,transcriber's ,notes3 ,italic text is marked thus2 bold text is shown thus4 ,apparent typographical errors have been corrected and hyphenation standardised4 ,unusual punctuation and original spelling have been retained4 ,fig4 numbers do not follow in strict numerical order4 ,illustration3 ,front ,cover4 ,,the ,,boy ,,craftsman ,,handicraft ,,books ,,by ,a4 ,,neely ,,hall #hvo4 ,cloth4 ,illustrated with hundreds of photographs and working drawings by the author and ,norman ,p4 ,hall ,,the ,,boy ,,craftsman ,,handicraft ,,for ,,handy ,,boys 7,revised ,edition7 ,,the ,,handy ,,boy 7,revised ,edition7 ,,home-,,made ,,toys ,,for ,,girls ,,and ,,boys ,,handicraft ,,for ,,handy ,,girls ,,carpentry ,,and ,,mechanics ,,for ,,boys ,,home-,,made ,,games ,,and ,,game ,,equipment 7,revised ,edition7 ,,outdoor ,,boy ,,craftsmen ,,big ,,book ,,of ,,boys' ,,hobbies ,,lothrop1 ,,lee ,,shepard ,,company ,,boston ,,new ,,york ,illustration3 ,a ,,boy',s ,,workshop4 ,,the ,,boy ,,craftsman ,practical and ,profitable ,ideas for a ,boy's ,leisure ,hours ,,by ,a4 ,neely ,hall ,with more than four hundred illustrations by the author and ,norman ,p4 ,hall ,illustration3 ,page ,decoration4 ,,boston ,,lothrop1 ,,lee ,,shepard ,,co4 ,,copyright1 #aije1 ,,by ,,lothrop1 ,,lee ,,shepard ,,company4 ,published1 ,august1 #aije4 ,all rights reserved4 ,,the ,,boy ,,craftsman4 ,norwood ,press ,j4 ,s4 ,cushing ,co4--,berwick ,smith ,co4 ,norwood1 ,mass41 ,u4,s4,a4 ,work hard--,play hard4 --,,theodore ,,roosevelt4 ,,note ,,to ,,the ,,reader ,the boy of to-day is ever on the lookout for new ideas which can be adopted for his work and recreation1 schemes which are practical and which are thoroughly up-to-date4 ,they must be helpful in suggesting ways of earning money1 as well as entertaining1 for what boy of the present day does not feel the need of such suggestions to aid him in raising the funds necessary to carry on his work8 ,in none of the books published on boy's handicraft has the question entered into consideration as to how he is to obtain the means with which to buy such materials and apparatus as the work requires4 ,a boy should not expect to draw upon his father's purse for everything his fancy desires4 ,it is important that he learn to earn his spending money1 for in doing so he becomes independent and more careful as to how he invests it4 ,having had the experience of working1 the average boy learns to so appreciate the value of hard-earned money that it is pretty certain he will spend it only for something with which he can earn more or which will prove useful to him in his work and play4 ,the ,boy ,craftsman has been undertaken with a view of helping boys with their problems of earning money1 as well as furnishing recreative and entertaining work1 and to this end the first portion has been devoted to suggestions for the carrying on of a number of small business enterprises1 and the second and third parts to outdoor and indoor pastimes for all seasons of the year4 ,in ,profitable ,pastimes a boy will find work that will make easy the matter of earning money with which to buy such materials as he needs to carry out the suggestions offered in the book1 while the practical knowledge acquired and the handiness developed in pursuing the several lines of work is certain to be helpful to him in later years4 ,the tools and apparatus used are such as a boy of average ability can procure with a little hustling1 and can be purchased singly1 or two or three at a time1 as his money permits4 ,the materials at hand can be used in thousands of different ways1 and in preparing the chapters this has been taken into consideration1 these odds and ends being utilized whenever it has been possible to do so4 ,carpenter work is something with which every boy must familiarize himself to a certain extent in order to do anything in the line of construction1 so the fitting up of a workshop and the proper handling of tools have been described in the first two chapters1 in view of making it a simple matter to perform the work embodied in the rest of the book4 ,technical terms and phrases have been eliminated from the text as far as possible1 and where it has been deemed necessary to include them1 to describe certain operations for which a boy should know the proper terms or expressions1 they have generally been explained in the first chapter in which they occur4 ,to simplify the matter of referring to the definitions of these1 they have been arranged alphabetically in ,chapter ,,xxix4 ,some of the material contained in this book was originally written by the author in the form of magazine articles for ,the ,american ,boy and ,the ,boys' ,world1 and thanks are due the publishers1 ,the ,sprague ,publishing ,company and ,the ,david ,c4 ,cook ,publishing ,company1 for permission to reprint it4 ,this material has been revised and enlarged upon1 and is presented with new and additional illustrations4 ,the author is always glad to hear from his young readers1 and to be of assistance to them in answering any questions they wish to ask regarding their work4 ,a4 ,n4 ,h4 ,,chicago1 ,,illinois1 ,may #ca1 #aije4 ,,contents ,illustration3 ,boy ',fixing' ,clock with a ,hammer4 ,,part ,i ,,profitable ,,pastimes ,,chapter ,i ,,page ,a ,,boy',s ,,workshop #c ,value of a ,knowledge of ,carpenter ,work--,location of ,shop--,a ,solid ,work-bench--,the ,vise--,bench-stops--,carpenter's ,horses--,a ,bench-hook--,a ,mitre-box--,a ,sand-paper ,block--,a ,strop--,a ,plumb-- ,purchasing ,tools--,tool-cabinets--,racks for ,tools--,a ,carpenter's ,carrying-box--,a ,nail-box--,receptacles for ,supplies--,workshop ,clothes--,care of ,oily ,rags and ,waste4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,the ,,proper ,,handling ,,of ,,tools #bj ,care of ,tools--,the ,cross-cut ,saw and ,rip-saw--,sawing--,the ,back-saw1 ,compass-saw1 and ,gig-saw--,kerfs--,the ,jack-plane1 ,fore-plane1 and ,smoothing-plane--,planing--,testing ,work--,the ,firmer-chisel--,paring--,the ,framing-chisel-,chamfering and ,bevelling --,the ,gouge--,the ,draw-knife--,boring--,an ,automatic-drill-- ,hatchet and ,hammer--,driving ,nails--,withdrawing ,nails--,toe-nailing --,blind-nailing--,clinching--,the ,nail-set--,nails--,screw-driver for ,bit-stock--,screws--,the ,countersink4 ,,sharpening ,,tools #cg ,grinding ,chisels1 ,gouges1 ,draw-knives1 ,knives and ,hatchets--,the ,washita ,oil-stone--,whetting--,stropping--,shar pening ,saws4 ,,laying ,,out ,,work #db ,use of the ,try-square--,gauging with ,rule and ,pencil--,a ,marking-gauge --,a ,mitred ,try-square--,the ,bevel--,to ,divide a ,board4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,the ,,boy ,,about ,,the ,,house #dg ,opportunities for ,work--,outfit for ,jobbing--,the ,hinge-lock-- ,clothes-line ,reel--,a ,broom and ,dust-pan ,rack--,the ,fly-killer--,an ,ash-sifter--,a ,bread-board--,a ,plate-rack ,,chapter ,,iv ,,suggestions ,,for ,a ,,boy',s ,,room #eg ,simple and ,inexpensive ,furnishings--,what the ,room should ,contain--,a ,cosey-corner--,pennants--,small ,posters--,picture-frames--,a ,writing-desk--,another ,style of ,desk--,an ,ink-stand and ,pen-tray--,a ,couch--,a ,window-seat--,a ,curio-cabinet--,book-shelves--,a ,blacking-case--,a ,towel-rack4 ,,chapter ,v ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,doll-,,house #ga ,store ,doll-houses--,profit from making ,doll-houses--,the ,materials ,required--,the ,base--,the ,floors--,partitions and ,walls--,stairways --,balustrades--,front and ,rear ,steps--,the ,gambrel ,roof--,the ,gable-ends--,the ,doors and ,windows--,outside ,trimmings--,casters-- ,the ,chimneys--,a ,mantel and ,fire-place--,andirons--,the ,interior ,woodwork--,painting the ,house4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,another ,,doll-,,house ,,and ,a ,,stable #ia ,packing-cases and ,other ,material--,the ,floor ,plans--,the ,partitions and ,walls--,the ,elevator-shaft--,the ,windows--,the ,roof--,the ,chimney--,an ,elevator--,the ,gable-ends--,the ,stairway--,a ,balustrade --,other ,details4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,the ,,stable #ajj ,dimensions of ,stable--,the ,first ,story--,the ,roof--,the ,gable-ends-- ,the ,stall ,partitions and ,feed-troughs--,windows--,ladder to ,hay-loft --,feed-hoist--,the ,drop-front--,a ,stable ,door--,painting4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,furnishing ,,the ,,doll-,,house #aje ,the ,walls and ,ceiling--,hardwood ,floors--,carpets and ,rugs-- ,window-shades and ,curtains--,portieres--,pictures--,a ,cosey-corner-- ,buying ,furnishings4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,doll-,,furniture #aji ,metal ,furniture--,miniature ,mission ,furniture--,material--,drawing the ,patterns--,the ,chairs--,the ,settee--,tables--,a ,side-board--,a ,mirror--,the ,grandfather's ,clock--,kitchen ,furniture--,the ,beds-- ,the ,dresser--,a ,wash-stand--,finishing4 ,,other ,,cigar-,,box ,,furniture #abb ,a ,folding-bed--,the ,dresser--,a ,wardrobe4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,a ,,boy',s ,,printing-,,shop #abf ,location of ,printing-shop--,equipment--,selection of ,type-- ,type-cases--,a ,rack for ,type-cases--,a ,composing-stick--,a ,composing-rule--,justifying--,a ,home-made ,galley--,pieing--,proofs --,the ,imposing-stone--,the ,chase--,furniture--,locking-up a ,form-- ,distribution--,the ,tympan--,overlaying--,underlaying--,gau ge-pins-- ,inking the ,press--,care of ,rollers--,neatness--,receptacles for ,materials--,care of ,waste ,paper and ,oily ,rags4 ,,chapter ,x ,,amateur ,,journalism #adb ,a ,collection of ,amateur ,papers--,amateur ,press ,associations--,some ,methods of ,printing ,papers--,examples of ,amateur ,papers--,the ,character of a ,paper--,naming--,the ,frequency of ,publication--,the ,size of ,page--,a ,stereotyped ,heading--,the ,choice of ,type--,a ,cover --,binding--,advertisements--,the ,advertisers' ,dummy--,second-class ,matter4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,a ,,boy',s ,,dark-,,room #aec ,profit in ,photography--,the ,necessary ,equipment--,the ,bedroom as a ,dark-room--,the ,bath-room as a ,dark-room--,another ,scheme for a ,dark-room--,a ,work-table--,running ,water--,a ,water-tank--,a ,sink-- ,a ,washing-box--,a ,drying-rack--,another ,scheme for a ,drying-rack--,a ,cabinet--,a ,ruby-light--,a ,home-made ,lantern--,a ,plate-lifter-- ,classifying and ,preserving ,negatives--,manila ,envelopes--,a ,negative-case4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,a ,,winter ,,enterprise #afi ,an ,opportunity for ,making ,money--,a ,snow ,plough--,a ,scraper--,a ,snow ,shovel4 ,,part ,,ii ,,outdoor ,,pastimes ,,chapter ,,xiii ,a ,,back-,,yard ,,club-,,house #age ,how ,some ,boys ,built a ,club-house--,a ,mysterious ,letter--,drawing the ,plan of a ,club-house--,the ,material--,fishing ,studs--,staking out the ,building--,the ,studs--,boarding up the ,sides--,the ,roof--,the ,floor --,a ,window-sash--,a ,batten ,door--,wooden ,latch--,calking up ,cracks4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,how ,,to ,,build ,a ,,log-,,cabin #ahf ,the ,pioneer ,cabin--,the ,cabin of ,to-day--,selection of a ,site-- ,design and ,size--,the ,material--,staking out the ,cabin--,the ,lock-joint--,the ,sills--,construction of ,roof--,ridge ,boards--,a ,log ,chimney and ,fire-place--,calking--,a ,mud ,floor--,the ,windows--,the ,cabin ,door--,wooden ,hinges--,wooden ,latch--,the ,latch-string--,a ,mantel-shelf--,provision ,cupboard--,rustic ,seats--,bunks--,a ,camp-table--,a ,few ,pointers about ,camping--,utensils--,other ,necessities--,provisions4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,how ,,to ,,build ,a ,,canvas ,,canoe #bja ,canoeing as a ,sport--,popularity of ,canvas ,canoes--,materials--,the ,bow and ,stern ,pieces--,the ,keelson--,the ,mould--,putting the ,framework ,together--,the ,gunwales--,the ,ribbands--,the ,deck ,beams-- ,the ,ridge ,pieces--,the ,deck ,braces--,the ,cockpit--,the ,canvas ,covering--,the ,deck--,painting--,the ,cockpit ,coaming--,the ,keel-- ,the ,bilge-keels--,outside ,gunwales--,a ,seat--,how to mend ,punctures --,a ,single ,paddle4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,home-,,made ,,traps #bah ,trapping as a ,pastime--,the ,city ,boy and his ,country ,cousin--,the ,figure-four ,trap--,a ,box ,trap--,the ,dead ,fall--,the ,sieve ,trap--,the ,coop ,trap--,a ,rabbit ,snare--,a ,twitch-up--,the ,professional ,trapper --,wolves and ,coyotes--,story of a ,trapped ,indian4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,toy ,,guns1 ,,targets1 ,,and ,,bows ,,and ,,arrows #bbi ,ancient ,war ,engines--,new ,idea for a ,cross-bow--,shingle ,arrows--,a ,toy ,pistol--,cardboard ,bullets--,a ,shot-gun--,an ,elastic ,sling--,a ,boy's ,barrel-hoop ,target--,a ,simpler ,target--,how ,points are ,scored-- ,the ,bow and ,arrow--,length of ,bow--,the ,bow-string--,the ,arrow-shafts --,preparing ,arrow-heads--,feathering--,a ,quiver--,proper ,position for ,shooting with ,bow--,the ,indian's ,bow--,how his ,arrows were made and ,feathered--,the ,preparation of his ,arrow-heads4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,an ,,outdoor ,,gymnasium #bdc ,location for ,gymnasium--,a ,horizontal ,bar--,tumbling ,mat--,parallel ,bars--,the ,punching-bag ,platform--,a ,pair of ,jump ,standards--,a ,vaulting ,pole--,a ,spring-board--,hurdles--,a ,running ,track--,method of ,starting for ,short ,sprints--,mark for ,broad ,jumping--,an ,athletic ,club--,athletic ,meets4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,a ,,back-,,yard ,,circus #bee ,the ,ancient ,roman ,circus--,the ,circus of ,to-day--,how ,several ,boys gave a ,circus--,preparing the ,yard for a ,circus--,making the ,ring-- ,good ,circus ,seats--,a ,tent--,decorating the ,tent--,a ,ticket ,office-- ,a ,turnstile--,the ,side ,show--,cages for ,side ,show--,animated ,animals --,the ,elephant--,the ,giraffe--,the ,two-legged ,wild ,horse--,the ,wild ,man of ,borneo--,a ,monkey's ,make-up--,the ,ring ,master--,the ,clown's ,suit--,the ,attendants--,ideas for a ,performance--,a ,slapper-- ,looping the ,hoop on a ,giraffe--,a ,chariot--,parades--,the ,advertising ,signs4 ,,chapter ,,xx ,,suggestions ,,for ,,fourth ,,of ,,july #bgb ,the ,first ,fourth of ,july ,celebration--,pyrotechnics ,costly and ,dangerous to ,make--,the ,making of ,harmless and ,inexpensive ,fireworks--,a ,fire-cracker ,cannon--,to fire the ,cannon--,a ,fire-cracker ,mortar--,mimic ,battles with ,paper ,soldiers--,another ,toy ,cannon--,to fire the ,cannon--,firing ,fireworks from ,kites--,firing a ,pack of ,fire-crackers from a ,kite--,shooting ,nigger-chasers--,japanese ,lanterns hung from ,kite-strings--,a ,shooting-torch--,a ,final ,set-piece4 ,,chapter ,,xxi ,,halloween #bha ,ancient ,superstitions and ,origin of ,halloween--,a ,magazine ,bean-blower--,a ,new ,style of ,tick-tack--,a ,clockwork ,tick-tack-- ,the ,goblin-man--,the ,disappearing ,rope4 ,,chapter ,,xxii ,a ,,back-,,yard ,,toboggan-,,slide #bia ,one ,advantage of a ,small ,slide--,location--,length--,the ,platform-- ,framework--,railing around ,platform--,a ,ladder--,making a ,swift ,slide--,a ,home-made ,sled--,the ,runners--,renforcing the ,runners4 ,,part ,,iii ,,indoor ,,pastimes ,,chapter ,,xxiii ,a ,,miniature ,,theatre #cjc ,an ,interesting ,entertainment--,a ,picture-frame ,proscenium--,the ,stage ,framework--,the ,gridiron--,the ,stage ,floor--,the ,drop-curtain-- ,lighting the ,theatre--,the ,footlights--,floodlights--,colored ,lights --,spotlights--,admission ,tickets and ,programmes4 ,,chapter ,,xxiv ,,scenery1 ,,properties1 ,,and ,,mechanical ,,effects #caa ,materials for ,scenery--,an ,ocean ,scene--,additional ,waves--,frames for ,drops--,a ,mid-ocean ,scene--,a ,seashore ,scene--,a ,field ,scene-- ,the ,trees--,a ,blockhouse ,scene--,pine ,boughs for ,trees and ,shrubbery --,moss for ,mounds and ,hills--,rustic ,bridges--,a ,pond or ,lake--,a ,street ,scene--,an ,interior--,a ,war ,drama--,paper ,soldiers--,scheme for ,marching ,soldiers--,separate ,standards--,a ,jointed ,figure--,stage ,properties--,tents--,an ,indian ,teepee--,battleships--,trains and ,wagons--,mechanical ,effects--,thunder--,rain--,wind--,light ning-- ,the ,roar of ,cannon4 ,,chapter ,,xxv ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,railway #cca ,the ,trolley-line--,supports for ,trolley-line--,power for ,operating ,railway--,tracks--,the ,cars--,a ,gondola ,car--,a ,street ,car--,other ,cars--,operation of ,railway--,a ,station4 ,,chapter ,,xxvi ,,clockwork ,,automobiles #cdc ,procuring a ,set of ,clockworks--,an ,automobile ,touring-car--,the ,frame--,preparation of ,clockworks--,the ,belt--,testing the ,machine-- ,the ,cardboard ,sides--,wheels--,mud-guards--,lamps--,t he ,steering-wheel --,a ,horn--,the ,brake--,the ,chauffeur--,painting the ,machine--,an ,automobile ,delivery ,wagon--,the ,cardboard ,sides--,the ,wheels--,other ,portions--,painting the ,wagon--,a ,clockwork ,railway4 ,,chapter ,,xxvii ,,work ,,to ,,do ,,with ,a ,,knife #cef ,how ,boots were ,marked in a ,penitentiary--,a ,home-made ,fountain ,pen-- ,the ,magic ,pin-wheel--,to ,operate the ,pin-wheel--,a ,wooden ,chain and ,rattle--,the ,chain--,the ,rattle--,finishing the ,chain and ,rattle4 ,,chapter ,,xxviii ,,cork ,,toys #cfc ,materials ,required--,cork ,animals--,a ,pig--,a ,horse--,the ,elephant --,the ,giraffe--,a ,porcupine--,other ,animals--,the ,korka-bird--,a ,duck--,canoes--,small ,sail-boats--,cork ,furniture--,a ,chair--,the ,sofa--,a ,small ,tabouret--,a ,toy ,log-cabin4 ,,chapter ,,xxix ,,definitions ,,of ,,terms ,,and ,,phrases #cga ,,index #che ,,list ,,of ,,half-,,tone ,,illustrations 7,in addition to more than four hundred text illustrations47 ,,part ,i ,a ,boy's ,workshop ,frontispiece ,,opposite ,,page ,treatment of a ,boy's ,room #eh ,fig4 #fd4--;,a ,colonial ,doll-house #gh ,fig4 #if4--;,another ,style of ,doll-house #ij ,fig4 #ig4--;,interior ,view of ,doll-house ,an ,amateur's ,outfit #abh ,a ,group of ,amateur ,papers #adb ,fig4 #afh4--;,a ,handy ,dark-room #aed ,fig4 #agb4--;,a ,washing-box and ,drying-rack ,,part ,,ii ,in ,camp for the ,summer #age ,a ,boys' ,log-cabin #ahh ,two ,simple ,cabins #aih ,caught at ,last #bbf ,the ,back-yard ,circus #bfh ,,part ,,iii ,a ,miniature ,theatre #cjc ,fig4 #ccj4--;,a ,field ,scene #caf ,fig4 #cch4--;,a ,blockhouse ,scene ,fig4 #cci4--;,a ,street ,scene #cbj ,fig4 #cge4--,the ,car completed #cdd ,fig4 #cgf4--,the ,framework ,illustration3 ,boys at the ,bank4 ,illustration3 ,page ,decoration4 ,,part ,i ,profitable ,pastimes ,,chapter ,i ,a ,,boy',s ,,workshop ,illustration3 ,boy with ,box-kite and ,boy at ,work-bench4 ,carpenter work should be encouraged in a boy from the time he first becomes interested in it1 for besides being something with which to keep him busy1 the experience gained by its practice will be useful to him all his life1 no matter what branch of industry he may follow later on4 ,when a boy has learned the proper care and use of tools1 and is able to turn out neatly executed work1 he will find the occupation a profitable one1 there being an unlimited number of things he can make in his shop4 ,doll-houses for girl relatives1 toys for brothers and cousins1 and articles for the household1 such as are described in following chapters1 are a few of the many things he can construct4 ,many of these are salable articles1 besides being suitable for birthday and ,christmas gifts1 and should bring a neat sum of money to the young carpenter4 ,a knowledge of carpenter work also develops in a boy a handiness for devising and putting together articles and apparatus for his own use4 ,a boy should really have a shop where he can keep his tools and unfinished work with no danger of them being disturbed1 and where he need not be afraid of littering the floor with shavings or of making too much noise4 ,the ,workshop may be fitted up by the boy himself1 and a suitable place can probably be found in the basement1 barn1 or woodshed4 ,here a corner large enough to contain a work-bench1 carpenter's horses1 and tool-cabinets1 besides plenty of room to work in1 should be partitioned off1 and a window that will admit a good supply of light made in one side of the room1 if one has not already been provided4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4--;,end ,view of ,work-bench4 ,a ,solid ,work-bench1 six feet long1 thirty inches wide1 and thirty-two inches high1 should be constructed beneath the window4 ,it is a good idea to build this on to the wall if possible1 as it is easier to make a solid bench by doing so1 and the firmer it is1 the better4 ,first cut a two-by-four four feet long1 and spike it to the wall below the window1 twenty-eight inches above the floor4 ,then saw two pieces of two-by-four1 twenty-eight inches long1 for the legs1 and two pieces1 thirty inches long1 for crosspieces4 ,spike the crosspieces on to the legs and on to the piece nailed to the wall1 as shown in ,fig4 #a4 ,cut three ten-inch planks1 six feet long1 and spike them to the crosspieces so that they project twelve inches over the ends1 but are flush with the framework in front4 ,then cut a ten-inch board1 six feet long1 for an apron1 and1 after cutting the ends as shown in ,fig4 #d1 nail it across the front of the bench4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4--;,iron ,bench-screw4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4--,wooden ,bench-screw4 ,for fifty cents a fifteen-inch iron or wooden bench-screw1 similar to those in ,figs4 #b and #c1 can be purchased at a hardware store1 and the rest of ,the ,vise is simple to make4 ,figures #a1 #d1 and #e show the details for this4 ,take a board thirty inches long by six inches wide for the jaw1 and bore a hole a little larger than the screw1 six inches from one end4 ,bore another hole the same size through the apron and table-leg1 six inches below the bench-top 7see ,a in ,figs4 #d and #e74 ,the portion of the iron screw marked ,b in ,fig4 #b should be set into the hole bored in the bench-leg and screwed at ,e 7,fig4 #a71 while the portion ,d is to be screwed to the jaw4 ,if a wooden screw is used1 the portion ,c in the drawing 7,fig4 #c7 is nailed to the inside of the bench-leg4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #d4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,details of ,bench-vise4 ,in order to guide the bottom of the jaw1 an arrangement similar to ,f in ,fig4 #e should be made4 ,make a mortise two inches long by one inch wide near the bottom of the bench-leg and cut a strip of wood fifteen inches long to fit loosely in it4 ,then shut the vise and mark upon the inside of the jaw the place where the mortise comes in the leg4 ,nail one end of the fifteen-inch strip to the jaw at this point1 being careful to get it in such a position that the other end will slide into the mortise4 ,bore several holes in the strip and cut a peg to fit in them4 ,the jaw can now be kept parallel with the side of the bench by adjusting the peg1 which is very necessary in order to have the vise grip a piece of work squarely4 ,when you have a long board to work upon1 it cannot be held steady by the vise alone4 ,one end should be placed in the vise and the other rested upon a peg stuck in a hole bored in the side of the bench4 ,for boards of different lengths1 several holes should be bored1 as shown in the illustration of the finished bench 7see frontispiece71 and a movable peg cut to fit in them4 ,a ,bench-stop of some sort fastened to the top of the bench will be found useful to push work against while planing it1 when it is not convenient to use the vise4 ,figures #f1 #g1 and #h show the forms of stops most commonly used by carpenters4 ,of these the metal stop shown in ,fig4 #f is the most satisfactory1 as it can be adjusted to different heights4 ,it costs but little and is easily put in place4 ,a mortise is made in the top of the bench to receive the lower portion of the stop1 and the plate ,a is set flush with the bench-top and held in place with screws driven into the holes in the corners4 ,the centre of this plate 7,b7 is detached from the rest and mounted upon a small post1 which can be adjusted to the desired height by giving the screw at ,c a few turns with the screw-driver4 ,the teeth in the edge of ,b help to hold the work in position4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4 ,,fig4 #g4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,some ,forms of ,bench-stops4 ,one of the simplest forms of stops is shown in ,fig4 #g4 ,it consists of two screws placed in the top of the bench1 which can be raised or lowered with the screw-driver to the height you desire4 ,the stop shown in ,fig4 #h is made out of a block of wood with a bird's mouth cut in one side4 ,it should be nailed to one end of the bench in such a position that the end of the work can be placed in the bird's mouth4 ,while most of your work will be done on the bench1 and a good portion of sawing done with the wood in the vise1 large pieces1 especially long boards1 are generally sawn while placed across horses4 ,two ,carpenter's ,horses will be required4 ,a good scheme for these is shown in ,fig4 #i4 ,the top is made out of a piece of two-by-four with bevelled mortises cut in two sides of each end as in ,fig4 #aj4 ,these mortises are made to receive the legs1 and the angle of the bevel will of course determine the angle at which the legs will spread4 ,cut the legs out of four-inch boards1 and bevel the lower ends to make them set solidly upon the floor4 ,nail the legs firmly in place and brace them with two boards cut and fitted in place1 as in the illustration4 ,when the pieces have been nailed together1 plane off the tops of the legs to make them flush with the top of the horse1 and trim the lower ends if they require it until the horse is solid4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #i4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,boring1 paring1 and nailing on the bench will soon make the surface uneven1 unless something is placed beneath the work during such operations4 ,you should therefore make and use ,a ,bench-hook1 such as shown in ,fig4 #aa4 ,a good size is ten by twelve inches1 but it may be made larger or smaller if desired4 ,nail a strip along one edge of the under face and another strip along the opposite edge of the upper face4 ,the latter strip should have three kerfs cut in it as shown in the drawing1 one at right angles and the other two at forty-five degrees4 ,these may be laid off with a try-square1 as shown in ,figs4 #ch and #ci 7,chapter ,,ii71 or with the bevel1 as shown in ,fig4 #db4 ,be careful to keep the saw on the line and in a perfectly perpendicular position in making these kerfs4 ,the upper strip on the bench-hook serves the purpose of a stop1 and the kerfs make it possible to use the bench-hook for mitring with the back-saw4 ,further description of the uses of this handy article will be found in the following chapter4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aa4--;,a ,bench-hook4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ab4--;,a ,mitre-box4 ,you will need ,a ,mitre-box for cutting mitres in large work1 and this may be made as shown in ,fig4 #ab4 ,cut two pieces of seven-eighths inch maple1 or other hard wood1 twenty inches long by six inches wide1 and one piece twenty inches long by four inches wide4 ,nail the six-inch pieces to the edges of the four-inch piece as shown in the drawing1 after which you are ready to cut the mitres4 ,these should be laid out similar to those on the bench-hook1 by means of the mitred try-square or the bevel4 ,with the blade of the try-square or bevel extending across the top edges of the side-pieces1 mark off forty-five degree lines at ,a and ,b1 and a ninety degree line at ,c1 after which square the lines down both inner and outer face of the side-pieces4 ,when the lines have been accurately drawn1 it is a simple matter to make the kerfs1 if you have had any practice in sawing and can keep to a line4 ,no matter how skilful a carpenter is with his tools1 he generally depends upon his mitre-box in making mitres1 for not only accuracy is obtained by its use1 but time is also saved4 ,in using one be careful not to let the saw cut into the sides of the kerfs1 or the box will soon be rendered useless for making accurate mitres4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ac4--,sand-paper ,block4 ,before putting the finish upon a piece of work1 the wood should be thoroughly sand-papered4 ,in many cases certain portions cannot be reached by the hand1 and so ,a ,sand-paper ,block similar to ,fig4 #ac should be made4 ,cut a block of wood five inches long1 two and one-half inches wide1 and seven-eighths of an inch thick4 ,then place it in the vise1 and bevel one end and round the other as shown in the drawing4 ,an inch and one-half from each end cut rabbets one inch wide across the block1 and make two blocks to fit them4 ,when this has been done1 cut a strip of sand-paper two and one-half inches wide and stretch it around the block1 holding it in place by driving the small blocks into the rabbets4 ,you will find this sand-paper block very handy1 as some portion of it can be got into almost every corner you will ever have occasion to sand-paper4 ,the paper may be quickly replaced with a fresh piece when worn out4 ,a ,strop for putting keen edges on tools may be made out of a block of wood1 with a piece of shoe-leather1 or section of an old razor-strop1 glued to one side of it4 ,a ,plumb1 similar to ,fig4 #ad1 is a handy article to have for outdoor work1 such as erecting posts in perpendicular positions4 ,you will have need of it in putting up such buildings as the back-yard club-house1 the log-cabin1 and the erection of apparatus for the outdoor gymnasium1 the construction of which will be found in following chapters4 ,it consists of a stick1 the sides of which have been planed up true and parallel1 with a notch in one end and a cord with a weight attached fastened to the other end4 ,the notch should be cut in the exact centre of the end of the stick1 and the nail placed in the other end directly in line with the centre of the notch4 ,an iron nut1 or some such weight1 should be attached to the lower end of the cord4 ,by placing this stick at the side of an object1 you can determine whether or not it is plumb by the position of the string1 which should hang in the centre of the notch when the object is plumb4 ,the length of the stick may be made to suit the size of the work it is to be used upon4 ,four or five feet is a good length for ordinary outside work4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,in purchasing ,tools for your workshop it is not advisable to buy them in chests1 for they are almost always made of cheap material1 and poor tools are of no use to the boy who intends to do good work4 ,it is a much better plan to buy a few tools at a time1 getting a good quality of steel1 and to gradually increase your outfit as your money permits4 ,then if you really want a chest you can make it yourself4 ,a hatchet1 hammer1 saw1 plane1 chisel1 jack-knife1 bit and bit-stock1 screw-driver1 and square are the principal tools you will require1 and need be all you have to start out with4 ,others may be got as you have need of them1 and may be selected from the following list1 which includes probably all the tools a boy would ever have occasion to use4 ,,list ,,of ,,tools ,,from ,,which ,,to ,,make ,,your ,,selections #a #ad-;inch ,jack-plane4 #a #ah-;inch ,fore-plane4 #a #i-;inch ,smoothing-plane4 #a #bb-;inch ,rip-saw4 #a #bj-;inch ,cross-cut saw4 #a #ab-;inch ,back-saw4 #a #ab-;inch ,compass-saw4 #a ,gig-or ,bracket-saw4 #a ,ratchet ,brace4 #e ,auger-bits1 #a_/d-;inch1 #c_/h-;inch1 #a_/b-;inch1 #c_/d-;inch1 and #a-;inch4 #a ,expansive-bit4 ,several ,gimlet ,bits4 #a ,screw-driver ,bit4 #a ,countersink4 #a ,brad-awl4 #b ,hand ,gimlets4 #a ,automatic-drill4 #d ,chisels1 #a_/d-;inch1 #a_/b-;inch1 #c_/d-;inch1 and #a-;inch4 #b ,gouges1 #c_/h-;inch and #c_/d-;inch4 #a ,draw-knife4 #a ,jack-knife4 #a ,hatchet4 #a ,hammer4 #a ,tack ,hammer4 #a ,mallet4 #b ,nail-sets 7large and small74 #a ,hand ,screw-driver4 #a ,wood ,rasp4 #a ,metal ,file4 #a ,pair ,cutting ,nippers4 #a ,pair ,pincers4 #a ,grind-stone4 #a ,oil-stone and oil-can4 #a ,strop4 #a #b-;foot ,folding ,rule4 #a ,large ,steel ,square4 #a #g-;inch ,try-square4 #a ,bevel4 #a ,marking-gauge4 #a ,compass4 ,the proper care and handling of these tools is fully described and illustrated in the following chapter4 ,these directions should be carefully read before you attempt to use the tools1 especially the edge tools4 ,a ,cabinet will be found much better for an outfit of tools than a tool-chest1 as it can be more easily got at than a chest1 where it is necessary to lift several trays before you can reach a tool which has been put in the bottom4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ae4--,tool-cabinet4 ,the cabinet shown in ,fig4 #ae is made out of a box about three feet long1 two feet wide1 and nine inches deep4 ,make a door from the box-cover1 fastening the boards together by means of two battens placed at the top and bottom 7see illustration74 ,nail a cleat on each side of the cabinet six inches from the bottom1 and make a shelf to fit upon them4 ,racks for ,bits and ,chisels should be made similar to ,fig4 #af1 and fastened side by side to the inside of the cabinet4 ,cut a strip of wood about the size of the battens1 and make two slots in it1 one for the end of the saw to fit in and the other for the blade of the try-square 7see ,fig4 #ae74 ,this strip is fastened to the cabinet door a few inches above the bottom batten4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #af4--;,bit and ,chisel ,racks4 ,hang up the other tools on brass hooks4 ,after completing the cabinet1 paint it inside and out1 and fasten either a hook or lock to the door4 ,when this cabinet becomes too small for your increase in tools1 you can keep those you use the most in it1 and make ,another ,cabinet for the special and less used tools4 ,either screw the cabinets to the wall or support them upon brackets4 ,racks may be made for any tools you wish to hang on the wall4 ,a piece of grooved siding nailed above the bench will do nicely for the large square4 ,when you do outside work you will want something in which to carry such tools as will be required to complete the job4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ag4--;,a ,carpenter's ,carrying-box4 ,a ,carpenter's ,carrying-box should be made4 ,such a box is shown in ,fig4 #ag4 ,the box should be about twenty-seven inches long to accommodate the saws1 and it would be well to make the width eight inches and the height sixteen inches4 ,first prepare the end-pieces1 making them six by sixteen inches and rounding the tops with the compass-saw1 as shown in the illustration4 ,then cut a board twenty-five inches long by six inches wide for the bottom and nail the end-pieces to the ends of it4 ,make the side-pieces twenty-seven by eight inches1 and nail them to the end-pieces and to the edges of the bottom board4 ,the handle consists of a broom-stick fitted into holes bored near the tops of the end-pieces4 ,this box should be used for tools only1 and not have nails1 screws1 and bolts mixed up with them1 for these supplies should be kept in a special ,nail-box1 with compartments for the different sizes of nails1 screws1 hooks1 screw-eyes1 hinges1 etc4 ,one of the best kinds of boxes for this purpose is a knife-box such as can be bought for ten or fifteen cents4 ,this is divided in two and has a handle attached 7see ,fig4 #ah74 ,the two compartments should be sub-divided into smaller boxes1 either with pieces of cigar-boxes1 or with pieces of tin bent at the ends and fastened to the sides of the box1 as shown in the illustration4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ah4--,nail-box4 ,supplies of nails1 brads1 etc41 should be kept in cans and cigar-boxes of different sizes1 and it is a good idea to letter these receptacles that you may be able to put your hands upon what you want without having to hunt for it4 ,shelves will be handy to keep paint-cans and these boxes on4 ,workshop ,clothes4--,old clothes should be worn in the shop1 as carpenter work is rather hard upon them1 especially the trousers4 ,better than these is a pair of overalls and perhaps a jumper4 ,they are easy to work in and wear better than anything else4 ,a ,few ,hooks should be placed on the wall for hats and coats1 and for your working clothes1 if you change them in the shop before and after work4 ,to prevent your tools from being carried off1 and your work from being disturbed1 it is advisable to have a lock upon the door and keep your shop locked up when you are away4 ,to avoid danger of fire1 keep combustible articles1 such as oily waste and rags1 in covered tin cans1 and do not allow shavings and rubbish to accumulate4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,the ,,proper ,,handling ,,of ,,tools ,illustration3 ,boy at ,grind-stone and ,boy with ,bit-stock4 ,before using a tool be sure you understand the proper handling of it1 for there is probably nothing more easily injured than an edge tool in a sharpened condition4 ,an inexperienced person is very apt to dull or nick a tool by striking its edge against nails or by using it for purposes other than what it was made for4 ,for this reason a carpenter is very apt to refuse a boy1 or any amateur for that matter1 the use of his tools1 and he is right in doing so4 ,just imagine the amount of work it makes for him to put the tools in shape after they have been returned in all sorts of conditions4 ,a little rubbing on the oil-stone1 with an occasional grinding1 is all his tools require when he is using them1 but to remove nicks made by his young friends wastes too much of his valuable time4 ,a good rule to observe1 boys1 is never to lend tools to any of your friends1 for though they may be as careful in handling them as you are1 the chances are they will not be4 ,you had better be a little grouchy in this respect1 than to have tools which are unfit to do good work with4 ,the following directions1 together with the illustrations1 should make the handling of your tools perfectly clear1 and you will find among these a number of hints as to the care of tools that should be carefully adhered to in order that you may keep them in good condition4 ,saws4--,a boy can get along with two saws1 a cross-cut saw for general use and a compass-saw for finer work1 such as circular sawing1 and cutting thin wood where a large saw would be too coarse and apt to split the work4 ,but you will often have need of a rip-saw1 back-saw1 and bracket-saw4 ,they were therefore included in the list of tools on page #ad1 and you can add them to your outfit as your money permits4 ,the ,cross-cut ,saw is1 of course1 intended for cutting across the grain1 while the rip-saw is for cutting with the grain1 or ripping4 ,the former saw can be used for rip-sawing1 but the operation is much slower1 and when you have much of it to do1 as in ripping a six-foot board1 for instance1 you will find the work tedious4 ,the ,rip-saw is not fit for cross-cutting1 as it leaves the cut fibres in a very rough condition4 ,the difference in these two saws lies in the shape of their teeth4 ,this can be seen by picking them up and examining their cutting edges4 ,you will find the teeth are bent out of line1 the first to the right side and the next to the left4 ,this is known as the set of the teeth1 and the quality of your work will depend largely upon the care with which the teeth have been sharpened and set4 ,at first you may confuse these two saws1 but if you will notice that the teeth of the cross-cut saw come to sharp points and are bevelled on the sides1 while those of the rip-saw are not sharpened on the sides1 and instead of being pointed on the ends are chisel-shaped 7see ,figs4 #ai and #bj71 you will have little trouble in distinguishing them4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ai4--,teeth of ,cross-cut ,saw4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bj4--,teeth of ,rip ,saw4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ba4--,position for ,sawing4 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,sawing4--,small pieces may be sawn while held in the vise1 but1 as a rule1 large work is placed across a couple of horses4 ,it is generally the most convenient way4 ,grasp the saw in the right hand1 and take the position shown in ,fig4 #ba1 with the left knee upon the work to hold it in place1 and the left hand at the edge of the board4 ,the thumb should be pressed against the saw-blade to guide it until the cut has been well started1 as shown in ,fig4 #bb4 ,without the aid of the thumb the saw is liable to slip off the mark and make an ugly cut in the wood4 ,first use a few short strokes until the saw has started to cut4 ,then use a long1 steady stroke1 putting all of the pressure upon the down stroke4 ,be careful to keep the saw to the line and in a perpendicular position1 so that the cut will be square on all sides4 ,if it starts to run away from the line1 a slight twist of the blade will return it4 ,when a board has been sawn nearly in two1 remove the weight of your knee from it1 and hold the board with the left hand to prevent it from splitting off4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bc4--,position for using the ,back-saw4 ,fig4 #bc shows the correct position for using ,the ,back-saw1 which is intended for more delicate work than the larger saw1 such as can be sawn on the bench-hook or in the mitre-box4 ,it makes a finer cut1 its teeth being smaller and more closely set4 ,the blades of ,the ,compass-and ,gig-saws are small and narrow1 the former being used for circular cutting1 as the name would imply1 while the latter is employed in cutting very thin wood and in making delicate curves4 ,the blades of these saws1 especially the latter1 are easily broken1 and must be handled with care4 ,the teeth are arranged so as to cut with and against the grain4 ,the slot made by removing the fibre of the wood in sawing is known as ,a ,kerf4 ,the term is used a good deal in carpenter work1 so it is well to know its meaning4 ,the carpenter of to-day is generally supplied with all manner of planes1--rabbeting-planes1 beading-planes1 circular-planes1 ploughs1 etc41--besides the more commonly used jack-plane1 fore-plane1 and smoothing-plane4 ,each of these planes has a special form of work to do1 but ordinarily a boy will have occasion to use but the last three named1 and many get along with but a jack-and a smoothing-plane4 ,the ,jack-plane is the plane you will first need to remove the rough surface of undressed lumber1 and also to reduce quickly the thickness of wood4 ,the cutting edge of the blade is ground so as to gouge the wood1 removing thick shavings1 but leaving ridges and hollows which must afterward be removed by a fore-plane or smoothing-plane4 ,there is one trouble in using the smoothing-plane for this operation1 however1 and that lies in the danger of it following the hollows formed by the jack-plane1 making a smooth but uneven surface4 ,the ,fore-plane1 on the other hand1 has a long enough stock to prevent the blade from cutting the lower portions until the high portions have been removed4 ,although a fore-plane can be used alone for smoothing large work1 it is more convenient to finish up with ,the ,smoothing-plane4 ,the ,stanley iron plane1 shown in ,fig4 #bd1 is a great improvement over the old-style wooden ones1 and is the most popular plane used to-day4 ,it is more easily handled1 as its iron is quickly put in place and adjusted4 ,the illustration gives the names of the various parts4 ,the cap 7,b7 is screwed to the plane-iron 7,a71 and both are held in the stock 7,f7 by means of the clamp on the end of the wedge 7,c74 ,the thumb-screw 7,d7 regulates the degrees of fineness of the plane-iron1 while the lever 7,e71 which moves from side to side1 straightens the position of the iron4 ,the base of the stock is known as the sole1 or face4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bd4--,stanley ,iron ,plane4 ,a4 ,plane-iron4 ,b4 ,plane-iron ,cap4 ,c4 ,wedge or ,clamp4 ,d4 ,adjusting ,screw4 ,e4 ,adjusting ,lever4 ,f4 ,stock4 ,the ,bailey plane is somewhat similar to the ,stanley1 the upper portion being of iron with screw adjustment1 but the base being of wood4 ,its cost is much less than that of the entire iron plane1 and you will probably find it as satisfactory if you do not care to spend the additional amount for the ,stanley plane4 ,for ,planing1 take the position shown in ,fig4 #be1 with the left foot a little in advance of the right1 the right hand grasping the handle of the plane and the left holding the knob on the fore part of the stock4 ,use a long1 steady sweep1 and bear with equal pressure from the beginning of a stroke to the end1 to avoid the hollows that are so easily made by taking shavings of different thicknesses4 ,do not drag the plane-iron over the work in returning it for another stroke1 as it will dull its edge4 ,you will often come across wood with a crooked grain1 which runs diagonally through the piece1 terminating at the surface4 ,there is a right way and a wrong way in planing this1 just as there are two ways of stroking a cat's back1 one smoothing the surface1 while the other roughens it4 ,when you find a piece of wood with this kind of uncertain grain1 you will probably have to change the direction of your planing a number of times before finishing the surface1 in order to plane with the grain4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #be4--,take this ,position for ,planing4 ,in planing end-wood1 you will have trouble in preventing the corners of the piece from splitting off unless it is placed in the vise in front of another block of wood1 the planing being done toward the block4 ,or one corner may be chamfered with the chisel1 as shown in ,fig4 #bi4 ,testing ,work4--,it is necessary to test work frequently while planing1 in order to locate the high places and avoid taking off too much on the low places4 ,this may be done by squinting one eye and holding the board on a level with the other eye1 so that you can look down the length of it as in sighting a gun4 ,the uneven places show up very plainly in this way4 ,work is also tested by means of the try-square4 ,place the handle of the square against the edge of the work with the blade of the square extending across the planed surface1 and move it the length of the board4 ,any irregularities in the surface will show themselves as the blade passes over them4 ,in planing up a block of wood1 plane up one side and1 after proving it to be true1 use it for the tried edge1 testing the other sides with the handle of the square pressed against its surface4 ,there are a number of forms of ,chisels1 but the only two classes you will probably ever be in need of are the firmer-and framing-chisels4 ,the former are intended for hand use only1 while the latter are used for heavier work1 such as mortising1 where it becomes necessary to use the mallet4 ,in ,using a ,firmer-chisel1 the work should be placed in the vise or be otherwise held in position1 that both hands may be kept upon the tool1 the right hand grasping the upper end of the handle and doing the pushing1 while the left hand holds the lower part of the handle and acts as a guide in working it4 ,paring with the chisel consists in trimming a piece of wood to a given line4 ,it is an operation very often resorted to in finishing the end of a piece of work instead of planing1 and in trimming up a curved edge such as is shown in ,fig4 #bf4 ,here the line ,,ab represents the line of the finished end of a piece of work4 ,the board is first placed in a vise and the wood removed to about one-quarter inch of ,,ab with a compass-saw1 following the curve of the line as nearly as possible4 ,then lay the piece upon the bench-hook 7,fig4 #aa1 ,chap4 ,i71 and pare to the line with the chisel1 as shown in ,fig4 #bf4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bf ,,and #bg4--,paring4 ,the chisel is often used to pare down the surface of a piece of work to a given line1 as shown in ,fig4 #bg4 ,the ,framing-chisel should be held in the left hand1 and the blows dealt upon the handle with the mallet in the right hand4 ,in handling the framing-chisel the bevel of the blade should be toward the work1 which is just the opposite from that shown in ,figs4 #bf and #bg4 ,unless this is done the chisel will not cut down squarely but will cut in under1 as it cannot be guided as easily as the firmer-chisel can1 with both hands to hold it4 ,chamfering and ,bevelling are somewhat similar operations4 ,they consist in cutting the edges of a piece of wood1 as shown in ,figs4 #bh and #bi4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bh4--;,bevel4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bi4--;,chamfering4 ,the corner of a block of wood is very often chamfered1 when planing end-wood1 to prevent the wood from splintering4 ,it can only be done1 of course1 before the adjoining side has been planed up1 that a square corner can be obtained again when the work is finished4 ,the ,gouge is a chisel with a curved section1 its use being for cutting grooves and curvatures in a piece of work where the chisel cannot be employed4 ,a ,draw-knife is very handy for quickly reducing the size of material and in rounding sticks4 ,the blade is drawn toward you instead of being pushed as in the case of a plane or chisel4 ,boring4--,probably the only trouble you will have with the bit and bit-stock will be in holding the brace in a perfectly vertical position so as to bore a straight hole4 ,the centre of the hole should first be located upon the work4 ,then1 after selecting the right size of bit and securing it in the clutches of the bit-stock1 grasp the handle of the stock with the right hand and place the left hand on the top knob4 ,set the point of the bit against the work and bore steadily until the point appears upon the opposite side4 ,the bit should then be withdrawn and the rest of the hole bored from the other side4 ,this prevents the fibre around the hole from splintering off1 as it is likely to do when a hole is bored all the way through from one side4 ,to bore a hole in a piece of work held in the vise1 clamp a waste piece of wood in the vise with it1 and bore straight through the work into the waste piece4 ,when boring hard wood or using large bits increased pressure is necessary to operate the brace and at the same time steady the bit4 ,this can be obtained by allowing the chest to bear upon the top knob4 ,holes two inches or more in diameter do not require a bit that size1 for smaller holes can be bored and these trimmed to the required opening with a chisel or with the keyhole-saw4 ,whatever style of bit-stock you buy1 get one with a fair length of arm1 as a good leverage cannot be obtained with a short one4 ,an ,automatic-drill is a handy tool to have in the shop1 although not a necessity4 ,you have probably seen carpenters use it in drilling holes in hard wood1 before driving in finishing nails or screws4 ,it beats the awl and gimlet for speed1 and is a tool which can be used in places where neither of these could be operated4 ,the handle of the tool contains a number of sizes of drills4 ,this tool must be used with care1 as the drills snap off very easily when the tool is handled roughly or twisted from side to side while boring a hole4 ,the ,hatchet is an indispensable tool1 for it can be used for a good deal of your rough work1 such as splitting and paring4 ,it requires practice to handle one successfully1 however4 ,a misplaced blow will sometimes ruin your work1 either by cutting into it or striking grain which runs off into the portion to be finished4 ,with straight grained wood it is not so difficult to pare to a line with the hatchet4 ,the wood should be removed to within less than an eighth of an inch of the line1 as the work must be dressed up afterward with the plane4 ,it is well to have ,a ,hammer with a fairly heavy head for large work1 and a lighter one with which to drive small nails4 ,driving ,nails4--,the nail should first be held in position with the thumb and first two fingers1 and given a few light raps with the hammer to start it4 ,then remove the fingers1 and drive the nail home with steady blows1 being careful to hit the head squarely so it will not bend4 ,although a bent nail can be driven home with the proper stroke1 it is generally easier and quicker to withdraw it and either hammer it out straight or use another4 ,a pair of pincers are handy for ,withdrawing ,nails1 especially nails whose heads are too small to be gripped with a claw hammer2 but for removing large nails a stronger leverage is necessary4 ,this can be obtained as shown in ,fig4 #cj4 ,the head of the nail is gripped in the claw of the hammer and a block of wood placed beneath the head4 ,the handle of the hammer is then pulled toward you1 as shown in the illustration4 ,the block1 besides increasing the leverage1 prevents the hammer-head from injuring the surface of your work1 and makes it possible to withdraw the nail in a fairly straight condition4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cj4--,withdrawing ,nails4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ca4--,toe-nailing4 ,toe-nailing consists in driving nails diagonally into a piece of wood4 ,it is used in fastening the ends of uprights1 as shown in ,fig4 #ca1 where the nails cannot be driven in any other way1 and also where there is danger of a board springing4 ,you will often find it convenient to use this form of nailing when the nails are too long to be driven straight into the work4 ,blind-nailing is a form of toe-nailing used on tongue and grooved boards in which the heads of the nails are concealed below the surface1 as shown in ,fig4 #cb4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cb4--;,blind-nailing4 ,clinching4--,when nails come through a piece of wood their ends should be clinched4 ,this is done by having some one hold a hard surface1 such as the head or blade of a hatchet1 against the under side of the work1 or by laying the hatchet down and resting the work upon it1 while you drive the nail4 ,the point of the nail will bend over when it strikes the hard surface and sink into the wood4 ,this is the best method to use in fastening boards together with battens1 in rough work1 as the clinched nails act as rivets1 preventing any possibility of the boards pulling apart4 ,do not drive the head of a nail into a finished surface with the hammer1 as you are likely to mar the wood in doing so4 ,leave this--the setting of the nails--until the piece of work has been put together4 ,then go over it and drive the heads below the surface with ,the ,nail-set1 holding the tool as shown in ,fig4 #cc4 ,the holes made by the heads should be filled up with putty before the finish is put upon the wood4 ,before driving nails into hard wood1 holes should be made with the brad-awl or drill1 to prevent them from splitting the wood1 and to make it easier to drive them in without bending4 ,the holes should be a trifle smaller than the nails4 ,always drill a hole before driving a nail into thin wood or near the edge of a piece4 ,a nail can be driven more easily if its point is rubbed over a piece of soap4 ,this is something you should remember to do when nailing hard wood4 ,nails4--,iron1 galvanized-iron1 wire1 and copper nails are manufactured1 but of these the wire nail is the most commonly used for all kinds of work1 it being more easily handled1 not so liable to snap off1 and there being less danger of splitting your work with it than with the iron nails4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cc4--,setting ,nails4 ,you will notice the iron nails have two smooth sides and two rough ones4 ,in using these it is necessary to drive them with the smooth sides parallel with the grain1 otherwise they are sure to split the work4 ,nails are classified according to their shape and gauge4 ,the only kinds you will probably ever have occasion to use are the ,common1 or nail for all ordinary work2 the ,finishing-nail1 with the small head used on finish work2 and the ,brad1 or small-sized finishing-nail4 ,you can buy these by calling for the length you require1 but it is more businesslike to use the standard terms by which all carpenters know them4 ,the following table gives these terms1 together with the length in inches3-- #b-,penny ,nails 7#a inch long74 #c 7#a-a_/d inches long74 #d 7#a-a_/b 74 #e 7#a-c_/d 74 #f 7#b 74 #g 7#b-a_/d 74 #h 7#b-a_/b 74 #i 7#b-c_/d 74 #aj 7#c 74 #ab 7#c-a_/d 74 #af 7#c-a_/b 74 #bj 7#d 74 #cj 7#d-a_/b 74 #dj 7#e 74 #ej 7#e-a_/b 74 #fj 7#f 74 ,all nails longer than three and a half inches 7#bj;d to #fj;d inclusive7 are known as spikes4 ,it is desirable to have ,a ,screw-driver which will set in the clutches of your bit-stock1 besides the ordinary kind1 for it is more quickly operated1 and screws can be driven in hard wood easier on account of the greater amount of leverage you get with it4 ,holes should be drilled in hard wood before driving screws into it4 ,screws are made with round and flat heads4 ,the round-headed screw is a finishing screw1 and its head is left exposed on the surface of the wood2 but the flat-headed screw should be countersunk1 that is1 sunk below the surface4 ,to do this you must drill a hole before driving in the screw with ,the ,countersink1 which is a drill made to fit in the bit-stock1 and bores a hole the shape and depth of the screw-head4 ,,sharpening ,,tools ,be sure you understand the process of sharpening tools before you undertake to use the oil-and grind-stones4 ,all tools are not sharpened alike1 and you will need to know the different ways in order to get their cutting edges the right shape to serve their different purposes4 ,grinding is the most difficult part of the work1 and most boys have trouble with it4 ,one fault lies in using the grind-stone too frequently1 grinding the edge of a tool when it requires only a little rubbing upon the oil-stone to put it in shape1 and thus wearing down the tool unnecessarily4 ,again1 by not keeping the stone sufficiently wet1 the heat produced by the friction takes the temper out of the steel1 making it soft and useless until retempered4 ,if you have a stone with a crank arrangement1 it will be necessary to have some one turn it while you control the tool4 ,the stone should be turned toward the grinder and the tools held upward so the stone grinds against the edge instead of from it4 ,move the tools sideways across the stone so as to wear it down evenly and help prevent the formation of ridges in the stone1 which are very easily produced4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cd4--;,grinding the ,chisel4 ,figure #cd shows the position to take in grinding ,chisels4 ,hold the handle of the tool in the right hand and rest the palm of the left hand upon its blade4 ,then lower the edge upon the stone until the bevel strikes it flatly1 and bear down upon the blade with your left hand4 ,continue the grinding until the bright line of the dull edge has disappeared and an invisible edge has been obtained4 ,stop when this point is reached or the edge will become feathery and break off1 necessitating regrinding4 ,grind upon the bevelled edge only1 and hold the tool in the same relative position1 to prevent the bevel from becoming rounded4 ,the angle of the bevel should be about twenty-five degrees4 ,to keep this angle the same1 it is desirable to have a rest1 consisting of a board nailed to the frame of the stone1 upon which to support the handle of the chisel4 ,gouges and ,draw-knives are ground similarly1 the former being rocked from side to side1 in order to grind the curved bevel uniformly4 ,plane-irons are held with both hands1 as shown in ,fig4 #ce1 and ground the same1 except that the corners of the smoothing-and fore-plane irons are slightly rounded1 while the edge of the jack-plane iron is a little higher at the corners than in the centre1 to give it the qualities for removing thick shavings4 ,it is more difficult to keep the line between the bevel and upper part of the iron straight than in grinding chisels1 on account of the wider blade4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ce4--;,grinding the ,plane-iron4 ,knives and ,hatchets are ground upon both sides of the blade4 ,of course1 the edge of a tool is left in a very rough condition by the grind-stone1 and must be rubbed up on an oil-stone before it is fit to cut with4 ,there are many makes of whetstones1 many good ones and many worthless ones4 ,above all things1 don't buy a cheap one1 for it will be impossible to obtain keen edges upon it4 ,one of the best stones upon the market is ,the ,washita ,oil-stone1 a ,kansas stone of medium hardness1 free from grit and lumps1 and of good quality through and through4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cf4--,whetting a ,plane-iron4 ,,fig4 #cg4 ,in rubbing up a plane-iron1 grasp the end between the thumb and fingers of the right hand and place the palm of the left hand across the iron to bring the necessary pressure upon it 7see ,fig4 #cf74 ,instead of holding the blade on the stone at the angle of the bevel1 tip it to an angle of about thirty-five degrees1 or ten degrees more than that of the bevel4 ,with it held in this position1 rub it back and forth upon the stone with a rotary motion1 making a second narrow bevel along the edge of the tool 7see ,fig4 #cg74 ,be careful to keep the blade in the same position1 to prevent the bevels from becoming rounded4 ,by exerting a steady upward pressure against the end of the tool with the right hand1 and an equal downward pressure in the centre of the blade with the left hand1 this is easily accomplished4 ,the rough edge which appears on the back of the blade is removed by rubbing the flat side of the iron over the stone a few times4 ,care must be taken to keep the iron perfectly flat or a bevel will be formed4 ,a ,strop1 consisting of a piece of leather fastened to a block of wood as described in the foregoing chapter1 should be used after the oil-stone1 to put a fine edge upon the tool4 ,the tool is stropped in the same way as a razor is done4 ,saws require sharpening but once in a great while if proper care is taken of them4 ,when they do become dull1 or need to be set1 it is advisable for you to pay an experienced person to do the work rather than attempt it yourself4 ,,laying ,,out ,,work ,a two-foot carpenter's folding rule should generally be used in laying off measurements and a sharp-pointed pencil or brad-awl to locate the points4 ,to connect the points it is necessary to have a straight-edge--a steel framing-square 7,fig4 #db7 for large boards and a small try-square 7,fig4 #ch7 for smaller pieces--and a pencil or knife4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #ch-ci4 ,a pencil may be used in connecting points upon rough work1 but for greater accuracy a knife should be used1 as it makes a thinner and cleaner-cut line4 ,in making knife lines1 the square must be held very firmly1 to prevent it from slipping and allowing the knife to run out of its course4 ,to draw lines across a board at right angles to one edge 7which should be the straight or tried edge of the board7 with the steel-square1 place one arm of the square parallel with the tried edge and mark along the other arm4 ,to perform the same operation with the try-square1 place the handle against the tried edge1 as shown in ,fig4 #ch4 ,oftentimes it becomes necessary to draw a line parallel to the tried edge4 ,this may be done roughly with the rule and pencil1 as shown in ,fig4 #dj4 ,grasp the rule in the left hand1 with the first finger touching the tried edge of the board1 and hold the pencil point against the end of the rule with the right hand4 ,keeping this position1 with a steady hold on the rule and pencil1 move your hands along the board4 ,the result will be a line parallel to the tried edge4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dj4--;,gauging with ,rule and ,pencil4 ,at first you may have trouble in making a straight line1 but with practice you will be able to hold the rule and pencil steadily4 ,for particular work1 where it is necessary to get a perfectly straight and parallel line1 ,a ,marking-gauge should be used4 ,this is nothing more than the above principles combined in a tool4 ,it consists of a graduated shaft1 or rule1 with a small needle or spur in one end1 which slides through a mortise made in a block of wood known as the head4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #da4--,using the ,marking-gauge4 ,to operate the gauge1 set the adjustable head at the required division on the shaft1 and then grasp the head and shaft with the fingers of the right hand1 as shown in ,fig4 #da4 ,place the outer face of the head against the tried edge of your work1 and then1 pressing the spur into the wood1 move the gauge along the board1 at the same time keeping the face of the head firmly against the edge of the board4 ,the gauge is much more convenient than the other method of drawing parallel lines1 for you can repeat the measurement as often as you wish1 having once adjusted the head1 without having to lay it off again4 ,a ,try-square with a mitred handle costs but little more than the ordinary make1 and is much handier1 inasmuch as it can be employed in making mitres1 by placing the bevelled end against the side of the work instead of the straight side 7see ,figs4 #ch and #ci74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #db4 ,the ,bevel is in reality a try-square which can be adjusted to any desired angle4 ,to set it at an angle of forty-five degrees1 place it on the steel-square1 as shown in ,fig4 #db1 with the handle against the inner edge of one arm of the square and the blade resting on both arms4 ,move the blade until it strikes equal distances on the arms 7this is shown at four inches in the drawing7 and tighten the screw while it is in this position4 ,other angles may be drawn out upon a piece of wood and the bevel adjusted to them so these angles can be laid off upon other pieces4 ,you will find the bevel handy for reproducing angles4 ,however1 if you are supplied with a mitred try-square you can easily dispense with it for ordinary work4 ,there will be times when you wish ,to ,divide a ,board into a number of equal parts1 which may be found to be fractions of an inch that cannot be easily laid off with the rule in the ordinary way4 ,it can be accomplished with a pair of compasses1 but until you become practised in their use1 it will take some little time in setting them1 dividing1 resetting1 and redividing1 until the exact divisor is obtained4 ,a much quicker method is that performed with the rule1 as shown in ,fig4 #dc4 ,suppose you wish to divide a board four and three-quarters inches long into five equal parts4 ,place your rule across the board1 as shown in the illustration1 one end at one edge and the five-inch division at the opposite edge4 ,mark off the five divisions and then square the lines across the board at these points with the try-square4 ,this will give you the required five equal parts4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dc4--;,dividing a ,board ,equally4 ,in the same way longer boards may be divided up by using two-and three-inch divisions on the rule instead of one-inch1 and smaller pieces by using half-and quarter-inch divisions4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,the ,,boy ,,about ,,the ,,house ,illustration3 ,boy with ,carrying-box1 ,mother in ,kitchen4 ,there are generally repairs of some kind to be made about the house--such as mending screens1 renewing window-ropes1 repairing wooden walks1 patching fences1 etc4--which a boy can do1 besides many ingenious articles for the house which he can make in his workshop4 ,ideas for labor-saving devices which cannot be bought upon the market present themselves now and then1 and if there is a boy in the neighborhood to carry them out1 the housekeeper will be only too glad to pay him for doing the work4 ,for general jobbing you will require a carpenter's carrying-box 7,fig4 #ag1 ,chap4 ,i7 in which to carry your tools1 and a nail-box 7,fig4 #ah7 for nails1 screws1 hinges1 and such hardware as you will need upon the job4 ,with these you will have a complete outfit4 ,a few suggestions as to what you can do and what you can make are described and illustrated in this chapter1 and should give you plenty of material to work upon when you open up your carpenter-shop4 ,besides these ideas1 you will find most of the articles in the following chapter suitable for the house and pieces of furniture for which it will be easy to secure orders4 ,the ,hinge-lock1 in ,fig4 #dd1 is one of the most serviceable window-locks that can be had1 for it can be so placed as to allow the window to be opened a few inches for ventilation1 and at the same time prevent further opening4 ,the hinge is screwed to the upper sash-frame several inches above the centre sash-bar1 according to the distance the window is to be opened 7see illustration74 ,it will be seen that when the hinge is opened1 as in the drawing1 neither sash can be opened past the hinge2 but when the hinge is folded flat it will not interfere with the opening of either sash4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dd4--,the ,hinge ,window ,lock4 ,this lock would probably be more extensively used if people knew how simple and satisfactory it is4 ,as the hinges cost but a few cents a pair1 and are put on very quickly1 a boy should realize a fair sum of money in a short time supplying these locks4 ,a ,clothes-line ,reel1 such as shown in ,fig4 #de1 is an article no housekeeper should be without4 ,its use does away with twisted1 tangled1 and knotted clothes-lines4 ,as they require but little material1 and the cost of that amounts to almost nothing1 the manufacture of these time-saving devices1 for the neighbors1 should prove profitable4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #de4--;,a ,clothes-line ,reel4 ,the reel consists of two strips of wood sixteen inches long by three inches wide for the sides1 and two pieces of broom-handles sixteen inches long for the horizontal rods 7see ,fig4 #de74 ,five inches from each end of the side-pieces1 bore a hole the size of the broom-handle4 ,with the pieces thus prepared it is a simple matter to fit them together1 as in the illustration1 placing the broom-handles in the holes bored for them1 and fastening them so the side-pieces are nine inches apart and a handle five inches long projects on either side4 ,it is probably needless to say that the ends of the broom-sticks are held in the hands when operating the reel4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #df4--;,broom and ,dust-pan ,rack4 ,a ,broom and ,dust-pan ,rack is a handy article for the kitchen or broom-closet1 and can be made as shown in ,fig4 #df4 ,a rack to hold a large and small broom1 dust-pan1 and brush1 should measure three feet long1 three inches wide1 and be made out of a seven-eighths-inch board4 ,bevel the edges and place four brass hooks in the front1 as shown in the drawing1 from which to hang the broom1 dust-pan1 etc4 ,brooms should always be dampened and put away1 handle down1 according to the advice of an old broom-maker1 who claims that by so doing the straws are kept from becoming brittle and the broom lasts much longer4 ,the brooms should therefore have screw-eyes placed in the handle1 just above the tin binding1 to hang upon the hooks1 as shown in the illustration4 ,the rack should be screwed to the wall4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dg4--;,a ,fly-killer4 ,fly-papers and poisons are deadly enemies to the house-fly1 but none are as effectual or as quick acting as ,the ,fly-killer1 shown in ,fig4 #dg4 ,this simple device consists of a piece of screen-wire1 about four by five inches1 stuck into a slot made in the end of a stick1 and fastened in place with tacks driven through the end of the handle and clinched upon the under side4 ,if possible1 cut the wire with a selvage along the front edge1 and trim the roughness from the other edges to prevent scratching4 ,the fly-killer is hung up by a screw-eye placed in the end of the handle4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dh4--;,an ,ash-sifter4 ,with the fly-killer a person can strike at a fly with almost a certainty of killing it4 ,as the screen-wire is not easily seen by the fly1 and the mesh allows the air to pass through1 there is nothing to alarm him4 ,these little things are quickly made1 and when you show your customer how effective they are1 you will find no trouble in disposing of them4 ,an ,ash-sifter that is dust-proof and very satisfactory is shown in ,fig4 #dh4 ,it is made out of a packing-case about three feet long1 eighteen inches wide1 and twenty-four inches deep4 ,set the box upon two-by-four stilts in the shed or yard 7braced as shown in the illustration71 in such a position that the bottom of the box will be on a level with the top of the alley ash-box4 ,then cut an opening through the shed wall and end of the box1 as shown at ,,ab1 for the removal of ashes4 ,two strips are nailed to the sides of the box 7seven inches below the top7 for tracks for the sifter to run upon1 and below this1 at ,c1 a board slide is placed to dump the ashes1 which shake through the sifter1 out of the opening in the end of the box into the ash-box4 ,nail one half of the cover to the top of the box and hinge the other half to it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #di4--,the ,sifter4 ,make the sifter eighteen inches square by six inches deep1 using six-inch boards for the frame and one-third or one-half inch wire-mesh for the bottom 7see ,fig4 #di7 ,fasten four trunk-casters1 such as are shown in ,fig4 #ej1 to the bottom of the frame1 and fit a broom-stick in one side for a handle4 ,a slot must be cut in the end of the box for the handle to fit in4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ej4 ,trunk-caster4 ,a ,bread-board may be made out of a seven-eighths inch maple board about ten by eighteen inches1 with the surface planed perfectly smooth and the edges bevelled or rounded4 ,a hole should be bored near one edge1 so it may be hung up in the pantry4 ,the dining-room is not complete without ,a ,plate-rack for the display of pretty pieces of china4 ,figures #ea and #eb show the details for the construction of a rack of three shelves1 and in size three feet long and two feet ten inches high4 ,although the design is very simple in outline1 it is such as will make a pleasing piece of furniture when neatly carried out4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ea4--;,a ,plate-rack4 ,prepare the two side-pieces the shape and size shown in ,fig4 #eb1 and cut the shelves two feet ten inches long by the widths given in the drawing 7,fig4 #eb74 ,one groove should be made in shelf ,a and two in shelves ,b and ,c1 for the edges of plates to stand in4 ,these grooves are cut with a chisel1 and should be made ,v-shaped as shown4 ,narrow strips of wood may be nailed along the shelves as substitutes for the grooves if you wish1 but the work required to plane up the strips will amount to about as much1 and they do not present as neat an appearance4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eb4 ,having cut out the shelves and side-pieces1 you are ready to put the rack together4 ,for this purpose you should use finishing-nails so their heads will not make very large holes in the surface of the wood4 ,fasten the bottom shelf 7,c7 between the side-pieces seven inches above the bottom1 the middle shelf 7,b7 ten inches above that1 and the top shelf 7,a7 nine inches above the middle shelf4 ,the inner edges of the shelves should be fastened flush with the edges of the sides4 ,in the bottom shelf place a row of brass hooks for cups to hang upon4 ,it is necessary to fasten three strips two inches wide between the sides in the back of the rack 7as shown in the drawing7 for the tops of the plates to rest against4 ,two holes should be bored in the top strip1 by which to hang the rack on nails or hooks fastened in the wall4 ,after completing the carpenter-work1 finish the rack with a stain which will harmonize with the color scheme of the room in which it is to hang4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,suggestions ,,for ,a ,,boy',s ,,room ,illustration3 ,boy ,reading1 ,boy ,writing4 ,it is far better for a boy to spend his evenings in the house than out upon the street4 ,he need not be without his friends there1 for if he has an attractive room1 with books to read1 games to play1 and puzzles to solve1 the boys of the neighborhood will soon find it out and be only too glad to have a chance to visit him1 knowing they will be sure of finding plenty of things to interest them4 ,the simpler the furnishings of a boy's room are the better4 ,plain and substantial furniture which will stand perhaps a little rougher usage than that in other rooms of the house1 and handy places for storing away his traps1 are what are needed4 ,the room should be his den where he can keep what he pleases1 and arrange the fittings to suit his individual tastes4 ,shelves for his books and magazines1 a cabinet for various collections1 boxes for miscellaneous articles1 and a desk at which he can study and keep his accounts1 are a few of the things the room should contain4 ,these pieces can easily be constructed in the workshop1 by following the directions given in this chapter4 ,on the opposite page is shown a scheme for a boy's room suggestive of his sports1 games1 and handicraft1 and while everything is simple and inexpensive in the furnishings1 it makes a room that will strike the fancy of the average boy4 ,nothing appears more attractive than ,a ,cosey-corner1 such as shown in the illustration1 and it is a simple matter to fit one up4 ,a home-made couch1 box1 or seat of some sort should be constructed to set in the corner1 a shelf fastened to one wall a foot or more above it1 and several shelves hung on the adjoining wall1 as shown in the drawing4 ,purchase several yards of a dark shade of green denim1 and enclose the corner with three strips 7see illustration74 ,the upper strip is stretched across the corner at the ceiling1 and the other two attached to its ends and allowed to hang to the floor4 ,it is a good idea to make also a dado of the same material within the corner from the baseboard to the under side of the shelves4 ,pennants representative of the various colleges can be made out of cheese-cloth1 and a string of these hung across the corner at the ceiling will produce a pretty effect4 ,the walls of the room may be brightened with ,small ,posters1 which it is an easy matter to obtain nowadays1 and small pictures mounted upon colored mats and fastened behind glass by means of passe-partout paper are always attractive4 ,illustration3 ,,treatment ,,of ,a ,,boy',s ,,room4 ,picture-frames can be made out of narrow moulding1 the corners of which have been mitred in the mitre-box to make them join neatly4 ,a frame which has proven satisfactory for small posters and pictures not requiring glass is one made out of common laths4 ,the ends of the laths are not mitred as is usually the case in making frames1 but are fastened together with what is known as a butt-joint2 that is1 the ends of each piece are set against the ends of the adjoining pieces4 ,the simplest way of fastening them together is by means of small strips of wood nailed across the corners on the back of the frame4 ,although this frame might be expected to have a clumsy appearance1 it has not1 and when thoroughly sand-papered and finished with a dull green stain is very pretty4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ec4--;,a ,writing-desk4 ,the ,writing-desk shown in ,fig4 #ec is constructed out of a box1 and makes a pretty piece of furniture when completed4 ,procure a box as free from defects as possible1 and with fairly wide boards1 so there will be but few cracks4 ,the cover should be in not more than two pieces1 as it forms the drop-front of the desk1 and it would be difficult to fasten more together4 ,the boards must be fastened with dowels and cleats on the edges1 as shown in ,fig4 #ed1 as cleats upon the inside of the drop would be in the way4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ed4 ,dowelling consists in boring holes along the edge of each board and fitting pegs in them4 ,of course the holes must be bored in exactly the same relative positions in each piece so that the end and sides of the boards will be flush with each other when the pegs have been put in place4 ,to get the holes correctly bored1 place the boards together in the vise with two edges flush and uppermost1 and square lines six inches apart across the edges1 after which locate the centres of the holes on these lines4 ,be careful to bore the holes straight1 and make them a little longer than the pegs4 ,cut the pegs out of hard wood and make them large enough to fit tightly in the holes4 ,the pegs as well as the two edges of the boards should be smeared with glue before being put together4 ,then1 after driving in the dowels1 clamp the pieces together and lay them aside until the glue has thoroughly dried4 ,in order to make a neat joint between the two boards1 it is very necessary to have the two edges planed perfectly true and square4 ,while the boards of the drop-front are drying1 you can prepare the inside of the box4 ,a boy's desk should be supplied with plenty of pigeon-holes and drawers4 ,they are as necessary as pockets are in his clothes4 ,split-up cigar-boxes may be used for these divisions1 and1 by making the upper ones of the right size1 cigar-boxes may be fitted in them for drawers4 ,the paper should be removed from the boxes as described in ,chapter ,,viii4 ,fasten small silk-spools to the front of the drawers for knobs4 ,when the dowelled pieces have dried1 nail a small moulding around the two end edges and one side edge1 mitring the ends so as to fit together as shown at ,a 7,fig4 #ed74 ,the drop-front should be hinged to the box with two hinges placed on the inside1 as shown in ,fig4 #ec1 and brass chains attached to screw-eyes screwed into it and the inside of the box4 ,for the top of the box1 purchase a moulding a little larger than that used around the edges of the drop-front and mitre it at the corners1 as shown in the illustration4 ,before putting any finish upon the desk1 sand-paper the wood1 set the nails with a nail-set1 and fill all holes and cracks with putty4 ,a couple of coats of white enamel applied to the outside will produce a very pretty effect1 and the inside may be finished with linseed oil1 which makes a beautiful finish for the cigar-boxes4 ,the desk should be supported on two iron brackets 7enamelled to match the desk71 screwed to the wall and under side of the desk4 ,in ,fig4 #ee will be found ,another ,style of ,desk1 which1 though not as simple to make1 may be preferred to the first design4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ee4--;,another ,style of ,desk4 ,cut two boards fifteen inches long by twelve inches wide for the sides1 and taper each from twelve inches at one end to eight inches at the other end4 ,cut a board twelve by thirty inches for the bottom and another eight by thirty for the top1 and nail them to the end pieces1 after which saw the boards for the back and drop-front4 ,dowel and glue the drop-front boards together1 nail a moulding around three edges1 and hinge the piece to the desk1 as in the case of the other design4 ,partition off the inside of the desk as shown in the illustration1 and nail a moulding around the top4 ,finish the wood in the manner described for the other desk4 ,an ,ink-stand and ,pen-tray1 suitable for your desk1 can be made out of a cigar-box1 as shown in ,fig4 #ef4 ,slope the edges with your jack-knife and cut several notches in them for pens and pencils to fit in4 ,the wood should then be sand-papered and oiled4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ef4--;,ink-stand and ,pen-tray4 ,a ,couch for the cosey-corner of your room can be made out of two boxes about three feet long1 two feet wide1 and eighteen inches deep4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eg4--;,a ,couch4 ,remove one side of each box and nail the covers on1 after which place the two boxes end to end and fasten them together with strips nailed across them at ,a1 ,b1 and ,c 7,fig4 #eg74 ,an incline about eighteen inches long should be fastened to one end1 as shown in the drawing4 ,the inside of the boxes may be partitioned off and used for storing away magazines and pamphlets4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eh4--;,a ,window-seat4 ,for the covering of the couch procure several yards of cretonne1 some cotton batting or an old quilt to pad the top1 a box of upholstering-tacks1 and several dozen brass-headed tacks4 ,after spreading the padding over the couch1 cut a piece of cretonne large enough to cover it and tack it to the edge of the boxes1 using the upholstering-tacks for the purpose4 ,make a valance of the same material1 gathering the cretonne so as to form a heading at the top1 and tack it around the box4 ,then place the brass tacks along the top of the valance about two inches apart4 ,if a couch is too large for your room you can make ,a ,window-seat1 such as is shown in ,fig4 #eh4 ,cut the arms the shape shown in the illustration and fasten them to the ends of the box4 ,batten the boards forming the box-cover on the under side4 ,then tack cretonne on to the cover1 arms1 and outside of the box1 placing padding underneath the cretonne to make it soft1 and line the inside of the box with some dainty colored goods4 ,when this has been done1 hinge the cover to the box with large fancy brass hinges4 ,the appearance of the seat will be greatly improved by placing brass tacks along the edges of the arms and seat1 about two inches apart4 ,the inside of the box will make a handy receptacle for clothes and linen4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ei4--;,a ,curio-cabinet4 ,for those interested in making collections of stamps1 coins1 stones1 insects1 etc41 ,a ,curio-cabinet1 similar to ,fig4 #ei1 will make it possible to keep all specimens arranged in order1 each set of curios occupying a shelf by itself4 ,such a cabinet should be made of bass or whitewood1 as these can generally be obtained in greater widths1 are cheaper1 and less defective than other material4 ,if you make your cabinet five feet high1 two feet wide 7inside measurement71 and twelve inches deep1 purchase twelve-inch boards1 as these make it possible to have the sides in one piece and the back in two1 a great advantage1 as there will then be but one crack1 and that up through the centre of the back4 ,after cutting the side-pieces the correct length1 finish their edges as in the drawing4 ,then cut nine boards two feet long for the shelves1 which are to be placed six inches apart4 ,commencing at the top of each side-piece1 lay off the thickness of a shelf1 which will be about seven-eighths of an inch1 and square the lines across the boards2 then lay off the next shelf six inches below1 and so on down to the bottom4 ,cut along these lines to a depth of three-eighths of an inch with a saw1 and remove the wood between with a chisel4 ,when all the grooves have been cut1 slip the shelves into them one by one1 and nail them to the side-pieces4 ,after fastening the shelves1 cut the two twelve-inch boards for the back and nail them in place4 ,while it is customary to put sash-doors on cabinets1 this will be too difficult a job for you to attempt4 ,a very pretty and inexpensive door may be made as in the illustration4 ,make a frame out of two-inch strips to fit the opening1 and stretch some green denim over it1 tacking it to the inside of the frame4 ,the ends of the strips forming the frame should be mitred and either nailed together or fastened with dowels and glue1 as described in the construction of the desk 7see ,fig4 #ed74 ,hinge the frame to the cabinet4 ,to finish the cabinet1 rub it down with sand-paper1 set the nails with a nail-set1 and putty up all holes1 after which stain the wood green1 a shade darker than the denim panel in the front4 ,although the shelves may be simply stained1 they will be much nicer for holding curios if covered with felt4 ,it might be well to suggest that you number each curio1 and make a catalogue of these1 together with the names and any data you have concerning them4 ,the catalogue may be hung on a hook upon the inside of the door1 where it can always be found4 ,a pretty set of ,book-shelves to hang upon the wall can be made with three boards twenty-four inches long by eight inches wide1 four dozen spools all of the same size1 and two pieces of rope about four feet long and small enough to fit in the holes of the spools4 ,by saving the empty spools from your mother's work-basket1 and having your friends save their spools for you1 it will not be very long until you have the required number4 ,spools upon which number thirty-six cotton thread comes are of the best length4 ,bore holes in the four corners of each board4 ,then1 beginning with the board which is to form the bottom shelf1 pass the ropes down through the holes on one side1 across under the shelf1 and up through the holes on the opposite side4 ,string six spools on each rope and put the ropes through the holes in the next shelf2 then string six more spools on each rope and run the ropes through the next or top shelf4 ,tie the ropes together about a foot above the top shelf1 fringing the ends to form tassels4 ,figure #fj shows the shelves completed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fj4--,spool ,book-shelves4 ,a ,blacking-case made similar to ,fig4 #fa is a handy article for a boy to have in his room4 ,as the friction from a rag rubbed over the shoe produces a finer polish than a brush when polishing paste is used1 the box is provided with an arrangement by which a rag can be rubbed over the shoe without much effort 7see illustration74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fa4--;,a ,blacking-case4 ,procure a box about the size of a soap or cracker-box1 and fasten a board in it for a foot-rest1 as shown at ,a in the drawing4 ,on each side of this place a piece of a broom-handle a little shorter than the inside width of the box1 and pivot them at the ends with wire nails driven through the sides of the box1 as shown in the illustration4 ,gimlet holes should be made in the sides of the box so the nails will fit loosely in them4 ,procure a strip of canton-flannel twenty-four inches long by six inches wide1 and1 after sewing two brass rings to each end1 pass the cloth under the rollers and over the foot-rest1 as shown in the illustration4 ,the lower part of the box will hold your boxes of blacking and the brushes4 ,to have access to this1 a board should be removed from the side of the box and hinged as at ,b and ,c in the illustration4 ,place a button-catch just above it to keep it shut4 ,fasten together the boards forming the box-cover with battens1 and hinge them to the end of the box4 ,the outside of the case will be improved greatly if covered with denim4 ,after applying the paste to the shoe1 the foot should be slipped under the cloth which passes over the foot-rest4 ,two fingers of each hand should then be placed in the rings and the cloth pulled back and forth over the rollers until the shoe is polished4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fb4--;,a ,towel-rack4 ,a ,towel-rack1 such as is shown in ,fig4 #fb1 is made in four pieces1--a board about eighteen inches long for the back1 two arms six inches long1 and a piece of broom-handle eighteen inches long4 ,after cutting out the arms the shape shown in ,fig4 #fc1 bore a hole large enough for a broom-handle to fit in each4 ,bevel the edges of the eighteen-inch board1 and then nail it to the arms1 driving the nails through this piece into the arms4 ,fit the piece of broom-handle into the holes bored for them1 and trim off the ends so that about one inch projects beyond the face of each arm4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fc4 ,sand-paper the wood1 and either paint or varnish it4 ,attach screw-eyes to the top of the back board and hang the rack by these to hooks placed in the wall4 ,,chapter ,v ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,doll-,,house ,illustration3 ,boy ,presenting ,doll-house to his ,sisters ,the average store doll-house is made of thin wood1 which is full of defects and likely to warp1 besides being put together in such a flimsy manner as to soon fall apart4 ,the majority of these are imported houses1 designed and planned in foreign styles1 the exteriors being covered with clumsy ornament and gaudily painted1 while the interiors are very poorly planned and proportioned4 ,americanized doll-houses are seldom seen in the market1 and the few there are will generally be found very expensive4 ,there is probably nothing more interesting for a boy to make than a doll-house4 ,it is like building your own house on a small scale1 the details and proportions having to be just as carefully worked out to make a good-appearing house4 ,try the construction of a house for one of your girl relatives and see how much she will appreciate it4 ,then having completed one and learned the many little tricks there are in doing this work1 you will find it quicker and easier to turn out others to sell4 ,neatly made houses are always salable1 and it should be an easy matter for you to make arrangements with a toy dealer in your town1 to place some of your work in his store to sell on commission4 ,the doll-house designed and detailed in this chapter is easily constructed and ,the ,materials ,required do not amount to very much4 ,boards ten inches wide and one-half inch thick are preferable for the general construction1 with a few four-inch boards one inch thick for the base and a few other details4 ,basswood probably will be found the easiest wood to work with1 as it is soft1 straight-grained1 and free from knots4 ,packing-cases may be used to advantage when they are of the right size1 but they are generally made of a cheap grade of pine1 full of knots and other defects that make it difficult to do a good job4 ,cigar-boxes make the nicest material for the interior finish1 and a number of all sizes should be procured for this purpose4 ,prepare the boxes for use as described in ,chapter ,,viii4 ,fourpenny nails should be purchased for the rough carpenter work1 and brads and glue for attaching finishing-strips and all light wood4 ,paints and other material are specified as required4 ,as shown on the plans 7,figs4 #fe1 #ff1 and #fg71 the house described in this chapter is of three floors1 containing nine rooms1 and is in size1 thirty inches wide1 twenty inches deep1 and three feet high4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #fe-gj4--,plans of ,doll-house and ,patterns for the ,partitions4 ,the ,base1 or false basement1 should be made first4 ,it consists of two four-by-one inch boards thirty inches long and two twenty inches long1 with the ends mitred and fastened together in the form of a frame4 ,upon this ,lay the ,first ,floor1 allowing but one-half inch of the boards to bear on the frame on all sides4 ,then lay off the first-floor plan 7,fig4 #fe7 upon this floor with a pencil and square1 locating the partitions by means of the dimensions given on the plan4 ,make the ,partitions ,a1 ,b1 and ,c1 the shape and size shown in ,fig4 #fh1 and nail them to the places marked out for them on the floor4 ,the ,stairs from first to second floors 7,fig4 #ga7 should now be constructed as described later under the head of ,stairways1 as it would be difficult to set them in place after the walls are up4 ,make the ,front and ,rear ,walls twenty-nine inches wide and twenty inches high1 and nail them to the edges of the floor4 ,the outside surface of the walls should now be in line with the base4 ,leave the cutting of the windows until the rest of the house has been put together4 ,the walls may be prevented from spreading by means of temporary braces nailed across the tops4 ,lay the ,second ,floor1 cutting a three by ten inch stair opening in the place indicated on the plan 7,fig4 #ff71 and fasten the boards to the front and rear walls4 ,draw upon this the second-floor plan1 and ,cut ,out ,partitions ,d1 ,e1 ,f1 and ,g1 as shown in ,fig4 #fi4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ga4--;,details of ,inside ,stairs4 ,after nailing these partitions to the places marked out for them1 and building in the stairs1 ,lay the ,third ,floor 7,fig4 #fg71 cutting a three by seven inch stair opening1 and fastening the boards in place as you did those of the second floor4 ,stairways4--,while each stairway should be built before the floor above is laid1 in order that the work can more easily be done1 they have been left for description here1 that they might be spoken of in a general way4 ,in ,figs4 #ga1 #gb1 #gc1 #gd1 and #ge will be found complete details for these4 ,the first things to prepare are ,the ,stair ,stringers1 or supports for the steps 7treads and risers74 ,cut from a piece of cardboard what is known as ,the ,pitch-board1 the pattern by which to lay out the steps 7,fig4 #gc74 ,then draw a line lengthwise upon a thin strip of wood 7,,ab in ,fig4 #gb71 and lay off the pitch-board on this as shown in ,fig4 #gb--sixteen times for the first to second story stairs and fifteen times for the second to third story stairs4 ,draw the line ,,de parallel to ,,ab1 and the lines ,,cd and ,,ef as shown4 ,then cut out the stringer along the lines ,,cdef1 being careful in doing so not to split off the corners4 ,prepare two stringers for each flight of stairs4 ,the ,treads and ,risers should be cut as shown in ,fig4 #gd1 and the ,newel-posts and ,hand-rails as shown in ,fig4 #ge4 ,make a small groove in the bottom of the hand-rail as shown in the drawing4 ,toothpicks are of just the right size for ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #gb-ge4--;,details of ,inside ,stairs4 ,the ,balusters4--,as brads are likely to split the thin cigar-box wood1 the staircases should be put together with glue4 ,first fasten the stringers in place1 cutting a slot in the edge of the floors for the tops to set in1 as shown in ,fig4 #ga4 ,then glue on the treads and risers1 and cut the bottom of the newel-post to fit over the second step4 ,the lower end of the toothpick balusters are set into slits cut with a knife in the treads1 and the upper ends fit in the groove cut in the hand-rail4 ,the ,balustrades around the stair openings on the second and third floors are made in the same way 7see ,fig4 #ga74 ,as finished floors are to be laid in the halls1 as described later1 it will be well at this point to fasten a strip from a cigar-box around the stair openings1 upon which to fasten the newels and in which to stick the ends of the balusters4 ,the drawings give every detail and measurement necessary for the making of these stairs1 and everything will work out correctly if the directions are closely followed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gf4--,the ,front ,steps4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fd4 ,a ,,colonial ,,doll-,,house4 ,the ,front ,steps are made as shown in ,fig4 #gf4 ,cut out two balustrades the shape and size shown in the drawing4 ,then prepare two stringers of five steps1 cutting them exactly the same as for the other stairs1 and glue them to the inner faces of the balustrades4 ,the treads and risers are the same as for the other stairs1 except that they are four inches in length4 ,cut the top platform two and one-half inches wide4 ,the ,rear ,steps may be built similar to the front1 or may be made simpler by leaving off the risers and balustrade4 ,the ,ends of the ,house should measure twenty inches square4 ,fasten the boards together with battens at top and bottom1 and hinge them to the rear wall 7see plans and ,fig4 #fd74 ,small hooks on the ends of the house will make it possible to fasten them shut4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gg4--,make ,gable-ends like ,this4 ,the roof is what is known as ,the ,gambrel or ,octagonal ,roof1 and consists of two eight and two nine inch boards thirty-four inches long4 ,before fastening these in place1 it will be necessary to make ,the ,gable-ends1 which are cut out as shown in ,fig4 #gg4 ,make the partition between the nursery and ball-room 7,h7 in the same way1 with a door cut in it1 as shown in ,fig4 #gj4 ,fasten the partition and gable-ends in place1 after which nail the roof boards ,b and ,c 7,fig4 #gj7 to the top1 allowing them to project over each gable4 ,the lower boards ,a and ,d should be hinged to these1 so they may be raised to get at the upper story4 ,the edges of the boards must be bevelled in order to make perfect joints4 ,when the work has proceeded thus far1 cut ,the ,door and ,window ,openings in the places indicated upon the plans and ,fig4 #fd1 first boring holes in the four corners of each window and door space2 and then connecting them with a compass-saw4 ,with the exception of the front and rear door1 and the windows in the basement and gable-ends1 make all openings three by five inches1 and two inches above the floor4 ,the casement window openings in the gable-ends are to be four by five inches and extend to the floor4 ,cut three-by-seven-inch openings for the doors1 and make the basement window openings two by three inches4 ,figs4 #gh1 #gi1 #hj1 #ha1 and #hb show the construction of ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #gh-hb4--;,details of ,dormer ,windows4 ,the ,dormer ,windows4 ,these are made from cigar-boxes4 ,for the three dormers1 you will require six pieces the shape of ,a for the sides1 three of ,b for the gable-ends1 and six of ,c for the roof 7see ,figs4 #hj1 #ha1 and #hb74 ,with the different parts cut out1 it is a simple matter to fasten them together on the roof1 by means of glue and small brads4 ,the glass is bound to the ends of the side-pieces at ,d and ,e with strips of linen1 as shown in ,figs4 #gh and #gi1 and the gable-end sets on the top edge4 ,the dormers should be placed directly over the lower windows and in line with the front wall 7see ,fig4 #gi74 ,old four-by-five camera plates may be used for ,the ,window ,glass1 by cutting them down to the required dimensions--three by five inches for the first and second stories1 and two by three inches for the dormer and basement windows4 ,four-by-five plates are the right size for the casement windows4 ,as the basement is to represent stone1 there will be no finish around the openings1 and the glass will have to be held in place with cigar-box strips on the inside and putty on the outside1 as shown in ,figs4 #hc and #hd4 ,the glass should be fastened in the first and second story windows by means of putty and strips of cigar-boxes 7see ,figs4 #he1 #hf1 and #hg74 ,we will make the inside and outside trim the same to simplify matters2 so cut two sets of strips for each window1 making them the shape and size shown in ,figs4 #he and #hg4 ,fasten the outside strips in place first1 then slip the ends of the glass into the centre of the wall and nail on the inside strips4 ,fill in the spaces between the glass and strips with putty to hold the glass firmly in place4 ,the ,casement ,windows 7,fig4 #hh7 are made similarly1 with the addition of a quarter of an inch strip of a cigar-box glued up the centre of the glass1 to give the appearance of double windows hinged to swing in4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #hc-ia4--;,details of ,windows4 ,narrow strips of paper glued to the glass1 as shown in ,figs4 #gh1 #hc1 #he1 and #hh1 will produce the effect of ,divided ,glass and upper and lower sash4 ,the ,door ,trim 7,figs4 #hi1 #ij1 and #ia7 is put in place the same as the window trim1 but instead of placing the door in the centre of the wall1 it should be set flush with the inside trim 7see ,k1 ,l1 and ,m in plan1 ,fig4 #ij71 and is hinged by means of a linen strip glued to the edge of the door ,m and strip ,l4 ,the door-jambs are cased with strips ,i and ,j4 ,the rear door may be made simpler than this by using a plain strip for a cap4 ,make the ,door out of a piece of cigar-box4 ,the drawings give all the necessary measurements for door and window strips1 and you will find it a simple matter to cut them out with a sharp knife4 ,after putting the trim upon all of the windows and the doors1 cut a number of strips of wood an eighth of an inch thick and half an inch wide for ,outside ,trimmings1 and nail them to each corner of the house1 around the edges of each gable-end1 and around the top of the basement4 ,purchase some narrow moulding for the cornice and nail it to the edges of the roof boards1 being careful to make neat mitres at the corners4 ,the house can more easily be moved about if mounted upon ,casters4 ,to put these on1 cut four pieces of two-by-four about three inches long1 fasten a caster to each1 and nail one block inside each corner of the foundation frame4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ib4--;,construction of ,chimneys4 ,the exterior of the house is now complete with the exception of ,the ,chimneys4 ,these should be made up of four pieces1 two of which should have bird's-mouth cuts made in the end1 as shown in ,fig4 #ib1 to make the chimney fit over the top ridge of the roof4 ,the side edges of the pieces should be mitred and fitted together4 ,nail a strip of wood1 half an inch wide1 around the tops of the chimneys for caps4 ,you will find it easier to ,paint the ,chimneys before fastening them to the roof4 ,make the brickwork red and the caps white1 and with a small brush and ruler stripe off the mortar joints4 ,when the paint has thoroughly dried1 nail the chimneys on to the ridge of the roof in line with the front windows 7see illustration of completed house74 ,you will want ,a ,mantel and ,fire-place in the living-room of the house1 and it had better be built in at this point4 ,figure #ic shows about the simplest form of mantel you can make1 and one that presents a very neat appearance4 ,it is made out of cigar-box strips painted to represent brick1 with stone hearth and mantel-shelf4 ,it measures seven inches wide1 four and five-eighths inches from the base to the top of the shelf1 and has a fire-place opening four inches wide and two and one-half inches high4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ic4--,the ,living-room ,mantel4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #id4--;,construction of ,mantel4 ,figure #id shows the patterns for the cutting of the various pieces required to make up the mantel4 ,a1 the front piece1 has an opening cut in it for the fire-place1 as shown in the drawing4 ,cut two strips similar to ,b for the ends of the mantel1 one the size of ,c for the back of the fire-place1 two of ,d for the sides of the fire-place1 and one of ,e for the mantel-shelf4 ,these pieces1 with the exception of ,e1 should be painted red1 and striped off1 when dry1 with white paint to represent brick4 ,it will be much easier to do the painting before fastening the pieces in their proper places4 ,first divide the length and breadth of the pieces into about the number of spaces shown in ,fig4 #ic with a lead pencil4 ,then with a small brush1 and straight-edge for a guide1 trace over the pencil lines with white lead4 ,be careful in striping the brick to get the courses the same upon each piece so they will correspond when the pieces are put together4 ,the ,hearth is made out of a strip seven inches long by two inches wide4 ,upon this the mantel should be put together with the pieces prepared4 ,figure #ic shows the location of each piece1 and with the aid of glue and some small brads it will be a simple matter to complete the mantel4 ,the edges of the strips had best be mitred to make neat joints4 ,paint the hearth and mantel-shelf white4 ,the mantel should be fastened to the centre of partition ,b in the living-room 7see plan1 ,fig4 #fe74 ,andirons should1 of course1 accompany the fire-place4 ,these may be made as shown in ,fig4 #ie4 ,they consist of two pieces of cigar-boxes cut the shape of ,a and ,b 7,a an inch and one-half by an inch and one-quarter1 and ,b an inch and one-half long71 with the end of ,b glued in a slot cut in the lower part of ,a4 ,the feet and the top of ,a and the foot of ,b are small brass-headed upholstering-tacks driven into the wood1 which give the andirons a trim appearance4 ,paint the strips black4 ,set the andirons upon the hearth with the ends projecting into the fire-place1 and pile several nicely shaped twigs upon them for logs4 ,the ,interior ,woodwork remains to be put on4 ,cigar-boxes make excellent imitation hardwood floors1 for the halls1 the ball-room1 and nursery4 ,select as large pieces as possible1 and fit them on the floors with close joints4 ,nail them down with small brads4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ie4--;,andiron4 ,make the door casings from the same material1 cutting the strips the shape and size of those used for the outside doors 7,fig4 #hi74 ,it is not advisable to hang inside doors1 as they are easily broken off1 and seldom work satisfactorily4 ,a chair-rail should be made in the dining-room of quarter-inch strips fastened to the walls three inches above the floor4 ,make baseboards in each room out of three-quarter inch strips1 and picture mouldings out of strips an eighth of an inch wide4 ,after completing the carpenter work of the house ,set all ,nail-heads with your nail-set1 putty these holes and all others resulting from cracks and defects1 and sand-paper the rough surfaces4 ,if the woodwork is to be finished in its natural color1 by varnishing or oiling its surface1 color the putty to match the wood4 ,paint the ,house a cream color1 with white trimmings and a green roof1 using yellow-ochre and white lead 7mixed7 for the walls2 white lead for the trimmings1 balustrade of front steps1 chimney-caps1 and striping of brickwork2 dark olive green for the roof1 and treads and risers of the front steps2 and lamp-black for striping the stonework of the basement4 ,the painting of the chimneys and fire-place has been described4 ,paint the front door on both sides with white enamel or white lead1 with the exception of a panel in the centre1 which should be oiled as shown in ,fig4 #hi4 ,this will give the appearance of a white enamelled door with a mahogany panel set in it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #if4 ,another ,style of ,doll-,house4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ig4 ,interior ,view of ,doll-,house4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,another ,,doll-,,house ,,and ,a ,,stable ,illustration3 ,boys ,making ,doll-house4 ,photographs of another style of doll-house are shown in ,figs4 #if and #ig4 ,this house was built by the author for a little relative some ten years ago1 and is still in perfect condition1 as the photographs show4 ,packing-cases were used for its construction1 with cut-up cigar-boxes for window-casings1 door-jambs1 finished floors1 etc41 and small mouldings for the outside trimmings4 ,the inside arrangement and the general construction of the house is so nearly like the design in the preceding chapter1 that most of the details and the mode of construction may be followed in building it4 ,if boxes are used1 the dimensions will have to be figured out to suit1 unless the boxes are pulled apart and the boards cut to the sizes shown in the illustrations of this chapter4 ,the ,floor ,plans1 which will be found in ,figs4 #ih1 #ii1 and #ajj1 give the sizes of the rooms1 and the patterns for the making of ,the ,partitions are shown in ,figs4 #aja and #ajb4 ,in cutting out the second-floor partitions 7,fig4 #ajb71 mitre one edge of ,e and ,f to allow for the bedroom door opening1 shown upon the plan1 and mitre the edges of ,g to fit between them above the door4 ,the mitring is shown in the drawings 7,fig4 #ajb74 ,besides cutting a stair opening in the second floor1 make an opening three by five inches in the second and third floors for ,the ,elevator-shaft4 ,care must be taken to have these openings exactly over one another4 ,make the opening in the second floor six by eight inches in the place indicated upon the plan4 ,this will allow for the elevator shaft and stairway4 ,no stairway has been built to the third story1 as the elevator serves the purpose1 and one would take up too much of the ball-room space4 ,the ,side ,walls should measure nineteen inches wide by twenty-four inches high1 and the other two walls thirty inches wide by twenty-four inches high4 ,that portion of ,the ,rear ,wall enclosing the kitchen and bath-room is hinged to open 7see ,fig4 #ih71 and ,the ,front ,wall is made in two sections1 each hinged to a strip of wood an inch and one-half wide nailed to the two edges of the house1 as shown in ,fig4 #if4 ,the ,windows are four by five inches1 so four-by-five camera plates can be used for the glass4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #ih-ajb4--,plans of ,doll-house and ,patterns for ,partitions4 ,the ,roof had best be made in two sections1 each measuring twenty-eight inches long by twenty-four inches wide4 ,fasten the boards together with battens on the under side and1 after mitring the upper edge of each1 nail them to the house so that the ridge is fifteen inches above the third floor4 ,then nail a board nineteen inches long by ten inches wide in the peak of the roof 7,d in ,fig4 #ajd71 and a narrow strip three inches from each side wall 7,k and ,l in ,fig4 #ajj74 ,these cut off the triangular shape of the ball-room and give it a better appearance4 ,the ,chimney is made the same as those for the other house1 with the exception of the cap1 which is built up of strips of cigar-boxes to represent corbelled brick 7see ,fig4 #ajc74 ,these strips should be three-sixteenths of an inch wide1 and fastened in place by means of small brads4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajc4 ,an ,elevator is something which is found in but few doll-houses4 ,it was built in this house1 thinking it might please the young mistress1 and proved such a success that the scheme has been worked out carefully in ,figs4 #ajd1 #aje1 #ajf1 #ajg1 and #ajh1 that you may include it in the house you build4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #ajd-ajh4--;,details of the ,elevator4 ,the cutting of the elevator-shaft has already been described4 ,for material1 procure two small pulleys1 such as are shown in ,fig4 #ajf1 four feet of brass chain1 six feet of ,no4 #ab wire1 half a dozen double-pointed tacks or very small screw-eyes1 a short piece of lead pipe1 and a cigar-box4 ,make ,the ,car out of the cigar-box1 cutting it down to two and one-quarter inches wide1 three and three-quarters inches deep1 and seven inches high 7see ,fig4 #ajg74 ,place two of the double-pointed tacks or screw-eyes in each side of the car for the guide-wires to run through and another in the centre of the top from which to attach the brass chain4 ,the ,guide-wires are made of very heavy wire that will not easily bend4 ,cut two of a length to reach from the first floor to the ball-room ceiling1 and after running them through the tacks in the sides of the car1 stick their ends into small holes bored at ,e1 ,f1 ,g1 and ,h 7,fig4 #ajd74 ,the upper holes should be bored through the ball-room ceiling1 while the lower ones need be bored but part way through the first floor4 ,care must be taken to have these holes in the correct position1 so the elevator will run up and down upon the wires without striking the sides of the shaft4 ,the easiest way of fastening the wires in place is to run the upper ends through the holes1 until the lower ends can be set into their sockets1 and then drive two double-pointed tacks over the top of each wire1 as shown at ,e and ,f in ,fig4 #ajd4 ,now run the elevator up to the top of the shaft1 and mark upon the ceiling where the screw-eye in the top of the car strikes4 ,at this point bore a hole through the ceiling and two inches back of it bore another hole1 through which to run the weight-chain4 ,when this has been done1 cut a short block of wood to fit the peak of the roof and ,screw the ,pulleys to it two inches apart 7,fig4 #aje74 ,fit the block in the peak of the roof1 centring the front pulley over the top of the car as nearly as possible1 and drive a couple of nails through the roof boards into it to hold it in place temporarily4 ,then ,attach the ,chain to the tack in the top of the car1 slip a piece of lead pipe about an inch long over the chain1 allowing it to set on the top of the car to make the latter heavier 7,fig4 #ajg71 and run the chain up through the first hole in the ceiling1 over the pulleys1 and down through the second hole4 ,to the end of the chain attach a piece of lead pipe for ,the ,elevator-weight 7see ,fig4 #ajh74--,this should be just heavy enough to make a perfect balance between it and the car1 which can be obtained by whittling off the end of the pipe until the weight of the two is the same4 ,make the chain of sufficient length so the weight will rest upon the first floor when the car is at the third floor4 ,you can now tell whether or not the pulleys are in the right positions4 ,when they have been adjusted properly1 nail the block firmly in place4 ,the ,gable-ends4--,the front gable-end consists of four pieces 7,a1 ,b1 ,c1 and ,d1 in ,fig4 #aji71 the dimensions for the cutting of which are given in the illustration4 ,after preparing these1 nail ,a1 ,b1 and ,c in their proper positions in the gable of the roof1 and trim the edges of ,d1 if they need be1 to fit between4 ,to prevent the movable section from pushing in too far1 it will be necessary to nail a narrow strip of wood to the roof and third floor just inside of it4 ,the rear gable is made in one piece1 and is fastened in place permanently4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aji4--,the ,front ,gable-end4 ,the movable gable and all hinged portions should have ,spring-catches with which to shut up and lock the house 7see the illustrations74 ,the ,stairway is shown in ,fig4 #ajd1 and the details for its construction will be found in ,figs4 #aaj1 #aaa1 #aab1 #aac4 ,this stairway is made in two parts1 with a platform between4 ,cut a block of wood the shape and size shown in ,fig4 #aaj for the platform1 with notches at ,a and ,b for the tops of the lower stringers to fit in4 ,then ,prepare ,two ,stringers of thirteen risers similar to ,fig4 #aaa and two stringers of five risers similar to ,fig4 #aab1 laying them off as described in the preceding chapter by means of a pitch-board similar to ,fig4 #aac4 ,after cutting out these pieces1 fasten the tops of the lower stringers in the notches ,a and ,b in the platform1 and nail the platform in its proper position in the corner of the hall4 ,when this has been done1 nail the bottoms of the upper stringers 7,e in ,fig4 #aab7 to the sides of the platform at ,c and ,d1 and set the tops in notches cut in the edge of the second floor4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #aaj-aac4--;,details of ,stairs4 ,the ,treads and ,risers are made the same as in ,fig4 #gd 7,chap4 ,v71 except that the depth of the risers is increased to five-eighths of an inch4 ,cut another platform from a cigar-box to fit over the rough one4 ,build a ,balustrade up the side of the stairs and around the elevator enclosures1 using the scheme shown in ,chapter ,v 7,figs4 #ga and #ge74 ,all ,other ,details not mentioned here will be the same as described in ,chapter ,v1 including the painting and finishing of the house4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,the ,,stable ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aad4--;,exterior of ,stable4 ,the stable shown in ,figs4 #aad and #aae1 and in the background of ,fig4 #if1 will go nicely with the house described in this or the preceding chapter4 ,its construction is very simple4 ,the dimensions are twenty-four inches wide1 twelve inches deep1 and twenty-two inches high1 and the barn contains five stalls on the ground floor and a hay-loft above4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aae4--;,interior of ,stable4 ,to build the stable according to the drawings1 a box ten by twelve by twenty-four inches should be procured for ,the ,first ,story4--,if you have a box of different proportions it will be a simple matter to make such alterations in the details as it will require4 ,the ,roof is made in two sections1 each fifteen by eighteen inches1 and is fastened to the top of the box so that the peak is twenty-two inches above the bottom4 ,the ,gable-end is made in four pieces1 as shown in ,fig4 #aaf1 ,a1 ,b1 and ,c1 to be nailed in place1 and ,d to be movable as in the case of the doll-house4 ,make a three-by-five-inch window in the centre of ,d1 and fasten the glass in place with strips cut as described in ,chapter ,v4 ,strips should be nailed to the roof just inside of the movable section to prevent the latter from setting in too far1 and a spring catch fastened to ,c and ,d as shown1 to hold the movable section in place4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aaf4--;,front ,gable-end4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aag4--,stall ,partitions4 ,figure #aag gives the patterns and measurements for ,the ,stall ,partitions1 four of which should be cut out and fastened to the floor of the stable four inches apart1 or so they will divide the inside width into five equal stalls4 ,the ,feed-troughs are made out of two strips of cigar-boxes fitted between the stalls1 as shown in ,figs4 #aae and #aag1 and are fastened in place by means of brads and glue4 ,above the stalls cut ,small ,windows an inch and one-half square in the rear wall4 ,these are the ventilating windows for the stalls1 and may be left open4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aah4--,ladder to ,hay-loft4 ,figure #aah shows the construction of ,a ,ladder to the hay-loft4 ,this is made out of two sticks twelve inches long1 with strips of cigar-boxes two inches long glued to them half an inch apart1 as shown in the drawing4 ,cut away a section of the hay-loft floor two inches square and stick the end of the ladder up through the opening1 fastening the uprights to the edge of the floor 7see ,fig4 #aah74 ,a stick about three inches long1 with a very small pulley attached near the end1 should be fastened in the peak of the roof for a ,feed-hoist 7see ,fig4 #aad74 ,the first story has ,a ,drop-front1 as shown in ,figs4 #aad and #aae4 ,this is made from the box-cover4 ,fasten the boards together with battens placed upon the inside1 and hinge it to the bottom of the stable4 ,nail two cleats to the under side of the floor 7see ,fig4 #aad7 to lift it off the ground1 just enough to allow the front to drop without springing its hinges4 ,when the front is down it forms an incline upon which to run the horses into the stable4 ,for this reason it is not advisable to cut an opening in it1 but merely ,represent a ,stable ,door on the outside 7see ,fig4 #aad74 ,this is done with paint and a fine brush4 ,first paint a green panel in the centre of the front1 and then mark off a couple of panels within this space with black paint1 and stripe them diagonally to represent beaded-boards4 ,with strips of wood half an inch wide make ,a ,simple ,trim around the door1 the sides of the stable1 and around the gable1 as shown in the illustration4 ,when the carpenter work has been finished1 ,paint the ,inside of the stable white1 and the outside the same colors as used for the doll-houses 7see description on page #ij1 ,chap4 ,v74 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,furnishing ,,the ,,doll-,,house ,illustration3 ,boy ,presenting ,doll-house to his ,sisters4 ,with the carpenter work of a doll-house completed1 the finishing of the inside1--wall papering and painting1--and the selection of furniture for the various rooms1 remain to be done4 ,this requires as much care as the building of the house1 and while any boy can do the work1 the help of a sister will perhaps simplify matters and give to the rooms a daintier appearance4 ,the ,walls and ,ceiling of the kitchen and bath-room should be painted with white lead or white enamel4 ,for the other rooms select paper having a small design1 such as is to be found on most ceiling papers4 ,if you have ever watched the paper-hanger at work1 you have noticed he puts on the ceiling first1 allowing the paper to run down the walls a little way all around instead of trimming it off4 ,then he hangs the wall paper1 and if there is no border to cover the joints of the ceiling and wall papers he carries the wall paper up to the ceiling4 ,use flour paste to stick on the paper1 and a cloth or photograph-print roller to smooth out the wrinkles4 ,the dining-room should have a wainscot of dark paper below the chair-rail1 and a paper with little or no figure upon it above4 ,all ,hardwood ,floors1 the stairs1 door and window casings1 baseboards1 and picture mouldings should be varnished thoroughly or given several coats of boiled linseed-oil4 ,all floors1 with the exception of the kitchen1 bath-room1 and hardwood floors1 should be fitted with ,carpets4--,if you do not happen to have suitable scraps on hand1 they can be procured at almost any furnishing store where they make up carpets4 ,select pieces with as small patterns as possible4 ,the floors of the bath-room and kitchen should be covered with oilcloth4 ,rugs for the hardwood floors may be made out of scraps of carpet4 ,window-shades may be made for each window out of linen1 and tacked to the top casing so that the bottom of the curtain reaches just above the centre of the opening4 ,each window should also have ,lace ,curtains made out of scraps of lace4 ,they should either be tacked above the windows or hung upon poles made out of ,no4 #ab wire1 cut in lengths to fit the windows4 ,screw small brass hooks into the top window-casings for the poles to hang upon4 ,handsome ,portieres for the doorways can be made with beads and with the small hollow straws sold for use in kindergartens4 ,for the ,bead ,portieres1 cut threads as long as the height of the door and string the beads upon them1 alternating the colors in such a way as to produce patterns4 ,then tie the strings together to a piece of wire the width of the doorway1 and fasten the wire in the opening4 ,the ,straw ,portieres are made similarly4 ,from magazine illustrations you can select ,suitable ,pictures for each room1 but if you are handy with brush and pencil you may prefer to make the pictures yourself4 ,these may be mounted upon cardboard and have their edges bound with passe-partout paper to give the effect of frames1 or frames may be cut out of cardboard and pasted to them4 ,hang the pictures to the picture moulding with thread4 ,a ,cosey-corner may be fitted up in the ball-room by fastening a strip of a cigar-box in one corner an inch and one-half above the floor for the seat1 and hanging draperies on each side of it4 ,pillows may be made for it out of scraps of silk stuffed with cotton4 ,a doll-house properly proportioned in every detail1 including the selection of its furniture1 is pleasing to look at1 and is to be desired much more than some of the specimens to be found in the stores4 ,these very often have parlor chairs larger than the mantel1 beds that either fill two-thirds of the bedroom space or are so small they are hidden from view by the chairs1 and other furniture accordingly1 all having been selected without any thought as to size or fitness4 ,care must be taken1 in buying the furniture1 to have the pieces suitable to the rooms4 ,it will no doubt require more time than to purchase the first sets you come across1 but when you have completed the selections1 the result will be a much better appearing doll-house4 ,by carefully searching the toy-shops you are almost certain of finding what you want for the various rooms1 as about everything imaginable in furniture has been manufactured4 ,porcelain bath-tubs1 wash-basins with real faucets and running water1 gilt furniture1 chandeliers1 and such articles are tempting to buy4 ,but it is rather expensive to fit up a house in this way1 for1 though each piece may not amount to very much1 they count up very quickly4 ,the suggestions for the making of cigar-box furniture in the following chapter1 and the cork furniture in ,chapter ,,xxviii1 should give you plenty of material for furniture and save you the expense of buying this part of the furnishings for your house4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,doll-,,furniture ,illustration ,the metal furniture which you can buy is very pretty when it is new1 but this new appearance does not last long after it has come into a youngster's possession1 for the pieces are very slender and delicate1 and thus easily broken4 ,wooden furniture is the most durable kind1 and plain and simple pieces will generally outlast the fancy ones4 ,the designs illustrated in this chapter make very substantial pieces1 as there are no spindle legs or fancy arms to break off4 ,they follow the lines of the mission furniture1 that simple style used in the early ,american mission schools1 and which is to-day being extensively made in handsome pieces for the furnishings of modern homes4 ,you will find the ,miniature ,mission ,furniture1 illustrated and described in this chapter1 simple to make and something which is easy to sell1 for there is nothing like it at present upon the market4 ,cigar-boxes furnish the nicest material for making this furniture1 and the various parts can be cut to the right shape and size with ,a ,gig-or ,scroll-saw4 ,procure small brads and glue with which to fasten the pieces together4 ,to prepare the ,cigar-boxes for use1 place them in a tub of boiling water and let them remain there until the paper labels readily pull off4 ,do not use a knife in removing the paper1 as it is liable to roughen the wood4 ,the paper will come off by allowing it to soak long enough4 ,when the boxes are clean1 set them in the sun to dry1 after binding the covers to the backs to prevent them from warping4 ,pull the boxes apart when they are thoroughly dry1 and throw out such pieces as have printing upon them1 for these would spoil the appearance of the furniture if used4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #aai-abf4--,patterns for ,furniture4 ,in order to simplify the matter of cutting the parts that make the furniture1 the curved pieces have been drawn out carefully on page #aaa1 so they can be laid off upon the strips of cigar-boxes without any trouble1 by the process of ,enlarging by ,squares4--,these drawings are shown one-quarter of their full size 7half their width and half their height74 ,to enlarge them procure a piece of cardboard nine by thirteen inches1 or a little larger than twice the size of the drawing each way1 and divide it into squares just twice the size of those on page #aaa4 ,that will make sixteen squares in the width of the cardboard and twenty-four in the length1 each half an inch square4 ,in order to get the squares spaced equally1 it is best to lay off the points first with a ruler along the top1 bottom1 and two sides of the sheet of cardboard1 and then connect the points with the ruler and a sharp lead-pencil4 ,then number the squares as in the illustration1 using the figures along the sides and letters across the top and bottom of the sheet4 ,with the sheet of cardboard thus prepared it is a simple matter to ,reproduce the ,drawings of ,figs4 #aai to #abf by locating the points of the curves and corners of the pieces1 as shown in the illustrations1 in corresponding positions in the squares on your cardboard sheet4 ,the curves may be drawn in by eye1 after locating them with reference to their surrounding squares1 but the surest way of enlarging them accurately is by laying off the points where the curve strikes each horizontal and vertical line in the illustration1 upon the enlarged drawing4 ,these points can then be connected with a curved line4 ,make all of the lines heavy so they can be distinguished from your guide lines1 and after carefully going over the drawing1 comparing it with that on page #aaa to see that no mistake has been made in locating the points in enlarging1 cut the various pieces apart4 ,these give you ,the ,patterns with which to mark out the pieces on the wood4 ,we will first note the construction of ,the ,chairs shown in ,figs4 #abg and #abh4 ,these are four and one-half inches high1 two inches wide1 and an inch and one-half deep4 ,cut the back for the chair in ,fig4 #abg four and three-eighths inches high and an inch and three-quarters wide1 the sides by the pattern in ,fig4 #aai1 and the seat an inch and one-quarter by an inch and three-quarters4 ,with the pieces cut out1 fasten them together with brads and glue1 placing the seat between the arms and back so that it is an inch and one-half above the base4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abg4 ,,fig4 #abh4 ,chairs4 ,cut the back for the other chair 7,fig4 #abh7 four and one-half inches high by two inches wide1 the seat an inch and a quarter by an inch and three-quarters1 and the sides an inch and three-eighths wide by two and one-half high4 ,to get the curve in the bottom edge of the side-pieces1 use the pattern in ,fig4 #aai4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abi4--;,a ,settee4 ,the ,settee 7,fig4 #abi7 should have its sides cut by the pattern of ,fig4 #abj4 ,make the back-piece three and three-quarters inches wide and three and one-quarter inches high1 and the seat three and three-quarters inches by an inch and one-half4 ,fasten the seat against the back an inch and one-half above the base4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acj4--;,a ,table4 ,tables for the living-room1 dining-room1 bedroom1 ball-room1 and nursery of a doll-house may be patterned after the designs of ,figs4 #acj and #aca4 ,these should be two and one-half inches high to be of proper proportion for the chairs4 ,the pieces necessary to make ,fig4 #acj are a top two inches square1 two sides an inch and one-half wide by two and one-half inches high1 and a shelf an inch and one-quarter square4 ,fasten the pieces together as in the illustration1 placing the shelf between the side-pieces an inch from the bottom4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aca4--;,another ,design4 ,the other design 7,fig4 #aca7 will do nicely for ,a ,dining-room ,table1 or table for the centre of the living-room4 ,the top of this should be five inches long and three inches wide4 ,cut the side-pieces by the pattern in ,fig4 #aba and1 after fastening them to the under side of the table-top four inches apart1 brace them with a strip three and three-quarters inches long by half an inch wide1 as shown in ,fig4 #aca4 ,a ,side-board similar to ,fig4 #acb should be made for the dining-room4 ,the pattern for the side pieces is shown in ,fig4 #abb4 ,after sawing these out1 cut a piece seven inches long by three inches wide for the back and fasten the side-pieces to the edges of it4 ,the location of the shelves can be obtained best by referring to ,fig4 #acb and the pattern in ,fig4 #abb4 ,cut the bottom shelf 7,a in ,fig4 #acb7 three inches long by an inch and one-quarter wide and fasten it to the side-pieces half an inch above the base 7line #bd on pattern1 ,fig4 #abb74 ,make shelf ,b three by one inches and place it at line #bb4 ,c should be three and three-quarters inches long by an inch and one-half wide1 with a small notch cut near each end with your knife1 to make it fit over the side-pieces 7see illustration74 ,cut shelf ,d three inches long by half an inch wide1 fastening it in place at line ,no4 #ag1 ,e three inches long by seven-sixteenths of an inch wide1 fastening it at line ,no4 #ae1 and ,f three inches long by three-eighths of an inch wide1 fastening it at line ,no4 #ac4 ,the top shelf 7,g7 is three and three-quarters inches long and half an inch wide and is fastened to the tops of the side-pieces as shown in the drawing4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acb4--;,a ,side-board4 ,the lower portion of the side-board is enclosed with two doors two inches high by an inch and one-half wide4 ,small pieces of cloth may be used for hinges1 but it is better to use pins1 running them through the shelf above and below 7,a and ,c1 ,fig4 #acb7 into the doors4 ,stick the pins near the edge of the doors and see that they are straight1 so the doors will open easily4 ,a small mirror attached to the back between shelves ,c and ,d will complete this piece of furniture4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acc4--;,a ,mirror4 ,a ,mirror in a frame should be made for the living-room of the doll-house4 ,a neat and suitable design for one of these will be seen in ,fig4 #acc4 ,for its construction cut two sides by means of the pattern in ,fig4 #abc1 a piece five inches long by three inches wide for the back1 and a strip three inches long by three-eighths of an inch wide for a shelf4 ,fasten the sides to the edges of the back-piece1 and the shelf between the sides about three-quarters of an inch above the base4 ,now procure a mirror such as you can buy in a toy-shop for five or ten cents 7or a piece of a broken mirror cut down to the right size will do very nicely71 and attach it to the centre of the back4 ,the ,grandfather's ,clock 7,fig4 #acd7 makes an effective piece of furniture for the hall or living-room1 and is easily made4 ,figure #abd shows the pattern for the front of this clock4 ,the back is made the same1 with the omission of the square opening cut in the front frame for the clock-face4 ,cut a block of wood two by two by three-quarters inches to fit between the frames at the top4 ,after nailing the pieces together1 procure a face from a toy watch1 and fasten it in the opening made for it in the front frame4 ,a button suspended by means of a piece of thread from a tack placed in the bottom of the block forms the pendulum4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acd4 ,a ,grandfather's ,clock4 ,it will be unnecessary to give any suggestions for ,kitchen ,furniture1 such as chairs and tables1 for these can also be made out of cigar-box wood along the same schemes illustrated in this chapter1 with perhaps a few modifications which will make them simpler4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ace4--;,a ,bed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acf4--;,another ,design4 ,now for the making of some pieces of bedroom furniture4 ,you will find in ,figs4 #ace and #acf two designs that are easily carried out1 one or both of which may be used for ,the ,beds of a doll-house4 ,to make ,fig4 #ace1 cut the head and foot by means of the pattern in ,fig4 #abe1 and cut the two sides by means of the pattern in ,fig4 #abf4 ,after preparing these pieces and fastening them together as shown in the illustration 7,fig4 #ace71 cut a few strips a quarter of an inch wide for slats and fasten them between the sides of the bed4 ,it is advisable to fasten these in place to prevent them from being lost4 ,the side-pieces for the other bed 7,fig4 #acf7 are cut out with the same pattern 7,fig4 #abf74 ,make the head-and foot-pieces three by four and one-half inches1 cutting a piece two by an inch and one-quarter out of the top of each as shown in the drawing 7,fig4 #acf71 and using the pattern of the other bed for cutting the curve in the bottom edge4 ,nail the pieces together in their proper places1 after which cut some slats and fasten them in the bottom4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acg4--;,a ,dresser4 ,the ,dresser 7,fig4 #acg7 is made somewhat similar to the side-board4 ,cut the sides by the same pattern 7,fig4 #abb7 and fasten them to the edges of the back-piece1 which should be six and one-half inches high by three inches wide4 ,cut shelf ,a three by one and one-quarter inches1 ,b and ,c three by one and one-eighth1 ,d three by one and three-sixteenths1 and ,e and ,f one-half by one and one-quarter inches4 ,fasten shelf ,a between the sides at line ,no4 #bd 7see ,fig4 #abb71 ,b at line ,no4 #bc1 ,c at line ,no4 #bb1 ,d at line ,no4 #ba1 and notch the ends of ,e and ,f to fit over the side-pieces at line ,no4 #bj4 ,drawers to fit the lower shelves of the dresser may be made out of small strips of cigar-boxes or pieces of cardboard1 glued together4 ,a small mirror fastened in the position shown in the drawing will complete the work upon this piece of furniture4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ach4--;,a ,wash-stand4 ,a ,wash-stand can be made for the bath-room and each of the bedrooms similar to ,fig4 #ach4 ,the sides for this should be five inches high by an inch and one-quarter wide1 and the shelves one by three inches4 ,fasten the lower shelf three-quarters of an inch above the base1 and the top shelf at a height of two and one-half inches4 ,when the stand has been put together1 fit a round stick1 about an eighth of an inch in diameter1 in holes made in the sides with a gimlet 7see illustration74 ,this forms the towel-rack4 ,hang a small drapery over the lower portion of the stand4 ,finishing4--,when the pieces of furniture have been completed1 they should be rubbed down with emery-paper to remove the rough edges1 and also any rough places that may have been caused by soaking the boxes in water4 ,then give the wood several coats of linseed oil4 ,this makes a beautiful finish for this kind of wood4 ,if desired1 the bedroom furniture may be painted with white enamel4 ,the little hearts may be painted upon the pieces as shown in the illustration1 with a small brush and red paint1 or may be cut out of red paper and glued to the wood4 ,,other ,,cigar-,,box ,,furniture ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aci4--;,a ,doll's ,folding-bed4 ,in ,figs4 #aci and #adb will be found some pieces of furniture that are simpler to make than that just described1 and although they may not be so pretty1 they present a very good appearance when neatly made4 ,the author constructed many pieces of this furniture when a boy1 and found them suitable as presents1 besides being something that was always easy to sell4 ,the cost of making a set amounts to but a few cents1 cigar-boxes being the principal material4 ,they are also very quickly made1 as the boxes require but little cutting4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ada4--;,foot4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adj4--;,folding-bed 7open74 ,for the construction of ,a ,folding-bed1 such as is shown in ,figs4 #aci and #adj1 select two cigar-boxes1 one of which will fit inside the other4 ,the smaller box should be a little shorter than the inside opening of the larger box4 ,after removing the paper from each1 place the smaller box inside the larger one1 as shown in ,fig4 #aci1 so that the bottom of the inner box is flush with the edge of the outer box4 ,then drive a brad through both boxes on each side1 about three-quarters of an inch from the end as shown at ,a 7,fig4 #aci74 ,these brads should run through the outer box into the bottom of the inner box1 and should be driven in carefully so as not to split the wood4 ,the inner box should now fold down as shown in ,fig4 #adj1 moving upon the brad pivots4 ,purchase a five or ten cent mirror and fasten it to the front of the bed1 after which cut two wooden feet similar to ,fig4 #ada and glue the pegs on the ends of these in gimlet holes made above the mirror4 ,finish the wood the same as described for the other cigar-box furniture4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adb4--;,dresser completed4 ,the ,dresser shown in ,fig4 #adb is made out of a box the same size as the larger one used for the folding-bed4 ,saw the sides of the box in half1 crosswise1 and remove the upper half and the end-piece4 ,then nail the end across the tops of the remaining halves of the sides4 ,when this has been done1 divide up the lower portion of the box into compartments as shown in the drawing 7,fig4 #adc74 ,this should have a small drapery hung over it4 ,the upper portion of the dresser should have a mirror attached to it1 and some lace draped over the top and sides will add greatly to its appearance4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adc4--;,a ,doll's ,dresser4 ,all you will have to do in making ,a ,wardrobe will be to fasten some small hooks inside of a cigar-box1 attach the cover with a strip of linen--the same way it was attached before you soaked it off--and hang a mirror on the front4 ,these pieces of furniture were designed for separate sets1 and would not do for doll-houses the size of those in the preceding chapters1 unless the boxes were cut down to smaller proportions4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,a ,,boy',s ,,printing-,,shop ,illustration3 ,boys working at the ,presses4 ,since the manufacture of printing-presses in small sizes1 printing has become so popular among boys that it is now hard to find a neighborhood in which there is not a press4 ,printing is one of the best methods of mastering spelling and punctuation1 and is thus a great help to a boy in his studies1 besides being a pleasant occupation at which he can earn money4 ,if you cannot afford a large press1 be satisfied with a small one for the time being at least4 ,get to work1 learn to print neatly and accurately1 and when your friends find your work is of good quality1 they will gladly patronize you4 ,your profits should soon net you enough with which to buy a larger press and increase your equipment4 ,after securing a press1 it will be necessary to find a place in which to keep and use it1 where there will be a good light to work by and where things are not likely to be disturbed4 ,if you have a workshop1 you may be able to make room in it for your outfit4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #add4--;,a ,boy's ,printing-shop4 ,when the author became the proud owner of a machine1 he found it convenient to keep it in his room with his type-cases and material beneath the press-stand4 ,but in the course of several years the printing-shop required more space than the room afforded1 and a new office had to be secured4 ,this was found in the woodshed1 where a corner was partitioned off1 a double sashed window placed in the wall1 and the interior fitted up with a case-rack1 imposing-table1 stock-stand1 and all the necessities for an enlargement of business4 ,figure #add shows the arrangement of our shop a few years later1 when it again became necessary to increase our floor space by adding a mezzanine story above1 extending to the roof of the shed4 ,this half-story was reached by means of a ladder1 as shown in the drawing4 ,the principal equipment of a boy's shop should consist of a number of cases in which to keep the fonts of type2 a rack in which these cases can be kept and at which the typesetting can be done2 a work-bench1 one end of which may be used for an imposing-table and the other for the press to stand upon2 and two cabinets1 one for stock and the other for ink1 tools1 and general supplies4 ,the other materials required are3 a composing-stick1 composing-rule1 pair of tweezers1 galley1 leads1 rules1 furniture1 mitre-box1 imposing-stone1 quoins1 shooting-stick1 mallet1 planer1 hand-roller1 and gauge-pins1 besides a can of ink1 an oil-can1 a bottle of machine-oil for washing rollers1 benzine for cleaning type1 and a good supply of rags4 ,illustration3 ,,an ,,amateur',s ,,outfit4 ,small presses are usually accompanied by a few fonts of type1 which are sufficient for printing small business-cards1 etc41 but are of so few letters as to make an ordinary job of printing impossible4 ,with an increase of capital1 ,type should be the first addition to your outfit4 ,in making selections bear in mind the amount of money you have to spend1 and buy only styles which will go together nicely and which can be used for the greatest variety of work4 ,if possible1 secure the advice of a printer in purchasing1 as by his experience he can tell what you will most require better than you4 ,you can probably obtain a specimen type-book from the type foundry in your city from which to make your selections4 ,type-cases divided into small compartments for the various letters and characters1 which can be bought for seventy-five cents or a dollar1 provide the only satisfactory means of keeping fonts4 ,it is advisable to spend the money for these neatly made boxes rather than attempt to make them1 for the work will amount to more than what you can buy them for4 ,figures #ade and #adf show the upper and lower news-cases with the systems of laying generally employed in printing establishments4 ,it will be seen that by this method the principal letters are grouped in the central portions of the case where they are easily reached1 while the less important letters are scattered around the sides4 ,the central boxes of the lower case are also made larger than the others1 e being allotted the largest box as it is used more than any other letter in the alphabet4 ,illustration3 ,,scheme ,,for ,,laying ,,cases4 ,,fig4 #ade4--,lower ,case4 ,,fig4 #adf4--,upper ,case4 ,as the lettering of the spaces and quads in ,fig4 #ade may be confusing to the beginner1 it is perhaps well to explain that these are based upon the m quads which present a square end1 the #bm and #cm quads being two and three m quads in width1 and an n quad one-half an m4 ,likewise spaces are known by the fraction they represent of an m quad1 viz4 #cm1 #dm1 #em1 and #hm 7more commonly known as hair-space74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adg4--,the ,yankee ,job-case4 ,the upper and lower cases provide for about every character included in a complete font of type4 ,for smaller fonts you will find the ,yankee job-case very convenient1 the letters being arranged the same in the lower portion1 and the capitals being placed in the upper boxes 7see ,fig4 #adg74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adh4--;,a ,type-case ,rack4 ,it will be unnecessary to have ,a ,rack for the ,type-cases until you have added several styles of type to your outfit4 ,then you will find a rack such as is shown in ,fig4 #adh one of the best methods of keeping the type away from the dust and at the same time in an accessible place4 ,this rack should be four feet in height1 the width of a type-case1 and twenty-eight inches deep1 which is large enough for twelve cases4 ,it is best made out of four-inch boards4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adi4 ,cut the uprights ,a and ,e three feet six inches long1 and ,b and ,f four feet long4 ,the top-pieces ,c and ,g should be cut similar to ,fig4 #adi4 ,first lay out these pieces on four-inch boards1 using the dimensions given on the drawing and being careful to get both pieces the same4 ,having properly marked the pieces1 they remain to be cut out with the rip and cross-cut saws4 ,cut the bottom-pieces ,d and ,h twenty-eight inches long1 and prepare twenty-two inch-strips of the same length for cleats4 ,one of the most particular points to be looked after in making a rack of this kind is the attaching of the cleats1 for unless they are perfectly horizontal and those on one side are on a level with those on the other side1 the cases will not slide in satisfactorily and will be continually causing trouble4 ,plenty of space should also be left between the cleats to prevent the cases from sticking by the cleats swelling or warping4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aej4 ,in order to get the cleats in the right position1 the heights should be laid off on the uprights as shown in ,fig4 #aej and lines squared across them4 ,you will then have the same heights on each upright4 ,having prepared the pieces above described1 we are ready to put them together4 ,lay uprights ,a and ,b upon the ground1 twenty inches apart1 and with the lower ends on a line with one another4 ,then fasten board ,d to them as shown in ,fig4 #aea1 the upper edge being even with the first divisions on the upright4 ,drive but one nail in each end of ,d until the other end of the frame is fastened together4 ,strip ,c should be placed as shown in ,fig4 #aea1 so that the upper edge of one end is even with the top of upright ,a1 and the upper edge of the other end three inches above the top of upright ,b4 ,this gives the proper pitch to the top of the rack4 ,then1 after measuring the distance between uprights ,a and ,b to see that it is no more or less than twenty inches1 nail ,c firmly to them1 after which drive several more nails into the ends of ,d4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aea4 ,when this has been done1 fasten the cleats in place1 so that the top of each is even with the line squared across the uprights4 ,this completes the frame4 ,the opposite frame is made similarly4 ,when both frames have been made1 they should be fastened together by means of the crosspieces shown in ,fig4 #adh4 ,measure the width of your cases1 which varies somewhat with different makes1 and set the frames about half an inch farther apart than this width4 ,then cut the boards ,i1 ,j1 ,k1 and ,l the correct length and nail them to the places shown upon the drawing4 ,strips ,m and ,n should be fitted between ,c and ,g to help support the top4 ,the top of the rack is made to hold two cases at a time1 the lower case on the front part and the upper case back of it4 ,cases should be kept out of the dust as much as possible1 as dirt accumulates in the boxes very quickly1 and is hard to clean out4 ,it is therefore a good plan to tack cloth or heavy wrapping-paper to the back1 sides1 and below the top of the rack1 and provide a curtain to hang over the front when the cases are not in use4 ,when the boxes do become dirty1 the dust should be removed by means of a pair of bellows4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aeb4--;,how to ,hold the ,composing-stick4 ,in composing1 or setting type1 ,a ,composing-stick is necessary4 ,this should be held in the left hand1 as shown in ,fig4 #aeb1 while the right hand picks up the type one by one and drops them into the stick1 where the left thumb shoves them into place4 ,it will be seen by looking at the illustration that the type are set upside down and read from left to right4 ,this may seem awkward at first1 but with practice you will soon become accustomed to reading the letters in this position4 ,a ,composing-rule1 similar to ,fig4 #aec1 should be cut out of a piece of brass rule4 ,in typesetting1 the rule is first placed in the stick1 and the type then placed against it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aec4--;,a ,composing-rule4 ,when a line has been set and there still remains a space too small for another word1 it is necessary to either place wider spaces between the words to fill out the line1 or reduce the space sufficiently to make it possible to add the word4 ,this operation1 which is known as ,justifying1 should be performed after each line has been set4 ,then place a lead against the type1 lift out the composing-rule from behind the first line1 and place it in front of the lead preparatory to setting a new line4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aed4--;,a ,home-made ,galley4 ,after composing a stick full of type1 it should be emptied into ,a ,galley4 ,figure #aed shows a galley made of half-inch stuff4 ,cut the pieces as shown1 and fasten them together so the bottom-piece is tilted sufficient to keep the lines from ,pieing--or falling out of line--without tying them together4 ,emptying a stick may prove difficult at first1 but if the lines have been properly justified and are gripped at the ends with the thumb and first finger of each hand1 there is but little danger of making pie4 ,the beginner will1 however1 doubtless pie his type a number of times1 until by experience he learns the proper handling of it4 ,proofs are struck while the type is in the galley1 by running an ink-roller over the matter1 then placing a damp sheet of paper on the type and running a dry hand-roller over the paper4 ,the print thus obtained is known as the first proof4 ,it should be fully corrected by means of proof-reader's marks1 which can be found in the appendix of any dictionary1 after which the corrections should be made in the type and a second proof struck off4 ,when the matter has been fully corrected1 it should be placed upon ,the ,imposing-stone--a piece of marble or other flat stone set upon the work table4 ,after properly leading the type1 ,the ,chase--an iron frame cast to hold the type for printing--should be placed over it4 ,the space between the type and chase should then be filled out with ,furniture4--,metal furniture consists of hollow metal blocks of various sizes1 while wooden furniture comes in strips of different widths1 which may be cut up into the lengths required4 ,use a mitre-box similar to the one described in ,chapter ,i in cutting the wooden furniture4 ,locking-up a ,form4--,the type is locked-up by means of iron wedges known as quoins4 ,there are two forms of these1 those driven together by means of a shooting-stick and mallet1 as shown in ,fig4 #aee1 and those locked by means of an iron key1 such as is shown in ,fig4 #aef4 ,the latter kind is probably the most commonly used to-day4 ,before locking the form1 the type should be levelled with a planer1 which is nothing more than a block of hardwood with a smooth1 even surface4 ,the planer should be set upon the type and given a few light raps on the top with the hammer1 until the face of the type is even4 ,then lock the form securely1 being careful to have as equal pressure as possible on all sides1 to prevent the type from springing4 ,the form is then ready for the press4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aee4--,locking-up a ,form4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aef4--,key and ,quoins4 ,distribution consists in replacing the types in their respective boxes after the form has been printed1 and is no longer desired4 ,the matter should first be thoroughly washed1 then unlocked4 ,the distributer lifts out several lines of the type1 holding them in his left hand1 with the nicks uppermost and the letters facing him4 ,one or more words are picked from the top line with the right hand1 and each letter is dropped into its box1 after which several more words are picked up and similarly distributed4 ,a few pointers in regard to presswork may be helpful to the beginner4 ,the ,tympan1 or metal bed upon which the paper to be printed is placed1 should be padded well with paper to make a firm impression1 the number of sheets required depending upon the character of the form4 ,these sheets are held in place by means of the iron clamps which slip over the ends of the tympan 7see ,fig4 #afj74 ,the first print struck off probably will be imperfect1 that is1 some portions will be lighter than others1 due to uneven impression4 ,this is overcome by what is known as ,overlaying the form4 ,make several impressions1 including one on the top tympan-sheet4 ,then cut out the light portions of a print and paste them directly over the corresponding printing on the tympan-sheet 7see ,fig4 #afj74 ,thin tissue-paper will be found good for building up portions requiring but little increase in pressure4 ,underlaying consists in pasting strips of paper to the back of type or cuts which print unevenly1 to make the low portions higher4 ,when the form prints satisfactorily1 you must prepare the marginal lines before running off the job4 ,the margins can easily be marked off upon the tympan-sheet1 as you have the impression upon it for a guide 7see ,fig4 #afj74 ,when this has been done1 ,gauge-pins of some sort should be stuck into the tympan-sheet along the marginal lines as guides for placing the paper in the press for printing4 ,two forms of these pins1 which can be bought for twenty-five or thirty cents a pair1 are shown in ,fig4 #aeg4 ,these pins must be so placed that there will be no danger of them mashing the type4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aeg4--,two ,forms of ,gauge-pins4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #aeh-afa4--;,home-made ,gauges4 ,there are several forms of home-made gauges which may be used1 three of which are shown in ,figs4 #aeh1 #aei1 and #afa4 ,the first 7,fig4 #aeh7 consists of an ordinary pin bent into the shape shown4 ,the second 7,fig4 #aei7 is made out of a strip of cardboard scored and bent as in the drawing4 ,it must be pasted in place and held in position until dry1 to prevent it from slipping 7see ,fig4 #afj74 ,the third form of home-made gauge-pin consists of a quad 7,fig4 #afa71 or thin piece of furniture1 pasted to the tympan-sheet4 ,in ,inking the ,press be careful to spread the ink evenly over the disk1 and apply just enough to make a clear1 clean copy4 ,too much ink will clog the type and produce a smeared print4 ,ink should not be left upon the form after the latter has been removed from the press1 but should be washed off immediately with benzine4 ,the disk and rollers should also be washed after use1 as the ink will not be good when hard and will become dirty4 ,the ,life of a ,roller is greatly increased by using machine-oil rather than benzine for washing it4 ,benzine is too drying for the composition of a roller 7which is glue and molasses7 and takes the elasticity out of it1 causing it to crack4 ,keep the rollers in a cool place in the summer and not in too cold a place in the winter1 for extremes in temperature also affect the composition4 ,neatness is absolutely necessary in printing1 and to secure this you must keep your hands clean so as not to finger-mark your prints4 ,care must be taken in throwing off printed sheets to see that they do not fall upon freshly printed ones if these are wet enough to mark them4 ,materials should be put away in their proper places after use4 ,do not throw type1 leads1 and furniture carelessly about1 as they are likely to be lost or broken by doing so4 ,cigar-boxes make handy receptacles for pied type1 until you have an opportunity to sort out and distribute it4 ,these are useful also for keeping leads1 furniture1 and rules in1 and a cabinet similar to that described in ,chapter ,i 7,fig4 #ae71 or the curio-cabinet described in ,chapter ,,iv 7,fig4 #ei71 should be made to hold them4 ,the young printer should see to it that ,proofs and ,scraps of ,paper are thrown into a waste basket and not scattered about1 as they accumulate rapidly1 and not only make a shop look very untidy1 but increase the danger of fire4 ,oily ,rags should be kept in a covered tin can1 for they are liable to ignite spontaneously when exposed to the air2 and of course oils1 gasoline1 and benzine should be handled away from fire and corked up after use4 ,,chapter ,x ,,amateur ,,journalism ,illustration3 ,boy ,journalists4 ,amateur journalism is by no means a new pastime1 but probably at no time in its long history has it been thought as much of as at present4 ,it would be a difficult matter to even roughly estimate the number of papers which have been issued in the amateur world4 ,mr4 ,edwin ,hadley ,smith of ,new ,york ,city has the largest collection now in existence4 ,this at present consists of #bb1fjj amateur papers1 #ejj amateur books1 #hjj photographs of amateur journalists1 #hjj professional clippings1 and #b1ejj miscellaneous printed relics dating as far back as #ahde4 ,the collection1 which is the result of many years' work1 is sorted and catalogued1 and will soon be placed in one of our large libraries1 where the public may inspect the work that has been turned out by amateurs for the past half century4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,group ,,of ,,amateur ,,papers4 ,it is said ,benjamin ,franklin published an amateur paper in #agbc1 when a lad of seventeen years2 and in tracing the history of amateur journalism down to the present time1 a person would be surprised to find what a large number of the most successful statesmen1 writers1 and scientific men this country has had were amateur journalists in their younger days4 ,there are at present in the neighborhood of two hundred amateur papers published in the ,united ,states4 ,a few of these papers1 representative of amateurs from all parts of the country1 have been grouped together and reproduced opposite page #adb1 and several others are shown in ,figs4 #afb1 #afc1 #afd1 #afe1 and #aff4 ,it is to be regretted that lack of space forbids a larger display of these papers1 many of which are quite unique and reflect credit upon their publishers4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afb4--;,a ,school ,paper4 #cb pages4 ,size #b-a_/d #b-c_/d4 ,during the centennial at ,philadelphia in #ahgf1 the ,national ,amateur ,press ,association was formed for the purpose of spreading amateur journalism and bringing amateurs into closer relations with one another4 ,the ,united ,amateur ,press ,association was formed in #ahig1 and1 while it is a younger organization than the ,national ,amateur ,press ,association1 has a large membership of amateurs4 ,every boy aspirant to the field of journalism should join one of these associations as soon as he has the proper credential--a copy of his own paper1 or an original article of his published in an amateur paper4 ,by becoming a member and getting acquainted with other amateurs through exchange of papers1 a boy is greatly benefited4 ,he has a chance to see what other amateurs are doing1 finds out through the other papers what the members think of his work1 and learns through these friendly criticisms wherein he can improve his publication4 ,he also has a chance to enter his writings for the prizes awarded annually by the associations for the best poems1 sketches1 essays1 histories1 and editorials4 ,a great number of the members of these two associations are interested in smaller organizations1 among which are the ,interstate ,association--consisting of the members of the ,east--and the ,western4 ,again1 a large number of amateurs have formed state organizations1 and in large cities1 where there are enough members to do so1 local clubs have been formed4 ,the city clubs hold frequent meetings1 at which it is customary for the members to take part in literary programmes4 ,the state and other organizations generally hold semi-annual meetings1 and the ,national ,amateur ,press ,association and the ,united ,amateur ,press ,association meet annually in some city chosen the preceding year1 and at this convention elect their officers1 make awards of prizes for the year1 and have a general good time4 ,the boy who is owner of a printing-press is almost certain to get the publishing fever and commence the publishing of a small paper4 ,if his press is too small for such an undertaking1 it will of course be necessary for him to do such job printing as he can get to do until he has earned sufficient money to buy a larger press and such materials as he will need in publishing a paper4 ,but it is not always the boy who has had a taste of printing who becomes interested in amateur journalism4 ,there are few boys nowadays who pass through their school life without devoting some of their time to this interesting and instructive work4 ,a paper started by one boy is generally followed by several more1 and in this way the number of amateur papers sent out in a town very rapidly increases4 ,nothing daunts the ambitious boy4 ,if he has not a press1 and there are no prospects of him earning one for some time1 he will not allow this to interfere with his plans4 ,it only means he must devise some other way of printing4 ,many boys have already proven that a press is not an absolute necessity1 by issuing papers printed with rubber type1 written by pen and on typewriters1 and printed by the mimeograph and such duplicating machines4 ,these are all more or less tiresome operations1 but ways in which the boy determined to publish a paper may start4 ,a few examples of papers printed by these methods are shown in ,figs4 #afb1 #afc1 and #afd4 ,it might be interesting to know a little something about how these papers were run4 ,the one shown in ,fig4 #afb was lettered by hand1 and while only one copy of an issue was made1 and that passed about in the school at which the publishers attended1 there was a good deal of work required to get it up4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afc4--;,another ,school ,paper4 ,the paper shown in ,fig4 #afc is also a school paper1 published at the ,lake ,high ,school1 ,chicago4 ,the copy for this was first written off on a wax sheet by means of a typewriter1 and this sheet placed on the cylinder of a machine known as a neostyle1 the cylinder then being revolved and the papers printed from the wax sheet4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afd4--,printed with ,rubber ,type4 ,the paper shown in ,fig4 #afd was the writer's first attempt in the publishing line1 and was indeed a sorry specimen of typography4 ,a box of rubber type1 a four line holder1 and ink-pad constituted the printing outfit4 ,the paper was a twelve-paged two-column affair1 requiring six impressions of four lines each to the column4 ,the column ruling was done with a pen1 and1 after printing the copies1 each had to be gone over and retouched with pen and ink4 ,it was a long and tedious job1 and so wearing upon the type that they were practically useless by the time the second issue had been printed4 ,but by this time the publishers became owners of a press with which they were able to turn out more satisfactory work4 ,the first thing for a boy to consider is ,the ,character of his paper--whether it shall contain news of the athletic field1 the school1 or the neighborhood1 entirely1 or be devoted to amateur journalism entirely1 or be made up of a little of each4 ,the schoolroom presents so much of interest to those in and out of it1 that papers managed and edited by several pupils1 with the articles written by the different classes1 are generally successful4 ,athletic news is always interesting to boys1 and to have at least a portion of your paper given up to this subject might be a good plan4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afe4 ,the paper shown in ,fig4 #afe is an example of a small paper1 the size of the sheet being three by four and one-half inches4 ,it was published a few years ago by six boys living in ,lexington1 ,kentucky4 ,the staff1 the oldest of whom was but ten years of age1 consisted of the editor-in-chief1 who attended to the general management1 editing1 and printing of the paper1 and five other boys1 known as the associate editors1 who gathered the news and did the hustling4 ,this paper contained mostly neighborhood news1 and had a large local circulation4 ,the paper shown in ,fig4 #aff consists of twelve pages printed upon a press with a form capacity four by six inches1 and is given up entirely to the publication of original stories and poems4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aff4 ,some boys who do not own presses have the printing done by professionals1 but simply to edit a paper gives them but half the pleasure and experience derived from executing all the work themselves1--editing1 printing1 binding1 mailing1 etc4 ,in ,naming a paper be sure to select a suitable title for it1 a name with a meaning1 such as will denote the character of the publication1 being desirable4 ,the ,frequency of ,publication will depend largely upon the size of sheet1 number of pages1 the amount of time that can be devoted to the work1 and the facilities for printing4 ,whether weekly1 monthly1 semi-monthly--twice a month1 bi-monthly--once in two months1 or quarterly1 try to place each issue in the hands of subscribers as nearly on time as possible4 ,the ,size of ,page will depend largely upon your press4 ,however1 a small sheet is most desirable for an amateur paper4 ,the first page should be headed with the name of the paper set up in rather large type4 ,you will find ,a ,stereotyped ,heading cheaper to buy than a font of large type1 and easier to handle on account of its being in a solid block4 ,below the heading should appear the volume number1 date1 and number of issue1 on one line1 followed by the title of the article and body of type4 ,the ,choice of ,type may be made by examining the sheets shown opposite page #adb and in ,figs4 #afe and #aff1 many of which are good specimens of typography4 ,these should also help you to formulate your ideas as to the style of your paper4 ,the second page should be headed with the page number and name of paper--or title of story--in small caps1 this line to be separated from the body of type by means of a pica brass rule4 ,great care should be used in publishing a paper to have the proof thoroughly corrected before the form is printed1 for typographical errors spoil the appearance of the paper and are always disgusting to the reader4 ,also see to it that the marginal lines correspond on each sheet1 and try to get uniform impressions throughout the paper4 ,a ,cover is desirable for a small paper1 as it adds to its appearance and size4 ,if you have one1 set it up in somewhat the same style as those shown opposite page #adb4 ,the cover sheets should be cut a little larger than the inside sheets1 so they will cover the latter when they are bound together4 ,with the printing of an issue completed1 the sheets are ready for ,binding4--,they may be fastened together by means of wire staples1 paste1 or thread4 ,figure #afg shows a scheme of stitching much employed in printing-offices and which is simple for an amateur to do4 ,the sheets are first folded inside one another1 as in the drawing4 ,then1 starting at ,a with a needle and thread1 run the needle through the sheets2 carry the thread underneath the sheets from ,a to ,b1 from ,b to ,c above1 from ,c to ,a beneath1 and up through the sheets at ,a4 ,then tie the two ends of ,d and ,e in a hard knot1 with the portion of the thread marked ,f between them4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afg4 ,the cover may be bound with the rest of the sheets1 or pasted to them after the sheets have been stitched4 ,few amateurs bother with ,advertisements1 probably because it is hard to find merchants who have confidence in results from magazines with small circulations2 but with cheap rates you should be able to secure enough ads4 to more than defray the expenses of publishing a paper4 ,before soliciting these1 cut a sheet of paper the size of a page and divide it into small spaces with a pencil and ruler1 making what is known as ,the ,advertisers' ,dummy4--,show this to your prospective advertisers and let them pick out the space they wish1 charging so much per inch1 the rate varying according to the position the ad4 will occupy4 ,with at least four regular issues a year1 and not less than fifty per cent of the circulation paid subscriptions1 you will be able to enter your paper in the post-office of your city as ,second-class ,matter1 which makes it possible for you to mail your papers to out-of-town subscribers at the rate of one cent per pound4 ,to secure these privileges write to the third assistant postmaster-general of your city for an entry blank1 together with full particulars concerning second-class matter4 ,return the application with a copy of your paper2 and when it has been passed upon1 the postmaster will issue you a certificate entitling you to these rates and authorizing you to print upon your paper ,entered at the post-office at 7name of town7 as second-class matter4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,a ,,boy',s ,,dark-,,room ,illustration3 ,a ,boy ,photographing his ,dog4 ,there is no reason why an industrious boy cannot do a profitable business with a camera1 when he has learned to operate it successfully1 does careful and neat work1 and charges a reasonable price for his pictures4 ,the many monthly photographic competitions in the magazines should be a great help in showing where his faults lie1 and when he has overcome these he should be able to make considerable money from the cash prizes offered4 ,an amateur should master as much of the work as possible4 ,one of the most interesting parts is missed if you pay a professional to develop your plates1 and you never know where your faults have been made in taking the pictures1 by not seeing the manner in which the image appears on the negative during the development4 ,even though you spoil one or two plates in your first attempts at developing1 your results on the whole will probably be as good as those obtained by a professional1 who is very often careless with amateurs' work4 ,no discussion of photography has been included in this book1 as a complete treatise would be too lengthy1 and a condensed description impractical4 ,there are a number of excellent publications which describe the subject in detail1 making it so clear that a boy cannot help but understand the principles with a little study4 ,few of these books1 however1 dwell upon the equipment of the dark-room1 and none give a fellow any ideas for the making of his apparatus1 generally an important item to a boy4 ,the ,necessary ,equipment for a dark-room is not large1 about all you require besides your chemicals being a ruby lantern1 printing frame1 three trays1--one for developing1 another for fixing1 and a third for toning1--a two-inch camel's-hair brush for dusting plates1 a drying-rack1 glass graduate1 funnel1 set of scales1 bottles for solutions1 and a cabinet in which to keep your apparatus and supplies4 ,a ,dark-room is not a necessity1 although it is a great convenience1 especially if you are doing much work4 ,with the shades pulled down1 you will find that your bedroom serves the purpose very well in the evening1 and many boys do their work in this way4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afh4 ,a ,,handy ,,dark-,,room4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #agb4 ,a ,,washing ,,box ,,and ,,drying ,,rack4 ,figure #afh illustrates how developing is carried on in a bedroom of an old-style house1 where the wash-stands are set in recesses in the wall4 ,here a shelf made up of several boards fastened together with battens is set upon the marble slabs around the basin4 ,in this shelf an opening four by six inches is made as shown in ,fig4 #agj1 the edges of the opening being rabbeted to receive a five-by-seven camera plate4 ,this arrangement is very complete1 for the developing is performed on the shelf1 the fixing on the stand below1 and the washing in the basin1 while light from the lantern is projected through the glass in the shelf1 making it light underneath4 ,this scheme can be used for any wash-stand1 by nailing the shelf to two pieces of board twelve inches long by the width of the shelf1 these pieces being set firmly upon the wash-stand4 ,some boys use ,the ,bath-room for their dark-room1 darkening the window and shutting out any rays of light that may come through the key-hole and cracks about the door4 ,this works splendidly1 there being running water at hand and the tub in which to wash the negatives4 ,the work-table is made out of several boards battened together1 and should be set across the edges of the tub4 ,figure #afi shows ,another ,scheme--a dark-room fitted up in a closet1 or by partitioning off a corner of the attic or cellar4 ,in the latter case the inside of the partition should be covered with black paper or cloth to prevent light from entering cracks in the boards4 ,the room should be provided with ,a ,work-table about three feet high4 ,this should be built against the wall and strongly braced1 as shown in the sketch 7,fig4 #afi74 ,fasten a shelf to the wall about nine inches below the table1 and under this make a rack with three divisions in it for trays4 ,the rack should be fastened to the braces1 as shown in the drawing4 ,running ,water is a great convenience in a dark-room1 as it saves the bother of having to carry water in pails1 or transferring your plates to a tub or wash-basin for the final bath after development4 ,if it is impossible to locate your dark-room where it will be supplied with running water1 the best scheme is ,a ,water-tank with hose attachment4 ,this is shown in ,fig4 #afi4 ,to carry it out1 procure from your grocer a half-barrel1 such as is used for the shipment of salt mackerel1 etc41 and1 after thoroughly cleaning it1 bore a hole in the side about two inches from the bottom4 ,buy at a drug-store several feet of rubber tubing1 a rubber stopper with a hole cut in the centre1 two pinch-stops1 a six-inch piece of glass tubing bent at right angles1 and a small glass funnel4 ,slip one end of the bent piece of glass tubing into the rubber stopper1 and stick the latter in the hole made in the barrel4 ,then slip a short piece of the rubber tubing over the glass tubing1 and place one of the pinch-stops on it to be used in regulating the supply of water from the tank 7see ,fig4 #aga74 ,set the barrel on one end of the table1 and run the rubber tubing through a hole cut for it in the work-table4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #agj4 ,,fig4 #aga4 ,,fig4 #afi4--;,a ,well-equipped ,dark-room4 ,it is advisable to filter the water used from the barrel1 that you may be sure it is free from dirt1 so an arrangement similar to that shown in ,fig4 #aga should be fastened below the work-table4 ,it consists of a glass funnel set in a hole bored in a block of wood 7see ,a in ,fig4 #aga71 which is suspended from the bottom of the work-table by means of a stick 7,b71 one end of which is nailed to block ,a and the other end to the work-table4 ,keep a piece of filter-paper in the funnel4 ,the rubber tubing should be cut just long enough to reach the funnel1 and the bottom of this filter should come within an inch or two of the sink1 which will be set in the shelf below4 ,you will find an iron drip-pan about as cheap ,a ,sink as can be had1 considering that one twelve by seventeen inches will cost you just fifty cents--twenty-five cents for the pan and an equal amount to pay a tinsmith for soldering a three-eighths inch pipe in a hole cut in the bottom for a drain4 ,either fasten the sink on the shelf1 boring a hole for the pipe to fit in1 or set it in an opening cut in the shelf1 as shown in the drawing1 supporting it by the rim around its top4 ,slip a piece of rubber tubing over the lower end of the drain pipe and to this attach the second pinch-stop as a regulator for emptying the sink 7see ,fig4 #afi74 ,as the water supply would be insufficient to wash the plates thoroughly after taking them from the hypo bath1 it should be used for rinsing only1 and ,a ,washing-box1 after the scheme of ,fig4 #agb1 made to hold the negatives while washing them4 ,this box will stand on the shelf beside the sink until you are through developing4 ,the rack is made up of strips of wood fastened together with wire brads4 ,figure #agc clearly shows its construction4 ,strips ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 and ,d should be placed three and three-quarters inches apart for four-by-five plates1 and kerfs should be cut in their edges as shown4 ,a and ,d are mounted upon short stilts1 and ,b and ,c are nailed to the uprights supporting the handle4 ,the plates rest upon strips nailed across the bottom pieces4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #agc4--;,a ,washing-rack4 ,this tray was made to hold two dozen plates1 but may be made smaller if you wish4 ,the box should be just large enough for the tray to fit in4 ,fill all the cracks and joints with white-lead and give the box several coats of paint to make it perfectly water tight4 ,then make a hole in the side near the bottom to let the water out1 and procure a cork to fit it 7,fig4 #agd74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #agd4--,the ,washing-box4 ,before developing1 cork up the washing-box1 fill it with water1 and set it in one end of the sink where the plates can be set in it after being taken from the fixing bath4 ,when you are through developing1 place the box and plates in the wash-basin or the bath-tub2 remove the cork from the box and allow the water to run in at the top and out through the hole near the bottom4 ,when the negatives have been thoroughly washed1 the tray can be removed from the washing-box and used as ,a ,drying-rack4 ,another scheme for a drying-rack easily made is shown in ,fig4 #age4 ,for the construction1 two pieces of wood twelve inches long by four inches wide will be needed 7,a and ,b in ,fig4 #age71 also two blocks 7,c and ,d7 four inches square4 ,mitre one edge of ,a and ,b1 and cut a right-angled bird's-mouth in ,c and ,d to receive ,a and ,b4 ,with the pieces prepared1 fasten them together as in the illustration4 ,then procure some corrugated straw-board1 such as is used for packing glass-ware1 etc41 cut two pieces four by twelve inches1 and tack them to ,a and ,b in such a way that the corrugations on one strip coincide with those on the other4 ,for a simple rack this cannot be surpassed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #age4--;,a ,negative-rack4 ,for chemicals1 supplies1 and apparatus1 make ,a ,cabinet similar to the one described for tools in ,chapter ,i1 or the curio-cabinet in ,chapter ,v4 ,this makes it possible to keep everything in order and in places where they can easily be reached4 ,such a cabinet is shown on the wall in ,fig4 #afi4 ,the best scheme for a dark-room ,ruby-light is shown in ,fig4 #afi4 ,this is practicable1 however1 only when you build the dark-room itself and can cut a window in the partition4 ,it makes it possible to have your source of light outside of the room1 and does away with the heat caused by having a lamp within1 where you are working4 ,first1 cut a ten-by-twelve-inch window opening in the partition on a level with the top of the work-table4 ,then make a frame a little larger than this opening and either set a piece of ruby or orange glass in it1 or paste a sheet of ruby or orange paper over it4 ,build a track above and below the opening for the frame to slide in1 doing the work neatly1 so there will be no possibility of light leaking through4 ,the light1 which may be a candle or lamp1 should stand upon a shelf supported upon a bracket outside of the window4 ,it is convenient to have the window slide1 as it enables you to open it and have white light to work by when a ruby light is not necessary4 ,this window furnishes light for developing1 which will be done upon the table1 but none for the shelf below1 where the sink is located and where the fixing tray should be kept 7that there will be no danger of getting hypo into the developer74 ,in order to have light for this shelf1 you had better follow the scheme shown in ,fig4 #agj4 ,cut an opening four by six inches in the work-table directly in front of the window1 and make a half-inch rabbet around its upper edge to receive a five-by-seven camera plate 7see ,fig4 #agj74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #agf4--;,a ,home-made ,dark-room ,lantern4 ,if it is not possible to have outside light for the dark room1 ,a ,home-made ,lantern1 such as is illustrated in ,fig4 #agf1 will be found very satisfactory4 ,it is made out of a wooden box about ten by ten by twelve inches4 ,cut two openings six inches square in two sides of the box and cover one with one sheet and the other with two sheets of orange or red paper1 spreading paste over the entire surface of the paper to make it stretch tightly over the openings as it dries4 ,the orange and red wrappers of some makes of printing papers and developing powders can be used for the covering of these openings4 ,for a chimney1 procure a long slender baking-powder can1 remove the cover and bottom1 and insert it in a hole cut for it in the top of the box4 ,then an arrangement must be made1 as shown in ,fig4 #agf1 to prevent light from emitting from the top of the can4 ,this consists of a tomato-can placed over the baking-powder can1 bottom side up1 with its edge fastened in kerfs cut in the ends of four wooden stilts 7see illustration74 ,drive the stilts firmly into holes bored for them in the top of the box4 ,the edge of the tomato-can should now be about an inch and one-half above the box1 and its bottom an inch or more above the baking-powder can4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #agg4 ,below the chimney attach a wooden stilt to the bottom of the lantern1 and tack a can cover to the top of it1 as shown in the drawing4 ,this forms a cup holder for the candle1 which not only catches the drippings1 but also makes the lantern fire-proof should the candle burn down to the end before you notice it4 ,bore a number of holes in the bottom of the box1 and nail two strips to the under side1 as shown4 ,the lamp is now completed with the exception of the door1 which should be made in three pieces1 with the edges cut and bevelled as shown in ,figs4 #agf and #agg4 ,nail strips ,a and ,c to the back of the box1 and slip ,b between them4 ,a screw-eye near the bottom of ,b will serve as a lift in opening the lantern4 ,as the edges of the strips are cut on a slant and bevelled1 a joint which cannot possibly leak light is obtained when ,b is slipped into place4 ,all cracks in the box should be carefully filled with white lead4 ,in offering this lamp to his boy readers1 the writer knows they will find it most satisfactory and a solution to the problem of making a perfect dark-lantern4 ,the air admitted through the holes in the bottom of the box carries the heat and smoke straight into the chimney1 and out through the space between the tin cans1 making it impossible for the flame to ignite the wood4 ,if you use ,a ,plate-lifter you will find an old tooth-brush handle tapered at the end by means of a file one of the best that can be had4 ,it is well to have some scheme for ,classifying and ,preserving ,negatives4--,to keep them in their original boxes is not a good idea1 as there is always danger of scratching them and no satisfactory way of keeping track of their description1 date of exposure1 etc4 ,manila ,envelopes1 with a printed form to be filled out1 on the outside1 are invaluable holders1 as they not only make it possible to file away negatives in alphabetical order1 but preserve them from dust1 scratches1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #agh4--;,a ,negative-case4 ,the four-by-five size can be bought for about twenty-five cents a hundred from a dealer in photograph supplies2 but you can get them much cheaper by going to a paper house and asking for their four-by-five coin-cut manila envelope1 which sells in half-thousand lots at about one dollar per thousand4 ,if the quantity is more than you will need1 you can probably dispose of a portion of them to your boy friends4 ,with a printing-press or rubber type1 the following form should be printed upon the outside1 with a rule or space to the right in which to place the descriptions3-- ,,no4 ,,description ,,date ,,remarks ,a ,wooden ,case to hold the envelopes is desirable1 and such a one may be made similar to ,fig4 #agh4 ,for four-by-five negatives the inside of the box should measure twelve inches long1 five and one-quarter inches wide1 and three inches deep4 ,it will hold about six dozen negatives4 ,very light wood1 about three-eighths of an inch thick1 should be used for the construction of this case4 ,cut two pieces twelve and three-quarters by three and three-eighths inches for the sides1 two pieces six by three and three-eighths for the ends1 and one piece twelve by five and one-quarter for the bottom4 ,in cutting the side-and end-pieces1 mitre the edges of each so they will make neat corners4 ,the mitre-box should be used for this purpose4 ,nail the pieces together with small finishing nails1 after which fasten the bottom-piece between them1 driving the nails through the side-pieces into it4 ,the cover is made of a board twelve and three-quarters inches long by six inches wide1 with a rim made of four inch-and-one-quarter strips nailed around its edge1 as shown in the illustration4 ,two of the strips should be twelve and three-quarters inches long1 and the other two six inches long4 ,their ends should be mitred and fitted together as the sides of the box were done1 and the top should be nailed to their top edges4 ,this cover fits over the plates1 which project an inch above the sides4 ,hinge it to the back of the box1 and attach a hook to the front4 ,if you do not keep your plates in envelopes1 the sides of the box should be lined with corrugated straw-board to separate them4 ,this may be tacked or glued to the wood4 ,by rubbing down the outside with emery-paper1 oiling1 shellacking1 or varnishing the wood1 a very pretty case will be obtained4 ,you will find it a simple matter to pick out a negative by having them filed in the order of their exposure1 and catalogued alphabetically in a note-book4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,a ,,winter ,,enterprise ,illustration3 ,boys with ,snow ,shovel and ,broom4 ,boys who keep their eyes open for opportunities to make money are not long in finding that the coming of snow means money in their pockets if they are willing to do a little hustling4 ,a number of years ago a few boys undertook the job of keeping the walks of their neighborhood free from snow1 and constructed ,a ,snow ,plough with which to do their work4 ,the plough proved so satisfactory that others were made1 and before long every boy in the neighborhood had enlisted in the company4 ,by several boys joining forces in this way1 and making contracts with property owners to keep their walks and steps free from snow1 a good deal of ground can be covered in a short space of time1 and a neat sum of money realized during the season4 ,the work can be done before and after school1 and be so divided that while several are ploughing the walks the others are cleaning the steps4 ,a plough such as is illustrated in ,fig4 #agi is made in two sections1 four feet long by two feet wide4 ,after battening the boards together at ,a and ,b1 as shown in the drawing1 fasten the sections in place1 with two ends together and the other two ends two feet apart4 ,nail them firmly together at the angle and brace them at the open end with strips1 as shown at ,c and ,d in the illustration4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #agi4--;,a ,snow ,plough4 ,the bottom edge of the plough should be covered with tin1 to prevent it from wearing or becoming broken4 ,bore a hole an inch in diameter in each section at ,e1 and fasten a broom-handle in them from which to attach the rope tugs4 ,this being done the plough is ready for use4 ,a ,scraper is about the best appliance that can be had for cleaning snow from the steps1 especially when the snow has turned to slush4 ,for the making of one of these1 prepare a seven-eighths inch board sixteen inches long by four inches wide4 ,bevel the lower edge and nail a two inch strip below the top1 as at ,a in ,fig4 #ahj4 ,bore a hole through both thicknesses of wood at ,b and fit a broom-handle in it1 bracing the handle with a piece of wire run from a small hole bored in the handle at ,c to the ends of the scraper4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahj4--;,a ,scraper4 ,figure #aha shows a scheme for ,a ,snow ,shovel that is easy to make1 and one which will stand a good deal of wear4 ,for this1 secure two barrel staves1 cut them in two1 and plane up the curved edges until they are straight4 ,then taking three of these pieces1 lay them side by side and nail a two-by-two inch strip across the top edges1 as shown at ,a1 to bind them together4 ,the bevelled ends of the staves should be placed at the lower end of the shovel and bound in place by a strip of galvanized iron bent over the edges and tacked to the staves 7see ,b in drawing74 ,another iron strip should be nailed across the staves at ,c1 to fasten them more securely together4 ,clinch the nails upon the under side of the shovel and drive their ends well into the wood4 ,procure a broom-stick for the handle and place it in a bevelled slot cut at ,d 7,fig4 #ahb71 fastening down the end with iron pipe-straps1 as shown in ,fig4 #aha4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahb4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aha4--;,an ,easily ,made ,snow ,shovel4 ,with the addition of brooms to the plough1 scrapers1 and shovels1 your outfit will be complete and ready for business4 ,illustration3 ,two ,boys with ,fishing ,pole4 ,part ,,ii ,outdoor ,pastimes ,illustration3 ,,in ,,camp ,,for ,,the ,,summer4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,a ,,back-,,yard ,,club-,,house ,illustration3 ,boys in ,discussion1 ,boys ,work on the ,club-house4 ,for many years there stood in a city back-yard a shanty in which the boys of the neighborhood gathered after school and during vacation1 to hold their club-meetings4 ,many a pleasant hour was spent within the walls of this little building1 and it had to be enlarged year after year to hold the ever-increasing number of members4 ,if1 during the week of school preceding the summer vacation1 the boys were seen making plans and talking seriously about something evidently in connection with the house1 it might well be imagined that the annual alterations were about to begin4 ,at the close of school the neighbors were made aware of it by the appearance of half a dozen boys upon the roof of the shanty1 who1 with hammers and hatchets in their hands1 were easily recognized as the wrecking crew4 ,perhaps the roof was to be raised a foot or given a different pitch1 a window changed here or a door placed there1 a side extended or a partition built through the centre2 but no matter whether the alterations bettered the building or not1 they gave the owners a chance to use their ingenuity in working out their schemes1 and practice in carpenter work4 ,the boys' greatest difficulty was found in obtaining large enough material with which to build4 ,the woodshed was the lumber-yard1 and as this contained only a few old boards1 several packing-cases1 and kindling-wood1 a great deal of splicing was required and many pounds of nails were necessary to fasten the many small pieces in place4 ,after remodelling the club-house one year1 the members in way of a joke placed a ,for ,rent sign upon the door1 and were greatly surprised to receive the following mysterious letter3-- ,,mister ,,agent3 i sea u hev a house ,fur rent what u want furit im a wider with #ab children six pigs #e chickens a mule three dogs #g cats and ten ducks i hop the house is big enuff it dont matter bout the children but i wont crowd the pigs4 i soppose will paint outside an in and put awnins at the frunt winders i'd like terry cotty shades and a stun sidewalk i,f u'll put a piassie on and reduce the rent till after wurlds ,fair i'll take it what you want furit please let me know soon i,f u dont find me hum im like to be at mis whatnots if u dont know the way to her house just ask mis jones next door but one to me she'll tell u ,good by4 ,,mary ,,jane ,,johnstone4 ,the letter was answered immediately and sent to the general delivery but was returned from the ,dead ,letter ,office1 and no trace of the large family could be found4 ,illustration3 ,the ,back-yard ,club-house4 ,knowing that many boys who would like to build themselves a club-house have not the money in their treasury with which to buy new lumber1 this chapter will describe the manner in which a rough-and-ready house may be built4 ,it will not be attempted to show the correct methods of putting up a framework1 such as would be built if the right-sized lumber were obtainable1 but the simplest way in which boys can make use of the material at hand4 ,draw the ,plan of the building upon a piece of paper1 and before commencing work figure out exactly what material will be required4 ,if you haven't enough lumber you will find it a great deal easier to alter the plans at first than when the work is half completed4 ,it is best first to place in one pile all ,the ,material you can find2 then1 after drawing the plans1 sort out the boards according to their lengths4 ,use the short boards whenever possible1 so that the long pieces may be kept for places requiring long boards4 ,several two-by-fours should be secured for the framework4 ,if you do not happen to have these1 you can easily get what you want at some alteration job or where some frame structure is being torn down4 ,short two-by-fours may be spliced1 or1 more correctly speaking1 fished4 ,this is very often resorted to in building when studding of a sufficient length cannot be procured4 ,figure #ahc shows the method of ,fishing ,studs4--,two fish-plates1 ,a and ,b1 are nailed to the sides of the studs1 covering the joints1 while the face ,,od remains on a level to receive the siding4 ,by building the club-house in a corner of the yard1 against the fence1 house1 or barn1 it is necessary to build but two walls4 ,less material is required1 and a much firmer structure obtained by doing this4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahc4 ,stake out the length and width of the house upon the ground1 and sink a stone or a couple of bricks at the corner to support the corner post4 ,then cut two two-by-fours the length of the greatest inside height of the house4 ,set one upon the corner stone1 bracing it temporarily with boards run from it to the fence1 and spike the other to the fence on a line with the corner post 7see ,a and ,b in ,fig4 #ahd74 ,cut the end-plate ,c the correct length and spike it to ,a and ,b1 after which cut a two-by-four the length of the shortest inside height1 and spike it to the fence rails at ,d4 ,nail the boards ,e1 ,f1 ,g1 ,h1 and ,i to the places shown in ,fig4 #ahd4 ,the ,studs should be placed from two to three feet apart1 according to the length of boards used for siding1 and additional studding should be set in where it is necessary4 ,fasten the ends of the studs to the boards ,e1 ,f1 ,g1 ,h1 and ,i4 ,studding should be placed around the window and door openings1 as shown in the illustration4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahd4--;,framework of ,club-house4 ,after completing the framework1 ,board up the ,sides1 fitting the boards around openings and corners as neatly as possible4 ,the ,roof is a very important factor in a building of any kind1 and care should be taken to make it of water-proof material1 for a leaky roof will not only ruin the interior but make it damp and thus unhealthy4 ,tar-paper will be found a good roofing material1 inexpensive1 and easily put on4 ,first cover the roof with boards placed about one inch apart4 ,then cut the tar-paper into lengths equal to the width of the roof4 ,commencing at the lower edge of the roof tack one strip in place4 ,lap a second strip two inches over the first1 a third two inches over the second1 and so on until the entire roof is covered4 ,figure #ahe shows a tin cap and nail made especially for this kind of work4 ,the cap is punched to fit over the nail1 and prevents water from running into the hole made by the latter4 ,it will be unnecessary to coat the paper with tar1 as there is sufficient in its preparation to keep it water proof a long time--probably longer than the house itself will be allowed to stand4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahe4 ,the ,floor should not be laid directly upon the ground1 but be supported upon four-inch sleepers set as shown in ,fig4 #ahf1 with cinders rammed in between them4 ,the bed of cinders should not be more than three inches thick1 so there will be an inch of air space between them and the floor4 ,this will help to keep the floor free from dampness4 ,four-inch boards stood on edge will do very well for the sleepers4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahf4--;,construction of ,floor4 ,you can probably make a bargain with a carpenter for ,a ,window-sash4--,they very often have a number taken from old buildings1 which they will gladly sell for a small sum4 ,there are two ways in which you can easily fasten the sash in place1 either with hinges so it will swing in1 as shown in ,figs4 #ahg and #ahh1 or in tracks1 to slide as described for the dark-room window in ,chapter ,,xi and illustrated in ,fig4 #afi4 ,if the window is made in the front of the building1 as shown in the sketch of the finished club-house1 the sash will necessarily have to be hinged1 as there would not be room for it to slide sideways4 ,we will therefore hinge it to swing in as shown in ,figs4 #ahg and #ahh4 ,the studding which was placed around the window opening when you erected the framework of the house forms a frame for the sash to set in4 ,the window-sill is made out of a seven-eighths-inch board cut the width of the opening1 and should be nailed to the bottom piece of the frame so it pitches slightly outwards and its edges project a little beyond the wall inside and out 7see ,fig4 #ahh74 ,the pitch of the sill can be obtained by blocking the inner edge with a very thin strip of wood1 as shown in the section drawing4 ,the sash should fit the frame with but enough space around it to allow it to open freely4 ,place the sash in the opening with its inside surface on a line with the inside face of the two-by-four frame1 as shown in ,fig4 #ahh1 and nail a seven-eighths-inch window-stop around the frame outside of the sash to keep the rain and wind from entering4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahh4--,section through ,window4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahg4--;,inside of ,window4 ,by hinging the sash to the top of the frame as shown in the illustration1 it can be swung up out of the way when opened4 ,a spring-catch should be screwed to the bottom rail of the sash with the latch-pocket counter sunk in the window-sill1 and from the knob of the catch a cord should be attached and run through a screw-eye placed in the wall near the ceiling4 ,the sash can now be opened by pulling the cord1 and may be held open by looping the end of the cord over a nail4 ,wooden buttons should be screwed to the inside edge of the jambs for additional locks 7see ,fig4 #ahg74 ,a sill should be set in the bottom of the door frame1 and a seven-eighths inch stop nailed to the top and to the jambs in the same way as you finished the window opening4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahi4--;,a ,batten ,door4 ,make a ,batten ,door1 fastening the boards together on the inside with battens as shown in ,fig4 #ahi1 with the nails driven through from the outside face and clinched upon the battens4 ,hinge the door to the inside face of the jamb with strap-hinges1 and either buy an iron latch for it or make the old-fashioned ,wooden ,latch described and illustrated in the following chapter4 ,with the carpenter work of the house completed1 ,calk up the ,cracks1 of which there will doubtless be a great number1 unless matched boards have been used for the walls4 ,this may be done by rolling pieces of newspapers into wads and wedging them into the cracks with a pointed stick4 ,several thicknesses of wrapping-paper tacked over the inside walls will help to prevent the wind from entering1 and will also make a good foundation for wall-paper should it be placed upon the walls4 ,earth should be banked up around the outside of the house to keep away the water4 ,vines trained over the outside will help to hide the roughness of the boards4 ,the club-house interior may be fitted up with furniture such as is described in ,chapter ,,iv1 ,suggestions for a ,boy's ,room4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,how ,,to ,,build ,a ,,log-,,cabin ,illustration3 ,boy ,cleaning ,dishes and ,boy ,cooking outside the ,cabin4 ,the log-cabin marks what might be called the beginning of ,american architecture1 for it was the first form of building built by white men upon ,american soil4 ,the introduction of saw-mills was very slow1 and lumber so scarce that cabins were the best shelter the colonists could build to withstand the cold winters and the merciless attacks of ,indians4 ,with the building of saw-mills1 the cabin gradually gave way to the frame building1 which could be more quickly built1 and which was1 of course1 a more comfortable lodging4 ,but this change first took place up and down the large rivers1 where the mills were located1 and did not extend into the interior until some time later1 owing to the difficulty of hauling lumber to great distances from the mills4 ,to-day the log-cabin is still to be found in the timber regions and among the mountains1 but mostly for temporary residences1 such as summer homes1 camps1 and play-houses4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aij4--,plan for a ,boy's ,cabin4 ,you boys who spend the summer in the woods should not miss the opportunity of building yourselves a small cabin4 ,several boys can join forces1 and in this way make the work easier and quicker to perform4 ,select a ,site on high ground1 as near to your source of timber as possible1 and then decide upon ,the ,design and ,size to build it1 which will be determined largely by the size and amount of timber you can procure4 ,a plan for a cabin simple in construction is shown in ,fig4 #aij1 and while the details have been carefully worked out in this chapter for a cabin of this size1 you will find it a simple matter to make such alterations as you wish4 ,for the building of more pretentious cabins1 the writer would refer his readers to ,log ,cabins and ,cottages as the most practical book published upon this subject4 ,in this volume its author1 ,mr4 ,william ,s4 ,wicks1 has not only written upon the construction and treatment of cabins1 but also brought together a number of sketches showing a great variety of clever designs that have been built in different sections of the country4 ,in carrying out the details of construction for the cabin described in this chapter1 the writer has made use of a number of ideas from this book1 through the courtesy of ,mr4 ,wicks and his publishers4 ,of course the most of ,the ,material for the cabin will be secured near at hand1 but for a good roof1 and the finishing of the door and window openings1 a few boards should be taken along1 together with several pounds of nails4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,boys' ,,log ,,cabin4 ,while it is customary to lay up the walls of a cabin and then cut the door and window openings1 you will find it a very much simpler matter to leave the spaces for them when laying up the logs1 as it greatly decreases the number of long logs required to build the cabin4 ,as the inside dimensions of the cabin shown in the plan of ,fig4 #aij are ten by twelve feet1 the full-length logs--that is1 those above and below the window and door openings--should be thirteen feet long for the ends of the cabin and fifteen feet for the front and rear walls4 ,to start the ,cabin1 stake out its length and breadth upon the ground1 clear the space of all trees and brush1 and make the ground as nearly level as possible4 ,you will find it unnecessary to have a foundation for a cabin of this size1 as it will not settle to amount to anything4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aia4--,the ,lock-joint4 ,probably the most simple way of joining the logs together is what is known as ,the ,lock-joint4--,as shown in ,fig4 #aia1 a notch is cut in the logs twelve inches from each end1 so the surfaces of the logs will be brought together when the ends are fitted over one another1 as shown in the drawing4 ,select two fifteen-foot logs for ,the ,sills1 and set them an inch or so into the ground1 parallel to each other and ten feet apart4 ,then after cutting the notches in two thirteen-foot logs1 fit them over the sills twelve inches from the ends4 ,the opening for the fire-place must be left in one end of the cabin1 so mark out upon the end log the width of this opening1 which should be five feet1 and cut out this section of it4 ,then cut two boards three feet long1 the height of the fire-place opening1 and nail them to the ends of the log just cut4 ,these boards form the jambs of the opening4 ,locate a three-foot door opening in the centre of the front sill-log1 and saw along these lines to within two inches of the ground1 cutting out the piece between4 ,the remaining two-inch piece will form the door-sill4 ,two pieces of board six feet six inches long1 the height of the door opening1 should now be cut for the door-jambs and nailed to the ends of the sill-log in the door opening4 ,after testing the jambs with a plumb1 such as is shown in ,fig4 #ad1 ,chapter ,i1 to see that they are perpendicular1 continue laying the side and end logs alternately4 ,fit the logs between the jambs and nail the latter to their ends1 being careful not to get them out of plumb in doing so4 ,above the fire-place the logs will1 of course1 be of full length1 and at a height of four feet four inches the windows will start4 ,locate the window openings twenty-six inches wide upon the logs laid at this height1 the one opposite the fire-place in the centre of the wall1 and the others twelve inches from the corners4 ,cut the jambs twenty-six inches long1 and1 after setting them in place1 continue laying up the logs1 fitting the shorter lengths between the jambs as before4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aib4--;,interior of ,cabin4 ,when the desired height of the walls has been reached1 which need not be more than seven feet1 you will be ready ,to construct the ,roof4--,there are several ways of doing this1 but as simple as any is that shown in ,fig4 #aib1 and in the illustration of the finished cabin4 ,in laying this form of roof the end logs are placed one above the other1 but each tier of front and rear logs is set in a little farther than the preceding pair1 until they finally meet at the peak of the roof4 ,the roofs of cabins are generally thatched or covered with bark1 shingles1 or boards4 ,the thatched roof is the most artistic1 and will last from ten to fifteen years when properly made2 but unless the straw is put on very thickly and closely woven1 it is likely to leak4 ,if you use shingles and expose each four and one-half inches to the weather1 you will require about seven quarter-thousand bunches for a roof of this size4 ,boards will make the most simple and inexpensive covering4 ,they should be put on as shown in the drawing of the completed cabin1 and in ,fig4 #aib4 ,a layer of boards is first nailed across the roof-supports four inches apart1 and other boards then lapped over these spaces and nailed in place4 ,the roof boards should project a few inches over the side walls and gable-ends of the cabin4 ,when all of the boards have been put in place1 it will be necessary to finish off the ridge with ,ridge ,boards1 to prevent water from leaking through the roof at that point4 ,as shown in ,fig4 #aib1 these consist of two boards nailed along the ridge1 and the edge of one nailed to the edge of the other4 ,it is not advisable to build ,a ,log ,chimney and ,fire-place with the intention of using it1 for unless the work is very carefully done and kept in repair1 there is always danger of setting fire to the cabin4 ,but1 nevertheless1 it should be built1 as it belongs to a cabin and adds greatly to its picturesque appearance4 ,with large logs build up the chimney to a height of five feet1 or two feet above the fire-place opening1 in the same manner as you did the cabin walls1 fitting the ends against the logs of the main structure4 ,when this has been done sink a number of stones in front of the fire-place for a hearth1 as shown in ,figs4 #aij and #aib1 and also line the bottom of the fire-place with them4 ,then mix up some clay and line the back1 sides1 and jambs of the fire-place with it from ten to twelve inches thick1 packing the clay until it becomes solid4 ,the upper part of the chimney should be made of smaller logs and sticks1 and the inside of the flue lined with clay as the work proceeds4 ,the exterior of the chimney will be seen in the illustration of the finished cabin4 ,when the construction of the cabin has been completed1 ,calk all the ,spaces between the logs with clay and moss1 to keep out the weather1 using a pointed stick for this operation2 and grade the ground up to a point just below the line of the door-sill all around the cabin1 so that no surface-water will run within4 ,the finishing of the interior of the cabin now remains to be done4 ,by omitting a wooden floor the cost of material will be reduced considerably1 and there is really nothing objectionable to ,a ,mud ,floor if it has been properly prepared4 ,the earth should be thoroughly dried out and packed down until hard and compact1 and slightly banked up around the walls4 ,the sills and heads of ,the ,window ,openings and the head of the door opening should be cased with boards the width of the jambs4 ,if you can secure sash for the windows1 hinge them to the inside edges of the jambs as shown in ,fig4 #aij1 and nail a seven-eighths-inch window-stop around the jambs outside of them1 to prevent the wind and rain from getting in around the sash 7see ,fig4 #aic74 ,if sash cannot be obtained1 wooden shutters made to fit the opening will do very well1 as they can be used at night and whenever you wish to close up the cabin1 and when you are within the cabin in the summer you will want the windows open4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aic4 ,after cutting boards of the proper length for ,the ,cabin ,door1 fasten them together with battens placed at the top1 bottom1 and centre 7see ,fig4 #aid74 ,then hinge the door to the inside of the jamb with either iron strap-hinges or ,wooden ,hinges such as are shown in ,fig4 #aid4 ,to make a set of wooden hinges1 first cut three blocks of wood four or five inches long and nail them to the cabin wall on a line with the three door battens 7see ,a1 ,b1 and ,c in ,fig4 #aid74 ,then prepare three pieces of wood eighteen inches long and two inches wide1 and bore a small hole through one end of each1 as shown at ,d in ,fig4 #aie4 ,when these have been made1 nail them to the door above the battens so that when the door is put in place their ends will rest on blocks ,a1 ,b1 and ,c4 ,locate the holes in the eighteen-inch strips upon ,a1 ,b1 and ,c1 and bore holes through the blocks at these points1 after which set the door in place and fasten the arms of the hinges to the blocks1 either with bolts1 as shown in ,fig4 #aid1 or with hardwood pegs cut to fit the holes4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aid4--,the ,cabin ,door4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #aie-aii4--;,details of ,cabin ,door4 ,you will find the old-fashioned ,wooden ,latch and latch-string a very good and serviceable fastening for a cabin door1 the details for the making of which are shown in ,figs4 #aid1 #aif1 #aig1 #aih1 and #aii4 ,it consists of three pieces of wood1--a strip two feet long and two inches wide for the latch1 with the ends rounded and a hole bored through it at ,e and another at ,f1 as shown in ,fig4 #aif2 a guard cut similar to ,fig4 #aig1 with a slot in it about three and one-half inches long and one inch deep2 and a catch similar to ,fig4 #aih1 with its upper edge rounded so the latch will easily slide into the slot4 ,with the pieces thus prepared you will find it an easy matter to fasten them in the places shown in ,fig4 #aid4 ,the catch is set into the jamb of the door as shown in ,fig4 #aih1 the latch is screwed to the door at ,e1 and the guard is fastened over the latch in the position shown in ,fig4 #aid4 ,the ,latch-string is fastened to the latch at ,f1 and run through a hole bored in the door above the top batten4 ,to the outside end of the latch-string attach a weight of some kind to keep it from pulling through the hole 7see ,fig4 #aii74 ,to lock the door from the inside1 you will find a wooden button screwed to the door at ,g 7,fig4 #aid7 very good1 as it prevents the latch from being lifted1 when turned against it as shown in the illustration4 ,as in the case of the windows1 a seven-eighths-inch stop should be nailed to the door head and jambs outside of the door1 for the door to swing against1 and to keep out the rain and wind 7see ,fig4 #aic74 ,you will have need of but few pieces of furniture within the cabin1 and those can be made very simple1 out of material at hand4 ,a ,mantel-shelf out of a board five feet long should be fastened above the fire-place by means of three triangular brackets1 and it is a good idea to make your ,provision ,cupboard to sit upon this1 as shown in the drawing of the cabin interior 7,fig4 #aib74 ,use a couple of the boxes in which you bring your camping outfit for this4 ,set them side by side1 as in the illustration1 place a shelf or two within them1 and1 after battening the cover boards together1 attach them to the ends of the boxes with hinges cut out of leather4 ,on each side of the fire-place a comfortable ,rustic ,seat should be built in as shown in ,figs4 #aij and #aib4 ,the drawings clearly show the construction of this4 ,the two legs are driven well into the ground1 and a crosspiece is nailed to their tops to support the sticks forming the seat4 ,make the top of the seat about eighteen inches above the ground4 ,while a very comfortable bed may be made upon the ground out of pine boughs1 it is well to have at least ,two ,bunks for guests1 who are almost certain to pay you a visit to see what kind of a time you are having1 and perhaps test your cooking4 ,these bunks may be double-decked and placed in the corner where they will be pretty well out of the way 7see ,figs4 #aij and #aib74 ,two six-foot poles should be driven into the ground about thirty inches from the wall1 and two cross poles notched and fitted on to them as shown in ,fig4 #aib1 one six inches above the ground and the other three feet above that4 ,cut a number of sound sticks about three feet long and drive one end of each between the logs of the wall and fasten the other end to the crosspiece opposite4 ,these sticks should be placed about three inches apart4 ,in putting up this framework make everything very strong and solid1 to prevent any mishaps to the occupants4 ,the bunks should now be covered with pine boughs1 cut into small pieces and spread over the sticks evenly and to a depth of two inches4 ,when these have been properly placed1 spread a doubled quilt or blanket over them1 and the bunks will be completed4 ,illustration3 ,,two ,,simple ,,cabins4 ,as we decided not to use our fire-place for fires1 owing to the danger of setting fire to the cabin through some defects in the workmanship1 or the cracking of the clay lining1 build your camp fire-place outside of the cabin4 ,you will find it more enjoyable to also eat in the open when the weather permits1 so build ,a ,camp-table between the trees for this purpose4 ,it may be made out of two eight-inch boards fastened together on the under side with battens1 and supported at one end on a cleat nailed across the trunk of a tree and at the other on two poles driven into the ground4 ,the height of this table will be determined by the height of the boxes1 stools1 or whatever you use for seats4 ,it is a simple matter to make a long rustic seat on each side of the table1 and if this is done make them eighteen inches high and the table twelve inches higher4 ,those of you who have camped have probably had enough experience to know what utensils and provisions are required1 but ,a ,few ,pointers may be profitable to the boy who has never been initiated into camp life4 ,utensils of the commonest kind should be taken along4 ,an old frying-pan1 a coffee-pot1 two water pails1 a tin pan and wash-basin1 tin plates and drinking cups1 some old spoons1 knives1 and forks1 a can-opener1 and a jack-knife are about all you will be in need of4 ,among ,other ,necessities are blankets1 towels1 dish-cloths1 rags1 soap1 rope1 and string1 matches1 a lantern1 and an axe1 a saw1 and nails4 ,for ,provisions1 take as much canned food as possible1 as it requires but little preparation1 is easily carried1 and not likely to spoil4 ,bacon and eggs are1 of course1 to be included in your list1 as they belong to a camper's bill o' fare1 are very satisfying to a fellow's appetite when he has returned to camp hungry after a day's tramp through the woods1 and a boy will have but little trouble in cooking them4 ,be sure you know how to prepare whatever food you take along to cook1 before starting for camp1 and don't experiment upon dishes you have never attempted1 or you will probably make a mess of your materials1 as is generally the case1 the result of which will not be fit to eat4 ,should there be fishing near the site of your camp1 learn the proper preparation of fish for your table4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,how ,,to ,,build ,a ,,canvas ,,canoe ,illustration3 ,boys ,canoeing4 ,canoeing is a most delightful outdoor sport1 and one of the healthiest in which a boy can indulge during his vacation days4 ,its popularity can plainly be seen by visiting any lake or stream1 and noting what a large percentage of the small craft dotting its surface are canoes of various shapes and sizes1 paddled by boys of all ages4 ,for speed and the ease with which it can be carried about1 the birch-bark canoe has no equal1 but very few boys own them1 as they are expensive1 and their construction is more difficult than those of other material which will satisfy a boy fully as well4 ,the canvas canoe is more widely used at the present time than any other form1 which is no doubt due to the fact that it is very simple to make and keep in repair1 and the cost of its material is small4 ,in building a canvas canoe there are two important things to consider1--its weight and strength4 ,these depend upon the material used4 ,the framework must be made stiff enough to hold its shape1 as the canvas adds but little to its strength1 and at the same time the wood should be as light as possible4 ,there are a great variety of ,materials from which to choose for building the framework1 among which basswood1 ash1 spruce1 and pine may be classed4 ,the canoe described and illustrated in this chapter may have its ribs1 ribbands1 and gunwales made out of lattice-strips and barrel-hoops1 which will save the cost of having them cut to the right size at a mill4 ,pine or fir lattice-strips of good sound stuff are generally easy to obtain in all locations4 ,,sizes ,,of ,,strips ,,and ,,pieces ,,required #a piece of #b-;inch by #h-;inch plank #f feet long for bow and stern pieces4 #ae #b-;inch by #c_/h-;inch lattice strips #ab feet long for ribbands1 gunwales1 keel1 and bilge-keels4 #bj barrel-hoops for ribs and deck braces4 #a strip #h feet long1 #b inches wide1 and #a inch thick for keelson4 #b strips #d feet long1 #b inches wide1 and #e_/h-;inch thick for deck ridge pieces4 #b strips #h feet long1 #d inches wide1 and #a_/d-;inch thick for cockpit frame and coaming4 ,several #f-;inch and #h-;inch boards from which to cut deck beams1 patterns1 etc4 ,copper nails and brass screws should be purchased for fastening the framework together1 and copper tacks for putting on the canvas4 ,iron nails will rust and break off1 and therefore should not be used in any part of the canoe's construction4 ,use nails only where their ends can be clinched1 and screws in all cases where this cannot be done4 ,for covering the framework1 three and one-half yards of canvas forty inches wide will be required for the lower portion1 and the same amount thirty inches wide will be required for the deck4 ,boiled linseed-oil should be purchased for filling the canvas and the best grade of mixed paint for painting it4 ,a drab1 or cream color and white trimmings1 are both suitable for a canoe4 ,if the latter is used1 buy white paint1 and1 after pouring out enough to cover the finishing strips1 mix the rest with enough yellow ochre to make a pretty shade of cream4 ,below will be found a bill of the material required to build a canoe such as this chapter describes1 and although the prices of canvas and a few of the fittings are likely to fluctuate somewhat1 the price of the canoe should not exceed this amount1 and there are locations where it may be less4 ,,bill ,,of ,,material #c-a_/b yards ,no4 #aj ,duck1 #cj inches wide1 #bg cents #j4ie #c-a_/b yards ,no4 #aj ,duck1 #dj inches wide1 #cf cents #a4bf #a-a_/b pounds #a-;inch ,copper ,nails1#cj cents 4#de #b pounds #c_/h-;inch ,copper ,tacks1 #ce cents 4#gj #b dozen #c_/d-;inch ,brass ,screws 7,flat ,heads71 #g cents 4#ad #f dozen #e_/h-;inch ,brass ,screws 7,flat ,heads71 #f cents 4#cf #c dozen #e_/h-;inch ,brass ,screws 7,round ,heads71 #f cents 4#ah #a_/b gallon ,boiled ,linseed-oil 4#be #a_/b gallon ,best ,quality ,mixed ,paint 4#ge #ae ,lattice-strips1 #ab feet long 4#ij #a ,piece of #b-;inch by #h-;inch ,plank #f feet long 4#bj ,miscellaneous ,strips and ,pieces 7see page #bjb7 4#ej ---- ,total cost #f4fd ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bjj4--;,bow and ,stern ,pieces4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bja4 ,having procured the necessary material for the canoe1 the first things to make are ,the ,bow and ,stern ,pieces 7see ,fig4 #bjj74--,the proper way of laying these out on the eight-inch plank is shown in ,fig4 #bja4 ,first cut the plank in half1 and then place these two pieces side by side upon the floor or work-bench as shown in the drawing one piece upon which to draw the pattern1 and the other upon which to locate the centre for drawing the curves4 ,then square the line ,,ab across the planks1 and locate the points ,d and ,e on either side of it1 by means of the measurements given upon the drawing4 ,the most satisfactory scheme for ,drawing the ,curves is with a piece of cord1 to one end of which a pencil has been tied 7see ,fig4 #bja74 ,with this as your compass1 hold the end of the cord at ,d for a centre1 and with a radius of ten and one-quarter inches strike an arc cutting the line ,,ab as at ,c4 ,c is now the required centre for drawing the curves4 ,drive a small nail into the plank at ,c1 and wind the end of the compass cord around it until the correct length of radius is obtained 7see drawing74 ,describe the arc ,,de with a radius equal to ,,cd1 or ten and one-quarter inches4 ,then with a ruler lay off along the line ,,ab the distances for the other arcs1 as shown in the drawing4 ,,fg will be two inches from ,,de1 ,,hi an inch and one-half from ,,fg1 and ,,jk an inch and one-quarter from ,,hi4 ,having located these points and described the arcs1 draw the lines ,,cd and ,,ce1 extending them so as to cut off the arcs1 as in the drawing4 ,at the upper end of the pattern draw the line ,,lm one inch from and parallel to ,,fd4 ,with a radius of an inch and three-quarters and the centre ,n describe an arc as shown in the drawing4 ,at the lower end of the pattern draw the line ,,op two inches from and parallel to ,,gk1 and the line ,,qr one inch from and parallel to ,,pk4 ,having carefully drawn out this pattern1 turn over the plank and draw the same thing upon it1 locating the points exactly opposite one another1 by squaring lines across the sides and edge4 ,prepare the other piece of plank similarly4 ,to cut out the patterns1 place them in the vise of your work-bench1 one at a time1 and rabbet the surfaces between ,,de and ,,fg1 and ,,fg and ,,hi1 as shown in the section drawing1 ,fig4 #bjb4 ,this done reverse the piece and do the same to that side4 ,when these surfaces have been trued up carefully1 remove the piece from the vise and saw the pattern from it4 ,in doing this1 first saw along the lines ,,dj and ,,ek1 and cut out the corners ,,flmd and ,,pqrk4 ,then follow roughly the curves of lines ,,de and ,,jp1 after which place the work in the vise and trim them off nicely with a draw-knife1 rounding the outer curve as shown in ,fig4 #bjb4 ,the portion ,,oqrg should be cut down to a plain surface as shown in ,fig4 #bjj4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bjb4--,section through ,bow and ,stern ,pieces4 ,with the bow and stern pieces completed1 the most difficult part of your work has been accomplished4 ,now pick out the eight-foot strip procured for ,the ,keelson4--,square off the ends so that it is exactly eight feet long1 and then1 commencing six inches from one end1 lay off mortises for the ribs 7see ,fig4 #bjc74 ,these mortises should be cut half an inch deep and the width of the barrel-hoops1 and their centres should be spaced twelve inches apart4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bjc4--,the ,keelson4 ,in order to give the correct shape to the canoe in putting the framework together1 it will be necessary to make ,a ,mould similar to ,fig4 #bjd4 ,fasten together two boards about two feet long with battens1 as shown in the drawing1 and with a piece of cord to which a pencil has been attached describe a semicircle upon it1 using a radius of eleven and one-half inches4 ,saw out the mould carefully1 and in the centre of the bottom cut a mortise two inches by one-half for the keelson to fit in4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bjd4--,the ,mould4 ,everything should now be in readiness ,to put the ,framework together4--,in order to give the keelson the proper slope of one inch between its centre and ends1 nail two blocks of wood one inch thick to the work-bench eight feet apart1 and rest the ends of the keelson upon them4 ,then fasten the ends of the keelson in the mortises cut in the bottom of the bow and stern pieces4 ,set the mould which you have prepared over the exact centre of the keelson1 and fasten it in place temporarily4 ,when this has been done take two lattice-strips for ,the ,gunwales1 and after locating the exact centre of each1 screw them at this point to the ends of the mould just below the top4 ,drive these screws but part way in1 as the mould is to be removed later on4 ,commencing at the bow end of the canoe1 draw the end of one gunwale to the bow piece1 and1 after marking it the correct length cut it off so it will fit nicely in the rabbet cut in the side of the bow piece4 ,then screw the other end to the stern piece1 after which attach the gunwale on the opposite side in the same way 7see ,figs4 #bjj1 #bje1 and #bjf74 ,now take the barrel-hoops which are to be used for ribs1 and fasten them in the mortises cut for them in the keelson1 bending their ends until they come inside of the gunwales4 ,then fasten them to the gunwales and trim their ends so as to be even with the top of the canoe 7see ,figs4 #bje and #bjf74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bje4--,top ,view of ,canoe1 showing ,gunwales1 ,ribs1 and ,ribbands in place4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bjf4--,side ,view of ,canoe1 showing ,framework completed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bjg4--,top ,view of ,canoe1 showing ,framework completed4 ,after fastening the ribs in place1 ,the ,ribbands should be put on4 ,pick out eight of the soundest lattice-strips you have1 and fasten these at their centre to the sides of the mould1 placing four on each side of the keelson and spacing them at equal distances4 ,as the mould is only temporary1 do not fasten the ribbands to it securely1 but drive in the nails part way4 ,then1 beginning at the bow1 draw the ends of the ribbands to the bow piece one at a time1 and cut them off so they will fit neatly into the rabbet4 ,screw them in place1 being careful to space them as equally as possible1 after which attach the stern ends in the same way4 ,figure #bje shows the top view of the canoe at this stage of its construction4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bjh-baa4--;,details of ,deck ,beam and ,ridge4 ,the ,deck ,beams should now be made and put in place1 one each side of the cockpit1 or fourteen inches from the centre of the canoe 7see ,fig4 #bjg74 ,at this point measure the exact distance between the gunwales1 and lay it off upon a four-inch board 7see ,fig4 #bjh74 ,the top of this piece should be curved as shown in the drawing1 and a mortise two inches wide by five-eighths of an inch deep should be cut in the edge for the deck ridge pieces to fit in4 ,as a means of preventing the gunwales from spreading1 it is best to dovetail the ends of the deck beams into them 7see ,fig4 #bjg74 ,cut a tongue half an inch long and half an inch thick on each end of the beams1 as shown in ,fig4 #bji1 undercutting it slightly1 as in the drawing1 to make it wedge-shaped4 ,then1 having prepared the ends1 place the beams in the positions they will occupy in the framework1 and mark upon the top of the gunwales the shape of the tongues4 ,mortise the gunwales at these points 7,fig4 #baj71 so the tongues can be slipped into them and fastened in place4 ,by examining the corners of a drawer you will see clearly how the dovetail joint is made4 ,the ,ridge ,pieces are strips running from the deck beams to the bow and stern pieces 7see ,figs4 #bjf and #bjg74 ,for this canoe1 they should be made out of a strip two inches wide by five-eighths of an inch thick4 ,cut them of correct length to reach from the mortises in the tops of the deck beams to the mortises cut in the tops of the bow and stern pieces4 ,mortises two inches wide and a quarter inch deep should be cut along the top of these ridges1 as shown in ,fig4 #baa1 to receive the deck braces4 ,securely screw the ridges in place4 ,then cut twelve pieces of barrel-hoops for ,the ,deck ,braces1 and fit them in the mortises made in the ridge pieces4 ,screw these in place and bend their ends until they can be fastened to the inside face of the gunwales4 ,the curve of these braces should be the same as that of the deck beams1 so it will be possible to put on the deck canvas neatly 7see ,figs4 #bjf and #bjg74 ,the space between the deck beams is left for ,the ,cockpit1 the frame for which we are now ready to prepare4 ,first remove the mould1 being careful that the framework does not spread in doing so4 ,then cut two two-inch strips to fit between the deck beams1 and fasten one on each side of the cockpit two inches from the gunwale 7see ,fig4 #bjg74 ,when this has been done take the strip eight feet long1 four inches wide1 and one-quarter inch thick1 procured for the cockpit frame1 and bend it around the opening1 fastening it to the sides of the deck beams and the side strips4 ,the top edge of the frame should now be shaved off with a draw-knife1 so that it will be on a line with the deck braces at every point 7see ,fig4 #bjf74 ,this is necessary in order to make the curve of the deck around the cockpit the same as elsewhere4 ,the framework of the canoe is now completed1 and should be painted and left to dry before you go on with the rest of the work4 ,it is no easy matter to stretch ,the ,canvas ,covering over the framework without having it wrinkle1 but with the help of a boy friend it can be stretched fairly even1 and with care and patience may be made to look neat4 ,turn the framework bottom side up and1 after finding the centre of the forty-inch strip of canvas1 lay it along the keelson from bow to stern4 ,smooth it over the surface with your hands1 and start a few tacks along the keelson to hold it in place4 ,as a means of keeping the canvas stretched over the bottom of the framework while working upon it1 attach several weights to the edges2 then1 with your helper on the side opposite you1 commence at the middle rib and stretch the canvas down that rib to the gunwales1 starting a couple of tacks in the gunwales to hold it in place4 ,then work along each rib from the centre of the framework toward the bow1 and then from the centre toward the stern1 stretching the canvas as tightly as possible1 and driving tacks along the gunwales not farther than one inch apart4 ,you will find that the only way to get the canvas on smoothly is by removing the tacks wherever any wrinkles appear and1 after restretching it1 replacing the tacks4 ,as the tacks will probably have to be removed a number of times during the operation1 it is advisable to drive them in but a little way at first4 ,it is most difficult to make a neat job at the bow and stern1 and a few wrinkles will probably remain1 no matter how much pains are taken in fitting the canvas1 on account of the narrowing of the canoe at these points4 ,fill the outer mortise made in the bow and stern pieces with paint1 and1 after folding the edges of the canvas1 tack it in these mortises4 ,place the tacks as close as their heads will permit1 which1 together with the paint1 will make a joint that water cannot penetrate4 ,now examine the canoe carefully1 and1 if you have smoothed out the wrinkles as much as possible1 drive home the tacks and trim the canvas close to the gunwales4 ,the ,deck is much easier to cover4 ,spread the piece of thirty-inch canvas over it from bow to stern1 with the centre of the canvas running along the centre of the deck1 and place a tack in it at the bow and another at the stern4 ,stretch the canvas in the same manner as when covering the bottom of the framework1 and lap it over the gunwales1 tacking it along the outer edge4 ,cut through the canvas at the cockpit1 and trim it off so there will be just enough to lap around the cockpit frame4 ,trim the canvas along the gunwales so that it does not project more than an inch4 ,after the deck has been covered1 the canoe is ready for ,painting4--,a coat of linseed-oil should first be applied to the canvas1 to fill the pores and make a good foundation for the paint4 ,then allow the canvas to dry thoroughly1 after which give it a coat of paint1--cream1 or whatever color you have selected4 ,when this has dried1 rub it down with pumice-stone or fine emery-paper1 and apply a second coat4 ,all that now remains to complete the canoe is the attachment of the cockpit coaming1 the keel1 bilge-keels1 and the outside gunwales4 ,take the strip eight feet long1 four inches wide1 and one-quarter inch thick1 which you procured for ,the ,cockpit ,coaming1 bend it around the frame of the pit1 and cut off the ends so they will join neatly4 ,then fasten it to the cockpit frame1 allowing two inches to project above the deck1 and shave off the top edge the same as you did the cockpit frame1 so it will be two inches above the deck at every point4 ,for a small canoe built for paddling only1 it is unnecessary to have anything more than a strip fastened to the bottom for ,the ,keel4--,so cut a lattice-strip eight feet in length1 and screw it along the bottom of the keelson 7see ,fig4 #bab74 ,the ,bilge-keels are lattice-strips fastened along the sides of the canoe as a protection to the canvas1 and should be attached directly over the ribbands4 ,one of these on the centre ribband of each side will be sufficient 7see ,fig4 #bab74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bab4--,the ,canvas ,canoe completed4 ,for a finish to the upper edge of the canoe1 ,outside ,gunwales should be attached outside of the present ones4 ,these will cover the joint between the canvas of the deck and the lower portion of the framework4 ,all of these outside strips should be fastened in place with the round-headed screws1 after which they should be painted4 ,figure #bab shows the canoe completed4 ,a ,seat is desirable for the bottom of the canoe1 for comfort as well as to prevent your feet from wearing out the canvas4 ,this seat should be movable1 so it may be taken out to drain the water from the bottom of the canoe1 and may be made as shown in ,fig4 #bac4 ,batten together two six-inch boards upon their under face and notch the two side edges to fit over the ribs of the framework 7see ,fig4 #bjg74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bac4--,seat4 ,in order to keep your canoe in good condition1 do not allow it to remain in the water for any length of time when not using it1 as the canvas would soon rot by doing so4 ,after a spin1 pull it out of the water1 and turn it upside down to dry2 then put it away under cover to remain until again wanted for use4 ,with the greatest of care a boy will puncture his canoe once in a while1 so it is a good idea for him to know ,how to mend ,punctures4--,there are several ways of doing this1 but the best is by either sewing a piece of canvas over the puncture and then painting it with white lead1 or daubing the canvas around the hole with varnish1 and then laying a canvas patch over it and varnishing it4 ,the making of a well-shaped paddle is no easy matter for an amateur to accomplish1 so it is advisable for a boy to procure ,a ,hand-made ,single ,paddle1 such as can be bought for a dollar and a half4 ,this is generally made of selected spruce1 with a copper-tipped end1 and is nicely finished4 ,the length of the paddle will depend upon the size of the boy who is going to use it1 but should be between four feet six inches and five feet4 ,it may be well to warn those who build canvas canoes about the ease with which they are overturned4 ,as long as the boy remains seated he is perfectly safe1 but the moment he attempts to change his position1 he need not be surprised if he receives a ducking4 ,upsets are common in canoe-racing1 and especially in a close finish1 where one paddler after another overbalances himself in his efforts to beat out his companions4 ,but these only add to the fun of such a race1 and no harm is done if the canoeist prepares for them beforehand by putting on his bathing suit4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,home-,,made ,,traps ,illustration3 ,boys ,trapping4 ,trapping and trap-making is1 and probably always will be1 a pastime which every boy enjoys4 ,if he lives in the country or near the woods he is sure to grow fond of the wild creatures around him1 and spend some time in following their tracks and watching their ways and habits4 ,if he is a city boy he may not have these advantages1 but is probably just as much interested in the study of birds and animals as his country cousin is1 and when the opportunity presents itself will slip off to the nearest woods to spend the day with his little friends1 and perhaps carry one or two back home to share city life with him4 ,when boys wish to trap animals for pets1 or for eating while camping1 or when they have become so numerous in a locality as to be a nuisance1 it can be considered clean sport2 but as soon as they begin to trap and kill them just for the fun of it1 without deriving any good whatever from the act1 they are guilty of a great cruelty4 ,the various forms and schemes for home-made traps that have been devised1 and which are to be found in use by boys all over the country1 are countless1 but there are of course a number of these which are more effective than others1 and some which have gained more favor among boys4 ,several years ago the author wrote an article upon traps1 and has since been more than pleased to note the success boys have had in making and using them4 ,with a few additions1 the same schemes have been embodied in this chapter1 and it is hoped that the several kinds of snares and traps will prove as satisfying to the majority of boy trappers4 ,they are all simple to make1 require but the material ordinarily at hand1 and are effective for most of the smaller species of animals1 and many varieties of birds4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bad4--,stick for the ,figure-four ,trap4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bae4--,the ,figure-four4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #baf4--,the ,figure-four ,trap set4 ,one of the oldest forms of traps1 and one of which every boy should understand the construction1 is ,the ,figure-four ,trap4--,it is about the simplest example1 and its principle will be found in the schemes of a great many of the more complicated traps4 ,for this the preparation of three sticks1 such as are shown in ,fig4 #bad1 will be necessary4 ,these sticks may be made of any length you wish1 but their proportion should be about as shown in the drawings4 ,the illustrations show clearly how the sticks should be notched1 and how one end of the trigger should be tapered for the bait4 ,fig4 #bae will explain the manner in which these sticks are placed together in the form of a figure-four4 ,the rest of the trap consists of a soap-or cracker-box with the cover hinged to it4 ,to set the trap1 place the box upon the ground1 cover down1 and rest its upper edge upon the top of the figure-four1 as shown in ,fig4 #baf4 ,when putting the figure-four together1 it is necessary to hold the sticks until the box is set upon them1 as the weight is required to hold them in position4 ,for squirrels and rabbits1 for which this trap is very good1 bait the trigger with a carrot1 piece of apple1 or cabbage leaf4 ,it is easy to see that the slightest nibble at the bait will disarrange the sticks1 and cause the box to drop over the game4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bag-bai4--;,a ,box ,trap4 ,in ,fig4 #bag is shown an invention of the writer's1 a simplified form of the much-used ,box ,trap1 having the principle of the figure-four involved in its trigger4 ,this trap has proven exceptionally good for rabbits and squirrels4 ,a small box about the size of a cracker-or soap-box should be procured for the making of this trap4 ,remove one end1 and1 after nailing it to the cover boards1 hinge the latter to the end of the box1 as shown in the illustrations 7,figs4 #bag and #bah74 ,with no hinges at hand1 the writer has found several nails driven through the ends of the cover boards sufficient to hold the cover while opening and closing it4 ,bore two holes1 one over the other1 in the back of the box1 and cut out the space between4 ,this makes a rectangular slot 7see ,d in ,fig4 #bah74 ,when this has been done1 take a stick about eighteen inches long1 and1 after tapering one end1 nail it to the box cover1 allowing the tapered end to project about nine inches4 ,then prepare a trigger twelve inches long1 similar to ,fig4 #bai4 ,the trap is now ready to set1 which is done by slipping the trigger into the slot at ,d and1 after baiting it at ,c1 catching the notch ,b on to the box at the top of the slot1 at the same time fitting stick ,e into the notch at ,a 7see cross section1 ,fig4 #bah74 ,the weight of the cover will now hold the trigger in place until bunny1 or some one of his neighbors1 attacks the inviting bait4 ,then the trigger will loosen its hold at ,b1 and cause the cover to fall over the intruder4 ,a few holes may be bored in the side of the box for ventilation1 but these1 as well as the slot in the back1 should be protected with tin1 to prevent your captive from gnawing the openings large enough to escape4 ,the ,dead ,fall is a trap commonly used for skunks1 minks1 muskrats1 and coons1 and probably cannot be excelled as a means of killing off destructive and annoying animals4 ,figure #bbj shows a form of this trap which has been successfully employed4 ,first make a pen out of stakes driven well into the ground in the form of a wigwam4 ,this is a guard for the bait1 and should be open on one side only1 as shown in the illustration4 ,place a short log in front of the opening1 and at both ends of this drive a stake against the outer face of the log1 as shown in the drawing4 ,then procure a log of the same diameter1 and about six feet long1 and slip it between these stakes and the wigwam1 so it falls upon the first log4 ,cut a forked stick about twelve inches long for the bait-stick1 notching one end and tapering the other1 as shown in ,fig4 #bba1 and cut another stick twenty-four inches long and flatten it at both ends4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bba4--,the ,bait-stick4 ,,fig4 #bbj4--,the ,dead ,fall4 ,to set the dead fall1 raise an end of the upper log and slip one end of the flattened stick under it1 resting it upon the top of the stake outside of the log4 ,place the bait-stick1 point downward1 inside of the pen upon a chip of wood1 and set the other end of the flattened stick in the notch 7see illustration74 ,the bait-stick should now be in such a position that the log above it will fall when the bait is tackled1 and strike its victim on the head or neck with sufficient force to kill it4 ,for baiting this trap1 use some food of which the animal is particularly fond4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bbb4--,the ,coop ,trap4 ,the ,sieve ,trap4--,this is a most simple form of trap1 consisting of a sieve and a short stick with which to prop up one side of it4 ,fasten a long cord to the stick1 and1 after scattering grain beneath the sieve1 carry the end of the cord to a place of concealment to await the appearance of some birds4 ,as soon as these are attracted by the grain1 and begin feeding under the sieve1 pull the cord and they will be your prisoners4 ,the ,coop ,trap1 shown in ,fig4 #bbb1 can be used for trapping the larger variety of birds4 ,this is well known as an effective trap for wild turkeys4 ,it consists of a number of sticks piled up in the form of a pyramid and tied together as shown in ,fig4 #bbb4 ,dig away enough of the ground under one side of the coop to allow a bird to enter1 and then scatter some grain inside and a little in the entrance to attract the birds4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bbe4 ,,fig4 #bbf4 ,,fig4 #bbd4 ,,fig4 #bbc4 ,a ,rabbit ,snare and ,twitch-up4 ,it may seem strange to the reader1 but it is nevertheless a fact1 that1 after entering the coop1 a bird will try to fly out of the top1 and will remain there until starved to death1 if not released1 without attempting to escape by the way it entered4 ,a ,rabbit ,snare4--,this can be used to the best advantage after the first snowfall1 for the footprints of a rabbit are then easy to follow4 ,bunny can be counted upon keeping in the same path to and from his burrow1 and a snare set in the centre of his path is pretty certain to catch him before very long4 ,the snare should be made of a piece of soft wire about two feet long4 ,make a noose in one end about four inches in diameter1 and fasten the other end to a branch projecting over the path 7see ,fig4 #bbc74 ,this noose is commonly attached to what is known as ,a ,twitch-up1 or a sapling bent down and held as shown in ,fig4 #bbd4 ,one of a number of schemes employed for holding the sapling in position is here shown4 ,select a spot a few feet from a sapling1 and there make an enclosure about twelve inches in diameter4 ,this should be made of twelve-inch sticks driven into the ground in a circle1 leaving an opening of about six inches on one side4 ,drive a stake into the ground on both sides of the entrance1 and cut a notch in the outer face of each about six inches above the ground 7see ,fig4 #bbe74 ,find a twig somewhat similar to the one in ,fig4 #bbf1 and1 after slipping it into the notches and baiting the prong1 fasten the noose and sapling to it4 ,with the trap thus set1 a slight pull on the bait dislodges the crosspiece1 and the sapling springs up1 jerking the animal into the air1 and causing its death almost instantly4 ,illustration3 ,,caught ,,at ,,last4 ,ranchers of the ,western plains and mountains are continually experiencing severe losses from the attacks of wolves and coyotes upon their live-stock1 and to rid themselves from the nightly raids of these animals requires unceasing warfare against them with traps4 ,but the wolf and coyote are very crafty fellows1 and extremely keen-scented1 so that even professional trappers have trouble in capturing them1 often resorting to every scheme they can devise without success4 ,steel traps are generally employed by the professional1 as they are less cumbersome and quicker to set than the home-made affairs4 ,the traps are handled with gloves1 as the touch of the bare hands would be instantly detected by the wary animals1 and1 after being placed in a circle around the bait1 are covered over with leaves and brush4 ,in order not to leave human footprints behind him1 the trapper often sets them while mounted upon horseback4 ,not long ago1 a trapper was hired by a rancher in ,new ,mexico to capture some ,loboe wolves which had been making serious raids upon the cattle1 and one of his experiences while working there was somewhat laughable1 though probably not seen in that way by all the parties concerned4 ,using a dead calf for bait1 the trapper dragged it to a selected spot1 and there surrounded it by eight or ten traps1 which he chained fast to stakes1 and carefully hid from view4 ,setting out to visit the traps as usual1 on the following morning1 he mounted a knoll from which he could see the location of the bait1 and there plainly made out that a number of his traps had been sprung and were occupied4 ,but upon reaching the spot1 his surprise and disgust can be imagined when he found a dog in one trap and a bad-tempered ,indian held fast by the clutches of three others4 ,after releasing the captives1 the trapper gathered from the ,indian's half-broken ,english that he had been riding by on the previous night1 and his dog had wandered from the trail and sprung a trap4 ,he had then dismounted to release the animal1 but had not taken more than half a dozen steps before his foot became clutched in a trap1 the force of which threw him forward1 and1 in trying to break his fall with his outstretched hands1 each became securely clutched in traps4 ,fortunately no wolves made their appearance1 and the couple were unharmed2 but the ,indian no doubt spent a sleepless and uncomfortable night in the position he was forced to occupy4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,toy ,,guns1 ,,targets1 ,,and ,,bows ,,and ,,arrows ,illustration3 ,boys at ,target ,practise ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bbg-bcj4--;,examples of ,ancient ,guns4 ,some of the old war engines used in ,europe before the introduction of gunpowder were most ingeniously contrived1 and were wonderfully effective1 considering that their projective force was obtained by means of springs and levers4 ,it is hard to find many good examples1 as authorities have badly confused them1 but the writer has been fortunate in securing drawings of what he believes to be pure types of the most commonly used guns4 ,these are reproduced on page #bcj1 believing that the average boy will be interested to see the kind of weapons that were employed in warfare centuries ago4 ,with a little study1 the working of these guns will be clearly understood without further explanation than what is given upon the drawings4 ,the catapult 7,fig4 #bbg7 and the trebuchet 7,fig4 #bbh7 were used for storming fortifications1 and each hurled large stones4 ,the trebuchet was a much later invented machine than the catapult1 and1 being built on a much larger scale1 was more powerful4 ,it is claimed that trebuchets were often built large enough to hurl carcasses of horses into an enemy's fortifications4 ,the ballista 7,fig4 #bbi7 was in reality a large cross-bow1 built to shoot long1 heavy bolts or arrows4 ,the illustration shows a form mounted upon wheels for field service4 ,the cross-bow 7,fig4 #bcj7 was a weapon used by the foot-soldiers of a number of ,european countries4 ,it was in use in ,england for some time1 but1 on account of the terrible wounds inflicted by its short barbed arrows1 was finally forbidden and superseded by the long-bow4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bca-bcc4--;,a ,cross-bow4 ,some ideas for the making of toy shot-guns and pistols1 worked by springs and levers much the same as the ancient guns1 will be appreciated by the boy who is denied the use of firearms4 ,the schemes illustrated and described on the following pages will be found easy to carry out1 and such as will furnish enjoyment for many a day in the woods or back-yard4 ,figure #bca shows a new idea for ,a ,cross-bow4--,the stock for this should be cut out of a tongued-and-grooved board1 with the groove running along the top1 and a mortise should be made at ,a in which to set the trigger4 ,this mortise should be about two inches long and as wide as the thickness of the board will permit1 and is made by boring a couple of holes through the stock at this point1 and cutting out the wood between with a chisel4 ,select a strong barrel-hoop for the bow1 and fasten it at its centre in a hole cut for it at ,b1 driving a nail into it at ,c4 ,the trigger should be made similar to ,d in ,fig4 #bcb4 ,cut block ,e out of a piece of tongued board1 leaving the tongue to fit the groove in the gunstock4 ,notch the bottom to fit over ,d 7see ,fig4 #bcc74 ,place a tack in each side of the block1 and run cords from them to the end of the bow4 ,these cords must be of such a length that the bow will bend almost to its limit when block ,e is placed over the trigger4 ,a heavy rubber band should be attached to the lower end of the trigger1 and to a tack at ,f4 ,this must be strong enough to cock the trigger4 ,the cross-bow will shoot either pebbles or arrows1 but the latter are the most satisfactory4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bcd4--,shingle ,arrows for ,cross-bow4 ,shingle ,arrows are very good1 as they shoot straight1 and are so quickly made as to be easily replaced by a fresh lot when lost or broken4 ,mark them out as shown in ,fig4 #bcd1 with the head at the thick edge of the shingle and the tail at the thin edge1 and cut them out with your jack-knife4 ,the head and tail are made flat on one side1 so as to lie flat in the groove of the gun4 ,a ,toy ,pistol can also be made out of a tongued-and-grooved board4 ,some such shape as shown in ,fig4 #bce should first be drawn upon the board1 with the groove extending along the top4 ,cut this out with your jack-knife1 and make a mortise for the trigger4 ,cut the trigger similar to ,fig4 #bcf1 fastening it in place with a brad driven through it at ,a4 ,it will be noticed that the trigger is notched at both ends4 ,these notches are for a rubber band1 which should be stretched from the upper notch of the trigger1 over the muzzle1 and around to the lower notch1 as shown in the drawing4 ,the rubber band lies in the groove in the top of the pistol4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bce-bcg4--;,a ,toy ,pistol4 ,the ,bullets for this pistol consist of pieces of cardboard cut into small squares4 ,to load the pistol1 slip one of the squares through the rubber band as shown in ,fig4 #bcg1 so that it rests on top of the groove1 as shown in ,fig4 #bce4 ,upon pulling the trigger the bullet will shoot out of its position1 and though naturally one might think the loop of the rubber band would catch the card1 it is not the case4 ,the card frees itself and travels in a straight line in the direction in which the pistol is aimed4 ,it is advisable to keep this pistol out of range of your companions' faces4 ,a ,shot-gun can be made on the same scheme as the pistol1 by cutting a stock the size of that used for the cross-bow 7,fig4 #bca71 and fastening several rubber bands together to extend around the added length4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bch4 ,an ,elastic ,sling made with a wire framework1 as shown in ,fig4 #bch1 is an improvement over the one made out of a tree crotch1 as it is not easily broken4 ,about ,no4 #ab wire1 which is the thickness of eight-penny nails1 should be bought for this4 ,with a pair of pincers1 bend it into the shape shown in the drawing1 with loops at ,a and ,b4 ,wrap the handle with cord1 and attach strong rubber bands to ,a and ,b1 with a piece of shoe leather or kid glove set in between1 at ,c4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bci4--;,a ,barrel-hoop ,target4 ,a most satisfactory scheme for ,a ,boy's ,target is shown in ,fig4 #bci4 ,it consists of a barrel-hoop1 fastened by means of staples to a wooden platform1 as shown in the illustration4 ,pack the inside of the hoop with earth which has been moistened sufficiently to make it hold together1 and place a piece of paper over it1 pasting it to the edges of the hoop4 ,the paper will be stretched as tight as a drumhead when dry4 ,five rings should then be painted upon it1 as shown in the illustration4 ,fasten screw-eyes in the top of the platform1 and hang the target by these wherever you wish to use it4 ,by preparing several sheets of paper1 a fresh piece may be pasted over the hoop after one has been filled with holes4 ,the earth will prevent the paper from splitting1 and will be soft enough for the end of an arrow to stick into4 ,should the earth become too dry1 it may be moistened each time a new paper is put in place4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bdj4--;,a ,simpler ,target4 ,a ,simpler ,target1 and a scheme which will answer a boy's purpose1 if he does not care to go to the trouble of making the hoop target1 is shown in ,fig4 #bdj4 ,a circular piece of cardboard1 with five rings painted upon it1 is tacked to the end of a broom-handle1 and this is stuck into the ground4 ,points are ,scored in target shooting as follows3 ,bull's-eye #i points2 second ring1 #g points2 third ring1 #e points2 fourth ring1 #c points2 fifth1 or outside ring1 #a point4 ,the ,bow and ,arrow is always popular with boys who are forbidden the use of guns4 ,authorities claim that the best materials from which to make bows are mulberry1 sassafras1 ,southern cedar1 black locust1 black walnut1 apple1 and slippery elm1 in the order named2 but if a boy selects what appears to be a good sound piece of wood1 with straight grain1 he has something which will suit the purpose4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bda4--;,a ,boy's ,bow4 ,the ,length of the ,bow should be about the height of the person using it4 ,figure #bda shows a five-foot bow1 with the other proportions such as are on makes to be found in the stores4 ,cut your piece of wood five feet long1 and1 after placing it in the bench-vise1 shape it down with a draw-knife or plane until it is one inch wide by one-half inch thick at the handle and three-quarters of an inch wide by one-quarter inch thick at the ends4 ,the bow can be made round on the inside or face toward the archer1 and flat on the outside or face away from the archer1 or the two faces may be made round4 ,cut a notch in the bow two inches from each end1 as shown in the illustration1 from which to attach ,the ,bow-string4--,a cord with as little elasticity as possible should be used for this4 ,if you care to spend the money for it1 a good cotton string can be purchased from a dealer in archery goods for twenty-five cents4 ,with a home-made bow-string1 a loop should be made in one end and bound with thread1 as shown in ,fig4 #bdb4 ,slip the loop over the upper notch1 bend the bow until the centre of the string is about five inches away from the handle1 and attach the loose end to the lower notch by means of a slip-knot similar to that shown in ,fig4 #bdc4 ,the bow should be sand-papered until smooth1 and thoroughly oiled with linseed-oil4 ,a piece of velvet about three inches wide should be glued about the centre for a handle4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bdb4 ,bow-string ,ends4 ,,fig4 #bdc4 ,for a five-foot bow1 cut ,the ,arrow-shafts twenty-four inches long and one-quarter inch thick4 ,whittle them out of straight-grained strips of wood1 round them nicely1 and cut a notch in the ends large enough to fit over the bow-strings4 ,it is not supposed that boys would care ,to ,prepare ,arrow-heads of stone or bone as the ,indians did1 for there are other schemes that are simpler to carry out4 ,if the wood is reasonably hard1 the heads can be cut on the ends of the shaft1 as shown in ,fig4 #bdd4 ,for target practice1 a wire nail driven into the end of the shaft1 as shown in ,fig4 #bde1 with the head of the nail filed off and pointed1 has proven very good1 and a thick piece of zinc or lead1 cut the shape of ,a 7,fig4 #bdf7 and set into a slot cut in the end of the shaft1 with cord bound around the shaft to hold the metal in place1 makes another excellent head4 ,the metal points should be used only for target practice1 and then with proper care1 to prevent injury to yourself or companions4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bdd-bdf4--,schemes for ,arrow-heads4 ,feathering is the next operation4 ,turkey or goose feathers are generally used1 but the former is considered the better of the two4 ,strip off the broader side of the vane of three feathers1 and glue them to the shaft one and one-quarter inches from the notch1 spacing them equidistant from one another4 ,one feather should be placed at right angles to the notch4 ,this is known as the cock-feather1 and should always point away from the bow when the arrow is shot4 ,a ,quiver of some sort should be provided1 large enough to carry a dozen or more arrows1 and this should be three inches shorter than the arrows1 so that their ends will project above the top4 ,it may be made out of any thick cloth1 as shown in ,fig4 #bdg4 ,a circular piece of cardboard is placed in the bottom to which the cloth is sewed1 and a piece of heavy wire1 bent into a circle1 fits in the top to keep the bag open4 ,the quiver should hang on your right side1 being suspended by means of a cloth strap long enough to pass over the left shoulder4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bdg4--;,a ,quiver4 ,to ,shoot with the bow1 take the position shown in ,fig4 #bdh1 with both feet flat upon the ground1 and the heels in line with the target4 ,hold the handle of the bow in the left hand and place an arrow on the left side of the bow1 slipping the bow-string into the notch and letting the head of the arrow rest upon your left hand4 ,catch the bow-string with the first three fingers of your right hand1 so that the end of the arrow comes between the first and second fingers1 and draw the string until the head of the arrow rests upon the left hand2 then aim quickly and let go of the arrow4 ,by always taking the same hold upon your bow and arrow1 you will soon be able to know just where the arrow is going to strike4 ,the boy who has had the hobby of collecting ,indian arrow-heads has no doubt often wondered how they were made1 and also how the bows and arrows were prepared4 ,the ways in which all uncivilized people do things is interesting1 and especially when it is remembered that they had but raw materials with which to work and only such tools as they could make out of stone4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bdh4--;,correct ,position for ,shooting4 ,the ,indian's ,bow was made of different woods1 and1 though it varied in shape and size1 was generally about forty inches in length1 so as to be conveniently carried and handled on horseback4 ,the bow-string consisted generally of a deer sinew or a strand of deer-skin rolled or twisted1 and this was strung very tightly from a notch cut on one end of the bow to a notch on the opposite end4 ,now1 while an ,indian generally made the greater part of his weapons1 there was always a warrior in the tribe who was skilled in the art of arrow-making1 and1 as the preparation required far more care than the bow1 he was intrusted with this work4 ,the arrow-shaft was made of various woods1 reeds being often used1 as they were straight and required but little cutting4 ,their lengths depended largely upon that of the bows4 ,for the feathering of the shafts1 wild turkey feathers were considered best and used when they could be had1 and these were attached to the shaft with deer sinews4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bdi4--,some ,specimens of ,indian ,arrow-heads4 ,a great variety of materials were used for arrow-heads1 among which flint1 obsidian1 horn of deer1 claws of eagles1 and the spurs of wild turkey-cocks may be mentioned4 ,many of these are being picked up annually in the mountains and on the plains1 which were once the battle-fields and hunting-grounds of the redmen1 and in excavating for building purposes they are frequently found4 ,a few specimens of stone heads showing a variety of the shapes and sizes used will be found in ,fig4 #bdi4 ,the preparation of these heads was usually left to the old men who were unfit for any other work4 ,in making the flint head1 the ,indian made a loop in a piece of buckskin which had been thoroughly wet in cold water1 and then taking a piece of flint1 heated it1 and with the strip of buckskin chipped off what was not wanted until the head was of the correct shape and size4 ,as hornstone is more brittle than quartz1 the heads made from that material were broken and shaped by striking them against the latter4 ,the stone heads were attached to the shaft by means of sinews1 generally from deer4 ,for hunting small birds1 the ,indians often made wooden arrow-heads1 hardening the wood by fire after shaping it4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,an ,,outdoor ,,gymnasium ,illustration3 ,boys ,pole ,vaulting and ,shot ,putting4 ,with a little work1 and a small outlay of money chiefly for two-by-fours1 and such boards as are specified in this chapter1 a boy1 or club of boys1 can construct and set up all the necessary apparatus for an outdoor gymnasium4 ,it is true a great many city back-yards are much too small to accommodate all of the apparatus2 but there is generally a vacant lot in the neighborhood which you can obtain permission to use4 ,those of you boys who are fortunate enough to spend the summer months in the country have splendid opportunities for making a complete gym and should not miss the chance to fit one up4 ,a ,horizontal ,bar4--,a well-made horizontal bar requires a firm standard which will not sway when swung upon4 ,this is best attained by fastening at least one upright to the side of the barn1 the fence1 or some other stationary object4 ,it is also very important to secure a strong bar free from knots and cracks4 ,curtain-poles are frequently used by boys1 but at great risk1 as there may be a dangerous knot lurking beneath the highly polished surface that will break at a critical moment and cause them serious injuries4 ,a four-foot hickory or ash bar can be bought from a dealer in sporting goods for about a dollar and a half1 but it will cost much less to have a bar turned to the right shape and size at a planing mill4 ,the diameter of the pole should be an inch and one-half1 and the ends should be two inches square 7see ,fig4 #bej74 ,for the uprights procure two two-by-sixes nine feet long4 ,mark off a square equal in size to the end of the bar1 six inches from one end of each1 and cut out the wood with an auger4 ,with a chisel trim the holes square and large enough for the bar to slip through4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bej-bea4--,the ,horizontal ,bar4 ,sink the lower ends of the uprights twelve inches into the ground1 ,a against the stationary object1 whatever it may be1 and ,b directly in front1 at a distance equal to the length of the bar4 ,spike ,a to the abutting surface1 and brace the base of ,b with two two-by-fours to make it solid 7see ,fig4 #bea74 ,the tops of the braces should be mitred against ,b1 and the bottoms spiked to stakes driven into the ground1 as shown at ,c4 ,to make it possible to adjust the bar to different heights1 holes may be cut in the uprights every foot or so1 in which case be careful to locate the holes exactly opposite one another4 ,it is well to have an old mattress beneath the horizontal bar as a guard against injury in case of a fall4 ,this also makes a splendid ,tumbling ,mat for practising rolls1 hand-springs1 and wrestling4 ,if a mattress cannot be obtained1 a few potato sacks stuffed with shavings or excelsior will answer the purpose4 ,the most satisfactory scheme for making a pair of ,parallel ,bars is shown in ,fig4 #beb4 ,to acquire the necessary firmness without putting in bracing that would interfere with the performer1 the base of the apparatus should be set underground1 as indicated by the dotted lines in the illustration4 ,in height the parallel bars should be about four feet six inches1 in length seven feet six inches1 and in width twenty inches between the bars4 ,this makes the uprights ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 and ,d six feet long1 allowing eighteen inches to project into the ground4 ,prepare one end of each as shown in ,fig4 #bec1 notching it for the bar to fit in and cutting off the corner4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #beb4--,the ,parallel ,bars4 ,when this has been done1 cut four two-by-fours twenty-eight inches long4 ,then lay the uprights ,a and ,b on the ground twenty inches apart1 and spike two of the two-by-fours to them at ,g and ,h 7see ,fig4 #bed74 ,uprights ,c and ,d should be similarly fastened together with the other two-by-fours at ,i and ,j 7see ,fig4 #beb74 ,when these frames have been made1 set them upon their bases six feet apart1 and spike the two-by-fours ,k and ,l to the uprights in the places shown in ,fig4 #beb1 with braces set between them and the pieces ,h and ,j1 at ,m1 ,n1 ,o1 ,p 7see ,figs4 #beb and #bee74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bef4--,section of ,bar4 ,,fig4 #bec4--;,dress ,ends of ,uprights like this4 ,,fig4 #bed4 ,,fig4 #bee4--;,corner ,bracing4 ,,figs4 #bec-bef4--;,details of ,parallel ,bars4 ,the bars should be seven feet six inches in length1 and cut out of ,georgia pine two-by-fours4 ,figures #beb and #bef show how these should be dressed1 the tops rounded to fit the hands and the ends curved4 ,first roughly shape them with the draw-knife1 then smooth up with the plane1 and finally scrape and rub them down with sand-paper until perfectly smooth4 ,when the bars have been prepared1 slip them into the notches cut in the uprights1 and spike them in place4 ,with the constructive work done1 it is only necessary to bury the base to complete the apparatus4 ,excavate a trench eighteen inches deep1 and level off the bottom4 ,then lower the framework and1 after determining that the bars are level1 fill in the earth1 packing it well against the uprights and braces4 ,boards ,e and ,f should be laid across the top of ,g and ,i1 and spiked in place4 ,the ,punching-bag ,platform1 illustrated by ,fig4 #beg1 should be made thirty inches square and suspended from the shed or a wall4 ,nail a thirty-inch piece of two-by-four to the wall1 two feet above the height at which the platform is to be placed1 as at ,a in the drawing1 and nail another on a level with the top of the platform1 as shown at ,b4 ,fasten the platform boards together with battens1 using nails long enough to clinch on top of the upper face1 and nail the two boards ,c and ,d to the edges1 mitring the edges as in the figure4 ,then lift the platform to the desired height1 and fasten the ends of ,c and ,d to the ends of ,a4 ,also nail the bottom of the platform to the under side of ,b4 ,a swivel such as shown in ,fig4 #beh can be bought for forty or fifty cents1 and one of these should be screwed to the bottom of the platform1 from which to suspend the punching-bag4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #beg4--;,a ,punching-bag ,platform4 ,a ,pair of ,jump ,standards are made out of two two-by-fours about eight feet long4 ,after planing them smooth on all sides1 measure off two feet from one end of each1 and mark off the remaining six feet in inches1 as shown in ,fig4 #bei4 ,after squaring these divisions across the poles with your try-square1 bore holes three-eighths of an inch in diameter through the poles at each division4 ,then1 with a small brush and black paint1 mark off each foot with a band extending around the pole1 each half foot with a narrower band1 and each inch with a short line1 as shown in the drawings4 ,letter the foot divisions #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bfb4 ,,fig4 #bfj4 ,,fig4 #bfa4 ,,fig4 #bei4--,the ,jump ,standards completed4 ,,figs4 #bei-bfb4--;,details of ,jump ,standards4 ,when both standards have been finished1 bury them in the ground to a depth of thirteen inches1 eight feet apart4 ,cut two wooden pegs similar to ,fig4 #bfa to fit the holes1 and procure a nine-foot pine or hickory pole one inch thick for a cross-bar 7see ,fig4 #bfj74 ,when the bar is placed upon the pegs1 the distance from its top to the ground should correspond with the figure on the upright4 ,if not the same1 raise or lower the uprights until the error is corrected4 ,with a pair of these standards there is no danger of injury by tripping over the bar1 as the latter will fall off with the slightest knock4 ,there is one disadvantage in using a stick1 however1 it being easily broken if jumped upon4 ,because of this1 a rope with a weight attached to each end1 as shown in ,fig4 #bfb is often substituted4 ,the ends of the rope are hung over the pegs in such a way that it will slip off the pegs when struck4 ,the weights should be just heavy enough to prevent the rope from sagging in the centre4 ,a ,vaulting ,pole should be made of a strong wood1 free from knots and other defects4 ,the regulation pole is made of selected spruce1 its length varying from eight to fourteen feet4 ,if you make your own pole1 be careful to plane off all splinters and irregularities1 making it round and smooth1 and point one end so it will stick into the ground and prevent slipping4 ,although seldom used in an outdoor gymnasium1 ,a ,spring-board is excellent for practising the high and broad jumps1 and is a piece of apparatus with which a great deal of fun may be had4 ,figure #bfc shows a scheme for a spring-board that is easy to make4 ,first cut three pieces of two-by-four two feet long1 lay them on the ground parallel to each other eighteen inches apart1 and construct a platform four feet long by two feet wide on top of them4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bfc4--;,a ,spring-board4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bfd4 ,cut another two-by-four two feet long1 taper it as shown in ,fig4 #bfd1 making it two inches thick on one edge and an inch and a quarter on the other1 and nail it to one end of the platform4 ,secure a log two feet long 7a cedar fence post will do very nicely71 and fasten it across the centre of the platform parallel to the two-by-fours4 ,the upper portion of the spring-board should be made of elastic boards1 preferably ash4 ,construct a second platform six inches longer than the first1 leaving about one-half inch between the boards1 and battening the pieces together at ,a and ,b 7see ,fig4 #bfc74 ,nail the battens securely in place1 using nails of sufficient length to allow clinching on the under face of the battens4 ,the clinching will prevent the boards from springing apart4 ,this platform should be fastened to the first1 with the end which has not been battened secured to the two-by-four at ,c4 ,the best method of fastening the ends of these boards is with bolts long enough to extend through the two platforms and project an inch or more below the bottom two-by-four 7see illustration74 ,large washers should be placed under the heads of the bolts to prevent the latter from cutting through the boards4 ,the upper platform should not be nailed to the log1 but merely held to it by straps passed diagonally around the outside boards and log1 as shown in the illustration4 ,set the spring-board upon the spot you wish to use it1 and bank up the earth behind it until a gradual slope is made from the ground to the top4 ,if any difficulty is experienced in keeping the spring-board in place1 it may be overcome by driving stakes into the ground around the sides of the lower platform4 ,after setting up your gymnasium apparatus1 oil the bars of the horizontal bar and parallel bars with boiled linseed-oil1 and paint all the rest of the wood to keep it in good condition4 ,hurdles should be lightly constructed1 so as to be easily knocked over should a hurdler trip upon them4 ,they are made similar to carpenter horses1 directions for the making of which are given in ,chapter ,i4 ,their height will depend upon the skill of the hurdler4 ,if the field is large enough1 ,a ,running ,track can be made around it1 by levelling off the ground1 removing all stones and irregularities in its path1 and banking up the corners to enable the runner to turn the curves readily4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bfe4 ,for ,short ,sprints the most common method of starting is upon all fours1 as illustrated in ,fig4 #bfe4 ,make a depression in the ground for the toe of the rear foot to press against in starting off4 ,for ,broad ,jumping1 a block of wood two feet long should be sunk into the ground1 as a mark from which to leap4 ,it is a good plan to organize ,an ,athletic ,club among the boys of the neighborhood with which to raise money necessary to buy the material for apparatus1 and ,athletic ,meets may be held among the members and with other clubs4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,a ,,back-,,yard ,,circus ,illustration3 ,the ,boy's ,circus4 ,shortly after the founding of ,rome1 a large building was built within which to hold commemorations of ,roman victories and anniversaries1 with chariot races1 bull-fights1 gladiatorial contests1 and athletic games2 and from this building1 which was called the circus1 this class of entertainment derived its name4 ,to keep up with the times1 the circus has had to profit by every scientific discovery1 adding continuously to its line of attractions1 until now it is necessary for a show to produce a new1 sensational1 and hair-raising feat each season in order to keep in the favor of the public and compete with others in the field4 ,the tight-rope walkers1 bare-back riders1 and trapeze performers were not long ago the main attractions of a circus1 but these do not seem nearly as remarkable now when compared with such daring feats as looping-the-loop or looping-the-gap on a bicycle1 riding down an incline on a single wheel1 or diving from the peak of the tent into a small tank not more than six feet square1 to be seen at the present day4 ,when a circus came to town1 it seemed but natural for the boys of our neighborhood to club together and arrange a performance on a small scale1 but as nearly like that of the professionals as possible4 ,a back-yard was transformed into training quarters1 and here we worked hard for several days before the show1 imitating as best we could the stunts of the circus performers4 ,because one fellow could walk on his hands1 and turn hand-springs1 besides being the owner of a pair of tights1 he naturally became the chief attraction2 another had a pair of riding boots1 so he was chosen ring master2 a third made a bargain with his sister to cut him out a cheese-cloth costume1 and was chosen to take the part of a clown1--and in this way each boy helped along the performance by contributing his best efforts4 ,the most successful shows were those in which a week or more was spent in rehearsing the performance and getting things in shape4 ,tickets and programmes were neatly printed by one of the members who owned a press1 and the former were distributed among the boys and their friends to sell4 ,the first thing to do in preparing a yard for a circus1 is to ,mark out a ,ring in the centre1 with a diameter as large as the yard will permit4 ,this circle may be drawn on the same principle as that shown in ,fig4 #bja1 ,chapter ,,xv1 using a rope at either end of which a stake has been attached4 ,after describing the circle1 secure several six-inch boards sufficiently limber to enable you to bend them around the circle1 and fasten them in place by means of stakes driven into the ground outside of the boards4 ,the enclosed space should then be filled in with several inches of shavings1 which you can procure from a carpenter if you have not enough in your own workshop4 ,good ,circus ,seats can be made out of boxes eighteen or twenty inches high1 with planks laid across their tops4 ,to give the back-yard a real circus appearance1 we always thought it necessary not only to have a ring but also a tent over it and the grandstand1 so we gathered together all the old awnings1 tents1 and carriage covers we could scrape up1 and fastening these together with pins or heavy thread made ,a ,large ,tent4--,a ten-foot pole was sunk into the ground in the centre of the ring1 and ropes were run from the top of this to the fence1 after which the tent was fastened to the ropes and propped with poles wherever any sagging occurred4 ,bright colored cheese-cloth was used ,in decorating the ,tent1 and for evening performances ,japanese lanterns were hung about the yard4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bfg4--;,halving4 ,,fig4 #bff4--,ticket ,office and ,turnstile4 ,a ,ticket ,office should be built at the entrance to the yard4 ,this can be made out of two boxes1 one set on top of the other1 as shown in ,fig4 #bff4 ,cut an opening fifteen inches square in the front for a window1 round the top1 and make a guard of wooden strips to fit it4 ,cut a slot in the counter1 fastening a box beneath it in which to drop tickets1 and for a cash drawer fasten strips to the under side of the counter1 as shown in ,fig4 #bff1 so that a cigar-box will slide upon them4 ,to the top of the ticket office fasten a board cut the shape shown in the illustration1 and print the word ,tickets upon it4 ,these letters may be illuminated for an evening performance by boring holes through them and placing candles behind 7see ,fig4 #bff74 ,a ,turnstile should be made in front of the ticket office1 so that all are obliged to pay their admission fee and pass through the turnstile before entering the tent 7see ,fig4 #bff2 also illustration opposite page #bfh74 ,the stile is made with two sticks about forty inches long fastened together at their centres1 as shown in ,fig4 #bfg4 ,this joint1 known as ,halving1 consists in cutting away one-half the thickness and the width of each piece so that the remaining portions fit together flush4 ,after nailing the pieces together1 bore a quarter-inch hole through the centre1 and screw the crosspiece at this point to the top of a piece of two-by-four driven into the ground in front of the ticket office4 ,the crosspiece should now revolve with the screw as an axis4 ,the turnstile should1 of course1 have a lock1 and an arrangement similar to that shown in ,fig4 #bff answers the purpose4 ,cut a slot in the front of the lower box on a level with the top of the stile for the arms to run through 7see illustration71 and then prepare four blocks1 such as ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 and ,d in ,fig4 #bfh4 ,screw one end of ,b and ,c to the ends of ,a and fasten block ,d between the other ends of ,b and ,c1 after which nail block ,a to the under side of the counter in the position shown in ,fig4 #bff4 ,prepare a lever such as is shown in ,fig4 #bfi1 cut a mortise in the top of the counter for it to fit in 7see ,fig4 #bff71 and pivot it to the side of the upper box4 ,place a screw-eye in the end of the lever and another in ,d1 and connect the two with a piece of cord4 ,figure #bff shows an arm of the turnstile held by the lock1 which is released by pushing back the lever4 ,a railing should be built in front of the turnstile to block the passage on that side4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bfh4--,lock4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bfi4--,lever4 ,the ,side ,show should be placed in one corner of the yard4 ,the cages can be made out of boxes with either slats or wire-mesh fastened over the front1 and the top or side hinged in place for a door4 ,the animal performers of the circus should occupy these cages before the show commences1 and to make the menagerie as large as possible1 a few cages may be filled with pets borrowed for the occasion4 ,several closed boxes should be placed alongside of the cages1 and lettered ,lion1 ,tiger1 or the names of some such ferocious animals as these1 and the public should be informed that for their safety the management thought it best not to place these specimens on exhibition4 ,animated ,animals generally have a place in every circus1 and help out the clowns in their end of the performance4 ,the animals are not difficult for handy boys to make1 so several should be manufactured for your show4 ,if you can get your mother or sister to do the necessary sewing1 it would be well to secure her help4 ,the ,elephant is one of the oldest forms of animated animals1 and is at the same time one of the most popular4 ,four or five yards of gray cambric should be purchased for its covering4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bgj-bga4--,the ,elephant4 ,the cloth should be cut out like the pattern shown in ,fig4 #bgj1 the correct measurements being secured from two boys who have taken the position shown in ,fig4 #bga4 ,fold the cloth along the centre and then sew the dotted lines ,,aa and ,,bb together4 ,paper cornucopi form the tusks1 and the ears are made of gray cambric cut the shape shown in ,fig4 #bga1 and lined with heavy wrapping-paper to make them stiff4 ,two boys are required for the elephant4 ,these must bend forward1 as shown in ,fig4 #bga4 ,the rear boy places one hand upon the front boy's back and wags the tail with the other1 while the front boy runs one hand through the elephant's trunk and keeps it in motion4 ,fasten potato sacks on to your legs to make them as large as possible4 ,the ,giraffe is one of the rarest of animals1 and very few are to be found in captivity4 ,in fact1 a large circus claims there is only one specimen in this country1 outside of a herd in their possession4 ,so if you make a giraffe1 which is not difficult to do1 you will have a feature in your show that none but the very largest combines can afford4 ,the animal's head should be drawn the shape of ,fig4 #bgb on a board1 and then cut out with the aid of a saw and draw-knife4 ,the jaw1 ears1 and horns should be cut out separately1 the shape of ,figs4 #bgc1 #bgd1 and #bge4 ,bore two holes in the head at ,a1 slanting them toward one another1 and fit in them the pegs cut for the horns4 ,the jaw should be pivoted with a small nail at ,b on one side of the head1 and an ear should be likewise fastened at ,c on each side of the head4 ,when these portions of the giraffe's anatomy have been put in place1 stretch a rubber band from a tack driven in the top of the jaw to another tack driven into the neck 7see ,fig4 #bgb71 and attach another rubber band similarly to each of the ears4 ,these rubber bands will act as springs1 causing the ears to wag and the jaw to open and close when the giraffe moves his head4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bgb-bgf4--;,details of ,giraffe4 ,paint the head1 making the features as nearly like those of a giraffe as possible1 and1 when the paint is dry1 mount the head on the end of a six-foot pole4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bgg4--,the ,giraffe's ,tail4 ,the covering for the body is made out of a large piece of tan cloth with brown spots marked upon it1 as shown in ,fig4 #bgf4 ,it is not necessary to give a pattern for this1 as the illustration clearly shows how it should fit over the two boys who form the body1 and hang from the headpiece4 ,the neck should be stuffed out with excelsior4 ,a short and a long stick should be nailed together1 as shown in ,fig4 #bgg1 and cloth should be sewed to the end of the short stick for the animal's tail4 ,stuff the tail with excelsior and fasten unravelled rope to the end1 as shown in the drawings4 ,the long stick should be held by the boy who forms the rear of the animal1 so that by means of it he can manipulate the tail 7see ,fig4 #bgf74 ,as shown by the dotted lines in ,fig4 #bgf1 the boy in the front portion of the animal holds the end of the pole supporting the animal's head4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bgh4--,the ,wild ,man and the ,wild ,horse4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bgi4--;,framework of ,wild ,horse4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bhj-bhb4 ,an animated animal very often brought into a circus ring is the two-legged ,wild ,horse1 owned by the ,wild ,man of ,borneo4 ,this breed of horse is shown in ,fig4 #bgh4 ,a framework is necessary for the body1 and this is best made as shown in ,fig4 #bgi4 ,cut two four-foot strips for the side-pieces1 fasten them two feet apart1 with a barrel-hoop at either end and arch barrel-hoops over the back1 as shown in the drawing4 ,the head 7,fig4 #bhj7 is made in the same manner as that of the giraffe1 the jaws and the ears 7,figs4 #bha and #bhb7 being cut out separately and pivoted in place similarly to those of the giraffe4 ,paint the face1 marking the eyes and nostrils1 and make a mane and tail of unravelled rope4 ,having finished the head1 mount it upon a short stick and fasten this to a crosspiece set in the framework1 as shown in ,fig4 #bgi1 bracing it with an upright fastened to another crosspiece4 ,in fastening the various pieces of the framework together1 it is well not only to use long enough nails to clinch1 but also to bind each joint with wire or cord to make it stiff4 ,purchase brown or black cambric for covering the framework4 ,tack it to the wooden strips1 leaving an opening in the top for the rider to stand in1 and allow it to hang to the ground as shown in the illustration1 so as to conceal the feet of the rider4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bhc4--;,jocko4 ,the ,wild ,man should wear an old slouch hat and a hunting jacket1 and should have a pair of false legs fastened to him1 so that while his own are inside the framework1 as shown by the dotted lines in ,fig4 #bgh1 they appear to be astride4 ,to make the false legs1 cut off the legs of an old pair of long trousers1 stuff them with excelsior1 and fasten a pair of shoes to the ends4 ,these legs should be fastened to the hips of the rider4 ,the framework should be held to the rider by means of ropes tied to the side strips1 as shown in ,fig4 #bgi4 ,these should be long enough to cross the boy's shoulders in the same way as a pair of suspenders4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bhd4--;,jocko's ,hat4 ,a ,monkey's ,make-up is shown in ,fig4 #bhc4 ,the boy who is most apt at making a monkey of himself should be selected to take the part of this animal4 ,in the first place he requires a red suit1 which may be made quickly by sewing red cloth over an old coat and a pair of trousers4 ,cover the legs with a pair of tan stockings1 and slip the feet into a pair of large gloves4 ,the face and hands should be colored1 and for this purpose buy some brown grease paint4 ,in rubbing the paint over the face1 leave a circle of white around the eyes and mouth1 and make a brown mark each side of the mouth to give it a broadened effect4 ,a tight-fitting cap should be made of cloth as nearly the shade of the brown paint as possible1 to hide the hair4 ,figure #bhd shows the monkey's hat1 consisting of a tomato-can covered with red cloth1 which is fastened around the monkey's chin by means of an elastic cord4 ,a piece of rope can be fastened beneath the coat for a tail4 ,the ,ring ,master should wear a high silk hat1 a stand-up collar1 and a pair of boots1 besides being supplied with a long whip4 ,the ,clown's ,suit is best made out of red and yellow cheese-cloth1 this material being about as cheap as can be bought for the purpose4 ,the suit consists of a pair of baggy trousers or bloomers1 with elastic around the waist and ankles1 a loose coat with large buttons1 a collar1 a skullcap1 and a hat4 ,make the buttons out of red cheese-cloth and stuff them with cotton4 ,the coat may be made of red and the trousers of yellow cheese-cloth1 or both may be made of yellow with red polka dots sewed on to them1 as shown in the illustration of his costume 7,fig4 #bhe74 ,the collar is made of white cloth1 lined with paper to make it stiff1 and should be pleated around the neck to form a ruffle4 ,a skull cap should be made out of white cloth to hide the hair4 ,make a peaked hat of stiff paper1 and cover it with red cheese-cloth4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bhe4--,the ,clown's ,make-up4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,back-,,yard ,,circus4 ,when making up for a performance1 the clown should powder his face1 neck1 and hands with magnesia1 and draw expression marks upon his face with burnt cork1 as shown in ,fig4 #bhe4 ,the ,attendants for the elephant and giraffe should wear old bath robes or gowns1 and have turbans made by twisting a piece of red cheese-cloth about the head4 ,by visiting any circus and closely watching how things are managed1 it ought to be a simple matter to get enough ,ideas for a ,performance that can be carried out with the animals and performers described in this chapter4 ,the clown should1 of course1 have his usual supply of jokes1 which he can get out of the comic papers1 and should do his best to annoy the other performers4 ,he should make himself ,a ,slapper1 consisting of two sticks with a block slipped between at one end4 ,this will produce a great deal of laughter among the audience1 for when the slapper is struck against a performer the ends of the sticks strike together1 making a loud1 cracking noise1 and one would hardly believe that a stinging blow had not been dealt4 ,the clown attempts the tricks of the other performers1 but always fails or gets them very badly mixed4 ,a startling feat to be announced upon the programme will be ,looping the ,hoop on a ,giraffe4--,this stunt is performed by the elephant1 who is given a number of barrel-hoops1 which he tosses by means of his trunk over the giraffe's outstretched neck4 ,the elephant and giraffe should always be entered in a race1 which will prove exciting1 inasmuch as your specimens will be evenly matched4 ,the monkey may do almost anything and be amusing4 ,swinging upon a turning-pole1 teasing the animals1 boxing with the clown1 and climbing a rope1 are all his specialties4 ,then he should have ,a ,chariot within which to ride around the ring4 ,this can be made out of a soap-box1 as shown in ,fig4 #bhf4 ,cut down the sides1 as in the illustration1 attach two shafts to the bottom1 and mount it upon a couple of small wagon wheels4 ,when this has been done paint the wood a bright red1 and cut stars of different sizes out of gilt paper and glue them all over the outside4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bhf4--;,jocko's ,chariot4 ,the ring master acts as manager of the performance1 and should use his whip unsparingly upon the animals1 to force them into obedience4 ,if a boy can turn upon a turning-pole1 an apparatus such as is described in ,chapter ,,xviii may be set up outside of the ring4 ,before performances1 the entire circus--animals1 acrobats1 and showmen--should parade about the neighborhood in circus attire4 ,we always made the ,parades a feature of our circuses1 and found them not only great sport1 but the best kind of advertising4 ,the animal cages should be placed upon wagons decorated with flags4 ,head the procession with a couple of drummers1 and have two boys march in the rear carrying signs advertising the show4 ,the ,advertising ,signs may be painted with bluing upon large pieces of manila wrapping-paper1 and should be tacked on wooden stretchers mounted on poles4 ,illustration3 ,circus ,parade4 ,,chapter ,,xx ,,suggestions ,,for ,,fourth ,,of ,,july ,illustration3 ,boy ,startled by ,fire-cracker and ,lanterns on ,kite-string4 ,as most boys probably know1 the first ,fourth of ,july celebration took place in #agge1 following the signing of the ,declaration of ,independence in ,independence ,hall1 ,philadelphia4 ,when the old bell rang forth the result of the meeting of the ,continental ,congress1 citizens gathered in the streets and displayed their great joy by shouting1 beating drums1 and firing muskets4 ,the news spread very rapidly1 and great rejoicing reigned everywhere4 ,it soon became a custom to celebrate annually this famous event1 and it should be every boy's privilege to have a rollicking good time upon this day1 making as much noise as he pleases4 ,when the average boy has bought a few sky-rockets1 ,roman-candles1 and cannon-crackers1 for the ,fourth1 he generally finds1 to his sorrow1 that he has run out of pocket money4 ,it is then that he is very apt to want to try his hand at making pyrotechnics4 ,there are many publications which describe how amateurs may manufacture ,roman-candles1 sky-rockets1 nigger-chasers1 and such pieces1 but it is hoped that no boy will venture to carry out any such experiments1 for1 with the greatest of care1 unforeseen accidents will occur which may result disastrously to him4 ,at the same time1 there is no economy in it1 for the apparatus and materials will generally cost him more than to buy the fireworks ready made4 ,this is also true of colored lights1 for which there are many simple formul1 but none of which can be made up as cheaply as the powders can be bought already prepared4 ,there are1 however1 many things a boy can make for the ,fourth that are perfectly harmless1 such as fire-cracker cannons and home-made set-pieces1 besides different schemes for firing crackers and fireworks that he can carry out4 ,the suggestions offered on the following pages will be found interesting1 and they will probably suggest other ideas to the inventive boy4 ,the store toy cannon and cap-pistol are exceedingly dangerous for boys to use1 and were all cities to pass laws forbidding their sale1 as in the case of a great many of the larger cities1 thousands of young lives would be saved from the terrible accidents resulting annually from celebrating with these toys4 ,in ,fig4 #bhg is shown ,a ,fire-cracker ,cannon with which a boy can have a great deal of fun and at the same time with no danger of injury4 ,cut the two gun-stocks similar in shape to ,fig4 #bhh1 and the two wheels four inches in diameter 7,fig4 #bhi71 after which bore holes in the gun-stocks at ,a1 and in the centres of the wheels1 through which to run the axle4 ,procure a baking-powder can and make a couple of holes in the sides for the axle to run through 7,fig4 #bij71 and one in the bottom of the can the size of a fire-cracker fuse4 ,cut a conical piece of wood about two inches long and nail it to the outside of the can cover as shown in ,fig4 #bia4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bhg-bia4--;,a ,fire-cracker ,cannon4 ,when the various pieces have been thus prepared1 place them together as shown in ,fig4 #bhg1 and slip a piece of heavy wire through the holes made in them1 and bend over the ends of the wire to hold the wheels in place4 ,to fire the ,cannon1 place a cracker in the can with the fuse projecting through the hole in the bottom1 and fit the cover over the can4 ,then light the fuse4 ,the exploding cracker will force off the cover1 which is the projectile1 and hurl it a considerable distance in the direction the cannon has been pointed4 ,a ,toy ,mortar may be made similarly1 with the exception of the carriage or mortar-bed4 ,figures #bib and #bic show the details for this1 which is different from a regular mortar1 one end being enclosed for an ammunition box4 ,make a cover for the ammunition box to prevent sparks from igniting the packages of crackers1 using pieces of leather for hinges4 ,as shown in the section drawing 7,fig4 #bic71 the mortar-bed is mounted upon a small board1 being held in place by means of a short screw1 which makes it possible to swing the mortar around in any position desired4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bib-bic4--;,a ,fire-cracker ,mortar4 ,these cannons and mortars will furnish sport not only for the ,fourth1 but for any other day of the year1 as they can be used by a crowd of boys in ,mimic ,battles1 with paper soldiers4 ,the boys should divide into armies1 and construct their fortifications about twenty feet apart1 planting the guns upon the works and placing the paper soldiers behind4 ,all paper soldiers knocked over are out of the game1 and the side first completely killing the enemy's garrison is1 of course1 the winner of the day4 ,these battles are always very exciting1 especially toward the end1 when there are but a few warriors remaining4 ,in order that the projectiles may fit all the cans1 it is necessary to have them all of the same size4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bid4--;,another ,toy ,cannon4 ,another ,toy ,cannon that is simple to make is shown in ,fig4 #bid4 ,for this1 buy a short piece of glass tubing at a drug-store and have the druggist seal one end of it4 ,then secure a good-sized cork and cut a hole through the side large enough for the tube to run through 7see ,a in ,fig4 #bid74 ,cut out a pair of wooden wheels about three inches in diameter1 and fasten them to the ends of the cork with a pin or small nail4 ,make the cannon shafts four inches long1 point one end of each and stick them into the cork at ,b and ,c4 ,the open end of the tube should be at ,d and the sealed end at ,e4 ,to fire the ,cannon1 slip a match into the open end of the tube with the head toward ,e1 and hold a lighted match at the closed end4 ,as soon as the heat ignites the phosphorus1 the match will shoot out of the open end of the tube4 ,firing ,fireworks from ,kites presents a novel feature for a ,fourth of ,july celebration1 the arial display making a very pretty spectacle1 and the boy who sets off his fireworks in this manner will have something different from the rest of the neighborhood4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bie4 ,figure #bie shows the manner in which a ,roman-candle can be attached to a kite-string4 ,a piece of punk about an inch and one-half long should be bound to the fuse of the candle1 and as the fuse is rather short it is necessary to cut through the paper bound around it1 and set the punk into the end of the candle1 as shown in the drawing4 ,attach a piece of twine two feet long to the other end of the candle1 and then1 after getting your kite up1 attach the end of this string to the kite-string and light the punk1 being very careful in doing so not to ignite the fuse of the ,roman-candle4 ,after attaching the candle and lighting the punk1 let out the kite-string as rapidly as possible1 so that by the time the punk has burned down to the fuse end1 the ,roman-candle will be well up in the air4 ,as soon as the candle begins to explode1 shake the kite-string so as to make the balls shoot into the sky in different directions4 ,a ,pack of ,fire-crackers with a piece of punk attached to the fuses may also be suspended from a kite-string and fired in mid-air4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bif4 ,,fig4 #big4 ,schemes for ,attaching ,lanterns to ,kite-strings4 ,other fireworks may be set off similarly1 and colored lights produce a fine effect4 ,nigger-chasers shot into the air by means of a cross-bow1 such as is described in ,chapter ,,xvii1 present another novelty4 ,japanese ,lanterns hung from kite-strings are also a pretty sight1 and1 while they give somewhat the same appearance as fire-balloons1 they are lasting and can be saved for another year4 ,after procuring a number of lanterns of different shapes and sizes1 fasten candles securely in them so that there is no possibility of them igniting the paper4 ,figures #bif and #big show two ways in which the lanterns may be attached one below the other4 ,the first method 7,fig4 #bif7 consists of pins stuck through the bottoms of the lanterns and bent over into hooks1 while in the second 7,fig4 #big7 a small hole is made in the bottom of one lantern and the wire handle of another is slipped through this hole and looped over a burnt match4 ,before sending up the kite with these lanterns1 make a number of small loops in the kite-string where you wish to hang the lanterns1 and provide the handle of each series of lanterns with a pin-hook1 as shown in ,fig4 #big4 ,then1 when everything is in readiness1 have one of your friends hook the lanterns to the loops while you attend to letting out the kite-string4 ,of course the smaller the lanterns are the greater number you can hitch in place1 and if you use a team of kites you will find that they will carry a number of strings of lanterns4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bih4--;,a ,shooting-torch4 ,a ,shooting-torch1 such as is shown in ,fig4 #bih1 is a scheme that is simple to carry out4 ,it consists of a stick about eighteen inches long1 with fire-crackers bound around it with wire1 and the fuses twisted together1 as shown in the illustration4 ,it is fired in the same way as a ,roman-candle4 ,after firing all of your fireworks1 you should have ,a ,final ,set-piece with which to close the exhibition4 ,a good scheme for such a piece is shown in ,fig4 #bii4 ,mark out the letters upon a board1 and1 with a quarter-inch bit1 bore holes about one half-inch apart along the outlines of each letter4 ,then cut enough sticks of punk two inches long to fit all of the holes1 and put them to soak in kerosene4 ,the oil makes the punk burn much brighter than it would in its dry state4 ,when the punk is thoroughly soaked1 stick the pieces in the holes4 ,a candle will be found most convenient for lighting the punk4 ,nail the board to a tree or post1 and place several cannon-crackers in holes bored near the bottom of the board4 ,after allowing the punk to burn for a short time1 light the cannon-crackers and blow up the set-piece as a grand finish4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bii4--;,a ,final ,set-piece4 ,,chapter ,,xxi ,,halloween ,illustration3 ,witch ,riding ,broomstick and ,halloween ,prankster ,halloween1 or the eve of ,all ,saints' ,day1 has been observed since the beginning of the ,christian era4 ,in very early times1 ghosts1 demons1 and spirits were believed to rule the universe on this evening1 and any one who ventured upon the streets after dark was doing so at the risk of his life4 ,for companionship1 as well as protection1 it was customary for large numbers of friends to spend the evening together2 and these gathered around the fire-place1 and passed away the time drinking cider1 cracking nuts1 eating apples1 and telling ghost stories4 ,while the superstitious fears of ,halloween have almost entirely disappeared1 the evening is generally celebrated in the same manner as in the past4 ,this is the only evening on which a boy can feel free to play pranks outdoors without danger of being pinched1 and it is his delight to scare passing pedestrians1 ring door-bells1 and carry off the neighbors' gates 7after seeing that his own is unhinged and safely placed in the barn74 ,even if he is suspected1 and the next day made to remove the rubbish barricading the doors1 lug back the stone carriage step1 and climb a tree for the front gate1 the punishment is nothing compared with the sport the pranks have furnished him4 ,there is1 of course1 such a thing as boys going too far with their ,halloween fun and getting into malicious mischief1 but the cautious boy is not likely to cause any serious trouble by his actions4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cja4 ,,fig #cjj4--;,a ,section through the ,bean-blower4 ,a ,magazine ,bean-blower4 ,every boy who has used a bean-blower knows that the beans swell when held in the mouth1 often to such an extent that they will not go through the opening1 and clog the tube4 ,figure #cjj shows a scheme for a ,magazine ,bean-blower1 which does away with this difficulty1 inasmuch as with it the beans are not put in the mouth4 ,the drawing shows a section taken through the centre of one the writer has before him1 which works admirably4 ,this bean-blower will cost you just two cents1 the price of two of the regular nineteen-inch tin tubes sold in the stores4 ,to these add a large ribbon-spool1 which can be had for the asking at almost any dry goods store1 some glue1 and a sheet of writing paper4 ,place the spool in your bench-vise1 and bore a quarter-inch hole in the centre of the side of it 7see ,a1 ,fig4 #cjj74 ,this hole should be on a slant1 and extend only into the hollow part of the spool1 as shown in the drawing4 ,when this has been done1 take one of the tin tubes and cut off two sections of it1 one four inches long and the other three and one-half inches long4 ,this is easily done by filing through the tin on one side with a small file1 and then bending the tube back and forth until it breaks4 ,place the end of the four-inch tube in the hole bored in the spool at ,a1 gluing a strip of paper around it to make it fit tightly 7see ,b in ,fig4 #cjj74 ,a piece of paper smeared with glue should be wrapped around the other end of this tube in the form of a funnel1 as shown in ,fig4 #cja4 ,press the paper around the end of the tube1 as shown in the section drawing1 ,fig4 #cjj1 and use plenty of glue upon it to make it stiff4 ,glue a strip of paper around the short tube1 and stick it in one end of the spool1 as shown at ,c1 ,fig4 #cjj4 ,the little wooden mouthpiece that is furnished with bean-blowers nowadays should be slipped over the other end of the tube1 as shown in the drawing4 ,now take the second bean-blower1 and glue it in the other end of the spool1 as shown at ,d4 ,the bean-blower is now complete4 ,to operate it1 hold the spool in one hand1 and1 after dropping a number of beans or peas into the magazine1 place the palm of the other hand over the top of the paper funnel1 and blow until the tube is emptied4 ,it is necessary to close the opening in the top of the magazine1 or the beans will blow out of it instead of from the end of tube ,d4 ,dried peas always work better than beans in a bean-blower1 as they are round and never clog the tube4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cjb4--;,a ,new ,style of ,tick-tack4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cjd4 ,,fig4 #cjc4 ,details of ,crank for ,tick-tack4 ,the loud drumming noise of a tick-tack rattled upon a window is enough to give any one the cold shivers1 and if the guests of a ,halloween party are gathered about the fire-place1 telling weird ghost stories1 this unearthly noise is sufficient to give even the bravest heart a conviction that the house is haunted by supernatural beings4 ,the writer and his friends used to make ,a ,new ,style of ,tick-tack1 such as illustrated in ,fig4 #cjb1 which claims several advantages over the ordinary kind4 ,in the first place it has a crank arrangement which does away with the long string that is everlastingly becoming entangled1 and only one boy is necessary to operate it where two are required with the old-style affair4 ,again1 by having the tick-tack upon the end of a long pole1 second-story windows can easily be reached with it4 ,for the making of this tick-tack1 procure two large spools1 some heavy cord1 and a long pole 7perhaps you can borrow your mother's clothes-pole for the occasion74 ,with a knife cut notches in the flanges of one spool1 and fasten it to one end of the pole1 driving a large nail through the hole in the centre of the spool into the pole 7see ,fig4 #cjb74 ,place the other spool in your bench-vise and saw it in two pieces1 as shown in ,figs4 #cjc and #cjd1 so that ,a is one-half the size of ,b1 or one-third of the length of the spool4 ,cut a strip of wood about six inches long1 bore a hole near one end a little larger than a sixteen-penny nail1 and nail the strip to the end of spool ,a so that the hole comes exactly over the one in the spool 7see ,fig4 #cjc74 ,attach spool ,b to the other end of ,c by means of a nail driven through the hole into the strip4 ,the crank is now completed1 and should be fastened to the lower end of the pole by means of a nail driven through the hole in ,a4 ,it will be seen that this tick-tack is a simple piece of apparatus4 ,the crank at the lower end of the pole is turned and revolves the notched spool at the upper end4 ,to keep the cord from slipping on the pole1 a little resin should be rubbed upon it1 and it might be well also to rub a little upon the spools4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cje4 ,the ,clockwork ,tick-tack4 ,a ,clockwork ,tick-tack1 such as is illustrated in ,fig4 #cje1 is another good idea1 and one that can be carried out with a few minutes' work4 ,remove the works from an old alarm clock1 and fasten them with wire or cord to the end of a pole1 as shown4 ,attach a cord to the striker1 and make it long enough to reach to the other end of the pole4 ,make a loop in the end of the cord1 and drive a nail into the pole over which to loop the cord to keep the striker in check4 ,this tick-tack is worked by placing the end of the pole close to the window-glass1 with the striker toward the glass1 and slipping the cord off its nail4 ,the striker is controlled entirely by the cord4 ,the ,goblin-man 7,fig4 #cjf7 is easily made out of such material as you can most generally find about the house4 ,the framework for the body of this ghostly creature is shown in ,fig4 #cjg1 and consists of a pole about four feet long with the centre of an eighteen-inch crosspiece nailed across it4 ,in order to fasten these pieces firmly together1 they should be halved as shown in ,fig4 #bfg1 ,chapter ,,xix4 ,the arms consist of two sticks 7,a and ,b in ,fig4 #cjg7 fastened together at right angles with small iron braces1 and screwed in place near the ends of the crosspiece1 as shown in the illustration4 ,holes should be bored through the arm pieces in order that they may work freely on the screws4 ,place a small screw-eye in each arm at ,b1 and attach a short string to it4 ,a short stick should be nailed to the four-foot pole about eighteen inches from the lower end1 so that the boy who carries the framework can rest it upon his shoulder4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cjf4--,the ,goblin-man4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cjg4--;,framework of the ,goblin-man4 ,the head of the goblin is a jack-o'-lantern made out of a piece of cardboard1 bent as shown in ,fig4 #cjh1 and held in this shape by means of broom-wire laced back and forth across the top4 ,cut a hole the shape of an ear in each side1 and paste a piece of red tissue-paper over the opening4 ,for the face1 take a piece of white paper a little larger than the face is going to be1 mark out eyes1 nose1 and mouth upon it1 and cut the openings for them4 ,paste red tissue-paper over the openings for the eyes1 and mark a large black pupil in the corner of each 7,fig4 #cji74 ,for the mouth1 paste a piece of white tissue-paper over the opening1 and mark out the teeth in black 7,fig4 #cji74 ,a piece of red tissue-paper should be pasted over the opening for the nose4 ,after finishing the face1 paste it on to the cardboard head4 ,the goblin's countenance is lighted up from within1 by means of a candle fastened in a baking-powder can4 ,cut down one side of the can with a pair of tin-shears or a can-opener1 and tack it to the framework about six inches above the crosspiece1 as shown in ,fig4 #cjg4 ,this can must not be put in place1 however1 until the head is fastened to the framework1 which is done by punching a hole in the cardboard large enough to admit the end of the pole4 ,get an old derby for a hat1 and1 after punching a few holes in the top for the heat and smoke of the candle to escape1 sew it to the cardboard head4 ,cover the back of the head with black cloth in such a way that it may be opened to light the candle4 ,to save the goblin-man the embarrassment of losing his head1 drive a nail through the crown of the derby-hat into the end of the pole4 ,for a neck1 button a cuff around the pole between the crosspiece and head4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cjh4 ,,fig4 #cji4 ,,figs4 #cjh-cji4--,the ,goblin's ,head4 ,a white suit of clothes is1 of course1 the correct style for the goblin to wear4 ,this can be found in an old nightshirt1 lengthened with white cloth1 if necessary1 to make it reach the ground when it is placed upon him4 ,the shoulders should be padded out to hide the framework4 ,when the goblin-man is finished1 strap the shoulder-stick of the frame to your shoulder1 and fasten the end of the pole to your waist with a belt4 ,your hands are then free to manipulate the arms1 by means of the cords attached to their ends4 ,before starting out upon the street1 have some one light the candle in the head4 ,as this weird-looking creature passes along the streets1 with glaring eyes and other features equally brilliant1 people will have to stop to reassure themselves that they are not face to face with some unearthly demon4 ,a trick that will furnish amusement for at least a portion of the evening is ,the ,disappearing ,rope1 which is not an entirely new idea1 but one which is always popular4 ,procure a number of rubber bands and tie them together1 end to end4 ,then attach one end of these to a front fence1 and to the other end fasten several yards of string4 ,after doing this1 cross over the sidewalk with the string1 pulling it tightly so the rubber bands will stretch1 and hang a sign with the word ,,danger printed upon it in large letters over the string where it crosses the sidewalk4 ,it is only natural that the person who sees this sign will make a grab for it1 thinking you are blocking the sidewalk to make him walk around it4 ,this is your opportunity to act quickly and let go of the string1 which will snap back to the fence upon the contraction of the rubber bands1 and disappear from view1 leaving your much-astonished friend to pass on1 knowing that the joke is upon him4 ,,chapter ,,xxii ,a ,,back-,,yard ,,toboggan-,,slide ,illustration3 ,children on the ,toboggan-slide4 ,it is the misfortune of a great many boys to be deprived of one of winter's greatest sports1 by living in a flat country where there are no hills upon which to coast4 ,these boys have little use for sleds aside from hitching1 unless they can make an artificial slide4 ,in a number of large cities1 toboggan-slides on a large scale are erected in the parks each year1 and thrown open to the use of the public4 ,although this coasting cannot equal that to be had on natural hills1 it affords a great pastime to thousands of boys and girls1 and is a luxurious treat to many who have never seen hills larger than the artificial park variety4 ,the construction of a toboggan-slide is not difficult for a boy or several boys1 and though it must be limited in size1 a small slide has an advantage in that there is not a long walk from the end of the run back to the starting-point4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #caj4--;,a ,back-yard ,toboggan-slide4 ,it is a good idea to locate the toboggan-slide in a back-yard or an enclosed lot1 so that the outside fellows cannot monopolize it2 and it is well to have some firm object to which the framework can be fastened1 as it saves a great deal of bracing1 and materially lessens the amount of lumber needed4 ,the work should be done in the early part of the fall1 before the cold weather sets in4 ,figure #caj shows a slide built in the corner of a yard against the fence4 ,the ,length will be determined by the size of the yard4 ,if the yard is short1 the slide should be proportioned accordingly1 to allow the sled its full run before reaching the end of the lot4 ,a ,platform should be built in the corner1 six feet square1 and about seven feet above the ground4 ,for this1 cut four two-by-fours six feet nine inches long1 fasten one in the angle formed by the two fences1 and another five feet four inches to the right of it 7,a and ,b in ,fig4 #cab74 ,the third upright 7,c7 should be nailed to the fence five feet eight inches from ,a1 and the fourth 7,d7 should be fastened at an equal distance from ,b4 ,then cut two pieces of two-by-four each six feet long1 and nail them across the tops of ,a and ,c1 and ,b and ,d1 respectively1 as shown at ,e and ,f in ,fig4 #cab4 ,the uprights should now be braced with horizontal and diagonal bracing1 as shown in ,fig4 #cab1 to give the platform the necessary stiffness4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #caa-cac4--;,framework of ,toboggan-slide4 ,after deciding upon the length of the slide1 lay off the distance upon the ground from the bottom of upright ,b1 and drive a stake into the ground at the farther end4 ,then attach a cord to the stake and run it along the fence to a nail driven into the top of upright ,b4 ,this cord1 shown in ,fig4 #caa1 marks the pitch of the slide1 and will give you a guide-line by which to work4 ,when this has been done1 cut three pieces of two-by-four about two feet long1 and spike them to the fence just below the guide-line 7see ,g1 ,h1 and ,i1 ,fig4 #caa71 spacing them about six feet apart on centres4 ,when these have been fastened in place1 take a piece of two-by-four and mark off upon it the distance from the ground to the top of block ,i4 ,then square a line across the two-by-four at this point1 at an angle corresponding to that at which block ,i is nailed to the fence 7see ,fig4 #cac74 ,saw the two-by-four on this line1 and then stand it upright in front of block ,i1 thirty or thirty-two inches from the fence 7according to whether eight-or ten-inch boards are used upon the slide71 and spike a piece of two-by-four to the top of it and to the top of block ,i1 as shown in ,fig4 #cab4 ,cut and set up a similar upright and crosspiece at ,g and at ,h1 after which brace all as shown in the illustration 7,fig4 #cab74 ,if you are going to buy boards with which to cover the platform and slide1 get twelve-foot lengths1 eight or ten inches wide4 ,by using these you will have no waste1 and but little cutting to do4 ,if1 however1 you have material of other dimensions on hand which you can use1 the supports of the slide should be so spaced that the boards will reach from one to another4 ,the boards should run lengthwise upon the slide1 and be nailed to the framework1 leaving as small cracks as possible between them4 ,in order to prevent sleds from running off the slide1 a guide should be nailed to the edge farthest from the fence1 from the top to the bottom1 and on the opposite side where it extends above the fence top 7see ,fig4 #caj74 ,after nailing the platform boards in place1 ,build a ,railing out of boards around three sides of it1 to prevent any one from slipping off 7see ,fig4 #caj74 ,a ,ladder1 made out of two two-by-fours1 with two-inch strips nailed across them1 should be set against the front of the platform and spiked in place1 as shown in the illustration of the completed slide 7,fig4 #caj74 ,this will make it easier to reach the platform than by the way of the icy slide1 and also prevents those coasting from colliding with those who are returning4 ,any ingenious boy will know how to make a swift slide by turning the hose upon it1 and allowing the water to run over the surface until every portion is well covered4 ,a toboggan-sled is out of proportion for a slide of this size1 and will not be found as satisfactory as a sled with runners1 as the steepness of the slide will not be sufficient to make it go4 ,a ,home-made ,sled1 such as that shown in ,fig4 #cad1 requires but little material1 and if carefully made will prove stronger than the variety commonly sold in the shops4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cad4--;,a ,home-made ,sled4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cae4--,pattern for ,runners4 ,figure #cae shows the pattern for the runners1 which should be cut out of four-inch boards1 seven-eighths of an inch thick4 ,round the top edges1 and cut the front and rear ends as shown in the drawing4 ,make a slot in the place indicated for a handle1 and bore a hole near the front end for the crosspiece to run through4 ,the seat consists of a board cut twenty-two inches long and nine inches wide4 ,this will not be nailed to the runners but to cleats1 as shown in ,fig4 #caf4 ,cut three cleats nine and one-quarter inches long1 two inches wide1 and seven-eighths of an inch thick1 and fasten these between the runners1 five-eighths of an inch from their tops1 placing one near the end of the seat1 one at the centre1 and one at the front4 ,four two-inch iron braces should be procured1 and two of these screwed to the under side of the front and rear cleats1 and to the sides of the runners1 as shown in ,fig4 #caf4 ,the seat can then be nailed in place1 and a broom-handle fastened in the hole bored near the ends of the runners4 ,the ,best ,kind of ,iron ,runners for a home-made sled are those that a boy can put on without the aid of a blacksmith1 and such a pair of runners is shown in the drawing of this sled4 ,they consist of what are known as half-oval iron strips1 and can be had usually at a hardware store or blacksmith shop4 ,a pair forty inches long and three-quarters of an inch wide1 with five holes for countersunk screws drilled in each1 can be bought for fifty cents4 ,when they have been procured1 screw them to the bottom of the runners1 using one inch or one and one-quarter inch screws for the purpose4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #caf4--;,a ,section through the ,sled4 ,although these runners are plenty heavy enough for light coasting1 they would probably prove weak for coasting upon hills of any great size4 ,to withstand the strain brought to bear upon the runners when hill coasting1 boys generally find it necessary to make them out of two-inch stuff4 ,this1 however1 makes the sled heavy and clumsy1 and can be done away with by following a scheme which a friend of the writer's invented and found very satisfactory4 ,it consisted of ,renforcing the ,runners with steel bars driven into holes bored vertically in them4 ,the holes were bored while the runners were held in a vise1 and the steel bars were a little larger than the holes1 so that they would fit them tightly4 ,this scheme allows the use of seven-eighths inch stuff for the runners1 and sixty-penny wire nails can be filed off to the proper length and substituted for steel bars if the latter cannot be obtained4 ,when the sled has been completed1 it should be given a good coat of paint4 ,illustration3 ,boys ,discuss the ,project4 ,,part ,,iii ,indoor ,pastimes ,illustration3 ,a ,,miniature ,,theatre4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii ,a ,,miniature ,,theatre ,illustration3 ,children at the ,theatre4 ,probably nothing can be found which will make a more interesting entertainment for a winter evening1 than a miniature theatre patterned as nearly as possible after a large playhouse4 ,the construction of the stage1 and preparation of miniature scenery1 properties1 and mechanical effects1 furnish good work for disagreeable weather when it becomes necessary to remain indoors1 and there is plenty of it1 and of great enough variety1 to occupy the attention of a number of boys4 ,very little material is necessary1 outside of what generally can be found in the attic1 cellar1 and woodshed1 so that the expense incurred by making the theatre amounts to almost nothing4 ,a gilt picture-frame makes ,an ,excellent ,proscenium for the front of the stage1 and1 as it will not be marred in the least1 you can probably borrow one for the occasion4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cag4--,the ,stage ,framework4 ,on the opposite page is shown a miniature theatre completed1 and in ,fig4 #cag will be seen the proper construction of ,the ,stage ,framework1 which is made of narrow boards and built upon two horses the width of the picture-frame4 ,make the horses as shown in ,fig4 #cag1 one two feet six inches high and the other two feet nine inches high1 using two-by-fours for the tops and narrow boards for the legs and braces4 ,after constructing the horses1 cut four boards seven feet long and nail two to the ends of each 7,a and ,b1 ,fig4 #cag71 after which cut two pieces to reach across the tops and nail them in place as shown at ,c4 ,then set the horses five feet apart1 with the lower one in front1 and screw three boards to the tops as shown at ,d1 ,e1 and ,f1 and three narrow strips to the top of the framework as shown at ,g1 ,h1 and ,i4 ,strips ,g1 ,h1 and ,i form what is known as ,the ,gridiron1 or supports from which the scenery drops are suspended1 and should have a row of tacks driven into each edge1 as shown in ,fig4 #cag1 upon which to hang the drops4 ,by fastening the framework together with screws1 it may be taken apart after a performance and packed away for another time4 ,the ,stage ,floor rests upon boards ,d1 ,e1 and ,f1 and is made of laths laid close together1 parallel to the front of the stage4 ,the laths should not be nailed in place1 as it is necessary to have the stage floor movable4 ,when the work has proceeded thus far1 set the picture-frame between the uprights of the front frame so that the opening comes on a level with the stage floor1 and fasten it to ,a and ,b with nails driven through screw-eyes placed in the back of the picture-frame4 ,the ,drop-curtain should be made of white muslin1 and measure in width several inches wider than the opening in the picture-frame4 ,hem the two side edges of the cloth1 and sew brass rings on to them two inches apart4 ,then tack the top and bottom to strips of wood4 ,a scene may be painted upon this curtain1 but you will find the result probably more successful if you paste a picture of some sort upon the cloth1 as suggested in the illustration of the completed theatre4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cah4--,view of ,curtain from ,stage4 ,in ,fig4 #cah we have a view from the stage of the arrangement by which the curtain is raised and lowered4 ,two heavy wires should be slipped through the rings on the curtain1 and their ends fastened to four screw-eyes placed in the uprights at ,j1 ,k1 ,l1 and ,m4 ,these form the curtain guides4 ,bore two holes in uprights ,a and ,b above the picture-frame1 and run a broom-stick through them for a roller1 after which make a crank similar to that shown in ,fig4 #cai and fasten it to one end4 ,place two screw-eyes in the crosspiece at ,n and ,o 7,fig4 #cah7 and slip two cords through them1 tying one end of each to the top of the curtain and the other end to the roller4 ,by turning the crank the string will now wind around the roller and raise the curtain4 ,it will be necessary to screw a button on to upright ,a at ,p1 as shown in ,fig4 #cai1 to lock the crank when the curtain is raised4 ,we often had two and three drop-curtains upon our miniature theatres1 which made it necessary to have additional rollers and guide-wires4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cai4--;,crank for ,curtain ,pole4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbj4--,the ,footlights4 ,the greatest precautions should be taken ,in lighting the ,theatre1 to have all wood surrounding lights covered with tin1 and not to use candles or matches around inflammable substances4 ,figure #cbj shows a satisfactory arrangement of ,the ,footlights4--,a piece of tin the length of the picture-frame and ten inches wide should be procured for these and bent into the shape shown in the illustration4 ,drive tacks through the bottom of the tin about two inches apart1 and stick a short candle upon each4 ,then fasten the tin below the picture-frame as shown in the drawing of the completed theatre1 and paint it black upon the outside4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cba4 ,,fig4 #cbd4 ,,fig4 #cbb4 ,,fig4 #cbc4 ,details of ,floodlights4 ,floodlights1 which are used to throw light from the wings on to the stage1 may be made as shown in ,figs4 #cba1 #cbb1 #cbc1 and #cbd4 ,the case for the light is made in the same manner as the dark-room lantern1 described in ,chapter ,,xi1 and illustrated by ,figs4 #agf and #agg1 except that the door is placed in the side instead of the back and no glass or paper is fastened over the front opening 7see ,figs4 #cbb and #cbc74 ,make the opening four by five inches1 and fasten two grooves1 formed by nailing two strips of wood together1 as shown in ,fig4 #cbd1 above and below it1 in which to slide glass plates for the purpose of throwing ,colored ,lights upon a scene4 ,the slides consist of old four-by-five camera plates with colored tissue-paper pasted upon them1 and are operated in the same manner as magic-lantern slides4 ,the light should be mounted upon a standard1 such as is shown in ,fig4 #cba1 consisting of a seven-foot pole fastened at the lower end to a board and braced with triangular blocks1 as shown in the illustration4 ,it should be so attached to the pole that it can be adjusted to any desired height1 and to attain this two pipe-straps should be fastened to the back of the box1 as shown in ,fig4 #cbb4 ,first nail two vertical strips in place as at ,a and ,b in the drawing1 and to these screw the two iron pipe-straps4 ,when the straps have been attached1 slip the end of the pole through them1 and place a screw-eye in the box1 another in the pole near its upper end1 and a nail in the side of the box4 ,then attach a cord to the screw-eye in the box1 and1 after running it through the screw-eye near the top of the pole1 twist it several times around the nail in the side of the box1 which will hold the box in that position4 ,one of these lights should be made for each side of the stage4 ,in addition to them1 you may have occasion to use ,spotlights to throw more light upon one portion of a scene than another4 ,bicycle lamps will be found handy for this purpose4 ,if your house is wired for electricity1 several miniature incandescent lamps can be procured for the footlights1 while larger lamps can be used for all the other necessary lighting4 ,as the work of making scenery1 properties1 and mechanical effects is not in the same line as the construction of the stage and its framework1 it has been treated in the following chapter4 ,before setting up the theatre for a performance1 it is well to spread a large cloth over the carpet1 to catch anything that may drop from the stage4 ,then1 with all the framework fastened together1 hang draperies on each side and above and below the proscenium arch1 as shown in chapter heading4 ,this will conceal everything but the proscenium opening4 ,admission ,tickets and programmes should1 of course1 be printed with a printing-press if you have one2 otherwise with rubber stamps4 ,,chapter ,,xxiv ,,scenery1 ,,properties1 ,,and ,,mechanical ,,effects ,illustration3 ,working on ,drops4 ,scenery for a miniature theatre will be made in much the same manner as the small drops and wings a scenic artist prepares of each scene of a play1 before he commences work upon the large canvasses4 ,any handy boy will find it an easy matter to prepare his scenery1 as it does not require a knowledge of drawing so much as it does the knack of copying scenes from pictures1 and the proper placing of the various wings and drops4 ,several simple suggestions for water1 field1 street1 and interior scenes1 with sketches of the drops and wings necessary to complete them1 have been placed on the following pages of this chapter with a view to helping you with your first attempts at making scenery4 ,by the time you have made some of these you will have had enough practice in the work to devise other designs and work up the details more elaborately4 ,with a little shifting of drops and wings1 or substituting one for another1 the appearance of the scene can be sufficiently changed to make it as good as an entirely new setting4 ,several examples of this will be found among the illustrations4 ,for materials1 you will require some large pieces of paper1 several sheets of cardboard1 a box of colored chalks1 a pair of shears1 and a pot of paste--add to this a bunch of laths with which to make the frames1 and some nails1 screws1 and tacks for fastenings4 ,the back of wall-paper presents an excellent surface for chalks1 and several rolls will cost you but a few cents1 as you can purchase old-style patterns4 ,suit and shoe boxes will furnish the necessary cardboard4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbe4--;,drop for ,ocean ,scene4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbf4--;,drop 7,d in ,ocean ,scene74 ,the size and proportion of the scenery will depend entirely upon those of the proscenium1 and as these are governed by the size of the picture frame you procure1 no attempt will be made to give you the dimensions of wings and drops2 but you will get a good idea as to their proper proportion from the illustrations shown of the scenes set up1 as the line of the proscenium opening is dotted upon them4 ,in the full-page illustration of the completed theatre preceding ,chapter ,,xxiii is shown ,an ,ocean ,scene in which the entire depth of the stage is used for the setting4 ,here you will notice the drops have been made to extend beyond the sides and top of the proscenium opening1 a thing which is necessary in order that those of your audience sitting close to the front of the theatre1 or to one side of the centre of the stage1 will not be able to see through the openings between the drops and wings4 ,figure #cbe shows how the four drops necessary for this scene should be made4 ,first sketch drop ,a1 shading the clouds and waves with colored chalks as shown in the drawing of the completed theatre4 ,then cut out the opening in its centre1 carefully following the outlines of the clouds4 ,lay this sheet upon another and mark out drop ,b1 with a smaller opening in its centre1 and then1 after coloring and cutting it out in the same manner as you did drop ,a1 lay it upon a third sheet and mark out drop ,c1 with a still smaller opening in its centre 7see ,fig4 #cbe74 ,drop ,d forms the background of the scene1 and should be made as shown in ,fig4 #cbf1 with a horizontal line separating the sky and water4 ,with the exception of a few white caps in the foreground1 no waves should be shown upon this drop4 ,if wall-paper is used for the scenery1 several widths will have to be pasted together for each drop4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbg4--,waves for ,ocean ,scene4 ,additional waves should be made out of strips of paper and fastened together as shown in ,fig4 #cbg1 with the crests of the waves of each strip extending a little above those of the strip in front4 ,prepare three sets of the waves1 and1 after pasting one to the bottom of each drop1 bend out the crests so as to leave a little space between each strip4 ,these drops should now be tacked to frames made out of laths similar to ,fig4 #cbh1 with the corners nailed and braced with diagonal strips4 ,place a couple of tacks in the top of these frames1 and to these attach cords4 ,the drops should now be hung by means of the cords to the tacks in the top strips of the stage framework4 ,space them about as shown in the illustration of the completed theatre1 and so adjust the lengths of the cords that1 from a point equal to where the centre of your audience will be located1 the horizon lines of your drops will appear on a line with one another4 ,then having found the proper lengths of the cords1 make loops in them so the drops can be quickly hung in place without further adjustment4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbh4--;,frames for ,drops4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbi4--,rocks for a ,seashore ,scene4 ,in the foreground of the ocean scene a stone wall has been shown1 which should be made upon a strip of cardboard1 with the joints of the stones marked off with gray paint4 ,this strip should be set against the bottom of the front drop4 ,to change this setting into ,a ,mid-ocean ,scene1 it is only necessary to substitute a strip of waves similar to ,fig4 #cbg in place of the stone wall2 and ,a ,seashore ,scene can be had by making a strip of rocks similar to ,fig4 #cbi to set against the front drop1 and covering the foreground with sand to form the beach4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cca4--;,drop 7,g in ,field and ,blockhouse ,scene74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ccb4--;,drop 7,h in ,field1 ,blockhouse1 and ,street ,scene74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ccj4 ,a ,,field ,,scene4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cch4 ,a ,,blockhouse ,,scene4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ccc4--,wing4 ,fence and ,foliage 7,i in ,field ,scene74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ccd4--,wing 7,j in ,field and ,blockhouse ,scene74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cce4--,wing 7,k in ,street and ,blockhouse ,scene74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ccf4--,standard for ,trees4 ,a ,field ,scene should be set up as shown in ,fig4 #ccj4 ,make the background drop ,g similar to ,fig4 #cca1 tacking it to a frame as you did the drops of the ocean scene1 and prepare the foreground drop ,h similar to ,fig4 #ccb1 tacking its upper edge to a single lath from which it can be hung in position4 ,draw the leaves upon drop ,h about as shown in the illustration1 and in cutting out the strip make a few openings between the leaves as shown in the drawing4 ,wings ,i and ,j are shown in ,figs4 #ccc and #ccd4 ,these should be drawn upon cardboard1 and then cut out with a sharp knife1 with openings made in places between the leaves and branches4 ,tack the bottom of ,the ,trees to small blocks of wood for standards 7see ,fig4 #ccf71 and drive brads through the blocks so they will stick into the stage floor and prevent the trees from toppling over4 ,in setting up this scene1 as in the case of all others1 you will have to shift the pieces until all entrances and exits are hidden by the wings4 ,the places can then be marked upon the stage floor4 ,this scene will occupy but the front part of the stage4 ,if a greater depth is desired1 it will be necessary to prepare additional wings1 which can be made similar to ,figs4 #ccc and #ccd1 with possibly a few changes in the form of the branches and leaves4 ,figure #cce shows a tree that can be used for the centre of a scene4 ,a little earth scattered over the stage floor will give the appearance of ground4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ccg4--;,blockhouse 7,l in ,blockhouse ,scene74 ,by using the same background drop1 ,g1 and the foreground drop1 ,h 7,figs4 #cca and #ccb71 trees1 ,j and ,k 7,figs4 #ccd and #cce71 and making a blockhouse and stockade similar to ,l 7,fig4 #ccg71 you will have the proper setting for ,a ,blockhouse ,scene1 such as is shown in ,fig #cch4 ,the blockhouse should be fastened to a strip of wood in the same manner as you fastened the ends of the trees 7see ,fig4 #ccf74 ,for outdoor scenery1 and especially forest scenes1 the writer remembers using ,pine ,boughs for trees and shrubbery4 ,these were cut into pieces of the right length for trees1 with their ends pointed so they would stick into gimlet holes made in the laths of the stage floor2 and loose pieces were thrown in between for shrubbery4 ,mounds and hills were made with moss4 ,this saved the work of making so many drops1 and1 of course1 looked a little more realistic than paper scenery1 but was not as handy to set up1 and caused longer delays between the scenes4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cdj4--;,drop 7,m in ,street ,scene74 ,rustic ,bridges can easily be constructed with a few twigs1 as can also rustic seats and fences4 ,a very realistic ,pond or ,lake can be represented by placing a piece of a mirror upon the stage floor1 and banking sand or moss around its edge4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cci4 ,a ,,street ,,scene4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cda4--,wing 7,o in ,street ,scene74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cdb4--,wing 7,n in ,street ,scene74 ,figure #cci shows a simple setting for ,a ,street ,scene4--,the background will be made similar to ,fig4 #cdj1 and the wings ,n and ,o as shown in ,figs4 #cda and #cdb1 while drop ,h and wing ,k are the same as used for the other scenes 7see ,figs4 #ccb and #cce74 ,wing ,o1 the house upon the right of the stage1 will be made in one piece1 with window openings cut in it and covered with tissue-paper ruled to represent the window-sash 7see ,fig4 #cda74 ,show the trim around the openings and also the siding upon the building4 ,then fasten the back of the wing to a standard such as used for the trees 7see ,fig4 #ccf74 ,wing ,n1 or building upon the left of the stage1 will require a number of pieces of cardboard to show its perspective correctly4 ,make the front of the building as shown in ,fig4 #cdb4 ,then fasten a piece of cardboard to edge ,a for the side1 three pieces at ,b1 ,c1 and ,d for the roof1 and a strip across the front at ,e for the porch roof4 ,the pieces can be fastened together best with strips of linen glued to their inside surfaces4 ,the porch roof will be supported upon four posts made out of strips of cardboard as shown in ,fig4 #cci4 ,this building will be the village post-office1 grocery1 and hardware store combined1 and should have a number of signs to this effect painted upon the front4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cdc4--;,a ,simple ,interior ,scene4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cdd4--,pattern for ,walls of ,interior ,scene4 ,to the several outdoor scenes already described1 you should add a setting of ,an ,interior1 as you will probably have occasion to use one in any play you produce in your miniature theatre4 ,figure #cdc shows a simple interior1 the size of which will1 of course1 depend upon that of the stage4 ,however1 it should not be very deep4 ,figure #cdd shows the pattern by which to cut the five pieces of cardboard1 of which the walls are made4 ,the edges of these pieces should be glued together with strips of linen4 ,cut the door openings at ,f1 ,g1 and ,h1 two window openings at ,i and ,j1 and slots in the tops of ,b and ,d at ,k1 ,l1 ,m1 ,n1 ,o1 and ,p1 as shown in the drawing4 ,make the doors out of pieces of cardboard1 hinging them to the openings with linen strips1 and draw the window-sash and their divisions upon tissue-paper and paste them over the openings ,i and ,j4 ,oil the paper if it is not very transparent1 so the audience can see the villain when he passes by the windows4 ,make a wainscoting around the walls to the height of the window-sills1 ruling the boards with a lead pencil1 and draw a line across wall ,c a little below the bottom of slots ,m and ,n in walls ,b and ,d1 as shown4 ,if you have used white cardboard for the walls1 and not injured its calendered surface when cutting the openings1 it will have a good plaster appearance4 ,otherwise1 cover the cardboard with white or tinted paper4 ,paint the wainscoting and the door and window trimmings brown4 ,to set up the room1 bend the walls into the shape shown in ,fig4 #cdc4 ,then cut three strips of cardboard several inches longer than the width of the room and slip them into the slots you have cut in the tops of the walls ,b and ,d 7see ,q1 ,r1 and ,s1 ,fig4 #cdc74 ,t is a drop like ,s1 but is suspended in front from the gridiron4 ,these strips form the ceiling of the room1 and generally have beams or mouldings painted across their bottom edges1 but it will simplify matters to leave them plain1 as shown in the illustration4 ,the line which you have drawn across the rear wall corresponds with these strips4 ,cut a number of illustrations from a magazine for pictures1 and either hang them upon the walls or paste them to the cardboard4 ,doll furnishings can be used to complete the scene4 ,there are a great variety of subjects upon which a boy can base his plays1 but what probably will make the most interesting programme and one of the simplest to prepare is ,a ,war ,drama4--,in this you can picture a number of battles after the descriptions you have read in your history1 or dramatize one of your favorite war stories1 bringing its young heroes before the footlights4 ,this class of plays will give you an opportunity to use ,paper ,soldiers for actors4 ,probably you have a supply of these1 but if not1 you can get them at any toy store4 ,they come upon printed sheets ready to be cut out1 and as they cost only a penny a sheet it pays to buy rather than make them4 ,cavalry and infantry of about every nationality1 ,indians in various positions upon horseback and on foot1 and a large assortment of ,american soldiers in marching order and fighting array are now to be found in these sheets4 ,for ,marching ,soldiers across the stage1 tack their feet to a lath as shown in ,fig4 #cde1 and then slide the lath across the stage1 at the same time pushing out one of the laths forming the floor4 ,the moving of the laths scarcely will be noticeable from the position of your audience4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cde4--,scheme for ,marching ,soldiers4 ,separate ,standards for soldiers you wish to set about the stage should have small strips of cardboard glued to their backs and bent out in the same manner as easel-backs are made4 ,at least four or five of the soldiers should be jointed so they can walk about the stage and appear perhaps a little more graceful in their actions than their stiff-jointed comrades who are fastened to laths4 ,figure #cdf shows ,a ,jointed ,figure made out of a paper soldier4 ,suppose you have a soldier in some such position as shown in ,fig4 #cdg4 ,first cut off the legs along the dotted lines shown in the illustration1 each leg in two pieces 7see ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 and ,d1 ,figs4 #cdg and #cdh74 ,remove also the hand projecting beyond the body at ,e4 ,a small piece of cardboard of the same thickness as that upon which the soldiers are printed should be glued to the back of ,c and ,d where those pieces were cut into in cutting off the legs 7see ,f1 ,g1 and ,h1 ,fig4 #cdh74 ,when this has been done1 pivot ,a and ,b to ,c and ,d at ,f and ,g1 and then pivot the ends of ,c and ,d at ,h and ,i to the hips of the soldier 7see ,fig4 #cdf74 ,thread should be used for pivoting these pieces together1 with knots tied on either end4 ,new arms will have to be made1 as those printed upon the body cannot be cut out4 ,these are made in two pieces similar to ,j and ,k in ,fig4 #cdh4 ,you will find it a simple thing to make them and paint the hands flesh color and the sleeves to match the rest of the clothes4 ,pivot ,j to ,k at ,l and the end of ,k to the shoulder at ,m4 ,the arm printed upon the side of the figure should now be painted so as to blend with the color of the coat4 ,the white cardboard glued to the joints should also be painted to correspond with the rest of the body4 ,you will find this method of making a jointed soldier much easier than to attempt to draw1 paint1 and cut out one of your own design4 ,figures in other positions can1 of course1 be jointed in the same manner4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #cdf-cdh4 ,scheme for making a ,jointed ,figure4 ,the movements of a jointed figure are controlled with pieces of silk-thread attached to the hands1 feet1 and head1 as shown in ,fig4 #cdf4 ,these threads should be carried through the top of the stage framework and loops made in their ends should slip over the fingers of your hands1 in which position they can be operated4 ,it will take a little practice beforehand to enable you to work the threads successfully1 so you will not be responsible for such laughable performances as making him dance while delivering a farewell address1 or leave the scene through the top of the stage during an exciting portion of the play4 ,in an interior scene1 such as ,fig4 #cdc1 the jointed figures will have to make their entres and exits through the passages between the front walls and the proscenium1 as the operating cords would interfere with them going through the other openings4 ,the figures which pass through the doors will have to be tacked to the floor laths and shoved across the stage4 ,all the small movable furnishings of a scene are known as ,stage ,properties4--,these include such pieces as furniture1 boats1 carts1 and trains4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cej4 ,,fig4 #cdi4 ,a ,tent4 ,tents will be necessary properties for an encampment scene4 ,these should be cut out of white paper the pattern of ,fig4 #cdi1 then folded along the dotted lines1 and edge ,b pasted over the flap ,a4 ,the front flaps will be left open4 ,figure #cej shows the tent set up4 ,an ,indian ,teepee will also be required for ,indian warfare4 ,follow the pattern shown in ,fig4 #cea1 marking it off as though it were made up of a number of skins1 and place a few figures of decoration upon it4 ,then cut three or four short sticks and1 after crossing their ends as shown in ,fig4 #ceb1 fasten the paper covering over them1 bending flap ,a along the dotted line1 and pasting ,b over it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cea4 ,,fig4 #ceb4 ,a ,teepee4 ,the field scene 7,fig4 #ccj7 and the blockhouse scene 7,fig4 #cch7 will be used for the settings of your battle-fields4 ,for your miniature sea-fights1 the mid-ocean scene will be used4 ,battleships should be made out of cardboard as shown in ,fig4 #cec1 with the masts renforced at the back with strips of wood1 and the rigging made with heavy thread4 ,it will be well to have a number of pictures from which to work in drawing and painting the various ships of your fleet4 ,the hull of each ship should be curved as shown in the illustration1 and mounted upon a cardboard rocker4 ,make a number of slashes along the curved edge of the hull1 and bend out the little flaps alternately1 first to one side and then to the other 7see ,a in drawing71 after which glue them to the rocker4 ,attach a cord at ,b1 with which to pull the ship across the stage1 and another cord at ,c1 with which to guide the stern4 ,the hull will1 of course1 run between the strips of waves1 so as to be half concealed by them4 ,a person cannot imagine how realistic these little battleships appear when tossing about upon the toy waves1 without having seen them in operation4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cec4--;,a ,battleship4 ,trains and ,wagons can be cut out of cardboard and moved across the stage by means of laths to which they have been attached in the same manner as the paper soldiers shown in ,fig4 #cde4 ,toy wagons1 carriages1 and an automobile such as described in ,chapter ,,xxvi1 may also be used in some scenes4 ,rain1 wind1 thunder1 and such stage sounds1 a moon or sun-rise1 and lightning1 as produced on the stage1 are known as ,mechanical ,effects4--,most of these can easily be adapted to your theatre1 though the apparatus need not be as elaborate as that used by professionals4 ,thunder can be produced by means of a large piece of heavy cardboard held by one corner1 as shown in the chapter heading1 and vibrated back and forth4 ,the beating of ,rain upon the outside of a house is imitated with a small quantity of dried peas or beans dropped upon the head of a drum or into a cardboard box4 ,every time the door is opened during such a storm1 the audience should hear the whistling of the ,wind1 which is imitated by a few low drawn-out whistles4 ,the stage must1 of course1 be dark for producing ,lightning1 in order to get the best effects4 ,the flashes can be made by igniting a small amount of flash-light powder1 placed in a tin can cover4 ,the ,roar of ,cannon and firing of smaller guns can be imitated to good effect upon a drum4 ,,chapter ,,xxv ,,making ,a ,,toy ,,railway ,illustration3 ,bicycle ,powered ,railway4 ,it is often thought that a toy railway is beyond a boy's ingenuity to construct1 whereas1 in reality1 it is one of the simplest toys he can make4 ,this applies to the tracks1 stations1 and cars of every description1 all of which can be made with a few strips of wood1 some spools1 nails1 cardboard1 and a bottle of glue1 for materials4 ,if you have passed the age of caring for such toys as this1 you will1 no doubt1 enjoy the making of one for your younger brother1 or for one of your boy relatives4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ced4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cee4--,the ,toy ,railway in ,operation4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cef4--,support for ,trolley-line4 ,figure #cee shows a railway set up and in running order4 ,as shown in the illustration1 ,the ,trolley-line1 or overhead cable1 runs around the wheels of two supports1 one at either end of the track4 ,prepare four pieces of wood the shape and size of that shown in ,fig4 #ced for the uprights of these supports1 and make two wheels three inches in diameter4 ,the wheels may be marked out with a piece of string and pencil as shown in ,fig4 #bja1 ,chapter ,,xv1 if you haven't a compass4 ,when the wheels have been cut out1 place them in your bench-vise1 one at a time1 and with a rasp make a groove around the edge as shown at ,c1 ,fig4 #cef4 ,bore a three-eighths inch hole through each upright at ,f1 ,fig4 #ced1 and another through the centre of each wheel4 ,now fasten two of the uprights six inches apart upon a block of wood1 as shown at ,a and ,b1 ,fig4 #cef4 ,whittle a shaft to fit loosely in the holes of the uprights1 and1 after slipping it into them1 fasten one of the wheels upon one end and a small spool upon the other 7see ,c and ,d in ,fig4 #cef74 ,a weight of some sort should be fastened to the base1 as shown at ,e4 ,the uprights for the other support should be similarly mounted upon another block of wood4 ,fasten the remaining wheel to an axle run through the holes in the uprights1 and1 as it is unnecessary to have a spool upon the other end of the axle1 cut it off short and drive a nail through it to prevent it from slipping through the holes4 ,having thus prepared the supports1 place them as far apart as you wish to extend the railway1 and run a cord around the two wheels and tie it4 ,then set the supports a little farther apart1 if necessary1 to tighten the cord4 ,run another cord from spool ,d to ,a ,water-motor1 steam engine1 or whatever power you can get with which to operate the railway4 ,a bicycle inverted with the tire removed from its rear wheel has been used satisfactorily1 as has also a sewing-machine with the belt slipped off and the cord from the spool put in its place4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ceg4--,the ,tracks4 ,a good substitute for the tin tracks ordinarily sold in shops for toy railways will be found in those shown in ,fig4 #ceg4 ,these ,tracks consist of quarter-inch strips mounted upon pieces of cardboard4 ,make a small gimlet-hole in one end of each stick1 and drive a short finishing nail in the opposite end 7see ,fig4 #ceg74 ,cut the cardboard strips the length of the sticks1 and tack them to the sticks as shown in the illustration4 ,if inch and one-half spools are used for the car wheels1 the inside gauge of the tracks should be an inch and three-quarters4 ,by lapping the cardboard strips over the ends of the sticks1 and the sticks over the ends of the cardboard strips1 and placing the nail dowels in the ends of the sticks as in the drawing1 a strong track is formed when the pieces are fitted together4 ,this may be extended to any desired length by adding more sections to it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ceh4--;,a ,top ,view of ,car ,truck4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cei4--,spool ,wheels4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cfa4 ,,fig4 #cfj4 ,the ,cars for this railway will have their trucks constructed alike1 and it is a simple matter to transform a car from one style into another4 ,figure #ceh shows a top view of a truck4 ,for the bed of this cut a three-eighths-inch board twelve inches long by two and one-quarter inches wide1 and1 after rounding the ends as shown in the drawing1 cut a mortise at ,a and ,b two and three-eighths inches from either end4 ,procure two one and one-half inch spools for wheels1 and drive a wooden peg through the hole in each1 cutting off the ends so they project a little beyond the hole1 as shown in ,fig4 #cei4 ,then bore four holes in the edges of the truck-bed with a gimlet at ,c1 ,d1 ,e1 and ,f 7see drawing71 and1 after setting the spools in mortises ,a and ,b1 pivot them in place with small finishing nails driven into the wooden pegs4 ,these nails should fit loosely in the gimlet holes4 ,in order to drive them into the exact centres of the spools1 it is best to locate these points upon the ends of the pegs before placing the spools in the frame4 ,a quarter-inch hole should be bored in the top of the truck-bed at ,g and ,h 7,fig4 #ceh7 in which to fasten the two uprights ,i and ,j 7see ,fig4 #cfj74 ,make the uprights four inches long and whittle a peg upon the lower ends to fit holes ,g and ,h 7see ,fig4 #cfa74 ,bore a hole with a gimlet in the top of each and run a piece of heavy wire from one to the other1 bending it as shown in ,fig4 #cfj4 ,fasten ,k between ,i and ,j1 as shown4 ,place a small brass ring upon the wire before you fasten it in place4 ,a small hook should be screwed into one end of the truck and a screw-eye into the other end for couplings1 should you wish to hitch two or more cars together4 ,a ,gondola ,car1 such as shown in ,fig4 #cfb1 should have its truck made similar to ,fig4 #ceh1 with the exception that it should be two inches shorter1 in order that cigar-box strips can be used for the side-pieces4 ,cut the strips an inch and one-half high and fasten them to the bed of the car with brads4 ,this car may be used as a trailer4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cfb4--;,a ,gondola ,car4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cfc4--,side ,view4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cfd4--;,end ,view4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #cfe-cgc4--;,details of ,toy ,street ,car4 ,the car shown in ,fig4 #cfj is a rather crude affair1 but with a little more work may be transformed into a better-looking car-- ,a ,street ,car such as is shown in ,figs4 #cfc and #cfd being an example of what can be made4 ,the sides1 ends1 and roof of this car are made of cardboard1 the patterns for the cutting of which are shown on page #cci4 ,figure #cfe shows a cross section taken through the centre of the car4 ,the two side-pieces ,a should be first prepared as shown in ,fig4 #cff4 ,with a ruler and lead-pencil draw in the windows about as shown in the drawing1 using double lines to indicate the sash4 ,then1 with a sharp knife1 cut out the centre of each just inside of the inner line4 ,these windows may be left open or may be covered on the inside with tissue-paper4 ,if tissue-paper is used oil it to make it more transparent4 ,when the two sides have been prepared1 bend each along the dotted lines 7see ,fig4 #cff7 and tack one to each side of your car truck as shown in ,fig4 #cfe4 ,when properly bent1 the distance between the upper part of the sides should be two and three-quarters inches4 ,cut the two inner ends of the car the shape of ,fig4 #cfg1 using a compass with a radius of two and one-half inches with which to describe the curve at the top4 ,draw in the panels and sash lines as you did those upon the side-pieces1 being careful to get them on the same level1 and cut out the door and window openings4 ,fasten these end-pieces between the sides with glue1 and also tack them to the uprights of the car 7,i and ,j1 ,fig4 #cfj71 which will come just inside of them4 ,the roof is made in two sections 7,b and ,c1 ,fig4 #cfe74 ,for ,b cut a piece of cardboard twelve and one-quarter by three and three-quarter inches 7,fig4 #cfh71 draw the curved end with a compass1 using the radius shown on the drawing1 and slit the corners as indicated by the dotted lines4 ,when this piece has thus been prepared1 remove the wire from the top of the truck 7see ,fig4 #cfj74 ,bend the cardboard over the sides and ends of the car1 and lap corners ,d and ,e over ,f and ,g1 and ,h and ,i over ,j and ,k1 tacking them with thread to hold them in place4 ,to fasten this part of the roof to the top of the car1 cut a number of small strips of linen1 and glue them to the under side of the roof and to the inside face of the sides and ends of the car 7see ,fig4 #cfe74 ,the upper portion of the roof ,c should be made out of a piece of cardboard bent into the shape of ,fig4 #cfi and cut at the ends so the upper portion of ,c projects a little beyond its sides4 ,draw the ventilation lights upon the sides of ,c as shown on the drawings1 and then fasten the piece upon the top of ,b with strips of linen in the same manner as you fastened ,b in place4 ,c should now have the same curve to its top as ,b4 ,cut and glue a piece of cardboard in each end of ,c to complete the roof4 ,the shape of this piece is shown in ,fig4 #cgj4 ,the outer ends of the car should be made as shown in ,fig4 #cga and tacked around the ends of the wooden truck platform1 and also fastened to the under side of the roof with strips of linen4 ,the window openings may be cut in the ends1 but it will make a stronger car if they are simply drawn upon it4 ,cut four cardboard steps similar to ,fig4 #cgb and tack them to the sides of the front and rear platforms4 ,when the car has been put together1 replace the wire in the tops of uprights ,i and ,j 7,fig4 #cfj71 running the ends through the roof 7see ,fig4 #cfc74 ,paint the sides and ends of the car yellow with brown trimmings1 and paint the roof a light gray4 ,water colors can be used for the purpose4 ,letter the name of your car-line upon the sides and the number of the car upon each end and side4 ,the route should be lettered upon strips of cardboard with pins run through them as shown in ,fig4 #cgc1 these strips to stick in the roof of the car 7see ,figs4 #cfc and #cfd74 ,having seen how the car is made1 you will find it a simple matter to make designs for ,other ,cars1 using the same scheme for the trucks1 and altering the patterns for the sides1 ends1 and roof1 to suit the design4 ,nothing has1 as yet1 been said about the ,operation of the ,railway1 and though ,fig4 #cee probably shows sufficiently clearly how it is run1 a few words may be helpful4 ,the car or cars are placed between the wooden tracks1 and the trolley 7or cord attached to the ring on top of the car7 is tied to the trolley-line as in the illustration4 ,upon starting your engine1 water-motor1 or whatever motive-power you have1 the car will run from one end of the track to the other4 ,when it has reached the support of the trolley-line1 it will stop long enough for the cord trolley to pass around the wooden wheel1 and then run in the opposite direction until the other support is reached4 ,it will thus be seen that the trolley hangs to the upper part of the cable1 or trolley-line1 in running one way1 and to the lower part on the return run4 ,in changing the direction of the run1 the ring to which the trolley is attached slides to the other end of the car4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cgd4--,the ,railway ,depot4 ,a ,station such as is illustrated in ,fig4 #cgd is made out of cardboard and mounted upon a seven-eighths-inch board large enough to form a railway platform4 ,after cutting out the side-and end-pieces1 with door and window openings placed as shown in the illustration1 fasten them together with strips of linen glued in the corners4 ,make the roof low and extend it over the platform upon each side and over the gable-ends1 as shown in the illustration4 ,paint the sides of the depot the regulation depot red1 and the roof a shingle or slate color4 ,paint the door and window-sash black1 letter the name of the station upon the gable-ends1 and with a ruler and lead-pencil rule off the boards upon the sides1 and the slate or shingles upon the roof4 ,as this is a typical railway station1 two may be made of the same pattern1 one for either end of your car line4 ,,chapter ,,xxvi ,,clockwork ,,automobiles ,illustration3 ,children ,play with ,toy ,automobiles4 ,it is generally easy for a boy to get hold of a set of old clockworks1 for a discarded clock of some sort is almost certain to be found in the household storeroom4 ,if the main-spring is intact1 it is highly probable that a little tinkering and cleaning will be sufficient to put the mechanism in working order1 at least so that it can be used for running small engines1 automobiles1 and other mechanical toys that most interest boys4 ,before taking a set of works apart1 it is well to examine it carefully and note the positions of the various springs and wheels1 so it will be possible to put them together again properly should you wish to do so4 ,without taking notice of this1 you are likely to have a handful of wheels as a result1 with which you can do nothing except perhaps convert them into tops4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cgg4--,top ,view of ,wooden ,frame4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cge4 ,,the ,,car ,,completed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cgf4 ,,the ,,framework4 ,the adaption of a set of works to ,an ,automobile ,touring-car is shown in ,figs4 #cge and #cgf1 the former showing the little machine completed and the latter its frame with the clockworks fastened in place4 ,the same scheme as that used for the cars of the toy railway described in the preceding chapter will be followed in making ,the ,frame of the automobile1 as that is about the simplest way1 and makes a light1 easy-running vehicle4 ,the bed will be cut of a different pattern1 however1 as will be seen in ,fig4 #cgg4 ,lay out the piece to the dimensions shown upon this drawing1 and then cut it out1 making a mortise in each end for the wheels to fit in4 ,the spool wheels should be mounted in the same manner as those of the railway cars1 for which see ,fig4 #cei1 ,chapter ,,xxv1 and the directions upon page #cce4 ,one end of spool ,a should be pivoted with a longer finishing nail than those used for the other pivots1 so that when driven in place about half an inch will project beyond the frame4 ,a small silk spool should be fastened upon this for a belt-wheel 7see ,b1 ,fig4 #cgg74 ,the hole in one of these spools is about three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter1 so1 in order to make it fit tightly upon the nail1 it is necessary to fill in around the nail with sealing-wax4 ,to do this1 turn the wooden frame upon its edge and place the spool over the nail1 being careful to get the nail in the exact centre of the hole4 ,then hold a stick of sealing-wax over the spool1 and with a lighted match melt the end and allow it to drip into the hole4 ,when the hole has been partially filled1 allow the wax to harden a little1 and then press it down around the nail with the end of a match1 being careful not to throw the spool out of centre by doing so4 ,the hole should then be filled to the top4 ,we are now ready to prepare the clockworks for mounting upon the wooden frame4 ,the works shown in ,fig4 #cgf are from an alarm clock1 but if you have a striking clock1 or one with works a little different from those shown in the illustration1 it does not make a bit of difference in the scheme for attaching the works4 ,the three parts shown in the foreground of ,fig4 #cgf must first be removed from the works4 ,these will be recognized readily in any clock1 as they are pivoted close together1 and regulate the speed of the other wheels4 ,when they have been removed1 the main-spring will unwind rapidly4 ,the frame of the works shown in the illustration is held together with nuts1 so that in removing the wheels it was necessary to unscrew two of them1 spring the frame open enough to let the wheels drop out1 and then replace the nuts again in their former positions4 ,if the frame of your clockworks is riveted together1 the wheels will have to be broken out4 ,a small silk spool1 such as ,b 7,fig4 #cgg71 should be fastened upon the small pivot which originally operated the clock's hands1 for a belt-wheel4 ,lay the works upon a table with the face-side down1 and1 after centring the hole of the spool upon the pivot1 fasten it in place with sealing-wax in the same manner as you attached spool ,b4 ,the works should now be attached to the wooden frame4 ,place them with the striker uppermost1 near the edge of the frame1 so that the small belt-wheels are in line with one another4 ,then bore a number of gimlet holes in the wooden frame and run copper wire through them1 passing it around the posts of the clock-frame and twisting its ends until the works are firmly fastened in place4 ,a rubber band about an eighth of an inch wide and long enough to reach from one belt-wheel to the other should be procured for ,the ,belt4--,this should stretch just enough to cling upon the spools1 as more than that would cause too much friction4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #cgh-che4--,patterns for the ,automobile ,touring-car4 ,before going any further with the construction of the automobile ,test the ,machine1 to be sure that it is in perfect running order4 ,wind up the main-spring1 pressing a finger against one of the wheels to hold it in check until you are ready to start the machine4 ,when properly made1 the clockwork automobile should run a distance of from twenty to twenty-five feet upon a wooden floor1 while about three-quarters of that distance should be covered upon a floor with a fairly smooth carpet4 ,the ,cardboard ,sides and other details of the automobile should now be made4 ,the pattern for these have been so shown in ,figs4 #cgh-che that they can easily be laid out to the proper shape and size by means of the process of enlarging by squares described on page #aaj1 ,chapter ,,viii4 ,white cardboard should be used upon which to draw these pieces1 and the thinner it is the easier you will find it to work with4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #chf4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #chg4--;,cardboard ,side of ,automobile4 ,first prepare the two sides1 cutting them out by the pattern of ,fig4 #cgh4 ,then glue the bottom edge of each side to the edge of the wooden frame1 cutting holes in the left side for the belt-wheels and projecting posts to run through 7see ,fig4 #cge and ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 and ,e1 ,fig4 #chg74 ,the top to the front of the car should now be cut as shown in ,fig4 #chh1 the distance between the sides being measured to get the piece of proper dimensions4 ,bend the edges as in ,fig4 #chh1 and glue them to the inner surfaces of the side-pieces as shown by the dotted lines in ,fig4 #chg4 ,in the same way cut and glue a piece of cardboard between the side-pieces at ,g and ,h 7,fig4 #chg7 for the seat-backs4 ,the bent edges of these pieces are shown by dotted lines in the illustration4 ,draw four ,wheels as shown in ,fig4 #cgi1 using a compass with which to describe the circles1 and cut them out with a sharp knife4 ,you can cut out between the spokes1 if you wish1 or leave them solid4 ,glue the wheels to the cardboard1 placing their centres about as located at ,i and ,j1 ,fig4 #chg4 ,four ,mud-guards should be cut like ,fig4 #chj1 with flaps made along one edge4 ,then bend these guards around the tops of the wheels1 and1 after applying glue to the flaps1 press them against the cardboard side1 holding your fingers upon the flaps until the glue has dried 7see ,fig4 #cge74 ,the guards should be placed a little above the tops of the wheels4 ,cut four ,lamps like ,fig4 #cha1 and glue end ,k of two upon the front of the automobile at ,l 7,fig4 #chg7 and one of the other two upon each side at ,m4 ,these lamps are shown in position in the illustration of the completed automobile 7,fig4 #cge74 ,draw and cut ,the ,steering-wheel similarly to ,fig4 #chb1 and1 after pivoting it to the end of a strip of cardboard with a pin1 as shown in ,fig4 #chi1 bend the lower end and glue it to the under side of the cardboard top ,f at ,n 7see ,fig4 #chg1 also ,fig4 #cge74 ,make a ,horn like ,fig4 #chc1 and glue it to the steering-wheel as shown in ,fig4 #chi4 ,a strip of cardboard about the size of that used for the upright of the steering-wheel should be cut for ,the ,brake1 and glued to the inside surface of the right side of the car at ,o 7,fig4 #chg74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #chh4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #chi4--,the ,steering-wheel4 ,the ,chauffeur should now be made4 ,cut his head and body the shape and size of ,fig4 #chd1 drawing the face upon each side with goggles over the eyes4 ,cut the arms in two pieces the shape of ,p and ,q 7,fig4 #che71 and then pivot ,p to ,q at ,r and the end of ,q to the shoulder of the body at ,s1 using thread for fastening the pieces together4 ,paint the hat1 coat1 sleeves1 and gloves a leather color1 and the face flesh color4 ,the body should then be fastened to the hammer of the clockworks with sealing-wax1 as shown in ,fig4 #chf1 while the left hand should be glued to the edge of the steering-wheel and the right to the end of the brake 7see ,fig4 #cge74 ,by thus attaching the body to the end of the hammer1 and winding up the small spring1 the chauffeur will shake violently when the auto runs across the floor1 showing the vibrations of the machine in a greatly exaggerated and amusing manner4 ,it is now only necessary to ,paint the ,machine to complete it4 ,the photograph 7,fig4 #cge7 indicates the different colors used4 ,the lamps1 and top1 ends1 and sides of the front portion of the car should be painted the color of brass1 and the rest of the sides1 with the exception of a strip along the bottom and the edge of the arms1 should be painted vermilion4 ,paint the inside of the car and the edges of the seat-arms tan color1 to represent leather upholstering4 ,with black paint1 or ink1 stripe off the door and trimmings upon the sides and top of the machine1 as shown in ,figs4 #cge1 #chg1 and #chh4 ,blacken the brake and steering-wheel and the spokes and rims of the wheels4 ,along the bottom of each side roughly indicate some machinery with black paint1 about as it is drawn in ,fig4 #chg4 ,when you have tired of your touring-car1 you can easily convert it into ,an ,automobile ,delivery ,wagon1 such as illustrated in ,fig4 #cij4 ,to make this you will require the same frame as that used for the touring-car1 with the clockworks and belt-wheels attached in the same manner4 ,if you have made the touring-car1 remove the cardboard sides from its wooden frame1 separating the cardboard from the wood carefully1 so you can put the machine together again when you wish4 ,if you haven't made this automobile1 you will find the details for the construction of the frame in ,figs4 #cgf and #cgg1 and the manner of performing the work described on pages #cdc to #cdf4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cij4--;,an ,automobile ,delivery ,wagon4 ,the ,cardboard ,sides are much easier to prepare than those for the touring-car1 as they are straight and require but little cutting4 ,the outline for these is shown in ,fig4 #cij1 surrounding the drawing of the completed wagon4 ,lay out one side upon a piece of cardboard1 using the dimensions given upon the drawing1 and then place it upon a board and cut it out with your knife4 ,using this as a pattern1 place it upon another piece of cardboard and run a pencil around its edges1 thus marking out the second side4 ,in cutting out the latter piece1 run your knife a little inside of the line in order to allow for the increase in size caused by marking it out with the first cardboard side4 ,having prepared the two sides1 draw panels upon them in some such form as shown in the illustration1 separating them with three lines4 ,draw a small window1 with its top slightly arched1 near the front edge of each side1 and cut an opening for it 7see illustration74 ,glue the sides to the edges of the truck in the same manner as those of the touring-car were done1 piercing holes for the posts of the clockworks to fit in1 and openings for the belt-wheels to project through1 in the left side4 ,cut a piece of cardboard for the back of the wagon1 fit it between the sides1 and fasten it in place by gluing a number of linen strips to it and the sides upon the inner or unexposed surfaces4 ,then cut a piece of cardboard for the roof1 making it about two inches longer than the sides1 to give it the proper projection over the front of the wagon4 ,fasten this piece in position in the same manner as you fastened the back of the wagon4 ,make the floor and footboard for the wagon out of a piece of cardboard bent as shown in ,fig4 #cij1 and fasten it across the top edges of the projecting portions of the sides with linen strips4 ,cut a strip for a seat1 and fit it between the sides an inch and one-half above the floor4 ,the ,wheels of an automobile wagon contain fourteen spokes1 but as you have the pattern for the touring-car wheels of twelve spokes1 you can just as well use it in making the wagon wheels4 ,they should be mounted upon the sides of the wagon1 a trifle above the bottoms of the spool wheels1 as shown in the illustration1 so they will not touch the carpet when the machine is operated4 ,all ,other ,portions of the wagon should be made of the same patterns given for the touring-car1 viz4 the chauffeur 7,figs4 #chd and #che71 the steering-wheel 7,figs4 #chb and #chi71 the brake 7,fig4 #cge71 and the lamps 7,fig4 #cha74 ,as the legs of the chauffeur will show1 it will be necessary to cut a pair out of cardboard 7the drawing shows the shape clearly enough to work by7 and fasten them to his body4 ,fasten the chauffeur upon the seat and glue his left hand to the steering-wheel1 placing the latter in front of him1 as shown in the drawing4 ,stick the lower end of the cardboard upright of the steering-wheel upon a pin run through the wagon floor from the under side4 ,glue the upper end of the brake to the chauffeur's hand and the lower end to the side of the wagon4 ,paint the ,wagon with water colors1 making the sides1 end1 and roof olive green1 the steering-wheel1 brake1 and spokes of wheels black1 and the lamps yellow or the color of brass4 ,in painting the sides show the battery compartments upon them below what would properly be the bottom of the wagon 7see illustration74 ,leave the cardboard white below this box1 as it represents no portion of the machine1 but is necessarily brought down so far to conceal the wooden frame4 ,it will give the machine a more finished appearance if1 after painting1 you go over it with black paint and a fine brush and stripe the panels upon the sides1 following the lines which you drew upon them with a pencil4 ,letter the word ,delivery upon the centre panel of each side1 and the firm name in the small panel between the lamp and window4 ,by attaching a set of clockworks in the same manner as described for the automobiles1 you can make ,a ,clockwork ,railway1 constructing the cars similarly to the street car shown in ,fig4 #cfc1 ,chapter ,,xxv1 and using the schemes in the same chapter for the tracks and depots4 ,,chapter ,,xxvii ,,work ,,to ,,do ,,with ,a ,,knife ,illustration3 ,boy ,sharpening ,knife4 ,a number of years ago a friend of the writer paid a visit to a large penitentiary where the prisoners were engaged in the manufacture of boots and shoes4 ,among the workers he became particularly interested in a small ,german boy who was industriously marking the backs of boots with the lot numbers always to be found upon these goods4 ,the boy didn't have an ink bottle near him1 and yet1 with what appeared to be a wooden stick1 was marking the numbers in ink4 ,a closer inspection disclosed the fact that the pointed stick held by the lad was nothing more or less than ,a ,home-made ,fountain ,pen4--,upon seeing that the visitor was struck with the novelty of the affair1 the superintendent presented him with one of the pens and told him of its origin4 ,the pen was the invention of a forger who was placed in this department of the prison1 and when its good qualities were seen it was very quickly adopted by all of the prisoners in place of the pointed stick and ink-bottle they had been using4 ,the pen is shown in ,fig4 #cia4 ,it is made out of a piece of elderberry wood about five inches long1 a small glass vial1 and a piece of sponge4 ,first push out the pith of the piece of elderberry wood 7this you will find easily removed71 and then point one end pen-shape1 as shown in the illustration1 and split it back from the point about an inch in the same manner as a writing pen is made4 ,whittle the other end of the stick so it will fit tightly in the neck of the glass vial4 ,this bottle1 or reservoir1 should be filled with ink1 and a small piece of the sponge you have procured should be pushed into the hollow of the pen above the point 7see illustration71 as a means of preventing the ink from flowing too freely upon the point4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cia4--;,a ,home-made ,fountain ,pen4 ,although the pen was originally made with a coarse point for marking heavy figures1 you will find that it can be made to write to a reasonable degree of fineness by whittling a fine point upon it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cib4--,the ,magic ,pin-wheel4 ,the ,magic ,pin-wheel represented by ,fig4 #cib can be made with a few minutes' work1 and is something entirely new in the line of magic toys4 ,there are probably few persons who will understand this simple yet mysterious toy when they see it properly operated1 until the secret is disclosed to them4 ,as you will see by looking at the drawing1 the pin-wheel consists of nothing more than a stick notched along one edge1 and a thin piece of wood about an inch in length fastened through its centre to the end of the stick by means of a pin4 ,in cutting the notches it is important to make them of the same length and depth4 ,locate the exact centre of the chip of wood before pivoting it to the end of the stick1 and with your knife make a small hole for the pin to run through at this point4 ,be careful to drive the pin in straight4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cic4--;,how to operate the ,pin-wheel4 ,to ,operate the pin-wheel1 hold the stick in the left hand as illustrated in ,fig4 #cic1 and then1 taking a coin in the right hand1 rub it vigorously across the notches4 ,the vibration produced by rubbing the stick causes the small pin-wheel to revolve about its pin axis4 ,the funny part of the performance is the fact that you can have perfect control over the wheel1 and change the direction of its course at will1 if you but master one little trick performed with the first and second fingers of the right hand4 ,in holding the coin between the thumb and first finger of the right hand1 allow the end of the first finger to extend over the top of the stick and bring the second finger close to the side of it1 as shown in the illustration 7,fig4 #cic74 ,to make the wheel revolve from left to right1 allow the end of the first finger to rub along the top edge of the notches2 then1 to reverse the direction1 relieve the pressure of this finger1 and press the second finger against the other edge of the notches4 ,at first you may not be able to make the wheel obey your commands1 but with a little practice you will find it a simple matter to make it change its direction without any one noticing how you perform the magical trick4 ,a ,brass ,tack driven into the stick a little below the notches1 about the point where the thumb of your left hand will strike1 will add to the mystic appearance of the pin-wheel4 ,a person invariably notices this the first thing when he sees you operate the wheel 7you can make it a point to press your left thumb against the tack71 and thinks he has solved the trick4 ,but when you let him have the toy1 he will soon find out that all his pressing and pulling upon the tack will have no effect upon the wheel1 and beg you to put him on to the trick4 ,a ,wooden ,chain and ,rattle has long been one of the most interesting pieces of work a boy can make with his jack-knife1 and1 inasmuch as the making of one requires careful cutting1 the exercise is a good test of a boy's skill with this handy tool4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cid4 ,,fig4 #cie4 ,,fig4 #cif4 ,details of a ,wooden ,chain and ,rattle4 ,in making the first chain and rattle1 you had better use a pine block1 as hard wood is not so easy for a beginner to handle4 ,therefore1 for a first attempt1 select a piece of sound pine free from blemishes1 and plane it down to the dimensions1 seventeen inches long1 two inches wide1 and two inches thick4 ,with a lead-pencil mark off ten divisions one inch apart1 running the lines around the four sides of the block 7see ,fig4 #cid74 ,then draw two lines lengthwise on each side of the block1 as shown at ,,ab and ,,cd1 making them one-half inch apart and three-quarters of an inch from each edge4 ,with a chisel1 cut out the four corners of the block down to the tenth line1 as represented by the shading in ,fig4 #cid4 ,the ,chain is to be cut out of the remaining core1 one link out of every two divisions4 ,commencing at the top of the block1 remove the shaded portions ,t and ,u 7,fig4 #cie71 as those would form only half links2 then notch out the shaded corners marked ,x in the drawing1 and gradually cut the core into circular links4 ,having finished this operation1 draw a circle inside of each link1 and cut out the wood inside of it4 ,round the edges of the links as shown in the drawing of the finished chain 7,fig4 #cif74 ,your success in making a good chain will depend largely upon a good1 sharp knife and careful cutting4 ,with a dull knife you are almost certain to split the links when separating one from another4 ,the ,rattle is to be made from the lower portion of the block4 ,this part of the figure is more difficult to cut than the chain4 ,first draw the two lines marked ,,hi and ,,jk in ,fig4 #cid one-half inch from the edges2 then draw the cross lines ,,lm1 ,,no1 ,,pq1 and ,,rs1 as shown in the illustration4 ,these lines should be similarly drawn upon the other three sides of the block4 ,remove the wood from the spaces shaded in the drawing1 and you will then have left a centre solid block from which to cut the ball4 ,gently round the corners of this1 and then gradually separate it from the surrounding framework4 ,when this has been accomplished1 the centre block will slip up and down4 ,now continue cutting the block until it is a perfect round ball1 but be careful not to make it small enough to fall out of the frame1 for that would spoil the entire piece of work4 ,after completing the cutting1 sand-paper the links and rattle until they are perfectly smooth4 ,then oil the wood or give it a coat of varnish4 ,,chapter ,,xxviii ,,cork ,,toys ,illustration3 ,materials ,needed and ,finished ,articles4 ,it is surprising the number of small toys that can be made out of corks of different shapes and sizes with the aid of glue1 pins1 burnt matches1 worsted1 and cardboard4 ,even though a boy has passed the kindergarten age1 he will find this work entertaining for days when the weather is disagreeable without2 and though he may not care to play with them himself1 his work will not have been wasted1 for a younger brother will surely be glad to have some cork animals and birds to add to his menagerie1 and a sister no less delighted with a small log-cabin and set of cork furniture4 ,flat and tapered corks can probably be found about the house on old jars and bottles1 while the straight variety can be procured at any drug-store4 ,in buying the latter ask for ,no4 #i1 inch and one-half1 straight1 common corks1 half a gross of which will cost about twenty-five cents4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cig4--,the ,pig4 ,cork ,animals are peculiar-looking beasts of abnormal proportions1 but all sorts of magical feats are performed by toy makers1 and such wonders as ,a ,pig that can boast of a body as large as that of an elephant is commonly found among the so-called ,noah's ark animals4 ,to make a pig1 first draw its head1 as in the drawing of ,fig4 #cig1 upon a piece of cardboard1 and then1 after cutting it out1 select a straight cork and make a slit in one end of it in which to stick the head4 ,a little glue applied to the cardboard will hold the head in place4 ,the pig's feet consist of four pieces of burnt matches pointed at the ends and stuck into the cork as shown in ,fig4 #cig1 while the tail is formed of a piece of copper wire curled at one end and stuck into the cork4 ,when the pig has been made1 paint its head and feet to match its body4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cih4--,the ,horse4 ,a ,horse requires a cork of the same shape as that used for the pig4 ,cut the head out of cardboard and glue it in a slit made in the end of the cork 7see ,fig4 #cih74 ,dip the ends of four burnt matches in glue and stick them in the cork for legs1 and fasten a few pieces of worsted in a hole made in the end of the cork for the tail4 ,a piece of thread should be fastened about the animal's neck for reins4 ,after making the horse1 take another straight cork for ,the ,elephant1 and cut the head1 trunk1 ears1 and tusks out of a piece of cardboard as shown in the illustration 7,fig4 #cii74 ,cut the tail out of another piece of cardboard1 and glue it in a slit made in the end of the cork4 ,the legs are1 of course1 larger around than those of the horse1 and1 as matches will be too slender1 whittle four short wooden pegs for them4 ,point these pegs at one end1 and1 after dipping them in glue1 stick them into the cork4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cii4--,the ,elephant4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #djj4--,the ,giraffe4 ,the ,giraffe is just as simple to make as any of the animals1 for he is put together in the same manner1 except that a tapered cork is used for the body4 ,the head and neck are made in one piece of cardboard 7see illustration71 and a piece of worsted forms the tail4 ,when you have painted the head and neck a tan color to match the cork1 and marked a number of brown spots upon the body1 this tall and most graceful of animals will appear very life-like4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dja4--,the ,korka-bird4 ,a ,porcupine is simple to make out of a long1 straight cork with toothpicks cut into small pieces for quills1 and stuck into the cork as close as you can place them4 ,the head and other portions of this animal can easily be made with the aid of a natural history1 and it will be a simple matter to devise ,other ,animals upon the same schemes as those just described1 by consulting the pictures in one of these books4 ,it is not necessary to always copy a real animal4 ,use your ingenuity and see what queer-looking creatures you can make4 ,figure #dja gives a suggestion for one of these1 which we will call ,the ,korka-bird4--,you will see by looking at the drawing that the two legs are made of matches1 the lower ends of which are stuck into a piece of cork for a standard2 and the neck consists of a burnt match stuck into the end of the cork with its upper end split to receive the cardboard head4 ,a small chicken-feather stuck into the top of the head 7the cardboard being split enough to receive it71 two others in the back1 and a fourth in the end of the cork compose all the plumage this wonderful bird can boast of1 but this lack of feathers is more than made up by a beautiful head1 neck1 body1 and legs1 which are gilded4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #djb4--,the ,duck4 ,as a suggestion of what can be made in the way of water toys1 ,a ,duck is shown in ,fig4 #djb4 ,the body for this consists of a cork split in half1 the head is cut out of a piece of cigar-box1 and a small tin keel is fastened to the centre of the under side of the body4 ,a few chicken feathers will form the tail4 ,glue1 of course1 cannot be used upon the duck1 as it would soften in water1 so the pieces composing it will have to be fastened together by means of pins4 ,other water toys1 such as ,canoes1 consisting of a cork split in half1 lengthwise1 with the inside scooped out by means of your knife1 are made with a few minutes' work1 and these can be transformed into ,small ,sail-boats by sticking a toothpick in the bow for a mast and rigging a tiny sail upon it4 ,cork ,furniture is not a new idea for toys1 but1 inasmuch as many have never heard of them1 a few examples of what can be made in this line have been introduced in this chapter4 ,for ,a ,chair1 such as shown in ,fig4 #djc1 find a flat cork1 and stick four pins in one side for legs1 and five pins fairly close together in the other side for the chair-back 7see illustration74 ,when the pins have been properly placed1 take some worsted and wind it around each of the four legs1 crossing from one to another as shown in the drawing1 thus forming the chair-rounds4 ,also weave the worsted in and out around the pins forming the chair-back as in the drawing1 so that all but the heads of the pins are covered when the operation is completed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #djc4--;,chair4 ,the ,sofa1 illustrated in ,fig4 #djd1 is made after the same manner4 ,split a straight cork lengthwise for the seat1 placing it flat-side up1 and stick pins around three edges of it upon which to wind the worsted4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #djd4--,sofa4 ,a ,small ,tabouret is shown in ,fig4 #dje4 ,select a straight cork for the base of this1 and1 after seeing that a good sharp edge is upon your knife1 slice the cork lengthwise1 making it hexagonal in shape4 ,then stick six pins in the cork near the upper edge1 placing one in each of the six edges 7see illustration74 ,when this has been done1 weave worsted upon the pins in the same manner as the chair-back was formed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dje4 ,tabouret4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #djf4--;,a ,cork ,log-cabin4 ,a ,toy ,log-cabin1 or slab-hut1 as it would properly be called1 as the building is first put up and then covered with corks split in half for slabs1 is illustrated in ,fig4 #djf4 ,a cardboard box should be procured out of which to make this little building1 the proportion of which will determine the shape and size4 ,turn the box bottom side up1 and on it construct a gable-roof4 ,cut two pieces of cardboard large enough to make a good projection over the ends of the building1 and fasten them to the bottom of the box as shown in the drawing1 gluing a number of linen strips to the pieces to hold them securely in place4 ,two pieces of cardboard should be cut to fit the gable-ends1 and glued in place with linen strips4 ,cut windows in each side of the box and a door in each end4 ,having completed the little cardboard cabin1 split enough straight corks in half lengthwise to cover the walls4 ,sharpen your knife well before commencing this work1 so the corks will cut evenly and without breaking4 ,begin gluing these half corks along the bottom of the walls1 fitting them end to end as shown in the drawing1 and placing one row above another4 ,fit them neatly around the windows and door openings1 and if they do not space out as evenly as shown in the illustration1 cut some shorter pieces to fill in4 ,the corks will quickly adhere to the cardboard if you press your finger against each for a second or two after placing it in position4 ,the roof may be painted to represent boards or shingles1 and a cork stuck in it as shown in the illustration will form the chimney4 ,cover the window openings with paper4 ,tissue-paper will admit more light than ordinary writing-paper1 so probably will be the better material4 ,hinge a piece of cardboard to the jamb of each door opening1 using small pieces of linen for hinges4 ,rule a few vertical lines upon the doors to represent the boards4 ,all that now remains to be done to complete the cabin is the mounting1 for which a seven-eighths-inch board should be procured4 ,use linen strips to fasten the cabin upon this board1 placing them upon the inside surfaces of the walls1 which can be reached by running your hand through the door openings4 ,,chapter ,,xxix ,,definitions ,,of ,,terms ,,and ,,phrases ,illustration3 ,selection of ,books4 ,the terms and phrases used in describing the work included in this book have been arranged alphabetically in this chapter1 together with their definitions4 ,this has been done for the purpose of furnishing a boy with a handy reference1 with definitions in a clear and simple form1 covering only such points as apply to his particular kind of work4 ,abbreviations d stands for penny4 ,e4 ,g4 #af;d stands for sixteen-penny nails 7see page #cf74 ,i4e4 or i4e4 stands for that is4 ,e4 ,g4 or e4g4 stands for for example4 ,viz4 or viz4 stands for namely1 to wit4 stands for inch or inches4 ,e4 ,g4 #b means two inches4 ' stands for foot or feet4 ,e4 ,g4 #b' means two feet4 etc4 stands for and so forth4 ,abutting ,surface4--,next or adjoining4 ,animated ,animals4--,animals 7such as those used in the back-yard circus7 which are constructed and then given life4 ,in the case of the circus animals1 the boys who enclose themselves in the bodies furnish the animals with life4 ,bait-stick4--,a stick in a trap1 upon which the bait is placed4 ,it is also known as the trigger4 ,baluster4 ,see ,balustrade4 ,balustrade4--,a series of small spindles or posts 7,balusters71 to the tops of which a bar 7,hand ,rail7 is attached1 placed along the sides of stairs and around stair openings4 ,the hand rail is supported at either end by a post 7,newel ,post74 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,figs4 #ga and #ge4 ,also applied to a solid wall built up the sides of a stairway and around the stair openings4 ,batten ,door4--,a door formed by joining the boards together with battens4 ,battens4--,strips of wood1 or cleats1 fastened across two or more boards to hold them together1 as in making a cover or door4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,figs4 #ae1 #ahi1 and #aid4 ,bevel4--,formed by cutting off the sharp edge of a board or any piece of work4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #bh4 ,a tool used for laying out bevels ,bird's ,mouth4--,a notch1 ,v-shaped1 or the form of a bird's mouth1 cut in a piece of work4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #h4 ,blind-nailing4 ,see page #cd4 ,brace4--,a strip1 board1 or heavier piece fastened across two or more pieces to strengthen and steady them2 a diagonal strip4 ,bracket4--,a support1 generally triangular in shape1 screwed or nailed to a wall or object to hold up such things as shelves and cabinets4 ,broom-wire4--,the fine wire which is bound around brooms to hold the straw to the end of the broom-stick4 ,bull's-eye4--,the centre ring of a target4 ,butt-joint4--,when the square end of one piece of wood butts or sets against another piece1 the joint formed is known as a butt-joint4 ,the pieces are not cut into as in the case of making other joints4 ,casings4--,the finishing strips placed around door and window openings4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,figs4 #he1 #hh1 and #hi4 ,they are also known as ,trim4 ,chair ,rail4--,a narrow board fastened around the walls of a room at a height equal to that of an ordinary chair-back4 ,chamfer4--,formed by cutting off the sharp edge of a board4 ,it is much the same as a bevel 7see ,fig4 #bh71 but the term is more often applied to cases where the bevel is stopped1 instead of running the entire length of the edge1 and its ends rounded up to meet the square edge of the board4 ,this form of chamfer is used for ornamental purposes1 and is known as a ,stop ,chamfer4 ,figure #bi shows a form of chamfer used in planing end-wood4 ,cleats4--,strips of wood fastened to others to strengthen them2 or strips secured to an object for the purpose of supporting a shelf or drawers4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,figs4 #ae and #adh2 also descriptions relating to same4 ,clinching ,nails4 ,see page #cd4 ,corbelled ,brick4--,several courses 7layers7 of brick so laid that each projects a little beyond1 or comes a little within1 the course below4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see corbelled chimney for doll-house1 ,fig4 #ajc1 ,chapter ,,vi4 ,corner ,stone4--,a stone placed in the corner of a foundation4 ,cornucopi4--,the plural for cornucopia2 made by rolling paper or other material into the shape of cones or funnels4 ,countersunk4 ,see ,screws on page #cf4 ,cross-piece4--,a piece that crosses another2 a piece fastened in a horizontal or oblique position1 and extended from one piece to another4 ,cross ,section4 ,see ,section4 ,details4--,the parts of which a thing consists2 a ,detailed ,drawing is usually a working drawing1 showing all the parts of a piece of work1 with dimensions marked upon them4 ,diagonal4--,a strip1 board1 or heavier piece fastened in an oblique1 or slanted1 position--used in bracing 7see ,bracing of ,toboggan ,platform ,framework1 ,fig4 #caj72 also a line drawn obliquely to another line1 several lines1 or an object4 ,diagonally4--,in a diagonal direction4 ,diameter4--,the distance equal to a straight line passing through the centre of a circle or a circular object1 terminated at both ends by the circumference1 or the curved surface4 ,door ,frame4--,the wooden frame built in a door opening for the door to swing in4 ,for definition of ,jambs1 ,sill1 and ,head1 see ,window ,frame4 ,door-stops4--,wooden strips nailed around the ,jambs and ,head of a door frame1 for the door to swing against1 and to make a tight joint between the door and frame4 ,dovetail-joint4--,a tongue1 undercut so as to make it wedge-shaped 7somewhat the shape of a dove's tail71 is prepared upon one piece1 and a mortise1 the shape and size of this tongue1 is cut in the other piece for it to set into4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,figs4 #bji and #baj1 and text on page #baj1 ,chapter ,,xv4 ,dowelling4--,a process of securing together two edges or faces of a piece of work with pins of wood or metal4 ,holes are bored in the edges or faces of the pieces1 and wooden pegs are cut to fit them4 ,these pegs are coated with glue and then driven into place4 ,the edges or faces of the pieces are also covered with glue1 and if the pieces have been properly planed so as to fit together perfectly1 a tight joint will be obtained when the glue has dried4 ,the work should be clamped until the glue has dried4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #ed4 ,for nails used as dowels1 see ,fig4 #ceg4 ,dowels4--,the pegs or pins used in dowelling4 ,dressed4--,after lumber has been planed at a mill1 it is known as dressed stuff4 ,a board may be dressed to the proper dimensions1 that is1 prepared either by sawing1 planing1 paring1 or scraping4 ,driving ,home a ,nail4--,the act of applying the finishing strokes of a hammer upon the head of a nail in driving it into wood 7see ,driving ,nails1 page #cb74 ,drop4--,a piece of scenery hung from the ,gridiron above the stage4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,figs4 #cca1 #ccb1 and #cdj4 ,elevation4--,a straight ,side or ,end view of an object4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #bjf4 ,em4--,a square type4 ,used as a unit in measuring type4 ,the letter m in type originally had a square end4 ,en4--,a type half an em in width4 ,end-plate4--,a timber1 such as a two-by-four or two-by-six1 placed across the tops of the studs in the end of a framework1 for the roof rafters or the floor joists above to rest upon4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #ahd4 ,when placed across the studs in the side of a framework it is known as a ,side-plate4 ,end-wood4--,wood which has been cut across the grain and shows the ends of the grain upon its surface4 ,e4 ,g4 ,the end of a stick4 ,equidistant4--,equally distant4 ,finishing ,nail4--,a nail with a small head used on surfaces to be exposed1 where it is desirable to make as small nail holes as possible4 ,the finishing nail is very handy for all kinds of small work4 ,fishing4--,an operation where two or more pieces are joined together1 end to end1 by means of strips 7known as ,fish-plates7 nailed or screwed across the joints4 ,it is also known as a ,fish-joint1 and is a common form of splice4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #ahc4 ,flange4--,a projecting rim such as the edge of a spool4 ,flush4--,a surface of a board is said to be flush with the surface of another when those boards are so placed together that the two surfaces are even1 or extend along the same line or plane4 ,font4--,an assortment of type of one size and style1 including a certain number of each letter in the alphabet 7large and small71 punctuation marks1 and such characters as are necessary in printing4 ,spaces and ,quads are sold separately4 ,foundation4--,the base upon which a building rests4 ,usually made of stone1 brick1 or posts1 and placed below the surface of the ground4 ,gable-end4--,that portion of a wall which extends into the angle formed by a gable or gambrel roof4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,figs4 #fd1 #gg1 #if1 and #aji4 ,gauge of ,tracks4--,the distance between the tracks4 ,grease ,paint4--,a paint for the purpose of making-up the face in preparation for a circus or entertainment of some sort4 ,prepared of a composition easily removed1 and free from injurious substances4 ,gridiron4--,the framework above the stage from which the scenery drops are suspended4 ,the framework consists of a series of parallel bars resembling a gridiron4 ,groove4--,a channel or hollow cut in a piece of wood4 ,in a tongued-and-grooved board it is the hollow in which the tongue fits4 ,halving4 ,see ,fig4 #bfg2 also description on page #bei4 ,this joint is also known as a ,halved-joint4 ,hand ,rail4 ,see ,balustrade4 ,hem4--,the edge of a piece of cloth doubled over and sewed1 to strengthen it and prevent the threads from ravelling4 ,hexagonal4--,six-sided4 ,horizontal4--,parallel to the horizon4 ,hornstone4--,a variety of quartz having the appearance of flint1 but more brittle4 ,kerf4--,the opening1 or narrow slot1 made in sawing4 ,latch-pocket4 ,see ,spring-catch4 ,lath4--,a strip approximately one and one-half inches wide1 three-eighths of an inch thick1 and four feet long4 ,nailed across the walls and ceiling of a room upon which to place plaster4 ,locking-up4--,the process of tightening a form of type so as to hold it together 7see description1 page #acf74 ,longitudinal ,section4 ,see ,section4 ,making-up4--,painting the face as a disguise or to show expression marks4 ,mitre4--,the end of a board is mitred when cut off at an angle of forty-five degrees4 ,although applied to other angles1 the term mitre is understood to mean a forty-five degree cut1 unless otherwise stated 7see ,bench-hook1 ,fig4 #aa1 and ,mitre-box1 ,fig4 #ab1 ,chapter ,i2 also descriptions of their use74 ,mitred ,try-square4--,used for laying off mitres 7see ,figs4 #ch and #ci1 ,chapter ,,ii74 ,mortise4--,a slot or cavity made in a piece of wood to receive the end of another piece4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,figs4 #bjh1 #baj1 #baa1 ,chapter ,,xv4 ,bevelled ,mortise4--,a mortise with its bottom or sides bevelled4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #aj1 ,chapter ,i4 ,mould4--,something which serves to give the proper form to an object4 ,e4 ,g4 ,the mould for shaping a canvas canoe1 ,fig4 #bjd1 ,chapter ,,xv4 ,newel ,post4 ,see ,balustrade4 ,notch4--,a hollow cut in anything2 a nick2 an indentation4 ,to ,notch4--,to cut in small hollows1 as to notch a stick4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #aia1 ,chapter ,,xiv1 and ,fig4 #cib1 ,chapter ,,xxvii4 ,obsidian4--,a form of lava4 ,on ,centres4--,in spacing studs or strips of any kind1 they are spoken of as being placed a certain number of inches on centres4 ,e4 ,g4 ,twelve inches on centres means that the distance from the centre of one piece to the centre of another is twelve inches4 ,out of ,plumb4--,not vertical2 not perpendicular to the horizon4 ,out of ,square4--,askew2 oblique2 not true4 ,parallel4--,lines or objects are parallel to one another when they have the same direction1 and all corresponding points are equidistant from one another4 ,perpendicular4--,vertical2 plumb2 in an upright position4 ,perspective4--,a perspective is a drawing showing an object in the form in which it appears to the eye4 ,the lines converge1 or approach nearer together1 as they go away from the eye1 until they finally meet at a point on the horizon1 or a line drawn to represent the horizon4 ,e4 ,g4 ,in looking down a railway track the telegraph poles and tracks appear to run together on the line of the horizon4 ,pica4--,the standard of measurement in printing4 ,a name given to a size of type which measures one-sixth of an inch high 7measured from the nicked side to the side opposite72 and seventy-two ems 7see ,em7 measure one foot4 ,pie4--,a mixed assortment of type4 ,see page #ace1 ,chapter ,,ix4 ,pieing ,type or ,making ,pie4--,spilling or mixing up type4 ,pipe-straps4--,iron straps used mostly by pipe-fitters to fasten gas-piping in place4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,figs4 #cba and #cbb4 ,pitch4--,the pitch of a board is the degree to which it has been tilted4 ,plan4--,a drawing showing a view of an object1 looking down upon it1 either on top of it 7e4 g4 see ,figs4 #bje and #bjg71 or with the upper portion sliced off 7e4 g4 see ,fig4 #aij4 ,this shows a plan of the log-cabin at a level of the door and windows1 with the upper portion removed74 ,plank4--,lumber two inches or more in thickness is known as planks or planking4 ,anything of less thickness is known as boards4 ,plumb4--,perpendicular2 vertical2 true4 ,an instrument for determining whether or not an object is plumb 7see ,fig4 #ad1 ,chapter ,i74 ,proscenium4--,the front portion of a stage4 ,the ,proscenium ,arch is the arch or frame extending around the front of the stage of a theatre4 ,pumice ,stone4--,a porous rock1 of extreme lightness1 used for polishing metals2 for smoothing the surface of wood2 and for smoothing the surface of a coat of paint before applying a second coat 7see ,painting of ,canvas ,canoe1 page #bad74 ,pyrotechnics4--,the art of making fireworks2 fireworks2 the composition and use of fireworks4 ,quad4--,an abbreviation for quadrat4 ,a block of type-metal lower than the type1 used for filling out lines1 and for spacing between lines4 ,a #b-;em quad is two ems in width1 and a #c-;em quad three ems in width4 ,quartz4--,glassy crystals1 having the form of a six-sided prism1 terminated at each end by a pyramid4 ,it is colorless1 or transparent1 when pure1 and more or less opaque and in various colors when impure4 ,quoins4--,the wedges used to tighten or lock-up a form of type4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,figs4 #aee and #aef4 ,rabbet4--,a groove or hollow cut in a piece of work1 generally for the purpose of joining it with some other material4 ,e4 ,g4 ,the sides of the bow and stern pieces of the ,canvas ,canoe described in ,chapter ,,xv are rabbeted so the ribbands and the edge of the canvas will fit in them 7see ,figs4 #bjj and #bjb1 ,chapter ,,xv74 ,radius4--,the distance from the centre of a circle to any point upon its circumference4 ,it equals one-half of the length of the diameter4 ,rasp4--,a file with coarse teeth1 used for working upon wood4 ,recess4--,a niche in a wall2 a space or opening formed by the wall setting in a little way4 ,renforce4--,to strengthen2 to supply additional strength with strips or braces4 ,ridge4--,an edge of a roof formed by the meeting of two sloping surfaces4 ,the top edge of a peaked roof4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #aib1 ,chapter ,,xiv4 ,ridge-boards4--,the boards fastened along the ridge of a roof to cover the joint4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #aib1 ,chapter ,,xiv4 ,right ,angle4--,an angle of ninety degrees4 ,at ,right ,angles4--,so as to form a right angle4 ,rubbing ,down4--,bringing to a smooth surface by rubbing with sand-paper1 emery-paper1 or pumice stone4 ,rustic4--,made of limbs of trees in their natural form4 ,sagging4--,the bending of a body by its own weight1 or by a load placed upon it4 ,sapling4--,a young tree4 ,sash4--,the frame which holds the glass of a window4 ,also applied to the frame with the glass in place4 ,scraping4--,a piece of glass or the blade removed from a plane is used for scraping a piece of work to give it a smoother surface than can be obtained by using a plane upon it4 ,section4--,a part4 ,section ,drawing4--,a drawing made of an object1 showing it as it would look if you were to cut it open or split it in two4 ,the portions which would have to be cut through1 in such an operation1 are shaded in a drawing of this kind4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #bah1 ,chapter ,,xv2 ,fig4 #cjj1 ,chapter ,,xxi2 and ,fig4 #caf1 ,chapter ,,xxii4 ,a ,cross ,section is a section taken through the short way of an object4 ,a ,longitudinal ,section is a section taken through the long way of an object4 ,selvage4--,the selvage of cloth or wire-mesh is the edge which has been so woven as to prevent ravelling4 ,semicircle4--,half a circle4 ,set of a ,saw's ,teeth4 ,see page #ba1 ,chapter ,,ii4 ,setting ,nails4 ,see page #cd1 ,chapter ,,ii4 ,shape it ,down4--,a term used to imply that the board or piece of work shall be gradually cut down until it approaches its finished form and size4 ,shooting ,stick4--,an iron or wooden tool with a head on one end1 used to lock-up the ,quoins in a form of type4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #aee1 ,chapter ,,ix4 ,sills4--,the lowest horizontal timbers in a building of any kind on which the structure rests4 ,see also ,window ,frame4 ,sleepers4--,the timbers supporting the lower floor of a building1 distinguished from joists by being filled in between with cinders or concrete4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #ahf1 ,chapter ,,xiii4 ,slip-knot4--,a noose which slips along the line or rope around which it is tied4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #bdc1 ,chapter ,,xvii4 ,slot4--,a mortise1 or hole1 with sides square or nearly so4 ,made by boring several holes1 and then connecting and squaring them up with a chisel4 ,space4--,a thin piece of type-metal1 lower than the type1 used between words1 and for spacing out lines4 ,a #c-;em space is a third of an em in width1 a #d-;em a quarter of an em in width1 a #e-;em a fifth of an em1 and an #h-;em 7known as a hair space7 is an eighth of an em4 ,spike4--,a twentypenny nail 7four inches long7 and all lengths greater4 ,see list of sizes on page #cf1 ,chapter ,,ii4 ,to ,spike a board in place is to fasten it with spikes4 ,spliced4--,two pieces are spliced when joined together1 generally end to end1 in such a way that they are held together and act as one piece4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #ahc1 ,chapter ,,xiii1 and ,fishing4 ,spring-catch4--,a small lock1 such as shown in ,figs4 #if1 #aad1 and #ahg4 ,the latch is operated by a small knob1 and is thrown into position by a small spring4 ,the metal socket which is screwed in place for the latch to spring into is known as the ,latch-pocket4 ,sprint4--,a short race run at full speed4 ,squaring ,lines4--,by squaring lines across a board is meant the operation of drawing lines across a board with a try-square1 the head of the try-square being placed against the tried-edge of the board so those lines will be at right angles to that tried-edge4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #ch1 ,chapter ,,ii4 ,staple4--,a ,u-shaped piece of metal1 with two sharp points which are driven into wood in the same way as a nail4 ,stock4--,material2 supplies4 ,the brace which holds the bit for boring2 the block which holds the blade of a plane 7see ,fig4 #bd1 ,chapter ,,ii72 the portion of a gun which contains the barrel and trigger4 ,stops4 ,see ,door-stops and ,window-stops4 ,strap-hinge4--,a hinge with long arms1 or flaps1 which extend over a larger area than those of an ordinary hinge1 and give it the power of withstanding greater strains4 ,studs4--,the smaller pieces of timber used in the framework of a building1 to which the siding is attached1 or to which the laths are nailed4 ,known also as ,studding4 ,stuff4--,in carpenter work this term is applied to the different sizes of lumber4 ,e4 ,g4 ,seven-eighths-inch stuff means boards seven-eighths of an inch thick2 two-inch-stuff is lumber two inches thick4 ,stunt4--,originally a slang word used to denote a trick or feat of some sort4 ,it is now generally recognized as a legitimate word4 ,swivel4--,a fastening with a pivot which allows the object attached to it to revolve without twisting the cord1 wire1 or chain1 by which that object is suspended4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #beh1 ,chapter ,,xviii2 and page #bdi4 ,taper4--,to make gradually smaller in diameter toward one end2 to gradually diminish toward a point4 ,temper4--,steel and iron tools are given their necessary degree of hardness by a process of heating and cooling1 known as ,tempering4 ,too much friction obtained while grinding a tool will destroy this temper1 making it necessary to re-temper it4 ,toe-nailing4 ,see page #cc4 ,tongue4--,the projecting edge of a tongued-and-grooved board4 ,a projecting pin cut on a piece of wood to fit a mortise of the same shape cut in another piece of wood4 ,used in making ,dovetail-joints4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,figs4 #bjh and #bji1 ,chapter ,,xv4 ,tongued-and-grooved ,boards4--,boards with a groove along one edge and a tongue along the opposite edge1 so that the tongue of one board will fit in the groove of another1 thus forming a fairly tight joint4 ,these boards are known also as ,matched ,boards4 ,trench4--,a ditch2 a long channel4 ,tried-edge of ,work4 ,see ,testing ,work1 page #bh4 ,trim4--,the wooden ,casings placed around door and window openings 7see ,figs4 #he1 #hh1 and #hi1 ,chapter ,v74 ,to dress a piece of work2 to cut2 to make smooth4 ,turnstile4--,a post upon the top of which four horizontal arms are pivoted to revolve1 so as to allow but one person to pass at a time 7see ,fig4 #bff1 ,chapter ,,xix1 and description of construction on page #bei74 ,two-by-four4--,a piece two inches thick by four inches wide used for supports and the construction of frameworks4 ,pieces of other dimensions are also known and spoken of by their sizes in inches4 ,e4 ,g4 ,two-by-sixes1 two-by-eights1 and two-by-tens4 ,typographical4--,relating or pertaining to typography4 ,typography4--,the art of setting type4 ,undercutting4--,as the term implies1 the wood is undercut1 or cut under1 thus making it wedge-or ,v-shaped4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,fig4 #bji1 ,chapter ,,xv2 also text on page #baa4 ,upright4--,an upright is a piece of timber which is perpendicular when in place4 ,valance4--,a drapery for a couch or bed4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,couch in illustration of a ,boy's ,room1 ,chapter ,v4 ,vertical4--,perpendicular to the horizon2 upright2 plumb2 straight up and down4 ,wainscot4--,a lining placed upon the inside walls of a building4 ,it was originally made of oak timbers1 known as wainscot1 but the term is now applied to any kind of wood1 burlap1 tapestry1 or other material applied in the same manner4 ,as a rule1 it extends but part way up a wall1 starting at the floor line4 ,warped4--,twisted out of shape4 ,washer4--,a ring placed beneath the head of a bolt to give it a broader bearing surface1 and thus prevent it from cutting into the surface of the piece of work4 ,it is also placed under a nut to prevent it from working loose4 ,wedge-shaped4--,v-shaped4 ,window ,frame4--,the wooden frame built in the window opening for the sash to fit into4 ,the ,jambs are the sides of this frame1 the ,sill the bottom piece upon which the ,jambs rest1 and the ,head the top piece of the frame4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,figs4 #ahg and #ahh1 ,chapter ,,xiii1 and ,fig4 #aic1 ,chapter ,,xiv4 ,window-stops4--,wooden strips nailed around the ,jambs1 ,head1 and ,sill of a window frame to prevent rain and wind from entering between the sash and its frame4 ,wing4--,a piece of scenery placed at the side of the stage4 ,e4 ,g4 ,see ,figs4 #ccc1 #ccd1 #cce1 #cda1 and #cdb1 ,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,,index ,a ,advertisements for amateur paper1 #aeb2 dummy for1 #aeb4 ,advertisers' dummy1 #aeb4 ,advertising signs for circus1 #bga4 ,amateur journalism1 #adb4 ,amateur papers1 methods of printing1 #ade2 specimens of1 #adc1 #adf1 #adg1 #adh1 #adi1 and group opposite #adb2 character of1 #adh2 naming of1 #adi2 frequency of publication of1 #adi2 size of page of1 #aej2 heading for1 #aej2 choice of type for1 #aej2 cover for1 #aea2 binding1 #aea2 advertisements for1 #aeb2 second-class rates for1 #aeb4 ,andirons for doll-house fire-place1 #hh4 ,animals1 animated1 #bfa2 cork1 see ,cork animals4 ,animated animals1 #bfa4 ,archery1 scoring of points in1 #bce2 position for shooting in1 #bci4 ,arrow-heads1 #bcg2 ,indian1 #bda4 ,arrow-shafts1 #bcg2 feathering of1 #bch2 ,indian1 #bdj4 ,arrows1 shingle1 #bcb4 ,ash-sifter1 an1 #ec4 ,athletic club1 organizing an1 #bed4 ,athletic meets1 #bed4 ,attendants1 circus1 #bfi4 ,automatic-drill1 use of an1 #ca4 ,automobiles1 clockwork1 #cdc2 touring-car1 #cdc2 delivery-wagon1 #ceb4 ,b ,back-saw1 use of the1 #bd4 ,back-yard circus1 a1 see ,circus4 ,back-yard club-house1 a1 see ,club-house4 ,back-yard toboggan-slide1 see ,toboggan-slide4 ,bailey plane1 the1 #bf4 ,ballista1 the ancient1 #bca4 ,balustrades1 doll-house1 #gh1 #ajj4 ,barrel-hoop target1 #bcd4 ,bath-room as a dark-room1 a1 #aee4 ,batten door1 a1 for club-house1 #ahd4 ,battles1 mimic1 with paper soldiers1 #bgf4 ,battleships1 cardboard1 #cbh4 ,beams1 deck1 for canvas canoe1 #baj4 ,bean-blower1 a magazine1 #bhb4 ,bedroom as a dark-room1 a1 #aed4 ,beds1 doll-house1 #aah2 pine-bough1 #aih4 ,bench-hook1 how to make a1 #i2 use of a1 #bd1 #bi4 ,bench-screw1 iron and wooden1 #e4 ,bench-stops1 #g4 ,bench-vise1 how to make the1 #e4 ,bevel1 how to use the1 #de4 ,bevelling1 #cj4 ,bilge-keels for canvas canoe1 #bae4 ,binding of amateur papers1 #aea4 ,bird's mouth cut1 #h4 ,bits1 a rack for1 #af2 use of1 #ca4 ,bit-stock1 use of1 #ca2 selection of1 #ca4 ,blacking-case1 a1 #fh4 ,blind-nailing1 #cd4 ,blockhouse scene1 a1 #cai4 ,book-shelves1 #fg4 ,boring1 #cj4 ,bow and arrow1 the1 #bcf4 ,bow1 length of1 #bcf2 the ,indian's1 #bdj4 ,bow piece for canvas canoe1 #bjd4 ,bow-string1 the1 #bcg4 ,box trap1 the1 #bba4 ,boy about the house1 the1 #dg4 ,boy's dark-room1 a1 #aec4 ,boy's printing-shop1 a1 #abf4 ,boy's room1 suggestions for a1 #eg2 suitable furnishings for a1 #eg4 ,boy's workshop1 a1 #c4 ,braces1 deck1 for canvas canoe1 #baa4 ,bread-board1 how to make a1 #ed4 ,broom and dust-pan rack1 a handy1 #ej4 ,bullets1 cardboard1 #bcc4 ,bunks for log-cabin1 #aih4 ,butt-joint1 a1 #ei4 ,button-locks for club-house1 #ahd4 ,c ,cabinet1 a tool-1 #ad2 a special tool-1 #af2 a curio-1 #fe4 ,cabin1 log-1 see ,log-cabin4 ,cages for side show1 #bfj4 ,calking cracks1 #ahd4 ,camera1 profitable work with a1 #aec4 ,camping1 pointers for1 #aii2 utensils for1 #aii2 other necessary articles for1 #aii2 provisions for1 #bjj4 ,camp-table1 a1 #aii4 ,cannon1 danger of store1 #bgc2 a fire-cracker1 #bgc2 another toy1 #bgf4 ,canoe1 how to build a canvas1 #bja2 materials for1 #bjb2 putting together framework of1 #bjg2 canvas covering for framework of1 #bab2 painting of1 #bad4 ,canvas canoe1 see ,canoe4 ,canvas covering for canoe1 #bab4 ,car for toy railway1 a simple1 #ccd2 a gondola1 #ccf2 a street1 #ccf2 other cars1 #cdj4 ,carpenter's carrying-box1 a1 #ag4 ,carpenter's horses1 #i4 ,carpenter work1 advantages of understanding1 #c4 ,carpets for doll-house1 #ajf4 ,carrying-box1 a carpenter's1 #ag4 ,case1 a blacking-1 #fh2 upper and lower type-1 #abi2 scheme for laying type-1 #abi2 the ,yankee job-1 #acj2 a negative-1 #afg4 ,casters for doll-house1 #hd4 ,catapult1 the ancient1 #bbi4 ,catch1 spring-1 for doll-house1 #ih2 for stable1 #ajb2 for club-house1 #ahc4 ,chain and rattle1 a wooden1 #cei4 ,chairs1 miniature mission1 #aac4 ,chamfering1 #cj4 ,chariot1 a circus1 #bgj4 ,chase1 the type1 #acf4 ,chemistry ,news1 the1 #adc1 #adf4 ,chimney1 doll-house1 #he1 #id2 log-cabin1 #aib4 ,chisels1 racks for1 #af2 forms of1 #bh2 how to use the firmer-1 #bh2 framing-1 #bi2 paring with1 #bi2 grinding of1 #ch4 ,cigar-boxes1 preparation of1 #aaj4 ,cigar-box furniture1 see ,furniture4 ,circus1 a back-yard1 #bee2 the ancient ,roman1 #bee2 the modern1 #bee2 how several boys gave a1 #bef2 preparing a back-yard for a1 #bef2 ideas for performance of1 #bef2 parades1 #bga4 ,classifying negatives1 #afe2 manila envelopes for1 #afe4 ,clinching nails1 #cd4 ,clock1 a miniature grandfather's1 #aag4 ,clockwork automobiles1 #cdc4 ,clockwork railway1 #cee4 ,clockwork tick-tack1 a1 #bhf4 ,clothes1 workshop1 #ah2 hooks for workshop1 #ai4 ,clothes-line reel1 a handy1 #dh4 ,clown1 suit for1 #bfh2 stunts for1 #bfi2 slapper for the1 #bfi4 ,club1 organizing an athletic1 #bed4 ,club-house1 a back-yard1 #age2 drawing plan of1 #agh2 staking out1 #agi2 material for1 #agh4 ,coaming for cockpit1 #bad4 ,cockpit1 #bab2 coaming for1 #bad4 ,colored lights for miniature theatre1 #cji4 ,compass-saw1 use of the1 #ba4 ,composing-rule1 a1 #acd2 how to use a1 #ace4 ,composing-stick1 how to use the1 #acd4 ,composing type1 #acd4 ,coop trap1 the1 #bbd4 ,cork animals1 #cfc2 a pig1 #cfd2 a horse1 #cfd2 the elephant1 #cfe2 the giraffe1 #cfe2 a porcupine1 #cff2 other animals1 #cff4 ,cork toys1 #cfc2 animals1 #cfc2 the korka-bird1 #cff2 a duck1 #cfg2 boats1 #cfg2 furniture1 #cfg2 a toy log-cabin1 #cfi4 ,corner1 how to fit up a cosey-1 #eh4 ,cosey-corner1 how to fit up a1 #eh2 a doll-house1 #ajg4 ,couch1 a1 #fc2 covering of1 #fd4 ,countersink1 use of the1 #cg4 ,cracks1 calking1 #ahd4 ,cross-bar for jump standards1 #bej4 ,cross-bow1 the ancient1 #bca2 new idea for a1 #bca4 ,cross-cut saw1 use of the1 #ba4 ,cupboard1 provision1 #aig4 ,curio-cabinet1 a1 #fe2 finishing of1 #fg2 catalogue for1 #fg4 ,curtain1 drop-1 #cjf4 ,curtains for doll-house1 #ajf4 ,curves1 drawing1 #bjd4 ,d ,dark-lantern1 a home-made1 #afc4 ,dark-room1 a boy's1 #aec2 a bedroom as a1 #aed2 a bath-room as a1 #aee2 another scheme for a1 #aef4 ,dead fall trap1 the1 #bbb4 ,deck beams for canvas canoe1 #baj4 ,deck braces for canvas canoe1 #baa4 ,definitions of terms and phrases1 #cga4 ,delivery-wagon1 a clockwork automobile1 #ceb2 frame for1 #ceb2 cardboard sides for1 #cec2 the wheels1 #ced2 other portions of1 #ced2 painting1 #cee4 ,desk1 how to make a writing-1 #ei2 another style of1 #fb2 finishing of1 #fa4 ,disappearing rope1 the1 #bij4 ,distribution of type1 #acg4 ,divide a board1 to1 #de4 ,doll furniture1 #aji4 ,doll-house1 how to make a1 #ga2 the store1 #ga2 painting the1 #ij2 another style of1 #ia2 furnishing the1 #aje4 ,door1 batten1 for club-house1 #ahd2 log-cabin1 #aid4 ,doors1 doll-house1 #hj1 #hd2 trim for1 #hd2 stable1 #ajd4 ,dowelling1 #fj4 ,drawing1 parallel lines1 #dc2 enlarging by squares1 #aaj2 curves1 #bjd4 ,draw-knife1 use of a1 #cj2 how to grind the1 #ci4 ,dresser1 a doll's1 #abj2 a cigar-box1 #abd4 ,drill1 an automatic-1 #ca4 ,driving nails1 #cb4 ,drop-curtain1 #cjf4 ,drops for miniature theatre1 #caf1 #cbj4 ,drying-rack1 a1 #afa2 another scheme for a1 #afa4 ,duck1 a cork1 #cfg4 ,dummy1 the advertisers'1 #aeb4 ,dust-pan and broom rack1 a handy1 #ej4 ,e ,elastic sling1 an1 #bcd4 ,elephant1 a circus1 #bfa2 tricks for the1 #bfi2 a cork1 #cfe4 ,elevator1 a doll-house1 #id2 shaft for1 #ib2 car of1 #if2 guide-wires for1 #if2 pulleys1 chain1 and weight for1 #ig4 ,enlarging by squares1 #aaj4 ,enterprise1 a winter1 #afi4 ,equipment of workshop1 #d2 of printing-shop1 #abh2 of dark-room1 #aed4 ,f ,feathering arrow-shafts1 #bch4 ,feed-hoist for stable1 #ajd4 ,feed-troughs for stable1 #ajc4 ,field scene1 a1 #caf4 ,figure-four trap1 the1 #bai4 ,filter for dark-room tank1 #aeh4 ,fire-cracker cannon1 a1 #bgc4 ,fire-cracker mortar1 a1 #bge4 ,fire-crackers1 firing1 from kites1 #bgh4 ,fire-place1 doll-house1 #hf2 log-cabin1 #aij1 #aib4 ,fireworks1 danger and cost of making1 #bgb2 harmless and inexpensive1 #bgc4 ,firing ,roman-candles from kites1 #bgg2 fire-crackers from kites1 #bgh2 nigger-chasers with cross-bow1 #bgh4 ,firmer-chisels1 use of1 #bh4 ,fishing studs1 #agh4 ,fish-plates1 #agh4 ,floodlights1 #cjh4 ,floor1 back-yard club-house1 #aha2 mud1 for log-cabin1 #aic4 ,floors1 doll-house1 #gd1 #gf1 #ia2 finishing of hardwood1 #ajf4 ,fly-killer1 a simple1 #ea2 use of the1 #eb4 ,folding-bed1 a cigar-box1 #abc4 ,footlights1 #cjg4 ,fore-plane1 use of the1 #be4 ,form1 locking up a1 #acf2 overlaying the1 #ach2 underlaying the1 #ach4 ,fountain pen1 a home-made1 #cef4 ,fourth of ,july1 suggestions for1 #bgb2 the first1 #bgb4 ,frames for scenery drops1 #cad4 ,frames1 picture-1 for a boy's room1 #ei4 ,framing-chisels1 use of1 #bi4 ,franklin1 ,benjamin1 #adb4 ,furniture1 cork1 #cfg2 a chair1 #cfh2 the sofa1 #cfh2 a tabouret1 #cfh4 ,furniture1 mission1 #aji2 chairs1 #aac2 settee1 #aad2 tables1 #aad2 another design for tables1 #aae2 side-board1 #aae2 a mirror1 #aag2 grandfather's clock1 #aag2 kitchen furniture1 #aah2 beds1 #aah2 dresser1 #abj2 wash-stand1 #aba2 finishing of1 #aba4 ,furniture1 suitable for a boy's room1 #eg2 selection of doll-house1 #ajg2 doll-1 #aji2 metal1 #aji2 other cigar-box1 #abb2 printer's metal and wooden1 #acf4 ,g ,gable-ends1 the doll-house1 #gi1 #ig2 the stable1 #ajb4 ,gable roof for doll-house1 #ib2 for stable1 #aja4 ,galley1 a home-made1 #ace4 ,gambrel roof for 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for broad jumping1 #bed4 ,marking-gauge1 a1 #dc2 how to operate a1 #dd4 ,materials1 receptacles for printing1 #adj2 cabinet for dark-room1 #afa4 ,mechanical effects for miniature theatre1 #cbi4 ,mid-ocean scene1 a1 #cae4 ,mimic battles with paper soldiers1 #bgf4 ,miniature theatre1 a1 see ,theatre4 ,mirror1 ,the1 #adf1 #adg4 ,mirror for doll-house1 #aag4 ,mission furniture1 doll1 see ,furniture4 ,mitre-box1 how to make a1 #aj4 ,monkey1 make-up for1 #bfg2 tricks for1 #bgj2 chariot for1 #bgj4 ,mortar1 a fire-cracker1 #bge4 ,mould for canvas canoe1 #bjg4 ,mysterious letter1 a1 #agf4 ,n ,nail-box1 how to make a1 #ah4 ,nailing1 toe-1 #cc2 blind-1 #cd4 ,nails1 driving1 #cb2 withdrawing1 #cc2 clinching1 #cd2 forms of1 #ce2 sizes of1 #cf4 ,nail-set1 the1 #cd4 ,negative-case1 #afg2 finishing of1 #afh4 ,nigger-chasers1 firing1 with cross-bow1 #bgh4 ,o ,ocean scene1 an1 #cac4 ,office1 ticket1 #beg4 ,oil-stone1 selection of1 #dj2 the ,washita1 #dj4 ,oily rags and waste1 care of1 #ai1 #ada4 ,outdoor gymnasium1 an1 #bdc4 ,overlaying a form1 #ach4 ,p ,packing-cases for doll-house1 #gb1 #ia4 ,paddle1 a single1 #bag4 ,papering the doll-house1 #aje4 ,papers1 amateur1 see ,amateur papers4 ,parades1 circus1 #bga4 ,parallel bars1 #bde4 ,parallel lines1 to draw1 #dc4 ,paring1 #bi4 ,partitions1 doll-house1 #gd1 #ia2 stable stall1 #ajb4 ,pen1 a home-made fountain1 #cef4 ,penants1 college1 for cosey-corner1 #eh4 ,pen-tray1 an ink-stand and1 #fc4 ,picture-frame1 a proscenium1 #cjc4 ,picture-frames for a boy's room1 #ei4 ,pictures1 suitable1 for a doll-house1 #ajg4 ,pieing1 #ace4 ,pig1 a cork1 #cfd4 ,pin-wheel1 the magic1 #ceg4 ,pistol1 a toy1 #bcc2 cardboard bullets for1 #bcc4 ,plan1 drawing1 for club-house1 #agh4 ,plane1 use of the jack-1 the fore-1 and the smoothing-1 #be2 the ,stanley1 #be2 the ,bailey1 #bf2 printer's1 #acg4 ,plane-iron1 how to grind a1 #ci2 how to whet a1 #da4 ,planes1 choice of1 #be4 ,planing1 position for1 #bf2 wood with crooked grain1 #bg2 end-wood1 #bg4 ,plate-lifter1 a1 #afe4 ,plate-rack1 a1 #ed2 staining of1 #ef4 ,platform for punching-bag1 #bdh4 ,platform for toboggan-slide1 #bic4 ,plough1 a snow1 #afi4 ,plumb1 how to make a1 #ab2 how to use a1 #ac4 ,points1 scoring of1 in archery1 #bce4 ,pole1 a vaulting1 #bea4 ,pond1 for miniature theatre1 #cbj4 ,porcupine1 a cork1 #cff4 ,portieres for doll-house1 #ajf4 ,posters for a boy's room1 #eh4 ,preserving negatives1 #afe2 manila envelopes for1 #afe4 ,press ,association1 the ,national ,amateur1 #adc2 the ,united ,amateur1 #adc2 the ,interstate ,amateur1 #add2 the ,western ,amateur1 #add2 local amateur1 #add2 advantages of membership in a1 #add4 ,presswork1 pointers for1 #ach4 ,printing1 #abf2 neatness in1 #adj4 ,printing-press1 starting with a small1 #abf2 inking the1 #adj4 ,printing-shop1 a boy's1 #abf2 location of1 #abf2 the author's1 #abh2 equipment of1 #abh4 ,proofs1 striking1 #acf2 correcting1 #acf2 disposing of waste1 #ada4 ,proper handling of tools1 the1 #bj4 ,properties for 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