,,! ,,h]itage ,,( ,,dress ,illu/ration3 ,,v ,,e>ly ,,man ,,9 ,,java4 7,*apt] ,,ii47 ,,plate ,i4 ,,! ,,h]itage ,,( ,,dress ,,be+ ,,notes ,,on ,,! ,,hi/ory ,,& ,,evolution ,,( ,,clo!s ,,by ,,wilfr$ ,,m>k ,,webb ,,fell[ ,,( ,,! ,,l9nean ,,society ,,( ,,london ,,curator ,,( ,,eton ,,college ,,museum ,,) ,,elev5 ,,plates ,,& ,,"o ,,hundr$ ,,& ,,sixty-,,n9e ,,figures ,,9 ,,! ,,text ,,london ,e4 ,,grant ,,ri*>ds #aijg ,,to ,,my ,,wife ,,hilda ,e4 ,,webb ,,preface ,x w\ld be difficult to f9d a subject ( m univ]sal int]e/ ?an t ( dress1 & ho/s ( books h be5 writt5 :i* deal ) ! attire t has be5 adopt$ at diff]5t times & by v>i\s nations or social classes4 ,! ornam5tal & arti/ic sides ( ! "q h also receiv$ mu* consid]ation1 b ! volumes t h appe>$ s]ve *iefly z works ( ref]5ce4 ,! pres5t book aims at be+ ( m imm$iate int]e/ & usefulness2 x />ts ) ?+s z !y are1 & is really a popul> contribution to ! natural hi/ory ( man4 ,on all sides ! advantages ( obs]vation & ! ne$ = ! nature-/udy me?od 9 education are be+ rightly urg$1 b !re is a t5d5cy to n>r[ ! purview4 ,any?+ 9 our environm5t is wor?y ( notice1 & ?\gh att5tion is well direct$ t[>ds t :i* is lea/ artificial1 we %\ld n leave man & 8 works altoge!r on "o side4 ,!re is mat]ial = obs]vation1 rese>*1 & d$uction1 ev5 9 a b[l] hat & a cut-away coat4 ,"o ( ! pleasante/ features 9 connection ) ! mak+ ( ?is book has be5 ! k9d & ready help :i* ,i h receiv$ f all sides4 ,"h & !re ?r\gh\t ! text ! names ( fri5ds & correspond5ts :o h giv5 _! assi/ance h be5 m5tion$4 ,to ^! ,i (f] my he>ty ?anks1 z well z to ! foll[+1 :o ) sugge/ions1 in=mation1 or ) mat]ial = illu/rations1 h contribut$ 9 no small way to ! int]e/ ( ! book3 ,messrs4 ,f[nes ,bro!rs ,company1 ,mr4 ,allan ,a4 ,hooke1 ,mr4 ,w4 ,s4 ,w>d1 ,mr4 ,k>l1 ( ,messrs4 ,na?an ,company1 ,messrs4 ,tress ,company1 ,messrs4 ,l9coln ,b5nett1 ,mr4 ,m4 ,d4 ,hill1 ! ,rev4 ,a4 ,w4 ,upcott1 ,head ,ma/] ( ,*ri/'s ,hospital1 ,miss ,cl>k1 ,miss ,hodgson1 ! ,rev4 ,r4 ,a%+ton ,bull51 ,mr4 ,h5ry ,mill]1 ( ! ,*ur* ,association1 ,mr4 ,rav5scr(t1 ( ,messrs4 ,ede ,sons ,rav5scr(t1 ,mr4 ,paley ,baildon1 ,mr4 ,george ,h]tslet1 ( ! ,"l ,*amb]la9's ,(fice1 ,messrs4 ,wilk9son ,company1 ,mr4 ,c4 ,m4 ,mhlb]g1 ,mr4 ,w4 ,s4 ,p>k]1 ( ,messrs4 ,deb5hams1 ,ltd41 ,capt4 ,h4 ,tr5*1 ,major ,j4 ,w4 ,mallet1 ( ! ,army & ,navy ,gazette1 ,mr4 ,basil ,:ite1 ( ,messrs4 ,hawkes ,company1 ,mr4 ,w4 ,h4 ,jesson1 ,messrs4 ,s\t] ,company1 ,mr4 ,william ,lawr5ce1 ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg1 ,dr4 ,j4 ,cantlie1 & ! ,rt4 ,hon4 ,visc\ntess ,h>b]ton4 ,a glance at ! bibliography1 :i* is giv5 on pages #cfc-g1 w %[ ! pr9cipal books & pap]s to :i* ref]5ce has be5 made4 ,9 connection ) ! illu/rations1 special ?anks mu/ be giv5 to ,monsieur ,maurice ,s&1 ! ,editor ( ! ,review ( ! ,univ]sity ( ,brussels1 = 8 k9d p]mission to reproduce a numb] ( ! figures us$ to illu/rate a translation ( ,sir ,george ,d>w9's article4 ,^! are ,figures #ad1 #ag1 #ah1 #ai1 #ba1 #bb1 #bc1 #bf1 #bg1 #cj1 #ca1 #cc1 #df1 #dh1 #fb1 #fc1 & #hb4 ,ackn[l$gm5ts are due to ,mr4 ,/4 ,john ,hope = ,figures #hf-h1 to ,messrs4 ,a4 ,c4 ,black = ,figures #abc & #abd & #acb & #acc1 & to ,messrs4 ,prewett ,co4 = ,figures #aaa & #aab4 ,= ! orig9al ( ,plate ,,ii1 ,i am indebt$ to ! k9dness ( ,capta9 ,r4 ,=d1 ( ,plate ,,iii to ,mr4 ,h5ry ,/ev5s2 ,plate ,,iv has be5 tak5 f a brass rubb+ 9 ,rugby ,s*ool ,museum1 ?r\gh ! k9d (fices ( ,mr4 ,j4 ,m4 ,h>dwi*4 ,i h to ?ank ,mr4 ,r4 ,bamb] = ! orig9al ( ,plate ,,viii1 :i* 0 obta9$ ?r\gh 8 in/rum5tality4 ,figure ,b ( ,plate ,,ix 0 k9dly contribut$ by ! ,rev4 ,a4 ,w4 ,upcott1 ,head ,ma/] ( ,*ri/'s ,hospital1 & ,figures ,b & ,c on ,plate ,x 7 copi$ f ,moseley's ,voyage ( ! ',*all5g]1' by ! k9d p]mission ( ,mr4 ,john ,murray1 :ile ,figure ,d is due to ! c\rtesy ( ,g5]al ,robley4 ,plate ,,xi is repr9t$ f ,! ,reliqu>y1 by ! k9d p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,bemrose & ,sons1 & ! s\rce ( o!r illu/rations is ackn[l$g$ b5ea? !m1 :ile ! classic collection ( pictures :i* 7 br\ght toge!r by ! late ,mr4 ,f4 ,w4 ,fairholt to illu/rate 8 ,co/ume 9 ,engl& has prov$1 z w be se51 ( ! utmo/ s]vice4 ,9 conclusion1 ,i h mu* pleasure 9 call+ att5tion to ! "t & c>e :i* ,mr4 ,w4 ,j4 ,webb has exp5d$ ^u ! figures1 :i* are a feature ( ! book2 & ,i mu/ m5tion ! will+ help :i* ,i h be5 af=d$ 9 a numb] ( details by ,miss ,amy ,a/bury & ,mr4 ,b]n>d ,weav]4 ,,wilfr$ ,,m>k ,,webb4 ,,od/ock1 ,,hanwell1 ,novemb]1 #aijg4 ,,cont5ts ,i ,,! ,,?rall ,,( ,,dress ,,page ,! pr9ciples ( evolution appli$ to clo!s #a ,,ii ,,! ,,orig9 ,,( ,,dress #f ,,iii ,,developm5t ,,( ,,! ,,mod]n ,,coat ,! ance/ral %awl--,problematical buttons #ae ,,iv ,,buttons ,,z ,,*ronicles ,episodes 9 ! lat] hi/ory ( ! coat & cuffs #be ,v ,,coll>s ,,& ,,b&s ,nicks 9 coat lapels--,! :y & :]e=e ( ! :ite %irt front #da ,,vi ,,ve/iges ,,9 ,,! ,,hat ,h[ hats 7 evolv$--,:y plumes are on ! left side--,! gr[? ( ! busby--,helmets & cock$ hats #di ,,vii ,,%oes ,,& ,,/ock+s ,e>ly foot-ge>--,! orig9 ( ! clock--,a mod]n imitation ( tattoo+--,gaily col\r$ g>t]s #fb ,,viii ,,petticoats ,,& ,,tr\s]s ,! belt$ plaid & kilt--,e>ly skirts--,! antiquity ( tr\s]s--,tr\s] /ripes #gb ,,ix ,,coats ,,( ,,arms ,signet r+s--,armorial be>+s--,escut*eons--,cre/s--,badges #hc ,x ,,gloves ,,& ,,mitt5s ,orig9 ( ! baby's glove--,f\r*ettes--,! po9ts on ! backs ( gloves #id ,,xi ,,tags1 ,,p9s1 ,,& ,,baldrics ,laces--,! evolution & vag>ies ( ! safety-p9--,primitive me?ods ( c>ry+ burd5s z illu/rat$ by muff-*a9s1 baldrics1 & yokes #ajj ,,xii ,,ornam5ts ,primitive necklaces--,f+] r+s--,! orig9 ( ! hair comb--,buttons--,/uds--,fl[]s--,fea!rs-- ,amulets #aaa ,,xiii ,,hair ,,dress+ ,head %av+--,wigs t are /ill worn--,roman curls & fr+es #abf ,,xiv ,,special ,,dresses ,fa%ions kept up by c]emonies--,survivals 9 special co/ume--,fl[+ g>m5ts #ace ,,xv ,,s]vants' ,,dress ,! prototypes ( liv]ies--,rem9isc5ces ( ,george ,,ii & ,george ,,iii--,orig9 ( ! page-boy's buttons--,! jockey cap--,aprons #aci ,,xvi ,,cockades ,! cockade a deg5]at$ *ap]on--,! v>ieties ( ! cockade--,cockade we>]s #aeb ,,xvii ,,*ildr5',s ,,dress ,survivals 9 *ildr5's dress--,special s*ool co/umes--,! blue-coat boy--,public s*ool boys--,adoption ( special dress at girls' s*ools #afb ,,xviii ,,w$d+ ,,g>m5ts ,! veil--,bridesmaids & brib]y--,old %oes--,orange blossom #age ,,xix ,,m\rn+ ,col\rs associat$ ) m\rn+--,wid[s' we$s--,p]5nial m\rn+ #aha ,,xx ,,co/ume ,,connect$ ,,) ,,religion ,! surplice & ! clo?--,! civil orig9 ( ve/m5ts--,f9e ve/m5ts--,processional ve/m5ts1 s call$--,nuns' dress--,! *ok] #ahd ,,xxi ,,sunday ,,clo!s ,! significance ( ,sunday clo!s--,! we>+ ( hats 9 *ur* by ladies #bje ,,xxii ,,academical ,,dress ,g[ns & hang+ sleeves--,! =]unn] ( ! hood--,! orig9 ( ! doctor's hat--,! evolution ( ! mort>-bo>d #bjh ,,xxiii ,,legal ,,dress ,ve/iges ( ! coif--,hoods & g[ns--,signs ( m\rn+ #bae ,,xxiv ,,/ate ,,& ,,c\rt ,,attire ,coronation dress--,p>liam5t>y robes--,mi/akes 9 ,c\rt dress--,ve/iges ( ! wig & ( ! *ap]on--,c\rt c>ds #bba ,,xxv ,,survivals ,,9 ,,milit>y ,,uni=ms ,arm\r--,prick]s = fl9t locks--,=age cords--,rem9isc5ces ( gallantry--,regim5tal badges--,c\rt%ip col\rs #bcc ,,xxvi ,,naval ,,uni=m ,suppos$ survivals--,petticoats & wide bree*es #bea ,,xxvii ,,! ,,co/ume ,,( ,,puppets ,pun* & ,judy--,fa%ion dolls--,dolls 9 swaddl+ clo!s--,! ,egyptian %abbies #bec ,,xxviii ,,! ,,cl[n ,,& ,,pa9t+ ,,! ,,body ,! cl[n's dress--,savage pa9t+ & survivals ( x--,tattoo+--,pat*es & false complexions--,masks #bfi ,,xxix ,,/age ,,co/umes ,! h>lequ91 pantaloon1 columb9e1 & acrobat #bhb ,,xxx ,,nightdress ,b&s on nightg[ns--,nightcaps--,night attire worn 9 ! /reets #bhg ,,xxxi ,,! ,,dress ,,( ,,animals ,natural repres5tatives ( clo!s--,horse trapp+s--,amulets on h>ness--,dogs' disguises--,fa%ions 9 ! =m ( animals #bia ,,xxxii ,,col\r ,importance ( col\r--,in/9ctive love ( bright hues--,desirability ( col\r$ clo!s & gay sc5es--,col\r & complexion #cje ,,xxxiii ,,patt]ns ,anci5t designs--,*ecks & t>tans--,p>ti-col\r$ clo!s--,evolution ( ornam5tation #caa ,,xxxiv ,,impressions ,,to ,,be ,,ga9$ ,,f ,,dress ,clues f clo!s--,individuality n disguis$ by !m--,mod]n dress ( o!r c\ntries--,significance ( clo!s #cae ,,xxxv ,,! ,,effect ,,( ,,clo!s ,,^u ,,! ,,individual ,! orig9 ( /ays--,tight lac+ no new ?+--,its effects--,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg on ! ne$ = support--,! ideal foot--,skull de=mities--,padd+ #cbb ,,xxxvi ,,fur!r ,,effects ,,( ,,clo!s ,,on ,,! ,,individual ,m5tal effects ( diff]5t clo!s--,pref]5ces ( girls = c]ta9 articles ( dress--,movem5ts t dep5d ^u ! pres5ce or abs5ce ( clo!s #cci ,,xxxvii ,,! ,,rise ,,& ,,fall ,,( ,,fa%ions ,reason :y fa%ions are foll[$--,gay clo!s se5 :5 p]iods ( depression are ov]--,condemnation ( fa%ions by ! cl]gy--,quak]s--,sumptu>y laws--,! kill+ ( fa%ions #cdc ,,xxxviii ,,dress ,,re=m ,clo!s to be avoid$--,ne$ = w>m] g>m5ts--,rational dress = wom5 #ced ,,conclusion #cfb ,,bibliography #cfc ,,index #cfi ,,li/ ,,( ,,plates ,,plate ,,fac+ ,,page ,i4 ,v e>ly man 9 ,java4 ,illu/rat+ ! rem>ks 9 ,*apt] ,,ii1 pages #f & #g ,frontispiece ,,ii4 ,a woman & a wit*-doctor ( ,c5tral ,africa1 %[+ ! "p t ornam5ts may play ev5 :5 clo?+ is ( ! scantie/4 7,f a photograph by ,capta9 ,=d7 #i ,,iii4 ,! silk ve/ worn by ,*>les ,i on ! scaffold4 ,illu/rat+ ! sleev$ tunic op5+ = a %ort di/ance d[n ! front4 7,f a photograph by ,mr4 ,h5ry ,/ev5s7 #ah ,,iv4 ,reproduction ( a brass to ,john ,br&on & 8 two wives 9 ! ,*ur* ( ,/4 ,m>y1 ,k+'s ,lynn4 ,date1 #acfd4 ,on ! male figure1 cont9u\s r[s ( buttons run f ! wri/ to ! elb[ ( ! "u-ve/4 ,! wom5 we> ! wimple & gorget or ?roat clo? #ch ,v4 ,a ,siamese ,pr9cess we>+ tr\s]s #ha ,,vi4 ,two ,padaung wom51 %[+ ! num]\s metal coll>s :i* !y we> r\nd _! necks #aad ,,vii4 ,me?ods ( hairdress+1 illu/rat$ by ,romano-,egyptian portrait models 9 ! ,my]s ,collection1 ,eton ,college ,museum4 7,f photographs by ,wilfr$ ,m>k ,webb7 #abi ,,viii4 ,a b>ge girl1 %[+ ! co/ume worn on ! canals4 7,f a photograph by ,wakefield ,br5t=d7 #aej ,,ix4 ,fig4 ,a4 ,! cap worn by ! s*ol>s ( ,*ri/'s ,hospital until ! middle ( ! n9ete5? c5tury4 ,fig4 ,b4 ,a s*ol> ( ,*ri/'s ,hospital4 7,by ! c\rtesy ( ! ,rev4 ,a4 ,w4 ,upcott1 ,m4,a41 ,head ,ma/] ( ,*ri/'s ,hospital7 #afg ,x4 ,fig4 ,a4 ,! head ( a cl[n1 %[+ ! pa9t$ face1 ! ruff1 & ! ,elizabe?an me?od ( do+ ! hair4 ,fig4 ,b4 ,! face ( a ,japanese actor 7aft] ,moseley1 by ! c\rtesy ( ,mr4 ,john ,murray74 ,fig4 ,c4 ,! pa9t$ face ( a pap] figure :i* is burn$ at ,*9ese fun]als 7aft] ,moseley1 by ! c\rtesy ( ,mr4 ,john ,murray74 ,fig4 ,d4 ,! tattoo$ head ( a ,moori% *ief4 7,by ! c\rtesy ( ,g5]al ,robley7 #bgj ,,xi4 ,wood5 /ay busks4 ,^! incid5tally %[ survivals ( primitive ornam5t4 ,f ,! ,reliqu>y1 by k9d p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,bemrose ,sons1 ,ltd4 #cbf ,,li/ ,,( ,,figures ,,fig4 ,,page #a4 ,draw+ ( a woman engrav$ by a cave man #i #b4 ,sket* %[+ ! developm5t ( ! tunic4 ,9 ?is /age x has no arms #ag #c4 ,diagram %[+ ! way 9 :i* a sleev$ tunic is d]iv$ f ! %awl #ah #d4 ,a smock frock #ai #e4 ,jacket ( a woman1 made 9 "o piece4 ,bronze /age ( culture 7aft] ,worsaae7 #ai #f4 ,man's dress %[+ buttons on ! "r side #bj #g4 ,woman's dress %[+ buttons on ! left side #ba #h4 ,diagram %[+ h[ a man does up a button4 ,fir/ /age #bc #i4 ,diagram %[+ h[ a man does up a button4 ,second /age #bc #aj4 ,diagram %[+ h[ a woman does up a button4 ,fir/ /age #bc #aa4 ,diagram %[+ h[ a woman does up a button4 ,second /age #bc #ab4 ,! buttons on ! back ( a policeman's great-coat #bf #ac4 ,! buttons t close ! slit up ! back ( an ul/] #bg #ad4 ,a back view ( a sev5te5?-c5tury coat %[+ ! buttons & buttonholes #bh #ae4 ,! tab & buttons on ! back ( a soldi]'s great-coat :i* make a tempor>y wai/ #bi #af4 ,! buttons & tab on a tramway driv]'s coat #ca #ag4 ,an eighte5?-c5tury coat ) side buttons & tab #ca #ah4 ,side tabs & buttons at ! back 7aft] ,rac9et7 #ca #ai4 ,a coat worn at ! end ( ! sev5te5? c5tury 7aft] ,h4 ,bonn>t7 #cb #bj4 ,a mod]n coat ) side pockets #cb #ba4 ,a footman's coat1 mod]n1 ) ve/igial pocket flaps #cc #bb4 ,coat skirts button$ back 7aft] ,hog>?7 #cc #bc4 ,a coat ) ! skirts button$ back & %[+ ! l9+ #cd #bd4 ,a dress coat ) skirts cut away #cd #be4 ,a mod]n coat cuff ) buttons #ce #bf4 ,turn$-back cuff1 end ( sev5te5? c5tury 7aft] ,bonn>t7 #ce #bg4 ,a coat sleeve 7aft] ,hog>?7 ) horizontal r[ ( buttons #cf #bh4 ,sleeve ( a coat ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 reput$ to h be5 worn by ,*>les ,i #cf #bi4 ,! turn$-back cuff ( an ov]coat1 mod]n #cg #cj4 ,a sleeve ) v]tical buttons & a turn$-back cuff z well 7f a uni=m1 aft] ,hog>?7 #cg #ca4 ,! uni=m ( a coa/gu>d (fic] ( #agge 7aft] ,rac9et7 #ci #cb4 ,! nicks 9 ! coat & wai/coat #da #cc4 ,a /age :5 ! nick 0 useful 7,luci5 ,bonap>te1 aft] ,paul ,lacroix7 #db #cd4 ,! too?pick on a dress coat #dc #ce4 ,mod]n b&s #de #cf4 ,a blue-coat boy's b&s #de #cg4 ,a *ori/] ( ,jesus ,college1 ,cambridge1 %[+ ! coll> worn until rec5tly4 7,f a photograph1 by ! c\rtesy ( ,mr4 ,h4 ,au/9 ,:eaton7 #de #ch4 ,a /age 9 ! r$uction ( b&s 7portrait ( ,jan ,/e5 f ! ,illu/rat$ ,magaz9e ( ,art7 #df #ci4 ,full-siz$ b&s 7portrait ( ,john ,pym f ! ,illu/rat$ ,magaz9e ( ,art7 #df #dj4 ,a mod]n b&box1 n[ us$ = hats #dg #da4 ,b&s t survive at ! pres5t day #dg #db4 ,! turban ( a ,jewi% prie/ 7aft] ,kitto7 comp>$ ) ! dome ( ! ,mosque ( ,om> #ej #dc4 ,a ,siamese head-dress & a ,pra ,pang or votive spire 7aft] ,p4 ,a4 ,?ompson7 #ea #dd4 ,a ,go?ic spire 7,/4 ,/eph5s1 ,ca57 comp>$ ) ! h5n9 7! latt] aft] ,fairholt7 #ea #de4 ,b& ) /ream]s fa/5+ on ! head-dress ( an ,egyptian woman4 ,f a figure ( ! ,six? ,dyna/y1 #cejj ,b4,c4 #eb #df4 ,a lady's head-dress conf9$ ) a fillet1 f\rte5? c5tury 7aft] ,viollet le ,duc7 #eb #dg4 ,a sailor hat ) b& & /ream]s #ec #dh4 ,a twelf?-c5tury head-dress ) /ream]s1 f a ,,ms4 7aft] ,viollet le ,duc7 #ec #di4 ,a mod]n ,scot* cap ) /ream]s #ed #ej4 ,a mitre ( ! ,see ( ,durham %[+ ! /r+s 7aft] ,mill+ton7 #ed #ea4 ,small ve/igial b[ ( ribbon 9 a mod]n hat #ee #eb4 ,a hat ) ! rema9s ( lac+ #ee #ec4 ,a hunt+ hat ) complete lac+ inside #ef #ed4 ,a disc ( lea!r #eg #ee4 ,! disc p]=at$ & ! lace ins]t$ #eg #ef4 ,! lace tight5$ to =m a cr[n #eg #eg4 ,! ends ( ! lace ti$ z a b[ inside #eg #eh4 ,a b[ fa/5$ to ! l9+ ( a lady's hat #eh #ei4 ,plumes on ! left side #eh #fj4 ,! r$ ,hung>ian cap1 :i* 0 ! =]unn] ( ! busby #ei #fa4 ,a busby 7( ! ,hon4 ,artill]y ,company7 9 :i* ! cap is a ve/ige only #ei #fb4 ,a fireman's helmet 7( ! anci5t ,greek type7 #fj #fc4 ,buttons s arrang$ t ! broad brim ( a hat c be fa/5$ to ! cr[n1 ?us =m+ a tempor>y cock 7,hudibras1 aft] ,hog>?7 #fj #fd4 ,a mod]n boot decorat$ ) p]=ations made 9 ! lea!r #fc #fe4 ,an ornam5t$ ,roman %oe1 ( two ?icknesses #fc #ff4 ,a ,roman %oe ( op5-"w lea!r #fc #fg4 ,a hide %oe ( pre-,roman type f ,irel& 7aft] ,fairholt7 #fd #fh4 ,! orig9al top boot ) ! upp] "p tempor>ily turn$ d[n #fe #fi4 ,! mod]n top boot 9 :i* ! upp] "p c no long] be turn$ up #ff #gj4 ,puttees #ff #ga4 ,leg b&ages ( a royal p]sonage at ! end ( ! t5? c5tury 7aft] ,fairholt7 #fg #gb4 ,a /ock+ ) clocks #fh #gc4 ,an embroid]$ /ock+ %[+ ! fur!r evolution ( ! clock 7date #aijj7 #fi #gd4 ,an op5-"w /ock+ ( #aije #fi #ge4 ,a %awl us$ z a kilt by a *iefta9 ( ,d5m>k 9 ! bronze /age ( culture 7aft] ,worsaae7 #gc #gf4 ,a simple dress 9 ! =m ( a petticoat f an ,egyptian figure ( ! ,six? ,dyna/y 7#cejj ,b4,c471 f ! ,my]s collection 9 ,eton ,college ,museum #gd #gg4 ,a ,korean s]vant 7aft] ,h\gh7 #ge #gh4 ,a %ort kilt #gf #gi4 ,a b>b>ian soldi] we>+ *>act]i/ic tr\s]s 7f a dipty* ( ,/4 ,paul1 aft] ,m>riott7 #gh #hj4 ,a ,saxon milit>y man we>+ wide tr\s]s 7f ! ,h>leian ,,ms41 ,no4 #fjc1 aft] ,fairholt7 #gi #ha4 ,a peasant woman ( ,*ampry we>+ tr\s]s #hj #hb4 ,a ,g]man ,huss> ( #ahjh #ha #hc4 ,! cre/ on a mod]n signet r+ #he #hd4 ,sir ,ge(frey ,l\tt]ell & ! ladies ( 8 family1 %[+ ! ext5t to :i* armorial be>+s 7 worn 9 ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,f a psalt]1 made = ,sir ,ge(frey 7aft] ,fairholt7 #he #he4 ,! cre/ & surcoat ( ,h5ry1 fir/ ,duke ( ,lanca/]1 ,a4,d4 #acdg4 ,f ! brass to ,sir ,hugh ,ha/+ at ,elsyng1 ,norfolk 7aft] ,*>les ,b\tell7 #hf #hf4 ,! helmet & cre/ ( ! ,black ,pr9ce4 ,f ,vetu/a ,monum5ta 7aft] ,/4 ,john ,hope7 #hh #hg4 ,! %ield ( ! ,black ,pr9ce4 ,f ,vetu/a ,monum5ta 7aft] ,/4 ,john ,hope7 #hi #hh4 ,! surcoat or jupon ( ! ,black ,pr9ce4 ,f ,vetu/a ,monum5ta 7aft] ,/4 ,john ,hope7 #hi #hi4 ,! po/ilion ( a ,"l ,mayor ( ,london1 we>+ a cre/ ^u 8 cap1 & a coat ( arms ^u 8 sleeve 7copi$ by p]mission f a plate publi%$ by ! ,john ,williamson ,co41 ,ltd47 #ib #ij4 ,a baby's glove )\t sep>ate f+]s #ie #ia4 ,! back ( a wooll5 glove %[+ ! ?ree ve/iges kn[n z po9ts #if #ib4 ,a mod]n kid glove %[+ ! f\r*ettes or pieces betwe5 ! f+]s1 :i* =m ?ree po9t$ ,v's #ig #ic4 ,que5 ,elizabe?'s coronation glove1 %[+ ! /it*+ c>ri$ d[n on to ! back4 7,f a photograph by ! c\rtesy ( ,messrs4 ,f[nes ,bro!rs & ,co47 #ig #id4 ,! glove ( ,anne1 ,que5 ,consort ( ,james ,i1 %[+ ! embroid]y on ! f+]s1 :i* is ! ance/or ( ! mod]n po9ts4 7,f a photograph1 by ! c\rtesy ( ,messrs4 ,f[nes ,bro!rs & ,co47 #ii #ie4 ,a silk lace ) simple metal tags #aja #if4 ,ornam5tal metal tags on a velvet neck ribbon #aja #ig4 ,a simple safety-p9 #ajb #ih4 ,an ,etruscan broo* or fibula1 resembl+ a safety-p94 7,9 ! collection ( ,major ,w4 ,j4 ,my]s 9 ,eton ,college ,museum7 #ajc #ii4 ,! safety-p9 9 ! wai/b& #ajc #ajj4 ,! safety-p9 gr[n l>g] & us$ = fa/5+ on a hat #ajd #aja4 ,a muff-*a9 #aje #ajb4 ,a hawk]1 illu/rat+ ! primitive way ( c>ry+ a burd5 #ajg #ajc4 ,a c\ri]-bag support$ by a baldric #ajg #ajd4 ,an ornam5tal baldric ( ! e>ly fifte5? c5tury4 7,royal ,,ms4 #ae1 ,d4 #e1 aft] ,fairholt7 #ajh #aje4 ,a lady's dress1 %[+ ! "p :i* is call$ a yoke1 & recalls a primitive me?od ( c>ry+ burd5s #aji #ajf4 ,a loom comb f\nd 9 ! ,gla/onbury lake dwell+s 7aft] ,boyd ,dawk9s7 #aah #ajg4 ,a mod]n comb = ! hair #aah #ajh4 ,two /uds ( bronze1 se5 f above & f ! side1 lat] ,bronze ,age 7aft] ,worsaae7 #aai #aji4 ,! fla% ( five black ribbons on ! coll> ( ! ,wel% ,fusili]s4 ,a survival f ! days ( ! pigtail #acd #aaj4 ,! mod]n groom1 %[+ ! belt to :i* ladies clung :5 rid+ on a pillion #adj #aaa4 ,a footman 9 plu% bree*es & ) p[d]$ hair4 ,8 p\t] coat dates f ! reign ( ,george ,,iii4 ,by ! c\rtesy ( ,messrs4 ,f4 ,t4 ,prewett & ,co4 #ada #aab4 ,a %]iff's coa*man ) ! full-skirt$ coat ( ! "t ( ,george ,,ii4 ,by ! c\rtesy ( ,messrs4 ,prewett & ,co4 #adb #aac4 ,! wig-bag 7a survival ( ! bag-wig7 n[ se5 on ! back ( ! coll> ( ! ,"l ,mayor's coa*man #adc #aad4 ,a mod]n page-boy's liv]y #ade #aae4 ,! ,dut* skeleton dress1 fa%ionable = boys 9 #ahbf #ade #aaf4 ,! cockade kn[n z ! l>ge treble1 repres5t+ a survival ( ! *ap]on #aeb #aag4 ,a treble cockade cov]$ ) black clo? = m\rn+4 ,! conc5tric circles w\ld appe> to repres5t ! twi/$ liripipe ( ! *ap]on #aed #aah4 ,treble cockade us$ by ,*elsea p5sion]s #aee #aai4 ,! ,reg5t cockade #aee #abj4 ,royal cockade = /ate occasions #aee #aba4 ,ord9>y ,royal cockade #aee #abb4,two /ages 9 ! evolution ( ! *ap]on4 ,comb9$ hood & cape #aef #abc4;,enl>gem5t ( ! peak ( ! hood to =m ! liripipe4 7,aft] ,cal?rop1 by k9d p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,a4 & ,c4 ,black7 #aef #abd4;,fur!r developm5t ( ! *ap]on4 ,cape & liripipe made into a head-dress t c be alt]$ at w #aeg #abe4;,a *ap]on ready made up1 9 ord] to save tr\ble4 7,aft] ,cal?rop1 by k9d p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,a4 & ,c4 ,black7 #aeg #abf4 ,dress worn by ! girls at ,coombe ,hill ,s*ool1 ,we/]ham4 ,x is a modification ( ! ,d]vi% ,djibah #agb #abg4 ,dress worn by ! girls at ! ,cr(t ,s*ool1 ,betley1 :5 at "w #agc #abh4 ,/4 ,gregory ! ,great ) 8 fa!r ,gordianus1 :o 0 a s5ator1 on 8 "r1 & 8 "m ,sylvia on 8 left4 ,?is %[s ! simil>ity betwe5 ecclesia/ical & civil co/ume 9 e>ly times4 ,f an au!ntic picture 7aft] ,m>riott7 #ahh #abi4 ,a prie/ 9 ! ve/m5ts n[ worn at ! celebration ( ! ,eu*>i/ #aid #acj4 ,! coat ( arms ( ,?omas ,becket1 %[+ an ar*bi%op's pall #aih #aca4 ,! head-dress ( a nun %[+ ! veil & brea/-clo? d]iv$ f ! wimple1 ! cap :i* repres5ts ! *9-clo?1 toge!r ) ! frontal & ! hood #bjc #acb4 ,! head-dress ( a lady ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,ii4 ,! wimple is %[n cov]+ ! *9 & head-b&s 7aft] ,cal?rop7 #bjc #acc4 ,! *9-b& & =ehead /rap aft] ! wimple has be5 remov$ 7aft] ,cal?rop7 #bjc #acd4 ,hang+ sleeve ( ! fifte5? c5tury #bji #ace4 ,! hang+ sleeve ( a ,*ancellor ( ,ox=d ,univ]sity #baa #acf4 ,a college cap or tr5*] #bad #acg4 ,cranm]'s hat1 illu/rat+ a /age 9 ! evolution ( a mort>-bo>d 7aft] ,fairholt7 #bad #ach4 ,! hat ( a bi%op ( ! ,/u>t ,p]iod %[+ a /age at :i* ! /iff5+ n[ se5 9 ! mort>-bo>d 0 becom+ necess>y 7aft] ,fairholt7 #bad #aci4 ,! wig ( a mod]n judge #baf #adj4 ,! ve/ige ( ! coif f ! wig ( a s]jeant-at-law #bag #ada4 ,a b>ri/]'s g[n %[+ ! ve/igial hood & its /ream]4 ,! buttons & braid :i* once tempor>ily loop$ up ! sleeves n[ fix x p]man5tly #bai #adb4 ,a ,yeoman ( ! ,gu>d ( ! pres5t reign #bbd #adc4 ,! wig-bag or fla% f a ,c\rt suit1 %[+ ! rosette held away & display+ ! black silk bag4 ,at ! l[] corn]s ( ! latt] loops are se51 :i* are probably ! rema9s ( ^? ?r\gh :i* a ribbon 0 pass$1 :i* w5t r\nd ! neck & fa/5$ on ! brea/ by a broo* #bbi #add4 ,! hood f ! mantle ( a ,knight ( ! ,g>t]1 %[+ ! survival ( ! *ap]on & its liripipe #bcj #ade4 ,relic ( *a9 mail on ! %\ld] ( an ,imp]ial ,yeoman #bcc #adf4 ,*a9 mail illu/rat$ by ! brass ( ,sir ,ri*>d de ,trump+ton1 ,a4,d4 #abhi #bcd #adg4 ,a rev]sion 9 milit>y equipm5t4 ,"o ( ,cromwell's ,ironsides 7#afgi71 f a pr9t4 ,a ,cavalryman sket*$ at ,ald]%ot 9 #aija4 ,copi$1 by p]mission1 f ! ,daily ,mail #bcg #adh4 ,! prick]s on ! %\ld]-belt ( a ,huss>1 :i* survive f ! "t ( fl9t-lock muskets #bci #adi4 ,! ,oscan ,pulic9ella ( #agca1 )\t a long nose4 ,! dress is v simil> to t figur$ 9 #afcj 7aft] ,riccoboni7 #bef #aej4 ,! ,calabrian ,giangurgolo ( #agca1 ) ! long nose4 ,! dress is v simil> to t figur$ 9 #afcj 7aft] ,riccoboni7 #beg #aea4 ,an anci5t bronze /atuette ) ! face & features ( ,pun* 7aft] ,ficorroni7 #beh #aeb4 ,a f\rte5?-c5tury puppet-%[ 7f ! ,,ms4 ( ! ,roman d',alex&re7 #bei #aec4 ,pun*1 f ! ,pun* & ,judy ,%[1 %[+ ! ruff & o!r details ( ,elizabe?an co/ume #bfc #aed4 ,judy1 f ! ,pun* & ,judy ,%[1 ) ruff1 mob cap1 & apron #bfc #aee4 ,! ,beadle1 f ! ,pun* & ,judy ,%[ #bfd #aef4 ,! ,doctor1 f ! ,pun* & ,judy ,%[1 ) wig & :ite tie #bfd #aeg4 ,a cl[n1 %[+ a survival ( an ,elizabe?an co/ume #bgj #aeh4 ,! dress ( a mod]n h>lequ9 #bhd #aei4 ,a pantaloon1 %[+ an ,elizabe?an co/ume ( :i* ,v5etian bree*es =m "p #bhe #afj4 ,! b&s t survive on a lady's nightdress #bhi #afa4 ,a woman's nightcap1 /ill worn 9 ,wilt%ire #bhi #afb4 ,a man's nightcap1 f ,ox=d%ire #bij #afc4 ,an ,engli% horse amulet 9 ! =m ( a cresc5t4 ,! flat places ne> ! tips ( ! horns are evid5ce t ! =m is d]iv$ f two bo>s' tusks #bid #afd4 ,an ,engli% horse amulet %[+ bo? ! he>t & ! sun #bif #afe4 ,! c[ry-%ell ornam5ts on ! head ( an (fic]'s *>g] ( ! #aj? ,huss>s4 ,! p5dant recalls t on mules 9 ,pale/9e #bih #aff4 ,c[ry %ells on an ,ea/]n mule1 hang+ l ! p5dant ( ! #aj? ,huss>s #bii #afg4 ,c[ry %ells on ! head-/all ( a camel f ,pale/9e #bii #afh4 ,a ,m]veilleuse 7aft] ,a4 ,robida7 #cde #afi4 ,a mod]n family1 consi/+ ( ! av]age-siz$ "m1 ! tall] daught]1 & ! puny boy 7f a draw+ by ,miss ,audrey ,watson 9 ,physical ,effici5cy1 by ,dr4 ,cantlie1 by k9d p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,putnam's ,sons7 #ceg ,i ,,! ,,?rall ,,( ,,dress ,,! ,,pr9ciples ,,( ,,evolution ,,appli$ ,,to ,,clo!s ,! numb]s 9 ! text ref] to a bibliography at ! end ( ! book ,unluckily1 p]haps1 we are born nak$ & helpless1 b no soon] d we come into ! _w ?an we are provid$ ) body-gu>ds 9 ! %ape ( clo!s4 ,9 consequ5ce1 our social position is made manife/4 ,our vanity is flatt]$ at ! same "t t our mode/y is assur$4 ,on ! o!r h&1 h[ev]1 our sk9 may be *af$1 our hair worn away1 &1 %\ld our equipm5t /rictly foll[ ! dictates ( ! ,goddess ,fa%ion1 our bodies may ev5 be de=m$ & our lives %ort5$4 ,moreov]1 !re are o!r p5alties to be paid2 we are kept w>m 9 summ] z well z 9 w9t]1 ! pur*ase ( our attire may entail ! sp5d+ ( mu* money1 :ile ! m]e donn+ & d(f+ ( our clo!s gives rise to a prodigi\s wa/e ( "t4 ,ev5 tramps h at int]vals to replace ! rags :i* cov] !m1 & :ile1 = all practical purposes1 e "o else takes (f 8 clo!s :5 go+ to b$ & puts !m on aga9 :5 gett+ up1 _m ( ^? :o are at "w 9 ! daytime dress = d9n] 9 ! ev5+4 ,moreov]1 ,society may dem& a fur!r exp5diture ( "t on ! "p ( its memb]s1 & ! rule may be laid d[n t ! high] ! /&+ ( a civiliz$ individual1 ! m (t5 does he *ange 8 g>m5ts4 ,9 fact1 m ?an "o mon>*1 f ! way 9 :i* he appe>s 9 diff]5t uni=ms at v>i\s functions :i* foll[ "o ano!r 9 quick succession1 has be5 lik5$ to ! n[ famili> lightn+ *ange arti/ ( ! music-hall /age4 ,x is ?us q cle> t all ( u are m or less "u ! ?rall ( dress4 ,^?1 !re=e1 :o f9d ! position irksome1 w ga9 solace f ! int]e/+ inve/igations :i* c be made into ! orig9 & developm5t ( co/ume4 ,o!rs1 aga91 ^: clo!s already f9d fav\r 9 _! eyes1 w enjoy look+ at !m f a diff]5t po9t ( view4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 our artificial cov]+s h become s mu* a "p ( our life t "o may p]haps be all[$ to apply ! me?ods ( ! naturali/ to _! consid]ation1 & deal ) !m z if !y 7 "p & p>cel ( ! creature :i* we>s !m4 ,d>w9 e/abli%$ beyond a d\bt#a t ! plants & animals ( to-day are ! direct desc5dants ( old] & (t5 v diff]5t =ms1 & x is ! task & delight ( ! naturali/ to trace _! g5ealogies4 ,mo/ useful sugge/ions may be obta9$ f ! small ve/iges t rema9 9 ! bodies ( pres5t-day creatures1 ( /ructures :i* 9 e>ly times 7 important & useful organs4 ,= in/ance1 if ! sk9 be lift$ f ! head ( a sl[ worm we f9d a ?ird eye1 :i* tells u t once its ance/ors1 l ! giant ,cyclops1 7 able to look out f ! middle ( _! faces4 ,aga91 to take a case :i* applies to ourselves1 & has a melan*oly int]e/ = u1 "o might m5tion ! v]mi=m app5dix4 ,?is is a remnant ( a great sac :i* once 0 useful :5 our ance/ors 7 veget>ians2 n[ x is worse ?an useless1 = x is v liable to become irritat$ & give rise to :at is kn[n z app5dicitis4 ,s long z a qu>t] ( a c5tury ago ,sir ,george ,d>w9 po9t$ out#b t ! great !ory ( evolution e/abli%$ by 8 fa!r c\ld be appli$ ) mu* advantage to ! /udy ( dress1 & x w be se5 z we proce$ t n ! lea/ fasc9at+ "p ( ! subject are ve/iges simil> to ^? :i* we h j describ$1 & :i* h (t5 surviv$ solely = ornam5tal reasons4 ,_m ( ^! are s famili>1 t 9 runn+ ! eye 9 ! ord9>y way ov] a man's usual co/ume1 att5tion w\ld n be drawn to !m4 ,!re is ! b& r\nd ! outside ( 8 hat & ! little b[ inside2 ! nick 9 ! coll> ( 8 coat & ! m or less useless buttons on 8 sleeves & back2 :ile we mu/ n =get ! curi\s ornam5tation on ! toes ( 8 boots1 nor ! cre/ on 8 signet r+4 ,:51 h[ev]1 an indication is giv5 ( ! times & peoples to :i* ^! trivialities c be made to c>ry u back1 int]e/ is ar\s$ to a rem>kable degree4 ,x c also be well ma9ta9$1 = o!r clo!s pres5t simil> qua9t survivals = inve/igation1 :ile ! evolution ( _m individual g>m5ts is wor? foll[+1 & special co/umes h be5 h&$ d[n to ! pres5t day1 practically un*ang$4 ,=tunately1 ! /ud5t ( dress is 9 a mu* bett] position ?an ! naturali/ prop]4 ,! evid5ce available :5 ! hi/ory ( an organism 9 pa/ ages is be+ unravell$1 is v scanty 9 _m cases4 ,sometimes ! fossil rema9s recov]$ f ! e>? are v p]fect & foll[ "o ano!r 9 unbrok5 succession1 b !y usually consi/ m]ely ( ! h>d p>ts ( ! creatures4 ,! individual developm5t ( an organism is also a help1 b :5 ! *anges :i* h tak5 untold ages to p]fect1 are repeat$1 z 9 ! case ( ! *ick5 9 ! egg1 )9 ! space ( a few %ort weeks1 x is n surpris+ t mu* is left out & obscur$4 ,man has exi/$ 9 a civiliz$ condition = a comp>atively %ort "t1 & !re rema9 all k9ds ( records & illu/rations1 n to m5tion actual clo!s !mselves1 :i* c be consult$ or exam9$4 ,moreov]1 primitive m5 9 almo/ e /age ( culture are1 or 7 till q lately1 to be f\nd some:]e 9 ! _w1 & mu* c be glean$ f !m z to ! orig9 & uses ( co/ume4 ,!re is a po9t t may be borne 9 m9d :5 seek+ = curiosities ( clo?+1 & x is t ! m special or c]emonial ! occasion1 ! m anci5t or m primitive ! co/ume :i* is worn4 ,9 ?is connection also x may be m5tion$ t ! dress ( ! ma/] ( "o g5]ation may survive z t ( ! s]vant 9 ano!r4 ,,ii ,,! ,,orig9 ,,( ,,dress ,bo? he & 8 p 7 black z sloes ,= ! region !y liv$ 9 0 torrid1 ,& _! pr9cipal clo!s 7 a r+ ?r\gh ! nose ,& a pat* ( r$ pa9t on ! =ehead4 ,,?omas ,,hood ,,! ,,y\ng]4 ,9 seek+ ! orig9 ( dress we necess>ily assume t once ^u a "t our primitive ance/ors did n we> any clo!s at all4 ,ev5 n[adays1 9 our own c\ntry1 at sports1 9 ! ball-room1 & on ! /age1 ! g>m5ts worn1 or "s ( !m1 may be r$uc$ to ! m9imum t ! rules ( ,society appe> to dem&4 ,!re are1 moreov]1 two reasons :y v e>ly man did n tr\ble to dress3 fir/ ( all1 he 0 cov]$ ) hair l ! majority ( mammals2 &1 secondly1 x is m ?an probable t 8 home 0 )9 ! tropics4 7,see ,plate ,i41 ,frontispiece47 ,! two ideas are q compatible1 = all ! great apes--*impanzee1 orang-utan1 & gorilla--:i* are ! ne>e/ relatives ( man1 h be5 f\nd 9 ! w>m] regions ( ! _w1 & are well suppli$ ) hair4 ,x has long be5 ?\ght t ! cradle ( mank9d is to be look$ = 9 ! s\? ( ,asia1 & x is a /rik+ fact t ( rec5t ye>s ! bones ( ! e>lie/ kn[n creature t c ) c]ta9ty be call$ a man 7,pi!can?ropus erectus7 7 discov]$ 9 ,java4#c ,at ! same "t x appe>s t ,pi!can?ropus1 al?\gh x walk$ erect1 approximat$ m closely to ! apes ?an does any m rec5t human be+1 & 9 mak+ a re/oration ( ! type 9 "q1 "o w\ld feel b\nd to end[ x ) a coat ( hair4 ,?is has s9ce be5 lo/1 &1 accord+ to ,d>w91 ow+ to /hetic reasons1 ! memb]s ( "o sex hav+ *os5 z mates ^? ( ! o!r :o 7 ! lea/ hairy4 ,man also has f\nd 8 way into mo/ p>ts ( ! globe1 b he has n always act$ ) reg>d to dress 9 ! same way 9 simil> climates4 ,! problem1 !re=e1 :i* we h set ourselves to solve1 proves to be less simple ?an x appe>$ at ! outset1 = great use may be made ( clo!s 9 "o cold c\ntry & n 9 ano!r1 :ile !y may be unkn[n 9 c]ta9 p>ts ( ! tropics1 & adopt$ else:]e )9 _! radius4 ,v (t5 :5 x is s\ght to expla9 a matt]1 x is f\nd t ?is c be done 9 two or ?ree diff]5t ways1 & x is q possible t all ( !m may be correct4 ,?is fact may ) advantage be borne 9 m9d :5 seek+ = ! reasons :i* lead to ! adoption ( dress1 = ! fir/ "t1 by any p>ticul> race4 ,p]haps x w help u if we pause = a mom5t to consid] :y clo!s are worn at ! pres5t day4 ,!re is no d\bt b t 9 ! case ( _m g>m5ts _! ornam5tal "*1 real or suppos$1 is ! fir/ consid]ation4 ,o!rs are *os5 *iefly = protection & w>m?1 :ile1 z already indicat$1 ! re/ suffice to satisfy ! claims ( mode/y4 ,al?\gh ! ?ree reasons are n[ intimately comb9$1 x is practically c]ta9 t any "o ( !m is suffici5t to h l$ to ! adoption ( clo!s 9 ! fir/ place1 & z if ^! 7 n en\gh !re may be o!r contribut+1 if n actual causes4 ,we may n[ consid] ^! matt]s 9 detail4 ,x w\ld seem f ! /udy ( mod]n peoples1 :o are /ill 9 a v simple /ate ( civilization1 z well z f "o ( ! e>lie/ draw+s scrat*$ by ! cave-m5 :o 7 contempor>y ) ! mammo? 9 ,france1 t ornam5ts are ! mo/ primitive "p ( dress4 7,see ,figure #a & ,plate ,,ii47 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,woman ,,& ,a ,,wit* ,,doctor ,,( ,,c5tral ,,africa1 ,,%ew+ ,,! ,,"p ,,t ,,ornam5ts ,,may ,,play ,,ev5 ,,:5 ,,clo?+ ,,is ,,( ,,! ,,scantie/4 7,f a photograph by ,capta9 ,=d47 ,,plate ,,ii4 ,g5]ally speak+1 ! m simple ! race1 ! great] is its love ( ornam5t4 ,! cave-man's sket* %[s a woman :o is devoid ( clo?+1 b :o we>s bracelets1 :ile x is said t 9 ! orig9al a necklace c be trac$1 ?\gh ow+ to an injury to ! fragm5t ( bone on :i* ! draw+ 0 made1 ! head ( ! figure has be5 lo/4 ,on ! ,we/ ,coa/ ( ,africa1 :]e clo!s are n a necessity ow+ to ! heat1 bracelets are worn 9 su* numb]s by ! native belles z to cov] a l>ge "p ( ! =e>m1 :ile anklets rise 9 succession ne>ly to ! knee4 7,see ,plate ,,ii47 ,aga91 9 ,new ,gu9ea ! wom5 ( "s tribes :o d n indulge 9 a s+le scrap ( clo?+1 /ill we> ornam5ts on _! heads & r\nd _! necks4 ,illu/ration3 ,,figure #a4--;,draw+ ( a woman engrav$ by a cave-man4 7,modifi$ f ,wilson47 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 some?+ to be advanc$ on behalf ( savages t _c be said = :ite p :o b$iz5 !mselves ) jewell]y1 or b$eck !mselves ) ! fea!rs ( r>e & beautiful birds4 ,unciviliz$ p h no pockets nor safes 9 :i* to keep _! valuables1 & x comes ab\t t ^! take a =m :i* p]mits !m to be worn on ! p]son1 s t _m ( ! objects :i* take ! place ( ornam5ts--su* z tee?1 %ells1 & beads--s]ve z ! curr5cies ( _! own]s4 ,ev5 n[ !re are individuals ( :om x is said t !y put all _! money on _! backs1 b1 un=tunately = !m1 x depreciates sadly 9 value1 & _c be turn$ to acc\nt at a mom5t's notice4 ,fur!rmore1 "o nak$ w>rior is v mu* l ano!r1 & *iefs1 9 ord] t !y may easily be id5tifi$1 h come to we> c]ta9 ornam5ts j z at ! o!r extreme ) reg>d to cov]+1 knights 9 full arm\r c>ri$ cre/s on _! helmets & o!r devices on _! surcoats & %ields4 ,clo!s prop] are ( lat] orig91 &1 z we h already m5tion$1 w\ld only be adopt$ = protective purposes aft] man _h lo/ ! great] "p ( 8 hairy cov]+4 ,x is probable t ?is _h happ5$ be=e ! e>lie/ settl]s arriv$ 9 ?is c\ntry1 al?\gh ! cave-m5 made _! draw+s ( !mselves 9 ! nude1 & x is cont5d$ t ! m>ks on _! bodies are simil> to ^? 9 ! draw+s ( animals & are n m]e attempts at %ad+1 b indicate ! pres5ce ( hair4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 man 0 a hunt] pure & simple1 & 8 clo!s 7 made f ! hairy sk9s ( 8 qu>ry4 ,at ! pres5t "t ! ,eskimos are clo!d 9 ?is way1 & !re is little d\bt b t !y are ! desc5dants ( ! cave-m51 :o made ! /rik+ draw+s to :i* we h already allud$4 ,_! implem5ts1 /ature1 & s =?1 all po9t ?is way1 & ! fact t _! clo!s are m]ely adopt$ z a protection aga9/ ! wea!r1 is %[n by ! fact t !y remove !m altoge!r :5 9 _! huts4 ,we h already said t x does n always foll[ t ev5 :5 ! climate is cold1 complete dress is br\ght into use4 ,:5 ,h4,m4,s4 ,beagle visit$ ,s\? ,am]ica1 "s ( ! ,ti]ra del ,fuegians wore only an ott] sk9 or "s small scrap ab\t z l>ge z a pocket-h&k]*ief4 ,x 0 lac$ across ! brea/ by /r+s1 & 0 %ift$ f side to side accord+ to ! direction ( ! w9d4 ,o!rs1 bo? m5 & wom51 wore no?+4 ,"o ( ! latt]1 :o 0 suckl+ a rec5tly born *ild1 came alongside ! vessel 9 a canoe1 & /ay$ !re1 out ( pure curiosity1 :ile ! sleet fell & ?aw$ on h] nak$ bosom & on ! b>e body ( h] baby4#d ,"s races c make v passable clo!s by hamm]+ ! fibres f ! b>k ( trees into a k9d ( clo?1 :ile :5 m5 took to husb&ry & cultivat$ plants t produce fibres1 !y le>n$ also to sp9 & weave mat]ials f :i* to make _! g>m5ts4 ,! use ( furs has always surviv$ to a great] or less ext5t1 b x is int]e/+ to note t motor+ has caus$ a return to primitive dress z reg>ds ext]nal g>m5ts1 = 9 ord] to )/& ! air :i* is met :5 ! c> is 9 rapid movem5t1 fur clo!s & lea!r suits h be5 introduc$1 ! latt] ( c\rse be+ n q s old 9 type z ! =m]4 ,x mu/ n be =gott5 at ?is po9t t climate is n ! only enemy t man has _h to face1 & t arm\r 0 a developm5t ( dress1 int5d$ to pres]ve him f ! onslaughts ( 8 own species4 ,we h n[ notic$ two ways 9 :i* clo!s mu/ h be5 br\ght into use1 namely1 z adornm5ts & = protection4 ,we h /ill to consid] ! ?ird ( ! obvi\s reasons4 ,mode/y is a habit1 or "o might p]haps call x equally well a fa%ion1 :i* is s widespread t "s h *>act]iz$ x z be+ an in/9ct1 & h /at$ q wrongly t x is univ]sal4 ,! mo/ curi\s po9t ) reg>d to ! matt] is t v diff]5t ideas ( mode/y prevail 9 v>i\s regions ( ! _w1 "o "p ( ! body be+ cov]$ by "s p & ano!r by o!rs4 ,besides1 x by no means foll[s t a nak$ race is less *a/e ?an "o :i* is clo!d4 ,al?\gh at ! pres5t day races exi/ :]e only ! m5 cov] !mselves1 x is v likely t clo!s wor?y ( ! "n 7 fir/ worn by wom51 = ke5 obs]v]s h po9t$ out t m5 dep5d5t on _! skill & spe$ 9 ! *ase w\ld h>dly encumb] !mselves ) clo!s1 ?\gh hav+ comely wives !y might deem x advisable = !m to be protect$ f ! public gaze4 ,?is idea is /ill c>ri$ out 9 ,ea/]n c\ntries1 :]e wom5 cov] ev5 ! great] "p ( _! faces1 & are usually seclud$ 9 a h>em4 ,z be>+ out1 h[ev]1 :at we h j said ) reg>d to mode/y1 x may be m5tion$ t ! peasant wom5 9 ,egypt are p]fectly happy s long z _! faces & ! backs ( _! heads are cov]$1 & x is consid]$ ev5 m %ameful to expose ! latt] ?an ! =m]4 ,! objection made n long ago to ! appe>ance ( ,engli% wom5 9 *ur* )\t hats may be rememb]$ 9 ?is connection4 ,pa9t+ may (t5 replace clo?+1 & memb]s ( races accu/om$ to decorate _! bodies 9 ?is way1 are mu* a%am$ if !y are se5 unpa9t$4 ,tattoo+ also does away to a great ext5t ) b>5ess1 & x is obvi\s t unclo!d black m5 & wom5 nev] pres5t su* a nak$ appe>ance z d light]-col\r$ races4 ,9 fact1 a :ite man :o ba!d ) a numb] ( col\r$ p lik5$ himself & 8 companions to an artificial1 blan*$1 & sickly plant among its heal?y d>k gre5 fell[s4 ,d\btless ! hair ( orig9al man 0 col\r$ s z to mat* 8 surr\nd+s1 & x seems likely t ! t9t ( 8 sk9 0 r$di%4 ,we h n[ no ne$ = protective col\ration 7except 9 w> "t71 & z we d n live 9 ! tropics1 we %\ld ga9 no advantage f be+ black2 !re=e pigm5t is b little develop$ 9 our sk9s1 & x has be5 sugge/$ t clo!s sometimes h be5 adopt$ by :ite races = /hetic reasons ap>t f _! developm5t f ord9>y ornam5ts4 ,x seems possible1 too1 t man1 ^u realiz+ t he diff]$ f o!r animals 9 hav+ no natural cov]+1 set ab\t to provide himself ) "o4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 ano!r contribut+ cause :i* may h l$ to ! adoption ( dress1 & ?is dep5ds on ! action ( wom5 !mselves4 ,!y may put on clo!s = reasons ( coquetry j z on occasion !y may modify or disc>d !m4 ,= in/ance1 fa%ion at a mom5t's notice may obscure "o "p ( ! body t hi!rto 0 obvi\s1 & at ! same "t emphasize ! natural outl9es ( o!rs :i* be=e 7 hidd54 ,aga91 ! b>e necks & arms display$ 9 our ball-rooms af=d ano!r case 9 po9t4 ,,iii ,,developm5t ,,( ,,! ,,mod]n ,,coat ,,! ,,ance/ral ,,%awl--,,problematical ,,buttons ,n[ t we h consid]$ ! orig9 ( dress z a :ole1 we may turn ) advantage to ! evolution ( individual g>m5ts4 ,p are v (t5 pleas$ to allude to :at are call$ ! vag>ies ( fa%ion1 b x is curi\s to notice h[ little real *ange is made 9 co/ume at ! pres5t "t4 ,! really useful *>act]s are always reta9$1 & our mod]n clo!s c be r$uc$ to a v few types4 ,a skirt is a skirt :e!r x falls naturally1 is held out all r\nd ) a hoop1 or cr9ol9e1 or is only support$ beh9d by :at at "o "t 0 kn[n z an improv]4 ,& 9 ! same way x may be said t tr\s]s rema9 tr\s]s :e!r !y h bell bottoms or are peg tops4 ,ev5 types :i* we recognize z be+ q di/9ct1 are (t5 s closely relat$ z to cause surprise :5 _! family hi/ory is made kn[n4 ,al?\gh x con/antly alt]s z reg>ds details1 :i* f a con/ructional po9t ( view are q unimportant1 woman's dress does n seem to h v>i$ to any v great ext5t4 ,consequ5tly1 !re are n q s _m curi\s features to be se5 z 9 ! ord9>y clo!s or uni=ms ( m54 ,on ! o!r h&1 h[ev]1 we may ) great] reason hope to f9d t "s primitive *>act]s h surviv$ until ! pres5t day4 ,no article ( clo?+ c\ld well be simpl] ?an ! %awl1 & ?\gh !re is an art 9 its arrangem5t1 ! only po9t 9 its /ructure t w\ld appe> to invite att5tion is ! pres5ce ( a fr+e on only two sides4 ,?is seems to be a small matt]1 b x takes u /raight back to ! "t :5 m5 _h ceas$ to be hunt]s m]ely1 & hav+ become agriculturi/s _h le>n$1 z we h already indicat$1 to weave fibres ) ! help ( simple looms4 ,f ! clo? ?us made clo!s 7 con/ruct$1 ?\gh sk9s cont9u$ to be us$ z out] mantles4 ,:5 ! /uff 0 tak5 f ^! e>ly looms1 ! ?reads ( ! w>p 7 left hang+ f two opposite edges1 & ! fr+e t we h n[ on our %awls is a direct survival ( ?is accid5tal occurr5ce4 ,!re seems n ! slighte/ d\bt b t we c trace ! coat f ! %awl4 ,a simple improvem5t 9 ! latt] is to jo9 two edges ( ! %awl toge!r & make a tunic4 ,su* a tubul> g>m5t 0 us$ 9 ,greece1 &1 ) "s slight modifications1 is worn by ,egyptian wom5 to-day4 ,x came up to ! armpits1 0 ga!r$ up on to ea* %\ld] & fa/5$ ) two broo*es4 7,figure #b47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #b4--,sket* %[+ ! developm5t ( ! tunic4 ,9 ?is /age x has no arms4 ,! next /age 9 developm5t w\ld be a sleev$ tunic1 & h[ easily ?is c\ld be d]iv$ f a %awl c be se5 by putt+ a n>r[ "o ov] ! %\ld]s & lift+ up ! arms z %[n 9 ,figure #c4 ,! mat]ial has only to be sewn toge!r "u ! arms1 & if necess>y cut into %ape4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c4--;,diagram %[+ ! way 9 :i* a sleev$ tunic is d]iv$ f ! %awl4 ,if ! front be n sewn up1 we get ! coat z we "k x2 if ! edges be jo9$ along half _! l5g? or m1 !n we h a sleev$ tunic1 a %irt1 or ve/ 7see ,plate ,,iii74 ,! smock-frock 7see ,figure #d7 & g[n are m volum9\s1 :ile ! j]sey is %ort aga91 & has only a small op5+ at ! neck4 ,an int]e/+ g>m5t is f\nd among ! co/umes ( ! ,bronze ,age *iefta9s ( ,d5m>k & _! wives1 :i* h be5 pres]v$ 9 ! oak c(f9s ( ^! p1 ow+ to ! action ( tann9 f ! wood :i* has pres]v$ ! wov5 mat]ial4#e ,! article 9 "q belong$ to "o ( ! wom51 & ?\gh ! front edges are jo9$ = a %ort di/ance1 x is practically a jacket4 ,! sleeves are made all 9 "o piece1 & ! g>m5t is v ne>ly z highly evolv$ z ! ,c>digan jacket1 :i* x v mu* resembles4 7,see ,figure #e47 ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,silk ,,ve/ ,,worn ,,by ,,*>les ,i ,,on ,,! ,,scaffold4 ,,illu/rat+ ,,! ,,sleev$ ,,tunic ,,op5+ ,,= ,a ,,%ort ,,di/ance ,,d[n ,,! ,,front4 7,f a photograph by ,mr4 ,h5ry ,/ev5s47 ,,plate ,,iii4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #d4--;,a smock frock4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #e4--;,jacket ( a woman1 made 9 "o piece4 ,bronze /age ( culture 7aft] ,worsaae74 ,x is by ?is "t cle>1 t sev]al important g>m5ts are ! desc5dants ( ! %awl1 :i* is /ill us$ by m5 9 ! ,briti% ,isles "u ! title ( ! plaid1 or maud4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #f4--,man's dress %[+ buttons on ! "r side4 ,?\gh diff]+1 ( c\rse1 9 detail1 ! upp] g>m5ts ( m5 & wom5 agree 9 g5]al con/ruction4 ,"o ( ! po9ts allud$ to is wor?y ( m5tion1 namely1 t ! buttons on a man's coat are on ! "r side & ! buttonholes on 8 left1 :ile 9 ! case ( wom5's attire ! exact opposite is f\nd--at lea/1 s f> z "o c asc]ta9--9 ,european c\ntries4 ,9 ! ,ea/1 ! little knobs :i* are pass$ ?r\gh loops & take ! place ( buttons1 may 9 ! wom5's dress be on ! "r side1 & 9 o!r ,asiatic co/umes ! same ?+ holds good4 ,9 connection ) ?is peculi>ity1 x may be po9t$ out t m5 & wom5 h diff]5t ways ( do+ up buttons4 ,! man takes hold ( ! button ) 8 "r h&1 puts 8 left ?umb into ! buttonhole & pu%es ! button aga9/ x4 ,!n he pulls ! /uff ov] ) 8 "r =ef+] & pu%es ! button ?r\gh ) 8 "r ?umb :ile he guides x ) 8 left4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #g4--,woman's dress %[+ buttons on ! left side4 ,! woman1 on ! o!r h&1 puts h] "r ?umb ?r\gh ! buttonhole1 takes hold ( ! button ) ! f+]s ( ! same h&1 & f9ally1 if ! o!r h& is at lib]ty1 br+s x up to f9i% ! process4 7,see ,figures #f to #aa47 ,to expla9 ! diff]5ce 9 ! position ( ! buttons is n by any means easy4 ,9 ! correspond5ce :i* has aris5 out ( lectures :i* ! writ] has giv5 on ! evolution ( dress1 x has1 9 ! fir/ place1 be5 sugge/$ t ! arrangem5t ( 8 clo?+ p]mitt$ a man to ?ru/ 8 "r & fight+ arm into 8 jacket 9 ord] to keep x w>m4 ,?is explanation1 ( c\rse1 does n acc\nt = ! v>iation 9 ! case ( wom54 ,dr4 ,lyman1 ( ,baltimore1 has submitt$ ! !ory t a man we>+ a loose cloak1 toga1 or plaid1 w\ld grasp x ) ! left h& & ?ru/ ! left side ov] ! "r s z to leave ! "r-h& free 9 ord] to hold a weapon or implem5t4 ,a woman w\ld grasp h] attire ) h] "r h&1 & pu% x ov] ! left side & leave h] left arm un5cumb]$1 :]e) to c>ry a *ild4 ,x w\ld1 h[ev]1 seem m natural = ! "r side to be pull$ ov] ! left1 b x is unlikely t a man w\ld fight 9 a loose cloak1 & ! toga 0 only worn 9 times ( peace4 ,moreov]1 ! jacket1 z we h se51 0 develop$ f ! cloak ?r\gh ! tunic4 ,a tunic 0 worn "u ! toga1 & z ! only loose edge ( ! latt] lies 9 ! same way z ! buttonhole side ( a man's coat1 x is feasible t ! edges ( ! tunic b5ea? w\ld = conv5i5ce be made to lap ! same way4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #h4--;,fir/ /age4 ,,fig4 #i4--,second /age4 ,diagrams %[+ h[ a man does up a button4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aj4--;,fir/ /age4 ,,fig4 #aa4--,second /age4 ,diagrams %[+ h[ a woman does up a button4 ,to turn to wom5's dress1 x is cu/om>y1 z ,dr4 ,lyman says1 to c>ry *ildr5 on ! left arm1 & !y are all[$ to suck ! left brea/ to a great] ext5t ?an ! o!r4 ,! left side ( a bodice c\ld1 if ! "r lapp$ ov] x1 be pull$ back )\t expos+ s mu* ( ! p]son z if ! rev]se held good1 & 9 ! case ( tightly-fitt+ clo?+1 if ! buttons h to be done up ) ! "r h& alone1 ! task is made easi]4 ,ano!r int]e/+ little po9t ( diff]5ce betwe5 ! clo!s ( ! two sexes is1 t :ile ! buttons on a man's wri/b&s are on ! ?umb side1 ^? ( a woman are on t :i* corresponds ) ! little f+]4 ,?is arrangem5t is no d\bt correlat$ ) t previ\sly discuss$1 b ! reason = x is n obvi\s4 ,,iv ,,buttons ,,z ,,*ronicles ,,episodes ,,9 ,,! ,,lat] ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,! ,,coat ,,& ,,cuffs ,we h ga9$ "s insight into ! developm5t ( g>m5ts z a :ole1 & no d\bt x is n[ obvi\s t ! little details ( con/ruction w prove by no means ! lea/ attractive "p ( our subject4 ,x has become cu/om>y to ref] to a button z typify+ some?+ ( specially small acc\nt1 ?\gh v (t5 mu* may dep5d 9 practice ^u "o ( ^! despis$ articles4 ,we h already %[n t ! m]e position ( a few buttons t are /ill useful1 may raise mo/ curi\s po9ts1 & 9 ! pres5t *apt] we %all proce$ to inve/igate "s episodes 9 ! lat] hi/ory ( ! coat :i* h left _! m>k ^u x1 to a great ext5t 9 ! %ape ( useless buttons4 ,?is topic w be dealt ) 9 "s detail1 s t x may s]ve z a guide to ^? ( our read]s :o may be induc$ to und]take ! fasc9at+ /udy ( survivals 9 dress4 ,aft]w>ds1 ! g5]al survey ( mod]n clo!s w be cont9u$1 & "h & !re l9es ( rese>* w be indicat$1 :ile "s problems w be left = our read]s to solve4 ,9 ! second "p ( ! book1 x is int5d$ to deal ) a c]ta9 numb] ( co/umes :i* h be5 h&$ d[n to u z !y are4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ab4--,! buttons on ! back ( a policeman's great coat4 ,at ! pres5t "t !re are usually to be se5 two buttons on ! back ( civilians' coats1 except 9 ! case ( l\nge suits & d9n] jackets1 & !re may be f\r or m on ! great coats ( policem5 7see ,figure #ab7 & on ! tunics ( "s soldi]s4 ,! fir/ "q :i* we w endeav\r to answ] is1 ,:y are !y !re8 ,! two upp] buttons 9 ! case ( uni=ms are n[ us$ to support a belt1 & at fir/ sight x looks z if !y 7 orig9ally int5d$ = ?is purpose4 ,_! adoption 9 o!r cases might !n be put d[n z a survival f a "t :5 civilians c>ri$ swords4 ,un=tunately = ?is !ory1 x c be %[n t ! sword-belt 0 n necess>ily worn outside ! coat 7see ,figures #ah & #ai74 ,we mu/ !re=e look r\nd = fur!r evid5ce1 & we f9d t ^? coats :i* be> ! pair ( buttons1 h a slit up ! middle :i* gives rise to ! skirts or tails4 ,?is arrangem5t c>ries u back to ! "t :5 !re 7 no railways & few conveyances2 :5 m5 commonly travell$ on horseback & _! :ole attire 0 adapt$ to ?is end1 s t !y 7 ready = ! saddle at a mom5t's notice4 ,! division 9 ! coat :i* we are consid]+1 all[$ "o tail to fall conv5i5tly on ea* side ( ! horse aft] its rid] _h m\nt$ x4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ac4--,! buttons t close ! slit up ! back ( an ul/]4 ,9 long ov]coats ( to-day we f9d only a %ort slit1 left = conv5i5ce 9 walk+ 7see ,figure #ac72 b x has a special int]e/ = u1 z 9 connection ) x !re are two or ?ree buttons & buttonholes1 usually hidd51 :i* all[ ( ! op5+ be+ clos$ up4 ,"h1 !n1 we h buttons on ! back ( ! coat /ill s]v+ a useful purpose1 & x is n at all difficult to trace ! s]ies ( fa/5+s back to a mu* long] "o1 :i* 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury 0 q obvi\s4 7,see ,figure #ad47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ad4--;,a back view ( a sev5te5?-c5tury coat %[+ ! buttons & buttonholes4 ,ea* button & buttonhole 0 plac$ 9 ! middle ( simil> pieces ( lace or embroid]y1 s t ! sides ( ! coat 7 made to look symmetrical4 ,! object 9 view 0 ! keep+ ( ! skirts ( ! coat toge!r :5 ! we>] 0 n on horseback4 ,at ! pres5t day ! buttons h be5 duplicat$ & are on bo? sides ( ! coat1 & !y are /ill sewn to ornam5tal pieces 9 ! uni=m ( ! ,gr5adi] ,gu>ds4 ,! pres5ce ( ! l[] buttons on uni=ms & coats is !re=e expla9$4 ,x might be assum$ t ! topmo/ button _h also be5 d\bl$ & rais$ above ! slit1 & t 9 ?is way we h obta9$ ! two ornam5ts on ! back ( our coats4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ae4--,! tab & buttons on ! back ( a soldi]'s great coat :i* make a tempor>y wai/4 ,be=e accept+ su* a solution ( ! problem1 h[ev]1 x may be well to see if ! buttons may n h _h ano!r orig92 & on look+ = "s clue we f9d t two folds take _! rise f ! po9t :]e ! buttons are situat$4 ,^! may be expect$ to ?r[ "s light ^u ! "q4 ,! folds are n[ p]man5t1 b on a volum9\s coat1 su* z /ill us$ by horse soldi]s1 !y c be produc$ tempor>ily 7see ,figure #ae7 by sett+ ! two buttons fur!r ap>t & runn+ a tab f "o to ! o!r4 ,sir ,george ,d>w9 has attempt$ to c>ry ! hi/ory ( ^! two buttons /ill fur!r back4#f ,he has express$ ! op9ion t ea* is "o ( a pair t orig9ally kept 9 place a small tab at ! side ( ! coat1 & s help$ to produce a wai/ :5 requir$4 7,see ,figures #ag & #ah47 ,9 "s draw+s ( coats 7see ,figure #ah7 ! side tabs & _! correspond+ buttons are %[n 9 addition to ^? on ! back ( ! coat4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 evid5ce to %[ t ! buttons 7 orig9ally on ! sides ( ! coat1 = !y are s wide ap>t z to be to all int5ts & purposes 9 t position1 on ! uni=m ov]coats ( ! ,london ,electric ,tramway driv]s4 7,see ,figure #af47 ,!y may well repres5t ! topmo/ buttons ( ! lat]al s]ies1 /ill f\nd on ! ov]coat ( ! memb]s ( ! ,corps ( ,commissionaires4 ,9 ?is case !re are ?ree buttons on ea* side1 ( :i* ! middle "o is us$ = fa/5+ ! side-pocket4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #af4--,! buttons & tab on a tramway driv]'s coat4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ag4--;,an eighte5?-c5tury coat ) side buttons & tab4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ah4--,side tabs & buttons at ! back 7aft] ,rac9et74 ,x is wor? :ile to consid] side-pockets1 :i* 9 _! turn are remnants ( lat]al op5+s :i* 7 made 9 coats at ! end ( ! sev5te5? & ! beg9n+ ( ! foll[+ c5turies4 ,! sword-h&le conv5i5tly protrud$ ?r\gh ! left-h& slit1 :i*1 l its fell[1 ran f ! wai/ to ! l[] m>g9 ( ! coat or /opp$ half-way4 7,see ,figures #ah & #ai47 ,9 ! latt] case1 ! arrangem5t v mu* resembles ! v]tical pocket :i* has become common aga9 ( rec5t ye>s4 7,see ,figure #bj47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ai4--;,a coat worn at ! end ( ! sev5te5?-c5tury 7aft] ,h4 ,bonn>t74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bj4--;,a mod]n coat ) side pockets4 ,occasionally a tab1 su* z t to :i* ref]5ce has be5 made1 kept ! p>ts ( ! coat toge!r2 b (t5 !re 7 buttons & buttonholes1 at lea/ at ! upp] end ( ! op5+s4 ,^! survive 9 sev]al cases1 su* z 9 ! ov]coat ( ! commissionaire1 :ile ! pocket is sometimes repres5t$ by a m]e flap 7see ,figure #ba7 ornam5t$ ) buttons z on ! liv]y ( c]ta9 footm54 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ba4--;,a footman's coat1 mod]n1 ) ve/igial pocket flaps4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bb4--;,coat skirts button$ back 7aft] ,hog>?74 ,to sum up ! matt]1 ! topmo/ pair ( buttons has come f ! fa/5+s ( ! side slit & ! l[] ones f ^? ( ! back slit4 ,buttons on ! skirt beh9d h 9 ! meantime _h a v intimate connection ) ! evolution ( ! swall[-tail coat 7see ,figure #bd74 ,!y 7 us$ to fa/5 ! corn]s ( ! ord9>y rid+-coat toge!r1 s t ! l9+s %\ld n be injur$ by ! sweat ( ! horses4 7,see ,figure #bb47 ,mr4 ,deane ,but*] tells me t he c rememb] ?is button+ back be+ done 9 ! case ( 8 uncle1 :5 ! latt] rode to m>ket or to *ur*2 b 9 ?is case x 0 ! two upp]mo/ buttons :i* 7 aga9 br\ght into use4 ,at dances ! coats 7 also subject$ to simil> treatm5t1 & :at at fir/ 0 a tempor>y condition aft]w>ds became a p]man5t "o4 ,x is obvi\s t ! turn$-back l9+ w\ld (t5 be ( a diff]5t col\r f ! outside ( ! coat1 & fac+s on old uni=ms1 & 9 t ( ! pres5t dress ( a "l-lieut5ant 7see ,figure #bc7 are d]iv$ f ! practice ( fa/5+ ! corn]s ( ! coat toge!r4 ,9 ! swall[-tail ! out] corn]s h be5 cut "r away4 7,see ,figure #bd47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bc4--;,a coat ) ! skirts button$ back & %[+ ! l9+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bd4--;,a dress coat ) skirts cut away4 ,! buttons1 9 ! int]e/+ cases :i* we h describ$1 h be5 all[$ to rema9 z "p & p>cel ( our co/ume on acc\nt ( _! decorative "*1 & 9 a great measure ! same is true ( ^? on coat cuffs 7see ,figure #be74 ,9 _m cases !re are prop] buttonholes1 & x is possible to undo ! sleeve buttons2 b occasionally ! arrangem5t has deg5]at$ & ! buttonholes are imitations or only ! buttons rema94 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #be4--;,a mod]n coat cuff ) buttons4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bf4--,turn$-back cuff1 end ( sev5te5? c5tury 7aft] ,bonn>t74 ,to f9d an explanation ( ?is feature we %all h to g back aga9 to ! sev5te5? c5tury1 :5 s mu* 0 exp5d$ ^u coats t x became advisable to turn back ! cuffs out ( h>m's way4 ,to hold !m 9 position1 s]ies ( buttons & buttonholes 7 devis$1 & j z ! turn+ back ( ! skirts 0 at fir/ tempor>y & aft]w>ds came to be done once = all :5 ! coat 0 made1 s ! turn$-back cuff grew into a p]man5t in/itution4 ,9 ,figure #bf ! buttons are "o above ! o!r z 9 mod]n dress1 b 9 ! next two ,figures 7#bg & #bh7 !y are horizontal4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bg4--;,a coat sleeve 7aft] ,hog>?7 ) a horizontal r[ ( buttons4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bh4--,sleeve ( a coat ( ! sev5te5? c5tury1 reput$ to h be5 worn by ,*>les ,i4 ,a survival ( ?is arrangem5t c /ill be se5 9 ! coat sleeves ( ! high] cl]gy4 ,9 ord9>y dress1 ! turn$-back edge ( ! cuff may n[ only be repres5t$ by a b& ( braid or a r[ ( /it*es2 b 9 soldi]s' uni=ms1 an ornam5t$ cuff p]si/s :i* repres5ts 9 reality ! l9+ ( ! sleeve4 ,aga91 ! turn$-back cuff is actually pres5t 9 ! clo!s ( co/]mong]s1 & has be5 reviv$ on ov]coats to a consid]able ext5t dur+ ! la/ few ye>s4 7,see ,figure #bi47 ,z a rule1 too1 ! v]tical pocket already describ$ accompanies ! turn$-back cuff1 z x did "s c5turies ago4 7,see ,figure #bj47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bi4--,! turn$-back cuff on an ov]coat1 mod]n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cj4--;,a sleeve ) v]tical buttons & a turn$-back cuff z well 7f a uni=m1 aft] ,hog>?74 ,x mu/ n be =gott5 t buttons h long be5 us$ on n>r[ sleeves4 ,!y are undone :5 ! h& is to be pu%$ ?r\gh ! cuff1 & aft]w>ds fa/5$ = ! sake ( w>m? or to give a neat appe>ance4 ,x is !re=e possible t ! r+ ( buttons is m prop]ly a survival ( ! "t :5 cuffs 7 turn$ back to pres]ve !m1 & t ! v]tical r[ is really ( e>li] orig94 ,a uni=m repres5t$ by ,hog>? 7,figure #cj7 %[s bo? ! r[ ( buttons & ! turn$-back cuff1 :i* seems to be q indep5d5t ( !m4 ,9 ?is in/ance we may h ! deg5]at$ turn$-back cuff & "o reviv$1 %[n toge!r4 ,su* a case1 we ne$ sc>cely po9t out1 c\ld h>dly occur 9 ! case ( an animal /ructure1 = if by a ?r[ back or rev]sion to type we get a ve/igial "* once m fully reproduc$1 we _c expect ! orig9al /ructure & ! ve/ige to be %[n at ! same "t4 ,! adoption ( buttons m or less = ornam5t has long be5 practis$4 ,john ,br&on1 :o di$ 9 ! ye> #acfd1 is %[n on 8 brass 79 ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,m>y1 ,k+'s ,lynn7 ) no less ?an =ty buttons on ! sleeves ( 8 und]ve/1 :i* has embroid]$ cuffs & is button$ to ! elb[ 7see ,plate ,,iv74 ,we %all1 h[ev]1 h some?+ m to say ) reg>d to buttons f ?is & o!r po9ts ( view z we proce$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,reproduction ,,( ,a ,,brass ,,to ,,john ,,br&on ,,& ,,8 ,,two ,,wives1 ,,9 ,,! ,,*ur* ,,( ,,/4 ,,m>y1 ,,k+',s ,,lynn4 ,,date #acfd4 ,,on ,,! ,,male ,,figure ,a ,,cont9u\s ,,r[ ,,( ,,buttons ,,runs ,,f ,,! ,,wri/ ,,to ,,! ,,elb[ ,,( ,,! ,,"u ,,ve/4 ,,! ,,wom5 ,,we> ,,! ,,wimple ,,& ,,! ,,gorget ,,or ,,?roat ,,clo?4 ,,plate ,,iv4 ,an int]e/+ case ( sup]flu\s buttons on ! front ( clo!s is to be se5 9 ! case ( ! %ort jackets ( ! po/ilions1 belong+ to ,8 ,maje/y ! ,k+4 ,!re is a useful r[ d[n ! middle :i* closes ! g>m5t1 & two ornam5tal r[s :i* />t f ea* %\ld] & curve d[nw>ds t[>ds ! middle r[4 ,^! are probably ve/iges ( buttons t 7 once ( use1 & to seek an explanation x might be well to /udy "s uni=ms ( ! pa/4 ,we %all f9d t 9 ! eighte5? c5tury x 0 cu/om>y to button back ! rev]s ( ! uni=m coat1 z 9 ! case ( ! ,fr5* coa/-gu>d (fic] ( #agge4 7,see ,figure #ca47 ,fa%ion aft]w>ds decre$ t ! coats %\ld be fa/5$ aga9 ) hooks1 b ! two r[s ( buttons rema9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ca4--,! uni=m ( a coa/-gu>d (fic] ( #agge 7aft] ,rac9et74 ,9 ! coat ( ! po/ilion !re is no trace ( ! rev]s :i* %[$ ! l9+1 & 7 consequ5tly ( a diff]5t col\r f ! re/ ( ! coat4 ,we f9d1 h[ev]1 9 ! peculi> uni=m ( ! ,lanc]s t !re are ! two side r[s ( buttons1 to :i* is fa/5$ a r$ front4 ,?is appe>s to repres5t ! two rev]s comb9$4 ,9 ! pres5t ye>1 #aijg1 a numb] ( ladies' dresses are to be se5 9 :i* ! rev]s trimm$ ) a diff]5t mat]ial f ! dress are button$ back aga9/ ! latt]4 ,9 "s c]emonial dresses & uni=ms !re are cross /ripes on ! brea/ 7see ,figure #fa7 :i*1 x has be5 po9t$ out1 repres5t s]ies ( buttonholes :i* h become hyp]trophi$1 & are n[ exagg]at$ beyond recognition4 ,! braid on ! cuff ( ! ,london ,scotti% ,volunte]s seems also to repres5t buttonholes4 ,su* features z turn$-back cuffs occur 9 wom5's clo!s1 &1 z we h se51 ! arrangem5t ( buttons may be copi$ f mascul9e attire4 ,9 o!r cases buttons seem to appe> :i* h1 x w\ld seem1 no h]$it>y "r to _! position2 b x may be well1 be=e dismiss+ !m1 to see :e!r !y h n a p$igree4 ,we might cite ! case ( ! buttons t are sewn on to ! frocks a little bel[ ! knee4 ,!y are (t5 at ! head ( a plait1 & x w\ld be wor? :ile to look into _! hi/ory4 ,v ,,coll>s ,,& ,,b&s ,,nicks ,,9 ,,coat ,,lapels--,,! ,,:y ,,& ,,:]e=e ,,( ,,! ,,:ite ,,%irt ,,front ,let u c>ry on our "w ( dissect+ ! clo!s ( a mod]n man1 & z we once m survey our subject1 we may glance a little high] ?an h]et(ore1 until our eyes re/ ^u ! coll> ( 8 coat4 ,?is /ructure passes into ! lapels1 & at ! po9t ( junction !re is a curi\s nick :i* is repeat$ 9 ! wai/coat if ?is be simil>ly provid$ ) lapels4 7,see ,figure #cb47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cb4--,! nicks 9 ! coat & wai/coat4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cc4--;,a /age :5 ! nick 0 useful 7,luci5 ,bonap>te1 aft] ,paul ,lacroix74 ,!re is always a temptation to inv5t "s int]e/+ !ory 9 ord] to expla9 ! orig9 ( ve/iges1 & a p5ny pap]1 :i* h>dly boa/s ( sci5tific accuracy1 n long ago in=m$ its read]s t ! slit 9 ! coat lapel is ! outcome ( a unique & beautiful cu/om among ! or?odox ,jews1 = 9 =m] days1 :5 dea? visit$ a ,jew's h\sehold1 he cut ! lapel ( 8 coat4 ,x 0 und\bt$ly a cu/om ( ! ,jews to r5d _! g>m5ts1 b x does n1 on ! face ( x1 seem likely t ! practice w\ld h influ5c$ mod]n co/ume4 ,x w\ld appe>1 h[ev]1 t ! slit 9 ! lapel has a mu* m prosaic orig91 & owes its exi/5ce r to a practical requirem5t ?an to a s5tim5tal obs]vance4 ,:5 ! coll> ( a coat is made to /& up1 x is absolutely necess>y t a piece %\ld be cut out ( ! clo?1 or ! lapel w n lie d[n4 ,9 ! exagg]at$ g>m5t ( :i* we give an illu/ration 7see ,figure #cc7 ?is ne$ is mo/ manife/2 b a mom5t's ?\ght w %[ t ! provision mu/ be made1 ev5 if ! coll> be small4 ,a trifl+ exp]im5t w indicate t at ! pres5t day ! cut is n usually made deep en\gh to all[ ( ! coll> be+ turn$ up )\t di/urb+ ! lapels4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cd4--,! too?pick on a dress coat4 ,ano!r rem>kable v>iation is to be f\nd 9 ! coll>s ( "s dress suits4 ,a little po9t is left on ! coll> kn[n to tailors z ! too?pick1 :i* runs across ! nick into ! lapel 7see ,figure #cd74 ,?is /ructure is probably a survival ( "s p>ticul> k9d ( coll>4 ,x might be po9t$ out "h t ! fac+s & coll> t are ( silk or velvet repres5t ! l9+ ( ! coat :i* came into view :5 ! coll> 0 turn$ d[n & ! lapels turn$ back4 ,! case is q simil> to t ( ! cuffs on uni=ms1 & to be q consi/5t1 ! :ole coat %\ld be l9$ ) :at is usually us$ n[ only z a k9d ( trimm+4 ,x is b a %ort /ep f ! features t we h be5 discuss+1 to ! l95 coll> & ! %irt front4 ,! cutt+ away ( ! out] g>m5t to br+ ! %irt into view is a relic ( ! "t :5 only ^? :o 7 v well to d c\ld af=d to we> l951 & !y %[$ x1 9 ord] to indicate _! social position1 or at any rate _! f9ancial res\rces4 ,at ! same "t1 ! wom5 cut _! dresses l[ s z to %[ _! und]l952 & n cont5t ) ?is1 !y fur!r1 at ! end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 slit _! g[ns f ! armpits to ! hips4 ,! op5+s ?us made 7 lac$ across1 s t ! l95 g>m5ts b5ea? c\ld easily be se54 ,! :ite %irt has long surviv$1 & 9 spite ( its depreciat$ value has up to q rec5tly pos$ z a badge ( respectability4 ,n[ at la/ !re are signs t its sway is ov]1 & t soon x w come to be only a g>m5t ( c]emony4 ,! l95 coll> ( to-day is q a small affair comp>$ ) "s ( its =]unn]s4 ,an int]e/+ relic is to be se5 9 ! two little l95 flaps :i* we call b&s 7see ,figure #ce74 ,^! are /ill worn by prea*]s 9 conjunction ) ! ,g5eva g[n1 by b>ri/]s1 & by ,blue-coat boys 7see ,figure #cf71 & we c easily trace _! relation%ip to ! coll>4 ,until a few ye>s ago ! *ori/]s at ,jesus ,college1 ,cambridge1 wore a peculi> coll> :i* end$ 9 two flaps mu* resembl+ b&s1 & ! desc5t ( ?is f ! l>ge /ructures :i* 7 call$ fall+ b&s is n difficult to trace4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ce4--,mod]n b&s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cf4--;,a blue-coat boy's b&s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #cg4--;,a *ori/] ( ,jesus ,college1 ,cambridge1 %[+ ! coll> worn until rec5tly4 7,f a photograph by ! c\rtesy ( ,mr4 ,h4 ,au/9 ,:eaton47 ,! portrait ( ,jan ,/e51 :i* we reproduce1 %[s b&s :i* are less /iff & =mal1 b ( ampl] proportions4 7,see ,figure #ch47 ,go+ a little fur!r back1 we f9d ! coll> t cov]$ ! %\ld]s1 su* z ,milton wore1 & :i* is %[n 9 our picture ( ,john ,pym4 7,see ,figure #ci47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ch4--;,a /age 9 ! r$uction ( ! b&s 7portrait ( ,jan ,/e5 f ! ,illu/rat$ ,magaz9e ( ,art74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ci4--;,full-siz$ b&s 7portrait ( ,john ,pym f ! ,illu/rat$ ,magaz9e ( ,art74 ,at ?is po9t we may pause to recall a simple article :i* is kn[n z a b&box1 b :i* has be5 div]t$ f its orig9al purpose ( hold+ b&s1 & is n[ commonly us$ z a receptacle = hats4 ,?\gh n itself "p ( dress1 ! b&box furni%es an int]e/+ in/ance ( adaptation to circum/ances4 ,x 0 well suit$ to conta9 articles ( dress o!r ?an ^? = :i* x 0 prim>ily int5d$1 & h5ce x has surviv$ 9 ! /ruggle = exi/5ce4 7,see ,figure #dj47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dj4--;,a mod]n b&box1 n[ us$ = hats4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #da4--;,b&s t survive at ! pres5t day4 ,we mu/ n1 h[ev]1 jump to ! conclusion t b&s are n[ only repres5t$ by ve/iges1 = !y are /ill to be se5 9 _! full glory on v small boys 7see ,figure #da71 & ! writ] recalls a lad ( f\rte5 or s :o _h rea*$ ! dignity ( tr\s]s :o wore ! same k9d ( coll>4 ,z he also _h a tr5*]1 or 9 common p>lance1 a mort>-bo>d1 x is possible t he 0 n an isolat$ survival1 b belong$ to "s s*ool :i* adopt$ a special co/ume4 ,z l95 coll>s are "o ( ! articles ( dress 9 reg>d to :i* ! we>] is all[$ 9 a great measure to foll[ 8 own ta/e1 x is n surpris+ t a great _m =ms h f "t to "t be5 inv5t$4 ,q a numb] are /ill to be se5 "h & !re1 :ile ! developm5t ( ! m fa%ionable %apes "o f ! o!r w\ld1 9 itself1 =m a *apt] 9 ! ,evolution ( ,dress4 ,! cl]ical coll> may be s+l$ out1 z x fa/5s beh9d l ! b&s1 ?\gh ! reason = ?is is n at all obvi\s4 ,9 recall+ ! great ruffs & exp&$ coll>s ( ,que5 ,elizabe?'s reign1 "o may be incl9$ to smile at ! l5g?s to :i* a fad may be c>ri$1 & ! curi\s1 n to say mon/r\s1 /ructures t are its culm9ations4 ,^!1 l ! huge creatures ( bygone ages1 die out1 b diff] 9 ?is respect t !y sometimes revive = a "t4 ,= in/ance1 only a few ye>s h pass$ s9ce ! coll>s ( ladies' mantles /ood up r\nd ! back ( _! heads2 b z ! coll>s usually lack$ ! decoration & col\r ( ! ,elizabe?an p]iod1 !y appe>$ z if !y 7 int5d$ m]ely to keep ! draught f ! necks ( _! we>]s1 & !y did n la/ = long4 ,,vi ,,ve/iges ,,9 ,,! ,,hat ,,h[ ,,hats ,,7 ,,evolv$--,,:y ,,plumes ,,are ,,on ,,! ,,left ,,side--,,! ,,gr[? ,,( ,,! ,,busby--,,helmets ,,& ,,cock$ ,,hats ,^? :o h writt5 ^u dress f an arti/ic po9t ( view h recogniz$ t co/ume & ar*itecture are affect$ by ! same influ5ces4 ,:5 we come to ! hat1 we f9d t its "n is connect$ ) a build+ ( a primitive "*1 namely1 a hut4 ,mr4 ,allan ,poe ,newcombe1 an ar*itect1 "s ye>s ago po9t$ out ! curi\s resemblance :i* has exi/$1 & is /ill to be f\nd 9 _m c\ntries1 betwe5 headge> & habitations or o!r build+s4#g ,x may be t ! cases :i* h be5 collect$ toge!r are m]e co9cid5ces1 ?\gh x mu/ be all[$ t !y are bo? num]\s & /rik+4 ,x may be t ! same ta/e1 or lack ( x1 has giv5 rise to ! simil>ity ( /yle1 or 9 ! beg9n+1 ! design] ( ! hat may h tak5 ! hut z a model4 ,9 ! ,hawaiian ,isl&s1 long be=e ! inhabitants tr\bl$ ab\t clo!s1 !y built !mselves grass h\ses1 & at ! pres5t "t ! *>act]i/ic ,hawaiian hat is rem>kably l ! hut4 ,! turbans ( ,ea/]n ,*ur* dignit>ies are /ill ( ! same %ape z ^? worn by ! high prie/s among ! ,jews1 & are rem>kably l ! *>act]i/ic dome :i* surm\nts a mosque4 7,see ,figure #db47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #db4--,! turban ( a ,jewi% prie/ 7aft] ,kitto7 comp>$ ) ! dome ( ! ,mosque ( ,om>4 ,look+ ab\t 9 o!r c\ntries we %all f9d fur!r in/ances t support ,mr4 ,newcombe's cont5tion2 our illu/ration ( a ,siamese head-dress & build+ is a case 9 po9t4 7,see ,figure #dc47 ,aga9 go+ back into ,european hi/ory1 we f9d t ! high po9t$ spires ( ,go?ic *ur*es 7 cotemporane\s ) ! high horn-l head-dress kn[n z ! h5n9 7see ,figure #dd74 ,x is claim$1 moreov]1 t l results w be f\nd aft] a comp>ison ( o!r /yles ( ar*itecture ) ! co/ume ( ! p]iod 9 :i* !y fl\ri%$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dc4--;,a ,siamese head-dress & a ,pra ,pang or ,votive spire 7aft] ,p4,a4 ,?ompson74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dd4--;,a ,go?ic spire 7,/4 ,/eph5's1 ,ca57 comp>$ ) ! h5n9 7! latt] aft] ,fairholt74 ,leav+ ?is sugge/ive l9e ( rese>*1 & com+ to hats z we h !m at ! pres5t day1 we f9d t !y (f] sev]al rem>kable ve/iges = our consid]ation4 ,fir/ ( all !re is ! hat-b& outside1 :i* sometimes ends 9 two tails or /ream]s t hang f ! back ( ! hat 7see ,figure #dg74 ,f ! b[ usually pres5t x is evid5t t ! hat-b& 0 ti$1 & ! /ream]s repres5t ! loose ends4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 primitively1 a head-dress 0 made f a piece ( clo?1 r\nd :i* a fillet 0 ti$ s t x fitt$ ! head4 ,9 ?is connexion ,figure #de is mo/ int]e/+4 ,x repres5ts ! back view ( ! head ( ! ,egyptian woman ( ! ,six? ,dyna/y1 :o is se5 9 ,figure #gf1 & %[s a head-dress :i* is conf9$ ) a fillet t is ti$ at ! back s z to make two tails4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #de4--;,b& ) /ream]s fa/5+ on ! head-dress ( an ,egyptian woman4 ,f a figure ( ! ,six? ,dyna/y1 ,b4,c4 #cejj4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #df4--;,a lady's head-dress conf9$ ) a fillet1 f\rte5? c5tury 7aft] ,viollet le ,duc74 ,! mod]n ,arab fa/5s 8 kefiyeh ) a twi/ ( camel's hair )\t /ream]s1 & ! lady ( ! f\rte5? c5tury1 %[n 9 ,figure #df1 has also an ord9>y b&4 ,! *ild's sailor hat & ! ,scot* cap are among ! mod]n head cov]+s :i* reta9 ! /r+s 7,figure #di74 ,a twelf?-c5tury head-dress %[n 9 a manuscript 7,figure #dh7 has a great simil>ity to ! ,scot* cap1 z ! b& =ms a k9d ( b9d+ to ! article 9 bo? cases1 & !re are /ream]s to bo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dg4--;,a sailor hat ) b& & /ream]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #dh4--;,a twelf?-c5tury head-dress ) /ream]s f a ,,ms4 7aft] ,viollet le ,duc74 ,! /r+s or /ream]s are to be f\nd 9 _m o!r head cov]+s1 includ+ ! mitres ( bi%ops 7see ,figure #ej74 ,! p>ticul> mitre illu/rat$ is t ( ! ,see ( ,durham1 :i* is di/+ui%$ f o!rs 9 be+ plum$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #di4--;,a mod]n ,scot* cap ) /ream]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ej4--;,a mitre ( ! ,see ( ,durham %[+ ! /r+s 7aft] ,mill+ton74 ,an int]e/+ sugge/ion z to ! orig9 ( ! slit 9 ! top ( ! mitre may be m5tion$ "h4 ,head-dresses 7 us$ 9 v e>ly times :i* 7 9 ! =m ( a fi%'s head1 & x has be5 ?\ght t ! slit 9 ! mitre1 s di/9ctly %[n 9 *ess-m51 repres5ts ! fi%'s m\?4 ,on look+ at ! inside ( a mod]n hat1 a little b[ ( silk ribbon w usually be f\nd at ! back :]e ! two edges ( ! lea!r l9+ meet4 ,"h1 aga91 is a ve/ige4 7,see ,figure #ea47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ea4--,small ve/igial b[ ( ribbon 9 a mod]n hat4 ,9 "s hats ! ribbon does n simply make ! b[1 b x is ?read$ ?r\gh a great] or less numb] ( holes 9 ! lea!r1 ?\gh n[ fulfill+ no useful purpose4 7,see ,figure #eb47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eb4--;,a hat ) ! rema9s ( lac+4 ,9 a hunt+ hat1 h[ev] 7see ,figure #ec71 ! lac+ is cont9u\s r\nd ! hat1 & ! l9+ c be made to fit ! we>]4 ,x helps to =m a buff]1 %\ld ! huntsman un=tunately fall on 8 head1 & x is claim$ t _m lives h be5 sav$ by ?is small detail4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ec4--;,a hunt+ hat ) complete lac+ inside4 ,x may be ga!r$ f ! description t 9 times :5 hats c\ld n easily be got to fit _! we>]s1 ! lac+ inside w\ld be mo/ useful1 z x ensur$ t ! size c\ld be adju/$4 ,x is possible also t 9 ! lac+ we h a means by :i* a hat 0 orig9ally %ap$1 & t ! lace is really a hat-b& ?read$ ?r\gh ! mat]ial ( ! head-dress in/ead ( be+ ti$ r\nd outside4 ,! fir/ diagram on page #eg %[s a flat piece ( lea!r cut into a circul> =m2 ! next %[s x p]=at$ & a lace put ?r\gh ! op5+s2 ! ?ird indicates h[ by tight5+ ! /r+ a cr[n c\ld be made to ! hat4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ed4--;,a disc ( lea!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ee4--,! disc p]=at$ & ! lace ins]t$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ef4--,! lace tight5$ to =m a cr[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eg4--,! ends ( ! lace ti$ z a b[ inside4 ,9 "t1 :5 ! cr[n 0 made 9 diff]5t ways1 x w\ld be easy to transf] ! lac+ to ! l9+ z se5 already 9 ! hunt+ hat 7,figure #ec74 ,x is int]e/+ to note t a small b[ is also f\nd inside ladies' hats1 & (t5 us$ z a place on :i* to put ! "n ( ! mak]4 7,see ,figure #eh47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #eh4--;,a b[ fa/5$ to ! l9+ ( a lady's hat4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ei4--,plumes on ! left side4 ,sir ,george ,d>w9 has %[n :y plumes are1 & us$ to be1 on ! left side ( a hat only4 ,9 ! days :5 ! fea!rs 7 p>ticul>ly long !re 0 also pl5ty ( fight+1 & x only ne$s ! att5tion to be drawn to ! po9t1 to make "o realize t if ! plume _h be5 on ! "r side1 x might (t5 h got 9 ! way ( a sword & !reby caus$ ! ov]?r[ or ev5 dea? ( its we>]4 ,at ! pres5t day 9 ! army 7see ,figure #ei71 ! plumes w be f\nd on ! left side z 9 ! days ( cavali]s4 ,sir ,george ,d>w9#h has trac$ ! orig9 ( ! busby1 & has %[n t ! little r$ flap t hangs on ! left side z a useless app5dage is really ! orig9al cap4 ,busbies 7 ! special attributes ( ! ,huss>s1 :o 7 orig9ally ,hung>ian soldi]s4 ,x is ! peasant's cap ( ,hung>y t is ! =]unn] ( ! milit>y head-dress :i* we are consid]+1 & x consi/$ ( a r$ cap ( clo? ) a b& ( fur r\nd ! edge4 ,z "t w5t on1 ! fur on ! cap1 :i* 0 adopt$ 9 ! end by v>i\s regim5ts1 became wid] & wid]1 & ! orig9al r$ cap got small] & small] until ! =m ( ! mod]n busby 0 rea*$4 ,9 "s cases ev5 ! flap already m5tion$ has gone1 ?\gh ! fact t ! top ( ! busby is made ( clo? in/ead ( fur /ill po9ts to its orig94 7,see ,figures #fj & #fa47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fj4--,! r$ ,hung>ian cap1 :i* 0 ! =]unn] ( ! busby4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fa4--;,a busby 7( ! ,hon\rable ,artill]y ,company7 9 :i* ! cap is a ve/ige only4 ,?\gh we are n discuss+ arm\r at ! mom5t1 we may say :ile speak+ ( milit>y head-dresses t metal helmets are /ill 9 use 9 a few regim5ts4 ,! helmet also ( ! fireman des]ves att5tion1 z x is practically ( ! same type z t worn by ! anci5t ,greeks4 7,see ,figure #fb47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fb4--;,a fireman's helmet 7( ! anci5t ,greek type74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fc4--;,buttons s arrang$ t ! broad brim ( a hat c be fa/5$ to ! cr[n1 ?us =m+ a tempor>y cock 7,hudibras aft] ,hog>?74 ,! cock$ hat %\ld also claim our att5tion1 & x gives u ano!r in/ance ( tempor>y alt]ations :i* h ultimately become p]man5t4 ,! picture ( ,hudibras %[s an e>ly /age 9 ! hi/ory ( cock+4 ,! /r+s :i* connect ! brim ( a bi%op's tall hat to ! cr[n are evid5tly connect$ ) ?is practice4 ,9 ! mod]n cock$ hat m ( ! "r side is turn$ up ?an ( ! left4 ,a little c>eful exam9ation w r5d] its developm5t f ! broad-brimm$ hat easily und]/ood1 :ile ! repres5tatives ( ! hat-b& & ! details ( ! cock+ w be soon discov]$4 ,! cock ( ! hat =m$ a conv5i5t spot 9 :i* to fix an ornam5t1 & ! "n cockade has come to be appli$ to su* an addition1 borne on ! hat1 z a m>k to di/+ui% ! we>]4 ,! "p :i* cockades h play$ 9 hi/ory is consid]able1 b z !y are n[ *iefly associat$ ) ! liv]ies ( m5-s]vants !y w be consid]$ lat] on 9 ! book4 ,be=e1 h[ev]1 we leave1 = ! pres5t1 ! subject ( head cov]+s1 we ought to m5tion t a piece ( wov5 mat]ial z primitively us$ )\t ev5 a re/ra9+ b&1 /ill survives 9 ! %ape ( ! small %awl :i* nor?-c\ntry girls & wom5 v g5]ally we> ov] _! heads4 ,! head-dress ( ! nun is ano!r case 9 po9t1 & recalls t 9 vogue 9 ,tudor times1 :ile ! sun-bonnet ( ! b>ge & m>ket wom51 ?\gh m highly develop$1 /ill consi/s to a consid]able ext5t ( simple drap]y4 ,,vii ,,%oes ,,& ,,/ock+s ,,e>ly ,,foot-,,ge>--,,! ,,orig9 ,,( ,,! ,,clock--,a ,,mod]n ,,imitation ,,( ,,tattoo+--,,gaily ,,col\r$ ,,g>t]s ,_m p]sons /ill g b>efoot1 s t anci5t z foot-ge> may be1 ! /age prec$+ its adoption is ev5 n[ repres5t$4 ,moreov]1 s&als1 :i* are v primitive1 h be5 mu* 9 use ( rec5t ye>s1 & h especially be5 worn by *ildr54 ,if we turn to ord9>y boots & %oes we %all n f9d _m obvi\s po9ts ab\t !m :i* lead up to _! hi/ory4 ,/ill we %all see 9 ! case ( a l>ge numb] t 9 places :]e "o piece ( lea!r laps ov] ano!r1 x is p]=at$ ) r[s ( holes :i* =m a k9d ( simple ornam5tation4 7,see ,figure #fd47 ,! p]=ations d n g ?r\gh ! boot or %oe1 & 9 a ,roman example 9 ! ,briti% ,museum1 :i* is mu* m highly decorat$1 !re are two ?icknesses ( lea!r1 ( :i* ! out] "o only is pi]c$4 7,see ,figure #fe47 ,9 _m cases1 h[ev]1 ! ,roman %oe 0 truly ( op5 "w4 ,x consi/$ ( b "o ?ickness ( lea!r1 & f ?is1 l>ge pieces 7 cut out s z to make a k9d ( lattice4 ,sev]al examples ( ?is k9d ( %oe are exhibit$ at ! ,briti% ,museum1 & we give an illu/ration ( "o ( ^!1 :i* is 9 a v fair /ate ( pres]vation4 7,see ,figure #ff47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fd4--;,a mod]n boot decorat$ ) p]=ations made 9 ! lea!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fe4--;,an ornam5t$ ,roman %oe1 ( two ?icknesses4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ff4--;,a ,roman %oe ( op5-"w lea!r4 ,x seems v probable t ! ornam5tation on our mod]n %oes is a survival ( ! op5 "w :i* 0 9 fav\r ) ! ,romans1 especially z ev5 !n ! ap]tures did n always expose ! foot4 ,9 pre-,roman times 9 ?is c\ntry !re 7 p]=ations 9 "s ( ! %oes :i* 7 useful r ?an ornam5tal1 & "o type 7( :i* a specim5 figur$ by ,fairholt is pres]v$ by ! ,royal ,iri% ,academy7 has surviv$ until rec5tly1 if x is n to be f\nd to-day1 9 ,scotl& & ,irel&4 ,?is %oe 0 made ( raw hide 7see ,figure #fg71 & ! holes1 x is said1 7 int5d$ to all[ ! wat] to pass ?r\gh :5 ! we>] 0 cross+ morasses4 ,an exam9ation ( ! figure w1 h[ev]1 %[ t ! holes are really slits1 & x w\ld appe> t h[ev] useful !y may h prov$ 9 ! way describ$1 !y 7 orig9ally made = q a diff]5t reason4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fg4--;,a hide %oe ( pre-,roman type f ,irel& 7aft] ,fairholt74 ,! mo/ primitive k9d ( %oe w\ld d\btless be a piece ( hide plac$ "u ! foot & br\ght up ov] ! toes & r\nd ! heel4 ,x w\ld make a r unprepossess+ bundle1 & !re w\ld be awkw>d puck]s :]e ! hide 0 ga!r$ up4 ,if ! sup]flu\s mat]ial at ! toe 7 cut away1 we %\ld h a slit 9 e case :]e !re _h previ\sly be5 a fold4 ,?is /ate ( affairs is exactly :at is to be se5 9 ! ,iri% %oe1 :]e ! /rips ( lea!r t are left are held 9 place by a ?ong4 ,9 an +5i\s way1 app>5tly ) ! help ( ! same lace1 ! difficulty ( secur+ a fit at ! heel has also be5 got ov]4 ,! result is a v neat %oe inde$1 ?\gh 9 reality x is only ! orig9al flat piece ( hide4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fh4--,! orig9al top boot ) ! upp] "p tempor>ily turn$ d[n4 ,"o ( ! mo/ p]fect in/ances ( ve/iges1 z ,sir ,george ,d>w9 po9ts out1 is af=d$ by top boots4 ,9 _! orig9al =m1 /ill to be se5 9 our /reets on sew] m51 ! boots 7 made to come above ! knee1 b fa%ion decre$ t ! top %\ld be turn$ back 7see ,figure #fh71 & s x came ab\t t ! inside became visible1 z did also ! tags1 ) ! help ( :i* ! boots 7 pull$ on4 ,:5 ! outside ( ! boots 0 black$ x w\ld =m a di/9ct contra/ to ! inside1 :i* rema9$ br[n1 & 9 mod]n top boots ! diff]5ce 9 col\r has be5 9 _m cases greatly acc5tuat$4 ,inde$1 ! upp] p>ts are made ( diff]5t lea!r1 & z ord9>y coat cuffs are n[ incapable ( be+ turn$ d[n1 ! tops ( ! boots are immovable & _c be turn$ up4 ,x is curi\s1 h[ev]1 t ! tags at ! sides are /ill repres5t$ & sewn to ! boot s z to be q useless1 :ile new tags plac$ inside ! boot n[ d _! duty4 7,see ,figure #fi47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #fi4--;,a mod]n top boot 9 :i* ! upp] "p c no long] be turn$ up4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gj4--,puttees4 ,socks & /ock+s are1 at ! pres5t "t1 ! mo/ usual cov]+s = ! l[] p>ts ( ! legs1 & !re is at lea/ "o ve/ige :i* rema9s 9 _! /ructure t has an int]e/ = u4 ,be=e we consid] ?is1 h[ev]1 we may look at ano!r means ( protect+ ! l[] extremities :i* tells ( m primitive conditions4 ,! leg b&ages s commonly worn by our regul> soldi]s & volunte]s are ! case 9 po9t4 7,see ,figure #gj47 ,^! appe> to h be5 imm$iately d]iv$ f ! ,indian ,army1 & _! "n--puttees--is evid5ce ( ?is2 b su* an arrangem5t is v widespread1 & 0 t g5]ally adopt$ 9 ?is c\ntry 9 ,anglo-,saxon times4 ,our illu/ration is tak5 f an illum9at$ manuscript prep>$ = ,/4 ,ae!lwold = use at ,w9*e/]1 :i* 0 complet$ betwe5 ! ye>s #ifc & #ifd ,a4,d4 ,b&ag$ /ock+s are common on repres5tations ( ,anglo-,saxons1 b accord+ to ,fairholt ! example giv5 %[s !m to great] advantage ?an does any o!r kn[n4 ,! figure 9 "q is dress$ 9 royal co/ume1 & ! b&ages1 :i* are ( gold1 are fa/5$ j bel[ ! knee ) a knot f :i* hang tassels4 7,see ,figure #ga47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ga4--,leg b&ages ( a royal p]sonage at ! end ( ! t5? c5tury 7aft] ,fairholt74 ,x has be5 ?\ght t leg b&ages 7 orig9ally d]iv$ f ! hayb&s :i* peasants wrap r\nd _! legs1 & ! writ] has se5 x /at$ t o/l]s 9 ?is c\ntry /ill p]petuate ! ,anglo-,saxon fa%ion1 ?\gh he has nev] met ) an actual in/ance4 ,! pfif]>i :o "s ye>s ago us$ to play on bagpipes & o!r primitive in/rum5ts 9 our /reets1 wore leg b&ages or loose l95 /ock+s1 & ^! 7 cross-g>t]$ ) b&s :i* held 9 place a simple s&al made ( a piece ( lea!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gb4--;,a /ock+ ) clocks4 ,! ve/ige 9 mod]n /ock+s to :i* allusion has be5 made is v (t5 pres5t1 & takes ! =m ( ! ornam5t :i* we "k z a clock4 ,! "n signifies a gusset1 & 9 mod]n socks & s on1 :i* are wov5 or knitt$ all 9 "o piece1 no su* arrangem5t is to be f\nd4 ,/ock+s1 h[ev]1 l ^? at fir/ worn by ,que5 ,elizabe?1 & us$ at lea/ by ,am]ican settl]s until ! ye> #afge1 7 made up f pieces ( clo?4 ,9 ^! !re w\ld be seams d[n ! sides1 & x is possible t :]e ! ornam5tal l9es meet 9 ,figure #gb !re may h be5 a gusset4 ,9 any case1 x is evid5t t ! int5tion ( ! clock 0 to hide ! side seams4 ,( rec5t ye>s1 :5 ladies h mo/ s5sibly adopt$ %ort skirts1 ! clock has develop$ into a s]ies ( embroid]$ patt]ns :i* cov] ! front ( ! foot & ankle4 ,! p>5tage ( ^! is q evid5t f ! %ape1 :i* is %[n 9 ,figure #gc4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gc4--;,an embroid]$ /ock+ %[+ ! fur!r evolution ( ! clock 7date #aijj74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gd4--;,an op5-"w /ock+ ( #aije4 ,?is ornam5tation has be5 c>ri$ /ill fur!r1 ?\gh x is n produc$ 9 ! same way4 ,! patt]ns1 in/ead ( be+ embroid]$1 are ! result ( p]=ations1 or1 9 m te*nical language1 op5-"w1 & ! backgr\nd :i* %[s up ! design is no long] ! mat]ial ( ! /ock+s1 b ! sk9 ( _! fair we>]s4 7,see ,figure #gd47 ,9 _m cases ! /ock+s are d>k 9 col\r1 & ! effect ( tattoo+ is produc$ )\t ! prelim9>y pa9 & inconv5i5ce4 ,we h "h an in/ance ( ! way 9 :i* ! specially human in/9ct ( decorat+ ! body p]si/s1 & at ! same "t a developm5t ( ! fa%ion = display+1 9 ! daytime "u a ?9 veil ( gauze or lace1 ! necks & arms :i* s9ce ! "t ( our gr&mo!rs h only be5 all[$ to appe> uncov]$ 9 ! ev5+4 ,lea!r /ock+s 7 once worn1 = example1 by ,william ,p5n1 & !y & ! legg+s ( to-day may be a direct survival f ! "t :5 our ance/ors1 ?\gh /ill we>+ sk9s1 _h le>nt to dress !m4 ,legg+s1 z su*1 are possibly connect$ m closely ) ! protection ( man aga9/ man ?an ) t ( man aga9/ ! wea!r1 & 9 t case _! hi/ory is b\nd up ) t ( arm\r4 ,gait]s1 "u ! "n ( spatt]-da%es1 7 orig9ally "p ( a soldi]'s uni=m4 ,to-day1 :5 worn by civilians 9 ord9>y dress1 !y are q %ort1 & g by ! contract$ "n ( spats4 ,p$e/rians /ill we> ! full-siz$ gait]s 9 conjunction ) knick]bock]s1 & :ite gait]s are a feature ( ,highl& regim5ts4 ,long ,flor5t9e hose1 :i* practically took ! place ( tr\s]s & /ock+s toge!r1 are n[ repres5t$ by :at are call$ tights1 & are to be se5 9 ! dress ( acrobats4 ,we %all allude to ^! aga94 ,g>t]s :5 visible on m5's legs become v ornam5tal1 & "o 9 use n[1 m]ely z a decoration1 gave its "n to ! celebrat$ ,ord] ( ,knigh?ood1 among ! insignia ( :i* x is /ill to be f\nd4 ,at ! pres5t day g>t]s are hidd51 & !re is a t5d5cy = !m to be replac$ by m com=table /raps or susp5d]s1 b ^? :i* ladies we> /ill reta9 _! gaudy "*4 ,9 ?is connection an int]e/+ c]emony may be m5tion$1 :i* is c>ri$ 9 ,haute-,vi5ne on ! day ( ,/4 ,eutropius4 ,all ! girls ( ! neighb\rhood troop to ! *ur* d$icat$ to ! sa9t at ,/4 ,juni5-les-,gombes1 & ea* damsel hangs h] left g>t] on ! cross h>d by1 :i* becomes s smo!r$ ) g>t]s ( diff]5t col\rs t :5 se5 f a %ort di/ance x looks z if x 7 cov]$ ) fl[]s4 ,,viii ,,petticoats ,,& ,,tr\s]s ,,! ,,belt$ ,,plaid ,,& ,,kilt--,,e>ly ,,skirts--,,! ,,antiquity ,,( ,,tr\s]s--,,tr\s] ,,/ripes ,we 7 at "s pa9s to trace ! evolution ( ! coat f ! %awl1 & x is possible also to %[ t ! petticoat1 & ?r\gh ?is ev5 tr\s]s1 h equal claims to ! same ance/ry4 ,! plaid z we saw x 9 ,*apt] ,,iii is only a %awl1 & at "o "t 9 ,scotl& x 0 us$ z a cov]+ = practically ! :ole ( ! p]son4 ,x 0 +5i\sly dispos$1 & "p ( x 0 fa/5$ by a belt r\nd ! wai/ s z to =m a k9d ( kilt or petticoat4 ,h5ce arose ! "n ( belt$ plaid4 ,x seems to h ne$$ a consid]able am\nt ( practice to put on ?is g>m5t prop]ly1 & ! me?od cu/om>ily adopt$ by ! we>] 0 to spread ! plaid on ! gr\nd &1 aft] duly arrang+ x 9 its prop] folds1 to lie d[n ^u x & fix x ) ! belt4 ,"s races seem to h recogniz$ v mu* e>li] t x w\ld be m conv5i5t to sep>ate ! kilt f ! upp] g>m5t4 ,9 fact1 if we exam9e ! wov5 g>m5ts :i* ! ,dani% *iefta9 wore "u 8 de]-sk9 cloak1 at a "t be=e ! use ( iron _h spread to ,we/]n ,europe1 we f9d t r\nd 8 lo9s he _h a small %awl held 9 place by a girdle4 7,see ,figure #ge47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ge4--;,a %awl us$ z a kilt by a *iefta9 ( ,d5m>k 9 ! bronze /age ( culture 7aft] ,worsaae74 ,! next /age 9 ! evolution ( ! petticoat w\ld be *>act]iz$ by ! p]man5t jo9+ ( ! edges ( ! clo?1 s t a g>m5t w\ld be =m$ :i* resembl$ ! l[] "p ( ! tubul> tunic :i* play$ its "p 9 ! evolution ( ! %irt or coat4 ,su* a /ate ( affairs is to be se5 9 ! simple skirt ( ! ,dani% *iefta9ess ^: bodice we h already describ$4 7,see page #ah47 ,"h ! petticoat 0 n %ap$ 9 any way at ! top1 b 0 ga!r$ 9 r\nd ! wai/ & fa/5$ z 9 ! case ( ! man ) a girdle4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gf4--;,a simple dress 9 ! =m ( a petticoat f an ,egyptian figure ( ! ,six? ,dyna/y 7#cejj ,b4,c471 f ! ,my]s collection 9 ,eton ,college ,museum4 ,9 a w>m climate x w\ld be easy to disp5se ) a cov]+ = ! upp] "p ( ! body1 & "o ( ! simple/ dresses imag9able 0 adopt$ 9 anci5t ,egypt4 ,?is co/ume is to be se5 on ! figure ( a woman belong+ to ! ,six? ,dyna/y 7#cejj ,b4,c471 :i* we h already m5tion$ :5 trac+ ! developm5t ( ! hat-b& & ribbons4 7,see ,figure #de47 ,9 ?is in/ance !re is a simple tight-fitt+ skirt rea*+ to ! wai/ or a little above x1 :i* is support$ by two /raps pass+ betwe5 ! b>e brea/s & ov] ! o!rwise nak$ %\ld]s4 7,see ,figure #gf47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gg4--;,a ,korean s]vant 7aft] ,h\gh74 ,x seems c]ta91 z 9 ! orig9al c>v+ ! woman is %[n ) a burd5 on h] head & 9 ! act ( driv+ a calf be=e h]1 t %e is a repres5tative ( ! peasant class4 ,9 ! ,korea at ! pres5t day1 wom5 ( ! l[] ord]s1 al?\gh !y adopt a jacket :i* cov]s _! arms & %\ld]s1 we> s %ort an "o t z !re is no g>m5t b5ea? x leaves _! brea/s q b>e4 7,see ,figure #gg47 ,su* an arrangem5t w\ld obvi\sly facilitate ! nurs+ ( *ildr51 & ?is fact has be5 advanc$ z ! reason = its adoption4 ,/ill x may be m]ely a fa%ion su* z "s wom51 at ! o!r end ( ! social scale1 once adopt$ 9 our non-tropical c\ntry4 ,9 ! "t ( ,james ,i ( ,engl&1 ! noble ladies1 :ile !y wore an exagg]at$ ruff r\nd _! necks1 nev]!less _h _! dresses cut away f j bel[ x almo/ to _! wai/s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gh4--;,a %ort kilt4 ,! %ort kilt n[ worn 9 ,scotl& repres5ts ! l[] "p ( ! belt$ plaid1 & is 9 fact a petticoat & specially int]e/+1 see+ t x is a survival ( ?is type z a man's g>m5t4 ,( ! orig9 ( ! sporran :i* is worn 9 front ( ! kilt1 little seems to be kn[n1 & ?\gh x recalls to m9d ! "t :5 m5 7 clo!d 9 sk9s1 x =ms a p\* z well z an ornam5t1 & possibly also may h be5 useful z a protection4 7,see ,figure #gh47 ,hav+ once d]iv$ ! petticoat1 h[ev]1 f ! ance/ral %awl1 x is a v simple matt] to proce$ & evolve a pair ( tr\s]s4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 ! ,ea/]n wom51 :5 !y fa/5 _! petticoats betwe5 _! ankles = conv5i5ce 9 walk+1 demon/rate ! fir/ /age 9 ! production ( bifurcat$ g>m5ts4 ,a s+le r[ ( /it*es w give rise to a k9d ( divid$ skirt1 :ile two seams & a s+le cut made betwe51 & p>allel1 to !m1 w produce a pair ( tr\s]s4 ,x w\ld be /range if s simple a process1 :i* "u _m conditions results 9 su* a great improvem5t1 _h n be5 put into practice 9 v e>ly times1 & tr\s]s1 al?\gh !y seem to typify ! ugl9ess ( mod]n co/ume1 are 9 reality surr\nd$ by a halo ( antiquity4 ,x is only "r1 h[ev]1 to po9t out t ^! tubul> g>m5ts 7 9 old5 days n associat$ ) ! highe/ civilization4 ,! ,romans1 = in/ance1 did n we> tr\s]s1 ?\gh ! nations :om !y 7 pleas$ to call b>b>ians1 did4 ,"s ( ! enemies ( ,rome are %[n on ,trajan's column we>+ ne!r g>m5ts ( ! k9d mo/ famili> to u1 & our illu/ration is tak5 f ! repres5tation ( a b>b>ian soldi] c>v$ on an ivory dipty* ( ,/4 ,paul4 7,see ,figure #gi47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #gi4--;,a b>b>ian soldi] we>+ *>act]i/ic tr\s]s 7f a dipty* ( ,/4 ,paul1 aft] ,m>riott74 ,! kilt is sometimes call$ ! g>b ( old ,gaul1 b "o prov9ce ( ! latt] owes its "n--,gallia ,braccata--to ! cu/om among its inhabitants ( we>+ bracc or bree*es4 ,9 our own c\ntry tr\s]s 7 9 vogue be=e ! adv5t ( ! ,roman conqu]ors1 & ?\gh = a "t ! dress ( ! invad]s 0 adopt$ by ^? :o foll[$ _! fa%ions1 we f9d t 9 ! "t ( ! ,saxons & ,normans ! b>b>ian /yle f\nd fav\r once m4 ,9 ! picture ( a ,saxon fight+ man 7see ,figure #hj71 we see t he we>s tr\s]s t some:at recall ^? ( ! mod]n sailor1 & !re seem to h be5 _m diff]5t /yles ev5 9 ^? e>ly days4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hj4--;,a ,saxon milit>y man we>+ wide tr\s]s 7f ! ,h>leian ,,ms41 ,no4 #fjc1 aft] ,fairholt74 ,dur+ ! c\rse ( our hi/ory1 long tr\s]s w5t out ( fa%ion = a v consid]able p]iod1 ?\gh knee-bree*es ( v>i\s k9ds fl\ri%$ f "t to "t1 until rec5tly1 :5 ! orig9al & less elegant g>m5t once m triumph$ & became "p ( ! ev]yday dress ( m54 ,boys /ill we> knick]bock]s 9 "o /age ( _! developm5t1 int]m$iate betwe5 ! d(f+ ( ! petticoat & ! donn+ ( ! tr\s]1 & !re is a t5d5cy1 t does n dim9i%1 = ! %ort] g>m5ts to be us$ by m5 ( all ages :5 !y are n occupi$ ) =mal bus9ess4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ha4--;,a peasant woman ( ,*ampry we>+ tr\s]s4 ,tr\s]s are (t5 wrongly ?\ght to be a mod]n inv5tion1 & x is easy to g away ) ! idea t !y are exclusively ! attributes ( m54 ,?is is f> f be+ ! case1 & z 9 ,scotl& we f9d ! petticoat /ill 9 use by m51 s 9 ,france & ,switz]l& 7see ,figure #ha7 we see ! peasant woman we>+ tr\s]s ( ! ord9>y type1 to say no?+ ( ,ori5tal c\ntries l ,p]sia & ,siam 7see ,plate ,v71 :]e tr\s]s =m "p ( ! dress ( wom5 ev5 ( ! highe/ rank4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,siamese ,,pr9cess1 ,,%ew+ ,,! ,,tr\s]s ,,worn ,,by ,,wom5 ,,( ,,high ,,rank4 ,,plate ,v4 ,we mu/ n =get ! en]getic crusade :i* is be+ c>ri$ on 9 ?is c\ntry 9 fav\r ( rational dress = wom51 on l9es :i* are m s5sible ?an ^? laid d[n by ,mrs4 ,bloom]1 ^: "n has be5 immortaliz$ 9 connection ) divid$ g>m5ts = wom54 ,x is n int5d$1 at ! mom5t1 to ent] into a discussion ( ! advantages t may be ga9$ by bani%+ ! skirt1 z we %all consid] clo!s1 f ! po9t ( view ( _! effect ^u ! body1 9 a lat] *apt]4 ,suffice x to say t ! ugly clo!s worn a few ye>s ago by lady bicycli/s :o1 :ile adopt+ divid$ g>m5ts1 tri$ to make !m look l a skirt1 did mu* to h9d] ! rational dress movem5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hb4--;,a ,g]man ,huss> ( #ahjh4 ,!re is "o ve/ige 9 connection ) tr\s]s t we may m5tion be=e leav+ ?is subject1 & t is ! /ripes :i* are to be se5 on _m (ficial dresses1 & :i* h be5 adopt$ by "s m5 9 _! ev5+ dress ( rec5t ye>s4 ,x seems t ?is takes u back to a r[ ( buttons :i* 7 once us$ along ! :ole l5g? ( ! bree*es :5 ^! 7 too tight = ! foot to be put ?r\gh !m1 & 9 consequ5ce !y _h to be undone & done up aga9 along ! side ( ! leg4 7,see ,figure #hb47 ,!re is little d\bt b t ! /ripe repres5ts a fold ( clo? t 9 "s cases cov]$ up ^! buttons4 ,j a few ( su* buttons are /ill to be se5 on rid+ bree*es & ^? worn by liv]i$ s]vants4 ,,ix ,,coats ,,( ,,arms ,,signet ,,r+s--,,armorial ,,be>+s--,,escut*eons--,,cre/s--,,badges ,be=e we deal ) cov]+s = ! h&1 x w n be amiss to consid] some?+ else :i* is worn on ! f+]s4 ,/rictly speak+1 ( c\rse1 r+s %\ld be reckon$ z ornam5ts1 b signet r+s v (t5 be> ^u !m ! cre/ or coat ( arms ( _! we>]1 & ?us we h /ill c>ri$ on ! p]son at ! pres5t day1 a small & inconspicu\s ve/ige ( :at 7 once mo/ important articles ( co/ume4 ,9 fact1 !y _h a significance z great if n great] ?an any o!rs1 = :5 ! face ( _! we>] 0 hidd5 by 8 helmet1 !y told to ^? well v]s$ 9 h]aldry n only 8 "n b 8 l9eage4 ,! cre/ 0 worn on ! helmet1 & might or might n be "o ( ! devices or *>ges embroid]$ on ! surcoat1--:i* 0 worn ov] ! arm\r--& emblazon$ on ! %ield & else:]e4 ,at ! pres5t day1 except 9 ! case ( c]emonial dress su* z ! tab>ds ( h]alds1 ! only survivals are ! cre/ & %ield4 ,! devices on ! latt] are n[ call$ a coat ( arms1 z 9 old5 times !y 71 z already indicat$1 m]ely a repetition ( ^? actually worn on ! dress or coat arm\r4 ,let u comp>e = a mom5t ! fir/ two figures :i* illu/rate ?is *apt]4 ,9 ! fir/ 7see ,figure #hc7 we h a t9y device engrav$ on a r+ t is worn on ! little f+] ( ! left h&4 ,9 ! second 7see ,figure #hd7 we h ,sir ,ge(frey ,l\tt]ell m\nt$ on 8 *>g] 9 ! act ( receiv+ 8 helmet & %ield f "s ( ! ladies belong+ to 8 family4 ,all ( ! figures & ! horse are decorat$ ) armorial be>+s4 ,we wond] :e!r !re c\ld be a great] contra/4 ,! knight has :at is really 8 surcoat on 8 back display+ six m>tlets ) a b5d betwe5 !m4 ,! *>ges are repeat$ on a small squ>e %ield on 8 %\ld] call$ an ailette1 :i* 0 us$ app>5tly m z an ornam5t ?an z a protection1 ?\gh x is said t ailettes 7 orig9ally int5d$ z a def5ce = ! neck4 ,sir ,ge(frey holds 8 helmet1 on :i*1 9 ! place ( ! cre/1 we aga9 see 8 armorial be>+s4 ,!y appe> aga9 on ! pavon or small flag held by "o ( ! ladies1 & on ! %ield :i* ! o!r c>ries4 ,we f9d ! same devices repeat$ five times on ! trapp+s ( 8 *>g]2 & z if ?is 7 n en\gh1 ! ladies also h ! be>+s on _! dresses4 ,9 ! case ( ,lady ,l\tt]ell1 :o 0 ! daught] ( ,sir ,ri*>d ,sutton1 !re is %[n also ! lion rampant borne by h] fa!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hc4--,! cre/ on a mod]n signet r+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hd4--,sir ,ge(frey ,l\tt]ell & ! ladies ( 8 family1 %[+ ! ext5t to :i* armorial be>+s 7 worn 9 ! middle ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,f a psalt]1 made = ,sir ,ge(frey 7aft] ,fairholt74 ,we give ano!r illu/ration tak5 f ! effigy ( ,h5ry1 ! fir/ ,duke ( ,lanca/]1 on a brass at ,elsyng1 9 ,norfolk4 7,see ,figure #he47 ,on ?is figure ! surcoat is v well %[n1 & on x are emblazon$ ! ?ree lions 7or leop>ds7 ( ! ,royal ,arms ( ,engl&4 ,x is int]e/+1 too1 ow+ to ! label :i* diff]5ces ! arms & %[s t ! we>] 0 n ! k+ himself4 ,! label takes ! =m ( ?ree v]tical b>s jo9$ by a horizontal "o1 & is l t :i* may be se5 to-day on ! ,pr9ce ( ,wales's bann] 9 ,/4 ,george's ,*apel at ,w9dsor4 ,9 ?is illu/ration1 too 7,figure #he71 ! cre/ is v well %[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #he4--,! cre/ & surcoat ( ,h5ry1 fir/ ,duke ( ,lanca/]1 ,a4,d4 #acdg4 ,f ! brass to ,sir ,hugh ,ha/+ at ,elsyng1 ,norfolk 7aft] ,*>les ,b\tell74 ,armorial be>+s are /ill us$ to a consid]able ext5t 9 ar*itecture1 b o!rwise !y are *iefly conf9$ to notepap]1 c>riage panels1 & h>ness4 ,occasionally hat*m5ts1 or m prop]ly a*ievem5ts1 are put ^u ! fronts ( ! h\ses ( important p on ! dea? ( a memb] ( ! family1 & aft]w>ds transf]r$ to ! *ur* 9 :i* ! body is buri$4 ,! hat*m5t consi/s ( ! arms ( ! deceas$ p]son1 pa9t$ on a loz5ge-%ap$ field1 :i* is surr\nd$ by a black frame1 & if x indicates ! dea? ( a husb&1 ! "r half ( ! field is sable 7black71 ! left1 arg5t 7silv]74 ,if x is a wife t is dead1 ! col\rs on ! field are rev]s$4 ,:5 a wid[]1 wid[1 or unm>ri$ p]son dies1 ! :ole ( ! field is made black4 ,9 old5 times ! actual helmet1 surcoat1 & %ield 7 c>ri$ at ! fun]al1 & 9 "s in/ances ^! 7 deposit$ ov] ! tomb ( ! deceas$4 ,examples survive to ! pres5t day1 & "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ cases is to be f\nd 9 ,cant]bury ,ca!dral1 :]e ! %ield1 helmet1 & surcoat ( ,edw>d ! ,black ,pr9ce are /ill to be se54 7,see ,figures #hf1 #hg1 & #hh47 ,! ,black ,pr9ce left mo/ c>eful in/ructions 9 8 w ) reg>d to 8 fun]al1 & ! acc\trem5ts :i* we are able to figure ?r\gh ! k9dness ( ! ,society ( ,antiqu>ies1 7 ! arms ( w>1 z he call$ !m1 t 7 to be c>ri$ at ! c]emony4 ,8 arms ( peace consi/$ ( 8 o/ri* fea!r badge1 ( :i* we %all aga9 speak4 ,!re are traces on ! cre/ & surcoat ( a label to di/+ui% !m1 b ?is is abs5t f ! %ield1 ?\gh x occurs on ! arms _m times repeat$ on ! tomb1 alt]nately ) ! fea!r badge already m5tion$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hf4--,! helmet & cre/ ( ! ,black ,pr9ce4 ,f ,vetu/a ,monum5ta 7aft] ,/4 ,john ,hope74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hg4--,! %ield ( ! ,black ,pr9ce4 ,f ,vetu/a ,monum5ta 7aft] ,/4 ,john ,hope74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hh4--,! surcoat or jupon ( ! ,black ,pr9ce4 ,f ,vetu/a ,monum5ta 7aft] ,/4 ,john ,hope74 ,) ! exception ( ! signet r+s & ! c]emonial dress1 :i* 7 allud$ to at ! beg9n+ ( ! *apt]1 !re are n[ b few cases :]e armorial be>+s are worn on ! p]son4 ,s*ool & college arms are embroid]$ on ! brea/ pockets ( blaz]s & on ! fronts ( caps1 :ile p]haps ! mo/ common in/ances are ! devices :i* we see on ! buttons ( s]vants4 ,:ole coats ( arms may appe>1 b usually x is ! cre/ ( ! ma/]1 :i* has n[ tak5 ! place ( ! h\sehold badge :i* ! reta9]s wore 9 old5 times4 ,!re is a diff]5ce g5]ally betwe5 a cre/ & a badge1 ?\gh 9 "s cases ! badge 0 really a cre/4 ,?is 0 s be=e armorial be>+s became h]$it>y1 = ! badge :i* ! knight wore on 8 helmet =m$ its cre/4 ,aft]w>ds ! same device 0 h&$ d[n to g5]ation f g5]ation4 ,individuals1 possibly ) a view ( hid+ _! id5tity1 sometimes wore a special badge in/ead ( _! family cre/2 b ! badge z g5]ally und]/ood 01 z has already be5 indicat$1 worn by ! reta9]s & 0 usually *os5 by ea* head ( ! family4 ,! matt] is fur!r complicat$1 because badges 7 sometimes h]$it>y & occasionally id5tical ) ! cre/ prop]4 ,x is ( c\rse only ! h]$it>y badges :i* h surviv$ to ! pres5t day1 & 9 only "o or two cases are !y app>5tly /ill us$ z su*1 ?\gh occasionally !y survive = o!r purposes4 ,! ,pr9ce ( ,wales's fea!rs we h already m5tion$4 ,!y 7 n adopt$ by ! ,black ,pr9ce = ! reasons usually giv5 9 hi/ory1 z !re is no?+ to %[ t ! ,k+ ( ! ,bohemians ev] wore !m1 & long be=e 8 "t an o/ri* fea!r 0 (t5 us$ z a royal badge 9 ,engl&4 ,on 8 c>riage1 ! ,m>quis ( ,ab]gav5ny we>s 8 badges1 a rose & a portcullis1 "o on ea* side ( 8 cre/1 & !re are int]e/+ cases "h & !re ( badges worn z "p ( a liv]y4 ,! port]s ( ! ,inn] ,temple we> ! pascal lamb 9 silv]4 ,wat]m5 /ill h badges on _! arms1 & n v long ago ! private firem5 ( ! insurance companies wore badges be>+ ! sign ( ! company4 ,:5 speak+ ( signs1 x is wor?y ( note t v _m royal badges h furni%$ signs = inns4 ,we _c g into details1 b we may m5tion ! ,:ite ,h>t ( ,ri*>d ,,ii1 ! ,falcon & ,fett]lock ( ,h5ry ,,vii1 n[ deg5]at$ into ! hawk & buckle1 & ! ,rose & ,cr[n also us$ by ! ,tudors4 ,^? :o *ance to see ! dress ( our convicts w h>dly be incl9$ to associate x 9 any way ) t ( royalty4 ,yet x is true1 nev]!less1 t ! broad arr[ :i* m>ks--we c h>dly say adorns--! g>m5ts ( ! p5it5ti>y1 is 9 reality a royal badge4 ,! broad arr[ c be trac$ to an anci5t symbol consi/+ ( ?ree conv]g+ rods or rays ( light us$ by ! ,druids1 & x 0 adopt$ by ,edw>d ,,iii z 8 badge4 ,! symbol 0 also worn by ! ,black ,pr9ce & o!r ,pr9ces ( ,wales4 ,z e>ly z ! ye> #achf ! broad arr[ 0 us$ 9 ! ,royal h\sehold1 & f ! beg9n+ ( ! eighte5? c5tury onw>ds x 0 adopt$ z a m>k = di/+ui%+ ,gov]nm5t /ores4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #hi4--,! po/ilion ( a ,"l ,mayor ( ,london1 we>+ a cre/ ^u 8 cap1 & a coat ( arms ^u 8 sleeve4 7,copi$ by p]mission f a plate publi%$ by ! ,john ,williamson ,co41 ,ltd47 ,we may conclude our rem>ks ^u ?is fasc9at+ subject by allud+ to a case 9 :i* a cre/ is actually borne on ! head4 ,x w be se5 on look+ at ,figure #hi1 :i* repres5ts ! po/ilion ( a ,"l ,mayor ( ,london1 t he we>s ^u 8 jockey cap ! actual cre/ ( 8 ma/]1 9 ! same way t 9 ! days ( *ivalry ! knights wore _! cre/s ^u _! helmets4 ,on 8 sleeve also !re is a full coat ( arms ) helmet & cre/1 :i* takes ! place ( ! badge1 & is simil> to ! in/ances :i* we h m5tion$ j above4 ,x ,,gloves ,,& ,,mitt5s ,,orig9 ,,( ,,! ,,baby',s ,,glove--,,f\r*ettes--,,! ,,po9ts ,,on ,,! ,,backs ,,( ,,gloves ,gloves play a consid]able "p 9 our ev]yday life1 & n[ ex]cise a k9d ( mild tyranny ov] u4 ,x is p]haps n to be wond]$ at1 see+ ! importance :i* has be5 atta*$ to ^! protectors ( ! h& 9 ! pa/4 ,records %[ t 9 ! e>lie/ gloves !re 7 no divisions betwe5 ! f+]s1 & only ! ?umbs _h a sep>ate cov]+4 ,?is is :at "o might h expect$ to be ! case1 & if we look at ! gloves :i* t9y babies we> 7see ,figure #ij71 we %all f9d a simil> /ate ( affairs1 s t "h we h a direct survival f v e>ly times4 ,su* a case is on all f\rs ) t ( "y animals :i* belong to species t orig9ally 7 spott$ l ! leop>d1 b :i* 9 ! c\rse ( _! evolution h *ang$ _! spots1 & are n[1 l ! lion1 self-col\r$4 ,among o!r animals :i* are spott$ :5 immature may be m5tion$ ! wild bo> & ! tapir 7see ,frontispiece74 ,:ile ^! "y ones are protect$ by _! p>5ts1 _! primitive col\r+ is no detrim5t to !m1 b :5 !y g out into ! _w = !mselves x w\ld be disadvantage\s "u exi/+ conditions = !m to reta9 _! aborig9al m>k+s4 ,9 a simil> way ! baby we>s ! primitive glove1 :i* its ance/ors made %ift to use = purposes ( w>m? or protection1 & ! *ild cont9ues to d s until x is necess>y or conv5i5t = x to use its f+]s to help itself )\t remov+ its gloves4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ij4--;,a baby's glove )\t sep>ate f+]s4 ,!re is little d\bt b t gloves are ! products ( a cold climate1 & x is int]e/+ to note t 9 ,icel&1 :]e 9 ord] t gloves may be put on quickly & easily !y are made )\t f+]s2 & :at is m1 s t no "t %all be wa/$ 9 *oos+ "r or left-h& gloves1 !y are provid$ ) two ?umbs1 "o ( :i* is 9 use :ile ! o!r rema9s idle4 ,( ve/iges1 gloves (f] a v curi\s in/ance4 ,!re are on ! backs ( mo/ ( !m1 at ! pres5t day1 ?ree l9es ( rais$ embroid]y or fancy /it*+1 :i* run almo/ p>allel ) "o ano!r1 ?\gh !y conv]ge slightly z !y approa* ! wri/4 ,:5 ^! are work$ 9 black on ! back ( a :ite wooll5 glove1 = in/ance1 !y are v conspicu\s1 & to expla9 _! orig9 may well seem puzzl+4 7,see ,figure #ia47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ia4--,! back ( a wooll5 glove %[+ ! ?ree ve/iges kn[n z po9ts4 ,inquiry into ! hi/ory ( ^! mo/ p]si/5t ornam5ts is apt to produce a f9e crop ( speculations4 ,"o explanation t may be (f]$ is t ! l9es are ve/iges t date f ! "t :5 gloves 7 s ill-fitt+ t !y _h to be lac$ up ! back ) ! help ( a /r+ :i* 0 pass$ ?r\gh eyelet holes4 ,on he>+ ?is "o might be tempt$ to ask :y !re %\ld be ?ree ornam5ts & n "o4 ,ano!r guess :i* c be m easily %[n to be wrong is t we are deal+ ) ! rema9s ( v5tilation holes4 ,we say m easily because an exam9ation ( ! facts w %[ t op5+s ?r\gh :i* air 0 int5d$ to ent] 7 made 9 ! palm ( ! glove4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ib4--;,a mod]n kid glove %[+ ! f\r*ettes or pieces betwe5 ! f+]s1 :i* =m ?ree po9t$ ,v's4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ic4--,que5 ,elizabe?'s coronation glove %[+ ! /it*+ c>ri$ d[n on to ! back4 7,f a photograph by ! c\rtesy ( ,messrs4 ,f[nes ,bro!rs & ,co47 ,a ?ird sugge/ion :i* may occur1 is t ! ornam5tation is a survival f ! "t :5 great m51 p>ticul>ly prelates1 _h v>i\s devices & ev5 jewels fix$ to ! back ( _! gloves4 ,once m1 h[ev]1 we meet ) ! difficulty 9 ! %ape ( ! po9t t !re are always ?ree ( ! m>ks4 ,9 mak+ a c>eful inve/igation into ! true orig9 ( ! ve/iges we c1 on ! "o side1 endeav\r to see :e!r !re is any?+ 9 ! =m ( ! h& :i* c h giv5 rise to ! numb] ?ree1 t is s con/ant2 & on ! o!r1 :e!r ! glove-mak]s h any p>ticul> "n = ! m>ks :i* may ?r[ "s light ^u !m4 ,9 connection ) ! fir/ l9e ( rese>*1 x w be se5 on spread+ out ! f+]s t !re are1 if we ignore ! ?umb :i* has its ins]tion l[] d[n 9 ! h&1 ?ree ,v-%ap$ op5+s betwe5 !m1 & we f9d on tak+ up our second clue t ! ornam5ts are call$ po9ts4 ,n[ !re is a po9t at ! bottom ( a ,v1 & ?is is well se5 9 look+ at a glove :]e ! pieces or f\r*ettes :i* =m ! insides ( ! f+]s meet 7see ,figure #ib72 b if ?is is evid5t 9 a mod]n glove1 x is v mu* m s 9 old gloves4 7,see ,figure #ic47 ,a result ( ?is fact 0 t ! /it*+ :i* made ! f+]s 0 c>ri$ d[n = "s di/ance on to ! back ( ! glove1 z se5 9 ,que5 ,elizabe?'s coronation glove4 7,see ,figure #ic47 ,?is /it*+ 0 & is (t5 some:at elaborate1 & 9 "s cases a l9e ( embroid]y cov]$ x4 ,?is is well se5 9 ! glove ( ,anne1 ! ,que5 ,consort ( ,james ,i 7see ,figure #id72 & "h x is noticeable t ! two l9es ( embroid]y at ! po9ts ( ! ?ree ,v's run p>allel & t\*+ ea* o!r1 s t we get a beg9n+ ( ! ?ree po9ts z we "k !m4 ,) improvem5ts 9 ! mak+ ( ! f\r*ettes1 ! /it*+ t]m9at$ m abruptly1 & ! embroid]y 0 all[$ to rema9 on ! back ( ! glove1 :]e x is /ill to be se54 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #id4--,! glove ( ,anne1 ,que5 ,consort ( ,james ,i1 %[+ ! embroid]y on ! f+]s1 :i* is ! ance/or ( mod]n po9ts4 7,f a photograph1 by ! c\rtesy ( ,messrs4 ,f[nes ,bro!rs & ,co47 ,"s m5tion %\ld p]haps be made ( mitt5s4 ,:5 !y are us$ = ! purpose ( keep+ ! h&s w>m1 !y are usually on ! pr9ciple ( a baby's glove1 b ) ! end ( ! ?umb & "p ( ! bag = ! f+]s cut (f4 ,o!rwise1 :5 ^! articles are us$ m]ely to cov] "p ( ! h&s1 or = ornam5t1 !y are m elaborate1 & divisions are introduc$ = "s di/ance betwe5 ! f+]s4 ,9 ! con/ruction ( ^!1 z 9 t ( /ock+s & o!r g>m5ts1 we meet ) ! mod]n t5d5cy t[>ds transp>5cy4 ,(t5 also ! patt]ns are dep5d5t ^u ! sk9 %[+ ?r\gh1 & we are once m rem9d$ ( tattoo+4 ,,xi ,,tags1 ,,p9s1 ,,& ,,baldrics ,,laces--,,! ,,evolution ,,& ,,vag>ies ,,( ,,! ,,safety-,,p9--,,primitive ,,me?ods ,,( ,,c>ry+ ,,burd5s ,,z ,,illu/rat$ ,,by ,,muff-,,*a9s1 ,,baldrics1 ,,& ,,yokes ,dur+ ! c\rse ( _! evolution _m little appurt5ances 9 connection ) dress g ?r\gh a numb] ( *anges4 ,"s ( !m1 :i* at fir/ are useful1 aft]w>ds become ornam5tal4 ,o!rs1 :i* h rea*$ a /age 9 :i* !y are bo? necess>y & decorative1 may = a "t be simplifi$ & reta9 a practical importance only1 :ile at a lat] p]iod !y resume _! ornam5tal "* once m4 ,we h at ! pres5t day v>i\s laces :i* are provid$ ) simple metal tags1 & :i* are z primitive z !y v well c be4 7,see ,figure #ie47 ,if we exam9e ! dresses ( bo? sexes 9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies1 we %all f9d t ties 7 us$ to a great ext5t in/ead ( buttons1 & !y 7 provid$ ) metal tags ( an ornam5tal "* call$ aiglets1 or1 m prop]ly1 aiguillettes4 ,9 _m cases ! *ief object ( ! ribbons :i* !y adorn$ 0 t ( embelli%m5t1 = z _m z a doz5 or m might be f\nd r\nd "o knee4 ,sometimes ! tags 7 9 ! =m ( little figures1 & 9 ! ,tam+ ( ! ,%rew x is said ( ,petru*io t if y gave him gold en\gh any "o might m>ry him to a puppet or an aglet-baby4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ie4--;,a silk lace ) simple metal tags4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #if4--,ornam5tal metal tags on a velvet neck ribbon4 ,( rec5t ye>s ! velvet ribbons :i* ladies h worn r\nd _! necks h be5 provid$ 9 l mann] ) little tags 7see ,figure #if71 ?\gh ! fa%ion does n seem to h develop$ aga9 to any v great ext5t4 ,! safety-p9 is an object :i* may well occupy our att5tion = a mom5t4 ,z we knew x :5 we 7 *ildr51 x 0 m]ely a piece ( wire t _h be5 po9t$ at "o end & b5t into ! requir$ %ape4 7,see ,figure #ig47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ig4--;,a simple safety-p94 ,! po9t 0 protect$ 9 a v simple mann]1 & ! safety-p9s us$ = fa/5+ hooks to curta9s are /ill con/ruct$ 9 ! same way4 ,occasionally gold safety-p9s ( a pla9 & ev5 ornam5tal "* 7 made & us$ z broo*es by ladies = fa/5+ lace1 or by m5 = secur+ _! ties 9 ! place ( ! /raight sc>f-p9s4 ,x w\ld seem !re=e t a broo* is a developm5t ( ! safety-p9 r ?an ! rev]se2 b if we /udy ! broo*es or fibul ( ! ,romans1 we %all f9d t ! p91 in/ead ( be+ h+$1 0 (t5 made 9 "o piece ) ! re/ ( ! /ructure4 ,a coil or two 9 ! metal act$ z a spr+1 z 9 ! case ( ! safety-p91 & prev5t$ breakage4 ,we may ev5 f9d an ,etruscan fibula ( su* simple con/ruction 7see ,figure #ih7 t x is to all int5ts & purposes a safety-p94 ,all sorts ( devices h be5 inv5t$ = ! bett] protection ( ! po9ts 9 mod]n safety-p9s1 z well z = r5d]+ ! op5+ & clos+ m easy2 b ?is is ! developm5t :i* has tak5 place along practical l9es4 ,su* p9s are = use only1 & are n int5d$ to be se54 ,:51 on ! o!r h&1 safety-p9s are n hidd51 !y reta9 _! m simple "* z reg>ds _! fa/5+s1 ?\gh !y !mselves aga9 become decorative1 & are ornam5t$ 9 v>i\s ways4 ,we h !re=e a v good illu/ration ( ! evolution ( "o ?+ along two diff]5t l9es1 & ( ! survival ( ! fitte/ types 9 ea* case4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ih4--;,an ,etruscan broo* or fibula1 resembl+ a safety-p94 7,9 ! collection ( ,major ,w4 ,j4 ,my]s 9 ,eton ,college ,museum47 ,! ornam5tal safety-p9 9 rec5t ye>s has *ang$ its habits1 & x is int]e/+ to note its vag>ies4 ,a little :ile ago its sph]e ( action 0 ext5d$1 & in/ead ( figur+ "u ! *9s ( ladies x took up a position 9 ! back ( _! wai/b&s 7see ,figure #ii71 :]e x occupi$ itself ) ! duty ( keep+ bl\se & skirt toge!r4 ,!n1 z if ?is situation 7 n important en\gh1 ! safety-p9 migrat$ to ! head & usurp$ ! place ( ! /raight hat-p9 7see ,figure #ajj71 j z 9 ! case ( m5 x has sometimes ou/$ ! tie-p9 prop]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ii4--,! safety-p9 9 ! wai/b&4 ,dur+ ! process :i* we h describ$ ! safety-p9 has become /rong] & l>g]1 until 9 ! la/ /age x has gr[n almo/ out ( recognition4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajj4--,! safety-p9 gr[n l>g] & us$ = fa/5+ on a hat4 ,/raight p9s h develop$ along ! same two l9es1 & we h ! /rictly useful p9 & tie- or hat-p9s1 :i* are (t5 q z important z fa/5+s1 b :i* may also be highly ornam5tal4 ,^! small articles h a special claim to our att5tion1 z !y h be5 tak5 z be+ emblematical ( clo!s1 or at lea/ ( female attire4 ,ev5 n[ ! all[ance :i* a lady is giv5 = dress is call$ p9-money4 ,moreov]1 x is possible to illu/rate by means ( p9s ! v>i\s phases ( culture ?r\gh :i* mank9d has pass$ 9 ! process ( civilization4 ,we meet ) p9s ( bone1 9 ! /age ( /one1 be=e metals 7 us$4 ,9 ! /age *>act]iz$ by bronze we h p9s made ( ?is alloy4 ,su* p9s occurr$ 9 ,egypt be=e ! hi/oric p]iod1 & !y h be5 f\nd 9 ! ,swiss lake dwell+s z well z 9 our own c\ntry4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aja4--;,a muff-*a94 ,al?\gh we n[ live 9 ! iron1 or p]haps m correctly /eel1 /age ( culture1 ! famili> p9 ( to-day is /ill usually made ( brass2 b nev]!less we f9d /eel p9s ( ! ord9>y =m :i* are plat$ ) brass1 & glass-head$ /eel p9s are v common4 ,9 e>ly times also gold1 silv]1 & preci\s /ones 7 press$ into s]vice = mak+ ornam5tal p9s1 & v h&some p9s are repres5t$ on effigies ( ! f\rte5? c5tury 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey4 ,^!1 no d\bt1 h = _! desc5dants ! sc>f-p9s ( to-day4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajb4--;,a hawk]1 illu/rat+ ! primitive way ( c>ry+ a burd54 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajc4--;,a c\ri]-bag support$ by a baldric4 ,a muff-*a9 is a ?+ :i* is v (t5 se5 at ! pres5t day1 & ?is simple arrangem5t1 c\pl$ ) ! way 9 :i* x is worn 7see ,figure #aja71 may lead u along a v int]e/+ l9e ( rese>*1 :i* we may foll[ = a %ort "t4 ,if we look once aga9 at ! muff1 we %all see t x is support$ by a *a9 :i* goes r\nd ! back ( ! neck1 all[+ ! muff to re/ aga9/ ! front ( ! body4 ,?is is a primitive me?od ( c>ry+ a burd54 ,p$l>s ( old made use ( x1 & x is /ill adopt$ by ! hawk] 7see ,figure #ajb71 because1 if necess>y1 ! h&s c rema9 free1 :ile a modification ( ! same pr9ciple is se5 :5 ! /rap takes ! =m ( a baldric1 & passes ov] "o %\ld] & "u ! arm on ! o!r side4 ,9 ?is way travell]s c>ry _! c\ri]-bags 7see ,figure #ajc71 ! s*ool-boy or girl supports 8 or h] sat*el1 ! fi%]man 8 creel1 & ! sportsman 8 field-glasses4 ,to a baldric also 0 atta*$ ! quiv] ( ! ar*]1 & sometimes su* a b& 0 m]ely worn z a decoration4 7,see ,figure #ajd47 ,9 ! illu/ration :i* we give1 & :i* is ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,v1 ! baldric is hung ) bells l ^? :i* 7 worn by horses4 ,possibly a survival ( ! ornam5tal use ( ! baldric is to be se5 9 ! ribbons ( v>i\s ord]s & 9 milit>y sa%es1 ?\gh no d\bt ! b&ole] :i* c>ries ! p\* or c>tridges ( a mod]n soldi] repres5ts ! useful baldric4 ,x is ( int]e/ to note t ! r$ or blue cord worn ov] ! cross-belts ( ! ,life ,gu>ds & ,horse ,gu>ds is a survival ( a cord by :i* ! horn conta9+ p[d] = prim+ muskets us$ to be susp5d$4 ,9 ?is connection we might also m5tion ! lea!r sl+ ( a rifle & ! /rap by :i* ! it9]ant h>pi/1 9 common ) ! organ-gr9d]1 c>ries 8 in/rum5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajd4--;,an ornam5tal baldric ( ! e>ly fifte5? c5tury4 7,royal ,,mss4 #ae ,d4 #e1 aft] ,fairholt47 ,! ord9>y belt %\ld n be ov]look$1 z f x _m ?+s1 su* z weapons1 may be susp5d$1 n to m5tion p\*es1 :i* may c>ry ammunition1 fl9t & /eel1 & s on4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aje4--;,a lady's dress1 %[+ ! "p :i* is call$ a yoke1 & recalls a primitive me?od ( c>ry+ burd5s4 ,ev5 m intimately connect$ ) dress are pockets1 & !y may be t\*$ ^u "h1 = !y are int5d$ = c>ry+ small objects4 ,we h se5 h[ ! flaps ( pockets :i* h become ornam5tal survive aft] ! pockets !mselves h disappe>$ 7see ,figure #ba71 & x is wor?y ( note t clo!s 9 v>i\s c\ntries l5d !mselves to ! transportation ( commodities4 ,x has be5 po9t$ out by ,mr4 ,otis ,t4 ,mason#i t ! ,ori5tal1 especially ! ,korean1 has pockets 9 8 sleeves hav+ ! capacity ( half a bu%el2 :ile ! ,turk & ,arab c /[ an equal am\nt 9 ! ample folds ( _! robes4 ,! writ] also rememb]s he>+ ! acc\nt ( a j\rney 9 ,asia f a travell] :o1 :5 rid+ 9 wide tr\s]s fa/5$ at ! ankle1 us$ to keep all 8 clean l95 9 "o tr\s]-leg & 8 dirty clo!s 9 ! o!r4 ,we are rem9d$ by ! "n giv5 to ! upp] "p ( a lady's dress1 namely1 ! yoke 7see ,figure #aje71 ( ano!r means ( c>ry+ burd5s1 :i* /ill survives 9 ,london1 :]e a few milk-wom5 ev5 n[ c>ry r\nd _! pails on a yoke4 ,_! co/ume1 :i* includes a small %awl & an apron1 c be comp>$ ) t ( ! b>ge-girl1 ?\gh ! picturesque sun-bonnet ( ! latt] is lack+4 ,,xii ,,ornam5ts ,,primitive ,,necklaces--,,f+]-,,r+s--,,! ,,orig9 ,,( ,,! ,,hair ,,comb--,,buttons--,,/uds--,,fl[]s--,,fe a!rs--,,amulets ,we h t\*$ ^u "o or two objects :i* may h a decorative "*1 b we n[ come to a consid]ation ( ornam5ts !mselves4 ,r\ghly speak+1 !y owe _! survival to "o ( two reasons3 ei!r ! deep-root$ in/9ct :i* exi/s 9 ev5 ! l[e/ races = adorn+ _! p]son1 or1 secondly1 ! adoption ( v>i\s objects :i* h be5 worn z *>ms or amulets4 ,dr4 ,e4 ,b4 ,tylor#aj has po9t$ out ! t5d5cy ( high] civilization to give up savage ornam5ts4 ,n ! mo/ primitive possibly1 b seem+ly ! mo/ b>b>\s1 are ! ornam5ts :i* are fa/5$ into ! body 9 special orifices :i* are pi]c$ to receive !m4 ,x is true t 9 ?is c\ntry we d n make holes 9 our lips = ! ins]tion ( wood5 plugs two or ?ree in*es across1 & ! only nose ornam5ts :i* we see are on ! faces ( ! ,h9du ayahs :o h come ov] f ,india ) _! :ite nursel+s2 b /ill _m among ! population pi]ce _! e>s = ! reception ( e>r+s4 ,9 ! high] social ranks e>-drops are n[ worn :i* d n require ! e> to be p]=at$ = _! reception2 b among ! l[] ord]s--z1 = in/ance1 ^? :o live 9 canal-boats--! e>s ( m51 wom51 & *ildr5 are /ill pi]c$4 ,( ornam5ts :i* c be atta*$ to ! p]son )\t injur+ x !re are m 9 use1 b !y are practically conf9$ 9 civiliz$ c\ntries to ! neck1 arms1 & head4 ,( ^? :i* are fa/5$ to clo!s we w n = ! mom5t speak4 ,beads1 :i* at ! mom5t ( writ+ seem to be greatly 9 fa%ion1 or _! repres5tatives1 take u back to ! v e>lie/ m5 ( ^: "w we h any k4 ,9 ! caves :]e ! ,/one ,age m5 ( ! mammo? p]iod liv$ !re h be5 f\nd p]iw9kle %ells1 :i* 7 bor$ to =m bracelets or necklaces1 j z n[adays native tribes & /hetic ladies /ill make use ( ! m ornam5tal & beautiful exotic %ells4 ,! prehi/oric ,egyptians :o1 x has be5 calculat$1 fl\ri%$ ab\t #fjjj ,b4,c41 _h necklaces ( beads cut out f pieces ( %ell1 & o!rs made ( _m diff]5t mat]ials4 ,among ! e>lie/ rema9s 9 our own c\ntry beads are f\nd1 & ?r\gh\t ! hi/oric p]iod ev]y:]e !y seem to h held _! sway4 ,we h already m5tion$ h[ easy x is = ornam5ts to be us$ z curr5cies1 ow+ to ! facility ) :i* !y may be c>ri$ on ! p]son1 & beads = _m c5turies h be5 us$--z 9 ,africa = in/ance--9 ! place ( money4 ,!re are on ! we/ coa/ ( t cont95t /ill to be se5 aggries simil> to ^? :i* ! ,arab trad]s br\ght ) !m f ,egypt z e>ly z ! sev5te5? dyna/y4 ,at ! pres5t day beads ( v>i\s k9ds--= only p>ticul> v>ieties w buy c]ta9 commodities--are made & export$ to ,africa to be us$ 9 trad+4 ,:ile speak+ ( ,egyptian beads1 x might be said t1 z 9 o!r matt]s ( art1 ! ,egyptians excell$ 9 ! mak+ ( beads4 ,"s--kn[n z blue popo beads1 :i* f\nd _! way to ,we/ ,africa--are wor? m ?an _! weight 9 gold at ! pres5t day1 & ! mo/ skilful ( ! ,v5etian beadmak]s are unable to imitate !m suffici5tly well to induce ! natives to accept !m4 ,*a9s = ! neck 9 our "t d n assume v massive proportions1 except ^? :i* are us$ z symbols ( (fice 9 ! case ( mayors & by ! memb]s ( v>i\s knightly ord]s4 ,^! take u back to ! "t ( ,ri*>d ,,ii1 :5 su* ornam5ts came into vogue4 ,among savage races metal r+s f9d mu* fav\r z ornam5ts1 & !y illu/rate ! fact t ! lady :o we>s ! m9imum ( clo!s w put up ) ! height ( inconv5i5ce1 n to say pa91 j z h] ov]-dress$ & m civiliz$ :ite si/] w d1 9 ord] to be 9 ! height ( fa%ion4 ,! ,padaung wom5 put metal coll>s r\nd _! necks :5 !y are "y *ildr5 till ^! numb] betwe5 tw5ty & ?irty1 & ! necks ( ! we>]s are /ret*$ out 9 ! mo/ grotesque & uncom=table fa%ion4 7,see ,plate ,,vi47 ,african belles w we> great copp] r+s on _! limbs1 :i* get s hot 9 ! sun t an att5dant has to c>ry wat] ) :i* to occasionally cool !m d[n4 ,! we>+ ( armlets & bracelets has nev] be5 conf9$ to wom54 ,m5 among ! ,greeks did n we> !m1 b among ! ,romans !y did4 ,armlets 7 conf]r$ on soldi]s = h]oic de$s1 & ev5 n[ ! rank ( non-commission$ (fic]s 9 ! army is indicat$ by /ripes on _! sleeves4 ,illu/ration3 ,,two ,,padaung ,,wom51 ,,%[+ ,,! ,,num]\s ,,metal ,,coll>s ,,:i* ,,!y ,,we> ,,r\nd ,,_! ,,necks4 7,see page #aad47 ,,plate ,,vi4 ,dr4 ,tylor h9ts t ord9>y f+]-r+s h orig9at$ f ^? us$ z signets 9 ,egypt & ,babylon4 ,9 ?is case ! mod]n signet r+1 :i* we h already discuss$ 9 connection ) h]aldic devices1 is a survival f ! e>lie/ times4 ,mo/ r+s are n[ m]ely ornam5tal1 ?\gh a few are symbolical--! episcopal r+ ( ! bi%op1 ! engagem5t r+ ( ! betro!d damsel1 & ! w$d+ r+ ( ! wife4 ,z e>ly z ! sev5? c5tury a r+ 0 among ! di/9ctive insignia ( a bi%op1 & "o 0 f\nd on ! f+] ( ,bi%op ,agilb]t ( ,p>is 7:o liv$ at ?is "t7 :5 8 c(f9 0 op5$4 ,! r+ 0 ( gold &1 z is usual1 _h a jewel set 9 x1 on :i*1 9 ! p>ticul> case m5tion$1 0 a lik5ess ( ,*ri/ & ( ,/4 ,j]ome4 ,! orig9 is no d\bt to be f\nd 9 ! fact t 9 ,roman times r+s 7 us$ z an insignia ( rank4 ,! episcopal r+ prop] 0 only "o ( _m o!r r+s :i* a bi%op might we> z ornam5ts4 ,x 0 borne on ! ?ird f+] ( ! "r h&1 above ! second jo9t1 & 0 usually kept 9 place ) a pla9 gu>d r+4 ,! ,greeks & ,romans us$ betro?al r+s z pl$ges1 b n w$d+ r+s4 ,!re is a good deal ( int]e/+ symbolism 9 connection ) r+s1 & x is said t ! ?ird f+] ( ! left h& 0 *os5 because 9 old times x 0 ?\ght t a ve9 came to t f+] direct f ! he>t4 ,! practical po9t is t ! f+] 9 "q is n v mu* us$1 & on x ! r+s w\ld n be s liable to be worn out z on "s ( ! o!rs4 ,x is also suppos$ t ! left h& 0 *os5 z x 0 ! less important1 & ! we>+ ( a r+ on ?is h& signifi$ s]vitude4 ,an int]e/+ =m ( e>ly w$d+ r+s 0 t call$ ! gimmal r+1 :i* consi/$ ( two l9ks1 ea* hav+ a h& ^u x1 :i* :5 br\ght toge!r =m$ a s+le r+ ) ! h&s clasp$ toge!r4 ,! r+ 0 us$ at betro?al1 & ! man & woman ea* kept a half until _! w$d+ day4 ,p]haps ! old cu/om ( break+ a co9 ^u engagem5t s t ea* ( ! contract+ p>ties may h half1 is a relic ( ! same cu/om4 ,9 ,irel& ! peasantry /ill use a r+1 ?\gh a solid "o1 be>+ clasp$ h&s4 ,we h possibly a survival ( ! int]e/+ posey r+s 9 ^? :i* be> ! ^w ,mizpah4 ,?is orig9ally signifi$ a wat*-t[]1 b x is n[ tak5 z express+ ! foll[+ s5tim5t3 ,god wat* ov] !e & me :5 we are ap>t4 ,9 ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies ! c\plet or l9e 01 z 9 ! case m5tion$1 put on ! outside ( ! r+1 :ile lat]1 9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies1 ! words 7 engrav$ inside ! r+4 ,occasionally we see a necktie held 9 place ) a r+1 & ?is may well be connect$ ) ! cu/om ( we>+ r+s r\nd ! neck on a ribbon4 ,x is record$ t ! ,duke ( ,burgundy1 :o di$ 9 #adgf1 c>ri$ 8 signet r+ 9 ?is way4 ,a cu/om is /ill sometimes foll[$ :i* dates back to ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,x is t ( *oos+ /ones on acc\nt ( ! fir/ lett]s ( _! names & sett+ !m 9 a r+ 9 su* an ord] t ! initials spell a ^w or words4 ,= in/ance1 ! foll[+--,ruby1 ,em]ald1 ,g>net1 ,ame?y/1 ,ruby1 & ,diamond1 indicate ,,reg>d2 :ile a lov]'s exhortation is produc$ by su* a comb9ation z ,lapis-lazuli1 ,opal1 ,v]di-antique1 ,em]ald1 ,mala*ite1 ,em]ald4 ,_m ( ! ,egyptian r+s are made ( blue pott]y or faence1 & "s ( !m %[ highly ornam5tal & pi]c$ "w4 ,! lotus fl[]s & o!r figures ^u !m po9t to _! be+ symbolical4 ,o!rs be> ! sacr$ eye 9 ! place :]e ! seal w\ld be 9 a signet r+1 & 7 probably us$ z amulets2 b ( ornam5ts worn on acc\nt ( _! suppos$ virtues we w speak 9 a mom5t4 ,an ornam5t = ! head1 ) :i* we w deal1 is ! cr[n4 ,mr4 ,elwor?y1 9 a pap] to ! ,briti% ,association at ,ipswi* 9 #ahie1 d]iv$ ! cr[n f horns ( hon\r4 ,he ma9ta9$ t ! symbols f\nd on ! head ( ! god ,s]apis 7 ! elem5ts f :i* 7 =m$ ! composite head-dress call$ ! cr[n1 into :i* horns ent]$ to a v great ext5t4 ,! pana*e 9 h]aldry is d]iv$ f ! horn1 & x may be recall$ t ! de]-sk9 cloaks worn by ! ,bronze ,age p ov] ! wov5 dresses t h be5 describ$ on pages #ah & #gc1 bore ! horns ( ! animal f :i* !y 7 tak54 ,?\gh ! comb us$ z an ornam5t 9 ! hair is also worn on ! head1 x is on a v mu* l[] plane ?an ! cr[n1 & has presumably a v mu* less exalt$ orig94 ,pr(essor ,boyd ,dawk9s#aa has express$ ! op9ion t ! old loom comb 7see ,fig4 #ajf71 su* z "o f\nd 9 ! prehi/oric lake dwell+s :i* h be5 excavat$ at ,gla/onbury1 is ! ance/or ( ! comb worn z a head-dress at ! pres5t day 7see ,fig4 #ajg74 ,combs 7 us$ to pu% d[n ! weft on a h& loom1 ! w>p be+ kept taut by means ( weights4 ,! long hair-combs us$ by ! natives ( ! ,we/ ,c>ol9es are also ( v mu* ! same %ape z ! old loom combs4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajf4--;,a loom comb f\nd 9 ! ,gla/onbury lake dwell+s 7aft] ,boyd ,dawk9s74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajg4--;,a mod]n comb = ! hair4 ,already 9 ! safety-p9 & sc>f-p9 we h _h in/ances ( fa/5+s :i* at times are ornam5tal4 ,! button & its relative ! /ud af=d ano!r case 9 po9t4 ,a /ud is 9 reality a button :i* appe>s on bo? sides ( ! /uff ?r\gh :i* x is put4 ,x is obvi\s t x is mo/ conv5i5t to use :5 ! mat]ial to be fa/5$ is ( a /iff texture4 ,at pres5t we use /uds 9 our />*$ l951 & !y are also adopt$ = fa/5+ p>ts ( lea!r acc\trem5ts1 z !y evid5tly 7 9 ! times ( ! lat] bronze folk4 ,?is w be se5 f ,figure #ajh4 ,"o ( ^! is adorn$ ) ! triskele1 :i* is alli$ to ! swa/ika1 & no d\bt gave rise to ! ?ree-legg$ *>ge on ! coat ( arms ( ! ,isle ( ,man & ( ,sicily4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ajh4--,two /uds ( bronze1 se5 f above & f ! side4 ,lat] ,bronze ,age 7aft] ,worsaae74 ,buttons h f "t to "t done a great deal 9 ! way ( decorat+ clo!s1 9 addition to ! "p :i* !y h play$ z fa/5+s4 ,we saw 9 an e>li] *apt] h[ _m ( our buttons1 :i* are n[ only ornam5tal1 7 once ( use1 & any hi/ory ( co/ume :i* goes into details w %[ h[ l>gely1 sup]flu\s buttons h figur$ z ornam5ts4 ,! old] ,quak]s1 ( c\rse1 refus$ to we> any buttons t 7 n ne$ful1 & br\ght d[n ^u !m ! criticisms ( ,cobbett1 :o ref]r$ to o!r ?+s :i* !y lack$ besides buttons4 ,al?\gh at ! pres5t "t we may be incl9$ to appreciate "s ( our purposeless buttons1 on acc\nt ( _! hi/oric associations1 we _c say ! same = _m ( ^? :i* n[ appe> on ladies' dresses4 ,!re is little s5se 9 hav+ on ! front ( a bodice a s]ies ( buttons ( :i* ! fir/ memb] is v l>ge & ! la/ v small1 ) ! o!rs graduat$ 9 size betwe5 !m1 :ile !re seems to be no rhyme nor reason 9 _m o!r individual buttons or pat*es ( !m :i* are dott$ "h & !re ov] ! co/ume4 ,x is n z if ^! additions 7 really h&some4 ,n long ago !y look$ z if ! we>] _h sav$ up all h] old glove buttons1 & !n _h sew$ !m to h] frock1 = !y 7 q t9y & made ( brass4 ,n[1 ?\gh !y are l>g]1 !y are m]ely cov]$ ) ! clo? ( :i* ! dress is made & are usually q pla94 ,9 "s cases buttons %[ great beauty ( design1 & = ?is reason1 if n on acc\nt ( ! mat]ial ( :i* !y are made1 may be exce$+ly valuable4 ,be>+ on ! antiquity ( buttons1 we may say t !y are f\nd among prehi/oric rema9s 9 ?is c\ntry1 & ?\gh !y 7 =eign to ! anci5t ,egyptians1 we le>n 7?r\gh ! k9dness ( ,pr(essor ,fl9d]s ,petrie7 t engrav$ buttons or seals 7 usual f ! six? to ! n9ete5? dyna/y1 probably among =eign immigrants1 = ! designs are nev] true ,egyptian4 ,9 ! pres5t ye>1 #aijg1 ,pr(essor ,petrie f\nd a cornelian button ) a copp] %ank :i* belongs to ! twelf? dyna/y4 ,! use ( fl[]s1 :e!r artificial or natural1 on ! p]son1 & m p>ticul>ly ! we>+ ( fea!rs1 also takes u back to ! primitive in/9ct ( e>ly or unciviliz$ man4 ,9 our own c\ntry ! cu/om ( we>+ fea!rs is an exce$+ly old "o4 ,! s+le upright specim5s worn by ! knights ( ! f\rte5? c5tury h be5 *>act]iz$ z be+ prepo/]\s 9 size4 ,! plumes aft]w>ds worn 9 helmets 9 ! fifte5? & sixte5? c5turies 7 also imm5se4 ,9 #afjf1 accord+ to ,ni*ol's ,progresses1 on ! occasion ( ! visit ( ,*ri/ian ,,iv1 "s ( ! knights wore /range fea!rs ( ri* & great e/eem :i* !y call$ ,birdes ( ,p>adice1 &1 un=tunately1 ladies ( ! pres5t day we> !m /ill4 ,9 ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,iv1 we le>n1 only m51 practically speak+1 wore fea!rs4 ,!y /ill survive 9 ! army1 b o!rwise 9 ! tw5tie? c5tury1 ) ! exception ( an occasional small & mode/ in/ance among/ civilians1 ! we>+ ( plumes is conf9$ to ladies4 ,_m fl[]s & fea!rs are exce$+ly beautiful1 & f an arti/ic po9t ( view !re seems little reason :y we %\ld all[ civilization to sweep !m away4 ,we are quiet & col\rless 9 our clo?+1 & if we are n c>eful ! same elem5t ( dulness may creep into our lives4 ,at ! same "t1 h[ev]1 to we> fea!rs :i* c only be obta9$ at ! co/ ( cruelty or ( depriv+ o!rs ( ! sight ( beautiful birds1 or1 aga91 ( br++ any species to ext9ction1 sav\rs too mu* ( b>b>\sness & ?\ghtlessness to be 9 any way condon$4 ,o/ri*es are re>$ = _! fea!rs1 & ! plumage ( _m birds t are kill$ = food is always at h&4 ,m5 h mu* less opportunity n[ ( %[+ any great individuality 9 _! dress ?an h]et(ore1 b sometimes !y may be kn[n by always we>+ a buttonhole1 ev5 if t does n always consi/ ( ! same k9d ( bloom4 ,! language ( fl[]s1 ?\gh n[ seem+ly consid]$ to be a dead lett]1 0 h>dly inv5t$ = no?+4 ,( ! broo* & its connection ) ! safety-p9 we h already spok54 ,9 _m ornam5ts we f9d remnants ( religi\s ideas2 = in/ance1 all broo*es %[+ a cresc5t patt]n or be>+ ! design ( a h& are connect$ ) ! old phallic wor%ip4 ,! cross1 x may be m5tion$1 is ( mu* m anci5t orig9 ?an ,*ri/ianity1 & is connect$ intimately ) ! swa/ika or fylfot4 ,! locket & o!r p5dant ornam5ts mu/ 9 _m1 if n all1 cases be ! desc5dants ( amulets4 ,! ,arab wom5 at ! pres5t day we> a little metal box conta9+ a writt5 talisman4 ,an anci5t ,egyptian buri$1 ) 8 mummies1 _m amulets & *>ms s t ! s\l1 9 ob$i5ce to v>i\s precepts1 might ent] into complete union ) ,ra1 ! sol> god1 & s accompany him on 8 j\rney r\nd ! _w1 & secure 8 ev]la/+ protection4 ,x is due to ^! ideas t we owe ! beautifully modell$ figures ( glaz$ pott]y f\nd 9 ! ,egyptian tombs4 ,_m ( !m depict ! v>i\s gods & goddesses ackn[l$g$ 9 ,egypt1 & !y are usually pi]c$ = atta*m5t to ! p]son4 ,^! 7 also c>ri$ on ! p]son dur+ life1 & *ildr5 especially 7 accu/om$ to we> !m4 ,old religi\s beliefs & sup]/itions t h n yet di$ out1 h else:]e giv5 rise to ! we>+ ( *>ms1 & x is int]e/+ to note t fl9t arr[-heads1 "u ! "n ( elves' arr[s1 7 made into p5dants by races :o _h rea*$ ! metal /age ( culture4 ,preci\s /ones1 ^u :i* a ^w may be said "h1 no d\bt at fir/ 7 priz$ = _! beauty alone1 & !n imag9ation gradually end[$ _m ( !m ) fictiti\s prop]ties & virtues1 ?\gh d\btless ! suppos$ attributes ( "s & ! value & beauty ( o!rs h kept _m preci\s /ones 9 fav\r until ! pres5t day4 ,fa%ion is n[ p>ticul>ly fickle z reg>ds !m1 & craftsm5 :o deal ) gems1 feel h] decrees#ab m ke5ly p]haps ?an any "o else4 ,"s half-doz5 k9ds ( /ones--su* z diamonds1 rubies1 em]alds1 sapphires1 opals1 & turquoises--nev] g completely out ( fa%ion1 b ev5 among ^!1 "o or o!r becomes p>am\nt f "t to "t4 ,! topaz & *rysolite 7 report$ to lose _! brilliancy :5 plac$ 9 liquid t conta9s poison4 ,to ! ame?y/ 0 attribut$ ! p[] ( w>d+ (f ! effects ( drunk5ness4 ,! diamond1 x 0 believ$1 gave to ! we>]s magnanimity1 virtue1 & c\rage4 ,! anci5ts suppos$ t ! opal %>$ ! *>m ( e /one ( :i* x reflect$ ! col\r1 b :5 x 0 /ol51 ! ?ief became invisible1 & 0 all[$ to escape scot free4 ,mr4 ,cl>emont#ac has made an int]e/+ sugge/ion z to ! reason :y ! opal has be5 consid]$ unlucky4 ,! notion1 he says1 is n ne>ly s anci5t z _m ( ! sup]/itions relat+ to o!r /ones1 & probably does n date fur!r back ?an ! ,middle ,ages4 ,! old "n ophal 0 us$ z late z ! "t ( ,que5 ,elizabe?1 & came f ! ,greek = eye-/one1 & z eyes are unlucky ev5 9 peacocks' fea!rs1 p]haps ! explanation ( ! sup]/ition lies 9 ! "n ( ! /one4 ,su* walk+-/icks z ^? g>ni%$ ) sylv] & golde1 :i* are describ$ z be+ at ! ,royal ,palace at ,gre5wi* 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii1 may well be consid]$ z ornam5ts4 ,! same may be said ( ! be-ribbon$ canes ( ! exquisites ( ,*>les ,,ii's & lat] times4 ,we m5tion !m because1 )9 ! la/ two or ?ree ye>s1 !re has be5 a talk ( see+ ! nice conduct ( a cl\d$ cane m g5]ally consid]$1 & "s m5 h appe>$ at ! !atre ) long1 gold-knobb$ & tassell$ canes4 ,! buckle1 :i* may be ornam5tal or useful1 or bo?1 is well wor?y ( our att5tion4 ,x consi/s 9 its simple =m ( a r+ & a p91 & ! latt] is h+$ on to ! =m]4 ,x is1 9 fact1 mu* l a broo*1 b )\t a hasp1 & us$ 9 a diff]5t way4 ,!re are broo*es1 h[ev]1 at ! pres5t day1 :i* are ev5 simpl] 9 con/ruction ?an ! buckle1 & !y are us$#ad ev5 n[ by blacksmi?s 9 ,kirkudbright%ire1 9 ! =m ( ! iron r+ & a horse%oe nail1 ) :i* !y fa/5 _! aprons4 ,simil> p9-r+ broo*es 7 us$ 9 ,irel& until q rec5tly & are kn[n f e>ly times4 ,mr4 ,edw>d ,lovett#ae ?9ks t su* a fa/5+ may well h be5 d]iv$ f two bones ( ! %eep or de]1 ! g>m5t be+ pull$ ?r\gh ! r+ =m$ by half ! hip girdle1 & spe>$ ?r\gh ) ! po9t$ heel bone4 ,a /ill m primitive p9 0 no d\bt a ?orn1 & fi%-hooks are to ?is day us$ on ! coa/s ( ,essex1 :i* are made f ! same natural object4 ,,xiii ,,hair ,,dress+ ,,head ,,%av+--,,wigs ,,t ,,are ,,/ill ,,worn--,,roman ,,curls ,,& ,,fr+es ,! /yles 9 :i* hair is dress$ are s intimately connect$ ) fa%ions 9 co/ume t no excuse is ne$$ = deal+ ) ! "q "h4 ,moreov]1 !re are c]ta9 ve/iges 9 co/ume occasionally to be met ) :i* owe _! orig9 to ! way 9 :i* hair 0 once arrang$4 ,hair c be treat$ 9 all sorts ( mann]s )\t injur+ ! p]son 9 any way1 & usually )\t caus+ pa91 ?\gh "s fa%ions 9 hair arrangem5t _h results t 7 f> f pleasant1 & mu/ h caus$ consid]able discom=t4 ,9 addition to ! /yles 9 :i* hair is all[$ to gr[1 !re are o!rs :i* lead to its removal f "o or m ( ! places :i* x normally cov]s1 & almo/ e *ange t c\ld be rung is met )4 ,9 addition to ! hair on ! head1 wom5 h only _! eyebr[s & eyela%es to consid]1 ?\gh x is ! fa%ion to remove any sup]flu\s hair f _! faces & arms4 ,m5 h also to consid] m\/a*es1 :isk]s1 & be>d4 ,n[adays x is decre$ t wom5's hair %\ld be long & t m5's %\ld be %ort2 b ev5 n[ m5 ) long hair d n necess>ily look effem9ate1 z is %[n by ! c[boys f ! ,wild ,we/ :o h tak5 "p 9 v>i\s exhibitions 9 ?is c\ntry1 & ^: hair rea*es on to _! %\ld]s4 ,! %av+ ( ! :ole head is c>ri$ out by _m savage nations1 & ?is is p]haps surpris+1 see+ t ! process _c b be labori\s & ev5 pa9ful :5 c>ri$ out ) fl9t knives or pieces ( %ell4 ,! ,*9ese leave ! hair t gr[s f "o small spot 9 ord] to make _! pigtail4 ,9 ?is c\ntry x might be ?\ght t ! tonsure ( prie/s 0 ! only remnant ( %av+ ! head2 b we ne$ g no f>!r ?an ! ,ea/ ,end ( ,london to f9d ,jewesses :o ^u m>riage %ave _! head & put on wigs4 ,x appe>s t ! cu/om is /ill univ]sal 9 ! remote villages ( ,russia1 :]e e ,jewess on h] m>riage %aves h] head4 ,! wig t is worn is ( a v pla9 patt]n1 & ! hair ( :i* x is compos$ is p>t$ d[n ! middle4 ,! object :i* seems to und]lie ! cu/om is ! de/ruction ( ! *>m ( ! wom5 :5 once !y h f\nd husb&s4 ,9 ,london ! y\ng] wom5 d n seem to be keep+ up ! practice1 & x is mo/ly 9 ! case ( ^? :o are ov] =ty ye>s ( age t %av$ heads & wigs are to be f\nd4 ,!re may be1 h[ev]1 ano!r explanation4 ,9 _m c\ntries :]e great value 0 atta*$ to a pr(use head ( hair a v>iety ( sup]/itions arose1 & emblematic obs]vances 7 foll[$ ) reg>d to x4 ,p>5ts d$icat$ ! hair ( _! infants to gods1 z did "y wom5 !irs at _! m>riage1 w>riors aft] a successful campaign1 & sailors aft] deliv]ance f a /orm4 ,! ,egyptians ( all classes1 z well z _! slaves1 %av$ _! heads & wore wigs4 ,by ?is habit !y ensur$ great] cleanl9ess1 & ! /ructure ( ! wig n only all[$ ! heat f ! head to escape1 b protect$ ! latt] effectively f ! sun4 ,x does n happ5 t bo? sexes always foll[ ! practice ( %av+ _! heads1 =1 contr>y to :at prevails among/ civiliz$ nations1 ,fijian wom5 are usually closely cropp$1 :ile ! m5 sp5d mu* "t & att5tion on cultivat+ & elaborately arrang+ a luxuriant mass ( hair4 ,! t5d5cy n[adays is to cultivate eyebr[s & eyela%es1 b if we g back 9 our hi/ory to ! reign ( ,ri*>d ,,ii we f9d t x 0 ?\ght necess>y to pull out ! eyebr[s1 & at ! pres5t day 9 "s p>ts ( ,africa x is "o ( ! requirem5ts ( female beauty to eradicate ! eyebr[s4 ,special p9*]s = ?is purpose are to be f\nd among ! appliances ( ! native toilet4 ,a man may ( c\rse remove all ! hair1 speak+ 9 ! ord9>y way1 f 8 face1 or he may reta9 only 8 m\/a*e or 8 :isk]s or 8 be>d1 or a comb9ation ( any two ( ^!4 ,at ! pres5t day we meet ) all sorts ( /yles1 ?\gh "o may be ! fa%ion = ! mom5t among ! y\ng] g5]ation or ^? :o wi% to be consid]$ sm>t4 ,"o _c alt] ! disposition ( "o's hair z easily z "o c *ange "o's clo!s1 & ?is1 p]haps1 tak5 9 conjunction ) ! objection to *ange on ! "p ( a man & 8 relatives1 gives ! v>iety t has be5 m5tion$4 ,= in/ance1 if x 7 cu/om>y :5 a man 0 "y = 8 fell[s to we> be>ds or only a m\/a*e1 !n he cont9ues to we> a be>d or only a m\/a*e4 ,p]haps no o!r fa%ions come r\nd aga9 m regul>ly ?an ^? :i* gov]n ! am\nt ( hair on a man's face1 & x may be int]e/+ to indicate v briefly "s ( ! *anges :i* h tak5 place dur+ ! la/ two ?\s& ye>s or s 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a4 ,,fig4 ,b4 ,,fig4 ,c4 ,,fig4 ,d4 ,,fig4 ,e4 ,,fig4 ,f4 ,,me?ods ,,( ,,hairdress+ ,,illu/rat$ ,,by ,,romano-,,egyptian ,,portrait ,,models ,,9 ,,! ,,my]s ,,collection1 ,,eton ,,college ,,museum4 7,photographs by ,wilfr$ ,m>k ,webb47 7,see pages #abi & #acc47 ,,plate ,,vii4 ,! inhabitants ( ,engl& at ! "t ( ! ,roman invasion ei!r did n %ave at all or wore only a m\/a*e4 ,! ,romans (t5 cut _! be>ds 7see ,plate ,,vii1 ,figure ,f471 & ! ,saxons p>t$ _! be>ds into d\ble locks or neatly trimm$ !m4 ,:5 ! ,normans came into ?is c\ntry !y 7 closely %av$1 b aft]w>ds !y w5t to ! opposite extreme4 ,9 ! f\rte5? c5tury old m5 wore be>ds & ! y\ng] g5]ation %av$4 ,edw>d ,,iii _h a long be>d1 ,edw>d ,,ii two small tufts on 8 *91 & 9 ,edw>d ,,iv's "t ! be>d 0 closely %av54 ,aft]w>ds we f9d t a tax 0 put on be>ds1 & once m1 9 ,elizabe?'s & ! foll[+ reigns1 we h a numb] ( extraord9>y fa%ions 9 connection ) ! hair on ! *94 ,:5 we get to #agih1 among ! upp] classes be>ds 7 aga9 no long] worn1 & !re h be5 sev]al *anges s9ce t "t4 ,ap>t f ! prevail+ fa%ion1 !re is1 "u ! conditions :i* we h se5 to gov]n ! matt]1 consid]able scope = ! indulg5ce ( individual ta/e1 & (t5 an effect is produc$ :i* is mu* m /rik+ ?an o!rwise w\ld be ! case4 ,a man may *oose1 = in/ance1 to gr[ a l>ge pair ( bu%y :isk]s1 & he may !reby give "* & importance to 8 face1 :i* )\t !m w\ld be v insignificant4 ,curly hair is effective & has its advantages1 !re=e we f9d t x is c>efully imitat$ bo? 9 ! case ( real hair & ( wigs4 ,! effect is n[ usually produc$ artificially only 9 connection ) ladies' hair4 ,:5 deal+ ) ?is bran* ( ! subject1 once m we might allude to ! mon/r\s toilets :i* h be5 built up 9 defiance ( all laws ( proportion &1 we might add1 ( com=t & cleanl9ess also4 ,to utilize ! hair f ! heads ( o!rs is an anci5t practice /ill to be met )1 & all sorts ( means = mak+ ! mo/ ( "o's own hair 9 ! %ape ( pads & s on are /ill adopt$4 ,:5 speak+ ( footm51 we %all f9d t ^? :o dress 9 ! co/ume t 0 9 fa%ion :5 hair p[d] 0 9 vogue /ill we> x1 & ! cu/om has be5 trac$ to ! days ( ,rome1 :5 gold du/ 0 put ^u ! head4 ,x has be5 sugge/$ t our ,saxon =]unn]s us$ col\r$ hair p[d] or else dy$ _! hair1 b ! evid5ce comes f ,saxon draw+s 9 :i* ! hair is (t5 pa9t$ blue1 & ?is may be due m]ely to ! caprice ( ! arti/4 ,x is well to be w>y also 9 /udy+ ! col\r ( clo!s at e>ly p]iods1 by look+ at pictures1 to rememb] t ! illum9ators may h foll[$ _! own fancy1 & made g>m5ts ( su* col\rs z fitt$ 9 ) _! own ideas ( ornam5t4 ,?\gh ! use ( wigs is extremely anci5t1 ! orig91 :i* is cu/om>ily ascrib$ to ! p]uke1 is int]e/+4 ,_m curi\s fa%ions h aris5 ?r\gh royal peculi>ities or tempor>y indispositions1 ! c\rti]s hav+ imitat$ _! royal ma/] or mi/ress1 out ( complim5t4 ,l\is ,,xiv _h1 :5 a *ild1 rem>kably beautiful hair1 :i* fell 9 curls on to 8 %\ld]s1 & to imitate ?is1 8 c\rti]s put on false hair1 :ile lat] 9 life ! k+ himself adopt$ ! fa%ion :i* !y _h set4 ,! obvi\s use ( artificial additions to ! hair has n[ be5 discont9u$ = v _m ye>s except 9 a few cases4 ,judges & b>ri/]s ) a few ,p>liam5t>y & o!r (ficials /ill we> wigs1 z d also c]ta9 coa*m5 & footm51 b ^! we %all consid] else:]e4 ,x w prove ( no small int]e/ aft] recall+ ! v>i\s modes ( do+ ! hair :i* ladies h adopt$ dur+ ! la/ tw5ty or ?irty ye>s1 to comp>e !m ) ! fa%ions 9 ,egypt 9 ,roman times ab\t two hundr$ ye>s be=e ! ,*ri/ian era4 ,! reason :y we c d ?is s well is t ! ,romano-,egyptians put on ! top ( _! c(f9s a model ( ! head ( ! p]son :o 0 buri$ 9 x4 ,pr(essor ,fl9d]s ,petrie has %[n t ! effigies 7 really portraits1 & ev5 a glance at "s ( !m w\ld g f> to prove ! /atem5t4 ,pr(essor ,petrie made composite photographs ( ! face on ! outside ( ! c(f9 & ( ! skull )91 & bo? 9 ! pr(ile z well z 9 ! full-face pictures x 0 se5 t ! pla/] model clo!d ! skull1 z x 71 ) fle%4 ,to return to ! "q ( hair dress+1 if "o exam9es ,plate ,,vii we %all see fir/ ( all a lady ) corkscrew curls1 :i* 7 m preval5t 9 ! la/ c5tury ?an !y are n[1 ?\gh !y h n yet di$ out4 ,!n we h a lady ) a v elaborate fr+e1 ano!r :o all[s h] hair to fall 9 waves on h] =ehead1 & x =ms a *ignon at ! back4 ,la/ly 7,plate ,,vii1 ,figure ,b7 a little girl ) a small bun on ! top ( h] head4 ,ano!r specim51 n figur$ "h1 & also conta9$ 9 ! celebrat$ ,my]s ,collection1 %[s ! bun exactly z x 0 worn at ! end ( ! la/ c5tury4 ,we h includ$ two heads 7,plate ,,vii1 ,figures ,a & ,f71 "o ( a boy & ! o!r ( a man1 %[+ ! great lik5ess t exi/s betwe5 ! way 9 :i* hair 0 done m ?an two ?\s& ye>s ago & at ! pres5t day4 ,besides ! me?ods ( hair arrangem5t :i* h surviv$ or be5 reviv$1 !re are c]ta9 little features /ill to be se5 "h & !re 9 mod]n dress :i* owe _! orig9 to ! ways 9 :i* hair or wigs 7 dress$4 ,a remnant ( ! bag-wig1 ) its great b[ ( black ribbon1 we may f9d 9 ! army4 ,= a long "t on ! backs ( ! coll>s ( ! (fic]s & /aff-s]geants ( ! ,wel% ,fusili]s !re h be5 fix$ "s ribbons :i* hang d[n _! back4 ,^!1 :i* are few 9 numb]1 are call$ ! fla%1 & are said to repres5t ! b[ :i* us$ to ornam5t ! bag-wig4 ,a hundr$ ye>s ago ! (fic]s ( ! regim5t wore _! hair turn$ up beh9d1 & x 0 !n ti$ ) a b[4 ,?is is 9 keep+ ) ano!r explanation :i* ,mr4 ,r4 ,simk9 has giv5 u1 :i* is t ! fla% is ! survival ( a bun* ( ribbons t 7 sewn on ! back ( ! coat-coll> to protect x f ! pomatum & p[d] ( ! clubb$ or queu$ hair4 ,! privilege ( we>+ ! fla% has rec5tly be5 ext5d$ to all ranks ( ! regim5t 7see ,figure #aji74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aji4--,! fla% ( five black ribbons on ! coll> ( ! ,wel% ,fusili]s4 ,a survival f ! days ( ! pigtail4 ,a survival ( ! same k9d1 :i* takes u back to ! "t ( wigs1 is to be se5 on ! backs ( ! coll>s ( sev]al c\rt dresses1 & x is kn[n te*nically z ! wig-bag4 ,x is also1 z we h _h occasion to m5tion1 to be se5 on ! back ( ! coll> ( ! liv]ies ( "s s]vants ^: dress is 9 ! old /yle1 & "h1 z 9 ! case ( ! ,"l ,mayor's coa*man1 x looks z if x _h orig9at$ 9 a b[ 7see ,figure #aac74 ,,xiv ,,special ,,dresses ,,fa%ions ,,kept ,,up ,,by ,,c]emonies--,,survivals ,,9 ,,special ,,co/ume--,,fl[+ ,,g>m5ts ,9 ! =ego+ pages we h be5 conc]n$ *iefly ) individual p>ts ( co/ume1 & :ile %[+ h[ v>i\s g>m5ts h rea*$ _! pres5t =m1 we h busi$ ourselves ) discov]+ ! orig9 ( _m important survivals4 ,we h n h[ev] hesitat$1 9 deal+ ) ^! details1 to t\* on all k9ds ( co/umes1 & "h & !re we h left civilians' dress = a mom5t to take an illu/ration f t ( ! soldi] or ! memb] ( "s o!r pr(ession4 ,at ! same "t1 we h indicat$ t on occasions ( c]emony1 :e!r religi\s or o!rwise1 ! dress adopt$ is1 z a rule1 m primitive or old] 9 /yle ?an t :i* is cu/om>ily worn4 ,?is is :at might be expect$1 z1 on ! "o h&1 innate cons]vatism & objection to *ange come into play1 &1 on ! o!r1 ord9>y ev]yday practical matt]s be+ = ! "t put on "o side1 x is possible to we> clo!s :i* o!rwise w\ld be inconv5i5t & liable to get damag$4 ,:5 we ourselves dress = d9n] we g back ne>ly a c5tury1 b no?+ c\ld be m primitive ?an ! ,c\rt etiquette ( c]ta9 tribes1#af :]e ! subjects ( ! k+ may only approa* him :5 entirely unclo!d4 ,liv+/one 0 receiv$ by ! ,que5 ( ! ,balonde ,negroes 9 ,s\? ,africa :5 %e 0 9 a /ate ( complete nudity4 ,! wom5 ( neighb\r+ tribes & memb]s ( o!r races1 = in/ance ^? 9 ,au/ralia1 entirely remove _! clo?+ on fe/ive occasions4 ,among "s black races1 also1 ! girls :o are s5t z (ficial mess5g]s to important p]sons are n clo!d4 ,!re are /ill c]ta9 tribes ( leaf we>]s 9 ,india1 :ile at a ye>ly fe/ival 9 ,madras ! :ole l[-ca/e population ?r[ (f _! ord9>y clo?+ & put on aprons ( leafy twigs4 ,ano!r case 9 po9t is t ( ! prie/s :o conduct$ ! sacrifices 9 anci5t ,italy & ,greece1 = !y are (t5 repres5t$ on monum5ts z be+ nak$1 :ile ! re/ ( ^? pres5t at ! c]emony are fully clo!d4 ,9 tak+ up ! "q ( c]emonial dress among civiliz$ peoples1 we f9d t we h a v wide field 9 :i* to w&]4 ,we h ! ,c\rt1 :i* might alone occupy our :ole att5tion2 we h naval1 milit>y1 ecclesia/ical1 & legal dress1 ! g>b ( ! univ]sities1 ! co/ume ( pantomime *>act]s1 ( ! acrobat1 ( ! a?lete1 & ! liv]ies ( s]vants1 besides ! co/umes adopt$ = special c]emonies & 9 connection ) p>ticul> in/itutions4 ,9 treat+ ( survivals 9 ! case ( ! army1 :]e ! v>iety 9 uni=m--if we may use ?is p>adoxical expression--is s great1 we may cont5t ourselves ) discuss+ matt]s 9 a way simil> to t :i* we h adopt$ be=e4 ,on ! o!r h&1 we may also describe & illu/rate p>ticul> co/umes1 z a :ole1 :ile %[+ h[ f> _! hi/ory may c>ry u back4 ,9 addition to ! clo!s actually worn by p]sons1 !re are ^? :i* are f\nd on dolls4 ,^! may be on ! repres5tations ( p]sonages su* z ,/4 ,ni*olas1 on ! ,cont95t & else:]e1 & !y are int]e/+ because 9 _m cases !y may %[ a national co/ume :i* is no long] worn4 ,9 ! same way1 puppets su* z are us$ 9 ! play :i* we "k z ,pun* & ,judy1 & _! dresses1 l o!rs :i* we h /udi$1 may br+ to our notice *apt]s ( hi/ory 9 a way t is exce$+ly attractive4 ,!re is no d\bt b t long fl[+ g>m5ts produce a m elegant effect1 & give rise to a m /ately appe>ance ?an ^? :i* are %ort or tight fitt+4 ,9 ! case ( m51 su* g>m5ts w\ld n[ be too mu* 9 ! way on ord9>y occasions1 or :5 any physical ex]tion is requir$4 ,! k+ & noblem5 on /ate occasions we> robes1 z d also ! memb]s ( ,city companies & bor\gh c\ncillors :5 !y assemble toge!r4 ,! case ( ! cl]gy w occur to e "o1 & legal & academical dress may also be m5tion$4 ,9 ! privacy ( ! home x is possible = e man to we> a dress+-g[n1 & pyjamas h n 9 all cases sup]s$$ ! m primitive night%irt4 ,9 ! case ( ladies1 we f9d t !y cl+ lov+ly to long dresses1 ?\gh1 z we "k1 !re is mu* ef=t be+ made to disp5se ) skirts "u ord9>y conditions1 & ! fact t %ort skirts h = "s ye>s be5 fa%ionable = outdoor use looks z if "s progress 7 be+ made4 ,,xv ,,s]vants' ,,dress ,,! ,,prototypes ,,( ,,liv]ies--,,rem9isc5ces ,,( ,,george ,,ii ,,& ,,george ,,iii--,,orig9 ,,( ,,! ,,page-,,boy',s ,,buttons--,,! ,,jockey ,,cap--,,aprons ,9 tak+ up ! "q ( special co/umes1 we may p]haps beg9 ) ^? :i* we see mo/ commonly1 & = t reason we may turn our att5tion1 9 ! fir/ place1 to ! liv]ies & dress ( s]vants4 ,we h laid d[n a sort ( rule t ! co/ume ( s]vants is t ( ! ma/] ( an e>li] g5]ation1 & we w n[ br+ =w>d "s evid5ce 9 support ( x4 ,mod]n coa*m5 & outdoor footm5 we> ! tall hat1 ! bright buttons1 doesk9 bree*es & ! top boots *>act]i/ic ( ! outdoor & rid+ dress ( ! g5tlem5 at ! beg9n+ ( ! n9ete5? c5tury4 ,! groom1 x w be notic$ 7see ,figure #aaj71 we>s 9 addition a lea!r belt1 & ! reason = ?is w n p]haps /rike ! inquir] /raight away4 ,our gr&mo!rs & great-gr&mo!rs did n always drive 9 c>riages1 & x 0 cu/om>y = !m1 :5 rid+ on horseback1 to sit on a pillion beh9d a g5tleman or a s]vant4 ,! belt :i* we n[ see r\nd ! wai/ ( a groom af=d$ a hold to :i* !y _h to cl+1 9 ord] to prev5t !mselves f fall+ (f ! horse4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aaj4--,! mod]n groom1 %[+ ! belt to :i* ladies clung :5 rid+ on a pillion4 ,su* a liv]y z we h describ$ is also adopt$ by ! g5]al run ( well-to-d p4 ,! ari/ocracy1 h[ev]1 are m incl9$ to /& ^u c]emony1 & ?r\gh x to make m %[4 ,_! footm51 :o g by ! g5]ic "n ( ,jeames1 we> plu% bree*es1 silk /ock+s1 & p[d]$ hair4 7,see ,figure #aaa47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aaa4--;,a footman 9 plu% bree*es & ) p[d]$ hair4 ,8 p\t] coat dates f ! reign ( ,george ,,iii4 7,by ! c\rtesy ( ,messrs4 ,f4 ,t4 ,prewett & ,co47 ,a little inquiry w soon %[ t ^! peculi>ities ( dress 7 ^? :i* x pleas$ ! g5tlem5 ( ,george ,,iii's "t to adopt4 ,"s flunkeys belong+ to ! nobility h _! brea/s ornam5t$ ) cords kn[n z aiguillettes1 & ^! give !m some:at ( a milit>y appe>ance1 besides rem9d+ u ( ! old reta9]s4 ,! coats t g ) ! plu% bree*es & are cut away s z to recall ! w+s ( a pigeon--h5ce ! "n p\t] coat--are a special feature ( ,george ,,iii's reign4 ,! coa*man's coat is usually a little full] 9 ! skirt1 & c>ries u back to ! "t ( ,george ,,ii4 ,9 ano!r way ?is co/ume is a little old] 9 its /yle ?an t ( ! footman :o p[d]s 8 own hair in/ead ( we>+ a wig l 8 colleague4 7,see ,figure #aab47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aab4--;,a %]iff's coa*man ) ! full-skirt$ coat ( ! "t ( ,george ,,ii4 7,by ! c\rtesy ( ,messrs4 ,f4 ,t4 ,prewett & ,co47 ,9 connection ) ! ,"l ,mayor m c]emony /ill is ma9ta9$4 ,8 coa*m5 & footm5 appe> 9 all ! glory ( ?ree-corn]$ hats1 :i* are decorat$ ) fea!rs1 & _! coats are highly ornam5t$4 ,!y are repres5tatives ( ! v f9e g5tlem5 ( ,george ,,iii's "t4 ,on ! back ( ! coll> ( ! ,"l ,mayor's coa*man1 we f9d an arrangem5t t looks l an elaborately made rosette ( black ribbon 7see ,figure #aac74 ,?is is a survival ( ! bag-wig1 ( :i* we %all h occasion to speak aga9 :5 deal+ ) ,c\rt & milit>y dress1 s t we ne$ n g into fur!r details "h ) reg>d to ?is curi\s ve/ige4 7,see page #bbi1 ,figure #adc47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aac4--,! wig-bag 7a survival ( ! bag-wig7 n[ se5 on ! back ( ! coll> ( ! ,"l ,mayor's coa*man4 ,?is is a progressive age1 9 spite ( ! _m survivals :i* /ill fl\ri%1 & :5 we come to consid] ! co/ume ( ! mod]n mans]vant :o att5ds at table1 or ! wait] 9 ! re/aurant1 we f9d t he has come out ( 8 g5]ation1 z x 71 & has adopt$ ! dress ( 8 ma/]s be=e !y h !mselves disc>d$ x4 ,confusion has aris5 ?r\gh ?is be=e n[1 & x has be5 sugge/$ t if ornam5tal buttons 7 worn by ! man :o s]ves1 ! difficulty w\ld be ov]come4 ,! writ] well rememb]s be+ amus$ :5 /&+ 9 a room at a well-kn[n re/aurant1 :]e a private d9n] 0 to be giv51 to notice ! *ange :i* sudd5ly came ov] ! dress ( ! wait]s4 ,:5 ! latt] fir/ arriv$ !y _h black clo? buttons on _! coats1 :ile 9 a few m9utes' "t1 ^! same g>m5ts 7 adorn$ ) brass buttons be>+ ! initials ( ! firm t provid$ ! d9n]4 ,inquiry soon elicit$ ! fact t ! m5 c>ri$ ) !m small brass cases :i* 7 sprung on to _! ord9>y buttons1 & at once gave !m ! appe>ance ( be+ on ! /aff1 & %[$ t !y 7 wait]s4 ,! almo/ ov]:elm+ numb] ( buttons :i* are worn by page-boys mu/ h be5 a s\rce ( wond] to _m4 ,!y run f neck to wai/ ( a tight-fitt+ jacket 9 su* a cr[d$ l9e t ! pages usually g by ! "n ( ,buttons4 ,occasionally we see ! liv]y ornam5t$ by two o!r r[s ( buttons :i* are useless1 & run f ! %\ld] t[>ds ! wai/ 7see ,figure #aad7 9 a way simil> to t describ$ z be+ ! case on ! coats ( ,8 ,maje/y's po/ilions4 ,on look+ at an old book#ag ( fa%ions we f9d t a co/ume call$ ! ,dut* ,skeleton ,dress 0 v fa%ionable = "y boys 9 #ahbf 7see ,figure #aae74 ,9 ?is we f9d t !re 7 brass buttons arrang$ 9 ?ree r[s1 simil> to ^? we h j describ$4 ,x is difficult ev5 9 ! mod]n page-boy's dress to see ! l[] edge ( 8 coat1 b 9 ! case ( ! small boy ( #ahbf x 0 impossible1 because 8 tr\s]s 7 button$ on to ! outside ( x4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aad4--;,a mod]n page-boy's liv]y4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aae4--,! ,dut* skeleton dress1 fa%ionable = boys 9 #ahbf4 ,! "n ( ! skeleton dress is int]e/+1 because x po9ts to ! buttons m>k+ out ! position ( ! brea/ bone1 & x recalls ! /ory t ! lac+ on ! brea/ ( ,huss>s1 :i* we h int]pret$ z repres5t+ enl>g$ buttonholes1 0 int5d$ to give ! appe>ance ( ribs4 ,?is w\ld be 9 keep+ ) ! figure ( a skull t 0 worn by "s ( !m on _! head-dress4 ,we may imag9e t 9 ! page-boys1 ) ! sup]abundance ( buttons 9 "o r[1 t ! o!r two s]ies h migrat$ & jo9$ ) ^? :i* orig9ally fa/5$ ! coat4 ,on special occasions su* z w$d+s & coronations1 ! nobility & memb]s ( old families dress _! s]vants 9 /ate liv]ies1 & "s v int]e/+ co/umes appe> = ! "t4 ,= in/ance1 at ! w$d+ ( ! ,duke ( ,norfolk 9 #ahgg1 "s ( ! coa*m5 & footm5 appe>$ we>+ on ! %\ld] ( _! liv]y a man*e or l>ge hang+ sleeve1 :i* is famili> to /ud5ts ( h]aldry & may be ! orig9 ( ! sign usually call$ ! ,crook$ ,billet4 ,an int]e/+ little survival is sometimes se5 on liv]y coll>s4 ,x is a little pat* ( lace1 & is an imitation ( ! knot*$ buttonhole or lac$ hole :i* 0 commonly made on elaborate dresses4 ,we get a survival ( a liv]y cap1 :i* 0 worn by s]vants g5]ally 9 ! middle ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 9 ! black cap worn by ! drum-major ( ! ,foot ,gu>ds & ! b&s ( ! ,h\sehold ,cavalry4 ,we f9d t x is also adopt$ by huntsm5 & po/ilions 7see ,figure #hi71 :ile jockey caps are ( a simil> %ape4 ,! co/ume ( jockeys is an in/ance ( p>ti-col\r$ dress :i*1 ap>t f ! ,/age1 is n[ *iefly worn 9 connection ) sports su* z football & rac+4 ,"s p>ti-col\r$ g>m5ts made _! appe>ance e>ly 9 ,engli% hi/ory1 z we %all see :5 deal+ ) ! subject ( patt]ns4 ,! cockade is n[ a p>ticul> feature ( ! liv]i$ s]vant1 & z ! /ory ( its evolution is ( a p>ticul>ly /rik+ nature1 we w consid] x 9 a special *apt]4 ,"h & !re we f9d survivals ( ! old beadle1 ) 8 ?ree-corn]$ hat & 8 long g[n ) its curi\s capes & its bright edg+4 ,to f9d ! orig9al we>] ( su* g>m5ts we %all h to look ab\t at ! end ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,! wat* !n wore v l>ge coats ) _m capes1 & f ^! 0 develop$ t ( ! beadle4 ,no d\bt col\rs & o!r ornam5tation 7 produc$ s z to br+ ! dress ( ! beadle m into ! l9e ) liv]ies & to give him a m ornam5tal & impos+ appe>ance4 ,we might also m5tion t ! beadle1 to :om we %all once m allude1 /ill makes 8 appe>ance & plays 8 "p 9 ! ,pun* & ,judy %[4 ,:5 we recall ! _m & v>i$ liv]ies :i* ! port]s belong+ to ! v>i\s places ( amusem5t & bus9ess e/abli%m5ts n[ we>1 we _c help draw+ att5tion to ! magnitude ( ! problem :i* w\ld confront any "o :o desir$ to trace ! orig9 ( _! clo!s4 ,9 "o detail or ano!r we see ! rema9s ( an old liv]y1 :ile turn+ f ^! we f9d a gaily col\r$ pla/ron borr[$ f a ,huss> uni=m1 & besides ! cap !re are a ho/ ( o!r features :i* h be5 tak5 f milit>y & civilian dress4 ,railway port]s if n m5ials are ! s]vants ( ! companies :i* employ !m1 & !re is "o feature ( _! dress :i* is wor?y ( note4 ,x w be se5 t _! wai/coats1 al?\gh g5]ally built on ! same plan z t ( ! ord9>y individual & hav+ a l95 back1 are provid$ ) sleeves4 ,x is truly a coat :i* comes to ! wai/1 su* z we %all speak ( :5 deal+ ) ! dress ( ! ,gu>ds & o!r regim5ts1 & x is usually ! out]mo/ g>m5t ( ! port]4 ,if we n[ turn to ! co/ume ( ! g5tleman1 we %all f9d a v good in/ance ( :at ,mr4 ,paley ,baildon claims to be done :5ev] a new g>m5t is adopt$4 ,he says t x is always put on ov] all ! o!rs4 ,9 ! case ( ! ord9>y civilian we h ! wai/coat1 :i* 0 orig9ally an out] g>m5t4 ,!n comes ! frock-coat or surt\t1 :i* at ! beg9n+ ( ! n9ete5? c5tury 0 an ov]coat1 & ov] ?is aga9 9 cold wea!r ! mod]n ul/] or top-coat is put4 ,no consid]ation ( s]vants' dress w\ld be complete )\t an allusion to ! cap & apron ( ! h\se- or p>l\r-maid4 ,to beg9 )1 we see 9 ^! a survival ( ! special dresses :i* 7 once adopt$ by p>ticul> trades4 ,! fact t ! cap is :ite po9ts to a connection ) ! e>ly head-dresses ( wom5 :i* we see n[ p]petuat$ by ! nuns1 & :i* are relics ( ! "t :5 x 0 cu/om>y to h l95 caps & hoods4 ,p]haps !re is "s connection betwe5 ! cap ( ! s]vant & ! cu/om :i* condemns wom5 to we> _! hats 9 *ur* & makes !m feel desir\s ( keep+ !m on _! heads at all k9ds ( public ent]ta9m5ts4 ,on ?is "q1 h[ev]1 we %all h a ^w to say lat]4 ,sometimes s]vants' caps h /r+s :i*1 l ^? t are cu/om>ily f\nd on bonnets & on mitres 7see page #ed71 are ! survival ( ! ends ( a head fillet4 ,! late/ developm5t 9 ?is direction is a sc>f :i* is all[$ to hang d[n f ! backs ( ladies' hats1 & :i* may be ( s sub/antial a nature t x looks v mu* l a fr+$ t[el4 ,! apron c claim a long hi/ory1 & j z ! plu% & p[d] ( ! footman 7 once worn by 8 ma/]1 s we may easily discov] t ! apron 0 n always ! special attribute ( ^? :o "w or s]ve4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ! sev5te5? c5tury aprons 7 consid]$ an almo/ ess5tial "p ( a f9e lady's co/ume4 ,a little lat] on1 ,que5 ,anne made & wore !m h]self1 & v gaily ornam5t$ g>m5ts !y 74 ,9 ! case ( ! l[] classes1 aprons 7--z !y /ill (t5 are--provid$ ) bibs4 ,! old "n = !m 0 b>me-clo?1 & "u ?is title ,*auc] ref]s to ! apron ( ,c>p5t]'s wife z be+ z :ite z ! morn+ milk4 ,unless ! article ( dress :i* we are discuss+ 0 ( consid]able age1 we %\ld h>dly h ! prov]bial expression :i* def9es a man :o is always at home z be+ ti$ to 8 wife's apron-/r+s4 ,ano!r "n = an apron ) a bib :i* 0 p9n$ to ! front ( ! dress 0 p9n]1 :i* gives u ! ^w p9a=e1 :i* ref]s n[ to a k9d ( ov]all r ?an to an apron4 ,9 ! co/umes ( ! b>ge-wom5 & milk-wom51 :]e we get a slight survival ( *>act]i/ic c\ntry dress1 we h se5 t 9 bo? cases ! apron is always adopt$ z "p ( ! outfit4 7,see ,plate ,,viii47 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,b>ge ,,girl ,,) ,,! ,,*>act]i/ic ,,bonnet ,,& ,,apron4 ,,%e ,,is ,,n ,,we>+ ,,h] ,,small ,,plaid ,,%awl4 7,f a photograph by ,wakefield1 ,br5t=d47 ,,plate ,,viii4 ,! uni=m ( ! hospital nurse p>takes some:at ( t ( ! nun1 b at ! same "t ! apron is (t5 "o ( its mo/ important features4 ,we m5tion ?is uni=m "h because x has become cu/om>y ( rec5t ye>s = ! nurses :o look aft] ! *ildr5 ( well-to-d families to assume ! bonnet & veil & sev]ely cut coll>s & cuffs ( ! hospital nurse4 ,"h aga9 we get a case on all f\rs ) ! adoption ( ev5+ dress by wait]s1 & ! gradual assumption by ! l[] classes ( ! dress ( _! social sup]iors4 ,,xvi ,,cockades ,,! ,,cockade ,a ,,deg5]at$ ,,*ap]on--,,! ,,v>ieties ,,( ,,! ,,cockade--,,cockade ,,we>]s ,! cockade z we "k x 7see ,figure #aaf7 is n[ commonly worn by s]vants1 b1 l _! clo!s g5]ally1 x 0 once us$ by _! ma/]s4 ,! books ( an old-e/abli%$ firm ( hat manufactur]s %[ t z late z #aghi cockades 7 worn by g5tlem5 !mselves4 ,app>5tly 9 ! beg9n+1 ! sport+ ( a black cockade meant allegiance to ! ,h\se ( ,hanov]4 ,n[ ! use ( ! ornam5ts is suppos$ to be conf9$ to ! s]vants ( ,royalty & ( ^? 9 ! ,royal s]vice1 ?\gh ?is does n seem to be actually ! case4 ,9 a lett] to ! ,morn+ ,po/#ah ,messrs4 ,&r & ,co4 say t ! practice has long be5 reg>d$ z a conv5i5t & fitt+ sign ( social di/9ction1 & t only su* p]sons %\ld assume ! cockade z enjoy h]$it>y rank or else "s position ( importance 9 ! ,/ate1 includ+ all (fic]s1 milit>y & civil4 ,yet !y c f9d no trace ( ! "q ev5 hav+ be5 dealt ) by any au?ority1 nor h ! classes ( p]sons privileg$ to display ! cockade be5 at any "t accurately def9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aaf4--,! cockade1 kn[n z ! l>ge treble1 repres5t+ a survival ( ! *ap]on4 ,sir ,alfr$ ,scott ,gatty1 ,g>t] ,k+-at-,arms1 po9ts out t ! matt] is really outside ! ,college ( ,arms1 & x does n come "u ! jurisdiction ( ! ,"l ,*amb]la9's dep>tm5t1 :i* usually arranges all matt]s connect$ ) (ficial dress4 ,be=e1 h[ev]1 we t\* on ! v>i\s k9ds ( cockades1 & m5tion ^? by :om ! diff]5t types are at pres5t worn1 x w be well to deal ) ! con/ruction & evolution ( ! cockade1 & we %all be able to %[ t x has consid]able claims to be consid]$ some?+ m ?an a m]e conv5tional rosette4 ,z reg>ds actual mat]ial1 ! basis ( ! cockade consi/s ( lea!r1 :i* is japann$1 :ile a c]ta9 am\nt ( ribbon may also be us$4 ,9 ! case ( m\rn+1 we f9d t ! cockade %\ld prop]ly be cov]$ ) black clo? 7see ,figure #aag71 b n[adays a piece ( crape is (t5 twi/$ r\nd ! "o g5]ally worn4 ,! ribbon is usually m]ely a small b[ ti$ 9 ! middle ( ! rosette 7see ,figure #aaf71 b ! c5tre ( ! latt] may be cov]$ ) ribbon & ! b[ replac$ by a button4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aag4--;,a treble cockade cov]$ ) black clo? = m\rn+4 ,! conc5tric circles w\ld appe> to repres5t ! twi/$ liripipe ( ! *ap]on4 ,! cockades worn by ! ,royal s]vants on ! front ( _! ?ree-corn]$ hats on /ate occasions 7see ,figure #abj7 are l>ge4 ,! rosette has po9ts1 :ile ! upp] "p1 or fan1 %[s !m 9 pr(usion1 & !re is no silk b[4 ,! ,royal cockade = semi-/ate has a simple fan1 :ile t worn on ! silk hat at ord9>y times 7see ,figure #aba7 has no fan1 b ! edges are cut into po9ts & !re is a b[ ( ribbon 9 ! c5tre4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aah4--,treble cockade us$ by ,*elsea p5sion]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aai4--,! ,reg5t cockade4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abj4--,royal cockade = /ate occasions4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aba4--,ord9>y ,royal cockade4 ,! ord9>y fan cockade is us$ 9 v>i\s sizes1 & is %[n 9 ,figure #aaf4 ,?is is call$ ! treble1 & has a b[ ( ribbon z a rule4 ,a curi\s v>iety worn by ! ,*elsea ,p5sion]s has no ribbon1 :ile a segm5t is cut f ! l[] "p ( ! rosette 7see ,figure #aah74 ,! only o!r v>iety ) reg>d to %ape t we h n[ to m5tion is ! reg5t cockade1 :i* is exactly l ! treble1 b )\t ! fan4 7,see ,figure #aai47 ,illu/ration3 ,two /ages 9 ! evolution ( ! *ap]on4 ,,fig4 #abb4--;,comb9$ hood & cape4 ,,fig4 #abc4--;,enl>gem5t ( ! peak ( ! hood to =m ! liripipe4 7,aft] ,cal?rop1 by k9d p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,a4 & ,c4 ,black47 ,x appe>s t ! cockade c lay claim to h be5 desc5d$ f a v anci5t & curi\s =m ( head-dress1 & ,mr4 ,cal?rop#ai has trac$ 9 a v int]e/+ way ! developm5t ( ?is1 z well z ( ! cockade :i* is a survival ( x 9 m9iature4 ,! head-dress 9 "q 0 call$ a *ap]on1 & came into fav\r 9 ! "t ( ,ri*>d ,,ii4 ,x 0 itself d]iv$ f a hood & a cape :i* 7 orig9ally worn sep>ately1 b aft]w>ds ! two 7 jo9$ toge!r = conv5i5ce1 s t !y c\ld bo? be donn$ at ! same "t4 ,fa%ion l5g!n$ out ! peak ( ! hood extravagantly until x rea*$ ne>ly to ! gr\nd1 & !n ! prolongation 0 call$ a liripipe4 ,next x 0 orda9$ t ! :ole arrangem5t %\ld be twi/$ up r\nd ! head1 s t :at 0 9 ! beg9n+ a cape ) jagg$ edges /uck out on "o side l a cock's comb4 ,illu/ration3 ,fur!r developm5t ( ! *ap]on4 ,,fig4 #abd4--;,cape & liripipe made into a head-dress t c be alt]$ at w4 ,,fig4 #abe4--;,a *ap]on ready made up1 9 ord] to save tr\ble4 7,aft] ,cal?rop1 by k9d p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,a4 & ,c4 ,black47 ,x w be notic$ t ! mod]n cockade %[s ! jagg$ edges /ick+ up1 & x w\ld appe> t ! rosette repres5ts a coil$-up liripipe4 ,ev5 to-day cockades are ( v>i\s col\rs1 &1 z ,mr4 ,cal?rop po9ts out1 ! s]vant's *ap]on f :i* x 0 d]iv$ us$ to be> ! col\rs ( ! ma/]'s liv]y4 ,! *ap]on is also to be se5 on ! robes ( ! ,knights ( ! ,g>t] at ! pres5t day1 :]e x is fix$ on ! "r %\ld] z a k9d ( cape4 7,see ,figure #add47 ,mr4 ,cal?rop also po9ts out t ! pres5t head-dress ( ! ,fr5* lawy] is ano!r desc5dant ( ! *ap]on1 & t ! buttons worn by ! memb]s ( ! ,legion ( ,hon\r & o!r =eign ,ord]s are connect$ ) ! same idea4 ,a writ] 9 ! ,sket*#bj sees 9 ! rosette & fan ( ! treble cockade ! remnants ( ! cr[n & /> :i* we see on milit>y uni=ms4 ,he says t ! e>li] =ms seem to h be5 made ( metal1 :i* mu/ surely be a mi/ake1 ?\gh ! cock ( ! hat 01 z we "k1 sometimes fa/5$ up ) a broo*4 ,! example :i* he figures1 h[ev]1 & uses 9 support ( 8 !ory1 is evid5tly a helmet plate :i* displays ! />1 g>t]1 & ,/4 ,george's ,cross1 ! :ole be+ surm\nt$ by a cr[n1 & 9 ! cockade he claims to see all ^! elem5ts 9 a modifi$ condition4 ,if ?is d]ivation ( ! cockade 7 correct1 x w\ld be 9 keep+ ) ! quotation :i* ! same writ] gives f ,cussan's ,h&book ( ,h]aldry1 t ! privilege ( we>+ a cockade is conf9$ to ! s]vants ( (fic]s 9 ! ,k+'s s]vice1 or ^? :o by c\rtesy may be reg>d$ z su*4 ,! !ory is t ! s]vant is a private soldi] :o :5 n we>+ 8 uni=m reta9s ?is badge z a m>k ( 8 pr(ession4 ,we _c help ?9k+ t ,mr4 ,cal?rop's d]ivation ( ! cockade is m feasible1 ?\gh x is n easy to see ! rema9s ( ! coil$-up liripipe ( ! *ap]on 9 ! way :i* ,mr4 ,cal?rop repres5ts x 9 8 sket*4#ba ,9 ! majority ( ! cockades !re is no trace ( a spiral su* z he indicates 9 8 figure1 ?\gh 9 ! m\rn+ cockade1 conc5tric r+s are v cle>ly %[n4 ,a ^w may n[ be said z to ^? ^: coa*m5 & footm5 we> cockades4 ,! ,royal cockade is us$ by ! s]vants ( ! ,k+1 & by ^? belong+ to memb]s ( ! ,royal ,h\sehold4 ,x is l>ge & circul>1 z we h se51 & half ! disk projects above ! top ( ! hat4 ,! reg5t cockade1 :i* has no fan1 is worn by ! s]vants ( naval (fic]s1 & no "p ( x is all[$ to project above ! hat4 ,! s]vants ( ! (fic]s 9 ! ,army1 ,yeomanry1 ,militia1 & ,volunte]s we> ! treble cockade ) ! fan1 z d also ! ,lords ,lieut5ant & _! deputies1 z well z ! s]vants ( ! memb]s ( ! ,diplomatic ,corps4 ,besides ?is1 x appe>s t ! same k9d ( cockade is worn by ! s]vants ( ! foll[+3 ,all pe]s & _! sons & daught]s1 b>onets1 knights1 & %]iffs1 judges1 ju/ices1 & magi/rates2 memb]s & high (fic]s ( ,p>liam5t & ( ! ,civil ,s]vice2 dignit>ies ( ! ,*ur*1 ,k+'s ,c\nsel1 & law (fic]s ( ! ,cr[n4 ,engli% ambassadors h ! fan pa9t$ ) ?ree /ripes ( r$1 :ite1 & blue1 & :ile ! edge ( ! rosette is r$1 ! next "p is :ite1 & ! c5tre blue4 ,9 ?is case also ! ribbon 9 ! c5tre %[s ! same ?ree col\rs4 ,! cockade ( ! ,dani% ambassador is ( ord9>y black lea!r1 b ! c5tre is cov]$ ) a rosette ( ribbon1 r$ at ! edge1 ) a circle ( :ite next to x1 & gre5 9 ! c5tre1 :ile ! :ole is f9i%$ (f ) an ornam5tal black button or knob4 ,o!r =eign ambassadors h _! cockades col\r$ ^u ! same pr9ciple z ! ,engli%2 b 9 "s ! col\rs are %[n on ! fan 9 b&s in/ead ( 9 /ripes1 & ! c5tre ( ! rosette may h segm5ts ( diff]5t col\rs in/ead ( r+s4 ,9 ! case ( ! ,fr5* ambassador ! col\rs on ! fan are 9 /ripes1 :ile ^? ( ! rosette are 9 segm5ts4 ,( rec5t ye>s cockades h be5 r$uc$ 9 size until !y h become m]e pigmies 9 connection ) ! uni=m ( *auffeurs1 or motorc> driv]s4 ,! latt] cu/om>ily we> a milit>y k9d ( hat ) a mu%room top1 & z a cockade fa/5$ on ! side ( "o ( ^! w\ld n look elegant1 a v small cockade is n[ made & fix$ 9 ! front ( ! cap j above ! peak4 ,w\ld n "o ( ! we>]s ( ! old cock's-comb turbans be amaz$ if he c\ld see ! mo/ rec5t outcome ( 8 head-dress 9 its mod]n surr\nd+s8 ,!re seems to be little d\bt b t ! cockade =ms "p ( ! liv]y ( _m :o h no recogniz$ "r to x4 ,p]haps ! ease ) :i* x c be assum$ is %[n by ! price li/s ( jobma/]s1 9 :i* we f9d1 aft] ! *>ge = ! hire ( br\ghams & victorias1 a footnote to ! effect t cockades are #f;d4 extra if requir$4 ,,xvii ,,*ildr5',s ,,dress ,,survivals ,,9 ,,*ildr5',s ,,dress--,,special ,,s*ool ,,co/umes--,,! ,,blue-,,coat ,,boy--,,public ,,s*ool ,,boys--,,adoption ,,( ,a ,,special ,,dress ,,at ,,girls' ,,s*ools ,*ildr5's co/ume1 ?\gh *>act]i/ic1 is 9 "s in/ances connect$ ) c]emonies1 & 9 o!rs ) p>ticul> in/itutions2 x may !re=e ) advantage be consid]$ at ?is po9t4 ,we f9d t = v _m c5turies 9 ?is c\ntry1 *ildr51 except :5 small babies & 9 _! e>ly ye>s1 7 dress$ practically 9 ! same way z _! p>5ts1 & look$ l m5 & wom5 9 m9iature4 ,! ludicr\s effect t 0 sometimes produc$ is well se5 9 ,hog>?'s engrav+s1 :i* date f ! "t :5 infants 7 p[d]$ & pat*$ z well z dress$ 9 a way t made !m truly grotesque4 ,a relic ( ?is cu/om is /ill to be se5 9 c]ta9 co/umes :i* x is n[ fa%ionable = *ildr5 to we>4 ,possibly ! sailor's suit takes ! mo/ prom95t place1 & ! ,highl& dress is also a fav\rite4 ,x is p]haps n v /range t we d n see little boys go+ ab\t 9 ! uni=m ( policem51 & until ! ,s\? ,african w> occupi$ ! att5tion ( ?is c\ntry1 boys 7 seldom if ev] s]i\sly dress$ z soldi]s1 b dur+ ! /ruggle to :i* allusion has be5 made1 x 0 n an uncommon sight to see small boys 9 ! khaki uni=m & sl\* hats :i* 7 adopt$ by ! troops 9 ,africa4 ,n[1 ( c\rse1 ! knick]bock]s ( ! small boy1 & ! %ort skirts ( 8 little si/]s1 ?\gh n absolutely *>act]i/ic ( extreme y\?1 are recogniz$ features ( *ildr5's co/ume4 ,z reg>ds small infants1 x is /ill cu/om>y = "s "t aft] !y are born to wrap m or less ( a b&age r\nd !m 9 ord] to protect _! t5d] bodies f injury4 ,! mod]n b9d] is1 ( c\rse1 a relic ( swaddl+ clo!s1 or ^? :i* consi/$ ( a pr(usion ( b&ages4 ,^! /ill survive 9 ! ,holy ,l&4 ,x may "h be said t we meet 9 ! ^w pupa1 :i* is ! sci5tific t]m t we apply to a *rysalis1 ) ! old ,greek "n = a baby 9 swaddl+ clo!s4 ,x is us$ n[ because ! w+s & legs ( ! future fly+ insect are hidd5 9 some?+ ! same way z are ! legs & arms ( ! mu* truss$-up baby4 ,f ! same ^w we get ! "n puppet & ! ,fr5* ^w p\pe1 mean+ a doll4 ,9 ,roman ,ca?olic *ur*es at ! "t ( baptism x is /ill ! cu/om to place on ! head ( ! baby a :ite clo?4 ,x is n[ too small to cov] ! body1 & x is call$ ! *rysome1 or *rism clo?1 & ) x once ! newly-baptiz$ infant 0 swa!d4 ,?is 0 worn = a mon? by ! *ild1 & if ! latt] di$ )9 t "t ! clo? 0 us$ z a %r\d4 ,! *rysome is really ! rema9s ( a s]ies ( ve/m5ts :i* 9 ! six? or sev5? c5tury 7 worn by ! newly baptiz$4 ,! mo/ important "p ( ! co/ume 0 ! albe1 :i* 0 probably simil> to t worn by ! cl]gy1 & a *aplet ( fl[]s 0 also us$ to cr[n ! *ild aft] baptism4 ,!re are 9 ?is c\ntry /ill a few monum5tal brasses call$ *rysom brasses %[+ babies 9 _! baptismal robes4 ,a case :]e ! *ild is swa!d up ev5 m rigidly ?an 0 cu/om>y 9 ! old _w is to be se5 9 ! case ( ! ,nor? ,am]ican ,indian papoose1 :i* is fa/5$ d[n to a cradle ( bo>d or basket "w1 & at fir/ is s fix$ by ! swaddl+ process t only its head is movable4 ,9 "s in/ances sev]al mon?s elapse be=e ev5 ! arms are all[$ to be free1 & ^! are fa/5$ up aga9 at night4 ,x is probably ow+ to de=mities t 7 at fir/ accid5tally caus$ by ?is b&ag+ process1 t ! fa%ions arose :i* dem& t ! %ape ( ! skull 9 c]ta9 races %all be int5tionally & artificially alt]$4 ,to ?is subject1 h[ev]1 we %all ref] aga9 :5 deal+ ) ! "q ( ! effects ( clo!s ^u ! body4 ,z might well be imag9$1 ! petticoats ( small boys are a survival1 & "o :i* is to be comm5d$ 9 e way4 ,! putt+ ( infants at an e>ly age into j]sey knick]bock] suits _c b be bad = !m physically1 & x makes !m look = all ! _w l little wooll5 monkeys4 ,mr4 ,druitt#bb has describ$ z _m z sev5 brasses ( v>i\s dates betwe5 ! ye>s #aehe & #afdb1 :i* %[ boys dress$ 9 petticoats4 ,dr4 ,alice ,vick]y ?9ks t x w\ld be well if infant boys & girls 7 dress$ exactly alike1 say up to ! age ( five or sev54 ,%e says x is difficult to judge ! ext5t to :i* sex bias is imbib$ 9 ! e>lie/ ye>s1 & we %\ld d our be/ to po/pone x z long z possible4 ,%e cont9ues#bc3--;,if boys & girls 7 dress$ alike1 taught toge!r & play$ toge!r1 ?is w\ld d mu* to direct att5tion away f1 in/ead ( t[>ds1 sex di/9ction4 ,! long] su* a sy/em c\ld be ma9ta9$ ! long] w\ld be ! p]iod dur+ :i* rew>ds & puni%m5ts1 praise & blame1 w\ld atta* to actions & conduct1 to ! ex]cise ( self-control1 k9dl9ess & g5]osity1 effici5cy1 indu/ry & al]tness1 q ap>t f all intrusions ( sex idea1 & its possibilities ( subjection & pr$om9ance4 ,t w\ld 9 itself be a great ga94 ,! be/ s*ool = ! tra9+ ( life & conduct is ! s*ool ( equality1 :]e privilege & subjection are alike unkn[n1 & ! co-education ( ! sexes is a /ep 9 ! direction ( ju/ice & frat]nity4 ,!re is "o po9t m on :i* ,i w add a few words4 ,i h always be5 a great sceptic z to ! ess5tial physical inf]iority ( ! fem99e4 ,x is true t 9 ! aggregate t inf]iority does exi/1 b :]e c we f9d a place1 a p among :om ! developm5t ( girlhood has _h full & free scope8 ,! cu/om = "y girls to we> _! hair d[n is also an old "o1 ?\gh m>ri$ ladies ( ! fifte5? c5tury are occasionally repres5t$ ) fl[+ tresses4 ,at ! pres5t day1 z a rule1 :5 a girl puts up h] hair h] petticoats are usually l5g!n$ simultane\sly4 ,! age at :i* ^! important *anges are made v>ies4 ,= in/ance1 if a girl has a numb] ( unm>ri$ si/]s old] ?an h]self1 ! "t is (t5 put (f4 ,sometimes ! t]m old-fa%ion$ is synonym\s ) s5sible1 & p ) su* ideas v (t5 keep _! girls 9 %ort frocks until !y are really gr[n up4 ,! two *anges 9 ! girls' me?od ( dress+ are n1 h[ev]1 always made at ! same "t4 ,9 ! upp] classes we f9d a t5d5cy = ! long dress to come fir/4 ,girls1 on ! o!r h&1 :o h to g out into ! _w z nursemaids & kit*5maids1 may1 9 ord] to make !mselves look old] & m s$ate1 put up _! hair :ile !y are /ill 9 %ort frocks1 ?\gh x mu/ be said t ! effect is n q pleas+ if x is bus9ess-l4 ,9 ! bib ( ! infant we f9d a relative ( t "p ( ! apron or ! m volum9\s p9a=e :i* cov]s ! *e/4 ,al?\gh gr[n-up wom5 sometimes we> p9a=es1 ^!1 l ! bibs1 mu/ n[ be consid]$ z "p ( *ildr5's dress1 ?\gh no d\bt 9 ! beg9n+ !y 7 d]iv$ f ! co/ume ( gr[n-up p4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a4 ,,! ,,cap ,,worn ,,by ,,! ,,s*ol>s ,,( ,,*ri/',s ,,hospital ,,until ,,! ,,middle ,,( ,,! ,,n9ete5? ,,c5tury4 ,,fig4 ,b4 ,a ,,s*ol> ,,( ,,*ri/',s ,,hospital4 7,by ! c\rtesy ( ! ,rev4 ,a4 ,w4 ,upcott1 ,m4,a41 ,headma/] ( ,*ri/'s ,hospital47 ,,plate ,,ix4 ,! next subject t we may appropriately consid] "h is t ( ! *>act]i/ic co/umes :i* are worn 9 c]ta9 s*ools4 ,9 connection ) boys1 ! fir/ case :i* imm$iately comes to m9d is t ( ! ,blue-coat boys1 z ! s*ol>s ( ,*ri/'s ,hospital1 :i* 0 f\nd$ 9 #aeeb1 h come to be call$4 ,_! blue coat is "p ( ! ord9>y dress ( ! citiz5 ( ! reign ( ,edw>d ,,vi1 & ! s*ol>ly man at ?is "t _h ! skirts ( 8 blue coat long1 :ile 9 o!r cases !y 7 cut (f at ! knee4 ,in/ead ( trunks1 h[ev]1 ! ,blue-coat boy we>s m mod]n knick]bock]s1 b he cl+s to 8 yell[ /ock+s4 7,see ,plate ,,ix1 ,figure ,b47 ,! s*ol>s ( ,*ri/'s ,hospital h disc>d$ caps 7see ,plate ,,ix1 ,figure ,a71 b ! "o :i* %\ld g ) _! dress is flat1 l ! "o :i* came into fa%ion 9 ! reign j m5tion$4 ,x 0 ! "o aft]w>ds call$ ! /atute cap1 :5 ,elizabe? = ! good ( trade ord]$ t "o cap ( wool1 knitt$ ?ick & dress$ 9 ,engl&1 0 to be worn by all ov] six ye>s ( age except su* p]sons z _h tw5ty m>ks a ye> 9 l& & _! heirs & su* z h borne (fice ( wor%ip4 ,a cap ( ! same k9d 0 worn by ,edw>d ,,vi1 & is /ill "p ( ! dress ( ,beef-eat]s at ! ,t[] ( ,london4 ,! blue coat aft]w>ds came to be ! ord9>y liv]y ( s]v+-m5 9 ! sixte5? & e>ly "p ( ! sev5te5? c5turies1 & blue is /ill a popul> col\r = coa*m5's liv]ies at ! pres5t day4 ,9 a simil> way we f9d t c]ta9 s*ools are call$ grey-coat or gre5-coat s*ools1 & we h blue s*ools--= in/ance1 "o = boys & ano!r = girls at ,wells4 ,!n !re is ! ,r$ ,maid ,s*ool1 :i* 0 e/abli%$ 9 #afbg at ,bri/ol1 & 9 accordance ) ! f\nd]'s w ! girls are dress$ 9 r$ frocks1 ) :ite aprons & tippets & pla9 /raw bonnets1 trimm$ ) blue ribbon4 ,9 connection ) ?is f\ndation x may be said t #ej is set on "o side ea* ye> = ! aw>d ( m>riage portions to girls :o h left ! s*ool4 ,our public s*ools af=d u v int]e/+ cases ( special dresses4 ,p]haps no o!r coat :i* a boy we>s is s well kn[n z ! ,eton jacket4 ,?is is accompani$ by a tall silk hat4 ,k+'s s*ol>s :o are on ! f\ndation & live 9 ,college also we> an academical g[n ( fairly ample proportions4 ,! ,eton jacket 0 n always black1 & orig9ally ! head-dress 0 a mort>-bo>d1 & !re 0 a broad lace coll> or b&s r\nd ! neck 7see page #dg74 ,! black coats & top hats 7 introduc$ 9 #ahbj z m\rn+ = ,k+ ,george ,,iii1 & h be5 worn ev] s9ce4 ,! broad coll> :i* takes its "n f ,eton is probably a survival ( lace b&s1 & is worn ov] ! jacket 9 ! same way4 ,v simil> coats are also worn by ! y\ng] boys at ,we/m9/] & at ,h>r[4 ,9 ! latt] case ! jacket f9i%es (f 9 a small po9t at ! back1 :]eas ! jacket worn at ,eton is cut /raight4 ,! old] boys at ,eton we> a morn+ coat1 a /ick-up coll>1 & a :ite tie4 ,?is :ite tie is also worn by ! ma/]s1 :e!r !y be cl]ks 9 holy ord]s or n1 & x seems to be a survival ( a :ite *ok] :i* 0 w\nd r\nd & r\nd ! /ick-up coll>1 ?\gh1 on ! o!r h&1 x may repres5t academical b&s4 ,at ,w9*e/] ! s*ol>s we> b&s1 & ?is is no d\bt connect$ ) ! use ( academical dress1 = x is usual = ! boys on ! f\ndation ( public s*ools1 z we h se5 to be ! case at ,eton1 to we> g[ns4 ,! upp] boys at ,h>r[1 on ! o!r h&1 we> dress-coats ) swall[ tails2 b %\ld1 h[ev]1 a l[] boy outgr[ 8 %ort jacket1 he is giv5 :at is call$ *>ity tails4 ,:5 spee*es are made at ,eton1 ^? :o take "p 9 ! p]=mance we> dress-coats1 knee-bree*es1 silk /ock+s1 & buckl$ %oes4 ,"s co/umes h probably be5 9 exi/5ce s9ce ! f\ndation & end[m5t ( ! s*ools1 & we c f9d p>allel cases 9 ! dress ( "s alm%\ses & hospitals = p5sion]s4 ,probably ! idea orig9ally und]ly+ ! we>+ ( a special dress is ! same z is to be se5 9 mod]n *>ity s*ools1 :]e all ! boys or girls are dress$ alike4 ,x mu/ simplify ! tailor+ & dressmak+ arrangem5ts1 b at ! same "t x int5tionally or un9t5tionally br&s ! *ildr54 ,nev]!less1 we see t ! boys at mo/ ari/ocratic & celebrat$ s*ools are 9 v mu* ! same k9d ( boat4 ,to return to ,eton aga91 we might m5tion "o or two fa%ions 9 ! ord9>y dress :i* are curi\s4 ,x is orda9$ t ! l[e/ button ( ! wai/coat %\ld be left unbutton$ & ! bottom ( ! tr\s]s %\ld be turn$ up1 :ile x is "p ( ! p]=mance to ?ru/ ! h&s deeply into ! tr\s] pockets4 ,if a boy elects to we> an ov]coat1 & he does n occupy a c]ta9 def9ite position or /atus 9 ! s*ool1 public op9ion =ces him to keep ! coll> ( 8 top coat turn$ up4 ,( c\rse1 s*ools g5]ally1 & sometimes ! v>i\s h\ses 9 important s*ools1 make a p>ticul> po9t ( s*ool or h\se col\rs4 ,at ,eton1 on ! ,f\r? ( ,june1 9 connection ) ! boat+ !re are int]e/+ ornam5tations add$ to ! /raw hats 9 ! %ape ( fl[]s1 & ?ree boys :o act z coxswa9s we> ! uni=m ( an admiral & c>ry b\quets4 ,! ,f\r? ( ,june celebrations 7 in/itut$ to take ! place ( ! fe/ival kn[n z ! ,eton ,montem4 ,! c]emony consi/$ ( a procession to a little hill ne> ,sl\gh1 :5 _m old & int]e/+ co/umes 7 worn4 ,! cu/om came to an end 9 ! e>ly ye>s ( ,que5 ,victoria's reign1 & its imm$iate object 0 ! collect+ ( money ) :i* to s5d ! head boy ( ! ye> to ! ,univ]sity4 ,x seems1 h[ev]1 to h orig9at$ 9 a piece ( folk-lore1 probably connect$ ) ! old tree wor%ip1 b sanction$ by ! e>ly ,*ri/ian au?orities z a semi-religi\s function4 ,9 ?is connection x is pleasant to ?9k t fl[]s se5 9 ! hats on ! ,f\r? ( ,june are a survival ( ! gre5 bran*es & g>l&s t 7 once br\ght back ea* ye> f ! ,montem exp$ition4 ,:5 deal+ ) *ildr5's dress we ought n to =get ! special co/umes t h be5 adopt$ 9 "s private girls' s*ools1 nor h[ mu* is be+ done 9 !m t[>ds dissem9at+ ideas on ! subject ( dress re=m4 ,=1 aft] all1 x is to ! wom5 ( ! future t we mu/ look if any alt]ation is to be g5]ally made4 ,! introduction ( ex]cises 9 ! gymnasium has necessitat$ ! adoption ( a drill+ dress 9 v _m cases1 b !re are s*ools :]e su* a co/ume is g5]ally worn at all times1 & o!rs :]e x =ms ! work+ dress1 :ile long skirts are only put on :5 no active ex]tion is expect$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abf4--;,dress worn by ! girls at ,coombe ,hill ,s*ool1 ,we/]ham4 ,x is a modification ( ! ,d]vi% ,djibah4 ,at ,coombe ,hill ,s*ool1 ,we/]ham1 9 ,k5t1 ! dress takes ! =m ( a tunic ) wide sleeves :i* come to ! elb[ 7see ,figure #abf74 ,x is put ov] ! head & has no fa/5+s4 ,x is modell$ ^u ! ,djibah ( ! ,d]vi%es1 & is made ( s(t wooll5 mat]ial ( a fawn col\r4 ,! yoke is ( gre5 embroid]y & ! und]slip is tussore4 ,"u ! tunic a bl\se ( :ite silk is worn1 & ! sleeves1 ( c\rse1 %[ f ! elb[ d[nw>ds4 ,! re/ ( ! co/ume consi/s ( clo? knick]bock]s & /ock+s1 ) s&als or %oes t are made to ! %ape ( ! foot4 ,?is dress is worn on all occasions at s*ool1 & ! girls are v pr\d ( x4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abg4--;,dress worn by ! girls at ! ,cr(t ,s*ool1 ,betley1 :5 at "w4 ,at ! ,cr(t ,s*ool1 ,betley1 9 s*ool & :5 any basket-mak+1 book-b9d+1 drill+1 or ,morris-danc+ is go+ on1 a special co/ume is br\ght into use4 ,9 ?is case x consi/s ( a tunic )\t sleeves1 ( r$ mat]ial ) a velvet yoke1 & %\ld] /raps 7see ,figure #abg74 ,z a f9i%+ t\* !re is a girdle ti$ loosely 9 a b[4 ,x is n plac$ r\nd ! wai/ prop]1 b drops t[>ds ! left knee z did ! sword-belts :i* ! knights 9 old5 times wore ov] _! arm\r4 ,a :ite silk bl\se %[s above ! yoke r\nd ! neck & has full sleeves4 ,! knick]bock]s 9 ?is case are made ( r$ knitt$ /ock9ette in/ead ( clo?4 ,! :ole co/ume has be5 c>efully work$ out1 & ,miss ,hodgson1 "o ( ! pr9cipals ( ! s*ool1 has an int]e/+ doll :i* is dress$ exactly l ! girls4 ,x %\ld be said t all ! girls we> ?is dress :e!r !y are n9e or n9ete5 ye>s old1 & z x is mu* appreciat$ by !m !re is no d\bt b t :5 !y come to h girls ( _! own !y w support any movem5t 9 fav\r ( ! m g5]al adoption ( a s5sible co/ume4 ,,xviii ,,w$d+ ,,g>m5ts ,,! ,,veil--,,bridesmaids ,,& ,,brib]y--,,old ,,%oes--,,orange ,,blossom ,w$d+s are c]emonies 9 connection ) :i* we may look = "s po9ts ( int]e/1 z cu/oms 9 connection ) !m *ange b sl[ly4 ,9 ?is c\ntry1 if conv5tion be foll[$1 ! bride's dress is ( :ite4 ,! veil t is worn recalls ! primitive head-dress t 0 b\nd by a fillet1 &1 l t ( ! nun1 may well be d]iv$ f ! wimple1 ?\gh x is said to repres5t ! canopy :i* 9 _m c\ntries1 & by ! ,jews 9 our own1 is held ov]1 or erect$ above1 ! bride & bridegroom4 ,fl[]s take a "p 9 ! adornm5t ( ! bride1 & ! special use ( orange blossom w be dealt ) :5 discuss+ w$d+ cr[ns4 ,x is cu/om>y = ! bridesmaids to be dress$ alike1 & !y (t5 we> "s ornam5t :i* has be5 pres5t$ to !m by ! bridegroom4 ,x may be t ?is is a survival l _m o!r w$d+ cu/oms ( ! old m>riage by capture1 = 9 "s c\ntries ! girl fri5ds ( ! bride w n all[ h] to be approa*$ by ! bridegroom until he has giv5 !m pres5ts1 or 9 reality brib$ !m4 ,n[1 l tipp+1 x is m]ely a cu/om t mu/ be foll[$1 b orig9ally no d\bt ! bridegroom & 8 accomplice1 ! be/ man1 might h f\nd t :at !y c\ld n d by =ce !y might encompass by brib]y4 ,! expression to tie ! nuptial knot takes its orig9 f ! fact t1 among ! ,babylonians1 ! prie/ :o conduct$ ! w$d+ us$ to take a ?read f ! g>m5t ( ! bride & ano!r f t ( ! bridegroom4 ,^! he ti$ toge!r into a knot & pres5t$ to ! bride z a symbol ( ! b9d+ nature ( ! union betwe5 h] & h] husb&4 ,!re is an article ( dress :i* (t5 plays a "p at w$d+s1 = old %oes are usually ?r[n aft] ! newly-m>ri$ pair1 :ile boots1 ) a hole 9 !m1 fill$ ) rice1 are hung f ! backs ( c>riages1 & sat9 slipp]s h on occasion be5 fa/5$ to ! c>riage door h&le ( ! railway tra9 :i* spe$s ! pair on _! honeymoon4 ,we all "k t ! ?r[+ ( old slipp]s is int5d$ to br+ luck to ! bride & bridegroom1 b x is n app>5t :at p>ticul> =m x is int5d$ t ! bless+ %\ld take1 & ! orig9 ( ! cu/om is difficult to det]m9e4 ,mr4 ,james ,e4 ,crombie1#bd aft] c>efully consid]+ ! v>i\s sup]/itions connect$ ) w$d+s & %oes1 has come to ! conclusion t ! int5tion is to ensure t ! "y c\ple %all be bless$ ) *ildr51 & t old %oes are ?r[n because ( ! idea t ! ess5ce or life ( ! individual t wore !m rema9s 9 !m1 & makes !m p[]ful talismans4 ,9 ?is connection x may be well to consid] ! importance :i* %oes h assum$ at v>i\s times 9 connection ) w$d+s & o!rwise4 ,s long ago z ! ye> #abia1 a law 9 ,hamburg ord]$ t ! bridegroom %\ld give 8 bride a pair ( %oes1 & x is /ill a cu/om 9 ,transylvania = ! bridegroom to make a simil> pres5t on 8 w$d+ morn+4 ,9 ,greece ! be/ man puts a new pair ( boots1 suppli$ by ! bridegroom1 on to ! feet ( ! bride :5 %e leaves h] fa!r's h\se4 ,9 ,bulg>ia1 a money pres5t :i* ! bridegroom makes to ! relatives ( ! bride is call$ %oe money1 & ) x ! fa!r ( ! family buys %oes = x4 ,?is money is said to be a relic ( ! price t 0 paid to ! clan f :i* a wife 0 tak54 ,%oes h figur$ z "p ( wages1 & !y 7 ?r[n ov] ! heads ( ! ,o',neils by ! ,o',cahans :5 ! =m] 7 *os5 *iefs4 ,?is 0 done to symbolize ! sup]iority ( ! ?r[]s4 ,9 ,russia1 ! wives z "p ( ! w$d+ fe/ivities remove _! husb&'s boots 9 ord] to %[ _! subjection to him1 ?\gh :ile ! bride dutifully takes (f h] "l & ma/]'s boots z a sign ( subs]vi5cy1 %e always hits him on ! head ) "o ( !m to %[ t %e is n "o :it inf]ior to him4 ,x is said t ! ,hebrew ^w = %oe & wife are id5tical1 & a ,b$\9 =m ( divorce is ,%e is my slipp]1 ,i h ca/ h] (f4 ,! ca/+ ( a %oe ov] l&1 z m5tion$ 9 ! ,bible1 0 symbolical ( conqu]+ x4 ,z reg>ds fruitfulness1 ! ,eskimo wom5 c>ry a piece ( an old %oe :i* has once be5 worn by ,european sailors1 to make !m prolific mo!rs4 ,wom5 :o are bless$ ) families 9 ,*9a pres5t %oes to ! ,"m goddess1 & ^? :o wi% = *ildr5 borr[ ^! %oes & v[ t if ! desir$ result is effect$ !y w pres5t ano!r "o to ! div9ity :5 ! borr[$ %oe is return$4 ,mr4 ,crombie gives a numb] ( in/ances to %[ t !re is /ill a belief t ! s\l ( p]sons may live 9 _! %oes4 ,9 ! ,museum ( ,nor!rn ,antiquities at ,cop5hag5 is a mummifi$ corpse ( a woman :o 0 int5tionally dr[n$ 9 a bog1 & f h] body1 aft] ! murd]1 a %oe _h be5 remov$4 ,dur+ ! ,arran murd] case at ,ed9burgh1 9 #ahhi1 x transpir$ t ! boots ( ! murd]$ man _h be5 remov$ by ! local con/able1 :o _h buri$ !m on ! sea%ore betwe5 high & l[ wat] m>ks4 ,no explanation 0 =?com+1 ?\gh ! man admitt$ t x 0 by ! ord]s ( 8 s5ior (fic] t he put !m out ( sight4 ,!re is no d\bt b t ! idea und]ly+ ! action 0 t ( prev5t+ ! gho/ ( ! murd]$ man f walk+4 ,x mu/ n be =gott5 t %oes us$ to be ?r[n aft] anybody :5 he or %e 0 />t+ on a j\rney1 :i* 9 old days 0 a risky bus9ess1 & ,b5 ,jonson wrote1 ,w\ld ,i _h ,kemp's %oes to ?r[ aft] y4 ,?is has be5 int]pret$ z mean+ t ,kemp 0 a lucky individual1 & t some?+ ( him & 8 good =tune rema9$ 9 8 %oes4 ,summ+ up 8 rem>ks1 ,mr4 ,crombie says ) reg>d to ?r[+ %oes at w$d+s t by do+ s we %\ld be do+ = ! "y c\ple1 9 a m pleasant way1 exactly ! same z ! relatives ( ! ,galla bride did = h] :5 !y ano9t$ h] f top to toe ) bullock's blood4 ,we %\ld be do+ = !m ) %oes :at our ,aryan ance/ors did = _! cattle ) ! sacr$ p>na rod1 & :at ! h]dsm5 ( ,sw$5 & ,! ,m>k d to ?is day1 :5 on ! #a/ ( ,may !y wat* on :i* bran* ( ! m\nta9 a% ! sun fir/ /rikes1 & !n1 cutt+ x d[n1 beat ! ye>l+ heif]s ) x on ! lo9s & haun*es1 repeat+ at ea* /roke a v]se 9 :i* !y pray t z sap comes into ! bir* s may milk fill ! c['s udd]4 ,we %\ld be do+ ) %oes :at ! ,romans did 9 anci5t ,rome at ! fe/ival ( ! ,lup]calia1 :5 ! boys1 arm$ ) /rips ( ! sk9 ( ! slaught]$ goats1 us$ to ru% ?r\gh ! city /rik+ all !y met1 & :]e wom51 p>ticul>ly ^? :o desir$ to be made fruitful1 plac$ !mselves nak$ 9 ! way1 & receiv$ ! bl[s ( ! ,lup]ci on _! palms4 ,at a w$d+ sometimes ! prie/'s ve/m5ts play a "p4 ,x is cu/om>y 9 "s cont95tal c\ntries = ! prie/ to wrap ! h&s ( ! bride & bridegroom 9 8 /ole1 & ev5 9 "s ( our ,engli% *ur*es ! contract+ p>ties are in/ruct$ to take hold ( ! /ole by ! (ficiat+ cl]gyman4 ,we might m5tion t 9 _m c\ntries ! bridal dresses are v beautiful1 & are (t5 survivals ( v old-fa%ion$ co/umes4 ,! ,norwegian bridal dress is an in/ance ( ?is4 ,! we>+ ( a bridal cr[n is also a cu/om 9 ,sc&9avia1 :]e x is said t e p>i% possesses its special cr[n :i* is ! prop]ty ( ! *ur*1 b ! use ( x is only sanction$ :5 ! bride be>s an irreproa*able "*4 ,! we>+ ( orange blossom has app>5tly ! same mean+1 & x may be m5tion$ t on fun]al monum5ts or brasses ! we>+ ( a g>l& by ! effigy ( a girl means t %e di$ a virg94 ,,xix ,,m\rn+ ,,col\rs ,,associat$ ,,) ,,m\rn+--,,wid[s' ,,we$s--,,p]5nial ,,m\rn+ ,! c]emonies connect$ ) dea? & burial are no exception to ! rule :i* we h laid d[n1 t on solemn & important occasions primitive cu/oms & co/umes are mo/ commonly to be met )4 ,! mak+ ( clo!s f b>k has come to h a special significance 9 ! case ( races :i* no long] adopt ?is 9 ev]yday life4 ,! ,kayans ( ,borneo n[ ord9>ily we> sm>t =eign /uffs :i* !y get f trad]s2 b :5 !y g into m\rn+ !y disc>d ^! g>m5ts1 & return once m to ! old native g>m5t ( b>k clo?4 ,! putt+ on ( sackclo? is no d\bt a simil> cu/om1 & di%evell+ ( locks is also 9 keep+ ) x4 ,among ! _m curi\s cu/oms connect$ ) fun]al rites :i* survive 9 civiliz$ c\ntries1 ! adoption ( "s k9d ( m\rn+ dress is v g5]al4 ,sombre black has come to be associat$ 9 our m9ds ) m\rn+1 b o!r col\rs are us$ among o!r nations1 & ev5 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! drap]y ) :i* ! hats ( ! hir$ m\rn]s at a *ild's fun]al are veil$ are :ite in/ead ( black4 ,:ite o/ri* fea!rs may appe> on ! horses' heads1 & :ite adorns _! trapp+s4 ,royalty is /ill privileg$ to h a special m\rn+ col\r--purple is us$ at /ate fun]als1 & grey is look$ ^u z half-m\rn+4 ,9 ,*9a :ite is ! col\r us$ in/ead ( black1 & o!r ,ori5tal nations we> yell[4 ,9 mod]n ,egypt1 at a fun]al1 ! wom51 :e!r relatives or s]vants ( ! deceas$1 are di/+ui%$ by a /rip ( l95 or musl9 b\nd r\nd ! head & ti$ 9 a s+le knot beh9d4 ,?is /uff is usually ( a blue col\r4 ,! wom5 ( anci5t ,egypt1 z %[n on ! walls ( tombs1 wore a simil> b&age r\nd _! head4 ,excessive m\rn+ is n[ becom+ a ?+ ( ! pa/1 & !re is no ne$ n[ = su* laws z 7 made at ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury to re/rict extravagance 9 m\rn+ attire4 ,n[adays m5 may foll[ ! cu/om obs]v$ by ^? 9 ! army & ^? :o we> ,highl& dress ( putt+ a black b& r\nd _! arm4 ,at ! mo/ !y we> black clo!s & put a wid] b& r\nd _! hats4 ,among wom5 x is only wid[s :o we> a special co/ume4 ,x is n a becom+ "o1 ?\gh sometimes a sm>tness is imp>t$ to x t is a little out ( keep+ ) ! idea ( m\rn+4 ,n[ a wid['s dress is call$ we$s1 ?\gh ?is t]m at "o "t signifi$ ! :ole ( any woman's co/ume4 ,= ! orig9 ( ! wid['s veil we mu/ g back to m$ival times1 :5 ! dress ( wid[ ladies 0 simil> to t ( ! conv5t4 ,x 0 ! cu/om ( eld]ly ladies ^: husb&s _h di$ to become :at is call$ v[esses1 & to g into seclusion4 ,a relic p]haps ( ! practice is to be f\nd 9 ! k9d ( prejudice :i* /ill exi/s 9 ! m9ds ( "s p aga9/ second m>riages4 ,! :ite cuffs ( ! wid[ recall ^? ( ! nurse1 & simil> ones are us$ by "s memb]s ( ! legal pr(ession z "p ( _! m\rn+4 ,:5 deal+ ) milit>y co/ume we %all f9d t signs ( m\rn+1 :5 once adopt$1 h 9 "s cases nev] be5 :olly ab&on$4 ,!re are simil> ve/iges l ^? f\nd 9 ! dress ( public s*ools1 & !re has be5 a sugge/ion ( ! same ?+ happ5+ 9 ! ,navy4 ,9 connection ) ! hir$ m\rn]s or mutes at fun]als1 n[ s solemnly habit$ 9 black1 x may be int]e/+ to recall t ! old ,roman mimes1 ( :om we h se5 t ,pun* 0 orig9ally "o1 7 employ$ at fun]als to imitate ! language & mann]s ( ! deceas$4 ,,xx ,,co/ume ,,connect$ ,,) ,,! ,,*ri/ian ,,religion ,,! ,,surplice ,,& ,,! ,,clo?--,,! ,,civil ,,orig9 ,,( ,,ve/m5ts--,,special ,,ve/m5ts--,,processional ,,ve/m5ts1 ,,s ,,call$--,,nuns' ,,dress--,,! ,,*ok] ,! dress worn by cl]gy :5 conduct+ religi\s c]emonies (f]s _m opportunities = /udy+ ! developm5t ( g>m5ts1 & illu/rates at ! same "t h[ ! dress us$ by a special class may evolve m sl[ly & on diff]5t l9es f ! same clo!s t may be worn by ! p at l>ge4 ,! case is simil> to t ( animals or plants :i* are isolat$ f ! o!r memb]s ( _! species1 & 9 c\rse ( "t come to diff] v m>k$ly f _! f>-away relatives :o fl\ri% 9 ! old home4 ,we %all see t _m ( ! ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts c be trac$ to civil dress2 b = ! mom5t we may discuss ^? :i* are 9 use at ! pres5t "t1 & :i* af=d additional evid5ce 9 support ( our /atem5t t ! m important ! c]emonial1 ! m anci5t ! co/ume4 ,at ! pres5t day we f9d t ! cl]gy ( ! ,*ur* ( ,engl& prea* ei!r 9 a :ite surplice or 9 a black g[n4 ,we c trace ! black g[n to an ord] made by ,james ,i1 b at ! pres5t day ! ve/m5ts worn by ! cl]gy ( ! ,presbyt]ian ,*ur*es are r pr(essional1 or academical l a b>ri/]'s g[n1 ?an prop]ly ecclesia/ical4 ,we h already m5tion$ ! b&s 7see p4 #dd7 :i* are worn ) ! black g[n1 & "h we might m5tion t :5 ! prea*] m9i/]s to a recogniz$ congregation he we>s !m1 ?\gh if he is orda9$ b is conduct+ an occasional s]vice he does n4 ,*>les ,i gave in/ructions t ! surplice %\ld be worn1 & _h an ,act pass$ giv+ him p[] to regulate cl]ical co/ume4 ,b ! cl]gy s5t 9 a petition t matt]s %\ld be left z !y 71 & ?is reque/ seems to h be5 grant$1 z "s ( ! m9i/]s at ! "t express$ ! fe> t ,8 ,maje/y w\ld ord] !m to we> hoods & bells4 ,mr4 ,macali/]#be says t ! surplice 0 orig9ally inv5t$ to take ! place ( ! albe1 :i* 0 made s small t x 0 difficult to put x ov] ! cassock :5 ! latt] g>m5t 0 ?ick & l9$ ) fur4 ,orig9ally ! surplice 0 put on ov] ! head1 9 ! same way z ! albe1 ! place ( :i* x took1 b "s two hundr$ ye>s ago ! surplice 0 made op5 9 front & fa/5$ at ! neck ) a button4 ,! reason = ?is is t 9 ?is way ! surplice c\ld be put on )\t dis>rang+ ! enorm\s wigs :i* 7 worn dur+ ! sev5te5? & eighte5? c5turies4 ,! cassock1 to :i* we h already allud$1 0 a long1 loose coat or g[n1 :i* 0 worn by bo? sexes f ! elev5? c5tury onw>ds4 ,! "n 0 appli$ to ! coat adopt$ by foot soldi]s 9 ! "t ( ,elizabe?4 ,9 ! case ( ! laity1 x 0 ab&on$ 9 fav\r ( ! %ort] & m conv5i5t coat4 ,! black coat ( ! mod]n cl]gy1 :om we t]m ! clo?1 no d\bt repres5ts x1 :ile x is ( c\rse worn ord9>ily by _m ,roman ,ca?olic cl]gy1 & "s ,high ,*ur*m51 z an ev]yday g>m5t1 = :i* x 0 orig9ally int5d$4 ,! r[ ( buttons :i* n[ fa/5 ! long cassocks f neck to ! foot h be5 humor\sly comp>$ by ,"l ,grim?orpe to ! close r[ ( rivets on a boil]4 ,) reg>d to ! developm5t ( ! m ornam5tal dress ( ! cl]gy !re is a great deal to be said4 ,9 ! pa/1 two sep>ate orig9s = x h be5 sugge/$1 & to pursue ei!r ( ^! w\ld be to take u f> back into hi/ory4 ,x has be5 claim$1 9 ! fir/ place1 t mod]n *ur* ve/m5ts h be5 d]iv$ f ^? ( ! ,levitical prie/hood4 ,! o!r idea is t ! c]emonial dress ( ! cl]gy 0 d]iv$ f ! civil co/ume ( ! ,romans4 ,x appe>s1 h[ev]1 t c>eful rese>*es h %[n t ! decorations :i* h giv5 ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts _! highly ornam5t$ "*--9 :i* !y resemble c]ta9ly ^? us$ by ! ,jews 9 ,temple wor%ip--h be5 gradually acquir$4 ,! dress ( ! anci5t ,*ri/ians 0 simple1 & x seems likely t ow+ to ! pov]ty ( ! e>ly ,*ur* ri* clo?+ c\ld h>dly h be5 adopt$4 ,besides1 = _m c5turies !re is no m5tion ( su* ve/m5ts z we are consid]+1 & no records z to _! hav+ be5 d]iv$ f ,jewi% models4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ev]y?+ po9ts to a m natural orig9 ( ! raim5t conc]n$4 ,fl[+ g>m5ts1 z we h already se51 give dignity1 & we f9d t among ! ,romans su* 7 us$ 9 dignifi$ leisure or on occasions ( /ate1 9 contradi/9ction to ! dress ( active exi/5ce1 :i* consi/$ ( a %ort tunic or *iton4 ,x is ) ! fir/ k9d ( dress t we h to deal4 ,x consi/$ ( a tunic ei!r %ort or long1 ov] :i* 0 worn ! toga :i* 0 capable ( ! same v>iety ( arrangem5t z ! plaid :i* /ill survives4 ,ev5 :5 ! toga 0 giv5 up by ! p g5]ally1 on ! f\nd+ ( ! ,roman ,empire1 x cont9u$ to be us$ 9 c]ta9 cases4 ,x 0 etiquette to we> a toga :5 d9+ ) ! ,emp]or or go+ to c\rt2 advocates wore x1 z did cli5ts :5 !y visit$ _! patrons1 & x 0 also adopt$ at fun]als & :5 sacrifices 7 be+ made4 ,on ! face ( x1 x w\ld appe> likely t ^? :o m9i/]$ to ! e>ly ,*ri/ian ,*ur* w\ld foll[ ! g5]al cu/om4 ,no?+1 p]haps1 af=ds bett] evid5ce ( ?is hav+ tak5 place ?an an illu/ration :i* is consid]$ au!ntic ( ,/4 ,gregory ! ,great ) 8 fa!r & "m4 ,z ,mr4 ,m>riott#bf po9ts out1 if x 7 n = ! ,papal pallium--t is to say1 ! b& r\nd 8 %\ld]s--on :i* crosses are embroid]$1 & ! book ( ! ,gospels :i* he holds 9 8 h&1 x w\ld be h>d to di/+ui% :i* 0 ! bi%op & :i* ! s5ator4 7,see ,figure #abh47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abh4--,/4 ,gregory ! ,great ) 8 fa!r ,gordianus1 :o 0 a s5ator1 on 8 "r1 & 8 "m ,sylvia on 8 left4 ,?is %[s ! simil>ity betwe5 ecclesia/ical & civil co/ume 9 e>ly times4 ,f an au!ntic picture 7aft] ,m>riott74 ,f ?is dress x is claim$1 by ^? :o h c>efully gone into ! "q1 t ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts h be5 develop$4 ,9 connection ) ?is1 ,mr4 ,macali/]#bg makes ! foll[+ rem>ks3 ,fa%ion 9 dress or ornam5ts is subject to con/ant *anges1 :i*1 ?\gh p]haps individually trifl+1 9 "t am\nt to complete revolutions2 b ! devotees ( any religion1 true or false1 are by nature cons]vative ( its doctr9es or obs]vances4 ,at fir/ ! e>ly ,*ri/ians wore ! same co/ume bo? at wor%ip & at home4 ,fa%ion1 ,mr4 ,macali/] cont9ues1 w\ld sl[ly *ange un*eck$ f ye> to ye>1 :ile ecclesia/ical cons]vatism w\ld ret>d su* *anges z f> z !y conc]n ! dress worn at div9e s]vice2 small diff]5ces w\ld spr+ into exi/5ce betwe5 ev]yday dress & ! dress ( ! wor%ipp]4 ,^! diff]5ces1 at fir/ h>dly p]ceptible1 w\ld increase z ! process w5t on1 until ! two /yles ( co/ume became %>ply di/+ui%$ f "o ano!r4 ,9 ?is connection x w be int]e/+ to m5tion ^? ve/m5ts :i* antiqu>ians h trac$ to ,roman co/ume4 ,! albe takes its "n f ! tunica alba1 :i* 0 us$ z a purely secul> g>m5t until ! n9? c5tury4 ,x 0 worn by all ! m9i/]s & deacons1 b z ! latt] _h no ve/m5t above ! albe1 x came to be ! special *>act]i/ic ( ! deacons4 ,usually1 z ! "n implies1 ! albe 0 :ite1 b 9 ?is c\ntry col\r$ albes 7 sometimes us$4 ,we h already se5 t ! surplice 0 d]iv$ f ! albe1 & ,mr4 ,m>riott has br\ght =w>d all ! evid5ce t he c to %[ t :ite 0 ! col\r ( ! ve/m5ts at ! e>lie/ times 9 ! hi/ory ( ! ,*ur*4 ,8 argum5ts1 h[ev]1 d n seem to be conclusive1 & 8 inf]5ces d n comm5d !mselves to ,mr4 ,macali/]4 ,! latt] ?9ks1 h[ev]1 t ! view t :ite 0 ! col\r appropriat$ 9 primitive times to ! dress ( ! ,*ri/ian m9i/ry is pref]able to ! !ory t ! e>ly ve/m5ts 7 ( ! same elaborate description z _! m$ival successors4 ,he is ( op9ion1 nev]!less1 t ! passages ^u :i* ,mr4 ,m>riott bases 8 argum5ts are q consi/5t ) a ?ird alt]native1 namely1 t no di/9ctive ve/m5ts 7 set ap>t = ! exclusive use ( ! ,*ri/ian m9i/] dur+ ! fir/ f\r c5turies ( ! ,*ri/ian era4 ,! dalmatic 0 a wide g[n or tunic ) long full sleeves1 :i* 0 d]iv$ app>5tly f ! albe & us$ by p]sons 9 high secul> positions be=e x 0 adopt$ by ! ,*ur*4 ,9 ! m$ival p]iod ! dalmatic 0 slit = a %ort di/ance up ei!r side & fr+es 7 add$ to decorate ! slits1 ! hems1 & ! ends ( ! sleeves4 ,9 ?is /yle ! g>m5t 0 worn by a bi%op4 ,!re 71 h[ev]1 only fr+es on ! left sleeves & along ! left side 9 ! =m ( ?is ve/m5t :i* 0 appropriat$ to a deacon4 ,mo/ elaborate explanations 7 (f]$ by m$ival writ]s = ?is diff]5ce1 :i* seems m]ely to be a matt] ( conv5i5ce = ! deacon1 :o s]v$ at ! alt>4 ,x 0 important t he %\ld h 8 "r side free1 & ! heavy fr+es w\ld h got into 8 way4 ,"o ( ! ideas ) reg>d to ! fr+e 0 t ! abs5ce f ! "r side symbolizes our fre$om f c>e 9 ! _w to come2 b :y1 ,mr4 ,macali/] asks1 0 n ! bi%op to be exempt f c>e 9 ! future _w8 ,9 connection ) ! coronation ( ,engli% sov]eigns ! dalmatic is /ill us$1 z well z repres5tatives ( o!r ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts1 b to ^! we %all ref] aga94 ,x is n at all unlikely t ! /ole :i* a cl]gyman we>s aft] ! fa%ion ( an unti$ tie1 & :i* hangs f 8 neck ne>ly to ! gr\nd1 is really ! same ?+ z our h&k]*ief1 & x is c]ta9 t x 0 employ$ orig9ally z a sc>f or or>ium4 ,9 _m ,roman monum5ts :i* are n ( an ecclesia/ical "*1 sc>ves are worn ov] ! re/ ( ! dress4 ,!y pass ov] ! left %\ld]1 diagonally1 t[>ds ! "r side1 & are fa/5$ "u ! "r arm4 ,!y are n to be conf\nd$ ) ! two b&s ( purple 7or clavi7 :i* on ! tunics ( s5ators & o!r important m5 ran r\nd ! sides ( ! neck op5+s & d[n to ! l[] hem4 ,x is probable t ! sc>ves 7 us$ 9 ! same way z fav\rs & col\rs among ourselves4 ,x is record$ t ,aurelian 0 ! fir/ emp]or :o di/ribut$ or>ia z pres5ts to ! p to be worn z fav\rs4 ,9 ?is connection we mu/ n =get ! ribbons ( ! ,knightly ,ord]s1 :i* we h already m5tion$ :5 speak+ ( ! baldric4 ,! ,f\r? ,c\ncil ( ,tol$o enact$ t deacons %\ld we> _! /oles ov] _! left %\ld] s t _! "r arm might be free to facilitate ! execution ( _! duties 9 div9e s]vice4 ,an ,engli% *ur* ve/m5t actually goes by ! "n ( ! sc>f1 & is a broad black b& ( silk worn 9 ! same way z ! /ole4 ,x is probably a modification ( "s article ( univ]sity co/ume1 possibly ! tippet 7see p4 #bab71 & is worn by ,doctors ( ,div9ity & ! cl]ical au?orities ( ,collegiate & ,ca!dral bodies4 ,! outdoor g>m5t :i* replac$ ! toga took sev]al =ms4 ,"o ( ^! _h already be5 9 use = "s "t z "p ( ! dress ( ! l[] classes & ( slaves4 ,speak+ briefly1 x rose 9 ! _w1 & emp]ors ev5 wore x :5 !y 7 travell+4 ,"o =m1 call$ ! casula1 is ( int]e/ to u because x is ! =]unn] ( ! *asuble4 ,s mu* att5tion has be5 drawn to ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts ( rec5t ye>s1 ow+ to ! adoption by ,engli% ,high ,*ur* cl]gy ( ^? 9 :i* ,roman ,ca?olic prie/s celebrate ,mass1 t x may be p]haps ( int]e/1 ev5 at ! risk ( recapitulation1 to consid] !m4 ,x %\ld be said at ! outset t ! /ripes ( embroid]y1 :i* are (t5 v elaborate & enri*$ ) jewels1 :i* appe> on ve/m5ts su* z ! amice & albe1 are call$ app>els4 ,to g>m5ts :i* are :ite & h at times to be wa%$1 ^! ornam5ts are sewn or o!rwise atta*$1 s t !y c be remov$ :5 x is necess>y & replac$4 ,! amice we h n yet m5tion$1 z x is ( m$ival orig9 & did n come into our consid]ation ( ! evolution ( mod]n ve/m5ts f ,roman dress4 ,x 0 a rectangul> piece ( l951 ab\t ?irty-six in*es by tw5ty-five in*es1 ) an app>el sewn along "o edge & a cross embroid]$ 9 ! c5tre4 ,?is ! prie/ at ! pres5t "t we>s r\nd 8 neck4 ,! out] g>m5t or *asuble1 :i* is ri*ly ornam5t$1 we h trac$ to ! g>m5t :i* replac$ ! ,roman toga1 & z x is )\t sleeves & has become heavi]1 x has be5 f\nd necess>y to slit up ! sides4 ,"u ?is ! /ole is worn ov] ! albe1 & only its ends appe> b5ea? ! *asuble4 7,see ,figure #abi47 ,!re is ornam5tation on ! sleeves ( ! albe1 :]e !y %[1 & on ! back & front ( x :]e x %[s bel[ ! *asuble4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #abi4--;,a prie/ 9 ! ve/m5ts n[ worn at ! celebration ( ! ,eu*>i/4 ,! app>els1 accord+ to ,druitt1 are possibly ! rema9s ( ! purple b&s & o!r ornam5tations ( ! ,roman tunic1 f :i* we h se5 t ! albe 0 d]iv$4 ,ov] ! left arm ! prie/ c>ries a maniple :i* is some?+ l a /ole4 ,?is 0 orig9ally made ( l951 & worn ov] ! f+]s ( ! left h&4 ,!re is no d\bt b t x 0 once a napk9 &1 accord+ to ,mr4 ,g4 ,c4 ,c\lton1#bh orig9ally us$ 9 ! fa%ion ( a mod]n pocket-h&k]*ief4 ,t x 0 a napk9 is %[n by quotations f anci5t writ]s1 & !re seems no d\bt also t _m ref9em5ts ( ,roman civilization1 ( :i* ! pocket h&k]*ief 0 "o1 7 lo/ 9 ! lat] ,middle ,ages4 ,9 fact1 ! h&k]*ief only began to come into g5]al use 9 polite society ab\t ,h5ry ,,viii's reign1 & ! maniple ( ! m9i/rant at ! alt> mu/ h lo/ its orig9al use1 or ,b]n>d w\ld n h twice w>n$ him aga9/ bl[+ 8 nose on 8 *asuble or surplice4 ,:5 speak+ ( ! h&k]*ief1 !re is ano!r use :i* we may m5tion4 ,x 0 (t5 employ$ = c]emonial purposes 9 connection ) ! giv+ ( pres5ts1 & ?is idea seems to h come f ,ea/]n l&s1 :]e gifts are wrapp$ 9 highly ornam5tal cov]s4 ,9 ! p>able ( ! tal5ts1 "o ( !m1 x w be rememb]$1 0 wrapp$ 9 a napk91 & ev5 to-day ! lab\r] has 8 d9n] tak5 to him 9 a brightly col\r$ cotton h&k]*ief4 ,among ! special ve/m5ts ( bi%ops are ! dalmatic1 :i* we h already describ$1 & ! tunicle1 :i* orig9ally did n diff] f x1 & began to be worn b5ea? x ab\t ! twelf? c5tury4 ,o!rs are ! busk9s or /ock+s 7:i* 7 orig9ally res]v$ = ! pope71 s&als1 r+1 gloves1 & mitre1 toge!r ) a pa/oral /aff adapt$ f ! %eph]d's crook4 ,ar*bi%ops h a cross /aff & a pallium or pall :i* is probably d]iv$ f ! same ance/or z ! /ole1 namely ! or>ium1 :i*1 we h se51 0 a fav\r or di/9ction grant$ by ! ,roman ,emp]or4 ,! ^w pallium has be5 appli$ to a numb] ( g>m5ts 9 ! pa/1 _m ( :i* 7 ( a fl[+ "*1 & "s writ]s h se5 9 ! ar*bi%op's pall a small ve/ige ( :at 0 once an ample ve/m5t4 ,e>ly pictures1 h[ev]1 %[ ! pall loop$ r\nd ! %\ld]s ) "o end hang+ 9 front ( ! body & "o beh9d4 ,mr4 ,macali/] says t x 0 difficult sometimes to di/+ui% betwe5 x & ! /ole1 & t ! next /ep 9 its evolution 0 to knot ! free ends to ! loops z %[n 9 ! eigh?1 n9?1 & t5? c5turies4 ,f ?is x 0 b an easy /ep to ! f9al =m :i* consi/s ( an oval loop ) a long tail p5d5t f ea* ( its ends1 s t :5 x is worn on ! p]son x makes a capital ,y on ! back & ano!r on ! *e/4 ,x %\ld be po9t$ out t ! pall mu/ n be conf\nd$ ) ! app>el ( ! *asuble call$ ! orphrey1 :i* also has a ,y %ape4 ,9 connection ) ! manufacture ( ! pall !re are "s int]e/+ proce$+s4 ,x is made f ! wool ( two lambs1 & !y are solemnly bless$ on ,sa9t ,agnes's day 9 ! *ur* d$icat$ 9 ! "n ( t sa9t at ,rome4 ,! animals are *os5 ) special ref]5ce to _! :it5ess & goodness1 & are c>ri$ into ,rome 9 sep>ate baskets1 :i* are slung ov] a horse's back4 ,on ! way to ! *ur* ! ,pope makes ! sign ( ! cross f a w9d[ ov] ! lambs1 & !y1 aft] ,mass has be5 celebrat$ & !y h be5 bless$ by ! celebrant1 g back to ! ,pope1 :o s5ds !m to a nunn]y1 :]e !y are %orn & ! wool made into palls by ! nuns4 ,! mod]n pall has six black crosses on x1 b previ\s to ! eigh? c5tury x _h sometimes f\r1 sometimes eight1 work$ 9 purple4 ,at fir/ ! pall 0 fa/5$ by gold p9s to ! *asuble to keep x 9 place1 b j z ladies n[ use little lead weights to keep p>ts ( _! dress 9 position1 s lead 0 us$ to hold ! ar*bi%op's pall 9 place4 ,! effigy ( ,albrect von ,br&5burg 9 #aeee1 at ,may5ce1 %[s two palls1 :i* probably indicate t he 0 ,ar*bi%op ( ,magdeburg z well z ( ,may5ce4 ,?is repetition c h>dly be /rictly correct1 z ! pall c\ld only be worn )9 ! ,ar*bi%op's prov9ce4 ,ar*bi%ops 9 old5 days appe>$ to h _h no au?ority to act until !y receiv$ _! pall f ! ,pope4 ,! hon\r 01 h[ev]1 be/[$ occasionally on bi%ops4 ,! pall is g5]ally %[n on ! coats ( arms ( ar*bi%ops4 7,see ,figure #acj47 ,! cope is "o ( ! s-call$ processional ve/m5ts4 ,x does n appe> be=e ! n9? c5tury1 & is app>5tly connect$ ) ,roman dress4 ,x 0 an out] cloak )\t sleeves1 & orig9ally 0 us$ z a protection f ! wea!r at op5-air processions 9 ,rome1 its ance/or probably be+ ! lac]na4 ,9 a simil> way ! almuce 0 a hood to protect ! head1 & su* articles1 z ,mr4 ,macali/] says1 ! cl]gy w\ld cont9ue to adopt 9 _! cold & draughty *ur*es or 9 op5-air processions4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acj4--,! coat ( arms ( ,?omas ,becket4 ,%[+ an ar*bi%op's pall4 ,( mona/ic habits ! e>lie/ 0 ! ,b5$ict9e1 consi/+ ( a cassock ov] :i* 0 worn ! c[l--a l>ge1 loose g[n1 ) hang+ sleeves & a hood atta*$ to x4 ,9 ! old times ! co/ume ( abbesses & nuns resembl$ ! m\rn+ habit ( wid[s1 :o (t5 retir$ to end _! days 9 a conv5t4 ,:5 ! ,engli% ,*ur* 0 re=m$1 ! ,mass ve/m5ts practically disappe>$4 ,! fir/ ,pray] ,book ( ,edw>d ,,vi prescrib$ = ! ,holy ,communion a :ite albe1 )\t any app>els1 ) a ve/m5t or cope1 :ile ! assi/ant prie/ or deacons 7 to we> albes ) tunicles4 ,! cope 0 also to be worn ) a pla9 albe or surplice on ,w$nesdays & ,fridays :5 !re 0 no communion4 ,! bi%op 0 to we> a ro*et1 a surplice or albe1 & a cope or ve/m5t4 ,! second ,pray] ,book prohibit$ ! use ( ! albe1 ve/m5t1 or cope to ! m9i/]1 all[+ him only a surplice1 :ile ! ar*bi%op or bi%op 0 all[$ a ro*et4 ,! ,act ( ,uni=mity upheld ! ornam5ts rubric ( ! fir/ ,pray] ,book ( ,edw>d ,,vi1 & ?is has nev] be5 sup]s$$4 ,! lawn sleeves ( ! mod]n bi%op develop$ f ! ro*et1 :i* 0 a k9d ( modifi$ albe1 :i* at fir/ _h a k9d ( tight-fitt+ sleeves or none at all4 ,ov] ?is ro*et is worn a black sat9 *im]e1 & z x 0 difficult to get ?is ov] ! bi%op's sleeves1 !y 7 remov$ f ! ro*et & are n[ fa/5$ to ! *im]e4 ,! black sc>f we h already consid]$4 ,x is cu/om>y at ! pres5t day = cl]gy ( ! ,engli% ,*ur* to we> ! academical hood ( _! univ]sity degree ov] _! surplices4 ,?is is orda9$ by ! fifty-eigh? canon1 b m9i/]s :o are n graduates are p]mitt$ to we>1 in/ead ( hoods1 "s dec5t tippet ( black1 be x n silk4 ,x appe>s t 9 ! "t ( ,elizabe?1 9 ev]yday dress1 m9i/]s wore a g[n & "s ( !m a silk hood4 ,! tippet is a survival ( ! almuce1 :i* we m5tion$ 9 connection ) ! cope1 & is "o ( ! s-call$ processional dresses4 ,x mu/ !re=e n be conf\nd$ ) ! amice1 :i* is a truly ecclesia/ical ve/m5t4 ,z be>+ on ! cons]vatism ( ! ,*ur* 9 matt]s ( dress1 we may m5tion t 9 ,holl&1 until rec5t times1 ! cl]gy wore a v old-fa%ion$ dress1 or p]haps x may bett] be describ$ z a picturesque uni=m1 consi/+ ( an old ?ree-corn]$ hat1 & a coat resembl+ ! ord9>y ev5+ dress-coat1 hav+ a long pleat$ /rip call$ ! mantle hook$ on ! neck1 & obvi\sly be+ a survival f an e>ly & m ample g[n ( "s k9d4 ,!y wore knee-bree*es buckl$ at ! knees1 & buckl$ %oes1 b ?is co/ume 0 only us$ :5 ! m9i/] 0 (ficiat+ at s]vice4 ,"s ( ! heads ( ! *ur*es 9 ,scotl& /ill adopt a k9d ( ,c\rt dress4 ,9 turn+ = a mom5t aga9 to ! ev]yday dress ( ! cl]gy1 ! me?od ( fa/5+ ! *>act]i/ic :ite *ok] at ! back seems to h come f ! b&s4 ,?ack]ay 9 ,! ,newcomes uses ! "n *ok] z mean+ a :ite necktie1 & x 0 also appli$ to ! old lea!r /ocks :i* ! cl]ical coll>1 9 its /iffness1 resembles4 ,! bi%op's hat we h already allud$ to1 z %[+ ! /age 9 a process ( cock+1 ! brim be+ ti$ to ! cr[n by /r+s4 ,! cl]ical gait]s we c d]ive f ! old episcopal busk9s1 :ile ! apron appe>s to be a ve/ige ( ! cassock to :i* we h be=e ref]r$4 ,! dress ( monks usually consi/s ( a tunic or clos$ g[n & scapul>1 :ile !re may be "o or m op5 g[ns ) a hood at ! back4 ,nuns or ,si/]s ( ,m]cy are s commonly se5 9 our /reets1 & !y d s mu* = ! b5efit ( ! poor1 & take su* a "p 9 educational matt]s1 t _! dress is v famili> to u4 ,x is difficult to say h[ old x may n be1 & ?\gh /iff hoods simil> to ^? :i* are n[ 9 use by nuns 7 adopt$ by wom5 g5]ally 9 ,tudor times1 we f9d 9 ! head-dress ( ,h5ry ,,ii's reign ! c\nt]p>t ( ! l95 b&s :i* surr\nd ! face & hide ! hair4 ,! o!r g>m5ts ( nuns may h ! same orig9 z ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts1 = ! dress ( ! ,roman wom5 0 v mu* l t ( ! m54 7,see ,figures #abh & #aca-acc47 ,!re are1 ( c\rse1 _m ord]s1 congregations1 & communities ( nuns1 b we may describe ! dress ( "o ( ! latt]1 & !n make a few additional rem>ks4 ,9 ! case ( ! ,kilburn ,si/]s ( ! ,*ur*1 :o are ,engli% ,ca?olics--b :o h d$icat$ _! lives to religion 9 ! same way z ! ,roman ,ca?olic nuns--! indoor dress consi/s ( a :ite cap1 ! desc5dant ( ! ,norman *9-b&1 :i* fits tightly r\nd ! head--z ! hair ( all nuns is1 ( c\rse1 cut close--& x is ga!r$ r\nd ! face ) a /r+4 ,?is cap1 if x comes d[n l[ on ! =ehead1 correspond+ly cov]s ! *91 b 9 _m cases ! latt] is free4 ,ov] ! :ite cap 9 indoor dress a black veil is worn 9 ! case ( pr(ess$ nuns1 a blue veil by novices1 :ile po/ulants1 :o may be tak5 z correspond+ to probation]s 9 a hospital1 we> only a cap1 ?\gh 9 *apel !y h a :ite veil z well4 ,r\nd ! neck ( ! ,si/] is a :ite coll>1 :i* 9 ?is case is sep>ate f ! cap & buttons on to x at "o side4 ,?is coll>1 :i* l ! veil may be trac$ to ! wimple ( ,norman & lat] ladies1 is also call$ a brea/ clo? or a gremial1 & may be1 z we h indicat$1 made 9 "o piece ) ! cap4 ,9 outdoor dress a /iff :ite hood is plac$ ov] ! indoor head-dress1 & ov] t aga9 comes ! outdoor black veil4 ,x %\ld be m5tion$ t ! ,kilburn ,si/]s n[ p9 _! veils to ! sides ( _! l95 caps 9 exactly ! same way t ! dame 9 ! "t ( ! e>ly ,plantag5ets did h] wimple to ! sides ( h] *9-b&4 ,= work+ ,si/]s1 ! re/ ( ! co/ume is a habit ) sk9-tight sleeves1 ?\gh !re are also mo/ volum9\s out] sleeves :i* are deta*able & c be remov$4 ,a small cape is button$ across ! *e/1 & ! numb] ( buttons corresponds ) ! lett]s 9 ! ^w ,ob$i5ce4 ,an apron is also worn & a ?ick girdle1 to "o ( ! hang+ ends ( :i* a cross is atta*$4 ,o!r ,si/]s we> a scapul> ) %\ld]-/raps1 ov] a :ite cape4 ,nuns are n all[$ to we> gloves1 & "s ord]s use s&als1 ?\gh absolutely b>efoot$ ord]s exi/4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aca4--,! head-dress ( a nun %[+ ! veil & brea/-clo? d]iv$ f ! wimple1 ! cap :i* repres5ts ! *9-clo?1 toge!r ) ! frontal & ! hood4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acb4--,! head-dress ( a lady ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,ii4 ,! wimple is %[n cov]+ ! *9- & head-b&s 7aft] ,cal?rop74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acc4--,! *9-b& & =ehead /rap aft] ! wimple has be5 remov$ 7aft] ,cal?rop74 ,! lay si/]s ( ! community "u consid]ation we> a blue habit & a :ite cap ) flaps4 ,"s ord]s1 9 addition to ! :ite cap1 we> a pla9 b& r\nd ! =ehead ov] x1 :i* is call$ a frontal1 & is se5 9 ! dress ( ,h5ry ,,ii's "t4 7,see ,figures #aca & #acc47 ,pr(ess$ si/]s we> a w$d+ r+ on ! ?ird f+] ( _! "r h&4 ,! :ite outdoor /iff5$ hoods (t5 /& "r up f ! head 9 a v /rik+ way1 & sometimes no veils are worn4 ,"s ( ! caps1 :i* are made 9 "o piece ) ! coll>1 are fa/5$ "u ! *9 by two /r+s1 & ! g(f]$ edges ( ! coll> recall ! b&s ( ! ,/u>t p]iod4 ,,xxi ,,sunday ,,clo!s ,,! ,,significance ,,( ,,sunday ,,clo!s--,,! ,,we>+ ,,( ,,hats ,,9 ,,*ur* ,,by ,,ladies ,sunday clo!s are a "t-hon\r$ in/itution1 ?\gh x is a sign ( ! times t _m n[ make no diff]5ce betwe5 _! weekday co/ume & t :i* !y we> on ! day ( re/1 or if !y d1 !y only put on g>m5ts :i* are appropriate to ! relaxations 9 :i* !y are accu/om$ to indulge4 ,/4 ,j]ome & ,/4 ,clem5t bo? exhort$ ! e>ly ,*ri/ian wor%ipp]s to we> a special dress = wor%ip1 & ! ,jews 9 _! synagogues put on a ve/m5t call$ a tali?1 :i* is us$ by ! :ole ( ! congregation z well z by ! (ficiat+ m9i/]4 ,we quote ! foll[+ passage f ,/4 ,clem5t#bi because x deals ) ! "q ( wom5 hav+ _! heads cov]$ :ile at *ur*3 ,! wife & ! husb& %\ld take _! way unto ! *ur*1 9 seemly app>el1 ) unaffect$ gait1 & spee* refra9$2 hav+ love unfeign$2 pure 9 body & pure 9 he>t2 fitly deck$ = pray] to ,god4 ,& ?is fur!r let ! woman h3 let h] :olly cov] h] head 7unless p]*ance %e be at home71 = s dress$ %e w h respect & be )drawn f gaz+ eyes4 ,& if ?us ) mode/y1 & ) a veil1 %e cov]e? h] own eyes1 %e %all nei!r be misl$ h]self1 nor %all %e draw o!rs1 by ! exposure ( h] face1 into ! dang]\s pa? ( s94 ,= ?is wille? ! ,^w2 see+ t x is meet = ! woman t %e pray ) cov]$ head4444 ,b !n s z !y1 :o are jo9$ to ,*ri/1 adorn !mselves1 9 a m solemn fa%ion1 = assemblies ( ! *ur*1 ev5 su* %\ld !y ev] be1 ev5 s be fa%ion$1 all ! days ( _! life4 ',to be1 n seem to be1' let t be _! wat*word2 g5tle1 rev]5t1 full ( holy love1 at "o "t n less ?an at ano!r4 ,b x is n s1 inde$4 ,someh[ do? x come ab\t1 t1 ) *ange ( place1 !y *ange bo? _! habit & _! mann]s2 ev5 z ! polypus is said to *ange ea* "o 8 col\r to ! semblance ( ! rock :]eby he dwells4 ,x w be rememb]$ t n long ago objection 0 tak5 by a m9i/] to wom5 appe>+ 9 8 *ur* )\t any hats4 ,x w\ld appe> t ! :ole cu/om is a relic ( t /ill obs]v$ 9 ea/]n c\ntries1 :]e wom5 cov] n only _! heads1 b also _! faces1 ?\gh1 z po9t$ out 9 an e>li] *apt] 7see page #ac71 9 "s places x is /ill consid]$ m immode/ to uncov] ! back ( ! head ?an to expose any o!r "p ( ! p]son2 & 9 ,egypt1 = in/ance1 an ,arab woman di/urb$ :5 draw+ wat] w ?r[ h] s+le g>m5t ov] h] head 9 ord] to hide x4 ,"o is r afraid t ^? ladies :o foll[ ! l9es laid d[n by ,/4 ,clem5t z to cov]+ _! heads 9 *ur* sometimes obey 8 injunctions 9 ! lett] r ?an 9 ! _s4 ,= sc(f]s h be5 f\nd :o say t "o ( ! reasons :y fa%ionable ladies g to *ur* is to %[ _! own new hats & g[ns & to look at ^? belong+ to _! neighb\rs4 ,! "q ( cov]+ ! head 0 t\*$ ^u :5 deal+ ) s]vants' dress 9 connection ) ! cap ( ! h\semaid4 7,see page #adi47 ,! greate/ contra/ betwe5 ,sunday & weekday clo!s is to be look$ = 9 ! c\ntry among agricultural lab\r]s1 z ! cessation ( lab\r gives an opportunity = disc>d+ ! r\gh & heavy g>m5ts ( ! field 9 fav\r ( some?+ light] & ( bett] quality1 & ?is q ap>t f ! religi\s idea :i* no d\bt fir/ l$ to ! practice4 ,probably ! cu/om ( putt+ on ,sunday clo!s 9 ! c\ntry w survive until ! rural exodus1 :i* has un=tunately begun1 has l$ to ! complete depopulation ( our villages4 ,,xxii ,,academical ,,dress ,,g[ns ,,& ,,hang+ ,,sleeves--,,! ,,=]unn] ,,( ,,! ,,hood--,,! ,,orig9 ,,( ,,! ,,doctor',s ,,hat--,,! ,,evolution ,,( ,,! ,,mort>-,,bo>d ,_m compla9ts h be5 v ju/ly made aga9/ ! solemnity1 if n ! ugl9ess1 ( m5's mod]n ev5+ dress4 ,on important occasions x may be m or less enliv5$ by ! ribbons & />s ( v>i\s ord]s1 b we really get a return to some?+ ( m$ival brightness at ^? functions connect$ ) ! univ]sities at :i* academical dress is worn4 ,!n ! black coats & tr\s]s are practically hidd51 9 _m cases by sc>let1 by purple1 & o!r col\r$ g[ns4 ,occasionally !re are comb9ations ( col\rs :i* are try+ to ! eyes ( _m1 b on ! :ole ! effect is "o t is pleas+ & wor?y ( repetition4 ,academical dress is 9 itself a survival1 & ! gay col\rs are almo/ en\gh to tell u ?is4 ,records exi/ :i* %[ t 9 ! fifte5? c5tury !y 7 already adopt$ by ! graduates ( our univ]sities4 ,! evid5ce :i* has be5 br\ght =w>d z to ! orig9 ( academic co/ume po9ts to its hav+ be5 d]iv$ f t ( ! cl]gy2 b !re are int]e/+ connections ) civil dress1 z we %all see4 ,"o ( ! special features ( _m academic g[ns is _! long hang+ sleeves1 & we %all f9d t s long ago z ! "t ( ,william ,rufus sleeves _h gr[n s long t x _h become conv5i5t to make a hole ?r\gh !m ?r\gh :i* ! h& & =e>m c\ld be protrud$4 7,see ,figure #acd47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acd4--;,hang+ sleeve ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,^! sleeves took ^u !mselves all sorts ( =ms1 & !y 7 made s long & n>r[ t !y resembl$ v mu* ! elongation ( ! hood :i* 0 call$ a liripipe4 ,occasionally x 0 f\nd necess>y to knot !m s t !y %\ld n trail ^u ! gr\nd4 ,v few p>ts ( dress h v>i$ s mu* z sleeves1 & x is said t any co/ume c be dat$ by an exam9ation ( ! sleeves4 ,n[adays1 z 9 ! pa/1 ! l5g? ( ! sleeve & ( ! g[n itself indicates ! /atus ( ! memb] ( ! univ]sity4 ,at ,ox=d1 = in/ance1 ! und]graduate's g[n is s %ort t x is h>dly wor?y ( ! "n1 & x is )\t sleeves t act z su*4 ,! s*ol>'s g[n is m volum9\s1 & ! g[ns ( ! ba*elors & ma/]s ( arts are m important aga91 :ile ! sleeves belong+ to ! latt] rea* ne>ly to ! gr\nd4 ,:5 we come1 h[ev]1 to ! robes ( ! ,*ancellor1 :i* are made ( /iff] mat]ial1 we f9d t ! anci5t "* ( ! hang+ sleeves is mu* m m>k$ 7see ,figure #ace71 & !re is a tra9 s long t small pages are told (f to support x4 ,9 ! old days1 ! mat]ial ( :i* ! g[ns 7 made1 & _! trimm+s indicat$ ! rank ( ! we>]s2 &1 z ,mr4 ,druitt#cj po9ts out1 ! ba*elor1 = in/ance1 0 unable to use fur ( s co/ly a k9d z t worn by 8 academical sup]iors4 ,/uff or silk g[ns /ill h _! significance1 & 9 ! hoods :i* are ! survival ( a "p ( dress :i* 0 once useful & worn by graduates & und]graduates alike1 we f9d great div]sity 9 ! case ( ! v>i\s degrees ( diff]5t univ]sities4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ace4--,! hang+ sleeve ( a ,*ancellor ( ,ox=d ,univ]sity4 ,z a head cov]+1 ! cap took ! place ( a hood1 & ! latt] fell d[n beh9d l t (t5 se5 on a mod]n ul/]4 ,we h already notic$ 7p4 #aeg7 h[ ?is peak ( ! hood 0 exagg]at$1 & 9 old times ! liripipe 0 long] 9 ! case ( und]graduates4 ,! mod]n hood ( ! univ]sities has gr[n 9 size1 b x has lo/ its long /ream]4 ,examples are1 ( c\rse1 mo/ commonly se5 9 *ur*es1 z x is a cu/om ( ! cl]gy to we> _! academical hoods ov] _! :ite surplices4 ,! col\r ( ! hood & ( its l9+ indicates1 to ! initiat$1 ! univ]sity to :i* ! we>] belongs1 & ! degree :i* he has tak54 ,9 e>ly times a tippet or cape made ( fur or clo? edg$ or l9$ ) fur1 accord+ to ! degree1 0 also worn4 ,to ?is we h allud$ :5 speak+ ( ! surplice 7see page #aii74 ,x seems also to h orig9ally be5 a k9d ( hood :i* develop$ fir/ into ! almuce1 "o ( ! processional ve/m5ts ( ! prie/hood4 ,?is 0 cov]$ by ! ecclesia/ical cope1 b 0 worn outside ! academical g[n4 ,doctors ( ,div9ity 7 all[$ to we> sc>let tippets1 & ! col\r survives n[ 9 _! academical hood1 & ! ord9>y black almuce ) its fur l9+ has n be5 greatly *ang$ 9 becom+ ! hood ( ! ,ba*elor ( ,arts4 ,sometimes ! tippet & sometimes ! hood 0 worn 7if we may judge f monum5tal brasses71 b also !y 7 bo? put on at ! same "t4 ,! figure ( a doctor embroid]$ on a fifte5?-c5tury cope belong+ to ! ,pro-,ca!dral ( ! ,apo/les at ,clifton1 depicts him we>+ a tippet edg$ ) :ite1 a r$ hood1 & a r$ cap4 ,8 g[n1 :i* is work$ 9 gold ?read1 is %[n ) a blue l9+4 ,p]haps no =m ( head-dress is m /range ?an ! college cap or mort>-bo>d1 or1 9 te*nical language1 pileus quadratus1 or cat] cap4 ,?is skull-cap1 ) its curi\s squ>e top1 is n ! only k9d ( academical head-dress4 ,!re is ! r\nd cap :i* is especially t ( ! doctor1 :ile ! mort>-bo>d or tr5*] already m5tion$ is us$ by ma/]s & ba*elors1 z well z by und]graduates & s*ol>s4 ,! =m] head-dress seems to h be5 v little alt]$1 & 0 develop$ some:]e ab\t ! f\rte5? c5tury or e>li] f ! ecclesia/ical skull-cap1 :i* 0 some?+ l an old-fa%ion$ man's nightcap1 ) a tuft4 ,! squ>e cap is an und\bt$ desc5dant ( ! ecclesia/ical cap ( dignity1 & 9 ,engl& ?is also came f ! skull-cap already m5tion$4 ,t[>ds ! end ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 :ile /ill us$ by ecclesia/ics1 x began to assume a squ>e or cusp$ %ape4 ,pr(4 ,e4 ,c4 ,cl>k#ca agrees ) ! op9ion express$ to him by ! late ,dr4 ,littl$ale1 t folds 7 introduc$ into ! s(t mat]ial 9 ord] to make ! cap easi] to hold1 = by !m x 0 /iff5$4 ,! folds became f\r w+s1 & s conv]t$ ! r\nd top into a squ>e4 ,f ?is x 0 b a %ort /ep to ! ecclesia/ical biretta ( ! pres5t day4 ,any fur!r exagg]ation ( its top w\ld cause ! cap to fall d[n on ! face1 & w\ld naturally sugge/ ! ins]tion ( some?+ to /iff5 x & hold x out1 & 9 ! end ! squ>e top ( ! cap 0 made ( c>dbo>d cov]$ ) clo?1 & a skull-cap 0 fix$ to x und]nea?4 7,see ,figure #acf47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acf4--;,a college cap or tr5*]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #acg4--;,cranm]'s hat1 illu/rat+ a /age 9 ! evolution ( a mort>-bo>d 7aft] ,fairholt74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ach4--,! hat ( a bi%op ( ! ,/u>t ,p]iod %[+ a /age at :i* ! /iff5+ n[ se5 9 ! mort>-bo>d 0 becom+ necess>y 7aft] ,fairholt74 ,!re is a lik5ess betwe5 ! r\nd hat ( ! doctor & ! ,tudor flat cap1 & ,fairholt w\ld d]ive ! mort>-bo>d f ! same head-dress2 & z illu/rat+ ! /ory ( its evolution1 he comp>es ! cap %[n 9 ! portrait ( ,cranm] 7see ,figure #acg7 9 ! ,briti% ,museum ) t ( a bi%op ( ! "t ( ,*>les ,i 7see ,figure #ach72 & "h aga9 ! ne$ = /iff5+ is obvi\s1 if ! enl>gem5t ( ! cr[n ( ! cap be c>ri$ any fur!r4 ,,xxiii ,,legal ,,dress ,,ve/iges ,,( ,,! ,,coif--,,hoods ,,& ,,g[ns--,,signs ,,( ,,m\rn+ ,x w\ld be /range if ! maje/y ( ! law did n dep5d to "s ext5t ^u dress1 & !re is no d\bt b t an impressiv5ess :i* w\ld o!rwise be abs5t f our c\rts is giv5 by wigs & g[ns4 ,! wigs !mselves are an int]e/+ survival1 & presumably are n m uncom=table to ! few :o n[ we> !m ?an !y 7 to _m 9 times gone by4 ,we w describe "h a few int]e/+ ve/iges among ^? :i* are to be met ) 9 legal co/ume4 ,any "o :o has an opportunity ( look+ on to ! top ( a judge's wig w notice a small circul> depression ab\t ?ree in*es across4 7,see ,figure #aci47 ,?is has a v int]e/+ hi/ory1 & 9 ord] to trace x we %all h to look at ! long wigs ( ! s]jeants-at-law1 f ^: ranks 9 ! pa/ mo/ ( ! judges us$ to come4 ,on ! s]jeant's wig we %all f9d t !re is a simil> depression1 & t x is fill$ ) a circul> :ite pat*1 hav+ a black c5tre1 & rem9d+ "o ( two l>ge pieces ( c\rt pla/]1 "o /uck ov] ! o!r4 7,see ,figure #adj47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aci4--,! wig ( a mod]n judge4 ,! :ite piece repres5ts ! coif1 or close-fitt+ cap ( :ite lawn or silk :i* resembles t ( a nun1 & ) :i* ! s]jeants-at-law on _! creation 7 deck$4 ,f ?is cap1 ! body to :i* ! s]jeants-at-law belong$ 0 call$ ! ,ord] ( ! ,coif4 ,x seems t ! orig9 ( ?is head-dress _c def9itely be settl$4 ,mr4 ,druitt#cb & ,mr4 ,paley ,baildon are cont5t to consid] x z "p ( ! insignia ( ! s]jeants-at-law1 9 ! same way t ! r\nd cap indicates ! possessor ( a doctor's degree1 & !y are n incl9$ to give cr$5ce to ! sugge/ion t ! coif 0 to hide ! tonsure or to prev5t its abs5ce f be+ notic$4 ,! black pat* repres5ts a black skull-cap t 0 worn ov] ! coif4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adj4--,! ve/ige ( ! coif f ! wig ( a s]jeant-at-law4 ,aft] hav+ be5 9 exi/5ce = _m hundr$s ( ye>s1 ! ord] ( s]jeants-at-law 0 aboli%$ by ,mr4 ,glad/one4 ,"l ,l9dley1 we believe1 is ! la/ memb] :o survives4 ,a black skull-cap is also worn by a judge1 b x is n to be conf\nd$ ) ! cap ( dignity :i* is us$ by him :5 pron\nc+ s5t5ce1 & :i* 0 ord]$ to be worn 9 *ur* :5 on circuit4 ,ord9>ily1 ! judge does n we> 8 sc>let g[n1 b a black "o1 ! girdle ( :i* has gr[n to a v great wid?4 ,! drab col\r ( ! trimm+s1 :i* does n h>monize well ) ! re/ ( ! g[n1 has rec5tly begun to give way to primrose1 & ! *ange is due to ! initiative ( ! late ,"l ,col]idge4 ,x is said t black g[ns :i* are worn by ! ,k+'s ,c\nsel & o!r b>ri/]s sup]s$$ ! col\r$ ones on ! dea? ( ,que5 ,m>y ,,ii1 & 9 reality 7 int5d$ z m\rn+ :i* has nev] be5 disc>d$4 ,legal g[ns h come d[n ) v little *ange f ! ,middle ,ages1 & are d\btless d]iv$ f ecclesia/ical ?r\gh academical co/ume4 ,! orig9al robes ( ! s]jeants-at-law 7 some:at /rik+ 9 col\r1 = tak+ a l9e d[n ! c5tre ( ! black1 "o half 0 ( a mu/>d col\r & ! o!r r$1 :ile ! latt] 0 fur!r ornam5t$ ) gre5 /ripes4 ,! robe ( ! ,b>ons ( ! ,ex*equ] 0 ( a beautiful heliotrope t9t4 ,! mat]ial ( ! g[n ( ! ,k+'s ,c\nsel is indicat$ by ! phrase tak+ silk4 ,"o peculi>ity ( ! g>m5t is t x has a l>ge coll> resembl+ t ( c\rt-u%]s & ( v]g]s 9 *ur*es4 ,! ord9>y dress ( ! ,k+'s ,c\nsel :i* he we>s 9 c\rt is int]e/+ on acc\nt ( ! ornam5tal cuffs & ! escallop$ flaps ( ! pockets ( ! coat & wai/coat1 :i* resemble ^? ( ,c\rt dress4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ada4--;,a b>ri/]'s g[n %[+ ! ve/igial hood & its /ream]4 ,! buttons & braid :i* once tempor>ily loop$ up ! sleeves n[ fix x p]man5tly4 ,on ! b>ri/]'s g[n !re is a t9y hood on ! left %\ld] resembl+ t f :i* ! *ap]on 0 develop$1 & f ! ve/ige runs a /ream] :i* comes ov] ! left %\ld] & hangs d[n 9 front ( ! g[n4 7,see ,figure #ada47 ,!re is also a s]ies ( buttons z well z pieces ( braid on ! sleeves :i* are survivals1 & we h n ! hang+ sleeves ( ! ,k+'s ,c\nsel1 :i* are comp>able to ^? se5 9 _m academic g[ns4 ,small fall+ b&s are ( c\rse g5]ally worn by memb]s ( ! legal pr(ession1 & b>ri/]s & ,k+'s ,c\nsel :5 9 m\rn+ h a little pleat d[n ! middle ( ea* b&4 ,p]haps ! mo/ curi\s additions to legal co/ume us$ 9 ord] to indicate m\rn+ are ! little :ite lawn or musl9 cuffs1 l ^? ( wid[s1 :i* ! ,k+'s ,c\nsel we> on _! sleeves :5 ! ,c\rt is 9 m\rn+1 or :5 !y !mselves h suff]$ b]eavem5t4 ,,xxiv ,,/ate ,,& ,,c\rt ,,attire ,,coronation ,,dress--,,p>liam5t>y ,,robes--,,mi/akes ,,9 ,,c\rt ,,dress--,,ve/iges ,,( ,,! ,,wig ,,& ,,( ,,! ,,*ap]on--,,c\rt ,,c>ds ,! ,engli% sov]eigns are heads ( ! ,*ur* z well z ( ! ,/ate1 & 9 connection ) _! coronation dress !re are1 z might be expect$1 _m survivals f ! pa/4 ,! ve/m5ts us$ on ! occasion 9 "q agree almo/ entirely ) ^? :i* we h describ$ z be+ worn by a bi%op at mass4 ,we may except1 h[ev]1 ! amice & ! maniple1 :ile ! sceptre & cr[n take ! place ( ! crosi] & ! mitre4 ,! fir/ ve/m5t to be put on is ( l951 & is an albe or ro*et1 & up to ! "t ( ,james ,,ii x 0 provid$ ) sleeves--x is kn[n z ! ,colobium s9donis4 ,ov] ?is is plac$ ! tunicle or dalmatic4 ,?is is made ( silk1 & across x is worn ! /ole 9 ! same way z deacons 7 ord]$ to d 9 ! ye> #efa4 ,! cu/om is /ill foll[$ 9 ,greece & ,rome1 :]eas prie/s g5]ally put on ! /ole imm$iately aft] ! albe4 ,ov] ! dalmatic comes ! imp]ial mantle :i* seems to h be5 orig9ally a *asuble1 b is n[ slit up 9 front4 ,?is g>m5t1 :i* is ( clo? ( gold1 is embroid]$ ) eagles1 t are int]e/+ z probably repres5t+ ! claim ( ! ,k+ ( ,engl& to be ,emp]or ( ,brita9 & ,"l ,p>am\nt ov] all ! ,isl&s ( ! ,we/4 ,9 ,*>les ,,ii's reign fur!r ornam5ts occurr$ 9 ! %ape ( roses & fleur-de-lys1 & on ,que5 ,victoria's mantle !re 7 roses1 half r$ & half :ite1 z well z ?i/les1 %amrocks1 & fleur-de-lys1 :ile ! eagles 7 embroid]$ 9 silv]4 ,at ! coronation ( ,k+ ,edw>d ,,vii ! ve/m5ts :i* we h describ$ 7 all us$ ) ! exception ( ! albe1 & to ! o!r devices on ! imp]ial mantle ! lotus fl[] 0 add$ z a symbol = ,india1 z ! ,k+ 0 ! fir/ sov]eign to be cr[n$ z ,emp]or ( ,india4 ,! robe :i* ! ,k+ we>s at ! op5+ ( ,p>liam5t has a cape ( erm9e made up 9 m9iv] /yle1 & x is l9$ ?r\gh\t ) ! same fur4 ,we might "h say t ord9>y erm9e is decorat$ ) ! tails ( ! /oat1 :i* rema9 black :5 ?is animal puts on its w9t] dress1 :]eas 9 ! case ( m9iv] ! fur is spott$ all ov] ) little black pieces made f ! sk9 ( "s o!r animal4 ,?is has n always be5 ! same1 b at ! pres5t "t ,p]sian lamb is us$4 ,! magnific5ce ( ! ,k+'s p>liam5t>y robe & its tra9 ( crimson velvet may be ga!r$ f ! fact t 9 ! mak+ ( ! m9iv]1 upw>ds ( t5 ?\s& pieces ( black fur 7 us$4 ,9 a portrait ( ! ,k+1 tak5 :5 we>+ ?is robe1 he is %[n 9 ! uni=m ( a ,field ,m>%al1 & holds 9 8 h& ! ,field ,m>%al's baton4 ,! latt] orig9ally 0 a box 9 :i* ! g5]al c>ri$ ! ord]s ( 8 sov]eign1 & x is r curi\s t :at 0 once ! emblem ( ! s]vant %\ld come to be us$ by a cr[n$ head himself4 ,! rank ( noblem5 is indicat$ on _! p>liam5t>y robes by ! numb] ( b&s ( erm9e ) :i* !y are decorat$4 ,a ,b>on has two1 a ,visc\nt two & a half1 an ,e>l ?ree1 a ,m>quis ?ree & a half1 & a ,duke f\r1 :]eas on _! coronation robes ! same effect is ga9$ by a simil> numb] ( r[s ( black spots on ! m9iv]1 :i* =ms a k9d ( cape4 ,z 9 connection ) life at ,c\rt !re are a numb] ( special uni=ms & (ficial dresses :i* are c>efully prescrib$1 x is likely t we %\ld f9d among ! dress ( ^? surr\nd+ ! sov]eign1 _m & excell5t examples ( survivals4 ,!re is1 inde$1 "o uni=m :i* has come d[n to u practically unalt]$ f ! ye> #adhe4 ,?is is ! dress worn by ! ,yeom5 ( ! ,gu>d1 :o may be look$ ^u z ! ,k+'s ,reta9]s4 7,see ,figure #adb47 ,x is an obvi\s example ( ! po9t t we h dwelt ^u 9 connection ) badges & liv]ies1 = borne on ! back & *e/ are ! royal cr[n & initials4 ,( c\rse1 ! latt] h alt]$ f "t to "t1 & :5 ! ,k+ came to ! ?rone ! ,tudor cr[n1 :i* _h be5 sup]s$$ by t ( ,/4 ,edw>d1 0 replac$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adb4--;,a ,yeoman ( ! ,gu>d ( ! pres5t reign4 ,! developm5t ( ! badges on ! coat is int]e/+4 ,9 ,h5ry ,,vii's reign !re 0 ! cr[n & ! r$ & :ite rose4 ,9 ! "t ( ,anne ! ?i/le 0 add$1 & ! rose 0 plac$ ^u a /alk4 ,! ,tudor cr[n 0 also replac$1 = dur+ ! ,/u>t p]iod1 ,/4 ,edw>d's cr[n _h appe>$1 & ! royal motto 0 add$4 ,9 ! ,georgian p]iod ,/4 ,edw>d's cr[n aga9 0 made use (1 :ile ,george ,,iii add$ ! %amrock4 ,n[1 9 ,k+ ,edw>d ,,vii's "t1 we h ! ,tudor cr[n1 ! rose1 ?i/le1 & %amrock1 ! motto ,dieu et mon droit1 & ! initials ,e4,r4 ,:at ! orig9al uni=m 01 is n q c]ta91 b practically ! same k9d ( coat 0 worn 9 ,h5ry ,,viii's reign t appe>s n[4 ,! ruff w\ld appe> to be ,elizabe?an1 ?\gh ! hat is e>li]4 ,! (fic]s us$ to we> a simil> b m gorge\s uni=m1 b :5 ,william ,,iv comm&$ t only (fic]s ( ! army %\ld be giv5 commissions 9 ! ,gu>d1 ! pres5t dress1 :i* is t ( a field (fic] ( ! ,p59sul> p]iod1 0 introduc$4 ,:5 ,k+ ,edw>d ,,vii came to ! ?rone he left ! decision z to :e!r !y %\ld we> ! old ,tudor dress1 to ! (fic]s !mselves1 & !y decid$ 9 fav\r ( ! m mod]n milit>y "o4 ,we might m5tion ! halb]ds t are c>ri$ by ! ,yeom51 & also allude to "s ( ! duties :i* !y h c>ri$ out1 f ! mak+ ( ! ,k+'s b$ 9 e>ly times to se>*+ ! ,h\ses ( ,p>liam5t be=e ! session op5s1 :i* is a memory ( ,guy ,fawkes1 & ( att5d+1 z !y h done = c5turies1 at ! giv+ ( alms by ! sov]eign 9 ,we/m9/] ,abbey on ,maundy ,?ursday4 ,v _m uni=ms se5 at ,c\rt %[ ! turn$-back edges & ! l9+ ( ! tails1 describ$ :5 we 7 deal+ ) ! evolution ( ! coat 7see p4 #cd7--;= in/ance1 9 ! case ( ! g5tlem5-at-arms1 & ( sev]al (ficials4 ,we may m5tion also ! ,scotti% ,ar*]s :o we> a gre5 coat ) a turn$-back "p--:i* repres5ts ! l9+--( r$ velvet4 ,! /yle ( ,c\rt dress :i* may be worn to-day by civilians has become some:at simpl]1 ?\gh ruffles & frills are /ill to be f\nd 9 connection1 & may be worn )1 :at is kn[n z old-/yle dress t is always adopt$ by ! legal pr(ession4 ,! knee-bree*es come f ! "t ( ,william ,,iii1 & ! coat 9 its orig9al =m dates back to ! "t ( ,napoleon4 ,! sides ( ! coat h1 h[ev]1 be5 cut away1 & ?is 0 done dur+ ! la/ reign1 :5 ! alt]ation 0 made = ! conv5i5ce ( ^? :o 7 n accu/om$ to we> a sword4 ,! m rec5t simplification ( ,c\rt dress has1 h[ev]1 provid$ pitfalls = ! unw>y1 & all sorts ( curi\s mi/akes 9 small details are made4 ,to %[ h[ easy x is to put a button too _m "h1 or too few !re1 we may describe ! diff]5ces betwe5 ! old & new /yles4 ,on ! old !re are sev5 buttons up ! front ( ! coat & ?ree on ! cuffs4 ,9 ! new1 !re are b six 9 ! fir/ case & none 9 ! second4 ,aga91 9 ! simplifi$ coat !re are no buttons bel[ ! flaps 7:i* repres5t pockets71 & b f\r buttons beh9d on ! tails4 ,9 ! old /yle !re are ?ree buttons bel[ ! flaps--:ile !re are simil> ornam5ts on ! wai/coat1 :i* is skirt$--& !re are six buttons on ! tails4 ,!n 9 addition !re is ! wig-bag1 to :i* we %all ref] 9 a mom5t1 at ! back ( ! coat coll>1 z well z ! frills & ruffles4 ,al?\gh on ! lace ( ^! z mu* may be sp5t z on ! re/ ( ! co/ume1 ! co/ ( ! simpl] dress is really n mu* less ?an t ( ! o!r4 ,a survival is1 ( c\rse1 to be se5 9 ! sword & 9 ! simplifi$ co/ume1 x is worn 9 a frog in/ead ( on a sl+4 ,we h made x evid5t h[ mu* a man n[ dep5ds ^u 8 tailor = correctness 9 ! detail ( 8 ,c\rt dress1 & x is amus+ to f9d t wig-bags are put on to mod]n-/yle coats1 & t ! numb] ( buttons is (t5 q wrong2 b if ^! are ! faults ( ! tailor1 x is ! man himself :o is responsible :o goes to ,c\rt ) 8 sword hang+ at 8 "r side4 ,we h n he>d ( milit>y m5 mak+ su* a mi/ake1 b (fic]s h be5 kn[n to appe> ) _! cross-belts ov] ! wrong %\ld]4 ,x is a good ?+ = "s t ,c\rt etiquette is n s /rict z x has be5 9 ! pa/4 ,a curi\s survival is f\nd 9 connection ) old-/yle dress & "s ( ! uni=ms :i* are worn by (ficials1 & we h _h to m5tion simil> ve/iges :5 speak+ ( ! ,"l ,mayor's coa*man & ( ! ,wel% ,fusili]s4 ,?is is :at is kn[n z a wig-bag 7see ,figures #aji & #aac71 ?\gh 9 ! ,"l ,*amb]la9's descriptions x is n[ ref]r$ to by ! same "n z ! ornam5t ( some:at simil> orig9 ( ! ,wel% ,fusili]s1 namely1 ! fla%4 ,x consi/s ( a small bag ( silk1 at ! bottom corn]s ( :i* little sat9 ribbon loops are fix$1 :ile ! :ole is cov]$ by an elaborate rosette ( sat9 ribbon1 & is susp5d$ f ! back ( ! coat coll>4 ,! bag repres5ts ! old bag 9 :i* ! bob ( ! wig 0 plac$1 & ! loops no d\bt are ^? ?r\gh :i* a ribbon 0 pass$1 :i* w5t r\nd ! neck ( ^? :o wore wigs1 & 0 secur$ by a jewel on ! brea/4 ,?is 0 to provide aga9/ ! wig be+ lo/1 %\ld x fall f ! head ( its we>]1 = ^! curi\s replacem5ts ( natural hair 7 ( consid]able value1 co/+ tw5ty1 ?irty1 sixty or ev5 m gu9eas4 ,! rosette ( ribbon is ! mod]n repres5tative ( ! b[ t ti$ ! wig4 7,see ,figure #adc47 ,we h already trac$ ! connection :i* ,mr4 ,cal?rop has %[n betwe5 ! cockade & ! *ap]on1 & we might m5tion aga9 t ?is anci5t =m ( head-dress survives 9 connection ) ! hood ( ! mantle ( ! ,knights ( ! ,g>t] & ( o!r ,ord]s1 = in/ance1 ^? ( ,/4 ,patrick & ( ! ,?i/le4 7,see ,figure #add47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adc4--,! wig-bag or fla% f a ,c\rt suit1 %[+ ! rosette held away & display+ ! black silk bag4 ,at ! l[] corn]s ( ! latt] loops are se51 :i* are probably ! rema9s ( ^? ?r\gh :i* a ribbon 0 pass$1 :i* w5t r\nd ! neck & fa/5$ on ! brea/ by a broo*4 ,9 ! case ( ! ,knight ( ! ,g>t]1 ! hood consi/s ( a flat piece ( crimson velvet ab\t ?ree-qu>t]s ( a y>d across1 slightly oval 9 %ape1 & at a spot a little on "o side ( ! c5tre is to be f\nd ! rema9s ( ! turban ( ! *ap]on4 ,x is a ?ick r+ cov]$ outside ) crimson velvet1 & inside ) :ite silk4 ,to "o side ( ?is is fa/5$ a long b& ( crimson velvet "o & ?ree-qu>t] times z long z ! hood is wide4 ,?is repres5ts1 ( c\rse1 ! liripipe ( ! *ap]on4 7,see page #aff & ,figures #abb-abe47 ,! edges ( ! velvet 9 all cases are ornam5t$ ) a :ite silk pip+4 ,! hood is fix$ on ! "r %\ld]1 & ! b& repres5t+ ! liripipe is br\ght across ! brea/ ( ! we>]4 ,9 addition !re are "s wide loops & ends ( ribbon call$ ! /ream]1 & n>r[ ribbons ) :i* to fa/5 ! /ructure to ! mantle4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #add4--,! hood f ! mantle ( a ,knight ( ! ,g>t]1 %[+ ! survival ( ! *ap]on & its liripipe4 ,! hoods ( ! ,ord]s ( ! ,?i/le & ( ,/4 ,patrick are simil> 9 con/ruction1 & 9 ! case ( ! =m] ! velvet ( :i* !y are made is blue 9 col\r4 ,on ! mantles ( o!r ,ord]s only ! /ream] rema9s4 ,on ! left %\ld] ( ! ,knights ( ! ,ba? & ( ,/4 ,mi*ael & ,/4 ,george !re is a small ve/ige ( aiguillettes4 ,?is is ( silk cord 9 ! =m] case1 & ( gold cord 9 ! second4 ,! "u-dress1 :i* is n commonly worn n[1 is furni%$ ) trunk hose & silk tights1 & f its appe>ance is kn[n z ! silv] dress4 ,mu* ! same /yle 0 c>ri$ out 9 all ! ,ord]s t we h up to ! pres5t _h occasion to m5tion4 ,9 ! m mod]n ,ord]s !re is1 ( c\rse1 no su* anci5t "u-dress4 ,if we h ,k+s & ,que5s at ,c\rt1 we also h ,k+s & ,que5s & ,knaves among our play+-c>ds1 & ! co/umes :i* survive on ! curi\s pictures :i* repres5t !m 9 d\ble1 b )\t _! l[] limbs1 are wor?y ( "s little att5tion4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 !y are ,tudor dresses1 slightly modifi$ p]haps ( rec5t ye>s1 b nev]!less1 a common & widespread relic ( ! fa%ions :i* 7 9 vogue :5 ,h5ry ,,viii 0 go+ ?r\gh 8 matrimonial tr\bles1 & %ak+ ?is c\ntry cle> f its allegiance to ! ,pope4 ,!re are two s]ies ( c]emonial dresses n imm$iately connect$ ) ! ,/ate :i* x may be wor? :ile to inve/igate4 ,!y are1 9 ! fir/ place1 ! liv]ies ( ! ,city ,companies1 & 9 ! second ! insignia ( ,masons4 ,9 ! fir/ case1 on "s ( ! g[ns we f9d aga9 ! *ap]on appe>+ z a hood on ! %\ld]1 & _m ( ! caps t are worn h surviv$ = "s c5turies4 ,a few ( ! companies /ill possess _! anci5t embroid]$ he>se clo?s1 :i* recall ! e>ly semi-religi\s & provid5t purposes ( ! guilds out ( :i* ! great ,city ,companies h develop$4 ,!re seems no d\bt1 too1 b t ! apron ( ! ,masons is actually d]iv$ f t worn by ! craftsm5 :5 at "w1 & 9 "s c\ntries x is /ill ( ! same circul> =m z ^? :i* 7 us$ by ! ,engli% masons ( ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,o!r p>ts ( ! clo?+ ( ,masons are no d\bt d]iv$ f ! old guild liv]ies1 & 9 ! fact t "s high (ficials we> gauntlets we h a rem9d] ( ! knights' arm\r1 & possibly a survival f ! "t :5 high (ficials 7 knights4 ,,xxv ,,survivals ,,9 ,,milit>y ,,uni=ms ,,arm\r--,,prick]s ,,= ,,fl9t-,,locks--,,=age ,,cords--,,rem9isc5ces ,,( ,,gallantry--,,regim5tal ,,badges--,,c\rt%ip ,,col\rs ,! cuirass ( ! ,h\sehold troops :i* !y we> on important occasions1 z well z ! metal helmets ( v>i\s regim5ts1 are survivals f ! "t :5 arm\r 0 ( use1 & if we exam9e ! %\ld]s ( c]ta9 soldi]s1 we %all f9d t !re are ve/iges ( *a9 mail1 ?\gh n[ ?is only takes ! place ( epaulettes4 7,see ,figure #ade47 ,to see *a9 mail 9 its p]fection we mu/ g back to ! "t ( ,edw>d ,i1 & if we look1 = in/ance1 at ! brass ( ,sir ,john ,d',aub]n\n 7:o di$ 9 ! ye> #abgg7 or ( ,sir ,ri*>d de ,trump+ton1 ,a4,d4 #abhi 7see ,figure #adf71 :i* are ! e>lie/ rema9+ 9 ?is c\ntry1 we %all f9d t ! *a9 mail n[ repres5t$ by a little pat* on ! %\ld] !n cov]$ ! head & neck1 arms & h&s1 body1 feet & legs4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ade4--,relic ( *a9 mail on ! %\ld] ( an ,imp]ial ,yeoman4 ,z "t w5t on1 plate arm\r 0 mix$ ) ! mail1 until at la/1 9 ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,iv1 we get ! complete plate p]iod 9 :i* !re 0 a brea/plate & a correspond+ back plate1 :i* _h already appe>$ 9 ! p]iod ( transition ( *a9 mail to plate arm\r4 ,f !nce onw>d ! developm5t ( arm\r progress$ until x gradually disappe>$4 ,9 ,/u>t times1 jack boots & spur lea!rs took ! place ( ! arm\r on ! legs1 & a buff coat t on ! body1 ) ! exception ( a gorget4 ,?is came to be 9 ! e>ly "p ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 m]ely a small badge ( ! (fic] on duty1 & 9 a /ill m dim9i%$ =m is to be se5 9 "s =eign armies4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adf4--;,*a9 mail illu/rat$ by ! brass ( ,sir ,ri*>d de ,trump+ton1 ,a4,d4 #abhi4 ,9 ! e>li] "p ( ! book x 0 made evid5t t milit>y uni=ms af=d a f9e field = rese>*1 ?\gh ap>t f ! rema9s ( arm\r1 h[ev]1 !y are comp>atively mod]n4 ,x 0 n1 inde$1 until ! reign ( ,*>les ,,ii t we meet ) uni=ms regul>ly adopt$ by ! ,army2 & ! r$ coat :i* has giv5 its "n to ! soldi]1 ?\gh _m regim5ts are dress$ 9 o!r col\rs1 0 previ\s to t "t m]ely a be/ coat4 ,we see x n[ on fox-hunt]s & golf]s1 ?\gh a long coat ( ?is col\r is /ill worn by ! ,k+'s footm5 & coa*m54 ,a writ] 9 ! ,spectator1 ,no4 #abi1 says1 :5 speak+ ( ,cornwall3 ,"h we fanci$ ourselves 9 ,*>les ,,ii's reign1 p hav+ made little v>iation 9 _! dress s9ce t "t4 ,! sm>te/ ( ! c\ntry squires appe> /ill 9 ! ,monm\? cock2 :5 !y g a-woo+ 7:e!r !y h any po/ 9 ! militia or n7 !y put on a r$ coat4 ,!re _h previ\s to ! ,re/oration be5 "s attempt to introduce uni=m dress = soldi]s q ap>t f ! sov]eign's special gu>ds1 :o1 aft] ! fa%ion ( reta9]s1 wore 8 liv]y4 ,= in/ance1 ! ,duke ( ,norfolk1 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii1 issu$ in/ructions t e soldi] %\ld we> a blue coat gu>d$ ) r$1 ! "r hose to be r$1 ! left blue1 & a r$ /ripe ?ree f+]s broad d[n ! outside ( ea* leg4 ,! ar*]s are describ$ z we>+ :ite gab]d9es1 at "o "t 9 ?is reign1 :ile 9 #aegf ^? belong+ to ,irel& _h a cassock ( blue clo? ) two small :ite gu>ds4 ,r$ coats z well z o!rs ( blue or :ite 7 worn by ! ,engli% troops 9 ,tur5ne's army 9 #afeg1 & examples ( ! la/ two col\rs are by no means ext9ct 9 ! army to-day4 ,r$1 blue1 grey1 & gre51 x may be add$1 7 all worn dur+ ! ,civil ,w> on bo? sides4 ,x mu/ n be =gott51 h[ev]1 t gay uni=ms are n[ only us$ at home 9 times ( peace1 = we h le>nt a lesson f ! l[] animals1 _m ( :i* are protectively col\r$1 & ! s]vice uni=m to-day is "o calculat$ to r5d] its we>] z inconspicu\s z possible4 ,be=e ! "t ( fire>ms :i* c\ld be us$ ) precision1 & :5 h&-to-h& combats play$ a great "p 9 w>1 x 0 necess>y = two adv]s>ies to be able to see "o ano!r1 b n[ ea* tries to hide himself4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adg4--;,a rev]sion 9 milit>y equipm5t4 ,"o ( ,cromwell's ,ironsides 7#afgi71 f a pr9t4 ,a ,cavalryman sket*$ at ,ald]%ot 9 #aija4 ,copi$1 by p]mission1 f ! ,daily ,mail4 ,"s ye>s ago a sket*1 :i* 0 made f a cavalry man at ,ald]%ot1 0 giv5 9 ! ,daily ,mail2 side by side 0 %[n ano!r tak5 f a pr9t repres5t+ "o ( ,cromwell's ,ironsides1 & ! lik5ess betwe5 ! two is almo/ exact4 7,see ,figure #adg47 ,ornam5tal epaulettes may also be look$ ^u z ! la/ remnant ( arm\r1 ?\gh ! mod]n k9d probably came f a %\ld]-knot ( ,*>les ,,ii's "t1 z !y 7 orig9ally int5d$ to protect ! %\ld]s f sword-?ru/s4 ,at ! pres5t day1 ?\gh !y are worn 9 ! ,engli% ,navy & are common on ! ,cont95t1 !y h practically disappe>$ f ! ,army4 ,! (fic]s ( ! ,yeom5 ( ! ,gu>d1 ^: uni=m is t :i* 0 worn 9 ! ,p59sul> ,w>1 /ill we> epaulettes1 z d ! ,g5tlem5-at-,arms & ! ,lords-,lieut5ant ( ,c\nties4 ,z we h said1 !re is a f9e field = ! /udy ( survivals 9 uni=ms prop]1 & f "t to "t _m ( ^! h attract$ ! notice ( popul> writ]s4#ce #cf ,additional int]e/ is giv5 to ?is subject by ! fact t besides ! v>iations :i* h gradually evolv$1 !re are special features :i* h sudd5ly appe>$ (t5 9 connection ) "s important battle1 :i* we might lik5 to ! curi\s sports & freaks :i* sometimes occur 9 ! natural hi/ory _w4 ,:51 9 #ahha1 ! old regim5tal fac+s 7 aboli%$1 _m di/9ctions vani%$1 /ill !re are m curi\s details left ?an we %all be able to describe4 ,we h already se5 h[ ! busby 0 d]iv$ f ! ,hung>ian cap1 & q a numb] ( o!r features h be5 introduc$ f =eign c\ntries4 ,! squ>e cap ( ! ,lanc] is ! national head-dress ( ! ,poles1 :o call x a %apka1 & ! uni=m itself came f ,pol&4 ,! sl+ jacket or dolman ( ! ,huss>s 7see ,figure #hb71 :i* is n[ ext9ct 9 our army1 0 also an introduction1 b /ill on ! p\*-belt ( ,light ,cavalry (fic]s are ! prick]s fa/5$ ) silv] *a9s1 :i* 7 us$ ) old fl9t-lock muzzle-load]s4 7,see ,figure #adh47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adh4--,! prick]s on ! %\ld]-belt ( a ,huss>1 :i* survive f ! "t ( fl9t-lock muskets4 ,"s ( ^! int]e/+ b useless in/rum5ts are furni%$ ) pla9 r\nd knobs1 b o!rs made z if !y 7 arr[s ) fea!r$ %afts4 ,mr4 ,caton ,woodville gives ! foll[+ explanation ( ! aiguillettes worn by aides-de-camp4 ,he says t !y date f ! days :5 ! w>-horses1 or *>g]s1 7 ( solid build & sl[ ( movem5t1 & :5 only ! adjutants 7 m\nt$ on fleet /e$s4 ,!n ! head-dress 0 a heavy ?ree-corn]$ hat p]*$ on a wig t 0 itself (t5 n too securely fa/5$ to its we>]'s head4 ,he ne$$1 !re=e1 a cord ) metal tags pass+ r\nd ! brim & "u ! loops :i* upheld its ?ree sides4 ,x 0 fa/5$ to ! (fic]'s %\ld]1 z ! weight ( ! felt hat1 ) its b>s ( /eel z a protection aga9/ sword cuts1 0 consid]able1 & x 0 en\gh to *oke a man if x %\ld happ5 to dangle f 8 ?roat1 s ! aiguillettes h become ! di/+ui%$ m>k ( ! assi/ant to ! g5]al comm&+ 9 ! field or g>rison4 ,x %\ld1 h[ev]1 be m5tion$ also t ^! ornam5ts are worn 9 ! ,h\sehold ,cavalry by non-commission$ (fic]s1 & are a relic !re ( ! days :5 ^! soldi]s 7 g5tlem5 ( ! ,royal ,life ,gu>ds1 :o _h ! "r to a commission 9 a l9e regim5t aft] a c]ta9 numb] ( ye>s' s]vice4 ,o!r soldi]s c>ry !m1 z d also ! footm5 ( ! nobility4 ,horse soldi]s h also an ornam5tal cord to _! head-dresses1 & x seems likely t ! aiguillettes _h ano!r orig91 & t prick]s or "s o!r in/rum5ts 7 at "o "t atta*$ to !m4 ,9 ! ,lanc]s !re is a v long cap-l9e1 :i* has be5 mix$ up1 we are told by ,mr4 ,p4 ,w4 ,reynolds1 ) a v int]e/+ survival4 ,?is is ! rema9s ( a cord us$ = b9d+ up grass & o!r =age into bundles1 worn = conv5i5ce r\nd ! body1 & ov] "o %\ld] by cavalry m51 :5 x 0 n 9 use4 ,x is kn[n to ! ,fr5* z a f\rragre4 ,9 ! ,lanc]s ! cap-l9e passes r\nd ! cap & is br\ght "u ! "r %\ld]-/rap4 ,s f> x is ! orig9al cap-l9e2 !n x passes twice r\nd ! body1 "u ! left arm1 & "u ! "r %\ld]-/rap1 & ends1 9 a fe/oon & a c\ple ( acorns1 :i* rem9d "o ( aiguillettes1 on ! left brea/4 ,! "p t goes r\nd ! body is ! old =age cord4 ,! s]geants' sa%es1 x is said1 7 orig9ally int5d$ to make sl+s s t ! w\nd$ c\ld be c>ri$ out ( action ) ! help ( pikes1 & ! drum-major's baton is ! survival ( a cane :i* ! drill-s]geant sometimes us$ on ! backs ( ! recruits4 ,! fla% ( ! ,wel% ,fusili]s1 z we h se51 is a survival f ! times :5 wigs 7 worn4 ,"h & !re we f9d old head-dresses once ne>ly univ]sal1 su* z ! %ako :i* is n[ conf9$ to ! ,highl& ,light ,infantry & ! ,scotti% ,rifles4 ,o!r regim5ts1 su* z ^? ( ! ,rifle ,brigade1 :i* h be5 at times us$ z cavalry1 reta9 c]ta9 features ( ! horse soldi]'s uni=m4 ,= in/ance1 ! ,rifle ,brigade has a head-dress :i* resembles ! ,huss>s' busby1 & in/ead ( a sa% ! (fic]s we> a cross-belt4 ,! (fic]s ( ! ,som]set%ire ,light ,infantry1 :i* on "o occasion 0 turn$ into cavalry at a mom5t's notice1 we> a mess jacket ( ! cavalry patt]n2 !y h also a black worm 9 _! lace1 l ! ,ea/ ,york%ire & ,nor? ,lanca%ire regim5ts1 :i* is usually expla9$ z be+ m\rn+ = ,sir ,john ,moore 9 ! fir/ case1 & = ,g5]al ,wolfe 9 ! two o!rs4 ,be=e turn+ to peculi>ities :i* 7 grant$ = special s]vices1 we may m5tion ! black tunics & black plumes ( ! f>ri]s belong+ to ! ,life ,gu>ds1 :o c>ry a great axe ) :i* to kill horses t are w\nd$ 9 battle1 & ! /ate trumpet]s also ( ! ,h\sehold ,cavalry1 :o we> a highly ornam5tal uni=m :i* has p]si/$ = ne>ly two c5turies4 ,!re /ill rema9 relics ( ! "t :5 comm&+ (fic]s _h a great deal to say 9 connection ) ! uni=ms ( _! regim5ts4 ,:5 ! ,cam]on ,highl&]s 7 fir/ rais$ 9 #agid1 ,colonel ,cam]on did n adopt ! ,cam]on t>tan1 because he did n ?9k x w\ld g well ) a sc>let tunic1 & he introduc$ "o :i* _h be5 design$ by 8 "m1 call$ ! ,cam]on ,erra*t1 :i* has be5 worn ev] s9ce4 ,! ,:ite ,horse ( ,hanov] appe>s z a badge on sev]al regim5ts1 & x is record$ t ,george ,i1 object+ to ! private cre/s ( ! comm&+ (fic]s1 replac$ !m 9 _m cases ) ! ,hanov]ian device4 ,ev5 n[1 9 spite ( ! m9ute regulations ( ! ,w> ,(fice1 :i* are cont9ually be+ alt]$1 ! uni=ms are n always made absolutely z !y are prescrib$4 ,little details may be add$1 & colonels /ill seem to ex]cise "s influ5ce 9 ! matt]4 ,! r$ pugg>ee ( ! ,duke ( ,cornwall's ,light ,infantry is n obta9$ f ! regim5tal tailor :o supplies ! uni=m4 ,! :ite jackets ( ! ,gu>ds & ,highl& corps :i* are worn 9 undress are /ill call$ wai/coats1 &1 accord+ to ,mr4 ,walt] ,wood1 are a relic ( ! :ite wai/coat :i* 0 worn "u ! tunic by ! ,briti% soldi]s d[n to ! "t ( ,william ,,iv4 ,x mu/1 h[ev]1 be rememb]$ t a wai/coat 0 orig9ally an out] g>m5t1 z indicat$ on page #adh4 ,an exce$+ly curi\s privilege is t :i* has be5 accord$ to ! non-commission$ (fic]s & m5 ( ! ,royal ,m>9es1 :o = _m ye>s h be5 all[$ :5 9 m\rn+1 to cov] "o button ( _! tunics ) crape4 ,! ,eigh? ,huss>s we> _! sword-belts ov] _! %\ld]s1 & ! tradition is t at ! battle ( ,s>agossa !y behav$ s gallantly t !y totally de/roy$ a corps ( ,spani% cavalry & took possession ( _! adv]s>ies' belts4 ,p]haps ! mo/ curi\s m>k ( di/9ction is ! extra drumm] ( ! ,?ird ,huss>s1 :o enjoys special pay & is p]mitt$ to we> a s]geant's uni=m4 ,?is privilege 0 grant$ by ,george ,,iii :5 x 0 br\ght to 8 notice t ! regim5t possess$ "s silv] kettl$rums :i* !y _h captur$4 ,! reque/ = ?is hon\r 0 made 9 #aggh by ,g5]al ,fitzroy1 & 8 wife pres5t$ a silv] coll> = ! use ( ! additional drumm] :i* is /ill worn to-day4 ,x is h&somely engrav$ ) milit>y devices1 & fits closely r\nd ! ?roat4 ,9 full dress ! ,elev5? ,huss>s we> an ivory-hilt$ sword made on ! model ( "o pick$ up at ,bhurtpore4 ,! ,fifte5? ,huss>s we> ! ,au/rian ,imp]ial lace on acc\nt ( _! gallantry at ,villi]s-en-,c\*e1 :i* prev5t$ ! ,emp]or ( ,au/ria f fall+ a prison] to ! ,fr5*4 ,! ,scots ,greys 7 giv5 ,gr5adi] caps1 :i* are n worn by o!r cavalry regim5ts1 = _! brav]y at ,ramillies4 ,! ,nor?umb]l& ,fusili]s h r$ & :ite hackle fea!rs--t is to say1 t ! upp] "p ( _! plume is r$1 & ! l[] "p :ite4 ,x is record$ t at ,wilhelm/ahl1 & also :5 9 ,/4 ,lucia1 ?is regim5t 0 victori\s aft] great /ruggles1 & took f ! caps ( ! ,fr5* ,gr5adi]s :o 7 sla91 en\gh :ite fea!rs to fit up ! :ole regim5t ) plumes1 ! use ( :i* aft]w>ds receiv$ (ficial sanction4 ,:51 h[ev]1 an ord] 0 made 9 #ahbi t :ite plumes %\ld be g5]ally worn1 ! ,fusili]s compla9$ t !y w\ld lose ! di/9ction :i* !y enjoy$1 & by a compromise !y 7 all[$ to h a plume :i* 0 half r$ & half :ite4 ,! ,nor?umb]l& ,fusili]s %>e ) "o or two o!r regim5ts1 t di/+ui%$ !mselves at ! battle ( ,m9d51 ! privilege ( we>+ roses 9 _! caps on ,/4 ,george's ,day4 ,we might sp5d a consid]able "t 9 deal+ ) ! badges ( v>i\s regim5ts1 = (t5 ! hi/ory ( ! latt] is b\nd up ) !m4 ,!y figure on ! coll> & o!r p>ts ( ! uni=m1 & occasionally1 z badges might be expect$ to d1 !y appe> on ! buttons4 ,we h t\*$ ^u ?is subject 9 connection ) ,george ,i4 ,! ,scots ,greys h z a badge an eagle ) out/ret*$ w+s4 ,x commemorates ! capture ( a ,fr5* eagle at ,wat]loo by ,s]geant ,ew>t1 :o 0 giv5 a commission = 8 brav]y4 ,! ,gl\ce/]%ire ,regim5t has a badge 9 front & ano!r on ! back ( ! helmets1 because on "o occasion1 9 ,egypt1 :5 x 0 attack$ 9 ! re> z well z 9 front by l>ge bodies ( ,fr5* cavalry1 & !re 0 no "t to =m a squ>e1 ! comm&+ (fic] gave ! ord]1 ,re> rank1 "r ab\t face1 fire6 ,! result 0 t ! enemy 0 beat5 (f4 ,9 connection ) ?is a*ievem5t ! second badge 0 giv54 ,an int]e/+ tale is told ) reg>d to ! =mation ( ! ,gu>ds by ,*>les ,,ii aft] ! ,re/oration4 ,!re 7 ?ree regim5ts pres5t1 & !y 7 comm&$ to take up arms z ! ,fir/1 ,second1 & ,?ird ,gu>ds1 b :ile ! fir/ & ?ird obey$ ! ord]1 ,g5]al ,monk's regim5t /ood /ill4 ,! ,k+1 :o 0 surpris$ at ! app>5t insubord9ation1 ask$ ,monk = ! reason4 ,:]eupon he said t 8 regim5t decl9$ to be consid]$ second to any o!r4 ,z a result1 ,*>les is said to h answ]$1 ,v well1 !y %all be my ,cold/ream ,regim5t ( ,foot ,gu>ds1 & second to none4 ,f ?is comes _! motto1 ,nulli secundus4 ,x may be m5tion$1 also1 t ?is regim5t has a di/9ction :i* is absolutely unique 9 ! ,army1 z x be>s on ! ,k+'s col\r a small ,union ,jack1 :i* commemorates ! fact t ,monk 0 an ,admiral ( ! ,fleet z well z a ,g5]al4 ,x is only ab\t a hundr$ ye>s s9ce ! pret5sions ( ! ,engli% sov]eigns to ! ?rone ( ,france ceas$ to be evid5t1 = x 0 n until ! end ( ,george ,,iii's reign t ! ,fr5* fleur-de-lys 7 remov$ f ! ,royal ,arms & disappe>$ f our co9s4 ,!re is /ill1 h[ev]1 a survival ( ! lilies ( ,france on ! braid ( ! drumm]s 9 ! ,gu>ds4 ,:ite lace ) r$ cr[ns is :at is almo/ univ]sally worn by drumm]s 9 ! ,army1 b ! cr[n is replac$ 9 ! case m5tion$ by ! fleur-de-lys4 ,:il/ speak+ ( ! ,gu>ds1 "o may recall t n v long ago a uni=m 0 us$ by ! solicitor ) :i* ^! soldi]s 71 & 9 ! case ( ! ,cold/ream ,gu>ds are /ill1 provid$4 ,! solicitor1 l ! m$ical (fic]1 wore ! cock$ hat t is n[ dy+ out 9 ! ,army1 ?\gh g5]als & aides-de-camp /ill adopt ?is mo/ curi\s outcome ( ! ,cavali]'s beav]4 ,"h & !re1 z 9 ! case ( ! surgeon & vet]9>y surgeon ( ! ,life ,gu>ds1 & ! m$ical (fic]s ( "s ,volunte] regim5ts1 we /ill see ! cock$ hat4 ,x fl\ri%es also 9 ,c\rt dress1 x adorns ! ,lords-,lieut5ant & _! deputies1 besides ma9ta9+ its position among ! (fic]s ( ! ,navy4 ,fur1 ! mat]ial ( :i* ! fir/ clo!s ( our ance/ors 7 made1 is /ill se5 to a consid]able ext5t 9 ! ,army1 & is *iefly us$ = ! con/ruction ( busbies4 ,s important 0 ! trade 9 furs = milit>y purposes at "o "t1 t be>-sk9s 7 classifi$ z foll[s3 ,(fic]s1 or fir/ grade2 ,gr5adi]s1 or second grade2 & unfit = ! ,army1 or ?ird grade4 ,l all features ( dress :i* are exagg]at$1 ! big busbies ( ! ,gu>ds h on m ?an "o occasion af=d$ mat]ial = ! c>icaturi/4 ,lee* depict$ ! soldi]s ( ! ,brigade ( ,gu>ds w>m+ _! h&s & feet 9 _! busbies1 :i* !y us$ z muffs2 & an amus+ s]ies ( sket*es = ! amusem5t ( ! "y p 0 publi%$ n long ago1 9 :i* ! soldi] disappe>$ almo/ entirely into 8 busby & became a sort ( ,humpty-,dumpty4 ,tall hats ( ! type ( our mod]n silk hats 7 n unkn[n 9 ! ,army4 ,p]haps x may come z a %ock to "s t ,"l ,h[>d ( ,eff+ham is %[n 9 a portrait z we>+ a top hat1 9 %ape v simil> to ! mod]n =m1 b ornam5t$ ) a plume ( o/ri* fea!rs4 ,!re is1 we believe1 h[ev]1 /ill "o top hat :i* is s]v$ out by ! ,w> ,(fice at ! pres5t day1 & ?is is worn by ! ,*apel ,keep] at ,well+ton ,b>racks4 ,( buttons we h already spok5 times out ( numb]1 & x may be int]e/+ to m5tion "h t ! v>i\s regim5ts ( ! ,brigade ( ,gu>ds may be told by ! arrangem5t ( buttons on ! tunic4 ,!y are arrang$ at ev5 di/ances ap>t 9 ! ,gr5adi]s1 9 twos on ! ,cold/reams1 & 9 ?rees on ! ,scots ,gu>ds1 & 9 f\rs on ! ,iri% ,gu>ds1 :i* 7 creat$ ( rec5t ye>s4 ,we f9d pl5ty ( survivals 9 ! ,army ( buttons :i* are se5 9 simil> places to ^? on civilians' clo!s4 ,mr4 ,p4 ,w4 ,reynolds has po9t$ out ano!r1 :i* is f\nd 9 connection ) a cord loop on ! coll>s ( ! (fic]s ( ! ,ox=d%ire ,light ,infantry4 ,?is is a survival ( a fa%ion once univ]sal 9 ! ,briti% ,infantry1 ?\gh ! loop (t5 consi/$ ( half-in* lace in/ead ( cord4 ,! button 0 orig9ally on a turn$-d[n coll>1 & previ\s to t 0 on ! coat1 com+ ?r\gh a hole 9 ! coll> ) a view to hold+ ! latt] prop]ly 9 place4 ,if (fic]s & s]geants 7 se5 toge!r x w\ld probably be notic$ t ! =m] we> _! sa%es ov] ! left %\ld]1 :il/ ! latt] we> !irs ov] ! "r4 ,to ?is a s+le exception c1 h[ev]1 be f\nd4 ,9 ! ,tw5ty-n9? ,foot ! s]geants & (fic]s bo? we> _! sa%es ov] ! left %\ld]1 & ?is cu/om has be5 trac$ back to ! battle ( ,cullod51 :]e s _m (fic]s 7 sla9 t ! s]geants _h to take _! places4 ,! drumm]s ( ! ,leice/]%ire ,regim5t on /ate occasions we> tig]-sk9 aprons in/ead ( ! usual ones ( pipeclay$ lea!r4 ,?is is connect$1 z is also _! badge1 ) _! s]vices 9 ,india4 ,a po9t t is p]haps n g5]ally kn[n is t (fic]s go+ on voyages 9 hot climates are all[$ to sub/itute ! kam>b& = ! mess wai/coat1 v>i\s col\rs be+ adopt$ by v>i\s regim5ts4 ,we h se5 ! orig9 ( ! r$ coat s f> z x affects ! mod]n army4 ,"u ^! circum/ances x is h>dly necess>y to say t x is n int5d$ to prev5t ! soldi] f see+ 8 blood :5 he is w\nd$1 z has sometimes be5 sugge/$4 ,x might be tak5 z act+ z a w>n+ col\r l t ( ! wasp or hornet1 b we h also notic$ ! way 9 :i* conspicu\s dress is replac$ by protectively col\r$ uni=ms :5 ! soldi]s are ^u active s]vice4 ,we _c help m5tion+1 h[ev]1 "o case 9 :i* ! ornam5tal g>b ( peace proves useful to its we>]4 ,we f9d 9 ! animal k+dom t1 :atev] may happ5 9 mod]n times 9 our own case1 ! males are z a rule ! m brightly col\r$1 & we h come to call ! brilliant hues ) :i* !y are end[$ c\rt%ip col\rs4 ,! *>m :i* our gallant soldi]s seem to h = ! fair sex surely entitles u to reckon ! gay uni=ms ( our ,army z com+ into ! category ( c\rt%ip col\rs4 ,,xxvi ,,naval ,,uni=ms ,,suppos$ ,,survivals--,,petticoats ,,& ,,wide ,,bree*es ,if we _h head$ ?is *apt] survivals 9 naval dress1 we %\ld h be5 9 ! hi/oric pr$icam5t ( ! writ] :o took z 8 topic ! snakes ( ,icel&1 & aft]w>ds _h to own t !re 7 none4 ,x w\ld be bett]1 h[ev]1 if we 7 to say t !re are no survivals ( a /rictly naval k9d1 z !n we %\ld be ne>] ! tru?4 ,!re are1 ( c\rse1 9 ! uni=m ( bo? (fic]s & m51 pl5ty ( survivals f civilian co/ume1 su* z we h sp5t mu* "t 9 describ+4 ,?\gh ! crews ( ! galleys1 :i* are ! boats res]v$ = ! capta9's use1 _h1 9 ! case ( ! sm>t %ips1 long be5 dress$ 9 a uni=m mann]1 ! actual uni=ms ( ! ,navy only date f a little be=e ! ye> #agfg4 ,! col\rs1 blue & :ite1 s tradition says1 7 due to an inspiration :i* ,george ,,ii receiv$1 :ile ! subject 0 "u discussion1 on see+ ! ,du*ess ( ,b$=d rid+ 9 a new habit :i* 0 ( blue fac$ ) :ite4 ,!re are two po9ts 9 ! dress ( ! ord9>y sailor :i* are commonly suppos$ to be int]e/+ survivals1 & inde$ !y appe> on ! surface to h all ! mak+s ( su*4 ,x has be5 ?\ght t ! black silk h&k]*ief :i* a sailor we>s r\nd 8 neck 0 fir/ put on z m\rn+ = ! dea? ( ,nelson4 ,! o!r matt] is ! blue jean coll> :i* cov]s ! simil>-%ap$ "o :i* is made ( ! same mat]ial z ! sailor's jump]4 ,?is w\ld no d\bt h protect$ its fell[ f ! grease ( ! pigtail :i* sailors wore once2 b ,comm&] ,rob9son1 :o has gone into ! "q1 says t pigtails 7 disc>d$ be=e ! blue jean coll> came into exi/5ce1 & at ! same "t tells u t black silk h&k]*iefs 7 adopt$ previ\s to ! "t ( ,nelson4 ,x is n p]haps v widely kn[n t sailors at "o "t wore a k9d ( kilt or petticoat1 & ?is no long] ago ?an ! ye> #aggi4 ,"s ?irty or =ty ye>s e>li] !re 7 9 vogue loose slops l ! petticoat bree*es ( ! reign ( ,*>les ,,ii1 & ! coll> ( ! coat1 :i* 0 op5 at ! neck1 turn$ back on to ! %\ld]s4 ,! tr\s]s1 h[ev]1 t are n[ adopt$ are tight r\nd ! body & ?ighs1 b rema9 v loose r\nd ! legs1 & are !re=e some:at curi\s4 ,! me?od ( button+ is "o :i* !y %>e ) ! g5tlem5 ( ,george ,,ii's "t1 ! old-fa%ion$ lab\r]1 &1 we believe1 ! bi%op4 ,,xxvii ,,! ,,co/ume ,,( ,,puppets ,,pun* ,,& ,,judy--,,fa%ion ,,dolls--,,dolls ,,9 ,,swaddl+ ,,clo!s--,,! ,,egyptian ,,%abbies ,by way ( a *ange let u turn f p to _! images--9 fact1 to puppets & dolls--= ^! semblances & c>icatures ( human =ms are g5]ally clo!d1 & at times may pres5t to u v curi\s survivals4 ,let u beg9 ) ,pun* & ,judy1 & 9 ?is connection we mu/ n =get ! dog ,toby1 = ! ruff :i* he we>s r\nd 8 neck is a rem9isc5ce ( ,que5 ,elizabe?'s reign4 ,pun* himself1 h[ev]1 is v mu* old] ?an 8 clo!s1 ?\gh to f9d ! explanation ( ! hump 9 front we mu/ exam9e ! clo!s ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,iii ( ,france1 :5 ! m5's busk$ d\blets came d[n l[ to a /rap-%ap$ po9t1 & _h a great padd$ pun*-l protub]ance4#cg ,= o!r peculi>ities t we see we may h to g to ! times ( ,h5ry ,,iv ( ,france1 b ! "* is v _m c5turies old]2 & ! c>eful inve/igations made by a fri5d ( ! pres5t writ]1 ,mr4 ,george ,heppel1#ch into ! hi/ory ( ,pun* h %[n :y 8 pres5t co/ume 0 adopt$ & :at 0 8 prototype4 ,z might be expect$1 ! orig9al ,pun* 0 a man--n ,pontius ,pilate1 z has sometimes be5 sugge/$ ow+ to ! connection ( ,pun* ) miracle plays1 b a "* 9 ! old ,italian f>ces1 :i* g back to ! e>ly days ( ,rome4 ,! t[n mo/ celebrat$ = su* ent]ta9m5ts 0 ,atella1 situat$ n v f> f ,naples4 ,! f>cical plays 7 full ( buffoon]y1 & ,pun* or ,pulic9ella 0 "o ( ! /ock *>act]s1 repres5t$ by a live actor1 z 7 also ! orig9als ( ! ,h>lequ91 ,pantaloon1 & ,sc>am\*1 among o!rs4 ,x appe>s t ! plays 7 n writt5 z we und]/& a play to be writt51 b z a rule ! plot ( !m 0 kn[n1 & a great deal ( ! dialogue 0 left to ! actors !mselves4 ,f ?is x w be se5 t ! art ( gagg+ c h>dly be consid]$ to be mod]n4 ,! ,italian1 ?\gh by no means great z a dramatic au?or1 01 z he is n[1 exce$+ly good z an actor4 ,x is said#ci t = g5u9e fun no dramati/ c beat ! ,neapolitan1 no actor c surpass him4 ,he writes or acts )\t ! lea/ ef=t2 x is born 9 him1 & he _c help x4 ,! v begg>-boy :o hunts "o along ! /reet is a consummate actor2 8 ge/ures are prolific1 easy1 & natural2 he is a facial arti/ )\t kn[+ x1 & he has a p[] ( elocution & expression :i* are only acquir$ by exp]i5c$ p]=m]s aft] _m ye>s ( /udy4 ,x may p]haps come z a surprise to _m1 see+ h[ long ,pun* has p]si/$1 to le>n t 9 ,italy he 0 n "o ( ! important *>act]s 9 ! orig9al plays1 b 8 *oice z ! h]o ( ! puppet-%[ dep5d$ r on ! fact t he _h n s mu* to d z "s ( ! o!rs--! h>lequ91 = in/ance4 ,!re=e 8 "* c\ld be bett] portray$ "u ! re/rict$ conditions t prevail$ 9 su* an ent]ta9m5t z ! ,pun* & ,judy %[4 ,x w be obvi\s also t only two *>act]s c be act+ at "o "t1 z ! %[man has only two h&s4 ,mr4 ,heppel c\ld only trace "o in/ance ( ,pun* figures be+ work$ by wires l o!r m>ionettes4 ,?is is a figure 9 a little book no l>g] ?an a play+-c>d1 entitl$ ,scnes de ,poli*9elle1 9 ! ,art ,libr>y at ! ,s\? ,k5s+ton ,museum4 ,! %[man 9 ! case ( ! ,fr5* ,pun* on occasion makes a virtue ( necessity1 & :5 ! h]o ( ! puppet-%[ is ab\t to be tri$ = murd]1 ! p]=mance is int]rupt$ 9 ord] t ! foll[+ apology may be made3--,! sc5e :i* we are ab\t to h ! hon\r to put be=e y requires a tol]ably l>ge numb] ( *>act]s4 ,x is1 inde$1 impossible to suppose t s important a prison] z ,guignol %\ld be tri$ )\t due c]emony & by a s+le judge1 b z ! director ( ?is !atre1 l ! g5]ality ( mank9d1 has b two h&s1 ! actors 9 ?is sc5e w mo/ ( !m rema9 q /ill4 ,?is ne$ n 9 ! lea/ int]f]e ) ! tru? ( ! repres5tation1 = ?is /illness gives ! adm9i/ration ( ju/ice an additional solemnity4 ,we may suppose t ! judges are asleep1 :i* w enable !m to decide free f passion1 & t ! (ficials ( ! c\rt are p>alys$ by ! maje/y ( ! c\rt & ! magnitude ( ! issues to be det]m9$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #adi4--,! ,oscan ,pulic9ella ( #agca1 )\t a long nose4 ,! dress is v simil> to t figur$ 9 #afcj 7aft] ,riccoboni74 ,! ,pun* & ,judy %[ w5t on 9 ,italy side by side ) ! f>ces t 7 repres5t$ by liv+ actors1 b ! idea ( puppet-%[s is v mu* m anci5t ?an ?is4 ,! clo!s ( ,pun* 7 pla91 & illu/rations made 9 #afcj are simil> to o!rs made a hundr$ ye>s lat] 7see ,figures #adi & #aej74 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aej4--,! ,calabrian ,giangurgolo ( #agca1 ) ! long nose4 ,! dress is v simil> to t figur$ 9 #afcj 7aft] ,riccoboni74 ,orig9ally1 also1 ,pun* does n seem to h _h a long nose4 ,! exagg]at$ nose is1 h[ev]1 f\nd on ! repres5tative ( ,pun* :i* fl\ri%$ 9 ,calabria1 & :i* w5t by ! "n ( ,giangurgolo 7see ,figure #aej74 ,! ,fr5* ,pun* is call$ ,guignol1 ( :i* ! d]ivation _c be directly trac$1 b ,mr4 ,heppel has made an int]e/+ sugge/ion t 9 ! "n ( ?is "* is to be f\nd t ( ,giangurgolo 9 a contract$ =m4 ,z may h be5 surmis$1 we got our ,pun* & ,judy by way ( ,france1 b z a human actor ,pun* himself came direct to ,engl&4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aea4--;,an anci5t bronze /atuette ) ! face & features ( ,pun* 7aft] ,ficorroni74 ,an anci5t /atuette :i* is figur$ by ,ficorroni 7see ,figure #aea7 is suppos$ by antiqu>ians to repres5t ,pun*1 & if ! individual :om x repres5ts did n g by t "n1 he mu/ c]ta9ly h be5 "o ( ,pun*'s ance/ors1 = ! lik5ess to our mod]n h]o is exce$+ly great4 ,ref]5ces are made by a numb] ( classical au?ors to puppet-%[s1 & ^! 7 also kn[n 9 ,*9a z long ago z a ?\s& ye>s be=e ! ,*ri/ian era4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aeb4--;,a f\rte5?-c5tury puppet-%[ 7f ! ,,ms4 ( ! ,roman d',alex&re74 ,! me?od also ( exhibit+ ! puppets is n v mod]n1 = a v int]e/+ figure ( a %[ embelli%es ! celebrat$ ,,ms4 ( ! ,roman d',alex&re 7see ,figure #aeb7 :i* is pres]v$ 9 ! ,bodleian ,libr>y at ,ox=d1 & 0 execut$ betwe5 ! ye>s #acch & #acdd4 ,! figures 7 evid5tly work$ by ! h&s z 9 ,pun* & ,judy1 & t x 0 int5d$ to amuse *ildr5 is %[n by ?ree little girls :o are repres5t$ z look+ on4 ,?\gh /icks are n /rictly a "p ( dress1 unless we consid] ! canes ( ! d&ies z be+ s1 yet _! usefulness 9 puppet-%[s is s great t we are tempt$ to digress = a mom5t to give ! comm5ts ( ,m4 ,lem]ci] de ,neuville on ! subject3-- ,! /ick6 t is ! great argum5t ( ,guignol1 z well z ( ,poli*9elle4 ,! /ick settles ev]y?+4 ,x puts an end to disputes1 x pays debts1 x s5ds away tr\blesome p1 x discipl9es wives1 x takes v5geance on m51 x is ! ',deus ex ma*9a' ( all ?is ,lilliputian _w4 ,:at a m>vell\s dramatic res\rce x is4 ,if a situation becomes difficult to manage1 settle x ) a bl[ ( ! /ick4 ,if a dn\em5t seems to hang fire1 ha/5 its progress by a ?ra%+4 ,! /ick is above all criticism2 x *eckmates x1 x de/roys x1 = x is 9 ! "r1 9 spite ( ev]ybody1 because x is ! /ronge/4 ,! /ick has no respect ( p]sons4 ,) x ,guignol beats 8 cr$itors1 8 fri5ds1 8 wife1 ! con/able1 ! judge1 ! hangman1 & ! m he /rikes ! m he makes p laugh4 ,!re is no spok5 joke t is z good z ?is4 ,& yet ! /ick is n beautiful1 nor is x new4 ,"o sees t x has done duty = a long "t1 = x is worn out & crack$4 ,we h1 9 fact1 a record ( ,italian play]s com+ to act _! f>ces 9 ?is c\ntry 9 #aegg1 b z ,pun* 9 ! capacity ( a p]son is n[ obsolete ) u1 we %all only incid5tally ref] to him z a liv+ actor1 ?\gh p]haps we might recall ! fact t ,molire introduc$ him into 8 play ,le ,malade ,imag9aire4 ,we h spok5 already ( ,pun*'s hump 9 front1 & x may be int]e/+ 9 ?is connection to give ! op9ion ( a ,fr5*man on ! subject ( ,pun*'s bodily *>act]i/ics4 ,m4 ,magn9 says t ) a suffici5t am\nt ( exagg]ation & c>icature to set aside ! suspicion ( disloyalty1 ! ,pun* figure recalls ! appe>ance ( "s ,gascon (fic] imitat+ ! walk & demean\r ( ,h5ri ,,iv 9 ! ,gu>d ,*amb] ( ,/4 ,g]ma9 or 9 ! ,l\vre4 ,! hump 9 front1 he says1 0 d]iv$ f ! protub]ance ( ! heavy cuirass4 ,?is is mu* ! same explanation z t :i* we h already giv51 ?\gh ! cuirass probably /uck out 9 front ( its we>] ev5 m ?an did ! d\blet4 ,!re is no d\bt b t ! ,fr5* l gay] dresses ?an ! ,italians1 & we h se5 t ev5 9 #afcj ! clo!s ( ,h>lequ91 ,pantaloon1 & ,sc>am\* 9 ,italy 71 l ^? ( ,pun*1 pla9 & simple2 b 9 ord] to be popul> 9 ,france ! ,pulic9ella _h to dress 9 a new /yle1 & x is kn[n t already 9 #afdi ! puppet-%[ ( :i* he is ! h]o _h set up on ! left bank ( ! ,se9e1 opposite ! ,l\vre4 ,:5 ,pun* got to ,engl& x 0 at a "t :5 gay clo!s 7 worn1 & "s relics ( ^! he has reta9$ to ! pres5t day4 ,r$ & yell[ play a consid]able "p 9 ! dress ( ! ,pun* figures us$ by ,mr4 ,w4 ,h4 ,jesson1 ! memb]s ( ^: family h = g5]ations be5 p]=m]s ( ,pun* & ,judy1 & :o is "o ( ! few t are /ill left4 ,pun* has a v high cap ( antique appe>ance1 ) turn$-up brim & a b[ ( ribbon on ! top4 ,! hump on 8 back is almo/ horn-l1 & =ms a complete circle4 ,x seems unlikely t ?is app5dage 0 develop$ f any "p ( co/ume unless x 7 p]haps ! liripipe2 b we may r imag9e t 9 ! pa/ ,pulic9ella may h be5 repres5t$ z be+ a hun*back1 & c]ta9ly ,figure #aea1 tak5 f ! /atuette m5tion$ previ\sly1 sugge/s an individual suff]+ f su* a de=mity4 ,pun* also we>s a ruff 7see ,figure #aec71 ?\gh x is n a sep>ate "p ( 8 co/ume1 z 9 ,judy's case1 :]e x is ( lace & its "* is well %[n1 z x consi/s ( m ?an "o ?ickness4 ,judy's head-dress is ! mob cap :i* 0 fa%ionable 9 ! "t ( ,george ,,iii4 7,see ,figure #aed47 ,! beadle1 ) 8 ?ree-corn]$ hat & 8 brightly trimm$ coat & cape1 has surviv$ = a c5tury or s aft] 8 clo!s fir/ became fa%ionable1 & no d\bt 9 ! puppet-%[ he w p]si/ = _m ye>s :5 e liv+ repres5tative ( 8 k9d has pass$ away4 7,see ,figure #aee47 ,( two m *>act]s we h a ^w to say1--9 ! fir/ place1 ( ! doctor1 :o is br\ght be=e u 9 clo!s ( almo/ cl]ical cut1 :i* rem9d u ( ! fact t ! memb]s ( ! m$ical pr(ession 7 once m easily recogniz$ by _! dress ?an !y are n[ 7see ,figure #aef72 9 ! second1 ( ,toby1 ^: sole co/ume consi/s ( a ruff1 t once m takes u back to ! "t ( ,good ,que5 ,bess4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aec4--,pun*1 f ! ,pun* & ,judy ,%[1 %[+ ! ruff & o!r details ( ,elizabe?an co/ume4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aed4--;,judy1 f ! ,pun* & ,judy ,%[1 ) ruff1 mob cap1 & apron4 ,?\gh ,pun* has donn$ new clo!s & alt]$ 8 habits to suit n only ! c\ntries 9 :i* he soj\rn$1 b ! times 9 :i* he has p]=m$1 yet despite ^! & o!r *anges t h gone on s9ce he set foot on ^! isl&s1 !re is "o ?+ t has always be5 8 special *>act]i/ic4 ,?is is 8 squeaky voice1 :i* he reta9$ ev5 9 ,molire's play1 & x is f ! peculi>ity ( 8 voice t he ga9$ 8 "n4 ,pulic9ella means a h5-*ick51 :i* might well be expect$ to h a squeaky voice4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aee4--,! ,beadle1 f ! ,pun* & ,judy ,%[4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aef4--,! ,doctor1 f ! ,pun* & ,judy ,%[1 ) wig & :ite tie4 ,) reg>d to ! *anges 9 ,pun*'s behavi\r we h a ^w to say4 ,orig9ally he 0 some:at ( a composite "*1 ! con/itu5t elem5ts be+ d]iv$ f sev]al ( ! p]sonages ( ! l>g] !atre4 ,at fir/1 to ! amor\s & intrigu+ ways ( ,pulic9ella !re 0 add$ ! rogu]y ( ,sc>am\*1 z well z ! da% & braggadocio ( ! ,spani% capta9 :o 0 a memb] ( ! com$y company1 ak9 to ! ,miles ,gloriosus ( ,plautus & ! ,bobadil ( ,b5 ,jonson4 ,z "t w5t on !re 0 less love-mak+ & trick]y & m knock+ ab\t1 b ,mr4 ,heppel w n all[ t ! ,fr5* writ]s are "r 9 ascrib+ ! :ole ( ?is to ,engli% influ5ce4 ,= ! fact t ! puppets are n alive gives an opportunity = deal+ bl[s ) a reality t c\ld n be tol]at$ if ! actors 7 liv+1 & :5 we rememb] ! way 9 :i* dog ,toby seizes ,pun* by ! nose1 we _c help feel+ t ! effect c\ld h>dly be s reali/ically produc$ on ! actual /age4 ,9 ,france1 ,pun* is a ba*elor1 or if he is m>ri$ he is n v mu* m>ri$1 :ile 9 ,engl& ,pun* always runs 9 d\ble h>ness4 ,ano!r alt]ation has tak5 place4 ,polly1 :o 0 "o ( ! *>act]s t h disappe>$1 has dep>t$ = ! reasons put into ! %[man's m\? by ,mr4 ,h5ry ,mayhew 9 #ahfa4 ,miss ,polly 0 left out1 because x wasn't exactly moral4 ,op9ions has *ang$4 ,we a9't bett]1 ,i fancy4 ,su* ?+s goes on1 b p don't l to let x be se5 n[2 t's ! diff]5ce4 ,judy's dress1 y see1 is f> diff]5t1 bless y1 ?an ,miss ,polly's4 ,judy's1 y see1 is b$-furniture /uff1 & ,polly's is all silk & sat94 ,yes1 t's ! way ( ! _w2 ! wife comes (f second be/4 ,z 9 old times1 !re 0 mu* buffoon]y introduc$ ev5 into religi\s plays1 & ! *>act]s :i* h be5 sep>at$ f ! o!r p]=m]s to take "p 9 ! special h>lequ9ade ( ! mod]n pantomime us$1 toge!r ) ,pun*1 to appe> side by side ) ^? :o took ! "p ( religi\s p]sonages4 ,to un$ucat$ p !re seem$ no?+ pr(ane ab\t ?is2 b z "t w5t on m5 & wom5 came to look at matt]s 9 a diff]5t light4 ,= reasons some:at simil>1 ! devil & ! gho/ are n[ left out1 & 9 ! p]=mances t are giv5 9 draw+-rooms ev5 ! c(f91 9 "s cases4 ,! connection1 h[ev]1 ( ,pun* ) religi\s plays probably acc\nts = ! "n by :i* 8 wife n[ goes4 ,^? :o mi/ak5ly suppos$ t ! ^w ,pun* 0 d]iv$ f ,pontius ,pilate look$ ^u ,judy z repres5t+ ,judas ,isc>iot4 ,we h already po9t$ out ! orig9 ( ! =m] appellation1 :i* ante-dates ! ,*ri/ian era1 :ile a difficulty is met ) 9 ! fact t ! wife ( ,pun* = _m ye>s 0 kn[n z ,joan4 ,mr4 ,heppel says t ( ! miracle plays "s ( ! mo/ popul> 7 tak5 f ! ,apocrypha1 & a v fav\rite subject 0 ! tale ( ,judi? & ,hol(]nes4 ,if we _c f9d an in/ance record$ ( ,pun* furni%+ ! amusem5t 9 ?is /ory1 we c1 at any rate1 f9d an adv]tisem5t ( a play 9 :i* ,h>lequ9 & ,judi? 7 toge!r1 & ! comic bus9ess 0 sometimes entru/$ to ,pun* & sometimes to ,h>lequ94 ,h5ce ,pun* & ,judy may n improbably h come f ,pun* & ,judi?1 :ile ,toby naturally sugge/s ! dog 9 ! book ( ,tobit4 ,) reg>d to ,toby1 x may be said t he is repres5t$ 9 ,france by a cat1 & t until ! n9ete5? c5tury he 0 only a /uff$ figure4 ,9 ,*9a1 :]e ,pun* beats 8 wife to ! music ( ! cl>ionette in/ead ( ,p&an pipes held 9 a muffl]1 ,toby is replac$ by a wood5 dragon ) jaws t snap1 & ?is figure is also n[ introduc$ 9 ,engl&4 ,hector ! horse has q disappe>$4 ,we might m5tion "h t 9 ! ,engli% v]sion a cl[n is br\ght 9 ) v consid]able effect4 ,!re is ano!r connection ( dolls ) co/ume r ?an ( co/ume ) dolls :i* we may m5tion at ?is po9t4 ,9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 :5 !re 7 no fa%ion plates1 & writt5 descriptions w\ld h>dly d _! duty effectively1 model co/umes 7 put ^u dolls & s5t f c\ntry to c\ntry4 ,x is1 moreov]1 a curi\s & int]e/+ fact t x 0 pr9cipally f ,p>is t ^! fa%ions 7 s5t out4 ,examples ( national co/umes sometimes survive on ! bodies ( dolls4 ,! figure ( ,/4 ,ni*olas1 9 ,belgium1 %[s an old dress1 & ! co/ume dolls ( ,holl&1 ,france1 & ,switz]l& are excell5t records ( native dress n[ seldom se5 9 ev]yday life4 ,mr4 ,edw>d ,lovett b\ght a little doll 9 ,luc]ne :i* is 9 a cradle1 & %[s excell5tly well ! swaddl+ clo!s t 7 =m]ly 9 use4 ,anci5t ,greek & ,roman dolls1 tak5 f *ildr5's graves1 7 simil>ly dress$1 & a mod]n ,russian doll1 :i* is also 9 possession ( ,mr4 ,lovett1 is %[n ) ! swa?+ b& 9 situ4 ,! only dolls t are to be f\nd 9 ,malta repres5t anci5t sa9ts1 & x is said t !y are dress$ z su*4 ,! long g>m5ts ( ,noah & 8 sons 9 ! toy ,noah's ,ark are wor?y ( m5tion & are an int]e/+ survival4 ,! wrapp+s t 7 plac$ r\nd mummies 9 anci5t ,egypt are %[n on figures :i* 7 f\nd 9 ! tombs1 & :i* are (t5 se5 z curiosities 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,!y 7 c>v$ out ( wood or modell$ out ( clay1 :ile "s ( !m 7 made out ( ! well-kn[n glaz$ faence4 ,!y 7 put into ! tombs 9 ord] t !y might d ! "w ( ! deceas$ 9 8 aft] life1 & _! orig9 is exce$+ly int]e/+4 ,_m b>b>\s nations h 9 ! pa/ sacrific$ ! s]vants ( a *ief at 8 fun]al1 & ! ,egyptians1 :o 7 humane p1 cont5t$ !mselves ) a make-believe1 & replac$ ! actual p]sons ) ! figures t we call u%abti1 or1 9 mod]n p>lance1 %abbies4 ,,xxviii ,,! ,,cl[n ,,& ,,pa9t+ ,,! ,,body ,,! ,,cl[n',s ,,dress--,,savage ,,pa9t+ ,,& ,,survivals ,,( ,,x--,,tattoo+--,,pat*es ,,& ,,false ,,complexions--,,masks ,no co/ume is p]haps m *>act]i/ic or bett] kn[n ?an t ( ! cl[n2 & x is ( special int]e/1 = :ile ! hat 0 fa%ionable at ! beg9n+ ( ! fifte5? c5tury1 ! dress1 g5]ally speak+1 is a c>icature ( t :i* 0 9 vogue 9 ! "t ( ,que5 ,elizabe?4 ,! same rem>ks apply to ! me?od ( hair-dress+1 & we %all see1 :5 deal+ ) ! o!r *>act]s t appe> 9 ! h>lequ9ade1 t ! pantaloon 9 8 dress illu/rates t ( ! same "t 9 our hi/ory4 ,unlike ! o!r h]oes ( ! pantomime1 ! cl[n is ess5tially ,engli%1 & he is to be f\nd also 9 ! circus ( to-day1 at all times ( ! ye>1 z well z on ! /age at ,*ri/mas4 ,z to ! cl[n's clo!s1 fir/ ( all !re is ! ruff1 :i* is1 h[ev]1 n /iff5$ out4 ,he has trunk hose or wide bree*es :i* d n rea* to 8 knee1 8 /ock+s are well ornam5t$ ) clocks2 & la/ly1 !re is ! pa9t on 8 face1 :i* br+s u to a cu/om t seems ne>ly z old z man himself4 7,see ,figure #aeg & ,plate ,x1 ,figure ,a47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aeg4--;,a cl[n1 %[+ a survival ( an ,elizabe?an co/ume4 ,among ! relics ( ! anci5t cave m5 ( ,europe are f\nd holl[$ /ones1 & ^! 7 us$ z mort>s 9 :i* o*re & o!r col\rs 7 gr\nd = pa9t+ ! body4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 ,a4 ,,! ,,head ,,( ,a ,,cl[n1 ,,%[+ ,,! ,,pa9t$ ,,face1 ,,! ,,ruff ,,& ,,! ,,elizabe?an ,,me?od ,,( ,,do+ ,,! ,,hair4 ,,fig4 ,b4 ,,! ,,face ,,( ,a ,,japanese ,,actor4 7,aft] ,moseley1 by ! c\rtesy ( ,mr4 ,john ,murray47 ,,fig4 ,c4 ,,! ,,pa9t$ ,,face ,,( ,a ,,pap] ,,figure ,,:i* ,,is ,,burn$ ,,at ,,*9ese ,,fun]als4 7,aft] ,moseley1 by ! c\rtesy ( ,mr4 ,john ,murray47 ,,fig4 ,d4 ,,! ,,tattoo$ ,,head ,,( ,a ,,maori ,,*ief4 7,by ! c\rtesy ( ,g5]al ,robley47 ,,plate ,x4 ,! ,egyptians /ill foll[ ! practice ( black5+ ! edge ( ! eyelid1 bo? bel[ & above ! eye1 ) a black p[d] call$ kohl4 ,! mat]ial is prep>$ ei!r f burn+ an aromatic res9 or ! %ells ( almonds4 ,! cu/om prevail$ among bo? sexes 9 ,egypt f> back 9 its hi/ory1 & long be=e ! hi/oric p]iod1 pa9t+ ! eyes 0 already practis$ by ! p :om ,pr(essor ,petrie call$ ! ,new ,race 7until he det]m9$ t !y prec$$ ! dyna/ic ,egyptians74 ,x may be well to po9t out t ^! prehi/oric p liv$ ab\t #fjjj ye>s ,b4,c43 !y _h little or no metal1 ?\gh !y made mo/ beautiful fl9t knives & /one vases4 ,!y buri$ _! dead ly+ on "o side ) ! knees t[>ds ! *91 in/ead ( mak+ mummies4 ,among ! cont5ts ( _! tombs h be5 f\nd curi\s slate palettes ( all %apes & sizes1 simil> to "s :i* _h previ\sly be5 kn[n = _m ye>s1 b ! orig9 ( :i* 0 undet]m9$4 ,x has be5 %[n t ^! palettes 7 us$ = gr9d+ up mala*ite to =m a gre5 col\r ) :i* to pa9t ! eye4 ,! idea 01 x is suppos$1 to mitigate ! gl>e ( ! sun1 & is simil> to t :i* leads ,anglo-,indians to h ! "u sides ( ! brims ( _! hats col\r$ gre54 ,ano!r k9d ( tempor>y ornam5tation is produc$ 9 ,egypt to-day by /a9+ ! feet & h&s ) ! juice ( ! leaves ( h5na4 ,! result is t ! "p to :i* x is appli$ becomes a yell[i% r$ or deep orange col\r4 ,! mo/ common practice is to dye ! tips ( ! f+]s & toes s f> z ! fir/ jo9t1 ! :ole ( ! inside ( ! h& & ! sole ( ! foot1 & !re are o!r & m fanciful modes ( apply+ ! h5na1 :i* is said to h an agreeable effect ^u ! sk91 p>ticul>ly 9 ! way ( prev5t+ x f becom+ too t5d]4 ,! dye+ has to be r5ew$ e =tnight or ?ree weeks1 & ! /a9 is bright] & m p]man5t on ! nails ?an on ! f+]s4 ,among _m native races 9 a l[ /age ( civilization !re are few :o d n decorate _! body by pa9t+ x 9 "s way4 ,we h already m5tion$ t pa9t+ takes away ! appe>ance ( nak$ness1 & t _m nations w\ld be z mu* a%am$ to be se5 )\t _! pa9t1 z ,europeans w\ld be to walk ab\t )\t _! clo!s4 ,on special occasions1 h[ev]1 p>ticul>ly /rik+ col\rs are put on--= in/ance1 by ! ,au/ralians :5 ab\t to dance a corroboree1 & ,pr(essor ,moseley#dj has po9t$ out t !y h brea/ /ripes & leg /ripes su* z ^? :i* are se5 on ,european uni=ms4 ,at fir/ sight ^!1 z ,pr(essor ,moseley1 inde$1 po9ts out1 w\ld appe> to h q a diff]5t orig91 b x w be rememb]$ t :5 speak+ ( ! ,huss> uni=m & ! ,dut* skeleton dress 7see pages #ade-f7 x 0 sugge/$ t ! ornam5tation might be int5d$ to foll[ ! l9es ( ! *ief bones ( ! body1 & x is possible t ! same idea may h und]la9 ! pa9t+ c>ri$ out by savages4 ,9 ?is case :at 9 "o in/ance 0 effect$ by pa9t 0 9 ! o!r done by means ( trimm+s4 ,pa9t plays a great "p 9 savage w>f>e1 & no d\bt ! int5tion v (t5 0 to t]rify ! adv]s>y4 ,x is app>5tly ?is idea :i* actuat$ ! old inhabitants ( ?is c\ntry1 :o1 z ,cs> says1 /a9$ !mselves ) woad 9 ord] to be ( horrid] aspect 9 battle2 b ,dr4 ,tylor has po9t$ out ! error into :i* _m hi/orians h fall5 ?r\gh consid]+ z savages races :o1 :ile hav+ atta9$ to consid]able civilization1 /ill kept up ! practice ( col\r+ _! bodies 9 "t ( w>4 ,to ! in/ances :i* we h m5tion$ ( mod]n races /a9+ !mselves1 we may add t ( ! ,h9du wom5 9 ,india1 :o col\r _! tee? black & pa9t _! feet sc>let4 ,japanese wom5 black5 _! tee? ^u m>riage4 ,9 c]ta9 ,japanese plays ! actors h bright /reaks ( r$ pa9t made on _! faces1 usually on ea* side ( ! eyes 7see ,plate ,x1 ,figure ,b74 ,pr(essor ,moseley#da records t ! same =m ( pa9t+ is to be se5 9 ! case ( ,japanese *ildr5 on fe/ive occasions1 = aft] !y h be5 elaborately dress$ by _! p>5ts !y are fur!r adorn$ ) "o or two transv]se & n>r[ /reaks ( bright r$ pa9t1 lead+ outw>ds f ! out] corn]s ( _! eyes1 or plac$ ne> to t position4 ,! /yle is ! same z t :i* survives 9 ! case ( adults on ! /age4 ,pr(essor ,moseley br+s =w>d a fur!r case %[+ t su* a =m ( pa9t+ possibly exi/$ 9 anci5t times 9 ,*9a4 ,:5 a man ( di/9ction di$ 9 ,*9a 9 =m] times1 a c]ta9 numb] ( s]vants 7 sacrific$ at 8 burial4 ,n[1 figures made ( pa/ebo>d & pap]1 ab\t ?ree feet or s high1 are burnt in/ead at ! fun]al s]vice 9 small furnaces provid$ = ! purpose 9 ! temples1 toge!r ) c>tloads ( simil> pa/ebo>d gifts :i* are s5t by ! survivors = ! use ( ! dead 9 ! next _w4 ,e>!nw>e figures 7 simil>ly buri$ ) great m5 9 old times 9 ,japan1 & we may comp>e ) ^! cu/oms t ( ! ,egyptians :o buri$ models ( s]vants1 z m5tion$ on page #bfh1 9 ! graves ( _! dead4 ,! pa/ebo>d heads ( ^! fun]al s]vants & reta9]s are pa9t$ ) /reaks1 "s ( :i* are put on 9 almo/ exactly ! same /yle1 at ! angles ( ! eyes1 z ^? ( mod]n ,japanese actors4 ,x seems a fair conjecture t ! /reaks on ^! heads are a direct survival ( an actual =m] savage =m ( pa9t+ :i* 0 once 9 vogue 9 ,*9a1 & probably us$ to make fight+ m5 hide\s4 ,x is well kn[n t primitive cu/oms survive 9 connection ) fun]als all ov] ! _w ) extreme t5acity4 ,! num]\s int]e/+ survivals exi/+ 9 ! case ( ,engli% fun]als are famili>4 ,we give a figure tak5 f ! head ( a ,*9ese s]vant1 :i* ,pr(essor ,moseley b\ght at a manufactory ( fun]al prop]ties 9 ,hong ,kong4 7,see ,plate ,x1 ,figure ,c47 ,) reg>d to ! ord9>y use ( pa9t by wom5 9 ,*9a & ,japan1 ,pr(essor ,moseley po9ts out t x is entirely diff]5t 9 pr9ciple f t 9 vogue 9 ,europe4 ,he says3 ,! use ( pa9t z an ornam5t 9 ,*9a & ,japan seems to me to be ( consid]able int]e/4 ,9 bo? c\ntries ! wom5 regul>ly pa9t _! faces :5 9 full dress1 ( :i* ! pa9t is a necess>y "p4 ,! pa9t is n put on ) any idea ( simulat+ a beauty ( complexion1 :i* might be pres5t naturally1 or :i* has be5 lo/ by age4 ,! pa9t$ face is utt]ly unlike ! appe>ance ( any natural beauty4 ,an ev5 lay] ( :ite is put on ov] ! :ole face & neck1 ) ! exception1 9 ,japan1 ( two or ?ree angul> po9ts ( natural br[n sk91 :i* are left b>e at ! back ( ! neck z a contra/4 ,aft] ! face is :it5$1 a dab ( r$ is rubb$ 9 on ! *eeks1 bel[ ea* eye4 ,! lips are !n col\r$ p9k ) mag5ta1 & 9 ,japan ?is col\r is put on s ?ickly t x ceases to appe> r$1 b takes on ! iridesc5t metallic gre5 t9t ( ! cry/alliz$ anil9e col\r4 ,9 mod]n ,japanese picture books1 ! lips ( girls may sometimes be se5 to be repres5t$ ?us gre54 ,i suppose ! idea is t su* application ( pa9t %[s a m]itori\s disreg>d = exp5se4 ,x is curi\s t ! use ( anil9e col\r %\ld h s rapidly spread 9 ,*9a & ,japan4 ,9 ,*9a1 at lea/1 su* 0 n to be expect$2 b x seems to h supplant$ ! old r\ge1 & x is sold spread on fold+ c>ds1 ) ,*9ese *>act]s on !m1 at ,canton & 9 ,japan4 ,?is =m ( pa9t+ ! face seems to be exactly ( ! same nature z savage pa9t+4 ,! lik5ess ( ?is pa9t+ to t ( our cl[ns is ( c\rse q obvi\s4 ,sometimes ! pa9t+ ( ! body has a practical advantage4 ,! ,&aman ,isl&]s pla/] !mselves ) a mixture ( l>d & col\r$ e>?1 :i* protects _! sk9 f ! heat & mosquitoes2 b1 z ,dr4 ,tylor po9ts out1 !y g (f into love ( display :5 !y proce$ to draw l9es on ! pa9t ) _! f+]s1 or :5 a d&y w col\r "o side ( 8 face r$ & ! o!r olive-gre51 & make an ornam5tal bord]-l9e :]e ! two col\rs meet d[n 8 *e/ & abdom54 ,fa%ions 9 pa9t 7 q z slavi%ly foll[$ z any o!r1 &1 z we see1 h di$ h>d4 ,x is n a v f> cry f pa9t+ to tattoo+4 ,( savages1 ,?ophile ,gauti] has said t1 hav+ no clo!s to embroid]1 !y embroid] !mselves4 ,sc> tattoo+ is connect$ ) v>i\s rites su* z are foll[$ :5 a brave arrives at manhood1 & c]ta9ly tattoo+ s]ves to indicate ! family or tribe to :i* ! ornam5t$ p]son belongs4 ,!re is no d\bt1 h[ev]1 t ! int5tion ( mu* tattoo+ is to increase individual beauty4 ,excell5t examples ( ?is are to be f\nd 9 ! case ( ! ,maoris1 ^: faces 7 mo/ elaborately cov]$ ) designs4 ,we are k9dly p]mitt$ to reproduce "s ( ! draw+s :i* ,g5]al ,robley has made f specim5s 9 8 magnific5t collection 7see ,plate ,x1 ,figure ,d74 ,! practice n[1 h[ev]1 is dy+ out4 ,( ! ,=mosans x is said t _! sk9s are cov]$ ) fl[] patt]ns until !y look l damask4 ,tattoo+ 0 practis$ by ! old inhabitants ( ?is c\ntry1 by ! ,jews & ! e>lie/ ,egyptians3 x is /ill c>ri$ on 9 mod]n ,egypt1 *iefly on ! *91 on ! back ( ! h&s1 ! arms & feet1 ! middle ( ! bosom1 & ! =ehead4 ,x survives pr9cipally 9 ! case ( ! wom5 ( ! l[] classes & 9 ! c\ntry4 ,among ,european sailors & among ! l[] classes1 & ev5 occasionally ^? up 9 high social scale1 we f9d tattoo+ c>ri$ on1 ?\gh ! orig9al idea ( ornam5tation is lo/ :5 ! decoration is cov]$ by clo?+4 ,we h se5 occasionally at %[s--su* z t organiz$ by ,b>num--:ite p :o h be5 tattoo$ to a v great ext5t1 & ev5 9 ! case ( ,europeans ! patt]ns t5d to take (f ! b>e look ev5 ( ! :ite sk94 ,no d\bt ! desire to make p]man5t su* ornam5tation z t obta9$ by pa9t+1 l$ to ! introduction ( tattoo+1 & j z "s m>ks sugge/ t !y are copi$ f amulets1 s "s amulets %[ traces ( hav+ be5 d]iv$ f tattoo patt]ns4 ,mr4 ,lovett has po9t$ out to u t possibly ! floral designs work$ on ! backs ( ! bodices ( ! wom5 ( ,m>k51 9 ,holl&1 may h orig9at$ f tattoo+1 b no d\bt c>eful rese>* w\ld %[ "s o!r & und\bt$ in/ances4 ,! pa9t+ ( ! face1 :i* is int5d$ to height5 its beauty & hide ! ravages ( "t1 is q ano!r matt]4 ,x survives to ! pres5t day1 b luckily x is mu* less common 9 ?is c\ntry ?an x 0 a few ye>s ago4 ,x does n1 h[ev]1 seem to h be5 at all 9 vogue 9 ,engl& until ! ,middle ,ages1 ?\gh cosmetics & false complexions 7 made use ( by ladies 9 ,roman times4 ,fairholt#db quotes f an old ,fr5* poem ( ! ?irte5? c5tury :i* describes ! w>es ( a m]c] :o decl>es1 ,i h cotton ) :i* !y r\ge1 & :it5+ ) :i* !y :it5 !mselves4 ,! cotton took ! place ( ! h>e's foot t is n[ us$ 9 mak+ up1 to rub col\r on ! *eeks4 ,at ?is po9t we might consid] pat*es1 ! use ( :i* made x possible to ornam5t ! sk9 ) patt]ns t c\ld be remov$ at w4 ,^! pat*es came into fa%ion 9 ,*>les ,i's reign1 b 7 bann$ by ! ,puritans4 ,z soon1 h[ev]1 z ,*>les ,,ii came into 8 own aga91 !y made _! appe>ance once m1 & took v>i\s fanta/ic %apes3 owls1 r+s1 cresc5ts1 & cr[ns2 a coa* & horses 0 p>ticul>ly fa%ionable1 & 9 ! "t ( ,que5 ,anne x 0 possible to tell ! political views ( fa%ionable ladies by _! faces & _! fans4 ,p>ty feel+ ran v high at ?is "t1 & ^? :o 7 neutral wore pat*es on bo? *eeks1 a ,:ig lady on ! "r side only1 :ile a ,high ,*ur* ,tory dame only adorn$ ! left1 & %e wore susp5d$ f h] wri/ a fan on :i* 0 depict$ a sc5e f ! trial ( ,dr4 ,sa*ev]ell at ,we/m9/] ,hall4 ,r$ & :ite pa9t 0 at ! same "t univ]sally employ$ by wom5 ( fa%ion1 :o1 z ,miss ,hel5 ,gordon#dc says1 _h p]=ce to keep _! lov]s at a respectful di/ance1 le/ a kiss snat*$ by a =w>d "o might transf] ! complexion ( ! mi/ress to ! admir]4 ,! untimely decease ( m ?an "o fam\s beauty 0 attribut$ to ! pa9t ) :i* %e besme>$ h] c\nt5ance1 a notable in/ance be+ ! dea? ( ,lady ,cov5try1 ^: husb& _h be5 wont to *ase h] r\nd ! d9n]-table 9 8 det]m9$ ef=ts to remove ! delet]i\s comp\nd f h] face ) 8 s]viette4 ,accord+ to ,walpole1 ,lady ,m>y ,wortley ,montagu us$ ! *eape/ :ite pa9t obta9able1 & left x s long on h] sk9 t x _h lit]ally to be scrap$ (f4 ,x may be inf]r$ t ^! f9e ladies r>ely wa%$2 b ! age 0 c>eless 9 t respect1 p]sonal cleanl9ess at a disc\nt1 & ! ess5ce pot consequ5tly 9 great dem&4 ,we spoke j n[ ( fans1 :i* c1 p]haps1 be consid]$ an article ( dress z !y are v (t5 fa/5$ to ! p]son4 ,!re seems no d\bt b t at fir/ fans did n close1 & 7 made ( fea!rs l ^? /ill 9 use 9 ! ,ea/ f :5ce !y are d]iv$4 ,probably 9 ! beg9n+1 leaves 7 us$ z fans1 & palm-leaf fans are /ill to be se54 ,fans 7 9 g5]al use 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 & ! fold+ "o appe>$ 9 ! next4 ,sometimes1 z at ! end ( ! eighte5? c5tury1 l>ge gre5 fans1 call$ sun%ades1 7 us$ out ( doors 9 ! same way z a mod]n p>asol n[ is4 ,!re is ano!r use ( ! fan /ill to be not$ 9 ,*9a1 namely1 = bl[+ up a fire1 & f ?is we no d\bt get ! expression ( fann+ ! flame4 ,pa9t+ app>5tly 0 n only practis$ by wom51 = male c\rti]s at ! end ( ! sixte5? c5tury occasionally col\r$ _! faces4 ,if we are to believe "s ( ! writ]s 9 ! newspap]s ( to-day1 m5 ( leisure are n a :it bett] nor less fooli% n[4 ,( masks z an ord9>y ev]yday addition to co/ume we h no survivals1 except 9 connection ) "s balls & an occasional burgl>y2 b masks su* z we see on ! #e? ( ,novemb] w rem9d u1 l ! face ( ! cl[n1 ( primitive face-pa9t+1 & also ( ! _m curi\s head-dresses & masks :i* savages we> at c]ta9 c]emonies & dances4 ,x is easy to produce grotesque effects by means ( masks1 & ! discom=t t w\ld arise f ! pa9t is !reby avoid$4 ,! practice ( we>+ masks1 & inde$ dom9oes1 by private individuals came f ,v5ice4 ,9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies masks made ( black sat9 & velvet (t5 =m$ "p ( ! toilet ( society ladies4 ,at "o p]iod ! we>+ ( !m 0 re/rict$ to ! times ( c>nivals2 at ano!r1 ! nobility alone 7 all[$ to use !m1 & n[ we only see masks at fancy-dress balls4 ,( ! unwritt5 laws t rule ! we>+ ( ! mask1 ,mrs4 ,aria says#dd3 ,:e!r worn privately or 9 public1 its disguise has at all times & 9 all c\ntries be5 respect$ z inviolably sacr$4 ,to ! mask$ ! greate/ extravagance ( language & ge/ure is p]mitt$4 ,he is all[$ to indulge 9 acrid p]sonalities & proclaim sca?+ tru?s1 :i*1 ev5 if address$ to ! mon>* himself1 g unrebuk$4 ,to /rike a mask is a s]i\s (f5ce1 :ile 9 no class ( society1 h[ev] degrad$1 w\ld any "o d>e to unmask a woman4 ,yet ano!r pr]ogative entitles ! mask$ to invite any woman pres5t1 :e!r mask$ or n1 to dance ) him1 etiquette decree+ t ! que5 ( ! l& may n claim exemption f ?is rule4 ,de> to romance is ! mask$ highwayman1 :o fl\ri%$ until ! adv5t ( railways robb$ him ( 8 occupation2 & a grim figure is ev] ! mask$ headsman4 ,,xxix ,,/age ,,co/umes ,,! ,,h>lequ91 ,,pantaloon1 ,,columb9e1 ,,& ,,acrobat ,:ile ,pun* has left ! /age & is n[ a puppet1 "s ( 8 coadjutors are ) u1 = ! h>lequ9ade is /ill introduc$ into _m pantomimes at ,*ri/mas1 & special plays h be5 writt5 9 :i* ^! *>act]s appe>4 ,! h>lequ91 :o gives 8 "n to :at is n[ an int]lude1 0 "s ?\s& or two ye>s back "o ( ! important p]sonages 9 ! old ,italian com$y :i* gave u ,pun*1 & :i* we h already m5tion$ 9 a previ\s *apt]4 ,h>lequ9 0 v]satile & _m-sid$1 & he /ill keeps up 8 slap-da% "*4 ,x is true t h>lequ9 does n n[ speak1 any m ?an does ! columb9e1 & we may trace ! evolution ( ! ,italian ,mimi1 or buffoons1 into ! ,pantomimi1 :o 7 tragic actors4 ,!y1 by means ( c]ta9 well-und]/ood signs & ge/ures1 7 able to play trag$ies 9 ! op5 air "u conditions :i* w\ld h prev5t$ _! voices f be+ he>d4 ,9 "s !atres also ! actors 7 n all[$ by ! au?orities to speak4 ,orig9ally ! h>lequ9 0 a mime4 ,he _h a %av5 head1 a sooty face--= ! mimi black5$ _! faces l our mod]n nigg]s--he _h flat1 un%od feet & a pat*$ coat ( _m col\rs :i* he d]iv$ f ! anci5t peasants ( ,italy4 ,"s h se5 9 ! w& ( ! h>lequ9 a desc5dant ( ! rod ( ,m]cury1 & h s\ght = a prototype ( ! mod]n pantomime 9 pagan my/]ies4 ,9 ,engl&1 h[ev]1 we h turn$ ! h>lequ9 into a magician1 & 8 w& is p]haps ! gilt wood5 sword :i* belong$ to ! cl[n or fool all ! _w ov]4 ,n[ also we h ! "* 9 :at ,mr4 ,cal?rop t]ms 8 tight-fitt+ liz>d-sk9 ( fla%+ gold5 col\rs1 = ! pat*es on 8 rags h n[ giv5 place to a symmetrical patt]n 7see ,figure #aeh74 ,!re h be5 _m celebrat$ h>lequ9s :o h devot$ _! lives to ! developm5t ( ?is "*1 & !re is an int]e/+ case :i* ,disraeli#de gives 9 8 ,curiosities ( ,lit]ature1 9 :i*1 z "p ( a quit-r5t or feudal t5ure--:5ev] ! ,abbot ( ,figac ent]$ ?is t[n--! ,"l ( ,montbron1 dress$ 9 a h>lequ9's coat1 ) "o ( 8 legs b>e1 has to lead ! prelate's horse by its bridle to ! abbey4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aeh4--,! dress ( a mod]n h>lequ94 ,9 ! cl[n & ! pantaloon we /ill h ! dress ( ,elizabe?an times 7see ,figures #aeg & #aei74 ,! pa9t on ! =m]1 z we h se51 w c>ry u back to times ( remote antiquity4 ,8 hat is ( a %ape well kn[n 9 e>ly ,engli% hi/ory1 & he himself is ,engli% all ?r\gh4 ,! pantaloon1 aga91 is ,italian4 ,bo? he & 8 ,v5etian bree*es get _! names f ,/4 ,pantaleone1 "o ( ! patron sa9ts ( ,v5ice4 ,pantaleone 0 by no means an uncommon patronymic 9 t place4 ,9 ord] to reconcile ! /atem5ts t ! dress ( ! pantaloon is ,elizabe?an & 8 ne!r g>m5ts are ,v5etian1 :i* might appe> to be mutually contradictory1 x mu/ be po9t$ out t ! ,v5etian bree*es _h be5 introduc$ 9 ! days ( e>li] ,tudors1 & 7 /ill 9 vogue :5 ,elizabe? 0 on ! ?rone4 ,! pantaloon's r$ & gre5 col\rs & 8 r$ heels are also1 z we h indicat$1 ,elizabe?an4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aei4--;,a pantaloon1 %[+ an ,elizabe?an co/ume ( :i* ,v5etian bree*es =m "p4 ,! columb9e1 :o1 l ! h>lequ91 does n speak1 & s keeps up ! pantomime "*1 we>s ! ballet dress ( e>ly ,victorian times4 ,orig9ally %e 0 a female h>lequ91 or h>lequ9ne1 & h] dress ( spangles is /ill sometimes us$ 9 fancy-dress dances4 ,( ! o!r *>act]s1 :o once assi/$ ^? t we h describ$1 we h none left4 ,sc>am\* p]si/$ = "s "t1 & 01 l ! h>lequ9 & columb9e1 a pantomimi/4 ,he has gone ev5 f ,pun* & ,judy1 ?\gh ! doctor /ill rema9s4 ,?\gh n /rictly a !atrical p]=m]1 b se5 9 ! circus1 ! music-hall1 & /ill also z a w&]+ m\ntebank1 we h ! acrobat4 ,8 dress is simple & em95tly suitable = ! "w :i* he has to d2 x consi/s ( a ve/1 ( v %ort trunk hose or bree*es1 & long ,flor5t9e hose1 or1 z we n[ call !m1 tights4 ,?\gh su* a co/ume 0 worn 9 ! reigns ( ! e>ly ,tudors1 9 detail ! bree*es are v mu* l ^? :i* 7 worn by ,"l ,d>nley1 ! husb& ( ,m>y ,que5 ( ,scots4 ,d\btless also 9 ! tights :i* are s famili> on ! /age we h a survival simil> to t se5 9 ! acrobat1 ! cl[n1 & ! knights ( ! old] ord]s4 ,,xxx ,,nightdress ,,b&s ,,on ,,nightg[ns--,,nightcaps--,,night ,,attire ,,worn ,,9 ,,! ,,/reet ,go+ to b$ c h>dly be call$ a c]emony2 b ! dress 9 :i* ! bulk ( humanity n[ sleeps c claim to be a special "o4 ,!re are1 ( c\rse1 _m p1 :o are n m]e casual tramps1 :o sleep 9 _! ev]yday clo!s4 ,drov]s :o h to g to out-(-!-way places ) cattle1 :]e !y c nev] be sure ( gett+ a lodg+1 w sleep possibly aft] m]ely remov+ _! out] coat1 & x /&s to reason t m5 engag$ 9 ?is bus9ess c h>dly be bo!r$ to c>ry luggage ) !m4 ,any survivals t we may h to deal ) 9 ! case ( our airie/ dresses w n take u v f> back into hi/ory1 because our ance/ors1 f all acc\nts1 w5t to an extreme :i* is ! opposite to t :i* we h j be5 m5tion+1 & in/ead ( keep+ on all _! clo!s at night1 !y took !m all (f & put on no o!rs4 ,mr4 ,cal?rop#df graphically describes a sc5e :i* he supposes to be tak+ place 9 ! reign ( ,william ,rufus4 ,a lady is di/urb$ :ile gett+ ready = b$ by a cry ( sanctu>y1 & wat*es f h] w9d[ until ! fugitive is let into ! *ur* by ! monks4 ,9 conclud+ 8 /ory1 ,mr4 ,cal?rop says1 ,! night is cold4 ,! lady pulls a curta9 across ! w9d[1 & !n1 /ripp+ h]self ( h] *emise1 %e gets into b$4 ,a man's night%irt is sev]e 9 cut l t :i* he we>s 9 ! day1 & ! sides are slit up 9 bo? g>m5ts z !y are 9 ! dalmatic & ! tunics worn by ! ,anglo-,saxons1 :i* 7 l a day %irt1 long] beh9d ?an 9 front4 ,a survival ( ! latt] z an out] g>m5t is to be se5 9 ! %ort smocks worn by lab\r]s :o dig dra9s & d simil> "w4 ,! lady's nightg[n may be elegantly ornam5t$ ) lace 9 ! same way z are ! l95 g>m5ts :i* %e we>s 9 ! daytime2 b v (t5 we f9d a l>ge coll> edg$ ) lace1 :i* recalls ! fall+ b& :i* we h _h s (t5 to m5tion4 7,see ,figure #afj47 ,to a great ext5t sleep+ suits ( a coat & tr\s]s1 :i* are kn[n by ! "n ( pyjamas1 h tak5 ! place ( ! man's night%irt4 ,^! h ! m]it ( mak+ a man look m pres5table if call$ up on an em]g5cy4 ,we %all see1 if we contra/ male & female fa%ions1 t x has always be5 cu/om>y = ! co/ume ( wom5 to foll[ t ( m51 ?\gh mo/ ladies draw ! l9e at adopt+ tr\s]s4 ,we h he>d1 h[ev]1 ( "o "y lady at lea/ :o does by night :at %e w n d by day1 = %e has giv5 up h] nightg[n 9 fav\r ( pyjamas4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afj4--,! b&s t survive on a lady's nightdress4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afa4--;,a woman's nightcap1 /ill worn 9 ,wilt%ire4 ,"h & !re we f9d t nightcaps are /ill worn4 ,t belong+ to an old lady1 :i* we figure 7see ,figure #afa71 came f ! village ( ,bi%op/one 9 ,wilt%ire1 :]e no few] ?an twelve old ladies1 all ( !m ov] eighty1 /ill we> su* a head-dress at night4 ,nightcaps 7 worn by m5 9 ! "t ( ! ,tudors1 & t ( ,que5 ,elizabe?1 z is %[n by ! foll[+ extract f a bill ( #aedg3 ,pd4 = two nyght caps ( vellvet = !m1 #hs4 #j;d4#dg ,!y 7 v elaborately embroid]$ at ?is "t1 & 9 ,m>y's reign 7 m5tion$ 9 a sumptu>y law4 ,old m5 /ill we> nightcaps1 & ! "o we figure 0 us$ until lately at ,s\? ,/oke 9 ,ox=d%ire4 ,x is ( ! famili> /yle t we associate ) su* a head-dress1 & has a tassel on ! top4 7,see ,figure #afb47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afb4--;,a man's nightcap1 f ,ox=d%ire4 ,9 ! "t ( ,que5 ,anne ladies wore _! nightdresses1 or night-rails z !y 7 call$1 9 ! /reets1 & ! fa%ion seems to h be5 9 vogue at lat] times1 ?\gh e means 7 tak5 to try & aboli% x4 ,x 0 n until a murd]ess 0 p]suad$ to appe> at h] execution 9 a b$g[n t ! fad 0 rel9qui%$4 ,,xxxi ,,! ,,dress ,,( ,,animals ,,natural ,,repres5tatives ,,( ,,clo!s--,,horse ,,trapp+s--,,amulets ,,on ,,h>ness--,,dogs' ,,disguises--,,fa%ions ,,9 ,,! ,,=m ,,( ,,animals ,"h & !re 9 ! animal k+dom we f9d t creatures protect !mselves f injury by build+ up cases & cov]+s f extrane\s mat]ials1 & ^! may v well be comp>$ ) ! arm\r & clo!s ( mank9d4 ,protection may be ga9$ by m]ely secur+ some?+ ready made to take ! place ( a coat1 z is done 9 ! case ( ! h]mit-crab or soldi]1 :i* cov]s itself ) ! %ell ( "s dead mollusc4 ,! caddis worm1 or l>va ( ! caddis fly1 builds its home ( /icks & /ones or twigs1 & !reby n only pres]ves its s(t body f injury1 b also h>monizes ) its surr\nd+s1 9 ! same way z does ! soldi] on active s]vice 9 "t ( w>4 ,to ga9 protection1 also1 "s molluscs :5 build+ _! %ells introduce /ones & o!r %ells & corals into ! edifice1 s t !y become indi/+ui%able f ! sea-bottom on :i* !y lie4 ,_m cat]pill>s cov] !mselves ) bits ( leaves1 & ev5 ) ! help ( silk make spiral %ells t might easily be mi/ak5 = ^? ( snails4 ,! silk also1 f :i* _m ( our gay clo!s are made1 is spun by ! silkworm1 :i*1 l ! l>va ( _m mo?s1 produces x 9 ord] to protect ! *rysalis :ile x re/s4 ,we are occupi$ "h1 h[ev]1 ) ! cov]+s ( animals t !y owe to man1 & fir/ & =emo/ ( ^? creatures :i* h come 9 = 8 polite att5tions is ! horse4 ,we may recall ! arm\r by :i* ! *>g]s ( ! old knights 7 protect$1 & ! trapp+s or emblazon$ cov]+s t 7 put ov] ?is 9 ! same way z ! surcoat 0 made to cov] ! arm\r ( ! knights4 7,see ,figure #hd47 ,! trapp+s 7 (t5 made ( col\r$ sat91 & 7 embroid]$ ) gold & silv]1 & at ! exhibition held by ! ,burl+ton ,f9e ,arts ,society 9 #aije a *asuble ( r$ velvet 0 %[n1 embroid]$ ) ! arms ( ,engl& 9 gold1 :i* 0 app>5tly made f a horse-trapp] ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,figure #hd well %[s h[ ! horses c>ri$ ! armorial be>+s ( _! ma/]s4 ,9 ! o/ri*-fea!r ornam5ts & ! velvet trapp+s ( mod]n fun]al horses1 we /ill h "s remnants ( ! days ( *ivalry4 ,to-day horse clo?+1 ?\gh n int5d$ to be ( an ornam5tal "*1 we %\ld imag9e1 is /ill (t5 decorat$ ) a monogram ( ! horse's own]4 ,p]haps "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ survivals 9 connection ) horses is to be f\nd 9 ! brasses :i* decorate ^? us$ = c>ts & waggons4 ,dr4 ,pl[right#dh has %[n t _m ( ^! ornam5ts1 :i* are really amulets put on to ! h>ness ) a view to protect+ ! horses aga9/ ! evil eye1 are ( ,moori% orig94 ,he contra/s _! /yle ) ! ornam5tal details %[n 9 ! ,alhambra1 & he figures a numb] :i* take ! =m ( a cresc5t1 or a cresc5t enclos+ an eight-ray$ />1 & o!rs 9 :i* ! ornam5t %[s eyes & eyebr[s conv5tionaliz$4 ,9 o!r cases we get ! fleur-de-lys treat$ 9 an arabesque way1 ! escallop %ell & ! my/ic int]lac$ triangles 7:i* 7 consid]$ ! talisman ( talismans1 & are kn[n z ! seal ( ,solomon or ! %ield ( ,david71 ) a cresc5t 9 ! c5tre4 ,miss ,l9a ,eck5/e9#di figures _m o!r horse brasses :i* c be comp>$ ) ^? worn by ,roman c>t-horses4 ,among !m is ! cresc5t1 :i* 0 also worn by wom5 c>v$ 9 ivory1 & by c]ta9 s5ators z ornam5ts on _! %oes4 ,! cresc5t is made f a ?9 plate ( metal1 & is worn by *ildr5 on ! we/ coa/ ( ,india1 ) ! po9ts upw>ds1 z a protection aga9/ ! evil eye1 & gold ornam5ts ( simil> %ape are among ^? :i* 7 worn 9 anci5t ,p]u4 ,! moon1 f times ( remote antiquity1 has be5 repres5t$ by a r+ = ! full moon & a half-r+ or sickle = ! cresc5t4 ,miss ,eck5/e9 does n1 h[ev]1 c>ry ! orig9 ( ! horse amulets back to ! /one /age ( civilization1 b %e ?9ks t ! cresc5t repres5ts two bo>s' tusks jo9$ toge!r by a ?ong1 & ! horse-amulet n[ worn 9 ,italy %[s ! ?9ness & %>pness ( curve t w\ld be evid5t 9 "o :i* 0 made out ( bo>s' tusks4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afc4--;,an ,engli% horse amulet 9 ! =m ( a cresc5t4 ,! flat places ne> ! tips ( ! horns are evid5ce t ! =m is d]iv$ f two bo>s' tusks4 ,we may po9t out t 9 "s ,engli% cresc5ts ! holl[s :i* "o tusk makes by we>+ aga9/ its fell[ are repres5t$ by little flat places on ! horns ( ! cresc5t ne> _! tips4 7,see ,figure #afc47 ,! brasses se5 9 ,engl& to-day are worn on ! face-plate1 brea/-plate1 & m>t+ale4 ,on gr& occasions1 su* z ,may ,day celebrations1 & ! c>t-horse p>ade ( ,:it ,monday1 brasses are specially put on1 ?\gh !re is a t5d5cy n[ = !m to be /amp$ out ( ?9 metal in/ead ( be+ ca/1 ) ! result t !y soon we> out4 ,g]man horses we> ! cresc5t on a /rap :i* dangles bel[ ! "r e>4 ,! ,engli% cresc5t f h>ness w be f\nd to mat* ^? :i* are repres5t$ on ! horses on ,trajan's column & o!r monum5ts4 ,! same design is to be se5 also on ! h>ness ( camels & elephants4 ,! mo/ important symbol besides ! moon is t ( ! sun1 :i* is worn on ! top ( ! head betwe5 ! e>s4 ,h]aldic brasses are n uncommon1 & ! he>t-%ap$ amulet is also se52 x is possible1 too1 t ?is =m may be connect$ ) t ( ! fl9t arr[s1 :i* we h already m5tion$ z be+ worn z amulets4 ,9 ,egypt1 an amulet hung on a c[ is said to protect ! woman :o owns x1 & ,miss ,eck5/e9 sugge/s a simil> orig9 9 ! case ( ! he>t worn by horses4 ,a brass %[+ a horse rampant1 came f ! e/ate ( ! ,duke ( ,norfolk at ,arundel1 & x w be se5 on look+ at ! arms ( ! nobleman 9 "q t ?is device =ms "o ( ! support]s ( 8 %ield4 ,9 prehi/oric ,egypt ! slate palettes on :i* mala*ite 0 gr\nd = face pa9t+ 7 (t5 9 ! =m ( two birds1 ) _! bodies put back to back1 & _! heads fully %[n1 & :5 ?is =m deg5]ates x becomes a k9d ( he>t-%ap$ %ield4 ,pr(essor ,petrie has po9t$ out t :5 ?is decoration is us$1 z on c(f9s & else:]e1 x is (t5 ?\ght to be m]ely a %ield4 ,possibly ! he>t-%ap$ amulet may h "s connection ) ?is4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afd4--;,an ,engli% horse amulet %[+ bo? ! he>t & ! sun4 ,an amulet f\nd by ,pr(essor ,vellucci 9 ,umbria consi/$ ( an arr[-head sewn ^u a piece ( sc>let clo?1 :i* 0 ( a he>t %ape1 & 0 int5d$ d\btless to emphasize ! he>t significance4 ,ano!r horse amulet1 obta9$ by ,miss ,eck5/e9 f ,sicily1 also consi/s ( a piece ( sc>let clo? cut into ! %ape ( a he>t & decorat$ ) t9sel4 ,an ,engli% horse brass se5 9 ,figure #afd %[s bo? ! he>t & ! sun4 ,:ile on ! subject ( horses1 "o might allude to ! wisps ( /raw :i* are twi/$ 9 ! mane & tail ( c>t-horses :5 !y are = sale at m>kets & fairs4 ,horses 7 sacrific$ 9 ! old days2 & z ! slay+ ( dome/ic animals 0 suppos$ to secure fruitfulness1 ! horse became id5tifi$ z a corn _s1 & ! kill+ ( horses =m$ a necess>y incid5t ( ! h>ve/4 ,! deity ,demet] took ^u himself ! semblance ( a m>e1 & ! ^w m>e is appli$ 9 ! ,midl&s to ! la/ uncut e>s ( corn1 at :i* ! sickles are ?r[n 9 ord] to br+ !m d[n4 ,x is possible t ! wisps ( /raw worn by horses are connect$ ) ^! ideas4 ,a v curi\s & int]e/+ cu/om is repres5t$ on ! trapp+s ( ! horses ridd5 by ! (fic]s ( ! #aj? ,huss>s4 ,^! trapp+s are ornam5t$ on full-dress occasions ) c[ry %ells2 & to f9d a p>allel to ?is we h to g to ! ,ea/1 :]e ! head-/alls ( ! camels & mules are cov]$ ) ! %ells1 :ile r\nd _! necks & ^? ( donkeys !re may hang an ornam5t or bell on a b& :i* is simil>ly decorat$4 ,x w be not$ t !re is a p5dant f ! head ( ! ,huss> horse :i* resembles t ( ! mule ( ! ,holy ,l&4 ,!re is no d\bt b t orig9ally ^! ornam5ts 7 really amulets1 & x is said t !y are a survival ( anci5t phallic wor%ip4 7,see ,figures #afe-g47 ,c[ry %ells 7 once g5]ally us$ by ! ,huss>s1 & 7 reviv$ 9 ! case ( ! #aj? ,huss>s 9 connection ) s]vice 9 ,india4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afe4--,! c[ry-%ell ornam5ts on ! head ( an (fic]'s *>g] ( ! #aj? ,huss>s4 ,! p5dant recalls t on mules 9 ,pale/9e4 ,toby1 z we h se51 is decorat$ ) an ,elizabe?an ruff1 b ! we>+ ( coll>s & bells by pet animals is a remnant ( a v old cu/om1 & on e>ly m$ival brasses 9 ?is c\ntry1 dogs are (t5 se5 decorat$ ) coll>s--sometimes be>+ _! actual names--& ) bells4 ,n[ ! we>+ ( a coll> is en=c$ by law z a means ( id5tification4 ,all dogs f\nd )\t coll>s may be consid]$ z /rays1 & ! regulation foll[$1 z is well kn[n1 ^u ! muzzl+ ord] by :i* hydrophobia 0 practically /amp$ out4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aff4--;,c[ry %ells on an ,ea/]n mule1 hang+ l ! p5dant ( ! #aj? ,huss>s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afg4--;,c[ry %ells on ! head-/all ( a camel f ,pale/9e4 ,mr4 ,c4 ,j4 ,corni%#ej once consid]$ ! subject ( animals' clo!s1 & made "s int]e/+ rem>ks on horses' hats & sun-bonnets4 ,he describ$ ! foll[+ sight1 met ) 9 ,k5s+ton ,gore3 ,fir/ came a co/]mong] ) 8 horse duly hatt$ & ! hat trimm$ ) ribbon2 next came a lady we>+ a hat1 9 a victoria4 ,h] horse also _h a hat1 & bo? hats _h p9k fl[]s 9 !m4 ,9 ,holl&1 c[s we> ra9-pro( jackets all ! w9t]1 & coats = %[ cattle are q ! fa%ion 9 ,engl&4 ,mr4 ,corni% says t a really sm>t ,j]sey c[ w\ld n l to be se5 at a %[ )\t h] luggage--a *e/ conta9+1 n only h] sleep+ jacket1 b h] bru%es & combs1 cosmetics & horn protectors4 ,%e puts on1 or has put on1 a sm>t] jacket 9 ! daytime if %e has to /& 9 a draughty place2 if %e is n sleep+ out x does n s mu* matt]4 ,!re are _m ladies :o w\ld almo/ g )\t a jacket !mselves r ?an see _! be/ animals g to a %[ )\t prop] clo!s4 ,9 ! ,nor? lambs are provid$ ) wat]pro( coats :5 go+ on to ! hills4 ,^! g>m5ts are call$ brats1 & ! "n has be5 transf]r$ n only to ! "y %eep !mselves1 b also to human babies4 ,we are all famili> ) ! clo!s :i* monkeys we> :5 !y g ab\t ) organs1 & ! big apes :i* are exhibit$ at %[s are sometimes ev5 clo!d 9 ! dress suit ( conv5tionality4 ,johanna1 ! *impanzee :i* 0 at ,b>num's exhibition1 look$ v effective 9 h] petticoats1 & ! p5gu9s at ! ,zoo1 :5 p]=m+ tricks1 we> coats1 :ile animal actors are (t5 dress$ to suit _! p>ts4 ,!re is "o case at lea/ 9 :i* animals are disguis$ by dress+ !m up4 ,!re 0 a duck-decoy dog :i* 0 kn[n to ,mr4 ,corni%1 :i*1 9 ! fir/ in/ance1 grew z mu* l a fox z x 0 possible = a dog to be4 ,?is prov$ exce$+ly attractive to ! ducks1 :i* seem to h an irresi/ible impulse to swim aft] a fox 9 ord] to see :at he is ab\t4 ,9 a %ort "t1 h[ev]1 !y get us$ to a p>ticul> dog1 & _! curiosity dies away4 ,!n ! dog's ma/] supplies him ) a disguise 9 ! %ape ( a jacket made ( %eepsk94 ,fur!rmore1 :5 ?is palls a r\gh wooll5 jacket ( a black col\r is br\ght into requisition1 & ! dog app>5tly kn[s ! mean+ ( ! :ole p]=mance4 ,9 o!r cases ! disguise ( a decoy dog takes ! %ape ( a foxsk9 ) its bru%4 ,rac+ dogs1 prize dogs1 & pet dogs also h _! coats1 & we h he>d ev5 ( bracelets = poodles1 :ile !re are fa%ions :i* regulate ! way 9 :i* ! hair ( ^! dogs %\ld be cut4 ,j z m5 & wom5 de=m !mselves1 s !y mutilate _! animals by ! clipp+ ( _! e>s & ! %ort5+ ( _! tails--practices :i* are worse ?an ! dubb+ ( ! birds' combs 9 ! old days ( cock-fight+1 = ! infliction ( "o slight injury probably prev5t$ _m4 ,?is de=m+ ( animals is a savage cu/om1 = ,hott5tots twi/ ! horns ( _! cattle & %eep1 :ile a numb] ( horns are produc$ 9 ,africa by splitt+ ! budd+ horns ( ! "y animals4 ,?\gh n obvi\sly caus+ any de=mity1 !re is "o fa%ion :i*1 ?\gh condemn$ by mo/ p1 is /ill foll[$ by o!rwise cultur$ & humane p4 ,we ref] to ! be>+-re9 ) :i* horses' heads are kept 9 unnatural1 uncom=table1 & con/ra9$ positions4 ,if1 h[ev]1 we consid] animal fa%ions z a :ole1 & br+ "u discussion ! col\rs & peculi>ities ( ! fur or fea!rs t cov] _! bodies1 we %all f9d t m5 f q e>ly times h amus$ !mselves ) produc+ all mann] ( curi\s & /rik+ appe>ances4 ,! fact is1 t ! ord9>y conditions & dang]s ( life 9 ! op51 :i* w\ld soon elim9ate any creatures out ( h>mony ) _! surr\nd+s1 d n act 9 ! case ( dome/icat$ animals v mu*2 & ?is has be5 a help4 ,we h1 !re=e1 :ite rats1 piebald mice1 gold fi%es--"s ev5 ) sev]al tails--yell[ can>ies1 frizzl$ bantams1 hairless dogs1 hornless cattle1 boot$ bantams1 & top-knott$ f[ls1 z well z ho/s ( patt]ns & =ms t are h>dly to be numb]$4 ,!re is an adage t l produces l1 b ! /ud5t ( h]$ity has rec5tly become aw>e ( ! fact t animals ( a c]ta9 col\r may n always produce (fspr+ :i* resemble !m 9 ?is respect2 b t 9 ord] to get ! t9t requir$ = %[ purposes1 p>5ts ( "s p>ticul> b unfa%ionable col\r %\ld be *os54 ,! col\r ( animals is tak5 into consid]ation 9 connection ) c]emonies4 ,:ite elephants h to be treat$ z if !y 7 gods1 & prov]bially co/ mu* to keep4 ,black horses are usually us$ at fun]als2 :ite or grey horses1 :i* are mu* decorat$ ) ! badges & insignia ( ! regim5ts1 c>ry ! kettl$rums ( ! cavalry4 ,! ,scots ,greys take _! "n f _! horses1 :i* are all grey1 l ^? ) :i*1 x is said1 !y 7 suppli$ by ,william ,,iii 9 ,fl&]s4 ,spott$ ,dalmatian h\nds are ^? :i* are *os5 to run by ! side ( c>riages1 :ile circus horses exhibit mu* v>iety ( col\r+4 ,:ips are p]haps a little beside ! subject1 ?\gh !re are fa%ions ) reg>d to !m4 ,n long ago x 0 cu/om>y = ! :ip /ick 9 connection ) a sm>t turn-out to h a b5d 9 x4 ,9 v>i\s p>ts ( ! ,ea/ ! camel driv] c>ries 9 a graceful mann] a r$ =k$ /ick1 & "o ( ?is =m 0 us$ z a sceptre 9 anci5t ,egypt f #ejjj ,b4,c4 d[nw>ds1 s t we meet ) a v int]e/+1 if humble1 survival ( :at 0 once a royal ornam5t4 ,,xxxii ,,col\r ,,importance ,,( ,,col\r--,,in/9ctive ,,love ,,( ,,bright ,,hues--,,desirability ,,( ,,col\r$ ,,clo!s ,,& ,,gay ,,sc5es--,,col\r ,,& ,,complexion ,x has be5 app>5t ?r\gh\t ?is book1 z x is 9 ev]yday life1 t col\r plays a trem5d\s "p4 ,n only has x (t5 a great significance1 b its pres5ce or abs5ce mu/ also h a consid]able effect ^u ! m9ds ( ! p at l>ge4 ,"o _c help ?9k+ t if wom5 7 to dress z a :ole 9 ! same quiet1 or let u say solemn1 t9ts :i* are *>act]i/ic ( m5 9 _! ev]yday life1 h[ mu* we %\ld lose4 ,yet t !re is a crav+ = bright col\rs is %[n 9 e direction1 & t !y are attractive to ^? :o d n !mselves h an opportunity ( we>+ !m is also obvi\s4 ,! ,high ,*ur* cl]gy 9 ?is c\ntry make use ( ! col\r$ ve/m5ts t _h develop$ 9 ! ,roman ,ca?olic ,*ur* previ\s to ! ,re=mation1 & :i* h be5 proclaim$ illegal4 ,! new univ]sities vie ) ! old] seats ( le>n+ 9 ! col\rs :i* !y *oose = g[ns & hoods4 ,x is m]ely a "q ( exp5se :i* prev5ts ! fancy-dress dance f be+ m common ?an x is4 ,! pageants :i* h be5 held 9 v>i\s p>ts ( ?is c\ntry1 & ! pr(its :i* h be5 made 9 _m cases1 be> out :at we h said4 ,m51 z %[n by ! r$ coats :i* !y don = hunt+ & golf+1 ! col\rs 9 :i* !y ride /eeple*ases or play hockey1 or ! dresses 9 :i* !y ba!1 seek z f> z possible dur+ _! leisure h\r pursuits to g back to bright array4 ,plays also are popul> :i* are ca/ 9 ! times :5 picturesque attire fl\ri%$ or :i* borr[ x f ,ori5tal c\ntries4 ,! significance ( col\r is exce$+ly f> rea*+4 ,! ord9>y liv]ies ( ,royalty 9 ?is c\ntry are r$2 ! r$ %irt ( ! foll[]s ( ,g>ibaldi1 ! r$ cap ( ,lib]ty 9 ! ,fr5* ,revolution1 ! r$ rose ( ,lanca/]1 call to m9d great /ruggles4 ,! platelay]1 x is said1 is in/ruct$ to we> a r$ tie s t on em]g5cy x may be us$ z a dang] signal4 ,a r$ ribbon worn 9 ! hair ( a girl 9 "s places on ! ,cont95t %[s t %e is engag$ to be m>ri$1 & x is ) a r$ rag t ! *ulos 9 ! bull fight enrage ! bull4 ,! t]m born 9 ! purple alludes to ?is col\r hav+ be5 t adopt$ by emp]ors & k+s 9 ! pa/4 ,yell[ is a fav\rite col\r ) gipsies2 ! wom5 we> yell[ k]*iefs & yell[ beads1 :ile ! m5 fav\r yell[ neckties4 ,mr4 ,yoxall#ea po9ts out t ?is col\r 0 worn by m$ival ,jews1 & _h a contemptu\s or degrad+ significance4 ,we h se5 t yell[ has be5 *os5 z a m\rn+ col\r 9 ,ori5tal c\ntries1 & possibly x 0 adopt$ on "s p>ticul> occasion by gipsies l ! black worms t we h m5tion$ 9 ! lace ( milit>y uni=ms1 & has nev] be5 entirely left (f s9ce4 ,among savages1 yell[ comes next 9 popul>ity to r$1 & x is said t "y *ildr5 are also fond ( r$1 b are incl9$ to pref] yell[4 ,! latt] col\r is n s /imulat+ z r$1 & ?is is well %[n by ! fact t ! r$ light us$ 9 photographic works 0 f\nd to cause s mu* m5tal irritation on ! "p ( ! work]s t x has be5 ab&on$ 9 _m cases 9 fav\r ( orange4 ,z reg>ds ! pref]5ce ( old] p]sons1 x has be5 f\nd t s*oolgirls are m precoci\s ?an boys 9 ! discrim9ation ( col\rs1 & nev] pref] orange to any o!r col\r1 yet !y *oose yell[ r ?an gre51 & usually ?an violet1 b nev] pref] x to r$ or blue4 ,z age goes on1 male /ud5ts %ift _! lik+ t[>ds ! violet end ( ! spectrum :i* is ! fav\rite "o ) m51 :ile wom5 keep to ! r$4 ,blue is associat$ 9 ?is c\ntry ) ! boat race held betwe5 repres5tatives ( ! two old ,univ]sities ( ,ox=d & ,cambridge1 & blue is usually tak5 to repres5t ! ,lib]al side 9 political elections4 ,! blue bl\se ( ! but*] is *>act]i/ic1 &1 z we h f\nd1 is a /ill bett] in/ance ( ! survival ( a trade co/ume ?an t se5 9 ! case ( s]vants4 ,! col\r1 x is said1 0 *os51 z blood /a9s are n s noticeable ^u x z ^u o!r t9ts4 ,a black habit is t :i* ! cl]gy adopt :5 n engag$ 9 religi\s duties1 :ile :ite has = c5turies be5 us$ by !m :5 conduct+ s]vices4 ,! same two col\rs1 if we c s call !m1 are to be f\nd 9 m\rn+1 & to !m a man is n[ re/rict$ :5 he appe>s 9 ord9>y ,c\rt or ev5+ dress4 ,! use ( col\r m]ely z a di/+ui%+ m>k )\t any deep] orig9 or special significance is s g5]al t we %all t\* ^u x1 & recall "o or two in/ances ) :i* we h previ\sly met4 ,! gorge\s dresses ( ! ,masons & ! bright gre5 sc>fs ( _! humbl] bre?r51 ! ,=e/]s1 are fur!r evid5ces ( ! love :i* civiliz$ man /ill reta9s ( dress+ himself up4 ,x is only b little less /rongly develop$ app>5tly 9 him ?an x is 9 8 *ildr5 & 9 savage p4 ,we po9t$ out t r$1 al?\gh a special "* ( ! ,briti% ,army1 is v f> f be+ ! univ]sal col\r ( ! uni=m4 ,we h _h to deal ) blue1 buff1 :ite1 & black among ! o!r col\rs t are to be se5 adorn+ ! bodies ( our soldi]s4 ,! col\rs ( h]aldry no long] appe> on our p]sons1 except :5 we we> fav\rs su* z ribbons ( r$1 :ite1 & blue t come f national flags1 & "h we may recall t ! /&>ds ( our regim5ts are call$ _! col\rs1 & illu/rate n only regim5tal b national hi/ory4 ,! "p t col\r plays 9 ! hoods & g[ns ( academical dress has on m ?an "o occasion occupi$ our att5tion4 ,v>i\s col\r$ veils s]ve to diff]5tiate ! si/]s ( a religi\s ord]1 :ile ! ribbons & mantles ( ! knightly ord]s s]ve a simil> purpose4 ,x seems a great pity t at ! pres5t day ! *apt]s or meet+s ( ^! ,ord]s are seldom if ev] held1 & x w\ld surely be int]e/+ & useful1 z well z enliv5+1 = c]ta9 occasions to be creat$ on :i* ! public might h an opportunity ( see+ m ( ! dresses :i* h be5 h&$ d[n to our own times4 ,x is true t ! ,k+ has ( rec5t ye>s op5$ ,p>liam5t 9 p]son1 & glimpses may h be5 _h ( him 9 8 /ate robes by a privileg$ few1 b surely "s opportunity %\ld be f\nd ( hav+ m pageants :i* are real & :]e !re is no ne$ = any make-believe4 ,besides hav+ ! advantages :i* we h urg$ w\ld accrue f ! br++ ( a little m col\r into our lives1 su* meet+s w\ld also h a practical result1 & be exce$+ly good = trade4 ,x is obvi\s t c]ta9 co/umes1 p>ticul>ly ! gay peasant dresses ( ! ,cont95t1 suit ! /yle1 complexion1 & col\r+ ( ^? :o we> !m4 ,9 races l our own1 :]e we h all k9ds ( /ages betwe5 ! v fair blonde & ! v d>k brunette1 ! "q ( ! *oice ( col\rs f an arti/ic po9t ( view is important4 ,!re is also ! "q ( surr\nd+s to be consid]$1 ?\gh n[adays x is n e "o :o c af=d ! "t1 z ! late ,mrs4 ,haweis did1 to visit ! rooms 9 :i* %e 0 invit$ to sp5d an ev5+1 s t ! col\rs ( h] co/ume might be arrang$ to h>monize ) h] tempor>y surr\nd+s4 ,,xxxiii ,,patt]ns ,,anci5t ,,designs--,,*ecks ,,& ,,t>tans--,,p>ti-,,col\r$ ,,clo!s--,,evolution ,,( ,,ornam5tation ,! subject ( patt]ns is a v wide "o1 & we %all cont5t ourselves ) m5tion+ a few to %[ h[ ^! h surviv$4 ,:5 speak+ ( /uds1 we _h occasion to m5tion ! swa/ika or fylfot1 :i* is probably ! e>lie/ kn[n symbol4 ,x is ! =]unn] ( ! cross1 & x occurs on ecclesia/ical ve/m5ts z well z civil clo!s1 & ! well-kn[n key patt]n 0 d]iv$ f x4 ,on ,plate ,,vii1 ,figure ,f1 x may be se5 on ! %\ld] ( ! ,romano-,egyptian man1 & its use seems to be almo/ univ]sal4 ,! p9e patt]n :i* we see on %awls is ( ,ea/]n orig91 & x is said t x orig9ally 0 tak5 f a map ( "s riv]s 9 ,ca%m]e4 ,*ecks & plaids are among ! commone/ ( our pres5t-day designs1 & ! ,gauls & ^? ( our =]unn]s1 :o fl\ri%$ at ! "t ( ,cs>1 wore bree*es ( *equ]$ patt]ns4 ,9 fact1 ! v "n ( bree*es is d]iv$ f breac1 :i* means /rip$ or spott$1 & 9 ,gaelic also signifies ! tr\t1 :i* is speckl$4 ,usually ! anci5t bree*es %[$ a numb] ( col\rs1 9 :i*1 accord+ to ,diodorus1 r$ pr$om9at$4 ,que5 ,boadicea wore a tunic app>5tly ( plaid1 ! col\rs ( :i* _h a mixture ( blue1 r$1 & yell[4 ,! real %eph]d's plaid ( ,scotl& is ( a pla9] "*1 be+ m]ely black & :ite1 b x is 9 ! special t>tans ( ! ,scot* clans t we f9d ! sy/em ( col\r$ l9es & squ>es c>ri$ to great p]fection4 ,^! t>tans1 z we may judge1 date back to times ( :i* we h no record1 b !y h be5 us$ cont9u\sly 9 hi/oric times4 ,9 ! acc\nts ( ,k+ ,james ,,iii ( ,scotl&1 9 #adga1 !re are sev]al entries ) reg>d to money sp5t on t>tans4 ,! t>tans1 ( c\rse1 7 a di/+ui%+ m>k ( ! v>i\s ,scotti% clans1 b sometimes1 :5 attempts h be5 made to id5tify ! patt]ns1 confusion has aris5 ow+ to ! fact t _m clans _h m ?an "o t>tan2 9 fact1 !re may be ! common clan t>tan2 t :i* 0 worn only by ! *ief & 8 heir2 a dress t>tan2 a f\r? = hunt+1 & a fif? = m\rn+4 ,= in/ance1 :ile ! dress t>tan ( ! ,mac,phersons consi/s *iefly ( black & :ite1 ) ?9 l9es ( r$ & yell[1 ! hunt+ t>tan ( ! same clan is black & buff1 ) l9es ( blue & r$4 ,simil>ly1 9 ! ,royal ,/u>t t>tans1 we f9d t ! ord9>y ,royal ,/u>t has l>ge r$ squ>es1 ! hunt+ t>tan is mo/ly gre5 & blue1 :ile ! dress ,/u>t has a l>ge am\nt ( :ite 9 its composition4 ,!re 01 ( c\rse1 a wond]ful v>iety 9 col\rs1 & x is int]e/+ to note t all ! dyes requir$ 7 obta9$ f common native plants4 ,9 ,engl&1 aft] ! ,norman ,conque/1 !re seems to h be5 little patt]n us$ up to ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,ii1 :5 diap] began to appe>4 ,j z damask takes its "n f ,damascus1 s diap] orig9ally 0 d]iv$ f ,d',ypres1 mean+ ( ,ypres1 a t[n :i* 0 not$ = ri* /uffs & f9e l954 ,9 ,edw>d ,,ii's "t pi$ clo? & p>ti-col\r$ silks came into vogue1 :ile co/umes ( a p>ti-col\r$ "*1 :i* develop$ 9 ! foll[+ reign to su* an ext5t1 7 se5 = ! fir/ "t4 ,sometimes ! :ole dress w\ld be symmetrically divid$1 s t half 0 ( "o col\r & half ( ano!r4 ,aga91 ! clo!s w\ld be /rip$ 9 v>i\s directions1 or "o w\ld f9d ! "r arm & left leg col\r$ blue1 :ile ! o!r two limbs 7 r$4 ,we get some?+ ( ! same k9d ( ornam5tation n[adays1 z already notic$1 9 ! dress ( jockeys & ! col\rs ( a?letic clubs4 ,9 /udy+ decorative patt]ns1 ! way 9 :i* "s natural object has (t5 become conv5tionaliz$ is v int]e/+ to trace1 & if ?is is s 9 ! case ( art ( civiliz$ p1 x is /ill m true ( savage decoration4 ,our object is n1 h[ev]1 to deal ) ! evolution ( ornam5tation pure & simple1 ?\gh we comm5d its /udy to our read]s4 ,turn+ to ! ,jews = a mom5t1 we may recall t "p ( ! adornm5t ( ! ,high ,prie/s consi/$ ( pomegranates & bells4 ,! connection does n seem at all obvi\s1 & ,mrs4 ,f9n has sugge/$ t ! bells are probably ! fl[]s ( ! pomegranate :i* h be5 conv5tionaliz$4 ,,xxxiv ,,impressions ,,to ,,be ,,ga9$ ,,f ,,dress ,,clues ,,f ,,clo!s--,,individuality ,,n ,,disguis$ ,,by ,,!m--,,mod]n ,,dress ,,( ,,o!r ,,c\ntries--,,significance ,,( ,,clo!s ,if we turn our att5tion once m to clo!s & _! effect ^u ! outsid]1 !re are que/ions to consid] ) reg>d to :at may be judg$ f dress4 ,fir/ ( all1 z to ! matt] ( social /atus1 x mu/ be confess$ t x is v mu* m difficult n[adays ?an x 0 ye>s ago to make any pron\ncem5ts f clo!s1 ?\gh x mu/ be po9t$ out t !re is a way ( we>+ clo!s1 q irrespective ( _! k9d1 t w help u consid]ably 9 mak+ a judgm5t4 ,! reason = ! levell+ up or d[n z ! case may be1 is due1 ( c\rse1 to ! /&>d ( luxury hav+ be5 rais$ & ! price ( mat]ials = clo?+ hav+ be5 l[]$4 ,z reg>ds ! det]m9ation ( ! pr(ession ( ! we>] f 8 or h] dress1 x mu/ be said t (t5 we rema9 q at a loss 9 ! matt]4 ,be>+ & expression & g5]al action may aga9 af=d a clue4 ,*>act]i/ic co/umes are n[ r>e4 ,we c tell ! cl]ic z a rule1 ?\gh "s1 especially ^? :o h belong$ to "s o!r pr(ession previ\sly1 w n adopt ! coll>less coat ( black1 ! *ok]1 or ! :ite tie4 ,s]vants' liv]ies may be left out ( consid]ation "h1 b ! man t has to d ) horses prov]bially looks horsey4 ,to ! li/ ( uni=ms to :i* we are accu/om$ !re has be5 add$ ( rec5t ye>s t ( ! hospital nurse4 ,! g>b ( v>i\s si/]hoods /ill cat*es our eye1 & !re are c]ta9 po9ts :i* may help u occasionally 9 id5tify+ a doctor1 a lawy]1 a s*oolma/]1 & an actor4 ,accord+ to a rec5t article by a detective 9 "o ( ! daily pap]s1#eb ! *>act]i/ics & individuality ( a man w %[ ?r\gh 8 clo!s1 & ! writ] allud$ to1 sugge/s ! putt+ ( a cl]gyman into a soldi]'s or a sailor's uni=m1 or aga91 ! dress+ ( a valet 9 8 ma/]'s clo!s4 ,he w look q diff]5t4 ,he w give a fre% "* to ! clo!s1 & y w realize at once t he is a second-h& copy4 ,mr4 ,*evasse says t if y walk d[n ,ox=d ,/reet1 ,piccadilly1 or ?r\gh ! ,city1 y may pick out ! ex-army (fic]1 9 8 mufti twe$1 = 8 in/9ct = dress is s +ra9$ t x is easy to recognize him4 ,mr4 ,*evasse w\ld tell ! fa%ionable physician f ! foll[+ signs4 ,8 frock coat1 scrupul\sly cut1 8 silk hat correctly quiet1 :i* fit 9 ) 8 sleek mann]s & ! sang-froid ( 8 sup]ior k4 ,! dress dummy is ano!r type--! man ) ! airs ( a peacock1 ^: e article ( dress is meant to attract att5tion4 ,( ! actor :om "o meets 9 ! ,/r&1 x is said t ! odds & ends :i* he we>s are typical ( ! p>ts he plays1 b t 8 real individual "* is n disguis$ z sometimes he might wi% x to be4 ,9 simil> fa%ion we are giv5 ! po9ts ( ! mod]n solicitor1 ( :om !re are1 we are told1 two classes4 ,! fir/ type is dress$ to exhale prosp]ity1 & to conv9ce ! litigant t he is a safe man1 b ! "* ( 8 wai/coat w tell y m (t5 ?an n t he robs ,pet] to pay ,paul4 ,! dress ( o!r solicitors beams out s9c]ity1 tru?1 reliability2 ! clo? is good & pla91 & is well fitt$ to inspire tru/ & confid5ce4 ,at ! pres5t "t s _m visitors f o!r c\ntries1 :o are soj\rn+ "h = a :ile or h come to /ay1 are to be se5 9 our /reets1 t x may be ( int]e/ to see :at ! ,editor ( ! ,tailor & ,cutt]#ec has to say ^u ! subject ( _! dress1 or s f> z t ( ! m5 goes4 ,he says t1 z a rule1 9 ! case ( ! memb]s ( ! ari/ocracy ( all nations1 _! g>m5ts give ! impression ( hav+ be5 made 9 ,london1 & are free f ! peculi>ities :i* *>act]ize ^? ( o!r c\ntries4 ,g5]ally speak+1 h[ev]1 x is n difficult to tell ! nationality ( a man by 8 clo!s4 ,! ,am]ican's g>m5ts are usually made two sizes too l>ge = him4 ,! coll> ( 8 coat is v n>r[1 & ! %\ld]s & back1 on ! o!r h&1 exce$+ly wide4 ,8 jackets are (t5 extremely long1 8 tr\s]s are peg-tops1 f9i%$ ) rais$ seams4 ,9 "s ways ! ,g]man is a modifi$ ,am]ican1 ?\gh (t5 !re is to be f\nd a seam up ! front ( 8 coat f ! wai/1 z he likes pl5ty ( room ab\t 8 *e/1 ( :i* he makes mu*4 ,:ile ! ,am]ican1 h[ev]1 (t5 has 8 coat f9i%$ 9 "s extraord9>y way :i* he fancies to be orig9al1 !re is a lack ( p]sonality ab\t ! ,g]man1 & ! uni=mity ( 8 g>m5ts w\ld appe> to be ! result ( 8 milit>y tra9+4 ,! ,am]ican likes a l\nge suit1 & ! ,g]man ! same1 or a morn+ coat1 :ile ! ,fr5*man fav\rs ! latt] or a frock coat1 :i* he has f9i%$ (f ) z mu* ornam5tation z possible 9 ! way ( silk fac+s1 braid$ edges1 & fanta/ic flaps4 ,8 g>m5ts are close-fitt+1 & ! wai/ is emphasiz$4 ,! ,spani>d is l ! ,fr5*man ) modifications1 = 8 g>m5ts are ta/eful & neat1 ) few peculi>ities4 ,9 w>m wea!r he we>s no ve/1 & 8 jackets are close-fitt+ & f9i%$ ) a l[ roll4 ,9 ,au/rian & ,hung>ian clo!s ,fr5* & ,g]man ideas seem to be skilfully bl5d$1 :ile ,italian dress has m ( ! ,fr5* ?an ( ! ,g]man *>act]s4 ,norwegians & ,danes are l ,engli%m51 ?\gh !re is p]haps a little m precis5ess & /iffness ab\t _! clo!s4 ,! colonial has no desire = %[1 & 8 twe$ l\nge suit is cut = com=t & made up = /r5g?4 ,! impressions to be ga9$ f dress t we h hi!rto m5tion$ 9 ?is *apt] are *iefly ^? :i* are un9t5tionally giv5 to u by _! we>]s4 ,! significances :i* x is meant t clo!s %\ld be> are /ill mo/ num]\s & important4 ,to-day1 on ord9>y occasions1 rank is n %[n by any special dress1 :i* ^? 9 high /ations !mselves we>1 ?\gh ! case ( _! s]vants is diff]5t4 ,9 e>li] times 9 our hi/ory1 especially "u ! e>li] ,tudors1 rank 0 indicat$ 9 civilian dress4 ,n[ ! frock coat worn by ,k+ & ,pe] is consid]$ j z necess>y 9 _m bus9esses1 & is *>act]i/ic ( ! %op-walk]4 ,m5 ( assur$ position c ev5 af=d to dress badly1 ?\gh ! poor man _c4 ,"h & !re we h met ) survivals ( class co/umes 7see pages #aej & #cjh71 & to ^! we may add t ( ! co/]mong]s1 = 9 ! dress ( bo? m5 & wom5 !re are peculi>ities :i* s+le !m out4 ,9 ! same way we f9d remnants "h & !re ( special dresses t are *>act]i/ic ( trades4 ,! blue bl\se ( ! but*]1 ! :ite clo!s ( ! butt]man or man cook1 & ! :ite cap ( ! latt] are cases 9 po9t2 & 9 connection ) c]ta9 duties & mod]n manufactures we h special dresses4 ,we might allude to ! ov]alls ( furri]s1 fea!r m]*ants1 & /ation]s4 ,div]s1 sewage m51 & m9]s h special dresses1 & boil] clean]s h a curi\s dress ( coat & tr\s]s made 9 "o1 :i* recalls "o =m ( ! milit>y tunic us$ by ! ,norman soldi]s1 :i* sometimes end$ 9 closely fitt+ tr\s]s4 ,x 0 fir/ drawn on ! legs1 & ! arms 7 !n put ?r\gh ! sleeves4 ,su* comb9ation g>m5ts are %[n 9 contempor>y draw+s1 & x has be5 que/ion$ :e!r ^! 7 really made 9 "o piece1 b ! arti/1 ?\gh he might n indicate ) c]ta9ty ! op5+s ?r\gh :i* !y 7 put on1 is h>dly likely to h left out ! l9es :i* w\ld h made cle> a division at ! wai/4 ,at ! pres5t "t 9 ,engl& !re are v little diff]5ces 9 ! co/ume ( s+le & m>ri$ wom51 ?\gh x 0 once compulsory = !m to dress diff]5tly4 ,! rema9s1 h[ev]1 ( ! cu/om are to be f\nd 9 pl5ty 9 =eign c\ntries4 ,9 _m pr(essions rank is indicat$ by ! dress or its ornam5tations4 ,9 ! ,army & ,navy1 ! ,*ur*1 ! legal pr(ession1 su* po9ts are obvi\s4 ,we h _h occasion to deal ) academical co/ume1 & 9 ! knightly ord]s ! same holds good4 ,j z an und]graduate has a /uff g[n1 :ile a graduate may h a silk "o1 a ,proctor is giv5 velvet sleeves & ! ,*ancellor ( ! ,univ]sity an embroid]$ g[n & tra91 s1 = in/ance1 9 ! ord] ( ,knights ( ! ,ord] ( ,/4 ,john ( ,j]usalem1 ! ,knight ( ,grace has a /uff g[n1 ! ,knight ( ,ju/ice a silk "o1 :ile ! ,gr& ,prior is habit$ 9 velvet4 ,,xxxv ,,! ,,effect ,,( ,,clo!s ,,^u ,,! ,,individual ,,! ,,orig9 ,,( ,,/ays--,,tight ,,lac+ ,,no ,,new ,,?+--,,its ,,effects--,,mr4 ,,hea!r ,,bigg ,,on ,,! ,,ne$ ,,= ,,support--,,! ,,ideal ,,foot--,,skull ,,de=mities--,,padd+ ,we h already se5 7page #aaa7 t ! human =m may be directly mutilat$ 9 connection ) ! we>+ ( ornam5ts & 9 ord] to produce sc>s or tattoo m>ks :i* are consid]$ to be embelli%m5ts & (t5 9 a way take ! place ( clo!s1 9 s mu* z !y d away ) ! appe>ance ( nak$ness4 ,n[ we may consid] ! di/ortions :i* are actually caus$ by clo!s & b&ages4 ,!re are cases = :i*1 z a rule1 we h to look outside ! conf9es ( ,europe 9 :i* special contrivances are worn = a "t 9 ord] to p]man5tly alt] ! %ape ( "s "p ( ! body4 ,!n1 aga91 we meet among ! races :i* claim to be mo/ highly civiliz$ in/ances :i* are n "o :it less b>b>ic1 b 9 :i* "s article ( dress is int5d$ to cause or all[$ to produce di/ortions1 :i* satisfy ! dictates ( "s p>ticul> fa%ion4 ,x may be t an appe>ance ( elegance or sm>tness is aim$ at :i* may be ! natural attribute ( "s p]sons & ! envy ( o!rs1 or a false idea ( symmetry may lead to ! same ?+4 ,! idea ( alt]+ bodily con=mation is v anci5t1 b foll[+ our usual plan we w t\*1 fir/ ( all1 on ! mod]n examples ( ! cu/om be=e trac+ ! old] ones4 ,n v long ago1 & n = ! fir/ "t 9 hi/ory1 a great _m wom5 became imbu$ ) ! notion t !re 0 no?+ m desirable 9 ?is _w ?an a wasp-l wai/2 & !re are rum\rs1 n to say signs1 ev5 9 ! tw5tie? c5tury1 :5 x might be suppos$ t we 7 gett+ m s5sible1 t a simil> madness is aga9 to ov]take ! g5tl] sex4 ,n[ we may discuss ! app>atus :i* has be5 degrad$ into c>ry+ out ! pa9ful duty ( produc+ an att5uat$ figure4 ,! "n /ays indicates exactly ! orig9al int5tion ( ! clo?+ to :i* x is appli$2 b un=tunately some?+ m ?an m]e support has be5 s\ght aft] at v>i\s times s9ce ! classic p]iod to :i* ! beg9n+s ( /ays may be trac$4 ,! pair ( /ays :i* toge!r =m ! mod]n corset--sometimes ignorantly & by false analogy suppli$ ) an extra s--is :at is n[ us$ = purposes ( compression4 ,proximately ! idea is t ( improv+ ! figure1 z x is call$1 & ensur+ t x c be cov]$ ) g>m5ts ( a fa%ionable %ape4 ,! ultimate results are ab\t z bad z !y c be1 & x is n a "q ( op9ion 9 ?is case1 = ! evil effects c be easily demon/rat$4 ,sir ,william ,fl[]#ed ref]s to ! practice z be+ "o ( ! mo/ rem>kable ( all ! artificial de=mities produc$ by adh]5ts to a conv5tional /&>d1 9 defiance ( ! dictates ( ,nature & ( reason4 ,he po9ts out t 9 ! process ( de=m+ ! skull1 to :i* we %all allude lat]1 ! latt] be+ a solid case ) tol]ably uni=m walls1 its capacity rema9s ! same :atev] alt]ations may be made 9 ! %ape1 b 9 ! case ( ! body x is q ano!r matt]4 ,x c1 9 fact1 be well lik5$ to a cyl9d] ( fix$ l5g? :i* is clos$ above & bel[ by a framework ( bone1 & circul> compression mu/ actually dim9i% ! area :i* has to be occupi$ by "s ( ! mo/ vital organs4 ,he goes on to say t ! framework ( ! *e/ is a mo/ admirable & complex arrangem5t ( num]\s pieces ( solid bone & ela/ic c>tilage jo9$ toge!r 9 su* a mann] z to all[ ( expansion & contraction = ! purposes ( respiration--expansion & contraction :i*1 if a function s ess5tial to ! pres]vation ( life & heal? is to be p]=m$ 9 an effici5t mann]1 %\ld be p]fectly free & capable ( v>iation "u diff]5t circum/ances4 ,s1 inde$1 x has be5 all[$ to be 9 all p>ts ( ! _w & 9 all ages ) "o exception4 ,x 0 res]v$ = m$ival civiliz$ ,europe to h inv5t$ ! sy/em ( squeez+ toge!r1 r5d]+ immobile1 & actually de=m+ ! mo/ important "p ( ! human frame2 & ! cu/om has be5 h&$ d[n to1 & fl\ri%es 91 our day1 not)/&+ all our pr(ess$ admiration = ! models ( classical antiquity1 & our awak5$ att5tion to ! laws ( heal?4 ,! crusade aga9/ corsets is by no means conf9$ to ?is c\ntry2 ev5 ! educational au?orities 9 ,am]ica & on ! cont95t ( ,europe h dealt pretty dra/ically ) ! matt]4 ,x is said1 moreov]1 t ! ,que5 ( ,portugal has br\ght be=e ! ladies ( h] ,c\rt ! evils ( tight lac+1 by means ( radiographs4 ,!re h be5 o!r times :5 ev5 laws h be5 made ) reg>d to ! corset1 :i*1 x appe>s1 0 fir/ employ$ = a wrong purpose 9 m$ival times4 ,x is said ( ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,iii ( ,france t ! corset 0 no long] ! simple basqu9e t 0 in(f5sive en\gh at fir/4#ee ,! corps piqu :i* 0 endur$ by ! fair ladies ( ! p]iod 0 an in/rum5t ( torture4 ,a h>d solid m\ld into :i* ! we>] _h to be compress$1 !re to rema9 & suff] 9 spite ( ! spl9t]s ( wood t p5etrat$ ! fle%1 took ! sk9 (f ! wai/1 & made ! ribs ride "o ov] ! o!r4 ,montaigne & ,ambrose ,p> are witnesses1 & ! latt] mu/ h kn[n some?+ ab\t ! "q4 ,x is n1 p]haps1 surpris+ t ,*>les ,,ix & ,h5ry ,,iii br\ght 9 /r+5t laws on ! subject4 ,we are told#ef t ) ,ca!r9e de ,m$ici's asc5t to ! ?rone ! habit became compulsory4 ,%e gave h] subjects no *oice1 & said t all wom5 ( good bir? & bre$+ %\ld we> corsets :i* w\ld r$uce _! wai/s to ! abnormal size ( ?irte5 in*es4 ,9 our c\ntry on v>i\s occasions lac+ 0 c>ri$ to extremes1 z 9 ! "t ( ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,9 ,elizabe?'s "t1 ! =]unn] ( ! busks 0 n fa/5$ to ! /ays1 b consi/$ ( a piece ( c>v$ wood :i* 0 pu%$ d[n inside ! bodice4 7,see ,plate ,,xi47 ,"s ( ! out] bodices 9 ! times ( ! e>ly ,georges seem to be z h>d & unyield+ z if !y 7 int5d$ = arm\r4 ,t9 /ays 7 n unhe>d ( 9 ! days ( ! e>li] coloni/s 9 ,am]ica4 ,illu/ration3 ,,wood5 ,,/ay ,,busks4 ,,^! ,,incid5tally ,,%[ ,,survivals ,,( ,,primitive ,,ornam5t4 ,f ! ,reliqu>y1 by k9d p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,bembrose ,sons1 ,ltd4 ,,plate ,,xi4 ,! craze = tight lac+ once m made itself felt at ! beg9n+ ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 & n _m ye>s be=e ! end "o he>d f "t to "t ( ! cruelty t 0 practis$ at high-class s*ools = "y ladies1 :]e ! girls 7 made to sleep 9 specially tight & rigid corsets4 ,al?\gh !re is a t5d5cy to aboli% /ays1 x does n1 ( c\rse1 prove t on occasion !y may n be ( use4 ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg1 ! well-kn[n surgeon1 :o is a speciali/ 9 cases ( sp9al curvature1 & :o adopts me*anical means ( treatm5t1#eg is 9 a position to (f] an op9ion on ! use ( corsets1 z he uses special ones z precaution>y means ( support & :]e curvatures may ?reat51 z well z to be safegu>ds aga9/ relapse aft] ! me*anical treatm5t ( a curvature has be5 consummat$4 ,9 "o ( 8 books he has mu* to (f] 9 fav\r ( ! corset1 & at ! outset x may be well to say t ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg's rem>ks are ma9ly direct$ aga9/ ! views ( ! practition] :o1 f ! treatm5t t he advises1 is call$ a gymna/ic practition]1 & :o1 accord+ to ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg1 goes fur!r ?an attack+ matt]s ( treatm5t1 & 9 ord] to popul>ize 8 own practice endeav\rs to entw9e ) x revolutions t %all ext5d ev5 to ! simple/ g>m5ts4 ,= in/ance1 ! gymna/ic practition] ma9ta9s t corsets are detrim5tal to heal?4 ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg's op9ions practically are ^? ) :i* mo/ s5sible p w\ld entirely agree4 ,! argum5ts :i* he br+s =w>d 9 fav\r ( !m are n1 h[ev]1 v conclusive1 z we hope to %[4 ,corsets1 he says1 are int5d$ 9 _! "r & prop] use simply to /ay & support ! body 9 its natural %ape1 & n to m\ld x into funny =ms accord+ to ! vag>ies ( fa%ion4 ,! wom5 ( classic times did n use !m = ?is purpose4 ,on ! contr>y1 !y _h no reason to d s1 z _! fl[+ g>m5ts did n p]mit !m to display ! outl9es ( _! figures2 !y !re=e simply wore corsets because x _h be5 f\nd by c5turies ( exp]i5ce t !y 7 conducive to heal? & s]viceable 9 ex]tion4 ,8 description ( ! orig9al corset ( ,greece & ,rome w %[ to :at anci5t =m ( /ay ! mod]n corset may be trac$4 ,! arrangem5ts ( ! anci5ts consi/$ ( ?ree pieces1 & ^! 7 worn ei!r toge!r or sep>ately1 z requir$4 ,!y consi/$ ( support+ b&s worn r\nd ! body 9 a way v simil> to ! putties worn = support r\nd ! legs by ! pres5t-day soldi]y4 ,! ma9 & mo/ useful portion ( ! corset 0 a zone1 or lo9 b&4 ,!n !re 0 ! ?oracic b&1 or /rophion1 int5d$ to uphold ! brea/s & cons]ve ! figure4 ,&1 la/ly1 !re 0 ! wai/b&1 :i* fill$ up ! space betwe5 ! o!r two4 ,x is f ! conjunction ( ^! triple b&s t ! mod]n corset has be5 evolv$1 z x is worn by wom5 ( e class ?r\gh\t civiliz$ ,europe to-day4 ,:at 0 made be=e 9 ?ree pieces is n[ simply manufactur$ 9 "o4 ,n[ let u consid] ! reasons giv5 by ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg z to :y wom5 ( all dom9ant & civiliz$ races always we>1 & ) advantage h worn1 "s b9d] or corset2 & aga91 :y ! :ole hi/ory ( ! _w %[s t extrane\s support is b5eficial4 ,9 ! fir/ place1 ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg says t 9 primitive & aborig9al races t practically we> no clo!s1 ! girls may be p]fect 9 =m :5 !y arrive at _! full gr[?1 b t !y are1 z a rule1 hide\s objects ( disfigurem5t aft] _! fir/ *ild4 ,! inf]5ce is t civiliz$ wom5 reta9 _! beauty 9 lat] life ow+ to ! fact t !y h worn /ays4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! fact t ! native girls lose _! beauty mu/1 accord+ to ! argum5t1 be because !y h n worn /ays2 b surely ?is c be comp>$ ) ! fad+ ( a fl[] or its *ang+ col\r aft] f]tilization1 & is r due to ! abs5ce ( any conditions or k9d ( selection :i* w\ld t5d to pres]ve ! woman's y\?fulness4 ,besides1 we ne$ g no f>!r ?an our own c\ntry to f9d cases :]e m>ri$ wom5 gradually lose _! beauty1 & ! ,wel% & ,italian wom5 prov]bially age rapidly4 ,! we>+ ( belts by navvies :5 !y are do+ heavy "w is possibly a precaution>y measure aga9/ /ra91 b x does n ref] to ! race z a :ole1 & "o w\ld take x t :5 x is said t ,elijah girt 8 lo9s 9 ord] to run be=e ! *>iot ( ,ahab1 x simply means t he fa/5$ up 8 fl[+ g>m5ts4 ,to ! second "q z to hi/ory %[+ t extrane\s support is b5eficial1 ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg says t ! answ] is simple ev5 if ,d>w9ian4 ,he may claim t ! if saves him1 ?\gh un9t5tionally1 = 9 8 argum5t he seems to ignore ! ma9 pr9ciples ( evolution4 ,he says1 fir/ ( all1 t x might j z well be ask$ :y any clo?+ :atsoev] %\ld be f\nd requisite by civiliz$ mank9d4 ,he claims rightly1 & s f> he is 9 keep+ ) ,d>w9ism1 t man1 accord+ to 8 obvi\s me*anism & morphology1 is a creature built on ! quadrup$ patt]n4 ,! ^w is spelt quadrupl$1 ?\gh presumably ?is is a pr9t]'s error2 b he goes on to say t ?is build+ 0 done ) ! int5t t 8 body %\ld be horizontal in/ead ( v]tical4 ,( c\rse1 ! body ( ! orig9al quadrup$ 0 horizontal2 b 9 ! c\rse ( evolution su* *anges 7 made z enabl$ man to occupy an upright position4 ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg talks z if x 0 an int5tional act on ! "p ( man :5 he says t he manag$ to re> himself 9 a p]man5tly erect position1 & z he has *os5 ! upright position1 s he has to exp]i5ce "s ( ! p5alties atta*$ to x4 ,! /ate ( affairs is ?is3 man became p]fectly well fitt$ = an upright position1 & 8 int]nal organs 7 arrang$ q prop]ly = progress on two legs in/ead ( f\r1 al?\gh ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg claims to ! contr>y4 ,:at may be ! case is1 t natural selection no long] acts to keep man z p]fectly con/ruct$ z he 01 or to improve him1 & "s human be+s may ne$ support1 ow+ to weakness or ! undue developm5t ( _! bu/1 j z ^? ( u :o suff] f %ort sight & bad tee? take advantage ( eye-glasses & ! skill ( ! d5ti/4 ,we ?9k x h>dly "t yet to say t all wom5 ne$ /ays1 any m ?an t we all ne$ eye-glasses or %\ld be provid$ ) false tee? at a c]ta9 age4 ,summ+ up ! matt]1 :5 human be+s take up "w = :i* _! bodies 7 n specially evolv$1 or :5 !y wi% to d ?+s :i* at "o "t all human be+s c\ld d1 b :i*1 ?r\gh ! cessation ( ! action ( natural selection1 !y are n n[ able to d1 !n !y want help4 ,?is w\ld expla9 :y our soldi]s :5 m>*+ 9 ,s\? ,africa f\nd puttees s useful1 z ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg ma9ta9s4 ,! case ( dress br\ght =w>d by ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg is exactly a case 9 po9t4 ,we h se5 9 ! op5+ *apt]s ( ?is book t man has lo/ 8 hairy cov]+1 &1 s f> z cold climates are conc]n$1 we mu/ agree ) ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg t x has be5 f\nd by exp]i5ce t clo?+ is necess>y = heal?ful w>m?4 ,all ! same1 we %\ld l to see "s exp]im5ts tri$ to %[ :e!r ev5 n[ x might n be q possible to exi/ 9 ?is climate ) little or no artificial cov]+4 ,we d n agree at all ) ! /atem5t t z man has re>$ himself f f\r legs on to two1 s he has f\nd by simil> exp]i5ce t "s sort ( b&ag$ support is requir$ 9 ord] to assi/ an abdom9al me*anism t is inadequate = bip$ progression4 ,9 ord] to prove t ! gymna/ic practition] is wrong :5 he says t corsets are injuri\s to heal?1 ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg br+s =w>d ! results ( exp]im5ts made by ,pr(essors ,roy & ,adami1 :i* he says sci5tifically prove /ays to be di/9ctly b5eficial4 ,^! exp]im5ts 7 describ$ at ! ,briti% ,association ,meet+ 9 #ahhh1 "u ! title ( ,! ,physiological ,be>+ ( ,wai/-belts & ,/ays1 & ! effects ( ^! contrivances 7 tri$ n only ^u m51 b ^u animals4 ,x 0 %[n t a g5tle compression ( ! abdom5 caus$ a great] fl[ ( blood to o!r p>ts ( ! body1 & conduc$ 9 consequ5ce to an increase ( m5tal & muscul> activity4 ,! exp]im5t]s d n seem to h wait$ to see :e!r 9 ! c\rse ( "t ^! effects 7 or 7 n obta9$ at ! exp5se ( ! dige/ive organs1 b !y conclud$ t !y _h directly expla9$ ! b5eficial & ext5sive use ( "s =m or o!r ( wai/-belt by all nations t _h pass$ beyond ! /age ( absolute b>b>ity4 ,! !ory has be5 advanc$ t /ays are d]iv$ f swaddl+ clo!s1 & t ! cu/om has surviv$ 9 ! case ( wom5 alone1 = we may neglect ! occasional use ( su* g>m5ts by m5 9 ! pa/ at ! pres5t "t1 =1 judg+ f adv]tisem5ts 9 ! pap]s1 _! use is n conf9$ to ! fair sex4 ,!re seems1 h[ev]1 little evid5ce 9 support ( ?is !ory1 & inquiry f a lady :o has liv$ a long "t 9 ,pale/9e has elicit$ ! in=mation t :ile swaddl+ clo!s are /ill 9 use 9 ! ,holy ,l&1 /ays d n =m a "p ( native dress4 ,! o!r "p ( ! body :i* n[adays appe>s to be de=m$ to ! greate/ ext5t is ! foot4 ,x seems to be consid]$ absolutely necess>y1 if "o is to appe> elegant1 = "o's toes to be po9t$ 9 su* a way t ! apex ( ! angle is 9 ! middle ( ! foot in/ead ( on ! inn] side2 & al?\gh ! two po9ts are probably unconnect$1 we might "h m5tion ! idea t 9 a p]fect foot ! second toe ought to be long] ?an ! great toe4 ,?is w\ld make ! extreme end ( ! foot a little ne>] ! middle l9e1 & 9 ,art ! second toe is repres5t$ z be+ ! longe/ 9 accordance ) ! ,greek canon4 ,^! proportions 7 copi$ f ! ,egyptian repres5tations1 & ! orig9al is probably to be f\nd 9 ! negroes1 accord+ to ,sir ,william ,fl[]4 ,! latt] po9ts out t ! long] our big toe is1 ! fur!r we are remov$ f apes2 & he f\nd1 too1 t among/ hundr$s ( b>e & !re=e unde=m$ feet ( *ildr5 9 ,p]?%ire1 :i* he exam9$1 he 0 n able to f9d "o 9 :i* ! second toe 0 ! longe/4 ,^! *ildr5 w\ld1 ( c\rse1 belong to ! l[] classes1 & x w\ld be int]e/+ to "k :e!r ! same ?+ holds good 9 high] social circles :5 ! foot rema9s normal4 ,x may be well to rememb] t ,sir ,william ,fl[] 0 a surgeon1 = ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg1 :o tilts ) ! gymna/ic practition] once m on ! subject ( boots & /ock+s1 expresses some:at diff]5t ideas ^u ! "q4 ,he alludes to ! two classes ( p 9 ! ,briti% ,isles :o habitually disc>d boots & /ock+s--! fi%]-folk & factory girls 9 "s ( ! l>ge ,scot* cities4 ,he says t he sc>cely likes to be ungallant ab\t ! latt]1 b comm5ds ! adult feet ( bo? ( ^! classes to ! inspection ( ^? :o w\ld draft _! *ildr5 into ! b>e-foot$ brigade4 ,he cont9ues z foll[s3 ,! tru? is t ! feet ( ^? :o h be5 unboot$ till !y h rea*$ adult life are splay$ & spread1 l>ge-jo9t$1 & v g5]ally de=m$ f all approa* to ! ideal foot z x is depict$ by ! greate/ pa9t]s1 or modell$ by ! greate/ sculptors4 ,we h se5 t ! ideal foot ( ! sculptors is probably n a true ideal f an evolution>y po9t ( view1 & !re is no d\bt b t ! ideal foot w\ld be ! "o produc$ "u natural conditions 9 :i* we _c include boots & /ock+s4 ,we %\ld take x1 h[ev]1 t ! /ones ( ! sea%ore & ! floor ( a factory are n ! ideal surfaces on :i* to habitually tread4 ,!re is no d\bt b t ! de=mities caus$ by %oes are (t5 v great1 & ,sir ,william ,fl[] sums up ! matt] 9 ! foll[+ s5t5ces3--,! ,engli% "m or nurse :o ?ru/s ! t5d] feet ( a "y *ild into /iff1 unyield+1 po9t$ %oes or boots1 (t5 reg>dless ( ! ess5tial diff]5ce 9 =m ( "r & left at a "t :5 fre$om is especially ne$$ = _! prop] gr[? & developm5t1 is ! exact c\nt]p>t ( ! ,*9ook ,indian woman1 apply+ h] b&ages & bo>ds to ! opposite end ( h] baby's body1 only ) consid]ably less excuse2 = a di/ort$ head app>5tly less affects heal? & com=t ?an cramp$ & mis%ap5 feet1 & 0 also e/eem$ ( m vital importance to pref]m5t 9 ,*9ook society4 ,any "o :o recollects ! boots ( ! late ,"l ,palm]/on w be rem9d$ t a wide expanse ( %oe lea!r is 9 ?is c\ntry1 ev5 dur+ ! preval5ce ( an opposite fa%ion1 q compatible ) ! atta9m5t ( ! highe/ political & social em95ce4#eh ,aft] all1 x is g5]ally :at our eyes are accu/om$ to t we consid] to be "r & fitt+4 ,! broad-to$ %oes t 7 adopt$ 9 ! reign ( ,h5ry ,,viii look clumsy to u2 b s did ! pneumatic tyres ( bicycles aft] we _h got us$ to ! look ( ! n>r[ solid ones4 ,x is n s mu* ! we>+ ( boots ( c\rse1 b ! k9d ( boots t has to be consid]$4 ,! high heels ( %oes add to ! evil effects ( ! po9t$ toes1 & a copy ( a draw+ f an adv]tisem5t figur$ by ,sir ,william ,fl[] recalls /rongly ! /unt$ foot ( a ,*9ese woman :i* ! we>] ( ! %oe w\ld be "o ( ! fir/ probably to ana!matize4 ,?is br+s u to ! mal=mation :i* has be5 caus$ ?r\gh _m c5turies 9 a c\ntry t c claim a good deal ( civilization1 & is produc$ by special b&ages aft] a long & v pa9ful c\rse ( treatm5t4 ,!re is v little evid5ce ( alt]ation 9 ! =m ( ! head hav+ be5 practis$ 9 ?is c\ntry1 ?\gh "o or two skulls h be5 f\nd1 & !re is a tradition t ! cu/om prevail$ n v long ago 9 ,norfolk4 ,9 ,france1 h[ev]1 x 0 well kn[n until rec5t ye>s1 & ev5 x may n h n[ become ext9ct4 ,!re are pl5ty ( records 9 ! works ( e>ly writ]s ) reg>d to ! practice1 & "s ( ! ,nor?-,am]ican ,indians /ill foll[ ! fa%ion ( _! fa!rs4 ,! ,*9ook ,indians flatt5 ! skull betwe5 bo>ds s t !y get ! "n ( ,flat-heads1 & o!r tribes produce an elongat$ skull by con/ruct+ b&ages ( de] hide4 ,de=mation ( ! head seems to h little effect on ! free-liv+ ,am]ican ,indians1 b ! same /atem5t does n hold good among ,europeans4 ,accord+ to ! reports ( ,fr5* physicians1 !y h trac$ all k9ds ( tr\bles to ! practice4 ,if we h little evid5ce ( head-de=m+ 9 ?is c\ntry by means ( compression1 we meet occasionally ) prehi/oric skulls :i* h be5 trepann$1 & h _h ins]t$ into !m a small piece ( extrane\s bone4 ,x is curi\s t su* an op]ation c\ld h be5 successfully made :5 !re 7 probably no in/rum5ts ( metal ) :i* x c\ld be done1 & "o might well ask :at object c\ld possibly h be5 9 view1 especially z ! individual s treat$ _h met ) no accid5t t c\ld h r5d]$ ! op]ation necess>y4 ,x appe>s1 h[ev]1 t ! piece ( bone 0 probably t ( "s dead relative1 ! idea be+ t ! incorporation ( x 9 ! head ( ! "y man w\ld give him ! qualities ( ! *ief :o _h dep>t$4 ,x is ?is notion :i* probably l$ to cannibalism4 ,:5 a brave w>rior 0 sla91 8 conqu]or ?\ght t by eat+ a small piece ( him he might add 8 adv]s>y's pr[ess to 8 own1 & no d\bt :5 a respect$ relative di$ x 0 ?\ght t 8 good qualities w\ld pass to ^? :o ate a portion ( him4 ,besides ! alt]ations t h be5 p]man5tly made 9 ! %ape ( ! body1 !re are _m curi\s in/ances :]e clo!s !mselves h be5 utiliz$ = ! purpose ( app>5tly alt]+ its %ape4 ,we h se5 t ,pun*'s curi\s figure is due to a co/ume1 :ile ! /uff$ bree*es adopt$ 9 ! reign ( ,james ,i1 ! great f>?+ale ( ,elizabe?'s reign1 ! hoop$ petticoat ( ,que5 ,anne's1 & ! cr9ol9e ( ! n9ete5? c5tury are in/ances ( fa%ions t orig9at$ ) or )\t app>5t reasons4 ,j z ,mrs4 ,aria discov]$ :at %e t]ms ! ance/ress ( ! /raight-front$ specialit corset on a bas-relief ( a female figure f "o ( ! my/]i\s =e/ cities 9 ,s\? ,am]ica1 s ,mr4 ,rhead has rem9d$ u ( ! fe/al dress ( ,otaheite :i* ,capta9 ,cook figur$ 9 8 ,geography4 ,our gr&mo!rs 9 _! cr9ol9e may h look$ l walk+ hay-cocks2 b ! "y wom5 ( ,otaheite :o c>ry pres5ts f "o p]son ( rank to ano!r look z if !y 7 issu+ f an imm5se drum4 ,x is no?+ new to make up defici5cies ) padd+ t is int5d$ to deceive1 & :ile at "o "t our c\ntrywom5 may h made !mselves flat-*e/$ ) ! help ( lead5 weights1 "s1 judg+ f articles :i* we n[ see display$ 9 ! %ops1 are will+ to call to _! aid artificial contrivances :i* give ! appe>ance ( plumpness to _! bu/4 ,:5 speak+ ( padd+1 "o might recall ! fact t ! mo/ usual place 9 :i* x is to be f\nd--9 civilians' clo!s at lea/--is on ! %\ld]4 ,?is rem9ds u ( ! way 9 :i* sleeves 7 sometimes puff$ up above ! %\ld]4 ,! protub]ance ?us =m$1 ,dr4 ,mey] tells u1 0 orig9ally int5d$ to prev5t weapons f slipp+ (f :5 !y 7 c>ri$ ov] ! %\ld]4 ,! fa%ion has s9ce1 h[ev]1 be5 adopt$ 9 civilian co/ume bo? by m5 & by wom54 ,,xxxvi ,,fur!r ,,effects ,,( ,,clo!s ,,on ,,! ,,individual ,,m5tal ,,effects ,,( ,,diff]5t ,,clo!s--,,pref]5ces ,,( ,,girls ,,= ,,c]ta9 ,,articles ,,( ,,dress--,,movem5ts ,,t ,,dep5d ,,^u ,,! ,,pres5ce ,,or ,,abs5ce ,,( ,,clo!s ,putt+ on "o side ! special po9ts ( detrim5t :i* clo!s br+ ab\t ) reg>d to ! body1 we may turn to m g5]al effects4 ,our language is full ( prov]bial say+s z to ! way 9 :i* clo!s may give beauty1 & also z to h[ mu* we owe to f9e fea!rs & to our tailors4 ,q ap>t f ! results :i* clo!s h ^u o!r p1 !re are ! m5tal effects :i* are produc$ on ourselves4 ,t x is n1 p]haps1 com=t or discom=t altoge!r :i* causes our body to react on ! m9d1 is %[n by ! results ( "s inve/igations made by ,dr4 ,l\is ,w4 ,flaccus among ! s*oolgirls ( ,new ,york4#ei ,feel+s ( ligh!>t$ness are ! result ( filmy clo!s1 & "o girl ( eighte5 said t :5ev] %e _h on a g>m5t ( ?is consi/5cy %e always want$ to dance4 ,! pleasant m5tal effects ( gauzy /uffs & laces are said by ! inve/igator to be due n only to _! lightness1 b to ! m5tal associations ) :i* !y are connect$4 ,su* dresses z ^? :i* we h m5tion$ sugge/ "s gay social function4 ,aga91 j z ! putt+ on ( a smok+ jacket sugge/s relaxation to a man1 s does ! assum+ ( ev5+ dress imp>t ! idea t correct behavi\r is necess>y4 ,heavy clo!s br+ ab\t m5tal depression4 ,9 a l>ge1 heavy hat my spirits are l[1 says "o ( ! girls :o 7 int]rogat$1 & ,dr4 ,flaccus claims t ! mood may *ange ) ! hat1 :ile t he has evid5ce to g ^u w be se5 f ! foll[+ answ]s3 ,a broad hat makes me feel jolly2 ,if my hat is flat on my =ehead1 ,i feel depress$2 ,if ,i h a fancy hat on1 ,i am 9 a coquetti% mood2 or aga91 ,i feel bright] 9 a hat t rolls away f my face4 ,!n ! effect :i* c]ta9 surfaces h ^u v>i\s p]sons has to be tak5 into consid]ation :5 deal+ ) ?is aspect ( ! subject1 = clo!s are made ( v diff]5t mat]ials4 ,to t\* a blanket w set "s individuals' tee? on edge1 & an irritable mood may result :5 r\gh mat]ial rubs aga9/ ! sk94 ,aga91 :ile "o p]son feels *ills runn+ d[n h] back :5 %e t\*es velvet1 ano!r w delight to feel a velvety surface4 ,ano!r rem>kable ?+ :i* ,dr4 ,flaccus has br\ght be=e u is ! /rik+ diff]5ce betwe5 ! pref]5ces :i* girls h = c]ta9 articles ( clo?+4 ,mo/ ( ! girls to :om ! que/ions 7 address$ put %oes fir/2 gloves came v close1 !n neckwe>1 hats1 und]we>1 jewell]y1 & ribbons2 & ?\gh ?is may n fit 9 ) ! ideas ( ! humori/s on ! subject1 ! weakness = hats 0 %[n to be less ?an "o-?ird t = gloves4 ,speak+ ( ! effect t clo!s may h ^u ! action ( p1 we may recall ! way 9 :i* skirts & tr\s]s may give rise to diff]5t habits4 ,if "o drops any?+ into a boy's lap he in/9ctively br+s 8 knees toge!r to prev5t ! object ?r[n f fall+ betwe5 !m2 :]eas a girl w\ld ?r[ h] ?ighs ap>t 9 ord] to make a receptacle ) h] frock4 ,advantage has be5 tak5 ( ?is fact by ^? :o wi%$ to discov] :e!r a p]son ) :om !y 7 deal+ 0 a woman1 or a man masqu]ad+ 9 female attire4 ,m ?an "o noveli/ has enl>g$ on ?is !me1 & ,m>k ,twa9 has us$ x effectively 9 ! ,adv5tures ( ,huckleb]ry ,f9n4 ,! occasion is :5 ! h]o visits ,mrs4 ,judi? ,l(tus at ,/4 ,pet]sburg1 9 ord] to f9d out :at is go+ on ) reg>d to ! murd]4 ,mrs4 ,l(tus1 ^: suspicions 7 ar\s$1 got ! boy :o 0 dress$ up z a girl1 to ?read a ne$le1 to ?r[ a bit ( lead at a rat1 & hav+ ga9$ "s evid5ce f ^! two exp]im5ts1 %e tri$ a ?ird4 ,%e says1 ,keep y\r eye on ! rats2 y _h bett] h ! lead 9 y\r lap h&y4 ,huckleb]ry's /ory cont9ues3 ,s %e dropp$ ! lump into my lap j at t mom5t4 ,i clapp$ my legs toge!r on x1 & %e w5t on talk+1 b only ab\t a m9ute4 ,!n %e took (f ! hank 7he 0 hold+ "s y>n71 & look$ me /raight 9 ! face1 b v pleasant1 & said3 ,come1 n[--:at's y\r real "n8 ,:-:at1 mum8 ,:at's y\r real "n8 ,is x ,bill1 or ,tom1 or ,bob1 or :at is x8 ,,xxxvii ,,! ,,rise ,,& ,,fall ,,( ,,fa%ions ,,reasons ,,:y ,,fa%ions ,,are ,,foll[$--,,gay ,,clo!s ,,se5 ,,:5 ,,p]iods ,,( ,,depression ,,are ,,ov]--,,condemnation ,,( ,,fa%ions ,,by ,,! ,,cl]gy--,,quak]s--,,sumptu>y ,,laws--,,! ,,kill+ ,,( ,,fa%ions ,! rise & fall ( fa%ions is a matt] t affects e nation & practically e individual1 = savages are q z mu* h>ass$ & tortur$ by !m z any civiliz$ p are4 ,fa%ions are p]petuat$1 z ,h]b]t ,sp5c] has po9t$ out1 by imitation1 & f two motives :i* are widely div]g5t4 ,x may be prompt$ by rev]5ce = ! "o imitat$1 on ! "o h&1 or by a desire to ass]t equality ) him4 ,9 ! beg9n+1 no d\bt fa%ions arose ) an idea to improve ^u nature1 ?\gh notions z to ideals ( beauty mu/ h be5 hazy 9 _m cases4 ,fa%ions h be5 advanc$ z evid5ce 9 support ( ! prov]b t !re is no?+ new "u ! sun1 & ! way 9 :i* "s ( !m come r\nd aga9 goes a v long way to prove x 9 ! case ( clo!s4 ,luckily "s enormities seem to h di$ out1 b 9 ! light ( pa/ hi/ory we c nev] feel q safe1 & we nev] "k1 on ! o!r h&1 :]e "s slight *ange :i* 9 itself seems novel may n lead u to ridicul\s extremes4 ,( c\rse1 _m g>m5ts & /yles are importations f o!r c\ntries4 ,! pelisse came f ,p]sia at ! "t ( ! ,crusad]s1 j z ! kimono 0 br\ght 9 rec5t times f ,japan4 ,fads & peculi>ities & ev5 de=mities ( ,royalty1 z we saw 9 ! case ( ! p]uke1 h introduc$ fa%ions4 ,! cr9ol9e1 accord+ to all acc\nts1 0 fir/ devis$ to hide ! %ape ( a pr9cess4 ,p]haps no o!r contrivance has br\ght m nuisance 9 its tra9 or _h m ridicule p\r$ ^u x2 b x is only "o in/ance ( _m fa%ions t h be5 c>ri$ to excess4 ,x is true1 z we %all h occasion to m5tion1 t 9 e>li] times laws 7 enact$ to re/rict ! size ( ruffs & ! l5g? ( ! toes ( %oes1 b (t5 ) little effect1 & :5 %ape & size did n occupy att5tion1 ! co/l9ess ( ! g>m5t caus$ re/rictions to be made1 :ile ! cl]gy seem nev] to h ceas$ f inveigh+ aga9/ ! follies ( fa%ions4 ,9 ! twelf? c5tury ! devil 0 repres5t$ by an old illu/rator 9 ! co/ume ( a f9e lady ) ! long hang+ sleeves & tightly lac$ bodice ( ! "t4 ,a hundr$ ye>s lat] ,engli% prea*]s took exception to lac$ op5+s ?r\gh :i* ladies %[$ _! co/ly "u-l951 & dignifi$ !m ) ! "n ( gates ( hell4 ,9 ! tw5tie? c5tury m9i/]s 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates h wa/$ _! "t 9 scold+ ! lady memb]s ( _! congregations = we>+ fancy /ock+s4 ,sometimes1 on ! o!r h&1 ! cl]gy !mselves h laid !mselves op5 to criticism ) reg>d to ! gorge\sness ( _! app>el4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afh4--;,a ,m]veilleuse 7aft] ,a4 ,robida74 ,p]iods ( depression h be5 foll[$ by fa%ions ( ! gaye/4 ,we may recall ! times ( ,*>les ,,ii1 :5 ,engl& brea!d aga9 aft] ! civil w>s4 ,aft] ! ,fr5* ,revolution1 :5 ! reign ( t]ror 0 ov]1 ! ,m]veilleuses w5t back to ! dresses ( antiquity1 su* z ! ,a!nian co/ume & t ( ! ,lac$emonian girls1 ^: tunics 7 slit d[n ! sides f ! hips4 ,:5 ?is 0 n done ! skirts 7 loop$ up on ! left side above ! knee ) a cameo broo*4 7,see ,figure #afh47 ,"o writ] records a wag] 9 :i* a lady bett$ t h] dress1 includ+ tr9kets1 did n weigh two p\nds4 ,%e aft]w>ds retir$ & took (f ! dress1 :i* 0 weigh$1 & ! :ole co/ume turn$ ! scales at a little ov] a p\nd4 ,"o ( ^! dresses w5t by ! "n ( ! female savage1 & consi/$ ( a gauze *emise ov] p9k fle%+s1 ) gold5 g>t]s4 ,x is n surpris+ t su* co/umes1 l o!rs be=e1 br\ght d[n ^u !m ! condemnation ( ! ,*ur*1 & ! foll[+ bull1 dat$ at ,rome on ! #af? ,octob]1 #ahjj1 is repr9t$ f ,! ,times ( ,janu>y #bh?1 #ahja3-- ,! ,pope1 s long engag$ 9 r$uc+ ! ,gallican ,*ur* )9 ! ,ca?olic pale1 has n be5 neglig5t ( ! duty ( recall+ ! female =m )9 ! petticoat & ! h&k]*ief4 ,aft] speak+ 9 appropriate t]ms ( ! pres5t sc>city ( clo?+1 & ( ! s5sations x may excite ev5 9 ! )]$ bosom ( a monk1 & quot+ ! au?ority ( ,/4 ,clem5t ( ,alex&ria1 ,8 ,hol9ess /rictly enjo9s 8 (fic]s1 civil & ecclesia/ical1 to repress1 by f9e or corporal puni%m5t1 accord+ to ! circum/ances ( ! case1 ^! cry+ enormities4 ,he directs1 too1 t _! puni%m5t %\ld be ext5d$ to su* damsels z ?\gh at fir/ sight !y appe> prop]ly attir$1 are nev]!less deck$ 9 transp>5t robes1 & ) a voluptu\s & magnific5t attire display !mselves 9 v s$uctive & tempt+ attitudes4 ,moreov]1 fa!rs1 husb&s1 heads ( families1 :o weakly or neglig5tly p]mit _! wives1 daught]s1 s]vants1 etc41 to trespass aga9/ ^! rules1 %all n escape ) impunity4 ,also1 all taylors1 hab]da%]s1 mill9]s & m5-mill9]s1 hairdress]s1 & o!rs :o contribute to ^! enormities ( dress %all 9 no wise pass unpuni%$4 ,! bull goes on to /ate t all prie/s1 confessors1 ov]se]s1 *ur*w>d5s1 & o!rs %all 9 no wise admit su* del9qu5ts to ! ,holy ,supp]2 t !y %all n all[ wom5 improp]ly dress$ to ent] ! *ur*1 & if !y come !y %all be driv5 out1 & if !y resi/1 ! high] p[]s %all be requir$ to l5d _! aid4 ,x is said t a ,russian nobleman :o 0 us$ to judge ! position ( ladies by ! am\nt ( furs & clo!s t !y wore1 on see+ an ,engli% lady 9 a co/ume ( ! m]veilleuse /yle (f]$ h] money 9 ! belief t %e 0 a begg>4 ,fa%ions may h a special significance1 z 9 ! case ( bell-bottom tr\s]s ( ! co/]mong]1 = x is said t by ! cut ( ^! g>m5ts ! progress ( ! we>]'s c\rt%ip c be trac$4 ,:5 he fir/ walks out1 ! bottoms ( 8 tr\s]s are ( su* an ample size t only ! toes ( 8 boots c be se54 ,z matt]s proce$ & ! w$d+ comes into view1 ! tr\s]s assume m mod]ate dim5sions bel[ ! knee1 & :5 at la/ ! man is m>ri$ he is cont5t ) a bell ( q mode/ proportions1 ) :at a writ] 9 "o ( our comic pap]s describes z an almo/ total abs5ce ( sauc9ess 9 ! cut ( ! g>m5t4 ,! l5g?s to :i* wom5 w g 9 _! desire to appe> 9 ! fa%ion1 ev5 if !y are n1 is %[n by ! bus9ess :i* a lady 9 ,new ,york is said to h f\nd$4 ,accord+ to all acc\nts1 %e deals 9 no?+ b disc>d$ ,p>is wai/b&s--t is to say1 ^? :i* be> ! names ( well-kn[n dressmak]s4 ,wom5 9 pl5ty 9 ,new ,york w buy ^! little /rips ( silk 9 ord] to h !m /it*$ into _! own dresses1 to give _! fri5ds ! impression t _! g>m5ts 7 made 9 ! ,fr5* capital4 ,laws int5d$ = ! good ( trade h br\ght 9 fa%ions1 z 9 ! case ( ! /atute cap4 ,! v objections made by religi\s sects su* z ! ,puritans & ,quak]s1 :o h dep>t$ f extravagance & sup]fluity1 h giv5 rise to new fa%ions ( pla9ness4 ,ev5 ,quak] ladies mu/ h %[n _! love ( dress1 = at a meet+ 9 #agbf ! foll[+ message 0 s5t by "s ( ! /rong]-m9d$ ( !m to _! fell[-wom53-- ,z fir/1 t immode/ fa%ion ( hoop$ petticoats or ! imitation1 ei!r by some?+ put into _! petticoats to make !m set full1 or any o!r imitation :atev]1 :i* we take to be b a bran* spr++ f ! same corrupt root ( pride4 ,& also t none ( our ffri5ds accu/om !mselves to we> _! g[ns ) sup]flu\s folds beh9d1 b pla9 & dec5t1 nor g )\t aprons1 nor to we> sup]flu\s ga!rs or plaits 9 _! caps or p9n]s1 nor to we> _! heads dre/ high beh9d2 nei!r to cut or lay _! hair on _! =eheads or temples4 ,& t ffri5ds be c>eful to avoid we>+ /rip$ %oes or r$ & :ite heel$ %oes or clogs or %oes trimm$ ) gaudy col\rs4 ,& also t no ffri5ds use t irrev]5t practice ( tak+ snuff or h&+ a snuff-box "o to ! o!r 9 meet+4 ,also t ffri5ds avoid ! unnecess>y use ( fans 9 meet+1 le/ x direct ! m9d f ! m inw>d & spiritual ex]cises :i* all ought to be conc]n$ 94 ,& also t ffri5ds d n accu/om !mselves to g ) b>e brea/s or b>e necks4 ,p]haps 9 a m9or way sup]/itions also h t5d$ to keep up fa%ions4 ,at a w$d+1 = in/ance1 x is always said t a bride %\ld we> ,some?+ old & some?+ new1 ,some?+ borr[$ & some?+ blue4 ,! enactm5ts1 h[ev]1 :i* 7 direct$ aga9/ excess 9 dress d n seem to h always be5 s successful4 ,! "p :i* ! law has play$ ) reg>d to dress 9 our own c\ntry has be5 v consid]able1 & x may be ( int]e/ to consid] briefly "o or two ( ! s-call$ sumptu>y laws4 ,9 ,edw>d ,,iii's reign ! p 7 ord]$ to dress accord+ to _! /ation1 & ^? :o 7 n ( high rank 7 =bidd5 to use exp5sive furs & ornam5ts4 ,^! ord]s 7 s neglect$ t ,h5ry ,,iv revis$ & /r5g!n$ !m4 ,sla%$ sleeves at ! "t ( ,edw>d ,,iv 7 prohibit$ to yeom5 & any "o bel[ _! rank4 ,legislation 0 also introduc$ to less5 ! prepo/]\s l5g? to :i* ! toes ( %oes _h gr[n1 = x 0 enact$ t n ev5 ! g5tlem5 %\ld h !m ( a great] l5g? ?an two in*es4 ,! ,record] ( ,*e/] %[s ! foll[+ ord] made by ,h5ry ,,viii3 ,to di/+ui% ! head-dresses ( m>ri$ wom5 f unm>ri$1 no m>ri$ woman to we> :ite or o!r col\r$ caps2 & no woman to we> any hat1 unless %e rides or goes abroad into ! c\ntry 7except sick or ag$ p]sons71 on pa9 ( #cs4 #d;d4 ,ano!r law am\nt$ to a tax on p]sons :o dress$ elegantly1 = ^? :o w\ld n keep a horse & arm\r ready = ! w>s 7 f9$ heavily if !y or _! wives wore f9e clo!s or ornam5ts4 ,x is probable1 too1 t ,h5ry ,,viii's (fic]s took c>e to collect ! f9es4 ,m>y br\ght 9 a law aga9/ ! use ( silk1 & a little lat] on ! great ruffs claim$ att5tion1 = 9 #aefb x 0 ord]$ t no m ?an a y>d & a half ( k]sey %\ld be us$ 9 mak+ a ruff4 ,james ,i repeal$ all ! sumptu>y laws1 ?\gh we h se5 t he & 8 successors occupi$ !mselves some:at ) ! dress ( ! cl]gy4 ,9 ,scotl&1 aft] ! ris+ ( #agde1 an ,act 0 pass$ =bidd+ ! we>+ ( t>tan z "p ( ,highl& dress1 "u ! p5alty ( six mon?s' imprisonm5t = ! fir/ (f5ce & transportation beyond ! seas = sev5 ye>s = ! second4 ,no ,highl&] c\ld receive ! b5efit ( ! ,act ( ,indemnity )\t fir/ tak+ ! foll[+ oa?3 ,i1 ,a4,b41 d swe>1 & z ,i %all answ] to ,god at ! great day ( judgem5t1 ,i h n1 nor %all h1 9 my possession any gun1 sword1 pi/ol1 or arm :atsoev]1 & nev] use t>tan1 plaid1 or any "p ( ! ,highl& g>b2 & if ,i d s1 may ,i be curs$ 9 my und]tak+s1 family1 & prop]ty1--may ,i nev] see my wife & *ildr51 fa!r1 "m1 or relations1--may ,i be kill$ 9 battle z a c[>d1 & lie )\t ,*ri/ian burial1 9 a /range l&1 f> f ! graves ( my =efa!rs & k9dr$2 may all ?is come across me if ,i break my oa?4 ,?is sev]e & h>% ,act caus$ great discont5t1 & 0 repeal$ 9 #aggb4 ,z %[+ ! h9drances caus$ to trade by "s ( ! peculi> regulations1 we f9d t 9 #aefe ! ,record] ( ,london describes an int]view :i* he _h ) civic tailors1 :o 7 puzzl$ z to :e!r !y %\ld l9e a slop hose1 n cut 9 panes1 ) a l9+ ( cotton /it*$ to ! slop ov] & besydes ! l95 l9+ /raight to ! leg4 ,! ,record]1 on consid]+ ! words ( ! proclamation :i* _h caus$ ! tr\ble1 gave x z 8 op9ion t !y c\ld n2 b ! tailors1 ?\gh !y w5t away satisfi$1 came back to say t _! cu/om]s _h gone to o!r tailors outside ! ,city1 :o made _! clo!s = !m 9 ! way t 0 fir/ sugge/$4 ,x 0 ?is contretemps :i* caus$ ! ,record] to write to a high] legal au?ority4 ,n[adays clo!s & ! law h little to d ) "o ano!r1 ?\gh occasionally ladies' dresses ab\t :i* !re is a dispute are s]i\sly tri$ on 9 c\rt1 ! legal lum9>ies mean:ile mak+ a /udi$ pret5ce ( ignorance ) reg>d to ! g>m5ts4 ,?\gh !re are no /atutes to curb mod]n fa%ions1 yet we are rem9d$ ( ! rules t h _h to be made 9 c]ta9 !atres on acc\nt ( ! ov]:elm+ size ( ! mat9e hat4 ,al?\gh ! law does n seem to h be5 able to *ange ! fa%ions to a v great ext5t1 !y h sometimes be5 kill$ sudd5ly4 ,9 ! days ( public executions1 crim9als sometimes elect$ to we> fa%ionable g>m5ts1 & 9 consequ5ce ! dem& = !m ceas$4 ,sometimes1 aga91 ^? :o 7 int]e/$ 9 ! suppression ( ! fa%ion p]suad$ ! doom$ man or woman to we> a p>ticul> dress1 & a judge has be5 kn[n to compass ! same end by ord]+ ! hangman :o (ficiat$ to deck himself 9 ! objectionable g>m5t4 ,! we>+ ( nightg[ns 9 ! /reet by ladies 0 /opp$ ow+ to a woman be+ execut$ 9 h] b$g[n4 ,! use ( yell[ />* _h its dea?-bl[ :5 ! hangman appe>$ 9 orange coll> & cuffs4 ,black sat9 dresses w5t out ( fa%ion because ,mrs4 ,mann+ 0 hung :5 we>+ "o4 ,n[1 h[ev]1 z !re are no public executions1 !re is n ?is opportunity ( gett+ rid ( obnoxi\s /yles1 & society ought to look ab\t = ano!r means to repress !m4 ,,xxxviii ,,dress ,,re=m ,,clo!s ,,to ,,be ,,avoid$--,,ne$ ,,= ,,w>m] ,,g>m5ts--,,rational ,,dress ,,= ,,wom5 ,x is evid5t f :at we h said ab\t ! effect ( clo!s ^u ! body1 t !re is ample opportunity = improvem5t 9 our co/ume z reg>ds its %ape & ! me?ods 9 :i* x is worn4 ,we h already said also1 :5 speak+ ( col\r1 t1 9 ! case ( m5 at any rate1 x might (t5 be m picturesque & bright]4 ,!re are sev]al societies ^: aim x is to br+ ab\t improvem5ts4 ,! ,rational ,dress ,league has g5]al objects 9 view1 & x also keeps 9 m9d ! special "o ( introduc+ bifurcat$ g>m5ts = wom54 ,!re is also ! ,heal?y & ,arti/ic ,dress ,union :i* seems to h g5]al objects4 ,education is ne$$ 9 ord] t k ( ! evil results ( wrongly %ap$ %oes & tight /ays may be kn[n1 & :at is m1 su* tra9+ z w enable t /r5g? ( m9d to be acquir$ :i* w prev5t ! com+ g5]ation f be+ sway$ by fooli% fa%ions4 ,! orig9 ( ^! x is difficult to trace1 b ! pione]s ( !m1 :e!r self-c5tr$ co/umi]s or will+ victims1 ought to be puni%$ 9 "s way4 ,!re are po9ts to be borne 9 m9d 9 connection ) g>m5ts :i* h n yet be5 consid]$1 & !y cause o!rwise un(f5d+ clo!s to d h>m4 ,!re is no d\bt b t ! weight ( "o's dress %\ld be susp5d$ f ! %\ld]s1 ?\gh ! great majority ( wom5 hang mu* ( _! clo!s f _! wai/s4 ,a good deal ( ! weight c\ld easily be tak5 (f ?is "p ( ! body by ! fa/5+ ( skirts & "u g>m5ts to bodices1 or by ! use ( %\ld]-/raps & ! introduction ( tunics4 ,dr4 ,cantlie#fj has v graphically %[n ! common features ( a mod]n family1 & he has giv5 a picture 7see ,figure #afi7 ( a gr\p consi/+ ( ! av]age-siz$ "m1 ! tall] & l>g]-fram$ daught]1 & ! insuffici5tly clad boy ( poor physique4 ,?is au?or says t ! sailor suit worn at ! age ( two & a half or ?ree ye>s is a rec5t innovation1 & ! r puny "y boy ( to-day came 9 ) ! *ange4 ,dr4 ,cantlie has e/imat$ t1 except 9 v hot wea!r1 *ildr5 %\ld h a p\nd ( clo?+ = e /one !y weigh1 = ! "o great secret ( r5d]+ *ildr5 heal?y is to keep !m w>m4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 a girl t weighs ?ree /one really we>s clo!s t weigh ?ree p\nds2 b "o ( ! small boys ( ! same weight1 9 a sailor suit1 we>s clo!s t only weigh ab\t half z mu* z 8 si/]'s4 ,dr4 ,cantlie also objects to %ort jackets :i* d n cov] ! lo9s1 & says t ! public s*ool t w introduce ! ,norfolk jacket 9 ! place ( ! ,eton w ?rive at ! exp5se ( its neighb\rs4 ,high coll>s worn by y\?s keep ! head at ! wrong angle1 & also p]petuate ! de=mity ( ! jaw :i* is caus$ by brea?+ ?r\gh ! m\?4 ,!y also prev5t ! %\ld]s f be+ squ>$ 9 ! attempt to get rid ( r\nd %\ld]s4 ,dr4 ,cantlie urges a return to ! brace worn by our fa!rs1 & /ill occasionally se51 9 :i* ! /raps are n unit$4 ,x is impossible = any "o we>+ jo9$ braces to /& erect ) ! %\ld]s squ>$1 = !y press on ! neck & cause ! we>] to poke 8 head =w>d4 ,dr4 ,cantlie1 h[ev]1 hopes t ! difficulties 9 ! way ( obta9+ sep>ate braces w n lead to ! adoption ( ! ela/ic belt1 = ! only place :]e ?is c\ld be worn )\t bad effects is bel[ ! haun* bones1 & 9 ord9>y dress ?is w\ld br+ x bel[ ! wai/coat4 ,x w be f\nd also t ! use ( belts by lab\r]s br+s evils 9 its tra9 :i* 7 n m5tion$ by ,mr4 ,hea!r ,bigg1 :5 speak+ ( ! advantages ( gird+ up ! lo9s4 7,see page #cbi47 ,no acc\nt ( dress & its developm5ts w\ld be complete )\t a ref]5ce to ,mrs4 ,bloom] & ! g>m5ts :i* n[ be> h] "n1 & are emblematical ( rational co/ume4 ,t wom5 h no absolute claim to petticoats z _! own special dress has be5 made q cle>1 & x is equally evid5t t 9 _m places !y we> tr\s]s z a matt] ( c\rse4 ,/ill1 9 ?is c\ntry !re seems to be a root$ objection on ! "p ( ! majority to d(f+ skirts1 ?\gh ?is seems1 h[ev]1 to be gr[+ less day by day1 9 spite ( ! _m reasons :i* cause ! fair sex to cl+ to petticoats4 ,z we h f\nd be=e1 g>m5ts :i* fall to ! gr\nd give dignity1 & wom5 sacrifice _! dignity ) difficulty4 ,yet1 z ne$ h>dly be po9t$ out1 m5 d n we> dress+-g[ns :5 !y are jump+1 nor fur-trimm$ mantles :5 !y g to bus9ess4 ,dresses ) tra9s c\ld be kept = c]emonial occasions1 or :5 !re is no?+ mu* to be done1 or aga91 we might add1 :5 !re is little du/ to be rais$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #afi4--;,a mod]n family1 consi/+ ( ! av]age-siz$ "m1 ! tall] daught]1 & ! puny boy 7f a draw+ by ,miss ,audrey ,watson 9 ,physical ,effici5cy1 by ,dr4 ,cantlie1 by k9d p]mission ( ,messrs4 ,putnam's ,sons74 ,bact]iology has %[n u t ! long skirt dissem9ates g]ms z x trails along ! gr\nd2 9 fact1 x /irs !m up = o!r p to brea!1 & ! culprit h]self c>ries (f z h] fair %>e a l>ge quantity :i* settles on h] dress4 ,9 ?is way ! g]ms ( disease are c>ri$ home to ! dwell+-h\se4 ,9 ^! days also1 :5 wom5 ev5 jump on & (f motor omnibuses be=e !y are at a /&-/ill1 x is evid5t t long frocks are objectionable & dang]\s4 ,:5 lady g>d5]s 7 fir/ employ$ at ,kew ,g>d5s1 x 0 f\nd t _! skirts got 9 ! way1 & 7 liable to damage ! plants4 ,! ,director ord]$ t ! girls %\ld we> a suitable co/ume1 & !y adopt$ divid$ g>m5ts1 ?\gh x mu/ be said t !y cov]$ !m to "s ext5t ) an apron4 ,9 rid+-dress ( c\rse ladies we> tr\s]s "u _! habits :5 !y use a side saddle1 al?\gh x has be5 consid]$ "r ( rec5t ye>s = !m to ride a/ride1 & f "t to "t we he> t x is be+ done4 ,9 ! "t ( ,/eph5 & ( ,edw>d ,,iii wom5 rode a/ride1 & ! ladies 9 ,mexico & o!r p>ts ( ,am]ica regul>ly d s at ! pres5t "t4 ,*auc] describ$ ,! ,wife ( ,ba? z we>+ on h] feet a paire ( spurries %>pe4 ,f ?is we may judge t %e also adopt$ a cross saddle1 & z a matt] ( fact 9 ! ,elesm]e ,,mss4 we f9d a picture ( h]1 %[+ t %e rode a/ride1 & 0 dress$ 9 a curi\s g>m5t l a divid$ bag4 ,on ! ,cont95t1 ladies :o g %oot+ v (t5 dress l _! husb&s1 & a ye> or two ago ! ,am]ican newspap]s 7 full ( acc\nts ( a lady :o imitat$ ! rid+ co/ume ( a hunt+ man to ! smalle/ detail4 ,apropos ( ?is1 ,! ,field#fa told an amus+ /ory ( an ,engli% lady :o 9 a measure un9t5tionally =e/all$ our ,am]ican c\s9s1 = aft] %e _h _h ! be/ "p ( h] habit c>ri$ away by "s aggressive brambles1 %e 0 se5 scudd+ aft] h] horse 9 a pair ( real top boots4 ,divid$ g>m5ts only appe> unfem99e because we are unaccu/om$ to see !m on ladies1 & x is no secret t !y are worn to a v great ext5t "u skirts4 ,d\btless !re may be "s to :om ! v idea ( su* a ?+ is abhorr5t1 & possibly !re are /ill w>drobes l ^? ( a good lady m5tion$ by ,miss ,alice ,morse ,e>le#fb 9 h] book on ! ,co/ume ( ,colonial ,times4 ,%e 0 ! wife ( a respectable & well-to-d ,dut* settl] 9 ! ,new ,ne!rl&s1 & h] "n 0 ,vr\5tje ,ides ,/(fels51 & %e left beh9d h] 9 #afda1 a gold hoop r+1 a silv] m$al & *a91 & a silv] und]girdle to hang keys on2 a damask furr$ jacket1 two black camlet jackets1 two d\blets1 "o iron gray1 ! o!r black2 a blue1 a /eel-gray l9$ petticoat1 & a black co>se camlet-l9$ petticoat2 two black skirts1 a new bodice1 two :ite wai/coats1 "o ( ,h>lem /uff2 a little black ve/ ) two sleeves1 a pair ( damask sleeves1 a r$di% m\rn+ g[n1 n l952 f\r pair patt5s1 "o ( ,spani% lea!r2 a purple apron & f\r blue aprons1 n9ete5 cambric caps & f\r l95 ones2 a fur cap trimm$ ) beav]2 n9e l95 h&k]*iefs trimm$ ) lace1 two pair ( old /ock+s1 & ?ree %ifts4 ,"o dispos$ to be critical might note ! some:at scanty proportion ( und]clo?+ 9 ?is w>drobe1 & z ,ides's husb& swore 'by 8 manly tro?' t ! li/ ( h] possessions 0 a true & complete "o1 we are =c$ to believe t x 0 inde$ all ! und]clo?+ %e possess$4 ,x seems1 h[ev]1 z we h said be=e1 t ! actual ugl9ess ( _m ( ! s-call$ bloom] co/umes :i* 7 9 vogue a few ye>s ago1 did mu* to keep back progress 9 ! direction ( _! adoption4 ,x seems z if wom5 7 fright5$1 z x 71 to g ! :ole hog1 & in/ead ( we>+ neat knick]bock]s !y _h !m exce$+ly baggy & inelegant1 or adopt$ a k9d ( hybrid co/ume1 half bloom]s & half skirt4 ,let u see :at ! t5d5cy n[ is ) reg>d to a rational dress = wom54 ,mrs4 ,bloom] _h a skirt j bel[ ! knees1 & tr\s]s ga!r$ 9 at ! ankles4 ,! mod]n bloom]s come only to ! knee1 b really1 z ,dr4 ,b]n>d ,o',connor says :5 writ+ 9 ! ,gazette publi%$ by ! ,rational ,dress ,league1#fc !y are made too full4 ,dr4 ,o',connor recomm5ds = active ex]cise1 su* z cycl+1 some?+ l a sailor's jacket & sailor's tr\s]s1 b ! latt] %\ld end & be ga!r$ 9 at ! knees4 ,9 addition !re %\ld be long tight /ock+s1 & ,dr4 ,o',connor adds t tights ?r\gh\t w\ld be pref]able to ! ord9>y bloom]s4 ,x w\ld seem1 h[ev]1 t ?is dress = g5]al use might be improv$ z reg>ds bo? =m & elegance1 & t a long coat or tunic1 rea*+ ne>ly to ! knees1 ) fairly tight knick]bock]s1 is ! rational dress t is mo/ to be comm5d$ = wom54 ,,conclusion ,by way ( end+1 we w\ld aga9 po9t out t ! acc\nt :i* we h giv5 ( survivals 9 dress & _! hi/ory1 %[s t !y 9 _! developm5t are gov]n$ by ! same laws z ^? :i* act on ! bodies & organs ( liv+ creatures1 & we hope t :at we h ga!r$ toge!r may be tak5 z a small contribution to ! prop] /udy ( mank9d1 :i* we h be5 told times out ( numb] is no?+ m nor less ?an man4 ,,bibliography ,! small numb]s giv5 9 ! text correspond ) ^? pr9t$ "h4 ,,no4 ,,page #a4 ,! ,orig9 ( ,species1 by ,*>les ,d>w94 7,fir/ edition publi%$ #ahei7 #b #b4 ,developm5t 9 ,dress1 by ,george ,h4 ,d>w94 ,macmillan's ,magaz9e1 ,septemb]1 #ahgb1 page #daj #c #c4 ,pi!can?ropus erectus1 e9e ,m5s*5aehnli*e ,ueb]gangs=m aus ,java1 by ,eug4 ,dubois1 ,batavia1 #ahid #g #d4 ,j\rnal dur+ ! voyage ( ,h4,m4,s4 ,beagle1 by ,*>les ,d>w94 ,m9]va ,libr>y1 #ahhi1 page #aed #aa #e4 ,! ,indu/rial ,arts ( ,d5m>k1 by ,j4 ,j4 ,a4 ,worsaae4 #ahhb1 page #dh #ah #f4 ,see ,numb] #b1 page #dab #cj #g4 ,notice ( ,lecture giv5 by ,mr4 ,allan ,poe ,newcombe1 9 ! ,s&wi* ,isl&s4 ,quot$ f ! ,honolulu ,comm]cial ,adv]tis] 9 ,! ,engli% ,me*anic1 ,no4 #aicd #di #h4 ,see ,numb] #f #eh #i4 ,! ,human ,bea/ ( ,burd51 by ,otis ,t4 ,mason4 ,smi?sonian ,report ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates ,national ,museum1 #ahhg1 page #bdf #aaj #aj4 ,an?ropology1 by ,edw>d ,b4 ,tylor4 #ahib1 page #bcf #aaa #aa4 ,! ,briti% ,lake ,dwell+s ne> ,gla/onbury4 #ahif1 page #ac #aag #ab4 ,! ,gem ,cutt]'s ,craft1 by ,leopold ,cl>emont4 #aijf1 #abc #ac4 pages #ge & #hg #abd #ad4 ,"s ,sugge/ions z to ! ,orig9 ( ! ,p5annul> #ae4 ,broo*1 by ,edw>d ,lovett4 ,! ,reliqu>y1 ,vol4 ,x1 #aijd1 page #ae #abe #af4 ,races ( ,man1 by ,osc> ,pes*el4 ,engli% ,translation1 #ahhi1 page #agd #acf #ag4 ,! ,cyclopdia ( ! ,briti% ,co/umes1 f ! ,metropolitan ,repository ( ,fa%ions4 #ahbf1 page #aif #ade #ah4 ,a lett] 9 ,! ,morn+ ,po/ ( ,novemb] #ab?1 #ahig1 f ,messrs4 ,&r ,co4 #aec #ai4 ,engli% ,co/ume1 pa9t$ & describ$ by ,dion ,clayton ,cal?rop4 #aijf1 page #acj #aef #bj4 ,article on ,cockades 9 ,! ,sket* = ,m>* #i?1 #ahih #aeh #ba4 ,see ,numb] #ai #aei #bb4 ,co/ume f ,monum5tal ,brasses1 by ,h]b]t ,druitt4 #aijf #afe #bc4 ,rational ,dress v4 ,indu/rialism1 ,! ,rational ,dress ,gazette1 ,no4 #hh1 by ,dr4 ,alice ,vick]y1 page #cef #afe #bd4 ,%oe-?r[+ at ,w$d+s1 by ,james ,e4 ,crombie1 ,folk ,lore1 ,vol4 ,,vi 7#ahie71 page #beh #agf #be4 ,ecclesia/ical ,ve/m5ts1 _! ,developm5t & ,hi/ory1 by ,r4 ,a4 ,s4 ,macali/]4 #ahif1 page #adj #ahe #bf4 ,ve/i>ium ,*ri/ianium3 ! ,orig9 & ,gradual ,developm5t ( ! ,dress ( ! ,holy ,m9i/ry 9 ! ,*ur*1 by ! ,rev4 ,:>ton ,d4 ,m>riott4 #ahfa1 page #dh #ahh #bg4 ,see ,numb] #be1 page #ba #ahi #bh4 ,a lett] 9 ,! ,gu>dian1 by ,g4 ,c4 ,c\lton1 ,augu/1 #aijg #aid #bi4 ,pa$ag4 ,lib4 iii41 page #cjj #bje #cj4 ,see ,numb] #bb1 page #abb #baj #ca4 ,college ,caps & ,doctors' ,hats1 by ,pr(essor ,e4 ,c4 ,cl>k4 ,ar*ological ,j\rnal1 ,vol4 ,,lxi4 #ahid1 page #cf #bac #cb4 ,see ,numb] #bb1 page #bbd #baf #cc4 ,! ,sacr+ ( ! ,engli% ,k+s1 by ,j4 ,wickham ,legg4 ,ar*ological ,j\rnal1 ,vol4 ,,xli4 #ahid1 page #ce #bba #cd4 ,hi/ory ( ! ,k+'s ,body ,gu>d ( ! ,yeom5 ( ! ,gu>d1 by ,colonel ,sir ,reg9ald ,h5nell4 #aijd1 plate fac+ page #cb #bbe ,uni=ms ( our ,fight+ ,=ces1 ,regim5tal ,survivals #ce4 & ,peculi>ities1 by ,r4 ,caton ,woodville4 ,cassell's #cf4 ,magaz9e1 #aijf1 page #ebd2 & ,peculi>ities ( ,briti% ,army ,dress1 by ,walt] ,wood4 ,pall ,mall ,magaz9e1 ,vol4 ,,xi4 #ahig1 page #ebg #bch #cg4 ,ye/] ,ye>1 by ,a4 ,robida1 ,engli% translation1 page #hc #bec #ch4 ,a ,lecture giv5 by ,mr4 ,george ,heppel be=e ! ,hamm]smi? ,lit]>y & ,sci5tific ,society #bec #ci4 ,naples 9 #ahhh1 by ,eu/ace ,neville ,rolffe #bed #dj4 ,notes by a ,naturali/ on ,h4,m4,s4 ,*all5g]1 by ,pr(essor ,moseley #bgb #da4 ,see ,numb] #dj1 page #dbc #bgc #db4 ,co/ume 9 ,engl&1 by ,f4 ,w4 ,fairholt4 ,revis$ ,edition1 #ahhe1 ,vol4 ,,ii1 page #cjc #bgh #dc4 ,! ,:ole ,/ock ( a ,coquette1 by ,hel5 ,c4 ,gordon4 ,engli% ,illu/rat$ ,magaz9e1 ,febru>y1 #aija1 page #dea #bgi #dd4 ,co/ume3 ,fanciful1 ,hi/orical1 & ,!atrical1 by ,mrs4 ,aria4 #aijf1 page #aii #bha #de4 ,curiosities ( ,lit]ature1 by ,disraeli4 ,vol4 ,i1 page #ahf #bhc #df4 ,see ,numb] #ai1 page #bj #bhg #dg4 ,see ,numb] #db1 page #bdj #bhi #dh4 ,sugge/$ ,moori% ,orig9 ( c]ta9 ,amulets 9 use 9 ,great ,brita91 by ,dr4 ,pl[right4 ,! ,reliqu>y1 ,vol4 ,,xii1 #aijf1 page #ajf #bic #di4 ,horse ,brasses1 by ,l9a ,eck5/e94 ,! ,reliqu>y1 ,vol4 ,,xii1 #aijf1 page #bea #bic #ej4 ,animal ,artisans1 by ,c4 ,j4 ,corni%4 #aijf1 page #bea #cjj #ea4 ,article by ,mr4 ,yoxall 9 ,! ,j\rnal ( ,gipsy ,lore1 new s]ies1 ,vol4 ,i1 "p ,i1 #aijg #cjf #eb4 ,article by ,mr4 ,j4 ,*evasse4 ,ev5+ ,news1 ,april #e?1 #aijg #caf #ec4 ,article 9 ,! ,daily ,mail1 ,septemb] #d?1 #aijg #cag #ed4 ,essays on ,museums & o!r subjects connect$ ) ,natural ,hi/ory1 by ,sir ,william ,fl[]4 #ahih1 page #cej #cbd #ee4 ,see ,numb] #cg1 page #ia #cbe #ef4 ,! ,hi/ory ( ! ,corset1 by ,g]ald9e ,vane & ,f4 ,gl5 ,walk]4 ,lady's ,realm ,summ] ,numb]1 #aija #cbf #eg4 ,sp9al ,curvatures1 by ,hea!r ,bigg4 #aije #cbf #eh4 ,see ,numb] #ed1 page #cdg #cce #ei4 ,article 9 ,! ,morn+ ,lead] ( ,april #ag?1 #aijf #cci #fj4 ,physical ,effici5cy1 by ,james ,cantlie4 #aijf #cee #fa4 ,lead]ette 9 ,! ,field1 ,augu/ #bi?1 #aijb1 page #deb #cei #fb4 ,co/ume ( ,colonial ,times1 by ,alice ,morse ,e>le1 page #bh #cei #fc4 ,:y ,won't ,!y ,alt] ,x8 by ,b]n>d ,o',connor1 ,rational ,dress ,gazette1 ,no4 #hg1 page #ceb #cfa ,,index ,,note4--,! numb]s 9 heavy type ref] to ! pages on :i* figures w be f\nd4 ,abbesses1 co/ume (1 #aih ,ab]gav5ny1 ! ,m>quis (1 we>s badges1 #ia ,academical dress1 #bjh -- hoods1 #baj ,a*ievem5ts1 /yles (1 #hg ,acrobat1 dress (1 #bhf -- tights (1 #bhf -- trunk hose (1 #bhf ,admiral1 uni=m (1 worn by coxswa9s at ,eton on ! ,f\r? ( ,june1 #aga ,africa1 ! ,we/ ,coa/ (1 little clo?+ worn on1 #h ,aggries1 #aac ,agilb]t1 ,bi%op ( ,p>is1 r+ (1 #aad ,aiglets1 #ajj ,aiguillettes1 #aja1 #aja -- ,mr4 ,caton ,woodville on1 #bdj -- ( aides-de-camp1 #bdj -- -- footm51 #ada1 #ada1 #bdj -- -- ,h\sehold ,cavalry1 #bdj -- -- a ,knight ( ! ,ba?1 #bca -- -- -- ,knight ( ,/4 ,mi*ael & ,/4 ,george1 #bca ,ailette1 #hd ,albe1 #aih1 #aii -- ( ,james ,,ii1 #bba -- orig9ally a secul> g>m5t1 #ahi -- replac$ by surplice1 #ahe ,alhambra1 #bic ,alm%\ses1 co/umes (1 #agj ,almuce1 #aih1 #aii -- =]unn] ( ! tippet1 #bab ,ambassadors1 cockade ( ,dani%1 #afj -- -- -- ,engli%1 #afj -- -- -- ,=eign1 #afj -- -- -- ,fr5*1 #afj ,am]ican1 dress ( !1 #cah ,ame?y/1 suppos$ p[]s ( !1 #abd ,amice1 #bjj1 #bba ,amulet1 arr[-head1 #bif ,amulets buri$ ) ! head ( anci5t ,egyptians1 #abb -- cresc5t-%ap$1 #bic -- he>t-%ap$1 #bie1 #bif -- worn by ,egyptian *ildr51 #abc ,&aman ,isl&]s1 pa9t+ ! body among1 #bgf ,&r1 ,messrs41 ,co41 on cockades1 #aec ,anglo-,saxon1 b&ag$ /ock+ (1 #fg1 #fg ,animal actors1 clo!s (1 #cja ,animals1 col\r (1 9 connection ) c]emonials1 #cjc -- curi\s v>iations (1 produc$ "u dome/ication1 #cjb -- spott$ :5 "y1 #id -- mutilation (1 #cjb ,anklets1 #i ,anne1 apron ( ,que51 #aej -- ,consort ( ,james ,i1 glove (1 #ih1 #ii ,antiquities1 ,museum (1 ,cop5hag51 #agh ,app>el ( *asuble call$ an orphrey1 #aif -- on albe1 possibly rema9s ( clavi1 #aic ,app5dix1 v]mi=m1 #c ,apron1 #adi -- ( b>ge-woman1 milk-woman1 & hospital nurse1 #aej -- -- bi%op1 a ve/ige ( ! cassock1 #bjj -- -- h\semaid1 #adi -- -- ,judy1 #bfc1 #bfc -- -- masons1 #bcb -- -- nuns1 #bjb -- -- ,que5 ,anne1 #aej ,aprons1 tig] sk91 ( ,leice/]%ire ,regim5t1 #bdi ,arab wom51 #abb -- -- ideas ( mode/y1 #bjg ,arabs use folds ( robes z pockets1 #aaj ,ar*]s1 ,scotti%1 coats (1 #bbf ,aria1 ,mrs41 on ! ance/ress ( ! /raight-front$ specialit corset1 #ccg -- -- on ! unwritt5 laws t rule ! we>+ ( a mask1 #bha ,armlets conf]r$ on soldi]s1 #aad -- ne$ = cool+1 9 "s climates1 #aad ,armorial be>+s on ladies' dresses1 #hd1 #he ,arm\r1 #hc -- a developm5t ( dress1 #ab -- ( *>g]s1 #bib ,arms1 coat (1 #hc -- ( ,engl&1 #hf -- -- s*ools & colleges1 #ij -- -- ,?omas ,becket1 #aih ,arran murd] case1 #agh ,arr[-head amulets1 #bif ,arr[-heads1 fl9t1 z p5dants1 #abc ,arts1 g[n ( ma/] (1 #baj -- hood ( ba*elor (1 #bab ,atella1 celebrat$ = ,italian f>ces1 #bed ,a?letic clubs1 p>ti-col\r$ dress (1 #cac ,aurelian1 di/ribution ( or>ia by1 #aib ,au/ria1 ,emp]or (1 #bdd ,au/rian1 dress ( !1 #cah ,axe = kill+ w\nd$ horses1 #bdb ,ayahs1 nose-r+s (1 #aaa ,babylon1 f+]-r+s 91 #aad ,baby's glove )\t f+]s1 #id1 #ie ,ba*elor ( ,arts1 hood (1 #bab ,badge & cre/1 diff]5ce betwe51 #ij -- broad arr[1 #ia -- ( ,black ,pr9ce1 #hh -- -- ,edw>d ,,iii1 #ia -- -- ! port]s ( ! ,inn] ,temple1 #ia ,badges1 h]$it>y1 #ij -- signs d]iv$ f royal1 #ia -- regim5tal1 #bdc1 #bde -- ( ,gl\ce/]%ire regim5t1 #bde -- -- private firem51 #ia ,badges ( ! ,yeom5 ( ! ,gu>d1 #bbd1 #bbd -- -- ,wat]m51 #ia -- worn by ! ,m>quis ( ,ab]gav5ny1 #ia ,bag-wig1 ve/ige ( !1 #acc1 #acd1 #adc1 #adc1 #bbh1 #bbi ,baildon1 ,mr4 ,paley1 on new g>m5ts put ov] old1 #adh -- -- -- -- ! coif1 #baf ,baldric1 #ajf -- mod]n use (1 #ajf -- ornam5t$ ) bells1 #ajh1 #ajh ,ballrooms1 b>e necks 91 #ad ,b&1 black on arm z m\rn+1 #ahb -- *91 #bjb1 #bjc -- hat1 #eb ,b&ag$ /ock+s ( ,anglo-,saxons1 #fg ,b&ages1 leg1 #ff1 #ff1 #fg ,b&box1 #df1 #dg ,b&ole]1 on baldric1 #ajh ,b&s1 #dd1 #de -- ( b>ri/]s1 #dd -- -- blue-coat boys1 #dd1 #de -- -- *ori/]s at ,jesus ,college1 ,cambridge1 #de1 #de -- -- ,jan ,/e51 #df1 #df -- -- ,john ,pym1 #df1 #df -- -- ,milton1 #df -- -- small boys1 #dg1 #dg -- -- ! legal pr(ession1 #bai -- -- ,w9*e/] s*ol>s1 #afi -- on a lady's nightg[n1 #bhh1 #bhi -- worn ) a black ,g5eva g[n1 #dd1 #ahe ,bantams1 boot$1 #cjc -- frizzl$1 #cjc ,baptism1 ve/m5ts us$ at1 #afd ,b>b>ians wore tr\s]s1 #gg1 #gh ,b>ge wom51 apron (1 #aej2 ,plate ,,viii fac+ page #aej -- -- co/ume (1 #aaj -- -- sun-bonnet (1 #fa2 ,plate ,,viii fac+ page #aej ,b>me-clo? 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( ,june at ,eton1 #aga ,b[s inside ladies' hats1 #eg1 #eh -- ( silk ribbon inside hat1 #ed1 #ee ,boy cat*+ an object 9 8 lap1 #cda ,boys1 blue-coat1 #afg -- col\r pref]5ces (1 #cjg -- dress$ z soldi]s1 #afc -- petticoats (1 #afe ,brace 9 :i* ! /raps are n unit$1 #cef ,bracelets1 #i -- ne$ to be cool$ 9 "s climates1 #aad ,br&5burg1 ,albrect von1 ) two palls1 #aig ,br&on1 ,john1 brass to1 #ch ,brasses1 #ch1 ,plate ,,iv1 #hf1 #hf1 #bcd1 #bcd -- *rysome1 #afd ,brats1 #cjj ,brea/ clo? ( nun1 #bjb1 #bjc -- plate ( horse1 amulets on1 #bid ,brea/s1 b>e1 9 ,anci5t ,egypt1 #gd1 #ge -- -- 9 ,korea1 #ge1 #ge -- -- 9 ! "t ( ,james ,i1 #gf ,bree*es1 knee1 #gi -- ( ,"l ,d>nley1 #bhf -- orig9 ( ! ^w1 #caa -- petticoat1 ( sailors1 #beb -- plu%1 #adj1 #ada -- /uff$1 #ccg -- ,v5etian1 ( pantaloon1 #bhd ,bridesmaids1 orig9 ( pres5ts made to1 by bridegroom1 #age ,bri/ol1 ,r$ ,maid ,s*ool (1 #afh ,broad arr[ badge1 #ia ,bronze ,age *iefta9s1 dress (1 #ah1 #ai -- -- p wore de]sk9 cloaks reta9+ horns1 #aag -- p9s1 #aje ,broo*1 #abb -- safety-p9 l an ,etruscan1 #ajb1 #ajc -- ! buckle1 a1 )\t hasp1 #abe ,broo*es1 p9 r+1 #abe -- to fa/5 tunic1 #ag1 #ag ,buckle1 #abe ,bulg>ia1 %oe money 91 #agg ,burd51 primitive me?od ( c>ry+ a1 #ajf1 #ajg ,busbies1 c>icatures (1 #bdg1 #bdh ,busby1 #bch -- developm5t (1 #ei -- ( ,rifle ,brigade1 #bdb -- orig9 ( !1 ,sir ,george ,d>w9 on1 #eh1 #ei -- r$ flap on1 #ei1 #ei ,busk9s1 #aie ,bu/1 padd+ us$ to improve !1 #cch ,but*]'s blue bl\se1 #cbj ,butt]man1 :ite clo!s (1 #cbj ,button1 #aah -- cov]$ ) crape1 #bdc -- ,mr4 ,p4 ,w4 ,reynolds on ! survival ( a1 #bdh ,buttonholes1 exagg]at$ on uni=ms1 #dj -- knot*$1 #adf -- lac$1 #adf -- on ! backs ( coats1 #bg1 #bg1 #bh1 #bh ,buttons1 #bd1 #bdh -- antiquity (1 #abj -- z *ronicles1 #be -- done up diff]5tly by m5 & wom51 #ba1 #bc -- horizontal r[ (1 on sleeve1 #cf1 #cf -- mean+less1 on ladies' dresses1 #abj -- num]\s1 on sleeve ( und]ve/1 #ch2 ,plate ,,iv1 fac+ page #ch -- ( brass on ,dut* skeleton dress1 #ade1 #ade -- -- ,legion ( ,hon\r1 #aeh -- -- man's coat on "r side1 #bj1 #bj -- -- page boys1 #add1 #ade -- -- woman's coat on left side1 #bj1 #ba -- on coats ( ,gr5adi] ,gu>ds1 #bi -- -- cuffs1 #ce1 #ce -- -- ov]coats ( ,commissionaires1 #cj -- -- po/ilion's jackets1 #ch -- -- sleeves ( cl]gy1 #cf -- -- ! back ( coats1 #bf1 #bf1 #bg1 #bh1 #bi1 #ca1 #cb1 #cc1 #cd -- -- ! back ( tramway driv]'s coats1 #cj1 #ca -- problematical1 #ae ,buttons replac$ by knobs 9 ! ,ea/1 #bj -- v]tical r[ on sleeve1 #cg ,cal?rop1 ,mr41 on survivals ( ! *ap]on1 #aeh -- -- -- ! co/ume ( ,h>lequ91 #bhc -- -- -- -- evolution ( ! cockade1 #aef -- -- -- -- orig9 ( ! cockade1 #aei ,camels1 c[ry %ells on ! trapp+s (1 #big1 #bii ,cam]on ,erra*t t>tan1 #bdb -- t>tan1 #bdb ,can>ies1 yell[1 #cjc ,cane ( drill s]geant1 #bda ,canes1 be-ribbon$1 #abd -- tassell$1 #abe ,cannibalism1 probable orig9 (1 #ccg ,cant]bury ,ca!dral1 %ield1 helmet1 & surcoat ( ,black ,pr9ce 91 #hg1 #hh1 #hi ,cantlie1 ,dr41 on %ort jackets1 #cef -- -- -- ! effect ( insuffici5t clo?+1 #cee1 #ceg -- -- -- -- use ( belts1 #cef ,cap1 college1 #dg1 #afi1 #bab1 #bad -- ,hung>ian1 #bch -- judge's s5t5ce1 #bag -- l9e ( ,lanc]s1 #bda -- liv]y1 #adf -- ( ,beefeat]s1 #afh -- -- dignity1 ecclesia/ical1 #bac -- -- h\semaid1 #adi -- -- ,hung>ian peasant1 #ei1 #ei -- -- nuns1 #bja1 #bjc1 #bjd -- -- ! ,lanc]s1 a ,poli% head-dress1 #bci -- ,scot*1 /ream]s (1 #ec1 #ed -- /atute1 #afh1 #cdh -- ,tudor flat1 #bad ,cape1 comb9$ ) hood1 #aef1 #aeg ,caps n to be worn by m>ri$ wom51 #cej ,c>ds1 play+1 %[ ,tudor dresses1 #bca ,c>ol9es1 haircombs ( ,we/1 #aah ,cases ( brass = wait]s' buttons1 #add ,cassock1 #bjj -- ( ,b5$ict9es1 #aih -- once g5]ally worn1 #ahf ,casula1 =]unn] ( ! *asuble1 #aib ,cat] cap1 #bab ,cattle1 hornless1 #cjc ,cavalryman1 mod]n1 comp>$ ) ,cromwell's ,ironsides1 #bcg1 #bcg ,cave m51 draw+s (1 #h1 #i1 #aj -- -- pa9t+ ( ! body by1 #bgj -- -- wore ornam5ts b no clo?+1 #h ,c]emony1 primitive dress worn on occasions (1 #e1 #ace ,*aco ( ,highl& ,light ,infantry1 #bda -- -- ,scotti% ,rifles1 #bda ,*a9 mail1 #bcc1 #bcd1 #bcd ,*a9s = ! neck 9 ,ri*>d ,,ii's "t1 #aac -- ( ,mayors1 orig9 (1 #aac ,*ancellor ( a ,univ]sity1 robes ( a1 #baj ,*apel keep] at ,well+ton ,b>racks1 top hat (1 #bdh ,*ap]on1 #aeb -- developm5t (1 #aef1 #aeg1 #aeg -- ( ,ri*>d ,,ii's "t1 #aeg -- survival (1 #bbh -- ve/ige on g[ns ( ,city ,liv]y ,companies1 #bca -- -- -- mantles ( knights1 #aeh1 #bcj ,*aplet ( fl[]s us$ aft] baptism1 #afd ,*>les ,i regulates cl]ical co/ume1 #ahe -- ,,ii1 =mation ( ,gu>ds by1 #bdf ,*asuble1 #aic1 #aid -- casula1 ! =]unn] (1 #aib ,*auffeurs' cockades1 #afj ,*ecks1 #caa ,*emise1 #bhh -- gauze1 ( ,m]veilleuses1 #cdf ,*evasse1 ,mr41 on individuality %[n by clo!s1 #caf ,*ildr5 c>ri$ on ! left arm1 #bb -- dress$ l _! p>5ts1 #afb -- suck+ ! left brea/1 #bd ,*im]e1 #aii ,*impanzee1 hair (1 #f ,*9a1 pa9t$ pa/ebo>d figures burnt at fun]als 91 #bgd -- puppet-%[ 91 #bei -- ! use ( pa9t by wom5 91 #bge ,*9 b&1 #bja1 #bjb1 #bjc ,*9ese wom51 /unt$ foot (1 #cce ,*9ook ,indians1 de=m+ ! heads ( *ildr51 #cce ,*iton1 #ahg ,*ok]1 #bjj ,*ori/]s at ,jesus ,college1 ,cambridge1 b&s (1 #de1 #de ,*rism clo?1 #afd ,*ri/ians1 dress ( anci5t1 #ahg -- e>ly1 wore ! same co/ume at wor%ip z at home1 #ahi ,*ri/'s ,hospital1 #afg ,*rysalis1 #afc ,*rysolite z a detector ( poison1 #abd ,*rysome1 #afd -- brasses1 #afd ,*ulos 9 bull fight1 r$ rag (1 #cjf ,*ur*es1 ,go?ic1 comp>$ ) h5n9-l head-dress1 #ej1 #ea ,clans1 t>tans ( ,scot*1 #cab -- ) sev]al t>tans1 #cab ,cl>emont1 ,mr41 on opals & bad luck1 #abd ,cl>k1 ,pr(essor ,e4 ,c41 on college caps1 #bac ,clavi1 #aia ,clem5t1 ,/41 on special dress = wor%ip1 #bje ,cl]gy1 adoption ( ve/m5ts by ,engli% ,high ,*ur*1 #aib -- black habit (1 #cjh -- buttons on sleeves (1 #cf -- condemnation ( dress by1 #cdd -- criticiz$ = gorge\s app>el1 #cde -- 9 ,holl&1 dresses (1 #bjj -- we> academical hood ov] surplice1 #aii1 #bab ,cloaks1 de] sk91 ( ,bronze ,age p1 reta9+ horns1 #aag ,clock1 mean+ a gusset1 #fh1 #fh -- orig9 (1 #fh ,clocks ( cl[ns1 #bfi ,clo?1 brea/1 #bjb1 #bjc -- *rism1 #afd -- pi$1 #cac -- p>ti-col\r$1 #cac ,clo!s1 adopt$ = /hetic reasons1 #ad -- -- -- reasons ( coquetry1 #ad -- adoption (1 = ornam5tation1 #h -- -- -- -- reasons ( mode/y1 #h -- -- -- -- w>m?1 #h -- disp5s$ ) on c]emonial occasions1 #acf -- di/ortions caus$ by1 #cbb -- effect ^u action1 #cda -- -- (1 ^u ! outsid]1 #cae -- ev]yday1 worn at night1 #bhg -- fir/ worn by wom51 #ab -- 9 _! developm5t subject to ! same laws t act ^u ! bodies ( animals1 #cfb -- made f ! b>k ( trees1 #aa -- m5tal effect (1 #cci -- m9imum (1 worn at sports1 #f -- n necess>ily worn 9 cold climates1 #aa -- -- worn at night1 #bhg -- ( animal actors1 #cja -- -- dolls1 #acg -- -- monkeys1 #cja -- -- ,pun*1 orig9 (1 #beg -- repres5t$ among animals1 #bia -- ,sunday1 #bje -- swaddl+1 #afc -- ! pr9ciples ( evolution appli$ to1 #a -- us$ to alt] ! %ape ( ! body1 #ccg -- useful *>act]s always reta9$1 #ae -- :y worn1 #h -- worn at executions1 become unfa%ionable1 #cec 7,see also "u ! head+s ( ,co/ume & ,dress7 ,clo?+1 n worn by cave m51 #h -- pref]5ces ( girls = diff]5t articles (1 #cdj1 #cda ,cl[n1 #bhc -- clocks (1 #bfi ,cl[ns1 pa9t+ (1 lik5$ to t once 9 vogue 9 ,*9a & ,japan1 #bgf -- pa9t ( face (1 #bfi ,clubb$ hair1 #acd ,coa*man1 coat (1 #adb1 #adb -- ,"l ,mayor's1 wig-bag (1 #adc1 #adc -- orig9 ( dress1 #aci -- r$ coat ( royal1 #bce -- wig (1 #acb1 #adb1 #adb ,coa/gu>d1 rev]s (1 button$ back1 #ci ,coat1 blue 9 sixte5? c5tury1 #afh -- buff1 #bce -- developm5t ( ! mod]n1 #ae -- evolv$ f ! %awl1 #af -- lapels1 nicks 91 #da1 #da1 #db -- pat*$1 ( h>lequ91 #bhc -- p\t]1 #ada1 #ada -- r$1 a be/1 #bce -- -- orig9 (1 #bdi -- -- surviv$ = a long "t 9 ,cornwall1 #bce -- skirts button$ back = rid+1 #cc -- swall[-tail1 evolution (1 #cc1 #cd ,coats at ,h>r[1 #afi -- -- ,we/m9/]1 #afi -- ( arms1 #hc -- -- ,scotti% ,ar*]s1 #bbf ,coats1 wat]pro( (1 lambs1 #cjj ,cobbett1 criticisms on ,quak]s1 #aai ,cock ( a hat1 #fa ,cockade1 #fa1 #aeb1 #aeb -- black1 #aec -- b[ ( ribbon on1 #aef -- evolution (1 #aec1 #aef1 #aeg -- = m\rn+1 #aed1 #aed1 #aei -- jagg$ edges (1 #aeh -- mat]ial (1 #aed -- ( ,*elsea p5sion]s1 #aee1 #aef -- -- ,dani% ambassadors1 #afj -- -- ,fr5* ambassadors1 #afj -- -- ( v>i\s col\rs1 #aeh -- reg5t1 #aee1 #aef1 #aei -- royal1 #aed1 #aee1 #aee1 #aei -- treble1 #aeb1 #aef ,cockades1 n "u ! jurisdiction ( ,h]alds' ,college or ,"l ,*amb]la91 #aec -- ( =eign ambassadors1 #afj -- -- *auffeurs1 #afj -- ^? entitl$ to use1 #aec1 #aei -- worn by g5tlem51 #aeb ,cock+1 #bjj ,c(f9s1 ,bronze ,age1 #ah ,coif ( ,s]jeant-at-law1 #baf -- ,ord] ( !1 #bae -- ve/ige (1 #bae1 #bag ,co91 cu/om ( break+1 ^u engagem5t1 #aae ,cold/ream ,regim5t1 motto (1 #bdf ,coll>1 broad lace1 at ,eton1 #afi -- silv] worn by additional drumm]1 #bdd ,coll>s1 high1 keep ! head at a wrong angle1 #cef -- metal ( ,padaung wom51 #aad2 ,plate ,,vi1 fac+ page #aad -- ( ,c\rt u%]s & v]g]s1 #bah -- -- ladies' mantles /&+ up1 #dh -- -- nuns1 #bjb -- worn by pet animals1 #bih ,colobium s9donis1 #bba ,colonial1 dress ( !1 #cai ,col\r1 crav+ =1 %[n by ! gorge\s dress ( ,masons1 #cjh -- -- -- -- -- gre5 sc>fs ( ! ,=e/]s1 #cjh -- -- -- -- -- pageants1 #cjf -- ( academical dress1 #cji ,col\rs1 #aib -- gay uni=ms come "u ! category ( c\rt%ip1 #bej -- h]aldic1 d]iv$ f flags1 /ill worn1 #cjh -- h\se1 #aga -- ( anci5t draw+s due to caprice ( arti/s1 #aca -- -- ,naval uni=m1 #bea -- -- regim5ts1 #cji ,columb9e1 ballet dress (1 #bhe ,comb z an ornam5t1 #aag1 #aah ,combs1 hair1 #aah1 #aah -- loom1 ! orig9 ( ! ornam5tal comb1 #aag1 #aah ,comb9ation g>m5ts ( boil] clean]s1 #cbj -- -- -- ,normans1 #cbj ,coombe ,hill ,s*ool1 ,we/]ham1 dress worn by girls at1 #agb1 #agb ,commissionaires1 buttons on ov]coats (1 #cj ,companies1 ,liv]y1 robes (1 #ach ,complexions1 false1 ( ,roman ladies1 #bgh ,convicts' dress1 #ia ,cope1 #aig1 #aii -- ( fifte5? c5tury1 #bab ,corni%1 ,mr4 ,c4 ,j41 on animals' clo!s1 #cjj ,corps piqu1 ,montaigne & ,ambrose ,p> on ! suff]+ caus$ by !1 #cbe ,corroboree1 pa9t us$ at a1 #bgb ,corset1 misspell+ ( ! ^w1 #cbc -- ( ,greece1 #cbh -- -- ,rome1 #cbh ,corsets1 crusade aga9/1 #cbe ,cosmetics us$ by ,roman ladies1 #bgh ,co/]mong]s1 dress (1 #cai -- tr\s]s (1 %[ progress ( we>]'s c\rt%ip1 #cdg ,co/ume1 cl]ical1 regulat$ by ,*>les ,i1 #ahe -- connect$ ) religion1 #ahd -- ecclesia/ical1 simil> to civil 9 e>ly times1 #ahh -- ( b>ge-wom51 #aaj -- -- ! cl[n1 ,elizabe?an1 #bfi1 #bgj -- -- dolls1 #bfg -- -- milk-wom51 #aaj -- -- nuns & abbesses resembl$ t ( wid[s1 #aih -- -- s]vants'1 d]iv$ f t ( ma/]s1 #aci -- indicat+ ! pr(ession ( ! we>]1 #caf ,co/umes adopt$ 9 girls' s*ools1 #aga -- ( hospitals = p5sion]s1 #agj -- ugl9ess ( bloom]s1 #ha1 #cfj 7,see also "u ! head+s ( ,clo!s & ,dress7 ,c\lton1 ,mr4 ,g4 ,c41 on ! evolution ( ! maniple f a pocket-h&k]*ief1 #aid ,c\ri] bags c>ri$ on a baldric1 #ajf1 #ajg ,c\rt dress1 mi/akes made 91 #bbg -- u%]s1 coll>s (1 #bah ,cov5try1 ,lady1 dea? due to pa9t+ ! face1 #bgi ,c[boy's long hair1 #abg ,c[s1 clo?+ (1 #cjj -- ra9pro( jackets (1 #cjj ,cradle ( ,am]ican ,indian papoose1 #afd ,cranm]1 hat (1 #bad ,cresc5t z an amulet among ! ,romans1 #bic -- made by jo9+ two bo>s' tusks1 #bid -- worn on a special /rap by ,g]man horses1 #bie ,cre/ & badge1 diff]5ce betwe51 #ij -- -- surcoat ( ,h5ry ,duke ( ,lanca/]1 #hf1 #hf -- on helmet1 #hc -- -- signet r+1 #he -- worn ^u cap ( ,"l ,mayor's po/ilion1 #ib1 #ib ,creel c>ri$ on a baldric1 #ajf ,cr9ol9e1 #ccg -- devis$ to hide ! %ape ( a pr9cess1 #cdd -- ( ! "y wom5 ( ,otaheite1 #cch ,cr(t ,s*ool1 ,betley1 dress worn by girls at1 #agc1 #agc ,crombie1 ,mr4 ,james1 on sup]/itions connect$ ) w$d+s1 #agf ,crook1 %eph]d's1 #aie ,crosi]1 #bba ,cross ( nuns1 #bjb -- old] ?an ,*ri/ianity1 #abb ,cross-belt ( ,rifle ,brigade1 #bdb ,cr[n1 #aeh1 #bba -- bridal1 #ahj -- ,tudor1 sup]s$$ t ( ,/4 ,edw>d1 #bbd1 #bbd ,crusad]s1 #cdd ,cuff1 turn$ back1 #ce1 #cf1 #cg1 #ch ,cuffs1 #ce -- ( wid[1 #ahc -- :ite lawn1 us$ z m\rn+ by ,k+'s ,c\nsel1 #bbj -- worn by ! legal pr(ession z "p ( m\rn+1 #ahc ,cuirass ( ,h\sehold troops1 #bcc ,cullod51 battle (1 #bdi ,curr5cies c>ri$ on ! p]son1 #aac -- ornam5ts z1 #aab ,cussan's ,h&book ( ,h]aldry1 #aei ,cu/om ( break+ a co9 ^u engagem5t1 #aae ,dalmatic1 #aij1 #aie1 #bba -- comp>$ ) a %irt1 #bhh -- ( ,bi%op1 fr+es on1 #aij -- -- deacon1 fr+es on left side only1 #aia -- symbolism ( fr+es1 #aia ,damascus1 damask takes its "n f1 #cac ,damask takes its "n f ,damascus1 #cac ,dane1 dress ( !1 #cai ,d>nley1 ,"l1 bree*es (1 #bhf ,d>w91 ,*>les1 on ! loss ( hair by man1 #g -- -- !ory ( evolution1 #b -- ,sir ,george1 on buttons1 #cj -- -- -- -- evolution 9 dress1 #c -- -- -- -- ! orig9 ( busbies1 #eh1 #ei -- -- -- -- top boots1 #fe1 #fe -- -- -- -- :y plumes are on ! left side1 #eh1 #eh ,d',aub]n\n1 ,sir ,john1 brass (1 %[+ *a9-mail1 #bcd ,david1 %ield (1 #bic ,dawk9s1 ,pr(essor ,boyd1 on ! orig9 ( ! hair comb1 #aag ,deacons1 /oles (1 #aib ,dea?s due to pa9t+ ! face1 #bgi ,decoys1 dogs dress$ z duck1 #cja ,de=mities caus$ by b&ag+ infants1 #afd ,demet]1 #big ,d5m>k1 dress ( ,bronze ,age *iefta9s1 #ah1 #ai ,depression 9 a judge's wig1 #bae1 #baf ,diamond1 suppos$ p[]s ( !1 #abd ,diamonds1 always fa%ionable1 #abc ,diap] appe>$ 9 reign ( ,h5ry ,,ii1 #cac -- d]iv$ f ,d',ypres1 #cac ,d9n]s1 h&k]*ief us$ = wrapp+1 #aie ,diodorus on ! plaid (1 #cab ,di/ortion ( ! head1 #ccf ,divorce1 ,b$\9 =m (1 #agh ,djibah1 #agb1 #agc ,doctor 9 ! ,pun* & ,judy %[1 #bfc1 #bfd -- ( ,div9ity1 sc>f (1 #aib -- r\nd cap (1 #bac ,dogs1 dress (1 z duck decoys1 #cja -- hairless1 #cjc ,dolls1 clo!s (1 #acg -- co/ume1 #bfg -- 9 swaddl+ clo!s1 ,mr4 ,edw>d ,lovett on1 #bfh ,dolman ( ! ,huss>s1 #ha1 #bci ,donkeys1 c[ry %ells on trapp+s (1 #big ,draw+s ( cave m51 #h1 #i1 #aj ,dress1 academical1 #bjh -- -- ,druitt on1 #baj -- bridal1 #age -- *>act]i/ic ( trades1 #cbj -- *ildr5's1 ,dr4 ,alice ,vick]y on1 #afe -- col\r 9 academical1 #cji -- condemnation (1 by ! cl]gy1 #cdd -- ,c\rt1 #bbf -- -- mi/akes made 91 #bbg -- does n usually %[ rank1 #cai -- ,dut* skeleton1 #ade1 #ade -- ev5+1 black & :ite1 #cjh -- -- sugge/s correct behavi\r1 #cdj -- ,highl&1 #afb -- ,league1 ,rational1 #ced -- mona/ic1 #aih -- m primitive1 worn on occasions ( c]emony1 #ace -- naval1 suppos$ survivals 91 #beb -- ( acrobats1 #bhf -- -- anci5t ,*ri/ians1 #ahg -- -- animals1 #bia -- -- beadles1 #adg1 #bfb1 #bfd -- -- coa*m51 orig9 (1 #aci -- -- convicts1 #ia -- -- co/]mong]s1 #cai -- -- footm51 orig9 (1 #aci -- -- girls at ,coombe ,hill ,s*ool1 ,we/]ham1 #aga1 #agb -- -- -- -- ! ,cr(t ,s*ool1 ,betley1 #agc1 #agc -- -- grooms1 orig9 (1 #aci -- -- h>lequ9s1 #bhc -- -- heads ( *ur*es 9 ,scotl&1 #bjj -- -- jockeys1 col\r$1 #adg -- -- ,k+'s ,c\nsel1 #bah -- -- ,knights ( ,/4 ,john ( ,j]usalem1 #cba -- -- monks1 #bja -- -- ,mrs4 ,bloom]1 #ha1 #cfa ,dress ( ,norwegian bride1 #ahj -- -- nuns1 #bja1 #bjc -- -- p>ticul> trades1 #adi -- -- peasants1 gay1 #cji -- -- ,pun* & ,judy1 #acg1 #bec -- -- ,romans1 #ahg -- -- s]vants1 #aci -- -- ! ,am]ican1 #cah -- -- -- ,au/rian1 #cah -- -- -- ,colonial1 #cai -- -- -- ,dane1 #cai -- -- -- ,fr5*man1 #cah -- -- -- ,g]man1 #cah -- -- -- ,hung>ian1 #cah -- -- -- ,norwegian1 #cai -- -- -- ,spani>d1 #cah -- -- ,/4 ,ni*olas1 #acg -- -- soldi]s previ\s to ! ,re/oration1 #bcf -- -- ,yeom5 ( ! ,gu>d1 #bbc1 #bbe -- once indicat$ rank1 #cai -- orig9 (1 #f -- p>ti-col\r$1 came into fa%ion 9 ,edw>d ,,ii's "t1 #cac -- pr(ession (t5 n indicat$ by1 #cae -- rank indicat$ 9 c]ta9 pr(essions by1 #cbj -- rational1 #ha1 #cfa -- re=m1 #ced -- simplification ( ,c\rt1 #bbf -- special1 = wor%ip1 #bje -- tax on elegant1 #cej -- to be accord+ to /ation1 #cej -- ugl9ess ( ev5+1 #bjh -- ,union1 ,heal?y & ,arti/ic1 #ced -- us$ 9 special occupations1 #cbj ,dresses1 bridal1 (t5 survivals1 #ahj -- special s*ool1 #afh -- ) tra9s to be kept = c]emonial occasions1 #ceh ,dress+-g[ns1 #ach1 #ceh ,drops = e>s1 #aab ,druitt1 ,mr41 on academical dress1 #baj -- -- -- boys dress$ 9 petticoats1 #afe -- -- -- ! coif1 #baf ,drumm]1 extra ( ,?ird ,huss>s1 #bdd ,dut* settl]'s wife1 ,miss ,alice ,morse ,e>le on ! dress (1 #cei -- skeleton dress1 #ade1 #ade1 #bgb ,dyes = t>tans obta9$ f native plants1 #cac ,eagles on coronation robe1 #bbb ,e> drops1 #aab ,e>s1 p]=at$ = r+s1 #aab ,e>le1 ,miss ,alice ,morse1 on ! co/ume ( ! wife ( a ,dut* settl]1 #cei ,eck5/e91 ,miss ,l9a1 on horse brasses1 #bic ,edw>d ,,ii1 be>d (1 #acj -- ,,iii1 badge (1 #ia -- -- be>d (1 #abi -- ,,iv1 be>d (1 closely %av51 #acj -- ,,vii1 robes worn at ! coronation (1 #bbb ,egypt1 f+] r+s 91 #aad ,egyptian graves1 models ( s]vants put into1 #bfh -- p9s1 #aje -- r+s ( blue pott]y1 #aaf ,egyptians1 anci5t1 bury amulets ) _! dead1 #abb -- black5+ eyelids1 #bgj -- e>ly1 tattoo+ practis$ by1 #bgg -- mod]n1 tattoo+ practis$ by1 #bgg -- prehi/oric1 beads (1 #aab ,elizabe?1 /atute cap (1 #afh -- ,que51 /ock+ (1 #fh ,elizabe?'s coronation glove1 /it*+ c>ri$ on to ! back (1 #ig1 #ih -- reign1 ruffs (1 #dh ,elsyng1 brass 9 *ur* at1 #hf1 #hf ,elves' arr[s z p5dants1 #abc ,elwor?y1 ,mr41 on horns ( hon\r1 #aag ,embroid]y c>ri$ on to ! backs ( gloves1 #ih1 #ii ,em]alds always fa%ionable1 #abc ,epaulettes1 #bch -- worn by ! 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"t ( ,que5 ,anne1 #bgi ,gorget ! badge ( an (fic] on duty1 #bce ,gorilla1 hair (1 #f ,g[n1 #ah -- black1 #ahe -- ,g5eva1 b&s worn )1 #dd -- ( judge1 #bag -- -- ,k+'s ,c\nsel1 #bah -- -- ,ma/] ( ,arts1 #baj -- -- ,ox=d ,und]graduates1 #baj ,g[ns1 black1 legal m\rn+ = ,que5 ,m>y ,,ii1 #bah -- worn by s*ol>s at ,eton1 #afi ,greek betro?al r+s1 #aae ,gremial1 #bjb ,gr5adi]1 caps ( ,scots ,greys1 #bdd ,greys1 ,scots1 #bde ,gr5adi] ,gu>ds1 #bdh ,groom1 #adj -- orig9 ( belt1 #aci -- -- -- dress1 #aci ,gu>ds1 drumm]s (1 fleur-de-lys on braid (1 #bdf -- =mation (1 by ,*>les ,,ii1 #bdf -- ,gr5adi]1 #bdh -- -- buttons on coats (1 #bi -- ,iri%1 #bdh -- ,life & ,horse1 survival ( cord = prim+ p[d] horn1 #ajh -- ,scots1 #bdh -- :ite jackets (1 #bdc ,guignol1 #bee -- ,fr5* pun*1 #beg -- ! 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app>el ( ! *asuble1 #aif ,o/ri* fea!rs1 #abb ,ox=d ,univ]sity1 ,*ancellor (1 hang+ sleeve (1 #baj1 #baa -- -- und]graduate's g[n1 #baj ,ov]coat1 #adi ,pads 9 hair dress+1 #aca ,padd+1 #cch ,page-boy1 buttons (1 #add1 #ade -- -- liv]y (1 #ade1 #ade ,pageants1 success (1 a sign ( ! crav+ = col\r1 #cjf ,pa9t on face ( cl[ns1 #bfi -- use (1 by wom5 9 ,japan1 #bge -- -- -- -- -- -- ,*9a1 #bge -- -- -- at a corroboree1 #bgb -- -- -- 9 w> to t]rify1 #bgc ,pa9t$ pa/ebo>d figures burnt at fun]als 9 ,*9a1 #bgd ,pa9t+1 #ac -- by native races1 #bgb -- foll[s ! bones ( ! body1 #bgb -- ( cl[ns lik5$ to t once 9 vogue 9 ,*9a & ,japan1 #bgf -- -- ! body by cave m51 #bgj -- practis$ by civiliz$ m51 #bhj -- ! body among ,&aman ,isl&]s1 #bgf -- -- -- ,pr(essor ,moseley on1 #bgb -- -- eyes1 practis$ by ! prehi/oric ,egyptian1 #fjjj ,b4,c41 #bga -- -- face to hide ! ravages ( "t1 #bgh -- -- -- -- height5 its beauty1 #bgh -- -- -- dea?s due to1 #bgi -- -- -- ( ,japanese *ildr51 #bgc -- -- -- -- -- actors1 #bgc -- -- feet sc>let by ,h9du wom51 #bgc ,palettes1 slate1 9 ! 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b>e feet ( *ildr5 91 #ccc ,petrie1 ,pr(essor1 on ,romano-,egyptian portrait models1 #acb -- -- -- buttons 9 ,egypt1 #abj -- -- -- ! orig9 ( a suppos$ %ield-%ap$ ornam5t1 #bif ,petticoat at fir/ n %ap$1 #gc -- hoop$1 #ccg ,petticoats1 l5g!n+ (1 #aff -- ( sailors1 #beb -- -- small boys1 #afe ,pfif]>i1 cross g>t]+ (1 #fh -- leg b&ages (1 #fh ,phallic wor%ip1 #abb ,pig-tail1 grease (1 #beb ,pileus quadratus1 #bab ,pillion1 #adj ,p91 safety1 #aja1 #aah -- -- 9 hat1 #ajd1 #ajd -- -- -- wai/b&1 #ajc1 #ajd -- -- l an ,etruscan broo*1 #ajb1 #ajc -- sc>f1 #aah ,p9a=e1 #aej ,p9a=es n[ *ildr5's dress1 #afg ,p9-money1 #aje ,p9n]1 #aej ,p9s1 bronze1 #aje -- ,egyptian1 #aje -- f\nd 9 ,swiss ,lake dwell+s1 #aje -- gold1 #aig -- made ( ?orns1 #abe -- ( bone1 #aje -- ornam5tal1 #ajf -- sc>f1 #ajf ,pi!can?ropus erectus1 #g ,plaid1 #bj1 #ahg -- belt$1 #gb -- %eph]d's1 #cab ,plaids1 #caa ,pla/ron ( ,huss>s1 #adh ,pl[right1 ,dr41 on ! ,moori% orig9 ( "s horse brasses1 #bic ,plugs = lips1 #aaa ,plumes1 black1 ( f>ri]s ( ,life ,gu>ds1 #bdb -- :y on left side1 #eh ,plu%1 #adi -- bree*es1 #ajd1 #ada ,pocket flaps1 ve/iges (1 #cb1 #cc ,pockets1 #aji -- 9 ! sleeves ( a ,corean1 #aaj -- side1 #cj -- unciviliz$ p )\t1 #i ,po9ts1 #ih -- on gloves1 #if1 #ih ,policeman's coat1 buttons on ! back (1 #bf1 #bf -- uni=m n worn by *ildr51 #afc ,polly1 ,miss1 9 ! ,pun* & ,judy %[1 n[ ext9ct1 #bfe ,polypus 7 ! octopus7 *ang+ col\r1 #bjf ,port]s1 liv]y (1 #adh -- railway1 wai/coats (1 #adh ,portugal1 ,que5 (1 demon/rates ! evils ( tight-lac+ by means ( radiographs1 #cbe ,po/ilions1 buttons on jackets (1 #ch -- coats ( ,8 ,maje/y's1 #ade -- ( ,"l ,mayor1 cre/ worn ^u cap (1 #ib1 #ib ,po/ulant1 veil (1 #bjb ,p\pe d]iv$ f pupa1 #afc ,p\t] coat1 #ada1 #ada ,p[d]1 #adi -- = hair1 #aca ,pray]-book1 fir/1 ( ,edw>d ,v1 ornam5ts1 rubric (1 upheld by ,act ( ,uni=mity1 #aii -- -- second1 ( ,edw>d ,,vi1 #aii -- -- ve/m5ts prescrib$ by !1 fir/1 ( ,edw>d ,,vi1 #aih ,prick]s on ! %\ld]-belt ( a ,huss>1 #bci1 #bci ,prie/1 #aid ,pr(ession indicat$ by co/umes1 #caf ,pugg>ee ( ,duke ( ,cornwall's ,light ,infantry1 #bdc ,pulic9ella1 #bed -- means a h5 *ick51 #bfd -- ,oscan1 ( #agca1 #bef ,pun*1 #bfc -- a ,roman mime1 #ahc -- & ,judy1 dress (1 #acg -- -- -- %[1 beadle (1 #adg1 #bfb1 #bfd -- -- -- -- doctor (1 #bfc -- -- -- -- ,hector1 ! 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,briti% ,army1 #cjh -- rag ( *ulos 9 ! bull fight1 #cjf -- ribbon ( engag$ girl1 #cjf -- rose ( ,lanca/]1 #cjf -- %irt ( ! foll[]s ( ,g>ibaldi1 #cjf -- tie ( platelay]1 #cjf ,regim5tal badges1 #bde ,rev]s button$ back1 #ch1 #ci ,reynolds1 ,mr4 ,p4 ,w41 on ! survival ( a button1 #bdh -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- =age cords1 #bda ,rhead1 ,mr41 on ! fe/al dress ( ,otaheite1 #cch ,ri*>d ,,ii's "t1 *ap]on (1 #aeg ,rifle ,brigade1 busby (1 #bdb -- -- cross belt (1 #bdb ,r+1 #aie -- = nose ( ,h9du ayahs1 #aaa -- 9 ,irel&1 be>+ clasp$ h&s1 #aaf -- ( ,bi%op ,agilb]t ( ,p>is1 #aad ,r+s1 betro?al ( ,greeks1 #aae -- -- -- ,romans1 #aae -- engagem5t1 #aad -- ,egyptian1 ( blue pott]y ( faence1 #aaf -- ,episcopal1 #aad -- f+]1 9 ,babylon1 #aad -- -- -- ,egypt1 #aad -- = e>s1 #aab -- gimmal1 #aae -- 9 :i* ! /ones /& = lett]s1 #aaf -- sacr$ eye on1 #aag -- signet1 #hc1 #he -- -- 9 ,egypt1 #aad -- -- susp5d$ f ! neck1 #aaf -- us$ z an insignia ( rank by ,romans1 #aae -- w$d+1 #aad -- -- worn by nuns1 #bjd -- :y worn on ?ird f+]1 #aae ,robe1 p>liam5t>y1 ( ! 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heads 9 *ur*1 #bje1 #bjg -- ,george1 cross (1 #aeh -- ,gregory ! ,great1 co/ume (1 #ahh1 #ahh -- ,john ( ,j]usalem1 dress ( ,knights (1 #cba -- ,lucia1 #bdd -- ,ni*olas1 dress (1 #acg -- -- figure (1 %[s old dress1 #bfg -- ,patrick1 hood ( ! ,ord] (1 #bcj ,sapphires always fa%ionable1 #abc ,s>agossa1 battle (1 #bdc ,sa%es meant to be us$ z sl+s1 #bda -- ( (fic]s1 #bdi -- worn ov] ! left %\ld] by s]geants ( ! ,tw5ty-,n9? ,foot1 #bdi ,sat*el c>ri$ on a baldric1 #ajf ,savage1 ! female--a ,m]veilleuse dress1 #cdf ,savages1 col\r pref]5ces (1 #cjg ,saxons p>t$ or trimm$ _! be>ds1 #abi -- wore tr\s]s1 #gi1 #gi ,scapul> ( nuns1 #bjb ,sc>am\*1 #bed1 #bfa -- a pantomimi/1 #bhf ,sc>f1 #aia1 #aii -- on ladies' hats1 #adi -- p91 #ajf1 #aah ,sc>ves1 #aib ,sceptre1 #bba1 #cjd ,s*ool1 ,blue-coat1 #afg -- ,bri/ol ,r$-,maids1 #afh -- ,wells ,grey-,maids1 #afh ,s*ools1 ,gre5-coat1 #afh -- ,grey-coat1 #afh ,scotl&1 dress ( heads ( *ur*es 91 #bjj ,scotti% ,rifles1 *aco (1 #bda ,scots ,greys1 #bde -- -- take _! 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c5tury1 #ec1 #ec ,/r+s1 cap1 #adi -- on mitres1 #ed1 #ed ,/ripe on tr\s]s1 ve/ige ( a r[ ( buttons1 #ha1 #hb ,/ripes on sleeves ( non-commission$ (fic]s1 #aad ,/ud1 #aah1 #aai ,suit1 sailor1 #afb ,sumptu>y laws1 #cdi1 #cej1 #cea -- -- a h9drance to trade1 #cea -- -- usually a failure1 #cdi ,sun-bonnet ( b>ge wom51 #fa2 see ,plate ,,viii1 fac+ p4 #aej ,sun-bonnets ( horses1 #cjj -- -- -- m>ket-g>d5 wom51 #fa ,surcoat1 #hc -- ( ,black ,pr9ce1 #hg1 #hi -- -- ,h5ry ,duke ( ,lanca/]1 #hf1 #hf ,surgeons ( ! ,life ,gu>ds we> cock$ hats1 #bdg ,sup]/itions keep up fa%ions1 #cdi ,surplice1 #ahe1 #aie1 #aii -- academical hood worn by cl]gy on a1 #bab -- ,mr4 ,macali/] on !1 #ahe -- slit 9 front 9 ord] to g ov] big wigs1 #ahe ,survivals ( trade co/umes 7but*]s71 #cjh -- suppos$ 9 naval dress1 #beb ,susp5d]s1 #ga ,surt\t1 #adh ,swaddl+ clo!s /ill us$ 9 ! ,holy ,l&1 #ccc -- -- !ory t /ays are d]iv$ f1 #ccb -- -- swall[-tail coat1 evolution (1 #cc1 #cd -- tails at ,h>r[1 #agj ,swa/ika1 #aai1 #abb2 see ,plate ,,vii1 fig4 ,f1 fac+ p4 #abi1 #caa -- ! =]unn] ( ! cross1 #caa ,sword belt1 n worn outside ! coat1 #bf -- h&le1 op5+ =1 9 coat1 #cj -- 9 ,c\rt dress1 #bbg -- ivory hilt$1 worn by ,elev5? 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,c\ncil (1 #aib ,tonsure1 #bag -- ( prie/s1 #abg ,topaz z a detector ( poison1 #abd ,too?pick coll> ( dress coat1 #dc1 #dc ,top-coat1 #adi ,trades1 *>act]i/ic dresses (1 #cbj ,trajan1 tr\s]s %[n on ! column (1 #gh ,tramway driv]s1 buttons on back ( ! coats (1 #cj1 #ca ,treble1 cockade1 l>ge1 #aeb ,tr5*]1 #dg1 #bac1 #bad ,triangles1 my/ic int]lac$1 #bic ,trimm+s ( judge's g[n1 alt]$ 9 col\r by ,"l ,col]idge1 #bah ,triskele 9 ! coat-(-arms ( ! ,isle ( ,man1 #aai -- -- -- -- -- -- -- ,sicily1 #aai ,tr\s]s1 bell-bottom1 #cdg -- evolution (1 #gg -- me?od ( button+ bi%ops'1 #beb -- n worn by ,romans1 #gg -- ( lab\r]s1 me?od ( button+1 #beb -- -- sailors1 me?od ( button+1 #beb -- %[n on ,trajan's column1 #gh -- worn by b>b>ians1 #gh1 #gh -- -- -- lady g>d5]s at ,kew1 #ceh -- -- -- ,normans1 #gi -- -- -- ,saxons1 #gi1 #gi -- -- -- wom5 9 ,siam1 #ha2 see ,plate ,v1 fac+ p4 #ha -- -- -- -- -- ,p]sia1 #ha -- -- 9 rid+ dress by ladies1 #ceh ,trumpet]s1 ,/ate1 uni=m (1 #bdb ,trump+ton1 ,sir ,ri*>d de1 brass (1 %[+ *a9 mail1 #bcd1 #bcd ,trunk hose ( cl[n1 #bfi -- -- ( ,knightly ,ord]s1 #bca ,tudor dresses1 %[n by play+ c>ds1 #bca -- flat cap1 #bad ,tunic1 #af1 #ag1 #ag1 #ahg -- develop$ f ! %awl1 #ag1 #ah ,tunic1 ,egyptian1 #af -- ,greek1 #af1 #ag -- ( monks1 #bja -- sleev$1 #ag -- survival ( ! ,anglo-,saxon1 #bhh ,tunica alba1 #ahi ,tunicle1 #aie1 #bba ,tunics1 black1 ( f>ri]s ( ,life ,gu>ds1 #bdb -- ( ,anglo-,saxons comp>$ ) a %irt1 #bhh -- -- ,lac$monian girls slit d[n ! side1 #cdf ,turban l ! dome ( a mosque1 #ej1 #ej ,turquoises always fa%ionable1 #abc ,tw5ty-,n9? 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