,,riding ,,and ,,driving ,,for ,,women ,illustration3 ,belle ,beach ,,riding ,,and ,,driving ,,for ,,women ,,by ,,belle ,,beach ,,illustrated ,,new ,,york ,,charles ,,scribner',s ,,sons #aiab ,,copyright1 #aiab1 ,,by ,,charles ,,scribner',s ,,sons ,published ,october1 #aiab ,,to ,,my ,,friend ,,without ,,whose ,,help ,,this ,,book ,,could ,,not ,,have ,,been ,,introduction ,this book does not pretend to be an exhaustive treatise on the subject of horsewomanship4 ,it is offered merely as a collection of the most important points gleaned in my career as a horse-lover and professional horsewoman4 ,while from experience alone a rider may evolve good form if she is a natural born horsewoman1 yet this is so rare that1 with most of us1 a knowledge at the start of the general fundamental principles which are the basis of form in riding and driving1 is essential4 ,it was my good fortune to have my mother1 ,mrs4 ,emily ,s4 ,beach1 lay the foundation for me and1 similarly1 these chapters may aid some of my readers4 ,nothing in this book is hearsay4 ,that which takes but a moment to tell has taken me years to learn2 learned as a pupil2 learned as a teacher2 learned by observation2 learned by exhibition1 by many a triumph1 by many a heart-break2 much of it a pleasure1 much a hard task1 but repaid always by my comrades through it all--the horses4 ,i desire to express my thanks to ,messrs4 ,brewster ,co41 ,mr4 ,herman ,haas1 ,messrs4 ,martin ,martin1 ,messrs4 ,whippey1 ,steggall ,co41 ,the ,durland ,co41 and ,mr4 ,p4 ,nard for the many illustrations and suggestions which they have kindly given me4 ,many of the illustrations are from photographs which my friends have been kind enough to send me4 ,,contents ,,part ,i--,,riding ,,chapter ,,page ,i4 ,,form ,,in ,,riding #c ,,ii4 ,,hands #ad ,,iii4 ,,mounting--,,side-,,saddle #ca ,,iv4 ,,riding ,,astride #cg ,v4 ,,hunting #eh ,,vi4 ,,show ,,ring #gg ,,vii4 ,,hints ,,on ,,riding #ia ,,viii4 ,,correct ,,dress ,,for ,,the ,,saddle #ajh ,,ix4 ,,saddles ,,and ,,bridles #acc ,x4 ,,the ,,saddle ,,horse #aeg ,,xi4 ,,the ,,selection ,,of ,a ,,saddle ,,horse #ahj ,,part ,,ii--,,driving ,,xii4 ,,form #aic ,,xiii4 ,,four-,,in-,,hand ,,and ,,tandem ,,driving #bag ,,xiv4 ,,show ,,ring ,,appointments #bde ,,xv4 ,,hints ,,on ,,driving #bej ,,xvi4 ,,dress #bei ,,xvii4 ,,bits ,,and ,,bearing ,,reins #bfd ,,xviii4 ,,harness #bgc ,,xix4 ,,gymkhana ,,games ,,and ,,suggestions ,,for ,,private ,,horse ,,shows #bhb ,,index #bia ,,illustrations ,portrait of ,author ,frontispiece ,,page ,correct ,position of ,body in ,side-,saddle #f ,incorrect ,position of ,body #g ,correct ,position of ,legs #h ,another ,position of ,legs #i ,incorrect ,position of ,legs #aj ,incorrect ,position of ,legs #aa ,correct ,position with ,horse in ,action #ab ,the ,position of the ,child on the ,left of the ,picture is ,correct and that of the ,child on the ,right is ,incorrect #ac ,correct ,position of ,reins #ah ,reversing ,position of ,curb and ,snaffle ,reins #be ,correct ,position for ,park ,riding #bg ,reins in ,both ,hands #bg ,mounting without ,assistance #cb ,mounting with ,assistance #cc ,mounted #cd ,dismounting with ,assistance #ce ,dismounting without ,assistance #cf ,correct ,costume for ,young ,girls ,riding ,astride #ci ,correct ,position for ,riding ,astride #dj ,the 8,cowboy0 ,western ,costume and ,saddle #dc ,mounting ,english ,fashion #df ,mounting ,english ,fashion 7,another ,way7 #dg ,mounting ,military ,fashion #dh ,mounting ,either ,fashion #di ,dismounting #eb ,dismounting #ec ,over ,post and ,rail #ei ,a ,high ,jumper and ,hunter 7,taconite7 #fj ,giving ,him ,his ,head ,over a ,jump 7,heatherbloom7 #fb ,positions of ,hands in ,hunting #fd ,side-,saddle1 ,position ,rising1 ,hands and ,body ,forward #fe ,astride1 ,position of ,legs1 ,hands1 and ,body at ,top of ,jump #ff ,side-,saddle1 ,front ,view1 ,rising #fh ,coming ,down #fi ,a ,good ,type of ,hunter1 ,bred in ,virginia 7,philosopher7 #gj ,a ,good ,type of ,hunter1 ,bred in the ,north 7,ripple7 #ga ,correct ,hunting ,costume #gc ,sandwich ,cases and ,flasks #ge ,lady's ,park ,hack ,type 7,corinne7 #gh ,lady's ,park ,hack 7,marksman7 as ,he was when ,first ,shown #hb ,marksman a ,year ,later1 after ,he had been 8,fined ,down10 when ,he ,won the ,championship #hc ,lined ,up #hi ,safety ,stirrup1 ,open #ajc ,safety ,stirrup1 ,closed #ajc ,riding ,clothes #aji ,new ,style ,costume for ,park ,riding #aab ,old ,style 7#ahhg7 ,postilion ,coat #aac ,a ,winter ,habit #aaf ,a ,smart ,summer ,habit #aag ,stiffed-,legged ,boots4 ,field ,boots #abc ,puttees #acj ,lady's ,park and ,hunting ,saddle #acd ,side-,saddle with ,wide ,pommels and ,safety ,flap #acf ,side-,saddle with ,narrow ,pommels and ,safety ,flap ,up #acg ,side-,saddle with ,stirrup ,adjustable from ,off ,side #ach ,the ,same ,side-,saddle1 ,off ,side1 ,showing ,spring ,flap which ,holds ,flap ,up or ,down at ,will1 ,permitting ,rider to ,adjust ,girths or ,stirrup ,leather ,while ,mounted #aci ,diagram for ,measuring ,side-,saddle #adj ,double-,girth4 ,fitz-,william ,girth4 ,corded ,girth #ada ,adjusting ,stirrup from ,off ,side #adc ,plain ,snaffle4 ,bit and ,bridoon4 ,bit and ,bridoon with ,cavesson #adf ,correctly ,saddled and ,bridled for ,hunting #adh ,varieties of ,riding ,bits #aej ,bits and ,bridles #aea ,lady's ,cross-,saddle with ,rolls4 ,lady's ,cross-,saddle1 ,plain ,flap4 ,light-,weight ,saddle1 ,flaps ,cut ,forward #aee ,champion ,saddle ,mare 7,lady ,bonnie7 #aeh ,combination ,type 7,lady ,macdonald7 #aei ,english ,type of ,lady's ,park ,hack #afj ,light-,weight ,thoroughbred ,lady's ,riding ,horse 7,indian ,flower7 #afa ,thoroughbred ,hunter 7,sunday ,morning7 #afd ,perfect ,type of ,heavy-,weight ,thoroughbred ,riding ,horse 7,heartspring7 #afe ,show ,winner in ,park ,hack ,classes 7,sonia7 #afh ,high-,stepping ,park ,hack 7,roslyn7 #afi ,an ,old-,fashioned ,combination ,type 7,warwick7 #agj ,combination ,type 7,mayo7 #aga ,lightfoot1 ,winner of ,ladies' ,saddle ,class #agd at ,age of ,twenty-,three ,show ,pony #age ,polo ,pony #agg ,welsh ,pony4 ,the ,best ,type for ,children #agh ,kentucky ,bred ,lady's ,riding ,horse 7,dixie7 #aha ,points of a ,horse #ahc ,lady's ,western ,park ,hack 7,pink ,lady7 #ahe ,george ,,iv ,phaeton #aid ,inspection of the ,harness #aie ,getting ,length of the ,reins #aif ,stepping into the ,trap #aig 8,orthodox0 ,position of ,reins and ,whip #aih 8,modern0 ,position of ,reins with ,loop #aii ,correct ,position for ,shortening ,reins #bja ,pulling ,up #bje ,styles of ,ladies' ,traps1 ,country and ,town #bji ,starting #bab ,pulling ,reins ,through ,terret after ,pulling ,up #bae ,a ,perfectly ,appointed ,road ,coach with ,postilion 7,london-,brighton1 #aijg7 #bah ,position of ,four-in-,hand and ,tandem ,reins in ,left ,hand #bai ,four-in-,hand ,harness #bbj ,winding ,lash after ,catching ,thong #bbb ,measuring the ,reins #bbc ,lady's ,four-in-,hand #bbf ,lady's ,four-in-,hand ,turning to the ,right #bbi ,high ,tandem ,cart #bcb ,tandem from ,bay ,shore1 ,long ,island1 ,show1 #aiaa #bcd ,correct ,tandem ,harness for ,show ,ring #bcf ,correct ,position of ,hands ,driving ,four-in-,hand or ,tandem #bch ,perfectly ,appointed ,lady's ,pair #bdf ,lady's ,single ,basket ,phaeton #bdg ,western ,style of ,gig ,horse #bdh ,driving a ,pair to a ,george ,,iv ,phaeton #bea ,basket ,phaeton #bed ,correct ,groom's ,livery #bfc ,bits #bfe ,proper ,adjustment of ,bearing ,reins #bgj ,single ,phaeton ,harness #bgd ,single ,road ,harness #bgf ,double ,road ,harness #bgh ,english ,phaeton ,pair ,harness #bgi ,a ,hempstead ,cart #bhj 7,newsboy7 ,a ,prize-,winning ,runabout ,entry #bhe ,judge's ,stand in ,open ,air ,show #bhf ,gymkhana ,games at ,country ,show #bhh ,,riding ,,and ,,driving ,,for ,,women ,,part ,i--,,riding 8,i think ,i could turn and live with animals1 ,they are so placid and self-contained2 ,i stand and look at them long and long1 ,they do not sweat and whine about their condition1 ,they do not lie awake in the dark and weep for their sins2 ,they do not make me sick discussing their duty to ,god2 ,not one is dissatisfied4 ,not one is demented with the mania of owning things2 ,not one kneels to another1 nor to his kind that lived thousands of years ago40 --,walt ,whitman4 ,,chapter ,i ,,form ,,in ,,riding ,with all the changes in fashion and fads1 riding still holds its own1 and the field which it occupies can never be invaded4 ,for women1 quite as much as and even more than for men1 it is of all exercises the one best adapted to keep them in condition1 to restore the glow of health1 and to key up the whole system to respond to all the delights of life4 ,no less for a woman than for a man is the old saying true1 8,there is something about the outside of a horse that is good for the inside of a man40 ,self-made riders are apt to scoff at what is termed 8form10 but 8form0 is neither fad nor fashion4 ,it is that way of doing any particular thing that is recognized as the best4 ,this is why a self-taught person is at a disadvantage4 ,she may1 possibly from her experience1 have worked out the correct theory of riding1 but she has not had the advantage of learning all that has been worked out by others1 and it is the assimilation of the results of others' experience that constitutes form4 ,riding should1 ,i think1 be as much a part of a child's education as any of the subjects taught at school2 in fact1 ,i would paraphrase and say that 8,reading1 ,riding1 and ',rithmetic0 were the essential elements of every child's education4 ,all children find in it the keenest pleasure1 and to the delicate child it offers salvation4 ,once the first difficulties are overcome1 the benefits are soon realized4 ,benefits not only to the general health1 with restored circulation and appetite1 but to the character which acquires patience and self-control--qualities quite as essential as the proper use of hands and legs for the making of a horsewoman4 ,i do not1 however1 approve of very young children taking riding lessons4 ,the age of seven is quite young enough1 for when younger than that a child's legs are so short that it is difficult for her to keep her balance at any gait faster than a walk4 ,but ,i do approve of very young children becoming accustomed to the motion and acquiring balance by being held on the back of a very quiet pony1 which1 of course1 should not go beyond a walk4 ,the great danger in beginning too young is that the child may have a fall1 and1 if she does1 may receive a shock to her nervous system1 the effects of which will make her timid about horses for years to come4 ,i like to have a child come to me for her lesson without fear1 not timid from any past experience1 yet enough awed at assuming control of so big an object as a pony to have respect for1 and be dependent on1 her teacher4 ,later on1 confidence will come with increasing knowledge1 and so her education as a horsewoman will be properly begun4 ,although learning to ride in childhood is certainly an advantage1 yet age is not necessarily an impediment to a woman's learning the art4 ,i have known many women who have never been on a horse's back until they were forty years of age1 or even older1 who1 after a few courses of lessons1 have derived much pleasure from their riding1 and1 with application1 have even become proficient4 ,however1 the best riders1 like the best singers or pianists1 are born1 not made1 and there is a grace about the natural rider that cannot be attained even by the most thorough training4 ,form in riding depends chiefly upon a correct seat1 and that in turn depends upon balance and correct position4 ,balance can only be attained by keeping the muscles relaxed and being ready to respond at any moment to every movement of the horse4 ,it is impossible to acquire balance if all the muscles are stiff all the time4 ,the body should sway in rhythm with the horse's gait4 ,this not only looks well1 but saves both rider and horse from all unnecessary exertion and fatigue4 ,illustration3 ,,correct ,,position ,,of ,,body ,,in ,,side-,,saddle ,illustration3 ,,incorrect ,,position ,,of ,,body ,right shoulder too high and too far forward1 caused by wrong position of right knee ,quite as important as balance is the proper position in the saddle4 ,the first point1 remember1 is that the body must be squarely in the saddle1 neither to the right nor to the left1 and the right thigh must be kept pointed almost directly to the front4 ,the body is kept in this position by having both legs at all times in their correct position4 ,the right thigh should be well down on the saddle and the right knee should both press down and pull back on the upper pommel4 ,the right leg from the knee down should be kept close1 but not rigid1 against the saddle-flap and should be nearly vertical1 neither thrust forward nor sideways nor twisted back1 and the right leg should not touch the left leg4 ,if the right leg is kept in proper place1 the right shoulder--the bane of so many women riders--will be neither forward nor down1 but squarely in line4 ,illustration3 ,,correct ,,position ,,of ,,legs ,right leg vertical1 left leg bent at knee and hanging naturally ,illustration3 ,,another ,,position ,,of ,,legs ,some women hold their legs in this position1 but ,i do not approve of it ,illustration3 ,,incorrect ,,position ,,of ,,legs ,both legs too far forward ,illustration3 ,,incorrect ,,position ,,of ,,legs ,left leg too far back ,the left leg should be kept in the same position as a man's leg1 that is1 held in firmly against the saddle4 ,the left knee should be slightly bent and the leaping horn and the stirrup-leather should be so adjusted that the former will press down and over the left thigh about five inches above the knee4 ,side-saddles have two holes1 in either of which the leaping horn may be screwed1 and for most women it is more comfortable to have the horn in the lower hole4 ,the left leg below the knee should be vertical1 neither thrust forward with the heel down nor back with the toe below the level of the heel1 nor1 on the other hand1 thrust out at an angle of forty-five degrees or so from the horse's side4 ,all but experienced riders should ride with the ball of the foot resting lightly on the stirrup-iron1 with the heel a trifle down and the foot parallel to the horse1 or1 if possible1 pointed in1 and this should be done by turning the leg at the thigh joint1 just as is later described in the cross seat4 ,when a rider has become expert she may ride with her foot 8home10 that is1 with the instep resting on the iron4 ,it is always advisable to ride with the foot 8home0 when the horse shies or takes a fast gallop4 ,illustration3 ,,correct ,,position ,,with ,,horse ,,in ,,action ,on this correct position of the left leg depends the evenness of the hips1 and on the correct position of both legs depend the level of the shoulders1 the level of the hips1 the squareness and firmness of the seat1 and the proper control of balance4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,position ,,of ,,the ,,child ,,on ,,the ,,left ,,of ,,the ,,picture ,,is ,,correct ,,and ,,that ,,of ,,the ,,child ,,on ,,the ,,right ,,is ,,incorrect ,,chapter ,,ii ,,hands ,the hands should be held on a level about six inches in front of the waist2 the forearms horizontal1 the upper arms hanging naturally from the shoulders1 so as to keep the elbows level1 and in a vertical plane with the shoulders4 ,bowing the elbows out1 or1 on the other hand1 clapping them too close to the sides1 are common faults1 and are equally bad not only for the sake of appearances1 but because1 in either of these positions1 the strength of the arms is lessened4 ,similarly1 the elbows should not be carried back when the hands are in position1 for1 if they are1 you cannot pull the horse up should he stumble1 or1 on occasion1 stop him suddenly2 nor should they be carried forward over the knee1 for that position is stiff and tiring and gives the body a tendency to bend forward4 ,in jumping a horse trained to jump in the ,american fashion1 when approaching the jump1 the hands are carried well forward and1 at the same time1 the body is also carried forward4 ,the reason for this is partly to help the horse over the jump1 and partly because the horse1 before he rises1 throws his head far to the front1 and the rider's hands and body move with him4 ,on landing1 the horse's head and with it the rider's body and hands resume their normal position4 ,both hands should be kept in position1 and neither arm should ever be allowed to hang at the side in military fashion4 ,nothing looks worse in park riding for either a woman or a man4 ,in riding a horse that is bridlewise and perfectly broken so that he will obey the slightest movement of the reins and can make all the changes of action and of gait by a mere suggestion from one hand1 the other hand should still be kept in almost the same position as if it held the reins1 and remember that if it is necessary to rearrange the hair or the hat1 or if you wish to make any gesture with the right hand1 to be sure to transfer the whip to the left hand4 ,by neglecting this precaution and carrying the whip in the right hand1 when it is moved about1 your horse1 or your companion's1 may see the whip and think he is about to be struck1 and a serious accident may result4 ,the left hand is the bridle-hand and the one in which the reins should habitually be carried4 ,after mounting1 and in first taking up the reins1 remember that the snaffle rein is a trifle longer and wider than the curb rein and that the ends of the snaffle reins are joined with a buckle while the ends of the curb are stitched together4 ,there are different ways of first taking up the reins4 ,one of the best is to grasp them together in the right hand1 the curb reins in the middle and the snaffle reins on the outside1 drawing them sufficiently tight to feel the horse's mouth very lightly1 with the ends passing through the hand and out under the little finger2 then1 holding them all horizontal1 to pass the left hand down on them vertically1 the near snaffle rein outside the little finger1 the near curb between the little finger and the third finger1 the off curb between the second and third fingers1 and the off snaffle between the first and second fingers4 ,then let go with the right hand and turn the left hand into its position with the ends of the reins coming out between the thumb and forefinger4 ,another way is first to take up the snaffle reins with the right hand1 the off rein outside the little finger1 the near between the first and second fingers1 feel the horse's mouth lightly1 and then pass them into their correct position in the left hand1 the near snaffle outside the little finger1 the off snaffle between the first and second fingers2 then pick up the curb reins with the right hand and pass them to the left hand separated by the third finger4 ,a third way is first to pick them up in the right hand in the same position in which they should finally be in the left hand1 except that the off and near reins are reversed2 that is1 the off snaffle rein comes outside the little finger1 and the near snaffle rein between the first and second fingers1 and similarly with the curb4 ,then drop the left hand over them1 in front of the right1 as above described1 with the fingers in their correct final position4 ,this position has been already described1 but ,i will state it again3 ,the near snaffle rein comes outside of the little finger1 the near curb rein between the little and third fingers1 the off curb rein between the third and second fingers1 the off snaffle rein between the first and second fingers2 the ends of the reins come up through the hand and fall to the right between the thumb and forefinger4 ,the reins should be adjusted to their proper length with the right hand so as to feel the horse's mouth lightly before the fingers of the left hand are closed on them4 ,with regard to the ends of the reins1 it is equally correct to have all four reins one upon the other1 and then put the thumb on top of them all1 or to put the thumb on top of the snaffle reins and have the curb reins pass to the right of the thumb1 if one is riding on the snaffle2 or1 if one is riding on the curb1 to have the thumb resting on the curb reins and the snaffle reins passing to the right of the thumb4 ,the reins should be properly arranged in the left hand1 as ,i have described1 at the start1 when the body and the elbow are in their correct positions1 and they should be held at this same length at all times and not allowed to slip through the fingers4 ,they should be held by pressing the edges of the reins1 with the fingers1 against the cushion of the hand1 and not by squeezing the flat surfaces of the reins between the fingers4 ,the principal reason why beginners let the reins slip through their fingers is that they do not hold the reins by the edges4 ,illustration3 ,,correct ,,position ,,of ,,reins #a--,off snaffle rein4 #b--,off curb rein4 #c--,near curb rein4 #d--,near snaffle rein4 ,the whip1 crop1 or stick1 whichever may be carried1 belongs in the right hand1 but the whip and stick are both carried with the handle up and the small end pointing downward whereas the crop should always be carried with the handle downward and the loop end upward4 ,the reason for this is1 probably1 because in ,england crops which have handles are used for opening the latches of gates1 and1 when held in this position1 the handle can be quickly used for this purpose without the crop being shifted4 ,another reason is because1 when used in the hunting field with the lash1 the lash can be got out quickly1 and the crop will be in position for use at a moment's notice4 ,whichever of the three1 whip1 stick1 or crop1 may be carried1 hold it lightly in the palm between the thumb and first finger of the right hand4 ,i have already described the position of the reins in the left hand4 ,the next thing to be considered is the position of the left hand itself when holding the reins4 ,as ,i have said1 the forearm must be horizontal4 ,the hand must be held with the knuckles nearly vertical1 and not horizontal1 as many hold it4 ,the hand must be bent in toward the body at the wrist1 and the wrist must be flexible so as to give slightly with the movement of the horse's head4 ,nearly all beginners have great difficulty in remembering to keep the wrist bent1 as they are apt to straighten it out so as to give a direct tug on the horse's mouth with their arm1 and so lose the spring which the supple wrist would give them4 ,the right hand should be held symmetrically with the left1 bent in at the wrist in the same way1 and with the knuckles at about the same angle4 ,for beginners1 it is better1 until they have acquired fairly good 8hands10 to hold the bight of all four reins in the right hand between the thumb and forefinger1 about an inch from the left hand and just below the whip1 the bight of all four reins passing through the right hand and out under the little finger4 ,this keeps the right hand in position ready for an emergency1 but it does not allow it to interfere with the even pressure and 8feel0 which the left hand has on the horse's mouth1 with both the near and off reins4 ,remember that1 under normal circumstances1 all four reins must be held firmly in the left hand1 and that there must be an exactly even pressure on the horse's mouth on both sides1 and that1 in order to keep the reins so and prevent them from slipping1 they must be held by the edges between the second joints of the fingers and the cushion of the hand1 and must also be firmly pressed down between the thumb and forefinger4 ,the right hand should1 as it were1 be kept in reserve and used as circumstances may require4 ,for instance1 if the horse is thoroughly bridlewise1 he will have been trained to turn to the left by passing the left hand to the left1 at the same time slightly turning it on the upper arm as a pivot1 thus touching the off side of the horse's neck with the off reins2 similarly1 to turn to the right by carrying the left hand to the right1 and turning it to the right on the upper arm as a pivot1 thus bearing the near reins against the near side of the horse's neck4 ,many saddle-horses1 however1 have not been trained to this1 so they have to be turned in riding very much as in driving2 that is1 by pulling the rein of the side toward which they are to turn4 ,now1 with a horse which has an exceptionally sensitive mouth1 and a rider with exceptionally good hands1 this can be done by a mere turn of the left wrist2 but if the horse has not a sensitive mouth1 or the rider has not very good hands1 the right hand must be called into assistance4 ,in such a case turning the horse to the right is very simply accomplished by taking the off reins in the right hand a few inches in front of the left 7which1 however1 must retain its grasp of all the reins without shifting71 separated by the little finger1 the two reins passing out between the thumb and forefinger4 ,then1 by a slight pressure of the right hand1 bring the horse's head around to the right4 ,turning to the left1 however1 is not done by taking up the near reins in the right hand1 as in driving1 but by taking the off reins in the right hand just as if one were going to turn to the right1 but without any pull on the off reins4 ,then letting the off reins slip slightly through the fingers of the left hand1 and pulling the near reins with the left hand enough to make the horse turn1 and as soon as the turn is accomplished1 restoring the reins to the former position in the left hand4 ,another purpose for which the right hand must be always available is for shortening the reins4 ,this should be done by grasping the bight or ends of all four reins together in the right hand1 behind the left1 between the thumb and forefinger1 passing through the hand and out by the little finger1 and slipping the left hand up on the reins as much as may be needed4 ,if1 however1 more strength is required than can be had from the left arm only1 the right hand should be placed on all four reins in front of the left hand1 which1 of course1 will have to be turned so as to bring the knuckles horizontal1 the reins occupying the same position in the right hand as in the left1 only reversed2 that is1 the off snaffle coming outside the little finger1 and the near snaffle between the first and second fingers1 etc4 ,the fingers of the right hand are then closed upon the reins and the horse pulled in with all the strength of both arms4 ,i do not mean to imply for a moment that any horse can be pulled up or stopped by a steady pull on the reins1 for no woman is strong enough to stop a horse who is determined to run1 by pitting her strength against his4 ,there must be a 8give and take10 and even in stopping a runaway1 alternately giving him his head and then pulling him in1 is far more effective than a steady pull2 nor should a horse ever be stopped or pulled up with a jerk unless to avoid running over a child or in some other emergency4 ,to stop a horse or make him slow down1 he should first be given his head slightly by carrying the hand forward1 and then pulled up gradually4 ,if you start to pull a horse with a violent jerk you will immediately excite his resentment and make him pull against you with all his strength1 and you will end in giving him a hard mouth and developing a 8puller40 ,another purpose for which the right hand should be in readiness is to tighten the curb reins4 ,if the horse is being ridden1 as he usually will be1 either with the pressure on all four reins about even or with the curb reins somewhat looser than the snaffle1 and he starts to pull1 or there is some other occasion for using the curb1 the right hand may be brought over in front of the left and the curb reins taken in the right from two to six inches in front of the left hand1 separated by the third finger1 passing out between the thumb and forefinger4 ,the curb can then be tightened with the right hand without affecting the snaffle1 and the horse made to slow down or stop1 as may be required4 ,great care1 however1 should be taken by beginners not to attempt to do this1 as they would be almost certain to put far too great pressure on the curb1 might cause the horse to rear1 and would be very apt to make him start to run1 through obstinacy4 ,i would1 therefore1 never advise a beginner to attempt to take up the curb reins in this way unless some emergency made it imperative4 ,some riders with very light hands1 when riding very powerful horses with rather hard mouths1 may find it desirable to ride on the curb instead of on the snaffle4 ,in such case there are two positions which may be taken4 ,one is to put the curb reins in the position of the snaffle reins and vice versa1 and then leave the snaffle reins somewhat looser than the curb4 ,this is a method much used with the ,kentucky type of saddle-horse and with horses which have been broken to the use of the curb only1 as are nearly all army horses4 ,another way of holding the reins when riding on the curb is to separate the two curb reins with the little finger of the left hand and the two snaffle reins with the middle finger4 ,the reins are then held in the army fashion4 ,some horses have been broken to be ridden in this way1 and the rider may find it easier with them4 ,neither of these last two ways of holding the reins of which ,i have spoken should be attempted by beginners as they will only confuse them4 ,illustration3 ,,reversing ,,position ,,of ,,curb ,,and ,,snaffle ,,reins #a--,off curb rein4 #b--,off snaffle rein4 #c--,near curb rein4 #d--,near snaffle rein4 ,another point which is very often neglected is that the reins must not be twisted between the bridle and their ends4 ,be sure that they are kept straight at all times1 as it looks very badly to see them twisted either on the neck or in the bight of the reins1 and if the bight is twisted1 one is very apt to mix the reins when changing them4 ,with regard to holding the reins in both hands1 this should only be done by beginners1 and in the hunting field1 and with absolutely green horses who have to have their heads pulled around in order to turn them4 ,i shall discuss the position of the hands in the hunting field in the chapter on hunting1 and what ,i have said about turning horses who are not bridlewise covers all that needs to be said about green horses4 ,beginners should not use the curb reins at all1 and should hold one snaffle rein in each hand1 the snaffle reins being held in the position of the near snaffle rein in the left hand1 and the off snaffle rein in the right hand2 that is1 passing outside of the little finger up through the hand and held between the thumb and forefinger4 ,a beginner1 particularly if she has ever driven1 will naturally start to take a rein in each hand in the driving position1 that is1 separated by the thumb and forefinger and coming out under the little finger4 ,this position is never taken in riding4 ,the object of taking a rein in each hand is to accustom the fingers to the reins1 and the rider to holding the right hand parallel with the left4 ,keeping the right hand in a corresponding position to that of the left not only looks smart and neat1 but it helps to keep the right shoulder in place4 ,of course1 in the side-saddle1 the tendency of all beginners is to carry the right shoulder forward and higher than the left4 ,if the right forearm is held symmetrically with the left forearm1 the right shoulder cannot be out of place4 ,illustration3 ,,correct ,,position ,,for ,,park ,,riding ,right hand holding reins lightly and riding stick ,illustration3 ,,reins ,,in ,,both ,,hands ,position for beginner ,reins in same position in each hand ,in riding astride beginners should also hold a rein in each hand1 as holding the reins in the left hand only tends to pull the left shoulder forward and out of place4 ,so when riding astride1 the symmetrical position of the right hand and arm with the left brings the right shoulder forward and keeps the shoulders square4 ,i have mentioned above the reasons for sometimes reversing the positions of the curb and snaffle4 ,another case where this may properly be done is where a running martingale is used4 ,next to balance1 light hands are the most important attribute of a good rider4 ,they really are a gift1 like an ear for music1 or a delicate sense of touch1 or acute vision1 and go with a certain nervous and sensitive temperament4 ,some riders have naturally light hands and scarcely need any instruction with regard to them4 ,with them the feeling of the horse's mouth is instinctive4 ,light hands1 however1 can1 to a great extent1 be cultivated1 and there is no excuse for any experienced rider having heavy hands4 ,women are more apt to have light hands than men1 and while men may rely on strength to control a horse1 and can control many horses by sheer brute force1 women very seldom have sufficient physical strength to do this4 ,women should seek 8the strength of effect and not the effect of strength40 ,it is hard to define the term 8light hands40 ,if ,i might attempt a definition1 ,i would say that the hands serve as a means of communication between the horse's and the rider's mind1 so that the rider1 through the touch of the horse's mouth1 communicated through the reins and hands1 knows what is in the horse's mind and so can make the horse's mind instantly respond to the rider's will1 and thus the rider and horse are at all times in sympathy1 and the horse acting with1 and not against1 his rider1 and the rider with1 and not against1 her horse4 ,lightness does not in any way denote weakness1 for1 behind the light touch1 there must always be firmness1 decision1 and strength4 ,nor does lightness mean a touch so vague that it produces upon the horse's mind an impression of vacillation4 ,in riding it is most important for the rider1 once she has made up her mind what to make the horse do1 to make the horse do that thing and not allow him to do anything else4 ,one might1 indeed1 say that lightness of hands is very closely akin to tact and that it is a means of inducing a horse to adopt as his own the will of his rider4 ,i spoke a moment ago of strength4 ,by this ,i mean firmness and not brute force4 ,if a rider is fortunate enough to be gifted with lightness1 she will be able to control her horse by a spirit of love instead of adopting the brutal method of controlling him by fear and having him prepared at every moment to obtain his revenge upon his rider1 as a horse that has been treated brutally is almost certain to do when he has the opportunity4 ,coupled with the lightness of hands should be fearlessness in the mind of the rider1 and the horse must know both that the rider is fearless and that she trusts him4 ,if the rider shows a lack of confidence in the horse and acts as if she were suspicious of him1 the horse will soon know it1 and will do exactly what the rider fears that he will4 ,a horse has a mind which very readily receives impressions from the rider's mind4 ,for instance1 a rider expects a horse to shy at some object2 she will unconsciously impart that thought into the horse's mind and the horse is almost certain to shy2 but if she will say to herself1 8there is nothing to shy at1 we will simply go quietly by this02 if she does not interfere with the reins and gives the horse absolutely no sign that she has any thought of shying in her mind1 the horse will1 nine times out of ten1 if not ten times1 pass by the object without showing the slightest alarm4 ,it is usually the rider that shies and not the horse4 ,some riders make the great mistake of first thinking that a horse is going to shy at some object1 then forcing him1 by whip and spur1 to go up to that object and pass it4 ,they will thus bring the horse to a state of the most pitiable excitement and panic1 and1 while they may succeed1 they may be quite sure that the next time he sees that object1 or goes by the same place1 he will be far more afraid1 for he will dread not only the object itself1 but a repetition of the whipping and spurring4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,mounting--,,side-,,saddle ,there are two ways of mounting with the side-saddle--from the ground and from the block4 ,the former method is preferable1 as a block is seldom available1 and a woman should always be able to mount from the ground with or without assistance4 ,to mount from the ground without assistance1 stand at the horse's near side1 facing the saddle4 ,lengthen the leather to the last hole1 take up the reins in the left hand and then place it on the upper pommel4 ,place the left foot in the stirrup1 assisting with the right hand if necessary1 then grasp the cantle with the right hand and spring from the right foot1 pulling yourself up with both arms1 and throw the body into the saddle1 letting go with the right hand just as you reach the saddle4 ,then raise the right knee and place it over the pommel1 shorten the leather to its proper length1 adjust the skirt1 and place the loops over the feet4 ,while this is easy for a tall woman with a pony1 it is very difficult for a short woman with a large horse1 so in that case the best thing to do is to stand your horse downhill or in a ditch1 or to stand yourself on a stone or a fence--if one is available4 ,illustration3 ,,mounting ,,without ,,assistance ,left foot in stirrup1 right hand grasping cantle ,to mount with assistance1 the leather being left at its proper length1 stand opposite the cantle1 facing to the front1 place your left foot in the man's right hand or in both his hands clasped1 then at an agreed signal spring from the right foot and have him throw you1 but not too high1 into the saddle1 then place the right knee over the pommel and the left foot in the stirrup4 ,illustration3 ,,mounting ,,with ,,assistance ,groom holding the reins in his left hand and assisting with right hand only ,if your horse is nervous or does not stand well1 it is better for the man who is assisting you to hold the horse's reins in his left hand and lift you with his right hand only1 or you can take the reins in your left hand and place it on the pommel and your right hand on the cantle1 and then let the man lift you with both hands4 ,illustration3 ,,mounted ,in mounting from the block1 the groom stands by the horse's head and holds him2 you then sit on the saddle1 place your right knee over the pommel and your left foot in the stirrup4 ,the groom should adjust the straps1 or you may adjust them yourself1 and you should then take the reins in the left hand4 ,never1 under any circumstances1 when mounting from the block1 put your foot in the stirrup before you are in the saddle1 as1 if the horse should start1 you would lose your balance and have a fall4 ,illustration3 ,,dismounting ,,with ,,assistance ,in dismounting1 with or without assistance1 the first thing to do is to take the straps off and clear the left foot from the stirrup1 then throw the right leg clear of the pommel2 gather the reins in the right hand and place it on the pommel1 then spring lightly to the ground4 ,if any one is assisting you1 you should place your left hand on his shoulder4 ,it is most important to clear the stirrup first1 as otherwise1 with your right knee clear of the pommel1 you might lose your balance and be dragged4 ,illustration3 ,,dismounting ,,without ,,assistance ,,chapter ,,iv ,,riding ,,astride ,in these days of 8advanced0 ideas the advisability of women aping men in yet another way1 by riding astride1 is the subject of general discussion4 ,many 8authorities0 upon riding--8mere men10 it is needless to say--speak with enthusiasm of the day when all women will ride in this1 for most of them1 ungainly and unbecoming fashion4 ,personally1 ,i deplore this tendency and believe that it is a mere passing fad and that1 except under peculiar conditions which ,i shall mention1 most women ride best and look best in the side-saddle4 ,the average woman is not built for cross-saddle riding2 her legs from the knee up are too short2 her thighs too thick2 her hips too big1 and she is cushioned too high to enable her to keep close down with the required firmness on the saddle4 ,the side-saddle certainly insures a stronger seat1 especially in all cases of pitching forward1 as1 for instance1 with a stumbling horse or a kicking one1 or on landing after a jump4 ,with safety skirts and safety stirrups the danger from dragging is obviated and this1 the only serious danger in the use of the side-saddle1 is more than offset in my judgment by the great danger of a woman being thrown because of her insecure seat in a man's saddle4 ,many claim that the cross-saddle is safer than the side-saddle in case of a rearing horse falling over backward4 ,i do not agree with this1 for1 in the first place1 many good men riders have suffered shocking accidents in this way and1 when riding in the cross-saddle1 unless the rider succeeds in throwing himself clear from the horse1 he is almost sure to have one leg broken4 ,on the other hand1 with a side-saddle1 if the horse comes down on his off side1 there is no danger of a broken leg1 and when the horse starts to rear a woman can usually make him fall on the off side by pulling his head to that side with all her strength1 so that on this point the ease of clearing oneself from a cross-saddle is more than offset by the ability to throw the horse with safety and make him fall on the off side4 ,up to the age of eleven or twelve it is a good plan for a young girl to learn to ride astride and so acquire balance and confidence1 but if she is to use the side-saddle eventually she should certainly begin to use it at the age of twelve1 and ,i would advise beginning as early as eleven4 ,if she begins on the cross-saddle and acquires the knack at this early age1 it will be easier for her to take it up again on occasion later in life1 and1 of course1 the advantages which come from learning to ride without a saddle can best be acquired astride1 though they may be acquired with a pommel and leaping horn on a surcingle4 ,illustration3 ,,correct ,,costume ,,for ,,young ,,girls ,,riding ,,astride ,in riding1 women are very generally accompanied by men1 and there are few occasions when a woman has it in her power to look better--or worse--than when in the saddle4 ,it is only those women who are built like men and very young girls who look at all well astride4 ,a woman with merely a normally developed figure looks both ridiculous and immodest in this position1 and in an ,english saddle thoroughly ill at ease4 ,illustration3 ,,correct ,,position ,,for ,,riding ,,astride ,much as ,i disapprove of most women using the cross-saddle1 yet1 as this book is intended to be a somewhat complete treatise on riding for women1 and as many women insist on using the cross-saddle1 and as in some parts of the ,west1 and in roughing it1 riding must be astride if at all1 ,i shall make a few suggestions about the way in which a woman can best attempt to do this1 though it is something in which she can rarely1 if ever1 attain perfection4 ,the saddle for cross riding generally used by women in the ,east is the same as a man's1 although some makers are offering a cross-saddle especially adapted for women 7see illustration1 page #aee74 ,these saddles are built more on the lines of an army saddle1 having more dip and a straighter flap than those for men4 ,many men1 and nearly all hunting men and polo players1 use plain flap saddles2 that is1 without rolls and cut well forward so as to give plenty of room for the knees 7see illustration1 page #aee74 ,this type of saddle enables the rider to have his knees well up and forward and gives him a very firm seat for jumping4 ,few women1 however1 are long enough in the legs from the knee up to take this seat1 so most women will find a roll flap saddle more comfortable4 ,in the ,west the ,mexican type of saddle is generally used4 ,this saddle has a high pommel1 or even a high horn in front and a very high cantle serving as a back rest1 making what is practically a 8dished out0 seat1 far better suited to a woman's conformation than the ,english saddle4 ,the ,mexican type of saddle1 however1 is not adapted to a horse with a square trot1 but only to the loping or fox trotting horses of the ,west4 ,the reason for this is that in posting or rising to the trot1 the knees should be quite well up and forward1 and the ,mexican saddle is so built that in it one cannot take this position4 ,there are two distinct types of seats recognized in this country which may be called1 for distinction1 the military and park seats2 the former is the correct seat for the saddle of the ,mexican type4 ,in this seat the rider sits upright with the legs almost straight1 the knees scarcely bent1 and the ball of the foot resting on the iron1 with the leather very long4 ,in fact1 many military riders have their legs perfectly straight and their toes down4 ,this seat is comfortable only on the 8five-gaited0 horses2 that is1 horses whose gaits are the single foot1 the lope1 the canter1 the pace1 but whose trot1 instead of being the smart square trot of the ,eastern park hack1 is more of a running walk and is known as the 8fox trot40 ,with a horse that has a true1 square trot1 it will be found1 as ,i have said1 that posting is both difficult and tiring with this military seat and it is ill adapted for jumping anything over two feet in height4 ,in the military seat the trot is taken up from the ankles1 so that the knees are slipping up and down1 while in the park seat posting or rising is done from the knees1 which should remain in the same position at all times4 ,illustration3 ,,the 8,,cowboy0 ,,western ,,costume ,,and ,,saddle ,the park seat looks much smarter than the other1 and suits the gaits of the types of horses used in the ,east far better and is the proper seat for the ,english or hunting saddle4 ,in this seat the stirrups are considerably shorter and the knees are well bent and carried in front of the leathers4 ,the feet may be carried 8home0 in the irons or resting on the ball of the foot1 as preferred4 ,for hunting1 the former is the position used by almost all men and equally advisable for women4 ,many of the best riders ride with their feet 8home0 at all times because1 with most saddles1 particularly if the rider has long legs1 with the feet 8home0 the lower leg is advanced about six inches and1 as it should be1 carried vertically4 ,this brings the knee well in front of the leathers4 ,this position gives the correct hunting seat and that seat is entirely correct for park riding4 ,personally1 ,i prefer riding with the feet 8home0 at all times4 ,to acquire a firm and balanced seat in riding astride1 by far the best method for a child is to take the first lessons on a blanket and surcingle without stirrups1 or on a felt pad with detachable wooden stirrups4 ,the seat must be close and the rider should rely on balance and not on the grip of the knees1 except in jumping or in emergencies1 such as shying or bucking4 ,the principle1 whether with or without a saddle1 is to balance at all times1 with an intuition when to grip4 ,while women cannot be expected to go through this preliminary course without saddle or stirrups1 it is unquestionably the best way to teach boys1 and ,i see no reason why girls should not go through it as well4 ,the great advantage of beginning without stirrups is that it teaches a close seat at the start4 ,many riders who have not learned by riding at first without saddle and stirrups acquire the habit of relying altogether too much on the stirrups to keep their seats4 ,in doing this their muscles are kept rigid1 they become stiff and awkward1 and they rely upon grip and strength1 when they should rely on ease and balance4 ,this fault is especially common with women1 probably because they have been used to the support of the pommel and leaping horn of the side-saddle4 ,in riding bareback1 or on a blanket1 the rider1 if she is to retain her seat at all1 must do so by acquiring a close seat1 while in the saddle she can rely more on the stirrups4 ,illustration3 ,,mounting ,,english ,,fashion ,first position1 right hand on cantle4 ,note that the left hand is grasping the mane instead of the pommel ,illustration3 ,,mounting ,,english ,,fashion 7,,another ,,way7 ,first position1 left hand grasps mane instead of resting on pommel1 and right hand on pommel instead of cantle4 ,this position is good with a restive horse ,there are two recognized methods of mounting--the 8army0 and the 8,english40 ,the latter is generally adopted in the ,east1 but there is much to be said in favor of the former1 even with the ,english saddle1 while it is far the better method with the ,mexican or army saddle4 ,the ,english method is this3 ,the rider stands on the near side1 facing the saddle4 ,the reins are gathered in the left hand in their proper position1 as described in the chapter on 8,seats and ,hands10 and are drawn tight enough to feel the horse's mouth lightly4 ,the pommel is then grasped in the left hand4 ,the left foot is placed in the iron1 assisted by the right hand1 if needed4 ,the cantle is then grasped in the right hand and the rider springs from the right foot assisted by the pull of the arms4 ,the right leg is swung over the cantle and into position on the off side of the saddle1 while at the same time the right hand is swung forward and out of the way of the leg4 ,illustration3 ,,mounting ,,military ,,fashion ,first position1 right hand on pommel1 left hand grasping mane4 ,this is practically the same as shown on page #dg ,illustration3 ,,mounting ,,either ,,fashion ,second position1 body balanced by throwing weight on both arms ,the army method is this3 ,the rider stands at the horse's near shoulder1 facing toward the pommel4 ,the snaffle reins only are gathered in the right hand so as to feel the horse's mouth lightly4 ,the off rein outside the little finger1 the near rein between the first and the second fingers1 and the bight of the reins passing between the thumb and the forefinger and falling on the near side of the horse so as not to be caught in the right leg4 ,the pommel is then grasped with the right hand4 ,the left foot is placed in the iron assisted by the left hand1 if needed4 ,a lock of the mane from six to twelve inches above the withers is then grasped in the left hand and the rider springs from the right foot assisted by the pull of both arms4 ,the right leg is swung over the cantle and into position on the off side1 the foot placed in the stirrup1 and then the snaffle reins are passed into the left hand in their proper position and the curb reins are taken up in the right hand and placed in their proper position in the left4 ,this army method of mounting is claimed to be1 and ,i am inclined to think it is1 safer than the other1 especially with a restive or kicking horse4 ,it appears to give the rider a firmer hold while in the act of mounting4 ,the rider's weight is so far forward that it is very difficult for the horse to rear1 and the rider1 before placing his foot in the stirrup1 stands so far to the front that he is out of the reach of the horse's kick4 ,when mounting in the ,english fashion1 if the horse rears before the rider has swung his leg over1 there is quite serious danger of an accident1 and a minor point is that1 unless the saddle is tightly girthed1 it is very much less liable to slip when mounting in the army fashion1 as a large part of the weight of the rider is supported by the horse's mane4 ,this army method of mounting is in general use in the ,west1 and of course in the ,american army1 and many men with army training habitually use it with the ,english saddle4 ,in order to adjust the leathers to the proper length before mounting1 most women will find1 as most men do1 that the stirrup from the tread of the iron to the extremity of the leather should be the length of the whole arm extended1 and this may readily be measured by placing the tips of the fingers on the stirrup bar1 so that the base of the iron rests against the armpit4 ,after mounting1 to adjust the length of the stirrups1 clear the feet from the irons and straighten the legs so that they fall naturally4 ,the tread of the iron should then be made to come just at the ankle joint1 and the stirrups will then be the right length when the feet are carried 8home40 ,illustration3 ,,dismounting ,right leg over pommel1 left foot clear ,few1 however1 can dismount in this fashion without shifting the reins ,in dismounting1 whichever method you adopt1 be sure to clear the left foot from the stirrup as well as the right foot before you start4 ,there are two methods in vogue3 the first is to clear both feet from the stirrups and then throw the right leg over the horse's head1 turning the body on the saddle to the left and dropping the reins for a moment as the right leg goes over1 and gathering them again in the right hand as soon as it has cleared the horse's neck2 then spring off the horse to the ground1 steadying the body with the right hand on the horse's shoulder and throwing the body well clear of the horse4 ,this is a very good way1 unless your horse is nervous or apt to rear4 ,the other way is to throw both feet clear of the stirrups1 then gather the reins in the right hand and place it on the pommel4 ,place the left hand on the horse's neck and throw the body entirely clear of the horse1 the right leg passing over the horse's quarters4 ,illustration3 ,,dismounting ,right leg over cantle1 left foot clear ,this method is safer than the last ,many riders step off the horse2 that is1 they keep the left foot in the stirrup1 disengage the right foot1 throw the right leg around the horse's quarters1 then step down in the reverse of the way in which they mount4 ,this1 however1 is rather dangerous1 for1 if the horse should start when you are in the act of dismounting1 you are in a position where there is almost no control and you are likely to have an accident through being dragged with the left foot in the stirrup4 ,it goes without saying that no reliance whatever must be placed on the reins for keeping the seat4 ,many beginners1 and even some experienced riders who should know better1 whenever they feel themselves losing their balance1 hang on by their reins4 ,this invariably results in giving the horse a hard mouth1 and is very dangerous with a spirited horse or one whose mouth has not been spoiled by this practice1 as it is almost sure to make him rear1 which causes the inexperienced rider to lose her seat completely4 ,it is the principal cause of the hard mouth of the typical 8riding-school horse40 ,no rider with good hands will ever hang on by the reins1 and in nearly every case in my experience it has been the pulling rider and not the pulling horse4 ,the secret of the close seat in the position astride is to turn the legs inward from the thigh joints so as to open the legs to their utmost capacity4 ,this brings the rider's body in the closest possible contact with the horse's back and brings the feet parallel1 or nearly so1 to the horse's body1 and puts the knees and thighs in the best position for gripping when necessary4 ,there is a great deal of knack about this4 ,it is not difficult to put one's legs in this position at a walk1 but it is difficult to keep them so while the horse is trotting or cantering1 without having the muscles rigid1 whereas the leg should be kept in this position with all the thigh muscles completely relaxed1 especially those underneath the seat4 ,while in gripping it is necessary to contract the muscles on the upper inner sides of the thighs1 these are the only thigh muscles which should be contracted4 ,the contracting of the other thigh muscles tends to throw the rider out of her seat4 ,this seat can certainly be acquired by practice and1 once acquired1 it becomes second nature4 ,the majority of riders and nearly all women1 instead of turning the legs inward from the thigh joints1 turn their knees out and grip with the calves of their legs1 with all their thigh muscles rigid4 ,obviously1 as the only joint in the leg on which the leg can rotate is the thigh joint1 turning the knee out twists the whole leg the wrong way4 ,this results in the large muscles of the thigh being contracted and in the rider sitting on them1 instead of sitting down close to the saddle4 ,the difficulty is that1 with a beginner1 it seems natural to turn the knees out and grip the horse with the calves1 but it is impossible to acquire a firm seat in this way1 and the position is not only awkward and insecure but very tiring4 ,i cannot say too often that the seat must be acquired by balance and all the muscles of the legs and of the body and arms must be relaxed4 ,if the leg muscles are rigid and the legs are not turned inward from the thigh joints1 the rider will be lifted off the saddle by the contraction of the muscles of the thigh and will not be in balance4 ,dependence will then be placed on gripping1 and this gripping will be done with the calves instead of the knees4 ,a sure indication that the legs are thus held is when the feet are turned outward1 for they cannot be unless the whole leg from the thigh joints is so turned4 ,the legs should be kept well forward1 with the knees in front of the leathers1 and the legs from the knees down vertical and hanging naturally4 ,at the canter the legs from the knees down should be carried forward rather than back4 ,the body should be well back in the saddle about two inches in front of the cantle and resting comfortably4 ,most beginners1 although they may take this seat while the horse is standing or at a walk1 lose it the moment he takes up a trot4 ,they then begin to lose their seats by leaning too far forward1 contracting the leg muscles and bringing their legs back4 ,this is chiefly the result of fear1 of self-consciousness1 and of 8trying too hard40 ,it is one of the results of the worst fault of nearly every beginner1 that of keeping the muscles rigid all the time and trying to hold on by legs1 pommel1 reins1 and mane instead of merely sitting on in a comfortable position and relying on balance4 ,with regard to playing polo1 many women have the idea that they can only play polo in a man's saddle4 ,my opinion1 based on my own experience and the experience of many of my friends1 is directly to the contrary4 ,many women play polo1 and play it very well1 in a side-saddle1 and ,i do not know any reason why a woman cannot play at least as well riding in a side-saddle as riding astride4 ,she certainly has a more secure seat in the side-saddle1 and the first awkwardness of the back-hand stroke in this position being overcome1 all the other strokes are quite as easy1 and it is so much easier to ride another player off when one is in the side-saddle that all the women on both teams should ride either in the side-saddle or in the man's saddle in order to make the game fair4 ,,chapter ,v ,,hunting ,so many books have been written on 8,hunting0 and the subject so exhaustively treated1 that ,i shall only attempt to discuss under this head a few points of particular interest to women4 ,when a woman hunts she enters a masculine field of sport1 and in the hunting-field she is meeting men on their own ground and on even terms4 ,in the hunting-field1 therefore1 a woman must expect to take her chances with the men1 and she is not entitled to that courtesy and deference which she may expect on other occasions4 ,illustration3 ,,over ,,post ,,and ,,rail ,for example1 if a woman loses her hat or stirrup1 she should not expect any man to pick it up for her or to pay her the slightest attention4 ,again1 if a woman and a man are both going at the same fence1 she should not expect him to pull up and allow her to go over first or to treat her otherwise than as he would another man4 ,it is not field etiquette4 ,so1 if a woman has a tumble and is not disabled1 she need not expect the men to give up the hunt to help her into the saddle4 ,they are not supposed to do anything of the kind4 ,it follows1 therefore1 that if1 for example1 a woman and a man are going at the same panel and the man has the right of way1 the woman should yield to him and follow him over4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,high ,,jumper ,,and ,,hunter 7,,taconite7 ,the following are points of hunting etiquette which must always be borne in mind2 indeed1 ,i may almost say that they are rules which must be strictly observed3 ,two riders should never go at the same panel at the same time4 ,while it is quite right for two or more riders to go at the same fence at the same time1 it is not only against etiquette1 but quite dangerous1 for two to go at the same panel4 ,so in going at a single panel--where1 for example1 there are trees or wire on both sides1 or for any other reason there is only one panel in the fence which can be jumped1 or where it is what is termed in hunting a 8trappy place10 so that the field have to go over it one after the other--if your horse refuses you should not put him at it again1 but turn him away from the panel and then take your turn as soon as you have a chance to swing in2 otherwise you not only violate hunting etiquette1 but you are in great danger of causing an accident to the rider who is immediately behind you4 ,moreover1 the whole field should not be held up while your horse is trying it again4 ,at a check all the field should1 if near the hounds1 stand still and keep quiet1 for noise and motion disturb the hounds when they are in the act of picking up the scent4 ,the type of hunter suitable for a woman is described in ,chapter ,x--8,the ,saddle ,horse40 ,no woman should go into the hunting-field at all unless she is a thoroughly experienced rider and has complete confidence in herself4 ,even then she should not attempt to ride a green hunter until she has had years of hunting experience4 ,she should ride a qualified hunter and1 however experienced she may be1 she should bear in mind that1 in all probability1 the horse knows how to take the jumps better than she does4 ,the maxim1 8,let your mount have his head while you keep your own10 will carry a woman safely and surely to the finish4 ,illustration3 ,,giving ,,him ,,his ,,head ,,over ,a ,,jump 7,,heatherbloom7 ,as a general rule1 unless a woman knows her mount thoroughly and has ridden him many times1 she should not attempt to help him over his jumps4 ,every horse has an individual style of jumping1 and it is nearly always best to develop his own natural style and not to attempt to make him jump in a way that is unnatural to him4 ,there are three quite different ways in which horses jump3 one by rushing1 one by taking the jump in the stride1 and the other by popping over4 ,one cannot say that any one of these styles is best1 for it all depends on the individual horse4 ,some horses do best in one way1 others in another2 and a horse who naturally rushes his jumps can hardly ever be trained to pop over them quietly1 and the horse who has jumped in his own natural style for years can jump far more safely in that style1 even if it be rushing1 than if his rider attempts to make him jump in any other style4 ,for a woman the best style of jumping is that of the hunter who swings along and takes his jumps in a steady stride1 and who is neither too fast nor too slow2 who is up with the hounds1 yet not on them4 ,what ,i am about to say with regard to the seat and hands in jumping applies to hunting in this country1 not in ,england1 for there the horses are very differently trained2 but in any case a woman should always find out how a horse has been trained before attempting to jump him4 ,illustration3 ,,positions ,,of ,,hands ,,in ,,hunting ,gathering reins before taking off ,giving him his head over a jump ,when in the field the best position in which to hold the reins is to take them in both hands1 the near snaffle and the near curb in the left hand in their usual position1 and the off curb and off snaffle in the right hand in their usual position1 the snaffle and curb in each hand being separated by the little finger4 ,the ends of the reins come through the right hand between the thumb and forefinger and the ends are gathered in a loop which passes between the second and third fingers of each hand4 ,while it is not necessary to hold the reins in this position all the time in the field1 it is the best position to hold them in when jumping4 ,when the reins are held in this position the elbows should be in their usual place1 unless you are riding a horse who needs to be given his head a little more1 in which case they must be a little to the front4 ,before coming to a jump the arms should not be stiff and the hands should not be held as far apart as the loop in the reins will allow4 ,illustration3 ,,side-,,saddle1 ,,position ,,rising1 ,,hands ,,and ,,body ,,forward ,the position of the body and legs is the same as ,i have described in chapter ,i1 but1 if anything1 the stirrups should be one or two holes shorter than for ordinary riding1 so as to have the left knee well bent and the leaping horn touching the left leg about five inches above the knee4 ,illustration3 ,,astride1 ,,position ,,of ,,legs1 ,,hands1 ,,and ,,body ,,at ,,top ,,of ,,jump ,when approaching a jump the horse should be kept well in hand and should be gathered about two strides before the take-off4 ,the moment he takes off he should be given his head by dropping the hands and carrying them well forward with the elbows nearly straight4 ,this will carry the body well forward1 and both body and hands should be kept in this position until the horse has cleared the jump1 when the body should be thrown back1 so that1 when the horse lands1 the rider's body will be well back in the position that it was before he took off4 ,in jumping1 the reins should never be long and must always be held at such length that if the horse touches or stumbles he can be pulled up1 and this can only be done by carrying the hands well forward in the way ,i have described4 ,they must be carried forward in order to give him his head1 for1 when a horse comes to a jump1 he throws his head very far forward so as to get his balance and exert his greatest strength4 ,what ,i have said above applies equally to a horse that rushes his jumps1 to one that takes them in his stride1 and to one that pops over4 ,it is particularly important to keep a rusher well in hand and not allow him to get such speed before the take-off that he cannot rise1 for1 in that case1 he is almost sure to crash into the fence and have a very bad fall4 ,while most horses need a good deal of speed to carry them over the jumps1 they should not be at their top speed1 for if they are they will not rise4 ,what ,i have said above applies to an ,american-trained hunter4 ,if you are riding an ,english-trained hunter1 the manner of approaching a jump is entirely different4 ,with them1 if you give them their head too much they stop1 so that in order to make them jump you have to lean back and pull on the reins4 ,if you attempt to jump an ,english-trained horse in the ,american way or an ,american-trained horse in the ,english way1 you are very apt to come to grief4 ,illustration3 ,,side-,,saddle1 ,,front ,,view1 ,,rising ,what has been said above with regard to the manner of jumping a fence applies equally to jumping a ditch or anything else4 ,the higher or the broader a jump1 the more important it is to take it correctly4 ,the difference between the various jumps is well expressed in the old maxim1 8,fast at water and ditches and slow at timber02 but there is so much timber and so few ditches and water jumps in this country1 and the pace is so fast1 that this advice is hard to follow4 ,when ,i say fast ,i refer to drag hunting4 ,illustration3 ,,coming ,,down ,in hunting1 a woman should be at either the front or back4 ,it is better for her not to be in with the field1 and she should regulate her pace according to the horse she is on4 ,if in a strange country1 the best thing for her to do is to follow some good rider who knows the country well rather than attempt to pick her way as she would in a country which she knew4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,good ,,type ,,of ,,hunter1 ,,bred ,,in ,,virginia 7,,philosopher7 ,in hunting it is most important to save your horse1 to keep him fresh for the jumps1 and not tire him out at the start4 ,don't ride to the 8gallery10 and if you have the choice between a sensational jump and a gap1 take the gap and save your hunter4 ,remember that you are not giving an exhibition of high jumping1 nor are you in a horse-race4 ,bear in mind that the master or huntsman sets the pace and that1 ordinarily1 particularly at the start1 he should be in the lead4 ,one should not pass the huntsman and1 above all things1 one should never ride up on the hounds4 ,if you come to a ploughed field1 go around it if you can1 and1 if you have to cross it1 spare your horse as much as possible4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,good ,,type ,,of ,,hunter1 ,,bred ,,in ,,the ,,north 7,,ripple7 ,somehow hunters go better for a woman than for a man4 ,perhaps it is because a woman's hands are lighter1 either from ignorance or knowledge1 or perhaps it is because a woman is not so insistent and is less domineering4 ,it is always better to let the hunter jump than to jump the hunter4 ,ordinarily a good hunter may be hunted at least twice in a week1 but so much depends on the country1 on the rider herself--to say nothing of the horse--that one cannot lay down any rule in regard to this4 ,between the hunts1 unless after an unusually stiff run1 a hunter may be larked a bit1 or driven to a light trap1 or walked for an hour or two4 ,this will ordinarily keep him in better condition than letting him stand in the stable4 ,in fact1 in my own experience1 ,i have known hunters that were hunted one day and driven to market the next1 and the market ,i have in mind was not at all near home4 ,many heavy-weight hunters are driven from time to time in the wheel1 and light-weight hunters in the lead1 both of a four and tandem4 ,indeed1 the leader of a tandem was originally a hunter4 ,so that a hunter may be a useful horse in the stable4 ,if one has a thoroughly reliable and seasoned hunter well up to one's weight1 he ought to be able1 barring accidents1 to carry one through the season1 unless one is attempting to hunt more than twice a week1 and there are few women in this country who are strong enough to do that4 ,illustration3 ,,correct ,,hunting ,,costume ,note the way the thong is carried ,in chapter ,,viii ,i have indicated the costume for the hunting-field1 but for convenience ,i will restate it here4 ,the correct appointments for the side-saddle are3 ,breeches of either dog-skin or buckskin or white cloth or of the same material as the habit4 ,the habit should be very dark gray1 almost black1 hunting cloth4 ,the collar should be of the colors of one's hunt4 ,the buttons should be black1 with the name1 design1 or monogram of the hunt in white or gold4 ,the correct coat is made without a seam in the middle of the back and with two vents at the side instead of one in the middle1 and is somewhat shorter than the habit coat that many women wear4 ,it may be made with five or three buttons1 according to the wearer's fancy1 but preferably with five4 ,an apron or half-apron skirt should be worn1 for safety's sake4 ,the boots must be of black calf4 ,patent-leather or russet boots are not correct in the field4 ,a silk hat is correct1 but a derby or a hunting hat1 such as ,i have described in chapter ,,viii1 may be worn1 and a hat guard1 such as ,i have there described1 is necessary4 ,either tan dog-skin or white buckskin gloves are correct4 ,an ,ascot stock should be worn with a plain bar gold pin4 ,attached to the two ,d's on the off-side of the saddle should be a sandwich case with a flask in it1 a sandwich in the case1 and a drink in the flask4 ,illustration3 ,,sandwich ,,cases ,,and ,,flasks ,a pair of white woollen gloves must be carried on the off-side under the flap4 ,in ,england a crop is always carried in the field4 ,in this country it is correct1 but a cutting whip may be carried instead4 ,if a crop is carried it may have a thong1 although1 personally1 ,i think it a great nuisance4 ,the saddle and bridle are the same as ,i have described in chapter ,,ix1 except that1 in the field side-saddle1 a woman should always use a breastplate1 and if she has a horse that cannot carry a breastplate she had better not hunt him4 ,as ,i state in chapter ,,ix1 a standing martingale should never be used in the field1 but a running martingale may be used if the horse requires it1 as is often the case4 ,for many horses the best bit to use in the field is a plain snaffle1 with very large rings1 so that the bit cannot be pulled through the horse's mouth4 ,the bridle should have a cavesson1 instead of the usual noseband4 ,other horses go better with what is known as a four-ring snaffle2 that is1 a snaffle which1 instead of having the cheek pieces attached to the snaffle rings1 has them attached to separate rings1 the rings to which the cheek pieces are attached and the snaffle rings being of the same size and both much larger than the rings of an ordinary snaffle-bit4 ,the reins only are attached to the snaffle rings in this form of bit4 ,this bit is more severe than a plain snaffle1 but much less severe than a curb4 ,generally speaking1 only riders with very light hands should use the curb bit in the hunting-field1 unless with horses having unusually hard mouths1 or 8pullers40 ,in going over the jumps it is very difficult to keep an even pressure on the curb1 and there is great danger of bringing up the horse too short on landing4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,the ,,show ,,ring ,in showing horses under saddle1 the mental and physical attributes of the rider have a greater scope than when riding under any other circumstances4 ,very frequently it is the rider who wins blue ribbons quite as much as the horse1 and at every horse show one sees horses lose the ribbons which they should win because of the crude way in which they are shown4 ,a woman1 in justice to herself as well as to her mount1 should not enter the show ring until she has become a thoroughly experienced and accomplished rider1 and however well a woman may ride in the park or in the field1 it by no means follows that she will be able to bring out the best points of a horse in the ring4 ,just as there are horses which win countless blue ribbons in shows1 but do not compare with other horses in the field or for general use1 so1 on the other hand1 there are women whose only delight is the show ring4 ,they hunt not1 neither do they hack4 ,the experience which has been gained in ordinary riding will not be of very great assistance in showing 8horse show horses02 that is1 horses which are kept only for show purposes4 ,these animals require most careful handling and a thorough comprehension of their individual characteristics4 ,illustration3 ,,lady',s ,,park ,,hack ,,type 7,,corinne7 ,the most important thing for a woman to bear in mind when showing horses is to be a cheerful loser4 ,a feeling of good-fellowship should pervade and the spirit of rivalry should not be carried to extremes4 ,do not think that you have been unfairly treated when you have not won1 or that the losing of the blue necessarily means that your horse is not good4 ,perhaps on this occasion he was not in his best form and perhaps at some other time1 before some other judge1 you will have better success4 ,one should always remember this3 that the names of the judges are published in advance1 and if one does not care to submit one's horse to their judgment1 one need not compete4 ,if1 by any unfortunate chance1 the judges should be changed after one's horses are entered1 there are two courses open--either to stay in and abide by their decision or withdraw one's horses and state the reason4 ,certainly1 after having voluntarily submitted the horses to their judgment1 it is most unsportsmanlike and contrary to the spirit of fair play to criticise the judges for their decision1 and it has been my experience1 after many years of showing horses1 that the judges are fair and impartial and do their best to render their decisions upon the merits of the horses4 ,one should also remember that the judges are usually men of very wide experience and thorough knowledge of the points of a horse1 and that they see many faults and blemishes which would escape the eye of the spectator4 ,a horse presents an altogether different appearance when seen from within the ring to that which he presents from without4 ,a horse that steps very high and has a flashy1 all-round way of going and looks from without like a winner1 may be seen from within the ring to have serious faults1 such as dishing1 paddling1 crossing forward1 or spreading too wide behind4 ,outsiders1 of course1 do not have the opportunity which the judges have to examine the horses critically1 and all they can base their judgment on is the general effect which a horse produces at a distance4 ,a horse which may appear to an outsider strong and bold may1 on closer inspection1 be seen to be coarse-necked and heavy in the shoulder or too big-boned for his class1 and a horse with truer action and better quality1 conforming to the standard of his class1 may easily be overlooked by the outsider4 ,to prepare a horse for the show ring requires weeks and even months of work4 ,he must be in perfect condition2 his coat must be fine1 his eye bright1 and he must be neither too fat nor too lean1 and his preparation must be so timed that1 on the day of the show1 he will be at the top of his condition4 ,all this involves good feed1 plenty of water1 and quiet1 systematic exercise4 ,it is most desirable that the person who is to show the horse should have ridden him several times before the show--the oftener the better--so that the horse and rider may know each other thoroughly1 and the rider may understand all there is to be known about that individual horse's training1 and how best to bring out his good points4 ,i consider it a bad plan for a horse to come into the ring too fresh4 ,some people seem to think that horses must be saved up for the show4 ,i think1 on the contrary1 that horses should be worked quietly and regularly for weeks before and during the show as well4 ,in the first place1 the music1 the noise of the crowd1 the strangeness of the scene1 and of such a gathering of people1 all tend to excite a horse and make him more difficult to control1 so that this excitement will give a horse all the appearance of spirit that is needed4 ,besides this1 a very fresh horse rarely shows good manners1 and in all ladies' classes manners count fifty per cent4 ,by manners ,i mean that on entering the show ring a horse must not look as though he were about to make even a small1 unharmful buck2 he must not be inclined to kick at the horse back of him nor to bite the horse in front of him2 he must not stop at the gate as he passes it1 nor must he try to edge in toward the centre of the ring while going around or when changing2 he must not hold his head either too high or too low2 he must not seem to be taking too much hold on the bit1 nor must it require three or four times around the ring to settle him down4 ,in other words1 he should not look as if he were being exercised rather than shown4 ,illustration3 ,,lady',s ,,park ,,hack 7,,marksman7 ,,as ,,he ,,was ,,when ,,first ,,shown ,in ,england they have a very good method of showing horses in the ring2 that is1 they start them at the canter1 then bring them down to the trot1 and lastly down to the walk4 ,in this way a horse is well settled down1 has lost most of his freshness and excitement1 and will usually walk quietly1 as he should4 ,here we start at the walk1 then take the trot1 and then the canter4 ,consequently many horses under the influence of the excitement of the music and noise will not walk or stop1 but jigjog and side step1 which condemns a lady's horse at once4 ,were these same horses ridden in the ,english way1 they would be quiet by the time they came to the walk and would win the blue ribbon which they deserve4 ,illustration3 ,,marksman ,a ,,year ,,later1 ,,after ,,he ,,had ,,been 8,,fined ,,down10 ,,when ,,he ,,won ,,the ,,championship ,it is particularly desirable that this ,english method of showing horses should be adopted1 now that the ,english type of riding horse--that is1 a thorough or three-quarter bred--is becoming so popular in this country4 ,this is just the kind of horse which will not start quietly at a walk in the show ring4 ,probably our way of showing came into vogue at a time when the ladies' saddle horse was a much quieter animal1 with less of the hot thoroughbred blood in him than he has now4 ,a horse should enter the ring at a quiet1 easy walk1 not inclined1 as ,i have said1 to jigjog4 ,he must keep in line--that is1 follow the horse in front of him--unless his natural gait is faster1 in which case you have the right to pass and can swing into line when you see a space4 ,he must take both the trot and the canter from the walk at command4 ,the latter is particularly important in the ring1 as it is not permitted to take the canter from the trot4 ,he must canter easily1 right or left1 according to the way he is going around the ring4 ,that is to say1 when going around to the right he must canter on the right foot1 and when going around to the left on the left foot4 ,parenthetically ,i may remark that the reason for this is that1 at the canter1 a horse's body is held diagonally to the line of the direction in which he is going and pointed in the opposite direction to the foot on which he is cantering2 that is to say1 when he is cantering right his body is pointed diagonally to the left and vice versa4 ,from this it follows that the foot on which he is cantering must be on the inside of the circle or turn which he is making4 ,otherwise he is almost sure to cross his legs and very apt to fall4 ,it is very important1 therefore1 that a horse should be able to change his foot at command4 ,it is always a strong point in a horse's favor if he changes readily from the right to the left in cantering1 and while a horse under the side-saddle should canter normally right1 he must canter left when circling or turning to the left4 ,for the ring a horse must stand quietly1 back and start readily1 and1 when the horses are lined up1 he must be willing to leave the line and to show perfect manners up and down the ring4 ,fortunately for the exhibitors1 the old-fashioned way of putting horses through figure eights and small circles has been done away with4 ,now1 all that is required in the ring is1 first1 walk your horse2 then1 at the command of the ring master1 change his gait to a trot1 and then1 at command1 walk again and then pass from the walk to the canter and continue cantering until the ring master tells you to stop1 and1 of course1 make such changes of direction as he indicates4 ,then the horses which are selected to stay in the ring are lined up and the others are given the gate4 ,next1 if the judges so desire1 each of the horses lined up is put through his paces4 ,then the judges1 after a detailed examination of each of the selected horses1 award the ribbons--blue for first1 red second1 yellow third1 and white fourth4 ,there are many important things to remember while riding in the show ring4 ,the most important is to keep yourself and your horse under quiet control4 ,then1 no matter what the decision may be1 at least you have the satisfaction of having shown your horse at his best4 ,it is important to have a place in line and try to keep it whatever it happens to be4 ,it is not at all necessary to pass the rider ahead4 ,passing the rider ahead while in front of the judge1 at least1 looks premeditated4 ,it makes it much harder for him to get a proper view of the horse you are passing and does not help him to view your horse1 nor is it courteous to the other riders4 ,if your horse naturally walks1 trots1 or canters a bit faster than the horse in front of you1 so that1 to show your horse to his best1 it is necessary to pass1 it is quite as easy to find an opportunity to pass somewhere else than just in front of the judge4 ,so1 when the ring master asks all the riders to line up1 it is not necessary that they should all attempt to do so next to the judges' stand4 ,the judges do not remain there1 and the fact that your horse is nearer the stand does not bring him nearer the blue ribbon4 ,in backing a horse1 remember that his head must not be too low on his chest4 ,his neck should be well arched up and his head drawn in on the neck and high on the chest4 ,if you find that your horse does not back readily1 it is probably because his forefeet are too far forward4 ,in this attitude he is in the best position to resist you whatever you may do1 and you may find it impossible to back him in the usual way4 ,in such a case1 first give him his head and a touch with the heel1 starting him forward a step or two2 then gather him and1 by pulling gently1 you will find that he backs readily4 ,in the ring always remember to do implicitly what the judge asks4 ,even if the judge should demand a circle1 circle you must1 and if a figure eight1 that too must be done4 ,after you have lined up and when your horse is being put through his paces1 remember1 in turning1 always to turn your horse's head toward the fence and not toward the centre4 ,if you turn toward the centre1 the horse is very apt to try to join the other horses as they stand lined up1 however good may be his manners4 ,of course1 before you ride a horse in the ring1 you must be sure on what signal he is trained to take the canter4 ,i have explained on page #hd that some horses are trained to take the canter when the rider turns their head to the side on which they are to canter and touches lightly the curb rein on that side4 ,other horses are trained to take the canter on merely touching the curb rein on the side on which they are to canter4 ,thus they are trained to canter right by touching the right curb4 ,other horses1 again1 are trained to take the canter on a signal given by raising the curb rein on the side on which they are to canter and at the same time carrying the hand to the other side4 ,thus1 to make such a horse canter to the right1 carry the left hand to the left and at the same time raise the off curb rein with the right hand4 ,it is1 therefore1 most important to know the signal to which your horse is accustomed2 otherwise he may either not take the canter or canter on the wrong foot4 ,a most important point which should never be overlooked is to be sure that your own saddle1 which you should use1 if possible1 in the show ring1 fits the horse you are to ride4 ,otherwise the horse may appear to have lost his manners when the real trouble is that the saddle is hurting him and making him fretful and nervous4 ,illustration3 ,,lined ,,up ,ladies' class in a country show ,in walking1 while a horse should appear to have his head1 one must be careful not to let his head nod1 for this often gives an appearance of lameness4 ,i believe it is sometimes called bridle lameness4 ,i once had such an experience myself4 ,the horse was perfectly sound but thought to be lame because ,i had given him his head too much2 that is1 ridden him with too loose a rein4 ,a horse1 while walking1 should have his head well placed1 not too low or too high1 and a horse whose head is up and neck well arched is much more becoming to a woman than a horse that carries his head down4 ,in general1 in the ring1 a horse had better be ridden on whatever rein he has been trained to go by1 whether it be curb or snaffle1 and so much depends on the individual peculiarities of the horse and rider that no definite rule can be laid down4 ,the important thing is to have light hands and not to do anything to excite or annoy the horse4 ,just a few more words of advice gleaned from the experience of many years4 ,never1 if you can prevent it1 display the slightest particle of nervousness when mounting or on entering the ring4 ,horses--especially the high-spirited ones--are very sensitive to touch and to the mental attitude of the rider1 and they know at once from the rider's hands whether her head is steady and cool or nervous and excited4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,hints ,,on ,,riding ,if you have occasion to ride for any considerable distance1 and particularly if the weather is hot1 bear in mind that the weight of the rider and saddle on his back for a long period of time tires the horse quite as much as forcing him beyond his gait4 ,it is better1 therefore1 to keep a horse at a sharp walk or1 if you are trotting1 at a sharp trot1 so as to cover the ground and then to rest him at intervals for ten or fifteen minutes1 than it is to keep going for the whole time at a slow walk or trot4 ,when you rest your horse be sure to loosen the girths1 and1 if you have far to go1 it is better to take the saddle off entirely and let the horse roll if he wants to1 as few things refresh him as much4 ,it is equally important not to force a horse under saddle beyond his gait2 find out his natural fast gait and keep him at it and neither force him beyond it nor let him lag4 ,if you have a nervous or high-spirited horse who wants to go1 it is far better to let him go in moderation than to be constantly holding him back1 as that worries and fatigues him and1 in the meantime1 you are not covering the distance4 ,so1 if you are riding in company and your horse is the more spirited of the two1 you will find it easier for your horse to let him keep about one-half a head in advance of the other1 for1 if you keep him level or hold him back1 he will be fretting all the time and tire both himself and his rider4 ,in riding1 even for a short distance1 it is most advisable to start and finish your ride at a walk1 following the old maxim1 8,walk the first mile out and the last mile in40 ,at the beginning of a ride a horse needs to get going a bit in order to be limbered up and catch his wind4 ,so1 if you start off1 as many do1 at a fast trot or a canter1 the horse will soon be winded and the rest of your ride will be spoiled4 ,if you start him slowly1 he will warm up to his work and you will have the best part of the ride where it should be--toward the end and not at the beginning4 ,when you bring your horse home he should be well cooled off before he arrives1 that he may not take a chill4 ,by bringing your horse home in this condition1 you save your groom a vast amount of work1 and work which only the most conscientious grooms can be depended upon to do2 that is1 to cool the horse off properly before he is stabled or fed4 ,with regard to the gait at which you should ride1 it is1 of course1 impossible to lay down any rule1 so much depends upon the rider1 the horse1 the length of the ride1 the season of year1 etc41 but one point should be constantly kept in mind1 and that is1 unless you are riding a trained hunter1 to go down all hills that amount to anything at a walk4 ,if you have to go down faster than a walk1 a horse is much less likely to stumble going downhill at the canter than at the trot4 ,it is also easier both for the rider and horse to go uphill at the canter than at the trot2 though1 of course1 if the hill is a long one1 it is better to walk it4 ,in going uphill1 always give a horse his head1 and1 in going downhill1 keep him well in hand and ride him on the snaffle so that you may be able to pick him up the moment he stumbles4 ,in riding at night1 when it is too dark for you to see the road1 let your horse pick his own way1 as a horse sees very much better in the dark than a person4 ,if you are riding through a strange country and lose your way1 give him his head and he will find the way home4 ,horses have an exceptionally well developed sense of locality and can nearly always be trusted to find their way home by instinct4 ,in these days of automobiles1 it is important to follow the rule of the road and always keep to the right4 ,if you have occasion to dismount and lead your horse1 by far the best way to hold him is1 standing on the near side1 to take the two curb reins in the right hand1 separated by the forefinger and passing through the body of the hand where they are firmly held1 keeping the hand about two or three inches from the bit4 ,in this position you have the horse under perfect control1 and1 when you are leading him with your hand in this position1 do not look at him or pay any attention to him and you will find that he will follow4 ,whereas1 if1 as many do1 you take only one rein in hand along the horse's neck and then speak to him1 he will either pull back or he may get away from you and you cannot stop him4 ,approach your horse's head from the side and not the front1 and be sure not to raise your hand or whip or do anything which might frighten him or give him the idea that you were about to hit him on the head4 ,horses1 especially ,western-bred horses1 are very sensitive about their heads and1 if an attempt is made to grab the reins suddenly or violently1 they are almost sure to back away and very apt to rear4 ,if your horse limps and you are alone1 or the person whom you are with does not know what to do1 you should immediately dismount and look at the foot on which he is limping1 to see if he has picked up a stone or run a nail into his foot4 ,in picking up a horse's foot it is most important to put yourself in a position where he cannot kick you4 ,to do this1 approach the foot which is to be taken up from the front1 face to the rear1 and grasp the horse's fetlock with the hand nearest to him4 ,if he refuses to lift his foot1 push his foot forward and1 if necessary1 put your weight against his shoulder or stifle1 so as to throw his weight on the other leg4 ,if you have not a hoof-pick about you1 the best way to dislodge a stone is to hammer it with another stone and1 if you are quiet and gentle with your horse1 you probably will be able to dislodge it without much trouble4 ,if1 however1 you cannot dislodge it1 do not attempt to ride your horse while he has the stone in his foot1 but lead him until you get assistance4 ,if your horse has run a nail in his foot1 you must immediately have it drawn out by some one who knows his business1 as it is not only very painful1 but there is great danger of lockjaw4 ,in regard to park hacks and long-tailed saddle horses1 the only way to solve the problem in this country of the two types1 in horse shows1 is to divide the classes having long tails and short tails4 ,at present in horse shows in the saddle classes long-tailed and docked horses are frequently entered in the same class1 which makes it doubly difficult for the judge1 at times causing his decision to depend largely upon his personal preference for long-tailed or docked horses4 ,i would suggest1 therefore1 that in all shows where the long-tailed and docked horses are not divided into separate classes in advance1 there should be an informal division made before the judging1 very much as is done with respect to the championship classes1 where the judges often are permitted to divide the classes into horses above and below #ae4b4 ,every horsewoman should have at least a general knowledge of when and with what to feed her horse4 ,in general a horse should be fed three times a day1 and the allowance for the average horse is four quarts of oats1 at six in the morning1 and as much hay as he will eat about an hour later4 ,at noon two quarts of oats and hay about an hour later1 and at night a bran mash composed of about two quarts of oats and an equal mash of bran1 well salted4 ,a horse should never be watered after eating4 ,he should be watered about twenty minutes before his first morning meal and may be watered about twenty minutes before each of his other meals4 ,there is no objection to watering him at other times1 not after feeding1 and in hot weather it is advisable to water him frequently4 ,when watering a horse in the stable1 he should be allowed to have as much as he wants to drink1 but the water should never be very cold4 ,in winter the chill should always be taken off the water before it is given to the horse4 ,the above hours for feeding1 except the hour for his breakfast1 must1 however1 be modified by the time when he comes in from work1 as a horse should always have a good rest and be thoroughly cooled off before he is fed oats4 ,he can eat hay when he is hot but never oats4 ,many horses will require more than the above allowance and many others less1 and some horses require as much humoring about their food as a nervous child4 ,if a horse is very thin and not working hard1 one of the best ways to fatten him is to give him light1 steady work and mix molasses with his feed4 ,if1 however1 a horse is becoming poor in spite of taking all his food1 it is probably because his teeth are too long and need filing down1 as a horse with long teeth will never masticate or digest his food properly4 ,with most horses1 any food remaining in the manger after a meal should be taken out and thrown away1 as the sight of it is apt to disgust them and put them off their feed4 ,a sweating horse should not be watered unless while on the road1 in which case it does him no harm to give him1 from time to time1 a drink of not too cold water1 but after each drink he should be walked for five or ten minutes before taking up the trot or canter4 ,while on the road it is much safer not to let your horse eat any grass1 and if he does eat any1 be sure not to trot him until he has had ample time to digest it4 ,on the other hand1 when a horse is brought home and is being cooled off by the groom1 it refreshes him very much to be allowed to nibble the grass4 ,it is very advisable1 if you have land enough1 to have a portion fenced off as a paddock1 even if you keep only one or two horses4 ,when a horse comes in tired1 after a hard day1 nothing refreshes him so much as to be turned out without even a bridle1 and allowed to roll as much as he wants2 and if horses are not being used it is better for them to be turned out for a few hours in the paddock rather than to remain all day in the stall4 ,if you have a paddock1 however1 be sure that the fence is high enough to prevent your horses jumping it1 and be particularly careful that the inside of the fence is smooth and that there are no nails or barbed wire or anything that might injure the horse4 ,there are portable paddock fences to be had1 which are easily put up and moved1 and they are very useful when you move your stable about from place to place4 ,if you are fortunate enough to buy a thoroughly trained horse1 the difficult thing is to keep him so without spoiling him by over indulgence on the one hand1 or1 on the other1 by arousing his obstinacy by fighting instead of controlling him4 ,quite as much tact and forbearance are needed in the handling of horses as in handling children4 ,they should not be punished for trifling faults1 nor should grave faults be allowed to become habits4 ,much can be done by caresses and the use of the voice4 ,but in the caressing be sure that the horse does not think that you are slapping him4 ,most horses resent being slapped on the back quite as much as most of your friends4 ,in fact1 all horses worth riding dislike anything that will startle them1 or any sudden shock4 ,it is easy to establish a sort of a private signal code with your horse1 which he will always understand4 ,it is only necessary always to do the same thing to bring about the same result4 ,if you wish your horse to move the part of the body in front of the saddle1 the signal should be by stroking him on the neck or shoulders1 and if he is to move any part of his body behind the saddle1 he should be stroked or touched on the quarters4 ,if he obeys1 continue stroking1 but if he disobeys or misunderstands1 cease the caress4 ,in time he will come to regard the caress as a signal4 ,for example1 if you wish your horse to back1 do not stroke him on the neck1 nor if you wish him to turn from one side to the other should you stroke his quarters4 ,much more can be done with a horse through kindness than through fear4 ,unbounded patience is needed1 and the individual peculiarities of each horse must be made the subject of careful study4 ,some horses are intelligent while others are stupid1 and it is with the latter that good horsewomanship comes to the fore4 ,a stupid horse has to be led on step by step1 and should only be taught one lesson at a time and should master that before proceeding with the next4 ,when you are training your horse and he shows obstinacy1 or appears to be stupid1 before starting to punish him or compelling him to obey your will1 be sure first that the cause of his obstinacy is not some petty discomfort--such as an ill-fitting bit or a sore back1 too tight a girth1 or indigestion4 ,nine times out of ten the reason for a horse's obstinacy is that he is uncomfortable or that his mind is distracted by some petty annoyance4 ,furthermore1 a horse when he is fresh can seldom be taught anything4 ,the best thing to do is to give him thirty or forty minutes good straightaway work until he is calmed down1 and then you can command his attention4 ,he will then go along without gazing around or being distracted by every passing trifle1 and all his faculties will be at the command of his rider4 ,when riding in company remember there is a 8riding courtesy40 ,you have your comrade and your comrade's horse to consider as well as yourself and your own horse4 ,the two horses should be kept going together1 and on the same gait as much as possible1 so if your horse begins to urge ahead1 keep him back a trifle4 ,there is nothing more annoying than the 8galloping friend0 who will not take the trouble to control her mount1 and so makes the other horse nervous and unmanageable4 ,never 8cluck0 to your horse1 even when you are riding alone4 ,it is a very bad habit to acquire1 and1 when you are riding in company1 the other horse or horses are sure to hear you and to increase their gait quite as much as you want your horse to increase his4 ,you are supposed to ride a trained horse1 who will obey the signals from the reins1 heel1 or whip1 and if your horse does not know these signals he must be taught them before you ride in company4 ,do not1 however1 under any circumstances1 flourish your whip or use it with such force that another horse can hear it1 for the effect will be quite as bad as clucking4 ,if your horse lays his ears back and bites at the other horse1 do not pull his head away1 especially if you are up with the other horse1 for that will put him in a position where he can kick to great advantage4 ,instead of pulling his head away1 rein him back and keep his head straight4 ,if you have occasion to raise your right hand to adjust your hat or hair1 be sure first to place the whip in the left hand1 as otherwise your horse or your comrade's horse is very apt to be frightened by seeing the whip flourished in the air4 ,a most important point to be remembered is that your horse should be girthed before you mount him1 and never after mounting--first1 because it is very dangerous to mount with the girths loose1 for if the horse should break away from the groom1 or whoever is holding him1 or even swerve or buck suddenly1 the saddle is almost sure to twist and there may be a very bad accident2 and1 secondly1 because girthing a horse after the rider is mounted generally results in the girths being drawn too tight1 and too tight girths not only cause the horse great pain but make him apt to stumble or lag in his gait and become unduly exhausted4 ,tight girthing has very much the same effect on the horse as tight lacing has on the rider4 ,if you have occasion to look to the rear1 always turn your body toward the right2 not only is it much easier to look around in this way1 but you cannot turn to the left without raising your right knee more or less1 and you are apt to raise it so high that if the horse should start suddenly you would lose your hold of the pommel4 ,illustration3 ,,safety ,,stirrup1 ,,open ,illustration3 ,,safety ,,stirrup1 ,,closed ,with the side-saddle1 safety skirts and stirrups should always be used1 as with them a fall is very unlikely to injure the rider4 ,with the plain skirt a bad accident may be caused through the skirt catching on the pommels1 and with a plain stirrup there is great danger of being dragged by the foot4 ,if the horse shies to the right1 always remember to throw the weight to the left2 this keeps the legs tight in position which enables the rider to maintain her balance2 whereas1 if you throw your weight to the right1 you lose the grip from the right knee and have no means of recovering your balance1 so that a fall is inevitable4 ,of course1 if the horse shies to the left you should throw your weight to the left for the same reason4 ,owing to the very strong grip of the right knee over the pommel1 it is almost impossible for a woman to be thrown to the near or left side of the horse2 the only real danger is of being thrown to the right1 and1 as there is nothing to stop a woman from falling on the off or right side of the saddle1 as there is on the left1 it follows that1 toward whichever side the horse may shy1 the only thing to do is1 as ,i have said1 to throw the weight to the left4 ,when you feel yourself being thrown1 especially if you have on a plain skirt or have a plain stirrup1 or both1 be sure not to let go of the reins1 for in case you do not fall clear of the saddle1 your one chance for self-preservation is that in some measure you still have control of the horse4 ,if you keep hold of the reins you have a good chance of being able to pull him in and keep him from running away1 and you will save yourself from being dragged and probably escape a very serious accident4 ,if a horse in the act of shying or balking succeeds in turning half-way round with you1 do not try to turn him back against the direction in which he has shied1 but1 instead1 pull him quickly and completely around in the direction which he has taken4 ,he will not attempt to resist you and you will at once have him back in his original position and going in the original direction4 ,if your horse rears1 give him his head immediately and throw your weight as far forward as possible4 ,this will usually bring him down4 ,if1 however1 you feel that he is going over1 remember that a horse when he rears always falls to one side or the other4 ,therefore1 as soon as you find that he is bound to fall1 pull his head with all your strength to the right so as to make him lose his balance and fall on that side4 ,the chances are that you will not be hurt1 whereas1 if he falls to the left1 you are almost sure to have your legs caught beneath him and so be seriously injured4 ,if your horse backs1 give him his head and particularly be sure not to have any pressure on the curb1 as that keeps his head in4 ,sit close and urge him forward with the left leg and touch him on his off quarter with your whip4 ,if you are wearing a spur1 touch him lightly at first and then as hard as may be necessary4 ,if your horse kicks or bucks1 keep his head up by loosening the curb and using the snaffle only4 ,sit close and put him in motion1 but be careful not to let the left leg go back1 as this is apt to terrify him and make him kick or buck all the harder4 ,very few horses will either kick or buck when they are in motion1 and1 unless the horse is vicious and is an habitual kicker or bucker1 his kicking or bucking is usually caused by freshness1 and the best thing to do is to make him canter until he has calmed down4 ,if your horse balks1 by far the best thing to do is to distract his attention or else let him stand quietly without offering him any resistance4 ,a horse has only one idea in his mind at a time1 but that idea is very fixed1 so that if you strike a balking horse or resist him1 you will simply arouse all his obstinacy and he will balk all the worse4 ,the best way to distract his attention is to pet him and speak to him4 ,in the course of a short time he will tire of the balking and attempt to start forward4 ,if at this moment you keep him standing a bit longer he will become possessed of the idea that he wants to go1 and you will have no more difficulty with him for the time being4 ,indeed1 ,i have found that this is by far the best way to break a horse of the habit of balking4 ,when you are riding in company1 an important thing for both your companion and yourself to remember is that if your companion1 whether man or woman1 is mounted on a slower horse than yours1 and your horse starts to run1 the very worst thing that he can do is to try to catch you4 ,the noise and excitement which his horse produces will make your horse run all the faster2 his horse being slower1 he will not be able to catch you1 and you will be almost sure to have a runaway4 ,i have known of many very serious accidents being caused through a man trying to catch a girl's horse when her horse was merely galloping a little too fast4 ,unless your companion is a thoroughly experienced rider and has a horse that he knows is faster than yours1 he had much better rein his horse in and give you a chance to control your own horse4 ,it may also be remarked that it is a very difficult thing to catch a runaway horse1 and any one who attempts it is taking a great risk1 not so much for himself as for the girl whose horse he is attempting to catch1 while another woman1 if mounted on a side-saddle1 would have the greatest difficulty in bringing herself into position to catch your horse at all4 ,if a woman using the side-saddle has occasion to catch another's horse1 she should be sure to keep the other horse on her near or left side4 ,if the runaway horse is on her right side1 it is very difficult for her to catch him without losing her balance4 ,if you do have occasion to stop a runaway horse1 you should1 if possible1 have your horse at least a neck ahead of him1 so that you may be sure to catch his reins close by the bit when you grab for them4 ,if you attempt to catch the reins back of his neck1 it is very unlikely that you will be able to stop him1 and you are much more apt to cause a fall4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,correct ,,dress ,,for ,,the ,,saddle ,to look well in the saddle a woman must be correctly and smartly turned out4 ,the picturesqueness of the old-fashioned skirt1 the plumed hat1 and the ambling palfrey has passed away1 and a woman's riding clothes of to-day are designed1 first1 for comfort1 and second1 for neatness4 ,absolute plainness and everything in keeping are the principles to be followed4 ,for the side-saddle the habit must be well cut1 well made1 and of good material4 ,the length and style of the coat should be adapted to the wearer's height and figure4 ,the skirt should always be of the 8safety0 type4 ,there are several different designs of safety skirts1 but they may be divided into three classes--the apron skirt1 the half apron1 and the skirt with patent fasteners4 ,illustration3 ,,safety ,,skirt1 ,,under ,,side ,,safety ,,skirt1 ,,outside ,,waistcoats ,,breeches ,,apron ,,skirt1 ,,under ,,side ,,half ,,apron ,,skirt1 ,,under ,,side ,,rain ,,coat ,,riding ,,clothes ,the apron skirt is very generally used in ,england1 and in this country is used by many for hunting and1 to some extent1 for general riding4 ,with this pattern of skirt the rider must1 of course1 wear boots and breeches4 ,the skirt is entirely cut away on the side next to the horse so that1 when the rider is mounted1 her legs are in direct contact with the saddle4 ,the skirt is fastened along the right leg above the knee with buttons and has a strap which passes under the right knee4 ,there is also a strap which passes under the right foot and another strap which passes under the left heel and holds the skirt in place4 ,the half apron skirt is similar to this but1 instead of being fastened to the right leg by buttons1 it goes under the thigh and the rider sits on it4 ,the skirt with patent fasteners is cut just like a plain skirt1 but on the right side and following the leg from the knee down there is an open seam extending around the pommels4 ,this seam is fastened with patent fasteners when the rider is off the horse1 but should be left open when she is mounted4 ,i consider the apron skirt the safest for use in the hunting field1 for1 while in my own experience ,i have not known of a woman being 8hung up0 with a skirt with patent fasteners1 ,i have heard of this occurring4 ,the awkwardness1 however1 of the apron or half apron skirt1 when one is out of the saddle1 makes it embarrassing for the wearer1 so it is scarcely to be recommended for ordinary riding4 ,the half apron pattern of skirt is quite as safe as the apron and it is really more a matter of individual fancy as to which of the two one should select4 ,there are also skirts of the type with patent fasteners which are fastened in the same way at the waist1 so that if the rider should be thrown and the skirt should be caught in the saddle1 the waistband will give way and the rider will be entirely released from the skirt4 ,habit skirts should be kept from blowing and 8riding0 by the use of two elastic loops1 both on the inside of the skirt1 one in such a position as to pass over the right toe1 the other under the left heel4 ,these loops should be slipped into position as soon as the rider is in place in the saddle4 ,it is a mistake to think that there is any danger from these loops1 for they are sure either to slip off the foot or to give way in case of an accident4 ,in the saddle a woman should produce a broad-shouldered and long-waisted effect1 and the coat should be cut with this principle in mind4 ,unless a woman's shoulders look wider than her hips1 she will never present a smart appearance on a horse4 ,i do not admire a small-waisted effect in the saddle4 ,somehow it is inappropriate and looks uncomfortable4 ,the effect should be of broad shoulders1 slimness1 neatness1 and ease2 of long lines rather than curves4 ,the coat should be single-breasted1 fastened with five or three buttons1 according to the wearer's figure1 and also with regard to the use for which the coat is intended4 ,illustration3 ,,new ,,style ,,costume ,,for ,,park ,,riding ,thus in the hunting-field1 whatever the rider's figure1 it is better to have five buttons1 in order to protect the rider as much as possible against rain1 etc4 ,for hunting1 and especially for use in cold weather and for country wear1 the collar of the coat should be made to turn up and button over with a tab1 and there should be a button under the left lapel1 so that the coat may be buttoned closely to the neck for further protection4 ,illustration3 ,,old ,,style 7#ahhg7 ,,postilion ,,coat ,with regard to length1 the fashion of the time must1 of course1 be followed4 ,at present it is the fashion to have coats long1 so as to come about five inches above the knee when the rider is standing4 ,some will find it becoming to their figure to have coats even longer and some shorter1 and we may hope that the days of the tight-fitting postilion coats1 which make the rider look all hips1 have passed forever4 ,the collar may be of velvet of the same shade as the habit1 of the material itself1 or of gray1 black1 or tan leather1 according to the color of the habit1 but not of silk or satin4 ,personally1 ,i do not care for leather collars and think they are too showy to be really smart4 ,a left side breast pocket and two side pockets are permissible4 ,it is a good plan to line the tails of the coat with rubber1 so that the sweat from the horse's back will not soak through the cloth4 ,the sleeves should be plain and finished at the cuffs like a man's1 or the cuffs may be turned back from two to three inches1 according to the length of arm1 but should never be of velvet or any material other than that of the coat itself4 ,waistcoats are very smart1 but not absolutely necessary4 ,for use in the hunting field and in cold weather they are advisable1 and should then be made of a rather heavy material1 and1 in particular1 the back should be of flannel so as to protect the rider against a chill4 ,waistcoats may be made of various fancy or plaid materials1 in heavy or light weights1 which are manufactured especially for the purpose4 ,single-breasted waistcoats are smarter than double-breasted4 ,the pockets may be made with or without lapels4 ,if the former1 they should be real lapels or flaps coming over the pockets1 as they are meant to wear in the hunting-field so as to prevent things in the pockets from escaping4 ,these pockets in the waistcoat are very convenient for the watch1 change1 etc4 ,for the woman who does not ride much or is just taking it up and is not sure whether she will enjoy it1 for summer use in the country and for beginners and growing children1 ready-made habits of good style are to be found in the department stores4 ,for the woman who rides1 however1 it is most advisable to have a habit built by a smart tailor and made of the best materials4 ,the cheaper materials do not give good service and lose their shape4 ,for winter use1 some heavy material which does not stretch should be selected1 such as melton1 broadcloth1 heavy cheviot1 or heavy whip-cord1 and for most women the best colors are black1 black and gray1 brown1 dark blue1 dark green1 and any dark1 quiet color which is becoming to the wearer4 ,for park riding in the winter1 checks1 plaids1 and other pronounced patterns are not suitable4 ,for medium weight habits for spring and fall use1 there is more freedom of choice4 ,the rider can always select something becoming in checks1 medium weight gray and brown cloths1 light whip-cords1 and invisible stripes4 ,the great point is to be sure that the material selected is 8tailor's cloth10 for no other cloth will stand the hard wear of riding4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,winter ,,habit ,note standing martingale ,for summer there is a much wider range of choice4 ,for very warm weather1 khaki1 duck1 crash1 and linen habits are all suitable4 ,they are all smart and cool and stand tubbing1 or else can be regularly scrubbed with a stiff hand brush and bath soap4 ,this saves the risk of their being shrunk or starched out of shape by a careless laundress4 ,it is essential that habits for use in warm weather should be of material that can be washed1 and one should be sure to have the material shrunk before it is made up1 else1 when the rider puts it on after its first wetting1 she will probably present a 8grown-up-in-the-night0 appearance4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,smart ,,summer ,,habit ,it is a very good plan with summer habits to have two skirts made for each coat1 as skirts become soiled much more quickly4 ,if one rides much in the hot weather it is necessary to have at least three summer habits1 and the more one has the smarter one's appearance4 ,in ,london in the season1 and throughout ,england in the summer1 many women wear a white linen skirt with a dark coat or a dark cloth skirt with a white linen coat4 ,the former of these combinations is very well suited to our climate1 with its constant changes1 and also to the roads which have been oiled for automobiles1 as the oil ruins cloth skirts1 while it can be readily washed out of the linens4 ,the combination of a dark cloth skirt and a white linen coat looks cooler than it is and is better suited to the ,english climate than to ours4 ,for rainy or cold weather a rain coat or covert coat is very serviceable4 ,the former may be either of the material of which the ,english rain coats are made or of cravenetted cloth4 ,very few of the tailors in this country make these rain coats1 so it is usually necessary to buy an imported one4 ,the ,english coats are so made as to shed the water in front of the pommels1 and do not allow it to collect4 ,they have an inner lining which fastens about the wrist with an elastic band and the collar buttons over with a tab4 ,they1 therefore1 are a complete protection against the wet but1 except for use in very cold storms or in snow1 are too hot for general purposes in our climate4 ,a coat of cravenetted cloth will therefore be found1 perhaps1 more serviceable4 ,if intended as a protection against the rain1 it should be nearly as long as the habit on the near side1 and the back should1 of course1 have a vent long enough to clear the cantle4 ,for riding in cold weather many women find it necessary to wear a top-coat1 which may be made of heavy covert cloth or of rough tweed or of any suitable plain material such as a man would use4 ,such a coat need not be as long as a rain coat1 but may be1 if the rider desires additional protection4 ,the top-coat1 of course1 should be longer than the habit coat1 as nothing looks worse than to see the skirts of a habit coat coming out under those of the top-coat4 ,the top-coat may be finished just like a man's1 with patch pockets1 etc41 and should1 of course1 have a collar that will turn up and button over with a tab4 ,a serviceable coat for summer use in rainy weather may be made of light weight check rubber cloth1 which is very smart and cooler than the imported ,english rain coats4 ,the underclothes for riding should be as carefully considered as the outer garments4 ,silk shirts and full silk tights are best for riding1 but1 if full tights are not worn1 socks should be worn in place of stockings1 as the latter wrinkle under the right knee and chafe4 ,garters1 if tight1 as they need to be1 stop the circulation1 and supporters come directly under the leaping horn4 ,if silk tights are deemed too extravagant1 silk lisle or lisle tights1 or boys' long balbriggan1 lisle1 or gauze merino drawers are a good substitute4 ,corsets or corset waists1 if worn1 should be loose enough for absolute comfort and freedom1 but women who are accustomed to the support of heavy stays should1 when riding1 wear equestrian corsets4 ,to present a mannish appearance in the saddle1 short corsets should be worn and1 as ,i have said before1 the appearance of being laced should be entirely avoided4 ,either equestrian tights or riding breeches are worn1 and nowadays most women prefer the latter4 ,a woman's riding breeches are made on the style of a man's and of similar material1 the chief difference being that if buttons are used to fasten them below the knee1 they should be placed either directly in front1 which is smart but may be uncomfortable1 or on the inside of the right leg1 so as to avoid rubbing against the saddle4 ,instead of buttons1 lacing may be used and1 if it is1 both knees can be finished alike1 the same as a man's4 ,two of the patterns are illustrated on page #aji4 ,breeches may be made of the same material as the habit or of any suitable material such as a man would wear4 ,with a heavy winter habit it is1 of course1 unnecessary to use as heavy material for the breeches as would be the case if no skirt were worn4 ,for summer use1 breeches may be made of white linen1 duck1 or khaki4 ,for hunting and for rough country wear and for cold weather1 doeskin breeches are most serviceable and very comfortable1 and white breeches1 such as men wear in the hunting field1 are correct and suitable for almost any occasion4 ,women who are inclined to fatness may prefer equestrian tights1 made of silk or wool1 to breeches4 ,riding boots for women are made either stiff legged1 like a man's1 or soft legged1 and with or without tops4 ,my preference is for a boot made throughout of one material1 and1 for some occasions1 stiff legs are almost a necessity1 while for others the soft legs are more comfortable4 ,for winter use1 and for wear with black1 blue1 green1 or very dark gray habits1 black boots look much better than tan4 ,for the show ring and for park riding1 patent-leather stiff-legged boots are correct1 and are better suited to very formal occasions than plain calf boots4 ,patent-leather boots should always be made with stiff legs1 as otherwise the varnish will crack4 ,plain calf boots are more serviceable and more comfortable than patent-leather for country riding1 and are correct for the hunting-field4 ,patent-leather boots are not correct in the hunting-field1 and1 like most other matters of correct form1 this rule is founded on common sense1 for patent-leather boots tire the feet and legs1 and with them the feet are apt to become very cold in bad weather4 ,they are also easily scratched and damaged in riding over rough country4 ,for hunting and for polo1 stiff-legged boots are correct1 as they are a great protection for the legs4 ,tan boots are not correct in the show ring1 except for out-door shows in the summer1 nor are they correct at any time in the hunting-field4 ,they look better with summer habits1 and with any light colored habit1 particularly with light grays1 browns1 and khaki4 ,black patent-leather boots1 hot as they are1 look very smart with white linen habits4 ,the loose-legged boots1 which resemble a jockey's boot1 are being worn now by both men and women for park and country riding1 especially in summer4 ,they are cooler than stiff-legged boots1 but give scarcely any protection4 ,illustration3 a ,,stiff-,,legged ,,boots b ,,field ,,boots ,a very good type of serviceable boot for rough country wear1 is one which laces over the instep and ankle1 and1 in its general cut1 resembles the field boot or shooting boot4 ,as these can be loosened over the instep1 they do not bind the foot or bring discomfort after a long day's wear1 and they are much more comfortable for walking4 ,they have the same objection1 however1 as the loose-legged boots2 that is1 they do not protect the leg in rough work4 ,many women wear1 in the country1 tan laced boots or leather leggings1 either of the straight kind or what are known as leather puttees4 ,these are the same as a man's except that the legging of the right leg should buckle on the inside1 for the same reason as ,i have mentioned in respect to the buttons on the breeches4 ,it is1 however1 much more important in the case of the leggings1 as the buckles1 if placed on the right side1 would come directly in contact with the saddle and cause the rider great discomfort4 ,whether boots or leggings are worn1 they should be of a length sufficient to come well up over the breeches1 but should be about two inches shorter than a man's boot or leggings would be1 because the right knee in the side-saddle is bent at much more of an angle than it is when riding astride1 and if the boot is too long it is very apt to pinch the flesh between the pommel and the top of the boot4 ,the boots should be fastened with catgut or cord loops in the back1 engaging with buttons sewed in the breeches1 and one may also have straps or 8garters0 passing through loops in the back of the boots and attached in front by cord loops to the second button on the breeches4 ,these loops and straps prevent the boots from slipping down and the breeches from slipping up1 and from twisting4 ,boots1 if not made by one's own boot maker1 should be a size larger than those ordinarily worn1 as boots tight in the foot1 particularly of the stiff-legged kind1 are1 at the end of a long day1 instruments of torture1 and ,i have known of many cases where they have had to be cut off because of the feet having swollen4 ,whatever kind of boot is worn1 it should fit very closely about the calf and should be smaller at the top so as to conform to the shape of the leg4 ,many women consider the fit of the boots as unimportant1 not realizing to what an extent they may be seen1 and how uncomfortable1 too1 loose boots are for walking4 ,under the coat should be worn a plain or plaited shirt of any pattern or material which may suit the wearer's fancy1 provided only that it is in keeping with the general mannish style of the whole costume4 ,silk shirts are very suitable and quite correct at all times4 ,the cuffs should be fastened with sleeve-links4 ,for neckwear ,i prefer white ,ascot stocks4 ,these stocks should be made of very thin material which is hard to find4 ,the ready-made ones are usually much too thick and clumsy and cannot be tied neatly4 ,they should never be laundered stiff1 and in the front a piece of celluloid is inserted on the inside1 or the stock may be worn over a stiff standing collar of the same height4 ,the stock should be fastened with an appropriate pin4 ,the bar pins look particularly neat4 ,instead of white ,ascot stocks1 stocks in colors1 tying in a bow1 are very smart1 particularly for summer1 and they are not so warm as the ,ascots4 ,they come in plain colors and polka dots and are much worn in ,england4 ,of course1 they look best when worn over a high standing collar4 ,instead of a stock1 it is equally correct to wear a high turnover or standing white linen collar with an ,ascot or a four-in-hand tie1 or a bow tie which is quite smart for almost any occasion4 ,one should never wear a 8ready tied0 stock or tie4 ,they are essentially bad form4 ,if a belt is worn it should be of plain calf leather or pigskin with a plain buckle4 ,while for city riding1 whatever the weather1 a coat must be worn2 in summer in the country many women ride without one for coolness' sake4 ,when riding without a coat1 it looks much better to wear a belt1 which should pass through loops sewed on the band of the skirt4 ,the hair should be done plainly and low on the head1 either braided or securely coiled4 ,for young girls only1 a hair ribbon1 which should be black1 is permissible4 ,be sure that the hair is arranged securely1 for nothing looks worse or is more uncomfortable when riding than untidy hair4 ,the correct hat for use in winter is a black derby1 except on very formal occasions1 such as the show ring or formal park riding1 when a silk hat should be worn1 if becoming4 ,if not1 however1 a derby is equally correct1 but these are the only two hats which are correct for formal riding4 ,a silk hat is also worn in the hunting field1 where it is strictly correct4 ,many women wear in the hunting field a specially constructed stiff derby intended as a protection to the head in the case of a fall1 or of coming in contact with branches4 ,many women find the 8,continental0 hat more becoming than the derby1 and it is perfectly permissible for all but very formal occasions4 ,it is never1 however1 correct in the show ring or in the hunting field4 ,for all occasions when a habit of a color other than black1 dark blue1 or dark green is permissible1 a derby hat may be worn of a shade to match the habit4 ,thus1 a light or dark brown derby1 if becoming1 looks very smart with a light or dark brown habit1 and a gray hat with checks4 ,for summer wear the plain straw or black sailor or ,panama is correct for all occasions1 but the ,panama1 if worn1 should be perfectly plain and1 particularly1 should have a plain ribbon4 ,these styles of hats are much better suited for wear with linen or crash habits than derbys or ,continentals4 ,for wear in the summer the sombrero is comfortable1 but ,i do not consider it very fit4 ,all riding hats should be large enough to set well down on the head1 like a man's1 and should be kept in place by a rather broad elastic4 ,if this is sewn a trifle nearer the front of the hat than usual1 it will hold the hat better than if sewn exactly in the middle4 ,hat pins should never be used in riding4 ,they look out of keeping1 and in case of an accident are very dangerous4 ,it is quite correct to wear a hat guard1 but it should be of the kind that fastens to the back brim of the hat1 with the hanger inside of the coat collar1 and the hanger should be short enough to keep the hat1 if blown off the head1 from striking the horse4 ,this precaution is very important1 as ,i have often known of horses starting to run from being struck by the hat4 ,riding gloves should either be tan1 dog-skin1 white buckskin1 or white chamois4 ,they should be heavy1 hand sewn1 have either one or two buttons1 and should be a size or two larger than those usually worn4 ,white gloves are correct for all occasions1 and ,i think look smarter than tan4 ,they should always be worn with white habits4 ,for the hunting field and the show ring1 heavy white buckskin gloves are strictly correct1 but they do not wash well and1 as they have to be pipe-clayed to look white1 the pipe-clay comes off on one's habit and proves very annoying4 ,i have found white chamois gloves the best for use as they can be washed while on the hands in tepid water with a scrubbing brush and bath soap4 ,when dry they should be put on1 rubbed softly together1 and they will then be practically as good as new4 ,buckskin gloves should be kept on trees to dry after washing or they will lose their shape and shrink4 ,driving gloves which are reinforced over the fingers where the reins are held in driving1 are not suitable for riding4 ,they are too stiff and clumsy and one loses the 8feel0 of the horse's mouth4 ,it is always correct to carry either a whip1 stock1 or crop1 and it is advisable to do so1 both because the horse may need punishment and in order to give the right hand something to do4 ,light cutting whips are best when riding a green horse or one that is apt to require punishment4 ,crops1 of course1 should always be carried in the hunting field1 and for other occasions plain sticks are equally correct4 ,it is not safe for a woman1 unless she is an experienced rider1 to wear a sharp spur1 and one should never be worn except with an open skirt1 as it is almost certain to catch in a plain skirt4 ,the spur1 if worn1 should be plain and of the same pattern as a man's4 ,no jewelry should be worn in riding except the pin in the tie and the cuff links4 ,illustration3 ,,puttees ,the under dress for cross-saddle riding should be the same as for the side-saddle4 ,for the outer dress the only style that ,i consider correct is loose riding breeches1 polo legged boots1 and a long coat4 ,the divided skirt always looks to me out of place1 and any woman who wants to wear a skirt had better ride in the side-saddle4 ,for a long riding trip in the mountains or for roughing it or for any occasion when a woman is apt to have to walk as well as to ride1 a short divided skirt1 coming only to the knees1 such as ,western women wear1 is appropriate1 but ,i should not consider it appropriate for ordinary riding in the ,east4 ,stiff boots are preferable to leggings because they do not show the shape of the leg and are more of a protection than soft legged boots4 ,the boots should be as long as a man's for cross-saddle riding and should show three buttons on the breeches4 ,they should be tight in the leg and fastened in the way ,i have described on page #aba4 ,the breeches should be cut exactly like a man's except that they should be more baggy above the knees4 ,they must fit very closely at the seat and about the waist and should fit very tightly below the knee4 ,they should always be reinforced with buckskin on the inside of the knees4 ,appropriate breeches are shown in the illustration on page #aji4 ,the coat should be single-breasted1 with three or five buttons1 according to the wearer's figure and personal fancy1 and rather loose fitting1 quite long1 with very full skirts coming below the knee when mounted4 ,the skirts of the coat are kept in place by a tab which engages with the third button from the top on the breeches1 just above the boots4 ,the coat should be opened enough in the back to clear the cantle1 so that the skirts will fall on either side of the horse4 ,with the skirts so fastened at the knees1 the thighs and upper legs are concealed and nothing is visible but a smart boot4 ,i consider this far the smartest1 the most comfortable1 the most modest1 and the safest costume for cross-saddle riding4 ,in the following list will be found the average price for all riding clothes1 etc41 each good of its kind3 ,cloth riding habit #ge4jj to #ajj4jj ,linen and flannel habit #de4jj to #fj4jj ,waistcoat #aj4jj to #ae4jj ,covert coat #de4jj to #ee4jj ,rain coat #dj4jj to #de4jj ,tights #a4jj to #bj4jj ,socks1 doz4 pairs #a4ej to #f4jj ,equestrian tights #a4ej to #b4ej ,riding breeches #aj4jj to #ah4jj ,boots 7ready-made7 #ab4jj to #ae4jj ,boots 7made to order7 #bj4jj to #ce4jj ,boots1 laced and strapped #be4jj ,leggings #aj4jj to #ae4jj ,riding stocks1 doz4 #c4jj to #f4jj ,shirt waists1 doz4 #ab4jj to #cj4jj ,linen collars1 doz4 4#ge to #c4jj ,neckties 7each7 4#ej to #b4jj ,belt 4#ej to #b4jj ,silk hat #h4jj to #aj4jj ,derby hat #d4jj to #e4jj ,sailor hat #c4jj to #e4jj ,panama hat #aj4jj to #cj4jj ,sombrero #e4jj to #ae4jj ,hat guards 4#ej to #a4jj ,gloves #a4jj to #b4ej ,riding crops #b4jj to #aj4jj ,whips #c4jj to #e4jj ,sticks #a4jj to #e4jj ,,chapter ,,ix ,,saddles ,,and ,,bridles ,much discrimination is required in the selection of a side-saddle4 ,in order to be comfortable it must fit both the rider and the horse1 a condition harder to find than one would imagine4 ,the best makers carry different lengths of saddles in stock4 ,the shortest measure eighteen inches from the front to the cantle1 and the longest twenty-four inches4 ,with each of these different lengths there are standard widths1 and ,i cannot overstate the importance of a woman choosing a saddle that is suited to her conformation4 ,on page #adj of this book will be found a diagram1 with instructions for measurement1 so that if a good maker is not available the saddle may be ordered by mail1 but ,i would advise any woman who wishes to select a saddle to take some experienced woman rider with her to the saddler's and rely on her advice1 as ,i have known many women to choose the wrong size of saddle and thus be rendered very uncomfortable4 ,trying a saddle in the shop is very different from riding in it on a horse1 and it takes a great deal of experience to pick out what you require4 ,a side-saddle1 in this country at least1 costs quite a bit of money1 but a good one1 with proper care1 will last for a lifetime1 and1 with a little adjustment1 can be made to fit almost any horse4 ,while there are hundreds of different makes of side-saddles on the market1 the really good ones are very few4 ,illustration3 ,,lady',s ,,park ,,and ,,hunting ,,saddle ,the best ,english side-saddles are really in a class by themselves1 and no such saddles are made in this country except by the ,english saddlers1 and they use only imported ,english pigskin4 ,the ,english1 whether imported or made here of ,english material1 cost only a little more than the ,american saddles1 and they are so far superior that there is no question in my mind but that they should be one's choice4 ,in its construction a woman's saddle differs from a man's4 ,as it is made to sit on instead of to bestride1 the seat is made as level as possible1 and the best saddles have1 if any1 only a slight dip of1 say1 from one to one and a half inches4 ,i find a saddle with this slight dip more secure for hunting and for riding very green horses1 but the saddle should not have a greater dip than this1 and many women find a level seat without any dip perfectly comfortable4 ,i prefer a level saddle for all ordinary use1 and the dip1 if any1 must come from the elevation of the cantle1 and not from the hollowing out of the seat or from the elevation of the front4 ,the old style side-saddle1 with a 8dished out0 seat covered with doeskin1 has been entirely abandoned1 for the safety of the rider and the comfort of the horse4 ,the best makers use pigskin for covering the seats of nearly all their saddles4 ,in ,france1 however1 many women use buckskin and some of these saddles are used in this country4 ,in ,france these saddles are pipe-clayed and look very smart with a light habit1 and if one is able to have two or more saddles in one's stable1 ,i know of no objection to using this ,french type of saddle on occasion4 ,the saddle-flaps should also be made of genuine pigskin4 ,most makers use pigskin to cover the leaping iron and pommel4 ,some of the best saddles1 however1 have these covered with buckskin1 which gives them a safer and more clinging feeling4 ,illustration3 ,,side-,,saddle ,,with ,,wide ,,pommels ,,and ,,safety ,,flap ,when the flap is raised the stirrup comes off ,the greatest improvement in the modern side-saddle is the cutting far back of the gullet plate1 which leaves the withers covered only by the continuation of the near flap4 ,this form of construction not only keeps the seat of the saddle level1 but makes the rider much more comfortable1 as it enables her to have her thigh horizontal instead of the knee being raised as it was in the old style of 8dished out0 saddles with a high front4 ,moreover1 it has the great advantage of freeing the horse's withers from pressure1 and helps a bit toward keeping his back cool4 ,the cooler the back is kept the freer it will be from soreness and chafing4 ,illustration3 ,,side-,,saddle ,,with ,,narrow ,,pommels ,,and ,,safety ,,flap ,,up ,illustration3 ,,side-,,saddle ,,with ,,stirrup ,,adjustable ,,from ,,off ,,side ,the frame of the saddle is called the 8tree40 ,the tree of the standard saddles is of a standard width1 and the fitting of the saddle to the horse's back is secured not from using different sized trees but by padding4 ,horses' backs differ greatly both in width and sharpness1 so that the saddle should always be fitted to the particular horse on which it is to be most used4 ,this should be done by an experienced and competent saddler1 and a proper fit secured before the saddle is bought or accepted4 ,with a properly fitted saddle1 saddle pads and cloths should never be necessary4 ,they look clumsy1 they are liable to slip out of place1 they collect sand and dirt1 and even the best of them heat the horse's back4 ,if some kind of saddle pad is required on account of a sore back1 or an ill-fitting saddle1 or if1 for instance1 one is using one's own saddle on a strange horse that it does not fit1 by far the best pad to use is a sheepskin1 cut the same size as the saddle and worn with the woolly side next to the horse's back4 ,sheepskins are readily washed and do not heat the horse's back nearly as much as the ordinary felt saddle pad4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,same ,,side-,,saddle1 ,,off ,,side4 ,,showing ,,spring ,,flap ,,which ,,holds ,,flap ,,up ,,or ,,down ,,at ,,will1 ,,permitting ,,rider ,,to ,,adjust ,,girths ,,or ,,stirrup ,,leather ,,while ,,mounted ,saddles are lined either with leather1 with plain ,holland linen1 or with heavy white serge4 ,of the three ,i greatly prefer the leather because it is cooler for the horse's back1 is more easily cleaned1 looks far smarter1 and is more durable4 ,if the saddle fits the horse properly the leather lining will never rub him1 but it must be kept soft by frequent oiling4 ,illustration3 ,,diagram ,,for ,,measuring ,,side-,,saddle ,in my opinion1 linen is next best1 but it does not wear as well as leather1 and serge1 which is in general use and is found in most saddles1 is not as good a material for lining as either leather or linen4 ,it is not durable1 it becomes very dirty1 it is hard to dry1 and1 unless it is kept clean and dry1 it rubs the horse's back badly4 ,as a substitute for a leather lining and in order to prevent the serge lining from chafing a tender back1 many riders adopt the expedient in vogue in ,india and use a leather saddle cloth called 8numnah40 ,these are good for use in hot weather and keep the horse's back much cooler than would the serge lining1 and save chafing4 ,they are cut the exact size of the saddle and fastened to it by straps which pass under the flap4 ,they must be kept soft by constant oiling1 otherwise they fail in their purpose4 ,illustration3 #a4 ,,double ,,girth ,illustration3 #b4 ,,fitz-,,william ,,girth ,illustration3 #c4 ,,corded ,,girth ,the girths are made either of webbing or of leather4 ,the ,fitz-,william girth is the safest and neatest for a woman4 ,this consists of one very broad girth1 some five inches wide1 with two buckles at each end which engage the two outside billets on either side of the saddle4 ,this girth goes next to the horse's body1 and another girth1 about half as wide and a trifle shorter1 passes over the first girth--on which it is held in position by a leather loop just below the buckles--and terminates in a single buckle which engages the middle of the three billets on either side of the saddle4 ,the advantages of this type of girth are that it is very strong and safe1 and it is much easier with it to girth the horse as tight as is necessary for the side-saddle than it is with two or three separate narrow girths1 each independent of the other1 such as are commonly used in livery stables and riding schools4 ,in girthing with the ,fitz-,william1 first the wide girth is drawn tight1 and then the narrow girth1 and it will be found that the narrow girth can be tightened on the wide one so that1 after it has been drawn1 the wide one can be taken up two or three holes1 and then the narrow one can be taken up again1 and so the horse cannot1 by inflating himself1 prevent tight girthing4 ,for the show ring1 for hunting1 and for park riding the girths must be either of leather or of white webbing4 ,for country use brown webbing girths are permissible1 but they never look well and are liked chiefly by lazy grooms4 ,needless to say1 white girths must be kept scrupulously clean and pipe-clayed4 ,i do not approve of braided horse-hide girths1 nor of the ,western 8cinch0 for use with the conventional ,english side-saddle4 ,the 8cinch10 of course1 is a very useful device for use with a cowboy's saddle1 but there is no justification for its use with the side-saddle4 ,illustration3 ,,adjusting ,,stirrup ,,from ,,off ,,side ,the balance strap1 which is the strap running from the girth billets on the near side to a ring fastened on the off side of the cantle1 serves to hold the saddle in position4 ,it must not1 however1 be strapped too tight or it will pull the saddle too far over to the right and fatigue the horse unnecessarily4 ,some of the best ,english side-saddles now are so made that1 when ridden by a very good rider1 a balance strap is not necessary4 ,this is a great advantage1 as many horses are ticklish and the balance strap annoys them1 and1 besides1 the side-saddle without a balance strap is smarter1 on the general principle that the less unnecessary harness there is on a saddle-horse the better4 ,it is most important that the bridle and reins should be made of the very best quality of leather throughout1 and of course1 when they are1 they are not cheap1 but1 on the other hand1 they last so much longer that it is economy to buy the best at the outset4 ,cheap leather may give way at a critical moment1 and1 in any case1 the low grade of leather will become hard and stiff1 will crack1 and will not take the proper polish4 ,the leather1 both of bridle and reins1 should be thin and pliable1 but this should be the result of pressing and working by the strapper4 ,the reins especially must always be pliable1 as thick reins tire and hurt both the hands of the rider and the mouth of the horse1 and with them one cannot have that lightness and firmness of touch by means of which alone a horse should be controlled by a woman4 ,i cannot insist upon this too strongly1 as many fine mouths have been ruined through the use of thick and heavy reins4 ,the reins for a woman's use should be a little narrower than for a man's1 and should be in proportion to the relative size of her hands4 ,women with very small hands may find it necessary to have reins especially made for them4 ,the width of the reins should be such that1 when held in the position described1 the fingers can be fully bent and the edges of the reins held between the second joint of the fingers and the cushions of the hands4 ,if they are too wide1 the fingers cannot be fully closed1 which presents a very awkward appearance4 ,if a rider has very long fingers the reins should not be too narrow1 for1 if they are1 they cannot be grasped on the edges1 and they slip through the fingers4 ,therefore1 women with exceptionally long fingers usually find it better to use a man's bridle4 ,with the ,weymouth curb and bridoon a double bridle is1 of course1 used4 ,this is illustrated in the cut and the names of the various parts given4 ,the buckles should be leather covered and should be square rather than round4 ,the cheek pieces and bridoon head may be buckled with the curb and snaffle bits1 respectively1 or be stitched4 ,the latter looks much neater1 but it makes the bits hard to clean and they cannot be changed4 ,the latest method is to have an invisible hook on the inside of the cheek pieces1 which is similar to the hook used on certain types of the best side-saddles1 in place of the buckle for shortening the stirrup leather4 ,the cheek piece1 where it passes through the ring1 has stitching on it1 and1 without a close inspection1 one would not notice whether the cheek pieces were stitched or hooked4 ,i recommend this appliance very highly1 as it wears better than buckles and looks just as well as stitching4 ,illustration3 #a4 ,,plain ,,snaffle ,illustration3 #b4 ,,bit ,,and ,,bridoon ,illustration3 #c4 ,,bit ,,and ,,bridoon ,,with ,,cavesson ,the reins should be fastened to the rings in the same way as the cheek pieces1 whether by buckles1 by stitching1 or by the invisible hook which ,i have described4 ,when the standing martingale is used it is fastened to the noseband or to the cavesson1 which many use in its place4 ,with horses that rear or are inclined to 8star gaze0 a woman should always1 except in the hunting field1 use a standing martingale4 ,it keeps their heads down1 gives the rider better control1 and prevents rearing4 ,the standing martingale looks better if hung from a breastplate in the same manner as a running martingale4 ,standing martingales cannot be used in hunting1 as they prevent a horse from jumping freely4 ,so in hunting with a horse that needs a martingale a running martingale should be used4 ,this is attached to the front of the breastplate and has two branches ending in rings1 through which the snaffle reins are passed4 ,in front of these rings there should be leather stops on the reins to prevent their buckles from catching in the rings4 ,illustration3 ,,correctly ,,saddled ,,and ,,bridled ,,for ,,hunting ,note the breastplate and cavesson ,running martingales are chiefly used in the hunting field and in jumping1 for in jumping a horse must have his head free1 and a tight standing martingale would prevent him from throwing his head forward at the take off1 and so not only prevent him from using his strength to the best advantage1 but would tend to throw him off his balance4 ,running martingales1 however1 are not nearly as effectual in preventing a horse from rearing1 and when they are used it requires a very considerable amount of strength on the part of the rider to keep the horse's head down1 while1 of course1 the standing martingale keeps the horse's head down without any exertion on the part of the rider4 ,if a standing martingale is used1 be sure that it is not fastened too tight2 it should be loose enough to allow the horse quite a little play with his head in its natural position4 ,if it is tighter than this the horse1 when the reins are loose1 will put his head in its natural position1 then feel the pressure of the martingale and think that he is being backed4 ,he will thereupon back1 and the more you give him his head by loosening the reins1 the more1 through attempting to raise his head1 he will feel the pressure of the martingale and will keep on backing4 ,under these circumstances1 the only thing you can do is to gather him lightly with the curb1 which will bring his head in and relieve the pressure of the martingale1 then urge him forward1 or1 if you want him to stand1 keep a light pressure on the curb so as to prevent the martingale from being tight4 ,illustration3 ,,varieties ,,of ,,riding ,,bits #a4 ,plain ,curb #b4 ,port ,curb #c4 ,straight ,bar ,curb #d4 ,shifting ,bar ,curb #e4 ,shifting ,rough ,curb #f4 ,western ,style #g4 ,mexican or ,western ,style #h4 ,severe ,shifting ,bar #i4 ,long ,port ,bit #aj4 ,chifney ,bit #aa4 ,gridiron ,bit #ab4 ,plain ,snaffle #ac4 ,rough ,snaffle #ad4 ,broken ,pelham1 ,rough #ae4 ,broken ,pelham1 ,smooth #af4 ,long ,pelham1 ,broken #ag4 ,pelham1 ,rough #ah4 ,hanoverian ,pelham1 ,rough #ai4 ,rough ,port ,bits #bj4 ,polo ,bits ,the breastplate1 used with nearly all horses by women in the hunting-field1 should be used at all times with a horse that is 8tucked up0 like a greyhound4 ,in fact1 many riders use breastplates at all times with nearly all horses1 and1 except in the show ring or in park riding where they are not considered good form1 ,i think they should be generally used with women's saddles4 ,they hold the saddle in place1 and1 with them1 the girths need not be drawn so tight4 ,illustration3 ,,bits ,,and ,,bridles #a4 ,plain ,snaffle #b4 ,rough ,snaffle #c4 ,chain ,snaffle #d4 ,bouch ,snaffle #e4 ,rough ,snaffle with ,double ,reins #f4 ,double ,ring ,snaffle #g4 ,standing ,martingale #h4 ,bit and ,bridoon with ,halter ,shank attached ,the breastplate not only holds the saddle firmly in place1 but it also keeps it from turning1 prevents the girths from slipping back on the horse's belly1 distributes part of the weight of the saddle on the horse's shoulders instead of having it all on the girths1 and gives the rider a feeling of security and confidence4 ,a few horses have such wide chests and some such tender skins that a breastplate is apt to gall them4 ,the best bits for a woman to use are the curb and snaffle4 ,the curb bit in general use is of the ,weymouth pattern1 as illustrated above 7see cut ,no4 #a1 page #aej74 ,the snaffle is jointed 7see cut ,no4 #ab1 page #aej74 ,most horses go better with a curb bit with a slight port1 such as ,no4 #b1 page #aej1 though personally ,i like the pattern illustrated in ,no4 #a1 same page1 above1 quite as well1 if not better4 ,for horses with very tender mouths or with sore mouths1 the curb bit may be covered with rubber4 ,other horses1 again1 go better with a jointed curb1 and old horses1 whose mouths are so hard that they cannot be brought back to their original condition1 may require the use of a heavy port or other device which will cause them pain when the curb rein is tightened4 ,these various devices are illustrated above4 ,for hunters1 for pullers1 for polo ponies1 and for ,southern gaited horses1 various kinds of bits are used1 but ,i shall not attempt to describe them here4 ,they are fully treated in many of the standard books on riding and do not belong in a book devoted to riding and driving for women4 ,i shall add a few hints1 gleaned largely from my own experience1 which may not be found in other books on the general subject4 ,the normal position of the bit1 whether curb or snaffle1 or both1 is in the space between the teeth called the 8bars10 about two inches below the eyeteeth in the mare and the tushes in the gelding4 ,this brings the curb chain to bear on the sensitive flesh of the lower jaw where the pressure is most effective4 ,if the curb is too high1 the chain bears on the jawbone which1 at that point1 is only covered by skin4 ,this skin readily becomes calloused1 so that the curb chain has almost no effect4 ,if the curb is too low1 the horse will be able to get his tongue over the bit and keep it there1 so that control will be lost and the cheek straps will be too loose1 and the snaffle1 unless it has very large rings1 may be pulled through the horse's mouth4 ,many horses have a bad habit of getting their tongues over the bit4 ,a horse with his tongue in this position is quite uncontrollable1 and he must be broken of the habit at any cost4 ,most horses will be cured by taking up the cheek straps and thus raising the bits in the mouth4 ,this1 however1 may bring the curb chain too high1 as above stated4 ,if it does1 or if this method is not successful1 it may be necessary to resort to one of the patterns of curb bits designed to prevent the horse from getting his tongue over1 such as the gridiron1 ,no4 #ab1 page #aej1 which has a ring which is passed over the horse's tongue4 ,a temporary device which may be used1 except in the show ring1 is to put a rubber band over the port in the curb and around the horse's tongue4 ,it must1 of course1 not be tight or it will stop the circulation1 but it diverts the horse's attention and1 of course1 prevents him from bringing his tongue over the bit4 ,if a horse is inclined to lag1 or go up against the bit1 raise the snaffle in his mouth and lower the curb4 ,in the ordinary adjustment of the bits1 the curb chain should be fastened so that1 when hanging naturally1 you can slip two fingers under the chain without disturbing the position of the bit1 but if the animal has a hard mouth the chain may be tightened enough to give good control4 ,no definite rule can1 of course1 be laid down4 ,beginners1 however1 are particularly cautioned to have their curb chains looser than ,i have indicated1 as1 until they have acquired 8hands0 and have entirely given up the habit of holding on by the reins1 they cannot with safety either to themselves or their horses ride with the chain at all tight4 ,if a horse has been spoiled and his mouth is so calloused or 8hard0 that he cannot be controlled even with a tight curb1 and you still want to ride him1 the chain may be twisted1 or one of the punishing types of bit may be used1 such as those above illustrated 7,nos4 #ai and #bj1 page #aej74 ,twisting the chain or using such a bit will make his mouth all the harder1 but will enable the rider to control him4 ,illustration3 #a4 ,lady's ,cross-,saddle with ,rolls ,illustration3 #b4 ,lady's ,cross-,saddle1 ,plain ,flap ,illustration3 #c4 ,light ,weight ,saddle1 ,flaps ,cut ,forward ,while the ,mexicans and ,indians use very cruel bits and ride only on the curb1 they necessarily ride with light hands2 otherwise they would break the horses' mouths4 ,if a horse pulls more on one side of his mouth than on the other1 drop the bits on the side opposite to that on which he pulls4 ,if horses have had the advantage of proper training and intelligent riding1 they should have no 8mouth tricks10 such as sticking their tongues out on one side4 ,if they are continually fretting with their tongues and lips and heads1 it is probable that there is something the matter with their teeth or that they have some soreness or irritation inside of their mouths4 ,horses do not do things of this kind without cause1 and as soon as anything of this kind is observed the mouth should be thoroughly inspected and steps taken to remedy the trouble immediately4 ,horses often have trouble with their teeth very much as we do4 ,usually a 8vet40 will be able to remedy any condition of that kind1 but if not1 it may be necessary to call in a horse dentist4 ,if trouble of this kind is not attended to1 the symptom may become a habit or a trick very hard to break and result in spoiling a horse's appearance and manners4 ,,chapter ,x ,,the ,,saddle ,,horse ,in writing my description of the lady's saddle horse ,i find that1 of all the horses ,i have ever seen1 ,i have not yet found one that eclipses1 or even equals1 8,lady ,bonnie40 ,i have described her before1 and all the change that is needed is in the tense1 which1 alas6 must now be in the past4 ,when asked for a perfect type of lady's saddle horse1 ,i close my eyes and think of her4 ,she may have had her faults1 but who has not8 ,to my mind she came as near perfection as any horse in the world4 ,her beautiful walk1 perfectly balanced trot1 and straight and delightful canter1 made her a joy to ride4 ,her well-crested1 lengthy neck1 giving room for plenty of rein2 her sloping shoulders and beautifully defined withers meant for keeping the saddle in place2 her back of just the right length to make the saddle look in proportion2 her smoothly turned quarters1 with tail set high1 carrying out the perfection of her top line2 her small head1 wide between the eyes2 her tiny well-set and well-carried ears1 combined with the fineness and beauty of her coat1 like black panne velvet1 completed her magnificent effect of breeding4 ,her intelligence1 her eagerness to do her part1 her great though perfectly tractable spirit1 and her wonderful manners made it a pleasure to know her and a privilege to be her friend4 ,illustration3 ,,champion ,,saddle ,,mare 7,,lady ,,bonnie7 ,illustration3 ,,combination ,,type 7,,lady ,,macdonald7 ,a lady's saddle horse should be of solid color1 black1 chestnut1 bay1 or brown4 ,white pasterns1 or a star or snip of white on the face1 make a very attractive 8trimming up40 ,personally1 ,i do not consider white-legged or bald-faced horses so suitable for women1 because they look 8flashy40 ,while of course color has nothing to do with conformation or the other qualities most to be considered in a lady's saddle horse1 it has everything to do with the points of a horse for the show ring1 where no piebald or flashily marked horse would stand a chance in a ladies' class4 ,illustration3 ,,english ,,type ,,of ,,lady',s ,,park ,,hack ,the only gaits used in the show ring1 and generally for park riding in the ,east1 are the walk1 trot1 and canter4 ,the walk should be quick1 yet without tendency to jigjog2 the trot square1 well balanced1 and with no hint of mixed gaits4 ,there should be plenty of 8all-round action10 of the hocks quite as much as of the knees1 but of course not the 8high action0 of the carriage horse4 ,the canter should be free and easy1 but not too high1 and should always be a canter--not a shuffling go-between1 nor should it be so fast as to border on a run4 ,illustration3 ,,light-,,weight ,,thoroughbred ,,lady',s ,,riding ,,horse 7,,indian ,,flower7 ,the thoroughbred should be the ideal saddle horse1 as he is fashioned by nature for that purpose alone4 ,in ,england this is the type of 8riding horse0 most in vogue1 and in this country he may1 in a few years1 as he already has there1 supplant the park hack type4 ,however delightful he may be in the country or in the hunting-field1 he is not really suitable for park riding1 where a collected trot is essential and where his excitability gives the rider more than she wants4 ,it must be borne in mind that the conditions of riding in ,england are entirely different from what they are in this country4 ,here we ride for exercise2 there they hunt for exercise and ride for rest4 ,therefore1 what they want for riding is a horse with very easy gaits who does not give the rider any exertion4 ,in ,england there is very little riding on hard roads1 as there is here4 ,they almost always ride over turf and they have bridle paths on nearly all the roads4 ,the ,english 8riding horse0 ,i have referred to is a thoroughbred or three-quarter bred1 and the trot is not one of his gaits4 ,his canter is very easy and he gives the ,englishwoman just what she wants in the way of rest and fresh air4 ,with us1 however1 but few women hunt1 and when they ride they want exercise and want1 therefore1 a horse that will give them more to do4 ,they find this in a horse with a good swinging trot1 but they would not find it in the thoroughbred4 ,a very strong strain of thoroughbred blood is needed to produce the best type of saddle horse and1 aside from their suitableness for park riding1 many thoroughbreds1 properly trained and judiciously selected as to conformation1 make horse show winners4 ,riding a thoroughbred is altogether different from riding any other kind of a horse4 ,it is then that all the niceties of the art of riding are called into play1 not so much as regards the seat1 for his gaits are easy1 but the hands must be more than usually light1 more than usually firm1 and more than usually quick in their communication between the mind of the rider and the mouth of the horse4 ,in fact1 ,i am going to say the mind of the horse too1 for of good gray matter the thoroughbred possesses an ample share4 ,thoroughbreds are so excitable and so hot-blooded that only experienced riders with good hands can manage them1 and they are very unsafe for those who have not mastered the art4 ,they are hard to manage when ridden in company with other horses1 and they are so fussy and unreliable that they afford but little pleasure except to an accomplished horsewoman4 ,next in order to the thoroughbred comes the hunter4 ,were ,i limited to one horse ,i would1 of all others1 select the hunter because of his general all-round usefulness4 ,he is thoroughly suitable for park riding1 he can be driven1 he can be hacked1 and his jumping qualities put him in a class by himself4 ,there are so many different types of hunters that one cannot fairly say that any particular type is the best4 ,all depends on the country to be hunted and whether the horse is wanted for hunting only or for general utility as well4 ,illustration3 ,,thoroughbred ,,hunter 7,,sunday ,,morning7 ,probably the best hunters are the ,irish4 ,they are up to more weight1 they have more substance1 greater endurance1 and1 for their own country1 are the safest jumpers in the world4 ,these ,irish hunters have been bred and hunted in ,ireland for generations and are natural born jumpers for banks1 but in ,ireland they do not have fences1 such as we know them1 nor do they have such high jumps in the hunting-field as we have4 ,so ,irish hunters are not suited for hunting in this country until they have been thoroughly trained over our fences4 ,the ,english and the ,canadian hunters are more accustomed to timber and jump higher than the ,irish4 ,illustration3 ,,perfect ,,type ,,of ,,heavy-,,weight ,,thoroughbred ,,riding ,,horse 7,,heartspring7 ,hunting in the vicinity of the great cities of the ,east has changed entirely in this country in the last fifteen years1 and the types of horses that were suited to former conditions are not fast enough and do not jump high enough for the pace we have now4 ,the present tendency in the ,east1 since there are no longer wild foxes to be hunted1 is to turn hunting into steeple-chasing1 and the only horses that will carry their riders fast enough and safely over the courses as they are laid out are thoroughbreds or three-quarter breds4 ,in other parts of the country1 of course1 the country is not so stiff and the thoroughbred type is not essential4 ,in the ,south1 particularly in ,virginia1 the best traditions of the hunting field have been upheld since the earliest times1 and there is the home of the best hunting to be had in this country4 ,there has been as yet no invasion by barbed wire4 ,the country has not been exploited or commercialized1 and the farmers are of an entirely different class from those to be found in the neighborhood of the great cities or in the ,north4 ,as a general rule they are heartily in sympathy with hunting2 many of them follow the hounds and breed hunters1 and even use them on their farms4 ,in fact1 the hunter is the general type of horse to be found throughout that section of the country4 ,illustration3 ,,show ,,winner ,,in ,,park ,,hack ,,classes 7,,sonia7 ,the hunter is the one kind of mount for a woman in which beauty1 though desirable1 is not a requisite4 ,rather does one seek in hunters breeding1 courage1 and intelligence1 and the greatest of these is intelligence4 ,the good hunter will show a long neck1 withers standing well back1 and forelegs well forward of the girth4 ,he should have sloping shoulders and great depth of chest4 ,in fact1 his chest should be so deep that when you look at him his legs should not appear as long as they are4 ,he should have strong quarters1 and there is no valid objection to their being 8ragged10 for he needs great power in his quarters to carry him over the jumps4 ,of course1 one may recall many instances of light-weight thoroughbreds of beautiful conformation who are admirable hunters1 but they cannot be hunted every day over a heavy country4 ,that a hunter is to be ridden by a woman1 is no reason why his appearance should be ladylike4 ,the extra weight of a side-saddle and the unevenness of the distribution of the rider's weight on his back1 make it necessary that a woman's hunter should be quite as large and powerful as a man's4 ,the recognized type of hunter is close to the thoroughbred and quite distinct from the harness horse4 ,without exception1 all hunters have more or less thoroughbred blood1 though sometimes we have to go unexpectedly far back to find it4 ,many of them are three-quarter bred1 and some have as little as one-quarter1 or even an eighth or a sixteenth4 ,as for their blood1 there is no recognized standard of breeding4 ,some of the best jumpers have come from trotting stock1 some from hackney stock1 and some even have appeared1 as it were1 by accident in stock of no recognized breeding at all1 and the qualities that go to make a hunter cannot be found with any certainty through breeding4 ,the principal qualification of a hunter is that he should jump1 and jumping is something that seems to be born in individual horses1 and to depend not so much on their breeding as upon the union of courage with a certain conformation4 ,illustration3 ,,high-,,stepping ,,park ,,hack 7,,roslyn7 ,illustration3 ,,an ,,old-,,fashioned ,,combination ,,type 7,,warwick7 ,the correct type for a park hack is the subject of much diversity of opinion in the show ring as well as in park riding4 ,some judges favor the thoroughbred type1 while some go to the other extreme and favor the harness type4 ,my choice for a park hack is a sort of a 8betwixt-and-between02 a riding horse 8smarter0 and more 8peacocky0 than either the thoroughbred or the ,southern bred saddle horse2 not necessarily bristling with quality1 yet showing plenty of breeding1 and with substance1 style1 and a snappy all-round way of going4 ,in other words1 a horse that fills the eye of the layman by his general showiness1 and yet satisfies his rider by the niceness of his gaits and manners and the feeling of pride on being mounted on something that compels universal admiration4 ,illustration3 ,,combination ,,type 7,,mayo7 ,of late the term 8road hack0 has come into use4 ,this title does not yet denote a definite type4 ,if ,i were attempting to define it ,i should say a horse more like the ,english cob1 low in stature1 not over #ae4a1 but great in substance1 and with beauty somewhat sacrificed to utility4 ,he must be well mannered1 be as willing to stand as he is willing to go1 and should have a fast1 well-balanced trot1 as the hardness of the roads often makes cantering impossible on the highway4 ,he should resemble the park hack1 but should be of a more useful and heavier type1 and if he can jump a bit1 so much the better4 ,in all horse shows there is now a class for what is called the 8combination horse10 a type1 as ,i have heard some people say1 that cannot exist without detriment to either the riding or driving qualities of the animal4 ,with this ,i personally do not agree4 ,i think all saddle horses should be broken to drive1 for there are many occasions when they will be more useful to their owners in harness than under saddle1 and it is far better when one cannot ride to exercise one's saddle horse by driving it to a light trap than to have it ridden by a groom or a stranger4 ,in this country it is almost impossible to find a groom with 8hands10 and one's own saddle horse should be kept for one's own riding exclusively4 ,moreover1 if one has 8hands10 one has them quite as much in driving as in riding1 and the horse will always feel that he is under his mistress's own control4 ,of course one would never think of taking a schooled and beautifully gaited saddle horse and making him into a harness drudge1 but occasional light work in the shafts will do one's horse far more good than harm4 ,while every saddle horse should go well in harness1 it does not follow that every harness horse should go well under saddle1 for the recognized type of harness horse is utterly unsuited to the saddle4 ,it is not a question of training2 no amount of training could make the stiff-necked1 flat-withered1 heavy-shouldered harness type into a saddle horse4 ,he has been bred for generations for dragging and not for carrying1 and he is an entirely distinct type from the saddle horse4 ,so we find that the combination horse ought to be rather a saddle horse that can be driven than a harness horse that can be ridden1 and1 for the show ring1 the ideal combination horse is really a park hack well broken to harness4 ,illustration3 ,,lightfoot1 ,,winner ,,of ,,ladies' ,,saddle ,,class ,,at ,,age ,,of ,,twenty-,,three ,a good polo pony is a treasure in any stable4 ,for a country hack he is excellent1 giving a good ride1 never tiring you1 and never being tired himself4 ,his early training makes him unusually quick to rein and very bridle-wise4 ,once get used to his quickness and you are sure to enjoy him4 ,illustration3 ,,show ,,pony ,the type of polo pony has changed in the last ten years1 as the game is so much faster than it was4 ,formerly the limit of height was fourteen hands4 ,now it is #ad4c4 ,the type used to be a stocky1 rather heavily built pony1 more of the type of an ,english cob with a docked tail1 such as we see in the early polo prints4 ,now they have a great deal of thoroughbred blood and many of them are three-quarter bred1 and have1 of course1 the characteristics of that type4 ,many ponies which are too hot-blooded for use in the polo field1 or who are 8mallet shy10 make ideal riding hacks and are easily broken to harness4 ,such ponies can often be picked up at great bargains and made as useful a pony as one can well have at any price4 ,in these days women are beginning to play polo1 and it goes without saying that there is no difference in the type of polo pony for a woman's use from that for a man's4 ,there is an exceptionally good type of pony which has not appeared to any extent in this country1 commonly known as the ,irish pony4 ,this is a cross between a thoroughbred and a half-bred hackney1 the small size being gained1 of course1 through the hackney cross with the pony4 ,they have much of the fineness of the thoroughbred and a great deal of the substance of the hackney4 ,they have tremendous endurance1 are remarkably good combination horses1 can often jump a bit1 and can be ridden and driven all day long by any lady1 and very often are so gentle that a child can ride them4 ,as a combination pony they cannot be excelled1 and they are particularly useful to help out in a small stable1 as they can be used for station work and for taking the children to the beach1 and all that sort of thing4 ,they are1 however1 very high-priced and hard to pick up at a bargain4 ,illustration3 ,,polo ,,pony ,note the polo costume ,the safest and most reliable pony1 from my experience1 for a child to begin on is an old polo pony which has been ridden for some time by a woman and has not had the excitement of the polo field for many a year4 ,if one wants1 however1 a smaller pony than this for a child1 the best type to my mind is the ,welsh pony4 ,they are far more gentle and better for children's use than the ,shetland pony1 and are much more reliable4 ,i consider the kind of ,shetland pony that one finds in this country a treacherous and stubborn little beast4 ,of course a pure-bred ,shetland pony which has been properly broken is ideal for a child both to ride and to drive1 but the pure-bred ones are kept on the other side4 ,it is almost impossible to find them in this country and very few of them are bred here4 ,my experience with them is that they are not safe for children to ride or drive4 ,of course1 they are so small that if they have a good load behind them and a reliable man to drive them1 they cannot do much harm1 and they certainly have great capacity for work4 ,they live to a great age and require but little care4 ,illustration3 ,,welsh ,,pony4 ,,the ,,best ,,type ,,for ,,children ,,chapter ,,xi ,,the ,,selection ,,of ,a ,,saddle ,,horse ,having decided on the type of horse that one wants1 the next thing is where to find him4 ,one of the most important points to bear in mind1 and one often overlooked in selecting a saddle horse1 is not only that he can be but that he should be becoming to the rider1 and this becomingness depends largely upon the horse and rider being in proper proportion to each other4 ,it is better that the horse should be too large and too heavy rather than too small and too light4 ,for instance1 while a tall woman looks out of proportion on a small horse and a stout woman ridiculous1 a small woman can look smart on a large horse and a woman who weighs little may look well on a weight carrier4 ,still1 other things being equal1 ,i would advise that the choice be given to a horse proportioned to the rider's size and weight4 ,illustration3 ,,kentucky ,,bred ,,lady',s ,,riding ,,horse 7,,dixie7 ,not only the horses themselves but the horse buyers may be divided into classes4 ,there is the green purchaser with plenty of money and the green one with only a hundred or two to spend2 the clever buyer who 8has an eye0 and the buyer who thinks she 8has an eye40 ,the first mentioned should go to a high-class dealer1 rely on his advice1 and thus be sure of getting what she wants as long as she is willing to pay the price4 ,the second ought to find something in the 8practically sound ones0 or among the discarded polo ponies4 ,the clever buyer will fill her wants anywhere1 in the auction marts1 on the stock farms1 at the race track1 or through a casual meeting on the road1 while the one who thinks she 8has an eye0 is a source of profit to others if not to herself4 ,the attitude of the public at large toward the horse dealer is to my thinking most unfair1 for reputable business methods are to be found among them quite as much as in any other business or profession4 ,if the buyer's experience is limited1 there is nothing in which she can be so easily deceived as in a horse4 ,therefore1 ,i strongly advise the novice to go always to a dealer of good standing1 state frankly what she is looking for1 how much she is willing to pay1 and put herself in his hands without affecting knowledge which she lacks4 ,when you go to a dealer of standing you may be confident that having acquired a high reputation he will maintain it1 and will not sell you a horse other than he represents it4 ,if you go to a 8gyp0 dealer you must keep your eyes open and rely on a veterinary of your own selection1 coupled with the advice of some friend who has real knowledge of horses2 otherwise you are putting yourself at the mercy of the kind of man who has given horse-dealers at large the unfair reputation in which they are held by the public4 ,certainly the novice should not expect to get 8something for nothing10 and ,i would strongly advise the buyer to make up her mind that it is better economy in the long run to pay a good price for what she wants than to buy something cheap and in a short time have to sell it for even less than she may have paid4 ,illustration3 ,,points ,,of ,a ,,horse #a--,the ,ear4 #b--,the ,poll4 #c--,the ,forehead4 #d--,the ,nose4 #e--,the ,nostril4 #f--,the ,lip4 #g--,the ,cheek4 #h--,the ,crest4 #i--,side of ,neck4 #aj--,lower ,border of ,neck4 #aa--,the ,shoulder4 #ab--,the ,withers4 #ac--,the ,brisket4 #ad--,the ,arm4 #ae--,the ,forearm4 #af--,the ,elbow4 #ag--,the ,chestnut4 #ah--,the ,knee4 #ai--,the ,canon4 #bj--,the ,fetlock4 #ba--,the ,pastern4 #bb--,the ,coronet4 #bc--,the ,hoof4 #bd--,the ,back4 #be--,the ,loins4 #bf--,the ,croup4 #bg--,the ,buttock4 #bh--,the ,first ,thigh4 #bi--,the ,second ,thigh4 #cj--,the ,gaskin4 #ca--,point of ,hock4 #cb--,the ,inner ,face of ,hock4 #cc--;,hinder ,canon4 #cd--,near ,hind ,fetlock4 #ce--,near ,hind ,pastern4 #cf--,ribs and ,chest ,wall4 #ch--;,inner ,side of ,thigh4 #ci--,throat4 #dj--,top ,line of ,body4 #da--,position of ,ergot on ,fetlock4 #db--,stifle4 ,with regard to the prices charged by reputable dealers1 one must bear in mind the value of a horse's education1 all the chances of sickness and of the development of unsoundness which the dealer has had to take1 the great expense of a dealer's establishment in a large city1 and the many hands through which a horse has probably passed before he has come into the dealer's possession4 ,there is not only the first cost of the horse but also the expense of shipping him from the country--where he was raised--into the city2 the cost of keeping him there until he is conditioned and has passed through the dangers of acclimatization--that is1 sickness caused by change of climate1 of water1 etc4--the risk of breaking him to unaccustomed sights1 and the long period of training and developing into a schooled and mannered saddle horse4 ,illustration3 ,,lady',s ,,western ,,park ,,hack 7,,pink ,,lady7 ,once the type has been decided on1 whether it is a riding horse1 a driving horse1 or a combination horse1 the buyer must next determine whether she knows enough to be able to trust to her own judgment1 and1 if not1 whether she knows some one who has sufficient knowledge to be able to advise her or whether she must rely entirely upon the dealer4 ,she must1 of course1 be sure that any one on whose advice she relies not only has sufficient knowledge but is entirely disinterested4 ,if you decide to rely on a dealer1 it is far the best way to pick out your dealer1 go to him1 and then1 if he has not just what you want1 ask him to get it for you instead of going yourself to other dealers4 ,this not only saves time1 but the dealer has a very much wider choice than you could possibly have yourself1 and it is my experience that by this method you will not have to pay any more than you would if you went straight to the dealer who has the animal that you want4 ,in buying a high-priced horse ,i would be sure that he carried out all the conditions demanded by his type3 that he possessed beauty and good conformation1 that he was free from blemish1 that his manners were perfect1 his disposition good1 and his age not less than five nor more than eight4 ,a horse younger than five is little more than a colt and more liable to injury and blemish than an aged horse1 and eight years is a good boundary age1 not only from a point of usefulness1 but as a matter of investment as well4 ,there is a popular prejudice against paying a big price for an aged horse 78aged0 being the term applied to a horse after his eighth year72 that is1 unless he is a show animal with a list of winnings to his credit and bought to be shown4 ,a horse to have good conformation should show a niceness of proportion in all his parts4 ,conformation in a saddle horse calls for a nice head1 and a long1 flexible1 and crested neck--never a ewe-neck4 ,looking from the withers downward he should present a narrow appearance1 for sharp1 well-defined withers are most necessary for the proper carrying of a side-saddle1 while gradually sloping shoulders hold the saddle in place and go with good gaits and general handiness and quickness4 ,the back should be in proportion to the rest of the horse1 and short rather than long4 ,a very long back is usually a sign of weakness and mars the general appearance1 but nearly as bad is the back that is too short4 ,this is generally accompanied by a very round barrel1 flat withers1 thick shoulders1 and a general undesirable chunkiness4 ,the sway-back and the roach-back must also be rejected4 ,the former makes the proper adjustment of the saddle difficult and gives an awkward 8dipping back feeling0 to the rider1 especially when posting4 ,the roach-back is the other extreme and makes her feel as if she were dipping forward4 ,the barrel should be well ribbed and the quarters must not slope nor the tail be set too low or the top line will be destroyed4 8,manners0 in a horse mean perfection of training1 fearlessness1 and a will subservient to that of the rider1 but do not mean a broken spirit4 ,the spirit should be there1 but it should be under control4 ,when you have found a horse that 8pleases your eye10 have him shown to you at a walk1 trot1 and canter1 which will give you an opportunity of studying his appearance in motion and his manners generally4 ,while at his gaits look at him from in front and from behind as well as from the side2 that is1 have him ridden toward you and away from you as well as past you at all his gaits4 ,have him change from the walk to the canter and see how quickly and readily he changes4 ,have him stand for a few minutes and have him backed for at least six steps1 and then have him ridden a short distance at a fast canter and see how easily he reins down4 ,mount him yourself two or three times4 ,a horse that will not stand quietly and that fusses while you mount and dismount is a nuisance2 backing is a good test for rearing1 and reining in quickly is usually a sign of a light mouth4 ,never buy a puller2 they are ruination to hands1 pleasure1 and temper2 so see that the horse you are looking at is bitted lightly1 that he wears the ordinary double bridle with curb bit and bridoon1 and that the curb chain is not fastened too tight4 ,beware of animals that are shown to you with tight nosebands and tight curb chains1 spoon bits1 gag snaffles1 etc41--these are signs of 8pullers40 ,equally bad is the horse with no mouth at all1 for he is often a rearer or a jibber4 ,i like to see a horse trained to be ridden with an even pressure on both curb and snaffle1 as described in the chapter on hands4 ,while the horse is being ridden for you to look at1 watch closely how he handles himself2 see that his walk is free1 his trot bold and well balanced1 and his action true all-round4 ,by this ,i mean that his hock action must be in keeping with his front action4 ,a high-stepping horse will give you a good ride if he uses his hocks equally well1 but a horse that is high-going in front and stiff and draggy in the hocks is impossible4 ,see that he neither 8dishes out0 nor 8paddles10 and that he does not travel so closely that there is danger of his crossing his legs4 ,avoid the horse that stretches too far in front and 8points0 or 8dwells10 for1 except to a very good rider1 these variations of the gait are uncomfortable4 ,they also count against a horse in the show ring4 ,his training and the trueness of his way of going having been proved1 he must next be tried for courage4 ,if in the city1 have him ridden past automobiles1 trolley cars1 steam drills1 and elevated roads2 if in the country1 past automobiles1 railroad trains1 mowing machines1 steam rollers1 or any unusual or noisy object1 and in both city and country see that he minds strange sounds1 such as automobile horns1 steam whistles1 etc41 no more than strange sights4 ,the trial having gone satisfactorily thus far1 have him saddled with your own saddle and before mounting1 ask the owner for points on the best way of riding him4 ,different horses have different little peculiarities1 and may have been taught by various signals4 ,the person who has had experience with that particular animal can give you valuable hints as to his training and the signals for changing gaits1 etc41 to which he is accustomed4 ,the horse being now ready for you1 mount him and start him off quietly2 first walk him1 then try his trot and his canter1 and if the gaits prove pleasant the next step is the 8vetting40 ,stallions1 even the most tractable of them1 are not suitable for women either to ride or drive4 ,the choice of a horse should therefore be confined to mares and geldings4 ,there are many who consider the gelding preferable to the mare1 but with this ,i do not quite agree4 ,the mare has a peculiar lightness of foot1 vivacity1 and lan which are seldom if ever found in the gelding4 ,,riding ,,and ,,driving ,,for ,,women ,,part ,,ii--,,driving ,,chapter ,,xii ,,form ,before stepping into the trap1 the horsewoman should make it a habit to inspect the horse1 harness1 and trap1 and see that everything is as it should be3 that the horse is properly put to1 that the bit is right1 that the girths are neither too tight nor too loose1 that the traces are neither too long nor too short1 and if there is a stop on the shaft that it is just back of the tug4 ,be sure also that the trap is properly turned out1 that the rubbers are in1 that there is no accumulation of dust1 that the nuts on the wheels are tight1 and that every detail has been properly attended to4 ,not only is this a wise precaution to use with hired traps1 but it shows your own coachman that you know what you are about1 and it keeps him up to his work4 ,having made this inspection1 which ought really to be done at a glance1--except that a careful examination should always be made of the horse's head to be sure that the curb chain is neither too loose nor too tight1 the bit not too far up nor too far down1 and the mouthpiece the width of the horse's mouth--neither too wide nor too narrow--and that the check or bearing rein1 if one is used1 is not too tight1--the next thing is to step into the trap4 ,if you are driving a lady's trap1 such as a ,george ,,iv1 a ,peters'1 or a basket phaeton1 the groom who has driven the trap up from the stable should1 before getting out1 have left the reins across the middle of the dash with the end of the reins on the seat1 and the whip to the left of the reins1 leaning against the seat and pointing to the rear4 ,the groom should then stand at the horse's head4 ,you should step into the trap with the left foot1 putting the right foot on the step1 then sit down1 and at the same time gather the reins in the left hand and the whip in the right4 ,illustration3 ,,george ,,iv ,,phaeton ,note that the horse is too large for the trap ,illustration3 ,,inspection ,,of ,,the ,,harness ,illustration3 ,,getting ,,length ,,of ,,the ,,reins ,if you are driving a runabout or a cart1 or any other than a distinctly lady's trap1 the groom should leave the whip in the socket and should pass the reins doubled through the off terret of the pad from rear to front in such a way that the buckle end of the reins will hang even with the loop4 ,you should go to the off-side of the horse and draw the reins through the terret with the left hand2 then take the reins in the right hand1 the near rein under the forefinger and the off rein under the third finger1 with the ends coming out between the thumb and forefinger4 ,then you take the reins just beyond the right hand in the left1 the near rein between the thumb and forefinger and the off rein between the second and third fingers1 the ends passing down the palm of the hand and out by the little finger4 ,then step back until you are opposite the dash1 letting the reins slip through both hands1 and then1 with the right hand1 pull them through the left a little more until they are at the length which they will be when you are in the seat1 and very lightly feel the horse's mouth4 ,then take the whip out of the socket with the right hand and transfer the reins to the right hand in the same position as ,i have described above1 and step into the trap4 ,take hold of the dash with the right hand1 and put the right foot on the step and step into the trap with the left foot1 and if necessary assist yourself by placing the left hand on the seat when you are in the act of stepping in4 ,sit down on the driving seat and take the reins in the left hand in the position described above1 keeping the whip in the right hand4 ,so far1 exactly the same things are done whether you are driving a pair or a single horse4 ,with a pair you should not have the whip laid across the horses' backs1 as you would in driving four4 ,illustration3 ,,stepping ,,into ,,the ,,trap ,for ladies' traps ,i prefer the square1 almost level driving cushion to the slanting one1 as it is more comfortable and gives a woman a more distinctive appearance4 ,for country traps1 and particularly for high carts1 a slanting cushion may be more suitable4 ,illustration3 8,,orthodox0 ,,position ,,of ,,reins ,,and ,,whip ,when driving1 it is most important that a woman should sit correctly4 ,she should hold herself erect1 without stiffness2 her feet should be together and her knees slightly bent4 ,she should neither sit with her knees straight nor1 what is worse1 be perched on the edge of the seat with her feet back2 she should never while driving loll against the back of the seat1 and she should look as though she were driving and not as if she were being driven4 ,illustration3 8,,modern0 ,,position ,,of ,,reins ,,with ,,loop ,there are only two correct ways to hold the reins when driving1 and so many people hold them incorrectly that ,i will describe them in detail4 ,the two reins should always be held in the left hand1 the near rein between the thumb and forefinger1 the off rein between the second and third fingers1 and the ends passing down and out by the little finger4 ,the reins should be gripped by the fingers holding the edges of the reins against the cushion of the hand1 and should not be held by squeezing the flat surfaces of the reins between the fingers1 and they should be held tightly enough so that they will not slip1 but not so tightly as to cramp and tire the fingers4 ,holding the reins in this way1 well down into the fingers and as close to the knuckles as possible1 insures a firm grip and makes it easy to guide to the right or the left by merely turning the back of the hand down or up4 ,the left upper arm should be vertical1 the left forearm horizontal1 the hand turned in at the wrist1 and held about six or eight inches in front of the body4 ,the right hand should be held in a corresponding position about four or five inches from the left hand4 ,the whip should be balanced in the palm of the right hand1 passing between the thumb and forefinger so as to leave all the fingers free to grasp the reins if need be4 ,it should be carried at an angle of forty-five degrees1 and point toward the left and front4 ,the lash of the whip1 for single and pair horse driving1 should always be free4 ,the theory of correct driving is that the left hand is to hold the reins1 the right hand to hold the whip and to assist the left hand in shortening the reins and in turning and stopping4 ,the method of holding the reins in the left hand1 and keeping the right hand only to assist the left1 as ,i have described1 is that laid down by nearly all the recognized authorities on driving1#a and for convenience ,i will call it the orthodox method4 ,footnote #a3 8,driving ,as ,i ,have ,found ,it10 by ,frank ,swales1 pp4 #id-ajj2 8,how ,to ,drive10 by ,captain ,morley-,knight1 pp4 #bd-bh4 ,illustration3 ,,correct ,,position ,,for ,,shortening ,,reins ,a variation on this method has1 however1 been introduced recently1 and is now generally adopted by many of the best whips1 both in ,england and this country1 and is almost universally used in the show ring1 where it is considered the correct form4 ,for convenience ,i shall refer to this as the modern method4 ,in this method1 while the reins are held in the left hand as ,i have described1 the off rein is allowed to slip through the second and third fingers about five or six inches1 and is held in the right hand1 passing under the little finger and coming out between the first and second fingers4 ,the right hand is held about three or four inches from the left and symmetrically to it2 the portion of the reins between the right and left hand is slightly loose4 ,the whip is held in the right hand exactly as ,i have described1 so that the forefinger of the right hand is extended and the other three fingers closed on the rein1 the third finger and little finger holding it tightly and the second finger loosely4 ,the reins are habitually held in this way1 and the horse is guided to the right by pulling with the right hand on the off rein1 and is guided to the left by turning the back of the left hand up and1 if necessary1 moving the right hand slightly forward and the left hand slightly back1 so as to loosen the off rein and tighten the near rein4 ,if1 however1 when driving in this way any occasion arises for using the whip1 the off rein must be first shortened in the left hand by pushing it through the second and third fingers from the front with the right hand4 ,the right hand then lets go of the off rein and the whip is used as ,i have described4 ,this method of driving is now taught by the best professionals4 ,it looks smarter than the other method1 and when the reins are held in this way the horse is under better control1 and can be turned more quickly and at a proper angle1 and with less apparent movement of the hand1 and with well-trained and properly bitted horses it is probably the best method to adopt4 ,but with green or ill-trained horses it is not an advisable method1 because it takes a little longer to shorten the reins than the orthodox method1 where the right hand is free and can immediately be placed in front of the left4 ,whether both hands are on the reins or not1 the reins should always measure the same length and should never be allowed to slip through the fingers4 ,the horse's head should always be kept straight1 and to do this the hands must be held level4 ,the whip must always be held in the right hand2 the horse must never be touched with the whip while the right hand is on the reins4 ,the whip should be used sparingly1 and it is much more likely to be too much used than too little4 ,it is used more in driving a pair than in driving a single horse1 as one horse often lags behind the other and it may be necessary to use it on him to keep him up1 though this should be done rather by proper bitting than by the use of the whip4 ,before using a whip1 however1 for punishment1 be sure you hold the reins firmly in the left hand and that the horse is well gathered1 otherwise he will start forward when you whip him and may get away from you4 ,in fact1 it is most important always to gather the reins well in the left hand before even touching your horse with the whip1 as otherwise you will have the horse going in a series of jumps1 which is not only very bad form but uncomfortable for every one in the trap4 ,i cannot insist too strongly on the necessity of having both reins securely held in the left hand and the horse well gathered before using the whip1 for if you touch the horse with the whip with the off rein in the right hand1 you are sure to slacken that rein and thus cause the horse to turn to the left4 ,moreover1 if the horse starts1 you are not in a position to control him4 ,to pull horses up and to stop them1 you must first see that the reins are held evenly in the left hand2 then place the right hand as far in front of the left as may be necessary4 ,if you know that the horse has a hard mouth and does not stop readily1 the right hand must be a foot or even more in front of the left1 while with a horse that is light mouthed and stops quickly it should be only a few inches4 ,the right hand is placed over both reins--some separate the reins by the third and little fingers1 others put the little finger on top of both reins--and the left hand is raised and carried forward1 at the same time the right hand is brought back so as to bring the left hand above and directly over the right4 ,the horse should not1 of course1 be reined in with any sudden jerk1 but only by a gentle and gradually increasing pressure1 which is accomplished much more easily by this method of laying the right hand on the reins than it could be by pulling the reins with the arms or body4 ,illustration3 ,,pulling ,,up ,nothing looks worse or is such bad form1 in stopping horses1 as to pull the reins in toward the body1 as is so often done by those who do not understand driving4 ,not only does this look badly1 but it is dangerous1 for it leaves the driver with no control whatever over the horses as soon as her hands come up to her body4 ,there is no way by which she can take up any more slack except by leaning so far back that she looks as if she were falling over backward4 ,in the correct method of stopping1 which ,i have described1 if not enough slack has been taken up at first1 more can be taken by simply slipping the right hand further along the reins and carrying the left hand higher and more to the front1 and throughout the whole operation the two hands should not be carried further to the rear than they were when you began4 ,while this is1 and always has been1 the correct method of pulling up1 it is astonishing how few remember to use it1 even in classes in the show ring1 where driving counts4 ,another great advantage of this method is that it is very similar to that used in pulling up a tandem or a four1 and it is best to acquire the habit of correct driving for a single horse and for a pair1 which will not have to be altered when you take up driving four-in-hand and tandem4 ,if you wish to turn to the left1 when driving with what ,i have called the orthodox method1 you should take the near rein in the right hand between the second and third fingers a few inches in front of the left hand and pull gently with the right hand1 keeping the left hand as it was or advancing it slightly so as to loosen the off rein2 then1 as the horse is completing the turn1 gradually relax the hold with the right hand1 and when the turn is finished let go with the right hand4 ,in turning to the right the off rein should be gathered in the right hand under the little finger1 a few inches in front of the left1 and the horse pulled to the right by the right hand similarly to the way ,i have described for turning to the left4 ,in both the 8orthodox0 and 8modern0 methods1 to shorten the reins in order to keep horses under better control or to slow them down1 the reins must first be evenly held in the left hand2 then the right hand is placed in front of the left1 the off rein under the little finger1 the near rein between the first and second fingers1 and the reins are then grasped firmly in the right hand and drawn back and pushed through the left hand4 ,it is bad form1 in shortening the reins1 to take the reins behind the left hand and pull them through with the right1 though through carelessness many do it4 ,if there is occasion to shorten the reins more than a few inches1 instead of pushing through1 let go with the left hand and again grasp the reins with the left hand in front of the right1 and then1 if necessary1 continue to pull in hand over hand4 ,if in the act of turning a corner1 or making any turn1 there should be occasion to use the whip1 as sometimes happens1 particularly in pair driving1 a 8point0 may be taken on the rein on the side toward which the turn is being made3 thus1 if turning to the left1 take the near rein in the right hand between the first and second fingers and loosen the hold of the left thumb on the near rein for a moment1 carry the right hand up to the left hand1 and then place the thumb on the rein so as to form a loop1 then let go with the right hand4 ,this leaves the right hand free to use the whip1 and holds the near rein sufficiently to keep the horse turning4 ,if there is too much pressure1 relax the left thumb and let the loop slip a little4 ,similarly1 in turning to the right1 grasp the off rein under the little finger of the right hand and push it back1 letting it slip between the second and third fingers of the left hand until a loop is formed to the rear of the fingers1 then close the left thumb on this loop and let go with the right hand1 which is then free as before4 ,this loop1 if too much rein has been taken up1 can be allowed to slip through the fingers of the left hand as much as may be necessary4 ,in making a turn it is not under any circumstances advisable to use the whip while either rein is in the right hand2 it is much better not to use the whip until the turn is completed4 ,illustration3 ,,basket ,,phaeton ,,george ,,iv ,,basket ,,phaeton ,,cut-,,under ,,lady',s ,,trap ,,george ,,iv ,,phaeton ,,peters' ,,phaeton ,,runabout ,,styles ,,of ,,ladies' ,,traps1 ,,country ,,and ,,town ,to lengthen the reins1 do not let them slip through the left hand1 but take them in the right hand1 the off rein under the little finger1 and the near rein between the second and third fingers immediately in front of the left hand2 then close the fingers of the right hand on the reins1 relax the fingers of the left hand1 and pull the reins through the left hand with the right as far as may be necessary4 ,letting the reins slip through the left hand without the assistance of the right1 as ,i described1 is bad form1 and is unsafe1 because they may not slip evenly and they might well slip too much4 ,besides that1 in driving spirited horses it is most important to have an even pressure on the bits and to feel their mouths all the time4 ,if the reins are allowed to go1 even for a moment1 as they would be in letting them slip through the left hand without the assistance of the right1 the horses would know it and be very apt to start and even to run4 ,all that ,i have said above with regard to the management of the reins1 applies equally to the driving of a pair or of a single horse4 ,it does not apply to the driving of roadsters or trotting horses1 as they are differently trained and driven in an entirely different method4 ,in learning to drive1 unless one is being taught by a professional or other experienced whip1 ,i would rather advise beginning with the 8orthodox0 method1 and thus learning thoroughly the correct fundamental principles of driving1 which are the same in both methods4 ,the 8modern0 is simply a variation on the 8orthodox10 and the danger of beginning with the 8modern0 method is that with the off rein held in the right hand1 as ,i have described on page #aii1 the beginner may fall into the very incorrect1 though common1 method of holding a rein in each hand1 and so not have the right hand constantly in readiness to assist the left in shortening the reins1 in pulling up1 in turning1 and in the use of the whip4 ,the reins should never under any circumstances be held separately1 one in each hand1 for1 obviously1 if they are1 the right hand cannot assist the left1 the whip cannot be used1 the horses can only be pulled up to the extent of the distance of the two hands in front of the body1 and it is impossible to keep an even pressure on both reins2 one hand will always pull more than the other4 ,holding a rein in each hand violates the first and fundamental principle of correct driving--that the two reins must at all times be held firmly in the left hand4 ,it is needless to add that the horse must never1 under any circumstances1 be struck with the reins4 ,when starting1 the horses should first be gathered well in hand1 and then1 at the moment of starting1 given their heads by carrying the hands forward4 ,many drivers make the mistake of trying to start the horses by pulling them back instead of giving them their heads4 ,illustration3 ,,starting ,if you are driving in the afternoon1 and there is any chance of your being out after dark1 you should always be sure that the lamps are on the trap and that they have new candles2 also1 in country driving1 be sure at all times that there are tools under the seat1 including a wrench1 a hoof pick1 and matches4 ,in using the whip never strike a horse in front of the pad1 or on his belly or legs1 but always on his quarters1 and do not use the whip unnecessarily or keep up a constant tapping on the horse4 8,tapping0 is a very bad habit1 into which many people fall1 and it completely spoils a horse1 as he becomes so accustomed to the whip that it produces no effect on him unless used with violence1 which should seldom1 if ever1 be necessary4 ,if your horse is lazy1 instead of constantly tapping him1 give him one vigorous lash1 and accompany it by a decisive tone of the voice4 ,a few repetitions of this will1 almost always1 cure his laziness1 and presently the voice alone will be sufficient4 8,tapping0 will only make the horse more confirmed in his laziness4 ,in driving1 if your horse shies1 you should never whip him2 you must keep control of him by a firm hold of the reins1 and if possible drive him quietly up to the object that he is afraid of and make him pass it1 and if practicable make him pass it two or three times until he has forgotten his fear4 ,you must have the right hand in readiness to pull hard on the rein opposite to the side toward which he is shying1 so as to avoid his overturning the trap1 which1 incidentally1 is another demonstration of the importance of using the correct method4 ,if your horse rears1 give him his head immediately by loosening the reins1 and urge him forward with voice or whip1 or both if necessary4 ,if he becomes uncontrollable and rears over backward1 spring out of the trap on the side opposite to that on which his legs are1 keeping a firm hold of the reins1 and1 as quickly as you can1 sit on his head4 ,do not let him attempt to get up until he is clear of the trap4 ,in driving1 particularly with a single horse1 the greatest danger is from kicking1 for once your horse begins to kick you are in great danger in any kind of a trap1 except a breaking cart1 where the distance between the driver and the horse is so great that he can kick freely without touching the body of the cart4 ,of course no woman should knowingly drive a kicking horse1 and if there is any question about it she should always take the precaution to use a kicking strap4 ,a kicking strap cannot1 however1 be used in the show ring1 but generally its use on other occasions is advisable4 ,a kicking strap1 fitting tightly when the horse is standing1 of course effectually prevents a horse from kicking1 as he cannot kick without first raising his quarters4 ,the kicking strap1 to be of real service1 must be very strong4 ,bad accidents have happened through the kicking strap breaking1 and a horse in the act of raising his quarters to kick has great power4 ,in driving green horses single1 it is much safer to use a high cart than any kind of a four-wheel trap4 ,with a cart1 the horse cannot1 of course1 cramp the wheel1 and in a high cart there is much less danger from his kicking4 ,illustration3 ,,pulling ,,reins ,,through ,,terret ,,after ,,pulling ,,up ,to get out of a trap when you have no groom1 first lay the whip on the seat pointing toward the back of the trap1 then place the reins in the right hand1 taking them up enough to feel the horse's mouth4 ,grasp the dash with the right hand and step out of the trap backward1 with the right foot on the step1 the left foot coming first to the ground2 then step forward until opposite the pad and put the reins through the off terret in the position described on page #aig4 ,when1 however1 a servant is in attendance1 he should1 as soon as you pull up1 stand at the horse's head2 you then simply drop the reins with the left hand so that they lie over the dash2 either lay the whip1 as above described1 to the left of the reins pointing to the rear1 or else place it in the socket2 then step out of the trap1 facing forward1 the left foot on the step4 ,the servant then steps into the trap on the same side on which you have stepped out4 ,if the horse will not stand1 it is quite correct to step out forward1 keeping the reins in the left hand1 and then to hand them to the servant when you have reached the ground1 having first laid the whip on the seat pointing to the rear4 ,if you are driving a phaeton with a servant on the rumble1 he should jump out as you begin to pull up and run to the horse's head4 ,if1 however1 your horse is very nervous and will not stand1 it is quite correct to have the servant stay on the rumble1 and then1 after you have pulled up1 to pass the reins back to him on your left side4 ,then place the whip in the socket and step out1 facing forward4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,four-,,in-,,hand ,,and ,,tandem ,,driving ,as this book is limited in its scope to riding and driving for women1 ,i shall not attempt to discuss four-in-hand and tandem driving in detail1 and for a very exhaustive work on four-in-hand driving1 would refer the reader to 8,a ,manual of ,coaching10 by ,fairman ,rogers 7,philadelphia1 ,j4 ,b4 ,lippincott ,co41 #aijj71 and to 8,driving for ,pleasure10 by ,frank ,underhill 7,d4 ,appleton1 #ahig74 ,one of the best short books on the technique of driving is 8,hints on ,driving10 by ,captain ,c4 ,morley-,knight1 ,r4,a4 7,george ,bell ,sons1 ,london1 #ahie74 ,chapter ,,vi of that book describes in detail the method of holding and shortening the reins in four-in-hand driving1 and chapter ,x the same problem in tandem driving4 ,like other ,english authorities1 he1 however1 gives quite a different position for the right hand in tandem driving from that in four-in-hand driving1 while the chief ,american writers1 and nearly all the best whips of my acquaintance1 advocate and use substantially the same position of the right hand in both4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,perfectly ,,appointed ,,road ,,coach ,,with ,,postilion 7,,london-,,brighton1 #aijg7 ,illustration3 ,,position ,,of ,,four-,,in-,,hand ,,and ,,tandem ,,reins ,,in ,,left ,,hand #a4 ,near lead rein #b4 ,off lead rein #c4 ,near wheel rein #d4 ,off wheel rein ,before beginning to drive either tandem or four-in-hand1 it is absolutely essential that you become proficient in handling the whip1 and ,i would strongly advise learning to 8catch a thong10 by daily practice1 either outside on the ground1 or1 better still1 on the box of the coach or driving seat of the cart1 of course without the horses4 ,by so doing one can concentrate one's mind upon the thong without being distracted with the management of the reins and the movement of the horses4 ,the best and clearest description which ,i have found in any work is in chapter ,,xx of 8,the ,private ,stable10 by ,james ,a4 ,garland 7,little1 ,brown ,co41 ,boston1 #aijc71 and in describing how to catch a double thong ,i cannot do better than to quote what he says on pages #edf and #edg3 ,illustration3 ,,four-,,in-,,hand ,,harness 8,hold the whip horizontally in front of you with the end of the thong held between the handle of the whip and your fingers4 ,face a wall or the side of a building and with the quill end of the whip describe a letter 8,s0 backward4 ,begin with the lower tail of the letter1 following its form to the upper end4 ,don't move the arm1 keep the elbow easily by the side1 and direct the movement of the whip by turning the wrist4 ,continue to increase the speed until the thong falls in place4 ,at first a short downward movement at the end will facilitate the accomplishment of this somewhat difficult feat4 8,another method is to catch the thong over the head instead of in front or to the side4 ,this is done virtually by the same movement1 the imaginary letter 8,s0 being horizontally overhead instead of vertically in front or to one side4 8,still another method involves a new movement4 ,hold the whip with the right hand against the waist and the quill end well around to the left and on a line with the top of the head4 ,carry the stick at this angle around to the right until in a line with the right shoulder4 ,in so doing raise the right hand gradually4 ,now drop the quill end of the whip until it is on a line with the handle4 ,this last movement should be executed quickly so that the end of the stick strikes the thong on the right-hand side of the stick4 8,when the thong is caught1 it is wound around the stick in opposite directions4 ,the lower end should be unwound with the right hand1 the whip being held between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand4 ,the end of the thong should be rewound in the same direction as the upper part and held in place by the right hand4 ,the loop should be about two feet and a half long and caught on the quill part of the stick40 ,not until you are proficient enough to catch the thong with certainty should you attempt to drive either four-in-hand or tandem1 and you will find1 the moment that you take the reins in your hands and start to drive1 that it will be far more difficult to catch the thong than when you could give it your undivided attention4 ,moreover1 it is vastly more difficult to catch the thong in a wind1 or under trees or other obstacles1 than when learning in the stable1 and constant practice is required to keep one's hand in4 ,illustration3 ,,winding ,,lash ,,after ,,catching ,,thong #a4 ,near lead rein #b4 ,off lead rein #c4 ,near wheel rein #d4 ,off wheel rein ,i shall not attempt to describe how the horses should be put to a coach or a tandem1 for to do so would be to go far beyond the scope of this book1 so ,i shall assume that the coach or cart1 as the case may be1 is correctly appointed and the horses properly put to4 ,illustration3 ,photograph by the ,national ,news ,association ,,measuring ,,the ,,reins ,note correct tailor costume ,to quote further from ,mr4 ,garland's work3 8,in taking up the reins stand about two feet from the pad of the off wheeler4 ,remove the reins from the pad terret or trace tug and allow them to fall to the ground4 8,first take up the near lead rein with the left hand1 placing the little1 second1 and middle fingers under the rein4 ,drop the left hand to the side1 allowing the reins to slip through the fingers4 ,tighten the fingers over the rein at this point4 ,now raise the left hand and place the little and second fingers under the off lead rein4 ,drop the hand to the side as before4 ,the parts where the reins are joined should hang evenly in front of the left hand4 ,the reins may be adjusted by taking the rein that is to be drawn out between the middle and index fingers of the right hand4 ,the reins should now be transferred into the right hand1 separated by the middle finger4 8,take up the wheel reins in the left hand1 separating them with the middle finger1 the near wheel rein on top4 ,drop the left hand to the side as described in the preceding paragraph4 ,now raise the hand and adjust the reins1 with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand1 so that the buckles on the wheel reins hang evenly4 8,pass the lead reins into the left hand1 the near rein over the index finger and the off lead rein under the index finger and on top of the near wheel rein4 8,when taking up the reins1 draw each in turn gently through the terrets1 tight enough merely to #8feel' the bit without causing the horse to flex his neck or make any backward movement4 8,step back to the wheelers' hocks1 and1 keeping the left hand against the body1 take the reins with the right hand in the same order as they are in the left hand4 ,with the right hand close in front of the left one1 draw the reins through the fingers of the left hand as far as the right arm can be extended1 and then remove the right hand4 8,as soon as this is done1 take the whip in the right hand from the foot-board 7if a tandem71 or from the backs of the wheelers 7if a four-in-hand71 and transfer the reins into the right hand in the same order as they were held in the left hand4 ,the reins are now to one side and out of your way in mounting4 8,place your left foot on the hub1 your right on the roller-bolt1 then the left foot on the body step1 and the right one on the foot-board4 ,take your seat as soon as possible and transfer the reins back into the left hand in the original order40 ,a reference to the accompanying sketches on pages #bai and #bbb will show the positions of the hands and reins quite clearly4 ,the correct position of the feet1 legs1 body1 arms1 and hands are the same as already described on page #aih in the notes on driving a single horse or a pair4 ,illustration3 ,,lady',s ,,four-,,in-,,hand ,note correct position of reins and hands ,to start a four-in-hand1 the horses should1 before starting1 be well up in their collars1 so that the traces are taut4 ,the leaders' reins should be shortened by grasping them in the right hand1 separated by the middle finger1 about a foot in front of the left hand and replacing them in the left by carrying the right hand behind the left4 ,take off the brake as quietly as possible1 then advance the right hand1 put the little and second fingers over the two off reins with the middle and index fingers so placed over the two near reins that the latter may be grasped4 ,when you are sure that the four horses are feeling the bit and they are well together1 drop and advance the hands1 and at the same time give the horses a signal2 at the same moment the grooms let go their heads1 and the horses should all start together4 ,once the horses are in motion together1 bring the left hand up into its position near the centre of the waist1 and1 removing the right hand from the reins1 hold it slightly in advance of the left4 ,to quote again from ,mr4 ,garland3 8,to shorten or lengthen the lead reins1 place the middle finger of the right hand between the lead reins directly or at some little distance in front of the left hand1 depending upon how much the lead reins are to be taken up or lengthened4 ,if you wish to lengthen them1 tighten the fingers of the right hand and draw the reins out to the desired distance4 ,should you wish to shorten the lead reins1 take them out of the left hand1 and in putting them back bring the left hand behind the right one4 ,do not advance the left hand4 8,to lengthen or shorten the wheel reins1 place the right hand under the lead reins and grasp the wheel reins in the same manner as described for taking up the lead reins4 ,the wheel reins can now be either pushed back or drawn through the fingers of the left hand4 8,,to ,,straighten ,,the ,,team 8,should the leaders work over to the right of the wheelers1 grasp the two reins1 which are between the second and middle fingers of the left hand1 between the middle and index fingers of the right hand4 ,draw these reins 7the off lead and the near wheel7 out a little1 and it will be seen that it has the effect of bringing the team into line4 ,should the leaders work over to the left of the wheelers1 instead of drawing the centre reins out1 work them a little further back through the fingers of the left hand4 8,,stopping 8,when it is desired to stop the team1 raise the left hand1 and1 placing the right hand over the reins1 twelve inches in front of the left hand1 as described in a preceding paragraph1 press the reins in toward the body with the right hand4 8,,turning 8,to turn to the right1 shorten the leaders' reins so that the lead bars hang slack1 and place the little1 second1 and middle fingers over the off lead rein about five inches in front of the left hand 7depending upon how sharp a turn you desire to make74 ,draw the off lead rein back over the forefinger of the left hand1 first raising the left thumb4 ,whenever you think you have shortened the rein sufficiently1 drop the thumb on the loop thus made4 ,illustration3 ,,lady',s ,,four-,,in-,,hand ,,turning ,,to ,,the ,,right ,note position of hands 8,place the right hand over the off reins and be ready to grasp the off wheel rein from the inside with the little and second fingers1 should the off wheeler fail to follow the off leader in making the turn4 ,at the same time place the middle finger of the right hand between the near wheel and the near lead rein with the forefinger over the latter1 and thus be ready to exert opposition should the horses on the near side turn too quickly4 ,by placing the middle finger between the lead reins they may be operated separately or together4 8,it will be seen that the wheelers may be drawn back together at any time in making the turn4 ,as soon as the turn has been completed1 lift the left thumb and let out the loop of the off lead rein2 then1 after giving the leaders more rein1 let the hands resume the position shown on page #bch4 8,to turn to the left1 shorten the leaders' rein so that the lead bars hang slack1 and place the little1 second1 and middle fingers over the near lead rein about five inches in front of the left hand 7depending upon how sharp a turn you wish to make74 ,draw the near lead rein back over the forefinger of the left hand1 first raising the thumb4 ,whenever you think you have shortened the rein sufficiently1 drop the thumb on the loop thus made4 ,grasp the off lead rein with the little and second fingers of the right hand and insert the middle finger between the off and near wheel reins4 ,the near wheeler may be made to follow the near leader by tightening the near wheel rein with the middle and forefingers4 ,opposition may be exerted on each or both off reins1 or the wheelers may be drawn back together4 ,when the turn has been made1 drop the loop and1 after giving the leaders more rein1 allow the hands to resume the position shown on page #bch4 8,,turning ,,acute ,,angles 8,in turning an acute angle to the right1 take up the leaders as has been previously described4 ,then with the right hand reach over the lead reins1 and1 grasping the near wheel rein with the little1 second1 and middle fingers1 bring it up to the left of the lead rein and back over the index finger of the left hand1 dropping the rein down in front of and around the thumb1 in such a manner that the rein will be held in place by the fleshy part of the thumb near the wrist4 ,now make a ten-inch loop with the off lead rein1 holding the loop in place with the thumb1 and1 reaching under the lead reins1 make1 in a similar manner1 a point with the off wheel rein4 ,after the turn is made1 first drop the points1 then the opposition over the thumb1 and finally let out your leaders4 8,in turning an acute angle to the left1 first take up the leaders1 then place the right hand under the off lead rein1 and push back toward the body the off wheel rein through the fingers of the left hand1 and make the two points with the near lead and wheel reins4 ,after the turn has been made1 draw out the off wheel rein with the right hand until the buckles on the hand pieces are even4 ,then let out the off wheel rein and the two points as described in preceding paragraph4 8,in turning a right angle1 as from an avenue into a street1 make the point1 i4e41 loop1 over the forefinger when the leaders' forefeet have reached the corner4 8,in going downhill1 take up your leaders so that the lead bars hang slack1 and then shorten all four reins4 8,if your reins become misplaced1 keep your team going1 unless approaching or on a sharp decline4 ,under the latter conditions1 have the servants run to the horses' heads and bring them to a stop as quickly as possible4 ,it is much easier to readjust the reins when the horses are going than to try to stop them4 ,find the lead reins and take them in the right hand with the middle finger between them1 then with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand place the wheel reins in their proper position1 and when this is accomplished return the lead reins to the left hand4 ,remember the off rein belongs on top of the near ones40 ,illustration3 ,,high ,,tandem ,,cart ,what has been said and quoted above relates more particularly to four-in-hand driving1 but the principles of tandem driving are the same1 except that it must be borne in mind that to drive tandem requires far lighter hands and more quickness and skill on the part of the driver than it does to drive a four4 ,there is1 of course1 nothing to steady the tandem leader and1 in cases where in driving a four-in-hand it would be necessary to make and hold a point--as1 for instance1 in turning a corner--with a tandem it will often only be necessary to touch the leader's rein4 ,remember1 also1 that the wheeler is only too apt to turn the moment he sees the leader turn1 and it is often necessary to steady the wheeler by a pressure on the opposition rein1 and1 if he has a hard mouth or a sluggish one1 it may even be necessary to make an opposition point to prevent him from making too sharp a turn4 ,except for the fact that a four-in-hand requires far more strength1 tandem is the more difficult of the two4 ,it is1 however1 peculiarly well suited for a woman because of her light hands and quickness1 and there is no reason why women should not excel in this form of driving4 ,indeed1 in the show ring1 there have been far fewer accidents with women driving tandem than with men4 ,as most of the current works on four-in-hand and tandem driving were written before the days of automobiles1 added caution is now needed1 particularly with respect to the tandem4 ,no woman should1 under any circumstances1 attempt to drive horses tandem unless they are thoroughly accustomed to automobiles1 and it is necessary nowadays to be very much more on the alert than it was before the evil days of gasolene4 ,illustration3 ,,tandem ,,from ,,bay ,,shore1 ,,long ,,island1 ,,show1 #aiaa ,while with a well-trained tandem there will seldom be occasion for much whip work1 at the same time1 even with the best-trained horses1 there will be occasions when the leader can only be controlled by the prompt and skilful use of the whip4 ,with green horses it is quite impossible to control the leader without being prepared to use the whip at any moment4 ,the ability to catch the thong comes into play far more frequently with a tandem than with a four-in-hand1 and it is even more essential with a tandem1 for the thong is more easily caught in the wheels of a cart1 and particularly of a gig1 than a coach4 ,with regard to the kind of cart to which the tandem should be driven1 it is to be noted that1 for several years past in the show ring1 tandems have been generally shown to gigs1 and very few tandems have been shown to carts even in country shows4 ,this may result in giving the general impression that the gig is the correct vehicle to which to drive a tandem1 which is far from being the case4 ,no recognized authority holds that it is the correct vehicle1 and1 for road driving1 a gig is thoroughly unsuited to a tandem4 ,while a gig is more comfortable and balances better than a wrongly adjusted tandem cart1 yet a gig is much too low for the driver either to have proper control of his leader or to be able to see obstacles in front of the leader4 ,moreover1 a gig1 having a much smaller body than a tandem cart and also short shafts1 gives an appearance of wrong proportion to the tandem1 and1 especially from a distance1 an effect of something lacking4 ,this is particularly the case with horses over fifteen hands two4 ,if a gig is used1 it is important that the lead traces should be as short as possible1 so as to make the whole appearance more compact4 ,illustration3 ,,correct ,,tandem ,,harness ,,for ,,show ,,ring ,for road work1 and particularly for country driving1 a tandem cart is not only correct1 but is a more practical and suitable vehicle than a gig1 particularly with large horses4 ,the driver is well up above the horses1 which gives far better control2 she is able to see well ahead of the leader1 and there is also the advantage of being out of the dust and in a position where one can better see other vehicles1 both in meeting and passing them4 ,whatever kind of vehicle is used1 the tugs should be so adjusted that the vehicle is in balance when the shafts are in position4 ,while this is not so important with a gig or a cart whose body is hung on springs independent of the shafts1 it is absolutely essential with a tandem cart1 or any other cart1 where the body is not balanced independently4 ,i wish to lay great emphasis on this point because very few grooms know anything about it1 and it is the most common thing in the world to find a horse put to a cart with the girth strapped so tightly that there is no play to the shafts4 ,this is entirely wrong4 ,if ,english tugs are used1 as they should be with a tandem cart1 the girth should be so loose that the shafts not only play in the tug1 but the tug plays in the girth1 and this will usually be done by letting out the girth from four to five holes beyond where it would be if it were tight4 ,with regard to balance1 the body of a tandem cart is made to slide on runners1 and the position of the body is regulated by a screw with a handle which comes up under the driving cushion4 ,this handle may be turned so as to throw the body backward or forward1 according to the number of persons who are to sit in the cart2 thus1 if a groom is to sit on the back seat1 the body of the cart should naturally be much farther forward than if the back seat were empty1 and1 for the same reason1 if there is the additional weight in front of another person besides the driver1 the body of the cart should be moved farther back than if the driver were alone4 ,the proper position of the body of the cart--so that it will be in balance--can only be learned by experiment1 for it varies1 of course1 with the angle of the shafts and the weight of the load to be carried4 ,while the tandem cart is correct for tandem driving under all circumstances1 for country use there are several forms of light high carts which are quite correct and much easier for the horses in hilly country or on heavy roads4 ,while the bodies of these carts are not adjustable1 balance can be secured by raising or lowering the tugs in the girths so as to raise or lower the shafts1 and by adjusting the position of the people in the cart4 ,in all high carts the weight should be thrown forward in going uphill and back in going downhill4 ,it is an interesting fact that a horse can pull a heavier load uphill the more weight1 within reasonable limits1 he has on his back4 ,illustration3 ,,correct ,,position ,,of ,,hands ,,driving ,,four-,,in-,,hand ,,or ,,tandem ,right hand ready to assist left ,in tandem driving1 when going downhill1 the leader's reins should be shortened2 if the hill is long1 they should be grasped in the right hand a few inches in front of the left1 separated by the middle finger1 released from the left hand for a moment1 then carried back with the right hand behind the left and grasped again in the left1 and held there until the bottom of the hill is reached4 ,if1 however1 the hill is only a short one1 they may be simply taken up in the right hand and held there for a moment4 ,the leader should1 of course1 not be pulling at all when going downhill2 on the other hand1 his traces should not be so loose as to give him any chance of getting his feet over4 ,in travelling on the level1 the leader's traces should be only moderately taut4 ,the tendency with beginners is to let the leader do too much work2 this not only tires the leader1 but it gets the wheeler in the bad habit of letting the leader pull not only the cart but the wheeler as well1 and1 in general1 the leader should rather be reserved for uphill work4 ,on the level most of the work1 and downhill all of it1 should be done by the wheeler4 ,while tandem driving originated in driving one's hunter in the lead to the meet so that there was no attempt at having the horses match1 nowadays matched pairs are commonly shown in the ring tandem1 so that it may be said that there are three different classes of tandem horses3 ,first1 matched pairs2 second1 a large wheeler with a small1 showy leader2 and third1 two horses of the hunter type1 not necessarily matched1 for a sporting tandem and for country work4 ,it is a mistake to suppose that tandems are merely ornamental2 on the contrary1 it is one of the most practical ways of harnessing two horses1 and the only really practical way of harnessing two horses to a cart4 ,horses generally enjoy being driven tandem because it means freedom for them both1 and they can exert their strength to great advantage4 ,indeed1 on the ,continent nearly all the heavy trucking is done with very high two-wheeled vehicles drawn by two1 three1 or even four horses tandem4 ,those who are in favor of putting a harness on their hunter will find that one of the best ways of exercising a hunter is by driving him in the lead of a tandem1 as there he may be given much less pulling than if he is driven single4 ,if you have a long-tailed hunter1 do not1 however1 drive him in the lead4 ,no long-tailed horse should ever be driven in the lead of a tandem1 save in the exceptional case of showing a sporting tandem in the ring4 ,the sporting tandem1 as shown in the ring1 is made up of any kind of a wheeler and the hunter in the lead with his saddle on4 ,the riding bridle is carried in the cart4 ,of late years there has been a great outcry against the practice of docking which1 in my opinion1 has arisen through ignorance and prejudice1 and has been raised by people who do not at all realize the dangers of driving long-tailed horses1 especially in a four or tandem4 ,the arguments used against docking are first that it is cruel and second that it prevents a horse from brushing off the flies4 ,neither of these objections is well founded4 ,the operation1 when properly done by a competent man1 causes almost no pain to the horse1 is done very quickly1 and has no after ill effects4 ,with regard to brushing off flies1 this argument would be quite good if horses were left out in the fields without anything on them1 but to use it with regard to the driving horses of persons of means is perfectly ridiculous4 ,when a horse is harnessed he cannot possibly use his tail to brush off the flies4 ,when he is standing in a properly appointed stable1 he is always covered in summer with a sheet and in winter with a blanket1 and there are no flies in winter4 ,when he is turned out in summer he is always covered with a sheet4 ,docking is not1 as its opponents assert1 a senseless fashion1 but is founded on reason4 ,a long-tailed horse1 particularly if driven in a low four-wheeled trap1 is almost sure1 however careful the driver may be1 to get his tail over at least one of the reins4 ,if he does1 it is a matter of great difficulty to release the rein1 and if the horse is high-spirited or in any way vicious1 as long as his tail is over the rein the driver has absolutely no control over him4 ,he is in a position to kick1 which he is almost sure to do1 or to run1 or to do anything he pleases1 and he nearly always does something which he should not do4 ,the opponents of docking are not persons who have driven high-spirited horses or who know anything about either tandem or four-in-hand driving4 ,the danger1 when a horse gets his tail over the rein1 is multiplied a hundred-fold when he is the leader of a tandem1 for in that case the driver is absolutely helpless2 there is nothing that he can do but either jump out of the trap and run to the leader's head or wait until such time as the leader may see fit to let the rein go4 ,in the meantime the leader may be kicking1 turning1 pulling to one side1 running away1 upsetting the cart1 or doing any one of a thousand things which the driver cannot in any way prevent4 ,in pair driving it is also a very serious thing if either horse puts his tail over a rein4 ,the result is that immediately control is lost not only over him but over the other horse as well1 for half of the control over the other is had through the coupling rein which is buckled to the rein caught in the tail4 ,many most serious accidents have been caused by long-tailed horses catching the reins4 ,i do not therefore consider it safe for a woman to drive a long-tailed horse of any spirit4 ,of course roadsters or trotting horses never should have their tails docked1 nor should thoroughbreds or polo ponies1 and many hunters do not4 ,but when a woman drives any of these long-tailed horses1 she is taking risks which she had better avoid4 ,with regard to the looks of a horse1 to my mind no driving horse with any kind of a formal trap looks smart with a long tail any more than he does with a long mane1 or forelock1 or with the hair about his fetlocks untrimmed4 ,i am not talking about a horse in the state of nature1 but of a horse harnessed to a properly appointed trap4 ,with regard to saddle horses1 ,i think also that a horse of the park1 hack1 or combination type looks far better with his tail docked4 ,it might be said that a trotting horse is quite as apt to get his tail over the rein as any other driving horse1 but this assertion loses sight of the very different way in which a trotting horse is driven1 and of the fact that in a trotting wagon the driver sits so near that he can reach down and lift the horse's tail over1 and that trotting horses are carefully trained not to start under these circumstances4 ,trotting horses are in a class by themselves1 and it is more reasonable to say that the tails of trotting horses should be docked than that the tails of other driving horses should be long4 ,with regard to the mane1 every driving horse should have his mane thinned out by pulling1 so that it may not look shaggy4 ,most ponies look best with their manes closely hogged4 ,if this gives a ewe-necked effect the mane may be cut in a curve1 short at the head and withers and longer in the middle4 ,the forelock on all driving horses should be cut entirely away4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,show ,,ring ,,appointments ,the harness should be of black patent-leather with square wire buckles4 ,crests1 monograms1 or initials should be small and inconspicuous3 for a single horse1 placed on the standing martingale2 for a pair1 on the breast plates4 ,loin straps1 which are part of the appointments of a victoria or other trap driven by a servant1 should not be used for ladies' traps driven by a lady4 ,pole chains with oval links are permissible or pole pieces1 when the owner drives2 chains are never permissible on any trap driven by a servant4 ,the chains should fasten at the pole and no extra links should be allowed to hang4 ,illustration3 ,,perfectly ,,appointed ,,lady',s ,,pair ,phaetons for use in the country have been shown of late1 built on the lines of the ,george ,,iv and finished in natural wood1 and with them russet harness instead of black patent-leather is very smart1 and1 if the trap is a light one1 ,dutch collars may be used instead of ,kay collars4 ,all formal ladies' traps finished in dark colors should also be lined with the owner's colors1 either black1 dark blue1 dark green1 or maroon1 and the servants' liveries should match the lining4 ,country traps of a light color should be lined in light colors1 and it looks smarter for the lining to match the country livery1 although gray liveries may be worn with any light lining4 ,ladies' traps may also be lined in leather instead of cloth and in the same colors1 and it is most important that the trimming of the lining should be strictly in keeping and very plain4 ,the driving cushion should always be covered with the same material as the lining4 ,the mat in the bottom of the trap should1 of course1 match the lining4 ,illustration3 ,,lady',s ,,single ,,basket ,,phaeton ,the running gear of all ladies' traps should be finished in dark colors with inconspicuous striping1 and the striping should be in keeping with the lining2 that is1 if the lining is other than black1 the striping should be of the same color4 ,all light colors for the striping1 such as primrose1 light red1 and light green1 should be confined to sporting traps and runabouts2 light hues do not seem appropriate to formal ladies' traps4 ,illustration3 ,,western ,,style ,,of ,,gig ,,horse ,with all formal ladies' traps1 plain square lamps are more appropriate1 and round lamps belong rather with sporting vehicles4 ,illustrations of a number of smartly appointed ladies' traps will be found on page #bji4 ,the owner's rain coat and storm gloves should be carried folded in the hood4 ,the rubbers1 comprising the rubber apron and groom's rain coat and cover for his hat1 should be folded and placed under the seat of the rumble4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,hints ,,on ,,driving ,regulate the pace by the distance that you have to go1 and1 whatever the distance1 keep going at a steady pace--from seven to nine miles an hour is a good average--and it is a great mistake in long driving to go sometimes very fast and then try to balance it by going very slowly4 ,in the old coaching days1 when long distances were covered and the horses had to be kept in good condition1 the general principle was to keep the horses going at about the same gait uphill and down1 and this applies quite as much with a pair or a single horse4 ,it is easier for a horse1 and tires him less1 to keep a steady gait than to walk up and down hill and then go very fast on the flat4 ,the most important thing about driving horses1 especially for distance driving1 is to find by experience their natural fast gait and then to keep them to it1 and never to urge your horses beyond their natural gait1 as nothing tires them so quickly4 ,on the other hand1 it tires a high-spirited horse almost as much to keep holding him back from his natural gait4 ,horses1 after they have been driven a bit1 know better than their drivers how to cover the ground1 and they generally had much better be left to pick out their own gait than be forced to what the driver thinks is the gait they should take4 ,so1 in going up or down hill1 if a horse shows a natural inclination to trot up even a steep hill1 let him trot if he wants to2 it will tire him less than holding him back4 ,illustration3 ,,driving ,a ,,pair ,,to ,a ,,george ,,iv ,,phaeton ,it is also a great mistake1 which many drivers make1 to walk horses down every hill they come to4 ,unless a hill is very steep1 it is far easier to keep up a steady even trot1 and if you have a heavy trap and find it straining your horse1 drive him in the soft part of the road1 which will hold back the trap4 ,in going up or down very steep hills1 it is easier for the horses to zigzag from side to side1 though of course at a walk1 as a hill as steep as that cannot be undertaken at a trot4 ,start your horses slowly and let them gradually warm up to the work before them1 and drive them slowly1 or even walk them1 for the last mile or two1 so as to cool them before they go to the stable4 ,as in riding1 follow the old adage1 8,walk the first mile out and the last mile in40 ,when you are bringing your trap up to the house or to the curb1 so as to get out yourself1 or to let some one else out1 you should rein in your horses gradually2 keep them going at a gradually diminishing trot1 until just before you are at the point at which you are to stop1 and then stop them quietly but firmly4 ,do not attempt to dash up to the stopping place and then throw the horses back on their haunches1 but do not bring your horses down to a walk twenty feet sooner than you need to and then creep up to the stopping place4 ,follow the same general principle when you are coming to a corner or entering a gate4 ,that is1 keep your horses well in hand and slow them down before you make the turn1 but it it is very bad style to bring your horses down to a walk1 or anything approaching a walk1 before turning a corner and to make the turn at the walk4 ,when going at a trot you should not make a turn at the walk unless you wish to turn the trap entirely around and go in the opposite direction1 or unless you have to make a turn of more than a right angle4 ,in going up driveways1 as in approaching a country house1 be sure to keep your trap in the middle of the road1 and to keep your horses up to their gait1 always with your horses well in hand4 ,needless to say1 it looks very badly to cut in on the grass on either side or to look as if you were cutting ,w's4 ,it must be borne in mind when you are driving into a country place1 that many of them have their drives so arranged that there is a turn to the stable near the entrance gate4 ,be sure that your horses are well in hand1 and that you are prepared to turn them to the other side1 as they are sure to see the stable turn and very apt to try to take it4 ,when you come to a hill1 remember that your horses in going up need to stretch their heads out in order to exert their full strength4 ,you should1 therefore1 give them their heads as much as they want1 provided always that you keep them in hand4 ,in going downhill1 on the other hand1 the horses should always be reined in1 though1 as ,i have said1 not enough to bring them down to a walk unless the hill is very steep2 they should1 however1 be kept well in hand in going down as there is then the greatest danger of stumbling4 ,illustration3 ,,basket ,,phaeton ,note position of groom and livery ,if you are driving a trap with a brake1 with which some basket phaetons are equipped1 as are all traps for use in hilly countries except runabouts1 do not use the brake too freely4 ,it is much better for the horses to accustom themselves to hold the trap back than it is to have them pulling it downhill4 ,if your horses become accustomed to having the brake on at every hill you go down1 you will find great difficulty in holding them when you drive them without a brake4 ,the brake should be reserved for use in going down very steep hills and for emergencies1 such as having the horses get away from you when going down a moderate hill2 but the brake should never be used1 in single or pair horse driving1 in pulling up4 ,the rule of the road in this country is 8keep to the right10 but why this rule has ever been adopted1 instead of the ,english rule of keeping to the left1 ,i have never heard explained4 ,a little reflection will show one that the ,english rule of keeping to the left is the naturally correct and sensible rule1 and that the whole theory of correct driving is based upon it4 ,thus1 the driver sits on the right side of the trap in order to be able to avoid hitting a trap passing in the opposite direction1 as he is on the side where he can best watch his own trap and the trap that might strike him4 ,so the whip is held in the right hand1 pointing toward the left in order not to engage with the whip of a passing vehicle1 and the reins are held in the left hand that the whip may be held in the right4 ,similarly1 ,i may add1 in riding1 a man rides on the woman's right1 in order that he may have the point of danger1 the middle of the road1 when1 if the riders are going to collide with persons or vehicles coming in the opposite direction1 he will be the one to suffer the collision4 ,that keeping to the left would be the common-sense way is quite clearly shown by the fact that many automobiles are now made with the chauffeur's seat on the left1 so that1 keeping to the right1 he may see and not collide with vehicles coming in the opposite direction4 ,however1 this rule of keeping to the right is established in this country1 as it is in many of the ,continental countries1 and probably will never be changed4 ,all vehicles1 riders1 etc41 coming in the opposite direction1 therefore1 must be passed on the right1 and on crowded roads1 particularly in parks and on the streets or avenues of the city1 the driver should habitually keep to the right of the middle of the road4 ,if you are driving slowly1 wherever you may be1 you should keep to the extreme right in order that vehicles going faster may be able to pass you on the left4 ,in passing any other vehicle or rider going in the same direction you should keep him on your right4 ,for driving in the show ring1 the park1 or any crowded thoroughfare1 the whip should be used to indicate to those behind you what you are going to do4 ,it is held up straight to show that you are slackening speed or that you intend to stop4 ,it is carried to the right of the trap and twirled from left to right to indicate that you are turning to the right1 and it is kept to the left and twirled from right to left if you are turning to the left4 ,you should not only give these signals yourself1 but you should always observe the driver ahead of you to see what signals he may give1 and be sure when you are driving in any crowded place to keep your horses absolutely under control so that they may be stopped in a moment if need be4 ,this is particularly important in driving in the city1 where conformity with traffic regulations makes sudden stops necessary4 ,for all formal occasions1 when you are driving any kind of a phaeton with a rumble1 you should always have a servant on the rumble4 ,for any formal occasion1 where it is correct to drive a trap with a rumble1 it is incorrect not to have the servant4 ,it is better form1 even for country driving1 if you take a servant1 to have him on the rumble1 where he should always be if there is a rumble4 ,it is not correct1 where you have a rumble1 to have the servant at your side4 ,if the horses are pulling too hard1 it is quite permissible to pass the reins back to the servant1 or he may even drive them from the rumble1 where he can control them quite as well as he could if he were sitting beside you4 ,for this reason the reins are made longer for a woman than for a man4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,dress ,while1 except for four-in-hand1 there is no prescribed formal costume required for driving1 at the same time there are certain general principles which women should always observe1 not only for formal occasions1 such as the show ring or park1 but whenever they take the ribbons4 ,for formal ladies' traps1 such as phaetons1 it is perfectly permissible to wear a large hat of the prevailing fashion and an afternoon or calling gown4 ,where the owner is driving a trap of this kind on a formal occasion1 the costume should not be tailor-made1 and her costume should produce the effect that she is out for a pleasure drive4 ,with sporting traps and carts of all kinds1 on the other hand1 the costume should be strictly tailor-made and the hat small and not inclined to blow off4 ,this is particularly so for tandem driving1 and in that case the general effect should be mannish1 and particular care should be taken to have everything securely fastened so that undivided attention may be given to the horses and reins4 ,for driving tandem1 or for any kind of a sporting vehicle or cart in the country1 a plain sailor is the most appropriate as well as one of the easiest to keep on1 and veils1 as well as other feminine adornments1 look quite out of place4 ,the hair1 of course1 should be neatly and securely done1 and boots or low shoes are much more appropriate than high-heeled slippers with open-work stockings4 ,it is always correct1 under any circumstances1 to carry a lap robe1 and while in the show ring it may remain on the seat on the left side of the driver4 ,for other occasions it is better to spread it over the knees to keep off the dust4 ,if it is spread1 be sure that it is neatly tucked in about the feet1 but to do this requires some knack1 and the best way to arrange the robe is to have it come over the feet so that the heels will rest upon it1 and then to have the right end placed under you so as to entirely cover the lower part of your knee4 ,if you are driving alone both sides should be adjusted in the same way1 but1 of course1 if you have a companion the robe should cover you both4 ,for tandem a driving apron is permissible1 but is not required1 instead of a robe1 and for four-in-hand driving it is required4 ,the costume for four-in-hand driving1 as worn by the members of the ,new ,york ,ladies' ,coaching ,club1 is a rough gray beaver top hat with a double-breasted dark-blue melton driving coat4 ,under the coat is worn a plain tailor-made cloth suit of any smart material1 such as a check or a stripe4 ,some members wear spats1 which are very smart4 ,heavy tan driving gloves are worn1 and the driving apron is laid across the knees and strapped around the waist over the driving coat4 ,for the show ring heavy white driving gloves or tan driving gloves are equally correct1 as they are for other occasions4 ,when driving ladies' traps1 if you are wearing a gown with short sleeves and therefore are wearing long gloves1 they should be slipped off the hands and folded back so that only the arms are covered and then driving gloves should be slipped on the hands4 ,when driving a ,george ,,iv1 where a card-case is part of the appointments1 it is a good idea to fold a fresh pair of gloves in the card-case4 ,for all formal occasions1 such as the show ring and park and town driving1 the servant should wear a groom's dress livery1 consisting of a single-breasted long coat with six buttons in front and two rows of three buttons in the back4 ,the coat should come to five inches above the knee and should always be kept buttoned4 ,it should be of the color which the family may have adopted--black1 dark blue1 dark green1 maroon1 or gray1 etc4 ,the coat collar should be of the same material as the coat and the cuffs should be plain without buttons4 ,under the coat a waistcoat should always be worn1 of some striped material1 a small strip showing inside the collar4 ,a plain white ,ascot tie and standing collar should be worn1 but no cuffs1 and the coat sleeves should be very long1 coming well down to the hand4 ,the breeches must be white--of buckskin or breeches cloth4 ,stiff-legged top boots should be worn1 with tops of tan or buff1 or of some color which matches or goes well with the color of the coat4 ,the boots must always be of calf and never of patent or varnished leather4 ,a silk top hat should be worn1 with a narrow silk band4 ,in this country it is improper to use cockades except for officers of the army and navy and other officials4 ,the gloves should be tan1 but white buckskin gloves are correct for park or town driving4 ,illustration3 ,,correct ,,groom',s ,,livery ,for country wear1 particularly in summer1 this full-dress livery is too hot and looks out of place1 so that an undress livery should be worn4 ,the best style of undress livery is a morning or cutaway coat with three buttons in front and two in the back1 cut like any morning coat1 but a little higher in the neck1 and breeches and leggings of the same material1 or perhaps leather puttee leggings4 ,this livery is made of covert cloth or whip-cord1 and the color may be any shade of gray or any shade of tan4 ,if the livery is gray1 it is smarter to wear black leggings rather than tan1 and when the leggings are black1 black shoes should always be worn1 and russet shoes with tan leggings4 ,the hat to wear with this livery should be the same shape as a top hat1 of black felt for a gray livery1 or of brown felt to match the tan livery1 or a straw hat of the same shape may be worn1 black to go with the dark livery or straw color with any livery4 ,tan gloves are correct with undress livery4 ,a sack coat is sometimes used instead of a cutaway1 but ,i think the latter very much smarter1 and if a sack coat is worn a top hat should not be worn1 but rather a square derby4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,bits ,,and ,,bearing ,,reins ,in the illustration on the opposite page are shown the various types of driving bits1 and ,i shall not attempt to describe them in detail any more than ,i did with respect to the riding bits4 ,they are fully treated in many of the standard works on the subject and a detailed description of them would not belong in this book4 ,for single horse driving either the ,liverpool or ,ashleigh is correct for all occasions1 except for the show ring and park driving with ladies' traps1 such as the ,george ,,iv or ,peters' phaeton1 where the ,buxton is the correct bit for single horses as well as pairs1 and except also for gigs where a gig bit is correct4 ,gig bits1 however1 should not be used with other traps than gigs4 ,for pair horse driving the ,buxton is correct for the show ring and park driving and may be used for informal occasions1 though personally ,i think it rather poor form for country driving with any kind of trap4 ,the ,buxton1 however1 not having a hole to correspond with the 8half cheek0 of the ,liverpool or ,ashleigh1 is1 unless you use the 8full cheek10 rather a severe bit for any but a skilled driver with light hands4 ,for pair driving a pivoted bit should always be used4 ,the ,liverpool is not so suitable for pair driving as the ,ashleigh or other elbow bits1 because even when the bars are pivoted they do not turn freely1 so that the two inside bars are usually pulling at an angle on the bit1 and do not give an even pull on the horses' mouths4 ,illustration3 ,,bits #a4 ,coaching #b4 ,buxton #c4 ,ashleigh #d4 ,liverpool ,if your horse has a very light mouth1 and you have not acquired very light hands1 it may be better to drive with the reins in the full cheek4 ,if1 however1 you have acquired light hands1 the reins had better be in the half cheek of the ,liverpool or ,ashleigh1 or in the middle bar of the ,buxton1 as this gives much more control and 8feel0 of the horse's mouth4 ,in fact1 no competent whip with light hands1 particularly no woman1 will want to drive a horse1 however light his mouth1 in the full cheek4 ,if your horse's mouth is rather hard and there is danger of his running away1 it is better to have the reins in the first hole of the bar of the ,liverpool or ,ashleigh1 but if you drive him this way you must keep a very light hand1 as it makes the pressure of the curb chain too severe1 and you may make his mouth hard by a constant pressure of chain4 ,if you are unfortunate enough to have to drive a puller1 it will probably be necessary to put the reins in the second hole of the bar1 and even to twist the curb chain1 and to use a special form of bit with a long port or other device intended to stop a pulling horse4 ,no woman1 however1 should have a pulling horse in her stable4 ,in pair driving the bitting is most important4 ,it is the rarest thing in the world to find two horses who are not only well matched in appearance but have the same dispositions and require the same bitting4 ,in fact1 there is an old saying1 8,there is always one to a pair40 ,by correct bitting and a proper adjustment of the coupling reins the differences in the dispositions of the two horses can be equalized1 and they can be made to go well together4 ,this is a point which is very frequently neglected by inexperienced drivers1 and few coachmen really understand it1 so that you must learn it yourself and see that your coachman has your horses properly bitted and coupled4 ,the general principle1 of course1 is that the slow horse of the pair should have the reins in the cheek or half cheek1 while the fast horse should have them in the half cheek1 or the first1 or even the second1 hole in the bar1 and it may be found necessary to put a severe bit on the fast horse and a plain bit on the slow one4 ,similarly1 if one horse has a light mouth and the other a hard one1 the bits and the coupling reins must be regulated and the curb chains adjusted accordingly4 ,it is impossible to lay down any fixed rules to follow4 ,it is all a matter of experiment with the particular pair of horses that you are driving4 ,of equal importance with the proper adjustment of the bits and of the reins in the cheek or bar is the adjustment of the coupling reins4 ,these are the two shorter inside reins by which the near horse is coupled with the off rein and the off horse with the near rein4 ,the coupling reins should be so adjusted that the pressure on the reins of each horse will be the same2 that is1 the off horse should have the same pressure from the off rein as he has from the near coupling rein1 and the near horse should have the same pressure from the near rein as from the off coupling rein4 ,if it happens that the two horses go absolutely together and have the same mouths and the same dispositions1 which1 as ,i have said1 is almost never the case1 then the coupling reins will be buckled in the same hole on each rein4 ,if the two horses have different mouths or different dispositions1 the buckles will have to be shifted accordingly4 ,that is1 for instance1 if the near horse has more life or a harder mouth1 the off coupling rein must be taken up so that there will be more pressure on him than on the off horse4 ,the coupling reins are also adjusted for the purpose of bringing the two horses nearer together1 and for keeping their heads together or apart as may be necessary4 ,the two horses of a pair should have their bodies and heads straight and parallel to the pole1 but it will be found that some horses are inclined to carry their heads to one side or the other1 and the coupling reins should be taken up or loosened accordingly4 ,for example1 if the near horse carries his head to the near side1 the off coupling rein must be taken up1 which compels him to straighten his head4 ,if you have two horses that seem to be perfectly matched1 but the off horse carries his head a little out to the front and has a light mouth1 and the near horse carries his head close to his chest and has a hard mouth1 to get them to pull together and keep them well in the traces the coupling rein of the off horse should be two or three holes shorter than that of the near1 and consequently the off coupling rein will be let out and the near coupling rein taken in1 and in such case the off horse1 if he has a light mouth1 should be driven in the cheek and the hard-mouthed near horse down in the bar4 ,a common fault of coachmen and grooms lies in buckling both coupling reins too tightly1 which makes the horses carry their heads in toward the pole instead of going away straight4 ,this looks very badly1 makes the horses' mouths hard1 and either keeps the horses going diagonally or causes them to carry their heads crooked4 ,if horses have acquired1 through wrong coupling1 the habit of turning their heads in toward the pole1 or their quarters out from it1 it is sometimes a good plan to change their positions instead of always driving them on the same side4 ,then1 on the other hand1 horses sometimes get into the habit of leaning in against the pole4 ,this is a difficult habit to break1 but by changing their positions or by adjusting the bits and the coupling reins1 and steady and careful driving1 this habit can be broken4 ,bearing reins are required in the appointments for ladies' traps except for runabouts and pony carts1 and ,i believe generally in their use with nearly every kind of trap1 and with single horses as well as with pairs4 ,it is only the abuse of bearing reins1 and not the use1 which has led to the outcry so generally made against them by persons ignorant of the principles and practice of driving4 ,illustration3 ,,proper ,,adjustment ,,of ,,bearing ,,reins ,bearing reins should be just tight enough to keep the horse's head up in its natural position4 ,when so adjusted they prevent a horse from putting his head down and getting the bit in his teeth2 they prevent him from putting his tongue over the bit and do a great deal toward preventing him from kicking4 ,bearing reins are particularly necessary in pair driving1 for however well matched two horses may be in general appearance1 they seldom carry their heads naturally at just the same height4 ,in that case the horse who naturally carries his head high should have his bearing rein quite loose and the other quite tight1 so that their heads may be at the same height4 ,nothing looks worse than to see two horses in a pair carrying their heads one low and one high4 ,most of the best authorities on driving also say1 and ,i have no doubt that it is true1 that bearing reins keep a tired horse up and make his going easy2 they also keep him from nodding4 ,of course1 many thoughtless grooms draw the bearing reins altogether too tight1 so as to force the horse's head up and make him almost ewe-necked4 ,this naturally frets a horse1 especially when he is standing still4 ,the bearing reins should be fastened to a bridoon and not to the bit1 as1 if fastened to the bit1 they raise it too high and are apt to spoil the 8feel0 of the horse's mouth4 ,for runabouts1 at all times1 bearing reins should be dispensed with1 and they may be dispensed with for informal country driving in any kind of carriage1 especially with a single horse4 ,when bearing reins are used they should generally be loosened if the horses are to stand for any length of time4 ,the overhead check-rein should never be used1 except with roadsters or trotting horses4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,harness ,the use of silver-plated instead of brass-plated harness for formal occasions1 such as the show ring and park1 is optional1 but brass-plated harness is more suitable than silver-plated for informal occasions and for country driving4 ,the correct appointments for a woman's trap in the show ring are given in a separate chapter1 page #bde4 ,for other occasions the buckles1 etc41 may be either square or round1 according to the owner's fancy4 ,square buckles are more appropriate for formal occasions and perhaps for four-wheel traps2 round buckles are rather for carts and sporting vehicles4 ,there should be as little metal about the harness as practicable1 and the ornaments should be confined to crests1 engravings1 or initials1 which should be small and inconspicuous and placed only on the winkers1 rosettes1 face pieces1 standing martingale1 and pad4 ,breechings may be used for heavy traps1 but are not suitable for light traps such as runabouts or for carts4 ,they sometimes make a nervous horse kick1 and in such cases they should1 of course1 be dispensed with4 ,kicking straps1 as ,i have said elsewhere1 should generally be used for a kicking horse both with four-wheel traps and with carts4 ,illustration3 ,,single ,,phaeton ,,harness ,may be used with runabout1 when breeching need not be used1 and ,dutch collar may be used instead of ,kay collar ,the harness should be made of the best quality of leather and hand sewn1 and should always be kept soft and pliable1 and never allowed to become hard or mildewed4 ,russet harness is perfectly correct for informal country driving and with runabouts or any kind of light country trap1 whether two or four wheeled1 particularly with traps finished in natural wood4 ,for all heavy traps1 whether four or two wheeled1 collars and harness should be used1 and it is essential that the collar should fit the horse4 ,in fact1 it is most important that each horse in the stable should have his own collar1 which should be carefully fitted to him by a competent harness-maker4 ,collars come in standard sizes1 varying from #ai to #bb inches1 and are made to fit by altering the stuffing4 ,the ,kay collar is the type generally used4 ,the weight of the harness is in proportion to the weight of the trap2 for heavy traps1 such as phaetons or dog-carts1 the heaviest harness should be used1 while with runabouts1 basket phaetons1 and light carts1 lighter harness is correct4 ,for country use1 and especially in summer with all kinds of light country traps1 such as runabouts1 ,hempstead carts1 and breaking carts1 a ,dutch collar is quite correct and is much more comfortable and cooler for the horse than a collar and hames4 ,the ,dutch collar1 however1 should not be used with any kind of a heavy or formal trap1 as it is not so well adapted for pulling1 nor does it look well with them4 ,the lining of the collar should be black for all except sporting carts1 where russet lining looks very smart1 though almost too sporty for a woman4 ,illustration3 ,,single ,,road ,,harness ,note the light ,dutch collar ,driving reins for a woman should be thinner and lighter than for a man1 and should be very pliable for the same reasons1 as ,i have explained on page #ade1 that apply to riding reins4 ,the general principle to be observed in driving1 as well as in riding1 is to have as little harness on the horse as practicable1 and1 above all things1 not to have the harness overloaded with ornaments4 ,for country use1 and for all informal occasions1 it is not necessary to use patent-leather harness1 as it scratches and becomes shabby very quickly4 ,plain black pigskin is therefore more appropriate and perfectly correct for such occasions4 ,for rainy weather special harness should be used1 as the rain injures the leather and tarnishes the metal of the regular harness1 and entails a great deal of unnecessary work on the grooms4 ,rainy weather harness has all the buckles covered and is made of oiled leather4 ,when the owner is in deep mourning1 everything about the harness should be black1 all of the bright metal should be covered with black leather4 ,it looks quite inappropriate to see the servants with wide crape bands but the harness with all the bright metal showing and colored rosettes and saddle cloths2 or1 what is even worse1 colored saddle cloths and black rosettes4 ,while it is not necessary to use black harness when the owner is in mourning1 all colors should certainly be avoided in the rosettes and saddle cloths1 and the servants should be put in mourning also4 ,what ,i have just said in the chapter on harness for single horses applies generally to harness for a pair4 ,kay collars should be used for pairs with all traps1 except that ,dutch collars may be used for a pair with runabouts or any other light country trap4 ,there is a very light station trap1 finished in natural wood1 with which russet harness with ,dutch collars1 for a pair1 looks very smart and may be used in the country4 ,illustration3 ,,double ,,road ,,harness ,note the yoke ,the horses may be coupled to the pole with either pole chains or pole pieces2 the former with oval links are correct when the owner drives1 but are never permissible in any trap driven by a servant4 ,the chains should fasten at the pole and no extra links should be allowed to hang4 ,the pole chains1 if used1 should be of burnished steel and not of brass4 ,oddly enough1 for some reason which has never been explained1 pole chains and pole pieces are regarded as belonging to the trap and not to the harness4 ,illustration3 ,,english ,,phaeton ,,pair ,,harness ,note the loin straps1 which are correct only when servant is driving ,loin straps should be used with a lady's trap only when a servant drives4 ,the winkers should be square when square buckles are used1 but round winkers may be used1 as well as round buckles with sporting traps1 for which they are quite appropriate4 ,metal rosettes should be used with a single harness and may be used with pair harness1 or for ladies' traps4 ,silk rosettes may be used of any color the owner may fancy1 and should match the liveries4 ,in the show ring and park flower rosettes are worn1 but with pairs fancy rosettes are worn on the near side of the near horse and the off side of the off horse2 that is1 one on each horse on the outside1 while on the inside the rosettes should be plain metal4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,hempstead ,,cart ,double harness should fit the horses just as single harness does1 except that the belly-bands should be looser1 so as to admit two or three fingers between them and the girths4 ,a whip with a lash should always be used1 except with roadsters or trotting horses1 when a straight whip is correct4 ,the whip should be of a length proportionate to the trap and the distance of the horse from the driver4 ,the same kind of whip should be used for driving a single horse as for a pair4 ,the shaft should be straight and may be of any color the owner fancies1 and may be mounted in gold1 silver1 or brass4 ,the best whips in general use are made of holly4 ,for a woman's use a whip should be lighter and more slender than for a man's4 ,a heavy whip is very tiring to the hand1 and quite unnecessary for the kind of horse that a woman drives4 ,the handle of the whip may be covered with leather or plain1 and1 if leather covered1 may be of any color which goes well with the shaft4 ,while colored snappers are used1 plain white is always correct1 and ,i consider it much smarter4 ,the lash of the whip should always be kept white and very pliable1 and1 of course1 should be pipe-clayed when necessary4 ,for a phaeton or breaking cart1 where the horse is quite a long distance from the driver1 a much longer whip should be used than for a runabout or a ,hempstead cart4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,,gymkhana ,,games ,,and ,,suggestions ,,for ,,private ,,shows ,gymkhana games may be held either independently or in connection with private or country club shows1 and ,i would suggest as a programme for such a combination the following events3 ,,classes #a4 ,ladies' ,single ,harness ,class4 ,appointments 7town or country7 #dj per cent ,horse #fj per cent #b4 ,ladies' ,harness ,pairs4 ,appointments and counting the same4 #c4 ,ladies' ,hunters4 7,ladies to ride47 #d4 ,sporting ,tandems4 7,ladies to drive47 #e4 ,pairs of ,hunters4 7,pairs made up of a gentleman and a lady1 riding their own horses47 #f4 ,ladies' ,driving ,competition4 ,driving to count #ajj per cent #g4 ,ladies' ,saddle ,horses4 ,horses to count #dj per cent ,riding #dj per cent ,appointments #bj per cent ,,gymkhana ,,events #h4 ,egg and ,spoon ,race for ,ladies4 #i4 ,music ,stall ,ride4 #aj4 ,affinity ,race4 #aa4 ,potato ,race4 #ab4 ,drag ,hunt ,contest4 ,,notes ,classes #c and #e3 ,hunters to be shown over jumps1 which may be merely post and rail1 brush1 in and out1 or any combination of these1 performance over jumps only to count4 ,event ,no4 #h3 ,starters will be handed a large wooden spoon and an egg4 ,the spoon must be carried in one hand1 with the egg in the bowl1 twice around the course4 ,any one dropping the egg must return to the starting point for another1 and whoever first completes the two rounds of the course with an unbroken egg held throughout in the spoon wins the race4 ,event ,no4 #i3 ,there must be a fence or wall down the middle of the course4 ,the stalls are made with poles1 which are attached at one end to the fence and at the other end to stakes driven in the ground4 ,at the start there should be one less stall than there are contestants1 and the length of the fence should be such that at the start there will be no fence lapping over4 ,the stalls should be between three and four feet wide and all stalls on the same side of the fence4 ,the contestants start mounted2 when the music plays they ride in single file around the fence in a ring until the music stops2 the riders then dash for the stalls and the rider who is left over is out of the contest4 ,before the music starts again one stall is removed1 and the performance is repeated until there are only two contestants left for one stall1 and then whoever of these gets it wins the event4 ,the horses may be ridden into the stalls backward1 forward1 or any way in which they can get in4 ,in other words1 it is the old game of 8,going to ,jerusalem40 ,event ,no4 #aj3 ,the contestants are in pairs1 a man and a woman1 each with his pony4 ,all the contestants start dismounted4 ,at the starting signal the man first puts the woman up1 then mounts himself2 they join hands and dash madly down the field and race twice around the course1 holding hands4 ,the pair to reach the finish first win the race4 ,if desired1 jumps may be introduced4 ,event ,no4 #aa3 ,the contestants may be all men1 all women1 or both4 ,the contestants start mounted at one end of the course1 each of them having a spear2 at the other end of the course are six or eight potatoes for each contestant1 those of each contestant being placed together in a row and opposite his place in line at the start4 ,the contestants must pick up the potatoes1 one at a time1 with the spear1 ride back to the starting point1 and drop each potato in a basket4 ,the one who first picks up all his potatoes1 carries them on his spear1 and drops them all in the basket1 wins the race4 ,if a contestant drops a potato on the way back to the starting point he must pick up that potato with his spear without dismounting4 ,illustration3 7,,newsboy7 ,a ,,prize-,,winning ,,runabout ,,entry ,event ,no4 #ab3 ,this event1 if my memory serves me right1 was originated by ,mr4 ,f4 ,m4 ,lowry1 ,m4,f4,h41 of the ,harkaway ,hunt1 ,mc,donald1 ,pennsylvania1 and it can take place only in a hunting country or where one or more packs of hounds are available2 it can1 of course1 only be tried where the grounds are large4 ,a drag is laid over the country1 taking as many fences as may be desired1 but without flags or other indications of the course4 ,the finish should be at the grand stand4 ,each hound wears a ribbon of a distinctive color and each rider draws by lot a card with the corresponding color of that worn by a hound4 ,the riders all follow the hounds1 and the holder of the color of the hound which first arrives at the finish is awarded the cup1 provided that the hound has followed the full course4 ,there need be no contest between the riders as to who shall be first at the finish4 ,illustration3 ,,judge',s ,,stand ,,in ,,open ,,air ,,show ,of course the above programme is for an open-air or summer show1 but all the classes and many of the events may be used in-doors in a ring4 ,to take the place of the events which must necessarily be omitted for an in-door show1 ,i would suggest a costume ride4 ,the style of costume may be left to the choice of the riders1 or some particular period or type may be adopted4 ,the riders go through the evolutions of a drill to music4 ,illustration3 ,by courtesy of 8,the ,rider and ,driver0 ,,gymkhana ,,games ,,at ,,country ,,show ,another suitable event for an in-door show is tandem riding which has become deservedly popular4 ,the horse one rides is saddled and the reins and all appointments are the same as for ordinary riding1 with the exception that the bridle has the usual ,d's similar to those of the wheeler of the tandem1 through which the reins of the leader pass4 ,the leader has a harness which consists of a pad with terrets and a driving bridle without winkers and whatever form of bit may best suit the individual horse4 ,the reins are of white buckskin1 the size of light driving tandem lead reins4 ,there should be about a half a horse's length between the two horses4 ,the best and most practical way of holding the reins ,i have found to be as follows3 ,treat the curb and snaffle reins of the horse you are riding as if they were one rein and separate them both by the middle and third fingers2 that is to say1 the near curb is laid on top of the near snaffle rein and they both pass between the middle and third fingers4 ,the off snaffle is laid on top of the off curb rein and they pass between the first and middle fingers4 ,the ends come up between the thumb and forefinger4 ,the near lead rein passes under the middle finger and up through the hand1 coming out between the third and fourth fingers4 ,the off lead rein passes down between the third and fourth fingers and passes out under the middle finger4 ,an ordinary light driving whip is held in the usual way for driving in the right hand1 and the right hand is held in readiness to assist the left and particularly to turn the leader4 ,horses1 with a little training1 are easily ridden or driven in this way and can be taught to jump and go through complicated evolutions4 ,this tandem riding is a suitable event for winter entertainments in clubs and riding-schools4 ,,index ,appointments1 hunting1 #gd1 #ge2 show ring1 #bde-bdi2 trap1 #bgc4 ,arms1 position of1 in riding1 #ad1 #ai1 #bg4 ,army1 fashion of mounting1 #dh1 #di-ea2 seat1 #db1 #dd4 ,astride1 riding1 #cg-eg2 holding reins in1 #bg2 correct position for1 #dj2 the close seat in1 #dd1 #de1 #ed-eg4 ,backing1 a horse1 #hg2 of horse1 #aje4 ,balance1 #d1 #e1 #f1 #ab1 #de2 importance of1 #ef1 #eg4 ,balance strap1 #adc1 #add4 ,balking1 #ajd1 #ajf4 ,bareback riding1 #ci1 #de1 #df4 ,bearing reins1 adjustment of1 #bfi-bgb2 in pair driving1 #bga4 ,belt1 riding1 #abf4 ,bits1 driving1 #bfd-bfg4 ,bits1 riding1 adjustment of1 #aed-aef2 position of1 #aec2 varieties of1 #gf1 #ade1 #adf1 #aej-aeb4 ,bitting1 in pair driving1 #bff1 #bfg4 ,body1 position of1 in riding1 #f1 #g4 ,boots1 riding1 #gd1 #aba-abe2 for cross-saddle1 #acj-aca4 ,brake1 the1 #bed1 #bee4 ,breastplate1 #ge1 #gf1 #adh1 #adi1 #aea1 #aeb4 ,breeches1 riding1 #gd1 #aji1 #abj1 #aba2 for cross-saddle1 #aca4 ,breechings1 #bgc4 ,bridle1 the1 #gf1 #add-adg1 #aea4 ,bridle-hand1 the1 #ae4 ,bridoon1 the1 #ade1 #adf1 #aea4 ,bucking1 #de1 #aje1 #ajf4 ,buckles1 #af1 #ade1 #adf1 #bgc1 #bgi4 ,cantering1 #hd1 #he1 #hh4 ,caressing a horse1 #ii1 #ajj4 ,catching the thong1 #bai-bbb1 #bcd4 ,cavesson1 the1 #gf1 #adf-adh4 ,check-rein1 the1 #bgb4 ,cheek pieces1 #ade1 #adf4 ,children1 riding for1 #d1 #e1 #ch1 #de2 ponies for1 #agf1 #agg4 8,clucking10 #aja4 ,coat1 riding1 #aaa-aad2 for cold weather1 #aai2 raincoat1 #aji1 #aah1 #aai2 top-coat1 #aai2 for cross-saddle1 #aca4 ,collars1 ,dutch and ,kay1 #bde1 #bgd-bgh4 8,combination horse10 the1 #aei1 #agj-agc4 ,companion1 riding with1 #ib1 #aja1 #ajf1 #ajg4 ,confidence in horse1 #cj4 ,conformation1 in saddle-horse1 #ahf1 #ahg4 ,controlling a horse1 #bi1 #cj1 #ii1 #ajj4 ,coupling reins1 adjustment of1 #bfg-bfi4 8,cowboy0 costume and saddle1 #dc4 ,crop1 position of1 #ah1 #ai2 in hunting1 #ge1 #abi4 ,cross-saddle1 disadvantages of1 #cg1 #ch2 dress for1 #aji1 #acj1 #aca2 types of1 #da1 #db1 #aee4 ,curb reins1 #ae-ag1 #bf2 reversing position of1 #bd1 #be1 #bh2 tightening1 #bc1 #bd4 ,cushion1 driving1 #aih1 #bdf4 ,dealers in horses1 #aha-ahe4 ,dismounting1 from the side-saddle1 #ce1 #cf2 from the cross-saddle1 #ea-ed4 ,docking1 #bda-bdd4 ,dress1 driving1 #bbc1 #bei-bfa4 ,dress1 riding1 cross-saddle1 #ci1 #acj1 #aca2 side-saddle1 #gc-ge1 #ajh-acj2 prices of riding clothes1 #acb4 ,driveways1 going up1 #bec4 ,driving1 #aic et seq42 four-in-hand1 #bag-bcb2 getting length of reins1 #aif2 hints on1 #bej-beh2 inspection of horse1 harness1 and trap1 #aic1 #aie2 methods of holding reins1 #aii-bjc1 #baj1 #baa2 position1 #aih2 pulling up1 #bjd-bjf2 shortening and lengthening reins1 #bja1 #bjg1 #bjh1 #baj2 starting1 #baa1 #bab2 stepping into trap1 #aid-aig2 stepping out of trap1 #bae1 #baf2 tandem driving1 #bcb-bdj2 theory of correct driving1 #bjj1 #bjh2 use of whip1 #bjj1 #bab1 #bac4 ,english conditions of riding1 #afb2 fashion of mounting1 #df-dh1 #ej2 method in show-ring1 #hb1 #hc2 rule of the road1 #bee1 #bef2 saddles1 #db1 #dd1 #df1 #ea1 #acd2 saddle dress1 #aah2 trained hunter1 #fg1 #fh4 ,feeding a horse1 #if-ih4 ,feet 8home10 riding with1 #aa1 #ab1 #dd1 #ea4 ,foot of horse1 to dislodge stone or nail from1 #id1 #ie4 ,forelock1 the1 #bdd4 ,form1 in driving1 #aic et seq42 in riding1 #c et seq4 ,four-in-hand driving1 #bag et seq42 catching the thong1 #bai-bbb2 dress for1 #bbc1 #bfj1 #bfa2 going downhill1 #bca2 harness1 #bbj2 lady's four-in-hand1 #bbf1 #bbi2 position1 #aih1 #bbe2 of hands and reins1 #bai1 #bbb1 #bbf1 #bch2 readjusting reins1 #bca1 #bcb2 shortening and lengthening reins1 #bbg2 starting1 #bbe1 #bbg2 stopping1 #bbh2 to straighten the team1 #bbg1 #bbh2 taking up the reins1 #bbc-bbe2 turning1 #bbh1 #bbi2 acute angles1 #bcj-bcb4 ,gait1 in driving1 #bej-beb2 in riding1 #ia1 #ic1 #afj1 #afa1 #ahg-ahi4 ,games1 see ,gymkhana4 ,garland1 ,james ,a41 his ,the ,private ,stable quoted1 #bbj1 #bba1 #bbc-bbe1 #bbg-bcb4 ,gig horse1 western style of1 #bdh4 ,gigs1 in tandem driving1 #bce1 #bcf4 ,girthing1 #ajb1 #adb1 #bcg4 ,girths1 #ada-adc4 ,gloves1 #gd1 #abh1 #abi2 driving1 #bfa4 ,groom1 on the rumble1 #baf1 #beg1 #beh2 livery of1 #bed1 #bfa-bfc1 #bgg4 ,gymkhana games1 #bhb-bhi2 classes1 #bhb2 affinity race1 #bhd2 drag-hunt contest1 #bhf1 #bhg2 egg and spoon race1 #bhc2 music stall ride1 #bhc1 #bhd2 potato race1 #bhd1 #bhe2 tandem riding1 #bhg-bhi2 judge's stand1 #bhf4 ,habit1 the1 #gd1 #ajh-aae2 materials for1 #aae-aai4 ,hack1 the park1 #gh1 #hb1 #hc1 #ie1 #afj1 #afb1 #afh-agb1 #ahe2 road1 #agb4 ,hair1 arrangement of1 #abf1 #abg1 #bfj4 ,hands1 in driving four-in-hand and tandem1 #bai1 #bbb1 #bbf1 #bbi1 #bch4 ,hands1 in riding1 #ad-bi2 hunting1 #fd1 #fe2 lightness of1 #bh1 #bi2 position of left hand1 #ae1 #ah1 #ai2 right hand1 #bj-bc4 ,harness1 inspection of1 #aic1 #aie2 leather of1 #bgd-bgg2 mourning1 #bgg2 weight of1 #bge2 for four-in-hand1 #bbj2 ,english phaeton pair1 #bgi2 single phaeton1 #bgd2 single road1 #bgf2 double road1 #bgh1 #bhj2 show-ring1 #bde2 tandem1 #bcf4 ,hat1 riding1 #gd1 #abg1 #abh2 hat guard1 #abh4 ,hills1 driving up and down1 #bca1 #bch1 #bci1 #bea-bee4 ,hints on ,driving1 cited1 #bag4 ,hook1 invisible1 #ade-adg4 ,horse1 8combination10 #aei1 #agj-agc2 8five-gaited10 #db2 green1 #bf1 #bad2 points of1 #ahc2 saddle horse1 #aeg-agi2 selection of1 #ahj-aij2 in the show-ring1 #gg et seq42 tandem1 #bdj2 see also ,hack and ,hunter4 ,hunter1 the1 #fj1 #fb1 #fg1 #fh1 #gj-gb1 #afc-afi2 points of1 #afg2 in tandem harness1 #bdj4 ,hunting1 #eh-gf2 bit1 #gf2 costume1 #gc-ge2 etiquette1 #eh1 #fj1 #fa2 pace1 #gj1 #ga2 position of hands1 #fd1 #fe2 of body and legs1 #fe-fg2 saddle and bridle1 #ge1 #gf1 #adh2 seat1 #dd2 in the ,east1 #aff2 in the ,south1 #aff4 ,irish hunters1 #afd1 #afe2 pony1 #agf4 ,jewelry1 #acj4 ,jumping1 #dd1 #de1 #ei1 #fb1 #afi2 the martingale for1 #adg1 #adh2 position in1 #ad1 #ae1 #fd-fg2 three styles of1 #fc1 #fg2 with an ,english-trained hunter1 #fg1 #fh4 ,keeping to the right1 #ic1 #bee1 #bef4 ,kicking1 #ej1 #aje1 #ajf2 dangers of1 in driving1 #bad4 ,kicking straps1 #bad1 #bgd4 ,lady ,bonnie1 saddle mare1 #aeg1 #aeh4 ,lamps1 the1 #bab1 #bdh4 ,lap robe1 the1 #bfj4 ,leading a horse1 #id4 ,leaping horn1 the1 #i4 ,leggings1 #abd1 #acj4 ,legs1 position of1 in riding1 #g-ab4 ,limping1 #id1 #ie4 ,livery1 servant's1 #bed2 dress1 #bfa1 #bfb2 undress1 #bfb1 #bfc2 mourning1 #bgg4 ,loin straps1 #bgi4 ,mane1 the1 #bdd4 ,manners1 in a horse1 #ha1 #ahg4 ,martingale1 running1 #bh1 #gf1 #adg1 #adh2 standing1 #gf1 #aaf1 #adg-adi4 ,mexican saddle1 #db1 #dg4 ,morley-,knight1 ,capt4 ,c41 ,r4,a41 his ,how to ,drive1 #bja2 ,hints on ,driving1 #bag4 ,mounting1 cross-saddle1 ,english fashion1 #df-dh1 #ej2 military fashion1 #dh1 #di-ea4 ,mounting1 side-saddle1 without assistance1 #ca1 #cb2 with assistance1 #cb-cd2 from the block1 #cd1 #ce4 ,mouth1 the1 #ba1 #bc1 #ed1 #gf1 #aed1 #aee1 #bjd1 #bff2 8tricks10 #aef4 ,neckwear1 #ge1 #abe1 #abf4 ,noseband1 the1 #gf1 #adf-adh4 ,ornaments1 harness1 #bgc1 #bgf4 ,paddock1 the1 #ih4 ,park hack1 see ,hack4 ,park riding1 #afb2 costume for1 #aab2 position of hands in1 #ae1 #bg4 ,phaeton1 the1 #aid1 #bji1 #bde-bdg1 #bea1 #bed2 harness1 #bgd1 #bgi4 ,pole chains and pole pieces1 #bgh1 #bgi4 ,polo1 costume1 #agg2 playing1 side-saddle in1 #eg2 pony1 #agc-agg4 ,pony1 the polo1 #agc-agg2 the ,irish1 #agf2 the ,welsh1 #agh2 the ,shetland1 #agh1 #agi4 ,prices of riding clothes1 #acb4 ,private ,stable1 ,the1 see ,garland4 8,pullers10 #bc1 #gf1 #ahh2 driving1 #bff4 ,puttees1 #abd1 #acj4 ,raincoat1 the1 #aji1 #aah1 #aai4 ,rearing1 #ch1 #ej1 #ed1 #aje1 #adg1 #adh2 when driving1 #bac1 #bad4 ,reins1 in driving1 measuring1 #aif1 #bbc2 8modern0 position of1 #aii1 #bja-bjc1 #baa2 8orthodox0 position of1 #aih2 pulling through terret1 #bae2 quality of1 #bgf2 shortening and lengthening1 #bja1 #bjg1 #bjh1 #baj2 stopping1 #bjd-bjf2 turning1 #bjf-bjh2 four-in-hand and tandem driving1 #bai1 #bbb-bcb4 ,reins1 in riding1 #ae-bh2 adjusting1 #ag2 in astride riding1 #bg2 holding of1 #ah2 in both hands1 #bf1 #bg2 leather of1 #add2 position of1 #ah1 #bj2 position of1 for beginners1 #bf1 #bg2 relying on1 for keeping seat1 #ed2 reversing curb and snaffle1 #bd1 #be1 #bh2 shortening1 #bb2 taking up of1 #ae-ag2 tightening the curb1 #bc1 #bd2 turning to the left1 #ba1 #bb2 to right1 #ba2 when jumping1 #fd1 #fe1 #fg2 width of1 #ade4 ,resting a horse1 #ia1 #ih4 ,riding1 astride1 #cg-eg2 bareback1 #ci1 #de1 #df2 hints on1 #ia-ajg2 park1 #afb1 #afc2 show-ring1 #hd-ij4 ,road coach1 a perfectly appointed1 #bah4 ,road hack1 the1 #agb4 ,rogers1 ,fairman1 his ,a ,manual of ,coaching1 #bag4 ,rosettes1 #bhj4 ,rumble1 the1 #beg1 #beh4 ,runaway1 stopping1 #bc1 #ajg4 ,saddle1 see ,cross-saddle and ,side-saddle4 ,saddle horse1 the1 #aeg-aij2 color of1 #aeh-afj2 combination type1 #agj-agc2 conditions demanded of1 #ahf et seq42 conformation in1 #ahf1 #ahg2 cost of1 #ahd2 gaits of1 #afj1 #afa2 the hack1 #afj1 #afb1 #agj-agb2 the hunter1 #afc-afi2 points of1 #ahc2 the polo pony1 #agc-agg2 selection of1 #ahj-aij2 the thoroughbred1 #afa-afc2 trial of1 #ahg-aij4 ,sandwich cases and flasks1 #ge4 ,seat1 the1 close1 in riding astride1 #dd1 #de1 #ed-eg2 hunting1 #dd2 military1 #db1 #dd2 park1 #dd4 ,shetland pony1 #agh1 #agi4 ,shirt1 the riding1 #abe4 ,show-ring driving1 appointments of1 #bde-bdi2 correct form of holding reins in1 #bja2 gloves for1 #bfa2 ladies' class in a country show1 #hi2 tandem in1 #bce1 #bcf4 ,show-ring riding1 #gg-ij2 combination horse for1 #agc2 ,english method of showing horses1 #hb1 #hc2 important points to remember1 #hf-hh1 #ij2 the judges1 #gi2 long-tailed and docked horses in1 #ie1 #if2 manners of horse in1 #ha2 preparation of horse for1 #hj1 #ha2 requirements in1 #hd1 #he4 ,shying1 #cj1 #de1 #ajc1 #ajd1 #bac4 ,side-saddle1 the1 advantages of1 #cg1 #ch2 the balance strap1 #adc1 #add2 construction of1 #ace-acg2 diagram for measuring1 #adj2 dress for1 #gd1 #ajh-acj2 the flaps1 #acf1 #acg1 #aci2 the frame1 #acg2 the girths1 #ada1 #adb2 lining1 #aci-ada2 padding1 #ach1 #aci2 park and hunting1 #acd2 in polo playing1 #eg2 selection of1 #acc1 #acd4 ,skirt1 safety1 #gd1 #ajc1 #ajh1 #aaa2 divided1 #acj4 ,snaffle reins1 #ae-ag1 #bf2 reversing position of1 #bd1 #be1 #bh4 ,spur1 the1 #acj4 ,stallions1 #aij4 ,starting1 #baa1 #bab1 #beb2 four-in-hand1 #bbe4 ,stick1 position of1 #ah1 #ai2 #abi4 ,stirrups1 the1 adjusting1 #i1 #ea2 beginning without1 #de2 position of feet in1 #dd2 when jumping1 #fe2 safety1 #ajc4 ,stopping a horse1 #bb1 #bc2 when driving1 #bjd-bjf1 #beb2 four-in-hand1 #bbh4 ,straightening the team1 #bbg1 #bbh4 ,swales1 ,frank1 his ,driving ,as ,i ,have ,found ,it1 #bja4 ,tandem carts1 #bcb1 #bce-bch2 balance of1 #bcg1 #bch4 ,tandem driving1 #bag et seq41 #bcb-bcd2 dress for1 #bei1 #bfj2 going downhill1 #bci2 harness1 #bcf2 horses1 #bdj4 ,thoroughbred1 the1 #afa-afc1 #afe2 riding1 #afc4 ,tongue over bit1 #aec1 #aed4 ,tools1 #bab4 ,training a horse1 #ii1 #ajj4 ,traps1 dress for1 #bei2 formal1 #bde-bdi2 inspection of1 #aic2 stepping into1 #aid-aig2 stepping out of1 #bae1 #baf2 various styles of1 #bji4 ,turning1 in driving1 to the left1 #bjf1 #bjg2 to the right1 #bjg2 using the whip when1 #bjh2 four-in-hand1 #bbh-bcb2 tandem1 #bcc2 traps1 #bec4 ,turning1 in riding1 to left1 #ba1 #bb2 to right1 #ba2 in the saddle1 #ajb1 #ajc4 ,underhill1 ,frank1 his ,driving for ,pleasure1 #bag4 ,underwear1 #abj1 #acj4 ,waistcoats1 #aji1 #aad1 #aae4 ,walking a horse1 in the show-ring1 #hh1 #ij4 ,watering a horse1 #if1 #ig4 ,welsh pony1 #agg1 #agh4 ,whip1 the1 in driving1 catching the thong of1 #bai-bbb1 #bcd2 position of1 #aih-bjj1 #bjb2 selection of1 #bha2 signalling with1 #bef1 #beg2 use of1 #bjc1 #bjd1 #bab1 #bac2 when turning1 #bjh4 ,whip1 in riding1 position of1 #ae1 #ah1 #ai2 when hunting1 #ge2 with a companion1 #aja1 #ajb1 #abi4 ,winkers1 #bgi4 ,wrist1 supple1 #ai1 #bj4 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's ,notes4 ,punctuation has been standardised1 and simple typographical errors have been repaired4 ,inconsistencies in hyphenation1 and obsolete or variant spelling have been preserved4