,transcrib]'s ,note3 ,inconsi/5t hyph5ation & spell+ 9 ! orig9al docum5t h be5 pres]v$4 ,obvi\s typographical errors h be5 correct$4 ,italic text is d5ot$ by und]scores & bold text by equal signs4 ,! symbols 9 ! caption = ,fig #f4 h be5 approximat$ by *>act]s f ! available "* set4 ,,*9*a ,,pla9-,,weave ,,clo?s ,,by ,l4 ,m4 ,o',,neale1 ,e4 ,,bacon1 ,c4 ,w4 ,,gemm]1 ,r4 ,v4 ,,hall1 ,i4 ,w4 ,,johnson1 ,c4 ,m4 ,,osborne1 ,m4 ,b4 ,,ross ,,an?ropological ,,records ,vol4 #i1 ,no4 #b ,,an?ropological ,,records ,,editors3 ,e4 ,w4 ,,gif=d1 ,r4 ,f4 ,,heiz]1 ,r4 ,h4 ,,l[ie1 ,r4 ,l4 ,,olson ,volume #i1 ,no4 #b1 pp4 #acc-aef1 #a map1 #h figures 9 text1 plates #a-i ,submitt$ by editors ,m>* #h1 #aidh ,issu$ ,febru>y1 #aidi ,price1 #ej c5ts ,,univ]sity ,,( ,,cali=nia ,,press ,,b]keley ,,& ,,los ,,angeles ,,cali=nia ,,cambridge ,,univ]sity ,,press ,,london1 ,,engl& ,,manufactur$ ,,9 ,,! ,,unit$ ,,/ates ,,( ,,am]ica ,,=eword ,! /udy pres5t$ "h 0 "o ( a s]ies plann$ by ,pr(essor ,lila ,m4 ,o',neale1 ,associate ,curator ( ,textiles 9 ! ,museum ( ,an?ropology4 ,! fundam5tal idea 0 to make use ( ! weal? ( mat]ial 9 ! collections ( ! ,museum ( ,an?ropology1 p>ticul>ly its pre-,columbian ,p]uvian textiles1 z s\rce mat]ial = /udy & analysis by advanc$ /ud5ts4 ,pr(essor ,o',neale's sudd5 dea? on ,febru>y #b1 #aidh1 means t1 al?\gh ! pap] 0 complet$ & 9 ! h&s ( ! ,bo>d ( ,editors ( ,an?ropological ,records1 ! f9al pro(read+ has n be5 done by ,pr(essor ,o',neale4 ,! ,bo>d greatly regrets t ?is out/&+ contribution w n be foll[$ by o!rs produc$ "u ! direction & guidance ( a highly e/eem$ colleague4 ,,cont5ts ,introduction #acc ,! mat]ial #acc ,dim5sions ( ! ,*9*a clo?s #ace ,l5g?s #ace ,wid?s #acf ,y>ns #ach ,textures & weav+ te*niques #ach ,/it*]y #adj ,pat*+ & m5d+ #ada ,patt]n #ada ,color #adc ,summ>y #adc ,plates #ade ,illu/ration3 ,map #a ,*9*a ,environs ,,*9*a ,,pla9-,,weave ,,clo?s ,,by ,l4 ,m4 ,o',,neale1 ,e4 ,,bacon1 ,c4 ,w4 ,,gemm]1 ,r4 ,v4 ,,hall1 ,i4 ,w4 ,,johnson1 ,c4 ,m4 ,,osborne1 ,m4 ,b4 ,,ross ,,introduction ,?is /udy ( ! ,*9*a pla9-weave mat]ials 9 ! ,max ,uhle collection ( ! ,univ]sity ( ,cali=nia has be5 "p ( ! "w ( a ,s5ior c\rse 9 te*nical analysis4 ,six memb]s ( ! class1 ^: names appe> z jo9t au?ors1 are responsible = ! data collect$ & = ! initial organization4 ,! ,mat]ial ,! ,*9*a collection1 excavat$ 9 #aijj by ,dr4 ,max ,uhle dur+ ! ,p]uvian exp$ition f9anc$ by ,mrs4 ,phoebe ,app]son ,he>/1 is catalogu$ "u two lot prefixes3 #d- & #af-4 ,specim5 numb]s ) ! prefix #d- indicate t ! precise prov5i5ce z to site & grave is kn[n4 ,! clo?s 9 ?is lot h be5 previ\sly analyz$ & a prelim9>y report has be5 publi%$4#a ,! clo?s 9 ! #af- lot1 z is expla9$ 9 ! report on ! pott]y1#b did n id5tify p]fectly ) entries 9 ! collector's field catalogue or _! id5tification 0 dubi\s4 ,six ,*9*a sites describ$ 9 ,uhle's field catalogue#c are %[n on map #a4 ,! numb] ( clo? specim5s repres5t+ ea* ( ^! sites v>ies f #b to #eb 7table #a74 ,briefly1 ! "t p]iods indicat$ by f9ds =m+ ! basis ( ?is report are z foll[s4 ,site ,a 7#b specim5s74 ,on ! declivities ( ! valley t[>ds ! sea1 #e km4 f ,tambo de ,mora to ! nor?4 ,late ,*9*a p]iod4 ,site ,b 7#c specim5s74 ,la ,cumbe cemet]y2 ne>ly exhau/$2 ! few graves op5$ 7 ord9>y ones4 ,late ,*9*a p]iod4 ,site ,c 7#cg specim5s74 ,9 ! high] ,nor!rn "p ( ! valley4 ,late ,*9*a p]iod4 ,site ,d1 & ne> site ,d 7#eb specim5s74 ,*amb]like tombs1 :i* _h be5 dug out 9 a m\nd-l old] huaca4 ,late ,*9*a p]iod4 ,site ,e1 & ne> site ,e 7#bj specim5s74 ,! dry natural t]race 444 9 front ( ! ru9s ( ,la ,c5t9ela4 ,sev]al graves at ?is site held ,european articles4 ,late ,*9*a p]iod1 9 "p aft] ! ,spani% ,conque/4 ,site ,f 7#b specim5s74 ,! natural t]races ) slopes direct$ to ! sea nor? ( ,la ,cumbe 7circa ,las ,palmas74#d ,late ,*9*a p]iod4 ,table #a ,basic ,table3 ,sites1 ,p]iods1 & ,numb] ( ,specim5s 9 ,/udy ,no4 #d- ,no4 #af- ,total ,site ,p]iod specs4 specs4 specs4 ---------------------------------------- ------- ,a ,late ,*9*a #b 444 #b ,b ,late ,*9*a #b #a #c ,c ,late ,*9*a 444 #cg #cg & ,inca ,d ,late ,*9*a #g #da #dh ,ne> ,d #d 444 #d ,e ,late ,*9*a #aj #i #ai & ,inca ,ne> ,e #a 444 #a ,f ,late ,*9*a #b 444 #b ---------------------------------------- ------- ,totals #bh #hh #aaf ---------------------------------------- ----------- ,mo/ ( ! fabrics describ$ 9 ! lit]ature on anci5t ,p]uvian textiles are *>act]iz$ by beauty ( color+ or arre/+ designs or unusual workman%ip--sometimes by all ?ree4 ,^! all-cotton ,*9*a specim5s h none ( ! expectable features4 ,fir/ & la/ !y seem to h s]v$ utilit>ian purposes2 = t reason1 mo/ ( !m are comp>able to our s-call$ dome/ics4 ,! l>g] ones are probably mantles3 ! proportions ( ! l>ge/ two-bread? pieces ) full dim5sions 7#d-cigc;d1 #ei4e 94 by #ff 94 & #af-abej1 #eb 94 by #fa 947 place !m 9 ?is gr\p2 a ?ird specim5 7#af-abib71 also =m$ ( two bread?s 7intact bread? #ce 94 plus fragm5t>y bread? #bh 947 0 probably a mantle #fb in*es by #gj in*es ov] all4 ,! small] specim5s sugge/ sc>ves 7or incomplete mantles71 c>ry+ clo?s1 or k]*iefs 7figs4 #a1 #b74 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,diagrams ( elev5 specim5s ) l5g?-to-wid? proportions approximately #a3a1 z indicat$ by diagonal4 ,seams 9 two-bread? textiles %[n z brok5 l9es4 ,l>ge/ specim51 #ei4e in*es by #ff in*es4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,diagrams ( sev5 rectangul> specim5s ) l5g?-to-wid? proportions approximately #b3a z indicat$ by diagonal4 ,l>ge/ specim51 #fb in*es by #bb4e in*es4 ,! fact t _m ( ! ,*9*a clo?s 9 ! #af- lot _h app>5tly be5 r\ghly torn to rectangul> %apes leads u to believe t ! excavator us$ !m to wrap pott]y specim5s4 ,inde$1 ! majority seem to h be5 us$ ev5 by _! mak]s z wrapp+s4 ,a numb] ( !m h long loose /it*es or hang+ cordlike ?reads1 :i* orig9ally may h held sev]al lay]s toge!r4 ,_m ( ! s+le bread?s h traces ( seam+ /it*es on "o or bo? selvages1 indicat+ t ! orig9al wrapp+ 0 two or ?ree times its pres]v$ wid?4 ,a l>ge proportion ( ! clo?s 9 ?is gr\p are badly worn & clumsily pat*$4 ,two1 ?ree1 & sometimes m pieces ( irregul> %ape appli$ to ! base mat]ial & ev5 on top ( a fir/ pat* are n infrequ5t 7pl4 #c1;d74 ,! m5d$ fragm5ts d n appe> to be ei!r ! orig9al sizes or %apes4 ,_m ( !m h be5 r$uc$ to _! pres5t rectangul> %ape by te>+ (f tatt]$ 787 edges4 ,"o small gr\p ( /rip$ textiles 9 ! #af- lot is a notewor?y exception to ! majority4 ,f9ely /rip$ cottons simil> to ! "o 9 plate #e1;d mu/ c]ta9ly h be5 made = o!r ?an utility clo?s1 probably = g>m5ts4 ,!re are f\r small bags 7or pads87 9 ! ,*9*a #d- lot4 ,?ree ( ^! 7 =m$ ( small :ole clo?s sew$ toge!r at ! sides ) runn+1 d\ble runn+1 & :ipp+ /it*es respectively4 ,! f\r? is made ( a piece ( an edge-/ripe mat]ial & has "o loom/r+ end & "o side selvage4 ,on ?is bag ! torn edges h be5 turn$ 9 & seam$ ) a runn+ /it*4 ,ties = "o ( ! bags h be5 made by plait+ 9 a #d-/r& flat braid ! elem5ts consi/+ ( ! two loom/r+s plus an additional #ab-ply cord drawn ?r\gh ! corn] ( ! bag to its c5t] po9t1 ?us giv+ two ends4 ,ano!r ( ! bags has a draw /r+ =m$ by a #i-ply cord drawn ?r\gh ! top end ) a runn+ /it*4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,l4 ,m4 ,o',neale & ,a4 ,l4 ,kroeb]1 ,textile ,p]iods 9 ,anci5t ,p]u3,i1 ,,uc-,,paae1 #bh3bc-ef1 #aicj4 #b ,a4 ,l4 ,kroeb] & ,w4 ,d4 ,/rong1 ,! ,uhle ,collections f ,*9*a1 ,,uc-,,paae1 #ba3a-ed1 #aibd2 ,max ,uhle 7,a4 ,l4 ,kroeb]1 ed471 ,explorations at ,*9*a1 ,,uc-,,paae1 #ba3ee-id1 #aibd4 #c ,max ,uhle1 ,explorations at ,*9*a1 pl4 #a1 pp4 #hg-ij4 #d ,ibid41 pp4 #fh1 #fi4 ,,dim5sions ,,( ,,! ,,*9*a ,,clo?s ,"o hundr$ twelve clo?s 9 ! pla9-weave gr\p 7 measur$4 ,because "s ( ! specim5s c\ld n be plac$ "u t5sion1 ! =ef+] 0 drawn along ! clo? beside a /eel tape to smoo? out wr9kles4 ,measurem5ts tak5 by ?is me?od approximate ^? on a clo? /ret*$ betwe5 ! b>s ( a loom4 ,l5g?s ,complete dim5sions c be tak5 on eighte5 ,*9*a specim5s 9 lots #d- & #af-4 ,z figures #a & #b %[1 ^! dim5sions clu/] ar\nd two sets ( proportions3 ! elev5 clo?s repres5t$ 9 ! diagram 9 figure #a are squ>i%2 ! sev5 9 figure #b1 ) a l5g?-to-wid? proportion ( approximately two-to-?ree to "o1 are rectangul>4 ,f\r ( ! squ>i% clo?s are =m$ ( two sep>ately wov5 bread?s ( mat]ial4 ,all ! rectangul> clo?s are s+le bread?s4 ,measurem5ts ( ^! specim5s ) complete dim5sions are giv5 bel[ "u ! two classifications4 ,squ>i% clo?s ,measurem5ts 9 in*es ,specim5 #d-cfcc;b #ae4e by #ad #af-abfj #ai by #ad #d-chij;a #bc4e by #bf #d-chhc;a #bf4e by #bg #d-djef #bg by #bf #af-abec #bh4e by #bd #d-djbg #bi by #bh #d-djbb;a #dj by #ce 7#b bread?s7 #d-chhc;b #dc4e by #ch4e 7#b bread?s7 #af-abej #eb by #fa 7#b bread?s7 #d-cigc;d #ei4e by #ff 7#b bread?s7 ,rectangul> clo?s ,specim5 #d-chhi;c #i4e by #e #d-djbi #aj4e by #d #d-cifb #aa4e by #i #d-chhb;f #ac by #g #d-cgajm #ah by #aa4e #d-chhc;d #ec4e by #ba #d-djei;a #fb by #bb4e ,f ! tw5ty ,*9*a pla9-weave clo?s ) intact l5g?s 7fig4 #d7 x is possible to "k 7#a7 t ! clo?s 7 wov5 by me?ods /&>d among ! anci5t ,p]uvians2 7#b7 t ea* bread? repres5ts a sep>ate w>p+ op]ation :i* e/abli%$ its ultimate l5g?2 7#c7 t ea* bread? 0 made s+ly on ! loom4 ,! evid5ce = su* proc$ures & ! id5tify+ features ( ! end selvages on ,p]uvian clo?s are to be recogniz$ 9 ! cont9u\s ?read :i* =ms ! w>p ske9--9 contradi/9ction to cut ends ( w>ps--& 9 ! pres5ce ( two or m heavy wefts1 ! fir/ ones put across ! web4 ,! cords b9d+ ! end loops ( ! w>p ske9 to ! loom b>s hold ! fir/ ( ^! loom/r+ wefts1 z !y are call$1 to ! b>s4 ,! two or m succe$+ wefts1 :i* are int]lac$ ) ! w>ps1 e/abli% ! wid? ( ! piece & give x a c]ta9 firmness4 ,on ! ends ( "s clo?s ! /r& ( cord = loom/r+s 0 long en\gh to c>ry across ! web only twice4 ,9 ! majority ( our pla9-weave clo?s x 0 c>ri$ across ?ree times2 9 ov] a fif? ( ! total numb] ( intact ends 9 ! #af- lot ! loom/r+ c>ri$ across f\r times4 ,! frequ5cies ( two1 ?ree1 & f\r loom/r+s at ! ends ( webs 9 ?is gr\p are approximately z #f3cb3af4 ,a numb] ( ^! occurr5ces are on clo?s 9 :i* ! heavy cord is n long en\gh to make a complete cross+2 ! rema9d] ( ! bread? is complet$ ) weft ( ! size us$ = ! regul> weav+4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,complete wid?s ( textiles 9 ,*9*a pla9-weave gr\p4 ,sep>ately wov5 webs ( two-bread? clo?s indicat$ by *evrons4 ,n>r[e/ wid?1 #d in*es4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,complete l5g?s ( textiles 9 ,*9*a pla9-weave gr\p4 ,sep>ately wov5 webs ( two-bread? clo?s indicat$ by *evrons4 ,%orte/ l5g?1 #i4e in*es4 ,9 ! ,*9*a #d- lot1 loom/r+s ( f #b- to #ab-ply =m$ ! weft = f two to six c\rses ( weav+4 ,9 sev5 ( ! tw5ty-f\r specim5s %[+ f9i%$ ends1 ! loom/r+ /opp$ p>tway across its c\rse 9 ! web & 0 !re jo9$ to ! regul> weft y>n4 ,9 two ! jo9+ 0 effect$ by f+] knots1 9 ! o!r by splic+ 7874 ,! two specim5s 7#d-chhi;c & #d-djbi7 hav+ /rong #ab-ply loom/r+s 7 small b complete clo?s :i* _h be5 d\bl$ & /it*$ along ! sides to =m bags4 ,! loom/r+s ?us s]v$ to re9=ce ! op5 m\? ( ! bag4 ,9 elev5 specim5s ! loom/r+s _h an initial ,s & f9al ,z twi/2 twelve %[ ! opposite comb9ation4 ,9 "o specim5 7#d-djef7 ! sep>ate plies h an ,s twi/1 b ! f9al y>n is untwi/$4 ,complete l5g?s ( ,*9*a pla9-weave clo?s 9 ord] f %orte/ to longe/3 ,spec4 no4 ,in*es #d-chhi;c #i4e #d-djbi #aj4e #d-cifb #aa4e #d-chhb;f #ac #d-cfcc;b #ae4e #d-cgajm #ah #af-abfj #ai #d-chij;a #bc4e #d-chhb;a #bf4e #d-djef #bg #af-abec #bh4e #d-djbg #bi #d-djbb;a #dj 7 #b7 #d-chhc;b #dc4e 7 #b7 #af-abej #eb 7 #b7 #af-abij #ec #d-chhc;d #ec4e #d-cigc;d #ei4e 7 #b7 #d-djei;a #fb #af-abib #fb ,n9ety-odd ( ! measur$ clo?s are incomplete z to l5g?4 ,^! pres]v$ l5g?s fall )9 arbitr>y gr\p+s z foll[s3 ,f #e in*es to #bj in*es 9 l5g? #bi pieces ,f #ba in*es to #cj in*es 9 l5g? #cc pieces ,f #ca in*es to #dj in*es 9 l5g? #ag pieces ,f #da in*es to #ej in*es 9 l5g? #g pieces ,f #ea in*es to #fj in*es 9 l5g? #d pieces ,f #fa in*es to #gj in*es 9 l5g? #b pieces ,wid?s ,!re are ?ree times z _m weav+s ) complete wid?s z ) complete l5g?s2 #fj z comp>$ to #bj4 ,clues to ! wrapp+s or blankets ( :i* ^! bread?s 7 sections are frequ5tly furni%$ by traces ( /it*]y & brok5 ?reads on ! side selvages4 ,z %[n by table #b & figure #c1 ! five n>r[e/ complete bread?s 7,gr\p #a7 are )9 a range ( #d to #ab in*es4 ,n>r[ wid?s c be wov5 mo/ rapidly on ! back/rap loom4 ,complete bread?s 9 ,gr\p #b 7#ah specim5s7 fall )9 ! range ( #ad to #bj in*es4 ,^! wid?s1 also1 c be wov5 )\t mu* ef=t4 ,seam+ toge!r n>r[ bread?s appe>s to h be5 pref]r$ to weav+ wid] ones equal to ! two or ?ree :i* compose "s ( ! rectangul> specim5s4 ,table #b ,frequ5cies ( ,complete ,wid? ,measurem5ts ,wid? 9,numb] ( ,total in*es occurr5cesoccur- r5ces ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,gr\p #a #d-djbi #d #a #d-chhi;c #e #a #d-chhb;f #g #a #d-cifb #i #a #d-cgajm #aa4e #a #e ,gr\p #b #d-cfcc;b1 #af-abdj1 -#abef1 -#abfj1 -#abgd #ad #e #d-cigj1 -#djge;d1 #af-abgd1 -#abhj 7#b7 #ae4e #e #af-abdj1 -#abdh #af #b #d-djbb;a 7#b71 #af-abbe #ag4e #c #d-chhc;b 7#b7 #ai4e #b #d-djfh;b #bj4e #a #ah ,gr\p #c #d-chhc;d #ba #a #d-djei;a #bb4e #a #d-djfh;b1 #af-abia #bc #b #af-abcg1 -#abch1 -#abdb1 -#abea1 -#abec #be #e #d-chij;a1 -#djef #bf #b #d-chhc;a1 -#djfh;d1 #af-abea1 -#abfe #bg #d #d-djbc 7#b71 -#djbg1 #af-abeg1 -#abfe1 -#abga1 -#abgb1 -#abhi #bh #h #d-cfcc;a1 -#djee1 #af-abfa #bi #c #bf ,gr\p #d #af-abei #cj #a #af-abej1 -#abid #ca #b #d-cigc;d 7#b71 #af-abhc1 -#acjd;d #cc #d #af-abeb1 -#abfi;b #cd #b #af-abff1 -#abib #ce #b #af-abhf #da #a #ab ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,gr\p #c1 z li/$ 9 table #b1 comprises bread?s fall+ )9 a range ( #ba in*es ?r\gh #bi in*es4 ,^! wid?s r$uce weav+ spe$ & br+ ab\t problems 9 manipulation ( ! loom p>ts4 ,! twelve wide/ complete bread?s 9 ! ,*9*a lot range f #cj in*es to #ce in*es ) a s+le specim5 measur+ #da in*es4 ,= ?is la/ piece1 & possibly = sev]al ( ! n>r[] ones 9 ! same gr\p1 a two-b> loom n atta*$ to ! weav]'s wai/ seems indicat$4 ,complete wid?s ( ,*9*a pla9-weave fabrics 9 ord] f n>r[e/ to wide/3 ,spec4 no4 ,in*es #d-djbi #d #d-chhi;c #e #d-chhb;f #g #d-cifb #i #d-cgajm #aa4e #af-abgd #ac4e #ad4e #d-cfcc;b #ad #af-abef #ad #af-abfj #ad #af-abdj #ad4e #ae4e #d-cigj #ae #af-abhj #ae #ae #d-djge;d #ae4e #af-abdh #af #af-abbe #af4e #d-djbb;a #ag4e #ag4e #d-chhc;b #ai #ai4e #d-djfh;b #bj4e #bc #d-chhc;d #ba #d-djei;a #bb4e #af-abia #bc #af-abec #bd4e #af-abcg #be #d-chij;a #bf #d-djef #bf #d-chhc;a #bg #af-abea #bg #bd4e #d-djfh;d #bg4e #af-abfe #bg4e #d-djbg #bh #af-abeg #bh #af-abga #bh #af-abgb #bh #af-abhi #bh #d-djbc #bh #bh4e #af-abfa #bh4e #d-cfcc;a #bi #d-djee #bi #af-abei #cj #af-abej #cj #ca #af-abid #ca #af-abhc #cc #af-acjd;b #cc #d-cigc;d #cc #cc #af-abeb #cc4e #cc4e #af-abfi;b #cd #af-abff #cd4e #af-abib #ce #af-abhf #da ,sev5ty-odd individually wov5 bread?s ( mat]ial are incomplete z to wid?4 ,! arbitr>y gr\p+s 9 :i* ^! fall are z foll[s3 ,"u #aj in*es 9 wid? #c specim5s #aa in*es to #bj in*es #db specim5s #ba in*es to #cj in*es #bb specim5s #ca in*es to #dj in*es #g specim5s ,side selvages /r5g!n$ by any "o ( ! sev]al me?ods we "k f comm]cial weav+s are r>e 9 textiles f primitive looms4 ,x is n uncommon1 h[ev]1 to f9d f\r or five edge y>ns drawn m closely toge!r ?an are ! o!rs 9 ! web4 ,famili>ity ) ^! two facts made our discov]y ( a unique selvage f9i% a matt] ( unusual int]e/4 ,! edges ( specim5s #af-abbh & #af-abcf h be5 re9=c$ by two /it*]y te*niques4 ,plate #h1;i %[s ! ord9>y :ipp+ /it*es :i* =m ! f\ndation = ! second te*nique4 ,plate #h1;h %[s ?is second l9e ( "w to consi/ ( a d\ble /r& tw9$1 b always f back to front1 ) ! tops ( ! :ipp+ /it*es4 ,on "o ( ! ,*9*a #d- specim5s 7#d-djfh;a7 ! half-in* selvage is di/+ui%$ f ! body ( ! fabric by ! use ( w>p y>ns light] 9 color ?an ^? appe>+ 9 ! body ( ! fabric & by ! two-ov]-"o weave ( ! "r-h& selvage 9 contra/ to ! "o-ov]-"o weave f\nd else:]e 9 ! fabric4 ,9 specim5 #d-djbg ! edges are /r5g!n$ on ea* side = "s six in*es ( ! l5g? by a s+le heavy #d-ply w>p unit4 ,9 ! ,*9*a #d- specim5s1 :]e conge/ion ( edge y>ns occurs1 its ext5t 9 f ! edge v>ies f #e ?reads 79 #c specim5s7 to #bd ?reads 7#a specim572 9 ! majority ( ^! specim5s1 ! conge/ion ranges f #f to #ab ?reads 7#h specim5s74 ,textures 9 plate #d1;a1 c are comp>able to ^? 9 :i* maximum conge/ion occurs4 ,,y>ns ,all y>ns are initially spun z s+le plies4 ,9 ! anci5t ,p]uvian textiles1 !re are evid5ces ( pref]5ces = s+le-ply y>ns or at lea/ ! use ( !m ev5 9 fabrics we %\ld consid] call$ = heavi] elem5ts4 ,! ,*9*a dome/ic clo?s are good examples4 ,we made y>n analyses on half ( ! total numb] ( clo?s 9 ! /udy4 ,all b t5 ( ! fifty-sev5 exam9$ 7 wov5 ) s+le-ply w>p & weft elem5ts & ( ^! t51 only "o co>se clo? _h #b-ply w>ps & wefts2 ! rema9+ n9e _h #b-ply w>ps cross$ by s+le-ply wefts4 ,! majority ( ^! fabrics classifi$ z f9e weav+s4 ,y>ns may be twi/$ 7spun7 9 two directions4 ,! spirals =m$ by twi/+ may ext5d upw>d to ! left 7! ,s-twi/7 or to ! "r 7! ,z-twi/74 ,! frequ5cies ( ! left & ! "r twi/ 9 y>ns are indicative ( motor habits1 if no?+ m4 ,! l>ge/ ,*9*a gr\p comprises tw5ty-n9e clo?s 9 :i* ! w>p & weft elem5ts h left spirals2 a mu* small] gr\p 7#e specim5s7 %[s y>ns ) "r spirals4 ,two o!r gr\ps 7#f & #c pieces1 respectively7 h w>ps ) left spirals cross$ by wefts ) "r spirals & vice v]sa4 ,! o!r clo?s 9 :i* y>ns ) diff]5t twi/s are comb9$ p]haps may repres5t ! use ( odds & ends ( y>ns4 ,! foll[+ comb9ations 7 f\nd3 #a4 ,s+le-ply ,s-twi/ & ,z-twi/ w>ps cross$ by s+le-ply ,s-twi/ wefts 7#b specim5s7 or cross$ by s+le-ply ,z-twi/ wefts 7#a specim574 #b4 ,s+le-ply ,s-twi/ w>ps cross$ by s+le-ply ,s-twi/ & ,z-twi/ wefts 7#a f9e-texture specim574 ,y>ns are *>act]iz$ z s(t- or slack-twi/1 m$ium-twi/1 h>d- or tight-twi/1 ) v>i\s int]m$iate degrees dep5d+ ^u ! angle tak5 by ! spiral 9 relation to a v]tical axis4 ,a #be-;degree angle1 = example1 *>act]izes a m$ium-twi/ y>n t5d+ t[>d h>d-twi/4 ,y>ns ) #cj-;degree to #de-;degree angles ( twi/ are h>d-twi/ y>ns4 ,m ?an half ( an unselect$ sample ( tw5ty y>ns fell )9 ! #be-;degree to #de-;degree range4 ,! rema9+ sev5 _h angles f #ej degrees to #ij degrees 9 "s sections ( _! l5g?s4 ,an idea ( ! v>iations 9 any "o weav+ elem5t may be ga9$ f plate #d1;c & ! enl>g$ section ( fabric 9 plate #g1;c4 ,,textures ,,& ,,weav+ ,,te*niques ,9 g5]al1 ! ,*9*a weav+s are smoo? & closely wov5 7pls4 #c1;b1 & #d1;b74 ,!re appe>s to h be5 little or no int]e/ 9 v>y+ ! textures by employ+ y>ns ( diff]5t weights1 al?\gh ! usual irregul>ities to be not$ 9 l5g?s ( h&-spun y>ns are also evid5t 9 ^!4 ,c\nts tak5 on ! w>ps & wefts p] in* give a fair indication ( ! textures1 b ^! are to a degree dep5d5t ^u ! sp9n+4 ,illu/ration3 ,figure #e4 ,scatt] diagram ( ?read c\nts p] in*4 ,figures indicate numb] ( specim5s4 ,symbols3 triangle1 apex d[n1 unit consi/s ( "o w>p & "o weft elem5t2 op5 squ>e1 unit consi/s ( "o w>p1 two weft elem5ts2 conc5tric circles1 unit consi/s ( two w>ps1 "o weft elem5t2 triangle1 apex up1 unit consi/s ( w>p & weft pairs4 ,sev]al v>iations ( ! elem5tal ov]-"o-"u-"o pla9 weave are exemplifi$ by ! ,*9*a clo?s4 ,includ$ are ! foll[+3 comb9ations ( pairs ( w>ps or wefts ) s+le y>ns ( ! opposite sy/em1 & pairs ( w>ps & wefts z 9 ! two-by-two basket weave4 ,! "o hundr$ & twelve specim5s repres5t$ 9 ! scatt] diagram 7fig4 #e7 fall into gr\ps1 accord+ to ! v>iations ( ! pla9 weave ^! are li/$ bel[ 9 ! ord] ( _! frequ5cy3 ,gr\p #a4 ,pair$ w>ps cross$ by pair$ wefts3 #h ,gr\p #b4 ,s+le w>ps cross$ by pair$ wefts3 #bj ,! ?read c\nts ( #ah 9 ?is gr\p are approximately #eh w>ps by #dj wefts p] in*4 ,gr\p #c4 ,s+le w>ps cross$ by s+le wefts3 #bb ,?read c\nts 9 ?is gr\p range f #ac w>ps by #ah wefts to #aef w>ps by #dj wefts p] in*4 ,pl4 #e1;d %[s a fabric ) c\nt ( #ajh w>ps by #db wefts p] in*4 ,gr\p #d4 ,pair$ w>ps cross$ by s+le wefts3 #fb ,?read c\nts range f #af w>p pairs by #ab wefts to #dd w>p pairs by #cb wefts p] in* ) "o specim5 hav+ ! high c\nt ( #hj w>p pairs by #bh wefts p] in*4 ,9 t]ms ( weav+ units1 :e!r s+le y>ns or pairs ( y>ns1 #ef ( ! #aab c\nts tak5 fall )9 a range ( #bf to #dd w>p units & #bd to #cf weft units4 ,figure #e %[s ?is conc5tration )9 ! frame4 ,weav+ te*niques1 o!r ?an ! basic /ructural types1 are few 9 numb]4 ,draw+ 9 color$ w>ps = /ripes is a prelim9>y to ! actual int]lac+ ( ! elem5ts4 ,! results ( ?is proc$ure c be/ be discuss$ "u ! head+ ,patt]n4 ,! jo9 is a te*nical feature t indicates /&>ds ( craftsman%ip4 ,x is cu/om>y 9 weav+ mat]ials ) end z well z side selvages to give m or less att5tion to ! clos+ ( ! space betwe5 ! weav+ prop] & ! head+ /rip4 ,:5 ! w>ps 9 ! =m ( a ske9 _h be5 spread out ev5ly & b\nd 9 place to ! end b>s1 ! anci5t weav]s on two-b> looms fir/ wove a %all[ head+ /rip to secure ! w>ps 9 _! positions & to e/abli% ! ultimate wid? ( ! fabric1 a practice foll[$ by "s mod]n weav]s today4 ,!n ! weav] rev]s$ ! loom end = end to beg9 :at became ! weav+ prop]1 & cont9u$ until ! l5g? 0 complete4 ,difficulties or indiff]5ce to appe>ance v (t5 result$ 9 a g5]al loos5ess ( texture :]e /&>d-size tools _h to be remov$ & ! int]lac+ done m or less by ! f+]s4 ,plate #b1;a1 b %[s head+ /rips ( diff]5t dep?s1 fairly wide jo9 areas 9 :i* ! wefts are m widely spac$1 & above ^!1 ! compact texture ( ! weav+ prop]4 ,?ree f9ely wov5 clo?s1 "o ( !m %[n 9 plate #e1;d1 exemplify w>p lock+1 end-to-end4 ,?is te*nique is kn[n f ! e>lie/ p]iods on ! coa/ 9 ! s-call$ pat*works f ,nazca ,valley graves4 ,x occurs also 9 ,middle- & ,late-p]iod textiles4#e ,! me?ods ( l5g!n+ ! w>ps by ! addition ( new ones v>y1 b "o feature is common to all ^? exam9$3 ! supplem5t>y transv]se y>ns are 9 effect scaffold or skeleton wefts4#f ,9 ! ,*9*a clo?s1 ! two w>ps int]lock z %[n 9 ! recon/ruction 9 plate #e1;a4 ,9 two ,*9*a pla9-weave clo?s1 z 9 ! ,nazca pat*works1 ! w>ps ( two colors meet on ! skeleton weft4 ,two specim5s 9 lot #d- 7#chij;a & #djef7 are poor 9 quality ( craftsman%ip4 ,c>eless weav+ result$ 9 ! break+ ( sev]al w>ps1 unev5 %$d+1 & puck]+ 9 ! c5t] ( ! web4 ,a ?ree-in* diff]5ce 9 ! l5g? betwe5 ! two side edges ( specim5 #d-djef 0 probably due to slant+ ( ! w>p+ /akes 7fig4 #f74 ,!re is also a diff]5ce betwe5 ! wid?s ( ! ends ( ea* clo?1 9 "o ( !m z mu* z ?ree in*es4 ,diff]5t weights ( y>n are us$1 _! twi/s rang+ f s(t-to-m$ium to crepe4 ,illu/ration3 #d-djef ,fig4 #f4 ,diagram ( a web %[+ an irregul> %ape :i* may h result$ f c>eless w>p+4 ,occurr5ces ( pla9-weave v>iations are indicat$ by symbols = units3 1 "o-by-"o2 1 "o-by-two2 1 two-by-"o2 & 1 two-by-two 7#bg 94 #bf 94 ov] all74 ,9 specim5 #d-chij;a ! w>ps 7 gr\p$ 9 pairs ?r\gh\t ! bread? ( ! clo?4 ,9 ! fir/ eight & "o-half in*es ( ! l5g?1 ! weft is s+le & = ! rema9+ fifte5 & "o-half in*es ! wefts are pair$4 ,?is results 9 pla9-weave v>iations ( two-by-"o1 or semibasket weave1 & two-by-two1 or basket weave4 ,9 sett+ up ! loom = specim5 #d-djef1 twelve in*es ( ! bread? 7 w>p$ ) units ( s+le #b-ply w>p y>ns 7fig4 #f1 "r7 & ! rema9+ f\rte5 in*es 7 set up = units ( tw9 w>ps 7fig4 #f1 left74 ,sev]al pla9-weave v>iations 7 f\nd4 ,! weav] introduc$ s+le & tw9 wefts at irregul> int]vals ?r\gh\t ! l5g? ( ! clo?4 ,!re=e1 9 ! portion :]e ! s+le w>p unit int]laces ) s+le wefts1 a simple "o-by-"o1 or pla9 weave results2 :]e ! s+le w>p unit int]laces ) tw9 wefts1 a "o-by-two1 or semibasket weave occurs4 ,9 ! portion ( ! bread? :]e w>ps are pair$1 int]lac+s ( two-by-"o1 or semibasket weave1 & two-by-two1 or basket weave1 occur4 ,ow+ to ! diff]5ce 9 l5g? betwe5 ! two side edges ( specim5 #d-djef1 ! weav] />t$ mak+ adju/m5ts be=e %e _h wov5 half ! l5g? ( h] clo?4 ,9 ord] to re/ore a work+ edge at "r angles to h] w>ps1 %e introduc$ incomplete or fill-9 wefts2 t is1 weft y>ns ent]$ on ! long side & c>ri$ a di/ance across ! web & !n turn$ back 9 ! next %$ 7pl4 #h1;a74 ,! l>ge/ numb] ( fill-9 wefts occurs r\ghly at a po9t ab\t a ?ird up f ! end4 ,"h1 sev5 wefts 7 introduc$1 "o aft] ! o!r1 all ent]+ f ! same side ( ! web 7pl4 #e1;e74 ,! di/ance across ! web t ^! v>i\s wefts 7 c>ri$ ranges f t5 to tw5ty in*es4 ,at ea* turn+ po9t ( ! weft !re is a kelim slit4 ,,footnotes3 #e ,l4 ,m4 ,o',neale & ,a4 ,l4 ,kroeb]1 ,textile ,p]iods 9 ,anci5t ,p]u3 ,i1 basic tables at end ( plates4 #f ,l4 ,m4 ,o',neale1 ,textiles ( ! ,e>ly ,nazca ,p]iod1 ,field ,mus4 ,nat4 ,hi/41 ,an?rop4 ,mem41 #b3ahj1 #aicg4 ,,/it*]y ,?ree v famili> ne$le te*niques occur on ! ,*9*a pla9-weave clo?s4 ,bread?s are seam$ toge!r ) :ipp+ /it*es or runn+ /it*es1 or are lac$ toge!r ) ! antique seam1 (t5 call$ ! baseball /it* 7pl4 #h1;d74 ,! effects v>y ) ! dep? & tightness ( ! seam+4 ,"s ( ! :ipp+ /it*es are left loose s ! two bread?s lie flat1 _! selvages b>ely t\*+2 o!r /it*es are drawn s tightly t ! selvages =m a ridge 7pl4 #e1;b74 ,! smalle/ /it*es are tak5 "u two or ?ree w>ps less ?an "o-eigh? in* deep & ab\t "o-eigh? in* ap>t4 ,deep] /it*es f\nd on ! co>se wrapp+s & "o bag 7#d-chhi7 range f a qu>t]-in* to ?ree-eigh?s ( an in* 9 dep? & ! same di/ances ap>t4 ,! baseball /it*1 if well done1 c br+ ! selvages ( two bread?s toge!r 9 a flat seam 7pl4 #e1;d74 ,! ,*9*a types range f v loosely drawn to tightly drawn ?reads4 ,runn+ & d\ble runn+ /it*es 7pl4 #h1;b1 c71 nev] v c>efully execut$ on ! pla9-weave specim5s1 fa/5 d[n all ! pat*es1 hems1 & occasionally ! edges ( lapp$ seams 9 :i* "o bread? is ext5d$ conspicu\sly ov] ano!r4 ,specim5 #af-abbi has su* a seam ) a six-in* ov]lap4 ,:5 runn+ /it*es are small1 !y range f "o-eigh? to "o-qu>t] in* 9 l5g? ) approximately ! same di/ance betwe5 !m4 ,_m m are f "o-qu>t] to "o-half in* long1 especially on ! num]\s pat*es 7pl4 #c1;d71 & ! di/ances betwe5 ! /it*es may be ev5 long]4 ,:5 runn+ /it*es are us$ = ! hems1 ! clo? edges1 includ+ selvages1 are turn$ "u twice1 j z is our cu/om>y proc$ure4 ,d\ble runn+ /it*es on a bag 7#d-chhi;c7 are ab\t a qu>t]-in* long4 ,because ( ! v>iety ( uses to :i* runn+ /it*es are put1 !y outnumb] ! o!r types two to "o 9 ! #af- lot1 be+ (t5 comb9$ ) ! :ipp+ & baseball te*niques4 ,ne$leknitt+1 a decorative /it* :i* occurs frequ5tly on ,cahua*i 7,e>ly ,nazca7 textiles#g is ! edge f9i% on f\r ( ! ,*9*a pla9-weave clo?s 7pl4 #e1;c74 ,f ! side1 ! /it* resembles a :ipp+ /it* except = its compactness & ! fact t ! l9es ( ?read are upright1 n slant+2 f ! edge1 ! /it* resembles a *a9 7pl4 #h1;f1 g74 ,! ,*9*a v>iety diff]s slightly f t on ! ,e>ly ,nazca textiles3 /it*es tak5 /raight ov] ! edge alt]nate ) ^? l9k$ toge!r ) ! *a9 effect4 ,pat*+ & ,m5d+ ,any =m ( repair te*nique 9 ,p]uvian textiles is r>e4 ,_m ( ! mat]ials %[ we> & occasionally co>se /it*es are put ?r\gh ! clo? to draw ! edges ( a te> toge!r2 o!rwise !re is little to sugge/ conc]n ) prolong+ ! life ( a g>m5t4 ,9 a s]ies ( ,*9*a dome/ic clo?s !re are elev5 pat*$ specim5s b n "o trace ( reweav+ z 9 d>n+ te*niques4 ,app>5tly ! unusual numb] ( m5d$ clo?s int]e/$ ! collectors 9 ! field =1 al?\gh a half doz5 fragm5ts appe> to h be5 r$uc$ to _! pres5t size1 ! pat*$ portions h be5 c>efully pres]v$4 ,fragm5t>y l5g?s ( ^! textiles rang$ f #ad to #bh in*es2 wid?s rang$ f #ac to #cj in*es4 ,c]ta9 g5]alizations are p]t95t to all ! m5d$ fragm5ts4 ,!re is no evid5ce ( ! use ( a cutt+ tool2 ! edges ( ! pat*+ pieces 7 torn or snagg$ along a ?read4 ,if ! selvages 7 some:at worn1 ! seam/ress did n remove !m b made a deep turn to fold ! worn "p to ! und]side4 ,mu* ( ! pat*+ mat]ial 0 p]ceptibly worn to beg9 )2 ?ree br[n specim5s 7 badly dis9tegrat$4 ,on specim5 #af-abei !re are f\r ov]lapp+ lay]s ( pat*+ mat]ial 9 "o spot4 ,g5]ally1 ! worn spot cov]$ by a pat* or sev]al pat*es is an area 9 :i* ! weav+ 0 poorly done4 ,! pat*$ fabrics are 9 ! m$ium- & co>se-texture gr\ps ) ! exception ( "o f9e clo? 7#af-abbd74 ,! repair mat]ials fall )9 all ?ree texture gr\ps4 ,a ?ird ( ! pat*es 7#aa out ( #ca7 7 ( /rip$ mat]ials1 mo/ ( :i* are ( bett] quality ?an ! base fabric4 ,pat*es too small to cov] ! entire worn area are piec$ out by ov]lapp+ !m ) a second piece ( mat]ial4 ,m ?an a ?ird ( ! pat*es 7 tak5 f ! edges ( ! bread?s1 z ! /ripes indicate4 ,te*niques us$ to fa/5 d[n ! edges are hemm+ & :ipp+4 ,! workman%ip is fairly co>se1 ! l5g?s ( ! individual /it*es approximately a qu>t]-in* long4 ,/&>ds 7 mu* bel[ ^? held by ! weav]1 b ?is diff]5ce is n surpris+4 ,?reads employ$ = ! pat*+ sugge/ t ! seam/ress us$ odds & ends ( weav+ y>ns4 ,two or m k9ds ord9>ily appe> on a s+le pat*1 "o ( !m usually a co>se :ite cotton ?read ( fairly loose twi/4 ,"s ?reads are us$ s+le 9 ! ne$le1 "s d\ble4 ,colors are br[ns1 blues1 orange1 yell[1 ! la/ happ5+ to be %ort l5g?s ( wool4 ,!re is no evid5ce t ! seam/ress attempt$ to mat* ! y>n to ei!r ! gr\nd or ! pat* mat]ials4 ,:]e we />t a new l5g? ( ?read ) a knot made at ! end1 ^! ,*9*a ?reads beg9 ) a half-hit* ar\nd ! fir/ /it* tak5 ?r\gh ! clo? 7#af-abch7 or ) a /it* ?r\gh ! clo? & a knot ti$ ) ! %ort & long sections ( ! ?read 7#af-abfa74 ,plate #c1;d %[s "o ( ! typical pat*$ clo?s4 ,f\r fabrics are repres5t$3 ! base mat]ial1 m$ium f9e2 & ! ?ree pat*+ fabrics1 ! l[] pat* v f9e & ! upp] "r & left pat*es co>se4 ,! mo/ complicat$ arrangem5t ( pat*es is f\nd on a specim5 7#af-abdj7 compos$ ( two bread?s seam$ toge!r4 ,! ov]all measurem5ts ( ! torn rectangul> fragm5t are #ag in*es w>pwise by #cj in*es weftwise4 ,)9 ?is area are n9e diff]5t pieces ( clo?1 sev5 ( !m cov]+ worn spots or poorly wov5 areas4 ,,footnote3 #g ,ibid41 pl4 #ec1 a-c1 p4 #baj4 ,,patt]n ,! only color$ decoration on ! ,*9*a dome/ic clo?s is 9 ! =m ( /ripes4 ,?is section pres5ts an analysis ( ! types f\nd on ?irty-odd specim5s4 ,/ripes 9 ?is sample gr\p ei!r bord] ! edge ( ! clo? or make an allov] patt]n4 ,) ! exception ( f\r clo?s1 ! /ripes are w>pwise ( ! mat]ials2 ^! f\r h /ripes bo? w>pwise & weftwise1 & ?us may be classifi$ z plaids4 ,edge /ripes occur 9 comb9ation ) an allov] /rip patt]n 9 specim5 #af-abhg & 9 comb9ation ) plaid 9 specim5 #d-cigc;d 7pl4 #f1;f74 ,!re are no clo?s crossb&$ only ) color$ wefts4 ,app>5tly !re 0 no pref]5ce z to ! texture mo/ appropriate = patt]n+ by /ripes2 bo? f9e & co>se clo?s are ?us decorat$4 ,= example1 specim5 #af-abbe is v f9e 7?read c\nt1 #ajb w>ps by #db wefts p] 947 & specim5 #af-abcd is m$ium co>se 7c\nt1 #cf w>ps by #bh wefts p] 9474 ,bo? clo?s are allov] /rip$4 ,edge /ripes occur on a relatively f9e clo?1 specim5 #af-abee;a 7c\nt1 #fb w>ps by #dj wefts p] 9471 & also on a co>se clo? 7c\nt1 #bh w>ps by #bd wefts p] 9474 ,five clo?s 9 ! ,*9*a lot are allov] /rip$4 ,"o 7#af-abeb7 has solid blue & br[n /ripes at irregul> int]vals4 ,! arrangem5t contra/s ) ! regul>ity ( ! o!r allov]-/rip$ mat]ials & ( ! symmetrical plaids4 ,o!r allov] /ripes 7fig4 #h1;a2 pl4 #g1;c7 h units a qu>t]-in* wide1 br[n on a neutral gr\nd4 ,!re is bo? color & texture int]e/ 9 ^! specim5s4 ,! br[n w>p units are 9 pairs1 ! neutral-color w>p units betwe5 ea* two br[n units are alt]nately all s+le w>ps & all pairs ( w>ps4 ,z a result1 e o!r neutral-color /ripe is appreciably ?9n] ?an its neighbor /ripes 7pl4 #g1;c74 ,! ?ird allov] /rip$ specim5 7#af-abbd7 is alt]nately blue & neutral color1 ea* /ripe unit approximately "o-sixte5? in* wide 7fig4 #h1;c74 ,specim5 #af-abbe has /rip+ 9 ! same colors & to x is seam$ a piece ) blue on a r$di%-orange gr\nd4 ,! blues appe> to h be5 ! same1 b ! clo?1 o!rwise 9 good condition1 is s badly fad$ t ! photograph does n reveal ! /ripes 9 ! blue-orange section 7pl4 #e1;d74 ,! f\r? allov]-/ripe patt]n is common to two specim5s1 "o ( !m %[n 9 figure #h1;b4 ,! colors blue & tan /& out f a neutral gr\nd4 ,! sequ5ce is blue-blue-tan1 blue-blue-tan1 & repeat4 ,! /ripes measure "o-sixte5? in* 9 wid? & are ab\t ! same di/ance ap>t4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,s*ematic repres5tations ( /rip+s ) color *anges indicat$ by symbols4 ,units consi/+ ( pairs ( w>ps repres5t$ by pairs ( triangles4 ,*evron m>ks c5t] ( bilat]al gr\p+s ( colors4 ,! f\r fragm5ts symmetrically plaid$ ) an id5tical arrangem5t ( w>p & weft /ripes 7#af-abgi2 #af-acjc7 probably came f ! same clo? despite ! diff]5t numb]s4 ,edge /ripes1 ! mo/ num]\s gr\p1 v>y 9 wid? f ?ree-sixte5?s in* to "o & ?ree-eigh?s in*4 ,!y are simple 9 con/ruction1 eight ( ! ?irte5 be+ symmetrical bo? 9 arrangem5t & c\nt ( color$ w>ps4 ,! semblance ( balance is m>k$1 also1 9 ^? /ripes :i* are n symmetrical4 ,! edge /ripes ) two exceptions 7#af-abfj1 a k]*ief1 & full bread? #af-abhg7 bord] only "o ( ! selvages on ! complete wid?s analyz$ = ?is section4 ,! opposite selvages h hang+ ?reads1 remnants ( ! /it*]y :i* orig9ally seam$ two bread?s toge!r4 ,! /ripes decorat$ ! outside edges ( ?is seam$ rectangle4 ,no specim5 9 ! ,*9*a pla9-weave gr\p has /ripes %[+ m ?an ?ree colors1 exclusive ( ! color ( ! gr\nd mat]ial4 ,! gr\nd color is usually neutral & may orig9ally h be5 :ite or br[n cotton4 ,! mo/ frequ5tly occurr+ color 9 ! /ripes is br[n1 foll[$ by blue4 ,r$ & rose occur only twice4 ,9 five specim5s we f\nd ! w>ps us$ 9 pairs4 ,9 specim5s #af-abbd 7fig4 #g1;a7 & #af-abhj 7fig4 #g1k7 ! color$ w>ps are pair$1 ! gr\nd is set up ) s+le w>ps2 9 #af-abdj 7fig4 #g1;j71 ! /ripe w>ps & c]ta9 sections ( ! gr\nd w>ps are pair$1 ! great] portion is set up ) s+le w>ps4 ,9 sev]al specim5s ! o!rwise uni=m setup ( s+le color$ w>ps is brok5 by a w>p unit compris+ a pair 7fig4 #g1;f71 & 9 two specim5s 7cf4 fig4 #g1;d7 ! s]ies ( s+le w>ps is brok5 by two pairs ( w>ps 9 "o ( ! /ripes4 ,^! units may h be5 delib]ately plann$ by ! weav]1 s9ce !y are ma9ta9$ = ! entire l5g? ( ! pres]v$ /ripe4 ,all ( ! ,*9*a /rip$ clo?s exam9$ = ?is /udy 7 wov5 ei!r 9 ! ov]-"o-"u-"o int]lac+ or its v>iation1 tw9 w>ps cross$ by s+le weft1 a te*nique sometimes designat$ z ! semibasket weave4 ,:at textural diff]5ces !re are betwe5 ! color$ /ripes & ! gr\nd mat]ial are ! results ( comb9+ ! s+le-w>p pla9 weave ) its tw9-w>p v>iation4 ,! foll[+ tabulation %[s ! occurr5ces ( ^! two te*niques among ! ?irte5 /rip$ pieces 9 figure #g3 ,no4 ( ,weave ( gr\nd mat]ial ,weave 9 /ripes specim5s ,s+le w>ps1 s+le wefts same z gr\nd #a ,s+le w>ps1 s+le wefts s+le & tw9 w>ps1 s+le wefts #b ,tw9 w>ps1 s+le wefts s+le w>ps1 s+le wefts #g ,tw9 w>ps1 s+le wefts same z gr\nd #a ,tw9 w>ps1 s+le wefts s+le & tw9 w>ps1 s+le wefts #b ,,color ,fifty-odd y>ns1 sampl+s f ! /rip$ & pla9 clo?s ( ! ,*9*a lots1 7 mat*$ aga9/ ! pr9t$ samples 9 ,ma]z & ,paul's ,diction>y ( ,color4#h ,we f\nd y>ns correspond+ to ?irty-two samples repres5t+ five ( ! eight color gr\ps4 ,we f\nd no dy$ y>ns 9 ^! clo?s = colors 9 ! yell[-to-gre51 ! blue-to-r$1 & ! purple-to-r$ gr\ps4 ,only f\r y>ns out ( ?ree hundr$ & fifty mat*$ 9 a previ\s /udy1#i correspond$ to colors 9 ! purple-to-r$ gr\p & ^! f\r mat*$ v d>k samples on plate #ef4 ,! available evid5ce indicates ei!r t ! anci5ts _h n develop$ dye/uffs to produce su* hues z our fu*sias1 mag5tas1 & heliotropes or t !y did n favor ^! colors4 ,ov] a doz5 y>ns mat*$ samples on plates #ad & #ae ( ! orange-to-yell[ gr\ps2 z _m m mat*$ ! br[ns on plate #cg4 ,"s ( ! y>ns 9 ?is s]ies are d>k] ?an any ( ! pr9t$ samples on plate #ci4 ,! ?ird l>ge/ s]ies1 approximately tw5ty1 mat* eight samples 9 ! blue-gre5-to-blue gr\p4 ,! fewe/ numb] repres5t ! gre5-to-blue-gre5 gr\p4 ,y>ns 9 f\r clo?s are simil> to popl> & bottle gre5s4 ,/ripes are 9 "o1 two1 or ?ree colors 7fig4 #h74 ,mo/ ( ! "o-color /ripes 7approximately #aj7 are blue 7#cg;,f#c1 #cg;,i#e71 "o is an orange-r$ 7#e,k#aj71 & "o clay color 7#ad;,f#h74 ,= ! two-color /ripes we 7 able to di/+ui% blue 7#cg;,f#c71 gold5 br[ns 7approximat+ #ae;,a#ab71 & orange r$s 7approximat+ #e,k#aj74 ,9 only "o ( ! six two-color examples1 h[ev]1 7 ! two colors suffici5tly cle> to mat* ! pr9t$ samples4 ,specim5 #af-abea comb9es br[n 7#ae;,a#ab7 & blue 7#ch;,c#c7 /ripes4 ,! ?ree-color /ripes 9 ! #af-lot 7 simil>ly difficult to mat* ) ! samples 9 ! ,diction>y4 ,y>ns f ! f\r specim5s mat*$ samples z foll[s3 #af-abfh3 yell[ 7#aj;,c#g7 & two br[ns 7#ad,l#aj1 #ae;,a#ab7 #af-abgg3 two yell[s 7#aa,k#h & "o o!r d>k] ?an any 9 ! gr\p7 & blue 7#cf;,f#f7 #af-abhc3 yell[ 7#i;,j#e71 blue 7#ce;,d#d71 & "o o!r color too dull to mat* any pr9t$ sample 9 ! blue gr\p #af-abhg3 yell[s & br[ns 7#g;,c#ab1 #aa,k#f1 & #ad;,f#f7 ,"o ?ree-color specim5 9 ! #d- lot 7pl4 #f1;f7 has a numb] ( well-pres]v$ portions4 ,! weav+ prop] is natural-color :ite cotton ) plaid+ 9 d>k br[n 7#ae;,c#ab7 & gray simil> to adobe 7#ad;,d#g74 ,! wide edge /ripe has ! same d>k br[n1 a light]1 m gold5 br[n 7#ad;,d#ab71 & c5tral p9ki% /ripes :i* approximate pr9t$ samples #c;,c#aj or #c;,c#aa4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,diagrams ( /rip+s 9 ,*9*a pla9-weave clo?s3 a1 two-color /ripe1 blue & natural color cotton2 b1 two-color /ripe1 blue & br[n on natural-color gr\nd2 c1 allov] /ripe ( blue on natural-color gr\nd4 ,,footnotes3 #h ,a4 ,ma]z & ,m4 ,r4 ,paul1 ,a ,diction>y ( ,color1 #aicj4 #i ,l4 ,m4 ,o',neale1 ,textiles ( ! ,e>ly ,nazca ,p]iod1 p4 #add4 ,,summ>y ,analyses ( ov] a hundr$ pla9-weave clo?s 9 ! ,max ,uhle collection f ,late-p]iod sites at ,*9*a =m ! mat]ial ( ?is report4 ,! utilit>ian "* ( mo/ ( ! clo?s is conspicu\s4 ,a few pla9-weave fabrics und\bt$ly belong to g>m5ts ( ! bett] type1 al?\gh ^! specim5s1 too1 are )\t decoration except = /rip+s4 ,measurem5ts & textures sugge/ t "s weav+s may h be5 mantles or o!r l>ge wrapp+s4 ,all ! intact ends h ! cu/om>y ,p]uvian selvages ) heavy loom/r+ wefts4 ,intact s+le bread?s range 9 wid?s betwe5 #d in*es & #da in*es4 ,! wid] bread?s sugge/ t ! loom ^u :i* ^! specim5s 7 wov5 0 n ! type ord9>ily atta*$ to ! weav]'s wai/4 ,smoo? textures & ! uni=mly good edges indicate t ! weav+ y>ns 7 ( ! high quality we h le>n$ to expect 9 ! anci5t clo?s4 ,?read c\nts %[ a wide range1 z %[n 9 figure #e4 ,te*nical features 9 ^! pla9 clo?s are ! /&>d ones 9 mo/ respects4 ,w>p lock+ ( ! end-to-end v>iety & a unique f9i% on a side selvage are ! mo/ notewor?y deviations f ! norm4 ,p]haps ! lea/ expect$ feature is ! pat*+ ( weak or worn spots 9 ! clo?s4 ,9 _! pres5t condition1 ! sev]al repair$ examples reveal h>d we> subsequ5t ev5 to ! pat*+4 ,ornam5tation 9 ! ,*9*a pla9-weave clo?s analyz$ = ?is /udy consi/s solely ( /ripes & plaids2 an occasional edge f9i% is z mu* a /r5g!n+ device z a decorative detail4 ,a few clo?s are allov] /rip$2 a great] numb] are bord]$ on "o edge ) a s]ies ( colors1 ma9ly yell[1 br[ns1 & blues4 ,! gr\p z a :ole repres5ts ! _m fabrics :i* mu/ h be5 wov5 solely = ord9>y we> or use1 be+ us$ lat] z grave wrapp+s4 ,,plates ,,explanation ,,( ,,plates 7,numb]s prec$$ by #d- & #af- are ,univ]sity ( ,cali=nia ,museum ( ,an?ropology specim5-catalogue numb]s47 ,plate #a ,*9*a doll 7#d-daaf7 dress$ 9 scrap ( pla9-weave mat]ial4 ,height ov]all1 #g in*es4 ,head1 a knob wrapp$ ) fib]2 black human hair fold$ ov] top & drawn 9 at neck ) fib] /r+4 ,body compos$ ( #b tortoras sep>at$ to =m legs2 all elem5ts wrapp$ ) fib] & ) "o extra toe appli$ to ea* foot4 ,arms ( wrapp$ tortora ) f+]s 7#c7 appli$ at ends4 ,g>m5t ( pla9 cotton mat]ial torn crosswise2 fold at "o side2 lapp$ seam held ) co>se /it*es at opposite side2 seam across %\ld]s2 no op5+s = arms4 ,tatt]s at bottom edge turn$ to outside & secur$ ) runn+ /it*es4 ,l5g? #e in*es2 bread? #g in*es4 ,plate #b ,loom/r+ ends ( ,*9*a fabrics1 a1 b1 detail ( ends ( two webs 7#af-acjd;b1 #af-abgj7 to %[ head+ /rip 7#a7 & weav+ prop] 7#b7 comp>able 9 texture2 7#c7 section betwe5 !m1 ! jo91 m loosely wov54 ,wid? ( sections %[n1 #c4e in*es4 ,plate #c a1 b1 c1 examples ( m$ium-co>se ,*9*a fabrics 7#af-abhb1 #af-abag1 #af-abeb71 fair to good qualities ( weav+2 d1 worn mat]ial re9=c$ by pat*es held d[n by runn+ /it*es 7#af-abbb74 ,d>k section ( b1 #a4be in*es wide2 a & c 9 proportion2 upp] pat* ( d1 #i in*es by #f in*es4 ,plate #d ,textures ( f9e fabrics4 a1 comp>able to mod]n *eeseclo? 7#d-djeh;b72 b1 canvaslike 7#af-abee;a72 c1 op5 pla9 weave %[+ high twi/ ( s+le-ply y>ns 7#d-chhc;b74 ,plate #e a1 recon/ruction ( end-to-end w>p lock+1 %[n 9 d1 by me?ods :i* make possible ! *ange f mono*rome to /ripes2 b1 close-texture1 semibasket weave ) ?ree heavy loom/r+ wefts at end selvage1 :ipp$ seam 7#af-abib72 c1 end selvage re9=c$ ) ne$leknitt+ 7#af-abag7 7cf4 pl4 #h1;f1 g72 d1 f9e cotton g>m5t mat]ial ) /ripes bel[ mono*rome section 7#af-abbe71 "r-h& /rip$ section fad$2 e1 section ( textile 7#b7 ) turn ( fill-9 /raight5+ wefts indicat$ by black ?reads 7#d-djef7 7cf4 pl4 #h1;a74 ,wid? ( b & c1 #c in*es4 ,plate #f a-e1 bord] /ripes on ,*9*a clo?s 7#af-abfh1 #af-abgg1 #af-abad1 #af-abea1 #af-abee;a71 colors1 br[n & blue2 f1 section ( plaid ) bord] /ripe 7#d-cigc;d74 ,selvages at left4 ,wid? ( n>r[e/ bord] /ripe1 "o-f\r? in*2 o!rs 9 proportion4 ,plate #g a1 recon/ruction ( bord] /ripes ( fabric 9 plate #f1;e2 b1 recon/ruction ( /ripe f\nd on sev]al specim5s2 c1 section ( fabric 7#b7 %[+ v>iations 9 pla9 weave & am\nt ( twi/ giv5 to weav+ elem5ts 7#af-abdj72 d1 section ( fabric 7#b7 %[+ two-&-two basket weave v>i$ 9 appe>ance by arrangem5t ( color$ y>ns 7#d-cifb74 ,plate #h ,recon/ructions1 a1 fill-9 weft to /raight5 work+ edge 7cf4 pl4 #e1;e72 b1 pla9 runn+ /it*2 c1 d\ble runn+ /it* %[n 9 two colors = cl>ity2 d1 seam 9 saddl]'s or baseball /it*1 also call$ antique seam2 e1 seam 9 :ipp+ /it*3 f1 g1 top & side view ( ne$leknitt+ type f\nd on ,*9*a edge 7pl4 #e1;c71 alt]nate /it*es pla9 :ipp+ /it*es2 h1 i1 two views ( re9=c$ selvage %[+ /r& ( tw9+ ?r\gh tops ( :ipp+ /it*es4 ,plate #i ,weav+ & sew+ equipm5t3 a-g1 undress$ ?orns1 #c4e to #f in*es long 7#d-cfec72 h-o1 bun* ( f9e wood5 ne$les 7n %[s eye7 #d4e in*es long1 black & pale color wood 7#d-cfea72 p1 copp] ne$le 7#d-djid72 q1 head$ & po9t$ /ick1 possibly a w>p-lift] 7#d-chfe;f72 r-w1 /icks1 "s ( cane includ+ po9t$ & head$ tools 7#d-chfe;a-e1 g1 h73 s1 u1 weav+ swords2 t1 loom b>2 x1 weav+ sword1 #ah in*es long4 ,illu/ration3 ,plate #a4 ,*9*a ,doll ,illu/ration3 ,plate #b4 ,loom/r+ ,ends ,illu/ration3 ,plate #c4 ,*9*a ,fabrics ,illu/ration3 ,plate #d4 ,textures ( ,f9e ,fabrics ,illu/ration3 ,plate #e4 ,weav+ ,te*niques ,illu/ration3 ,plate #f4 ,patt]n3 ,/ripes & ,plaids ,illu/ration3 ,plate #g4 ,patt]n3 ,/ripes & ,v>iations 9 ,pla9 ,weaves ,illu/ration3 ,plate #h4 ,recon/ructions ( ,/it*es ,illu/ration3 ,plate #i4 ,weav+ & ,sew+ ,equipm5t