice for five minutes more4 ,the decayed denizen of the ocean1 dried to the consistency of biscuit1 and known in ,hindustan as a ,,bombay ,,duck1 which is frequently eaten with curry1 over yonder1 does not find much favour1 this side of ,port ,said1 although ,i have met the fowl in certain city restaurants4 ,the addition is not looked upon with any particular favour by the writer4 ,i have yet to learn once observed that great and good man1 the late ,doctor ,joseph ,pope1#g to the writer1 in a discussion on postponed game1 that it is a good thing to put corruption into the human stomach4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,salads ,o green and glorious1 ,o herbaceous meat6 ',twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat4 ,back to the world he'd turn his weary soul1 ,and dip his fingers in the salad bowl6 ,nebuchadnezzar v4 ,sydney ,smith--,salt8--,no salad-bowl--,french origin--,apocryphal story of ,francatelli--,salads and salads--,water-cress and dirty water--,salad-maker born not made--,lobster salad--,lettuce1 ,wipe or wash8--,mayonnaise--,potato salad--,tomato ditto--,celery ditto--,a memorable ditto4 ,if ,sydney ,smith had only possessed the experience of old ,king ,nebuchadnezzar1 after he had been turned out to grass1 the witty prebend might not have waxed quite so enthusiastic on the subject of herbaceous meat4 ,still the subject is a vast and important one1 in its connection with gastronomy1 and lends itself to poetry far easier than doth the little sucking pig1 upon whom ,charles ,lamb expended so great and unnecessary a wealth of language4 ,but look at the terse1 perfunctory1 and far from satisfactory manner in which the ,encyclopdia attacks the subject4 ,salad1 we read1 is the term given to a preparation of raw herbs for food4 ,it derives its name from the fact that salt is one of the chief ingredients used in dressing a salad4 ,this statement is not only misleading but startling2 for in the dressing of a salad it would be the act of a lunatic to make salt the chief ingredient4 ,long before they had learnt the art of dressing the herbs1 our ancestors partook of cresses 7assorted71 celery1 and lettuces1 after being soaked in water for a considerable period2 and they dipped the raw herbs into salt before consuming them4 ,in fact1 in many a cheap eating-house of to-day1 the term salad means plain lettuce1 or cress1 or possibly both1 absolutely undressed--in a state of nature1 plus plenty of dirty water4 ,even the ,english cook of the end of the nineteenth century cannot rid himself1 or herself1 of the idea that lettuce1 like water-cress1 knows the running brook1 or the peaceful pond1 as its natural element4 ,and thirty years before the end of that century1 a salad bowl was absolutely unknown in nine-tenths of the eating-houses of ,great ,britain4 ,there is no use in blinking the fact that it is to our lively neighbours that we owe the introduction of the salad proper4 ,often as the writer has been compelled1 in these pages1 to inveigh against the torturing of good fish and flesh by the alien cook1 and the high prices charged for its endowment with an alien flavour1 let that writer 7figuratively7 place a crown of endive1 tipped with baby onions1 upon the brows of the philanthropist who dressed the first salad1 and gave the recipe to the world4 ,that recipe has1 of course1 been improved upon2 and although the savant who writes in the ,encyclopdia proclaims that salad has always been a favourite food with civilised nations1 and has varied very little in its composition1 the accuracy of both statements is open to question4 ,every art1 observes another writer1 has its monstrosities2 gastronomy has not been behind-hand2 and though he must be a bold man who will venture to blaspheme the elegancies of ,french cookery1 there comes a time to every ,englishman who may have wandered into a mistaken admiration of sophisticated messes1 when he longs for the simple diet of his native land1 and vows that the best cookery in the world1 and that which satisfies the most refined epicureanism1 sets up for its ideal--plainness of good food1 and the cultivation of natural tastes4 ,and yet the ,french have taught us1 or tried to teach us1 how to prepare a dish of raw herbs1 in the simplest way in the world6 ,now a salad1 says the same writer1 is simplicity itself1 and here is a marvel--it is the crowning grace of a ,french dinner1 while1 on the other hand1 it is little understood and villainously treated at ,english tables4 ,ahem6 ,i would qualify that last statement4 ,at some ,english tables ,i have tasted salads compared with which the happiest effort of the chef deserves not to be mentioned in the same garlic-laden breath4 ,and garlic-laden breath naturally reminds me of the story of ,francatelli--of which anecdote ,i do not believe one word1 by the way4 ,it was said of ,franc41 whilst chef at the ,reform ,club1 that his salads were such masterpieces1 such things of beauty1 that one of the members questioned him on the subject4 ,how do you manage to introduce such a delicious flavour into your salads8 ,ah6 that should be my secret1 was the reply4 ,but ,i will tell him to you4 ,after ,i have made all my preparations1 and the green food is mixed with the dressing1 ,i chew a little clove of garlic between my teeth--so--and then breathe gently over the whole4 ,but1 as observed before1 ,i do not believe that garlic story4 ,o salad1 what monstrosities are perpetrated in thy name6 ,let the genteel boarding-house cook-maid1 the young lady who has studied harmony and the higher mathematics at the ,board ,school1 spread herself over the subject2 and then invite the angels to inspect the matter1 and weep6 ,for this is the sort of harmony which the paying guest1 who can appreciate the advantages of young and musical society1 an airy front bed-chamber1 and a bicycle room1 is expected to enthuse over at the table d'hte3 a mlange of herbs and roots1 including water-cress and giant radishes1 swimming in equal parts of vinegar and oil1 and a large proportion of the water in which the ingredients have been soaking for hours--said ingredients being minced small1 like veal collops1 with a steel knife4 ,and the same salad1 the very identical horror1 obtrudes itself on the table at other genteel establishments than boarding-houses4 ,for they be mostly fools who people the civilised world4 ,let it be laid down as a golden rule1 that the concoction of a salad should never1 or hardly ever1 be entrusted to the tender mercies of the ,british serving-maid4 ,for the salad-maker1 like the poet1 is born1 not made2 and the divine afflatus--,i don't mean garlic--is as essential in the one as in the other4 ,we will take the simple mixture1 what is commonly known as the ,french ,salad1 first4 ,this is either composed1 in the matter of herbs1 of lettuce1 chopped taragon1 chervil1 and chives2 or of endive1 with1 lurking in the bowl1 a chapon1 or crust of bread on which a clove of garlic has been rubbed4 ,but the waiter1 an he be discreet1 will ask the customer beforehand if he prefer that the chapon be omitted4 ,the dressing is simplicity itself3 ,within the bowl of a table-spoon are placed1 in succession1 a spot of made mustard1 and a sprinkling of black pepper and salt4 ,the bowl is filled up with vinegar1 and with a fork in the other hand the waiter stirs quickly the mustard1 etc41 afterwards emptying the contents of the spoon over the green-stuff4 ,then the spoon is refilled--either twice or thrice1 ad lib4--with ,lucca oil1 which is also poured over the salad4 ,then the final mixing takes place1 in the salad bowl4 ,but there be many and elaborate ways of salad-making4 ,here is the writer's idea of a ,lobster ,salad for half-a-dozen guests3 ,in a soup plate1 mix the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs--boiled for thirty minutes1 and afterwards thrown into cold water--into a smooth paste with a teaspoonful of made mustard1 and a tablespoonful of plain vinegar1 added drop by drop4 ,keep on stirring1 and add a dessert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar1 a few drops of essence of anchovies1 a teaspoonful 7not heaped7 of salt1 about the same quantity of sifted sugar1 and a good pinch of cayenne4 ,the tendency of black pepper is to make a salad gritty1 which is an abomination4 ,lastly1 add1 drop by drop1 three tablespoonfuls of oil4 ,pour this dressing 7which should be in a continual state of stir7 into your salad bowl4 ,add the pickings of a hen lobster cut into dice1 and atop of the lobster1 lettuces which have been shred with clean fingers1 or with ivory forks2 a little endive may be added1 with a slice or two of beetroot2 but no onion 7or very little7 in a lobster salad4 ,a few shreds of anchovy may be placed atop2 with beetroot cut into shapes1 the whites of the eggs1 and the coral of the lobster1 for the sake of effect2 but seek not1 ,o student1 to achieve prettiness of effect to the detriment of practical utility4 ,i need hardly add that the sooner after its manufacture a salad is eaten1 the better will be its flavour4 ,and the solid ingredients should only be mixed with the dressing at the very last moment2 otherwise a sodden1 flabby effect will be produced1 which is neither pleasing to the eye1 nor calculated to promote good digestion4 ,i am perfectly aware that the above is not a strict ,mayonnaise dressing1 in which the egg yolks should be raw1 instead of cooked4 ,but1 like the ,scotsman1 ,i have tried baith1 and prefer my own way1 which more resembles the sauce ,tartare1 than the ,mayonnaise of our lively neighbours1 who1 by the way1 merely wipe1 instead of wash1 their lettuces and endive1 to preserve1 as they say1 the flavour4 ,of course this is a matter of taste1 but the writer must own to a preference for the baptised article1 which must1 however1 on no account be left to soak1 but be simply freed from dirt1 grit1 and--other things4 ,what is the origin of the word ,,mayonnaise8 ,no two ,frenchmen will give you the same answer4 ,of or belonging to ,mayonne would seem to be the meaning of the word2 but then there is no such place as ,mayonne in the whole of ,france4 ,grimod de la ,reyniere maintained that the proper word was ,,bayonnaise1 meaning a native of ,bayonne1 on the ,spanish frontier4 ,afterwards ,grimod1 who was a resourceful man1 got hold of another idea1 and said that the word was probably ,,mahonnaise1 and so named in honour of ,marshal ,richelieu's capture of the stronghold of ,mahon1 in the island of ,minorca4 ,but what had this victory got to do with a salad dressing8 ,what was the connection of raw eggs and tarragon vinegar with ,marshal ,richelieu8 ,then up came another cook1 in the person of ,carme1 who established it as an absolute certainty that the genuine word was ,,magnonnaise1 from the word manier1 to manipulate4 ,but as nobody would stand this definition for long1 a fresh search had to be made2 and this time an old ,provenal verb was dug up--mahonner1 or more correctly maghonner1 to worry or fatigue4 ,and this is now said by purists to be the source of ,mayonnaise--something worried1 or fatigued4 ,and the reason for the gender of the noun is said to be that in ancient times lovely woman was accustomed to manipulate the salad with her own fair fingers4 ,in the time of ,rousseau1 the phrase retourner la salade avec les doigts was used to describe a woman as being still young and beautiful2 just as in ,yorkshire at the present time1 she canna mak' a bit o' bread is used to describe a woman who is of no possible use in the house4 ,so a ,mayonnaise or a ,mahonnaise--,i care not which be the correct spelling--was a young lady who fatigued the salad4 ,more shame to the gallants of the day1 who allowed fatigue to be associated with youth and beauty6 ,but can it possibly matter what the word means1 when the mixture is smooth and savoury2 and so deftly blended that no one flavour predominates8 ,and herein lies the secret of every mixture used for the refreshment of the inner man and woman2 whether it be a soup1 a curry1 a trifle1 a punch1 or a cup--no one ingredient should be of more weight or importance than another4 ,and that was the secret of the delicious gravy furnished by the celebrated stew at the ,jolly ,farmers1 in ,the ,old ,curiosity ,shop of ,charles ,dickens4 ,,mayonnaise 7we will drop for the nonce1 the other spelling7 is made thus3 ,in the proportions of two egg yolks to half a pint of ,lucca oil1 and a small wine-glassful of tarragon vinegar4 ,work the yolks smooth in a basin1 with a seasoning of pepper 7cayenne for choice71 salt1 and--according to the writer's views--sifted sugar4 ,then a few drops of oil1 and fewer of vinegar2 stirring the mixture all the time1 from right to left1 with a wooden1 or ivory1 spoon4 ,in good truth 'tis a fatiguing task2 and as in very hot weather the sauce is liable to decompose1 or curdle1 before the finishing touches are put to it1 it may be made over ice4 ,stir1 sisters1 stir1 ,stir with care6 is the motto for the ,mayonnaise-mixer4 ,and in many cases her only reward consists in the knowledge that through her art and patience she has helped to make the sojourn of others in this vale of tears less tearful and monotonous4 ,onion atoms should lurk within the bowl1 on nearly every occasion1 and as for a potato salad--don't be afraid1 ,i'm not going to quote any more ,sydney ,smith1 so don't get loading your guns--well1 here is the proper way to make it4 ,potato ,salad4 ,cut nine or ten average-sized kidney potatoes 7cooked7 into slices1 half an inch thick1 put them in a salad bowl1 and pour over them1 after mixing1 two tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar1 six tablespoonfuls of oil1 one of minced parsley1 a dessert-spoonful of onions chopped very fine1 with cayenne and salt to taste4 ,shredded anchovies may be added1 although it is preferable without2 and this salad should be made a couple of hours or so before partaken of4 ,the ,german recipe for a potato salad is too nasty to quote2 and their ,,herring ,,salad1 although said to be a valuable restorative of nerve power1 by no means presents an attractive appearance1 when served at table4 ,far more to the mind and palate of the average epicure is a ,tomato ,salad4 ,this is the author's recipe3 ,four large tomatoes and one ,spanish onion1 cut into thin slices4 ,mix a spot of mustard1 a little white pepper and salt1 with vinegar1 in a table-spoon1 pour it over the love apples1 etc41 and then add two tablespoonfuls of oil4 ,mix well1 and then sprinkle over the mixture a few drops of ,lea and ,perrins's ,worcester ,sauce4 ,for the fair sex1 the last part of the programme may be omitted1 but on no account leave out the breath of sunny ,spain4 ,and mark this well4 ,the man1 or woman1 who mixes tomatoes with lettuces1 or endives1 in the bowl1 is hereby sentenced to translate the whole of this book into ,court ,english4 ,celery ,salad4 ,an excellent winter salad is made with beetroot and celery1 cut in thin slices1 and served--with or without onions--either with a mayonnaise sauce1 or with a plain cream sauce3 to every tablespoonful of cream add a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar1 a little sugar1 and a suspicion of cayenne4 ,this salad looks best served in alternate slices of beet and celery1 on a flat silver dish1 around the sauce4 ,a ,gentleman ,salad ,maker4 ,although in the metropolis it is still customary1 in middle-class households1 to hire outside help on the occasion of a dinner-party1 we have not heard for some time of a salad-dresser who makes house-to-house visitations in the exercise of his profession4 ,but1 at the end of the #ahth century1 the ,chevalier d',allignac1 who had escaped from ,paris to ,london in the evil days of the ,revolution1 made a fortune in this way4 ,he was paid at the rate of #e a salad1 and naturally1 soon started his own carriage1 in order that he might pass quickly from house to house1 during the dining hours of the aristocracy4 ,high as the fee may appear to be1 it is impossible to measure the width of the gulf which lies between the salad as made by a lover of the art1 and the kitchen-wench2 and a perfect salad is1 like a perfect curry1 far above rubies4 ,a ,memorable ,salad was once served in my own mansion4 ,the chef1 who understood these matters well1 when her hair was free from vine leaves1 had been celebrating her birthday or some other festival2 and had mixed the dressing with ,colza oil4 ,her funeral was largely attended4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,salads ,,and ,,condiments ,epicurean cooks ,sharpen with cloyless sauce his appetite4 ,roman salad--,italian ditto--,various other salads--,sauce for cold mutton--,chutnine--,raw chutnee--,horse-radish sauce--,christopher ,north's sauce--,how to serve a mackerel--,sauce ,tartare--,ditto for sucking pig--,delights of making ,sambal--,a new language4 ,it has1 ,i hope1 been made sufficiently clear that neither water-cress nor radishes should figure in a dressed salad2 from the which ,i would also exclude such small deer as mustard and cress4 ,there is1 however1 no black mark against the narrow-leaved ,,corn ,,salad plant1 or lamb's lettuce2 and its great advantage is that it can be grown almost anywhere during the winter months1 when lettuces have to be coddled1 and thereby robbed of most of their flavour4 ,instead of yolk of egg1 in a dressing1 cheese may be used1 with good results1 either cream cheese--not the poor stuff made on straws1 but what are known as napkin1 or ,new ,forest cheeses--or ,cheddar4 ,squash it well up with oil and vinegar1 and do not use too much4 ,a piece of cheese the size of an average lump of sugar will be ample1 and will lend a most agreeable flavour to the mixture4 ,roman ,salad ,lucullus and ,co4--or rather their cooks--had much to learn in the preparation of the herbaceous meat which delighted ,sydney ,smith4 ,the ,romans cultivated endive2 this was washed free from matter in the wrong place1 chopped small--absolutely fatal to the taste--anointed with oil and liquamen1 topped up with chopped onions1 and further ornamented with honey and vinegar4 ,but before finding fault with the conquerors of the world for mixing honey with a salad1 it should be remembered that they knew not fine ,demerara1 nor best lump1 nor even the beet sugar which can be made at home4 ,still ,i should not set a ,roman salad before my creditors1 if ,i wanted them to have patience4 ,an offer of the very smallest dividend would be preferable4 ,italian ,salad4 ,the merry ,italian has improved considerably upon the herbaceous treat 7,i rather prefer treat to meat7 of his ancestors2 though he is far too fond of mixing flesh-meat of all sorts with his dressed herbs1 and his boiled vegetables4 ,two cold potatoes and half a medium sized beet sliced1 mixed with boiled celery and ,brussels sprouts1 form a common salad in the sunny ,south2 the dressing being usually oil and vinegar1 occasionally oil seule1 and sometimes a ,tartare sauce4 ,stoned olives are usually placed atop of the mess1 which includes fragments of chicken1 or veal and ham4 ,russian ,salad4 ,this is a difficult task to build up2 for a sort of ,cleopatra's ,needle1 or pyramid1 of cooked vegetables1 herbs1 pickles1 etc41 has to be erected on a flat dish4 ,carrots1 turnips1 green peas1 asparagus1 ,french beans1 beetroot1 capers1 pickled cucumbers1 and horse-radish1 form the solid matter of which the pyramid is built4 ,lay a stratum on the dish1 and anoint the stratum with ,tartare sauce4 ,each layer must be similarly anointed1 and must be of less circumference than the one underneath1 till the top layer consists of one caper4 ,garnish with bombs of caviare1 sliced lemon1 crayfish1 olives1 and salted cucumber2 and then give the salad to the policeman on fixed-point duty4 ,at least1 if you take my advice4 ,anchovy ,salad4 ,this is usually eaten at the commencement of dinner1 as a hors d'oeuvre4 ,some shreds of anchovy should be arranged criss-cross in a flat glass dish4 ,surround it with small heaps of chopped truffles1 yolk and white of hard-boiled eggs1 capers1 and a stoned olive or two4 ,mix all the ingredients together with a little ,chili vinegar1 and twice the quantity of oil4 ,the mixture is said to be invaluable as an appetiser2 but the modest oyster on the deep shell--if he has not been fattened at the bolt-hole of the main sewer--is to be preferred4 ,cooked vegetables1 for salad purposes1 are not1 nor will they ever be1 popular in ,england1 ,nine out of ten ,britains will eat the one sauce with asparagus1 in preference to the oiled butter1 or plain salad dressing1 of mustard1 vinegar1 pepper1 salt1 and oil2 whilst 'tis almost hopeless to attempt to dissuade madame the cook from smothering her cauliflowers with liquefied paste1 before sending them to table4 ,many a wild weed which foreign nations snatch greedily from the soil1 prior to dressing it1 is passed by with scorn by our islanders1 including the dandelion1 which is a favourite of our lively neighbours1 for salad purposes1 and is doubtless highly beneficial to the human liver4 ,so is the cauliflower2 and an eminent medical authority once gave out that the man who ate a parboiled cauliflower1 as a salad1 every other day1 need never send for a doctor4 ,which sounds rather like fouling his own nest4 ,fruit ,salad4 ,this is simply a ,french compte of cherries1 green almonds1 pears1 limes1 peaches1 apricots in syrup slightly flavoured with ginger2 and goes excellent well with any cold brown game4 ,try it4 ,orange ,salad4 ,peel your orange1 and cut it into thin slices4 ,arrange these in a glass dish1 and sugar them well4 ,then pour over them a glass of sherry1 a glass of brandy1 and a glass of maraschino4 ,orange ,sauce4 ,cold mutton1 according to my notions1 is absolutely beastly1 to the palate4 ,more happy homes have been broken up by this simple dish than by the entire army of ,europe4 ,and 'tis a dish which should never be allowed to wander outside the servants' hall4 ,the superior domestics who take their meals in the steward's room1 would certainly rise in a body1 and protest against the indignity of a cold leg1 or shoulder4 ,as for a cold loin--but the idea is too awful4 ,still1 brightened up by the following condiment1 cold mutton will go down smoothly1 and even gratefully3-- ,rub off the thin yellow rind of two oranges on four lumps of sugar4 ,put these into a bowl1 and pour in a wine-glass of port1 a quarter pint of dissolved red-currant jelly1 a teaspoonful of mixed mustard--don't be frightened1 it's all right--a finely-minced shallot1 a pinch of cayenne1 and some more thin orange rind4 ,mix well4 ,when heated up1 strain and bottle off4 ,but amateur sauces should1 on the whole1 be discouraged4 ,the writer has tasted dozens of imitations of ,lea and ,perrins's inimitable1 and it is still inimitable1 and unapproachable4 ,it is the same with chutnee4 ,you can get anything in that line you want at ,stembridge's1 close to ,leicester ,square1 to whom the writer is indebted for some valuable hints4 ,but here is a recipe for a mixture of chutnee and pickle1 which must have been written a long time ago2 for the two operations are transposed4 ,for instance1 the onions should be dealt with first4 ,chutnine4 ,ten or twelve large apples1 peeled and cored1 put in an earthenware jar1 with a little vinegar 7on no account use water7 in the oven4 ,let them remain till in a pulp1 then take out1 and add half an ounce of curry powder1 one ounce of ground ginger1 half a pound of stoned raisins1 chopped fine1 half a pound moist sugar1 one teaspoonful cayenne pepper1 one tablespoonful salt4 ,take four large onions 7this should be done first71 chop very fine1 and put them in a jar with a pint and a half of vinegar4 ,cork tightly and let them remain a week4 ,then add the rest of the ingredients1 after mixing them well together4 ,cork tightly1 and the chutnine will be ready for use in a month4 ,it improves1 however1 by keeping for a year or so4 ,raw ,chutnee is another aid to the consumption of cold meat1 and ,i have also seen it used as an accompaniment to curry1 but do not recommend the mixture4 ,one large tomato1 one smaller ,spanish onion1 one green chili1 and a squeeze of lemon juice4 ,pulp the tomato2 don't try to extract the seeds1 for life is too short for that operation4 ,chop the onion and the chili very fine1 and mix the lot up with a pinch of salt1 and the same quantity of sifted sugar4 ,i know plenty of men who would break up their homes 7after serving the furniture in the same way7 and emigrate2 who would go on strike1 were roast beef to be served at the dinner-table unaccompanied by horse-radish sauce4 ,but this is a relish for the national dish which is frequently overlooked4 ,horse-radish ,sauce4 ,grate a young root as fine as you can4 ,it is perhaps needless to add that the fresher the horse-radish the better4 ,no vegetables taste as well as those grown in your own garden1 and gathered1 or dug up1 just before wanted4 ,and the horse-radish1 like the ,jerusalem artichoke1 comes to stay4 ,when once he gets a footing in your garden you will never dislodge him2 nor will you want to4 ,very well1 then3 ,having grated your horse1 add a quarter of a pint of cream--,english or ,devonshire--a dessert-spoonful of sifted sugar1 half that quantity of salt1 and a tablespoonful of vinegar4 ,mix all together1 and1 if for hot meat1 heat in the oven1 taking care that the mixture does not curdle4 ,many people use oil instead of cream1 and mix grated orange rind with the sauce4 ,the ,germans do not use oil1 but either make the relish with cream1 or hard-boiled yolk of egg4 ,horse-radish sauce for hot meat may also be heated by pouring it into a jar1 and standing the jar in boiling water--jugging it in fact4 ,celery ,sauce1 for boiled pheasant1 or turkey1 is made thus3 ,two or three heads of celery1 sliced thin1 put into a saucepan with equal quantities of sugar and salt1 a dust of white pepper1 and two or three ounces of butter4 ,stew your celery slowly till it becomes pulpy1 but not brown1 add two or three ounces of flour1 and a good half-pint of milk1 or cream4 ,let it simmer twenty minutes1 and then rub the mixture through a sieve4 ,the carp as an item of food is1 according to my ideas1 a fraud4 ,he tastes principally of the mud in which he has been wallowing until dragged out by the angler4 ,the ancients loved a dish of carp1 and yet they knew not the only sauce to make him at all palatable4 ,sauce for ,carp4 ,one ounce of butter1 a quarter pint of good beef gravy1 one dessert-spoonful of flour1 a quarter pint of cream and two anchovies chopped very small4 ,mix over the fire1 stir well till boiling1 then take off1 add a little ,worcester sauce1 and a squeeze of lemon1 just before serving4 ,christopher ,north's ,sauce4 ,this is a very old recipe4 ,put a dessert-spoonful of sifted sugar1 a salt-spoonful of salt1 and rather more than that quantity of cayenne1 into a jar4 ,mix thoroughly1 and add1 gradually1 two tablespoonfuls of ,harvey's sauce1 a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup1 a tablespoonful of lemon juice1 and a large glass of port4 ,place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water1 and let it remain till the mixture is very hot1 but not boiling4 ,if bottled directly after made1 the sauce will keep for a week1 and may be used for duck1 goose1 pork1 or 7,christopher adds7 any broil4 ,but there is but one broil sauce1 the ,,gubbins ,,sauce1 already mentioned in this work4 ,sauce for ,hare4 ,what a piece of work is a hare6 ,and what a piece of work it is to cook him in a laudable fashion6 ,crumble some bread--a handful or so--soak it in port wine1 heat over the fire with a small lump of butter1 a tablespoonful of red-currant jelly1 a little salt1 and a tablespoonful of ,chili vinegar4 ,serve as hot as possible4 ,mackerel is a fish but seldom seen at the tables of the great4 ,and yet 'tis tasty eating1 if his ,joseph's coat be bright and shining when you purchase him4 ,when stale he is dangerous to life itself4 ,and he prefers to gratify the human palate when accompanied by ,gooseberry ,sauce1 which is made by simply boiling a few green gooseberries1 rubbing them through a sieve1 and adding a little butter and a suspicion of ginger4 ,then heat up4 ,a wine-glassful of sorrel or spinach-juice1 observes one authority1 is a decided improvement4 ,h'm4 ,i've tried both1 and prefer the gooseberries unadorned with spinach liquor4 ,now for a sauce which is deservedly popular all over the world1 and which is equally at home as a salad dressing1 as a covering for a steak off a fresh-run salmon1 or a portion of fried eel2 the luscious1 the invigorating ,sauce ,tartare1 so called because no tallow-eating ,tartar was ever known to taste thereof4 ,i have already given a pretty good recipe for its manufacture1 in previous salad-dressing instructions1 where the yolks of hard-boiled eggs are used4 ,but chopped chervil1 shallots1 and 7occasionally7 gherkins1 are added to the ,tartare arrangement2 and frequently the surface is adorned with capers1 stoned olives1 and shredded anchovies4 ,in the chapters devoted to dinners1 no mention has been made of the sucking pig1 beloved of ,charles ,lamb4#h ,this hardened offender should be devoured with ,currant ,sauce3 ,boil an ounce of currants1 after washing them and picking out the tacks1 dead flies1 etc41 in half a pint of water1 for a few minutes1 and pour over them a cupful of finely grated crumbs4 ,let them soak well1 then beat up with a fork1 and stir in about a gill of oiled butter4 ,add two tablespoonfuls of the brown gravy made for the pig1 a glass of port1 and a pinch of salt4 ,stir the sauce well over the fire4 ,it is also occasionally served with roast venison2 but not in the mansions of my friends4 ,what is sauce for ,madame ,goose is said to be sauce for ,old ,man ,gander4 ,never mind about that1 however4 ,the parents of young ,master ,goose1 with whom alone ,i am going to deal1 have1 like the flowers which bloom in the spring1 absolutely nothing to do with the case4 ,this is the best ,sauce for the ,goose known to civilisation3 ,put two ounces of green sage leaves into a jar with an ounce of the thin yellow rind of a lemon1 a minced shallot1 a teaspoonful of salt1 half a ditto of cayenne1 and a pint of claret4 ,let this soak for a fortnight1 then pour off the liquid into a tureen2 or boil with some good gravy4 ,this sauce will keep for a week or two1 bottled and well corked up4 ,and now1 having given directions for the manufacture of sundry cloyless sauces--with only one of the number having any connection with ,ala1 and that one a sauce of world-wide reputation1 ,i will conclude this chapter with a little fancy work4 ,it is not probable that many who do me the honour to skim through these humble1 faultily-written1 but heartfelt gastronomic hints are personally acquainted with the cloyless ,sambal1 who is a lady of dusky origin4 ,but let us quit metaphor1 and direct the gardener to ,cut the finest and straightest cucumber in his crystal palace4 ,cut both ends off1 and divide the remainder into two-inch lengths4 ,peel these1 and let them repose in salt to draw out the water1 which is the indigestible part of the cucumber4 ,then take each length1 in succession1 and with a very sharp knife--a penknife is best for the purpose--pare it from surface to centre1 until it has become one long1 curly shred4 ,curl it up tight1 so that it may resemble in form the spring of a ,waterbury watch4 ,cut the length through from end to end1 until you have made numerous long thin shreds4 ,treat each length in the same way1 and place in a glass dish4 ,add three green chilies1 chopped fine1 a few chopped spring onions1 and some tiny shreds of the ,blue ,fish of ,java4 ,having performed a fishless pilgrimage in search of this curiosity1 you will naturally fall back upon the common or ,italian anchovy1 which1 after extracting the brine and bones1 and cleansing1 chop fine4 ,pour a little vinegar over the mixture4 ,sambal will be found a delicious accompaniment to curry--when served on a salad plate--or to almost any description of cold meat and cheese4 ,it is only fair to add1 however1 that the task of making the relish is arduous and exasperating to a degree2 and that the woman who makes it--no male ,christian in the world is possessed of a tithe of the necessary patience1 now that ,job and ,robert ,bruce are no more--should have the apartment to herself4 ,for the labour is calculated to teach an entirely new language to the manufacturer4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,supper ,we are such stuff ,as dreams are made of4 ,cleopatra's supper--,oysters--,danger in the ,aden bivalve--,oyster stew--,ball suppers--,pretty dishes--,the ,taj ,mahal--,aspic--,bloater paste and whipped cream--,ladies' recipes--,cookery colleges--,tripe--,smothered in onions--,north ,riding fashion--,an hotel supper--,lord ,tomnoddy at the ,magpie and ,stump4 ,that cruel and catlike courtesan1 ,cleopatra1 is alleged to have given the most expensive supper on record1 and to have disposed of the bonne bouche herself1 in the shape of a pearl1 valued at the equivalent of #bej1jjj1 dissolved in vinegar of extra strength4 ,such a sum is rather more than is paid for a supper at the ,savoy1 or the ,cecil1 or the ,metropole1 in these more practical times1 when pearls are to be had cheaper2 and there is probably about as much truth in this pearl story as in a great many others of the same period4 ,i have heard of a fair declasse leader of fashion at ,monte ,carlo1 who commanded that her major domo should be put to death for not having telegraphed to ,paris for peaches1 for a special dinner2 but the woman who could melt a pearl in vinegar1 and then drink----halte la6 ,perhaps the pearl was displayed in the deep shell of the oyster of which the noble curtesan partook8 ,we know how ,mark ,antony's countrymen valued the succulent bivalve2 and probably an oyster feast at ,wady ,halfa or ,dongola was a common function long before ,london knew a ,scott's1 a ,pimm's1 or a ,sweeting's4 ,thanks partly to the typhoid scare1 but principally to the prohibitive price1 the native industry of ,britain has been1 at the latter end of the nineteenth century1 by no means active1 although in the illustrated annuals ,uncle ,john still brings with him a barrel of the luscious bivalves1 in addition to assorted toys for the children1 when he arrives in the midst of a snow-storm at the old hall on ,christmas ,eve4 ,but ,uncle ,john1 that good fairy of our youth1 when ,charles ,dickens invented the festive season1 and the very atmosphere reeked of goose-stuffing1 resides1 for the most part1 in ,sheffield1 in these practical days1 when sentiment and goodwill to relatives are rapidly giving place to matters of fact1 motor cars1 and mammoth rates4 ,the ,asiatic oyster is not altogether commendable1 his chief merit consisting in his size4 ,once whilst paying a flying visit to the city of ,kurachi1 ,i ordered a dozen oysters at the principal hotel4 ,then ,i went out to inspect the lions4 ,on my return ,i could hardly push my way into the coffee-room4 ,it was full of oyster6 ,there was no room for anything else4 ,in fact one ,kurachi oyster is a meal for four full-grown men4 ,more tragic still was my experience of the bivalves procurable at ,aden--which cinder-heap ,i have always considered to be a foretaste of even hotter things below4 ,instead of living on coal-dust 7as might naturally be expected7 the ,aden oyster appears to do himself particularly well on some preparation of copper4 ,the only time ,i tasted him1 the after consequences very nearly prevented my ever tasting anything else1 on this sphere4 ,and it was only the comfort administered by the steward of my cabin which got me round4 ,ah6 said that functionary1 as he looked in to see whether ,i would take hot pickled pork or roast goose for dinner4 ,the last time we touched at ,aden1 there was two gents 'ad 'ysters4 ,one of 'em died the same night1 and the other nex' mornin'4 ,i laughed so much that the poison left my system4 ,yet still we eat oysters--the ,sans ,bacilles brand1 for choice4 ,and if we can only persuade the young gentleman who opens the bivalves to refrain from washing the grit off each in the tub of dirty water behind the bar1 so much the better4 ,and above all1 the bivalves should be opened on the deep shell1 so as to conserve some of the juice2 for it is advisable to get as much of the bivalve as we can for the money4 ,every time ,i crunch the bones of a lark ,i feel that ,i am devouring an oratorio1 in the way of song2 and whilst the bivalve is sliding down the red lane it may be as well to reflect that there slips away fourpence2 or1 as the ,scotsman had it1 bang went saxpence6 ,in connection with ,mr4 ,bob ,sawyer's supper party in ,pickwick1 it may be recollected that the man to whom the order for the oysters had been sent had not been told to open them2 it is a very difficult thing to open an oyster with a limp knife or a two-pronged fork3 and very little was done in this way4 ,and in one's own house1 unless there be an adept at oyster-opening present1 the simplest way to treat the bivalve is the following4 ,it should be remembered that a badly-opened oyster will resemble in flavour a slug on a gravel walk4 ,so roast him1 good friends1 in his own fortress4 ,oysters in their own ,juice4 ,with the tongs place half-a-dozen oysters1 mouths outwards1 between the red-hot coals of the parlour or dining-room fire--the deep shell must be at the bottom--and the oysters will be cooked in a few minutes1 or when the shells gape wide4 ,pull them out with the tongs1 and insert a fresh batch4 ,no pepper1 vinegar1 or lemon juice is necessary as an adjunct2 and the oyster never tastes better4 ,at most eating-houses1 ,scalloped ,oysters taste of nothing but scorched bread-crumbs2 and the reason is obvious1 for there is but little else in the scallop shell4 ,natives only should be used4 ,open and beard two dozen1 and cut each bivalve in half4 ,melt two ounces of butter in a stewpan1 and mix into it the same allowance of flour1 the strained oyster liquor1 a teacupful of cream1 half a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies1 and a pinch of cayenne--death to the caitiff who adds nutmeg--and stir the sauce well over the fire4 ,take it off1 and add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs1 a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley1 and a teaspoonful of lemon juice4 ,put in the oysters1 and stir the whole over a gentle fire for five minutes4 ,put the mixture in the shells1 grate bread-crumbs over1 place a small piece of butter atop1 and bake in a ,dutch oven before a clear fire until the crumbs are lightly browned1 which should be in about a quarter of an hour4 ,oyster ,stew is thoroughly understood in ,new ,york ,city4 ,on this side1 the dish does not meet with any particular favour1 although no supper-table is properly furnished without it4 ,open two dozen oysters1 and take the beards off4 ,put the oysters into a basin and squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon4 ,put the beards and the strained liquor into a saucepan with half a blade of mace1 half a dozen peppercorns ground1 a little grated lemon rind1 and a pinch of cayenne4 ,simmer gently for a quarter of an hour1 strain the liquid1 thicken it with a little butter and flour1 add a quarter of a pint 7or a teacupful7 of cream1 and stir over the fire till quite smooth4 ,then put in the oysters1 and let them warm through--they must not boil4 ,serve in a soup tureen1 and little cubes of bread fried in bacon grease may be served with the stew1 as with pea-soup4 ,be very careful to whose care you entrust your barrel1 or bag1 of oysters1 after you have got them home4 ,a consignment of the writer's were1 on one memorable and bitter cold ,christmas ,eve1 consigned to the back dairy1 by ,matilda ,anne4 ,result--frostbite1 gapes1 dissolution1 disappointment1 disagreeable language4 ,ball ,suppers4 ,more hard cash is wasted on these than even on ball dresses1 which is saying a great deal4 ,the alien caterer1 or charcutier1 is chiefly to blame for this2 for he it is who has taught the ,british matron to wrap up wholesome food in coats of grease1 inlaid with foreign substances1 to destroy its flavour1 and to bestow upon it an outward semblance other than its own4 ,there was handed unto me1 only the other evening1 what ,i at first imagined to be a small section of the celebrated ,taj ,mahal at ,agra1 the magnificent mausoleum of the ,emperor ,shah ,jehan4 ,reference to the bill-of-fare established the fact that ,i was merely sampling a galantine of turkey1 smothered in some white glazy grease1 inlaid with chopped carrot1 green peas1 truffles1 and other things4 ,and the marble column 7also inlaid7 which might have belonged to ,king ,solomon's ,temple1 at the top of the table1 turned out to be a ,tay salmon1 decorated la mode de charcutier1 and tasting principally of garlic4 ,a shriek from a fair neighbour caused me to turn my head in her direction2 and it took some little time to discover1 and to convince her1 that the item on her plate was not a mouse1 too frightened to move1 but some preparation of the liver of a goose1 in aspic4 ,this said ,,aspic--which has no connection with the asp which the fair ,cleopatra kept on the premises1 although a great ,french lexicographer says that aspic is so called because it is as cold as a snake--is invaluable in the numerous schools of cookery in the which ,british females are educated according to the teaching of the bad fairy ,ala4 ,the cold chicken and ham which delighted our ancestors at the supper-table--what has become of them8 ,yonder1 my dear sir1 is the fowl1 in neat portions1 minced1 and made to represent fragments of the almond rock which delighted us whilst in the nursery4 ,the ham has become a ridiculous mousse1 placed in little accordion-pleated receptacles of snow-white paper2 and those are not poached eggs atop1 either1 but dabs of whipped cream with a preserved apricot in the centre4 ,it was only the other day that ,i read in a journal written by ladies for ladies1 of a dainty dish for luncheon or supper3 crotons smeared with bloater paste and surmounted with whipped cream2 and in the same paper was a recipe for stuffing a fresh herring with mushrooms1 parsley1 yolk of egg1 onion1 and its own soft roe4 ,i am of opinion that it was a bad day for the male ,briton when the gudewife1 with her gude-daughter1 and her gude cook1 abandoned the gude roast and boiled1 in favour of the works of the all-powerful ,ala4 ,and now let us proceed to discuss the most homely supper of all1 and when ,i mention the magic word ,tripe there be few of my readers who will not at once allow that it is not only the most homely of food1 but forms an ideal supper4 ,this doctrine had not got in its work1 however1 in the 'sixties1 at about which period the man who avowed himself an habitual tripe-eater must have been possessed of a considerable amount of nerve4 ,some of the supper-houses served it--such as the ,albion1 the ,coal ,hole1 and more particularly1 ,noakes's1 the familiar name for the old ,opera ,tavern which used to face the ,royal ,italian ,opera ,house1 in ,bow ,street1 ,covent ,garden4 ,but the more genteel food-emporiums fought shy of tripe until within three decades of the close of the nineteenth century4 ,then it began to figure on the supper bills1 in out-of-the-way corners2 until supper-eaters in general discovered that this was not only an exceedingly cheap1 but a very nourishing article of food1 which did not require any special divine aid to digest4 ,then the price of tripe went up #ge per cent on the programmes4 ,then the most popular burlesque artiste of any age put the stamp of approval upon the new supper-dish1 and tripe-dressing became as lucrative a profession as gold-crushing4 ,there is a legend afloat of an eminent actor--poor ,ned ,sothern1 ,i fancy1 as ,johnny ,toole would never have done such a thing--who bade some of his friends and acquaintance to supper1 and regaled them on sundry rolls of house flannel1 smothered with the orthodox onion sauce4 ,but that is another story4 ,practical jokes should find no place in this volume1 which is written to benefit1 and not alarm1 posterity4 ,therefore let us discuss the problem ,how to ,cook ,tripe4 ,ask for double-tripe1 and see that the dresser gives it you nice and white4 ,wash it1 cut into portions1 and place in equal parts of milk and water1 boiling fast4 ,remove the saucepan from the hottest part of the fire1 and let the tripe keep just on the boil for an hour and a half4 ,serve with whole onions and onion sauce--in this work you will not be told how to manufacture onion sauce--and baked potatoes should always accompany this dish to table4 ,some people like their tripe cut into strips rolled up and tied with cotton1 before being placed in the saucepan2 but there is really no necessity to take this further trouble4 ,and if the cook should forget to remove the cotton before serving1 you might get your tongues tied in knots4 ,in the ,north ,riding of ,yorkshire1 some of the farmers' wives egg-and-bread-crumb fillets of tripe1 and fry them in the drip of thick rashers of ham which have been fried previously4 ,the ham is served in the centre of the dish1 with the fillets around the pig-pieces4 ,this is said to be an excellent dish1 but ,i prefer my tripe smothered in onions1 like the timid bunny4 ,edmund ,yates1 in his ,reminiscences1 describes nice1 cosy1 little suppers1 of which in his early youth he used to partake1 at the house of his maternal grandfather1 in ,kentish ,town4 ,he dined at two o'clock1 observed the late proprietor of the ,world1 and had the most delightful suppers at nine2 suppers of sprats1 or kidneys1 or tripe and onions2 with foaming porter and hot grog afterwards4 ,i cannot share the enthusiasm possessed by some people for ,,sprats1 as an article of diet4 ,when very full-blown1 the little fish make an excellent fertiliser for ,marshal ,niel roses2 but as winter whitebait1 or sardines they are hardly up to ,derby form4 ,sprats are not much encouraged at the fashionable hotels2 and when tripe is brought to table1 which is but rarely1 that food is nearly always filleted1 sprinkled with chopped parsley1 and served with tomato sauce4 ,this is the sort of supper which is provided in the gilt-edged caravanserais of the metropolis1 the following being a verbatim copy of a bill of fare at the ,hotel ,cecil3-- ,,souper1 #es4 ,consomm ,riche en tasses4 ,laitances ,frites1 ,villeroy4 ,cte de ,mouton aux ,haricots ,verts4 ,chaudfroid de ,mauviettes4 ,strasbourg evisie4 ,salade4 ,biscuit ,cecil4 ,a lady-like repast this2 and upon the whole1 not dear4 ,but roast loin of mutton hardly sounds tasty enough for a meal partaken of somewhere about the stroke of midnight4 ,still1 such a supper is by no means calculated to murder sleep4 ,upon the other hand it is a little difficult to credit the fact that the whole of the party invited by ,my ,lord ,tomnoddy to refresh themselves at the ,magpie and ,stump1 including the noble host himself1 should have slumbered peacefully1 with a noisy crowd in the street1 after a supper which consisted of ,cold fowl and cigars1 ,pickled onions in jars1 ,welsh rabbits and kidneys1 ,rare work for the jaws4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,supper 7continued7 ,to feed were best at home2 ,from thence the sauce to meat is ceremony2 ,meeting were bare without it4 ,old supper-houses--,the ,early ,closing ,act--,evans's--,cremorne ,gardens--,the ,albion--,parlour cookery--,kidneys fried in the fire-shovel--,the true way to grill a bone--,cannie ,carle--,my lady's bower--,kidney dumplings--,a ,middleham supper--,steaks cut from a colt by brother to ,strafford out of sister to ,bird on the ,wing4 ,the ,early ,closing ,act of #ahgb had a disastrous effect upon the old ,london supper-houses4 ,what ,mr4 ,john ,hollingshead never tired of calling the slap-me-and-put-me-to-bed law rang the knell of many a licensed tavern1 well-conducted1 where plain1 well-cooked food and sound liquor were to be obtained by men who would have astonished their respective couches had they sought them before the small hours4 ,evans's4 ,the ,cave of ,harmony of ,thackeray was a different place to the ,evans's of my youthful days4 ,like the younger ,newcome1 ,i was taken there in the first instance1 by the author of my being4 ,but ,captain ,costigan was conspicuous by his absence2 and ,sam ,hall was non est4 ,i noted well the abnormal size of the broiled kidneys1 and in my ignorance of anatomy1 imagined that ,evans's sheep must be subjected to somewhat the same process--the ordeal by fire--as the ,strasbourg geese4 ,and the potatoes--zounds1 sirs6 ,what potatoes6 ,shall ,i turn it out1 sir8 inquired the attentive waiter2 and1 as he seized the tuber1 enveloped in the snow-white napkin1 broke it in two1 and ejected a floury pyramid upon my plate1 ,i would1 had ,i known of such a decoration in those days1 have gladly recommended that attendant for the ,distinguished ,service order4 ,in the course of many visits ,i never saw any supper commodity served here besides chops1 steaks1 kidneys1 welsh-rarebits1 poached eggs1 and 7,i think7 sausages2 and the earliest impression made upon a youthful memory was the air of extreme confidence which pervaded the place4 ,we certainly remembered the waiter2 but not even a potato was paid for until we encountered the head functionary at the exit door2 and his peculiar ideas of arithmetic would have given ,bishop ,colenso a succession of fits4 ,who ,evans was1 we neither knew nor cared4 ,paddy ,green1 with his chronic smile1 was enough for us2 as he proffered his ever-ready snuff-box1 inquired after our relatives--,paddy1 like ,spanky at ,eton1 knew everybody--and implored silence whilst the quintette ,integer ,vit was being sung by the choir4 ,we used to venerate that quintette far more than any music we ever heard in church1 and ,i am certain ,paddy ,green would have backed his little pack of choristers--who1 according to the general belief1 passed the hours of daylight in waking the echoes of ,st4 ,paul's ,cathedral1 or ,westminster ,abbey1 and therefore1 at ,evans's1 always looked a bit stale and sleepy--against any choir in the world4 ,as for ,harry ,sidney1 the fat1 jolly-looking gentleman who was wont to string together the topics of the day and reproduce them1 fresh as rolls1 set to music1 we could never hear enough of him2 and ,i wish ,i had now some of the half-crowns which in the past were bestowed upon ,herr ,von ,joel1 the indifferent siffleur1 who was permanently retained upon the premises1 and who was always going to take a benefit the following week4 ,kidneys and 'armony--that was the old programme in the ,cave4 ,and then the march of time killed poor old ,paddy1 and another management reigned4 ,gradually the lady element was introduced1 and a portion of the hall was set apart for the mixed assembly4 ,and then came trouble1 and1 finally1 disestablishment4 ,and for some time before the closing of the ,cave as a place of entertainment1 it was customary to remove the fine old pictures 7what became of them1 ,i wonder71 from the walls1 at ,varsity ,boat ,race time4 ,for the undergraduate of those days was nothing if not rowdy4 ,youth will have its fling2 and at ,evans's the fling took the form of tumblers4 ,well do ,i recollect a fight in the old style in the very part of the ,cave where eminent barristers1 actors1 and other wits of a past age1 used to congregate4 ,the premier boxer of ,cambridge ,university had been exercising his undoubted talents as a breaker of glass1 during the evening1 and at length the overwrought manager obliged him with an opponent worthy of his fists in the person of a waiter who could also put up his fists4 ,several rounds were fought1 strictly according to the rules of the ,prize ,ring1 and in the result1 whilst the waiter had sustained considerable damage to his ribs1 the ,cambridge gent had two very fine black eyes4 ,well do ,i remember that mill1 also the waiter1 who afterwards became an habitual follower of the turf4 ,if ,cremorne introduced the fashion of long drinks1 sodas1 and et ceteras1 the suppers served in the old gardens had not much to recommend them4 ,a slice or two of cold beef1 or a leg of a chicken1 with some particularly salt ham1 formed the average fare2 but those who possessed their souls with patience occasionally saw something hot1 in the way of food--chiefly cutlets4 ,the great virtue of the cutlet is that it can be reheated2 and one dish not infrequently did duty for more than one party4 ,the rejected portion1 in fact1 would reappear as often as a retiring actor4 ,i know them salmon cutlets1 the waiter in ,pink ,dominoes used to observe1 as well as ,i know my own mother6 ,in fact1 ,cremorne1 like the night houses of old1 was not an ideal place to sup at4 ,but1 per contra1 the ,albion was4 ,until the enforcement of the slap-me-and-put-me-to-bed policy there was no more justly celebrated house of entertainment than the one which almost faced the stage door of ,drury ,lane theatre1 in ,great ,russell ,street4 ,one of the brothers ,cooper--another kept the ,rainbow in ,fleet ,street--retired on a fortune made here1 simply by pursuing the policy of giving his customers the best of everything4 ,and a rare1 ,bohemian stamp of customers he had1 too--a nice1 large-hearted1 open-handed lot of actors1 successful and otherwise1 dramatic critics ditto1 and ditto journalists1 also variegated in degree2 with the usual1 necessary1 leavening of the ,city element4 ,the custom of the fair sex was not encouraged at the old tavern2 though in a room on the first floor they were permitted to sup1 if in the profession and accompanied by males1 whose manners and customs could be vouched for4 ,in winter time1 assorted grills1 of fish1 flesh1 and fowl1 were served as supper dishes2 whilst tripe was the staple food4 ,welsh rarebits1 too1 were in immense demand4 ,and ,i think it was here that ,i devoured1 with no fear of the future before my plate1 a ,buck ,rarebit4 ,during the silent watches of the rest of the morning1 bile and dyspepsia fought heroically for my soul2 and yet the little animal is easy enough to prepare1 being nothing grander than a ,welsh rarebit1 with a poached egg atop4 ,but the little tins 7silver1 like the forks and spoons1 until the greed and forgetfulness of mankind necessitated the substitution of electro-plate7 which the ,hebes at the ,old ,cheshire ,cheese fill with fragments of the hostelry's godfather--subsequently to be stewed in good old ale--are less harmful to the interior of the human diaphragm4 ,a favourite ,albion supper-dish during the summer months was ,lamb's ,head and ,mince4 ,i have preserved the recipe1 a gift from one of the waiters--but whether ,ponsford1 ,taylor1 or ,shakespeare 7so-called because he bore not the faintest resemblance to the immortal bard7 ,i forget--and here it is3 ,the head should be scalded1 scraped1 and well washed4 ,don't have it singed1 in the ,scottish fashion1 as lamb's wool is not nice to eat4 ,then put it1 with the liver 7the sweetbread was chopped up with the brain1 ,i fancy71 into a stewpan1 with a ,spanish onion stuck with cloves1 a bunch of parsley1 a little thyme1 a carrot1 a turnip1 a bay leaf1 some crushed peppercorns1 a tablespoonful of salt1 and half a gallon of cold water4 ,let it boil up1 skim1 and then simmer for an hour4 ,divide the head1 take out the tongue and brain1 and dry the rest of the head in a cloth4 ,mince the liver and tongue1 season with salt and pepper1 and simmer in the original gravy 7thickened7 for half-an-hour4 ,brush the two head-halves with yolk of egg1 grate bread crumbs over1 and bake in oven4 ,the brain and sweetbread to be chopped and made into cakes1 fried1 and then placed in the dish around the head-halves4 ,ah me6 ,the old tavern1 after falling into bad ways1 entertaining extra-ladies and ruined gamesters1 has been closed for years4 ,the ground floor was a potato warehouse the last time ,i passed the place4 ,and it should be mentioned that the actors1 journalists1 etc41 who1 in the 'seventies1 possessed smaller means1 or more modest ambitions1 were in the habit of supping--on supping days--at a cheaper haunt in the ,strand1 off 7alleged7 roast goose4 ,but1 according to one ,joseph ,eldred1 a comedian of some note and shirt-cuff1 the meat which was apportioned to us here was1 in reality1 always bullock's heart1 sliced1 and with a liberal allowance of sage and onions4 ,it's the seasoning as does it1 observed ,mr4 ,samuel ,weller4 ,then there was another ,bohemian house of call1 and supper place1 in those nights--the ,occidental1 once known as the ,coal ,hole1 where1 around a large1 beautifully polished mahogany table1 many of the wits of the town--,harry ,leigh and ,tom ,purnell were two of the inveterates--sat1 and devoured ,welsh rarebits1 and other things4 ,the house1 too1 could accommodate not a few lodgers2 and one of its great charms was that nobody cared a button what time you retired to your couch1 or what time you ordered breakfast4 ,in these matters1 the ,occidental resembled the ,limmer's of the ,billy ,duff era1 and the ,lane's of my own dear subaltern days4 ,parlour ,cookery4 ,it was after the last-named days that1 whilst on tour with various dramatic combinations--more from necessity than art1 as far as ,i was concerned--that the first principles of parlour cookery became impregnated in mine understanding4 ,we were not all stars1 although we did our best4 ,salaries were 7according to the advertisements7 low but sure2 and 7according to experiences7 by no means as sure as death1 or taxes4 ,the spectre did not invariably assume his martial stalk1 of a ,saturday2 and cheap provincial lodgings do not hold out any extra inducement in the way of cookery4 ,so1 whilst we endured the efforts of the good landlady at the early dinner1 some of us determined to dish up our own suppers4 ,for the true artist never really feels 7or never used to feel1 at all events7 like picking a bit until merely commercial folks have gone to bed4 ,many a time and oft1 with the aid of a cigar box 7empty1 of course71 a couple of books1 and an arrangement of plates1 have ,i prepared a savoury supper of mushrooms1 toasted cheese1 or a kebob of larks1 or other small fowl1 in front of the fire4 ,more than once have ,i received notice to quit the next morning for grilling kidneys on the perforated portion of a handsome and costly steel fire-shovel4 ,and by the time ,i had become sufficiently advanced in culinary science to stew tripe and onions1 in an enamel-lined saucepan1 the property of the responsible gent1 we began to give ourselves airs4 ,landladies' ideas on the subject of supper for theatricals1 it may be mentioned1 seldom soared above yeast dumplings4 ,and few of us liked the name1 even1 of yeast dumplings4 ,but perhaps the champion effort of all was when ,i was sojourning in the good city of ,carlisle--known to its inhabitants by the pet name of ,cannie ,carle4 ,a good lady was1 for her sins1 providing us with board and lodging1 in return for 7promised7 cash4 ,my then companion was a merry youth who afterwards achieved fame by writing the very funniest and one of the most successful of three-act farces that was ever placed upon the stage4 ,now there is not much the matter with a good joint of ribs of beef1 roasted to a turn4 ,but when that beef is placed on the table hot for the ,sunday dinner1 and cold at every succeeding meal until finished up1 one's appetite for the flesh of the ox begins to slacken4 ,so we determined on the ,wednesday night to strike for a tripe supper4 ,indeed1 protested the good landlady1 ye'll get nae tripe in this hoose1 cannie men4 ,hae ye no' got guid beef1 the noo8 ,late that night we had grilled bones for supper2 not the ordinary ,grilled ,bones which you get in an eating house1 but a vastly superior article4 ,we1 or rather my messmate1 cut a rib from off the aforementioned beef1 scored the flesh across1 and placed the bone in the centre of a beautifully clear fire which had been specially prepared4 ,it was placed there by means of the tongs--a weapon of inestimable value in ,parlour ,cookery--and withdrawn by the same medium4 ,some of the black wanted scraping off the surface of the meat1 but the grill was a perfect dream4 ,the ,,gubbins ,,sauce1 already mentioned in this volume1 had not at that time been invented2 but as ,i was never without a bottle of ,,tapp ,,sauce--invaluable for ,parlour ,cookery2 you can get it at ,stembridge's--we had plenty of relish4 ,then we severed another rib from the carcase1 and served it in the same manner4 ,for it was winter time and we had wearied of frigid ox4 ,next morning the landlady's face was a study4 ,i rather think that after some conversation1 we propitiated her with an order for two for the dress circle2 but it is certain that we had tripe that evening4 ,an ideal supper in miladi's boudoir is associated1 in the writer's mind1 with rose-coloured draperies1 dainty china1 a cosy fire1 a liberal display of lingerie1 a strong perfume of heliotrope and orris root--and miladi herself4 ,when next she invites her friends1 she will kindly order the following repast to be spread3-- ,clear soup1 in cups4 ,fillets of soles ,parisienne4 ,chaudfroid of ,quails4 ,barded sweetbreads4 ,perigord pt4 ,by way of contrast1 let me quote a typical supper-dish which the poor player used to order1 when he could afford it4 ,kidney ,dumpling4 ,cut a large ,spanish onion in half4 ,take out the heart1 and substitute a sheep's kidney1 cut into four4 ,season with salt and pepper1 join the two halves1 and enclose in a paste4 ,bake on a buttered tin1 in a moderate oven1 for about an hour4 ,n4,b4--,be sure the cook bakes this dumpling1 as it is not nice boiled4 ,an artistic friend who at one time of his life resided near the great horse-training centre of ,middleham1 in ,yorkshire1 gave a steak supper at the principal inn1 to some of the stable attendants4 ,the fare was highly approved of4 ,best ,scotch beef ,i ever put tooth into6 observed the head lad at old ,tom ,lawson's stables4 ,ah6 returned the host1 who was a bit of a wag1 your beef was cut from a colt of ,lord ,glasgow's that was thought highly of at one time2 and he was shot the day before yesterday4 ,and it was so4 ,for ,lord ,glasgow never sold nor gave away a horse1 but had all his failures shot4 ,and then a great cry went up for brown brandy4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,camping ,,out ,thou didst eat strange flesh1 ,which some did die to look on4 ,the ups and downs of life--,stirring adventures--,marching on to glory--,shooting in the tropics--,pepper-pot--,with the ,rajah ,sahib--,goat-sacrifices at breakfast time--,simla to ,cashmere--,manners and customs of ,thibet--,burmah--,no place to get fat in--,insects--,voracity of the natives--,snakes--,sport in the ,jungle--,loaded for snipe1 sure to meet tiger--,with the gippos--,no baked hedgehog--,cheap milk4 ,the intelligent reader may have gathered from some of the foregoing pages that the experiences of the writer have been of a variegated nature4 ,as an habitual follower of the ,turf once observed3 ,when we're rich we rides in chaises1 ,and when we're broke we walks like ---- ,never mind what4 ,it was an evil man who said it1 but he was a philosopher4 ,dinner in the gilded saloon one day1 on the next no dinner at all1 and the key of the street4 ,such is life6 ,those experiences do not embrace a mortal combat with a grizzly in the ,rockies1 nor a tramp through a miasma-laden forest in ,darkest ,africa1 with nothing better to eat than poisonous fungi1 assorted grasses1 red ants1 and dwarfs2 nor yet a bull fight4 ,but they include roughing it in the bush1 on underdone bread and scorched kangaroo1 a tramp from ,benares to the frontier of ,british ,india1 another tramp or two some way beyond that frontier1 a dreadful journey across the eternal snows of the ,himalayas1 a day's shooting in the ,khyber ,pass1 a railway accident in ,middlesex1 a mad elephant 7he had killed seven men1 one of them blind7 hunt at ,thayet ,myoo1 in ,british ,burmah1 a fine snake anecdote or two1 a night at ,cambridge with an escaped lunatic1 a tiger story 7of course71 and a capture for debt by an officer of the ,sheriff of ,pegu1 with no other clothing on his body than a short jacket of gaily coloured silk1 and a loin cloth4 ,my life's history is never likely to be written--chiefly through sheer laziness on my own part1 and the absence of the gambling instinct on that of the average publisher--but like the brown gentleman who smothered his wife1 ,i have seen things4 ,in this chapter no allusion will be made to up river delights1 the only idea of camping out which is properly understood by the majority of up to date young men and maidens2 for this theme has been already treated1 most comically and delightfully1 by ,mr4 ,jerome1 in the funniest book ,i ever read4 ,my own camping experiences have been for the most part in foreign lands1 though ,i have seen the sun rise1 whilst reclining beneath the ,royal trees in ,st4 ,james's ,park2 and as this book is supposed to deal with gastronomy1 rather than adventure1 a brief sketch of camp life must suffice4 ,on the march6 ,what a time those who served the ,widdy--by which disrespectful term1 our revered ,sovereign was not known in those days--used to have before the continent of ,india had been intersected by the railroad6 ,the absence of one's proper quantum of rest1 the forced marches over kutcha 7imperfectly made7 bye-roads1 the sudden changes of temperature1 raids of the native thief1 the troubles with bobbery camels1 the still more exasperating behaviour of the bail-wallahs 7bullock-drivers71 the awful responsibilities of the officer-on-baggage-guard1 on active duty1 often in the saddle for fifteen hours at a stretch1 the absolutely necessary cattle-raids1 by the roadside--all these things are well known to those who have undergone them1 but are far too long another story to be related here4 ,as for the food partaken of during a march with the regiment1 the bill-of-fare differed but little from that of the cantonments2 but the officer who spent a brief holiday in a shooting expedition had to rough it in more ways than one4 ,there was plenty of game all over the continent in my youthful days1 and the average shot need not have lacked a dinner1 even if he had not brought with him a consignment of ,europe provisions4 ,english bread was lacking1 certainly1 and biscuits1 native or otherwise--otherwise for choice1 as the bazaar article tasted principally of pin-cushions and the smoke of dried and lighted cow-dung--or the ordinary chupatti1 the flat1 unleavened cake1 which the poor ,indian manufactures for his own consumption4 ,cold tea is by far the best liquid to carry--or rather to have carried for you--whilst actually shooting2 but the weary sportsman will require something more exciting1 and more poetical1 on his return to camp4 ,as for solid fare it was usually ,pepper-pot for dinner1 day by day4 ,we called it ,pepper-pot--that is to say1 although it differed somewhat from the ,west ,indian concoction of that name1 for which the following is the recipe3-- ,put the remains of any cold flesh or fowl into a saucepan1 and cover with cassaripe--which has been already described in the ,curry chapter as extract of ,manioc root4 ,heat up the stew and serve4 ,our pepper-pot was usually made in a gipsy-kettle1 suspended from a tripod4 ,the foundation of the stew was always a tin of some kind of soup4 ,then a few goat chops--mutton is bad to buy out in the jungle--and then any bird or beast that may have been shot1 divided into fragments4 ,i have frequently made a stew of this sort1 with so many ingredients in it that the flavour when served out at table--or on the bullock-trunk which often did duty for a table--would have beaten the wit of man to describe4 ,there was hare soup intil't 7as the ,scotsman said to the late ,prince ,consort71 and a collop or two of buffalo-beef1 with snipe1 quails1 and jungle-fowl4 ,there were half the neck of an antelope and a few sliced onions lurking within the bowl4 ,and there were potatoes intil't1 and plenty of pepper and salt4 ,and for lack of cassaripe we flavoured the savoury mess with mango chutnee and ,tapp sauce4 ,and if any cook1 ,english or foreign1 can concoct a more worthy dish than this1 or more grateful to the palate1 said cook can come my way4 ,the old dak gharry method of travelling in ,india may well come under the head of ,camping ,out4 ,in the hot weather we usually progressed--or got emptied into a ditch--or collided with something else1 during the comparative coolth of the night2 resting 7which in ,hindustan usually means perspiring and calling the country names7 all day at one or other of the dak bungalows provided by a benevolent ,government for the use of the wandering sahib4 ,the larder at one of those rest-houses was seldom well filled4 ,although the khansamah who prostrated himself in the sand at your approach would declare that he was prepared to supply everything which the protector-of-the-poor might deign to order1 it would be found on further inquiry that the khansamah had1 like the ,player ,queen in ,hamlet1 protested too much--that he was a natural romancer4 ,and his everything usually resolved itself into a spatch-cock1 manufactured from the spectral rooster1 who had heralded the approach of the sahib's caravan4 ,a ,rajah's ideas of hospitality are massive4 ,labouring under the belief that the white sahib when not eating must necessarily be drinking1 the commissariat arrangements of ,rajahdom are on a colossal scale--for the chief benefit of his major domo4 ,i might have bathed in dry champagne1 had the idea been pleasing1 whilst staying with a certain genial prince1 known to irreverent ,british subalterns as ,old ,coppertail2 whilst the bedroom furniture was on the same liberal scale4 ,true1 ,i lay on an ordinary native charpoy1 which might have been bought in the bazaar for a few annas1 but there was a grand piano in one corner of the apartment1 and a buhl cabinet containing rare china in another4 ,there was a coloured print of the ,governor-,general over the doorway1 and an oil painting of the ,judgment of ,solomon over the mantelshelf4 ,and on a table within easy reach of the bed was a silver-plated dinner service1 decked with fruits and sweetmeats1 and tins of salmon1 and pots of ,guava jelly and mixed pickles1 and two tumblers1 each of which would have easily held a week-old baby4 ,and there was a case of champagne beneath that table1 with every appliance for cutting wires and extracting the corks4 ,another time the writer formed one of a small party invited to share the hospitality of a potentate1 whose estate lay on the snowy side of ,simla4 ,the fleecy element1 however1 was not in evidence in ,june1 the month of our visit1 although towards ,december ,simla herself is usually wrapt in the white mantle1 and garrisoned by monkeys1 who have fled from the land of ice4 ,tents had been erected for us in a barren-looking valley1 somewhat famous1 however1 for the cultivation of potatoes4 ,there was an annual celebration of some sort1 the day after our arrival1 and for breakfast that morning an al fresco meal had been prepared for us1 almost within whispering distance of an heathen temple4 ,and it was a breakfast6 ,there was a turkey stuffed with a fowl1 to make the breast larger1 and there was a ,europe ham4 ,a tin of lobster1 a bottle of pickled walnuts1 a dreadful concoction1 alleged to be an omelette1 but looking more like the sole of a tennis shoe1 potatoes1 boiled eggs1 a dish of ,irish stew1 a fry of small fish1 a weird-looking curry1 a young goat roasted whole1 and a plum pudding6 ,the tea had hardly been poured out--,kussowlie beer1 ,epps's cocoa1 and 7of course7 champagne1 and ,john ,exshaw's brandy were also on tap--when a gentleman with very little on proceeded to decapitate a goat at the foot of the temple steps4 ,this was somewhat startling1 but when the 7presumed7 high-priest chopped off the head of another bleating victim1 our meal was interrupted4 ,the executions had been carried out in very simple fashion4 ,first1 the priest sprinkled a little water on the neck of the victim 7who was held in position by an assistant71 and then retired up the steps4 ,then1 brandishing a small sickle1 he rushed back1 and in an instant off went the head1 which was promptly carried1 reeking with gore1 within the temple4 ,but if1 as happened more than once1 the head was not sliced off at the initial attempt1 it was left on the ground when decapitation had been at length effected4 ,the deity inside was evidently a bit particular6 ,nine goats had been sacrificed1 ere our remonstrances were attended to2 and we were allowed to pursue our meal in peace4 ,but ,i don't think anybody had goat for breakfast that morning4 ,later on1 the fun of the fair commenced1 and the paharis1 or hill men1 trooped in from miles round1 with their sisters1 cousins1 and aunts4 ,their wives1 we imagined1 were too busily occupied in carrying their accustomed loads of timber to and fro4 ,your ,himalayan delights in a fair1 and the numerous swings and roundabouts were all well patronised2 whilst the jugglers1 and the snake charmers--in many instances it was difficult to tell at a glance which was charmer and which snake--were all well patronised4 ,later on1 when the lamps had been lit1 a burra ntch was started1 and the ,bengali ,baboos who had come all the way from ,simla in dhoolies to be present at this1 applauded vigorously4 ,and our host being in constant dread lest we should starve to death or expire of thirst1 never tired of bidding us to a succession of banquets at which we simply went through the forms of eating1 to please him4 ,and just when we began to get sleepy these simple hill folks commenced to dance amongst themselves4 ,they were just a little monotonous1 their choregraphic efforts4 ,parties of men linked arms and sidled around fires of logs1 singing songs of their mountain homes the while4 ,and as they were evidently determined to make a night of it1 sleep for those who understood not the game1 with their tents close handy1 was out of the question4 ,and when1 as soon as we could take our departure decently and decorously1 we started up the hill again1 those doleful monotonous dances were still in progress1 although the fires were out1 and the voices decidedly husky4 ,a native of the ,himalayas is nothing if not energetic--in his own interests be it understood4 ,a few months later ,i formed one of a small party who embarked on a more important expedition than the last named1 although we traversed the same road4 ,it is a journey which has frequently been made since1 from ,simla to ,cashmere1 going as far into the land of the ,great ,llama as the inhabitants will allow the stranger to do--which is not very far2 but1 in the early sixties there were but few white men who had even skirted ,thibet4 ,in the afternoon of life1 when stirring the fire has become preferable to stirring adventure1 it seems 7to the writer at all events7 very like an attempt at self-slaughter to have travelled so many hundreds of miles along narrow goatpaths1 with a khud 7precipice7 of thousands of feet on one side or the other2 picking one's way1 if on foot1 over the frequent avalanche 7or land slip1 as we called it in those days7 of shale or granite2 or if carried in a dhoolie--which is simply a hammock attached by straps to a bamboo pole--running the risk of being propelled over a precipice by your heathen carriers4 ,it is not the pleasantest of sensations to cross a mountain torrent by means of a frail bridge 7called a jhula7 of ropes made from twigs1 and stretched many feet above the torrent itself1 nor to weather a corner1 whilst clinging tooth and nail to the face of a cliff4 ,and when there is any riding to be done1 most people would prefer a hill pony to a yak1 the native ox of ,thibet4 ,by far the best part of a yak is his beautiful silky1 fleecy tail1 which is largely used in ,hindustan1 by dependants of governors-general1 commanders-in-chief1 and other mighty ones1 for the discomfiture of the frequent fly4 ,a very little equestrian exercise on the back of a yak goes a long way2 and if given my choice1 ,i would sooner ride a stumbling cab-horse in a saddle with spikes in it4 ,but those days were our salad ones2 we were not only green of judgment1 but admirers of the beautiful1 and reckless of danger4 ,but it was decidedly roughing it4 ,as it is advisable to traverse that track as lightly laden as possible1 we took but few ,europe provisions with us1 depending upon the villages1 for the most part1 for our supplies4 ,we usually managed to buy a little flour1 wherewith to make the inevitable chupati1 and at some of the co-operative stores en route1 we obtained mutton of fair flavour4 ,we did not know in those days that flesh exposed to the air1 in the higher ranges of the ,himalayas1 will not putrefy1 else we should have doubtless made a species of biltong of the surplus meat1 to carry with us in case of any famine about4 ,so short commons frequently formed the bill of fare4 ,our little stock of brandy was carefully husbanded1 against illness2 and1 judging from the subsequent histories of two of the party1 this was the most miraculous feature of the expedition4 ,for liquid refreshment we had neat water1 and th la mode de ,thibet4 ,doctor ,nansen1 in his book on the crossing of ,greenland1 inveighs strongly against the use of alcohol in an ,arctic expedition2 but ,i confess that the first time ,i tasted ,thibet tea ,i would have given both my ears for a soda and brandy4 ,the raw tea was compressed into the shape of a brick1 with the aid of--we did not inquire what2 its infusion was drunk1 either cold or lukewarm1 flavoured with salt1 and a small lump of butter which in any civilised police court would have gained the vendor a month's imprisonment without the option of a fine4 ,the people of the district were in the habit of gorging themselves with flesh when they could get it2 and polyandry was another of their pleasant customs4 ,we saw one lady who was married to three brothers1 but did not boast of it4 ,thibet is probably the most priest-ridden country in the world1 and ought to be the most religious2 for the natives can grind out their prayers1 on wheels1 at short intervals1 in pretty much the same way as we grind our coffee in dear old ,england4 ,but we reached the promised land at last2 and here at least there was no lack of food and drink4 ,meat was cheap in those days2 and one of the party1 without any bargaining whatever1 purchased a sheep for eight annas1 or one shilling sterling4 ,mutton is not quite as cheap at the time of writing this book 7#ahig71 ,i believe2 but in the long ago there were but few ,english visitors to the land of ,lalla ,rookh1 and those who did go had to obtain permission of the ,rajah1 through the ,british ,resident4 ,with improved transit1 and a railroad from ,rangoon to ,mandalay1 matters gastronomic may be better in ,british ,burmah nowadays2 but in the course of an almost world-wide experience ,i have never enjoyed food less than in ,pagoda-land during the sixties4 ,and as a ,burmese built house was not a whit more comfortable than a tent1 and far less waterproof1 this subject may well be included in the chapter headed ,camping ,out4 ,fruits there were1 varied and plentiful2 and if you only planted the crown of a pine-apple in your compound one evening you would probably find a decent-sized pine-apple above ground next--well1 next week4 ,at least so they told me when ,i arrived in the country4 ,this fruit1 in fact1 was so plentiful that we used to peel the pines1 and gnaw them1 just like a school-boy would gnaw the ordinary variety of apple4 ,but we had no mutton--not up the country1 that is to say2 and we were entirely dependent upon ,madras for potatoes4 ,therefore1 as there was only a steamer once a month from ,madras to ,rangoon1 which invariably missed the ,irrawaddy monthly mail-boat1 we exiles had to content ourselves with yams1 or the abominable preserved earth-apple4 ,the insects of the air wrestled with us at the mess-table1 for food2 and the man who did not swallow an evil-tasting fly of some sort in his soup was lucky4#i ,as for the food of the ,burman himself1 absolutely beastly was no name for it4 ,strips of cat-fish the colour of beef were served at his marriage feasts2 and he was especially fond of a condiment the name of which was pronounced nuppee--although that is probably not the correct spelling1 and ,i never studied the language of that country--which was concocted from a smaller description of fish1 buried in the earth until decomposition had triumphed1 and then mashed up with ghee 7clarified--and postponed--butter74 ,there was1 certainly1 plenty of shooting to be obtained in the district2 but1 as it rained in torrents for nine months in every year1 the shooter required a considerable amount of nerve1 and1 in addition to a ,boyton suit1 case-hardened lungs and throat4 ,and1 singularly enough1 it was an established fact that if loaded for snipe you invariably met a tiger1 or something else with sharp teeth1 and vice versa4 ,also1 you were exceptionally fortunate if you did not step upon one of the venomous snakes of the country1 of whom the hamadryad's bite was said to be fatal within five minutes4 ,i had omitted to mention that snake is also a favourite food of the ,burman2 and as ,i seldom went home of an evening without finding a rat-snake or two in the verandah1 or the arm-chair1 the natives had snake for breakfast1 most days4 ,the rat-snake is1 however1 quite harmless to life4 ,i have camped out in ,england once or twice2 once with a select circle of gipsies1 the night before the ,derby4 ,i wished merely to study character2 and1 after giving them a few words of the ,romany dialect1 and a good deal of tobacco1 ,i was admitted into their confidences4 ,but the experience gained was not altogether pleasing1 nor yet edifying2 nor did we have baked hedgehog for supper4 ,in fact ,i have never yet met the gippo 7most of them keep fowls7 who will own to having tasted this bonne bouche of the descriptive writer4 ,possibly this is on account of the scarcity of the hedgehog4 ,tea-kettle broth--bread sopped in water1 with a little salt and dripping to flavour the soup--on the other hand1 figures on most of the gipsy menus4 ,and upon one occasion1 very early in the morning1 another wanderer and the writer obtained much-needed liquid refreshment by milking the yield of a ,jersey cow into each other's mouths1 alternately4 ,but this was a long time ago1 and in the neighbourhood of ,bagshot ,heath1 and it was somebody else's cow2 so let no more be said about it4 ,i fear this chapter is not calculated to make many mouths water4 ,in fact what in the world has brought it into the midst of a work on gastronomy ,i am at a loss to make out4 ,however here it is4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,compound ,,drinks ,flow wine6 ,smile woman6 ,and the universe is consoled4 ,derivation of punch--,five--,the milk brand--,the best materials--,various other punches--,bischoff or ,bishop--,halo punch--,toddy--,the toddy tree of ,india--,flip--,a peg--,john ,collins--,out of the guard-room4 ,the subject of ,,punch is such an important one that it may be placed first on the list of dainty beverages which can be made by the art or application of man or woman4 ,first1 let us take the origin of the word4 ,,doctor ,,kitchener1 an acknowledged authority1 during his lifetime1 on all matters connected with eating and drinking1 has laid it down that punch is of ,west ,indian origin1 and that the word when translated1 means five2 because there be five ingredients necessary in the concoction of the beverage4 ,but ,doctor ,kitchener and his disciples 7of whom there be many7 may go to the bottom of the cookery class2 for although from the large connection which rum and limes have with the mixture1 there would seem to be a ,west ,indian flavour about it2 the word five1 when translated into ,west ,indianese1 is nothing like punch4 ,having satisfied themselves that this is a fact1 modern authorities have tried the ,east ,indies for the source of the name1 and have discovered that panch in ,hindustani really does mean five4 ,therefore1 says one modern authority1 it is named punch from the five ingredients which compose it--7#a7 spirit1 7#b7 acid1 7#c7 spice1 7#d7 sugar1 7#e7 water4 ,another modern authority calls punch a beverage introduced into ,england from ,india1 and so called from being usually made of five 7,hindi1 panch7 ingredients--arrack1 tea1 sugar1 water1 and lemon juice4 ,this sounds far more like an ,east ,indian concoction than the other2 but at the same time punch--during the latter half of the nineteenth century at all events--was as rare a drink in ,hindustan as bhang in ,great ,britain4 ,the panch theory is an ingenious one1 but there are plenty of other combinations 7both liquid and solid7 of five to which the word punch is never applied2 and about the last beverage recommended by the faculty for the consumption of the sojourner in the land of the ,great ,mogul1 would1 ,i should think1 be the entrancing1 seductive one which we ,britons know under the name of punch4 ,moreover it is not every punch-concoctor who uses five ingredients4 ,in the minds of some--youthful members of the ,stock ,exchange1 for the most part--water is an altogether unnecessary addition to the alcoholic mixture which is known by the above name4 ,and what manner of man would add spice to that delight of old ,ireland1 a jug o' punch8 ,on the other hand1 in many recipes1 there are more than five ingredients used4 ,but after all1 the origin of the name is of but secondary importance1 as long as you can make punch4 ,therefore1 we will commence with a few recipes for ,milk ,punch4 #a4 ,three bottles of rum4 ,the most delicately-flavoured rum is the ,liquid ,sunshine brand4 ,one bottle of sherry4 #ac lbs of loaf-sugar4 ,the rind of six lemons1 and the juice of twelve4 ,one quart of boiling skimmed milk4 ,mix together1 let the mixture stand eight days1 stirring it each day4 ,strain and bottle1 and let it stand three months4 ,then re-bottle1 and let the bottles lie on their sides in the cellar for two years1 to mature4 ,the flavour will be much better than if drunk after the first period of three months4 ,it is not everybody1 however1 who would care to wait two years1 three months1 and eight days for the result of his efforts in punch-making4 ,therefore another recipe may be appended2 and in this one no close time is laid down for the consumption of the mixture4 #b4 ,put into a bottle of rum or brandy the thinly-pared rinds of three ,seville oranges1 and three lemons4 ,cork tightly for two days4 ,rub off on #b lbs of lump sugar the rinds of six lemons1 squeeze the juice from the whole of the fruit over the #b lbs of sugar1 add three quarts of boiling water1 one of boiling milk1 half a teaspoonful of nutmeg1 and mix all thoroughly well together until the sugar is dissolved4 ,pour in the rum or brandy1 stir1 and strain till clear2 bottle closely4 ,there is more than one objection to this recipe4 7#a7 ,rum1 and not brandy 7by itself71 should be used for milk punch4 7#b7 ,there is an intolerable amount of water2 and 7#c7 the nutmeg had better remain in the spice-box4 #c4 ,cut off the thin yellow rind of four lemons and a ,seville orange1 taking care not to include even a fragment of the white rind1 and place in a basin4 ,pour in one pint of ,jamaica rum1 and let it stand1 covered over1 twelve hours4 ,then strain1 and mix with it one pint of lemon juice1 and two pints of cold water1 in which one pound of sugar-candy has been dissolved2 add the whites of two eggs1 beaten to a froth1 three pints more of rum1 one pint of madeira1 one pint of strong green tea1 and a large wine-glassful of maraschino4 ,mix thoroughly1 and pour over all one pint of boiling milk4 ,let the punch stand a little while1 then strain through a jelly-bag1 and either use at once1 or bottle off4 ,here let it be added1 lest the precept be forgotten1 that the ,very best ,materials are absolutely necessary for the manufacture of punch1 as of other compound drinks4 ,in the above recipe for instance by madeira1 is meant ,rare ,old ,east ,indian1 and not marsala1 which wine1 in ,french kitchens1 is invariably used as the equivalent of madeira4 ,there must be no inferior sherry1 ,gladstone claret1 cheap champagne1 nor potato-brandy1 used for any of my recipes1 or ,i will not be responsible for the flavour of the beverage4 ,the following is the best idea of a milk punch known to the writer3-- #d4 ,over the yellow rind of four lemons and one ,seville orange1 pour one pint of rum4 ,let it stand1 covered over1 for twelve hours4 ,strain and mix in two pints more of rum1 one pint of brandy1 one pint of sherry1 half-a-pint of lemon juice1 the expressed juice of a peeled pine-apple1 one pint of green tea1 one pound of sugar dissolved in one quart of boiling water1 the whites of two eggs beaten up1 one quart of boiling milk4 ,mix well1 let it cool1 and then strain through a jelly-bag1 and bottle off4 ,this punch is calculated to make the epicure forget that he has just been partaking of conger-eel broth instead of clear turtle4 ,cambridge ,milk ,punch4 ,this a fairly good boys' beverage1 there being absolutely no offence in't4 ,put the rind of half a lemon 7small7 into one pint of new milk1 with twelve lumps of sugar4 ,boil very slowly for fifteen minutes1 then remove from the fire1 take out the lemon rind1 and mix in the yolk of one egg1 which has been previously blended with one tablespoonful of cold milk1 two tablespoonfuls of brandy1 and four of rum4 ,whisk all together1 and when the mixture is frothed1 it is ready to serve4 ,oxford ,punch4 ,there is no milk in this mixture1 which sounds like for'ard on6 for the undergraduate who for the first time samples it4 ,rub off the yellow rind of three lemons with half-a-pound of loaf sugar4 ,put the result into a large jug1 with the yellow rind of one ,seville orange1 the juice of three ,seville oranges and eight lemons1 and one pint of liquefied calf's-foot jelly4 ,mix thoroughly1 then pour over two quarts of boiling water1 and set the jug on the hob for thirty minutes4 ,strain the mixture into a punch-bowl1 and when cool add one small bottle of capillaire 7an infusion of maidenhair fern1 flavoured with sugar and orange-flower water72 one pint of brandy1 one pint of rum1 half-a-pint of dry sherry1 and one quart of orange shrub--a mixture of orange-peel1 juice1 sugar1 and rum4 ,after drinking this1 the young student will be in a fit state to sally forth1 with his fellows1 and draw a ,dean1 or drown an amateur journalist4 ,i have a very old recipe1 in ,,ms41 for ,bischoff1 which ,i take to be the original of the better known beverage called ,bishop1 for the manufacture of which ,i have also directions4 ,for the sake of comparison ,i give the two4 ,bischoff4 ,cut into four parts each1 three ,seville oranges1 and slightly score the rinds across with a sharp knife4 ,roast the quarters lightly before a slow fire1 and put them into a bowl with two bottles of claret1 with a little cinnamon and nutmeg4 ,infuse this mixture over a slow heat for five or six hours1 then pass it through a jelly-bag1 and sweeten4 ,it may be drunk hot or cold1 but in any case must never be allowed to boil4 ,bishop4 ,two drachmas each of cloves1 mace1 ginger1 cinnamon1 and allspice1 boiled in half-a-pint of water for thirty minutes4 ,strain4 ,put a bottle of port in a saucepan over the fire1 add the spiced infusion1 and a lemon stuck with six cloves4 ,whilst this is heating gradually--it must not boil--take four ounces of loaf sugar1 and with the lumps grate off the outer rind of a lemon into a punch-bowl4 ,add the sugar1 and juice1 and the hot wine1 etc4 ,add another bottle of port1 and serve either hot or cold4 ,i am prepared to lay a shade of odds on the op against the off4 ,another old recipe has been quoted in some of my earlier public efforts1 under different names4 ,i have improved considerably upon the proportion of the ingredients1 and now hand the whole back1 under the name of ,halo ,punch4 ,with a quarter pound of loaf sugar rub off the outer rind of one lemon and two ,seville oranges4 ,put rind and sugar into a large punch-bowl with the juice and pulp1 mix the sugar well with the juice and one teacupful of boiling water1 and stir till cold4 ,add half-a-pint of pine-apple syrup1 one pint of strong green tea1 a claret-glassful of maraschino1 a smaller glassful of noyeau1 half-a-pint of white rum1 one pint of brandy1 and one bottle of champagne4 ,strain and serve1 having1 if necessary1 added more sugar4 ,note well the proportions4 ,this is the same beverage which some ,cleveland friends of mine1 having read the recipe1 thought boiling would improve4 ,the result was--well1 a considerable amount of chaos4 ,glasgow ,punch4 ,the following is from ,peter's ,letters to his ,kinsfolk1 and is from the pen of ,john ,gibson ,lockhart3-- ,the sugar being melted with a little cold water1 the artist squeezed about a dozen lemons through a wooden strainer1 and then poured in water enough almost to fill the bowl4 ,in this state the liquor goes by the name of sherbet1 and a few of the connoisseurs in his immediate neighbourhood were requested to give their opinion of it--for in the mixing of the sherbet lies1 according to the ,glasgow creed1 at least one-half of the whole battle4 ,this being approved of by an audible smack from the lips of the umpires1 the rum was added to the beverage1 ,i suppose1 in something about the proportion from one to seven4 ,does this mean one of sherbet and seven of rum1 or the converse8 ,last of all1 the maker cut a few limes1 and running each section rapidly round the rim of his bowl1 squeezed in enough of this more delicate acid to flavour the whole composition4 ,in this consists the true tour-de-maitre of the punch-maker4 ,well1 possibly2 but it seems a plainish sort of punch2 and unless the rum be allowed to preponderate1 most of us would be inclined to call the mixture lemonade4 ,and ,i do not believe that since ,glasgow has been a city its citizens ever drank much of that4 ,a few more punches1 and then an anecdote4 ,ale ,punch4 ,one quart of mild ale in a bowl1 add one wine-glassful of brown sherry1 the same quantity of old brandy1 a tablespoonful of sifted sugar1 the peel and juice of one lemon1 a grate of nutmeg1 and an iceberg4 ,n4,b4--,do not insert old ale1 by mistake4 ,and for my own part1 ,i think it a mistake to mix ,john ,barleycorn with wine 7except champagne7 and spirits4 ,barbadoes ,punch4 ,a tablespoonful of raspberry syrup1 a ditto of sifted sugar1 a wine-glassful of water1 double that quantity of brandy1 half a wine-glassful of guava jelly1 liquid1 the juice of half a lemon1 two slices of orange1 one slice of pine-apple1 in a long tumbler4 ,ice and shake well and drink through straws4 ,curaoa ,punch4 ,put into a large tumbler one tablespoonful of sifted sugar1 one wine-glassful of brandy1 the same quantity of water1 half a wine-glassful of ,jamaica rum1 a wine-glassful of curaoa1 and the juice of half a lemon2 fill the tumbler with crushed ice1 shake1 and drink through straws4 ,grassot ,punch4 ,this has nothing to do with warm asparagus1 so have no fear4 ,it is simply another big-tumbler mixture1 of one wine-glassful of brandy1 a liqueur-glassful of curaoa1 a squeeze of lemon1 two teaspoonfuls sugar1 one of syrup of strawberries1 one wine-glassful of water1 and the thin rind of a lemon2 fill up the tumbler with crushed ice1 shake1 and put slices of ripe apricots atop4 ,drink how you like4 ,most of the above are hot-weather beverages1 and the great beauty of some of them will be found in the small quantity of water in the mixture4 ,here is a punch which may be drunk in any weather1 and either hot or cold4 ,regent ,punch4 ,pour into a bowl a wine-glassful of champagne1 the same quantities of hock1 curaoa1 rum1 and madeira4 ,mix well1 and add a pint of boiling tea1 sweetened4 ,stir well and serve4 ,apropos of the derivation of punch1 ,i was unaware until quite recently that ,messrs4 ,bradbury's ,agnew's little paper had any connection therewith4 ,but ,i was assured by one who knew all about it1 that such was the case4 ,what8 ,i exclaimed4 ,how can the ,london ,charivari possibly have anything to do with this most seductive of beverages8 ,my dear fellow1 was the reply1 have you never heard of ,mark ,lemon8 ,i turned to smite him hip and thigh2 but the jester had fled4 ,and now a word or two as to ,,toddy4 ,one of the authorities quoted in the punch difficulty declares that toddy is also an ,indian drink4 ,so it is4 ,but that drink no more resembles what is known in more civilised lands as toddy than ,i resemble the late king ,solomon4 ,the palm-sap which the poor ,indian distils into arrack and occasionally drinks in its natural state for breakfast after risking his neck in climbing trees to get it1 can surely have no connection with hot whisky and water8 ,yet the authority says so2 but he had best be careful ere he promulgates his theory in the presence of ,scotsmen and others who possess special toddy-glasses4 ,this is how ,i make ,whisky ,toddy4 ,the ,irish call this whisky punch4 ,but do not let us wrangle over the name4 ,into an ordinary-sized tumbler which has been warmed1 put one average lump of sugar1 a ring of thin lemon peel1 and a silver teaspoon4 ,fill the tumbler one quarter full of water as near boiling point as possible4 ,cover over until the sugar be dissolved and peel be infused4 ,then add one wine-glassful--not a small one--of the best whisky you can find--the ,pollok brand1 and the ,r4,b4 are both excellent4 ,then drink the toddy1 or punch2 for should you attempt to add any more water you will incur the lifelong contempt of every ,irishman or ,scotsman who may be in the same room4 ,if ,irish whisky be used1 of course you will select ,john ,jameson4 ',twixt ale-flip and egg-flip there is not much more difference than 'twixt tweedledum and tweedledee4 ,both are equally more-ish on a cold evening2 and no ,christmas eve is complete without a jug of one or the other4 ,ale-flip4 ,pour into a saucepan three pints of mild ale1 one tablespoonful of sifted sugar1 a blade of mace1 a clove1 and a small piece of butter2 and bring the liquor to a boil4 ,beat up in a basin the white of one egg and the yolks of two1 mixed with about a wine-glassful of cold ale4 ,mix all together in the saucepan1 then pour into a jug1 and thence into another jug1 from a height1 for some minutes1 to froth the flip thoroughly but do not let it get cold4 ,egg-flip4 ,heat one pint of ale1 and pour into a jug4 ,add two eggs1 beaten with three ounces of sugar1 and pour the mixture from one jug to the other1 as in the preceding recipe4 ,grate a little nutmeg and ginger over the flip before serving4 ,were ,i to ask ,what is ,a ,peg8 ,i should probably be told that a peg was something to hang something or somebody else on1 or that it was something to be driven through or into something else4 ,and the latter would be the more correct answer1 for at the time of my sojourn in the great continent of ,india1 a peg meant a large brandy-and-soda4 ,at that time whisky was but little known in ,punkahland1 and was only used high up in the ,punjaub during the cold weather--and it is cold occasionally in that region1 where for some months they are enabled to make ice--but that is une autre histoire4 ,rum ,i once tasted at ,simla1 and gin will be dealt with presently4 ,but since the visit of ,h4,r4,h4 the ,prince of ,wales1 a peg has always signified a whisky-and-soda4 ,and yet we have not heard of any particular decrease in the death-rate4 ,despite what those who have only stayed a month or two in the country have committed to print1 alcohol is not more fatal in a tropical country than a temperate one4 ,but you must not overdo your alcohol4 ,i have seen a gay young spark1 a fine soldier1 and over six feet in height1 drink eight pegs of a morning1 ere he got out of bed4 ,there was no such thing as a split soda--or a split brandy either--in those days4 ,we buried him in the ,bay of ,bengal just after a cyclone1 on our way home4 ,by the way1 the real meaning of peg was said to be the peg1 or nail1 driven into the coffin of the drinker every time he partook4 ,and the coffin of many an ,anglo-,indian of my acquaintance was all nails4 ,a ,john ,collins is simply a gin-sling with a little curaoa in it4 ,that is to say1 soda-water1 a slice of lemon1 curaoa--and gin4 ,but by altering the proportions this can be made a very dangerous potion indeed4 ,the officers of a certain regiment--which shall be nameless--were in the habit of putting this potion on tap1 after dinner on a guest night4 ,it was a point of honour in those evil1 though poetical1 times1 to send no guest empty away1 and more than one of those entertained by this regiment used to complain next morning at breakfast--a peg1 or a swizzle1 and a hot pickle sandwich--of the escape of ,private ,john ,collins from the regimental guard-room4 ,for towards dawn there would not be much soda-water in that potion--which was usually served hot at that hour4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,,cups ,,and ,,cordials ,can any mortal mixture ,breathe such divine1 enchanting ravishment8 ,the evil that men do lives after them4 ,five recipes for claret cup--,balaclava cup--,orgeat--,ascot cup--,stout and champagne--,shandy-gaff for millionaires--,ale cup--,cobblers which will stick to the last--,home ,ruler--,cherry brandy--,sloe gin--,home-made1 if possible--,a new industry--,apricot brandy--,highland cordial--,bitters--,jumping-powder--,ora nge brandy--,mandragora--,sleep rock thy brain6 ,i suppose there are almost as many recipes for claret cup as for a cold in the head4 ,and of the many it is probable that the greater proportion will produce a cup which will neither cheer nor inebriate2 for the simple reason that nobody1 who was not inebriated already1 would be physically capable of drinking enough of it4 ,let us first of all take the late ,mr4 ,donald's recipe for ,claret ,cup3 ,a4 #a bottle claret4 #a wine-glassful fine pale brandy4 do4 chartreuse yellow4 do4 curaoa4 do4 maraschino4 #b bottles soda or seltzer4#aj #a lemon1 cut in thin slices4 ,a few sprigs of borage2 not much4 ,ice and sugar to taste4 ,here is a less expensive recipe3 ,b4 ,put into a bowl the rind of one lemon pared very thin1 add some sifted sugar1 and pour over it a wine-glassful of sherry2 then add a bottle of claret1 more sugar to taste1 a sprig of verbena1 one bottle of aerated water1 and a grated nutmeg2 strain and ice it well4 ,once more let the fact be emphasised that the better the wine1 spirit1 etc41 the better the cup4 ,here is a good cup for ,ascot1 when the sun is shining1 and you are entertaining the fair sex4 ,c4 ,put in a large bowl three bottles of claret 7,st4 ,estephe is the stamp of wine71 a wine-glassful 7large7 of curaoa1 a pint of dry sherry1 half a pint of old brandy1 a large wine-glassful of raspberry syrup1 three oranges and one lemon cut into slices2 add a few sprigs of borage and a little cucumber rind1 two bottles of seltzer water1 and three bottles of ,stretton water4 ,mix well1 and sweeten4 ,let it stand for an hour1 and then strain4 ,put in a large block of ice1 and a few whole strawberries4 ,serve in small tumblers4 ,another way and a simpler3 ,d4 ,pour into a large jug one bottle of claret1 add two wine-glassfuls of sherry1 and half a glass of maraschino4 ,add a few sliced nectarines1 or peaches1 and sugar to taste 7about a tablespoonful and a half74 ,let it stand till the sugar is dissolved1 then put in a sprig of borage4 ,just before using add one bottle of ,stretton water1 and a large piece of ice4 ,my ideal claret cup3 ,e4 #b bottles ,pontet ,canet4 #b wine-glassfuls old brandy4 #a wine-glassful curaoa4 #a pint bottle sparkling moselle4 #b bottles aerated water4 ,a sprig or two of borage1 and a little lemon peel4 ,sugar ad lib43 one cup will not require much4 ,add the moselle and popwater just before using2 then put in a large block of ice4 ,those who have never tried can have no idea of the zest which a small proportion of moselle lends to a claret cup4 ,my earliest recollection of a cup dates from old cricketing days beneath ,henry's holy shade1 on a match day--as poor old ,spanky used to phrase it2 a day on which that prince of philosophers and confectioners sold his wares for cash only4 ,not that he had anything to do with the compounding of the ,cider ,cup4 ,toast a slice of bread and put it at the bottom of a large jug4 ,grate over the toast nearly half a small nutmeg1 and a very little ginger4 ,add a little thin lemon rind1 and six lumps of sugar4 ,then add two wine-glasses of sherry1 and 7if for adults7 one of brandy4 7,if for boys the brandy in the sherry will suffice47 ,add also the juice of a small lemon1 two bottles of lively water1 and 7last of all7 three pints of cider4 ,mix well1 pop in a few sprigs of borage1 and a block or two of ice4 ,remember once more that the purer the cider the better will be the cup4 ,there is an infinity of bad cider in the market4 ,there used to be a prejudice against the fermented juice of the apple for all who have gouty tendencies2 but as a toe-martyr myself1 ,i can bear testimony to the harmlessness of the natural ,norfolk cider made at ,attleborough1 in the which is no touch of ,podagra4 ,for a good ,champagne ,cup vide ,claret ,cup ,a4 ,substituting the sparkling for the ruby1 the ingredients are precisely the same4 ,a nice1 harmless beverage1 suitable for a tennis party1 or to accompany the light refreshments served at a ,cinderella dance1 or at the breaking-up party at a ladies' school1 is ,chablis ,cup4 ,dissolve four or five lumps of sugar in a quarter of a pint of boiling water1 and put it into a bowl with a very thin slice of lemon rind2 let it stand for half-an-hour1 then add a bottle of chablis1 a sprig of verbena1 a wine-glassful of sherry1 and half-a-pint of water4 ,mix well1 and let the mixture stand for a while1 then strain1 add a bottle of seltzer water1 a few strawberries or raspberries1 and a block of ice4 ,serve in small glasses4 ,balaclava ,cup4 ,claret to right of 'em1 ',simpkin' to left of 'em-- ,cup worth a hundred6 ,get a large bowl1 to represent the ,valley--which only the more rabid abstainer would call the ,valley of ,death4 ,you will next require a small detachment of thin lemon rind1 about two tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar1 the juice of two lemons1 and half a cucumber1 cut into thin slices1 with the peel on4 ,let all these ingredients skirmish about within the bowl2 then bring up your heavy cavalry in the shape of two bottles of ,chteau something1 and one of the best champagne you have got4 ,last of all1 unmask your soda-water battery2 two bottles will be sufficient4 ,ice1 and serve in tumblers4 ,crimean ,cup4 ,this is a very serious affair4 ,so was the war4 ,the cup1 however1 leads to more favourable results1 and does not1 like the campaign1 leave a bitter taste in the mouth4 ,here are the ingredients3 ,one quart of syrup of orgeat 7to make this vide next recipe71 one pint and a half of old brandy1 half a pint of maraschino1 one pint of old rum1 two large and one small bottles of champagne1 three bottles of ,seltzer-water1 half-a-pound of sifted sugar1 and the juice of five lemons4 ,peel the lemons1 and put the thin rind in a mortar1 with the sugar4 ,pound them well1 and scrape the result with a silver spoon into a large bowl4 ,squeeze in the juice of the lemons1 add the seltzer water1 and stir till the sugar is quite dissolved4 ,then add the orgeat1 and whip the mixture well with a whisk1 so as to whiten it4 ,add the maraschino1 rum1 and brandy1 and strain the whole into another bowl4 ,just before the cup is required1 put in the champagne1 and stir vigorously with a punch ladle4 ,the champagne should be well iced1 as no apparent ice is allowable in this mixture4 ,orgeat4 ,blanch and pound three-quarters of a pound of sweet almonds1 and thirty bitter almonds1 in one tablespoonful of water4 ,stir in by degrees two pints of water and three pints of milk4 ,strain the mixture through a cloth4 ,dissolve half-a-pound of loaf sugar in one pint of water4 ,boil and skim well1 and then mix with the almond water4 ,add two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water1 and half-a-pint of old brandy4 ,be careful to boil the ea sucr well1 as this concoction must not be too watery4 ,ascot ,cup4 ,odds can be laid freely on this2 and the host should stay away from the temptations of the betting-ring1 on purpose to make it4 ,and--parenthetically be it observed--the man who has no soul for cup-making should never entertain at a race meeting4 ,the servants will have other things to attend to2 and even if they have not it should be remembered that a cup1 or punch1 like a salad1 should always1 if possible1 be mixed by some one who is going to partake of the same4 ,dissolve six ounces of sugar in half-a-pint of boiling water2 add the juice of three lemons1 one pint of old brandy1 a wine-glassful of cherry brandy1 a wine-glassful of maraschino1 half a wine-glassful of yellow chartreuse1 two bottles of champagne4 ,all these should be mixed in a large silver bowl4 ,add a few sprigs of borage1 a few slices of lemon1 half-a-dozen strawberries1 half-a-dozen brandied cherries1 and three bottles of seltzer water4 ,put the bowl1 having first covered it over1 into the refrigerator for one hour1 and before serving1 put a small iceberg into the mixture1 which should be served in little tumblers4 ,how many people1 ,i wonder1 are aware that ,champagne and ,guinness' ,stout make one of the best combinations possible8 ,you may search the wide wide world for a cookery book which will give this information2 but the mixture is both grateful and strengthening1 and is1 moreover1 far to be preferred to what is known as ,rich ,man's ,shandy ,gaff1 which is a mixture of champagne and ale4 ,the old ,irishman said that the blackgyard should never be placed atop of the gintleman1 intending to convey the advice that ale should not be placed on the top of champagne4 ,but the black draught indicated just above is well worth attention4 ,it should be drunk out of a pewter tankard1 and is specially recommended as a between-the-acts refresher for the amateur actor4 ,ale ,cup4 ,squeeze the juice of a lemon into a round of hot toast2 lay on it a thin piece of the rind1 a tablespoonful of pounded sugar1 a little grated nutmeg1 and a sprig of balm4 ,pour over these one glass of brandy1 two glasses of sherry1 and three pints of mild ale4 ,do not allow the balm to remain in the mixture many minutes4 ,one of the daintiest of beverages is a ,moselle ,cup4 ,ingredients3 ,one bottle of moselle4 ,one glass of brandy4 ,four or five thin slices of pine-apple4 ,the peel of half a lemon1 cut very thin4 ,ice2 and sugar ad lib4 ,just before using add one bottle of sparkling water4 ,sherry ,cobbler although a popular drink in ,america1 is but little known on this side of the ,atlantic4 ,place in a soda-water tumbler two wine-glassfuls of sherry1 one tablespoonful of sifted sugar1 and two or three slices of orange4 ,fill the tumbler with crushed ice1 and shake well4 ,drink through straws4 ,champagne ,cobbler4 ,put into a large tumbler one tablespoonful of sifted sugar1 with a thin paring of lemon and orange peel2 fill the tumbler one-third full of crushed ice1 and the remainder with champagne4 ,shake1 and ornament with a slice of lemon1 and a strawberry or two4 ,drink through straws4 ,home ,ruler4 ,this was a favourite drink at the bars of the ,house of ,commons1 during the reign of the ,uncrowned ,king4 ,it was concocted of the yolks of two raw eggs1 well beaten1 a little sugar added1 then a tumbler of hot milk taken gradually into the mixture1 and last of all a large wine-glassful of ,j4,j4 whisky4 ,cordials4 ,in treating of cordials1 it is most advisable that they be home made4 ,the bulk of the cherry brandy1 ginger brandy1 etc41 which is sold over the counter is made with inferior brandy2 and frequently the operation of blending the virtue of the fruit with the spirit has been hurried4 ,we will commence with the discussion of the favourite cordial of all1 ,cherry ,brandy4 ,this can either be made from ,black ,gean cherries1 or ,morellas1 but the latter are better for the purpose4 ,every pound of cherries will require one quarter of a pound of white sugar1 and one pint of the best brandy4 ,the cherries1 with the sugar well mixed with them1 should be placed in wide-mouthed bottles1 filled up with brandy2 and if the fruit be previously pricked1 the mixture will be ready in a month4 ,but a better blend is procured if the cherries are untouched1 and this principle holds good with all fruit treated in this way1 and left corked for at least three months4 ,sloe ,gin4 ,for years the sloe1 which is the fruit of the black-thorn1 was used in ,england for no other purpose than the manufacture of ,british ,port4 ,but at this end of the nineteenth century1 the public have been1 and are1 taking kindly to the cordial1 which for a long time had been despised as an auld wife's drink4 ,as a matter of fact1 it is just as tasty1 and almost as luscious as cherry brandy4 ,but since sloe gin became fashionable1 it has become almost impossible for dwellers within twenty or thirty miles of ,london to make the cordial at home4 ,for sloes fetch something like sixpence or sevenpence a pound in the market2 and in consequence the hedgerows are raided by the 7otherwise7 unemployed1 the fruit being usually picked before the proper time1 i4e4 when the frost has been on it4 ,the manufacture of sloe gin is as simple as that of cherry brandy4 ,all that is necessary to be done is to allow #a lb4 of sugar 7white7 to #a lb4 of sloes4 ,half fill a bottle--which need not necessarily be a wide-mouthed one--with sugared fruit1 and top up with gin4 ,if the sloes have been pricked1 the liquor will be ready for use in two or three months2 but do not hurry it4 ,in a year's time the gin will have eaten all the goodness out of the unpricked fruit1 and it is in this gradual blending that the secret 7as before observed7 of making these cordials lies4 ,as a rule1 if you call for sloe gin at a licensed house of entertainment1 you will get a ruby-coloured liquid1 tasting principally of gin--and not good gin at that4 ,this is because the making has been hurried4 ,properly matured sloe gin should be the colour of full-bodied port wine4 ,apricot ,brandy4 ,this is a cordial which is but seldom met with in this country4 ,to every pound of fruit 7which should not be quite ripe7 allow one pound of loaf sugar4 ,put the apricots into a preserving-pan1 with sufficient water to cover them4 ,let them boil up1 and then simmer gently until tender4 ,remove the skins4 ,clarify and boil the sugar1 then pour it over the fruit4 ,let it remain twenty-four hours4 ,then put the apricots into wide-mouthed bottles1 and fill them up with syrup and brandy1 half and half4 ,cork them tightly1 with the tops of corks sealed4 ,this apricot brandy should be prepared in the month of ,july1 and kept twelve months before using4 ,highland ,cordial4 ,here is another rare old recipe4 ,ingredients1 one pint of white currants1 stripped of their stalks1 the thin rind of a lemon1 one teaspoonful of essence of ginger1 and one bottle of old ,scotch whisky4 ,let the mixture stand for forty-eight hours1 and then strain through a hair sieve4 ,add one pound of loaf sugar1 which will take at least a day to thoroughly dissolve4 ,then bottle off1 and cork well4 ,it will be ready for use in three months1 but will keep longer4 ,bitters4 ,one ounce of ,seville orange-peel1 half an ounce of gentian root1 a quarter of an ounce of cardamoms4 ,husk the cardamoms1 and crush them with the gentian root4 ,put them in a wide-mouthed bottle1 and cover with brandy or whisky4 ,let the mixture remain for twelve days1 then strain1 and bottle off for use1 after adding one ounce of lavender drops4 ,ginger ,brandy4 ,bruise slightly two pounds of black currants1 and mix them with one ounce and a half of ground ginger4 ,pour over them one bottle and a half of best brandy1 and let the mixture stand for two days4 ,strain off the liquid1 and add one pound of loaf sugar which has been boiled to a syrup in a little water4 ,bottle and cork closely4 ,jumping ,powder comes in very handy1 on a raw morning1 after you have ridden a dozen miles or so to a lawn meet4 ,no breakfast1 thanks1 just a wee nip1 that's all4 ,and the ever ready butler hands round the tray4 ,if you are wise1 you will declare on ,orange ,brandy which1 as a rule1 is well worth sampling1 in a house important enough to entertain hunting men4 ,and orange brandy goes much better than any other liqueur1 or cordial1 before noon4 ,it should be made in the month of ,march4 ,take the thin rinds of six ,seville oranges1 and put them into a stone jar1 with half-a-pint of the strained juice1 and two quarts of good old brandy4 ,let it remain three days1 then add one pound and a quarter of loaf sugar--broken1 not pounded--and stir till the sugar is dissolved4 ,let the liquor stand a day1 strain it through paper till quite clear1 pour into bottles1 and cork tightly4 ,the longer it is kept the better4 ,mandragora4 ,can't sleep4 ,eh8 ,what6 not after a dry chapter on liquids8 ,drink this1 and you will not require any rocking4 ,simmer half-a-pint of old ale1 and just as it is about to boil pour it into a tumbler1 grate a little nutmeg over it1 and add a teaspoonful of moist sugar1 and two tablespoonfuls of brandy4 ,good night1 ,hamlet6 ,,chapter ,,xx ,,the ,,daylight ,,drink ,something too much of this4 ,a nipping and an eager air4 ,evil effects of dram-drinking--,the ,gin-crawl--,abstinence in ,h4,m4 service--,city manners and customs--,useless to argue with the soaker--,cocktails--,pet names for drams--,the free lunch system--,fancy mixtures--,why no ,cassis8--,good advice like water on a duck's back4 ,whilst holding the same opinion as the epicure who declared that good eating required good drinking1 there is no question but that there should be a limit to both4 ,there is1 as ,shakespeare told us1 a tide in the affairs of man1 so why should there not be in this particular affair8 ,why should it be only ebb tide during the few hours that the man is wrapped in the arms of a ,bacchanalian ,morpheus1 either in bed or in custody8 ,the abuse of good liquor is surely as criminal a folly as the abstention therefrom2 and the man who mixes his liquors injudiciously lacks that refinement of taste and understanding which is necessary for the appreciation of a good deal of this book1 or indeed of any other useful volume4 ,our grandfathers swore terribly1 and drank deep2 but their fun did not commence until after dinner4 ,and they drank1 for the most part1 the best of ale1 and such port wine as is not to be had in these days of free trade 7which is only an euphemism for adulteration7 and motor cars4 ,although mine own teeth are1 periodically1 set on edge by the juice of the grape consumed by an ancestor or two2 although the gout within me is an heritage from the three-1 aye6 and four-1 bottle era1 ,i respect mine ancestors1 in that they knew not gin and bitters4 ,the baleful habit of alcoholising the inner sinner between meal times1 the pernicious habit of dram-drinking1 or nipping1 from early morn till dewy eve1 was not introduced into our cities until the latter half of the nineteenth century had set in4 ,brandy-and-soda1 at first only used as a livener--and a deadly livener it is--was unknown during the early ,victorian era2 and the gin-crawl1 that interminable slouch around the hostelries1 is a rank growth of modernity4 ,the nipping habit came to us1 with other pernicious notions1 from across the ,atlantic ,ocean4 ,it was ,brother ,jonathan who established the bar system2 and although for the most part1 throughout ,great ,britain1 the alcohol is dispensed by young ladies with fine eyes and a great deal of adventitious hair1 and the bar-keep1 with his big watch chain1 and his guns1 placed within easy reach1 for quick-shooting saloon practice1 is unknown on this side1 the hurt of the system 7to employ an ,americanism7 gets there just the same4 ,there is not the same amount of carousing in the ,british army as in the days when ,i was a gilded popinjay 7in the language of ,mr4 ,john ,burns2 a five-and-twopenny assassin1 in the words of somebody else74 ,in those days the use of alcohol1 if not absolutely encouraged for the use of the subaltern1 was winked at by his superiors1 as long as the subalterns were not on duty1 or on the line of march--and ,i don't know so much about the line of march1 either4 ,but with any orderly or responsible duty to be done1 the beverage of heroes was not admired4 ,now mind1 once observed our revered colonel1 in the ante-room1 after dinner1 none of you young officers get seeing snakes and things1 or otherwise rendering yourselves unfit for service2 or ,i'll try the lot of you by court martial1 ,i will1 by ----4 ,here the adjutant let the regimental bible drop with a bang4 ,tea is the favourite ante-room refreshment nowadays1 when the officer1 young or old1 is always either on duty1 or at school4 ,and the education of the modern warrior is never completed4 ,but the civilian--sing ho6 the wicked civilian--is a reveller1 and a winebibber1 for the most part4 ,very little business is transacted except over what is called a friendly glass4 ,i want seven hundred an' forty-five from you1 old chappie1 says ,reggie de ,beers of the ,house1 on settling day4 ,right1 replies his friend young ,berthas3 toss you double or quits4 ,down with it6 ,and it would be a cold day were not a magnum or two of the ,boy to be opened over the transaction4 ,the cheap eating-house keeper who has spent his morning at the market1 cheapening a couple of pigs1 or a dozen scraggy fowls1 will have spent double the money he has saved in the bargain1 in rum and six-penny ale1 ere he gets home again2 and even a wholesale deal in evening journals1 between two youths in the street1 requires to be wetted4 ,very sad is it not8 ,but1 as anything which ,i--who am popularly supposed to be something resembling a roysterer1 but who am in reality one of the most discreet of those who enjoy life--can write is not likely to work a change in the system which obtains amongst ,english-speaking nations1 perhaps the sooner ,i get on with the programme the better4 ,later on ,i may revert to the subject4 ,amongst daylight 7and midnight1 for the matter of that7 drinks1 the ,,cocktail1 that fascinating importation from ,dollarland1 holds a prominent place4 ,this is a concoction for which1 with ,american bars all over the ,metropolis1 the cockney does not really require any recipe4 ,but as ,i trust to have some country readers1 a few directions may be appended4 ,brandy ,cocktail4 ,one wine-glassful of old brandy1 six drops of ,angostura bitters1 and twenty drops of curaoa1 in a small tumbler--all cocktails should be made in a small silver tumbler--shake1 and pour into glass tumbler1 then fill up with crushed ice4 ,put a shred of lemon peel atop4 ,champagne ,cocktail4 ,one teaspoonful of sifted sugar1 ten drops of ,angostura bitters1 a small slice of pine-apple1 and a shred of lemon peel4 ,strain into glass tumbler1 add crushed ice1 and as much champagne as the tumbler will hold4 ,mix with a spoon4 ,bengal ,cocktail4 ,fill tumbler half full of crushed ice4 ,add thirty drops of maraschino1 one tablespoonful of pine-apple syrup1 thirty drops of curaoa1 six drops of ,angostura bitters1 one wine-glassful of old brandy4 ,stir1 and put a shred of lemon peel atop4 ,milford ,cocktail4 7,dedicated to ,mr4 ,jersey47 ,put into a half-pint tumbler a couple of lumps of best ice1 one teaspoonful of sifted sugar1 one teaspoonful of orange bitters1 half a wine-glassful of brandy4 ,top up with bottled cider1 and mix with a spoon4 ,serve with a strawberry1 and a sprig of verbena atop4 ,manhattan ,cocktail4 ,half a wine-glassful of vermouth 7,italian71 half a wine-glassful of rye whisky 7according to the ,american recipe1 though1 personally1 ,i prefer ,scotch71 ten drops of ,angostura bitters1 and six drops of curaoa4 ,add ice1 shake well1 and strain4 ,put a shred of lemon peel atop4 ,yum ,yum ,cocktail4 ,break the yolk of a new-laid egg into a small tumbler1 and put a teaspoonful of sugar on it4 ,then six drops of ,angostura bitters1 a wine-glassful of sherry1 and half a wine-glassful of brandy4 ,shake all well together1 and strain4 ,dust a very little cinnamon over the top4 ,gin ,cocktail4 ,ten drops of ,angostura bitters1 one wine-glassful of gin1 ten drops of curaoa1 one shred of lemon peel4 ,fill up with ice1 shake1 and strain4 ,newport ,cocktail4 ,put two lumps of ice and a small slice of lemon into the tumbler1 add six drops of ,angostura bitters1 half a wine-glassful of noyau1 and a wine-glassful of brandy4 ,stir well1 and serve with peel atop4 ,saratoga ,cocktail4 ,this is a more important affair1 and requires a large tumbler for the initial stage4 ,one teaspoonful of pine-apple syrup1 ten drops of ,angostura bitters1 one teaspoonful of maraschino1 and a wine-glassful of old brandy4 ,nearly fill the tumbler with crushed ice1 and shake well4 ,then place a couple of strawberries in a small tumbler1 strain the liquid on them1 put in a strip of lemon peel1 and top up with champagne4 ,whisky ,cocktail4 ,put into a small tumbler ten drops of ,angostura bitters1 and one wine-glassful of ,scotch whisky4 ,fill the tumbler with crushed ice1 shake well1 strain into a large wine-glass1 and place a strip of peel atop4 ,but the ordinary ,british bar-cuddler--as he is called in the slang of the day--recks not of cocktails1 nor1 indeed1 of ,columbian combinations of any sort4 ,he has his own particular vanity1 and frequently a pet name for it4 ,gin-and-angry-story 7,angostura71 slow-and-old 7sloe-gin and ,old ,tom71 pony o' ,burton1 please miss1 are a few of the demands the attentive listener may hear given4 ,orange-gin1 gin-and-orange-gin1 gin-and-sherry 7,o bile where is thy sting871 are favourite midday refreshers2 and ,i have heard a well-known barrister call for a split ,worcester 7a small wine-glassful of ,worcester sauce with a split soda71 without a smile on his expressive countenance4 ,small lem4 and a dash is a favourite summer beverage1 and1 withal1 a harmless one1 consisting of a small bottle of lemonade with about an eighth of a pint of bitter ale added thereto4 ,in one old-fashioned hostelry ,i wot of--the same in which the chair of the late ,doctor ,samuel ,johnson is on view--customers who require to be stimulated with gin call for rack1 and ,irish whisky is known by none other name than ,cork4 ,the habitual bar-cuddler usually rubs his hands violently together1 as he requests a little attention from the presiding ,hebe2 and affects a sort of shocked surprise at the presence on the scene of any one of his friends or acquaintances4 ,he is well-up1 too1 in the slang phraseology of the day1 which he will ride to death on every available opportunity4 ,full well do ,i remember him in the ,how's your poor feet8 era2 and it seems but yesterday that he was informing the company in assertive tones1 ,now we shan't be long6 ,the free lunch idea of the ,yankees is only thoroughly carried out in the ,north ,countree1 where1 at the best hotels1 there is often a great bowl of soup1 or a dish of jugged hare1 or of ,irish stew1 pro bono publico2 and by publico is implied the hotel directorate as well as the customers4 ,in ,london1 however1 the free lunch seldom soars above salted almonds1 coffee beans1 cloves1 with biscuits and ,american cheese4 ,but at most refreshment-houses is to be obtained for cash some sort of a restorative sandwich1 or bonne bouche1 in the which anchovies and hard-boiled eggs play leading parts2 and amongst other restorative food1 ,i have noticed that parallelograms of cold ,welsh rarebit are exceedingly popular amongst wine-travellers and advertisement-agents4 ,the genius who propounded the statement that there is nothing like leather could surely never have sampled a cold ,welsh rarebit6 ,bosom ,caresser4 ,put into a small tumbler one wine-glassful of sherry1 half a wine-glassful of old brandy1 the yolk of an egg1 two teaspoonfuls of sugar1 and two grains of cayenne pepper2 add crushed ice1 shake well1 strain1 and dust over with nutmeg and cinnamon4 ,a ,nicobine1 7or ,knickerbein as ,i have seen it spelt71 used to be a favourite short drink in ,malta1 and consisted of the yolk of an egg 7intact7 in a wine-glass with layers of curaoa1 maraschino1 and green chartreuse2 the liquors not allowed to mix with one another4 ,the knickerbein recipe differs materially from this1 as brandy is substituted for chartreuse1 and the ingredients are shaken up and strained1 the white of the egg being whisked and placed atop4 ,but1 either way1 you will get a good1 bile-provoking mixture4 ,in the ,west ,indies1 if you thirst for a rum and milk1 cocoa-nut milk is the only wear2 and a very delicious potion it is4 ,a favourite mixture in ,jamaica was the juice of a star apple1 the juice of an orange1 a wine-glassful of sherry1 and a dust of nutmeg4 ,i never heard a name given to this4 ,bull's ,milk4 ,this is a comforting drink for summer or winter4 ,during the latter season1 instead of adding ice1 the mixture may be heated4 ,one teaspoonful of sugar in a large tumbler1 half-a-pint of milk1 half a wine-glassful of rum1 a wine-glassful of brandy2 add ice1 shake well1 strain1 and powder with cinnamon and nutmeg4 ,fairy ,kiss4 ,put into a small tumbler the juice of a quarter of lemon1 a quarter of a wine-glassful each of the following3--,vanilla syrup1 curaoa1 yellow chartreuse1 brandy4 ,add ice1 shake1 and strain4 ,flash of ,lightning4 ,one-third of a wine-glassful each of the following1 in a small tumbler3--,raspberry syrup1 curaoa1 brandy1 and three drops of ,angostura bitters4 ,add ice1 shake and strain4 ,flip ,flap4 ,one wine-glassful of milk in a small tumbler1 one well-beaten egg1 a little sugar1 and a wine-glassful of port4 ,ice1 shake1 strain1 and sprinkle with cinnamon and nutmeg4 ,maiden's ,blush4 ,half a wine-glassful of sherry in a small tumbler1 a quarter of a wine-glassful of strawberry syrup1 and a little lemon juice4 ,add ice1 and a little raspberry syrup4 ,shake1 and drink through straws4 ,athole ,brose is compounded1 according to a favourite author1 in the following manner3-- ,upon virgin honeycombs you pour1 according to their amount1 the oldest ,french brandy and the most indisputable ,scotch whisky in equal proportions4 ,you allow this goodly mixture to stand for days in a large pipkin in a cool place1 and it is then strained and ready for drinking4 ,epicures drop into the jug1 by way of imparting artistic finish1 a small fragment of the honeycomb itself4 ,this ,i deprecate4 ,tiger's ,milk4 ,small tumbler4 ,half a wine-glassful each of cider and ,irish whisky1 a wine-glassful of peach brandy4 ,beat up separately the white of an egg with a little sugar1 and add this4 ,fill up the tumbler with ice2 shake1 and strain4 ,add half a tumbler of milk1 and grate a little nutmeg atop4 ,wyndham4 ,large tumbler4 ,equal quantities 7a liqueur glass of each7 of maraschino1 curaoa1 brandy1 with a little orange peel1 and sugar4 ,add a glass of champagne1 and a small bottle of seltzer water4 ,ice1 and mix well together4 ,stir with a spoon4 ,happy ,eliza4 ,put into a skillet twelve fresh dried figs cut open1 four apples cut into slices without peeling1 and half a pound of loaf sugar1 broken small4 ,add two quarts of water1 boil for twenty minutes1 strain through a--where's the brandy8 ,stop6 ,i've turned over two leaves1 and got amongst the ,temperance ,drinks4 ,rein back6 ,mint ,julep4 ,this1 properly made1 is the most delicious of all ,american beverages4 ,it is mixed in a large tumbler1 in the which are placed1 first of all1 two and a half tablespoonfuls of water1 one tablespoonful of sugar 7crushed71 and two or three sprigs of mint1 which should be pressed1 with a spoon or crusher1 into the sugar and water to extract the flavour4 ,add two wine-glassfuls of old brandy--now we shan't be long--fill up with powdered ice1 shake well1 get the mint to the top of the tumbler1 stalks down1 and put a few strawberries and slices of orange atop4 ,shake in a little rum1 last of all1 and drink through straws4 ,possets4 7,an eighteenth-century recipe47 ,take three gills of sweet cream1 a grated rind of lemon1 and juice thereof1 three-quarters of a pint of sack or ,rhenish wine4 ,sweeten to your taste with loaf sugar1 then beat in a bowl with a whisk for one hour1 and fill your glasses and drink to the king4 ,we are tolerably loyal in this our time2 still it is problematical if there exist man or woman in ,merry ,england1 in our day who would whisk a mixture for sixty minutes by the clock1 even with the prospect of drinking to the reigning monarch4 ,brandy ,sour4 ,this is simplicity itself4 ,a teaspoonful of sifted sugar in a small tumbler1 a little lemon rind and juice1 one wine-glassful of brandy4 ,fill nearly up with crushed ice1 shake and strain4 ,,whisky ,,sour is merely ,scotch whisky treated in the same kind1 open-handed manner1 with the addition of a few drops of raspberry syrup4 ,blue ,blazer4 ,don't be frightened2 there is absolutely no danger4 ,put into a silver mug1 or jug1 previously heated1 two wine-glassfuls of overproof 7or proof7 ,scotch whisky1 and one wine-glassful of boiling water4 ,set the liquor on fire1 and pass the blazing liquor into another mug1 also well heated4 ,pass to and fro1 and serve in a tumbler1 with a lump of sugar and a little thin lemon peel4 ,be very particular not to drop any of the blazer on the cat1 or the hearth-rug1 or the youngest child4 ,this drink would1 ,i should think1 have satisfied the aspirations of ,mr4 ,daniel ,quilp4 ,one of the most wholesome of all refreshers1 is a simple liquor1 distilled from black-currants1 and known to our lively neighbours as ,cassis4 ,this syrup can be obtained in the humblest cabaret in ,france2 but we have to thank the eccentric and illogical ways of our ,customs ,department for its absence from most of our own wine lists4 ,the duty is so prohibitive--being half as much again as that levied on ,french brandy--that it would pay nobody but said ,customs ,department to import it into ,england2 and yet the amount of alcohol contained in cassis is infinitesimal4 ,strange to say nobody has ever started a cassis still on this side4 ,one would imagine that the process would be simplicity itself2 as the liquor is nothing but cold black-currant tea1 with a suspicion of alcohol in it4 ,sligo ,slop4 ,this is an ,irish delight4 ,the juice of ten lemons1 strained1 ten tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar1 one quart of ,john ,jameson's oldest and best whisky1 and two port wine-glassfuls of curaoa1 all mixed together4 ,let the mixture stand for a day or two1 and then bottle4 ,this should be drunk neat1 in liqueur-glasses1 and is said to be most effectual jumping-powder4 ,it certainly reads conducive to timber-topping4 ,take it altogether the daylight drink is a mistake4 ,it is simply ruin to appetite2 it is more expensive than those who indulge therein are aware of at the time4 ,it ruins the nerves1 sooner or later2 it is not conducive to business1 unless for those whose heads are especially hard2 and it spoils the palate for the good wine which is poured forth later on4 ,the precept cannot be too widely laid down1 too fully known3 ,do not drink between ,meals6 ,better1 far better the three-bottle-trick of our ancestors1 than the gin-crawl of to-day4 ,,chapter ,,xxi ,,gastronomy ,,in ,,fiction ,,and ,,drama ,let me not burst in ignorance4 ,a chiel's amang ye1 taking notes4 ,thomas ,carlyle--,thackeray--,harrison ,ainsworth--,sir ,walter ,scott--,miss ,braddon--,marie ,corelli--,f4 ,c4 ,philips--,blackmore--,charles ,dickens--,pickwick reeking with alcohol--,brandy and oysters--,little ,dorrit--,great ,expectations--,micawber as a punch-maker--,david ,copperfield--,practicable food on the stage--,johnny ,toole's story of ,tiny ,tim and the goose4 ,considering the number of books which have been published during the nineteenth century1 it is astonishing how few of them deal with eating and drinking4 ,we read of a banquet or two1 certainly1 in the works of the divine ,william1 but no particulars as to the cuisine are entered into4 ,cold ,banquo hardly sounds appetising4 ,thomas ,carlyle was a notorious dyspeptic1 so it is no cause for wonderment that he did not bequeath to posterity the recipes for a dainty dish or two1 or a good ,derby ,day ,cup4 ,thackeray understood but little about cookery1 nor was ,whyte ,melville much better versed in the mysteries of the kitchen4 ,harrison ,ainsworth touched lightly on gastronomy occasionally1 whilst ,charles ,lamb1 ,sydney ,smith1 and others 7blessings light on the man who invented the phrase and others7 delighted therein4 ,miss ,braddon has slurred it over hitherto1 and ,marie ,corelli scorns all mention of any refreshment but absinthe--a weird liquid which is altogether absent from these pages4 ,in the lighter novels of ,mr4 ,f4 ,c4 ,philips1 there is but little mention of solid food except devilled caviare1 which sounds nasty2 but most of ,mr4 ,philips's men1 and all his women1 drink to excess--principally champagne1 brandy1 and green chartreuse4 ,and one of his heroines is a firm believer in the merits of cognac as a settler of champagne4 ,according to ,mr4 ,r4 ,d4 ,blackmore1 the natives of ,exmoor did themselves particularly well1 in the seventeenth century4 ,in that most delightful romance ,lorna ,doone is a description of a meal set before ,tom ,faggus1 the celebrated highwayman1 by the ,ridd family1 at ,plover's ,barrows3-- ,a few oysters first1 and then dried salmon1 and then ham and eggs1 done in small curled rashers1 and then a few collops of venison toasted1 and next a little cold roast pig1 and a woodcock on toast to finish with4 ,this meal was washed down with home-brewed ale1 followed by ,schiedam and hot water4 ,one man1 and one man alone1 who has left his name printed deep on the sands of time as a writer1 thoroughly revelled in the mighty subjects of eating and drinking4 ,need his name be mentioned8 ,what is1 after all1 the great secret of the popularity of ,charles ,dickens as a novelist8 ,his broad1 generous views on the subject of meals1 as expressed through the mouths of most of the characters in his works2 as also the homely nature of such meals1 and the good and great deeds to which they led4 ,i once laid myself out to count the number of times that alcoholic refreshment is mentioned in some of the principal works of the great author2 and the record1 for ,pickwick alone1 was sufficient to sweep from the surface of the earth1 with its fiery breath1 the entire ,blue ,ribbon ,army4 ,mr4 ,pickwick was what would be called nowadays a moderate drinker4 ,that is to say1 he seldom neglected an excuse for a lotion1 nor did he despise the daylight drink4 ,but we only read of his being overcome by his potations on two occasions2 after the cricket dinner at ,muggleton1 and after the shooting luncheon on ,captain ,boldwig's ground4 ,and upon the latter occasion ,i am convinced that the hot sun had far more to do with his temporary obfuscation than the cold punch4 ,bob ,sawyer and ,ben ,allen were by no means exaggerated types of the medical students of the time4 ,the deputy sawbones of to-day writes pamphlets1 drinks coffee1 and pays his landlady every ,saturday4 ,and it was a happy touch of ,dickens to make ,sawyer and ,allen eat oysters1 and wash them down with neat brandy1 before breakfast4 ,i have known medical students1 aye6 and full-blown surgeons too1 who would commit equally daring acts2 although ,i doubt much if they would have shone at the breakfast-table afterwards1 or on the ice later in the day4 ,for the effect exercised by brandy on oysters is pretty well known to science4 ,breathes there a man with soul so dead as not to appreciate the delights of ,dingley ,dell8 ,free trade and other horrors have combined to crush the ,british yeoman of to-day2 but we none the less delight to read of him as he was1 and ,i do not know a better cure for an attack of blue devils--or should it be black dog8--than a good dose of ,dingley ,dell4 ,the wholesale manner in which ,mr4 ,wardle takes possession of the ,pickwickians--only one of whom he knows intimately--for purposes of entertainment1 is especially delightful1 and worthy of imitation2 and ,i can only regret the absence of a good1 cunningly-mixed cup at the picnic after the ,chatham review4 ,the wine drunk at this picnic would seem to have been sherry2 as there was not such a glut of the sparkling in those good old times4 ,and the prompt way in which ,emma is commanded to bring out the cherry brandy1 before his guests have been two minutes in the house1 bespeaks the character of dear old ,wardle in once4 ,the ,leathern ,bottle1 a charming old-world hostelry in that picturesque country lying between ,rochester and ,cobham1 would hardly have been in existence now1 let alone doing a roaring trade1 but for the publication of ,pickwick2 and the notion of the obese ,tupman solacing himself for blighted hopes and taking his leave of the world on a diet of roast fowl bacon1 ale1 etc41 is unique4 ,the bill-of-fare at the aforementioned shooting luncheon might not1 perhaps1 satisfy the aspirations of ,sir ,mota ,kerr1 or some other nouveau riche of to-day1 but there was plenty to eat and drink4 ,here is the list1 in ,mr4 ,samuel ,weller's own words3 ,weal pie1 tongue3 a wery good thing when it ain't a woman's3 bread1 knuckle o' ham1 reg'lar picter1 cold beef in slices2 wery good4 ,what's in them stone jars1 young touch-and-go8 ,beer in this one1 replied the boy1 taking from his shoulder a couple of large stone bottles1 fastened together by a leathern strap1 cold punch in t'other4 ,and a wery good notion of a lunch it is1 take it altogether1 said ,mr4 ,weller4 ,possibly2 though cold beef in slices would be apt to get rather dryer than was desirable on a warm day4 ,and milk punch hardly seems the sort of tipple to encourage accuracy of aim4 ,mrs4 ,bardell's notion of a nice little supper we gather from the same immortal work1 was a couple of sets of pettitoes and some toasted cheese4 ,the pettitoes were presumably simmered in milk1 and the cheese was1 undoubtedly1 browning away most delightfully in a little ,dutch oven in front of the fire4 ,most of us will smack our lips after this description2 though details are lacking as to the contents of the black bottle which was produced from a small closet4 ,but amongst students of ,pickwick1 ,old ,tom is a hot favourite4 ,the ,deputy ,shepherd's particular vanity appears to have been buttered toast and reeking hot pine-apple rum and water1 which sounds like swimming-in-the-head2 and going straight through the book1 we next pause at the description of the supper given by the medical students1 at their lodgings in the ,borough1 to the ,pickwickians4 ,the man to whom the order for the oysters had been sent had not been told to open them2 it is a very difficult thing to open an oyster with a limp knife or a two-pronged fork2 and very little was done in this way4 ,very little of the beef was done either2 and the ham 7which was from the ,german-sausage shop round the corner7 was in a similar predicament4 ,however1 there was plenty of porter in a tin can2 and the cheese went a great way1 for it was very strong4 ,probably the oysters had not been paid for in advance1 and the man imagined that they would be returned upon his hands none the worse4 ,for at that time--as has been remarked before1 in this volume on gastronomy--the knowledge that an oyster baked in his own shells1 in the middle of a clear fire1 is an appetising dish1 does not appear to have been universal4 ,it is questionable if a supper consisting of a boiled leg of mutton with the usual trimmings would have satisfied the taste of the gentleman's gentleman of to-day1 who is a hypercritic1 if anything2 but let that supper be taken as read4 ,also let it be noted that the appetite of the redoubtable ,pickwick never seems to have failed him1 even in the sponging-house--five to one can be betted that those chops were fried--or in the ,fleet ,prison itself4 ,and mention of this establishment recalls the extravagant folly of ,job ,trotter 7who of all men ought to have known better7 in purchasing a small piece of raw loin of mutton for the refection of himself and ruined master2 when for the same money he could surely have obtained a sufficiency of bullock's cheek or liver1 potatoes1 and onions1 to provide dinner for three days4 ,vide the ,kent ,road ,cookery1 in one of my earlier chapters4 ,the description of the journeys from ,bristol to ,birmingham1 and back to ,london1 absolutely reeks with food and alcohol2 and it has always smacked of the mysterious to myself how ,sam ,weller1 a pure ,cockney1 could have known so much of the capacities of the various hostelries on the road4 ,evidently his knowledge of other places besides ,london was peculiar4 ,last scene of all in ,pickwick requiring mention here1 is the refection given to ,mr4 ,solomon ,pell in honour of the proving of the late ,dame ,weller's last will and testament4 ,porter1 cold beef1 and oysters1 were some of the incidents of that meal1 and we read that the coachman with the hoarse voice took an imperial pint of vinegar with his oysters1 without betraying the least emotion4 ,it is also set down that brandy and water1 as usual in this history1 followed the oysters2 but we are not told if any of those coachmen ever handled the ribbons again1 or if ,mr4 ,solomon ,pell spent his declining days in the infirmary4 ,in fact1 there are not many chapters in ,charles ,dickens' works in which the knife and fork do not play prominent parts4 ,the food is1 for the most part1 simple and homely2 the seed sown in ,england by the fairy ,ala had hardly begun to germinate at the time the novels were written4 ,still there is1 naturally1 a suspicion of ,ala at the very commencement of ,little ,dorrit1 the scene being laid in the ,marseilles prison1 where ,monsieur ,rigaud feasts off ,lyons sausage1 veal in savoury jelly1 white bread1 strachino cheese1 and good claret1 the while his humble companion1 ,signor ,john ,baptist1 has to content himself with stale bread1 through reverses at gambling with his fellow prisoner4 ,after that1 there is no mention of a square meal until we get to ,mr4 ,casby's1 the ,patriarch4 ,everything about the patriarchal household1 we are told1 promoted quiet digestion2 and the dinner mentioned began with some soup1 some fried soles1 a butter-boat of shrimp sauce1 and a dish of potatoes4 ,rare old ,casby6 ,mutton1 a steak1 and an apple pie--and presumably cheese--furnished the more solid portion of the banquet1 which appears to have been washed down with porter and sherry wine1 and enlivened by the inconsequent remarks of ,mr4 ,f4's ,aunt4 ,in ,great ,expectations occurs the celebrated banquet at the ,chateau ,gargery on ,christmas ,day1 consisting of a leg of pickled pork and greens1 a pair of roast stuffed fowls1 a handsome mince pie1 and a plum-pudding4 ,the absence of the savoury pork-pie1 and the presence of tar-water in the brandy are incidents at that banquet familiar enough to ,sir ,frank ,lockwood1 ,q4,c41 ,m4,p41 and other close students of ,dickens1 whose favourite dinner-dish would appear to have been a fowl1 stuffed or otherwise1 roast or boiled4 ,in ,oliver ,twist we get casual mention of oysters1 sheep's heads1 and a rabbit pie1 with plenty of alcohol2 but the bill of fare1 on the whole1 is not an appetising one4 ,the meat and drink at the ,maypole ,hotel1 in ,barnaby ,rudge1 would appear to have been deservedly popular2 and the description of ,gabriel ,varden's breakfast is calculated to bring water to the most callous mouth3 ,over and above the ordinary tea equipage the board creaked beneath the weight of a jolly round of beef1 a ham of the first magnitude1 and sundry towers of buttered ,yorkshire cake1 piled slice upon slice in most alluring order4 ,there was also a goodly jug of well-browned clay1 fashioned into the form of an old gentleman not by any means unlike the locksmith1 atop of whose bald head was a fine white froth answering to his wig1 indicative1 beyond dispute1 of sparkling home brewed ale4 ,but better than fair home-brewed1 or ,yorkshire cake1 or ham1 or beef1 or anything to eat or drink that earth or air or water can supply1 there sat1 presiding over all1 the locksmith's rosy daughter1 before whose dark eyes even beef grew insignificant1 and malt became as nothing4 ,ah-h-h6 ,there is not much eating in ,a ,tale of ,two ,cities2 but an intolerable amount of assorted sack4 ,in ,sketches by ,boz we learn that ,dickens had no great opinion of public dinners1 and that oysters were1 at that period1 occasionally opened by the fair sex4 ,there is a nice flavour of fowl and old ,madeira about ,dombey and ,son1 and the description of the dinner at ,doctor ,blimber's establishment for young gentlemen is worth requoting3 ,there was some nice soup2 also roast meat1 boiled meat1 vegetables1 pie1 and cheese4 ,cheese at a small boys' school6 ,every young gentleman had a massive silver fork and a napkin2 and all the arrangements were stately and handsome4 ,in particular there was a butler in a blue coat and bright buttons surely this was a footman8 who gave quite a winey flavour to the table beer1 he poured it out so superbly4 ,dinner at ,mrs4 ,jellyby's in ,bleak ,house is one of the funniest and most delightful incidents in the book1 especially the attendance4 ,the young woman with the flannel bandage waited1 and dropped everything on the table wherever it happened to go1 and never moved it again until she put it on the stairs4 ,the person ,i had seen in pattens 7who ,i suppose to have been the cook7 frequently came and skirmished with her at the door1 and there appeared to be ill-will between them4 ,the dinner given by ,mr4 ,guppy at the ,slap ,bang dining house is another feature of this book--veal and ham1 and ,french beans1 summer cabbage1 pots of half-and-half1 marrow puddings1 three ,cheshires and three small rums4 ,of the items in this list1 the marrow pudding seems to be as extinct--in ,london1 at all events--as the dodo4 ,it appears to be a mixture of bread1 pounded almonds1 cream1 eggs1 lemon peel1 sugar1 nutmeg1 and marrow2 and sounds nice4 ,david ,copperfield's dinner in his ,buckingham ,street chambers was an event with a disastrous termination4 ,it was a remarkable want of forethought on the part of the ironmonger who had made ,mrs4 ,crupp's kitchen fireplace1 that it was capable of cooking nothing but chops and mashed potatoes4 ,as to a fish-kettle1 ,mrs4 ,crupp said ',well6 would ,i only come and look at the range8 ,she couldn't say fairer than that4 ,would ,i come and look at it8' ,as ,i should not have been much the wiser if ,i had looked at it ,i said never mind fish4 ,but ,mrs4 ,crupp said1 ',don't say that2 oysters was in1 and why not them8' ,so that was settled4 ,mrs4 ,crupp then said ',what she would recommend would be this4 ,a pair of hot roast fowls--from the pastry cook's2 a dish of stewed beef1 with vegetables--from the pastry cook's2 two little corner things1 as a raised pie and a dish of kidneys--from the pastry cook's2 a tart1 and 7if ,i liked7 a shape of jelly--from the pastry cook's4 ,this1' ,mrs4 ,crupp said1 'would leave her at full liberty to concentrate her mind on the potatoes1 and to serve up the cheese and celery as she could wish to see it done4' ,then blessings on thee1 ,micawber1 most charming of characters in fiction1 mightiest of punch-brewers6 ,the only fault ,i have to find with the novel of ,david ,copperfield is that we don't get enough of ,micawber4 ,the same fault1 however1 could hardly be said to lie in the play2 for if ever there was a fat part1 it is ,wilkins ,micawber4 ,martin ,chuzzlewit bubbles over with eating and drinking2 and ,todgers has become as proverbial as ,hamlet4 ,in ,nicholas ,nickleby1 too1 we find plenty of mention of solids and liquids2 and as a poor stroller myself at one time1 it has always struck me that business could not have been so very bad1 after all1 in the ,crummles ,combination2 for the manager1 at all events1 seems to have fared particularly well4 ,last on the list comes ,the ,old ,curiosity ,shop1 with the celebrated stew at the ,jolly ,sandboys1 the ingredients in which have already been quoted by the present writer4 ,with regard to this stew all that ,i have to remark is that ,i should have substituted an ox-kidney for the tripe1 and left out the sparrowgrass1 the flavour of which would be quite lost in the crowd of ingredients4 ,but there6 who can cavil at such a feast8 ,fetch me a pint of warm ale1 and don't let nobody bring into the room even so much as a biscuit till the time arrives4 ,codlin may not have been the friend2 but he was certainly the judge of the ,punch party4 ,in this realistic age1 meals on the stage have to be provided from high-class hotels or restaurants2 and this is1 probably1 the chief reason why there is so little eating and drinking introduced into the modern drama4 ,gone are the nights of the banquet of pasteboard poultry1 property pine-apples1 and gilded flagons containing nothing more sustaining than the atmosphere of coal-gas4 ,not much faith is placed in the comic scenes of a pantomime nowadays2 or it is probable that the clown would purloin real ,york hams1 and stuff ,wall's sausages into the pockets of his ample pants4 ,champagne is champagne under the present regime of raised prices1 raised salaries1 raised everything2 and it is not so long since ,i overheard an actor-manager chide a waiter from a fashionable restaurant1 for forgetting the ,soubise sauce1 when he brought the cutlets4 ,in my acting days we usually had canvas fowls1 stuffed with sawdust1 when we revelled on the stage2 or1 if business had been particularly good1 the poultry was made from breakfast rolls1 with pieces skewered on1 to represent the limbs4 ,and the potables--,gadzooks6 ,what horrible concoctions have found their way down this unsuspecting throttle6 ,sherry was invariably represented by cold tea1 which is palatable enough if home-made1 under careful superintendence1 but1 drawn in the property-master's den1 usually tasted of glue4 ,ginger beer1 at three-farthings for two bottles1 poured into tumblers containing portions of a seidlitz-powder1 always did duty for champagne2 and as for port or claret--well1 ,i quite thought ,i had swallowed the deadliest of poisons one night1 until assured it was only the cold leavings of the stage-door-keeper's coffee6 ,the story of ,tiny ,tim who ate the goose is a pretty familiar one in stage circles4 ,when playing ,bob ,cratchit1 in ,the ,christmas ,carol at the ,adelphi1 under ,mr4 ,benjamin ,webster's management1 ,mr4 ,j4 ,l4 ,toole had to carve a real goose and a practicable plum-pudding during the run of that piece1 forty nights4 ,and the little girl who played ,tiny ,tim used to finish her portions of goose and pudding with such amazing celerity that ,mr4 ,toole became quite alarmed on her account4 ',i don't like it1' ,i said1 writes dear friend ,johnny1 in his ,reminiscences2 ',i can't conceive where a poor1 delicate little thing like that puts the food4 ,besides1 although ,i like the children to enjoy a treat'--and how they kept on enjoying it for forty nights was a mystery1 for ,i got into such a condition that if ,i dined at a friend's house1 and goose was on the table1 ,i regarded it as a personal affront--,i said1 referring to ,tiny ,tim1 ',i don't like greediness2 and it is additionally repulsive in a refined-looking1 delicate little thing like this2 besides1 it destroys the sentiment of the situation--and when ,i1 as ,bob1 ought to feel most pathetic1 ,i am always wondering where the goose and the pudding are1 or whether anything serious in the way of a fit will happen to ,tiny ,tim before the audience1 in consequence of her unnatural gorging6' ,mrs4 ,mellon laughed at me at first1 but eventually we decided to watch ,tiny ,tim together4 ,we watched as well as we could1 and the moment ,tiny ,tim was seated1 and began to eat1 we observed a curious shuffling movement at the stage-fireplace1 and everything that ,i had given her1 goose and potatoes1 and apple-sauce disappeared behind the sham stove1 the child pretending to eat as heartily as ever from the empty plate4 ,when the performance was over1 ,mrs4 ,mellon and myself asked the little girl what became of the food she did not eat1 and1 after a little hesitation1 she confessed that her little sister 7,i should mention that they were the children of one of the scene-shifters7 waited on the other side of the fireplace for the supplies1 and then the whole family enjoyed a hearty supper every night4 ,dickens was very much interested in the incident4 ,when ,i had finished1 he smiled a little sadly1 ,i thought1 and then1 shaking me by the hand1 he said1 ',ah6 you ought to have given her the whole goose4' ,,chapter ,,xxii ,,restoratives ,raze out the written troubles of the brain1 ,and with some antibilious antidote ,cleanse the stuff'd bosom of that perilous stuff ,which weighs upon the soul4 ,william of ,normandy--,a head wind at sea--,beware the druggist--,pick-me-ups of all sorts and conditions--,anchovy toast for the invalid--,a small bottle--,straight talks to fanatics--,total abstinence as bad as the other thing--,moderation in all things--,wisely and slow--,carpe diem--,but have a thought for the morrow4 ,i care not1 observed ,william of ,normandy to his quartermaster-general1 on the morning after the revelry which followed the ,battle of ,hastings1 who makes these barbarians' wines2 send me the man who can remove the beehive from my o'erwrought brain4 ,this remark is not to be found in ,macaulay's ,history of ,england2 but learned authorities who have read the original ,,ms4 in ,early ,norman1 make no doubt as to the correct translation4 ,it is excellent1 as the poet says1 to have a giant's thirst2 but it is tyrannous to use it like a giant4 ,and not only tyrannous but short-sighted4 ,for the law of compensation is one of the first edicts of ,nature4 ,the same beneficent hand which provides the simple fruits of the earth for the delectation of man1 furnishes also the slug and the wasp1 to see that he doesn't get too much4 ,our friend the dog is deprived of the power of articulation1 but he has a tail which can be wagged at the speed of #fjj revolutions to the minute4 ,and the man who overtaxes the powers of his inner mechanism during the hours of darkness is certain to feel the effects1 to be smitten of conscience1 and troubled of brain1 when he awakes1 a few hours later on4 ,as this is not a medical treatise it would be out of place to analyse at length the abominable habit which the human brain and stomach have acquired1 of acting and reacting on each other2 suffice it to say that there is no surer sign of the weakness and helplessness of poor1 frail1 sinful1 fallen humanity than the obstinacy with which so many of us will1 for the sake of an hour or two's revelry1 boldly bid for five times the amount of misery and remorse4 ,and this more especially applies to a life on the ocean wave4 ,the midshipmite who over-estimates his swallowing capacity is no longer mast-headed next morning2 but the writer has experienced a cyclone in the ,bay of ,bengal1 ere the effects of a birthday party on the previous night had been surmounted2 and the effects of mast-heading could hardly have been less desirable4 ,in that most delightful work for the young1 ,dana's ,two years before the ,mast1 we read3 ,our forecastle1 as usual after a liberty-day1 was a scene of tumult all night long1 from the drunken ones4 ,they had just got to sleep toward morning1 when they were turned up with the rest1 and kept at work all day in the water1 carrying hides1 their heads aching so that they could hardly stand4 ,this is sailors' pleasure4 ,dana himself was ordered up aloft1 to reef torpsles1 on his first morning at sea2 and he had probably had some sort of a farewell carouse1 'ere quitting ,boston4 ,and the present writer upon one occasion--such is the irony of fate--was told off to indite a leading article on ,temperance for an evening journal1 within a very few hours of the termination of a ,derby banquet4 ,but how shall we alleviate the pangs8 ,how make that dreadful day after endurable enough to cause us to offer up thanks for being still allowed to live8 ,come1 the panacea1 good doctor6 ,first of all1 then1 avoid the chemist and his works4 ,i mean no disrespect to my good friend ,sainsbury1 or his ,number ,one ,pick-me-up1 whose corpse-reviving claims are indisputable2 but at the same time the habitual swallower of drugs does not lead the happiest life4 ,i once knew a young subaltern who had an account presented to him by the cashier of the firm of ,peake and ,allen1 of the great continent of ,india1 for nearly #cjj rupees2 and the items in said account were entirely chloric ether1 extract of cardamoms--with the other component parts of a high-class restorative1 and interest4 ,saddening6 ,the next thing to avoid1 the first thing in the morning1 is soda-water1 whether diluted with brandy or whisky4 ,the peg may be all very well as an occasional potation1 but1 believe one who has tried most compounds1 'tis a precious poor livener4 ,on the contrary1 although a beaker of the straw-coloured 7or occasionally1 mahogany-coloured7 fluid may seem to steady the nerves for the time being1 that effect is by no means lasting4 ,but the same panacea will not do in every case4 ,if the patient be sufficiently convalescent to digest a ,doctor 7,i do not mean a ,m4,r4,c4,s47 his state must be far from hopeless4 ,a ,doctor is a mixture of beaten raw egg--not forgetting the white1 which is of even more value than the yolk to the invalid--brandy1 a little sifted sugar1 and new milk4 ,but many devotees of ,bacchus could as soon swallow rum-and-oysters1 in bed4 ,and do not let us blame ,bacchus unduly for the matutinal trouble4 ,the fairy ,ala has probably had a lot to do with that trouble4 ,a ,doctor can be made with sherry or whisky1 instead of brandy2 and many stockbrokers' clerks1 sporting journalists1 and other millionaires prefer a ,surgeon-,major1 who appears in the form of a large tumbler containing a couple of eggs beaten1 and filled to the brim with the wine of the champagne district4 ,a ,scorcher is made with the juice of half a lemon squeezed into a large wine-glass2 add a liqueur-glassful of old brandy1 or ,hollands1 and a dust of cayenne4 ,mix well1 and do not allow any lemon-pips to remain in the glass4 ,prairie ,oyster4 ,this is an ,american importation4 ,there is a legend to the effect that one of a hunting party fell sick unto death1 on the boundless prairie of ,texas1 and clamoured for oysters4 ,now the close and cautious bivalve no more thrives in a blue grass country than he possesses the ability to walk up stairs1 or make a starting-price book4 ,so one of the party1 an inventive genius1 cudgelled his brains for a substitute4 ,he found some prairie hen's eggs1 and administered the unbroken yolks thereof1 one at a time1 in a wine-glass containing a teaspoonful of vinegar4 ,he shook the pepper-castor over the yolks and added a pinch of salt4 ,the patient recovered4 ,the march of science has improved on this recipe4 ,instead of despoiling the prairie hen1 the epicure now looks to ,madame ,gobble for a turkey egg4 ,and a ,worcester ,oyster is turned out ready made1 by simply substituting a teaspoonful of ,lea and ,perrins' most excellent sauce for vinegar4 ,brazil ,relish4 ,this is1 ,i am assured1 a much-admired restorative in ,brazil1 and the regions bordering on the ,river ,plate4 ,it does not sound exactly the sort of stimulant to take after a bump supper1 or a ,kaffir entertainment1 but here it is3 ,into a wine-glass half full of curaoa pop the unbroken yolk of a bantam's egg4 ,fill the glass up with maraschino4 ,according to my notion1 a good cup of hot1 strong tea would be equally effectual1 as an emetic1 and withal cheaper4 ,but they certainly take the mixture as a pick-me-up in ,brazil4 ,port-flip is a favourite stimulant with our ,american cousins4 ,beat up an egg in a tumbler--if you have no metal vessels to shake it in1 the shortest way is to put a clean white card1 or a saucer1 over the mouth of the tumbler1 and shake--then add a little sugar1 a glass of port1 and some pounded ice4 ,strain before drinking4 ,leaving out the ice and the straining1 this is exactly the same refresher which the friends of a criminal1 who had served his term of incarceration in one of ,h4,m4 gaols1 were in the habit of providing for him2 and when the ,cold ,bath ,fields ,prison was a going concern1 there was a small hostelry hard by1 in which1 on a ,monday morning1 the consumption of port wine 7fruity7 and eggs 7shop 'uns1 every one7 was considerable4 ,this on the word of an ex-warder1 who subsequently became a stage-door keeper4 ,one of the most unsatisfactory effects of good living is that the demon invoked over-night does not always assume the same shape in your waking hours4 ,many sufferers will feel a loathing for any sort of food or drink1 except cold water4 ,the capting1 observed the soldier-servant to a visitor 7this is an old story71 ain't very well this morning1 sir2 he've just drunk his bath1 and gone to bed again4 ,and on the other hand1 ,i have known the over-indulger absolutely ravenous for his breakfast4 ,brandy and soda1 no1 dear old chappie2 as many eggs as they can poach in five minutes1 a thick rasher of ,york ham1 two muffins1 and about a gallon and a half of hot coffee--that's what ,i feel like4 ,medical men will be able to explain those symptoms in the roysterer1 who had probably eaten and drunk quite as much over-night as the capting4 ,for the roysterer with a shy appetite there are few things more valuable than an ,anchovy ,toast4 ,the concoction of this belongs to bedroom cookery1 unless the sitting-room adjoins the sleeping apartment4 ,for the patient will probably be too faint of heart to wish to meet his fellow-men and women downstairs1 so early4 ,the mixture must be made over hot water4 ,nearly fill a slop-basin with the boiling element1 and place a soup-plate over it4 ,in the plate melt a pat of butter the size of a walnut4 ,then having beaten up a raw egg1 stir it in4 ,when thoroughly incorporated with the butter add a dessert-spoonful of essence of anchovies4 ,cayenne ad lib4 ,then let delicately-browned crisp toast be brought1 hot from the fire4 ,soak this in the mixture1 and eat as quickly as you can4 ,the above proportions must be increased if more than one patient clamours for anchovy toast2 and this recipe is of no use for a dinner1 or luncheon toast2 remember that4 ,after the meal is finished turn in between the sheets again for an hour2 then order a ,doctor1 or a ,surgeon-,major to be brought to the bedside4 ,in another twenty minutes the patient will be ready for his tub 7with the chill off1 if he be past thirty1 and has any wisdom1 or liver1 left within him74 ,after dressing1 if he live in ,london and there be any trace of brain-rack remaining1 let him take a brisk walk to his hair-dresser's1 having his boots cleaned en route4 ,this is most important1 whether they be clean or dirty2 for the action of a pair of briskly-directed brushes over the feet will often remove the most distressing of headaches4 ,arrived at the perruquier's1 let the patient direct him to rub eau de ,cologne1 or some other perfumed spirit1 into the o'er-taxed cranium1 and to squirt assorted essences over the distorted countenance4 ,a good hard brush1 and a dab of bay rum on the temples will complete the cure2 the roysterer will then be ready to face his employer1 or the maiden aunt from whom he may have expectations4 ,if the flavour of the anchovy be disagreeable1 let the patient try the following toast1 which is similar to that used with wildfowl3 ,melt a pat of butter over hot water1 stir in a dessert-spoonful of ,worcester sauce1 the same quantity of orange juice1 a pinch of cayenne1 and about half a wine-glassful of old port4 ,soak the toast in this mixture4 ,the virtues of old port as a restorative cannot be too widely known4 ,st4 ,mark's ,pick-me-up4 ,the following recipe was given to the writer by a member of an old ,venetian family4 ,ten drops of ,angostura in a liqueur-glass1 filled up with orange bitters4 ,one wine-glassful of old brandy1 one ditto cold water1 one liqueur-glassful of curaoa1 and the juice of half a lemon4 ,mix well together4 ,i have not yet tried this1 which reads rather acid4 ,for an ,overtrained athlete1 who may not take kindly to his rations1 there is no better cure than the lean of an underdone chop 7not blue inside7 hot from the fire1 on a hot plate1 with a glass of port poured over4 ,a ,hot-pickle ,sandwich should be made of two thin slices of crisp toast 7no butter7 with chopped ,west ,indian pickles in between4 ,and for a ,devilled ,biscuit select the plain cheese biscuit1 heat in the oven1 and then spread over it a paste composed of finely-pounded lobster worked up with butter1 made mustard1 ground ginger1 cayenne1 salt1 chili vinegar1 and 7if liked7 a little curry powder4 ,reheat the biscuit for a minute or two1 and then deal with it4 ,both the last-named restoratives will be found valuable 787 liver tonics2 and to save future worry the patient had better calculate1 at the same time1 the amount of ,estate ,duty which will have to be paid out of his personalty1 and secure a nice dry corner1 out of the draught1 for his place of sepulture4 ,a ,working-,man's ,livener1 7and by working-man the gentleman whose work consists principally in debating in taverns is intended7 is usually a hair of the dog that bit him over-night2 and in some instances where doubt may exist as to the particular tufter of the pack which found the working-man out1 the livener will be a miscellaneous one4 ,for solid food1 this brand of labourer will usually select an uncooked red-herring1 which he will divide into swallow-portions with his clasp-knife1 after borrowing the pepper-castor from the tavern counter4 ,and as new rum mixed with four-penny ale occasionally enters into the over-night's programme of the horny-handed one1 he is frequently very thirsty indeed before the hour of noon4 ,i have seen a journalist suck half a lemon1 previously well besprinkled with cayenne1 prior to commencing his matutinal scratch4 ,but rum and milk form1 ,i believe1 the favourite livener throughout the district which lies between the ,adelphi ,theatre and ,st4 ,paul's ,cathedral4 ,and1 according to ,doctor ,edward ,smith 7the chief ,english authority on dietetics71 rum and milk form the most powerful restorative known to science4 ,with all due respect to ,doctor ,smith ,i am prepared to back another restorative1 commonly known as a small bottle2 which means a pint of champagne4 ,i have prescribed this many a time1 and seldom known it fail4 ,in case of partial failure repeat the dose4 ,a valuable if seldom-employed restorative is made with ,bovril as one of the ingredients4 ,make half-a-pint of beef-tea in a tumbler with this extract4 ,put the tumbler in a refrigerator for an hour1 then add a liqueur-glassful of old brandy1 with just a dust of cayenne4 ,this is one of the very best pick-me-ups known to the faculty4 ,a ,swizzle1 for recuperative purposes is made with the following ingredients3--a wine-glassful of ,hollands1 a liqueur-glassful of curaoa1 three drops of ,angostura bitters1 a little sugar1 and half a small bottle of seltzer-water4 ,churn up the mixture with a swizzle-stick1 which can be easily made with the assistance of a short length of cane 7the ordinary school-treat brand7 a piece of cork1 a bit of string1 and a pocket knife4 ,a very extraordinary pick-me-up is mentioned by ,mr4 ,f4 ,c4 ,philips1 in one of his novels1 and consists of equal parts of brandy and chili vinegar in a large wine-glass4 ,such a mixture would1 in all probability1 corrode sheet-iron4 ,i am afraid that writers of romance occasionally borrow a little from imagination4 ,the most effectual restorative for the total abstainer is unquestionably1 old brandy4 ,it should be remembered that a rich1 heavy dinner is not bound to digest within the human frame1 if washed down with tea1 or aerated beverages4 ,in fact1 from the personal appearances of many worthy teetotallers ,i have known digestion cannot be their strong suit4 ,then many abstainers only abstain in public1 for the sake of example4 ,and within the locked cupboard of the study lurks a certain black bottle1 which does not contain ,kopps's ale4 ,therefore ,i repeat that the most effectual restorative for the total abstainer--whether as a direct change1 or as a hair of the dog--is brandy4 ,our ancestors cooled their coppers with small ale1 and enjoyed a subsequent sluice at the pump in the yard2 these methods are still pursued by stable-helpers and such like4 ,a good walk acts beneficially sometimes4 ,eat or drink nothing at all1 but try and do five miles along the turnpike road within the hour4 ,many habitual roysterers hunt the next morning1 with heads opening and shutting alternately1 until the fox breaks covert1 when misery of all sorts at once takes to itself wings4 ,and ,i have heard a gallant warrior1 whilst engaged in a ,polo match on ,york ,knavesmire1 protest that he could distinctly see two ,polo balls4 ,but he was not in such bad case as the eminent jockey who declined to ride a horse in a hood and blinkers1 because one of us must see1 and ,i'm hanged if ,i can6 ,it was the same jockey who1 upon being remonstrated with for taking up his whip at the final bend1 when his horse was winning easily1 replied3 whip be blowed6 it was my balance pole3 ,i should have fell off without it6 ,straight ,talks4 ,in the lowest depth there is a lower depth1 which not only threatens to devour1 but which will infallibly devour the too-persistent roysterer4 ,for such ,i labour not4 ,the seer of visions1 the would-be strangler of serpents1 the baffled rat-hunter1 and other victims to the over-estimation of human capacity will get no assistance1 beyond infinite pity1 from the mind which guides this pen4 ,the dog will return to his own vomit2 the wilful abuser of the goods sent by a bountiful ,providence is past praying for4 ,but to others who are on the point of crossing the ,rubicon of good discretion ,i would urge that there will assuredly come a time when the pick-me-up will lose its virtue1 and will fail to chase the sorrow from the brow1 to minister to the diseased mind4 ,throughout this book ,i have endeavoured to preach the doctrine of moderation in enjoyment4 ,meat and drink are1 like fire1 very good servants1 but the most oppressive and exacting of slave-drivers4 ,therefore enjoy the sweets of life1 whilst ye can2 but as civilised beings1 as gentlemen1 and not as swine4 ,for here is a motto which applies to eating and drinking even more than to other privileges which we enjoy3 ,wisely1 and slow2 ,they stumble who run fast6 ,a resort to extremes is always to be deprecated1 and many sensible men hold the total abstainer in contempt1 unless he abstain simply and solely because a moderate use of beer and baccy makes him ill2 and this man is indeed a rarity4 ,the teetotaller is either a creature with no will-power in his composition1 a ,pharisee1 who thanks ,providence that he is not as other men1 or a lunatic4 ,there can be no special virtue in swearing off good food and good liquor2 whether for the sake of example1 or for the sake of ascending a special pinnacle and posing to the world as the incarnation of perfection and holiness4 ,in the parable1 the ,publican was justified rather than the ,pharisee1 because the former had the more common sense1 and knew that if he set up as immaculate and without guile he was deceiving himself and nobody else4 ,but here on earth1 in the nineteenth century1 the ,publican stands a very poor chance with the ,pharisee1 whether the last-named assume the garb of ,social ,purity1 or ,vigilance1 or the sombre raiment of the policeman4 ,this is not right4 ,this is altogether wrong4 ,the total abstainer1 the rabid jackass who denies himself--or claims that he does so--the juice of the grape1 and drinks the horrible1 flatulent1 concoctions known as temperance beverages1 is just as great a sinner against common sense as that rabid jackass the habitual glutton1 or drunkard1 who1 in abusing the good things of life--the gifts which are given us to enjoy--is putting together a rod of rattlesnakes for his own back4 ,there is nothing picturesque about drunkenness2 and there is still less of manliness therein4 ,there is plenty of excuse for the careless1 happy-go-lucky1 casual over-estimater1 who revels1 on festive occasions1 with his boon companions4 ',tis a poor heart that never rejoices2 and wedding-feasts1 celebrations of famous victories1 birthday parties1 and ,christmas festivities have been1 and will continue to be1 held by high and low1 from the earliest times4 ,but there is no excuse1 but only pity and disgust1 for the sot who sits and soaks--or1 worse still1 stands and soaks--in the tavern day after day1 and carries the brandy-bottle to bed with him4 ,i have lived through two-thirds of the years allotted to man1 and have never yet met the man who has done himself1 or anybody else1 any good by eating or drinking to excess4 ,nor is the man who has benefited himself1 or society1 through scorning and vilifying good cheer1 a familiar sight in our midst4 ,keep in the middle of the road1 is the rule to be observed2 and there is no earthly reason why the man who may have applied hot and rebellious liquors to his blood1 as a youth1 should not enjoy that lusty winter of old age1 frosty but kindly1 provided those warm and warlike liquors have been applied in moderation4 ,i will conclude this sermon with part of a verse of the poet ,dryden's imitation of the twenty-ninth ,ode of ,horace1 though its heathen carpe diem sentiments should be qualified by a special caution as to the possible ill effects of bidding too fierce a defiance to the reaction day4 ,happy the man1 and happy he alone1 ,he who can call to-day his own2 ,he who1 secure within1 can say2-- ,to-morrow1 do thy worst1 ,i've liv'd to-day6 ,,index ,ala1 the fairy1 #fh ,albion1 the1 #gg ,alexander ,dumas1 #hj ,allowable breakfast-dishes1 #ad ,almanach des ,gourmands1 #gi1 #ahd ,anchovy toast1 #bfg ,angel's pie1 #ee ,apium1 the1 #abi ,apricot brandy1 #bbi ,artichoke1 the1 #acj ,jerusalem1 #aca ,ascot luncheon1 #ed ,asparagus1 #abd with eggs1 #ag ,aspic1 #agf ,athole brose1 #bda ,baksheesh1 #ajj ,ball suppers1 #age ,banquet1 a vegetarian1 #acb ,beano1 a1 #aba ,beans1 #aai ,borston1 #abj ,beef1 can't eat1 #if ,bernardin salmi1 a1 #ib ,birch's1 #cg ,bischoff1 #baa ,biscuit1 a devilled1 #bfi ,bishop1 #bab ,bisque1 #hi ,bitters1 #bbi ,blackmore1 ,r4 ,d41 #bdg ,blue blazer1 #bdc ,bombay duck1 a1 #adf ,bones1 grilled1 #ahi ,bosom caresser1 a1 #bci ,bouillabaisse1 #hh ,bovril1 #bga ,braddon1 ,miss1 #bdg ,brandy1 apricot1 #bbi cherry1 #bbg ginger1 #bcj orange1 #bcj sour1 #bdc ,brazil relish1 #bfe ,breakfast1 allowable dishes at1 #ad ,french1 #bg ,indian1 #ca ,mediterranean1 #bf with my tutor1 #cb ,brillat ,savarin1 #ajf ,brinjal1 the1 #aca ,broth1 ,scotch1 #eb ,buckmaster1 #gg ,bull's milk1 #bdj ,burmah1 food in1 #bjc ,burns1 ,john1 #bcd ,cabbage1 the1 #aae ,calcutta jumble1 #af ,cannie ,carle1 #ahi ,canvass-back duck1 a1 #ie ,carlton ,house ,terrace1 #ia ,carlyle1 ,thomas1 #bdf ,carrot1 the1 #aba ,cassis1 #bdd ,cauliflower1 the1 #aae ,cedric the ,saxon1 #ff ,celery1 #abi sauce1 #afd ,champagne and stout1 #bbe ,charles ,dickens1 #eb1 #bdh ,chateabriand1 a1 #gj ,chef1 ,indian1 #ace ,cheshire ,cheese1 the1 #ci pudding1 #ci ,chinaman's meal1 a1 #ia ,chops1 #ej ,chota ,hazri1 #bi ,choufleur a gratin1 #aaf ,chowringhee ,club1 the1 #ace ,christmas dinner1 a1 #hb ,chutnee1 raw1 #afc ,chutnine1 #afc ,cinquevalli1 ,paul1 #aab ,city dinners1 #ajj ,clam chowder1 #ie ,cleopatra1 #agj ,coal-hole1 the1 #ahg ,cobbler1 champagne1 #bbf sherry1 #bbf ,cocktail1 ,bengal1 #bcf brandy1 #bce champagne1 #bcf gin1 #bcg ,manhattan1 #bcf ,milford1 #bcf ,newport1 #bcg ,saratoga1 #bcg whisky1 #bcg ,yum ,yum1 #bcf ,cod liver1 #ajb ,coffee tree1 the1 #g ,cold mutton1 #afb ,collins1 ,john1 #bah ,coloured help1 #id ,corelli1 ,marie1 #bdg ,cow1 milking a1 #bje ,crcy soup1 #abb ,cremorne ,gardens1 #ahd ,cup1 ale1 #bbf ,ascot1 #bbd ,balaclava1 #bbc ,chablis1 #bbb champagne1 #bbb cider1 #bba claret1 #bbj ,crimean1 #bbc ,moselle1 #bbf ,curry1 ,benares1 #acd dry ,madras1 #add locust1 #adj ,malay1 #adj ,parsee1 #acf powder1 #aci ,prawn1 #adc rice for1 #ag1 #ade what to1 #adb when served1 #ada ,cyclone1 a1 #bfb ,dana1 #bfc ,delmonico1 #ie ,devilled biscuit1 a1 #bfi ,dickens1 ,charles1 #eb1 #bdh ,dingley ,dell1 #bdi ,dinner1 afloat1 #aja city1 #ajj ,christmas1 #hb an ideal1 #aja ,doctor1 a1 #bfd ,samuel ,johnson1 #ga ,donald1 #bbj ,duck1 ,bombay1 #adf canvass-back1 #ie jugged1 with oysters1 #df ,rouen1 #hg -squeezer1 #ic ,dumas1 ,alexander1 #hj ,dumpling1 kidney1 #aij ,early ,christians1 #fc ,closing ,act1 #aha ,eggs and bacon1 #ac ,elizabeth1 ,queen1 #ff ,englishman in ,china1 the1 #ib ,evans's1 #aha ,fairy ,ala1 the1 #fh kiss1 a1 #bdj ,fergus ,mac,ivor1 #fg ,fin'an haddie1 #bc ,fixed bayonet1 a1 #ia ,flash of lightning1 a1 #bdj ,flip1 ale-1 #baf egg-1 #bag -flap1 #bda ,fowls1 ,surrey1 #hh ,free trade1 #h ,french soup1 #ig ,fricandeau1 a1 #ajd ,garlic1 #abh ,gin1 sloe1 #bbg ,ginger brandy1 #bcj ,glasgow1 the late ,lord1 #aia ,goats1 sacrifice of1 #aih ,goose pie1 #ef ,gordon hotels1 #ga ,green1 ,paddy1 #ahb ,greenland1 across1 #aaj ,grilled bones1 #ahi ,grouse pie1 #dh ,gubbins sauce1 #ad 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,,xiv41 #fj ,lucian1 #aai ,luncheon1 ,ascot1 #ed race-course1 #ej ,simla1 #eh ,macaulay1 ,lord1 #bfa ,madre1 #id ,maiden's blush1 #bda ,majesty1 ,her1 #ajg ,mandragora1 #bca ,marrow1 vegetable1 #acj ,marsala1 #id ,mayfair1 #he ,mayonnaise1 #aec ,mediterranean breakfast1 a1 #bf ,mess-table1 the1 #aje ,miladi's boudoir1 #aij ,milk1 bull's1 #bdj ,mint julep1 #bdb ,mirepoix1 a1 #hi ,mutton1 cold1 #afb ,nansen's banquet on the ice1 #aji ,napoleon the ,great1 #ajg ,nero1 #fb ,new ,york ,city1 #ie ,nipping habit1 the1 #bcc ,no cheques accepted1 #ah ,off to ,gold-land1 #be ,old ,coppertail1 #aig ,onion1 the1 #abh ,orange brandy1 #bcj sauce1 #afa ,orgeat1 #bbd ,out ,west1 #if ,oven1 the1 #gf ,overtrained1 #bfi ,oysters1 ,aden1 #agb in their own juice1 #agc ,kurachi1 #aga prairie1 #bfe sauce1 #acg scalloped1 #agc stewed1 #agd ,worcester1 #bfe ,paddy ,green1 #ahb ,parsnip1 the1 #abi ,parlour cookery1 #ahg ,payne1 ,george1 #hb ,peake and ,allen1 #bfc ,pea soup1 #aah ,pease1 #aag ,peg1 a1 #bag 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,salad1 anchovy1 #afj a memorable1 #aeg boarding-house1 #aej celery1 #aef cheese in1 #aeh corn1 #aeh ,francatelli's1 #aej ,french1 #aea fruit1 #afa herring1 #aee ,italian1 #aei lobster1 #aea maker1 a gentleman-1 #aef orange1 #afa potato1 #aee ,roman1 #aei ,russian1 #afj tomato1 #aef ,salads1 #adg ,sala1 ,george ,augustus1 #ga ,salmi ,bernardin1 #ib of wild-duck1 #ic ,salmon steak1 #bd ,sandhurst ,r4,m4,c41 #fg ,sandwich1 a race-course1 #ec ,sambal1 #afh ,st4 ,leger1 the1 #hd ,sauce1 carp1 #afe celery1 #afd ,christopher ,north's1 #afe currant1 #afg goose1 #afh gooseberry1 #aff ,gubbins1 #ad hare1 #afe horse-radish1 #afd orange1 #afa oyster1 #acg ,tapp1 #aij ,tartare1 #aff ,savarin1 ,brillat1 #ij ,saxon dining-table1 a1 #fe ,scorcher1 a1 #bfd ,scott1 ,sir ,walter1 #fg ,scalloped oysters1 #agc ,scotch broth1 #eb ,shandy gaff1 rich man's1 #bbe ,shepherd's pie1 #de ,ship and ,turtle1 the1 #ch ,sidney1 ,harry1 #ahc ,simla1 luncheon at1 #eh to ,cashmere1 #bjj ,sligo slop1 #bdd ,sloe gin1 #bbg ,smith1 ,sydney1 #adg ,snipe pudding1 #da ,soup1 ,french1 #ig ,spanky1 #ahb ,spinach1 #abg ,sprats1 #agi ,staff of life1 the1 #g ,steaks1 #ej salmon1 #bd thoroughbred horse1 #aia ,steam-chest1 the1 #gf ,stew1 ,irish1 #ej ,jolly ,sandboys1 #ea oyster1 #agd ,stout and champagne1 #bbe ,straight talks1 #bgb ,suetonius1 #fa ,suffolk pride1 #ef ,such larks1 #df ,supper1 ,hotel ,cecil1 #agi ball1 #age ,surgeon-major1 a1 #bfd ,surrey fowls1 #hh ,swizzle1 a1 #bga ,tapp sauce1 #aij ,tartar sauce1 #aff ,tea1 #f la ,franaise1 #bh ,thibet1 #bjj ,thumb-piece1 #ec ,tiger's milk1 #bda ,toddy1 #bae whisky1 #baf ,tomato1 the1 #abf ,tomnoddy1 ,lord1 #ahj ,toole1 ,john ,lawrence1 #beh ,tournedos1 a1 #hi ,tripe1 #agg how to cook1 #agh ,tsar1 the1 #eg ,tsaritza1 the1 #hf ,turkey1 the1 #id pulled1 #id ,turmeric1 #aci ,turnip1 #abg ,turner1 ,godfrey1 #ajc ,vegetarian banquet1 a1 #acb ,vitellius1 #fa ,vol-au-,vent financire1 #ij ,waiter1 the1 #aab ,wardon pie1 a1 #e ,wellington1 ,duke of1 #ajg ,west ,indies1 the1 #bdj ,west1 out1 #if ,whisky1 sour1 #bdc ,wild-duck1 salmi of1 #ic ,william the ,conqueror1 #bfa ,woodcock pie1 #dg ,working man1 the1 #bgj ,wyndham1 #bda ,yates1 ,edmund's ,reminiscences1 #agh ,york1 ,new1 #ie ,yorkshire pie1 #di ,,the ,,end ,,miller1 ,,son1 ,,and ,,compy41 ,,limited1 ,,printers1 ,,fakenham ,,and ,,london4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,it is incorrect to speak of bread as the sole staff of life4 ,eggs1 milk1 cheese1 potatoes1 and some other vegetables1 supply between them far more phosphoric acid than is to be got from bread1 either white or brown4 ,and a man could support existence on beer and baccy as well as he could do so on bread alone4 #b ,in most recipes for puddings or pies1 rump steak is given4 ,but this is a mistake1 as the tendency of that part of the ox is to harden1 when subjected to the process of boiling or baking4 ,besides the skirt--the thick skirt--there be tit-bits to be cut from around the shoulder4 #c ,the cannie ,scot1 however1 never made his haggis from anything belonging to the pig4 ,the dislike of the ,scots to pork dates from very long ago1 as we read in a note to ,sir ,walter ,scott's ,waverley4 ,king ,jamie carried this prejudice to ,england1 and is known to have abhorred pork almost as much as he did tobacco4 ,his proposed banquet to the ,deil consisted of a loin of pork1 a poll 7or head7 of ling1 with a pipe of tobacco for digestion4 #d ,this dish must somewhat resemble the ,fixed ,bayonet1 which at one time was the favourite tit-bit of ,tommy ,atkins1 when quartered in ,india4 ,it consisted of a fowl1 stuffed with green chilis1 and boiled in rum4 ,the fowl was picked to the bones1 and the soldier wound up with the soup4 ,very tasty6 #e ,kidney potatoes should always be boiled1 as steaming makes them more waxy4 #f ,doubtful starters4 #g ,formerly ,assistant-,surgeon ,royal ,artillery4 ,a celebrated lecturer on ,the ,inner ,man1 and author of ,number ,one1 and ,how to take ,care of ,him1 etc4 #h ,of all the delicacies in the whole mundus edibilis ,i will maintain it to be the most delicate--princeps obsoniorum4 ,i speak not of your grown porkers--things between pig and pork--those hobbydehoys2 but a young and tender suckling1 under a moon old1 guiltless as yet of the sty1 with no original speck of the amor immunditiae1 the hereditary failing of the first parents1 yet manifest--his voice as yet not broken1 but something between a childish treble and a grumble--the mild forerunner or praeludium of a grunt4 ,he must be roasted4 ,i am not ignorant that our ancestors ate them seethed1 or boiled--but what a sacrifice of the exterior tegument6 ,his sauce should be considered4 ,decidedly a few bread-crumbs1 done up with his liver and brains1 and a dash of mild sage4 ,but banish1 dear ,mrs4 ,cook1 ,i beseech you1 the whole onion tribe4 ,barbecue your whole hogs to your palate1 steep them in shalots1 stuff them out with plantations of the rank and guilty garlic--you cannot poison them1 or make them stronger than they are2 but consider1 he is a weakling--a flower4--,lamb on ,pig4 #i ,our then commanding officer was noted for his powers of self-control4 ,i once noticed him leave the table hurriedly1 and retire to the verandah4 ,after an interval he returned1 and apologised to the ,president4 ,our revered chief had only swallowed a flying bug4 ,and he never even used a big ,d4 #aj ,an excellent aerated water and a natural one1 is obtained from springs in the valley beneath the ,long ,mynd1 near ,church ,stretton1 in ,shropshire4 ,in fact1 the ,stretton waters deserve to be widely known1 and are superior to most of the foreign ones4