,transcriber's ,note3 ,inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have been preserved4 ,obvious typographical errors have been corrected4 ,italic text is denoted by underscores and bold text by equal signs4 ,the symbols in the caption for ,fig #f4 have been approximated by characters from the available character set4 ,,chincha ,,plain-,,weave ,,cloths ,,by ,l4 ,m4 ,o',,neale1 ,e4 ,,bacon1 ,c4 ,w4 ,,gemmer1 ,r4 ,v4 ,,hall1 ,i4 ,w4 ,,johnson1 ,c4 ,m4 ,,osborne1 ,m4 ,b4 ,,ross ,,anthropological ,,records ,vol4 #i1 ,no4 #b ,,anthropological ,,records ,,editors3 ,e4 ,w4 ,,gifford1 ,r4 ,f4 ,,heizer1 ,r4 ,h4 ,,lowie1 ,r4 ,l4 ,,olson ,volume #i1 ,no4 #b1 pp4 #acc-aef1 #a map1 #h figures in text1 plates #a-i ,submitted by editors ,march #h1 #aidh ,issued ,february1 #aidi ,price1 #ej cents ,,university ,,of ,,california ,,press ,,berkeley ,,and ,,los ,,angeles ,,california ,,cambridge ,,university ,,press ,,london1 ,,england ,,manufactured ,,in ,,the ,,united ,,states ,,of ,,america ,,foreword ,the study presented here was one of a series planned by ,professor ,lila ,m4 ,o',neale1 ,associate ,curator of ,textiles in the ,museum of ,anthropology4 ,the fundamental idea was to make use of the wealth of material in the collections of the ,museum of ,anthropology1 particularly its pre-,columbian ,peruvian textiles1 as source material for study and analysis by advanced students4 ,professor ,o',neale's sudden death on ,february #b1 #aidh1 means that1 although the paper was completed and in the hands of the ,board of ,editors of ,anthropological ,records1 the final proofreading has not been done by ,professor ,o',neale4 ,the ,board greatly regrets that this outstanding contribution will not be followed by others produced under the direction and guidance of a highly esteemed colleague4 ,,contents ,introduction #acc ,the material #acc ,dimensions of the ,chincha cloths #ace ,lengths #ace ,widths #acf ,yarns #ach ,textures and weaving techniques #ach ,stitchery #adj ,patching and mending #ada ,pattern #ada ,color #adc ,summary #adc ,plates #ade ,illustration3 ,map #a ,chincha ,environs ,,chincha ,,plain-,,weave ,,cloths ,,by ,l4 ,m4 ,o',,neale1 ,e4 ,,bacon1 ,c4 ,w4 ,,gemmer1 ,r4 ,v4 ,,hall1 ,i4 ,w4 ,,johnson1 ,c4 ,m4 ,,osborne1 ,m4 ,b4 ,,ross ,,introduction ,this study of the ,chincha plain-weave materials in the ,max ,uhle collection of the ,university of ,california has been part of the work of a ,senior course in technical analysis4 ,six members of the class1 whose names appear as joint authors1 are responsible for the data collected and for the initial organization4 ,the ,material ,the ,chincha collection1 excavated in #aijj by ,dr4 ,max ,uhle during the ,peruvian expedition financed by ,mrs4 ,phoebe ,apperson ,hearst1 is catalogued under two lot prefixes3 #d- and #af-4 ,specimen numbers with the prefix #d- indicate that the precise provenience as to site and grave is known4 ,the cloths in this lot have been previously analyzed and a preliminary report has been published4#a ,the cloths in the #af- lot1 as is explained in the report on the pottery1#b did not identify perfectly with entries in the collector's field catalogue or their identification was dubious4 ,six ,chincha sites described in ,uhle's field catalogue#c are shown on map #a4 ,the number of cloth specimens representing each of these sites varies from #b to #eb 7table #a74 ,briefly1 the time periods indicated by finds forming the basis of this report are as follows4 ,site ,a 7#b specimens74 ,on the declivities of the valley towards the sea1 #e km4 from ,tambo de ,mora to the north4 ,late ,chincha period4 ,site ,b 7#c specimens74 ,la ,cumbe cemetery2 nearly exhausted2 the few graves opened were ordinary ones4 ,late ,chincha period4 ,site ,c 7#cg specimens74 ,in the higher ,northern part of the valley4 ,late ,chincha period4 ,site ,d1 and near site ,d 7#eb specimens74 ,chamberlike tombs1 which had been dug out in a mound-like older huaca4 ,late ,chincha period4 ,site ,e1 and near site ,e 7#bj specimens74 ,the dry natural terrace 444 in front of the ruins of ,la ,centinela4 ,several graves at this site held ,european articles4 ,late ,chincha period1 in part after the ,spanish ,conquest4 ,site ,f 7#b specimens74 ,the natural terraces with slopes directed to the sea north of ,la ,cumbe 7circa ,las ,palmas74#d ,late ,chincha period4 ,table #a ,basic ,table3 ,sites1 ,periods1 and ,number of ,specimens in ,study ,no4 #d- ,no4 #af- ,total ,site ,period specs4 specs4 specs4 ---------------------------------------- ------- ,a ,late ,chincha #b 444 #b ,b ,late ,chincha #b #a #c ,c ,late ,chincha 444 #cg #cg and ,inca ,d ,late ,chincha #g #da #dh ,near ,d #d 444 #d ,e ,late ,chincha #aj #i #ai and ,inca ,near ,e #a 444 #a ,f ,late ,chincha #b 444 #b ---------------------------------------- ------- ,totals #bh #hh #aaf ---------------------------------------- ----------- ,most of the fabrics described in the literature on ancient ,peruvian textiles are characterized by beauty of coloring or arresting designs or unusual workmanship--sometimes by all three4 ,these all-cotton ,chincha specimens have none of the expectable features4 ,first and last they seem to have served utilitarian purposes2 for that reason1 most of them are comparable to our so-called domestics4 ,the larger ones are probably mantles3 the proportions of the largest two-breadth pieces with full dimensions 7#d-cigc;d1 #ei4e in4 by #ff in4 and #af-abej1 #eb in4 by #fa in47 place them in this group2 a third specimen 7#af-abib71 also formed of two breadths 7intact breadth #ce in4 plus fragmentary breadth #bh in47 was probably a mantle #fb inches by #gj inches over all4 ,the smaller specimens suggest scarves 7or incomplete mantles71 carrying cloths1 or kerchiefs 7figs4 #a1 #b74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,diagrams of eleven specimens with length-to-width proportions approximately #a3a1 as indicated by diagonal4 ,seams in two-breadth textiles shown as broken lines4 ,largest specimen1 #ei4e inches by #ff inches4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,diagrams of seven rectangular specimens with length-to-width proportions approximately #b3a as indicated by diagonal4 ,largest specimen1 #fb inches by #bb4e inches4 ,the fact that many of the ,chincha cloths in the #af- lot had apparently been roughly torn to rectangular shapes leads us to believe that the excavator used them to wrap pottery specimens4 ,indeed1 the majority seem to have been used even by their makers as wrappings4 ,a number of them have long loose stitches or hanging cordlike threads1 which originally may have held several layers together4 ,many of the single breadths have traces of seaming stitches on one or both selvages1 indicating that the original wrapping was two or three times its preserved width4 ,a large proportion of the cloths in this group are badly worn and clumsily patched4 ,two1 three1 and sometimes more pieces of irregular shape applied to the base material and even on top of a first patch are not infrequent 7pl4 #c1;d74 ,the mended fragments do not appear to be either the original sizes or shapes4 ,many of them have been reduced to their present rectangular shape by tearing off tattered 787 edges4 ,one small group of striped textiles in the #af- lot is a noteworthy exception to the majority4 ,finely striped cottons similar to the one in plate #e1;d must certainly have been made for other than utility cloths1 probably for garments4 ,there are four small bags 7or pads87 in the ,chincha #d- lot4 ,three of these were formed of small whole cloths sewed together at the sides with running1 double running1 and whipping stitches respectively4 ,the fourth is made of a piece of an edge-stripe material and has one loomstring end and one side selvage4 ,on this bag the torn edges have been turned in and seamed with a running stitch4 ,ties for one of the bags have been made by plaiting in a #d-strand flat braid the elements consisting of the two loomstrings plus an additional #ab-ply cord drawn through the corner of the bag to its center point1 thus giving two ends4 ,another of the bags has a draw string formed by a #i-ply cord drawn through the top end with a running stitch4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,l4 ,m4 ,o',neale and ,a4 ,l4 ,kroeber1 ,textile ,periods in ,ancient ,peru3,i1 ,,uc-,,paae1 #bh3bc-ef1 #aicj4 #b ,a4 ,l4 ,kroeber and ,w4 ,d4 ,strong1 ,the ,uhle ,collections from ,chincha1 ,,uc-,,paae1 #ba3a-ed1 #aibd2 ,max ,uhle 7,a4 ,l4 ,kroeber1 ed471 ,explorations at ,chincha1 ,,uc-,,paae1 #ba3ee-id1 #aibd4 #c ,max ,uhle1 ,explorations at ,chincha1 pl4 #a1 pp4 #hg-ij4 #d ,ibid41 pp4 #fh1 #fi4 ,,dimensions ,,of ,,the ,,chincha ,,cloths ,one hundred twelve cloths in the plain-weave group were measured4 ,because some of the specimens could not be placed under tension1 the forefinger was drawn along the cloth beside a steel tape to smooth out wrinkles4 ,measurements taken by this method approximate those on a cloth stretched between the bars of a loom4 ,lengths ,complete dimensions can be taken on eighteen ,chincha specimens in lots #d- and #af-4 ,as figures #a and #b show1 these dimensions cluster around two sets of proportions3 the eleven cloths represented in the diagram in figure #a are squarish2 the seven in figure #b1 with a length-to-width proportion of approximately two-to-three to one1 are rectangular4 ,four of the squarish cloths are formed of two separately woven breadths of material4 ,all the rectangular cloths are single breadths4 ,measurements of these specimens with complete dimensions are given below under the two classifications4 ,squarish cloths ,measurements in inches ,specimen #d-cfcc;b #ae4e by #ad #af-abfj #ai by #ad #d-chij;a #bc4e by #bf #d-chhc;a #bf4e by #bg #d-djef #bg by #bf #af-abec #bh4e by #bd #d-djbg #bi by #bh #d-djbb;a #dj by #ce 7#b breadths7 #d-chhc;b #dc4e by #ch4e 7#b breadths7 #af-abej #eb by #fa 7#b breadths7 #d-cigc;d #ei4e by #ff 7#b breadths7 ,rectangular cloths ,specimen #d-chhi;c #i4e by #e #d-djbi #aj4e by #d #d-cifb #aa4e by #i #d-chhb;f #ac by #g #d-cgajm #ah by #aa4e #d-chhc;d #ec4e by #ba #d-djei;a #fb by #bb4e ,from the twenty ,chincha plain-weave cloths with intact lengths 7fig4 #d7 it is possible to know 7#a7 that the cloths were woven by methods standard among the ancient ,peruvians2 7#b7 that each breadth represents a separate warping operation which established its ultimate length2 7#c7 that each breadth was made singly on the loom4 ,the evidence for such procedures and the identifying features of the end selvages on ,peruvian cloths are to be recognized in the continuous thread which forms the warp skein--in contradistinction to cut ends of warps--and in the presence of two or more heavy wefts1 the first ones put across the web4 ,the cords binding the end loops of the warp skein to the loom bars hold the first of these loomstring wefts1 as they are called1 to the bars4 ,the two or more succeeding wefts1 which are interlaced with the warps1 establish the width of the piece and give it a certain firmness4 ,on the ends of some cloths the strand of cord for loomstrings was long enough to carry across the web only twice4 ,in the majority of our plain-weave cloths it was carried across three times2 in over a fifth of the total number of intact ends in the #af- lot the loomstring carried across four times4 ,the frequencies of two1 three1 and four loomstrings at the ends of webs in this group are approximately as #f3cb3af4 ,a number of these occurrences are on cloths in which the heavy cord is not long enough to make a complete crossing2 the remainder of the breadth is completed with weft of the size used for the regular weaving4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,complete widths of textiles in ,chincha plain-weave group4 ,separately woven webs of two-breadth cloths indicated by chevrons4 ,narrowest width1 #d inches4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,complete lengths of textiles in ,chincha plain-weave group4 ,separately woven webs of two-breadth cloths indicated by chevrons4 ,shortest length1 #i4e inches4 ,in the ,chincha #d- lot1 loomstrings of from #b- to #ab-ply formed the weft for from two to six courses of weaving4 ,in seven of the twenty-four specimens showing finished ends1 the loomstring stopped partway across its course in the web and was there joined to the regular weft yarn4 ,in two the joining was effected by finger knots1 in the other by splicing 7874 ,the two specimens 7#d-chhi;c and #d-djbi7 having strong #ab-ply loomstrings were small but complete cloths which had been doubled and stitched along the sides to form bags4 ,the loomstrings thus served to reinforce the open mouth of the bag4 ,in eleven specimens the loomstrings had an initial ,s and final ,z twist2 twelve show the opposite combination4 ,in one specimen 7#d-djef7 the separate plies have an ,s twist1 but the final yarn is untwisted4 ,complete lengths of ,chincha plain-weave cloths in order from shortest to longest3 ,spec4 no4 ,inches #d-chhi;c #i4e #d-djbi #aj4e #d-cifb #aa4e #d-chhb;f #ac #d-cfcc;b #ae4e #d-cgajm #ah #af-abfj #ai #d-chij;a #bc4e #d-chhb;a #bf4e #d-djef #bg #af-abec #bh4e #d-djbg #bi #d-djbb;a #dj 7 #b7 #d-chhc;b #dc4e 7 #b7 #af-abej #eb 7 #b7 #af-abij #ec #d-chhc;d #ec4e #d-cigc;d #ei4e 7 #b7 #d-djei;a #fb #af-abib #fb ,ninety-odd of the measured cloths are incomplete as to length4 ,these preserved lengths fall within arbitrary groupings as follows3 ,from #e inches to #bj inches in length #bi pieces ,from #ba inches to #cj inches in length #cc pieces ,from #ca inches to #dj inches in length #ag pieces ,from #da inches to #ej inches in length #g pieces ,from #ea inches to #fj inches in length #d pieces ,from #fa inches to #gj inches in length #b pieces ,widths ,there are three times as many weavings with complete widths as with complete lengths2 #fj as compared to #bj4 ,clues to the wrappings or blankets of which these breadths were sections are frequently furnished by traces of stitchery and broken threads on the side selvages4 ,as shown by table #b and figure #c1 the five narrowest complete breadths 7,group #a7 are within a range of #d to #ab inches4 ,narrow widths can be woven most rapidly on the backstrap loom4 ,complete breadths in ,group #b 7#ah specimens7 fall within the range of #ad to #bj inches4 ,these widths1 also1 can be woven without much effort4 ,seaming together narrow breadths appears to have been preferred to weaving wider ones equal to the two or three which compose some of the rectangular specimens4 ,table #b ,frequencies of ,complete ,width ,measurements ,width in,number of ,total inches occurrencesoccur- rences ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,group #a #d-djbi #d #a #d-chhi;c #e #a #d-chhb;f #g #a #d-cifb #i #a #d-cgajm #aa4e #a #e ,group #b #d-cfcc;b1 #af-abdj1 -#abef1 -#abfj1 -#abgd #ad #e #d-cigj1 -#djge;d1 #af-abgd1 -#abhj 7#b7 #ae4e #e #af-abdj1 -#abdh #af #b #d-djbb;a 7#b71 #af-abbe #ag4e #c #d-chhc;b 7#b7 #ai4e #b #d-djfh;b #bj4e #a #ah ,group #c #d-chhc;d #ba #a #d-djei;a #bb4e #a #d-djfh;b1 #af-abia #bc #b #af-abcg1 -#abch1 -#abdb1 -#abea1 -#abec #be #e #d-chij;a1 -#djef #bf #b #d-chhc;a1 -#djfh;d1 #af-abea1 -#abfe #bg #d #d-djbc 7#b71 -#djbg1 #af-abeg1 -#abfe1 -#abga1 -#abgb1 -#abhi #bh #h #d-cfcc;a1 -#djee1 #af-abfa #bi #c #bf ,group #d #af-abei #cj #a #af-abej1 -#abid #ca #b #d-cigc;d 7#b71 #af-abhc1 -#acjd;d #cc #d #af-abeb1 -#abfi;b #cd #b #af-abff1 -#abib #ce #b #af-abhf #da #a #ab ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,group #c1 as listed in table #b1 comprises breadths falling within a range of #ba inches through #bi inches4 ,these widths reduce weaving speed and bring about problems in manipulation of the loom parts4 ,the twelve widest complete breadths in the ,chincha lot range from #cj inches to #ce inches with a single specimen measuring #da inches4 ,for this last piece1 and possibly for several of the narrower ones in the same group1 a two-bar loom not attached to the weaver's waist seems indicated4 ,complete widths of ,chincha plain-weave fabrics in order from narrowest to widest3 ,spec4 no4 ,inches #d-djbi #d #d-chhi;c #e #d-chhb;f #g #d-cifb #i #d-cgajm #aa4e #af-abgd #ac4e #ad4e #d-cfcc;b #ad #af-abef #ad #af-abfj #ad #af-abdj #ad4e #ae4e #d-cigj #ae #af-abhj #ae #ae #d-djge;d #ae4e #af-abdh #af #af-abbe #af4e #d-djbb;a #ag4e #ag4e #d-chhc;b #ai #ai4e #d-djfh;b #bj4e #bc #d-chhc;d #ba #d-djei;a #bb4e #af-abia #bc #af-abec #bd4e #af-abcg #be #d-chij;a #bf #d-djef #bf #d-chhc;a #bg #af-abea #bg #bd4e #d-djfh;d #bg4e #af-abfe #bg4e #d-djbg #bh #af-abeg #bh #af-abga #bh #af-abgb #bh #af-abhi #bh #d-djbc #bh #bh4e #af-abfa #bh4e #d-cfcc;a #bi #d-djee #bi #af-abei #cj #af-abej #cj #ca #af-abid #ca #af-abhc #cc #af-acjd;b #cc #d-cigc;d #cc #cc #af-abeb #cc4e #cc4e #af-abfi;b #cd #af-abff #cd4e #af-abib #ce #af-abhf #da ,seventy-odd individually woven breadths of material are incomplete as to width4 ,the arbitrary groupings in which these fall are as follows3 ,under #aj inches in width #c specimens #aa inches to #bj inches #db specimens #ba inches to #cj inches #bb specimens #ca inches to #dj inches #g specimens ,side selvages strengthened by any one of the several methods we know from commercial weavings are rare in textiles from primitive looms4 ,it is not uncommon1 however1 to find four or five edge yarns drawn more closely together than are the others in the web4 ,familiarity with these two facts made our discovery of a unique selvage finish a matter of unusual interest4 ,the edges of specimens #af-abbh and #af-abcf have been reinforced by two stitchery techniques4 ,plate #h1;i shows the ordinary whipping stitches which form the foundation for the second technique4 ,plate #h1;h shows this second line of work to consist of a double strand twined1 but always from back to front1 with the tops of the whipping stitches4 ,on one of the ,chincha #d- specimens 7#d-djfh;a7 the half-inch selvage is distinguished from the body of the fabric by the use of warp yarns lighter in color than those appearing in the body of the fabric and by the two-over-one weave of the right-hand selvage in contrast to the one-over-one weave found elsewhere in the fabric4 ,in specimen #d-djbg the edges are strengthened on each side for some six inches of the length by a single heavy #d-ply warp unit4 ,in the ,chincha #d- specimens1 where congestion of edge yarns occurs1 its extent in from the edge varies from #e threads 7in #c specimens7 to #bd threads 7#a specimen72 in the majority of these specimens1 the congestion ranges from #f to #ab threads 7#h specimens74 ,textures in plate #d1;a1 c are comparable to those in which maximum congestion occurs4 ,,yarns ,all yarns are initially spun as single plies4 ,in the ancient ,peruvian textiles1 there are evidences of preferences for single-ply yarns or at least the use of them even in fabrics we should consider called for heavier elements4 ,the ,chincha domestic cloths are good examples4 ,we made yarn analyses on half of the total number of cloths in the study4 ,all but ten of the fifty-seven examined were woven with single-ply warp and weft elements and of these ten1 only one coarse cloth had #b-ply warps and wefts2 the remaining nine had #b-ply warps crossed by single-ply wefts4 ,the majority of these fabrics classified as fine weavings4 ,yarns may be twisted 7spun7 in two directions4 ,the spirals formed by twisting may extend upward to the left 7the ,s-twist7 or to the right 7the ,z-twist74 ,the frequencies of the left and the right twist in yarns are indicative of motor habits1 if nothing more4 ,the largest ,chincha group comprises twenty-nine cloths in which the warp and weft elements have left spirals2 a much smaller group 7#e specimens7 shows yarns with right spirals4 ,two other groups 7#f and #c pieces1 respectively7 have warps with left spirals crossed by wefts with right spirals and vice versa4 ,the other cloths in which yarns with different twists are combined perhaps may represent the use of odds and ends of yarns4 ,the following combinations were found3 #a4 ,single-ply ,s-twist and ,z-twist warps crossed by single-ply ,s-twist wefts 7#b specimens7 or crossed by single-ply ,z-twist wefts 7#a specimen74 #b4 ,single-ply ,s-twist warps crossed by single-ply ,s-twist and ,z-twist wefts 7#a fine-texture specimen74 ,yarns are characterized as soft- or slack-twist1 medium-twist1 hard- or tight-twist1 with various intermediate degrees depending upon the angle taken by the spiral in relation to a vertical axis4 ,a #be-;degree angle1 for example1 characterizes a medium-twist yarn tending toward hard-twist4 ,yarns with #cj-;degree to #de-;degree angles of twist are hard-twist yarns4 ,more than half of an unselected sample of twenty yarns fell within the #be-;degree to #de-;degree range4 ,the remaining seven had angles from #ej degrees to #ij degrees in some sections of their lengths4 ,an idea of the variations in any one weaving element may be gained from plate #d1;c and the enlarged section of fabric in plate #g1;c4 ,,textures ,,and ,,weaving ,,techniques ,in general1 the ,chincha weavings are smooth and closely woven 7pls4 #c1;b1 and #d1;b74 ,there appears to have been little or no interest in varying the textures by employing yarns of different weights1 although the usual irregularities to be noted in lengths of hand-spun yarns are also evident in these4 ,counts taken on the warps and wefts per inch give a fair indication of the textures1 but these are to a degree dependent upon the spinning4 ,illustration3 ,figure #e4 ,scatter diagram of thread counts per inch4 ,figures indicate number of specimens4 ,symbols3 triangle1 apex down1 unit consists of one warp and one weft element2 open square1 unit consists of one warp1 two weft elements2 concentric circles1 unit consists of two warps1 one weft element2 triangle1 apex up1 unit consists of warp and weft pairs4 ,several variations of the elemental over-one-under-one plain weave are exemplified by the ,chincha cloths4 ,included are the following3 combinations of pairs of warps or wefts with single yarns of the opposite system1 and pairs of warps and wefts as in the two-by-two basket weave4 ,the one hundred and twelve specimens represented in the scatter diagram 7fig4 #e7 fall into groups1 according to the variations of the plain weave these are listed below in the order of their frequency3 ,group #a4 ,paired warps crossed by paired wefts3 #h ,group #b4 ,single warps crossed by paired wefts3 #bj ,the thread counts of #ah in this group are approximately #eh warps by #dj wefts per inch4 ,group #c4 ,single warps crossed by single wefts3 #bb ,thread counts in this group range from #ac warps by #ah wefts to #aef warps by #dj wefts per inch4 ,pl4 #e1;d shows a fabric with count of #ajh warps by #db wefts per inch4 ,group #d4 ,paired warps crossed by single wefts3 #fb ,thread counts range from #af warp pairs by #ab wefts to #dd warp pairs by #cb wefts per inch with one specimen having the high count of #hj warp pairs by #bh wefts per inch4 ,in terms of weaving units1 whether single yarns or pairs of yarns1 #ef of the #aab counts taken fall within a range of #bf to #dd warp units and #bd to #cf weft units4 ,figure #e shows this concentration within the frame4 ,weaving techniques1 other than the basic structural types1 are few in number4 ,drawing in colored warps for stripes is a preliminary to the actual interlacing of the elements4 ,the results of this procedure can best be discussed under the heading ,pattern4 ,the join is a technical feature that indicates standards of craftsmanship4 ,it is customary in weaving materials with end as well as side selvages to give more or less attention to the closing of the space between the weaving proper and the heading strip4 ,when the warps in the form of a skein had been spread out evenly and bound in place to the end bars1 the ancient weavers on two-bar looms first wove a shallow heading strip to secure the warps in their positions and to establish the ultimate width of the fabric1 a practice followed by some modern weavers today4 ,then the weaver reversed the loom end for end to begin what became the weaving proper1 and continued until the length was complete4 ,difficulties or indifference to appearance very often resulted in a general looseness of texture where standard-size tools had to be removed and the interlacing done more or less by the fingers4 ,plate #b1;a1 b shows heading strips of different depths1 fairly wide join areas in which the wefts are more widely spaced1 and above these1 the compact texture of the weaving proper4 ,three finely woven cloths1 one of them shown in plate #e1;d1 exemplify warp locking1 end-to-end4 ,this technique is known from the earliest periods on the coast in the so-called patchworks from ,nazca ,valley graves4 ,it occurs also in ,middle- and ,late-period textiles4#e ,the methods of lengthening the warps by the addition of new ones vary1 but one feature is common to all those examined3 the supplementary transverse yarns are in effect scaffold or skeleton wefts4#f ,in the ,chincha cloths1 the two warps interlock as shown in the reconstruction in plate #e1;a4 ,in two ,chincha plain-weave cloths1 as in the ,nazca patchworks1 the warps of two colors meet on the skeleton weft4 ,two specimens in lot #d- 7#chij;a and #djef7 are poor in quality of craftsmanship4 ,careless weaving resulted in the breaking of several warps1 uneven shedding1 and puckering in the center of the web4 ,a three-inch difference in the length between the two side edges of specimen #d-djef was probably due to slanting of the warping stakes 7fig4 #f74 ,there is also a difference between the widths of the ends of each cloth1 in one of them as much as three inches4 ,different weights of yarn are used1 their twists ranging from soft-to-medium to crepe4 ,illustration3 #d-djef ,fig4 #f4 ,diagram of a web showing an irregular shape which may have resulted from careless warping4 ,occurrences of plain-weave variations are indicated by symbols for units3 1 one-by-one2 1 one-by-two2 1 two-by-one2 and 1 two-by-two 7#bg in4 #bf in4 over all74 ,in specimen #d-chij;a the warps were grouped in pairs throughout the breadth of the cloth4 ,in the first eight and one-half inches of the length1 the weft is single and for the remaining fifteen and one-half inches the wefts are paired4 ,this results in plain-weave variations of two-by-one1 or semibasket weave1 and two-by-two1 or basket weave4 ,in setting up the loom for specimen #d-djef1 twelve inches of the breadth were warped with units of single #b-ply warp yarns 7fig4 #f1 right7 and the remaining fourteen inches were set up for units of twin warps 7fig4 #f1 left74 ,several plain-weave variations were found4 ,the weaver introduced single and twin wefts at irregular intervals throughout the length of the cloth4 ,therefore1 in the portion where the single warp unit interlaces with single wefts1 a simple one-by-one1 or plain weave results2 where the single warp unit interlaces with twin wefts1 a one-by-two1 or semibasket weave occurs4 ,in the portion of the breadth where warps are paired1 interlacings of two-by-one1 or semibasket weave1 and two-by-two1 or basket weave1 occur4 ,owing to the difference in length between the two side edges of specimen #d-djef1 the weaver started making adjustments before she had woven half the length of her cloth4 ,in order to restore a working edge at right angles to her warps1 she introduced incomplete or fill-in wefts2 that is1 weft yarns entered on the long side and carried a distance across the web and then turned back in the next shed 7pl4 #h1;a74 ,the largest number of fill-in wefts occurs roughly at a point about a third up from the end4 ,here1 seven wefts were introduced1 one after the other1 all entering from the same side of the web 7pl4 #e1;e74 ,the distance across the web that these various wefts were carried ranges from ten to twenty inches4 ,at each turning point of the weft there is a kelim slit4 ,,footnotes3 #e ,l4 ,m4 ,o',neale and ,a4 ,l4 ,kroeber1 ,textile ,periods in ,ancient ,peru3 ,i1 basic tables at end of plates4 #f ,l4 ,m4 ,o',neale1 ,textiles of the ,early ,nazca ,period1 ,field ,mus4 ,nat4 ,hist41 ,anthrop4 ,mem41 #b3ahj1 #aicg4 ,,stitchery ,three very familiar needle techniques occur on the ,chincha plain-weave cloths4 ,breadths are seamed together with whipping stitches or running stitches1 or are laced together with the antique seam1 often called the baseball stitch 7pl4 #h1;d74 ,the effects vary with the depth and tightness of the seaming4 ,some of the whipping stitches are left loose so the two breadths lie flat1 their selvages barely touching2 other stitches are drawn so tightly that the selvages form a ridge 7pl4 #e1;b74 ,the smallest stitches are taken under two or three warps less than one-eighth inch deep and about one-eighth inch apart4 ,deeper stitches found on the coarse wrappings and one bag 7#d-chhi7 range from a quarter-inch to three-eighths of an inch in depth and the same distances apart4 ,the baseball stitch1 if well done1 can bring the selvages of two breadths together in a flat seam 7pl4 #e1;d74 ,the ,chincha types range from very loosely drawn to tightly drawn threads4 ,running and double running stitches 7pl4 #h1;b1 c71 never very carefully executed on the plain-weave specimens1 fasten down all the patches1 hems1 and occasionally the edges of lapped seams in which one breadth is extended conspicuously over another4 ,specimen #af-abbi has such a seam with a six-inch overlap4 ,when running stitches are small1 they range from one-eighth to one-quarter inch in length with approximately the same distance between them4 ,many more are from one-quarter to one-half inch long1 especially on the numerous patches 7pl4 #c1;d71 and the distances between the stitches may be even longer4 ,when running stitches are used for the hems1 the cloth edges1 including selvages1 are turned under twice1 just as is our customary procedure4 ,double running stitches on a bag 7#d-chhi;c7 are about a quarter-inch long4 ,because of the variety of uses to which running stitches are put1 they outnumber the other types two to one in the #af- lot1 being often combined with the whipping and baseball techniques4 ,needleknitting1 a decorative stitch which occurs frequently on ,cahuachi 7,early ,nazca7 textiles#g is the edge finish on four of the ,chincha plain-weave cloths 7pl4 #e1;c74 ,from the side1 the stitch resembles a whipping stitch except for its compactness and the fact that the lines of thread are upright1 not slanting2 from the edge1 the stitch resembles a chain 7pl4 #h1;f1 g74 ,the ,chincha variety differs slightly from that on the ,early ,nazca textiles3 stitches taken straight over the edge alternate with those linked together with the chain effect4 ,patching and ,mending ,any form of repair technique in ,peruvian textiles is rare4 ,many of the materials show wear and occasionally coarse stitches are put through the cloth to draw the edges of a tear together2 otherwise there is little to suggest concern with prolonging the life of a garment4 ,in a series of ,chincha domestic cloths there are eleven patched specimens but not one trace of reweaving as in darning techniques4 ,apparently the unusual number of mended cloths interested the collectors in the field for1 although a half dozen fragments appear to have been reduced to their present size1 the patched portions have been carefully preserved4 ,fragmentary lengths of these textiles ranged from #ad to #bh inches2 widths ranged from #ac to #cj inches4 ,certain generalizations are pertinent to all the mended fragments4 ,there is no evidence of the use of a cutting tool2 the edges of the patching pieces were torn or snagged along a thread4 ,if the selvages were somewhat worn1 the seamstress did not remove them but made a deep turn to fold the worn part to the underside4 ,much of the patching material was perceptibly worn to begin with2 three brown specimens were badly disintegrated4 ,on specimen #af-abei there are four overlapping layers of patching material in one spot4 ,generally1 the worn spot covered by a patch or several patches is an area in which the weaving was poorly done4 ,the patched fabrics are in the medium- and coarse-texture groups with the exception of one fine cloth 7#af-abbd74 ,the repair materials fall within all three texture groups4 ,a third of the patches 7#aa out of #ca7 were of striped materials1 most of which are of better quality than the base fabric4 ,patches too small to cover the entire worn area are pieced out by overlapping them with a second piece of material4 ,more than a third of the patches were taken from the edges of the breadths1 as the stripes indicate4 ,techniques used to fasten down the edges are hemming and whipping4 ,the workmanship is fairly coarse1 the lengths of the individual stitches approximately a quarter-inch long4 ,standards were much below those held by the weaver1 but this difference is not surprising4 ,threads employed for the patching suggest that the seamstress used odds and ends of weaving yarns4 ,two or more kinds ordinarily appear on a single patch1 one of them usually a coarse white cotton thread of fairly loose twist4 ,some threads are used single in the needle1 some double4 ,colors are browns1 blues1 orange1 yellow1 the last happening to be short lengths of wool4 ,there is no evidence that the seamstress attempted to match the yarn to either the ground or the patch materials4 ,where we start a new length of thread with a knot made at the end1 these ,chincha threads begin with a half-hitch around the first stitch taken through the cloth 7#af-abch7 or with a stitch through the cloth and a knot tied with the short and long sections of the thread 7#af-abfa74 ,plate #c1;d shows one of the typical patched cloths4 ,four fabrics are represented3 the base material1 medium fine2 and the three patching fabrics1 the lower patch very fine and the upper right and left patches coarse4 ,the most complicated arrangement of patches is found on a specimen 7#af-abdj7 composed of two breadths seamed together4 ,the overall measurements of the torn rectangular fragment are #ag inches warpwise by #cj inches weftwise4 ,within this area are nine different pieces of cloth1 seven of them covering worn spots or poorly woven areas4 ,,footnote3 #g ,ibid41 pl4 #ec1 a-c1 p4 #baj4 ,,pattern ,the only colored decoration on the ,chincha domestic cloths is in the form of stripes4 ,this section presents an analysis of the types found on thirty-odd specimens4 ,stripes in this sample group either border the edge of the cloth or make an allover pattern4 ,with the exception of four cloths1 the stripes are warpwise of the materials2 these four have stripes both warpwise and weftwise1 and thus may be classified as plaids4 ,edge stripes occur in combination with an allover strip pattern in specimen #af-abhg and in combination with plaid in specimen #d-cigc;d 7pl4 #f1;f74 ,there are no cloths crossbanded only with colored wefts4 ,apparently there was no preference as to the texture most appropriate for patterning by stripes2 both fine and coarse cloths are thus decorated4 ,for example1 specimen #af-abbe is very fine 7thread count1 #ajb warps by #db wefts per in47 and specimen #af-abcd is medium coarse 7count1 #cf warps by #bh wefts per in474 ,both cloths are allover striped4 ,edge stripes occur on a relatively fine cloth1 specimen #af-abee;a 7count1 #fb warps by #dj wefts per in471 and also on a coarse cloth 7count1 #bh warps by #bd wefts per in474 ,five cloths in the ,chincha lot are allover striped4 ,one 7#af-abeb7 has solid blue and brown stripes at irregular intervals4 ,the arrangement contrasts with the regularity of the other allover-striped materials and of the symmetrical plaids4 ,other allover stripes 7fig4 #h1;a2 pl4 #g1;c7 have units a quarter-inch wide1 brown on a neutral ground4 ,there is both color and texture interest in these specimens4 ,the brown warp units are in pairs1 the neutral-color warp units between each two brown units are alternately all single warps and all pairs of warps4 ,as a result1 every other neutral-color stripe is appreciably thinner than its neighbor stripes 7pl4 #g1;c74 ,the third allover striped specimen 7#af-abbd7 is alternately blue and neutral color1 each stripe unit approximately one-sixteenth inch wide 7fig4 #h1;c74 ,specimen #af-abbe has striping in the same colors and to it is seamed a piece with blue on a reddish-orange ground4 ,the blues appear to have been the same1 but the cloth1 otherwise in good condition1 is so badly faded that the photograph does not reveal the stripes in the blue-orange section 7pl4 #e1;d74 ,the fourth allover-stripe pattern is common to two specimens1 one of them shown in figure #h1;b4 ,the colors blue and tan stand out from a neutral ground4 ,the sequence is blue-blue-tan1 blue-blue-tan1 and repeat4 ,the stripes measure one-sixteenth inch in width and are about the same distance apart4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,schematic representations of stripings with color changes indicated by symbols4 ,units consisting of pairs of warps represented by pairs of triangles4 ,chevron marks center of bilateral groupings of colors4 ,the four fragments symmetrically plaided with an identical arrangement of warp and weft stripes 7#af-abgi2 #af-acjc7 probably came from the same cloth despite the different numbers4 ,edge stripes1 the most numerous group1 vary in width from three-sixteenths inch to one and three-eighths inch4 ,they are simple in construction1 eight of the thirteen being symmetrical both in arrangement and count of colored warps4 ,the semblance of balance is marked1 also1 in those stripes which are not symmetrical4 ,the edge stripes with two exceptions 7#af-abfj1 a kerchief1 and full breadth #af-abhg7 border only one of the selvages on the complete widths analyzed for this section4 ,the opposite selvages have hanging threads1 remnants of the stitchery which originally seamed two breadths together4 ,the stripes decorated the outside edges of this seamed rectangle4 ,no specimen in the ,chincha plain-weave group has stripes showing more than three colors1 exclusive of the color of the ground material4 ,the ground color is usually neutral and may originally have been white or brown cotton4 ,the most frequently occurring color in the stripes is brown1 followed by blue4 ,red and rose occur only twice4 ,in five specimens we found the warps used in pairs4 ,in specimens #af-abbd 7fig4 #g1;a7 and #af-abhj 7fig4 #g1k7 the colored warps are paired1 the ground is set up with single warps2 in #af-abdj 7fig4 #g1;j71 the stripe warps and certain sections of the ground warps are paired1 the greater portion is set up with single warps4 ,in several specimens the otherwise uniform setup of single colored warps is broken by a warp unit comprising a pair 7fig4 #g1;f71 and in two specimens 7cf4 fig4 #g1;d7 the series of single warps is broken by two pairs of warps in one of the stripes4 ,these units may have been deliberately planned by the weaver1 since they are maintained for the entire length of the preserved stripe4 ,all of the ,chincha striped cloths examined for this study were woven either in the over-one-under-one interlacing or its variation1 twin warps crossed by single weft1 a technique sometimes designated as the semibasket weave4 ,what textural differences there are between the colored stripes and the ground material are the results of combining the single-warp plain weave with its twin-warp variation4 ,the following tabulation shows the occurrences of these two techniques among the thirteen striped pieces in figure #g3 ,no4 of ,weave of ground material ,weave in stripes specimens ,single warps1 single wefts same as ground #a ,single warps1 single wefts single and twin warps1 single wefts #b ,twin warps1 single wefts single warps1 single wefts #g ,twin warps1 single wefts same as ground #a ,twin warps1 single wefts single and twin warps1 single wefts #b ,,color ,fifty-odd yarns1 samplings from the striped and plain cloths of the ,chincha lots1 were matched against the printed samples in ,maerz and ,paul's ,dictionary of ,color4#h ,we found yarns corresponding to thirty-two samples representing five of the eight color groups4 ,we found no dyed yarns in these cloths for colors in the yellow-to-green1 the blue-to-red1 and the purple-to-red groups4 ,only four yarns out of three hundred and fifty matched in a previous study1#i corresponded to colors in the purple-to-red group and these four matched very dark samples on plate #ef4 ,the available evidence indicates either that the ancients had not developed dyestuffs to produce such hues as our fuchsias1 magentas1 and heliotropes or that they did not favor these colors4 ,over a dozen yarns matched samples on plates #ad and #ae of the orange-to-yellow groups2 as many more matched the browns on plate #cg4 ,some of the yarns in this series are darker than any of the printed samples on plate #ci4 ,the third largest series1 approximately twenty1 match eight samples in the blue-green-to-blue group4 ,the fewest number represent the green-to-blue-green group4 ,yarns in four cloths are similar to poplar and bottle greens4 ,stripes are in one1 two1 or three colors 7fig4 #h74 ,most of the one-color stripes 7approximately #aj7 are blue 7#cg;,f#c1 #cg;,i#e71 one is an orange-red 7#e,k#aj71 and one clay color 7#ad;,f#h74 ,for the two-color stripes we were able to distinguish blue 7#cg;,f#c71 golden browns 7approximating #ae;,a#ab71 and orange reds 7approximating #e,k#aj74 ,in only one of the six two-color examples1 however1 were the two colors sufficiently clear to match the printed samples4 ,specimen #af-abea combines brown 7#ae;,a#ab7 and blue 7#ch;,c#c7 stripes4 ,the three-color stripes in the #af-lot were similarly difficult to match with the samples in the ,dictionary4 ,yarns from the four specimens matched samples as follows3 #af-abfh3 yellow 7#aj;,c#g7 and two browns 7#ad,l#aj1 #ae;,a#ab7 #af-abgg3 two yellows 7#aa,k#h and one other darker than any in the group7 and blue 7#cf;,f#f7 #af-abhc3 yellow 7#i;,j#e71 blue 7#ce;,d#d71 and one other color too dull to match any printed sample in the blue group #af-abhg3 yellows and browns 7#g;,c#ab1 #aa,k#f1 and #ad;,f#f7 ,one three-color specimen in the #d- lot 7pl4 #f1;f7 has a number of well-preserved portions4 ,the weaving proper is natural-color white cotton with plaiding in dark brown 7#ae;,c#ab7 and gray similar to adobe 7#ad;,d#g74 ,the wide edge stripe has the same dark brown1 a lighter1 more golden brown 7#ad;,d#ab71 and central pinkish stripes which approximate printed samples #c;,c#aj or #c;,c#aa4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,diagrams of stripings in ,chincha plain-weave cloths3 a1 two-color stripe1 blue and natural color cotton2 b1 two-color stripe1 blue and brown on natural-color ground2 c1 allover stripe of blue on natural-color ground4 ,,footnotes3 #h ,a4 ,maerz and ,m4 ,r4 ,paul1 ,a ,dictionary of ,color1 #aicj4 #i ,l4 ,m4 ,o',neale1 ,textiles of the ,early ,nazca ,period1 p4 #add4 ,,summary ,analyses of over a hundred plain-weave cloths in the ,max ,uhle collection from ,late-period sites at ,chincha form the material of this report4 ,the utilitarian character of most of the cloths is conspicuous4 ,a few plain-weave fabrics undoubtedly belong to garments of the better type1 although these specimens1 too1 are without decoration except for stripings4 ,measurements and textures suggest that some weavings may have been mantles or other large wrappings4 ,all the intact ends have the customary ,peruvian selvages with heavy loomstring wefts4 ,intact single breadths range in widths between #d inches and #da inches4 ,the wider breadths suggest that the loom upon which these specimens were woven was not the type ordinarily attached to the weaver's waist4 ,smooth textures and the uniformly good edges indicate that the weaving yarns were of the high quality we have learned to expect in the ancient cloths4 ,thread counts show a wide range1 as shown in figure #e4 ,technical features in these plain cloths are the standard ones in most respects4 ,warp locking of the end-to-end variety and a unique finish on a side selvage are the most noteworthy deviations from the norm4 ,perhaps the least expected feature is the patching of weak or worn spots in the cloths4 ,in their present condition1 the several repaired examples reveal hard wear subsequent even to the patching4 ,ornamentation in the ,chincha plain-weave cloths analyzed for this study consists solely of stripes and plaids2 an occasional edge finish is as much a strengthening device as a decorative detail4 ,a few cloths are allover striped2 a greater number are bordered on one edge with a series of colors1 mainly yellow1 browns1 and blues4 ,the group as a whole represents the many fabrics which must have been woven solely for ordinary wear or use1 being used later as grave wrappings4 ,,plates ,,explanation ,,of ,,plates 7,numbers preceded by #d- and #af- are ,university of ,california ,museum of ,anthropology specimen-catalogue numbers47 ,plate #a ,chincha doll 7#d-daaf7 dressed in scrap of plain-weave material4 ,height overall1 #g inches4 ,head1 a knob wrapped with fiber2 black human hair folded over top and drawn in at neck with fiber string4 ,body composed of #b tortoras separated to form legs2 all elements wrapped with fiber and with one extra toe applied to each foot4 ,arms of wrapped tortora with fingers 7#c7 applied at ends4 ,garment of plain cotton material torn crosswise2 fold at one side2 lapped seam held with coarse stitches at opposite side2 seam across shoulders2 no openings for arms4 ,tatters at bottom edge turned to outside and secured with running stitches4 ,length #e inches2 breadth #g inches4 ,plate #b ,loomstring ends of ,chincha fabrics1 a1 b1 detail of ends of two webs 7#af-acjd;b1 #af-abgj7 to show heading strip 7#a7 and weaving proper 7#b7 comparable in texture2 7#c7 section between them1 the join1 more loosely woven4 ,width of sections shown1 #c4e inches4 ,plate #c a1 b1 c1 examples of medium-coarse ,chincha fabrics 7#af-abhb1 #af-abag1 #af-abeb71 fair to good qualities of weaving2 d1 worn material reinforced by patches held down by running stitches 7#af-abbb74 ,dark section of b1 #a4be inches wide2 a and c in proportion2 upper patch of d1 #i inches by #f inches4 ,plate #d ,textures of fine fabrics4 a1 comparable to modern cheesecloth 7#d-djeh;b72 b1 canvaslike 7#af-abee;a72 c1 open plain weave showing high twist of single-ply yarns 7#d-chhc;b74 ,plate #e a1 reconstruction of end-to-end warp locking1 shown in d1 by methods which make possible the change from monochrome to stripes2 b1 close-texture1 semibasket weave with three heavy loomstring wefts at end selvage1 whipped seam 7#af-abib72 c1 end selvage reinforced with needleknitting 7#af-abag7 7cf4 pl4 #h1;f1 g72 d1 fine cotton garment material with stripes below monochrome section 7#af-abbe71 right-hand striped section faded2 e1 section of textile 7#b7 with turn of fill-in straightening wefts indicated by black threads 7#d-djef7 7cf4 pl4 #h1;a74 ,width of b and c1 #c inches4 ,plate #f a-e1 border stripes on ,chincha cloths 7#af-abfh1 #af-abgg1 #af-abad1 #af-abea1 #af-abee;a71 colors1 brown and blue2 f1 section of plaid with border stripe 7#d-cigc;d74 ,selvages at left4 ,width of narrowest border stripe1 one-fourth inch2 others in proportion4 ,plate #g a1 reconstruction of border stripes of fabric in plate #f1;e2 b1 reconstruction of stripe found on several specimens2 c1 section of fabric 7#b7 showing variations in plain weave and amount of twist given to weaving elements 7#af-abdj72 d1 section of fabric 7#b7 showing two-and-two basket weave varied in appearance by arrangement of colored yarns 7#d-cifb74 ,plate #h ,reconstructions1 a1 fill-in weft to straighten working edge 7cf4 pl4 #e1;e72 b1 plain running stitch2 c1 double running stitch shown in two colors for clarity2 d1 seam in saddler's or baseball stitch1 also called antique seam2 e1 seam in whipping stitch3 f1 g1 top and side view of needleknitting type found on ,chincha edge 7pl4 #e1;c71 alternate stitches plain whipping stitches2 h1 i1 two views of reinforced selvage showing strand of twining through tops of whipping stitches4 ,plate #i ,weaving and sewing equipment3 a-g1 undressed thorns1 #c4e to #f inches long 7#d-cfec72 h-o1 bunch of fine wooden needles 7n shows eye7 #d4e inches long1 black and pale color wood 7#d-cfea72 p1 copper needle 7#d-djid72 q1 headed and pointed stick1 possibly a warp-lifter 7#d-chfe;f72 r-w1 sticks1 some of cane including pointed and headed tools 7#d-chfe;a-e1 g1 h73 s1 u1 weaving swords2 t1 loom bar2 x1 weaving sword1 #ah inches long4 ,illustration3 ,plate #a4 ,chincha ,doll ,illustration3 ,plate #b4 ,loomstring ,ends ,illustration3 ,plate #c4 ,chincha ,fabrics ,illustration3 ,plate #d4 ,textures of ,fine ,fabrics ,illustration3 ,plate #e4 ,weaving ,techniques ,illustration3 ,plate #f4 ,pattern3 ,stripes and ,plaids ,illustration3 ,plate #g4 ,pattern3 ,stripes and ,variations in ,plain ,weaves ,illustration3 ,plate #h4 ,reconstructions of ,stitches ,illustration3 ,plate #i4 ,weaving and ,sewing ,equipment