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gathomeh#jj;adamiala      ,,toy-,,making
 ,,at ,,home  ,how to ,make a ,hundred  
,toys from ,odds and ,ends  by  ,,morley
 ,,adams        ,new ,york ,frederick   
,a4 ,stokes ,company ,publishers        
,printed in ,great ,britain4            
,,preface   ,this work has been compiled
 with the assistance of ,mr4 ,walter    
,higgins1 the well-known instructor in  
woodwork4  ,the volume fulfils a        
long-felt want in that it supplies      
fascinating amusement for evenings at   
home4 ,the making of toys is an         
engrossing pastime1 and the home-made   

toy is invariably more novel than the   
shop-bought article and of superior     
quality1 besides which there is always a
 satisfaction in ,i made it myself4     
,the purpose of the book is to give     
simple and easily understood            
instructions and plain diagrams and     
sketches for making toys from the odds  
and ends that are usually discarded as  
useless4 ,matches1 ,match ,boxes1       
,cotton ,reels1 ,cocoa ,tins1 ,cigar    
,boxes1 and even ,egg ,shells comprise  
the materials from which are evolved    
,shops1 ,working ,models1 ,dolls'       
,furniture1 ,boats1 ,steam ,engines1    
,windmills1 and scores of other toys    
dear to the hearts of boys and girls4   
,perhaps the chief charm of the         
occupation is that literally dozens of  
toys can be made at a cost of less than 
a penny4 ,every toy described in this   
book is practicable1 and can be easily  
made by anyone possessing the smallest  
amount of handicraft skill4 ,at the same
 time the instructions are such as will 

prove of the utmost value to instructors
 of handicraft classes4                 
,,morley ,,adams4     ,,toy-,,making    
,,at ,,home     ,,toys ,,from ,,odds    
,,and ,,ends   ,in every household there
 are countless things which are thrown  
away immediately they have served one   
purpose4 ,cotton-reels may be taken as  
an instance4 ,it does not occur to the  
majority of people that these little    
wooden articles1 strongly made and well 
finished1 may be put to some use1 even  
when the cotton has been wound from     
them4 ,yet from them quite useful       
furniture can be made and playthings    
innumerable4 ,and so it is with many    
other things--match boxes1 broken       
clothes pegs1 cocoa tins1 mustard tins1 
egg shells1 cigar boxes1 nut shells1    
corks1 incandescent-mantle cases1 old   
broom handles3 there is no end to the   
list4  ,in the following pages we have  
set out to explain1 largely to boys and 
girls1 just how these odds and ends may 
be used for the construction of toys1   

games1 and interesting models4 ,the list
 is not by any means complete3 such     
examples as are given are merely        
suggestive examples4 ,the boy or girl   
who has patiently and thoughtfully made 
some of them will be in a position to   
devise and construct many more on       
similar lines4   ,most boys and girls   
are familiar with those little paper    
windmills1 which turn round gaily in the
 gentlest breeze--the ones which the    
rag-and-bone man gives in exchange for  
an old bottle4 ,they make a capital toy 
for baby brothers and sisters1 and they 
are very easy to make4 ,all you need is 
a six-inch square of stiff              
paper--coloured for preference--and two 
pieces of cardboard1 each an inch       
square4 ,first1 you draw out your square
 as in ,fig4 #a1 and then cut down the  
diagonals nearly to the centre square4  
,now take hold of a corner1 and fold it 
over to the centre4 ,secure it there    
with a small dab of glue4 ,serve each of
 the other corners in turn in similar   

fashion4 ,now glue on your two cardboard
 squares--one at the centre of the back 
and the other in the front1 covering the
 folded corners 7,fig4 #b74 ,all you    
need now is a stout pin to push through 
the centre of the cards into the end of 
a stick4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4     
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4  ,now if you  
nail two strips of wood in the form of a
 cross1 and pin on four or five         
differently coloured wheels1 you will   
have a jolly little toy for which baby  
will thank you 7,fig4 #c74              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4  ,n4,b4--,we  
shall frequently mention the word glue  
in the course of this little volume3    
therefore we had better explain just    
what we mean4 ,unless we state          
definitely otherwise1 we refer to the   
prepared glue sold in tubes under       
various names--,seccotine1 ,le ,page's  
,liquid ,glue and so on4 ,these         
adhesives are admirable for all light   
work4 ,they act best when put on thinly1
 and allowed partially to dry before the

 parts are pressed together4   ,a very  
interesting little toy1 which you can   
make in a few minutes1 is the  ,colour  
,wheel4--,take a piece of white         
cardboard1 and from it cut a circle     
about #c inches across4 ,now from the   
middle of this cut another circle about 
#c_/d in4 across4 ,this can be done     
quite easily by putting a sharp-pointed 
knife blade into the compass in place of
 a pencil4  ,divide the circle into     
seven equal parts1 and paint or crayon  
the sections with the colours of the    
rainbow--red1 orange1 yellow1 green1    
blue1 indigo1 violet4  ,when this is    
dry1 make a large loop of string and put
 it through the round hole of the card2 
and hold the ends of the loop one in    
each hand4 ,now if you turn the string  
at one end as if you were turning a     
skipping rope1 and then suddenly pull it
 tight1 your card will revolve very     
rapidly1 and you will find that instead 
of a coloured card you have what appears
 to be a light grey one4 ,this is really

 a little piece of science1 for it shows
 that the white light about us is really
 made up of the different colours of the
 rainbow 7,fig4 #d74  ,illustration3    
,,fig4 #d4   ,a simple ,counting        
,top4--,take a piece of cardboard1 and  
on it draw two hexagons having #a-;inch 
sides4 ,to draw a hexagon1 first draw a 
circle with its radius equal to the     
length of the side of the hexagon4 ,then
 without altering the compass measure   
off the radius six times round the      
circumference1 and join the neighbouring
 points4 ,now cut out each of these and 
from each one cut out one triangular    
section 7,fig4 #e74 ,scratch lightly    
along the other lines with the back of  
the knife-point4 ,now bend these so as  
to form two five-sided pyramids4 ,close 
up the open space by binding the edges  
together with a strip of gummed paper   
7,fig4 #f74 ,when you have done this1   
place the two pyramids base to base1 and
 secure them by means of small strips of
 gummed paper fixed along the edges4    

,bind all the edges in similar fashion  
for the sake of uniformity4 ,all that is
 necessary now is to make a hole at the 
apex of each pyramid1 and push an       
ordinary safety match through 7,fig4    
#g74 ,now if you twirl the match in your
 fingers1 and release it suddenly1 the  
top will spin for quite a long time4 ,to
 use it as a counting top or dice top   
paint the numbers #a to #e on the five  
triangular surfaces of the upper        
pyramid4 ,then when the top ceases      
spinning1 the uppermost number is the   
one which counts4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4
 #e4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4         
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #g4   ,tents for  
,toy ,soldiers4--,boys who play with    
lead soldiers often find that1 in making
 up a game1 they require some tents for 
the camp4 ,these are quite easily made  
either from paper or from calico4 ,their
 size will depend1 of course1 upon the  
size of the soldiers2 and it will be    
quite easy to construct them to measure 
two or three times the measurements     

given here4 ,here is a picture of one   
7,fig4 #h74  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #h4  
,first cut out a cardboard circle for   
the base of the tents1 say #b in4       
radius4 ,now for the sloping canvas     
sides--the conical part1 that is--draw  
out another circle1 this time with a    
radius of #d in4 ,only a part of this   
will be used2 and to know just how much1
 roll the base circle round the         
circumference of the larger circle until
 it has completed one of its own        
revolutions 7see ,fig4 #i74 ,in cutting 
this out1 one or two tongues should be  
left jutting out from the circumference3
 these fold over the edge of the base   
circle and secure the sloping sides in  
position4 ,all we need now is a thin    
stick1 about #d in4 long1 to act as a   
centre pole4 ,this should be glued to   
the centre of the base1 and should have 
the sloping sides glued around it4 ,a   
little paper flag at the top will       
complete the little structure4          
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #i4   ,most boys1 

and not a few girls1 love to play at    
soldiers and there is no reason why each
 boy should not make himself a complete 
suit of armour1 so that the game may be 
more real4  ,the ,helmet4--,with care   
this is not at all difficult to make3   
what difficulty there is lies in the    
adjustment and the size4 ,first it is   
necessary to find out the distance round
 the head4 ,this can be done with a     
piece of string2 or1 better still1 with 
a linen inch-tape4 ,suppose the distance
 round is #ba in43 then the helmet can  
be made in seven sections1 each #c in4  
wide at the base4 ,when these are       
brought together1 they converge at the  
top to form a typical ,norman headpiece 
7,fig4 #aj74  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aj4
  ,using stiff paper1 cut the seven     
sections as in ,fig4 #aa4 ,these should 
be glued together1 so that the          
connecting flanges are inside4          
7,n4,b4--,in doing this1 it is very     
necessary to let the glue get nearly dry
 before pressing the pieces together3 if

 it is quite fresh1 the strain will pull
 the pieces apart47 ,then at the apex of
 the sections glue on a circular piece  
of cardboard1 about #a-a_/b in4 across4 
,for the ring at the base1 cut a strip1 
just about #bb in4 long1 and having     
ornamented it in any fashion you please1
 glue the two ends together so as to    
form a circlet which will just go round 
the sections4 ,fix this to the seven    
sections with dabs of glue4             
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aa4  ,all that is
 necessary now is a coating of aluminium
 paint to give just that real dull      
metallic appearance4 ,if this paint is  
not available1 you can cover with silver
 paper1 but this is not nearly as       
effective4   ,the ,breastplate4--,while 
there is really less to do1 and fewer   
sections to adjust1 this presents quite 
as much difficulty as the helmet4 ,it is
 best made in two sections4 ,the exact  
shape can only be decided by trial3     
roughly1 it is that shown in ,fig4 #ab4 
,the best method of procedure is to cut 

out two of these in newspaper1 and fix  
them together with doll-pins1 and then  
try them on in much the same way as a   
tailor fits a waist-coat--altering pins 
and cutting out shapes until the        
requisite fit is obtained4 ,when this is
 done the two final sections can be cut 
out in cardboard 7not omitting flanges71
 glued together and painted4 ,if you are
 good at painting1 you can ornament the 
two sides with a heraldic device in     
crimson or gold4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 
#ab4  ,to fix it1 when wearing1 strings 
are used4 ,small holes are bored at the 
four ends 7and eyelets fixed in1 if you 
can do so7 and knotted strings passed   
through4 ,tie the bottom pair across the
 back with a knot 7not a grannie74 ,now 
take one of the ends of this1 and tie it
 with a string from one of the shoulder 
pieces4 ,if the other shoulder piece be 
tied in similar fashion to the other    
back string1 then the breastplate will  
be held correctly in position4 ,the     
strings and all the back gear will be   

covered by the cloak and mantle1 similar
 to that which knights in olden days    
wore over their armour4  ,before you put
 the breastplate on you can tie a towel 
or apron to come just to the knees3 this
 will take the place of the surcoat 7and
 serve to hide your knickers74  ,for    
greaves or leg-armour you can cut out   
and paint cardboard shapes1 like those  
shown in ,fig4 #ac4 ,these1 when fixed  
with string1 look quite well4           
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ac4   ,while we  
are talking of soldiers1 we may as well 
give details of  ,a ,war ,game4--,most  
boys are familiar with the game known as
 ,tiddley-winks1 in which the object is 
to make small bone counters hop into a  
cup by pressing their edges with a large
 bone counter4  ,these materials can be 
used for a very interesting war game1   
consisting of the siege of a fort4 ,the 
fort is simply a front elevation1       
similar to that shown in ,fig4 #ad4     
,this is drawn out in pencil on a piece 
of stout cardboard 7or fretwood7 and    

coloured in with paints or crayons4 ,the
 windows are then cut out2 and the whole
 thing made to stand upright by the     
addition of two or three triangular     
supports 7,fig4 #ae74 ,these are hinged 
on to the back by means of strong tape  
or canvas1 so that the whole thing can  
pack up flat4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4    
#ad4  ,each player in turn places his   
small counters 7generally six7 anywhere 
in front of the fortress4 ,he is now the
 attacking party1 and his object is to  
shoot his counters through the different
 windows4 ,if he succeeds in sending a  
counter through a window1 then he kills 
that number of the enemy4 ,the winner   
may be either the person who secures the
 greatest number of kills in a certain  
number of attempts--twenty-four1 for    
instance--or the person who first       
succeeds in scoring say #ej kills4 ,any 
shot missing the fort entirely--i4e4    
going right over or missing at the      
sides--is a wasted shot1 and counts one 
off the player's score4  ,illustration3 

,,fig4 #ae4   ,we propose to describe   
how to construct a simple  ,toy         
,cannon--one quite easily made at a     
negligible cost and yet quite effective4
 ,the only extra cost will be that of a 
piece of strong elastic3 the remainder  
being made of such things as cigar-or   
chocolate-box wood4 ,fig4 #af shows the 
finished article2 and a careful study of
 this illustration will make clear much 
of the method of manufacture4           
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #af4  ,we commence
 with the stand4 ,this is quite simple1 
being composed of five pieces of        
cigar-box wood1 a rectangular base1 two 
sides cut as shown1 and two small       
end-pieces to give the sides stability4 
,the measurements you can decide for    
yourself3 we suggest a base #e in4 long 
and #b in4 wide1 and side about #b-a_/b 
or #c in4 high1 as being suitable to the
 thickness of cigar-box wood4  ,the     
cannon itself is not very difficult1 if 
made square instead of cylindrical4 ,the
 barrel is composed of four pieces of   

thin wood glued together as shown in    
,fig4 #ag4 ,the pieces are about #f in4 
long1 and are cut and fitted to such a  
width as will leave a square hole in    
which the rod can move easily4 ,on the  
under side of this barrel are fixed two 
pieces of wood--one about #a-a_/b in4   
long and #c_/d in4 wide at the end near 
the mouth3 to this the elastic will be  
fixed4 ,the other1 a piece about #a-a_/d
 in4 long and square in section1 is     
fixed about midway along the barrel1 and
 will act as an axle on which the cannon
 can swing4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ag4 
,the rod by which the shot is ejected   
should be square in section1 and about  
#e in4 long4 ,at the rear end of it     
should be fixed two side-pieces to act  
as stops to prevent the elastic forcing 
the rod too far into the barrel4 ,a nail
 driven through these two pieces will   
prevent the elastic slipping out each   
time the cannon is fired 7,fig4 #ah74   
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ah4  ,all that   
remains now is the fixing of the        

elastic4 ,it should be slipped through  
the slot at the end of the rod1 and the 
two ends fixed as shown in the first    
illustration4  ,if desired1 this cannon 
can be used in connection with the      
skittles as described on page #cj1 and  
in fact the pegs can be quite easily    
carved into the similitude of soldiers  
and used for the game4 ,it can also find
 a place in the cokernut shy described  
on page #ca4   ,have you ever tried     
,making ,pictures with ,matches8--,this 
is a very interesting occupation1 and   
one which will fully test your ingenuity
 and your patience4 ,instead of using   
lines drawn with a crayon to suggest a  
certain object1 you replace these lines 
with match sticks1 bent and straight1   
and so obtain nearly the same effect4   
,you can start with the plain outline of
 some simple object such as a sailing   
boat or a truck or a house1 and you can 
then proceed to more difficult shapes1  
learning how to suggest masses of shadow
 by placing match sticks closely        

together4  ,in actual practice1 you get 
a large sheet of brown paper1 and move  
the matches about until the right       
position is obtained3 then you fix the  
matches to the paper one by one by means
 of a dab of glue4 ,in time you will    
astonish everybody 7yourself included7  
by the ease with which you can build up 
really intricate pictures4 ,specimens   
accurately done and tastefully mounted  
make very acceptable little presents    
7,fig4 #ai74  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ai4
   ,deft fingers and a big fund of      
patience render it quite possible to    
construct  ,models from ,match ,sticks1 
with the aid of just one or two         
accessories such as paper and glue4     
,placed side by side1 and glued to each 
other1 and to a cardboard or paper      
foundation1 matches 7particularly the   
larger sort7 give quite an impression of
 solidity--which you will notice if you 
refer to the picture of the cupboard    
given in ,fig4 #bj4 ,in this a cardboard
 foundation is made according to ,fig4  

#ba1 and the matches cut to the correct 
lengths and glued into position4 ,in    
making the foundation1 draw out         
carefully as shown1 cut through the     
plain lines1 and scratch along the      
dotted lines4 ,then bend into shape1 and
 secure by means of strips of gummed    
tape or paper4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4   
#bj4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ba4  ,to   
suggest the panel in the door1 glue     
matches round the outside edges as      
shown1 and leave the cardboard showing  
in the centre4 ,if you want the door to 
open outwards1 you will have to bevel   
the edges of the two matches where the  
cupboard bends1 because1 by the nature  
of the model1 the hinge 7that is1 the   
cardboard itself7 is on the inside4  ,in
 similar fashion you can make countless 
little objects--all varieties of dolls' 
furniture and fittings1 money boxes1    
trinket cases1 c4 ,if the matches are   
stained with bright colours1 and        
tastefully arranged1 and the whole      
varnished1 some splendid effects can be 

obtained4   ,talking thus of matches    
leads us to the description of another  
model in connection with the same       
articles4 ,this is a  ,novel ,match     
,striker4--,any article which is useful 
makes a desirable present1 especially if
 it has about it a certain amount of    
novelty4 ,for instance1 a match holder  
makes a nice little gift1 and is        
generally appreciated4 ,if1 however1 it 
is of a type which the recipient has    
never seen1 it will be doubly welcome4  
,one rather novel match holder and      
striker can be made in the following    
way4 ,obtain a funny picture--for       
preference1 one that has a large figure 
in the foreground4 ,fig4 #bb shows the  
type of picture we mean4 ,glue this on  
to a piece of stout cardboard4 ,suppose 
the picture shows a man's head4 ,then   
let his beard act as the striker4 ,to   
secure this1 cut out a piece of fine    
sandpaper1 exactly the shape of the     
man's beard 7or whatever it may be71 and
 glue it into position on the picture4  

,then at the side glue on a little      
holder for the matches4 ,this can be    
made of cardboard specially1 or an      
ordinary match-box cover can have the   
bottom stopped1 and be glued on4 ,as far
 as possible this should be a part of   
the picture4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bb4
  ,all sorts of pictures can be done in 
this fashion3 dogs1 with strikers on the
 tail2 pigs1 with strikers on the back2 
elephants2 grotesque men1 c4  ,if you   
like you can glue the picture on to     
fretwood1 and cut out the figure or a   
part of it1 and arrange it1 so that it  
will stand upright on a wooden base4    
,this will tax your own ingenuity4      
,there is in every house one thing out  
of which the enterprising boy or girl   
can make any number of models and toys3 
that is the empty match box4 ,its shape 
and formation lend themselves to the    
construction of all sorts of            
things--houses1 trams1 dolls' furniture1
 c4 c4--the only other requisites being 
a sharp knife1 a ruler1 one or two      

pieces of cardboard 7or better still1   
thin pine veneer71 a number of large    
matches 7or better still1 match         
stales74#a      #a ,these match stales1 
which are very useful in toy-making1    
can be purchased from ,byrant  ,may1    
,fairfield ,works1 ,bow1     ,london1   
,e41 at #as4 per bundle of #aejj4 ,the  
pine veneer costs #as4     #f;d4 per    
dozen pieces1 each #c ft4 #f in4 long4  
,you can start with the simplest form of
  ,railway ,truck1 consisting merely of 
the inner part1 or tray of a match box1 
with two match-stick axles glued across 
the bottom1 and four cardboard wheels   
secured in position by means of doll    
pins 7,fig4 #bc72 and then you can      
proceed to the most elaborate vehicles1 
bridges1 buildings1 furniture1 machines1
 c4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bc4   ,to   
give an idea of the method1 we show how 
to put together a small overhead  ,tram 
,car4--,in the first place you want two 
pieces of veneer or cardboard1 measuring
 #aa-a_/d by #d-c_/d in4 and #aa-a_/d by

 #e in4--to act respectively as the     
lower and upper decks4 ,the actual      
method of construction can best be      
understood by a careful study of ,fig4  
#bd4 ,the lower deck rests on four      
cardboard wheels4 ,these are fixed by   
means of doll pins to two wooden axles  
7match stales7 glued right across the   
under side of the lower deck4 ,on this  
the structure is built up with match    
boxes4 ,three covers are placed         
lengthways along each side and glued    
into position4 ,then above these come   
five match trays1 which1 when standing  
up1 take up just the same space4 ,these 
are glued into position1 facing         
outwards1 and projecting about #a_/d in4
 beyond the under covers4               
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bd4  ,across the 
top of the two sides so formed is glued 
the second sheet of veneer or cardboard1
 #aa-a_/d by #e in41 to form the upper  
deck4 ,five covers placed end to end    
exactly make up a side for this1 and one
 at each end completes the              

superstructure4 ,two covers1 placed end 
to end1 make a suitable back and front  
for the lower deck1 while two pieces of 
veneer1 #c-c_/d by #d-a_/b in41         
effectively close up the inside of the  
car4  ,the trolley pole is provided by a
 wooden skewer1 glued to the lower deck1
 and passing through a hole in the      
centre of the upper4 ,that completes the
 tram for all practical purposes4 ,if   
you desire to make your model more      
elaborate1 you can construct a cardboard
 or wooden stairway at each end1        
connecting the upper and lower decks2   
and you can replace the sheets of veneer
 at each end of the inside by properly  
constructed doorways2 and so on4        
,another excellent toy1 constructed with
 match boxes--and one very much         
appreciated by little brothers and      
sisters--is the  ,model ,stores4--,once 
again this will be best understood by   
reference to the illustration 7,fig4    
#be74 ,the stores consist of a counter  
and a back fitment--the two mounted on a

 base board4 ,for the counter1 five     
complete match boxes should be glued    
side by side and then mounted on six    
empty covers4 ,the trays of the five    
complete boxes should then be given     
handles to make them into drawers4 ,for 
these handles nothing can beat a boot   
button4 ,the small metal loop is pushed 
through a hole in the end of the tray1  
and then secured in position by means of
 a tiny wooden wedge pushed through the 
loop on the inside4  ,illustration3     
,,fig4 #be4  ,the back fitment consists 
of a block of twenty covers1 five in a  
row1 and four rows deep4 ,these are     
glued into position4 ,the two lower rows
 are deprived of their trays to make    
storage partitions1 and the two upper   
are fitted with handles as above4       
,surmounting this block is an upper     
fitment consisting of five trays glued  
together so as to stand upright at the  
back of the block1 leaving a free shelf 
in front 7as in most grocers' shops74   
,finally there is a row of three trays  

placed endways on the top of the five   
just mentioned4  ,for playing at shops a
 little model like this is invaluable4  
,a ,red-,cross ,cart4--,for this a large
 empty match tray is required4 ,across  
the under side a short length of match  
stale is glued1 to act as an axle for   
the two wheels4 ,these can be cut from  
either veneer or cardboard4 ,a good plan
 is to cut out a circle in fairly stiff 
cardboard1 and glue a covering of veneer
 on each side2 this adds to the         
appearance of the wheel and makes it    
stiffer4 ,if veneer alone is used1 two  
circles must be cut out for each wheel1 
and glued together with the grain at    
right angles4 ,the wheels should be     
fixed in position with doll pins4  ,for 
the tilt a piece of veneer bent over and
 glued to the inner sides of the match  
box will do quite well4 ,the red cross  
may be painted on1 but will look        
considerably better if cut from some    
light red paper and stuck on4 ,all that 
remains is to supply the shafts4 ,for   

this two pieces of stale of the         
requisite length should be glued to the 
under side of the body of the cart4     
,fig4 #bf shows the completed model4    
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bf4   ,another   
military model1 slightly more difficult 
to adjust1 is  ,a ,maxim ,gun4--,for    
this two wheels1 each about #b-a_/b in4 
across1 must be constructed in the      
manner described above4  ,the body of   
the machine is easier to make than      
describe4 ,fig4 #bg shows the under     
side4 ,a small match box is taken and   
along one long edge of the top a piece  
of stale is glued1 projecting #a_/d in4 
at each end4 ,this stale is the axle4   
,two full-length stales are then glued  
so that they meet at the end furthest   
from the axle4 ,to render these         
projecting pieces more stable1 a        
triangular piece of veneer is glued     
across them at the place of meeting4    
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bg4  ,the two    
wheels are then fixed in position by    
means of doll pins4 ,for the front of   

the machine a screen is required1 and a 
piece of veneer or card is cut as shown 
in ,fig4 #bh1 and glued to the front    
edge of the match box4 ,through the hole
 in this screen will project the actual 
gun itself4 ,for this a piece of wooden 
skewer or slender dowel will do4 ,this  
can be attached to the top of the box by
 means of glue1 and can be wedged up    
into a horizontal position if found to  
slant too much4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4  
#bh4  ,a coat of dull grey paint will   
add greatly to the realistic appearance 
of this interesting little toy4   ,many 
other things can be made1 too1 for use  
when playing with toy soldiers4 ,one    
such model is  ,a ,step ,bridge1 as     
shown in ,fig4 #bi4 ,this is a very     
pretty little model1 and one quite      
delightful to make4 ,for it we require  
four #a-c_/d in4 or #b-a_/d in4 match   
boxes1 a piece of cardboard or veneer1  
and some match stales4  ,illustration3  
,,fig4 #bi4  ,the cardboard should be   
cut to the width of the match box that  

is1 either #a-c_/d in4 or #b-a_/d in41  
and to a length of #d-a_/b in4 ,at each 
end of this should be glued the side of 
a match box4 ,in this way the actual    
bridge itself is formed4 ,the step is   
provided at each end by a match box1    
lying down1 and glued to the standing   
box4  ,the remaining task is the cutting
 and fitting of the match stales to     
provide the railings--and this is the   
part requiring great care4 ,reference to
 the sketch will give a much better idea
 of the design than any amount of       
explanation4 ,the stales will be cut to 
the following lengths3 two at #d-a_/b   
in41 eight at #b-a_/b in41 and four at  
#b in4 ,you can finish off your model by
 pointing some of the stales2 but this  
is not at all necessary if you have used
 a sharp knife and made clean cuts4 ,if 
in fitting up the stales you find the   
glue is not sufficient1 you can         
strengthen the important joints by use  
of doll pins4   ,one other splendid use 
to which match boxes and stales can be  

put is the provision of the lighter     
sorts of furniture for the dolls' house4
 ,we give two examples typical of the   
extent to which these simple materials  
may be applied4  ,a ,doll's ,umbrella   
,stand is a very happy little idea--very
 simple but extremely effective4 ,at the
 two ends of a small match-box tray1    
long stales are glued1 projecting       
underneath to act as short legs to keep 
the tray from the ground4 ,near the top 
of these upright stales1 four others are
 fixed to act as a strengthening frame4 
,these last should be secured in place  
with doll pins in addition to the       
ordinary dab of tube glue4 ,then across 
the frame so made should be fixed one or
 two short lengths of stale in order to 
divide the stand into two or three      
compartments4 ,fig4 #cj shows the       
completed stand4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 
#cj4   ,a ,doll's ,fender is another    
article of similar type4 ,for this we   
require a cardboard or veneer base and a
 number of stales4 ,the base is cut out 

so as to measure at the most #e in4 in  
length2 #e in4 by #a-a_/d in4 is a very 
suitable size4 ,now on three sides this 
will have a rail1 constructed with      
stales alone4 ,a pillar is required     
about #a_/h in4 from each corner3 this  
pillar should be about #c_/d in4 high4  
,stretching from pillar to pillar and   
glued to the base will be three         
pieces--one a long one1 approximately   
#d-a_/b in4 long1 and the other two     
short ones1 about #c_/d in4 in length4  
,above these1 and not far below the tops
 of the pillars1 will be fixed a        
parallel series of long and short rails1
 fixed into position with doll pins and 
glue4 ,very short pieces glued into an  
upright position between the two long   
parallel rails add to the stability of  
the structure and improve the appearance
 7,fig4 #ca74 ,if you can stain the     
different pieces with black and brown to
 represent iron and copper1 then a very 
effective representation of a fender    
will be obtained4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4

 #ca4  ,with a little ingenuity a set of
 fireirons--poker1 tongs1 and           
shovel--can be devised and constructed  
from match stales4   ,in similar fashion
 countless other objects can be copied  
in miniature with most pleasing results4
 ,we have not space here to detail the  
construction of any more2 but we would  
suggest that some of the following might
 be attempted3 bedstead1 table1 chair1  
deck chair 7folding71 camp bed          
7folding74  ,the construction of one or 
two of these will doubtless suggest many
 more1 and reveal to the reader the     
boundless possibilities of this         
peculiarly fascinating pastime4   ,there
 is another broken household article on 
which the young toy-maker may not cast  
eyes of scorn1 and that is the broken   
clothes peg4 ,in skilful hands1 this is 
capable of reconstruction to very useful
 ends4  ,in the first place1 if you can 
use a pocket-knife with some degree of  
skill1 you will be able to chip out of a
 few broken pegs quite a respectable set

 of  ,chess ,men4--,the pegs must be    
sawn across cleanly just through the    
centre of the knob end3 they will then  
stand upright4 ,a few clean cuts with a 
pocket-knife will quite easily suggest a
 king or a castle or a bishop4 ,the     
knight will1 of course1 provide most in 
the way of difficulty--as he is         
generally shown with a horse's head4 ,a 
few painstaking attempts1 however1      
should result in the obtaining of a     
credible likeness4 ,fig4 #cb shows the  
construction of a pawn4  ,illustration3 
,,fig4 #cb4   ,skittle ,men4--,another  
piece of work for the pocket-knife      
expert is the provision of a set of     
funny skittle men for use in the game of
 catapult skittles 7see below74 ,these  
can be cut out to any quaint shape1 and 
may be caricatures of well-known people1
 or of trades1 c4 ,much amusement can be
 got out of the cutting and painting of 
these grotesque little figures4 ,hats   
can be provided for them by glueing on  
little rings of cardboard 7,fig4 #cc74  

,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cc4   ,a         
,catapult ,game4--,probably every boy   
knows what a catapult is--and what fun  
there is in the using of it4 ,happy     
young fingers pull back the powerful    
elastic1 and bright eyes watch the stone
 go whizzing away4 ,there is a          
fluttering of white wings3 something    
falls2 and there1 lying in the road1 is 
a motionless lump of flesh and          
feathers--all that remains of what was a
 beautiful little bird1 pouring out its 
heart in joyful song4  ,boys who think  
for a minute will not want to use the   
catapult in that cruel fashion3 they    
will prefer a game in which no harm is  
done1 in which no innocent creature is  
harmed1 but which provides just as much 
fun4 ,catapult skittles is such a game4 
,it consists simply of a board with a   
catapult at one end1 and a set of       
skittles at the other4 ,the broken peg  
skittles dealt with above will do       
admirably for this 7,fig4 #cd74  ,the   
catapult itself can also be made with   

two pegs4 ,these should be cut off      
cleanly at the forks4 ,two holes1 about 
#c in4 apart1 should then be bored in   
the base board 7for this1 a piece of    
plank about #c ft4 or #d ft4 long will  
do quite well71 and the pegs screwed on 
7see ,fig4 #ci on page #cd74            
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cd4  ,for        
ammunition all you need is an unlimited 
number of little pieces of cardboard1   
folded in two4 ,these carry well1 are   
quite heavy enough to upset the         
skittles1 and1 above all1 are not likely
 to hurt1 even if they do strike a      
player4  ,if you wish to vary the game  
slightly1 you can rig up a cokernut shy 
in place of the skittles4 ,this you will
 find very popular at ,christmas time1  
particularly if you play for the nuts4  
,for this you want some wire hoops on   
which to stand the nuts4 ,to make these1
 take a piece of stiff wire about #e in4
 long and bend one end in the shape of a
 small circle1 about #a_/b in4 across4  
,now bend this loop so that it is at    

right angles to the wire2 then when the 
wire is upright the circle will be      
horizontal 7,fig4 #ce74 ,sharpen the    
other end with a file4 ,make three or   
four like this1 and then some more an   
inch shorter1 and a third lot two inches
 shorter4 ,these must then be driven    
into the other end of the catapult board
 so that they are not too close         
together2 otherwise the game is too     
easy4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ce4  ,now 
all you need is a cardboard shelter4    
,this can be oblong at the ends and     
triangular at the sides2 but the shape  
is quite immaterial so long as the shy  
is properly shut in4 ,fig4 #cf shows a  
suitable arrangement4  ,illustration3   
,,fig4 #cf4   ,another tip-top game1 for
 the making of which you can use broken 
clothes pegs1 is the ring-board or      
indoor quoits4 ,this consists simply of 
a board with a number of pegs projecting
 from it4 ,the object of the game is to 
throw a number of rings in such a       
fashion that they will lodge on the     

pegs1 scoring points according to the   
numbers marked at each peg4 ,the board  
may be hung on the wall1 or else placed 
flat on the floor4 ,in the former case1 
the pegs must have a slightly upward    
slant1 so that the rings will not tumble
 off easily2 in the latter the rings    
must be upright4  ,to make either game1 
obtain a piece of wood about #ah in4    
square4 ,you will probably need to join 
up boards for this4 ,if you get three   
pieces of #f-;in4 board1 each #ah in4   
long1 and secure these side by side by  
means of a couple of battens1 nailed    
right across the back1 the result will  
be a square of the right size 7,fig4    
#cg74  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cg4  ,now 
mark out the board as in ,fig4 #ch4 ,at 
the points where the dotted lines cross 
you will fix the projecting pegs4       
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ch4  ,for these  
last take some broken pegs1 and saw them
 off cleanly1 just above the fork4 ,if  
the board is to be a ground board1 cut  
them quite level2 if an upright board1  

then slightly slanting 7,fig4 #ci74     
,these must be secured in place by long 
thin screws driven in from the back--the
 correct holes having been bored in the 
base board4 ,now give each peg a        
number--assigning the higher numbers to 
the more difficult pegs--and paint the  
number on the back board close to the   
peg4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ci4  ,for  
rings various things can be used4 ,old  
brass curtain rings are suitable in some
 respects1 especially for the ground    
game1 but they are very noisy4 ,thick   
india-rubber rings are frequently used1 
and can be purchased quite cheaply at   
any games shop4 ,rings made of stout    
cord1 or thin rope1 are frequently      
played with1 especially on board ship1  
where the ground game is very popular4  
,should there be any difficulty in      
obtaining or making any of these1 then  
it is a very simple matter to cut rings 
from a sheet of thick cardboard4  ,the  
great objection to the upright game is  
the nuisance of the falling rings4 ,this

 may be avoided partly by constructing a
 cardboard catcher to fit underneath4   
,this is simply a cardboard triangle1 or
 rather two right-angled triangles      
joined together by tape so as to bend   
easily and be strong3 these are nailed  
to the two under edges of the board     
7,fig4 #dj74  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dj4
   ,another splendid shooting toy is the
 ,dart ,box4 ,for this you need a wooden
 box of some sort4 ,size and shape do   
not matter very much1 but a box with    
ends roughly square would do best3 one  
#ae in4 long1 #f in4 wide1 and #f in4   
deep would be admirable for the purpose4
  ,on the inside of one end paint a     
target1 and number each division1       
assigning higher numbers to the spots   
more difficult to hit 7,fig4 #da74 ,now 
in the centre of the opposite end bore a
 circular hole with a diameter of about 
#c_/h in42 and across this1 on the      
outside of the box1 fasten a strong     
piece of ribbon elastic--nailing down   
each end with a piece of wood 7,fig4    

#db74 ,for the dart1 take a butcher's   
wooden skewer1 and into the pointed end 
introduce a piece of a stout needle4    
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #da4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #db4  ,when       
shooting with this toy1 hold the box    
firmly1 open the lid1 fit the dart in   
the hole from the inside1 and draw back 
the elastic4 ,when you have taken       
careful aim1 close down the lid and let 
go4  ,this is a capital toy1 and        
provides endless amusement4 ,also it is 
a very desirable one as far as shooting 
is concerned1 for the closing down of   
the lid ensures perfect safety4   ,while
 talking of making things from clothes  
pegs1 we may as well give particulars of
 one or two things which will appeal    
rather more to our girl readers4   ,a   
,key ,rack such as that shown in ,fig4  
#dc is just such an article as a girl   
would take a delight in making1 because 
of its simplicity and its prettiness4   
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dc4  ,the only   
materials required are two pegs1 some   

hooks1 and a length of ribbon4 ,take the
 two pegs--which should be nicely turned
 ones--and wedge the prongs one within  
the other so that the pegs remain fixed 
at right angles4 ,in doing this1 push   
the pegs in tightly1 but take care not  
to split the pegs in so doing4 ,using a 
bradawl1 make a hole through the        
junction of the prongs1 and screw in a  
hook3 the common sort as used on        
dressers1 c41 will do quite well4 ,now  
bore holes midway between the junction  
and the knobs1 and screw in two more    
hooks4  ,if now a coat of enamel be     
given to the pegs--say green in         
colour--and if ribbons 7pale blue7 be   
tastily arranged as shown in the sketch1
 then a very pretty and useful little   
article will result4   ,yet another     
splendid little article from pegs is a  
,picture ,postcard ,stand1 for which the
 only necessities will be two pegs and a
 piece of wood for a base 7,fig4 #dd74  
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dd4  ,this base  
should be about #d-a_/b in4 long and    

about #b-a_/b in4 wide4 ,it can be cut  
from wood of any thickness1 but a piece 
about #c_/h in4 thick is the most       
suitable4 ,find the centre of each end  
edge of the base1 and draw a line right 
across the wood4 ,if now you measure in 
one inch from each end you will get the 
two spots to which to affix the pegs4   
,these last must first of all have one  
prong removed1 or rather enough of a    
prong to leave a quarter-inch stump     
projecting4 ,this stump should be       
rounded with a sharp knife1 and then the
 whole peg should be finished off with  
glass-paper4 ,these pegs must then be   
fixed knob downwards on to the base4    
,fig4 #ci on page #cd shows a suitable  
method for this4  ,if you are at all    
skilful with your tools you will be able
 to cut a nice moulding round the edge  
of the base1 and so improve the artistic
 effect of your model4  ,two thin coats 
of varnish1 or of good enamel1 will     
complete this attractive little article4
   ,one little wooden toy1 quite        

interesting in itself1 and very useful  
when playing with soldiers1 is  ,the    
,windlass4--,some odd pieces of lath or 
cigar-box wood1 a cotton reel1 a length 
of string1 some stout wire1 and some    
glue and pins1 provide all the          
necessaries4 ,the cotton reel should be 
the largest obtainable4  ,fig4 #de shows
 the completed work4 ,first of all1 make
 a square base for the windlass4 ,if the
 reel is #c in4 long1 cut off four      
lengths of lath 7or four inch-strips of 
cigar-wood box7 each #d in4 long1 and   
glue these into a hollow square1 two    
under and two over4 ,now cut off two    
more lengths1 #c in4 long1 for the      
upright supports--making the top ends   
pointed to hold the slanting covers4    
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #de4  ,before     
these side-pieces are glued and pinned  
into position1 it will be necessary to  
insert the reel4 ,get a piece of skewer1
 or lead pencil1 #d in4 long1 and glue  
it into the hole in the reel4 ,at one   
end of the axle so formed will be placed

 the handle4 ,this can be made in       
several ways1 either with wood or wire1 
or a mixture of the two 7,figs4 #df1    
#dg1 #dh show some varieties1 which may 
also be useful in making other toys74   
,holes just large enough to allow the   
axle to turn freely must then be cut in 
the side supports4  ,the two slanting   
covers should be about #d in4 long1 so  
as to allow a trifle to project at each 
end1 and should be from #c_/d in4 to #a 
in4 wide4 ,the two edges which meet to  
form the apex of the cover should be    
bevelled off so as to form a clean join4
  ,in making this model it would perhaps
 be as well to use carpenter's glue in  
place of the prepared stuff4            
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #df4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dg4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dh4   ,from the  
material supplied by one or two empty   
cigar boxes1 many interesting things can
 be made1 especially articles for use   
with dolls--cradles1 carts1 furniture1  
c4 ,if these articles are of no use to  

you1 they come in very handy for        
presents to little sisters and friends1 
especially when well made and carefully 
finished4   ,a ,doll's ,cradle is       
perhaps one of the simplest to commence 
with4 ,to a box from which the lid has  
been removed1 it is only necessary to   
add two rockers4 ,these can be cut out  
from the lid by means of a fret saw1 and
 then smoothed down with glass-paper4   
,fig4 #di shows the best shape for the  
rockers1 which should be glued on about 
an inch from each end of the box 7,fig4 
#ej74 ,great care should be taken that  
the two rockers are as nearly alike as  
possible1 otherwise the cradle will not 
swing to and fro freely4  ,illustration3
 ,,fig4 #di4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ej4
   ,a ,doll's ,cart is also             
comparatively easy to make1 the only    
really trying part being the cutting of 
the four wheels4  ,for the body of the  
cart use a cigar box which has been     
deprived of its lid1 and planed down    
level round the edges4 ,to the under    

side of this body1 and about one inch   
from each end1 glue two pieces of wood  
to which to fix the wheels4 ,strengthen 
these joins by means of short pins      
driven through4 ,fix the wheels to these
 pieces by means of pins 7,fig4 #ea74   
,in order to support these two          
wheel-holders1 stretch another piece    
across the space between them1 at right 
angles to each1 gluing it firmly to the 
two centres4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ea4
  ,the wheels should be cut with a fret 
saw1 if you possess one4 ,if you do not 
possess one1 then draw out the circle on
 the wood1 and cut the square containing
 the circle4 ,then saw off the corners  
to form an eight-sided figure1 and go on
 cutting off corners until you get down 
to the circle1 which you can finish off 
with glass-paper 7,fig4 #eb74           
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eb4  ,a little   
hook or ring should be attached at the  
bottom of one end1 in order that a      
string may be tied on1 and the vehicle  
drawn along4   ,a                       

,jack-in-the-,box4--,one of the most    
old-fashioned of toys1 this never loses 
its interest4 ,the box required for it  
is practically cubical3 therefore #f    
four-inch squares of cigar-box wood must
 be cut out4 ,two of these will need to 
be cut down to #c-c_/d in4 in width1 so 
that the four-inch bottom and lid will  
fit3 so from two squares cut a strip    
#a_/d in4 wide4 ,glue and pin together  
the two #c-c_/d pieces and two of the   
four-inch pieces to form a hollow       
square4 ,to this will be fixed one of   
the other four-inch pieces to form a    
bottom2 and at the other end the        
remaining four-inch piece will be hinged
 7or wired on like the lid of a         
chocolate box74  ,before the bottom is  
finally put on1 it will be necessary to 
attach the mechanism4 ,for this you will
 require a strong piece of spring about 
#f in4 long when released1 and a doll's 
head4 ,one end of the spring must be    
fixed to the centre of the base4 ,you   
can do this by means of tiny wire       

staples 7bent pins with the heads nipped
 off7 hammered over the wire into the   
base1 and then bent back on the opposite
 side of the wood 7,fig4 #ec74 ,at the  
other end of the spring a piece of      
cardboard must be fixed1 and to it the  
doll's head must be firmly glued4 ,when 
the mechanism is complete1 nail on the  
bottom1 and fix the lid4  ,illustration3
 ,,fig4 #ec4  ,into the centre of the   
front edge of the lid drive a small     
nail1 or stout pin1 and on the box just 
below fix a revolving catch hook4 ,this 
you can quite easily cut from an old    
piece of fairly thick tin 7,fig4 #ed74  
,in this way an effective means is      
provided of releasing the lid and       
enabling the ,jack to shoot out         
suddenly4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ed4   
,the ,jig-saw ,puzzle was at one time a 
very popular toy1 and there are signs   
that its popularity is being revived4   
,if it does not interest you            
particularly1 it will provide a little  
brother or sister with endless          

amusement4  ,in reality the puzzle      
consists merely of a picture 7generally 
an interesting coloured one7 glued very 
firmly to a piece of fretwood or        
cigar-box wood4 ,this is then by means  
of a fret saw cut into a great many     
pieces1 shaped as quaintly and awkwardly
 as possible 7see ,fig4 #ee74 ,these    
pieces are then jumbled up into         
disorder1 and passed on to the little   
one in order that the shapes may be     
fitted into place and the original      
picture reconstructed4  ,illustration3  
,,fig4 #ee4   ,somewhat after the style 
of the jig-saw puzzle just described is 
the  ,geometrical ,puzzle shown in ,fig4
 #ef4 ,each of these consists of a      
capital letter divided up by one or two 
straight lines into right-angled        
triangles and other geometrical shapes4 
,while very simple to look at when      
completed1 these little puzzles are by  
no means easy to solve when the odd     
pieces are given in a jumbled state4    
,the capital letters should be drawn on 

a piece of cigar-box wood1 and then     
carefully cut out with a fret saw1 or1  
better still1 with a tenon saw if you   
have one4 ,if you cannot manage wood1   
then the puzzle can be done in stout    
cardboard and cut out with a sharp thin 
knife4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ef4   ,of
 other cheaply made puzzles  ,the ,reels
 and ,string ,puzzle is highly          
entertaining4 ,the only materials       
required for it are the lid of a cigar  
box1 two cotton reels1 two beads1 and a 
length of smooth string or thin silk    
cord4 ,the making is simplicity itself4 
,all you need do is cut the lid in      
halves and bore three holes in a line in
 one of the halves4 ,of course you can  
ornament your wood as much as you like1 
but that will in no way increase or     
decrease the effectiveness of the       
puzzle4  ,when you have cut it out and  
finished it off nicely with glass-paper1
 thread the beads and reels as shown in 
,fig4 #eg4 ,take special care that you  
do not make any mistake in the          

arrangement1 or your solution will      
result in a hopeless tangle4            
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eg4  ,the object 
of the puzzle is to get the two cotton  
reels1 which1 as you see1 are now on    
quite separate loops1 on to one loop4   
,to solve it proceed as follows3 ,take  
hold of the centre loop1 and pull it    
down to its full extent4 ,now pass the  
right-hand reel through the loop4       
,taking care not to twist the cord1 pass
 this loop through the hole on the      
right-hand side1 over the bead1 and then
 draw it back again4  ,now if you follow
 the same procedure with the left-hand  
reel you will find that the centre loop 
is released and can be pulled through   
the centre hole4 ,then will the two     
reels slide down side by side4   ,one   
thoroughly entertaining and1 to a       
certain extent1 bewildering puzzle is   
,the ,three-hole ,puzzle4--,really the  
puzzle consists of a piece of thin wood 
with three holes cut in it4 ,these three
 holes are respectively circular1       

square1 and triangular 7,fig4 #eh74 ,the
 problem is to cut one block of wood    
which will pass through each hole and at
 the same time fit the hole exactly4    
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #eh4  ,can it be  
done8 ,at first it looks to be quite    
impossible2 but there is a very neat    
solution to the difficulty4  ,first cut 
out your holes4 ,to do this get a       
cigar-box lid and draw out the three    
figures1 taking care that the length of 
the side of the square and the length of
 the side of the triangle and the length
 of the diameter of the circle are      
equal4 ,now1 using your fret saw1 cut   
out these holes very neatly and         
precisely4  ,for the block you need a   
small cylinder of wood3 an odd piece of 
broken broom handle will do admirably4  
,this must be cut and finished with     
glass-paper so that it will fit the     
circular hole exactly4 ,now saw a piece 
just as long as the cylinder is wide4   
,this looked at in one way gives an     
exact square which will fit the second  

hole4 ,thus two holes are catered for4  
,finally1 for the third hole the        
cylinder must be tapered on two sides4  
,to do this draw a diameter at one end  
and then gradually pare away a flat     
surface till the triangular section is  
obtained4  ,fig4 #ei shows how the      
block1 when turned in different ways1   
fits the three holes4  ,illustration3   
,,fig4 #ei4   ,another toy which can be 
made quite easily from cigar-box wood is
  ,a ,model ,signal4--,first cut two    
strips of wood1 half an inch wide and as
 long as you can get them1 which will be
 #h or #i in4 ,these will stand upright 
on a base board1 and form the sides of  
the standard4 ,now between these two you
 must glue shorter pieces of half-inch  
strip1 so as to make the standard solid 
at the top and bottom1 and leave a      
hollow slot1 #a in4 long1 in which the  
signal arm will fit and work up and down
 7,fig4 #fj74  ,illustration3 ,,fig4    
#fj4  ,now cut out and paint a signal   
arm1 about #b-a_/b in4 long4 ,fix this  

by means of a pin passing through the   
two sides of the standard1 and through  
the arm about #c_/d in4 from the square 
end4 ,if it does not move easily in the 
slot1 take off the top surface with     
glass-paper4 ,before fixing the signal  
arm in position1 bore a small hole #a_/d
 in4 from the square end1 and knot in a 
piece of twine or thin wire to act as a 
connection between the movable arm and  
the controlling lever 7,fig4 #fa74      
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fa4  ,at the base
 of the standard fix the controlling    
lever4 ,this consists of a small strip1 
with a pin passing through one end into 
the standard4 ,adjust the length of the 
twine or wire1 so that when the signal  
arm is down1 the lever is horizontal2   
and when the lever is pressed down1 the 
arm rises4 ,you can make a little       
contrivance for fixing the lever by     
erecting a small post close to the      
standard1 and gluing on two stops1 under
 which to rest the free end of the lever
 in its two positions 7,fig4 #fb74      

,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fb4  ,if you     
prefer it1 you can have the controlling 
lever at a distance from the signal     
post4 ,you will then need a longer wire1
 and a little pulley wheel at the base  
of the standard4 ,you must exercise your
 own ingenuity for this4   ,another     
interesting little scientific toy1 which
 has the additional advantage of being  
useful1 is the ,weather ,house1 or the  
,man and ,woman ,barometer4 ,this       
consists of a little house with two     
doorways1 at which appear two figures1  
one in fine weather1 and the other in   
dull 7,fig4 #fc74  ,illustration3 ,,fig4
 #fc4  ,with patience and care this is  
not very difficult to make4 ,for the    
house itself you can use an old cigar   
box1 or1 if you prefer it1 you can make 
the entire house in cardboard4 ,this is1
 of course1 easier1 but not very        
durable4 ,if you are going to use the   
cigar box1 you will need first to cut   
the lid and bottom into something like  
the shape of a house end4 ,you will then

 have to nail the lid down1 and add two 
slanting pieces for the sides of the    
roof3 and that will complete the house4 
,however1 before you nail down the lid  
and put on the roof1 you will need to   
understand the mechanism4 ,first you    
will bore a round hole in the top of the
 roof1 just behind the front gable4     
,this hole is for a round peg to which  
the revolving base is attached4  ,the   
actual mechanism of the toy consists of 
a piece of catgut 7an old violin string1
 or a tennis-racket string74 ,this      
passes through the centre of a small    
flat piece of wood on which the two     
figures are balanced4 ,just in front of 
the string a piece of wire 7a bent      
hairpin will do admirably7 is fixed1 so 
as to form a loop through which the     
catgut can pass 7see ,fig4 #fd74 ,the   
other end of the catgut is fixed to the 
peg which fits in the hole in the roof4 
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fd4  ,for the man
 and woman you can use two of the       
grotesque figures cut from clothes pegs4

 ,screws passed through the revolving   
base will secure the figures firmly and 
at the same time add a little weight1   
and so improve the balance4  ,when there
 is moisture in the air the catgut will 
twist4 ,you must fit together the       
different parts and then1 by turning the
 peg to right or left1 adjust the       
position of the figures so that the lady
 appears in fine weather and the        
gentleman in wet4   ,a toy of unfailing 
attraction for boys--and girls as       
well--is  ,the ,marble ,board4--,this   
may be quite a simple affair--such as a 
boy can carry in his pocket for use in  
the playground--just a piece of wood1   
such as a cigar-box lid1 with a number  
of holes cut along one edge1 and a      
handle added 7,fig4 #fe72 or it may be a
 much more elaborate form intended for  
use as a table game4  ,illustration3    
,,fig4 #fe4  ,in this latter case there 
is a front board1 similar to that in the
 simple form2 but behind each hole there
 is a little compartment for the        

collection of the marbles 7,fig4 #ff74  
,to make this you need two pieces of    
wood1 about #b in4 wide1 and as long as 
the table is broad3 any sort of wood    
will do4 ,these are for the front and   
back of the contrivance4 ,the front must
 next be marked out for the marble      
holes1 allowing about #a in4 for the    
hole and #a in4 for the space between4  
,of course1 the wider the spaces between
 the more difficult it becomes to score4
 ,these holes must then be cut out by   
means of a fret saw1 or1 if you do not  
possess one1 by means of saw and chisel4
 ,the back and front must then be       
secured in position by means of         
end-pieces nailed or screwed on4 ,these 
should be about #c in4 long4            
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ff4  ,the next   
piece of work is the adjustment of the  
partitions4 ,for these cigar-box wood is
 best4 ,you can either cut these        
partitions to the exact distance between
 the front and the back1 and glue them  
into position2 or else you can make them

 a little larger1 and fit them into     
grooves cut into the front and back3 but
 that is a nice little piece of         
carpentry for you4  ,when you have done 
this1 all that is necessary is to give  
the whole thing a coat of paint1 and    
place numbers over the various          
holes--taking care that you do not put  
all the high numbers together4  ,boards 
similar to this are used in the         
,colonies for a game known as ,bobs4    
,larger balls are used1 and propelled by
 means of a cue as in billiards4 ,if you
 can obtain the balls1 this is a        
delightful game1 and one well worth     
making4   ,a ,wooden ,wind ,wheel for   
the garden is a splendid little model to
 make--interesting in itself1 but doubly
 desirable because so much can be done  
with it4 ,of course1 it can be made     
quite small and very simple1 and still  
provide unending amusement to smaller   
brothers and sisters2 but for our own   
purpose it is just as well to make a    
larger and stronger specimen1 one which 

can be employed as a power station for  
the working of smaller toys4  ,the main 
parts are3 7#a7 a circular hub1 about   
#b-a_/b to #c in4 in diameter1 and #a to
 #a-a_/d in4 in thickness 7for the      
smaller varieties a cotton reel will do 
admirably72 7#b7 six or eight sails1    
each about #f or #g in4 long and #c in4 
wide at the extreme end1 tapering down  
to a little more than the width of the  
hub at the other2 7#c7 a hardwood axle2 
and 7#d7 a driving wheel4 ,for this last
 a cotton reel will do splendidly1      
especially one of those with wide       
flanges and a slender centre4 ,the      
general arrangement is shown in ,fig4   
#fg4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fg4  ,the  
cutting of the hub is not a very        
difficult matter if you have a fret saw4
 ,it should be cut across the grain if  
you can get a suitable piece of wood4   
,the sails also are quite easy to make4 
,for these you cannot beat cigar-box    
wood4 ,the cutting of the grooves in the
 hub for the insertion of the sails is  

the most trying piece of work4 ,these   
grooves should be just large enough to  
allow the sails to fit tightly1 and     
should be cut at an angle of #de across 
the hub4 ,the sails should then be glued
 in with carpenter's glue4  ,for the    
axle secure a piece of round wood1 such 
as an odd length of half-inch dowel-rod4
 ,this should be cut to a length of     
about #d-a_/b to #e in4 ,on this should 
be fixed the wheel itself1 and1 at a    
sufficient distance to prevent the sails
 catching the string1 the bearing wheel4
 ,a ,french nail in each end of the axle
 will then secure it in position between
 the side supports and secure an easy   
running4  ,if you have a play shed in   
the garden1 this apparatus can be       
erected at the top of a high post       
projecting through or at the side of the
 roof4 ,the driving strings can then    
pass through a hole in the roof or the  
wall1 and the power can be transmitted  
by a double pulley wheel and another    
driving string4 ,if you have no play    

shed1 it is not at all difficult to rig 
it up outside a window4 ,you can try    
that1 and prove your own inventive      
abilities4   ,how to use the ,wind      
,power ,machine4--,one thing which this 
mechanism will drive in good fashion is 
an overhead tramway system--a very      
pretty little toy when in working order4
  ,for this all that is required is a   
number of cotton reels1 a length of     
stout cord1 and one or two of the model 
trams described on page #ba4 ,if you    
care to1 you can make proper standards  
for the cotton reels4 ,fig4 #fh shows   
such an arrangement4 ,the flat base is  
for heavy weights when the system is    
rigged up on a table or other place     
where nails cannot be used4 ,these reels
 must turn freely to allow the easy     
passage of the cable4 ,in one place     
there must be a double reel 7,fig4 #fi7 
for the transmission of the power4 ,the 
lower reel will act as the ordinary     
cable wheel1 while the other1 glued     
firmly to it1 will carry the driving    

belt from the wind machine described    
above4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fh4      
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fi4  ,the model  
trams must be fixed to the cable4 ,this 
is done by means of two wires1 fixed to 
the pole of the tram and twined round   
the cable4 ,when this is connected up   
and the cable drawn tightly round the   
standard reels1 the vehicles circulate  
rapidly on what is really a complete    
model tramway system4   ,another        
interesting contrivance to which the    
wind power can be harnessed is  ,a      
,roundabout4--,this attractive little   
toy can be made quite readily from one  
or two reels1 and four ordinary wooden  
skewers4  ,the first thing required is a
 base board1 for which any tolerably    
smooth and heavy piece of wood will     
suffice4 ,now in the centre of this fix 
an upright piece of thick wire 7a       
knitting needle will do72 and glue on a 
cotton reel at the base of this4  ,in   
order to secure the absolutely smooth   
running of the roundabout it will be    

necessary to improvise some sort of     
bearings4 ,for this there is nothing    
better than two hard glass beads4 ,if   
one of these beads be sunk into the top 
of the reel just mentioned1 and the     
other fixed in the bottom of another    
loose reel1 the upper one will revolve  
freely on the lower 7,fig4 #gj74 ,this  
loose reel will be the driving wheel of 
the contrivance and will hold the power 
band from the wind wheel4 ,fixed to this
 running wheel1 and immediately above1  
will be another reel for the actual     
merry-go-round4 ,into the sides of this 
uppermost reel bore four holes1 and     
insert the pointed ends of the four     
skewers1 arranging them so that all four
 are at right angles4 ,the running will 
be facilitated if another glass bead is 
sunk in the top of this reel4           
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gj4  ,all that   
remains now to complete the roundabout  
is to fix four figures--horses1 boats1  
or similar--at one end of each skewer4  
,these figures can be drawn on cardboard

 and cut out2 or they can be sawn from  
fretwood4   ,another interesting        
variation of this toy is the  ,fairy    
,light ,wheel4--,for this1 instead of   
fixing figures at the ends of the       
skewers1 obtain four egg shells1 and    
suspend them by means of wires from the 
ends of the arms 7,fig4 #ga74 ,now if   
little night-lights or odd ends of      
candle be placed in the egg shells and  
lighted1 a very pretty effect is        
obtained when the whole is made to      
revolve4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ga4    
,a toy which is always welcome to boys  
and girls is  ,a ,pair of               
,scales4--,moreover this is a toy which 
can be made quite accurately with the   
aid of a few quite ordinary materials4  
,to a pair of scales--or a balance1 as  
it is sometimes called--there are       
generally these parts3 7#a7 a balancing 
arm1 generally called the beam2 7#b7 an 
upright standard on which the beam is   
supported2 7#c7 two scale pins1 and     
chains 7or strings7 to suspend them2    

7#d7 a base board to which the upright  
standard is fixed4 ,fig4 #gb shows the  
sort of thing we mean4  ,illustration3  
,,fig4 #gb4  ,now of these things not   
one presents any real difficulty4 ,for  
the base board any piece of wood about a
 foot long1 #e in4 wide1 and #c_/d in4  
thick will do quite well4 ,for the      
upright standard you require a piece of 
wood about #i in4 long and #a in4       
square--one end of which must be fixed  
to the base board4 ,the method of doing 
this will depend very largely on your   
degree of proficiency in the art of     
carpentry4 ,if you know how to make a   
mortise and tenon joint1 that will be   
the most suitable4 ,if you cannot attain
 to that1 then perhaps you can make a   
hole just as large as the standard1 and 
sink the standard in the base4 ,if you  
are not at all an expert1 then you must 
just nail or screw your standard to the 
centre of the base4  ,before you do     
this1 however1 there is something to be 
done to the other end4 ,you must cut a  

slot #a_/b in4 wide and #a-a_/b in4 deep
 7,fig4 #gc;a72 then you must cut away  
small triangular pieces from the centres
 of the tongues left 7,fig4 #gc;b72 and 
finally you must nail to the sides of   
the ,v so formed two little strips of   
tin 7,fig4 #gc;c74  ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #gc4  ,the next thing to be      
constructed is the beam4 ,for this you  
will need a piece of fretwood 7or other 
thin wood7 about #i or #aj in4 long and 
about #a in4 wide4 ,to support this on  
the metal ,v pieces you will need a thin
 piece of steel--such as a piece of an  
old pocket-knife blade4 ,this will be   
driven through the centre of the beam1  
and will project equally on either side 
7,fig4 #gd74 ,remember1 it must fit     
tightly2 so when you cut the slot for   
it1 do not make it too wide4            
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gd4  ,for the    
scale pans two canister lids will do    
quite well4 ,bore three holes in each of
 the rims--measuring off the distances  
with a compass1 so that the holes are   

equally far apart1 and suspend the pans 
by means of three strings passing into  
holes in the ends of the beam4 ,if1 when
 you have completed the work1 the beam  
does not hang perfectly horizontal1 then
 you must add weight or subtract weight 
from one side or the other4 ,you can do 
this by paring off tiny pieces from the 
end of the beam1 or you can stick on    
dabs of sealing wax till the correct    
balance is obtained4  ,if you cannot get
 any proper weights1 then it is not a   
very difficult matter to make some4 ,to 
do this1 all that you need is to get    
some cardboard and a supply of sand1 and
 to borrow a complete set of weights4   
,first of all make a number of little   
cardboard cubes1 having sides varying   
from #c_/d in4 to #c in4 ,draw each one 
out on cardboard 7,fig4 #ge72 cut it    
out2 and bind up with gummed            
tape--leaving one side ungummed4 ,on one
 pan of the balance put this thing1 and 
on the other pan put a proper weight    
7say #a_/b oz74 ,now pour in sand into  

the little cube until it exactly        
balances the correct weight4 ,when it   
does1 wet the binding1 and stick down   
the remaining side4 ,finally print the  
correct weight on one face of the cube4 
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ge4  ,in similar 
fashion you can proceed to make all the 
different weights that you are likely to
 require1 from #a_/b oz4 upwards4 ,while
 not very substantial1 these little     
weights will last quite a long time1 if 
they are handled with care4   ,engines  
of all sorts are always fascinating to  
boys and girls1 and later on we shall   
describe some excellent ones4 ,at this  
point we wish to describe what is       
possibly one of the simplest forms of   
engine known1 and certainly one of the  
earliest4 ,it is the engine driven by a 
flanged wheel1 which itself is made to  
turn by the weight of something falling 
on the flanges4 ,the commonest form of  
this wheel is the water wheel1 where the
 weight of the water falling on the     
wheel causes the revolution4  ,as water 

is generally a messy thing to operate   
with1 especially on such a contrivance  
as this1 we have substituted something  
else4  ,for the working of very light   
toys1 sand provides an alternative      
motive power4 ,if a flanged wheel be    
made after the fashion of a water wheel1
 and a steady stream of sand allowed to 
descend on to the flanges1 then the     
wheel will rotate as long as the supply 
of sand lasts1 and the power may be     
transmitted by pulley wheels for the    
working of some simple mechanism4       
,fig4 #gf shows  ,a ,sand-power         
,engine4--,the large driving wheel      
consists of two circles of thick        
cardboard1 each about #f in4 across1    
firmly glued together4 ,these two       
circles are bevelled1 and fixed facing  
inwards1 so that a groove is left in    
which the power band can run4           
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gf4  ,through the
 centre of the driving wheel thus       
fashioned a piece of dowelling or old   
lead pencil is fixed1 projecting #a_/d  

in4 on one side1 and about #a-a_/b in4  
on the other4 ,nails are driven in the  
two ends of this axle1 and the wheel is 
suspended between supports1 glued and   
screwed firmly to a base board4  ,the   
flanged sand wheel is next constructed4 
,for this1 four oblong pieces of        
cardboard1 #a-a_/d in4 wide and about #b
 in4 long1 are cut out4 ,a line is      
scratched along each of these about     
#a_/b in4 from the end1 and the         
cardboard bent so as to form a scoop to 
hold the sand for an instant4 ,these    
four flanges are then glued to the axle1
 and the side of the driving wheel4 ,if 
the sand wheel so made is not           
sufficiently firm1 then another small   
cardboard circle can be glued to the    
flanges1 on the side remote from the    
driving wheel3 this will strengthen the 
wheel and in no way interfere with the  
running4  ,all that is necessary now is 
to erect some sort of sand supply3 for  
this a large canister will do4 ,a tiny  
hole must be punched in the bottom of   

the tin1 and a revolving trap made with 
another piece of tin4 ,this is simple   
enough3 all you need to do is cut a     
piece of tin about #c_/d in4 long and   
#a_/b in4 wide1 and punch a hole in one 
end4 ,this pierced tin should then be   
placed so that the unbroken end of the  
slip covers the supply hole4 ,a forked  
rivet should then be passed through the 
hole in the slip and through the bottom 
of the canister and fixed in place      
7,fig4 #gg72 the trap can then be made  
to revolve1 and the sand supply started 
or stopped at will4 ,the canister should
 be placed above the wheel so that a    
thin stream falls on the flanges and    
turns the wheel4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 
#gg4  ,if a string be now passed round  
the outside edge of the driving wheel1  
the mechanism can be harnessed to any   
toy and the motive power supplied4 ,for 
instance1 the contrivance can be erected
 on a flat hull similar to that shown in
 ,fig4 #hc1 page #gj2 and the power     
band1 passing through a hole in the     

centre of the hull1 can be connected    
with the propeller by means of a rod 7in
 place of the elastic74 ,the resultant  
machine1 though not highly efficient1 is
 yet quite attractive4   ,another       
material from which some delightful toys
 can be contrived is tin1 or1 as it is  
more correctly called1 tinned iron4     
,this is the stuff cocoa tins and       
mustard tins and many other articles are
 made of4 ,perhaps the simplest toy we  
can commence with is  ,a ,rotating      
,snake4--,for this secure a clean flat  
piece of thin tin--the piece which the  
little patent cutter removes from the   
top of a round cigarette tin will do    
admirably--and1 using a soft lead       
pencil1 draw on it a spiral snake1 such 
as is shown in ,fig4 #gh4 ,now cut along
 the lines with a stout pair of         
scissors1 or else with a sharp-pointed  
knife4 ,pull out the resultant spiral   
till it is stretched as in ,fig4 #gi1   
and mount it by means of the tail on an 
upright piece of pointed stout wire4    

,the serpent will rotate on this for a  
considerable time4  ,illustration3      
,,fig4 #gh4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gi4 
,if you are good at bent-wire work1 you 
will be able to make a wire stand by    
which to fix it on a lamp chimney or gas
 globe3 it will then revolve            
continuously1 and with considerable     
speed4   ,a ,tin-can ,steam             
,roller4--,this is a nice piece of metal
 work1 and1 when finished well1 provides
 a proper little toy4 ,to construct it  
you need several tins--a round tin1 such
 as a cocoa tin1 about #b in4 across and
 #d in4 long2 an oblong tin1 about      
#c-a_/b in4 by #c in4 by #b in41 such as
 the larger-sized mustard tins2 a round 
cigarette tin1 about #b-a_/b in4 across 
and #c-a_/d in4 deep2 two equal-sized   
tin lids from canisters1 each about #d  
in4 across2 and a cotton reel4 ,these1  
the main items1 when put together1 yield
 a model similar to that shown in ,fig4 
#hj4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hj4  ,the  
fixing is quite a simple affair4 ,with a

 pair of metal shears 7or strong        
scissors7 you cut away a portion of the 
top of the cocoa tin1 so as to leave    
three tongues4 ,then on the side of the 
oblong mustard tin you mark three lines 
to correspond with the three tongues1   
and cut them through so as to form three
 slots into which the tongues may fit4  
,now1 if the tongues be bent outwards or
 inwards1 then the two tins will hold   
firmly together1 and give the boiler and
 cab of the machine 7,fig4 #ha74        
,before bending these1 however1 it is   
necessary to bore a hole in the under   
side of the boiler for the fixing of the
 front roller4 ,this is attached to the 
boiler by means of a narrow strip of tin
 bent twice at right angles1 and kept in
 place by means of a forked brass rivet 
or a strong brass paper fastener so that
 it will revolve freely4 ,this narrow   
strip of tin just fits over the         
cigarette tin--a piece of knitting      
needle being used as axle1 passing      
through holes bored in the centre of the

 bottom and lid of the tin1 and through 
the ends of the slip4  ,for the larger  
rear wheels the lids of two canisters   
can be used1 or1 if something is        
required giving a more definite         
impression of solidity1 two flat        
boot-polish tins can be substituted4    
,another piece of knitting needle passes
 through the centre of these1 and       
through holes in the sides of the cab1  
and so acts as axle4 ,this is kept in   
place by means of dabs of sealing wax4  
,for the stack you can use a long thin  
cotton reel1 or1 better still1 you can  
fix on another small tin by the method  
shown in ,fig4 #ha4  ,illustration3     
,,fig4 #ha4  ,the turning of the front  
wheel can be regulated by means of two  
strings passing from the two right-angle
 strips through a hole into the cab4 ,if
 you can fix the strings to a piece of  
wood as shown in ,fig4 #hb1 you will be 
able to steer properly4 ,a hole in the  
bottom of the cab1 and a piece of wood  
stretched tightly across the top1 should

 enable you to set up the steering      
apparatus4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hb4  
,a ,working ,motor ,boat4--,to construct
 a motor boat that will travel a        
considerable distance is not really a   
difficult matter4 ,all that is necessary
 is a piece of board for a hull1 a wood 
or metal propeller1 and a yard or two of
 strong elastic3 these1 carefully       
adjusted1 will do all that is necessary4
  ,for the hull1 a piece of #e_/h in4 or
 #c_/d in4 board1 about #ah in4 long    
will do4 ,this can be cut to the boat   
shape by means of a pocket knife or a   
spokeshave1 and finished off with       
glass-paper4 ,it should be sharp-pointed
 at the bows1 about #c in4 to #d in4 at 
the centre1 tapering down to a width of 
#b in4 at the stern4 ,in the centre of  
the hull nail a block of wood1 and to it
 glue two funnels 7,fig4 #hc74 ,for     
these1 the odd lengths cut off from     
bamboo curtain poles will do admirably2 
or1 if these be not obtainable1 a couple
 of incandescent-mantle cases will      

suffice4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hc4    
,the adjustment of the motive power is  
the difficult task4 ,first1 you will    
need to purchase a couple of yards of   
suitable elastic3 this is sold at most  
large toy shops1 and costs usually a    
penny a yard4 ,to fix this into place   
beneath the hull you will need to       
construct two metal supports4 ,if you   
can get an old tin box made from metal  
sufficiently stout1 that will do2 if    
not1 then you had better buy a piece of 
sheet brass1 ,no4 #bj gauge3 #f in4 by  
#d in4 will be ample4 ,draw out these   
supports as shown in ,figs4 #hd and #he1
 and bend them into shape as in ,figs4  
#hf and #hg--one for the bow and one for
 the stern4 ,screw on the bow one about 
#a-a_/b in4 or #b in4 from the point1   
and the stern one in the middle of the  
end4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hd4        
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #he4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hf4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hg4  ,now into   
the bow support fix a loop of stout wire

 to hold the rubber strands1 making it  
sufficiently large to rest against the  
sides and so prevent turning4 ,at the   
stern support adjust the propeller      
bearings4 ,on the care with which these 
are adjusted depends largely the success
 of the model4 ,take a piece of wire    
7#a_/af-;inch brass is best7 and bend it
 as in ,fig4 #hh1 introducing a hard    
smooth glass bead4 ,this bead runs more 
freely against the metal1 and so        
facilitates the working4 ,now stretch   
the elastic between the two loops1      
arranging it so that there are six or   
eight strands4 ,to work the model1 turn 
the propeller round and round till the  
strands of elastic are very tightly     
twisted1 place on the surface of the    
water1 and then release the propeller4  
,fig4 #hc shows the completed model4    
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hh4   ,all boys  
love a toy that goes2 and so a short    
account showing how to make  ,a         
,steamboat that will actually travel on 
the water will be very welcome4 ,our    

boat1 which in reality is not a steam   
boat1 inasmuch as no steam is generated1
 is very simple in its construction and 
possesses neither wheels nor pistons nor
 cranks1 nor any of the things that one 
associates with a steamer4  ,the whole  
motive power is supplied by one or two  
candle ends1 and a bent piece of strong 
metal tubing4 ,this last can scarcely be
 called either odds or ends2 and you    
will probably have to purchase it at a  
shop selling model-engine fittings1 but 
a few pence will cover the cost4 ,you   
must get an eight-inch piece of solid   
drawn copper or brass tubing1 with an   
inside diameter of #a_/h in4            
7,n4,b4--,do not let the man sell you   
soldered tubing1 for it will certainly  
crack when you bend it47  ,the next     
operation is the most difficult3 it is  
bending the tube to the shape shown in  
,fig4 #hi4 ,this must be done very      
gently1 otherwise you will crack or dent
 it4 ,the loop shown should have a      
diameter of about #e_/h to #c_/d of an  

inch4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hi4  ,the 
actual boat itself can be of any shape4 
,if you happen to have an old wooden    
hull suitable to the purpose1 use that2 
if not1 then a flat hull similar to that
 described on page #gj will do quite    
well4 ,fix the bent tubing at the stern 
of the boat1 so that the two open ends  
project over the edge and dip beneath   
the surface of the water 7,fig4 #ij74   
,two pieces of wire bent as in ,fig4    
#ij;a will hold the tubing in place4    
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ij4  ,all that   
you need do now is place the candles    
under the loop of the tube and heat it4 
7,if you have a tiny spirit lamp1 that  
will act more effectively1 of course47  
,the heat from the candles makes the air
 in the tube very hot4 ,this hot air is 
expelled from one arm of the tube2 and a
 current of water rushes up one arm of  
the tube and down the other with        
considerable force4 ,it is this current 
that causes the boat to move4   ,another
 ,working ,steamboat4--,this time our   

boat will merit its name--for we shall  
have a boiler1 and generate a supply of 
steam4  ,if you look at ,fig4 #ia you   
will get a good idea of the construction
 of this model1 and realise how simple  
it really is4 ,the boiler is provided by
 a medium-sized flat oblong tin1 with   
the lid soldered down so that it is     
steam tight4 ,for the purpose of putting
 water into the boiler when necessary1 a
 hole is bored in the lid1 and a cork   
fitted tightly4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4  
#ia4  ,in one end of the boiler1 and    
towards the top1 you must make a pin    
hole4 ,when the water boils well1 the   
steam is expelled through this tiny hole
 with considerable force2 and to this is
 due the motion of the craft4  ,the     
remainder of the fitting up is soon     
done4 ,a flat hull similar to that      
described on page #gj is prepared1 and  
four flat-headed nails driven in1 so    
that the four corners of the boiler can 
each stand on a nail head4 ,the rudder  
is cut from an old piece of tin1 and    

pressed into a knife-cut made in the    
centre of the stern of the hull4  ,the  
boiler is placed into position with the 
steam hole facing the stern1 and lighted
 candle ends are then placed underneath 
the boiler--as many as possible2 for the
 more the candles the greater the heat1 
and consequently the greater the force  
of steam4 ,it will help matters along   
considerably if the boiler is first of  
all filled with hot water1 instead of   
cold2 but be careful not to scald       
yourself in doing this4  ,when steam is 
up1 the boat should travel along at     
quite a comfortable pace4   ,apart from 
the materials dealt with there are      
numerous little fragments4 ,a pane of   
glass is broken1 for instance1 and in   
most cases all the pieces are thrown    
away4 ,now this is quite unnecessary1   
for from them can be made some          
,japanese ,wind ,bells4--,probably most 
boys and girls have heard or seen the   
jolly little wind bells which the       
,japanese people make1 and which many   

,english folk now hang in their houses4 
,as they are made simply of slips of    
glass and pieces of wool or string1     
there is not much difficulty in their   
construction2 and they are worth all the
 trouble you take1 for their merry      
little tinkle is a pleasing sound4  ,the
 slips of glass--they are generally     
little rectangles1 varying from #a in4  
to #b in4 in width1 and #b in4 to #d in4
 in length--are suspended so that when a
 gentle breeze disturbs them the corners
 strike gently4 ,to secure a proper     
suspension1 you can either take a board1
 #f in4 square1 and hang the strings    
from it1 or you can make a conical wire 
frame1 about #f in4 across1 and hang the
 pieces of wool 7or string7 from the two
 rings 7,fig4 #ib74 ,the pieces of      
glass1 which can be of any shape and    
size1 should be fixed by means of       
sealing wax4 ,it is usual to give the   
glass slips a few dabs of colour1 so as 
to give a brighter effect at night4 ,if 
you can introduce one or two pieces of  

coloured glass1 the same effect will    
result4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ib4     
,other broken things1 too1 can be turned
 to account4  ,one such toy1 made up of 
things otherwise quite useless1 is  ,a  
,musical ,box4--,this entertaining      
musical toy1 capable of producing the   
most beautiful sound effects1 can quite 
easily be made with a few broken wine   
glasses4 ,so long as the bowl part of   
the glass is intact1 it does not matter 
to what extent the stem or foot part has
 been damaged1 provided there is enough 
of the stem remaining to insert in a    
wooden block4  ,the sound effects are   
produced by rubbing the ball of the     
finger gently round the rim of the      
glass4 ,for this the finger-tip must be 
absolutely clean1 particularly of any   
grease1 and must be thoroughly wet4     
,probably for the first time or two of  
rubbing nothing will occur4 ,if that is 
so1 continue wetting the finger1 and rub
 it on an india-rubber sponge or a piece
 of soft india-rubber4 ,you will know at

 once when the finger-tip is in the     
right condition1 for it will commence to
 drag on the rim4 ,eventually a most    
beautiful pealing note will be emitted1 
which note will alter slightly in tone  
if water be poured into the glass4  ,if 
in this way you can secure eight glasses
 tuned exactly to an octave1 then you   
have the wherewithal to produce tunes4  
,when you have obtained the glasses1    
then it is quite easy to fit them into a
 box quite close together1 leaving just 
enough room for the fingers to move     
round4 ,blocks of wood must be nailed to
 the bottom of the box1 and holes bored 
in these blocks just exactly large      
enough to admit the stem 7see ,fig4     
#ic74  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ic4   ,a  
,fleet of ,nutshell ,boats floating on a
 bowl of water makes a very pretty      
little picture--nor are these little    
crafts at all difficult to make4 ,for   
the hull a nice evenly-shaped walnut    
shell is required3 this should be       
cleaned out1 trimmed with a sharp knife1

 and scrubbed with a stiff brush4 ,for  
the mast a match stick will suffice4 ,to
 keep this in position glue two match   
sticks right across the widest part of  
the hull--one on each side of the       
mast--and then put a daub of glue at the
 bottom of the hull and others where the
 cross-bars touch the mast4  ,the sail  
consists merely of a piece of paper with
 two holes through which the mast       
passes4 ,a glance at ,fig4 #id will     
reveal the method of fitting up1 and    
show what a trim little craft can result
 from such a simple origin4             
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #id4   ,one other 
toy which has always been deservedly    
popular is  ,the ,jumping ,frog4--,if   
you are skilful with your pocket knife  
you can cut out a representation of the 
animal from a lump of wood1 and paint it
 to make it more realistic4 ,if1        
however1 you have not the requisite     
skill1 you can still construct the toy  
by using a walnut shell in place of the 
carved model4 ,in either case the actual

 mechanism for jumping is the same4     
,you want a good-sized shell1 or rather 
half-shell1 some very strong thin twine1
 and a match4 ,first you must bore two  
holes in the sides of the shell1 not too
 near the edge1 then tie a loop of twine
 round the holes and the edge 7,fig4    
#ie74 ,now if you put a piece of match  
stick between the strings1 and twist the
 string by turning the match round1 you 
will complete the jumping mechanism     
7,fig4 #if74 ,keep your finger on the   
match to prevent it flying back1 and    
carefully turn the shell upside down on 
the table1 holding it all the time4 ,now
 if you press one finger on the side of 
the shell so that it slips suddenly from
 under1 then your frog will perform an  
astounding leap in the air4 ,but1 in    
your eagerness to get a big jump1 do not
 twist the string too tightly1 otherwise
 the holes will break out4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ie4              
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #if4  ,if1 as     
mentioned above1 you are skilful enough 

to cut out the frog1 you will need to   
hollow out the body so that there will  
be room for the turning of the match4   
,you can also do very much the same with
 a fowl's wishbone if you tie a loop of 
string round the two prongs and use the 
match as shown above4   ,the shell of an
 ordinary hen's egg does not seem to    
give much scope for construction4 ,yet  
much can be done with it4 ,one of the   
best things you can make is  ,an        
,egg-shell ,yacht4--,next time mother is
 making cakes1 or anything which needs  
eggs1 tell her you want the shell       
intact1 and ask her to let you blow out 
the contents4 ,to do this1 bore a small 
hole at each end1 and blow4 ,of course1 
if you have ever collected birds' eggs1 
and are an adept at egg-blowing1 you    
will only need one hole4  ,stop up the  
holes with sealing wax or plasticene4   
,this complete shell is to form the hull
 of the yacht2 it will be necessary to  
add a keel1 mainmast1 bowsprit1 c41 to  
finish the craft4  ,for the mainmast get

 a very thin piece of wood--a very thin 
piece of bamboo or a piece of split cane
 will do--and pass it carefully through 
two holes which have previously been    
bored in the opposite sides of the      
shell4 ,let it project an inch or two   
below 7,fig4 #ig;a74 ,fix in position by
 means of sealing wax4 ,in similar      
fashion arrange a bowsprit4             
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ig4  ,as the hull
 is very light1 it will be necessary to 
have a good steadying keel4 ,a piece of 
sheet lead about #b in4 long and #a in4 
wide will do admirably4 ,secure it to   
the shell and the projecting piece of   
mainmast by means of sealing wax 7,fig4 
#ig;b74  ,now if this floats properly   
you can proceed with the rigging1 which 
may be as simple or as elaborate as you 
please4 ,fasten the spars to the        
mainmast by means of very thin wire4    
7,sealing wax will do1 but is not at all
 reliable for this47 ,for the sails use 
tough tissue paper1 gluing the main and 
top sails in position1 and fixing the   

jib and foresails by means of threads4  
,the addition of a cardboard            
rudder--fixed by wax--will complete a   
trim little craft which will sail in    
approved regatta fashion1 if it has been
 properly adjusted 7,fig4 #ih74         
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ih4   ,nor must  
broken egg shells be despised4 ,these   
can be decorated with paints1 and some  
very amusing little articles provided4  
,legs and arms can be added1 fixed into 
place with dabs of sealing wax2 clothes 
can be devised2 and grotesque little    
toys improvised--toys suitable for the  
decoration of the ,christmas tree or    
sale at bazaars1 c4   ,quite a number of
 amusing little toys can be made from   
those cylindrical cardboard cases in    
which incandescent mantles are usually  
sold4 ,for the most part the only things
 needed for the construction are a sharp
 knife 7one with a very thin blade      
preferred71 a tube of glue1 one or two  
odd pieces of cardboard1 and some       
paints4   ,a ,money ,box1 for instance1 

is always useful1 and1 by the aid of the
 paint box1 can be made very attractive4
  ,take off the two end covers1 and glue
 one end of the case to a circle of     
thick cardboard1 about #a_/d in4 larger 
in radius than the case4 ,now for the   
other end construct a conical top4 ,to  
do this1 draw out a circle with a radius
 of about #a-a_/d in4 and cut out a     
sector 7see ,fig4 #i1 p4 #h74 ,the two  
ends can then be brought together and   
fixed with a piece of glued tape1 and   
the whole thing can be glued to the     
other end of the case4  ,before this is 
done1 however1 the money slot should be 
cut in the side4 ,much can be done to   
make the article attractive by a        
judicious use of the paints4 ,the money 
slot1 for instance1 can be regarded as  
the mouth1 and a grotesque face drawn   
round it4  ,if you care to cover the    
conical top with felt or flannel1 you   
can make the model very funny indeed4   
,in the spring you can damp the felt or 
flannel1 and spread on grass seeds3     

these will grow and give your grotesque 
figure a fine crop of bright green hair 
7,fig4 #ii74 ,of course1 if you are     
going to damp the upper parts of the    
model1 you must obtain and use some sort
 of waterproof glue4  ,illustration3    
,,fig4 #ii4   ,a ,pin-hole ,camera is   
another extremely simple yet            
extraordinarily interesting contrivance 
7,fig4 #ajj74  ,illustration3 ,,fig4    
#ajj4  ,for this you require two mantle 
cases1 one just large enough to slide   
easily into the other4 ,take the smaller
 one1 and cover one end with tissue     
paper4 ,this must be done neatly and    
strongly1 otherwise1 as the case slides 
up and down in the outer one1 the tissue
 will tear4 ,you should draw out on the 
tissue a circle just as large as the end
 of the case1 and then all round1 draw  
and cut little pointed tags to lap over 
the edges and stick down 7,fig4 #aja74  
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aja4  ,one end of
 the outer case should be covered with  
thick brown paper in just the same way1 

and a tiny pin hole pricked exactly in  
the centre of the brown-paper end4  ,now
 if a lighted candle be placed near to  
the pin hole1 and if the inner case be  
moved to and fro till the right spot is 
found1 an exact picture of the candle   
flame will be seen on the tissue paper4 
,a ,doll's ,easy ,chair4--,apart from   
accurate and careful cutting there is   
not very much difficulty in this4 ,take 
a mantle case and remove the covers4    
,now draw a line from end to end and use
 this as a base line1 measuring the     
distances to right and left to the      
different points3 this will ensure      
accuracy4 ,fig4 #ajb shows one design   
suitable for the purpose2 but you will  
possibly like to make up your own4 ,the 
fitting of the seat is done as follows3 
,on a piece of cardboard mark out a     
circle having the same radius as the    
case1 and another circle with a radius  
#a_/h in4 larger4 ,cut this out as shown
 in ,fig4 #ajc4 ,now cut a slot a little
 more than half-way across the case from

 the front1 at a level suitable for the 
seat1 and into this slide the seat4 ,if 
the slot has not been cut far enough    
across1 go on cutting till the seat fits
 correctly in the case4 ,then glue it in
 position4  ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajb4 
,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajc4  ,all that  
is now required is a coat of paint1 and 
any ornamentation you may care to add4  
,in conclusion we would point out once  
more what we stated at the              
beginning--namely1 that the examples    
given are intended merely to suggest    
ways and means of making countless other
 articles4       ,printed by ,the       
,edinburgh ,art ,printing ,co4 ,ltd4    
,edinburgh           99      99      99 
99      99      99     ,transcriber's   
note3  ,illustrations have been moved to
 logical locations between paragraphs4  
,the following suspected error was      
changed in the text3 on page #fi1       
changed somethng to something