,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,great ,,/atue ,,(   
,,buddha ,,at ,,kamakura      ,,an      
,,arti/',s ,,lett]s ,,f ,,japan         
,,by    ,,john ,,la ,,f>ge              
,illu/ration      ,,new ,,york    ,,!   
,,c5tury ,,co4    #ahig                 
,copyright1 #ahij1 #ahia1 #ahic1 #ahig1 
,by ,,! ,,c5tury ,,co4      ,,! ,,de    
,,v9ne ,,press4          ,,to ,,h5ry    
,,adams1 ,,esq4    ,my ,de> ,adams3 ,)\t
 y ,i %\ld n h se5 ! place1 )\t  y ,i   
%\ld n h se5 ! ?+s ( :i* ^! notes are   
impressions4 ,if any?+ wor? repeat+ has 
be5 said by me 9 ^!  lett]s1 x has      
probably come f y1 or has be5 sugge/$ by
 be+  ) y--p]haps ev5 9 ! way (         
contradiction4 ,& y may be  amus$ by !  
light] talk ( ! arti/ t m]ely describes 
appe>ances1 or cov]s !m ) a tissue (    
dreams4 ,& y alone w  "k h[ mu* has be5 
)held t might h be5 indiscreetly said4  
,if only we _h f\nd ,nirvana--b he 0 "r 
:o w>n$ u t we  7 late 9 ?is season ( ! 
_w4     ,j4 ,l4 ,f4      ,illu/ration3  
,,:i* ,,9 ,,engli% ,,means3    ,,& ,,y  

,,too1 ,,okakura ,,san3 ,i wi% to put   
y\r "n be=e ^! notes1  writt5 at ! "t :5
 ,i fir/ met y1 because ! memories ( y\r
  talks are connect$ ) my lik+ ( y\r    
c\ntry & ( its /ory1 &  because = a "t y
 7 ,japan to me4 ,i hope1 too1 t "s     
?\ghts  ( y\rs w be detect$ 9 :at ,i    
write1 z a /ream runs ?r\gh             
grass--hidd51 p]haps1 b always !re4 ,we 
are sep>at$ by _m  ?+s besides di/ance1 
b y "k t ! blossoms scatt]$ by !  wat]s 
( ! torr5t %all meet at its end4        
,,cont5ts                               
,,page      ,,an ,,arti/',s ,,lett]s ,,f
 ,,japan                       #a       
,,f ,,tokio ,,to ,,nikko                
#bi      ,,! ,,%r9es ,,( ,,iy,,yas ,,&  
,,iy,,mits      ,,9 ,,! ,,holy ,,m\nta9 
,,( ,,nikko                     #eb     
,,iy,,mits                              
#he      ,,tao3 ,,! ,,way               
#ii      ,,japanese ,,ar*itecture       
#aai      ,,bric--,,brac                
#abh      ,,sket*+                      
#aei      ,,nirvana                     

#age      ,,sket*+4--,,! ,,flutes ,,(   
,,iy,,yas                  #ahe         
,,sket*+4--,,! ,,pagoda ,,9 ,,ra9       
#aic      ,,f ,,nikko ,,to ,,kamakura   
#aie      ,,nikko ,,to ,,yokohama       
#bjb      ,,yokohama--,,kamakura        
#baf      ,,kioto                       
#bcj      ,a ,,japanese ,,day4--,,f     
,,kioto ,,to ,,gifu                #bec 
,,f ,,kamb>a ,,to ,,miyano%ita--,a      
,,lett] ,,f      ,a ,,kago              
#bfe      ,,po/script                   
#bhj      ,,app5dix                     
#bha            ,,illu/rations          
,,page      ,,! ,,great ,,/atue ,,(     
,,buddha ,,at ,,kamakura4               
,,frontispiece4      ,,! ,,kuruma       
#e      ,,ca/le1 ,,& ,,moat ,,) ,,lotus 
#i      ,,at ,,! ,,well                 
#aa      ,,anci5t                       
#ae      ,n ,,danc] ,,) ,,mask1         
,,repres5t+ ,,! ,,sak ,,imp      #ai    
,,mod]n                                 
#bc      ,,! ,,lake ,,9 ,,uy,,no ,,p>k  
#bh      ,a ,,torii                     

#cb      ,,our ,,runn]                  
#cf      ,,9 ,,! ,,great ,,av5ue ,,(    
,,cryptom]ia                  #ci       
,,nikko-,,san                           
#dc      ,,! ,,wat]fall ,,9 ,,our ,,g>d5
                         #dg            
,,portrait-,,/atue ,,( ,,iy,,yas ,,9    
,,c]emonial ,,dress      #ec            
,,av5ue ,,to ,,temple ,,( ,,iy,,yas     
#ee      ,,sket* ,,( ,,/atue ,,(        
,,iy,,yas ,,tokugawa                #eg 
,,/able ,,( ,,sacr$ ,,horses            
#fa      ,,sacr$ ,,font                 
#fe      ,,"y ,,prie/                   
#fh      ,,details ,,( ,,bases ,,(      
,,cloi/] ,,walls1 ,,inn] ,,c\rt     #ga 
,,detail ,,( ,,cloi/] ,,walls1 ,,inn]   
,,c\rt               #ge      ,,l9tel1  
,,bracket ,,capital                     
#gg      ,,inside ,,! ,,cat             
,,gate--,,gate ,,to ,,! ,,tomb          
#gi      ,,tomb ,,( ,,iy,,yas1          
,,tokugawa                           #hc
      ,,look+ ,,d[n ,,on ,,!            
,,wat]-,,tank1 ,,or    ,,sacr$ ,,font1  

,,f ,,! ,,second ,,gate                 
#hg      ,a ,,prie/ ,,at ,,iy,,mits     
#hh      ,,9 ,,! ,,?ird ,,gate ,,( ,,!  
,,temple ,,( ,,iy,,mits1    ,,look+     
,,t[>d ,,! ,,f\r?                       
#ia      ,a ,,prie/ ,,at ,,iy,,mits     
#ic      ,,kuwanon1 ,,by ,,okio         
#id      ,,entrance ,,to ,,! ,,tomb ,,( 
,,iy,,mits                    #if       
,,pa9t+ ,,by ,,*9-,,nan-,,p9            
#ace      ,,signature ,,( ,,hokusai     
#adi      ,,inscription ,,on ,,old      
,,lacqu]                         #aeb   
,,inscription ,,f ,,ho-,,riu-,,ji       
#aee      ,,b$ ,,( ,,! ,,dayagawa1      
,,nikko                         #afa    
,,m\nta9s ,,9 ,,fog ,,be=e ,,our ,,h\se 
#afe      ,,portrait ,,( ,a ,,prie/     
#afi      ,,old ,,pagoda ,,ne> ,,!      
,,prie/s' ,,h\ses                #aga   
,,/atue ,,( ,,oya ,,jizo                
#agg      ,,peasant ,,girls ,,& ,,m\nta9
 ,,horses ,,( ,,nikko         #aha      
,,our ,,l&lord ,,! ,,buddhi/ ,,prie/    
#ahg      ,,kioto ,,9 ,,fog--,,morn+    

#bca      ,,peasant ,,woman--,,?re%]    
#bci      ,a ,,pilgrim                  
#bdg      ,,fusi-,,yama ,,f ,,kamb>a    
,,bea*                       #beg       
,,fi%+ ,,) ,,cormorants                 
#bfa      ,,peasant ,,c>ry+ ,,fodd]1 ,,&
 ,,bull ,,c>ry+ ,,load    #bfg      ,a  
,,runn] ,,9 ,,! ,,ra9                   
#bge            ,,an ,,arti/',s ,,lett]s
    ,,f ,,japan                         
,,yokohama1 ,july #c1 #ahhf4    ,arriv$ 
ye/]day4 ,on ! cov] ( ! lett] :i* ,i    
mail$ f our  /eam] ,i _h b "t to write3 
,we are com+ 92 x is l !  picture books4
 ,any?+ t ,i c add w only be a fill+ 9 (
  detail4    ,we 7 9 ! great bay :5 ,i  
came up on deck 9 ! e>ly morn+4  ,! sea 
0 smoo? l ! brilliant blank pap] ( !    
pr9ts2 a va/  surface ( wat] reflect+ ! 
light ( ! sky z if x 7 ?ick]  air4      
,f>-(f /reaks ( blue light1 l f9e/ wa%es
 ( ! bru%1  det]m9$ di/ances4 ,beyond1 9
 a :ite haze1 ! squ>e :ite sails  spott$
 ! :ite horizon & float$ above x4    ,! 
slack5$ beat ( ! eng9e made a great     

noise 9 ! quiet  wat]s4 ,di/ant high    
hills ( foggy gre5 m>k$ ! new l&2 ne>]  
u1 junks ( ! %apes y "k1 9 violet       
transp>5cy ( %ad[1 &  five or six       
w>-%ips & /eam]s1 r$ & black1 or :ite1  
look+  b>b>\s & out ( place1 b /ill z if
 !y 7 "p ( u2 &  spread all ar\nd u a   
fleet ( small boats1 mann$ by r[]s /&+  
9 robes flapp+ ab\t !m1 or tuck$ 9 above
 _! wai/s4 ,!re  7 s _m t ! cr[d look$  
blue & :ite--! color ( _!  dresses      
repeat+ ! sky 9 prose4 ,/ill1 ! l>g] "p 
7 mo/ly  nak$1 & _! legs & arms & backs 
made a great novelty to our  eyes1      
accu/om$ to no?+ b our %ip1 & ! enorm\s 
space1 empty  ( life1 :i* _h surr\nd$ u 
= days4 ,! muscles ( ! boatm5  /ood out 
%>ply on _! small frames4 ,!y _h almo/  
all--at lea/  ^? :o 7 "y--f9e wri/s &   
delicate h&s1 & a h&some  sett+ ( !     
neck4 ,! foot look$ broad1 ) toes v     
squ>e4 ,!y  7 excit$ly wait+ to help 9 !
 coal+ & unload+1 & soon we  saw !m beg9
 to "w1 c>ry+ great loads ) mu*         
good-humor$  *att]+4 ,ar\nd u play$ !   

smalle/ boats ) r[]s /&+ up  & scull+4  
,!n ! m>ket-boat came ru%+ to u1 its /&+
  r[]s b5d+ & ris+1 _! ?ighs r\nd+ &    
in/eps %>p5+1  :at small g>m5ts !y _h   
flutt]+ l sc>fs1 s t our fair           
mission>ies turn$ _! backs to ! sight4  
,illu/ration    ,two boys /ruggl+ at !  
great sculls 9 "o ( ! small boats 7     
call$ by u out ( ! cr[d1 & c>ri$ u (f to
 look at !  outgo+ /eam]1 :i* takes our 
mail1 & :i* add$ its own  confusion &   
its att5dant cr[d ( boats to all !      
animation on !  wat]4 ,delici\s & curi\s
 mom5t1 ?is fir/ s5se ( be+ free f  !   
big prison ( ! %ip2 ( ! pleasure (      
direct+ "o's own  c\rse2 ( n und]/&+ a  
^w ( :at "o he>s1 & yet (  gett+ at a   
mean+ ?r\gh e s5se2 ( be+ close to ! top
 (  ! waves on :i* we dance1 in/ead (   
look+ d[n ^u !m f !  tall %ip's sides2 (
 see+ ! small limbs ( ! boys burn+ yell[
  9 ! sun1 & notic+ h[ !y recall ! dolls
 ( _! own c\ntry  9 ! expression ( _!   
eyes2 h[ e little detail ( ! boat is    
diff]5t1 & yet s curi\sly ! same2 &     

return to ! fir/  s5sation ( feel+ :ile 
ly+ flat on ! bottom ( ! boat1 at !     
level ( our faces ! toss+ sky-blue wat] 
dott$ ) innum]able  orange copies ( !   
sun4 ,!n subtle influ5ces ( odor1 ! s5se
 (  some?+ v =eign1 ( ! pres5ce ( ano!r 
race1 came up )  ! smell ( ! boat4      
,illu/ration    ,we climb$ up ! side ( !
 big /eam] & f\nd ! ,doctor  !re1 :o    
told u t he _h be5 expect+ u = a :ole   
mon?2 s  t he soon took possession ( u1 
& we f\nd ourselves 9 ! hotel  laun*1 & 
at ! :>f1 & pass+ ! cu/om h\se & its    
(fic]s1  :o let ev]y?+ g ?r\gh quickly  
except my suspici\s wat]-color  blocks4 
,outside ( ! gate1 9 ! /reet1 we f\nd ! 
long-expect$  j9riki%a1 an arrangem5t t 
y "k probably z well z ,i d--a          
two-:eel$ p]ambulator or gig1 v small1 )
 a hood t is usually  l[]$1 & ) a man 9 
! %afts4 ,our fell[s 7 9 blue-black     
clo!s1 a big inscription on _! backs2 & 
!y wore apron-l  ve/s1 close-fitt+      
tr\s]s1 & broad /raw hats pois$ on _!   
heads4 ,b y "k all ab\t ^!2 & ,i h only 

to add t we 7  trundl$ (f to our hotel1 
along ! pretty quay :i* edges t "p  ( ! 
t[n1 pa/ ,european h\ses1 unlike ours1 &
 hav+ a c]ta9  "* :i* w probably appe> v
 commonplace lat]1 because x  is n      
beautiful1 b :i* is novel yet to u4 ,our
 hotel is also on !  quay1 j at a corn] 
:]e a canal breaks 91 & :]e we c see big
  walls & trees on ! o!r side4 ,our     
rooms op5 on ! wat]--t  same blue wat]  
spangl$ ) sun%9e & fad+ into sky4 ,!re  
m5-(-w> & /eam]s f> out2 picturesque    
junks sail+ pa/ rapidly1  flatt5$ out   
into m]e edges ( %ad[ & light aga9/ !   
sea &  ! sky1 _! great holl[ /]ns ) !   
rudd] f> inbo>d1 &  sails :i* are op5 at
 ! seams4 ,n f> f u 0 a little          
%>p-po9t$ boat ) a man fi%+1 8 big r\nd 
hat z important z  any "p ( ! boat4 ,x 0
 already late 9 ! day4 ,european *ildr5 
7 out ) _! ,japanese nurses2 f "t to "t 
a phaeton or a  curricle pass$ )        
,european occupants1 & ev5 9 ?is        
trem5d\s  heat ladies rode out on       
horseback4 ,b ! human be+s are n !      

novelty1 n ev5 ! ,japanese2 :at is      
absorb+ly new is ! light1  its :it5ess1 
its silv]y milk9ess4 ,we h come into x z
 ?r\gh an  op5 door aft] f\rte5 gray    
days ( ! ,pacific :i* end$ only at      
sunrise ?is v morn+4 ,& we look$ aga9 at
 all ! light outside1  f ! d9+-room1 :]e
 we lun*$1 :]e ! wait]s slipp$ ab\t  9  
black clo!s l ^? ( ! runn]s1 & :]e we 7 
jo9$ at  table by a =eign g5tleman )    
high *eek-bones1 yell[ face1 &  slant+  
eyes1 & dress$ 9 ! late/ ,european      
fa%ion ) high  coll>1 f\r-9-h& sc>f1 &  
po9t$ %oes4 ,he 0 v c\rte\s1  & manag$  
:at little ,engli% he us$ z skilfully z 
he dresses4 ,&  he gave me a t\* ( ! f> 
,ea/ 9 ! /ory ( 8 be+ "h2 =  he is "u a 
cl\d1 an amiable exile ^: return to 8   
native l&  might involve 8 be+ boil$ 9  
oil1 or o!r +5i\s =m ( dea?4  ,= well z 
he figur$ at lun*eon ) u1 ,i he> t he   
has be5  oblig$ to leave because ( 8    
hav+ poison$ too _m ( 8 gue/s  "o day at
 table1--=m] enemies ( 81--& because ( 8
 hav+  despat*$ ) ! sword ^? ^: dige/ion

 _h resi/$ 8 ef=ts  at conciliation4    
,h[ev] ?is may be1 8 extradition is     
dem&$2 to  :i* he objects1 invok+ ,we/]n
 ideas ( civilization1 & prote/+  t 8   
excesses h be5 m]ely political4 ,!n1    
late 9 !  aft]noon1 we saunt]$ out into 
! ,japanese qu>t]--walk+1 s t  we might 
m+le ) ! gray1 black1 & blue cr[d1 &    
respectfully  foll[$ by our j9riki%a m51
 :o sl[ly dragg$ our c>riages beh9d  !m1
 l grooms foll[+ _! ma/]s4 ,we /opp$ at 
little curio  %ops & b>ga9$ ov] mis]able
 odds & ends1 call+ up1 ,i feel  sure1 !
 unexpress$ contempt ( ! ,doctor1 !     
great collector (  preci\s lacqu]s2 b x 
is s amus+ to see ?+s z !y are1 &  n z  
!y %\ld be4 ,we w5t into a %[ :i* _h an 
enorm\s drap$  sign outside1 & :]e1 9   
unc]ta9 d>kness1 an old1 mis]able1      
di/ort$ dw>f play$ ! "p ( a spid] 9 a   
web1 to !  accompanim5t ( fi5di% music &
 ! declamation ( ! %[man4 ,!n  we l+]$  
outside ( a boo? 9 :i* a wre/l+ mat* 0  
go+ on1  b did n ent]1 & we saw ! big   
wre/l]s g 9 or come out1 _!  %\ld]s f>  

above ! heads ( a small] race ( m51 & we
 turn$ at  e mom5t to look at ! *ildr51 
_m ( :om are s pretty1 &  :o seem to h  
an easy "t ( x4 ,m5 c>ry !m 9 _! arms z 
wom5 d ) u1 & _m a little eld] si/]     
walks ab\t ) !  infant ( ! family slung 
beh9d h] mat]nal %\ld]s4 ,& !n !re  are 
curi\s comb9ations ( ,we/]n & ,ea/]n    
dress--r>ely  successful4 ,our hats &   
%oes & umbrellas--all made "h1 are us$1 
& our ugly %irts /iff5 out ! folds ( !  
s(t ,japanese robes2  b ! multitude we> 
_! usual dress & make no abuse ( hats4  
,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,kuruma4    ,we>i$ by
 ! novelty1 e detail ( :i*1 h[ev]1 0    
kn[n to u  be=e1 we walk$ back 9 ! :ite1
 milky sunset1 :i* 0 l a  brilliant     
twilight4                               
,,july #e4    ,we made our fir/ visit to
 t[n ye/]day2 t is to say1 we w5t to    
,tokio1 :i* is ab\t tw5ty miles (f4 ,(  
c\rse we took our  j9riki%as at ! door (
 ! hotel1 & pass+ ?r\gh ! wide          
,yokohama /reets1 saw ! semi-,european  
h\ses1 "s ) high g>d5  walls 9 :i* are  

small doors3 !re are sidewalks1 too1 &  
,european  %ops1 & ,colonial build+s1   
po/-(fice1 & telegraph (fice2 &  !      
,japanese kura1 or /oreh\ses--heavy     
tile-ro($ build+s )  black & :ite e>!n  
surfaces1 ! black poli%$ to a glaze1 z 0
  done ) ,greek & ,etruscan vases4 ,!y h
 deep w9d[s or doors1  recess$ l our    
safes1 ) a great air ( solidity1 :i*    
contra/s  ) t tempor>y wood5 /ructure1 !
 usual ,japanese h\se4 ,i came  ne> say+
 t ! little railway /ation is l ours2 b 
x is  bett] ?an mo/ ( ours1 ) neat      
arrangem5ts4 ,we ent]$ ! little  c>s2 ,i
 notic$1 9 ! ?ird class1 ,japanese curl$
 up on ! seats4  ,! grade is z level z a
 table1 ! l&scape is lovely1 & we saw  !
 %apes we "k s well 9 ! pr9ts--! curi\s 
%apes ( !  ,japanese p9es2 little       
temples on ! hillside2 & rice-fields )  
_! network ( causeways1 occasionally a  
horse or a peasant ?read+  !m4 ,! l& is 
cultivat$ l a g>d51 ! lotus leaves fill 
!  dit*es1 & "o or two p9k fl[]s are j  
out4 ,f "t to "t we  saw /ret*es ( blue 

sea4 ,& once1 = an in/ant1 z ,i look$ up
 into  ! hazy1 cl\d$ sky1 f> beyond !   
hills1 t 7 lo/ 9 ! mi/  into :i* !      
rice-field /ret*$1 ,i saw a pale1 cle>  
blue op5+ 9  :i* 0 an outl9e m di/9ct1  
some?+ v pure1 ! edge ( a  m\nta91 look+
 z if x belong$ to ano!r _w ?an ! dewy  
moi/  "o 9 :i* we are--! cone (         
,fusi-yama4      ,illu/ration3 ,,ca/le1 
,,& ,,moat ,,) ,,lotus4           99    
99       99       99       99    ,on    
pass+ ?r\gh ! /ation1 v mu* l ! o!r )   
its  v>i\s arrangem5ts = com=t &        
ord]1--fir/-1 second-1 &  ?ird-class    
rooms & s =?1--we met a cr[d ( j9riki%as
 )  _! runn]s1 or1 z my fri5ds tell me  
to call !m1 kuruma &  kurumaya1 e man   
clamor+ = patronage 9 ! usual way ( !   
hackman4    ,we select$ z a lead]       
,*ojiro1 :o speaks ,engli%--a little2 is
 a  travel$ man1 hav+ gone z f> z       
,con/ant9ople2 we>s !  old-fa%ion$      
queue1 flatt5$ =w>d ov] ! top ( 8 %av5  
head2  & ^: nak$ feet 7 to run ?r\gh !  
day ov] newly-macadamiz$  roads1 = :i* a

 horse w\ld ne$ to be well %od4 ,a      
little way f  u1 on ! squ>e1 /ood ! c> (
 ! tramway1 :i* runs z f> z  ,asakusa1  
to ! great popul> temples ( protect+    
div9ities1 ,kuwanon  & ,jizo1--& ,b5t51 
f ^: %r9e fl[$ "o day copp] co9s z  if f
 a f\nta91--:]e ,buddhi/ s]mons are     
prea*$ daily2 :i*  are full ( innum]able
 images1 pictures1 & ex-votos2 & :]e    
pray]-:eels1 duly turn$1 help$ ! wor%ip]
 to be free f  annoy+ s9s1 or to obta9 8
 desires4    ,h[ %all ,i describe our   
ride ?r\gh ! enorm\s city8 ,we 7 go+  f>
 across x to call on ,pr(essor ,f----1 !
 great au?ority on  ,japanese art1 & to 
be delight$ & in/ruct$ by him ?r\gh "s  
fragm5ts ( 8 collection4                
,illu/ration3 ,,at ,,! ,,well4    ,9 !  
fir/ /reet :]e ! tramway runs !re are   
semi-,european  faades to h\ses1 & 9 _! 
pila/]s ! ,ionic capital has at  l5g?   
made ! circle ( ! _w4 ,!n we took m     
,ori5tal &  n>r[] /reets1 ?r\gh ! qu>t] 
( ! gei-%a1 ! danc]s &  s+]s :o g out   
p]petually to put a f9i%+ t\* on        

ent]ta9m5ts4 ,at su* e>ly h\rs !y are ( 
c\rse unse54 ,:]e  h\ses seem$ m clos$  
?an usual s]vants 7 att5d+ to  h\sehold 
duties1 & we he>d ! occasional /rum ( a 
guit>4 ,!n  great /reets aga91 )        
innum]able l[ h\ses1 ! usual %ops1 l    
op5 %$s1 ) sw++ signs c>v$1 pa9t$1 &    
gild$1 or )  drap]ies ( black clo? m>k$ 
) :ite *>act]s4 ,m]*ants sat on  _! mats
 among ! cr[d$ goods1 girls at corn]s   
drew wat] f !  wells2 9 a n>r[] /reet ! 
black /reak ( a file ( bulls  peacefully
 dragg+ m]*&ise2 :]e ! cr[d 0 ?icke/ a  
black-lacqu]$ palanqu91 all clos$1 9 :i*
 0 %ut "s ob/9ate  adh]5t to anci5t     
fa%ions4 ,!n bridges & canals1 & great  
empty  spaces1 long :ite walls ) black  
cop+s1 & build+s t  cont9u$ ! walls1 )  
grat+s l ^? ( b>racks4 ,^! 7  !         
ya%ikis--inclos$ resid5ces ( pr9ces :o 7
 =m]ly oblig$  to sp5d "p ( ! ye> at !  
seat ( gov]nm5t ) small armies (        
reta9]s4 ,!n ! walls ( ! ca/le1 great   
slop+ ramp>ts (  irregul> blocks (      
masonry1 ab\t :i* /& /rangely twi/$     

p9e-trees1 :ile ! great moats ( cl\d$   
wat] are almo/ fill$  ) ! big leaves ( !
 lotus4 ,n[ & !n great gates ( gray wood
  & enorm\s doors4 ,on "s ( ! wide      
av5ues we met cavalry (fic]s  9         
,european co/ume1 correct 9 /yle1 mo/ ( 
! y\ng] )  /raggl+ mu/a*es1 long & ?91  
:5ce _! nickname (  horn-p\ts1 naturally
 connect$ ) t ( ! cats1 dev\r]s (  fi%1 
z ! gei-%a are call$4 ,ne> (ficial      
build+s we saw a  great deal ( black    
frock-coats1 & tr\s]s1 & spectacles4    
,ev]y?+ 0 se5 at a full run1 our runn]s 
dragg+ u at horse's  pace4 ,/ill x 0    
long be=e we rea*$ our de/9ation4       
,/reets  succe$$ /reets1 empty or full1 
9 desolate ,ori5tal we>isom5ess4 ,at    
l5g? we /opp$ at a little gate 9 a plank
 f5ce1 & ent]$ a va/  high space1 =m]ly 
a pr9ce's p>k1 at "o end ( :i* we saw   
trees  & hills1 & we came to !          
,pr(essor's h\se1 a little ,european    
/ructure4 ,my m9d is yet too confus$ )  
_m impressions to tell y  ( :at we saw t
 aft]noon & ev5+1 & :at 0 said2 all !  m

 t ! few beautiful pa9t+s we look$ at   
out ( ! great  collection lift$ me away 
f to-day into an indef9ite great pa/4 ,i
  dislike to use analogies1 b be=e ^!   
anci5t religi\s pa9t+s  ( ,buddhi/      
div9ities1 symbolical ( ! elem5ts or (  
protective  p[]s1 ^: worn surfaces      
conta9$ m>vels ( passionate delicacy &  
c>e fram$ 9 noble l9es1 ,i c\ld n help !
 recall ( :at ,i _h  once felt at ! fir/
 sight ( old ,italian art4           99 
99       99       99       99    ,we    
pass$ f ?is s5se ( exalt$ peace to      
plunge aga9 into !  cr[d$ /reets at     
night4 ,x 0 late2 we _h _m miles to g to
 cat*  ! la/ tra92 two additional runn]s
 _h be5 engag$ = ea*  kuruma--"o to pu%1
 "o to be h>ness$ 9 front4    ,!n began 
a furi\s ride4 ,m9e 0 ! la/ c>riage4 ,we
 7 :irl$  along ) w>n+ cries ( ,hai-hai6
 n[ into ! d>k1 !n into "s  op5+ light$ 
by />light1 9 :i* ,i c\ld see ! flitt+  
%apes  ( ! o!r runn]s & ( my companions4
 ,i rememb] ! creak+ (  _! c>riages1 !  
j]k+ ( !m ) ea* pull ( ! m52 !n our     

cross+ sudd5ly o!r p>ties light$ by     
lant]ns l ourselves1 !  lights fl>+ ^u  
yell[ faces & d>k dresses & black hair2 
!n  our turn+ "s n>r[ corn] & plung+ at 
full spe$ into light$  /reets cr[d$ ) p1
 ?r\gh :om we seem$ to cut our way4 ,mu*
  %\t+ ( our m51 & dodg+ ( wayf>]s )    
lant]ns & (  by/&]s :o m]ely turn en\gh 
to let u glide by4 ,!n "o ( my  runn]s  
at full gallop /ruck a po/ & 0 left     
beh9d2 ano!r 0  ga!r$ 9 someh[ )\t a    
/op1 & we tore ?r\gh ! city1 /ill  m    
cr[d$ z we came ne>] to our end--!      
railway /ation4 ,we 7  9 "t1 & we slept 
9 ! n[ famili> tra94 ,we rea*$ ! des]t$ 
/ation & 7 jogg$ peacefully to our      
hotel2 our m51 9 ,japanese  fa%ion1     
sleepily turn+ out ( ! way ( ! own]less 
dogs t lay  9 ! middle ( ! /reets4 ,& :5
 ,i awoke 9 ! morn+ ,i f\nd  t ! day's  
impressions _h fad$ 9 sleep to :at ,i   
tell y4      ,illu/ration3 ,,anci5t4    
,,july #f4    ,i h be5 ask+ myself :e!r 
x w\ld be possible to h  s5sations z    
novel1 to feel z p]fectly fre%1 ?+s ,i  

knew almo/  all ab\t be=eh&1 _h we come 
9 any o!r way1 or arriv$ f any  o!r     
qu>t]4 ,z x is1 all ?is ,japan is sudd54
 ,we h la/ be5  liv+ at home1 are %ut up
 9 a %ip1 z if box$ 9 ) our own         
civilization1 & !n sudd5ly1 ) no        
transition1 we are l&$ 9  ano!r4 ,& "u  
:at spl5dor ( light1 9 :at contra/+     
atmosph]e6 ,x is z if ! sky1 9 its      
v>iations1 7 ! great  subject ( ! drama 
we are look+ at1 or at lea/ its great   
*orus4  ,! beauty ( ! light & ( ! air is
 :at ,i %\ld l to  describe1 b x is     
almo/ l try+ to acc\nt = "o's own       
mood--l describ+ ! key 9 :i* "o plays4  
,& yet ,i h n  begun to pa9t1 & ,i dread
 ! mom5t ( beg9n+ to "w aga94  ,r h ,i  
felt l yield+ entirely to ! _s 9 :i* ,i 
came1  ! int5tion ( a re/1 ( a ba? = !  
bra9 9 "s wat]  absolutely ali54 ,a---- 
& ,i _h und]tak5 t we %\ld br+ no       
books1 read no books1 b come z innoc5tly
 z we c\ld2 ! only  compromise my keep+ 
a sci5tific ,japanese gramm>1 :i*1 be+  
anci5t & unpractical1 might be all[$1 = 

x w\ld leave me z  unready z on ! day ,i
 left4           99       99       99   
99       99    ,! ,doctor took u on     
,sunday aft]noon to 8 club--^: "n ,i ?9k
  means ! p]fume ( ! maple--to see & to 
li/5 to "s ,japanese  plays :i* are giv5
 9 ! club !at] built = ! purpose4  ,we  
w5t !re 9 ! aft]noon1 pass+ by ! ,%iba  
temples1  & our kurumas 7 drawn up at "o
 end ( ! build+s4 ,!re  ev]y?+ 0        
,japanese1 ?\gh ,i he> /ories ( ! o!r   
club &  its ultra-,european             
ways--br&ies-&-sodas1 s+le eyeglasses1  
etc4  ,h[ev] t may be1 on ?is side we 7 
9 ,japan )\t mi/ake4  ,we sat on ! /eps 
& _h our %oes tak5 (f1 accord+ to !     
,japanese fa%ion1 s z n to injure mats1 
& we c\ld he> dur+  ! op]ation long     
wail+s1 high notes1 & ! pi]c+ s\nd (    
flutes & /r+$ in/rum5ts2 ! curi\sly sad 
rhy?m m+l$ )  a backgr\nd ( high1 di/9ct
 declamation4 ,we walk$ 9 ) c>eful      
att5tion to make no noise1 =gett+ t 9   
our /ock+-feet we  c\ld h made none _h  
we wi%$1 & we f\nd ! ,doctor's place    

res]v$ = him & u1 & m>k$ ) 8 "n1 writt5 
l>ge4 ,o!r  l[ boxes1 ) sides no high]  
?an our elb[s z we sat on ! mats1       
divid$ ! slop+ floor d[n to ! /age4 ,!  
/age 0 a pretty  little build+ project+ 
into ! great hall f its long side4 ,x   
_h its own ro(1 & connect$ ) a long     
gall]y or bridge1 along  :i* ! actors   
mov$1 z !y came on or disappe>$1 9 a    
mann] new  to u1 b :i* gave a c]ta9     
natural sequ5ce & made a beg9n+  & an   
end1--a dramatic introduction &         
conclusion1--& add$ greatly  to !       
picture :5 ! magnific5t dresses ( /iff  
brocade dragg$  sl[ly along to ! cad5ce 
( ! music4 ,! boxes 7 mo/ly  occupi$1 & 
by a di/+ui%$-look+ audi5ce2 ! ,n1 z ?is
  op]atic act+ is call$1 be+ a ref9$1   
classical drama1 & look$  ^u diff]5tly f
 ! m or less disreputable !at]4 ,h5ce  !
 l>ge proportion ( ladies1 to :om ! !at]
 is =bidd54  ,h5ce1 also1 ow+ to its    
antiquity & ! "* ( its /yle1 a          
difficulty ( compreh5sion = ! g5]al     
public t expla9$ !  repeat$ ru/le ( !   

books ( ! op]a :i* mo/ ( ! wom5  held1  
^: leaves turn$ ov] at ! same mom5t1 j z
 ours us$ to  d at home :5 we 7 favor$  
by ,fr5* trag$y4      ,illu/ration3 ,n  
,,danc] ,,) ,,mask1 ,,repres5t+ ,,!     
,,sak ,,imp4    ,a quiet1 sleepy        
appreciation hov]$ ov] ! sc5e2 ev5 !    
devotees  ne> u1 _m ( !m old] p &       
belong+ to ! old rgime1  %[+ _! approval
 or disapproval ) re/ra9$ criticism4 ,i 
c\ld  see )\t turn+ my head ! expression
 ( ! face ( my neighbor1 a  =m] daimio1 
a man ( position2 8 face a ,japanese    
translation (  ! univ]sal well-kn[n     
ari/ocratic type--immovable1 fatigu$1 ) 
! droop+ "u lip4 ,beh9d him sat =m]     
reta9]s1 ,i  suppose--def]5tial1        
ins9uat+ rem>ks & judgm5ts1 to :i* he   
ass5t$ ) inimitable brevity4 ,/ill1 ,i  
?\ght t ,i c\ld  di/+ui%1 :5 he %[$ t ! 
y\?ful amateurs--= mo/ ( !  actors 7    
non-pr(essional--did n come up to a     
prop] /&>d1 t  8 memory w5t back to a   
long exp]i5ce ( good act+4 ,& s  cat*+  
are ! impressions ( a cr[d t ,i myself  

aft] a "t  believ$ t ,i recogniz$1 m or 
less di/9ctly1 ! tyro & !  ma/]1 ev5    
?\gh ,i only vaguely und]/ood :at x 0   
all ab\t4 ,=  ,i ne$ n tell y t !       
libretto w\ld h be5 /ill m  difficult = 
me ?an ! pantomime be=e me2 & v (t5 x 0 
b  pantomime1 ! actor mak+ ge/ures to ! 
accompanim5t ( music1 or  ( ! decl>ation
 ( ! *oragus1 :o told ! poetic /ory4    
,occasionally ^! movem5ts am\nt$ to a   
dance1 t is to say1 to  rhy?mic         
movem5ts--h5ce call$ ! ,n dance--to :i* 
emphasis 0  giv5 by ris+ & fall+ on ei!r
 foot1 & br++ d[n ! sole  ) a sudd5 bl[4
    ,!re 7 _m %ort plays1 mo/ly bas$ on 
leg5d>y subjects1  di/+ui%$ by gorge\s  
dresses1 & occasionally "s comic sc5es (
  dome/ic life4 ,! monotony ( impression
 0 too novel to me to become  we>isome1 
& ,i sat = sev]al h\rs ?r\gh ?is        
succession (  sep>ate /ories1 pati5t1   
except = ! new difficulty ( sitt+       
cross-legg$ on ! mats4 ,moreov]1 we _h  
tobacco to *e] u4 ,on our  arrival !    
noiseless s]vants _h br\ght to u !      

inevitable little  tray conta9+ !       
fire-box ) hot *>coal & ! little cyl9d] 
= a%es1 & tea & little sug>y balls2 &   
!n1 besides1  not)/&+ ! high-ton$ repose
 ( ! audi5ce1 !re 0 en\gh  to wat*4 ,!re
 7 ! envoys f ,loo ,*oo1 seat$ f> (f 9 !
 dim  light ( ! room1 dress$ 9 anci5t   
co/umes1 _! hair skew]$ up  on ! top ( !
 head ) a d\ble p9--grave & dignifi$    
p]sonages2 & a ,european pr9ce1 a       
,napoleonic pret5d]1 seat$  alongside1 )
 8 suite1 & ourselves1 ! only =eign]s4  
,! types  ( ! old] p 7 full ( int]e/1 z 
"o felt !m =m$ "u  o!r ideas ?an ^? (   
to-day4 ,& ?\gh !re 7 no beauties1  !re 
7 mu* ref9em5t & sweetness 9 ! faces ( !
 wom51 set  (f by ! simplicity ( _!     
dresses1 ( blacks1 & br[ns1 &  grays1 & 
dull violets1 9 exquisite fabrics1 = we 
7 9 an  atmosph]e ( good bre$+4 ,& ,i   
wat*$ "o ( ! "y ladies 9  front ( me1 ! 
eld] ( two si/]s1 z %e att5d$ to e      
little  want ( h] fa!r1 & ev5 to 8      
inconv5i5ces4 ,& n[ x 0 "t  to leave1   
?\gh ! p]=mance 0 /ill go+ on1 = we wi%$

 to  return 9 ! e>ly ev5+4 ,our %oes 7  
put on aga9 at ! /eps1  our umbrellas   
h&$ to u--= sun & ra9 we mu/ always h   
"o--& we pass$ ! ,%iba temples & took ! 
tra9 back =  ,yokohama4                 
,illu/ration3 ,,mod]n4                  
,,july #ab4    ,we are do+ no?+ 9       
p>ticul>1 hesitat+ v mu* z to :at our   
c\rse %all be4 ,"o ?+ is c]ta9--! break+
 out ( ! *ol]a  w affect all our plans4 
,ev5 ! consequ5t clos+ ( ! !at]s  %[s u 
h[ _m ?+s w be cut (f f u4 ,we sp5d mu* 
"t 9  su* idl5ess z bric--brac1 lett+   
ourselves g1 & tak+ ?+s z  !y come4     
,! ,doctor's k9dness is ) u all ! "t4   
,"o feels ! citiz5 (  ! _w t he is :5 he
 t\*es little details ( mann]s "h1 n[  z
 famili> to him z ^? ( ,europe4    ,i   
enjoy1 myself1 ?is drift+1 ?\gh ,a----  
is n s well pleas$1 &  ,i try to feel z 
if ! heat & ! novelty ( impressions     
ju/ifi$ me  9 idl5ess4 ,once only ,i 0  
tempt$ to duty1 h[ev]1 :5 we w5t to  !  
temples ( ,%iba & ,uyno1 :]e are ! tombs
 ( ! %oguns1  rul]s ( ,japan ( !        

,tokugawa l9e4 ,!y are all !re b ! two  
greate/1 ,iyyas & ,iymits1 :o lie at    
,nikko1 ! sacr$ place1 a  hundr$ miles  
away4 ,"h 9 ,tokio are ! tombs ( ! o!rs1
 & !  temples ab\t !m spl5did ) lacqu] &
 c>v+ & gold &  bronze1 & set among     
trees & g>d5s on ^! hills ( ! ,%iba &   
,uyno4    ,my dreams ( mak+ an analysis 
& memor&a ( ^! ar*itectural  treasures (
 ,japan 7 />t$1 z _m resolutions ( "w   
are1 by !  talk ( my companion1 8       
analysis ( ! !me ( _! ar*itecture1  & my
 feel+ a sort ( desire to rival him on a
 gr\nd = fair  competition4 ,b ,i d n   
?9k t ,i c\ld grasp a subject 9 su* a   
cle> & dispassionate & ma/]ly way1 ) su*
 natural ref]5ce to  ! pa/ & its impli$ 
comp>isons1 = ,a----'s hi/oric s5se     
am\nts  to poetry1 & 8 d$uctions &      
rem>ks always set my m9d sail+  into new
 *annels4    ,b ,i mu/ put ?is          
(f--c]ta9ly = to-day--:ile we discuss   
:e!r we %all make our visit to anci5t   
,kamakura & ! great bronze  /atue & !   
isl& ( no%ima1 or :e!r to put x (f until

 our  return f ,nikko1 & our see+ ! o!r 
%r9es ( ! %oguns  !re4 ,! ,doctor1 :o   
has j left ,nikko1 tells u ( its beauty 
9  ! e>ly summ]1 a few weeks ago1 & ,i  
feel all ! hott] z he talks  ( ! cold   
m\nta9 /reams :i* run by 8 h\se & (     
banks (  azaleas cov]+ ! high rocks4 ,& 
!n ! ,japanese prov]b says1  ,:o has n  
se5 ,nikko _c say beautiful4            
,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,lake ,,9 ,,uy,,no   
,,p>k4          ,,f ,,tokio ,,to ,,nikko
                                        
,july #bj1 #ahhf4    ,! *ol]a 0 ^u u1 & 
we decid$ to g to ,nikko & sp5d a  mon? 
!re1 ne> ! ,f----s'4 ,! ,docs coolness &
 its o!r *>ms1  0 to pilot u & in/ruct u
 by ! way1 & mu* ( !  miscellane\s      
in=mation t ,i %all give y has come m or
 less  f him4 ,late 9 ! morn+ we rode to
 ,tokio1 & lun*$ 9 ,uyno  ,p>k1 look+   
d[n on ! great pond & ! little temple   
:i* /&s  9 x1 & :i* y "k1 hav+ se5 !m on
 ! fans & color$  pr9ts4 ,!y 7 veil$ 9 !
 haze ( ! sunlight1 z if 9 a spr+  or   
w9t] mi/1 & ?r\gh ?is fog ( light %one !

 multitud9\s  little sp>kles ( ! ribs & 
swell+s ( ! lotus-pads lapp+ "o  ov]    
ano!r1 & rea*+ to f> /reaks ( cle>]     
wat]4 ,a d5s]  lightness "h & !re m>k$ !
 places ( ! fl[]s1 & a fa9t  odor came  
up 9 lazy :iffs4 ,! ro( ( ! temple seem$
 to be  support$ by ! moi/ure bel[4     
,above !re 0 no cl\d4 ,all ?+s  lay     
alike 9 ! blaze1 envelop$ 9 a :ite      
glimm] ( heat & wet1  & betwe5 ! bran*es
 ( ! trees ar\nd u ! sky 0 veil$ 9      
blue4 ,! locu/s hiss$ ) a crackl+ s\nd l
 t ( heat$  wood4 ,! ugly bronze ,buddha
 at ! corn] ( ! tea-h\se %one z if      
melt+ 9 ! sun4 ,!n came ! mom5t ( leav+ 
= ! /ation1  :]e1 ow+ to delays ( tra9s1
 we wait$ /ill long] 9 ! heat4 ,9  !    
cleanly wait+-room we look$ at !        
illu/rations 9 ! ,japanese  newspap]s1 &
 at ! la/ report ( ! wea!r bureau1 pr9t$
 9  ,engli% & fa/5$ to ! wall2 or we    
read a little 9 t morn+'s  edition ( !  
excell5t ,yokohama ,engli% pap]2 all ^! 
com=ts (  civilization be+ suppli$ by ! 
,road4 ,at l5g? ! noise ( hundr$s  (    

wood5 clogs1 worn by m51 wom51 & *ildr51
 clatt]$ ^u !  /ones outside & ann\nc$  
an end to wait+4 ,! tightly-clos$ tra9  
_h be5 bak+ 9 ! sun all day1 & we lean$ 
out ( ! doors on  ! sides & gasp$ =     
brea?4    ,our tra9 skirt$ ! great hill 
( ,uyno1 & its d>k %ad[1 :i*  did n q   
rea* u4 ,monum5ts & grave/ones1 gray or 
mossy1  blurr$ "h & !re ! gre5 wall (   
trees4 ,! ,doctor told u (  ! cool]     
spr+-"t1 :5 ! *]ry-trees ( ,uyno cov] ! 
gr\nd  ) a sn[ ( blossoms1 & ! :ole _w  
turns out to enjoy !m1 z  we d ! fir/   
sn[s ( w9t]4    ,b ?is is a lame        
comp>ison4 ,! ,japanese s5sitiv5ess to !
  beauties ( ! outside _w is some?+ mu* 
m delicate &  complex & contemplative1 &
 at ! same "t m natural1 ?an ours  has  
ev] be54 ,outside ( ,arcadia1 ,i "k ( no
 o!r l& ^: p  hang v]ses on ! trees 9   
honor ( _! beauty2 :]e families travel  
f> be=e ! dawn to see ! fir/ light t\* !
 new buds4 ,:]e  else d ! newspap]s     
ann\nce ! spr+ op5+s ( ! blossoms8  ,:]e
 else w\ld be possible ! *>m+ absurdity 

( ! /ory t  ,w---- 0 tell+ me ( hav+ se5
 9 *]ry-blossom "t "s old  g5tleman1 )  
capaci\s sak g\rd 9 h& & big roll ( pap]
 9  8 girdle1 seat himself bel[ !       
blossom-%[]s1 & look1 & dr9k1  & write  
v]ses1 all by himself1 ) no gall]y to   
help him8 ,if !re  is conv5tion 9 a     
tradition half obligatory2 & if we1     
,we/]n lov]s  ( ! tree1 d n q l !       
,japanese ref9em5t ( gr[+ !  *]ry m]ely 
= its fl[]s1 yet h[ delici\sly          
upside-d[n f u1  & h[ *>m+ is ! love (  
nature at ! f\ndation ( ! cu/om6    ,f !
 ru/l+ ( leaves & re*o+ ( trees we pass$
 into !  op5 c\ntry1 & into free air &  
heat4 ,9 ! blur ( hot air1  trembl+     
b5ea? ! sun1 lay plantations &          
rice-fields2 ! latt]1  va/ %eets ( wat] 
dott$ ) innum]able spikes ( gre54       
,little  pa?s rais$ above !m made a     
network ( irregul> geometry4            
,occasionally a crane spread a %9+ w+ & 
sank aga94 ,9 !  outside dit*es /ood up 
! p9k heads ( ! lotus above ! cr[d$     
pads4 ,at long int]vals small gr\ps (   

peasants1 m5 & wom51 dress$  9 blue &   
:ite1 knee-deep 9 ! wat]1 b5t _! backs  
at ! task  ( we$+4 ,! skirts ( _!       
dresses 7 caught up 9 _! girdles1  & _! 
arms 7 fre$ f _! loop$-back sleeves4    
,! ,doctor spoke to u ( ! suppos$       
unheal?9ess ( rice-plant+1  :i* makes   
life 9 ! rice-fields %ort1 9 a c\ntry   
:]e life is  n long4    ,we are told t !
 manur+ ( ! rice-fields ta9ts all !     
wat]s  = great di/ances1 & we are w>n$ n
 to dr9k1 )\t inquir+1  ev5 f ! cle>e/  
/reams4 ,n ev5 high up 9 ! m\nta9s %all 
we be safe2 = !re may be flat spaces &  
table-l&s ( culture  :i* dra9 into !    
picturesque wildness bel[4 ,we le>n t ) 
all  ^! h>d%ips ! rice-gr[]s !mselves _c
 always af=d ?is  /aple food ( ! c\ntry1
 = *eap] ?an rice are millet1 &         
buck:eat1 & ! plants & fungi t gr[ )\t  
culture4    ,contra/+ ) ! tillage we 7  
pass+1 isl&s ( close foliage  /ood up 9 
! dry pla91 or 7 reflect$1 ) ! cl\ds    
above1 9  ! mirror ( ! wet rice-fields4 
,occasionally a %r9e 0 visible  )91 & ! 

obligatory ,torii /ood at ! edge ( !    
grove1 or  )9 its fir/ limits4          
,illu/ration3 ,a ,,torii4    ,look+     
?r\gh a ,torii "o is sure to be 9 !     
direction ( some?+  sacr$1 :e!r x be    
temple or %r9e or holy m\nta94 ,nei!r   
clos5ess nor di/ance int]f]es ) ?is     
ideal int5tion1 & !  sacr$ ,fusi-yama is
 (t5 se5 a hundr$ miles away 9 ! sky1   
fram$  by ^! l9es1 built = ! purpose4   
,?is assemblage ( f\r l9es (  /one or   
wood or bronze is to me "o ( ! creations
 ( art1 l !  obelisk or ! pyramid4 ,mo/ 
impressive1 mo/ orig9al ( symbolic      
entrances1 :e!r d]iv$ f sacr$ ,india or 
f ! ance/ral  innoc5ce ( ,polynesia1 !re
 is some?+ ( ! beg9n+ ( man1  some?+    
inv5t$ :ile he liv$ ) ! birds1 9 ?is    
elem5t>y  por*1 ^: upp] l9e1 repeat+ !  
slope ( hill & wave1 fir/  embodi$ !    
curve t curls all upp] edges 9 ! build+s
 ( !  f>!r ,ea/4    ,& if inde$1 !      
,torii#a be no?+ b ! fir/ bird-p]*1 !n  
,i  c imag9e ! fa!r ( all peacocks      
spread+ 8 gigantic fan across  its b>s2 

or ,i may pref] to suppose x ! re/ = !  
disk ( !  sun-god1 ^: l[] curve is      
repeat$ by ! ,torii's upp] beam4        
99       99       99       99       99  
,sometimes !re 7 traces ( inclosure ab\t
 ^! woods2 sometimes  !y _h no edg+s b  
_! own beautifully-model$ cont\rs4 ,long
  ages1 respectful c>e1 sometimes       
=tunate neglect1 h made ( ^!  res]v$    
spaces types ( an ideal wildness1 = ^!  
are sacr$  groves1 & !y are protect$ by 
! div9e conta9$ )9 !m4    ,?is          
pres]vation ( a recall ( primeval       
nature1 ?is exemption ( !  soil f labor1
 )9 anxi\s & c>eful tillage1 is a note (
 ,japan  con/antly recurr+1 & a s\rce ( 
p]petual *>m4    ,not)/&+ ! m5 & wom5   
work+ 9 ! fields1 !re 0 a  c]ta9        
desolat5ess 9 ! l&scape1 & ,a---- made  
out its reason  m easily ?an ,i1 &      
recall$ t = miles & miles we _h  travel$
 )\t see+ any ( ! f\r-foot$ bea/s :i* ! 
,we/]n  m9d always associates ) pa/oral 
life & labor4    ,z ! ev5+ came on we   
cross$ a l>ge riv] & look$ d[n f !      

height ( ! new bridges ^u ! disc>d$     
f]ry-boats1 & ^u !  %ape ( a m fanta/ic 
"o t 0 nev] meant to sail--a p9e-tree1  
%ap$ & trimm$1 :i* spread its gre5 ma/ &
 sails 9 a g>d5 by  ! wat]4 ,f> away 7  
l9es ( m\nta9s & ! peaks ( ext9ct       
volcanoes4    ,at e /ation n[ ! c\ntry p
 ga!r$ to />e at ! novelty  ( ! tra92 we
 saw ! light+ up ( ! f>m-h\ses z we     
pass$2 9  ! doory>ds1 beh9d high h$ges  
rem9d+ me ( ,norm&y1 bonfires  7 be+    
made to keep (f mosquitoes3 !n temples &
 %r9es )  lights be=e !m1 & at eight    
o'clock on a fe/al night we came into   
,utsunomiya4    ,! /reets 7 full ( p    
c>ry+ lant]ns2 *ildr5 ran ab\t  toge!r1 
) little toy %r9es1 & ! :ole t[n 0 dr[n$
 9  noise4 ,we got into a ba%a1 a sort (
 omnibus1 atta*$ to two wild  horses1 & 
7 hurl$ ?r\gh ! cr[d$ /reets1 mu* z if  
c>ry+  ! mails1 ) app>5t disreg>d ( !   
lives & limbs ( !  inhabitants4    ,!   
hotel1 :]e we 7 expect$ & :]e ! ,doctor 
_h repres5t$  u z di/+ui%$ visitors1    
op5$ its :ole front1 9 a ,japanese way1 

to receive u1 = !re 0 no outside wall to
 ! l[] floor4 ,we 7  driv5 q into !     
h\se1 & beheld an entire h\sehold drawn 
up 9  l9e on ! plat=m1 :i* occupi$ a    
full half ( ?is l[] space4  ,! ,doctor  
did all t 0 "r1 :ile we rema9$ 9 amus$  
emb>rassm5t be=e our pro/rat$ ho/ & !   
kneel+ att5dants4 ,z  we sat helpless on
 ! /eps ( ! plat=m our %oes 7 tak5 (f1  
& 9 /ock+$ feet we 7 u%]$ ?r\gh ! cr[d &
 ! l[]  "p ( ! h\se1 ?r\gh ! prep>ations
 = pass+ travel]s1 !  smell & heat (    
wa%+ & cook]y1 & an inexpressibly       
outrage\s  odor1 ev5 = ?is l& (         
frightful smells1 evid5tly ( ! same     
nature z t ( ! rice-fields4    ,not)/&+ 
?is horror1 we f\nd1 on clamb]+ up !    
/eep little  /aircase ( d>k1 slipp]y    
wood1 bett] fitt$ to /ock+s ?an to      
boots1 a mo/ *>m+1 cleanly ap>tm5t ready
 = u3 ready1 ,i say1  b its ?ree big    
rooms1 :i* took all "o side ( ! c\rt1   
conta9$  no?+ b a draw+ hang+ 9 ea* room
 & a vase fill$ )  fl[]s2 9 ju/ice1 ,i  
ought to add a ,european table ( !      

simple/  make1 & ?ree ,european *airs4  
,"u !m 0 spread a piece ( t  r$ clo? :i*
 seems to h a fasc9ation = !            
,japanese--p]haps z  be+ ,european4     
,ev]y?+ 0 ( ! cleane/--wall1 floor1     
/airs1 tables2 ev]y?+  0 du/$1 wip$1    
rubb$1 poli%$4    ,x 0 too hot & we 7   
too tir$ to g out & see ! t[n1 noisy  ) 
! excitem5t ( a fe/ival4 ,! ,doctor     
direct$ ! prep>ation  ( a meal on a     
,japanese basis ( rice1 m+l$ & enliv5$ )
 !  cont5ts ( v>i\s cans2 & mean:ile ,i 
w5t d[n ano!r little  /aircase ( cleanly
 :ite wood1 at ! f>!r end ( our ap>tm5t1
 to  our little private ba?-room bel[4  
,?is 0 ab\t six feet squ>e1 & its       
furniture consi/$ ( a deep  lacqu] tray 
to lay clo!s 94 ,! ba?tub 0 sunk 9 !    
floor1 b  s t its edge rose high above !
 level ( ! room4 ,i _h decl9$  !        
honorable hot wat]1 :i* is ! ,japanese  
necessity1 & obta9$  cold1 aga9/ prote/4
 ,i _h yet to le>n ! luxury & real      
advantage  ( ! ,japanese hot ba?4 ,i    
clos$ my door1 b my w9d[ 0 op51 &  ?r\gh

 its wood5 b>s ,i c\ld see our opposite 
neighbors across !  g>d5 ( ! c\rty>d--a 
:ole family1 fa!r1 "m1 *ildr51 &  "y    
daught]--file d[n to ! big ba?-room at !
 corn]1 ^:  w9d[s 7 op5 to m9e4 ,i he>d 
!m romp & spla%1 & saw heads  & nak$    
arms %9+ ?r\gh ! /eam4 ,m$itat+ ^u !    
diff]5ces :i* make propriety 9 v>i\s    
places1 ,i jo9$ my fri5ds  at d9n] &    
li/5$ to :at ! ,doctor _h to say ^u !   
,japanese  indiff]5ce to nudity2 h[     
,japanese morals are n affect$ by !     
simplicity ( _! co/umes1 & t1 ( c\rse1  
to ! arti/ x  seems a great pity t ! new
 ideas %\ld be *ang+ ^! habits 9  a race
 s naturally law-abid+2 = ev5 ! gov]nm5t
 is int]f]+1  & en=c+ dress )9 city     
limits4 ,!n came ! "q :e!r  ?is be a    
rem9isc5ce ( ,polynesian ance/ry &      
simplicity1 or born (  climate &        
cleanl9ess4 ,&1 inde$1 all ,japan sp5ds 
mo/ ( its "t  wa%+1 s t ! v runn]s ba! m
 times a day ?an our f9e  ladies4       
,mean:ile ! s]vant-girls 7 spread+ = u !
 blue-gre5  mosquito nett+s1 put toge!r 

) b&s ( orange silk4 ,!y 7  slung by    
cords f ! corn]s ( ! beams1 :i* s]ve = a
 cornice1  & !y made a good-siz$ squ>e  
t5t 9 ! middle ( ! room4  ,inside1 our  
b$s 7 made up on ! floor1 ( well-wadd$  
cov]lets  fold$ "o ^u ano!r4 ,"o ( ^! ,i
 took = a pill[4 ,i h n  yet d>$ to try 
! block ( wood1 holl[$ out = ! nape ( ! 
neck1 :i* s]ves = a pill[ 9 ,japan1     
not)/&+ t x has a  pad to relieve its   
sev]ity--a pad ( pap] fa/5$ on1 & :i* y 
remove %eet by %eet z y want a clean    
pill[-slip4 ,i c und]/&1  h[ev]1 h[     
preci\s x mu/ be 9 a c\ntry :]e ! wom5  
keep1 day  & night1 undi/urb$1 ^?       
coiffures ( m>vel\s black hair1  gli/5+ 
) camellia oil1 ! "n ( :i* ,i l bett]   
?an its  p]fume4 ,f inside my nett+ ,i  
c\ld see1 z ,i 0 ly+1--= !  scre5s1 :i* 
made our w9d[s1 rema9$ wide op51--?r\gh 
!  topmo/ bran*es ( ! trees ( ! g>d51 ! 
,japanese family  opposite1 n[ end+ _!  
ev5+ meal4      ,illu/ration3 ,,our     
,,runn]4    ,laught] & *att]1 clatt]+ ( 
cups1 rap ( pipes aga9/ boxes1 a  "y man

 came 9 & b5t ov] "o ( ! wom5 seat$ ^u !
 floor2  ! girl repeat$ "s pray]1 )     
clapp+ h&s out/ret*$2 !  lights 7 put   
out1 all b ! squ>e &o1 or floor         
night-lant]n1  & !y drew _! scre5s4 ,i  
fell asleep1 to be wak$ ) a />t by  !   
wat*man1 :o1 e h\r1 pac$ ?r\gh ! g>d51  
/rik+ a  wood5 clapp]1 & imp]t95tly     
assur$ u ( ! h\r4           99       99 
99       99       99    ,?is we>y noise 
m>k$ ! int]vals ( a night ( illness1    
made worse  by nightm>es ( ! *ol]a1 f   
:i* we 7 fly+4 ,! e>lie/  dawn 0 made   
hide\s by ! unb>r+ & roll+ ( ! heavy    
amados1#b ! draw+ back ( ! inside scre5s
 7%ojis71 & !  clatt]+ ( clogs ov]      
pavem5t1 ?r\gh o!r p>ts ( ! h\se4 ,our  
,japanese family across ! way ,i c\ld   
he> at _! ablutions1 &1  lat]1          
tumultu\sly dep>t+ = e>ly tra9s2 & at   
la/ ,i slept 9  broad daylight4         
99       99       99       99       99  
,late 9 ! morn+ we ent]$ our fri5d !    
ba%a4 ,9 ! daylight  ,i notic$ t !      
horses wore some?+ l a ,dut* coll>1 & 7 

h>ness$ ) ropes4 ,two m51 "o ! driv]1 ! 
o!r ! runn+  groom1 sat on ! l[ front   
seat4 ,our trunks & bags & ,japanese    
baskets encumb]$ ! omnibus seats1 on :i*
 we /ret*$ our  sick & we>i$ bodies1 = !
 ,doctor himself 0 ill1 & smil$         
me*anically :5 ,i tortur$ him )         
que/ions4 ,we left t[n at a full        
gallop1 & at risk ( life = e "o 9 !     
/reets2 "o ( our  driv]s mean:ile bl[+  
wildly ?r\gh a horn1 to ! inspirit+ (  !
 horses & ! fright5+ ( ! ,japanese      
small-boy4 ,soon "o (  our m5 plung$ (f 
8 seat & began runn+ by ! horses 9 ! old
  ,japanese way--h]$it>y ) him1 = !y    
foll[ ! call+ f  g5]ation to g5]ation4  
,runn+ )\t pause & )\t sweat+1  he ?rew 
8 body back z if re/ra9+ 8 pace to t ( !
  horses4 ,at ! limits ( ! t[n1 9 full  
run1 he /ripp$ 8 upp]  g>m5ts & %[$     
himself tattoo$ at e visible po9t4      
,above !  d\ble /rip ( 8 bree*-cl\t1 a  
wat]fall1 a dragon1 & a noble  h]o made 
a f9e network ( blue & p9k on ! mov+    
muscles4    ,n[ ! road became heavy1    

wet1 & full ( deep ruts1 & our  mis]able
 ponies came to a /&/ill--& balk$4 ,!   
,japanese mildness  ( our driv]         
disappe>$4 ,he took to beat+ _! poor    
backs ) a  heavy bamboo cane1 :ile we   
remon/rat$ feebly1 regrett+ t we _h  n  
suffici5t /r5g? to beat him too4 ,!n he 
expla9$1  def]5tially1 t confusion seiz$
 him at be+ unable to keep 8  promise ( 
deliv]+ u to ,imai*i = ! appo9t$ h\r1 & 
,i felt  z if we _h be5 put 9 ! wrong4  
,imag9e ! diff]5ce _h he  be5--any "o b 
a ,japanese4 ,we turn$ aside f ! ma9 way
 into a  little dry side-pa?1 :i* l$ u  
into ! hills & moors4 ,z we got  among  
!m we left ! annoy+ odors ( !           
rice-fields & smell$ =  ! fir/ "t !     
fragrance ( wild roses1 look+ l ours1 b 
a  little pal]4 ,?is 0 ! fir/ ?+ :i*    
rem9d$ me ( home--!  roses t ! ,japanese
 d n seem to c>e =1 d n seem to  und]/&4
 ,) !m ! rose has no records1 no        
associations1 z )  u2 =1 once on ?is    
f>!r side ( ! g>d5 ( ,iran1 ! peony &  !
 *rysan!mum1 ! lotus & ! iris1 ! pea*1 !

 *]ry1 &  ! plum1 make up ! fl[]-poetry 
( ! extreme ,ea/4      ,illu/ration3 ,,9
 ,,! ,,great ,,av5ue ,,( ,,cryptom]ia4  
99       99       99       99       99  
,!n1 leav+ ! dry & sunny upl&s1 we ent]$
 a fam\s av5ue1  %ad$ = tw5ty miles by  
gigantic cryptom]ia trees #fj to #abj   
feet  high4 ,!y 7 plant$1 z an act (    
homage1 "s two c5turies ago1 by  "s     
mighty noble1 :5 x 0 decid$ to place at 
,nikko ! tomb ( !  great %ogun ,iyyas4  
,!y rise on ea* side ( ! sunk5 road1 f  
banks & m\nds1 ov] :i* /eps lead1 f "t  
to "t1 to  plantations & rice-fields    
beyond1 & to %r9es peep+ out among !    
trees4 ,9 side-roads above1 on ei!r h&1 
pass$ occasionally peasants  &          
pack-horses lad5 ) =age1 or ! bright %9e
 ( a peasant  woman's r$ skirt4 ,:]e an 
occasional habitation1 or two or ?ree1  
are  ni*$ 9 "s op5+1 ! tall columns ( ! 
great trees are  int]rupt$ by spaces    
fill$ ) cross$ bran*es ( ! wild] p9e2  &
 beh9d ^!1 outside1 sometimes !         
light-gre5 fea!ry mass ( a  bamboo      

grove4 ,aga9/ ! bank /ood l[1 ?at*$     
build+s2 ne> !m  ! great trees 7 (t5    
d[n1 or sometimes dy+2 an occasional    
hay/ack1 slic$ (f bel[ by use1 0 fa/5$1 
9 ?ick projection1  ar\nd "s small]     
tree4 ,once1 at a turn ( ! road1 ne> a  
build+  ) wide ro(1 pu%$ aga9/ ! corn]  
bank out ( a bas9 fr+$  ) iris1 sprang  
into ! air a little jet ( wat]4 ,ne> by1
 a  solit>y dit*] _h plac$ 9 a bamboo   
f5ce "s bright r$ blossom1  ) its /em & 
leaves1 app>5tly to *e] him at 8 "w4    
,! heavy road 0 be+ dit*$ on ea* side to
 c>ry (f ! soak+  wat]s1 & our we>y1    
mis]able horses broke d[n aga94 ,a---- &
 ,i  re/$ by go+ 9 advance1 & ,i        
exp]i5c$ ! new s5sation (  walk+ among !
 bamboo /ems1 l an insect among ! knott$
 /alks  ( a gigantic grass4 ,! /ill heat
 ( ! sun burn$ 9 great smoky  /reaks    
across our way1 spott$ by ! flight ( _m 
yell[  butt]flies4 ,!re 0 no s\nd (     
birds 9 ! high spaces above2 !  few     
peasants t we met slipp$ pa/ on _! /raw 
s&als1 _!  noiseless horses also %od )  

/raw2 occasionally a %iv] ( !  great    
spruces ov]head1 & f> beh9d u ! cries ( 
our grooms to  _! horses4    ,x 0 two   
o'clock :5 we gallop$ bravely1 z if )   
fre% horses1  into ! s+le long /reet :i*
 is ,imai*i village4 ,we 7 n[ on  high  
gr\nd1 "s two ?\s& feet above our po9t (
 dep>ture1 &  c\ld feel1 b n see cle>ly1
 9 ! blaze ( sunlight1 great  m\nta9s   
lo/ 9 great wet cl\ds4           99     
99       99       99       99    ,we    
/opp$ at ! village inn2 driv]s & runn]s 
7 sitt+ on !  /one b5* 9 front1 dr9k+   
tea1 :5 we drove up4 ,we sat d[n on !   
/raw-matt$ por* inside1 ! :ole front ( !
 build+ op51 &  drank mis]able1 h]by    
tea1 & ta/$ ! usual sweet balls ( sug>y 
/uff4    ,alongside ! tea-h\se1 9 "o ( !
 recesses betwe5 ! build+s1  we c\ld see
 ! runn]s ( kurumas be+ wa%$ (f & rubb$ 
d[n1  j z if !y 7 horses 9 a liv]y      
/able4 ,z !y /ood nak$1  _! companions  
p\r$ pails ( wat] ov] !m1 its br[n      
spread  cov]+ ! /one slabs4 ,"s ( !m1 9 
! por*1 lay on _!  backs1 o!rs prone1   

o!rs on ! side1 all ne> a kettle1 :i*   
hung  ov] a *>coal fire1 9 :i*1 p]haps1 
!y 7 heat+ sak4 ,"o on  8 back1 8 neck  
on ! wood5 pill[1 0 smok+4 ,! village   
itself  lay 9 hot1 clean repose1--n     
du/y1--! r[s ( build+s on ea*  side ( ! 
/reet irregul>1 b all ( ! same          
appe>ance4 ,mo/ (  ! fronts 7 op51 !    
goods all display$ outside ( ! walls1 or
  on ! floors1 innum]able pieces ( pap] 
hang+ ab\t ev]y:]e4 ,a  few m5 sat ab\t 
on ! por*es1 _! nak$ feet hang+ (f1 _!  
s&als on ! gr\nd bel[ !m1 ! inevitable  
umbrella by _! side4  ,mo/ ( ! village 0
 asleep 9 nak$ness4 ,! color ( fle% gl[$
  9 ! hot %ade2 br[n & sall[ 9 ! m51    
ruddy on ! brea/s (  ! wom5 & ! entirely
 nude bodies ( ! *ildr54                
,illu/ration3 ,,nikko-,,san4    ,& "h1  
n[1 we said good-by to ! ba%a1 & got    
into !  two-:eel$ baby wagon1 :i* !y    
call a kuruma4 ,"o man ran betwe5  !    
%afts1 & ano!r1 9 front1 0 fa/5$ to !   
cross-b> by a  long /rip ( clo? ti$ ab\t
 him4 ,! file ( our five wagons />t$  (f

 at a rapid trot--we _h two = our       
baggage--) ! ,doctor  ahead1 8 :ite     
helmet danc+ be=e u 9 ! sun4 ,f "u my   
umbrella ,i tri$ to /udy & occasionally 
to draw ! motions ( !  muscles ( our    
runn]s1 = mo/ ( !m 7 nak$1 except = !   
complicat$ /rip ar\nd ! lo9s--a slight  
developm5t ( ! e>ly  fig-leaf4 ,! vague 
recall ( ! antique t is de> to arti/s--!
  di/9ctly rigid muscles ( ! legs &     
?ighs1 ! rippl+ swell+s  ( !            
backs--reviv$ ! excitem5t ( pr(essional 
/udy & seem$ a  god-s5d to a pa9t]4 ,!  
broad1 curv$ hat1 lift$ by a pad ov] !  
head1 0 b an ,ea/]n v>iation1 n s f>    
remov$ f ! ,greek   ,greek3 petasos (   
,a!nian rid]s4 ,"s heads 7 b>e2  t is to
 say1 _! ?ick black ?at* 0 b\nd ) a long
  h&k]*ief1 :i* o!rwise hung on ! %\ld]s
 or danc$ ar\nd  _! necks4 ,n all 7     
nak$4 ,! y\nge/1 a h&some fell[1 _h  8  
tunic pull$ up above ! ?ighs1 & ! slope 
( 8 drap]y &  8 wide sleeves gave him   
all ! elegance ( a m$ieval page4 ,i f\nd
  x easi] n[ to /ruggle aga9/ heat &    

indol5ce1 & to make my  /udies z our    
runn]s ran along1 = we _h ent]$ aga9 !  
av5ue  ( ! great cryptom]ia4 ,we _h     
pass$ ! entrance ( ano!r1 :i*  9 old    
times 0 ! road travel$ by ! ,mikado's   
ambassador1 9 !  fif? mon?1 :5 he       
j\rney$ across ! isl& to c>ry (f]+s  to 
,iyyas1 9 8 tomb at ,nikko4 ,! big trees
 grew /ill tall] 9  ?is high] air1 _!   
enorm\s roots spread+ along ! embankm5ts
  9 great horizontal l9es & /ages (     
buttresses4 ,prolong$ wafts (  cool air 
blew ^u u f ! we/1 to :i* we 7 hurry+4  
,above  u spread a long av5ue ( %ade1   
high up & pale 9 ! blue4 ,& s  we got   
into ,nikko z ! sun 0 sett+ ) ! delici\s
 s5sation  t at la/ we 7 9 coolness & 9 
%ade4           99       99       99    
99       99    ,"r be=e u1 cross+ !     
sett+ sun1 0 ! isl& m\nta9 (            
,nikko-san2 small en\gh to be tak5 9 by 
! eye1 z x /ood fram$ by  great]        
m\nta9s1 :i* 7 almo/ lo/ 9 ! glitt]+ (  
wet  sunlight4 ,! m\nta9 ?rew its %ade  
on ! little village2 d[n its  "o long   

/reet we rode to ! bridge t spans !     
torr5t1 :i*1  jo9+ ano!r /ream1 gives   
,nikko ! look ( an isl&4 ,alongside  ?is
 bridge1 at a di/ance ( two hundr$ feet1
 crosses ! r$ lacqu]  bridge1 ov] :i* we
 are n all[$ to pass4 ,x is res]v$ = !  
family ,tokugawa1 ! =m] %oguns ( japan1 
^: ance/ors built !  great %r9es (      
,nikko1 & = ! ,emp]or on 8 occasional   
visits4 ,x  /&s support$ on a gigantic  
framework ( /one1 imitat+ wood1 !       
uprights be+ pi]c$ to all[ ! crosspieces
 to run ?r\gh1 aga9/  all ,european     
con/ructional pr9ciples1 b ) a beauty   
:i* is  ,japanese1 & a fitness prov$ by 
"t4      ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,wat]fall   
,,9 ,,our ,,g>d54    ,^! great po/s "u !
 bridge lean aga9/ :at seems ! wall  ( !
 m\nta92 ! rock f\ndation be+           
supplem5t$1 ev]y:]e t  a break occurs1  
by artificial "w4 ,"h & !re cascades    
fall ov]  natural & ov] artificial walls
 & gli/5 f> up ?r\gh ! trees  on !      
opposite side ( ! bridge4 ,z we rattl$  
ov] x1 we look$  d[n on ! ov]fl[+ long  

wood5 tr\gh1 :i* c>ri$ ! pure  wat]s ( !
 m\nta9 to ! village t we _h pass$1 & ^u
 !  torr5t bel[1 ^: limpid cle>ness 0   
made blue by mi/1 :]e !  w>m] air 0     
*ill$ by a coldness drawn f f>-up       
m\nta9s4 ,be=e  u /eps ( enorm\s wid?   
pass$ "u ! foliage & turn$ above 9  _m  
directions1 & !re on ! l[e/ /ep1 h]     
da9ty feet on /raw  s&als1 ^: /raps     
divid$ ! toes ( ! close-fitt+ ,japanese 
socks1 ) b>e ankles1 /ood our ho/ess1 9 
late/ ,european dress1  mo/ graceful    
contra/ to our own consci\sness ( be+   
jad$ &  dirty1 & to ! nak$ness ( our    
runn]s4 ,pant+ ) ! la/ run1  !y /ood at 
re/1 & lean$ =w>d aga9/ ! cross-b> ( !  
%afts1 ) muscles /ill trembl+1 cle>     
/reams ( sweat v>ni%+  _! bronze        
nak$ness1 & e hair pla/]$ ) wet on      
=ehead1  *e/1 & body4 ,j be=e !m ru/l$ !
 unrumpl$ />*$ spread  ( ! skirts ( !   
fair ,am]ican4 ,%e 0 summ]+ at ,nikko1  
&1  fri5dly ) ! ,buddhi/ cl]gy1 _h      
arrang$ t "o ( ! prie/s  %\ld let u h 8 
h\se1 & k9dly walk$ ) u to x1 a little  

way up 9 "o ( ! fir/ op5 spaces ( !     
m\nta94 ,aft] pass+  ! great outside    
fr+e ( trees we f\nd a l>ge cle> op5+1  
brok5  up by wall$ inclosures1 ! wall   
sometimes high & sometimes l[1 &  edg$  
by gutt]s ?r\gh :i* ! torr5ts ran4 ,^! 7
 ! =m]  resid5ces ( pr9ces1 :om         
etiquette oblig$ to wor%ip (ficially at 
,nikko4 ,a qu>t] ( a mile up we came to 
our own g>d51--) an  enorm\s wide wall  
or embankm5t ( /one1 "s tw5ty feet      
deep1--:i*  also _h be5 a pr9ce's1 & n[ 
belongs to ! little ,buddhi/ prie/  :o  
is our l&lord4 ,!re are two h\ses 9 !   
inclosure1 "o ( :i*  he lets to u4 ,ours
 is br&-new & two /ories high1 :ile 8 is
 old  & l[1 ) an enorm\s ro(1 & an arbor
 built out f ! eaves  & connect+ ) 8    
little g>d54 ,high beh9d 8 h\se rise    
rocks  & wall2 & on top ( !m are plant$ 
will[s1 p9es1 maples1 & !  paul[nia1 ^: 
broad leaves are "p ( ! imp]ial cre/4 ,a
 little  wat]fall tumbles ov] ! rocks & 
gives u wat] = our g>d5 &  = our ba?4 ,9
 our h\se we made ! acqua9tance ( ,kato1

 :o is to  wait ^u u4 ,a few m9utes lat]
 we 7 welcom$ by our l&lord1  dress$ = !
 occasion4 ,he conduct$ u to our rooms1 
&1 leav+ =  a mom5t1 return$ ) a *9a b[l
 t 0 cov]$ ) a napk91 &  conta9$        
sweetmeats :i* he told me are peculi> to
 ,nikko4    ,see+ t we 7 helpless ) !   
language1 he b[$ l[ & left  u to our ba?
 & to a survey ( our new qu>t]s4 ,we 7  
tir$1 sick1  mis]able1 we>y travel]s1   
hav+ gone ?r\gh a %ipwreck ( heat &     
fatigue1 b !re 0 a fasc9ation 9 feel+ t 
?is baby-h\se 0  ours1 t x 0 typical1 t 
on ent]+ we left our %oes out on our    
own ?re%old & 7 walk+ on ! s(t clean    
mats1 /ock+-to$2  t 9 a few m9utes we   
%\ld be /ret*$ on ^! z on a b$1 &  t    
,kato w\ld p\r out our tea4 ,our l[e/   
/ory1 :i* has a v]&a1  c be divid$ s z  
to make a s]vant's room & a hall beyond4
 ,9 an ,l  beh9d /ret*es out a wa%-room 
) a big dress] fix$ to ! wall1  "u :i*1 
?r\gh a tr\gh1 rolls a torr5t f !       
wat]fall2 &1  f>!r on1 is ! little squ>e
 ba?-room ) "o side all op5 to !  floor1

 :5 ! wood5 scre5 is drawn1 ?r\gh :i* we
 get light &  air1 & ?r\gh :i* ! box    
conta9+ burn+ *>coal is br\ght  f !     
prie/'s h\se to heat our ba?4 ,we h a   
little  /aircase--j ! wid? ( our        
trunk--:i* leads %>ply up to !  v]&a    
above1 f :i* we /ep into ,a----'s room &
 !n into m9e2  !y are sep>at$ by movable
 scre5s1 s t we c be ab\t z  private z  
if ! division 7 a *alk l9e4 ,b outside  
we h a  weal? ( mov+ wall3 fir/ ! pap]  
scre5s1 :i*1 :5 we wi%1 c  sep>ate u f !
 v]&a2 !n1 la/ly1 on its edge1 ! amado1 
or  wood5 slid+-doors1 :i* are ly+ n[ 9 
_! corn] box1 b :i*  lat] w be pull$ out
 & l9k$ toge!r1 & close ! op5 h\se  = ! 
night4    ,!n1 z we 7 ab\t leav+1 we    
solemnly plac$ a great ornam5tal        
revolv] be=e ! little god ( ,cont5tm5t  
:o sits ^u !  ,tokonoma--t mantelpiece  
:i* is at ! level ( my eye :5 ,i lie on 
! floor1 & :i* is ! ,japanese ideal seat
 ( honor1 b nev]  occupi$4 ,?is revolv] 
is left !re to appease a ,japanese      
conv5tional  fe> ( robb]s4 ,we w5t d[n 9

 ! twilight to our fri5ds1 & _h a  v    
,european supp]1 & sat on _! v]&a1 look+
 ?r\gh !  trees t[>d ! bridge1 9 a      
moonlight ( "m-(-pe>l2 & we 7  s sleepy 
t ,i c only suppose we mu/ h talk$ (    
home1 & ,i c  only rememb] our ho/      
clapp+ 8 h&s = lant]ns1 & ,kato lead+  u
 back1 ) ! light held l[1 & ! noise ( ! 
torr5ts runn+  "u ! little /one bridges 
t we pass$1 & our tak+ (f our  %oes on  
our own door-/ep1 & ! ?und] ( ! amado z 
,kato  roll$ !m out = ! night4          
#a ,! usual etymology ( ,torii is       
bird-p]*2 f ,tor1 a       bird4         
#b ,ra9-doors1 out] wood5 scre5s1 :i*   
close ! h\se at       night1 & roll 9 a 
groove4          ,,! ,,%r9es ,,(        
,,iy,,yas ,,& ,,iy,,mits ,,9 ,,! ,,holy 
,,m\nta9 ,,( ,,nikko                    
,july #be4    ,f :]e we are 9 ! ,holy   
,m\nta91 our fir/ visit w\ld be         
naturally to ! %r9e ( ! %ogun ,iyyas1 ^:
 extreme walls ,i see  among ! highe/   
trees :5ev] ,i look f our balcony ov]   
our little  wat]fall4    ,iyyas di$ 9   

#afaf1 hav+ f\ght1 he said1 n9ety       
battles &  eighte5 times escap$ dea?1   
hav+ almo/ de/roy$ ,*ri/ianity1 &  leav+
 8 family e/abli%$ z rul]s ( ,japan4 ,9 
ob$i5ce to 8  dy+ wi%es1 8 son &        
successor remov$ ! body ( 8 fa!r f  its 
re/+-place 9 ! s\? to ?is f9al tomb at  
,nikko4 ,"h1 9  #afag1 ) complicat$ &   
my/ic c]emonial1 he 0 buri$ & deifi$4   
,if y h no "w on ,japan ne> by to ref]  
to1 sub voce ,iyyas1 ,i  c tell y1      
briefly1 :at he did or :at he 01 ?\gh   
,i1 too1 h  no books at my h&4 ,he 0 a  
great man1 a pati5t wait] ^u            
opportunity1 :o at ! end ( ! sixte5?    
c5tury came ^u ! sc5e  ( a great civil  
w>1 !n fill$ by two protagoni/s1 !      
milit>y  rul]1 ,nobunaga1 & 8 lieut5ant1
 ,hidyo%i1 :o 0 to be kn[n  lat] z      
,taiko ,sama4 ,_! aim 0 to settle some?+
 m def9itely1  ( c\rse 9 _! favor2 &1 9 
fact1 ! dea? ( ! =m] & !  triumphant    
success ( ! latt]1 :o succe$$ him1 w5t  
f> t[>d  dispos+ ( _m cont5d+ claims1 & 
t[>d a cry/alliz+ ( !  feudal sy/em1 :i*

 _h gr[n ( c5turies ( civil w>4 ,?is is 
!  mom5t t we see reflect$ 9 ! annals ( 
! fir/ ,*ri/ian  mission>ies1 to :om !  
milit>y *iefs ( ,japan 7 alt]nately k9d 
or cruel4      ,illu/ration3            
,,portrait-,,/atue ,,( ,,iy,,yas ,,9    
,,c]emonial ,,dress4    ,:5 ,hidyo%i di$
 he _h gr[n to be ! ma/] ( ,japan2 he _h
 be5  made ,reg5t ( ! ,empire1 z a title
 ( honor1 = he 0 t & m  9 reality2 he _h
 become "o ( ! greate/ ( ,ori5tal       
w>riors1 &  _h begun life z a groom1 !  
son ( a humble peasant4 ,! "n (  ,taiko 
7,great ,gate7 he took l o!r reg5ts1 on 
retir+ nom9ally  f (fice1 b ) ! addition
 ( ,sama 7,"l7 x is appli$ to him  alone
 9 popul> memory4 ,naturally1 !n1 he    
believ$ 9 a possible  dyna/y orig9at+ 9 
him4 ,at 8 dea? he c\ld see1 z 8 greate/
  fe> = ! future ( ! "y son to :om he   
wi%$ to leave 8  p[]1 ?is man ,iyyas    
,tokugawa1 "l n[ ( _m prov9ces1 b :o  _h
 begun humbly1 & :o _h assi/$ him 9     
break+ _m enemies1  receiv+ a rew>d ) e 
success1 & consolidat+ mean:ile 8  own  

small] p[]s4 ,! dy+ ,taiko made         
complicat$ arrangem5ts to  secure !     
good-w ( ,iyyas1 & also to prev5t 8     
encroa*m5ts4  ,^! arrangem5ts1 includ+ &
 comb9+ ! ag5cies ( numb]s (  pr9ces &  
vassals1 _m ( !m newly ,*ri/ianiz$1 seem
 only !  m c]ta9ly to h =c$ on a        
position 9 :i* ,iyyas1 ) few  allies1 b 
) cle> aims & int]e/s1 took ! field     
aga9/ a  l>g] numb] ( pr9ces1 comm&+ m  
m51 b n unit$ 9 any  int5tion z fix$ z 8
 04 ,^! he defeat$ = once & all1 on a   
great battlefield1 ,skigah>a1 on "s day 
9 ,octob] 9 ! ye> #afjj4  ,x 0 ! greate/
 battle t ,japan ev] saw1 & "o ( !      
bloodie/--rem>kable = u because ( ! dea?
 ( ?ree ( !  ,*ri/ian lead]s aga9/      
,iyyas1 w>riors di/+ui%$ be=e 9 _m  w>s1
 :o c\ld n1 be+ ,*ri/ians1 take _! own  
lives 9 defeat1  z _! ,japanese         
traditions ( honor comm&$4 ,h5ce !      
victor _h  !m behead$--a %ameful dea?1 &
 !reby h]oic4 ,^! 7 almo/  8 only       
imm$iate victims4 ,iyyas wisely =gave1  
:5 x paid1 &  m]ely weak5$ ! beat51     

increas+ ! possessions b n !  p[]s ( 8  
adh]5ts2 & f9ally rema9$ 9 undisput$    
p[]1 )  great titles f ! ,mikado1 :o1   
?\gh poor 9 p[]1 0 /ill a  disp5s] (    
honors1 =1 z ) ! great] gods1 ! victrix 
causa  pleas$4    ,mean:ile ! protection
 ( ! son ( ! great ,taiko ,sama1 = :i*  
all ?is w> _h be5 suppos$ to gr[1 _h n  
be5 effect$1 & ev5  ?is "o ob/acle or   
rem9d] 0 to disappe> f be=e ,iyyas1 b  n
 = sev]al ye>s1 & only j be=e 8 dea?4   
,illu/ration3 ,,av5ue ,,to ,,temple ,,( 
,,iy,,yas4    ,he _h1 9 ,japanese cu/om1
 resign$ 8 app>5t p[] to 8 son1  = beh9d
 him he c\ld act m obscurely & ) less   
friction4 ,!n  began ! drama ( !        
ext9ction ( ,*ri/ianity2 sl[ly1 = _m    
reasons1 n ! lea/ be+ t sev]al ,*ri/ian 
pr9ces1 ) _!  vassals1 _h support$      
,iyyas 9 8 /ruggle4 ,& at l5g? ! son (  
,taiko ,sama1 ,hidyori1 indirectly      
connect$ ) ! ,*ri/ian side1 fell  be=e  
,iyyas4 ,8 /rong ca/le at ,osaka 0 said 
to h become a  place ( refuge = !       
p]secut$ & ! discont5t$1 ev5 to !  v    

,*ri/ians :om 8 fa!r _h cruelly         
p]secut$4    ,:i* 0 9 ! wrong & di/urb$ 
! wat]s1 ! wolf or ! lamb1 ,i  d n "k1 b
 only t 9 ,june1 #afae1 ! great ca/le 0 
attack$  by ,iyyas & 8 son 9 z bloody a 
battle z 0 ev] f\ght2 &  not)/&+ t = a  
mom5t victory hung 9 ! balance1 !       
,tokugawa ,luck prevail$1 ! ca/le took  
fire1 ?\s&s p]i%$1 &  ,hidyori & 8 "m   
disappe>$4    ,:e!r ,iyyas 0 ! au?or ( !
 code ( laws or rules at :i* he  is     
suppos$ to h work$ dur+ ^! ye>s ( wait+1
 ) ! aid  ( le>n$ s*ol>s1 to bequea? !m 
to 8 desc5dants = !  ma9t5ance ( ! ord] 
( ?+s he left1 ,i d n "k2 nor p]haps  0 
! in=mation ,i once _h ab\t !m at all   
accurate4 ,!y1 or  _! _s1 h[ev]1 s]v$ to
 guide ! nation = ! next two  hundr$ &  
fifty ye>s2 t is to say1 until ! second 
,commodore  ,p]ry came to ,japan1 ) !   
increas$ weight ( an outside _w mu*     
*ang$4      ,illu/ration3 ,,sket* ,,(   
,,/atue ,,( ,,iy,,yas ,,tokugawa4       
,mean:ile ! great man di$1 leav+ a great
 p]sonal fame beh9d him1  ov] & above ! 

p[]s he c\ld transmit4 ,he 0 buri$ "h1 z
 ,i  said4 ,! place 0 *os5 9 #afaf2 at !
 end ( ! same ye> !  build+s 7 begun1 & 
9 ! beg9n+ ( ! next ye> 7 p>tly         
complet$4 ,:5 ! fun]al procession       
arriv$1 9 n9ete5 days f  ,iyyas's =m]   
re/+-place1 amid great c]emonies &      
religi\s  rites1 ! title ( ,supreme     
,highness1 ,"l ( ! ,ea/1 ,great         
,inc>nation1 0 giv5 to ! h]o & rul] &   
son ( ! small laird  ( ,matsudaira4     
,:ile he 0 be+ ?us deifi$ ! p]secution (
 ! ,*ri/ians  increas$ 9 viol5ce1 pass+ 
into a hide\s delirium ( cruelty2  wip+ 
out its victims1 b unable to affect _!  
c\rage4 ,!re c be  app>5tly no          
exagg]ation ( ! suff]+s ( ! m>tyrs nor (
 !  /r5g? ( m9d %[n by !m--a c\rage &   
con/ancy ennobl+ to  ,japan4            
,hidetada1 ! son ( ,iyyas1 is buri$ at  
,y$do 7,tokio72 b ,iymits1  ! gr&son1   
has a temple & a tomb "h 9 ! =e/1       
alongside (  8 gr&fa!r's4    ,he succe$$
 to p[] 9 #afbc1 & liv$ & rul$ "s ?irty 
ye>s  m ) an en]gy wor?y ( ,iyyas1 &    

c>ri$ ! sy/em to  completion4 ,! laws   
kn[n z ! laws ( ,iyyas are sometimes    
made out  to be 84 ,^! laws1 bas$ on !  
old feudal habits1 & influ5c$  & direct$
 by ! great ,*9ese doctr9es (           
relation%ip & duties1  are n laws z we  
?9k ( law1 nor 7 !y to be publi%$4 ,!y  
7 to be kept secret = ! use ( !         
,tokugawa h\se2 to s]ve z  rules =      
conduct 9 us+ _! p[]1 s z to secure     
ju/ice1 :i*  is 9 return to secure p[]1 
t exi/s = its own end 9 ! m9d (  rul]s4 
,^! laws1 "s ( :i* are reflections1 or  
moral maxims1 or  ref]5ces to ! great   
man's exp]i5ce1 made out a sort (       
crim9al  code1--! relations ( !         
classes1--matt]s ( rank & etiquette1 &  
a me*anism ( gov]nm5t4 ,!y ass]t$ !     
supremacy1 & at ! same  "t de/roy$ !    
p[]1 ( ! ,mikado1 & by /rict rules (    
succession1 resid5ce1 & cont9u$         
possession b\nd up ! feudal  nobles4 ,!y
 reass]t$ ! great individual virtues (  
filial piety &  ( feudal loyalty1 &     
insi/$ on ! traditions ( milit>y honor4 

,! sword 0 to be ! s\l ( ! ,samurai1#c &
 ) x ^!  h c>ri$ ! national honor &     
intellig5ce 9 its peculi>  expressions4 
,full recognition 0 giv5 to ! tea*+1 ,?\
 %alt n lie b5ea?  ! same sky1 nor tread
 on ! same e>?1 ) ! murd]] ( ?y  "l4 ,! 
rights ( ! av5g] ( blood 7 admitt$1 ev5 
?\gh he  %\ld pay ! p5alty ( 8 life4    
,suicide1 :i* _h long be5 a ,japanese   
developm5t ( *ivalr\s  feel+ & milit>y  
honor1 0 /ill to be reg>d$ z purify+ (  
all  /a91 &1 = ! fir/ "t1 all[$ 9       
mitigation ( ! dea?  p5alty4    ,inde$1 
half a c5tury lat]1 ! =ty-sev5 ,ron9    
7wave-p--,samurai :o _h lo/ _! natural  
"l & _!  rights7 7 to die 9 glori\s     
suicide1 c>ry+ out ! feudal idea (      
fidelity4    ,y "k ! /ory probably2 at  
any rate1 y w f9d x 9 ,mit=d's  tales ( 
old ,japan4 ,x is a beautiful /ory1 full
 ( noble details1  tell+ h[1 by ! mean  
contrivance ( a c]ta9 "l1 ! ,pr9ce (    
,ako 0 put 9 ! wrong1 & 8 condemnation  
to dea? & confiscation  obta9$4 ,& h[1  
!n1 =ty-sev5 g5tlem51 fai?ful vassals ( 

!  dead "l1 swore to av5ge ! honor ( _! 
ma/]1 & = t  purpose to put aside all t 
might /& 9 ! way4 ,= ?is end !y  put    
aside all else !y c>$ =1 ev5 wife &     
*ildr51 & ?r\gh  e ob/acle pursu$ _!    
plan up to ! favorable mom5t :5 !y      
surpris$1 on a w9t] night1 9 8 palace1  
among 8 gu>ds1 !  object ( _! v5geance1 
^: suspicions _h be5 allay$ by long     
delay4 ,& h[ 8 decapitat$ head 0 plac$  
by !m ^u 8 victim's  tomb1 be=e !       
=ty-sev5 surr5d]$ !mselves to ju/ice1 & 
7  all[$ to commit suicide by h>a-kiri1 
& h[ !y h s9ce liv$  =ev] 9 memory (    
,japan4    ,^! laws1 !n1 de/roy$ no?+2  
!y reass]t$ c]ta9 ,japanese  traditions 
& cu/oms1 b made out1 ?r\gh _m details1 
!  relations ( dep5d5ce ( all classes ( 
society ^u ! %ogun1 z  vassal inde$ ( ! 
,mikado1 b supreme rul] :o held ! key ( 
all4  ,all ?is did ,iymits c>ry out1 z  
well z ! consequ5t seclusion (  !       
c\ntry2 ! only mann] ( avoid+ ideals :i*
 might cla% )  ^? ^u :i* ?is            
consolidation ( ! pa/ 0 bas$4 ,& to _m  

( ^! ideals1 to ! idea ( ! sacr$ness ( !
 family1 to !  idea ( subjection to !   
law ( ! rul]1 ,*ri/ianity1 by its ideal 
( m>riage1 by its di/9ctions ( ! duty to
 ,cs>1--to "n only a  few               
reasons1--might be f\nd an insidi\s     
dissolv5t4 ,!re=e1 if x  be necess>y to 
f9d a high motive1 ,iymits did :at he   
c\ld to  trample out ! rema9s (         
,*ri/ianity1 :i* 7 to expire1 a few     
ye>s aft] 8 dea?1 9 a f9al holocau/ z   
t]rible & glori\s z  ,n]o himself c\ld h
 wi%$ to see4    ,f t "t1 = two         
c5turies1 all w5t on ! same1 until !    
arrival ( ! =eign]s f\nd a sy/em s      
complete1 s int]lock$ &  rigid1 z to g  
to pieces ) ! break+ ( a few l9ks4    ,t
 break 0 suppli$ by ! necessity ( yield+
 to ! ,*ri/ian  & =eign dem& ( entrance1
 & 9 s f> ab&on+ ! old ways4    ,) ?is  
pro( ( weakness ! enemies ( ! ,tokugawa 
& ^? ( !  sy/em began to ass]t !mselves1
 circum/ances aid+1 & 9 #ahfh !  la/ ( !
 race resign$ all p[]s & retir$ to      
private life4    ,! details ( ! enorm\s 

*anges1 z !y foll[$ "o ano!r1 are  too  
_m & sudd51 & app>5tly too              
contradictory1 = me to expla9  fur!r4   
,ev5 n[ ,i repeat ?is defici5t summ>y ( 
! ,tokugawa /ory  only because ( wi%+ to
 recall :o !y 7 t h temples &  tombs    
ab\t u1 & to recall1 also1 t su* has be5
 ! end ( !  beg9n+ :i* is buri$ "h4     
,illu/ration3 ,,/able ,,( ,,sacr$       
,,horses4           99       99       99
       99       99    ,! approa* to !   
temple1 to :i* mo/ pa?s lead1 is ?r\gh a
 great  broad av5ue1 a qu>t] ( a mile   
long1 bord]$ by high /one walls1  above 
:i* rise high banks & high] trees4      
,betwe5 ^! d>k gre5  walls1 all 9 _! own
 %ade1--9 ! c5t] ( ! enorm\s pa? &  9 ! 
full light ( ! sky1--a brilliant torr5t 
ru%es d[n 9 a  groove ( granite1 hidd5  
occasionally "u ! road4 ,"h & !re  drop 
out f ! walls noisy columns ( cle>e/    
wat]4    ,9 ! di/ance beyond1 ?r\gh a   
mass ( clos] %ade1 made by two  r[s (   
d>k cryptom]ia1 t are plant$ on banks   
fac$ )  /ones1--= "h ! road divides into

 ?ree diff]5t grades ( asc5t  by enorm\s
 /eps1--%9e ! high :ite walls ( ! temple
 gr\nds1  edg$ ) a r$-lacqu]$ f5ce & a  
black ro($ gate ( r$ &  gold4 ,9 ! op5  
space be=e x1 ) wide roads div]g+ ?r\gh 
high walls1 cr[n$ ) sc>let f5ces1 /&s a 
granite ,torii1 "s  ?irty feet high1 ^: 
transv]se /ones are cross$ by a great   
black  tablet1 m>k$ ) ! gild$ div9e "n (
 ,iyyas4 ,on "o side a  five-/ori$      
pagoda1 graceful & tall1 c]ta9ly "o     
hundr$ feet high1  blood-r$ & gold 9 !  
sunlight1 & gre51 :ite1 & gold 9 !      
%ad[s ( its five r[s ( eaves1 rises free
 f ! trees ar\nd x  & s5ds a tall spe>1 
encircl$ ) n9e gild$ r+s1 into !        
unbrok5 sky4 ,b9d+s & edges ( copp]1    
bright gre5 )  wea!r+1 sp>kle on its    
black ro(s1 & f _! tw5ty corn]s  hang   
bells ( bright gre5 copp]4 ,above ! /eep
 /eps1 aga9/ !  :ite wall1 we pass ?r\gh
 ! fir/ gate4 ,x is recess$1 & two      
gigantic columns ( trees /& 9 ! corn]s4 
,two mon/]s (  unc]ta9 lion-=m occupy ! 
ni*es on ea* side4 ,f ! upp] side  ( !  

r$ pill>s1 z supports = ! engag$ l9tel1 
/ret* out !  gild$ heads (              
tapirs1--protectors aga9/ pe/il5ce1--(  
lions &  elephants1 & great bun*es ( !  
petals ( ! peony4 ,above1 !  ar*itrave &
 frieze are pa9t$ flat ) _m colors & )  
gold1  & ! ends ( ! _m beams :i* support
 ! ro(+ are gild$4  ,ev]y:]e1 ev5 to !  
ends ( ! bronze tiles ( ! black ro(1 !  
cre/ ( ,iyyas's family1 ! ,tokugawa1 is 
/amp$ 9 gild$ metal4    ,at ! inside    
corn] ( ! gate /&s a gigantic c$>1 said 
to h  gr[n to ?is height s9ce ! "t :5   
,iyyas c>ri$ x ab\t )  him 9 8 palanqu94
 ,opposite to ?ree r$ build+s1 :i* are  
/oreh\ses = ! memorial treasures ( !    
temple1 /&s1 clos] to  ! wall1 a *>m+   
build+1 mo/ly gray1--p>tly ow+ to ! we>+
  ( ! black lacqu] ) "t1--& decorat$ )  
c>v$ panels1 :i*  make a frieze or      
/r+-c\rse all ar\nd its sides4 ,above   
?is l9e (  gre51 r$1 blue1 :ite1 & gold1
 a l>ge space ( gray wood1 spott$  )    
gilt metal :]e ! framework ( ! out]     
beams is jo9$1  spreads up to ! p$im5t  

"u ! eaves1 :i* is all c>v$ &  pa9t$ on 
a gr\nd ( gre54 ,! heavy ro( above is ( 
black bronze  & gild$ metal & is spott$ 
) ! gold5 ,tokugawa cre/4 ,bel[  !      
color$ b&1 midway1 ! black wall has     
grat+s ) gold5  h+es1 = ?is delicate    
spl5dor is giv5 to a /able--! /able (  !
 sacr$ horse ( ! god ,iyyas4 ,! pati5t  
little cream-color$  pony has no look ( 
c>ry+ su* honors2 & ,i c sc>cely imag9e 
8  little =m gallop+ out 9 ! sil5ce ( ! 
night "u ! t]rible  rid]4               
,illu/ration3 ,,sacr$ ,,font4    ,a     
g5tle spla%+ ( wat]1 :i* m+les ) ! ru/l+
 ( !  trees & ! quiet e*oes ( ! pavem5t1
 comes f ! end ( !  c\rt :]e its edge is
 a desc5t fill$ ) high =e/ trees4 ,?is  
lapp+ s\nd comes f ! temple font1 a     
great wet mass ( /one1  look+ l solid   
wat]4 ,x has be5 s exactly balanc$ on   
its base  t ! cle> m\nta9 /ream ov]fl[s 
its sides & top 9 a  p]fectly fitt+     
liquid %eet4 ,?is sacr$ well-bas9 has a 
canopy )  great black bronze-&-gold ro(1
 support$ by :ite /one pill>s1  ?ree on 

ea* corn]1 t are set 9 bronze sockets & 
/rapp$ )  gild$ metal4 ,! p$im5t & !    
brackets :i* cap ! pill>s are           
brilliantly pa9t$1 & ! recess$ space    
bel[ ! curv$ ro(-beam  is fill$ ) palm-l
 curves ( c>v$ waves & w+$ dragons4     
,next  to ?is1 & at "r angles to x1 is a
 heavy bronze ,torii1 ?r\gh  :i* we g up
 to ano!r c\rt1 turn+ away f ! build+s  
we h  se54 ,on ! d>k surface ( ! ,torii 
gli/5 ! gold5 ,tokugawa  cre/s2 on !    
great tie-beam1 ! upp] pill>s1 & !      
c5tral  upright4 ,ne> u1 ! eaves ( its  
l[] ro( cont9u+ ! l9es (  ! wat]-tank   
pavilion1 is ! clos$ libr>y1 r$1        
delicately adorn$  ) color "u ! eaves1 &
 ) ! same heavy black ro(+ (  bronze    
dott$ ) gold :i* all ! build+s h 9 a    
heavy  monotony4 ,! /eps lead u to ano!r
 c\rt1 spott$ ) diff]5t  build+s1 among 
trem5d\s trees--a bronze pavilion ) a   
hang+  bell1 a bell t[]1 & a drum t[]1  
clos$ 9 ) slop+ walls (  r$ lacqu]1 & a 
l>ge lant]n ( bronze "u a bronze        
pavilion1  ^: curi\s1 ,european1        

semi-,go?ic details contra/ sudd5ly )   
all  ?is ali5 art1 & prove its orig9 a  
tribute f trad+ ,*ri/ian  ,holl& to !   
mortal deity wor%ip$ "h4 ,on "o side1   
:]e !  =e/ slopes d[n 9 sun & %ad[1 /&s 
a ,buddhi/ temple1 sole  survivor ( !   
fai? 9 ?is place1 n[ turn$ ov] to !     
(ficial &  native wor%ip4 ,! lattic$    
gold-&-black scre5s 7 all clos$1  except
 9 ! c5t]1 ?r\gh :i* we c\ld see ! haze 
& occasional  glitt] ( ! gold ( gods &  
alt> ornam5ts1 & ! pal5ess ( !  mats4   
,on its r$ v]&a /ood a "y ,buddhi/      
prie/1 :om our  companions knew2 a      
slight1 elegant figure1 a type ( mode/y 
&  ref9em5t4 ,f>!r back1 on ! o!r side (
 ! v]&a1 an old]  companion look$ d[n ! 
valley at "s girls ^: voices we c\ld    
he> among ! trees4      ,illu/ration3   
,,"y ,,prie/4    ,! ma9 entrance rises  
above ! high /eps to a little esplanade 
)  heavy rail+1 on ! level ( a high]    
embankm5t4 ,! c\rt t we  7 9 0 full (   
brok5 %ad[s f its own tall trees1 & f   
all  ?is accumulation ( build+s1        

r$-lacqu]$ & gild$1  black-&-bronze     
ro($1 spott$ & /a9$ ) moss & li*5s1 or  
glitt]+ "h & !re 9 _! _m metals4 ,long  
l9es ( light  trickl$ d[n ! gray trunks 
& made a light gray haze ov] all ^!     
miscellane\s treasures4 ,great lant]ns  
7toro7 ( /one1 capp$ )  gre5 & yell[    
moss1 metal ones ( bronze & iron1 /& 9  
files  toge!r "h & 9 ! l[] c\rt1 or are 
dispos$ 9 r[s along !  great /one wall1 
:i* is /reak$ by ! wea!r & spott$ )     
:ite & purple li*5s4 ,along its upp]    
edge runs ! r$-lacqu]$  wall1 heavily   
ro($1 ( ! cloi/] :i* surr\nds ! f>!r    
c\rt  above4 ,its face is panel$ betwe5 
! metal-fa/5$ beams & po/s  ) two r[s ( 
deep c>v+s ( innum]able birds & trees & 
waves  & cl\ds & fl[]s4 ,all ^! are     
pa9t$ & gild$1 z are !  frieze above & !
 int]vals betwe5 ! gild$ raft]s4    ,on 
all ?is space1 & on ! great :ite gate1 !
 ,gate ,magnific5t1  ! full sun         
embroid]$ ! r$ & :ite & color$ surfaces 
)  millions ( /it*es ( light & %ad[4    
,! gate1 or triumphal ar*1 is a         

two-/ori$ build+ ) heavy  bronze-til$   
ro(1 capp$ & edg$1 l all ! re/1 ) gild$ 
metal1 & spott$ ) ! gild$ cre/ ( !      
,tokugawa4 ,its front  t[>d u rises 9 ! 
well-kn[n curve1 %ad[+ a p$im5t1 full ( 
pa9t$ sculpture4 ,eight :ite pill>s     
embroid]$ ) delicate reliefs  support ! 
:ite l9tel1 :i* is emboss$ ) great div9e
 mon/]s  & /rapp$ ) gild$ metal4 ,9 !   
ni*es on ea* side are seat$  two        
repellant pa9t$ images1 inside ( :ite   
walls1 :i* are trellises  ( deeply-c>v$ 
floral ornam5t4 ,^! figures are w>riors 
on gu>d1  9 anci5t & ,japanese co/ume1  
arm$ ) b[s & quiv]s ( arr[s1  ^: :ite1  
wr9kl$1 & crafty faces look no welcome  
to ! intrud]1  & recall ! cruel1 d\btful
 look ( ! gu>dian /atues ( foxes  t     
protect ! entrances ( ! primitive %r9es 
( ! l&-god  ,in>i4 ,! f>-project+ :ite  
capitals are ! half-bodies (  lion-l    
mon/]s ) op5 m\?s & /ret*$-out paws4    
,above ^!1  bel[ ! c>v$ balcony :i* m>ks
 ! second /ory1 ! cornice is  made ( a  
wild]ness ( t5fold brackets1 black      

lacqu]$ & patt]n$  ) gold1 & f ea* ( !  
t5 highe/ ones a gild$ lion's head      
fr[ns ) n>r[$ eyes4    ,! balcony is "o 
long set ( panels--( little panels c>v$ 
&  pa9t$ on its :ite l9e ) *ildr5 play+ 
among fl[]s4 ,above1  aga91 z _m :ite   
pill>s z bel[2 along _! sides a wild    
fr+e  ( ramp+ dragons & ! po9t$ leaves (
 ! bamboo4 ,?is "t !  pill>s are cr[n$ )
 ! fabul\s dragon-horse1 ) gild$ ho(s   
dropp+ into air1 & l5g?y processes (    
horns rec$+ f> back into  ! upp]        
bracket+s ( ! ro(4 ,^u ! c5t] ( !       
:ite-&-gold  l9tel1 s delicately c>v$ ) 
waves z to seem smoo? 9 ?is  delirium ( 
sculpture1 is /ret*$ betwe5 two ( !     
mon/] capitals  a great :ite dragon )   
gild$ claws & gigantic protrud+ head4 ,b
  all ^! bea/s are tame if comp>$ ) !   
wild army ( dragons t  cov] & p !       
innum]able brackets :i* make ! cornice &
  support ! complicat$ raft]s "u ! ro(4 
,ti] ^u ti] hang  f>!r & f>!r out1 l "s 
great mass ( vampires ab\t to fall4  ,!y
 are gild$2 _! jaws are lacqu]$ r$ f>   

d[n into _!  ?roats1 aga9/ :i* _! :ite  
tee? glitt]4 ,f> into ! %ade  spreads a 
nightm>e ( fr[n+ eyebr[s1 & po9t$ fangs 
&  out/ret*$ claws ext5d$ t[>d !        
intrud]4 ,x w\ld be t]rible  did n "o   
feel ! coldness ( ! unbeliev+ imag9ation
 :i*  p]haps m]ely copi$ ^! duplicates (
 e>li] t]rors4      ,illu/ration3       
,,details ,,( ,,bases ,,( ,,cloi/]      
,,walls1 ,,inn] ,,c\rt4    ,s x is1 at  
lea/1 9 ?is bright1 reasonable morn+    
light2 b ,i c  fancy t late 9 autumn    
ev5+s1 or 9 w9t] moonlight1 or light$   
by dubi\s tor*es1 "o might believe 9 !  
?reats ( ^! bl9k+  eyes & gr9n+ jaws1 & 
fe> t ! gold5 t]rors might cease  cl++  
to ! gold5 beams4 ,x is /eady+ to ! eye 
to meet at la/  ! pla9 gold-&-black     
*eck] patt]n ( ! ends ( ! f9al  raft]s  
bel[ ! ro(1 & to see aga9/ ! sky        
peaceful bells l  inv]t$ tulips1 ) gild$
 clapp]s = pi/ils1 hang+ f !  corn]s ( !
 great bronze ro(4    ,& z we pass ?r\gh
 ! gate we are made to see h[ ill om5 0 
turn$ f ! ,luck ( ! ,tokugawa by an     

evil-av]t+ pill>1 :i*  has its patt]n   
c>v$ upside d[n z a sacrifice ( o!rwise 
f9i%$  p]fection4    ,i notic$ also t a 
*ildi% realism has furni%$ ! l[] mon/]s 
( ! gate ) real bri/les = _! di/5d$     
no/rils2 & ?is  trifle recalls aga9 !   
ta9t ( ! unbeliev+ imag9ation1 :i*      
insi/s ^u small po9ts ( tru? z a sort ( 
legal protection = its  fail+ 9 ! great]
 ones4    ,)9 ?is ?ird cloi/]$ c\rt :i* 
we n[ ent]$ is an inclos$  t]race1 "s   
fifty y>ds squ>e4 ,inside ( its walls   
are ! oratory  & ! f9al %r9e1 to :i* we 
c pass ?r\gh ano!r small] gate1  ?is "t 
) l[] /eps4 ,! base ( ! t]race1 :i*     
makes !  level ( ! inn]mo/ c\rt1 is cas$
 ) l>ge blocks ( cem5t$  /one4 ,above x 
is a f5ce or wall ) heavy ro( & project+
 gild$  raft]s4 ,great black brackets   
support ! ro(4 ,betwe5 !m all is  c>v$ &
 color$ 9 birds & fl[]s & leaves1 almo/ 
real 9 !  %ad[4 ,betwe5 ! decorat$      
/r+-c\rses ! wall is pi]c$ )  gild$     
scre5s1 ?r\gh :i* play ! lights & d>ks1 
! colors &  ! gild+ ( ! %r9e inside4 ,at

 ! v bottom1 t\*+ ! /one  pl9?1 c>v$ &  
pa9t$ sculptures 9 high relief project &
 ca/  ! %ad[s ( leaves & birds ^u !     
brilliant granite4    ,beyond ?is       
inclosure & ! %r9e )9 x ! c\rt is       
abruptly  end$ by a l(ty /one wall1 high
 z ! temple ro(1 & built into !  face ( 
! m\nta94 ,f its v edge ! great slope is
 cov]$ )  tall trees t look d[n ^u ?is  
bas9 fill$ ) gild+ &  lacqu]s1 ) c>v+s &
 bronze1 ) all t is mo/ artificial1     
delicate1 labor$1 & transitory 9 ! art (
 man4    ,x is 9 ?is contra/1 insi/$ ^u 
) consummate skill1 t lies  ! secret    
beauty ( ! art ( ! m5 :o did all ?is4 ,!
 v  lavi%ness ( f9i% & ( detail1 !      
heap$-up exagg]ations (  ref9em5t &     
civilization1 br+ out ! m ! simplicity &
 quiet  ( ! nature ab\t !m4 ,up to ! v  
edges ( ! c>v+s & !  lacqu]s gr[ ! li*5s
 & mosses & small ?+s ( ! =e/4 ,!  gild$
 temples /& hidd5 9 ev]la/+ hills &     
trees1 op5 above  to ! upp] sky :i*     
lights !m1 & to ! *ang+ wea!r )  :i* _! 
mean+ *anges4 ,no?+ c\ld recall m       

completely !  lessons ( dea?1 ! p]man5ce
 ( *ange1 & ! transitor9ess (  man4     
,we w5t up ! /eps ( ! recess$ gate1 :i* 
repeats ! =m]  !me ( :ite & gold & black
 9 =ms ( an elegance t t\*es  ! limits (
 good ta/e4 ,its heavy black ro(1 ^: f\r
 ridges are  cr[n$ by long bronze       
dragons & crawl+ lions1 op5s 9 a high   
curve  on ! front & sides to %[ "u ! b5t
 :ite-&-gold ridge-beams  a p$im5t      
/rapp$ & int]sect$ by spaces ( small    
c>v+s1 :ite  & t9t$1 reliev$ by r$      
p]p5dicul>s ( beams4      ,illu/ration3 
,,detail ,,( ,,cloi/] ,,walls1 ,,inn]   
,,c\rt4    ,:ite & gold %9e 9 ! great   
brackets & ! recesses ( !  raft]s4 ,bel[
 ! :ite frieze1 c>v$ ) _m small figures 
(  ,*9ese /ory1 ! pill>s & ! l9tel are  
inlaid 9 _m c>v$  woods1 ornam5ts (     
dragons1 plants1 & diap]$ patt]ns on !  
:it5$ gr\nd4 ,! op5$ doors repeat ! same
 fa9t tones ( wood1  & ( :ite & gold1 & 
( gild$ metals4 ,! walls1 :i* are op5   
at ! base1 are m]ely lattice scre5s4 ,_!
 exquisite fl[]$  patt]ns fluctuate )   

gild$ acc5ts ( :ites1 gre5s1 lav5d]s1 & 
blues4      ,illu/ration3 ,,l9tel1      
,,bracket ,,capital4    ,! gate inside  
is1 !re=e1 no?+ b an ornam5t$ trellis1  
made  /ill light] by contra/ ) ! solid  
:ite doors1 trellis$ at top1  b ^: l[]  
panels are exquisitely embelli%$ )      
inlaid c>v$  woods & *isel$ gold5 metal4
 ,we took (f our %oes1 & asc5d$ !       
bronze-cov]$ /eps ( ! oratory & %r9e1   
:i* come d[n f !  r$-lacqu]$ v]&a1 beh9d
 ! f\r c>v$ :ite pill>s ( !  desc5d+    
por*4 ,great :ite dragons ) spiky claws 
project f !  pill>s1 & crawl 9 & out ( !
 d\ble transom4 ,9 ! %ad[ (  ! ro( gold5
 mon/]s hang f ! complex brackets4 ,!   
friezes &  b&s ( ! temple face are fill$
 ) c>v+1 delicate z emboss$  tape/ry1   
:ile ! panels1 deeply cut into auspici\s
 =ms ( birds  & fl[]s1 c>ry full color &
 gold f> up into ! gold5 raft]s4        
99       99       99       99       99  
,all recesses & op5+s are fill$ )       
half-realities1 z if to  sugge/ a dread 
or a delici\s int]ior1 z fl[]s might    

pass ?r\gh  pal+s1 or great bea/s1 types
 ( p[]1 might %[ great limbs ?r\gh      
conf9+ b>ri]s4 ,! long build+1 inde$1 is
 a great framework1  /rongly m>k$1      
dropp$ on a solid base1 & weight$ d[n by
 a heavy  ro(+4 ,! :ite pill>s or po/s  
:i* divide its face & corn]s  /& cle>   
betwe5 ! black-&-gold lattic$ scre5s1   
p>tly lift$1  :i* make almo/ all its    
wall4    ,/rips ( ! sacram5tal :ite pap]
 hang f ! l[] l9tel  aga9/ ! gold5 %ade 
( ! int]ior4 ,inside1 pale mats cov] !  
black-lacqu] floor4 ,exquisite pla9 gold
 pill>s1 recall+ ,egyptian  %apes1      
divide ! gild$ c5tral walls4 ,"h & !re  
on ! gild$  tie-beams curv$ l9es (      
em]ald-gre5 or crimson1 l t5drils1 m>k  
) exquisite sobriety a few *amf]$       
cutt+s4 ,on ei!r side ( !  long room    
7fifty feet7 are two recesses ) l>ge    
gold panels on :i*  symbolic =ms are    
freely sket*$1 & c>v$ inlays (          
emblematic  birds fill _! f>!/ walls4   
,_! ceil+s are c>v$1 inlaid1 &  pa9t$ ) 
imp]ial fl[]s1 my/ic birds1 & fly+      

figures1 & !  p]vad+ cre/ ( ! ,tokugawa4
 ,= ^! 7 ! wait+-rooms ( !  family1 &1 z
 ,a---- rem>k$1 ! impression is t ( a   
pr9cess's  exquisite ap>tm5t1 z if !    
,t>t> t5t _h gr[n into great]  fixity1 &
 _h be5 t\*$ by a fairy's w&4           
,illu/ration3 ,,inside ,,! ,,cat        
,,gate--,,gate ,,to ,,! ,,tomb4    ,all 
0 b>e except = an occasional sacr$      
mirror1 or hang+ gild$  ornam5t1 or !   
hang+ pap]s ( ! native wor%ip2 & ?is    
abs5ce  ( ! ,buddhi/ images & implem5ts 
( wor%ip left cle> & di/9ct  ! s5se ( a 
p]sonal resid5ce--! resid5ce ( a div9iz$
 _s1  n unlike ! "o t he 0 us$ to 9     
life4    ,ev5 m1 on ! outside ( ! build+
 ! curv$ /one base1 l a  great p$e/al1 )
 pi]c$ ni*es fill$ ) fl[]s c>v$ &  pa9t$
 betwe5 ! great brackets t support !    
v]&a1 makes !  temple seem z if only    
deposit$ = a "t1 h[ev] long t "t may    
be4    ,we m]ely look$ at ! c5tral      
passage1 t1 divid+ ! build+1  leads d[n 
& !n up to ! %r9e itself1 & wait$ = ! "t
  :5 we %all get fur!r p]mission1 & ,i  

%all be all[$ to sket*  & photograph4 ,z
 = me1 ,i 0 we>i$ ) ! pleasure ( !      
endless detail2 = ev5 n[1 ) all my talk1
 ,i h be5 able to note  b a little ( :at
 ,i c rememb]4    ,we )drew1 put on our 
%oes aga9 at ! gate1 & turn$ bel[ to  ! 
ea/ side ( ! c\rt4 ,we pass$ ! ,hall (  
,p]fumes1 :]e  inc5se 0 once burn$ :ile 
! monks *ant$ pray]s 9 ! c\rt1 z  !y did
 :5 ,iyyas 0 buri$4 ,we pass$ ! ,hall ( 
! ,sacr$  ,dances1 ^: op5 front makes a 
l>ge1 %ady1 dim /age1 ) a great  r$     
rail+ on its project+ edge4 ,)9 x mov$ a
 :ite %ad[1 !  figure ( a woman-danc]4  
,& !n we came to a :ite-&-gold gate1    
inside ( ! ro($ cloi/] wall4 ,above !   
op5 door t leads to x  sleeps a c>v$    
:ite cat1 9 high relief1 said to h be5 !
 "w (  a fam\s left-h&$ sculptor1       
c>p5t]1 & ar*itect4 ,its cauti\s  re/   
may n h be5 s f> f ! habits ( ! liv+    
,iyyas1 to  ^: tomb1 f>!r on1 ?is is !  
entrance4    ,fram$ by ! gold & :ite ( !
 gate & ( ! half-op5$ door  rise ! /eps 
built into ! hillside & all c>pet$ )    

brilliant  gre5 mosses4 ,! /one rail+s1 
:i* = two hundr$ feet high] up          
accompany ! /eps1 are also cu%ion$ ) ?is
 gre5 velvet1 & our  /eps 7 z noiseless 
z if ^? ( ! :ite cat h]self4 ,all is    
gre51 ! d>k trees desc5d+ 9 sunlight to 
our "r & ris+ on  ! bank to our left1   
until we rea* an op5 space above1 ) a   
bank (  rocky wall inclos+ ! cle>+4     
,"h is ! small f9al %r9e1 & beh9d x a   
/one esplanade ) a  /one f5ce1 )9 :i*   
/&s1 9 ! extreme ( co/ly simplicity1  ! 
bronze tomb ( ,iyyas4 ,a l>ge bronze    
gate1 ro($ 9 bronze1 (  app>5tly a s+le 
ca/+1 ) bronze doors1 closes ! entrance4
  ,be=e ! monum5t1 on a l[ /one table1  
are ! ,buddhi/  ornam5ts--! /orks1 !    
lotus1 & ! lion-cov]$ vases1 all (      
brass & ( great size4    ,! tomb itself 
is ( pale gold5 bronze1 9 =m l an       
,indian %r9e3  a dom$ cyl9d] surm\nt$ by
 a great project+ ro( :i* rises f  a    
neck+ t sep>ates & connects !m above--! 
ro( a f9ial 9  ! %ape ( a =k$ flame4    
,five bronze /eps1 or bases1 support ?is

  emblematic comb9ation ( ! cube1 !     
cyl9d]1 & ! globe4    ,! cre/ ( !       
,tokugawa1 t5 times repeat$1 seals !    
door ^u !  burnt a%es ( ! man :o        
cry/alliz$ ! pa/ ( 8 c\ntry = m  ?an    
c5turies1 & left ,japan z ,p]ry f\nd x4 
,all 8 precautions1  all 8 elaborate    
political cons]vatism1 h be5 scatt]$ to 
!  w9ds ) ! ,luck ( ! ,tokugawa1 & !    
hat$ =eign] leans 9  sightsee+ curiosity
 ^u ! rail+ ( 8 tomb4      ,illu/ration3
 ,,tomb ,,( ,,iy,,yas ,,tokugawa4    ,b 
! solemnity ( ! re/+-place _c be brok54 
,x lies ap>t  f all associations (      
hi/ory1 9 ?is extreme ( co/ & ( ref9$   
simplicity1 9 face ( ! surr\nd+ p[]s (  
nature4 ,!re is "h  no defiance ( "t1 no
 app>5t attempt at an equal p]man5cy2 x 
is  l a c\rte\s acceptance ( ! et]nal   
peace1 ! et]nal  no?+ness ( ! tomb4     
,we lean$ aga9/ ! /one rails & talk$ (  
,iyyas--( 8 good  nature1 ( 8 habit (   
*att+ aft] battle1 ( 8 fraudul5t        
pret5sions to great desc5t2 & ( ! dead5+
 influ5ce ( !  ,tokugawa rule1 ( its    

belittl+ ! classes ^: en]gies 7 !  true 
life ( ! c\ntry4 ,we recogniz$1 inde$1 t
 ! rul]s (  ,iyyas's "t might h p]ceiv$ 
! dang]s ( *ange = s  impressionable a  
race1 b none ( u ask$ :e!r ! loss (     
hundr$s  ( ?\s&s ( lives ( c\rage\s     
,*ri/ians _h be5 made up 9 !  /r5g? ( ! 
rema9+ blood4      ,illu/ration3        
,,entrance ,,to ,,! ,,tomb ,,(          
,,iy,,mits4    ,f> away ! s\nds (       
pilgrims' clogs e*o$ f ! /eps ( di/ant  
temples2 we he>d ! runn+ ( _m wat]s4    
,above u a few cr[s1  frequ5t]s (       
temples1 spott$ ! light = a mom5t1 & _! 
cries  fad$ ) !m ?r\gh ! bran*es4 ,a    
great1 heavy1 ugly cat]pill>  crept     
along ! mossy edge ( ! balu/rade1 l !   
fre% inc>nation  ( a s\l :i* _h to beg9 
x all anew4         #c ,! ,samurai1 !   
entire w>rior class ( ! feudal days2    
!re=e1 also1 ! g5try4                   
,,iy,,mits      ,we 7 told by our good  
fri5ds t ! temple ( ,iymits1 !  gr&son (
 ,iyyas1 f> less pret5ti\s ?an ! %r9e ( 
!  gr&fa!r & f\nd]1 w\ld %[ u less ( !  

defects :i*  accompani$ our enjoym5t (  
ye/]day4 ,! successors ( ,iymits 7      
patrons ( art1 syb>ites1 ( ^? born to   
enjoy :at _! ance/ors  h s[n4 ,! end ( !
 sev5te5? c5tury has a peculi> turn )   
u1 a some?+ ( %[ & decad5ce1 ( luxury & 
want ( morals2 &  ! same m>ks belong to 
x ev5 9 ,japan4 ,inde$1 ,i feel 9 all ! 
,tokugawa spl5dor some?+ n v old1 some?+
 :i* rem9ds me  t ?is 0 b ! day ( my own
 great-gr&fa!r2 a "t ( re/  aft]        
turmoil1 ( e/abli%$ sov]eigns on v>i\s  
scales1 (  full-bottom$ wigs1 ( great   
c\rtl9ess1 ( great exp5ses 9 big &      
little ,v]sailles4 ,i miss ! s5se (     
antiquity1 except z all true art        
connects ) ! pa/1 z ! ,greek has expla9$
 :5 he said t !  ,p>!non look$ old !    
mom5t x 0 done4           99       99   
99       99       99    ,! temple (     
,iymits is1 inde$1 *>m+ & ( fem99e      
beauty1  complete1 fitt$ into ! %ape ( !
 m\nta9 l jewels 9 a  sett+4 ,f ne> ! r$
 pagoda ( ,iyyas's gr\nds a wide av5ue  
leads1 all 9 %ade1 to an op5+1 n>r[$ up 

at its end to a wall &  gate1 :i* m]ely 
seem a natural entrance betwe5 ! hills4 
,!re are  great walls to ! av5ue1 :i*   
are embankm5ts ( ! m\nta9s4 ,f  !m at   
int]vals f\nta9s spla% into ! torr5ts at
 ea* side1 &  ov]head are ! great trees 
& _! ?9 vault ( blue %ade4 ,!  fir/ gate
 is ! usual ro($ "o1 r$1 ) gild$ raft]s 
& heavy  black bronze tiles1 & ) two r$ 
muscul> giants 9 ! ni*es (  ! sides4    
,its relative simplicity acc5tuates !   
lovel9ess ( !  fir/ long c\rt1 :i* we   
ent] on its n>r[e/ side4 ,its bord]s    
seem  all natural1 made ( no?+ b ! /eep 
m\nta9 sides1 fill$ )  v>ieties (       
leafage & ! columns ( ! great c$>s4 ,^! 
indet]m9ate edges give x ! look ( a     
valley %ut at ea* end by !  gate we h   
pass$1 & by ano!r f> (f disguis$ by     
trees4 ,?is  dell is pav$ 9 "p1 & )     
hidd5 c>e laid out ) small] trees4  ,d[n
 ! /eep hillside1 a cascade trembles    
?r\gh em]ald grass1 "p  lo/1 "p f\nd    
aga91 f "s place :]e1 indi/9ct among !  
trees1 ! jaws ( a great bronze dragon   

dis*>ge its fir/ wat]s4 ,a  simple tr\gh
 collects "o rill & s5ds x into ! l>ge  
/one cube  ( a tank1 :i* x brims ov] &  
!n disappe>s4    ,! little pavilion ov] 
?is well is ! only build+ 9 !           
inclosure4 ,x is m elegant ?an t (      
,iyyas1 ) its twelve  columns1 ?ree at  
ea* corn]1 slop+ 9 m decid$ly1 _! :ite  
/one %afts socket$ 9 metal bel[ &       
fillet$ ) metal above1  melt+ into !    
c>v$ :ite ar*itrave4 ,9 ! same way !    
c>v+s  & ! blue & gre5 & r$ & violet ( !
 entablature melt 9 !  reflections "u ! 
%ad[ ( ! heavy black-&-gold ro( ) f\r   
gables4 ,f "u ! ceil+1 & hang+ bel[ !   
l9tels1 flutt]  _m color$ & patt]n$     
squ>es ( clo?1 memorials ( rec5t        
pilgrims4      ,illu/ration3 ,,look+    
,,d[n ,,on ,,! ,,wat]-,,tank1 ,,or      
,,sacr$ ,,font1     ,,f ,,! ,,second    
,,gate4    ,z we turn to ! highe/ side (
 ! c\rt on ! left & asc5d  sl[ly /eep1  
high /eps to a gorge\s r$ gate above our
 heads ^:  base we _c see1 ! great c$>s 
( ! opposite side are ! real  monum5ts1 

& ! little wat]-tank1 ^u :i* we n[ look 
d[n1 seems  no?+ b a little alt> at !   
foot ( ! m\nta9 =e/4 ,! gate1  :5 we    
look back1 is only a frame1 & its upp]  
/ep only a balcony  f :i* to look at !  
high picture ( trees 9 %ad[ & sunlight  
across ! n>r[ dell :i* we c only j feel 
b5ea? u4    ,! great r$ gate has two    
giant gu>dians ( r$ & gre51 &           
innum]able bracket+s = a cornice1 all   
outl9$1 & confus$ all  ! m by /ripes (  
r$ & gre5 & :ite & blue4                
,illu/ration3 ,a ,,prie/ ,,( ,,iy,,mits 
,j beh9d ! gate1 z if x l$ to no?+1     
rises aga9 ! wall (  ! m\nta92 !n we    
turn at "r angles t[>d a great          
esplanade1  lo/ at its edges 9 trees1 f 
:i* aga9 ! =e/ w\ld be all !  picture 7 
x n t f>!r back ^u ! hill rises a high  
wall1  ) a plat=m & l(ty /eps1 & ! c>v$ 
r$-&-gold face ( a  cloi/]1 ) ano!r /ill
 ri*] gate ( a r$ lacqu]1 ^:  suff]+ by 
"t has made x m rosy1 m fl[]-l4    ,up  
^! /eps we w5t1 ! di/ant trees ( !      
m\nta9s asc5d+  ) u1 & we re/$ 9 !      

r$-&-gold %ade4 ,above u ! gold         
brackets ( ! ro( 7 reflect$ back1 9     
light & d>k1 ^u !  gold ar*itrave1      
adorn$ by ! great c>v$ peonies1 r$ &    
:ite1 &  great gre5 leaves :i* /ood out 
) deep und]cutt+4 ,f !  flut$ r$ columns
 project$ great gold5 tapirs' heads &   
paws1  /reak$ ) r$ l ! bloom ( tulips4  
,! gild$ metal sockets &  jo9+s & ! fa9t
 model$ reliefs ( ! wall1 all ( dull    
gold1  look$ gre5 aga9/ ! r$ lacqu]4    
,beyond1 ! inn] l9tel 0  gre51 l        
mala*ite1 aga9/ ! sunny gre5 ( ! =e/4   
,its  *amf]$ edge reflect$ 9 gold !     
lights & %ad[s beyond1 &  aga9/ ! same  
gre5 trees /ood out ! long heads &      
trunks ( !  tapir capitals 9 r$ & gold4 
,?r\gh ?is framework ( r$ & _m-color$   
gold we pass$ into !  inn] c\rt1 made   
into a cloi/] by walls & n>r[ build+s1  
ri* 9  r$ lacqu] & black & gold4 ,z be=e
 ) ,iyyas1 s also )9  ?is inclosure1 is 
ano!r rais$ ^u a base fac$ ) great      
blocks (  granite1 frett$1 spott$1 &    
spla%$ ) :ite & purple li*5s4  ,!       

sun-embroid]$ wall or f5ce t edges x is 
black ) a  bronze-&-gold ro(2 its       
trellises are ( :ite1 edg$ ) gold2 z    
usual1 b&s ( c>v$ & color$ ornam5t      
divide s z almo/ to  pi]ce its face2 &  
its beams are capp$ ) jo9t+s ( *isel$   
metal4 ,! c5tral gate spots joy\sly !   
long l9e ( black & gold  & color &      
bronze1 ) impo/s ( :ite c>v+1 fram$ 9   
rosy  lacqu]1 & ) gold pill>s & a gold  
l9tel1 ^u :i* is spread a  great :ite   
dragon1 & ) a high gold p$im5t1 divid$  
by recesses  ( gold5 ornam5t on         
ultram>9e1 & ) gold5 doors frett$ ) a   
fairy filagree ( gold5 ornam5t4         
,?r\gh ?is lovely gate1 ) an exquisite  
inlaid ceil+ ( pe>l &  gold & walls (   
c>v$ & color$ trellises1 we pass to !   
ma9  %r9e1 only j beh9d x4    ,"h aga91 
less pret5se ?an ) ,iyyas1 & great] & m 
?\ghtful elegance4 ,! long :ite c>v$    
columns ( ! portico run  /raight up to !
 brackets ( its ro(--except :]e1 to     
support !  cross-beam ( ! transoms1     
project r$ lions' heads & paws1 look+  l

 great coral buds4 ,! entire ar*itrave (
 ! build+ is divid$  into a succession (
 long friezes1 /epp+ f>!r & f>!r out1  l
 a cornice1 until !y meet ! gold5 ro(4  
,only a few gold  brackets support !    
highe/ gold5 beam--c>v+s1 color1 &      
delicate  /amp+s ( ! lacqu] embroid] !  
gold ) a bloom ( color4 ,!  gold doors  
look l jewel]s' "w 9 heavy filagree4    
,all )9 0 quiet1 9 a gold5 spl5dor4     
,?r\gh ! small op5+s  ( ! black-&-gold  
grat+s a fa9t light f bel[ left all !   
gold5 int]ior 9 a summ] %ade1 )9 :i*    
glitt]$ on lacqu]  tables ! gold5       
ut5sils ( ! ,buddhi/ c]emonial4 ,f !    
c(f]$  ceil+ hangs ! metal balda*91 l a 
preci\s lant]n's *a9  )\t a lamp4       
,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,! ,,?ird ,,gate ,,( 
,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,iy,,mits1    ,,look+ 
,,t[>d ,,! ,,f\r?4      ,illu/ration3 ,a
 ,,prie/ ,,at ,,iy,,mits4    ,! faces ( 
! prie/s :o 7 !re 7 kn[n to u1 ! eld]'s 
anxi\s & e>ne/1 ! y\ng]'s recall+ an    
,italian monsignore4 ,"o  ( !m 0 read+  
by ! uplift$ grat+ & rose to greet u1 & 

to  help to expla94 ,we ent]$ ! n>r[    
passage :i* makes ! c5t]1  ?r\gh ^:     
return+ walls project1 9 a curi\s       
ref9em5t (  inv5tion1 ! gold5 eaves ( ! 
inn] build+ beyond4 ,grat+s :i*  7 c>v$ 
& gild$ trellises ( exquisite design    
gave a cool1  unc]ta9 light4 ,we pass$  
out ( a trellis$ door on to ! black     
lacqu]$ floor ( a v]&a1 & !n sat a:ile 9
 a simple room )  our ho/s to look at   
temple manuscripts & treasures1 & at !  
op5  palanqu9 :i* once br\ght "h ! dead 
,iymits--n r$uc$ to  a%es1 z 8 gr&fa!r  
,iyyas1 b wrapp$ & cov]$ up 9           
innum]able lay]s ( co/ly & pres]v+      
v]milion4 ,we pass$ into  ! corridor    
beh9d ! build+ & look$ at ! picture     
hang+ on  ! wall1 :i* faces ! m\nta9 & !
 tomb1 9 :i* ,kuwan-on !  ,compassionate
 sits 9 contemplation beside ! desc5d+  
/ream (  life4 ,!n = a few mom5ts we    
ent]$ by a l[ door ! sanctu>y1  n>r[ &  
high & ) pyramidal ro(4                 
,illu/ration3 ,,kuwanon1 ,,by ,,okio4   
,by ! flick]+ tor* :i* alone gave light1

 all seem$ ( gold--!  wall1 ! columns   
:i* run up to ! c5tral gold5 ro(1 & !   
transoms :i* connect !m4 ,9 ! d>k] %ade 
/ood a gold5 %r9e1  nev] op5$4 ,:atev]  
preci\s details !re may be 7 ba!d 9 a   
%ade made ( reflect$ gold4 ,an exquisite
 feel+ ( g5tle solemnity  fill$ ! place4
 ,we pass$ out sudd5ly into ! gl>e ( day
 & "u  ! blaz+ blue sky1 :i* hung ov] ! 
inclosure ( tall trees &  ! temple l !  
ceil+ ( a t5t4    ,aga9 a great wall1   
spott$ ) moss & li*5s1 is built ar\nd z 
an  inclosure4 ,x makes a base = !      
great] wall ( ! m\nta9 ris+  above x1   
:i* is cov]$ ) =e/ trees1 z if ! skirt+ 
( !  wild]ness ( nor!rn ,japan 7 "h     
sudd5ly limit$4 ,across "o  s+le op5+1  
on ! "o side1 :]e %[ ! seams ( ! imm5se 
cyclopean con/ruction1 & jo9+ two       
corn]s1 brok5 by great pat*es  ( ! %ad[s
 ( ! gigantic trees1 /ret*es a :ite     
wall1 heavily  ro($1 aga9/ a %ad[ almo/ 
black4 ,9 its c5t] is a /range1 :ite    
gate-build+1 m\ndlike 9 %ape1 absolutely
 pla91 b capp$ by a  great ro(1 :i* is  

/ret*$ out ^u a mass ( brackets1 all (  
gold  & colors1 & ) c>v$ gold5 doors1 ^:
 c5tral panels are all  frett$ & *isel$ 
& /amp$ ) ! ,:eel ( ! law4 ,"h beg9  !  
di/ant /eps lead+ ?r\gh ! trees to !    
tomb :]e lies !  body ( ,iymits1 cas$ 9 
lay]s ( v]milion1 "u gold5 bronze1  l 8 
gr&fa!r ,iyyas1 & surr\nd$ by ! /ill m  
solit>y  spl5dor ( ! =e/4    ,a/oni%+ z 
is ! contra/ to-day1 9 ! abundance &    
glory (  summ]1 ( ! bronze & ! lacqu]$  
colors1 & ! gold5 c>v+s1  ) ! wild rocks
 & trees1 ! grass & ! mosses1 ,i %\ld l 
to see 9 ! sn[ ( w9t] ?is ri*ness &     
glitt] & w>m? ( r$  & :ite & black &    
gold4    ,c x br+ out /ill m ! lavi%ness
 ( ref9em5t1 :i* wells  up z if         
exhau/less8 ,does its :ite monotony & ! 
d>k ( ! great  c$>s make "o feel /ill m 
! recklessness ( ?is accumulation (     
gold lacqu] & c>v+ & bronze1 all z if   
unprotect$ & tru/$  to ! *ances ( !     
recurr+ seasons8    ,z we repeat ea*    
look1 on our sl[ return ?r\gh ! temples1
 !  same elegance1 ! same ref9em5t1 !   

same indiff]5ce to !  outrages ( "t1    
contra/ aga9 ) ! p]man5ce & ! =ces (    
nature4 ,) ! fatigue & repetition ( !   
innum]able beauties (  gold & color1    
c>v+ & bronze1 ! s5se ( an exquisite art
 br+s  ! indef9able sadness t belongs to
 x1 a feel+ ( humility & (  ! no?+ness (
 man4 ,n[h]e c ?is tea*+ be cle>] ?an 9 
?is place ( ! tombs4 ,x is z if !y said1
 s]5ely or spl5didly1  9 color & c>v+ & 
bronze & gold3 ,we are ! end ( ! limits 
( human endeavor4 ,beyond u beg9s ! o!r 
_w1 & we1 inde$1  %all surely pass away1
 b ?\ rema9e/1 ,o ,et]nal ,beauty6      
,,tao3 ,,! ,,way                        
,,nikko1 ,july #bh4    ,osomi &         
,tategawa 7 ! ar*itects ( ,nikko2 ,osomi
 plann$ !  lovely pagoda1--s ,i am      
told1--& ,i ha/5 to put d[n _! names4   
,at  t "t ! great ,t5kai 0 abbot4 ,he 0 
a fri5d & advis] (  ,iyyas1 z he 0 !    
tea*] ( ,iymits1 ! gr&son1 & (          
,hidetada1 ! less illu/ri\s son4 ,x may 
be ) him t ,iyyas  arrang$ ! plan ( fix$
 end[m5t = ! ,*ur*2 an end[m5t n to  be 

add$ to or dim9i%$1 s t x %\ld be an    
elem5t ( /ability  & no long] a         
fluctuat+ dang]4 ,) ?is seems to h end$ 
!  possible reasons = milit>y dep5d5ts 9
 ! s]vice ( ! ,*ur*4    ,t5kai is said  
to h plann$ or prep>$ be=eh& ! temples (
  ,iyyas1 :i* might expla9 ! extremely  
%ort "t giv5 9 !  record = _! build+2 s 
t1 begun 9 #afaf1 ! /able1 !  surr\nd+  
edifices1 & ! %r9e 7 complet$ 9 ! ?ird  
mon?  ( #afag4    ,i h be5 c>eful to    
give y "s acc\nt ( ! temples ( ,iyyas  &
 ,iymits1 because ,i regret hav+ said s 
little ( ^? temples (  ,%iba 9 ,tokio1  
:]e ! rema9d] ( ! ,tokugawa rul]s repose
 9 a  /ate adorn$ by simil> spl5dors4 ,b
 ^! temples ( ! f\nd]s  are ( a m       
complete type1 &1 ) "o exception1 seem  
to me m  impressive4 ,yet ev5 ) !       
beauties t ,i h tri$ to describe1 ,i  am
 /ill n q s c>ri$ away z ,i might h be5 
by su* complete  works ( art4 ,!re is a 
some?+1 a seem+ ( pret5se or ef=t or    
+5i\sness1 :i* ,i _c seize1 b :i* seems 
to me to belong to  a spl5dor n q       

secure1 or p]haps only j secur$1--some?+
  l :at ,i might call ! m>k ( ! p>v5u4  
,yes2 ,i ?9k t is x4 ,x is /ill1 aft]   
all ?is "t1 j a little  new4 ,b :at     
?or\gh adaptation ( means to ends2 h[   
delicately  subtle ! arrangem5ts1 &     
simple2 & h[ impossible to describe     
?r\gh words or draw+s4 ,h[ ! result     
alone is aim$ at1 & :at  little p>ade is
 made ( ! int5tion & prep>ation4 ,?is   
"w1 :i*  seems to betray an inf]iority  
to its own ideal--?is "w1 :i* has  ev5 a
 t\* ( ! vulg>1 is *>m+ en\gh to look l 
a fairyl&4  ,x displays a capacity =    
arrangem5t :i* none ( u to-day c\ld     
hope to control2 has a *>m t any        
pass]-by c\ld feel2 has m  details (    
beauty ?an all our ar*itects n[ liv+1   
all toge!r1  c\ld dream ( accompli%+ 9 !
 longe/ life4 ,:5 ,i began to  reflect  
h[ ?is wood & pla/] _h m ( ! dignity (  
art & (  its accessible beauty ?an all t
 we h at home1 if melt$ toge!r1  w\ld   
result 92 t ^! frail mat]ials convey$ to
 ! m9d m (  ! et]nal ?an our granite1 x 

seem$ to me t some?+ 0  absolutely wrong
 ) u4    ,& ! cause ( ?is result 0 n !  
spl5dor ( l9e & color2 x  0 n !         
ref9em5t4 ,! la/ "t ,i c\ld recall a    
simil> s5sation  _h be5 be=e "s little  
*ur* t[] ( ,engl&2 x 0 c]ta9ly  !       
subord9ation ( all means to a s+le end1 
& _! disappe>ance  9 "o impression4     
444 ,s9ce my fir/ visit to ! temples my 
m9d has be5 dwell+ m  & m 9 an          
involunt>y mann] ^u ! contra/ ) all     
mod]n art1  & ,i v5ture to note d[n = y 
"s ( ! ?\ghts =c$ ^u me4  ,x seems z if 
,i 7 really rem9d$ ( :at ,i always knew1
 or ought to  h kn[n2 & p]haps :at ,i   
may say ab\t ourselves is z good a way  
z any o!r ( giv+ an op9ion ^u :at ,i see
 "h4 ,=1 inde$1  :at ,i see "h t ,i     
admire ,i feel z ?\gh ,i _h always kn[n1
 _h  already se52 x is r mo/ ( our own t
 seems que]1 /range1  & (t5             
unreasonable4    ,i c make no set &     
ord]ly arrangem5t ( my r confus$  ?9k+1 
b c only trace x out z x occurr$ to     
me--z if x 7  f outside2 z if some?+    

:isp]$ to me n[ & !n out ( small        
occurr5ces1 & said1 ,don't y und]/& m   
cle>ly8    444 ,on leav+ ! temples we   
w5t back to our fri5ds' h\se1 :i* 0     
once ! resid5ce ( ! reg5t ( ,japan--a   
l>ge1 l[ wood5 build+  ( ! k9d s        
c>efully describ$ by ,mr4 ,morse 9 8    
book4 ,all is  extremely simple2 !re is 
no?+ to call any att5tion4 ,! woodwork  
is m]ely put toge!r ) great c>e2 "s     
little panels ( !  closets are nicely   
trimm$ ) metal & highly ornam5t$4 ,?is1 
)  metal nail-heads & a pretty          
wall-pap]1 is all ! decoration4    ,"h  
we f\nd ! mail & pap]s1 & enjoy$ !      
wat]+-place  feel+ ( news f t[n4 ,!re 7 
copies ( ,life & ( ! ,london  ,pun*1 _m 
( ^: draw+s did n look out ( place 9 ?is
 l&  ( clev] sket*]s4 ,inde$1 t 9 !m :i*
 once seem$ good across  ! seas /ill    
held its own 9 pres5ce ( ! little       
prodigies (  te*nique t "o meets 9      
,japanese draw+s4    ,inde$1 !y recall$ 
"o ano!r4 ,bo? call out "o's sudd5      
recollection ( "s facts 9 nature2 &     

besides1 all good sket*es  resemble "o  
ano!r z be+ ! ne>e/ approa* to ! highe/ 
f9i%$ "w4 ,!y h 9 common ) x ! ess5tial 
m]it ( be+  bett] ?an !y appe>1 (       
indicat+ m ?an is necess>y to tell  !   
tale1 ( n be+ /rictly measurable        
quantities4 ,we gr[ s  ungrateful :5 too
 well treat$ t we =get h[ ,mr4 ,du      
,mauri]  ?r[s 91 ov] & above ! social   
epigram 9 l9es1 an elegance &  grace t  
might belong to a poetic picture2 t ,mr4
 ,ke5e tells 8  /ory ov] & ov] aga9 9 ! 
v folds ( ea* individual's dress2  t he 
w1 unconc]n$ly1 pres5t u ) a l&scape z  
full (  nature z 8 human figures1 in/ead
 ( ! indiff]5t backgr\nd :i*  w\ld h be5
 suffici5t = ! /ory ( ! c>icaturi/4 ,n[1
 !  feel+ ( dis5*antm5t1 ( hav+ f\nd out
 appe>ances1 ( hav+  come to ! end ( a  
?+1 is nev] =giv5 by ! av]age heal?y    
m9d4 ,9 great] ?+s "o turns1 "s day1 to 
^? :i* are always  ri*] & full] ( mean+ 
) "t1--z "o looks to-day at a ,corot  or
 a ,delacroix or a ,millet once         
unc>$-=1--& t means t at  l5g? our eyes 

are op5$4 ,! sket*1 l ! great "w ( art1 
is  bett] ?an x appe>s1 & recalls to me 
! emp]or 9 ! /ory1 :om  ! old woman c\ld
 n recognize 9 ! pres5ce ( ! big        
drum-major4  ,we c appreciate :at suff]+
 ! little old woman und]w5t :5 %e       
discov]$ h] mi/ake1 & h[ %e nev] =gave !
 big drum-major4  ,= mank9d has nev]    
believ$ at he>t t ! "w itself is to be  
judg$1 b has always 7at lea/ 9 ! case ( 
"o's neighbor7  ackn[l$g$ t x is ! "w ( 
art :i* judges u4    ,s says a ,japanese
 fri5d1 & ,i ?9k t he has x exactly4    
,h5ce an  importance atta*es to         
criticism :i* o!rwise w\ld be           
inexpla9able1--! importance !re is 9 be+
 "r1--because we  %all be judg$         
ourselves if we are wrong1 & (t5 by     
ourselves z  judges4    444 ,& late     
numb]s ( ! magaz9es _h come1 pleasant to
 look ov]  be=e d9n]1--:ile ! noiseless 
s]vants glid$ ov] ! matt+1  & our ho/ess
 put on h] ,japanese co/ume1--s]v+ to   
make !  di/ance great]1 z we feel t all 
goes on at home ) ! usual  regul>ity4   

,"s ar*itectural sket*es 9 facsimile 9 a
 magaz9e became entangl$  ) ! ?read ( my
 ?9k+ & br\ght to my m9d an inevitable  
lesson4    ,!y 7 *>m+1 & s diff]5t f !  
realities :i* !y 7  meant to embody4 ,"o
 ,i dwelt ^u1 bright & clev]1 :]e e d>k 
( w9d[ or ( %ad[ int5sifi$ ! joyfulness 
( ! :ite wall ( a  resid5ce at home1 :i*
 y daily pass4 ,9 ! reality1 alas6 its  
,fif?  ,av5ue monotony is unreliev$4 ,! 
wall is n bright1 ! w9d[s are  pal] ?an 
! walls1 & ! projections & adornm5t are 
dull] yet4  ,! draw+ 0 an ab/raction1   
probably meant = ! sweet enticem5t  ( ! 
cli5t1 & 0 :at ! build+ %\ld h be54 ,!  
draughtsman knew bett] ?an he build$4 ,z
 my m9d analyz$ ?is  curi\s pr(essional 
mis/atem5t ( tru?1 x seem$ to me t ,i   
c\ld  see h[ ! art ( ar*itecture 9      
,japan 0 real comp>$ to ours1 ev5  ?\gh 
none ( _! ar*itects1 any m ?an ^? ( !   
great pa/  ( ! _w1 c\ld h made su* a    
draw+--su* a brilliant promise  ( a     
p]=mance n to be1 su* a beautifully     
engrav$ *eck ^u a  bank :]e !re 7 no    

funds4 ,n kn[+ ! sci5ce & art (         
p]spective draw+1 nor ! p[] ( repres5t+ 
%ad[s accord+ to  rule1 nor hav+ ! habit
 ( rul+ l9es ) a rul] to give  int]e/1  
nor ( ?r[+ little witty acc5ts ( d>k to 
fill up  blanks1 !y 7 p]haps ! m oblig$ 
to conc5trate _! p[]s  ^u ! end ( ! "w2 
& _! real motive 0 ! "w itself4    ,?is 
may be /range & contradictory to ! mod]n
 ,we/]n m9d1  gradually accu/om$ to     
poli%$ c>toons = bad pa9t+s & worse     
glass1 to rem>kable designs = decoration
 & ar*itecture :i* look  _! be/ 9       
woodcuts1 to great decorative pa9t+s :i*
 are c>ri$  out s t !y may be           
photograph$ )\t any injury to _! color1 
nay1 to its va/ improvem5t4 ,d y rememb]
 h[ ,b----1 ! fam\s  sculptor1 us$ to   
prea* to me t to-day no "o look$ at a ?+
  itself1 no "o expect$ to1 & t ! fame (
 ! arti/ 0 =  ^? ^: "w c\ld be          
adequately repres5t$ 9 ! newspap]s4 ,t  
an excell5ce :i* c\ld n be duplicat$1 t 
a tone :i* c\ld n  be mat*$1 t a l9e :i*
 c\ld n be copi$1 0 n to be  appreciat$ 

& c\ld n be c>$ =4 ,9 fact1 t su*       
ref9em5ts  7 only wor?y ( ! m9d ( an    
,ori5tal1 ( a man accu/om$ to  we> !    
moon embroid]$ on 8 back4 ,:y sp5d days 
9 obta9+ !  color ( a wall :i* any      
ar*itect w ?9k c be adequately  replac$ 
by 8 description ( some?+ l x to ! pa9t+
 firm  ar\nd ! corn]8 ,:y make ! ?+     
itself1 if some?+ l x w  d z well8 ,:y  
/rike ! note exactly1 if any s\nd ne> x 
satisfies  ! av]age e>8 ,= u1 to-day1   
?+s & realities no long] exi/4  ,x is 9 
_! descriptions t we believe4 ,ev5 9 mo/
 cultivat$  ,france an ar*itect or      
design] l ,viollet-le-,duc w s]i\sly    
und]take to re/ore old "w1 e squ>e in* (
 :i* has _h !  pati5t toil ( s\ls full (
 love & desire ( ! be/1 by rubb+ x  all 
out1 & mak+ a pap] draw+ or lit]>y      
description = o!rs  to re/ore aga9 9 a  
few mod]n weeks ! value ( anci5t ye>s ( 
ineffably intellig5t c>e4 ,consid] ?is  
impossibility ( gett+ a  dec5t          
re/oration c>ri$ out by our be/         
intellig5ces1 & note t  :ile !y are     

unable ) all money & talk & book-le>n+  
to  replace ! pa/ 9 a way t c deceive u1
 !re exi/ pati5t1  obscure workm5 :o1   
beg9n+ at ! o!r end ( ! "w1 produce     
little m>vels ( deception 9 false       
antiquities--pur*as$ by museums  &      
amateurs = sums _! au?ors nev] c\ld get 
9 _! prop]  "n4 ,b ^! latt] h only "o   
object1 ! ?+ itself1 & are  judg$ by !  
result2 :ile we1 ! arbit]s & directors  
bett] kn[n1  :o nev] employ !m1 are     
satisfi$1 & satisfy o!rs by our hav+    
fil$ 9 ! ar*ives ( to-day notices t we  
are go+ to d  some?+ 9 ! utt]ly correct 
way4 ,i took z an example our fri5d     
,viollet-le-,duc1 ! rem>kable ar*itect  
^: works we h bo?  /udi$1 because he has
 writt5 well1--9 "s ways1 no "o m       
acutely  & m wisely2 because ( 8 real   
le>n+1 & on acc\nt ( 8  v great         
exp]i5ce4 ,is all t ?is man & 8 pupils  
did 9 _!  own art ( mak+1 wor?1 z art1 !
 brok5 c>v+ t ,i kick to-day  out ( my  
pa?8    ,has su* a risible calamity ev] 
occurr$ be=e 9 any age8 ,de/ruction  !re

 has be51 replac+ ( old1 good "w ) bett]
 or ) worse by  p :o did n und]/&1 or   
c>e1 or pret5d to c>e2 b !  replac+ (   
good ) bad by p :o d und]/&1 & :o claim 
to  c>e1 has nev] be5 a curse until     
to-day4 ,?is failure 9 all  re/oration1 
9 all do+ ( ! ?+ itself1 mu/ be directly
  connect$ ) our p$antic education & )  
our belief 9 conv5i5t  appliances1 9    
propositions1 9 labor-sav+              
classifications1 9 action  on pap]1 9   
projects = future "w1 9 s\l-sav+ !ories 
&  beliefs--9 any?+ except be+ sav$ by  
!--"w itself4    ,inde$1 ,i h always    
felt t p]haps 9 ! case ( poor ,ri*>dson1
  j dead1 we may beg9 to see ! %ape ( an
 exception1 & c  realize :at c be       
accompli%$ ?r\gh :at we call$           
defici5cies4 ,he  0 oblig$1 9 ! fir/    
place1 to ?r[ ov]bo>d 9 deal+ ) new     
problems all 8 educational recipes le>n$
 9 o!r c\ntries4 ,!n1  d y ?9k t if he  
_h drawn *>m+ draw+s be=eh& he w\ld  h  
be5 able to *ange !m1 to keep 8 build+ 9
 h&1 z s mu*  pla/ic mat]ial8 ,no2 ! v  

t5acity ne$$ = c>ry+ out any?+  l>ge    
w\ld h =c$ him to respect 8 own wi% once
 f9ally  express$1 :ile ! c>eful /udies 
( 8 assi/ants 7 only a  gr\nd to inquire
 into1 &1 la/ly1 to *oose f4    ,= _m   
little prett9esses & p]fections d n make
 a great unity4  ,?r\gh my m9d passes ! 
rem9isc5ce ( some?+ ,i h j be5  read+1 !
 words ( an old ,*9ese writ]1 an exp\nd]
 ( ,tao 7!  ,way71 :o said :at he ?\ght 
( su* matt]s "s tw5ty-five  c5turies    
ago4 ,:at he said runs some:at 9 ?is    
way3         ,! snake hiss$ at ! w9d1   
say+3 ,i at lea/ h a =m1 b       y are  
nei!r ?is nor t1 & y bl[ r\ghly ?r\gh ! 
_w1 blu/]+ f ! seas ( ! nor? to ! seas (
 !       s\?4         ,x is true1 repli$
 ! w9d1 t ,i bl[ r\ghly1 z y say1       
& t ,i am inf]ior to ^? t po9t or kick  
at me1 9 t       ,i _c d ! same to !m4  
,on ! o!r h&1 ,i bl[ /rongly       &    
fill ! air1 & ,i c break huge trees &   
de/roy l>ge       build+s4 ,out ( _m    
small ?+s 9 :i* ,i d n excel ,i         
make ,,"o ,,great ,,"o 9 :i* ,i d excel4

           99       99       99       99
       99         ,9 ! doma9s ( ! ,"o   
!re may n be manag+4    ,h5ce1 also1 !  
difficulty1 ,i _h almo/ said !          
impossibility1 (  f9d+ a design] to-day 
capable ( mak+ a monum5t3 say1 =        
in/ance1 a tomb1 or a commemorative1    
ideal build+--a ca!dral1 or a  little   
memorial4 ,!re is no necessity 9 su* =ms
 ( art1 no?+  to call into play !       
en]gies devot$ to usefulness1 to gett+  
on1 to  adaptation1 to clev]ness1 :i* ! 
same ,taoi/ says is ! way ( man1  :ile  
integrity is ! way ( ,god4    ,art      
alone1 pure1 by itself1 c be "h ! object
 ( ! mak]'s  contemplation2 ! laws ( !  
univ]se t m5 call beauty are !  true &  
only suffici5t mat]ials ( con/ruction4  
,) :at prep>ation does a design] (      
humbugs come to su* "w1  failure 9 :i*  
_c be excus$ because ( any practical    
reasons1  because ( any press+          
necessities--t really belongs to !      
public1  to ev]ybody m ?an to its       
possessor1 or to its own]1 or to ^?  :o 

h paid = x--t1 f9ally1 c be sav$ f      
adv]se criticism  only = a %ort "t1 :ile
 pass+ int]e/s are conc]n$4    ,:o kn[s 
?is bett] ?an y\rself8 ,:]e on e>?      
to-day c y f9d  a ?+ done by u design]s 
t an arti/ w g to look at = love1  = !  
deep desire ( enjoym5t :i* makes u visit
 s _m little  ?+s ( ! pa/1 & g f> = !m8 
,if y c1 imag9e any pa9t]  desir+ to    
note1 s z to make !m 8 own by copy1 a   
mod]n set (  mold+s1 ! corn] ( a mod]n  
build+4    ,& yet :at a ru% ( delight   
comes ^u u ) a few ,greek mold+s1  ) a  
fragm5t ( ,greek or ,go?ic ornam5t1 ) ! 
m]e look ( !  walls ( "s good old       
build+4 ,h[ ! pleasure & ! emotions (   
^? :o made !m h be5 built into !m1 & are
 reflect$ back to  u1 l ! smile f a     
human face4 ,i "k t ,i h told y (t5  h[ 
! fragm5t ( a ,go?ic w9d[ f old ,engli% 
,bo/on set into !  cloi/] ( ,tr9ity ( ! 
new ,bo/on always seem$ to me to        
outweigh  ! entire build+ 9 :i* x re/s4 
,& yet x is only a poor  fragm5t ( no   
great p]iod4 ,b !n ! mak]s ?\ght & felt 

9 !  mat]ials t !y work$ 91 ev5 if _!   
draw+s 7 rude &  incomplete & (t5       
incorrect4 ,& no ar*itect seems to      
realize to-day  t 8 walls c\ld give u ! 
same emotions t we receive f a          
,rembr&t1 or a ,van ,eyck1 or a         
,v]onese1 & = ! same reasons1 &  ?r\gh a
 simil> use ( a real te*nique4    ,y    
draw well2 y c make a sket*1 ,i am sure1
 :i*1 l _m  o!rs1 w\ld h spots ( light  
on a black surface1 or a pretty wa%  (  
sky above x1 or little pat*es ( %ad[1 l 
clev] li*5s1  spread ov] x1 & t w\ld be 
correct 9 artificial p]spective1 &      
recall some?+ ( old] design1 & h no     
great blemi%es to take  hold (4 ,h[ f>  
w\ld x help y to h made a million su* if
 y  s]i\sly wi%$ to d a ?+ = itself1 n =
 its effects ^u a  cli5t1 nor = a claim 
^u ! public1 nor = a salve to y\r own   
vanity8    ,& n[ d y see h[1 z we       
ar*itects & design]s gradually "w  m & m
 on pap] & n 9 ! real1 our en]gies are  
work$ out  9 accompli%+ be=e we get to  
our real "w1--t ( build+ a  "w ( art1--&

 ! result ( our draw+s gr[s feebl] &    
feebl]  & tam] z x presses to its end4  
,!n1 = ?is weak frame (  conception1 !  
m5 :o h come 9 to help 7& t only because
 !  director's "t w\ld n admit ( 8 do+  
all himself1 o!rwise he  w\ld1 9 8      
jeal\s weakness1 adorn z poorly z he    
imag9es7--!n1 ,i  say1 if ! pa9t]1 !    
sculptor1 ! decorator1 %[s any /r5g? or 
p[]1 !re is ano!r dang]4 ,!re is dang] t
 ! sculptor's  relief w be m p[]ful ?an 
! weak projections ( solid  masonry1--t 
! l9es ( ! pa9t] w be gr&] & m ample    
?an ^? :i* 7 meant to guide & conf9e    
!m--t ! pa9t (  ! decorator w appe> m   
massive & m support+ ?an !  walls ( !   
ar*itect4 ,:5ce all w be tam$1 all      
annull$ & made  wor?less & paltry1 s z n
 to di/urb ! weak ef=ts ( !  ma/]       
direct+4 ,& = ! fir/ "t 9 ! hi/ory ( art
 we %all  h build+s :i* ! ,greek or !   
,roman1 ! ,m$ieval or !  ,ori5tal1 w\ld 
h be5 unable to adorn1 :ile 9 _! times !
  ma/]s :o 7 ar*itects1 great & small1  
f\nd no tr\ble 9  plac+ )9 _! build+s1  

made fam\s to all "t by ?is *oice1  !   
sculptures ( ! ,p>!non or ( ,olympia1 ! 
glass or ! /atues  ( ,*ri/ian ca!drals1 
or ! c>v+s ( ,india or ( ,japan4    ,s t
 :5 ! greate/ pa9t] ( ! c5tury left     
in/ructions =  8 tomb1 he ask$ t x %\ld 
be copi$ f "s =m] "o (  antiquity or    
r5aissance1 s t x might h--to typify 8  
love &  8 dislikes--mascul9e mold+s & a 
manly "*1 contr>y1 z he  said1 to all t 
is done to-day 9 ar*itecture4    ,y may 
say t ?r\gh all ?is w&]+ ( ?\ght ,i am  
tell+ y  little ab\t ,japanese art4     
,wait2 p]haps ,i may be m]ely prep>+ y\r
  m9d & m9e = :at ,i %all h to say lat]4
 ,or1 r1 let u  ?9k t ,i am c>ri$ away  
by ! _s1 & t ,i am c]ta9ly  talk+ ( :at 
,i d n f9d "h2 & if !re is no novelty 9 
:at ,i  say1 & t y "k x1 & h always kn[n
 x1 we %all come back  to :at y also "k1
 t art is ! same ev]y:]e & always1 &  t 
,i ne$ n come ?is di/ance to le>n its   
pr9ciples4 ,if !re is  any?+ good "h1 x 
mu/ resemble "s ( ! good t we h )  u4 ,b
 "h at lea/ ,i am fre]1 deliv]$ f a _w (

 cant+  phrases1 ( p]v]t$ ?\ght1 :i* ,i 
am oblig$ to brea! 9 at home  s z to be 
/a9$ by !m4 ,:atev] p$antry may be "h1  
,i h n  _h to live ) x1 & ,i be> no     
responsibility 9 its exi/5ce4 ,&  !n    
aga91 art "h seems to be a common       
possession1 has n be5  app>5tly sep>at$ 
f ! masses1 f ! orig9al feel+ (  mank9d4
    ,to-day at d9n]1 ,kato1 :o 0 wait+  
^u u1 c\ld give 8 op9ion  ^u !          
au!nticity ( "s old ma/]'s "w1 at !     
reque/ ( our  ho/1 himself a great      
au?ority2 s t ,i c\ld cont9ue my dream+ 
?r\gh ! conv]sation & ! semi-,european  
c\rses1 m>k$ by my  fir/ acqua9tance ) !
 ta/e ( bamboo %oots--a little delicacy 
s5t 9 by ,a-*91 ! *ildr5's nurse4       
,mu* 0 talk$ ( ! ,tokugawa race1 & "s   
cruelty 0 %[n to  _! memory z a family (
 p>v5us :o _h usurp$ ! p[]  !oretically 
inve/$ 9 ! mikados--an usurpation       
practis$ ov] &  ov] aga9 by e successful
 %ogun1 z by ,yoritomo1 ,taikosama4     
,inde$1 ! ,a%ikaga move ?r\gh ,japanese 
hi/ory aga9/ a backgr\nd  ( mikados4 ,& 

:5 ,o---- comes 9 lat] he talks (       
,masa%ige1 & (  o!rs1 :o dur+ c5turies1 
at long int]vals1 attempt$ to realize   
:at has n[ be5 accompli%$--! re/oration 
( ! mikado to 8  anci5t p[]s & rul]%ip (
 tw5ty c5turies ago4    ,yes1 !         
,tokugawa spl5dor 0 t ( p>v5us4 ,_!     
half-div9e  ma/]s lie 9 no gild$ %r9es  
nor "u monum5tal bronze1 b buri$  b5ea? 
! elem5ts1 _! graves m>k$ only by m\nds 
or trees1 z x  might h be5 ) _! e>lie/  
ance/ors1 ! peaceful *iefta9s  ( a      
primitive family3 a simplicity recall$  
to-day by ! little  fragm5t ( dri$ fi% t
 accompanies pres5ts1 9 memory ( !      
orig9al humility ( ! fi%+ tribes1 !     
ance/ors ( ?is almo/  ov]-cultivat$     
race4    ,^! ,tokugawa1 !n1 7 p>v5us1 & 
naturally ask$ ( art1 :i*  la/s & has   
la/$ & is to la/1 an affirmation ( _!   
new  dep>ture4 ,?is spl5dor 0 made = !m1
 & its delici\s ref9em5t  has n q escap$
 t some?+ :i* tr\bl$ me at ,%iba--an    
anxiety t all %\ld be spl5did & p]fect1 
an unwill+ness to  take any?+ = grant$4 

,& yet1 by comp>ison1 ?is looks l a     
fairyl& ( ref9em5t4 ,:at %\ld we d :5   
call$ to help a new man  to assi/ or to 
sweet5 8 acquir$ position8 ,:at vulg>ity
 (  vulg>ities %\ld we produce8 ,?9k ( !
 prepo/]\s dwell+s1 !  vulg> adornm5ts  
giv5 to ! ri*2 ! second-h& clo?+ 9 :i*  
newly acquir$ p[] is wrapp$4 ,! ,engli% 
cad1 & ! ,fr5*man n  good en\gh = home1 
put ! f9i%+ t\* ^u ! pro(s ( culture    
:i* are to repres5t !m to _! *ildr54    
,i ne$ n ref] to :at is se5 9 ,san      
,francisco z an example4 ,at home  9    
,new ,york we h m ?an are pleasant to   
?9k (4 ,i "k t "s  may say t we h only  
:at we des]ve = ?9k+ t we c  escape1 9 !
 laws t gov]n art1 ! rules t we h f\nd  
to  hold 9 ev]y?+ else4    ,"s ye>s ago 
,i told y h[ once a purveyor (          
decorations = !  millionaire1 a great   
man 9 8 l9e1 expla9$ to me h[ & :y he _h
  met 8 cli5ts half-way4 ,y despise my  
"w1 he said1 ?\gh y  are too polite to  
say s1--= we 7 fri5dly 9 a mann]1--& yet
  ,i c say t ,i am m ?or\ghly 9 ! "r ?an

 ^? :o w\ld  seek to give ^! m5 an      
arti/ic clo?+ fit = pr9ces4 ,is !re     
any?+ m c]ta9 ?an t ! arti/ repres5ts 8 
age1 & is  all ! great] = embody+ x4 ,n[
 t is :at ,i d4 ,y w say  t my "w is n  
deeply consid]$1 ?\gh x is extremely    
c>eful 9  execution2 t its aims are n   
high2 t x is n sob]2 t x is  %[y1 p]haps
 ev5 m2 t x is l\d occasionally--:5 x is
 n  tame2 t x %[s = all x is wor?1 & is 
nev] bett] ?an x  looks4 ,& :o1 pray1   
are ! p t live surr\nd$ by :at ,i  make8
 ,are !y n repres5t$ by :at ,i d8 ,d !y 
n want %[ (  su* a k9d z c be easily    
und]/ood1 ref9em5t t %all n  rem9d o!rs 
( a ref9em5t great] ?an !irs1 money sp5t
 l>gely1  b %[+ = e doll>8 ,!y want     
ev]y?+ quick1 because !y  h always be5 9
 a hurry2 !y want x on "t1 :atev]       
happ5s1  because !y are accu/om$ to "t  
b>ga9s2 !y want x adv]tisable1  because 
!y live by adv]tis+2 & !y gradually     
believe 9 !  value ( ! pret5ses !y h    
made to o!rs4 ,!y are n tr\bl$  by :at  
!y feel is transi5t1 because _! exp]i5ce

 has be5 to  pass on to o!rs ! ?+s !y   
pref]r$ n to keep4 ,!y feel  suspici\s (
 any?+ t claims or seems to be bett] ?an
 x looks2  is n _! bus9ess to sell de>] 
?an !y buy8 ,!y mu/ n be  s+ul>1 because
 !y mu/ fit into "s place already       
occupi$4    ,i claim to h fully express$
 all ?is ( !m 9 :at ,i d1 & ,i  c>e     
little = ! envi\s contempt ( ! ar*itects
 :o h to  employ me & :o w\ld l to h my 
place & wield my influ5ce4  ,& s ,i     
reflect my cli5ts1 & my art w h giv5 :at
 !y are4    ,?us ! great ,g]man roll$   
out 8 m9d ) ! ,teutonic delight at  giv+
 an appe>ance ( pure intellect to !     
int]e/$ work+ ( 8  w--incid5tally sne]+ 
at ! peacock fea!rs1 ! sad-ey$ dados1  !
 pov]ty-/rick5 s5tim5tality1 half       
e/hetic1 half %opkeep]1 (  8 ,engli%    
rivals1 or at ! blund]s 9 art :i* ,mr4  
,/an=d ,:ite  once call$ our native     
,hott5tot /yle4    ,( c\rse my ,g]man 0 
m]ely us+ a curr5t sophi/ry t is only   
wor? quot+ to emphasize ! tru?4         
,augu/us1 ! greate/ ( all p>v5us1 did n 

ask ( ,virgil to recall  9 v]se !       
cruelties ( civil w>4 ,no true arti/ has
 ev] s\ght to  be degrad$2 no work] ( ! 
,middle ,ages has reflect$ ! brutality (
  ! _w ar\nd him4 ,on ! contr>y1 he has 
appeal$ to its *ivalry  & its religion4 
,no trea*]\s adv5tur] ( ! ,r5aissance is
  pictur$ 9 ! sunny1 ref9$ ar*itecture t
 0 made = him4 ,y  & ,i "k t art is n ! 
attempt at reflect+ o!rs1 at tak+       
possession ( o!rs1 :o belong to         
!mselves2 b t x is an  attempt at keep+ 
possession ( "o's self4 ,x is (t5 a     
prote/ at  :at is displeas+ & mean ab\t 
u2 x is an appeal to :at is  bett]4 ,t  
is its mo/ real value4 ,x is an appeal  
to peace 9 "t (  brutal w>1 an appeal to
 c\rage\s w> 9 "t ( ignoble peace2 x is 
an appeal to ! p]man5t reality 9 pres5ce
 ( ! transi5t2 x is  an attempt to re/ =
 a mom5t 9 ! true way4    ,we are augurs
 conv]s+ toge!r1 & we c af=d to laugh at
 any  respect$ absurdity4 ,we "k t      
clev]ness is n ! way to !  reality2     
clev]ness is only man's weak sub/itute =

 integrity1 :i*  is f ,god4    ,all ^!  
words--miscall$ ideas--p\r$ out by my   
,g]man fri5d &  8 cong5]s are m]ely     
records ( m]*ants' ways ( look+ at !    
use ( a ?+1 n at ! ?+ itself4 ,su* p are
 p]suad$ t  !y mu/ surely "k ab\t ! ?+  
!y sell or furni%4 ,if n !y1  !n :o8 ,= 
none c be s imp>tial1 z none are s      
dis9t]e/$1 9  ! use ( ! ?+ sold4    ,x  
is too f> back = y to rememb] ! *>m+    
,blanco1 ! great  slave-deal]1 b y may h
 he>d ( 8 say+1 :i* cov]s !  side ( !   
deal]4 ,he _h be5 ask$ :y he felt s     
secure 9 8  judgm5t ( 8 fell[-creatures1
 & especially ( wom54 ,because1  said   
he1 ,i h trad$ 9 s _m--,j'en ai tant    
v5du4 ,i h  sometimes quot$ ?is say+ to 
deal]s 9 works ( art1 to deal]s 9  k    
ab\t art1 )\t1 h[ev]1 any success 9     
pleas+ !m4 ,9  fact1 "o has no judgm5t (
 "o's own 9 reg>d to any?+ sold t  is n 
a matt] ( utility until "o feels q      
?or\ghly1 z if x  7 "o's own1 ! s5se (  
,talleyr&'s treatm5t ( ! p]suasive      
deal]4 ,i am sure t y d n "k ! /ory4    

,two fri5ds ( 81  ladies ( rank1 _h *os5
 8 /udy z a place ( meet+4 ,!y wi%$  to 
select "s r+1 "s bracelet1 = a gift1 & !
 great jewel] (  ,p>is 0 to s5d "o ( 8  
salesm5 ) suffici5t to *oose f4 ,(      
c\rse ! *oice 0 soon limit$ to two1 &   
!re paus$1 until  ,talleyr&1 sitt+ at ! 
f>!r end ( ! long libr>y1 call$ out1    
,let me und]take to help y to make y\r  
decision4 ,"y man1 ( ^!  two tr9kets    
tell me :i* y pref]4 ,?is "o1 c]ta9ly1  
y\r  ,excell5cy4 ,!n1 end$ ! exp]i5c$   
cynic1 please accept x =  y\r swee!>t2 &
 ,i ?9k1 ladies1 t y _h bett] take !    
o!r4 ,i tell y anecdotes2 are !y n z    
good z reasons8    ,li/5 to :at my      
,*9ese writ] says3 ,( language put into 
o!r  p's m\?s1 n9e-t5?s w succe$4 ,(    
language bas$ ^u  weighty au?ority1     
sev5-t5?s4 ,b language :i* fl[s         
con/antly  ov]1 z f a full goblet1 is 9 
accord ) ,god4 ,:5 language is put  into
 o!r p's m\?s1 outside support is s\ght4
 ,j z a fa!r  does n negotiate 8 son's  
m>riage1 = any praise he c\ld be/[  w\ld

 n h ! same value z praise by an        
outsid]4 ,?us ! fault  is n m9e1 b t (  
o!rs1 :o w\ld n believe me z !  orig9al 
speak]4 ,aga91 a /ory ( ,*9a comes back 
to me1 told by !  same writ]1 :o liv$   
be=e our pur] era1 & :o 01 z a ,japanese
  fri5d rem>ks1 a /rategi/ 9 ?\ght1 fond
 ( side attacks1 (  pres5t+ "s po9t     
app>5tly anecdotic & unimportant1 :i*1  
once  li/5$ to1 turns ! tru?ful m9d into
 *annels ( fre% inquiry4 ,!  anecdote is
 old1 told by ! old writ] _m c5turies   
be=e ,*ri/1  & be=e any reflections ab\t
 art tr\bl$ our b>b>ian m9ds4    ,x is  
ab\t a c\rt ar*itect :o fl\ri%$ 9       
celebrity "s  tw5ty-sev5 c5turies ago1 &
 :o answ]$ admir+ qu]ies z to h[  he did
 su* wond]ful ?+s4 ,!re is no?+         
sup]natural ab\t x1  he said4 ,i fir/   
free my m9d & pres]ve my vitality--my   
dep5d5ce  ^u ,god4 ,!n1 aft] a few days1
 ! "q ( h[ mu* money ,i %all  make      
disappe>s2 a few m days1 & ,i =get fame 
& ! c\rt ^:  ar*itect ,i am2 ano!r day  
or s1 & ,i ?9k only ( ,,! ,,?+ ,,itself4

  ,!n ,i am ready to g into ! =e/--!    
ar*itect & ! c>p5t]  7 "o !n--^: wood   
mu/ conta9 ! =m ,i %all seek4 ,z y  see1
 !re is no?+ sup]natural ab\t x4        
,tw5ty-sev5 c5turies ago ! =mula ( all  
good "w 0 ! same z  x has be5 s9ce4 ,?is
 look+ = ! ?+ itself1 n = !  =mula to   
control x1 enabl$ m5 :o 7 great & m5 :o 
7  little1 f> d[n t[>d u1 f> d[n into ! 
times ( ! ,r5aissance  7until p$antry & 
night cov]$ human fre$om & integrity71  
to be  pa9t]s or poets1 sculptors or    
ar*itects1 z ! occasion requir$1 to  !  
a/oni%m5t ( our n>r[$1 specializ$ vision
 ( ! la/ two  hundr$ ye>s4    ,aga91 if 
,i h n put x cle>ly en\gh 9 ?is /ory ( !
 f>  ,ea/1 let me add ano!r1 :i*        
includes ! mean+ ( ! fir/4 ,y  w =give x
 9 honor ( ! g5ius loci1 = ^! writ+s ( !
  ,*9ese philosoph]s =m a /aple (       
conv]sation & discussion 9  social      
ga!r+s ( cultivat$ p "h4 ,! /ory is ( ! 
greate/ ( ,*9ese rul]s1 ! ,yell[ ,emp]or
 ( "s =ty-sev5  c5turies ago4 ,he 0 9   
pursuit ( t law ( ?+s1 t suffici5t      

ideal :i* is call$ ,tao 7! ,way71 & he  
s\ght x 9 ! wilds  beyond ! _w kn[n (   
,*9a1 9 ! fabul\s m\nta9s ( ,*u-tzu4    
,he 0 accompani$ by ,*'ang ,yu & ,*ang  
,jo1 & o!rs ( :om ,i "k  no?+2 & ,fang  
,m+1 ( :om ,i "k no?+ also1 0 _!        
*>iote]4 ,:5 !y _h rea*$ ! outside      
wild]ness ^! sev5  sages lo/ _! way4 ,by
 & by !y fell 9 ) a boy :o 0 t5d+       
horses1 & !y ask$ him if he knew !      
,*u-tzu ,m\nta9s4 ,i d1  said ! boy4 ,& 
c y tell u1 said ! sages1 :]e ,tao1 !   
law1 abides8 ,i c1 repli$ ! boy4 ,?is is
 /range1 said !  ,yell[ ,emp]or4 ,pray  
tell me h[ w\ld y gov]n ! empire8    ,i 
%\ld gov]n ! empire1 repli$ ! boy1 9 !  
same way t ,i  t5d my horses4 ,:at else 
%\ld ,i d8 ,:5 ,i 0 a little boy & liv$ 
)9 ! po9ts ( ! compass my eyes grew dim4
 ,an old man advis$ me  to visit !      
wild]ness outside ( ! _w4 ,my sight is  
n[ bett]1  & ,i cont9ue to dwell outside
 ( ! po9ts ( ! compass4 ,i %\ld  gov]n !
 empire 9 ! same way4 ,:at else %\ld ,i 
d8    ,said ! ,yell[ ,emp]or1 ,gov]nm5t 

is n y\r trade1 b ,i %\ld be  glad to   
le>n :at y w\ld d4 ,! boy refus$ to     
answ]1 b be+  urg$ aga91 said3 ,:at     
diff]5ce is !re betwe5 gov]n+ !  empire 
& look+ aft] horses8 ,see t no h>m comes
 to ! horses2  t is all4    ,!reupon !  
emp]or pro/rat$ himself be=e ! boy2 &   
call+ him  div9e tea*]1 took 8 leave4   
,i am writ+ ^! vag>ies by ! s\nd ( !    
wat]fall 9 our g>d52  half ( ! amados   
are clos$2 ! pap] scre5s ne> me ,i h    
left  op51 & ! mo?s & insects ( ! night 
flutt] ar\nd my lamp 9  orbits z unc]ta9
 z ! direction ( my ?\ghts4 ,i h giv5 up
 my  draw+2 x is too hot to "w4 ,& ,i h 
already tir$ myself )  look+ ov] pr9ts &
 designs4 ,among !m !re is a sket* by   
,hokusai  :i* rem9ds me ( ! way 9 :i* my
 m9d be/rides /ray fancies  t float pa/4
 ,! picture is t ( ,tekkai 7! begg>71 ! 
,s5n9  exhal+ 8 spiritual ess5ce 9 a    
%ad[y =m1 :i* %ad[ itself  (t5 rides    
away ^u ! _s horse t ,*okw>o or ,tsuga  
evokes  occasionally f 8 travel+-g\rd4  
,to-day we talk$ ( ! leg5ds ( ^! ,ri%i  

or ,s5n91 ^:  pictures s (t5 come up 9 !
 works ( ,japanese arti/s4    ,ri%i or  
,s5n9 are be+s :o enjoy re/1--t is to   
say1 are exempt  f transmigration1--(t5 
9 ! solitude ( m\nta9s = ?\s&s  ( ye>s1 
aft] :i* delay !y aga9 ent] ! circle (  
*ange4 ,if  !y are m]ely human1 z _m (  
!m are1 !y h obta9$ ?is  *>m (          
immortality1 :i* =ms an important po9t 9
 !  sup]/iti\s beliefs & practices (    
mod]n ,taoism4 ,^! appe> to  h no hold 9
 ,japan1 z !y h 9 ,*9a1 b ^! p]sonages1 
evolutions ( ,taoi/ ?\ght1 live "h at   
lea/ 9 leg5d & 9 art4    ,! orig9al     
my/icism f :i* !y sprung is full (      
beauty & (  p[]4 ,g5]al ,t*5g-ki-tong   
has rec5tly /at$ x well1 :5 he says  t  
,lao ,tz1 its great antique prop\nd]1   
speaks ) ! tone ( a  prophet4 ,he nei!r 
prea*$ nor discuss$1 yet ^? :o w5t to   
him  empty dep>t$ full4 ,he taught !    
doctr9e :i* does n f9d  expression 9    
words1 ! doctr9e ( ,tao1 or ! ,way--a   
doctr9e t  becomes untrue & unpr(itable 
:5 plac$ 9 set =ms & b\nd 9 by  p$antry1

 b :i* all[s tea*+ by p>ables & side    
glimpses &  innu5does z long z !y are   
illum9at$ by t light :i* exi/s 9  !     
natural he>t ( man4 ,& ,i1 too1 am      
pleas$ to let myself be guid$  by ?is   
light4 ,aft] _m ye>s ( wilful en]gy1 (  
=c$ battle t  ,i h n %unn$1 ,i l to try 
! fre%ness ( ! spr+s1 to see  if new    
impressions come z !y once did 9        
*ildhood4 ,) y ,i am  safe 9 /at+ :at   
has come to me f outside4 ,x has come2  
h5ce x  is true3 ,i did n make x4 ,i c  
say ) ! ,%ad[1 p]sonifi$ by my  exp\nd] 
( ! ,way1#d t :5 ! light ( ! fire or !  
sun  appe>s1 !n ,i come =?2 :5 ! night  
comes1 ,i lie /ill3 ,i wait  inde$1 ev5 
z !y wait4 ,!y come & ,i come1 !y g & ,i
 g too4  ,! %ade waits = ! body & = !   
light to appe>1 & all ?+s  :i* rise &   
wait wait ^u ! ,"l1 :o alone waits =    
no?+1  ne$s no?+1 & )\t :om ?+s c nei!r 
rise nor set4 ,!  radiance ( ! l&scape  
illum9ates my room2 ! l&scape does n    
come )94 ,i h become z a blank to be    
fill$4 ,i employ my m9d z  a mirror2 x  

grasps no?+1 x refuses no?+2 x receives1
 b does  n keep4 ,& ?us ,i c triumph ov]
 ?+s )\t injury to myself--,i  am safe 9
 ,tao4         #d ,prm>e's ,notitia ,l+u
 ,s9ic1 #dum exemplum4 ,sic inducit     
,t*\ang-tsee umbram loqu5tem3 ,ego      
quidem exi/o1 s$ nescio qua             
ratione4 ,ego sum veluti cicad>um tunic 
et ,s]p5tis spolia1       etc4 ,if :at  
,i h writt5 is ev] se5 by ,h4 ,b4 ,m4's 
consul       at ,tamsui1 he w p]ceive my
 pres5t indebt$ness to 8 mo/            
admirable translations4                 
,,japanese ,,ar*itecture                
,,nikko1 ,augu/ #b4    ,i fe> t ( all my
 description ! refra9 ( ! words gold &  
bronze w be all t y w reta94 ,h[ c ,i h 
any confid5ce  9 my acc\nt ( any?+ s    
ali51 ^: analysis involves !  necess>y  
misuse ( our t]ms1 bas$ ^u ano!r pa/ 9  
art8--=  words 9 su* cases are only     
explanations or easy mnemonics ( a      
previ\s sight4 ,b soon ,i %all h        
photographs to s5d1 & if ,i c  summon   
c\rage = "w1 9 ?is extreme heat &       

moi/ure1 ,i %all make  "s draw+s4 ,b    
aga91 ^! w\ld n give ! ess5tial reasons 
=  ?+s be+ z !y are2 & :atev] /range    
beauties w\ld be not$1  !y might appe>  
to h happ5$1 if ,i may s say1 & n to h  
gr[n ( necessity4 ,x is s difficult =   
our av]age way ( accept+  ?+s to ?9k (  
:at is call$ ar*itecture )\t expect+    
/ructures ( /one--some?+ solid &        
evid5tly "t-defy+4    ,& yet1 if        
ar*itecture repres5ts ! ne$s ( liv+ ( a 
p1  ! diff]5ces t we see "h w h ! same  
reasonabl5ess t  o!r devices %[ else:]e4
 ,! extreme heat1 ! sudd5 torr5ts (     
ra91 w expla9 ! f>-project+ & curv$     
ro(s1 ! gall]ies  & v]&as1 ! arrangem5ts
 = op5+ or clos+ ! sides (  build+s by  
slid+ scre5s1 :i* all[ an adju/m5t to ! 
heat or  ! damp4 ,b weighti] reasons ?an
 all ^! mu/ h direct$ 9 !  con/ruction (
 su* great build+s z ! temples1 & ,i ?9k
 t1  putt+ aside important race         
influ5ces1 ^! suffici5t reasons w  be   
f\nd 9 ! volcanic nature ( ,japan & its 
frequ5t e>?quakes4  ,:atev] 0 to be     

built mu/ h _h to meet ^! difficult     
problems3  h[ successfully 9 ! pa/ is   
%[n by a p]si/5ce ( _!  build+s :i* to u
 seems extraord9>y1 = _m ( !m are la/+  
yet 9 integrity = n[ ov] a ?\s& ye>s4   
,i speak ( ! influ5ces ( race1 because x
 is evid5t t v _m  traditions1          
prejudices1 & symbolic mean+s are built 
into ^!  =ms1 & t _m ( !m mu/ h come    
?r\gh ! tea*+s (  ,*9a4 ,ev]y:]e ! high]
 ar*itecture1 embodi$ 9 %r9es &         
temples1 is bas$ on "s ideal ne$s1 & n  
ess5tially ^u  necessities2 is1 9 fact1 
a record or expression ( a religi\s idea
 or  my/]y4 ,9 ?is case ,i am too       
pr(\ndly ignorant1 z mo/ ( u are1  to "w
 out orig9s2 b my m9d feels ! sugge/ion 
( an indef9ite  pa/1 t once _h mean+s & 
tea*+s1 j z my eye recognizes 9  ! %ape 
( ! massive temples ! image ( a sacr$   
box1 or ark1 once  to be c>ri$ f place  
to place4 ,!re is1 p]haps1 9 ?is        
direction  a l9e ( /udy = ! m5 to come4 
,l all true art1 ! ar*itecture ( ,japan 
has f\nd 9 !  necessities impos$ ^u x ! 

motives = realiz+ beauty1 & has  adorn$ 
! means by :i* x has conqu]$ !          
difficulties to be  surm\nt$4 ,h5ce no  
f\ndations1 :i* w\ld compromise !       
sup]-impos$ build+ by mak+ x p>ticipate 
9 ! %ock giv5 to  its base4 ,h5ce solid 
p$e/als1 if ,i may s call !m1 or great  
bases1  ^u :i* are plac$ only1 n built  
91 ! po/s :i* support !  edifice1 leav+ 
a space betwe5 ?is base & ! horizontal  
beams or  floors ( ! build+4 ,! build+  
is ?us r5d]$ ela/ic1 &  resumes its     
place aft] ! trembl+ ( ! e>?quake1 & !  
wat]s  ( bad wea!r c escape )\t flood+  
any f\ndations4    ,! great1 heavy1     
curv$ ro(1 f> ov]hang+1 weighs d[n ?is  
/ructure1 & keeps x /raight4 ,an        
app>5tly unreasonable quantity (  adju/$
 timb] & beams supports ! ceil+ & ! ro(4
  ,complicat$1 trem5d\s corbel+s1       
brackets groov$ & dovetail$1  fill !    
cornices z ) a network2 b all ^! play an
 important  practical "p1 & keep ! :ole 
con/ruction ela/ic1 z _! _m  small      
divisions spread ! %ock4    ,/ill m1 9  

su* a build+ z ! *>m+ pagoda at ,iyyas's
  %r9e1 :i* is full "o hundr$ feet high1
 slight-look+ & li!1  ! great beam or   
ma/ :i* makes its c5t] does n support f 
!  base1 b is cut (f at ! f\ndation2 &  
h5ce x acts z a sort (  p5dulum1 its    
great weight bel[ ret>d+ ! movem5t above
 :5 !  e>?quake comes4    ,i h he>d !   
:isp] ( a leg5d say+ t ! ar*itect :o    
devis$ ?is1 to correct ! errors ( a     
rival & p>tn]1 0 poison$  9 due "t1 9   
jeal\s return4 ,= ^? 7 happy times :5   
backbit+ among arti/s took ! m manly =m 
( poison+4    ,n[ besides all ?is1 :i*  
gives only ! reason = ! make (  c]ta9   
p>ts :i* toge!r =m ! unity ( a s+le     
build+1 !re  are o!r pr9ciples be=e u4  
,! relation ( man to nature1 s          
peculi>ly made out 9 ! ,japanese        
beliefs1 is made significant1           
symboliz$1 or typifi$ ?r\gh ! mann] 9   
:i* ^! build+s are  dispos$4 ,a temple  
is n a s+le unity1 z ) u1 its own beg9n+
  & end4 ,a temple is an arrangem5t (   
%r9es & build+s mean+ly  plac$1 (t51 z  

"h1 9 m\nta9s--a ^w synonym\s ) temples2
  ea* %r9e a /atem5t ( "s div9e         
attribute1 & all ^!  build+s spread )   
inf9ite art ov] l>ge spaces1 op51 or    
inclos$  by trees & rocks4 ,! build+s   
are b p>ts ( a :ole4 ,!y are  envelop$  
by nature1 ! pr9ciple & ! adornm5t ( !  
subtle or  my/]i\s mean+ :i* l9ks !m all
 toge!r4    ,besides all ?is is !       
religi\s symbolism und]ly+ or accompany+
  all1 z once ) u1 ( :i* ,i "k too      
little to speak1 b :i* c  be felt &     
occasionally detect$ because ( _m       
repetitions4 ,b ?is  w\ld c>ry me beyond
 my limits2 &1 inde$1 we f9d x v        
difficult  to obta9 any m in=mation f   
our in/ructors1 :e!r !y d n  "k         
securely1 or :e!r !y res]ve x = bett]   
m9ds & wor?i]  appreh5sions4 ,nor d ,i  
object to ?is ,ori5tal secrecy or my/]y1
 z  x adds ! *>m ( ! veil1 :i* is (t5   
ne$$4    ,& ,i %\ld wi% t soon "s "o    
might und]take to make out 9 full  !    
h>mony ( proportions :i* has presid$ ov]
 ^! build+s4 ,x  is evid5t t a delicate 

& probably m9ute sy/em ( relations1  "u 
! appe>ance ( fantasy1 produces "h !    
s5se ( unity t  alone makes "o secure ( 
p]man5t enjoym5t4 ,my in=mation on !    
subject is fragm5t>y3 ,i "k t ! elegant 
columns are 9 a set  relation to ! op5+s
 ( ! temple2 t ! %ape ( ^! same  columns
 is 9 ano!r relation to _! exquisite    
details2 t !  raft]s play an important  
"p1 det]m9+ ! fir/ dep>ture4 ,i h  se5  
c>p5t]'s draw+s1 ) mann]s ( sett+ out "w
 &  measurem5ts1 & ,i feel t !re is only
 a /udy to c>ry out4    ,nor is my wi%  
m]e curiosity1 or ! int]e/ ( !          
antiqu>ian4 ,:at  we ne$ to-day is      
belief & confid5ce 9 simil> me?ods1 )\t 
:i* !re is no?+ = ourselves b a haphaz>d
 success2 no  connection ) ! et]nal &   
inevitable pa/1 & none ) a future1  :i* 
may *ange our mat]ials1 b w nev] *ange  
our human ne$ =  h>mony & ord]4    ,y h 
he>d ( ! little g>d5s1 & ( _! exquisite 
details1  9 :i* ! ,japanese makes an    
epitome ( nature1 arrang$ z if = "o  ( 8
 microscopic jewels ( metals1 ivory1 or 

lacqu]4    ,"h 9 our own g>d5 !re w\ld  
seem no call = an artificial  nature4 ,!
 m\nta9 slope on :i* we live mu/ h      
always be5  beautiful ( itself2 b = all 
t1 our g>d5--t is to say1 !  space ab\t 
our l&lord's h\se & our own--has be5    
treat$ )  extreme c>e4 ,our inclosure is
 fram$ t[>ds ! great temple groves1  & !
 great m\nta9s beh9d !m1 by a high wall 
( rock1 ov] :i*1  at a corn] edg$ )     
moss1 rolls a torr5t1 mak+ a wat]fall t 
breaks ?ree times4 ,! pool bel[1 edg$ ) 
iris t gr[ 9 !  g>d5 s&1 is cross$ by a 
bridge ( ?ree big flat /ones1 &  empties
 secretly away4 ,on ea* side ( ! fall1  
plant$ 9 ! rock  wall1 /&s a ?ick-set   
paul[nia1 ) great /eady leaves1 &  b5d+ 
t[>ds x a will[1 ^: bran*es drop f> bel[
 itself &  sw+ p]petually 9 ! draught ( 
! wat]fall4 ,bun*es ( p9k  azalea gr[ 9 
! holl[s ( ! rocks1 & _! reflections    
r$d5  ! eddies ( ! pool4 ,/eps :i* seem 
natural lead up ! wall (  rock2 old p9es
 gr[ aga9/ x1 & our feet pass ?r\gh _!  
upp]mo/ bran*es4 ,on ! top is plant$ a  

monum5tal /one1 & f  !re a little pa?   
runs along1 lead+ n[h]e n[adays1 z f> z 
,i  c make out4 ,i am "r 9 call+ ?is    
mass ( rock1 :i* is a spur  ( ! m\nta9's
 slope1 a wall2 = ,i look d[n f its top 
to !  next inclosure f> bel[1 n[ ov]gr[n
 & wild4 ,:at is natural &  :at 0 made  
by man has become s bl5d$ toge!r1 or has
 always be5  s1 t ,i c *oose to look at 
x z my mood may be1 & feel !  repose (  
nature or enjoy ! dispos+ *oice ( art4  
,:]e ! little bridge crosses ov]1 & :]e 
mossy rocks dip d[n a  little to all[ a 
passage1 edg$ by a maple & a p9e1 ,i    
look ov]  across ! hidd5 road to a      
des]t$ ya%iki1 ) "o bla/$ tree1  all    
ov]gr[n ) gre5 & melt+ into di/ances (  
trees :i*1 ti]  beh9d ti]1 rea* to a    
little conical hill1 t is divid$ &      
subdivid$ by %eets ( mi/ at e *ange (   
heat & damp1 s t ,i  feel half z if ,i  
knew its =ms p]fectly--half z if ,i c\ld
 nev] get  !m all by he>t4    ,9 ! s& ( 
our little g>d5 are set out clumps (    
fl[]s1  *rysan!mum mo/ly1 & occasionally

 iris & azalea2 & ! two  h\ses make its 
o!r two sides4 ,! prie/'s h\se1 an old  
"o1 )  l>ge ?at*$ ro( project+ 9 front &
 support$ !re by po/s  cov]$ ) creep]s1 
is ne>] ! wat]4 ,i see ! little prie/ ) 
8 "y neophyte curl$ on ! mats 9 ! big   
front room ^: :ole  face is op52 :ile 9 
a break1 or w+1 is ! op5+ to ! practical
  h\sekeep] side ( ! dwell+4    ,our own
 h\se1 :i* faces s\? l ! prie/'s1       
completes !  squ>e1 z ,i said4 ,x is    
edg$ on ! outside by a small plantation 
(  trees ) no "*1 t /ret* away to ! back
 road & to a  wall t]rac+ a high] gr\nd 
beh9d4 ,!re a wide space ov]gr[n )      
bu%es & h]bage1 t cov] =m] c>e & beauty1
 spreads out  indef9itely t[>d conical  
hills hot 9 ! sun1 beh9d :i* rises !    
great volcanic slope ( ,nio-ho4 ,a      
little temple %r9e1 r$1 :ite1 &  gold1  
/&s 9 ?is heat ( sunlight & makes cool] 
yet ! violets  & t5d] gre5s ( ! great   
slopes4 ,?is is to ! nor?4 ,:5 ,i look  
t[>d ! we/ ,i see broad spaces brok5 up 
by trees1 & ! corn] (  ,iyyas's temple  

wall half hidd5 by ! gigantic c$>s1 & z 
,i  write1 late 9 ! aft]noon1 ! blue    
peak ( ,nan-tai-san r\nd$ (f  l a globe 
by ! yell[ mi/4    ,! g>d51 embosom$ 9  
?is va/ness ( nature1 feels small1 z    
?\gh x 7 meant to be s4 ,e "p is on a   
small scale1 & ne$s  few h&s to keep ?+s
 9 ord]4 ,we h a little f\nta9 9 !      
middle ( ! g>d51 :i* gives ! wat] = our 
ba?1 & s5ds a  noisy /ream roll+ ?r\gh !
 wood5 tr\gh ( ! wa%-room4 ,!  f\nta9 is
 made by a bucket plac$ ^u two big      
/ones1 set 9 a bas91  along ^: edge gr[ 
! iris1 /ill 9 bloom4 ,a hidd5 pipe     
fills !  bucket1 & a long1 gre5 bamboo  
makes a conduit = ! wat] ?r\gh  ! wood5 
side ( our h\se4 ,) ano!r bamboo we tap 
! wat] =  our ba?4 ,9 ! e>ly morn+ ,i   
sit 9 ! ba?-room & pa9t ?is  little     
picture ?r\gh ! op5 side1 :ile ,a----1  
up/airs 9 !  v]&a1 is read+ 9 ,dante's  
,p>adiso1 & c see1 :5 he looks  up1 !   
great temple ro( ( ! ,buddhi/           
,mangwanji4    ,occasionally ! good lady
 :o takes c>e ( our prie/'s h\se dur+  8

 weeks ( s]vice at ! temple ( ,iymits   
salutes me :ile at my  ba?1 = ! heat+ ( 
:i* h] s]vant has suppli$ ! *>coal4  ,%e
 is already dress$ = ! day1 & 9 h] black
 silk robe walks  across ! g>d5 to dip  
h] too?bru% 9 ! runn+ wat] ( !  cascade4
 ,!n 9 a desultory way %e trims ! plants
 & breaks (f  dead leaves1 & lat] !     
g>d5] appe>s & att5ds to "o ?+  aft]    
ano!r1 ev5 climb+ up into ! old p9e     
tree1 tak+ c>e (  x z he does ( !       
sweet-peas2 & ,i recall ! ,japanese     
g>d5] :om  ,i knew at our ,exposition ( 
#ahgf1 z ,i saw him = ! la/ "t1  /ret*$ 
on ! gr\nd1 fann+ ! op5+ leaves ( "s    
plant t  gave him anxiety4    ,?us !    
,japanese g>d5 c be made ( v slight     
mat]ials1 & is  occasionally r$uc$ to   
sc>cely any?+1 ev5 to a little s& & a   
few /ones laid out accord+ to a def9ite 
ideal ( mean+4 ,a  ref]5ce to nature1 a 
recall ( ! g5]al pr9ciples ( all        
l&scapes1--( a =egr\nd1 a di/ance1 & a  
middle di/ance2 t is  to say1 a little  
picture1--is en\gh4 ,:5 !y _c deal ) !  

?+ itself--:5 !y d1 !y d x              
consummately--!y h ano!r  ideal :i* is n
 s mu* ! mak+ ( a real ?+ z ! mak+ ( a  
picture ( x4 ,h5ce ! scale c be dim9i%$1
 )\t detrim5t 9  _! eyes1 until x       
becomes lilliputian to ours4 ,all ?is ,i
 take to be  an inh]itance f ,*9a1      
modifi$ t[>d simplicity4 ,i d n "k to   
:at type our little g>d5 belongs4 ,= !y 
h 9 _! arrangem5ts  mann]s ( express+   
ideas ( association1 draw+ !m f nature  
itself1 or br++ !m out by ref]5ces to   
tradition or hi/ory1 s  t ,i am told t  
!y aim to express delicate mean+s :i* a 
,we/]n imag9ation c h>dly grasp2 types1 
= in/ance1 convey+ !  ideas ( peace &   
*a/ity1 quiet old age1 connubial        
happ9ess1 & !  sweetness ( solitude4    
,does ?is make y laugh1 or does x t\*   
y--or bo?8 ,i wi% ,i knew m ab\t x1 = ,i
 am sure t !re is  mu* to say4    ,i h  
spok5 ( simplicity4 ,! dome/ic          
ar*itecture is z simple1 z  transitory1 
z if x symboliz$ ! life ( man4 ,y c see 
x all 9  ! draw+s1 9 ! lacqu]s1 & x has 

rec5tly be5 treat$  completely 9 ! *>m+ 
book ( ,pr(essor ,morse4 ,)91 !         
,japanese  h\se is simplicity itself2   
all is framework1 & mov+ scre5s in/ead  
( wall4 ,no accumulations1 no           
bric--brac2 any lady's draw+-room )  u w
 conta9 m odds & ends ?an all t ,i h yet
 se5  toge!r 9 ,japan4 ,! res]v$ place (
 honor1 a sort ( ni*e 9 !  wall1 !      
suppos$ seat ( an ideal gue/1 has ^u its
 b5* "s  *oice image on a /&1 or a vase 
) elegant disposal ( fl[]s or  plants1 &
 above x ! hang+ roll ) draw+ or        
inscription4  ,p]haps "s o!r inscription
 or v]se1 or a few words on a tablet ^u 
"s cross-beam1 & p]haps a small fold+   
scre54 ,o!rwise all works  ( art are put
 aside 9 ! firepro( /ore-h\se1 to be    
br\ght out on  occasions4 ,! woodwork is
 z simple z x c be--occasionally1 "s    
beautiful jo9]y2 always1 :5 x c be      
af=d$1 exquisite  workman%ip2 &1 above  
all1 exquisite cleanl9ess4 ,= !re are no
  b$s--only wadd$ cov]lets & ! little   
wood5 pill[1 :i* does n  di/urb !       

complicat$ fem99e coiffure 9 ! languors 
( ! night4  ,no tables2 food is laid on 
! cleanly mats1 9 _m trays & di%es4  ,no
 *airs2 ! same mats t s]ve = b$/ead &   
table s]ve =  seats )1 p]haps1 a cu%ion 
add$4    ,& ?is is all ! same = all1 f  
emp]or's palace to little  tradesman's  
cottage4 ,!re is no?+1 app>5tly1 b :at  
is  necess>y1 & ref9em5t 9 dispos+ ( t4 
,! result is sometimes  cold & b>e4 ,!re
 is ! set look ( insi/+ ^u an idea--!   
idea  ( do+ ) little3 a noble "o1       
c]ta9ly2 z1 = in/ance1 :5 !  emp]or's   
palace at ,kioto is adorn$ m]ely by !   
highe/ c>e 9  workman%ip & by ! names ( 
! arti/s :o pa9t$ ! scre5  walls--9     
solit>y contradiction to ! spl5dor &    
pomp ( all  absolute rul]s1 no /oreh\se 
= ! wa/$ money ( ! p1 b  an example ( ! 
economy :i* %\ld att5d ! life ( ! rul]4 
,x  is possible t :5 ,i return ,i %all  
feel /ill m di/a/e = !  b>b>\s          
accumulations 9 our h\ses1 & recall ! f>
 m civiliz$  empt9ess p]si/$ 9 by ! m   
e/hetic race4          ,,bric--,,brac   

,,nikko1 ,augu/ #ab4    ,i ne$ n tell y 
t ! p]vad+ mann] ( sp5d+ "t & money  is 
always )9 our rea*4 ,we d n g aft] !    
own] & sell] (  bric--brac2 he comes to 
u4    ,com+ f af>1--f ,tokio1 a hundr$  
miles away1 & f ,ozaka1  f\r times t    
di/ance1--bales ( m]*&ise are unload$ at
 our  door1 or at our fri5ds' = u4      
,pati5t pack-horses /& 9 !  inclosure ( 
! y>ds2 big p>cels1 & piles ( boxes &   
bundles1  encumb] ! v]&as4 ,we>y h\rs1  
beg9n+ ) excitem5t & end+  ) g5tle      
disappo9tm5t1 are sp5t 9 indecision (   
judgm5t &  unc]ta9ty ( pur*ase4 ,b !re  
rema9s always at ! bottom ( !  boxes a  
delusive hope1 & "s treasure may p]haps 
rew>d our  pati5ce4    ,& !n1 besides   
occasional beauties 9 color or design1  
!re is  some?+ 9 look+ ov] all ^! dbris 
( civilization 9 _! own  home2 & odds & 
ends1 hav+ n mu* m excuse = !mselves ?an
  t !y rema91 help to expla9 ei!r ! art 
or ! habits ( !  c\ntry1 or its hi/ory1 
or ! nature we see ab\t u4 ,we h f\nd   
almo/ no?+ among ! ?+s br\ght u :i* c   

rank z "w (  high art1 & ,i am afraid t 
we mu/ be look$ d[n ^u by our  fri5ds = 
pur*ases :i* h no excuse 9 any l(ty     
e/hetic code4  ,b !y h ! *>m ( be+ !re1 
& ( expla9+1 & 9  ano!r way ( tea*+1 ev5
 :5 !y are bad1 & (t5 because !y  are   
bad4 ,because _! v pov]ty helps to a    
classification & to an  analysis ( !    
means ?r\gh :i* ! arti/ work$1 & to a  k
 ( ! preval5t subjects & arrangem5ts :i*
 he f\nd  ready to 8 h&1 bequea!d to him
 by an e>li] & nobl] *oice4    ,f all   
?is poor /uff exhales ! fad$ sc5t ( a   
great] art &  ref9em5t1 :i* is n[       
invisible1 or de/roy$1 or subsi/+ only 9
  fragm5ts1 difficult ( access1 or :i*  
are f> away4 ,& !re is a  peculi> unity 
9 ! arts ( ! extreme ,ea/4 ,we mu/      
rememb] t  ?is v s5sitive ,japanese race
 has develop$ 9 its art1 z 9  ev]y?+1   
)\t be+ subject$ to ! _m direct &       
contradictory  influ5ces :i* h made our 
,we/]n art & civilization4 ,!re h  be5  
"h1 )9 hi/oric times1 no va/ invasions (
 ali5 races1  br++ o!r ways = ev]y?+ 9  

?\ght & 9 life1 & oblig+  an already    
complex civilization to be begun ov] &  
ov] aga9 on  readju/$ bases2 no high]   
liv+ & advanc$ ?\ght oblig$ to yield  = 
times & half times1 until ! gross]      
flames ( en]gy c\ld be  purifi$2 no     
de?ronem5t1 )9 society tri$ by e o!r    
calamity1  ( ! old primeval fai?4       
,in/ead ( a tempe/ ( ta/es & mann]s (   
feel+ bl[+ f e qu>t]1 & 9 :i* ! crud]   
dislikes  h held = c5turies ! balance   
aga9/ cultur$ lik+s &  devotion1 ,japan 
has be5 c>ri$ on 9 "o curr5t1 9 :i* h   
m+l$1 s z to bl5d1 ! /eady influ5ces ( !
 two mo/  cons]vative civilizations (   
,india & ( ,*9a4    ,all "h to-day1 & = 
f> back1 is int]wov5 ) ,*9ese ?\ght1    
breaks ?r\gh x1 returns to x1 runs      
alongside ( x4 ,& ?r\gh  ,buddhism1 its 
f]vor1 its capacity = tak+ up 9 its     
c\rse b\ld]s  ( o!r cre$s or habits1 a  
some?+ diff]5t1 high] 9 aspiration  & 9 
=m1 has liv$ ) ev]y?+ else & affect$    
all4    ,?is impressionable race f\nd1  
contra/+ ) & support+ its  nature1      

secure1 /eady1 undeviat+ guides1 s t ^! 
=eign ideals  h p]si/$ "h ) a           
transplant$ life4 ,9 fact1 x is possible
 to  look to ,japan to f9d some?+ ( :at 
anci5t ,*9a 04 ,s mu* (  :at has "h be5 
done1 z _! language does to-day1 saves =
 u a  h9t or a reflection ( ! great     
,*9ese ages1 :5 ,*9a _h n yet  be5      
conqu]$ by ! =eign]1 & :5 en]gies       
app>5tly unkn[n to  ! ,*9a ( to-day     
fl\ri%$ ) ! /r5g? ( y\?4 ,! art &       
lit]ature ( ,japan1 !re=e1 repres5t 9   
great "p ! ,*9ese  prototype--an orig9al
 :i* = u has practically disappe>$4 ,we 
_c easily "k :at arrangem5ts &          
compositions1 :at free  int]pretations (
 ! _w1 or sev]e imitations ( nature1 !  
old  ,*9ese adopt$1 b !y are reflect$ or
 cont9u$ 9 ! /yles &  subjects &        
treatm5ts ( :at we call ,japanese4 ,!   
limits &  def9itions ( ea* may be cle>  
to ! ,japanese critic1 b to our  casual 
,we/]n eye !y m]ge or d]ive "o f ! o!r1 
l "s  little-kn[n /reams :i* make "o    
riv]4    ,almo/ all ! arrangem5ts t we  

"k s well on ,japanese draw+s1  scre5s1 
bronzes1 lacqu]s1 ivories1 etc41 h      
,*9ese prototypes4 ,&  all ?is is ov] & 
above ! con/ant use ( ,*9ese leg5d1 &   
/ory1 & philosophy1 :i* are to ,japan   
:at ,greece & ,rome us$ to  be to u--a  
/oreh\se ( associat$ mean+s & examples4 
,w\ld x amuse y if ,i made out "s ( !   
types t y see8    ,"h are ! p9e-tree & !
 /ork1 emblems ( long life2 or !  bamboo
 & ! sp>r[1 :i* typify ! mildness &     
g5tl5ess (  nature4    ,! will[ waves 9 
! w9d to & fro1 & ! swall[s sw+ =?  &   
back aga94    ,! names ( ,color & (     
,love are jo9$ by a simil>ity ( s\nd1 & 
probably by a my/ic association3 & s y w
 see ^u ! scre5s  t ! leaves ( ! maple  
turn r$ 9 autumn1 :5 ! /ag calls !  doe4
 ,! *]ry-blossom's spl5dor is = %[1 l ! 
pheasant's  plumage4    ,long c5turies  
ago ! plum became ! poet's tree1 because
 ( an e>ly  poet's v]ses2 & ! night+ale1
 also a s+] & a poet1 is  associat$ ) ! 
tree4    ,! tig] hid+ 9 ! jungle has a  
backgr\nd ( bamboo1 z ! ox5  h !        

pea*-tree1 f an old ,*9ese s5t5ce3 ,turn
 ! horse loose  on ! fl[]-cov]$ m\nta91 
& ! ox into ! or*>d ( pea*es4    ,! cock
 /&s on ! unus$ w>-drum1 :i* is a ,*9ese
 symbol (  good gov]nm5t1 ! aim ( :i* is
 peace4    ,or1 aga91 leg5ds & /ories   
are ref]r$ to4    ,! cuckoo flies across
 ! cresc5t ( ! moon1 & ! /ory (         
,yorimasa is call$ up1 :o slew ) b[ &   
arr[ ! my/]i\s  mon/] t _h torm5t$ !    
life ( ! ,mikado ,n>ihito4 ,i despair ( 
tell+ ! /ory )\t great wa/e ( words1 &  
,i half-regret hav+  *os5 ! example2 b1 
p]haps1 x is all ! m ,japanese = its    
complication4    ,y mu/ "k t !          
,mikado--?is 0 ab\t ! ye> #aaec--;_h be5
  ill night aft] night ) t]rible        
nightm>es1 to ! confusion (  8 num]\s   
doctors2 & t 8 _m fem99e att5dants _h   
done  all !y c\ld to soo! him1 to no    
avail4 ,e night1 at ! h\r (  ! ,bull    
7two ,a4 ,m41 an h\r :5 evil p[] is     
great71 ! dovecote  0 flutt]$ by ?is    
fe>ful visitation4 ,b1 at l5g?1 ei!r  ^!
 g5tle dames or o!r wat*]s notic$ t be=e

 ea* access  a cl\d _h drift$ ov] !     
palace1 & t1 re/+ j above !             
sleep+-ap>tm5ts1 two lights %one out f !
 d>k mass4 ,!n !  bells ( ! city temples
 s\nd$ ! h\r ( ! ,bull4 ,! g5tlem5  ( ! 
palace & ! imp]ial gu>ds 7 set on wat*1 
! prie/s  pray$ to w>d (f ! evil        
influ5ce2 b uselessly4 ,!n ,yorimasa--a 
brave w>rior1 a fam\s ar*]1 "o ( !      
gu>ds--0 all[$1 or  ord]$1 to try to    
de/roy ! evil ?+1 :atev] x might be4    
,he1  ) a foll[]1 wat*$ nightly until ! 
d>k cl\d & ! %9+  orbs 7 ne>1 :5 ! great
 b[ ( ,yorimasa 0 dis*>g$1 & a  /range &
 wond]ful bea/ fell bl9d$ to ! gr\nd4   
,! sword ( ,yorimasa despat*$ x 9 n9e   
sep>ate bl[s1 & !  ?+1--said to h _h    
some?+ ( ! monkey1 ! tig]1 & !          
s]p5t1--0 burn$ to a%es4 ,= ?is         
,yorimasa 0 giv5 ! girl he  lov$1 !     
,lady ,iris-fl[] 7:o1 !re=e1 _h n wat*$ 
9 va971  & ) h] ! celebrat$ sword call$ 
,%i%9o-o 7,k+ ( ,wild  ,bo>s74 ,n[ !    
imp]ial deputy1 z he pres5t$ ?is sword  
to ,yorimasa1  tri$ him ) a punn+ v]se1 

:ile a cuckoo sang4 ,?is is :at !  v]se 
said3    ,! cuckoo above ! cl\ds1 h[    
does x m\nt8 ,b x meant1 ,l  ! cuckoo to
 so> s high1 h[ is x s8 ,to :i*         
,yorimasa answ]$1  fill+ 9 ! necess>y   
c\plet1 ,! wan+ moon sets n at w1  :i*  
might also mean1 9 mode/ disclaim] (    
ambiti\s ef=t1 ,only  my b[ ,i b5t2 t   
alone s5t ! %aft4 ,& s ?is moon /&s 9  !
 picture1 z 9 ! v]ses1 = ! b5t b[ (     
,yorimasa4    ,x is a %ort] /ory1 t :i* 
makes ! allusion 9 ! type ( !           
*rysan!mum & ! fox4 ,x is a v>iation ( !
 p]petual /ory4 ,!  pr9ce royal ( ,india
 _h a lovely mi/ress1 :o _h bewit*$ him1
 &  :o fell asleep "o day 9 a b$ (      
*rysan!mums1 :]e h] lov] %ot  at & w\nd$
 a fox 9 ! =ehead4 ,! ble$+ temple ( !  
girl  discov]$ ! evil animal %e really  
04 ,= ! fox1 z 9 ,*9a1 is  9 ,japan a   
wick$ animal1 capable ( ev]y?+ 9 ! way (
  trans=mation & sugge/ion4    ,!re are 
endless /ories ab\t him1 & ! belief or  
sup]/ition is  /ill v /rong4 ,o---- 0   
talk+ to u lately ab\t ! scorc]]s  &    

spiritual m$iums & =tune-tell]s1 &1 z an
 explanation ( !  p[] ( "s m$ium1 told u
 t he claim$ to h 9 8 s]vice  tame      
foxes4 ,only1 :5 ,i ask$ :]e !y might be
 lodg$ 9 ! little  city h\se1 he expla9$
 t !y 7 n liv+ 9 ! body1 &  !re=e       
cumb]some1 b 7 ! spirits ( foxes1 ?us   
subs]vi5t1  & able to p5etrate ev]y:]e &
 report4    ,! badg] also is a mislead+ 
creature1 & ! cat is consid]$  unc]ta94 
,or take ! way 9 :i* ,hokusai ref]s to  
anci5t /ory :51 at !  end ( "o ( 8      
books1 he makes a picture ( ! devot$    
knight ,kojima  ,takanori clad 9 armor1 
cov]$ ) ! peasant's ra9-cloak2 & he is  
writ+ on ! trunk ( ! *]ry-tree ! message
 ( w>n+ = 8  ma/]1 ! ,emp]or ,g-,daigo  
,t5no4 ,b in/ead ( ! old v]se1  ,hokusai
 has put3 ,9 ! six? ye> ( ! era ,tempo1 
9 ! mon? (  ,april1 my sev5ty-six? ye>1 
?is is writt5 by me1 =m]ly by "n        
,hokusai1 b n[ m correctly kn[n z ',!   
,old ,man gone ,mad =  ,pa9t+4'    ,"h  
,i h be5 w&]+ into ,japan1 :ile my !me 0
 r !  p]si/5ce ( ,*9ese subjects1 or (  

subjects connect$ ) ,*9a1  ! li/ ( :i*  
w\ld be endless1 f ,%oki1 ! devil-kill]1
  hunt+ 8 prey ( imps ov] sword-gu>ds & 
r\nd ! corn]s (  boxes1 to pictures (   
aphorisms1 su* z ?is say+ ( ,confucius1 
(  :i* ,i f\nd a draw+ ye/]day3 ,avoid  
ev5 ! appe>ance ( evil2  d n /op to tie 
y\r %oes 9 ! melon-pat* ( an enemy4 ,& s
  ^! innum]able subjects are common     
prop]ty1 & s]ve z a field  = ! arti/ to 
try to be himself1 to br+ out ! /ory or 
"p (  x1 or 8 way ( look+ at x1 or its  
decorative capacity1 or any way  (      
an*or+ ! ,japanese imag9ation4 ,i _c say
 t = _m ( !  ord9>y arrangem5ts1 ! mo/  
simple & conv5tional1 "o does n  (t5    
suff] ! bor$om ( repetition1 z we d at  
home1 ) ! eagle  & ! />s1 & armorial    
be>+s1 & ! /]eotyp$ symbolism (  *ur*es4
 ,b x suffices to see ! ?+ well done    
aga91 to />t  once m into "s new        
enjoym5t ( ! *oice ( subject4    ,s !re 
c exi/ ) reg>d to ^! subjects1 app>5tly 
m]e  motives ( =m1 & p>tly because !y   
are conv5tional1 a deep]  conv5tion or  

mean+1 m or less visible to ! arti/ :5  
at "w1  accord+ to 8 temp]am5t or 8     
s*ool1 z 9 our poetry1 :]e an  idea may 
or may n be ov]laid ) reali/ic or       
e/hetic decoration4    ,i rea* out = !  
fir/ design t my h& c f9d1 :i* turns out
  to be a draw+ by ,*9-nan-p94 ,i h *os5
 at haphaz>d1 b !  *oice is p]haps all !
 bett]4 ,we %all h no example ( a great 
man to deal )1 b m]ely ! "w ( a         
rem>kable ,*9aman :o1  some:]e 9 ! e>ly 
eighte5? c5tury1 happ5$ to come to      
,japan1 or  to be born !re1 s z to fit  
into a c]ta9 ,*9omania !n preval5t4  ,! 
photograph t ,i s5d y is a poor "o4 ,y c
 m]ely disc]n !  patt]n1 or :at might be
 call$ ! masses1 ( ! design4 ,a horse is
  ti$ to a tree1--a horse ( ,japan1--& a
 monkey slides d[n ! trunk  & clut*es at
 ! halt] t prev5ts escape4 ,i ne$ n ask 
y to  admire ! /eal?y & yet confid5t /ep
 ( ! ape1 & ! motions  & repugnance &   
fright ( ! horse4 ,i don't ?9k t !y c\ld
 be  bett] giv54 ,)al1 !re is a gravity 
( g5]al outl9e &  appe>ances1 & a       

pleasantly manag$ balance ( ! full &    
empty  spaces4 ,b ^! decorative po9ts   
are n ^? ,i wi% to ref] to  j n[4       
,:at ,i wi% to indicate n[ is t ?is     
subject1 :i* might h  suit$ a ,dut*man =
 realism & = its *oice ( ! accid5tal1 w 
mean1 if y wi% to see x1 ! natural      
resi/ance & /ruggle ( !  inf]ior nature 
aga9/ a sup]ior ma/]y :i* x does n      
und]/&1  & :i* at fir/ appe>s caprici\s 
& unreasonable4 ,)\t be+  q c]ta9 ( !   
accuracy ( my def9ition1 ,i "k t !      
design  is bas$ ^u a l conv5tion4       
,illu/ration3 ,,pa9t+ ,,by              
,,*9-,,nan-,,p94    ,?is may n be       
spirituality1 b h[ f> x is f :at we call
  realism1 & h[ wise ! acceptance by !  
arti/ ( a conv5tion :i*  all[s him to   
give all 8 en]gies to a new             
int]pretation1 ?r\gh 8  own /udy (      
nature6 ,z ) ^? :o h *os5 di/9ctly      
religi\s  subjects1 & ^: vitality &     
p]sonality c triumph & coexi/  ) !      
abs5ce ( novelty 9 ! !me1 s ! arti/ 9 m 
ord9>y  subjects may be wise 9 keep+ to 

!mes :i* are kn[n to ^? :om  he         
addresses1 & 9 :i* !y c fully grasp &   
enjoy 8 success4  ,^! g5]al !mes all[ a 
/rict] individuality 9 ! arti/ :o  uses 
!m1 :5 he is capable1 & make 8 want (   
individuality  tol]able1 & ev5 laudable 
& pleasant1 :51 l mo/ ( u1 he has       
little ( 8 own4 ,!n he c nev] be s      
(f5sive if we d n l  him4 ,^? t we d n l
 are (t5 (f5sive because _!  p]sonal    
vanity appe>s ^u a solid gr\nd ( _! own 
/upidity4  ,p]haps ?is is :y ! ,japanese
 objet d'art nev] (f5ds1 at lea/  9 !   
old] "w done "u ! g5]al influ5ces t h   
obta9$  ) ! race4    ,h5ce1 also1 _!    
a/oni%+ v>iety4 ,a ?\s& times1 _m ?\s&  
times1 y w h se5 ! same subject1 b nev] 
! same  r5d]+1 nev] ! same object1 twice
 repeat$4 ,t is to say1 t  :5ev] x is   
wor? :ile we c get at ! mo/ valuable &  
co/ly  "p ( ! "w ( art1 ! humanity t    
made x1 ! love (  some?+ t w5t ) ! "w4  
,x is ?is t makes ! my/]y (  ! *>m (    
innum]able little pieces ( old] "w1 l ! 
metal-"w t belongs to ! old swords1 any 

"o ( :i* is sup]ior  to any?+ t we d1   
unless 9 ! r>e cases :5 we br+ 9 !      
exp5sive life ( a great ma/] to rival   
x--"s "p ( ! "w left  by a ,b>ye1 a     
,cell9i1 a ,pisano4    ,all t our great 
m5 h done is exactly opposite to !      
t5d5cy (  our mod]n "w1 & is bas$ on !  
same gr\nd t ! ,japanese has  liv$ &    
work$ on--i4 e41 ! reality & n !        
appe>ance1 !  execution & n !           
proposition ( a !me4 ,! :ole pr9ciple is
  involv$ 9 ! analysis (1 say1 a        
successful /udy f nature--a  beautiful  
pa9t+1 = in/ance1 ( a beautiful sky4 ,9 
su* a case !  subject is all provid$2 ! 
importance ( ! result dep5ds ^u !       
arti/'s s5sitiv5ess to ! facts suppli$  
to him1 ^u 8 use ( 8  h]$it>y & acquir$ 
me?ods ( record+ !m1 & ^u 8 p]sonal     
v>iation ( ^? me?ods4 ,no "o dreams (   
prais+ ! art ( ! sky  itself1 t is to   
say1 ! fact t ! facts exi/$2 to praise !
  arti/ = ! ?+ hav+ occurr$ f :i* he    
work$4 ,x is ?is  app>5t want (         
compreh5sion ( ! fir/ pr9ciples ( !     

pla/ic  arts 9 our poor "w1 & 9 a va/   
proportion ( our be/1 t makes  any      
reasonable man a pessimi/ z to our ne>  
future4 ,e poor elem5t  ( our           
civilization is aga9/ x1 & our influ5ces
 are n[  det]iorat+ ! art ( ,japan4 ,we 
value mat]ial or ! body in/ead (        
workman%ip or ! "r use ( ! body2 &      
in/ead ( /yle &  design1 ! intellect & !
 he>t4 ,to u a gold object seems        
spiritually preci\s1 & we hesitate at   
work+ 9 o!r ?an co/ly  mat]ials4 ,to !  
,japanese workman wood & gold h be5 no?+
 b  ! means to an end4 ,we _h r n d     
any?+ ?an d any?+ n  endur+1 s t :5 our 
mat]ials are difficult1 ! life has fl[n 
t 0 to animate !m2 ! ,japanese is will+ 
to build a tempor>y  ar*itecture1 & make
 a tempor>y lacqu]1 :i* holds m beauty &
  art ?an we to-day manage to get 9     
granite or 9 metal4    ,& :5 ! ,ori5tal 
workman takes ! h>de/ surfaces ( /eel or
 (  jade1 he has _h ! prep>ations = us+ 
x ) ma/]y2 x is aga9  pla/ic & yield+ = 
him1 z ! less abid+ mat]ials h be5      

be=e4 ,nor w\ld ! ,japanese arti/ und]/&
 ! po9t ( view (  _m ( our m51 :o d _!  
be/ to put an end to all art1 s lo/ are 
!y 9 our vanity ( adv]tisem5t4 ,!       
,japanese w\ld nev] h  inv5t$ ! idea (  
do+ poorly ! "w "o is =c$ to d to live1 
s z to res]ve va/ en]gy = m important or
 influ5tial "w t  might draw att5tion to
 him4 ,! great] "p ( our decoration is  
c>ri$ out j ! contr>y way to 84 ,our    
arti/s accept z a  mom5t>y curse ! fact 
t to live !y may h to draw patt]ns1 or  
"w 9 glass1 or pa9t or model subsidi>y  
ornam5tation4 ,!y look  =w>d to !       
glori\s "t :5 !y may wreak _! l(ty s\ls 
9  ! dignity ( pa9t mix$ ) ! sacr$ l9se$
 oil1 or 9 ! /atue  done 9 bronze or    
c>v$ 9 m>ble by o!r h&s ?an !irs4 ,& yet
  if _! nature be n too f> remov$ f     
ours1 ! habit ( do+  less ?an _! be/1 ! 
habit ( do+ poorly1 ! scorn ( any?+  b !
 f9e clo!s ( a f9e mat]ial1 w nev] be   
gott5 ov]1 &  ?r\gh\t ?is little        
*eapness ( s\l1 ?is ess5tial            
snobbi%ness1  w be felt to puzzle &     

disconc]t ^? :o wi% to admire4    ,t is 
to say1 t !y too (t5 d n look to ! end1 
b to !  means1 :ile to ! arti/ ! means  
are a m]e pa?--z ) !  ,greeks1 ^: "w w  
live1 ev5 if its v physical exi/5ce is  
oblit]at$1 because x is built 9 ! m9d1 9
 ! et]nity (  ?\ght4 ,s ,greek art      
exi/$1 & has liv$1 & lives1 ! mo/       
fl\ri%+ & ri*e/ t we "k (--) less to    
repres5t x ?an  we turn out daily4 ,s x 
liv$1 :5 x _h no long] any?+ ( its  own 
body to repres5t x1 9 ev]y?+ t 0 done 9 
e c\ntry  :i* kept its lessons2 & lives 
/ill1 )\t examples to ref] to1  ev5 into
 ! v pa9t+ ( to-day4 ,x is ! pr9ciple ( 
! prop]  place ( means t makes ! little 
piece ( ,japanese metal-"w--=  in/ance1 
! sword-gu>d or ! knife-h&le--an epitome
 ( art1  c]ta9ly a great] "w ( art ?an  
any mod]n ca!dral4 ,& z  c]ta9ly we %all
 nev] ev5 produce good ord9>y ornam5tal 
"w  until we feel ! tru? t ,i h lamely  
indicat$4    ,i might p]haps d z well z 
?is1 said an intellig5t ar*itect1 z  we 
look$ at "s excell5t b n noble/ details 

( ,fr5*  ,r5aissance1 b h[ c\ld ,i sp5d 
! "t on x8 ,& n only t1  b h[ c\ld ,i h 
sp5t ! "t previ\s to ?is 9 do+ o!r      
simil> "w to tra9 me8 ,i c only make a  
project1 h x c>ri$ out  by ! be/        
comm]cial firm1 n anxi\s to *ange !     
c\rse ( trade1  & %ut my eyes to !      
result4 ,i %\ld nev] be criticiz$1      
because ,i  did n give m ?an my b>ga94  
,& yet to give m ?an y\r  b>ga9 is m]ely
 to give art4    ,look at ?is little    
netsuke1#e or inro1#f or sword-gu>d1 &  
foll[ ! workman z y admire ea* detail ( 
! execution4 ,he has  *os5 "s subject or
 "s design :i* may h an associat$ mean+1
  or may be ( good om51 & be> good      
wi%es1 or he may h *os5 out  ( ! entire 
_w ( obs]vation1 ( fancy1 or (          
tradition2 & may  h *os5 j z mu* because
 x fits well ! space :i* he has to      
cov]4    ,he w take z well a design t   
has be5 us$ a hundr$ times z a  new] "o4
 ,= he has to re9v5t x 9 execution1 ev5 
z ! ,greek  sculptor :o recut aga9 ! egg
 & d>t1 or ! orator :o is to  exp\nd &  

c>ry out to success "s argum5t all ready
 9 8 m9d--z  ! old ar*itect :o rebuilt a
 glori\s ,greek temple ^u ! rules &     
canons ( proportion t o!rs _h us$ be=e  
him4 ,b he has to see  t ?is design 9 8 
m9d--or ne>] yet1 p]haps on pap]--%all  
fit  ! spaces ( ! mat]ial & ( ! object  
:i* he is to make1 s  t x %all be made1 
z x 71 = t place only4 ,he w !n g  aga9 
to nature1--p]haps work+ directly f x1  
p]haps only to 8  memory ( sight1--=    
rememb]1 t 9 :at we call work+ f        
nature--we pa9t]s--we m]ely use a %ort] 
/ra9 ( memory ?an :5  we c>ry back to   
our /udios ! vision t we wi% to note4 ,&
 m  ?an t1 ! v way 9 :i* we draw our    
l9es1 & mix our  pigm5ts1 9 ! hurry (   
in/ant record1 9 ! c]ta9ty ( successful 
h&l+1 implies t our m9d is fill$ )      
innum]able memories (  cont9u\s trials4 
,! workman !n goes to nature1 & f9ds 9 x
 ! reality & !  details ( 8 design1 ev51
 let u say1 to ! v m>k+s ( a tree  trunk
 t he has *os53 !y are all !re1 s9ce !y 
exi/ 9 !  design1 & ! design is good4 ,b

 !y exi/ only 9 s f> z !y  exi/ also 9 !
 ivory t he cuts--9 ! ve9+ ( !          
tortoise-%ell or mala*ite t is to r5d]  
x4 ,n[ ) pati5t  pleasure he c hunt out 
^! associations2 he c use gold1 or      
silv]1  or vulg> lead1 or lacqu]1 or !  
cutt+ & fil+ ( /eel1 or !  iridesc5ce ( 
"m-(-pe>l = 8 leaves1 or 8 /ems1 or !   
wat]1 or ! birds1--= ! cl\ds or !       
moonlight1--= ! sun%9e  & ! %ad[1--= !  
light & d>k1--= ! male & female (  8    
little manufactur$ _w4    ,^! he w      
model1 *isel1 s9k1 or emboss z ! /ory   
ne$s1 & d  x co>sely1 or loosely1 or    
m9utely1 or delicately1 z ! unity ( 8   
little _w requires4 ,& he w "w 9 a      
hurry1 or "w sl[ly1 he  w v>ni% x & rub 
x d[n1 & poli% x aga91 & bake x _m      
times1 & let x wea!r out ( doors1 or %ut
 x up c>efully f !  smalle/ track ( du/1
 or ba! x 9 acids or salts1 & all ?is = 
days & mon?s 9 ! ye>4 ,& :5 he has      
f9i%$1--because to d  m or less w\ld n  
be to f9i% x1--he has giv5 me1 besides !
  excell5cy ( :at we call workman%ip1   

:i* he mu/ give me because  t is ! b>ga9
 betwe5 u--he has giv5 me 8 desires1 8  
memories1 8 pleasures1 8 dreams1 all !  
little occurr5ces ( s  mu* life4 ,z y   
see1 he is foll[+ ! law ( ,tao1 s t     
h[ev]  humble 8 little _w1 x has a life 
( its own :i* _c be  sep>at$ f its      
mat]ials2 no picture ( x1 no            
reproduction1 w  give its full *>m1 any 
m ?an a photograph gives t ( a human    
be+4 ,take out ! ^w ,japanese :]ev] ,i h
 put x1 take out !  actual mat]ials t ,i
 h m5tion$1 & ! description & !  reason+
 w apply4 ,t is all !re is to any "w (  
art4 ,x does  n exi/ 9 a f9e ab/ract (  
int5tion--nor aga9 9 ! application  ( "s
 me?od ( toil--to def9e te*nic1 z s _m  
"y idiots  mo/ excusably try to p]suade 
!mselves4 ,x exi/s 9 an individual      
result ) orig9s s p[]ful & deep t !y are
 lo/ 9 %ade4    ,to g on1 ,i wi% to put 
x t ! same reasons w cause ! arti/1  !n1
 to elaborate pr(usely1 to "w 9 long    
pati5ce1 to use preci\s  mat]ials1 to "w
 slightly or c>elessly1 to f9i% 8 "w )  

m9ute details1 or to sket* rapidly ) !  
end ( a bru% fill$ )  ! s+le color (    
,india ink4    ,!re is no diff]5ce 9    
reality2 !re is only ! "q ( !  k9d (    
int]e/ he wi%es to evoke1 ! sort (      
relation he wi%es to  e/abli% betwe5    
himself & 8 "w1 & incid5tally to me1 !  
look]-on4    ,i am afraid t ?is hazy    
wea!r is affect+ ! sequ5ce ( my  dream+1
 or :at ,i am pleas$ to call my ?\ght1 s
 t y may n  cle>ly und]/& me4    ,aga9  
,i wi% y to rem>k t 9 all fullness ( "w 
o!r ?+s are  sugge/$ ?an ^? directly    
repres5t$1 ^u ! same pr9ciple1 =  ! same
 reasons1 t ! successful sket*1 z ,i    
said be=e1 is  ri*] ?an x looks4 ,h5ce !
 sugge/ion ( color :5 !re is really  b  
black & :ite2 h5ce ! sugge/ion ( model$ 
light & %ad[  :5 !re is really b flat   
color & outl9es4 ,h5ce ! success (  all 
great p]iods 9 :at we call decorative   
"w1 because !re 0 no  sep>ation2 !re 0  
m]ely art to be us$ to fill c]ta9       
spaces1 &  to recall ! fact t x 0 s us$4
    ,_m ye>s ago ,i us$ to read ,mr4    

,rusk91 :5 my sight 0 bad1 & ,i  liv$ )9
 ! po9ts ( ! compass1 & also ! works (  
o!r  m51 :o laid d[n ! exact geography &
 ! due di/ances1 nor? &  s\?1 ( a c]ta9 
dep>tm5t or l& ( art :i* !y call$       
,decoration4 ,"s ( !m are n yet dead4 ,!
 light ( ,tao fell  ^u ! subject f !    
words ( a *ild :o _h be5 li/5+ to a     
talk 9 :i* ,i & o!rs wis] ?an myself 7  
try+ to foll[ out  ^! b\nd>ies t outl9$ 
true me?ods ( decorative art1 &  kept to
 ! receiv$ in/ructions ( ab/5tion f ?is 
& t1 (  refra9+ f su* & su* a reality1 (
 /iff5+ ! fl[ (  outl9e1 ( flatt5+ !    
fullness ( model+1 ( turn+ our backs on 
light & %ade1 ( almo/ hat+ ! surface (  
nature2 & we wond]$  t :5 our ,european 
exempl>s ( to-day _h fulfill$ e         
condition  ( conv5tionality1 _h c>efully
 avoid$ ! use ( ! full me?ods (  art1 9 
! great specialties ( pa9t+ & sculpture1
 _! glori\s  "w _h less /uff to x ?an a 
,go?ic floral ornam5t or a ,japanese    
pa9t$ fan4 ,fa!r1 said ! *ild1 are y n  
all mak+ believe8  ,is ! ,japanese      

ri*ness 9 _! v flat "w s diff]5t f :at  
y c see 9 ?is sket* by my little bro!r8 
,see h[ 8 tree looks  z if x _h light & 
%ad[1 & yet he has us$ no model+4 ,he   
has  us$ only ! m>k+s ( ! tree & _!     
v>iation ( color to d  = bo?4 ,he has   
left out no?+1 & yet x is flat pa9t+4   
,nor h ! ,japanese left out ?+s4 ,!y h n
 be5 =c$ to  ov]/udy any "p1 s z to lose
 ! look ( free *oice1 to make !  "w     
assume ! appe>ance ( task-"w--! "w ( a  
workman bor$1  nobly bor$ p]haps1 b /ill
 bor$1 a feel+ t is reflect$ 9 !  m9d ( 
! behold]4 ,! ,japanese arti/ makes 8   
little _w1--(t5  no?+ b an ,india-ink   
_w1--b its occupants live )9 x4 ,!y  are
 always ob$i5t to all ! laws ( nature t 
!y "k (4    ,h[ev] pi]c+ ! obs]vation ( 
actual fact1 its record is always a     
syn!sis4 ,i rememb] _m ye>s ago look+   
ov] "s ,japanese draw+s  ( hawk+ ) two  
o!r y\ng/]s1 "o ( !m n[ a celebrat$     
arti/1 ! o!r a well-kn[n tea*] ( sci5ce4
 ,:at /ruck u !n  0 ! fre$om ( record1 !
 acute vision ( facts1 ! motions &      

actions ( ! birds1 _! flight1 _!        
att5tion1 & _! re/+1  ! al]tness &      
anxiety ( _! hunt]s1 & ! sugge/ions ( ! 
entire l&scapes 7made ) a few           
bru%-m>ks74 ,"o saw ! heat1 &  ! damp1 &
 ! d>k me&]+ ( wat] 9 ! swamps2 m>k$ !  
dry  pa?s :i* l$ ov] s\nd+ wood5        
bridges1 & ! tangle ( we$s  & bru%1 & ! 
/iff sway+ ( high trees4 ,all 0 to u    
realism1  b affect$ by an unkn[n *>m4   
,n[ ?is is :at ! arti/ :o did ?is       
realism has said1 z well z ,i  c make x 
out3 ,! anci5t mode mu/ be ma9ta9$4     
,?\gh a picture  mu/ be made l ! natural
 gr[? ( all ?+s1 yet x lacks ta/e  &    
feel+ if x simulates ! real ?+s4        
,evid5tly ! pa9t] _h n le>n$ our mod]n  
di/9ctions ( !  reali/ & ! ideali/4     
99       99       99       99       99  
,if y wi%$ to "k :at ,i admire mo/ 9 ^! 
=ms ( art1 ,i might  say to y1 keep+1 ,i
 hope1 )9 ! drift ( :at ,i h be5  writ+1
 t x is _! ob$i5ce to e>ly rules :i* 7  
once bas$  on ! fir/ primeval ne$s ( !  
arti/4 ,& if y pu%$ me fur!r1  & wi%$ to

 make me confess :at ,i ?\ght t ^!      
necessities  might be1 & to make me give
 y a def9ition ( !m1 & !reby  =ce me    
into a def9ition ( art itself1 ,i %\ld  
hesitat+ly /ate  t ,i d n l to def9e 9  
matt]s s f> d[n z causes4 ,b if  y w\ld 
n tell1 or take advantage ( my hav+ be5 
drawn into su*  a position ( doctr9e1 ,i
 might ackn[l$ge t ,i h f> )9 me a      
belief t art is ! love ( c]ta9 balanc$  
proportions &  relations :i* ! m9d likes
 to discov] & to br+ out 9 :at x  deals 
)1 be x ?\ght1 or ! actions ( m51 or !  
influ5ces (  nature1 or ! mat]ial ?+s 9 
:i* necessity makes x to "w4 ,i  %\ld !n
 exp& ?is idea until x /ret*$ f !       
patt]ns (  e>lie/ pott]y to ! h>mony ( !
 l9es ( ,hom]4 ,!n ,i %\ld say  t 9 our 
pla/ic arts ! relations ( l9es & spaces 
are1 9 my  belief1 ! fir/ & e>lie/      
desires4 ,& aga9 ,i %\ld h to say  t1 9 
my unexpress$ fai?1 ^! ne$s are z ne$s (
 ! s\l1 &  e*oes ( ! laws ( ! univ]se1  
se5 & unse51 reflections ( !  univ]sal  
ma!matics1 cad5ces ( ! anci5t music ( ! 

sph]es4    ,= ,i am =c$ to believe t !re
 are laws = our eyes z well z  = our    
e>s1 & t :51 if ev]1 ^! %all h be5      
deciph]$1  z has be5 ! good =tune )     
music1 !n %all we f9d t all  be/ arti/s 
h c>efully pres]v$ _! in/9ctive ob$i5ce 
to  ^!1 & h all c>$ toge!r = ?is be=e   
all4    ,= ! arrangem5ts ( l9e &        
balances ( spaces :i* meet ^!  und]ly+  
ne$s are inde$ ! po9ts ?r\gh :i* we     
recognize !  answ] to our natural love &
 s5sitiv5ess = ord]1 & ?r\gh ?is  answ] 
we feel1 cle>ly or obscurely1 ! diff]5ce
 betwe5 :at we  call great m5 & :at we  
call ! av]age1 :atev] ! p]sonal *>m  may
 be4    ,?is is :y we rememb] s easily !
 arrangem5t & composition (  su* a "o   
:om we call a ma/]--t is :y ! silh\ette 
( a  ,millet aga9/ ! sky1 :y 8 plac+ (  
outl9es )9 ! rectangle  ( 8 picture1    
makes a diff]5t1 a f9al1 & decisive     
result1  impress$ /rongly ^u ! memory   
:i* classifies x1 :5 y comp>e  x ) !    
record ( ! same /ory1 say1 by ,jules    
,breton4 ,x is n  ! diff]5ce ( ! fact 9 

nature1 x is n t ! latt] arti/  is n 9  
love ) 8 subject1 t he has n a poetic   
nature1 t  he is n simple1 t he has n   
dignity1 t he is n exquisite2 x  is t he
 has n f\nd 9 nature ( 8 own in/9ct !   
et]nal  ma!matics :i* accompany facts ( 
sight4 ,= inde$1 to use o!r  words1 9   
:at does "o diff] f ! o!r8 ,! arrangem5t
 ( !  idea or subject may be ! same1 !  
co/ume1 ! l&scape1 ! "t (  day1 nay1 ! v
 p]son repres5t$4 ,b ! ,millet1 if we   
take ?is  in/ance1 is fram$ )9 a l>g]   
l9e1 its spaces are ( great] or  m      
subtle pond]ation1 its build+ toge!r m  
ar*itectural4 ,t  is to say1 all its    
spaces are m surely relat$ to "o ano!r1 
&  n only to ! /ory told1 nor only to ! 
accid5tal occurr5ce (  ! same4 ,! et]nal
 has be5 br\ght 9 to su/a9 ! transi5t4  
,= fa%ions *ange z to feel+s & s5tim5ts 
& ways ( look+ at  ! _w4 ,! tasks ( !   
days ( ,angelico1 or ( ,rub5s1 or (     
,millet  are n ! same2 religions live & 
disappe>2 nations come & g 9  & out ( ! 
pages ( hi/ory3 b ,i c see no?+ f !     

e>lie/  art t does n mean liv+ 9 a l    
desire = law & ord] 9  expression4 ,x   
is1 !re=e1 because we consci\sly or     
unconsci\sly  recognize ?is love ( !    
unwritt5 h>monies ( our arts1 ! p[] (   
recall+ !m to u1 9 "s pa9t] or 9 "s     
ar*itect1 t we say  t su* a man is      
great4 ,he is great because he is ! same
 z man has  be51 & w be2 & we recognize1
 )\t kn[+ !m by "n1 our  ance/ral       
primordial pr$ilections4    ,yes1 ! m]e 
direction or di/ance ( a l9e by !       
v>iation ( "s  fraction ( an in*        
e/abli%es ?is enorm\s sup]iority--a     
little m  curve or less1 a m]e black or 
:ite or color$ space ( a c]ta9          
proportion1 a few d>ks or r$s or blues4 
,& n[ y w ask1 ,d y  int5d to /ate t    
decoration--8 ,to :i* ,i %\ld say1 ,i d 
n mean  to leave my ma9 pa? ( pr9ciples 
to-day1 & :5 ,i return we %all  h "t to 
discuss objections4 ,besides1 ,i am n   
argu+2 ,i am  tell+ y4           99     
99       99       99       99    ,?is is
 ! unity1 ?is is ! reality1 :i*         

dis5gages itself f !  art ( ,japan1 ev5 
z we "k x 9 common1 ?r\gh :at we usually
 call  bric--brac4 ,our introduction to 
x is r curi\s :5 "o comes  to ?9k ( x4  
,sudd5ly1 ow+ to enorm\s social *anges 9
 ,japan1  involv+ va/ fluctuations 9    
=tunes1 mo/ ( all t 0 portable  0 =     
sale1 & flood$ our m>kets4 ,ignorant    
deal]s held 9 masses  small treasures ( 
temples1 adornm5ts ( ! weal?y1 all !    
odds &  ends ( real art1 along ) ! usual
 furniture1 along ) all !  poor /uff t  
w\ld naturally be made = u b>b>ians1 &  
_h be5  made = u = c5turies ?r\gh !     
trade ( ,holl&4 ,x 0 z if  ,p>is or     
,london _h sudd5ly be5 unload$ ( ev]y?+ 
portable1 f  works ( art to h\sehold    
furniture4 ,naturally ! ma9-spr+ ( x    
all1--! works ( great draftsm51 =       
in/ance1--be+ m debatable1  m           
inexplicable1 m useless1 9 a ^w1 or     
deta9$ by /rong]  b&s1 j z x w\ld be )  
u1 h some:at escap$ ! dra94 ,our        
p]ceptions h be5 confus$ 9 all ?is      
mixture by repetitions1  imitations1 :i*

 9 e =m ( art1 z we "k s well 9         
lit]ature1 degrade ! p]ception &        
enjoym5t ( :at is good4 ,i c  only wond]
 t ! _w has n be5 tir$ out & disgu/$ )  
,japanese bric--brac4 ,& _h we n be5 9  
su* bad /raits ( ta/e  ourselves1 su*   
w\ld h be5 ! case4 ,i h always consid]$ 
t  ! arti/ ne$$ to be =giv5 = 8 turn    
t[>d bric--brac2 n  = 8 lik+ to h odds &
 ends = help & refre%m5t1 b =  hav+ too 
_m2 because 8 life is to make1 n to     
collect4 ,to o!rs1  t c be =giv5 easily2
 = ! pieces ( ! pa/ are a  consolation (
 ! pres5t1 & "o w\ld l to feel t a man's
  lik+s are 8 important self1 & are     
betray$ by 8 *oices4  ,dis-moi ce que tu
 aimes--je te dirai ce que tu es4    ,if
 "o _h "t & did n d1 :at pleasure x     
might be to describe  =ev] ! innum]able 
objects & ?+s t might be f\nd "h1  ev5  
?\gh words are a poor r5d]+ ( sight4 ,& 
:at pleasure x  might be to try to      
describe ! greate/ ( all bric--brac1 !  
greate/ rema9s ( ! high] arts--sculpture
 & pa9t+4    ,i h begun "s su* lett] =  

y1 b ,i fe> t x may nev] be  f9i%$4 ,nor
 d ,i see any way ( giv+ an acc\nt ( !  
hi/ory (  pa9t+ 9 ,japan1 :i* w\ld h to 
/& = a /ill fur!r  explanation4 ,%\ld ,i
 /udy x fur!r1 c ,i d m ?an to increase 
my own k1--& all k is a burd51--& to    
give y  cursory pro(1 by names & a few  
examples1 t ! art ( pa9t+ &  ! art (    
sculpture are v old "h8 ,i %\ld h to    
beg9 to ask  myself = y if ! e>lie/     
rema9s d n already prove /ill  e>li]    
s*ools & accept$ or debat$ tradition1 & 
,i %\ld !n  h /ill "o ?\s& ye>s ( design
 to acc\nt =4    ,i %all probably leave 
my lett] to y unf9i%$4 ,x has already   
become unwieldy1 & ,i c\ld give y only  
my own impressions4 ,& !n  9 ! hi/ory ( 
art ev]y?+ is ne$$4      ,illu/ration3  
,,signature ,,( ,,hokusai4    ,x w\ld n 
be m]ely reproduction 9 words1 h[ev]    
beautiful1 ( !  surfaces ( works t h    
surviv$ "t1 nor ( ! m5 :o made !m1  ( _!
 *>act]s1 ! accid5ts ( _! lives1 & _!   
te*nical  beliefs4 ,x w\ld be simply a  
hi/ory ( humanity at a giv5 place4 ,x   

c\ld n be solv$ by a m]e acc\nt ( !     
place & ! race1  accord+ to "s ( our    
lat] sci5tific fads4 ,i 0 writ+ to y b  
ye/]day1 & try+ to make out t ! "w ( art
 is (t5 a  contradiction ( ! p]iod1 or a
 /ep 9 advance2 t ! moods (  feel+ ( !  
future are z (t5 reflect$ by art z !    
habits ( !  pres5t4 ,b :atev] p]sonal   
s5se ( solit>9ess or ( antagonism  has  
inspir$ or oppress$ ! arti/1 he mu/ h _h
 p>tn]s s9ce he  has _h admir]s1 ev5 :5 
he antagonizes 8 "t4 ,h[ev] transi5t    
c]ta9 ( 8 =ms1 h[ev] mu* to u :o come   
aft]w>d !y  indicate ! p]iod1 he has    
express$ n 8 "t1 b ! ne$s (  o!rs :o h  
be5 look+ 9 ! same ways1 & yet h _h no  
voice4 ,& ev5 if !y h n q sympa?iz$1 !  
accumulations  ( l t5d5cies h become    
/rong] & cle>] 9 _!  desc5dants4 ,to    
reflect fully1 !n1 9 words1 ! face ( !  
"w (  art1 "o w\ld h to melt into x 9 "s
 way ! gaze ( ^? :o  h look$ at x2 to   
keep ^u x /ill ! g5tle looks ( ! pitiful
  & ! lov+1 ! rapt contemplation ( !    
sa9ts1 ! t5d] or  mock+ smile ( wom51 ! 

h>d or contemptu\s appreciation ( rul]s1
  ! tol]ation ( ! wise1 all ( :i* h be5 
9 reality a "p (  ! v "w4 ,_! negations 
or sympa?ies h fall5 on ! "w1  & ^!     
ineffable delicacies ( impression are   
transmitt$ 9 x to  successive g5]ations1
 ev5 z ! %ad[+ ( innum]able ye>s (      
inc5se-burn+ has br[n$ ! gold & black5$ 
! azure1 z  concealm5t 9 ! %ade has     
sometimes pal$1 sometimes pres]v$1 !    
edges ( ! outl9es & ! model+ ( ! colors1
 or exposure &  heat & damp h crack$ &  
*annel$ & du/$ all surfaces4 ,y  see :at
 ,i %\ld consid] a true c>ry+ out ( su* 
a task1 & h[  unsatisfi$ ,i %\ld be )   
any?+ t ,i c\ld accompli%1 unless x  7  
to /& to y z some?+ fragm5t>y &         
evanesc5t4 ,"o ?+  ,i %\ld l to d1--%\ld
 ,i rema9 long en\gh1 & be able to get x
  f ! few acqua9tances :o may "k1--& t  
is1 to save "s "p  ( ! arti/s !mselves  
out ( t obscurity by :i* ! lives (      
great work]s are almo/ always cl\d$4 ,to
 me ,rembr&t1 & ,balzac1  & ,delacroix1 
ea* contradictory to 8 surr\nd+s1 h     

become m  intelligible ?r\gh ! record ( 
_! e-day /ruggle1 !  exactness (        
measurem5t :i* "o c place ^u ! p]sonal  
circum/ances 9 :i* !y c>ri$ out _! "w1 !
 limitations (  its exact mean+ &       
importance 9 _! own eyes1 z we foll[ !m 
9  ! daylight ( favor1 or 9 ! gloomy    
end+s t s (t5 close !  lives ( great    
arti/s4    ,i he> occasionally ( ! w&]+s
 ( ,kano ,motonobu1 ! f\nd]  ( ! great  
s*ool & family ( arti/s :o h la/$ ?r\gh 
f\r  c5turies to ! pres5t day1 & h fill$
 ,japan & ! temples  "h ) works bett] or
 poor]1 until ! family "n becomes a     
burd54 ,i he> ab\t ,okio1 ! *>m]1 !     
pa9t] ( ev]y?+ &  ( animals1 :o began z 
a little *ild1 by sket*+ on ! e>? )     
bamboo /icks :5 he foll[$ 8 p>5ts into !
 fields to "w4 ,"o  might p]haps le>n   
ab\t ,hokusai1 :o is taboo$ "h1 & ab\t  
:om  ,i d>e n inquire1 b ^: *>m+ la/    
lett]1 z giv5 by ,mr4  ,morse1 comes    
back to my memory--x is s gay & s sad1 s
 triumphant  ov] circum/ances1 s        
expressive ( ! view ( ! _w :i*  expla9s 

8 woodcuts4 ,i quote f memory3 ,k+ ,em-m
 7he writes  to a fri5d7--,k+ ,em-m 7!  
rul] ( ! "u _w7 has become  v old1 & is 
?9k+ ( retir+ f bus9ess2 s t he has     
ord]$ a little c\ntry h\se to be built1 
& he asks ( me to come  to him t ,i may 
pa9t him a 'kakemono'2 s t 9 a few days 
,i mu/  be ready to travel & to take my 
sket*es ) me4 ,i %all take up my        
resid5ce at ! corn] ( ! ,/reet ( ! ,"u  
,_w1 :]e x w  give me mu* pleasure to   
receive !e1 :5 ?\ ha/ ! opportunity  to 
come ov] !re4    ,or ?is mock+ *all5ge  
to old age1 at ! end ( "o ( ! volumes  (
 8 pictures ( ,fuji3    ,s9ce my six?   
ye> ,i h felt ! impulse to repres5t ! =m
 (  ?+s2 by ! age ( fifty ,i _h publi%$ 
numb]less draw+s2 b ,i  am displeas$ )  
all ,i h produc$ be=e ! age ( sev5ty4 ,x
 is  at sev5ty-?ree t ,i h begun to     
und]/& ! =m & ! true  nature ( birds1 ( 
fi%es1 ( plants1 & s =?4 ,consequ5tly1  
by  ! "t ,i get to eighty1 ,i %all h    
made mu* progress2 at n9ety1 ,i  %all   
get to ! ess5ce ( ?+s2 at a hundr$1 ,i  

%all h mo/  c]ta9ly come to a sup]ior1  
undef9able position2 & at ! age ( a     
hundr$ & t51 e po9t1 e l9e1 %all be     
alive4 ,& ,i leave x  to ^? :o %all live
 z ,i h myself1 to see if ,i h n kept my
  ^w4 ,writt51 at ! age ( sev5ty-five1  
by me1 =m]ly kn[n z  ,hokusai1 b n[ kn[n
 z ,gakyo ,roj9 7,! ,old ,man gone ,mad 
=  ,pa9t+74    444 ,i _h be5 int5d+ to  
add1 :5 ,i int]rupt$ myself "s way      
back1 t ,i enjoy$ 9 ?is art ( ,japan--at
 lea/ 9 ?is draw+  :i* !y call pa9t+--! 
/range ne>ness ,i seem to be 9 to !     
feel+s ( ! m5 :o did ! "w4 ,!re is      
betwe5 u only a ?9  veil ( consummate   
skill4 ,! habit & ! me?ods result+ f x1 
( an old ob$i5ce to an unwritt5 law     
common to all art1 h ask$  = ! directe/ 
ways ( m>k+ an int5tion or an           
obs]vation4      ,illu/ration3          
,,inscription ,,on ,,old ,,lacqu]4      
,?is ref]5ce to a previ\s tradition (   
mean+1 ( ideal arrangem5t  by rule1 ?is 
wi% = synopsis1 ?is feel+ = mann]s (    
express+  "o's self 9 ! ?+ se51 w       

naturally make art out ( any?+4  ,& x is
 n wond]ful t :at we call h&writ+ may !n
 give full  play to art1 9 a writt5     
language ( :i* ideography is ! key4     
,giv5 ! ,*9ese *>act]s1 _! orig9al      
int5tions1 !  associations1 hi/orical & 
lit]>y1 connect$ ) !m1 is x  any?+      
/range 9 reality1 h[ev] /range to our   
habits1 to f9d  writ+ a =m ( art 9      
,japan8 ,x may h all ,i h j ref]r$ to1  
& be full ( ! mean+ ( ideas1 & be       
lit]ature1 & !n x c  be made con=mable  
to ! laws ( beauty ( =m & spac+2 & above
  all1 to give "* ( /yle1 & "* (        
p]sonality1 to look  m or less grave1 or
 elegant1 or weighty1 accord+ to        
circum/ances1  be elegiac1 or lyric1 or 
epic1 & reflect on its face ! int5tions 
(  ! text4 ,& aga9 x w be ! m>k or sign 
( ! p]son2 s t  my ,japanese fri5ds c   
object to ,hokusai's bad writ+1 z       
betray+  some?+ n ref9$1 = a weighty    
argum5t aga9/ 8 o!r works  done ) a     
simil> implem5t1 ! bru%1 :i* is ! p5 ( !
 f>  ,ea/4    ,x w !n be 9 :at we call  

draw+--:i* is an ab/raction1 !  synopsis
 ( ! outl9es ( ?+s meet+ toge!r1 ( _!   
relative  int5sities1 ( _! own colors1 (
 _! relations to ! place !y  are 91 t is
 to say1 ! picture--t ?is art ( ,japan1 
!  daught] ( ! art ( ,*9a1 w atta9 its  
highe/ =m2 s t 9  reality ^? ( u :o ?9k 
( x z appe>+ at its be/ only 9  color1 9
 ext]nal *>m1 h n und]/ood x4 ,an et*+ (
  ,rembr&t c\ld fairly be said to       
repres5t1 n s mu* 9 itself1 b  9 its    
ess5ce1 :at a great ,*9aman w\ld h lik$ 
to d 9 ,india  ink--! mat]ial ( all o!rs
 :i*1 ev5 to u1 is 8 especially4  ,!    
l9e1 ! ab/ract l9e ( ,rembr&t1 its      
elegance1 its beautiful  patt]n+ ( !    
surface1 is conceal$ to u by !          
extraord9>y  ri*ness ( "s ( 8 model+ & !
 extreme gradations ( :at we  call light
 & %ade4 ,b x is !re all ! same1 z a    
geologic  f\ndation1 9 ! same way t     
inside ( ! ,titian's spl5dor (  surface 
!re is a decorative sub/ructure z well  
balanc$ & fix$  z a ,v5etian brocade--j 
z ! works ( o!r great colori/s1 z we    

call !m 7to designate m complex m571    
imply1 9 _! con/itution  & ! me*anism ( 
_! te*nic1 p[]s ( design & draw+        
suffici5t to furni% out armies ( su*    
draftsm5 z fl\ri%1 =  in/ance1 9 ! ,p>is
 ( to-day4 ,x is ?is surplus ( ri*ness t
  conceals ! id5tity4 ,our arts h       
und]tak5 an enorm\s accession (  tru?s &
 ambitions ^u :i* ! arts ( ! extreme    
,ea/ h nev]  v5tur$4 ,!y h atta9$ _!    
end1 ! end ( all art1 at an  e>li] m5tal
 p]iod4 ,!y are y\ng]1 p]haps ev5 m l   
*ildr51 & _! "w _c involve ! great]     
complications (  great] age2 b x has    
also all t grasp ( ! future t belongs   
to y\?1 & t has to be accompani$ by     
defici5cies ( k2  t is to say1 ( lat]   
acquirem5t & ! practice ( good & evil4  
,& x is impossible to look at !         
expression ( nature1 or ( any  int5tion 
made by ! *ild 9 full s9c]ity1 )\t      
realiz+ t  ! aim ( ! arti/1 be he ev5   
,mi*ael ,angelo1 is to return to a      
simil> directness & unity ( r5d]+4 ,n t 
! ,ea/]n arti/1  any m ?an ! *ild1 c\ld 

be consci\s ( defici5cies ( :i* he  _h n
 ?\ght4 ,he has be5 satisfi$1 z we h be5
 satisfi$1 b  = a long] "t & "u a great]
 pre/ige4 ,z ! fruit pa9t$ by  ! ,greek 
deceiv$ ! birds1 & ! curta9 pa9t$ by !  
,greek  pa9t] deceiv$ 8 fell[-arti/1 s !
 horses ( ,kanaoka h  escap$ f _!       
kakemonos1 & ! tig]s sculptur$ 9 !      
lattices ( temples h be5 kn[n to desc5d 
at night & r5d "o  ano!r 9 ! c\rty>ds4  
,o---- tells me ! ,*9ese /ory ( !  pa9t]
 =c$ to let g 8 pa9t+ ( ! moon = a      
nom9al sum to  repay an oppressive      
money-l5d]1 & h[1 :5 ! bank] happ5$ to  
unroll x1 ! :ole room 0 illum9$1 & he   
grew into a habit (  sp5d+ ev5+s 9 !    
mild effulg5ce ( ! pa9t$ rays4 ,b :51   
aft] an abs5ce1 he look$ at x aga91 !   
moon 0 gone1--:]e old  moons g1--& he 0 
enrag$ at ! pa9t]1 ?\gh he might well h 
notic$ t = _m days ! moon _h n be5 s    
bright1 & inde$  _h seem$ to be ill     
drawn4 ,o---- tells me t ! arti/ got x  
back  = little1 & wait$ ! necess>y numb]
 ( days to h its cresc5t  reappe> aga92 

& ,a---- says t1 ?\gh ! picture is lo/  
to-day1  he hopes to f9d x aga9 9 ,*9a 9
 foll[+ ye>s4      ,illu/ration3        
,,inscription ,,f ,,ho-,,riu-,,ji4      
,^! /ories s]ve z a way ( /at+ to y t z 
long z new wants  7 n felt1 new]        
accuracies did n beg9 to exi/1 & ^!     
limitations are naturally se5 to be m   
easily put up ) 9 a  civilization (     
un9t]rupt$ tradition4 ,to acquire some?+
 :5 "o's  h&s are full1 some?+ has to be
 dropp$4 ,9 ! /ations ( our own         
progress 9 art1 ! advance has at e /age 
involv$ "s  defici5cy1 or failure1 or   
weak5+ on ano!r side4 ,?is is ! only    
explanation ,i c make = pa9t+ 9 !       
extreme ,ea/ n hav+ tak5  up            
portraiture--t is to say1 n hav+        
triumph$ 9 x1 :ile  sculpture has rea*$ 
out t[>d x 9 a spl5did way4 ,we h se5 ! 
same ?+ 9 ! transition f ! ,middle      
,ages1 :5 sculpture  outrea*es pa9t+ 9 !
 direction ( reality4 ,b !n sculpture is
  to a c]ta9 ext5t easi] & 9 a c]ta9 way
 inf]ior1 because x  gives a sort (     

duplicate ( ! object1 n a relation ( x  
to o!r  ?+s4    ,s t ! ,japanese h n    
come to ! "w f ! model1 :i*  has at s _m
 p]iods & s long be5 ours4 ,!irs are    
types ( types2  !y are n1 z ) u1 p]sons1
 & ! pursuit ( beauty 9 !  individual   
has n be5 foll[$ app>5tly by ! art ( !  
f> ,ea/4  ,! p]sonal love & pref]5ce ( !
 arti/ embodi$ 9 ano!r  p]son _! art    
does n %[2 nor h _! arti/s giv5 a       
nameless  immortality to c]ta9 human    
be+s1 s t = ages _! types1 _!  images1  
_! moods1 _! *>act]s1 _! mo/ transitory 
v>iations  ( beauty1 h be5 propos$ to u 
z an example4 ,h y ev]  reflect$ h[ !   
nameless model reigns 9 ! memory ( man )
 a  p]sonal fame m intimate ?an t (     
,*eops1 or ,hel51 or ,cs>1  because !   
arti/ has be5 oblig$ to build ^u ?is    
p]son 8 own  dream ( ! _w--z ) ! ,roman 
girl :o is ! ,madonna ( ,san  ,si/o8    
444 ,s1 aga91 ! ,ea/]n arti/s h sugge/$1
 & impli$1 & us$  light & %ade1 &       
p]spective1 & anatomy1 & ! relations (  
light to color1 & ( color to light1 only

 s mu* z !y c\ld take  into _! previ\s  
s*eme4    ,9 _m cases _! success is /ill
 an a/oni%m5t to u4 ,c]ta9ly  _! records
 ( motion1 _! con/ruction ( plants &    
fl[]s &  birds1 we h all appreciat$2 &  
_! sci5tific1 easy not+ (  color$ light 
9 l&scape made ev5 ,r\sseau dream (     
absorb+ its  tea*+ into 8 pictures1 :i* 
c]ta9ly repres5t ! full ,we/]n          
contradictory idea1 9 ! mo/ complicat$  
acceptance ( e  difficulty4    ,! arti/ 
"h1 !n1 has n made sep>ate analytical   
/udies ( all  ! po9ts t tr\ble u1 t h   
co/ at times "s acquirem5t (  ! pa/1 9 !
 anxiety = work+ out a new direction2 z 
to-day1 =  in/ance1 9 le>n$ ,france1 :]e
 ! v art ( pa9t+1 z a mirror  ( !       
full-color$ appe>ance ( ?+s1 has = a    
qu>t] ( a c5tury  be5 9 p]il1 "u !      
influ5ce ( ! academy draw+-s*ool1 !     
model 9 /udio light1 & ! va9 attempt to 
rival ! photograph4 ,&  p]haps x is     
ne$less to repeat aga9 h[ we h lo/ !    
s5se (  natural decoration & expression 
( mean+ by g5]al arrangem5t (  l9es &   

spaces1 s t aga9 9 ,france we are       
a/oni%$ at ,m4 ,puvis  de ,*avannes1 :o 
uses p[]s t h once be5 common to almo/  
all  our race4    ,"h ! arti/ does n    
walk attir$ 9 all ! heavy armor :i* we  
h gradually accumulat$ ^u u4 ,8 le>n+ 9 
side issues is n  unnecess>ily obtrud$  
^u me1 s z to conceal ! s5sitiv5ess (  8
 impressions or ! ref9em5t ( 8 m9d4 ,z =
 u1 we h  m>*$ on 9 a track p>allel to  
sci5ce1 /riv+ n[ = c5turies to  subdue !
 mat]ial _w--to get x into ! microcosm (
 our  pa9t+s4 ,ea* successive great     
g5]ation has tak5 up ! task1  heavi] &  
heavi] z "t goes on1 halt+ & re/+ :5 "s 
new  f9d has be5 made1 work+ out a new  
discov]y (t5 ) ! risk (  ! loss ( a     
great] "o4    ,b h[ (t5 ! processes h   
cov]$ up :at is mo/ important1--to  me  
at lea/1--! value ( ! individual1 8     
aspirations1 & inde$  ! notions or      
beliefs t are common betwe5 u4          
,sometimes ?is cov]+ has be5 sordid &   
mean1 p$antic or  une/hetic1 sometimes  
mo/ spl5did4 ,b h[ difficult x has be5  

always = ! _m to read1 = in/ance1 9 our 
great ,rub5s1 !  evid5ces ( a l(ty      
nature1 ! dev\t int5tions ( a heal?y    
m9d6    ,n t we c turn back to-day &    
des]t4 ,f ! "t :5 !  ,greek fir/ ass]t$ 
9 art ! value ( p]sonal manhood to !    
date (  ! impressioni/ ( to-day1 ! c>e] 
has be5 "o4 ,& c]ta9ly 9  ! art ( pa9t+ 
a va/] future lies be=e u1 :5ev] we are 
ready to c>ry ! pa/4 ,b rememb] t :atev]
 has be5 really  great once w always    
rema9 great4    ,ev5 if ,i 7 compet5t to
 make m ?an approa*es to reflection1    
?is place ( dreams is n well *os5 =     
ef=t4 ,i feel r z if1  tir$1 ,i wi%$ to 
take (f my mod]n armor1 & lie at re/1 & 
look  at ^! pictures ( ! simplicity (   
attitude 9 :i* we 7 once  *ildr54 ,=1   
inde$1 ! mean+ ( our /ruggle is to rega9
 t  "t1 ?r\gh toil & ! fullness ( le>n+1
 & to live aga9 9  ! on5ess ( m9d &     
feel+ :i* is to op5 to u ! doors ( !    
k+dom4      ,illu/ration         #e     
,c>v$ button us$ = susp5d+ ! tobacco-p\*
 to !       belt4         #f ,a ne/ (   

small boxes c>ri$ susp5d$ f ! belt4     
,,sket*+                                
,,nikko ,,san1 ,augu/ #ab4    ,!        
en*antm5t ( idl5ess is no long] to be   
liv$ 91 ( m]e  enjoym5t ( :at ,i see4 ,i
 h n[ to feel ! bitt]ness ( "w1 (  ef=t 
( memory & analysis1 & to become        
responsible to myself =  :at ,i see1 & =
 ! accuracy ) :i* ,i see x2 j z my      
quiet+ inhalation ( ! ,buddhi/ air is   
di/urb$ by ! intellectual  necessity (  
giv+ to myself "s acc\nt ( =mulas1 &    
lat]1  un=tunately1 ( r5d]+ to y ?is    
same acc\nt ( my impressions4  ,& yet ,i
 feel s delightfully lazy1 s mu* z if ,i
 7 9 a ,newport  9 :i* all %\ld be new4 
,all ?is place has become m & m         
en*ant+4 ,i am sure t ,i %all g ) !     
regret ( n hav+  pa9t$ :atev] ,i %all   
leave untri$2 all s pref]able1          
und\bt$ly1  to :at %all h be5 done4     
,ev]y?+ "h exi/s = a pa9t]'s  delight1  
ev]y?+ composes or makes pleasant       
arrangem5ts1 & !  little odds & ends are
 *>m+1 s t ,i sometimes feel z if ,i    

lik$ ! small ?+s t ,i h discov]$ bett]  
?an ! great]  :i* ,i am =c$ to          
recognize4    ,&1 !n1 all looks wild &  
natural1 z if undi/urb$ by man2 b no  "o
 c tell 9 a place :]e nature is s       
admirable1 s admir$1 & s  ador$4    ,i l
 ! old roads betwe5 ya%iki walls1 brok5 
up ) torr5ts  & bridges2 & ! small %r9es
 & sacr$ trees1 :i* h no great  po9t b t
 !y are pretty1 & s f> away--9 ! infancy
 ( !  _w4 ,/ones & rocks t are sacr$--:y
 & :]e=e no "o  exactly kn[+2 only t x  
is s1 & has be5 s = a long1 long  "t4   
,?ree ?\s& ye>s ago ,europe 0 s1 )      
paganism--! peasant or  e>?             
belief--gradually lo/ to our            
compreh5sion except ?r\gh  he>say4 ,s we
 are accu/om$ to write ( ! sacr$ grove2 
& "h x  is1 all ab\t me1 z if hi/ory 7  
made liv+4 ,! lovely sc5]y  rem9ds me   
cont9ually ( :at has be5 associat$ ) x2 
a  civilization :i* has be5 born ( x1   
has nev] sep>at$ f nature1  has its     
religion1 its art1 & its hi/oric        
associations entangl$ )  all natural    

manife/ations4 ,! great ,pan might /ill 
be liv+ "h1 9  a /ate ( ! _w :i* has    
sanctifi$ trees & groves1 &  associat$ !
 _s-_w ) e =m ( ! e>?ly  dwell+-place4  
,i feel z if ,i 7 ne>] ?an ,i c be ?r\gh
 books  to ! old _w we try to rebuild by
 collation ( facts & docum5ts4    ,c\ld 
a ,greek come back "h he w\ld f9d 8     
s\l-in=m$ rocks1  & all t he ?\ght div9e
 or sup]/iti\s1 ev5 to ! v  impressions 
( ,aphrodite4 ,! sacr$ness t lives "h 9 
m\nta9s  w\ld seem all natural to him1 z
 w\ld ! /ories ( m\nta9 gods :o  ages   
ago met "h ! advance ( ! ,buddhi/       
prie/s4 ,= ,buddhism has  jo9$ ) ! e>?ly
 fai? 9 atta*+ religi\s value to solit>y
  places & m\nta9 heights1 & _m are !   
/ories :i* l9k ^!  two beliefs f ! e>ly 
times4 ,z1 = in/ance1 :5 ,%odo ,%on9 9  
8 w&]+s came "h & op5$ up ! m\nta9s (   
,nikko4 ,=  ?is sa9tly discov]]1 dwell+ 
9 e>ly y\? among sacr$ caves1 &  a dev\t
 rev]] ( ! native & ,buddhi/ deities1 _h
 long dream$ (  wondr\s ?+s on di/ant   
m\nta9s1 ( cele/ial or spiritual be+s1  

visible ev5 to ! eye1 & pursu$ 8 se>*   
accord+ to holy v[s  & "u cele/ial      
guidance4      ,illu/ration3 ,,b$ ,,(   
,,! ,,dayagawa1 ,,nikko4    ,:]e ! r$   
lacqu] bridge n[ goes ov] ! ,dayagawa1  
,%odo ,%on9  fir/ cross$ ^u ! fairy     
snake bridge1 :i*1 l a ra9b[  spann+ !  
hills1 0 ?r[n ov] = him by a my/]i\s    
colossal god  ( ! m\nta94 ,"h1 a few    
y>ds (f1 he built ! %r9e 9 honor (  8   
help]1 ! great ,k+ ( ! ,deep ,s&4 ,?is 0
 9 ! ye> #gfg  ( our era2 & 9 #ghb1 aft]
 mu* previ\s exploration1 he rea*$ !    
summit ( ,nan-tai-san1 & met ! tutel>y  
gods ( ,nikko1 :o promis$  to wat* ov] !
 welf>e ( ,japan & ! progress ( ! new   
religion4  ,^! ?ree gods 7 long wor%ip$ 
!reaft] at ! foot ( !  m\nta91 on ! bank
 ( ! lake nam$ ,*iuz5ji1 by him1 along )
  ! ,buddhi/ inc>nations ^: temple he   
e/abli%$ !re4 ,s t  ^! primordial       
div9ities 7 look$ ^u by c]ta9 ,buddhi/  
eyes z  :at !y nam$ tempor>y            
manife/ations ( ! great ess5ces kn[n  z 
,amida1 ,buddha1 & ,kuwan-on4    ,la/   

ev5+1 ne> ! back ( ! rock ^u :i* is !   
tomb (  ,iyyas1 ,i foll[$ "s zigzag /one
 /eps t lead up to a little  %r9e1 d>k  
among ! trees1 9 :i* is ! figure ( an   
old man )  p[]ful legs--! ma/] pilgrim  
,enno-,%o-kaku4 ,:y 8 %r9e 0  exactly   
!re ,i h n cle>ly made out2 b c]ta9ly1 z
 a m\nta9  _s1 8 be+ "h is appropriate4 
,=1 born a miracul\s *ild1 he  lov$ f   
infancy ! solit>9ess ( woods f> up !    
m\nta9s4 ,!  ra9 nev] wet him2 no liv+  
?+s ( ! =e/ 7 ev] hurt by  him1 ev5     
?r\gh *ance2 he liv$1 z !y might1 on    
nuts & b]ries1  clo!d 9 ! tree's own    
dress1 ( ! t5drils ( ! wi/>ia4 ,?us  he 
pass$ =ty ye>s among m\nta9s &          
wat]falls1 "u directions  receiv$ 9     
dreams1 to br+ ! wild places b5ea? !    
dom9ion (  ,buddha4 ,two hill spirits   
s]v$ him & provid$ him ) fuel &  wat]4  
,! life ( nature became 81 & he mov$    
?r\gh wat] or  ?r\gh air z easily z 8   
m9d dwelt 9 ! pres5t & 9 !  future4     
,naturally1 too1 :5 he t\*$ ! _w ( m5 he
 0 malign$ &  p]secut$2 b ev5 !n1 :5    

exil$ to an isl& 9 ! sea1 he c\ld  fly  
back at night to revisit 8 "m1 or asc5d 
8 belov$  m\nta9s1 :ile submitt+        
ob$i5tly 9 ! daylight to ! pres5ce  ( 8 
gu>ds4 ,naturally1 too1 8 evil days came
 to an end1 & he 0  fre$1 & f9ally      
flitt$ away t[>d ,*9a1 & has nev]       
reappe>$4  ,) him 9 ! little %r9e are 8 
fai?ful imps1 pa9t$ r$ &  gre51 & out ( 
! d>kness 8 wood5 image1 ) a long :ite  
be>d1 look$ absolutely real 9 ! ra9y    
twilight4 ,enorm\s iron  s&als hung on e
 side1 (f]+s ( pilgrims anxi\s to obta9 
legs  z /urdy z ^? ( ! pilgrim patron4  
,_h ,i be5 able to leave my  own ,i %\ld
 h done s1 = nev] h ,i felt z weak5$ &  
un5]getic z ,i h become 9 ?is idle      
climate4 ,we c\ld j see !  :ite /one    
/eps ( ! little road z we came d[n !    
/eep hill  ?r\gh ! wood to ! gate (     
,iymits's tomb4                         
,augu/ #af4    ,! languor t oppresses me
 does n disappe>1 & ,i live )           
alt]nations ( ex]tion t reflect ! wea!r4
 ,!re has be5 an  imm5se am\nt ( sun%9e 

& ! same am\nt ( ra91 compress+ into  a 
s+le day z mu* z w\ld suffice at home = 
weeks ( summ] &  w9t]4 ,sudd5ly1 f hot  
blue skies1 come d[n ! cl\d & ! wet4  ,!
 lovely little hills or m\nta9s opposite
 our h\se r\nd out1 all  model$ & full1 
9 glossy gre51 to be pa9t$ 9 ano!r h\r )
  ?9 wa%es ( gray1 ?ick5$ ) :ite1 z 9 ! 
s+le-color$  designs ( ! old ,limoges   
enamels4 ,!n _! edges gr[ %>p &  ?91 &  
are /amp$ aga9/ fur!r mi/s1 l pale pr9ts
 ( !  ,japanese designs1 mak+ me see ^? 
pictures increas$ to life-size4  ,& ,i  
realize h[ accurate ^! are1 ev5 to !    
enl>g$ appe>ance (  ! great trees :i*   
fr+e _! tops & edges1 z ^! are se5      
?r\gh ! brok51 wet veil ( moi/ure4 ,&   
ev5 "h1 aga91 ,i am  puzzl$ z to :e!r   
art has help$ nature4      ,illu/ration3
 ,,m\nta9s ,,9 ,,fog ,,be=e ,,our       
,,h\se4                                 
,augu/ #ag4    ,ye/]day ,i suff]$       
s]i\sly f ! heat4 ,i _h gone to ! little
  flat table-l& t lies to ! nor? beh9d  
our h\se1 ?r\gh :i*  runs a small road1 

untravel$ & grass-gr[n1 connect+ some:]e
 or  o!r ) ! road ( ! great temples4 ,i 
_h int5d$ to /udy !re1  = sev]al        
reasons2 "o1 among o!rs1 because ,i saw 
e day1 z ,i  look$ ?r\gh my scre5s1 a   
little typical l&scape-picture ( ,japan4
  ,ne> by1 a small temple %r9e all      
v]milion 9 ! sun1 ) heavy1  black1      
oppressive ro(2 !n a /ret* ( flat       
table-l&1 ov]gr[n  ) trees & bu%es1 f   
:i* /ood up a s+le high tree1 )         
peaceful horizontal bran*es2 on ea*     
side1 conical hills1 z if !  w+s ( a    
/age-sc5e2 f> beyond1 a tumble ( m\nta9s
 beh9d !  great depression ( ! riv]     
hidd5 out ( sight2 & above1 &  f>!r yet1
 ! great gre5 slopes t lead to ! peak ( 
,nio-ho4 ,x  0 v hot1 & all ! cl\ds     
seem$ f> away1 ! sun v high 9  ! e>ly   
noon1 & no %ade4 ,i pass$ ! new prie/s' 
h\ses ( !  old temple ne> u1 :]e are    
billet$1 to ! inconv5i5ce ( !  own]s1 _m
 sailor boys s5t all ! way f ! navy y>d 
(  ,okotsuka1 s t !y escape ! *ol]a1 z  
we are do+4 ,!y are  usually wa%+ _!    

clo!s 9 ! torr5t t runs "u ! bridge  (  
?ree c>v$ /ones1 :i* ,i h to pass to get
 into ! little  pa?1 frequ5t$ by        
gadflies1 t takes me up to my           
sket*+-gr\nd4  ,7 x n = ! amiably       
obtrusive curiosity ( ^! y\ng/]s 9  _!  
leisure h\rs1 ,i %\ld pass ?r\gh _!     
c\rty>d into !  %ady spaces ne> ! little
 temples & ! ?ree-/ori$ pagoda1 :i*  !  
prie/s' h\ses adjo94    ,i am always    
c\rte\sly salut$ by ! prie/s1 & "o ( !m1
 liv+  !re 9 vacation1 ,i "k4 ,he is (f 
duty at ! temples ( ,iymits1  & ,i h se5
 him at ! home ( our fri5ds4 ,i s5d y a 
sket* (  8 face1 :i* appe>s to me       
impress$ by s9c]ity & a c]ta9  anxiety v
 sympa!tic4 ,:5 ,i sket* ne> ! pagoda ,i
 see him  occasionally r++ ! hang+-bell 
or cymbal1 ) ! same /ep &  air (        
half-unconsci\s p]=mance ( habitual duty
 t ,i rememb] s  well 9 ,ca?olic prie/s 
:om ,i knew z a boy4    ,"h ! memory (  
,%odo ,%on9 comes up aga91 ) a confusion
 (  int5tion 9 ! assembl$ wor%ip (      
,buddhi/ & native div9ities4  ,= ! op5] 

( m\nta9s built ! temple "h to ! same   
god1  ) ! nev]-end+ "n1 :om he met on ! 
summit ( ,nan-tai-san4  ,& ! adjo9+     
*apel1 d$icat$ to ,kuwan-on1 means t %e 
0 9  reality ! ess5tial be+1 beh9d !    
tempor>y manife/ation1 t  assum$ ! "n & 
appe>ance ( ?is m\nta9 god1--! g5ius    
loci4 ,& ! ,lat9 words br+ back !       
recollection ( curi\s /ones  9 ! mossy  
gre5 %ade1 to :i* is atta*$ ! mean+ ( ! 
olde/  pa/2 = !y are male &             
female--emblems & images ( e>lie/       
wor%ip1 emp[]$ to rem9d1 & p]haps       
obscurely to influ5ce4    ,seat$ at la/ 
"u my umbrella1 ,i c\ld feel ! hot      
moi/ure ris+  f ! grass b5ea? me4 ,!    
heat$ hills on ea* side wore a ?9       
int]lac+ ( violet 9 ! gre5 ( _! p9es4 ,!
 m\nta9s across  ! riv] 7 fro/$ 9 !     
sunlight1 ) ! ?9ne/ veil ( a  glitt] (  
wet4    ,betwe5 !m great walls ( vapor  
rose f ! hidd5 riv]1 twi/+  into        
drap]ies t sl[ly crawl$ up ! slopes ( ! 
great m\nta94  ,f> (f1 its top 0 capp$ )
 cl\d1 ^: mass desc5d$ 9 a %[]  ov] its 

face & betwe5 its peaks1 & kept all its 
ne>] side 9 a  trembl+ violet %ad[4     
,illu/ration3 ,,portrait ,,( ,a ,,prie/4
    ,above ! peak ! great mass ( fog    
spread to ! f>!/ m\nta9s1  lett+ _!     
highe/ tops %9e ?r\gh ) a pale-blue     
fa9tness l  t ( sky4 ,b ! great back ( !
 long slope 0 di/9ct1 & ( a  vivid gre5 
aga9/ ! backgr\nd ( violet m\nta9s4 ,s  
solid &  close-pack$ x look$ "u ! high  
light t "o might =get t  ?is gre5 0 n ( 
turf1 firm "u foot1 b 0 a trackless wa/e
  ( tall grasses high z a man's head4   
,f>!r on aga9/ ! nor!rn  sky ! ea/]n    
slope 0 gold5 & %>p4 ,9 ! highe/ sky (  
fi]y  blue l>ge cumulus cl\ds %one above
 & ?r\gh ! fog1 ^: ragg$  edge blew l a 
great flag t[>d ! s\?4 ,! little temple 
blaz$  9 v]milion1 "o side all light$   
up1 its black-til$ ro( hot 9 !  sun4 ,9 
! %ad[ ( its por* ! columns &           
entablature 7 :ite  & pale gold & gre54 
,my attempt to r5d] ! light & heat la/$ 
= two or ?ree h\rs3  my damp umbrella   
seem$ p5etrat$ by ! light1 my sk9 0     

scor*$  & bli/]$1 & a fa9t dizz9ess kept
 w>n+ me to get back to a  l>g] %ade4   
,:5 ,i yield$1 ,i 0 only j able to rea* 
my welcome  mats1 sav$ f some?+ worse by
 my v scor*+4 ,s9ce ye/]day ,i  h be5   
ill2 n sleep+1 b dream+ uncom=tably2 &  
visit$ &  com=t$1 h[ev]1 by our fair    
ho/ess & ! ,doctor4           99        
99       99       99       99           
,murmurs ( ,buddhi/ic conv]sation rema9 
9 my m9d3 vague /ories (  life 9 ,s\!rn 
mona/]ies1 ( ref9$ ascetic life1 (      
sublimat$  delicate food1 ( g5tle       
miracul\s p[]s1 kn[n to ! favor$ few  t 
behold !m at times2 ( asc5sions &       
disappe>ances l ^?  ( ! pilgrim sa9t (  
:om ,i 0 tell+ y ye/]day--all ( :i*     
talk m+les ) ! vague int5t ( my pa9t+4  
,= ,i _h propos$ to  make my /udies s]ve
 = ! picture ( ! ,asc5sion2 to use !    
cl\ds & ! wild]ness = my backgr\nd2 & to
 be1 at lea/ =  mom5ts1 9 "s relation to
 :at ,i h to repres5t2 t is to say1  9  
an atmosph]e n inimical1 z ours is1 to  
:at we call !  miracul\s4 ,"h1 at lea/1 

,i am n =c$ to consid] ext]nal nature  z
 sep>ate & oppos$1 & ,i c fall into     
moods ( ?\ght1--or1 if  y pref]1 (      
feel+1--9 :i* ! edges ( all ?+s bl5d1 & 
man & ! outside _w pass into ea* o!r4   
,illu/ration3 ,,old ,,pagoda ,,ne> ,,!  
,,prie/s' ,,h\ses4                      
,augu/ #ag4    ,& s1 (t51 ,i l to ?9k ( 
^! trees & rocks & /reams1 z  if f !m   
might be evolv$ "s spiritual ess5ce4    
,has n akyamuni  said t all 7liv+7 be+s 
possess ! nature ( ,buddha1 t is to     
say1 ! absolute nature4 ,! sun1 ! moon1 
! e>?1 & !  innum]able />s conta9 )9    
!mselves ! absolute nature4 ,s =  !     
little fl[]s1 ! grass1 ! cl\ds t rise f 
! wat]s1 !  v drop ( wat] itself2 = !y  
are begott5 ( nature absolute1 &  all =m
 a "p ( x1 h[ev] great1 h[ev] small4    
,absolute nature is  ! ess5ce ( all ?+s1
 & is ! same z all ?+s4 ,?is absolute   
nature w be z are ! wat]s ( ! sea1 if we
 picture x1 & its  modes w be z ! waves1
 insep>able f ! wat]s4 ,?us !  absolute 
& all ?+s w be id5tical1 insep>able     

views ( ! same  exi/5ce4 ,?is nature w  
be bo? ess5ce & =ce1 & appe>ance  &     
mann]4 ,& s my fri5ds "h1 ( ! sect :i*  
holds ! temple1  might tea* me t !      
little plants1 ! great m\nta9s1 & !     
ru%+ wat]s c become ,buddhas4    ,9 ^!  
pan!i/ic sympa?ies ,i dimly recall t    
ano!r sect f9ds  ?ree great my/]ies 9   
its esot]ic view ( ! _w4 ,! w9d  :i/l+  
?r\gh ! trees1 ! riv] break+ ov] its    
rocks1 !  movem5ts ( man & 8 voice1--or1
 inde$1 8 sil5ce1--are !  expression ( !
 great my/]ies ( body1 ( ^w1 & ( ?\ght4 
,^! my/]ies are und]/ood ( ! ,buddha1 b 
evolution1 cultivat$  by ! true ^w1 or  
doctr9e1 w all[ man1 ^: my/]ies are  l !
 my/]ies ( ! ,buddhas1 to become l unto 
!m4    ,b s9ce ! pa? is op5 = all to    
,buddhahood1--s9ce ^! animals  t pass   
me1 ?is l&scape ab\t me1 c become       
div9e1--:y1 alas6  are n m5 m easily    
c>ri$ to t glori\s end8 ,x is because we
  are liv+ 9 ! pres5t2 & z t pres5t mu/ 
h _h a pa/1  s9ce no?+ is lo/ & no?+    
disappe>s1 s x w h a future2  & t future

 dep5ds on ! pres5t & on ! pa/4 ,*anges 
&  trans=mations are only a play ( cause
 & effect1 s9ce _s &  matt] are "o 9    
absolute nature1 :i* 9 its ess5ce c     
nei!r be  born nor be dissolv$4 ,actual 
life is absolutely det]m9$ by !         
influ5c+ action ( m]it & dem]it 9 pa/   
exi/5ce1 z ! future  w be det]m9$ by    
pres5t causes2 s t x is possible = !    
s\l to pass ?r\gh ! six conditions ( !  
inf]nal be+1 !  phantom1 ! bea/1 !      
demon1 ! human1 & ! cele/ial1 &1  ?r\gh 
pa9ful transmigration1 to rea* ! supreme
 salvation (  ,nirvana4 ,!n w end !     
univ]sal metamorphoses1 ! trials1 !     
expiations1 ! unceas+ :irlw9d ( life4   
,illusion w cease1 &  reality la/1 9 !  
complete calm ( absolute tru?4          
,,nirvana      ,h ,i told y my /ory ( ! 
^w ,nirvana1 z us$ by ! report] at      
,omaha1 :o manag$ to int]view u8 ,!     
association ( a report] )  any ( ! f\r  
/ates ( ,nirvana may seem impossible to 
y--b ?is  is ! way x happ5$4    ,ow+ to 
,a----'s be+ ! bro!r ( ! presid5t ( !   

road1 we 7  naturally suspect$ ( bus9ess
 designs :5 we ackn[l$g$ t we  7 go+ to 
,japan1 &1 9 my %ortsight$ wisdom1 ,i   
?\ght t ,i  %\ld put to r\t our         
int]view] by all[+ t ! purpose ( our    
go+ 0 to f9d ,nirvana4 ,i _h misjudg$ ! 
m9d ( ! true  report]1 & did n expect ! 
retort1 ,are y n r late 9 !  season8    
,:e!r he knew or build$ bett]1 he _h    
c]ta9ly po9t$  out ! probable result4 ,i
 (t5 recur to ?is episode :51 z n[1 ,i  
enjoy1 9 dream+ action1 t ,nirvana :i*  
is call$ condition$2  t /ate ( !        
t]re/rial be+ :o und]/&s tru? by !      
ext9ction ( passions1 b :o is yet1      
inde$1 v mu* ti$ to !  body--if ,i may  
speak s lightly ( :at is a contemplation
 (1 & an  absorption 91 et]nal tru?1 a  
re/ 9 supreme salvation4           99   
99       99       99       99    ,( all 
! images t ,i see s (t51 ! "o t t\*es me
  mo/--p>tly1 p]haps1 because ( !       
,et]nal ,fem99e--is t ( !  inc>nation t 
is call$ ,kuwan-on1 :5 %[n absorb$ 9 !  
m$itations ( ,nirvana4    ,y h se5 h] 9 

pictures1 seat$ ne> "s wat]fall1 & ,i am
  cont9ually rem9d$ ( h] by ! beautiful 
sc5es ab\t u1 ( :i*  ! wat]fall is !    
note & ! *>m4 ,7 x n t ,i hate          
sightsee+1 ,i %\ld h made pilgrimages1 l
 ! good ,japanese1 to  all ! celebrat$  
ones :i* are ab\t4 ,ex]cise1 h[ev]1 dur+
 !  day is difficult to me1 & ,i don't l
 be+ c>ri$1 & !  mis]able horses ( !    
peasants are awfully sl[ & v /umbly4 ,we
  g ab\t 9 s+le file1 p]*$ on ! saddles 
^u _! hump$ backs1  ea* horse l$ by !   
own]1 usually a tr\s]$ peasant girl4    
,lately on  our visits to wat]falls we h
 pass$ ! wide b$ ( ! second  riv]1 :i*  
makes an isl& ( our m\nta9--a great     
m\nta9-riv] b$  fill$ ) /ones & b\ld]s1 
?r\gh :i* ! wat]s1 n[ v l[1  divide into
 ru%+ torr5ts2 :ile 9 ! w9t] ?is is a   
trem5d\s  affair1 & 9 flood-times ! v   
b\ld]s are c>ri$ away4 ,f> d[n  at      
,imai*i1 "s six miles (f1 is %[n "o ( ! 
long r[ ( /one  ,buddhas1 sev]al hundr$ 
9 numb]1 :i* l9e ! "r bank ( !  ma9     
riv]1 ! ,dayagawa1 ne> ! deep pool call$

 ,kamman-ga-fu*i4    ,x 0 !re t ,i drew 
! bigge/ ( !m all1 on "o ( my fir/  days
 "h1 a /atue ( ,jizo1 ) ,nan-tai-san    
half veil$ 9 !  di/ance beh9d him--a    
great c$> %ad+ him1 & all b ! little    
pa? & ! bridge ( a s+le /one ov]gr[n )  
we$s & bu%es4  ,^! gods along ! riv] are
 all ugly & b>b>\s1--c\ntry gods1 z  x  
71--ali5 z possible1 :ile ! nature ab\t 
!m1 ?\gh  /range1 is n s f> away f me4  
,illu/ration3 ,,/atue ,,( ,,oya ,,jizo4 
,_! ugl9ess 0 acc5tuat$ by a sort (     
effloresc5ce1 or moss  gr[?1 curl$ &    
ragg$ by wea!r1 made ( innum]able slips 
(  pap] pa/$ ^u !m by troops ( pilgrims 
to ! holy places1 :o  make a po9t ( ?us 
m>k+ (f _! visits to ea* successive     
sacr$  object4 ,=tunately1 !y are :at ! 
,japanese call wet goods1  t is to say1 
unprotect$ by ro( or temple1 & ! ra9s ( 
heav5  cleanse !m & leave only ! black &
 :ite ( ! li*5s4 ,!y  always worri$ me l
 a bad dream :5 ,i pass$ !m 9 ! ev5+1   
on my way home f "w1 & ,i c sympa?ize ) 
! sup]/ition  :i* makes x impossible to 

c\nt !m4 ,b ?is is on ! ,dayagawa1  !   
ma9 conflu5t :i* ru%es d[n f ,lake      
,*iuz5ji4 ,our pa? l$  ?r\gh ! o!r riv]1
 ov] causeways & bridges1 up to ! hills 
on  ! o!r side1 & to a high moorl& f :i*
 ! imm5se s\!rn  pla9 & di/ant m\nta9s  
appe>$ swimm+ 9 light4 ,two fa9t blue   
triangles 9 ! air 7 ! peaks ( ,tskba2   
ne>] on ! we/1 !  m\nta9s ( ,nikko 7    
cov]$ ) cl\d1 ?r\gh :i* ! sunbur/  p\r$ 
d[n ^u _! bases4    ,z we rode we pass$ 
b5ea? plantations cov]$ ) wat]1 s t  _! 
mirror1 at ! level ( ! eye1 reflect$ !  
m\nta9s &  cl\ds & upp] sky 9 a         
transp>5t picture1 spott$ ) innum]able  
tufts ( brilliant gre54 ,& !n we        
dism\nt$ at a little tea-h\se1  & sat "u
 a ru/ic arbor1 :ile our fem99e grooms1 
/ripp+ to  ! wai/1 wip$ & spong$ _!     
sweat+ arm-pits & bosoms1 9             
unconc]n$ness ( sex4 ,yet :5 !y notic$  
my sket*+ !m1 z if ,i  did n take _!    
nak$ness = grant$1 sleeves & g[ns 7     
rapidly  pull$ ov] ! uncov]$ fle%4 ,s   
true x is t conduct dep5ds ^u  ! k9d (  

att5tion x calls =4 ,nor 0 ! univ]sal   
/&>d (  fem99e propriety unrespect$ by  
!m1 :51 on our return1 my guide1  :o _h1
 9 e possible way t ,i c\ld imag9e1     
express$ h]  adh]5ce to ! ways ( nature1
 met ) ! disa/] ( hav+ h]  back hair    
come d[n2 = !n1 ) a %riek1 %e dropp$ !  
re91 &  retir$1 blu%+1 beh9d ! ne>e/    
tree1 :]e1 9 equal hurry1  ano!r girl   
guide proce$$ to console h]1 & to       
re-arrange !  prop] /ructure ( %9+ black
 hair & ivory p9s4    ,!n we desc5d$ by 
a n>r[ pa?1 ov] :i* hung tree-camellias1
  /ill spott$ ) _! la/ :ite blossoms1 ^:
 edges 7 ru/$ by  ! heat4    ,! ma9 fall
 ( ,urami-no-,taki drops into a deep    
bas91 edg$ by rocks1  f a holl[ 9 !     
highe/ hill1 ov] :i* hang great trees4  
,on ea*  side less] cascades ru% or     
tumble ov] ! rocky faces1 & "u !  ma9   
column small /reams slide d[n1 or drop 9
 ?9 pill>s to jo9  x4 ,!re is a pa?1    
frequ5t$ by pilgrims1 :i* passes beh9d &
  und]nea? ! fall1 s t we c /& beh9d &  
look ?r\gh x1  :5ce its "n4 ,all is     

wild]ness2 b a high relief ( ! protector
  ,fudo1 gu>dian & fri5d ( su* places1  
is c>v$ on ! rock beh9d  ! falls1 & %[s 
?r\gh ! rumpl$ edges ( ! wat]4 ,all 0   
%ade1 except :]e ! sun /ruck 9 ! em]ald 
holl[ above ! fall1  or :]e a beam      
light$ up "h & !re a pat* ( ! great &   
small  cascades1 or ! trees & rocks ab\t
 !m4 ,& "h1 aga91 !  int5se sil5ce1     
brok5 by ! ru% ( ! wat]fall1 recall$ !  
pictures ( ,k'wan-on1 ^: mean+ & ^:     
images br+ back to me  ! ,buddhi/ic idea
 ( compassion4 ,! deity1 or goddess1    
seat$ 9  ab/raction by ! fall+ wat]s (  
life1 repres5ts1 ,i suppose1 m          
especially an ideal ( contemplation1 z !
 orig9al ,indian "n  indicat$1 ,i ?9k2 b
 h] "n to-day is t ( ! ,compassionate   
,"o4      ,illu/ration3 ,,peasant       
,,girls ,,& ,,m\nta9 ,,horses ,,(       
,,nikko4    ,( ! div9ity's _m           
inc>nations "o has int]e/$ me z typical1
  & w amuse y4 ,x is :5--9 ! ye> #fif   
,b4 ,c41 ?\gh !  precise date is n      
exactly mat]ial--?is p[] is born z a    

girl1  daught] to "o ( ! _m k+s ( ,*9a4 
,!n foll[s a leg5d l  t ( ,sa9t ,b>b>a4 
,%e is 9 no hurry to foll[ h] pr9cess's 
duty  ( gett+ m>ri$1 & pleas+ h] p>5ts  
!reby4 ,%e is satisfi$  ) a virg9 life1 
& makes delays by p]suad+ h] fa!r to    
build  palaces = h] bridal to come2 & :5
 all ?is has be5 done1 &  !re is no f9al
 escape1 %e ends by an absolute refusal 
( m>riage4  ,at :i*1 evid5tly f a long  
exp]i5ce ( ! uselessness (  argum5t ) h]
 sex1 h] fa!r cuts h] head (f1 & ,i     
regret to say  t %e !reupon goes to     
,hell4 ,i suppose t %e goes !re1        
because1  h[ev] laudable & high h] ideal
 ( life might h be51 x %\ld  h be5      
conf9$ )9 ! views ( h] c\ntry1 t is to  
say1 (  ob$i5ce to p>5ts fir/ & =emo/4  
,h[ev]1 %e w5t !re1 &  put up ) x1 & t s
 admirably t ! div9ity :o rules !  place
 0 oblig$ to dismiss h]1 = h] cont5tm5t 
) h] lot 0  spread+ z an example to !   
damn$1 & ?reat5$ ! v exi/5ce  ( ,hell4  
,s9ce !n h] appe>ances aga9 9 ?is _w h  
be5 on  err&s ( compassion & ( help4    

,nor is ?is con/ant will+ness to  act on
 behalf ( o!rs1 & !reby to leave ! realm
 ( absolute  peace1 incompatible ) t    
cont9ual contemplation ( :i* h]         
pictures or images (f] an ideal1 en*ant+
 to me4    ,=1 inde$1 ! f\r? ,nirvana is
 t /ate ( tru? 9 :i* supreme  salvation 
is n di/9ct f sorr[ful transmigration1 &
 = ^!  bless$ be+s ?is is ,nirvana2 t1  
possess+ ! fullness ( wisdom1  !y _c    
desire to delay 9 transmigration1 nor d 
!y rent]  ,nirvana1 because !y feel !   
extreme ( compassion = o!r be+s4    ,=1 
9 ! ,buddhi/ doctr9e1 compassion is !   
fir/ ( all virtues1  & leads & is !     
ess5ce ( ! five c>d9al virtues1 :i*     
are--note ! sequ5ce--pity1 ju/ice1      
urbanity1 s9c]ity1 & wise  behavior4 ,to
 ! ,buddhi/1 ! pitiless are ! ungodly4  
,h5ce !  tea*+ ( k9dl9ess to all liv+   
be+s1 :i* is "o ( ! pure  precepts ( !  
great] vehicle1 & ?r\gh :i* all be+s c  
obta9 salvation4    ,= ! happ9ess1 :i*  
is ! aim ( ,buddhism1 is n limit$ to !  
individual1 b is to be useful1 to be (  

pr(it1 to all mank9d--a  happ9ess :i* c 
only be moral1 b :i* mu/ act on ! body z
  intimately z ! s\l is unit$ ) x4      
,^! are ! aspirations ( high]           
,buddhism--its supreme end1 to  a*ieve !
 happ9ess ( ?is life & ( ! future "o--( 
!  individual & ( humanity1 b diff]5tly1
 accord+ to times &  circum/ances &     
human p[]s4 ,9 its full ideal "h bel[   
civil &  religi\s society w\ld be !     
same2 ! cont9ual re/ ( ,nirvana  becom+ 
f9ally insep>able f our                 
transmigrations--our passions  liv+     
toge!r ) complete wisdom1 & our fur!r   
exi/5ce n  dem&+1 !n1 ano!r _w4 ,& if   
civilization %all h f9ally  p]fect$ ! _w
 ( m9d & ! _w ( matt]1 we %all h "h     
bel[ ,nirvana1 & we %all dwell 9 x z    
,buddhas4          ,,sket*+4--,,!       
,,flutes ,,( ,,iy,,yas                  
,augu/ #bd4    ,9 ! aft]noon ,i g ?r\gh 
! little road t[>d ! we/1 ^:  walls are 
spott$ ) mosses & creep]s1 & :]e !      
gutt]s are  fill$ ) cle>1 noisy torr5ts1
 e*o+ 9 answ] to ! g5]al  s\nd ( wat]s4 

,r>ely d ,i meet any "o--p]haps "s      
tr\s]$  peasant girls1 dr[sily lead+    
pack-horses2 or nak$ peasants1 )        
muscles ( yell[ bronze1 c>ry+ bru%wood  
on _! backs4 ,! sun is  at its hotte/4  
,above ! beat ( ! wat]s rises ! p]petual
  /rid5t1 int]m9able cry ( ! locu/s1 l !
 %rill voice (  m\rn]s 9 ?is abode (    
tombs--! voice ( du/ & aridity4 ,i turn 
a  corn] ( high wall & tall trees &     
ent]1 ?r\gh a dilapidat$  gateway & up  
"s high /eps 9 ! wall1 an op5 space1 ^: 
unkn[n  bord]s are conceal$ beh9d !     
enorm\s trunks ( cryptom]ia4 ,=  weeks  
c>p5t]s h be5 sl[ly repair+ a temple    
build+ 9 ?is  c\rt1 ! big beams & planks
 ( fre%ly-cut wood p]fum+ ! place  ) !  
smell ( c$>4 ,9 ! grass & on ! brok5    
pavem5t lie  mold]+ fragm5ts ( ! old]   
"w1 /ill ) a waxy cov]+ ( !  r$ lacqu]  
:i* holds toge!r ! d>k1 du/y fib]s4     
,a little bell-t[]1 lacqu]$ r$1 /&s ne> 
! o!r entrance1  to :i* ,i pass4 ,t "o  
has its wall & high f5ce all lacqu]$    
r$1 & a gateway also r$ & spott$ ) yell[

 & gray mosses4  ,d[n its big /eps ,i g1
 see+ j be=e me1 ?r\gh ! gigantic  trees
 & _! gray & r$ trunks1 ! face ( ! tall 
pagoda1 :i*  flanks "o side ( ! c\rt    
be=e ,iyyas1 & ^: o!r side turns  t[>d !
 av5ue ( ,iymits4 ,! road ^u :i* ,i come
 is ! av5ue  ( ,iyyas4 ,?ree diff]5t    
slopes lead )9 x to ! pav$ c\rt1  :]e   
/&s ! high ,torii ( /one1 ?r\gh :i* "o  
goes by !  middle pa? to ! high /eps & !
 wall1 ! b\nd>y ( ! temple4  ,two great 
banks1 block$ ) great dress$ /ones1     
sep>ate ! ?ree  pa?s--! c5tral pa? be+  
cut into wide /eps :i* lead up to  !    
,torii4 ,on ea* ( ^! masses ( e>? &     
masonry gr[ great  cryptom]ia trees1 ea*
 ( _! trunks almo/ fill+1 f side to     
side1 ! entire wid? ( ! surface4 ,!y are
 plant$ irregul>ly4 ,z  ! fur!r ends ( !
 banks are less high f ! gr\nd1 ,i climb
  up1 & sit to sket* aga9/ "o ( ! ragg$ 
& spl9t]$ trunks4  ,= all ^! late       
aft]noons b "o all has be5 ! same4 ,f>  
above  me1 ?r\gh ! ne$le bran*es (      
bright or %ad[y gre51 l>ge :ite  cl\ds  

roll & spread 9 a brilliant1 blotty1    
wet1 blue sky4 ,! c\rt  is fram$ 9 d>k  
gre51 all above dazzl+ 9 light4 ,! great
 ,torii  /&s 9 ! half %ade--! edge ( its
 upp] /one %9+ z if  gild$ ) yell[ moss1
 & /a9s ( black & :ite & ru/y r$        
contra/+ ) ! delicate gild$ inscriptions
 incis$ on ! l[]  "p ( ! two support+   
columns4      ,illu/ration3 ,,our       
,,l&lord ,,! ,,buddhi/ ,,prie/4         
,beyond1 ! :ite wall & /eps ( ! temple  
inclosure are cr[n$  ) :ite /one pal+s &
 a r$ lacqu] wall beh9d !m1 & ! r$      
lacqu] & bronz$-ro($ gateway4 ,"h & !re 
gold glitt]s on !  c>v+s & on ! ends (  
its _m ro(-beams4 ,ne> x ! great gray   
tree-trunks are spac$1 & out ( ! gre5   
bran*es %[s ! corn]  ( ! /able ( !      
,sacr$ ,horses4 ,its gray walls are     
spott$ 9 places  ) gold & color4 ,beyond
 x are ! r$ walls ( "o ( ! treasure     
h\ses1 made ( beams ) slant+ edges2 & 9 
! gable "u its  black eaves two symbolic
 animals1 ! elephant & ! tapir1 are c>v$
  & pa9t$ gray & :ite on ! gild$ wall4  

,at ?is di/ance !  b&s ( _m-color$      
ornam5t make a glimm]+ ( nameless color4
  ,f>!r back 9 ! trees spots ( heavy    
black & %9+ gold m>k !  ro(s ( o!r      
build+s4 ,! great trees ne> me almo/    
hide ! great  pagoda1 & ,i c see ( x    
only a little r$1 & ! gre5 "u its  _m   
eaves1 :i* melts l a haze into ! gre5 ( 
! trees4    ,all ^! effects ( color &   
%ape seem b z a decoration ( !  trees1 &
 z modes ( enhanc+ _! height & _!       
/illness4 ,!  great c\rt becomes no?+ b 
a bas9 ) highly-f9i%$ edges1 sunk  into 
! mass ( m\nta9 gre5]y4 ,! ,torii1      
alone1 /&s lonely &  my/]i\s4 ,on !     
space betwe5 its upp] /one beams is     
plac$ a great  blue tablet ) gold lett]s
 t designate ! sacr$ po/hum\s "n  (     
,iyyas4    ,x is late 9 ! ye>1 & ! place
 is no long] fill$ ) pilgrims4  ,i look 
d[n1 occasionally1 on a few /raggl]s :o 
come up ! /eps  bel[ me--a few pilgrims 
9 :ite dresses2 peasants1 sometimes )   
_! *ildr52 ,japanese t\ri/s1 :o1 ev5 "h1
 at home1 seem out (  place4 ,?is       

aft]noon a c\ple ( wom51 e>ne/ly :isp]+1
 sail$  across ! c\rt & turn$ ! corn] ( 
! av5ue ( ,iymits--)  toes turn$ 91 z is
 ! prop] ?+ 9 ?is l& ( inv]sion4 ,_!    
dresses ( gray & br[n & black _h all !  
acc5tuat$ ref9em5t  ( simplicity 9 color
 :i* is ! "* ( good ta/e "h1 &  :i*     
gives "o ! g5tle ?rill ( new solutions (
 h>mony4 ,our own  absurdities 7 n      
unkn[n to !m1 = _! velvet slits ( eyes  
7 p>tly hid "u eye-glasses1 9 emulation 
( ,bo/on or ,g]many4  ,!y might h be5   
ladies3 ,i am n suffici5tly cle> yet z  
to  limits3 p]haps !y 7 gei-%as1 :o n[1 
,i und]/&1 le>n  ,g]man & affect !      
intellectual look ( ne>sight$ness4 ,if  
!y  71 !y 7 f> above ! two little       
creatures t pos$ = me  ye/]day--) all ! 
impati5ce ( girls :o1 kn[+ :at x 0 all  
ab\t1 /ill c\ld n put up ) ! sl[ ways ( 
,european "w1 :5  _! own arti/s w\ld h  
be5 z agile & rapid & sket*y z          
!mselves4    ,! gei-%as are "o ( !      
in/itutions ( ,japan1--a rem9d] ( old1  
complete civilizations l t ( ,greece4   

,!y are1 volunt>ily1  exiles f regul>   
society & family1 if "o c speak ( cons5t
 :5  !y are usually br\ght up to _!     
pr(ession ( ! gay sci5ce  f e>ly        
girlhood4 ,!y cultivate s++ & danc+1 &  
(t5  poetry1 & all ! accompli%m5ts & mo/
 ( ! exquisite polit5ess  ( _! c\ntry4  
,!y are ! ideals ( ! elegant side (     
woman4 ,to  !m is intru/$ ! ent]ta9m5t (
 gue/s & ! solace ( idle  h\rs4 ,!y are 
! hetairai ( ! old ,greeks--& sometimes 
!y are  all t t "n implies4 ,b no "o has
 ! "r to assume x f  _! pr(ession1 any m
 ?an t all lib]ties are bord]$ by       
possible lic5se4    ,! two :o cons5t$ to
 pose = me1 at ! same price & no m ?an  
,i %\ld h paid !m _h ,i call$ !m 9 to   
ent]ta9 me & my  gue/s ) s++ & danc+1 71
 ! "o a t[n1 ! o!r a  c\ntry girl2 &    
little by little !y %[$ ! diff]5ce1 at  
fir/  v slight to a =eign]1 by all ! _m 
little ?+s :i* obta9  ev]y:]e4 ,x 0 a   
s\rce ( quiet amusem5t = me to see !m   
po/ure1 9 :at !y call _! dances1 9 ! v  
room ( our  l&lord ! prie/'s h\se1 :]e  

,i h s (t5 wat*$ him sitt+  :ile 8 pupil
 b5t ov] 8 writ+1 an antique picture1 l 
s _m  ,ea/]n sc5es ( ! ideal (          
contemplative mona/ic /udy4 ,b our      
little prie/ is away1 on s]vice at !    
temple ( ,iymits1 & 8  h\se is kept =   
him 9 8 abs5ce by "s dev\t lady         
p>i%ion]1  :o l5t u ! ap>tm5t m conv5i5t
 ?an ours1 & :o und\bt$ly  %>$ 9 !      
amusem5t h]self4 ,& ,i ask$ myself if   
!re _h be5 a  secret c]emony (          
purification aft]w>ds4    ,i saw1 too1  
l+]+ at ! corn] ( ,iymits1 ! litt] ( a  
great  lady1 said to be ! beauty ( !    
c\rt2 b ,i 0 cont5t to h h]  rema9      
my/]i\s to me1 & tri$ n to regret my    
indol5ce1 :5 my  companion twitt$ me ) 8
 pres5tation to h]1 & to associate h]   
only ) ! cle> porcela9s t be> h] pr9cely
 "n4 ,& !n1  aga91 ! prie/s ( ! temple (
 ,iyyas came d[n to meet "s  pr9ce1     
look+ l great butt]flies 9 gre5 & yell[1
 & capp$  ) _! %9+ black hats4 ,! y\nge/
 wav$ 8 fan at me 9  recognition1 &     
gaily float$ back up ! high :ite /eps & 

into !  sunny inclosures beyond1 m & m l
 "s w+$ ess5ce4           99       99   
99       99       99    ,!n ! temple    
att5dants bru%$ ) brooms ! mosses ( !   
pavem5t ab\t ! ,torii1 & ! gates 7      
clos$4 ,& ,i li/5$1  until ! blaze ( !  
sun pass$ "u ! gre5 film ( ! trees1 to  
! flut+ ( ! prie/s 9 ! sanctu>y on !    
hill4 ,x 0 l a  hymn to nature4 ,! noise
 ( ! locu/s _h /opp$ = a "t2 &  ?is     
float+ wail1 ris+ & fall+ 9 unkn[n &    
incompreh5sible  modulations1 seem$ to  
belong to ! =e/ z completely z _! cry4  
,! %rill & liquid song br\ght back !    
indef9ite melan*oly t  "o has felt ) !  
di/ant s\nd ( *ildr5's voices1 s++ (    
,sundays 9 dr[sy rhy?ms4 ,b ^! s\nds    
belong$ to ! place1 to  its own peculi> 
g5ius--( a lonely beauty1 associat$ ) an
  indef9ite pa/1 little und]/ood2 )     
dea?1 & primeval nature1 &  f9al re/4   
,! la/ beams ( ! sunset made em]ald     
jewels ( ! ne$les 9 !  twigs above      
me--made r$ velvet ( ! p[d]y edges (    
brok5 b>k1  :5 ! di/ant flutes ceas$1 & 

,i left my /udy4    ,z ,i came out f !  
giant trees a great wave ( ! fun]eal    
song (  ! locu/s pass$ ?r\gh ! air1     
leav+ me sudd5ly 9 a great]  sil5ce z ,i
 came home4 ,!n ,i c\ld he> ! rise &    
fall ( ! s\nd  ( our little wat]fall 9 !
 g>d5 z ,i /ret*$ myself at !  flatte/  
on ! mats1 & ,kato br\ght ! tea & put x 
beside me4          ,,sket*+4--,,!      
,,pagoda ,,9 ,,ra94                     
,augu/ #be4    ,?is aft]noon ,i return$ 
to ! entrance ( ,iyyas1 & sket*$ "u  !  
great trees ( ! c5tral av5ue4 ,! great  
:ite cl\ds 7 !re  aga9 9 ! blue above1  
color$ z ) gold :]e !y %[$ bel[  ?r\gh !
 trees2 !n !y came ne>]1 !n !y melt$    
toge!r2  !n sudd5ly all 0 veil$1 ! ra9  
came d[n 9 %eets1 & ,i 0  glad ( !      
refuge ( ! tea boo?s along ! ea/]n wall4
 ,x 0  late1 almo/ ev5+2 no "o !re2 a   
few pilgrims & att5dants &  prie/s      
scurri$ away ?r\gh ! c\rt1 disappe>+ )  
b>e r$d5$  legs & wet clogs ar\nd !     
corn]s ( ! av5ues4 ,& ! ra9  p]si/$1    
hang+ be=e me l a veil ( wat]4 ,i _h 9  

front1 z ,i  sat 9 ! boo?s1 already damp
 & gu/y ) drafts1 ! face ( !  tall r$   
pagoda beh9d its /one balu/rade & at "r 
angles to !  great ,torii t ,i _h be5   
pa9t+4 ,! great trees 7 all ( "o  gre51 
_! ne> & f> columns flatt5$ out ) !     
bran*es into  masses ( equal values4    
,?r\gh !m1 bel[1 9 ! few op5+s to !     
we/1 ! sky 0 color$ ) ! sunset1 z if x 7
 cle> f> ov]  ,nan-tai-san4 ,! gold ( ! 
ro(s' edges & ( ! pa9t$ c>v+s  bel[ 0   
light & pale z ! sky f> away4 ,high] up 
! gold 0  bright & cle> "u ! ra91 :i*   
made x gli/52 x gl[$  betwe5 ! brackets 
( ! l[] cornices & pal$ l silv] high]   
up4 ,all ! innum]able pa9t$ c>v+s &     
projections & ornam5ts  look$ pale beh9d
 ! ra91 :ile ! great r$ mass grew ri*] z
 x  rose1 & ! bronze ro(s1 fre%ly wa%$1 
7 black]1 & ! gre5  copp] gli/5$1 l     
mala*ite1 on ! edges ( ! v]milion rails1
  or on ! bells :i* hung f ! ro( corn]s1
 aga9/ ! sky or  aga9/ ! trees4 ,! gre51
 wet mosses spott$ ) light ! /one  flags
 bel[1 or gl[$ l a fairy yell[ flame on 

! adjo9+ r$  lacqu] ( ! temple f5ce1 s  
dr5*$ n[ t ,i c\ld see reflect$  9 x !  
:ite divisions & /ill :it] li*5s ( !    
/one  balu/rade4 ,bel[ x ! great temple 
wall 0 blot*$ ) d>k purple  & black     
li*5s1 & ! columns ( ! ,torii 7 :ite at 
! bottom  ) mosses4 ,its upp] cross-arm 
gli/5$ yell[ ) _! gr[?s z  if x _h      
caught ! sun4 ,b ! heavy ra9 0 dr5*+    
all2 & n[  f all ! ro(s ( ! pagoda p\r$ 
l9es ( wat]1 ! "o )9  ! o!r1 ! highe/   
describ+ a great curve t encircl$ all ! 
o!rs1 & ! :ole high t[] itself1 z if ) a
 l5g!n$ aureole  ( silv] drops4 ,x 0 z  
if wat] _h p\r$ out f ! f\nta9  bas9s1  
"o above ! o!r1 :i* ! ,italian          
,r5aissance lik$ to  picture on tall    
pila/]s1 ev5 z ?is "o 0 pr(il$ aga9/ !  
sky  & di/ant ra94 ,bel[1 a yell[ torr5t
 cov]$ ! great c\rt )  an eddy+ lake1 & 
its c\rse ru%$ d[n ! great /eps or made 
a  cre/$1 b\nd+ l9e along ! gutt]s by ! 
walls4 ,i wat*$ = a  "t ! beautiful     
curves dropp+ f ! ro(s ( ! t[]1 until   
all grew d>k & my coolie arriv$ to c>ry 

pa9t box & easel1 & we  manag$ to get   
home1 ) sket*+ umbrellas1 wet1 h[ev]1   
?r\gh  e lay] ( clo?+4          ,,f     
,,nikko ,,to ,,kamakura                 
,,nikko1 ,augu/ #bg4    ,ye/]day1 ,i w5t
 out 9 ano!r aft]noon ( blaz+ sunlight1 
up to  ! corn] ( ! temple inclosure &   
along its outside edge1 :]e !  rocks ( !
 m\nta91 cov]$ ) trees1 make a great    
vague wall4  ,"u ! damp trees runs a pa?
 pav$ ) small blocks ( /one1  slipp]y ) 
moss1 or1 :5 b>e1 smoo!d by ages (      
tread+4 ,?is  road leads to ! little    
cascade :i* supplies ! sacr$ wat]-tank (
  ! temple ( ,iyyas1 t squ>e block (    
wat] "u ! gild$ &  pa9t$ canopy 9 !     
great c\rty>d4    ,! wat]fall drops ov] 
rocks into a holl[ betwe5 ! hills2 high 
trees /& along its edge ne> a black     
octagonal %r9e1 ) great  ro(1 gre5 &    
yell[ ) moss4 ,on ?is side ( ! wat]1 a  
dim9utive %r9e1 r$-pa9t$1 ) columns &   
ar*itrave ( _m  colors & a ro( ( ?at*   
all gre51 out ( :i* are gr[+ !  small   
/ems ( "y trees4 ,9 front1 a ,torii1 j  

tall en\gh to pass  "u1 ( gray /one1 all
 capp$ & edg$ ) gre51 velvety moss4 ,a  
curv$ /one1 cu%ion$ ) moss1 9 front ( x1
 spans !  wat]-c\rse t gives escape to !
 wat]s ( ! pool4 ,! doors (  ! %r9e are 
clos$1 z if to make m solit>y yet !     
quiet ( !  little holl[4    ,high] up1  
pa/ ! black build+ & above high /eps1 on
 a plat=m  edg$ by walls1 /& black      
build+s1 %r9es ( ,buddhi/ div9ities1  ^:
 gold5 bodies ,i c see ?r\gh ! grat+ ( !
 unfa/5$  doors4 ,i feel _! amiable     
pres5ce1 :ile ,i sit pa9t+ 9 ! damp     
sunlight1 & ! murmur ( ! wat]s seems _! 
:isp]$  enc\ragem5t4    ,on my return ,i
 look$ aga9 t[>d ! abrupt rocky hill to 
f9d a  little monum5t we _h pass$ at its
 foot1 j (f ! road4 ,?r\gh  ! inevitable
 ,torii a little pa? ( r\gh flagg+1 all 
brok5 up &  imb$d$ 9 moss1 leads across 
! small bridge ( two l>ge /ones1 "o  (  
^: p>apets is gone1 & up high /eps1 half
 natural1 to a little  alt> ( big /ones 
) a heavy balu/rade ar\nd ?ree sides4 ,a
 little  /one %r9e ) a ro( /&s ^u x1 &  

beh9d x a tall gray rock  ^u :i* is     
incis$ & gild$ a device ( five disks =m+
 a  circle4 ,all ar\nd ab\t ! pa? & %r9e
 are trees cov]$ )  moss2 ! rocks1 !    
%r9e1 ! pa?1 are spott$ ) gre5 & yell[  
velvet2 all looks z if ab&on$ to        
nature1--all b ! gild$  armorial be>+s 9
 ! mossy /one1 :i* ,i take to be ^? ( ! 
div9iz$ mortal 9 ^: honor ?is little    
record has be5 built1  ,t5-j9 ,sama1    
kn[n & wor%ip$ by e s*oolboy 9 ,japan4  
,he is !  patron ( le>n+ & ( p5man%ip1 &
 0 dur+ 8 life a great  s*ol> & m9i/] ( 
/ate "u ! "n ( ,mi*izane4 ,?is 0 j  be=e
 ! ye> n9e hundr$4 ,a fai?ful m9i/]1 a  
le>n$ & j  man1 he naturally gave great 
umbrage1 especially to a y\ng] associate
  ^: si/] 0 ,empress1 & :o succe$$ ?r\gh
 malici\s sl&] 9  br++ ab\t ,mi*izane's 
bani%m5t4    ,9 8 place ( exile1 sep>at$
 f wife & *ildr51 he di$ two  ye>s lat]4
 ,!re1 ,i suppose1 he rode ab\t on !    
saddl$ bull1 ^u  :i* ,yosai has plac$   
him 9 8 draw+s1 z also he 0 se5 by      
,motonobu 9 a dream1 ( :i* ,i h a draw+4

 ,!re ! great arti/  has repres5t$ him1 
fai?ful1 ,i suppose1 to :at he really   
saw1 z a  y\ng] man ?an he really c\ld h
 be51 gallop+ swiftly &  b5d+ d[n to    
avoid ! bran*es ( ! trees above4        
,bulls ( bronze & m>ble adorn 8 temple 9
 ,kioto1 recall+ h[ !  bull t drew him  
to ! cemet]y refus$ to g fur!r ?an a    
c]ta9  spot1 :]e he 0 buri$ 9 a grave   
dug ha/ily4 ,mis=tune & remorse  foll[$ 
8 enemies1 ) ! dea? ( ! ,imp]ial heir2 s
 t !  ,emp]or1 revok+ 8 bani%m5t1       
re9/all$ ! dead man 9 ! honors  ( 8     
(fice1 & be/[$ a high rank ^u 8 gho/4   
,s9ce !n 8  wor%ip has gr[n1 z ,i said  
above4    ,z y see1 ! ,mikado has be5 ! 
f\nta9 ( honor = ?is _w &  ! next2 & ,i 
_c help be+ rem9d$ ( ! con/ant relations
 (  ,*9ese & ,japanese ?\ght 9 ?is      
unity--?is con/ant jo9+ (  t :i* we     
sep>ate4 ,! =ms ( ,*9a may be m         
bureaucratic2  no su* national          
prejudices & feel+s c belong to ! idea (
 !  sov]eign !re z mu/ exi/ 9 ,japan1 ) 
a dyna/y ( rul]s z  ,japanese z ,japan  

itself4 ,b !re has be5 "h1 z !re1 a sort
 (  natural duty 9 ! ,gov]nm5t to look  
aft] all ! relations ( ^?  intru/$ to   
its c>e4 ,9 ,*9a1 all religion or       
religions mu/ dep5d  ^u ! sanction ( !  
rul+ p[]s2 no?+ is too great or too     
small to be satisfi$ )2 (ficial approval
 may att5d ! wor%ip (  "s local h]o9e1  
(ficial disapproval may be %[n to "s    
exagg]ations ( ,taoi/ sup]/itions4 ,!   
s\rce ( ?is "r & ?is  duty is always !  
idea t 9 ! rul] all is c5t]$2 he is     
responsible to ,heav51 & is ! tie betwe5
 ! p[]s above & !  deities bel[4 ,h5ce  
!re is no?+ absurd 9 8 foll[+ !  gov]n$ 
aft] dea?4    ,9 ,japan1 ! =ms ( ?is p[]
 may be diff]5t1 b its work+s  w be     
simil>1 & h]o-wor%ip1 comb9$ ) ! respect
 & wor%ip  ( ance/ors1 has _h a mo/     
important "p 9 ! developm5t ( life  "h1 
9 enc\rag+ patriotism & l(ty ideas1 & 9 
/imulat+ !  *ivalr\s feel+1 ! ideas (   
honor1 t seem to me ! peculi>  note ( ! 
,japanese4 ,h[ev] misappli$1 h[ev]      
mi/ak51 h[ev]  b>b>\s "s =ms ( ^! ideas 

may appe> to u1 ,i _c make =  myself a  
def9ition ( ! national "*1 nor see a    
clue to _m (  _! actions unless ,i be> 9
 m9d ! rul+ p[] ( ?is feel+4  ,:ile we  
are 9 ?is place1 :]e ,iyyas's "n is s   
important1 let me  cite a trifl+        
anecdote4    ,x is said t on "s occasion
 he accompani$ ,hideyo%i1 ! great       
,taiko ,sama1 ea* ) few att5dants1 ^u "s
 visit1 & all 7  afoot4 ,n[1 among !    
ret9ue ( ,iyyas 0 "o ,honda1 a man (    
pret]natural /r5g?1 :o h9t$ to 8 ma/] t 
?is might be an  opportunity = an attack
 ^u 8 great rival4 ,b ,taiko guess$ !   
dang]1 &1 turn+ r\nd1 said to ,iyyas3   
,my sword is heavy1 = me  unaccu/om$ to 
walk+1 s may ,i n ask y\r s]vant to c>ry
 x =  me8 ,= ,taiko knew t x w\ld h be5 
consid]$ a disgrace to  attack a man    
un>m$ :5 he _h intru/$ 8 sword1 n to 8  
own  s]vant1 b to ! s]vant ( 8 enemy4 ,&
 ,iyyas und]/ood ?is  appeal to ! idea (
 honor4                                 
,augu/ #bh4    ,two m days & we %all be 
gone4 ,z ,i sket* 9 ! temples or ab\t   

!m1 ev]y?+ seems m beautiful z x gr[s to
 be m a "p (  my daily exi/5ce4 ,?\gh ,i
 am p]petually h>ass$ ?r\gh feel+  t ,i 
_c copy ev]y?+1 & ?r\gh try+ to =ce my  
memory to  grasp s z to reta9 !         
multitud9\s details ( ! ar*itectural    
decoration1 ,i h drawn ! curve ( ?is1 & 
! patt]ns ( t1  & not$ ! colors1 b ,i   
wond]1 if ! ?read gets loos5$ t  holds  
!m toge!r1 :e!r ,i %all ev] be able to  
sep>ate "o f  ano!r 9 _! entanglem5t4 ,&
 !n ,i /ill d n wi% to "w4  ,!re are s  
_m places t ,i %\ld l to look at aga9   
)\t !  oppression ( an obligatory       
record4    ,?is ev5+ ,i mu/ take ano!r  
look at ! neglect$ graves ( !  foll[]s (
 ,iymits :o committ$ suicide1 z my      
,japanese acc\nt has  x1 t !y might     
accompany him 9 8 d>k pilgrimage to !   
future  _w4 ,at lea/ x says ?is ( ,hotta
 ,masemori & ( ?ree o!rs2  :ile !       
graves1 z ,i rememb] !m1 are tw5ty-"o 9 
numb]1 &  ab\t ?is ,i h nev] ?\ght to   
ask1 b ,i mu/ d s4 ,& !n !re  may h be5 
reta9]s ( reta9]s4 ,x is a pleasure to  

me anyh[ to  set d[n at lea/ "o "n & to 
help to keep ?is memory cle> :5 ,i  ?9k 
( ! neglect$ spot 9 :i* !y lie4 ,x is n 
f> f t  "p ( ! l& :]e /ood ! resid5ce ( 
_! ma/]'s family1 n[  de/roy$1 ?r\gh !  
days ( turbul5ce :i* clos$ ! la/ mom5ts 
( _! reign4 ,brok5 fragm5ts ( f5c+ /ill 
lean aga9/ !  little inclosures ( /one  
po/s1 balu/rade1 & gate t surr\nd  ea*  
memorial pill>4 ,!y /& 9 two r[s 9 a    
little cle>+1 !  valley sunk beh9d !m1  
hidd5 9 "p by mu* wild gr[?4    ,o---- 0
 tell+ u "s little :ile ago ( ! feudal  
habit :i*  gave to a *iefta9 ! v[ (     
c]ta9 reta9]s :o und]took to foll[  him 
fai?fully ev5 beyond ! grave4 ,x 0      
expect$ ( !m 9 w>  t !y %\ld be ab\t him
 %>+ 9 8 /ruggle1 & if he di$ 9  peace1 
ne> or f>1 !y %\ld be ready to g too4   
,& z dea? is ! mo/ important ?+ 9 life1 
,i _c help ?9k+  ov] ! condition ( m9d (
 any "o :o look$ =w>d to su* a          
limitation ( its lease4    ,:5 age _h   
*ang$ ! view ( life1 _h creat$ m ties1 m
  duties1 _h made ! t]m ne>] & m        

caprici\s1 :ile ev]y?+  else became m   
fix$1 did ?is bond1 ) its promise (     
paym5t to be  met at any mom5t's dem&1  
become a heavy burd5 ( debt8 ,i c       
occasionally conjure up a               
picture--p]haps errone\s1 because my    
imag9ation ( ! circum/ances may displace
 !m1--( "s old] man  settl$ 9 pleasant  
places1 re/$ 9 secure possessions1 )    
dep5dants1 ) fri5ds1 ) affections ar\nd 
8 life1 le>n+ at  any mom5t ( !         
probability t ! call might come4 ,he    
might be  summon$ f any fe/ivity or joy 
z if by a knock+ at ! door4 ,h[         
curi\sly he mu/ h wat*$ ! runn]s ( !    
mail :o might be  br++ into 8 t[n ! news
 f ! c\rt1 or :]esoev] ?is  o!r         
life--:i* to all purposes 0 8 own--0    
p]haps ebb+ away4  ,h[ !n he w\ld h kn[n
 :at to d1 ev5 to its mo/ m9ute detail1 
& be b "p ( a c]emonial t he himself    
w\ld direct4 ,vague  memories come up to
 me ( places set ap>t 9 ! g>d51 & !     
scre5s & ! hang+s & ! lights t belong$  
to ! volunt>y  ordeal4 ,b z ,i keep on  

?9k+1 ,i feel m c]ta9 t my fancy        
displaces ! circum/ances ( =m] times & (
 a diff]5t  civilization4 ,= in/ance1 ! 
conc5tration ( ! feudal t]ritory1       
habits ( clan%ip1 ! con/ant att5dance1  
mu/ h n>r[$ !  circle & made !          
individual m l a "p ( "o great ma*9]y1  
"o great family1 ?an he c ev] be aga94  
,! weakness1 !  insuffici5cy ( !        
individual1 has be5 /iff5$ by !         
importance (  ! family1 ( ! clan1 z a   
basis ( society2 & ,i c\ld almo/ say  t 
,i disc]n 9 ?is "o ma9-spr+ ( ! peculi> 
c\rtesy ( ?is  nation1 :i* seems to g   
along ) a great feel+ ( a c]ta9  fre$om1
 s t ! ob$i5ce ( ! inf]ior does n seem  
s]vile4  ,! s]vant :o has done 8 duty ( 
respectful s]vice seems aft]w>d  ready  
to take any natural relation t may turn 
up4 ,! y\? tra9$  9 respect to 8 bett]s 
& eld]s1 & sil5t 9 _! pres5ce1 w  give 8
 op9ion frankly :5 ask$1 ) a want (     
diffid5ce q  unexpect$4 ,! com+ ye>s are
 c]ta9 to br+ *anges t _c be  arre/$4   
99       99       99       99       99  

,:ile ,i 0 be+ bak$ to-day1 at my "w t  
,i c\ld n leave1 my  companions h be5   
away on a visit high] up ! m\nta9s1 to !
 hot  ba?s on ! lake1 &1 at lea/ = "p ( 
! "t1 h _h !  wea!r almo/ cold4 ,!y h   
mu* to say ab\t ! ba?s1 & !  fullness ( 
visitors1 & ! difficulty ( gett+ place1 
& "o (  !m has gone to h] ba? 9 ! native
 dress1 & ano!r _c yet  q get ov] !     
impression made ^u him by ! pretty "y   
lady  ne> :om he /ood "u ! eaves ( !    
ba?-h\se1 :]e he _h tak5  refuge f !    
ra91 & ^: mode/ mann]s 7 z *>m+ z h]    
y\?fulness1 & _h no m cov]+4    ,"h     
ev]y?+ is /ill hot & damp1 ?\gh our     
nights are cool] &  ,i am able to make  
out m conv5i5tly my notes & my sket*es &
 my  memor&a ( pur*as$ acquisitions4 ,on
 ! l[] floor boxes are be+  fill$1 &    
to-morr[ ev5+ horses & m5 w /& 9 our    
g>d5 to  be lad52 we %all foll[ ! light 
( _! lant]ns d[n ! road1 &  !y w seem to
 be c>ry+ p>ts ( u away f ,nikko4       
,,nikko ,,to ,,yokohama                 
,,ne> ,,utsunomiya1 ,augu/ #cj4    ,we  

left ,nikko ?is morn+2 a hot1 moi/1     
quiet1 lovely morn+4 ,we  dawdl$ at our 
fri5ds' h\se & breakfa/$1 & said good-by
 to our  wor?y l&lord4 ,ye/]day he _h   
f\nd fault ) my sket*+ him 9  8 ord9>y  
yell[ prie/'s dress1 :ile he _h ve/m5ts 
z beautiful  z any pa9t] or cl]gyman    
c\ld desire2 9 pro( ( :i* he _h  ru%$   
into 8 h\se & reappe>$ 9 ^? lovely ?+s &
 mov$  ab\t ! gre5 ( ! g>d5 look+ z     
radiant z any flam+o4 ,b ,i  knew n ( ^!
 possessions ( 81 & regrett$ q z deeply 
z  he c\ld himself n hav+ pa9t$ him 9   
!m4    ,x 0 a sad mom5t--t ( leav+ 8    
little g>d5 = good1 &  walk+ d[n ! road 
to ! enorm\s /eps "u ! trees by !  riv]1
 :]e we rev]s$ ! picture ( our arrival  
six weeks ago4 ,!re  /ood ! nak$ runn]s1
 & our ho/ess above u1 z we sat 9 !     
kurumas1 b ?is "t ! doctor 0 n ) u1     
except to bid u  good-by4 ,8 place 0    
fill$ by ! pr(essional guide & factotum1
  :o sat anxi\s = dep>ture 9 8 own      
kuruma1 & :o = days _h  be5 pack+ &     
label+ & help+ to make li/s1 & receiv+  

in/ructions1 & bu/l+ ab\t at times :5 he
 0 n sleep+--&  g5]ally mak+ life a     
mis]y4 ,we rattl$ ov] ! bridge1 pass$ ! 
*ildr5 go+ to s*ool1 & ! polite         
policeman ) spectacles &  sword1 :o     
looks l a ,g]man ,ra? ( "s k9d or o!r1 &
 !  woman ( ! ,eta class#g :o has sold u
 sk9s ( monkeys & (  badg]s1 z well z   
two baby monkeys1 :om we h              
disrespectfully nam$  ,sesson & ,sos51  
aft] ! pa9t]s :o s beautifully portray$ 
_!  ance/ors4    ,soon we _h ent]$ !    
long av5ue ( cryptom]ia & kept on ?r\gh 
%ad[ & sunlight1 ) our runn]s at _!     
fulle/ gait1 = we _h  to be 9 "t = !    
aft]noon tra9 at ,utsunomiya1 & x is    
tw5ty-two miles f ,nikko4 ,b we 7 m ?an 
9 "t1 & _h to  wait at an inn ne> !     
/ation4 ,i am absurdly /upid & fatigu$1 
s  t ,i h giv5 up wat*+ ! l&scape &     
m]ely make ^! notes4  ,besides1 !re is a
 mission>y ne> u s self-cont5t$ t ,i    
feel  l )draw+ into my own self & dream+
 ( ! times he 0 n  "h4 ,i recall a      
little /ory ( ,utsunomiya1 connect$ ) my

  associations ( ,nikko1 :i* ,i %all try
 to tell y2 ?\gh1 at !  v />t1 ,i f9d a 
difficulty 9 my hav+ he>d x told 9      
sev]al  diff]5t & contradictory ways--& 
,i c only travel "o at a "t4  ,z ,i %all
 tell x1 x repres5ts a leg5d believ$ at 
lea/ 9 !  !at]1 :i*1 z we "k1 ev]y:]e   
makes a k9d ( hi/ory4    ,! /ory is ab\t
 ! %ogun ,iymits1 ^: temple1 y "k1 is at
  ,nikko1 & :o 0 ne> miss+ ! honor ( be+
 div9iz$ !re  lat]1 ow+ to a plot       
arrang$ by 8 enemies1 ! sc5e ( :i* 0    
?is little t[n ( ,utsunomiya4 ,at t "t  
he 0 b a boy1 !  heir-app>5t1 & 0 on 8  
way to ,nikko1 z 0 8 (ficial duty1 to   
wor%ip at ! tomb ( 8 gr&fa!r ,iyyas1    
lately deceas$4 ,9  ?is /ory ,iymits is 
n 9 ! legitimate l9e ( desc5t1 b is     
made ! heir by ! decision ( ! great     
,iyyas4    ,8 fa!r1 ,hidetada1 0 %ogun1 
z y "k1 hav+ succe$$ ,iyyas1  dur+ !    
latt]'s lifetime1--! old man rema9+ 9   
reality !  ma/]1 ?\gh absolv$ f ext]nal 
responsibilities4 ,n[1 ,hidetada's  wife
 0 ( ! family ( ,nobunaga1 on h] "m's   

side--& bore him a  son1 :o 0 nam$ dur+ 
8 *ildhood ,kuni ,matsu4 ,ano!r son1 ^: 
boy "n 0 ,take ,*iyo1 0 ! son ( ,kasuga 
,no ,tsubone1 a rem>kable  woman4 ,ea*  
son _h tutors1 p ( importance1 & ar\nd  
ea* boy  ga!r$ a numb] ( ambiti\s       
int]e/s1 all ! fi]c] t !y 7  dissembl$ &
 dep5d$ = success ^u ! *oice ( ei!r heir
 z  %ogun1 to succe$ fa!r & gr&fa!r4 ,! 
claim ( ! o!r son  0 favor$ by ! fa!r & 
m g5]ally accept$2 b ! son (  ,kasuga 0 
sup]ior 9 looks1 mann]s1 & intellig5ce1 
& 8 "m  hop$ to influ5ce 9 8 favor old  
,iyyas1 ! gr&fa!r4    ,iyyas 0 !n liv+ 9
 retirem5t at ,sunpu1 t is n[ call$     
,%idzuoka1 :i* is on ! road call$ !     
,tokaido4    ,kasuga took advantage ( a 
pilgrimage to ! %r9es ( ,ise to /op on  
h] road1 & naturally (f] homage to !    
head ( ! family1 !  gr&fa!r ( h] son4   
,besides ! p[] ( h] own p]sonality1 %e  
0 able to place be=e ,iyyas v /rong     
argum5ts = *oos+ z  ! heir ( ! l9e a y\?
 z promis+ z h] ,take ,*iyo4    ,iyyas  
advis$ h] to cont9ue h] pilgrimage1 & n 

to g out ( h]  woman's bus9ess1 :i* c\ld
 n be t ( int]f]+ ) que/ions  ( /ate2 & 
%e obey$4 ,b ,iyyas revolv$ ! entire "q 
9  8 m9d1 & decid$ t !re 0 dang] 9 a    
delay t all[$  bo? p>ties to gr[ /rong] 
9 antagonism4 ,s t he came at once to   
,y$o1 :i* is n[ ,tokio1 & visit$        
,hidetada1 ask+ to see bo? !  boys      
toge!r4 ,!y came 9 along ) _! fa!r & 8  
wife1 &  took _! accu/om$ places4 ,n[ ^!
 7 on ! high] floor1 rais$  by a few    
in*es f ! floor on :i* kneels ! visitor 
( l[]  degree1 9 ! pres5ce ( 8 sup]ior3 
a l9e ( black lacqu] edges  ! division4 
,!reupon ,iyyas tak+ ! boy ,take ,*iyo  
by ! h&1  made him sit by him1 &        
alongside ( 8 fa!r1 & ord]$ ! o!r  son1 
,kuni ,matsu1 to sit bel[ ! l9e1 & said3
 ,! ,/ate w come  to h>m if ! boys are  
all[$ to gr[ up 9 ! idea ( equal rank4  
,!re=e1 ,take ,*iyo %all be %ogun1 &    
,kuni ,matsu a daimio4 ,?is  decision   
gave to ! l9e ( ! ,tokugawa a brilliant 
& p[]ful  cont9uity1 = ,take ,*iyo1 "u 8
 manhood "n ( ,iymits1 0 z  an ,augu/us 

to ! ,cs> ,iyyas4 ,&1 inde$1 ,iyyas _h  
c]ta9ly  made suffici5t inquiries to    
w>rant 8 decision4 ,if he consult$ !    
abbot ,t5kai1 ( ,nikko1 :o 0 a preceptor
 ( ! boy1 he mu/ h  he>d favorably (    
him4 ,=1 accord+ to ! judgm5t ( ,t5kai1 
z ,i  f9d x quot$ else:]e1 ,iymits 0 v  
%rewd & ( great  =esight1 & 9 8 pres5ce 
! great abbot felt1 he said1 z if  ?orns
 7 prick+ 8 back4    ,n b t he 0 also   
fond ( luxury & spl5dor2 & "o glimpse ( 
him z a y\? %[s a qu>rel ) a tutor :o   
f\nd him dress+  himself1 or be+ dress$1
 = ,no p]=mances1 or private  !atricals1
 & :o proce$$ !reupon to ?r[ away !     
d\ble  mirrors1--9 :i* ! y\? foll[$ 8   
hair-dress]'s  arrangem5ts1--) ! usual1 
classical rebuke1 condemn+ su*          
arrangem5ts z unwor?y ( a rul] ( ,japan4
    ,!re are _m /ories ( ,iymits m or   
less to 8 advantage--& a  little        
anecdote %[s a "y man ( quick temp]1 z  
well z "o :o  insi/$ ^u prop] att5dance4
    ,iymits _h be5 hawk+ 9 a /rong w9d1 
& ) no success4 ,tir$  & hungry1 he w5t 

) "s "l-9-wait+ to a neighbor+ temple1  
:]e lun* 0 prep>$ = !m by 8 cook1--a man
 ( rank4 ,iymits1  :ile tak+ 8 s\p 9 a  
hurry1 cru%$ a little /one betwe5 8     
tee?2 :]eupon he imm$iately insi/$ ^u ! 
cook's committ+  suicide4 ,! cook be+ a 
g5tleman1 a man ( affairs1 n a m]e arti/
  l poor ,vatel1 hesitat$1 & !n said3   
,no s\p made by me ev] _h  /ones or     
pebbles 9 x2 o!rwise ,i %\ld gladly kill
 myself3 y  g5tlem5 h begun d9n] at once
 )\t wa%+ h&s or *ang+  dress1 & "s     
pebble has dropp$ into ! s\p f y\r hair 
or  clo!s4 ,if aft] hav+ wa%$ y\r h&s & 
*ang$ y\r dress1 y  f9d any /ones 9 !   
s\p1 ,i %all kill myself4 ,:]eupon      
,iymits  did z 0 sugge/$ by ! cook1     
rep5t$ ( 8 own sev]ity1 &  increas$ !   
cook's pay4 ,b ! tutor & gu>dians (     
,iymits  wat*$ ov] him c>efully1 & !    
/ory ,i _h begun to tell %[s t  !y _h no
 s9ecure4    ,! tutors & gu>dians ( !   
bro!r1 :om ,iyyas _h decid$ to put      
aside 9 favor ( ,iymits1 7 naturally    
deeply aggriev$ & s\ght  = *ances to    

rega9 _! w>d's future p[] & _! own4     
,z my /ory began1 ,iymits1 repres5t+ !  
h]$it>y %ogunate1 0  call$ ^u to travel 
to ,nikko & wor%ip (ficially at 8       
gr&fa!r's tomb4 ,on 8 way x 0 natural t 
he %\ld re/ z we  did1 at ,utsunomiya1 &
 9 ! ca/le ( 8 vassal1 ,honda1 :o 0 "o  
( ! tutors ( 8 bro!r4 ,?is 0 ! son ( !  
great ,honda  ,masanobu1 ( :om ,i spoke 
above z a *ampion ( ,iyyas4    ,"h 0 an 
opportunity2 & a s*eme ( gett+ rid ( !  
"y %ogun  0 devis$ by 8 enemies t seem$ 
to !m suffici5tly obscure to  %ield !m 9
 case ( success or failure1 at lea/ = a 
"t4 ,?is  01 to h a movable ceil+ made  
to ! ba?-room weight$ 9 su* a  way z to 
fall ^u any "o 9 ! ba? & cru% him4 ,:e!r
 x 0 to  be lift$ aga91 & leave him     
dr[n$ 9 8 ba?1 or to rema9 z an  accid5t
 f faulty con/ruction1 ,i d n "k4    ,to
 build ?is ma*9e1 t5 c>p5t]s 7 set to "w
 )9 ! ca/le  & kept jeal\sly            
seclud$1--ev5 :5 ! "w 0 done1 = ! "y    
%ogun delay$ 8 com+4 ,! conf9em5t frett$
 ! m51 among :om  0 a "y lov]1 anxi\s to

 get back to 8 swee!>t1 & n to be       
satisfi$ ) ! good food & dr9k provid$ to
 appease him4 ,he told  ( 8 long+s to ! 
gatekeep]1 ^: duty x 0 to keep him      
imprison$1 brib$ him ) 8 own h&some pay 
& promise ( a  punctual return1 & at la/
 manag$ to get out & be happy = a few   
mom5ts4 ,! girl ( 8 love 0 inquisitive1 
b reassur$ by  explanation t ! "w 0     
done1 & t he %\ld soon be out  aga92 yet
 n be=e ! %ogun %\ld h come & gone on 8 
way to  ,nikko4 ,& s he return$ to !    
gatekeep] at ! "t appo9t$4  ,mean:ile1  
dur+ t v night1 ! (fic]s ( ! ca/le _h   
gone  _! r\nds & f\nd "o man abs5t4 ,9 !
 morn+ ! roll-call 0  full4 ,?is 0      
report$ to ! "l ( ! ca/le1 :o decid$ t  
if  he c\ld n "k :o x 0 t _h be5 abs5t x
 0 wise to sil5ce  !m all4 ,!re=e1 ea* 0
 call$ to be paid & dismiss$1 &1 z  he  
/epp$ out1 0 behead$4 ,! gatekeep]1     
gett+ w9d ( :at 0  happ5+ & fe>+        
puni%m5t1 ran away1 & be+ ask$ by ! girl
  ab\t h] lov]1 told h] :at he knew & t 
he believ$ all !  c>p5t]s to h be5      

kill$4    ,s9ce h] lov] 0 dead1 %e      
det]m9$ to die also1 hav+ be5 !  cause (
 8 dea? & ( ! dea? ( 8 companions4 ,%e  
wrote out all  ?is1 toge!r ) :at h] lov]
 _h told h] ( 8 belief &  suspicions1 & 
left ! lett] = h] fa!r & "m1 :o receiv$ 
x along ) ! tid+s ( h] suicide4 ,! fa!r1
 9 an agony (  di/ress & fe>1 = !re 0   
dang] to ! :ole family f e  side1 made  
up 8 m9d to /op ! %ogun at all haz>ds1 &
 9 !  dep? ( ! night made 8 way to      
,i%iba%i1 :]e "o ( ! pr9ces  _h prec$$  
,iymits1 :o 0 to pass ! night /ill fur!r
 back on  ! road4    ,"h !re 0          
difficulty ab\t gett+ a private int]view
 ) s  great a man z ?is pr9ce1 ^: "n y w
 rememb] z be+ !  title ( ! =m] own] (  
our fri5d's h\se 9 ,nikko3 ,ii1 ,kammon 
no  ,kami4    ,! lett] 0 %[n to ,ii1 :o 
despat*$ two mess5g]s1 g5tlem5 (  8 own1
 "o back to ,y$o1 to see to ! safety ( !
 ca/le !re2 !  o!r "o to ,iymits1 b by a
 circuit\s r\te1 s t he might  appe> to 
h come ! o!r way4 ,! lett] 0 to ! effect
 t !  "y %ogun's fa!r 0 v ill & desir$ 8

 son's imm$iate  return4 ,by ! "t t     
,iymits c\ld get into 8 litt]1 ,ii _h   
arriv$ & %[n him ! girl's lett]4 ,!n !  
occupants ( !  litt]s 7 *ang$1          
,matsudaira tak+ ,iymits's norimono &   
,iymits ,matsudaira's4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 0 
to give ano!r *ance (  escape 9 case (  
sudd5 attack by a l>g] =ce1 = !y 7 n[ 9 
enemy's c\ntry & did n "k :at traps     
might be laid = !m4 ,!  be>]s ( !       
palanqu9 press$ ?r\gh ! night1 s t1     
leav+ at  midnight1 !y arriv$ at ,y$o ! 
foll[+ ev5+2 b ! /ra9  _h be5 s great t 
!y c\ld g no fur!r4 ,!re 0 /ill !  fe> (
 attack1 & among ! ret9ue "o v /rong    
man1 ,matsudaira  ,i%ikawa1 c>ri$ !     
litt] ( ! pr9ce himself4 ,b ! gates 7   
clos$1 & ! gu>ds refus$ to recognize !  
unkn[n litt] z t  ( ! %ogun2 nor w\ld   
!y1 fe>+ trea*]y1 op5 :5 told t  ,iymits
 _h return$4 ,delays ensu$1 b at la/    
admission 0 obta9$  = ,iymits ?r\gh a   
wicket gate--& he 0 safe4 ,lat]1 aft]   
cauti\s delays1 ! guilty 7 puni%$1 & ,i 
hope ! family ( !  c>p5t]'s love escap$4

 ,:5 ,i fir/ read ! /ory1 ye>s ago1 !   
v]sion 0 diff]5t1 & !re 0 "s arrangem5t 
( x1 m  romantic--) "s circum/ances     
?r\gh :i* ! "y c>p5t] &  8 swee!>t      
escap$1 & alone ! fa!r1 innoc5t ( h>m1  
committ$ suicide4 ,! /ory s\nd$         
suffici5tly ,japanese & upside  d[n & 0 
pretty1 b ,i h =gott5 its convolutions1 
s t ,i  give y ?is "o1 :i* ,i ?9k has a 
pleasant local color4 ,x has  local     
color1 & t *>m ( action :i* belongs to  
su* hi/ories z  ^? ( ! great ,dumas--n  
to m5tion ,mr4 ,fr\de4    ,d n =get t ^!
 details are giv5 = y\r amusem5t1 & n  =
 y\r in/ruction4 ,i am q unc]ta9 z to ! 
hi/orical value (  my in=mation z soon z
 ,i come d[n to close p>ticul>s4 ,:at   
little  ,i really "k comes d[n f e>ly   
read+ ( ! mission>ies & (  ! ,dut*1 & t 
is mo/ly outside impression1 ?\gh !reby 
valuable1 because n bas$ on !ory or     
pr9ciple4    ,i d n "k t critical hi/ory
 has yet begun "h4 ,b 9 !  hi/orical    
place :]e we h sp5t our summ]1 talk ab\t
 ! pa/ 0  b natural & all to be li/5$ to

 )\t mu* *ance = u to  di/+ui% :at 0 (  
record & :at 0 ( leg5d4 ,:at ,i h be5   
writ+ ab\t is leg5d1 & ,i am w>n$ ( its 
complicat$  incorrectness4 ,t has n     
prev5t$ my sett+ x d[n4 ,y w\ld l  !    
pretty murd]\s /ory ^: details reflect a
 peculi> pa/4 ,x  w\ld be no?+ to y if x
 7 n at all ,iymits1 b 8 fa!r           
,hidetada1 = ^: de/ruction ! fam\s plot 
( ! ,hang+ ,ceil+  0 hat*$4 ,nor w\ld y 
c>e if ! ceil+ & ba?-room _h nev]       
exi/$4 ,:at is wor? hav+ is t _m p ?\ght
 t !y saw  !mselves 9 ! mirror ( a      
p]iod4    ,n[ see h[ re-arrang+ ! atoms 
( :i* ! previ\s /ory is  con/itut$ w    
give y q ano!r picture t ,i w\ld sp>e y1
  ?\gh x is a correct hi/orical "o1 b x 
has ! advantage ( be+  q z /range 9     
c]ta9 ways1 ?\gh n s fitt$ = ! !at]1  & 
( giv+ y aga9 a picture ( feudal ,japan4
    ,z ,i said be=e1 ! /ory z ,i h j    
told x has be5 kept 9  memory1 if n     
inv5t$ on purpose1 ?r\gh a book writt5 9
 honor ( a  ,japanese oppos$ to ,honda1 
! ma/] ( ! ca/le1 ! au?or ( !  plot ( ! 

,hang+ ,ceil+4 ,!re may h be5 su* a /ory
 afloat at  t "t among p ( l[ degree    
kept out f ! _m secrets (  ! c\rt1 b    
kn[+ t ?+s 7 be+ done2 at ! same "t1    
!re is no?+ t w\ld acc\nt = a suffici5t 
reason2 &1 worse  ?an all1 ! date is    
impossible4 ,"y ,iymits 0 n 9 any       
position  at t possible date 7eigh? ye> 
( ! ,g5wa7 to repres5t !  %ogunate4 ,8  
fa!r ,hidetada w\ld h be5 ! propos$     
victim1  :i* is aga9 impossible because 
( ! devotion ( ,honda1 ! "l (  ! ca/le1 
to ,hidetada4 ,t !re 0 su* an accusation
 ,i believe is  und]/ood4 ,x 0 met at ! 
"t & at once disprov$ to !  satisfaction
 ( ! %ogun4 ,x 0 ! ,lady ,kano :o _h    
d5\nc$  ,honda1 & app>5tly inv5t$ !     
plot4 ,%e 0 a daught] ( ,iyyas1  & _h1  
p]haps1 "s ( ! fi]ce /ra9 said to h %[n 
9 h]  "m & si/]4 ,h] baby gr&son _h only
 j be5 depriv$ ( ?is  v fief = !        
advantage ( ,honda1 s t %e _h at lea/   
?is  grievance4 ,& %e 0 unit$ 9 int5tion
 ) ! wife ( ! %ogun  ,hidetada4 ,?is 0 a
 beautiful & wilful woman1--kn[n to u by

 h]  aft]-dea? "n ( ,sog591 ^: pref]5ce 
= ,iymits's bro!r1  h] son also1 _h met 
,honda's resi/ance4 ,y c realize t ,i am
 n  capable ( ev5 discuss+ ! "q1 & t ,i 
am only do+ x to  amuse y & to br+ 9 m  
pictures4    ,z ! %ogun 0 to be receiv$ 
by ! "l ( ,utsunomiya1 new  additions 7 
ord]$ = 8 ca/le1 ! bridges & roads 7    
repair$1 :i* works requir$ all !        
labor]s1 skill$ or o!rwise1  ( 8 doma9s1
 & ev5 oblig$ him to draw ^u 8 reta9]s &
  soldi]s4 ,su* enorm\s prep>ations 71 (
 c\rse1 nois$ abroad4  ,n[1 x s happ5$ t
 at "o "t ,honda's fa!r _h be5 conc]n$  
9 an insurrection1 or levy ( arms1 (    
c]ta9 memb]s ( ! ,buddhi/  sect to :i*  
he belong$1 & _h f\ght ! great ,iyyas1  
:om  aft]w>ds he s]v$ s fai?fully4      
,among ! uphold]s ( ! fai?  7 fight+    
monks1 a v>iety ( ! militant *ur* well  
kn[n 9 !  annals ( ,japan4 ,at ! close (
 ?is rebellion a b& ( ^!  monks--some?+ 
l a hundr$--& a hundr$ o!r w>riors 7    
intru/$--,japanese-way--to ! w>d%ip ( _!
 =m] fell[  p>tisan1 & !re !y 7 h&y =   

use4 ,b !y _h reta9$  some?+ ( bo? !    
cl]gyman & ! w>rior1 keep+ _! prie/ly   
names & we>+ _! hair un%orn1 & !y refus$
 to "w1 :i* 9  _! eyes w\ld h assimilat$
 !m to common soldi]s & labor]s4        
,!reupon1--& ?is 0 ?\ght to be que] ev5 
9 ^? days1--!  "l ( ! ca/le invit$ !m to
 g ab\t ! c\ntry & report ^u  c]ta9     
matt]s 9 v>i\s places1 at :i* places !y 
7 met by  bodies ( arm$ m51 :o put an   
end to !m4 ,i suppose t1 accord+  to    
/rict views ( ! c\ntry & "t1 ?is 0      
ju/ifiable1 ?\gh  excessive1 & ?is is "o
 ( ! little pictures t ,i wi% to frame4 
,y see h[ ! unpleasantness ( ! occasion 
might help ! lat]  /ories (             
assass9ation4    ,& n[1 9 correct+ ano!r
 error1 ,i c give y ano!r picture (     
feudal ,japan1 a ,japan n[ brok5 up1    
aga9/ ^: la/ rul]s1 !  ,tokugawa1 ,i he>
 daily s mu*4 ,t lady 9 ! /ory j giv5 y1
  :]e %e is ! "m ( ,iymits & ! concub9e 
( 8 fa!r1 !  %ogun1 0 a v diff]5t p]son4
    ,little ,iymits 0 ! legitimate son2 
moreov]1 ! "o :o by date (  bir? 0 !    

probable heir1 not)/&+ ! pref]5ce %[n by
 8  fa!r & 8 "m1 ,sog591 = 8 y\ng]      
bro!r4 ,s t !  succession 0 decid$      
abruptly by ! /]n head ( ! family1      
,iyyas4    ,great att5tion 0 paid by !  
gr&fa!r1 ! great ,iyyas1 to !  education
 ( ?is gr&son4 ,z a ,japanese fri5d     
rem>k$1 he believ$  t ! important place 
9 ! g5]ation 0 t ( ! ?ird man4 ,s  t    
?ree di/+ui%$ noblem5 7 appo9t$ 8       
gov]nors3 ,sakai1  to tea* b5evol5ce2   
,doi1 to tea* wisdom2 ,awoyama1 to tea* 
valor4  ,besides ^! great pr(essors = ! 
future1 ! little boy ne$$ an  imm$iate  
tra9+ by a gov]ness good 9 e way4       
,kasuga1 a m>ri$  woman1 ! daught] ( a  
well-kn[n w>rior ( imp]ial desc5t :o _h 
lo/ 8 life 9 "s conspiracy ( ! previ\s  
g5]ation1 0 *os5  by ! gov]nm5t = !     
position4 ,?is 01 p]haps1 z great an    
honor z c\ld be (f]$ to any lady4       
,besides1 !re 0 an opportunity  to cle> 
! memory ( h] fa!r4 ,& %e begg$ h] husb&
 to divorce  h] t %e might be free to   
give all h] life to ?is task4 ,s devot$ 

0 %e t ! boy be+ at "o "t at ! po9t (   
dea?1 %e  (f]$ h]self to ! gods = 8     
recov]y1 v[+ nev] to take any  rem$y4 ,9
 h] la/ illness %e refus$ all m$ic9e1 & 
ev5 :5  ,iymits--n[ rul]--begg$ h] to   
take a comm5d$ draught f 8  h&1 %e      
m]ely1 out ( polit5ess1 all[$ x to moi/5
 h] lips1  say+ t h] "w 0 done1 t %e 0  
ready to die1 & t h]  life _h long ago  
be5 (f]$ = ! ma/]4 ,nor w\ld %e all[ !  
ma/] to indulge h] ) reg>d to h] own    
son4 ,he 0 9 exile1  des]v$ly1 & ! %ogun
 ask$ h] p]mission to p>don him1 9 !    
belief ( possible am5dm5t4 ,%e refus$1  
bidd+ ,iymits to rememb]  8 lesson3 t ! 
law ( ! c\ntry 0 above all ?+s1 & t  %e 
_h nev] expect$ su* words f him4        
,moreov]1 t _h he  revok$ ! law = h]1 %e
 c\ld n die 9 peace4 ,!re is a ,sp>tan  
polit5ess 9 all ?is1 = :i* ,i ?9k !     
/ories wor? sav+ to  y4    ,& !y w help 
to give ,iymits exi/5ce = y4 ,he seems  
too  vague 9 ! temple d$icat$ to him at 
,nikko1 ev5 :5 we look at 8  bronze tomb
 & are told t he lies !re pack$ 9       

v]milion3 our  m9ds h become s f> remov$
 f ! ways ( ?9k+ ( ,japan t  a div9iz$  
mortal is an empty phrase = u4    ,!    
details ( su* /ories z ,i h told w\ld n 
h seem$ v  antiquat$ across ! seas1 at  
_! date1 to ^? :o rememb]$ !  days (    
,que5 ,elizabe?4 ,! *ange has be5 z     
great 9 ,europe z 9  ,japan1 b "h x has 
be5 sudd51 l ! %ift+ ( ! sc5e (  ! !at]2
 s t ,i c realize t :5 ,i 0 a boy su*   
?+s z  ,i am tell+ y w\ld n h seem$ v   
old-fa%ion$ h]eab\ts4    ,& n[ ,i make  
my notes 9 ?is little railroad coa*1 ) !
  telegraph wires runn+ 9 & out ( !     
picture t ,i see ?r\gh my  w9d[2 &1     
inde$1 x is ?is impli$ contra/ :i* ,i   
?9k has urg$  me mo/ to tell y ^! m or  
less accurate anecdotes4    ,if y wi%$  
to le>n m ab\t ,iymits f ! ,japanese    
biography  t ,i h ) me1 y might be      
puzzl$4 ,"o has felt s di/9ctly  !      
all-p[]fulness ( ! m5 ^: names & /ories 
are ! out]  hi/ory ( ,japan4 ,s full is 
! impression =c$ ^u "o by !  outside ( !
 life ( su* a rul] z ,iymits1 b\nd$     

betwe5 !  wor%ip ( 8 gr&fa!r 9 gold5    
temples & 8 own wor%ip 9  almo/ equal   
spl5dors1 & fill$ 9 by despotic use (   
p[]1 t x  leaves little place = ! !ory (
 all ?is p[] com+ f !  ,mikado1 :o      
practically liv$ ^u a n>r[ income       
apportion$ to him by  8 lieut5ant1 !    
%ogun4 ,b 9 my little biography1 writt5 
evid5tly to keep to pres5t views &      
!ories1 ,i le>n t t[>d !  emp]or our    
impati5t h]o 0 fai?ful & humble--& "p ( 
8  /ory consi/s ( visits to ! emp]or & (
 8 receiv+ honors f  ?is s\rce ( all    
honor4 ,?us1 ^u 8 com+ ( age1 & hav+ 8  
hair trimm$1 cut1 & %av$ 9 a mann] to   
indicate ?is important  ev5t1 ! emp]or  
s5ds a great c\rt (fic] to complim5t    
him1 gives  him ! "n ( ,iymits1 honors  
him ) ! rank ( ,junii1 &  appo9ts him a 
,g ,da9agon4 ,also1 lat] he appo9ts him 
to be !  comm&] ( ! "r w+ ( ! imp]ial   
gu>d1 & also  sup]9t5d5t ( ! ,"r        
,imp]ial ,/able4 ,!reupon ,iymits calls 
^u 8 maje/y at ,kioto to pay 8 homage1 &
 is made  comm&]-9-*ief ( ! army & navy1

 & moreov] ,naidaiz91 )  ! rank (       
,%onii2 & he is also p]mitt$ to ride 9  
an ox-c>riage  & to h arm$ body-gu>ds2 !
 latt] privilege "o t he _h be5  oblig$ 
to enjoy p]=ce f e>ly days1 z we h se54 
,:]eupon1  says my *ronicl]1 ,iymits _h 
! honor ( pres5t+ to 8 maje/y  a ye>ly  
income ( tw5ty ?\s& bags ( rice2 & ?is  
goes on until  aft] 8 dea?1 :5 ! emp]or 
gives him ^! titles = ! future1  ! "n ( 
,daik5-,91 ! rank ( ,%oi*i1 & ! premi]  
(fice (  ,daijo-,daiz94 ,! favor ( ,five
 ,imp]ial poems 0 also ext5d$ to !      
deceas$4    ,iymits 0 fond ( pa9t+1 &   
/udi$ "u ! in/ruction ( ,kano  ,tanyu4  
,he lik$ to pa9t ! sacr$ m\nta9 ,fuji1 &
 ! same  c\rte\s *ronicl] tells me t "s 
( 8 "w 0 bett] ?an  ,tanyu's4 ,b ,i %\ld
 pref] see+1 be=e decid+2 ?\gh ,tanyu's 
imp]turbable security makes "o n a      
little bor$4    ,x is d>k2 we are       
approa*+ ,iymits's city1 ,tokio1 =m]ly  
,y$o1  ! city ( ! ,tokugawa1 n[ f9ally  
return$ to ! emp]or1 to :om  !y gave !  
?\s&s ( bags ( rice = income4 ,we %all  

sleep at  ,no4 #bb ,yokohama1#h & look  
out on ! wat] aga94         #g ,p>iahs4 
,_! occupations 7 to slaught] animals1  
tan       lea!r1 att5d at executions1   
etc4 ,! class1 z su*1 is       n[       
aboli%$1 b remnants ( its peculi> dress 
may /ill       occasionally be se5 9 !  
p]sons ( "y girls ) broad hats       :o 
g ab\t ! /reets play+ & s++4 7,sat[74   
#h ,all ( ,yokohama giv5 to =eign       
settlem5t 0 laid out by       numb]+1 & 
reta9s x1 ap>t f any o!r designation4   
,,yokohama--,,kamakura                  
,,yokohama1 ,septemb] #a1 #ahhf4        
,naturally we h aga9 be5 w&]+ 9 ,tokio2 
,i don't "k t we  h se5 any?+ m1 z we   
%\ld c]ta9ly d if we _h any en]gy  9 !  
heat4 ,x is m natural to fritt] away "t 
9 little ?+s4  ,besides1 !re is a g5]al 
feel+ ( disc\ragem5t accompany+ !       
cont9uance ( *ol]a2 & ?is is an         
unseasonable mom5t4 ,!at]s are  clos$2 p
 are away4 ,if ,i _h to give an acc\nt (
 my "t1 ,i c\ld  n make x up4 ,i "k t ,i
 w5t to see an engrav] on wood2 t he    

%[$ me 8 "w1 or 8 way ( work+1 ( :i* ,i 
knew a little2  t he made me dr9k "s    
*]ry-blossom tea1 pretty to look at & ( 
unseizable flavor2 t he took me to see  
"s ( 8 "w pr9t$2 t  ,i climb$ up a      
ladd]1 some:]e into a hot room1 :]e a   
man1 nak$ b  = 8 lo9-clo?1 sat slapp+   
pieces ( pap] ) a big bru% ^u  ! block  
previ\sly t\*$ ) color2 & t ! dext]ity )
  :i* he fitt$ ! pap] 9 prop] place1 s t
 ! colors %\ld n  ov]lap1 0 z simple &  
primitive z 8 dress4    ,!n ,i w5t to   
see ! pa9t] ^: draw+s _h be5 engrav$4 ,i
 c't  expla9 j :y ! arrangem5t ( 8      
c\rty>d seem$ :at ,i might  h expect$1 &
 yet ,i /ill keep t impression )\t hav+ 
notic$ any?+ b ! heat--! heat & ! sun--!
 heat  accumulat$ 9 ?is big dre>y city (
 innum]able little h\ses4    ,we expla9$
 at ! door our reque/1 & aft] a few     
mom5ts we 7  told t ! pa9t]1 ?\gh he 0  
ill1 w\ld see u4 ,we ent]$1 &  sat      
a:ile1 dur+ :i* int]val a boy pupil1    
occupi$ 9 copy+  sket*es ( ! ma/]1 look$
 at u surreptiti\sly ?r\gh a circul>    

op5+ 9 ! p>tition t made him a room4    
,our arti/ came 9 & sat d[n1 evid5tly an
 ill man1 & (f]$ u  ! inevitable tea1 & 
%[$ u 8 me?ods ( prep>ation = !  color$ 
wood-blocks1 & got d[n examples f !     
great pile ( rolls  & bundles ( pap]s & 
draw+s t fill$ "o side ( ! room1  among 
:i* ,i notic$ _m fragm5ts ( illu/rat$   
,engli% or ,am]ican  newspap]s4 ,& we   
d>$ n intrude any fur!r1 & dep>t$--j z  
! conv]sation _h turn$ t[>d ,european   
art--) gifts ( draw+s  f him & promise (
 ex*ange4    ,no2 :at we h really done  
is aga9 to call at %ops & beg9 ov]  aga9
 ! pursuit ( bric--brac4 ,x is s        
impossible to believe t we  c f9d no?+ 9
 all ! accumulation ( all ^! %ops4 ,b   
ev5 if  x be s1 ! mann] ( hunt+ is an   
amusem5t1 z is ! m]e see+  ( all ?is    
/uff 9 its own home2 & ! little         
att5tions ( !  deal]1 ! be+ 9 a h\se ) !
 privileges ( tea & smok+1 &  a lazy w> 
( attack & def5se2 & ! sl[ draw+ out (  
pieces  f bags & boxes1 s t "t1 ! great 
enemy1 is put 9 ! wrong4  ,& !n1 :at "o 

is n expect$ to buy or look at is q z   
good4 ,i  "k ( "o place to :i* ,i h     
return$ to look out ( ! %oji  scre5s    
into ! g>d51 :]e !re is a big pott]y    
/atue ( ,kwannon4  ,i don't int5d to get
 x or to b>ga9 ab\t x1 b ,i int5d to buy
  o!r ?+s "u its influ5ce2 p]haps !     
daimio seats t we use  9 our visit1 or !
 lant]ns t light u :5 we /ay late1 ^:   
oil  w h to be empti$ if !y are sold4 ,&
 !re are places :]e  ?+s are = sale to p
 v]s$ 9 ,*9ese ways ( ?9k+1 b  :]e      
amateurs on ! w+ l ourselves are n      
enc\rag$1 & t  is c]ta9ly s$uctive4     
,/ill1 ,i am afraid t we %all miss a    
great  deal t we wi% to see1 because (  
?is dawdl+ 9 %ops4    ,& yet !re is no  
sadness foll[+ ^! visits1 su* z has come
  ^u u :5 we h gone to see "s ( ! mod]n 
work]s4 ,f !m  we dep>t ) no m hope4 ,x 
is l "s puzzles1 l ! hav+  li/5$ to an  
argum5t :i* y "k is bas$ on "s          
inaccuracy t  y _c at ! mom5t detect4   
,?is ab\t ! bett]1 ! new p]fect  "w1 if 
,i c call x p]fect1 means only high f9i%

 & equal c>e4  ,b ! individual pieces   
are less & less individual2 !re is no m 
surprise4 ,! means or me?ods are be+    
c>ri$ fur!r & beyond1  s t "o asks "o's 
self1 ,!n :y ^! me?ods at all8 ,!  /yle 
( ?is f9] mod]n "w is poor]1 no long]   
connect$ )  ! great] design1 z if       
ambition 0 go+ into me?od & value (     
mat]ial4 ,j h[ f> ?is is ow+ to u ,i _c 
tell1 b ! m>ket  is l>gely ,european1 & 
:at is done has a vague appe>ance (     
look+  less & less out ( place among our
 works1 & has1 z ,i said be=e1  less &  
less sugge/ion ( individuality4 ,none ( 
x w\ld ev] give  "o ! slight %ock ( an  
exception1 none ( x w\ld h !  appe>ance 
:i* we "k ( our own be/ "w1 ! feel+ t we
 are  n go+ to see m ( x4 ,?is /atem5t  
applies to ! be/ "w2  ! m common "w is  
m]ely a degradation1 ! us+ ( "s "p (  ! 
me?ods2 j en\gh to sell x1 & to meet "s 
easily def9$  imm$iate comm]cial ne$s4  
,i saw ! beg9n+s ye>s ago1 & ,i c       
rememb] "o ( our great ,new ,york deal]s
 m>k+ on 8 samples !  colors t pleas$   

mo/ ( 8 buy]s1 :o !mselves aga9 7 to    
place ! goods 9 ,o%ko% or ,?ird ,av5ue4 
,all o!r colors or  patt]ns 7 taboo$ 9 8
 in/ructions to ! mak]s 9 ,japan4 ,?is  
0 ! rude me*anism ( ! *ange1 ! com+ d[n 
to ! wor/  public ta/e1 :i* mu/ be t ( !
 greate/ numb] at any giv5  "t2 =       
comm]ce 9 su* matt]s is ( ! mom5t3 !    
sale ( !  wood5 nutmeg1 good en\gh until
 us$4 ,h ,i n se5 ?r\gh !  enorm\s ,we/ 
any am\nt ( ! wor/ /a9$ glass1 all d]iv$
 f  :at ,i made myself1 "s ye>s ago1 z a
 /ep t[>d a developm5t (  great] ri*ness
 & delicacy 9 ! art ( glass8 ,& my      
rivalry (  preci\s /ones _h come to ?is 
ignoble end & c>icature4 ,!  comm]cial  
man1 or ! semi-pr(essional man :om we   
call ! ar*itect1  mu/ cont9ually ask =  
some?+ poor]1 some?+ to meet !  advanc+ 
flood ( cli5ts & pur*as]s1 some?+ m     
easily plac$  any:]e1 at r&om1 )\t      
tr\ble or responsibility1 & reflect+  ! 
public--z x is m easy to fit 9 a common 
tile ?an ! mo/  beautiful ,p]sian "o--9 
! av]age ( build+s made !mselves to     

meet ! same common dem&4 ,& s ) all     
appli$ beauty2 !  degradation is always 
liable to occur4    ,japan is an        
exceptional place = /udy+ ^! *anges2 we 
c see  !m gradually evolv$--all z if by 
vivisection ( "s morbid anatomy4  ,!    
/udy ( ^! diseases & infections ( art at
 home is att5d$  ) moral di/ress &      
intellectual disgu/1 because we are all 
9 "p  responsible2 b "h we c see x      
dis9t]e/$ly1 & speculate                
dispassionately ^u ! degradation ( good 
?+s result+ f !  dem&s ( bus9ess4    ,7 
x q 9 ! l9e ( :at y expect to-day f me1 
,i might  make out = y ! l9es ( ! old   
s*eme ( civilization "u :i*  =m] "w 0   
done4 ,! feudal organization ( ,japan   
divid$ !  c\ntry into prov9ces ( di/9ct 
habits & modes ( "w--m or  less isolat$1
 p>tly by want ( easy or g5]al          
communication1 p>tly  by ! political    
int]e/s ( _! rul]s & ( ! ma9 gov]nm5t1  
p>tly by ! p]man5ce ( ! prov9cial feel+ 
:i* prev5t$ !  inhabitant ( "o place    
mov+ to ano!r to f9d occupation &       

employm5t4 ,! rule ( ! idea ( ! family1 
:i* is /ill great 9  ,japan1 kept ?+s 9 
! same ord]1 pres]v$ all traditions1 &  
at  ! same "t (f]$ opportunities1 by    
adoption1 to individuals :o  might      
increase or keep up ! family reputation 
or influ5ce4 ,"h1 too1  ,i suppose1 is !
 basis ( a c]ta9 dignity & p]sonal      
indep5d5ce  9 ! mann]s ( ! p :i* runs 9 
) _! c\rtesy4 ,e  "o mu/ h kn[n :at 0   
expect$ ( him1 & h felt q free  aft] t  
duty paid4 ,)9 ?is c\rtesy t ,i see all 
ab\t me1 ,i  feel some?+ ( :at we might 
call democratic1 = want ( a bett]  "n4  
,i recognize x 9 ! mann] ( ! subord9ate1
 :o takes an  app>5tly p]sonal int]e/ 9 
?+s1 aft] 8 duty ( polit5ess &  ob$i5ce 
is paid4 ,& ?\gh !re 0 no absolute ca/e1
 z we  und]/& x1 except 9 su* a case z t
 ( ! ,eta1 ! l9es (  life 7 /rictly laid
 out1 until ! new laws1 :i* h made ?+s  
op5 m or less to all4#i ,) ^! *anges1 ) 
di/urbances (  =tune1 ) ! loss ( p[] & (
 income on ! "p ( ! small  rul]s1 ) a   
c\ntry all laid out n[ 9 prefectures1 ) 

!  necess>ily increas+ p[] (            
bureaucracy1 ! :ole tone (  individual  
life mu/ *ange1 mu/ become less         
indep5d5t 9 any "o  ?+1 m indep5d5t     
app>5tly 9 g5]al--mu/ flatt5 out1 if ,i 
may s express x4 ,& ! artisan w h to    
foll[ ! c\rse (  trade & its            
fluctuations until "s g5]al level has   
be5  e/abli%$--"s g5]al level (         
manufactures1 ,i mean1 = !re is  no     
g5]al level possible 9 art4 ,some?+ w   
happ5 :i* w  resemble ! ways ( ,france1 
:]e art /ill exi/s1 b :]e ?+s  h be5 s  
manag$ t any arti/ out ( ! g5]al level  
has _h a  v bad "t ( x--! :ole live =ces
 ( ! nation1 9 trade &  bureaucracy1 be+
 aga9/ 8 liv+ easily any life ( 8 own4  
,:5  ! =ces ( traditional ta/e & skill &
 habits ( indu/ry n[  exi/+ 9 ,japan    
%all h be5 organiz$ anew1 ,japan1 l     
,france1  w h und\bt$ly a great "p to   
play 9 indu/rial trade4    ,art may live
 or may n 9 ! future "h2 no?+ ( :at has 
be5  done else:]e to gr[ x or fo/] x has
 made x /rong]4 ,x has  always come by !

 grace ( ,god1 to be help$ :5 x is "h1  
or *ok$  out2 b no g>d5] has ev] se5 its
 se$4 ,"s ( my fri5ds 9 ,japan  are     
plung$ 9 a movem5t to save :at !re is ( 
! pa/ 9 art1 to  keep its traditions1 to
 keep tea*+ 9 ! old ways1 )\t direct    
opposition to :at may be good 9 ! new4  
,!y see ar\nd !m !  break+ up ( :at has 
be5 f9e1 & ! new influ5ces produc+      
no?+1 n ev5 bad imitations ( ,europe4 ,i
 "k too little ^u :at  _! hopes are     
bas$1 b ,o----1 :o is 9 ! t5d5cy1 sails 
)  u = ,am]ica & ,europe1 & ,i may f9d  
out m ?r\gh him4  ,mean:ile he is to    
inquire ) ,pr(essor ,f---- into !       
education (  ! arti/ & artisan ) u1 & to
 see h[ we d x4 ,i am deeply  int]e/$ 9 
_! und]tak+1 p]haps ! mo/ rem>kable (   
all  simil> inquiries--if hone/ly       
conduct$4 ,b ,i see vague visions (     
di/ort$ values1 ( comm]cial au?orities  
look$ ^u z arti/ic1 (  ! same           
difficulties1 = in/ance1 t ,i might meet
 if ,i wi%$ n[  to make an (ficial      
report1 n to ! public or to gov]nm5t1--t

 is  always easy1--b to myself1 :o h no 
special int]e/ 9 be+  misl$1 ( ! me?ods 
( art & indu/ry t h be5 & exi/ 9  !     
,ea/4    444 ,?ree days are wa/$4 ,i d  
sc>cely any "w1 & !re comes to  me1 z a 
puni%m5t1 a feel+ ( ! littl5ess ( a     
great deal "h1  com+1 ,i ?9k1 f ! actual
 smallness ( _m details--( ! sizes  ( ! 
little h\ses1 ( ! little g>d5s1 ( !     
frail mat]ials1 (  ! set mann]s4    444 
,to-morr[ we %all g to some?+ great1 to 
! great /atue1 !  ,daibuts1 at          
,kamakura1 & p]haps we may ev5 pu% z f> 
z  no%ima1 b ,i d\bt x4 ,x w be our la/ 
day1 z we %all sail !  foll[+ morn+ =   
,kobe4 ,z ,i run along ! /reets ( ,tokio
 9 !  aft]noon1 ) ! feel+ t ,i h tri$ to
 set d[n1 ( ?+s  hav+ n>r[$ z !y become 
famili>1 comes ! excit$ melan*oly (     
dep>ture1 & ?is same ugl9ess & prett9ess
 h a new value z ,i  look ^u !m = ! la/ 
"t4 ,i sit 9 ! little tea-h\se ne> !    
/ation1 wait+ = ,a----1 & dr9k ! p[d]$  
tea1 :i* ta/es  bett] ?an ev]1 z a      
/irrup-cup4 ,& ,i d n res5t ! famili>ity

  ( a big ,*9aman1 pr\d ( 8 ,engli%1 & (
 national sup]iority  "h 9 size &       
comm]cial value1 :o addresses me & seeks
 to f9d  out :e!r ,i1 too1 h a comm]cial
 value4 ,my answ]s puzzle him1 &  he    
leaves me unc]ta9 z to quantities1 &    
walks (f ) ! impud5t  maje/y ( 8 fell[s 
among ?is small] & less comm]cial race4 
444 ,at d9n] ,i see at ! table ne> me a 
,japanese g5tleman1 n v  "y1 d9+ ) 8    
wife & ano!r lady1 :o1 ,i am told1 is a 
well-kn[n gei-%a4 ,?is in=mation ,i     
receive f my m or less  tru/y c\ri]1 :o 
also gives me "s confus$ intimation t   
?is  g5tleman _h p>ticipat$ 9 ! murd] ( 
,ri*>dson1 ! ,engli%man1  _m ye>s ago1  
"u ! old rgime1 = :i* murd] somebody    
else 0  decapitat$4 ,! wife is correct &
 immovable1 ! gei-%a animat$1  ) a great
 deal ( color & *>m4 ,a ,g]man or       
,russian sits at  ano!r table1 heavy1   
diplomatic1 ?ick-be>d$2 ! gei-%a        
recognizes him1 rises1 goes ov] to 8    
table1 & b5ds v l[ be=e  him1 almo/     
kneel+2 !n speaks c\rte\sly & animat$ly1

 z if 9  complim5t1 to :i* ! diplomat1  
)\t turn+ 8 head1 says a ^w  or two     
di/antly4 ,!n ! gei-%a b5ds aga9 d[n to 
! table1 &  walks respectfully backw>d1 
& !n sw+s back into h] seat4 ,i am      
amus$ by ?is complete inv]sion ( our own
 habits1 & am rem9d$ (  ! mann]s &      
assidu\s att5tions ( our m5 at ! !at]s  
:5  !y call on ! indiff]5t fair4 ,i see1
 too1 t ! po9ts ( attack  & def5se mu/  
be diff]5t4    ,! heat 0 /ill int5se ev5
 9 ! night1 )9 fifty y>ds ( !  sea2 we  
w5t d[n to ! quay & hir$ a boat ) man & 
boy1 to  drift out into ! hazy          
moonlight4 ,! boy did ! ma9 "p ( !  "w3 
we lay 9 ! boat1 see+ no?+ b ?is little 
body1 & !  flapp+ ( its g>m5ts1 & ev]y?+
 else a vague space ( light5$  %ad[4 ,we
 r[$ or scull$ f> away1 came ne> to a   
%ore :]e !re  0 a tea-h\se1 = wom5 op5$ 
its clos$ sides &1 reveal$ by  _!       
lant]ns1 came d[n & call$ to u4 ,b we   
pull$ (f & lat]1  9 a f>-(f ocean ) no  
%ore nor sky1 came across a little      
summ]-h\se built on piles1 ?r\gh :i* !  

volume ( ! sea press$  & recoil$4 ,no?+ 
c\ld be m ab&on$1 m improbable4 ,!re  0 
no?+ 9 sight4 ,_h we ent]$ ! little     
pavilion1 & moor$ our  boat or let x    
float away1 we might h felt z if out 9 !
 di/ant  sea4 ,we 7 ! c5t] ( a globe (  
pe>l2 no edges nor outl9es (  any?+     
visible1 except a fa9t circul> light    
above1 f :i* !  pe>ly color fl[$        
tremul\sly1 & a few wr9kles ( silv] &   
d>k  bel[2 no s\nd b a g5tle sway (     
wat]4 ,& we came home1 hav+  _h ! s5se (
 ! possibility ( int5se isolation 9 a   
fairyl& (  twilight4                    
,,at ,,sea1 ,,(f ,,izu1 ,septemb] #c4   
,we sail$ ?is morn+ on ! ,fr5* /eam]4 ,x
 is n[ q late 9  ! aft]noon4 ,! ,pacific
 keeps its blue "u u1 & a blue sea haze 
sep>ates u f ! violets & gre5s ( !      
m\nta9s ( ! %ore1  beh9d :i* ! light is 
sl[ly s9k+4 ,all is g5tle & soo?+2  b   
our capta9 says t he is n sure1 & t hors
 d',izu n\s  aurons la h\le du          
,pacifique4 ,:ile wait+ = ?is long1     
angry roll1  ,i %all tell y ab\t        

ye/]day1 ( :i* !re 0 little--= we _h    
und]tak5 too mu*4    ,we left r too     
late1 & drove a good way 9 ! foggy      
morn+1  pass+ mu* culture1 & "u _m      
trees1 ( all ( :i* ,i rememb]  little4  
,x 0 late :5 we /opp$ to breakfa/ at !  
little inn f  :i* we 7 to be tak5 by    
kuruma1 fir/ to ! big /atue (  ,buddha1 
!n :]ev] we might h "t to g4 ,we left ! 
place1 &  rea*$ ! holl[ betwe5 hills :]e
 ! /atue dwells1 aft] pass+  ?r\gh a    
curi\s deep cutt+ "r ?r\gh ! rocks1 :i* 
m>ks "s  old approa* to ! =m] city2 = ^!
 holl[s & fields 7 once  cov]$ by a     
great city1 ! city ( ,kamakura1 ! city (
 ,yoritomo1 &  ! great /atue n[ out (   
doors 0 once 9 a temple ( t city4       
,places are %[n y 9 ! dells3 ?is 0 :]e 0
 once ! mansion  ( su* a h]o1 "h 0 t ( !
 adm9i/rators ( ! milit>y rule  9 !     
fifte5? c5tury2 "h /ood ! palace :]e1 ) 
8 two  hundr$ & eighty la/ foll[]s1 su* 
a "o retir$ to p]=m  h>akiri1 & p]i% 9 !
 flames1 :5 ov]:elm+ =ces _h  captur$ ! 
great city :i* 0 once ! o!r capital (   

,japan4 ,trees  & ord9>y culture cov] ^!
 spaces n[4    ,& "h 0 ! temple4        
,sixty-?ree pill>s support$ its ro(1 &  
_m ( _! bases are /ill !re4 ,b a great  
inundation f !  sea1 n[ "s miles di/ant1
 de/roy$ ! temple & its adjac5t         
build+s4 ,?is happ5$ z f> back z ! end (
 ! fifte5?  c5tury1 & ! temple has n be5
 rebuilt4 ,! desire ( ,yoritomo to  see 
! great /atue made dur+ 8 lifetime 0 n  
grant$2 b "o  ( 8 wait+-ladies1 aft] 8  
dea?1 collect$ ! necess>y funds1  & x   
appe>s to h be5 ca/ 9 #abeb by ,ono     
,g-r-ye-mon4 ,i "k  no?+ ab\t him1 b if 
he be ! arti/1 x is pleasant to record 8
  "n4 ,! image is made ( bronze ca/ 9   
pieces braz$ toge!r &  f9i%$ ) ! *isel4 
,x is ne>ly fifty feet high z x sits2 & 
if ^! po9ts help y to its size1 le>n t  
its eyes1 = in/ance1  are f\r feet long1
 ! l5g? across its lap f knee to knee is
  ?irty-five feet1 & ! circumf]5ce ( !  
?umb is fully ?ree  feet4 ,b ^!         
measures1 ?\gh !y %[ a l>ge scale &     
great size1  d n indicate a proportion1 

z we %\ld und]/& x4 ,! :ole  model+ is =
 effect1 & ! means & me?ods ( ! model+  
are  simple & elem5t>y4 ,l all "w done  
on ar*aic pr9ciples1 !  ma9 acc5tuations
 are ov]/at$1 & sav$ 9 _! relations by  
great  subtleties 9 ! l>ge surfaces4 ,x 
is emphatically model$ = a  colossus2 x 
is n a little ?+ made big1 l our mod]n  
colossal  /atues2 x has always be5 big1 
& w\ld be s if r$uc$ to  life-size4     
,we saw x fir/ f ! side ?r\gh trees1 z  
we ran rapidly to !  front1 :]e are a   
temple gate1 & a long c\rty>d /ill 9    
ord]1  t leads up to ! /atue4 ,f ! side 
"o c see h[ x b5ds  ov]1 & r\gh z x is f
 beh9d1 ! impression ( some?+ real  0   
/rong z its gray =m mov$ ?r\gh ! op5+s (
 ! trees4 ,!  photographs mu/ long h    
made y "k x1 & !y also %[ !  great base 
& ! imm5se temple ornam5ts t /& ^u x at 
!  feet ( ! /atue4 ,!y %[ also ! little 
lodge at ! side1 :]e  ! prie/ 9         
att5dance lives1 & gives in=mation1 &   
sells  photographs & takes !m1 & g5]ally
 acts z %[man4 ,we took _m  photographs 

f new po9ts ( view1 & we ev5 remov$ !   
?at* ( a  p5?\se s z to get ne>] & "u ! 
/atue to ! side2 & ,i  pa9t$ also1 m to 
get ! curi\s gray & violet tone ( !     
bronze  ?an to make a fai?ful draw+1 = t
 seem$ impossible 9 !  approa*+         
aft]noon4 ,we did n "k h[ long a "t we  
_h sp5t  l+]+ ab\t x4 ,! cl\ds _h begun 
to op51 & a fa9t autumnal  light fill$ !
 little holl[1 :i* has only small trees1
 & no  impos+ monum5ts l ! great        
cryptom]ia1 :i* alone might seem  fit to
 gr[ ab\t "h4 ,all1 on ! contr>y1 0     
g5tle & small--!  l9es ( ! hills1 !     
trees1 ! g>d5 plants ab\t u3 we might h 
be5 any:]e4 ,p]haps x is j z well2 !    
:ole impression comes  f ! /atue1 ) !   
only objection or detraction t we c get 
ne> en\gh to x to see ! me*anism1 !     
means1 & details ( its  expression4 ,an 
accid5t1 ! break+ ( its prison temple by
 a great  cataclysm ( nature1 a great   
wave ( ! sea com+ f> inl& &  de/roy+ !  
great build+1 has giv5 to ! /atue some?+
 t x  c\ld nev] h _h to ! physical      

eye--9 ! degree x has n[4 ,n[1  fre$ f  
its %r9e1 ! figure sits 9 contemplation 
( entire  nature1 ! :ole op5 _w t we    
feel ab\t u1 or its symbols--!  l&scape1
 ! hills1 ! trees & fields1 ! sky & its 
dep?s1 !  sun%9e play+ be=e ! eyes ( !  
seat$ figure1 ! air 9 :i*  dance all !  
?+s t live 9 air1 f ! birds t fly to !  
atoms ( du/1 & ! drift+ leaves &        
blossoms1 ! confusion or  ! peace ( !   
elem5ts1 ! sn[ 9 cry/als1 & ! ra9 9     
drops4  ,all ?is _w ( ours1 :i* to !    
contemplative m9d is b a  figurative    
fragm5t ( ! univ]se1 lies be=e ! m5tal  
gaze ( !  ,buddha4 ,unw9k+1 )\t *ange ( 
direction1 he looks =ev]2 8  w is =ev]  
subdu$ & held b5ea? him1 z 8 f+]s press$
  toge!r indicate 8 fre$om f all !      
di/urbances ( t pa/ (  be+ :i* is       
subject to "t & *ange1 & 8 cognition1   
undi/urb$1 envelops & images ! univ]se 9
 f9al contemplation4    ,a/\nd+ success 
( ! arti/ 9 :at he has really done1 =   
!re  is no trace ( means2 ! sum (       
realism is s slight1 ! conv5tional  has 

s great a "p2 ea* detail is almo/ m ( an
 ornam5t ?an ( a  repres5tation4 ,"o    
almo/ believes t ! result may be p>tly  
accid5tal3 t1 z "o _c fa?om ! reason ( !
 expressiv5ess  ( a c\nt5ance1 or ( !   
influ5ce ( a few musical notes1 ev5     
?\gh "o kn[s ! me*anism1 s x seems      
difficult to grant t  !re 0 once a *oice
 9 ! o!r m9d t caus$ x1 t !re  7 once _m
 pa?s op5$ be=e x4    ,& /ill m d ,i    
believe t ! accid5t ( ! great tempe/ has
  giv5 a yet m pat5t & subtle mean+ to !
 entire figure4 ,once  ^u a "t its      
details1 inde$1 if n its entirety1 mu/ h
 look$  m delicate 9 ! reflect$ light ( 
! temple build+1 :5 !  upp] "p ( !      
figure 0 ba!d 9 my/]i\s gloomy light1   
:ile  ! l[] glitt]$ 9 answ] to ! op5+s (
 ! doors4 ,b c\ld  any?+ ev] h rival$ ! 
undecid$ness ( ?is backgr\nd (  veil$   
sky & %ift+ blue1 :i* makes "o believe  
at times t !  figure soon mu/ move8 ,z  
"o looks long] & long] at x1 )  ev]y?+  
ar\nd x g5tly *ang+1 & ! %ad[s %ift+ ^u 
its  surface1 ! t5sion ( expectation    

rises to anxiety4 ,! trees ru/le  & wave
 beh9d x1 & ! light dances up & d[n !   
gre5 b\ghs  ) ! w9d2 x mu/ move--b !re  
is no *ange1 & x %all sit  =ev]4    ,z  
we left1 & ,i walk$ d[n ! long pavem5t 9
 front ( ! /atue1  9 ! e>ly autumn      
sun%9e & ! ris+ fre%ness ( ! w9d1 ,i    
turn$ aga9 & aga91 ea* "t ) !           
realization t ! /atue  0 /ill sitt+1    
until we turn$ out ( sight1 a vague1    
unreasonable  s5se ( hav+ left x alone  
accompany+ me1 until o!r1 diff]5t1      
light1 & gay impressions broke !        
influ5ce & all[$ me to ?9k  ( :at ,i _h 
se5 z a "w ( art1 su* z ,i c\ld und]/& &
  decompose--&1 if ,i wi%$1 make also4  
,& we lun*$ at ,hase1 ne> by1 & f !     
com=table inn c\ld see  on ! gray hill  
above ! temple ( ,kuwannon1 & its r$    
build+s &  balu/rades4 ,aft] a v long   
lun*1 we walk$ up to ! temple1 &  f !   
plat=m 9 front look$ t[>d ! aft]noon sea
 "r be=e  u1 & ! pla9 ( ,kamakura4 ,!n  
we ent]$1 & 7 tak5 9 beh9d  ! great     
scre5 doors to a n>r[ b high            

place--light$ only f !  little          
entrance--:]e9 /ood "r by u & ov] u a   
/&+ figure  ( ! div9ity1 all gold5 9 !  
d>k4 ,x is ov] ?irty feet high1  & :e!r 
x be great art or n1--= ! d>kness 0 too 
great to  judge ( =m1--! glitt] ( a     
smile ( gold f> up above our heads1  9 !
 obscurity ( ! ro(1 0 an impression t1  
ev5 s ne> to  ! great /atue out ( doors1
 rema9s di/9ct4 ,x 0 late aft]noon2  we 
d>$ look at no m /atues1 nor at relics (
 w>riors ( ,kamakura1  & />t$ = ! bea*1 
p>tly ) ! hope ( see+ ,fuji beh9d  u4 ,b
 all 0 veil$ 9 ! sky2 we walk$ along !  
bea*1 our  kurumas dragg+ beh9d u1 &    
cross$ a little /ream1 & :ile  ,a----   
ba!d 91 & !reby took possession (1 !    
,pacific1 ,i walk$  up ! s&-hills t[>d !
 little village at ! end ( ! /r&4 ,z  ,i
 came ne> x1 an un=tunate di/ort$ be+1  
sc>r$ ) "s  lepr\s disease1 plung$ t[>d 
me 9 ! twilight f "s vague  op5+ 9 !    
hills1 & begg$ pite\sly1 foll[+ me      
aft]w>d )  a ?ankful wail ( ,o ,danna   
,san6 ,danna ,san6 ,danna ,san6 t ,i he>

 yet4  ,we rent]$ our kurumas & drove 9 
triumph to ! inn ( ! little  village4 ,i
 say 9 triumph3 ,i drove 9 triumph1     
obs]v$ ( all  obs]v]s--,i _h my usual   
co/ume & 0 clo!d4 ,a----1 r ?an  wait to
 get dry1 rode along ) only a p>tial    
cov]+ ( yukatta1  & attract$ no         
att5tion4 ,_h he _h no?+ on at all1 he  
w\ld h  be5 /ill m 9 keep+ ) _m ( our   
neighbors4 ,night 0  fall+1 no?+ m c\ld 
be done2 we got back to our c>riage &   
horses1 & drove back 9 ! w>m d>kness to 
,yokohama4 ,& ,i close z  we beg9 to    
feel ! roll1 la h\le du ,pacifique4     
#i ,! g5try1 ! old ,samurai1 h[ev]1 /ill
 con/itute !       gov]n+ class to-day  
app>5tly1 & ! ari/ocratic _s       /&s 9
 ! way ( indiscrim9ate rise ( !         
plebeians4          ,,kioto             
,septemb] #af4    ,we came into ,kioto f
 ,osaka1 by rail1 "o f9e aft]noon4 ,i _h
 a  half-*ildi% hope ( be+ surpris$1 a  
memory ( days :51 a boy1 ,i  read ( !   
great =bidd5 city4 ,only a few ye>s ago 
x 0 /ill  =bidd51 & n[ ! little         

respectable c> 0 hurry+ u !re z  prosily
 z old] life translates ! v]se ( our    
e>ly dreams4 ,we 7  9 ,septemb] heat &  
gl>e4 ,we pass$ ov] wide spaces ( pla91 
edg$  by %>p m\nta9s1 look+ hot & b>r52 
?r\gh great plantations  & /ret*es (    
gre51 ) "h & !re a temple half hidd51--&
  ov] dri$ riv]-b$s4    ,! /ation clos$ 
all views on our arrival1 & ! sudd5     
transf] to  /reets %[+ no ,european     
influ5ces 0 z if we _h pass$ ?r\gh a    
city's walls4    ,! fir/ s5sation 0     
m]ely ! usual "o ( a :irl ?r\gh         
innum]able build+s1 l[1 ( wood1 & m or  
less ! same2  extremely wide /reets1 all
 v clean2 _m p2 a great bridge  across !
 /ony b$ ( a riv] almo/ dry2 !n "s trees
 & little  g>d5s & corn]s ( temples )   
heavy ro(s1 z we turn$ ?r\gh  little    
roads & drove up to ! gate ( ! hotel    
inclosure1 :i* is  plac$ on ! edge ( !  
outside hills & looks d[n ^u ,kioto4 ,we
  7 high up1 9 rooms1 look+ ov] trees j 
bel[2 next to u !  corn] ( temple gr\nds
 t r\nd$ away out ( sight4              

,illu/ration3 ,,kioto ,,9               
,,fog--,,morn+4    ,e>ly on mo/ morn+s  
,i h sat out on our wide v]&a & drawn or
  pa9t$ f ! great panorama be=e me--!   
di/ant m\nta9s mak+  a great wall light$
 up cle>ly1 ) pat*es ( burn+ yell[ &    
:ite & gre51 aga9/ ! we/]n sky4 ,! city 
lies 9 fog1  sometimes cool & gray2     
sometimes gold5 & smoky4 ,! tops (      
pagodas  & heavy ro(s ( temples lift out
 ( ?is sea1 & ?r\gh x %9e  innum]able   
little :ite spots ( ! pla/]$ sides (    
h\ses4 ,great  av5ues1 :i* divide ! city
 9 p>allel l9es1 run (f into haze2 f>   
away always %9es ! :ite wall ( ! city   
ca/le2 ne> u1 trees &  h\ses & temples  
drop out occasionally f ! great violet  
%ad[s  ca/ by ! m\nta9 beh9d u4 ,be=e ! 
city wakes & ! air  cle>s1 ! cr[s fly f 
ne> ! temples t[>d u1 z ! great bell  ( 
! temple s\nds1 & we he> ! call ( !     
gongs & indef9ite  waves ( pray]4       
,occasionally a hawk re/s uneasily on ! 
?9 bran*es  bel[4 ,!n ! sun eats up !   
%ad[s1 & ! va/ view unites 9 a  great   

space ( pla9 beh9d ! monotony ( !       
repeat$ =ms ( !  small h\ses1 brok5 by !
 %\ld]s ( ! ro(s & pagodas ( _m         
temples4 ,b ne> u are _m trees &        
tea-h\ses & g>d5s1 & we  are z if 9 !   
c\ntry4    ,we h work$ consci5ti\sly z  
m]e sightse]s until all is confus$  z ) 
an indige/ion ( in=mation4 ,i c\ld h>dly
 tell y any?+  9 a reasonable sequ5ce1 =
 9 & out ( :at ,i g to see runs a       
p]petual w>p ( look+ at curios1 ( :i*   
occupation ,i feel e  day disgu/$ &     
a%am$1 & to :i* ,i return aga9 z a      
gambl]  might1 ) ! hope ( mak+ x all "r 
) my consci5ce by "s  run ( luck4 ,?is  
began on our v fir/ day1 :5 at our fir/ 
visit  to an excell5t m]*ant1 = :om we  
_h lett]s1 we sp5t ! h\rs  aft] d9n]    
look+ at ! bric--brac br\ght toge!r =   
our  pur*ase or amusem5t4 ,we _h _h !   
pres5tation & disappe>ance (  ! ladies (
 ! h\se aft] _! cu/om>y g5uflections2 & 
a  ,european d9n]1 wait$ ^u1 9 "p1 by   
less] cli5ts ( our  ent]ta9]4 ,mean:ile 
8 "o little girl sat beside him1 half   

beh9d  him1 & occasionally betray$ h]   
secret love = him by g5tly  press+ 8 leg
 ) ! sole ( h] little /ock+$ foot4      
,japanese  *ildr5 are "o ( ! *>ms (     
,japan1 & ?is "o is a type ( _!         
/illness2 h] sweet1 pati5t face wat*+ ! 
talk ( ! eld]s1 no  *ange 9 h] eyes     
reveal+ any?+1 b ! :ole p]son tak+      
ev]y?+ 9--! little delicate p]son1 :i*  
disappe>$ 9 a dress  & sa% n unlike h]  
eld]s'1 except = color4 ,!n !re 0 a     
visit to ano!r m]*ant1 9 ! olde/ h\se ( 
! city1 built l[1  s t none might       
p]*ance look d[n ^u ! sov]eign "l's     
procession4 ,display ( family           
relics--m>riage gifts & complete        
tr\sseaux ( ! pa/2 m>riage dresses ( !  
same "t1 symbolical  9 color1--:ite1 r$1
 & f9ally black4 ,we are told to notice 
t !  gold & silv] fitt+s ( preci\s      
lacqu]s are want+1 because _m  ye>s ago 
"s sumptu>y edict ( ! ,tokugawa gov]nm5t
 sudd5ly  =bade ! display or use ( !    
preci\s metals 9 excess--a gradation  to
 be det]m9$ by inspect+ (ficials--=     

p]sons :o1 l  m]*ants1 %\ld n pret5d to 
pass a c]ta9 l9e4    ,!n1 ow+ to o!r    
lett]s1 we h paid our devoirs to !      
gov]nor1  & call$1 & subsequ5tly receiv$
 ! polite att5tions ( 8  intellig5t     
secret>y4 ,"u 8 guidance we visit !     
,s*ool ( ,art &  see boys sket*+1 & ent]
 rooms ( draw+ devot$ respectively to  !
 s*ools ( ! ,nor? & ! ,s\?4    ,& we    
visit ! s*ool = girls1 :]e ! cook+-class
 is "o bloom  ( pea*-l complexions1 l a 
great fruit-basket2 :]e ! ladylike      
tea*] ( gymna/ics & *ild etiquette we>s 
divid$ skirts2 :]e  ! rooms = ! /udy (  
,*9ese classics & hi/ory conta9 a       
small] numb] ( fair /ud5ts1 look+ m     
reasonable & mu* pal]2  & :]e1 on admir+
 9 ! empty pa9t+-class a *>m+ sket* (   
,kioto :>ves1 l ! "w ( "s less] ,rico1  
,i am told t !  fair arti/ has          
disappe>$--m>ri$1 j z if x _h happ5$ ) u
  at home4 ,b ) a diff]5ce wor? weigh+  
gravely1 = our guide &  tea*] in=ms me t
 ! aim ( ?is education is n to make     
girls  indep5d5t1 b r to make m         

intellig5t & useful daught]s1  si/]s1 or
 wives4 ,& 9 ?is old-fa%ion$ view ,i    
come to recognize  ! edges ( a great    
tru?4    ,!n temples1 = ,kioto is a city
 ( temples2 & e day "s h\rs  ( hot morn+
 h be5 giv5 to visits1 all ( :i* make a 
great blur  9 my m9d4 ,! g5]al memory is
 impressive & gr&2 ! details run  "o    
into ! o!r4    ,?us we are pay+ de> =   
sightsee+1 b x is impossible to set     
aside ! vague curiosity :i* hates to    
leave ano!r *ance unturn$4  ,& :5 aga9  
%all ,i return1 & see all ^! aga98 ,n[1 
h[ev]1  all is associat$ ) heat & gl>e1 
& ) ! monotony (  innum]able repeat$    
impressions1 diff]+ only 9 scale4 ,/ill1
  probably1 :5 ,i %all h left ,i %all   
recall m cle>ly &  sep>ately ! great    
solemn masses ( unpa9t$ wood1 = :i* e>ly
  =e/s h be5 spoil$2 ! great size ( _!  
timb]s1 !  cont9u\s felicity ( _! _m    
ro(+s1 ! dre>y or delicate  solemnity ( 
_! d>k int]iors1 ! int]m9able recurr5ce 
(  pa9t+s by arti/s ( ! same s*ools2 !  
dry & arid c\rt-y>ds1  look$ at1 9 ?is  

heat ( wea!r1 f ! gold5 %ad[s1 :]e are  
hidd5 sometimes lovely old /atues1      
sometimes /upid repetitions2  images ( !
 :ole race ( e>li] %oguns2 ! h>%        
features ( !  great ,taiko ,sama1 !     
sleek & subtle face ( ! great ,iyyas1 or
 !  =m ( ,k'wan-on1 c>v$ by e>ly art1   
lean+ h] *eek on long  f+]s2 or noble1  
tape/ri$ figures1 ri* 9 color & int5sity
 (  spott+1 pa9t$ by ! ,buddhi/         
,*o-,d5-,su4444    ,i %\ld l to describe
 ! temple ceil+s1 9 :i* are set !       
lacqu]$ c(f]s ( ! w> junk ( ,taiko1 or (
 ! /ate c>riage (  8 wife4444    ,i h   
sket*$ 9 8 reception hall1 peopl$ to-day
 only by spect]s  ( ! pa/--) gilt &     
pa9t$ panels on :i* may h look$ !  great
 ,iyyas1 :o 0 to succe$ him1 & ! bless$ 
,xavi]1 & !  e>ly ,jesuits1 & ! *ivalric
 ,*ri/ian lords :o 7 to die on  great   
battlefields4 ,& close to a great room1 
:]e _m monks b5t  ov] peaceful books1 ! 
little closet1 ) da9ty %elves1 9 :i*    
,taiko look$ at ! heads ( 8 dead        
enemies1 br\ght !re =  inspection4    ,&

 we h gone up into ! pla9 little        
pavilion1 sacr$ to !  c]emonies (       
tea-dr9k+1 :]e ! r\gh & %rewd adv5tur]  
(f]$ to grim1 ambiti\s w>riors1 z       
honorific gu]don = h>d  s]vice1 ! simple
 little cups ( glaz$ clay t collectors  
prize  to-day4    ,i run ov] ^!         
associat$ details1 because c]ta9ly ! "q 
(  ! great build+s is too weighty = my  
pres5t mood4 ,b ! great]  "p ( ! romance
 ( ,japan is call$ up at e mom5t by :at 
we see  j n[4    ,at ,uji1 among ! tea  
g>d5s1 we /opp$ on our way to ,n>a1 !   
old]  capital1 to see ! temple (        
,bio-d-9 & its ,phnix hall1 built  9    
wood1 t is n[ ov] eight hundr$ ye>s old2
 its /atues2 its  half-defac$ pa9t+s ( !
 ,p>adise 9 ! ,we/2 its high1 du/y      
ceil+1 inlaid ) "m-(-pe>l2 & its        
sweet-ton$ bell4    ,& we saw ! leg5d>y 
b[ ( ,yorimasa1 :i* y w recall ) me     
:5ev] y see a picture ( ! b[ ( ! moon1  
across :i* flies  ! ,japanese cuckoo4 ,x
 0 "h t he def5d$ ,uji bridge1 ) a      
=lorn hope1 aga9/ ! army ( ! ,taira1 t 8

 pr9ce might h  "t to escape2 & "h1 at  
,bio-d-91 :ile 8 la/ foll[]s kept  (f ! 
ru% ( ! enemy1 ,yorimasa ran himself    
?r\gh ) 8 sword1  z a f9al duty paid to 
! honor ( ,japan4    ,on ?is side ( !   
bridge1 z ,i walk$ up o!r temple /eps1  
h$g$ 9  by trees1 ) our fri5d ,oye-,san1
 ! violet butt]flies & blue             
dragon-flies cross$ our pa? 9 e b> (    
sun%9e4    ,at ! mona/]y ( ,kurodani1 on
 ! edge ( ! m\nta9 ne> u1 are  %[n !    
graves ( ,nawozane & ( ! "y ,atsumori1  
:om he kill$  9 battle4 ,we are %[n !   
portrait ( ! victim1 pa9t$ 9 sorr[ by  !
 victor1 & ! p9e-tree /ill /&s ^u :i* ! 
w>rior hung  8 armor :51 torm5t$ by     
remorse1 he c>ri$ out 8 v[ ( nev]  m    
be>+ arms1 & s\ght ?is place to ent]    
religion & pray =  ! s\l ( ! y\? he _h  
unwill+ly sla94 ,/range fl[] ( human    
pity1 bloom+ out ( ! blood ( civil w>s l
 "s /ory ( ,italy  9 ! coeval day ( ,/4 
,francis4    ,at t "t ! great w> ( !    
,g5ji & ! ,heike 0 deva/at+  ,japan1 & 9
 #aahd1 9 a great battle by ! sea1      

,yo%itsune1 ! h]o  ( romance ( ,japan1  
s]v+ 8 bro!r ,yoritomo1 ^: /ory ,i told 
y at ,nikko1 defeat$ ! ,heike1 & ! dea? 
( ,atsumori took  place4 ,?is delicate  
boy1 a pr9ce ( ! ,heike1 sc>cely sixte5 
ye>s  old1 met 9 ! battle ! vet]an      
,nawozane4 ,atsumori _h f\ght bravely   
on ! %ore1 hav+ at fir/ fl$1 & !n       
return$1 =c+ 8 horse  ?r\gh ! wat]4 ,!  
great] /r5g? ( ! old] man prevail$1 &  !
 *ild fell "u ! bl[s ( ! p[]ful         
man-at-arms4 ,:5  ,nawozane dis5gag$ 8  
enemy's helmet1 int5d+ to take (f !     
usual  trophy ( a head1 ! sight ( !     
y\?ful face recall$ 8 own son  sla9 9   
battle1 & he hesitat$ 9 inflict+ on o!r 
p>5ts a  suff]+ l 8 own4 ,b if he did n 
kill him o!rs w\ld1 & 8  reputation w\ld
 be endang]$4 ,he kill$ him1 ,atsumori  
bravely meet+  dea?1 & bore (f ! t]rible
 trophy4 ,!n1 9 ! revulsion (  remorse1 
he v[$ himself to a religi\s life2 he   
re/or$ to ,atsumori's  fa!r ! son's fair
 head & 8 armor1 &1 go+ to ,kioto1      
became a  disciple 9 religion ( ! holy  

,hn5 ,%n91 ! f\nd] ( ,kurodani2  & !re1 
ne> its lovely g>d51 are ! tombs ( ! man
 & ( !  boy4    ,or1 :ile we are ?9k+ ( 
heads cut (f1 ,i pass aga9 & aga9 a     
l(ty monum5t1 "u great trees1 on a wide 
av5ue beautifully  macadamiz$1 & kept 9 
! trim ( our ,c5tral ,p>k1 along :i*    
ride  (fic]s 9 ,we/]n uni=m1 or pass !  
police1 9 a dress ^: type  is borr[$ f  
at lea/ ?ree ,european /ates4 ,"u ?is   
tomb are  buri$ ! e>s & noses ( !       
,koreans sla9 9 ! w>s t  ,hideyo%i wag$ 
at ! end ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,!y 7 c>ri$
  "h z m conv5i5t ?an ! heads1 ! usual  
evid5ce ( "w well  done1 br\ght by !    
w>riors to _! comm&]4 ,! memory ( :at ! 
great pile means s]ves to confuse /ill m
 my admiration ( !  ultra-mod]n success 
( ! wide c>riage drive on :i* x /&s4    
,,osaka1 ,septemb] #ah4    ,we h come to
 ,osaka to sp5d an entire day 9         
bric--brac3 to arrive  e>ly at ! big    
%op2 to h tea (f]$ u 9 ! little back    
room (  ! m]*ant1 :i* looks out & /eps  
out ^u 8 g>d5 ( a few  trees & little   

pebbly walks & "s /one lant]ns--a g>d5 t
 is  = u1 :i* 8 own may or may n be4 ,!n
 cig>s1 & pieces (  porcela9 br\ght f ! 
/oreh\ses2 !n m tea1 & an inspection  ( 
! _m rooms full ( odds & ends4 ,!n m    
tea1 & m pieces  sl[ly & reluctantly    
drawn f ! /oreh\se1 z if we c\ld n be  s
 unreasonable2 !n lun* & tea1 always 9 !
 h\se2 !n  adj\rnm5t to ! upp] rooms1 :5
 ! hundr$s ( kakemonos are  unroll$1 "o 
aft] ! o!r1 to a cresc5do ( exasp]ation4
 ,!n  r$iscussion ( matt]s bel[-/airs & 
visits to o!r rooms full (  w>es n spok5
 ( be=e2 !n m tea1 & ! la/ pieces       
grudg+ly produc$ f ! same occult        
/oreh\ses2 pur*ases amid  f9al          
bewild]m5t2 tea aga91 & dep>ture4    ,we
 _h come to ,osaka on our way back f    
,n>a1 & we aga9 return to  ,kioto1 :i*  
we left ?ree days ago4 ,! trip to ,n>a 0
 fatigu+ &  delightful1 & ,i %\ld l to  
recall x = y1 b ,i h no "t  & h made no 
notes2 &1 besides1 my memories are aga9 
beg9n+ to  m]ge "o into ano!r1 & !y     
!mselves to bl5d ) :at ,i see 9  ,kioto4

 ,b c]ta9ly some?+ floats ov]1 :i* a few
 l9es c give4    ,we 7 out 9 our kurumas
 e>ly 9 ! morn+1 ea* ) ?ree  runn]s4 ,we
 f\nd ,oye-,san wait+ = u pati5tly1     
outside at ,in>i1  :]e he _h expect$ u f
 ! e>lie/ morn+4 ,x is f him t  ,i get !
 little clay fox1 giv5 me = good luck1 9
 a p>tn]%ip )  ! "o he reta9$4 ,i ne$ n 
speak ( ! heat4 ,! roads 7 du/y  & dry  
:]e !y 7 n muddy & wet1 9 ! c\ntry pa?s 
we took4  ,we pass$ ! edge ( ! city1 :i*
 ends sudd5ly 9 rice fields1  occupy+   
:at 7 once /reets & h\ses4 ,= ,kioto is 
only a "p (  :at x has be52 & ev5 :5 x 0
 l>g]1 n s _m ye>s back1  x mu/ /ill h  
be5 only ! rema9d] ( a great] pa/4    ,z
 we get into :at is really ! c\ntry1    
pass+ f broad road to  n>r[ tracks1 our 
runn]s sometimes lift$ u ov] s(t1 wet   
places1 or  bump$ u ov] n>r[ dit*es1 or 
guid$ u1 at full tilt1 on ! edges  ( !  
/ones t are bridges4 ,sometimes m       
pati5tly we halt$ to  all[ ! files (    
black bulls to me&] pa/ u1 dragg+ loads 
on  :eels or c>ry+ bales4               

,illu/ration3 ,,peasant                 
,,woman--,,?re%]4    ,r>ely we met      
peasants1 & !n usually wom51 sometimes )
 horses  ( a l>g] bre$ ?an t we saw la/ 
mon? 9 ! ea/4 ,once1 among  rice fields 
9 ! bas9 ( a circle ( l[ hills1 ,i saw !
 grove :i*  cov]s ! tomb ( "s div9e     
emp]or ( e>ly times4 ,z we circl$  ar\nd
 ! slope1 f> away f ?is solit>y oasis ( 
trees1 we c\ld  see ! grove on e side1  
f9i%$ & complete & r\nd$ by "t1  z if   
sculptur$ 9 nature f "s ( ^? sket*es t  
,japanese  arti/s make = c>v+ :5 !y give
 all f\r sides1 & ! bottom1  & ! top1 on
 a s+le page4 ,no?+ else1 b p]haps "s   
un9scrib$ /one1 m>ks ! tomb ( emp]ors1  
dott$ ab\t ! pla9s  ( ?is olde/ prov9ce 
( ,japan4 ,/range en\gh1 ev5 9 ?is      
/range  c\ntry1 is ?is evid5ce ( !      
extreme ( simplicity 9 dea?1 z 9  life1 
( ! olde/ l9e ( ,ori5tal despots1       
absolute lords &  ma/]s1 ev]-pres5t     
patt]ns ( ! deity1 :o make ?is "o       
solit>y  exception ( simplicity 9       
hi/ory4 ,x is z if ,japan itself 0 _!   

tomb1 z if !y pass$ back into ! nature (
 :i* _! div9e  ance/ors 7 gods--! gods (
 ! sun & ( ! e>?4    ,blue hills &      
pagodas1 & temples 9 ! di/ance1 & we    
came into  ,n>a1 :i* is b a brea?1 a    
ru91 a remnant ( :at x 04 ,i _h  be5    
told s (t5 ( ! place1 z a ru9 among rice
 fields1 t ,i 0  unprep>$ = ! beautiful 
lay-out ( :at rema9s--= !  well-plann$  
roads & av5ues1 su* z may well h belong$
 to "s  great capital1 su* z w\ld h be5 
he>d ( by travel]s :o1  return+ 9 days (
 ,*>lemagne f o!r ,ea/]n cities to      
,byzantium1  might h talk$ ( ,zipango4  
,no?+ rema9s b a few build+s1 belong+ to
 temples1 b _!  approa*es are spl5did1  
ev5 ?\gh !re be (t5 no?+ m ?an  ! g5]al 
grad+ & disposition4 ,i %\ld h writt5 to
 y f  our inn1 :]e ,i look$1 9 ! ev5+ & 
morn+1 t[>d ! slopes  ( di/ant hills1 & 
he>d1 out ( ! d>kness1 ! s\nd ( ! great 
bell :i* rang fir/ "s elev5 c5turies    
ago1 & ! s++ ( !  frogs 9 ! fields :i* 7
 once a city4 ,x is n[ too late to beg9 
to describe any?+ ( :at ,i saw2 any?+ ( 

temple build+s1 f  "o ( :i* to ano!r we 
w&]$1 or ( ! old /atues & relics1  or ( 
! religi\s dances ( "y girls :i* we     
look$ at1 /&+  or sitt+ ne> ! balu/rade 
( ! danc+-%$1 :ile inside1 9 !  great]  
%ade1 !y mov$ to ! music & hymns ( !    
prie/s--r$ &  :ite figures1 ) long      
tresses ( black hair & *aplets ( fl[]s2 
) faces all pa9t$ :ite1 & brilliant1    
indiff]5t eyes t saw  me sket*+ cle>ly1 
h[ev]1 & h&s t wav$1 9 a cad5ce (       
r\t9e1 fans & bun*es ( little bells )   
long /ream]s ( violet1  blue1 gre51 r$1 
& :ite4 ,or ( ! great p>k-l av5ue1 t    
made  me ?9k ( ,engl&1 ?r\gh :i* /ill   
w&] tame de]1 z did ^?  t1 long ago1    
s]v$ z models = ,okio ! pa9t]4 ,i fe> t 
:at  ,i h se5 w rema9 only z an         
embroid]y ^u ! /uff t my  memory tries  
to unroll4    ,x 0 late on a swelt]+    
aft]noon :5 we manag$ to leave ,n>a1 &  
we rea*$ ,horiuji = too %ort a visit2 = 
we 7 due 9 ,osaka !  next day4 ,we w&]$ 
9 ! late aft]noon & ev5+ ?r\gh its      
c\rts1 k9dly receiv$ by ! prie/s1 = :om 

we _h !  recomm5dation ( a fri5dly "n4  
,at lea/ ,i _h "t to see ! ,gold5 ,hall1
 "o ( ! e>lie/  build+s1 n[ m ?an twelve
 c5turies & a half old1 & ! noble       
pa9t+s on its walls attribut$ to "s     
fam\s sculptor ( t day4  ,_! placid     
elegance1 ! ref9em5t ( _! l9es1 _! brea?
 (  religi\s peace1 expla9$ ^? claims to
 a solemn & glori\s pa/  = ,japan1 :i*  
look l a conv5tional exagg]ation 9 a    
to-day t  is delicate & small & dry4    
,! recall ( ,greek p]fection 0 n =c$1 & 
:ile /ill vaguely  unwill+ to confuse "o
 excell5ce by ref]r+ to ano!r1 ,i c\ld n
  help aga9 ?9k+ ( ! ,greek & ( ,tanagra
 images1 :5 ,i saw1 by  ! light ( !     
tor*es1 9 ! great pagoda1 z old z !     
great hall1  gr\ps model$ 9 clay by !   
same old sculptor1 ^: "n is giv5 to  !  
pa9t+s--,amida1 & ,kuwan-on1 & ,monju1 &
 ! sc5es ( !  dea? ( ,buddha4 ,an       
admirable antiquity 0 to be ! cont9u\s  
impression ( ! ev5+1 c>ri$ out into our 
la/ looks at !  ,treasure ,h\se4 ,its v 
air ( an old ,new ,engl& b>n or crib    

rais$  ^u po/s1 its r\gh r$ pa9t+1 !    
high wood5 /eps ( entrance1  ! gigantic 
wood5 lat*-key ) :i* ! gu>dian prie/    
fumbl$ at  its door1 gave ! note (      
extreme e>ly simplicity--! feel+ ( a    
p]si/+ indiff]5ce to ! adornm5ts &      
*anges ( c5turies (  fa%ions4    ,x has 
be5 useless all along to detail any?+1 b
 ! impressions (  ! la/ ?+s se5 rema9 ) 
me z types ( all4 ,= !re hung on  ! old 
walls ( ! ,treasure ,h\se a fram$ bann]1
 once c>ri$ 9  anci5t battles1 its      
brocad$ patt]n exactly l t :i* we "k 9  
,babylonian art3 ! circles ) ! lilies   
betwe51 & 9 ea* circle  ! ,assyrian     
mon>* /ruggl+ ) lions--imitation or     
orig9al (  coeval ,sassanian ,p]sia1 ,i 
suppose1 b h\s$ "h all ^! ?\s&  ye>s1 & 
9 its p]si/5ce ( patt]n connect+ ) t    
heavy &  oppressive antiquity ( ,n9eveh 
:i* kn[s no?+ old] ?an itself  = our    
/ory1 except olde/ ,egypt4           99 
99       99       99       99    ,b ,i 0
 yet to f9d some?+ old t w\ld be        
directly meant =  me1--a pa9t+ by !     

leg5d>y pa9t] ( ,japan1 ! ,cimabue ( a  
?\s& ye>s ago1 inh]itor or /ud5t ( /ill 
old] ,*9ese  art--,kose-no-,kanaoka4    
,! pa9t+ is /ill 9 fair condition1 ?\gh 
injuries ( "t reveal1  z usual1 ! me?ods
 us$ by ! pa9t]4 ,& x 0 a delight 9 me1 
9 ?is mood ( v5]ation = pa/ greatness1  
to recognize 9 !  veil+s & sequ5ces (   
?is pa9t+ ( ! lotus me?ods ,i _h us$    
myself1 work+ at su* di/ance ( "t &     
place1 :5 ,i _h tri$ to  r5d] ! tones & 
! transp>5cy ( our fairy wat]-lily2 & ,i
  "k y w =give ! sup]/iti\s s5se (      
approval ( my  re-inv5tions f ?is       
indef9ite pa/ ( art4    ,we w&]$ among !
 build+s until night _h set 92 we sign$ 
on !  regi/] ( visitors1 & contribut$ a 
small sum to ! repairs (  ^! decay+     
relics ( ! greatness ( ,japan2 we       
receiv$ "s little  gifts ( impressions &
 pr9ts 9 ackn[l$gm5t1 & !n re/$ 9  !    
neighbor+ inn1 wait$ ^u by fat1         
good-natur$ tea-girls1 mo/  c]ta9ly     
belong+ to to-day4    ,we _h n[ to take 
a long night ride1 & at l5g? we ru%$ out

 into  ! moonlight1 our f\rte5 runn]s   
appe>+ & disappe>+ z we  came 9 & out ( 
! %ad[s 9 ! long procession ( our tra94 
,we :irl$ pa/ ! h\ses ( ! small t[n1    
indiscreetly close to !  pap] scre5s1   
light$ f )91 aga9/ :i* 7 pr(il$ !  %ad[s
 ( faces1 sometimes ) pipes or cups     
lift$ to _! lips or  ! outl9es (        
coiffures pil$ up on ! head--all        
pictures m  ,japanese ?an _! v orig9als2
 !n betwe5 r\nd$ hills on :i*  /ood     
masses ( maple-trees2 !n ne> to empty   
spaces ( wat]2 !n  sank into d>k holl[s1
 at ! bottom ( :i* riv]s ran z fa/ !    
o!r way4    ,i wat*$ & look$ z long z   
fatigue all[$1 b fell asleep 9 !        
uncom=table kuruma1 wak$ e n[ & !n by "s
 sudd5 jolt to my  ext5d$ arm & head4   
,occasionally ,i _h dreamy glances at   
:at ,i rememb] z a va/ pla91  ) l(ty1   
colorless m\nta9s at "o side1 & p]haps  
,i saw glimpses  ( ! sea4 ,! night air 0
 cool 9 ! holl[s aft] ! swelt]+  day1 & 
,i f\nd my arm & face damp ) ! dew4 ,a  
,japanese poet  w\ld h said t x 0 b !   

spray f (f ! o>s ( "s  heav5ly boat :i* 
sail$ t night across ! />ry /ream ( !   
,milky ,way4    ,9 ! dawn we saw ! :ite 
walls ( ! ca/le ( ! city ( ,osaka1  &   
ran across its _m bridges1 all sil5t 9 !
 morn+4                                 
,septemb] #ai4    ,we sp5t ! late       
aft]noon & e>ly ev5+ 9 ! /ate ap>tm5ts (
  ! temple ( ! ,gre5 ,lotus1 :]e we     
look$ at /range dances &  li/5$ to      
curi\s music4    ,all 0 sacr$ & my/ic1  
accord+ to traditions transmitt$ orally 
f e>ly ages1 & all ! m liable to        
disappe> z ! h]$ity  ( occupation :i*   
has be5 ! m>k ( ,japan is m & m         
endang]$ by mod]n views & mod]n op5+s4  
,:5 we _h w&]$ ?r\gh ^? %ady ap>tm5ts 9 
! long1 l[  build+s ( ! temple g>d5s1 & 
_h se5 ! pa9t+s ( _!  scre5 walls1 & !  
c>v+s ( _! transoms1 we sat d[n 9 "o (  
! l>ge/ rooms1 ! wall scre5 0 remov$ :i*
 divid$ u f  ano!r1 & we _h !n a        
ready-made /age be=e u4 ,light came 9  f
 ! op5 v]&a1 n[ /ripp$ ( all scre5s1    
aga9/ ^:  plat=m _m unbidd51 un(ficial  

gue/s1 acqua9tances (  acqua9tances1 & p
 ab\t ! temple1 lean$ 9 a mass ( heads  
& arms & bu/s4 ,outside ! light 0 filt]$
 gre5 & orange  ?r\gh ! trees1 & caught 
! edges ( all =ms 9 ! %ade  )94 ,!      
or*e/ra ( flutes & drums occupi$ a      
little recess1 f  beh9d :i* ! danc]s    
appe>$ 9 turn4 ,beh9d ! musicians1 a    
great  violet curta91 ) ?ree temple     
cre/s 9 :ite1 made a twilight  backgr\nd
 = _! :ite & blue dresses1 gild$ by !   
lights 9 !  tall c&le/icks on ! floors  
be=e !m4 ,) ! s\nd ( !  in/rum5ts two   
boys came ar\nd ! corn] ( ! scre51 &1   
salut+1 /epp$ (f 9 %ort1 zigzag         
movem5ts1 evid5tly le>n$ by  rote1 & :i*
 _h a c]ta9 /range elegance4 ,!y 7 p]=m+
 !  butt]fly dance1 & made out v        
di/9ctly ! crisscross flight (  !       
insects4 ,:5 !y light$ or pois$ be=e    
light+ _! feet  /ruck ! gr\nd & !y sway$
 )\t /epp+ away4 ,!y wore  butt]fly w+s1
 & wide sleeves melt+ into !m1 & _!     
silv]  diadems1 fill$ up ) twigs ( fl[]+
 plants1 made out a fa9t  fr+e ( ant5n4 

,!y wore ! ugly anci5t tr\s]s ( yell[   
silk1  & long tra9s ( embroid]$ gre5    
sat9 trail$ on ! mats beh9d  !m4 ,broad 
b&s ( blue & :ite across ! *e/1 & a :ite
 belt1  recall$ ! insect orig9al1 & blue
 & :ite w+s droop$ ov]  _! wide gre5    
sat9 g>m5ts4 ,ea* c>ri$ a fl[]+ bran* 9 
8  h&4 ,x 0 all m /range ?an beautiful1 
) a my/]i\s  impression ( remote        
antiquity1 z if inv5t$ = "s prehi/oric  
,polynesian wor%ip4 ,9 "s ( ! next      
dances1 ^: names ,i d n  rememb]1 & :i* 
7 c>ri$ out by m51 ! flat mask1 ) a wide
  triangle = eyes & ano!r = ! m\?1 made 
out j ?is  similitude4 ,9 ano!r dance   
two m5 glid$ ab\t ! room1 li/5+  & f9d+ 
_! way2 !n w>riors 9 antique ,*9ese     
co/ume1 )  great helmets & halb]ds1 &   
coats ( mail1 & long tra9s1 appe>$  s+ly
 & by twos1 & m>*$ & c\nt]-m>*$2 &      
f9ally1  /&+ by _! lances1 laid at _!   
feet1 drew & held up _!  swords1 :ile   
ea* o!r peaceful h& 0 ext5d$ 9 ! ge/ure 
t  we "k z ! pontifical bless+2 & ?is   
end$ ! dance ( ,great  ,peace1 probably 

"s relic ( e>ly triumphant ,*9ese       
dyna/ies4    ,x 0 n[ ev5+3 ! blue light 
( ! op5 v]&a made l>ge squ>e  op5+s 9 ! 
gold5 room4 ,outside1 aga9/ ! balu/rade1
 press$  d>k =ms1 ) faces r$d5$ by !    
light inside--! outside  look]s-on4     
,inside1 ! gold walls & ! gild$ ceil+1 !
 great  gold temple drum1 ! yell[ mats1 
& ! :ite dresses ( !  musicians1 made a 
s(t bloom l ! holl[ ( a lotus1 :5 ! la/ 
p]=m]1 9 rose-r$ & crimson1 glid$ into !
 room1 sw++ f  side to side1 & br&i%+ a 
gild$ scept]4 ,unc\? ge/ures &  enorm\s 
/rides1 ) no mean+ t ,i c\ld make out1 a
 frightful  mask t hung f> away f !     
face1 ) loose jaw & project+  mane & a  
long r$1 po9t$ hood1 made an impression 
z b>b>\s1 z  mean+less1 z spl5did1 & z  
annoy+ z :at we might feel be=e  ! pa9t$
 & gild$ idol ( "s little kn[n & cruel  
cre$4 ,?is  0 ! dance ( ,ra ,dragon ,k+1
 & clos$ ! ent]ta9m5t4    ,we ex*ang$ "s
 words ) ! late p]=m]s 9 _!             
insignificant  ev]yday clo!s1 & rode    
home 9 ! twilight ?r\gh ! little  roads1

 :]e ,kioto g5tlem5 7 ru%+ _! horses up 
& d[n1  wrapp$ 9 wide rid+ tr\s]s1 :i*  
flutt]$ along ! horses'  flanks4444     
99       99       99       99       99  
,we h also giv5 a soire1--t is to say1 a
 supp]1 ) !  prop] trimm+s ( musical    
ent]ta9m5t & danc+1 & 7 probably  ! mo/ 
amus$ ( all ! p !re4 ,! amusem5t        
consi/$1 9  great measure1 ( our n kn[+ 
j :at we 7 go+ to h1 =  o!rwise !       
details 7 simple to monotony4 ,we _h "o 
( ! upp]  floors ( a fa%ionable inn4 ,x 
0 v hot1 & we 7 glad to f9d  t we %\ld  
be at supp] 9 our loose/ ba? robes4 ,!re
 0 no?+  unusual--?\gh ev]y?+ is novel  
to u--b ! extreme smallness (  ! _m     
gei-%as1 :o sat betwe5 u at ! end ( !   
d9n]1 pass$  ! sak1 said witty ?+s1 (   
:i* we und]/ood n "o ^w1 gave  u mu*    
music on ! samis5 7! ?ree-/r+$ guit>7 & 
on !  flute1 & sang1 & gave u dances4 ,b
 !y 7 absolutely incr$ible  9 ! way (   
littl5ess4 ,x did n seem possible t !re 
7 real  bones inside _! n>r[ little     
wri/s & dolls' f+]s4 ,:at !re  0 9 mo/ (

 _! little heads ,i don't "k1 b ,i c\ld 
h  imag9$ sawdu/4 ,= ! doll illusion1 = 
! pa9t$ face & neck  & lips1 all done ^u
 ! same patt]n f pure conv5tionality 7n 
at all l our sugge/ive pa9t+71 & ! sudd5
 /opp+ %>ply at  a l9e on ! little sl5d]
 neck1 gave me ! feel+ ( _! hav+        
artificial heads4 ,! g5tle little bodies
 disappe>$ entirely inside  ( ! folds ( 
! dress & ! enorm\s b[s ( ! sa%4 ,& :5  
! tall y\ng/]s1 ,am]icans1 :om we _h    
invit$1 began to romp )  ! play?+s1 late
 9 ! ev5+1 ,i felt anxi\s ab\t possible 
breakage1 su* z ,i rememb]1 9 nurs]y    
days1 :5 we boys laid hold (  our si/]s'
 dolls4      ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,pilgrim4
    ,b ?is artificial impression        
disappe>s z ) all novelty 9 p1  & :5 "o 
( ! y\nge/ ( ^! *ild-wom51 at "s mom5t 9
 !  ev5+1 remov$ ! mask ( ! jolly fat   
woman 7t y "k by !  pr9ts71 beh9d :i* %e
 _h be5 s++1 ! little sad face told its 
contradictory /ory z t\*+ly z ) any ( h]
 ,aryan si/]s4 ,&  late 9 ! ev5+1 :5 !  
fun1 ,i suppose1 0 upro>i\s1 we w5t to  

! extreme ( writ+ & pa9t+ on fans1 & "o 
( our m]*ant  gue/s wa/$ ,india-ink 9   
mock tattoo+ ( 8 b>$ arm & %\ld]4       
,septemb] #ba4    ,we leave to-morr[    
morn+4    ,?is has be5 ,sunday1 our la/ 
day 9 ,kioto4 ,i h be5 trundl$ all  day 
9 a fe>ful ra91 to see la/ sights1 to   
look up %ops = ! la/  "t4 ,my runn]s h  
tak5 me to ?is or t place1 ne> ! great  
temples1 :]e ,i hope f9ally to decide ^u
 "s little ,buddha or  ,amida1 :i* h    
tempt$ me among o!r sculptures1 & ,i h  
dalli$  9 ! o!r %ops t supply ! small   
?+s t adh]e to wor%ip1  & f9ally ,i h   
made a long visit to ! good lady :o has 
sold me  pott]y1 & :o once %ock$ my     
,we/]n prud]y by dilat+ ^u !  m]its (   
unm5tionable designs & indescribable    
bric--brac4    ,at l5g? ,i return 9 !   
gray noon1 giv+ a la/ look at ea* %op  t
 ,i "k2 at ! long facade ( ! ,inn (     
,great ,weal?1 at !  signs & ! flags ( !
 !at]2 at ! little gei-%as trott+  ab\t 
9 c\ples1 :om ,i recognize 7= h[ c ,i   
tell !m f ^?  :om ,i "k872 at ! qua9t1  

amus+ little *ildr51 always a fre%      
delight2 at ! little pavilion ne> u1 :]e
 ! ar*]s %oot2 at !  places :]e horses  
/& "u ! trees to be ridd5 by amateurs2  
at  ! small tea g>d5's pretty gates2 at 
! lattic$ w9d[s :i* op5  9 ! dusk2 & !n1
 ) _! coats /ick+ to _! backs1 &  wet1  
/a9$ legs1 my runn]s leave me at ! gate 
( ! hotel2 f9al  settlem5t ( pur*ases 9 
boxes1 pack+1 & receiv+ visits (        
dep>ture4    ,9 ! late aft]noon we g to 
! temples on ! edge ( ! hill ne>  u 7!  
temples ( ,kiyomidzu7 ) two ( our good  
fri5ds & _!  *ildr54 ,our runn]s insi/  
^u dragg+ & bump+ u up _m /eps1  &      
f9ally escort u1 almo/ to ! temple      
itself1 9 a procession (  d\ble file1   
:i*1 l a long tail1 halts :5 we /op1 &  
aga9  waggles aft] u 9 unc]ta9ty :5 we  
set (f anew4 ,we walk along !  asc5d+   
/reet & /op to b>ga9 at ! innum]able    
little %ops1  full ( little odds & ends1
 half play?+s & half religi\s emblems   
or images1 :i* are sold c]ta9ly to !    
pleasure ( ! _m *ildr5  :o ?rong !      

place4 ,& ,i1 too1 feel pleas$ at hav+  
*ildr5 )  u1 & at hav+ occasionally !   
timid little f+]s ( ,miss ,kimi 9  m9e4 
,9 h] o!r small h& %e holds a fan t ,i  
pa9t$ ye/]day  = h] fa!r1 & ,i wond]    
occasionally :e!r %e wi%es me to  notice
 h] possession4 ,i surmise t ! =eign    
g5tleman gives h]  sometimes a little   
d\btful fe>1 z ,i cat* h] eyes look+ up 
cauti\sly f bel[ h] bangs4 ,we talk1    
exactly ( :at x w\ld be  h>d to say1 =  
!re is n ) u en\gh ( any "o language to 
g  r\nd1 & our int]pret] has be5 left   
out2 b we feel di/9ctly  t we und]/& ea*
 o!r1 & our old] companions expla9 q a  
numb] ( ?+s 9 ?is p>tn]%ip ( a few      
words4    ,we asc5d ! high /eps on "o   
side ( ! t[] & pass ) !  ,sunday cr[d   
?r\gh ! great hall1 l a corridor1 along 
:i* are  seat$ on alt> /eps gold5 images
 ( gods1 9 a %ad[ du/$ by !  long beams 
( ! aft]noon sun1 t p\r across x f "o   
op5 side4  ,?r\gh ?is veil ( danc+ motes
 we see ! /atues & ! great  gild$       
lotuses & c&elabra1 & ! =ms ( att5dant  

prie/s1 &  ! cr[d t passes1 & t /ops = a
 mom5t 9 pray]4 ,! words  t !y repeat   
come into cad5ce ) ! %uffl+ ( _! feet1 &
  ! creak+ ( ! planks ( ! floor+1 & !   
s\nds ( !  dropp+ ( (f]+s4    ,! cr[d is
 quiet1 ord]ly1 b amus$ at be+ out4 ,!  
wom5 smile  out ( _! slant+ eyes & walk 
lean+ =w>ds1 & _! black  hair %9es l    
lacqu]1 & ! artificial fl[]s 9 ! great  
folds  ( ! coiffure dance 9 ! sunlight4 
,!y are quietly dress$1 all b  ! "y     
girls1 :o we> bright colors & blue sat9 
sa%es4 ,! m5  slide ab\t1 also 9 quiet  
silk or cotton4 ,a l>ge "p ( !m are     
dress$ 9 e %ade ( blue2 occasionally !  
b>e leg comes out1 b  all we> holiday   
dress1 except our runn]s or _! fell[s1  
:o keep  _! workday looks4 ,& !         
*ildr5--!y are all ev]y:]e1 & all  at   
home2 !y are all dress$ up1 ) full1     
_m-color$ skirts1 &  %[y sa%es1 & e     
little head ) "s new & unexpla9able spot
  ( tonsure4    ,_m ( ! cr[d turn ar\nd 
! build+1 or its v]&a1 t\*+ !  columns )
 _! h&s & foll[+ tracks1 worn deep l    

ruts1 9  ! plank+ ( enorm\s ?ickness4   
,oye-,san po9ts ?is out to me1 &        
indicates its religi\s int5tion4 ,bo? he
 & our o!r companion clap  _! h&s & pray
 = a mom5t4 ,a wave ( s]i\sness &       
ab/raction  passes ov] _! faces2 !n aga9
 all is z be=e1 & we /ep out  ^u ! wide 
balcony1 :i*1 built ^u gigantic piles1  
hangs ov] a  deep holl[ fill$ ) trees & 
build+s1 all 9 ! %ad[ n[4 ,f  bel[ rise1
 ) ! coolness ( ! gre5 trees & grass1 ! 
s\nds  ( dropp+ wat]s4 ,9 "t we desc5d !
 pa? & ! /eps1 & dr9k  f "o ( ! /reams  
:i* fall f gigantic g>goyles1 out ( a   
great mass ( wall4           99       99
       99       99       99    ,b x is  
late3 we look aga9 ^u ,kioto f ! temple 
above1 all  swimm+ 9 light & haze1 &    
walk back to our kurumas1 a f9al        
good-by to ! *ildr51 b we %all see _!   
p>5ts aga92 & !n  we return1 & look f   
our v]&a = ! la/ "t at ! city  /ret*$   
out 9 ! ev5+1 lo/ almo/ entirely 9 !    
twilight ( a  great lake ( violet fog4  
,a few %apes are j felt 9 ! mi/y space1 

b no m ?an z waves 9 wat]1 or z great]  
d5sities 9 !  undulations ( ! color$    
vapor4 ,s unc]ta9 is ev]y?+ t !  ne>e/  
temple build+ loses its place1 & floats 
all bel[ its ro(2  b its wet tiles      
glitt]1 reflect+ ! rose-color$ drift 9 !
  highe/ pale turquoise sky4    ,bel[ u1
 ! trees make a delicate patt]n ( d>k1  
wet lace4    ,!n ! rose-color deep5s &  
dulls1 ! upp] sky becomes colorless2    
all floats 9 unreal space1 & ,kioto     
disappe>s f be=e my eyes3  =ev]1 ,i     
suppose--z ! *>m ( ?is sc5e1 :i* w nev] 
come  aga92 z ! little maid5 :om ,i met 
to-day1 only = an et]nal  good-by4      
,a ,,japanese ,,day4--,,f ,,kioto ,,to  
,,gifu                                  
,,nagoya1 ,septemb]4    ,not)/&+ ! long 
p>t+1 :i* kept u up v late1 ! same      
c\rte\s ,japanese fri5ds 7 at ! hotel 9 
! morn+ to bid u a  /ill m f9al good-by4
 ,oye-,san alone rema9$ fai?ful to 8    
self-intru/$ c>e ( u1 & det]m9$ to see u
 z f> z ! l&  w\ld all[1--t is to say1  
to ! %ores ( ,biwa ,lake4    ,! c>avan 0

 small] n[1 dim9i%$ by our p>t+ )       
,awoki1 !  int]pret]1 & ! m5 necess>y to
 trundle him ab\t4 ,/ill we 7 a  goodly 
company1--n9ete5 m5 9 all1 ( :om two 7  
ma/]s1 "o !  s]vant1 & ! re/ ! runn]s :o
 7 to get u & our baggage to  ,otzu on  
,biwa ,lake long be=e noon4 ,!re 0 to be
 no novelty on our  road1 x be+ m]ely ! 
highway f ! capital to ! lake4 ,x 0 a   
lovely morn+1 ! sun long ris51 & all !  
places & build+s n[  a "p ( our memories
 gli/5+ 9 ! %ad[ & ! dew4 ,we turn$  our
 backs = ! la/ "t on ,kiyomidzu1 & ran  
?r\gh ! great gate  ( ! temple ne> u2   
!n1 bump+ d[n ! /eep /eps "u x1  skirt$ 
! great wall ( ,dai ,butzu & !          
int]m9able side ( !  ,sanjiu sang5do 7! 
hall ( ! ?irty-?ree spaces71#aj along   
:i*  9 old times ! ar*]s us$ to %oot4   
,!n we gradually got out ( !  city1 into
 ! road fill$ ) traffic go+ bo? ways4   
,!re seem$ to  be no break betwe5 t[n & 
c\ntry4 ,"h & !re ! m\nta9 side1  cov]$ 
) trees1 desc5d$ to ! road4 ,b ! effect 
0 t ( a  long /reet1 deep among hills1 &

 cont9u\sly spott$ ) build+s4  ,long    
tra9s ( beautiful black bulls1 draw+    
lumb] or m]*&ise1 or  c>ry+ /raw-cov]$  
bales1 /ream$ peacefully along4 ,we     
pass$  peasant wom51--h>dy1 tall1       
sometimes h&some1 ) sc>let und]g[ns     
held up2 occasionally "o rid+ on a      
pack-horse1 or 9 h] place a  *ild p]*$  
on ! hump ( ! wood5 saddle4 ,or1 aga91  
peasants  be>+ loads on _! backs1 or    
c>ri]s ) weighty m]*&ise swung  betwe5  
!m on poles2 prie/s1 "y & old1 /epp+    
gravely 9 _!  :ite1 or yell[1 or black  
dresses--"s ) umbrellas op51 o!rs1  ^:  
quick] /ep meant t !y _h n f> to g      
7p]haps only to  "s wayside temple71    
protect+ _! %av5 heads ) outspread fan4 
,or a kuruma1 usually ) "o runn]1 tak+  
into t[n1 economically1  two wom5       
toge!r1 "o old1 "o "y1 & foll[$ by ano!r
 kuruma  c>ry+ "s old g5tleman1 v ?9 or 
v fat1 ! head ( a  family4 ,kurumas     
c>ry+ ,japanese t\ri/s or travel]s1 )   
hide\s  billycock hats1 or              
,anglo-,indian helmets1 or wide /raw    

hats  la mode  de ,?ird ,av5ue1 ^!      
abom9able head-pieces contra/+ ) _!     
graceful g[ns1 z did _! luggage1 wrapp$ 
up 9 silk h&k]*iefs  ) _! ,european     
travel+ rugs4 ,or1 aga91 o!r kurumas    
c>ry+  unprotect$ females 9 pairs1 ) !  
usual indiff]5t or =lorn  look2 or      
c\ples ( "y girls m gaily dress$1 )     
fl[]y  hairp9s1 ! "o evid5tly a *ap]on  
to ! o!r2 !n a ,gov]nm5t  (ficial1 all  
,european1 ) hurry+ runn]s2 sometimes1 b
 r>ely1  ! ,japanese litt]1 or kago1 or 
sev]al if = a p>ty1 _!  occupants ly+ at
 _! ease z to _! backs1 b twi/$ into    
knots  z to _! feet1 & sway+ ) ! movem5t
 ( ! trott+  c>ri]s4 ,b5t to "o side by 
! heavy ridgepole1 :i* passes too l[  to
 all[ ! head to lie 9 ! axis ( ! body1  
sweet-ey$ wom5's  faces1 tea-rose or    
pea*-color$1 look$ up f ! bamboo basket 
(  ! litt]4 ,) prop] indiff]5ce _! lords
 & ma/]s look$ at  u obliquely4 ,on !   
ro(s 0 spread a miscellane\s quantity ( 
luggage4    ,f "t to "t troop]s or      
(fic]s1 ( c\rse 9 ,european co/ume1     

m\nt$ on ,japanese *>g]s1 cant]$ pa/4   
,two h\rs ( ?is2 !n !  sides ( ! road1  
:i* _h ris5 & fall5 ) hill & valley1    
melt$ away1 & ! h>bor ( ,otzu & ,lake   
,biwa & blue m\nta9s  ov] ! wat]1 & o!rs
 sket*$ 9 ! air1 7 spread be=e u 9  !   
blaze ( sunlight se5 ?r\gh ! cool %ad[ (
 ! m\nta9s4    ,we rode d[n ! hill to a 
little jetty1 m>vel\sly l a ,nor? ,riv] 
dock1 ) big %$s :]e pass5g]s 7 wait+1 & 
a little /eam]  fa/5$ to ! :>f4 ,we bade
 good-by = ! la/ "t to ,oye-,san1 :o    
said _m ?+s t we appreciat$ b did n     
und]/& ! words  (1 & :o po9t$ to ! squ>e
 ,japanese sails glitt]+ 9 !  f>-(f     
light1 say+1 ,fune1 ,fune6 7,! boats1 ! 
boats67 ,we  dismiss$ kurumas & kurumaya
 & sail$ (f ) ,hakodate 7!  c\ri]7      
alone4 ,we /ret*$ ourselves on ! upp]   
deck1 half 9 sun1  half 9 %ad[1 & bl9k$ 
lazily at ! di/ant blue m\nta9s & !     
great sea-l lake4    ,two h\rs lat] we  
_h l&$ at a long jetty1 9 a heavy sea1 )
  toss+ d>k blue wat]1 diff]5t f ! quiet
 azure ( our sail4 ,!  brisk w9d1 bl[+ !

 :ite cl\ds ov] ! blue sky1 0 cle> &    
cold4 ,we got out ( its rea*1 z ,i felt 
neuralgic1 & tri$ to sleep  9 a little  
tea-h\se1 wak+ to ! screams ( ! tea-h\se
 girl1  ,mairima%o6 & ,i _h b "t to get 
into ! tra94 ,:e!r x  />t$ f !re or _h  
arriv$ !re1 ,i nev] knew4 ,i _h be5 glad
  to =get ev]y?+ 9 dreaml&4    ,i       
rememb] little ( my railroad ride1 :at )
 neuralgia & heat1 &  ! effects ( !     
dance ( ! little /eam] on ,lake ,biwa4  
,!re 7  m\nta9s & rav9es1 & va/ eng9e]+ 
protections = our pa?1  & ev]y:]e !     
evid5ce ( a /ruggle ) ! _m runn+ wat]s  
we cross$ or skirt$4 ,! blue & silv] ( !
 lake t we _h  cross$1 & ! sweetness (  
its air1 7 %ut out 9 ! du/ & !  heat (  
m\nta9 sides4 ,we _h n se5 ! ,eight     
,beauties ( ,biwa  ,lake4#aa ,! ,autumn 
,moon f ,i%iyama _h set long be=e we    
pass$1  & ! idea ( o!r temples to be se5
 br\ght out ,a----'s antagonism  to m   
climb+1 only to be rew>d$ by prom5ades  
?r\gh lant]ns &  %r9es & confus$ /ruggl+
 ) dates & div9ities4 ,! ,ev5+  ,sn[ on 

,hira-yama 0 n to fall until we %\ld be 
across !  ,pacific2 nor c\ld we ask ( t 
blue ,septemb] morn+ ,! ,blaze (  ,ev5+ 
at ,seta nor ,! ,ev5+ ,bell (           
,mii-d]a--?\gh we he>d !  bell e>ly1 &  
wond]$ :e!r x 7 /ill un9jur$1 f ! "t  :5
 big ,b5kei c>ri$ x (f & ex*ang$ x = too
 mu* s\p1  exactly sev5 hundr$ ye>s ago2
 nor ,ra9 by ,night at ,k>asaki1 !      
place ( ! fam\s p9e-tree1 :i* 0 gr[+1 !y
 say1 tw5ty-f\r  hundr$ ye>s ago1 :5    
,jimmu 0 emp]or4 ,!re ,i might h met1   
p]haps1 ! ,old ,man & ! ,old ,woman y h 
se5 ov] & ov]  aga9 9 ! pictures & on ! 
fans4 7,!y are ! spirits ( !  o!r old   
p9e-trees ( ,takasago & ,sumiyo%i1 & !y 
are fond (  visit+ ea* o!r47 ,nor did we
 see ,! ,wild ,geese alight+ at         
,katada1 b ,i felt z if ,i _h se5 ,!    
,boats sail+ back f  ,yabase & ,!       
,bright ,sky ) a ,breeze at ,awadzu4 ,if
 ,i _h n1 ,i  /ill _h se5 boats sail+   
ov] & "u z lovely a blue z c be  spread 
by e>ly ,septemb] days4 ,i suppose t our
 fri5d ,oye-,san 0  try+ to recall ^!   

la/ classical quotations to me :5 he    
bade me  good-by at ! l&+ 9 ,otzu4 ,an  
ocean rolls betwe5 8 ,p>nassus &  ours1 
b he lives mu* ne>] to ! mood t once    
made beautiful !  names ( ,tempe &      
,helicon & ! w9d+ ,me&]4                
,illu/ration3 ,,fusi-,,yama ,,f ,,kamb>a
 ,,bea*4    ,) all ?is dream+ ,i fell   
asleep1 & woke free f pa91 b  /upid &   
unimpressionable1 z our tra9 /opp$ at ! 
little /ation  f :i* we 7 to ride to    
,gifu4 ,?is 0 a little1 new way-/ation  
7( c\rse ,i don't rememb] its "n71 s l1 
& s unlike1 "o (  ours1 ) ! same look ( 
! railroad be+ laid d[n--impos$--on  an 
e>? :i* did n und]/& :at x all          
meant--grass /ruggl+ to  get back to !  
sides ( fill$-up dit*es2 timb]s ly+     
ab\t2 new1  a/oni%$ build+s1 9 "o ( :i* 
we wa%$1 & wait$1 & d9$4  ,mean:ile     
,hakodate w5t aft] ! runn]s :o 7 to drag
 u on our  aft]noon ride1 & !n1 if we   
suit$1 to run ) u ! :ole week1          
?irty-five miles a day1 along !         
,tokaido1 back t[>d ,yokohama4    ,:5   

all 0 ready x 0 late aft]noon1 & our    
procession ran along  :at seem$ to be a 
va/ pla9 ( tablel&1 ) high m\nta9s = an 
edge4 ,all seem$ z cle> & neat z ! air  
we rode 94 ,some:]e  !re we mu/ h pass$ 
! hill ( ,! ,turn+ ,back ( ! ,*>iot3    
?is means t1 long ago1--t is to say1    
ab\t #adgj1--! reg5t  ,yo%imoto1 :ile   
travel+ "h1 f\nd t ! inhabitants1 to d  
him  honor1 _h put 9 ord]1 neat & trim1 
! ?at* ( e build+4  ,:at ! pr9ce 0 look+
 = is :at we call ! picturesque4 ,to    
miss  all ! *>ms t ru9 br+s 0 too mu* = 
8 e/hetic s\l1 &  he ord]$ ! :eels ( 8  
*>iot to be turn$ = home4 ,s did n  we4 
,neat] & neat] grew ! inclosures1 f>ms1 
& villages2 !  f5ces _h pretty          
gates1--curi\s patt]ns ( bamboo         
pickets1--a  f>-away1 out-(-!-_w flavor 
( ,holl& or ,fl&]s4 ,ev5 !  ord9>y sett+
 out ( wayside trees1 9 ?is prov9ce (   
=e/ry1  insi/$ on ! analogy1 confus$    
p]haps ) a dream ( ,lomb>d pla9s  &     
m\nta9s 9 a cool blue di/ance1 = ! m9d  
insi/s on cl++  to rem9isc5ces1 z if    

afraid to tru/ itself to ! full sea (   
new  impressions4    ,z ,i rode along1 s
 neat & clean 0 ea* picture1 fram$ 9    
sunlight  if we 7 9 %ad[1 or 9 cle> %ade
 :5 we 7 9 sunlight1 t  ,i ?\ght ,i c\ld
 rememb] en\gh small facts = sket*es &  
notes  :5 ,i %\ld get to ,gifu4 ,we     
rea*$ ,gifu 9 ! e>ly twilight1 &  _h no 
special "o impression2 we 7 fram$ 9 by !
 /reets1 &  confus$ by turn+ corn]s1 &  
di/urb$ by anxiety to get 94 ,b  we _h  
"o great triumph4 ,our guide 0 new to ! 
place--z we 72  & we *ose our inn at our
 own sweet w1 ) a feel+ ( au?ority  &   
p]sonal responsibility delici\s to      
exp]i5ce aft] su* ignom9y  ( guidance4  
,up we w5t to our rooms1 & op5+ !       
%ojis#ab  look$ out ^u ! riv]1 :i* seem$
 broad z a great lake4 ,our  h\se 0 "r  
^u x1 & ! op5 casem5t fram$ no?+ b wat] 
& po9t$ m\nta9s1 /eal+ away 9 ! obscure 
cle>ness ( a  colorless twilight4 ,!    
runn+ ( ! riv]1 slop+ d[n f !  hills on 
a b$ ( pebbles1 cut (f ! noises ( ! t[n1
 if !re  7 any1 & ! sil5ce 0 l t (      

f>-away c\ntry heights4  ,9 ?is         
semi-pa9ful t5sion ! day's pictures     
disappe>$ f my  m9d4 ,i 0 all prep>$ to 
h some?+ happ51 = :i* ,i %\ld  h be5    
li/5+1 :5 sudd5ly our ho/ appe>$1 to say
 t !  boats 7 com+ d[n ! riv]4 ,! *illy 
ev5+ air gave u new  fre%ness1 & (f we  
/>t$1 deaf to ! remon/rances (          
,hakodate1  :o _h prep>$ & set out 8 v  
be/ = supp]4 ,we ru%$ pa/  ! arti/ 9    
cook]y1 ^: feel+s ,i c\ld yet           
appreciate1 &  plung$ aft] our ho/ into 
! d>k /reets4 ,9 a few m9utes we 7  by !
 riv]side1 & c\ld see f> (f :at we took 
= our boat1  ) its ro( & lant]ns4 ,!    
pr(f]$ backs ( our lant]n-be>+          
att5dants gave ! solution ( h[ we 7 to  
get to x4 ,/raddl+  our human nags1 we 7
 c>ri$ f> out into ! %all[1 pebbly riv]1
  l&$ into ! boat1 & pol$ out into deep]
 wat]1 no?+ to be  se5 b ! night & !    
conical hills1 "o ( :i* ,i fanci$ to be 
,inaba1 :]e 0 once ,nobunaga's ca/le4   
,"s fa9t mi/s 7 :ite  9 ! di/ance1 z if 
light$ by a ris+ moon4 ,at no great     

di/ance  f u1 p]haps at a qu>t] ( a     
mile1 a light flick]$ ov] !  wat]4 ,on  
our approa* we c\ld di/+ui% a man       
connect$ ) x1  :o app>5tly walk$ on !   
d>k surface4 ,he 0 evid5tly a fi%]man   
or a %rimp]1 & 8 movem5ts _h all !      
/rang5ess ( "s  long-legg$ aquatic bird4
 ,he knew 8 pa?1 &1 f> out1 foll[$ "s   
track or =d1 add+ to ! lonel9ess z does 
a crane 9 a m>%y  l&scape4 ,!n ,i saw   
him no m1 = he head$ up ! riv] t[>d  an 
op5+ betwe5 ! hills4 ,sudd5ly a haze (  
light r\nd$ !  corn] ( ! ne>e/ m\nta91  
!n grew into a l9e ( fire com+  t[>d u4 
,above ! ru/le ( ! riv]'s c\rse1 & our  
own aga9/  x1 came ! beat+ ( a cry 9    
unison4 ,! l9e ( flame broke into  _m   
fires1 & we c\ld see ! boats ru%+ d[n ^u
 u4 ,z quickly  z ,i c write x1 !y came 
9 an ev5 l9e1 wide ap>t--p]haps  fifty  
feet or s--en\gh = u to pass betwe51    
:]eupon we rev]s$  our movem5t & drift$ 
along ) !m4 ,9 ! front ( ea* boat1  hung
 ^u a b5t pole1 blaz$ a l>ge cresset    
fill$ ) p9e knots1  mak+ above a cl\d ( 

smoke1 />r$ ) sp>ks & long ne$les  ( r$ 
c9d]s4 ,bel[1 9 ! circle ( ea* light1 & 
on its out]  rim1 swam _m birds1 glossy 
black & :ite cormorants1 /ra9+  s at !  
cords t held !m t !y appe>$ to be dragg+
 !  boats4 ,z !y spread l a fan be=e !  
d>k %ad[ ( ! b[s1  ! cords :i* fa/5$ !m 
gli/5$ or 7 black 9 ! night4  ,ea* /r+  
ran ?r\gh ! f+]s ( ! ma/]-fi%] at ! b[s1
  & 0 fa/5$ to 8 wai/ & lo/ 9 ! glitt]+ 
/raw ( 8  ra9-skirt4 ,l a f\r-9-h&      
driv]1 he seem$ to feel 8 birds'        
movem5ts4 ,8 f+]s loos5$ or tight5$1 or1
 z sudd5ly1 ) a  clut* pull$ back4 ,!n  
came a rebelli\s flutt]+1 & ! :ite      
glitt] ( fi% 9 ! beaks                  
disappe>$--unavail+ly2 ea* bird 0       
=cibly drawn up to ! gunwale1 & seiz$ by
 ! neck encircl$  by its /r+-be>+ coll>4
 ,!n a squeeze--a :ite fi% glitt]$  out 
aga9 & 0 ?r[n back into ! boat4 ,! bird 
scuttl$ away1  dropp$ back into ! wat]1 
&1 %ak+ itself1 0 at "w aga94  ,!y swam 
) necks erect1 _! eyes app>5tly look+   
ov]  ev]y?+1 & s indiff]5t to small     

matt]s z to all[ ! big  c9d]s to lie    
unnotic$ on _! oily1 flat heads4 ,b1 e  
few  seconds1 "o w\ld /oop d[n1 !n ?r[  
back its head wildly )  a fi% crosswise 
9 its m\?4 ,:5 t fi% 0 a small "o x 0   
all[$ by ! ma/] ( ! bird to rema9 9 !   
capaci\s gullet4  ,ea* pack guid$ by a  
ma/] v>i$ 9 numb]s1 b ,i c\nt$ ?irte5   
fa/5$ to ! wai/ ( ! fi%]man ne>e/ to u4 
,beh9d him  /ood ano!r pol+3 !n f>!r    
back an appr5tice1 ) a s+le  bird1 0    
le>n+ to manage 8 fea!r$ tools4 ,9 ! /]n
 /ood  ! /e]sman1 us+ a long pole4 ,e   
man %\t$1 z huntsm5  enc\rag+ a pack1   
,hoo6 ,hoo6 ,hoo6--mak+ ! cry ^: rhy?m  
we  _h he>d :5 ! flotilla bore d[n ^u u4
      ,illu/ration3 ,,fi%+ ,,)          
,,cormorants4    ,t5 m9utes1 a qu>t] (  
an h\r1 m pass$ z we kept alongside )   
motionless cel]ity4 ,i tri$ to sket* 9 !
 insuffici5t light--mak+  sometimes "o  
sket* "r ^u ano!r1 s little c\ld ,i see 
my l9es  9 ! trea*]\s light4 ,!n ! boats
 sw]v$ (f & 7 driv5 to  ! %ore toge!r1  
or z f> z we c\ld get to x1 9 ! %all[   

wat]4 ,above u rose ! /eep gre5         
hillside1 ! trees & rocks lit  up 9 an  
arabesque ( light & d>k by ! n[ dim9i%$ 
flames4    ,! birds re/$1 /&+ 9 ! wat]1 
pre5+ _! oily backs &  :ite bellies1 &  
flapp+ _! ragg$ w+s1 :i* seem$ to h  be5
 clipp$4 ,! appr5tice c>ess$ 8 bird1 !  
fi%]m5 & !  /e]]s laugh$ & ex*ang$ jokes
 & *att$ g5]ally1 ) all !  good nature &
 mak+ light ( h>d "w :i* is s ess5tially
  ,japanese4    ,!n ! birds began to    
fight1 & to %[ t peace 0 n _!  pleasure4
 ,fre% p9e knots 7 ?r[n into ! cressets2
 ea* man took  8 place2 ! pol]s pu%$ (f2
 ! birds /ra9$ at ! /r+s2 &  all da     
capo4 ,a little long] we wat*$1 & !n we 
let ! boats  glide pa/ u2 ! fires fad$  
aga9 into a haze ( light z !y w5t  d[n !
 riv] t[>d ! bridges ( ! t[n1 n[ dott$ )
 p4    ,!n we 7 c>ri$ to ! %ore z we _h 
left x1 & 7 pilot$  home ?r\gh ! /reets1
 n[ fill$ ) lant]ns & movem5t4 ,we  f\nd
 our outrag$ arti/ 9 cook]y /ill        
indignant ov] our neglect (  food1 b he 
0 gradually appeas$1 & made up = 8      

hungry ma/]s  a fairly suffici5t meal4  
,cig>s1 a scrut9y ( my despair+ sket*es1
  & a long look at ! lovely melan*oly ( 
! riv] & m\nta9s  be=e we clos$ ! %ojis 
= ! night4         #aj ,?ree hundr$ &   
eighty-n9e feet long4         #aa       
,omi-no-hakkei4         #ab ,slid+      
scre5s1 :i* take ! place ( our w9d[s4   
,,f ,,kamb>a ,,to ,,miyano%ita--,a      
,,lett] ,,f ,a ,,kago                   
,septemb] #bh4    ,i am writ+ 9 a       
kago4#ac ,y d n "k :at an a*ievem5t ?is 
is1 b ,i %all expla9 lat] on :at a kago 
is1 :y ,i am 9 x1 & :y  x is n exactly !
 place to expect a lett] f4 ,to beg9 at 
!  beg9n+1 we 7 ye/]day aft]noon at     
,kamb>a1 on ! gulf ( ,suruga  ,bay4 ,we 
_h eat5 !re 9 an inn by ! wat]1 :ile ,i 
wat*$ ?r\gh  ! scre5s ! wav+ ( a palm   
tree 9 ! w9d1 :i* 0 n[ bl[+  autumnally 
& _h cle>$ ! sky & enliv5$ u ) a hope ( 
cont9u\s view ( ,fuji4 ,along ! bea*1 z 
we rode away1 ! break]s  ran f> up ! s&1
 & ! wat] 0 gre5 z em]ald f ! br[n1  wet
 %ore to ! di/ant blue haze ( ! ocean 9 

! s\?4 ,at ! end  ( ! great curve ( !   
gulf /ret*$ ! l9es ( gre5 & purple      
m\nta9s1 :i* run f> (f into ,idzu1 &    
above !m /ood ,fuji 9 !  sky1 v pale &  
cle>1 ) "o enorm\s b& ( cl\d half-way up
  its long slope1 & melt+ into inf9ite  
di/ance t[>d ! ocean4 ,its  ne>e/ po9t  
hung half across ! m\nta9's base1 m     
solid ?an !  m\nta9 itself1 & ca/ a long
 %ad[ ^u x = miles ( di/ance4  ,above1 !
 eye c\ld b j detect a fa9t haze 9 !    
delicate blue  ( ! sky4 ,be/ ( all      
wea!r1 we ?\ght2 a bre$] ( bad wea!r1   
accord+ to our m51 :o1 alas6 knew m ( x 
?an we did4 ,= a mile  n[1 p]haps1 we   
ran along betwe5 ! sea & ! abrupt gre5  
wall (  hills1 s /eep t we c\ld n see   
!m1 &1 turn+ %>ply ar\nd  a corn]1      
beheld ,fuji1 n[ fill+ ! entire field ( 
sight1 seem+ to  rise ev5 f bel[ u into 
! upp] sky1 & fram$ at its base by  ne> 
gre5 m\nta9s2 ^! op5$ z a gate1 & %[$ ! 
glitt]+  /reak ( ! swoll5 ,fujikawa1 !  
swifte/ riv] 9 ,japan4    ,! l[] ea/]n  
slope 0 cut (f by cl\ds1 b its we/]n    

l9e1  ineffably delicate 9 cle>ness1    
/ret*$ to ! left out ( our range  (     
vision4 ,bel[ its violet edge ! gold5   
slope spread 9 ! sun1 (  ! color ( an   
autumn leaf4 ,along ! c5t] ( ?is prov9ce
 ( space  ! %ad[ ( ! great cl\d re/$4 ,!
 m>ks ( ! spurs ( !  m\nta9 7 z fa9t z !
 /reaks ( ! w9d on a gra9-field4 ,its   
cone 0 ( a deep violet color1 & z free (
 sn[ z ?\gh ?is _h  be5 ! day ( poetic  
tradition ^u :i* ! sn[ entirely         
disappe>s  to fall aga9 ! foll[+ night4 
,no words c recall adequately !  simple 
spl5dor ( ! div9e m\nta94 ,z ,a----     
rem>k$1 x 0 wor?  com+ to f> ,japan =   
?is s+le day4    ,"r into ?is m>vel\s   
picture we rode1 ?r\gh gre5 plantations 
&  rice-fields1 :i* edg$ ! bases ( !    
ne>e/ hills & lay betwe5  u & ! riv]4   
,!re we f\nd no means ( cross+4 ,all    
bridges _h  be5 c>ri$ away by ! flood4  
,! pla9 0 inundat$2 travel]s _h  be5    
deta9$ = a week by a sea ( wat]s1 & 7   
scatt]$ !re  & 9 neighbor+ villages1    
fill+ e re/+-place2 &1 wor/ (  all1 !   

police (ficials w\ld n all[ u to tempt !
 fi%]m5 to  make ! dang]\s cross+4      
,illu/ration3 ,,peasant ,,c>ry+ ,,fodd]1
 ,,& ,,bull ,,c>ry+ ,,load4    ,!       
occasion 0 a solemn "o4 ,! police       
repres5tative1 ^u see+  u come 9 p]son  
to reque/ help1 slipp$ (f ! easy        
,japanese dress  :i* he 0 we>+ 9 ^! days
 ( =c$ idl5ess1 & reappe>$  f beh9d !   
scre5 clad 9 8 (ficial ,european co/ume4
 ,i h  no d\bt t our int]pret] expla9$  
to him :at important p]sons  we 71 & :at
 important lett]s we bore to important p
 (  ! l&1 = he k9dly sugge/$ t we might 
sail pa/ ! m\?  ( ! riv]1 f ne> ,kamb>a1
 :5ce we _h j come1 s z to  l& f> away f
 ! spread ( all ?is deva/ation2 & he    
(f]$  to s5d a deputy ) a requisition = 
a junk & suffici5t sailors  f ! ne>e/   
fi%+-village on ! bay--& s we return$4  
,:ile  ,hakodate & ! mess5g] w5t on to  
make all arrangem5ts1 ,a----  & myself  
/opp$ at ! place :]e we _h _h our view (
 ,fuji1 to  make a m c>eful sket*4 ,y c 
h no idea ( h[ mu* clos]  ! cle>] m9d   

work$ out ! true outl9e ( ! m\nta91 :i* 
my excitem5t _h height5$ at lea/ a c\ple
 ( ?\s& feet2 nor  %\ld ,i =get h[ my   
two-legg$ horse ( a runn] held my       
pa9t-box  = me1 & seem$ to "k exactly :5
 & :]e ,i wi%$ to dip my  bru%4 ,x seem$
 to me t only a few mom5ts _h pass$ :5 !
  mess5g] return$ to say t ! boat 0     
ready to laun*1 & t  we mu/ hurry to be 
out at sea be=e sunset2 ?is too 9 view (
 !  /orm1 :i* we might escape if we     
hurri$4 ,! impli$ ?reat made  no        
impression on me4 ,! picture be=e u _h n
 *ang$ any m  ?an if pa9t$ by man4 ,!   
great cl\d hung fix$1 app>5tly1 9  !    
same place4 ,all 0 /ill3 p]haps 9 !     
upp]mo/ sky "o c\ld  di/+ui% "s outl9es 
( :ite 9 ! blue4 ,/ill we hurri$ (f  &  
arriv$ ^u a sc5e ( confusion & wild     
excitem5t4 ,a capta9  & a crew _h be5   
f\nd2 _! boat /ood high up on ! cre/ (  
! surf1 n[ beat+ on ! %ore1 & c>ri$ !   
l9e ) :i* to  pull out ! small junk1    
/ill f> up on ! bea*4 ,! :eels ( our    
kurumas _h be5 tak5 (f & _! bodies _h   

be5 plac$ 9 ! hold4    ,z we got on bo>d
 at lea/ a hundr$ nak$ m5 pu%$ & tugg$  
to  />t ! junk ^u ! slope ( s&4 ,! sun 0
 sett+ sudd5ly  beh9d ! headl& (        
,%izuoka1 & ! air 0 fill$ ) !  moi/ure f
 ! sea2 a rosy bloom1 p9k z ! cl\ds     
!mselves1  fill$ ! entire air1 ne> & f>1
 t[>d ! light4 ,on ! o!r side  ! di/ance
 0 fad+ into gray & violet mi/4 ,! great
 m\nta9  0 /ill a great cle> mass1 b    
colorless1 l ! nor!rn sky  beh9d x1     
:ile1 ba!d 9 ! color ( fairyl&1 we rose 
& fell  ov] ! break]s--! spray1 ! waves1
 ! boat1 ! bodies ( !  m51 gli/5+ &     
suffus$ ) p9k4    ,no pa9t] ev] saw a m 
ideal light4 ,& sudd5ly x fad$1 leav+  u
 9 a /ill brilliant twilight1 ?r\gh :i* 
we look$ at ! toss+  ( ! hazy sea4 ,!   
ma/ 0 lift$ & set1 ! great squ>e sail 0 
hoi/$1 & ! capta9 took hold ( ! pond]\s 
till]4 ,we /ret*$  ourselves on ! poop  
deck1 prep>$ = a dance ( sev5te5 miles2 
!n "u my protect+ blanket ,i fell       
asleep--to wake & see be=e  me a %eet ( 
ra94 ,! pr$ict$ /orm _h flood$ u2 we lay

 9 !  wat] t cov]$ ! deck1 our wat]pro(s
 insuffici5t1 & glad to  be able to f9d 
"s protection "u ! ,japanese ra9-coats (
 /raw1  ^: m]its ,i _h n yet und]/ood4  
,f "u my %elt] ,i c\ld see t our ma/ 0  
l[]$1 & t  ! capta9 & ! sailors =w>d 7  
work+ at ! heavy sweeps4  ,bel[1 "u     
hat*es1 ,i c\ld he> ! groan+ ( our      
seasick runn]s4  ,betwe5 ! gu/s ( ra9   
came ! voice ( ! capta91 n[ 9 !  /ra9+  
agony ( seasickness1 next keep+ up a    
/eady1 *ant$ talk  ) a mate =w>d4 ,a    
lant]n 0 la%$ to ! po/ ( ! till]1 &  !  
capta9's b>e feet rose & fell ) 8 /eps  
at ! great o>1  %[+ %>ply ! action (    
t5dons & muscles4 ,i tri$ to sket*  "u  
my cov]1 !n doz$1--sleepy ) ! rock+ & ! 
cold &  ! wet1--& ) e wak+ he>+ ! :i/l+ 
( ! w9d &  ! cont9u\s monoton\s voice 9 
a language n und]/ood4 ,s pass$  !      
night4    ,we saw ! morn+ break on a    
lonely1 high1 gray bank1 /reak$ by !    
sea l9es ( diff]5t tides1 & cr[n$ ) a   
l9e ( p9es ( all  sizes & %apes1 /ret*+ 
= miles d>k gre5 aga9/ ! :ite  cl\ds :i*

 cov]$ ! base ( ! m\nta9s beh9d4 ,out ( 
^!  :ite banks /ood dull blue peaks1    
:ile ! highe/ m\nta9s 7 lo/  9 cl\d1 &  
all 0 gray & desolate ) ! ra94 ,! surf  
broke on  ! s& n m ?an a hundr$ y>ds f  
u4 ,we lay !re "s "t1  wait+ = m light1 
= all w9d _h ceas$2 !n f\r m5 swam      
a%ore ) a rope1 & t[$ u along ! bank4 ,!
 surf _h abat$1  b l&+ 0 too difficult1 
& we 7 to be dragg$1 :ile our  o!r m5   
work$ at ! big sculls & pu%$ u along4   
,we wore along  f\r miles to a little   
b>1 ov] :i* we 7 pull$ by ! m5 n[ 9  !  
wat] into a s+ul> little h>bor ) an     
entrance n m ?an a  hundr$ feet wide4   
,on ?is ! surf broke g5tly--:ite on !   
gray sea4  ,to our left ! backs ( two   
s&-spits dott$ ! wat]1 & on !  "r1 look+
 out to sea1 rose ! edge ( a grove (    
p9es1 ) f\r  or five h\ses1 heavy ro($ &
 ?at*$1 aga9/ its gre5 d>kness4    ,on !
 curve ( ! bea* be=e x /ood a high po9t$
 rock almo/  t\*$ by ! wat]1 edg$ ar\nd 
& cov]$ ) p9es--all b !  p]p5dicul> side
 fac+ ! h>bor4 ,on its summit /ood a    

little r$  temple1 ^: back we saw4 ,on !
 o!r side1 l&w>ds1 z we left our  boat &
 foll[$ our guides a%ore ar\nd its base1
 a hundr$ /eps ran  /raight up to !     
front ( ! little %r9e--s /eep & sudd5 t 
we c\ld j look along _! edge4 ,f ! high 
rock1 recess$1 ran  back ! %ore1 on :i* 
/ood 9 a r[ ?ree l>ge junks ) _!  /]ns  
to ! sea--beh9d !m trees & h\ses4 ,on ! 
opposite side (  ! little h>bor f\r (   
our m51 up to _! middle or up to _!     
armpits 9 wat]1 sl[ly dragg$ our junk   
ne>] to ! %ore4 ,all 0  quiet & gray--! 
m5 reflect$ 9 ! mov+ wat]1 ! boat creak+
  along sl[ly4 ,z ,i w5t up ! bea*1     
foll[+ our guide & !  boatm51 ,i ?\ght  
h[ l ?is 0 to ! ,hom]ic hav5--! grove   
look+ out to sea & frequ5t$ by f[ls     
m>itimal2 ! sacr$ rock2  ! mead[s & !   
little /ream2 ! long galleys drawn up on
 !  bea*4 ,! little h\ses ( !           
fi%+-village 7 surr\nd$ by  g>d5s1 & _! 
walls l>gely made ( plait$ bamboo4 ,!re 
0 no  inn1 b we f\nd a h\se half %op1 & 
7 welcom$ to "s tea &  to a room :i* !  

family ha/5$ to ab&on = u4 ,!re 7 only  
two rooms besides ! entrance1 :i* 0 a   
l>ge passage floor$ )  e>?1 & along "o  
side ( x a rais$ surface1 f :i* began ! 
level ( our floor+4    ,slid+ p>titions1
 hurri$ly run up1 made u a room1 b !    
outside  scre5s 7 full ( holes1 ?r\gh   
:i*1 9 a few m9utes1 pe]$ all  ! wom5 & 
*ildr5 ( ! village1 :o occasionally ev5 
pu%$  aside ! scre5s to see m           
completely4 ,! little passage 9 front ( 
our op5 room 0 fill$ ) girls & *ildr5   
int5t ^u our ways (  smok+1 ( tak+ tea1 
& ( eat+--= we _h biscuits ) u1 &       
fifte5 h\rs at lea/ )\t food _h made u  
fairly hungry4 ,mean:ile  ! m5 l&$ _!   
wagons & ! trunks1 & took _! meal (     
rice1  ha/ily made up1 on ! l$ge ( !    
plat=m on :i* we sat4 ,?is !y  did 9 a  
r[1 ! :ole tw5ty eat+ quietly b         
rapidly1--,i 0 go+  to say firmly1--%ov+
 into _! m\?s ! rice f ! b[ls1 &  te>+ )
 _! f+]s ! fi% j cook$4 ,mean:ile1 among
 all  ! ugl9ess ar\nd u 9 wom51 %one    
out1 ) beautiful  complexions1--lo/ 9 ! 

o!rs by exposure to w9d & sun1 by h>d   
"w1 & probably by *ild-be>+1--?ree      
girls1 :o /ood be=e u a  long "t1 )     
sweet faces & bright eyes & tee?4 ,!y   
/>$ h>d  at u until />$ at 9 return1 :5 
!y disp]s$1 to wat* u aga9  l *ildr5 f !
 doors & f ! kit*54    ,our ho/ess1     
small1 fat1 good-natur$1 & polite1 %[+  
black-lacqu]$ tee? betwe5 rosy lips1 l  
ripe se$s 9 a  wat]melon1 bu/l$ ab\t    
hurry+ ev]y?+1 & at ! end ( our  meal   
our ho/ appe>$--f ! kit*5 app>5tly--&   
knelt be=e  u4 ,poor & ragg$ z ! h\se 01
 ) ceil+s black ) age &  smoke1 & scre5s
 torn & worn by rubb+1 ! little tokonoma
 held  a fairly good picture1 & a pretty
 vase ) fl[]s bel[ x4 ,b x  0 evid5tly  
"o ( ! poore/ ( places1 & _h nev] se5 a 
=eign] 9 x4 ,?is may h be5 ! cause ( !  
appe>ance ( !  ubiquit\s ,japanese      
policeman )9 five m9utes ( our arrival4 
,he  alone betray$ no curiosity1 &      
disappe>$ ) dignity on gett+ our        
cr$5tials4    ,! ra9 /ill held (f4 ,we  
ent]$ our kurumas1 n[ ready1 & ha/5$  to

 ! ma9 road :i* we 7 to f9d at ,numadsu1
 if t be ! "n  ( ! place4 ,b1 alas6 !   
ra9 came d[n1 & my views 7 conf9$  )9 ! 
outl9e ( an umbrella4 ,my only adv5ture 
0 /opp+ at  "s hovel on ! road to buy "s
 m ( t heavy yell[ oil$ pap]  :i*       
replaces ! lea!r apron t we usually f9d 
atta*$ to our  ,european c>riages4 ,by &
 by ,i cons5t$ to h ! hood ( my wagon   
put up1 ?r\gh :i* ,i c\ld see little m  
?an ! ?at*$ backs (  my runn]s1 _! b[ls 
( hats1 (f :i* ! ra9 spatt]$ ^u _!  /raw
 cloaks & aprons1 & _! wet br[n legs1   
lift$ ) !  regul>ity ( automatons4 ,x 0 
gett+ cold1 too1 & wom5 "u  _! umbrellas
 wore ! graceful %ort ov]coat !y call   
haori1 &  tott]$ ov] ! wet gr\nd on high
 wood5 patt5s4    ,?is ,i notic$ z we   
came into ,mi%ima1 f :i* place we 7 to  
beg9 our asc5t up ! ,hakone ,pass4 ,on  
our way1 7 x to cle>1 we  might see     
,fuji aga9--at any rate1 if x cle>$ 9 ! 
lea/ we w\ld  enjoy ! m\nta9s4 ,mean:ile
 we %iv]$ at lun*1 try+ to get into     
corn]s :]e ! w9d w\ld n leak ?r\gh !    

cracks ( ! %ojis1  & beg9n+ to exp]i5ce 
! discom=ts ( ,japanese inns4 ,& n[ my  
ba%fulness hav+ gradually ab&on$ me1 ,i 
c\ld take my hot ba?1  sep>at$ f !      
h\sehold by a scre5 n ov] high1 ov] :i* 
!  fat s]vant-girls k9dly h&$ me my     
t[els4 ,excuse ^! trivial  details1 b ,i
 _c o!rwise give y ! local color1 & my  
j\rnal is "o ( small ?+s4 ,_h ,i come "h
 9 ! old days :5 ,i  fir/ fell 9 love ) 
,japan1 ,i might h met ) "s ?rill+      
exp]i5ce 9 an inn4    ,i might h _h su* 
an exp]i5ce z our poor fri5d ,fauvel met
 )  n f> f "h4 ,i might h met "s "y     
sword$ m51 anxi\s to  ma9ta9 _! dignity 
& ripe = a qu>rel ) ! =eign]4 ,d y      
rememb] t he jo/l$ ! sword ( "s         
y\ng/]--! sword1 !  s\l ( !             
,samurai--:i* its own] _h left ^u !     
floor4 ,!  insult w\ld h be5 impossible 
to expla9 away _h n "s s5sible          
,japanese (ficial decid$ t a man :o 0 s 
c>eless ) 8 sword  z to leave x on !    
mat1 in/ead ( on ! reputable sword-rack1
 _h  no "r to compla9 ( ano!r's         

inadv]t5ce4    ,i sometimes wond] :i* ( 
! c\rte\s p]sons ,i meet1 :5 age  all[s 
! supposition1 obey$ ^! rules :5 !y 7   
y\ng]2 :i*  ones n[ dress$ 9 black      
broadclo? wore ! great helmet )  bran*+ 
horns1 or /rapp$ ! two great swords at  
_! wai/4 ,&  ,i am lo/ 9 respect &      
bewild]m5t to ?9k t all ?is wondr\s     
*ange--z great z any t ! _w c h se5--0  
effect$ )  su* success & accept$ 9 su* a
 l(ty _s4      ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,runn] 
,,9 ,,! ,,ra94    ,we 7 n[ to give up ! 
kuruma & to travel by ! kago1 :i*1 y  w 
rememb]1 ,i promis$ to describe4 ,! kago
 is a curi\s  in/itution1 p>tly sup]s$$ 
by ! kuruma1 b l+]+ 9 _m  places1 &     
necess>y :]e ! pack-horse w\ld be       
unsafe1 & :]e  "o w\ld o!rwise h to     
walk4 ,x consi/s ( a small litt] hung by
  /iff bamboos f a great pole1 ov] :i*  
is /eadi$ a little matt$  ro(1 f :i*    
v>i\s protections f ra9 or sun c be     
dropp$4  ,! kago has its discom=ts3 "o  
lies d[n 9 x all d\bl$ up1 )  legs      
cross$ z f> z !y c be made to1 because !

 basket1 :i* is  ! body ( ! litt]1 is   
only ab\t ?ree feet long2 & ) head to   
"o side1 because1 if "o lift$ x1 x might
 /rike ! ridge-pole4 ,!  prop] way is to
 lie n q 9 ! axis4 ,?is is all ! m      
natural1 z ! m5 at ei!r end d n c>ry x 9
 a /raight l9e1  b at an angle1 s t f "o
 side y c see a little 9 front (  y4    
,into ! kagos we 7 fold$1 & 9 a torr5t (
 ra9 we dep>t$4 ,i  resi/$ my be+ %ut up
 9 my litt] by ! oil$-pap] sides t are  
us$ 9 ! ra91 & ,i dep5d$ ^u mack9to% &  
blanket to protect  me4 ,! ra9 came d[n 
9 %eets4 ,we trott$ uphill1 ! m5 go+ on 
= a few m9utes1 !n *ang+ %\ld]s1 & !n   
aga9 ano!r pair  tak+ _! turn--f\r to   
ea* litt]4 ,mean:ile !y sang1 z !y      
trott$1 some?+ :i* s\nd$ l ,hey1 hey1   
hey1 het tue hey4 ,!  road 0 almo/ all  
pav$1 & 9 ! /eep] asc5ts 0 v bad4    ,& 
n[ ,i began to exp]i5ce "s novel        
s5sations n easy to  describe4 ,my feet 
7 turn$ 9 ^u ! calves ( ! legs l an     
,indian ,buddha's1 & ,i soon began to   
a*e along sciatic l9es2 !n  else:]e1 !n 

ev]y:]e4 ,!n ,i det]m9$ to break ) ?is  
arrangem5t1 z ang] seiz$ me2 =tunately a
 sort ( p>alysis set 91  & ,i became    
torpid & gradually resign$2 & gradually 
also ,i fell  asleep ) ! curi\s motion &
 ! *ant ( ! m51 & woke  accu/om$1 & s ,i
 am writ+4    ,i c j rememb] l>ge trees 
& roads protect$ by !m2 "s places  :]e  
we seem$ alone 9 ! _w1 :]e we left trees
 & /ood 9  "s n>r[ pa?1 j able to see   
above its sides--all else %ut out (     
exi/5ce by ! ra92 & ,i h all along      
enjoy$ ! novel s5sation  ( mov+ on !    
level ( ! plants & %rubs4    ,we are n[ 
go+ d[nhill aga91 & c look d[n an av5ue 
( great  trees & _m /eps :i* we desc5d4 
,we are com+ to ,hakone2 ,i c  see !    
lake beyond a ,torii1 & at ! fir/ corn] 
( ! road "u  ! trees beg9s ! village4   
,,miyano%ita1 ,septemb] #bh4    ,aga9 ! 
kago1 & ! ra9 z soon z we dep>t$4 ,i    
turn$ z well z  ,i c\ld1 to f9d ! lovely
 l9es1 n[ lo/ 9 g5]al %apes &  values1  
blurr$ into masses4 ,once ! light op5$  
on ! top ( "s  high hill1 & ,i c\ld see1

 ) wild roses "r aga9/ me1 "s flat      
mile/one m>k$ ) an image aga9/ ! edges (
 di/ant m\nta9s1  & a sky ( fa9t        
twilight p9k2 or aga9 we patt]$ along 9 
wet  grass1 pa/ a great rock ) a great  
bas-relief image--a ,jizo 7patron  (    
travel]s7 sitt+ 9 ! lonel9ess ) a few   
fl[]s be=e him4  ,!n 9 ! ra91 & m+l+ ) !
 mi/1 ?ick] cl\d+s m>k$  ! /eam f hot   
spr+s1 :i* make ^! p>ts ( ! m\nta9s a   
resort = invalids & ba!rs4    ,soon !   
d>kness3 !n p9e knots 7 light$ & we     
desc5d$ among  ! trees1 9 a pa? l a     
torr5t1 ! wat] runn+ along betwe5 !     
/ones1 :i* ! feet ( ! be>]s seem$ to f9d
 in/9ctively4 ,!  arms ( ! tor*-be>]s 7 
model$ 9 wild lights & %ad[s2 !  hats ( 
! m5 made a dusky halo ar\nd _! heads2 !
 ra9-coats (  /raw gli/5$ ) wet2        
occasionally "s bran* came out1 di/9ct 9
  e leaf1 betwe5 ! smoke & ! big sp>ks &
 emb]s4 ,! noise  ( torr5ts ne> by rose 
above ! ra9 & ! patt] & ! song (  ! m54 
,! /eepness ( ! pa? seem$ only to       
increase ! rapidity  ( our runn]s1 :o   

b\nd$ along f /one to /one4 ,aft] a "t  
anxiety 0 lo/ 9 ! excitem5t ( ! ?+ & 9  
our success1 b  q late 9 our c\rse ,i   
he>d beh9d me a commotion--"o ( ,a----'s
  runn]s _h slipp$ & ! kago _h come d[n2
 no "o hurt--! kago  keeps its occupant 
pack$ too tightly4 ,!n ! pa? left ! wild
  desc5t2 we trott$ ?r\gh regul>1 muddy 
roads1 /opp$ once on  disb&+ our        
tor*-be>]s1 & rea*$ ! ,europeaniz$ hotel
 at  ,miyano%ita1 :]e ,i int5d to sleep 
to-night on a ,european b$1 ) a  bureau 
& a look+-glass 9 my room4 ,"o little   
t\* n q l  ours1 z a g5tle lady (       
unc]ta9 age (f]s me h] s]vices = !      
relief ( fatigue by massage1 be=e ,i    
desc5d to dr9k ,bass's ale 9  !         
d9+-room1 alongside ( ,britons f !      
neighbor+ ,yokohama1  only "o day's     
j\rney f>!r4         #ac ,y may pron\nce
 kang'g4          ,,po/script      ,?is 
mu* ( my lett]s1 or all b a few pages1  
has be5 publi%$ at  int]vals 9 ,!       
,c5tury ,magaz9e4 ,i _h hop$ = "t to add
 "s  fur!r notes on ,japanese art1 & "s 

fragm5ts ( my j\rnal1 b  nei!r "t nor   
heal? all[s me m4 ,i %\ld h pref]r$ also
 to  replace "s ( ! draw+s & photographs
 "h engrav$ by "s pages  f note-books   
ne>] to ! feel+ ( ! text--some?+ m      
s]i\s & less f9i%$ ?an suits a magaz9e4 
,) "s regret ,i let ^! matt]s /&2 ) less
 regret because my  notes are m]ely     
impressions ( a giv5 date4 ,s9ce !n     
,loti has  writt51 & ,mr4 ,lafcadio     
,he>n has writt5 & writes ) 8 usual     
*>m4 ,mr4 ,l[ell has op5$ s+ul> pages1  
,mr4 ,*amb]la9's au?ority  has be5 giv5 
to popul> in=mation2 ,mrs4 ,coates has  
writt5 9  laught]2 ,miss ,scidmore has  
adorn$ ! guide-book1 ,mr4 ,p>sons1 ,mr4 
,ea/ 444 ! li/ is too long4    ,i mu/   
?ank ,mr4 ,h4 ,%ugio = ! grass *>act]s (
 8 elegant  translation ( my preface2 & 
,mr4 ,m4 ,tsu*iya = mu* in=mation4      
,,app5dix      ,i give z an app5dix !   
,suruga ,gobun%o1 ! lett] ( ,iyyas to  8
 daught]-9-law1 9 :i* he def9es !       
position ( ,iymits's  bro!r4 ,i h x at  
two removes f ! orig9al1 s t1 z a       

,japanese acqua9tance rem>ks1           
,recollect+ ! %ad[ ( ! orig9al  hang+ 9 
a corn] ( my memory1 ,i h>dly recognize 
! en]getic /yle  ( ! 'old badg]'--,furu 
,danuki--z ,iyyas 0 call$ by 8          
antagoni/s4 ,not)/&+1 ,i give x ) all ^!
 defects1 !re  be+ no?+ fix$ 9 hi/ory b 
docum5ts2 & ?is docum5t gives u  ! real 
m9d ( a great man1 8 make-believe       
appe>ance1 8 intimate  resemblance to   
o!r great manag]s1 & a /atem5t ( !      
correct  ideas ( 8 "t1 to :i* he gave a 
fix$ =m4          ,,lett] ,,( ,,iy,,yas 
,x is gett+ w>m] daily1 & life is aga9 q
 pleasant4 ,h[ is x  ) y & y\r *ildr58  
,:5 la/ ,i _h ! pleasure ( visit+ y  ,i 
0 *>m$ by ! fri5dly reception :i* 0 giv5
 to me1 & ,i beg  t y w pres5t my ?anks 
!re= to y\r "l4 ,x pleases me  mu* to   
he> t bo? my gr&*ildr5--,take#ad &      
,kuni#ae--;h  gr[n4 ,:5 ,i 0 ) y ,i     
advis$ y to select a tutor = ,take4  ,h 
y already done ?is8 ,kuni is really v   
clev]2 :i* is a  ?+ to rejoice 91 & y   
ought to hold him especially de>4 ,i h  

_h "s exp]i5ce1 & !re=e proce$ to       
communicate to y my  views z to h[ y c  
br+ him up to be a good man4    ,if a   
*ild1 h[ev] clev] & gift$1 be all[$ to  
gr[ up entirely  free & )\t discipl9e1 x
 w become 9 rip] age wilful &  positive4
 ,*ildr5 are usually disob$i5t to _!    
p>5ts4 ,if !y are  made to obey _! p>5ts
 !y w yet /ill less accommodate         
!mselves to _! surr\nd+4 ,b w !y be able
 z m5 to rule  ov] ,/ates8 ,n 9 ! lea/1 
s9ce !y h n be5 able ev5 to  rule       
!mselves4 ,consid]+ h[ nave is y\?1 a   
sev]e education does  n seem at fir/    
sight to be fitt+1 b h]e9 man resembles 
a plant4  ,( a tree1 = in/ance1 only a  
little sprig fir/ %[s2 ) c>eful         
att5dance little by little ! bran*es &  
leaves are develop$2 !n  a prop is giv5 
to ! same t x may gr[ /raight1 & ! poor 
gr[?s are cut (f4 ,if ea* ye> "o goes on
 c>efully ) ?is  treatm5t "o may obta9  
/raight1 beautiful trees4 ,) man x is j 
! same4 ,z ! *ild comes to be f\r or    
five ye>s a prop is giv5  him 9 ! p]son 

( a good tutor :o %all remove ! bad     
gr[?s1  %all subdue wilfulness1 & make a
 f9e man out ( him4 ,(t5 ?is  =esight ( 
c>e is neglect$1 all[+ ! *ild to gr[ up 
9 fre$om  )\t protect+ him aga9/ 8 own  
self-w4 ,only :5 ! *ild  c already ?9k =
 itself d ! eld]s beg9 _! admonitions1 b
  !n x is q too late3 ! bran*es (       
wilfulness are already too  f> gr[n1 & !
 /em c no long] br+ =? new bran*es4 ,a  
good  tree is no long] to be aim$ at4   
,9 ?is connection ,i h a lively         
recollection ( ,saburo4#af ,:5 he  0    
born ,i 0 /ill a "y man1 & ,i 0 en*ant$ 
by ! fir/  *ild4 ,he 0 some:at weakly1 &
 on t acc\nt ,i ?\ght t he  %\ld be     
especially protect$ & giv5 ! greate/    
lib]ty4 ,i 0 n  sev]e ) him & all[$ him 
all t he wi%$4 ,aft] he _h gr[n  up ,i  
(t5 f\nd occasion to blame ?is & t 9    
him1 & to give him  admonition & advice1
 b ,i _h no success !re91 because 9 8   
y\? no "o _h tak5 tr\ble ab\t 8 conduct 
& spee*4 ,he _h  nev] le>n$ to treat 8  
p>5ts ) ?\ghtfulness1 & to respect  !m z

 filial duty ord]$1 b behav$ t[>d !m z  
if !y 7 8  equals1 s t f9ally x _h to   
come to a qu>rel1 & ! results are  t he 
hates !m n[1 & is q e/rang$ f !m4 ,w>n$ 
by  ^! evil exp]i5ces1 ,i und]took o!r  
rules = ! education (  o!r *ildr54 ,=   
in/ance1 ,i *ose p]sons to att5d ! *ild 
:o  !mselves _h be5 br\ght up f y\? ) ! 
greate/ sev]ity1  & ,i ord]$ !m to let  
me "k at once :5 ! slighte/ trace (     
wilfulness or o!r simil> defect 0       
discov]$4 ,& ,i call$ !  *ild to me1    
gave him a rebuke1 & ext5d$ to him "s   
few /rong  words ( advice4 ,?r\gh foll[+
 ?is education ! *ild grew to be  z     
faultless z a /raight gr[n tree2 knew no
 self-w1 because he  consid]$ ! w ( 8   
p>5ts z ! highe/ law4 ,he practis$      
self-control & le>n$ cont9ually h[ "o   
%\ld be/ honor "o's  p>5ts4    ,9 !     
families ( pr9ces a *ild holds ano!r    
/&+1 & is  subject$ to o!r influ5ces ?an
 9 ! families ( subjects4 ,9  provision 
( ?is & ( ! future position ( ! *ild1 8 
education  mu/ be diff]5t 9 c]ta9 po9ts4

 ,! p>5ts %\ld always oblige  ! *ild to 
foll[ ! admonitions ( ^? plac$ ab\t him1
 o!rwise  aft] _! dea? ! *ild w\ld      
succumb entirely to its own  wilfulness1
 & at ! end =feit ! ?rone1 z _m examples
 h  taught u be=e ?is4 ,!re=e1 x is !   
duty ( ! educator to  implant 9 8 s*ol> 
f ! e>lie/ y\? & be=e ev]y?+  v5]ation =
 8 p>5ts1 ! yield+ ( ! w to ,provid5ce1 
g5tl5ess t[>d subjects1 & high-m9d$ness2
 only s c he br+  him up to be a real   
man4    ,a sep>ation betwe5 ! "l & !    
subjects is c]ta9ly necess>y  = !       
uphold+ ( social ord]1 & is comm&$ by ! 
circum/ances1 b ! "l mu/ also consid] t 
he is ! subject (  8 subjects4 ,my      
tutor1 ,abe ,okura1 repeat$ ov] & ov]   
aga9 !  foll[+ precept to me 9 my y\?1 &
 ,i f9d x v well f\nd$3 ,if  9 ord9>y   
circum/ances ! subjects yield to _!     
ma/]1 ev5 :5  he is unju/1 & foll[ 8    
s]vice ev5 :5 he acts z a tyrant1 yet  9
 extraord9>y em]g5cies all ?is may *ange
 v easily4 ,!re=e1  ! rul] %\ld behave  
compassionately t[>d 8 subjects &       

di/ribute imp>tial rew>d & puni%m5t     
/rictly & ) ju/ice2 he  %\ld see 9 ^!   
subjects ! f\ndation ( 8 gov]nm5t1 =    
)\t a ,s]vant !re c be no ,ma/]4 ,9 ord]
 t !y may h  ^! tru?s be=e _! eyes 9    
rip] age1 *ildr5 %\ld be tra9$  9 "t to 
value ! op9ions ( ^? ab\t !m1 & to be   
guid$ by  !m1 because out ( ! words &   
de$s ( ^? :o are ne>e/ to u  we c be/   
judge ! wor? ( our own de$s4 ,a wilful  
man is nev]  cont5t$1 = if he yields    
only to 8 own w he =gets ! duty (       
rev]5ce = 8 p>5ts1 & e>ns 9 consequ5ce  
bo? f !m1 8  relations1 8 fri5ds1 & ev5 
f 8 s]vants1 only displeasure &         
depreciation1 & f9ally he is unable to  
rea* :at he _h propos$4 ,z  he notices  
^! failures1 he comes to hate !         
disposition (  ,provid5ce1 8 fell[-m51 &
 f9ally himself1 & f discont5t  w become
 uns\nd 9 m9d4 ,!re=e1 we %\ld always   
rem9d y\?  t x is giv5 to no man to f9d 
9 ?is _w all 8 wi% & w4    ,9 a pr9cely 
family ! second son %\ld also be made to
 notice t  he /&s 9 relation to ! eld] z

 a subject4 ,if ! second son holds  m   
p[] ?an ! elde/1 diss5sions 9 ! family  
are inevitable4 ,9  ! education ( !     
y\ng] p "o mu/ att5d to ?is1 t !y       
acquire polite & dignifi$ demeanor1 &1  
be=e ev]y?+1 avoid  ra% & rude words2   
yet n s exagg]at$ importance %\ld be    
atta*$ to a dignifi$ c>riage t a        
disreg>d ( inf]iors %\ld  arise2 o!rwise
 an und]/&+ ( ! real position is lo/1 & 
a  compassionate feel+ = ! ills (       
dep5d5ts _c exi/4 ,z (t5  z an          
opportunity may occur "o %\ld expla9 to 
! *ildr5 (  sov]eigns ! use ( c]ta9 ?+s1
 out ( :at c\ntry !y come1  t !y are (  
?is or t prov9ce1 :at pr9ce rules !re1  
:at  =tunes ! rul+ h\se has pass$ ?r\gh1
 & s =?4 ,also1 )  _! own subjects "o   
%\ld try to make !m acqua9t$ 9 a simil> 
way1 nam+1 = example1 a prom95t man z   
desc5d$ f a fam\s  g5]al1 relat+ t 8    
family has be5 = c5turies 9 ! l&1  & on 
acc\nt ( its great s]vices has good     
fame4 ,& su* l  ?+s4 ,9 ?is way ! y\? w 
le>n to e/imate 8 subjects &1  :5 a man1

 to take ! correct position t[>d !m4    
,besides1 e  pr9ce %\ld be c>efully     
tra9$ 9 y\? to all knightly arts1 su*  z
 rid+1 draw+ ! b[1 & f5c+4    ,( c\rse !
 desc5dant ( a pr9cely h\se ne$s n to g 
deeply into  ! /udies ( a sci5tific     
education4 ,x is suffici5t t he be made 
acqua9t$ by pr(essional m5 ) ! ma9      
features ( ! p>ticul>  bran*es ( sci5ce4
 ,b x is important & necess>y t he be   
in=m$ ( ! de$s ( great g5]als & fai?ful 
subjects1 &  conv]sely ( ! fate (       
fai?less (fic]s :o misl$ _! sup]iors1   
br\ght mis*ief to _! c\ntry1 & f9ally   
ru9$ h\ses :i* _h  reign$ = c5turies4 ,f
 su* examples1 dete/able or wor?y (     
imitation1 he c draw ! be/ lessons = 8  
own acts4 ,"o ought n  to judge "o's own
 do+ or n do+ aft] "o's own view ( "r & 
wrong1 b ought to look at x 9 ! mirror (
 ! p's op9ion4  ,b y _c keep ?is mirror 
l "o made ( metal1 brilliant by  poli%+ 
its outside2 y c only keep x clean &    
bright ?r\gh !  purity ( y\r own he>t4  
,evil conduct makes ! mirror lose its   

p[]  ( reflection4 ,x rema9s !n cle>    
only :5 we li/5 to ! judgm5t  ( our     
fell[-m5 ^u our acts4 ,if a rul] is     
pleas$ t "o %\ld  make him m9dful ( 8   
own faults1 if he /rives to put !m aside
 &  recomp5se ^? :o h done him ?is      
s]vice1 !n t mirror w  always %9e 9     
brighte/ spl5dor1 & ! rul] w recognize 9
 x  8 own image truly r5d]$2 &1 besides1
 he w also see :i* (  8 subjects ?9k ill
 & :i* well ( him1 & :at op9ion ( him  !
 p h 9 g5]al4 ,if he wi%es to he> only 8
 praise f  e m\?1 8 hypocritical        
surr\nd+ w try to please him )  suitable
 flatt]y1 :ile 8 really loyal subjects w
 draw ne> to him  only if he be will+ to
 see 8 faults discov]$ & to receive     
admonition will+ly4 ,a rul] %\ld always 
consid] ?is1 & nev] be  cont5t$ ) a     
surr\nd+ p]haps clev]1 b ov]-flexible & 
comply+1 & want+ 9 delib]ation &        
s9c]ity4 ,if he mi/ake1  !n doors & t[]s
 are op5 to 8 hypocritical inf]iors1    
loyal  outw>dly b traitor\s 9 he>t4     
,ji ,hiobu talk$ little & li/5$         

cont9ually :5ev] we 7  consid]+ a matt]1
 on :i* acc\nt he made a m$iocre        
impression on  outsid]s4 ,b z soon z he 
_h acquir$ a cle> view ( ! matt]1 he    
h&l$ x ) a free m9d4 ,q especially 0 ,i 
pleas$ ) him  t face to face1 &         
privately1 he drew my att5tion to a     
possible  mi/ake contemplat$2 !re=e ,i  
pref]r$ mo/ly to consid]  ev]y?+ alone )
 him fir/1 & !n only to discuss ! matt] 
publicly4    ,ta/es & tal5t are s       
sep>ate t 9 "s p !y seem to be 9        
opposition4 ,"o man has ! greate/ lik+ =
 some?+ :i* !  o!r dete/s1 & ?is "o     
acquires ) ease by virtue ( 8 gifts  :at
 ! o!r1 not)/&+ dilig5ce & en]gy1 _c    
a*ieve4 ,9  ! judgm5t ( ! wor? ( a man &
 ( 8 faculties "o ought n to  proce$    
ra%ly & "o-sid$ly1 z an example f !     
vegetable _w  tea*es u2 ea* fl[]        
develops its full spl5dor 9 ! season (  
its  bloom1 & ea* "o possesses "s       
p>ticul> beauty = :i* we  treasure x4 ,b
 !re is a plant call$ ! ,dokudami#ag ^: 
ugly  ext]ior & evil smell make u avoid 

x & consid] x useless2 &  yet x fulfils 
a v b5efic5t end4 ,= in/ance1 if y boil 
x q  long x becomes a rem>kable rem$y = 
lep]s4 ,s x is ) m54 ,_m  a man is      
misund]/ood & neglect$1 & yet ea* is    
gift$ )  c]ta9 faculties & c become an  
able & useful memb] ( society if  "o    
und]/& h[ to employ him rightly2 to e "o
 %all come a "t  :]e9 he fulfils 8      
de/9y4 ,we usually hold z useless &     
tiresome  ?+s t o!rs /udy ) zeal1 b :i* 
we d n l4 ,yet t  is n reasonable1      
especially ) a rul]4 ,until my matur]   
age ,i c\ld  n und]/& ! game ( ,g1#ah & 
c\ld n see h[ a man c\ld  busy himself )
 su* a useless ?+1 :i* gave tr\ble b no 
pleasure2 !re=e ,i ?\ght all p /upid :o 
gave !mselves up  to x4 ,to-day1 s9ce ,i
 h ?or\ghly und]/ood ! game1 ,i f9d x  v
 amus+1 especially 9 ra9y wea!r :5 ,i am
 n all[$ to g  out1 & ,i play n[ eag]ly 
) ^? :om ,i once d]id$4 ,?r\gh ?is  ,i h
 come to guess t :at has n be5 h&$ d[n f
 old times  is some:at useless4 ,x is a 
great mi/ake to ?9k t all t  pleases u  

is good & :at displeases u is bad1 & t  
"o's own  ta/e is ! only "r "o4    ,x   
(t5 happ5s t a *ild 9 its ang] at he>+  
some?+  unpleasant de/roys ! ne>e/      
available ?+2 p>5ts %\ld n  ?9k t ?is is
 a consequ5ce ( worms1 & !re=e let x g  
unpuni%$2 su* indulg5ce works l poison  
on ! "* ( !  *ild4 ,if really a disease 
be ! cause ( su* excitem5t "o ought to  
use "r away ! suitable m$ic9e4 ,he :o 9 
8 y\? has acquir$  su* habits yields to 
!m lat] :5 some?+ displeases him2 !n x  
w be se5 :at bad results unsubdu$       
wilfulness c h4 ,! object  de/roy$ (t5  
matt]s little2 b ! spoil$ *ild1 ) "t1   
v5ts  8 wra? mo/ly ^u ^? ar\nd him1 &   
(t5 feels cont5t$ only  :5 he has puni%$
 8 victims ) dea?4 ,p>5ts c only prev5t 
su* excesses 9 ! future by keep+ d[n f !
 beg9n+ e  /irr+ ( wilfulness &         
impati5ce 9 _! desc5dants4 ,! mo/       
necess>y & ! mo/ beautiful virtue ( e   
man1 especially ( a  rul]1 is           
self-control4 ,:oev] comm&s 8 own w )   
reg>d to any  good ?+ w c>ry out ! w (  

,provid5ce1 w live 9 h>mony  ) 8        
fell[-m51 w n =feit l&s & ca/les t 8    
ance/ors left him1 & w disp5se rew>ds & 
puni%m5ts ju/ly  among ! :ole p1 bo?    
among ^? fur!r away & among ^?  j ab\t  
him4 ,"u all circum/ances he w keep a   
promise once  giv51 &1 if he s]ves a    
ma/]1 be ready to give 8 life2 he w  n  
c>e fir/ = himself & !n only = o!rs1 b  
he w  unselfi%ly /rive = ! welf>e (     
o!rs1 & e>ly & late keep  ! rules ( high
 behavior4 ,he w n praise himself       
haughtily &  depreciate o!rs2 he w face 
8 ma/] )\t flatt]y or  hypocrisy1 op5ly 
& hone/ly2 & 8 p>5ts also1 z all o!r  p4
 ,he w n /rive to d ev]y?+ aft] 8 own   
op9ion1 b  w pay reg>d to traditional   
=ms 9 e act4    ,9 all five s5ses "o c  
practise self-control3 z to ! eyes1 9 n 
all[+ "o's self to be deceiv$ by        
beautiful dress1 a h&some face1  or by !
 ext]ior ( any?+4 ,z to ! s5se ( smell1 
by use "o c  get accu/om$ n only to     
pleasant odors1 b to ! mo/ s+ul>  /5*es4
 ,z to ! s5se ( he>+1 "o c pu% on       

bravely ?r\gh  ! noise & tumult (       
battle1 reckless ( ! ?und] ( cannon or !
  hiss+ ( arr[s1 to obta9 ! ri* rew>ds (
 w>4 ,z to ta/e1 "o  c avoid excess 9   
eat+ & dr9k+1 & n accu/om ! palate to   
luxuri\s meals2 f9ally1 z to ! s5se (   
feel+1 "o c ov]come  s5sitiv5ess1 & keep
 especially "o's h&s & feet entirely )9 
"o's control4 ,only he :o ?r\gh all 8   
life ?us tries to obta9  control ov]    
himself %all ^u ! ?rone increase ! glory
 ( 8  h\se & e/abli% peace 9 8 c\ntry2  
if he be a subject1 he %all  rise & make
 8 family happy & honor$4 ,b "o mu/     
p]sev]e 9  self-control1 o!rwise !re c  
be no su* results4 ,if1 = in/ance1  "s  
"o has to practise self-control 9 t5    
cases to obta9 a kn[n  result1 & he is  
able to control himself n9e times1 b on 
! t5?  8 /r5g? leaves him1 !n all 8     
previ\s ex]tions 7 9 va94  ,_m p :o     
control !mselves = a long "t f9ally lose
  pati5ce1 ?9k+ x impossible to protract
 _! ma/]y4 ,x might  happ5 t "s p]son   
might n really be /rong en\gh1 b 9 mo/  

cases ,i %\ld ?9k x a p]son's own fault 
if he =feits 9 su* a  case 8 life1 8    
position1 or 8 ?rone4 ,some?+ l ?is is  
se5  9 %oot+ ) ! b[4 ,if "o has tak5 !  
"r position &  attitude ( ! body1 if "o 
has direct$ ! weapon rightly & firmly  &
 has ! aim well 9 ! eye1 b at ! mom5t ( 
dis*>ge ! h&  is un/eady1 ! %ot goes    
wrong1 & all ?is tr\ble 0 9 va94 ,s     
also is self-comm& wor?less & useless if
 x be n p]sev]$ 9 to  ! end4    ,i "k ( 
only "o man until n[ 9 our hi/ory ^:    
self-control  rea*$ ?is degree (        
p]fection1 & t is ,masa%ige             
,kusunoki4#ai ,a  man1 on ! contr>y1 :o 
_h no self-comm& & confess$ t he _h  n  
himself 9 8 own p[] 0 ,katsuyori        
,tak$a2#bj h5ce 8 :ole  life 0 a tissue 
( failures1 & he end$ by los+ 8 p[] & 8 
life4 ,nobunaga ,oda#ba 0 c]ta9ly a     
di/+ui%$ lead] ( armies1  m>k$ = 8      
c\rage & g5]osity1 & possess+ 9 a high  
degree  all faculties ne$$ = a good     
rul]2 & yet 8 lack ( self-control       
br\ght on t he 0 murd]$ by 8 reta9]     

,mitsuhide4 ,hideyo%i#bb  0 g5]\s1      
%rewd1 valiant1 & almo/ p]fect 9        
self-control2 h5ce  he rose )9 tw5ty    
ye>s f no?+ to be ! rul] ( ! entire     
,japanese ,empire4 ,b 8 g5]osity w5t    
beyond rightful limits4  ,g5]osity is a 
noble virtue1 b x mu/ fit !             
circum/ances4  ,pres5ts & gifts %\ld n  
repres5t mu* ov] ! value ( ! good  de$  
^: rew>d !y are meant to be2 b ,hideyo%i
 ov]-e/imat$  ! m]its ( ^? to :om he ow$
 8 position & behav$ ) m  ?an           
g5]osity--) prodigality4    ,! way to   
obta9 dom9ation & to keep x p]man5tly is
 n ?r\gh  prodigality1 b ?r\gh close    
economy4 ,inf]iors (t5 ?9k t !  ma/]    
appe>s /range 9 comp>ison ) o!r         
sov]eigns :o toss  ab\t pres5ts2 b      
hi/ory tea*es t j ! wise/ rul]s h  be5  
accu/om$ to make few pres5ts1 & h avoid$
 all luxury4    ,a ma/] desir+ good &   
ob$i5t s]vants %\ld be ready )          
admonition at e mi/ake committ$4 ,my    
ef=ts s9ce y\? h be5  cont9ually direct$
 to ?is1 :]e= my s]vants h /ripp$ (f all

  _! faults4 ,9 any case "o ought n to  
give up hope too soon1 & at  once decide
 t somebody is incorrigible4 ,if 9 "o's 
admonition !  talk is only ab\t ! fault 
committ$1 ! result w be t !  p]son      
admoni%$ acquires an unju/ av]sion to 8 
ma/]2 & ev5  s]vants :o _h s]v$         
dilig5tly be=e become c>eless &         
discont5t$2 ! cause ( ?is is to be s\ght
 9 ! mann] ( !  admonition4 ,if ?is is  
to h any result1 ! foll[+ me?od %\ld  be
 employ$3 summon ! culprit to "o's      
pres5ce1 & dismiss f !  room e "o else b
 "o :o is to play ! "p ( ! m$iator4  ,!n
 speak ) mild] words ?an usual ab\t !   
=m] s]vices ( !  subord9ate1 make "s    
recognition ( 8 zeal1 bo? =m] & pres5t2 
9 %ort1 try to make him z happy z       
possible4 ,!reupon %[ him )  due reg>d 8
 faults1 & expla9 to him t y did n      
expect !m  ( su* an att5tive subject1 & 
t y mu/ hope t 9 ! future  y w ne$ no m 
to blame2 inde$1 t all ! m y reckon  ^u 
8 =m] solicitude & loyalty4 ,su* an     
admonition br+s any  "o 9 fault to      

yield1 to recognize 8 own defects1 & to 
correct  himself4 ,! rul] ( ! h\se %\ld 
make x 8 *ief aim to make  useful p ( 8 
s]vants1 9 :i* he c succe$ only by      
res5t+  e fault1 ev5 if committ$ by a   
p]son ( ! l[e/ position4 ,x  %\ld ev5 be
 difficult = ! clev]e/ s]vants to obta9 
! full  approbation ( ! ma/]4 ,h[ mu* m 
%\ld ?is be ! case )  ! av]age p]son1   
conc]n+ :om ! ma/] %\ld consid] x 8     
task to remove imp]fections z f> z      
possible4 ,he is to blame if  (t5] ?an  
is necess>y faults come ab\t4 ,f ! mann]
 ( ^?  ab\t him "o c easily draw a      
conclusion z to ! mann] ( !  ma/]4      
,!re=e1 he %\ld keep a wat*ful eye ^u ! 
mann] ( 8  att5dants1 especially t ^?   
:om he loves & di/+ui%es s]ve  z an     
example to ! o!r inf]iors1 :e!r !y be   
good or bad4  ,fur!r ?an ?is1 x is v    
desirable t ! ma/] %\ld be q  acqua9t$ )
 ! circum/ances ( 8 s]vants2 & t1 on !  
contr>y1 ^! %\ld get to "k z little z   
possible ab\t 8  affairs4    ,x is n    
favorable to heal? t "o %\ld give "o's  

self up  entirely to indulg5ce 9 "t (   
peace4 ,if "o has no?+ to d  habitually1
 _m bad ?+s usually come up4 ,!re=e1 =  
ea* mom5t  f wak+ to go+ to sleep "o    
%\ld appo9t a task1 & live              
consci5ti\sly f day to day accord+ to   
?is plan4 ,fur!r1 "o  %\ld n eat only   
savory food1 = "o becomes tir$ ( t 9 "t4
  ,on ord9>y days "o %\ld take z simple 
a meal z possible2 = x is  en\gh1 ,i    
believe1 to eat two or ?ree times a mon?
 some?+  especially savory4    ,= sev]al
 ye>s ,i repeat my pray]s e day #fj1jjj 
times4 ,_m  consid] ?is exagg]at$ on !  
"p ( s old a man1 & !y advise  me to    
dim9i% some:at ! numb]4 ,x w\ld inde$ be
 a relief = me  c\ld ,i foll[ ?is       
advice2 b because ,i 0 born 9 times (   
w>1 &  z a comm&] ,i h caus$ ! dea? ( _m
 m51 ,i %\ld l to d  p5ance 9 my pray]s 
= my _m s9s1 & h5ce ,i keep to my old   
habit4 ,beyond ?is1 ! quiet & idle life 
:i* ,i mu/ n[ lead is  h>d to be>1      
because f my y\? ,i nev] _h an h\r (    
re/1 b 0  always ov]lad5 ) "w1 & z ,i c 

no m att5d to o!r  bus9ess1 s mu/ ,i    
make "w = myself 9 my pray]s4 ,i rise   
e>ly  e morn+1 & ,i g to b$ 9 ! ev5+ n v
 e>ly1 9  consequ5ce ( :i* ,i h a v good
 dige/ion1 & believe t ,i  %\ld be      
?ankful = ?is to my pray]s4 ,an old     
prov]b says1 ,if "o  wi%es to "k ! mann]
 ( life ( a man1 ask him if he h a      
regul>  "t = ris+ & = go+ to sleep1 & if
 he c or _c be  mod]ate 9 eat+ & dr9k+4 
,t is also my way ( look+ at x4         
,c\rage is a virtue :i* e man %\ld      
possess2 b too mu* c\rage  c easily     
become dang]\s1 z x s$uces u v (t5 to   
desire  obta9+ ev]y?+ by =ce2 & !n ?+s g
 ill ) u g5]ally4  ,rightly says !      
prov]b3 a h>d ?+ is easily brok54 ,!re=e
 "o  obta9s bett] results ?r\gh g5tl5ess
 & g5]osity ?an by  vehem5ce &          
recklessness4 ,advise y\r att5dants 9   
?is mann] t  !y may always h a compos$  
demeanor2 & s tea* y\r *ildr5  t !y     
always %[ due respect to e memb] ( !    
family4    ,give ?is lett] to ,kuni1 &  
impress ^u him t he realize & lay  to   

he>t its cont5ts4    ,f9ally1 my be/    
greet+s to all4    ,?is #be? ( ,febru>y4
    ,n4,b4--,i beg y once m to pay      
att5tion to ,kuni4 ,if y br+ him up     
accord+ to my advice ,i %all h no reason
 = anxiety ab\t 8  future4         #ad  
,! *ild-"n ( ,iymits4         #ae ,!    
*ild-"n ( ! bro!r ( ,iymits4         #af
 ,saburo 0 ! elde/ son ( ,iyyas4        
#ag ,hon?uynia cordata         #ah ,may 
be describ$ z a =m ( ! game ( *eck]s4   
#ai ,masa%ige 7fir/ half ( f\rte5?      
c5tury71 ! type (       unsw]v+ loyalty 
to ! ?rone4 ,x is int]e/+ to note       
,iyyas's e/imate ( a h]o :o di$ defeat$1
 & ^: :ole       en]gy _h be5 devot$ to 
prev5t+ ! control ( ! ,empire by       !
 %oguns1 ( :om ,iyyas is ! mo/ complete 
type4         #bj ,tak$a1 son ( ,tak$a  
,%+51 pr9ce ( ,kai1 committ$            
suicide at ,t5mokuzan4 ,! /ory ( 8      
fa!r's ecc5tric life is       too long  
to be giv5 "h4 ,he 0 at times an ally1  
at times an       enemy ( ,iyyas4       
#ba ,nobunaga1 ,iyyas's =m] lead]4      

#bb ,hideyo%i1 8 o!r g5]al & p>tn]4     
,transcrib]'s ,notes3      ,italic text 
is d5ot$ by und]scores4    ,obvi\s      
typographical errors 7 repair$1 z li/$  
bel[4 ,o!r  app>5t inconsi/5cies or     
errors h be5 reta9$1 su* z ar*aic       
spell+s1 inconsi/5t hyph5ation &        
application ( acc5ts4    ,orig9al       
pag9ation ma9ta9$ z closely z possible1 
) ^!  exceptions3      - ,illu/rations  
mov$ 9 betwe5 p>agraphs4      - ,blank  
pages :i* 7 c\nt$ 9 orig9al page c\nt1 7
 delet$4    ,page #ac3 correct$ ,ori5al 
to ,ori5tal4    ,page #acc3 reta9$      
orig9al spell+ ( scorc]]s4    ,page     
#bjd3 replac$ n = no2 9 typo3 tone :i*  
c\ld no be  mat*$4