,beautiful ,europe  ,belgium   by       
,joseph ,e4 ,morris     ,i4   ,x ne$s1  
inde$1 an ef=t ( ! imag9ation at ! mom5t
 ( writ+ to ?9k ( ,belgium z 9 any s5se 
a compon5t "p ( ,beautiful ,europe4 ,!  
unhappy cockpit ( ! ,cont95t at ! actual
 h\r is aga9 9 process ( accompli%+ its 
frightful de/9y--no treaty1 or scrap (  
pap]1 is pot5t to pres]ve ?is la/1 &    
weake/1 ( all ! nations ( ,we/]n ,europe
 f dr9k+ to ! dregs ! cup ( ru9 &       
desolation4 ,tragic inde$ 9 ! pr(\nde/  
s5se--9 ! s5se ( ,ari/otle--m tragic ?an
 ! long ru9 ( ! pr$e/9$ h\se (          
,o$ipus--is ?is accumulat$ trag$y ( a   
small & helpless p1 ^: sole app>5t crime
 is _! /]n det]m9ation to cl+ at any co/
 to _! plight$ ^w ( hon\r4 ,i h be5     
lately glanc+ into a little book publi%$
 ab\t five ye>s ago1 9 :i* a view is    
tak5 ( ! ,belgian "* t no "o c\ld t]m   
indulg5t4 ,x is curi\s1 says ! writ] 9  
"o place1 h[ few ,belgians1 old or "y1  
ri* or poor1 consid] ! feel+s or        
conv5i5ce ( o!rs4 ,!y are int5sely      

selfi%1 & ?is is d\btless caus$ by ! way
 9 :i* !y are br\ght up4 ,&1 aga91 9    
ano!r *apt]1 he ins9uates a d\bt z to   
:e!r ! ,belgians1 if ev] call$ on1 w\ld 
ev5 prove good soldi]s4 ,b :e!r ! p ( a 
neutral ,/ate are ev] likely to be brave
 & self-sacrific+ is ano!r ?+4 ,su* a   
writ] c]ta9ly does n %r9k--z ,burke1 we 
"k1 once %rank--f fram+ an indictm5t    
aga9/ an entire p4 ,:e!r ,belgium1 z a  
nation1 is self-sacrific+ & brave may   
safely be left to ! judgm5t ( po/]ity4  
,!re is a passage 9 "o ( ,mr4 ,lecky's  
books--,i _c put my f+] on ! exact      
ref]5ce--9 :i* he pron\nces t ! s9s (   
,france1 :i* are _m1 are =giv5 h]1      
because1 l ! woman 9 ! ,gospels1 %e has 
lov$ mu*4 ,x is n our bus9ess n[1 if    
inde$ at any "t1 to appraise ! s9s (    
,belgium2 b surely h] love1 9 angui%1 is
 manife/ & supreme4 ,:5 we contemplate  
^! fir/fruits ( ,g]man kultur--?is      
deluge ( innoc5t blood1 & ?is wreckage (
 anci5t monum5ts--:o c hesitate = a     
mom5t to belaud ?is little p1 :i* has   

flung itself ?us gallantly1 9 ! _s (    
pure/ sacrifice1 9 front ( ! onw>d      
progress ( ?is new & frightful          
,jugg]naut8 ,r "o recalls t old p]si/5t 
cre$1 exemplifi$ p]haps 9 ! my/]ies1 n[ 
( ! ,greek ,adonis1 n[ ( ,p]sian        
,mi?ras1 & n[ ( ! ,roman prie/ ( !      
,n5nian lake1 t x is only ?r\gh ! gates 
( sacrifice & dea? t ! _w moves on      
triumphant to rejuv5ation & life4 ,is x1
 9 tru?1 ?r\gh ! blood ( a bruis$ &     
pro/rate ,belgium t ! purple hyac9? ( a 
rescu$ ,european civilization w spr+    
pres5tly f ! soak$ & untill$ soil8  ,yet
 ev5 if ,g]man kultur 9 ! end sweep     
:olly into ru9 ! long accumulat$        
treasures ( ,belgian ar*itecture1       
sculpture1 & pa9t+--if ,bruges1 :i*     
to-day /&s /ill intact1 %all to-morr[ be
 reckon$ ) ,d9ant & ,l\va9--yet x w\ld  
/ill be wor? :ile to set be=e a few m p 
?is record ( vani%$ spl5d\r1 t !y may   
bett] appreciate :at ! _w has lo/ ?r\gh 
lu/ ( brutal ambition1 & bett] be on    
gu>d 9 ! future to protect :at wreckage 

is left4 ,all ^! treasures 7 bequea!d to
 u--n to ,belgium alone1 b to ! :ole    
_w--by ! dilig5ce & zeal ( antiquity2 & 
we h se5 ?is goodly h]itage gr\nd 9 a   
mom5t into du/ b5ea? ! heel ( an insol5t
 & degrad$ militancy4 ,belgium1 9 v     
tru?1 9 gu>d+ ! civilization &          
inh]itance ( o!r nations1 has lavi%ly   
wreck$ h] own4 ,!y made me keep] ( !    
v9ey>ds2 b my own v9ey>d h ,i n kept4   
,luckily1 h[ev]1 x is n yet q cle> t !  
"w ( wa/e & ru9 is :olly irrep>able4 ,"o
 sees 9 ! illu/rat$ ,engli% pap]s       
pictures ( ! great ?irte5?-c5tury *ur*es
 at ,dixmude1 ,d9ant1 & ,l\va91 made    
evid5tly f photographs1 t sugge/ at lea/
 t x is n impossible /ill to rebuild !  
walls ( ,j]usalem4 ,dixmude1 inde$--,i  
judge f an int]ior view--is possibly    
%att]$ pa/ hope2 b ,d9ant & ,/4 ,pi]re1 
at ,l\va91 s f> at lea/ z _! fabrics are
 conc]n$1 seem to lack little b !       
woodwork ( _! ro(s4 ,x is only a few    
ye>s ago s9ce ! writ] /ood 9 ! burnt-out
 %ell ( ,selby ,abbey2 yet ! ,selby     

,abbey ( to-day1 ?\gh "s anci5t fitt+s (
 ine/imable value h irrep>ably p]i%$1 is
 9 "s ways n less magnific5t1 & is      
c]ta9ly m complete1 ?an its imp]fect    
pr$ecessor4 ,"o takes com=t1 aga91 9 !  
?\ght ( ,york ,m9/] 9 ! conflagration   
caus$ by ! s+le madman ,m>t9 9 #ahbi1 & 
( ! collapse ( ! blaz+ ceil+s 9 nave &  
*ancel1 :il/ ! great gall]y ( pa9t$     
glass1 by "s odd miracle1 escap$4 ,is x 
too mu* to hope t ?is devil's "w ( a    
million madm5 at ,dixmude or ,nieuport  
may prove equally incomplete8  ,9 !     
imp]fect sket* t foll[s ,i write ( !    
aspect ( ,belgium--( its cities1 t 7    
=m]ly ! mo/ picturesque 9 ,europe2 ( its
 l&scapes1 t range f ! level f5s (      
,fl&]s to ! wood$ lime/one wolds ( !    
,ard5nes--z ,i knew ^!1 & lov$ !m1 9 =m]
 ye>s1 be=e hell 0 let loose 9 ,europe4 
,& p]haps1 ! picture "h pres5t$ w 9 "t  
be n altoge!r misrepres5tative ( !      
reg5]at$ ,belgium t w c]ta9ly "s day    
arise4     ,,ii4   ,x is n m]ely 9 its  
quality ( unr$eem$ & absolute flatness t

 ! great f5 c\ntry ( ,fl&]s is s /rongly
 rem9isc5t ( ! great f5 c\ntry ( !      
,holl& p>ts ( ,l9coln%ire4 ,ea* ( ^! va/
 levels is equally di/+ui%$ by ! spl5d\r
 & conspicu\sness ( its anci5t *ur*es4  
,travell+ by railway betwe5 ,nieuport & 
,dixmude1 y h on e side ( y1 if ! day be
 cle>1 a prospect ( innum]able t[]s &   
spires1 j z y h if y travel by railway  
betwe5 ,spald+ & ,slea=d1 or betwe5     
,spald+ & ,k+'s ,lynn4 ,! diff]5ce1     
p]haps1 is t ! ,l9coln%ire *ur*es pres5t
 f9] ar*itectural feature1 & are built (
 /one1 float$ d[n 9 b>ges1 by dyke or   
f51 f ! fam\s inl& qu>ries ( ,b>nack1 9 
,nor?ampton%ire2 :il/ mo/ ( ^? 9 ,fl&]s 
are built ( local brick1 ?\gh ! drums ( 
! pi]s & ! ar*es are (t5 ( blue         
lime/one4 ,x is rem>kable1 c]ta9ly1 t ^!
 so>+ spires %\ld ?us *iefly rise to    
em95ce 9 a sett+ ( dead1 flat pla94 ,x  
may well be1 inde$1 z "s h sugge/$1 t ! 
"* ( ar*itecture is unconsci\sly det]m9$
 by ! type ( surr\nd+ sc5]y2 t m5 d n   
build spires 9 ! mid/ ( m\nta9s to      

compete ) natural sublimity t !y _c hope
 to emulate1 b are embold5$ to express 9
 /one & mort> _! own heav5w>d           
aspirations 9 c\ntries :]e ,nature seems
 to express h]self 9 less spiritual1 or 
at any rate 9 less ambiti\s1 mood4  ,z  
we cross ! level prairie betwe5 ^! two  
little t[ns ( ,we/ ,fl&]s 7we hope to   
visit !m pres5tly71 a gr\p ( l(ty ro(s &
 t[]s is se5 gr&ly t[>ds ! we/1 dom9at+ 
! f5l& ) h>dly less insi/5cy ?an ,bo/on 
,/ump1 9 ,l9coln%ire1 z se5 across ,wa% 
& f54 ,?is is ! little t[n ( ,furnes1   
?an :i* "o c h>dly imag9e a qua9t] place
 9 ,belgium1 or "o m entirely fitt$ z a 
doorway by :i* to ent] a new l&4 ,com+  
/raight f ,engl& by way ( ,calais &     
,dunkirk1 ! fir/ sight ( ?is anci5t     
,flemi% m>ket-place1 ) its unbrok5 l9es 
( old :ite-brick h\ses1 _m ( :i* h      
cr[-/epp$ gables2 ) ! two great *ur*es (
 ,/4 ,ni*olas1 ) its huge squ>e t[]1 & (
 ,/4 ,walburge1 ) its long ridge ( l(ty 
ro(2 & ) its ,hotel de ,ville & ,palais 
de ,ju/ice ( ab\t ! dawn ( ! sev5te5?   

c5tury1 is a revelation1 9 its atmosph]e
 ( sleepy ev5+ quiet1 to ^? :o rub _!   
eyes ) wond]1 & f9d x h>d to cr$it t    
,london1 ) its unutt]able1 ext]nal      
hide\sness1 0 actually left beh9d !m    
only t v morn+1 & is actually at pres5t 
n two hundr$ miles di/ant4 ,furnes1 9   
%ort1 is an epitome1 & ,i ?9k a v *>m+  
"o1 ( all t is mo/ *>act]i/ic 9 ,fl&]s2 
& n ! less *>m+ because "h ! /rong      
curr5ts ( mod]n life t ?rob ?r\gh ,gh5t 
& ,antw]p ext5d only to its ?re%old 9 ! 
fa9te/ ( dy+ ripples1 & because y d n   
ne$ to be told t 9 its t[n hall may /ill
 be se5 hang+s ( old ,spani% lea!r1 & t 
! memb]s ( ! ,inquisition us$ to meet 9 
! ante-*amb] ( ! fir/ floor ( its       
,palais de ,ju/ice1 9 ord] to ?r[       
y\rself back 9 memory to ^? old days (  
,l[l& greatness f ^: /ruggles ,holl&    
em]g$ victori\s1 b into :i* ,belgium1 = 
! "t1 sank back oppress$4  ,furnes--9   
,flemi% ,veurne--is an excell5t c5tre f 
:i* to explore ! extreme we/ po9t (     
,belgian ,fl&]s1 :i* is also ! extreme  

we/ po9t ( ,belgium z a :ole4 ,fl&]s1 be
 x always rememb]$1 does n t]m9ate )    
m]e1 pres5t-day1 political divisions1 b 
spreads ) unbrok5 "* to ! v gateways (  
,calais & ,lille4 ,hazebr\ck1 = example1
 is a ?or\ghly ,flemi% t[n1 ?\gh ne>ly  
t5 miles1 9 a beel9e1 inside ! ,fr5*    
bord]--,flemi% n m]ely1 l ,dunkirk1 9 ! 
ar*itecture ( its great brick *ur*1 b   
also actually ,flemi% 9 language1 & 9 ! 
names t "o reads above its %op doors4 ,9
 p>ticul>1 excursions may be pleasantly 
made f ,furnes--^: pr9cipal inn1 !      
,noble ,rose1 is aga9 a qua9t relic ( ! 
sixte5? c5tury--to ! two delightful     
little m>ket-t[ns ( ,dixmude &          
,nieuport-,ville3 ,i write1 z always1 ( 
:at 0 rec5tly1 & ( :at ,i h se5 myself2 
to-day !y are probably heaps ( smok+    
ru91 & sangu9>y alt>s to ,g]man kultur4 
,nieuport-,ville1 s call$ 9 di/9ction f 
its dull little wat]+-place und]/udy1   
,nieuport-les-,ba9s1 :i* lies a c\ple ( 
miles to ! we/ ( x1 among ! s&-dunes by 
! m\? ( ! ,ys]1 & is h>dly wor? a visit 

unless y want to ba!--,nieuport-,ville1 
9 addition to its old yell[-brick       
,halles1 or ,clo? ,hall1 & its e>ly ,t\r
 des ,templi]s1 is rem>kable = its      
possession ( a fasc9at+ *ur*1 ! rec5t   
re/oration ( :i* has be5 altoge!r       
cons]vative & admirable4 ,/&+ "h1 9 ?is 
ri* & picturesque int]ior1 y realize    
/rongly ! gulf 9 ?is direction betwe5   
,belgium & ,france1 9 :i* latt] c\ntry1 
9 ^! days ( ecclesia/ical pov]ty1 lov+  
re/oration ( ! k9d "h se5 is r>e1 & ^:  
(t5 neglect$ village *ur*es seldom1 or  
nev]1 exhibit t weal? ( m>ble rood-scre5
 & sculptur$ woodwork--( beat5 brass &  
hamm]$ iron--t di/+ui%es ,belgian *ur*  
int]iors f p]haps all o!rs on e>?4 ,!   
*ur* has also "s highly important       
brasses1 ano!r detail1 common ( c\rse 9 
mo/ c\nties ( ,engl&1 t is n[ nev]1 or  
h>dly ev]1 f\nd 9 ,france4 ,*ief1       
p]haps1 among ^! is ! curi\s1 circul>   
brass--,i hope x has escap$--) figures (
 husb&1 wife1 & *ildr51 on a            
magnific5tly work$ backgr\nd1 t is n[   

susp5d$ on ! nor?we/ pi] ( ! c5tral     
cross+4 ,v ,belgian1 too1 9 "* is !     
rood-beam1 ) its ?ree figures ( ,our ,"l
 9 ,crucifixion1 ( ! ,virg91 & ( ,/4    
,john2 & ! /rik+ ,r5aissance rood-scre5 
9 black & :ite m>ble1 ?\gh n z f9e z "s 
t are f\nd 9 o!r *ur*es4 ,rood-scre5s ( 
?is exact sort are almo/ limit$ to      
,belgium1 ?\gh !re is "o1 n[ misplac$ 9 
! we/ end ( ! nave1 & s]v+ z an         
organ-l(t1 9 ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,g]y at       
,cambrai--ano!r curi\s l9k betwe5 ,fr5* 
& ,belgian ,fl&]s4 ,dixmude 79 ,flemi%  
,diksmuide71 n9e & a half miles s\? f   
,nieuport1 is an altoge!r bigg] & m     
important place1 ) a l>g] & m important 
*ur*1 ( ,/4 ,ni*olas1 to mat*4 ,my      
recollection ( ?is la/1 on a ,saturday  
aft]noon ( heavy %[]s t[>ds ! close (   
,m>*1 is "o ( a va/ int]ior ?rong$ ) m5 
& wom5 9 ! usual dismal1 black ,flemi%  
cloaks1 kneel+ 9 confession1 or wait+   
pati5tly = _! turn to confess1 9        
prep>ation = ! ,ea/] ,mass4 ,"h ! be/   
feature1 till lately1 0 ! glori\s       

,flamboyant rood-scre51 recall+ ^? at   
,albi & ! *ur* ( ,br\1 9 ,france2 &     
rem>kable 9 ,belgium z "o ( ! v few     
examples ( its sort 7!re is1 or 01 ano!r
 9 ,/4 ,pi]re1 at ,l\va97 ( s e>ly a    
p]iod1 9 a l& :]e rood-scre5s1 z a body1
 are g5]ally mu* lat] 9 date4  ,x is    
difficult1 9 deal+ ) ,fl&]s1 to avoid a 
c]ta9 am\nt ( ar*itectural description1 
= ar*itecture1 aft] all1 is ! *ief      
attraction ( ! c\ntry1 save p]haps 9    
,gh5t & ,bruges1 :]e we h also noble    
pictures4 ,ev5 ^? :o d n c>e to /udy ?is
 ar*itecture 9 detail w be gratifi$ to  
/roll at leisure ?r\gh ! dim va/ness ( !
 great ,flemi% *ur*es1 :]e ! eye is     
satisfi$ ev]y:]e ) ! weal? ( brass &    
iron "w1 & :]e ! ,belgian passion =     
wood-c>v+ displays itself 9 lavi%       
prodigality4 ,su* weal?1 inde$1 (       
ecclesia/ical furniture y w h>dly f9d   
else:]e 9 ,we/]n ,europe--font cov]s (  
hamm]$ brass1 l ^? at ,hal & ,tirlemont2
 /alls & confessionals & pulpits1 new & 
old1 t are m]e masses ( sculptur$       

wood-"w2 tall tab]nacles = ! reception (
 ! ,sacr$ ,ho/1 l ^? at ,l\va9 & ,leau1 
t t[] t[>ds ! ro( by ! side ( ! ,high   
,alt>s4 ,mo/ ( ?is "w1 no d\bt1 is      
po/-,go?ic1 except ! spl5did /alls &    
canopies 7,i wond]1 d !y /ill survive7  
at ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,g]trude at ,l\va92 =   
,belgium pres5ts few examples ( m$iaeval
 wood-"w l ! gorge\s /alls at ,ami5s1 or
 l ^? 9 half a hundr$ *ur*es 9 our own  
l&4 ,mu*1 9 fact1 ( ^! spl5did fitt+s is
 m or less contempor>y ) ! noble        
ma/]pieces ( ,rub5s & ,v&yck1 & belongs 
to ! same great wave ( arti/ic en?usiasm
 t swept ov] ! ,ne!rl&s 9 ! sev5te5?    
c5tury4 ,belgian pulpits1 9 p>ticul>1   
are probably unique1 & c]ta9ly1 to my k1
 )\t p>allel 9 ,italy1 ,engl&1 or       
,france4 ,sometimes !y are m]ely adorn$1
 l ! confessionals at ,/4 ,*>les1 at    
,antw]p1 & at ,tirlemont1 ) isolat$     
figures2 b (t5 ^! are gr\p$ into "s     
vivid dramatic sc5e1 su* z ! ,miracul\s 
,draught ( ,fi%es1 at ,/4 ,&rew's1 at   
,antw]p1 or ! ,conv]sion ( ,/4 ,norb]t1 

9 ! ca!dral at ,mal9es4 ,c]ta9ly ! fall5
 horseman 9 ! latt]1 if n a little      
ludicr\s1 is a trifle out ( place4  ,f  
,furnes to ,ypres x is a pleasant j\rney
 across c\ntry by "o ( ^? /range        
/eam-trams along ! road1 s common 9     
,belgium & ,holl&1 & n unkn[n 9 ,france1
 t w9d at frequ5t int]vals ?r\gh village
 /reets s n>r[1 t y h only to put out   
y\r h& 9 pass+ to t\* ! walls ( h\ses4  
,?is is a v leisurely mode ( travell+1 &
 ! halts are q int]m9able 9 _! frequ5cy 
& l5g?2 b ! pass5g] is all[$ to /& on ! 
op5 plat=m at ! end ( ! c>riage--?\gh   
sometimes ne>ly smo!r$ ) ?ick1 black    
smoke--& c]ta9ly no bett] me?od exi/s ( 
explor+ ! %ort /ret*es ( op5 c\ntry t   
lie betwe5 t[n & t[n4 ,belgian t[ns1    
rememb]1 lie mo/ly ?ick on ! gr\nd--y   
are h>dly out ( ,brussels be=e y come to
 ,mal9es1 & h>dly out ( ,mal9es ere y   
sight ! spire ( ,antw]p4 ,9 no "p (     
,europe1 p]haps1 save 9 p>ts (          
,lanca%ire & ,york%ire1 d y f9d s _m big
 t[ns 9 s limit$ a space2 yet ! /rips ( 

c\ntry t lie betwe51 ?\gh (t5 intol]ably
 dull1 are 7unlike ! /rips 9 ,york%ire7 
int5sely rural 9 "*4 ,belgian t[ns d n  
sprawl 9 endless1 untidy suburbs1 z     
,%effield sprawls out t[>ds ,ro!rham1 & 
,brad=d t[>ds ,le$s4 ,belgian t[ns1     
moreov]--aga9 unlike our own big cities 
9 ,engl&--are mo/ly extremely h&some1 & 
g5]ally contrive1 h[ev] big1 to reta91  
at any rate 9 _! he>t1 z at ,antw]p1 or 
9 ! ,gr&e ,place at ,brussels1 a /rik+  
air ( antiquity2 :il/ "s fairly big     
t[ns1 su* z ,mal9es & ,bruges1 are      
m$iaeval f end to end4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 is
 n true ( ,belgian ,luxemb\rg & ! region
 ( ! ,ard5nes1 :]e ! population is mu* m
 sp>se2 :]e we d n /umble1 ab\t e fifte5
 miles or s1 on "s big t[n ( hi/oric "n2
 & :]e ! endless *essbo>d ( little      
fields t lies1 = example1 betwe5 ,gh5t &
 ,oud5>de1 or betwe5 ,mal9es & ,l\va91  
is replac$ by long cont\rs ( sweep+     
lime/one wold1 (t5 cov]$ ) roll+ wood4  
,ypres is di/+ui%$ above all cities 9   
,belgium by ! huge size & /ately        

magnific5ce ( its lordly ,clo? ,hall1 or
 ,halles des ,drapi]s4 ,s va/1 inde$1 is
 ?is huge build+1 & s flat ! surr\nd+   
pla91 t x is said t x is possible f !   
/rangely isolat$ hill ( ,cassel1 :i*    
lies ab\t eighte5 miles away to ! we/1 j
 ov] ! bord]1 9 ,france1 on a really    
cle> day--,i h only climb$ x myself1    
unluckily1 9 a fog ( w9t] mi/--to       
di/+ui% 9 a s+le view1 by m]ely turn+ ! 
head1 ! clu/]+ spires ( ,laon1 ! :ite   
*alk cliffs ( ,k5t1 & ?is va/ pile (    
build+1 l a %ip at sea1 t seems to lie  
at an*or 9 ! he>t ( ! s\nd+ pla94 ,no?+1
 p]haps1 9 ,europe is s /rangely        
significant ( vani%$ greatness--n ev5   
,rome1 ) its %att]$ ,=um1 or ,v5ice1 ) a
 hundr$ m>ble palaces--z ?is huge       
f\rte5?-c5tury build+1 ) a facade t is  
f\r hundr$ & ?irty-six feet long1 & )   
its l(ty c5tral t[]1 t 0 built = ! pride
 & ne$ ( ,ypres1 & z a m>ket = ! b>t] ( 
its priceless l95s1 at a "t :5 ,ypres   
numb]$ a population ( two hundr$ ?\s&   
s\ls 7almo/ z big z ,leice/] at ! pres5t

 day71 & 0 noisy ) f\r ?\s& busy looms2 
:]eas n[ x has b a begg>ly total ( less 
?an sev5te5 ?\s& s\ls 7ab\t z big z     
,guild=d71 & is only a degree less      
sleepy ?an ,mal9es or ,bruges-la-,morte4
 ,ypres1 aga91 l ,arras1 has l5t its "n 
to comm]ce1 if diap] be really rightly  
d]iv$ f ! expression l95 ( ,ypres4 ,!   
,clo? ,hall fronts on to ! ,gr&e ,place1
 &1 inde$1 =ms virtually "o side ( x2 & 
beh9d1 9 ! ,petite ,place1 is ! =m]     
ca!dral ( ,/4 ,m>t94 ,?is is ano!r f9e  
build+1 ?\gh utt]ly eclips$ by its huge 
secul> rival1 t 0 comm5c$ 9 ! ?irte5?   
c5tury1 & is typically ,belgian1 z      
oppos$ to ,fr5*1 9 ! "* ( its           
ar*itecture1 & n lea/ 9 its possession (
 a s+le great we/ t[]4 ,?is la/ feature 
is *>act]i/ic ( e big *ur* 9            
,belgium--"o c add !m up by ! doz53     
,bruges1 ,gh5t1 ,l\va9 7?\gh ru9$1 or   
nev] complet$71 ,oud5>de1 ,mal9es1      
,mons--save ,brussels1 :]e ! *ur* ( ,/e4
 ,gudule1 call$ p]si/5tly1 b wrongly1 ! 
ca!dral1 has ! full complem5t ( two1 &  

,antw]p1 :]e two 7 int5d$1 ?\gh only "o 
has be5 actually rais$4 ,?is t[] at     
,ypres1 h[ev]1 fails to                 
illu/rate--p]haps because x is e>li]1 & 
!re=e 9 bett] ta/e--t a/\nd+            
disproportion 9 height t is s frequ5tly 
exhibit$ by ,belgian t[]s1 z at ,mal9es1
 or 9 ! case ( ! fam\s belfry 9 !       
m>ket-place at ,bruges1 :5 consid]$ )   
ref]5ce to ! *ur*1 or t[n hall1 bel[4 ,9
 front ( ! ,high ,alt>1 9 ! pavem5t1 is 
an inconspicu\s squ>e ( :ite /one1 :i*  
m>ks ! burial-place ( ,cornelius ,jans51
 :o di$ ( ! plague1 z ,bi%op ( ,ypres1 9
 #afch4 ,! monum5t1 if y c call x       
monum5t1 is sc>cely less insignificant  
?an ! simple block1 9 ! cemet]y (       
,pla9palais at ,g5eva1 t is             
traditionally said to m>k ! re/+-place (
 ,calv94 ,yet ,jans51 9 8 way1 prov$    
almo/ a second ,calv9 9 8 dea?1 & m5ac$ 
! ,*ur* f 8 grave ) a second ,re=mation4
 ,he left beh9d 9 manuscript a book     
call$ ,augu/9us1 ! pr$e/9>ian t5or ( :i*
 0 condemn$ f9ally1 ?\gh ne>ly a c5tury 

lat]1 by ,pope ,clem5t ,,xi41 9 #agac1 9
 ! ,bull call$ ,unig5itus4 ,jans5ism1   
h[ev]1 _h /ruck deep its roots 9        
,france1 & /ill survives 9 ,holl& at !  
pres5t day1 at ,utre*t1 z a sect t is   
small1 inde$1 b n altoge!r obscure4     
,jans5 himself1 x may be not$1 0 a      
,holl&] by bir?1 hav+ be5 born 9 #aehe  
at ,akkoi 9 t k+dom4  ,if ,ypres is to  
be prais$ appropriately z a /ill        
delightful old city t has manag$ to     
reta9 to a q s+ul> degree ! outw>d      
aspect & *>m ( ! ,middle ,ages1 "o feels
 t "o has left "o's self )\t any prop]  
/ock ( epi!ts ) :i* to appraise at its  
prop] value ! *>m & romance ( ,bruges4  
,( late ye>s1 x is true1 ?is _w-fam$    
capital ( ,we/ ,fl&]s has lo/ some?+ (  
its old somnol5ce & peace4 ,mal9es1 9   
c]ta9 qu>t]s1 is n[ mu* m dead-alive1 & 
,wordswor?1 :o seems to h visualiz$     
,bruges 9 8 m9d z a network ( des]t$    
/reets1 :5ce busy life ha? fl$1 might   
p]haps be tempt$ n[ to apply to x ! same
 prophetic outlook t he imag9$ =        

,p5dragon ,ca/le3      ,view+     ,z 9 a
 dream h] own r5ew+4  ,"o hopes1 inde$1 
t ! r5ew+ ( ,bruges w n proce$ too      
zeal\sly1 ev5 if ,bruges come safely    
?r\gh its pres5t h\r ( crisis4 ,p]haps  
!re is no big city 9 ! _w--& ,bruges1   
?\gh x has %runk pitiably1 l ,ypres1 f  
its =m] great e/ate 9 ! ,middle ,ages1  
has /ill m ?an =ty ?\s& s\ls--t rema9s f
 end to end1 9 e alley1 & squ>e1 &      
/reet1 s :olly unspoilt & unt\*$ by :at 
is bad 9 ! mod]n _s1 or t pres5ts s     
little unlovel9ess & squalor 9 its m    
out-(-!-way corn]s z ,bruges4 ,bruges1 (
 c\rse1 l ,v5ice1 & half a doz5 t[ns 9  
,holl&1 is a /rangely amphibi\s city t  
is int]sect$ 9 e direction1 ?\gh c]ta9ly
 less p]si/5tly ?an ,v5ice1 by a network
 ( /agnant canals4 ,on ! o!r h&1 if x   
nev] rises to ! spl5d\r ( ! bett] p>ts (
 ,v5ice--! ,piazza & ! ,gr& ,canal--&   
lacks absolutely t *>m ( inf9itely v>i$1
 if some:at fad$ or ev5 %abby1 col\r t  
*>act]izes ! ,que5 ( ! ,adriatic1 !re is
 yet c]ta9ly no?+ monoton\s 9 h]        

monotone ( mell[ r$-brick2 & c]ta9ly    
no?+ s dilapidat$1 & tatt]$1 & altoge!r 
pov]ty-/rick5 z "o /umbles aga9/ 9      
,v5ice 9 p5etrat+ e n>r[ lane1 & 9 sail+
 up almo/ e canal4 ,( ,v5ice we may     
p]haps say1 :at ,byron said ( ,greece1 t
      ,h]s is ! lovel9ess 9 dea?     ,t 
p>ts n q ) p>t+ brea?2  :il/ 9 ,bruges  
we recognize gladly1 n dea? or decay at 
all1 b ! s]5e & graci\s comel9ess ( a   
dignifi$ & vital old age4  ,we _c1 (    
c\rse1 attempt1 9 a m]e sup]ficial sket*
 l ?is1 ev5 to summ>ize briefly ! weal? 
( objects ( int]e/ 9 ,bruges1 or to     
guide ! visitor 9 detail ?r\gh its maze 
( w9d+ /reets4 ,two great *ur*es1 no    
d\bt1 w be visit$ by ev]yone--! ca!dral 
( ,/4 ,sauveur & ! *ur* ( ,notre        
,dame--bo? ( :i*1 9 ! usual delightful  
,belgian fa%ion1 are also cr[d$         
picture-gall]ies ( ! works ( great      
,flemi% ma/]s4 ,! ,see ( ,bruges1 h[ev]1
 dates only f #aeei2 & ev5 aft] t date !
 ,bi%op _h 8 /ool 9 ! *ur* ( ,/4        
,donatian1 till ?is 0 de/roy$ by !      

fooli% ,revolution>ies 9 #agii4 ,9 a    
side-*apel ( ,notre ,dame1 & c>efully   
bo>d$ up = no reason 9 ! _w save to     
extort a v]g]'s fee = _! exhibition1 are
 ! spl5did black m>ble monum5ts1 )      
recumb5t figures 9 copp] gilt1 ( ,*>les 
! ,bold1 :o fell at ,nancy 9 #adgg 7b   
lives = ev]1 ) ,l\is ,,xi4 ( ,france1 9 
! pages ( ,qu5t9 ,durw>d71 & ( 8        
daught]1 ,m>y1 ! wife ( ! ,emp]or       
,maximilian1 ( ,au/ria1 :o 0 kill$ by   
be+ ?r[n f h] horse :il/ hunt+ 9 #adhb4 
,^! two tombs are ( capital int]e/ to ^?
 :o are /ud5ts ( ,belgian hi/ory1 =     
,*>les ! ,bold 0 ! la/ male ( ! ,h\se ( 
,burgundy1 & x 0 by ! m>riage ( 8       
daught] t ! ,ne!rl&s pass$ to ! ,h\se ( 
,hapsburg1 & ?us ultimately fell "u !   
flail ( religi\s p]secution dur+ ! rule 
( h] gr&son1 ,spani% ,philip4 ,close to 
,notre ,dame1 9 ! ,rue ,/4 ,ca!r9e1 is !
 fam\s old ,hospital ( ,/4 ,jean1 !     
r$-brick walls ( :i* rise sleepily f !  
dull wat]s ( ! canal1 j z ,que5s'       
,college1 or ,/4 ,john's1 at ,cambridge1

 rise f ! sluggi% ,cam4 ,"h is pres]v$ !
 ri* %r9e1 or *asse1 resembl+ a l>ge    
,noah's ark1 ( ,/4 ,ursula1 ! sides (   
:i* are pa9t$ ) sc5es f ! virg9's life  
by ,hans ,meml+1 :o1 ?\gh born 9 !      
neighb\rhood ( ,may5ce1 & ?us really by 
bir? a ,g]man1 liv$ = ne>ly a qu>t] ( a 
c5tury or m ( 8 life 9 ,bruges1 & is    
emphatically connect$1 l 8 ma/] ,rog]   
van d] ,weyd5 & ! bro!rs ,van ,eyck1 ) !
 *>m+ e>ly ,flemi% s*ool4 ,!re is a /ory
 t he 0 w\nd$ "u ,*>les le ,tem]aire on 
! /rick5 field ( ,nancy1 & pa9t$ ^!     
gemlike pictures 9 return = ! c>e &     
nurs+ t he receiv$ 9 ! ,hospital ( ,/4  
,jean1 b ?is /ory1 says ,pr(essor ,anton
 ,spr+]1 may be plac$ 9 ! same category 
z ^? ( ,dur]'s malevol5t sp\se1 & ( !   
lic5ti\sness ( ! lat] ,dut* pa9t]s4 ,^! 
sc5es f ! life ( ,/4 ,ursula are h>dly  
less delightfully qua9t ?an ! some:at   
simil> s]ies t 0 pa9t$ by ,c>paccio = ! 
scuola ( ! ,sa9t at ,v5ice1 & t are n[  
pres]v$ 9 ! ,accademia4 ,e>ly ,flemi%   
pa9t+1 9 fact1 9 addition to its own    

peculi> *>m ( microscopic delicacy (    
f9i%1 is h>dly inf]ior1 9 contra/ ) !   
lat] /rong realism & occasional co>s5ess
 ( ,rub5s or ,rembr&t1 to ! t5d] poetic 
dream9ess ( ! primitive ,italians4      
,c]ta9ly ^! pictures1 ?\gh f9i%$ to !   
m9ute/ & mo/ delicate detail1 are lack+ 
9 realism actually to a degree t bord]s 
on a delici\s absurdity4 ,/4 ,ursula &  
h] maid5s--:e!r really elev5 ?\s& or    
elev5--9 ! f9al sc5e ( m>tyrdom await ! 
/roke ( dea? ) ! /oical placidity ( a   
regim5t ( dolls4 ,all ! faces are       
ess5tially ,flemi%1 & "s ( ! virg9s     
display to great advantage ! pretty     
national feature ( ! slight curl 9 "o or
 9 bo? lips4 ,a little f>!r along ! same
 /reet is ! city ,picture ,gall]y1 ) a  
small b admirable collection1 "o ( !    
gems ( :i* is a spl5did ,/4 ,*ri/oph]1 )
 kneel+ donors1 ) _! patron sa9ts on    
ei!r side1 t 0 also pa9t$ by ,meml+ 9   
#adhd1 & ranks z "o ( 8 be/ ef=ts4      
,notice also ! portrait ( ! ,canon ,van 
de ,pael51 pa9t$ by ,jan van ,eyck 9    

#adcf1 & repres5t+ an old *ur*man ) a   
typically heavy ,flemi% face2 & ! r     
unpleasant picture by ,g]>d ,david ( !  
unju/ judge ,sisamnes be+ flay$ alive by
 ord] ( ,k+ ,cambyses4 ,by a turn+ to ! 
"r out ( ! ,rue ,/4 ,ca!r9e1 y come to !
 placid ,m9ne ,wat]1 or ,lac d',am\r1 n 
f> f ! %ores ( :i* is "o ( ^? curi\s    
begu9ages t are *>act]i/ic ( ,fl&]s1 &  
consi/ ( a numb] ( sep>ate little h\ses1
 gr\p$ 9 community1 ea* ( :i* is        
inhabit$ by a begu9e1 or less /rict k9d 
( nun4 ,9 ! h\se ( ! ,lady ,sup]ior is  
pres]v$ ! small1 b v spl5did1 memorial  
brass ( a =m] inmate1 :o di$ at ab\t !  
middle ( ! fifte5? c5tury4  ,w&] :]e y w
 9 ! anci5t /reets ( ,bruges1 & y w n   
fail to discov] ev]y:]e "s delightful   
relic ( antiquity1 or to /umble at e    
/reet corn] on "s new & *>m+ comb9ation 
( old h\ses1 ) _! *>act]i/ic cr[-/epp$1 
or corbie1 gables4 ,new h\ses1 ,i       
suppose1 !re mu/ really be by scores2 b 
^!1 be+ built ) inh]5t good ta/e 7:e!r  
unconsci\s or consci\s ,i d n "k7 9 !   

traditional /yle ( local build+1 & )    
brick t f ! fir/ is mell[ 9 t9t &       
h>monizes ) its sett+1 assimilate at    
once ) _! neighb\rs to "r & left1 & fail
 to (f5d ! eye by any pat*y appe>ance or
 crud5ess4 ,h>dly a s+le /reet 9 ,bruges
 is ?us )\t old-_w *>m2 b ! ar*itectural
 he>t ( ! city mu/ be s\ght 9 its two   
m>ket-places1 call$ respectively ! ,gr&e
 ,place & ! ,place du ,b\rg4 ,9 ! =m]   
are ! brick ,halles1 ) _! fam\s belfry  
t[]+ above ! /ructure bel[ x1 ) true    
,belgian disreg>d = proportion 9 height4
 ,x looks1 inde$1 l t[] pil$ on t[]1    
till "o is almo/ afraid le/ ! f9al      
octagon %\ld be go+ to topple ov]6 ,9 ! 
,place du ,b\rg is a less aspir+ gr\p1  
consi/+ ( ! ,hotel de ,ville1 ! ,*apelle
 du ,sa9t ,sang1 ! ,maison de l',anci5  
,greffe1 & ! ,palais de ,ju/ice--all v  
,flemi% 9 "*1 & all1 9 comb9ation1      
elaborately picturesque4 ,9 ! ,*apel ( !
 ,holy ,blood is pres]v$ ! cry/al cyl9d]
 t is said to en%r9e c]ta9 drops ( !    
blood ( ,our ,savi\r t 7 br\ght f !     

,holy ,l& 9 #aadi by ,!odoric1 ,c\nt (  
,fl&]s1 & in/all$ 9 ! ,romanesque *apel 
t he built = _! reception1 & ! crypt (  
:i* rema9s1 ?\gh ! upp] *apel has long  
s9ce be5 rebuilt1 9 ! fifte5? c5tury4   
,at c]ta9 /at$ times ! relic is exhibit$
 to a cr[d ( devotees1 :o file sl[ly pa/
 to kiss x4 ,"s congeal$ blood ( ,our   
,"l is also said to be pres]v$1 aft]    
rem>kable vicissitudes ( loss & recov]y1
 9 ! ,norman ,abbey ( ,fecamp2 &        
m$iaeval ,gl\ce/]%ire once boa/$ z big a
 treasure1 :i* br\ght great conc\rse &  
popul>ity to ! ,ci/]cian h\se ( ,hayles4
 ,pass b5ea? ! ar*way ( ! ,maison de    
l',anci5 ,greffe1 cross ! sluggi% canal1
 & turn %>ply to ! left1 & foll[1 fir/ !
 cobbl$ ,quai des ,m>bri]s1 & aft]w>ds  
its cont9uation1 ! ,quai ,v]t4 ,pac+ ^! 
sil5t prom5ades1 :i* are bord]$ by      
humble cottages1 y h opposite1 across ! 
wat]1 z also f ! adjac5t ,quai du       
,rosaire1 gr& gr\p+s ( p9nacle1 t[]1 &  
gable1 m delightful ev51 9 p]fection (  
comb9ation & 9 mell[ *>m ( col\r1 ?an ^?

 domes & t[]s ( ,ox=d ^: pres5ce        
,wordswor? confess$1 9 a v indiff]5t    
sonnet1 to ov]p[] 8 sob]ness ( reason4  
,9 ,brussels1 he says else:]e 9 8       
j\rnal1 ! mod]n ta/e 9 co/ume1          
ar*itecture1 etc41 has got ! ma/]y2 9   
,gh5t !re is a /ruggle2 b 9 ,bruges old 
images are /ill p>am\nt1 & an air (     
mona/ic life among ! quiet go+s-on ( a  
?9ly-peopl$ city is inexpressibly soo?+4
 ,a p5sive grace seems to be ca/ ov]    
all1 ev5 ! v *ildr54 ,?is e/imate1 aft] 
! lapse ( consid]ably m ?an half a      
c5tury1 /ill1 on ! :ole1 /&s good4  ,9  
,gh5t !re is a /ruggle4 ,approa*+ ,gh5t1
 inde$1 by railway f ,bruges1 & ) our   
heads full ( old-_w romance ( ,philip   
van ,artevelte1 & ( cont9ually insurg5t 
burgh]s 7= :om ,gh5t 0 r fam\s71 & ( h[ 
,rol&1 my horse )\t pe]1 br\ght good    
news f ,gh5t1 "o is r %ock$ at fir/1 z  
we circle r\nd ! suburbs1 at ! r[s (    
aggressive new h\ses1 & r tempt$ to     
conclude t ! /ruggle has n[ end$1 & t   
mod]nity1 z at ,brussels1 has won ! day 

at ,gh5t4 ,luckily ! d\bt is dissipat$ z
 we quit ! spl5did ,sud /ation--&       
,belgium1 "o may add 9 p>5!sis1 has "s (
 ! mo/ palatial railway-/ations 9 !     
_w--& f9d ourselves once aga9 enme%$ 9 a
 network ( anci5t ?or\ghf>es1 :i*1 if !y
 lack :olly ! absolute quiet1 & 9 "p !  
ar*itectural *>m1 ( ,bruges1 yet        
confront u at e corn] ) abundance (     
old-_w *>m4 ,i suppose ! six great ?+s  
to be se5 9 ,gh5t are ! ca!dral ( ,/4   
,bavon 7& 9 ! ca!dral ! great picture ( 
! ,adoration ( ! ,lamb1 by ,hub]t & ,jan
 van ,eyck72 ! *ur*es ( ,/4 ,mi*el1 ) a 
,crucifixion by ,van ,dyck1 & ,/4       
,ni*olas2 ! wond]ful old h\ses on !     
,quai des ,h]bes2 ! spl5didly so>+      
,belfry2 & possibly ! ,gr&e ,begu9age1  
on ! outskirts ( ! t[n4 ,! ca!dral has !
 usual solit>y we/ t[]1 z at ,ely1 t we 
h n[ come to associate--at ,ypres &     
,bruges--) typical ,belgian *ur*es4 ,!  
great ,van ,eyck is hung 9 a *apel on ! 
s\? ( ! *oir1 & ! s]vices ( ! v]g] mu/  
be s\ght = its exhibition4 ,! pa9t+s on 

! %utt]s are m]ely copies by ,coxie1 six
 ( ! orig9als be+ 9 ! ,picture ,gall]y 9
 ,b]l94 ,_! re/oration to ,gh5t1 "o     
hopes1 w =m a fractional dis*>ge ( !    
swiftly accumulat+ debt t ,g]many owes  
to ,belgium4 ,! f\r ma9 panels1 h[ev]1  
are g5u9e "w ( ! e>ly fifte5? c5tury1 ! 
r]$os z a :ole hav+ be5 begun by ,hub]t1
 & f9i%$ by ,jan van ,eyck 9 #adcb4 ,!  
c5tre-piece is 9 illu/ration ( ! text 9 
! ,apocalypse 7v4 #ab73 ,wor?y is !     
,lamb t 0 sla9 to receive p[]1 & ri*es1 
& wisdom1 & /r5g?1 & hon\r1 & glory1 &  
bless+4 ,"o may "q1 inde$1 if figurative
 language ( ! k9d 9 "q c ev] be         
successfully transf]r$ to canvas2 :e!r  
?is lit]al lamb1 on its r$-damask$      
table1 9 ! mid/ ( ^! c>efully m>%all$   
squadrons ( ,apo/les1 ,popes1 & ,pr9ces1
 c ev] q escape a h9t ( some?+ ludicr\s4
 ,"o may "q all ?is1 yet /ill admire to 
! full bo? ! _s ( devotion t inspir$ ?is
 m>vell\s picture & its miracle ( m9ute 
& jewel-l execution4 ,!re are scores (  
o!r good pictures 9 ,gh5t1 includ+ 7n   

ev5 to g outside ,/4 ,bavon's7 ! ,*ri/  
among ! ,doctors by ,francis ,p\rbus1   
into :i* portraits ( ,philip ,,ii4 (    
,spa91 ! ,emp]or ,*>les ,v41 & ! infam\s
 ,duke ( ,alva--names ( t]rible import 9
 ! sixte5?-c5tury hi/ory ( !            
,ne!rl&s--are introduc$ among ! by/&]s2 
:il/ to ! left ( ,philip is ,p\rbus     
himself1 ) a greyi% cap on :i* is       
inscrib$ ,franciscus ,p\rbus1 #aefg4 ,b 
x is always to ! ,adoration ( ! ,my/ic  
,lamb t our /eps are fir/ direct$1 & to 
:i* !y always return4  ,x is h>d1 inde$1
 t necessities ( space %\ld compel u to 
pass s lightly ov] o!r t[ns 9           
,fl&]s--ov] ,c\rtrai1 ) its noble       
example ( a =tifi$ bridge1 & ) its great
 picture1 by ,van ,dyck1 ( ! ,rais+ ( ! 
,cross t 0 /ol5 my/]i\sly a few ye>s ago
 f ! *ur* ( ,notre ,dame1 b has s9ce1 l 
! ,joconde at ! ,l\vre1 be5 recov]$ &   
replac$2 ov] ,oud5>de1 ) its two f9e    
*ur*es1 & its small t[n hall t is fam\s 
= its spl5d\r ev5 9 a c\ntry ! ,hotels  
de ,ville ( :i* are easily ! mo/        

elaborate 7if n always ! mo/ *a/e or    
really beautiful7 9 ,europe2 & ov] c]ta9
 v m9or places1 su* z ,damme1 to !      
nor?-ea/ ( ,bruges1 ^: sil5t1 sunny     
/reets1 & half-des]t$ *ur*es1 seem to   
brea! ! v _s ( ,flemi% m$iaevalism4 ,( !
 %ort /rip ( ,flemi% coa/1 f ne>        
,knocke1 pa/ ! fa%ionable mod]n         
ba?+-places ( ,hey/1 ,blank5b]ghe1 &    
,o/5de1 to a po9t beyond ,la ,panne--f  
bord] to bord] x measures r\ghly only "s
 =ty miles1 & is almo/ absolutely       
/raight--,i will+ly say little1 = x     
seems to me b a little ?+ :5 comp>$ )   
?is glori\s inl& weal? ( ar*itecture &  
pa9t+4 ,rec5tly x has develop$ 9 e      
direction1 & is n[ almo/ cont9u\sly a   
?91 brilliantly sc>let l9e ( small      
bungal[s1 villas1 & lodg+-h\ses1 l9k$ up
 along ! front by esplanades & cas9os1  
:]e only a few ye>s ago ! f5l& met ! sea
 9 a *a9 ( roll+ s&-dunes t 7 peopl$    
only by rabbits1 & c>pet$ only ) ru%es &
 co>se grass4 ,ab\t ta/es !re is no     
disput+2 & !re are p1 no d\bt1 :o1 = "s 

odd reason1 f9d ?is k9d ( aggressive    
mod]nity 9 "s way m attractive 9        
,belgium ?an 9 ,k5t4 ,= myself1 ,i      
confess1 x h>dly seems wor? :ile to     
incur ! p5alty ( sea-sickness m]ely to  
play golf on ! ru9$ %ore ( ,fl&]s4      
,,iii4   ,( ,brussels ,i d n propose to 
say v mu*1 because ,brussels1 al?\gh !  
brighte/ & gaye/ t[n 9 ,belgium1 &      
al?\gh reta9+ 9 its ,gr&e ,place1 & 9 ! 
build+s t imm$iately surr\nd ?is la/1 z 
well z 9 its great *ur* ( ,/4 ,gudule   
7:i*1 9 spite ( popul> usage1 is n1 &   
nev] 01 9 ! prop] s5se a ca!dral71      
relics ( antiquity ( ! v highe/ value & 
int]e/1 yet ,brussels1 z a :ole1 is s   
di/9ctively a mod]n1 & ev5 cosmopolitan 
city1 & has s mu* g5]al resemblance to  
,p>is 7?\gh its site is f> m            
picturesque1 & ?\gh ! place1 to my m9d  
at lea/1 j because x is small] & m      
easily compreh5sible1 is a mu* m        
agreeable spot to /ay 971 t x seems     
bett] 9 a sket* t is pr9cipally devot$  
to :at is old & nationally *>act]i/ic 9 

,belgium to give :at limit$ space "o has
 to a consid]ation r ( t[ns l ,l\va9 or 
,mal9es1 9 :i* ! special ,belgian flav\r
 is n :olly ov]:elm$ by false &         
extrane\s influ5ces4 ,/4 ,gudule1 (     
c\rse1 %\ld c]ta9ly be visit$1 n only = 
! sake ( ! g5]al fabric1 :i*1 not)/&+   
its possession ( ,,two we/ t[]s1 is     
typically ,belgian 9 its g5]al "*1 b    
also = ! sake ( its magnific5t sixte5? &
 sev5te5? c5tury glass1 & especially = !
 sake ( ! five great w9d[s 9 ! ,*apelle 
du ,sa9t ,sacrem5t1 :i* illu/rate 9 a   
blaze ( gorge\s col\r ! /ory ( h[       
,jona?an ! ,jew brib$ ,jeanne de ,l\va9 
to /eal ! ?ree ,consecrat$ ,waf]s1 f :i*
 ooz$1 :5 sacrilegi\sly /abb$ by !      
sceptical ,jew1 ! ,sacr$ ,blood ( a _w's
 r$emption4 ,?is /ory is told aga9--or  
r1 p]haps1 a simil> /ory--9 ! spl5did   
pa9t$ glass f ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,eloi t is n[
 pres]v$ at ,r\5 9 ! ,ar*aeological     
,museum4 ,z = ! ,gr&e ,place1 or orig9al
 m>ket-place ( ! city1 :i* is b\nd$ on  
"o side by ! magnific5t ,hotel de       

,ville1 on ! opposite side by ! r heavy1
 rebuilt ,maison du ,roi1 & on ! rema9+ 
two sides *iefly by ! spl5did old       
sev5te5?-c5tury ,corporation ,h\ses ( ! 
v>i\s anci5t city guilds--,le ,r5>d1 !  
h\se ( ! silk-m]c]s & hab]da%]s2 ,maison
 ,cornet1 ! h\se ( ! boatm51 or         
batelli]s2 ,la ,l\vre1 ! h\se ( ! ar*]s2
 ,la ,br\ette1 ! h\se ( ! c>p5t]s2 ,le  
,sac1 ! h\se ( ! pr9t]s & booksell]s2 ! 
,cygne1 ! h\se ( ! but*]s2 & o!r h\ses t
 ne$ n be specifi$ at any great] l5g?1 (
 ! tailors1 pa9t]s1 & brew]s--?is is    
probably ! complete/ & mo/ spl5did      
example ( an anci5t city m>ket-squ>e t  
n[ rema9s 9 ,europe1 & absolutely )\t   
rival ev5 9 ,belgium itself1 ?\gh simil>
 old guild-h\ses1 9 ! same delightful   
,flemi% fa%ion1 may /ill be f\nd 7?\gh 9
 ?is case ) admixture ( _m mod]n        
build+s7 9 ! ,gr&e ,place at ,antw]p4 ,x
 0 9 ?is spl5did squ>e at ,brussels t ! 
unhappy ,c\nts ( ,egmont & ,horn 7      
brutally done to dea?1 to glut ! s9i/]  
tyranny ( ,spani% ,philip1 on ,june #e1 

#aefh4  ,also1 9 addition to ^! two     
sup]lative antiquities1 two mod]n       
build+s 9 ,brussels1 ?\gh = widely      
diff]5t reasons1 c h>dly be pass$ ov] "u
 plea ( lack ( space4 ,cr[n+ ! highe/   
po9t ( ! city1 & t[]+ itself t[>ds heav5
 9 a /up5d\s pile ( masonry1 is !       
enorm\s new ,palais de ,ju/ice1 probably
 ! mo/ impos+ law c\rts 9 ! _w4 ,engli% 
,law und\bt$ly is h\s$ ) mu* great]     
mode/y1 ?\gh n )\t due magnific5ce1 9 ! 
altoge!r humbl] levels ( ! ,/r&4 ,also 9
 ! ,high ,t[n--:i* is ! mod]n qu>t] (   
,brussels1 9 contra/ ) ! m$iaeval ,l[   
,t[n1 :i* lies 9 ! flat bel[--is !      
,royal ,museum ( ,anci5t ,pa9t+s1 :i*   
probably divides hon\rs ) ! ,picture    
,gall]y at ,antw]p z ! f9e/ & mo/       
repres5tative collection ( pictures ( ! 
,ne!rl&i% s*ool 9 ! _w4 ,"h y may revel 
by ! h\r 9 a c&lelight effect by ,g]>d  
,d[2 9 ! p\ltry ( ,mel*ior              
d',hondecoet]2 9 a pig/y ( ,paul        
,pott]'s2 9 l&scapes by ,me9d]t         
,hobbema2 9 a moonlight l&scape ( ,van  

d] ,ne]'s2 9 a village sc5e by ,jan     
,/e52 9 ! gallant _w ( ,t5i]s2 & 9 !    
weird imag9+s ( ,piet] ,brueghel !      
y\ng]4 ,! greate/ pictures 9 ! :ole     
collection1 ,i suppose1 are ^? by       
,rub5s1 ?\gh he has no?+ "h t is        
comp>able = a mom5t ) ^? 9 ! ,picture   
,gall]y & ,ca!dral at ,antw]p4 ,v       
magnific5t1 h[ev]1 is ! ,woman tak5 9   
,adult]y1 ! ,adoration ( ! ,magi1 !     
,int]c$] ,int]c$$ 7! ,virg91 at ! pray] 
( ,/4 ,francis d',assisi1 re/ra9s !     
angry ,savi\r f de/roy+ a wick$ _w71 & !
 ,m>tyrdom ( ,/4 ,liv9ius4 ,?is la/1    
h[ev]--l ! ,crucifixion 9 ! ,antw]p     
,gall]y2 l ,van ,dyck's picture 9 ?is   
collection ( ! drunk5 ,sil5us support$  
by a fawn2 & l ,rub5s' own disgu/+      
,sil5us 9 our ,national ,gall]y at      
home--illu/rates unpleasantly ! pa9ful  
,flemi% facility to condesc5d to        
details1 or ev5 :ole conceptions1 !     
realism ( :i* is unnecess>ily delib]ate 
& co>se4 ,"h1 9 ?is dea? ( ,/4 ,liv9ius1
 ! execution] is %[n 9 ! act ( pres5t+  

to a dog ) p9c]s ! ble$+ tongue t he has
 j cut out ( ! m\? ( ! dy+ prie/4       
,brussels itself1 z already intimat$1 is
 an exce$+ly pleasant city = a m or less
 prolong$ /ay2 &1 ow+ at once to !      
admirable sy/em ( ,rundreise tickets t  
are issu$ by ! ,/ate railways at an     
uncommonly l[ price1 to ! r dubi\s      
quality ( ! hotels 9 "s ( ! small] t[ns1
 & to ! c>d9al fact t ,brussels is a    
c5tre f :i* mo/ ( ! o!r great cities (  
,belgium--,mal9es1 ,gh5t1 ,antw]p1 &    
,liege1 n to m5tion small] t[ns (       
absorb+ int]e/1 su* z ,mons1 ,namur1    
,hal1 ,tirlemont1 ,leau1 &              
,soignies--may be easily visit$1 m or   
less completely1 9 ! c\rse ( a s+le     
day--ow+ to all ^! facts _m p w be glad 
to make ?is pleasant city _! c5tre1 or  
headqu>t]s1 = ! leisurely exploration ( 
mo/ ( ,belgium1 ) ! exception ( ! m     
di/ant & out-(-!-way di/ricts ( ,we/    
,fl&]s & ! ,ard5nes4 ,all ! places      
enum]at$ are ?or\ghly wor? visit+1 b    
obvi\sly only ! m important c be dealt )

 m ?an j casually "h4 ,mons1 on a hill  
ov]look+ ! great coalfield ( ! ,bor9age1
 ) its /range pyramidal spoil-heaps1 is 
itself curi\sly free f ! dirt & squalor 
( an ,engli% colli]y t[n2 & equally wor?
 visit+ = ! sake ( its spl5did ca!dral (
 ,/4 ,w&ru1 ! ri*ly poly*romatic effect 
( ^: int]ior1 due to ! conjunction (    
deep r$-brick vault+ ) ! d>k blue ( its 
lime/one capitals & pi]s1 illu/rates    
ano!r pleasant phase ( ,belgian         
ecclesia/ical ar*itecture1 z well z = ! 
sake ( a conte/1 almo/ ( ye/]day1 t has 
add$ new & immortal laurels to ! g5ius (
 ,briti% battle4 ,t\rnai1 on ! upp]     
,s*eldt1 or ,escaut1 is rem>kable = !   
heavy ,romanesque nave ( its ca!dral1   
:i* is built ( ! fam\s local black      
m>ble1 z well z = its rem>kable c5tral  
clu/] ( five great t[]s4 ,soignies 79   
,flemi% ,zirick71 r\ghly half-way betwe5
 ,mons & ,brussels1 & probably little   
visit$1 has a sombre old abbey *ur*1 (  
,/4 ,v9c5t ,maldegaire1 t 0 built 9 !   
twelf? c5tury1 & t is enri*$ inside )   

su* a collection ( spl5didly c>v$       
classical woodwork--/alls1 mis]icordes1 
& pulpit--z y w sc>cely f9d else:]e ev5 
9 ,belgium4 ,! pulpit 9 p>ticul> is     
wond]ful1 ) its life-siz$ girl          
support]s1 ) _! graceful & lightly pois$
 figures1 & pure & lovely faces4 ,namur1
 /rangely en\gh1 has really no?+ (      
antiquity outside ! doors ( its         
,ar*aeological ,museum1 b is wor? a     
visit if only = ! pleasure ( prom5ad+   
/reets :i*1 if almo/ :olly mod]n1 are   
unusually clean & bright4 ,tirlemont1   
aga91 has two old *ur*es t w n delay y  
long1 ?\gh ,notre ,dame de ,lac has     
rem>kably f9e confessionals ( ! dawn ( !
 sev5te5? c5tury1 & ?\gh ! spl5did      
brass-"w ( ! font & bapti/]y lect]n at  
,/4 ,g]ma9s w\ld alone be wor? a visit2 
b ,leau1 = :i* ,tirlemont is ! junction1
 is s qua9t & curi\s a little t[n1 &    
comes s mu* 9 ! guise ( a pleasant      
discov]y--s9ce ,ba$ek] b>ely m5tions    
x--t1 ev5 ap>t f its p]fect weal? ( wood
 & brass "w 9 ! f9e ?irte5?-c5tury *ur* 

( ,/4 ,leonh>d1 x might anyh[ be ?\ght  
to ju/ify a visit to ?is little visit$  
corn] ( ,s\? ,brabant4 ,i d n "k t !    
brass-"w c\ld be easily mat*$ else:]e3 !
 huge /&>d c&elabrum to ! nor? ( ! alt>1
 ) its cr[n+ ,crucifixion2 ! lect]n1 )  
its triumphant eagle & pro/rate dragon2 
! font1 ) its cov]1 & ! holy-wat] /\p   
almo/ z big z a small font 79 ,brittany 
,i h se5 !m z big z a ba?72 & !         
beautiful brass rail+s t surr\nd !      
spl5did ,tab]nacle t 0 execut$ 9 #aeeb  
by ,cornelius de ,vri5dt1 ! bro!r ( !   
pa9t] ,frans ,floris1 & t t[]s high into
 ! vault+ to a height ( fifty-two feet4 
,"o realizes m completely 9 a quiet     
village *ur* l ?is ! bread? & int5sity (
 ! wave ( arti/ic impulse t swept ?r\gh 
! ,l[l&s 9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies
 ?an is possible 9 half a doz5 hurri$   
visits to a picture gall]y at ,antw]p or
 ,brussels4 ,f9ally ,hal1 to conclude   
our li/ ( m9or places1 has a gr&        
f\rte5?-c5tury *ur*1 ) a miracle-work+  
,virg91 & a little r$-brick t[n hall (  

*>act]i/ically picturesque aspect4  ,!  
railway j\rney f ,brussels to ,antw]p   
trav]ses a typical bit ( ,belgian       
l&scape t is z flat z a pancake2 & !    
monotony is only reliev$1 fir/ by !     
little t[n ( ,vilvoorde1 :]e ,william   
,tyndale 0 burnt at ! /ake on ,octob]   
#f1 #aecf1 ?\gh n alive1 hav+ fir/ be5  
m]cifully /rangl$1 & aft]w>ds by ! s+le1
 huge1 squ>e t[] ( ,mal9es 7or ,me*l97  
,ca!dral1 :i* dom9ates ! pla9 f enorm\s 
di/ances1 l ! t[]s ( ,ely or ,l9coln1   
?\gh n1 l ^! la/1 by virtue ( position  
on a hill1 b solely by its own va/      
height & ov]:elm+ massiv5ess4 ,mal9es1  
?\gh c]ta9ly conta9+ few] objects (     
p>ticul> int]e/ ?an ,bruges1 & ?\gh     
c]ta9ly on ! :ole a less beautiful city1
 /rikes "o z h>dly less dead-&-alive1 & 
altoge!r may fairly claim second place  
among ! l>g] ,belgian cities 7x h\ses m 
?an fifty ?\s& s\ls7 9 po9t ( m$iaeval  
"*4 ,! great ?irte5? & f\rte5? c5tury   
ca!dral ( ,/4 ,rombaut has be5 ! seat ( 
an ar*bi%opric s9ce ! sixte5? c5tury1 & 

is /ill ! metropolitan *ur* ( ,belgium4 
,ext]nally ! body1 l ! m>ket-hall at    
,bruges1 is almo/ entirely cru%$ into   
insignificance by ! utt]ly              
disproportionate height & bulk ( ! huge 
we/ t[]1 ! top ( :i*1 ev5 9 its pres5t  
unf9i%$ /ate 7"o almo/ hopes t x may    
nev] be f9i%$71 is actually ?ree hundr$ 
& tw5ty-f\r feet high4 ,bo/on ,/ump is  
only two hundr$ & eighty feet to ! top (
 ! wea!r vane1 b inf9itely slimm] 9     
proportion2 :il/ ev5 ,salisbury spire is
 only ab\t f\r hundr$ odd feet4         
,imm$iately bel[ ! p>apet is ! enorm\s  
skeleton clock-face1 ! proportions ( :i*
 are reproduc$ on ! pavem5t ( !         
m>ket-place bel[4 ,! c>illons 9 ?is t[] 
are an extravagant example ( ! ,belgian 
passion = *im+ bells4 ,once safely      
inside ! *ur*1 & ! mon/] t[] =gott51 &  
we are able to admire its delicate      
int]nal proportions1 & ! rem>kable      
ornam5t ( ! sp&rels 9 ! great ma9       
arcades ( ! *oir4 ,un=tunately1 mu* (   
?is int]ior1 l t ( ,/4 ,pi]re at ,l\va91

 is smo!r$ "u half an in* ( pla/]2 b :]e
 ?is has be5 remov$ 9 t5tative pat*es1  
reveal+ ! d>k blue drums ( ! s+le1      
circul> columns ( ! arcades1 ! g5]al    
effect is imm5sely improv$4 ,"o w\ld    
also l to s5d to ! scrap-heap ! enorm\s 
sev5te5?-c5tury figures ( ! ,apo/les on 
_! consoles on ! pi]s1 :i* =m s bad a   
disfigurem5t 9 ! nave4 ,! treasure ( !  
*ur* is ! great ,crucifixion by ,van    
,dyck1 :i* is hung 9 ! s\? transept1 b  
g5]ally kept cov]$4 ,to see o!r /ately  
pictures y mu/ g to ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,jean1 
:]e is a spl5did alt> tripty* by ,rub5s1
 ! c5tre panel ( :i* is ! ,adoration ( !
 ,magi2 or to ! fifte5?-c5tury /ructure 
( ,notre ,dame au dela de la ,dyle 7!   
clumsy title is us$1 ,i suppose1 = !    
sake ( di/9ction f ! classical ,notre   
,dame d',hanswyck71 :]e ,rub5s'         
,miracul\s ,draught ( ,fi%es is         
sometimes consid]$ ! pa9t]'s ma/]piece4 
,x is n yet cle> :e!r ?is noble picture 
has be5 de/roy$ 9 ! rec5t bomb>dm5t4    
,ev5 to ^? :o c>e little = art1 a /roll 

to ^! two old *ur*es ?r\gh ! sleepy     
back-/reets ( ,mal9es1 ) _! :ite & sunny
 h\ses1 c h>dly fail to gratify4  ,if   
,mal9es is a backwat] ( ! ,middle ,"t1 z
 somnol5t or z dull 7s "s1 ,i suppose1  
w\ld call x7 z ! /range dead t[ns ( !   
,zuyd] ,zee1 or z ,cogge%all or ,?axt$ 9
 our own gre5 ,essex1 ,antw]p1 at any   
rate1 :i* lies only "s fifte5 miles or s
 to ! nor? ( x1 is v mu* awake1 & (     
aspect mo/ly mod]n1 ?\gh n )\t "s v     
curi\s & *>m+ relics ( antiquity emb$d$ 
9 ! he>t ( mu* rec5t /one & mort>4      
,p]haps x w be well to visit "o ( ^! at 
once1 tak+ ! tram direct f ! magnific5t 
,g>e de l',e/ 7no less] epi!t is j7 to !
 ,place ,v]te1 :i* may be consid]$ !    
real c5tre ( ! city2 & mak+ our way !nce
 by a network ( quiet] back-/reets to ! 
,musee ,plant9-,moretus1 :i* is ! goal (
 our imm$iate ambition4 ,i br+ y "h at  
once1 n m]ely because ! place itself is 
q unique & ( q exceptional int]e/1 b    
because x /rikes precisely t note ( real
 antiquity t und]lies ! mod]n d9 & bu/le

 ( ,antw]p1 ?\gh apt to be obscur$      
unless we li/5 ne$fully4 ,happy1 inde$1 
0 ! inspiration t mov$ ! city to buy ?is
 h\se f its la/ private possessor1      
,edw>d ,moretus1 9 #ahgf4 ,to /ep across
 ?is ?re%old is to /ep directly into !  
m]*ant atmosph]e ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,! 
once great pr9t+ h\se ( ,plant9-,moretus
 0 f\nd$ by ! ,fr5*man1 ,*ri/oph]       
,plant91 :o 0 born at ,/4 ,av5t91 ne>   
,t\rs1 9 #aead1 & began 8 bus9ess life z
 a book-b9d] at ,r\54 ,9 #aedi he remov$
 to ,antw]p1 & 0 !re innoc5tly involv$  
"o night 9 a riot 9 ! /reets1 :i*       
result$ 9 an injury t incapacitat$ him =
 8 =m] trade1 & necessitat$ 8 turn+ to  
"s new employm5t4 ,he n[ set up z pr9t]1
 ) rem>kable success1 & 0 a suffici5tly 
important citiz5 at ! date ( 8 dea?1 9  
#aehi1 to be buri$ 9 8 own vault "u a   
*apel 9 ! ,ca!dral4 ,! bus9ess pass$1 on
 8 decease1 to 8 son-9-law1 ,jean       
,mo]torf1 :o _h m>ri$ 8 daught]1 ,m>t9e1
 9 #aegj1 & _h ,lat9iz$ 8 surname to    
,moretus 9 accordance ) ! curi\s cu/om t

 prevail$ among s*ol>s ( ! sixte5?      
c5tury4 ,?us ,s]vetus 0 really ,miguel  
,s]vete1 & ,?omas ,era/us 0 ,?omas      
,lieb]4 ,! f\ndation ( ! =tunes ( ! h\se
 0 und\bt$ly its monopoly--analog\s to t
 enjoy$ by ! ,engli% h\se (             
,spottiswoode1 & by ! two eld]          
,univ]sities--( pr9t+ ! liturgical      
works--,missals1 ,antiphons1 ,psalt]s1  
,brevi>ies1 etc4--t 7 us$ ?r\gh\t !     
,spani% dom9ions4 ,no attempt1 h[ev]1   
seems to h be5 made 9 ! lat] /ages ( !  
hi/ory ( ! h\se to adopt improv$ ma*9]y1
 or to recon/ruct ! orig9al1 antiquat$  
build+s4 ,! e/abli%m5t1 accord+ly1 :5 x 
0 tak5 ov] by ! city 9 #ahgf1 reta9$    
virtually ! same aspect z x _h worn 9 ! 
sev5te5? c5tury1 & rema9s to ! pres5t   
day p]haps ! be/ example 9 ! _w ( an    
old-fa%ion$ city bus9ess h\se ( ! hone/ 
"t :5 m]*ant-pr9ces 7 cont5t to live    
above _! (fice1 in/ead ( seek+ solace 9 
smug suburban villas4 ,! place has be5  
pres]v$ exactly z x /ood1 & ev5 ! pres5t
 att5dants are correctly clad 9 ! sob]  

br[n g>b ( ! s]vants ( ?ree hundr$ ye>s 
s9ce4 ,x is int]e/+1 n only 9 itself1 b 
z an excell5t example ( h[ bus9ess &    
high culture 7 successfully comb9$ "u ! 
happi] economic conditions ( ! sev5te5? 
& eighte5? c5turies4 ,! ,plant9-,moretus
 family held a high position 9 ! civic  
life ( ,antw]p1 & mix$ 9 ! intellectual 
& arti/ic society = :i* ,antw]p 0 fam$ 9
 ! sev5te5? c5tury--! ,antw]p ( ,rub5s  
7?\gh n a native7 & ,van ,dyck1 (       
,jorda5s1 ( ! two ,t5i]s1 ( ,gray]1     
,zeg]s1 & ,snyd]s4 ,pr9t+1 inde$1 9 ^?  
days 0 itself a f9e art1 & ! glories ( !
 h\se ( ,plant9-,moretus rivall$ ^? ( ! 
lat] ,*iswick ,press1 & ( ! goodly      
,*auc]s edit$ 9 our own "t by ,pr(essor 
,skeat1 & pr9t$ by ,william ,morris4    
,pro(-read+ 0 !n an erudite pr(ession1 &
 ,francois ,ravel+51 :o ent]$ ,plant9's 
(fice z pro(-read] 9 #aefd1 & assi/$    
,arias ,montanus 9 revis+ ! %eets ( !   
,polyglot ,bible1 is said to h be5 a    
great ,greek & ,ori5tal s*ol>1 & cr[n$ a
 c>e] ( hon\rable toil1 l ,hog>?'s      

,indu/ri\s ,appr5tice1 by m>ry+ 8 ma/]'s
 elde/ daught]1 ,m>gu]ite1 9 #aefe4 ,!  
room 9 :i* ^! s*ol>s work$ rema9s mu* 9 
its old condition1 ) ! table at :i* !y  
sat1 & "s ( _! portraits on ! wall4     
,ev]y?+ "h1 9 %ort1 is int]e/+3 !       
press-room1 :i* 0 us$ almo/ cont9u\sly &
 practically )\t *ange--two ( !         
antiquat$ presses ( ,plant9's own "t    
rema9--= ne>ly ?ree c5turies2 ! ,great &
 ,little ,libr>ies1 ) _! spl5did        
collection ( books2 ! ar*ive room1 ) its
 long s]ies ( bus9ess acc\nts & l$g]s2 !
 private liv+rooms ( ! ,moretus family2 
& la/1 b n lea/1 ! mode/ little %op1 :]e
 books /ill repose ^u ! %elves1 :i*     
looks z ?\gh ! salesman might return at 
any mom5t to 8 place beh9d ! c\nt]4     
,engl& has c]ta9ly no?+ l x1 ?\gh       
,london _h till rec5tly 9 ,crosby ,hall 
a great m]*ant's h\se ( ! fifte5?       
c5tury1 ?\gh /ripp$ ( all int]nal fitt+s
 & propriety4 ,luckily ?is la/ has be5  
re-erect$ at ,*elsea1 ?\gh robb$ by !   
*ange ( site ( half its au!nticity &    

value4  ,i h *os5 to dwell on ?is /range
 museum at l5g? t seems                 
disproportionate1 n m]ely because ( its 
unique "*1 b because x seems to me full 
( lessons & reproa* = an age t has      
subord9at$ hone/ workman%ip to *eap &   
%oddy productiv5ess1 & has sacrific$ !  
workman to ma*9]y4 ,c]ta9ly no "o :o    
visits ,antw]p c af=d to ov]look x2 b   
probably mo/ p w fir/ b5d _! /eps t[>ds 
! m popul> %r9e ( ! great ca!dral4 ,"h  
,i confess myself utt] h]etic3 to call  
?is *ur*1 z ,i h se5 x call$1 "o ( !    
gr&e/ 9 ,europe1 seems to me pure       
,phili/9ism--! cult ( ! m]ely big &     
obvi\s1 to ! disreg>d ( delicacy &      
beauty4 ,big x is assur$ly1 &           
sup]ficially a/oni%+2 b any?+ m b>n-l   
ar*itecturally1 or spiritually unexalt+1
 ,i c h>dly call to memory4 ,outside x  
lacks entirely all %ad[ ( homog5eity2 ! 
abs5ce ( a c5tral t[]1 felt p]haps ev5 9
 ! great ca!drals ( ,pic>dy & ! ,ile de 
,france1 j z x is felt 9 ,we/m9/] & 9   
,bev]ley ,m9/]1 is "h actually acc5tuat$

 by ! hide\s little cupola--,i h>dly "k 
h[ prop]ly to call x--t squats1 z ?\gh 9
 d]ision1 above ! cross+2 :il/ ev5 !    
natural meet+ & int]section at ?is po9t 
( high ro(s1 :i* 9 itself w\ld rise to  
dignity1 is wantonly neglect$ to make   
way = ?is mon/rosity4 ,! *ur*1 9 fact1  
looks1 :5 view$ ext]nally1 m l f\r      
sep>ate *ur*es ?an "o2 & :5 we /ep      
inside1 ) all ! be/ w 9 ! _w to make !  
be/ ( x1 x is h>d to f9d1 mu* to admire1
 & any?+ at all to love1 9 ^! acres (   
dismally :itewa%$ walls1 & long1 feeble 
l9es ( arcades )\t capitals4 ,! inh]5t  
vice ( ,belgian ar*itecture--its lack ( 
really beautiful detail1 & its fussy    
sup]fluity ( p9nacle & panell+--seems to
 me "h to culm9ate4 ,belgium has really 
beautiful *ur*es--n m]ely ( ! ?irte5?   
c5tury1 :5 build+ 0 lovely ev]y:]e1 b   
lat] build+s1 l ,mons1 & ,/4 ,pi]re at  
,l\va92 b ,antw]p is n ( ?is category4  
,ar*itecturally1 p]haps1 ! be/ feature (
 ! :ole *ur* is ! l(ty spire 7ov] f\r   
hundr$ feet71 :i* curi\sly resembles 9  

g5]al outl9e t ( ! ,hotel de ,ville at  
,brussels 7?ree hundr$ & sev5ty feet71 &
 dates f ab\t ! same p]iod 7r\ghly !    
middle ( ! fifte5? c5tury74 ,z usual 9  
,belgium1 x is q out ( scale2 x is      
lucky1 inde$1 t ! correspond+ s\?-we/   
t[] has nev] be5 complet$1 = !          
comb9ation ( ! two w\ld be almo/        
ov]:elm+4 ,x is curi\s & int]e/+ z an   
example ( a t[] tap]+ upw>ds to a po9t 9
 a succession ( dim9i%+ /ages1 9 contra/
 ) t[] & spire4 ,france has some?+ l x1 
?\gh f> m beautiful1 9 ! ?irte5?-c5tury 
t[] at ,s5lis2 b ,engl& af=ds no        
p>allel4 ,i am n sure :o inv5t$ ! q     
happy phrase1 ,confection]'s ,go?ic1 b  
?is t[] at ,antw]p is n badly describ$  
by x4 ,x is altoge!r too elaborate &    
florid1 l ! sug> p9nacle ( a w$d+-cake4 
,?is ca!dral ( ,antw]p1 h[ev]1 ?\gh at !
 "t t x 0 built a m]e collegiate *ur* ( 
secul> canons1 & only fir/ exalt$ to    
ca!dral rank 9 #aeei1 is "o ( ! l>ge/   
*ur*es 9 sup]ficial area 9 ! _w1 a      
result l>gely due to its possession1    

uniquely1 ( n less ?an six aisles1 giv+ 
x a total bread? ( "o hundr$ & sev5ty   
feet4 ,hung 9 ! two transepts           
respectively are ! two great pictures by
 ,rub5s--! ,elevation ( ! ,cross & !    
,desc5t f ! ,cross--t are describ$ at   
su* l5g?1 & ) s mu* critical en?usiasm1 
by ,sir ,jo%ua ,reynolds 9 8 ,j\rney to 
,fl&]s & ,holl&4 ,! ,desc5t f ! ,cross1 
pa9t$ by ,rub5s 9 #afab1 :5 he 0 only   
?irty-five ye>s old1 is p]haps ! m      
spl5did1 & is specially rem>kable = !   
d>+ ) :i* ! arti/ has successfully      
v5tur$ 7:at none b great col\ri/s c     
v5ture7 to pa9t pure :ite l95 ne> fle%4 
,8 ,*ri/1 cont9ues ,sir ,jo%ua1 ,i      
consid] z "o ( ! f9e/ figures t ev] 0   
inv5t$3 x is mo/ correctly drawn1 & ,i  
appreh5d 9 an attitude ( ! utmo/        
difficulty to execute4 ,! hang+ ( ! head
 on ,8 %\ld]1 & ! fall+ ( ! body on "o  
side1 gives su* an appe>ance ( !        
heav9ess ( dea?1 t no?+ c exce$ x4      
,antw]p1 ( c\rse1 is full ( magnific5t  
pa9t+s by ,rub5s1 ?\gh un=tunately !    

h\se 9 :i* he liv$ 9 ! ,place de ,meir  
7:i* is trav]s$ by ! tram on its way f !
 ,e/ ,/ation to ! ,place ,v]te71 :i* 0  
built by him 9 #afaa1 & 9 :i* he di$ 9  
#afdj1 0 almo/ entirely rebuilt 9 #agjc4
 ,!re is ano!r great ,crucifixion by !  
ma/] 9 ! ,picture ,gall]y1 or ,palais   
des ,beaux ,arts1 :i* illu/rates 8      
exceptional p[] z well z 8 occasional   
brutality4 ,! c5turion1 ) 8 h&s on !    
nape ( 8 horse's neck1 is gaz+ ) horror 
at ! wri?+s ( ! imp5it5t ?ief1 ^: legs  
are be+ brok5 ) an iron b>1 :i* has s   
tortur$ ! unhappy man t 9 8 agony he has
 torn 8 left foot f ! nail4 ,x is       
que/ionable :e!r any spl5d\r ( success c
 ev] ju/ify a man 9 ?us condesc5d+ to   
draw inspiration f ! torture-room or    
%ambles4  ,"o w\ld gladly sp5d m "t 9   
?is ,antw]p gall]y1 :i* exce$s1 ,i ?9k1 
9 g5]al magnific5ce ! collections at    
,brussels & ,am/]dam2 & gladly w\ld "o  
visit ! great fifte5? & sixte5? c5tury  
*ur*es ( ,/4 ,jacques1 ,/4 ,&re1 & ,/4  
,paul1 :i* n m]ely =m toge!r            

ar*itecturally an important gr\p ( a    
/rongly localiz$ "*1 b are also1 l !    
ca!dral1 v]itable museums or picture    
gall]ies4 ,x is necess>y1 h[ev]1 to     
conclude ?is section1 to say a few words
 ab\t ,l\va91 :i*1 ly+ z x does on ! ma9
 r\te f ,brussels to ,liege1 may        
naturally be consid]$ on our way to !   
nor!rn ,ard5nes4  ,l\va91 on ! :ole1 has
 be5 mu* m mod]niz$ ?an o!r ,belgian    
cities ( correspond+ bulk1 su* z ,bruges
 or ,mal9es4 ,! road f ! railway-/ation 
to ! c5tre ( ! t[n is commonplace inde$ 
9 its lack ( picturesque ,flemi%        
h\se-fronts or /epp$1 corbie1 ,flemi%   
gables4 ,l\va91 9 fact1 unlike ! two    
dead cities ( ,we/ ,fl&]s & ,brabant1   
we>s a briskly bus9ess-l aspect1 &      
pulses ) mod]n life4 ,i suppose t ,i    
ought prop]ly to h writt5 all ?is 9 !   
pa/ t5se1 = ,l\va9 is n[ a heap ( smok+ 
c9d]s4 ,! fam\s ,t[n ,hall has1 inde$1 s
 f> be5 sp>$ by ruffians :o w\ld bett] h
 sp>$ ! magnific5t ,clo? ,hall at       
,ypres2 betwe5 ^! two great build+s1 !  

products respectively ( ! ,belgian g5ius
 ( ! fifte5? & ?irte5? c5turies1 culture
 c\ld h>dly hesitate4 ,!                
,hotel-de-,ville at ,l\va9 is1 inde$1 an
 a/oni%+ /ructure1 j z ! ca!dral at     
,antw]p is a/oni%+2 b "o has to be v    
indulg5t1 or v =getful ( bett] models1 n
 to deprecate ?is absolutely wanton riot
 ( ov]lad5$ panell+ & bulg+1 top-heavy  
p9nacles4 ,! expir+ ?roes ( ,belgian    
,go?ic 7 a ?\s& degrees less *a/e ?an ! 
classicism ( ! e>ly ,r5aissance3 few1   
p]haps1 w pref] ! lacelike ov]-ri*ness (
 ?is midfifte5? c5tury t[n hall at      
,l\va9 to ! re/ra9t ( ! *>m+            
sixte5?-c5tury facade ( ! ,hotel de     
,ville at ,leid54 ,opposite ! t[n hall  
is ! huge fifte5?-c5tury *ur* ( ,/4     
,pi]re1 ! int]ior ( :i*1 /ill smo!r$ 9  
:itewa% 9 #aiaj1 0 rem>kable = its      
florid ,go?ic rood-scre5 & so>+         
,tab]nacle1 or ,ciborium4 ,! /umpy      
fragm5t ( t[] at ! we/ end is said once 
to h be5 five hundr$ & ?irty feet high6 
,x is n surpris+ to read t ?is la/1 &   

cr[n+1 manife/ation ( a famili> ,belgian
 weakness 0 l>gely wreck$ by a hurricane
 9 #afjd4     ,,iv4   ,"o has left      
oneself all too little space to say :at 
ought to be said ( ! ,belgian ,ard5nes4 
,p]sonally ,i f9d !m a trifle           
disappo9t+2 !y come1 no d\bt1 z a       
welcome relief aft] ! re/ ( ,belgian    
l&scape1 :i* ,i h he>d describ$1 n      
altoge!r unju/ly1 z ! uglie/ 9 ! _w2 b !
 true glory & value ( ,belgium w always 
be discov]$ 9 its m>vell\sly picturesque
 old t[ns1 & 9 its unrivall$ weal? (    
pa9t+1 brass-"w1 & wood-c>v+4 ,comp>$ ) 
^! la/ spl5d\rs ! l[1 wood$ wolds ( !   
,ard5nes1 ) _! n>r[ lime/one valleys1   
seem a little ?+ inde$4 ,d9ant1 no d\bt1
 & ,ro*e=t w\ld be pleasant places en\gh
 if "o 7 n always h>k+ back 9 memory to 
,mal9es & ,ypres1 or long+ to be once m 
9 ,gh5t or ,bruges4  ,! travell] by     
railway betwe5 ,brussels & ,liege       
passes1 soon aft] leav+ ! /ation ( ,ans1
 a po9t ( great significance 9 ! /udy ( 
,belgian l&scape4 ,hi!rto f ,brussels1  

or = t matt] f ,bruges & ,o/5d1 !       
c\ntry1 ?\gh /udd$ at frequ5t int]vals )
 cities & big t[ns1 has be5 curi\sly &  
int5sely rural 9 ! tracts t lie betwe52 
b n[1 z we desc5d ! /eep incl9e into !  
valley ( ! ,meuse1 we ent] on a sc5e (  
indu/rial activity :i*1 if nev] q z bad 
z our own ,black ,c\ntry at home1 is    
suffici5tly spoilt & irritat+ to all :o 
love ru/ic grace4 ,! r$eem+ po9t1 z     
always1 is t inf9itely sup]ior good ta/e
 :i* pres5ts u1 9 ! mid/ ( coal-m9es &  
desolation1 n ) our own unspeakably     
squalid ,%effields or ,ro!rhams1 b ) a  
que5ly city1 ) broad & h&some /reets1 ) 
a weal? ( public g>d5s1 & ) _m /ately   
remnants ( ! ,r5aissance & ,middle ,"t4 
,x is possible 9 ,liege to =get--or r   
impossible to recall--! soil$ & grimy   
c\ntry t /ret*es f its gates 9 !        
direction ( ,s]a+4 ,ev5 "u ! sway ( !   
,spani% tyranny ?is 0 an indep5d5t /ate 
"u ! rule ( a ,bi%op ,pr9ce1 :o 0 also  
an ,elector ( ! ,holy ,roman ,empire4   
,its orig9al ca!dral1 inde$1 has vani%$1

 l ^? at ,cambrai & ,bruges1 9 !        
ins5sate ?roes ( ! ,fr5* ,revolution2 & 
! exi/+ *ur* ( ,/4 ,paul1 ?\gh dat+ 9 "p
 f ! ?irte5? c5tury1 & a f9e en\gh      
build+ 9 its way1 is h>dly ! k9d (      
/ructure t "o w\ld wi% to associate ) ! 
seat ( a bi%opric t is /ill s hi/oric1 &
 0 =m]ly s important & ev5 quasi-regal4 
,"h1 h[ev]1 y %\ld notice1 j z 9 ! great
 neighb\r *ur* ( ,/4 ,jacques1 !        
rem>kable arabesque-patt]n pa9t+ ( !    
sev]ies ( ! vault1 & ! spl5d\r ( !      
sixte5?-c5tury glass4 ,/4 ,jacques1 ,i  
?9k1 on ! :ole is ! f9] *ur* ( ! two1 & 
rem>kable = ! florid ornam5t ( its      
sp&rels1 & = ! elaborate1 p5d5t cusp+ ( 
! s(fits ( its ar*es--features t l5d x  
an almo/ b>b>ic magnific5ce t rem9ds "o 
( ,rosslyn ,*apel4 ,liege1 built z x is 
exactly on ! edge ( ! ,ard5nes1 is f> ! 
mo/ f9ely situat$ ( any great city 9    
,belgium4 ,to appreciate ?is prop]ly y  
%\ld n fail to climb ! long flight (    
/eps--9 effect !y seem int]m9able1 b !y 
are really ab\t six hundr$--t m\nts     

endlessly f ne> ! ,cellul> ,prison to a 
po9t by ! side ( ! ,citadelle ,pi]reuse4
 ,look+ d[n h5ce on ! city1 especially  
"u c]ta9 atmosph]ic conditions--,i am   
?9k+ ( a %[]y day at ,ea/]--"o is rem9d$
 ( ! l9es by poor ,john ,davidson3      
,! adv5tur\s sun took ,heav5 by /orm2   
,cl\ds scatt]$ l>gesses ( ra92     ,!   
s\nd+ cities1 ri* & w>m1     ,sm\ld]$ & 
glitt]$ 9 ! pla94  ,x is n (t5 t "o is  
privileg$ to look d[n s directly1 & f s 
comm&+ a natural height1 on to s va/ &  
busy a city--^? :o l ?is k9d ( comp>ison
 h /yl$ x ! ,belgian ,birm+ham--ly+     
unroll$ s imm$iately1 l a map1 b5ea? our
 feet4  ,f ,liege1 if y l1 y may        
p5etrate ! ,ard5nes--,i d n "k :e!r     
,%akespe>e 0 ?9k+ 9 ,z ,y ,l ,x ( ?is   
woodl& or ( 8 own ,w>wick%ire =e/ (     
,ard52 p]haps he ?\ght ( bo?--imm$iately
 by way ( ,spa & ! valley ( ! ,vesdre1  
or by ! valleys ( ! ,our! & ( its       
tribut>y ! ,ambleve2 or y may /ill cl+ =
 a little :ile to ! fr+e ( ! ,ard5nes1  
:i* is also ! fr+e ( ! indu/rial c\ntry1

 & explore ! valley ( ! ,meuse we/w>d1  
pa/ ,huy & ,namur1 to ,d9ant4 ,huy has a
 noble collegiate *ur* ( ,notre ,dame1 !
 *ancel t[]s ( :i* 7f\nd aga9 z f> away 
z ,como7 are sugge/ive ( ,rh5i%         
influ5ce1 b /rikes "o z r du/y & untidy 
9 itself4 ,namur1 on ! contr>y1 we h    
already not$ ) praise1 ?\gh x has no?+ (
 real antiquity4 ,! valley ( ! ,meuse is
 grac$ ev]y:]e at int]vals ) fanta/ic   
piles ( lime/one cliff1 & c]ta9ly1 9 a  
prop] light1 is pretty2 b !re is f> too 
mu* qu>ry+ & indu/rialism betwe5 ,liege 
& ,namur1 & f> too _m resid5tial villas 
along ! banks betwe5 ,namur & ,d9ant1   
altoge!r to satisfy ^? :o h high ideals 
( sc5]y4 ,wordswor?1 9 a prefatory note 
to a sonnet t 0 writt5 9 #ahbj1 & at a  
date :5 ^! signs ( indu/rialism 7       
d\btless less obtrusive1 says3 ,! sc5]y 
on ! ,meuse pleases "o m1 ^u ! :ole1 ?an
 t ( ! ,rh9e1 ?\gh ! riv] itself is mu* 
inf]ior 9 gr&eur2 b ev5 he compla9s t ! 
sc5]y is 9 sev]al places disfigur$ by   
qu>ries1 :5ce /ones 7 tak5 = ! new      

=tifications4 ,d9ant1 9 p>ticul>1 has an
 exceptionally gr& cliff2 b ! summit is 
cr[n$ 7or 07 by an ugly citadel1 & !    
base is ?ickly clu/]$ r\nd ) h\ses 7n   
all1 by any means1 m$iaeval & beautiful7
 9 a way t calls to m9d ! ,high ,tor at 
,matlock ,ba?4 ,d9ant1 9 %ort1 is a k9d 
( ,belgian ,matlock1 & appeals z little 
z ,matlock to ! c>eful /ud5t ( ,nature4 
,if at ,d9ant1 h[ev]1 y des]t ! broad   
valley ( ! ,meuse = ! n>r[ & seclud$    
lime/one gl5 ( ! ,lesse1 ) its cle> &   
sp>kl+ /ream1 y w sample at once a k9d (
 sc5]y t rem9ds y ( :at is be/ 9        
,d]by%ire1 & is also be/ & mo/          
*>act]i/ic 9 ! ,belgian ,ard5nes4 ,!    
walk up ! /ream f ,d9ant to ,h\yet1 :]e 
! valley ( ! ,lesse becomes m op5 & less
 /rik+1 is mo/ly made by footpa?2 & !   
pellucid riv] is cross$1 & recross$1 &  
cross$ aga91 by a con/ant succession (  
f]ries4 ,sometimes ! :ite cliff rises   
directly f ! wat]1 %e] & maje/ic1 l t   
:i* is cr[n$ by ! romantic ,*ateau      
,walz92 sometimes x is m brok51 & rises 

amid/ trees f a broad pl9? ( em]ald     
mead[ t is int]pos$ betwe5 its base & ! 
w9d+s ( ! riv]4 ,sometimes we ?read !   
exact m>g9 ( ! /ream1 or trav]se 9 ! op5
 a scrap ( level pa/ure2 sometimes we   
clamb] /eeply by a /ony pa? along !     
sides ( an abrupt & d5sely wood$        
hillside1 :]e ! ?icket is yell[ 9 spr+ )
 ,anemone ,ranunculoides1 or />r$ ) gre5
 ,h]b ,p>is4 ,?is is ! k9d ( gl5 sc5]y t
 is f\nd along ! c\rses ( ! ,semois1    
,lesse1 & ,our!1 recall+1 ) obvi\s      
diff]5ces1 t ( ,monsal ,dale or         
,dov$ale1 b always1 p]haps1 )\t t subtle
 note ( wildness t robes ev5 ! mild     
spl5d\rs ( ,d]by%ire ) a sugge/ion (    
m\nta9 dignity4 ,! ,ard5nes1 9 %ort--&  
?is is _! sc5ic weakness--nev] atta9 to 
! prop] m\nta9 _s4 ,!re is a fur!r po9t1
 h[ev]1 9 :i* !y also recall ,d]by%ire1 
b 9 :i* !y are f> preem95t4 ,?is is !   
va/ agglom]ation ( caves & v]tical      
po?oles--l ^? 9 ,crav51 b "h call$      
etonnoirs--t riddle ! roll+ wolds 9 all 
directions4 ,*ief among ^! is ! mammo?  

cave ( ,han1 ! m]e p]ambulation ( :i* is
 said to occupy m ?an two h\rs4 ,i h    
nev] p5etrat$ myself into its sombre &  
dank recesses1 b some?+ may be realiz$ (
 its "* & scale m]ely by visit+ its gap+
 m\? at ,eprave4 ,?is is ! exit ( !     
,lesse1 :i*1 high] up ! vale1 at !      
curi\s ,p]te de ,lesse1 sw]ves sudd5ly f
 its obvi\s c\rse1 d[n ! bright & *e]ful
 valley1 to plunge noisily ?r\gh a n>r[ 
slit 9 ! rock--      ,:]e ,alph1 ! sacr$
 riv]1 ran     ,?r\gh cav]ns measureless
 to man     ,d[n to a sunless sea4      
,ro*e=t1 :i* itself has a consid]able   
cave1 is a pleasant c5tre = !           
exploration ( ^! subt]ranean m>vels4    
,altoge!r ?is lime/one region ( !       
,ard5nes1 ?\gh c]ta9ly n rem>kable =    
m\nta9 or =e/ spl5d\r1 comes z a some:at
 welcome relief aft] ! int]m9able levels
 & *essbo>d fields ( ,ea/ & ,we/ ,fl&]s1
 or ( ! prov9ces ( ,limburgh & ,antw]p4