,,the ,,heritage ,,of ,,dress ,illustration3 ,,very ,,early ,,man ,,in ,,java4 7,chapter ,,ii47 ,,plate ,i4 ,,the ,,heritage ,,of ,,dress ,,being ,,notes ,,on ,,the ,,history ,,and ,,evolution ,,of ,,clothes ,,by ,,wilfred ,,mark ,,webb ,,fellow ,,of ,,the ,,linnean ,,society ,,of ,,london ,,curator ,,of ,,eton ,,college ,,museum ,,with ,,eleven ,,plates ,,and ,,one ,,hundred ,,and ,,sixty-,,nine ,,figures ,,in ,,the ,,text ,,london ,e4 ,,grant ,,richards #aijg ,,to ,,my ,,wife ,,hilda ,e4 ,,webb ,,preface ,it would be difficult to find a subject of more universal interest than that of dress1 and hosts of books have been written which deal with the attire that has been adopted at different times and by various nations or social classes4 ,the ornamental and artistic sides of the question have also received much consideration1 but the volumes that have appeared serve chiefly as works of reference4 ,the present book aims at being of more immediate interest and usefulness2 it starts with things as they are1 and is really a popular contribution to the natural history of man4 ,on all sides the advantages of observation and the need for the nature-study method in education are being rightly urged1 but there is a tendency to narrow the purview4 ,anything in our environment is worthy of notice1 and though attention is well directed towards that which is least artificial1 we should not leave man and his works altogether on one side4 ,there is material for observation1 research1 and deduction1 even in a bowler hat and a cut-away coat4 ,one of the pleasantest features in connection with the making of this book has been the kind and ready help which ,i have received from all sides4 ,here and there throughout the text the names of friends and correspondents who have given their assistance have been mentioned4 ,to these ,i offer my hearty thanks1 as well as to the following1 who with suggestions1 information1 or with material for illustrations1 have contributed in no small way to the interest of the book3 ,messrs4 ,fownes ,brothers ,company1 ,mr4 ,allan ,a4 ,hooke1 ,mr4 ,w4 ,s4 ,ward1 ,mr4 ,karl1 of ,messrs4 ,nathan ,company1 ,messrs4 ,tress ,company1 ,messrs4 ,lincoln ,bennett1 ,mr4 ,m4 ,d4 ,hill1 the ,rev4 ,a4 ,w4 ,upcott1 ,head ,master of ,christ's ,hospital1 ,miss ,clark1 ,miss ,hodgson1 the ,rev4 ,r4 ,ashington ,bullen1 ,mr4 ,henry ,miller1 of the ,church ,association1 ,mr4 ,ravenscroft1 of ,messrs4 ,ede ,sons ,ravenscroft1 ,mr4 ,paley ,baildon1 ,mr4 ,george ,hertslet1 of the ,lord ,chamberlain's ,office1 ,messrs4 ,wilkinson ,company1 ,mr4 ,c4 ,m4 ,mhlberg1 ,mr4 ,w4 ,s4 ,parker1 of ,messrs4 ,debenhams1 ,ltd41 ,capt4 ,h4 ,trench1 ,major ,j4 ,w4 ,mallet1 of the ,army and ,navy ,gazette1 ,mr4 ,basil ,white1 of ,messrs4 ,hawkes ,company1 ,mr4 ,w4 ,h4 ,jesson1 ,messrs4 ,souter ,company1 ,mr4 ,william ,lawrence1 ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg1 ,dr4 ,j4 ,cantlie1 and the ,rt4 ,hon4 ,viscountess ,harberton4 ,a glance at the bibliography1 which is given on pages #cfc-g1 will show the principal books and papers to which reference has been made4 ,in connection with the illustrations1 special thanks must be given to ,monsieur ,maurice ,sand1 the ,editor of the ,review of the ,university of ,brussels1 for his kind permission to reproduce a number of the figures used to illustrate a translation of ,sir ,george ,darwin's article4 ,these are ,figures #ad1 #ag1 #ah1 #ai1 #ba1 #bb1 #bc1 #bf1 #bg1 #cj1 #ca1 #cc1 #df1 #dh1 #fb1 #fc1 and #hb4 ,acknowledgments are due to ,mr4 ,st4 ,john ,hope for ,figures #hf-h1 to ,messrs4 ,a4 ,c4 ,black for ,figures #abc and #abd and #acb and #acc1 and to ,messrs4 ,prewett ,co4 for ,figures #aaa and #aab4 ,for the original of ,plate ,,ii1 ,i am indebted to the kindness of ,captain ,r4 ,ford1 of ,plate ,,iii to ,mr4 ,henry ,stevens2 ,plate ,,iv has been taken from a brass rubbing in ,rugby ,school ,museum1 through the kind offices of ,mr4 ,j4 ,m4 ,hardwich4 ,i have to thank ,mr4 ,r4 ,bamber for the original of ,plate ,,viii1 which was obtained through his instrumentality4 ,figure ,b of ,plate ,,ix was kindly contributed by the ,rev4 ,a4 ,w4 ,upcott1 ,head ,master of ,christ's ,hospital1 and ,figures ,b and ,c on ,plate ,x were copied from ,moseley's ,voyage of the ',challenger1' by the kind permission of ,mr4 ,john ,murray1 while ,figure ,d is due to the courtesy of ,general ,robley4 ,plate ,,xi is reprinted from ,the ,reliquary1 by the kind permission of ,messrs4 ,bemrose and ,sons1 and the source of other illustrations is acknowledged beneath them1 while the classic collection of pictures which were brought together by the late ,mr4 ,f4 ,w4 ,fairholt to illustrate his ,costume in ,england has proved1 as will be seen1 of the utmost service4 ,in conclusion1 ,i have much pleasure in calling attention to the time and care which ,mr4 ,w4 ,j4 ,webb has expended upon the figures1 which are a feature of the book2 and ,i must mention the willing help which ,i have been afforded in a number of details by ,miss ,amy ,astbury and ,mr4 ,bernard ,weaver4 ,,wilfred ,,mark ,,webb4 ,,odstock1 ,,hanwell1 ,november1 #aijg4 ,,contents ,i ,,the ,,thrall ,,of ,,dress ,,page ,the principles of evolution applied to clothes #a ,,ii ,,the ,,origin ,,of ,,dress #f ,,iii ,,development ,,of ,,the ,,modern ,,coat ,the ancestral shawl--,problematical buttons #ae ,,iv ,,buttons ,,as ,,chronicles ,episodes in the later history of the coat and cuffs #be ,v ,,collars ,,and ,,bands ,nicks in coat lapels--,the why and wherefore of the white shirt front #da ,,vi ,,vestiges ,,in ,,the ,,hat ,how hats were evolved--,why plumes are on the left side--,the growth of the busby--,helmets and cocked hats #di ,,vii ,,shoes ,,and ,,stockings ,early foot-gear--,the origin of the clock--,a modern imitation of tattooing--,gaily coloured garters #fb ,,viii ,,petticoats ,,and ,,trousers ,the belted plaid and kilt--,early skirts--,the antiquity of trousers--,trouser stripes #gb ,,ix ,,coats ,,of ,,arms ,signet rings--,armorial bearings--,escutcheons--,crests--,badges #hc ,x ,,gloves ,,and ,,mittens ,origin of the baby's glove--,fourchettes--,the points on the backs of gloves #id ,,xi ,,tags1 ,,pins1 ,,and ,,baldrics ,laces--,the evolution and vagaries of the safety-pin--,primitive methods of carrying burdens as illustrated by muff-chains1 baldrics1 and yokes #ajj ,,xii ,,ornaments ,primitive necklaces--,finger rings--,the origin of the hair comb--,buttons--,studs--,flowers--,feath ers--,amulets #aaa ,,xiii ,,hair ,,dressing ,head shaving--,wigs that are still worn--,roman curls and fringes #abf ,,xiv ,,special ,,dresses ,fashions kept up by ceremonies--,survivals in special costume--,flowing garments #ace ,,xv ,,servants' ,,dress ,the prototypes of liveries--,reminiscences of ,george ,,ii and ,george ,,iii--,origin of the page-boy's buttons--,the jockey cap--,aprons #aci ,,xvi ,,cockades ,the cockade a degenerated chaperon--,the varieties of the cockade--,cockade wearers #aeb ,,xvii ,,children',s ,,dress ,survivals in children's dress--,special school costumes--,the blue-coat boy--,public school boys--,adoption of special dress at girls' schools #afb ,,xviii ,,wedding ,,garments ,the veil--,bridesmaids and bribery--,old shoes--,orange blossom #age ,,xix ,,mourning ,colours associated with mourning--,widows' weeds--,perennial mourning #aha ,,xx ,,costume ,,connected ,,with ,,religion ,the surplice and the cloth--,the civil origin of vestments--,fine vestments--,processional vestments1 so called--,nuns' dress--,the choker #ahd ,,xxi ,,sunday ,,clothes ,the significance of ,sunday clothes--,the wearing of hats in church by ladies #bje ,,xxii ,,academical ,,dress ,gowns and hanging sleeves--,the forerunner of the hood--,the origin of the doctor's hat--,the evolution of the mortar-board #bjh ,,xxiii ,,legal ,,dress ,vestiges of the coif--,hoods and gowns--,signs of mourning #bae ,,xxiv ,,state ,,and ,,court ,,attire ,coronation dress--,parliamentary robes--,mistakes in ,court dress--,vestiges of the wig and of the chaperon--,court cards #bba ,,xxv ,,survivals ,,in ,,military ,,uniforms ,armour--,prickers for flint locks--,forage cords--,reminiscences of gallantry--,regimental badges--,courtship colours #bcc ,,xxvi ,,naval ,,uniform ,supposed survivals--,petticoats and wide breeches #bea ,,xxvii ,,the ,,costume ,,of ,,puppets ,punch and ,judy--,fashion dolls--,dolls in swaddling clothes--,the ,egyptian shabbies #bec ,,xxviii ,,the ,,clown ,,and ,,painting ,,the ,,body ,the clown's dress--,savage painting and survivals of it--,tattooing--,patches and false complexions--,masks #bfi ,,xxix ,,stage ,,costumes ,the harlequin1 pantaloon1 columbine1 and acrobat #bhb ,,xxx ,,nightdress ,bands on nightgowns--,nightcaps--,night attire worn in the streets #bhg ,,xxxi ,,the ,,dress ,,of ,,animals ,natural representatives of clothes--,horse trappings--,amulets on harness--,dogs' disguises--,fashions in the form of animals #bia ,,xxxii ,,colour ,importance of colour--,instinctive love of bright hues--,desirability of coloured clothes and gay scenes--,colour and complexion #cje ,,xxxiii ,,patterns ,ancient designs--,checks and tartans--,parti-coloured clothes--,evolution of ornamentation #caa ,,xxxiv ,,impressions ,,to ,,be ,,gained ,,from ,,dress ,clues from clothes--,individuality not disguised by them--,modern dress of other countries--,significance of clothes #cae ,,xxxv ,,the ,,effect ,,of ,,clothes ,,upon ,,the ,,individual ,the origin of stays--,tight lacing no new thing--,its effects--,mr4 ,heather ,bigg on the need for support--,the ideal foot--,skull deformities--,padding #cbb ,,xxxvi ,,further ,,effects ,,of ,,clothes ,,on ,,the ,,individual ,mental effects of different clothes--,preferences of girls for certain articles of dress--,movements that depend upon the presence or absence of clothes #cci ,,xxxvii ,,the ,,rise ,,and ,,fall ,,of ,,fashions ,reason why fashions are followed--,gay clothes seen when periods of depression are over--,condemnation of fashions by the clergy--,quakers--,sumptuary laws--,the killing of fashions #cdc ,,xxxviii ,,dress ,,reform ,clothes to be avoided--,need for warmer garments--,rational dress for women #ced ,,conclusion #cfb ,,bibliography #cfc ,,index #cfi ,,list ,,of ,,plates ,,plate ,,facing ,,page ,i4 ,very early man in ,java4 ,illustrating the remarks in ,chapter ,,ii1 pages #f and #g ,frontispiece ,,ii4 ,a woman and a witch-doctor of ,central ,africa1 showing the part that ornaments may play even when clothing is of the scantiest4 7,from a photograph by ,captain ,ford7 #i ,,iii4 ,the silk vest worn by ,charles ,i on the scaffold4 ,illustrating the sleeved tunic opening for a short distance down the front4 7,from a photograph by ,mr4 ,henry ,stevens7 #ah ,,iv4 ,reproduction of a brass to ,john ,brandon and his two wives in the ,church of ,st4 ,mary1 ,king's ,lynn4 ,date1 #acfd4 ,on the male figure1 continuous rows of buttons run from the wrist to the elbow of the under-vest4 ,the women wear the wimple and gorget or throat cloth #ch ,v4 ,a ,siamese ,princess wearing trousers #ha ,,vi4 ,two ,padaung women1 showing the numerous metal collars which they wear round their necks #aad ,,vii4 ,methods of hairdressing1 illustrated by ,romano-,egyptian portrait models in the ,myers ,collection1 ,eton ,college ,museum4 7,from photographs by ,wilfred ,mark ,webb7 #abi ,,viii4 ,a barge girl1 showing the costume worn on the canals4 7,from a photograph by ,wakefield ,brentford7 #aej ,,ix4 ,fig4 ,a4 ,the cap worn by the scholars of ,christ's ,hospital until the middle of the nineteenth century4 ,fig4 ,b4 ,a scholar of ,christ's ,hospital4 7,by the courtesy of the ,rev4 ,a4 ,w4 ,upcott1 ,m4,a41 ,head ,master of ,christ's ,hospital7 #afg ,x4 ,fig4 ,a4 ,the head of a clown1 showing the painted face1 the ruff1 and the ,elizabethan method of doing the hair4 ,fig4 ,b4 ,the face of a ,japanese actor 7after ,moseley1 by the courtesy of ,mr4 ,john ,murray74 ,fig4 ,c4 ,the painted face of a paper figure which is burned at ,chinese funerals 7after ,moseley1 by the courtesy of ,mr4 ,john ,murray74 ,fig4 ,d4 ,the tattooed head of a ,moorish chief4 7,by the courtesy of ,general ,robley7 #bgj ,,xi4 ,wooden stay busks4 ,these incidentally show survivals of primitive ornament4 ,from ,the ,reliquary1 by kind permission of ,messrs4 ,bemrose ,sons1 ,ltd4 #cbf ,,list ,,of ,,figures ,,fig4 ,,page #a4 ,drawing of a woman engraved by a cave man #i #b4 ,sketch showing the development of the tunic4 ,in this stage it has no arms #ag #c4 ,diagram showing the way in which a sleeved tunic is derived from the shawl #ah #d4 ,a smock frock #ai #e4 ,jacket of a woman1 made in one piece4 ,bronze stage of culture 7after ,worsaae7 #ai #f4 ,man's dress showing buttons on the right side #bj #g4 ,woman's dress showing buttons on the left side #ba #h4 ,diagram showing how a man does up a button4 ,first stage #bc #i4 ,diagram showing how a man does up a button4 ,second stage #bc #aj4 ,diagram showing how a woman does up a button4 ,first stage #bc #aa4 ,diagram showing how a woman does up a button4 ,second stage #bc #ab4 ,the buttons on the back of a policeman's great-coat #bf #ac4 ,the buttons that close the slit up the back of an ulster #bg #ad4 ,a back view of a seventeenth-century coat showing the buttons and buttonholes #bh #ae4 ,the tab and buttons on the back of a soldier's great-coat which make a temporary waist #bi #af4 ,the buttons and tab on a tramway driver's coat #ca #ag4 ,an eighteenth-century coat with side buttons and tab #ca #ah4 ,side tabs and buttons at the back 7after ,racinet7 #ca #ai4 ,a coat worn at the end of the seventeenth century 7after ,h4 ,bonnart7 #cb #bj4 ,a modern coat with side pockets #cb #ba4 ,a footman's coat1 modern1 with vestigial pocket flaps #cc #bb4 ,coat skirts buttoned back 7after ,hogarth7 #cc #bc4 ,a coat with the skirts buttoned back and showing the lining #cd #bd4 ,a dress coat with skirts cut away #cd #be4 ,a modern coat cuff with buttons #ce #bf4 ,turned-back cuff1 end of seventeenth century 7after ,bonnart7 #ce #bg4 ,a coat sleeve 7after ,hogarth7 with horizontal row of buttons #cf #bh4 ,sleeve of a coat of the seventeenth century1 reputed to have been worn by ,charles ,i #cf #bi4 ,the turned-back cuff of an overcoat1 modern #cg #cj4 ,a sleeve with vertical buttons and a turned-back cuff as well 7from a uniform1 after ,hogarth7 #cg #ca4 ,the uniform of a coastguard officer of #agge 7after ,racinet7 #ci #cb4 ,the nicks in the coat and waistcoat #da #cc4 ,a stage when the nick was useful 7,lucien ,bonaparte1 after ,paul ,lacroix7 #db #cd4 ,the toothpick on a dress coat #dc #ce4 ,modern bands #de #cf4 ,a blue-coat boy's bands #de #cg4 ,a chorister of ,jesus ,college1 ,cambridge1 showing the collar worn until recently4 7,from a photograph1 by the courtesy of ,mr4 ,h4 ,austin ,wheaton7 #de #ch4 ,a stage in the reduction of bands 7portrait of ,jan ,steen from the ,illustrated ,magazine of ,art7 #df #ci4 ,full-sized bands 7portrait of ,john ,pym from the ,illustrated ,magazine of ,art7 #df #dj4 ,a modern bandbox1 now used for hats #dg #da4 ,bands that survive at the present day #dg #db4 ,the turban of a ,jewish priest 7after ,kitto7 compared with the dome of the ,mosque of ,omar #ej #dc4 ,a ,siamese head-dress and a ,pra ,pang or votive spire 7after ,p4 ,a4 ,thompson7 #ea #dd4 ,a ,gothic spire 7,st4 ,stephens1 ,caen7 compared with the hennin 7the latter after ,fairholt7 #ea #de4 ,band with streamers fastening on the head-dress of an ,egyptian woman4 ,from a figure of the ,sixth ,dynasty1 #cejj ,b4,c4 #eb #df4 ,a lady's head-dress confined with a fillet1 fourteenth century 7after ,viollet le ,duc7 #eb #dg4 ,a sailor hat with band and streamers #ec #dh4 ,a twelfth-century head-dress with streamers1 from a ,,ms4 7after ,viollet le ,duc7 #ec #di4 ,a modern ,scotch cap with streamers #ed #ej4 ,a mitre of the ,see of ,durham showing the strings 7after ,millington7 #ed #ea4 ,small vestigial bow of ribbon in a modern hat #ee #eb4 ,a hat with the remains of lacing #ee #ec4 ,a hunting hat with complete lacing inside #ef #ed4 ,a disc of leather #eg #ee4 ,the disc perforated and the lace inserted #eg #ef4 ,the lace tightened to form a crown #eg #eg4 ,the ends of the lace tied as a bow inside #eg #eh4 ,a bow fastened to the lining of a lady's hat #eh #ei4 ,plumes on the left side #eh #fj4 ,the red ,hungarian cap1 which was the forerunner of the busby #ei #fa4 ,a busby 7of the ,hon4 ,artillery ,company7 in which the cap is a vestige only #ei #fb4 ,a fireman's helmet 7of the ancient ,greek type7 #fj #fc4 ,buttons so arranged that the broad brim of a hat can be fastened to the crown1 thus forming a temporary cock 7,hudibras1 after ,hogarth7 #fj #fd4 ,a modern boot decorated with perforations made in the leather #fc #fe4 ,an ornamented ,roman shoe1 of two thicknesses #fc #ff4 ,a ,roman shoe of open-work leather #fc #fg4 ,a hide shoe of pre-,roman type from ,ireland 7after ,fairholt7 #fd #fh4 ,the original top boot with the upper part temporarily turned down #fe #fi4 ,the modern top boot in which the upper part can no longer be turned up #ff #gj4 ,puttees #ff #ga4 ,leg bandages of a royal personage at the end of the tenth century 7after ,fairholt7 #fg #gb4 ,a stocking with clocks #fh #gc4 ,an embroidered stocking showing the further evolution of the clock 7date #aijj7 #fi #gd4 ,an open-work stocking of #aije #fi #ge4 ,a shawl used as a kilt by a chieftain of ,denmark in the bronze stage of culture 7after ,worsaae7 #gc #gf4 ,a simple dress in the form of a petticoat from an ,egyptian figure of the ,sixth ,dynasty 7#cejj ,b4,c471 from the ,myers collection in ,eton ,college ,museum #gd #gg4 ,a ,korean servant 7after ,hough7 #ge #gh4 ,a short kilt #gf #gi4 ,a barbarian soldier wearing characteristic trousers 7from a diptych of ,st4 ,paul1 after ,marriott7 #gh #hj4 ,a ,saxon military man wearing wide trousers 7from the ,harleian ,,ms41 ,no4 #fjc1 after ,fairholt7 #gi #ha4 ,a peasant woman of ,champry wearing trousers #hj #hb4 ,a ,german ,hussar of #ahjh #ha #hc4 ,the crest on a modern signet ring #he #hd4 ,sir ,geoffrey ,loutterell and the ladies of his family1 showing the extent to which armorial bearings were worn in the middle of the fourteenth century4 ,from a psalter1 made for ,sir ,geoffrey 7after ,fairholt7 #he #he4 ,the crest and surcoat of ,henry1 first ,duke of ,lancaster1 ,a4,d4 #acdg4 ,from the brass to ,sir ,hugh ,hasting at ,elsyng1 ,norfolk 7after ,charles ,boutell7 #hf #hf4 ,the helmet and crest of the ,black ,prince4 ,from ,vetusta ,monumenta 7after ,st4 ,john ,hope7 #hh #hg4 ,the shield of the ,black ,prince4 ,from ,vetusta ,monumenta 7after ,st4 ,john ,hope7 #hi #hh4 ,the surcoat or jupon of the ,black ,prince4 ,from ,vetusta ,monumenta 7after ,st4 ,john ,hope7 #hi #hi4 ,the postilion of a ,lord ,mayor of ,london1 wearing a crest upon his cap1 and a coat of arms upon his sleeve 7copied by permission from a plate published by the ,john ,williamson ,co41 ,ltd47 #ib #ij4 ,a baby's glove without separate fingers #ie #ia4 ,the back of a woollen glove showing the three vestiges known as points #if #ib4 ,a modern kid glove showing the fourchettes or pieces between the fingers1 which form three pointed ,v's #ig #ic4 ,queen ,elizabeth's coronation glove1 showing the stitching carried down on to the back4 7,from a photograph by the courtesy of ,messrs4 ,fownes ,brothers and ,co47 #ig #id4 ,the glove of ,anne1 ,queen ,consort of ,james ,i1 showing the embroidery on the fingers1 which is the ancestor of the modern points4 7,from a photograph1 by the courtesy of ,messrs4 ,fownes ,brothers and ,co47 #ii #ie4 ,a silk lace with simple metal tags #aja #if4 ,ornamental metal tags on a velvet neck ribbon #aja #ig4 ,a simple safety-pin #ajb #ih4 ,an ,etruscan brooch or fibula1 resembling a safety-pin4 7,in the collection of ,major ,w4 ,j4 ,myers in ,eton ,college ,museum7 #ajc #ii4 ,the safety-pin in the waistband #ajc #ajj4 ,the safety-pin grown larger and used for fastening on a hat #ajd #aja4 ,a muff-chain #aje #ajb4 ,a hawker1 illustrating the primitive way of carrying a burden #ajg #ajc4 ,a courier-bag supported by a baldric #ajg #ajd4 ,an ornamental baldric of the early fifteenth century4 7,royal ,,ms4 #ae1 ,d4 #e1 after ,fairholt7 #ajh #aje4 ,a lady's dress1 showing the part which is called a yoke1 and recalls a primitive method of carrying burdens #aji #ajf4 ,a loom comb found in the ,glastonbury lake dwellings 7after ,boyd ,dawkins7 #aah #ajg4 ,a modern comb for the hair #aah #ajh4 ,two studs of bronze1 seen from above and from the side1 later ,bronze ,age 7after ,worsaae7 #aai #aji4 ,the flash of five black ribbons on the collar of the ,welsh ,fusiliers4 ,a survival from the days of the pigtail #acd #aaj4 ,the modern groom1 showing the belt to which ladies clung when riding on a pillion #adj #aaa4 ,a footman in plush breeches and with powdered hair4 ,his pouter coat dates from the reign of ,george ,,iii4 ,by the courtesy of ,messrs4 ,f4 ,t4 ,prewett and ,co4 #ada #aab4 ,a sheriff's coachman with the full-skirted coat of the time of ,george ,,ii4 ,by the courtesy of ,messrs4 ,prewett and ,co4 #adb #aac4 ,the wig-bag 7a survival of the bag-wig7 now seen on the back of the collar of the ,lord ,mayor's coachman #adc #aad4 ,a modern page-boy's livery #ade #aae4 ,the ,dutch skeleton dress1 fashionable for boys in #ahbf #ade #aaf4 ,the cockade known as the large treble1 representing a survival of the chaperon #aeb #aag4 ,a treble cockade covered with black cloth for mourning4 ,the concentric circles would appear to represent the twisted liripipe of the chaperon #aed #aah4 ,treble cockade used by ,chelsea pensioners #aee #aai4 ,the ,regent cockade #aee #abj4 ,royal cockade for state occasions #aee #aba4 ,ordinary ,royal cockade #aee #abb4,two stages in the evolution of the chaperon4 ,combined hood and cape #aef #abc4;,enlargement of the peak of the hood to form the liripipe4 7,after ,calthrop1 by kind permission of ,messrs4 ,a4 and ,c4 ,black7 #aef #abd4;,further development of the chaperon4 ,cape and liripipe made into a head-dress that can be altered at will #aeg #abe4;,a chaperon ready made up1 in order to save trouble4 7,after ,calthrop1 by kind permission of ,messrs4 ,a4 and ,c4 ,black7 #aeg #abf4 ,dress worn by the girls at ,coombe ,hill ,school1 ,westerham4 ,it is a modification of the ,dervish ,djibah #agb #abg4 ,dress worn by the girls at the ,croft ,school1 ,betley1 when at work #agc #abh4 ,st4 ,gregory the ,great with his father ,gordianus1 who was a senator1 on his right1 and his mother ,sylvia on his left4 ,this shows the similarity between ecclesiastical and civil costume in early times4 ,from an authentic picture 7after ,marriott7 #ahh #abi4 ,a priest in the vestments now worn at the celebration of the ,eucharist #aid #acj4 ,the coat of arms of ,thomas ,becket1 showing an archbishop's pall #aih #aca4 ,the head-dress of a nun showing the veil and breast-cloth derived from the wimple1 the cap which represents the chin-cloth1 together with the frontal and the hood #bjc #acb4 ,the head-dress of a lady of the time of ,henry ,,ii4 ,the wimple is shown covering the chin and head-bands 7after ,calthrop7 #bjc #acc4 ,the chin-band and forehead strap after the wimple has been removed 7after ,calthrop7 #bjc #acd4 ,hanging sleeve of the fifteenth century #bji #ace4 ,the hanging sleeve of a ,chancellor of ,oxford ,university #baa #acf4 ,a college cap or trencher #bad #acg4 ,cranmer's hat1 illustrating a stage in the evolution of a mortar-board 7after ,fairholt7 #bad #ach4 ,the hat of a bishop of the ,stuart ,period showing a stage at which the stiffening now seen in the mortar-board was becoming necessary 7after ,fairholt7 #bad #aci4 ,the wig of a modern judge #baf #adj4 ,the vestige of the coif from the wig of a serjeant-at-law #bag #ada4 ,a barrister's gown showing the vestigial hood and its streamer4 ,the buttons and braid which once temporarily looped up the sleeves now fix it permanently #bai #adb4 ,a ,yeoman of the ,guard of the present reign #bbd #adc4 ,the wig-bag or flash from a ,court suit1 showing the rosette held away and displaying the black silk bag4 ,at the lower corners of the latter loops are seen1 which are probably the remains of those through which a ribbon was passed1 which went round the neck and fastened on the breast by a brooch #bbi #add4 ,the hood from the mantle of a ,knight of the ,garter1 showing the survival of the chaperon and its liripipe #bcj #ade4 ,relic of chain mail on the shoulder of an ,imperial ,yeoman #bcc #adf4 ,chain mail illustrated by the brass of ,sir ,richard de ,trumpington1 ,a4,d4 #abhi #bcd #adg4 ,a reversion in military equipment4 ,one of ,cromwell's ,ironsides 7#afgi71 from a print4 ,a ,cavalryman sketched at ,aldershot in #aija4 ,copied1 by permission1 from the ,daily ,mail #bcg #adh4 ,the prickers on the shoulder-belt of a ,hussar1 which survive from the time of flint-lock muskets #bci #adi4 ,the ,oscan ,pulicinella of #agca1 without a long nose4 ,the dress is very similar to that figured in #afcj 7after ,riccoboni7 #bef #aej4 ,the ,calabrian ,giangurgolo of #agca1 with the long nose4 ,the dress is very similar to that figured in #afcj 7after ,riccoboni7 #beg #aea4 ,an ancient bronze statuette with the face and features of ,punch 7after ,ficorroni7 #beh #aeb4 ,a fourteenth-century puppet-show 7from the ,,ms4 of the ,roman d',alexandre7 #bei #aec4 ,punch1 from the ,punch and ,judy ,show1 showing the ruff and other details of ,elizabethan costume #bfc #aed4 ,judy1 from the ,punch and ,judy ,show1 with ruff1 mob cap1 and apron #bfc #aee4 ,the ,beadle1 from the ,punch and ,judy ,show #bfd #aef4 ,the ,doctor1 from the ,punch and ,judy ,show1 with wig and white tie #bfd #aeg4 ,a clown1 showing a survival of an ,elizabethan costume #bgj #aeh4 ,the dress of a modern harlequin #bhd #aei4 ,a pantaloon1 showing an ,elizabethan costume of which ,venetian breeches form part #bhe #afj4 ,the bands that survive on a lady's nightdress #bhi #afa4 ,a woman's nightcap1 still worn in ,wiltshire #bhi #afb4 ,a man's nightcap1 from ,oxfordshire #bij #afc4 ,an ,english horse amulet in the form of a crescent4 ,the flat places near the tips of the horns are evidence that the form is derived from two boars' tusks #bid #afd4 ,an ,english horse amulet showing both the heart and the sun #bif #afe4 ,the cowry-shell ornaments on the head of an officer's charger of the #ajth ,hussars4 ,the pendant recalls that on mules in ,palestine #bih #aff4 ,cowry shells on an ,eastern mule1 hanging like the pendant of the #ajth ,hussars #bii #afg4 ,cowry shells on the head-stall of a camel from ,palestine #bii #afh4 ,a ,merveilleuse 7after ,a4 ,robida7 #cde #afi4 ,a modern family1 consisting of the average-sized mother1 the taller daughter1 and the puny boy 7from a drawing by ,miss ,audrey ,watson in ,physical ,efficiency1 by ,dr4 ,cantlie1 by kind permission of ,messrs4 ,putnam's ,sons7 #ceg ,i ,,the ,,thrall ,,of ,,dress ,,the ,,principles ,,of ,,evolution ,,applied ,,to ,,clothes ,the numbers in the text refer to a bibliography at the end of the book ,unluckily1 perhaps1 we are born naked and helpless1 but no sooner do we come into the world than we are provided with body-guards in the shape of clothes4 ,in consequence1 our social position is made manifest4 ,our vanity is flattered at the same time that our modesty is assured4 ,on the other hand1 however1 our skin may be chafed1 our hair worn away1 and1 should our equipment strictly follow the dictates of the ,goddess ,fashion1 our bodies may even be deformed and our lives shortened4 ,moreover1 there are other penalties to be paid2 we are kept warm in summer as well as in winter1 the purchase of our attire may entail the spending of much money1 while the mere donning and doffing of our clothes gives rise to a prodigious waste of time4 ,even tramps have at intervals to replace the rags which cover them1 and while1 for all practical purposes1 every one else takes off his clothes when going to bed and puts them on again when getting up1 many of those who are at work in the daytime dress for dinner in the evening4 ,moreover1 ,society may demand a further expenditure of time on the part of its members1 and the rule may be laid down that the higher the standing of a civilized individual1 the more often does he change his garments4 ,in fact1 more than one monarch1 from the way in which he appears in different uniforms at various functions which follow one another in quick succession1 has been likened to the now familiar lightning change artist of the music-hall stage4 ,it is thus quite clear that all of us are more or less under the thrall of dress4 ,those1 therefore1 who find the position irksome1 will gain solace from the interesting investigations which can be made into the origin and development of costume4 ,others1 again1 whose clothes already find favour in their eyes1 will enjoy looking at them from a different point of view4 ,as a matter of fact1 our artificial coverings have become so much a part of our life that one may perhaps be allowed to apply the methods of the naturalist to their consideration1 and deal with them as if they were part and parcel of the creature which wears them4 ,darwin established beyond a doubt#a that the plants and animals of to-day are the direct descendants of older and often very different forms1 and it is the task and delight of the naturalist to trace their genealogies4 ,most useful suggestions may be obtained from the small vestiges that remain in the bodies of present-day creatures1 of structures which in early times were important and useful organs4 ,for instance1 if the skin be lifted from the head of a slow worm we find a third eye1 which tells us that once its ancestors1 like the giant ,cyclops1 were able to look out from the middle of their faces4 ,again1 to take a case which applies to ourselves1 and has a melancholy interest for us1 one might mention the vermiform appendix4 ,this is a remnant of a great sac which once was useful when our ancestors were vegetarians2 now it is worse than useless1 for it is very liable to become irritated and give rise to what is known as appendicitis4 ,so long as a quarter of a century ago ,sir ,george ,darwin pointed out#b that the great theory of evolution established by his father could be applied with much advantage to the study of dress1 and it will be seen as we proceed that not the least fascinating part of the subject are vestiges similar to those which we have just described1 and which have often survived solely for ornamental reasons4 ,many of these are so familiar1 that in running the eye in the ordinary way over a man's usual costume1 attention would not be drawn to them4 ,there is the band round the outside of his hat and the little bow inside2 the nick in the collar of his coat and the more or less useless buttons on his sleeves and back2 while we must not forget the curious ornamentation on the toes of his boots1 nor the crest on his signet ring4 ,when1 however1 an indication is given of the times and peoples to which these trivialities can be made to carry us back1 interest is aroused to a remarkable degree4 ,it can also be well maintained1 for other clothes present similar quaint survivals for investigation1 while the evolution of many individual garments is worth following1 and special costumes have been handed down to the present day1 practically unchanged4 ,fortunately1 the student of dress is in a much better position than the naturalist proper4 ,the evidence available when the history of an organism in past ages is being unravelled1 is very scanty in many cases4 ,sometimes the fossil remains recovered from the earth are very perfect and follow one another in unbroken succession1 but they usually consist merely of the hard parts of the creatures4 ,the individual development of an organism is also a help1 but when the changes which have taken untold ages to perfect1 are repeated1 as in the case of the chicken in the egg1 within the space of a few short weeks1 it is not surprising that much is left out and obscured4 ,man has existed in a civilized condition for a comparatively short time1 and there remain all kinds of records and illustrations1 not to mention actual clothes themselves1 which can be consulted or examined4 ,moreover1 primitive men in almost every stage of culture are1 or were till quite lately1 to be found somewhere in the world1 and much can be gleaned from them as to the origin and uses of costume4 ,there is a point that may be borne in mind when seeking for curiosities of clothing1 and it is that the more special or ceremonial the occasion1 the more ancient or more primitive the costume which is worn4 ,in this connection also it may be mentioned that the dress of the master of one generation may survive as that of the servant in another4 ,,ii ,,the ,,origin ,,of ,,dress ,both he and his people were black as sloes ,for the region they lived in was torrid1 ,and their principal clothes were a ring through the nose ,and a patch of red paint on the forehead4 ,,thomas ,,hood ,,the ,,younger4 ,in seeking the origin of dress we necessarily assume that once upon a time our primitive ancestors did not wear any clothes at all4 ,even nowadays1 in our own country1 at sports1 in the ball-room1 and on the stage1 the garments worn1 or some of them1 may be reduced to the minimum that the rules of ,society appear to demand4 ,there are1 moreover1 two reasons why very early man did not trouble to dress3 first of all1 he was covered with hair like the majority of mammals2 and1 secondly1 it is more than probable that his home was within the tropics4 7,see ,plate ,i41 ,frontispiece47 ,the two ideas are quite compatible1 for all the great apes--chimpanzee1 orang-utan1 and gorilla--which are the nearest relatives of man1 have been found in the warmer regions of the world1 and are well supplied with hair4 ,it has long been thought that the cradle of mankind is to be looked for in the south of ,asia1 and it is a striking fact that of recent years the bones of the earliest known creature that can with certainty be called a man 7,pithecanthropus erectus7 were discovered in ,java4#c ,at the same time it appears that ,pithecanthropus1 although it walked erect1 approximated more closely to the apes than does any more recent human being1 and in making a restoration of the type in question1 one would feel bound to endow it with a coat of hair4 ,this has since been lost1 and1 according to ,darwin1 owing to sthetic reasons1 the members of one sex having chosen as mates those of the other who were the least hairy4 ,man also has found his way into most parts of the globe1 but he has not always acted with regard to dress in the same way in similar climates4 ,the problem1 therefore1 which we have set ourselves to solve1 proves to be less simple than it appeared at the outset1 for great use may be made of clothes in one cold country and not in another1 while they may be unknown in certain parts of the tropics1 and adopted elsewhere within their radius4 ,very often when it is sought to explain a matter1 it is found that this can be done in two or three different ways1 and it is quite possible that all of them may be correct4 ,this fact may with advantage be borne in mind when seeking for the reasons which lead to the adoption of dress1 for the first time1 by any particular race4 ,perhaps it will help us if we pause for a moment to consider why clothes are worn at the present day4 ,there is no doubt but that in the case of many garments their ornamental character1 real or supposed1 is the first consideration4 ,others are chosen chiefly for protection and warmth1 while1 as already indicated1 the rest suffice to satisfy the claims of modesty4 ,although the three reasons are now intimately combined1 it is practically certain that any one of them is sufficient to have led to the adoption of clothes in the first place1 and as if these were not enough there may be other contributing1 if not actual causes4 ,we may now consider these matters in detail4 ,it would seem from the study of modern peoples1 who are still in a very simple state of civilization1 as well as from one of the earliest drawings scratched by the cave-men who were contemporary with the mammoth in ,france1 that ornaments are the most primitive part of dress4 7,see ,figure #a and ,plate ,,ii47 ,illustration3 ,a ,,woman ,,and ,a ,,witch ,,doctor ,,of ,,central ,,africa1 ,,shewing ,,the ,,part ,,that ,,ornaments ,,may ,,play ,,even ,,when ,,clothing ,,is ,,of ,,the ,,scantiest4 7,from a photograph by ,captain ,ford47 ,,plate ,,ii4 ,generally speaking1 the more simple the race1 the greater is its love of ornament4 ,the cave-man's sketch shows a woman who is devoid of clothing1 but who wears bracelets1 while it is said that in the original a necklace can be traced1 though owing to an injury to the fragment of bone on which the drawing was made1 the head of the figure has been lost4 ,on the ,west ,coast of ,africa1 where clothes are not a necessity owing to the heat1 bracelets are worn in such numbers by the native belles as to cover a large part of the forearm1 while anklets rise in succession nearly to the knee4 7,see ,plate ,,ii47 ,again1 in ,new ,guinea the women of some tribes who do not indulge in a single scrap of clothing1 still wear ornaments on their heads and round their necks4 ,illustration3 ,,figure #a4--;,drawing of a woman engraved by a cave-man4 7,modified from ,wilson47 ,there is1 however1 something to be advanced on behalf of savages that cannot be said for white people who bedizen themselves with jewellery1 or bedeck themselves with the feathers of rare and beautiful birds4 ,uncivilized people have no pockets nor safes in which to keep their valuables1 and it comes about that these take a form which permits them to be worn on the person1 so that many of the objects which take the place of ornaments--such as teeth1 shells1 and beads--serve as the currencies of their owners4 ,even now there are individuals of whom it is said that they put all their money on their backs1 but1 unfortunately for them1 it depreciates sadly in value1 and cannot be turned to account at a moment's notice4 ,furthermore1 one naked warrior is very much like another1 and chiefs1 in order that they may easily be identified1 have come to wear certain ornaments just as at the other extreme with regard to covering1 knights in full armour carried crests on their helmets and other devices on their surcoats and shields4 ,clothes proper are of later origin1 and1 as we have already mentioned1 would only be adopted for protective purposes after man had lost the greater part of his hairy covering4 ,it is probable that this had happened before the earliest settlers arrived in this country1 although the cave-men made their drawings of themselves in the nude1 and it is contended that the marks on their bodies are similar to those in the drawings of animals and are not mere attempts at shading1 but indicate the presence of hair4 ,in the first place1 man was a hunter pure and simple1 and his clothes were made from the hairy skins of his quarry4 ,at the present time the ,eskimos are clothed in this way1 and there is little doubt but that they are the descendants of the cave-men1 who made the striking drawings to which we have already alluded4 ,their implements1 stature1 and so forth1 all point this way1 and the fact that their clothes are merely adopted as a protection against the weather1 is shown by the fact that they remove them altogether when in their huts4 ,we have already said that it does not always follow that even when the climate is cold1 complete dress is brought into use4 ,when ,h4,m4,s4 ,beagle visited ,south ,america1 some of the ,tierra del ,fuegians wore only an otter skin or some small scrap about as large as a pocket-handkerchief4 ,it was laced across the breast by strings1 and was shifted from side to side according to the direction of the wind4 ,others1 both men and women1 wore nothing4 ,one of the latter1 who was suckling a recently born child1 came alongside the vessel in a canoe1 and stayed there1 out of pure curiosity1 while the sleet fell and thawed on her naked bosom and on the bare body of her baby4#d ,some races can make very passable clothes by hammering the fibres from the bark of trees into a kind of cloth1 while when men took to husbandry and cultivated plants that produce fibres1 they learned also to spin and weave materials from which to make their garments4 ,the use of furs has always survived to a greater or less extent1 but it is interesting to note that motoring has caused a return to primitive dress as regards external garments1 for in order to withstand the air which is met when the car is in rapid movement1 fur clothes and leather suits have been introduced1 the latter of course being not quite so old in type as the former4 ,it must not be forgotten at this point that climate is not the only enemy that man has had to face1 and that armour was a development of dress1 intended to preserve him from the onslaughts of his own species4 ,we have now noticed two ways in which clothes must have been brought into use1 namely1 as adornments and for protection4 ,we have still to consider the third of the obvious reasons4 ,modesty is a habit1 or one might perhaps call it equally well a fashion1 which is so widespread that some have characterized it as being an instinct1 and have stated quite wrongly that it is universal4 ,the most curious point with regard to the matter is that very different ideas of modesty prevail in various regions of the world1 one part of the body being covered by some people and another by others4 ,besides1 it by no means follows that a naked race is less chaste than one which is clothed4 ,although at the present day races exist where only the men cover themselves1 it is very likely that clothes worthy of the name were first worn by women1 for keen observers have pointed out that men dependent on their skill and speed in the chase would hardly encumber themselves with clothes1 though having comely wives they might deem it advisable for them to be protected from the public gaze4 ,this idea is still carried out in ,eastern countries1 where women cover even the greater part of their faces1 and are usually secluded in a harem4 ,as bearing out1 however1 what we have just said with regard to modesty1 it may be mentioned that the peasant women in ,egypt are perfectly happy so long as their faces and the backs of their heads are covered1 and it is considered even more shameful to expose the latter than the former4 ,the objection made not long ago to the appearance of ,english women in church without hats may be remembered in this connection4 ,painting may often replace clothing1 and members of races accustomed to decorate their bodies in this way1 are much ashamed if they are seen unpainted4 ,tattooing also does away to a great extent with bareness1 and it is obvious that unclothed black men and women never present such a naked appearance as do lighter-coloured races4 ,in fact1 a white man who bathed with a number of coloured people likened himself and his companions to an artificial1 blanched1 and sickly plant among its healthy dark green fellows4 ,doubtless the hair of original man was coloured so as to match his surroundings1 and it seems likely that the tint of his skin was reddish4 ,we have now no need for protective colouration 7except in war time71 and as we do not live in the tropics1 we should gain no advantage from being black2 therefore pigment is but little developed in our skins1 and it has been suggested that clothes sometimes have been adopted by white races for sthetic reasons apart from their development from ordinary ornaments4 ,it seems possible1 too1 that man1 upon realizing that he differed from other animals in having no natural covering1 set about to provide himself with one4 ,there is1 however1 another contributing cause which may have led to the adoption of dress1 and this depends on the action of women themselves4 ,they may put on clothes for reasons of coquetry just as on occasion they may modify or discard them4 ,for instance1 fashion at a moment's notice may obscure one part of the body that hitherto was obvious1 and at the same time emphasize the natural outlines of others which before were hidden4 ,again1 the bare necks and arms displayed in our ball-rooms afford another case in point4 ,,iii ,,development ,,of ,,the ,,modern ,,coat ,,the ,,ancestral ,,shawl--,,problematical ,,buttons ,now that we have considered the origin of dress as a whole1 we may turn with advantage to the evolution of individual garments4 ,people are very often pleased to allude to what are called the vagaries of fashion1 but it is curious to notice how little real change is made in costume at the present time4 ,the really useful characters are always retained1 and our modern clothes can be reduced to a very few types4 ,a skirt is a skirt whether it falls naturally1 is held out all round with a hoop1 or crinoline1 or is only supported behind by what at one time was known as an improver4 ,and in the same way it may be said that trousers remain trousers whether they have bell bottoms or are peg tops4 ,even types which we recognize as being quite distinct1 are often so closely related as to cause surprise when their family history is made known4 ,although it constantly alters as regards details1 which from a constructional point of view are quite unimportant1 woman's dress does not seem to have varied to any very great extent4 ,consequently1 there are not quite so many curious features to be seen as in the ordinary clothes or uniforms of men4 ,on the other hand1 however1 we may with greater reason hope to find that some primitive characters have survived until the present day4 ,no article of clothing could well be simpler than the shawl1 and though there is an art in its arrangement1 the only point in its structure that would appear to invite attention is the presence of a fringe on only two sides4 ,this seems to be a small matter1 but it takes us straight back to the time when men had ceased to be hunters merely1 and having become agriculturists had learned1 as we have already indicated1 to weave fibres with the help of simple looms4 ,from the cloth thus made clothes were constructed1 though skins continued to be used as outer mantles4 ,when the stuff was taken from these early looms1 the threads of the warp were left hanging from two opposite edges1 and the fringe that we have now on our shawls is a direct survival of this accidental occurrence4 ,there seems not the slightest doubt but that we can trace the coat from the shawl4 ,a simple improvement in the latter is to join two edges of the shawl together and make a tunic4 ,such a tubular garment was used in ,greece1 and1 with some slight modifications1 is worn by ,egyptian women to-day4 ,it came up to the armpits1 was gathered up on to each shoulder and fastened with two brooches4 7,figure #b47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4--,sketch showing the development of the tunic4 ,in this stage it has no arms4 ,the next stage in development would be a sleeved tunic1 and how easily this could be derived from a shawl can be seen by putting a narrow one over the shoulders and lifting up the arms as shown in ,figure #c4 ,the material has only to be sewn together under the arms1 and if necessary cut into shape4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4--;,diagram showing the way in which a sleeved tunic is derived from the shawl4 ,if the front be not sewn up1 we get the coat as we know it2 if the edges be joined along half their length or more1 then we have a sleeved tunic1 a shirt1 or vest 7see ,plate ,,iii74 ,the smock-frock 7see ,figure #d7 and gown are more voluminous1 while the jersey is short again1 and has only a small opening at the neck4 ,an interesting garment is found among the costumes of the ,bronze ,age chieftains of ,denmark and their wives1 which have been preserved in the oak coffins of these people1 owing to the action of tannin from the wood which has preserved the woven material4#e ,the article in question belonged to one of the women1 and though the front edges are joined for a short distance1 it is practically a jacket4 ,the sleeves are made all in one piece1 and the garment is very nearly as highly evolved as the ,cardigan jacket1 which it very much resembles4 7,see ,figure #e47 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,silk ,,vest ,,worn ,,by ,,charles ,i ,,on ,,the ,,scaffold4 ,,illustrating ,,the ,,sleeved ,,tunic ,,opening ,,for ,a ,,short ,,distance ,,down ,,the ,,front4 7,from a photograph by ,mr4 ,henry ,stevens47 ,,plate ,,iii4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #d4--;,a smock frock4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #e4--;,jacket of a woman1 made in one piece4 ,bronze stage of culture 7after ,worsaae74 ,it is by this time clear1 that several important garments are the descendants of the shawl1 which is still used by men in the ,british ,isles under the title of the plaid1 or maud4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4--,man's dress showing buttons on the right side4 ,though differing1 of course1 in detail1 the upper garments of men and women agree in general construction4 ,one of the points alluded to is worthy of mention1 namely1 that the buttons on a man's coat are on the right side and the buttonholes on his left1 while in the case of women's attire the exact opposite is found--at least1 so far as one can ascertain--in ,european countries4 ,in the ,east1 the little knobs which are passed through loops and take the place of buttons1 may in the women's dress be on the right side1 and in other ,asiatic costumes the same thing holds good4 ,in connection with this peculiarity1 it may be pointed out that men and women have different ways of doing up buttons4 ,the man takes hold of the button with his right hand1 puts his left thumb into the buttonhole and pushes the button against it4 ,then he pulls the stuff over with his right forefinger and pushes the button through with his right thumb while he guides it with his left4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #g4--,woman's dress showing buttons on the left side4 ,the woman1 on the other hand1 puts her right thumb through the buttonhole1 takes hold of the button with the fingers of the same hand1 and finally1 if the other hand is at liberty1 brings it up to finish the process4 7,see ,figures #f to #aa47 ,to explain the difference in the position of the buttons is not by any means easy4 ,in the correspondence which has arisen out of lectures which the writer has given on the evolution of dress1 it has1 in the first place1 been suggested that the arrangement of his clothing permitted a man to thrust his right and fighting arm into his jacket in order to keep it warm4 ,this explanation1 of course1 does not account for the variation in the case of women4 ,dr4 ,lyman1 of ,baltimore1 has submitted the theory that a man wearing a loose cloak1 toga1 or plaid1 would grasp it with the left hand and thrust the left side over the right so as to leave the right-hand free in order to hold a weapon or implement4 ,a woman would grasp her attire with her right hand1 and push it over the left side and leave her left arm unencumbered1 wherewith to carry a child4 ,it would1 however1 seem more natural for the right side to be pulled over the left1 but it is unlikely that a man would fight in a loose cloak1 and the toga was only worn in times of peace4 ,moreover1 the jacket1 as we have seen1 was developed from the cloak through the tunic4 ,a tunic was worn under the toga1 and as the only loose edge of the latter lies in the same way as the buttonhole side of a man's coat1 it is feasible that the edges of the tunic beneath would for convenience be made to lap the same way4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #h4--;,first stage4 ,,fig4 #i4--,second stage4 ,diagrams showing how a man does up a button4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aj4--;,first stage4 ,,fig4 #aa4--,second stage4 ,diagrams showing how a woman does up a button4 ,to turn to women's dress1 it is customary1 as ,dr4 ,lyman says1 to carry children on the left arm1 and they are allowed to suck the left breast to a greater extent than the other4 ,the left side of a bodice could1 if the right lapped over it1 be pulled back without exposing so much of the person as if the reverse held good1 and in the case of tightly-fitting clothing1 if the buttons have to be done up with the right hand alone1 the task is made easier4 ,another interesting little point of difference between the clothes of the two sexes is1 that while the buttons on a man's wristbands are on the thumb side1 those of a woman are on that which corresponds with the little finger4 ,this arrangement is no doubt correlated with that previously discussed1 but the reason for it is not obvious4 ,,iv ,,buttons ,,as ,,chronicles ,,episodes ,,in ,,the ,,later ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,coat ,,and ,,cuffs ,we have gained some insight into the development of garments as a whole1 and no doubt it is now obvious that the little details of construction will prove by no means the least attractive part of our subject4 ,it has become customary to refer to a button as typifying something of specially small account1 though very often much may depend in practice upon one of these despised articles4 ,we have already shown that the mere position of a few buttons that are still useful1 may raise most curious points1 and in the present chapter we shall proceed to investigate some episodes in the later history of the coat which have left their mark upon it1 to a great extent in the shape of useless buttons4 ,this topic will be dealt with in some detail1 so that it may serve as a guide to those of our readers who may be induced to undertake the fascinating study of survivals in dress4 ,afterwards1 the general survey of modern clothes will be continued1 and here and there lines of research will be indicated1 while some problems will be left for our readers to solve4 ,in the second part of the book1 it is intended to deal with a certain number of costumes which have been handed down to us as they are4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ab4--,the buttons on the back of a policeman's great coat4 ,at the present time there are usually to be seen two buttons on the back of civilians' coats1 except in the case of lounge suits and dinner jackets1 and there may be four or more on the great coats of policemen 7see ,figure #ab7 and on the tunics of some soldiers4 ,the first question which we will endeavour to answer is1 ,why are they there8 ,the two upper buttons in the case of uniforms are now used to support a belt1 and at first sight it looks as if they were originally intended for this purpose4 ,their adoption in other cases might then be put down as a survival from a time when civilians carried swords4 ,unfortunately for this theory1 it can be shown that the sword-belt was not necessarily worn outside the coat 7see ,figures #ah and #ai74 ,we must therefore look round for further evidence1 and we find that those coats which bear the pair of buttons1 have a slit up the middle which gives rise to the skirts or tails4 ,this arrangement carries us back to the time when there were no railways and few conveyances2 when men commonly travelled on horseback and their whole attire was adapted to this end1 so that they were ready for the saddle at a moment's notice4 ,the division in the coat which we are considering1 allowed one tail to fall conveniently on each side of the horse after its rider had mounted it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ac4--,the buttons that close the slit up the back of an ulster4 ,in long overcoats of to-day we find only a short slit1 left for convenience in walking 7see ,figure #ac72 but it has a special interest for us1 as in connection with it there are two or three buttons and buttonholes1 usually hidden1 which allow of the opening being closed up4 ,here1 then1 we have buttons on the back of the coat still serving a useful purpose1 and it is not at all difficult to trace the series of fastenings back to a much longer one1 which in the seventeenth century was quite obvious4 7,see ,figure #ad47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ad4--;,a back view of a seventeenth-century coat showing the buttons and buttonholes4 ,each button and buttonhole was placed in the middle of similar pieces of lace or embroidery1 so that the sides of the coat were made to look symmetrical4 ,the object in view was the keeping of the skirts of the coat together when the wearer was not on horseback4 ,at the present day the buttons have been duplicated and are on both sides of the coat1 and they are still sewn to ornamental pieces in the uniform of the ,grenadier ,guards4 ,the presence of the lower buttons on uniforms and coats is therefore explained4 ,it might be assumed that the topmost button had also been doubled and raised above the slit1 and that in this way we have obtained the two ornaments on the back of our coats4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ae4--,the tab and buttons on the back of a soldier's great coat which make a temporary waist4 ,before accepting such a solution of the problem1 however1 it may be well to see if the buttons may not have had another origin2 and on looking for some clue we find that two folds take their rise from the point where the buttons are situated4 ,these may be expected to throw some light upon the question4 ,the folds are now permanent1 but on a voluminous coat1 such as still used by horse soldiers1 they can be produced temporarily 7see ,figure #ae7 by setting the two buttons further apart and running a tab from one to the other4 ,sir ,george ,darwin has attempted to carry the history of these two buttons still further back4#f ,he has expressed the opinion that each is one of a pair that originally kept in place a small tab at the side of the coat1 and so helped to produce a waist when required4 7,see ,figures #ag and #ah47 ,in some drawings of coats 7see ,figure #ah7 the side tabs and their corresponding buttons are shown in addition to those on the back of the coat4 ,there is1 however1 evidence to show that the buttons were originally on the sides of the coat1 for they are so wide apart as to be to all intents and purposes in that position1 on the uniform overcoats of the ,london ,electric ,tramway drivers4 7,see ,figure #af47 ,they may well represent the topmost buttons of the lateral series1 still found on the overcoat of the members of the ,corps of ,commissionaires4 ,in this case there are three buttons on each side1 of which the middle one is used for fastening the side-pocket4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #af4--,the buttons and tab on a tramway driver's coat4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ag4--;,an eighteenth-century coat with side buttons and tab4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ah4--,side tabs and buttons at the back 7after ,racinet74 ,it is worth while to consider side-pockets1 which in their turn are remnants of lateral openings which were made in coats at the end of the seventeenth and the beginning of the following centuries4 ,the sword-handle conveniently protruded through the left-hand slit1 which1 like its fellow1 ran from the waist to the lower margin of the coat or stopped half-way4 7,see ,figures #ah and #ai47 ,in the latter case1 the arrangement very much resembles the vertical pocket which has become common again of recent years4 7,see ,figure #bj47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ai4--;,a coat worn at the end of the seventeenth-century 7after ,h4 ,bonnart74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bj4--;,a modern coat with side pockets4 ,occasionally a tab1 such as that to which reference has been made1 kept the parts of the coat together2 but often there were buttons and buttonholes1 at least at the upper end of the openings4 ,these survive in several cases1 such as in the overcoat of the commissionaire1 while the pocket is sometimes represented by a mere flap 7see ,figure #ba7 ornamented with buttons as on the livery of certain footmen4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ba4--;,a footman's coat1 modern1 with vestigial pocket flaps4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bb4--;,coat skirts buttoned back 7after ,hogarth74 ,to sum up the matter1 the topmost pair of buttons has come from the fastenings of the side slit and the lower ones from those of the back slit4 ,buttons on the skirt behind have in the meantime had a very intimate connection with the evolution of the swallow-tail coat 7see ,figure #bd74 ,they were used to fasten the corners of the ordinary riding-coat together1 so that the linings should not be injured by the sweat of the horses4 7,see ,figure #bb47 ,mr4 ,deane ,butcher tells me that he can remember this buttoning back being done in the case of his uncle1 when the latter rode to market or to church2 but in this case it was the two uppermost buttons which were again brought into use4 ,at dances the coats were also subjected to similar treatment1 and what at first was a temporary condition afterwards became a permanent one4 ,it is obvious that the turned-back lining would often be of a different colour from the outside of the coat1 and facings on old uniforms1 and in that of the present dress of a lord-lieutenant 7see ,figure #bc7 are derived from the practice of fastening the corners of the coat together4 ,in the swallow-tail the outer corners have been cut right away4 7,see ,figure #bd47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bc4--;,a coat with the skirts buttoned back and showing the lining4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bd4--;,a dress coat with skirts cut away4 ,the buttons1 in the interesting cases which we have described1 have been allowed to remain as part and parcel of our costume on account of their decorative character1 and in a great measure the same is true of those on coat cuffs 7see ,figure #be74 ,in many cases there are proper buttonholes1 and it is possible to undo the sleeve buttons2 but occasionally the arrangement has degenerated and the buttonholes are imitations or only the buttons remain4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #be4--;,a modern coat cuff with buttons4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bf4--,turned-back cuff1 end of seventeenth century 7after ,bonnart74 ,to find an explanation of this feature we shall have to go back again to the seventeenth century1 when so much was expended upon coats that it became advisable to turn back the cuffs out of harm's way4 ,to hold them in position1 series of buttons and buttonholes were devised1 and just as the turning back of the skirts was at first temporary and afterwards came to be done once for all when the coat was made1 so the turned-back cuff grew into a permanent institution4 ,in ,figure #bf the buttons are one above the other as in modern dress1 but in the next two ,figures 7#bg and #bh7 they are horizontal4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bg4--;,a coat sleeve 7after ,hogarth7 with a horizontal row of buttons4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bh4--,sleeve of a coat of the seventeenth century1 reputed to have been worn by ,charles ,i4 ,a survival of this arrangement can still be seen in the coat sleeves of the higher clergy4 ,in ordinary dress1 the turned-back edge of the cuff may now only be represented by a band of braid or a row of stitches2 but in soldiers' uniforms1 an ornamented cuff persists which represents in reality the lining of the sleeve4 ,again1 the turned-back cuff is actually present in the clothes of costermongers1 and has been revived on overcoats to a considerable extent during the last few years4 7,see ,figure #bi47 ,as a rule1 too1 the vertical pocket already described accompanies the turned-back cuff1 as it did some centuries ago4 7,see ,figure #bj47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bi4--,the turned-back cuff on an overcoat1 modern4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cj4--;,a sleeve with vertical buttons and a turned-back cuff as well 7from a uniform1 after ,hogarth74 ,it must not be forgotten that buttons have long been used on narrow sleeves4 ,they are undone when the hand is to be pushed through the cuff1 and afterwards fastened for the sake of warmth or to give a neat appearance4 ,it is therefore possible that the ring of buttons is more properly a survival of the time when cuffs were turned back to preserve them1 and that the vertical row is really of earlier origin4 ,a uniform represented by ,hogarth 7,figure #cj7 shows both the row of buttons and the turned-back cuff1 which seems to be quite independent of them4 ,in this instance we may have the degenerated turned-back cuff and one revived1 shown together4 ,such a case1 we need scarcely point out1 could hardly occur in the case of an animal structure1 for if by a throw back or reversion to type we get a vestigial character once more fully reproduced1 we cannot expect the original structure and the vestige to be shown at the same time4 ,the adoption of buttons more or less for ornament has long been practised4 ,john ,brandon1 who died in the year #acfd1 is shown on his brass 7in the church of ,st4 ,mary1 ,king's ,lynn7 with no less than forty buttons on the sleeves of his undervest1 which has embroidered cuffs and is buttoned to the elbow 7see ,plate ,,iv74 ,we shall1 however1 have something more to say with regard to buttons from this and other points of view as we proceed4 ,illustration3 ,,reproduction ,,of ,a ,,brass ,,to ,,john ,,brandon ,,and ,,his ,,two ,,wives1 ,,in ,,the ,,church ,,of ,,st4 ,,mary1 ,,king',s ,,lynn4 ,,date #acfd4 ,,on ,,the ,,male ,,figure ,a ,,continuous ,,row ,,of ,,buttons ,,runs ,,from ,,the ,,wrist ,,to ,,the ,,elbow ,,of ,,the ,,under ,,vest4 ,,the ,,women ,,wear ,,the ,,wimple ,,and ,,the ,,gorget ,,or ,,throat ,,cloth4 ,,plate ,,iv4 ,an interesting case of superfluous buttons on the front of clothes is to be seen in the case of the short jackets of the postilions1 belonging to ,his ,majesty the ,king4 ,there is a useful row down the middle which closes the garment1 and two ornamental rows which start from each shoulder and curve downwards towards the middle row4 ,these are probably vestiges of buttons that were once of use1 and to seek an explanation it might be well to study some uniforms of the past4 ,we shall find that in the eighteenth century it was customary to button back the revers of the uniform coat1 as in the case of the ,french coast-guard officer of #agge4 7,see ,figure #ca47 ,fashion afterwards decreed that the coats should be fastened again with hooks1 but the two rows of buttons remained4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ca4--,the uniform of a coast-guard officer of #agge 7after ,racinet74 ,in the coat of the postilion there is no trace of the revers which showed the lining1 and were consequently of a different colour from the rest of the coat4 ,we find1 however1 in the peculiar uniform of the ,lancers that there are the two side rows of buttons1 to which is fastened a red front4 ,this appears to represent the two revers combined4 ,in the present year1 #aijg1 a number of ladies' dresses are to be seen in which the revers trimmed with a different material from the dress are buttoned back against the latter4 ,in some ceremonial dresses and uniforms there are cross stripes on the breast 7see ,figure #fa7 which1 it has been pointed out1 represent series of buttonholes which have become hypertrophied1 and are now exaggerated beyond recognition4 ,the braid on the cuff of the ,london ,scottish ,volunteers seems also to represent buttonholes4 ,such features as turned-back cuffs occur in women's clothes1 and1 as we have seen1 the arrangement of buttons may be copied from masculine attire4 ,in other cases buttons seem to appear which have1 it would seem1 no hereditary right to their position2 but it may be well1 before dismissing them1 to see whether they have not a pedigree4 ,we might cite the case of the buttons that are sewn on to the frocks a little below the knee4 ,they are often at the head of a plait1 and it would be worth while to look into their history4 ,v ,,collars ,,and ,,bands ,,nicks ,,in ,,coat ,,lapels--,,the ,,why ,,and ,,wherefore ,,of ,,the ,,white ,,shirt ,,front ,let us carry on our work of dissecting the clothes of a modern man1 and as we once more survey our subject1 we may glance a little higher than heretofore1 until our eyes rest upon the collar of his coat4 ,this structure passes into the lapels1 and at the point of junction there is a curious nick which is repeated in the waistcoat if this be similarly provided with lapels4 7,see ,figure #cb47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cb4--,the nicks in the coat and waistcoat4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cc4--;,a stage when the nick was useful 7,lucien ,bonaparte1 after ,paul ,lacroix74 ,there is always a temptation to invent some interesting theory in order to explain the origin of vestiges1 and a penny paper1 which hardly boasts of scientific accuracy1 not long ago informed its readers that the slit in the coat lapel is the outcome of a unique and beautiful custom among the orthodox ,jews1 for in former days1 when death visited a ,jew's household1 he cut the lapel of his coat4 ,it was undoubtedly a custom of the ,jews to rend their garments1 but it does not1 on the face of it1 seem likely that the practice would have influenced modern costume4 ,it would appear1 however1 that the slit in the lapel has a much more prosaic origin1 and owes its existence rather to a practical requirement than to a sentimental observance4 ,when the collar of a coat is made to stand up1 it is absolutely necessary that a piece should be cut out of the cloth1 or the lapel will not lie down4 ,in the exaggerated garment of which we give an illustration 7see ,figure #cc7 this need is most manifest2 but a moment's thought will show that the provision must be made1 even if the collar be small4 ,a trifling experiment will indicate that at the present day the cut is not usually made deep enough to allow of the collar being turned up without disturbing the lapels4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cd4--,the toothpick on a dress coat4 ,another remarkable variation is to be found in the collars of some dress suits4 ,a little point is left on the collar known to tailors as the toothpick1 which runs across the nick into the lapel 7see ,figure #cd74 ,this structure is probably a survival of some particular kind of collar4 ,it might be pointed out here that the facings and collar that are of silk or velvet represent the lining of the coat which came into view when the collar was turned down and the lapels turned back4 ,the case is quite similar to that of the cuffs on uniforms1 and to be quite consistent1 the whole coat should be lined with what is usually used now only as a kind of trimming4 ,it is but a short step from the features that we have been discussing1 to the linen collar and the shirt front4 ,the cutting away of the outer garment to bring the shirt into view is a relic of the time when only those who were very well to do could afford to wear linen1 and they showed it1 in order to indicate their social position1 or at any rate their financial resources4 ,at the same time1 the women cut their dresses low so as to show their underlinen2 and not content with this1 they further1 at the end of the thirteenth century1 slit their gowns from the armpits to the hips4 ,the openings thus made were laced across1 so that the linen garments beneath could easily be seen4 ,the white shirt has long survived1 and in spite of its depreciated value has up to quite recently posed as a badge of respectability4 ,now at last there are signs that its sway is over1 and that soon it will come to be only a garment of ceremony4 ,the linen collar of to-day is quite a small affair compared with some of its forerunners4 ,an interesting relic is to be seen in the two little linen flaps which we call bands 7see ,figure #ce74 ,these are still worn by preachers in conjunction with the ,geneva gown1 by barristers1 and by ,blue-coat boys 7see ,figure #cf71 and we can easily trace their relationship to the collar4 ,until a few years ago the choristers at ,jesus ,college1 ,cambridge1 wore a peculiar collar which ended in two flaps much resembling bands1 and the descent of this from the large structures which were called falling bands is not difficult to trace4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ce4--,modern bands4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cf4--;,a blue-coat boy's bands4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cg4--;,a chorister of ,jesus ,college1 ,cambridge1 showing the collar worn until recently4 7,from a photograph by the courtesy of ,mr4 ,h4 ,austin ,wheaton47 ,the portrait of ,jan ,steen1 which we reproduce1 shows bands which are less stiff and formal1 but of ampler proportions4 7,see ,figure #ch47 ,going a little further back1 we find the collar that covered the shoulders1 such as ,milton wore1 and which is shown in our picture of ,john ,pym4 7,see ,figure #ci47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ch4--;,a stage in the reduction of the bands 7portrait of ,jan ,steen from the ,illustrated ,magazine of ,art74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ci4--;,full-sized bands 7portrait of ,john ,pym from the ,illustrated ,magazine of ,art74 ,at this point we may pause to recall a simple article which is known as a bandbox1 but which has been diverted from its original purpose of holding bands1 and is now commonly used as a receptacle for hats4 ,though not itself part of dress1 the bandbox furnishes an interesting instance of adaptation to circumstances4 ,it was well suited to contain articles of dress other than those for which it was primarily intended1 and hence it has survived in the struggle for existence4 7,see ,figure #dj47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dj4--;,a modern bandbox1 now used for hats4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #da4--;,bands that survive at the present day4 ,we must not1 however1 jump to the conclusion that bands are now only represented by vestiges1 for they are still to be seen in their full glory on very small boys 7see ,figure #da71 and the writer recalls a lad of fourteen or so who had reached the dignity of trousers who wore the same kind of collar4 ,as he also had a trencher1 or in common parlance1 a mortar-board1 it is possible that he was not an isolated survival1 but belonged to some school which adopted a special costume4 ,as linen collars are one of the articles of dress in regard to which the wearer is allowed in a great measure to follow his own taste1 it is not surprising that a great many forms have from time to time been invented4 ,quite a number are still to be seen here and there1 while the development of the more fashionable shapes one from the other would1 in itself1 form a chapter in the ,evolution of ,dress4 ,the clerical collar may be singled out1 as it fastens behind like the bands1 though the reason for this is not at all obvious4 ,in recalling the great ruffs and expanded collars of ,queen ,elizabeth's reign1 one may be inclined to smile at the lengths to which a fad may be carried1 and the curious1 not to say monstrous1 structures that are its culminations4 ,these1 like the huge creatures of bygone ages1 die out1 but differ in this respect that they sometimes revive for a time4 ,for instance1 only a few years have passed since the collars of ladies' mantles stood up round the back of their heads2 but as the collars usually lacked the decoration and colour of the ,elizabethan period1 they appeared as if they were intended merely to keep the draught from the necks of their wearers1 and they did not last for long4 ,,vi ,,vestiges ,,in ,,the ,,hat ,,how ,,hats ,,were ,,evolved--,,why ,,plumes ,,are ,,on ,,the ,,left ,,side--,,the ,,growth ,,of ,,the ,,busby--,,helmets ,,and ,,cocked ,,hats ,those who have written upon dress from an artistic point of view have recognized that costume and architecture are affected by the same influences4 ,when we come to the hat1 we find that its name is connected with a building of a primitive character1 namely1 a hut4 ,mr4 ,allan ,poe ,newcombe1 an architect1 some years ago pointed out the curious resemblance which has existed1 and is still to be found in many countries1 between headgear and habitations or other buildings4#g ,it may be that the cases which have been collected together are mere coincidences1 though it must be allowed that they are both numerous and striking4 ,it may be that the same taste1 or lack of it1 has given rise to the similarity of style1 or in the beginning1 the designer of the hat may have taken the hut as a model4 ,in the ,hawaiian ,islands1 long before the inhabitants troubled about clothes1 they built themselves grass houses1 and at the present time the characteristic ,hawaiian hat is remarkably like the hut4 ,the turbans of ,eastern ,church dignitaries are still of the same shape as those worn by the high priests among the ,jews1 and are remarkably like the characteristic dome which surmounts a mosque4 7,see ,figure #db47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #db4--,the turban of a ,jewish priest 7after ,kitto7 compared with the dome of the ,mosque of ,omar4 ,looking about in other countries we shall find further instances that support ,mr4 ,newcombe's contention2 our illustration of a ,siamese head-dress and building is a case in point4 7,see ,figure #dc47 ,again going back into ,european history1 we find that the high pointed spires of ,gothic churches were cotemporaneous with the high horn-like head-dress known as the hennin 7see ,figure #dd74 ,it is claimed1 moreover1 that like results will be found after a comparison of other styles of architecture with the costume of the period in which they flourished4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dc4--;,a ,siamese head-dress and a ,pra ,pang or ,votive spire 7after ,p4,a4 ,thompson74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dd4--;,a ,gothic spire 7,st4 ,stephen's1 ,caen7 compared with the hennin 7the latter after ,fairholt74 ,leaving this suggestive line of research1 and coming to hats as we have them at the present day1 we find that they offer several remarkable vestiges for our consideration4 ,first of all there is the hat-band outside1 which sometimes ends in two tails or streamers that hang from the back of the hat 7see ,figure #dg74 ,from the bow usually present it is evident that the hat-band was tied1 and the streamers represent the loose ends4 ,as a matter of fact1 primitively1 a head-dress was made from a piece of cloth1 round which a fillet was tied so that it fitted the head4 ,in this connexion ,figure #de is most interesting4 ,it represents the back view of the head of the ,egyptian woman of the ,sixth ,dynasty1 who is seen in ,figure #gf1 and shows a head-dress which is confined with a fillet that is tied at the back so as to make two tails4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #de4--;,band with streamers fastening on the head-dress of an ,egyptian woman4 ,from a figure of the ,sixth ,dynasty1 ,b4,c4 #cejj4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #df4--;,a lady's head-dress confined with a fillet1 fourteenth century 7after ,viollet le ,duc74 ,the modern ,arab fastens his kefiyeh with a twist of camel's hair without streamers1 and the lady of the fourteenth century1 shown in ,figure #df1 has also an ordinary band4 ,the child's sailor hat and the ,scotch cap are among the modern head coverings which retain the strings 7,figure #di74 ,a twelfth-century head-dress shown in a manuscript 7,figure #dh7 has a great similarity to the ,scotch cap1 as the band forms a kind of binding to the article in both cases1 and there are streamers to both4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dg4--;,a sailor hat with band and streamers4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dh4--;,a twelfth-century head-dress with streamers from a ,,ms4 7after ,viollet le ,duc74 ,the strings or streamers are to be found in many other head coverings1 including the mitres of bishops 7see ,figure #ej74 ,the particular mitre illustrated is that of the ,see of ,durham1 which is distinguished from others in being plumed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #di4--;,a modern ,scotch cap with streamers4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ej4--;,a mitre of the ,see of ,durham showing the strings 7after ,millington74 ,an interesting suggestion as to the origin of the slit in the top of the mitre may be mentioned here4 ,head-dresses were used in very early times which were in the form of a fish's head1 and it has been thought that the slit in the mitre1 so distinctly shown in chess-men1 represents the fish's mouth4 ,on looking at the inside of a modern hat1 a little bow of silk ribbon will usually be found at the back where the two edges of the leather lining meet4 ,here1 again1 is a vestige4 7,see ,figure #ea47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ea4--,small vestigial bow of ribbon in a modern hat4 ,in some hats the ribbon does not simply make the bow1 but it is threaded through a greater or less number of holes in the leather1 though now fulfilling no useful purpose4 7,see ,figure #eb47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eb4--;,a hat with the remains of lacing4 ,in a hunting hat1 however 7see ,figure #ec71 the lacing is continuous round the hat1 and the lining can be made to fit the wearer4 ,it helps to form a buffer1 should the huntsman unfortunately fall on his head1 and it is claimed that many lives have been saved by this small detail4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ec4--;,a hunting hat with complete lacing inside4 ,it may be gathered from the description that in times when hats could not easily be got to fit their wearers1 the lacing inside would be most useful1 as it ensured that the size could be adjusted4 ,it is possible also that in the lacing we have a means by which a hat was originally shaped1 and that the lace is really a hat-band threaded through the material of the head-dress instead of being tied round outside4 ,the first diagram on page #eg shows a flat piece of leather cut into a circular form2 the next shows it perforated and a lace put through the openings2 the third indicates how by tightening the string a crown could be made to the hat4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ed4--;,a disc of leather4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ee4--,the disc perforated and the lace inserted4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ef4--,the lace tightened to form a crown4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eg4--,the ends of the lace tied as a bow inside4 ,in time1 when the crown was made in different ways1 it would be easy to transfer the lacing to the lining as seen already in the hunting hat 7,figure #ec74 ,it is interesting to note that a small bow is also found inside ladies' hats1 and often used as a place on which to put the name of the maker4 7,see ,figure #eh47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eh4--;,a bow fastened to the lining of a lady's hat4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ei4--,plumes on the left side4 ,sir ,george ,darwin has shown why plumes are1 and used to be1 on the left side of a hat only4 ,in the days when the feathers were particularly long there was also plenty of fighting1 and it only needs the attention to be drawn to the point1 to make one realize that if the plume had been on the right side1 it might often have got in the way of a sword and thereby caused the overthrow or even death of its wearer4 ,at the present day in the army 7see ,figure #ei71 the plumes will be found on the left side as in the days of cavaliers4 ,sir ,george ,darwin#h has traced the origin of the busby1 and has shown that the little red flap that hangs on the left side as a useless appendage is really the original cap4 ,busbies were the special attributes of the ,hussars1 who were originally ,hungarian soldiers4 ,it is the peasant's cap of ,hungary that is the forerunner of the military head-dress which we are considering1 and it consisted of a red cap of cloth with a band of fur round the edge4 ,as time went on1 the fur on the cap1 which was adopted in the end by various regiments1 became wider and wider1 and the original red cap got smaller and smaller until the form of the modern busby was reached4 ,in some cases even the flap already mentioned has gone1 though the fact that the top of the busby is made of cloth instead of fur still points to its origin4 7,see ,figures #fj and #fa47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fj4--,the red ,hungarian cap1 which was the forerunner of the busby4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fa4--;,a busby 7of the ,honourable ,artillery ,company7 in which the cap is a vestige only4 ,though we are not discussing armour at the moment1 we may say while speaking of military head-dresses that metal helmets are still in use in a few regiments4 ,the helmet also of the fireman deserves attention1 as it is practically of the same type as that worn by the ancient ,greeks4 7,see ,figure #fb47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fb4--;,a fireman's helmet 7of the ancient ,greek type74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fc4--;,buttons so arranged that the broad brim of a hat can be fastened to the crown1 thus forming a temporary cock 7,hudibras after ,hogarth74 ,the cocked hat should also claim our attention1 and it gives us another instance of temporary alterations which have ultimately become permanent4 ,the picture of ,hudibras shows an early stage in the history of cocking4 ,the strings which connect the brim of a bishop's tall hat to the crown are evidently connected with this practice4 ,in the modern cocked hat more of the right side is turned up than of the left4 ,a little careful examination will render its development from the broad-brimmed hat easily understood1 while the representatives of the hat-band and the details of the cocking will be soon discovered4 ,the cock of the hat formed a convenient spot in which to fix an ornament1 and the name cockade has come to be applied to such an addition1 borne on the hat1 as a mark to distinguish the wearer4 ,the part which cockades have played in history is considerable1 but as they are now chiefly associated with the liveries of men-servants they will be considered later on in the book4 ,before1 however1 we leave1 for the present1 the subject of head coverings1 we ought to mention that a piece of woven material as primitively used without even a restraining band1 still survives in the shape of the small shawl which north-country girls and women very generally wear over their heads4 ,the head-dress of the nun is another case in point1 and recalls that in vogue in ,tudor times1 while the sun-bonnet of the barge and market women1 though more highly developed1 still consists to a considerable extent of simple drapery4 ,,vii ,,shoes ,,and ,,stockings ,,early ,,foot-,,gear--,,the ,,origin ,,of ,,the ,,clock--,a ,,modern ,,imitation ,,of ,,tattooing--,,gaily ,,coloured ,,garters ,many persons still go barefoot1 so that ancient as foot-gear may be1 the stage preceding its adoption is even now represented4 ,moreover1 sandals1 which are very primitive1 have been much in use of recent years1 and have especially been worn by children4 ,if we turn to ordinary boots and shoes we shall not find many obvious points about them which lead up to their history4 ,still we shall see in the case of a large number that in places where one piece of leather laps over another1 it is perforated with rows of holes which form a kind of simple ornamentation4 7,see ,figure #fd47 ,the perforations do not go through the boot or shoe1 and in a ,roman example in the ,british ,museum1 which is much more highly decorated1 there are two thicknesses of leather1 of which the outer one only is pierced4 7,see ,figure #fe47 ,in many cases1 however1 the ,roman shoe was truly of open work4 ,it consisted of but one thickness of leather1 and from this1 large pieces were cut out so as to make a kind of lattice4 ,several examples of this kind of shoe are exhibited at the ,british ,museum1 and we give an illustration of one of these1 which is in a very fair state of preservation4 7,see ,figure #ff47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fd4--;,a modern boot decorated with perforations made in the leather4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fe4--;,an ornamented ,roman shoe1 of two thicknesses4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ff4--;,a ,roman shoe of open-work leather4 ,it seems very probable that the ornamentation on our modern shoes is a survival of the open work which was in favour with the ,romans1 especially as even then the apertures did not always expose the foot4 ,in pre-,roman times in this country there were perforations in some of the shoes which were useful rather than ornamental1 and one type 7of which a specimen figured by ,fairholt is preserved by the ,royal ,irish ,academy7 has survived until recently1 if it is not to be found to-day1 in ,scotland and ,ireland4 ,this shoe was made of raw hide 7see ,figure #fg71 and the holes1 it is said1 were intended to allow the water to pass through when the wearer was crossing morasses4 ,an examination of the figure will1 however1 show that the holes are really slits1 and it would appear that however useful they may have proved in the way described1 they were originally made for quite a different reason4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fg4--;,a hide shoe of pre-,roman type from ,ireland 7after ,fairholt74 ,the most primitive kind of shoe would doubtless be a piece of hide placed under the foot and brought up over the toes and round the heel4 ,it would make a rather unprepossessing bundle1 and there would be awkward puckers where the hide was gathered up4 ,if the superfluous material at the toe were cut away1 we should have a slit in every case where there had previously been a fold4 ,this state of affairs is exactly what is to be seen in the ,irish shoe1 where the strips of leather that are left are held in place by a thong4 ,in an ingenious way1 apparently with the help of the same lace1 the difficulty of securing a fit at the heel has also been got over4 ,the result is a very neat shoe indeed1 though in reality it is only the original flat piece of hide4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fh4--,the original top boot with the upper part temporarily turned down4 ,one of the most perfect instances of vestiges1 as ,sir ,george ,darwin points out1 is afforded by top boots4 ,in their original form1 still to be seen in our streets on sewer men1 the boots were made to come above the knee1 but fashion decreed that the top should be turned back 7see ,figure #fh71 and so it came about that the inside became visible1 as did also the tags1 with the help of which the boots were pulled on4 ,when the outside of the boots was blacked it would form a distinct contrast to the inside1 which remained brown1 and in modern top boots the difference in colour has been in many cases greatly accentuated4 ,indeed1 the upper parts are made of different leather1 and as ordinary coat cuffs are now incapable of being turned down1 the tops of the boots are immovable and cannot be turned up4 ,it is curious1 however1 that the tags at the sides are still represented and sewn to the boot so as to be quite useless1 while new tags placed inside the boot now do their duty4 7,see ,figure #fi47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fi4--;,a modern top boot in which the upper part can no longer be turned up4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gj4--,puttees4 ,socks and stockings are1 at the present time1 the most usual coverings for the lower parts of the legs1 and there is at least one vestige which remains in their structure that has an interest for us4 ,before we consider this1 however1 we may look at another means of protecting the lower extremities which tells of more primitive conditions4 ,the leg bandages so commonly worn by our regular soldiers and volunteers are the case in point4 7,see ,figure #gj47 ,these appear to have been immediately derived from the ,indian ,army1 and their name--puttees--is evidence of this2 but such an arrangement is very widespread1 and was that generally adopted in this country in ,anglo-,saxon times4 ,our illustration is taken from an illuminated manuscript prepared for ,st4 ,aethelwold for use at ,winchester1 which was completed between the years #ifc and #ifd ,a4,d4 ,bandaged stockings are common on representations of ,anglo-,saxons1 but according to ,fairholt the example given shows them to greater advantage than does any other known4 ,the figure in question is dressed in royal costume1 and the bandages1 which are of gold1 are fastened just below the knee with a knot from which hang tassels4 7,see ,figure #ga47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ga4--,leg bandages of a royal personage at the end of the tenth century 7after ,fairholt74 ,it has been thought that leg bandages were originally derived from the haybands which peasants wrap round their legs1 and the writer has seen it stated that ostlers in this country still perpetuate the ,anglo-,saxon fashion1 though he has never met with an actual instance4 ,the pfiferari who some years ago used to play on bagpipes and other primitive instruments in our streets1 wore leg bandages or loose linen stockings1 and these were cross-gartered with bands which held in place a simple sandal made of a piece of leather4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gb4--;,a stocking with clocks4 ,the vestige in modern stockings to which allusion has been made is very often present1 and takes the form of the ornament which we know as a clock4 ,the name signifies a gusset1 and in modern socks and so on1 which are woven or knitted all in one piece1 no such arrangement is to be found4 ,stockings1 however1 like those at first worn by ,queen ,elizabeth1 and used at least by ,american settlers until the year #afge1 were made up from pieces of cloth4 ,in these there would be seams down the sides1 and it is possible that where the ornamental lines meet in ,figure #gb there may have been a gusset4 ,in any case1 it is evident that the intention of the clock was to hide the side seams4 ,of recent years1 when ladies have most sensibly adopted short skirts1 the clock has developed into a series of embroidered patterns which cover the front of the foot and ankle4 ,the parentage of these is quite evident from the shape1 which is shown in ,figure #gc4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gc4--;,an embroidered stocking showing the further evolution of the clock 7date #aijj74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gd4--;,an open-work stocking of #aije4 ,this ornamentation has been carried still further1 though it is not produced in the same way4 ,the patterns1 instead of being embroidered1 are the result of perforations1 or1 in more technical language1 open-work1 and the background which shows up the design is no longer the material of the stockings1 but the skin of their fair wearers4 7,see ,figure #gd47 ,in many cases the stockings are dark in colour1 and the effect of tattooing is produced without the preliminary pain and inconvenience4 ,we have here an instance of the way in which the specially human instinct of decorating the body persists1 and at the same time a development of the fashion for displaying1 in the daytime under a thin veil of gauze or lace1 the necks and arms which since the time of our grandmothers have only been allowed to appear uncovered in the evening4 ,leather stockings were once worn1 for example1 by ,william ,penn1 and they and the leggings of to-day may be a direct survival from the time when our ancestors1 though still wearing skins1 had learnt to dress them4 ,leggings1 as such1 are possibly connected more closely with the protection of man against man than with that of man against the weather1 and in that case their history is bound up with that of armour4 ,gaiters1 under the name of spatter-dashes1 were originally part of a soldier's uniform4 ,to-day1 when worn by civilians in ordinary dress1 they are quite short1 and go by the contracted name of spats4 ,pedestrians still wear the full-sized gaiters in conjunction with knickerbockers1 and white gaiters are a feature of ,highland regiments4 ,long ,florentine hose1 which practically took the place of trousers and stockings together1 are now represented by what are called tights1 and are to be seen in the dress of acrobats4 ,we shall allude to these again4 ,garters when visible on men's legs become very ornamental1 and one in use now1 merely as a decoration1 gave its name to the celebrated ,order of ,knighthood1 among the insignia of which it is still to be found4 ,at the present day garters are hidden1 and there is a tendency for them to be replaced by more comfortable straps or suspenders1 but those which ladies wear still retain their gaudy character4 ,in this connection an interesting ceremony may be mentioned1 which is carried in ,haute-,vienne on the day of ,st4 ,eutropius4 ,all the girls of the neighbourhood troop to the church dedicated to the saint at ,st4 ,junien-les-,gombes1 and each damsel hangs her left garter on the cross hard by1 which becomes so smothered with garters of different colours that when seen from a short distance it looks as if it were covered with flowers4 ,,viii ,,petticoats ,,and ,,trousers ,,the ,,belted ,,plaid ,,and ,,kilt--,,early ,,skirts--,,the ,,antiquity ,,of ,,trousers--,,trouser ,,stripes ,we were at some pains to trace the evolution of the coat from the shawl1 and it is possible also to show that the petticoat1 and through this even trousers1 have equal claims to the same ancestry4 ,the plaid as we saw it in ,chapter ,,iii is only a shawl1 and at one time in ,scotland it was used as a covering for practically the whole of the person4 ,it was ingeniously disposed1 and part of it was fastened by a belt round the waist so as to form a kind of kilt or petticoat4 ,hence arose the name of belted plaid4 ,it seems to have needed a considerable amount of practice to put on this garment properly1 and the method customarily adopted by the wearer was to spread the plaid on the ground and1 after duly arranging it in its proper folds1 to lie down upon it and fix it with the belt4 ,some races seem to have recognized very much earlier that it would be more convenient to separate the kilt from the upper garment4 ,in fact1 if we examine the woven garments which the ,danish chieftain wore under his deer-skin cloak1 at a time before the use of iron had spread to ,western ,europe1 we find that round his loins he had a small shawl held in place by a girdle4 7,see ,figure #ge47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ge4--;,a shawl used as a kilt by a chieftain of ,denmark in the bronze stage of culture 7after ,worsaae74 ,the next stage in the evolution of the petticoat would be characterized by the permanent joining of the edges of the cloth1 so that a garment would be formed which resembled the lower part of the tubular tunic which played its part in the evolution of the shirt or coat4 ,such a state of affairs is to be seen in the simple skirt of the ,danish chieftainess whose bodice we have already described4 7,see page #ah47 ,here the petticoat was not shaped in any way at the top1 but was gathered in round the waist and fastened as in the case of the man with a girdle4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gf4--;,a simple dress in the form of a petticoat from an ,egyptian figure of the ,sixth ,dynasty 7#cejj ,b4,c471 from the ,myers collection in ,eton ,college ,museum4 ,in a warm climate it would be easy to dispense with a covering for the upper part of the body1 and one of the simplest dresses imaginable was adopted in ancient ,egypt4 ,this costume is to be seen on the figure of a woman belonging to the ,sixth ,dynasty 7#cejj ,b4,c471 which we have already mentioned when tracing the development of the hat-band and ribbons4 7,see ,figure #de47 ,in this instance there is a simple tight-fitting skirt reaching to the waist or a little above it1 which is supported by two straps passing between the bare breasts and over the otherwise naked shoulders4 7,see ,figure #gf47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gg4--;,a ,korean servant 7after ,hough74 ,it seems certain1 as in the original carving the woman is shown with a burden on her head and in the act of driving a calf before her1 that she is a representative of the peasant class4 ,in the ,korea at the present day1 women of the lower orders1 although they adopt a jacket which covers their arms and shoulders1 wear so short an one that as there is no garment beneath it leaves their breasts quite bare4 7,see ,figure #gg47 ,such an arrangement would obviously facilitate the nursing of children1 and this fact has been advanced as the reason for its adoption4 ,still it may be merely a fashion such as some women1 at the other end of the social scale1 once adopted in our non-tropical country4 ,in the time of ,james ,i of ,england1 the noble ladies1 while they wore an exaggerated ruff round their necks1 nevertheless had their dresses cut away from just below it almost to their waists4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gh4--;,a short kilt4 ,the short kilt now worn in ,scotland represents the lower part of the belted plaid1 and is in fact a petticoat and specially interesting1 seeing that it is a survival of this type as a man's garment4 ,of the origin of the sporran which is worn in front of the kilt1 little seems to be known1 and though it recalls to mind the time when men were clothed in skins1 it forms a pouch as well as an ornament1 and possibly also may have been useful as a protection4 7,see ,figure #gh47 ,having once derived the petticoat1 however1 from the ancestral shawl1 it is a very simple matter to proceed and evolve a pair of trousers4 ,as a matter of fact1 the ,eastern women1 when they fasten their petticoats between their ankles for convenience in walking1 demonstrate the first stage in the production of bifurcated garments4 ,a single row of stitches will give rise to a kind of divided skirt1 while two seams and a single cut made between1 and parallel1 to them1 will produce a pair of trousers4 ,it would be strange if so simple a process1 which under many conditions results in such a great improvement1 had not been put into practice in very early times1 and trousers1 although they seem to typify the ugliness of modern costume1 are in reality surrounded by a halo of antiquity4 ,it is only right1 however1 to point out that these tubular garments were in olden days not associated with the highest civilization4 ,the ,romans1 for instance1 did not wear trousers1 though the nations whom they were pleased to call barbarians1 did4 ,some of the enemies of ,rome are shown on ,trajan's column wearing nether garments of the kind most familiar to us1 and our illustration is taken from the representation of a barbarian soldier carved on an ivory diptych of ,st4 ,paul4 7,see ,figure #gi47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gi4--;,a barbarian soldier wearing characteristic trousers 7from a diptych of ,st4 ,paul1 after ,marriott74 ,the kilt is sometimes called the garb of old ,gaul1 but one province of the latter owes its name--,gallia ,braccata--to the custom among its inhabitants of wearing bracc or breeches4 ,in our own country trousers were in vogue before the advent of the ,roman conquerors1 and though for a time the dress of the invaders was adopted by those who followed their fashions1 we find that in the time of the ,saxons and ,normans the barbarian style found favour once more4 ,in the picture of a ,saxon fighting man 7see ,figure #hj71 we see that he wears trousers that somewhat recall those of the modern sailor1 and there seem to have been many different styles even in those early days4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hj4--;,a ,saxon military man wearing wide trousers 7from the ,harleian ,,ms41 ,no4 #fjc1 after ,fairholt74 ,during the course of our history1 long trousers went out of fashion for a very considerable period1 though knee-breeches of various kinds flourished from time to time1 until recently1 when the original and less elegant garment once more triumphed and became part of the everyday dress of men4 ,boys still wear knickerbockers in one stage of their development1 intermediate between the doffing of the petticoat and the donning of the trouser1 and there is a tendency1 that does not diminish1 for the shorter garments to be used by men of all ages when they are not occupied with formal business4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ha4--;,a peasant woman of ,champry wearing trousers4 ,trousers are often wrongly thought to be a modern invention1 and it is easy to go away with the idea that they are exclusively the attributes of men4 ,this is far from being the case1 and as in ,scotland we find the petticoat still in use by men1 so in ,france and ,switzerland 7see ,figure #ha7 we see the peasant woman wearing trousers of the ordinary type1 to say nothing of ,oriental countries like ,persia and ,siam 7see ,plate ,v71 where trousers form part of the dress of women even of the highest rank4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,siamese ,,princess1 ,,shewing ,,the ,,trousers ,,worn ,,by ,,women ,,of ,,high ,,rank4 ,,plate ,v4 ,we must not forget the energetic crusade which is being carried on in this country in favour of rational dress for women1 on lines which are more sensible than those laid down by ,mrs4 ,bloomer1 whose name has been immortalized in connection with divided garments for women4 ,it is not intended1 at the moment1 to enter into a discussion of the advantages that may be gained by banishing the skirt1 as we shall consider clothes1 from the point of view of their effect upon the body1 in a later chapter4 ,suffice it to say that the ugly clothes worn a few years ago by lady bicyclists who1 while adopting divided garments1 tried to make them look like a skirt1 did much to hinder the rational dress movement4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hb4--;,a ,german ,hussar of #ahjh4 ,there is one vestige in connection with trousers that we may mention before leaving this subject1 and that is the stripes which are to be seen on many official dresses1 and which have been adopted by some men in their evening dress of recent years4 ,it seems that this takes us back to a row of buttons which were once used along the whole length of the breeches when these were too tight for the foot to be put through them1 and in consequence they had to be undone and done up again along the side of the leg4 7,see ,figure #hb47 ,there is little doubt but that the stripe represents a fold of cloth that in some cases covered up these buttons4 ,just a few of such buttons are still to be seen on riding breeches and those worn by liveried servants4 ,,ix ,,coats ,,of ,,arms ,,signet ,,rings--,,armorial ,,bearings--,,escutcheons--,,crests--,,b adges ,before we deal with coverings for the hand1 it will not be amiss to consider something else which is worn on the fingers4 ,strictly speaking1 of course1 rings should be reckoned as ornaments1 but signet rings very often bear upon them the crest or coat of arms of their wearer1 and thus we have still carried on the person at the present day1 a small and inconspicuous vestige of what were once most important articles of costume4 ,in fact1 they had a significance as great if not greater than any others1 for when the face of their wearer was hidden by his helmet1 they told to those well versed in heraldry not only his name but his lineage4 ,the crest was worn on the helmet1 and might or might not be one of the devices or charges embroidered on the surcoat1--which was worn over the armour--and emblazoned on the shield and elsewhere4 ,at the present day1 except in the case of ceremonial dress such as the tabards of heralds1 the only survivals are the crest and shield4 ,the devices on the latter are now called a coat of arms1 as in olden times they were1 as already indicated1 merely a repetition of those actually worn on the dress or coat armour4 ,let us compare for a moment the first two figures which illustrate this chapter4 ,in the first 7see ,figure #hc7 we have a tiny device engraved on a ring that is worn on the little finger of the left hand4 ,in the second 7see ,figure #hd7 we have ,sir ,geoffrey ,loutterell mounted on his charger in the act of receiving his helmet and shield from some of the ladies belonging to his family4 ,all of the figures and the horse are decorated with armorial bearings4 ,we wonder whether there could be a greater contrast4 ,the knight has what is really his surcoat on his back displaying six martlets with a bend between them4 ,the charges are repeated on a small square shield on his shoulder called an ailette1 which was used apparently more as an ornament than as a protection1 though it is said that ailettes were originally intended as a defence for the neck4 ,sir ,geoffrey holds his helmet1 on which1 in the place of the crest1 we again see his armorial bearings4 ,they appear again on the pavon or small flag held by one of the ladies1 and on the shield which the other carries4 ,we find the same devices repeated five times on the trappings of his charger2 and as if this were not enough1 the ladies also have the bearings on their dresses4 ,in the case of ,lady ,loutterell1 who was the daughter of ,sir ,richard ,sutton1 there is shown also the lion rampant borne by her father4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hc4--,the crest on a modern signet ring4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hd4--,sir ,geoffrey ,loutterell and the ladies of his family1 showing the extent to which armorial bearings were worn in the middle of the fourteenth century4 ,from a psalter1 made for ,sir ,geoffrey 7after ,fairholt74 ,we give another illustration taken from the effigy of ,henry1 the first ,duke of ,lancaster1 on a brass at ,elsyng1 in ,norfolk4 7,see ,figure #he47 ,on this figure the surcoat is very well shown1 and on it are emblazoned the three lions 7or leopards7 of the ,royal ,arms of ,england4 ,it is interesting1 too1 owing to the label which differences the arms and shows that the wearer was not the king himself4 ,the label takes the form of three vertical bars joined by a horizontal one1 and is like that which may be seen to-day on the ,prince of ,wales's banner in ,st4 ,george's ,chapel at ,windsor4 ,in this illustration1 too 7,figure #he71 the crest is very well shown4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #he4--,the crest and surcoat of ,henry1 first ,duke of ,lancaster1 ,a4,d4 #acdg4 ,from the brass to ,sir ,hugh ,hasting at ,elsyng1 ,norfolk 7after ,charles ,boutell74 ,armorial bearings are still used to a considerable extent in architecture1 but otherwise they are chiefly confined to notepaper1 carriage panels1 and harness4 ,occasionally hatchments1 or more properly achievements1 are put upon the fronts of the houses of important people on the death of a member of the family1 and afterwards transferred to the church in which the body is buried4 ,the hatchment consists of the arms of the deceased person1 painted on a lozenge-shaped field1 which is surrounded by a black frame1 and if it indicates the death of a husband1 the right half of the field is sable 7black71 the left1 argent 7silver74 ,if it is a wife that is dead1 the colours on the field are reversed4 ,when a widower1 widow1 or unmarried person dies1 the whole of the field is made black4 ,in olden times the actual helmet1 surcoat1 and shield were carried at the funeral1 and in some instances these were deposited over the tomb of the deceased4 ,examples survive to the present day1 and one of the most interesting cases is to be found in ,canterbury ,cathedral1 where the shield1 helmet1 and surcoat of ,edward the ,black ,prince are still to be seen4 7,see ,figures #hf1 #hg1 and #hh47 ,the ,black ,prince left most careful instructions in his will with regard to his funeral1 and the accoutrements which we are able to figure through the kindness of the ,society of ,antiquaries1 were the arms of war1 as he called them1 that were to be carried at the ceremony4 ,his arms of peace consisted of his ostrich feather badge1 of which we shall again speak4 ,there are traces on the crest and surcoat of a label to distinguish them1 but this is absent from the shield1 though it occurs on the arms many times repeated on the tomb1 alternately with the feather badge already mentioned4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hf4--,the helmet and crest of the ,black ,prince4 ,from ,vetusta ,monumenta 7after ,st4 ,john ,hope74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hg4--,the shield of the ,black ,prince4 ,from ,vetusta ,monumenta 7after ,st4 ,john ,hope74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hh4--,the surcoat or jupon of the ,black ,prince4 ,from ,vetusta ,monumenta 7after ,st4 ,john ,hope74 ,with the exception of the signet rings and the ceremonial dress1 which were alluded to at the beginning of the chapter1 there are now but few cases where armorial bearings are worn on the person4 ,school and college arms are embroidered on the breast pockets of blazers and on the fronts of caps1 while perhaps the most common instances are the devices which we see on the buttons of servants4 ,whole coats of arms may appear1 but usually it is the crest of the master1 which has now taken the place of the household badge which the retainers wore in olden times4 ,there is a difference generally between a crest and a badge1 though in some cases the badge was really a crest4 ,this was so before armorial bearings became hereditary1 for the badge which the knight wore on his helmet formed its crest4 ,afterwards the same device was handed down to generation from generation4 ,individuals1 possibly with a view of hiding their identity1 sometimes wore a special badge instead of their family crest2 but the badge as generally understood was1 as has already been indicated1 worn by the retainers and was usually chosen by each head of the family4 ,the matter is further complicated1 because badges were sometimes hereditary and occasionally identical with the crest proper4 ,it is of course only the hereditary badges which have survived to the present day1 and in only one or two cases are they apparently still used as such1 though occasionally they survive for other purposes4 ,the ,prince of ,wales's feathers we have already mentioned4 ,they were not adopted by the ,black ,prince for the reasons usually given in history1 as there is nothing to show that the ,king of the ,bohemians ever wore them1 and long before his time an ostrich feather was often used as a royal badge in ,england4 ,on his carriage1 the ,marquis of ,abergavenny wears his badges1 a rose and a portcullis1 one on each side of his crest1 and there are interesting cases here and there of badges worn as part of a livery4 ,the porters of the ,inner ,temple wear the pascal lamb in silver4 ,watermen still have badges on their arms1 and not very long ago the private firemen of the insurance companies wore badges bearing the sign of the company4 ,when speaking of signs1 it is worthy of note that very many royal badges have furnished signs for inns4 ,we cannot go into details1 but we may mention the ,white ,hart of ,richard ,,ii1 the ,falcon and ,fetterlock of ,henry ,,vii1 now degenerated into the hawk and buckle1 and the ,rose and ,crown also used by the ,tudors4 ,those who chance to see the dress of our convicts will hardly be inclined to associate it in any way with that of royalty4 ,yet it is true1 nevertheless1 that the broad arrow which marks--we can hardly say adorns--the garments of the penitentiary1 is in reality a royal badge4 ,the broad arrow can be traced to an ancient symbol consisting of three converging rods or rays of light used by the ,druids1 and it was adopted by ,edward ,,iii as his badge4 ,the symbol was also worn by the ,black ,prince and other ,princes of ,wales4 ,as early as the year #achf the broad arrow was used in the ,royal household1 and from the beginning of the eighteenth century onwards it was adopted as a mark for distinguishing ,government stores4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hi4--,the postilion of a ,lord ,mayor of ,london1 wearing a crest upon his cap1 and a coat of arms upon his sleeve4 7,copied by permission from a plate published by the ,john ,williamson ,co41 ,ltd47 ,we may conclude our remarks upon this fascinating subject by alluding to a case in which a crest is actually borne on the head4 ,it will be seen on looking at ,figure #hi1 which represents the postilion of a ,lord ,mayor of ,london1 that he wears upon his jockey cap the actual crest of his master1 in the same way that in the days of chivalry the knights wore their crests upon their helmets4 ,on his sleeve also there is a full coat of arms with helmet and crest1 which takes the place of the badge1 and is similar to the instances which we have mentioned just above4 ,x ,,gloves ,,and ,,mittens ,,origin ,,of ,,the ,,baby',s ,,glove--,,fourchettes--,,the ,,points ,,on ,,the ,,backs ,,of ,,gloves ,gloves play a considerable part in our everyday life1 and now exercise a kind of mild tyranny over us4 ,it is perhaps not to be wondered at1 seeing the importance which has been attached to these protectors of the hand in the past4 ,records show that in the earliest gloves there were no divisions between the fingers1 and only the thumbs had a separate covering4 ,this is what one might have expected to be the case1 and if we look at the gloves which tiny babies wear 7see ,figure #ij71 we shall find a similar state of affairs1 so that here we have a direct survival from very early times4 ,such a case is on all fours with that of young animals which belong to species that originally were spotted like the leopard1 but which in the course of their evolution have changed their spots1 and are now1 like the lion1 self-coloured4 ,among other animals which are spotted when immature may be mentioned the wild boar and the tapir 7see ,frontispiece74 ,while these young ones are protected by their parents1 their primitive colouring is no detriment to them1 but when they go out into the world for themselves it would be disadvantageous under existing conditions for them to retain their aboriginal markings4 ,in a similar way the baby wears the primitive glove1 which its ancestors made shift to use for purposes of warmth or protection1 and the child continues to do so until it is necessary or convenient for it to use its fingers to help itself without removing its gloves4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ij4--;,a baby's glove without separate fingers4 ,there is little doubt but that gloves are the products of a cold climate1 and it is interesting to note that in ,iceland1 where in order that gloves may be put on quickly and easily they are made without fingers2 and what is more1 so that no time shall be wasted in choosing right or left-hand gloves1 they are provided with two thumbs1 one of which is in use while the other remains idle4 ,of vestiges1 gloves offer a very curious instance4 ,there are on the backs of most of them1 at the present day1 three lines of raised embroidery or fancy stitching1 which run almost parallel with one another1 though they converge slightly as they approach the wrist4 ,when these are worked in black on the back of a white woollen glove1 for instance1 they are very conspicuous1 and to explain their origin may well seem puzzling4 7,see ,figure #ia47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ia4--,the back of a woollen glove showing the three vestiges known as points4 ,inquiry into the history of these most persistent ornaments is apt to produce a fine crop of speculations4 ,one explanation that may be offered is that the lines are vestiges that date from the time when gloves were so ill-fitting that they had to be laced up the back with the help of a string which was passed through eyelet holes4 ,on hearing this one might be tempted to ask why there should be three ornaments and not one4 ,another guess which can be more easily shown to be wrong is that we are dealing with the remains of ventilation holes4 ,we say more easily because an examination of the facts will show that openings through which air was intended to enter were made in the palm of the glove4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ib4--;,a modern kid glove showing the fourchettes or pieces between the fingers1 which form three pointed ,v's4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ic4--,queen ,elizabeth's coronation glove showing the stitching carried down on to the back4 7,from a photograph by the courtesy of ,messrs4 ,fownes ,brothers and ,co47 ,a third suggestion which may occur1 is that the ornamentation is a survival from the time when great men1 particularly prelates1 had various devices and even jewels fixed to the back of their gloves4 ,once more1 however1 we meet with the difficulty in the shape of the point that there are always three of the marks4 ,in making a careful investigation into the true origin of the vestiges we can1 on the one side1 endeavour to see whether there is anything in the form of the hand which can have given rise to the number three1 that is so constant2 and on the other1 whether the glove-makers have any particular name for the marks which may throw some light upon them4 ,in connection with the first line of research1 it will be seen on spreading out the fingers that there are1 if we ignore the thumb which has its insertion lower down in the hand1 three ,v-shaped openings between them1 and we find on taking up our second clue that the ornaments are called points4 ,now there is a point at the bottom of a ,v1 and this is well seen in looking at a glove where the pieces or fourchettes which form the insides of the fingers meet 7see ,figure #ib72 but if this is evident in a modern glove1 it is very much more so in old gloves4 7,see ,figure #ic47 ,a result of this fact was that the stitching which made the fingers was carried down for some distance on to the back of the glove1 as seen in ,queen ,elizabeth's coronation glove4 7,see ,figure #ic47 ,this stitching was and is often somewhat elaborate1 and in some cases a line of embroidery covered it4 ,this is well seen in the glove of ,anne1 the ,queen ,consort of ,james ,i 7see ,figure #id72 and here it is noticeable that the two lines of embroidery at the points of the three ,v's run parallel and touching each other1 so that we get a beginning of the three points as we know them4 ,with improvements in the making of the fourchettes1 the stitching terminated more abruptly1 and the embroidery was allowed to remain on the back of the glove1 where it is still to be seen4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #id4--,the glove of ,anne1 ,queen ,consort of ,james ,i1 showing the embroidery on the fingers1 which is the ancestor of modern points4 7,from a photograph1 by the courtesy of ,messrs4 ,fownes ,brothers and ,co47 ,some mention should perhaps be made of mittens4 ,when they are used for the purpose of keeping the hands warm1 they are usually on the principle of a baby's glove1 but with the end of the thumb and part of the bag for the fingers cut off4 ,otherwise1 when these articles are used merely to cover part of the hands1 or for ornament1 they are more elaborate1 and divisions are introduced for some distance between the fingers4 ,in the construction of these1 as in that of stockings and other garments1 we meet with the modern tendency towards transparency4 ,often also the patterns are dependent upon the skin showing through1 and we are once more reminded of tattooing4 ,,xi ,,tags1 ,,pins1 ,,and ,,baldrics ,,laces--,,the ,,evolution ,,and ,,vagaries ,,of ,,the ,,safety-,,pin--,,primitive ,,methods ,,of ,,carrying ,,burdens ,,as ,,illustrated ,,by ,,muff-,,chains1 ,,baldrics1 ,,and ,,yokes ,during the course of their evolution many little appurtenances in connection with dress go through a number of changes4 ,some of them1 which at first are useful1 afterwards become ornamental4 ,others1 which have reached a stage in which they are both necessary and decorative1 may for a time be simplified and retain a practical importance only1 while at a later period they resume their ornamental character once more4 ,we have at the present day various laces which are provided with simple metal tags1 and which are as primitive as they very well can be4 7,see ,figure #ie47 ,if we examine the dresses of both sexes in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries1 we shall find that ties were used to a great extent instead of buttons1 and they were provided with metal tags of an ornamental character called aiglets1 or1 more properly1 aiguillettes4 ,in many cases the chief object of the ribbons which they adorned was that of embellishment1 for as many as a dozen or more might be found round one knee4 ,sometimes the tags were in the form of little figures1 and in the ,taming of the ,shrew it is said of ,petruchio that if you gave him gold enough any one might marry him to a puppet or an aglet-baby4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ie4--;,a silk lace with simple metal tags4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #if4--,ornamental metal tags on a velvet neck ribbon4 ,of recent years the velvet ribbons which ladies have worn round their necks have been provided in like manner with little tags 7see ,figure #if71 though the fashion does not seem to have developed again to any very great extent4 ,the safety-pin is an object which may well occupy our attention for a moment4 ,as we knew it when we were children1 it was merely a piece of wire that had been pointed at one end and bent into the required shape4 7,see ,figure #ig47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ig4--;,a simple safety-pin4 ,the point was protected in a very simple manner1 and the safety-pins used for fastening hooks to curtains are still constructed in the same way4 ,occasionally gold safety-pins of a plain and even ornamental character were made and used as brooches by ladies for fastening lace1 or by men for securing their ties in the place of the straight scarf-pins4 ,it would seem therefore that a brooch is a development of the safety-pin rather than the reverse2 but if we study the brooches or fibul of the ,romans1 we shall find that the pin1 instead of being hinged1 was often made in one piece with the rest of the structure4 ,a coil or two in the metal acted as a spring1 as in the case of the safety-pin1 and prevented breakage4 ,we may even find an ,etruscan fibula of such simple construction 7see ,figure #ih7 that it is to all intents and purposes a safety-pin4 ,all sorts of devices have been invented for the better protection of the points in modern safety-pins1 as well as for rendering the opening and closing more easy2 but this is the development which has taken place along practical lines4 ,such pins are for use only1 and are not intended to be seen4 ,when1 on the other hand1 safety-pins are not hidden1 they retain their more simple character as regards their fastenings1 though they themselves again become decorative1 and are ornamented in various ways4 ,we have therefore a very good illustration of the evolution of one thing along two different lines1 and of the survival of the fittest types in each case4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ih4--;,an ,etruscan brooch or fibula1 resembling a safety-pin4 7,in the collection of ,major ,w4 ,j4 ,myers in ,eton ,college ,museum47 ,the ornamental safety-pin in recent years has changed its habits1 and it is interesting to note its vagaries4 ,a little while ago its sphere of action was extended1 and instead of figuring under the chins of ladies it took up a position in the back of their waistbands 7see ,figure #ii71 where it occupied itself with the duty of keeping blouse and skirt together4 ,then1 as if this situation were not important enough1 the safety-pin migrated to the head and usurped the place of the straight hat-pin 7see ,figure #ajj71 just as in the case of men it has sometimes ousted the tie-pin proper4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ii4--,the safety-pin in the waistband4 ,during the process which we have described the safety-pin has become stronger and larger1 until in the last stage it has grown almost out of recognition4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajj4--,the safety-pin grown larger and used for fastening on a hat4 ,straight pins have developed along the same two lines1 and we have the strictly useful pin and tie- or hat-pins1 which are often quite as important as fastenings1 but which may also be highly ornamental4 ,these small articles have a special claim to our attention1 as they have been taken as being emblematical of clothes1 or at least of female attire4 ,even now the allowance which a lady is given for dress is called pin-money4 ,moreover1 it is possible to illustrate by means of pins the various phases of culture through which mankind has passed in the process of civilization4 ,we meet with pins of bone1 in the stage of stone1 before metals were used4 ,in the stage characterized by bronze we have pins made of this alloy4 ,such pins occurred in ,egypt before the historic period1 and they have been found in the ,swiss lake dwellings as well as in our own country4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aja4--;,a muff-chain4 ,although we now live in the iron1 or perhaps more correctly steel1 stage of culture1 the familiar pin of to-day is still usually made of brass2 but nevertheless we find steel pins of the ordinary form which are plated with brass1 and glass-headed steel pins are very common4 ,in early times also gold1 silver1 and precious stones were pressed into service for making ornamental pins1 and very handsome pins are represented on effigies of the fourteenth century in ,westminster ,abbey4 ,these1 no doubt1 have for their descendants the scarf-pins of to-day4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajb4--;,a hawker1 illustrating the primitive way of carrying a burden4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajc4--;,a courier-bag supported by a baldric4 ,a muff-chain is a thing which is very often seen at the present day1 and this simple arrangement1 coupled with the way in which it is worn 7see ,figure #aja71 may lead us along a very interesting line of research1 which we may follow for a short time4 ,if we look once again at the muff1 we shall see that it is supported by a chain which goes round the back of the neck1 allowing the muff to rest against the front of the body4 ,this is a primitive method of carrying a burden4 ,pedlars of old made use of it1 and it is still adopted by the hawker 7see ,figure #ajb71 because1 if necessary1 the hands can remain free1 while a modification of the same principle is seen when the strap takes the form of a baldric1 and passes over one shoulder and under the arm on the other side4 ,in this way travellers carry their courier-bags 7see ,figure #ajc71 the school-boy or girl supports his or her satchel1 the fisherman his creel1 and the sportsman his field-glasses4 ,to a baldric also was attached the quiver of the archer1 and sometimes such a band was merely worn as a decoration4 7,see ,figure #ajd47 ,in the illustration which we give1 and which is of the time of ,henry ,v1 the baldric is hung with bells like those which were worn by horses4 ,possibly a survival of the ornamental use of the baldric is to be seen in the ribbons of various orders and in military sashes1 though no doubt the bandoleer which carries the pouch or cartridges of a modern soldier represents the useful baldric4 ,it is of interest to note that the red or blue cord worn over the cross-belts of the ,life ,guards and ,horse ,guards is a survival of a cord by which the horn containing powder for priming muskets used to be suspended4 ,in this connection we might also mention the leather sling of a rifle and the strap by which the itinerant harpist1 in common with the organ-grinder1 carries his instrument4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajd4--;,an ornamental baldric of the early fifteenth century4 7,royal ,,mss4 #ae ,d4 #e1 after ,fairholt47 ,the ordinary belt should not be overlooked1 as from it many things1 such as weapons1 may be suspended1 not to mention pouches1 which may carry ammunition1 flint and steel1 and so on4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aje4--;,a lady's dress1 showing the part which is called a yoke1 and recalls a primitive method of carrying burdens4 ,even more intimately connected with dress are pockets1 and they may be touched upon here1 for they are intended for carrying small objects4 ,we have seen how the flaps of pockets which have become ornamental survive after the pockets themselves have disappeared 7see ,figure #ba71 and it is worthy of note that clothes in various countries lend themselves to the transportation of commodities4 ,it has been pointed out by ,mr4 ,otis ,t4 ,mason#i that the ,oriental1 especially the ,korean1 has pockets in his sleeves having the capacity of half a bushel2 while the ,turk and ,arab can stow an equal amount in the ample folds of their robes4 ,the writer also remembers hearing the account of a journey in ,asia from a traveller who1 when riding in wide trousers fastened at the ankle1 used to keep all his clean linen in one trouser-leg and his dirty clothes in the other4 ,we are reminded by the name given to the upper part of a lady's dress1 namely1 the yoke 7see ,figure #aje71 of another means of carrying burdens1 which still survives in ,london1 where a few milk-women even now carry round their pails on a yoke4 ,their costume1 which includes a small shawl and an apron1 can be compared with that of the barge-girl1 though the picturesque sun-bonnet of the latter is lacking4 ,,xii ,,ornaments ,,primitive ,,necklaces--,,finger-,,rings--,,the ,,origin ,,of ,,the ,,hair ,,comb--,,buttons--,,studs--,,flowers--, ,feathers--,,amulets ,we have touched upon one or two objects which may have a decorative character1 but we now come to a consideration of ornaments themselves4 ,roughly speaking1 they owe their survival to one of two reasons3 either the deep-rooted instinct which exists in even the lowest races for adorning their person1 or1 secondly1 the adoption of various objects which have been worn as charms or amulets4 ,dr4 ,e4 ,b4 ,tylor#aj has pointed out the tendency of higher civilization to give up savage ornaments4 ,not the most primitive possibly1 but seemingly the most barbarous1 are the ornaments which are fastened into the body in special orifices which are pierced to receive them4 ,it is true that in this country we do not make holes in our lips for the insertion of wooden plugs two or three inches across1 and the only nose ornaments which we see are on the faces of the ,hindu ayahs who have come over from ,india with their white nurselings2 but still many among the population pierce their ears for the reception of earrings4 ,in the higher social ranks ear-drops are now worn which do not require the ear to be perforated for their reception2 but among the lower orders--as1 for instance1 those who live in canal-boats--the ears of men1 women1 and children are still pierced4 ,of ornaments which can be attached to the person without injuring it there are more in use1 but they are practically confined in civilized countries to the neck1 arms1 and head4 ,of those which are fastened to clothes we will not for the moment speak4 ,beads1 which at the moment of writing seem to be greatly in fashion1 or their representatives1 take us back to the very earliest men of whose work we have any knowledge4 ,in the caves where the ,stone ,age men of the mammoth period lived there have been found periwinkle shells1 which were bored to form bracelets or necklaces1 just as nowadays native tribes and sthetic ladies still make use of the more ornamental and beautiful exotic shells4 ,the prehistoric ,egyptians who1 it has been calculated1 flourished about #fjjj ,b4,c41 had necklaces of beads cut out from pieces of shell1 and others made of many different materials4 ,among the earliest remains in our own country beads are found1 and throughout the historic period everywhere they seem to have held their sway4 ,we have already mentioned how easy it is for ornaments to be used as currencies1 owing to the facility with which they may be carried on the person1 and beads for many centuries have been used--as in ,africa for instance--in the place of money4 ,there are on the west coast of that continent still to be seen aggries similar to those which the ,arab traders brought with them from ,egypt as early as the seventeenth dynasty4 ,at the present day beads of various kinds--for only particular varieties will buy certain commodities--are made and exported to ,africa to be used in trading4 ,while speaking of ,egyptian beads1 it might be said that1 as in other matters of art1 the ,egyptians excelled in the making of beads4 ,some--known as blue popo beads1 which found their way to ,west ,africa--are worth more than their weight in gold at the present day1 and the most skilful of the ,venetian beadmakers are unable to imitate them sufficiently well to induce the natives to accept them4 ,chains for the neck in our time do not assume very massive proportions1 except those which are used as symbols of office in the case of mayors and by the members of various knightly orders4 ,these take us back to the time of ,richard ,,ii1 when such ornaments came into vogue4 ,among savage races metal rings find much favour as ornaments1 and they illustrate the fact that the lady who wears the minimum of clothes will put up with the height of inconvenience1 not to say pain1 just as her over-dressed and more civilized white sister will do1 in order to be in the height of fashion4 ,the ,padaung women put metal collars round their necks when they are young children till these number between twenty and thirty1 and the necks of the wearers are stretched out in the most grotesque and uncomfortable fashion4 7,see ,plate ,,vi47 ,african belles will wear great copper rings on their limbs1 which get so hot in the sun that an attendant has to carry water with which to occasionally cool them down4 ,the wearing of armlets and bracelets has never been confined to women4 ,men among the ,greeks did not wear them1 but among the ,romans they did4 ,armlets were conferred on soldiers for heroic deeds1 and even now the rank of non-commissioned officers in the army is indicated by stripes on their sleeves4 ,illustration3 ,,two ,,padaung ,,women1 ,,showing ,,the ,,numerous ,,metal ,,collars ,,which ,,they ,,wear ,,round ,,their ,,necks4 7,see page #aad47 ,,plate ,,vi4 ,dr4 ,tylor hints that ordinary finger-rings have originated from those used as signets in ,egypt and ,babylon4 ,in this case the modern signet ring1 which we have already discussed in connection with heraldic devices1 is a survival from the earliest times4 ,most rings are now merely ornamental1 though a few are symbolical--the episcopal ring of the bishop1 the engagement ring of the betrothed damsel1 and the wedding ring of the wife4 ,as early as the seventh century a ring was among the distinctive insignia of a bishop1 and one was found on the finger of ,bishop ,agilbert of ,paris 7who lived at this time7 when his coffin was opened4 ,the ring was of gold and1 as is usual1 had a jewel set in it1 on which1 in the particular case mentioned1 was a likeness of ,christ and of ,st4 ,jerome4 ,the origin is no doubt to be found in the fact that in ,roman times rings were used as an insignia of rank4 ,the episcopal ring proper was only one of many other rings which a bishop might wear as ornaments4 ,it was borne on the third finger of the right hand1 above the second joint1 and was usually kept in place with a plain guard ring4 ,the ,greeks and ,romans used betrothal rings as pledges1 but not wedding rings4 ,there is a good deal of interesting symbolism in connection with rings1 and it is said that the third finger of the left hand was chosen because in old times it was thought that a vein came to that finger direct from the heart4 ,the practical point is that the finger in question is not very much used1 and on it the rings would not be so liable to be worn out as on some of the others4 ,it is also supposed that the left hand was chosen as it was the less important1 and the wearing of a ring on this hand signified servitude4 ,an interesting form of early wedding rings was that called the gimmal ring1 which consisted of two links1 each having a hand upon it1 which when brought together formed a single ring with the hands clasped together4 ,the ring was used at betrothal1 and the man and woman each kept a half until their wedding day4 ,perhaps the old custom of breaking a coin upon engagement so that each of the contracting parties may have half1 is a relic of the same custom4 ,in ,ireland the peasantry still use a ring1 though a solid one1 bearing clasped hands4 ,we have possibly a survival of the interesting posey rings in those which bear the word ,mizpah4 ,this originally signified a watch-tower1 but it is now taken as expressing the following sentiment3 ,god watch over thee and me when we are apart4 ,in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries the couplet or line was1 as in the case mentioned1 put on the outside of the ring1 while later1 in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries1 the words were engraved inside the ring4 ,occasionally we see a necktie held in place with a ring1 and this may well be connected with the custom of wearing rings round the neck on a ribbon4 ,it is recorded that the ,duke of ,burgundy1 who died in #adgf1 carried his signet ring in this way4 ,a custom is still sometimes followed which dates back to the sixteenth century4 ,it is that of choosing stones on account of the first letters of their names and setting them in a ring in such an order that the initials spell a word or words4 ,for instance1 the following--,ruby1 ,emerald1 ,garnet1 ,amethyst1 ,ruby1 and ,diamond1 indicate ,,regard2 while a lover's exhortation is produced by such a combination as ,lapis-lazuli1 ,opal1 ,verdi-antique1 ,emerald1 ,malachite1 ,emerald4 ,many of the ,egyptian rings are made of blue pottery or faence1 and some of them show highly ornamental and pierced work4 ,the lotus flowers and other figures upon them point to their being symbolical4 ,others bear the sacred eye in the place where the seal would be in a signet ring1 and were probably used as amulets2 but of ornaments worn on account of their supposed virtues we will speak in a moment4 ,an ornament for the head1 with which we will deal1 is the crown4 ,mr4 ,elworthy1 in a paper to the ,british ,association at ,ipswich in #ahie1 derived the crown from horns of honour4 ,he maintained that the symbols found on the head of the god ,serapis were the elements from which were formed the composite head-dress called the crown1 into which horns entered to a very great extent4 ,the panache in heraldry is derived from the horn1 and it may be recalled that the deer-skin cloaks worn by the ,bronze ,age people over the woven dresses that have been described on pages #ah and #gc1 bore the horns of the animal from which they were taken4 ,though the comb used as an ornament in the hair is also worn on the head1 it is on a very much lower plane than the crown1 and has presumably a very much less exalted origin4 ,professor ,boyd ,dawkins#aa has expressed the opinion that the old loom comb 7see ,fig4 #ajf71 such as one found in the prehistoric lake dwellings which have been excavated at ,glastonbury1 is the ancestor of the comb worn as a head-dress at the present day 7see ,fig4 #ajg74 ,combs were used to push down the weft on a hand loom1 the warp being kept taut by means of weights4 ,the long hair-combs used by the natives of the ,west ,carolines are also of very much the same shape as the old loom combs4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajf4--;,a loom comb found in the ,glastonbury lake dwellings 7after ,boyd ,dawkins74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajg4--;,a modern comb for the hair4 ,already in the safety-pin and scarf-pin we have had instances of fastenings which at times are ornamental4 ,the button and its relative the stud afford another case in point4 ,a stud is in reality a button which appears on both sides of the stuff through which it is put4 ,it is obvious that it is most convenient to use when the material to be fastened is of a stiff texture4 ,at present we use studs in our starched linen1 and they are also adopted for fastening parts of leather accoutrements1 as they evidently were in the times of the later bronze folk4 ,this will be seen from ,figure #ajh4 ,one of these is adorned with the triskele1 which is allied to the swastika1 and no doubt gave rise to the three-legged charge on the coat of arms of the ,isle of ,man and of ,sicily4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajh4--,two studs of bronze1 seen from above and from the side4 ,later ,bronze ,age 7after ,worsaae74 ,buttons have from time to time done a great deal in the way of decorating clothes1 in addition to the part which they have played as fastenings4 ,we saw in an earlier chapter how many of our buttons1 which are now only ornamental1 were once of use1 and any history of costume which goes into details will show how largely1 superfluous buttons have figured as ornaments4 ,the older ,quakers1 of course1 refused to wear any buttons that were not needful1 and brought down upon them the criticisms of ,cobbett1 who referred to other things which they lacked besides buttons4 ,although at the present time we may be inclined to appreciate some of our purposeless buttons1 on account of their historic associations1 we cannot say the same for many of those which now appear on ladies' dresses4 ,there is little sense in having on the front of a bodice a series of buttons of which the first member is very large and the last very small1 with the others graduated in size between them1 while there seems to be no rhyme nor reason in many other individual buttons or patches of them which are dotted here and there over the costume4 ,it is not as if these additions were really handsome4 ,not long ago they looked as if the wearer had saved up all her old glove buttons1 and then had sewed them to her frock1 for they were quite tiny and made of brass4 ,now1 though they are larger1 they are merely covered with the cloth of which the dress is made and are usually quite plain4 ,in some cases buttons show great beauty of design1 and for this reason1 if not on account of the material of which they are made1 may be exceedingly valuable4 ,bearing on the antiquity of buttons1 we may say that they are found among prehistoric remains in this country1 and though they were foreign to the ancient ,egyptians1 we learn 7through the kindness of ,professor ,flinders ,petrie7 that engraved buttons or seals were usual from the sixth to the nineteenth dynasty1 probably among foreign immigrants1 for the designs are never true ,egyptian4 ,in the present year1 #aijg1 ,professor ,petrie found a cornelian button with a copper shank which belongs to the twelfth dynasty4 ,the use of flowers1 whether artificial or natural1 on the person1 and more particularly the wearing of feathers1 also takes us back to the primitive instinct of early or uncivilized man4 ,in our own country the custom of wearing feathers is an exceedingly old one4 ,the single upright specimens worn by the knights of the fourteenth century have been characterized as being preposterous in size4 ,the plumes afterwards worn in helmets in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries were also immense4 ,in #afjf1 according to ,nichol's ,progresses1 on the occasion of the visit of ,christian ,,iv1 some of the knights wore strange feathers of rich and great esteem which they called ,birdes of ,paradice1 and1 unfortunately1 ladies of the present day wear them still4 ,in the reign of ,edward ,,iv1 we learn1 only men1 practically speaking1 wore feathers4 ,they still survive in the army1 but otherwise in the twentieth century1 with the exception of an occasional small and modest instance amongst civilians1 the wearing of plumes is confined to ladies4 ,many flowers and feathers are exceedingly beautiful1 and from an artistic point of view there seems little reason why we should allow civilization to sweep them away4 ,we are quiet and colourless in our clothing1 and if we are not careful the same element of dulness may creep into our lives4 ,at the same time1 however1 to wear feathers which can only be obtained at the cost of cruelty or of depriving others of the sight of beautiful birds1 or1 again1 of bringing any species to extinction1 savours too much of barbarousness and thoughtlessness to be in any way condoned4 ,ostriches are reared for their feathers1 and the plumage of many birds that are killed for food is always at hand4 ,men have much less opportunity now of showing any great individuality in their dress than heretofore1 but sometimes they may be known by always wearing a buttonhole1 even if that does not always consist of the same kind of bloom4 ,the language of flowers1 though now seemingly considered to be a dead letter1 was hardly invented for nothing4 ,of the brooch and its connection with the safety-pin we have already spoken4 ,in many ornaments we find remnants of religious ideas2 for instance1 all brooches showing a crescent pattern or bearing the design of a hand are connected with the old phallic worship4 ,the cross1 it may be mentioned1 is of much more ancient origin than ,christianity1 and is connected intimately with the swastika or fylfot4 ,the locket and other pendant ornaments must in many1 if not all1 cases be the descendants of amulets4 ,the ,arab women at the present day wear a little metal box containing a written talisman4 ,an ancient ,egyptian buried1 with his mummies1 many amulets and charms so that the soul1 in obedience to various precepts1 might enter into complete union with ,ra1 the solar god1 and so accompany him on his journey round the world1 and secure his everlasting protection4 ,it is due to these ideas that we owe the beautifully modelled figures of glazed pottery found in the ,egyptian tombs4 ,many of them depict the various gods and goddesses acknowledged in ,egypt1 and they are usually pierced for attachment to the person4 ,these were also carried on the person during life1 and children especially were accustomed to wear them4 ,old religious beliefs and superstitions that have not yet died out1 have elsewhere given rise to the wearing of charms1 and it is interesting to note that flint arrow-heads1 under the name of elves' arrows1 were made into pendants by races who had reached the metal stage of culture4 ,precious stones1 upon which a word may be said here1 no doubt at first were prized for their beauty alone1 and then imagination gradually endowed many of them with fictitious properties and virtues1 though doubtless the supposed attributes of some and the value and beauty of others have kept many precious stones in favour until the present day4 ,fashion is now particularly fickle as regards them1 and craftsmen who deal with gems1 feel her decrees#ab more keenly perhaps than any one else4 ,some half-dozen kinds of stones--such as diamonds1 rubies1 emeralds1 sapphires1 opals1 and turquoises--never go completely out of fashion1 but even among these1 one or other becomes paramount from time to time4 ,the topaz and chrysolite were reported to lose their brilliancy when placed in liquid that contains poison4 ,to the amethyst was attributed the power of warding off the effects of drunkenness4 ,the diamond1 it was believed1 gave to the wearers magnanimity1 virtue1 and courage4 ,the ancients supposed that the opal shared the charm of every stone of which it reflected the colour1 but when it was stolen1 the thief became invisible1 and was allowed to escape scot free4 ,mr4 ,claremont#ac has made an interesting suggestion as to the reason why the opal has been considered unlucky4 ,the notion1 he says1 is not nearly so ancient as many of the superstitions relating to other stones1 and probably does not date further back than the ,middle ,ages4 ,the old name ophal was used as late as the time of ,queen ,elizabeth1 and came from the ,greek for eye-stone1 and as eyes are unlucky even in peacocks' feathers1 perhaps the explanation of the superstition lies in the name of the stone4 ,such walking-sticks as those garnished with sylver and golde1 which are described as being at the ,royal ,palace at ,greenwich in the reign of ,henry ,,viii1 may well be considered as ornaments4 ,the same may be said of the be-ribboned canes of the exquisites of ,charles ,,ii's and later times4 ,we mention them because1 within the last two or three years1 there has been a talk of seeing the nice conduct of a clouded cane more generally considered1 and some men have appeared at the theatre with long1 gold-knobbed and tasselled canes4 ,the buckle1 which may be ornamental or useful1 or both1 is well worthy of our attention4 ,it consists in its simple form of a ring and a pin1 and the latter is hinged on to the former4 ,it is1 in fact1 much like a brooch1 but without a hasp1 and used in a different way4 ,there are brooches1 however1 at the present day1 which are even simpler in construction than the buckle1 and they are used#ad even now by blacksmiths in ,kirkudbrightshire1 in the form of the iron ring and a horseshoe nail1 with which they fasten their aprons4 ,similar pin-ring brooches were used in ,ireland until quite recently and are known from early times4 ,mr4 ,edward ,lovett#ae thinks that such a fastening may well have been derived from two bones of the sheep or deer1 the garment being pulled through the ring formed by half the hip girdle1 and speared through with the pointed heel bone4 ,a still more primitive pin was no doubt a thorn1 and fish-hooks are to this day used on the coasts of ,essex1 which are made from the same natural object4 ,,xiii ,,hair ,,dressing ,,head ,,shaving--,,wigs ,,that ,,are ,,still ,,worn--,,roman ,,curls ,,and ,,fringes ,the styles in which hair is dressed are so intimately connected with fashions in costume that no excuse is needed for dealing with the question here4 ,moreover1 there are certain vestiges in costume occasionally to be met with which owe their origin to the way in which hair was once arranged4 ,hair can be treated in all sorts of manners without injuring the person in any way1 and usually without causing pain1 though some fashions in hair arrangement had results that were far from pleasant1 and must have caused considerable discomfort4 ,in addition to the styles in which hair is allowed to grow1 there are others which lead to its removal from one or more of the places which it normally covers1 and almost every change that could be rung is met with4 ,in addition to the hair on the head1 women have only their eyebrows and eyelashes to consider1 though it is the fashion to remove any superfluous hair from their faces and arms4 ,men have also to consider moustaches1 whiskers1 and beard4 ,nowadays it is decreed that women's hair should be long and that men's should be short2 but even now men with long hair do not necessarily look effeminate1 as is shown by the cowboys from the ,wild ,west who have taken part in various exhibitions in this country1 and whose hair reaches on to their shoulders4 ,the shaving of the whole head is carried out by many savage nations1 and this is perhaps surprising1 seeing that the process cannot but be laborious and even painful when carried out with flint knives or pieces of shell4 ,the ,chinese leave the hair that grows from one small spot in order to make their pigtail4 ,in this country it might be thought that the tonsure of priests was the only remnant of shaving the head2 but we need go no farther than the ,east ,end of ,london to find ,jewesses who upon marriage shave their head and put on wigs4 ,it appears that the custom is still universal in the remote villages of ,russia1 where every ,jewess on her marriage shaves her head4 ,the wig that is worn is of a very plain pattern1 and the hair of which it is composed is parted down the middle4 ,the object which seems to underlie the custom is the destruction of the charm of the women when once they have found husbands4 ,in ,london the younger women do not seem to be keeping up the practice1 and it is mostly in the case of those who are over forty years of age that shaved heads and wigs are to be found4 ,there may be1 however1 another explanation4 ,in many countries where great value was attached to a profuse head of hair a variety of superstitions arose1 and emblematic observances were followed with regard to it4 ,parents dedicated the hair of their infants to gods1 as did young women theirs at their marriage1 warriors after a successful campaign1 and sailors after deliverance from a storm4 ,the ,egyptians of all classes1 as well as their slaves1 shaved their heads and wore wigs4 ,by this habit they ensured greater cleanliness1 and the structure of the wig not only allowed the heat from the head to escape1 but protected the latter effectively from the sun4 ,it does not happen that both sexes always follow the practice of shaving their heads1 for1 contrary to what prevails amongst civilized nations1 ,fijian women are usually closely cropped1 while the men spend much time and attention on cultivating and elaborately arranging a luxuriant mass of hair4 ,the tendency nowadays is to cultivate eyebrows and eyelashes1 but if we go back in our history to the reign of ,richard ,,ii we find that it was thought necessary to pull out the eyebrows1 and at the present day in some parts of ,africa it is one of the requirements of female beauty to eradicate the eyebrows4 ,special pinchers for this purpose are to be found among the appliances of the native toilet4 ,a man may of course remove all the hair1 speaking in the ordinary way1 from his face1 or he may retain only his moustache or his whiskers or his beard1 or a combination of any two of these4 ,at the present day we meet with all sorts of styles1 though one may be the fashion for the moment among the younger generation or those who wish to be considered smart4 ,one cannot alter the disposition of one's hair as easily as one can change one's clothes1 and this1 perhaps1 taken in conjunction with the objection to change on the part of a man and his relatives1 gives the variety that has been mentioned4 ,for instance1 if it were customary when a man was young for his fellows to wear beards or only a moustache1 then he continues to wear a beard or only a moustache4 ,perhaps no other fashions come round again more regularly than those which govern the amount of hair on a man's face1 and it may be interesting to indicate very briefly some of the changes which have taken place during the last two thousand years or so in this country4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 ,a4 ,,fig4 ,b4 ,,fig4 ,c4 ,,fig4 ,d4 ,,fig4 ,e4 ,,fig4 ,f4 ,,methods ,,of ,,hairdressing ,,illustrated ,,by ,,romano-,,egyptian ,,portrait ,,models ,,in ,,the ,,myers ,,collection1 ,,eton ,,college ,,museum4 7,photographs by ,wilfred ,mark ,webb47 7,see pages #abi and #acc47 ,,plate ,,vii4 ,the inhabitants of ,england at the time of the ,roman invasion either did not shave at all or wore only a moustache4 ,the ,romans often cut their beards 7see ,plate ,,vii1 ,figure ,f471 and the ,saxons parted their beards into double locks or neatly trimmed them4 ,when the ,normans came into this country they were closely shaved1 but afterwards they went to the opposite extreme4 ,in the fourteenth century old men wore beards and the younger generation shaved4 ,edward ,,iii had a long beard1 ,edward ,,ii two small tufts on his chin1 and in ,edward ,,iv's time the beard was closely shaven4 ,afterwards we find that a tax was put on beards1 and once more1 in ,elizabeth's and the following reigns1 we have a number of extraordinary fashions in connection with the hair on the chin4 ,when we get to #agih1 among the upper classes beards were again no longer worn1 and there have been several changes since that time4 ,apart from the prevailing fashion1 there is1 under the conditions which we have seen to govern the matter1 considerable scope for the indulgence of individual taste1 and often an effect is produced which is much more striking than otherwise would be the case4 ,a man may choose1 for instance1 to grow a large pair of bushy whiskers1 and he may thereby give character and importance to his face1 which without them would be very insignificant4 ,curly hair is effective and has its advantages1 therefore we find that it is carefully imitated both in the case of real hair and of wigs4 ,the effect is now usually produced artificially only in connection with ladies' hair4 ,when dealing with this branch of the subject1 once more we might allude to the monstrous toilets which have been built up in defiance of all laws of proportion and1 we might add1 of comfort and cleanliness also4 ,to utilize the hair from the heads of others is an ancient practice still to be met with1 and all sorts of means for making the most of one's own hair in the shape of pads and so on are still adopted4 ,when speaking of footmen1 we shall find that those who dress in the costume that was in fashion when hair powder was in vogue still wear it1 and the custom has been traced to the days of ,rome1 when gold dust was put upon the head4 ,it has been suggested that our ,saxon forerunners used coloured hair powder or else dyed their hair1 but the evidence comes from ,saxon drawings in which the hair is often painted blue1 and this may be due merely to the caprice of the artist4 ,it is well to be wary also in studying the colour of clothes at early periods1 by looking at pictures1 to remember that the illuminators may have followed their own fancy1 and made garments of such colours as fitted in with their own ideas of ornament4 ,though the use of wigs is extremely ancient1 the origin1 which is customarily ascribed to the peruke1 is interesting4 ,many curious fashions have arisen through royal peculiarities or temporary indispositions1 the courtiers having imitated their royal master or mistress1 out of compliment4 ,louis ,,xiv had1 when a child1 remarkably beautiful hair1 which fell in curls on to his shoulders1 and to imitate this1 his courtiers put on false hair1 while later in life the king himself adopted the fashion which they had set4 ,the obvious use of artificial additions to the hair has now been discontinued for very many years except in a few cases4 ,judges and barristers with a few ,parliamentary and other officials still wear wigs1 as do also certain coachmen and footmen1 but these we shall consider elsewhere4 ,it will prove of no small interest after recalling the various modes of doing the hair which ladies have adopted during the last twenty or thirty years1 to compare them with the fashions in ,egypt in ,roman times about two hundred years before the ,christian era4 ,the reason why we can do this so well is that the ,romano-,egyptians put on the top of their coffins a model of the head of the person who was buried in it4 ,professor ,flinders ,petrie has shown that the effigies were really portraits1 and even a glance at some of them would go far to prove the statement4 ,professor ,petrie made composite photographs of the face on the outside of the coffin and of the skull within1 and both in the profile as well as in the full-face pictures it was seen that the plaster model clothed the skull1 as it were1 with flesh4 ,to return to the question of hair dressing1 if one examines ,plate ,,vii we shall see first of all a lady with corkscrew curls1 which were more prevalent in the last century than they are now1 though they have not yet died out4 ,then we have a lady with a very elaborate fringe1 another who allows her hair to fall in waves on her forehead1 and it forms a chignon at the back4 ,lastly 7,plate ,,vii1 ,figure ,b7 a little girl with a small bun on the top of her head4 ,another specimen1 not figured here1 and also contained in the celebrated ,myers ,collection1 shows the bun exactly as it was worn at the end of the last century4 ,we have included two heads 7,plate ,,vii1 ,figures ,a and ,f71 one of a boy and the other of a man1 showing the great likeness that exists between the way in which hair was done more than two thousand years ago and at the present day4 ,besides the methods of hair arrangement which have survived or been revived1 there are certain little features still to be seen here and there in modern dress which owe their origin to the ways in which hair or wigs were dressed4 ,a remnant of the bag-wig1 with its great bow of black ribbon1 we may find in the army4 ,for a long time on the backs of the collars of the officers and staff-sergeants of the ,welsh ,fusiliers there have been fixed some ribbons which hang down their back4 ,these1 which are few in number1 are called the flash1 and are said to represent the bow which used to ornament the bag-wig4 ,a hundred years ago the officers of the regiment wore their hair turned up behind1 and it was then tied with a bow4 ,this is in keeping with another explanation which ,mr4 ,r4 ,simkin has given us1 which is that the flash is the survival of a bunch of ribbons that were sewn on the back of the coat-collar to protect it from the pomatum and powder of the clubbed or queued hair4 ,the privilege of wearing the flash has recently been extended to all ranks of the regiment 7see ,figure #aji74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aji4--,the flash of five black ribbons on the collar of the ,welsh ,fusiliers4 ,a survival from the days of the pigtail4 ,a survival of the same kind1 which takes us back to the time of wigs1 is to be seen on the backs of the collars of several court dresses1 and it is known technically as the wig-bag4 ,it is also1 as we have had occasion to mention1 to be seen on the back of the collar of the liveries of some servants whose dress is in the old style1 and here1 as in the case of the ,lord ,mayor's coachman1 it looks as if it had originated in a bow 7see ,figure #aac74 ,,xiv ,,special ,,dresses ,,fashions ,,kept ,,up ,,by ,,ceremonies--,,survivals ,,in ,,special ,,costume--,,flowing ,,garments ,in the foregoing pages we have been concerned chiefly with individual parts of costume1 and while showing how various garments have reached their present form1 we have busied ourselves with discovering the origin of many important survivals4 ,we have not however hesitated1 in dealing with these details1 to touch on all kinds of costumes1 and here and there we have left civilians' dress for a moment to take an illustration from that of the soldier or the member of some other profession4 ,at the same time1 we have indicated that on occasions of ceremony1 whether religious or otherwise1 the dress adopted is1 as a rule1 more primitive or older in style than that which is customarily worn4 ,this is what might be expected1 as1 on the one hand1 innate conservatism and objection to change come into play1 and1 on the other1 ordinary everyday practical matters being for the time put on one side1 it is possible to wear clothes which otherwise would be inconvenient and liable to get damaged4 ,when we ourselves dress for dinner we go back nearly a century1 but nothing could be more primitive than the ,court etiquette of certain tribes1#af where the subjects of the king may only approach him when entirely unclothed4 ,livingstone was received by the ,queen of the ,balonde ,negroes in ,south ,africa when she was in a state of complete nudity4 ,the women of neighbouring tribes and members of other races1 for instance those in ,australia1 entirely remove their clothing on festive occasions4 ,among some black races1 also1 the girls who are sent as official messengers to important persons are not clothed4 ,there are still certain tribes of leaf wearers in ,india1 while at a yearly festival in ,madras the whole low-caste population throw off their ordinary clothing and put on aprons of leafy twigs4 ,another case in point is that of the priests who conducted the sacrifices in ancient ,italy and ,greece1 for they are often represented on monuments as being naked1 while the rest of those present at the ceremony are fully clothed4 ,in taking up the question of ceremonial dress among civilized peoples1 we find that we have a very wide field in which to wander4 ,we have the ,court1 which might alone occupy our whole attention2 we have naval1 military1 ecclesiastical1 and legal dress1 the garb of the universities1 the costume of pantomime characters1 of the acrobat1 of the athlete1 and the liveries of servants1 besides the costumes adopted for special ceremonies and in connection with particular institutions4 ,in treating of survivals in the case of the army1 where the variety in uniform--if we may use this paradoxical expression--is so great1 we may content ourselves with discussing matters in a way similar to that which we have adopted before4 ,on the other hand1 we may also describe and illustrate particular costumes1 as a whole1 while showing how far their history may carry us back4 ,in addition to the clothes actually worn by persons1 there are those which are found on dolls4 ,these may be on the representations of personages such as ,st4 ,nicholas1 on the ,continent and elsewhere1 and they are interesting because in many cases they may show a national costume which is no longer worn4 ,in the same way1 puppets such as are used in the play which we know as ,punch and ,judy1 and their dresses1 like others which we have studied1 may bring to our notice chapters of history in a way that is exceedingly attractive4 ,there is no doubt but that long flowing garments produce a more elegant effect1 and give rise to a more stately appearance than those which are short or tight fitting4 ,in the case of men1 such garments would now be too much in the way on ordinary occasions1 or when any physical exertion is required4 ,the king and noblemen on state occasions wear robes1 as do also the members of ,city companies and borough councillors when they assemble together4 ,the case of the clergy will occur to every one1 and legal and academical dress may also be mentioned4 ,in the privacy of the home it is possible for every man to wear a dressing-gown1 and pyjamas have not in all cases superseded the more primitive nightshirt4 ,in the case of ladies1 we find that they cling lovingly to long dresses1 though1 as we know1 there is much effort being made to dispense with skirts under ordinary conditions1 and the fact that short skirts have for some years been fashionable for outdoor use looks as if some progress were being made4 ,,xv ,,servants' ,,dress ,,the ,,prototypes ,,of ,,liveries--,,reminiscences ,,of ,,george ,,ii ,,and ,,george ,,iii--,,origin ,,of ,,the ,,page-,,boy',s ,,buttons--,,the ,,jockey ,,cap--,,aprons ,in taking up the question of special costumes1 we may perhaps begin with those which we see most commonly1 and for that reason we may turn our attention1 in the first place1 to the liveries and dress of servants4 ,we have laid down a sort of rule that the costume of servants is that of the master of an earlier generation1 and we will now bring forward some evidence in support of it4 ,modern coachmen and outdoor footmen wear the tall hat1 the bright buttons1 doeskin breeches and the top boots characteristic of the outdoor and riding dress of the gentlemen at the beginning of the nineteenth century4 ,the groom1 it will be noticed 7see ,figure #aaj71 wears in addition a leather belt1 and the reason for this will not perhaps strike the inquirer straight away4 ,our grandmothers and great-grandmothers did not always drive in carriages1 and it was customary for them1 when riding on horseback1 to sit on a pillion behind a gentleman or a servant4 ,the belt which we now see round the waist of a groom afforded a hold to which they had to cling1 in order to prevent themselves from falling off the horse4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aaj4--,the modern groom1 showing the belt to which ladies clung when riding on a pillion4 ,such a livery as we have described is also adopted by the general run of well-to-do people4 ,the aristocracy1 however1 are more inclined to stand upon ceremony1 and through it to make more show4 ,their footmen1 who go by the generic name of ,jeames1 wear plush breeches1 silk stockings1 and powdered hair4 7,see ,figure #aaa47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aaa4--;,a footman in plush breeches and with powdered hair4 ,his pouter coat dates from the reign of ,george ,,iii4 7,by the courtesy of ,messrs4 ,f4 ,t4 ,prewett and ,co47 ,a little inquiry will soon show that these peculiarities of dress were those which it pleased the gentlemen of ,george ,,iii's time to adopt4 ,some flunkeys belonging to the nobility have their breasts ornamented with cords known as aiguillettes1 and these give them somewhat of a military appearance1 besides reminding us of the old retainers4 ,the coats that go with the plush breeches and are cut away so as to recall the wings of a pigeon--hence the name pouter coat--are a special feature of ,george ,,iii's reign4 ,the coachman's coat is usually a little fuller in the skirt1 and carries us back to the time of ,george ,,ii4 ,in another way this costume is a little older in its style than that of the footman who powders his own hair instead of wearing a wig like his colleague4 7,see ,figure #aab47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aab4--;,a sheriff's coachman with the full-skirted coat of the time of ,george ,,ii4 7,by the courtesy of ,messrs4 ,f4 ,t4 ,prewett and ,co47 ,in connection with the ,lord ,mayor more ceremony still is maintained4 ,his coachmen and footmen appear in all the glory of three-cornered hats1 which are decorated with feathers1 and their coats are highly ornamented4 ,they are representatives of the very fine gentlemen of ,george ,,iii's time4 ,on the back of the collar of the ,lord ,mayor's coachman1 we find an arrangement that looks like an elaborately made rosette of black ribbon 7see ,figure #aac74 ,this is a survival of the bag-wig1 of which we shall have occasion to speak again when dealing with ,court and military dress1 so that we need not go into further details here with regard to this curious vestige4 7,see page #bbi1 ,figure #adc47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aac4--,the wig-bag 7a survival of the bag-wig7 now seen on the back of the collar of the ,lord ,mayor's coachman4 ,this is a progressive age1 in spite of the many survivals which still flourish1 and when we come to consider the costume of the modern manservant who attends at table1 or the waiter in the restaurant1 we find that he has come out of his generation1 as it were1 and has adopted the dress of his masters before they have themselves discarded it4 ,confusion has arisen through this before now1 and it has been suggested that if ornamental buttons were worn by the man who serves1 the difficulty would be overcome4 ,the writer well remembers being amused when standing in a room at a well-known restaurant1 where a private dinner was to be given1 to notice the change which suddenly came over the dress of the waiters4 ,when the latter first arrived they had black cloth buttons on their coats1 while in a few minutes' time1 these same garments were adorned with brass buttons bearing the initials of the firm that provided the dinner4 ,inquiry soon elicited the fact that the men carried with them small brass cases which were sprung on to their ordinary buttons1 and at once gave them the appearance of being on the staff1 and showed that they were waiters4 ,the almost overwhelming number of buttons which are worn by page-boys must have been a source of wonder to many4 ,they run from neck to waist of a tight-fitting jacket in such a crowded line that the pages usually go by the name of ,buttons4 ,occasionally we see the livery ornamented by two other rows of buttons which are useless1 and run from the shoulder towards the waist 7see ,figure #aad7 in a way similar to that described as being the case on the coats of ,his ,majesty's postilions4 ,on looking at an old book#ag of fashions we find that a costume called the ,dutch ,skeleton ,dress was very fashionable for young boys in #ahbf 7see ,figure #aae74 ,in this we find that there were brass buttons arranged in three rows1 similar to those we have just described4 ,it is difficult even in the modern page-boy's dress to see the lower edge of his coat1 but in the case of the small boy of #ahbf it was impossible1 because his trousers were buttoned on to the outside of it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aad4--;,a modern page-boy's livery4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aae4--,the ,dutch skeleton dress1 fashionable for boys in #ahbf4 ,the name of the skeleton dress is interesting1 because it points to the buttons marking out the position of the breast bone1 and it recalls the story that the lacing on the breast of ,hussars1 which we have interpreted as representing enlarged buttonholes1 was intended to give the appearance of ribs4 ,this would be in keeping with the figure of a skull that was worn by some of them on their head-dress4 ,we may imagine that in the page-boys1 with the superabundance of buttons in one row1 that the other two series have migrated and joined with those which originally fastened the coat4 ,on special occasions such as weddings and coronations1 the nobility and members of old families dress their servants in state liveries1 and some very interesting costumes appear for the time4 ,for instance1 at the wedding of the ,duke of ,norfolk in #ahgg1 some of the coachmen and footmen appeared wearing on the shoulder of their livery a manche or large hanging sleeve1 which is familiar to students of heraldry and may be the origin of the sign usually called the ,crooked ,billet4 ,an interesting little survival is sometimes seen on livery collars4 ,it is a little patch of lace1 and is an imitation of the knotched buttonhole or laced hole which was commonly made on elaborate dresses4 ,we get a survival of a livery cap1 which was worn by servants generally in the middle of the eighteenth century1 in the black cap worn by the drum-major of the ,foot ,guards and the bands of the ,household ,cavalry4 ,we find that it is also adopted by huntsmen and postilions 7see ,figure #hi71 while jockey caps are of a similar shape4 ,the costume of jockeys is an instance of parti-coloured dress which1 apart from the ,stage1 is now chiefly worn in connection with sports such as football and racing4 ,some parti-coloured garments made their appearance early in ,english history1 as we shall see when dealing with the subject of patterns4 ,the cockade is now a particular feature of the liveried servant1 and as the story of its evolution is of a particularly striking nature1 we will consider it in a special chapter4 ,here and there we find survivals of the old beadle1 with his three-cornered hat and his long gown with its curious capes and its bright edging4 ,to find the original wearer of such garments we shall have to look about at the end of the seventeenth century4 ,the watch then wore very large coats with many capes1 and from these was developed that of the beadle4 ,no doubt colours and other ornamentation were produced so as to bring the dress of the beadle more into the line with liveries and to give him a more ornamental and imposing appearance4 ,we might also mention that the beadle1 to whom we shall once more allude1 still makes his appearance and plays his part in the ,punch and ,judy show4 ,when we recall the many and varied liveries which the porters belonging to the various places of amusement and business establishments now wear1 we cannot help drawing attention to the magnitude of the problem which would confront any one who desired to trace the origin of their clothes4 ,in one detail or another we see the remains of an old livery1 while turning from these we find a gaily coloured plastron borrowed from a ,hussar uniform1 and besides the cap there are a host of other features which have been taken from military and civilian dress4 ,railway porters if not menials are the servants of the companies which employ them1 and there is one feature of their dress which is worthy of note4 ,it will be seen that their waistcoats1 although generally built on the same plan as that of the ordinary individual and having a linen back1 are provided with sleeves4 ,it is truly a coat which comes to the waist1 such as we shall speak of when dealing with the dress of the ,guards and other regiments1 and it is usually the outermost garment of the porter4 ,if we now turn to the costume of the gentleman1 we shall find a very good instance of what ,mr4 ,paley ,baildon claims to be done whenever a new garment is adopted4 ,he says that it is always put on over all the others4 ,in the case of the ordinary civilian we have the waistcoat1 which was originally an outer garment4 ,then comes the frock-coat or surtout1 which at the beginning of the nineteenth century was an overcoat1 and over this again in cold weather the modern ulster or top-coat is put4 ,no consideration of servants' dress would be complete without an allusion to the cap and apron of the house- or parlour-maid4 ,to begin with1 we see in these a survival of the special dresses which were once adopted by particular trades4 ,the fact that the cap is white points to a connection with the early head-dresses of women which we see now perpetuated by the nuns1 and which are relics of the time when it was customary to have linen caps and hoods4 ,perhaps there is some connection between the cap of the servant and the custom which condemns women to wear their hats in church and makes them feel desirous of keeping them on their heads at all kinds of public entertainments4 ,on this question1 however1 we shall have a word to say later4 ,sometimes servants' caps have strings which1 like those that are customarily found on bonnets and on mitres 7see page #ed71 are the survival of the ends of a head fillet4 ,the latest development in this direction is a scarf which is allowed to hang down from the backs of ladies' hats1 and which may be of so substantial a nature that it looks very much like a fringed towel4 ,the apron can claim a long history1 and just as the plush and powder of the footman were once worn by his master1 so we may easily discover that the apron was not always the special attribute of those who work or serve4 ,towards the end of the seventeenth century aprons were considered an almost essential part of a fine lady's costume4 ,a little later on1 ,queen ,anne made and wore them herself1 and very gaily ornamented garments they were4 ,in the case of the lower classes1 aprons were--as they still often are--provided with bibs4 ,the old name for them was barme-cloth1 and under this title ,chaucer refers to the apron of ,carpenter's wife as being as white as the morning milk4 ,unless the article of dress which we are discussing was of considerable age1 we should hardly have the proverbial expression which defines a man who is always at home as being tied to his wife's apron-strings4 ,another name for an apron with a bib which was pinned to the front of the dress was pinner1 which gives us the word pinafore1 which refers now to a kind of overall rather than to an apron4 ,in the costumes of the barge-women and milk-women1 where we get a slight survival of characteristic country dress1 we have seen that in both cases the apron is always adopted as part of the outfit4 7,see ,plate ,,viii47 ,illustration3 ,a ,,barge ,,girl ,,with ,,the ,,characteristic ,,bonnet ,,and ,,apron4 ,,she ,,is ,,not ,,wearing ,,her ,,small ,,plaid ,,shawl4 7,from a photograph by ,wakefield1 ,brentford47 ,,plate ,,viii4 ,the uniform of the hospital nurse partakes somewhat of that of the nun1 but at the same time the apron is often one of its most important features4 ,we mention this uniform here because it has become customary of recent years for the nurses who look after the children of well-to-do families to assume the bonnet and veil and severely cut collars and cuffs of the hospital nurse4 ,here again we get a case on all fours with the adoption of evening dress by waiters1 and the gradual assumption by the lower classes of the dress of their social superiors4 ,,xvi ,,cockades ,,the ,,cockade ,a ,,degenerated ,,chaperon--,,the ,,varieties ,,of ,,the ,,cockade--,,cockade ,,wearers ,the cockade as we know it 7see ,figure #aaf7 is now commonly worn by servants1 but1 like their clothes generally1 it was once used by their masters4 ,the books of an old-established firm of hat manufacturers show that as late as #aghi cockades were worn by gentlemen themselves4 ,apparently in the beginning1 the sporting of a black cockade meant allegiance to the ,house of ,hanover4 ,now the use of the ornaments is supposed to be confined to the servants of ,royalty and of those in the ,royal service1 though this does not seem to be actually the case4 ,in a letter to the ,morning ,post#ah ,messrs4 ,andr and ,co4 say that the practice has long been regarded as a convenient and fitting sign of social distinction1 and that only such persons should assume the cockade as enjoy hereditary rank or else some position of importance in the ,state1 including all officers1 military and civil4 ,yet they can find no trace of the question even having been dealt with by any authority1 nor have the classes of persons privileged to display the cockade been at any time accurately defined4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aaf4--,the cockade1 known as the large treble1 representing a survival of the chaperon4 ,sir ,alfred ,scott ,gatty1 ,garter ,king-at-,arms1 points out that the matter is really outside the ,college of ,arms1 and it does not come under the jurisdiction of the ,lord ,chamberlain's department1 which usually arranges all matters connected with official dress4 ,before1 however1 we touch on the various kinds of cockades1 and mention those by whom the different types are at present worn1 it will be well to deal with the construction and evolution of the cockade1 and we shall be able to show that it has considerable claims to be considered something more than a mere conventional rosette4 ,as regards actual material1 the basis of the cockade consists of leather1 which is japanned1 while a certain amount of ribbon may also be used4 ,in the case of mourning1 we find that the cockade should properly be covered with black cloth 7see ,figure #aag71 but nowadays a piece of crape is often twisted round the one generally worn4 ,the ribbon is usually merely a small bow tied in the middle of the rosette 7see ,figure #aaf71 but the centre of the latter may be covered with ribbon and the bow replaced by a button4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aag4--;,a treble cockade covered with black cloth for mourning4 ,the concentric circles would appear to represent the twisted liripipe of the chaperon4 ,the cockades worn by the ,royal servants on the front of their three-cornered hats on state occasions 7see ,figure #abj7 are large4 ,the rosette has points1 while the upper part1 or fan1 shows them in profusion1 and there is no silk bow4 ,the ,royal cockade for semi-state has a simple fan1 while that worn on the silk hat at ordinary times 7see ,figure #aba7 has no fan1 but the edges are cut into points and there is a bow of ribbon in the centre4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aah4--,treble cockade used by ,chelsea pensioners4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aai4--,the ,regent cockade4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abj4--,royal cockade for state occasions4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aba4--,ordinary ,royal cockade4 ,the ordinary fan cockade is used in various sizes1 and is shown in ,figure #aaf4 ,this is called the treble1 and has a bow of ribbon as a rule4 ,a curious variety worn by the ,chelsea ,pensioners has no ribbon1 while a segment is cut from the lower part of the rosette 7see ,figure #aah74 ,the only other variety with regard to shape that we have now to mention is the regent cockade1 which is exactly like the treble1 but without the fan4 7,see ,figure #aai47 ,illustration3 ,two stages in the evolution of the chaperon4 ,,fig4 #abb4--;,combined hood and cape4 ,,fig4 #abc4--;,enlargement of the peak of the hood to form the liripipe4 7,after ,calthrop1 by kind permission of ,messrs4 ,a4 and ,c4 ,black47 ,it appears that the cockade can lay claim to have been descended from a very ancient and curious form of head-dress1 and ,mr4 ,calthrop#ai has traced in a very interesting way the development of this1 as well as of the cockade which is a survival of it in miniature4 ,the head-dress in question was called a chaperon1 and came into favour in the time of ,richard ,,ii4 ,it was itself derived from a hood and a cape which were originally worn separately1 but afterwards the two were joined together for convenience1 so that they could both be donned at the same time4 ,fashion lengthened out the peak of the hood extravagantly until it reached nearly to the ground1 and then the prolongation was called a liripipe4 ,next it was ordained that the whole arrangement should be twisted up round the head1 so that what was in the beginning a cape with jagged edges stuck out on one side like a cock's comb4 ,illustration3 ,further development of the chaperon4 ,,fig4 #abd4--;,cape and liripipe made into a head-dress that can be altered at will4 ,,fig4 #abe4--;,a chaperon ready made up1 in order to save trouble4 7,after ,calthrop1 by kind permission of ,messrs4 ,a4 and ,c4 ,black47 ,it will be noticed that the modern cockade shows the jagged edges sticking up1 and it would appear that the rosette represents a coiled-up liripipe4 ,even to-day cockades are of various colours1 and1 as ,mr4 ,calthrop points out1 the servant's chaperon from which it was derived used to bear the colours of the master's livery4 ,the chaperon is also to be seen on the robes of the ,knights of the ,garter at the present day1 where it is fixed on the right shoulder as a kind of cape4 7,see ,figure #add47 ,mr4 ,calthrop also points out that the present head-dress of the ,french lawyer is another descendant of the chaperon1 and that the buttons worn by the members of the ,legion of ,honour and other foreign ,orders are connected with the same idea4 ,a writer in the ,sketch#bj sees in the rosette and fan of the treble cockade the remnants of the crown and star which we see on military uniforms4 ,he says that the earlier forms seem to have been made of metal1 which must surely be a mistake1 though the cock of the hat was1 as we know1 sometimes fastened up with a brooch4 ,the example which he figures1 however1 and uses in support of his theory1 is evidently a helmet plate which displays the star1 garter1 and ,st4 ,george's ,cross1 the whole being surmounted by a crown1 and in the cockade he claims to see all these elements in a modified condition4 ,if this derivation of the cockade were correct1 it would be in keeping with the quotation which the same writer gives from ,cussan's ,handbook of ,heraldry1 that the privilege of wearing a cockade is confined to the servants of officers in the ,king's service1 or those who by courtesy may be regarded as such4 ,the theory is that the servant is a private soldier who when not wearing his uniform retains this badge as a mark of his profession4 ,we cannot help thinking that ,mr4 ,calthrop's derivation of the cockade is more feasible1 though it is not easy to see the remains of the coiled-up liripipe of the chaperon in the way which ,mr4 ,calthrop represents it in his sketch4#ba ,in the majority of the cockades there is no trace of a spiral such as he indicates in his figure1 though in the mourning cockade1 concentric rings are very clearly shown4 ,a word may now be said as to those whose coachmen and footmen wear cockades4 ,the ,royal cockade is used by the servants of the ,king1 and by those belonging to members of the ,royal ,household4 ,it is large and circular1 as we have seen1 and half the disk projects above the top of the hat4 ,the regent cockade1 which has no fan1 is worn by the servants of naval officers1 and no part of it is allowed to project above the hat4 ,the servants of the officers in the ,army1 ,yeomanry1 ,militia1 and ,volunteers wear the treble cockade with the fan1 as do also the ,lords ,lieutenant and their deputies1 as well as the servants of the members of the ,diplomatic ,corps4 ,besides this1 it appears that the same kind of cockade is worn by the servants of the following3 ,all peers and their sons and daughters1 baronets1 knights1 and sheriffs1 judges1 justices1 and magistrates2 members and high officers of ,parliament and of the ,civil ,service2 dignitaries of the ,church1 ,king's ,counsel1 and law officers of the ,crown4 ,english ambassadors have the fan painted with three stripes of red1 white1 and blue1 and while the edge of the rosette is red1 the next part is white1 and the centre blue4 ,in this case also the ribbon in the centre shows the same three colours4 ,the cockade of the ,danish ambassador is of ordinary black leather1 but the centre is covered with a rosette of ribbon1 red at the edge1 with a circle of white next to it1 and green in the centre1 while the whole is finished off with an ornamental black button or knob4 ,other foreign ambassadors have their cockades coloured upon the same principle as the ,english2 but in some the colours are shown on the fan in bands instead of in stripes1 and the centre of the rosette may have segments of different colours instead of rings4 ,in the case of the ,french ambassador the colours on the fan are in stripes1 while those of the rosette are in segments4 ,of recent years cockades have been reduced in size until they have become mere pigmies in connection with the uniform of chauffeurs1 or motorcar drivers4 ,the latter customarily wear a military kind of hat with a mushroom top1 and as a cockade fastened on the side of one of these would not look elegant1 a very small cockade is now made and fixed in the front of the cap just above the peak4 ,would not one of the wearers of the old cock's-comb turbans be amazed if he could see the most recent outcome of his head-dress in its modern surroundings8 ,there seems to be little doubt but that the cockade forms part of the livery of many who have no recognized right to it4 ,perhaps the ease with which it can be assumed is shown by the price lists of jobmasters1 in which we find1 after the charge for the hire of broughams and victorias1 a footnote to the effect that cockades are #f;d4 extra if required4 ,,xvii ,,children',s ,,dress ,,survivals ,,in ,,children',s ,,dress--,,special ,,school ,,costumes--,,the ,,blue-,,coat ,,boy--,,public ,,school ,,boys--,,adoption ,,of ,a ,,special ,,dress ,,at ,,girls' ,,schools ,children's costume1 though characteristic1 is in some instances connected with ceremonies1 and in others with particular institutions2 it may therefore with advantage be considered at this point4 ,we find that for very many centuries in this country1 children1 except when small babies and in their early years1 were dressed practically in the same way as their parents1 and looked like men and women in miniature4 ,the ludicrous effect that was sometimes produced is well seen in ,hogarth's engravings1 which date from the time when infants were powdered and patched as well as dressed in a way that made them truly grotesque4 ,a relic of this custom is still to be seen in certain costumes which it is now fashionable for children to wear4 ,possibly the sailor's suit takes the most prominent place1 and the ,highland dress is also a favourite4 ,it is perhaps not very strange that we do not see little boys going about in the uniform of policemen1 and until the ,south ,african war occupied the attention of this country1 boys were seldom if ever seriously dressed as soldiers1 but during the struggle to which allusion has been made1 it was not an uncommon sight to see small boys in the khaki uniform and slouch hats which were adopted by the troops in ,africa4 ,now1 of course1 the knickerbockers of the small boy1 and the short skirts of his little sisters1 though not absolutely characteristic of extreme youth1 are recognized features of children's costume4 ,as regards small infants1 it is still customary for some time after they are born to wrap more or less of a bandage round them in order to protect their tender bodies from injury4 ,the modern binder is1 of course1 a relic of swaddling clothes1 or those which consisted of a profusion of bandages4 ,these still survive in the ,holy ,land4 ,it may here be said that we meet in the word pupa1 which is the scientific term that we apply to a chrysalis1 with the old ,greek name for a baby in swaddling clothes4 ,it is used now because the wings and legs of the future flying insect are hidden in something the same way as are the legs and arms of the much trussed-up baby4 ,from the same word we get the name puppet and the ,french word poupe1 meaning a doll4 ,in ,roman ,catholic churches at the time of baptism it is still the custom to place on the head of the baby a white cloth4 ,it is now too small to cover the body1 and it is called the chrysome1 or chrism cloth1 and with it once the newly-baptized infant was swathed4 ,this was worn for a month by the child1 and if the latter died within that time the cloth was used as a shroud4 ,the chrysome is really the remains of a series of vestments which in the sixth or seventh century were worn by the newly baptized4 ,the most important part of the costume was the albe1 which was probably similar to that worn by the clergy1 and a chaplet of flowers was also used to crown the child after baptism4 ,there are in this country still a few monumental brasses called chrysom brasses showing babies in their baptismal robes4 ,a case where the child is swathed up even more rigidly than was customary in the old world is to be seen in the case of the ,north ,american ,indian papoose1 which is fastened down to a cradle of board or basket work1 and at first is so fixed by the swaddling process that only its head is movable4 ,in some instances several months elapse before even the arms are allowed to be free1 and these are fastened up again at night4 ,it is probably owing to deformities that were at first accidentally caused by this bandaging process1 that the fashions arose which demand that the shape of the skull in certain races shall be intentionally and artificially altered4 ,to this subject1 however1 we shall refer again when dealing with the question of the effects of clothes upon the body4 ,as might well be imagined1 the petticoats of small boys are a survival1 and one which is to be commended in every way4 ,the putting of infants at an early age into jersey knickerbocker suits cannot but be bad for them physically1 and it makes them look for all the world like little woollen monkeys4 ,mr4 ,druitt#bb has described as many as seven brasses of various dates between the years #aehe and #afdb1 which show boys dressed in petticoats4 ,dr4 ,alice ,vickery thinks that it would be well if infant boys and girls were dressed exactly alike1 say up to the age of five or seven4 ,she says it is difficult to judge the extent to which sex bias is imbibed in the earliest years1 and we should do our best to postpone it as long as possible4 ,she continues#bc3--;,if boys and girls were dressed alike1 taught together and played together1 this would do much to direct attention away from1 instead of towards1 sex distinction4 ,the longer such a system could be maintained the longer would be the period during which rewards and punishments1 praise and blame1 would attach to actions and conduct1 to the exercise of self-control1 kindliness and generosity1 efficiency1 industry and alertness1 quite apart from all intrusions of sex idea1 and its possibilities of subjection and predominance4 ,that would in itself be a great gain4 ,the best school for the training of life and conduct is the school of equality1 where privilege and subjection are alike unknown1 and the co-education of the sexes is a step in the direction of justice and fraternity4 ,there is one point more on which ,i will add a few words4 ,i have always been a great sceptic as to the essential physical inferiority of the feminine4 ,it is true that in the aggregate that inferiority does exist1 but where can we find a place1 a people among whom the development of girlhood has had full and free scope8 ,the custom for young girls to wear their hair down is also an old one1 though married ladies of the fifteenth century are occasionally represented with flowing tresses4 ,at the present day1 as a rule1 when a girl puts up her hair her petticoats are usually lengthened simultaneously4 ,the age at which these important changes are made varies4 ,for instance1 if a girl has a number of unmarried sisters older than herself1 the time is often put off4 ,sometimes the term old-fashioned is synonymous with sensible1 and people with such ideas very often keep their girls in short frocks until they are really grown up4 ,the two changes in the girls' method of dressing are not1 however1 always made at the same time4 ,in the upper classes we find a tendency for the long dress to come first4 ,girls1 on the other hand1 who have to go out into the world as nursemaids and kitchenmaids1 may1 in order to make themselves look older and more sedate1 put up their hair while they are still in short frocks1 though it must be said that the effect is not quite pleasing if it is business-like4 ,in the bib of the infant we find a relative of that part of the apron or the more voluminous pinafore which covers the chest4 ,although grown-up women sometimes wear pinafores1 these1 like the bibs1 must now be considered as part of children's dress1 though no doubt in the beginning they were derived from the costume of grown-up people4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 ,a4 ,,the ,,cap ,,worn ,,by ,,the ,,scholars ,,of ,,christ',s ,,hospital ,,until ,,the ,,middle ,,of ,,the ,,nineteenth ,,century4 ,,fig4 ,b4 ,a ,,scholar ,,of ,,christ',s ,,hospital4 7,by the courtesy of the ,rev4 ,a4 ,w4 ,upcott1 ,m4,a41 ,headmaster of ,christ's ,hospital47 ,,plate ,,ix4 ,the next subject that we may appropriately consider here is that of the characteristic costumes which are worn in certain schools4 ,in connection with boys1 the first case which immediately comes to mind is that of the ,blue-coat boys1 as the scholars of ,christ's ,hospital1 which was founded in #aeeb1 have come to be called4 ,their blue coat is part of the ordinary dress of the citizen of the reign of ,edward ,,vi1 and the scholarly man at this time had the skirts of his blue coat long1 while in other cases they were cut off at the knee4 ,instead of trunks1 however1 the ,blue-coat boy wears more modern knickerbockers1 but he clings to his yellow stockings4 7,see ,plate ,,ix1 ,figure ,b47 ,the scholars of ,christ's ,hospital have discarded caps 7see ,plate ,,ix1 ,figure ,a71 but the one which should go with their dress is flat1 like the one which came into fashion in the reign just mentioned4 ,it was the one afterwards called the statute cap1 when ,elizabeth for the good of trade ordered that one cap of wool1 knitted thick and dressed in ,england1 was to be worn by all over six years of age except such persons as had twenty marks a year in land and their heirs and such as have borne office of worship4 ,a cap of the same kind was worn by ,edward ,,vi1 and is still part of the dress of ,beef-eaters at the ,tower of ,london4 ,the blue coat afterwards came to be the ordinary livery of serving-men in the sixteenth and early part of the seventeenth centuries1 and blue is still a popular colour for coachmen's liveries at the present day4 ,in a similar way we find that certain schools are called grey-coat or green-coat schools1 and we have blue schools--for instance1 one for boys and another for girls at ,wells4 ,then there is the ,red ,maid ,school1 which was established in #afbg at ,bristol1 and in accordance with the founder's will the girls are dressed in red frocks1 with white aprons and tippets and plain straw bonnets1 trimmed with blue ribbon4 ,in connection with this foundation it may be said that #ej is set on one side each year for the award of marriage portions to girls who have left the school4 ,our public schools afford us very interesting cases of special dresses4 ,perhaps no other coat which a boy wears is so well known as the ,eton jacket4 ,this is accompanied by a tall silk hat4 ,king's scholars who are on the foundation and live in ,college also wear an academical gown of fairly ample proportions4 ,the ,eton jacket was not always black1 and originally the head-dress was a mortar-board1 and there was a broad lace collar or bands round the neck 7see page #dg74 ,the black coats and top hats were introduced in #ahbj as mourning for ,king ,george ,,iii1 and have been worn ever since4 ,the broad collar which takes its name from ,eton is probably a survival of lace bands1 and is worn over the jacket in the same way4 ,very similar coats are also worn by the younger boys at ,westminster and at ,harrow4 ,in the latter case the jacket finishes off in a small point at the back1 whereas the jacket worn at ,eton is cut straight4 ,the older boys at ,eton wear a morning coat1 a stick-up collar1 and a white tie4 ,this white tie is also worn by the masters1 whether they be clerks in holy orders or not1 and it seems to be a survival of a white choker which was wound round and round the stick-up collar1 though1 on the other hand1 it may represent academical bands4 ,at ,winchester the scholars wear bands1 and this is no doubt connected with the use of academical dress1 for it is usual for the boys on the foundation of public schools1 as we have seen to be the case at ,eton1 to wear gowns4 ,the upper boys at ,harrow1 on the other hand1 wear dress-coats with swallow tails2 but should1 however1 a lower boy outgrow his short jacket1 he is given what is called charity tails4 ,when speeches are made at ,eton1 those who take part in the performance wear dress-coats1 knee-breeches1 silk stockings1 and buckled shoes4 ,some costumes have probably been in existence since the foundation and endowment of the schools1 and we can find parallel cases in the dress of some almshouses and hospitals for pensioners4 ,probably the idea originally underlying the wearing of a special dress is the same as is to be seen in modern charity schools1 where all the boys or girls are dressed alike4 ,it must simplify the tailoring and dressmaking arrangements1 but at the same time it intentionally or unintentionally brands the children4 ,nevertheless1 we see that the boys at most aristocratic and celebrated schools are in very much the same kind of boat4 ,to return to ,eton again1 we might mention one or two fashions in the ordinary dress which are curious4 ,it is ordained that the lowest button of the waistcoat should be left unbuttoned and the bottom of the trousers should be turned up1 while it is part of the performance to thrust the hands deeply into the trouser pockets4 ,if a boy elects to wear an overcoat1 and he does not occupy a certain definite position or status in the school1 public opinion forces him to keep the collar of his top coat turned up4 ,of course1 schools generally1 and sometimes the various houses in important schools1 make a particular point of school or house colours4 ,at ,eton1 on the ,fourth of ,june1 in connection with the boating there are interesting ornamentations added to the straw hats in the shape of flowers1 and three boys who act as coxswains wear the uniform of an admiral and carry bouquets4 ,the ,fourth of ,june celebrations were instituted to take the place of the festival known as the ,eton ,montem4 ,the ceremony consisted of a procession to a little hill near ,slough1 when many old and interesting costumes were worn4 ,the custom came to an end in the early years of ,queen ,victoria's reign1 and its immediate object was the collecting of money with which to send the head boy of the year to the ,university4 ,it seems1 however1 to have originated in a piece of folk-lore1 probably connected with the old tree worship1 but sanctioned by the early ,christian authorities as a semi-religious function4 ,in this connection it is pleasant to think that flowers seen in the hats on the ,fourth of ,june are a survival of the green branches and garlands that were once brought back each year from the ,montem expedition4 ,when dealing with children's dress we ought not to forget the special costumes that have been adopted in some private girls' schools1 nor how much is being done in them towards disseminating ideas on the subject of dress reform4 ,for1 after all1 it is to the women of the future that we must look if any alteration is to be generally made4 ,the introduction of exercises in the gymnasium has necessitated the adoption of a drilling dress in very many cases1 but there are schools where such a costume is generally worn at all times1 and others where it forms the working dress1 while long skirts are only put on when no active exertion is expected4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abf4--;,dress worn by the girls at ,coombe ,hill ,school1 ,westerham4 ,it is a modification of the ,dervish ,djibah4 ,at ,coombe ,hill ,school1 ,westerham1 in ,kent1 the dress takes the form of a tunic with wide sleeves which come to the elbow 7see ,figure #abf74 ,it is put over the head and has no fastenings4 ,it is modelled upon the ,djibah of the ,dervishes1 and is made of soft woollen material of a fawn colour4 ,the yoke is of green embroidery and the underslip is tussore4 ,under the tunic a blouse of white silk is worn1 and the sleeves1 of course1 show from the elbow downwards4 ,the rest of the costume consists of cloth knickerbockers and stockings1 with sandals or shoes that are made to the shape of the foot4 ,this dress is worn on all occasions at school1 and the girls are very proud of it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abg4--;,dress worn by the girls at the ,croft ,school1 ,betley1 when at work4 ,at the ,croft ,school1 ,betley1 in school and when any basket-making1 book-binding1 drilling1 or ,morris-dancing is going on1 a special costume is brought into use4 ,in this case it consists of a tunic without sleeves1 of red material with a velvet yoke1 and shoulder straps 7see ,figure #abg74 ,as a finishing touch there is a girdle tied loosely in a bow4 ,it is not placed round the waist proper1 but drops towards the left knee as did the sword-belts which the knights in olden times wore over their armour4 ,a white silk blouse shows above the yoke round the neck and has full sleeves4 ,the knickerbockers in this case are made of red knitted stockinette instead of cloth4 ,the whole costume has been carefully worked out1 and ,miss ,hodgson1 one of the principals of the school1 has an interesting doll which is dressed exactly like the girls4 ,it should be said that all the girls wear this dress whether they are nine or nineteen years old1 and as it is much appreciated by them there is no doubt but that when they come to have girls of their own they will support any movement in favour of the more general adoption of a sensible costume4 ,,xviii ,,wedding ,,garments ,,the ,,veil--,,bridesmaids ,,and ,,bribery--,,old ,,shoes--,,orange ,,blossom ,weddings are ceremonies in connection with which we may look for some points of interest1 as customs in connection with them change but slowly4 ,in this country1 if convention be followed1 the bride's dress is of white4 ,the veil that is worn recalls the primitive head-dress that was bound by a fillet1 and1 like that of the nun1 may well be derived from the wimple1 though it is said to represent the canopy which in many countries1 and by the ,jews in our own1 is held over1 or erected above1 the bride and bridegroom4 ,flowers take a part in the adornment of the bride1 and the special use of orange blossom will be dealt with when discussing wedding crowns4 ,it is customary for the bridesmaids to be dressed alike1 and they often wear some ornament which has been presented to them by the bridegroom4 ,it may be that this is a survival like many other wedding customs of the old marriage by capture1 for in some countries the girl friends of the bride will not allow her to be approached by the bridegroom until he has given them presents1 or in reality bribed them4 ,now1 like tipping1 it is merely a custom that must be followed1 but originally no doubt the bridegroom and his accomplice1 the best man1 might have found that what they could not do by force they might encompass by bribery4 ,the expression to tie the nuptial knot takes its origin from the fact that1 among the ,babylonians1 the priest who conducted the wedding used to take a thread from the garment of the bride and another from that of the bridegroom4 ,these he tied together into a knot and presented to the bride as a symbol of the binding nature of the union between her and her husband4 ,there is an article of dress which often plays a part at weddings1 for old shoes are usually thrown after the newly-married pair1 while boots1 with a hole in them1 filled with rice1 are hung from the backs of carriages1 and satin slippers have on occasion been fastened to the carriage door handle of the railway train which speeds the pair on their honeymoon4 ,we all know that the throwing of old slippers is intended to bring luck to the bride and bridegroom1 but it is not apparent what particular form it is intended that the blessing should take1 and the origin of the custom is difficult to determine4 ,mr4 ,james ,e4 ,crombie1#bd after carefully considering the various superstitions connected with weddings and shoes1 has come to the conclusion that the intention is to ensure that the young couple shall be blessed with children1 and that old shoes are thrown because of the idea that the essence or life of the individual that wore them remains in them1 and makes them powerful talismans4 ,in this connection it may be well to consider the importance which shoes have assumed at various times in connection with weddings and otherwise4 ,so long ago as the year #abia1 a law in ,hamburg ordered that the bridegroom should give his bride a pair of shoes1 and it is still a custom in ,transylvania for the bridegroom to make a similar present on his wedding morning4 ,in ,greece the best man puts a new pair of boots1 supplied by the bridegroom1 on to the feet of the bride when she leaves her father's house4 ,in ,bulgaria1 a money present which the bridegroom makes to the relatives of the bride is called shoe money1 and with it the father of the family buys shoes for it4 ,this money is said to be a relic of the price that was paid to the clan from which a wife was taken4 ,shoes have figured as part of wages1 and they were thrown over the heads of the ,o',neils by the ,o',cahans when the former were chosen chiefs4 ,this was done to symbolize the superiority of the throwers4 ,in ,russia1 the wives as part of the wedding festivities remove their husband's boots in order to show their subjection to him1 though while the bride dutifully takes off her lord and master's boots as a sign of subserviency1 she always hits him on the head with one of them to show that she is not one whit inferior to him4 ,it is said that the ,hebrew word for shoe and wife are identical1 and a ,bedouin form of divorce is ,she is my slipper1 ,i have cast her off4 ,the casting of a shoe over land1 as mentioned in the ,bible1 was symbolical of conquering it4 ,as regards fruitfulness1 the ,eskimo women carry a piece of an old shoe which has once been worn by ,european sailors1 to make them prolific mothers4 ,women who are blessed with families in ,china present shoes to the ,mother goddess1 and those who wish for children borrow these shoes and vow that if the desired result is effected they will present another one to the divinity when the borrowed shoe is returned4 ,mr4 ,crombie gives a number of instances to show that there is still a belief that the soul of persons may live in their shoes4 ,in the ,museum of ,northern ,antiquities at ,copenhagen is a mummified corpse of a woman who was intentionally drowned in a bog1 and from her body1 after the murder1 a shoe had been removed4 ,during the ,arran murder case at ,edinburgh1 in #ahhi1 it transpired that the boots of the murdered man had been removed by the local constable1 who had buried them on the seashore between high and low water marks4 ,no explanation was forthcoming1 though the man admitted that it was by the orders of his senior officer that he put them out of sight4 ,there is no doubt but that the idea underlying the action was that of preventing the ghost of the murdered man from walking4 ,it must not be forgotten that shoes used to be thrown after anybody when he or she was starting on a journey1 which in old days was a risky business1 and ,ben ,jonson wrote1 ,would ,i had ,kemp's shoes to throw after you4 ,this has been interpreted as meaning that ,kemp was a lucky individual1 and that something of him and his good fortune remained in his shoes4 ,summing up his remarks1 ,mr4 ,crombie says with regard to throwing shoes at weddings that by doing so we should be doing for the young couple1 in a more pleasant way1 exactly the same as the relatives of the ,galla bride did for her when they anointed her from top to toe with bullock's blood4 ,we should be doing for them with shoes what our ,aryan ancestors did for their cattle with the sacred parna rod1 and what the herdsmen of ,sweden and ,the ,mark do to this day1 when on the #ast of ,may they watch on which branch of the mountain ash the sun first strikes1 and then1 cutting it down1 beat the yearling heifers with it on the loins and haunches1 repeating at each stroke a verse in which they pray that as sap comes into the birch so may milk fill the cow's udder4 ,we should be doing with shoes what the ,romans did in ancient ,rome at the festival of the ,lupercalia1 when the boys1 armed with strips of the skin of the slaughtered goats1 used to rush through the city striking all they met1 and where women1 particularly those who desired to be made fruitful1 placed themselves naked in the way1 and received the blows of the ,luperci on their palms4 ,at a wedding sometimes the priest's vestments play a part4 ,it is customary in some continental countries for the priest to wrap the hands of the bride and bridegroom in his stole1 and even in some of our ,english churches the contracting parties are instructed to take hold of the stole by the officiating clergyman4 ,we might mention that in many countries the bridal dresses are very beautiful1 and are often survivals of very old-fashioned costumes4 ,the ,norwegian bridal dress is an instance of this4 ,the wearing of a bridal crown is also a custom in ,scandinavia1 where it is said that every parish possesses its special crown which is the property of the church1 but the use of it is only sanctioned when the bride bears an irreproachable character4 ,the wearing of orange blossom has apparently the same meaning1 and it may be mentioned that on funeral monuments or brasses the wearing of a garland by the effigy of a girl means that she died a virgin4 ,,xix ,,mourning ,,colours ,,associated ,,with ,,mourning--,,widows' ,,weeds--,,perennial ,,mourning ,the ceremonies connected with death and burial are no exception to the rule which we have laid down1 that on solemn and important occasions primitive customs and costumes are most commonly to be met with4 ,the making of clothes from bark has come to have a special significance in the case of races which no longer adopt this in everyday life4 ,the ,kayans of ,borneo now ordinarily wear smart foreign stuffs which they get from traders2 but when they go into mourning they discard these garments1 and return once more to the old native garment of bark cloth4 ,the putting on of sackcloth is no doubt a similar custom1 and dishevelling of locks is also in keeping with it4 ,among the many curious customs connected with funeral rites which survive in civilized countries1 the adoption of some kind of mourning dress is very general4 ,sombre black has come to be associated in our minds with mourning1 but other colours are used among other nations1 and even in this country4 ,the drapery with which the hats of the hired mourners at a child's funeral are veiled are white instead of black4 ,white ostrich feathers may appear on the horses' heads1 and white adorns their trappings4 ,royalty is still privileged to have a special mourning colour--purple is used at state funerals1 and grey is looked upon as half-mourning4 ,in ,china white is the colour used instead of black1 and other ,oriental nations wear yellow4 ,in modern ,egypt1 at a funeral1 the women1 whether relatives or servants of the deceased1 are distinguished by a strip of linen or muslin bound round the head and tied in a single knot behind4 ,this stuff is usually of a blue colour4 ,the women of ancient ,egypt1 as shown on the walls of tombs1 wore a similar bandage round their head4 ,excessive mourning is now becoming a thing of the past1 and there is no need now for such laws as were made at the end of the fifteenth century to restrict extravagance in mourning attire4 ,nowadays men may follow the custom observed by those in the army and those who wear ,highland dress of putting a black band round their arm4 ,at the most they wear black clothes and put a wider band round their hats4 ,among women it is only widows who wear a special costume4 ,it is not a becoming one1 though sometimes a smartness is imparted to it that is a little out of keeping with the idea of mourning4 ,now a widow's dress is called weeds1 though this term at one time signified the whole of any woman's costume4 ,for the origin of the widow's veil we must go back to medival times1 when the dress of widow ladies was similar to that of the convent4 ,it was the custom of elderly ladies whose husbands had died to become what is called vowesses1 and to go into seclusion4 ,a relic perhaps of the practice is to be found in the kind of prejudice which still exists in the minds of some people against second marriages4 ,the white cuffs of the widow recall those of the nurse1 and similar ones are used by some members of the legal profession as part of their mourning4 ,when dealing with military costume we shall find that signs of mourning1 when once adopted1 have in some cases never been wholly abandoned4 ,there are similar vestiges like those found in the dress of public schools1 and there has been a suggestion of the same thing happening in the ,navy4 ,in connection with the hired mourners or mutes at funerals1 now so solemnly habited in black1 it may be interesting to recall that the old ,roman mimes1 of whom we have seen that ,punch was originally one1 were employed at funerals to imitate the language and manners of the deceased4 ,,xx ,,costume ,,connected ,,with ,,the ,,christian ,,religion ,,the ,,surplice ,,and ,,the ,,cloth--,,the ,,civil ,,origin ,,of ,,vestments--,,special ,,vestments--,,processional ,,vestments1 ,,so ,,called--,,nuns' ,,dress--,,the ,,choker ,the dress worn by clergy when conducting religious ceremonies offers many opportunities for studying the development of garments1 and illustrates at the same time how the dress used by a special class may evolve more slowly and on different lines from the same clothes that may be worn by the people at large4 ,the case is similar to that of animals or plants which are isolated from the other members of their species1 and in course of time come to differ very markedly from their far-away relatives who flourish in the old home4 ,we shall see that many of the ecclesiastical vestments can be traced to civil dress2 but for the moment we may discuss those which are in use at the present time1 and which afford additional evidence in support of our statement that the more important the ceremonial1 the more ancient the costume4 ,at the present day we find that the clergy of the ,church of ,england preach either in a white surplice or in a black gown4 ,we can trace the black gown to an order made by ,james ,i1 but at the present day the vestments worn by the clergy of the ,presbyterian ,churches are rather professional1 or academical like a barrister's gown1 than properly ecclesiastical4 ,we have already mentioned the bands 7see p4 #dd7 which are worn with the black gown1 and here we might mention that when the preacher ministers to a recognized congregation he wears them1 though if he is ordained but is conducting an occasional service he does not4 ,charles ,i gave instructions that the surplice should be worn1 and had an ,act passed giving him power to regulate clerical costume4 ,but the clergy sent in a petition that matters should be left as they were1 and this request seems to have been granted1 as some of the ministers at the time expressed the fear that ,his ,majesty would order them to wear hoods and bells4 ,mr4 ,macalister#be says that the surplice was originally invented to take the place of the albe1 which was made so small that it was difficult to put it over the cassock when the latter garment was thick and lined with fur4 ,originally the surplice was put on over the head1 in the same way as the albe1 the place of which it took1 but some two hundred years ago the surplice was made open in front and fastened at the neck with a button4 ,the reason for this is that in this way the surplice could be put on without disarranging the enormous wigs which were worn during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries4 ,the cassock1 to which we have already alluded1 was a long1 loose coat or gown1 which was worn by both sexes from the eleventh century onwards4 ,the name was applied to the coat adopted by foot soldiers in the time of ,elizabeth4 ,in the case of the laity1 it was abandoned in favour of the shorter and more convenient coat4 ,the black coat of the modern clergy1 whom we term the cloth1 no doubt represents it1 while it is of course worn ordinarily by many ,roman ,catholic clergy1 and some ,high ,churchmen1 as an everyday garment1 for which it was originally intended4 ,the row of buttons which now fasten the long cassocks from neck to the foot have been humorously compared by ,lord ,grimthorpe to the close row of rivets on a boiler4 ,with regard to the development of the more ornamental dress of the clergy there is a great deal to be said4 ,in the past1 two separate origins for it have been suggested1 and to pursue either of these would be to take us far back into history4 ,it has been claimed1 in the first place1 that modern church vestments have been derived from those of the ,levitical priesthood4 ,the other idea is that the ceremonial dress of the clergy was derived from the civil costume of the ,romans4 ,it appears1 however1 that careful researches have shown that the decorations which have given ecclesiastical vestments their highly ornamented character--in which they resemble certainly those used by the ,jews in ,temple worship--have been gradually acquired4 ,the dress of the ancient ,christians was simple1 and it seems likely that owing to the poverty of the early ,church rich clothing could hardly have been adopted4 ,besides1 for many centuries there is no mention of such vestments as we are considering1 and no records as to their having been derived from ,jewish models4 ,on the other hand1 everything points to a more natural origin of the raiment concerned4 ,flowing garments1 as we have already seen1 give dignity1 and we find that among the ,romans such were used in dignified leisure or on occasions of state1 in contradistinction to the dress of active existence1 which consisted of a short tunic or chiton4 ,it is with the first kind of dress that we have to deal4 ,it consisted of a tunic either short or long1 over which was worn the toga which was capable of the same variety of arrangement as the plaid which still survives4 ,even when the toga was given up by the people generally1 on the founding of the ,roman ,empire1 it continued to be used in certain cases4 ,it was etiquette to wear a toga when dining with the ,emperor or going to court2 advocates wore it1 as did clients when they visited their patrons1 and it was also adopted at funerals and when sacrifices were being made4 ,on the face of it1 it would appear likely that those who ministered to the early ,christian ,church would follow the general custom4 ,nothing1 perhaps1 affords better evidence of this having taken place than an illustration which is considered authentic of ,st4 ,gregory the ,great with his father and mother4 ,as ,mr4 ,marriott#bf points out1 if it were not for the ,papal pallium--that is to say1 the band round his shoulders--on which crosses are embroidered1 and the book of the ,gospels which he holds in his hand1 it would be hard to distinguish which was the bishop and which the senator4 7,see ,figure #abh47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abh4--,st4 ,gregory the ,great with his father ,gordianus1 who was a senator1 on his right1 and his mother ,sylvia on his left4 ,this shows the similarity between ecclesiastical and civil costume in early times4 ,from an authentic picture 7after ,marriott74 ,from this dress it is claimed1 by those who have carefully gone into the question1 that ecclesiastical vestments have been developed4 ,in connection with this1 ,mr4 ,macalister#bg makes the following remarks3 ,fashion in dress or ornaments is subject to constant changes1 which1 though perhaps individually trifling1 in time amount to complete revolutions2 but the devotees of any religion1 true or false1 are by nature conservative of its doctrines or observances4 ,at first the early ,christians wore the same costume both at worship and at home4 ,fashion1 ,mr4 ,macalister continues1 would slowly change unchecked from year to year1 while ecclesiastical conservatism would retard such changes as far as they concern the dress worn at divine service2 small differences would spring into existence between everyday dress and the dress of the worshipper4 ,these differences1 at first hardly perceptible1 would increase as the process went on1 until the two styles of costume became sharply distinguished from one another4 ,in this connection it will be interesting to mention those vestments which antiquarians have traced to ,roman costume4 ,the albe takes its name from the tunica alba1 which was used as a purely secular garment until the ninth century4 ,it was worn by all the ministers and deacons1 but as the latter had no vestment above the albe1 it came to be the special characteristic of the deacons4 ,usually1 as the name implies1 the albe was white1 but in this country coloured albes were sometimes used4 ,we have already seen that the surplice was derived from the albe1 and ,mr4 ,marriott has brought forward all the evidence that he can to show that white was the colour of the vestments at the earliest times in the history of the ,church4 ,his arguments1 however1 do not seem to be conclusive1 and his inferences do not commend themselves to ,mr4 ,macalister4 ,the latter thinks1 however1 that the view that white was the colour appropriated in primitive times to the dress of the ,christian ministry is preferable to the theory that the early vestments were of the same elaborate description as their medival successors4 ,he is of opinion1 nevertheless1 that the passages upon which ,mr4 ,marriott bases his arguments are quite consistent with a third alternative1 namely1 that no distinctive vestments were set apart for the exclusive use of the ,christian minister during the first four centuries of the ,christian era4 ,the dalmatic was a wide gown or tunic with long full sleeves1 which was derived apparently from the albe and used by persons in high secular positions before it was adopted by the ,church4 ,in the medival period the dalmatic was slit for a short distance up either side and fringes were added to decorate the slits1 the hems1 and the ends of the sleeves4 ,in this style the garment was worn by a bishop4 ,there were1 however1 only fringes on the left sleeves and along the left side in the form of this vestment which was appropriated to a deacon4 ,most elaborate explanations were offered by medival writers for this difference1 which seems merely to be a matter of convenience for the deacon1 who served at the altar4 ,it was important that he should have his right side free1 and the heavy fringes would have got into his way4 ,one of the ideas with regard to the fringe was that the absence from the right side symbolizes our freedom from care in the world to come2 but why1 ,mr4 ,macalister asks1 was not the bishop to be exempt from care in the future world8 ,in connection with the coronation of ,english sovereigns the dalmatic is still used1 as well as representatives of other ecclesiastical vestments1 but to these we shall refer again4 ,it is not at all unlikely that the stole which a clergyman wears after the fashion of an untied tie1 and which hangs from his neck nearly to the ground1 is really the same thing as our handkerchief1 and it is certain that it was employed originally as a scarf or orarium4 ,in many ,roman monuments which are not of an ecclesiastical character1 scarves are worn over the rest of the dress4 ,they pass over the left shoulder1 diagonally1 towards the right side1 and are fastened under the right arm4 ,they are not to be confounded with the two bands of purple 7or clavi7 which on the tunics of senators and other important men ran round the sides of the neck openings and down to the lower hem4 ,it is probable that the scarves were used in the same way as favours and colours among ourselves4 ,it is recorded that ,aurelian was the first emperor who distributed oraria as presents to the people to be worn as favours4 ,in this connection we must not forget the ribbons of the ,knightly ,orders1 which we have already mentioned when speaking of the baldric4 ,the ,fourth ,council of ,toledo enacted that deacons should wear their stoles over their left shoulder so that their right arm might be free to facilitate the execution of their duties in divine service4 ,an ,english church vestment actually goes by the name of the scarf1 and is a broad black band of silk worn in the same way as the stole4 ,it is probably a modification of some article of university costume1 possibly the tippet 7see p4 #bab71 and is worn by ,doctors of ,divinity and the clerical authorities of ,collegiate and ,cathedral bodies4 ,the outdoor garment which replaced the toga took several forms4 ,one of these had already been in use for some time as part of the dress of the lower classes and of slaves4 ,speaking briefly1 it rose in the world1 and emperors even wore it when they were travelling4 ,one form1 called the casula1 is of interest to us because it is the forerunner of the chasuble4 ,so much attention has been drawn to ecclesiastical vestments of recent years1 owing to the adoption by ,english ,high ,church clergy of those in which ,roman ,catholic priests celebrate ,mass1 that it may be perhaps of interest1 even at the risk of recapitulation1 to consider them4 ,it should be said at the outset that the stripes of embroidery1 which are often very elaborate and enriched with jewels1 which appear on vestments such as the amice and albe1 are called apparels4 ,to garments which are white and have at times to be washed1 these ornaments are sewn or otherwise attached1 so that they can be removed when it is necessary and replaced4 ,the amice we have not yet mentioned1 as it is of medival origin and did not come into our consideration of the evolution of modern vestments from ,roman dress4 ,it was a rectangular piece of linen1 about thirty-six inches by twenty-five inches1 with an apparel sewn along one edge and a cross embroidered in the centre4 ,this the priest at the present time wears round his neck4 ,the outer garment or chasuble1 which is richly ornamented1 we have traced to the garment which replaced the ,roman toga1 and as it is without sleeves and has become heavier1 it has been found necessary to slit up the sides4 ,under this the stole is worn over the albe1 and only its ends appear beneath the chasuble4 7,see ,figure #abi47 ,there is ornamentation on the sleeves of the albe1 where they show1 and on the back and front of it where it shows below the chasuble4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abi4--;,a priest in the vestments now worn at the celebration of the ,eucharist4 ,the apparels1 according to ,druitt1 are possibly the remains of the purple bands and other ornamentations of the ,roman tunic1 from which we have seen that the albe was derived4 ,over the left arm the priest carries a maniple which is something like a stole4 ,this was originally made of linen1 and worn over the fingers of the left hand4 ,there is no doubt but that it was once a napkin and1 according to ,mr4 ,g4 ,c4 ,coulton1#bh originally used in the fashion of a modern pocket-handkerchief4 ,that it was a napkin is shown by quotations from ancient writers1 and there seems no doubt also that many refinements of ,roman civilization1 of which the pocket handkerchief was one1 were lost in the later ,middle ,ages4 ,in fact1 the handkerchief only began to come into general use in polite society about ,henry ,,viii's reign1 and the maniple of the ministrant at the altar must have lost its original use1 or ,bernard would not have twice warned him against blowing his nose on his chasuble or surplice4 ,when speaking of the handkerchief1 there is another use which we may mention4 ,it was often employed for ceremonial purposes in connection with the giving of presents1 and this idea seems to have come from ,eastern lands1 where gifts are wrapped in highly ornamental covers4 ,in the parable of the talents1 one of them1 it will be remembered1 was wrapped in a napkin1 and even to-day the labourer has his dinner taken to him in a brightly coloured cotton handkerchief4 ,among the special vestments of bishops are the dalmatic1 which we have already described1 and the tunicle1 which originally did not differ from it1 and began to be worn beneath it about the twelfth century4 ,others are the buskins or stockings 7which were originally reserved for the pope71 sandals1 ring1 gloves1 and mitre1 together with a pastoral staff adapted from the shepherd's crook4 ,archbishops have a cross staff and a pallium or pall which is probably derived from the same ancestor as the stole1 namely the orarium1 which1 we have seen1 was a favour or distinction granted by the ,roman ,emperor4 ,the word pallium has been applied to a number of garments in the past1 many of which were of a flowing character1 and some writers have seen in the archbishop's pall a small vestige of what was once an ample vestment4 ,early pictures1 however1 show the pall looped round the shoulders with one end hanging in front of the body and one behind4 ,mr4 ,macalister says that it was difficult sometimes to distinguish between it and the stole1 and that the next step in its evolution was to knot the free ends to the loops as shown in the eighth1 ninth1 and tenth centuries4 ,from this it was but an easy step to the final form which consists of an oval loop with a long tail pendent from each of its ends1 so that when it is worn on the person it makes a capital ,y on the back and another on the chest4 ,it should be pointed out that the pall must not be confounded with the apparel of the chasuble called the orphrey1 which also has a ,y shape4 ,in connection with the manufacture of the pall there are some interesting proceedings4 ,it is made from the wool of two lambs1 and they are solemnly blessed on ,saint ,agnes's day in the church dedicated in the name of that saint at ,rome4 ,the animals are chosen with special reference to their whiteness and goodness1 and are carried into ,rome in separate baskets1 which are slung over a horse's back4 ,on the way to the church the ,pope makes the sign of the cross from a window over the lambs1 and they1 after ,mass has been celebrated and they have been blessed by the celebrant1 go back to the ,pope1 who sends them to a nunnery1 where they are shorn and the wool made into palls by the nuns4 ,the modern pall has six black crosses on it1 but previous to the eighth century it had sometimes four1 sometimes eight1 worked in purple4 ,at first the pall was fastened by gold pins to the chasuble to keep it in place1 but just as ladies now use little lead weights to keep parts of their dress in position1 so lead was used to hold the archbishop's pall in place4 ,the effigy of ,albrect von ,brandenburg in #aeee1 at ,mayence1 shows two palls1 which probably indicate that he was ,archbishop of ,magdeburg as well as of ,mayence4 ,this repetition can hardly be strictly correct1 as the pall could only be worn within the ,archbishop's province4 ,archbishops in olden days appeared to have had no authority to act until they received their pall from the ,pope4 ,the honour was1 however1 bestowed occasionally on bishops4 ,the pall is generally shown on the coats of arms of archbishops4 7,see ,figure #acj47 ,the cope is one of the so-called processional vestments4 ,it does not appear before the ninth century1 and is apparently connected with ,roman dress4 ,it was an outer cloak without sleeves1 and originally was used as a protection from the weather at open-air processions in ,rome1 its ancestor probably being the lacerna4 ,in a similar way the almuce was a hood to protect the head1 and such articles1 as ,mr4 ,macalister says1 the clergy would continue to adopt in their cold and draughty churches or in open-air processions4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acj4--,the coat of arms of ,thomas ,becket4 ,showing an archbishop's pall4 ,of monastic habits the earliest was the ,benedictine1 consisting of a cassock over which was worn the cowl--a large1 loose gown1 with hanging sleeves and a hood attached to it4 ,in the old times the costume of abbesses and nuns resembled the mourning habit of widows1 who often retired to end their days in a convent4 ,when the ,english ,church was reformed1 the ,mass vestments practically disappeared4 ,the first ,prayer ,book of ,edward ,,vi prescribed for the ,holy ,communion a white albe1 without any apparels1 with a vestment or cope1 while the assistant priest or deacons were to wear albes with tunicles4 ,the cope was also to be worn with a plain albe or surplice on ,wednesdays and ,fridays when there was no communion4 ,the bishop was to wear a rochet1 a surplice or albe1 and a cope or vestment4 ,the second ,prayer ,book prohibited the use of the albe1 vestment1 or cope to the minister1 allowing him only a surplice1 while the archbishop or bishop was allowed a rochet4 ,the ,act of ,uniformity upheld the ornaments rubric of the first ,prayer ,book of ,edward ,,vi1 and this has never been superseded4 ,the lawn sleeves of the modern bishop developed from the rochet1 which was a kind of modified albe1 which at first had a kind of tight-fitting sleeves or none at all4 ,over this rochet is worn a black satin chimere1 and as it was difficult to get this over the bishop's sleeves1 they were removed from the rochet and are now fastened to the chimere4 ,the black scarf we have already considered4 ,it is customary at the present day for clergy of the ,english ,church to wear the academical hood of their university degree over their surplices4 ,this is ordained by the fifty-eighth canon1 but ministers who are not graduates are permitted to wear1 instead of hoods1 some decent tippet of black1 be it not silk4 ,it appears that in the time of ,elizabeth1 in everyday dress1 ministers wore a gown and some of them a silk hood4 ,the tippet is a survival of the almuce1 which we mentioned in connection with the cope1 and is one of the so-called processional dresses4 ,it must therefore not be confounded with the amice1 which is a truly ecclesiastical vestment4 ,as bearing on the conservatism of the ,church in matters of dress1 we may mention that in ,holland1 until recent times1 the clergy wore a very old-fashioned dress1 or perhaps it may better be described as a picturesque uniform1 consisting of an old three-cornered hat1 and a coat resembling the ordinary evening dress-coat1 having a long pleated strip called the mantle hooked on the neck1 and obviously being a survival from an early and more ample gown of some kind4 ,they wore knee-breeches buckled at the knees1 and buckled shoes1 but this costume was only used when the minister was officiating at service4 ,some of the heads of the churches in ,scotland still adopt a kind of ,court dress4 ,in turning for a moment again to the everyday dress of the clergy1 the method of fastening the characteristic white choker at the back seems to have come from the bands4 ,thackeray in ,the ,newcomes uses the name choker as meaning a white necktie1 and it was also applied to the old leather stocks which the clerical collar1 in its stiffness1 resembles4 ,the bishop's hat we have already alluded to1 as showing the stage in a process of cocking1 the brim being tied to the crown by strings4 ,the clerical gaiters we can derive from the old episcopal buskins1 while the apron appears to be a vestige of the cassock to which we have before referred4 ,the dress of monks usually consists of a tunic or closed gown and scapular1 while there may be one or more open gowns with a hood at the back4 ,nuns or ,sisters of ,mercy are so commonly seen in our streets1 and they do so much for the benefit of the poor1 and take such a part in educational matters1 that their dress is very familiar to us4 ,it is difficult to say how old it may not be1 and though stiff hoods similar to those which are now in use by nuns were adopted by women generally in ,tudor times1 we find in the head-dress of ,henry ,,ii's reign the counterpart of the linen bands which surround the face and hide the hair4 ,the other garments of nuns may have the same origin as ecclesiastical vestments1 for the dress of the ,roman women was very much like that of the men4 7,see ,figures #abh and #aca-acc47 ,there are1 of course1 many orders1 congregations1 and communities of nuns1 but we may describe the dress of one of the latter1 and then make a few additional remarks4 ,in the case of the ,kilburn ,sisters of the ,church1 who are ,english ,catholics--but who have dedicated their lives to religion in the same way as the ,roman ,catholic nuns--the indoor dress consists of a white cap1 the descendant of the ,norman chin-band1 which fits tightly round the head--as the hair of all nuns is1 of course1 cut close--and it is gathered round the face with a string4 ,this cap1 if it comes down low on the forehead1 correspondingly covers the chin1 but in many cases the latter is free4 ,over the white cap in indoor dress a black veil is worn in the case of professed nuns1 a blue veil by novices1 while postulants1 who may be taken as corresponding to probationers in a hospital1 wear only a cap1 though in chapel they have a white veil as well4 ,round the neck of the ,sister is a white collar1 which in this case is separate from the cap and buttons on to it at one side4 ,this collar1 which like the veil may be traced to the wimple of ,norman and later ladies1 is also called a breast cloth or a gremial1 and may be1 as we have indicated1 made in one piece with the cap4 ,in outdoor dress a stiff white hood is placed over the indoor head-dress1 and over that again comes the outdoor black veil4 ,it should be mentioned that the ,kilburn ,sisters now pin their veils to the sides of their linen caps in exactly the same way that the dame in the time of the early ,plantagenets did her wimple to the sides of her chin-band4 ,for working ,sisters1 the rest of the costume is a habit with skin-tight sleeves1 though there are also most voluminous outer sleeves which are detachable and can be removed4 ,a small cape is buttoned across the chest1 and the number of buttons corresponds with the letters in the word ,obedience4 ,an apron is also worn and a thick girdle1 to one of the hanging ends of which a cross is attached4 ,other ,sisters wear a scapular with shoulder-straps1 over a white cape4 ,nuns are not allowed to wear gloves1 and some orders use sandals1 though absolutely barefooted orders exist4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aca4--,the head-dress of a nun showing the veil and breast-cloth derived from the wimple1 the cap which represents the chin-cloth1 together with the frontal and the hood4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acb4--,the head-dress of a lady of the time of ,henry ,,ii4 ,the wimple is shown covering the chin- and head-bands 7after ,calthrop74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acc4--,the chin-band and forehead strap after the wimple has been removed 7after ,calthrop74 ,the lay sisters of the community under consideration wear a blue habit and a white cap with flaps4 ,some orders1 in addition to the white cap1 wear a plain band round the forehead over it1 which is called a frontal1 and is seen in the dress of ,henry ,,ii's time4 7,see ,figures #aca and #acc47 ,professed sisters wear a wedding ring on the third finger of their right hand4 ,the white outdoor stiffened hoods often stand right up from the head in a very striking way1 and sometimes no veils are worn4 ,some of the caps1 which are made in one piece with the collar1 are fastened under the chin by two strings1 and the goffered edges of the collar recall the bands of the ,stuart period4 ,,xxi ,,sunday ,,clothes ,,the ,,significance ,,of ,,sunday ,,clothes--,,the ,,wearing ,,of ,,hats ,,in ,,church ,,by ,,ladies ,sunday clothes are a time-honoured institution1 though it is a sign of the times that many now make no difference between their weekday costume and that which they wear on the day of rest1 or if they do1 they only put on garments which are appropriate to the relaxations in which they are accustomed to indulge4 ,st4 ,jerome and ,st4 ,clement both exhorted the early ,christian worshippers to wear a special dress for worship1 and the ,jews in their synagogues put on a vestment called a talith1 which is used by the whole of the congregation as well as by the officiating minister4 ,we quote the following passage from ,st4 ,clement#bi because it deals with the question of women having their heads covered while at church3 ,the wife and the husband should take their way unto the church1 in seemly apparel1 with unaffected gait1 and speech refrained2 having love unfeigned2 pure in body and pure in heart2 fitly decked for prayer to ,god4 ,and this further let the woman have3 let her wholly cover her head 7unless perchance she be at home71 for so dressed she will have respect and be withdrawn from gazing eyes4 ,and if thus with modesty1 and with a veil1 she covereth her own eyes1 she shall neither be misled herself1 nor shall she draw others1 by the exposure of her face1 into the dangerous path of sin4 ,for this willeth the ,word2 seeing that it is meet for the woman that she pray with covered head4444 ,but then so as they1 who are joined to ,christ1 adorn themselves1 in a more solemn fashion1 for assemblies of the church1 even such should they ever be1 even so be fashioned1 all the days of their life4 ',to be1 not seem to be1' let that be their watchword2 gentle1 reverent1 full of holy love1 at one time not less than at another4 ,but it is not so1 indeed4 ,somehow doth it come about1 that1 with change of place1 they change both their habit and their manners2 even as the polypus is said to change each one his colour to the semblance of the rock whereby he dwells4 ,it will be remembered that not long ago objection was taken by a minister to women appearing in his church without any hats4 ,it would appear that the whole custom is a relic of that still observed in eastern countries1 where women cover not only their heads1 but also their faces1 though1 as pointed out in an earlier chapter 7see page #ac71 in some places it is still considered more immodest to uncover the back of the head than to expose any other part of the person2 and in ,egypt1 for instance1 an ,arab woman disturbed when drawing water will throw her single garment over her head in order to hide it4 ,one is rather afraid that those ladies who follow the lines laid down by ,st4 ,clement as to covering their heads in church sometimes obey his injunctions in the letter rather than in the spirit4 ,for scoffers have been found who say that one of the reasons why fashionable ladies go to church is to show their own new hats and gowns and to look at those belonging to their neighbours4 ,the question of covering the head was touched upon when dealing with servants' dress in connection with the cap of the housemaid4 7,see page #adi47 ,the greatest contrast between ,sunday and weekday clothes is to be looked for in the country among agricultural labourers1 as the cessation of labour gives an opportunity for discarding the rough and heavy garments of the field in favour of something lighter and of better quality1 and this quite apart from the religious idea which no doubt first led to the practice4 ,probably the custom of putting on ,sunday clothes in the country will survive until the rural exodus1 which has unfortunately begun1 has led to the complete depopulation of our villages4 ,,xxii ,,academical ,,dress ,,gowns ,,and ,,hanging ,,sleeves--,,the ,,forerunner ,,of ,,the ,,hood--,,the ,,origin ,,of ,,the ,,doctor',s ,,hat--,,the ,,evolution ,,of ,,the ,,mortar-,,board ,many complaints have been very justly made against the solemnity1 if not the ugliness1 of men's modern evening dress4 ,on important occasions it may be more or less enlivened by the ribbons and stars of various orders1 but we really get a return to something of medival brightness at those functions connected with the universities at which academical dress is worn4 ,then the black coats and trousers are practically hidden1 in many cases by scarlet1 by purple1 and other coloured gowns4 ,occasionally there are combinations of colours which are trying to the eyes of many1 but on the whole the effect is one that is pleasing and worthy of repetition4 ,academical dress is in itself a survival1 and the gay colours are almost enough to tell us this4 ,records exist which show that in the fifteenth century they were already adopted by the graduates of our universities4 ,the evidence which has been brought forward as to the origin of academic costume points to its having been derived from that of the clergy2 but there are interesting connections with civil dress1 as we shall see4 ,one of the special features of many academic gowns is their long hanging sleeves1 and we shall find that so long ago as the time of ,william ,rufus sleeves had grown so long that it had become convenient to make a hole through them through which the hand and forearm could be protruded4 7,see ,figure #acd47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acd4--;,hanging sleeve of the fifteenth century4 ,these sleeves took upon themselves all sorts of forms1 and they were made so long and narrow that they resembled very much the elongation of the hood which was called a liripipe4 ,occasionally it was found necessary to knot them so that they should not trail upon the ground4 ,very few parts of dress have varied so much as sleeves1 and it is said that any costume can be dated by an examination of the sleeves4 ,nowadays1 as in the past1 the length of the sleeve and of the gown itself indicates the status of the member of the university4 ,at ,oxford1 for instance1 the undergraduate's gown is so short that it is hardly worthy of the name1 and it is without sleeves that act as such4 ,the scholar's gown is more voluminous1 and the gowns of the bachelors and masters of arts are more important again1 while the sleeves belonging to the latter reach nearly to the ground4 ,when we come1 however1 to the robes of the ,chancellor1 which are made of stiffer material1 we find that the ancient character of the hanging sleeves is much more marked 7see ,figure #ace71 and there is a train so long that small pages are told off to support it4 ,in the old days1 the material of which the gowns were made1 and their trimmings indicated the rank of the wearers2 and1 as ,mr4 ,druitt#cj points out1 the bachelor1 for instance1 was unable to use fur of so costly a kind as that worn by his academical superiors4 ,stuff or silk gowns still have their significance1 and in the hoods which are the survival of a part of dress which was once useful and worn by graduates and undergraduates alike1 we find great diversity in the case of the various degrees of different universities4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ace4--,the hanging sleeve of a ,chancellor of ,oxford ,university4 ,as a head covering1 the cap took the place of a hood1 and the latter fell down behind like that often seen on a modern ulster4 ,we have already noticed 7p4 #aeg7 how this peak of the hood was exaggerated1 and in old times the liripipe was longer in the case of undergraduates4 ,the modern hood of the universities has grown in size1 but it has lost its long streamer4 ,examples are1 of course1 most commonly seen in churches1 as it is a custom of the clergy to wear their academical hoods over their white surplices4 ,the colour of the hood and of its lining indicates1 to the initiated1 the university to which the wearer belongs1 and the degree which he has taken4 ,in early times a tippet or cape made of fur or cloth edged or lined with fur1 according to the degree1 was also worn4 ,to this we have alluded when speaking of the surplice 7see page #aii74 ,it seems also to have originally been a kind of hood which developed first into the almuce1 one of the processional vestments of the priesthood4 ,this was covered by the ecclesiastical cope1 but was worn outside the academical gown4 ,doctors of ,divinity were allowed to wear scarlet tippets1 and the colour survives now in their academical hood1 and the ordinary black almuce with its fur lining has not been greatly changed in becoming the hood of the ,bachelor of ,arts4 ,sometimes the tippet and sometimes the hood was worn 7if we may judge from monumental brasses71 but also they were both put on at the same time4 ,the figure of a doctor embroidered on a fifteenth-century cope belonging to the ,pro-,cathedral of the ,apostles at ,clifton1 depicts him wearing a tippet edged with white1 a red hood1 and a red cap4 ,his gown1 which is worked in gold thread1 is shown with a blue lining4 ,perhaps no form of head-dress is more strange than the college cap or mortar-board1 or1 in technical language1 pileus quadratus1 or cater cap4 ,this skull-cap1 with its curious square top1 is not the only kind of academical head-dress4 ,there is the round cap which is especially that of the doctor1 while the mortar-board or trencher already mentioned is used by masters and bachelors1 as well as by undergraduates and scholars4 ,the former head-dress seems to have been very little altered1 and was developed somewhere about the fourteenth century or earlier from the ecclesiastical skull-cap1 which was something like an old-fashioned man's nightcap1 with a tuft4 ,the square cap is an undoubted descendant of the ecclesiastical cap of dignity1 and in ,england this also came from the skull-cap already mentioned4 ,towards the end of the fifteenth century1 while still used by ecclesiastics1 it began to assume a square or cusped shape4 ,prof4 ,e4 ,c4 ,clark#ca agrees with the opinion expressed to him by the late ,dr4 ,littledale1 that folds were introduced into the soft material in order to make the cap easier to hold1 for by them it was stiffened4 ,the folds became four wings1 and so converted the round top into a square4 ,from this it was but a short step to the ecclesiastical biretta of the present day4 ,any further exaggeration of its top would cause the cap to fall down on the face1 and would naturally suggest the insertion of something to stiffen it and hold it out1 and in the end the square top of the cap was made of cardboard covered with cloth1 and a skull-cap was fixed to it underneath4 7,see ,figure #acf47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acf4--;,a college cap or trencher4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acg4--;,cranmer's hat1 illustrating a stage in the evolution of a mortar-board 7after ,fairholt74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ach4--,the hat of a bishop of the ,stuart ,period showing a stage at which the stiffening now seen in the mortar-board was becoming necessary 7after ,fairholt74 ,there is a likeness between the round hat of the doctor and the ,tudor flat cap1 and ,fairholt would derive the mortar-board from the same head-dress2 and as illustrating the story of its evolution1 he compares the cap shown in the portrait of ,cranmer 7see ,figure #acg7 in the ,british ,museum with that of a bishop of the time of ,charles ,i 7see ,figure #ach72 and here again the need for stiffening is obvious1 if the enlargement of the crown of the cap be carried any further4 ,,xxiii ,,legal ,,dress ,,vestiges ,,of ,,the ,,coif--,,hoods ,,and ,,gowns--,,signs ,,of ,,mourning ,it would be strange if the majesty of the law did not depend to some extent upon dress1 and there is no doubt but that an impressiveness which would otherwise be absent from our courts is given by wigs and gowns4 ,the wigs themselves are an interesting survival1 and presumably are not more uncomfortable to the few who now wear them than they were to many in times gone by4 ,we will describe here a few interesting vestiges among those which are to be met with in legal costume4 ,any one who has an opportunity of looking on to the top of a judge's wig will notice a small circular depression about three inches across4 7,see ,figure #aci47 ,this has a very interesting history1 and in order to trace it we shall have to look at the long wigs of the serjeants-at-law1 from whose ranks in the past most of the judges used to come4 ,on the serjeant's wig we shall find that there is a similar depression1 and that it is filled with a circular white patch1 having a black centre1 and reminding one of two large pieces of court plaster1 one stuck over the other4 7,see ,figure #adj47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aci4--,the wig of a modern judge4 ,the white piece represents the coif1 or close-fitting cap of white lawn or silk which resembles that of a nun1 and with which the serjeants-at-law on their creation were decked4 ,from this cap1 the body to which the serjeants-at-law belonged was called the ,order of the ,coif4 ,it seems that the origin of this head-dress cannot definitely be settled4 ,mr4 ,druitt#cb and ,mr4 ,paley ,baildon are content to consider it as part of the insignia of the serjeants-at-law1 in the same way that the round cap indicates the possessor of a doctor's degree1 and they are not inclined to give credence to the suggestion that the coif was to hide the tonsure or to prevent its absence from being noticed4 ,the black patch represents a black skull-cap that was worn over the coif4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adj4--,the vestige of the coif from the wig of a serjeant-at-law4 ,after having been in existence for many hundreds of years1 the order of serjeants-at-law was abolished by ,mr4 ,gladstone4 ,lord ,lindley1 we believe1 is the last member who survives4 ,a black skull-cap is also worn by a judge1 but it is not to be confounded with the cap of dignity which is used by him when pronouncing sentence1 and which was ordered to be worn in church when on circuit4 ,ordinarily1 the judge does not wear his scarlet gown1 but a black one1 the girdle of which has grown to a very great width4 ,the drab colour of the trimmings1 which does not harmonize well with the rest of the gown1 has recently begun to give way to primrose1 and the change is due to the initiative of the late ,lord ,coleridge4 ,it is said that black gowns which are worn by the ,king's ,counsel and other barristers superseded the coloured ones on the death of ,queen ,mary ,,ii1 and in reality were intended as mourning which has never been discarded4 ,legal gowns have come down with very little change from the ,middle ,ages1 and are doubtless derived from ecclesiastical through academical costume4 ,the original robes of the serjeants-at-law were somewhat striking in colour1 for taking a line down the centre of the black1 one half was of a mustard colour and the other red1 while the latter was further ornamented with green stripes4 ,the robe of the ,barons of the ,exchequer was of a beautiful heliotrope tint4 ,the material of the gown of the ,king's ,counsel is indicated by the phrase taking silk4 ,one peculiarity of the garment is that it has a large collar resembling that of court-ushers and of vergers in churches4 ,the ordinary dress of the ,king's ,counsel which he wears in court is interesting on account of the ornamental cuffs and the escalloped flaps of the pockets of the coat and waistcoat1 which resemble those of ,court dress4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ada4--;,a barrister's gown showing the vestigial hood and its streamer4 ,the buttons and braid which once temporarily looped up the sleeves now fix it permanently4 ,on the barrister's gown there is a tiny hood on the left shoulder resembling that from which the chaperon was developed1 and from the vestige runs a streamer which comes over the left shoulder and hangs down in front of the gown4 7,see ,figure #ada47 ,there is also a series of buttons as well as pieces of braid on the sleeves which are survivals1 and we have not the hanging sleeves of the ,king's ,counsel1 which are comparable to those seen in many academic gowns4 ,small falling bands are of course generally worn by members of the legal profession1 and barristers and ,king's ,counsel when in mourning have a little pleat down the middle of each band4 ,perhaps the most curious additions to legal costume used in order to indicate mourning are the little white lawn or muslin cuffs1 like those of widows1 which the ,king's ,counsel wear on their sleeves when the ,court is in mourning1 or when they themselves have suffered bereavement4 ,,xxiv ,,state ,,and ,,court ,,attire ,,coronation ,,dress--,,parliamentary ,,robes--,,mistakes ,,in ,,court ,,dress--,,vestiges ,,of ,,the ,,wig ,,and ,,of ,,the ,,chaperon--,,court ,,cards ,the ,english sovereigns are heads of the ,church as well as of the ,state1 and in connection with their coronation dress there are1 as might be expected1 many survivals from the past4 ,the vestments used on the occasion in question agree almost entirely with those which we have described as being worn by a bishop at mass4 ,we may except1 however1 the amice and the maniple1 while the sceptre and crown take the place of the crosier and the mitre4 ,the first vestment to be put on is of linen1 and is an albe or rochet1 and up to the time of ,james ,,ii it was provided with sleeves--it is known as the ,colobium sindonis4 ,over this is placed the tunicle or dalmatic4 ,this is made of silk1 and across it is worn the stole in the same way as deacons were ordered to do in the year #efa4 ,the custom is still followed in ,greece and ,rome1 whereas priests generally put on the stole immediately after the albe4 ,over the dalmatic comes the imperial mantle which seems to have been originally a chasuble1 but is now slit up in front4 ,this garment1 which is of cloth of gold1 is embroidered with eagles1 that are interesting as probably representing the claim of the ,king of ,england to be ,emperor of ,britain and ,lord ,paramount over all the ,islands of the ,west4 ,in ,charles ,,ii's reign further ornaments occurred in the shape of roses and fleur-de-lys1 and on ,queen ,victoria's mantle there were roses1 half red and half white1 as well as thistles1 shamrocks1 and fleur-de-lys1 while the eagles were embroidered in silver4 ,at the coronation of ,king ,edward ,,vii the vestments which we have described were all used with the exception of the albe1 and to the other devices on the imperial mantle the lotus flower was added as a symbol for ,india1 as the ,king was the first sovereign to be crowned as ,emperor of ,india4 ,the robe which the ,king wears at the opening of ,parliament has a cape of ermine made up in miniver style1 and it is lined throughout with the same fur4 ,we might here say that ordinary ermine is decorated with the tails of the stoat1 which remain black when this animal puts on its winter dress1 whereas in the case of miniver the fur is spotted all over with little black pieces made from the skin of some other animal4 ,this has not always been the same1 but at the present time ,persian lamb is used4 ,the magnificence of the ,king's parliamentary robe and its train of crimson velvet may be gathered from the fact that in the making of the miniver1 upwards of ten thousand pieces of black fur were used4 ,in a portrait of the ,king1 taken when wearing this robe1 he is shown in the uniform of a ,field ,marshal1 and holds in his hand the ,field ,marshal's baton4 ,the latter originally was a box in which the general carried the orders of his sovereign1 and it is rather curious that what was once the emblem of the servant should come to be used by a crowned head himself4 ,the rank of noblemen is indicated on their parliamentary robes by the number of bands of ermine with which they are decorated4 ,a ,baron has two1 a ,viscount two and a half1 an ,earl three1 a ,marquis three and a half1 and a ,duke four1 whereas on their coronation robes the same effect is gained by a similar number of rows of black spots on the miniver1 which forms a kind of cape4 ,as in connection with life at ,court there are a number of special uniforms and official dresses which are carefully prescribed1 it is likely that we should find among the dress of those surrounding the sovereign1 many and excellent examples of survivals4 ,there is1 indeed1 one uniform which has come down to us practically unaltered from the year #adhe4 ,this is the dress worn by the ,yeomen of the ,guard1 who may be looked upon as the ,king's ,retainers4 7,see ,figure #adb47 ,it is an obvious example of the point that we have dwelt upon in connection with badges and liveries1 for borne on the back and chest are the royal crown and initials4 ,of course1 the latter have altered from time to time1 and when the ,king came to the throne the ,tudor crown1 which had been superseded by that of ,st4 ,edward1 was replaced4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adb4--;,a ,yeoman of the ,guard of the present reign4 ,the development of the badges on the coat is interesting4 ,in ,henry ,,vii's reign there was the crown and the red and white rose4 ,in the time of ,anne the thistle was added1 and the rose was placed upon a stalk4 ,the ,tudor crown was also replaced1 for during the ,stuart period1 ,st4 ,edward's crown had appeared1 and the royal motto was added4 ,in the ,georgian period ,st4 ,edward's crown again was made use of1 while ,george ,,iii added the shamrock4 ,now1 in ,king ,edward ,,vii's time1 we have the ,tudor crown1 the rose1 thistle1 and shamrock1 the motto ,dieu et mon droit1 and the initials ,e4,r4 ,what the original uniform was1 is not quite certain1 but practically the same kind of coat was worn in ,henry ,,viii's reign that appears now4 ,the ruff would appear to be ,elizabethan1 though the hat is earlier4 ,the officers used to wear a similar but more gorgeous uniform1 but when ,william ,,iv commanded that only officers of the army should be given commissions in the ,guard1 the present dress1 which is that of a field officer of the ,peninsular period1 was introduced4 ,when ,king ,edward ,,vii came to the throne he left the decision as to whether they should wear the old ,tudor dress1 to the officers themselves1 and they decided in favour of the more modern military one4 ,we might mention the halberds that are carried by the ,yeomen1 and also allude to some of the duties which they have carried out1 from the making of the ,king's bed in early times to searching the ,houses of ,parliament before the session opens1 which is a memory of ,guy ,fawkes1 and of attending1 as they have done for centuries1 at the giving of alms by the sovereign in ,westminster ,abbey on ,maundy ,thursday4 ,very many uniforms seen at ,court show the turned-back edges and the lining of the tails1 described when we were dealing with the evolution of the coat 7see p4 #cd7--;for instance1 in the case of the gentlemen-at-arms1 and of several officials4 ,we may mention also the ,scottish ,archers who wear a green coat with a turned-back part--which represents the lining--of red velvet4 ,the style of ,court dress which may be worn to-day by civilians has become somewhat simpler1 though ruffles and frills are still to be found in connection1 and may be worn with1 what is known as old-style dress that is always adopted by the legal profession4 ,the knee-breeches come from the time of ,william ,,iii1 and the coat in its original form dates back to the time of ,napoleon4 ,the sides of the coat have1 however1 been cut away1 and this was done during the last reign1 when the alteration was made for the convenience of those who were not accustomed to wear a sword4 ,the more recent simplification of ,court dress has1 however1 provided pitfalls for the unwary1 and all sorts of curious mistakes in small details are made4 ,to show how easy it is to put a button too many here1 or too few there1 we may describe the differences between the old and new styles4 ,on the old there are seven buttons up the front of the coat and three on the cuffs4 ,in the new1 there are but six in the first case and none in the second4 ,again1 in the simplified coat there are no buttons below the flaps 7which represent pockets71 and but four buttons behind on the tails4 ,in the old style there are three buttons below the flaps--while there are similar ornaments on the waistcoat1 which is skirted--and there are six buttons on the tails4 ,then in addition there is the wig-bag1 to which we shall refer in a moment1 at the back of the coat collar1 as well as the frills and ruffles4 ,although on the lace of these as much may be spent as on the rest of the costume1 the cost of the simpler dress is really not much less than that of the other4 ,a survival is1 of course1 to be seen in the sword and in the simplified costume1 it is worn in a frog instead of on a sling4 ,we have made it evident how much a man now depends upon his tailor for correctness in the detail of his ,court dress1 and it is amusing to find that wig-bags are put on to modern-style coats1 and that the number of buttons is often quite wrong2 but if these are the faults of the tailor1 it is the man himself who is responsible who goes to ,court with his sword hanging at his right side4 ,we have not heard of military men making such a mistake1 but officers have been known to appear with their cross-belts over the wrong shoulder4 ,it is a good thing for some that ,court etiquette is not so strict as it has been in the past4 ,a curious survival is found in connection with old-style dress and some of the uniforms which are worn by officials1 and we have had to mention similar vestiges when speaking of the ,lord ,mayor's coachman and of the ,welsh ,fusiliers4 ,this is what is known as a wig-bag 7see ,figures #aji and #aac71 though in the ,lord ,chamberlain's descriptions it is now referred to by the same name as the ornament of somewhat similar origin of the ,welsh ,fusiliers1 namely1 the flash4 ,it consists of a small bag of silk1 at the bottom corners of which little satin ribbon loops are fixed1 while the whole is covered by an elaborate rosette of satin ribbon1 and is suspended from the back of the coat collar4 ,the bag represents the old bag in which the bob of the wig was placed1 and the loops no doubt are those through which a ribbon was passed1 which went round the neck of those who wore wigs1 and was secured by a jewel on the breast4 ,this was to provide against the wig being lost1 should it fall from the head of its wearer1 for these curious replacements of natural hair were of considerable value1 costing twenty1 thirty1 sixty or even more guineas4 ,the rosette of ribbon is the modern representative of the bow that tied the wig4 7,see ,figure #adc47 ,we have already traced the connection which ,mr4 ,calthrop has shown between the cockade and the chaperon1 and we might mention again that this ancient form of head-dress survives in connection with the hood of the mantle of the ,knights of the ,garter and of other ,orders1 for instance1 those of ,st4 ,patrick and of the ,thistle4 7,see ,figure #add47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adc4--,the wig-bag or flash from a ,court suit1 showing the rosette held away and displaying the black silk bag4 ,at the lower corners of the latter loops are seen1 which are probably the remains of those through which a ribbon was passed1 which went round the neck and fastened on the breast by a brooch4 ,in the case of the ,knight of the ,garter1 the hood consists of a flat piece of crimson velvet about three-quarters of a yard across1 slightly oval in shape1 and at a spot a little on one side of the centre is to be found the remains of the turban of the chaperon4 ,it is a thick ring covered outside with crimson velvet1 and inside with white silk4 ,to one side of this is fastened a long band of crimson velvet one and three-quarter times as long as the hood is wide4 ,this represents1 of course1 the liripipe of the chaperon4 7,see page #aff and ,figures #abb-abe47 ,the edges of the velvet in all cases are ornamented with a white silk piping4 ,the hood is fixed on the right shoulder1 and the band representing the liripipe is brought across the breast of the wearer4 ,in addition there are some wide loops and ends of ribbon called the streamer1 and narrow ribbons with which to fasten the structure to the mantle4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #add4--,the hood from the mantle of a ,knight of the ,garter1 showing the survival of the chaperon and its liripipe4 ,the hoods of the ,orders of the ,thistle and of ,st4 ,patrick are similar in construction1 and in the case of the former the velvet of which they are made is blue in colour4 ,on the mantles of other ,orders only the streamer remains4 ,on the left shoulder of the ,knights of the ,bath and of ,st4 ,michael and ,st4 ,george there is a small vestige of aiguillettes4 ,this is of silk cord in the former case1 and of gold cord in the second4 ,the under-dress1 which is not commonly worn now1 is furnished with trunk hose and silk tights1 and from its appearance is known as the silver dress4 ,much the same style was carried out in all the ,orders that we have up to the present had occasion to mention4 ,in the more modern ,orders there is1 of course1 no such ancient under-dress4 ,if we have ,kings and ,queens at ,court1 we also have ,kings and ,queens and ,knaves among our playing-cards1 and the costumes which survive on the curious pictures which represent them in double1 but without their lower limbs1 are worthy of some little attention4 ,as a matter of fact1 they are ,tudor dresses1 slightly modified perhaps of recent years1 but nevertheless1 a common and widespread relic of the fashions which were in vogue when ,henry ,,viii was going through his matrimonial troubles1 and shaking this country clear from its allegiance to the ,pope4 ,there are two series of ceremonial dresses not immediately connected with the ,state which it may be worth while to investigate4 ,they are1 in the first place1 the liveries of the ,city ,companies1 and in the second the insignia of ,masons4 ,in the first case1 on some of the gowns we find again the chaperon appearing as a hood on the shoulder1 and many of the caps that are worn have survived for some centuries4 ,a few of the companies still possess their ancient embroidered hearse cloths1 which recall the early semi-religious and provident purposes of the guilds out of which the great ,city ,companies have developed4 ,there seems no doubt1 too1 but that the apron of the ,masons is actually derived from that worn by the craftsmen when at work1 and in some countries it is still of the same circular form as those which were used by the ,english masons of the eighteenth century4 ,other parts of the clothing of ,masons are no doubt derived from the old guild liveries1 and in the fact that some high officials wear gauntlets we have a reminder of the knights' armour1 and possibly a survival from the time when high officials were knights4 ,,xxv ,,survivals ,,in ,,military ,,uniforms ,,armour--,,prickers ,,for ,,flint-,,locks--,,forage ,,cords--,,reminiscences ,,of ,,gallantry--,,regimental ,,badges--,,courtship ,,colours ,the cuirass of the ,household troops which they wear on important occasions1 as well as the metal helmets of various regiments1 are survivals from the time when armour was of use1 and if we examine the shoulders of certain soldiers1 we shall find that there are vestiges of chain mail1 though now this only takes the place of epaulettes4 7,see ,figure #ade47 ,to see chain mail in its perfection we must go back to the time of ,edward ,i1 and if we look1 for instance1 at the brass of ,sir ,john ,d',aubernoun 7who died in the year #abgg7 or of ,sir ,richard de ,trumpington1 ,a4,d4 #abhi 7see ,figure #adf71 which are the earliest remaining in this country1 we shall find that the chain mail now represented by a little patch on the shoulder then covered the head and neck1 arms and hands1 body1 feet and legs4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ade4--,relic of chain mail on the shoulder of an ,imperial ,yeoman4 ,as time went on1 plate armour was mixed with the mail1 until at last1 in the time of ,henry ,,iv1 we get the complete plate period in which there was a breastplate and a corresponding back plate1 which had already appeared in the period of transition of chain mail to plate armour4 ,from thence onward the development of armour progressed until it gradually disappeared4 ,in ,stuart times1 jack boots and spur leathers took the place of the armour on the legs1 and a buff coat that on the body1 with the exception of a gorget4 ,this came to be in the early part of the nineteenth century1 merely a small badge of the officer on duty1 and in a still more diminished form is to be seen in some foreign armies4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adf4--;,chain mail illustrated by the brass of ,sir ,richard de ,trumpington1 ,a4,d4 #abhi4 ,in the earlier part of the book it was made evident that military uniforms afford a fine field for research1 though apart from the remains of armour1 however1 they are comparatively modern4 ,it was not1 indeed1 until the reign of ,charles ,,ii that we meet with uniforms regularly adopted by the ,army2 and the red coat which has given its name to the soldier1 though many regiments are dressed in other colours1 was previous to that time merely a best coat4 ,we see it now on fox-hunters and golfers1 though a long coat of this colour is still worn by the ,king's footmen and coachmen4 ,a writer in the ,spectator1 ,no4 #abi1 says1 when speaking of ,cornwall3 ,here we fancied ourselves in ,charles ,,ii's reign1 people having made little variation in their dress since that time4 ,the smartest of the country squires appear still in the ,monmouth cock2 when they go a-wooing 7whether they have any post in the militia or not7 they put on a red coat4 ,there had previous to the ,restoration been some attempt to introduce uniform dress for soldiers quite apart from the sovereign's special guards1 who1 after the fashion of retainers1 wore his livery4 ,for instance1 the ,duke of ,norfolk1 in the reign of ,henry ,,viii1 issued instructions that every soldier should wear a blue coat guarded with red1 the right hose to be red1 the left blue1 and a red stripe three fingers broad down the outside of each leg4 ,the archers are described as wearing white gaberdines1 at one time in this reign1 while in #aegf those belonging to ,ireland had a cassock of blue cloth with two small white guards4 ,red coats as well as others of blue or white were worn by the ,english troops in ,turenne's army in #afeg1 and examples of the last two colours are by no means extinct in the army to-day4 ,red1 blue1 grey1 and green1 it may be added1 were all worn during the ,civil ,war on both sides4 ,it must not be forgotten1 however1 that gay uniforms are now only used at home in times of peace1 for we have learnt a lesson from the lower animals1 many of which are protectively coloured1 and the service uniform to-day is one calculated to render its wearer as inconspicuous as possible4 ,before the time of firearms which could be used with precision1 and when hand-to-hand combats played a great part in war1 it was necessary for two adversaries to be able to see one another1 but now each tries to hide himself4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adg4--;,a reversion in military equipment4 ,one of ,cromwell's ,ironsides 7#afgi71 from a print4 ,a ,cavalryman sketched at ,aldershot in #aija4 ,copied1 by permission1 from the ,daily ,mail4 ,some years ago a sketch1 which was made from a cavalry man at ,aldershot1 was given in the ,daily ,mail2 side by side was shown another taken from a print representing one of ,cromwell's ,ironsides1 and the likeness between the two is almost exact4 7,see ,figure #adg47 ,ornamental epaulettes may also be looked upon as the last remnant of armour1 though the modern kind probably came from a shoulder-knot of ,charles ,,ii's time1 as they were originally intended to protect the shoulders from sword-thrusts4 ,at the present day1 though they are worn in the ,english ,navy and are common on the ,continent1 they have practically disappeared from the ,army4 ,the officers of the ,yeomen of the ,guard1 whose uniform is that which was worn in the ,peninsular ,war1 still wear epaulettes1 as do the ,gentlemen-at-,arms and the ,lords-,lieutenant of ,counties4 ,as we have said1 there is a fine field for the study of survivals in uniforms proper1 and from time to time many of these have attracted the notice of popular writers4#ce #cf ,additional interest is given to this subject by the fact that besides the variations which have gradually evolved1 there are special features which have suddenly appeared often in connection with some important battle1 which we might liken to the curious sports and freaks which sometimes occur in the natural history world4 ,when1 in #ahha1 the old regimental facings were abolished1 many distinctions vanished1 still there are more curious details left than we shall be able to describe4 ,we have already seen how the busby was derived from the ,hungarian cap1 and quite a number of other features have been introduced from foreign countries4 ,the square cap of the ,lancer is the national head-dress of the ,poles1 who call it a shapka1 and the uniform itself came from ,poland4 ,the sling jacket or dolman of the ,hussars 7see ,figure #hb71 which is now extinct in our army1 was also an introduction1 but still on the pouch-belt of ,light ,cavalry officers are the prickers fastened with silver chains1 which were used with old flint-lock muzzle-loaders4 7,see ,figure #adh47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adh4--,the prickers on the shoulder-belt of a ,hussar1 which survive from the time of flint-lock muskets4 ,some of these interesting but useless instruments are furnished with plain round knobs1 but others made as if they were arrows with feathered shafts4 ,mr4 ,caton ,woodville gives the following explanation of the aiguillettes worn by aides-de-camp4 ,he says that they date from the days when the war-horses1 or chargers1 were of solid build and slow of movement1 and when only the adjutants were mounted on fleet steeds4 ,then the head-dress was a heavy three-cornered hat perched on a wig that was itself often not too securely fastened to its wearer's head4 ,he needed1 therefore1 a cord with metal tags passing round the brim and under the loops which upheld its three sides4 ,it was fastened to the officer's shoulder1 as the weight of the felt hat1 with its bars of steel as a protection against sword cuts1 was considerable1 and it was enough to choke a man if it should happen to dangle from his throat1 so the aiguillettes have become the distinguished mark of the assistant to the general commanding in the field or garrison4 ,it should1 however1 be mentioned also that these ornaments are worn in the ,household ,cavalry by non-commissioned officers1 and are a relic there of the days when these soldiers were gentlemen of the ,royal ,life ,guards1 who had the right to a commission in a line regiment after a certain number of years' service4 ,other soldiers carry them1 as do also the footmen of the nobility4 ,horse soldiers have also an ornamental cord to their head-dresses1 and it seems likely that the aiguillettes had another origin1 and that prickers or some other instruments were at one time attached to them4 ,in the ,lancers there is a very long cap-line1 which has been mixed up1 we are told by ,mr4 ,p4 ,w4 ,reynolds1 with a very interesting survival4 ,this is the remains of a cord used for binding up grass and other forage into bundles1 worn for convenience round the body1 and over one shoulder by cavalry men1 when it was not in use4 ,it is known to the ,french as a fourragre4 ,in the ,lancers the cap-line passes round the cap and is brought under the right shoulder-strap4 ,so far it is the original cap-line2 then it passes twice round the body1 under the left arm1 and under the right shoulder-strap1 and ends1 in a festoon and a couple of acorns1 which remind one of aiguillettes1 on the left breast4 ,the part that goes round the body is the old forage cord4 ,the sergeants' sashes1 it is said1 were originally intended to make slings so that the wounded could be carried out of action with the help of pikes1 and the drum-major's baton is the survival of a cane which the drill-sergeant sometimes used on the backs of the recruits4 ,the flash of the ,welsh ,fusiliers1 as we have seen1 is a survival from the times when wigs were worn4 ,here and there we find old head-dresses once nearly universal1 such as the shako which is now confined to the ,highland ,light ,infantry and the ,scottish ,rifles4 ,other regiments1 such as those of the ,rifle ,brigade1 which have been at times used as cavalry1 retain certain features of the horse soldier's uniform4 ,for instance1 the ,rifle ,brigade has a head-dress which resembles the ,hussars' busby1 and instead of a sash the officers wear a cross-belt4 ,the officers of the ,somersetshire ,light ,infantry1 which on one occasion was turned into cavalry at a moment's notice1 wear a mess jacket of the cavalry pattern2 they have also a black worm in their lace1 like the ,east ,yorkshire and ,north ,lancashire regiments1 which is usually explained as being mourning for ,sir ,john ,moore in the first case1 and for ,general ,wolfe in the two others4 ,before turning to peculiarities which were granted for special services1 we may mention the black tunics and black plumes of the farriers belonging to the ,life ,guards1 who carry a great axe with which to kill horses that are wounded in battle1 and the state trumpeters also of the ,household ,cavalry1 who wear a highly ornamental uniform which has persisted for nearly two centuries4 ,there still remain relics of the time when commanding officers had a great deal to say in connection with the uniforms of their regiments4 ,when the ,cameron ,highlanders were first raised in #agid1 ,colonel ,cameron did not adopt the ,cameron tartan1 because he did not think it would go well with a scarlet tunic1 and he introduced one which had been designed by his mother1 called the ,cameron ,erracht1 which has been worn ever since4 ,the ,white ,horse of ,hanover appears as a badge on several regiments1 and it is recorded that ,george ,i1 objecting to the private crests of the commanding officers1 replaced them in many cases with the ,hanoverian device4 ,even now1 in spite of the minute regulations of the ,war ,office1 which are continually being altered1 the uniforms are not always made absolutely as they are prescribed4 ,little details may be added1 and colonels still seem to exercise some influence in the matter4 ,the red puggaree of the ,duke of ,cornwall's ,light ,infantry is not obtained from the regimental tailor who supplies the uniform4 ,the white jackets of the ,guards and ,highland corps which are worn in undress are still called waistcoats1 and1 according to ,mr4 ,walter ,wood1 are a relic of the white waistcoat which was worn under the tunic by the ,british soldiers down to the time of ,william ,,iv4 ,it must1 however1 be remembered that a waistcoat was originally an outer garment1 as indicated on page #adh4 ,an exceedingly curious privilege is that which has been accorded to the non-commissioned officers and men of the ,royal ,marines1 who for many years have been allowed when in mourning1 to cover one button of their tunics with crape4 ,the ,eighth ,hussars wear their sword-belts over their shoulders1 and the tradition is that at the battle of ,saragossa they behaved so gallantly that they totally destroyed a corps of ,spanish cavalry and took possession of their adversaries' belts4 ,perhaps the most curious mark of distinction is the extra drummer of the ,third ,hussars1 who enjoys special pay and is permitted to wear a sergeant's uniform4 ,this privilege was granted by ,george ,,iii when it was brought to his notice that the regiment possessed some silver kettledrums which they had captured4 ,the request for this honour was made in #aggh by ,general ,fitzroy1 and his wife presented a silver collar for the use of the additional drummer which is still worn to-day4 ,it is handsomely engraved with military devices1 and fits closely round the throat4 ,in full dress the ,eleventh ,hussars wear an ivory-hilted sword made on the model of one picked up at ,bhurtpore4 ,the ,fifteenth ,hussars wear the ,austrian ,imperial lace on account of their gallantry at ,villiers-en-,couche1 which prevented the ,emperor of ,austria from falling a prisoner to the ,french4 ,the ,scots ,greys were given ,grenadier caps1 which are not worn by other cavalry regiments1 for their bravery at ,ramillies4 ,the ,northumberland ,fusiliers have red and white hackle feathers--that is to say1 that the upper part of their plume is red1 and the lower part white4 ,it is recorded that at ,wilhelmstahl1 and also when in ,st4 ,lucia1 this regiment was victorious after great struggles1 and took from the caps of the ,french ,grenadiers who were slain1 enough white feathers to fit up the whole regiment with plumes1 the use of which afterwards received official sanction4 ,when1 however1 an order was made in #ahbi that white plumes should be generally worn1 the ,fusiliers complained that they would lose the distinction which they enjoyed1 and by a compromise they were allowed to have a plume which was half red and half white4 ,the ,northumberland ,fusiliers share with one or two other regiments1 that distinguished themselves at the battle of ,minden1 the privilege of wearing roses in their caps on ,st4 ,george's ,day4 ,we might spend a considerable time in dealing with the badges of various regiments1 for often the history of the latter is bound up with them4 ,they figure on the collar and other parts of the uniform1 and occasionally1 as badges might be expected to do1 they appear on the buttons4 ,we have touched upon this subject in connection with ,george ,i4 ,the ,scots ,greys have as a badge an eagle with outstretched wings4 ,it commemorates the capture of a ,french eagle at ,waterloo by ,sergeant ,ewart1 who was given a commission for his bravery4 ,the ,gloucestershire ,regiment has a badge in front and another on the back of the helmets1 because on one occasion1 in ,egypt1 when it was attacked in the rear as well as in front by large bodies of ,french cavalry1 and there was no time to form a square1 the commanding officer gave the order1 ,rear rank1 right about face1 fire6 ,the result was that the enemy was beaten off4 ,in connection with this achievement the second badge was given4 ,an interesting tale is told with regard to the formation of the ,guards by ,charles ,,ii after the ,restoration4 ,there were three regiments present1 and they were commanded to take up arms as the ,first1 ,second1 and ,third ,guards1 but while the first and third obeyed the order1 ,general ,monk's regiment stood still4 ,the ,king1 who was surprised at the apparent insubordination1 asked ,monk for the reason4 ,whereupon he said that his regiment declined to be considered second to any other4 ,as a result1 ,charles is said to have answered1 ,very well1 they shall be my ,coldstream ,regiment of ,foot ,guards1 and second to none4 ,from this comes their motto1 ,nulli secundus4 ,it may be mentioned1 also1 that this regiment has a distinction which is absolutely unique in the ,army1 as it bears on the ,king's colour a small ,union ,jack1 which commemorates the fact that ,monk was an ,admiral of the ,fleet as well as a ,general4 ,it is only about a hundred years since the pretensions of the ,english sovereigns to the throne of ,france ceased to be evident1 for it was not until the end of ,george ,,iii's reign that the ,french fleur-de-lys were removed from the ,royal ,arms and disappeared from our coins4 ,there is still1 however1 a survival of the lilies of ,france on the braid of the drummers in the ,guards4 ,white lace with red crowns is what is almost universally worn by drummers in the ,army1 but the crown is replaced in the case mentioned by the fleur-de-lys4 ,whilst speaking of the ,guards1 one may recall that not very long ago a uniform was used by the solicitor with which these soldiers were1 and in the case of the ,coldstream ,guards are still1 provided4 ,the solicitor1 like the medical officer1 wore the cocked hat that is now dying out in the ,army1 though generals and aides-de-camp still adopt this most curious outcome of the ,cavalier's beaver4 ,here and there1 as in the case of the surgeon and veterinary surgeon of the ,life ,guards1 and the medical officers of some ,volunteer regiments1 we still see the cocked hat4 ,it flourishes also in ,court dress1 it adorns the ,lords-,lieutenant and their deputies1 besides maintaining its position among the officers of the ,navy4 ,fur1 the material of which the first clothes of our ancestors were made1 is still seen to a considerable extent in the ,army1 and is chiefly used for the construction of busbies4 ,so important was the trade in furs for military purposes at one time1 that bear-skins were classified as follows3 ,officers1 or first grade2 ,grenadiers1 or second grade2 and unfit for the ,army1 or third grade4 ,like all features of dress which are exaggerated1 the big busbies of the ,guards have on more than one occasion afforded material for the caricaturist4 ,leech depicted the soldiers of the ,brigade of ,guards warming their hands and feet in their busbies1 which they used as muffs2 and an amusing series of sketches for the amusement of the young people was published not long ago1 in which the soldier disappeared almost entirely into his busby and became a sort of ,humpty-,dumpty4 ,tall hats of the type of our modern silk hats were not unknown in the ,army4 ,perhaps it may come as a shock to some that ,lord ,howard of ,effingham is shown in a portrait as wearing a top hat1 in shape very similar to the modern form1 but ornamented with a plume of ostrich feathers4 ,there is1 we believe1 however1 still one top hat which is served out by the ,war ,office at the present day1 and this is worn by the ,chapel ,keeper at ,wellington ,barracks4 ,of buttons we have already spoken times out of number1 and it may be interesting to mention here that the various regiments of the ,brigade of ,guards may be told by the arrangement of buttons on the tunic4 ,they are arranged at even distances apart in the ,grenadiers1 in twos on the ,coldstreams1 and in threes on the ,scots ,guards1 and in fours on the ,irish ,guards1 which were created of recent years4 ,we find plenty of survivals in the ,army of buttons which are seen in similar places to those on civilians' clothes4 ,mr4 ,p4 ,w4 ,reynolds has pointed out another1 which is found in connection with a cord loop on the collars of the officers of the ,oxfordshire ,light ,infantry4 ,this is a survival of a fashion once universal in the ,british ,infantry1 though the loop often consisted of half-inch lace instead of cord4 ,the button was originally on a turned-down collar1 and previous to that was on the coat1 coming through a hole in the collar with a view to holding the latter properly in place4 ,if officers and sergeants were seen together it would probably be noticed that the former wear their sashes over the left shoulder1 whilst the latter wear theirs over the right4 ,to this a single exception can1 however1 be found4 ,in the ,twenty-ninth ,foot the sergeants and officers both wear their sashes over the left shoulder1 and this custom has been traced back to the battle of ,culloden1 where so many officers were slain that the sergeants had to take their places4 ,the drummers of the ,leicestershire ,regiment on state occasions wear tiger-skin aprons instead of the usual ones of pipeclayed leather4 ,this is connected1 as is also their badge1 with their services in ,india4 ,a point that is perhaps not generally known is that officers going on voyages in hot climates are allowed to substitute the kamarband for the mess waistcoat1 various colours being adopted by various regiments4 ,we have seen the origin of the red coat so far as it affects the modern army4 ,under these circumstances it is hardly necessary to say that it is not intended to prevent the soldier from seeing his blood when he is wounded1 as has sometimes been suggested4 ,it might be taken as acting as a warning colour like that of the wasp or hornet1 but we have also noticed the way in which conspicuous dress is replaced by protectively coloured uniforms when the soldiers are upon active service4 ,we cannot help mentioning1 however1 one case in which the ornamental garb of peace proves useful to its wearer4 ,we find in the animal kingdom that1 whatever may happen in modern times in our own case1 the males are as a rule the more brightly coloured1 and we have come to call the brilliant hues with which they are endowed courtship colours4 ,the charm which our gallant soldiers seem to have for the fair sex surely entitles us to reckon the gay uniforms of our ,army as coming into the category of courtship colours4 ,,xxvi ,,naval ,,uniforms ,,supposed ,,survivals--,,petticoats ,,and ,,wide ,,breeches ,if we had headed this chapter survivals in naval dress1 we should have been in the historic predicament of the writer who took as his topic the snakes of ,iceland1 and afterwards had to own that there were none4 ,it would be better1 however1 if we were to say that there are no survivals of a strictly naval kind1 as then we should be nearer the truth4 ,there are1 of course1 in the uniform of both officers and men1 plenty of survivals from civilian costume1 such as we have spent much time in describing4 ,though the crews of the galleys1 which are the boats reserved for the captain's use1 had1 in the case of the smart ships1 long been dressed in a uniform manner1 the actual uniforms of the ,navy only date from a little before the year #agfg4 ,the colours1 blue and white1 so tradition says1 were due to an inspiration which ,george ,,ii received1 while the subject was under discussion1 on seeing the ,duchess of ,bedford riding in a new habit which was of blue faced with white4 ,there are two points in the dress of the ordinary sailor which are commonly supposed to be interesting survivals1 and indeed they appear on the surface to have all the makings of such4 ,it has been thought that the black silk handkerchief which a sailor wears round his neck was first put on as mourning for the death of ,nelson4 ,the other matter is the blue jean collar which covers the similar-shaped one which is made of the same material as the sailor's jumper4 ,this would no doubt have protected its fellow from the grease of the pigtail which sailors wore once2 but ,commander ,robinson1 who has gone into the question1 says that pigtails were discarded before the blue jean collar came into existence1 and at the same time tells us that black silk handkerchiefs were adopted previous to the time of ,nelson4 ,it is not perhaps very widely known that sailors at one time wore a kind of kilt or petticoat1 and this no longer ago than the year #aggi4 ,some thirty or forty years earlier there were in vogue loose slops like the petticoat breeches of the reign of ,charles ,,ii1 and the collar of the coat1 which was open at the neck1 turned back on to the shoulders4 ,the trousers1 however1 that are now adopted are tight round the body and thighs1 but remain very loose round the legs1 and are therefore somewhat curious4 ,the method of buttoning is one which they share with the gentlemen of ,george ,,ii's time1 the old-fashioned labourer1 and1 we believe1 the bishop4 ,,xxvii ,,the ,,costume ,,of ,,puppets ,,punch ,,and ,,judy--,,fashion ,,dolls--,,dolls ,,in ,,swaddling ,,clothes--,,the ,,egyptian ,,shabbies ,by way of a change let us turn from people to their images--in fact1 to puppets and dolls--for these semblances and caricatures of human forms are generally clothed1 and at times may present to us very curious survivals4 ,let us begin with ,punch and ,judy1 and in this connection we must not forget the dog ,toby1 for the ruff which he wears round his neck is a reminiscence of ,queen ,elizabeth's reign4 ,punch himself1 however1 is very much older than his clothes1 though to find the explanation of the hump in front we must examine the clothes of the time of ,henry ,,iii of ,france1 when the men's busked doublets came down low to a strap-shaped point1 and had a great padded punch-like protuberance4#cg ,for other peculiarities that we see we may have to go to the times of ,henry ,,iv of ,france1 but the character is very many centuries older2 and the careful investigations made by a friend of the present writer1 ,mr4 ,george ,heppel1#ch into the history of ,punch have shown why his present costume was adopted and what was his prototype4 ,as might be expected1 the original ,punch was a man--not ,pontius ,pilate1 as has sometimes been suggested owing to the connection of ,punch with miracle plays1 but a character in the old ,italian farces1 which go back to the early days of ,rome4 ,the town most celebrated for such entertainments was ,atella1 situated not very far from ,naples4 ,the farcical plays were full of buffoonery1 and ,punch or ,pulicinella was one of the stock characters1 represented by a live actor1 as were also the originals of the ,harlequin1 ,pantaloon1 and ,scaramouch1 among others4 ,it appears that the plays were not written as we understand a play to be written1 but as a rule the plot of them was known1 and a great deal of the dialogue was left to the actors themselves4 ,from this it will be seen that the art of gagging can hardly be considered to be modern4 ,the ,italian1 though by no means great as a dramatic author1 was1 as he is now1 exceedingly good as an actor4 ,it is said#ci that for genuine fun no dramatist can beat the ,neapolitan1 no actor can surpass him4 ,he writes or acts without the least effort2 it is born in him1 and he cannot help it4 ,the very beggar-boy who hunts one along the street is a consummate actor2 his gestures are prolific1 easy1 and natural2 he is a facial artist without knowing it1 and he has a power of elocution and expression which are only acquired by experienced performers after many years of study4 ,it may perhaps come as a surprise to many1 seeing how long ,punch has persisted1 to learn that in ,italy he was not one of the important characters in the original plays1 but his choice as the hero of the puppet-show depended rather on the fact that he had not so much to do as some of the others--the harlequin1 for instance4 ,therefore his character could be better portrayed under the restricted conditions that prevailed in such an entertainment as the ,punch and ,judy show4 ,it will be obvious also that only two characters can be acting at one time1 as the showman has only two hands4 ,mr4 ,heppel could only trace one instance of ,punch figures being worked by wires like other marionettes4 ,this is a figure in a little book no larger than a playing-card1 entitled ,scnes de ,polichinelle1 in the ,art ,library at the ,south ,kensington ,museum4 ,the showman in the case of the ,french ,punch on occasion makes a virtue of necessity1 and when the hero of the puppet-show is about to be tried for murder1 the performance is interrupted in order that the following apology may be made3--,the scene which we are about to have the honour to put before you requires a tolerably large number of characters4 ,it is1 indeed1 impossible to suppose that so important a prisoner as ,guignol should be tried without due ceremony and by a single judge1 but as the director of this theatre1 like the generality of mankind1 has but two hands1 the actors in this scene will most of them remain quite still4 ,this need not in the least interfere with the truth of the representation1 for this stillness gives the administration of justice an additional solemnity4 ,we may suppose that the judges are asleep1 which will enable them to decide free from passion1 and that the officials of the court are paralysed by the majesty of the court and the magnitude of the issues to be determined4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adi4--,the ,oscan ,pulicinella of #agca1 without a long nose4 ,the dress is very similar to that figured in #afcj 7after ,riccoboni74 ,the ,punch and ,judy show went on in ,italy side by side with the farces that were represented by living actors1 but the idea of puppet-shows is very much more ancient than this4 ,the clothes of ,punch were plain1 and illustrations made in #afcj are similar to others made a hundred years later 7see ,figures #adi and #aej74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aej4--,the ,calabrian ,giangurgolo of #agca1 with the long nose4 ,the dress is very similar to that figured in #afcj 7after ,riccoboni74 ,originally1 also1 ,punch does not seem to have had a long nose4 ,the exaggerated nose is1 however1 found on the representative of ,punch which flourished in ,calabria1 and which went by the name of ,giangurgolo 7see ,figure #aej74 ,the ,french ,punch is called ,guignol1 of which the derivation cannot be directly traced1 but ,mr4 ,heppel has made an interesting suggestion that in the name of this character is to be found that of ,giangurgolo in a contracted form4 ,as may have been surmised1 we got our ,punch and ,judy by way of ,france1 but as a human actor ,punch himself came direct to ,england4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aea4--;,an ancient bronze statuette with the face and features of ,punch 7after ,ficorroni74 ,an ancient statuette which is figured by ,ficorroni 7see ,figure #aea7 is supposed by antiquarians to represent ,punch1 and if the individual whom it represents did not go by that name1 he must certainly have been one of ,punch's ancestors1 for the likeness to our modern hero is exceedingly great4 ,references are made by a number of classical authors to puppet-shows1 and these were also known in ,china as long ago as a thousand years before the ,christian era4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aeb4--;,a fourteenth-century puppet-show 7from the ,,ms4 of the ,roman d',alexandre74 ,the method also of exhibiting the puppets is not very modern1 for a very interesting figure of a show embellishes the celebrated ,,ms4 of the ,roman d',alexandre 7see ,figure #aeb7 which is preserved in the ,bodleian ,library at ,oxford1 and was executed between the years #acch and #acdd4 ,the figures were evidently worked by the hands as in ,punch and ,judy1 and that it was intended to amuse children is shown by three little girls who are represented as looking on4 ,though sticks are not strictly a part of dress1 unless we consider the canes of the dandies as being so1 yet their usefulness in puppet-shows is so great that we are tempted to digress for a moment to give the comments of ,m4 ,lemercier de ,neuville on the subject3-- ,the stick6 that is the great argument of ,guignol1 as well as of ,polichinelle4 ,the stick settles everything4 ,it puts an end to disputes1 it pays debts1 it sends away troublesome people1 it disciplines wives1 it takes vengeance on men1 it is the ',deus ex machina' of all this ,lilliputian world4 ,what a marvellous dramatic resource it is4 ,if a situation becomes difficult to manage1 settle it with a blow of the stick4 ,if a dnouement seems to hang fire1 hasten its progress by a thrashing4 ,the stick is above all criticism2 it checkmates it1 it destroys it1 for it is in the right1 in spite of everybody1 because it is the strongest4 ,the stick has no respect of persons4 ,with it ,guignol beats his creditors1 his friends1 his wife1 the constable1 the judge1 the hangman1 and the more he strikes the more he makes people laugh4 ,there is no spoken joke that is as good as this4 ,and yet the stick is not beautiful1 nor is it new4 ,one sees that it has done duty for a long time1 for it is worn out and cracked4 ,we have1 in fact1 a record of ,italian players coming to act their farces in this country in #aegg1 but as ,punch in the capacity of a person is now obsolete with us1 we shall only incidentally refer to him as a living actor1 though perhaps we might recall the fact that ,molire introduced him into his play ,le ,malade ,imaginaire4 ,we have spoken already of ,punch's hump in front1 and it may be interesting in this connection to give the opinion of a ,frenchman on the subject of ,punch's bodily characteristics4 ,m4 ,magnin says that with a sufficient amount of exaggeration and caricature to set aside the suspicion of disloyalty1 the ,punch figure recalls the appearance of some ,gascon officer imitating the walk and demeanour of ,henri ,,iv in the ,guard ,chamber of ,st4 ,germain or in the ,louvre4 ,the hump in front1 he says1 was derived from the protuberance of the heavy cuirass4 ,this is much the same explanation as that which we have already given1 though the cuirass probably stuck out in front of its wearer even more than did the doublet4 ,there is no doubt but that the ,french like gayer dresses than the ,italians1 and we have seen that even in #afcj the clothes of ,harlequin1 ,pantaloon1 and ,scaramouch in ,italy were1 like those of ,punch1 plain and simple2 but in order to be popular in ,france the ,pulicinella had to dress in a new style1 and it is known that already in #afdi the puppet-show of which he is the hero had set up on the left bank of the ,seine1 opposite the ,louvre4 ,when ,punch got to ,england it was at a time when gay clothes were worn1 and some relics of these he has retained to the present day4 ,red and yellow play a considerable part in the dress of the ,punch figures used by ,mr4 ,w4 ,h4 ,jesson1 the members of whose family have for generations been performers of ,punch and ,judy1 and who is one of the few that are still left4 ,punch has a very high cap of antique appearance1 with turned-up brim and a bow of ribbon on the top4 ,the hump on his back is almost horn-like1 and forms a complete circle4 ,it seems unlikely that this appendage was developed from any part of costume unless it were perhaps the liripipe2 but we may rather imagine that in the past ,pulicinella may have been represented as being a hunchback1 and certainly ,figure #aea1 taken from the statuette mentioned previously1 suggests an individual suffering from such a deformity4 ,punch also wears a ruff 7see ,figure #aec71 though it is not a separate part of his costume1 as in ,judy's case1 where it is of lace and its character is well shown1 as it consists of more than one thickness4 ,judy's head-dress is the mob cap which was fashionable in the time of ,george ,,iii4 7,see ,figure #aed47 ,the beadle1 with his three-cornered hat and his brightly trimmed coat and cape1 has survived for a century or so after his clothes first became fashionable1 and no doubt in the puppet-show he will persist for many years when every living representative of his kind has passed away4 7,see ,figure #aee47 ,of two more characters we have a word to say1--in the first place1 of the doctor1 who is brought before us in clothes of almost clerical cut1 which remind us of the fact that the members of the medical profession were once more easily recognized by their dress than they are now 7see ,figure #aef72 in the second1 of ,toby1 whose sole costume consists of a ruff1 that once more takes us back to the time of ,good ,queen ,bess4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aec4--,punch1 from the ,punch and ,judy ,show1 showing the ruff and other details of ,elizabethan costume4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aed4--;,judy1 from the ,punch and ,judy ,show1 with ruff1 mob cap1 and apron4 ,though ,punch has donned new clothes and altered his habits to suit not only the countries in which he sojourned1 but the times in which he has performed1 yet despite these and other changes that have gone on since he set foot on these islands1 there is one thing that has always been his special characteristic4 ,this is his squeaky voice1 which he retained even in ,molire's play1 and it is from the peculiarity of his voice that he gained his name4 ,pulicinella means a hen-chicken1 which might well be expected to have a squeaky voice4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aee4--,the ,beadle1 from the ,punch and ,judy ,show4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aef4--,the ,doctor1 from the ,punch and ,judy ,show1 with wig and white tie4 ,with regard to the changes in ,punch's behaviour we have a word to say4 ,originally he was somewhat of a composite character1 the constituent elements being derived from several of the personages of the larger theatre4 ,at first1 to the amorous and intriguing ways of ,pulicinella there was added the roguery of ,scaramouch1 as well as the dash and braggadocio of the ,spanish captain who was a member of the comedy company1 akin to the ,miles ,gloriosus of ,plautus and the ,bobadil of ,ben ,jonson4 ,as time went on there was less love-making and trickery and more knocking about1 but ,mr4 ,heppel will not allow that the ,french writers are right in ascribing the whole of this to ,english influence4 ,for the fact that the puppets are not alive gives an opportunity for dealing blows with a reality that could not be tolerated if the actors were living1 and when we remember the way in which dog ,toby seizes ,punch by the nose1 we cannot help feeling that the effect could hardly be so realistically produced on the actual stage4 ,in ,france1 ,punch is a bachelor1 or if he is married he is not very much married1 while in ,england ,punch always runs in double harness4 ,another alteration has taken place4 ,polly1 who was one of the characters that have disappeared1 has departed for the reasons put into the showman's mouth by ,mr4 ,henry ,mayhew in #ahfa4 ,miss ,polly was left out1 because it wasn't exactly moral4 ,opinions has changed4 ,we ain't better1 ,i fancy4 ,such things goes on1 but people don't like to let it be seen now2 that's the difference4 ,judy's dress1 you see1 is far different1 bless you1 than ,miss ,polly's4 ,judy's1 you see1 is bed-furniture stuff1 and ,polly's is all silk and satin4 ,yes1 that's the way of the world2 the wife comes off second best4 ,as in old times1 there was much buffoonery introduced even into religious plays1 and the characters which have been separated from the other performers to take part in the special harlequinade of the modern pantomime used1 together with ,punch1 to appear side by side with those who took the part of religious personages4 ,to uneducated people there seemed nothing profane about this2 but as time went on men and women came to look at matters in a different light4 ,for reasons somewhat similar1 the devil and the ghost are now left out1 and in the performances that are given in drawing-rooms even the coffin1 in some cases4 ,the connection1 however1 of ,punch with religious plays probably accounts for the name by which his wife now goes4 ,those who mistakenly supposed that the word ,punch was derived from ,pontius ,pilate looked upon ,judy as representing ,judas ,iscariot4 ,we have already pointed out the origin of the former appellation1 which ante-dates the ,christian era1 while a difficulty is met with in the fact that the wife of ,punch for many years was known as ,joan4 ,mr4 ,heppel says that of the miracle plays some of the most popular were taken from the ,apocrypha1 and a very favourite subject was the tale of ,judith and ,holofernes4 ,if we cannot find an instance recorded of ,punch furnishing the amusement in this story1 we can1 at any rate1 find an advertisement of a play in which ,harlequin and ,judith were together1 and the comic business was sometimes entrusted to ,punch and sometimes to ,harlequin4 ,hence ,punch and ,judy may not improbably have come from ,punch and ,judith1 while ,toby naturally suggests the dog in the book of ,tobit4 ,with regard to ,toby1 it may be said that he is represented in ,france by a cat1 and that until the nineteenth century he was only a stuffed figure4 ,in ,china1 where ,punch beats his wife to the music of the clarionette instead of ,pandan pipes held in a muffler1 ,toby is replaced by a wooden dragon with jaws that snap1 and this figure is also now introduced in ,england4 ,hector the horse has quite disappeared4 ,we might mention here that in the ,english version a clown is brought in with very considerable effect4 ,there is another connection of dolls with costume rather than of costume with dolls which we may mention at this point4 ,in the fourteenth century1 when there were no fashion plates1 and written descriptions would hardly do their duty effectively1 model costumes were put upon dolls and sent from country to country4 ,it is1 moreover1 a curious and interesting fact that it was principally from ,paris that these fashions were sent out4 ,examples of national costumes sometimes survive on the bodies of dolls4 ,the figure of ,st4 ,nicholas1 in ,belgium1 shows an old dress1 and the costume dolls of ,holland1 ,france1 and ,switzerland are excellent records of native dress now seldom seen in everyday life4 ,mr4 ,edward ,lovett bought a little doll in ,lucerne which is in a cradle1 and shows excellently well the swaddling clothes that were formerly in use4 ,ancient ,greek and ,roman dolls1 taken from children's graves1 were similarly dressed1 and a modern ,russian doll1 which is also in possession of ,mr4 ,lovett1 is shown with the swathing band in situ4 ,the only dolls that are to be found in ,malta represent ancient saints1 and it is said that they are dressed as such4 ,the long garments of ,noah and his sons in the toy ,noah's ,ark are worthy of mention and are an interesting survival4 ,the wrappings that were placed round mummies in ancient ,egypt are shown on figures which were found in the tombs1 and which are often seen as curiosities in this country4 ,they were carved out of wood or modelled out of clay1 while some of them were made out of the well-known glazed faence4 ,they were put into the tombs in order that they might do the work of the deceased in his after life1 and their origin is exceedingly interesting4 ,many barbarous nations have in the past sacrificed the servants of a chief at his funeral1 and the ,egyptians1 who were humane people1 contented themselves with a make-believe1 and replaced the actual persons with the figures that we call ushabti1 or1 in modern parlance1 shabbies4 ,,xxviii ,,the ,,clown ,,and ,,painting ,,the ,,body ,,the ,,clown',s ,,dress--,,savage ,,painting ,,and ,,survivals ,,of ,,it--,,tattooing--,,patches ,,and ,,false ,,complexions--,,masks ,no costume is perhaps more characteristic or better known than that of the clown2 and it is of special interest1 for while the hat was fashionable at the beginning of the fifteenth century1 the dress1 generally speaking1 is a caricature of that which was in vogue in the time of ,queen ,elizabeth4 ,the same remarks apply to the method of hair-dressing1 and we shall see1 when dealing with the other characters that appear in the harlequinade1 that the pantaloon in his dress illustrates that of the same time in our history4 ,unlike the other heroes of the pantomime1 the clown is essentially ,english1 and he is to be found also in the circus of to-day1 at all times of the year1 as well as on the stage at ,christmas4 ,as to the clown's clothes1 first of all there is the ruff1 which is1 however1 not stiffened out4 ,he has trunk hose or wide breeches which do not reach to his knee1 his stockings are well ornamented with clocks2 and lastly1 there is the paint on his face1 which brings us to a custom that seems nearly as old as man himself4 7,see ,figure #aeg and ,plate ,x1 ,figure ,a47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aeg4--;,a clown1 showing a survival of an ,elizabethan costume4 ,among the relics of the ancient cave men of ,europe are found hollowed stones1 and these were used as mortars in which ochre and other colours were ground for painting the body4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 ,a4 ,,the ,,head ,,of ,a ,,clown1 ,,showing ,,the ,,painted ,,face1 ,,the ,,ruff ,,and ,,the ,,elizabethan ,,method ,,of ,,doing ,,the ,,hair4 ,,fig4 ,b4 ,,the ,,face ,,of ,a ,,japanese ,,actor4 7,after ,moseley1 by the courtesy of ,mr4 ,john ,murray47 ,,fig4 ,c4 ,,the ,,painted ,,face ,,of ,a ,,paper ,,figure ,,which ,,is ,,burned ,,at ,,chinese ,,funerals4 7,after ,moseley1 by the courtesy of ,mr4 ,john ,murray47 ,,fig4 ,d4 ,,the ,,tattooed ,,head ,,of ,a ,,maori ,,chief4 7,by the courtesy of ,general ,robley47 ,,plate ,x4 ,the ,egyptians still follow the practice of blackening the edge of the eyelid1 both below and above the eye1 with a black powder called kohl4 ,the material is prepared either from burning an aromatic resin or the shells of almonds4 ,the custom prevailed among both sexes in ,egypt far back in its history1 and long before the historic period1 painting the eyes was already practised by the people whom ,professor ,petrie called the ,new ,race 7until he determined that they preceded the dynastic ,egyptians74 ,it may be well to point out that these prehistoric people lived about #fjjj years ,b4,c43 they had little or no metal1 though they made most beautiful flint knives and stone vases4 ,they buried their dead lying on one side with the knees towards the chin1 instead of making mummies4 ,among the contents of their tombs have been found curious slate palettes of all shapes and sizes1 similar to some which had previously been known for many years1 but the origin of which was undetermined4 ,it has been shown that these palettes were used for grinding up malachite to form a green colour with which to paint the eye4 ,the idea was1 it is supposed1 to mitigate the glare of the sun1 and is similar to that which leads ,anglo-,indians to have the under sides of the brims of their hats coloured green4 ,another kind of temporary ornamentation is produced in ,egypt to-day by staining the feet and hands with the juice of the leaves of henna4 ,the result is that the part to which it is applied becomes a yellowish red or deep orange colour4 ,the most common practice is to dye the tips of the fingers and toes so far as the first joint1 the whole of the inside of the hand and the sole of the foot1 and there are other and more fanciful modes of applying the henna1 which is said to have an agreeable effect upon the skin1 particularly in the way of preventing it from becoming too tender4 ,the dyeing has to be renewed every fortnight or three weeks1 and the stain is brighter and more permanent on the nails than on the fingers4 ,among many native races in a low stage of civilization there are few who do not decorate their body by painting it in some way4 ,we have already mentioned that painting takes away the appearance of nakedness1 and that many nations would be as much ashamed to be seen without their paint1 as ,europeans would be to walk about without their clothes4 ,on special occasions1 however1 particularly striking colours are put on--for instance1 by the ,australians when about to dance a corroboree1 and ,professor ,moseley#dj has pointed out that they have breast stripes and leg stripes such as those which are seen on ,european uniforms4 ,at first sight these1 as ,professor ,moseley1 indeed1 points out1 would appear to have quite a different origin1 but it will be remembered that when speaking of the ,hussar uniform and the ,dutch skeleton dress 7see pages #ade-f7 it was suggested that the ornamentation might be intended to follow the lines of the chief bones of the body1 and it is possible that the same idea may have underlain the painting carried out by savages4 ,in this case what in one instance was effected by paint was in the other done by means of trimmings4 ,paint plays a great part in savage warfare1 and no doubt the intention very often was to terrify the adversary4 ,it is apparently this idea which actuated the old inhabitants of this country1 who1 as ,csar says1 stained themselves with woad in order to be of horrider aspect in battle2 but ,dr4 ,tylor has pointed out the error into which many historians have fallen through considering as savages races who1 while having attained to considerable civilization1 still kept up the practice of colouring their bodies in time of war4 ,to the instances which we have mentioned of modern races staining themselves1 we may add that of the ,hindu women in ,india1 who colour their teeth black and paint their feet scarlet4 ,japanese women blacken their teeth upon marriage4 ,in certain ,japanese plays the actors have bright streaks of red paint made on their faces1 usually on each side of the eyes 7see ,plate ,x1 ,figure ,b74 ,professor ,moseley#da records that the same form of painting is to be seen in the case of ,japanese children on festive occasions1 for after they have been elaborately dressed by their parents they are further adorned with one or two transverse and narrow streaks of bright red paint1 leading outwards from the outer corners of their eyes1 or placed near to that position4 ,the style is the same as that which survives in the case of adults on the stage4 ,professor ,moseley brings forward a further case showing that such a form of painting possibly existed in ancient times in ,china4 ,when a man of distinction died in ,china in former times1 a certain number of servants were sacrificed at his burial4 ,now1 figures made of pasteboard and paper1 about three feet or so high1 are burnt instead at the funeral service in small furnaces provided for the purpose in the temples1 together with cartloads of similar pasteboard gifts which are sent by the survivors for the use of the dead in the next world4 ,earthenware figures were similarly buried with great men in old times in ,japan1 and we may compare with these customs that of the ,egyptians who buried models of servants1 as mentioned on page #bfh1 in the graves of their dead4 ,the pasteboard heads of these funeral servants and retainers are painted with streaks1 some of which are put on in almost exactly the same style1 at the angles of the eyes1 as those of modern ,japanese actors4 ,it seems a fair conjecture that the streaks on these heads are a direct survival of an actual former savage form of painting which was once in vogue in ,china1 and probably used to make fighting men hideous4 ,it is well known that primitive customs survive in connection with funerals all over the world with extreme tenacity4 ,the numerous interesting survivals existing in the case of ,english funerals are familiar4 ,we give a figure taken from the head of a ,chinese servant1 which ,professor ,moseley bought at a manufactory of funeral properties in ,hong ,kong4 7,see ,plate ,x1 ,figure ,c47 ,with regard to the ordinary use of paint by women in ,china and ,japan1 ,professor ,moseley points out that it is entirely different in principle from that in vogue in ,europe4 ,he says3 ,the use of paint as an ornament in ,china and ,japan seems to me to be of considerable interest4 ,in both countries the women regularly paint their faces when in full dress1 of which the paint is a necessary part4 ,the paint is not put on with any idea of simulating a beauty of complexion1 which might be present naturally1 or which has been lost by age4 ,the painted face is utterly unlike the appearance of any natural beauty4 ,an even layer of white is put on over the whole face and neck1 with the exception1 in ,japan1 of two or three angular points of natural brown skin1 which are left bare at the back of the neck as a contrast4 ,after the face is whitened1 a dab of red is rubbed in on the cheeks1 below each eye4 ,the lips are then coloured pink with magenta1 and in ,japan this colour is put on so thickly that it ceases to appear red1 but takes on the iridescent metallic green tint of the crystallized aniline colour4 ,in modern ,japanese picture books1 the lips of girls may sometimes be seen to be represented thus green4 ,i suppose the idea is that such application of paint shows a meritorious disregard for expense4 ,it is curious that the use of aniline colour should have so rapidly spread in ,china and ,japan4 ,in ,china1 at least1 such was not to be expected2 but it seems to have supplanted the old rouge1 and it is sold spread on folding cards1 with ,chinese characters on them1 at ,canton and in ,japan4 ,this form of painting the face seems to be exactly of the same nature as savage painting4 ,the likeness of this painting to that of our clowns is of course quite obvious4 ,sometimes the painting of the body has a practical advantage4 ,the ,andaman ,islanders plaster themselves with a mixture of lard and coloured earth1 which protects their skin from the heat and mosquitoes2 but1 as ,dr4 ,tylor points out1 they go off into love of display when they proceed to draw lines on the paint with their fingers1 or when a dandy will colour one side of his face red and the other olive-green1 and make an ornamental border-line where the two colours meet down his chest and abdomen4 ,fashions in paint were quite as slavishly followed as any other1 and1 as we see1 have died hard4 ,it is not a very far cry from painting to tattooing4 ,of savages1 ,thophile ,gautier has said that1 having no clothes to embroider1 they embroider themselves4 ,scar tattooing is connected with various rites such as are followed when a brave arrives at manhood1 and certainly tattooing serves to indicate the family or tribe to which the ornamented person belongs4 ,there is no doubt1 however1 that the intention of much tattooing is to increase individual beauty4 ,excellent examples of this are to be found in the case of the ,maoris1 whose faces were most elaborately covered with designs4 ,we are kindly permitted to reproduce some of the drawings which ,general ,robley has made from specimens in his magnificent collection 7see ,plate ,x1 ,figure ,d74 ,the practice now1 however1 is dying out4 ,of the ,formosans it is said that their skins are covered with flower patterns until they look like damask4 ,tattooing was practised by the old inhabitants of this country1 by the ,jews and the earliest ,egyptians3 it is still carried on in modern ,egypt1 chiefly on the chin1 on the back of the hands1 the arms and feet1 the middle of the bosom1 and the forehead4 ,it survives principally in the case of the women of the lower classes and in the country4 ,among ,european sailors and among the lower classes1 and even occasionally those up in high social scale1 we find tattooing carried on1 though the original idea of ornamentation is lost when the decoration is covered by clothing4 ,we have seen occasionally at shows--such as that organized by ,barnum--white people who have been tattooed to a very great extent1 and even in the case of ,europeans the patterns tend to take off the bare look even of the white skin4 ,no doubt the desire to make permanent such ornamentation as that obtained by painting1 led to the introduction of tattooing1 and just as some marks suggest that they are copied from amulets1 so some amulets show traces of having been derived from tattoo patterns4 ,mr4 ,lovett has pointed out to us that possibly the floral designs worked on the backs of the bodices of the women of ,marken1 in ,holland1 may have originated from tattooing1 but no doubt careful research would show some other and undoubted instances4 ,the painting of the face1 which is intended to heighten its beauty and hide the ravages of time1 is quite another matter4 ,it survives to the present day1 but luckily it is much less common in this country than it was a few years ago4 ,it does not1 however1 seem to have been at all in vogue in ,england until the ,middle ,ages1 though cosmetics and false complexions were made use of by ladies in ,roman times4 ,fairholt#db quotes from an old ,french poem of the thirteenth century which describes the wares of a mercer who declares1 ,i have cotton with which they rouge1 and whitening with which they whiten themselves4 ,the cotton took the place of the hare's foot that is now used in making up1 to rub colour on the cheeks4 ,at this point we might consider patches1 the use of which made it possible to ornament the skin with patterns that could be removed at will4 ,these patches came into fashion in ,charles ,i's reign1 but were banned by the ,puritans4 ,as soon1 however1 as ,charles ,,ii came into his own again1 they made their appearance once more1 and took various fantastic shapes3 owls1 rings1 crescents1 and crowns2 a coach and horses was particularly fashionable1 and in the time of ,queen ,anne it was possible to tell the political views of fashionable ladies by their faces and their fans4 ,party feeling ran very high at this time1 and those who were neutral wore patches on both cheeks1 a ,whig lady on the right side only1 while a ,high ,church ,tory dame only adorned the left1 and she wore suspended from her wrist a fan on which was depicted a scene from the trial of ,dr4 ,sacheverell at ,westminster ,hall4 ,red and white paint was at the same time universally employed by women of fashion1 who1 as ,miss ,helen ,gordon#dc says1 had perforce to keep their lovers at a respectful distance1 lest a kiss snatched by a forward one might transfer the complexion of the mistress to the admirer4 ,the untimely decease of more than one famous beauty was attributed to the paint with which she besmeared her countenance1 a notable instance being the death of ,lady ,coventry1 whose husband had been wont to chase her round the dinner-table in his determined efforts to remove the deleterious compound from her face with his serviette4 ,according to ,walpole1 ,lady ,mary ,wortley ,montagu used the cheapest white paint obtainable1 and left it so long on her skin that it had literally to be scraped off4 ,it may be inferred that these fine ladies rarely washed2 but the age was careless in that respect1 personal cleanliness at a discount1 and the essence pot consequently in great demand4 ,we spoke just now of fans1 which can1 perhaps1 be considered an article of dress as they are very often fastened to the person4 ,there seems no doubt but that at first fans did not close1 and were made of feathers like those still in use in the ,east from whence they are derived4 ,probably in the beginning1 leaves were used as fans1 and palm-leaf fans are still to be seen4 ,fans were in general use in the sixteenth century1 and the folding one appeared in the next4 ,sometimes1 as at the end of the eighteenth century1 large green fans1 called sunshades1 were used out of doors in the same way as a modern parasol now is4 ,there is another use of the fan still to be noted in ,china1 namely1 for blowing up a fire1 and from this we no doubt get the expression of fanning the flame4 ,painting apparently was not only practised by women1 for male courtiers at the end of the sixteenth century occasionally coloured their faces4 ,if we are to believe some of the writers in the newspapers of to-day1 men of leisure are not a whit better nor less foolish now4 ,of masks as an ordinary everyday addition to costume we have no survivals1 except in connection with some balls and an occasional burglary2 but masks such as we see on the #eth of ,november will remind us1 like the face of the clown1 of primitive face-painting1 and also of the many curious head-dresses and masks which savages wear at certain ceremonies and dances4 ,it is easy to produce grotesque effects by means of masks1 and the discomfort that would arise from the paint is thereby avoided4 ,the practice of wearing masks1 and indeed dominoes1 by private individuals came from ,venice4 ,in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries masks made of black satin and velvet often formed part of the toilet of society ladies4 ,at one period the wearing of them was restricted to the times of carnivals2 at another1 the nobility alone were allowed to use them1 and now we only see masks at fancy-dress balls4 ,of the unwritten laws that rule the wearing of the mask1 ,mrs4 ,aria says#dd3 ,whether worn privately or in public1 its disguise has at all times and in all countries been respected as inviolably sacred4 ,to the masked the greatest extravagance of language and gesture is permitted4 ,he is allowed to indulge in acrid personalities and proclaim scathing truths1 which1 even if addressed to the monarch himself1 go unrebuked4 ,to strike a mask is a serious offence1 while in no class of society1 however degraded1 would any one dare to unmask a woman4 ,yet another prerogative entitles the masked to invite any woman present1 whether masked or not1 to dance with him1 etiquette decreeing that the queen of the land may not claim exemption from this rule4 ,dear to romance is the masked highwayman1 who flourished until the advent of railways robbed him of his occupation2 and a grim figure is ever the masked headsman4 ,,xxix ,,stage ,,costumes ,,the ,,harlequin1 ,,pantaloon1 ,,columbine1 ,,and ,,acrobat ,while ,punch has left the stage and is now a puppet1 some of his coadjutors are with us1 for the harlequinade is still introduced into many pantomimes at ,christmas1 and special plays have been written in which these characters appear4 ,the harlequin1 who gives his name to what is now an interlude1 was some thousand or two years back one of the important personages in the old ,italian comedy which gave us ,punch1 and which we have already mentioned in a previous chapter4 ,harlequin was versatile and many-sided1 and he still keeps up his slap-dash character4 ,it is true that harlequin does not now speak1 any more than does the columbine1 and we may trace the evolution of the ,italian ,mimi1 or buffoons1 into the ,pantomimi1 who were tragic actors4 ,they1 by means of certain well-understood signs and gestures1 were able to play tragedies in the open air under conditions which would have prevented their voices from being heard4 ,in some theatres also the actors were not allowed by the authorities to speak4 ,originally the harlequin was a mime4 ,he had a shaven head1 a sooty face--for the mimi blackened their faces like our modern niggers--he had flat1 unshod feet and a patched coat of many colours which he derived from the ancient peasants of ,italy4 ,some have seen in the wand of the harlequin a descendant of the rod of ,mercury1 and have sought for a prototype of the modern pantomime in pagan mysteries4 ,in ,england1 however1 we have turned the harlequin into a magician1 and his wand is perhaps the gilt wooden sword which belonged to the clown or fool all the world over4 ,now also we have the character in what ,mr4 ,calthrop terms his tight-fitting lizard-skin of flashing golden colours1 for the patches on his rags have now given place to a symmetrical pattern 7see ,figure #aeh74 ,there have been many celebrated harlequins who have devoted their lives to the development of this character1 and there is an interesting case which ,disraeli#de gives in his ,curiosities of ,literature1 in which1 as part of a quit-rent or feudal tenure--whenever the ,abbot of ,figac entered this town--the ,lord of ,montbron1 dressed in a harlequin's coat1 with one of his legs bare1 has to lead the prelate's horse by its bridle to the abbey4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aeh4--,the dress of a modern harlequin4 ,in the clown and the pantaloon we still have the dress of ,elizabethan times 7see ,figures #aeg and #aei74 ,the paint on the former1 as we have seen1 will carry us back to times of remote antiquity4 ,his hat is of a shape well known in early ,english history1 and he himself is ,english all through4 ,the pantaloon1 again1 is ,italian4 ,both he and his ,venetian breeches get their names from ,st4 ,pantaleone1 one of the patron saints of ,venice4 ,pantaleone was by no means an uncommon patronymic in that place4 ,in order to reconcile the statements that the dress of the pantaloon is ,elizabethan and his nether garments are ,venetian1 which might appear to be mutually contradictory1 it must be pointed out that the ,venetian breeches had been introduced in the days of earlier ,tudors1 and were still in vogue when ,elizabeth was on the throne4 ,the pantaloon's red and green colours and his red heels are also1 as we have indicated1 ,elizabethan4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aei4--;,a pantaloon1 showing an ,elizabethan costume of which ,venetian breeches form part4 ,the columbine1 who1 like the harlequin1 does not speak1 and so keeps up the pantomime character1 wears the ballet dress of early ,victorian times4 ,originally she was a female harlequin1 or harlequinne1 and her dress of spangles is still sometimes used in fancy-dress dances4 ,of the other characters1 who once assisted those that we have described1 we have none left4 ,scaramouch persisted for some time1 and was1 like the harlequin and columbine1 a pantomimist4 ,he has gone even from ,punch and ,judy1 though the doctor still remains4 ,though not strictly a theatrical performer1 but seen in the circus1 the music-hall1 and still also as a wandering mountebank1 we have the acrobat4 ,his dress is simple and eminently suitable for the work which he has to do2 it consists of a vest1 of very short trunk hose or breeches1 and long ,florentine hose1 or1 as we now call them1 tights4 ,though such a costume was worn in the reigns of the early ,tudors1 in detail the breeches are very much like those which were worn by ,lord ,darnley1 the husband of ,mary ,queen of ,scots4 ,doubtless also in the tights which are so familiar on the stage we have a survival similar to that seen in the acrobat1 the clown1 and the knights of the older orders4 ,,xxx ,,nightdress ,,bands ,,on ,,nightgowns--,,nightcaps--,,night ,,attire ,,worn ,,in ,,the ,,street ,going to bed can hardly be called a ceremony2 but the dress in which the bulk of humanity now sleeps can claim to be a special one4 ,there are1 of course1 many people1 who are not mere casual tramps1 who sleep in their everyday clothes4 ,drovers who have to go to out-of-the-way places with cattle1 where they can never be sure of getting a lodging1 will sleep possibly after merely removing their outer coat1 and it stands to reason that men engaged in this business can hardly be bothered to carry luggage with them4 ,any survivals that we may have to deal with in the case of our airiest dresses will not take us very far back into history1 because our ancestors1 from all accounts1 went to an extreme which is the opposite to that which we have just been mentioning1 and instead of keeping on all their clothes at night1 they took them all off and put on no others4 ,mr4 ,calthrop#df graphically describes a scene which he supposes to be taking place in the reign of ,william ,rufus4 ,a lady is disturbed while getting ready for bed by a cry of sanctuary1 and watches from her window until the fugitive is let into the church by the monks4 ,in concluding his story1 ,mr4 ,calthrop says1 ,the night is cold4 ,the lady pulls a curtain across the window1 and then1 stripping herself of her chemise1 she gets into bed4 ,a man's nightshirt is severe in cut like that which he wears in the day1 and the sides are slit up in both garments as they are in the dalmatic and the tunics worn by the ,anglo-,saxons1 which were like a day shirt1 longer behind than in front4 ,a survival of the latter as an outer garment is to be seen in the short smocks worn by labourers who dig drains and do similar work4 ,the lady's nightgown may be elegantly ornamented with lace in the same way as are the linen garments which she wears in the daytime2 but very often we find a large collar edged with lace1 which recalls the falling band which we have had so often to mention4 7,see ,figure #afj47 ,to a great extent sleeping suits of a coat and trousers1 which are known by the name of pyjamas1 have taken the place of the man's nightshirt4 ,these have the merit of making a man look more presentable if called up on an emergency4 ,we shall see1 if we contrast male and female fashions1 that it has always been customary for the costume of women to follow that of men1 though most ladies draw the line at adopting trousers4 ,we have heard1 however1 of one young lady at least who does by night what she will not do by day1 for she has given up her nightgown in favour of pyjamas4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afj4--,the bands that survive on a lady's nightdress4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afa4--;,a woman's nightcap1 still worn in ,wiltshire4 ,here and there we find that nightcaps are still worn4 ,that belonging to an old lady1 which we figure 7see ,figure #afa71 came from the village of ,bishopstone in ,wiltshire1 where no fewer than twelve old ladies1 all of them over eighty1 still wear such a head-dress at night4 ,nightcaps were worn by men in the time of the ,tudors1 and that of ,queen ,elizabeth1 as is shown by the following extract from a bill of #aedg3 ,pd4 for two nyght caps of vellvet for them1 #hs4 #j;d4#dg ,they were very elaborately embroidered at this time1 and in ,mary's reign were mentioned in a sumptuary law4 ,old men still wear nightcaps1 and the one we figure was used until lately at ,south ,stoke in ,oxfordshire4 ,it is of the familiar style that we associate with such a head-dress1 and has a tassel on the top4 7,see ,figure #afb47 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afb4--;,a man's nightcap1 from ,oxfordshire4 ,in the time of ,queen ,anne ladies wore their nightdresses1 or night-rails as they were called1 in the streets1 and the fashion seems to have been in vogue at later times1 though every means were taken to try and abolish it4 ,it was not until a murderess was persuaded to appear at her execution in a bedgown that the fad was relinquished4 ,,xxxi ,,the ,,dress ,,of ,,animals ,,natural ,,representatives ,,of ,,clothes--,,horse ,,trappings--,,amulets ,,on ,,harness--,,dogs' ,,disguises--,,fashions ,,in ,,the ,,form ,,of ,,animals ,here and there in the animal kingdom we find that creatures protect themselves from injury by building up cases and coverings from extraneous materials1 and these may very well be compared with the armour and clothes of mankind4 ,protection may be gained by merely securing something ready made to take the place of a coat1 as is done in the case of the hermit-crab or soldier1 which covers itself with the shell of some dead mollusc4 ,the caddis worm1 or larva of the caddis fly1 builds its home of sticks and stones or twigs1 and thereby not only preserves its soft body from injury1 but also harmonizes with its surroundings1 in the same way as does the soldier on active service in time of war4 ,to gain protection1 also1 some molluscs when building their shells introduce stones and other shells and corals into the edifice1 so that they become indistinguishable from the sea-bottom on which they lie4 ,many caterpillars cover themselves with bits of leaves1 and even with the help of silk make spiral shells that might easily be mistaken for those of snails4 ,the silk also1 from which many of our gay clothes are made1 is spun by the silkworm1 which1 like the larva of many moths1 produces it in order to protect the chrysalis while it rests4 ,we are occupied here1 however1 with the coverings of animals that they owe to man1 and first and foremost of those creatures which have come in for his polite attentions is the horse4 ,we may recall the armour by which the chargers of the old knights were protected1 and the trappings or emblazoned coverings that were put over this in the same way as the surcoat was made to cover the armour of the knights4 7,see ,figure #hd47 ,the trappings were often made of coloured satin1 and were embroidered with gold and silver1 and at the exhibition held by the ,burlington ,fine ,arts ,society in #aije a chasuble of red velvet was shown1 embroidered with the arms of ,england in gold1 which was apparently made from a horse-trapper of the fourteenth century4 ,figure #hd well shows how the horses carried the armorial bearings of their masters4 ,in the ostrich-feather ornaments and the velvet trappings of modern funeral horses1 we still have some remnants of the days of chivalry4 ,to-day horse clothing1 though not intended to be of an ornamental character1 we should imagine1 is still often decorated with a monogram of the horse's owner4 ,perhaps one of the most interesting survivals in connection with horses is to be found in the brasses which decorate those used for carts and waggons4 ,dr4 ,plowright#dh has shown that many of these ornaments1 which are really amulets put on to the harness with a view to protecting the horses against the evil eye1 are of ,moorish origin4 ,he contrasts their style with the ornamental details shown in the ,alhambra1 and he figures a number which take the form of a crescent1 or a crescent enclosing an eight-rayed star1 and others in which the ornament shows eyes and eyebrows conventionalized4 ,in other cases we get the fleur-de-lys treated in an arabesque way1 the escallop shell and the mystic interlaced triangles 7which were considered the talisman of talismans1 and are known as the seal of ,solomon or the shield of ,david71 with a crescent in the centre4 ,miss ,lina ,eckenstein#di figures many other horse brasses which can be compared with those worn by ,roman cart-horses4 ,among them is the crescent1 which was also worn by women carved in ivory1 and by certain senators as ornaments on their shoes4 ,the crescent is made from a thin plate of metal1 and is worn by children on the west coast of ,india1 with the points upwards1 as a protection against the evil eye1 and gold ornaments of similar shape are among those which were worn in ancient ,peru4 ,the moon1 from times of remote antiquity1 has been represented by a ring for the full moon and a half-ring or sickle for the crescent4 ,miss ,eckenstein does not1 however1 carry the origin of the horse amulets back to the stone stage of civilization1 but she thinks that the crescent represents two boars' tusks joined together by a thong1 and the horse-amulet now worn in ,italy shows the thinness and sharpness of curve that would be evident in one which was made out of boars' tusks4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afc4--;,an ,english horse amulet in the form of a crescent4 ,the flat places near the tips of the horns are evidence that the form is derived from two boars' tusks4 ,we may point out that in some ,english crescents the hollows which one tusk makes by wearing against its fellow are represented by little flat places on the horns of the crescent near their tips4 7,see ,figure #afc47 ,the brasses seen in ,england to-day are worn on the face-plate1 breast-plate1 and martingale4 ,on grand occasions1 such as ,may ,day celebrations1 and the cart-horse parade of ,whit ,monday1 brasses are specially put on1 though there is a tendency now for them to be stamped out of thin metal instead of being cast1 with the result that they soon wear out4 ,german horses wear the crescent on a strap which dangles below the right ear4 ,the ,english crescent from harness will be found to match those which are represented on the horses on ,trajan's column and other monuments4 ,the same design is to be seen also on the harness of camels and elephants4 ,the most important symbol besides the moon is that of the sun1 which is worn on the top of the head between the ears4 ,heraldic brasses are not uncommon1 and the heart-shaped amulet is also seen2 it is possible1 too1 that this form may be connected with that of the flint arrows1 which we have already mentioned as being worn as amulets4 ,in ,egypt1 an amulet hung on a cow is said to protect the woman who owns it1 and ,miss ,eckenstein suggests a similar origin in the case of the heart worn by horses4 ,a brass showing a horse rampant1 came from the estate of the ,duke of ,norfolk at ,arundel1 and it will be seen on looking at the arms of the nobleman in question that this device forms one of the supporters of his shield4 ,in prehistoric ,egypt the slate palettes on which malachite was ground for face painting were often in the form of two birds1 with their bodies put back to back1 and their heads fully shown1 and when this form degenerates it becomes a kind of heart-shaped shield4 ,professor ,petrie has pointed out that when this decoration is used1 as on coffins and elsewhere1 it is often thought to be merely a shield4 ,possibly the heart-shaped amulet may have some connection with this4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afd4--;,an ,english horse amulet showing both the heart and the sun4 ,an amulet found by ,professor ,vellucci in ,umbria consisted of an arrow-head sewn upon a piece of scarlet cloth1 which was of a heart shape1 and was intended doubtless to emphasize the heart significance4 ,another horse amulet1 obtained by ,miss ,eckenstein from ,sicily1 also consists of a piece of scarlet cloth cut into the shape of a heart and decorated with tinsel4 ,an ,english horse brass seen in ,figure #afd shows both the heart and the sun4 ,while on the subject of horses1 one might allude to the wisps of straw which are twisted in the mane and tail of cart-horses when they are for sale at markets and fairs4 ,horses were sacrificed in the old days2 and as the slaying of domestic animals was supposed to secure fruitfulness1 the horse became identified as a corn spirit1 and the killing of horses formed a necessary incident of the harvest4 ,the deity ,demeter took upon himself the semblance of a mare1 and the word mare is applied in the ,midlands to the last uncut ears of corn1 at which the sickles are thrown in order to bring them down4 ,it is possible that the wisps of straw worn by horses are connected with these ideas4 ,a very curious and interesting custom is represented on the trappings of the horses ridden by the officers of the #ajth ,hussars4 ,these trappings are ornamented on full-dress occasions with cowry shells2 and to find a parallel to this we have to go to the ,east1 where the head-stalls of the camels and mules are covered with the shells1 while round their necks and those of donkeys there may hang an ornament or bell on a band which is similarly decorated4 ,it will be noted that there is a pendant from the head of the ,hussar horse which resembles that of the mule of the ,holy ,land4 ,there is no doubt but that originally these ornaments were really amulets1 and it is said that they are a survival of ancient phallic worship4 7,see ,figures #afe-g47 ,cowry shells were once generally used by the ,hussars1 and were revived in the case of the #ajth ,hussars in connection with service in ,india4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afe4--,the cowry-shell ornaments on the head of an officer's charger of the #ajth ,hussars4 ,the pendant recalls that on mules in ,palestine4 ,toby1 as we have seen1 is decorated with an ,elizabethan ruff1 but the wearing of collars and bells by pet animals is a remnant of a very old custom1 and on early medival brasses in this country1 dogs are often seen decorated with collars--sometimes bearing their actual names--and with bells4 ,now the wearing of a collar is enforced by law as a means of identification4 ,all dogs found without collars may be considered as strays1 and the regulation followed1 as is well known1 upon the muzzling order by which hydrophobia was practically stamped out4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aff4--;,cowry shells on an ,eastern mule1 hanging like the pendant of the #ajth ,hussars4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afg4--;,cowry shells on the head-stall of a camel from ,palestine4 ,mr4 ,c4 ,j4 ,cornish#ej once considered the subject of animals' clothes1 and made some interesting remarks on horses' hats and sun-bonnets4 ,he described the following sight1 met with in ,kensington ,gore3 ,first came a costermonger with his horse duly hatted and the hat trimmed with ribbon2 next came a lady wearing a hat1 in a victoria4 ,her horse also had a hat1 and both hats had pink flowers in them4 ,in ,holland1 cows wear rain-proof jackets all the winter1 and coats for show cattle are quite the fashion in ,england4 ,mr4 ,cornish says that a really smart ,jersey cow would not like to be seen at a show without her luggage--a chest containing1 not only her sleeping jacket1 but her brushes and combs1 cosmetics and horn protectors4 ,she puts on1 or has put on1 a smarter jacket in the daytime if she has to stand in a draughty place2 if she is not sleeping out it does not so much matter4 ,there are many ladies who would almost go without a jacket themselves rather than see their best animals go to a show without proper clothes4 ,in the ,north lambs are provided with waterproof coats when going on to the hills4 ,these garments are called brats1 and the name has been transferred not only to the young sheep themselves1 but also to human babies4 ,we are all familiar with the clothes which monkeys wear when they go about with organs1 and the big apes which are exhibited at shows are sometimes even clothed in the dress suit of conventionality4 ,johanna1 the chimpanzee which was at ,barnum's exhibition1 looked very effective in her petticoats1 and the penguins at the ,zoo1 when performing tricks1 wear coats1 while animal actors are often dressed to suit their parts4 ,there is one case at least in which animals are disguised by dressing them up4 ,there was a duck-decoy dog which was known to ,mr4 ,cornish1 which1 in the first instance1 grew as much like a fox as it was possible for a dog to be4 ,this proved exceedingly attractive to the ducks1 which seem to have an irresistible impulse to swim after a fox in order to see what he is about4 ,in a short time1 however1 they get used to a particular dog1 and their curiosity dies away4 ,then the dog's master supplies him with a disguise in the shape of a jacket made of sheepskin4 ,furthermore1 when this palls a rough woollen jacket of a black colour is brought into requisition1 and the dog apparently knows the meaning of the whole performance4 ,in other cases the disguise of a decoy dog takes the shape of a foxskin with its brush4 ,racing dogs1 prize dogs1 and pet dogs also have their coats1 and we have heard even of bracelets for poodles1 while there are fashions which regulate the way in which the hair of these dogs should be cut4 ,just as men and women deform themselves1 so they mutilate their animals by the clipping of their ears and the shortening of their tails--practices which are worse than the dubbing of the birds' combs in the old days of cock-fighting1 for the infliction of one slight injury probably prevented many4 ,this deforming of animals is a savage custom1 for ,hottentots twist the horns of their cattle and sheep1 while a number of horns are produced in ,africa by splitting the budding horns of the young animals4 ,though not obviously causing any deformity1 there is one fashion which1 though condemned by most people1 is still followed by otherwise cultured and humane people4 ,we refer to the bearing-rein with which horses' heads are kept in unnatural1 uncomfortable1 and constrained positions4 ,if1 however1 we consider animal fashions as a whole1 and bring under discussion the colours and peculiarities of the fur or feathers that cover their bodies1 we shall find that men from quite early times have amused themselves with producing all manner of curious and striking appearances4 ,the fact is1 that the ordinary conditions and dangers of life in the open1 which would soon eliminate any creatures out of harmony with their surroundings1 do not act in the case of domesticated animals very much2 and this has been a help4 ,we have1 therefore1 white rats1 piebald mice1 gold fishes--some even with several tails--yellow canaries1 frizzled bantams1 hairless dogs1 hornless cattle1 booted bantams1 and top-knotted fowls1 as well as hosts of patterns and forms that are hardly to be numbered4 ,there is an adage that like produces like1 but the student of heredity has recently become aware of the fact that animals of a certain colour may not always produce offspring which resemble them in this respect2 but that in order to get the tint required for show purposes1 parents of some particular but unfashionable colour should be chosen4 ,the colour of animals is taken into consideration in connection with ceremonies4 ,white elephants have to be treated as if they were gods1 and proverbially cost much to keep4 ,black horses are usually used at funerals2 white or grey horses1 which are much decorated with the badges and insignia of the regiments1 carry the kettledrums of the cavalry4 ,the ,scots ,greys take their name from their horses1 which are all grey1 like those with which1 it is said1 they were supplied by ,william ,,iii in ,flanders4 ,spotted ,dalmatian hounds are those which are chosen to run by the side of carriages1 while circus horses exhibit much variety of colouring4 ,whips are perhaps a little beside the subject1 though there are fashions with regard to them4 ,not long ago it was customary for the whip stick in connection with a smart turn-out to have a bend in it4 ,in various parts of the ,east the camel driver carries in a graceful manner a red forked stick1 and one of this form was used as a sceptre in ancient ,egypt from #ejjj ,b4,c4 downwards1 so that we meet with a very interesting1 if humble1 survival of what was once a royal ornament4 ,,xxxii ,,colour ,,importance ,,of ,,colour--,,instinctive ,,love ,,of ,,bright ,,hues--,,desirability ,,of ,,coloured ,,clothes ,,and ,,gay ,,scenes--,,colour ,,and ,,complexion ,it has been apparent throughout this book1 as it is in everyday life1 that colour plays a tremendous part4 ,not only has it often a great significance1 but its presence or absence must also have a considerable effect upon the minds of the people at large4 ,one cannot help thinking that if women were to dress as a whole in the same quiet1 or let us say solemn1 tints which are characteristic of men in their everyday life1 how much we should lose4 ,yet that there is a craving for bright colours is shown in every direction1 and that they are attractive to those who do not themselves have an opportunity of wearing them is also obvious4 ,the ,high ,church clergy in this country make use of the coloured vestments that had developed in the ,roman ,catholic ,church previous to the ,reformation1 and which have been proclaimed illegal4 ,the new universities vie with the older seats of learning in the colours which they choose for gowns and hoods4 ,it is merely a question of expense which prevents the fancy-dress dance from being more common than it is4 ,the pageants which have been held in various parts of this country1 and the profits which have been made in many cases1 bear out what we have said4 ,men1 as shown by the red coats which they don for hunting and golfing1 the colours in which they ride steeplechases or play hockey1 or the dresses in which they bathe1 seek as far as possible during their leisure hour pursuits to go back to bright array4 ,plays also are popular which are cast in the times when picturesque attire flourished or which borrow it from ,oriental countries4 ,the significance of colour is exceedingly far reaching4 ,the ordinary liveries of ,royalty in this country are red2 the red shirt of the followers of ,garibaldi1 the red cap of ,liberty in the ,french ,revolution1 the red rose of ,lancaster1 call to mind great struggles4 ,the platelayer1 it is said1 is instructed to wear a red tie so that on emergency it may be used as a danger signal4 ,a red ribbon worn in the hair of a girl in some places on the ,continent shows that she is engaged to be married1 and it is with a red rag that the chulos in the bull fight enrage the bull4 ,the term born in the purple alludes to this colour having been that adopted by emperors and kings in the past4 ,yellow is a favourite colour with gipsies2 the women wear yellow kerchiefs and yellow beads1 while the men favour yellow neckties4 ,mr4 ,yoxall#ea points out that this colour was worn by medival ,jews1 and had a contemptuous or degrading significance4 ,we have seen that yellow has been chosen as a mourning colour in ,oriental countries1 and possibly it was adopted on some particular occasion by gipsies like the black worms that we have mentioned in the lace of military uniforms1 and has never been entirely left off since4 ,among savages1 yellow comes next in popularity to red1 and it is said that young children are also fond of red1 but are inclined to prefer yellow4 ,the latter colour is not so stimulating as red1 and this is well shown by the fact that the red light used in photographic works was found to cause so much mental irritation on the part of the workers that it has been abandoned in many cases in favour of orange4 ,as regards the preference of older persons1 it has been found that schoolgirls are more precocious than boys in the discrimination of colours1 and never prefer orange to any other colour1 yet they choose yellow rather than green1 and usually than violet1 but never prefer it to red or blue4 ,as age goes on1 male students shift their liking towards the violet end of the spectrum which is the favourite one with men1 while women keep to the red4 ,blue is associated in this country with the boat race held between representatives of the two old ,universities of ,oxford and ,cambridge1 and blue is usually taken to represent the ,liberal side in political elections4 ,the blue blouse of the butcher is characteristic1 and1 as we have found1 is a still better instance of the survival of a trade costume than that seen in the case of servants4 ,the colour1 it is said1 was chosen1 as blood stains are not so noticeable upon it as upon other tints4 ,a black habit is that which the clergy adopt when not engaged in religious duties1 while white has for centuries been used by them when conducting services4 ,the same two colours1 if we can so call them1 are to be found in mourning1 and to them a man is now restricted when he appears in ordinary ,court or evening dress4 ,the use of colour merely as a distinguishing mark without any deeper origin or special significance is so general that we shall touch upon it1 and recall one or two instances with which we have previously met4 ,the gorgeous dresses of the ,masons and the bright green scarfs of their humbler brethren1 the ,foresters1 are further evidences of the love which civilized man still retains of dressing himself up4 ,it is only but little less strongly developed apparently in him than it is in his children and in savage people4 ,we pointed out that red1 although a special character of the ,british ,army1 is very far from being the universal colour of the uniform4 ,we have had to deal with blue1 buff1 white1 and black among the other colours that are to be seen adorning the bodies of our soldiers4 ,the colours of heraldry no longer appear on our persons1 except when we wear favours such as ribbons of red1 white1 and blue that come from national flags1 and here we may recall that the standards of our regiments are called their colours1 and illustrate not only regimental but national history4 ,the part that colour plays in the hoods and gowns of academical dress has on more than one occasion occupied our attention4 ,various coloured veils serve to differentiate the sisters of a religious order1 while the ribbons and mantles of the knightly orders serve a similar purpose4 ,it seems a great pity that at the present day the chapters or meetings of these ,orders are seldom if ever held1 and it would surely be interesting and useful1 as well as enlivening1 for certain occasions to be created on which the public might have an opportunity of seeing more of the dresses which have been handed down to our own times4 ,it is true that the ,king has of recent years opened ,parliament in person1 and glimpses may have been had of him in his state robes by a privileged few1 but surely some opportunity should be found of having more pageants which are real and where there is no need for any make-believe4 ,besides having the advantages which we have urged would accrue from the bringing of a little more colour into our lives1 such meetings would also have a practical result1 and be exceedingly good for trade4 ,it is obvious that certain costumes1 particularly the gay peasant dresses of the ,continent1 suit the style1 complexion1 and colouring of those who wear them4 ,in races like our own1 where we have all kinds of stages between the very fair blonde and the very dark brunette1 the question of the choice of colours from an artistic point of view is important4 ,there is also the question of surroundings to be considered1 though nowadays it is not every one who can afford the time1 as the late ,mrs4 ,haweis did1 to visit the rooms in which she was invited to spend an evening1 so that the colours of her costume might be arranged to harmonize with her temporary surroundings4 ,,xxxiii ,,patterns ,,ancient ,,designs--,,checks ,,and ,,tartans--,,parti-,,coloured ,,clothes--,,evolution ,,of ,,ornamentation ,the subject of patterns is a very wide one1 and we shall content ourselves with mentioning a few to show how these have survived4 ,when speaking of studs1 we had occasion to mention the swastika or fylfot1 which is probably the earliest known symbol4 ,it is the forerunner of the cross1 and it occurs on ecclesiastical vestments as well as civil clothes1 and the well-known key pattern was derived from it4 ,on ,plate ,,vii1 ,figure ,f1 it may be seen on the shoulder of the ,romano-,egyptian man1 and its use seems to be almost universal4 ,the pine pattern which we see on shawls is of ,eastern origin1 and it is said that it originally was taken from a map of some rivers in ,cashmere4 ,checks and plaids are among the commonest of our present-day designs1 and the ,gauls and those of our forerunners1 who flourished at the time of ,csar1 wore breeches of chequered patterns4 ,in fact1 the very name of breeches is derived from breac1 which means striped or spotted1 and in ,gaelic also signifies the trout1 which is speckled4 ,usually the ancient breeches showed a number of colours1 in which1 according to ,diodorus1 red predominated4 ,queen ,boadicea wore a tunic apparently of plaid1 the colours of which had a mixture of blue1 red1 and yellow4 ,the real shepherd's plaid of ,scotland is of a plainer character1 being merely black and white1 but it is in the special tartans of the ,scotch clans that we find the system of coloured lines and squares carried to great perfection4 ,these tartans1 as we may judge1 date back to times of which we have no record1 but they have been used continuously in historic times4 ,in the accounts of ,king ,james ,,iii of ,scotland1 in #adga1 there are several entries with regard to money spent on tartans4 ,the tartans1 of course1 were a distinguishing mark of the various ,scottish clans1 but sometimes1 when attempts have been made to identify the patterns1 confusion has arisen owing to the fact that many clans had more than one tartan2 in fact1 there may be the common clan tartan2 that which was worn only by the chief and his heir2 a dress tartan2 a fourth for hunting1 and a fifth for mourning4 ,for instance1 while the dress tartan of the ,mac,phersons consists chiefly of black and white1 with thin lines of red and yellow1 the hunting tartan of the same clan is black and buff1 with lines of blue and red4 ,similarly1 in the ,royal ,stuart tartans1 we find that the ordinary ,royal ,stuart has large red squares1 the hunting tartan is mostly green and blue1 while the dress ,stuart has a large amount of white in its composition4 ,there was1 of course1 a wonderful variety in colours1 and it is interesting to note that all the dyes required were obtained from common native plants4 ,in ,england1 after the ,norman ,conquest1 there seems to have been little pattern used up to the time of ,henry ,,ii1 when diaper began to appear4 ,just as damask takes its name from ,damascus1 so diaper originally was derived from ,d',ypres1 meaning of ,ypres1 a town which was noted for rich stuffs and fine linen4 ,in ,edward ,,ii's time pied cloth and parti-coloured silks came into vogue1 while costumes of a parti-coloured character1 which developed in the following reign to such an extent1 were seen for the first time4 ,sometimes the whole dress would be symmetrically divided1 so that half was of one colour and half of another4 ,again1 the clothes would be striped in various directions1 or one would find the right arm and left leg coloured blue1 while the other two limbs were red4 ,we get something of the same kind of ornamentation nowadays1 as already noticed1 in the dress of jockeys and the colours of athletic clubs4 ,in studying decorative patterns1 the way in which some natural object has often become conventionalized is very interesting to trace1 and if this is so in the case of art of civilized people1 it is still more true of savage decoration4 ,our object is not1 however1 to deal with the evolution of ornamentation pure and simple1 though we commend its study to our readers4 ,turning to the ,jews for a moment1 we may recall that part of the adornment of the ,high ,priests consisted of pomegranates and bells4 ,the connection does not seem at all obvious1 and ,mrs4 ,finn has suggested that the bells are probably the flowers of the pomegranate which have been conventionalized4 ,,xxxiv ,,impressions ,,to ,,be ,,gained ,,from ,,dress ,,clues ,,from ,,clothes--,,individuality ,,not ,,disguised ,,by ,,them--,,modern ,,dress ,,of ,,other ,,countries--,,significance ,,of ,,clothes ,if we turn our attention once more to clothes and their effect upon the outsider1 there are questions to consider with regard to what may be judged from dress4 ,first of all1 as to the matter of social status1 it must be confessed that it is very much more difficult nowadays than it was years ago to make any pronouncements from clothes1 though it must be pointed out that there is a way of wearing clothes1 quite irrespective of their kind1 that will help us considerably in making a judgment4 ,the reason for the levelling up or down as the case may be1 is due1 of course1 to the standard of luxury having been raised and the price of materials for clothing having been lowered4 ,as regards the determination of the profession of the wearer from his or her dress1 it must be said that often we remain quite at a loss in the matter4 ,bearing and expression and general action may again afford a clue4 ,characteristic costumes are now rare4 ,we can tell the cleric as a rule1 though some1 especially those who have belonged to some other profession previously1 will not adopt the collarless coat of black1 the choker1 or the white tie4 ,servants' liveries may be left out of consideration here1 but the man that has to do with horses proverbially looks horsey4 ,to the list of uniforms to which we are accustomed there has been added of recent years that of the hospital nurse4 ,the garb of various sisterhoods still catches our eye1 and there are certain points which may help us occasionally in identifying a doctor1 a lawyer1 a schoolmaster1 and an actor4 ,according to a recent article by a detective in one of the daily papers1#eb the characteristics and individuality of a man will show through his clothes1 and the writer alluded to1 suggests the putting of a clergyman into a soldier's or a sailor's uniform1 or again1 the dressing of a valet in his master's clothes4 ,he will look quite different4 ,he will give a fresh character to the clothes1 and you will realize at once that he is a second-hand copy4 ,mr4 ,chevasse says that if you walk down ,oxford ,street1 ,piccadilly1 or through the ,city1 you may pick out the ex-army officer1 in his mufti tweed1 for his instinct for dress is so ingrained that it is easy to recognize him4 ,mr4 ,chevasse would tell the fashionable physician from the following signs4 ,his frock coat1 scrupulously cut1 his silk hat correctly quiet1 which fit in with his sleek manners and the sang-froid of his superior knowledge4 ,the dress dummy is another type--the man with the airs of a peacock1 whose every article of dress is meant to attract attention4 ,of the actor whom one meets in the ,strand1 it is said that the odds and ends which he wears are typical of the parts he plays1 but that his real individual character is not disguised as sometimes he might wish it to be4 ,in similar fashion we are given the points of the modern solicitor1 of whom there are1 we are told1 two classes4 ,the first type is dressed to exhale prosperity1 and to convince the litigant that he is a safe man1 but the character of his waistcoat will tell you more often than not that he robs ,peter to pay ,paul4 ,the dress of other solicitors beams out sincerity1 truth1 reliability2 the cloth is good and plain1 and is well fitted to inspire trust and confidence4 ,at the present time so many visitors from other countries1 who are sojourning here for a while or have come to stay1 are to be seen in our streets1 that it may be of interest to see what the ,editor of the ,tailor and ,cutter#ec has to say upon the subject of their dress1 or so far as that of the men goes4 ,he says that1 as a rule1 in the case of the members of the aristocracy of all nations1 their garments give the impression of having been made in ,london1 and are free from the peculiarities which characterize those of other countries4 ,generally speaking1 however1 it is not difficult to tell the nationality of a man by his clothes4 ,the ,american's garments are usually made two sizes too large for him4 ,the collar of his coat is very narrow1 and the shoulders and back1 on the other hand1 exceedingly wide4 ,his jackets are often extremely long1 his trousers are peg-tops1 finished with raised seams4 ,in some ways the ,german is a modified ,american1 though often there is to be found a seam up the front of his coat from the waist1 as he likes plenty of room about his chest1 of which he makes much4 ,while the ,american1 however1 often has his coat finished in some extraordinary way which he fancies to be original1 there is a lack of personality about the ,german1 and the uniformity of his garments would appear to be the result of his military training4 ,the ,american likes a lounge suit1 and the ,german the same1 or a morning coat1 while the ,frenchman favours the latter or a frock coat1 which he has finished off with as much ornamentation as possible in the way of silk facings1 braided edges1 and fantastic flaps4 ,his garments are close-fitting1 and the waist is emphasized4 ,the ,spaniard is like the ,frenchman with modifications1 for his garments are tasteful and neat1 with few peculiarities4 ,in warm weather he wears no vest1 and his jackets are close-fitting and finished with a low roll4 ,in ,austrian and ,hungarian clothes ,french and ,german ideas seem to be skilfully blended1 while ,italian dress has more of the ,french than of the ,german characters4 ,norwegians and ,danes are like ,englishmen1 though there is perhaps a little more preciseness and stiffness about their clothes4 ,the colonial has no desire for show1 and his tweed lounge suit is cut for comfort and made up for strength4 ,the impressions to be gained from dress that we have hitherto mentioned in this chapter are chiefly those which are unintentionally given to us by their wearers4 ,the significances which it is meant that clothes should bear are still most numerous and important4 ,to-day1 on ordinary occasions1 rank is not shown by any special dress1 which those in high stations themselves wear1 though the case of their servants is different4 ,in earlier times in our history1 especially under the earlier ,tudors1 rank was indicated in civilian dress4 ,now the frock coat worn by ,king and ,peer is considered just as necessary in many businesses1 and is characteristic of the shop-walker4 ,men of assured position can even afford to dress badly1 though the poor man cannot4 ,here and there we have met with survivals of class costumes 7see pages #aej and #cjh71 and to these we may add that of the costermongers1 for in the dress of both men and women there are peculiarities which single them out4 ,in the same way we find remnants here and there of special dresses that are characteristic of trades4 ,the blue blouse of the butcher1 the white clothes of the butterman or man cook1 and the white cap of the latter are cases in point2 and in connection with certain duties and modern manufactures we have special dresses4 ,we might allude to the overalls of furriers1 feather merchants1 and stationers4 ,divers1 sewage men1 and miners have special dresses1 and boiler cleaners have a curious dress of coat and trousers made in one1 which recalls one form of the military tunic used by the ,norman soldiers1 which sometimes ended in closely fitting trousers4 ,it was first drawn on the legs1 and the arms were then put through the sleeves4 ,such combination garments are shown in contemporary drawings1 and it has been questioned whether these were really made in one piece1 but the artist1 though he might not indicate with certainty the openings through which they were put on1 is hardly likely to have left out the lines which would have made clear a division at the waist4 ,at the present time in ,england there are very little differences in the costume of single and married women1 though it was once compulsory for them to dress differently4 ,the remains1 however1 of the custom are to be found in plenty in foreign countries4 ,in many professions rank is indicated by the dress or its ornamentations4 ,in the ,army and ,navy1 the ,church1 the legal profession1 such points are obvious4 ,we have had occasion to deal with academical costume1 and in the knightly orders the same holds good4 ,just as an undergraduate has a stuff gown1 while a graduate may have a silk one1 a ,proctor is given velvet sleeves and the ,chancellor of the ,university an embroidered gown and train1 so1 for instance1 in the order of ,knights of the ,order of ,st4 ,john of ,jerusalem1 the ,knight of ,grace has a stuff gown1 the ,knight of ,justice a silk one1 while the ,grand ,prior is habited in velvet4 ,,xxxv ,,the ,,effect ,,of ,,clothes ,,upon ,,the ,,individual ,,the ,,origin ,,of ,,stays--,,tight ,,lacing ,,no ,,new ,,thing--,,its ,,effects--,,mr4 ,,heather ,,bigg ,,on ,,the ,,need ,,for ,,support--,,the ,,ideal ,,foot--,,skull ,,deformities--,,padding ,we have already seen 7page #aaa7 that the human form may be directly mutilated in connection with the wearing of ornaments and in order to produce scars or tattoo marks which are considered to be embellishments and often in a way take the place of clothes1 in so much as they do away with the appearance of nakedness4 ,now we may consider the distortions which are actually caused by clothes and bandages4 ,there are cases for which1 as a rule1 we have to look outside the confines of ,europe in which special contrivances are worn for a time in order to permanently alter the shape of some part of the body4 ,then1 again1 we meet among the races which claim to be most highly civilized instances which are not one whit less barbaric1 but in which some article of dress is intended to cause or allowed to produce distortions1 which satisfy the dictates of some particular fashion4 ,it may be that an appearance of elegance or smartness is aimed at which may be the natural attribute of some persons and the envy of others1 or a false idea of symmetry may lead to the same thing4 ,the idea of altering bodily conformation is very ancient1 but following our usual plan we will touch1 first of all1 on the modern examples of the custom before tracing the older ones4 ,not very long ago1 and not for the first time in history1 a great many women became imbued with the notion that there was nothing more desirable in this world than a wasp-like waist2 and there are rumours1 not to say signs1 even in the twentieth century1 when it might be supposed that we were getting more sensible1 that a similar madness is again to overtake the gentler sex4 ,now we may discuss the apparatus which has been degraded into carrying out the painful duty of producing an attenuated figure4 ,the name stays indicates exactly the original intention of the clothing to which it is applied2 but unfortunately something more than mere support has been sought after at various times since the classic period to which the beginnings of stays may be traced4 ,the pair of stays which together form the modern corset--sometimes ignorantly and by false analogy supplied with an extra s--is what is now used for purposes of compression4 ,proximately the idea is that of improving the figure1 as it is called1 and ensuring that it can be covered with garments of a fashionable shape4 ,the ultimate results are about as bad as they can be1 and it is not a question of opinion in this case1 for the evil effects can be easily demonstrated4 ,sir ,william ,flower#ed refers to the practice as being one of the most remarkable of all the artificial deformities produced by adherents to a conventional standard1 in defiance of the dictates of ,nature and of reason4 ,he points out that in the process of deforming the skull1 to which we shall allude later1 the latter being a solid case with tolerably uniform walls1 its capacity remains the same whatever alterations may be made in the shape1 but in the case of the body it is quite another matter4 ,it can1 in fact1 be well likened to a cylinder of fixed length which is closed above and below by a framework of bone1 and circular compression must actually diminish the area which has to be occupied by some of the most vital organs4 ,he goes on to say that the framework of the chest is a most admirable and complex arrangement of numerous pieces of solid bone and elastic cartilage joined together in such a manner as to allow of expansion and contraction for the purposes of respiration--expansion and contraction which1 if a function so essential to the preservation of life and health is to be performed in an efficient manner1 should be perfectly free and capable of variation under different circumstances4 ,so1 indeed1 it has been allowed to be in all parts of the world and in all ages with one exception4 ,it was reserved for medival civilized ,europe to have invented the system of squeezing together1 rendering immobile1 and actually deforming the most important part of the human frame2 and the custom has been handed down to1 and flourishes in1 our day1 notwithstanding all our professed admiration for the models of classical antiquity1 and our awakened attention to the laws of health4 ,the crusade against corsets is by no means confined to this country2 even the educational authorities in ,america and on the continent of ,europe have dealt pretty drastically with the matter4 ,it is said1 moreover1 that the ,queen of ,portugal has brought before the ladies of her ,court the evils of tight lacing1 by means of radiographs4 ,there have been other times when even laws have been made with regard to the corset1 which1 it appears1 was first employed for a wrong purpose in medival times4 ,it is said of the time of ,henry ,,iii of ,france that the corset was no longer the simple basquine that was inoffensive enough at first4#ee ,the corps piqu which was endured by the fair ladies of the period was an instrument of torture4 ,a hard solid mould into which the wearer had to be compressed1 there to remain and suffer in spite of the splinters of wood that penetrated the flesh1 took the skin off the waist1 and made the ribs ride one over the other4 ,montaigne and ,ambrose ,par are witnesses1 and the latter must have known something about the question4 ,it is not1 perhaps1 surprising that ,charles ,,ix and ,henry ,,iii brought in stringent laws on the subject4 ,we are told#ef that with ,catherine de ,medici's ascent to the throne the habit became compulsory4 ,she gave her subjects no choice1 and said that all women of good birth and breeding should wear corsets which would reduce their waists to the abnormal size of thirteen inches4 ,in our country on various occasions lacing was carried to extremes1 as in the time of ,henry ,,viii4 ,in ,elizabeth's time1 the forerunner of the busks was not fastened to the stays1 but consisted of a piece of carved wood which was pushed down inside the bodice4 7,see ,plate ,,xi47 ,some of the outer bodices in the times of the early ,georges seem to be as hard and unyielding as if they were intended for armour4 ,tin stays were not unheard of in the days of the earlier colonists in ,america4 ,illustration3 ,,wooden ,,stay ,,busks4 ,,these ,,incidentally ,,show ,,survivals ,,of ,,primitive ,,ornament4 ,from the ,reliquary1 by kind permission of ,messrs4 ,bembrose ,sons1 ,ltd4 ,,plate ,,xi4 ,the craze for tight lacing once more made itself felt at the beginning of the nineteenth century1 and not many years before the end one heard from time to time of the cruelty that was practised at high-class schools for young ladies1 where the girls were made to sleep in specially tight and rigid corsets4 ,although there is a tendency to abolish stays1 it does not1 of course1 prove that on occasion they may not be of use4 ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg1 the well-known surgeon1 who is a specialist in cases of spinal curvature1 and who adopts mechanical means of treatment1#eg is in a position to offer an opinion on the use of corsets1 as he uses special ones as precautionary means of support and where curvatures may threaten1 as well as to be safeguards against relapse after the mechanical treatment of a curvature has been consummated4 ,in one of his books he has much to offer in favour of the corset1 and at the outset it may be well to say that ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg's remarks are mainly directed against the views of the practitioner who1 from the treatment that he advises1 is called a gymnastic practitioner1 and who1 according to ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg1 goes further than attacking matters of treatment1 and in order to popularize his own practice endeavours to entwine with it revolutions that shall extend even to the simplest garments4 ,for instance1 the gymnastic practitioner maintains that corsets are detrimental to health4 ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg's opinions practically are those with which most sensible people would entirely agree4 ,the arguments which he brings forward in favour of them are not1 however1 very conclusive1 as we hope to show4 ,corsets1 he says1 are intended in their right and proper use simply to stay and support the body in its natural shape1 and not to mould it into funny forms according to the vagaries of fashion4 ,the women of classic times did not use them for this purpose4 ,on the contrary1 they had no reason to do so1 as their flowing garments did not permit them to display the outlines of their figures2 they therefore simply wore corsets because it had been found by centuries of experience that they were conducive to health and serviceable in exertion4 ,his description of the original corset of ,greece and ,rome will show to what ancient form of stay the modern corset may be traced4 ,the arrangements of the ancients consisted of three pieces1 and these were worn either together or separately1 as required4 ,they consisted of supporting bands worn round the body in a way very similar to the putties worn for support round the legs by the present-day soldiery4 ,the main and most useful portion of the corset was a zone1 or loin band4 ,then there was the thoracic band1 or strophion1 intended to uphold the breasts and conserve the figure4 ,and1 lastly1 there was the waistband1 which filled up the space between the other two4 ,it is from the conjunction of these triple bands that the modern corset has been evolved1 as it is worn by women of every class throughout civilized ,europe to-day4 ,what was made before in three pieces is now simply manufactured in one4 ,now let us consider the reasons given by ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg as to why women of all dominant and civilized races always wear1 and with advantage have worn1 some binder or corset2 and again1 why the whole history of the world shows that extraneous support is beneficial4 ,in the first place1 ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg says that in primitive and aboriginal races that practically wear no clothes1 the girls may be perfect in form when they arrive at their full growth1 but that they are1 as a rule1 hideous objects of disfigurement after their first child4 ,the inference is that civilized women retain their beauty in later life owing to the fact that they have worn stays4 ,on the other hand1 the fact that the native girls lose their beauty must1 according to the argument1 be because they have not worn stays2 but surely this can be compared with the fading of a flower or its changing colour after fertilization1 and is rather due to the absence of any conditions or kind of selection which would tend to preserve the woman's youthfulness4 ,besides1 we need go no farther than our own country to find cases where married women gradually lose their beauty1 and the ,welsh and ,italian women proverbially age rapidly4 ,the wearing of belts by navvies when they are doing heavy work is possibly a precautionary measure against strain1 but it does not refer to the race as a whole1 and one would take it that when it is said that ,elijah girt his loins in order to run before the chariot of ,ahab1 it simply means that he fastened up his flowing garments4 ,to the second question as to history showing that extraneous support is beneficial1 ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg says that the answer is simple even if ,darwinian4 ,he may claim that the if saves him1 though unintentionally1 for in his argument he seems to ignore the main principles of evolution4 ,he says1 first of all1 that it might just as well be asked why any clothing whatsoever should be found requisite by civilized mankind4 ,he claims rightly1 and so far he is in keeping with ,darwinism1 that man1 according to his obvious mechanism and morphology1 is a creature built on the quadruped pattern4 ,the word is spelt quadrupled1 though presumably this is a printer's error2 but he goes on to say that this building was done with the intent that his body should be horizontal instead of vertical4 ,of course1 the body of the original quadruped was horizontal2 but in the course of evolution such changes were made as enabled man to occupy an upright position4 ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg talks as if it was an intentional act on the part of man when he says that he managed to rear himself in a permanently erect position1 and as he has chosen the upright position1 so he has to experience some of the penalties attached to it4 ,the state of affairs is this3 man became perfectly well fitted for an upright position1 and his internal organs were arranged quite properly for progress on two legs instead of four1 although ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg claims to the contrary4 ,what may be the case is1 that natural selection no longer acts to keep man as perfectly constructed as he was1 or to improve him1 and some human beings may need support1 owing to weakness or the undue development of their bust1 just as those of us who suffer from short sight and bad teeth take advantage of eye-glasses and the skill of the dentist4 ,we think it hardly time yet to say that all women need stays1 any more than that we all need eye-glasses or should be provided with false teeth at a certain age4 ,summing up the matter1 when human beings take up work for which their bodies were not specially evolved1 or when they wish to do things which at one time all human beings could do1 but which1 through the cessation of the action of natural selection1 they are not now able to do1 then they want help4 ,this would explain why our soldiers when marching in ,south ,africa found puttees so useful1 as ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg maintains4 ,the case of dress brought forward by ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg is exactly a case in point4 ,we have seen in the opening chapters of this book that man has lost his hairy covering1 and1 so far as cold climates are concerned1 we must agree with ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg that it has been found by experience that clothing is necessary for healthful warmth4 ,all the same1 we should like to see some experiments tried to show whether even now it might not be quite possible to exist in this climate with little or no artificial covering4 ,we do not agree at all with the statement that as man has reared himself from four legs on to two1 so he has found by similar experience that some sort of bandaged support is required in order to assist an abdominal mechanism that is inadequate for biped progression4 ,in order to prove that the gymnastic practitioner is wrong when he says that corsets are injurious to health1 ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg brings forward the results of experiments made by ,professors ,roy and ,adami1 which he says scientifically prove stays to be distinctly beneficial4 ,these experiments were described at the ,british ,association ,meeting in #ahhh1 under the title of ,the ,physiological ,bearing of ,waist-belts and ,stays1 and the effects of these contrivances were tried not only upon men1 but upon animals4 ,it was shown that a gentle compression of the abdomen caused a greater flow of blood to other parts of the body1 and conduced in consequence to an increase of mental and muscular activity4 ,the experimenters do not seem to have waited to see whether in the course of time these effects were or were not obtained at the expense of the digestive organs1 but they concluded that they had directly explained the beneficial and extensive use of some form or other of waist-belt by all nations that had passed beyond the stage of absolute barbarity4 ,the theory has been advanced that stays are derived from swaddling clothes1 and that the custom has survived in the case of women alone1 for we may neglect the occasional use of such garments by men in the past at the present time1 for1 judging from advertisements in the papers1 their use is not confined to the fair sex4 ,there seems1 however1 little evidence in support of this theory1 and inquiry from a lady who has lived a long time in ,palestine has elicited the information that while swaddling clothes are still in use in the ,holy ,land1 stays do not form a part of native dress4 ,the other part of the body which nowadays appears to be deformed to the greatest extent is the foot4 ,it seems to be considered absolutely necessary1 if one is to appear elegant1 for one's toes to be pointed in such a way that the apex of the angle is in the middle of the foot instead of on the inner side2 and although the two points are probably unconnected1 we might here mention the idea that in a perfect foot the second toe ought to be longer than the great toe4 ,this would make the extreme end of the foot a little nearer the middle line1 and in ,art the second toe is represented as being the longest in accordance with the ,greek canon4 ,these proportions were copied from the ,egyptian representations1 and the original is probably to be found in the negroes1 according to ,sir ,william ,flower4 ,the latter points out that the longer our big toe is1 the further we are removed from apes2 and he found1 too1 that amongst hundreds of bare and therefore undeformed feet of children in ,perthshire1 which he examined1 he was not able to find one in which the second toe was the longest4 ,these children would1 of course1 belong to the lower classes1 and it would be interesting to know whether the same thing holds good in higher social circles when the foot remains normal4 ,it may be well to remember that ,sir ,william ,flower was a surgeon1 for ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg1 who tilts with the gymnastic practitioner once more on the subject of boots and stockings1 expresses somewhat different ideas upon the question4 ,he alludes to the two classes of people in the ,british ,isles who habitually discard boots and stockings--the fisher-folk and factory girls in some of the large ,scotch cities4 ,he says that he scarcely likes to be ungallant about the latter1 but commends the adult feet of both of these classes to the inspection of those who would draft their children into the bare-footed brigade4 ,he continues as follows3 ,the truth is that the feet of those who have been unbooted till they have reached adult life are splayed and spread1 large-jointed1 and very generally deformed from all approach to the ideal foot as it is depicted by the greatest painters1 or modelled by the greatest sculptors4 ,we have seen that the ideal foot of the sculptors is probably not a true ideal from an evolutionary point of view1 and there is no doubt but that the ideal foot would be the one produced under natural conditions in which we cannot include boots and stockings4 ,we should take it1 however1 that the stones of the seashore and the floor of a factory are not the ideal surfaces on which to habitually tread4 ,there is no doubt but that the deformities caused by shoes are often very great1 and ,sir ,william ,flower sums up the matter in the following sentences3--,the ,english mother or nurse who thrusts the tender feet of a young child into stiff1 unyielding1 pointed shoes or boots1 often regardless of the essential difference in form of right and left at a time when freedom is especially needed for their proper growth and development1 is the exact counterpart of the ,chinook ,indian woman1 applying her bandages and boards to the opposite end of her baby's body1 only with considerably less excuse2 for a distorted head apparently less affects health and comfort than cramped and misshapen feet1 and was also esteemed of more vital importance to preferment in ,chinook society4 ,any one who recollects the boots of the late ,lord ,palmerston will be reminded that a wide expanse of shoe leather is in this country1 even during the prevalence of an opposite fashion1 quite compatible with the attainment of the highest political and social eminence4#eh ,after all1 it is generally what our eyes are accustomed to that we consider to be right and fitting4 ,the broad-toed shoes that were adopted in the reign of ,henry ,,viii look clumsy to us2 but so did the pneumatic tyres of bicycles after we had got used to the look of the narrow solid ones4 ,it is not so much the wearing of boots of course1 but the kind of boots that has to be considered4 ,the high heels of shoes add to the evil effects of the pointed toes1 and a copy of a drawing from an advertisement figured by ,sir ,william ,flower recalls strongly the stunted foot of a ,chinese woman which the wearer of the shoe would be one of the first probably to anathematize4 ,this brings us to the malformation which has been caused through many centuries in a country that can claim a good deal of civilization1 and is produced by special bandages after a long and very painful course of treatment4 ,there is very little evidence of alteration in the form of the head having been practised in this country1 though one or two skulls have been found1 and there is a tradition that the custom prevailed not very long ago in ,norfolk4 ,in ,france1 however1 it was well known until recent years1 and even it may not have now become extinct4 ,there are plenty of records in the works of early writers with regard to the practice1 and some of the ,north-,american ,indians still follow the fashion of their fathers4 ,the ,chinook ,indians flatten the skull between boards so that they get the name of ,flat-heads1 and other tribes produce an elongated skull by constructing bandages of deer hide4 ,deformation of the head seems to have little effect on the free-living ,american ,indians1 but the same statement does not hold good among ,europeans4 ,according to the reports of ,french physicians1 they have traced all kinds of troubles to the practice4 ,if we have little evidence of head-deforming in this country by means of compression1 we meet occasionally with prehistoric skulls which have been trepanned1 and have had inserted into them a small piece of extraneous bone4 ,it is curious that such an operation could have been successfully made when there were probably no instruments of metal with which it could be done1 and one might well ask what object could possibly have been in view1 especially as the individual so treated had met with no accident that could have rendered the operation necessary4 ,it appears1 however1 that the piece of bone was probably that of some dead relative1 the idea being that the incorporation of it in the head of the young man would give him the qualities of the chief who had departed4 ,it is this notion which probably led to cannibalism4 ,when a brave warrior was slain1 his conqueror thought that by eating a small piece of him he might add his adversary's prowess to his own1 and no doubt when a respected relative died it was thought that his good qualities would pass to those who ate a portion of him4 ,besides the alterations that have been permanently made in the shape of the body1 there are many curious instances where clothes themselves have been utilized for the purpose of apparently altering its shape4 ,we have seen that ,punch's curious figure is due to a costume1 while the stuffed breeches adopted in the reign of ,james ,i1 the great farthingale of ,elizabeth's reign1 the hooped petticoat of ,queen ,anne's1 and the crinoline of the nineteenth century are instances of fashions that originated with or without apparent reasons4 ,just as ,mrs4 ,aria discovered what she terms the ancestress of the straight-fronted specialit corset on a bas-relief of a female figure from one of the mysterious forest cities in ,south ,america1 so ,mr4 ,rhead has reminded us of the festal dress of ,otaheite which ,captain ,cook figured in his ,geography4 ,our grandmothers in their crinoline may have looked like walking hay-cocks2 but the young women of ,otaheite who carry presents from one person of rank to another look as if they were issuing from an immense drum4 ,it is nothing new to make up deficiencies with padding that is intended to deceive1 and while at one time our countrywomen may have made themselves flat-chested with the help of leaden weights1 some1 judging from articles which we now see displayed in the shops1 are willing to call to their aid artificial contrivances which give the appearance of plumpness to their bust4 ,when speaking of padding1 one might recall the fact that the most usual place in which it is to be found--in civilians' clothes at least--is on the shoulder4 ,this reminds us of the way in which sleeves were sometimes puffed up above the shoulder4 ,the protuberance thus formed1 ,dr4 ,meyer tells us1 was originally intended to prevent weapons from slipping off when they were carried over the shoulder4 ,the fashion has since1 however1 been adopted in civilian costume both by men and by women4 ,,xxxvi ,,further ,,effects ,,of ,,clothes ,,on ,,the ,,individual ,,mental ,,effects ,,of ,,different ,,clothes--,,preferences ,,of ,,girls ,,for ,,certain ,,articles ,,of ,,dress--,,movements ,,that ,,depend ,,upon ,,the ,,presence ,,or ,,absence ,,of ,,clothes ,putting on one side the special points of detriment which clothes bring about with regard to the body1 we may turn to more general effects4 ,our language is full of proverbial sayings as to the way in which clothes may give beauty1 and also as to how much we owe to fine feathers and to our tailors4 ,quite apart from the results which clothes have upon other people1 there are the mental effects which are produced on ourselves4 ,that it is not1 perhaps1 comfort or discomfort altogether which causes our body to react on the mind1 is shown by the results of some investigations made by ,dr4 ,louis ,w4 ,flaccus among the schoolgirls of ,new ,york4#ei ,feelings of lightheartedness are the result of filmy clothes1 and one girl of eighteen said that whenever she had on a garment of this consistency she always wanted to dance4 ,the pleasant mental effects of gauzy stuffs and laces are said by the investigator to be due not only to their lightness1 but to the mental associations with which they are connected4 ,such dresses as those which we have mentioned suggest some gay social function4 ,again1 just as the putting on of a smoking jacket suggests relaxation to a man1 so does the assuming of evening dress impart the idea that correct behaviour is necessary4 ,heavy clothes bring about mental depression4 ,in a large1 heavy hat my spirits are low1 says one of the girls who were interrogated1 and ,dr4 ,flaccus claims that the mood may change with the hat1 while that he has evidence to go upon will be seen from the following answers3 ,a broad hat makes me feel jolly2 ,if my hat is flat on my forehead1 ,i feel depressed2 ,if ,i have a fancy hat on1 ,i am in a coquettish mood2 or again1 ,i feel brighter in a hat that rolls away from my face4 ,then the effect which certain surfaces have upon various persons has to be taken into consideration when dealing with this aspect of the subject1 for clothes are made of very different materials4 ,to touch a blanket will set some individuals' teeth on edge1 and an irritable mood may result when rough material rubs against the skin4 ,again1 while one person feels chills running down her back when she touches velvet1 another will delight to feel a velvety surface4 ,another remarkable thing which ,dr4 ,flaccus has brought before us is the striking difference between the preferences which girls have for certain articles of clothing4 ,most of the girls to whom the questions were addressed put shoes first2 gloves came very close1 then neckwear1 hats1 underwear1 jewellery1 and ribbons2 and though this may not fit in with the ideas of the humorists on the subject1 the weakness for hats was shown to be less than one-third that for gloves4 ,speaking of the effect that clothes may have upon the action of people1 we may recall the way in which skirts and trousers may give rise to different habits4 ,if one drops anything into a boy's lap he instinctively brings his knees together to prevent the object thrown from falling between them2 whereas a girl would throw her thighs apart in order to make a receptacle with her frock4 ,advantage has been taken of this fact by those who wished to discover whether a person with whom they were dealing was a woman1 or a man masquerading in female attire4 ,more than one novelist has enlarged on this theme1 and ,mark ,twain has used it effectively in the ,adventures of ,huckleberry ,finn4 ,the occasion is when the hero visits ,mrs4 ,judith ,loftus at ,st4 ,petersburg1 in order to find out what is going on with regard to the murder4 ,mrs4 ,loftus1 whose suspicions were aroused1 got the boy who was dressed up as a girl1 to thread a needle1 to throw a bit of lead at a rat1 and having gained some evidence from these two experiments1 she tried a third4 ,she says1 ,keep your eye on the rats2 you had better have the lead in your lap handy4 ,huckleberry's story continues3 ,so she dropped the lump into my lap just at that moment4 ,i clapped my legs together on it1 and she went on talking1 but only about a minute4 ,then she took off the hank 7he was holding some yarn71 and looked me straight in the face1 but very pleasant1 and said3 ,come1 now--what's your real name8 ,wh-what1 mum8 ,what's your real name8 ,is it ,bill1 or ,tom1 or ,bob1 or what is it8 ,,xxxvii ,,the ,,rise ,,and ,,fall ,,of ,,fashions ,,reasons ,,why ,,fashions ,,are ,,followed--,,gay ,,clothes ,,seen ,,when ,,periods ,,of ,,depression ,,are ,,over--,,condemnation ,,of ,,fashions ,,by ,,the ,,clergy--,,quakers--,,sumptuary ,,laws--,,the ,,killing ,,of ,,fashions ,the rise and fall of fashions is a matter that affects every nation and practically every individual1 for savages are quite as much harassed and tortured by them as any civilized people are4 ,fashions are perpetuated1 as ,herbert ,spencer has pointed out1 by imitation1 and from two motives which are widely divergent4 ,it may be prompted by reverence for the one imitated1 on the one hand1 or by a desire to assert equality with him4 ,in the beginning1 no doubt fashions arose with an idea to improve upon nature1 though notions as to ideals of beauty must have been hazy in many cases4 ,fashions have been advanced as evidence in support of the proverb that there is nothing new under the sun1 and the way in which some of them come round again goes a very long way to prove it in the case of clothes4 ,luckily some enormities seem to have died out1 but in the light of past history we can never feel quite safe1 and we never know1 on the other hand1 where some slight change which in itself seems novel may not lead us to ridiculous extremes4 ,of course1 many garments and styles are importations from other countries4 ,the pelisse came from ,persia at the time of the ,crusaders1 just as the kimono was brought in recent times from ,japan4 ,fads and peculiarities and even deformities of ,royalty1 as we saw in the case of the peruke1 have introduced fashions4 ,the crinoline1 according to all accounts1 was first devised to hide the shape of a princess4 ,perhaps no other contrivance has brought more nuisance in its train or had more ridicule poured upon it2 but it is only one instance of many fashions that have been carried to excess4 ,it is true1 as we shall have occasion to mention1 that in earlier times laws were enacted to restrict the size of ruffs and the length of the toes of shoes1 but often with little effect1 and when shape and size did not occupy attention1 the costliness of the garment caused restrictions to be made1 while the clergy seem never to have ceased from inveighing against the follies of fashions4 ,in the twelfth century the devil was represented by an old illustrator in the costume of a fine lady with the long hanging sleeves and tightly laced bodice of the time4 ,a hundred years later ,english preachers took exception to laced openings through which ladies showed their costly under-linen1 and dignified them with the name of gates of hell4 ,in the twentieth century ministers in the ,united ,states have wasted their time in scolding the lady members of their congregations for wearing fancy stockings4 ,sometimes1 on the other hand1 the clergy themselves have laid themselves open to criticism with regard to the gorgeousness of their apparel4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afh4--;,a ,merveilleuse 7after ,a4 ,robida74 ,periods of depression have been followed by fashions of the gayest4 ,we may recall the times of ,charles ,,ii1 when ,england breathed again after the civil wars4 ,after the ,french ,revolution1 when the reign of terror was over1 the ,merveilleuses went back to the dresses of antiquity1 such as the ,athenian costume and that of the ,lacedemonian girls1 whose tunics were slit down the sides from the hips4 ,when this was not done the skirts were looped up on the left side above the knee with a cameo brooch4 7,see ,figure #afh47 ,one writer records a wager in which a lady betted that her dress1 including trinkets1 did not weigh two pounds4 ,she afterwards retired and took off the dress1 which was weighed1 and the whole costume turned the scales at a little over a pound4 ,one of these dresses went by the name of the female savage1 and consisted of a gauze chemise over pink fleshings1 with golden garters4 ,it is not surprising that such costumes1 like others before1 brought down upon them the condemnation of the ,church1 and the following bull1 dated at ,rome on the #afth ,october1 #ahjj1 is reprinted from ,the ,times of ,january #bhth1 #ahja3-- ,the ,pope1 so long engaged in reducing the ,gallican ,church within the ,catholic pale1 has not been negligent of the duty of recalling the female form within the petticoat and the handkerchief4 ,after speaking in appropriate terms of the present scarcity of clothing1 and of the sensations it may excite even in the withered bosom of a monk1 and quoting the authority of ,st4 ,clement of ,alexandria1 ,his ,holiness strictly enjoins his officers1 civil and ecclesiastical1 to repress1 by fine or corporal punishment1 according to the circumstances of the case1 these crying enormities4 ,he directs1 too1 that their punishment should be extended to such damsels as though at first sight they appear properly attired1 are nevertheless decked in transparent robes1 and with a voluptuous and magnificent attire display themselves in very seductive and tempting attitudes4 ,moreover1 fathers1 husbands1 heads of families1 who weakly or negligently permit their wives1 daughters1 servants1 etc41 to trespass against these rules1 shall not escape with impunity4 ,also1 all taylors1 haberdashers1 milliners and men-milliners1 hairdressers1 and others who contribute to these enormities of dress shall in no wise pass unpunished4 ,the bull goes on to state that all priests1 confessors1 overseers1 churchwardens1 and others shall in no wise admit such delinquents to the ,holy ,supper2 that they shall not allow women improperly dressed to enter the church1 and if they come they shall be driven out1 and if they resist1 the higher powers shall be required to lend their aid4 ,it is said that a ,russian nobleman who was used to judge the position of ladies by the amount of furs and clothes that they wore1 on seeing an ,english lady in a costume of the merveilleuse style offered her money in the belief that she was a beggar4 ,fashions may have a special significance1 as in the case of bell-bottom trousers of the costermonger1 for it is said that by the cut of these garments the progress of the wearer's courtship can be traced4 ,when he first walks out1 the bottoms of his trousers are of such an ample size that only the toes of his boots can be seen4 ,as matters proceed and the wedding comes into view1 the trousers assume more moderate dimensions below the knee1 and when at last the man is married he is content with a bell of quite modest proportions1 with what a writer in one of our comic papers describes as an almost total absence of sauciness in the cut of the garment4 ,the lengths to which women will go in their desire to appear in the fashion1 even if they are not1 is shown by the business which a lady in ,new ,york is said to have founded4 ,according to all accounts1 she deals in nothing but discarded ,paris waistbands--that is to say1 those which bear the names of well-known dressmakers4 ,women in plenty in ,new ,york will buy these little strips of silk in order to have them stitched into their own dresses1 to give their friends the impression that their garments were made in the ,french capital4 ,laws intended for the good of trade have brought in fashions1 as in the case of the statute cap4 ,the very objections made by religious sects such as the ,puritans and ,quakers1 who have departed from extravagance and superfluity1 have given rise to new fashions of plainness4 ,even ,quaker ladies must have shown their love of dress1 for at a meeting in #agbf the following message was sent by some of the stronger-minded of them to their fellow-women3-- ,as first1 that immodest fashion of hooped petticoats or the imitation1 either by something put into their petticoats to make them set full1 or any other imitation whatever1 which we take to be but a branch springing from the same corrupt root of pride4 ,and also that none of our ffriends accustom themselves to wear their gowns with superfluous folds behind1 but plain and decent1 nor go without aprons1 nor to wear superfluous gathers or plaits in their caps or pinners1 nor to wear their heads drest high behind2 neither to cut or lay their hair on their foreheads or temples4 ,and that ffriends be careful to avoid wearing striped shoes or red and white heeled shoes or clogs or shoes trimmed with gaudy colours4 ,and also that no ffriends use that irreverent practice of taking snuff or handing a snuff-box one to the other in meeting4 ,also that ffriends avoid the unnecessary use of fans in meeting1 lest it direct the mind from the more inward and spiritual exercises which all ought to be concerned in4 ,and also that ffriends do not accustom themselves to go with bare breasts or bare necks4 ,perhaps in a minor way superstitions also have tended to keep up fashions4 ,at a wedding1 for instance1 it is always said that a bride should wear ,something old and something new1 ,something borrowed and something blue4 ,the enactments1 however1 which were directed against excess in dress do not seem to have always been so successful4 ,the part which the law has played with regard to dress in our own country has been very considerable1 and it may be of interest to consider briefly one or two of the so-called sumptuary laws4 ,in ,edward ,,iii's reign the people were ordered to dress according to their station1 and those who were not of high rank were forbidden to use expensive furs and ornaments4 ,these orders were so neglected that ,henry ,,iv revised and strengthened them4 ,slashed sleeves at the time of ,edward ,,iv were prohibited to yeomen and any one below their rank4 ,legislation was also introduced to lessen the preposterous length to which the toes of shoes had grown1 for it was enacted that not even the gentlemen should have them of a greater length than two inches4 ,the ,recorder of ,chester shows the following order made by ,henry ,,viii3 ,to distinguish the head-dresses of married women from unmarried1 no married woman to wear white or other coloured caps2 and no woman to wear any hat1 unless she rides or goes abroad into the country 7except sick or aged persons71 on pain of #cs4 #d;d4 ,another law amounted to a tax on persons who dressed elegantly1 for those who would not keep a horse and armour ready for the wars were fined heavily if they or their wives wore fine clothes or ornaments4 ,it is probable1 too1 that ,henry ,,viii's officers took care to collect the fines4 ,mary brought in a law against the use of silk1 and a little later on the great ruffs claimed attention1 for in #aefb it was ordered that no more than a yard and a half of kersey should be used in making a ruff4 ,james ,i repealed all the sumptuary laws1 though we have seen that he and his successors occupied themselves somewhat with the dress of the clergy4 ,in ,scotland1 after the rising of #agde1 an ,act was passed forbidding the wearing of tartan as part of ,highland dress1 under the penalty of six months' imprisonment for the first offence and transportation beyond the seas for seven years for the second4 ,no ,highlander could receive the benefit of the ,act of ,indemnity without first taking the following oath3 ,i1 ,a4,b41 do swear1 and as ,i shall answer to ,god at the great day of judgement1 ,i have not1 nor shall have1 in my possession any gun1 sword1 pistol1 or arm whatsoever1 and never use tartan1 plaid1 or any part of the ,highland garb2 and if ,i do so1 may ,i be cursed in my undertakings1 family1 and property1--may ,i never see my wife and children1 father1 mother1 or relations1--may ,i be killed in battle as a coward1 and lie without ,christian burial1 in a strange land1 far from the graves of my forefathers and kindred2 may all this come across me if ,i break my oath4 ,this severe and harsh ,act caused great discontent1 and was repealed in #aggb4 ,as showing the hindrances caused to trade by some of the peculiar regulations1 we find that in #aefe the ,recorder of ,london describes an interview which he had with civic tailors1 who were puzzled as to whether they should line a slop hose1 not cut in panes1 with a lining of cotton stitched to the slop over and besydes the linen lining straight to the leg4 ,the ,recorder1 on considering the words of the proclamation which had caused the trouble1 gave it as his opinion that they could not2 but the tailors1 though they went away satisfied1 came back to say that their customers had gone to other tailors outside the ,city1 who made their clothes for them in the way that was first suggested4 ,it was this contretemps which caused the ,recorder to write to a higher legal authority4 ,nowadays clothes and the law have little to do with one another1 though occasionally ladies' dresses about which there is a dispute are seriously tried on in court1 the legal luminaries meanwhile making a studied pretence of ignorance with regard to the garments4 ,though there are no statutes to curb modern fashions1 yet we are reminded of the rules that have had to be made in certain theatres on account of the overwhelming size of the matine hat4 ,although the law does not seem to have been able to change the fashions to a very great extent1 they have sometimes been killed suddenly4 ,in the days of public executions1 criminals sometimes elected to wear fashionable garments1 and in consequence the demand for them ceased4 ,sometimes1 again1 those who were interested in the suppression of the fashion persuaded the doomed man or woman to wear a particular dress1 and a judge has been known to compass the same end by ordering the hangman who officiated to deck himself in the objectionable garment4 ,the wearing of nightgowns in the street by ladies was stopped owing to a woman being executed in her bedgown4 ,the use of yellow starch had its death-blow when the hangman appeared in orange collar and cuffs4 ,black satin dresses went out of fashion because ,mrs4 ,manning was hung when wearing one4 ,now1 however1 as there are no public executions1 there is not this opportunity of getting rid of obnoxious styles1 and society ought to look about for another means to repress them4 ,,xxxviii ,,dress ,,reform ,,clothes ,,to ,,be ,,avoided--,,need ,,for ,,warmer ,,garments--,,rational ,,dress ,,for ,,women ,it is evident from what we have said about the effect of clothes upon the body1 that there is ample opportunity for improvement in our costume as regards its shape and the methods in which it is worn4 ,we have already said also1 when speaking of colour1 that1 in the case of men at any rate1 it might often be more picturesque and brighter4 ,there are several societies whose aim it is to bring about improvements4 ,the ,rational ,dress ,league has general objects in view1 and it also keeps in mind the special one of introducing bifurcated garments for women4 ,there is also the ,healthy and ,artistic ,dress ,union which seems to have general objects4 ,education is needed in order that knowledge of the evil results of wrongly shaped shoes and tight stays may be known1 and what is more1 such training as will enable that strength of mind to be acquired which will prevent the coming generation from being swayed by foolish fashions4 ,the origin of these it is difficult to trace1 but the pioneers of them1 whether self-centred costumiers or willing victims1 ought to be punished in some way4 ,there are points to be borne in mind in connection with garments which have not yet been considered1 and they cause otherwise unoffending clothes to do harm4 ,there is no doubt but that the weight of one's dress should be suspended from the shoulders1 though the great majority of women hang much of their clothes from their waists4 ,a good deal of the weight could easily be taken off this part of the body by the fastening of skirts and under garments to bodices1 or by the use of shoulder-straps and the introduction of tunics4 ,dr4 ,cantlie#fj has very graphically shown the common features of a modern family1 and he has given a picture 7see ,figure #afi7 of a group consisting of the average-sized mother1 the taller and larger-framed daughter1 and the insufficiently clad boy of poor physique4 ,this author says that the sailor suit worn at the age of two and a half or three years is a recent innovation1 and the rather puny young boy of to-day came in with the change4 ,dr4 ,cantlie has estimated that1 except in very hot weather1 children should have a pound of clothing for every stone they weigh1 for the one great secret of rendering children healthy is to keep them warm4 ,as a matter of fact1 a girl that weighs three stone really wears clothes that weigh three pounds2 but one of the small boys of the same weight1 in a sailor suit1 wears clothes that only weigh about half as much as his sister's4 ,dr4 ,cantlie also objects to short jackets which do not cover the loins1 and says that the public school that will introduce the ,norfolk jacket in the place of the ,eton will thrive at the expense of its neighbours4 ,high collars worn by youths keep the head at the wrong angle1 and also perpetuate the deformity of the jaw which is caused by breathing through the mouth4 ,they also prevent the shoulders from being squared in the attempt to get rid of round shoulders4 ,dr4 ,cantlie urges a return to the brace worn by our fathers1 and still occasionally seen1 in which the straps are not united4 ,it is impossible for any one wearing joined braces to stand erect with the shoulders squared1 for they press on the neck and cause the wearer to poke his head forward4 ,dr4 ,cantlie1 however1 hopes that the difficulties in the way of obtaining separate braces will not lead to the adoption of the elastic belt1 for the only place where this could be worn without bad effects is below the haunch bones1 and in ordinary dress this would bring it below the waistcoat4 ,it will be found also that the use of belts by labourers brings evils in its train which were not mentioned by ,mr4 ,heather ,bigg1 when speaking of the advantages of girding up the loins4 7,see page #cbi47 ,no account of dress and its developments would be complete without a reference to ,mrs4 ,bloomer and the garments which now bear her name1 and are emblematical of rational costume4 ,that women have no absolute claim to petticoats as their own special dress has been made quite clear1 and it is equally evident that in many places they wear trousers as a matter of course4 ,still1 in this country there seems to be a rooted objection on the part of the majority to doffing skirts1 though this seems1 however1 to be growing less day by day1 in spite of the many reasons which cause the fair sex to cling to petticoats4 ,as we have found before1 garments which fall to the ground give dignity1 and women sacrifice their dignity with difficulty4 ,yet1 as need hardly be pointed out1 men do not wear dressing-gowns when they are jumping1 nor fur-trimmed mantles when they go to business4 ,dresses with trains could be kept for ceremonial occasions1 or when there is nothing much to be done1 or again1 we might add1 when there is little dust to be raised4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afi4--;,a modern family1 consisting of the average-sized mother1 the taller daughter1 and the puny boy 7from a drawing by ,miss ,audrey ,watson in ,physical ,efficiency1 by ,dr4 ,cantlie1 by kind permission of ,messrs4 ,putnam's ,sons74 ,bacteriology has shown us that the long skirt disseminates germs as it trails along the ground2 in fact1 it stirs them up for other people to breathe1 and the culprit herself carries off as her fair share a large quantity which settles on her dress4 ,in this way the germs of disease are carried home to the dwelling-house4 ,in these days also1 when women even jump on and off motor omnibuses before they are at a stand-still1 it is evident that long frocks are objectionable and dangerous4 ,when lady gardeners were first employed at ,kew ,gardens1 it was found that their skirts got in the way1 and were liable to damage the plants4 ,the ,director ordered that the girls should wear a suitable costume1 and they adopted divided garments1 though it must be said that they covered them to some extent with an apron4 ,in riding-dress of course ladies wear trousers under their habits when they use a side saddle1 although it has been considered right of recent years for them to ride astride1 and from time to time we hear that it is being done4 ,in the time of ,stephen and of ,edward ,,iii women rode astride1 and the ladies in ,mexico and other parts of ,america regularly do so at the present time4 ,chaucer described ,the ,wife of ,bath as wearing on her feet a paire of spurries sharpe4 ,from this we may judge that she also adopted a cross saddle1 and as a matter of fact in the ,elesmere ,,mss4 we find a picture of her1 showing that she rode astride1 and was dressed in a curious garment like a divided bag4 ,on the ,continent1 ladies who go shooting very often dress like their husbands1 and a year or two ago the ,american newspapers were full of accounts of a lady who imitated the riding costume of a hunting man to the smallest detail4 ,apropos of this1 ,the ,field#fa told an amusing story of an ,english lady who in a measure unintentionally forestalled our ,american cousins1 for after she had had the best part of her habit carried away by some aggressive brambles1 she was seen scudding after her horse in a pair of real top boots4 ,divided garments only appear unfeminine because we are unaccustomed to see them on ladies1 and it is no secret that they are worn to a very great extent under skirts4 ,doubtless there may be some to whom the very idea of such a thing is abhorrent1 and possibly there are still wardrobes like those of a good lady mentioned by ,miss ,alice ,morse ,earle#fb in her book on the ,costume of ,colonial ,times4 ,she was the wife of a respectable and well-to-do ,dutch settler in the ,new ,netherlands1 and her name was ,vrouentje ,ides ,stoffelsen1 and she left behind her in #afda1 a gold hoop ring1 a silver medal and chain1 and a silver undergirdle to hang keys on2 a damask furred jacket1 two black camlet jackets1 two doublets1 one iron gray1 the other black2 a blue1 a steel-gray lined petticoat1 and a black coarse camlet-lined petticoat2 two black skirts1 a new bodice1 two white waistcoats1 one of ,harlem stuff2 a little black vest with two sleeves1 a pair of damask sleeves1 a reddish mourning gown1 not linen2 four pair pattens1 one of ,spanish leather2 a purple apron and four blue aprons1 nineteen cambric caps and four linen ones2 a fur cap trimmed with beaver2 nine linen handkerchiefs trimmed with lace1 two pair of old stockings1 and three shifts4 ,one disposed to be critical might note the somewhat scanty proportion of underclothing in this wardrobe1 and as ,ides's husband swore 'by his manly troth' that the list of her possessions was a true and complete one1 we are forced to believe that it was indeed all the underclothing she possessed4 ,it seems1 however1 as we have said before1 that the actual ugliness of many of the so-called bloomer costumes which were in vogue a few years ago1 did much to keep back progress in the direction of their adoption4 ,it seems as if women were frightened1 as it were1 to go the whole hog1 and instead of wearing neat knickerbockers they had them exceedingly baggy and inelegant1 or adopted a kind of hybrid costume1 half bloomers and half skirt4 ,let us see what the tendency now is with regard to a rational dress for women4 ,mrs4 ,bloomer had a skirt just below the knees1 and trousers gathered in at the ankles4 ,the modern bloomers come only to the knee1 but really1 as ,dr4 ,bernard ,o',connor says when writing in the ,gazette published by the ,rational ,dress ,league1#fc they are made too full4 ,dr4 ,o',connor recommends for active exercise1 such as cycling1 something like a sailor's jacket and sailor's trousers1 but the latter should end and be gathered in at the knees4 ,in addition there should be long tight stockings1 and ,dr4 ,o',connor adds that tights throughout would be preferable to the ordinary bloomers4 ,it would seem1 however1 that this dress for general use might be improved as regards both form and elegance1 and that a long coat or tunic1 reaching nearly to the knees1 with fairly tight knickerbockers1 is the rational dress that is most to be commended for women4 ,,conclusion ,by way of ending1 we would again point out that the account which we have given of survivals in dress and their history1 shows that they in their development are governed by the same laws as those which act on the bodies and organs of living creatures1 and we hope that what we have gathered together may be taken as a small contribution to the proper study of mankind1 which we have been told times out of number is nothing more nor less than man4 ,,bibliography ,the small numbers given in the text correspond with those printed here4 ,,no4 ,,page #a4 ,the ,origin of ,species1 by ,charles ,darwin4 7,first edition published #ahei7 #b #b4 ,development in ,dress1 by ,george ,h4 ,darwin4 ,macmillan's ,magazine1 ,september1 #ahgb1 page #daj #c #c4 ,pithecanthropus erectus1 eine ,menschenaehnliche ,uebergangsform aus ,java1 by ,eug4 ,dubois1 ,batavia1 #ahid #g #d4 ,journal during the voyage of ,h4,m4,s4 ,beagle1 by ,charles ,darwin4 ,minerva ,library1 #ahhi1 page #aed #aa #e4 ,the ,industrial ,arts of ,denmark1 by ,j4 ,j4 ,a4 ,worsaae4 #ahhb1 page #dh #ah #f4 ,see ,number #b1 page #dab #cj #g4 ,notice of ,lecture given by ,mr4 ,allan ,poe ,newcombe1 in the ,sandwich ,islands4 ,quoted from the ,honolulu ,commercial ,advertiser in ,the ,english ,mechanic1 ,no4 #aicd #di #h4 ,see ,number #f #eh #i4 ,the ,human ,beast of ,burden1 by ,otis ,t4 ,mason4 ,smithsonian ,report of the ,united ,states ,national ,museum1 #ahhg1 page #bdf #aaj #aj4 ,anthropology1 by ,edward ,b4 ,tylor4 #ahib1 page #bcf #aaa #aa4 ,the ,british ,lake ,dwellings near ,glastonbury4 #ahif1 page #ac #aag #ab4 ,the ,gem ,cutter's ,craft1 by ,leopold ,claremont4 #aijf1 #abc #ac4 pages #ge and #hg #abd #ad4 ,some ,suggestions as to the ,origin of the ,penannular #ae4 ,brooch1 by ,edward ,lovett4 ,the ,reliquary1 ,vol4 ,x1 #aijd1 page #ae #abe #af4 ,races of ,man1 by ,oscar ,peschel4 ,english ,translation1 #ahhi1 page #agd #acf #ag4 ,the ,cyclopdia of the ,british ,costumes1 from the ,metropolitan ,repository of ,fashions4 #ahbf1 page #aif #ade #ah4 ,a letter in ,the ,morning ,post of ,november #abth1 #ahig1 from ,messrs4 ,andr ,co4 #aec #ai4 ,english ,costume1 painted and described by ,dion ,clayton ,calthrop4 #aijf1 page #acj #aef #bj4 ,article on ,cockades in ,the ,sketch for ,march #ith1 #ahih #aeh #ba4 ,see ,number #ai #aei #bb4 ,costume from ,monumental ,brasses1 by ,herbert ,druitt4 #aijf #afe #bc4 ,rational ,dress v4 ,industrialism1 ,the ,rational ,dress ,gazette1 ,no4 #hh1 by ,dr4 ,alice ,vickery1 page #cef #afe #bd4 ,shoe-throwing at ,weddings1 by ,james ,e4 ,crombie1 ,folk ,lore1 ,vol4 ,,vi 7#ahie71 page #beh #agf #be4 ,ecclesiastical ,vestments1 their ,development and ,history1 by ,r4 ,a4 ,s4 ,macalister4 #ahif1 page #adj #ahe #bf4 ,vestiarium ,christianium3 the ,origin and ,gradual ,development of the ,dress of the ,holy ,ministry in the ,church1 by the ,rev4 ,wharton ,d4 ,marriott4 #ahfa1 page #dh #ahh #bg4 ,see ,number #be1 page #ba #ahi #bh4 ,a letter in ,the ,guardian1 by ,g4 ,c4 ,coulton1 ,august1 #aijg #aid #bi4 ,paedag4 ,lib4 iii41 page #cjj #bje #cj4 ,see ,number #bb1 page #abb #baj #ca4 ,college ,caps and ,doctors' ,hats1 by ,professor ,e4 ,c4 ,clark4 ,archological ,journal1 ,vol4 ,,lxi4 #ahid1 page #cf #bac #cb4 ,see ,number #bb1 page #bbd #baf #cc4 ,the ,sacring of the ,english ,kings1 by ,j4 ,wickham ,legg4 ,archological ,journal1 ,vol4 ,,xli4 #ahid1 page #ce #bba #cd4 ,history of the ,king's ,body ,guard of the ,yeomen of the ,guard1 by ,colonel ,sir ,reginald ,hennell4 #aijd1 plate facing page #cb #bbe ,uniforms of our ,fighting ,forces1 ,regimental ,survivals #ce4 and ,peculiarities1 by ,r4 ,caton ,woodville4 ,cassell's #cf4 ,magazine1 #aijf1 page #ebd2 and ,peculiarities of ,british ,army ,dress1 by ,walter ,wood4 ,pall ,mall ,magazine1 ,vol4 ,,xi4 #ahig1 page #ebg #bch #cg4 ,yester ,year1 by ,a4 ,robida1 ,english translation1 page #hc #bec #ch4 ,a ,lecture given by ,mr4 ,george ,heppel before the ,hammersmith ,literary and ,scientific ,society #bec #ci4 ,naples in #ahhh1 by ,eustace ,neville ,rolffe #bed #dj4 ,notes by a ,naturalist on ,h4,m4,s4 ,challenger1 by ,professor ,moseley #bgb #da4 ,see ,number #dj1 page #dbc #bgc #db4 ,costume in ,england1 by ,f4 ,w4 ,fairholt4 ,revised ,edition1 #ahhe1 ,vol4 ,,ii1 page #cjc #bgh #dc4 ,the ,whole ,stock of a ,coquette1 by ,helen ,c4 ,gordon4 ,english ,illustrated ,magazine1 ,february1 #aija1 page #dea #bgi #dd4 ,costume3 ,fanciful1 ,historical1 and ,theatrical1 by ,mrs4 ,aria4 #aijf1 page #aii #bha #de4 ,curiosities of ,literature1 by ,disraeli4 ,vol4 ,i1 page #ahf #bhc #df4 ,see ,number #ai1 page #bj #bhg #dg4 ,see ,number #db1 page #bdj #bhi #dh4 ,suggested ,moorish ,origin of certain ,amulets in use in ,great ,britain1 by ,dr4 ,plowright4 ,the ,reliquary1 ,vol4 ,,xii1 #aijf1 page #ajf #bic #di4 ,horse ,brasses1 by ,lina ,eckenstein4 ,the ,reliquary1 ,vol4 ,,xii1 #aijf1 page #bea #bic #ej4 ,animal ,artisans1 by ,c4 ,j4 ,cornish4 #aijf1 page #bea #cjj #ea4 ,article by ,mr4 ,yoxall in ,the ,journal of ,gipsy ,lore1 new series1 ,vol4 ,i1 part ,i1 #aijg #cjf #eb4 ,article by ,mr4 ,j4 ,chevasse4 ,evening ,news1 ,april #eth1 #aijg #caf #ec4 ,article in ,the ,daily ,mail1 ,september #dth1 #aijg #cag #ed4 ,essays on ,museums and other subjects connected with ,natural ,history1 by ,sir ,william ,flower4 #ahih1 page #cej #cbd #ee4 ,see ,number #cg1 page #ia #cbe #ef4 ,the ,history of the ,corset1 by ,geraldine ,vane and ,f4 ,glen ,walker4 ,lady's ,realm ,summer ,number1 #aija #cbf #eg4 ,spinal ,curvatures1 by ,heather ,bigg4 #aije #cbf #eh4 ,see ,number #ed1 page #cdg #cce #ei4 ,article in ,the ,morning ,leader of ,april #agth1 #aijf #cci #fj4 ,physical ,efficiency1 by ,james ,cantlie4 #aijf #cee #fa4 ,leaderette in ,the ,field1 ,august #bith1 #aijb1 page #deb #cei #fb4 ,costume of ,colonial ,times1 by ,alice ,morse ,earle1 page #bh #cei #fc4 ,why ,won't ,they ,alter ,it8 by ,bernard ,o',connor1 ,rational ,dress ,gazette1 ,no4 #hg1 page #ceb #cfa ,,index ,,note4--,the numbers in heavy type refer to the pages on which figures will be found4 ,abbesses1 costume of1 #aih ,abergavenny1 the ,marquis of1 wears badges1 #ia ,academical dress1 #bjh -- hoods1 #baj ,achievements1 styles of1 #hg ,acrobat1 dress of1 #bhf -- tights of1 #bhf -- trunk hose of1 #bhf ,admiral1 uniform of1 worn by coxswains at ,eton on the ,fourth of ,june1 #aga ,africa1 the ,west ,coast of1 little clothing worn on1 #h ,aggries1 #aac ,agilbert1 ,bishop of ,paris1 ring of1 #aad ,aiglets1 #ajj ,aiguillettes1 #aja1 #aja -- ,mr4 ,caton ,woodville on1 #bdj -- of aides-de-camp1 #bdj -- -- footmen1 #ada1 #ada1 #bdj -- -- ,household ,cavalry1 #bdj -- -- a ,knight of the ,bath1 #bca -- -- -- ,knight of ,st4 ,michael and ,st4 ,george1 #bca ,ailette1 #hd ,albe1 #aih1 #aii -- of ,james ,,ii1 #bba -- originally a secular garment1 #ahi -- replaced by surplice1 #ahe ,alhambra1 #bic ,almshouses1 costumes of1 #agj ,almuce1 #aih1 #aii -- forerunner of the tippet1 #bab ,ambassadors1 cockade of ,danish1 #afj -- -- -- ,english1 #afj -- -- -- ,foreign1 #afj -- -- -- ,french1 #afj ,american1 dress of the1 #cah ,amethyst1 supposed powers of the1 #abd ,amice1 #bjj1 #bba ,amulet1 arrow-head1 #bif ,amulets buried with the head of ancient ,egyptians1 #abb -- crescent-shaped1 #bic -- heart-shaped1 #bie1 #bif -- worn by ,egyptian children1 #abc ,andaman ,islanders1 painting the body among1 #bgf ,andr1 ,messrs41 ,co41 on cockades1 #aec ,anglo-,saxon1 bandaged stocking of1 #fg1 #fg ,animal actors1 clothes of1 #cja ,animals1 colour of1 in connection with ceremonials1 #cjc -- curious variations of1 produced under domestication1 #cjb -- spotted when young1 #id -- mutilation of1 #cjb ,anklets1 #i ,anne1 apron of ,queen1 #aej -- ,consort of ,james ,i1 glove of1 #ih1 #ii ,antiquities1 ,museum of1 ,copenhagen1 #agh ,apparel of chasuble called an orphrey1 #aif -- on albe1 possibly remains of clavi1 #aic ,appendix1 vermiform1 #c ,apron1 #adi -- of barge-woman1 milk-woman1 and hospital nurse1 #aej -- -- bishop1 a vestige of the cassock1 #bjj -- -- housemaid1 #adi -- -- ,judy1 #bfc1 #bfc -- -- masons1 #bcb -- -- nuns1 #bjb -- -- ,queen ,anne1 #aej ,aprons1 tiger skin1 of ,leicestershire ,regiment1 #bdi ,arab women1 #abb -- -- ideas of modesty1 #bjg ,arabs use folds of robes as pockets1 #aaj ,archers1 ,scottish1 coats of1 #bbf ,aria1 ,mrs41 on the ancestress of the straight-fronted specialit corset1 #ccg -- -- on the unwritten laws that rule the wearing of a mask1 #bha ,armlets conferred on soldiers1 #aad -- need for cooling1 in some climates1 #aad ,armorial bearings on ladies' dresses1 #hd1 #he ,armour1 #hc -- a development of dress1 #ab -- of chargers1 #bib ,arms1 coat of1 #hc -- of ,england1 #hf -- -- schools and colleges1 #ij -- -- ,thomas ,becket1 #aih ,arran murder case1 #agh ,arrow-head amulets1 #bif ,arrow-heads1 flint1 as pendants1 #abc ,arts1 gown of master of1 #baj -- hood of bachelor of1 #bab ,atella1 celebrated for ,italian farces1 #bed ,athletic clubs1 parti-coloured dress of1 #cac ,aurelian1 distribution of oraria by1 #aib ,austria1 ,emperor of1 #bdd ,austrian1 dress of the1 #cah ,axe for killing wounded horses1 #bdb ,ayahs1 nose-rings of1 #aaa ,babylon1 finger-rings in1 #aad ,baby's glove without fingers1 #id1 #ie ,bachelor of ,arts1 hood of1 #bab ,badge and crest1 difference between1 #ij -- broad arrow1 #ia -- of ,black ,prince1 #hh -- -- ,edward ,,iii1 #ia -- -- the porters of the ,inner ,temple1 #ia ,badges1 hereditary1 #ij -- signs derived from royal1 #ia -- regimental1 #bdc1 #bde -- of ,gloucestershire regiment1 #bde -- -- private firemen1 #ia ,badges of the ,yeomen of the ,guard1 #bbd1 #bbd -- -- ,watermen1 #ia -- worn by the ,marquis of ,abergavenny1 #ia ,bag-wig1 vestige of the1 #acc1 #acd1 #adc1 #adc1 #bbh1 #bbi ,baildon1 ,mr4 ,paley1 on new garments put over old1 #adh -- -- -- -- the coif1 #baf ,baldric1 #ajf -- modern use of1 #ajf -- ornamented with bells1 #ajh1 #ajh ,ballrooms1 bare necks in1 #ad ,band1 black on arm as mourning1 #ahb -- chin1 #bjb1 #bjc -- hat1 #eb ,bandaged stockings of ,anglo-,saxons1 #fg ,bandages1 leg1 #ff1 #ff1 #fg ,bandbox1 #df1 #dg ,bandoleer1 on baldric1 #ajh ,bands1 #dd1 #de -- of barristers1 #dd -- -- blue-coat boys1 #dd1 #de -- -- choristers at ,jesus ,college1 ,cambridge1 #de1 #de -- -- ,jan ,steen1 #df1 #df -- -- ,john ,pym1 #df1 #df -- -- ,milton1 #df -- -- small boys1 #dg1 #dg -- -- the legal profession1 #bai -- -- ,winchester scholars1 #afi -- on a lady's nightgown1 #bhh1 #bhi -- worn with a black ,geneva gown1 #dd1 #ahe ,bantams1 booted1 #cjc -- frizzled1 #cjc ,baptism1 vestments used at1 #afd ,barbarians wore trousers1 #gg1 #gh ,barge women1 apron of1 #aej2 ,plate ,,viii facing page #aej -- -- costume of1 #aaj -- -- sun-bonnet of1 #fa2 ,plate ,,viii facing page #aej ,barme-cloth 7apron71 #aej ,barons of the ,exchequer1 robes of1 #bah ,barristers' bands1 #dd -- gown1 #bah1 #bai -- wigs1 #acb ,basquine1 #cbe ,baton of drum-major1 #bda -- -- ,field-,marshal1 #bbc ,beadle1 dress of1 #adg1 #bfd -- in ,punch and ,judy1 #adg1 #bfb1 #bfd ,beads as currencies1 #aac -- blue popo1 worth their weight in gold1 #aac -- early used in ,england1 #aab -- from ,egypt1 #aac -- of the prehistoric ,egyptians1 #aab -- still fashionable1 #aab ,beagle1 ,h4,m4,s41 voyage of1 #aa ,beard of ,edward ,,ii1 #acj -- -- -- ,,iii1 #abi ,beards1 closely shaved by ,normans1 #abi -- -- -- in ,edward ,,iv's time1 #acj -- cut by ,romans1 #abi -- parted or trimmed by ,saxons1 #abi ,bedford1 ,duchess of1 riding habit of1 #bea ,bedgown1 woman executed in a1 #bij ,beefeaters1 cap of1 #afh ,bells as ornaments1 derived from flowers1 #cad ,belt of groom1 #adj -- -- -- origin of1 #aci ,belts1 ,dr4 ,cantlie on the use of1 #cef -- worn by navvies1 #cbi ,bernard1 on blowing the nose on the chasuble1 #aie ,bhurtpore1 battle of1 #bdd ,bib1 #aej -- of infant1 #afg ,bibliography1 #cfc-g ,bigg1 ,mr4 ,heather1 on the erect position of man1 #ccj1 #cca -- -- -- -- -- rapid loss of beauty in native girls1 #cbh -- -- -- -- -- use of stays1 #cbf1 #cbg ,billet1 sign of the ,crooked1 #adf ,binder of infant1 #afc ,biretta1 evolution of1 #bac ,bishop1 hat of1 #bad1 #bad -- method of buttoning trousers1 #beb -- rochet1 chimere1 and lawn sleeves of1 #aii ,black as mourning1 #aha ,bloomer1 ,mrs41 #ha1 #cef -- -- dress of1 #cfa ,bloomers1 ,dr4 ,bernard ,o',connor on1 #cfa ,blouse1 blue1 of the butcher1 #cjg1 #cbj ,blue blouse of butcher1 #cjg1 #cbj -- coat boys1 #afg -- -- -- bands of1 #dd1 #de -- favours1 #cjg ,boadicea1 dress of1 #cab ,boar1 wild1 spotted when young1 #id ,bohemians1 the ,king of the1 wore no ostrich feathers1 #ia ,body1 clothes used to alter the shape of1 #ccg ,boiler cleaners1 combination garments of1 #cbj ,bone inserted into prehistoric skulls1 #ccf -- pin1 #aje ,boots1 jack1 #bce -- of bridegrooms removed by brides in ,russia1 #agg -- ornamentation of modern1 #fb1 #fc -- top1 #fe1 #fe -- -- upper parts now immovable1 #ff1 #ff ,borough ,councillors1 robes of1 #ach ,bouquets carried by coxswains on the ,fourth of ,june at ,eton1 #aga ,bows inside ladies' hats1 #eg1 #eh -- of silk ribbon inside hat1 #ed1 #ee ,boy catching an object in his lap1 #cda ,boys1 blue-coat1 #afg -- colour preferences of1 #cjg -- dressed as soldiers1 #afc -- petticoats of1 #afe ,brace in which the straps are not united1 #cef ,bracelets1 #i -- need to be cooled in some climates1 #aad ,brandenburg1 ,albrect von1 with two palls1 #aig ,brandon1 ,john1 brass to1 #ch ,brasses1 #ch1 ,plate ,,iv1 #hf1 #hf1 #bcd1 #bcd -- chrysome1 #afd ,brats1 #cjj ,breast cloth of nun1 #bjb1 #bjc -- plate of horse1 amulets on1 #bid ,breasts1 bare1 in ,ancient ,egypt1 #gd1 #ge -- -- in ,korea1 #ge1 #ge -- -- in the time of ,james ,i1 #gf ,breeches1 knee1 #gi -- of ,lord ,darnley1 #bhf -- origin of the word1 #caa -- petticoat1 of sailors1 #beb -- plush1 #adj1 #ada -- stuffed1 #ccg -- ,venetian1 of pantaloon1 #bhd ,bridesmaids1 origin of presents made to1 by bridegroom1 #age ,bristol1 ,red ,maid ,school of1 #afh ,broad arrow badge1 #ia ,bronze ,age chieftains1 dress of1 #ah1 #ai -- -- people wore deerskin cloaks retaining horns1 #aag -- pins1 #aje ,brooch1 #abb -- safety-pin like an ,etruscan1 #ajb1 #ajc -- the buckle1 a1 without hasp1 #abe ,brooches1 pin ring1 #abe -- to fasten tunic1 #ag1 #ag ,buckle1 #abe ,bulgaria1 shoe money in1 #agg ,burden1 primitive method of carrying a1 #ajf1 #ajg ,busbies1 caricatures of1 #bdg1 #bdh ,busby1 #bch -- development of1 #ei -- of ,rifle ,brigade1 #bdb -- origin of the1 ,sir ,george ,darwin on1 #eh1 #ei -- red flap on1 #ei1 #ei ,buskins1 #aie ,bust1 padding used to improve the1 #cch ,butcher's blue blouse1 #cbj ,butterman1 white clothes of1 #cbj ,button1 #aah -- covered with crape1 #bdc -- ,mr4 ,p4 ,w4 ,reynolds on the survival of a1 #bdh ,buttonholes1 exaggerated on uniforms1 #dj -- knotched1 #adf -- laced1 #adf -- on the backs of coats1 #bg1 #bg1 #bh1 #bh ,buttons1 #bd1 #bdh -- antiquity of1 #abj -- as chronicles1 #be -- done up differently by men and women1 #ba1 #bc -- horizontal row of1 on sleeve1 #cf1 #cf -- meaningless1 on ladies' dresses1 #abj -- numerous1 on sleeve of undervest1 #ch2 ,plate ,,iv1 facing page #ch -- of brass on ,dutch skeleton dress1 #ade1 #ade -- -- ,legion of ,honour1 #aeh -- -- man's coat on right side1 #bj1 #bj -- -- page boys1 #add1 #ade -- -- woman's coat on left side1 #bj1 #ba -- on coats of ,grenadier ,guards1 #bi -- -- cuffs1 #ce1 #ce -- -- overcoats of ,commissionaires1 #cj -- -- postilion's jackets1 #ch -- -- sleeves of clergy1 #cf -- -- the back of coats1 #bf1 #bf1 #bg1 #bh1 #bi1 #ca1 #cb1 #cc1 #cd -- -- the back of tramway driver's coats1 #cj1 #ca -- problematical1 #ae ,buttons replaced by knobs in the ,east1 #bj -- vertical row on sleeve1 #cg ,calthrop1 ,mr41 on survivals of the chaperon1 #aeh -- -- -- the costume of ,harlequin1 #bhc -- -- -- -- evolution of the cockade1 #aef -- -- -- -- origin of the cockade1 #aei ,camels1 cowry shells on the trappings of1 #big1 #bii ,cameron ,erracht tartan1 #bdb -- tartan1 #bdb ,canaries1 yellow1 #cjc ,cane of drill sergeant1 #bda ,canes1 be-ribboned1 #abd -- tasselled1 #abe ,cannibalism1 probable origin of1 #ccg ,canterbury ,cathedral1 shield1 helmet1 and surcoat of ,black ,prince in1 #hg1 #hh1 #hi ,cantlie1 ,dr41 on short jackets1 #cef -- -- -- the effect of insufficient clothing1 #cee1 #ceg -- -- -- -- use of belts1 #cef ,cap1 college1 #dg1 #afi1 #bab1 #bad -- ,hungarian1 #bch -- judge's sentence1 #bag -- line of ,lancers1 #bda -- livery1 #adf -- of ,beefeaters1 #afh -- -- dignity1 ecclesiastical1 #bac -- -- housemaid1 #adi -- -- ,hungarian peasant1 #ei1 #ei -- -- nuns1 #bja1 #bjc1 #bjd -- -- the ,lancers1 a ,polish head-dress1 #bci -- ,scotch1 streamers of1 #ec1 #ed -- statute1 #afh1 #cdh -- ,tudor flat1 #bad ,cape1 combined with hood1 #aef1 #aeg ,caps not to be worn by married women1 #cej ,cards1 playing1 show ,tudor dresses1 #bca ,carolines1 haircombs of ,west1 #aah ,cases of brass for waiters' buttons1 #add ,cassock1 #bjj -- of ,benedictines1 #aih -- once generally worn1 #ahf ,casula1 forerunner of the chasuble1 #aib ,cater cap1 #bab ,cattle1 hornless1 #cjc ,cavalryman1 modern1 compared with ,cromwell's ,ironsides1 #bcg1 #bcg ,cave men1 drawings of1 #h1 #i1 #aj -- -- painting of the body by1 #bgj -- -- wore ornaments but no clothing1 #h ,ceremony1 primitive dress worn on occasions of1 #e1 #ace ,chaco of ,highland ,light ,infantry1 #bda -- -- ,scottish ,rifles1 #bda ,chain mail1 #bcc1 #bcd1 #bcd ,chains for the neck in ,richard ,,ii's time1 #aac -- of ,mayors1 origin of1 #aac ,chancellor of a ,university1 robes of a1 #baj ,chapel keeper at ,wellington ,barracks1 top hat of1 #bdh ,chaperon1 #aeb -- development of1 #aef1 #aeg1 #aeg -- of ,richard ,,ii's time1 #aeg -- survival of1 #bbh -- vestige on gowns of ,city ,livery ,companies1 #bca -- -- -- mantles of knights1 #aeh1 #bcj ,chaplet of flowers used after baptism1 #afd ,charles ,i regulates clerical costume1 #ahe -- ,,ii1 formation of ,guards by1 #bdf ,chasuble1 #aic1 #aid -- casula1 the forerunner of1 #aib ,chauffeurs' cockades1 #afj ,checks1 #caa ,chemise1 #bhh -- gauze1 of ,merveilleuses1 #cdf ,chevasse1 ,mr41 on individuality shown by clothes1 #caf ,children carried on the left arm1 #bb -- dressed like their parents1 #afb -- sucking the left breast1 #bd ,chimere1 #aii ,chimpanzee1 hair of1 #f ,china1 painted pasteboard figures burnt at funerals in1 #bgd -- puppet-show in1 #bei -- the use of paint by women in1 #bge ,chin band1 #bja1 #bjb1 #bjc ,chinese women1 stunted foot of1 #cce ,chinook ,indians1 deforming the heads of children1 #cce ,chiton1 #ahg ,choker1 #bjj ,choristers at ,jesus ,college1 ,cambridge1 bands of1 #de1 #de ,chrism cloth1 #afd ,christians1 dress of ancient1 #ahg -- early1 wore the same costume at worship as at home1 #ahi ,christ's ,hospital1 #afg ,chrysalis1 #afc ,chrysolite as a detector of poison1 #abd ,chrysome1 #afd -- brasses1 #afd ,chulos in bull fight1 red rag of1 #cjf ,churches1 ,gothic1 compared with hennin-like head-dress1 #ej1 #ea ,clans1 tartans of ,scotch1 #cab -- with several tartans1 #cab ,claremont1 ,mr41 on opals and bad luck1 #abd ,clark1 ,professor ,e4 ,c41 on college caps1 #bac ,clavi1 #aia ,clement1 ,st41 on special dress for worship1 #bje ,clergy1 adoption of vestments by ,english ,high ,church1 #aib -- black habit of1 #cjh -- buttons on sleeves of1 #cf -- condemnation of dress by1 #cdd -- criticized for gorgeous apparel1 #cde -- in ,holland1 dresses of1 #bjj -- wear academical hood over surplice1 #aii1 #bab ,cloaks1 deer skin1 of ,bronze ,age people1 retaining horns1 #aag ,clock1 meaning a gusset1 #fh1 #fh -- origin of1 #fh ,clocks of clowns1 #bfi ,cloth1 breast1 #bjb1 #bjc -- chrism1 #afd -- pied1 #cac -- parti-coloured1 #cac ,clothes1 adopted for sthetic reasons1 #ad -- -- -- reasons of coquetry1 #ad -- adoption of1 for ornamentation1 #h -- -- -- -- reasons of modesty1 #h -- -- -- -- warmth1 #h -- dispensed with on ceremonial occasions1 #acf -- distortions caused by1 #cbb -- effect upon action1 #cda -- -- of1 upon the outsider1 #cae -- everyday1 worn at night1 #bhg -- first worn by women1 #ab -- in their development subject to the same laws that act upon the bodies of animals1 #cfb -- made from the bark of trees1 #aa -- mental effect of1 #cci -- minimum of1 worn at sports1 #f -- not necessarily worn in cold climates1 #aa -- -- worn at night1 #bhg -- of animal actors1 #cja -- -- dolls1 #acg -- -- monkeys1 #cja -- -- ,punch1 origin of1 #beg -- represented among animals1 #bia -- ,sunday1 #bje -- swaddling1 #afc -- the principles of evolution applied to1 #a -- used to alter the shape of the body1 #ccg -- useful characters always retained1 #ae -- why worn1 #h -- worn at executions1 become unfashionable1 #cec 7,see also under the headings of ,costume and ,dress7 ,clothing1 not worn by cave men1 #h -- preferences of girls for different articles of1 #cdj1 #cda ,clown1 #bhc -- clocks of1 #bfi ,clowns1 painting of1 likened to that once in vogue in ,china and ,japan1 #bgf -- paint of face of1 #bfi ,clubbed hair1 #acd ,coachman1 coat of1 #adb1 #adb -- ,lord ,mayor's1 wig-bag of1 #adc1 #adc -- origin of dress1 #aci -- red coat of royal1 #bce -- wig of1 #acb1 #adb1 #adb ,coastguard1 revers of1 buttoned back1 #ci ,coat1 blue in sixteenth century1 #afh -- buff1 #bce -- development of the modern1 #ae -- evolved from the shawl1 #af -- lapels1 nicks in1 #da1 #da1 #db -- patched1 of harlequin1 #bhc -- pouter1 #ada1 #ada -- red1 a best1 #bce -- -- origin of1 #bdi -- -- survived for a long time in ,cornwall1 #bce -- skirts buttoned back for riding1 #cc -- swallow-tail1 evolution of1 #cc1 #cd ,coats at ,harrow1 #afi -- -- ,westminster1 #afi -- of arms1 #hc -- -- ,scottish ,archers1 #bbf ,coats1 waterproof of1 lambs1 #cjj ,cobbett1 criticisms on ,quakers1 #aai ,cock of a hat1 #fa ,cockade1 #fa1 #aeb1 #aeb -- black1 #aec -- bow of ribbon on1 #aef -- evolution of1 #aec1 #aef1 #aeg -- for mourning1 #aed1 #aed1 #aei -- jagged edges of1 #aeh -- material of1 #aed -- of ,chelsea pensioners1 #aee1 #aef -- -- ,danish ambassadors1 #afj -- -- ,french ambassadors1 #afj -- -- of various colours1 #aeh -- regent1 #aee1 #aef1 #aei -- royal1 #aed1 #aee1 #aee1 #aei -- treble1 #aeb1 #aef ,cockades1 not under the jurisdiction of ,heralds' ,college or ,lord ,chamberlain1 #aec -- of foreign ambassadors1 #afj -- -- chauffeurs1 #afj -- those entitled to use1 #aec1 #aei -- worn by gentlemen1 #aeb ,cocking1 #bjj ,coffins1 ,bronze ,age1 #ah ,coif of ,serjeant-at-law1 #baf -- ,order of the1 #bae -- vestige of1 #bae1 #bag ,coin1 custom of breaking1 upon engagement1 #aae ,coldstream ,regiment1 motto of1 #bdf ,collar1 broad lace1 at ,eton1 #afi -- silver worn by additional drummer1 #bdd ,collars1 high1 keep the head at a wrong angle1 #cef -- metal of ,padaung women1 #aad2 ,plate ,,vi1 facing page #aad -- of ,court ushers and vergers1 #bah -- -- ladies' mantles standing up1 #dh -- -- nuns1 #bjb -- worn by pet animals1 #bih ,colobium sindonis1 #bba ,colonial1 dress of the1 #cai ,colour1 craving for1 shown by the gorgeous dress of ,masons1 #cjh -- -- -- -- -- green scarfs of the ,foresters1 #cjh -- -- -- -- -- pageants1 #cjf -- of academical dress1 #cji ,colours1 #aib -- gay uniforms come under the category of courtship1 #bej -- heraldic1 derived from flags1 still worn1 #cjh -- house1 #aga -- of ancient drawings due to caprice of artists1 #aca -- -- ,naval uniform1 #bea -- -- regiments1 #cji ,columbine1 ballet dress of1 #bhe ,comb as an ornament1 #aag1 #aah ,combs1 hair1 #aah1 #aah -- loom1 the origin of the ornamental comb1 #aag1 #aah ,combination garments of boiler cleaners1 #cbj -- -- -- ,normans1 #cbj ,coombe ,hill ,school1 ,westerham1 dress worn by girls at1 #agb1 #agb ,commissionaires1 buttons on overcoats of1 #cj ,companies1 ,livery1 robes of1 #ach ,complexions1 false1 of ,roman ladies1 #bgh ,convicts' dress1 #ia ,cope1 #aig1 #aii -- of fifteenth century1 #bab ,cornish1 ,mr4 ,c4 ,j41 on animals' clothes1 #cjj ,corps piqu1 ,montaigne and ,ambrose ,par on the suffering caused by the1 #cbe ,corroboree1 paint used at a1 #bgb ,corset1 misspelling of the word1 #cbc -- of ,greece1 #cbh -- -- ,rome1 #cbh ,corsets1 crusade against1 #cbe ,cosmetics used by ,roman ladies1 #bgh ,costermongers1 dress of1 #cai -- trousers of1 show progress of wearer's courtship1 #cdg ,costume1 clerical1 regulated by ,charles ,i1 #ahe -- connected with religion1 #ahd -- ecclesiastical1 similar to civil in early times1 #ahh -- of barge-women1 #aaj -- -- the clown1 ,elizabethan1 #bfi1 #bgj -- -- dolls1 #bfg -- -- milk-women1 #aaj -- -- nuns and abbesses resembled that of widows1 #aih -- -- servants'1 derived from that of masters1 #aci -- indicating the profession of the wearer1 #caf ,costumes adopted in girls' schools1 #aga -- of hospitals for pensioners1 #agj -- ugliness of bloomers1 #ha1 #cfj 7,see also under the headings of ,clothes and ,dress7 ,coulton1 ,mr4 ,g4 ,c41 on the evolution of the maniple from a pocket-handkerchief1 #aid ,courier bags carried on a baldric1 #ajf1 #ajg ,court dress1 mistakes made in1 #bbg -- ushers1 collars of1 #bah ,coventry1 ,lady1 death due to painting the face1 #bgi ,cowboy's long hair1 #abg ,cows1 clothing of1 #cjj -- rainproof jackets of1 #cjj ,cradle of ,american ,indian papoose1 #afd ,cranmer1 hat of1 #bad ,crescent as an amulet among the ,romans1 #bic -- made by joining two boars' tusks1 #bid -- worn on a special strap by ,german horses1 #bie ,crest and badge1 difference between1 #ij -- -- surcoat of ,henry ,duke of ,lancaster1 #hf1 #hf -- on helmet1 #hc -- -- signet ring1 #he -- worn upon cap of ,lord ,mayor's postilion1 #ib1 #ib ,creel carried on a baldric1 #ajf ,crinoline1 #ccg -- devised to hide the shape of a princess1 #cdd -- of the young women of ,otaheite1 #cch ,croft ,school1 ,betley1 dress worn by girls at1 #agc1 #agc ,crombie1 ,mr4 ,james1 on superstitions connected with weddings1 #agf ,crook1 shepherd's1 #aie ,crosier1 #bba ,cross of nuns1 #bjb -- older than ,christianity1 #abb ,cross-belt of ,rifle ,brigade1 #bdb ,crown1 #aeh1 #bba -- bridal1 #ahj -- ,tudor1 superseded that of ,st4 ,edward1 #bbd1 #bbd ,crusaders1 #cdd ,cuff1 turned back1 #ce1 #cf1 #cg1 #ch ,cuffs1 #ce -- of widow1 #ahc -- white lawn1 used as mourning by ,king's ,counsel1 #bbj -- worn by the legal profession as part of mourning1 #ahc ,cuirass of ,household troops1 #bcc ,culloden1 battle of1 #bdi ,currencies carried on the person1 #aac -- ornaments as1 #aab ,cussan's ,handbook of ,heraldry1 #aei ,custom of breaking a coin upon engagement1 #aae ,dalmatic1 #aij1 #aie1 #bba -- compared with a shirt1 #bhh -- of ,bishop1 fringes on1 #aij -- -- deacon1 fringes on left side only1 #aia -- symbolism of fringes1 #aia ,damascus1 damask takes its name from1 #cac ,damask takes its name from ,damascus1 #cac ,dane1 dress of the1 #cai ,darnley1 ,lord1 breeches of1 #bhf ,darwin1 ,charles1 on the loss of hair by man1 #g -- -- theory of evolution1 #b -- ,sir ,george1 on buttons1 #cj -- -- -- -- evolution in dress1 #c -- -- -- -- the origin of busbies1 #eh1 #ei -- -- -- -- top boots1 #fe1 #fe -- -- -- -- why plumes are on the left side1 #eh1 #eh ,d',aubernoun1 ,sir ,john1 brass of1 showing chain-mail1 #bcd ,david1 shield of1 #bic ,dawkins1 ,professor ,boyd1 on the origin of the hair comb1 #aag ,deacons1 stoles of1 #aib ,deaths due to painting the face1 #bgi ,decoys1 dogs dressed as duck1 #cja ,deformities caused by bandaging infants1 #afd ,demeter1 #big ,denmark1 dress of ,bronze ,age chieftains1 #ah1 #ai ,depression in a judge's wig1 #bae1 #baf ,diamond1 supposed powers of the1 #abd ,diamonds1 always fashionable1 #abc ,diaper appeared in reign of ,henry ,,ii1 #cac -- derived from ,d',ypres1 #cac ,dinners1 handkerchief used for wrapping1 #aie ,diodorus on the plaid of1 #cab ,distortion of the head1 #ccf ,divorce1 ,bedouin form of1 #agh ,djibah1 #agb1 #agc ,doctor in the ,punch and ,judy show1 #bfc1 #bfd -- of ,divinity1 scarf of1 #aib -- round cap of1 #bac ,dogs1 dress of1 as duck decoys1 #cja -- hairless1 #cjc ,dolls1 clothes of1 #acg -- costume1 #bfg -- in swaddling clothes1 ,mr4 ,edward ,lovett on1 #bfh ,dolman of the ,hussars1 #ha1 #bci ,donkeys1 cowry shells on trappings of1 #big ,drawings of cave men1 #h1 #i1 #aj ,dress1 academical1 #bjh -- -- ,druitt on1 #baj -- bridal1 #age -- characteristic of trades1 #cbj -- children's1 ,dr4 ,alice ,vickery on1 #afe -- colour in academical1 #cji -- condemnation of1 by the clergy1 #cdd -- ,court1 #bbf -- -- mistakes made in1 #bbg -- does not usually show rank1 #cai -- ,dutch skeleton1 #ade1 #ade -- evening1 black and white1 #cjh -- -- suggests correct behaviour1 #cdj -- ,highland1 #afb -- ,league1 ,rational1 #ced -- monastic1 #aih -- more primitive1 worn on occasions of ceremony1 #ace -- naval1 supposed survivals in1 #beb -- of acrobats1 #bhf -- -- ancient ,christians1 #ahg -- -- animals1 #bia -- -- beadles1 #adg1 #bfb1 #bfd -- -- coachmen1 origin of1 #aci -- -- convicts1 #ia -- -- costermongers1 #cai -- -- footmen1 origin of1 #aci -- -- girls at ,coombe ,hill ,school1 ,westerham1 #aga1 #agb -- -- -- -- the ,croft ,school1 ,betley1 #agc1 #agc -- -- grooms1 origin of1 #aci -- -- harlequins1 #bhc -- -- heads of churches in ,scotland1 #bjj -- -- jockeys1 coloured1 #adg -- -- ,king's ,counsel1 #bah -- -- ,knights of ,st4 ,john of ,jerusalem1 #cba -- -- monks1 #bja -- -- ,mrs4 ,bloomer1 #ha1 #cfa ,dress of ,norwegian bride1 #ahj -- -- nuns1 #bja1 #bjc -- -- particular trades1 #adi -- -- peasants1 gay1 #cji -- -- ,punch and ,judy1 #acg1 #bec -- -- ,romans1 #ahg -- -- servants1 #aci -- -- the ,american1 #cah -- -- -- ,austrian1 #cah -- -- -- ,colonial1 #cai -- -- -- ,dane1 #cai -- -- -- ,frenchman1 #cah -- -- -- ,german1 #cah -- -- -- ,hungarian1 #cah -- -- -- ,norwegian1 #cai -- -- -- ,spaniard1 #cah -- -- ,st4 ,nicholas1 #acg -- -- soldiers previous to the ,restoration1 #bcf -- -- ,yeomen of the ,guard1 #bbc1 #bbe -- once indicated rank1 #cai -- origin of1 #f -- parti-coloured1 came into fashion in ,edward ,,ii's time1 #cac -- profession often not indicated by1 #cae -- rank indicated in certain professions by1 #cbj -- rational1 #ha1 #cfa -- reform1 #ced -- simplification of ,court1 #bbf -- special1 for worship1 #bje -- tax on elegant1 #cej -- to be according to station1 #cej -- ugliness of evening1 #bjh -- ,union1 ,healthy and ,artistic1 #ced -- used in special occupations1 #cbj ,dresses1 bridal1 often survivals1 #ahj -- special school1 #afh -- with trains to be kept for ceremonial occasions1 #ceh ,dressing-gowns1 #ach1 #ceh ,drops for ears1 #aab ,druitt1 ,mr41 on academical dress1 #baj -- -- -- boys dressed in petticoats1 #afe -- -- -- the coif1 #baf ,drummer1 extra of ,third ,hussars1 #bdd ,dutch settler's wife1 ,miss ,alice ,morse ,earle on the dress of1 #cei -- skeleton dress1 #ade1 #ade1 #bgb ,dyes for tartans obtained from native plants1 #cac ,eagles on coronation robe1 #bbb ,ear drops1 #aab ,ears1 perforated for rings1 #aab ,earle1 ,miss ,alice ,morse1 on the costume of the wife of a ,dutch settler1 #cei ,eckenstein1 ,miss ,lina1 on horse brasses1 #bic ,edward ,,ii1 beard of1 #acj -- ,,iii1 badge of1 #ia -- -- beard of1 #abi -- ,,iv1 beard of1 closely shaven1 #acj -- ,,vii1 robes worn at the coronation of1 #bbb ,egypt1 finger rings in1 #aad ,egyptian graves1 models of servants put into1 #bfh -- pins1 #aje -- rings of blue pottery1 #aaf ,egyptians1 ancient1 bury amulets with their dead1 #abb -- blackening eyelids1 #bgj -- early1 tattooing practised by1 #bgg -- modern1 tattooing practised by1 #bgg -- prehistoric1 beads of1 #aab ,elizabeth1 statute cap of1 #afh -- ,queen1 stocking of1 #fh ,elizabeth's coronation glove1 stitching carried on to the back of1 #ig1 #ih -- reign1 ruffs of1 #dh ,elsyng1 brass in church at1 #hf1 #hf ,elves' arrows as pendants1 #abc ,elworthy1 ,mr41 on horns of honour1 #aag ,embroidery carried on to the backs of gloves1 #ih1 #ii ,emeralds always fashionable1 #abc ,epaulettes1 #bch -- worn by the ,gentlemen-at-,arms1 #bch -- -- -- officers of the ,yeomen of the ,guard1 #bch -- -- -- the ,lords-,lieutenant of ,counties1 #bch -- -- in the ,navy1 #bch ,ermine1 #bbb -- bands of1 indicate rank1 #bbc ,eskimos descendants of the cave men1 #aj -- shoes1 piece of old1 worn by1 to ensure fruitfulness1 #agh ,essex1 fish-hooks made of thorns in1 #abe ,eton1 gowns worn by scholars at1 #afi -- jacket1 #afi -- white tie at1 #afi ,etruscan brooch1 safety-pin like an1 #ajb1 #ajc ,eutropius1 ,st41 ceremony of garters1 #ga ,evolution1 the principles applied to clothes1 #a ,ewart1 ,sergeant1 captures a ,french eagle1 #bde ,eyelashes1 removal of1 #abh -- lid1 blackening of1 by ,egyptians1 #bgj -- sacred on rings1 #aag -- stone or opal1 #abd -- third in slow worm1 #c ,executions1 clothes worn at1 become unfashionable1 #cec ,face plate of horse1 amulets on1 #bid -- sooty1 of harlequin1 #bhc ,facings1 regimental1 abolished in #ahha1 #bch -- why a different colour from that of the coat1 #cd ,fairholt on bandaged stockings1 #fg1 #fg -- -- the origin of the mortar-board1 #bad ,fans called sunshades1 #bhj -- for blowing up a fire1 #bhj -- origin of1 #bhj ,farces1 ,atella1 celebrated for ,italian1 #bed ,farthingale1 #ccg ,fashion determines the amount of the body which is to be covered1 #ad ,fashions due to royal peculiarities1 #aca -- gay1 follow periods of depression1 #cde -- in hair arrangement1 #abf -- kept up by superstitions1 #cdi -- origin of1 difficult to trace1 #ced -- the killing of1 #ceb ,favours1 #aib ,fawkes1 ,guy1 #bbe ,feathers1 objections to the wearing of1 #aba -- of birds of paradise1 #aba -- -- ostriches1 #abb -- peacocks'1 unlucky because of eyes1 #abd -- wearing of1 #aba ,ficorroni1 #beh ,field-,marshal's baton1 #bbc ,fillet1 #age -- forerunner of the hatband1 #eb1 #eb -- head1 #adi -- vestiges of1 #eb1 #eb ,finn1 ,huckleberry1 #cda -- ,mrs41 on bells derived from flowers1 #cad ,fireman1 helmet of1 #fj1 #fj -- private1 badge of1 #ia ,fisher folk1 barefooted1 #ccd ,fish1 gold1 with several tails1 #cjc -- hook made of a thorn in ,essex1 #abe ,fitzroy1 ,general1 #bdd ,flaccus1 ,dr4 ,louis ,w41 on the effect of clothes on the minds of school-girls1 #cci1 #cdj -- -- -- -- -- -- preference of girls for different articles of clothing1 #cdj1 #cda ,flags1 heraldic colours of1 still worn as favours1 #cjh ,flap1 red1 on busby1 #ei1 #ei ,flash on ,court dress1 #bbh1 #bbi -- of ,welsh ,fusiliers1 #acc1 #acd1 #bda ,fleshings1 pink1 of ,merveilleuses1 #cdf ,fleur-de-lys1 #bbb1 #bic -- on braid of drummers of the ,guards1 #bdf -- removed from royal arms1 #bdf ,flower1 ,sir ,william1 on deforming of the foot1 #ccd -- -- -- -- injuries caused by tight lacing1 #cbd -- -- -- -- the most highly evolved foot1 #ccc ,flowers1 chaplet of1 used after baptism1 #afd -- wearing of1 #aba -- worn at ,eton on ,fourth of ,june1 #aga -- -- by a bride1 #age ,folds of robes used as pockets by ,arabs1 #aaj ,foot1 deforming of the1 #ccd -- gear1 early1 #fb -- ,guards1 drum-major's livery cap1 #adf -- ,sir ,william ,flower on deforming of the1 #ccd -- -- -- -- -- the most highly evolved1 #ccc -- stunted1 of ,chinese woman1 #cce -- the ideal in art1 #ccc1 #ccd ,footman1 #adj1 #ada1 #adi -- origin of dress1 #aci ,footmen1 aiguillettes worn by1 #bdj -- flaps of1 #cb1 #cc -- wig of1 #acb -- with powdered hair1 #aca ,fourchettes of gloves1 #ig1 #ih ,fourragre1 #bda ,fowls1 top-knotted1 #cjc ,fox-hunters1 red coat of1 #bce ,frenchman1 dress of1 #cah ,frills1 #bbg ,fringe of a shawl1 origin of1 #af ,fringes1 ,mr4 ,macalister on symbolism of1 on dalmatics1 #aia ,frock coat1 #adh ,frontal of nun1 #bjc1 #bjd ,fruitfulness1 superstitious practices to ensure1 #agi1 #ahj ,funerals1 horse trappings still used at1 #bib -- painted pasteboard figures burnt in ,china at1 #bgd ,fur1 #aa -- use of1 in the army1 #bdg ,fusiliers1 ,welsh1 flash of1 #acc1 #acd ,fylfot1 #abb2 see ,plate ,,vii1 ,fig4 ,f1 facing page #abi ,gagging1 art of1 not modern1 #bed ,gaiters1 #gj ,garlands1 wearing of1 signifies virginity1 #ahj ,garment1 new1 put on over old1 #adh ,garments1 dislike of divided1 #cei -- flowing1 give an elegant effect1 #acg1 #ceg -- -- -- dignity1 #ahg1 #ceg -- long1 of ,noah's ,ark figures1 #bfh ,garter1 #aeh ,garters as insignia1 #ga -- golden1 of ,merveilleuses1 #cdf -- of girls1 annual ceremony in ,haute-,vienne1 #ga -- ornamental1 #ga ,gatty1 ,sir ,alfred ,scott1 on cockades1 #aec ,gauntlets worn by masons1 #bcb ,gentleman of ,george ,,iii's time1 #ada1 #adc ,george ,,ii's reign1 coachman1 coat of1 #adb1 #adb -- -- on naval uniform1 #bea -- ,,iii1 black coats at ,eton1 mourning for1 #afi -- -- gentleman's dress1 #ada1 #adc -- ,,iii's reign1 the pouter coat of1 #ada ,german1 dress of the1 #cah ,germs of disease disseminated by trailing skirts1 #ceh ,giangurgolo1 ,calabrian1 #agca1 #beg1 #beg ,gimmal rings1 #aae ,girdle1 #gc -- of judge1 #bag ,girl catching an object in her lap1 #cda ,girls1 colour preferences of1 #cjg -- in factories1 barefooted1 #ccd -- wearing their hair down1 #aff ,gladstone1 ,mr41 abolished the serjeants-at-law1 #bag ,gloucestershire regiment1 badges of1 #bde ,glove of ,anne1 ,consort of ,james ,i1 #ih1 #ii -- stitching carried on to the back of ,elizabeth's coronation1 #ig1 #ih -- -- -- down the back of1 #ig1 #ih ,gloves1 #id1 #aie -- early1 without fingers1 #id -- embroidery carried on to the backs of1 #ih1 #ii -- fourchettes of1 #ig1 #ih -- not worn by nuns1 #bjd -- points on1 #if1 #ih -- with two thumbs in ,iceland1 #ie ,god1 solar1 of ,egypt1 #abc ,gold dust put on the head1 #aca ,golfers1 red coat of1 #bce ,gordon1 ,miss ,helen1 on painting used in the time of ,queen ,anne1 #bgi ,gorget the badge of an officer on duty1 #bce ,gorilla1 hair of1 #f ,gown1 #ah -- black1 #ahe -- ,geneva1 bands worn with1 #dd -- of judge1 #bag -- -- ,king's ,counsel1 #bah -- -- ,master of ,arts1 #baj -- -- ,oxford ,undergraduates1 #baj ,gowns1 black1 legal mourning for ,queen ,mary ,,ii1 #bah -- worn by scholars at ,eton1 #afi ,greek betrothal rings1 #aae ,gremial1 #bjb ,grenadier1 caps of ,scots ,greys1 #bdd ,greys1 ,scots1 #bde ,grenadier ,guards1 #bdh ,groom1 #adj -- origin of belt1 #aci -- -- -- dress1 #aci ,guards1 drummers of1 fleur-de-lys on braid of1 #bdf -- formation of1 by ,charles ,,ii1 #bdf -- ,grenadier1 #bdh -- -- buttons on coats of1 #bi -- ,irish1 #bdh -- ,life and ,horse1 survival of cord for priming powder horn1 #ajh -- ,scots1 #bdh -- white jackets of1 #bdc ,guignol1 #bee -- ,french punch1 #beg -- the name derived from ,giangurgolo1 #beg ,guild liveries1 #bcb ,guinea1 ,new1 women wear no clothes1 #i ,habit1 black of clergy1 #cjh ,habits1 monastic1 #aih ,hackle feathers of ,northumberland ,fusiliers1 #bdd ,hair1 clubbed1 #acd -- curly1 imitated1 #acj -- dedication of1 #abh -- dishevelling of1 as mourning1 #aha -- down1 girls wearing their1 #aff -- early man covered with1 #f -- great value attached to a profuse head of1 #abh -- long1 not necessarily effeminate1 #abg -- not correlated with cold climate1 #f -- of women dressed differently from that of men1 #abh -- powder1 #aca -- -- coloured1 #aca -- putting up of1 by girls1 #aff -- queued1 #acd -- ,roman modes of doing the1 #acb2 ,plate ,,vii1 facing page #abi -- use of others1 #acj ,halberds of ,yeomen of the ,guard1 #bbe ,handkerchief in general use in ,henry ,,viii's time1 #aie -- used for wrapping up dinners1 #aie -- -- -- -- -- presents1 #aie ,hanover1 cockade of ,house of1 #aec ,harem1 #ac ,harlequin1 #bfa1 #bfg -- coat of1 worn by the ,lord of ,montbron1 #bhc -- modern dress of1 #bhc1 #bhd -- origin of the character1 #bhb -- patched coat of1 #bhc -- shaven head of1 #bhc -- sooty face of1 #bhc -- wand of1 #bhc ,harlequinade1 #bfi1 #bhb ,harlequinne1 #bhe ,harrow1 coats at1 #afi -- swallow tails at1 #agj ,hat band1 #eb -- -- origin of1 #eb -- cocked1 development of1 #fj1 #fj -- ,cranmer's1 #bad1 #bad -- for hunting with lacing1 #ef1 #ef -- how made from a disc of material #eg1 #eg -- of a bishop of the ,stuart period1 #bad1 #bad -- sailor1 streamers of1 #ec1 #ec -- tall1 used in the ,army1 #bdh ,hats with the underside painted green1 #bga -- women in church without1 #bjf ,haweis1 ,mrs41 dressing to suit her surroundings1 #caj ,hawaiian ,islands1 hut of1 #di ,haybands forerunners of leg bandages1 #fg ,head1 distortion of1 #ccf ,head-dress of ,french lawyer1 #aeh -- -- -- ,henry ,,ii's reign surviving in that of nuns1 #bja1 #bjc -- -- shawl as a1 #fa -- -- ,siamese1 compared with a ,votive ,spire1 #ej1 #ea -- shaven1 of harlequin1 #bhc -- shaving1 #abg -- strap1 #bjc ,heads1 deforming of children's1 by ,chinook ,indians1 #cce ,hearse cloths1 #bcb ,heart-shaped amulets1 #bie1 #bif1 #bif ,hector the horse extinct in ,punch and ,judy show1 #bfg ,helmet of ,black ,prince1 #hg1 #hh -- fireman's1 #fj1 #fj -- plate1 #aeh ,helmets1 metal1 #fj ,henna used for staining fingers and toes by ,egyptians1 #bga ,henry ,,viii's reign1 handkerchief came into general use in1 #aie ,heppel1 ,mr4 ,george1 on ,punch and ,judy1 #bec -- -- -- -- figures worked by wires1 #bee ,heraldry1 ,handbook of1 by ,cussan1 #aei ,heralds1 tabards of1 #hc ,hereditary badges1 #ij ,hide1 raw1 shoe made of1 #fd1 #fd ,highland corps1 white jackets of1 #bdc -- dress1 #afb ,hindu ayahs1 nose rings of1 #aaa -- women1 painting of the feet scarlet by1 #bgc -- -- teeth blackened by1 #bgc ,hodgson1 ,miss1 uses a doll to show costume1 #agd ,hogarth's engravings of children1 #afb ,holland1 dress of clergy in1 #bjj ,holy ,land1 swaddling clothes persist in1 #afc1 #ccc ,hood1 #aih -- academical1 #baj -- -- wearing of1 by clergymen1 #aii1 #bab -- combined with cape1 #aef1 #aef1 #aeg -- enlargement of the peak1 #aef1 #aeg -- of a ,knight of the ,garter1 #bbi1 #bcj -- -- ,bachelor of ,arts1 #bab -- -- nuns1 #bjb1 #bjc -- -- the ,order of the ,thistle1 #bcj -- -- -- -- -- ,st4 ,patrick1 #bcj -- -- undergraduates1 liripipe of1 #baa -- peak of prolonged1 to form liripipe1 #aeg -- tiny1 on barrister's gown1 #bah1 #bai ,horn for priming powder1 survival of cords for suspending1 #ajh ,horns of honour1 #aag ,horse amulets1 #bic1 #bid1 #bid1 #bie1 #bif -- clothing1 #bib -- brass1 crescent shaped1 derived from boar's tusks1 #bid1 #bid -- brasses1 ,english1 the counterpart of those shown on ,trajan's column1 #bie -- -- ,dr4 ,plowright on the origin of some1 #bic -- -- ,miss ,lina ,eckenstein on1 #bic -- -- heraldic1 #bie -- identified as a corn spirit1 #big -- trappings1 #bib -- -- still used at funerals1 #bib -- white1 of ,hanover1 #bdc ,horses1 black1 used at funerals1 #cjc -- circus1 #cjc -- grey1 carry the kettledrums1 #cjc -- hats of1 #cjj -- killing of1 at harvest time1 #big -- sun-bonnets1 #cjj -- white carry the kettledrums1 #cjc ,hose1 ,florentine1 #gj1 #bhf -- tights1 a survival of ,florentine1 #bhf -- trunk1 #bfi -- -- of acrobat1 #bhf -- -- -- clown1 #bfi -- -- -- knights1 #bca ,household cavalry1 bandsmen's livery caps1 #adf ,housemaid1 apron of1 #adi -- cap of1 #adi ,hounds1 ,dalmatian1 as carriage dogs1 #cjc ,howard of ,effingham1 hat of ,lord1 #bdh ,hump of ,punch1 back1 #bfb1 #bfc -- -- -- front1 origin of1 #bec ,hungarian1 dress of the1 #cah -- peasant's cap1 #ei1 #ei ,huntsman1 livery cap of1 #adf ,hussars1 #ei -- cowry shells on trappings of horses of1 #big1 #bih -- dolman of1 #ha1 #bci -- ,eighth1 wear sword-belts over their shoulders1 #bdc -- ,eleventh1 wear ivory-hilted swords1 #bdd -- ,fifteenth1 wear ,austrian imperial lace1 #bdd -- lacing of1 #adf -- prickers on shoulder belt of1 #bci1 #bci -- sling jacket of1 #ha1 #bci -- ,third1 extra drummer of1 #bdd -- uniform of1 #bgb ,hut of ,hawaiian ,islands1 #di ,iceland1 glove with two thumbs1 #ie ,india1 lotus flowers on king's mantle1 symbolical of1 #bbb ,indian ,army1 puttees of1 #ff ,infant1 bib of1 #afg -- binder of1 #afc ,infants1 deformities caused by bandaging1 #afd -- powdered1 #afb -- patched1 #afb ,inner ,temple1 badge of the porters of1 #ia ,ireland1 pin-ring brooches in1 #abe ,irish ,guards1 #bdh ,ironside of ,cromwell compared with a modern cavalryman1 #bcg1 #bcg ,italian women age rapidly1 #cbi ,jacket1 ,cardigan1 #ah -- ,eton1 #afi -- smoking1 suggests relaxation1 #cdj ,jackets1 rainproof1 for cows1 #cjj -- white1 of ,guards1 #bdc -- -- -- ,highland corps1 #bdc ,japan1 use of paint by women in1 #bge ,japanese actors paint the face1 #bgc -- children1 painting the face of1 #bgc -- women1 teeth blackened by1 on marriage1 #bgc ,java1 earliest man in1 #g4 ,see ,frontispiece ,jerome1 ,st41 on special dress for worship1 #bje ,jesson1 ,mr4 ,w4 ,h41 a performer of ,punch and ,judy1 #bfb ,jesus ,college1 ,cambridge1 choristers' bands1 #de1 #de ,jewesses shave their heads1 #abg ,jews1 #bje -- rending their garments1 #db -- tattooing practised by1 #bgg ,joan the old name of ,judy1 #bff ,jockey1 livery cap of1 #adg -- parti-coloured dress of1 #adg1 #cac ,johanna1 #cja ,judge1 girdle of1 #bag -- gown of1 #bag -- sentence cap of1 #bag -- wig of1 #acb1 #baf1 #baf ,judith1 #bfg ,judy1 dress of1 #bfc -- apron of1 #bfc -- mob cap of1 #bfb1 #bfc -- once known as ,joan1 #bff -- origin of the name1 #bff ,kamarband worn by officers1 #bdi ,kayans of ,borneo1 clothes of bark worn by1 as mourning1 #aha ,kefiyeh fastened with a fillet of camel's hair1 #ec ,kersey1 #cea ,kettledrums1 silver1 #bdd ,kilburn ,sisters1 #bja1 #bjb ,kilt of sailors1 #beb -- short1 #gf1 #gf ,kimono brought from ,japan1 #cdd ,king's ,counsel1 dress of1 #bah -- -- gown of1 #bah -- -- white lawn cuffs used as mourning by1 #bbj -- footmen1 red coats of1 #bce ,kirkudbrightshire1 pin-ring brooches of blacksmiths in1 #abe ,knee-breeches worn when speeches are made at ,eton1 #agj ,knickerbocker suits1 jersey1 #afe ,knickerbockers1 #hj -- of blue-coat boys1 #afg -- a recognized feature of children's costume1 #afc ,knights of the ,garter1 #bbi -- -- -- -- chaperon on robes of1 #aeh -- -- ,st4 ,patrick1 #bbi -- -- the ,thistle1 #bbi ,knobs in the ,east take the place of buttons1 #bj ,kohl1 #bga ,label to difference arms1 #hf1 #hf1 #hh ,labourers' method of buttoning trousers1 #beb ,lace1 ,austrian imperial1 worn by ,fifteenth ,hussars1 #bdd ,lacedmonian girls1 tunics of1 slit down the sides1 #cdf ,lacerna1 #aih ,laces1 #ajj1 #aja ,lacing inside a hat1 #ee -- of ,hussars1 #adf -- tight1 banned by ,charles ,,iv and ,henry ,,iii1 #cbf -- -- in ,england1 #cbf -- -- made compulsory by ,catherine de ,medici1 #cbf ,ladies1 armorial bearings on dresses of1 #hd1 #he -- married with flowing tresses1 #aff -- wear pyjamas1 #bhh ,lady gardeners at ,kew wear trousers1 #ceh ,lake dwellings1 pins found in ,swiss1 #aje ,lamb1 ,persian1 used for making spots on miniver1 #bbb ,lambs that supply the wool for the pallium1 #aif -- waterproof coats of1 #cjj ,lancaster1 ,henry ,duke of1 crest and surcoat of1 #hf1 #hf ,lancers1 #ci ,lap1 boys and girls catching objects in their1 #cda ,lawn sleeves of a bishop1 #aii ,laws for the good of trade1 #cdh ,lawyer1 head-dress of ,french1 #aeh ,leech1 caricatures the busbies of the ,guards1 #bdg ,leg bandages1 #ff1 #ff1 #fg -- -- derived from haybands1 #fg -- -- of pfiferari1 #fh ,leggings1 survival of the wearing of skins1 #gj ,legion of ,honour1 buttons of1 #aeh ,leicestershire ,regiment1 tiger-skin aprons of1 #bdi ,leopards on ,arms of ,england1 #hf ,life ,guards1 black plumes of farriers of1 #bdb -- -- -- tunics of farriers of1 #bdb ,light ,infantry1 ,duke of ,cornwall's puggaree of1 #bdc ,lindley1 ,lord1 last surviving serjeant-at-law1 #bag ,linen1 strip of1 round head as mourning in ,egypt1 #ahb -- the showing of1 #dd ,lion spotted when young1 #id ,lions on ,arms of ,england1 #hf ,liripipe1 #aef1 #aeg1 #aeg1 #baj1 #bcj -- of undergraduates' hoods1 #baa -- peak of hood prolonged to form1 #aef1 #aef ,lip plugs1 #aaa ,liveries of the ,city ,companies1 #bca ,livery cap1 #adf -- -- of bandsmen of the ,household ,cavalry1 #adf -- -- -- drum-major of the ,foot ,guards1 #adf -- -- -- jockeys1 #adg -- -- -- huntsmen1 #adf -- ,companies1 chaperon1 vestige on gowns of1 #bca -- of page-boy1 #ade1 #ade -- -- porters1 #adh ,locket1 #abb ,loom combs1 #aag1 #aah ,lord ,mayor's coachman1 wig-bag of1 #acd1 #adc1 #adc -- -- postilion1 crest worn upon cap of1 #ib1 #ib ,lotus flowers symbolical of ,india1 on ,edward ,,vii's mantle1 #bbb ,louis ,,xvi1 hair of1 gave rise to wigs1 #aca ,louterell1 ,sir ,geoffrey1 figure showing armorial bearings1 #hd1 #he ,lovett1 ,mr4 ,edward1 on dolls in swaddling clothes1 #bfh -- -- -- -- origin of pin-ring brooches1 #abe -- -- -- -- patterns derived from tattooing1 #bgh ,lyman1 ,dr41 explanation of buttons being differently arranged on the clothes of the two sexes1 #bb ,macalister1 ,mr41 on fashions1 #ahi -- -- -- symbolism of the fringes on dalmatics1 #aia -- -- -- the pallium1 #aif -- -- -- -- surplice1 #ahe -- -- -- there being no distinctive garments for the ministers1 among early ,christians1 #aij ,macphersons1 tartan of the1 #cab ,magnin1 ,m41 on the origin of ,punch's hump1 #bfa ,mail1 chain1 vestige of1 on shoulder of ,imperial ,yeoman1 #bcc1 #bcc -- plate1 #bce ,malachite used for painting by prehistoric ,egyptians1 #bga ,man cook1 white clothes of1 #cbj -- ,isle of1 triskele in the coat-of-arms of1 #aai -- once hairy1 #g4 ,frontispiece -- skin of1 originally reddish1 #ac -- primitive1 #e ,manche1 #adf ,maniple1 #bba -- once a napkin1 #aid ,manning1 ,mrs41 hung in a black satin dress1 #cec ,manservant1 modern1 #adc ,mantle1 imperial1 #bba -- of ,edward ,,vii1 lotus flowers on1 #bbb -- -- ,queen ,victoria1 roses on1 #bbb ,mantles of ladies1 collars standing up1 #dh ,maoris1 tattooing of1 #bgg ,mare1 the last uncut ears of corn1 #big ,marken1 women of1 floral designs on the bodice1 #bgh ,market woman1 sun-bonnet of1 #fa ,marines1 ,royal1 mourning of1 #bdc ,marionettes1 #bee ,marriage by capture1 #age ,marriott1 ,mr41 on the colour of early vestments1 #aij ,martingale of horse1 amulets on1 #bid ,mask1 unwritten laws that rule the wearing of1 #bha ,masks of the #eth of ,november a reminder of primitive face-painting1 #bhj -- worn by savages1 #bhj ,mason1 ,mr4 ,otis ,t41 on pockets1 #aaj ,masons1 aprons of1 #bcb -- insignia of1 #bca ,master1 clothing of1 becomes that of servant1 #e1 #aeb ,maud1 #bj ,maundy ,thursday1 #bbf ,mayhew1 ,mr4 ,henry1 on ,punch and ,judy1 #bfe ,medical officers1 volunteer1 wear cocked hats1 #bdg ,men1 colour preferences of1 #cjg ,merveilleuses1 #cde1 #cde ,mess jacket of ,somersetshire ,light ,infantry1 #bdb ,meyer1 ,dr41 on the padding of sleeves above the shoulder to prevent weapons from slipping off1 #cch ,mice1 piebald1 #cjb ,milk-women1 apron of1 #aej -- -- costume of1 #aaj -- -- with yokes1 #aaj ,milton1 bands of1 #df ,mimes1 ,roman1 #ahc1 #bhb1 #bhc ,mimi1 #bhb ,miniver1 #bbb -- rows of black spots on1 indicate rank1 #bbc ,mitten1 open work1 #ii ,mittens and tattooing1 #ii ,mitre1 #bba -- strings of1 #ed1 #ed ,mizpah rings1 #aaf ,mob cap worn by ,judy1 #bfb1 #bfc ,modesty a habit1 #ab -- different ideas of1 in various regions1 #ab -- ideas of1 ,arab women1 #bjg ,molire introduces ,punch into ,le ,malade ,imaginaire1 #bfa ,monk1 ,general1 #bdf ,monkeys1 clothes of1 #cja ,monk1 dress of1 #bja -- scapular of1 #bja -- tunic of1 #bja ,montbron1 ,lord of1 harlequin's coat worn by1 #bhc ,montaigne on the sufferings caused by the corps piqu1 #cbe ,montagu1 ,lady ,mary ,wortley1 and painting1 #bgi ,montem at ,eton1 #aga ,moore1 ,sir ,john1 black worm as mourning for1 #bdb ,mortar-board1 #dg1 #afi1 #bab1 #bad ,moseley1 ,professor1 on face-painting in ,china1 #bgc1 #bgd1 #bge2 see ,plate ,x1 fig4 ,c facing p4 #bgj -- -- -- painting the body1 #bgb -- -- -- the use of paint by women in ,japan1 #bge ,mosque-like turban1 #ej1 #ej ,mourning bands of barristers1 #bai -- black as1 #aha -- black band on arm for1 #ahb -- -- worm for ,sir ,john ,moore as1 #bdb -- clothes of bark worn by ,kayans of ,borneo as1 #aha -- cuffs worn by the legal profession as part of1 #ahc -- dishevelling of hair as1 #aha -- for death of ,nelson1 #beb -- -- ,general ,wolfe1 black worm as1 #bdb -- of ,royal ,marines1 #bdc -- purple as1 #ahb -- sackcloth as1 #aha -- strip of linen round head in ,egypt as1 #ahb -- white as1 #ahb -- white lawn cuffs used by ,king's ,counsel as1 #bbj -- yellow as1 #ahb ,moustache1 #abi ,mules1 cowry shells on trappings of1 #big1 #bii ,mutes at children's funerals1 #ahb ,nail1 horseshoe1 as part of a pin-ring brooch1 #abe ,nakedness1 effect of1 destroyed by tattooing even in ,europeans1 #bgg ,napkin1 #aid1 #aie ,naval uniforms1 #bea ,navvies wear belts1 #cbi ,neapolitan1 the1 as an actor1 #bed ,neck chains1 #aac -- -- of ,richard ,,ii's time1 #aac ,nelson1 mourning for death of1 #beb ,neuville1 ,m4 ,lemercier de1 on ,punch's stick1 #bfj ,newcombe1 ,allan ,poe1 on hats and habitations1 #di ,nicks in coat lapels1 #da1 #da1 #db ,nightcap of man1 #bij1 #bij -- -- woman1 #bhi1 #bij ,nightcaps1 elaboration of1 restricted in the reign of ,mary1 #bij -- of ,tudors1 #bhi -- still worn1 #bhi ,night-dresses worn by ladies in the street in ,anne's reign1 #bij ,nightgown1 the bands on a lady's1 #bhh1 #bhi ,night rails1 #bij ,nightshirt cut like a day shirt1 #bhh ,noah's ,ark figures1 long garments of1 #bfh ,norman chin-band1 #bja1 #bjc ,normans closely shaved their beards1 #abi -- combination garments of1 #cbj -- wore trousers1 #gi ,northumberland ,fusiliers1 hackle feathers of1 #bdd -- -- wear roses1 #bde ,norwegian1 dress of the1 #cai ,nose rings of ,hindu ayahs1 #aaa ,novice1 veil of1 #bjb ,nuns1 #bja1 #bjc -- aprons of1 #bjb -- breast cloth of1 #bjb1 #bjc -- cap of1 #bjb1 #bjc1 #bjd -- collar of1 #bjb -- costume of1 #aih -- cross of1 #bjb -- frontal of1 #bjc1 #bjd -- hood of1 #bjb1 #bjc -- not allowed to wear gloves1 #bjd -- scapular of1 #bjb -- veil of1 #bjb1 #bjc -- wear wedding-rings1 #bjd ,nurse1 hospital1 uniform of1 #aej ,nurses1 domestic1 imitating hospital nurses' dress1 #aej ,o',connor1 ,dr4 ,bernard1 on bloomers1 #cfa -- -- -- -- woman's dress for active exercises1 #cfa ,officers1 commanding1 choice of uniform1 #bdb1 #bdc -- non-commissioned1 stripes on sleeves of1 #aad ,opal1 supposed powers of the1 #abd ,opals1 always fashionable1 #abc -- and bad luck1 #abd ,openwork mittens1 #ii -- of ,roman shoe1 #fb1 #fc -- stocking1 #fi1 #fi ,ophal1 #abd ,orange blossom1 #ahj ,orang-utan1 hair of1 #f ,oraria1 distribution of1 by ,aurelian1 #aib ,orarium1 #aia1 #aie ,order of the ,coif1 #baf ,origin of fashions difficult to trace1 #ced -- -- mayoral chains1 #aac -- -- the clock1 #fh ,ornament1 love of1 among simple races1 #h ,ornamentation of modern boots1 #fb1 #fc -- -- -- shoes1 #fb ,ornaments as currencies1 #aab -- of ,stone ,age1 #aab -- serve for identification1 #aj -- shells as1 #aab -- why they survive1 #aaa -- worn even if there are little clothes1 #i2 see ,plate ,,ii1 facing page #i ,orphrey1 the apparel of the chasuble1 #aif ,ostrich feathers1 #abb ,oxford ,university1 ,chancellor of1 hanging sleeve of1 #baj1 #baa -- -- undergraduate's gown1 #baj ,overcoat1 #adi ,pads in hair dressing1 #aca ,padding1 #cch ,page-boy1 buttons of1 #add1 #ade -- -- livery of1 #ade1 #ade ,pageants1 success of1 a sign of the craving for colour1 #cjf ,paint on face of clowns1 #bfi -- use of1 by women in ,japan1 #bge -- -- -- -- -- -- ,china1 #bge -- -- -- at a corroboree1 #bgb -- -- -- in war to terrify1 #bgc ,painted pasteboard figures burnt at funerals in ,china1 #bgd ,painting1 #ac -- by native races1 #bgb -- follows the bones of the body1 #bgb -- of clowns likened to that once in vogue in ,china and ,japan1 #bgf -- -- the body by cave men1 #bgj -- practised by civilized men1 #bhj -- the body among ,andaman ,islanders1 #bgf -- -- -- ,professor ,moseley on1 #bgb -- -- eyes1 practised by the prehistoric ,egyptian1 #fjjj ,b4,c41 #bga -- -- face to hide the ravages of time1 #bgh -- -- -- -- heighten its beauty1 #bgh -- -- -- deaths due to1 #bgi -- -- -- of ,japanese children1 #bgc -- -- -- -- -- actors1 #bgc -- -- feet scarlet by ,hindu women1 #bgc ,palettes1 slate1 in the form of two birds in prehistoric ,egypt1 #bie -- -- of the ,new ,race1 #bga ,pall1 #aig -- manufacture of1 #aif ,pallium1 #aie -- development of the1 #aif ,palmerston's1 ,lord1 broad-toed shoes1 #cce ,panache derived from the horn1 #aag ,pantaloon1 #bed1 #bfa1 #bhc1 #bhe -- ,elizabethan costume of1 #bfi1 #bhe1 #bhe ,pantomimes1 #bfi1 #bhb ,pantomimi1 #bhb ,papoose1 swathing of ,american ,indian1 #afd ,par1 ,ambrose1 on the suffering caused by the corps piqu1 #cbe ,paris1 waistbands1 trade in1 discarded1 #cdh ,parliamentary officials1 wigs of1 #acb ,parti-coloured dress of ,athletic clubs1 #cac -- -- -- jockeys1 #cac ,patches indicating political views1 #bgi -- of ,charles ,i's reign banned by the ,puritans1 #bgh -- reappear in ,charles ,,ii's reign1 #bgi ,pattern1 pine1 origin of1 #caa ,patterns1 breeches of chequered1 worn by ,gauls and early inhabitants of ,england1 #caa ,peasant dress1 slight survivals in ,england1 #aej2 ,plate ,,vii1 facing page #aej ,pelisse obtained from ,persia1 #cdd ,pendants1 #abb ,pensioners1 costumes of1 #agj ,people1 uncivilized1 without pockets1 #i ,persian women wear trousers1 #ha ,pet animals1 collars worn by1 #bih ,perthshire1 the bare feet of children in1 #ccc ,petrie1 ,professor1 on ,romano-,egyptian portrait models1 #acb -- -- -- buttons in ,egypt1 #abj -- -- -- the origin of a supposed shield-shaped ornament1 #bif ,petticoat at first not shaped1 #gc -- hooped1 #ccg ,petticoats1 lengthening of1 #aff -- of sailors1 #beb -- -- small boys1 #afe ,pfiferari1 cross gartering of1 #fh -- leg bandages of1 #fh ,phallic worship1 #abb ,pig-tail1 grease of1 #beb ,pileus quadratus1 #bab ,pillion1 #adj ,pin1 safety1 #aja1 #aah -- -- in hat1 #ajd1 #ajd -- -- -- waistband1 #ajc1 #ajd -- -- like an ,etruscan brooch1 #ajb1 #ajc -- scarf1 #aah ,pinafore1 #aej ,pinafores now children's dress1 #afg ,pin-money1 #aje ,pinner1 #aej ,pins1 bronze1 #aje -- ,egyptian1 #aje -- found in ,swiss ,lake dwellings1 #aje -- gold1 #aig -- made of thorns1 #abe -- of bone1 #aje -- ornamental1 #ajf -- scarf1 #ajf ,pithecanthropus erectus1 #g ,plaid1 #bj1 #ahg -- belted1 #gb -- shepherd's1 #cab ,plaids1 #caa ,plastron of ,hussars1 #adh ,plowright1 ,dr41 on the ,moorish origin of some horse brasses1 #bic ,plugs for lips1 #aaa ,plumes1 black1 of farriers of ,life ,guards1 #bdb -- why on left side1 #eh ,plush1 #adi -- breeches1 #ajd1 #ada ,pocket flaps1 vestiges of1 #cb1 #cc ,pockets1 #aji -- in the sleeves of a ,corean1 #aaj -- side1 #cj -- uncivilized people without1 #i ,points1 #ih -- on gloves1 #if1 #ih ,policeman's coat1 buttons on the back of1 #bf1 #bf -- uniform not worn by children1 #afc ,polly1 ,miss1 in the ,punch and ,judy show1 now extinct1 #bfe ,polypus 7 the octopus7 changing colour1 #bjf ,porters1 livery of1 #adh -- railway1 waistcoats of1 #adh ,portugal1 ,queen of1 demonstrates the evils of tight-lacing by means of radiographs1 #cbe ,postilions1 buttons on jackets of1 #ch -- coats of ,his ,majesty's1 #ade -- of ,lord ,mayor1 crest worn upon cap of1 #ib1 #ib ,postulant1 veil of1 #bjb ,poupe derived from pupa1 #afc ,pouter coat1 #ada1 #ada ,powder1 #adi -- for hair1 #aca ,prayer-book1 first1 of ,edward ,v1 ornaments1 rubric of1 upheld by ,act of ,uniformity1 #aii -- -- second1 of ,edward ,,vi1 #aii -- -- vestments prescribed by the1 first1 of ,edward ,,vi1 #aih ,prickers on the shoulder-belt of a ,hussar1 #bci1 #bci ,priest1 #aid ,profession indicated by costumes1 #caf ,puggaree of ,duke of ,cornwall's ,light ,infantry1 #bdc ,pulicinella1 #bed -- means a hen chicken1 #bfd -- ,oscan1 of #agca1 #bef ,punch1 #bfc -- a ,roman mime1 #ahc -- and ,judy1 dress of1 #acg -- -- -- show1 beadle of1 #adg1 #bfb1 #bfd -- -- -- -- doctor of1 #bfc -- -- -- -- ,hector1 the horse1 extinct in1 #bfg -- -- -- -- ,miss ,polly1 now extinct in1 #bfe -- back hump of1 #bfb1 #bfc -- bronze statuette with face and features of1 #beh1 #beh -- figures worked by wires1 #bee -- front hump of1 #bec1 #bfa -- gay clothes of1 in ,france and ,england1 #bfa -- in religious plays1 #bff -- introduced into ,le ,malade ,imaginaire1 by ,molire1 #bfa -- origin of clothes of1 #beg -- -- --1 hump of1 #bec1 #bfa -- ruff of1 #bfb1 #bfc -- stick of1 #bfj -- the behaviour of1 changes1 #bfd -- voice of1 #bfd ,pupa1 ,greek name for a baby in swaddling clothes1 #afc ,puppet derived from pupa1 #afc -- show of fourteenth century1 #bei1 #bei -- shows in ,china1 #bei ,puritans and ,quakers1 fashions set by1 #cdh ,purple as mourning1 #ahb ,puttees1 #ff1 #ff1 #cbh -- of ,indian ,army1 #ff ,pyjamas1 #abh -- worn by ladies1 #bhh ,pym1 ,john1 bands of1 #df1 #df ,quakers refused to wear buttons1 #aai ,queued hair1 #acd ,quiver carried on a baldric1 #ajf ,ra1 #abb ,rats1 white1 #cjb ,rank once indicated by dress1 #cai -- indicated by dress in certain professions1 #cbj -- not usually shown by dress1 #cai ,ramillies1 battle of1 #bdd ,red cap of liberty1 #cjf -- not universal in the ,british ,army1 #cjh -- rag of chulos in the bull fight1 #cjf -- ribbon of engaged girl1 #cjf -- rose of ,lancaster1 #cjf -- shirt of the followers of ,garibaldi1 #cjf -- tie of platelayer1 #cjf ,regimental badges1 #bde ,revers buttoned back1 #ch1 #ci ,reynolds1 ,mr4 ,p4 ,w41 on the survival of a button1 #bdh -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- forage cords1 #bda ,rhead1 ,mr41 on the festal dress of ,otaheite1 #cch ,richard ,,ii's time1 chaperon of1 #aeg ,rifle ,brigade1 busby of1 #bdb -- -- cross belt of1 #bdb ,ring1 #aie -- for nose of ,hindu ayahs1 #aaa -- in ,ireland1 bearing clasped hands1 #aaf -- of ,bishop ,agilbert of ,paris1 #aad ,rings1 betrothal of ,greeks1 #aae -- -- -- ,romans1 #aae -- engagement1 #aad -- ,egyptian1 of blue pottery of faence1 #aaf -- ,episcopal1 #aad -- finger1 in ,babylon1 #aad -- -- -- ,egypt1 #aad -- for ears1 #aab -- gimmal1 #aae -- in which the stones stand for letters1 #aaf -- sacred eye on1 #aag -- signet1 #hc1 #he -- -- in ,egypt1 #aad -- -- suspended from the neck1 #aaf -- used as an insignia of rank by ,romans1 #aae -- wedding1 #aad -- -- worn by nuns1 #bjd -- why worn on third finger1 #aae ,robe1 parliamentary1 of the ,king1 #bbb -- coronation1 eagles on1 #bbb ,robes of companies1 #ach -- -- a chancellor of a university1 #baj -- -- borough councillors1 #ach -- -- the ,barons of the ,exchequer1 #bah -- worn on ,state occasions1 #acg ,robinson1 ,commander1 on naval uniforms1 #beb ,robley1 ,general1 collection of ,maori heads1 #bgg ,rochet1 #aii1 #bba ,roman betrothal rings1 #aae -- d',alexandre1 ,,ms4 of1 #bei ,romans cut their beards1 #abi -- did not wear trousers1 #gg -- shoes of open work of1 #fb1 #fc -- tunic of1 #aia -- use rings as insignia of rank1 #aae ,roses on ,queen ,victoria's mantle1 #bbb -- worn by ,northumberland ,fusiliers1 #bde -- -- -- soldiers on ,st4 ,george's day1 #bde ,roy and ,adami1 ,professors1 on the beneficial use of waist belts and stays1 #ccb ,royalty1 fashions arising from deformities of1 #cdd ,rubies always fashionable1 #abc ,ruff1 ,elizabethan1 of ,toby1 #bec -- of ,toby1 #bfc -- worn by ,punch1 #bfb1 #bfc ,ruffles1 #bbg ,ruffs of ,elizabeth's reign1 #dh1 #cea ,russia1 boots of bridegrooms removed by brides in1 #agg ,sackcloth as mourning1 #aha ,safety-pin1 #aja1 #ajb1 #ajc1 #ajd1 #aah ,sailor suit1 #afb ,sailors1 ,european1 tattooing practised by1 #bgg -- kilt of1 #beb -- petticoat breeches of1 #beb -- petticoat of1 #beb -- trousers1 method of buttoning1 #beb ,st4 ,clement on women covering their heads in church1 #bje1 #bjg -- ,george1 cross of1 #aeh -- ,gregory the ,great1 costume of1 #ahh1 #ahh -- ,john of ,jerusalem1 dress of ,knights of1 #cba -- ,lucia1 #bdd -- ,nicholas1 dress of1 #acg -- -- figure of1 shows old dress1 #bfg -- ,patrick1 hood of the ,order of1 #bcj ,sapphires always fashionable1 #abc ,saragossa1 battle of1 #bdc ,sashes meant to be used as slings1 #bda -- of officers1 #bdi -- worn over the left shoulder by sergeants of the ,twenty-,ninth ,foot1 #bdi ,satchel carried on a baldric1 #ajf ,savage1 the female--a ,merveilleuse dress1 #cdf ,savages1 colour preferences of1 #cjg ,saxons parted or trimmed their beards1 #abi -- wore trousers1 #gi1 #gi ,scapular of nuns1 #bjb ,scaramouch1 #bed1 #bfa -- a pantomimist1 #bhf ,scarf1 #aia1 #aii -- on ladies' hats1 #adi -- pin1 #ajf1 #aah ,scarves1 #aib ,sceptre1 #bba1 #cjd ,school1 ,blue-coat1 #afg -- ,bristol ,red-,maids1 #afh -- ,wells ,grey-,maids1 #afh ,schools1 ,green-coat1 #afh -- ,grey-coat1 #afh ,scotland1 dress of heads of churches in1 #bjj ,scottish ,rifles1 chaco of1 #bda ,scots ,greys1 #bde -- -- take their name from their horses1 #cjc -- -- ,grenadier1 caps of1 #bdd -- ,guards1 #bdh ,seal of ,solomon1 #bic ,serapis1 crown of1 #aag ,serjeant-at-law1 ,lord ,lindley1 last1 #bag -- coif of1 #baf -- robes of1 #bah -- wig of1 #bae ,sergeants of ,twenty-,ninth ,foot wear sashes over their left shoulders1 #bdi ,servant1 clothing of master becomes that of1 #e1 #aci ,servants' dress1 #aci ,sex idea1 #afe ,shabbies1 #bfh ,shamrock1 #bbb ,shapka1 #bci ,shaving carried out with flint knives or pieces of shell1 #abg -- of heads by ,egyptians1 #abh -- -- -- -- ,east ,end ,jewesses1 #abg -- -- the whole head1 #abg ,shawl1 #af -- as a head-dress1 #fa -- the ancestral1 #ae -- used as kilt by ,danish chieftain1 #gb1 #gc ,shells as ornaments1 #aab -- cowry1 on trappings of camels1 #big1 #bii -- -- -- -- -- donkeys1 #big -- -- -- -- -- ,hussars1 #big1 #bih -- -- -- -- -- mules1 #big1 #bii ,shepherd1 plaid of1 #cab ,shield1 #hc -- heart-shaped1 derived from a double bird1 #bif -- of ,black ,prince1 #hg1 #hi -- -- ,david1 #bic ,shirt front1 origin of the1 #dd -- survival of the1 as an outer garment1 #bhh ,shoe made from a flat piece of hide1 #fe -- money in ,bulgaria1 #agg -- of raw hide1 #fd1 #fd ,shoes1 broad toed1 of ,henry ,,viii's reign1 #cce -- gift of1 by bridegroom to bride1 #agg -- high heels of1 #cce -- old1 thrown at weddings1 #agf -- ornamentation of modern1 #fb -- part of wages1 #agg -- pieces of old1 worn by ,eskimos to ensure fruitfulness1 #agh -- removed from dead bodies to lay ghosts1 #agh -- with preposterously long toes1 #cej -- thrown over the heads of the ,o',neils by the ,o',cahans1 #agg -- -- to ensure fruitfulness1 #agg ,shoulder knot1 use of1 #bch ,siamese women wear trousers1 #ha2 see ,plate ,v1 facing p4 #ha ,sicily1 triskele in the coat-of-arms of1 #aai ,sign of the ,crooked ,billet1 #adf ,signs derived from ,royal badges1 #ia ,silk1 forbidden1 #cea -- stockings1 #adj1 #ada ,simkin1 ,mr4 ,r41 explanation of the flash1 #acc ,sisters1 lay1 #bjd -- ,kilburn1 #bja1 #bjb -- of ,mercy1 #bja ,skeleton dress1 ,dutch1 #ade1 #ade ,sketch1 ,the1 on cockades1 #aeh ,skirt1 long1 dangerous nowadays1 #ceh -- -- disseminates germs1 #ceh ,skirts1 short1 a recognized feature of children's costume1 #afc -- simple1 of a ,danish chieftainess1 #gc -- of lady gardeners damaged the plants1 #ceh ,skull on head-dress of ,hussars1 #adf ,skulls1 bone inserted into prehistoric1 #ccf ,sleeves1 costume dated by1 #baj -- detachable1 of nuns1 #bjb -- hanging1 #bji1 #bji -- hanging1 of a chancellor of ,oxford ,university1 #baa -- slashed1 prohibited1 #cej -- velvet1 of a ,proctor1 #cba ,sling jacket of the ,hussars1 #ha1 #bci ,smock-frock1 #ah1 #ai ,socks1 #ff ,soldiers1 armlets conferred on1 #aad -- boys dressed as1 #afc -- dress previous to the ,restoration1 #bcf ,solicitor of ,guards1 uniform of1 #bdg -- -- -- cocked hat of1 #bdg ,solomon1 seal of1 #bic ,somersetshire ,light ,infantry1 cavalry mess jacket of1 #bdb ,soul remaining in shoes1 #agh ,spaniard1 dress of the1 #cah ,spatterdashes1 #gj ,spencer1 ,herbert1 on fashions1 #cdc ,spire1 ,siamese head-dress compared with a votive1 #ej1 #ea ,sporran1 #gf1 #gg ,spur leathers1 #bce ,staff1 cross1 #aie -- pastoral1 #aie ,star1 #aeh ,statuette1 bronze1 of ,punch1 #beh1 #beh ,statute cap of ,elizabeth1 #afh ,stays1 original intention of1 #cbc -- ,professors ,roy and ,adami on the beneficial use of1 #ccb -- theory that they are derived from swaddling clothes1 #ccb ,steen1 ,jan1 bands of1 #df1 #df ,stick of camel driver survival of a sceptre1 #cjd ,sticks1 walking1 #abd ,stitching carried down the back of gloves1 #ig1 #ih ,stoat1 #bbb ,stockings1 #ff1 #aie -- embroidered1 #fi1 #fi -- leather1 worn by ,william ,penn1 #gj -- of cloth1 #fh -- open work1 #fi1 #fi -- silk1 #adj1 #ada -- yellow1 of blue-coat boys1 #afg ,stocks of leather1 #bjj ,stole1 #aic1 #bba ,stoles of deacons1 #aib ,stone ,age1 ornaments of1 #aab ,stones1 precious1 fashions in1 #abc -- -- supposed attributes of1 #abc ,straps1 shoulder1 #gd1 #ge ,straw wisps on horses1 #big ,streamers of sailor hat1 #ec1 #ec -- -- ,scotch cap1 #ec1 #ed -- on barristers' gowns1 #bai -- -- hats1 #eb1 #eb -- -- head-dress of twelfth century1 #ec1 #ec ,strings1 cap1 #adi -- on mitres1 #ed1 #ed ,stripe on trousers1 vestige of a row of buttons1 #ha1 #hb ,stripes on sleeves of non-commissioned officers1 #aad ,stud1 #aah1 #aai ,suit1 sailor1 #afb ,sumptuary laws1 #cdi1 #cej1 #cea -- -- a hindrance to trade1 #cea -- -- usually a failure1 #cdi ,sun-bonnet of barge women1 #fa2 see ,plate ,,viii1 facing p4 #aej ,sun-bonnets of horses1 #cjj -- -- -- market-garden women1 #fa ,surcoat1 #hc -- of ,black ,prince1 #hg1 #hi -- -- ,henry ,duke of ,lancaster1 #hf1 #hf ,surgeons of the ,life ,guards wear cocked hats1 #bdg ,superstitions keep up fashions1 #cdi ,surplice1 #ahe1 #aie1 #aii -- academical hood worn by clergy on a1 #bab -- ,mr4 ,macalister on the1 #ahe -- slit in front in order to go over big wigs1 #ahe ,survivals of trade costumes 7butchers71 #cjh -- supposed in naval dress1 #beb ,suspenders1 #ga ,surtout1 #adh ,swaddling clothes still used in the ,holy ,land1 #ccc -- -- theory that stays are derived from1 #ccb -- -- swallow-tail coat1 evolution of1 #cc1 #cd -- tails at ,harrow1 #agj ,swastika1 #aai1 #abb2 see ,plate ,,vii1 fig4 ,f1 facing p4 #abi1 #caa -- the forerunner of the cross1 #caa ,sword belt1 not worn outside the coat1 #bf -- handle1 opening for1 in coat1 #cj -- in ,court dress1 #bbg -- ivory hilted1 worn by ,eleventh ,hussars1 #bdd ,tab on soldier's coat1 #bi1 #cj -- -- side of coat1 #ca1 #cb ,tabards of heralds1 #hc ,tags1 metal1 #ajj1 #aja -- ornamental1 #aja1 #aja -- useless on top boots1 #ff1 #ff ,tailor and ,cutter1 ,editor of1 on clothes and nationality1 #cag ,talismans1 wearing of1 by ancient ,egyptians1 #abb ,talith1 #bje ,tannin preserves woven material1 #ah ,tapir1 spotted when young1 #id2 see ,frontispiece ,tartan1 ,cameron1 #bdb -- wearing of1 forbidden1 #cea ,tartans1 ,royal ,stuart1 #cab -- of ,scotch clans1 #cab -- dyes for1 obtained from native plants1 #cac -- clans with several1 #cab ,tattooing1 #ac -- and mittens1 #ii -- destroys the effect of nakedness even in ,europeans1 #bgg -- effect of1 produced by open-work stockings and blouses1 #gj -- of the ,maoris1 #bgg -- practised by early ,egyptians1 #bgg -- -- -- ,european sailors1 #bgg -- -- -- modern sailors1 #bgg -- -- -- ,jews1 #bgg -- -- -- practised by old inhabitants of this country1 #bgg -- scar1 as a means of recognition1 #bgf ,tax on elegant dress1 #cej ,teeth blackened by ,hindu women1 #bgc -- -- -- ,japanese women on marriage1 #bgc ,thistle1 hood of the ,order of the1 #bcj ,thistles1 #bbb ,tie1 white at1 ,eton1 #afi ,tierra del ,fuegians1 #aa ,tights1 #gj -- of acrobats1 #bhf -- a survival of ,florentine hose1 #bhf -- -- knightly orders1 #bca ,tippet1 #aib1 #bab ,tippets of ,doctors of ,divinity1 scarlet1 #bab -- for ministers who are not graduates1 #aii ,tobit1 dog in the ,book of1 suggested by ,toby1 #bfg ,toby1 ,elizabethan ruff of1 #bec -- represented in ,china by a dragon1 #bfg -- -- -- ,france by a cat1 #bfg -- ruff of1 #bfc -- suggests the dog in the book of ,tobit1 #bfg ,toga1 #ahg -- replacement of1 #aib -- when worn1 #ahg ,toledo1 ,fourth ,council of1 #aib ,tonsure1 #bag -- of priests1 #abg ,topaz as a detector of poison1 #abd ,toothpick collar of dress coat1 #dc1 #dc ,top-coat1 #adi ,trades1 characteristic dresses of1 #cbj ,trajan1 trousers shown on the column of1 #gh ,tramway drivers1 buttons on back of the coats of1 #cj1 #ca ,treble1 cockade1 large1 #aeb ,trencher1 #dg1 #bac1 #bad ,triangles1 mystic interlaced1 #bic ,trimmings of judge's gown1 altered in colour by ,lord ,coleridge1 #bah ,triskele in the coat-of-arms of the ,isle of ,man1 #aai -- -- -- -- -- -- -- ,sicily1 #aai ,trousers1 bell-bottom1 #cdg -- evolution of1 #gg -- method of buttoning bishops'1 #beb -- not worn by ,romans1 #gg -- of labourers1 method of buttoning1 #beb -- -- sailors1 method of buttoning1 #beb -- shown on ,trajan's column1 #gh -- worn by barbarians1 #gh1 #gh -- -- -- lady gardeners at ,kew1 #ceh -- -- -- ,normans1 #gi -- -- -- ,saxons1 #gi1 #gi -- -- -- women in ,siam1 #ha2 see ,plate ,v1 facing p4 #ha -- -- -- -- -- ,persia1 #ha -- -- in riding dress by ladies1 #ceh ,trumpeters1 ,state1 uniform of1 #bdb ,trumpington1 ,sir ,richard de1 brass of1 showing chain mail1 #bcd1 #bcd ,trunk hose of clown1 #bfi -- -- of ,knightly ,orders1 #bca ,tudor dresses1 shown by playing cards1 #bca -- flat cap1 #bad ,tunic1 #af1 #ag1 #ag1 #ahg -- developed from the shawl1 #ag1 #ah ,tunic1 ,egyptian1 #af -- ,greek1 #af1 #ag -- of monks1 #bja -- sleeved1 #ag -- survival of the ,anglo-,saxon1 #bhh ,tunica alba1 #ahi ,tunicle1 #aie1 #bba ,tunics1 black1 of farriers of ,life ,guards1 #bdb -- of ,anglo-,saxons compared with a shirt1 #bhh -- -- ,lacedmonian girls slit down the side1 #cdf ,turban like the dome of a mosque1 #ej1 #ej ,turquoises always fashionable1 #abc ,twenty-,ninth ,foot1 sergeants of1 wear sashes over their left shoulders1 #bdi ,twain1 ,mark1 #cda ,tylor1 ,dr41 on finger-rings1 #aad -- -- -- painting in war time by civilized races1 #bgc -- -- -- the tendency to give up savage ornaments1 #aaa ,underclothes1 lack of1 #cfj ,ulster1 #adi ,uniforms1 naval1 #bea -- of ,hussars1 #bgb -- -- ,navy1 date from #agfg1 #bea -- -- sergeant worn by extra drummer1 #bdd -- military1 regular adoption of1 #bce -- -- solicitor of ,guards1 #bdg -- service1 protectively coloured1 #bcf -- gay1 only used in times of peace1 #bcf ,union ,jack on ,king's colours of ,coldstream ,guards1 #bdf ,ushabti1 models of servants put into ,egyptian graves1 #bfh ,veil of a bride1 #age -- -- novice1 #bjb -- -- nun1 #bjb1 #bjc -- -- postulants1 #bjb ,vergers1 costume of1 #bah ,vermiform appendix1 #c ,vestments1 adoption of1 by ,english ,high ,church clergy1 #aib -- baptismal1 #afd -- ecclesiastical1 #ahd -- of ,high ,church clergy1 coloured1 adopted by1 #cje -- ornaments of1 gradually acquired1 #ahg -- prescribed by the first ,prayer ,book of ,edward ,,vi1 #aih -- prohibited by second ,prayer ,book of ,edward ,,vi1 #aii -- of ,presbyterian clergy1 professional1 #ahe -- worn at the celebration of the ,eucharist1 #aid ,vestige of a row of buttons1 stripe on trousers1 #ha1 #hb -- -- the coif from wig of a sergeant-at-law1 #baf1 #bag ,vestiges1 buttons on postilions1 #ch -- of the fillet1 #eb1 #eb -- in the animal kingdom1 #c ,vickery1 ,dr4 ,alice1 on children's dress1 #afe ,villiers-en-,couche1 battle of1 #bdd ,voice of ,punch1 #bfd ,vowesses1 #ahc ,waist1 wasp-like1 #cbc ,wales'1 ,prince of1 feathers a hereditary badge1 #ij ,waistbands1 trade in discarded1 in ,paris1 #cdh ,waistbelts1 ,professors ,roy and ,adami1 on the beneficial use of1 #ccb ,waistcoat1 #adh ,waiter1 #add ,waiters1 evening dress of1 #add1 #aea ,wand of harlequin1 #bhc ,warp1 #af -- of hand loom1 #aag ,waterloo1 battle of1 #bde ,watermen1 badges of1 #ia ,wearing of talismans by ancient ,egyptians1 #abb ,weddings1 superstitions at1 #agf ,weights1 leaden1 used by women to flatten their chests1 #cch ,weeds1 old meaning of the word1 #ahb -- widows1 #ahb ,weft of hand loom1 #aag ,wells1 ,blue schools at1 #afh ,welsh ,fusiliers1 flash of1 #bda ,westminster1 coats at1 #afi ,whips1 fashions in1 #cjc ,whiskers1 effect of bushy1 #acj ,white as mourning1 #ahb -- clothes of butterman1 #cbj -- -- -- man cook1 #cbj ,widows1 costume of1 #aih ,wig of coachman1 #adb1 #adb -- of judge1 #bae1 #baf -- -- -- depression in1 #bae -- -- doctor in the ,punch and ,judy show1 #bfd ,wig-bag of ,court dress1 #bbg1 #bbi -- remnant of1 #acc -- on liveries of servants1 #acd1 #adc -- of ,lord ,mayor's coachman1 #acd1 #adc1 #adc ,wigs1 barristers'1 #acb -- coachmen's1 #acb -- imitating curly hair1 #acj -- footmen's1 #acb -- judges1 #acb -- legal1 #bae -- of ,east ,end ,jewesses1 #abg -- -- ,egyptians1 #abh -- -- ,parliamentary officials1 #acb -- -- ,serjeants-at-law1 #bae -- value of1 #bbh ,wilhelmstahl1 battle of1 #bdd ,william ,rufus1 hanging sleeves of the time of1 #bji ,wimple1 #age1 #bjc -- of ,norman ladies1 #bjb -- of the time of the ,plantagenets1 #bjb ,winchester scholars1 bands of1 #afi ,wolfe1 ,general1 black worm worn as mourning for1 #bdb ,women1 ,arab1 #abb -- -- ideas of modesty1 #bjg -- barge1 apron of1 #aej2 see ,plate ,,viii1 facing p4 #aej -- colour preferences of1 #cjg -- covering their faces1 #ac1 #bjf -- dress of1 varies little1 #af -- in church without hats1 #ac1 #bjf -- -- many places wear trousers1 #ceg -- married1 not to wear caps1 #cej -- milk1 #aej -- -- yokes of1 #aaj -- ,padaung1 metal collars of1 #aad2 see ,plate ,,vi1 facing p4 #aad -- rational dress for1 #cfa -- riding astride1 #cei -- the first to wear clothes1 #ab -- ,welsh and ,italian1 age rapidly1 #cbi ,wood1 ,mr4 ,walter1 on white jackets for soldiers1 #bdc ,woodville1 ,mr4 ,caton1 on aiguillettes1 #bdj ,worm1 black1 of ,east ,yorkshire regiment1 #bdb -- -- mourning for ,sir ,john ,moore1 #bdb -- -- of ,north ,lancashire regiment1 #bdb -- -- of ,somersetshire ,light ,infantry1 #bdb -- -- worn as mourning for ,general ,wolfe1 #bdb -- slow1 third eye in1 #c ,wristbands1 #bd ,yellow as mourning1 #ahb -- a favourite colour of gipsies1 #cjf -- mourning colour in ,oriental countries1 #cjg -- worn by medival ,jews1 #cjg ,yeomen of the ,guard1 badges of1 #bbd1 #bbd1 #bbe -- -- -- -- dress of1 #bbc -- -- -- -- duties of1 #bbe -- -- -- -- officers1 dress of1 #bbe -- -- -- -- -- of1 wear the uniform used in the ,peninsular ,war1 #bbe -- -- -- -- original uniform of1 #bbe ,yoke1 #aji1 #aaj -- of milk woman1 #aaj ,yoxall1 ,mr41 on wearing of yellow by ,jews1 #cjf ,,printed ,,by ,,william ,,brendon ,,and ,,son1 ,,ltd4 ,,plymouth ,transcriber's note ,words in italics were surrounded by underscores and in bold by signs4 ,anchors for footnote #cc and #cd were added1 after careful consideration where they should have been4 ,some illustrations were slightly moved for reader convenience1 but the bold numbers in the index1 leading to the original pages1 were not changed4 ,in the ,index1 errors in the alphabetical order were not corrected4 ,also in the ,index1 the item ,moseley seemed to contain a footnote1 which has been removed because it did not refer to anything4 ,the original said3 see ,plate ,x1 fig4 ,c#a4 ,a few punctuation errors have been corrected silently4 ,also the following corrections were made1 on page #acd ,fusillers changed to ,fusiliers 7,fig4 #aji7 #ade ,sketon changed to ,skeleton 7,dutch ,skeleton ,dress7 #bac carboard changed to cardboard 7made of cardboard covered with cloth7 #bba almostly changed to almost 7agree almost entirely with those7 #bfc mop changed to mob 7,fig #aed471 also in the ,list of ,illustrations #bgh ,markan changed to ,marken 7the women of ,marken1 in ,holland1 may have7 #bhi o changed to #j 7#hs4 #j;d47 #cji deferentiate changed to differentiate 7serve to differentiate the sisters7 #cad promegranate changed to pomegranate 7the flowers of the pomegranate7 #cbi had changed to hand 7,on the other hand1 the fact that7 #cfi ,abesses changed to ,abbesses 7,abbesses1 costume of7 #chh oy changed to by 7worn by ,punch74 ,otherwise the original has been preserved1 including inconsistent spelling and hyphenation4