,ver4#aj_/jd_/ja99;,,end99 ,this etext was prepared by ,col ,choat colchoatgutenberg4org4au ,the ,art of ,living in ,australia by ,philip ,e4 ,muskett 78-#aiji7 ,together with three hundred ,australian cookery recipes and accessory kitchen information by ,mrs4 ,h4 ,wicken1 ,lecturer on cookery to the ,technical ,college1 ,sydney4 ,,dedication ,,australia--,,one ,,and ,,united4 ,,as ,,an ,,australian ,i ,,dedicate ,,this ,,volume ,,to ,,the ,,people ,,of ,,australia ,,with ,,one ,,abiding ,,hope ,,for ,,the ,,development ,,of ,,all ,,the3 ,,great ,,natural ,,food ,,industries ,,of ,,our ,,country4 ,,preface4 ,although this work fully deals with all the many matters connected with the art of living in ,australia1 its principal object is the attempt to bring about some improvement in the extraordinary food-habits at present in vogue4 ,for years past the fact that our people live in direct opposition to their semi-tropical environment has been constantly before me4 ,as it will be found in the opening portion of the chapter on ,school ,cookery1 the consumption of butcher's meat and of tea is enormously in excess of any common sense requirements1 and is paralleled nowhere else in the world4 ,on the other hand1 there has been no real attempt to develop our deep-sea fisheries2 market gardening is deplorably neglected1 only a few of the more ordinary varieties being cultivated2 salads1 which are easily within the daily reach of every home1 are conspicuous by their absence2 and ,australian wine1 which should be the national beverage of every-day life1 is at table--almost a curiosity4 ,nearly three years have been occupied in the preparation of this volume1 as several of the subjects it treats of have hitherto remained practically unexplored4 ,this statement is not intended to excuse any shortcomings1 but simply to explain the impediments which had to be overcome4 ,there has been some little difficulty1 therefore1 in obtaining information in many instances4 ,at the same time1 it must be cheerfully recorded that assistance was freely forthcoming on the part of those from whom it was sought4 ,quite a number have been interviewed on the topics with which they were familiar2 and on several occasions this has necessitated journeys out of ,sydney on the writer's part4 ,with the object of making inquiries into the fish supply of ,melbourne1 also1 a special visit was paid to that city4 ,and further1 in order to gain an insight into vineyard work and cellar management1 an instructive time was passed at ,dr4 ,t4 ,fiaschi's magnificent ,tizzana vineyard on the ,hawkesbury ,river4 ,it may seem to savour somewhat of boldness1 yet ,i hazard the opinion that the real development of ,australia will never actually begin till this wilful violation of her people's food-life ceases4 ,for let us suppose that the semi-tropical character of our ,australian life was duly appreciated by one and all4 ,if such were the case--and ,i would it were so--there would be a wonderful change from the present state of affairs4 ,but as it is1 the manners and customs of the ,australians are a perpetual challenge to the range of temperature in which they live4 ,indeed1 the form of food they indulge in proves incontestably that they have never yet realized their semi-tropical environment4 ,with a proper recognition of existing climatic surroundings there would be an overwhelming demand for more fish food2 for something better than the present ,liliputian supply2 and for the creation of extensive deep-sea fisheries4 ,fish in ,australia is nothing more than a high-priced luxury1 although projects for the development of the deep-sea fisheries have been repeatedly suggested4 ,somehow or other we never get beyond this stage1 and as a consequence the yield from our fisheries is simply pitiable4 ,a widespread use of fish and an adequate fish supply would give employment to hundreds and to thousands4 ,as ,i have pointed out in the chapter relating to this subject1 the want of enterprise shown in starting our deep-sea fisheries is an inexplicable anomaly4 ,if the ,australian people had sprung from an inland race1 this would not1 perhaps1 have been so difficult to understand4 ,but coming1 as we do1 from a stock the most maritime the world has ever seen1 such a defect is not to our credit as inheritors of the old traditions4 ,nor can it be pretended that market gardening has ever been taken up seriously1 if we apply the statement to ,australia as a whole4 ,it is true that ,sydney and ,melbourne1 and possibly ,adelaide and ,brisbane1 have made an attempt in this direction4 ,but even with this admission there is not much reason for congratulation from an olitory point of view4 ,few--only very few--of the more commonly known varieties are grown4 ,for if the potato and the cabbage were taken away1 ,australia would be almost bereft of vegetables4 ,there are1 however1 many others1 which are delicious and wholesome1 which are easily grown1 and which would make a pleasing addition to the present monotonously restricted choice4 ,and there is something even more than all this4 ,it is1 that market gardening is a healthy and profitable calling2 that it settles the people on the land2 and that it creates a class of small landed proprietors--the very bone and sinew of any population4 ,in the chapter relating to ,australian ,food ,habits it will be found that many of these desirable vegetables are enumerated4 ,their good qualities are highly appreciated on the ,continent and elsewhere1 and there is no earthly reason why they should not be grown here4 ,the history of the introduction of the tomato into ,australia is instructive in this connection4 ,for years and years it struggled desperately1 but unsuccessfully1 for a place1 and the attempt to bring it into use was on the point of being abandoned in consequence4 ,but at last its undeniable merits were acknowledged1 and to-day it is in universal request4 ,now1 it is perfectly safe to assume that the same recognition would be awarded to many other vegetables vegetables at present practically unknown in ,australia4 ,for instance1 sweet corn--which1 however1 must not be confused with ,indian corn--is of exquisite flavour1 almost melting in the mouth1 while it possesses also eminently nourishing properties4 ,it is a great favourite with ,americans1 and hundreds of acres are required annually for the ,new ,york markets alone4 ,but if there is one desirable form of food which we should expect to find in daily use by the whole ,community1 it is surely the salad4 ,more than this1 it deserves to meet with favour as a national dish4 ,it takes pre-eminent rank in ,southern ,europe1 and is certainly entitled to occupy a similar high position in the ,australian food list4 ,unfortunately there is just the same story to tell1 and the strange neglect of salads can only be expressed by the term incomprehensible4 ,it is a waste-saving dish2 it is wholesome1 in that it is purifying to the blood2 it is full of infinite variety2 and its low price brings it within easy every-day reach even of the humblest dwelling4 ,but1 as things are1 even the salad plants themselves are represented by a meagre list1 and are confined to only few varieties4 ,and as far as salad herbs are concerned1 they are literally unknown4 ,now1 although ,i am strongly of opinion that a more widespread use of fish1 vegetables1 and salads in ,australia would be attended by the happiest results 7both by benefiting the national health and by developing ,australia's food-industries71 yet it must not be understood that ,i countenance vegetarianism4 ,so far from being a vegetarian1 ,i am one of those who firmly believe in the advantages derived from a mixed diet4 ,but my assertion is that we in ,australia habitually consume an injurious amount of meat to the exclusion of far more needed nourishment4 ,the golden rule as far as the ,australian dietary is concerned is a minimum of meat1 and a relatively maximum amount of the other classes of food4 ,the influence which food exercises upon health is a matter of far-reaching importance1 in that it affects the daily life of the whole population4 ,amongst others1 the following medical writers--,sir ,james ,risdon ,bennett1 ,dr4 ,j4 ,milner ,fothergill1 ,dr4 ,t4 ,king ,chambers1 and ,dr4 ,j4,h4 ,bennett--have in the past contributed much to this subject4 ,in the present day1 ,sir ,henry ,thompson1 ,sir ,william ,roberts1 ,dr4 ,t4 ,lauder ,brunton1 ,dr4 ,f4,w4 ,pavy1 ,dr4 ,burney ,yeo1 and many more have given their advocacy to the same purpose4 ,it is urged by all these authorities that there is a needless consumption of animal food even in the old country1 and they all agree that an exaggerated value is attached to butcher's meat on the part of the public4 ,if representative medical opinion thus protests against the use of an unnecessary amount of animal diet in the climatic conditions obtaining in the ,united ,kingdom1 how much more would the misuse of the same food in a semi-tropical climate like ,australia be disapproved of6 ,indeed1 ,i am perfectly certain1 that were those who have given attention to food and dietetics in possession of the facts1 they would unhesitatingly condemn the grotesque inversion of food-habits at present in vogue throughout ,australia4 ,there is one very important matter which unquestionably requires to have special attention drawn to it4 ,i refer to the customary ,australian mid-day meal4 ,strange to say1 all through the hot season1 as well as the rest of the year1 this consists in most cases of a heavy repast always comprising meat4 ,why1 even in the cooler months1 a ponderous meal of this kind is not required6 ,my own views are that meat in the middle of the day is quite unnecessary1 and1 indeed1 during the hot months actually prejudicial4 ,most people in ,australia1 after a fair trial1 will find that a lunch of some warm soup1 with a course perhaps of some fish1 and vegetables1 or salad1 or whatever it may be to follow1 will not only be ample1 but will give them a sensation of buoyancy in the afternoon they never before experienced4 ,among the recipes will be found many which may help to bring about a reform in this respect4 ,the heavier meal should certainly be towards the evening after the sun-heat of the day is over1 at which time it is more enjoyed and better digested4 ,having thus far referred to our totally inadequate supply of fish food1 of vegetables1 and of salad plants and herbs1 there is still the great ,australian wine industry to consider4 ,at present only in its swaddling clothes1 it is destined before very long to enter upon its vigorous life4 ,there was an eminent ,french naturalist1 ,m4,f4 ,peron1 sent out to ,australia by the ,emperor ,napoleon during the years #ahja to #ahjd inclusive4 ,a shrewd observer1 he saw even at that early period of ,australian history that there were unequalled possibilities for her wine4 ,in the course of his interesting narrations he remarks3--,by one of those chances which are inconceivable1 ,great ,britain is the only one of the great maritime powers which does not cultivate the vine1 either in its own territories or its colonies2 notwithstanding1 the consumption of wine on board its fleets and throughout its vast regions is immense4 ,in the whole of ,australia the annual production of wine is only a little over three million gallons2 but in ,france1 as well as in ,italy1 it is nearly #hjj million gallons4 ,these two countries together1 therefore1 every year produce about #a1eif million gallons more wine than ,australia4 ,these stupendous figures reveal very plainly what an enormous expansion awaits our wine industry4 ,the colossal growth of the wool trade is in striking contrast to the puny dimensions of the wine industry4 ,in #ahje the exportation of wool from ,australia was nil4 ,in #ahaa it reached to the modest amount of #afg lbs41 while ,spain exported #f1hie1ebe lbs4 ,in #ahfa the exportation of wool from ,australia increased to #fh1dbh1jjj lbs41 whilst from ,spain it fell to #a1bfh1fag lbs4 ,and lastly1 in #ahia the amount of wool exported from ,australia reached the majestic figures of #eic1hcj1aec lbs41 representing a value of #bj1efi1jic pounds4 ,if ,new ,zealand be included1 the total export attains to #gaj1cib1iji lbs41 having a value of #bd1fih1ggi pounds4 ,it must be borne in mind that these figures represent only the wool actually exported1 and do not include that kept back for ,australian requirements4 ,as ,i have pointed out in the beginning of the chapter on ,australian wine1 if the latter industry had increased in similar proportion1 ,australia's prosperity would be second to none in the world4 ,there are some other striking figures which are well worth referring to4 ,the city of ,paris alone requires nearly #cjj1jjj gallons of wine daily4 ,now1 the total yearly wine production of the whole of ,australia is but a little over three million gallons4 ,it will follow from the preceding1 then1 that the single city of ,paris itself would consume in #ab days all the wine which the whole of ,australia takes #ab ,,months to make4 ,the future prosperity of ,australia1 at least to a very great extent1 is wrapped up in her wine industry2 for its development means much more than a large export trade to other countries4 ,it means1 in fact1 the use of ,australian wine as a national and every-day wholesome beverage2 it means the covering of the land with smiling vineyards2 it means employment and a healthy calling literally to thousands upon thousands2 and1 lastly1 it means settlement upon the land1 and a more diffused distribution of the population throughout ,australia4 ,it must be remembered that the nervous system is far more susceptible to the effects of alcohol in a warm than in a cooler climate4 ,it is said that in ,southern ,europe there are very few water drinkers1 but that1 on the other hand1 there are very few who indulge in strong drink4 ,the system does not feel to want the strong alcohol1 so to speak4 ,a weaker wine in a warm climate produces the same feeling of exhilaration that one of greater alcoholic strength does in colder countries4 ,we shall not go far wrong in ,australia if we stick to our own natural wines4 ,as it will be found in the chapter on ,australian wine1 the every-day wine for ,australian use is a wine of low alcoholic strength2 a wine of which a tumblerful may be taken with benefit2 a wine1 indeed1 which is beneficial1 cheering1 hygienic1 restorative1 and wholesome4 ,by reason of his semi-tropical climate the ,australian is bathed in an atmosphere of sunshine4 ,this has a distinct effect upon the blood1 for the action of sunlight upon this fluid is to redden it--a fact which has for ages been dwelt upon by the poets4 ,but for a scientific explanation of this effect of sunlight in reddening the blood we must turn to the spectrum analysis4 ,the visible solar spectrum as shown through a prism by the ordinary sunbeam is made up of the seven different colours1 namely1 red1 orange1 yellow1 green1 blue1 indigo1 and violet4 ,instead of consisting simply of white light as a whole1 it is now universally accepted that in this spectrum different properties belong to different parts4 ,light or luminous power to one portion2 heat or calorific power to another2 and chemical power or actinism to a third4 ,the visible solar or ,newtonian luminous spectrum1 resulting from the decomposition of white light by a prism1 is only the middle portion of the whole solar spectrum4 ,beyond the red end there are rays possessing still greater-heating effect2 and beyond the violet extremity there are rays endowed with far more powerful chemical action4 ,the violet1 and especially these latter ultra-violet rays1 redden the life stream by increasing the haemoglobin--that crystallizable body which forms so large a portion of the coloured corpuscles of the blood4 ,sunlight1 moreover1 has not only this action upon the animal kingdom1 but also upon the vegetable world as well ,plants1 like celery1 which are subjected to blanching1 become whitened under the process of etiolation4 ,this is due to the absence of chlorophyll1 the green colouring matter of plants1 which can only be developed by the presence of light4 ,the tops of celery1 being unearthed1 retain their green colour1 while the stem embedded in the soil acquires its familiar whiteness4 ,many philosophical writers1 notably ,david ,hume and ,charles ,comte1 ,c4 ,montesquieu in his ,l',esprit des ,lois1 and ,henry ,thomas ,buckle in his ,,history ,,of ,,civilisation ,,in ,,england1 have dilated upon the influence which climate exerts over race1 and all their forceful opinions are to the effect that the character of a people is moulded by climatic conditions4 ,more than this1 the same new was entertained by the classic writers2 for we find the philosopher and orator ,cicero recording his belief that ,athens has a light atmosphere1 whence the ,athenians are thought to be more keenly intelligent2 ,thebes a dense one1 and the ,thebans fat-witted accordingly4 ,again1 ,horace1 the poet and satirist1 has given us the famous passage3-- ,you would swear he 7,alexander the ,great7 was born in the dense atmosphere of the ,boeotians4 ,but the influence of climate is not confined to ordinary conditions alone1 because without the shadow of a doubt it controls disease as well4 ,as it is well known1 certain diseases are peculiar to1 and confined to1 certain regions4 ,and1 moreover1 a malady will vary in its type in different zones4 ,thus the disease known as rickets is in the old country marked in many cases by bending of the bones1 giving rise to deformities of the limbs1 c4 ,the ,australian type of the disorder1 however1 is milder altogether1 and is of a different character4 ,the ,australian child is straight-limbed almost without exception1 yet the ,australian type of rickety disease1 as ,i pointed out in #ahia1 is quite a definite affection4 ,at the ,congress of ,naturalists and ,physicians at ,strasburg in #ahhe the great ,german pathologist1 ,professor ,virchow1 called attention to a sphere of research in which1 he alleged1 neither the ,french nor the ,english had hitherto accomplished anything of importance1 namely1 the modifications of the organism1 and particularly of the special alterations of each organ1 connected with the phenomena of acclimatization4 ,this reproach cannot be denied4 ,we have not yet reached the stage in ,australia of noting the effect which climate has upon the system in general1 much less of inquiring into the changes which occur in such organs as the liver1 spleen1 c4 ,but apart from investigating the phenomena of acclimatization1 it is very plain that the people of ,australia have never given any heed to their semitropical climate1 or else the food-faults now universally practised would have been rectified long before this4 ,it has always been a matter of interesting speculation as to what the characteristic type of the future ,australian will be4 ,but reflections of this kind can only be in the right direction by bearing in mind the ever-present climatic conditions4 ,climate is of all forces the most irresistible2 for1 on the one hand1 the ,great ,desert of ,sahara could not be crossed in an ,arctic costume and on ,esquimaux diet2 nor1 on the other1 could the ,polar regions be explored in a ,hindoo garb and on ,oriental fare4 ,and though blood is thicker than water1 yet the resistless influence of a semi-tropical range of temperature will be to imprint on the descendants of the present inhabitants of ,australia some marked peculiarities of skin-colour1 of facial expression1 of lingual accent1 and perhaps even of bodily conformation4 ,quite recently an observing writer1 in a keenly analytical if somewhat facetious article1 gave it as his opinion that the coming ,australians will be as follows3--,they will not be so entirely agricultural as the ,americans were2 they will be horsemen1 not gig-drivers4 ,descended from adventurers1 not from ,puritans1 and eager1 as men of their climate must be1 for pleasant lives1 they will thirst for dependent possessions1 for gardens where fortunes grow4 ,the early ,americans were men of austere temper1 who led1 on an ungrateful soil1 lives of permanent hardship4 ,they had to fight the sea1 the snow1 the forest1 the ,indians1 and their own hearts4 ,the ,australians1 with a warmer climate1 without ,puritan traditions1 with wealth among them from the first1 will be a softer1 though not a weaker people2 fonder of luxury1 and better fitted to enjoy ,art1 with an appreciation of beauty which the ,americans have never shown4 ,they will be a people growing and drinking wine1 caring much for easy society1 addicted to conversation1 and never happy without servants4 ,the note of discontent which penetrates the whole ,american character will be absent4 ,from the climatic standpoint alone it is safe to predict that the future ,australian will be more nearly akin to the inhabitants of ,southern ,europe than to his progenitors in the old country2 though1 naturally1 there will be considerable diversity between the native born of the various regions1 covering as they do such a vast extent of territory4 ,the ample opportunities for outdoor life will do much towards ensuring physical development4 ,and1 finally1 the imaginative faculties will be very active1 and it is quite permissible to hope that in time there will be a long roll of artists1 musicians1 and poets4 ,as it will be seen1 a considerable portion of this work is taken up with the practical side of living1 as exemplified by the ,australian ,cookery ,recipes4 ,from the very first it was recognised that it was imperative to include them within its compass4 ,it occurred to me1 however1 that this important department would better be undertaken by someone thoroughly conversant with the subject4 ,with this object in view1 therefore1 ,i submitted to ,mrs4 ,h4 ,wicken what ,i required4 ,i knew ,mrs4 ,wicken to be well qualified for the task from the following facts1 namely1 that she had previously been successful in her culinary writings2 that she was a ,diplomee of the ,national ,training ,school for ,cookery1 ,south ,kensington2 and that she occupied the responsible post of lecturer to the ,technical ,college1 ,sydney4 ,my propositions were that the recipes were to be written purely for ,australian use1 and that they were to be of the strictly economical order4 ,mrs4 ,wicken accepted the task1 and it can only be hoped that her efforts will meet with the approbation they deserve4 ,in their original form the three chapters on ,australian ,food ,habits1 ,australian ,fish and ,oysters1 and on ,salads1 appeared in ,,the ,,daily ,,telegraph1 ,sydney4 ,i take this opportunity1 therefore1 of expressing my sense of obligation to the ,proprietors thereof for their courtesy in permitting me to make complete use of these three contributions4 ,as they now appear in chapters they have been revised1 considerably altered1 and materially added to1 for the purposes of reproduction in book form4 #adc1 ,elizabeth ,street ,hyde ,park1 ,sydney ,september #ahic ,,epigraph ,a farmer being on the point of death1 and wishing to show his sons the way to success in farming1 called them to him and said--,my children ,i am now departing this life1 but all that ,i have to leave you1 you will find in the vineyard4 ,the sons1 supposing that he referred to some hidden treasure1 as soon as the old man was dead1 set to work with their spades and ploughs and every implement that was at hand1 and turned up the soil over and over again4 ,they found indeed no treasure2 but the vines1 strengthened and improved by this thorough tillage1 yielded a finer vintage than they had ever yielded before1 and more than repaid the young husbandmen for all their trouble4 ,so truly is industry in itself a treasure4--,,the ,,fables ,,of ,,aesop4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,the ,,climate ,,of ,,australia4 ,their semi-tropical climate hitherto unrecognised by the people of ,australia--,reasons advanced for this statement2 early gold-mining era influences still at work1 and ,anglo-,saxon heredities--,hot months and cooler months2 temperatures of the ,australian capital cities--,fluctuations of temperature and barometric pressure not extreme--,equability of ,australian climate a marked feature--,not many successive days of great heat--,humidity of atmosphere in different colonies--,a dry heat always preferable to a moist heat--,duration of the different seasons1 and months apportioned to each season--,prevailing winds1 and ,,role of hot winds ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,the ,,alphabetical ,,pentagon ,,of ,,health ,,for ,,australia4 ,the ,alphabetical ,pentagon a convenient form of remembering that the ,,five essentials of health--namely1 ,ablution3 the ,skin and the ,bath2 ,bedroom ,ventilation2 ,clothing2 ,diet2 and ,exercise--occur in alphabetical order ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,ablution--,,the ,,skin ,,and ,,the ,,bath4 ,important and numerous functions of the skin--,the skin itself and its different parts--,the use of the scarf skin--,the structure of the true skin--,the perspiration tubes--,the tubes of the oil-glands--,great value of the cold bath--,importance of the rubbing down after the cold bath--,the cold bath as a preventive of disease--,the cold bath in the maintenance of health--,the warm cleansing bath--,the beneficial effect of adding salt at the end of a warm bath--,other interesting hints ,loss of hair in ,australia--,structure of the hair1 and its blood supply --,the hair is not a tube--,management of the hair--,singeing the hair-- ,washing the hair--,description of brushes and combs recommended--,hard rim of the hat a factor in thinning the hair--,excellent applications for promoting the growth of the hair ,formation of the nail--,different parts of the nail--,growth of the nail--,the care of the nails ,disorders arising from loss of teeth--,the preservation of the teeth-- ,an admirable recipe for a tooth-powder--,management of the teeth--,use of floss silk ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,bedroom ,,ventilation4 ,the bedroom the most important room in the house--necessity for proper ventilation--,extra allowance of sleep in hot climates--,crowding of articles in bedrooms condemned--,results of breathing vitiated air--,injuriously affects the heart as well as the lungs--,the proper dimensions of a bedroom--,regulation of the ventilation--,mosquito nettings for summer months--,fresh air equally required in the cooler months ,,chapter ,v4 ,,clothing1 ,,and ,,what ,,to ,,wear4 ,no clothing actually creates warmth of itself--,the varying powers of clothing to detain air in its meshes--,two or three layers of clothing always warmer than a single garment equal to their combined thickness--,the transmission of the body-heat to the clothes--,the different fabrics are either good or bad conductors of heat--,permeability of clothing to air--,the vegetable kingdom2 the properties of cotton and of linen--,the animal products2 the properties of silk and of wool--,wool one of the best materials to wear next the skin--,recommendations for wearing woollen under-garments --,the way to prevent them from shrinking--,the modern pyjamas immensely superior to the old-fashioned bed-gown--,the clothing would be modified according to the season of the year4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,diet--,,importance ,,of ,,breakfast1 ,,fruit1 ,,tea1 ,,coffee1 ,,iced ,,drinks1 ,,tobacco4 ,breakfast usually scampered through--,monotony of the ordinary breakfast--,a plea for something better--,butter during ,australian summer months--,the ice-chest an absolute necessity-- ,breakfast should be a substantial meal ,fruit fortunately abundant in ,australia--,the agreeable qualities of fruits reside in three factors--,fruit must neither be over-ripe nor under-ripe--,the anti-scorbutic properties of fruit--,changes in the blood in scurvy--,mild forms of scurvy not uncommon--,symptoms of an excess of uric acid in the stem--,a word for olives ,abuse of tea by the gentler sex--,protest against lunch of tea and broad and butter--,an admirable opportunity for philanthropic efforts-- ,tea to be enjoyed1 and not misused--,the making of tea--,the anti-tannic teapot ,the three active principles of coffee--,coffee stimulates the brain-- ,coffee relieves fatigue and exhaustion1 whether mental or manual--,the virtues of coffee--,coffee as a remedy in different diseases--,the details of coffee roasting--,the art of making coffee--,the cafetiere1 or ,french coffee-pot--,proportions of coffee and of chicory in cafe noir and cafe au lait respectively--,minute instructions for making coffee ,universal use of ice in ,america--,ice indispensable in hot climates-- ,expert opinions upon the value of ice in ,india--,medical authorities practically unanimous in favour of ice when used with discretion-- ,purity of the ice must be ensured ,proportion of smokers to non-smokers--,five out of every six men smoke --,amount of tobacco used in ,australia and in other countries--,the effect of tobacco on the system provisionally divided into three classes--,the principles contained in tobacco--,different results of combustion from a cigar and from a pipe--,effect of tobacco when it is unsuitable--,symptoms following excessive smoking--,the smokers heart-- ,men of middle age often compelled to give up tobacco--,effect of tobacco upon the palate--,power to appreciate good wine lost after the first whiff of cigarette1 cigar1 or pipe ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,exercise4 ,effect of exercise upon the muscles--,exercise removes debris from the system--,bodily health the great desideratum of the present day--,will power increased by exercise--,exercise improves the quality of the blood--,exercise strengthens the heart and lungs1 and benefits the nervous system--,every one must perform his own exercise2 no carrying it out by proxy--,walking six miles a day the orthodox amount of exercise--,early morning exercise not beneficial to everybody--,it is only by exercise1 and by exercise alone1 that the different organs are brought to the perfection of health ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,on ,,school ,,cookery1 ,,and ,,its ,,influence ,,on ,,the ,,australian ,,daily ,,life4 ,enormous consumption of meat and of tea in ,australia--,a contest between a semi-tropical climate and ,anglo-,saxon heredities-- ,progressive changes in the theories of education--,the purpose of education--,school cookery instruction in ,england and in ,australia-- ,cookery in its relation to health--,cookery as a preventive of drunkenness--,cookery in the formation of character--,a national plea on behalf of ,australian school cookery ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,australian ,,food ,,habits1 ,,and ,,their ,,faults--,a ,,plea ,,for ,,their ,,improvement4 ,food usually in harmony with climate1 except in ,australia --,isothermal lines of ,australian cities1 ,southern ,europe1 and southern portion of ,united ,states--,australian food habits diametrically opposed to climate--,lamentable state of ,australian cookery--,restricted choice of vegetables in ,australia--,many other desirable vegetables never seen here1 but in great request elsewhere--,no possible excuse1 as they would all do well--,extraordinary trouble in popularising the tomato in ,australia--,a protest against boiling1 and nothing but boiling1 in the cookery of vegetables--,cookery must be taught in ,australian schools--,no national ,australian dish1 a reproach to ,australia ,,chapter ,x4 ,,australian ,,fish ,,and ,,oysters--,,and ,,their ,,food ,,value4 ,no deep-sea fisheries in ,australia1 although her people come from a maritime stock--,the defectiveness of our ,australian fish supply--,our primitive methods of fish capture--,the beam-trawl in deep-sea fishing--,drift-net and other deep-sea fishing--,benefits from the development of our deep-sea fisheries--,fish markets--,the middleman controversy--,the distribution of fish to the public--,fishmongers and the sale of fish-- ,the development of the oyster--,the failure in the ,new ,south ,wales and ,victorian oyster supplies--,the recreation of our oyster fisheries-- ,the food value of the oyster--,the food value of fish ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,on ,,salads2 ,,salad ,,plants ,,and ,,herbs2 ,,and ,,salad ,,making4 ,salads plainly intended for ,australian use--,many people miss the present in looking for the future--,cookery of the highest excellence amongst all classes in ,france--,a contrast between the ,english and the ,french methods of making a salad--,detailed instructions for the preparation of a ,french salad--,importance of a roomy and properly shaped salad bowl--,poor display of greengrocery in ,australia as compared with the show of meat--,salad plants in great request elsewhere which might readily be cultivated in ,australia--,salad herbs indispensable to a proper salad1 but entirely unknown in ,australia--,a complete recipe for the famous ,mayonnaise sauce--,an excellent recipe for a herring salad ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,on ,,australian ,,wine1 ,,and ,,its ,,place ,,in ,,the ,,australian ,,daily ,,dietary4 ,with time and care ,australia ought to be the vineyard of the world--,interesting facts in the early history of the vine in ,australia--,figures showing the possibilities of ,australian viticulture --,the climate--,the soil--,cepage1 or variety--,the preparation of the soil--,laying-out the vineyard--,whether to plant cuttings or rooted vines--,the height of the vine above the ground--,on pruning-- ,the cellar--,the gathering of she grape--,varying additions to the must --,the must itself--,fermentation--,,the ,,tasting ,,and ,,judging ,,of ,,wines-- uniformity required in ,australian wines--,the future success of the ,australian wine industry1 and upon what it depends ,,part ,i4 ,,the ,,art ,,of ,,living ,,in ,,australia ,,chapter ,i4 ,,the ,,climate ,,of ,,australia4 ,australia1 forming as it does a vast island continent in the ,southern world1 lies to some extent within the tropical range1 for the ,tropic of ,capricorn traverses its northern part4 ,at present1 however1 its most densely populated portion lies just outside the tropics1 and it is this semi-tropical part of ,australia with which we have mostly to do4 ,and apart1 too1 from the mere fact of ,australia being between certain parallels of latitude1 which makes its climate tropical or semi-tropical1 as the case may be1 its position is peculiar in that it forms this enormous ocean-girt continent already described4 ,one of the most extraordinary circumstances in connection with the ,australian people is1 that they have never yet realized their semi-tropical environment4 ,it would naturally be supposed that a dominating influence of this kind would have1 from the very first1 exercised an irresistible effect on their mode of living4 ,but1 on the contrary1 the type of the ,australian dwelling-house1 the clothing of the ,australian people1 and1 what is more significant than anything else1 their food habits1 prove incontestably that they have never recognised the semi-tropical character of their climate all over the rest of the world it will be found that the inhabitants of different regions adapt themselves to their surroundings4 ,for instance1 the ,laplander and the ,hindoo live in such a widely different manner1 that one can scarcely believe they belong to the same human family4 ,it has1 however1 been reserved for ,australia1 strange even from the first1 to prove an exception to this universal law4 ,yes1 strange even from the first6 ,for did not the earliest arrivals find that the seasons came at the wrong time of the year2 that ,christmas-tide came with sunshine1 and that the middle of the year was its coolest part8 ,were there not found in it curious animals1 partly quadruped1 partly bird1 and partly reptile8 ,were there not discovered1 also1 other animals who carried their young in a pouch8 ,moreover1 did ,dot these first settlers see that the trees shed their bark1 and not their leaves2 and that the stones were on the outside1 not the inside1 of the cherries8 ,but even admitting these peculiarities of season1 of ,,fauna and of flora it may be asked1 ,how is it that the people of ,australia have never adapted themselves to their climatic surroundings8 ,the answer1 or rather answers1 to such an interrogation must largely consist of matters of opinion4 ,this being the case1 therefore1 ,i call do no more than attempt to give my own explanation of this singular anomaly4 ,it must be remembered that the one great impetus to colonisation in ,australia was the discovery of gold in #ahea4 ,up till that time settlement had been proceeding steadily1 it is true4 ,indeed1 one may go #hj far as to say that the development of the country was progressing1 although slowly1 on safe and natural lines4 ,but the announcement of the finding of gold1 which was continually being corroborated by successive reports1 acted as an electric stimulus throughout the whole civilized world4 ,as a consequence shipload after shipload of new comers flocked to ,australia1 all aflame with the same ardent desire--gold4 ,amongst them were certainly many of the picked men of the earth1 whose spirit will leaven the whole of ,australasia for all time to come4 ,yet even at the present day we still see the influence of this gold period at work1 in the readiness with which men are caught by any plausible mining prospectus4 ,they have only to be told that a company is being formed to extract gold out of road metal1 and they are ready to believe it1 and1 what is more1 prepared to put money into it4 ,but far better than all this eagerness to amass wealth by some fortunate ,,coup1 would be the natural development of the country4 ,agriculture and market-gardening1 vine-growing and wine-making1 the deep-sea fisheries and all the other comparatively neglected opportunities1 only await their expansion into vast sources of wealth4 ,what wonder1 then1 that a continent with so much that is wanting in connection with its food life should be living in a manner distinctly opposed to its climatological necessities6 ,in the case of ,america there is a far different history4 ,settlement began there in a small way at first1 to gradually expand as time went on4 ,there was no sudden event1 with the exception of the short-lived ,californian gold rush of #ahdi-ej1 to set men flocking to its shores in countless legions4 ,no1 in ,america the inland territory has been peopled1 steadily and slowly at first1 but in after years by leaps and bounds1 so that its development has been on a perfectly natural basis4 ,but there must be something even more than this to explain the want of adaptation to climate shown in ,australia1 and it is1 ,i think1 to be found in the following4 ,it must be remembered that ,australia has been peopled chiefly by the ,anglo-,saxon race4 ,in such a stock the traditional tendencies are almost ineradicable1 and hence it is that the descendants of the new comers believe as their fathers1 did before them4 ,it's in the blood4 ,for there can be no doubt but that the ,anglo-,saxon thinks there is only one way of living in every part of the world--no matter whether the climate be tropical1 semi-tropical1 or frigid4 ,those in the old country live in a certain manner1 and all the rest of the globe have every right to follow their example4 ,these two facts that ,australia was peopled in part by the influx which followed the discovery of gold1 and that its inhabitants belong essentially to the ,anglo-,saxon race1 have unquestionably exercised a great influence over our ,australian food-habits4 ,but notwithstanding these powerful underlying factors1 there still remains that most extraordinary circumstance1 to which ,i at first referred1 namely1 that the ,australian people have never realized their semi-tropical environment4 ,in order to assign to this latter the prominence it deserves1 it seems desirable to make special inquiry into the peculiarities of the climate in its different parts4 ,with that object in view1 therefore1 ,i wrote for certain information to the observatories of the four principal ,australian metropolitan centres1 namely1 ,sydney1 ,melbourne1 ,adelaide1 and ,brisbane4 ,as has always been the case1 ,i received the fullest answers to my requests from ,mr4 ,h4,c4 ,russell1 ,government ,astronomer of ,new ,south ,wales2 from ,mr4 ,r4,l4,j4 ,ellery1 ,government ,astronomer of ,victoria2 from ,sir ,charles ,todd1 ,government ,observer of ,south ,australia2 and from ,mr4 ,clement ,l4 ,wragge1 ,government ,meteorologist of ,queensland4 ,and it is with a feeling of considerable indebtedness to these gentlemen that ,i acknowledge their uniform kindness4 ,and yet it is important to remember that the annual temperature1 by itself1 of any given locality may afford no indication whatever of its climatic peculiarities4 ,take for instance the climate of the ,north-,eastern portion of the ,united ,states4 ,that region is characterized by intense heat during the summer1 and extreme cold in the winter4 ,in ,new ,york1 for example1 the mean summer temperature ranges as high as #gj4i degrees1 while the mean winter temperature is as low as #cj4a degrees2 yet the mean temperature of the whole year is #ec4b degrees1 affording no indication of these extremes4 ,the mean annual temperature alone1 therefore1 would be entirely misleading1 as it would give no idea of these alternations of heat and cold4 ,such being the case1 the actual character of any climate will be far better realized by placing in juxtaposition the mean annual temperature1 the mean temperature of the hot1 and the mean temperature of the cooler months4 ,first of all1 then1 ,i purpose showing the mean annual temperature1 and also the mean temperatures for the hot and cooler months1 of the four largest ,australian centres4 ,,table showing the ,mean ,annual ,temperature1 and also the ,mean ,temperatures for the ,hot and ,cooler ,months1 of ,sydney1 ,melbourne1 ,adelaide1 and ,brisbane4 ,capital4 ,mean ,annual ,mean ,temperature ,mean ,temperature ,temeperature for the ,hot ,months for the ,cold ,months ,sydney #fb4i #gj #eh4g ,melbourne #eg4e #fd4i #ec4h ,adelaide #fc4a #gb4d #eh4d ,brisbane #fg4gd #ge4b #fd4c ,much will be gained by a comparison of these temperatures of the ,australian capitals with those of some other cities in different parts of the world4 ,a contrast of this kind will1 in my opinion1 help to a truer understanding of the climate of these capitals1 than any other4 ,accordingly ,i made a successful application to ,mr4 ,h4,c4 ,russell1 for the corresponding temperatures of the following cities3 ,london1 ,edinburgh1 ,dublin2 ,marseilles1 ,naples1 ,messina2 ,new ,york1 ,san ,francisco1 ,new ,orleans2 ,bombay1 ,calcutta1 and ,madras4 ,,table showing the ,mean ,annual ,temperature1 as well as the ,mean ,summer and ,winter ,temperatures1 in twelve different cities4 ,city4 ,mean ,annual ,temp4 ,mean ,summer ,temp4 ,mean ,winter ,temp4 ,,united ,,kingdom ,london #ej4h #fb4i #ci4e ,edinburgh #dg4e #eh #ch ,dublin #ej #fa4a #dj4g 4 4 4 4 ,,southern ,,europe ,marseilles 7,france7 #eh4c #gb4i #de4b ,naples 7,italy7 #fb #gd4d #dg4f ,messina 7,sicily7 #fe4h #gg4b #ee 4 4 4 4 ,,united ,,states ,,of ,,america ,new ,york #ec4b #gj4i #cj4a ,san ,francisco #ef4b #fj #ea4f ,new ,orleans #fi4h #hb #ee4h 4 4 4 4 ,,india ,bombay #gh4h #hb4f #gc4h ,calcutta #gh4d #hc4c #fg4h ,madras #hb #hf4d #gf4f ,it has been said that ,australia is practically ,southern ,europe1 and to a very great extent this is perfectly true4 ,it will be seen1 however1 on reference to the preceding tables1 that the ,australian climate is more equable than that of ,southern ,europe1 for there is not such a marked difference between the hot and the cooler months4 ,in the ,new ,england ,states of ,north ,america1 as exemplified by ,new ,york1 there are intensely hot summers and extremely cold winters--to which fact attention has already been drawn4 ,and lastly1 in ,india1 the thermometer stands at such a height1 winter as well as summer1 that we can only be thankful our lines are cast in more pleasant places4 ,having thus compared the summer and winter temperatures of the ,australian capitals with those of other cities in different parts of the world1 it will be advisable to direct our attention to some details connected with the climate of these capitals1 and of the corresponding colonies generally4 ,commencing with ,sydney we find that the climate is characterized by the absence of very violent changes of temperature1 owing in great measure to its proximity to the ocean1 which in winter is about #aj degrees warmer than the air4 ,its summer climate is marked by the absence of hot winds1 which do not come more than three or four times1 and the are short-lived1 seldom lasting more than five or six hours4 ,for a short time in the midsummer of each year1 ,sydney is visited regularly by moist sea breezes1 which are enervating to many persons4 ,while these continue the temperature seldom rises to #hj degrees1 but there is so much moisture that they are very oppressive4 ,otherwise the climate is one of the most enjoyable in the world4 ,in other parts of ,new ,south ,wales towns may be found varying in mean temperature from #de4h degrees at ,kiandra to #fi4a degrees at ,bourke4 ,speaking generally it is a fact that for the same mean annual temperature in ,new ,south ,wales the range between summer and winter temperature is less than it is in ,europe4 ,the climate of ,melbourne is characterized by a low average humidity1 moderate rainfall1 and moderate winds1 strong gales being of her rare occurrence4 ,the most marked feature is the summer hot wind4 ,a hot wind is always a northerly wind1 and the highest temperature generally occurs a little before the win changes to west or south-west4 ,when this takes place a sudden drop to a comparatively low temperature sometimes follows within a few minutes4 ,these hot winds1 however1 are not frequent1 only averaging eight or nine per annum4 ,these characteristics will apply to all ,victoria except the mountain ranges1 where all the climatic elements vary with the altitude4 ,the climate of ,adelaide is certainly healthy1 and1 with the exception of the extreme heat occasionally experienced in summer1 the weather may be described as enjoyable4 ,it must be remembered1 however1 that these high temperatures are always accompanied by extreme dryness1 the wet bulb thermometer usually reading at such times from #cj to #ce degrees1 or even more1 below the temperature of the air4 ,the heat is1 therefore1 more bearable than if it was combined with the humid atmosphere4 ,when the thermometer stands perhaps at something over #ajj degrees1 the wet bulb thermometer will show #fe degrees1 and it is this which enables persons to bear the heat of the summer and carry on their usual pursuits with less inconvenience and discomfort than is felt in tropical and damp climates1 though the temperature may be #ae or #bj degrees lower1 but nearly saturated with aqueous vapour1 as at ,port ,darwin1 where during the rainy season of the north-west monsoon the thermometer may stand at only #hh degrees1 whilst the wet bulb at the same time indicates #hf degrees4 ,such an atmosphere1 it need hardly be said1 is far more enervating than the hot and dry air of the ,adelaide plains4 ,the summer1 which may be termed warm and dry1 usually extends over1 say1 five months2 and during the remainder of the year the climate is simply perfect4 ,the temperature in mid-winter over the ,adelaide plains rarely1 if ever1 reaches the freezing point1 although there may be sharp frosts1 and on still clear nights1 so frequently experienced1 copious dews4 ,on the ranges1 and on the high lying plains #aej miles north of ,adelaide1 lower temperatures are reached1 indeed in some years there have been falls of snow4 ,the climatic features of ,brisbane are1 as a mean expression1 decidedly semi-tropical4 ,the months from ,october to ,march may be classed as tropic when vegetation makes luxuriant growth1 especially if the rainfall prove abundant4 ,the rest of the year1 from ,april to ,september1 is marked by a dry1 bracing1 continental climate1 during which the westerly wind often proves very cold1 bleaching1 and searching accompanied by great dryness accumulated during the passage of this current from southern-central ,australia4 ,many settlers affirm that they feel the peculiar searching character of the dry cold westerlies more keenly than the more honest frost of the old country4 ,yet vigorous constitutions thoroughly enjoy the bracing nature of the westerly weather of winter4 ,hard ground frosts not unfrequently occur in the ,darling ,downs and ,maranoa districts1 especially during ,may1 ,june1 and ,july1 in connection with the westerly type of climate2 and1 moreover1 ice has at times been observed in the water-jugs of bedrooms1 c4 ,as before intimated1 the westerly winds are marked by great dryness1 so that 7saturation #ajj7 a percentage of relative humidity below #cc per cent4 may occur during the prevalence of such phenomena1 not only in ,brisbane1 but especially in the more western districts above mentioned4 ,such conditions are characterized by great diathermancy of atmosphere1 and hence are frequently followed by days of considerable heat4 ,even in the tropics1 in inland districts1 ground frosts are known to have occurred owing to this extreme diathermancy of the atmosphere far from the coast1 and the consequent attendant factor of active terrestrial radiation4 ,in coast districts1 or that fringe of country bordering the ocean north from ,rockhampton1 frost is of very rare occurrence1 and the prevailing winds are between south-east and east-north-east1 with a rainfall far more abundant than that obtaining in other parts of ,queensland4 ,the climate of the country surrounding the southern end of the ,gulf of ,carpentaria is very hot and trying from ,november to ,march1 but genial thenceforward4 ,it is certainly not unhealthy1 and the fevers suffered from in the northern and gulf districts of ,queensland are largely brought on by reckless or needless exposure4 ,in addition to the foregoing1 which has been obtained from head-quarters1 certain questions were submitted by me as to the climatology of the different colonies4 ,as it will be seen1 these interrogations are somewhat extensive in their scope1 and supply knowledge upon points1 which is not ordinarily met with in my descriptions of ,australian climate4 ,in drafting them everything which had a bearing on health was included as far as possible1 and consequently in a work of this kind they unquestionably deserve a prominent place4 ,in arranging them ,i purpose placing the different replies after each question in the following order1 namely1 ,new ,south ,wales1 ,victoria1 ,south ,australia1 and ,queensland4 ,and in the different answers it should be borne in mind that ,mr4 ,h4,c4 ,russell is responsible for ,new ,south ,wales2 ,mr4 ,r4,l4,j4 ,ellery for ,victoria2 ,sir ,charles ,todd for ,south ,australia2 and ,mr4 ,clement ,l4 ,wragge for ,queensland4 ,,is ,,it ,,not ,a ,,fact ,,that ,,the ,,temperature ,,and ,,barometric ,,pressure ,,are ,,exposed ,,to ,,sudden ,,and ,,marked ,,changes8 ,,have ,,you ,,known ,,the ,,temperature ,,to ,,fall1 ,,say1 ,,as ,,much ,,as #bb ,,degrees ,,in #ae ,,minutes8 ,new ,south ,wales4--,the temperature sometimes changes rapidly in the summer1 coming with a change from a hot wind to a cold southerly1 although the instances are rare4 ,once in #cj years ,i have known such a change to amount to #bj degrees in #ae minutes4 ,under ordinary circumstances the change in temperature from hot to cold wind takes several hours to amount to #bj degrees4 ,the fluctuations of barometric pressure are moderate1 seldom amounting to half an inch in a day1 or an inch in a week4 ,in ,england1 on the other hand1 the pressure sometimes varies quickly to the extent of two inches4 ,victoria4--,yes2 the temperature much more so than the barometric pressure2 it has fallen from a high temperature to #bj and even #cj degrees sometimes in as many minutes1 when a hot north wind has suddenly changed to a cold southerly one4 ,but such sudden and great changes occur very seldom1 and then only in the hot summer months1 and are known as the change4 ,on several occasions in the last #cj years it has fallen from #aje degrees in the shade to #gj degrees and #fe degrees in the shade in less than an hour4 ,south ,australia4--,yes1 in the summer2 but1 especially as regards temperature1 rarely in the winter4 ,one notable example occurred on ,february #ith1 #ahhg1 when during a heavy thunder-storm the temperature fell #be degrees in #aj or #ae minutes1 followed by a rising temperature4 ,in other instances the fall of temperature has been almost equally rapid4 ,from this it will be seen that we are subject to large and quick falls of temperature following extreme heat4 ,the approach of hot weather is usually gradual1 and the fall abrupt4 ,the barometer has been known to show a rise of #f_/aj of an inch in #bd hours2 this1 however1 is exceptional4 ,queensland4--,there is no record of a fall of as much as #bb degrees in #ae minutes4 ,but1 on the other hand1 a rise of #cj degrees in three hours is a common feature over the ,darling ,downs after sunrise4 ,owing to the diathermancy of the atmosphere already referred to1 it is a fact1 nevertheless1 that in the continental or inland districts of ,southern ,queensland the temperature in winter is subject to sudden and marked changes4 ,barometric pressure1 owing to the comparatively low latitude1 is not exposed to sudden and marked changes1 except during hurricane conditions1 which usually affect the central coast-line in ,february and ,march4 ,,as ,a ,,corollary ,,to ,,the ,,preceding1 ,,would ,,you ,,say ,,that ,,the ,,climate ,,is ,,marked ,,by ,,great ,,variability8 ,new ,south ,wales4--,no2 just the opposite4 ,indeed1 as regards ,sydney itself4 there are few cities in which so much uniformity of temperature and slow changes1 are to be found4 ,the cause of any great change is the hot wind1 and as that seldom comes more than three or four times in the year1 great changes are infrequent4 ,the mean diurnal range in ,sydney is #aa #a_/b degrees1 and taking a series of years it is very unusual for the range on any day to reach #be degrees4 ,victoria4--,no2 because these are exceptional phenomena4 ,in the late ,spring and during early summer the climate may be said to be occasionally subject to sharp and sudden changes1 which give it the character of variability4 ,but the deviations from mean temperature1 except for short periods1 are not remarkable4 ,south ,australia4--,yes1 in summer2 but not in winter4 ,queensland4--,certainly not2 with the exception of the wide diurnal range of temperature in winter in the southern continental districts1 as at ,cambooya and ,thargomindah4 ,the changes are1 according to my knowledge1 far more sudden and marked in the southern colonies 7as during a shift from ,n4,e4 by ,w41 to ,s4,w4 for instance1 at ,melbourne1 and especially at ,adelaide7 than in ,queensland and its coastal districts4 ,,with ,,regard ,,to ,,sustained1 ,,prolonged1 ,,or ,,continued ,,high ,,temperatures ,,during ,,the ,,summer ,,months1 ,,for ,,how ,,many ,,days ,,have ,,you ,,known ,,the ,,temperature ,,remain ,,continuously ,,at ,a ,,high ,,level8 ,,this ,,is ,a ,,very ,,important ,,question1 ,,as ,,it ,,concerns ,,infantile ,,mortality ,,in ,,no ,,small ,,degree2 ,i ,,shall ,,be ,,grateful ,,for ,,your ,,experience8 ,new ,south ,wales4--,much depends upon what temperature is deemed a high level4 ,if we assume that #ij degrees and upwards is a high level1 then such periods are very rare in ,sydney2 in fact during the past #bd years there have only been three4 ,in #ahfh there were three consecutive hot days of which the mean temperature was #ia4h degrees2 in #ahgj a period of four days with a mean temperature of #ia4c degrees2 and in #ahgd a period of four days with a mean temperature of #ij4b degrees4 ,since then1 although sometimes near it1 the temperature has never been for three days over #ij degrees4 ,taking a lower level1 we have one period of nine days in #ahgj1 the longest on record1 during which the mean temperature was #hb4f degrees4 ,it must1 however1 be distinctly understood that what is here taken is not the mean temperature of each #bd hours1 but the highest temperature reached during the day1 and which would not as a rule last more than three or four hours1 if so much4 ,if the mean temperature of the day were taken these temperatures1 as given1 would have to be reduced at least #aj per cent4 ,victoria4--,it is very unusual to have a hot period lasting more than three days2 when it does happen it is generally in ,february or ,march4 ,in the majority of cases high temperatures 7over #ij degrees7 do not last more than one or two days4 ,the exceptions generally occur in ,february or ,march1 and have sometimes extended to four or five days hot weather1 with a temperature of over #hj degrees with a maximum of about #ij degrees1 has on a few occasions during the last #cj years extended from five to ten days2 and in #ahij1 a memorable instance1 to #ab days 7the only case for #cg years74 ,south ,australia4--,the longest stretch of continuous heat noted was in ,january and ,february #aheg4 ,on ,january #bhth1 #bith1 and #cjth1 the temperature exceeded #ajj degrees1 and during the whole of ,february it was over #ij degrees on #be days1 and above #ajj degrees on #ab days1 the mean being #ajg degrees4 ,in ,january #aheh there were #aj consecutive days over #ij degrees1 of which eight consecutive days were over #ajj degrees4 ,in ,january #ahfj there were in the beginning of the month seven consecutive days1 above #ajj degrees 7maximum #ajg4e degrees74 ,in the middle of the same month1 seven days were over #ij degrees1 of which five exceeded #ajj degrees1 two days reaching #aac4g degrees4 ,these are1 however1 exceptions to our usual experience4 ,although there are several other instances of great heat1 yet the foregoing will suffice to show what we occasionally suffer without much harm being done4 ,queensland4--,during the period ,february #agth to ,february #bcrd1 #ahia1 the shade temperature at ,townsville ranged between #ha degrees and #fb degrees1 but at ,cairns a range between #hb degrees and #gj degrees is of frequent occurrence1 within at least fortnightly periods4 ,,any ,,information ,,with ,,regard ,,to ,,humidity ,,of ,,the ,,atmosphere ,,also1 ,,will ,,be ,,of ,,great ,,value4 ,,all ,,physicians ,,are ,,of ,,opinion ,,that ,a ,,high ,,temperature1 ,,combined ,,with ,,moisture1 ,,is ,,very ,,irritating ,,to ,,the ,,lungs ,,of ,,those ,,affected ,,with ,,pulmonary ,,disease4 ,before setting forth the different answers in response to this1 it will be desirable to refer briefly to the term humidity4 ,the humidity of the atmosphere is defined as the degree of its approach to saturation4 ,air completely saturated is represented by #ajj1 and that absolutely free of vapour by #j4 ,as a matter of fact1 however1 the latter never occurs2 even in the driest regions of ,arabia a humidity of #aj per cent4 is almost unknown4 ,for its estimation the ,wet and ,dry ,bulb thermometers are employed4 ,these consist of two ordinary thermometers4 ,one has its bulb exposed so as to register the temperature of the air4 ,the bulb of the other is covered with muslin2 this latter material being kept wet through its connection with a cotton wick dipping into a vessel of water4 ,the water ascends from this vessel by capillary attraction1 spreads over the muslin1 and evaporates quickly or slowly1 according to the dryness or moistness of the atmosphere4 ,thus when the air is driest the difference between the two thermometers will be greatest1 and1 on the contrary1 when it is completely saturated with moisture the two readings will be almost identical4 ,new ,south ,wales4--,a considerable part of the colony1 forming the western plains1 is subject to great heat1 caused1 no doubt1 by the sun's great power on treeless plains1 and the almost total absence of cooling winds2 yet1 although in summer the temperature here frequently rises over #ajj degrees1 and sometimes up to #abj degrees1 owing to the cold at night and in winter the mean temperatures are not greater than those of corresponding latitudes in the northern hemisphere4 ,this region of the colony is remarkably dry1 and stock of all kinds thrive well and are very free from disease4 ,at ,bourke1 the driest place in the colony1 the humidity for a long series of years is--in the spring #ea degrees1 in the summer #di degrees1 in the autumn #fa degrees1 and in the winter #gd degrees4 ,at ,sydney the humidity in the ,spring is #fi degrees1 in the summer #gj degrees1 in the autumn #gi degrees1 and in the winter #gi degrees4 ,victoria4--,the humidity of the air of ,melbourne is low1 the average being #ga per cent4 ,in the summer it falls to #fe1 and on hot days is generally very low4 ,the characteristic of our hot weather is that it is usually extremely dry2 the exceptions are very few1 and occur in the late ,spring and early autumn during thundery1 muggy weather4 ,on the hottest days1 with north winds1 the dryness makes the heat much more endurable1 and the humidity frequently falls to between #cj and #dj per cent4 ,south ,australia4--,attention has already been drawn to the fact that the hot1 dry air met with on the ,adelaide plains is far more endurable than a lower temperature in which the atmosphere is surcharged with aqueous vapour4 ,a damp atmosphere is a rare thing in ,south ,australia during the summer1 though in ,march there are at times some warm and humid days4 ,in the winter the air for the most part is dry1 although the nights are often damp4 ,the ,mount ,lofty ,ranges1 close to ,adelaide1 afford a cool retreat2 they have a very large rainfall1 in some years over #ej inches4 ,the climate at ,mount ,gambier1 in the south-eastern part of the colony1 is cooler and damper2 it has also a much heavier rainfall than the ,adelaide plains4 ,,of ,,what ,,duration ,,are ,,the ,,different ,,seasons1 ,,and ,,to ,,what ,,months ,,would ,,you ,,apportion ,,each ,,season8 ,new ,south ,wales and ,victoria4--,spring--,september1 ,october1 ,november2 ,summer--,december1 ,january1 ,february2 ,autumn--,march1 ,april1 ,may2 ,winter--,june1 ,july1 ,august4 ,south ,australia4--,spring--,september1 ,october2 ,summer comprises the five months from ,november to ,march inclusive2 ,autumn--,april1 ,may2 ,winter--,june1 ,july1 ,august4 ,practically1 in ,south ,australia the year may be divided into two seasons1 namely1 ,spring1 the seven months from ,april to ,october inclusive2 and ,summer1 the five months from ,november to ,march inclusive4 ,queensland4--,with regard to ,southern ,queensland1 the seasons may be provisionally apportioned as follows3 ,spring--,august1 ,september1 ,october2 ,summer--,november1 ,december1 ,january1 ,february1 ,autumn-- ,march1 ,april1 ,may2 ,winter--,june1 ,july4 ,,what ,,are ,,the ,,prevailing ,,winds1 ,,and ,,what ,,particular ,,role ,,do ,,the ,,hot ,,winds ,,play8 ,new ,south ,wales4--,a general statement is not sufficient1 for the winds vary much at different places2 but taking the colony as a whole1 its prevailing winds come from some point between north-west and south-west1 and hence the dry climate4 ,in ,sydney no less than #ci4f per cent4 of the wind comes from this quarter4 ,the winds known as southerly bursters are generally to be expected from ,november to the end of ,february2 they are always attended with strong electrical excitement1 a stream of sparks being sometimes produced for an hour at the electrometer4 ,the approach of the true burster is indicated by a peculiar roll of clouds1 which1 when once seen1 cannot be mistaken4 ,it is just above the ,south horizon1 and extends on either side of it #ae degrees or #bj degrees1 and looks as if a thin sheet of cloud were being rolled up like a scroll by the advancing wind4 ,the change of wind is sometimes very sudden2 it may be fresh ,n4,e4 and in ten minutes a gale from ,s4 ,hence vessels not on the look-out are sometimes caught unprepared1 and suffer accordingly4 ,when a southerly wind commences anywhere south of ,sydney it is at once telegraphed to its principal coast towns1 and a signal put up indicating its approach4 ,as to the hot winds1 they are so insignificant in number that it cannot be said they play any particular ,,role4 ,their effect is to raise the temperature1 because they flow from the heated interior of ,australia2 but they do not last long4 and for the majority of people are dry1 healthy winds4 ,indeed1 they are by no means so oppressive as the warm north-east wind1 so charged with moisture1 which comes in the summer4 ,victoria4--,in summer the ,n4 winds blow to the extent of #h per cent41 the ,s4,w4 winds #bd4a per cent41 and the ,s4 winds #bja per cent4 ,northerly1 or warm-quarter winds1 in summer are #bj per cent41 and southerly1 or cool-quarter winds1 #fd per cent4 ,the northerly winds in winter1 however1 are bleak and cold1 like easterly winds in ,england4 ,the particular ,,role played by the hot wind is to precede a cyclonic movement1 and is always in front of a low pressure area or ,v-shaped depression4 ,it is frequently followed by thunderstorms and rain of short duration4 ,it dries the surface and raises dust storms when strong4 ,so far as its effects on the people are concerned1 it does not appear to hinder the ordinary occupations of life4 ,some invalids are better during its continuance1 some worse2 but all weakly people feel some depression after the change comes4 ,the aged are generally better in hot winds1 unless they suffer from disease4 ,south ,australia4--,as far as the southern regions of the colony are concerned1 we may say1 speaking generally1 that light winds and calms are a very distinctive characteristic4 ,the prevailing wind in the summer is the ,s4,e41 varied by sea-breezes during the day4 ,in the winter there are mostly dry1 cold ,n4,e4 winds1 broken at intervals by westerly and ,s4,w4 gales of moderate strength1 squalls1 and rain4 ,the best and heaviest rainfalls are those which set in with the surface winds at ,n4,e41 the rain increasing in intensity as the wind veers to ,n4,w41 and breaking up into showers and squalls as it veers to ,s4,w4 ,in the interior1 north of1 say1 latitude #cj degrees to about #ah degreess41 the prevailing wind all the year is the ,s4,e4 ,north of latitude #ah degrees to the north coast the country is well within the influence of the north-nest monsoon during the summer months1 with frequent thunderstorms and heavy rains2 and during1 the winter dry ,s4,e4 winds prevail4 ,queensland4--,eastern ,queensland 7or rather the ,pacific ,slope7 is very seldom troubled with hot winds4 ,the hot winds of continental ,queensland are always very dry1 and are usually accompanied by dust storms4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,the ,,alphabetical ,,pentagon ,,of ,,health ,,for ,,australia4 ,a few introductory remarks on this subject will serve a useful purpose4 ,it will be seen that ,i have referred to the alphabetical pentagon of health--which is purely a provisional arrangement of my own4 ,it consists of five headings1 which fall naturally into alphabetical order4 ,they are best considered1 therefore1 in the following way1 namely3 99 7a7 ,ablution--the ,skin and the ,bath4 99 99 7b7 ,bedroom ,ventilation4 99 99 7c7 ,clothing4 99 99 7d7 ,diet4 99 99 7e7 ,exercise4 99 ,this is a convenient method of remembering the five great fundamental principles concerned in the preservation of health4 ,it will serve1 moreover1 as a means of impressing them upon the memory1 superior to any other with which ,i am acquainted4 ,this very number five1 indeed1 has a more than ordinary significance belonging to itself4 ,it has been termed a mystical number4 ,five1 says ,pythagoras1 has peculiar force in expiations4 ,it is everything4 ,it stops the power of poisons and is redoubted by evil spirits4 ,according to the ,pythagorean school of philosophy1 the world is a piece of harmony and man the full chord4 ,the major chord consists of a fundamental or tonic1 its major third and its just fifth4 ,the eighth note1 or complement of the octave1 is the diapason of man4 ,these are of course very highly imaginative speculations4 ,it is interesting to remember1 however1 that the system of astronomy first taught by ,pythagoras was afterwards developed into the solar system by ,copernicus1 and is now received as the ,copernican system4 ,but1 turning from grave to gay1 we find that five wits have been described1 viz41 common sense1 imagination1 fantasy1 estimation1 and memory4 ,of these1 common sense passes judgment on all things2 imagination brings the mind to realise what comes before it2 fantasy stimulates the mind to act2 estimation has to do with all that pertains to time1 space1 locality1 etc42 and memory is the warder of the brain4 ,then again1 have we not also the five senses of seeing1 hearing1 feeling1 smelling1 and tasting8 ,have we not likewise five fingers and five toes on either hand and foot8 ,moreover1 is not fives an ancient and hollowed game1 still popular wherever the ,english language is spoken1 and is not its name derived from its being played with the bunch of ,,fives1 namely the hand8 ,and further1 there must be numbers of ,australians who know well what five-corners are4 ,in addition to the foregoing1 the number five has an important historical and legal association in connection with the ,code ,napoleon4 ,prior to ,napoleon's time1 different ways and customs prevailed in different parts of ,france1 and altogether legal matters were in a chaotic state4 ,it was greatly to his credit1 therefore that he recognised the necessity for the entire alteration and remodelling of the whole system4 ,but what was more striking than the recognition of the existing1 defects was the speediness with which they were rectified1 for the ,,code ,,napoleon was devised and actually in operation between #ahjd and #ahaj4 ,it consisted of ,,five parts1 namely the ,code ,civil1 dealing with the main body of the private law2 the ,code de ,procedure ,civile2 the ,code de ,commerce1 dealing with the laws relating to commercial affairs2 the ,code d',instruction ,criminelle 2 and finally1 the ,code ,penal4 ,it is recorded that ,napoleon was prouder of this than of his victories4 ,i shall go down to posterity1 he said1 with my ,code in my hand4 ,the best proof of its excellence is that to-day it remains in force as the law of ,france 7though it has been re-christened the ,code ,civil under the ,republic71 and that it has been the model for many ,continental ,codes1 notably ,belgium1 ,italy1 and ,greece4 ,but1 leaving1 these references to the many associations attached to the number five1 it must not be supposed that my desire is to make people unnecessarily timorous about themselves on the score of health4 ,this is certainly not my intention1 for such a frame of mind would defeat the very object ,i have in view4 ,yet there still remains the fact that a little rational attention is indispensable if the vigour of the body is to be maintained at its best4 ,there is a very great difference between carefulness carried to extremes in this respect1 on the one head1 and a heedlessness and total disregard of personal health1 on the other4 ,the golden mean between these two is the proper knowledge of what is required for the preservation of health1 and so much conformity thereto as will give the best results4 ,and yet it must be remembered that no cast-iron code can be laid down which would be applicable to one and all4 ,no2 idiosyncrasy1 that personal peculiarity which makes each individual different from every one else1 is too potent a factor to be ignored4 ,in matters of this kind1 each one1 to a certain extent1 is a law unto himself1 and1 consequently1 what agrees and what disagrees is only discoverable by the individual concerned4 ,in what follows1 therefore1 ,i have endeavoured to lay down rules for guidance which will be beneficial to by far the greatest number2 although this element of the ,,ego must never be forgotten4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,ablution--,,the ,,skin ,,and ,,the ,,bath4 ,it has been estimated that the external skin of an ordinary adult is equal to an area of about twelve square feet1 and that in a tall man it may be as much as eighteen square feet4 ,there is a considerable difference between twelve square feet and twelve feet square1 and it is well to mention the fact in order that there may be no confusion4 ,from this large surface alone1 therefore1 it is quite easy to see that the skin requires to have some attention paid to it4 ,but it is really far more important than even its extensive surface would be likely to indicate1 for it fulfils no less than seven different duties4 ,in the first place it serves as an external covering to the body1 and1 as we shall see also1 the internal skin acts as a support to the internal organs4 ,secondly1 it is endowed with an extensive system of nerves1 which give rise to the sensations of touch1 of temperature1 of pressure1 and of pain4 ,in this way we can tell whether a substance is rough or smooth1 and whether it is hot or cold2 we recognise1 moreover1 the difference between a gentle pressure of the hand and one so forcible as to cause pain4 ,thirdly1 the skin1 as we shall find farther on1 contains thousands of small tubes for the purposes of perspiration1 and besides this1 there are other tubes secreting1 an oily substance4 ,fourthly1 the skin plays an important part in regulating the temperature of the body4 ,thus in a warm atmosphere the skin becomes reddened and moist1 and much heat is lost2 on the other hand1 when the air is colder the skin becomes pale1 cool1 and dry1 thus conserving the body heat4 ,fifthly1 the respiratory action of the skin must not be forgotten1 although it is nothing like so great as that of the lungs4 ,nevertheless quite an appreciable amount of oxygen is absorbed through the skin1 and beyond all question carbonic acid is exhaled from it4 ,sixthly1 it is an absorbent2 that is to say1 the skin is capable of absorbing into the body certain substances applied to it4 ,in this way remedies are often introduced into the system by what is known as inunction4 ,and lastly1 the skin is a great emunctory1 and carries off waste matters from the body4 ,accordingly it acts as a purifier of the blood1 in which it assists the kidneys1 intestines1 and the lungs4 ,and more than this1 it often happens that the turning point in any disease is announced by a sudden1 profuse1 and markedly offensive perspiration1 as if a considerable amount of deleterious and noxious matter has suddenly expelled from the system4 ,from the foregoing it is evident that the skin has many varied and important duties to perform4 ,as we might expect1 moreover1 an organ with such functions is of complicated structure4 ,its component parts1 therefore1 deserve to have some little attention paid to them1 since the importance of the skin from a health point of view will then be all the more appreciated4 ,the skin is most conveniently considered under three divisions--the skin itself2 the glands1 producing perspiration1 oil1 and hair1 which are found within it2 and the appendages belonging to it1 the hair and the nails4 ,the skin itself may be described as the soft and elastic tissue which invests the whole of the surface of the body1 and consists of two layers1 the outer or scarf skin1 and the deeper or true skin4 ,the interior of the body is likewise lined with a covering1 which is termed mucous membrane1 from the fact that from its surface1 or from certain special glands within it1 or from both1 there is constantly being secreted a thin semi-transparent fluid called mucus4 ,at the various openings of the body1 as the mouth1 the nostrils1 and other parts1 the external and internal skins are continuous with one another4 ,indeed1 at these apertures the mucous membrane1 or internal skin1 takes leave of absence from the world to line the cavities within the body4 ,so that1 as ,professor ,huxley expresses it1 every part of the body might be said to be contained within the walls of a double bag1 formed by the skin which invests the outside of the body1 and the mucous membrane1 its continuation1 which lines the internal cavities4 ,the use of the scarf skin is manifestly to protect the more delicate true skin1 while at the same time it allows the waste products and used-up material to escape from the body4 ,in the substance of the true skin are thousands of minute little bodies called papillae1 which are specially concerned in the sense of touch1 for the vast majority of these papillae contain the end of a small nerve4 ,the numberless fine ridges seen on the palmar surface of the hands and fingers1 and on the soles of the feet1 are really rows of these papillae1 covered of course by the layers of the outer skin4 ,the supply of blood to the skin is also very plenteous1 each of its innumerable papillae being abundantly supplied in this respect4 ,as a proof of the amount of blood circulating within the skin1 and of its extensive nerve supply1 it is only necessary to mention the fact that the finest needle cannot be passed into it without drawing blood and inflicting-pain4 ,in addition to the foregoing the skin also contains a countless number of very fine tubes1 which penetrate through its layers and open on its surfaces by minute openings called pores4 ,there are altogether three different varieties of these tubes distributed throughout the skin1 namely1 those intended for perspiration2 secondly1 those which lead from the oil glands2 and lastly1 those which enclose each hair of the body4 ,the first of these1 which carry away the perspiration from the body1 are very fine1 the end away from the surface being coiled up in such a way as to form a ball or oval-shaped body1 constituting the perspiration gland4 ,the tube itself is also twisted like a corkscrew1 and widens at its mouth4 ,it is estimated that there are between #b1jjj and #c1jjj of these perspiration tubes in every square inch of the skin4 ,now1 as we have already seen1 the external skin of an ordinary adult is equal to an area of about twelve square feet1 and in a tall person it may be as much as eighteen square feet4 ,the number of these tubes1 therefore1 in the whole body will be many hundreds of thousands1 so that it will readily be seen how exceedingly important it is that they should be kept in thorough working order by cleanliness4 ,the two great purposes fulfilled by the perspiration are the removal by its means of worn-out or effete material which is injurious to the system1 and the regulation of the heat of the body by its influence4 ,when it is stopped by any reason1 such as catarrh or disease1 the skin fails in its work1 and the noxious matters1 instead of being expelled from the body1 are thrown back into the system4 ,hence there is a good deal of truth in the belief that a freely acting skin is always a safeguard against disease4 ,the second variety of tubes1 those which furnish an oily-like fluid to the skin1 resemble in--great part those which serve for the office of perspiration4 ,at the extremity away from the surface of the body1 each one has a gland1 the oil gland1 which secretes the oily material4 ,the pores or outlets which open on the skin1 however1 are a good deal larger than the similar orifices of the perspiratory tubes1 but they are not distributed so equally throughout the body4 ,in certain parts of the skin they are especially numerous1 as on the nose1 head1 ears1 and back of the shoulders4 ,the unctuous matter which is secreted by these oil glands is intended to keep the skin moist and pliant1 to prevent the too rapid evaporation of moisture from the surface1 and to act as a lubricant where the folds of the skin are in contact with each other4 ,at times in these oil tubes the contents extend to the opening on its surface2 the part in contact with the air then becomes darkened1 and forms the little black spots so frequently seen on the face of some persons4 ,the white1 greasy matter which is thus contained within the tubes can often be squeezed out with the fingers or a watch key1 and on account of its shape and black end is popularly supposed to be a grub or maggot4 ,the tube into which each hair of the body is inserted differs materially from the two preceding1 in that its function is more restricted4 ,it serves to form a sort of sheath which contains each hair1 and is called the hair follicle4 ,usually one of the last described ducts opens directly on the side of the hair follicle1 and its secretion serves the purpose of keeping the hair pliant4 ,it will be more convenient1 however1 to enter into a fuller description of the hair and hair follicle when be come to speak of the hair1 the nails1 and the teeth4 ,having thus gained some knowledge of the structure of the skin1 and of its delicate formation1 it will be the more readily understood why strict attention to the bath is necessary to produce a healthy frame4 ,there is a continual new growth of scarf skin going on1 and there are likewise the secretions from the perspiration ducts and oil tubes being poured forth4 ,the outer skin which has served its purpose is being incessantly cast off in the--form of whitish looking powder1 but instead of being thrown clear from the body it clings to it and becomes entangled with the perspiration and oily material1 thus forming an impediment to the free action of the skin4 ,if the pores of the latter be obstructed and occluded in this manner1 the impurities which should be removed from the system cannot escape1 and have therefore to be expelled by some other channel4 ,hence the work of removing this impure and deleterious material is thrown upon the liver1 bowels1 or kidneys1 and often results in their disease4 ,in our warm climate1 where the skin acts more freely than it does in colder latitudes1 the use of the bath is certainly indispensable1 if the health of the body is to be maintained at all4 ,the cold bath1 at any rate during the summer months1 should always be there before breakfast1 but in the cooler part of the year the shock may be lessened1 if it be desirable1 by using tepid water instead of cold4 ,and since there is1 as we have seen1 a good deal of oily matter excreted by the skin1 it becomes necessary to use something in addition to water for cleansing purposes1 for the latter is unable to displace the greasy collection by itself4 ,the only thing which will render it easy of removal is soap1 as by its action it softens the oily material and dislodges it from the skin4 ,soap has acquired an evil reputation which it certainly does not deserve1 and if it disagrees it is either due to the fact of its being an inferior article1 or else the skin itself must be at fault4 ,the best soap to use is the white1 not the mottled1 ,castile1 as it is made from pure olive oil4 ,by the proper and judicious use of soap the skin is kept soft and natural1 and the complexion is maintained in the hue of health4 ,even in the matter of washing the face1 there is a right way and a wrong way of doing it4 ,the basin should be moderately filled with water and the face dipped into it1 and then the hands4 ,the latter are to be next well lathered with soap1 and gently rubbed all over the face1 following into the different depressions1 such as the inner corners of the eyes and behind the ears4 ,it is quite a mistake1 however1 to apply the lather to the inside of the ears1 as it seems to favour the formation of wax2 the different depressions and canal of the ears can be very well cleaned by means of the finger tips moistened with water4 ,the face is then to be dipped into the water a second time and thoroughly rinsed1 but it is better to pour away the soapy water for the rinsing4 ,many people apply the soap to the face by means of a sponge or bit of flannel1 and do not wash the soap thoroughly off with fresh water before drying with a towel4 ,the hands unquestionably make the softest and most delicate means of bringing the lather completely into contact with the surface of the skin and1 besides this1 the amount of pressure to be applied can also be regulated to a nicety4 ,the face and neck should always be carefully and thoroughly dried by means of a suitable towel4 ,but for the ears something of a softer material1 such as a clean handkerchief1 is more convenient in following out the various hollows and the canal itself4 ,many houses1 and fairly sized houses too1 are destitute of a bath1 and if there is no room for the erection of one1 or if the means for having it built are not forthcoming1 it becomes necessary to see what cheap and efficient substitute can be made4 ,a sponge bath1 or large tub1 with a bucket of water and a good-sized sponge1 can readily be obtained1 even in the most humble dwelling1 and answers as well as can be wished4 ,when the body is simply sponged over with tepid water it makes one of the mildest baths that can be taken2 but those who are in ordinary health can well lather them selves over with soap and cold water1 and then wash it off with some squeezes of the sponge copiously wetted with the water4 ,next in order to the sponge bath comes the plunge bath1 and with either of them the face should always be washed first1 in the manner previously directed1 so as to prevent a rush of blood to the head4 ,in taking a bath1 whether it be the sponge or the plunge bath1 plenty of water should always be dashed over the front of the chest1 for it makes one hardier and less susceptible to the effects of cold4 ,in fact1 besides acting as a preventive to attacks of common cold1 it really strengthens the lungs1 and renders the body more capable of resisting disease4 ,if in addition a little cold water is habitually sniffed up the nostrils at the time of taking the bath it will have many a cold in the head4 ,after coming out of the bath the towels should always be used to thoroughly dry the body1 and it is certainly better to have two for the purpose4 ,the two towels should be sufficiently large in size1 at least five feet in length and of ample width2 anything smaller is altogether useless4 ,one of them should be of some soft absorbing material so as to thoroughly dry the body1 while the other should be rougher1 to use with friction to the skin4 ,in fact1 this rubbing down with the rougher towel is in some respects the most important part of the bath1 and there should always be enough friction to get the skin into a glow4 ,if there is not this feeling of reaction1 but a decided chilliness1 it is a sure sign that the bath is not agreeing1 and one with tepid water must be substituted1 or else it will have to be stopped altogether for a time4 ,but although there may be a certain proportion of people whom the cold bath does not benefit1 yet ,i am fully convinced that the number is comparatively speaking small4 ,a good many make the excuse that they cannot take it1 while all the time laziness is the real trouble4 ,once the advantages derived from the cold bath are experienced1 all the objections raised vanish into thin air4 ,not only is there that feeling of exhilaration which abides with those who habitually employ it1 but it is to be remembered that its greatest value consists in the immunity which it confers against diseases of the catarrhal type4 ,the effect of the cold bath is to give tone to the whole system1 and to brace up the body4 ,but it does more than this2 by maintaining the functional activity of the skin1 the liability to catch cold is greatly lessened4 ,there are many explanations given of the phenomena which occur in taking cold4 ,they are believed1 however1 to arise from a disturbance of the heat-producing forces of the body4 ,as it has been already pointed out1 the skin is the great temperature-regulator of the body4 ,accordingly this latter all-important duty is best promoted by keeping the functional activity of the skin in full swing4 ,the prevention of catarrh means1 therefore1 a healthy action of the skin1 and for this nothing is so good as the daily cold bath4 ,the praises of the latter are well sung in the following extract3 ,those who desire to pass the short time of life in good health ought often to use cold bathing1 for ,i call scarce express in words how much benefit may be had by cold baths2 for they who use them1 although almost spent with old age1 have a strong and compact pulse and a florid colour in their face1 they are very active and strong1 their appetite and digestion are vigorous1 their senses are perfect and exact1 and1 in one word1 they have all their natural actions well performed4 ,the beneficial effects which follow the daily cold bath have been thus dwelt upon because ,i believe that in ,australia the greatest good to the greatest number would follow its use4 ,at the same time1 however1 it is necessary to remember that there are some persons1 and some even apparently robust persons1 who can never take them4 ,such baths1 also1 are injurious to those who are pale and bloodless1 or those who suffer from a tendency to congestion of the internal organs--excepting under medical advice4 ,and1 in addition1 it must also be remembered that warm baths have claims for consideration from a cleansing point of view1 and a few words upon them in this respect will not be thrown away4 ,now1 the daily use of the cold bath1 together with the assiduous application of soap1 may be sufficient to keep the skin cleansed from impurities4 ,yet as a matter of fact this will the more certainly be ensured by a weekly --or1 better still1 bi-weekly--warm cleansing bath4 ,the best time to take it is before bedtime1 so that there is no risk of taking a chill afterwards4 ,after the body has been well lathered over with soap1 and this has been thoroughly washed off1 the cleansing process may be then considered as completed4 ,it is next recommended that two handsful of common salt should be added to the warm water1 and the body steeped therein for a minute or two4 ,the particles of salt pass into the skin so firmly that they cannot be removed even by the most vigorous rubbing4 ,in this way the functions of the skin are stimulated to a considerable degree2 the process of nutrition throughout the body greatly promoted2 and the liver roused to action4 ,from this it is easy to understand why hot sea-water baths are so beneficial4 ,there is another effect of the warm bath which deserves to be well remembered1 for it has an historical association4 ,it is related of the great ,napoleon1 that after a day's fighting1 instead of indulging in a night's rest1 he would take a warm bath4 ,it was so efficacious that he was enabled to begin his exertions almost immediately4 ,the explanation of this lies in the fact that when the mascles are tired out and the vigour of the body diminished1 the hot bath rouses the circulation and renews the worn-out tissues4 ,in the same way1 after a night's dancing1 twenty minutes or so in a warm bath1 and a couple of hours' sleep1 will be almost as good as a whole night's rest4 ,in addition to the foregoing1 however1 it must not be forgotten that the warm bath1 or to speak more correctly the hot bath1 is a true medicinal agent4 ,it is used in many cases of disease1 especially those in which the skin is inactive4 ,a feverish cold is often nipped in the bud by a hot bath at bedtime2 a free perspiration usually follows1 and thus relief is obtained4 ,in some forms of rheumatism and gout1 too1 the hot bath is of signal benefit4 ,there are many cases of a spasmodic nature1 also1 in which it is of great value4 ,at the same time it must be borne in mind that the hot bath1 when used to an excess1 tends to induce a debilitated condition4 ,,the ,,hair4 ,the loss of hair is so frequent in ,australia1 at least amongst the male population1 that it requires a little consideration2 and apart altogether from this1 the whole subject is one of extreme interest1 so that some reference to the actual structure of the hair and the hair-follicles is called for4 ,the roots of the hair are formed in the hair-follicles1 which may be described as little pear-shaped bags1 formed either in the true skin or in the cellular tissue beneath it4 ,each hair-follicle1 hair-sac1 or hair-pit1 as it is variously termed1 bulges out at its deeper part1 contracting to a long narrow neck as it passes to its skin4 ,near the surface of the latter the follicle widens out again1 and it is from this part that the hair emerges4 ,as it has been previously mentioned1 a duct from one of the oil glands usually opens into each follicle4 ,at its very bottom1 also1 is the papillae or little mound-like elevation4 ,this protrudes into the follicle1 and from it the hair is formed4 ,the blood supply for the hair is very abundant4 ,there is a complete system of blood vessels encircling every one of the follicles1 and besides this each papilla has a special distribution of blood to itself4 ,that part of the hair lying within the hair-follicle is called the root4 ,the lower end of the root1 which swells out into a knob1 named the bulb1 is concave in shape underneath1 so as to fit on top of the projecting papilla4 ,the shaft is the long stem of the hair1 while its extreme end is termed the point4 ,by the aid of the microscope it may be seen that the hair itself on the outside is covered by a layer of scales--the cuticle--overlapping one another like the tiles on the roof of a house4 ,beneath the cuticle is the fibrous part1 consisting of many cells closely packed together4 ,in many instances the fibrous part takes up the whole interior1 but in the centre of the coarser hair there is the medulla or pith1 composed of very minute cells4 ,from this it follows that the hair is not a narrow tube1 as is commonly supposed4 ,this mistake has arisen from the fact that1 when viewed transversely1 the colour of the central and outer part of the hair is different4 ,having in this way become acquainted with the actual structure of the hair and of the hair-follicles1 it will be desirable to consider somewhat briefly the management of the former4 ,we have already seen that the skin requires a good deal of attention in order to ensure the perfection of bodily health4 ,and although the hair does not fulfil such an important function1 yet1 on the other hand1 it must not be neglected4 ,even on the score of appearance alone1 it has much claim for attention4 ,many people would be vastly improved in this way were they only to visit their hairdresser more frequently4 ,it is very unsightly1 to say the least of it1 to see the hair straggling all over the back and sides of the neck1 and the beard 7if a beard be worn7 with a wild1 untidy look4 ,besides this1 in our semi-tropical climate1 a little more care in this respect would be certainly conducive to coolness and comfort4 ,but in addition to these considerations1 there is another very cogent reason why the hair should be more often attended to2 and it is the fact that if it be kept of an ordinary length1 somewhat frequent cutting promotes its growth4 ,there is more than one reason given as an explanation of this2 indeed1 there are at least three4 ,in the first place1 the shorter the hair the less it is dragged on in its roots2 secondly1 its roots are prevented from becoming blocked at the mouth of the hair-follicles--and lastly1 the weight of the hair is considerably lessened4 ,from this it will be obvious that it is not the actual cutting of the hair in itself which is so beneficial in invigorating its growth1 but that1 by reason of the cutting1 certain results follow which strengthen it greatly4 ,we have just seen that the accumulations of ,,debris and other material at the roots of the hair are prejudicial to its growth4 ,it must not be inferred from this1 however1 that incessant washing of the scalp1 by removing these collections1 is a good thing4 ,now1 it is advised by some that the hair should be wetted daily at the same time the bath is taken4 ,but as a general rule this is a mistake2 only those who have a superabundance of natural oil can afford to carry out such a practice4 ,with the great majority of people it is absolutely detrimental to the growth of the hair to wash it oftener than once a week4 ,after washing the head1 the hair should be thoroughly dried4 ,many attacks of neuralgia1 especially in the fair sex1 are due to the effect of getting into a draught while the hair is still wet4 ,there are several points to be borne in mind in connection with the growth and preservation of the hair4 ,with many persons the scalp is very tender and will not tolerate vigorous brushing4 ,in such instances the brush should always be a soft one2 indeed1 a hard brush cannot be recommended under any circumstances4 ,the teeth of the comb1 also1 should never be so sharp as to irritate the scalp1 nor should they be set too closely together4 ,a certain amount of brushing is necessary to keep the scalp and hair in healthy action1 but it must never be carried to excess4 ,singeing the hair is greatly believed in by a number of people1 and in some cases it appears to be of benefit4 ,many believe that singeing seals up the cut ends of the hair1 which they affirm bleed when cut4 ,this has no foundation in fact1 however1 for1 as it has already been explained1 the hair is not a tube4 ,a hard1 unyielding covering for the head is not at all suitable2 the lighter and more ventilated the head-gear the better4 ,but1 the truth is1 a sensible and suitable head-covering for ,australian use has yet to be devised4 ,thinning of the hair1 and even actual baldness1 are not unfrequently started by the hard rim of the hat employed4 ,this mechanically interferes with the supply of blood to the scalp1 and thus it is that the crown suffers most in this respect1 since it is the more starved of blood4 ,as ,i have previously shown1 the hair often suffers from want of natural oil4 ,the investigations of ,liebreich have shown that this is closely allied to lanolin1 which is the purified fat of sheep's wool4 ,moreover1 it has been found that this lanolin is the very best substitute for the former4 ,it is1 however1 too sticky to be used alone as a pomade4 ,accordingly1 ,dr4 ,allan ,jamieson1 of ,edinburgh1 a very high authority on diseases of the skin and hair1 advises that it should be mixed with oil of sesame in the following proportions3 ,oil of sesame4444#a drachm4 ,lanolin4444444444#b ounces4 ,this may be conveniently perfumed with a few drops of oil of bergamot1 oil of orange blossom1 or oil of rosemary4 ,for the preservation of the hair1 therefore1 it should be trimmed short2 the scalp kept clean1 but not overwashed2 and the hair1 if naturally dry1 lubricated by the foregoing pomade4 ,these must be supplemented1 also1 by taking care that the head-covering is not too heating1 that the rim of the hat is not too hard1 and that irritation of the scalp by hard brushes and fine combs is strictly avoided4 ,if the thinning of the hair has progressed to a more advanced stage1 other measures will have to be adopted4 ,the most useful application which ,i know of to restore growth is the following4 ,it is a formula given by ,messrs4 ,squire1 the well-known chemists of ,london1 and has had an immense sale extending over many years4 ,cantharidine 7the best7 #a grain4 ,acetic ether #f drachms4 ,these are to be dissolved together2 then add2 ,rectified spirit #c ounces4 ,castor oil #a ounce4 ,as with the pomade1 this is best perfumed by the addition of about #bj or #cj drops of oil of bergamot1 oil of lavender1 oil of orange flower1 or oil of rosemary1 as fancy dictates4 ,the bottle should be kept tightly corked1 and a little of the preparation rubbed well into the hair-roots daily4 ,if it create any irritation after two or three days' use1 it is best to wash the scalp with a little warm water and soap4 ,the pomade which has been recommended may be afterwards employed for two or three days till the irritation has subsided1 when the application may be renewed4 ,a better plan still is1 from the first1 to use the hair restorer on one day1 and the pomade on the next1 alternately4 ,this foregoing application is of course not infallible1 but it will be found to do more good in a greater number of cases than any known preparation4 ,,the ,,nails ,from the fact that the nails are in reality appendages of the skin1 they are naturally entitled to some brief consideration4 ,beneath the nail is the matrix1 that part of the true skin from which the nail is formed4 ,the matrix has not a perfectly smooth surface1 but is arranged in #h scries of parallel ridges with alternating grooves4 ,the nail is of a rosy pink colour1 because it is transparent enough to let the blood1 circulating beneath1 be seen through it4 ,near the root is a little crescentric-shaped white portion called the lunula4 ,the growth of the nail takes place from below4 ,it cannot grow backwards1 since it is confined in a groove4 ,but as the fresh cells form they gradually thrust the whole nail forward1 till at last it requires paring4 ,as a matter of fact1 however1 the nails really require more attention than they usually receive4 ,the finger nails should be trimmed into a bow shape1 and the corners rounded off1 while the skin near the root of the nail1 which tends to grow over the lunula1 should be repressed into position by means of any suitable appliance4 ,on the contrary1 those of the feet should be cut squarish in shape1 with a hollowed-out centre1 so as to prevent the nail from ingrowing4 ,,the ,,teeth ,it is not my purpose to enter fully into all the details concerning the teeth1 but there are one or two matters of great importance connected with them which require a few words4 ,there are many people1 beginning to get on in years1 perhaps1 who have had the misfortune to lose many of their teeth4 ,the first thing that happens is an inability to masticate their food2 and1 before long1 indigestion sets in1 with all the evils attendant on its train4 ,these unfortunates know that they have indigestion2 the pain and discomfort after food tell them that4 ,they do not know1 however1 that all their sufferings arise solely from their want of teeth4 ,they begin to lose flesh1 and get altogether in a bad way4 ,but if they can be induced to apply to a competent and skilful dental surgeon1 they are properly fitted with what they require1 and the consequence is their sufferings almost immediately cease4 ,they begin to enjoy their food1 and before long their whole appearance is transformed into one of health4 ,in the opinion of all dental authorities1 when the natural teeth are lost1 artificial substitutes unquestionably conduce to health and comfort4 ,it is quite deplorable to see what little interest people take in the preservation of their teeth2 even those who should know better are in too many instances quite as neglectful4 ,but the teeth play a very important part in the thorough division of food1 and if this be not ensured the health is bound to suffer4 ,they should be kept scrupulously clean1 therefore1 and the formation of tartar prevented4 ,these two objects are best accomplished by their thorough cleansing with a moderately stiff brush4 ,too soft a brush is insufficient for the purposes of removing the accumulations which collect upon the teeth4 ,a tooth-powder or dentifrice of some kind will also be required4 ,one of the simplest1 and possibly also one of the very best1 is composed of the following3 ,powdered borax #a_/b an ounce4 ,powdered orris root #a ounce4 ,powdered white ,castile soap #a_/d of an ounce4 ,precipitated chalk #c ounces4 ,oil of cloves #b drops4 ,oil of winter green #a_/b an ounce4 ,this leaves nothing to be desired1 and will be found satisfactory in every respect4 ,it is customary to dip the tooth-brush into water1 so as the better to enable it to take up the dentifrice4 ,but it will be found an advantage if1 after dipping the brush into water1 it then be rubbed once or twice over a piece of white ,castile soap4 ,it will by this means pick up a larger amount of the powder4 ,the teeth should be attended to after each meal1 although cleansing them the last thing at night is an important duty1 never on any account to be neglected4 ,it must not be imagined1 however1 that even the foregoing is sufficient4 ,particles of food1 which the brush fails to remove1 collect between the teeth1 and1 if allowed to remain1 ultimately lead on to decay4 ,this is most likely to occur when the teeth are crowded close together in the jaw4 ,but under all circumstances1 whether the teeth be closely set together1 or whether they be more widely apart1 a piece of floss silk should be passed between them daily1 so as to remove any adherent particles1 and at the same time to thoroughly cleanse the sides of the teeth4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,bedroom ,,ventilation ,now1 if all houses were built in accordance with the requirements of modern sanitary ideas1 there would be but little difficulty in grappling with the problem of bedroom ventilation1 for the sleeping apartment would be a well ventilated room1 with all the latest contrivances1 such as ,tobin's ventilators1 for the admission of fresh air4 ,but as the greater number of people have to live in rented dwellings in which the rooms are very small1 it becomes necessary to know what can be done to remedy existing defects4 ,in the first place the bedroom should always be upstairs if possible2 it is decidedly healthier1 and there is a better chance for the supply of fresh air4 ,the very worst room in the house that could be chosen for a sleeping apartment would be one on the basement4 ,then again1 a fireplace in the bedroom is a priceless boon1 and it is almost impossible to rectify such a deficiency4 ,but as too many rooms are built without it1 we are compelled to look to the window for our air supply4 ,it is estimated that nearly one-third of every person's life is devoted to sleep2 that is to say1 about one-third of it is spent in the sleeping apartment4 ,it is only natural1 then1 that this room and its surroundings should merit some special attention4 ,as a matter of fact1 from a health point of view1 it should receive more consideration than all the rest of the house put together1 for during our waking hours2 we are moving about and constantly changing our location2 but during sleep1 when life is in abeyance to a certain extent1 the system has passively to receive and be supported by whatever pure air the bedroom happens to possess4 ,if1 as too often is the case1 that chamber is looked upon as a sort of cupboard1 where1 amongst other things1 there is room for a bed1 so much the worse for any one who has to sleep there4 ,if the sleeper arises in the morning in a dazed and semi-suffocated state and quite unfitted for the day's work before him1 instead of feeling refreshed1 there is no occasion to seek far for the cause4 ,for the mental toiler1 also1 it is equally important that the period devoted to the restoration of brain material and the imbibition of a fresh supply of nerve power for the ensuing day's requirements should be passed under circumstances the most favourable for bestowing them4 ,from this we see that a due amount of sleep1 under favourable circumstances as regards ventilation1 is necessary both for brain and muscle2 and that1 in fact1 unless it be forthcoming1 there will be an inability for either brain worker or muscle user to properly fulfil his duties next day4 ,but in addition to this there is still the fact that we have to do with the semi-tropical climate of ,australia4 ,it will be as well1 therefore1 to make reference to what has been said on the subject as far as ,india is concerned4 ,sir ,joseph ,fayrer1 whose opinion on such matters must always carry respect1 in the course of an address on the preservation of health in that country1 went on to say3 ,it is very important that you have good sleep1 for nothing in the hot weather more refreshes or invigorates you4 ,early rising is the rule in ,india1 and ,i advise you to conform to the usual practice4 ,sir ,james ,ranald ,martin1 another authority on ,indian affairs1 in commenting on the prevention of disease1 also calls attention to the need for extra sleep1 which is always required in hot climates4 ,he points out that by giving the frame a thorough and complete rest from the great stimulus of heat1 both tone and vigour are imparted-- providing for the requirements of the coming day1 as well as repairing those of the preceding4 ,the general truths contained in the foregoing apply equally to ,australia1 and during the hot summer months1 therefore1 it must not be forgotten that an extra allowance of sleep is quite indispensable4 ,in a great many cases the space under the bed is regarded as an admirable receptacle for a collection of boxes1 parcels1 hat-boxes1 old boots1 and other interesting relics1 while they are effectually concealed from view by a species of curtain reaching from the bed to the floor4 ,the drapery which thus hangs down is dignified by the name of a valance1 and though originally intended for the purpose of embellishment and ornamentation1 it is better that decorative art should be more limited in its application1 so as not to interfere with the free circulation of air throughout the room4 ,the sleeping apartment is also considered as being particularly well adapted for the storage of old clothes1 and consequently garments of this description are not hidden away1 nor furtively concealed1 but are triumphantly exposed to gaze in various parts of the room4 ,indeed1 the more obtrusive they are1 the better the purpose of the bedroom is believed to be served4 ,if it could be only understood how these unnecessarily occupy the air space of the room1 and interfere with its ventilation1 this sort of thing would never be tolerated for a moment4 ,and while on the subject of the accumulation of useless articles in a bedroom1 it seems fitting here to devote a few words to another kindred matter1 namely1 the hoarding up throughout the house of what may literally be designated as lumber4 ,it is astonishing what a number of utterly valueless things are allowed to remain in nearly every household1 and it is well remarked that no one ever knows what a collection of rubbish he possesses till he has occasion to remove4 ,there may not be much to be ashamed of in the first load or two of furniture1 but at the latter end there is a strong feeling that a dark night would be more adapted for moving--the darker the better4 ,at least every twelve months there should be a regular clearance of worn-out articles1 and that miscellaneous collection of odds and ends which can be of no earthly value to anybody1 unless he be an antiquary4 ,let us now go on to consider what ill effects result from the breathing of vitiated air4 ,in his work1 ,a ,manual of ,practical ,hygiene1 ,professor ,edmund ,a4 ,parkes has pointed out3 ,when air moderately vitiated by respiration is breathed for any period and continuously1 its effects become complicated with those of other conditions4 ,but allowing the fullest effect to all other agencies1 there is no doubt that the breathing of the vitiated atmosphere of respiration has a most injurious result on the health4 ,the aeration and nutrition of the blood seems to be interfered with1 and the general tone of the system falls below par4 ,of special diseases it appears pretty clear that affections of the lungs are more common4 ,the volume of air inhaled and exhaled by the adult in the twenty-four hours averages #cfj cubic feet1 or #b1jjj gallons1 while the amount we take in the shape of liquid or solid food does not amount probably to more than #e #a_/b pints1 which is equal to only #a-cjjjth part of the volume of air passed through the lungs4 ,from this it will be seen how necessary it is that such a large amount of air should be perfectly fresh and wholesome1 for the lungs act as a pair of immense sponges or absorbers4 ,when the ventilation does not allow of a continuous supply of fresh air it smells close1 and is surcharged with an increased amount of carbonic acid1 while the noxious exhalations from the breath and lungs deposit themselves throughout the room4 ,nor are the ill-effects of impure air confined to man alone1 for it is well known that cows1 horses1 sheep1 and other animals1 when penned up in close quarters1 show an increased death-rate from many diseases4 ,but though it is perfectly plain that badly ventilated sleeping apartments tend greatly to the production of diseases of the lungs1 it is not generally understood by the greater number of persons that diseases of the heart are brought on by similar conditions1 and there is without doubt a great increase of heart diseases at the present time4 ,it is estimated that upwards of #aj1jjj people in ,england alone die yearly from affections of the heart2 yet1 taking into consideration the ceaseless work of that organ 7in the words of the motto upon ,goethe's ring1 ,ohne ,rast--without rest71 it is wonderful that it is not more frequently diseased4 ,it is said that the heart is a small muscular organ weighing only a few ounces1 beating perpetually day and night1 morning and evening1 summer and winter2 and yet often an old man's heart nearly a hundred years of age is as perfect and complete as when he was a young man of twenty 7,haughton74 ,the effect of impure air in its action on the heart is thus spoken of by ,dr4 ,cornelius ,black3 ,i showed the effect of impure air in promoting the degenerative tendency in the structures of the heart1 and especially those of the right side of the heart1 after the age of forty4 ,i was then led to a passing consideration of the baneful influence produced upon the heart by badly-ventilated houses1 schools1 manufactories1 pits1 theatres1 underground railways1 and all places of a similar character4 ,the impure atmosphere of the bedrooms of the poor1 and indeed of many of the middle class1 caused by deficient ventilation1 proves a sharp spur to the degenerative tendency manifested by the heart1 and especially by the right side of the heart1 after the age of forty4 ,i hold that the breathing of impure air is a fruitful source of disease of the right side of the heart occurring after middle age4 ,how many people ignorantly favour its occurrence by confining themselves to closely shut1 non-ventilated1 stuffy1 sitting rooms1 in which the carbonic acid has accumulated to a poisonous degree in the air they respire6 ,how are these evil results to be prevented8 ,the simple answer is1 let the rooms in which you live be effectively ventilated by an incoming current of fresh air1 and so arranged that no draught shall be felt4 ,sanitarians who have devoted a good deal of time and study to the working out of questions relating to the amount of fresh air in bedrooms have decided that each person should1 if possible1 have at least #a1jjj cubic feet of space1 or in other words1 the same amount contained in a room #aj feet long1 #aj feet wide1 and #aj feet high4 ,it is also estimated that the amount of fresh air entering into a room of this size should be #c1jjj cubic feet per hour1 that is1 the air in each room should be completely changed three times every hour4 ,these observations of course apply only to the least amount of air which every sleeper is strictly entitled to4 ,as a matter of fact1 however1 any more than this is simply of distinct advantage as far as health is concerned4 ,the bedroom1 instead of being the smallest room in the house1 as it too often is1 should be really the very largest4 ,now it has been previously stated that foul or vitiated air collects in a sleeping apartment unless there be a continuous circulation of fresh air2 and that the noxious exhalations from the breath and skin constitute the chief sources of air pollution4 ,the practical point to discover is how to have this continuous circulation of fresh air throughout the room without causing a draught4 ,before considering this1 a few words on the position of the bed itself will possibly be appropriate4 ,it is always better to have it standing more in the centre of the room with its head against the wall1 than to have it jammed alongside the latter4 ,and it certainly should have placed north and south if the shape of the room admits of it4 ,the wire-wove mattress is of great advantage both for comfort and for coolness2 and here in ,australia1 during the summer months1 proper mosquito nettings are as necessary as the bed itself4 ,if the bed is provided with a head-piece1 as it should be1 there is no difficulty in fitting on the netting4 ,every bedroom window should be made to open freely1 and what other defects exist--such as the smallness of the apartment1 or the absence of a fireplace--can be remedied to a great extent by means of the window4 ,in many instances the bed is placed so near the latter that when it is open there is a strong draught playing directly on the bed1 and this is an evil which must be avoided4 ,in such case1 to rectify matters1 raise the bottom window a few inches1 and have a piece of board made to fit in under it1 so as to support the sash and fill in the space between it and the sill4 ,the air freely enters the room between the two sashes1 because the top of the lower sash is by this contrivance raised above the lower part of the upper one4 ,another great advantage is that the air is directed upwards to the ceiling by having to come in over the lower sash1 and thus a gentle current of fresh air is constantly being circulated throughout the room without creating any draught4 ,there are other devices to attain the same end1 such as having apertures cut in the glass of the windows1 but they are not so effective1 so inexpensive1 nor so simple as the preceding4 ,in bedrooms there are the long ,french windows leading on to a balcony1 and where such is the case the air current can be regulated to a nicety by having only one of the window-doors open1 and directing the ventilation away from the bed4 ,many people prefer to sleep with the door itself open1 and by having a ,,portiere or certain suspended outside1 privacy can be ensured1 while an upright screen standing at the head of the bed will effectually ward off any cold currents of air4 ,in our summer weather there is but little difficulty experienced in regulating the air supply1 for there is generally a desire to have as much fresh air as possible4 ,far too many people1 however1 look upon the bedroom in the light of an oven1 where they are to be baked during the hours of repose1 and this is the case even during the summer4 ,in the cooler parts of the year they are apt to forget there is just as much necessity for fresh air as in the warm months4 ,soiled or dirty clothes should not on any account be allowed to remain in the sleeping apartments1 as they are a constant source of foulness to the air4 ,all unclean linen ready for the wash had better be kept away from the bedroom in one of those long baskets which stand upright and are furnished with a lid4 ,they are admirably adapted for the purpose1 and may be obtained for a few shillings from any of the institutions for the blind1 where they are made by the inmates4 ,a word of advice1 by the way1 to those about to travel on a long voyage1 is never to forget one of those canvas bags for the soiled clothes3 they are invaluable at sea4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,clothing1 ,,and ,,what ,,to ,,wear4 ,it is worth considering somewhat minutely what are the requisites of perfect clothing1 and what properties our different kinds of wearing apparel possess4 ,without doubt any reflection on the question of what is usually worn and what ought to be worn is not only of considerable interest generally1 but of great moment likewise from a health point of view4 ,it cannot be maintained too strongly that the question of the proper material for a suitable covering for the body takes a footing nearly equal to the very important one of diet itself4 ,now1 there is no form of clothing which on its own account creates heat1 or has the property of bestowing warmth upon the body1 but the difference in it consists in its power of preventing the escape of the body heat4 ,these qualities in the different varieties of wearing apparel will depend to a great extent upon the thickness of the materials1 and also upon the varying power which they possess in detaining air within their meshes4 ,it is this latter property of retaining the air1 which is warmed by contact with the body1 in their interstices1 which constitutes the great difference in the various clothing materials4 ,this is also an explanation of the well-known fact that loose garments are always warmer than tightly fitting ones1 for in the former there is the layer of warm air in contact with the body1 which has no opportunity for existing in the latter4 ,in the same way two or three layers of under-garments will always be warmer than a single one1 equal to their combined thickness1 since there is a separate layer of air between each of the thinner ones4 ,all the differences in the various fabrics are due in chief part to the properties of heat4 ,the ordinary or normal temperature of the human body is between #ih degrees and #ii degrees ,fahrenheit1 while that of the air will vary considerably1 according to the climate and locality4 ,each individual1 therefore1 must be regarded as a material1 though living1 object which is enveloped in a surrounding atmosphere4 ,as such1 heat will conform to certain fixed laws in its relations to the two bodies4 ,it is always a definite fact that when two bodies in contact with each other are of different temperatures1 they tend to become of equal temperature4 ,the warmer will part with its heat to the cooler1 and the latter will in like manner reduce the temperature of the former4 ,by covering1 then1 the surface of the body1 it is prevented from giving its heat directly to the air1 for the clothes intercept it by absorbing the heat themselves4 ,in the second place the clothes prevent a too rapid escape of heat from the body1 and by keeping a layer of warm air in contact with the skin1 they preserve the body heat4 ,again1 the various materials used to clothe the body vary much as to the readiness with which they conduct heat2 accordingly we speak of good and bad conductors of heat4 ,a bad conductor1 such as wool1 will keep the heat of the body from escaping to the sir1 and thus forms warm clothing1 while a good conductor like cotton will lead away the heat quickly and prove cooler4 ,as said before1 the texture of the material--that is1 the size of its meshes--which allows air to pass more or less freely through it1 also exercises a greater effect upon clothing4 ,no healthy clothing is absolutely air-proof1 the access of the air through it being necessary to our health and comfort4 ,thus oil-skin and mackintosh1 which are air-tight as well as water-tight1 make most people feel very uncomfortable4 ,in addition to their texture or permeability to air1 and to their conducting or non-contracting powers1 fabrics also vary according to their hygroscopic qualities4 ,by hygroscopic is meant the power of absorbing moisture2 thus a thin flannel is one of the coolest materials we can have1 for it absorbs perspiration2 while linen1 which is non-hydroscopic1 when moist allows the fluid to evaporate rapidly1 and thus cools the body too quickly1 and therefore dangerously4 ,hence flannel is a most suitable fabric in which to take exercise1 as there is less danger of taking a chill4 ,there are four chief materials to be considered in connection with clothing1 namely--cotton and linen1 which belong to the vegetable kingdom1 and silk and wool1 which are obtained from the animal world4 ,these four1 either in their own form or else in combination with each other1 such as merino1 constitute most of our wearing apparel4 ,cotton is the fine1 soft1 downy material of a hairy nature which is found on the seeds of a certain plant1 the cotton plant1 which belongs to the mallow family4 ,its fibres are flattened in shape1 and are twisted at intervals4 ,the form of the fibres has an important effect in the action of cotton material on the skin4 ,being of a flattened shape1 they have sharp edges1 which in delicate skins are apt to cause irritation4 ,cotton wears well1 it is not absorbent of moisture nearly to the same extent as linen1 nor does it conduct away the heat of the body so quickly as the latter1 hence it is a warmer material than linen4 ,on the other hand1 it does not retain the heat against the body like wool1 and is an appropriate material for dress in hot climates4 ,in merino there is a mixture of about one-fifth to one-half part of wool with cotton4 ,linen1 the other product of the vegetable kingdom1 is obtained from the fibres of the common flax4 ,its fibres1 unlike those of other fabrics1 are distinguished by their roundness and their freedom from stiffness4 ,these properties give to it that peculiar softness which makes it so agreeable to the feel1 and comforting and soothing to the skin4 ,but1 on the other hand1 it has certain characters which are a drawback4 ,as was stated before1 it differs from cotton in that it is cooler1 but unfortunately it absorbs moisture from the body quickly1 and becomes saturated with perspiration4 ,this is removed so quickly by the action of the external air1 causing rapid evaporation1 that there is great danger of a chill4 ,the next material in alphabetical order is silk1 and it is also the first product of the animal world to be considered4 ,as is well known1 it is obtained from the cocoon of the silk-worm4 ,the fibres of this material are round in shape like those of linen1 and they are even softer than the latter4 ,on this account the phrase as soft as silk has passed into a saying4 ,it is softer to the feel than either cotton or linen1 and is a bad conductor of heat1 as it has little tendency to remove the heat from the body4 ,it is therefore a warmer material than either of them2 but1 on the other hand1 from some peculiar action caused by the slightest friction against the skin1 it seems at times to cause irritation1 and draw the blood to the surface4 ,in many instances the flow of blood is #hj severe as to set up an eruption of the skin1 and there is often so much irritation and intolerable itching produced1 that the garment has to be left off4 ,last1 but not least1 of the quartette under consideration comes wool1 and it is just one of those materials whose place it would be almost impossible to fill4 ,it is obtained from the sheep1 and is one of our chief productions in ,australia4 ,unfortunately it is somewhat irritating to some skins1 and many persons will declare that they cannot bear the feeling of anything woollen4 ,another objection may be taken to it on cosmetic grounds1 and it certainly is difficult to make a flannel garment look attractive2 but still1 with a little taste in the way of bordering1 this may be overcome to a great extent4 ,on the other hand1 it has great advantages which none of the foregoing fabrics possess1 and which have been already referred to4 ,having thus minutely and scientifically examined into the properties of the various clothing materials1 it will clearly be seen that the one which possesses the greatest advantages with the least possible disadvantages is wool4 ,hence it is to be chosen in preference to all other fabrics for wearing next the skin1 because it wards off all risk of a chill striking the body4 ,its disadvantages1 as said before1 are mainly two1 the first being that some declare it is impossible to wear it next the skin on account of its causing irritation2 this1 however1 can only apply to new flannel1 since after two or three washings it feels as smooth as the most fastidious skin could desire4 ,the next objection1 that it cannot be made to look attractive or ornamental1 is to a certain extent true2 but if it is simply a question of health ,,versus appearance1 those who would sacrifice the former deserve to suffer4 ,in this matter we may learn a wrinkle from a practical class of men1 namely1 sailors4 ,one will find many of them pin their faith on the virtues of an abdominal flannel bandage1 reaching from the lower part of the chest well down to the hips4 ,it thus covers the loins and abdomen1 and for warding off attacks of lumbago and muscular rheumatism1 and for protecting the kidneys1 it certainly is valuable4 ,a flannel under-garment reaching from the neck well down to the hips should always be worn1 and in summer it may be of a thinner material than in the cooler weather4 ,it is better to have four made1 so that two can be washed at a time4 ,in this way two can be in use every week1 changing them day by day1 so that one is getting thoroughly aired while the other is being worn4 ,the one which is being aired should be turned inside out1 so that the part which has been in contact with the skin becomes thoroughly purified4 ,it must be remembered1 however1 that flannel is very liable to shrink from repeated washings4 ,this may be provided for by taking care that the under-garment1 when first obtained1 is several sizes too large4 ,in fact1 it can hardly be too large at first1 especially in the case of the thicker one for the cooler months1 which shrinks much more proportionately than does the thinner one for the hot season4 ,this shrinking1 however1 can to a great extent be presented by paying attention to the following points3 ,these woollen under-garments should be washed by themselves not with any other clothes1 in only moderately hot water4 ,next1 while they are still damp1 and before becoming dry1 they should be thoroughly stretched upon a table and then well ironed out4 ,with regard to the sleeping apparel1 there is no doubt the modern pyjamas are a great improvement on the old-fashioned bedgown4 ,they are more thoroughly protective to the skin1 and keep the extremities uniformly warm1 which the latter fails to do4 ,they are better made of flannel1 thin in summer and thicker in winter4 ,persons who are in the habit of wearing woollen material next the skin during the day should certainly keep to the same at night1 otherwise the change is too great1 and there is thus great risk of taking a chill4 ,the flannel under-garment which has been worn during the day can then be taken off at night without any danger1 and has the opportunity of being aired4 ,it might hardly seem necessary to refer to this fact1 namely1 that the under-garment which has been worn during the day should be taken off at night4 ,yet ,i can only say that instances in which this particular garment is never taken off at all1 but is worn continuously both night and day1 perhaps for a whole week at a time1 are not altogether so rare as they might be4 ,in conclusion reference may be briefly made to a subject which is probably within the experience of everyone4 ,there ale many people who pride themselves on not requiring any extra clothing during the colder months1 and evidently look upon this fact as a proof that they possess ,spartan powers of endurance1 and that cold is a matter of perfect indifference to them4 ,now1 it may be that a few individuals differ essentially from the rest of humanity1 and do not require any change of clothing all the year round4 ,but the majority of people who profess this disregard to climate certainly appear as if they would be all the better for warmer material1 for their faces look pinched and their hands seem nearly frozen with the cold4 ,but the fact is that even if the want of thicker clothing is not particularly felt during the cold weather1 it is always wiser to wear an extra allowance1 for the heat of summer can be endured better if this principle is carried out4 ,if a common-sense view of the matter is taken1 then it will be readily apparent why it is desirable to wear plenty of warm clothing during the colder months4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,diet ,the larger part of this work is taken up with a consideration of the most suitable diet for those living in ,australia4 ,in this way a greater restriction in the amount of butcher's meat is counselled1 while a more widely extended use of fish1 vegetables1 and salad plants is advocated4 ,and as far as beverages are concerned1 ,australian wine of a low alcoholic strength is recommended as being the most natural beverage for every-day use4 ,but there are a few other matters connected with food1 and drink1 and daily habits which will deserve some little reference1 and accordingly they will be dealt with4 ,these are fruit1 tea1 coffee1 iced drinks1 and the use of tobacco4 ,all these are important enough to merit notice2 indeed1 they are subjects possessing more than usual interest4 ,before proceeding to give attention to these1 however1 it will be most convenient1 at this stage1 to make some remarks upon the vital topic of the first meal of the day4 ,with the great bulk of our population sufficient heed is never given it1 and yet it is of infinite consequence4 ,by far the greater number of people dawdle in bed till the last possible moment1 when all at once they jump into their bath--that is1 if they take a bath--swallow a hasty breakfast1 and make a frantic rush for their steamer1 train1 or tram1 in order to begin their daily work4 ,how very much better than all this bustle1 hurry1 and scuttle an hour's earlier rising would be6 ,it would afford ample time for the bath1 which should be a bath in the truest sense of the term2 it would1 above all1 give a proper opportunity for a leisurely breakfast1 which is in every respect the most important meal of the day2 and lastly1 it would save that wild dash at the last1 which is so fatal to proper digestion and well-being4 ,but it is a sad fact that1 in most cases1 even when there is due time given to it1 the monotony of the ordinary breakfast is almost proverbial4 ,with regard to the average household it is a matter of deep conjecture as to what most people would do if a prohibition were placed upon chops1 steak1 and sausages for breakfast4 ,if such an awful calamity happened1 many the father of a family would have to put up with scanty fare4 ,it is very much to be feared that the inability to conceive of something more original for the morning meal than the eternal trio referred to is a melancholy reproach to the housekeeping capabilities of many4 ,to read an account of a highland breakfast1 in contradistinction to this paucity of comestibles1 is to make one almost pensive4 ,the description of the snowy tablecloth1 the generously loaded table1 the delicious smell of the scones and honey1 the marmalade1 the different cakes1 the fish1 the bacon1 and the toast1 is enough to create a desire to dwell there for a very prolonged period4 ,however1 ,,revenons ,a ,,nos ,,moutons2 this has been adverted to1 not so much with the idea of urging people to copy such an example1 because expense would render it an impossibility1 but to try and awaken a determination to make more variety at the breakfast table4 ,it is to be hoped that some of the recipes at the end of the volume will serve as a means of initiating a reform in this respect4 ,but under all circumstances1 whether brain or muscle be employed by the bread-winner1 a substantial breakfast is of first-rate importance4 ,there is one form of food which it is especially necessary should constitute part of the meal1 and which must be referred to4 ,this is that variety known as the hydro-carbons or fats4 ,the value of fat1 in any of its many forms1 in promoting the health of the body and preventing the onset of wasting diseases is hardly appreciated1 and besides this action it markedly serves to nourish the brain and nervous system4 ,dr4 ,murchison1 the late eminent physician1 was wont to declare that bacon fat or ham fat was worth a guinea an ounce in the treatment of wasting diseases4 ,cod liver oil1 also1 has a wide repute in the treatment of the same class of maladies4 ,indeed1 it is related of an eminent barrister that he used to take a full dose of cod liver oil some time before going to plead an important case1 for he found it better brain food than anything else4 ,in our semi-tropical climate1 however1 a dislike is often taken to butter when it is presented at breakfast in the form of semi-liquid grease4 ,it would require a person with the stomach of an ostrich to digest1 to say nothing of relish1 such an oleaginous compound during our hot months4 ,but if this necessary and all-important article of diet can be presented in an appetising shape1 what a desirable result is achieved ,i ,the mass of the people--,i am not referring to those who are well endowed with worldly gifts--are apt to look upon the ice chest as a luxury which is altogether beyond their means4 ,but1 as ,i have said elsewhere1 ,i am firmly persuaded that if the price of ice were brought down to one-halfpenny per pound1 and if a company were formed to deliver such a small quantity as six pounds per day1 or every second day1 it would be a great boon1 and moreover a wonderfully profitable speculation4 ,a very small and suitable ice chest could be constructed1 to sell at a few shillings1 solely to preserve the butter in a congealed1 and therefore palatable1 state1 for children as well as for adults4 ,the former would take it with great avidity1 and the benefit to health resulting therefrom would be incalculable4 ,even in some of the better-class houses ice is looked upon too much as a luxury1 and not1 as it should be1 a necessity2 indeed1 the money saved from gas during the summer months might well be expended in ice4 ,not only is this fatty breakfast a necessary feature in the diet of everybody1 particularly of the young and growing population1 but it is likewise a most important matter with all brain workers4 ,if the business or professional man can put in a liberal breakfast1 consisting largely of butter1 fat bacon or ham1 he can go on all day with a feeling of energy and buoyancy4 ,it is in this aversion to fatty matter1 in any shape or form1 that the bilious and dyspeptic are so fearfully handicapped4 ,and not only is it necessary for an active mental worker to be supplied with a good proportion of fatty material1 but1 as ,i have just said1 it is essential that his breakfast should be a substantial one1 in which his food is not stinted in any way4 ,as ,dr4 ,milner ,fothergill said3 ,i would always back a good breakfaster1 from a boy to a game cockerel2 a good meal to begin the day is a good foundation4 ,so1 too1 ,mr4 ,christopher ,heath1 the well-known ,london surgeon1 in his advice to house surgeons and other medical officers living in hospitals1 says1 the first symptom of knocking up1_/' is an inability to eat breakfast1 and goes on to point out how important a meal it is1 and that it should be taken deliberately and without undue haste4 ,,fruit ,it is undoubtedly a most fortunate thing for us in ,australia that fruit is so abundant1 and that it is easily within the reach of all4 ,there is something wonderfully attractive about it2 its colouring in particular appeals so to the eye that a good show of well-assorted fruit is always certain to ensure attention4 ,many fruits1 moreover1 have a magnificent fragrance which lends to their agreeable taste4 ,it is somewhat of a pity that fruit is not more ordinarily eaten at meals1 particularly with the breakfast4 ,there is an old proverb that fruit is gold in the morning1 silver at noon1 and lead at night2 and it is undoubtedly a fact that it is especially beneficial when eaten early in the day4 ,in ,france1 fruit is a constant part of every meal1 and there is no question but that such a proceeding is desirable4 ,it was formerly the custom with ,english people at regular dinners to have dessert on the table all through the courses1 but it is now more customary to present it at the termination of the repast1 so that it is quite fresh and not saturated with odours absorbed from the soup1 fish1 etc4 ,the agreeable qualities of fruits may be said to reside in three different factors4 ,first1 there is the proportion of sugar1 gum1 pectin1 etc41 to free acid2 next1 the proportion of soluble to insoluble matters2 and thirdly1 the aroma1 which1 indeed1 is no inconsiderable element therein4 ,this latter quality--the aroma1 fragrance1 or perfume of fruit--is due to the existence of delicate and exquisite ethers4 ,these subtle ethers ,are often accompanied by essential oils1 which may render the aroma more penetrating and continued4 ,those fruits like the peach1 greengage1 and mulberry1 which almost melt in the mouth1 contain a very large amount of soluble substances4 ,some fruits1 like the peach and apricot1 carry but a small amount of sugar as compared with the free acid they contain4 ,yet the free acid is not distinctly perceptible1 because its taste is covered by a larger proportion of gum1 pectin1 and other gelatinous substances4 ,there are other fruits again1 such as the currant and gooseberry1 which are markedly acid1 because there is only a small amount of gum and pectin1 and a relatively larger amount of free acid4 ,with regard to fruit when eaten in its raw state1 the question of ripeness is a most important ones and is always to be considered2 so that whatever views may be entertained as to the dietetic value of ripe fruit1 there is a consensus of opinion on the fact that when unripe it is most injurious4 ,care must be taken1 therefore1 to see that it is perfectly ripe1 and no considerations of economy must be allowed to over-ride the fact4 ,at the same time1 though ripeness is a necessary qualification of wholesomeness1 yet fruit must not be over-ripe1 as changes occur which render it undesirable for the system1 and thus in avoiding ,scylla we may fall into ,charybdis4 ,the skin of fruit should never be eaten1 nor should the stones1 pips1 or seeds be swallowed1 as there is a danger of their accumulating in a small pouch of the bowel known as the vermiform appendix4 ,their lodgment in this little pocket is a constant source of peril1 and would soon set up an inflammation1 which must always be attended with a considerable amount of danger4 ,as to the question of the unripeness or over-ripeness of fruit1 the following remarks by ,dr4 ,f4,w4 ,pavy1 an acknowledged authority on all that relates to food1 and worth recording3--,fruit forms an agreeable and refreshing kind of food1 and1 eaten in moderate quantity1 exerts a favourable influence as an article of diet4 ,it is chiefly of service for the carbo-hydrates1 vegetable acids1 and alkaline salts it contains4 ,it enjoys1 too1 in a high degree1 the power of counteracting the unhealthy state found to be induced by too close a restriction to dried and salted provisions4 ,whilst advantageous when consumed in moderate quantity1 fruit1 on the other hand1 proves injurious if eaten in excess4 ,of a highly succulent nature1 and containing free acids and principles liable to undergo change1 it is apt1 when ingested out of due proportion to other food1 to act as a disturbing element1 and excite derangement of the alimentary canal4 ,this is particularly likely to occur if eaten either in the unripe or over-ripe state2 in the former case1 from the quantity of acid present2 in the latter1 from its strong tendency to ferment and decompose within the digestive tract4 ,the prevalence of stomach and bowel disorders1 noticeable during the height of the fruit season1 affords proof of the inconveniences that the too free use of fruit may give rise to4 ,the different forms of fruit1 and also of vegetables1 owe their great value to the fact that they possess powerful anti-scorbutic properties4 ,it will be best and simplest to define the word anti-scorbutic as good against the scurvy4 ,this latter disease is notably dependent on a want of fresh fruit and vegetables in the dietary1 and consequently is more often observed amongst sailors2 and though accessory conditions1 such as great privations1 bad provisions1 or unhealthy surroundings1 may predispose to it1 yet that which essentially produces it is the deficiency of the former articles from the food4 ,at the present time it is not nearly so frequently seen1 since1 according to the mercantile marine regulations1 subject to legislative enactments passed in #ahfg1 in lieu of vegetables1 one ounce of lime juice1 sweetened with the same quantity of sugar1 must be served out to each man daily4 ,in scurvy there is some great change effected in the blood1 and it is as well to refer briefly to the characters possessed by the latter4 ,the blood as it exists in the body is a red alkaline fluid1 having a saltish taste and possessing quite a noticeable odour4 ,it consists of minute bodies1 the corpuscles1 immersed in a liquid1 the ,,liquor ,,sanguinis4 ,salts also enter into its composition1 and include the chlorides of potash and soda2 the phosphates of lime1 magnesia1-and soda2 the sulphate of potash1 and free soda4 ,of these the salts of soda predominate1 and the chloride--that is1 common salt--is usually in excess of all the others4 ,the uses of these salts in the blood are to supply the different tissues with the salts they respectively require1 to take part in maintaining the proper specific gravity and alkaline character of the blood1 and to prevent any changes going on within it4 ,in scurvy1 as mentioned before1 the blood seems to undergo some great change1 and there are accumulations of it beneath the skin4 ,the gums become spongy1 bleeding on the slightest touch1 and the teeth frequently loosen4 ,blood often flows from the mouth and nose1 or is vomited from the stomach1 or is passed through the bowels4 ,dr4 ,garrod advanced the view that scurvy was dependent on a deficiency of potash in the stem1 and that vegetables which contained potash supplied the want4 ,it is questionable1 however1 whether the disease is due to this fact alone1 since beef tea1 which contains a good deal of potash1 may be given freely to a scorbutic patient1 yet he fails to recover till proper anti-scorbutic diet is supplied4 ,dr4 ,ralfe found by experiments that when acids are injected into the blood1 or an excess of acid salts administered1 the same changes occur in the blood as in scurvy4 ,hence he supposes that the latter disease is caused by a decrease in the alkalinity of the blood1 which results from the absence of fruit and vegetables from the food4 ,now1 although characteristic cases of scurvy are as a rule to be met with chiefly in sailors1 yet there is no doubt that an insufficiency of the preceding in the dietary brings about an unhealthy condition of the system4 ,many typical examples of this are frequently seen in the patients admitted into our hospitals4 ,they have been living1 perhaps1 in isolated districts in the country1 where their sole food was mutton and damper1 with no restriction placed on tea and tobacco4 ,as a rule their skin presents evidences of the need of proper diet1 for it looks unhealthy and is often covered with boils4 ,but apart from these cases1 which so plainly indicate the origin of the poor condition of the blood1 there are many instances in which1 from the want of vegetable food and fruit1 the system becomes greatly deranged4 moreover1 what is known as the blood being out of order is mostly due to an unsuitable diet1 consisting of animal food in excess1 and a corresponding deficiency of the other essentials4 ,the use of fruit1 again1 is especially indicated in persons disposed to the formation of uric acid in excess4 ,when this actually occurs1 the system becomes overloaded with deleterious matter1 and the blood and body fluids are then saturated with a ,,materies ,,morbi4 ,this morbific material is best understood by regarding it as being in an incomplete or half-way stage1 in which form it is injurious4 ,but1 on the other hand1 if it had proceeded to its final change1 the completed product would have been harmless4 ,indeed1 it is as the latter that it mostly leaves the body in ordinary conditions of health4 ,well then1 the retention within the system of this incompletely transformed material gives rise to various symptoms4 ,one of them is a bitter or coppery taste in the mouth1 notably in the early morning4 ,oftentimes1 too1 patients will complain that they do not feel at all refreshed on rising1 even when they have slept fairly well--which does not happen too frequently4 ,there may be also a great tendency to drowsiness1 accompanied by severe pains in the limbs1 coming on about an hour after meals4 ,other symptoms which are commonly met with are great irritability of the temper and lowness of spirits4 ,there is frequently a headache of a peculiar kind4 ,it comes on generally in the morning1 and may last all day1 or even for several days4 ,it is a dull1 heavy pain1 felt most often in the forehead4 ,a curious feature of the affection which sometimes exists is an incontrollable desire to grind the teeth during the waking hours4 ,there are other symptoms1 also1 characteristic of the same malady1 namely1 palpitation of the heart and intermittency of the pulse2 a liability to colds on the chest2 and perhaps repeated attacks of difficulty in breathing4 ,from all this it follows that a more liberal supply of fruit for such individuals would be followed by the most beneficial results and their children might well be taught to follow their example4 ,for it must be remembered that all fruits contain alkaline salts which are good for the blood4 ,these alkaline vegetable salts become changed within the body1 and converted into the carbonate of the alkali1 in which latter form they pass out of the system4 ,but before finally closing this portion it is necessary to say a few words about olives1 from which the famous olive oil is obtained1 and indeed with regard to their virtues nearly a volume might be written4 ,with many people the olive1 like the tomato1 is an acquired taste1 and unfortunately too many fail to overcome their first impressions2 but it is certainly worth acquiring1 even if the process takes a long time and requires much perseverance1 on account of its highly nutritive value4 ,children are often very fond of olives1 and persistent efforts should be made to induce those who do not like them to overcome their aversion4 ,we speak of ,french olives and ,spanish olives2 the former are gathered young1 and are small and hard1 while the latter are allowed to remain till a later period of growth1 when they become softer and more pulpy4 ,the ,french olives are more piquant in flavour than the larger kind4 ,they are also better to eat as a fruit1 though many prefer the ,spanish1 and are sometimes employed to clear the palate before drinking wines4 ,the larger or ,spanish olives are more adapted for cooking1 as in the dish known as beef olives1 and also for salads4 ,there must be no misconception as to the name ,french or ,spanish as applied to olives2 it does not refer to the country from which they are derived1 but simply serves to indicate that they are taken from the tree at a particular time in accordance with the habit observed in the respective countries4 ,the mode of preparing the olives as they reach us is as follows3 ,they have been gathered when green1 and soaked first of all in strong lye--that is1 water saturated with alkaline salt1 obtained by steeping wood ashes in the former4 ,they are next soaked in fresh water to remove the somewhat acrid and bitter taste1 and are then bottled in a solution of salt and water4 ,ordinarily they are presented at table in a dish or other suitable vessel1 with a little of the liquid in which they have been preserved4 ,in conclusion it may be added that olives form an historical dish1 for we are told that the supper of ,milton the poet consisted usually of bread and butter and olives4 ,,tea ,tea1 with which we are all so familiar1 is in reality a number of dried rolled leaves of the tea plant1 ,camellia ,thea1 cultivated chiefly in ,china and the contiguous countries4 ,it is used excessively throughout ,australasia--for has it not been shown that our four million people use more of this beverage than the millions who inhabit ,continental ,europe1 if ,russia be excepted8 ,this fact is much to be deplored1 for when taken in excess it causes severe functional derangement of the digestive organs1 and prejudicially affects the nervous system4 ,the gentler sex are greatly given to extravagant tea-drinking1 exceeding all bounds of moderation in this respect4 ,many of them1 moreover1 live absolutely on nothing else but tea and bread and butter4 ,what wonder1 then1 that they grow pale and bloodless2 that their muscles turn soft and flabby2 that their nervous system becomes shattered2 and that they suffer the agonies of indigestion8 ,their favourite time for a chat and the consumption of tea is at any period between ten o'clock in the morning and three in the afternoon4 ,now1 if there is anything of which ,i am certain1 it is that tea in the middle of the day1 say from ten o'clock to three1 is a deadly destructive fluid4 ,and ,i am equally certain1 too1 that innumerable numbers of young girls employed in business do themselves an irreparable amount of injury by making their mid-day meal consist of nothing else but tea and a little bread and butter4 ,there is no nourishment whatever in such fare1 and it inevitably leads to the bad symptoms already detailed and general unhealthiness1 if not to the onset of graver disease4 ,no1 they require something which is nutritious1 such as a little warm soup of some kind1 a modicum of bread1 and say two different varieties of vegetables to follow4 ,of course this may be extended to include pudding1 stewed fruit1 c41 but the former is ample enough in many respects4 ,this is a very important matter to which the attention of proprietors and managers of large establishments1 factories1 and other places employing many female hands might well be directed4 ,and1 moreover1 if ever there was an opportunity for an active organization to achieve really valuable work1 it would be in seeing that our city girls had something better to eat in the middle of the day than tea and bread and butter4 ,as in every other case1 however1 there is all the difference in the world between the use of anything and its abuse4 ,it is wrong to assume that1 because a great deal of something is injurious1 a small quantity judiciously employed is equally pernicious4 ,and so it is even in the case of tea1 for it is not to be denied that a fragrant cup of tea is very agreeable4 ,as ,dr4 ,vivian ,poore most appropriately remarked in reply to the argument that the lower animals did not require tea1 coffee1 c43 ,we are not lower animals2 we have minds as well as bodies2 and since these substances have the property of enabling us to bear our worries and fatigues1 let us accept them1 make rational use of them1 and be thankful4 ,of course everything hinges upon the correct interpretation of the terms small quantity1 and judiciously employed4 ,it may be said1 however1 that the drinking of large cups of tea is never to be sanctioned under ally circumstances whatever4 ,it should rather be looked upon as a delicate fluid to be imbibed only in very small quantities4 ,it should certainly not be used in the middle of the day1 between those hours which ,i have specified2 nor should it be taken during the evening1 for it almost always disturbs the night's rest4 ,there was a great controversy as to the proper way of making tea in the medical papers not very long ago4 ,it is of course a perennial topic1 and always excites considerable interest4 ,this particular discussion began in this way4 ,a new tea-pot1 called the anti-tannic tea-pot1 appeared on the scene1 and was favoured with a long description by the ,,british ,,medical ,,journal4 ,it was claimed for this special model that it extracted only the theine1 and not the tannin from the tea4 ,now1 as a matter of fact1 it is simply impossible to make tea1 no matter how it is made1 entirely free from tannin4 ,it is quite true that many suppose by infusing the tea for a very brief period only--two or three minutes --the passage of the tannin into the beverage can be prevented1 but1 as ,sir ,william ,roberts has pointed out1 this is quite a delusion4 ,tannin is one of the most soluble substances known1 and melts in hot water just as sugar does4 ,tea made experimentally1 by pouring boiling water on the dry leaves placed on filter paper1 contains tannin4 ,as ,sir ,william remarks1 you can no more have tea without tannin1 than you can have wine without alcohol4 ,nevertheless1 it is a fact that this anti-tannic tea-pot has many excellent points about it1 and is sure to meet with favour4 ,it is really an attempt to make tea by a more certain method than is generally employed2 for ,i think it must be admitted that the present happy-go-lucky style has not much to recommend it4 ,on one occasion the tea will be excellent--and on another either as weak as water1 or with such a sharp acrid taste that it is almost undrinkable4 ,in the latter case the tea has been allowed to soak so long that it has become a decoction instead of an infusion4 ,the consequence of this prolonged action of the hot water on the tea is that it brings out the bitter extractive material of the plant1 and it is this which proves so particularly pernicious4 ,tea at sea is proverbially unpalatable1 and invariably disagrees1 owing chiefly to the fact that it is a boiled decoction of tea leaves and nothing else4 ,,coffee ,coffee is the roasted and ground product of the seeds found within the fruit of a tree1 the ,coffea ,arabica4 ,originally a native of ,abyssinia1 it was transported into ,arabia at the beginning of the fifteenth century4 ,since then it has been widely cultivated in the ,west ,indies1 in ,ceylon1 and in other warm countries4 ,the fruit itself much resembles a small cherry in size and appearance1 and usually contains two small seeds--the coffee beans themselves4 ,the choicest coffee is the mocha or ,arabian coffee1 and the bean is very small4 ,of the ,west ,indian varieties1 the ,jamaica and the ,martinique coffee are the best4 ,the exhilarating and agreeable properties of coffee are dependent in great part upon three active principles which it contains4 ,the first of these is caffeine1 which is almost identical in composition with1 and practically the same as1 the theine present in tea4 ,next there are the volatile oils1 developed by roasting1 from which coffee derives its aroma4 ,indeed1 as far as they are concerned1 there are many who believe that these ethereal oils have more to do with the characteristic properties of coffee than even the caffeine itself4 ,and1 lastly1 there are the acids known as caffeo-tannic and caffeic acids1 which are modified forms of tea tannin4 ,they exist to a far less extent1 however1 than does the tannin in tea4 ,coffee has a decidedly stimulating effect upon the nervous system2 so much so that in ,france it has been called ,,une ,,boisson ,,intellectuelle 7an intellectual beverage71 from its stimulating all the functions of the brain4 ,not so long ago a writer1 ,dr4 ,j4 ,n4 ,lane1 in the ,,british ,,medical ,,journal gave some interesting1 information with respect to coffee and brain work4 ,as the result of his own experience he recommended a cup of strong coffee1 without cream or sugar1 preceded and followed by a glass of hot water every morning before breakfast4 ,the various secretions are thus stimulated1 the nerve force aroused1 no matter how the duties of the preceding day and night may have drawn upon the system4 ,another cup at four in the afternoon is sufficient to sustain the energies for many hours4 ,it is only fair to add1 however1 that the ,,journal went on to remark that in this way some #ej grains of caffeine would be taken each week1 and that very little more might develop injurious symptoms1 so that the power of doing an illimitable amount of work would be obtained under somewhat risky conditions4 ,one of its most remarkable effects is that of relieving the feeling of fatigue or exhaustion1 whether this be produced by brain work or bodily labour4 ,it enables the system also to bear up under an empty stomach and when the supply of food is shortened4 ,in this way it is of signal value to the soldier in the field4 ,professor ,e4,a4 ,parkes1 all admitted authority on these matters1 bears testimony to the fact that in military service it invigorates the system and is almost equally useful against both cold and heat--against cold by reason of its warmth1 and against heat by its action on the skin4 ,it appears1 also1 to do sway with the need for sleep1 probably from its arousing the mental faculties1 and the effect of a strong cup of coffee in inducing wakefulness is well known4 ,coffee has1 moreover1 a distinct action on the heart1 and tends to strengthen it4 ,the ,germans are great believers in its virtues1 and ,vogel1 one of the principal authorities on diseases of children1 recommends it for them1 mixed with cream1 both as a food and as a tonic4 ,in addition to the foregoing1 coffee is also employed by reason of its important medicinal virtues4 ,in malarious countries a cup of hot strong coffee1 in the early morning1 is regarded as a preventive against fever and ague4 ,it is a valuable agent in many cases of heart disease1 particularly when associated with dropsy4 ,in ,bright's disease of the kidneys1 where dropsy is present1 it is likewise given with benefit4 ,strong coffee is also a well-known remedy in asthma1 both in relieving the actual attack and in acting as a restorative after it is over4 ,it frequently gives great relief in many forms of nervous headache1 particularly in that variety known as migraine1 in which the pain is generally limited to one side of the head4 ,and1 lastly1 coffee is a valuable remedy in opium poisoning1 where there is such a tendency to a fatal coma4 ,from the foregoing it must be evident that coffee occupies a very high position as a beverage4 ,all that concerns its preparation1 therefore1 is of undoubted interest4 ,in the first place1 to obtain coffee in perfection it is indispensable that the beans be roasted at home1 and not only should the roasting be done in the house1 but the operation ought really to be performed immediately before the coffee is made1 and the reasons thereof ,i shall give in speaking of the process of roasting4 ,many people do not care sufficiently about the perfection of coffee to go to this trouble1 and are content with having their roasted coffee beans sent to them daily from their grocer4 ,the leading establishments roast their coffee beans daily1 and from them the latter may be obtained and ground in the mill at home4 ,this1 of course1 though not giving the real thing1 is an immense improvement on the hallowed tradition1 so dear to some1 of purchasing their weekly supply of11round coffee at a time and keeping it in a tin or vessel for use as required4 ,but1 as ,i said before1 if perfection is aimed at1 the roasting must be done at home4 ,in the selection of the green beans care should be taxiway to see that they are nearly all of the same size1 for if some are small and others large1 when it comes to roasting it will be found that the small ones are done to a cinder1 while the larger beans are hardly touched4 ,the beans1 too1 should be perfectly dry2 if moist1 they should be dried in a dish by the fire or in the oven before going into the roaster4 ,on the coffee plantations the drying of the bean is considered a most important matter when preparing them for export4 ,in the process of roasting1 a volatile oil which gives to coffee its unique fragrance is developed4 ,it is somewhat curious that no amount of boiling could educe this from the raw bean4 ,this oil is exceedingly volatile1 and begins to disperse and evaporate the very moment it is born4 ,hence1 to obtain the perfection of coffee1 no time should be lost in grinding and making it directly it is roasted4 ,when the fragrant vapour of the roasted bean is first given off1 it is soon followed by a peculiar noise1 caused by the splitting and crackling of the external silvery greenish covering of the raw beans4 ,at this time1 or very shortly afterwards1 the latter are of a yellowish hue1 but before long they change into that desirable lightish brown colour1 when the peculiar volatile coffee oils are at their best4 ,the best mill for grinding the coffee1 and one which may be obtained from any ironmonger1 is that which can be screwed on the edge of the kitchen table or dresser4 ,it has a little contrivance to regulate the size of the grains4 and care must be taken not to grind the coffee too fine2 it should be in minute crumbs rather than in powder4 ,as ,i have already said1 the perfection of coffee is only to be obtained under three conditions4 ,these are1 first1 that the beans should be roasted at home2 that they should be ground without much delay2 and1 thirdly1 made into coffee as soon as possible4 ,many people are1 however1 unable to carry out the first of these three requirements4 ,the next best substitute is to have the roasted coffee beans sent daily to them by their grocer4 ,this is a practice which might be followed more frequently with a great deal of advantage1 for all are able1 at least1 to possess a mill and grind their own coffee at home4 ,the making of the coffee is quite as important as the preceding1 and the number of different models of coffee-makers is almost perplexing4 ,but of them all1 the one which is simplest1 and perhaps most effective1 is the ordinary ,,cafetiers1 or ,french coffee-pot4 ,this has the advantage of costing only a few shillings1 and is readily obtainable from any ironmonger4 ,it consists of an upper compartment in which the coffee is made1 and a lower part--the coffee-pot itself--into which the coffee descends4 ,these two portions are quite separate1 although the upper fits on the lower4 ,the floor--on which the coffee is placed--of the upper part is perforated by a number of minute holes ,there is also a movable strainer about an inch in depth1 which fits on top of the upper part2 and a presser1 consisting of a long rod with a circular plate at its end1 which for convenience passes through the centre of the strainer1 and rests on the perforated floor of the upper part4 ,there are one or two points to be borne in mind in the making of coffee4 ,as a rule ,english-speaking people do not allow enough coffee to each cup4 ,the almost universal fault of coffee1 made elsewhere than on the ,continent1 is its want of strength and flavour4 ,with regard to the admixture of chicory1 this is largely a question of taste1 and the palate must be consulted in the matter4 ,the great majority of people1 however1 cannot do without it1 and it is quite 7when genuine7 a harmless addition4 ,madame ,lebour-,fawssett recommends the following proportions3 ,for making ,,cafe ,,noir1 or coffee after meals1 there should be six teaspoonsful of coffee1 heaped up1 and a very small teaspoonful of chicory1 or none at all1 for one pint of water4 ,the chicory must be left out altogether1 and another teaspoonful of coffee substituted for those who object to chicory with their ,,cafe ,,noir4 ,for morning coffee or cafe au lait there should be ten or twelve teaspoonsful of coffee1 with a sixth part of chicory1 for each pint of water4 ,as ,madame ,lebour-,fawssett remarks1 ,,cafe ,,au ,,lait is never complete without chicory1 but care should be taken not to overdo it1 since too much chicory renders the coffee quite undrinkable4 ,of course1 if you do not require as much as a pint of coffee1 the quantities may be reduced1 still observing the same proportions4 ,before pouring out the coffee1 the cup should first be half filled with hot milk1 and then the coffee added4 ,now1 having seen what proportions of coffee and chicory are to be employed for ,,cafe ,,noir and ,,cafe ,,au ,,lait respectively1 it will be better to describe the actual making of the coffee1 since the ,,cafetiere will then be more easily understood4 ,we will suppose its upper part is fitted into its place on the top of the lower portion1 and that the strainer and presser have been removed for the time being4 ,enough boiling water should first of all be poured in to fill both the upper and lower compartments1 allowed to stand for a couple of minutes1 and then poured away4 ,this brings everything to a proper heat for receiving the coffee4 ,next put the amount of coffee necessary upon the perforated floor of the upper part4 ,the coffee should then be well pressed down with the presser1 and the latter instrument next laid aside4 ,after this the strainer should be replaced on top of the upper compartment1 and the required amount of boiling water1 a little at a time1 poured in through it 7the strainer74 ,the object of pouring in the boiling water slowly is to give it time to percolate through the densely pressed coffee lying on the floor of the upper part4 ,there is a little tin cover fitting over the spout of the lower compartment1 which should be adjusted to keep in the steam4 ,the whole may then be set aside for a few minutes1 and when the coffee has passed into the lower part1 it is ready for use4 ,with a little practice1 and by paying attention to these details1 the most perfect coffee may be made4 ,,iced ,,drinks ,in ,australia some reference to the subject of iced drinks is necessarily required1 for they are in great request during the hot season4 ,there is a considerable amount of diversity of opinion as to their good and bad effects1 but it will be found that the experience of most medical men is that when used in moderation they greatly relieve thirst and are not injurious4 ,this1 indeed1 is my own belief1 and were it not for the abuse of iced drinks1 the same opinion would be held almost universally4 ,america is the country of countries in which the inordinate use of ice has gained for it a reputation which it has never deserved4 ,ice1 says ,george ,augustus ,sala1 is the alpha and omega of social life in the ,united ,states4 ,at the hotels1 first-class or otherwise1 the beverage partaken of at dinner is mostly iced water4 ,every repast1 in fact1 begins and ends with a glass of iced water4 ,when consumed in this way it is no wonder that it often disagrees1 and that ice-water dyspepsia is a definite malady in ,america4 ,and more than this1 imagine carrying the employment of ice to such an extent that it culminates in that gastronomical curiosity1 a ,,baked ,,ice6 ,the ,alaska is a ,,baked ,,ice1 of which the interior is an ice cream4 ,this latter is surrounded by an exterior of whipped cream1 made warm by means of a ,salamander4 ,the transition from the hot outside envelope to the frozen inside is painfully sudden1 and not likely to be attended with beneficial effect4 ,but the abuse of a good thing is no argument whatever against its use in a moderate and rational manner4 ,it will be desirable1 however1 to see what is believed in ,india about iced drinks1 for it will be something of a guide for us in ,australia4 ,there are two authorities in particular who have been already referred to1 and who have written on this matter in its application to ,india4 ,the first of these is ,sir ,james ,ranald ,martin1 who had twenty-two years experience there in different parts1 and is therefore entitled to be listened to4 ,he says that ice is a matter of necessity in the ,east1 and quotes ,dolomieu1 who observes of iced drinks that they revive the spirits1 strengthen the body1 and assist the digestion4 ,there is also that other great name1 that of ,sir ,joseph ,fayrer1 who is most competent to speak on ,indian matters4 ,in setting forth rules for the guidance of those who purpose living in ,india1 he remarks that iced water may be drunk with impunity there2 that he has no recollection of seeing any one suffer from drinking iced water or iced soda water in a hot climate2 and that in the great heat it is good1 since it tends to keep down the body temperature4 ,when the system is prostrated by the sun or extreme heat1 or exhausted by physical or intellectual exertion in a hot and damp atmosphere1 he believes that a glass of iced water slowly swallowed is far more refreshing than the iced brandy1 or whisky peg1 or draught of beer1 too frequently indulged in under such circumstances4 ,the different writers on food and dietetics1 who have given considerable attention to the same subject1 are almost unanimous in their opinion to the same effect4 ,there will be no occasion to refer to all of them1 but three at least deserve a brief mention4 ,dr4 ,burney ,yeo has recently observed that iced water1 when taken in small quantities1 is refreshing and cooling1 and likewise stimulates the digestive functions4 ,on the other hand1 it is certainly injurious when taken in inordinate amount4 ,according to ,dr4 ,t4 ,king ,chambers1 cool drinks are beneficial to the stomach in hot weather1 since they help to reduce the increased temperature to which the over-heated blood has brought it4 ,ice1 moreover1 is a valuable addition to the dietary both of the sick and of the healthy4 ,there is one caution to be observed1 however1 and it is that ice is injurious when the system is exhausted after violent exercise4 ,and lastly1 ,dr4 ,milner ,fothergill believes the craving for cool drinks during the hot weather is such1 that there is evidently some irrepressible desire to be satisfied4 ,he even writes that in his opinion the dyspepsia of ,americans is not entirely due to the free use of iced water1 but that there are other causes which help to bring it about4 ,but while all this is greatly in favour of the moderate use of iced drinks1 the purity of the source from which the ice is obtained is also a matter of the highest importance4 ,ice is not ice when the water from which it is derived is impure4 ,there was an outbreak of sickness amongst the visitors at one of the large hotels at ,rye ,beach1 a watering-place in ,america1 one summer4 ,the symptoms were an alarming disturbance of the with severe pain1 great feverishness1 and depression of spirits4 ,it was found that the ice which occasioned this outbreak had been taken from a stagnant pond containing a large amount of decomposing matter4 ,a portion of it was carefully melted1 and was found to contain a considerable quantity of decaying vegetable matter4 ,in the case of artificial ice1 the question of purity is even more important4 ,the reason for this is that the water used in the manufacture of artificial ice is usually frozen solid1 and whatever substances1 consequently1 are dissolved in the water remain in the ice itself4 ,,tobacco ,five out of every six male adults smoke1 whether it be cigarette1 cigar1 or pipe4 ,that is1 in a gathering of1 say1 #fjj men1 #ejj will be smokers and #ajj non-smokers4 ,at least1 this is the estimated proportion in the old country4 ,in ,australia the ratio is about the same1 but the average amount of tobacco used by every smoker is greater4 ,according to ,mr4 ,t4 ,a4 ,coghlan in his ,,wealth ,,and ,,progress ,,of ,,new ,,south ,,wales1 the annual consumption of tobacco in ,australia for each inhabitant is #c lbs4 all but a fraction4 ,for the ,united ,kingdom the corresponding amount is #a4da lbs42 and for the ,united ,states of ,america1 #d4dj lbs4 ,italy1 it would seem1 consumes in the same way #a4cd lbs42 ,france1 #b4je lbs42 ,germany1 #c lbs42 ,austria1 #c4gg lbs42 ,turkey1 #d4cg lbs42 while ,holland reaches the excessive amount of #f4ib lbs4 ,of the five colonies of ,australia1 namely1 ,new ,south ,wales1 ,victoria1 ,south ,australia1 ,queensland1 and ,west ,australia1 the use of tobacco is greatest in the latter two2 the figures for ,queensland being #c4ec lbs41 and for ,west ,australia #d4aa lbs4 ,with regard to the effect of tobacco on the human system1 it will perhaps be most convenient to make a division into the following three classes4 ,in the first place there are a certain number of people upon whom tobacco in any shape or form has an absolutely poisonous influence4 ,there must be some peculiar susceptibility of the system in their case which renders them especially vulnerable to its action4 ,on this account1 therefore1 they are better without tobacco at all1 and any attempt to habituate themselves to it must be attended with prejudice to health4 ,secondly1 there are many other people who can only use tobacco in its very mildest forms4 ,they may be able to smoke a few cigarettes daily1 perhaps only three or four2 if they indulge in a cigar1 it must be one of the mildest2 if a pipe1 the tobacco will have to be the very lightest4 ,anything exceeding their allowance is an excess for which they are obliged to pay the penalty4 ,then1 again1 there is a third class who can enjoy tobacco in moderation4 ,but these are the very people who are most apt to abuse their privilege4 ,and although they do not recognise it at once1 the effect of their excessive smoking is bound to assert itself at last1 and compel them to curtail their allowance4 ,if those in the second category1 who can enjoy the mildest tobacco in the smallest quantities1 and those in the third1 who can smoke in moderation1 were never to exceed their proper amount1 no very great harm would follow4 ,but it most frequently happens that both overstep their respective bounds1 and the result is injury to health4 ,the tobacco plant1 ,,nicotiana ,,tobacum1 belongs to the order ,solanaceae1 which also includes belladonna1 capsicum1 henbane1 and likewise the common potato4 ,its active principle1 an alkaloid--nicotine or nicotia --is combined with a vegetable acid4 ,some of the alkaloids1 such as morphine1 strychnine1 c41 are crystalline in character1 but this1 along with a few others1 is liquid4 ,a single drop of it is fatal to the smaller animals1 a cat or ,even as it is1 the first smoke usually produces characteristic results4 ,there is generally pallor of the face1 nausea1 and vomiting4 ,usually a cold1 clammy sweat breaks out1 and the heart seems as if it were about to stop4 ,the system1 however1 gradually becomes habituated to its action1 and these symptoms do not reappear4 ,seeing that this somewhat unpleasant apprenticeship is uncomplainingly served1 it is evident that in smoking there must be some powerful attraction4 ,there are many1 indeed1 who persist in it when it is doing them an inconceivable amount of injury4 ,it is a fortunate thing that almost all of the nicotine passes off1 or is burnt up1 or else the effect would be more markedly disastrous4 ,but the pleasurable effects of tobacco are derived in great part from the volatile alkaloids formed during combustion4 ,the alkaloids which develop during the smoking of a pipe are entirely different from those of a cigar4 ,in a pipe1 according to ,vold and ,eulenburg1 the tobacco yields a very much larger proportion of volatile bases1 especially of the very volatile and stupefying pyridine4 ,on the other hand1 a cigar produces but little pyridine1 but more of the less active collidine4 ,it is well known that very much stronger tobacco can be smoked as a cigar than as a pipe4 ,as a matter of fact a cigar which could be enjoyed as a cigar1 would cause sickness if cut up into small pieces and smoked in a pipe4 ,this pyridine to which reference has just been made has lately been brought forward as a remedy for asthma4 ,now1 the effect of tobacco in cutting short an attack of this latter malady is1 at times1 very marked4 ,and ,professor ,see1 the eminent ,french physician1 believes that the pyridine is the relieving agent4 ,in the earlier part of this section ,i have attempted to form a provisional classification of people as far as the effect of tobacco is concerned4 ,firstly1 those upon whom tobacco in any shape or form is an absolute poison2 secondly1 those who can enjoy a very small amount-daily2 and thirdly1 those who are able to smoke in moderation4 ,now1 while those who use tobacco with wise discretion appear to be none the worse for it1 yet it unfortunately happens that far too frequently there is no limit to this discretion4 ,it is too often the case1 therefore1 that quite a serious amount of damage to health results from excessive smoking4 ,it requires a good deal of judgment1 and even more resolution1 to use and not abuse tobacco4 ,there are certain symptoms which should lead a man either to curtail his allowance1 or else give up tobacco altogether4 ,these are marked nervousness1 trembling of the whole body1 unsteadiness of the hands1 and twitching of different muscles4 ,there may be also swimming of the head1 severe headache1 and a feeling of despondency4 ,in other cases there may be irritability of temper1 a want of will determination1 and progressive loss of memory4 ,the special senses--sight1 hearing1 taste1 smell1 and touch--may all be blunted4 ,the ,bight and hearing are often markedly affected4 ,colour blindness is sometimes a result1 and there may be that impairment of vision known tobacco ,,amblyopia4 ,as regards the hearing1 too1 there is not unfrequently a drumming in the ears and confusion of sounds4 ,and more than this1 tobacco1 when unsuitable or used in excess1 has other prejudicial effects4 ,its action on the heart is well known1 and is frequently manifested by violent palpitation and by disturbed action of the heart4 ,there is also a definite disorder known as the smoker's heart4 ,in this affection the beats1 instead of being regular1 are very rapid1 suddenly becoming very slow4 ,in this way the rhythm of the heart has been aptly compared by ,dr4 ,lauder ,brunton to a restive horse1 who goes into a gallop for a few yards1 next pulls up all at once1 and then breaks off into a gallop again4 ,when tobacco has these prejudicial effects upon the heart1 it is no good diminishing the allowance4 ,the only way to bring about any good result is to knock it off altogether4 ,in addition to its direct action on the heart1 tobacco smoking may also bring on a sudden fainting1 in which there is absolutely no warning4 ,this condition may develop from the tobacco alone1 but in many instances nervous excitement or shock are superadded4 ,professor ,fraser1 of ,edinburgh1 has observed that quite a number of his college friends1 who smoked to an inordinate extent as students1 were obliged to give up tobacco as middle age approached4 ,several of them had to do so on account of the onset of these sudden fainting fits4 ,many smokers also suffer from what is termed chronic pharyngitis4 ,in this affection the mucous membrane at the back part of the mouth looks like dirty-red velvet1 and there is also a constant hawking of phlegm4 ,and further1 indigestion itself is in many eases entirely due to excessive smoking1 from which there is no relief except by abandoning the habit altogether4 ,but even when tobacco does not produce such marked ill effects1 it is as well to remember that it has always a definite action from a gastronomic point of view4 ,and it is this1 that directly after the first draw of a cigarette1 cigar1 or pipe1 the palate loses its delicacy of perception4 ,as ,sir ,henry ,thompson remarks1 after smoke the power to appreciate good wine is lost1 and no judicious host cares to open a fresh bottle from his best bin for the smoker4 ,this is perfectly true2 under such circumstances valuable wine would simply be thrown away4 ,but1 on the other hand1 there is an unquestionable sympathy between coffee and tobacco1 and a cup of ,mocha blends harmoniously with choice ,latakia4 ,this is well recognised in the ,east2 and throughout the ,continent coffee and temperate habits go hand in hand with the cigar or cigarette4 ,we must also agree with ,sir ,henry when he declares that smoke and alcoholic drinks are only found associated together in ,great ,britain and other northern nations1 where there are to be found the most insensitive palates in ,europe4 ,it is a good thing1 therefore1 that the habits followed here are unknown to him1 or else ,australia would certainly have had a rap over the knuckles4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,exercise ,this comes last alphabetically of the five essentials concerned in the maintenance of health--namely1 ablution3 the skin and the bath2 bed-room ventilation2 clothing2 diet2 and exercise--but it is none the less important on that account4 ,exercise may be defined as action of the body1 whereby its organs and their functions are kept in a state of health4 ,each one of us has from the moment of his existence a certain stature allotted1 as it were1 to which he will attain4 ,in this way some will be tall1 others will be short1 so that the height of the body is something quite beyond our control1 as we know by the interrogation1 ,which of you by taking thought can add one cubit to his stature8 ,but in contradistinction to height1 we know that the muscles of the body can be developed and increased in size by use4 ,it is by their action in exercise that the muscles are enlarged1 hardened1 and brought to their greatest state of perfection4 ,and it is only by exercise1 and by exercise alone1 that they can be maintained at the acme of physical condition4 ,now1 in the same way that education develops and increases the power of the brain1 so exercise has a similar effect on the body4 ,when the muscles are strengthened1 the beneficial effect is also participated in by the heart1 lungs1 and digestive organs1 and thus the removal of worn-out material from the body is assisted4 ,the effect of exercise is thus to remove used up products from the system1 and so afford an opportunity for renewed material to take their place4 ,ceaseless changes are constantly going on throughout the body1 and any part which has fulfilled its object is no longer necessary for the requirements of the system1 in fact it becomes injurious4 ,its removal has to take place by one of the various outlets1 and it is by exercise that its expulsion is greatly assisted4 ,in this way exercise differs altogether from the part played by food4 ,the latter is the introduction of nourishment into the system for the renewal of its wants1 while exercise is the principal agent by which ,,debris is eliminated4 ,it was well known amongst the ,greeks and ,romans that the muscles reached their greatest state of development by means of exercise4 ,though1 therefore1 gymnastics formed a great part of their system of education1 yet the chief aim in their athletic instruction was the desire to train men to fight their battles1 and in those days war was a matter of personal valour and of individual bravery4 ,on that account1 therefore1 the men who were selected as their soldiers were among the healthiest of the nation4 ,those who by reason of bodily infirmity or inherent weakness were unfitted for military prowess were left alone4 ,but1 as ,maclaren has well pointed out1 the object of systematic and proper exercise is not for the production of a race of soldiers1 though a certain proportion of the population will always be required for military service4 ,with the great majority of men the struggle for existence is keen1 and it is simply a question of the survival of the fittest1 and of the weakest going to the wall4 ,the requirements of the present time are therefore a capacity for endurance and an ability to withstand the effects of work day after day4 ,we do not require athletes who are capable of performing wonderful feats of strength2 but the fight of the nineteenth century is brain against brain1 and he will be best equipped for the struggle who has the advantage of good bodily health4 ,in the higher callings1 where brain power is everything1 the necessity for perfect physical condition is all the more imperative1 because the brain is supplied with healthy blood1 and the ideas flow with less effort4 ,the brain is an organ of the body exactly in the same way that the heart1 the lungs1 and the liver are1 and therefore is subject to the same changes which belong to every other part of the frame4 ,it will be at its best when there is circulating through it a full supply of rich red arterial blood1 for that means a continual renewal of fresh material to it1 and a speedy removal of worn-out products4 ,it is by exercise mainly1 whether it be voluntarily undertaken1 or whether it pertain to the calling1 that the body is kept at the pink of condition1 and the brain benefited accordingly4 ,another great and important result from improving the bodily health is the increased power of what we call the will4 ,the undertaking1 say1 of a long walk or climb involves the possession of a certain amount of determination1 and many people1 though perfectly aware of the good to be obtained by a few hours' exercise outside the house1 have not the determination to carry it into effect4 ,once the disinclination to move is overcome1 the effort required is less each time1 and ultimately the will gains a distinct mastery4 ,when the muscles are put into action1 what is termed their contractility is called into play--that is1 the force which was dormant before is roused into activity4 ,this is effected through the nervous system1 and it is the will which emanates from the brain and is carried along certain nerves to accomplish definite actions4 ,during the contraction of a muscle its individual fibres change in form1 producing an alteration in the shape of the whole muscle2 thus it becomes shorter and thicker4 ,at the same time1 while it is in action more blood flows through it1 hence we see that one of the beneficial effects of exercise is to stimulate the circulation through the muscular system4 ,it has also been ascertained by experiments1 that the venous blood which comes from a muscle in action is darker in colour than that from a muscle in repose4 ,when the circulation is quickened by movement1 and the blood stream hastened1 the vigour of the body is increased1 because the used up material is all the quicker taken away1 and a freshly created supply of nutrition brought to every part4 ,the rate of breathing is accelerated whenever the body is engaged in muscular exertion1 and with this quickened breathing there is an increased amount of oxygen drawn in1 and an increased amount of carbonic acid gas and water exhaled by the breath4 ,the oxygen which is absorbed from the air into the blood is stored in the red corpuscles of the latter1 by which it is carried to every part of the body4 ,the venous blood which returns from every portion of the system comes back as a dark crimson1 instead of being bright scarlet like the arterial blood4 ,it contains carbonic acid1 and returns it to the lungs1 where it is exhaled by the breath4 ,the oxygen is necessary to existence1 while the carbonic acid is injurious4 ,the effect of exercise1 then1 in any form1 is thus to distribute healthy blood more rapidly through the system1 while it removes the injurious matters quite as speedily4 ,the effect of active exercise on the heart1 as it is well known1 is to make it beat faster2 by this the blood is driven through the body at a quicker rate than usual4 ,sometimes1 when the effort is unusually severe1 there is a disturbance of the regular balance between the heart and the lungs4 ,there is thus produced an irregular or unequal action of the former1 causing what is known as loss of wind1 which is1 however1 soon restored by resting4 ,there is an excessive flow of blood to the surface of the body1 causing it to redden1 and at the same time the perspiration is greatly increased4 ,it is on account of this latter moisture opening up the pores of the skin that the good effects of exercise are chiefly due4 ,the perspiration consists mainly of water containing different salts and organic matters4 ,it is found by experiment that the amount of water passing through the lungs and skin is usually doubled even with moderate exertion4 ,the result of moderate exercise in benefiting the nervous system is well known1 and the effect of a gentle walk in making the ideas flow through the brain is a matter of common observation4 ,at the same time1 it must be borne in mind that exercise1 when carried to the verge of fatigue1 compels inactivity of the brain for a time1 since ,nature must have repose4 ,but when carried out in moderation with a view of improving the condition of the body1 it conduces to the salubrity of the brain as well1 for the latter organ shares in the health of the former4 ,the only thing to guard against is irregular and fitful doses2 thus it is far better to take a little in moderation daily1 than to attempt to make one day's exercise suffice for the rest of the week4 ,it follows from the foregoing1 therefore1 that without exercise a perfect state of health is an impossibility4 ,there can be no proper bodily health unless there be daily exercise4 ,it is the same with everybody1 no matter what the condition of life may be4 ,exercise is quite as necessary for the well-to-do man as it is for him who is not so circumstanced4 ,the laws of health cannot be violated1 and all the money in the world will not atone for neglect in this respect4 ,exercise is not a matter that can be carried out by proxy4 ,no2 each one must take his own exercise1 and he derives all the benefit for himself4 ,it is a fortunate thing1 then1 that most people have to earn their own living1 for the exertion thereby entailed is actually necessary for health4 ,yet1 while this is the case with those who live by their bodily labour1 it hardly applies to those who are more dependent upon mental work4 ,for instance1 the latter include literary men and journalists1 the members of the professions1 and those of the vast commercial world--all1 indeed1 who have brain strain and clerical occupations4 ,in their case the great fault is that they use their heads too much and their limbs too little4 ,for them walking is one of the very best means of obtaining health1 and it should be regularly and systematically practised4 ,it has been said that no man under sixty1 unless he be kept walking while at his work1 should walk less than six or eight miles a day1 if he wishes to keep well and have healthy children4 ,in the cooler weather in ,australia these are certainly suitable distances1 but in the hot months half these amounts will be found sufficient1 and they had better be carried out in the cool of the evening4 ,then again1 for those over sixty it has been well observed that a daily walk is still the best means of promoting health4 ,but the walk must always be proportionate to the strength1 and should be done at nothing more than a moderate pace1 if a man wishes to take care of his blood vessels4 ,there is another matter which calls for notice1 and it is that of early morning exercise4 ,now1 ,i am quite willing to admit that there are many who derive great benefit from their early morning swim1 their matutinal walk1 or their tennis before breakfast4 ,but it should be distinctly borne in mind that there are others with whom such early morning exercise does not agree4 ,they get as a result a weary1 languid feeling which lasts throughout the entire day4 ,now1 they are apt to imagine it is the exercise in itself which produces this effect4 ,but the truth is1 it arises from the time of day at which the exercise is taken1 and is not due to the exertion at all4 ,it must not be forgotten1 therefore1 that while many people derive the greatest advantage from early morning exercise1 yet there are others for whom it is altogether unsuitable4 ,but1 on the other hand1 the latter will obtain every possible benefit by taking their allowance of exercise at some other period of the twenty-four hours4 ,there are other forms of exercise besides walking1 and these have their good points4 ,riding is1 of course1 invaluable1 especially in cases of sluggish liver4 ,as it has been wittily observed1 the outside of a horse is the best thing for the inside of a man4 ,in the cool months in ,australia riding is a real pleasure1 but in the hot season it is hardly so agreeable4 ,then again1 rowing is a magnificent exercise1 and has much to recommend it in early adult life4 ,there is no harm whatever in rowing as an exercise1 but when it comes to racing that is a different matter4 ,it is the great strain on the heart1 together with the excitement which constitute the sources of risk4 ,the other varieties of exercise1 namely1 gardening1 the different games1 cricket1 football1 tennis1 c41 need not be particularized as they all subserve the same purposes1 and are in consequence very desirable4 ,in all the preceding ,i have endeavoured to show that daily exercise is absolutely necessary for the proper maintenance of health4 ,but there is something even more than this4 ,it is that a long life itself is to be ensured by exercise4 ,it is only by exercise1 and by exercise alone1 that the various organs of the body1 the heart1 the lungs1 the stomach1 the liver1 c41 are maintained in their normal state of health4 ,their condition1 moreover1 is only to be improved by the muscular movements belonging to exercise4 ,the heart itself is intended for action1 not for inaction4 ,by action it thrives1 and by disuse it becomes weakened4 ,it is so with all the other organs4 ,in conclusion1 therefore1 it must be said that the whole system can only be kept in perfect health by muscular movements1 and that in addition to keeping the body in health exercise actually increases the chances of living to a good old age4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,on ,,school ,,cookery ,,and ,,its ,,influence ,,on ,,the ,,australian ,,daily ,,life4 ,,bad ,,cookery ,,diminishes ,,happiness1 ,,and ,,shortens ,,life4--,,wisdom ,,of ,,ages4 ,in all probability there are but few who have ever had their attention called to certain figures duly set forth within the pages of that mine of information1 namely1 ,mr4 ,t4 ,a4 ,coghlan's ,,wealth ,,and ,,progress ,,of ,,new ,,south ,,wales4 ,nevertheless1 the facts associated with these statistics so directly concern our ,australian daily life that they deserve to be widely known4 ,that portion of the work in which our food supply is considered1 therefore1 is well worth referring to4 ,it will he found that the consumption of butcher's meat by each inhabitant is greater than in any other country in the world4 ,thus the amount of meat required for each member of the community every year in ,new ,south ,wales is #bja lbs42 in ,victoria #bge lbs42 whilst in ,queensland #cgj lbs4 are called for4 ,on the other hand1 in the ,united ,kingdom only #aji lbs4 are similarly needed2 in the ,united ,states of ,america #aej lbs4 while the figures for the different ,european countries show an average of no more than #gj lbs4 ,another article of commerce which is consumed to excess in all parts is tea4 ,as ,i have previously stated1 it is estimated by ,coghlan that the four million people in ,australasia use more of this beverage than all the millions who inhabit continental ,europe1 that is1 if ,russia be excluded2 but he further points out that in ,australia itself the use of tea is universal4 ,the tables show that for each inhabitant ,new ,south ,wales requires annually #g4h lbs42 ,victoria1 #g4g lbs42 ,south ,australia1 #f4e lbs42 and ,queensland #h4d lbs42 and moreover1 that ,west ,australia attains a maximum with #aj4f lbs4 ,now1 according to ,mulhall1 in his ,,dictionary ,,of ,,statistics1 the amount of tea consumed annually for each inhabitant in the ,united ,kingdom is only #e lbs42 and for the ,united ,states of ,america the proportion is but #a4e lbs4 ,a survey of these figures consequently must compel us to admit that ,australia is inhabited by a people largely carnivorous and addicted to tea4 ,surely not one person in a thousand would advocate such a diet under any circumstances4 ,is it not astonishing1 therefore1 that innutritious fare of this land is still tolerated in ,australia8 ,facts such as these call for the most serious consideration1 since they must irresistibly affect the national life2 but though it may seem strange1 these matters have never received the notice they stand in need of1 if1 indeed1 they have ever received any notice at all4 ,there are worlds of interest1 however1 centred in the notable circumstance that ,australia1 a new and a semitropical country1 is now being peopled by the descendants of those who belonged to an entirely different climate4 ,at the present time the old racial instincts are actively powerful1 and exert an influence diametrically opposed to climatic surroundings2 and1 as a matter of fact1 we are witnessing a struggle between our ,anglo-,saxon heredities and our ,australian environment4 ,but such a conflict against our destiny is one in which the odds are overwhelmingly on one side4 ,for of all forces1 that of climate is the most powerful4 ,it is true that man is able almost to remove mountains1 and that he can create rivers in an arid land2 but to endeavour to resist the dominating influence of climate is to attempt the impossible4 ,yet there is something more than all this which should induce us to follow the promptings of nature2 this is the fact that ,australia will only reach the zenith of her possibilities when her people conform to her climatic requirements4 ,for what would the latter mean8 ,market gardens innumerable1 and a healthy and lucrative life for all concerned2 the development of her deep-sea fisheries1 and employment1 direct as well as indirect1 to thousands2 the cultivation of the vine1 with all the wealth pertaining to smiling vineyards2 the growth of the olive and other fruits1 and all the other industries which only await their creation2 and instead of this1 at present1 all we possess is the knowledge that we are the greatest meat-eating and tea-drinking race on earth4 ,,progressive ,,changes ,,in ,,the ,,theories ,,of ,,education4 ,we are told that it was ,jean ,jacques ,rousseau who first entirely severed education and learning4 ,in his ,emile1 published in #agfb1 he advocated a more natural and less pedantic method of training and developing the physical1 mental1 and moral faculties of the young4 ,the work produced an astounding effect on its appearance1 and has largely influenced the educational methods throughout ,europe4 ,not so long afterwards1 in #ahja1 ,johann ,heinrich ,pestalozzi1 permeated with the atmosphere following the ,french ,revolution1 gave to the world his views on education in his work ,,how ,,gertrude ,,teaches ,,her ,,children4 ,the essence of his belief being that sense-impression is the foundation of instruction1 he counselled the development of all the faculties in preference to the mere acquisition of words4 ,words alone1 said he1 cannot give us a knowledge of things2 they are only useful for giving expression to what we have in our own minds4 ,consequently1 he believed in imparting instruction by a direct appeal to the senses and the understanding so as to call forth all the powers1 selecting the subjects of study so that each step should progressively assist the pupil's advancement4 ,he contended that observation was the method by which knowledge was principally gained1 and that the perceptive faculties 7intuition7 were developed by observation4 ,even in his own time his ideas were awarded a recognition of their value2 in fact1 he had the honour of being specially visited by ,prince de ,talleyrand and ,madame de ,stael4 ,in the early part of the present century another reformer1 ,friedrich ,wilhelm ,august ,froebel1 arose to influence all future educational methods4 ,as with ,rousseau1 ,froebel held that each age belonged to itself1 and that the perfection of the later stage could only be attained through perfection of the earlier4 ,so1 too1 while ,pestalozzi upheld that the faculties were developed by exercise1 ,froebel went farther1 and added that the function of education was to develop the faculties by arousing ,,voluntary ,,activity1 in this way becoming1 according to ,michelet1 the greatest of educational reformers4 ,froebel was convinced that man was primarily a doer1 indeed1 even a creator1 and that he learnt only through self-activity4 ,in action1 moreover1 there was not alone the mere physical exercise1 but also the actual unfolding and strengthening of the mental powers4 ,to ,froebel1 indeed1 belongs the honour of originating the kindergarten system1 which is making such progress at the present time2 and more than this1 it may be said that while it is employed only in the earlier stages of education1 yet his principles are beginning to make themselves felt throughout the entire system of education4 ,as a matter of fact1 what is known in ,sweden and in ,finland as ,,sloyd1 or manual instruction1 may be regarded as a continuation of the ,kindergarten system4 ,through the exertions of ,uno ,cygnaeus the whole of the national system of education in ,finland was reorganized1 and manual work was first made a part of the regular instruction in the common schools4 ,in ,sweden1 likewise1 the same principles have been introduced chiefly by ,herr ,otto ,salomon1 the director of the great sloyd seminarum at ,naas4 ,sloyd work is used in the schools in a disciplinary way as an integral part of general education2 the children1 generally boys1 are employed for a certain number of hours a week in making articles of common household use4 ,it is maintained that work of this kind is specially invaluable in supplementing the ordinary school education of the three ,r's4 ,it fulfils the injunction to put the whole boy to school2 it develops faculties which would otherwise lie dormant1 while at the same time it trains the eye and does away with clumsy fingers4 ,,the ,,purpose ,,of ,,education4 ,from the foregoing it will be seen that within the last #acj years a striking change has come over the view held respecting education4 ,prior to that time an artificial and pedantic method prevailed1 which received its first check from the pen of ,rousseau4 ,the system which he attacked1 however1 built up as it was upon centuries of mediaeval learning1 was not to be disposed of by this one encounter4 ,such a result was not to be expected in the natural order of things2 but as the ideas of ,rousseau contained the living truth1 they were bound to find advocacy in due course1 and though the seed might lie quiescent for a time1 yet it was sure to germinate sooner or later4 ,after him the path of educational reform was illumined by the genius of ,pestalozzi1 and a few years later ,froebel appeared to influence for ever the methods of education4 ,indeed1 it was the latter who by his kindergarten system has founded the practical education of our own day4 ,the vast change1 then1 along the whole line of education has been from scholastic learning towards that of education in manual training4 ,this is the truest recognition of the fact that the purpose of education is to prepare a child for his journey through life1 and not merely to get him ready for an examination2 but although the meaning of education has thus become more apparent1 there is still too much a tendency in the present day to burden the developing mind with a multiplicity of subjects4 ,we do not wish to produce a living encyclopaedia1 but we desire to create a being1 well trained in all his senses1 and thoroughly competent to take his part in the battle of life4 ,far be it from imagining that ,i decry the advantages of learning in the slightest degree1 but surely there is the broadest distinction between a scholastic prodigy and a practical well-informed mortal4 ,this exaggeration of the function of education expressed by the word multiplicity deserves a little consideration1 for it would appear that our educationists overlook the fact that the organism with which they have to deal is going through the most critical period of its existence4 ,at the very time that children are rapidly undergoing the process of physical development1 there is superadded the acquirement of elaborate mental knowledge1 and when bone and muscle and sinew are in the active processes of transformation and growth1 then it is that the intellectual faculties are spurred on at a killing pace4 ,the child leaves school in the afternoon with a load of home lessons to be prepared for the following day4 ,the very meaning of the word school has become distorted2 instead of being a medium for imparting instruction1 it threatens to become merely a building in which the lessons learned at home overnight are heard1 and besides this1 if the school is thus to become simply a place for hearing lessons1 the office of schoolmaster must correspondingly suffer4 ,this ,i hope will never be1 for it would at once take away all personality from the teacher1 and transmute him into a mere auditory machine4 ,his individuality would become lost in the official1 and teaching as teaching resolve itself into a stereotyped function2 and this latter consideration leads me to remark that one man has the gift of imparting knowledge1 in which another fails entirely4 ,one instructor has a way of putting things so that they ale retained in the memory of his pupils for ever1 while another so fails to express himself that not one clear idea is carried away by his hearers4 ,the chief purpose of education should be the preparation of the young for their adult life4 ,as ,agesilaus the ,great observed when one asked him what boys should learn3 ,that1 said he1 which they shall use when men4 ,but the future of the two sexes differs entirely after school life is over4 ,it will follow1 therefore1 that there should be an essential difference between the education required for the boy and that for the girl4 ,in our present day system of education1 however1 there is too much a disposition to make no such distinction4 ,the boy in the greater number of cases is the bread-winner1 and has to rely on his own exertions1 whether they be manual or mental4 ,the girl1 on the other hand1 looks forward to the destiny of housewife4 ,this aspect of the educational problem certainly deserves to have more attention paid to it than it has yet received4 ,still a step in the light direction has been made by ,james ,platt1 the author of many valuable works on currency1 finance1 c41 who advocates that business habits and kindred matters should be taught to all youths4 ,of course it is not intended that the sole object of education should be the principles of money making1 but at the same time there is a considerable amount of truth in his contention4 ,but the chief purpose ,i have in view is to advocate a thorough and systematic teaching of ,cookery to girls4 ,in the remaining part of this chapter1 therefore1 ,i shall endeavour to bring forward reasons in support of my proposition4 ,,cookery ,,instruction ,,in ,,england1 ,,new ,,south ,,wales1 ,,and ,,victoria4 ,under this heading ,i propose to describe briefly what is being done in connection with ,cookery ,instruction in the places mentioned4 ,now the principal object ,i have in view is to further the teaching of ,cookery to girls during school life4 ,it will1 however1 somewhat strengthen my advocacy if ,i refer to the beginning of this movement in ,england1 for it undoubtedly had its origin in causes quite outside of any educational system4 ,there is no question but that the increased facilities for communication1 resulting from the advent of steamships and railways1 gave to travel an impetus it never before experienced4 ,and as a result thousands of people in the old country acquired a practical knowledge of ,continental life1 which would otherwise never have been theirs4 ,these travellers saw for themselves the perfection of ,cookery in countries like ,france1 and naturally their eyes were opened to the neglect which culinary matters received in their own land2 at least1 this seems to me a satisfactory explanation of what has occurred1 and ,i put it forward1 therefore1 purely as a matter of personal opinion1 and whether this is the right reason or not1 it is quite certain that a desire for improvement in this direction is insensibly coming over our ,english people4 ,it would seem that ,mr4 ,buckmaster gave a series of lectures in the ,cookery ,school at the ,international ,exhibition in #ahgc and #ahgd4 ,as a considerable portion of space was devoted to food1 it was rightly thought that some practical remark on the subject would prove of distinct advantage4 ,just about this time1 too1 in #ahgd1 a good start was made by the establishment of a ,national ,training ,school for ,cookery at ,south ,kensington4 ,from its inception success seemed to smile upon it4 ,its numbers began to increase1 steadily at first1 and afterwards by leaps and bounds4 ,it clearly filled a place that had been wanting2 and moreover1 the objects it had in view were identified with all that was praiseworthy4 ,it was proof positive of the long cherished opinion as to the neglect of ,cookery in a girl's education4 ,its courses of instruction are for educated persons who desire to qualify themselves to become teachers of ,cookery2 for students and cooks2 and for those who wish to be able to cook in their own homes4 ,its distinctive feature1 however1 lies in its artisan kitchen4 ,it is by means of this that families1 which spend from seven to twenty shillings weekly in the purchase of food1 will be so greatly benefitted4 ,nothing can exceed this in importance1 for any improvement in the ,cookery of the whole bulk of the people becomes a matter of national welfare4 ,a conspicuous instance of the success which has attended the establishment of the ,national ,training ,school for ,cookery is the almost annual appearance of a new edition of its hand-book1 which is published under its auspices4 ,therein will be found a most detailed account of the steps necessary for the preparation of innumerable dishes1 and the different instructions are given with a minuteness which leaves nothing to be desired4 ,at this period1 also1 the ,masters of the ,cooks' ,company1 not to be outdone in anything calculated to promote the progress of the culinary art1 had several young girls brought from ward schools1 and taught in the artisan kitchen already referred to4 ,indeed1 they were instructed entirely at the expense of the ,company4 ,this was liberality of the most commendable kind1 and it is satisfactory to see a corporate body acting in such a practical fashion4 ,an ounce of practice is worth a pound of theory4 ,this growing recognition of the importance of ,cookery in the old country at last spread to the educational world1 although it has not yet obtained that position which it must eventually acquire2 but the ball has been set rolling in the right path1 and the necessity for instruction in the culinary art is so self-evident1 that there can be no doubt as to the ultimate result4 ,it is gratifying in this connection1 therefore1 to know that the kindred subject of ,elementary ,laundry ,work has now become part of a girl's education4 ,the ,education ,code of #ahij contains specific reference to the fact that special and appropriate provision has been made for the practical teaching of ,laundry ,work1 and is also accompanied by instructions to the effect that the appliances and methods employed in teaching should be those which are possible in the homes of working people4 ,i have referred to this in passing1 as it directly concerns the point at issue4 ,it would have been a matter of considerable difficulty for a private individual like myself to have collected authentic information relative to the present status of ,cookery in ,english and ,australian schools4 ,under these circumstances1 therefore1 ,i deemed it best to apply directly to head-quarters for official statements4 ,mr4 ,edwin ,johnson1 the courteous ,under-,secretary for ,public ,instruction in ,new ,south ,wales1 willingly undertook to place me in possession of all the facts ,i required as far as ,england and this colony are concerned4 ,i shall1 therefore1 give his account of what is being done in the old country2 and next condense from his remarks the substance of what has taken place in ,new ,south ,wales with regard to this vital matter4 ,in ,england1 the ,education ,department conditionally wants aid to ,cookery ,instruction in connection with ,state ,aided ,primary ,schools under the following stipulations3 what provision as to buildings1 c41 has been made for ,cookery ,instruction in accordance with the conditions prescribed4 ,the ,department then grants aid at the rate of four shillings per head in day schools1 and two shillings per head in evening1 or1 as they are sometimes called1 continuation schools1 on the number of pupils in the fourth and higher standards presented for examination in ,cookery4 ,the classes are taught by ordinary ,primary ,school ,teachers who have been trained in ,cookery work1 and have obtained certificates of qualifications4 ,under the ,london ,school ,board1 ,cookery classes are established in different centres in connection with a large number of the schools2 and to a less extent similar classes are organized by the ,school ,boards of some of the larger country towns4 ,grants from the ,education ,department are annually obtained for the work by these schools4 ,in ,new ,south ,wales1 the teaching of ,cookery in connection with the ,public ,schools has long been advocated2 and about ten years ago1 special lectures on the subject1 and demonstrations1 were given under authority2 these did not1 however1 then lead to any practical results4 ,early in #ahhf1 ,mrs4 ,fawcett ,story1 who had previously taught ,cookery successfully in connection with the ,sydney ,technical ,college1 was appointed1 on probation1 lecturer and demonstrator in ,cookery and ,domestic ,economy to the students at ,hurlstone ,training ,college1 the object being to qualify such students as ,instructors of ,cookery for schools in which they would in the future be employed as teachers4 ,after three months successful work at ,hurlstone1 ,mrs4 ,story's appointment was confirmed and she has continued to carry on the work4 ,at first appointed ,instructress1 she now takes rank as ,directress of ,cookery4 ,in #ahhi a ,cookery class was established at the ,fort ,street ,public ,school1 and this proving successful1 the instruction was extended to other schools4 ,three classes of work were embodied in the plan arranged to be carried out1 namely3-- 99 #a4 ,an ,elementary ,cookery ,course1 99 99 #b4 ,a ,plain1 or ,intermediate ,cookery ,course1 99 99 #c4 ,a ,teachers' ,course1 99 and at the close of #ahij the numbers receiving instruction had reached #bgj4 ,in #ahia the work was extended to the ,sydney and ,suburban ,schools4 ,classes were also established in connection with those of ,bathurst and ,goulburn1 and arrangements for training a class of ,pupil ,teachers in this important work were made and carried out4 ,in #ahia the number under ,cookery ,instruction in connection with the school reached #geg1 and during the year #ahib arrangements were also made for extending ,cookery ,instruction among the masses of the people on the basis already described4 ,it should also be remembered that classes for ,cookery ,instruction have for some years past been established in connection with the ,technical ,college in ,sydney1 and more recently in the similar colleges of the larger towns and centres4 ,as far as ,victoria is concerned1 ,i am under considerable obligation to ,mr4 ,t4 ,brodribb1 the ,secretary of the ,education ,office1 ,melbourne1 for the following information4 ,it would appear that although the subject has not been systematically taught throughout the schools1 instruction in ,cookery has been given by experts to the elder female pupils in a number of ,metropolitan ,state ,schools for the past two years2 two courses of #ab lessons being undertaken in each school between the months of ,april and ,november4 ,the instruction has consisted of the preparation of plain wholesome dishes and sickroom ,cookery2 the proper care and arrangement of the various utensils employed forming an important part of each lesson4 ,reports obtained from ,head ,teachers show that1 in most cases1 the lessons were productive of much benefit to the children1 and were thoroughly appreciated4 ,at present1 however1 the teaching of the subject has been temporarily interrupted2 but it is to be hoped that before long a recognition of its vital importance will enable measures to be taken for its permanent continuance4 ,,cookery ,,in ,,its ,,relation ,,to ,,health4 ,we are drawing nearer and nearer to an appreciation of the power which ,cookery wields in the preservation of health1 but this awakening as to its value has been too tardy1 indeed1 it has been from a slumber of centuries4 ,not that good ,cookery has not been practised from time immemorial1 but its recognition from a scientific point of view is almost within our own day2 and even at the present time1 dietetics1 or that department of medicine which relates to food and diet1 is only gradually assuming a position which is destined ultimately to become second to none4 ,moreover1 there is still ample room for improvement in this direction1 and matters will not be rectified till a comprehensive study of food and its preparation1 both for the healthy as well as the sick1 is embodied in the curriculum of modern medical education4 ,not so long ago ,,the ,,lancet made reference to the ,edinburgh ,school of ,cookery and ,domestic ,economy1 which had been opened by the ,princess ,louise4 ,it was pointed out that good cookery had more to do with health and comfort1 and therefore with domestic happiness1 than any other known accomplishment4 ,in the same article1 moreover1 it was remarked that it would be out of all keeping with the position of ,edinburgh as a medical centre1 if the importance1 in sickness1 of good cookery and suitable food were not fully recognised4 ,in conclusion1 the same authority expressed the hope that this commendable example would be adopted by many other towns4 ,all this is satisfactory in showing that the preparation of food for the table is a subject which can no longer be pooh-poohed1 and there are other signs and tokens which unmistakably point to the same conclusion4 ,as a proof of this it is only necessary to point to the fact that eminent physicians have written prefaces to works on cookery1 and more than this1 have contributed to the literature of the same4 ,there is a very excellent handbook by ,phillis ,browne1 to which the late ,sir ,j4 ,risdon ,bennett1 a former ,president of the ,royal ,college of ,physicians1 ,london1 contributed the prefatory note4 ,in it he remarks1 the value of wholesome and properly-cooked food has never been sufficiently understood or appreciated in the ,united ,kingdom4 ,in scarcely any other country1 says he1 does so much prejudice and ignorance prevail on the subject of food and its employment4 ,and in proceeding to speak of the growing tendency to make instruction in cookery a part of ordinary education1 he adds that this must be a subject for sincere rejoicing with those who desire both the moral and physical welfare of the poorer classes4 ,this is not the only evidence of interest which the same physician took in this matter1 for he has also written an admirable and lengthy article on ,food and its ,uses in ,health4 ,but there is another writer to whom the ,english speaking people are deeply indebted for a knowledge of all that pertains to food and cookery2 ,i refer to ,sir ,henry ,thompson1 the eminent ,london surgeon4 ,his work on ,,food ,,and ,feeding has already run through six editions1 and one can only hope that he will long be enabled to benefit his race by a succession of issues4 ,he has written other volumes on the same subject1 and further1 by his contributions to ,,the ,,nineteenth ,,century and ,the ,lancet1 he has materially raised the status of the culinary art4 ,and there are also quite a number of works on diet1 and on food1 written by well-known authorities in the medical world1 so that the science of dietetics must eventually attain an unassailable position4 ,the preceding naturally leads up to the main point1 namely1 the controlling influence which cookery exercises over health4 ,now if ,i were asked to name the one single cause which produces more indigestion than anything else1 ,i should unhesitatingly answer1 bad ,cookery4 ,many people ,fun away with the idea that good ,cookery is necessarily elaborate ,cookery1 and that in consequence it is quite beyond the ordinary purse4 ,such is not1 by any means1 the case1 and as a matter of fact good ,cookery aims at getting the best possible results at the least possible cost4 ,herein lies the excellence of ,french ,cookery1 and as ,i have occasion to remark elsewhere1 the bulk of the population in that country live infinitely better than does the average ,briton4 ,indigestion1 then1 is the great primary result of bad cookery4 ,but1 on the other hand1 let us hear what ,dr4 ,lauder ,brunton has to say on the score of food when properly prepared4 ,savoury food1 says he1 causes the digestive juices to be freely secreted2 well cooked and palatable food is therefore more digestible than unpalatable1 and if the food lacks savour1 a desire naturally arises to supply it by condiments1 not always well selected or wholesome4 ,but important as good ,cookery1 in itself1 may be in its influence upon health1 there is still another essential1 which must not be overlooked4 ,and it is that of variety4 ,the oft-quoted phrase of ,,toujours ,,perdrix bears upon this very point4 ,it is a way of saying that even a luscious dish when constantly repeated becomes wearisome1 or1 in other words1 that there is too much of the same thing over and over again4 ,and if a ceaseless repetition of the same dish--however well it may be cooked--palls upon the palate1 it is at least certain that it is equally burdensome to the stomach4 ,dr4 ,horace ,dobell well expresses this fact when he says that it is of the highest importance to avoid unnecessarily limiting the variety of food allowed to all persons1 but especially to those of poor appetites and troublesome digestions4 ,monotonous1 uninteresting meals depress the spirits and are subversive of appetite1 digestion1 and nutrition4 ,,cookery ,,as ,a ,,preventive ,,of ,,drunkenness4 ,plutarch tells us that ,themistocles laughing at his own son1 who got his mother1 and by his mother's means his father also1 to indulge him1 said to the boy that he had the most power of anyone in ,greece3 ,for the ,athenians command the rest of ,greece1 ,i command the ,athenians1 your mother commands me1 and you command your mother4 ,in the same way it is easy to make a defective system of education responsible for much of the existing drunkenness4 ,first of all we have a scheme of education which fails to provide instruction in a girl's domestic duties2 then we have the wife who undertakes the task for which she has never been properly trained2 next1 instead of well-cooked and very much varied meals1 we have a conspicuous and a disastrous failure2 and finally1 we have the bread-winner driven to the public-house--and happiness has left that home for ever4 ,but this is an old story1 yet1 unfortunately1 it is a true one2 and it will continue to be true until a clearer perception of what a domestic training should be is more universally recognised4 ,i am sure that ,i do not exaggerate when ,i say that millions of our ,english-speaking race are living this life without the slightest glimmering of what domestic content might be theirs4 ,surely the word home for the artisan should signify something more than a place where he is badly fed4 ,still1 it is a solemn fact that no more concrete definition of the word has ever been forthcoming4 ,now1 such a state of affairs cannot be excused on the score of expense1 for the crowning triumph of good ,cookery is its very cheapness4 ,it has already been mentioned that the late ,sir ,j4 ,risdon ,bennett did not think it beneath his dignity to write a prefatory note to a ,cookery ,book4 ,he has also pointed out that ,cookery is a subject which deserves more attention at the hands of those who have the welfare of temperance at heart4 ,he believed that a knowledge of wholesome ,cookery would do much to make home happy2 to keep the men away from dissipation and intemperance2 and to make the children healthy and cheerful4 ,the same idea is expressed by ,sylvester1 who remarked that ,cookery should be most popular1 because every individual human being is directly interested in its success4 ,as he says1 the real comfort of the majority of men is sought for in their own homes1 and every effort should be made to increase domestic happiness by inducing them to remain at home4 ,and long1 long ago a quaint old book1 ,markham's ,english ,housewife1 published in #afcg1 contained the idea in a nutshell1 as the following quotation will show3 ,to speak1 then1 of the knowledges which belong to our ,english housewife1 ,i hold the most principal to be a perfect skill in ,cookery4 ,she that is utterly ignorant therein1 may not1 by the laws of strict justice1 challenge the freedom of marriage--because1 indeed1 shee can perform but half her vow--shee may love and obey1 but shee cannot cherish and keepe her husband4 ,opinions such as these are based on the soundest common sense1 indeed no one could honestly oppose them4 ,but it powerfully adds to their weight to find them thoroughly endorsed by the representative medical authority of ,,the ,,british ,,medical ,,journal and ,,the ,,lancet2 the former has from time to time insisted upon the self-same truths1 and strenuously urged their practical adoption4 ,these contributions are somewhat too lengthy for complete reproduction1 but the views expressed may be briefly referred to4 ,it was maintained that ,english people have much to learn from the ,french methods of ,cookery2 that these are not merely tasteful and appetising1 but that they are extremely economical2 that materials which the ,english housewife throws away as useless1 her ,french sister skilfully converts into toothsome and nutritious food2 and that it is only an increased knowledge of ,cookery which the poor need to render life more agreeable4 ,,the ,,lancet also1 in an admirable article on ,culinary ,civilisation1 spoke of the need of women becoming acquainted with the modes of concocting palatable food1 if they wished to maintain their domestic power4 ,it was further pointed out that if the husband was to be prevented from neglecting his family1 the wife must see that he had well-cooked food at home4 ,and lastly1 it was tellingly set forth that when women had fully mastered this lesson a step in civilisation would have been gained1 which would show in increased health1 increased prosperity1 and happier domestic hearths4 ,but ,i cannot conclude this portion without a special reference to some remarks by ,madame ,emilie ,lebour-,fawssett4 ,they occur in her most admirable book ,,french ,,cookery ,,for ,,ladies1 and are so sensible that they should never be forgotten4 ,i like1 says ,madame1 to place before my husband1 who has been hard at work all day long1 a nice tempting dinner1 very much varied and well cooked2 and ,i cannot1 repeat it too often1 it is one of the strongest ties of home life1 and ,i am sure many a man in the day1 when he is most busy1 unconsciously smiles inwardly at the prospect of the nice little dinner awaiting him at home1 when his hard day's work is over4 ,small1 dainty1 well-made dishes gratify your husband's appetite1 help to keep him healthy1 prepare him a good digestion for his old age1 and save your purse4 ,in another part of the book1 a little farther on1 she remarks3---,one of my chief objects also is to teach the great mass of people to make better use of the numberless good things there are to be obtained1 and thereby keep their husbands away from the public-house4 ,it stands to reason that if a man who has worked all day comes home and finds nothing warm and appetising prepared for him1 he will go away quicker than he came1 and spend at the first hotel the money he would otherwise have gladly spent on his family if his wife had tried and knew how to make him comfortable2 and1 there is no denying it1 the greatest comforts a man can have after a day's work1 be it manual labour or brain work1 are a good meal and a quiet corner in which to smoke his pipe or cigar4 ,,cookery ,,in ,,the ,,formation ,,of ,,character4 ,yet1 valuable as it may be in all these foregoing respects1 ,cookery has something more to recommend it1 which gives it precedence before everything else in education2 and though this is saying a great deal1 ,i shall endeavour to demonstrate that it is perfectly true4 ,i have already shown that ,cookery is of superlative benefit1 both in ensuring health and in acting as a preventive against habits of intemperance4 ,but it is as a medium for training that ,cookery is at its very best2 for it is in reality an art2 indeed1 it is a master art4 ,at the same time1 also1 it is a science--the science of applied chemistry4 ,there are no other elements of education which thus blend within themselves these two factors--the practical and the scientific4 ,to commence with1 ,cookery requires accuracy4 ,the instructions given with any recipe are sufficient to show this4 ,they tell you to take so much of each thing1 to proceed in a certain way1 and even what time to take in the cooking4 ,it also calls for attention to detail4 ,carelessness in ,cookery is just one of the rocks on which disaster occurs4 ,an ,english duke1 an ambassador at ,paris1 was desirous of giving the ,,corps ,,diplomatique the treat of a real ,english plum pudding4 ,the fullest directions were given to his chef--all1 indeed1 with the exception of mentioning the pudding-cloth4 ,when the eventful time arrived for its appearance1 to his dismay several stately cooks appeared1 each carrying a tureen of dark-looking fluid4 ,the omission of the pudding-cloth was fatal4 ,cleanliness is another of the cardinal virtues of ,cookery4 ,the very thought of anything else would be repulsive4 ,by the way1 that fine old saying1 ,cleanliness is next to ,godliness1 does not come from the ,scriptures1 as many suppose1 but from one of ,john ,wesley's sermons4 ,cookery also exacts punctuality--for have we not ,brillat-,savarin's dictum that of all the qualities necessary for a cook the most indispensable is punctuality8 ,if any important matter connected with the process of ,cookery be not attended to at the exact moment it is required1 nothing can afterwards rectify it4 ,a little delay in attending to this thing1 or a little delay in attending to that thing1 and whatever is being cooked is irretrievably spoiled4 ,and1 moreover1 it is not to be forgotten that cookery is of signal benefit in inculcating the advantages of a wise economy4 ,with proper ,cookery nothing should be allowed to go to waste1 nothing should be thrown away1 unless it be absolutely useless4 ,there should be good housewifery2 everything1 even the veriest scraps1 may be turned to the best account4 ,the stock pot will absorb many nutritious and wholesome odds and ends1 which would otherwise be consigned to the dirt-box4 ,the loss that actually takes place in many kitchens is without the shadow of an excuse2 sometimes the best part of a cold joint is deliberately cast aside4 ,a ,,national ,,plea ,,on ,,behalf ,,of ,,australian ,,school ,,cookery4 ,but there is still something else to be urged on behalf of ,cookery1 and of ,school ,cookery in particular1 which places it immeasurably before even the preceding4 ,i have claimed for ,cookery that it develops certain habits which are of the greatest importance in the formation of character2 yet1 as ,i have just remarked1 there is something more than this1 which renders it of priceless value1 and of what this consists ,i shall do my best to explain4 ,every one who has the welfare of ,australia and of ,australians at heart must feel no little concern at that growing indifference to domestic life which is so much the characteristic of our girls4 ,once a girl has left school1 she seems to think that the household is no longer any place for her2 she consequently ceases to take any interest whatever in the many matters which constitute the management of a home3 her one aim is to get into business1 as it is called4 ,it appears to be immaterial whether she is to be a dressmaker1 or milliner1 or saleswoman1 or employee in a large establishment1 as long as she gets away from home4 ,now1 all this is greatly to be deplored1 and has a disastrous influence over the whole of ,australian family life1 because it must happen that many of these girls eventually marry1 and commence their new existence under the most unfavourable conditions4 ,in the first place1 they are totally ignorant of everything connected with household management1 and what is far worse1 they have almost a contempt for it4 ,what the result is1 in too many cases1 ,i have already dwelt upon1-- either the husband and the family suffer from the effects of bad ,cookery1 and unhappiness and ill-health follow1 or else the bread-winner flies to alcohol in order to forget his troubles4 ,it must not be imagined however1 that this condition of affairs is altogether beyond remedy1 and that our ,australian girls are hopeless in this respect4 ,no1 on the contrary1 those of whom ,i have just spoken are as attractive and fascinating--as ,australian girls always are2 but it is a thousand pities that they do not possess a greater appreciation of the importance of home life4 ,still1 after all1 may it not be that our educational system is defective in that it does not implant--all through a girl's school life--a love of ,cookery1 and of domestic management8 ,it is during this impressionable age that all these truths can be so well indoctrinated4 ,indeed1 ,i am thoroughly convinced that one of the greatest defects in the superlatively scientific education of to-day1 as far as the girls are concerned1 is the neglect which these matters receive2 for it stands to reason that if they are passed by during school life1 they are never learnt at all4 ,and1 further1 it should not be forgotten that a cook is always able to command high wages4 ,that is a fact which should not be lost sight of1 although perhaps it is some what mercenary4 ,a cook need never fear but that she will always be in constant employment4 ,ah1 yes6 ,max ,o',rell got in a home thrust when he declared that the average woman who finds herself alone in the world could earn her living if she could cook-- but she can't4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,australian ,,food ,,habits ,,and ,,their ,,faults4--,a ,,plea ,,for ,,their ,,improvement4 ,it is somewhat curious that1 among the many questions which pertain to the national life of ,australia1 little1 if any1 attention has been directed to the influences which the daily food and habitual dietary exercise upon the present1 and in what way they will affect the future population4 ,and yet it must be apparent that the life of a nation is moulded in no small degree by its daily fare1 by its general food habits1 and still more by the fact of its living in conformity with1 or in direct opposition to1 its climatic requirements4 ,it is evident that the natural dietary of the earth's inhabitants is controlled largely by the particular region in which they dwell4 ,thus the ,hindoos1 and contiguous ,eastern nations1 subsist mainly upon the cereals1 in which rice plays so prominent a part4 ,the ,greenlander's fare1 on the contrary1 consists almost entirely of oils and fats2 indeed1 on this point ,sir ,anthony ,carlisle relates the following anecdote3--,the most ,northern races of mankind1 says he1 were found to be unacquainted with the taste of sweets1 and their infants made wry faces and sputtered out sugar with disgust1 but the little urchins grinned with ecstasy at the sight of a bit of whale's blubber4 ,in the same way the ,arab is a date-eater and the ,kaffir is a milk consumer4 ,these facts being borne in mind1 it will be desirable to ascertain whether the usual food habits obtaining in ,australia are those which the nature of the climate renders advisable4 ,if1 as a result of such an inquiry1 it be demonstrated that the dietary customs followed here are not in harmony with the climatic conditions1 it would1 perhaps1 be well to suggest in what direction amendment should take place4 ,a reference to the isothermal lines in any physical atlas will be of considerable value in assisting us to the elucidation of the subject under consideration4 ,these are certain lines drawn over a chart of the earth's surface1 on which are located those cities and regions where the mean annual temperature is the same4 ,thus the mean annual temperature of ,sydney is #fb4i degrees2 the corresponding line in the northern world runs through ,naples and ,lisbon in ,europe1 and a little below the central portion of the ,united ,states and ,california in ,america4 ,at ,melbourne the average yearly temperature is #eg4f degrees1 corresponding in the old world to a temperature met with at ,marseilles1 ,bordeaux1 the south of ,france and ,northern ,italy1 while across the ,atlantic a somewhat similar climate obtains about the middle of the ,united ,states4 ,the mean annual temperature at ,brisbane is #fg4gd degrees2 this is the same as that of ,algiers and the southern shores of the ,mediterranean generally1 and coincides with that met with in ,new ,orleans and the southern states of ,north ,america4 ,at ,adelaide the average yearly temperature is #fc4a degrees1 and the climate is considered to greatly resemble that of ,sicily4 ,now1 no other mode that ,i am aware of1 such as this juxtaposition of localities where the mean annual temperature is the same1 will afford such a convenient way of contrasting the mode of living which is practised in ,australia with that which is followed by the inhabitants of the regions referred to in ,europe4 ,the cardinal difference1 and one which stands out in bold relief1 is that the ,australian food habits are characterised by a preponderancy of meat diet and a corresponding neglect of vegetable products4 ,on the other hand1 the dietary of ,southern ,europe is in rational harmony with its climate1 and there is not that insensate insistence of a highly nitrogenous animal fare to the exclusion of all else4 ,the striking features1 then1 in connection with the ,australian dietary are this extraordinary consumption of meat and the faith which is presumably attached to its food value4 ,it is no exaggeration to say that the vast majority of our people believe implicitly in the necessity for meat at their three daily mealy1 and not only is this the case in the cooler parts of the year1 but it is practised universally during the height of the summer1 without being modified in the slightest degree4 ,thus the student of ethnography is presented with the somewhat curious anomaly of a people living in a summer temperature of #gj degrees or #hj degrees in the shade1 eating more meat than do the bulk of the inhabitants of ,great ,britain and ,ireland 7with their ice and snow7 during their winter months4 ,it is one of the characteristics of the ,anglo-,saxon race1 however1 this inability to appreciate the necessity of conforming to new climatic conditions in which their lot may be cast4 ,it will be the same1 too1 when the ,british restaurant-keeper begins business in ,equatorial ,africa4 ,for an absolute certainty his bill-of-fare for the delectation of the unfortunate colonist will consist of roast beef1 ,yorkshire pudding1 plum pudding1 and the old familiar throng4 ,whether mine host has to consult the taste of his client1 or whether the latter has simply to accept what is proffered1 is not absolutely decided2 probably they are both imbued with a belief in the necessity of solid fare1 regarding it as a solemn truth beyond all possibility of cavil4 ,this abuse of flesh food in a climate like ,australia would be serious enough under any circumstances1 but it is intensified and aggravated by the direct unoriginality in dealing with meat4 ,is it not a fact that there is no attempt whatever made to break through the conventional chain of joints1 roasted or boiled1 and the inevitable grill or fry8 ,in how many houses does the breakfast ever consist of anything but the ubiquitous chops1 steaks1 or sausages8 indeed1 one might almost term them the faith1 hope1 and charity of domestic life4 ,i remember reading some little time ago that if a map of the world were made in which lands of utter darkness were coloured black like the coalfields in an atlas of physical geography1 certain races would be signalised by their opaqueness4 ,if such a map were ever compiled1 ,australia would of necessity be characterised by blackness2 such a blackness1 indeed1 that jet itself would be as snowy white beside it4 ,but why should this lamentable state of things be said of ,australians1 who claim to be progressive in their ideas and advanced in their views1 usages1 and customs8 ,in conjunction with this dietetic view of the matter1 one of the objects ,i have in writing is to direct attention to the great neglect there is of vegetables1 especially those of the more unknown varieties1 as an agreeable1 desirable1 palatable1 and salutary element in the ,australian food life4 ,one need not be a vegetarian to properly appreciate the valuable properties of vegetables1 and most people will fare better and feel the benefit of a modification of their customary dietary if they decrease the amount of meat they indulge in and proportionately increase their vegetable allowance4 ,now1 there are many vegetables besides those ordinarily in use which might be easily cultivated1 and serve to form a pleasing variety at table4 ,once the demand arises for kinds other than those usually grown1 the inducement for market-gardeners to supply them would be no longer wanting4 ,a reference to the catalogues furnished by the seedsmen and plant-merchants of the different ,australian metropolitan cities will show that special attention is called to many of these vegetables1 and yet ,i am informed that1 although they are continually inserted in the new issues as they appear from time to time1 no notice seems to be taken of them whatever4 ,i propose1 therefore1 briefly to describe some of these comparatively unknown vegetables1 and to point out their merits and their claims for recognition4 ,the globe artichoke might be more frequently grown1 as it is really a good vegetable and easily cooked4 ,it constitutes the flower head of the ,,cynara ,,scolymus 7one of the thistle family71 and is gathered before the flowers expand4 ,the ends of the flower scales attached to the disc1 and the central disc itself1 are the parts that are eaten1 and they constitute a delicately flavoured vegetable4 ,it is extensively cultivated in ,california1 and is there to be met with in nearly all hotels and restaurants4 ,another thing in its favour is that it is peculiarly one of the vegetables which diabetics may indulge in without fear4 ,it does well in the cooler parts of ,australia1 and should certainly be more generally grown4 ,the ,jerusalem artichoke is not to be confused with the preceding1 as it belongs to a different vegetable genus altogether4 ,it is a species of sunflower1 as its name denotes1 the prefix ,jerusalem being in reality a corruption of the ,italian word ,,girasole1 a sunflower4 ,it resembles the potato in that it is a tuberous-rooted vegetable1 and grows readily enough--in fact1 perhaps it grows too readily1 for once it takes possession of the soil it is difficult to eradicate it4 ,the ,jerusalem artichoke1 however1 is comparatively common here1 and when cooked properly it is a most delightful vegetable1 although it may not be sufficiently appreciated at first4 ,it often happens that these artichokes are of a bad colour1 and too crisp when brought to table4 ,this is easily prevented1 however1 by washing and paring them like potatoes and then placing them in a bowl of clear water1 to which a few drops of fresh lemon juice have been added4 ,when boiled with sufficient water to just cover them1 and a liberal allowance of salt1 for #bj min4 to #dj min41 they come out a snowy white and quite tender4 ,they are especially delicious when served up with melted butter and egg sauce4 ,asparagus4--,although this delicate and luscious vegetable is of the easiest culture1 and grows readily along the coast1 yet to our shame be it said that it is usually too much of a luxury for ordinary mortal1 to afford4 ,now1 it is for the most part such a general favourite that one may well ask why it is not more cultivated4 ,the demand for it in ,america is so great1 and it yields such a good return1 that some growers1 make #ajj percent2 and upwards yearly profit for each acre4 ,is it not a severe reflection upon our market gardeners1 to find that the imported preserved varieties of asparagus are so esculent that the very stalks1 are as1 luscious as the heads of the vegetable8 ,in its fresh state it should be eaten as soon after cutting as possible1 and1 like the globe artichoke1 is readily allowable to diabetics4 ,it is somewhat curious1 too1 that the asparagus1 and the globe artichoke are the only vegetables which the ,british race eat as1 a single dish4 ,brussels sprouts are the most delicate of all the borecoles1 and it is a thousand pities that this delightful vegetable is not more often to be met with4 ,these miniature1 cabbages1 however1 require some little care in their rearing1 and hence amateurs often fail to reach perfection in their cultivation4 ,they may be boiled like cabbage1 in abundance of water and a little salt for #ae minutes1 then drained1 dried1 and finally tossed in butter with a little pepper and nutmeg4 ,they do well enough1 as does the borecole or kale itself1 in all the cooler parts of ,australia4 ,the cardoon1 like the globe artichoke1 belongs to the thistle family1 yet it is1 more hardy and robust than the latter4 ,it is readily grown1 particularly in the cooler districts1 and1 like many other of the more unknown vegetables1 is too much neglected4 ,its leaf-stalks should be at least an inch and a half thick before they are ready for cutting4 ,they are then blanched1 and when cooked recall somewhat the flavour of the globe artichoke4 ,these tender leaf-stalks are used in soups and salads1 and it may be boiled also in a similar manner to sea-kale1 in which latter form it is especially palatable4 ,the celeriac or turnip-rooted celery is a very choice vegetable1 and is much cultivated on the ,continent4 ,its nutty root is not at all unlike the solid root portion of common celery in taste1 which by many is considered superior in flavour to the other parts of the latter plant4 ,the celeriac is greatly esteemed1 and is known as the ,,celeri-,,rave ,,by the ,french1 and as the knoll-selerie by the ,germans4 ,the latter1 indeed1 are so fond of it that they call barely talk of it without moist eyes and watery mouths4 ,it is hardier than celery1 and possesses an advantage in that it can be taken up and stored similarly to carrots and beets4 ,the celerific may be boiled as a table vegetable or used for flavouring soups1 or it may be sliced for salads4 ,it does well in all the cooler parts1 and might be cultivated with benefit1 mingled with gratitude4 ,the egg plant1 or aubergine1 does so exceedingly well1 and can be so highly recommended1 that one may well wonder why it is never seen4 ,it is a native of ,africa and tropical ,america1 and is very popular both in the ,east and ,west ,indies4 ,it is cultivated also a great deal in the ,united ,states1 where it is greatly appreciated for culinary use4 ,in ,,aubergines ,,farcies1 a favourite dish1 they are cut in hakes1 the centres chopped and put back into the skins with oil1 c4 ,they are then sprinkled with breadcrumbs1 and browned4 ,it is easily grown1 and it seems unaccountable why it should be passed over4 ,the kohl rabi1 or turnip-rooted cabbage1 is another nutritious vegetable which has inexplicably never been received into public favour4 ,its delicate flavour should ensure for it a well-established position with those who are fond of good vegetables1 as it is more tender and more savoury than either turnip or cabbage1 and is not at all unlike cauliflower in taste4 ,for table purposes it should be only about two-thirds grown1 for if allowed to go to full size the outside skin becomes tough and hard4 ,it is another of those vegetables which are so highly prized on the ,continent1 and it is already an acknowledged favourite in ,america4 ,it does well in all the cooler localities1 and gives a larger yield than turnips4 ,the salsify1 or vegetable oyster1 is a typical example of a most unaccountably slighted vegetable with us1 and yet it is highly appreciated on the continent and in the ,united ,states4 ,the root is long and tapering1 becoming fleshy and tender by cultivation1 and with a whitish1 milky-like juice4 ,it has a rich flavour1 not at all unlike that of cooked oysters1 whence it derives its value4 ,in preparing salsify for table the darkish outside skin requires to be lightly scraped off1 and then it should be steeped for a while in cold water so as to remove any slight bitterness it may possess4 ,like parsnips1 when cooked it requires to be boiled slowly1 in the smallest possible quantity of water1 until it is almost ready to melt4 ,if boiled fast1 in abundance of water1 the savour of both parsnips and salsify is to a great extent dispersed and lost beyond recall4 ,one of the most approved methods of cooking salsify roots is to slowly boil them to tenderness in the smallest possible quantity of milk1 and then to mash and fry them in butter1 with salt and pepper4 ,cold boiled salsify1 with the addition of some chopped herbs1 tarragon vinegar1 and salad oil1 makes an exceedingly good salad4 ,the salsify does well in all the cooler regions1 and1 moreover1 it is easily grown4 ,scorzonera4--,this ,spanish plant is very similar to salsify1 and requires the same kind of treatment2 but1 being a stronger grower1 requires more room in its culture4 ,it may be served in soups or treated like salsify4 ,the outside leaves should be removed before the vegetable is cooked4 ,the blanched leaves also are highly esteemed on the ,continent1 and are used for salad purposes4 ,it grows well in all the cooler parts of ,australia1 and might certainly be introduced for the public benefit4 ,sea kale is one of those vegetables which are brought to perfection in ,england1 so much so that ,careme1 that mighty ,,chef1 when he came across them in ,london went into ecstasies4 ,he described them as resembling branches of celery1 which should be served like asparagus1 with butter sauce1 after #bj minutes' boiling4 ,in some respects this is verily the most delicious of all vegetables1 and as it grows well here it should be largely cultivated1 yet it is almost unknown4 ,it is fit to rank with1 if not precede1 asparagus1 and as a matter of fact it is far more profitable than the latter1 so that market gardeners would have something to gain by its introduction4 ,like the cabbage1 it was originally a maritime plant1 and has been brought to its present state of perfection by cultivation4 ,it requires to be thoroughly blanched by exclusion from light1 similarly to celery1 for when coloured at all it possesses an acrid taste4 ,of the many ways of sending it to table1 one of the best is to boil it and serve it on toast with a little melted butter4 ,it should be largely cultivated1 as it does well all along the coastal parts1 being1 as already mentioned1 a maritime plant4 ,sweet corn is deservedly a great favourite with those who know of its succulent flavour and nourishing properties4 ,unfortunately1 however1 it is with us only in the imported tins from ,america1 and therefore we can only conjecture how delicious it must be when fresh4 ,it is so commonly met with in the fresh form in ,america that it is found at nearly every dinner table4 ,large areas where land is not expensive are devoted to its growth1 and hundreds of acres are required annually for the ,new ,york markets alone4 ,it does splendidly in all parts of ,australia1 and for growing children it constitutes one of the most nutritious vegetables that can be well imagined4 ,on this latter account alone1 therefore1 it is really a matter for national regret that it is so improperly passed over4 ,one thing requires to be borne in mind1 and it is that the cobs of ordinary ,indian corn which are seen in so many country districts must not be confused with this sweet corn1 as the latter is entirely different4 ,these nutritious1 although somewhat unknown vegetables1 therefore1 evidently deserve to be brought into prominent notice1 and once public interest is aroused1 their cultivation and ready sale will speedily follow4 ,at the same time it must not be forgotten that the tomato itself had a desperate struggle for reception into public favour when first introduced to us4 ,it actually trembled in the balance for no inconsiderable time1 and it was some years before its good qualities were universally recognised4 ,to-day1 however1 it occupies a very different position1 and takes rank as a luscious vegetable1 appreciated by thousands of people2 and besides1 it is of undoubted value in many disorders of the liver4 ,but now that the ,agricultural ,colleges are in full swing in the different colonies1 notably in ,new ,south ,wales1 ,victoria1 and ,south ,australia1 it is certain that the greatest possible good to the whole community will result4 ,their effect1 too1 in indirectly populating the agricultural areas of ,australia will materially aid the great work of decentralisation4 ,but apart altogether from this matter of the introduction of vegetables which have hitherto been overlooked is another which is hardly less important4 ,i refer to the crude cookery which is bestowed on the ordinary vegetables at present in daily use4 ,that there is sny monotony in an endless recurrence of boiled potatoes1 boiled cabbage1 boiled this and boiled that1 never seems to occur to the vast majority of people in this country1 who seem incapable of understanding that these different vegetables are worthy of being served in an infinite number of ways4 ,it will doubtless shock those who cling to this beliefs but the following remarks by ,dr4 ,mitchell1 an ,english physician practising in ,paris1 directed against his own countrymen be it understood1 are forcible enough3--,the plain boiled potato1 says he1 whatever else it may be1 is clearly a cattle food2 so for the matter of that are cabbages1 carrots1 turnips1 beans1 peas1 and almost every other vegetable when plain boiled4 ,none of them in that condition would be refused by a cow in fair appetite4 ,now1 there are so many appetising ways of preparing vegetables for table1 and at no additional expense1 that it is lamentable to find people offering no protest against this feeble exhibition of culinary skill4 ,why1 if there be nothing in the preparation of vegetables for the table beyond plain boiling1 it must be acknowledged that ,cookery has made mighty little progress since the time it first came into existence4 ,having seen1 then1 what faults exist and what improvements might be made1 it may well be asked how these latter are to be brought about1 or1 rather1 how can ,australians be induced to life in accordance with climatic requirements8 ,the answer ,is by no means easy4 ,it may be said1 in truth1 that till the great mass of the people recognise their food faults1 reform will not be of a national character4 ,as ,i have already said1 the acceptation of that valuable and nutritious vegetable fruit1 the tomato1 took years to accomplish4 ,in the same way1 ,i fear1 a universal recognition that excessive meat indulgence is a climatic error will take many decades before it is an article of national belief4 ,in the schools1 ,cookery must form an all-important part of a girl's education--not a superficial knowledge of the science1 but practical instruction1 thorough1 complete1 real4 ,the dietetic properties of meat1 vegetables1 of salad vegetables1 and of fruit1 from an ,australian standpoint1 should be so thoroughly inculcated that a proper conception of their respective food values should remain for a lifetime4 ,the prizes for proficiency and excellence in culinary matters1 too1 should be such as to render them worth the winning1 and serve as a stimulus for future exertions4 ,is it not strange that so far ingenuity1 universal approval1 or general consensus of opinions call it what you will1 has not up till the present given us an ,australian national dish8 ,although tea and damper instinctively arise in the mind when the matter is referred to1 yet ,i take it that we would all repel such an accusation if levelled against us4 ,does the ,australian1 moreover1 away from his native land perpetuate his patriotism by oft partaking of this pastoral fare8 ,certainly not4 ,well1 when this national dish is composed and formally approved of by the nation1 let us devoutly trust that it will be a ,,macedoine of vegetables1 or a vegetable curry1 or some well-concocted salad4 ,it is true that in one of the cookery books ,i have seen a dish of peaches1 dubbed ,,peches ,a ,l',,australienne4 ,it is a sort of compote of peaches1 but to the best of my belief it is simply entitled ,australian for the sake of giving it a name1 and for no other reason4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,australian ,,fish ,,and ,,oysters--,,and ,,their ,,food ,,value4 ,anyone looking backwards upon the history of ,australia cannot fail to be impressed by one peculiar feature1 which is the more distinctive1 too1 because it is in striking contrast with all else4 ,it is the more noteworthy also1 because it affects each individual inhabitant of this island continent1 and has a direct bearing on the daily life of every person is the community4 ,thus1 on the one hand1 while we are nearing a maximum of progress--or1 at any rate1 attaining to a high level of success--in political matters1 in commercial affairs1 and in athletic prowess1 yet1 on the other1 there is unfortunately an apathetic indifference in all that concerns our public and family food habits1 which after all constitute the national characteristics of any people4 ,it is true that we have gained the dignity of responsible government1 that our wool and frozen meat are entering the markets of the world1 and that in the athletic arena our fame is spread both far and wide4 ,yet it must be confessed that our national food-life has not conformed to climatic requirements in the slightest degree since the memorable day on which ,captain ,cook set foot on these shores4 ,as those on the ,endeavour lived then1 so live are now4 ,on the continent of ,europe it will be found that the manners and customs1 even of contiguous countries1 are as widely different as it is possible to imagine4 ,surely then1 it is1 to say the least of it1 curious to see the inhabitants of a semi-tropical country like ,australia living in wilful contradiction to their climatic necessities1 and eating the same kind of food as did their fathers in the old land1 with its dampness its coldness1 its ice1 and its snow4 ,yet1 notwithstanding the fact that reflections of this kind are interesting in the highest degree1 ,i propose to do no more than consider the matter exclusively from the standpoint of the subject heading of this chapter4 ,here1 again1 we are directly confronted with an inexplicable anomaly--,i refer to the want of enterprise shown in developing the deep-sea fisheries of ,australia4 ,now1 if the dwellers of this land had sprung from an entirely inland race1 this would not1 perhaps1 have been so difficult to understand2 but arising1 as we do1 from a stock the most maritime that the world has ever seen1 such a defect redounds not to our credit as inheritors of the old traditions4 ,at our present rate of fisheries development it will take centuries before we will be able to produce anything to even approach the ,international ,fisheries exhibition of the old country in #ahhc4 ,at that memorable exposition ,his ,royal ,highness the ,duke of ,edinburgh1 in the course of his conference paper1 gave expression to the following stirring words3--,from the earliest ages the inhabitants of the coast of the ,british ,islands have made the sea contribute to their food4 ,this pursuit has produced a race of men strong1 inured to hardship and exposure1 patient and persevering in their calling1 brave1 prompt1 and fall of resource in the face of danger2 intelligent and amenable to discipline1 from the daily habit of subordinating their own wills to that of anyone whom they know is placed in authority over them for the1 purpose of directing their labours and working with them for the common benefit2 accustomed to co-operate with others for the attainment of a certain end4 ,these qualities are not only exercised from early youth1 but are inherited and intensified from generation to generation4 ,the foundations of the great position which this kingdom has attained amongst the nations of the world must1 in some measure1 be attributed to our fishermen1 for they were our first sea-men2 and1 from small beginnings1 our seamen increased in number and in skill1 until the whole nation was leavened with that love of maritime adventure which has resulted in peopling the uttermost parts of the earth with our race1 and in establishing that empire upon which the sun never ceases to shine4 ,in earlier times our first maritime commerce must have been conducted by our fishermen1 who also manned our fighting navies4 ,the fisheries of the ,west of ,england were the nurseries of the sailors who enabled ,drake to circumnavigate the world1 and1 as he said1 to 'singe the ,king of ,spain's beard' on more than one memorable occasion4 ,,the ,,defectiveness ,,of ,,our ,,australian ,,fish ,,supply4 ,that fish should be1 comparatively speaking1 so scarce in ,australia can only be regarded in the light of a national calamity4 ,and not only is the supply deficient1 but what little there may be is so outrageously expensive that it is hopelessly beyond the reach of an ordinary purse4 ,it is so excessive in cost that it must almost be bracketed with poultry as a luxury only to be indulged in after lengthened periods4 ,i have been told1 when making inquiries on this point1 that the reason why fish is so dear is that this is not a fish-eating community1 and that consequently there is no demand for it4 ,but1 on the other hand1 ,i find that almost everyone ,i ask is really fond of fish1 and that they do not eat it simply because they cannot obtain it at a reasonable price1 and this undoubtedly is the true explanation4 ,but this same scarcity of fish has exercised other people besides myself1 for ,mr4 ,alexander ,oliver and many others have repeatedly drawn attention to the same deficiency4 ,it has been the primary origin of a ,board of ,fisheries1 it had brought forth ,parliamentary ,select ,committees1 and it has produced endless opinions and suggestions on the part of the public4 ,now1 ,i am quite willing to admit that there should be proper supervision over the working of the ,fisheries ,acts1 and that existing grievances should be rectified2 but1 with all due deference1 it seems to me that the finger has not been placed on the exact reason why failure occurs in our fish supply4 ,for ,i say this1 that you may do what you will to protect and supervise the shore and inland fisheries1 and you may even increase the yield from these sources to an encouraging extent1 but that till the deep-sea work is thoroughly taken up and properly developed there will be no cheap fish for ,australia4 ,it has been stated that if the deep-sea fisheries of the ,united ,kingdom fell through from any reason1 half-a-million of its inhabitants would be brought face to face with starvation4 ,and even these enormous figures include only the fisher-folk themselves1 and do not take into account the vast army of buyers1 curers1 dealers1 c41 who are dependent for their very existence upon the fishing industry4 ,take away the deep-sea fisheries from the old country1 and its whole fish supply would practically be at an end4 ,in the same way by the development of our ,australian deep-sea fisheries--and by the development of the deep-sea fisheries only--will it be possible1 in my humble opinion1 to increase the supply and cheapen the price of fish so that it will form part of the dietary in every dwelling4 ,there was an important select committee appointed by the ,victorian ,government1 a short time ago1 to inquire into the unsatisfactory condition of the fishing industry there4 ,it examined a great number of witnesses1 and its investigations extended over a large area4 ,amongst other things1 with a view of encouraging trawling operations1 it was suggested-- ,that a careful survey be made of the sea-bottom in the neighbourhood of our coasts and in ,bass' ,straits1 and the part suitable for trawling properly charted4 ,that a few sets of trawling apparatus of the most modern kind be procured by the ,government1 and ,applications invited from the fishermen at the various ports for permission to use these trawls1 free of charge1 under certain conditions for a limited period4 ,that the ,government fit out a steamer for the purpose of collecting and conveying to ,melbourne the fish obtained by the trawlers1 the steamer to be provided with cooling chambers1 c4 ,a number of different matters were also considered1 and1 in addition1 it was thought that1 in order to afford the general public greater facilities for obtaining fish1 the sale should not be confined to the metropolitan market4 ,it was1 therefore1 recommended that stalls in the various markets for the sale of fish by auction and otherwise should be opened in the leading suburbs of ,melbourne2 and that the corporation officer in the metropolitan market1 to whom the fish was consigned1 should regularly distribute to each of these suburban markets such a quantity of fish as experience would show the particular locality demanded4 ,to a certain extent all this is very satisfactory1 but unfortunately select committees have arrived at very similar conclusions over and over again4 ,all their recommendations have never yet been attended by any practical result1 and an adequate fish supply for ,australia appears to be as far off as ever4 ,,our ,,primitive ,,methods ,,of ,,fish ,,capture4 ,about the last place one would expect to come across a really fine piece of delicate humour is amongst official correspondence1 and yet in a formal letter from ,dr4 ,e4,p4 ,ramsay1 the ,curator of the ,australian ,museum1 to ,sir ,saul ,samuel the following passage occurs4 ,speaking of the ,new ,south ,wales exhibits at the ,international ,fisheries ,exhibition of ,london1 #ahhc1 the doctor proceeds to remark3--,people here1 imagining that we must have already developed extensive fisheries1 from the large collection of food fishes which we exhibit1 were not less surprised at our very limited materials and methods of capture than at the immense undeveloped wealth of our fisheries and fish fauna4 ,now1 ,i venture to say that a more unconsciously subtle insinuation at the crude methods of fish capture at present employed in our ,australian fisheries was never penned4 ,but what makes it so keenly effective is that it really hits the right nail on the head4 ,in giving evidence1 also1 before ,mr4 ,frank ,farnell's select committee of #ahhi1 ,dr4 ,ramsay1 upon being asked whether he thought our fishermen were abreast of the times with regard to appliances1 replied3--,they are about #bjj years behind the times4 ,to my mind another most convincing proof of the crude methods of fish capture employed in ,australian waters is to be found in the following4 ,in one of the ,fisheries ,reports it is gravely recorded that some very valuable gear ,,in ,,general ,,use amongst ,english1 ,norwegian1 and ,american fishermen1 had been destroyed in the ,garden ,palace fire1 but that the commissioners had been able to replace the otter-trawl and the beam-trawl4 ,the very fact that these appliances1 in active use at the present time by those in the foremost front of fishery enterprise1 are regarded in the light of curiosities in ,australia1 proves only too forcibly the correctness-of this opinion as to our primitive fishery appliances4 ,,the ,,beam-,,trawl ,,in ,,deep-,,sea ,,fishing4 ,it must not be imagined that trawling has never been advocated 7indeed1 it has even been experimentally practised71 for we have only to look through the various ,fisheries ,reports to find it repeatedly referred to2 unfortunately1 however1 these appeals so far have been without any practical results4 ,it will1 therefore1 be most instructive to refer briefly to the manner in which trawling and other modes of deep-sea fishing are carried out elsewhere2 and more particularly to bring under notice the enormous fish yield effected by them4 ,trawling1 or as it is more properly termed1 beam-trawling1 may be described as a method of deep-sea fishing1 in which a large bag net is towed along the ground so as to scoop1 as it were1 the fish into its receptacle4 ,there are at least several important stations in ,england for trawling2 some in the ,english ,channel2 some on the west1 and also on the ,welsh coast2 and others again 7amongst which is ,grimsby1 the largest fishing port in the world7 on the east coast on the ,north ,sea4 ,the trawling grounds of the latter are widely known1 and comprise the famous ,dogger ,bank1 which covers many hundreds of acres in area4 ,in its neighbourhood1 also1 there are numerous grounds such as the ,inner and ,outer ,well ,banks1 and there are others again nearer the ,english coast4 ,in addition to these there is the ,great ,silver ,pit1 discovered in a severe winter in #ahdc2 and it has been noticed that during the winter months the fish frequent the deeper water1 because the temperature is more equable than in shallow places4 ,the depth at which trawling is usually carried on varies from #bj to #cj fathoms2 never under any circumstances reaching #ej fathoms--the depth of the ,silver ,pit being from #ce to #de fathoms4 ,it was formerly urged against trawling that it was very destructive to the spawn1 at that time supposed to be lying on the sea bottom4 ,but the investigations of the late ,professor ,sars1 for the ,swedish ,government1 into the spawning habits of sea fish1 have conclusively revealed the fact that the ova of fish float on the surface of the water during the whole period of their development4 ,not only have the floating ova of the cod and haddock been reared1 but the common plaice1 the representative of the flatfish family1 including the brill1 the sole1 and the turbot1 is also known to spawn near the surface4 ,the eggs of the mackerel and the garfish have likewise been found floating1 and successfully hatched4 ,now1 no fish comes so close to the land as does the mackerel1 yet it is certain that it never makes its way into the estuaries and inlets till after spawning is finished--for that it spawns in the open sea is almost without a doubt4 ,these facts consequently do away altogether with the old statements concerning the destructive results of trawling4 ,the yield from the ,english trawleries alone is computed to be over #bjj1jjj tons annually1 and as the price for trawled fish at the ,billingsgate market averages #ab pounds per ton1 this represents about two and a half million pounds4 ,and1 in addition to these weighty figures1 ,professor ,huxley's words deserve to be well remembered1 for1 says he1 ,were trawl fishing stopped1 it would no longer be a case of high prices1 but that ninety-nine out of a hundred would hardly be able to afford any at all--herrings and a few other fish caught in the old way excepted4 ,indeed1 it is chiefly by this method of beam trawling that ,london and the interior are supplied with brill1 turbot1 and soles2 while by it thousands of tons of plaice1 haddock1 and other fish are brought within the reach even of the poorest4 ,,drift-,,net ,,and ,,other ,,deep-,,sea ,,fishing4 ,important though the beam-trawl may be1 there is another mode of deep-sea fishing which deserves to be well known by us in ,australia1 and which undoubtedly must come into general use before we can make any pretensions with regard to our fisheries4 ,i refer to that by means of drift-nets4 ,as the trawl is absolutely necessary1 on the one hand1 for capturing fish which frequent the bottom1 so1 on the other1 the drift-net is essential for those whose resort is the upper portion of the sea4 ,it is by this method alone that fish like the herring1 the mackerel1 and the pilchard--which may be termed surface fish--are caught in great quantities for food supply4 ,now1 in ,australia1 we have vast shoals of migratory fish visiting the coast at different periods of the year4 ,during the winter season enormous numbers of herrings come to these shores1 and are permitted to depart without any effort being made to capture them4 ,attention has been repeatedly called to this strange neglect in our fisheries1 for this herring is plentiful and is considered to surpass the famous ,scottish herring itself in flavour4 ,the mackerel1 too1 is to be met with annually1 generally about midwinter1 in immense shoals1 passing near the coast upwards in a northerly direction4 ,the sea mullet also makes its appearance towards the end of the summer months1 usually from ,april to ,june1 at the very time when it is in splendid condition and full of roe4 ,it is always observed to be proceeding towards the north in successive shoals and in great numbers4 ,many consider its richness and delicacy of flavour to be unequalled4 ,the driftnet system of fishing would be well adapted for it--if the meshes were larger than those for the herring--as when fully grown it is nearly two feet in length4 ,and lastly1 it will only be necessary to speak of the maray1 which is practically the ,english pilchard4 ,as with the fish just mentioned1 it is met with about midwinter1 passing up north in countless numbers1 sometimes covering miles of sea4 ,as the name implies1 drift-nets are not worked from the shore1 but they are shot1 as the saying is1 in the open sea1 and allowed to drift in whatever direction the tide may take them4 ,each drift-net will measure about #ahj feet in length by about #cj feet in depth4 ,they are secured to one another at the ends to form a long single line1 perhaps two miles in length4 ,by means of floats the nets hang perpendicularly in the water1 thus forming a long wall against which the fish strike1 and get enmeshed by being caught in the gill opening4 ,the nets are kept on the stretch by being shot in the face of the wind1 and the vessel from which they are paid out1 being to leeward of them1 drifts more rapidly than they do1 and consequently keeps them well extended4 ,my object1 however1 is not so much to enter into the details of these different methods of deep-sea fishing as to indicate their value and necessity1 if we are to have any fisheries worth speaking of4 ,i shall1 therefore1 do no more than briefly mention a few other modes of fish capture4 ,thus1 at the mouth of the ,thames1 thousands of tons of sprats are caught every winter by means of the large bag net1 known as the stow net4 ,in shape it is like an enormous funnel1 #cj feet high1 #bj feet wide1 and nearly #ahj feet in length4 ,by means of this contrivance the yield of sprats is so great that there is often some little difficulty in disposing of the catch4 ,the renowned whitebait1 too1 which are believed to be young herrings1 are caught by means of a similar1 though much smaller1 net4 ,besides these and various other forms of net fishing1 there are the methods in which the long line is employed4 ,for the capture of the cod1 both in ,newfoundland and in the ,north ,sea1 what is called the bultow is used4 ,this is a long line many hundreds of-feet in length1 and at every twelfth foot shorter and smaller cords called snoods are fastened4 ,these snoods are about #f feet long1 and have the hooks attached to their free ends4 ,the bultow is shot across the tide to prevent entanglement of the hooks1 and is laid in the afternoon4 ,at daybreak1 when the lines are hauled in1 as many as #djj of the large cod sometimes result from the catch4 ,there are various other appliances used for fish capture in different parts of the world1 such as the purse-seine net1 the trammel net1 the otter-trawl net1 c42 and1 as ,i have already pointed out1 the most scathing satire on our fisheries is to find all these necessary means for catching fish regarded as curiosities4 ,when they are no longer considered so1 it will be a fortunate time for ,australia4 ,,benefits ,,from ,,the ,,development ,,of ,,our ,,deep-,,sea ,,fisheries4 ,what would the proper development of our deep-sea fisheries mean8 ,in the first place1 it would lead to a more widely diffused use of fish as an article of diet1 within the easy reach of all classes1 being thus of incalculable value from a health point of view4 ,next1 it would ensure employment to many hundreds1 and eventually to many thousands1 both directly and indirectly1 and as a natural consequence this would bring about the creation of a sturdy and desirable maritime element in our population4 ,and lastly1 it would yield a more than satisfactory return on the outlay invested4 ,at the present time only the veriest few of our metropolitan population are able to afford the luxury of fish1 and people in the country towns hardly see it at all4 ,so1 too1 we are casting about for this plan and for that plan to lessen a growing difficulty in the ,australian metropolitan centres4 ,there are village settlements 7which certainly deserve to be successful71 and other proposals made to relieve a surplus population1 but yet no one has suggested the sea as a means of remedying this congestion4 ,and not only would the fisheries confer upon its followers a healthy calling1 but they would raise a vigorous stock of which ,australia might well be proud4 ,in addition to all this1 a proper development of our deep-sea fisheries would assuredly open up a new avenue for investment4 ,is it not amazing that men will risk all they have in mines which are not even real1 and which exist1 only on paper8 ,and besides this1 in the most genuine mine that was ever worked there is at least a costly outlay for production1 for crushing1 or for smelting1 before the metal sees the light of day2 but in the sea the catch is ready for the market1 and only requires the bringing to land4 ,this matter1 therefore1 must be taken up earnestly1 and there must be a determination to succeed4 ,in the first place1 and before all else in the deep-sea fisheries1 ,i maintain that a proper and systematic search for trawling grounds is absolutely essential4 ,till this is done he cannot for a moment pretend that we have endeavoured to foster them in any way4 ,all the elaboration of your proposed ,fisheries ,acts1 and all the details connected with the working of what may be called shore fishing1 sink into nothingness when compared with the results which would follow the working of our deep-sea fisheries4 ,i have already used the argument before1 and do so again1 and it is this3 that if you were to take away from the old country her deep-sea fisheries1 she would be practically without any fish supply4 ,apparently it is imagined1 too1 that unless trawling grounds be discovered in the vicinity of ,sydney or ,melbourne1 all efforts will be useless4 ,but it will only be necessary to refer to the deep-sea fisheries elsewhere to at once set this objection aside4 ,some of the great trawling grounds in the ,north ,sea are at such a distance from port that it would be quite impossible for any vessel to bring its own catch to market for disposal1 for the fish would be utterly spoiled before it could be done4 ,but the larger trawling boats go on cruises extending over weeks1 and are constantly visited on the grounds by what are called carriers1 i4e4 steamers1 who run their freights directly into market4 ,the same thing is practised by the ,dutch vessels1 who fish in the neighbourhood of the ,shetland ,islands for weeks together4 ,in the same way carrier vessels attend upon their fishing fleets1 and carry off the take immediately to ,holland4 ,being in possession of these facts1 therefore1 we must not be induced to believe that deep-sea fishing is not possible1 simply because suitable grounds for trawling1 c41 may not be actually within coo-ee of the ,australian metropolitan centres4 ,,fish ,,markets ,,of ,,sydney ,,and ,,melbourne4 ,there are one or two matters in connection with this subject which deserve having attention called to them4 ,in the first place the method adopted in our ,woolloomooloo ,fish ,market of placing the fish in little heaps on the floor itself1 when put out for sale1 is not satisfactory4 ,in the ,redfern ,fish ,market they are placed in small divisions or receptacles--each lot by itself--and raised above the floor1 where they are protected from injury4 ,in the new ,melbourne ,fish ,markets1 there are elevated platforms for the fish1 and they are thus quite above the cemented floor4 ,not only are they prevented from being damaged1 but it seems to me that the buyers have a better chance of seeing the fish when it is raised a little distance above their feet4 ,the size of the fish lots for sale in the ,sydney and ,melbourne ,fish ,markets varies1 and this opens up a somewhat debatable point4 with us the lots are comparatively small1 both at the ,woolloomooloo and at the ,redfern ,market2 while at ,melbourne1 on the other hand1 the lots are much larger4 ,when the lots are small it gives private buyers a chance of purchasing 7but how many private buyers are there before breakfast871 and is said in this way to raise the price for the dealers4 ,but with the larger lots the latter are said to be able to buy to more advantage1 and thus supply the public with cheaper fish4 ,to say which is the better of the two plans is very much like being asked to solve the query in the story of ,the ,lady or the ,tiger4 ,but before leaving this matter ,i should like to refer briefly to the new markets in ,flinders ,street1 ,melbourne4 ,they are called the ,city of ,melbourne ,meat1 ,fish1 and ,farm ,produce ,markets1 and are most extensive in area4 ,the viaduct which connects the two railway systems of ,victoria pierces the very centre of these new markets4 ,they are replete with every modern appliance for the storage and disposal of the food supply of a large city4 ,there are numerous chambers for the frozen meat1 and by means of what is called a lock1 a whole train can be received into a long covered gallery4 ,the two gates are then closed at either end1 and the meat is thus received directly into the freezing chambers1 without the slightest loss of any cold air4 ,the fish and game are treated exactly in the same way1 except that the receiving and delivery locks are not quite so large as in the former case4 ,still1 there is just the same facility for their reception into the freezing chambers set apart for the purpose4 ,the whole arrangements of these new fish markets are very perfect1 and leave nothing to be desired4 ,,the ,,middleman ,,controversy4 ,this is one of the topics which is continually cropping up in connection with the fishing industry in ,australia4 ,it is noteworthy1 too1 that the middleman in some shape or form appears to be part of the system of fish selling in every part of the world4 ,at ,billingsgate1 where they are termed bummarees1 it is stated that they fulfil a useful office in that they act as distributors to the small costermongers1 who could hardly get along without them4 ,the bummarees watch the market and speculate accordingly1 and it must be urged for them that they run great risks from the unexpected arrival of a large amount of fish with a consequent glut in the market4 ,but the bummarees pure and simple are comparatively few4 ,their ranks1 however1 are swelled in the following way3 ,a salesman1 having disposed of his own fish1 will bummaree for the sake of the possible profit1 or a fishmonger1 having purchased a double supply for a cheaper price1 will bummaree half his purchase4 ,in ,france the procedure is different4 ,first of all there is an agent termed an ,,ecoreur1 deputed by various persons and armed with purchasing power1 who is ready to buy the fisherman's catch at once4 ,this simplifies matters wonderfully for the fisherman1 who gets ready money and has no further bother4 ,next1 from the ,,ecoreur the fish is bought by the ,,moreyeur1 or trader1 who despatches it to ,paris and the other large cities4 ,thus1 so far1 the fish1 after leaving the fisherman1 has passed through two hands1 those of the ecoreur1 and those of the ,,moreyeur4 ,after this it has to face a most unjust tax--the ,,octroi--by which all provisions are specially taxed before entering the barriers of any ,french city or town4 ,hence the initiated1 when travelling in ,france1 often reside on the outskirts of a town1 just outside the barrier1 where the cost of living is reduced by one-third4 ,on arriving at the markets the fish is publicly disposed of by the ,,facteurs ,a ,,la ,,criee1 or auctioneers1 who of course are paid for their trouble4 ,lastly1 it is bought for sale to the public by the ,,poissarde1 or fishwife4 ,and thus we see from the time of leaving the water till finally it reaches the unfortunate public the fish has passed through no less than six levies1 that by the fisherman1 the agent1 the trader1 the ,,octroi 7,i4,e4 the city toll or town due71 the auctioneer1 and1 finally1 that by the fishwife or costermonger4 ,having thus explained the system pursued in ,england and in ,france respectively1 it will be interesting to refer briefly to the different methods with regard to the disposal of fish practised in the ,woolloomooloo1 the ,redfern1 and the ,melbourne ,fish ,markets4 ,at the former1 the sales are conducted by ,mr4 ,richard ,seymour1 the inspector and auctioneer of the fish market--with other auctioneers--who act directly from the ,sydney ,municipal ,council2 the ,redfern markets are conducted by the ,messrs4 ,hudson2 while in ,melbourne there are licensed auctioneers1 who pay for the privilege4 ,but to return to our middleman1 upon whom the whole controversy centres4 ,indeed1 the discussion over him in ,melbourne1 not so long ago1 might be said to have reached to a white-heat phase4 ,but the4 premises on which the arguments were based were so hopelessly conflicting that it was impossible to logically settle the point4 ,it was claimed1 on the one hand1 that the price the fishermen received was cruelly small in comparison with that which the public had to pay4 ,on the other1 the contention was that the price paid to the fishermen was fairly satisfactory1 and that the public obtained comparatively cheap fish4 ,we have seen1 however1 what takes place in other parts of the world1 and1 indeed1 every one must admit that there is a remarkable difference between the price which the fisherman gets and that which the public have to pay4 ,between these two extremes there is an inordinate disparity1 and the difficulty is to connect the two together--to bring to light the leakage--and to find out who is living both on the fisherman and the public at one and the same time4 ,on this point a recent ,fisheries ,report of ,victoria says3--,the solution of the very important question of providing a larger and cheaper fish supply for the masses rests mainly in the hands of the public4 ,the present high prices are maintained in virtue of a monopoly which can be only successfully combated by the initiation of a healthy trade competition or a more open fish market4 ,the fishermen1 under existing auspices1 reap but a small share of the retail produce of their takings1 such being further reduced by the high rates for transport they are called upon to pay4 ,in this last-named direction some relief might be afforded by the institution1 if necessary by ,act of ,parliament1 of a uniform tariff for the carriage of fish by road and rail throughout the colony4 ,,the ,,distribution ,,of ,,fish ,,to ,,the ,,public4 ,this brings me to one of the most difficult matters that has to be dealt with in considering the fish supply of any great city4 ,for you may have the most extensive deep-sea fisheries1 you may have the most rapid transit of the fish to town1 and you may have the most commodious fish markets2 but if you have no proper means of distributing the fish to the public the whole scheme falls to the ground4 ,at present the system both in ,sydney and in ,melbourne is to have the one principal fish market 7there are now two in ,sydney1 by the way71 from which all supplies for the public are derived4 ,of course it is perfectly competent for the latter to obtain their purchases in the early morning at the time when the sales are conducted2 but1 on the other hand1 the hour is exceedingly inconvenient1 and1 as a general rule1 the lots are too large for the private buyer4 ,hence the distribution of fish depends almost wholly upon the costermonger or basket-man1 who takes his fish round to the public4 ,the basket-man1 or costermonger1 or dealer--call him what you will--is an indispensable personage1 and what is more1 he fills a most useful office4 ,it is true that he is given to making strange outcries1 and that he is at times boisterous in speech4 ,yet1 notwithstanding these things1 he is a valuable member of society1 and personally ,i have a very great respect for him4 ,indeed1 ,i am certain that he is the food-bearer to many homes1 and people would otherwise be put to very great straits in obtaining their supplies4 ,our friend1 however1 has usually a long round to travel before he can make a good living1 and perhaps he is unable to cope with the requirements of his large district4 ,it is on account of these difficulties1 therefore1 that ,i recognise the value of the ,french method of distribution1 for besides the ,halles ,centrales1 or principal markets1 in ,paris1 there are in all nearly sixty local provision markets where it is possible to obtain1 under cover--in all weathers and at any time--whatever is required4 ,it is most desirable that something of this kind should be adopted in ,australia4 ,at least it is quite certain that every suburb should possess its own local market4 ,this need not attempt to rival the central depot1 but take rank as a local necessity4 ,,fishmongers ,,and ,,the ,,sale ,,of ,,fish4 ,this is naturally in intimate connection with the preceding1 and it is very advisable to refer to it in order to direct attention to one or two matters4 ,in the first place1 ,i shall commence by saying that both ,sydney and ,melbourne are lamentably deficient in fishmongers' shops similar to those which are so common in ,london4 ,as a matter of fact1 the show of fish exposed for sale is in striking contrast to that of meat4 ,for in ,sydney and suburbs alone the butchers' establishments run to the number of nearly #fjj1 while in the ,melbourne metropolis they even exceed this4 ,one has only to look through the directories of either ,sydney or ,melbourne1 under the heading of ,fishmongers1 to see how few their numbers are4 ,in our own city1 ,chinnery1 of ,hunter ,street1 and ,matterson1 of ,pitt ,street1 make a highly creditable show1 and in the southern capital1 ,jenkins1 of ,swanston ,street1 is well known for his excellent display4 ,otherwise the exhibition of fish for sale in either city is disappointing in the extreme1 and is nothing less than an abject confession of our inability to develop our own natural resources4 ,there was formerly in ,melbourne1 however1 a most admirable firm known as the ,mutual ,provedoring ,company1 whose premises were centrally situated near the main suburban railway station4 ,their show of fish was something to behold1 and ,i do not remember to have seen it surpassed1 even in the old country2 and1 in addition1 they hit upon a very excellent device--one so good1 in fact1 that it is well worthy of imitation4 ,that is to say they gave to every customer a capital fish cookery book1 written1 indeed1 by our own ,mrs4 ,h4 ,wicken4 ,it was a well-compiled production1 and contained a goodly number of practical and economical recipes1 having special regard to our ,australian fish4 ,in this way they did splendid work1 as by means of the ,,fish ,,dainties 7the title of the book7 they popularised the use of fish4 ,now1 it is greatly to be regretted that this firm no longer exists1 because if ever there was a venture which deserved support1 it was surely this4 ,but ,i am no pessimist in these matters1 and verily believe that before long this company1 or one similar1 will be in full swing again1 and that the public will thereby benefit in every conceivable way4 ,as far as ,sydney is concerned there is a different state of affairs1 and it is with genuine pleasure that ,i refer to the ,new ,south ,wales ,fresh ,food and ,ice ,company1 of whose enterprise and praiseworthy efforts ,i must express my sincere approbation4 ,it is a good thing for the whole community that their endeavours have been crowned with such marked success2 and ,i am very certain that1 without any exaggeration whatever1 one is justified in saying that this company have been of unmistakable service to their numerous customers1 and that by their distribution of fish throughout ,new ,south ,wales1 quite a number of invalids1 as well as of healthy people1 have every reason to be grateful4 ,their exhibition of fish in ,king ,street is at all times most satisfactory4 ,moreover1 schnapper and other prime fish are often sold there as low as #d;d4 per lb41 a price at which no one can complain4 ,,the ,,development ,,of ,,the ,,oyster4 ,attention has been thus far entirely directed to the topic of fish1 so that it now becomes necessary to turn to that of oysters4 ,it will be found1 however1 that the actual state of affairs in connection with our oyster fisheries is not at all inspiriting4 ,but before entering upon this matter it will perhaps lead to a better understanding of the whole question if some preliminary remarks are made upon the subject-heading4 ,in doing so it will be most desirable to have recourse to an account given1 not so long ago1 by ,professor ,huxley--at that time ,inspector of ,fisheries--since he speaks with the weight of authority4 ,referring to the oysters in the old country1 he says that during the summer and autumn months1 from about ,may to ,september1 according to varying circumstances1 the oysters pass into a peculiar condition known to the fishermen under the name of sick4 ,in this state the greater number contain a whitish substance1 consisting of numberless granules held together by a sort of slime4 ,the whole is known as white spat1 and the numberless granules are really the oyster eggs4 ,slowly and slowly the interior of the eggs assumes a darkish hue1 tinging the whole mass so much that it is then termed black spat4 ,within the space of a fortnight the mass of black spat breaks up1 and the young oyster is set free4 ,mr4 ,frank ,buckland has been fortunate enough to actually see this taking place4 ,the oyster appears to await its opportunity1 it stealthily opens its shell1 and a lot of spat looking like a dense cloud is ejected4 ,after a minute or two another cloud appears1 and this is continually repeated till the performance is concluded4 ,myriads of young oysters thus liberated from parental control now enter upon the free swimming or locomotive stage of their existence4 ,that is to say they remain near the surface of the sea1 although incessantly moving in every direction4 ,after a variable time1 however1 they suddenly descend and attach themselves to any suitable substance1 on which they at once become distinctly visible in the form of white dots4 ,in their restless stage they are scarcely discernible by the naked eye1 but they settle down so rapidly and in such numbers that they appear to fall down through the water4 ,this is known to oyster fishermen as a fall of spat1 and we shall see that this fall of spat is an important occurrence1 but that it varies greatly in different seasons4 ,,the ,,failure ,,in ,,the ,,new ,,south ,,wales ,,and ,,victorian ,,oyster ,,supplies4 ,in both ,new ,south ,wales and ,victoria the condition of affairs in connection with the oyster fisheries and the oyster yield is extremely discouraging4 ,so much so1 that unless something is done--and done quickly--we may have to rely mainly on outside resources for our supply4 ,even at the present time this is the case to a greater extent than most people have any idea of4 ,in support of this statement1 as far as ,new ,south ,wales is concerned1 it is only necessary to turn to the last ,fisheries ,report for the year ending #ahij4 ,there it is pointed out that in that year1 notwithstanding the enormous length of our oyster-bearing foreshores1 we are brought face to face with the fact that we are indebted to other colonies--,new ,zealand and ,queensland-- for ,,two-,,thirds of our supply4 ,again1 ,mr4 ,lindsay ,thompson1 the chief inspector of ,new ,south ,wales fisheries1 in his recent official work1 ,,the ,,fisheries ,,of ,,new ,,south ,,wales1 makes the following statements3--,in the year #ahga no less than #ic1jjj bushels of oysters were obtained from the ,new ,south ,wales beds1 which1 indeed1 helped to supply the ,victorian as well as our own needs2 in the year #ahhc there was a fall to #df1cgg bushels2 while in #ahia our fisheries yielded only #ad1aha bushels4 ,this is a very significant shrinkage1 and shows a remarkable falling off in the winnings4 ,it is still maintained by some1 however1 that there has been a succession of bad spatting years1 and that the supply may yet reach to something of its old proportions4 ,it will be instructive1 then1 in this connection to refer briefly to the efforts which legislation has made to remedy matters in ,new ,south ,wales4 ,under the old ,oyster ,beds ,act of #ahfh the areas given to lessees were somewhat large1 and consequently what with the prolific natural supply1 and a relatively small population1 they appeared to be doing too well4 ,it was urged1 therefore1 that the holdings should be more restricted in size1 and that in this way a large number of small occupiers would be afforded a means of living1 while at the same time these smaller areas would receive more attention4 ,by the ,fisheries ,act of #ahha a new era dawned upon the oyster fisheries of this colony1 and a system of licensing small holdings was initiated4 ,under this ,act licensed dredging was permitted1 but with such disastrous results that within two years a ,fisheries ,act ,amendment ,act had to be passed4 ,what happened1 in short1 was that the beds were actually skinned1 so that the total disappearance of the oyster was looming in the distance4 ,but even the passing of this latter ,act was powerless to check the evil1 and by the ,oyster ,fisheries ,act of #ahhd 7the present ,act7 there was a reversal to the old system of long leases and larger holdings4 ,even at the present time matters are far from perfect1 and in the opinion of the ,commissioners of ,fisheries some radical change is necessary if oyster production is to have a place at all4 ,now1 it is true that the present ,act has checked the wholesale extermination of oysters on the part of licensed dredgers4 ,but1 unfortunately1 in its passage through ,parliament1 some unhappy amendments totally altered the intention of the ,bill4 ,for instance1 one clause makes it penal to remove oysters from a reserve or leased area without authority2 but omits the protection of oysters on adjoining foreshores which may not be under lease at all2 and it has accordingly happened that unprincipled persons have proceeded to rob the adjacent unleased beds of every single oyster they contained4 ,but while faulty and inoperative legislation may be responsible in part for the failure in our oysteries1 it is certain that other causes must be at work to bring about such a disastrous result4 ,and in the different annual reports on the fisheries of the colony this is attributed to various reasons4 ,thus at some places1 between the ,richmond and ,port ,macquarie1 it has been set down to the presence of quantities of decomposing sea-weed on the oyster beds2 in the ,manning to deposits of mud and sand2 and elsewhere again to the ravages of a small worm4 ,besides these causes1 too1 it has been ascribed to the long continued absence of floods1 with a consequent increased salinity of the water--the latter being considered inimical to oyster life4 ,in the opinion of scientific writers1 water containing #c per cent4 of salt is most suitable for oyster development1 water above that salinity being too strong1 and that below it too weak4 ,it has also been well pointed out by ,mr4 henry ,woodward1 in his admirable pamphlet on ,oyster ,culture in ,new ,south ,wales1 that most of our deep water beds are situated in the rivers1 a little way from the sea4 ,under favourable circumstances there is just that commingling of the fresh water from the river and the salt water from the sea which produces the oyster to perfection4 ,in times of drought1 however1 the salt water drives out the oysters from the deeper beds by reason of its greater density4 ,on the other hand1 the fresh water1 being the lighter1 floats at the top and enables the oysters to live in the shallower parts1 by maintaining the required #c per cent4 of salinity4 ,it is evident from this1 that the lessees have acted in direct opposition to this natural law1 for they have stripped the oysters from the shallow water1 where they would have done well1 and laid them down on the deep beds1 where the increased percentage of salt water has proved too much for them4 ,dr4 ,james ,c4 ,cox1 of ,sydney1 the ,president of the ,fisheries ,commission1 and our best known authority on conchology1 has contributed a very valuable paper upon ,the ,australian ,oyster1 its ,cultivation and ,destruction1 to the recent official work1 ,,the ,,fisheries ,,of ,,new ,,south ,,wales1 already referred to4 ,a brief summary of his views will1 therefore1 be full of interest4 ,first of all1 then1 he separates oysters into three classes1 namely1 drift oysters1 mud oysters1 and rock oysters4 ,now1 this classification must be clearly borne in mind1 as it will the better enable the reader to understand what follows4 ,he attributes the want of success in our oysteries to several causes1 which have not been sufficiently heeded4 ,one of these is that the oyster culturists have expected that the seed oysters which they obtained from between high and low water mark 7rock oysters7 would produce drift oysters if placed on beds on which drift oysters once throve in abundance4 ,dr4 ,cox maintains1 however1 that these two kinds of oysters1 the rock oysters and the drift oysters1 are quite different1 and1 as it will be seen1 believes that they require different food4 ,it can be well understood from this1 then1 that rock oysters will fail to grow on drift-oyster beds4 ,as to the mud oyster1 he thinks very highly of it1 and regrets that it has been so ignored by our oyster culturists4 ,he is quite sure that if our mud oyster were cultivated and educated as it is now in ,europe1 it would be brought to the same perfection as the ,european and ,american oyster4 ,it has been said of our mud oyster that it will not keep1 and will not carry2 but the same was said of its ,european representative until its cultivators came to discover that by a gradual process of raising it could be educated to keep quite long enough for all commercial purposes4 ,to come to the real point on which ,dr4 ,cox considers that all oyster culture has failed in ,australian waters4 ,it is an established fact that the drift oyster and also the mud oyster require a diatomatic food for their existence4 ,these two varieties of oysters no doubt consume other forms of food1 but living diatoms constitute by far the greatest part4 ,on the contrary1 the rock oyster does not appear to need the diatomatic nutriment to sny extent1 and is fed chiefly by larval forms of marine life4 ,thus1 knowing that the drift and mud oysters require different food from the rock oyster1 it is easy to see why our oyster culturists have failed in establishing new beds of oysters in various places4 ,for the whole purport of ,dr4 ,cox's paper may be summarised into expressing his belief that sufficient attention has not been devoted to the replenishment of our natural beds1 ,,with ,,their ,,own ,,kind4 ,in former days1 when our drift and mud oysters were in their prime1 there were many pools of naturally preserved fresh water--in fact1 often very extensive lakes--on the banks of many of the estuaries and inlets running up into our rivers and creeks4 ,now1 these reservoirs appear to have been constantly supplied by subaqueous springs of fresh water1 and in consequence the supply of diatomatic food was abundant4 ,it was abundant1 because1 as it is well known1 diatomatic life depends for its existence1 to a great extent1 on the presence of fresh water4 ,these collections of fresh water no longer exist1 so that the diatomatic food supply is not forthcoming to maintain the drift and the mud oyster4 ,but there are other additional causes for the disappearance of these latter4 ,the surrounding ground has been cleared for agricultural purposes1 and the earth1 broken up by ploughing1 has been washed into these estuaries1 and has suffocated1 as it were1 the oysters in their natural position4 ,again1 the water which flows over the oysters is continually being disturbed by the different steamers passing up and down4 ,the stirred-up mud they create gets into the gills1 and destroys the oysters4 ,from the preceding it will be seen that ,mr4 ,cox is of opinion that the loss of diatomatic food is one of the principal causes in diminishing the supply of drift and mud oysters1 and in addition he believes that this decrease has been also brought about by muddy water4 ,indeed1 fairly clear water is absolutely necessary for their existence4 ,on the contrary1 water loaded with any sediment interferes with the functions of the oyster so much as to destroy it4 ,in this way floods are considered to be beneficial1 and even almost necessary1 to proper oyster development2 for they clear out the accumulations of mud1 silt1 and marine vegetable growth1 thus giving the beds every chance4 ,and further1 ,mr4 ,thomas ,whitelegge1 of the ,australian ,museum1 has made some investigations into what is known as the worm disease1 due to the ,,polydora ,,ciliata4 ,it was commonly suppose that it was not the worm itself which was fatal1 but that by boring through the shell it afforded entrance for the fine mud1 which quickly destroyed the oyster4 ,from the result of his researches1 however1 ,mr4 ,whitelegge believes that the young worm simply swims into the open oyster1 and that it immediately begins to construct a tube and collect a large quantity of mud4 ,the worms appear to have the power of collecting a large quantity of mud in a very short time4 ,the mud is covered over at once by the oyster with a thin layer of shelly matter1 thus enveloping the worm1 together with its mud4 ,after this1 one of two things happens3 if the oyster be healthy1 it envelops the worm and mud so quickly as to dispose of the intruder for good2 but1 on the other hand1 if the oyster be unhealthy1 or already infested1 the shelly deposition is far slower1 as a consequence of which the worm gains the ascendency1 and the oyster succumbs4 ,in ,victoria1 too1 the oyster fisheries are in a most unsatisfactory condition4 ,according to ,mr4 ,saville ,kent1 the author of ,,the ,,great ,,barrier ,,reef ,,of ,,australia and formerly ,commissioner of ,fisheries in several of the ,australian colonies1 and who is qualified to speak on these matters1 the destruction of the oyster there has been brought about by sedimentary deposits1 by parasitic growths1 such as sponges1 mussels1 ascidians1 and sea-weed2 by the attacks of the dog-whelk and other natural enemies2 and by their continual removal by human agency4 ,he points out that there are the remains of magnificent natural beds in different parts1 but that they are on the verge of ruin through neglect on the one hand and the invasion of poachers on the other4 ,in short1 he very plainly shows that unless active measures be taken for their general resuscitation and development1 ,victoria will have to look elsewhere for her oyster supply4 ,,the ,,re-,,creation ,,of ,,our ,,oyster ,,fisheries4 ,if one only looks to the conduct of some of those who have been engaged in our oyster fisheries1 the reason for their present defective state will be readily apparent4 ,the ,fisheries ,commissioners well express it when they state that ,if a person takes up ground only for the purpose of collecting and selling whatever oysters he finds upon it1 and bestows no care in providing for the continuity of the supply1 that ground must cease to be productive4 ,and apart from this it will be found that even when every effort has been made to provide for continuous supply1 yet the matter is by no means easy4 ,the truth is the oyster fisheries have been managed in a happy-go-lucky way4 ,there has been but little care taken in their conservation1 and the inevitable result is that the winnings1 as the official figures show1 are rapidly failing4 ,the same thing is not peculiar to ,australia1 however1 and has happened everywhere else where the same careless policy has been pursued4 ,we have1 then1 a grain of comfort from the fact that it is not confined to us4 ,in our own case the ,fisheries ,commissioners have repeatedly called attention to the need for certain legislative reform in connection with our oysteries4 ,they assert1 in fact1 that it is absolutely imperative that our oyster beds and deposits must be regulated on quite a different system to that which obtains under the existing law4 ,mr4 ,saville ,kent1 who has been investigating the cause of failure in connection with the oyster fisheries of ,victoria1 not so long ago1 has made some interesting recommendations4 ,the principle of his system is to establish on selected spots1 in the neighbourhood of the formerly most productive natural oyster grounds1 small ,government reserves1 whereon stocks of oysters shall be laid down and carefully cultivated for breeding purposes4 ,he points out that the capacity of oysters for breeding is greatly augmented when they are collected together in a small space1 in comparison with that of equal numbers thinly scattered over my extensive area4 ,each reserve in this way constitutes a prolific breeding centre for stocking the surrounding waters1 and by this means alone the process of restoring the natural beds is quickly accelerated4 ,indeed1 he is particularly careful to draw attention to the fact that in the previously attempted establishment of artificial oyster fisheries a prominent error was in working too large areas4 ,one or two acres intelligently cultivated can be made to produce far more substantial results than a very large area under inefficient management1 and at much less expenditure of time and money4 ,a vast amount of money has been expended in different localities on the ,victorian coast for the purpose of developing the oyster fisheries4 ,in the great majority of cases1 however1 the site selected was unsuitable for such a purpose1 and the mode of culture adopted impracticable and inefficient4 ,for instance1 one place was the recipient of a vast amount of sedimentary deposits4 ,here he found that they had surrounded the chosen areas with fences of great height and strength1 and closely wattled1 for the purpose of catching and retaining the young oyster brood4 ,instead of this1 however1 they had simply acted as catch-pits1 which had accumulated soft oozy mud to the depth of several feet1 and a few dead oyster shells were the only result4 ,instead of such an evident failure as this1 he recommends oyster-spat collectors of two kinds1 one consisting of extra thick split palings #d ft4 long by #h in4 wide1 with a brick attached to each end to weigh them down1 and at the same time to raise them off the ground4 ,several of them on being raised for inspection1 after three months1 were found to have over #a1jjj embryo oysters adhering to them4 ,the other form of spat collector he employs consists of cemented slates1 arranged ridge-wise on light ti-tree frames1 and in some localities these were found to be even more efficacious than the palings4 ,in the old country the same necessity for oyster culture is well recognised4 ,in an interesting address given not so long ago1 ,professor ,huxley1 after referring to the growing scarcity of the bivalve1 expressed his belief that the only hope for the oyster consumer was first in oyster culture1 and secondly in discovering a means of breeding oysters under such conditions that all the spat was safely deposited4 ,france has done more than any other country in the world in the artificial culture of the oyster4 ,not many years ago the oyster fisheries there were in danger of absolute extinction--a state of affairs brought about by reckless and unrestricted fishing1 without any effort to provide for a re-supply4 ,mainly through the efforts of ,m4 ,coste1 the propagation of oysters was scientifically carried out1 with a result that has even exceeded the marvellous4 ,according to a recent ,french official report1 the ,bay of ,arcachon contained in the year #ahjg1 #bj private ,,parcs1 or district oyster beds4 ,in the year #ahfe these had increased to the number of #big1 with an output of #aj1jjj1jjj oysters4 ,in the year #ahhg1 the area under cultivation in the same bay amounted to #ae1jjj acres1 and produced #cjj1jjj1jjj oysters4 ,in addition to this1 a still later report attributes the present flourishing condition of this industry to the steps primarily initiated by the ,government1 and to the necessity of upholding this success by continuing the same system of administrative supervision1 together with the practical illustration in the ,government model ,,parcs of the most perfected methods of oyster culture1 for the benefit of private cultivators4 ,and lastly1 if we require further evidence in support of the necessity for ostreiculture1 we have only to turn to ,america4 ,a falling off in the supply led to an inquiry into the cause by the ,united ,states ,fish ,commission4 ,professor ,goode1 in his review of the work accomplished by this body1 writes1 ,,inter ,,alia3--,the important distinction between the extermination of a species and the destruction of a fishery should be noted4 ,in the case of fixed animals like the sponge1 the mussel1 and the oyster1 the colonies or beds may be practically exterminated1 exactly as a forest may be cut down4 ,the preservation of the oyster beds is a matter of vital importance to the ,united ,states1 for oyster fishing unsupported by oyster culture will1 within a short period1 destroy the employment of tens of thousands1 and the cheap and favourite food of tens of millions4 ,something1 the professor proceeds to say1 may be effected by laws which allow each oyster bed to rest for a period of years after each season of fishing upon it4 ,it is the general belief1 however1 that shell-fish beds must be cultivated as carefully as garden beds1 and that this can only be done by leasing them to individuals4 ,it is probable that the present unregulated methods will prevail until the dredging of the natural beds ceases to be remunerative1 and that the oyster industry will then be transferred from the improvident fisherman to the care-taking oyster-culturists4 ,we are thus led to the inevitable conclusion that if our ,australian oyster fisheries are to be re-created1 it will be necessary to follow in the same lines4 ,with that object in view1 therefore1 it will be needful to devise suitable legislative enactments to protect our oyster fisheries and to foster ostreiculture at the same time4 ,we must benefit1 in short1 by the experience derived from other parts of the world where ostreiculture has been carried to a state of absolute perfection4 ,,the ,,food ,,value ,,of ,,the ,,oyster4 ,in the first place ,i shall begin by affirming that it would be a difficult matter indeed to say too much in favour of the oyster4 ,it is as highly appreciated at the present day as it was by the ,romans hundreds of years ago1 and it is certain that in centuries to come it will be found occupying a similar unrivalled position4 ,at the same time1 it must not be forgotten that it is not every person who cares for the oyster1 showing that there are various forms of affliction2 and we find1 accordingly1 that there is no half-heartedness about the like or dislike for the oyster--it is either held in the loftiest admiration1 or looked upon almost with repugnance4 ,it is both food for the sick-room and food for the strong man4 ,it is one of the most valuable forms of nourishment for the growing child1 and it gives strength to those of declining years4 ,it is specially appropriate for the brain worker1 and yet it is deservedly in great repute with the muscle user--whether athlete or artisan4 ,it is the opening ceremony at our feasts1 while it reigns supreme at supper4 ,in short1 there is everything to be said for it1 while not a single word can be urged against it4 ,but if it is thus so highly appreciated in health1 it is in disease that it is at its best2 for here it occupies a place which nothing else can fill4 ,indeed1 after many cases of acute or serious illness1 the oyster is one of the first things which the patient looks for4 ,in many chronic disorders1 too1 it is absolutely without a rival4 ,thus1 in anaemia1 where the blood is so poor1 it restores the strength2 in bronchitis and other chest diseases it helps to relieve the loaded tubes of phlegm2 in consumption and similar wasting maladies it conserves the vital powers2 in debility it creates new force2 in indigestion it is often digestible when all else is indigestible2 in nervous disease it renews the nervous energy4 ,the list1 in fact1 might be multiplied indefinitely1 but enough has been instanced to prove the value of the oyster4 ,it should be added1 in conclusion1 that it is best eaten raw1 with its juice1 which is its blood mixed with sea-water4 ,a squeeze of lemon is generally employed to bring out its flavour1 and1 for those who are not invalids1 a sensation of cayenne pepper is distinctly an improvement4 ,,the ,,food ,,value ,,of ,,fish4 ,along with its great ally1 the oyster1 fish undoubtedly occupies one of the highest places on the food list4 ,unfortunately1 it is not met with in every home as it should be1 its high price and scarcity combining to make it conspicuous by its absence4 ,that such a state of things is actually the case in ,australia can only be deeply deplored4 ,let us suppose1 for instance1 that we were as well supplied with fish as we are entitled to be1 considering that we are of a maritime race and that we live near the sea4 ,if such were the case--and ,i would it were so-- how would a sudden reversal to the present state of our fish supply be received8 ,would it not give rise to protestations1 to indignation meetings1 to questionings in the ,house1 and to the papers being filled with complaints1 till matters were put right again8 ,yes1 indeed1 all these things would happen6 meanwhile1 however1 we continue placidly in our fishless state of existence1 and the finny tribe1 outside in the deep sea1 have a good time in consequence4 ,it may seem of little use1 therefore1 to call attention to the value of fish when we are practically bereft of it4 ,but as some improvement may come about in course of time1 the attempt will not be altogether thrown away4 ,first of all1 then1 it is worthy of note that in the old country that advocate for rational feeding1 ,sir ,henry ,thompson1 has recently expressed his opinion that a large proportion of the town population would profit by exchanging some of their meat1 as an article of daily diet1 for fish4 ,he further adds that the digestive system is apt to become overloaded and oppressed by meals consisting chiefly of meat1 and that many a constitution suffers from an over-supply in this way1 which cannot be remedied without a considerable amount of exercise4 ,that being the case in the old country1 with its cold1 damp climate1 these facts are intensified a thousandfold when they are applied to our semi-tropical existence4 ,dr4 ,t4 ,k4 ,chambers1 also1 another authority on all that pertains to diet1 is an advocate for a more general use of fish in our daily life2 and1 as he sagely observes1 every sort is best when it is cheapest1 for it is then most plentiful and in fullest season4 ,then1 again1 we have ,dr4 ,f4,w4 ,pavy1 who is well qualified to speak on these matters1 observing that fish is an important article of food4 ,for1 as he proceeds to point out1 the health and vigour of the inhabitants of the fishing towns1 where fish may form the only kind of animal food consumed1 show that it is capable of contributing1 in an effective manner1 to the maintenance of the body under active conditions of life4 ,dr4 ,horace ,dobell1 too1 tells us how nearly fish represents in food value as equal weight of meat1 and how important it is to other forms of animal food as a mixed diet4 ,indeed1 it would be possible to adduce similar statements to an indefinite extent1 but my main object in making these references is to call attention to the value of fish as ordinary diet4 ,and although it hae an every-day value of this kind1 there are in addition certain qualities ascribed to fish which render it particularly appropriate for a large and important section of our population4 ,i refer to the brain workers4 ,i say large and important1 because in their ranks are to be found literary men and journalists1 members of the professions1 active-minded1 busy men of the commercial world1 and the vast array of those having mental work and clerical occupations4 ,in one of the latest books on the subject of food and diet by ,dr4 ,burney ,yeo1 he remarks that it is the custom to speak of fish as an intellectual or brain food1 on account of the phosphorus contained in it4 ,but he adds that much of its reputation in this respect may be due to its being readily digested by persons of sedentary and studious habits4 ,he proceeds to quote ,louis ,agassiz1 the famous naturalist1 who bestows upon fish the following3--,refreshing to the organism1 especially for intellectual labour2 not that its use can turn an idiot into a wise or witty man1 but a fish diet cannot be otherwise than favourable to brain development4 ,but if fish is thus a necessary and desirable element in the dietary of our active daily life1 it is not to be forgotten that it is at least equally valuable for the invalid4 ,it is often tolerated by the stomach when the digestive powers are weakened from any cause4 ,when the system is recruiting after any exhausting illness1 it is usually amongst the earliest forms of nourishment allowed4 ,in many chronic disorders1 likewise1 it is just one of those things whose place it would be impossible to fill4 ,and1 lastly1 it should be ever remembered that many men whose lives are passed in a state of perfect thraldom by reason of their extravagant use of butcher's meat would find themselves better in health1 better in spirits1 and better in temper1 were they to curtail their allowance1 substituting fish in its place4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,on ,,salads2 ,,salad ,,plants ,,and ,,herbs2 ,,and ,,salad ,,making4 ,a ,,salad ,,is ,a ,,delicacy ,,which ,,the ,,poorest ,,of ,,us ,,ought ,,always ,,to ,,command4 ,although for some years past any information pertaining to salads and salad-making has been eagerly welcomed by the writer1 yet it must be admitted that great difficulties in obtaining such know-ledge in ,australia do exist1 because the use and value of salads are not widespread and understood1 and thus it is that their health-conferring properties are passed by seemingly without regret4 ,and if the topic1 therefore1 is one possessing an attractive personal interest1 for that very reason it is felt that the present chapter falls far short of what might be achieved2 yet it may be permissible to plead in extenuation thereof that its composition has not proved the easiest of tasks1 and its shortcomings must consequently be condoned by an indulgent public4 ,i shall begin1 then1 by saying that if ever there was a form of food which was intended for our semi-tropical climate it is undoubtedly the salad1 and as thus constituting an article of diet so well adapted for ,australia it should certainly be seen daily in every household4 ,it is so appropriately suitable for use amongst us that it deserves to be intituled the sea-breeze of the table1 for in addition to its invigorating qualities1 it cleanses1 while at the same time it enriches1 the blood4 ,the late gifted ,george ,dallas did not go too far when he asserted that a salad was not merely food1 but that it had also an exhilarating effect and a distinct action upon the nervous system1 which was immensely agreeable and acted like a spell4 ,it seems more suitable1 however1 instead of abruptly plunging into the matter of salad concoction1 to say a few words from a culinary point of view on the art of making life enjoyable1 and thus to draw attention to the curious neglect which is shown to a form of food within the reach of all classes1 and whose use would be of the greatest advantage to the health and pleasing to the palate4 ,at the same time1 although an ardent believer in the distinct benefit which would be derived by the entire community from the adoption of a mode of living more in harmony with their climatic surroundings1 yet ,i must disclaim any desire to pose as a faddist4 ,in truth1 there are too many worthy people who would submit all the world to their theories in a ,procrustean fashion1 and who see in their particular hobby a panacea for the whole of human frailties and human sufferings4 ,instead1 therefore1 of dilating on the undeniable consequences attached to the reasonless use of animal food at present followed throughout ,australia1 ,i shall content myself with a few remarks on the art of living4 ,by far the greater number of people pay too little attention to the present1 and imperil their happiness with the hope that at some future period1 when they will have put a little together1 they will be enabled to thoroughly lay themselves out for enjoyment4 ,but in the vast majority of cases these halcyon days never arrive1 or1 if they do1 it is more than probable the health is undermined by the neglect of those very matters which should form part and parcel of one's daily existence4 ,it is the exact parallel to a man hurrying through many fields and parks and gardens for the purpose of enjoying1 from some high eminence1 the scene through which he has passed4 ,in his desperate haste to attain his object he disregards all that is beautiful and interesting1 only to find that his travelling is nearly over1 and that his steps cannot be retraced4 ,on the other hand1 a far more philosophic frame of mind belongs to him who1 as he proceeds onwards through life's journey1 gets a rational enjoyment out of his existence1 so that his days pass pleasantly and his health receives the consideration it deserves4 ,it will appear somewhat mundane in this connection to assert that the latter and1 therefore1 happiness are to a great extent dependent upon the mode of living1 but nevertheless it is absolutely true1 and thus it is that ,i come back to the quotation at the beginning of this chapter-- ,a salad is a delicacy which the poorest of us ought always to command4 ,you will remember that the ,duc de la ,rochefoucauld1 in those marvellous essays and maxims of his1 says that notwithstanding the disparity of men's fortunes happiness is equally distributed4 ,he was doubtless right1 more especially as he looked at the matter from a ,frenchman's point of view1 for it must be remembered that to the great body of people in that country life is more pleasant than to the rest of humanity4 ,indeed1 on this point ,mr4 ,sept4 ,berdmore declares that in ,france dishes are cooked by the humblest which would be appreciated if they appeared on the menu of the best club in ,london1 and he avows1 moreover1 it possesses the greatest national school of cookery that has ever existed4 ,but1 on the contrary1 as far as ,australia is concerned1 the state of affairs in the culinary art with the bulk of the people is simply deplorable1 and it seems4 well nigh hopeless for any improvement to be brought about4 ,there is1 however1 one little ray of light at the end of this dark tunnel we are in1 and it is the knowledge that the cookery classes in the public schools will by-and-by bring about important changes1 resulting in the amelioration of the whole of the culinary habits at present1 curiously1 supposed to exist4 ,and it is gratifying to know that the admirable cookery classes at the ,technical ,college1 under the able guidance of ,mrs4 ,wicken1 are making the most excellent progress and producing brilliant results4 ,these altruistic reflections1 however1 have somewhat drifted us away from the matter under consideration1 so that it becomes necessary to revert again to the main subject4 ,now1 even at the risk of being regarded as wearisome1 ,i propose to consider somewhat fully the different steps to be followed in the preparation of a simple salad1 for it will be noticed that in all the cookery books the directions given for the concoction of a salad are most meagre and wanting in detail4 ,in addition to this want of information1 too1 it is quite evident that the instructions have never been actually followed by the compilers of these works themselves1 or they would signally fail if they attempted to follow their own advice4 ,furthermore1 even those who pride themselves on the knowledge of the preparation of food for the table are often surprisingly misinformed on the subject of salad-making4 ,it will be as well at this stage1 consequently1 to refer to the plan usually followed by ,english people1 so as the better to contrast the two methods--the faulty or ,english with the correct or ,french4 ,well then1 ,english people almost invariably cut their lettuce first into halves1 and next into quarters4 ,these latter are then placed in water to soak for some time1 and are afterwards laid on a plate to drain4 ,in this way the leaves are supposed to be thoroughly cleansed1 but as a matter of fact deep down between the leaves are the minute insects1 which are left undisturbed4 ,the next proceeding is to cut the leaves into very fine shreds1 to add a few slices of hard-boiled egg1 and finally to pour over the whole a mysterious mixture known as salad-dressing4 ,thus is produced the orthodox ,english salad1 which everyone1 probably from patriotic motives1 pronounces to be extremely nice4 ,in the ,french preparation of a salad1 however1 each single leaf is detached and carefully cleansed1 some needing simply wiping1 while others require absolute washing4 ,every leaf1 be it borne in mind1 before going into the salad bowl must be perfectly dry1 or else the first great principle of salad making will be infringed1 for oil and water refuse to mingle4 ,in preparing a ,french salad1 too1 the stalks or coarse ribs are removed from the middle part of each leaf1 and the larger leaves also are carefully divided into halves4 ,the whole leaf is not chopped up into shreds1 as in the ,english salad4 ,after this the drying of the leaves is best accomplished by placing them within a clean towel4 ,instead of the towel a wire basket1 panier a salade1 is more convenient and is generally used in ,france2 it should be easily obtainable for a shilling or two4 ,in using the towel the four corners are held together in the right hand1 and the whole is repeatedly brought sharply round with a swing of the arm1 stopping with a sudden jerk1 till all the water is driven off #jaa the floor4 ,herein consists the excellence of the ,french method1 for the leaves are thoroughly cleansed1 the acrid parts are removed1 and the leaves are perfectly dry4 ,on a small plate1 near by1 are usually three or four heaps of finely-chopped herbs 7,,fines ,,herbes71 namely1 burnet1 chervil1 chives1 tarragon1 mustard and cress1 or even parsley2 these constitute what is known as the fourniture of the salad4 ,the lettuce leaves1 on being taken out of the towel1 are then placed within the bowl1 and over them is daintily spread whatever is required from each of the little heaps of herbs already referred to4 ,a little salt is next to be quietly tapped over the salad1 and the spoon salad-server is then filled once or twice with the best salad-oil1 and this is now sprinkled on the salad1 carefully turning the leaves over the while so as to obtain the thinnest possible film of oil equally distributed over the whole surface of each leaf4 ,the salad spoon is next half-filled with the best vinegar1 and the latter liquid is now most carefully added1 only a drop or so at a time1 so as to diffuse it uniformly throughout the whole4 ,the thorough incorporation of the oil1 but more particularly of the vinegar1 with the salad requires to be done with a light hand to avoid bruising the leaves1 and consists in stirring it and dexterously bringing up the under leaves4 ,this comparison1 however1 between the methods of preparing salads according to the ,english and the ,french fashion is not quite complete1 and consequently it will be advisable to refer to one or two other matters1 of which it is necessary to be apprised in order to produce a perfect salad4 ,in the first place1 the form of the salad bowl itself is very important1 for it will readily be apparent that it must be of such a shape as to facilitate the complete blending of the oil and vinegar with the materials used4 ,that which is nearest to half a perfect sphere is by far the best2 and another essential is that it should be of sufficient size to afford room for free manipulation4 ,on looking in the windows orle is fairly astonished at the diversity of shapes that are exposed for sale4 ,in most of them the floor of the bowl is flat1 with a sort of recess all round its margin4 ,this1 of course1 is most ill-adapted for the purpose for which it is intended4 ,nearly all of them1 again1 are by far too small2 it is impossible to mix a salad properly in a vessel very little larger than a soup plate4 ,so that in the selection of a salad bowl see that it is the nearest approach to half a perfect sphere in shape1 and take care that it is roomy enough for freely working the salad4 ,lastly1 do not waste money on the meretricious ornamental world which besets so many of the bowls exposed for sale4 ,a very good substitute can be made in the ordinary large earthenware basin used in the kitchen1 the deeper the better1 which will be found to answer every purpose1 and its cost brings it within the reach of every purse4 ,next1 with regard to the servers1 these are usually supplied with the bowl1 but wooden servers are considered by many to be the best1 and price is certainly no drawback4 ,the oil1 too1 must be the purest you can buy1 and ,crosse and ,blackwell's is as good as any2 at least1 ,i do not know of a better oil at present1 as it is sweet and without the slightest suspicion of rankness4 ,so1 too1 with regard to vinegar3 pay a little more for a good article1 and you will have no cause to regret it4 ,the best ,french1 or ,crosse and ,blackwell's white wine vinegar1 is good enough for anybody4 ,you will find that the oil and the vinegar will last a long time1 and that the cost of making a salad is actually the veriest trifle4 ,in making a plain lettuce salad such as has been described1 you will1 of course1 have to do without the chopped herbs1 because1 unfortunately1 we in ,australia have not risen to the necessity for their cultivation1 but you can make shift with small pieces of celery1 which taste admirably in the salad1 or little bits of radish1 or thin slices of cucumber-- whatever1 in fact1 happens to be in season4 ,there is a remarkable condition of affairs obtaining in ,sydney1 and the same applies to the other metropolitan centres of ,australia4 ,on turning up our directory for the current year it will be found on reference that the number of butchers for the city and suburbs is nearly #fjj4 ,on the other hand1 the number of those whose calling is given as that of greengrocer does not reach #cjj4 ,now1 it is not to be denied that a goodly proportion of vegetables are sold by dealers whose address is not to be found under the latter heading4 ,nevertheless1 it is still a significant fact that while many of the butchers' establishments possess quite an attractive and inviting appearance1 on the contrary those devoted to the sale of greengrocery are represented by dingy-looking places1 and by a collection of faded vegetables which seem always to be apologising for being on view at all4 ,the show of meat which is to be found in our ,australian capitals is certainly worthy city in the world1 and if the display of vegetables were only equal to it1 as it assuredly should be1 there would be at least something on which we might congratulate ourselves4 ,another fact which is equally to be deplored with this small display of vegetables seen throughout the city is the few varieties which are cultivated4 ,in a former chapter attention was drawn to the nutritious properties and exquisite flavour of many vegetables which are easily grown1 but which are most unaccountably passed over1 and it will be remembered that the tomato was instanced in particular as having a desperate struggle for existence1 and that it was years and years before it was finally received into favour4 ,similarly in the case of salad plants there is the same matter for complaint1 and beyond the ordinary cabbage lettuce1 celery1 cucumbers1 and radishes1 there is nothing grown4 ,and yet there ought to be inducement enough for many of our young men to devote themselves to such a healthy occupation as market gardening1 with profit to themselves and with benefit to the community4 ,the market gardens around ,paris1 although small1 are cultivated to perfection4 ,the ,french market gardeners1 moreover1 are1 as a rule1 a very prosperous class2 they keep to themselves1 and marry among themselves4 ,on making inquiries from the leading seedsmen throughout ,australia1 and asking what varieties of salad plants are mostly in vogue1 you find that the cabbage lettuce is almost the sole representative4 ,and thus it is that in the very climate where the system calls for salads1 so to speak1 there is absolutely no attempt made to supply a crying want4 ,a brief reference to a few of these salad plants will better illustrate the importance of their culture4 ,here1 as with the different vegetables1 ,i applied to headquarters for information1 namely1 to ,mr4 ,f4 ,turnen1 of the ,department of ,agriculture1 ,sydney1 who once more came to my assistance and courteously indicated the localities in which they are likely to do well4 ,and it only seems fitting and appropriate here to remark that ,australia's road to prosperity lies through her agriculture2 the hydro-cephalic growth visible in every colony is unnatural and needs rectification4 ,lettuce4----,of this there are two varieties1 the ordinary cabbage lettuce and the cos1 so named from the ,island of ,cos in the ,aegean ,sea1 which is also known as the upright1 or smooth-leaved lettuce4 ,although this latter is to be obtained1 yet in nine cases out of ten only the cabbage lettuce is procurable4 ,but1 as a matter of fact1 the upright or smooth-leaved cos lettuce is of a more delicate flavour1 and when grown properly by having the leaves loosely tied together at the top about ten days before cutting1 it is more crisp and juicy1 and better adapted for saladings4 ,in the old country1 too1 the cos variety1 with its long leaves1 is common enough1 and is there preferred to the cabbage lettuce4 ,it is to be regretted1 therefore1 that we see so little of it4 ,endive4--,now1 here is a noble salad plant of which even the very name is hardly known by the greater number of our people4 ,there are practically two classes of endive1 the broad-leaved or ,batavian variety1 and the curly-leaved endive4 ,both sorts1 however1 must be well blanched if perfection is required4 ,it is true that the curly-leaved endive is at times to be obtained here1 but it is extensively cultivated in ,england1 as it is very crisp and tender1 while it also possesses a piquancy which is greatly appreciated4 ,nevertheless1 the plain or ,batavian kind 7the ,,escarole of the ,french7 has also its admirers1 particularly for salad purposes4 ,now1 it is to be carefully noted that the accompaniments1 or fourniture1 of these two varieties of endive are vastly different4 ,with the ,batavian it usually is formed of chervil1 tarragon1 and that delicate alliaceous salad herb1 chives4 ,on the other hand1 a chapon is used with the curly endive2 it consists of a crust of bread over which a clove of garlic has been rubbed4 ,this is thrown into the bowl and tossed about during the process of mixing the salad1 and gives to it a delightful effect4 ,in addition to its use as a salad1 the curly-leaved endive makes a particularly good garnish for grills1 such as chops1 steaks1 c42 and1 by the way1 ,sir ,henry ,thompson1 the eminent surgeon1 remarks that the sauce ,,par ,,excellence for grills is mushroom ketchup4 ,but before leaving the endive it is as well to refer to a blood relation1 namely1 the wild endive or chicory4 ,when its large1 fleshy roots are dried in a kiln1 roasted and ground1 they become familiarly known by their admixture with coffee4 ,this plant1 the succory of former days1 is greatly esteemed by the ,french1 by whom it is known as barbe de capucin4 ,to meet the great demand for it large quantities are sold in the neighbourhood of ,paris in order to produce this salading4 ,its young leaves are used for this purpose1 but they must be thoroughly blanched so as to take away every particle of bitterness4 ,corn ,salad4--,this hardy annual salad plant is believed to derive its name from the fact that it grows spontaneously in the grain-fields4 ,it is also known as lamb's lettuce1 and in ,america as fetticus4 ,here is an example of a once well-known plant dropping out of use1 for one of the earliest-known salads was this same corn salad1 on which was laid a red herring4 ,but now-a-days it is called ,,mache in ,covent ,garden ,market1 where it has been sent over from ,france4 ,this lamb's lettuce is greatly appreciated on the ,continent1 and makes one of the best of salads1 especially when mixed with celery4 ,as it can be easily grown in all the coastal districts and in the cooler parts of ,australia1 it is certainly a matter for regret that we are not favoured with it4 ,in addition to the preceding1 namely1 the cos lettuce1 the two varieties of endive1 the chicory1 and the corn salad1 or lamb's lettuce1 there are one or two other salad plants which require a brief notice4 ,now1 as far as celery and radishes are concerned1 we may be said to be fairly well off2 but the same is not the case with mustard1 with garden cress1 or even with watercress4 ,the latter is to be obtained from ,john ,chinaman1 it is true2 but it is curious that in ,australia we see none of the watercress vendors so familiar in the streets of the old country44 ,yet there is really a good living to be made out of it1 and its use would prove of benefit to hundreds of families1 as with a little salt it makes an exquisite sandwich between two thin pieces of bread-and-butter4 ,a wise physician1 ,dr4 ,t4,k4 ,chambers1 uttered a great truth when he remarked that the pale faces and bad teeth which characterised many of the inhabitants of cities were due to their inability to obtain a proper supply of fresh green vegetables1 and that thus the watercress-seller was one of the saviours of her country4 ,so great is the demand for watercress in ,new ,york when it first comes in that the prices range from #bs4 to #ds4 for a basket holding only three quarts4 ,at this rate an acre of watercress under cultivation would represent almost a fortune4 ,of course all watercress should be thoroughly washed and then dried in a towel1 like the lettuce for the salad1 before it is eaten4 ,lastly1 it must never be used from a source where any sewage contamination is suspected4 ,now1 although these different forms of salad plants are not cultivated to any considerable extent1 yet when we come to inquire into the salad herbs1 we find that they are not grown at all1 and indeed they are practically unknown4 ,they constitute1 however1 the crowning grace of a proper salad1 and confer upon it a delicacy which is unrivalled1 and thus it is that any traveller will tell you that a salad in ,france tastes so infinitely better than one elsewhere4 ,now1 these salad herbs are readily grown1 and do not require any care in their cultivation1 so that there is no opportunity for excuse on that score4 ,in order1 however1 to prevent this paper becoming too diffuse1 ,i must confine my remarks to those salad herbs which it is almost impossible to do without--that is1 if we wish to have any salads worth speaking of4 ,it will be convenient1 for this purpose1 to refer to the word ravigote2 and by this term is meant a collection of four herbs1 namely--burnet1 chervil1 chives1 and tarragon4 ,as has been already mentioned1 each of these herbs1 chopped up very finely1 is usually placed in a little heap by itself on the one plate1 and from these four heaps is selected whatever is required for the salad4 ,this invariably forms the garniture of any lettuce salad1 whether cabbage or cos1 and also of the ,batavian endive1 though1 as we have already seen1 the curly endive is best suited with the chapon--i4e41 the crust of bread rubbed over with a garlic clove4 ,the very derivation of the word ravigote1 from the ,french verb ,,ravigoter1 to cheer or strengthen1 shows that certain exhilarating virtues are ascribed to these herbs4 ,burnet4--,this is also known as salad burnet1 and is a hardy herb1 which will continue green during the greater part of the year4 ,the young and tender leaves possess a smell and taste almost identical with cucumber1 and greatly enhance the flavour of the salad4 ,these leaves1 when blanched1 are sprinkled over the latter2 but in addition burnet enters into the composition of ravigote butter1 and helps to form green mayonnaise4 ,it hardly requires any culture whatever1 and will do well in the coastal districts and in all the cooler localities4 ,with all these advantages1 therefore1 we can only marvel why it is denied us4 ,chervil4--,of the two varieties which are cultivated elsewhere than in ,australia--namely1 the common chervil and the curled variety--the latter is generally considered the better4 ,it grows about twenty inches high1 and has deeply divided leaves1 which are aromatic1 and which are thus absolutely a necessary component of any well-ordered salad4 ,the plant will grow everywhere1 and1 as it is never seen1 it is only one instance out of the many which might be adduced1 that much is neglected in ,australian cultivation which would be of advantage to the whole community4 ,chives4--,this is the most delicate of all the onion family2 it occupies the one end of the scale1 while garlic presides at the other2 and midway between these we find the spring onion1 the shallot1 and the onion itself4 ,it is a delightful salad herb which is too much neglected1 and it is worthily entitled to cultivation in ,australia4 ,it gives to the salad a piquancy and an agreeable pungent flavour1 which1 while it faintly recalls that of the onion1 is yet free from the accentuated properties of the latter4 ,in addition to lending such an enhancement to salads1 chives may be used for soups4 ,the plant itself is a hardy bulb1 growing to a height of about eight inches1 and it is the tender tops which are used for saladings4 ,it can be easily propagated1 and will grow readily in all the cooler districts4 ,tarragon4--,this used popularly to be known in the old country as herb dragon1 whereas it is now vested with the newer title4 ,it is frequently to be found there is the country gardens1 where it is in repute for the preparation of tarragon vinegar4 ,it1 however1 occupies a position second to none as a salad accessory4 ,it is one of the most odoriferous of the pot herbs1 and gives to a salad a delightful aromatic warmth4 ,at present all that one can do in the concoction of a salad is to make use of the tarragon vinegar1 which is so admirably put up by ,messrs4 ,crosse and ,blackwell4 ,those who are fortunate enough to possess the plant itself should keep the leaves1 as when dried they retain their flavour for some time4 ,it is recommended1 however1 that the young plants should be propagated each year by division of the roots1 as the plants of the first and second years are more delicate than those of older growth4 ,it can easily be grown over the greater part of ,australia1 but ,i am not going to say more than that we are needlessly bereft of what we might enjoy4 ,in drawing attention to any matter connected with the subject of this chapter1 a brief reference to mayonnaise sauce must necessarily find a place4 ,this may be used with all endless variety of salads1 but it is particularly concerned in the preparation of chicken1 and also of crayfish salad4 ,on looking through the cookery-books one gets perfectly bewildered with the different directions laid down by the various authors4 ,this mayonnaise sauce1 however1 is so very important that it becomes an absolute necessity to know the successive steps in its preparation1 for1 though easily made1 yet there is a right and a wrong way of going about it4 ,through the kindly offices of that accomplished aristologist1 ,dr4 ,a4 ,burne1 ,i was enabled to have some practical instruction in making mayonnaise sauce at the hands of the ,,chef of the ,cosmopolitan ,club1 and ,i will endeavour1 therefore1 to give an account of how he went to work4 ,the bowl he employed to mix it was about #i in4 across at the top1 and its floor was rounded in shape1 just as a salad bowl should be1 to facilitate the thorough incorporation of the ingredients4 ,then1 taking a couple of eggs1 he broke each one by knocking its side midway between the two ends against the rim of the bowl4 ,the greater part of the white of the egg was allowed to escape into a small vessel next the bowl1 as it is not required for the mayonnaise1 but comes in handy for other culinary purposes4 ,he now1 with the yolk in one half of the shell1 poured away all the white remaining in the other half4 ,next he dexterously turned the yolk into this latter emptied shell and then got rid of the white left in the half previously occupied by the yolk4 ,one egg was thus served in this way1 and then the other1 and the two yolks were slipped into the bowl and broken up with a few stirs of the egg-whisk4 ,this latter is readily purchased from any ironmonger for the modest sum of one shilling4 ,the next proceeding was a wrinkle which is worth knowing1 and it consisted of placing1 within the bowl about a salt-spoonful of the ordinary dry mustard4 ,this was well beaten up in a second or two4 ,about a tablespoonful of good vinegar was next added1 the whisk going vigorously to work1 and thus blending well together egg yolk1 dry mustard1 and vinegar4 ,at this stage occurred a sort of halt or breathing time in the manipulation1 as the chief peculiarity of the mayonnaise now began4 ,the ,,chef1 with his left hand1 managed to tilt up the salad bowl and to hold a bottle of salad oil at the same time4 ,the latter being inverted1 he kept it over the contents of the bowl in such a way as to allow only a drop or so of the oil to escape at a time4 ,drip1 drip1 drip1 went the oil1 and as his right hand kept unceasingly plying the mixture with the whisk ,i could not help noticing what a fine wristy action he had4 ,almost directly as the oil touched it the mayonnaise began to thicken1 to swell1 and to change in colour4 ,the remorseless whisk almost seemed to lash it into foam1 and now the oil came faster and faster till the amber-looking sauce was ready1 and all this within the space of at most two or three minutes4 ,i suppose he must have used quite a teacupful of olive oil4 ,only one thing more3 after stirring in a sufficient quantity of pepper and salt1 the ,,chef desired me to taste the result1 and as ,i did so ,i read the triumph in his eye--it was superb4 ,it has been my aim1 indeed my only aim1 all through this chapter1 to bring into prominence the important fact that the salad is a dish which is at once within the reach of every family1 and moreover that it is one which is fairly a necessity in our semi-tropical climate4 ,for these very reasons1 consequently1 ,i have endeavoured to give the fullest directions for the mixing of a simple salad4 ,but it may be that after becoming thoroughly expert at making this latter1 and being flushed with success1 the aspirant for saladic honours will be desirous of a more ambitious essay4 ,some instructions for the famous herring salad have therefore been added1 and it can be reserved for high days and holidays1 or as a lordly dish wherewith to entertain a much-esteemed guest4 ,it is slightly altered from a valuable recipe given to me by my very good friend ,mr4 ,ludwig ,bruck1 and is made as follows3-- ,two salt ,dutch herrings are to be obtained4 ,these are imported in casks1 and when purchased have a somewhat pronounced odour1 which is removed by the soaking4 ,if milt herrings are used1 the milt should be moistened with a little vinegar and rubbed up into a paste1 and this should be kept to pour over the salad just before the dressing is added4 ,if roe herrings are bought1 the roe should be soaked in vinegar for a few minutes1 the eggs then separated and kept for sprinkling over the salad similarly to the preceding4 ,the herring heads and tails are to be removed and discarded2 the bodies should be gutted1 skinned1 and washed1 and then they must be soaked in water or milk for three hours-- the latter enhancing the flavour greatly4 ,after the soaking the bones should be removed and the flesh cut into small dice-like cubical pieces1 and the latter are then set aside in a basin4 ,the next thing is to peel and core two sourish apples1 and then to cut them up into small cubes like the herrings4 ,to the apples should ,,dow be added two pickled gherkins1 and1 if you like1 some boiled beetroot and a few capers1 and these--excepting1 of course1 the capers--should be divided into the same small pieces4 ,if you wish to have the real herring salad1 a quarter of a pound of cold roast veal1 also in small pieces1 will likewise be required4 ,whatever you may choose to use of these is now to be well mixed together while the next direction is attended to4 ,it is only fair to note here that ,mr4 ,lang1 formerly of the ,german ,club1 who prepares the best herring salads in ,sydney1 always adds a little cold roast beef1 cold ham1 and boiled ox tongue4 ,while all this is being prepared two potatoes should be boiled with their jackets on4 ,they should then be immediately peeled and cut up into small pieces like the other ingredients4 ,while now hot the potato is added to the preceding1 and everything is thoroughly mixed together2 it is necessary to use the potato warm1 for if cold it would set hard4 ,the methods of using the milt or the roe of the herring have already been respectively indicated1 and after this matter has been attended to1 all that is now needful to complete the herring salad is to pour over it some mayonnaise sauce1 the preparation of which has been previously described4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,on ,,australian ,,wine1 ,,and ,,its ,,place ,,in ,,the ,,australian ,,daily ,,dietary4 ,,with ,,time ,,and ,,care ,,australia ,,ought ,,to ,,be ,,the ,,vineyard ,,of ,,the ,,world4-- ,,greater ,,britain4 ,were ,i asked to name the one industry on which the prosperity of ,australia must sooner or later rest1 ,i should unhesitatingly answer1 ,on the cultivation of the vine4 ,and this must be so2 for while there is every reason to know that it will be called for from abroad1 it is absolutely certain that it will be required in our own territories4 ,the chief purpose of this chapter1 indeed1 is to insist upon the value of our own wines as the most healthful and the most wholesome drink for ,australian use4 ,it is a strange anomaly this1 that at the present period of our existence a declaration of this kind should be necessary4 ,yet it is only in keeping with the rest of our food habits1 with their perpetual challenge to our semi-tropical environment2 and hence we are confronted with the astounding fact that although we are practically ,southern ,europe1 yet we follow a mode of living suitable only for a rigorous climate and a land of ice and snow4 ,moreover1 as ,i shall attempt to show1 the ,australian climate and soil are beyond all question naturally intended for the cultivation of the grape1 so that there is no occasion to overcome the forces of nature2 on the contrary1 they are unceasingly giving us the greatest encouragement4 ,then1 again1 think what widespread prosperity the use of our own wine would bring about4 ,apart from its beneficial influence on the national health1 it would cover the land with smiling vineyards1 and give to enormous numbers a healthy livelihood2 it would absorb thousands from the fever and fret of city wear and tear into the more natural life of the country2 and lastly1 it would relieve the abnormal congestion of our crowded centres1 and do more to bring about widely distributed employment than any other industry4 ,the history of the introduction of the grape to ,australian soil deserves more than bare reference to that event ,it will be remembered that ,captain ,cook discovered this territory in #aggj2 in ,november #agia1 barely more than twenty years afterwards1 the first vine was planted at ,parramatta1 near ,sydney4 ,nothing can demonstrate the suitability of the climate and the soil for its cultivation more than this one fact1 namely1 that at the very beginning of ,australian settlement it was plain enough that the land was meant for the grape2 and there is an interesting historical association1 well worthy of note1 attached to this circumstance4 ,by order of the ,emperor ,napoleon1 the ,great ,napoleon1 a voyage of discovery to the ,southern ,hemisphere was performed by a fully equipped expedition during the years #ahja1 #ahjb1 #ahjc1 and #ahjd4 ,one of the naturalists1 ,m4,f4 ,peron1 has given us an excellent account of his ,new ,south ,wales experience1 and after referring to the ,parramatta vineyards as likely to be followed by the most excellent results1 he goes on to say3--,by one of those chances which are inconceivable1 ,great ,britain is the only one of the great maritime powers which does not cultivate the vine either in her own territories or her colonies1 notwithstanding the consumption of wine on board her fleets and throughout her vast regions is immense4 ,this is another illustration of the old adage that lookers-on see most of the game1 for this observant ,frenchman has recorded an opinion the very truth of which comes well home to us4 ,his remarks1 moreover1 open up a vista of what a great trade might be done with ,india in connection with our wines2 indeed1 it is this interchange of products which keeps the circulation going in the blood-vessels of commercial life4 ,yet1 although the vine was thus early started in ,australia1 it has since made but little progress1 relatively speaking1 in comparison with the great industry of wool-growing1 and it will be appropriate to make this reference to the grape and the fleece conjointly1 for the same name--that of ,john ,macarthur--is intimately associated with both4 ,in a small way sheep-breeding had been initiated soon after the settlement of ,australia4 ,but it was ,john ,macarthur1 by his introduction of the merino sheep in #agig1 who gave the first impetus which led to the subsequent creation of the ,australian wool trade4 ,it was ,john ,macarthur1 too1 who formed the first vineyard in ,australia at ,camden ,park in #ahae2 though1 as ,i have already said1 the growth of the vine industry has not advanced with anything like the same rapidity as that of wool2 if it had1 ,australia would now occupy a position second to none in the world4 ,it seems most fitting and opportune also to mention the fact that at the very time ,i am writing there is a proposal in the ,,sydney ,,morning ,,herald to do something to perpetuate our gratitude to ,john ,macarthur4 ,it is not often that one man has the opportunity of establishing two such great industries as wine-making and wool-growing4 ,the benefits to ,australia which have followed from the latter are altogether beyond calculation2 for which alone the name of ,john ,macarthur deserves to hold a place in the memory of ,australians for ever1 and if the wine industry had only been developed in like proportion1 ,australia's prosperity would have marvellously increased4 ,knowing1 therefore1 what ,john ,macarthur has done for ,australia1 it is to be hoped that before these lines see the light of day what is now proposed will be an accomplished fact4 ,the next most notable occurrence in the history of ,australian viticulture is undoubtedly the action of ,james ,busby who in #ahbh1 says ,mr4 ,t4,a4 ,coghlan in his ,,wealth ,,and ,,progress ,,of ,,new ,,south ,,wales1 returned from ,europe with a large collection of cuttings from the most celebrated vineyards of ,france1 ,spain1 the ,rhine valley1 and other parts of the continent of ,europe1 and started1 on his estate at ,kirkton1 in the ,hunter ,river district1 a vineyard which has been the nursery of the principal vineyards of the ,colony4 ,this was a more important event than would be imagined from a bare recital of the fact1 for ,busby has conferred upon ,australian vines a high quality for all time to come in this way4 ,his collection of cuttings from the best of the vineyards in ,europe consisted of the choicest varieties or cepages1 and this has been a matter for congratulation ever since4 ,fuller reference1 however1 will be made to this important subject a little farther on4 what is certainly interesting also is that ,busby was so impressed with the future of the ,australian wine industry that in #ahcj he published his ,,manual ,,of ,,plain ,,directions ,,for ,,planting ,,and ,,cultivating ,,vineyards1 ,,and ,,for ,,making ,,wine1 ,,in ,,new ,,south ,,wales2 and1 as ,i have just said1 the high qualities of our wines are due to him alone1 so that the name of ,james ,busby must always be gratefully remembered by all ,australians4 ,it makes one think that these sturdy pioneers of former times had a greater belief in ,australia and her possibilities1 and more energy and foresight1 than are apparently possessed nowadays4 ,but while ,i am on the subject of the literature of ,australian viticulture ,i must not forget to mention an excellent little pamphlet by ,james ,king in #ahjg1 entitled1 ,,australia ,,may ,,be ,,an ,,extensive ,,wine-,,growing ,,country4 ,indeed1 ,james ,king was another of those far-seeing men who were convinced that there was a great future for the ,australian wine industry2 moreover1 he did a good deal in the way of developing it by cultivating the grape and by making wine4 ,now1 there are certain figures connected with vine-growing and the consumption of wine which possess a great value in relation to ,australian viticulture1 inasmuch as they enable us to see more clearly its relative progress1 and1 what is more1 they indicate its future possibilities4 ,it is only by methods of this kind that we are enabled to form an accurate estimate of the condition of any industry4 ,and besides this1 too1 they act as a--stimulus to increased exertion4 ,but it will be still more interesting and instructive to make a comparison between the little which has been done in wine production and the almost incredible proportions of our wool industry4 ,and when it is remembered that there was nothing to prevent the wine trade from attaining a magnitude very like to that of wool1 it will be seen what magnificent opportunities have thus far been practically thrown away4 ,at present the whole of ,australia annually produces only a little more than three million gallons of wine1 while the yearly yield of ,france is #gie2 of ,italy1 #gih2 of ,spain1 #fjh2 of ,hungary1 #ahj2 and of ,portugal1 #acb million gallons4 ,and another thing is that the whole of the five colonies of ,australia and ,tasmania have altogether no more than #dh1jii acres under vine cultivation4 ,the total amount of wine made in the six foregoing colonies for the year ending ,march #cast1 #ahib1 was only #c1fjd1bfb gallons4 ,the city of ,paris itself requires nearly #cjj1jjj gallons of wine daily1 so that this single city would consume in #ab ,,days all the wine which the whole of ,australia takes #ab ,,months to make4 ,so far back as #ahge the production was #a1had1djj1fjb gallons4 ,and lastly1 there is just one more fact worth remembering which is that the approximate value of the #ahij vintage to ,france was nearly #dj1jjj1jjj l4 sterling4 ,let us see1 on the other hand1 the gigantic strides on the part of wool4 ,in #ahje the amount of wool exported from ,spain was #f1hie1ebe lbs41 and from ,australia ,,nil4 ,in #ahaa1 however1 ,australia exported the modest quantity of #afg lbs4 ,in #ahfa the exportation from ,spain had fallen to #a1bfh1fag lbs41 while from ,australia it had increased to #fh1dbh1jjj lbs4 ,in #ahia ,new ,south ,wales alone produced #ceg1jif1ied lbs41 representing a value of #aa1jcf1jah l4 ,and lastly1 the wool exportation of ,australia and ,tasmania 7not reckoning ,new ,zealand7 for the same year reached the enormous figures of #eic1hcj1aec lbs41 with a value of #bj1efi1jic l4 ,the disproportion between the attention which has been given to viticulture and that which has been bestowed upon wool-growing is well brought out in the following table3-- ,,table showing the value of the total amount of ,,wine produced in the ,,five ,,colonies ,,of ,,australia 7including both that for local use and that for export7 for the year ending ,march #cast1 #ahib2 and the value of ,,wool 7only that exported1 and therefore irrespective of that locally required7 for the ,,five ,,australian ,,colonies and ,,tasmania alone1 and not including that exported from ,,new ,,zealand1 for the year #ahia3-- ,pounds 7value74 ,total value of ,australian wine 7local use as well as export7 produced for the year ending ,march #cast1 #ahib1 only about4444444444#hjj1jjj ,value of wool exported from ,australia and ,tasmania alone in #ahia 7and therefore irrespective of the additional value of that locally required71 not less than44444444444444444444444444444444#bj1 efi1jic ,from the foregoing1 therefore1 it will be apparent that the whole subject of ,australian viticulture is one of tremendous importance2 and ,i am strongly of opinion that practical results will only be brought about by awakening in the mind of the ,australian public an active interest in everything connected with this1 though yet undeveloped1 great wine industry4 ,with that object in view1 therefore1 it will be my endeavour to bring forward those main points of viticulture which it is most desirable should be widely known4 ,but such an attempt1 to be successful1 must largely depend upon the arrangement which is adopted1 for it is impossible to do more than take up the principal matters concerned with the space which is at my disposal4 ,the scheme which has been devised will1 it is hoped1 help to a clear understanding of the subject4 ,,the ,,climate4 ,if there is one reason more than any other why the wine industry should sorely reach to colossal dimensions1 it is that the climate is naturally adapted for the cultivation of the vine4 ,although human effort and human skill can overcome what looked to be almost insuperable difficulties1 they cannot1 as we know1 fight against climate4 ,hence1 having a climate created1 as it were1 for the growth of the grape1 there can be no possible excuse offered for its neglect4 ,indeed1 as ,i have already shown1 the suitableness of the climate for this purpose directly attracted the attention of the first arrivals1 and as a consequence the vine was actually planted a few years after the discovery of ,australia4 ,there are three constituents1 namely1 heat1 light1 and moisture1 which in varying proportions make up what is known as climate4 ,the first two1 heat and light1 are derived from the same source--the sun--and may1 therefore1 be conveniently considered together4 ,the more heat and light a vine receives the more vigorously it grows4 ,what is more important1 however1 is that the wine from it becomes stronger4 ,it gains in strength because the percentage of glucose increases in the must3 the must being the juice pressed from the grape1 but in which fermentation has not commenced4 ,accordingly we find that the wines of the warmer regions in new ,south ,wales1 ,victoria1 and ,south ,australia are much stronger than those from the cooler parts4 ,it is important to remember that the unripe berries of the grape contain several acids1 notably tartaric1 citric1 and malic acids4 ,as the fruit begins to ripen1 these acids act upon the various substances1 namely1 starch1 gum1 dextrine1 lignine1 cellulose1 c41 also contained within it1 and grape sugar or glucose is formed in consequence with the advent of ripening1 therefore1 the fruit becomes richer in sugar and poorer in acids2 part of the acids1 in addition1 is neutralised by the mineral salts which are absorbed by the roots4 ,these acids1 however1 are not so thoroughly neutralised in a cooler climate1 and as a result the wine has often a sour1 crude taste4 ,the warmer the climate the more alcohol the wine will contain2 indeed1 it may become too strong4 ,on the contrary1 the cooler the climate the more of acid there will be1 and it may possess in consequence a crude1 sharp taste4 ,but these are matters which can be rectified by choosing the right varieties of grape for the different localities1 and by their proper cultivation4 ,the third element concerned in the climate1 namely1 moisture1 has now to be considered1 and it is important from the fact that in a moister climate the percentages both of glucose and of acids in the grape are diminished4 ,it is also important for another reason1 namely1 that while heat and light are unalterable1 moisture may be produced by irrigation4 ,this constitutes one of the vexed questions connected with viticulture1 and the most diverse opinions have been expressed about it4 ,some believe that irrigation is of great value1 while others cannot say enough against it4 ,but it would seem that when judiciously employed it is of unquestionable advantage4 ,it renders the cultivation of the grape possible in places where it would otherwise be impossible2 it largely increases the yield2 and1 what certainly must not be forgotten1 it enables a lighter wine to be produced in the warmer regions4 ,and another argument in favour of irrigation is this1 that there is far more fertilizing matter in river water than in rain water4 ,hence it is that irrigation greatly enriches the land and increases the yield4 ,it is thus a powerful aid1 and because its advantages have been abused1 that is no reason why it should not be made use of in a rational and scientific manner4 ,there is still another matter connected with this question of climate1 namely1 the aspect of the vineyard1 which should be referred to because many different views are held upon it4 ,but1 as in all similar cases where there are such decidedly antagonistic opinions1 it will be found that the arguments are not maintained from the same standpoint4 ,so in this case the importance or non-importance of the aspect depends altogether upon the climate1 and upon the locality--whether it be level or hilly4 ,on level ground the aspect is not nearly so important4 ,on hilly land it makes a considerable difference1 from this circumstance1 that in ,australia the northern side of a hill is always hotter than that facing the south4 ,in the hot regions1 therefore1 a hill slope facing towards the south is preferable2 while in the cooler districts1 since more warmth is required1 a situation with a northern aspect is necessary4 ,it is often said that hilly ground is better for the cultivation of the vine than level land4 ,this is certainly true as far as cold localities are concerned1 because a warmer aspect can then be chosen1 and there will also be more shelter and better drainage4 ,,the ,,soil4 ,people as a rule run away with the idea that the soil for the grape must necessarily be of a rich character4 ,even the farmer1 thinking of wheat growing1 and the market-gardener1 thinking of his turnips1 are apt to entertain a similar belief4 ,but the truth is that the vine is a hardy plant and will grow in almost any place that is not water-logged or otherwise unsuitable4 ,in ,america the definition of a soil adapted for the grape is expressed in the following phrase3--,land that is suitable for vine-glowing is land that is not suitable for anything else4 ,this is of course an extravagant way of stating the matter1 still it is worth recalling4 ,we may say this much1 however1 that almost any soil will do for the vine1 provided that it does not bake and crack in the summer1 nor get wet and boggy in the winter4 ,a simple test is said to be adopted by the vine-growers of the ,rhine4 ,a specimen of the soil is put into an earthenware vessel into which boiling water is poured to cover it1 after which it is undisturbed for three days4 ,if the water on being tasted gives a mouldy or salty taste1 the soil is believed to be unsuitable4 ,in considering the soil we must pay heed to its physical and its chemical characters4 ,by its physical characters we mean its looseness or stiffness1 its depth1 and its colour4 ,this looseness is a matter of much importance4 ,it fulfils the great indication required in a soil for grape-growing2 that is1 a soil which will not remain damp after having been well wet4 ,there is a marked difference between a stiff clayey soil which dries up and cracks in summer1 and a loose soil which is always moist a little below the surface4 ,the depth of the soil is a matter that varies in accordance with the climate4 ,in warm districts the vine requires more room for development1 and goes deeper4 ,in the cooler regions it has a sufficiency of moisture1 and can content itself with a shallower soil4 ,the colour of the soil1 like its depth1 is a matter of consequence according to the climate4 ,a dark soil absorbs heat1 becoming hotter consequently1 while it reflects but little on the plant above4 ,on the other hand1 a light-coloured soil absorbs very little heat1 but reflects almost the whole of the rays upwards upon the vine4 ,from this it follows that a dark soil is better in a cooler climate1 because there is generally an excess of moisture2 while a light colour is more suitable in the warm regions1 for the moisture is then retained4 ,the chemical constituents of the soil play no inconsiderable part in assisting the development of the vine4 ,of these1 however1 there are only five--namely1 nitrogen1 phosphorus1 potash1 calcium1 and iron-- to which it is necessary to draw attention4 ,for the successful cultivation of wheat and other cereals a richly nitrogenous soil is invaluable2 for turnips and maize one rich in phosphorus is of great advantage2 but for the vine potash is of considerable importance4 ,it is true that nitrogen and phosphorus are necessary for the production of the vine wood1 but it is for the fruit itself that the potash is so much required4 ,as it is well known1 the deposit known as winestone or cream of tartar1 on the inside of the cask by the fermentation of wine1 is really tartrate of potash4 ,in a similar way the potato is a plant which requires a supply of potash1 and without it there is a manifest diminution in the crop4 ,but in the case of the vine1 unless there is a sufficiency of potash1 the leaves do not attain to their full development2 the stem is stunted to one-fourth of its natural size2 and there is little or no fruit at all4 ,calcium or lime has a marked effect in increasing the strength of the wine4 ,for this reason1 therefore1 this element is more necessary in the cooler than in the warm regions4 ,and finally1 there is that other chemical constituent of the soil1 which deserves a brief notice1 and it is iron4 ,now1 the presence of iron therein has a distinct effect in deepening the colour of a wine4 ,this is without doubt the reason why our ,australian wines1 as a general rule1 are so rich in colour4 ,,cepage1 ,,or ,,variety4 ,many words connected with viticulture are of ,french origin1 as might be expected considering that it is a land where the wine industry is such a source of wealth4 ,the term cepage 7pronounced say-pazh7 is one of these1 and it possesses quite a distinctive and particular significance1 so that a little explanation is necessary4 ,the vine family is divided into several species1 of which the ordinary grape vine1 ,,vitis ,,vinifera1 is the most important4 ,of the ,,vitis ,,vinifera there are many1 more or less distinct1 sorts of cepages2 and the value of the word lies in the fact that it serves as a means of distinguishing all these different varieties4 ,originally a native of ,asia ,minor1 there are now over a thousand sorts of ,european vines4 ,of these quite a number are already cultivated in ,australia1 and a brief reference to a few will help to a better understanding of the term cepage4 ,of the red grapes the following may be instanced3--,the ,carbenet 7pronounced ,car'-ben-ay72 of which-there are two varieties1 the ,,gros or large1 and the ,,sauvignon or smaller kind4 ,the latter is perhaps the choicest of all the red wine grapes1 and has a characteristic flavour1 with delicious bouquet and perfume4 ,it forms the basis of all the best vineyards of ,bordeaux1 and is largely cultivated in ,australia1 for it does well in the cooler parts4 ,and it will be just as well to take this opportunity of referring to the word ,carbenet1 as in ,australia it is much too often erroneously spelt ,cabernet4 ,the best authorities1 however1 are all in favour of ,carbenet as the proper mode of spelling4 ,in the same way an unfortunate orthography in the case of ,riesling1 which was given as ,reisling in the ,london exhibition of #ahhf1 gave a writer in the ,,saturday ,,review the opportunity of a tirade against ,australian wine-makers4 ,the ,pinot 7pronounced ,peen'-o7 ,noir or ,noirier will serve excellently to demonstrate the significance of the word cepage4 ,this is the dominating grape of the best vineyards of ,burgundy1 and enters into the composition of many famous wines1 such as ,romanee-,conti ,chambertin1 ,corton1 c42 just as the ,carbenet ,sauvignon belongs to the renowned clarets of ,bordeaux1 ,chateau ,margaux1 ,chateau ,lafitte1 and ,chateau ,latour4 ,this black ,burgundy does well in our cooler regions1 and is usually pruned short1 although it gives far better results with long pruning4 ,shiraz 7pronounced ,shir-az'7 is another red variety which is extensively cultivated in ,australia4 ,it is the grape from which the celebrated ,hermitage red wine of ,france is made1 and was first planted by a monk1 who brought the cuttings from ,shiraz1 in ,persia4 ,it is one of our most reliable red varieties1 and prospers best in a moderate temperature4 ,but the white varieties will perhaps afford us a better idea of the expression cepage1 for three different varieties may be adduced1 whose characteristics are well known4 ,first of all there is ,riesling 7pronounced ,rees'-ling1 but too often1 as ,i have just mentioned1 erroneously spelt ,reisling71 whose prototype is that delicate ,riesling of the ,rhine1 from which those famous wines of the ,rheingau1 namely ,steinberg1 ,marcobrunner1 ,johannisberg1 as well as ,hock1 are made4 ,it is probably the best of our white wines1 and does well in the cooler districts4 ,but it should be borne in mind that long pruning is indispensable for it1 as it gives very poor crops when pruned short4 ,then we have ,tokay 7pronounced ,tok'-ay71 so nearly corresponding to the ,furmint1 which is the chief grape grown in the well-known ,tokay vineyards of ,hungary4 ,it yields a most excellent wine1 and does well in the same regions as the preceding4 ,and lastly1 ,verdeilho 7pronounced ,ver-dell'-o7 deserves to be referred to amongst the white wines4 ,it is the principal white variety grown in ,madeira1 and ,madeira is a wine that is especially held in repute4 ,it is better suited for the warm districts1 and requires to be completely ripe before vintage4 ,it was a most fortunate thing for ,australia1 therefore1 that her pioneers in viticulture were men like ,james ,busby1 who obtained their plants from the finest cepages in ,europe4 ,and this is a magnificent legacy which must inevitably exercise a powerful influence for ever on the ,australian vine4 ,mr4 ,hubert de ,castella drew special attention to this very fact in his paper read before the ,royal ,colonial ,institute1 ,london1 in #ahhh3 so that a beginning was made under the most auspicious conditions4 ,there are some interesting facts in connection with the different cepages which are certainly worth noticing4 ,if the climate and the soil in one place be similar to the climate and soil in another1 each variety--,,le ,,cepage--of the grape will always produce the same wine4 ,thus some vineyards on the ,yarra1 ,victoria1 having a similar climate and similar soil to one of the great ,bordeaux districts of ,france1 produced a wine hardly to be distinguished from that of the latter4 ,then1 again1 one vine may produce a choice wine in one locality1 but only an indifferent growth in another2 and1 conversely1 a different cepage which does well in the latter region is almost a failure in the former4 ,for instance1 in ,france1 the ,gamay in the ,beaujolais district1 in which the soil is granitic1 gives a superior wine to the ,pinot2 but1 on the other hand1 the ,pinot in the ,burgundy country1 where there is a limestone formation1 gives forth a world-famous wine1 whilst the ,gamay is nowhere in comparison4 ,next1 it is necessary to remember that the effect of a warmer climate is to increase the alcoholic strength of a wine4 ,at the same time1 however1 it must not be forgotten that this effect is greater in some varieties than in others4 ,one cepage1 giving in a cool region a wine of #ah per cent4 of alcohol1 when transported to a warmer locality may show an increase to #bf per cent4 of alcohol4 ,another cepage1 showing #bj per cent4 in the lower temperature1 may only develop #bc per cent4 in the hotter districts4 ,it will be evident from the preceding that the greatest discrimination is necessary in the selection of the variety for any particular region2 and from the knowledge at present at the vine-grower's command he can do no more than form an approximate opinion of the cepage likely to suit his locality best4 ,it is recommended1 therefore1 that new planters1 before starting their vineyards1 should carefully observe what varieties are giving the best results at any neighbouring vineyards2 if some appear to be doing better than others1 they should stick to the successful kinds4 ,and again1 it is advisable that they should be chary of what plants other wine-growers extol1 when perhaps the latter are in another part of the country altogether and under totally different conditions of climate and soil4 ,instead of committing themselves to a large purchase1 therefore1 they should plant a selection of several varieties1 and find out those which are the most suitable4 ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,the ,,grape--,,the ,,preparation ,,of ,,the ,,soil4 ,it is not my purpose to enter fully into the entire subject of grape-growing1 for that is too extensive to be dealt with here2 nevertheless1 there are many points about it of ,australian concern1 over which there has been considerable discussion4 ,this shows that our vignerons1 instead of placidly following out old lines1 are determined to find out for themselves the methods which will give the best results4 ,that such a spirit is in active existence is unquestionably a source of satisfaction to those who have the welfare of ,australian viticulture at heart1 for it is only by a determination to find out the best course to be pursued in the many points connected with grape-growing1 and more especially with wine-making1 that we can hope to reach perfection4 ,and although we have the climate1 and the soil1 and everything in our favour1 yet it must be recollected that there are vignerons of the very highest excellence in the old wine-making countries1 and that it will only be by surpassing them that we can hope to secure the markets of the world4 ,as ,i have already said1 my own belief is that the best way of infusing vigour into our wine-making industry is to arouse public interest in the subject2 and with that object in view1 therefore1 ,i shall endeavour to bring forward those matters which are of ,australian viticultural importance4 ,even at the outset we come against a disputed point1 about which there has been1 and is still1 considerable diversity of opinion4 ,it is to what depth the ground should be cultivated4 ,on the one hand1 there are some who affirm that a shallow depth of #h or #i inches1 or even of #f inches1 is quite a sufficient penetration of the soil for most land2 but1 on the other1 there are many who1 while conceding the fact that a superficial cultivation like this may be successful for a few years1 are strongly opinioned that a deeper working is eventually necessary4 ,more than this1 they contend that1 even admitting good results were obtained by simple ploughing1 yet they would have been still better with a deeper working4 ,it would seem1 however1 that climate has a good deal to do with the matter4 ,in the hot districts the vine attains a far greater development than in the cooler parts1 and the roots require a deep soil4 ,and besides this1 in the warm regions the wine is naturally too strong1 and the deeper the soil is worked the lighter the wine will be4 ,but there is one thing in particular which should not be overlooked1 and it is that the land should be in a state of fine sub-division4 ,one ,american writer insists that the ground before planting should be as fine as bolted flour4 ,this expression serves very well to show the importance of a thorough pulverisation of the soil2 and the best results are certainly obtained 4where this is energetically carried out4 ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,the ,,grape--,,laying ,,out ,,the ,,vineyard4 ,the next thing in order is that of laying out the vineyard1 in which it will be desirable to consider what distance apart the vines are to be planted4 ,this matter of spacing the vines is one about which there is still considerable disagreement2 and the question as to whether they should be planted near to one another1 or far apart1 is yet unsettled4 ,but the truth is no inflexible rule can be laid down1 as the climate1 the soil1 and the cepage all exercise a controlling influence4 ,it seems to be generally admitted that in the warm districts the vines should be planted farther apart than in the cooler regions4 ,in a hot climate the vigour of the plant is increased by the great amount of light and heat which it receives4 ,the must will be too strong1 therefore1 and it is only by planting the vines at a greater distance apart than usual1 and also by pruning very long1 that the resulting wine will be rendered sufficiently light in strength4 ,in a cooler region1 on the other hand1 where the vigour of the plant is less1 the crop on each vine must be reduced by short pruning1 so as to increase the percentage of glucose in the must and ensure a good wine4 ,and where the size of the plant is lessened by this method of pruning1 the vines must be placed closer together in order to make use of all the available soil4 ,this latter itself has also to be thought of in this matter of spacing the vines4 ,in a rich soil1 where the vigour of the plant is increased1 the vines should be placed farther apart2 in a poor soil1 on the contrary1 they should be planted closer together4 ,mr4 ,francois de ,castella1 formerly ,expert to the ,board of ,viticulture1 the author of ,,the ,,handbook ,,on ,,viticulture ,,for ,,victoria1 and who is now the proprietor of the ,tongala vineyard1 in an instructive article on viticulture in ,victoria lays down the following rules with regard to the spacing of vines3--,,there ,,is ,,for ,,each ,,locality1 ,,with ,,the ,,same ,,conditions ,,of ,,soil ,,and ,,climate1 ,a ,,certain ,,distance1 ,,we ,,may ,,call ,,the ,,optimum1 ,,at ,,which ,,vines ,,will ,,thrive ,,best2 ,,if ,,this ,,distance ,,be ,,increased ,,they ,,will ,,not ,,improve1 ,,and ,,may ,,even ,,deteriorate4 ,unless this be a distance which cannot conveniently be worked by horse labour1 it would evidently be a waste of land to plant any wider1 and would entail the use of unnecessary labour for its cultivation4 ,it would be just as foolish to plant vines any closer than this1 as it would give unnecessary pruning1 disbudding1 tying up1 c4--that is1 if the climate be such that grapes will ripen satisfactorily4 ,i have come to the conclusion that in our district 7,lilydale1 a cool region7 the optimum distance is #d #a_/b by #d #a_/b feet1 practically #b1jjj vines per acre1 at least in the poorer soils2 and1 after careful observation1 ,i am of opinion that vines planted any wider will not bear more fruit4 ,this is1 however1 rather too close to be conveniently worked by horse labour4 ,i should1 therefore1 recommend #e by #e feet4 ,but on the ,murray 7a warm region7 this distance would not suit at all1 and ,i believe that the vine-growers are right to plant #h by #h1 and even #aj by #aj feet1 in that district4 ,in conclusion1 ,i would advise every vine-grower starting in a new district to determine by experiment what is his optimum distance4 ,he can make a pretty good guess from observations of soil and climate1 and for the rest let him1 instead of planting all his vineyard on one scale1 plant different blocks at different distances apart1 so that if he wishes to extend his vineyard later on he may know what is the most suitable way to do so4 ,by a careful consideration of these and other points which regulate the growth and development of the vine1 and a practical application of the deductions drawn from them1 it is possible for the intelligent vigneron to obtain from his land a maximum of return with a minimum of labour1 and also to regulate the strength of his wine so as to suit the requirements of trade1 thus making viticulture one of the most remunerative as well as most attractive branches of agriculture4 ,in ,france1 especially in the northern districts1 the vines are placed much closer together than ever they are in ,australia1 and this means that only hand labour can be employed4 ,but it has to be remembered that the scarcity of manual labour with us makes it necessary to arrange the vineyard with enough width between the plants for a horse4 rt is desirable1 however1 not to go to the other extreme and space the vines at too great a distance from each other2 indeed1 in favour of a closer planting1 the following influencing circumstances should be borne in mind4 ,in the elevated regions1 where the rainfall is ample1 the vines may be planted closer together than on the plains or on the lower slopes2 firstly1 because there is no fear as to a sufficiency of water2 and secondly1 for the reason that the vines1 by being nearer together1 protect one another from the inclement weather4 ,spring frosts also are very liable to occur in certain localities2 and here again the vines1 by being brought closer together1 afford shelter to each other from the direct rays of the sun1 which are particularly injurious when coming on top of a severe frost4 ,then again1 although some believe that in dry districts it is better to give each vine plenty of space1 yet there are others who are of opinion that a closer formation is rather an advantage4 ,and on this account3 that since the roots come in contact with one another1 they are compelled to strike deeper in search of water--just in the very place it is desirable they should go4 ,in addition to the foregoing1 it must not be forgotten that a dark-coloured soil absorbs more of the sun's heat than one of lighter colour2 just as a dark coat is hotter to wear than a light-coloured one4 ,for this reason1 therefore1 it is better for the plants to be closer together in a dark soil1 since the shadow of the vines will then be over the root-producing areas4 ,in the ,,south ,,australia ,,vinegrowers' ,,manual1 which has been prepared by ,mr4 ,george ,sutherland1 under instructions from the ,government of ,south ,australia1 the author expresses this conviction3 ,that a very large proportion of the new vineyards of ,south ,australia will be planted wide1 especially in the warmer districts and on the lower rises of the foothills2 but that after all #f feet may be found the most suitable on more elevated localities1 where we shall have to look for some of the best wines of the claret and hock type4 ,one leading ,californian authority1 according1 to ,mr4 ,sutherland1 was a great advocate for wide planting4 ,after an exhaustive inquiry into the matter1 however1 throughout the wine-producing countries of ,europe1 he became quite converted1 and believed in closer planting4 ,mr4 ,francois de ,castella also records the fact that in a block of vines at ,st4 ,hubert's 7,lilydale1 ,victoria71 every second vine was rooted out on one-half of the block4 ,after ten years it was found that on the whole the closer wines had done better than those from which every alternate vine was rooted out4 ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,the ,,grape--,,whether ,,to ,,plant ,,cuttings ,,or ,,rooted ,,vines4 ,there is another somewhat disputed matter connected with viticulture1 which deserves a little notice2 and it is the relative merits of planting cuttings or rooted vines in the vineyard4 ,the majority of the witnesses examined by the ,royal ,commission on ,vegetable ,products in ,victoria1 #ahhi1 admitted that cuttings ultimately produced a better vine4 ,but1 as in some of the preceding points at issue1 may it not be that climate and soil have a great deal to do with the results8 ,signor ,romeo ,bragato1 the ,expert to the ,board of ,viticulture in ,victoria1 in his ,,hints ,,to ,,intending ,,vine-,,growers1 recommended cuttings1 not only for cheapness1 but because if planted in the vineyard at the first they did not require removal4 ,in the course of his advice he proceeded to remark3--,the ways used here and elsewhere by the vine-grower are two--namely1 by cuttings1 and rooted vines--but they do not always agree which of the two is the better4 ,there are many who say that1 for the new plantation1 rooted vines must be preferred2 others maintain that it is better to plant by cuttings1 because they grow more nourishing and give the vine a longer life4 ,both these methods are good and to be recommended2 but1 in a general way1 ,i would advise you to stick to the cuttings1 and that not only because by planting them you will have a sensible economy1 but also because if you plant the cuttings in the vineyard you will never have to more them4 ,if you use rooted vines1 it is impossible1 notwithstanding all your care and attention1 for you to carry them from the nursery to the vineyard without hurting their roots1 which are very delicate4 ,but if the ground which you intend to plant with vines were loose and arid1 then ,i would never hesitate to advise you to always use in that case rooted vines1 because the cuttings without roots would not absorb the rainy water which in such kind of soil runs away in the same time it takes to fall4 ,this is the reason why1 in such a soil1 the cuttings seldom strike4 ,on the selection of the cuttings depends the future of the vineyard1 but of this the vine-growers are not sufficiently persuaded1 because they do not pay all the attention required for this delicate operation4 ,in fact1 when in the vineyards in order to cut the cuttings1 they take the thin and thicks--those growths on the new wood and on the old--without making any distinction1 and without knowing if the old vine gives fruit or not4 ,many also1 without other care1 leave their cuttings in the vineyard for months exposed to the air1 sun1 and rain2 not thinking that the very porous wood gets dry very quickly1 and becomes weak near the buds4 ,others1 again1 buy their cuttings without knowing to what variety of vine they belong1 and how they were preserved4 ,it is not surprising1 therefore1 that these negligent vine-growers1 after having incurred great expense in preparing the soil and planting the vineyard1 besides having their vineyard planted with so many varieties1 are compelled to pull up a great number of cuttings that have not struck1 or1 having struck1 do not carry fruit4 ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,the ,,grape--,,the ,,height ,,of ,,the ,,vine ,,above ,,the ,,ground4 ,the young vine takes about four years to reach its fruit-bearing stage4 ,during this time the plant requires to be properly trained so as to obtain the best results from the growing grape4 ,now1 although there are many different systems of rearing vines1 yet in the main they consist of an upright stem or trunk1 and an upper part or crown--the latter varying considerably in shape4 ,thus we have the gooseberry-bush style1 which is employed for those vines requiring short pruning4 ,then there is the trellising style1 for the long-pruned varieties1 in which the vine is trained to a great distance along a wire4 ,indeed1 these two methods may be taken to represent the two main styles of training the vine2 although the different modifications used in various countries are almost endless4 ,there is1 however1 one important point which requires attention1 no matter what system is adopted1 and it is the height of the vine above the ground4 ,the nearer a vine is to the ground1 the more radiated light and heat it receives1 and as a consequence its resulting nine is stronger4 ,in vines so near the ground1 also1 the alkaline dust arising from the soil neutralises the natural acid of the fruit1 and prejudicially affects the fermentation of the wine4 ,as a matter of fact the earthy taste--,,gout ,,de ,,terroir--which is sometimes present in wine1 is believed to be caused by a certain amount of soil being present on the grapes during fermentation4 ,this must be looked to1 especially in the warmer districts1 where by giving the wine a greater distance above the ground1 a lighter1 more delicate1 and better wine1 quite free from the foregoing demerit1 is produced4 ,the testimony of experts throughout ,australia is unanimously in favour of raising the vine sufficiently above the ground1 so as to keep the grapes well off the soil1 and also to provide for the free circulation of air beneath4 ,it is true that in some parts of the ,continent the practice for ages has been to keep the vines well down against the earth4 ,but this is done to secure the advantages of the radiated heat1 and enable the grapes to ripen4 ,in ,australia1 however1 even in the elevated districts1 the sun is usually warm enough to ripen the grapes without this being necessary4 ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,the ,,grape--,,on ,,pruning4 ,before leaving these references to the growing of the grape ,i purpose making a few remarks upon pruning1 a subject which is as interesting as it is important4 ,the objects of pruning are manifold4 ,by it the cultivation of the wine is facilitated2 the best results are obtained from each variety of grape2 the yield is increased2 the product is more uniform in character2 and the quality of the wine is vastly improved4 ,but a great deal of the work of pruning is so entirely technical that it would utterly fail to possess any attraction for the general reader4 ,consequently ,i shall attempt no more than to briefly refer to those particular matters which are of ,australian concern4 ,now1 it is laid down as a rule for pruning that some vines should be pruned short1 while others require long pruning2 that is to say1 one variety of wine requires to be repressed1 as it were1 and in another the branches have to be kept long to produce a superior quality of wine4 ,the explanation is that while the sap is on its way through the roots1 the stem1 the branches1 and the shoots of the vine1 for the production of fruit1 it is distilled out1 so to speak1 during its passage from the earth to the fruit4 ,as ,mr4 ,george ,sutherland prettily puts it1 the grape is1 in fact1 the crowning product of the whole plant4 ,in this way1 the farther the sap has to travel through the whole vine on its way to the growing fruit1 the better will the resulting wine be4 ,to a certain extent this is true of all vines1 but more especially so in the case of ,shiraz and some of the ,pinots4 ,in various districts of ,france1 in order to bring the grape to perfection1 the vine-growers will train out their main branches along trellises to a length of #ej and even #fj feet1 so as to give the sap the longest possible distance to travel2 and1 further1 for the purpose of concentrating into the fruit the whole result of the wine1 all the buds and little shoots1 which would distract therefrom1 are carefully taken away4 ,this gives to the vine a very curious look1 but it serves well to illustrate how greatly wines differ as to whether they require short or long pruning4 ,it also helps to a better understanding of the two main styles of training the vine already mentioned1 namely1 the gooseberry bush and the trellising4 ,the fact that this elaboration of the sap in long-pruned vines requires a long distance to intervene between the roots and the fruit itself1 is one of considerable importance4 ,it is necessary to remember1 however1 that cultivation of this kind requires additional labour4 ,moreover1 one of the principal reasons why the short-pruned vine has become such a favourite in ,australia is that it is a labour-saving vine1 and therefore its adoption is almost a necessity4 ,but1 as ,mr4 ,sutherland remarks1 there is no doubt that ,australia can never hope to produce in any quantity the finest qualities of wine until the vignerons attend more to those practices which depend essentially upon the fundamental fact that the sap flows with different habits through different varieties of vines2 and1 therefore1 that some vines require short pruning1 while it is even more important to remember that others will only yield satisfactorily under a system of long pruning4 ,in a paper on viticulture1 at ,mildura1 which was drawn up for the ,royal ,commission on ,vegetable ,products in #ahij1 ,mr4 ,francois de ,castella1 a former expert to the ,board of ,viticulture1 ,victoria1 has condensed so much knowledge within a small compass that ,i have quoted the following3-- ,most of the settlers ,i met told me that they intended to prune their vines short4 ,now1 in my opinion1 they could not make a greater mistake --for wine-growing1 at least2 as for raisin-growing ,i have never taken any interest in the subject1 and1 having no experience1 do not wish to express an opinion on it4 ,i must say that all the settlers ,i had occasion to speak to were raisin-growers1 but ,i should warn any future wine-grower at ,mildura1 who may chance to read these few notes1 to beware of short pruning4 ,most of our vineyard labourers come from the cold parts of ,europe1 such as ,switzerland1 where grapes ripen with difficulty under ordinary circumstances1 and where the vine does not take any considerable development4 ,there1 short pruning has to be resorted to in order to make a drinkable wine4 ,when these men arrive in ,australia they bring all their old habits and prejudices with them1 and tell the inexperienced vineyard proprietor that long pruning weakens the vine4 ,the proprietor1 thinking that they know more about the subject than he does1 allows them to do as they like1 and they set to work to cut the vine down to such an extent that1 unable to take advantage of the genial climate to which it has been transplanted1 it gives only one-eighth or one-tenth of the quantity of grapes it could be made to bear with intelligent pruning1 besides being much weakened2 whereas long-pruning strengthens a vine if the climate be favourable to its development4 ,another disadvantage of short pruning in warm climates is the well-known fact that the less grapes you have on the vine1 the more glucose the must will contain2 therefore1 instead of making much more per acre of a drinkable wine1 which they easily could do1 they content themselves with a much smaller quantity per acre of a wine which ferments so badly that alcohol has to be added to prevent the production of lactic acid1 resulting from the excessive temperature reached during fermentation favouring the development of this particular germ4 ,the resulting wine1 a curious mixture of alcohol1 sugar1 lactic acid1 and water1 is most unpalatable1 sour1 uninviting1 and unwholesome4 besides ruining the name of ,australian wine when sold as such4 ,i may here warn vine-growers against the advice given to them by some would-be authorities1 who tell them they can make a light wine by picking grapes before they are ripe4 ,this is absurd4 ,the unripe grape contains a certain percentage of vegetable acids1 such as tartaric1 malic1 c41 c4 some of which are themselves converted into glucose during the process of ripening1 whilst others are eliminated after helping to transform the starch of the vegetable tissues into glucose4 ,it stands to reason that if the fruit be picked before complete maturity1 these acids1 which are not capable of fermenting1 will be found unchanged in the wine produced1 thereby rendering it acid and undrinkable4 ,it is1 of course1 necessary1 in warm climates1 to pick the grapes before they get over-ripe or shrivel up2 but it would be just as foolish to rush to the other extreme1 and pick the fruit too soon4 ,if1 instead of blindly following the mode of culture which has been adopted in a cold climate1 the vine-grower would listen to the dictates of reason1 and were to try a few inexpensive experiments1 he would soon find out his mistake1 and confer a boon on himself as well as on his neighbour1 not to speak of the consumers of his wine4 ,even in the cooler districts of ,victoria1 such as the ,yarra ,valley1 ,i do not know of any variety of vine which is weakened by long pruning1 even in a series of years2 while certain varieties are so influenced by short pruning as to bear no fruit at all4 ,if this be the case on the ,yarra1 how much more must it be so on the ,murray8 ,mr4 de ,castella then referred to some other matters connected with the practices followed at ,mildura1 and concluded with these encouraging words3-- ,i contend that no other culture will give such magnificent returns1 do so much good to a country1 or have greater attractions for the happy proprietor of the vineyard1 as there is no branch of agriculture which presents such a vast field for experimental research1 or which is so extensively benefited by the practical application of scientific laws and principles1 as viticulture4 ,,the ,,making ,,of ,,the ,,wine--,,the ,,cellar4 ,up till this time our whole attention has been taken up with everything that has to do with the production of the grape4 ,but with the gathering of the crop a complete change has taken place1 for nature no longer exercises such a controlling influence4 ,at this stage the art of winemaking really begins1 and the climate1 the soil1 and all the other factors that have so much to do with the growth of the grape assist us no longer4 ,from the moment that the grapes are gathered till the wine is ready for bottling is a most eventful period2 for1 during this important time1 under proper treatment1 wine may be made to reach perfection4 ,indeed1 it is only by paying the most minute attention to all the details connected with the making of wine that ,australian vignerons will succeed in placing our wines before all others2 because it is very important to remember that the must produced in ,australia is equal1 if not superior1 to any in the world4 ,now1 all that follows this portion relates to wine-making alone2 and it should for that very reason1 therefore1 possess a special interest for us4 ,moreover1 it will be a good thing for the wine industry1 for ,australia1 and for her people1 when such an interest becomes part of our daily life4 ,naturally the first thing to suggest itself1 therefore1 in the making of the wine1 is the place in which it is made4 ,there is no doubt that in ,australia the importance of a proper cellar has never been sufficiently appreciated4 ,but the ,french have a proverb1 the cellar makes the wine1 showing that it plays no inconsiderable part in the production of good wine4 ,as ,mr4 ,walter ,w4 ,pownall1 the representative of the ,australian ,wine ,company1 explained before the ,vegetable ,products ,commission in ,victoria1 a knowledge of cellar routine and cellar work would aroid the spoiling of much good wine4 ,a man thinks when he has grown the wine that is all that is necessary4 ,but the fact is1 a wine-grower has never done with his wine till it has passed out of his hands4 ,there was a valuable pamphlet on ,australian wines written by the late ,doctor ,bleasdale1 of ,melbourne1 in #ahgf4 ,it is now out of print1 and regrettedly so1 for the worthy ,doctor was one of the best connoisseurs of wine ,australia ever had4 ,mr4 ,l4 ,bruck1 the well-known medical publisher of ,sydney1 however1 has placed me under considerable obligation by giving me his own copy1 and in the preface therein ,i note that the author1 in speaking of this very question1 remarks3--,i would here reiterate what ,i have often stated1 namely1 that if the cellar management in the three colonies were equal to the magnificent produce of the vines1 no country on the earth could surpass1 in quality and variety of kinds1 ,victoria1 ,south ,australia1 and ,new ,south ,wales4 ,then again1 ,mr4 ,james ,smith1 of ,melbourne1 in the course of his admirable prize essay on ,australian wine1 which appeared in ,,greville',s ,,year ,,book ,,of ,,australia for #ahhf1 has these observations on this subject3--,it is1 however1 in the management of the cellar that one must look for the most efficient means of securing that uniformity of quality which ,i regard as such an important desideratum4 ,if it be not a science1 it is certainly an art requiring special knowledge1 training1 and experience1 combined1 perhaps1 with natural aptitude4 ,and it is precisely in this respect1 ,i fear1 that our deficiency in ,australia is greatest4 ,in the wine-making countries of ,europe the cellarmaster is an expert who inherits the skill1 traditions1 methods1 and usages of many generations of men who have adopted and followed the same calling4 ,his organs of smell and taste have been educated to practise the nicest discrimination of flavour and odour1 and if the vintage of a particular year differs in quality from that of its predecessor1 he knows how1 by a judicious blending of the old with the new1 of the highly-coloured with the pallid1 to arrive at that uniformity which is so indispensable4 ,the cellar must neither be too damp nor too dry4 ,any excess of dampness would rot the casks and give a musty taste to the wine2 while1 on the contrary1 in too dry a cellar the staves of the casks would shrink and cause leakage4 ,the cellar is usually kept somewhat dark4 ,the openings for the admission of air and light should be provided with shutters1 so that the atmosphere and temperature may be under control4 ,the floor of the cellar should be paved or cemented1 be well levelled1 and cleanliness throughout should be strictly and strenuously maintained4 ,but the following remarks of ,signor ,bragato as to what a cellar ought not to be will perhaps be more instructive1 and besides they contain a vast amount of information on the subject4 ,in referring to some of the cellars he came across during his tour of inspection through one of the ,victorian districts1 he writes3-- ,the majority of the buildings used as cellars are nothing less than wooden sheds1 with galvanized iron roofs4 ,here the air has a free circulation day and night1 and the cellerman is thus rendered powerless to control the temperature1 which very often1 from #ajj degrees in day time1 goes down to #ed degrees or less during the night4 ,the appliances required for winemaking are all round badly preserved1 and are covered with mouldiness and dust4 ,the floor of the buildings is not paved or cemented1 and it consists of earth1 so that it has the power of absorbing the wine that gets spilt and becomes the source of pernicious germs1 which will spread all over the cellar and in the air1 to be finally deposited in the must and in the wine1 causing irreparable loss in the quality of the wine4 ,there are a few good cellars1 but these1 also1 are badly kept and badly used4 ,the casks are neglected1 and the coat of tartar is scrupulously left in the cask1 with the erroneous idea that it tends to preserve the wine4 ,all the empty casks ,i have smelt in the cellars inspected are impregnated with bad odours1 which are not detected by the majority of the owners1 in consequence of having accustomed their olfactory organs to the predominant odour of mouldiness in their cellars1 and so they are unable to detect if the odour of their casks is healthy or not4 ,with the bad cellars which the vignerons have at their disposal1 combined with the neglect of the casks and other appliances1 and the little care in the preservation of the wine1 it is only natural that a large quantity of the wine produced is spoiled1 and condemned to the still to be converted into inferior brandy of bad taste and colour1 which is often used to fortify the wines1 with the result of rendering them unfit for consumption4 ,amongst the wines ,i have tested1 ,i found some really very good ones1 presenting all the characteristics required in a fine wine4 ,but if there are good wines1 there are also very bad ones1 and these1 ,i am sorry to say1 represent the bulk in every cellar ,i visited4 ,some of the wines are cloudy1 sweetish1 with a good deal of asperity4 ,others present tartaric1 lactic1 and acetic fermentations4 ,after some further comments on various other matters1 the same gentleman concludes his report with the following3-- ,finally1 ,i may say that by what ,i have seen ,i cannot help expressing the opinion that ,australia is capable of producing really fine wines1 to be highly appreciated in the world's markets4 ,but to produce an appreciable wine1 it is necessary that the vignerons should improve in their system of wine-making1 and substitute for their sheds cellars constructed on a rational principle2 and by devoting more attention to the cleanliness of the casks and other cellar appliances4 ,a modification in the system of cultivation and pruning of the vines will also be factors in improving the quality of the wine4 ,there is in this country good soil1 and a climate which cannot be equalled for the successful cultivation of the vine4 ,capital is plentiful1 and the people very enterprising2 so there remains only the want of ,technical ,instruction1 by the institution of practical schools of ,viticulture1 without which it is doubtful if ever its vignerons will succeed in making wines likely to be appreciated in the foreign markets4 ,in the same way ,mr4 ,j4,a4 ,despeissis1 of the ,new ,south ,wales ,department of ,agriculture1 also insists upon cellar cleanliness4 ,and it would seem1 indeed1 that there is ample justification for his deprecatory remarks4 ,it appears that on several occasions he has noticed fowls and pigeons roosting in the wine cellars4 ,now1 as he pungently observes1 the wine cellar was never intended for this sort of thing4 ,another way of putting the matter would be to point out what a mad thing it would be to use a fowl house as a cellar4 ,moreover1 he gives minute directions for disinfecting the cellar1 in order to destroy any germs or minute organisms which may be lurking in crevices or in odd corners4 ,this is best accomplished by burning some sulphur in earthenware pots1 distributed over various parts of the cellar2 previously seeing that all the windows and gaps are rendered air-tight by means of bagging4 ,the fumes should be left in the cellar--for a day or two1 after which the doors are opened1 and a free current of air allowed to sweeten the whole place4 ,moreover1 a model cellar is necessarily a very elaborate affair1 considering it is the laboratory1 so to speak1 in which the wine is created4 ,a model cellar would consist of the following six compartments3-- 99 #a4 ,the section for the first treatment of the grape4 99 99 #b4 ,the fermentation department4 99 99 #c4 ,the section for the preparation and storing1 of the new wine4 99 99 #d4 ,the underground cellar for the storage of the matured wine4 99 99 #e4 ,the bottle department4 99 99 #f4 ,the distillation department and for the utilization of the refuse of wine4 99 ,the cellar of ,mr4 ,henley1 near the ,ovens ,river1 in ,victoria1 is very complete4 ,it is provided with a steam lift1 a steam crushing machine1 and a steam pump1 while there is perfect ventilation and a uniform temperature4 ,his cellar is divided into three compartments3 the fermenting house in the middle1 the cellar for the new wine1 and the cellar for the old wine4 ,the building is #hc feet by #hj feet1 built of brick1 with double walls #i inches thick outside and #d inches inside1 and between the walls there is #d #a_/b inches of space4 ,the temperature on the hottest days in the summer never surpasses #hj degrees ,fahrenheit2 and1 lastly1 the floors1 both of the cellars and the fermenting house1 are cemented for the purpose of absolute cleanliness4 ,,the ,,making ,,of ,,the ,,wine--,,the ,,gathering ,,of ,,the ,,grape4 ,at the very beginning one of the chief matters to be looked to is the selection of the time at which the grapes should be picked4 ,the proper period is that when the interior of the grape contains its principal components1 the sugar and the acids1 in the right proportions4 ,in the warmer districts the grapes are sometimes allowed to become too ripe4 ,in such a case there would be an excess of sugar and a deficiency of acid1 and a regular fermentation would be impossible4 ,on the other hand1 it will be remembered in the course of the remarks upon pruning that ,i quoted ,mr4 ,francois de ,castella to show what a mistaken idea it is to pick the grapes before they are thoroughly ripe in order to produce1 as it is erroneously supposed1 a lighter wine4 ,it is of the greatest consequence1 therefore1 to choose that particular time for gathering the grapes when they contain the respective elements in their strictly proper proportions4 ,on the eventful day for the picking of the grapes the weather should be fine and bright1 and in the warm districts they should be picked early in the morning and late in the afternoon1 so that they are not too warm4 ,the grapes should never be taken to the fermenting house when too heated2 indeed1 it would be better not to crush the grapes at all than to have them in such a state4 ,as ,signor ,bragato observes1 if they are too warm the fermentation will start with too high a temperature in the must1 and very likely the result will be the formation of lactic and acetic germs4 ,in ,algiers and other warm regions the grapes picked in the day are left outside during the night2 by this means the temperature of the must is lowered4 ,in the picking of the grapes the greatest care should be taken to discard the mouldy1 dry1 and dirty grapes1 and leaf insect worms should likewise be got rid of4 ,once the gathering of the grapes is commenced it should be concluded as quickly as possible1 and therefore a sufficient number of hands must be engaged for the purpose4 ,for instance1 with the ,riesling1 if the grapes are left on the vines on a hot day twenty-four hours after they arrive at perfection1 the wine will not be nearly so good4 ,,the ,,making ,,of ,,the ,,wine--,,varying ,,additions ,,to ,,the ,,must4 ,on the arrival of the grapes at the press-house1 the first thing to be determined upon is whether the stalks are to be used or not4 ,in the case of white wines it is not customary to separate them from the grapes4 ,a good deal1 however1 will depend upon different circumstances4 ,thus1 when grapes are grown in flat1 damp places1 or during wet seasons1 it is often advantageous to ferment the berries with part of their stems2 but1 on the contrary1 those grapes which contain a sufficiency of tannin will not require the latter4 ,for example1 in the production of white wines at ,mr4 ,hans ,irvine's 7,great ,western7 vineyard in ,victoria1 the grapes are first crushed with the mill1 the mill consisting of two grooved wooden rollers working against each other4 ,after this the skins1 together with the stalks1 are placed in the wine-press4 ,in the case of red wine1 however1 the grapes are separated from the stalks by means of an iron griddle1 so that only the skins are employed in the formation of the wine4 ,the methods pursued with regard to the elimination or retention of the grape stalks vary in different parts of the ,continent4 ,the most careful vignerons remove the stalks in the case of the finest growths of ,burgundy2 but in the making of champagne1 and also in the ,rheingau1 from which part come the famous ,hock wines1 the stalks are allowed to remain4 ,in the ,medoc districts1 which produce the finest clarets1 the stalks are likewise put into the fermentation vat2 but this is considered to be a great mistake1 since a long time elapses before the astringent taste of the wine subsides4 ,with the far-famed ,red ,hermitage wine of ,france1 too1 the stalks are permitted to pass into the vat1 and in the case of sherry and port1 as well1 the stalks all take part in the fermentation1 though it is believed that better results would be obtained by their removal4 ,but in all these old wine-producing countries of ,europe the same customs have been followed from time immemorial1 and they are not likely to be altered at present4 ,,the ,,making ,,of ,,the ,,wine--,,the ,,must ,,itself4 ,the must--that is1 the juice expressed from the grape1 but in which 7juice7 fermentation has not yet taken place--is a fluid of very complex composition4 ,it is made up of a variety of ingredients1 with which it is necessary to become familiar in order to follow1 during the process of fermentation1 its change into wine4 ,we find1 therefore1 that a large part of the must consists of water2 this serves to dissolve the other constituents1 and to dilute them to the required extent4 ,for instance1 the sugar in the must needs to be considerably diluted for the purposes of fermentation4 ,in too concentrated a form it actually prevents it1 as we see when fruits are preserved in syrup4 ,next to water1 sugar is the material which exists in the largest proportions in the must2 it is1 however1 that peculiar kind of sugar termed glucose1 which may be described as uncrystallisable sugar1 and as consisting of half grape sugar and half fruit sugar4 ,it possesses the property of being able to ferment1 which cane or crystallisable sugar cannot do1 unless1 indeed1 it first be changed into glucose4 ,now1 it is a curious fact that although cane sugar can be transformed into glucose1 yet the latter form of sugar has never1 so far1 been changed into cane or crystallisable sugar4 ,as ,mr4 ,j4,a4 ,despeissis points out1 the invention of a process that would achieve this would be worth more than all the mines of ,new ,south ,wales put together4 ,in the process of fermentation the glucose is broken up into a number of substances1 which differ entirely from it2 and as these different bodies are very important they deserve much attention4 ,under the influence of fermentation glucose undergoes a great change1 of which the principal products are alcohol and carbonic acid gas4 ,the alcohol is1 of course1 the one predominant feature in wine2 and according to the amount of alcohol which wine contains1 so it varies in strength4 ,in addition to these two main products of glucose by fermentation1 namely1 alcohol and carbonic acid gas1 there are glycerine and succinic acid1 as well as a lesser proportion of other derivatives1 very much akin to alcohol4 ,of all these glycerine is by no means unimportant1 as it confers a blandness or mellowness upon the wine4 ,the succinic acid1 also1 is distinctive for this reason1 that it is the source of that characteristic flavour in wine known as vinosity4 ,besides the water and the glucose1 the must likewise contains quite an appreciable amount of those important bodies1 the various acids4 ,these consist of tartaric acid1 so frequently met with all through the vegetable world2 of malic acid1 which is the acid almost distinctive of apples2 of tannic acid or tannin1 and of other acids4 ,these different acids play an important part in the production of wine2 without them1 in truth1 it would be a mere admixture of spirits and water--a colourless1 flavourless1 and insipid product4 ,by their assistance1 however1 wine is endowed with the brilliancy it possesses4 ,and more than this1 the action of the alcohol on these acids develops those exquisitely delicate ethers--the oenanthic and other ethers--which constitute1 in fact1 the bouquet of the wine4 ,at the same time1 it has also to be remembered that while these many acids constitute the life and soul1 so to speak1 of the wine1 their very presence is absolutely necessary for the process of vinous fermentation4 ,that is to say1 the active agents of vinous fermentation are only enabled to work perfectly in a liquid which is somewhat acid4 ,there is an astringent principle1 named tannin1 which calls for attention in any reference to wine-making4 ,it is almost the same body-- not quite--as the tannin obtained from galls1 and so largely employed in tanning4 ,this vine-tannin1 if it may be so termed1 does not exist in the juice of the grape1 but in the stalk and the skin4 ,the white wines1 in which the juice is almost always freed from the skins and stalks1 contain but little tannin2 while1 on the contrary1 most red wines1 in which juice1 skins1 and stalks are all included together in the fermenting-vat1 contain a good deal4 ,some white wines derive their tannin from the oaken casks which hold the wine2 and their colour1 in consequence1 subsequently deepens4 ,other red wines1 strange to say1 gradually lose their dark colour from a certain action of the tannin4 ,so that tannin is the cause of some white wines deepening in colour1 while it renders other red wines of a lighter colour4 ,now1 tannin has the effect of preserving albuminous substances1 and in this way it may be beneficial in rendering red wines more durable4 ,but although this may be advisable in wines which are liable to turn1 it is certain that excess of tannin is most undesirable4 ,in fact1 the practice of placing the stalks in the fermenting-vat is in many cases1 as ,i have previously stated1 an unnecessary proceeding4 ,the mineral kingdom is not unrepresented in must1 and certain saline substances are found in it4 ,of these1 the salts of potash are uniformly present1 and the most important is1 without doubt1 the acid tartrate of potash4 ,this is the salt so well known in commerce under the name of cream of tartar4 ,the lees of wine contain it in considerable quantity1 and it is also found as a crystalline deposit in the inside of the casks4 ,as the alcohol begins to develop in the must this salt is precipitated1 and the more so the lower the temperature4 ,thus it is that a light wine of low alcoholic strength1 if it be markedly acid1 will lose the acidity in a cool1 underground cellar4 ,and1 as a matter of fact1 the proper maturation of a wine is impossible without a due amount of tartar2 besides this1 it develops in the wine a well-defined vigour and tonicity1 which improves its taste1 while it also increases its alimentary qualities4 ,there are a few other ingredients in must1 namely1 the colouring matters and essential oils1 and the albuminoids1 or nitrogenous substances4 ,the colouring matters and oils appear to be contained in the cells of the inner side of the skin4 ,of these1 the purpose of the colouring matter is obvious2 while the essential oils are believed to contribute to the aroma of the wine4 ,the albuminoids or nitrogenous substances are of the nature of white of egg2 and1 when in small proportion1 are necessary for the due performance of the fermentative process4 ,but1 in excess1 they are a source of considerable anxiety to the vigneron1 in that they are the cause of much of the wine going wrong4 ,,the ,,making ,,of ,,wine--,,fermentation4 ,the must1 as we have already seen1 is the juice of the grape1 which has been squeezed out by the grape-mill or from the wine-press4 ,the murk1 or pomace as it is called in ,america1 on the contrary1 is the mass of grape skins1 stalks1 c41 left behind in the press4 ,a clear apprehension of these two terms is required in order that no confusion may arise4 ,the fermenting-vat is the cask in which what is called the strong1 stormy1 or tumultuous fermentation takes place4 ,the cuvage is the length of time the contents are left in the fermenting-vat4 ,the whole phenomena of fermentation are too complicated and profoundly scientific to be dealt with here4 ,i shall do no more1 therefore1 than briefly refer to the behaviour of the must in the fermenting-vat4 ,fermentation sets in soon after the must is placed within the latter4 ,the germs of vinous fermentation are contained in abundance in the air of the wine cellar1 as well as being on the grapes themselves4 ,m4 ,pasteur1 who has contributed so much to a proper understanding of fermentation1 has proved that the yeast fungi come from the external surface of the grapes1 and are not derived from the interior4 ,hence it follows that the skins are to be well crushed before fermentation begins1 to ensure proper action in the must4 ,the temperature of the must soon begins to rise1 and the fermentative agencies break up its glucose into alcohol and carbonic acid gas4 ,there is a bubbling and seething in the liquid during this action1 which gradually subsides4 ,the increase of temperature in the fermented fluid begins to abate2 the skins and husks subside to the bottom of the vat2 the liquid itself becomes slightly less turbid--and the first stage of wine-making is at an end4 ,a clearer insight into this important part of the process will perhaps be gained by noting some of the practices followed on the ,continent1 as regards the duration of the vattage4 ,the length of time the various contents--whether they be the grape juice alone1 or the grape juice together with the skins and stalks--remain within the fermenting-vat1 varies greatly in different parts4 ,in the ,champagne country1 the must is allowed to stand for twelve or eighteen hours1 during which time a froth arises to the top and a sediment descends to the bottom4 ,without disturbing either of these1 the precious liquid is carefully withdrawn into small barrels1 and the fermentation is then allowed to proceed4 ,this purification is one of the most important matters connected with the making of champagne4 ,the ,medoc districts1 in the ,bordeaux territory1 produce the finest of the clarets4 ,the grapes are detached from the stalks1 and subjected to pressure4 ,the must is put into the fermenting-vat1 to which is added the murk resulting from the pressing1 and the stalks which were previously separated from the berries4 ,the time necessary for vinification varies2 in good years it is no longer than four or five days1 and the future wine will then be at its best with regard to taste1 delicacy1 and softness4 ,in one case1 that of the ,red ,hermitage wine of ,france1 the grapes are unstalked and crushed before being placed in the vat4 ,the contents of the latter are then stirred twice a day1 and ultimately once a day4 ,this is continued for about a month1 and in one of the best vineyards for forty days4 ,this long cuvage appears necessary from the fact that the large amount of sugar in the must is but slowly transformed into alcohol4 ,there is a curious incident which occurs in connection with the world-renowned wines of ,burgundy1 which is worth recording4 ,as the fermentation proceeds1 the murk1 as in all similar fermentations1 rises to the surface of the vat1 and forms what is called the hat1 or ,,chapeau4 ,the fermentation proceeds till all is ready for the wine to be drawn4 ,at this time the hat is so dense that it will bear the weight of two or three men4 ,each of them now begins working with one foot till he gets it through the crust1 and the whole ,,chapeau is eventually broken up and mixed with the wine4 ,but to return to our subject4 ,as soon as the stormy or seething fermentation is over1 the young wine is drawn off from the fermenting-vat into the maturing-cask1 at which time it may be quite warm and turbid4 ,in a cool cellar and with perfect quiet it gradually becomes clearer2 it deposits on the bottom of the cask many of the substances it contains1 and the fermentation becomes no longer visible4 ,the time which this slow fermentation takes to occur will vary with the type of wine1 with the nature of the must1 and with the influence of the season4 ,speaking generally1 it may be said to be from two to eight weeks after its entrance into the maturing-cask4 ,the wine is considered to be ready for its first racking when it has become clear and transparent1 and when its lees have subsided to the bottom of the cask4 ,in racking there is a withdrawal of the wine from the sediment which it casts down1 and which is known as the lees4 ,it is an important operation because irremediable damage is caused to wine by allowing it to remain in contact with the dregs4 ,a knowledge of their composition is of great value1 since it serves to explain their injurious influence4 ,the lees deposited from vinous fermentation consist of mineral salts1 tartaric acid1 and organic matters4 ,of these the 'organic substances are the most to be dreaded1 and for this reason1 that they are very prone to rapid decomposition4 ,they consist of yeast-cells1 cells of other micro-organisms1 of ,,debris and minute particles of grape stalks and skins1 and of other bodies1 all readily liable to decompose4 ,all these various materials1 therefore1 are continually a source of peril1 for the slightest thing may start action in them1 which spreads throughout the wine and simply ruins it4 ,by removing it from such undesirable company all these risks are avoided1 and the best possible qualities of the wine are afforded the opportunity to develop4 ,in the performance of racking definite changes take place in the vine1 which are assuredly important4 ,for it must be remembered that the nearly fermented young wines contain an excess of carbonic acid gas2 and this is rightly regarded as possessing great preservative properties1 in that it prevents the dangerously spreading growth of the little micro-organisms and germs present in all new wine4 ,in the course of racking1 however1 a certain amount of the carbonic acid gas must be lost1 and fresh oxygen is absorbed from the atmosphere4 ,the oxygen is invaluable from the fact that it exerts a powerful chemical influence upon the wine2 as a consequence fermentation is slightly renewed if there be any grape sugar remaining4 ,at the same time the colour of the wine is also modified1 and any rawness or harshness in its taste quality is enormously increased by the development of those delicate and subtle ethers which have so much to do with the flavour and bouquet of all wines4 ,the operation of racking1 consequently1 is one of great importance1 as it requires to be repeated from time to time4 ,a copious deposit of lees generally takes place after the first racking1 and a second one should speedily follow4 ,during the first year young wines are often racked off as many as three times1 but with the older wines once a year1 at the beginning of spring1 may be sufficient4 ,but it is precisely in matters of this kind that judgment and experience are so much needed4 ,now1 it has been pointed out over and over again that it is solely by a correct treatment of ,australian wines in the cellar that we can hope to attain to excellence2 in fact1 the whole secret lies in this direction4 ,and it is very much to be regretted1 therefore1 that cellar management and wine treatment have not yet been conceded their proper position1 that of being the principal factors in the success of ,australian wine4 ,amongst others1 this very truth was pointed out by ,mr4 ,pownall1 to whom ,i have previously referred4 ,in giving evidence before the ,vegetable ,products ,commission of ,victoria in ,august #ahhi1 he observed3--,in some of the cellars ,i have been horrified with the amount of wine which ,i should describe as 'perished' and as 'perishing4' ,it is astounding1 ,i can hardly express the quantity4 ,and very often the vine-grower is so ignorant of his business that he shows one wine which is 'tart' and 'sour1' and even praises it4 ,i find those wines are generally exceeding three years old1 and ,i attribute it to the lack of cellar knowledge and treatment1 because in the same cellar where ,i find large quantities of bad wine ,i find this year's and last year's wine good1 and promising well2 but if longer kept1 and so treated1 after a few years it will be utterly useless4 ,it will only be by paying attention to all the details connected with the cellarage of ,australian wines that the victory will be ours4 ,i have said so before1 and now say it again1 that our ,australian must is quite equal to1 if not superior to1 any in the world4 ,but it is from that very time that the critical stage in the making of our wines begins4 ,it behoves our vignerons1 therefore1 to concentrate their energies mainly upon that vastly important period which follows onwards from the very beginning of vinification4 ,,the ,,tasting ,,and ,,judging ,,of ,,wines4 ,of the five senses1 namely1 seeing1 hearing1 feeling1 smelling1 and tasting1 the last is by no means the least important4 ,it is a wise provision1 this sense of taste1 in that it enables us to relish our food1 and also to select that which is suitable at the same time4 ,if we took no pleasure in eating we should probably cease to eat at all1 and die of starvation4 ,and if we had no taste we might eat that which was unsuitable4 ,in illness1 almost the first things that the sufferer will complain about are that he has lost all desire for his food1 and that everything tastes alike to him4 ,the true taste impressions are limited to the following1 namely1 bitter1 sweet1 sour1 and salt4 ,the best substances to mark these four varieties of taste are quinine for the bitter1 honey for the sweet1 vinegar for the sour1 and table salt for the last4 ,the sense of taste is closely associated with that of smell2 indeed1 the sense of smell has nearly all to do with the perception of flavour4 ,there is an inseparable connection between the two senses of smell and taste1 for when anosmia or loss of the sense of smell occurs1 all taste1 except for bitterness1 sweetness1 sourness1 and saltness1 is completely lost1 so far as ideas of flavour1 c41 are concerned4 ,brillat-,savarin1 the high-priest of gastronomy1 quaintly puts it that smell and taste form only one sense1 having the mouth as laboratory1 with the nose for the fire-place or chimney2 the one serving to taste solids1 the other gases4 ,george ,dallas1 too1 the gifted author of ,,the ,,book ,,of ,,the ,,table1 also expresses the association of taste and smell in an apt way4 ,he makes reference to the fact that the other senses are not dependent on each other1 but that the hearing becomes more acute in a blind man4 ,on the contrary1 taste is made for marriage1 and smell is its better half4 ,taste loses1 as he says1 all its delicacy when it cannot mate with a fine olfactory nerve4 ,the late ,dr4 ,druitt has likewise noted that the union of smell with taste is essential for the enjoyment of wine4 ,from the foregoing it will be seen that when we speak of taste we refer to a complicated and extremely delicate process4 ,there is this also to be remembered1 that it is a sense which can be cultivated to a high degree2 and in the wine-taster it is brought to the very pitch of excellence4 ,yet1 notwithstanding all this1 it must be a matter of every-day experience1 that people will profess to an ability to judge wine when they know absolutely nothing of the various points1 so to speak1 to be looked for4 ,what ,i mean is this1 that there are many different things to be observed when a wine is tasted1 and that each one requires to have proper judgment bestowed upon it4 ,what these are ,i shall endeavour to speak of in due course4 ,wine tasting is a fine art as seen with the ,,courtiers or experts who are employed by the large houses in ,bordeaux4 ,there are exceptional qualifications required for this office1 for its holders must possess a delicate and highly trained palate1 and an exquisite and perfect sense of smell1 while at the same time a lengthened experience and unerring discrimination in the value of the wine submitted to them are also called for4 ,mr4 ,james ,smith1 in his prize essay1 already referred to1 quotes with approval the following passage from a ,french authority3-,the ,,courtage of wines is1 then1 a true science1 which is acquired by long observations1 by numerous tastings1 extensive practice1 and a correct judgment2 a science which has rendered1 and is daily rendering1 true and important services to our vinicole department 7that of the ,gironde72 for1 by this means1 intelligent classifications have given to our ,,grands ,,crus a universal reputation1 and have made our best wines known and appreciated throughout the civilised world4 ,in the judging of wines1 therefore1 at least four essentials are necessary3 two of the senses--the taste and the smell must be perfect--while great experience and special knowledge must be equally present4 ,now1 there is an old saying1 ,,de ,,gustibus ,,non ,,est ,,disputandum1 and consequently every person has a perfect right to like what pleases him2 so that in this way anyone may prefer to drink whisky1 or any other form of spirits1 and he is quite entitled to believe there is nothing so good for him2 but1 on the other hand1 an habitual spirit-drinker must not claim to possess a correct judgment in estimating the qualities of a good wine2 for1 as a matter of fact1 the daily influence of whisky on the palate is absolutely fatal to its delicacy of perception4 ,there are none of the graceful flavours1 none of the delicate ethers1 none of the perfumed bouquets in whisky that belong to a wholesome wine4 ,no1 there is only the coarse spirit which benumbs the palatal nerves1 and renders them incapable of picking out these vinous attributes4 ,moreover1 it would almost seem that a person's very thoughts are controlled by his customary beverage4 ,it is evident1 indeed1 that ,richard ,bentley1 one of the greatest scholars of modern times1 believed in this doctrine2 for did he not make this memorable remark to one of his pupils3 ,sir1 if you drink ale1 you will think ale8 ,is it not true1 also1 that with many people champagne is regarded as the highest type of wine8 ,this is more likely to be the case with those who are beginning to realize the pleasures of life4 ,indeed1 as it has been acutely remarked1 a youngster from college1 when invited to dinner1 thinks himself badly treated if he does not get it4 ,now1 it is not to be denied that champagne is1 in its way1 an imperial drink1 and that it has a specially exhilarating effect4 ,but1 at the same time1 it must be remembered that it is on the other side of the champagne stage of life that the appreciation of really great wines begins4 ,take1 for instance1 a comparison of the wines of ,bordeaux and of ,burgundy4 ,these are two distinct classes of wine1 and1 according to ,mr4 ,sept4 ,berdmore1 should be imbibed different days4 ,that they are entirely distinct wines might only be expected1 seeing that the geographical positions of the two districts are so far apart4 ,the ,bordeaux wines come from the south-western or ,bay of ,biscay side of ,france1 while those of ,burgundy belong to her eastern portion4 ,it is almost universally a matter of belief that the red wines of ,bordeaux should be warmed gradually--taking some hours--before they are drunk4 ,the temperature of these wines should be as nearly as possible the temperature of the dining-room itself4 ,the finest clarets are often utterly spoiled from the fact that this has been disregarded1 and they have been brought to table without ally preparation4 ,in the case of ,burgundy1 however1 an opposite treatment is required1 and by many connoisseurs it is considered to be best when brought up from a cool cellar shortly before use4 ,all these are matters of considerable importance1 and show that the judging of wines requires something more than a mere off-hand opinion4 ,there are certain descriptions of the different varieties of wines1 given by ,thudicum and ,dupre1 ,vizetelly and others1 which are of great assistance in helping to a knowledge of the various desiderata to be looked for4 ,moreover1 much will be gained by collecting them together1 as their principal characteristics will be better remembered when they are thus contrasted with each other4 ,it is not my wish to laud the wines of other countries to the disparagement of ,australian growths1 but it is my object to show clearly those desirable properties which all good wines should possess4 ,a knowledge of these lofty standards will do more to better the quality of our ,australian wines than anything ,i know of4 ,the wines of the ,medoc1 that district of the ,gironde which produces the finest clarets1 namely1 ,chateau ,margaux1 ,chateau ,lafitte1 ,chateau ,latour1 c41 possess distinguishing features peculiar to themselves4 ,they have a certain slight distinctive roughness2 are fine1 juicy1 marrowy in the mouth1 and after having been in bottle some years they acquire a very beautiful bouquet4 ,they have1 moreover1 this remarkable hygienic quality1 that they can be drunk in large quantity without1 as the ,french say1 fatiguing either head or stomach4 ,but there is another portion of the ,bordeaux country1 namely the ,,graves1 which produces both red and white wines4 ,the latter include those magnificent ,sauternes1 ,chateau d',yquem and ,la ,tour ,blanche1 which take such high rank2 ,chateau d',yquem1 indeed1 has been likened to liquid gold--liquid gold in a crystal glass--and is one of those most luscious and delicately aromatic of wines1 with an exquisite bouquet and rich1 delicious flavour4 ,as it has already been stated1 ,bordeaux and ,burgundy are entirely different wines1 and this fact must be well remembered4 ,the wines of the latter comprise some of the most famous growths of ,france1 and are distinguished by the suavity of their taste1 their finesse1 and spirituous aroma ,the red wines have a fine colour1 a good deal of bouquet1 and a delicious taste4 ,they give tone to the stomach1 and facilitate digestion4 ,of these red wines of ,burgundy the ,romanee-,conti is among the first growths1 and it is renowned for its fine colour1 its aroma1 its delicacy1 and the superb quality of its delicious taste4 ,clos de ,vougeot is another great growth1 which is slightly more alcoholic than the preceding4 ,chambertin1 also1 possesses a good deal of seve1 delicacy1 perfect taste1 and pleasant bouquet2 moreover1 it has a softness which made it an especial favourite with the great ,napoleon4 ,corton1 likewise1 is of high colour1 corse1 and1 as it gets older1 acquires a great deal of seve and bouquet4 ,the white wines of ,burgundy however1 must not be forgotten1 for amongst them is the renowned ,chablis4 ,this1 with the oysters1 the squeeze of lemon juice1 and the brown bread and butter1 usually heralds in any large dinner4 ,although slightly alcoholic1 it is not heady1 and possesses body1 delicacy1 and an agreeable perfume1 with that distinguishing ,,pierre ,a ,,fusil taste--that flinty flavour--which is its recognised characteristic4 ,leaving the ,bordeaux wines and the wines of ,burgundy1 it is next desirable to speak of one which belongs to the ,south of ,france4 ,it is well known1 at least by name1 to most ,australians1 and any description of its properties1 therefore1 will be the more appreciated4 ,this is the ,muscat of ,rivesaltes1 in the department of the ,oriental ,pyrenees4 ,by some it is esteemed the best liqueur wine in the world4 ,a good sample of it possesses great finesse1 a good deal of vinosity1 and that wonderful muscadine bouquet which gives to it its celebrated characters4 ,there is another wine1 coming from the valley of the ,rhone1 in the south-eastern portion of ,france1 whose name is equally familiar to most ,australians2 this is the ,red ,hermitage1 or1 as it is perhaps more commonly known amongst us1 ,shiraz1 wine4 ,a genuine wine is distinguished by great richness1 a lively purple colour1 and a special bouquet2 and it becomes1 by these united qualities1 the best wine of this region4 ,turning to the ,german wines1 those of the ,rheingau must claim our attention4 ,this district borders on the ,rhine1 and it is said that the river acts as a mirror1 in reflecting the rays of the sun towards the vineyards4 ,the ,rheingau must not be confused with the district of ,hochheim1 which is situated on the ,maine4 ,yet it is curious that the first syllable of the latter district 7,hochheim7 has furnished the monosyllabic ,english word ,hock1 under which are confused ,,all the ,rhine wines4 ,amongst the wines of the ,rheingau may be enumerated ,steinberg1 ,marcobrunner1 and ,johannisberg4 ,with regard to the wines of the ,rheingau1 ,mr4 ,henry ,vizetelly observes3 ,although the flavour and bouquet of the grand wines of the ,rheingau are equally pronounced1 it is exceedingly difficult to characterise them with precision4 ,after gratifying the sense of smell with the fragrant odour which they evolve --and which is no mere evanescent essence vanishing as soon as recognised1 but often a rich odour which almost scents the surrounding atmosphere--you proceed to taste the vine1 and seem to sip the aroma exhaled by it4 ,now and then you are conscious of a refilled pungent flavour1 and at other times of a slight racy sharpness1 while the after-taste generally suggests more of an almond flavour than any other you can call to mind4 ,no wines vary so much in their finer qualities as the grand growths of the ,rheingau4 ,the produce of a particular vineyard1 although from the same species of grape1 cultivated under precisely similar conditions1 will differ materially in flavour and bouquet1 not merely in bad and good years1 but in vintages of equal excellence4 ,moreover1 these wines need the most skilful cellar treatment during the long years they are maturing4 ,all great wines1 it should be remembered1 ripen slowly1 and cannot be 'pasturised' into perfection--that is to say1 cannot be rapidly matured by heating them to a certain temperature1 as ordinary wines may be4 ,the ,hochheim vineyards are situated1 as ,i have previously indicated1 on the banks of the ,maine1 several miles above its confluence with the ,rhine4 ,there is one exceptionally fine ,hochheim growth which comes from the vineyard of the ,dechanei1 or deanery4 ,true ,hochheinner is a remarkably aromatic wine1 and possesses both body and fire4 ,indeed1 it contains as large a percentage of alcohol as the so-called noble ,steinberger--the most spirituous of the ,rhenish growths--with more sweetness4 ,it consequently lacks that subdued acidulous freshness of flavour which is such a marked characteristic of the wines of the ,rheingau4 ,some reference to sherry and port is necessary1 because they are both types of wines that are widely known1 and consequently ally remarks concerning1 them are of value by comparison4 ,it would appear that with most sherry1 and certainly with all port1 there is an addition of alcohol to the wine4 ,even the wines which are sold in ,england under the name of natural sherry contain from #ac4b to #ae4e per cent4 of alcohol4 ,beyond all question1 therefore1 from #a #a_/b to #c #a_/b per cent4 of alcohol must have been added1 for no natural sherry should ever contain more than #ab per cent4 of alcohol4 ,some sherries1 however1 have been introduced with an alcoholicity of from #ab to #ac4f per cent41 with the following1 characters3 ,the taste is freely vinous1 rich1 pure1 mellow1 and quite free from heat or the taste of added spirit4 ,but fashion has much to do with the type of sherry in request2 thus the colour has varied from time to time4 ,in the same way1 too1 a taste for dry sherries arose with the ,manzanilla epoch1 only to be carried to excess4 ,as with all other wines1 a certain age in sherry is desirable2 the ethers become developed during this period1 and impart a rich flavour to it4 ,in the course of time1 however1 sherry falls off so much that it is only fit for giving flavour to young wine4 ,in the matter of port1 also1 it may confidently be asserted that not a single drop is sold that does not contain a certain amount of added brandy4 ,that is to say1 all port wine1 without exception1 is brandied4 ,the effect of the brandy is to keep the wine quiet2 it prevents it from undergoing any fermentation2 and1 what is more1 it keeps it from changing1 no matter whether the climate be hot or cold4 ,messrs4 ,thudicum and ,dupre state that a perfectly natural port has #i per cent4 of alcohol as the lowest1 and #ac4h per cent4 as the highest limit4 ,a sample of ,alto ,douro wine submitted to these gentlemen1 although it was slightly alcoholised1 yet possessed the following desirable qualities3 it was fine1 because it was derived from the finest and ripest ,alto ,douro grapes1 the ,verdeilho and ,bastardo2 it was full1 owing to its great vinosity and high amount of natural alcohol1 yet free from adventitious syrup2 and it was pure1 because free from all those faults which depreciate so many southern wines1 such as the fousel flavour1 or the burning taste of distilled spirit4 ,besides all these great qualities1 it characteristically possessed the very essence of an ideal port wine flavour--without the saccharine and spirituous taste commonly found in port wine--and it had a natural smooth astringency such as pleases the palate and imparts keeping qualities4 ,moreover1 it was very unlike the artificial sweet and burning products commonly called port wine4 ,it was thoroughly fermented1 and contained such a minute quantity of grape sugar that the latter could not be possibly detected by the taste4 ,it was perfectly dry1 and thereby differed entirely from ordinary port wines1 which contain from #b to #f per cent4 of sugar4 ,its alcoholicity was certainly below all the port wines usually sold4 ,with all these desirable qualities1 therefore1 it possessed high dietetic and hygienic virtues1 and refreshed the system like ,burgundy or ,medoc wine4 ,it will be convenient to make reference here to two terms about which there is a great deal of confusion4 ,it is the difference between the aroma and the bouquet of wine4 ,now1 the ,settimana ,vinicola has recently well observed that although these two are usually supposed to be the same1 yet they are entirely different4 ,the aroma of a wine is altogether distinct from those agreeable and delicate odours known by the name of bouquet4 ,for instance1 some ,american grapes have what is called a foxy smell1 and the wine prepared from them has this aroma1 which is perceptibly disagreeable4 ,aroma pre-exists in certain grapes1 and during vinification will pass into the resulting wine4 ,on the other hand1 perfume1 the bouquet of the ,french1 as it has been pointed out by ,professor ,g4 ,grazzi-,soncini1 is the complex sensation produced simultaneously on the palate and nose1 owing to the intimate connection between these two organs1 and which has already been referred to4 ,this bouquet is due to the action of the ethers1 which are formed during the life of the wine4 ,the ,,corriere ,,del ,,villagio remarks1 in addition to the preceding1 that there is a chemical difference between the aroma and the bouquet of wine4 ,the former is produced chiefly by one or more carburets of hydrogen1 and their oxidation derivatives4 ,the bouquet1 however1 results from the admixture of aldehydes with one or more essential oils and various ethers1 produced by combination of fatty and other acids with ethylic and other alcohols1 and from these changes result the different ethers which constitute the bouquet of wine4 ,one of the most valuable books published on vine-growing and wine-making is that by the justly celebrated ,dr4 ,jules ,guyot4 ,the greater part of one particularly important chapter is wholly taken up with the most graphic and lucid description of wine-tasting with which we are acquainted4 ,besides this1 it contains such an amount of information on the subject1 that no remarks in this connection would be complete without reference to it4 ,for the following vivid rendering of a good deal of this very chapter ,i am very much indebted to my friend ,dr4 ,john ,steel1 of ,sydney3-- ,wine put upon its trial is subjected to two jurisdictions2 the one altogether belonging to the senses1 the other wholly physiological4 ,the appreciation of wine by the senses is referred to three of our organs of sense--the eye2 the nasal chambers1 in front and behind2 and the mouth1 equally at its anterior and posterior part4 ,,wine ,,judged ,,by ,,the ,,sight4--,wine pleases the eye by its clearness and colour3 and be it ruby1 rose1 amber1 or white1 it ought always to have perfect clearness and freshness of colour4 ,neither of these latter tones will be out of harmony in a really good wine1 even in extreme old age4 ,if you will not take upon yourself to decide whether a wine is good when it is attractive to the sight1 you can always say that it is not good or at least that it is not in the best condition1 when its transparency and shades of colour are questionable4 ,freshness of colour and clearness are good signs4 ,though they are not to be regarded as qualities1 yet any appearance to the contrary betokens real defects in the wine4 ,,wine ,,judged ,,by ,,the ,,sense ,,of ,,smell2 ,,the ,,two ,,odours ,,of ,,wine4--,wine reveals itself by two sorts of odours 7the aroma and the bouquet7 to the outer organ of smell--that is to say1 when that sense is exercised by inhaling 7or sniffing7 the wine4 ,the first1 or aroma1 is the general and common odour peculiar to most wines4 ,it is always strongest when the wine is newest1 but it always characterises good wine1 however old it may be4 ,this first odour seems to be due to the volatilization of the spirit1 which holds in solution an essential oil1 more or less volatile1 more or less powerful1 and more or less characteristic of each kind of wine4 ,this aroma is a sign of real quality in the wine1 and is generally very strong and very noticeable during the first years2 it becomes concentrated1 refined1 and attenuated as the wine ages4 ,the second kind of odour the bouquet1 on the contrary1 is developed with age1 and would appear to be owing to the reaction of vinous acids on the spirit1 which gives rise to certain ethereal combinations4 ,,wines ,,are ,,not ,,made ,,chiefly ,,to ,,please ,,the ,,senses ,,of ,,sight ,,and ,,smell-- ,aroma1 like colour1 is a favourable or unfavourable sign1 agreeable or disagreeable4 ,yet before everything wine is a nourishing beverage4 ,it is a very good thing that sight and smell should be gratified in this way1 but it would be puerile and ridiculous to exalt beyond measure the importance of these organs of sense2 and to pretend that the superiority of wine rests almost exclusively on the pleasurable impressions which are derived therefrom4 ,i have seen many hosts bother their guests with vexatious insistence to look at1 hold up to the light1 sniff their wine1 even the empty glasses1 almost throughout the whole duration of a banquet--at the risk of making them well nigh die of thirst4 ,the true amateur1 the wine-taster1 knows perfectly well how to look at and how to smell his wine2 but he knows full well also that these two preliminaries ought to be immediately followed by the taking of the fluid into the front part of the mouth4 ,colour and smell are merely two notes introductory to a gastronomic theme2 if they are only by themselves they lose their relative value1 and the theme is not properly understood4 ,,wine ,,judged ,,by ,,taste2 ,,that ,,is1 ,,by ,,the ,,mouth ,,at ,,its ,,anterior ,,and ,,posterior ,,part4--,before speaking of the impression wine gives to the sense of taste1 ,i ought to say that this sense is the only one in the animal organization which possesses a double apparatus for perception-- one at the tip and edges of the tongue1 the other at its root and at the soft palate4 ,the first perceives acid or electro-positive tastes through the two lingual nerves2 the second detects alkaline tastes by the two glosso-pharyngeal nerves4 ,tastes perceived by the front part of the mouth1 in the case of liquids as well as solids1 are not the same as those discriminated by the back part of the mouth4 ,an alkaline salt1 for instance1 gives to the front part an acid1 styptic1 salt1 or sweet taste1 but communicates to the posterior part a basic1 bitter1 or saponaceous taste4 ,,wine-,,tasting ,,properly ,,so ,,called4--,wine taken into the front part of the mouth gives rise to acid1 sweet1 and styptic tastes at the outer edges and tip of the tongue4 ,all shades1 in harmony1 ought to give a pleasing sensation to the organ1 when neither acidity1 sweetness1 nor astringency predominates4 ,next we pass the wine to the posterior part of the mouth1 and delay it there by a kind of gargling4 ,it is now that we get the smack of the soil1 the taste of cask or wood1 the insipidity of salts1 or any bitterness4 ,if the whole effect is pleasing to the back part of the mouth1 with the absence of all disagreeable impressions1 we must1 to put the finishing touch on the wine-tasting1 not spit it out1 but swallow it4 ,as soon as the wine has passed over the root of the tongue and the soft palate and its pillars1 a most pronounced odour ascends from the pharynx into the nasal cavities1 and gives forth newer and more powerful revelations1 ,,as to the qualities or defects of the bouquet of wine1 than can ever be obtained by the outward sense of smell4 ,moreover1 the last contact of wine with the mucous membrane of the pharynx and of the base of the tongue leaves a lasting impression of taste1 and when this sensation is disagreeable it is designated under the collective name of 'after-taste4' ,,good ,,and ,,bad ,,wine ,,judged ,,by ,,the ,,senses4--,if1 then1 a wine possesses perfect clearness and freshness of colour1 if it has an agreeable odour1 if the combined effect of the acid1 sweet1 and astringent tastes is gratifying to the anterior part of the mouth by a fusion1 seeming to form a unique taste like many notes in a complete harmony2 if to this harmonious impression the back part of the mouth adds a feeling of glow and vinous richness1 without alcohol being noticed2 and if1 at last1 the act of swallowing crowns the whole with a natural bouquet1 not followed by any 'after-taste1' we may pronounce the wine to be good as judged by the senses4 ,but1 on the other hand1 the wine is unsatisfactory if it fail in any of these points4 ,it will be inferior in proportion as the acids1 sugar1 and the salts become individually perceived by the tip of the tongue4 ,again1 it is imperfect when the chilliness1 flatness1 the essential oils1 the taste of earth and of cask1 and above all1 an excess of froe spirit1 are manifestly noticed at the base of that organ4 ,and lastly1 it is defective just as the ',,arriere ,,bouquet' is less pleasant1 and the 'after-taste' more disagreeably prolonged4 ,,the ,,difficulty ,,of ,,judging ,,by ,,tastes4--,in this unfolding of the process of wine-tasting ,i have endeavoured to be clear1 and yet ,i feel ,i have not been sufficiently so4 ,it will be impossible to judge by tastes until science has laid down signs or words representative of their quality1 of their stamp1 or of their harmonious relations4 ,the science of tastes has yet to be founded4 ,till then1 chefs de cuisine and the clever caterers for banquets will remain isolated geniuses or empirics2 while1 as regards wine-tasters and gastronomists1 they approve or they criticise1 but they do not establish any rules4 ,it would be a curious collection that would comprise all the expressions used by wine-tasters1 wine-merchants1 commercial travellers1 amateurs 7by far1 indeed1 the most numerous class71 to express the feelings they experience in tasting wines4 ,i know an ,english traveller who only liked a wine when it caused a 'peacock's tail in the mouth'2 and everybody knows the expression of the ,auvergnian drinking a glass of generous old wine--',it's a yard of velvet going down the throat4' ,,the ,,physiological ,,effect ,,of ,,wines4--,the inhabitants of a beer-drinking or spirit-drinking country will never possess the vivacity of wit and the light-heartedness of those who live in a wine-producing land4 ,it is not by any means the alcohol in itself which constitutes the worth and goodness of wine1 for beer may contain as much1 and spirits certainly contain more4 ,to be more or less spirituous does not constitute good wine4 ,all natural wine is good1 whether it be strong or weak in spirit1 if it keeps its organic life4 ,it is good1 too1 if it reveals itself by a fresh odour1 by a union of all its elements in a taste harmonious to the palate1 by being easily digested1 and by causing greater activity of body and mind1 and a sensible augmentation of muscular force4 ,be the taste of the wine fresh1 sharp1 or delicate2 be it soft1 unctuous1 or rich2 be it acid or strong1 the wine is good if it supports and increases the forces of body and mind1 without wearing out the digestive ,organs4 ,,wine ,,is ,,good ,,relatively ,,and ,,not ,,absolutely4 ,,we ,,ought ,,to ,,have ,,before ,,everything ,,good ,,common ,,wines4--,a wine is good according to the use to which we put it4 ,even an excellent liqueur or dessert vine is undesirable and out of place for ordinary drinking purposes or for nourishment4 ,we must distinguish between wines for ordinary use1 those for side dishes 7,,entremets71 and those for dessert4 ,and these again should be differentiated into wines for small1 medium1 or large glasses1 relatively1 proportional to the quantity which we can or ought to drink4 ,a good cake is always good if we only eat a little at a time1 and seldom take it2 but bread is infinitely better and preferred by everybody to eating cake always4 ,it is vastly more important to have good ordinary wines than to have good ,,vins ,d',,entremets or good liqueur wines4 ,and1 indeed1 this very matter affects the total consumption within and out of ,france1 and the interests of producer and consumer1 as well as the interests of public hygiene4 ,good ordinary wine1 alimentary wine--for wine is a real and excellent food--by no means a wine strong in spirit1 nor is it a wine of great age2 but it is a wine of fine ,,cepage1 not going beyond #aj per cent4 of spirit1 or even #f per cent4 ,,uniformity ,,in ,,australian ,,wines4 ,this is a subject the importance of which cannot be over estimated4 ,and it is one markedly calling for consideration1 as there have been1 and still are1 grounds for complaint in this direction4 ,it will be advisable1 therefore1 to look well into the question1 because it will amply repay the trouble bestowed upon it4 ,first of all1 then1 let us refer to the remarks of ,mr4 ,francois de ,castella1 the author of the ,handbook on ,viticulture for ,victoria4 ,he points out that in each district there will be one class of wine which will surpass all others in excellence1 and that this is the type which the grower should produce4 ,all the vine-growers in any one district should endeavour to make their wines of the type specially adapted for that particular district2 and of course the type will vary in different districts4 ,in this way1 and only in this way1 will it be possible for the public to obtain an unvarying article4 ,at the present time there are in each district a number of wines possessing various names1 such as ,hermitage1 ,shiraz1 ,carbenet1 ,burgundy1 ,chasselas1 ,riesling1 ,tokay1 c41 but these names actually mean nothing4 ,each district should produce a different type of wine4 ,a ,riesling from the ,yarra and a ,riesling from the ,murray are as distinct as ,hock and ,sherry4 ,mr4 de ,castella further advises that each vine-grower should join the ,vine-,growers' ,association in his locality4 ,in this way the members of each district can agree amongst themselves to produce one class of wine1 or at most two--say one white and one red4 ,instead of the same names being applied to entirely different wines1 the nine will come to be known by the name of the district in which it is produced4 ,one will then be able to have some idea of the contents of a bottle1 from the label upon it4 ,at present the name on the bottle is no indication whatever of the wine within2 indeed1 the same name is on the outside of many totally distinct wines4 ,this change must assuredly come1 and the sooner it does the better for ,australian wines4 ,mr4 ,pownall1 in the course of his evidence before the ,royal ,commission on ,vegetable ,products in ,victoria1 also drew attention to this same want of uniformity4 ,he believed that each vineyard ought to aim at making a standard quality of wine1 so that wine-merchants might know what to expect from that vineyard4 ,the wines throughout ,australia should likewise1 as far as possible1 bear uniform names4 ,he stated that he had met wines in various vineyards grown from the same grape1 and called by different names2 and though this might seem a trivial matter1 yet it led to endless confusion4 ,moreover1 it should not be permitted to continue1 especially as it could be so easily rectified4 ,it must be said1 however1 that at the ,great ,western district1 in ,victoria1 a start has been made in the right direction4 ,a report on the vineyards of that locality referred to the gratifying fact that a marked tendency existed towards the adoption of a rational nomenclature of wines4 ,many of the leading growers were confining themselves to one red and one white wine4 ,some of them called their wine by the name of the vineyard1 adding the words ,hock1 ,chablis1 ,claret1 c4 after them4 ,this is unquestionably so far an improvement1 and it is to be hoped that before long the wine will be known by the name of the vineyard or district1 and by nothing else4 ,mr4 ,james ,smith has also strongly insisted upon the supreme importance of this uniformity1 especially as regards the quality of the wine4 ,and this is perfectly true4 ,the quality of any particular wine is solely dependent upon the season1 but the produce of any given vineyard should surely possess1 as he remarks1 a distinctive ,,cachet1 by which the palate is enabled to recognise it4 ,for instance1 an expert would not fail to distinguish between a ,chateau ,margaux and a ,chateau ,lafitte1 nor between a ,chateau ,latour and a ,haut ,brion4 ,notwithstanding the different vintages1 there is always a uniformity and continuity of flavour maintained through all these great growths4 ,but in the case of our ,australian wines there is a lamentable difference4 ,wines of the same denomination and from the same grower ,,differ ,,so ,,materially one year from those bearing a similar name1 and coming from the same cellar1 in another1 that it is difficult to believe they are the same4 ,as ,mr4 ,smith justly observes1 this is an unpardonable defect in the estimation of connoisseurs2 more especially such as attach themselves to a particular kind of wine1 and naturally drink it by preference4 ,constancy of type should be unremittingly aimed at by the vigneron4 ,and this can only be possible by continuous attention to each individual factor concerned in vine-growing and wine-making4 ,,the ,,future ,,success ,,of ,,the ,,australian ,,wine ,,industry--,,and ,,upon ,,what ,,it ,,depends4 ,figures help us considerably more than words in enforcing a proper idea of the magnitude to which the ,australian wine industry should develop4 ,it will be appropriate1 therefore1 to preface this portion by bringing forward a few speculative data4 ,in an earlier part of this chapter it was stated that the city of ,paris alone requires nearly #cjj1jjj gallons of wine daily1 and that this single city would consume in #ab days all the wine which the whole of ,australia takes #ab ,,months to make4 ,the population of ,paris is nearly two and a half millions1 while that of ,australia is three millions odd4 ,by considering these together it will be seen that the wine which it takes over three million people all the year to make1 lasts another two and a half million people only #ab days4 ,now1 the total annual wine yield of ,australia1 including both that used here and that which is exported1 is only worth about #hjj1jjj ,l4 ,it follows from the foregoing1 then1 that ,paris will in #ab days consume about #hjj1jjj ,l4 worth of wine1 and for the whole year the ,parisian figures for wine consumption will reach to something like #bj1jjj1jjj ,l4 ,let us suppose that ,australia were only a wine-drinking community1 as her climate unceasingly calls for4 ,it would be fair to assume that her yearly wine bill would be in accordance with the following rule of proportion4 ,if ,paris with her two and a half millions annually consumes wine to the amount of #bj1jjj1jjj ,l41 then ,australia with her three millions odd would surely require for her own use at least #bj1jjj1jjj l4 worth year by year4 ,and when it is remembered in addition that the export trade should be enormously in excess of any local requirements1 it will readily be see what a magnificent future only awaits its calling into being4 ,we cannot hope that our ,australian wines will take a high place amongst those of the world as long as they are not in general use by our own people4 ,there can be no keener reproach than to have it said3 ,why1 even the ,australians themselves do not drink their own wines4 ,and this is regrettedly the fact4 ,it is necessary1 therefore1 that first of all our people should take a very deep interest in all the details connected with vine-growing and wine-making1 and thus give some encouragement to those who are doing their best to establish what will ultimately become ,australia's brightest glory4 ,and it will be a good thing for this land when a knowledge of every point in the growing of the grape1 and every step in the making of the wine1 becomes part and parcel of our daily life4 ,the very hoardings of our streets are covered with advertisements of countless brands of whisky1 and of numberless varieties of ale4 ,but those setting forth the virtues of our wines are conspicuous by their absence4 ,it would seem that ,australia1 where our own wine should be the national beverage1 is almost the last country in which to find it4 ,it may be asked1 what are the reasons which lead to this disregard of the virtues possessed by our own wines8 ,the reply to this question is not an easy matter1 but ,i shall endeavour to answer it to the best of my ability4 ,the probability is1 if a dozen people were asked1 at random1 why ,australian wine is so little used in ,australia1 that at least that number of different explanations would be forthcoming4 ,the truth1 however1 is more likely to be found in a combination of reasons1 rather than from any one single cause4 ,these are obviously worth considering1 from the very fact that the knowing of what they consist is of the first importance in rectifying them4 ,i shall begin1 then1 by saving that the label on the bottle has much to answer for1 in that it is misleading4 ,it does not give any idea of what is to be found inside4 ,thus the word ,riesling1 on one bottle1 may be attached to a wine grown on the ,hunter1 in ,new ,south ,wales1 and on another to a wine from the ,yarra1 in ,victoria4 ,it is true that the wine from these two places may be grown from the same cepage4 ,but while the river ,yarra wine will contain perhaps #aa per cent4 of alcohol1 that from the ,hunter ,river will have quite #bj per cent4--so much does an increase in the warmth of the climate increase the alcoholic strength of the wine4 ,and while we are on the subject of labels1 ,i must certainly take exception to the unattractive character of those employed on the bottles of our ,australian wines4 ,there is no reason whatever why a little consideration should not be paid to the artistic sense in this respect4 ,our wine merchants1 it would appear1 fail to understand the selling power which belongs to the get-up of the label on a wine bottle4 ,i feel sure this attractiveness has a great deal to do with the success of many products1 notably in the case of the ,american preserved fruits4 ,some of these are labelled in a manner which is creditable in the highest degree--and what is more1 from a practical point1 it is no unimportant factor in their huge sale4 ,then again1 there is that want of uniformity which ,mr4 ,james ,smith has so ably descanted upon1 and to which ,i have already referred4 ,it is bad enough to have a wine labelled ,riesling1 or whatever it may be1 from one place differing entirely from a wine of the same name which comes from some other locality4 ,but it is a far more serious defect when the wine of any particular place one year differs entirely from the same wine coming from the same locality at another4 ,for the same variety of wine1 of the same vineyard1 thus to vary1 year by year1 is simply unpardonable4 ,this must not be allowed to continue1 for while it exists ,australian nines will always be subject to reproach--a reproach1 indeed1 which cannot be explained away4 ,and while dealing with these shortcomings ,i propose to speak of another matter1 which is by no means unimportant4 ,i refer to the size of the bottle4 ,it has frequently happened that visitors to ,australia hare said to me1 ,i should very much like--indeed1 ,i am anxious--to try your ,australian wines2 but unfortunately ,i cannot drink a whole bottle at table1 and ,i am unable to obtain less4 ,now1 this is undoubtedly a grievance1 and should be overcome in some way2 either by putting up a portion of our wines in smaller bottles1 or else by making some arrangement so that a smaller quantity may be obtained4 ,since these lines were written1 however1 it is very pleasing to record the fact that one enterprising firm in ,sydney has taken a highly commendable step in this very direction2 and already smaller bottles of ,australian wine may be obtained for the low prices of #f;d4 and #i;d4 ,up to this point ,i have made no remarks with regard to the knowledge of wine possessed by the majority of ,australians1 and yet in many respects it is the most important of all4 ,they are not called upon to pronounce an opinion upon a wine1 such as would be looked for from an expert4 ,but ,i do think it is very desirable that they should know1 at least1 the kind of wine that is suitable for ,australian use4 ,once this is accomplished1 and it is by no means difficult to learn1 a great deal will have been achieved4 ,it is quite a mistake to imagine that the value of a wine increases with its strength1 and that the stronger a wine is1 the more valuable it becomes4 ,even in ,europe itself strong wines are going out of fashion1 and lighter ones are taking their place4 ,people much prefer a light wine1 of which they can take a fair amount and quench their thirst1 in preference to a strong wine of the port or sherry type1 of which they can only take a small wineglassful4 ,but in ,australia1 the very place where one would expect a demand for all lighter wines1 the taste for strong wines as the rule4 ,this is another striking example of the same antagonism to climatic environment which is found all through our food habits4 ,a light wine is the wine above all others which should be most sought after4 ,what ,australia requires as a national beverage is a wine of low alcoholic strength4 ,it should be so cheap as to come within the easy every-day reach of all classes4 ,and finally1 it should take the place of all other liquids1 since it is essentially wholesome1 hygienic1 restorative1 and cheering4 ,the reputation of ,australian wines in the ,english market has hitherto been damaged to a considerable extent by the practices which have been followed on the part of some of the large buyers4 ,but before referring to these proceedings1 to which ,mr4 ,hans ,irvine1 of the ,great ,western ,vineyard1 in ,victoria1 has so properly and powerfully drawn attention1 it must be distinctly understood that any subsequent remarks do not apply to all the ,london wine-merchants4 ,on the contrary1 there are many whose characters are irreproachable1 and whose integrity is above suspicion4 ,by clearing the ground in this way one is enabled to protest against the treatment which ,australian wine receives in ,london1 without levelling charges against estimable men1 who command respect1 and who deserve the gratitude of all ,australians for their fair dealings4 ,well then1 most of our wines purchased by ,english buyers have been those of full-bodied1 crude1 and coarse young wines1 containing a great amount of alcohol4 ,two reasons have been assigned for this proceeding2 the first being that ,australian wines would not bear the voyage unless they were sufficiently strong2 and the second1 that in ,england the demand was more particularly for such a class of wine4 ,but many of these firms are utterly ignorant of any special knowledge as to treating the finer and more delicate wines4 ,it has suited these buyers to deal only with the stronger wines1 as they are the more secured from any loss or trouble4 ,for the fact is1 these wines1 while being of a greater alcoholic strength1 are really of most excellent character and quality4 ,and besides this1 they release certain customers1 whose idea of a good wine--even at the present time--is a wine of great body and strength1 and not so much one with that delicacy of character and bouquet which the finer wines possess4 ,some of the merchants1 having but little bother with the heavier wines1 have encouraged their sale to as great an extent as possible4 ,from this it follows that those who prefer and habitually drink a better class of wine have never had the opportunity of becoming acquainted with the magnificent wines which ,australia can supply4 ,as ,mr4 ,irvine tells us1 the higher types of fine1 light1 delicate1 dry wines1 with a richness of bouquet1 such as most districts in ,australia are capable of producing1 are the kinds of wine we must look forward to for establishing a name and fame for our produce4 ,it is not too much to assert that before very long ,australia will be able to supply wines whose quality will rival the choicest vintages of the most famous vineyards of ,europe4 ,even as it is1 the delicacy of bouquet and excellent characters of many of the ,australian red and white wines have fairly astonished connoisseurs on being submitted to them4 ,it seems a thousand pities1 then1 that such misconception should exist with regard to our wines4 ,and quite undeservedly so1 for as a matter of fact these lighter wines are most unfairly neglected4 ,they simply require to be properly fined and carefully attended to4 ,the casks in which they are shipped should be thoroughly cleansed and treated before being filled1 in order to take out any taint of spirits they may contain2 or any excess of tannin1 which is always present in ,dew wood4 ,if these different matters be looked to they will improve to a wonderful extent on the voyage1 and after being allowed a week or fortnight's rest on arrival1 they will be found in a highly satisfactory condition4 ,after this time these delicate wines of a low alcoholic strength require to be duly cared for4 ,but they are worth a little extra attention1 for it is absolutely certain that through them1 and through them alone1 will our ,australian wines be accorded the merit and the appreciation which they so undoubtedly deserve4 ,it must not be imagined1 however1 that the foregoing is the only handicap which ,australian wine has to carry4 ,in other cases there are many reprehensible proceedings adopted1 which irretrievably injure the reputation of our wines in the ,english market4 ,some of the inferior wines are shipped home and restored1 by blending them with full1 heavy1 rich wines from warmer districts4 ,when clothed in this way1 their imperfections are for a time hidden1 but the bad soon contaminates the whole4 ,it is true that a good1 sound1 and well-made wine improves with age4 ,but with these restored and clothed wines the reverse happens1 and they become worse and worse by keeping4 ,then again1 many of the widely advertised ,australian wines in the old country are sold too young2 and unfortunately these young wines constitute the bulk of the trade done with ,england4 ,they are bottled when too green and crude1 and have not been given a sufficient time in cask to develop into high-class wines4 ,they must be allowed to acquire a proper amount of cask ripeness1 and if they were stored and attended to for twelve months before being bottled they would vastly improve4 ,in some cases1 also1 wines are shipped from ,australia before they are twelve months old1 and as they are usually fined1 bottled1 and sold as soon as possible after arrival1 it has actually happened that the ,british public have repeatedly drunk wines that are hardly one year old4 ,indeed1 the wines are frequently bottled when in a state of fermentation1 consequently secondary fermentation goes on in the bottle1 and the bottles are often shattered by an explosion4 ,and more than this1 they are often badly blended2 they do not receive sufficient care and attention2 and they are not uncommonly in the hands of a few men whose sole object is to make money4 ,there is still something further which is greatly prejudicial to the fair name of ,australian wine1 and it is this3 ,many of the wine merchants hold very small stocks1 so that any one supply soon runs out and is no longer obtainable4 ,as a result it is urged against the wines that they are not constant1 and that it is impossible to procure the same wine twice running4 ,with larger stocks1 too1 there would be some certainty that the wine was matured1 as for example with a merchant holding a three years' supply4 ,in this case1 also1 the consumer would be enabled to obtain a continued supply of any particular wine to which he might have become attached4 ,my own belief1 however1 is that the most powerful impetus to our wine industry will arise from the ,australians themselves taking an interest in all that concerns this great source of health1 wealth1 and employment4 ,i have said so before1 and take this opportunity of saying so again4 ,let our people take an active interest in every detail connected with the growing of the grape1 and with the making of the wine6 ,let a light1 wholesome wine1 also1 enter into the daily dietary of the whole people6 ,for the national drink for ,australian use is unquestionably a wine of low alcoholic strength2 a wine of a sufficient age to be free from any reproach of newness2 and a wine possessing those qualities which render it wholesome1 beneficial1 hygienic1 cheering1 and restorative4 ,there are two other matters which require to be noticed before leaping the whole subject of ,australian wine4 ,the first of these is a reference to the establishment of ,viticultural ,colleges1 and it is one of very great importance1 because it has much to do with the development of the wine industry4 ,now1 ,i am not one of those who look to the ,state for everything1 but it seems to me that if you recognise the necessity of ,state education1 you must at least equally recognise the necessity of affording the youthful population of ,australia the opportunity of learning that which must eventually develop into the one distinctive industry of this land4 ,france at the present day1 even with her unrivalled reputation as the wine-growing country of the world1 avails herself of the advantages of ,viticultural ,colleges4 ,italy1 also1 by means of their help is making strides in a manner actually bordering on the miraculous4 ,if these countries1 then1 in which vine-growing and winemaking have been carried on for centuries find ,viticultural ,colleges indispensable1 how much more must a young country1 with its wine industry quite undeveloped1 need them6 ,it must with confidence be said1 therefore1 that ,australia cannot do without these ,viticultural ,colleges4 ,something has already been done by the establishment of ,agricultural ,colleges1 and this is most commendable4 ,but what ,i believe is this1 that a wine-grower must be a wine-grower and nothing else4 ,to know everything connected with the growth of the grape and cellar management thoroughly is quite enough for any ordinary man to attempt to master4 ,therefore viticulture must either be made a distinctly separate course at the ,agricultural ,colleges2 or1 what if better still1 ,viticultural ,colleges must be established for the purpose alone4 ,at ,montpellier1 in ,france1 the course of viticultural education is elaborately comprehensive1 and includes the study of the anatomy of the vine1 its flowers1 leaves1 seeds1 c4 ,the pupils become thoroughly acquainted with every variety of wine in practical form2 they see it grow1 learn the art of pruning1 and of everything pertaining to the growth of the vine4 ,they also master all the details connected with grafting1 the laying out of vineyards1 the diseases to which the vine is liable1 and the remedies which are most effectual4 ,and1 in addition1 there is minute instruction in every step in cellar management and the after care and treatment of the wine itself1 from the start to the finish4 ,in this way the subject is studied from a thoroughly scientific standpoint1 with a result that influences for good the whole of ,french viticulture4 ,but if the benefits derived from the establishment of ,viticultural ,colleges in ,france are thus remarkable1 those which have followed their introduction into ,italy are nothing less than wonderful4 ,the ,school of ,viticulture at ,conegliano has been the means of increasing the wine production of ,italy to an incredible extent4 ,in #ahgj ,italy exported only #d1jjj1jjj gallons of wine2 yet in #ahij1 in the short space of twenty years1 this had risen to #hh1jjj1jjj gallons4 ,this school has taught the people to make good wine2 it has induced people who had never dreamt of it to plant vineyards2 it hag led people to plant them properly1 since they were shown the way on a rational principle2 and lastly1 they have thus learnt how to make wine on a scientific basis4 ,the course of study there is extremely severe1 and as a result all those who receive diplomas from it thoroughly understand the cultivation of the vine and the management of the cellar4 ,this ,school of ,viticulture has been such a phenomenal success that other provinces of ,italy brought pressure upon the ,government4 ,as a consequence therefrom1 secondary schools have been established at many places1 notably ,gioia del ,colle1 ,pozzuolo1 ,tmola1 ,avellino1 ,alda1 ,catania1 c4 ,in conclusion1 there is that other most important matter to which ,i should like to draw attention4 ,it is to advocate the establishment of an ,australian ,wine-,growers' ,association on a federal basis4 ,the advantage resulting from the formation of a strong ,association1 with a numerically powerful membership roll1 would be very great4 ,such an organization would be well able to conduct a weekly paper of its own1 with contributors from all the different colonies4 ,there would be no dearth of literary material1 for the whole subject is one teeming with interest4 ,even now a substantial beginning has been made1 and ,,the ,,australian ,,vigneron ,,and ,,fruit-,,growers ,,journal is well deserving of success1 and is already doing good work in this very direction4 ,and besides the foregoing1 an ,intercolonial ,wine-,growers' ,congress should meet annually at the different ,australian metropolitan centres 7,sydney1 ,melbourne1 ,adelaide1 ,brisbane1 c471 in rotation1 where there would be the opportunity of discussing theoretical questions1 and of tasting practical results4 ,in all these many ways public interest in the ,australian wine industry would be continually sustained2 and1 rising from its unfairly neglected position1 it would speedily attain to that pride of place which is manifestly its destiny4 ,,part ,,ii4 ,,australian ,,cookery ,,recipes ,,and ,,accessory ,,kitchen ,,information4 ,,mrs4 ,h4 ,,wicken4 ,diplomee of the ,national ,training ,school for ,cookery1 ,london2 ,lecturer on ,cookery to the ,technical ,college1 ,sydney4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,the ,,kitchen ,furnishing the kitchen is often looked upon as quite of secondary importance2 but1 instead of being last and least1 it ought to be first and foremost1 for a cook cannot be expected to send up a good dinner without proper utensils1 any more than a carpenter can turn out a piece of furniture without proper tools4 ,it is no doubt a great mistake to have many things in use1 for a bad servant will have every one dirty before she begins to wash up1 and a good servant will have a lot of work in keeping them clean and in good order4 ,there are a few utensils1 not at all expensive1 which are a great aid to the cook and a saving of time too1 and yet from some cause or other are seldom found in an ordinary kitchen4 ,before glancing at these we might consider what is the best covering for the floor4 ,there is no doubt that deal boards well scrubbed look nicer than anything else1 but to keep them spotless involves a lot of labour1 and as this is not always to be had1 perhaps the wisest plan is to cover it with oilcloth or linoleum2 a good medium quality can be bought for #cs4 #c;d4 a square yard1 and if properly laid will last for years4 ,by the way1 it should not be washed1 but only rubbed with a damp cloth first and then with a piece of flannel dipped in oil soda and scrubbing will ruin it very quickly4 ,if the cupboard accommodation is scanty the dresser should be bought with cupboards underneath2 in this case it will cost about three pounds1 but if without cupboards one pound ten shillings4 ,a deal table is the best1 and this must be kept white with constant scrubbing2 while the cookery is going on a piece of oil baize might be laid over it4 ,pearson's carbolic sand soap will remove any grease spots very quickly2 the paste board and rolling pin can also be kept white in the same way4 ,it will be found an advantage to have two or three ,french or butchers' knives for cooking purposes1 instead of using the dinner knives4 ,these can be bought from #as4 #f;d4 each2 they are stronger and take a better edge than ordinary knives4 ,wooden and iron spoons will be found cheaper and better than using table spoons as these latter are soon ruined if used for stirring2 cookery spoons cost about #c;d4 each2 two of each would be found sufficient4 ,a conical strainer is more convenient and useful than the round ones so generally used4 ,for mixing bowls the agate iron are the best2 they are a little more expensive in the first place than the yellow earthenware1 but they are unbreakable1 and therefore cheaper in the end2 they cost about #ds4 #f;d4 each4 ,a small sausage machine is very necessary1 for by means of this useful contrivance many scraps of meat and bread can be utilized2 the cost of one is #ajs4 #f;d4 ,a pestle and mortar1 too1 will be found of great use in making up odds and ends into dainty tit-bits2 these1 too1 cost about #ajs4 #f;d4 ,wire and hair sieves are invaluable for preparing soups and many other dishes2 sieves with a wooden rim will be found the most durable2 they cost #bs4 #f;d4 ,each4 ,agate iron saucepans are light and durable and very easy to keep clean2 they are much better than the blue enamelled ware1 as they do not burn so readily or chip so soon4 ,frying pans are nice1 too1 of the same ware4 ,a set each of wire and metal dish-covers must not be forgotten2 the latter should be of plain blocked tin1 and as the fluted ones soon get shabby1 these should be well washed inside and out with scouring soap and polished with ,goddard's plate powder4 ,a ,french fryer is invaluable2 it will cost #gs4 #f;d4 ,three or four pounds of dripping clarified should be put at first2 this will require straining4 ,after being used once or twice1 the fryer should then be washed out with soda water1 well dried1 and the fat put back2 it can be renewed from time to time with some fresh fat1 and it will keep good for weeks4 ,when it looks very dark throw it away and start with a fresh lot of fat2 it can be used for fish1 rissoles1 fritters1 c41 and one can never tell that anything has been fried in it before1 if it attains the right heat before the ,,friture is put in4 ,it should be between boiling water heat 7#bab degrees7 and boiling fat 7#fjj degrees71 #che degrees being exactly right1 and can be tested by dropping in a small piece of bred4 ,if it browns instantly it is ready2 whatever is put into it will fry in two or three minutes4 ,food cooked in this way will not be so greasy and indigestible as it often is if cooked in a frying pan4 ,and now1 last and most important of all1 the stove2 for although we may do without a great many things which are nice and useful to have1 without a stove it is impossible to cook well4 ,it may be for gas1 wood1 or coal1 but it must act well4 ,gas stoves are extremely simple1 clean1 and easy to use1 there are no flues to get choked1 and in towns where gas is cheap it is no doubt the easiest and pleasantest heat to use4 ,to keep them clean and sweet they should be well washed inside and out with soda and water at least once a week and polished with a little ,electric black lead4 ,the flues of wood and coal stoves should be thoroughly cleansed out once a week1 and the oven cleansed with soap and soda2 this is very necessary work1 for if the ovens are not clean whatever is cooked in them will be spoilt4 ,a little thoughtful care in these matters will often prevent much trouble when cooking4 ,let a housekeeper1 therefore1 thoroughly master her stove first1 and understand the flues and dampers1 for only in this way will she be able to successfully cook the dishes she has skilfully prepared4 ,cleanliness and care in respect of the stove and kitchen utensils generally are as necessary to success as knowing the right materials to use and how to put them together1 and every one who can cook a dinner should also know how to clean and keep in good order the stove and all culinary utensils4 ,order and neatness must reign in the kitchen as well as in the drawing-room1 and it will help greatly to bring about this desirable state of affairs if all utensils are cleansed and put away immediately they are finished with1 for it is much easier to wash them then than if left dirty for some time4 ,as soon as the contents of a saucepan have been dished1 fill it with cold water1 add a lump of soda1 and stand it on the stove till hot2 it can then be washed up in a few minutes4 ,plates and dishes should at once be put into a bowl of hot or cold water2 treat spoons and forks in the same way4 ,knives1 wipe at once1 and clean as soon as possible4 ,a damp cloth rubbed with ,monkey soap will do wonders in removing stains and dust2 these1 if left for a time1 are hard to get off1 and the kitchen1 which ought to be bright and cheerful1 soon has a greasy1 dirty look4 ,some of us can call to mind delightful old kitchens in country houses1 which were a pleasure and a joy to both mistress and maids1 where bright copper stewpans reflected the blazing fire on all sides1 and metal covers shone like mirrors2 while as for eating off the floor1 one might certainly do it if so inclined1 without the peck of dirt at once4 ,how cosy and delightful everything seems in a kitchen like this1 and what visions can we not see of home-made bread and cakes1 well-cooked joints1 succulent vegetables1 delicious puddings1 dainty dishes of all kinds concocted with skilful fingers6 ,and why should not these visions turn into substantial realities8 ,they will do so if women will consider it a pleasure1 instead of a degradation1 to look well to the ways of her household1 and establish a system of order and neatness from cellar to garret4 ,when this happy time comes she will be emancipated from many cares and have more leisure to cultivate her intellect than she has now4 ,surely a study which helps to make cheerful homes and healthy1 well-conducted1 prosperous citizens is worth at least a trial4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,the ,,ice ,,chest ,an ice chest6 someone exclaims4 ,i should like to know how ,i am to get that4 ,well1 very easily indeed1 if there is a will to have one1 for then the way is plain4 ,a refrigerator years ago was perhaps only obtainable by the wealthy1 and regarded rightly by others as a not-to-be-thought-of-luxury2 but1 thanks to the rapid development of scientific knowledge1 both ice and refrigerators are now within the means of nearly all4 ,the ,americans in this led the way1 and those in the ,central ,states would no more dream of being without ice during the hot season1 than they would of failure to take daily supplies of bread and milk4 ,in almost every home through bright and sunny ,australia we find a piano and a sewing machine1 and yet either of these costs far more than an ice chest1 and perhaps as much to keep in repair as the ice to fill it4 ,looking at it from many points of view1 it ought to be considered an indispensable article of furniture1 and it has this great advantage over many household gods1 that the first expense is the last2 for it never gets out of order1 and lasts a lifetime2 and this cannot be said of many other pieces of furniture1 which perhaps cost more and yet are not so useful4 ,in such a warm climate as this1 where for six months in the year our one desire is to keep cool1 it must certainly be worth while to secure a simple and inexpensive article which will help us to attain this object4 ,looking at the matter from the ,domestic ,economy point of view1 we shall certainly decide at once in favour of the purchase4 ,housekeepers1 both young and experienced1 know how much food has to be thrown away because it will not keep sweet for even a few hours in the hot season4 ,all this waste is at an end if there is ice about1 as it will keep perishable food cool and pleasant and ready for a second meal4 ,many odds and ends of vegetables1 fish1 and meat can be turned into a dainty salad with the ice chest which must have been thrown away without it4 ,thus the expense1 not only of the ice1 but also of the chest1 is soon saved1 to say nothing of the pleasure and enjoyment of the said salad1 which one would so infinitely rather have had than the chops and steaks so universally served4 ,delicious little breakfast dishes can be concocted over night from the remains of fish and meat served at tea and put down into the ice all night4 ,these are cooked in a few minutes in the morning1 and form such a pleasant change to the standing dish of eggs and bacon2 and how proud a good house-keeper will feel when her little dishes are enjoyed1 and she knows that they have cost nothing6--for the food would not have kept1 and must therefore have been thrown away if she had not possessed an ice chest4 ,this is only one instance of what may be accomplished1 but in the daily routine of work many more will be found4 ,think1 for a moment1 of the state of the butter without ice on a hot day4 ,who does not dread the sight of the liquid or greasy fat usually seen in the butter-dish1 and what a remote chance there is of enjoying a slice of bread and butter with bread as hard and dry as a brickbat1 and butter running to oil8 ,put both into a refrigerator and note the difference4 ,look at it1 also1 from the hygenic standpoint4 ,most people1 save the very strong and robust1 lose their appetite during the hot season1 and therefore feel languid and weak4 ,give them dry bread and liquid butter1 and they can't touch a morsel2 but with fresh bread1 hard butter1 and some dainty tit-bit1 kept in the ice also1 placed before them1 a good meal is often enjoyed4 ,again1 in cases of illness ice becomes at once a necessity2 and if it is at hand in the house and ready for use much time and trouble will be saved1 and suffering too1 as the poor invalid waits with what patience he can for the relief which is so often brought with ice4 ,and now we come to the practical question of how we are to get it1 and how to keep it4 ,there are several companies who undertake to deliver a daily supply of ice in town and country at a very moderate price1 about sixpence a block of #aj lbs42 but when there is a larger demand for it1 it will very soon be supplied at even a cheaper rate4 ,there is a very simple little ,american invention which makes ice very quickly4 ,it is not by any means expensive1 about #ba4 #bs4 #j;d41 and is invaluable in country districts away from the railway4 ,then for a refrigerator there are several very simple chests which require only a small quantity of ice to keep them charged4 ,the smallest and cheapest is the ,baldwin1 costing from #cjs41 and another is the ,iceberg1 which acts splendidly4 ,unlike other machines1 which are liable from their complicated structure to get out of order1 these are so simple that they require no repairs1 but only strict cleanliness to keep them in good order4 ,they should be well washed out with soap and soda at least once a week1 and care taken that no little bits of food are left in when the plate containing the main part is removed1 for these morsels will cause an unpleasant smell and quickly taint anything that may be put in afterwards4 ,it is better not to break the ice up1 but to put the whole block in the refrigerator1 and when once it is in to close the lid securely and keep it closed4 ,it is a good plan to put a piece of newspaper over the block1 as that forces the cold air down into the lower chamber4 ,the larger blocks will be found almost as cheap as the small ones1 as if carefully used they last much longer4 ,no doubt1 as the desire for ice increases1 smaller blocks1 costing perhaps #b;d41 or #c;d41 will be made1 or the present prices reduced to that figure4 ,this1 to a great extent1 is in the hands of the consumers1 for as soon as there is a more spirited demand some energetic firm will arise and supply the want1 and we shall have1 not only cheaper ice1 but cheaper ice-chests too4 ,dr4 ,muskett has pointed out some of the advantages of ice in his work on ,,the ,,health ,,and ,,diet ,,of ,,children ,,in ,,australia1 as will be seen from the following paragraph3-- ,in our semi-tropical climate a dislike is often taken to butter1 when it is presented at breakfast in the form of semi-liquid grease4 ,it would require a person with the stomach of an ostrich to digest1 to say nothing of relish1 such an oleaginous composition during our summer months4 ,but if this necessary and all-important article of diet can be presented in an appetising form1 what a desirable result is achieved6 ,the mass of the people--,i am not referring to those who are well endowed with wordly gifts--are apt to look upon the ,ice ,chest as a luxury which is altogether beyond their means4 ,but ,i am firmly persuaded that if the price of ice were brought down to one halfpenny per pound1 and that if a company were formed to deliver such a small quantity as six pounds per day1 or every second day1 it would be a great boon1 and1 moreover1 a wonderfully profitable speculation4 ,a very small and suitable ,ice ,chest could be constructed solely to preserve the butter in a congealed and therefore palatable state1 both to children and to adults4 ,the former would take it with great avidity1 and the benefit to health resulting therefrom would be incalculable4 ,even in some of the better-class houses ,ice is looked upon too much as a luxury1 and not as it should be1 a necessity2 indeed1 the money saved from gas during the summer months might well be expended on ,ice4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,the ,,stock ,,pot4 ,the stock pot is indispensable to good cooking1 and although many soups and sauces can be made with water as a foundation1 nearly all of them are improved by using stock1 and no cook who desires to achieve good results should be without a basin of stock when she commences operations in the morning4 ,there are saucepans now called digesters1 which are most useful as stock pots1 but any good-sized saucepan or boiler will do very well indeed4 ,this should be put on fresh every morning with everything the larder contains that is suitable--such1 for instance1 as the bones of fresh or cooked meat1 poultry1 or rabbits4 ,never put in fat1 as this can be rendered down for pastry and frying1 and only makes the stock greasy2 always cover the bones with cold water1 but regulate the quantity by the material used4 ,put in cold water with a teaspoonful of salt1 and when it boils up1 skim well2 when skimming1 take an iron spoon and a basin of water1 and dip the spoon in the water each time the scum is removed2 then put in the peppercorns and vegetables4 ,in very hot weather put peppercorns and a fagot of herbs only1 as the vegetables cause the stock to turn sour very soon2 peppercorns should always be used1 as they impart a much pleasanter flavour to soup than pepper4 ,a fagot of herbs is made with a bay or peach leaf1 a sprig each of parsley1 thyme1 and marjoram tied together with a piece of cotton4 ,these herbs can be grown so easily if one has a small garden1 or even in a box1 with very little care2 they impart such a pleasant flavour to soups and gravies4 ,leeks cut up with the green tops and put into the stock pot instead of onions are very good4 ,part of the onion skin left on makes a good colour1 but it can be coloured by burning half a teaspoonful of sugar in an old spoon1 or by a few drops of caramel--the recipe for which is given elsewhere4 ,all fresh meat and bones should be carefully trimmed and wiped with a warm damp cloth before putting into the pot2 when the stock has boiled1 stand the saucepan at the back of the stove and simmer slowly for at least five or six hours4 ,if strong stock is desired1 leave the lid off the saucepan for the last hour2 the water will then evaporate and make the stock richer4 ,the stock should be strained through a hair sieve or a colander1 and should stand in a cool place till the next day4 ,if it has been carefully made it will be in a jelly2 the fat can very easily be removed with a spoon4 ,it should finally be wiped with a damp cloth4 ,removing the fat thoroughly is a most important item1 for greasy soups and sauces are most indigestible and unwholesome4 ,if the stock has to be used at once1 remove the fat first with a spoon1 and then pass pieces of this paper lightly across the surface2 these will absorb the fat4 ,a small piece of charcoal laid on top of the stock will prevent it turning sour in the hot weather4 ,with this basin of stock to work on1 many dainty tit-bits are possible which could not be made without it4 ,how often has the cookery book been searched for something nice and laid down with a sigh when half a pint of gravy has been found necessary to concoct the desired dainty6 ,but with a basin of stock on hand1 all these things are procurable1 and it certainly does not take more than ten minutes to break up the bones1 skim the pot1 and strain it1 and last of all it costs nothing4 ,in cases of sudden emergency1 when stock is wanted and is not to be had1 the recipe for ,quick ,beef ,tea answers very well1 using one quart of water instead of one pint1 and by adding a few vegetables2 this is made in five minutes4 ,white soup is looked upon as quite a high-class soup1 but it is just as easy to make as any other kind4 ,a piece of stewed veal or mutton1 or a boiled chicken1 gives the stock at once1 or the bones of mutton1 veal1 or pork alone will form the foundation4 ,never throw away the water in which carrots1 parsnips1 celery1 or even cauliflowers have been boiled4 ,vegetables contain a great deal of potash1 which is a valuable food for the blood4 ,a great deal of this potash comes out in the water during the process of cooking2 if this liquor is used as a foundation for soup1 we utilize this4 ,for this reason vegetable soups1 and stews containing plenty of vegetables1 are such a good diet for anyone suffering from or subject to diseases of the blood and bones4 ,these simple facts seem to be overlooked2 but if ,australia is to become in the future1 as we all hope it may1 a power in the world second to none1 the wives and mothers of her husbands and sons must understand the necessity of providing them with a diet which shall make them strong and brave1 and root out what now seems to be the curse of the land-- dyspepsia--brought on in a great measure by badly cooked and therefore indigestible food4 ,the remedy for this is in the hands of the women of ,australia1 and if they will rise to their position and importance and do their work with a high and holy motive1 they will not find it the drudgery it is often supposed to be4 ,what does ,owen ,meredith say8-- ,we may live without poetry1 music1 and art1 ,we may live without conscience1 and live without heart1 ,we may live without friends1 we may live without books1 ,but civilised man cannot live without cooks4 ,he may live without books--what is knowledge but grieving8 ,he may live without hope--what is hope but deceiving8 ,he may live without love--what is passion but pining8 ,but where is the man that can live without dining8 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,soup ,soup is a much neglected food2 there are many excuses made for this-- one says it is expensive1 another it is too much trouble and quite unnecessary4 ,when once the principle of the stock pot is understood the first excuse falls through1 for in any ordinary households the stock can be made from bones and trimmings of meat1 and costs nothing4 ,neither does the excuse of too much trouble hold good4 ,some little time must be devoted to cooking1 and soup will almost cook itself while other preparations are going on1 and it can be made at any time and just boiled up when required4 ,as for being unnecessary1 that is quite a mistake4 ,to give the greatest amount of nourishment with the least trouble to the digestive organs should be the study of every housekeeper1 and soup is a valuable aid in this respect4 ,for weakly and delicate constitutions1 for the young and the aged1 there is no better food1 and for the busy workers it is invaluable1 for immediately after work the digestive organs are not in a proper state to do hard work1 and little soup prepares the stomach for the more solid food to follow4 ,it is quite a mistake to suppose that a rich1 heavy soup is necessary1 and that a large quantity must be taken4 ,in either case1 the effect would be to take away the appetite1 instead of which it is to stimulate and encourage the appetite that the soup should be given4 ,soup is a splendid restorative1 and if given to any one suffering from exhaustion or over fatigue will quickly restore strength1 and be found far better than any stimulant4 ,soup is often disliked because it is greasy and served lukewarm2 if the directions given in the paragraph on the stock pot for removing the fat be carried out1 it will never be greasy1 and if it is boiled up just before serving1 it will be hot4 ,allow half a pint of soup for each guest1 have a warm tureen and hot plates1 and try the effect4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,fifty ,,recipes ,,for ,,soups4 ,,stock ,,from ,,bones 7,,fresh ,,bones74 99 ,bones--#c;d4 99 99 ,vegetables--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 ,beef bones are the best for this stock2 break them up very small with a chopper1 put them into a large saucepan and cover well with cold water1 add two teaspoonsful of salt1 and when it boils up remove the scum carefully1 and put in one onion1 one carrot1 half a turnip1 a little piece of the outside stalk of celery1 and one dozen peppercorns4 ,boil steadily for six hours1 or longer1 then strain off through a colander or sieve1 and stand in a cool place till the next day4 ,carefully remove the fat by directions given elsewhere1 and it is ready for use4 ,this stock is a good foundation for all soups1 gravies1 and sauces4 ,in very hot weather omit all the vegetables4 ,,stock ,,from ,,bones 7,,no4 #b7 ,the bones from all joints of meat1 whether roasted or boiled1 make excellent stock4 ,beef bones are the best1 but very good stock can be made from mutton and veal bones4 ,the bones and trimmings of all kinds of poultry1 game1 and rabbits are also excellent1 particularly for soups that require a special flavour4 ,to make this stock successfully care must be taken to remove all pieces that may be burnt1 as these give the stock an unpleasant flavour4 ,the bones must be chopped very small1 and well covered with cold water4 ,when the pot boils put in a teaspoonful of salt and skim well1 then boil steadily for six hours or longer2 strain off and remove the fat1 and it is ready for use1 but it is much better to let it stand till the next day before converting it into soup or gravy4 ,,fish ,,stock ,vegetables and ,peppercorns--#a;d4 ,fish for nearly all dishes is better if boned before cooking2 it is also economy to do this1 as the bones can then be used for stock for fish soups4 ,these soups1 although not well known here at present1 are a valuable food2 they are easy to make1 wholesome1 and nourishing4 ,after the fillets of fish have been removed1 directions for which are given amongst the fish recipes1 take the bones1 wash them well in cold water1 and cut away any black substance that may be adhering to them4 ,break them up and put into a saucepan with a teaspoonful of salt2 when it boils remove the scum and put in one dozen white peppercorns1 a fagot of herbs1 one onion1 and one carrot2 boil steadily for two hours or longer1 strain through a sieve into a basin1 and it is ready for use4 ,,pot ,,boilings ,water in which meat of fish has been boiled should never be thrown away1 as it forms an excellent foundation for many soups and sauces which might otherwise have to be made with water4 ,if a large quantity of water has been used1 the boilings will be poor2 therefore1 when the meat has been taken up1 leave the pot on the fire and let it boil quickly1 without the lid1 for an hour or so1 then strain off for use4 ,the water in which corned beef or pork has been cooked is generally too salt for soups1 but it should be stood away till cold1 when a thick cake of fat will be found on the top4 ,put this into a basin and pour over it some boiling water2 when it is cold again it can be used for cakes and pastry4 ,it makes an excellent and wholesome substitute for butter in cooking4 ,,veal ,,stock 99 ,knuckle of ,veal 99 99 ,peppercorns and ,vegetables 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aj;d4 99 ,the butcher should chop the bones very small4 ,cut the meat across in several places1 lay it in a very clean stock pot1 cover well with cold water1 and bring to the boil slowly2 put in a dessertspoonful of salt1 and skim very carefully2 draw away from the fire1 place it where it will boil steadily1 put in #b dozen white peppercorns1 one onion stuck with six cloves1 and a fagot of herbs4 ,this is made with a sprig each of parsley1 marjoram1 and thyme1 tied up with a bay or peach leaf2 boil steadily for six hours1 and strain off4 ,this is the foundation for the best white soups and sauces2 it is also a very nutritious broth for invalids4 ,the meat can be made hot again in about half a pint of the stock and served with parsley butter sauce4 ,a recipe for this is given with the sauces4 ,,beef ,,stock 99 ,leg of ,beef--#i;d4 99 99 ,vegetables--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aj;d4 99 ,the bone in this meat should be chopped small by the butcher4 ,remove the marrow from the bones1 and cut the meat into small pieces2 put all together into a stock pot or digester1 cover well with cold water1 and bring it to the boil2 add a dessertspoonful of salt2 this will throw up the scum1 which must be carefully removed4 ,when this has been done put in #b dozen peppercorns1 an onion1 and two carrots1 draw away from the fire and let it boil steadily for five or six hours or longer1 then strain off through a colander and stand away in a cool place4 ,this is the foundation for nearly all good brown soups4 ,the bones boiled again will make second stock1 and the meat does very well for brawn1 a recipe for which is given amongst the meat dishes4 ,,beef ,,tea--,,no4 #a 99 #a lb4 ,gravy ,beef 99 99 #a pint water 99 99 #c;d4 99 ,remove all fat and skin from the meat and put it twice through a sausage machine or scrape it into a pulp with a sharp knife1 pour over the cold water1 and let it stand for an hour4 ,pour it into a brown baking jar and put it into a cool oven1 and keep it below boiling point for an hour or longer1 according to the heat of the oven4 ,it should look brown1 thick1 and rich1 when sufficiently cooked4 ,strain through a colander1 add salt to taste1 and it is ready to serve4 ,,quick ,,beef ,,tea--,,no4 #b 99 #a lb ,gravy ,beef 99 99 #a pint water 99 99 #c;d4 99 ,pass the meat twice through a sausage machine1 put it into a saucepan1 pour over the cold water1 and stand on the stove2 stir constantly until it comes to boiling point1 but do not allow it to boil4 ,as soon as it changes colour from red to brown strain through a colander1 add salt to taste1 and it is ready to serve4 ,,raw ,,beef ,,tea4 #a_/d lb ,gravy ,beef and #a gill of ,water ,scrape the meat to a pulp with a sharp knife1 pour over it with water2 cover over and stand away for an hour4 ,strain off1 and it is ready4 ,as this is given to an invalid in small quantities1 very little should be made at a time4 ,,beef ,,essence4 #a lb ,gravy ,beef--#c;d4 ,mince the meat very small1 put it into a brown baking jar1 and cover down with a closely-fitting lid or with brown paper4 ,stand in a saucepan of boiling water for one hour1 pour off the essence1 add a little salt1 and it is ready4 ,,mutton ,,broth #d or #e scrags of ,mutton and ,shank ,bones--#f;d ,carefully trim the scrags of mutton1 remove the pith from the bones1 and wipe with a damp cloth2 break these and the shank bones into very small pieces2 put them into an enamelled saucepan1 well covered with cold water2 add a teaspoonful of salt1 stand on the stove1 and when it boils up remove the scum very carefully4 ,add #a dozen peppercorns1 and an onion and carrot1 if vegetables are allowed the patient4 ,boil steadily for eight or nine hours2 the liquor should then be reduced to one quart4 ,strain off1 and1 if possible1 let it stand till quite cold2 it should then be in a jelly1 and can be made hot as required4 ,when serving this to a convalescent a spoonful of rice or pearl barley well washed in cold water and boiled in either stock or milk may be added4 ,,cock-,a-,,leekie ,,soup 99 #i ,leeks--#c;d4 99 99 #a set of ,giblets 99 99 #b oz4 ,beef ,dripping 99 99 #c quarts ,water or ,pot ,boilings 99 99 ,salt and ,peppercorns--#d;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 ,wash and slice up the leeks into pieces about one inch long1 put them into a saucepan with the butter or dripping made thoroughly hot2 cover over and let them cook for half an hour1 stirring occasionally4 ,while they are cooking clean the giblets thoroughly1 washing them first in hot and then in cold water4 ,cut open the gizzard1 remove the stones1 and cleanse well4 ,cut them all up into small pieces and put them into the saucepan with the leeks1 pour over the boiling water or liquor1 put in the peppercorns tied in a piece of muslin1 and a piece of bacon rind if there is any in the larder4 ,let it simmer slowly for three hours2 if not brown enough add a few drops of caramel1 take out the peppercorns and bacon rind1 season to taste1 pour into a hot tureen and serve4 ,,cabbage ,,and ,,bacon ,,soup 99 #a ,cabbage--#c;d4 99 99 #a lb4 ,bacon--#i;d4 99 99 #a doz4 ,peppercorns 99 99 #b ,turnips 99 99 #a ,carrot 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 ,pieces of ,stale ,bread--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #a;d4 99 99 ,time--,three ,hours and a ,half 99 ,this soup is not as expensive as it appears1 for the bacon is served as a dish of meat1 either after the soup or cold for breakfast or tea4 ,put two quarts of water into a saucepan2 when it boils put in a pound of bacon neither too lean nor too fat4 ,let it boil slowly for one hour4 ,the bacon must be well washed and scraped before cooking1 and when it boils skim the pot thoroughly4 ,well wash the cabbage and soak it in hot water for half an hour4 ,take all the water away and put the cabbage into the saucepan with the bacon and vegetables cut up1 and the peppercorns tied in a piece of muslin2 let them simmer together for two and a half hours1 take up the cabbage1 and cut it into quarters4 ,take one quarter and cut it into small pieces and put it into a soup tureen4 ,cut some stale pieces of bread into thin slices and lay on the top1 pour over the boiling liquor1 and serve4 ,dish the bacon1 pull off the rind1 and put the rest of the cabbage round the dish4 ,,italian ,,soup 99 #b oz4 ,macaroni--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #b quarts ,water or ,pot ,boilings 99 99 #b ,tomatoes 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #b oz4 ,cheese ,rind--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour4 99 ,put the water or stock on to boil1 and when it boils put in the macaroni and boil from twenty-five to thirty minutes4 ,while it is boiling grate up a dry piece of cheese4 ,put the tomatoes into boiling water and remove the skin1 slice them up and put them into a saucepan with the butter and some pepper and salt1 and cook them for a few minutes4 ,when the macaroni is soft1 cut it into pieces one inch long1 put a layer of tomatoes at the bottom of the soup tureen1 then a layer of grated cheese1 then one of macaroni2 repeat this until all the materials are used up1 pour over it boiling the liquor in which the macaroni has been cooked1 cover down for a few minutes1 and serve4 ,,pot-,,au-,,feu 99 #c lbs4 ,leg of ,beef--#f;d4 99 99 #b quarts ,water 99 99 #a fagot of ,herbs 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper 99 99 #b ,onions 99 99 #b ,carrots 99 99 #b ,turnips 99 99 #a doz4 ,peppercorns--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,five ,hours 99 ,pot-au-feu is the national dish of ,france2 it is cheap1 nourishing and palatable1 and very simple to make4 ,the slower it is cooked the better it is2 in fact1 in this lies the whole secret of success1 for if it boils instead of simmering it is spoilt4 ,tie the meat up into a nice shape with a piece of tape1 put it into cold water1 bring slowly to the boil1 and very carefully remove the scum2 peel and slice up the vegetables1 and put them in with the fagot of herbs and the peppercorns tied in a piece of muslin2 bring to simmering point1 and keep it so for five hours4 ,the liquor can then be served as a soup with part of the vegetables and some sippets of toast4 ,take the tapes off the meat1 and serve with the rest of the vegetables round the dish as a border or garnish4 ,the remains of the beef can be pressed between heavy weights till cold1 or put into a brawn tin and served cold with a salad4 ,,vermicelli ,,soup 99 #a oz4 ,vermicelli--#a;d4 99 99 ,vegetables and ,saffron 99 99 #b quarts ,bone ,stock--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,the stock for this soup should be good and in a strong jelly when cold4 ,put it into a saucepan with three or four threads of saffron1 an onion or leek stuck with six cloves1 #a dozen white peppercorns and some salt1 and boil all together for half an hour2 then strain out the vegetables and put it back into the saucepan4 ,it should be of a bright straw colour2 if it is not1 a thread more saffron may be added before straining4 ,put in the vermicelli broken small1 and simmer for twenty minutes2 it is then ready to serve4 ,,mulligatawny ,,soup 99 #b quarts ,stock 99 99 #a ,apple 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a ,carrot--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,curry ,powder 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,the liquor in which poultry or a rabbit has been boiled is the best for this soup4 ,slice up the apple1 onion1 and carrot1 and fry them in the butter2 sprinkle over the curry powder and flour and brown that too2 pour over the boiling stock and stir until it boils up1 simmer gently for one hour1 then rub through a sieve and return to the saucepan4 ,bring to the boil1 flavour with salt and lemon juice4 ,pour into a warm tureen and serve4 ,send well-boiled rice to the table with this soup4 ,,french ,,soup 99 #c ,potatoes 99 99 #c ,carrots 99 99 #b ,turnips--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #b quarts ,bone ,stock 99 99 ,pepper 99 99 #b ,onions 99 99 #a_/b stalk ,celery--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,sugar 99 99 ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,peel and slice up the vegetables and sprinkle them with the sugar and salt1 and put them into a saucepan with the butter1 and sweat for five minutes4 ,pour over the boiling stock and stir until it boils2 boil slowly for an hour1 then rub through a sieve4 ,if it is too thick1 reduce it with a little more stock or milk1 return to a saucepan1 and bring to the boil4 ,when tomatoes are in season slice up two with the other vegetables2 these will make the soup a good colour and improve the flavour4 ,,sago ,,soup 99 #c oz4 ,sago--#a;d4 99 99 #a pint ,milk--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 #b quarts ,bone ,stock 99 99 #a ,leek 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour4 99 ,wash the sago in cold water1 boil the leek in the stock for ten minutes1 take it out and stir in the sago2 continue stirring until the sago is transparent and the stock quite thick1 then pour in the milk and bring up to the boil4 ,season with salt and pepper1 and serve4 ,,celery ,,soup 99 #b heads of ,celery--#b;d4 99 99 #b quarts ,pot ,boilings 99 99 #a pint of ,milk--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,sago--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,if vegetables have been boiled with the meat the stock will be sufficiently flavoured2 if not1 boil an onion and carrot in it and strain out4 ,wash the celery thoroughly and cut it into pieces one inch long1 put it into the boiling stock and boil for half an hour1 then sprinkle in #a oz of sago and stir until it is transparent4 ,pour in the milk and bring to boiling point2 it is then ready to serve4 ,this is an excellent soup for any one suffering from or subject to rheumatism or gout4 ,,turnip ,,and ,,rice ,,soup 99 #d ,turnips--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,rice--#a;d4 99 99 #b quarts ,water 99 99 #a pint ,milk--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,onion and ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,quarter 99 ,peel and slice up the turnips1 wash the rice and put into a saucepan with the onion and #a dozen white peppercorns4 ,pour over the water and boil for an hour1 rub through a sieve and return to the saucepan1 with the milk and a seasoning of salt and pepper2 stir until it boils1 then pour into a warm tureen and sprinkle some chopped parsley on top4 ,this soup is much improved by putting one ounce of butter into the water in which the rice and turnips are boiled4 ,,tapioca ,,soup 99 #b oz4 ,tapioca--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a ,carrot 99 99 #c quarts ,bone ,stock--#a_/b;d4 99 ,boil the onion and carrot in the stock for twenty minutes4 ,if the stock is not a good colour put in half a teaspoonful of burnt sugar4 ,strain out the vegetables1 wash the tapioca in cold water and stir it in2 continue stirring until the tapioca is quite clear1 flavour with salt and lemon juice1 and serve very hot4 ,this soup should be quite transparent and of a bright brown colour4 ,,water ,,souchet 99 #f ,small ,fish--#as4#f;d4 99 99 ,vegetables 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper 99 99 ,lemon ,juice--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #g;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,half4 99 ,choose small fish of different kinds and fillet them4 ,as only half the fillets are wanted for the souchet1 the rest may be dressed in another way4 ,wash the bones in cold water and remove the black substance from them1 put them into two quarts of cold water with a teaspoonful of salt1 and when it boils remove the scum and add #a dozen peppercorns1 one carrot1 one small turnip1 one onion1 a small piece of celery1 and a fagot of herbs4 ,put the vegetables in whole4 ,boil this together for one hour1 then strain off through a hair sieve and return to the saucepan2 wash the vegetables that have been boiled in it1 slice them up and put them into the liquor4 ,cut the fillets of fish into small pieces and put them in2 simmer for half an hour1 then put in a little lemon juice1 pour into a tureen1 and sprinkle a little chopped parsley on the top4 ,send brown bread and butter to table with it and a lemon4 ,,oyster ,,soup 99 #a bottle ,oysters--#as4 99 99 #a pint of ,milk--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,cornflour and ,vegetables 99 99 #b quarts ,fish ,stock--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#a s4 #c #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,if there is no fish stock1 use pot boilings4 ,as this is a white soup a special saucepan must be used4 ,put the stock and the liquor from the bottle of oysters into this stewpan with an onion stuck with six cloves1 #b dozen white peppercorns1 and a fagot of herbs1 and boil together for half an hour1 then strain off and return to the saucepan with the milk4 ,when nearly boiling thicken with a tablespoonful of cornflour and boil two or three minutes2 put in the oysters and simmer for five minutes4 ,flavour with a little lemon juice1 nutmeg1 and salt4 ,pour into a warm tureen1 and send fried bread to table with it4 ,,brown ,,macaroni ,,soup 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,macaroni--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,vegetables--#a;d4 99 99 ,cornflour 99 99 #b quarts ,bone ,stock--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,quarter4 99 ,slice up the onions or leeks1 one carrot1 and make a fagot of herbs2 fry them in the butter with #a dozen peppercorns till they are quite brown1 but not burnt4 ,sprinkle over a tablespoonful of cornflour1 and when brown pour over the boiling stock and stir till it boils up2 let it simmer for an hour4 ,if it is not brown enough1 burn a little sugar in a spoon and stir it in4 ,if half a teaspoonful of sugar is sprinkled over the vegetables when they are frying they will brown much quicker4 ,when the vegetables are soft rub the soup through a wire sieve and return to the saucepan4 ,boil the macaroni in salt and water for twenty minutes1 strain off1 and cut into pieces one inch long2 put these into the soup and simmer for a quarter of an hour4 ,flavour with a little salt and pepper if necessary1 and pour into a hot tureen4 ,,haricot ,,bean ,,soup 99 #a lb4 ,haricot ,beans--#d;d4 99 99 #b ,onions 99 99 #a_/b pint of ,milk 99 99 #b quarts ,bone ,stock--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,four ,hours 99 ,soak the haricot beans for an hour or two1 then put them into a saucepan with the stock or water1 the onions1 and #a dozen white peppercorns2 boil for four hours and then rub through a sieve1 return to the saucepan with the milk and seasoning of pepper and salt1 stir until it boils4 ,it is then ready to serve4 ,an ounce of butter stirred in just before it is finished is a great improvement4 ,this is one of the most nourishing soups that can be made4 ,it is an excellent food for outdoor workers4 ,when butter is dear1 sweat the haricots in #a oz4 of beef dripping4 ,,milk ,,soup 99 #b lbs4 ,potatoes--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a_/b pint of ,milk 99 99 #c pints of ,water--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,peel1 wash1 and slice up the potatoes and onions and put them into a saucepan with the butter1 and stir them about till all the butter is dissolved and worked into the potatoes1 but they must not get brown4 ,pour over the boiling water and boil until they are of a pulp1 then rub them through a sieve1 return to the saucepan1 add the milk and seasoning1 and stir till it boils4 ,pour into a hot tureen1 and serve with fried bread4 ,,onion ,,soup 99 #d ,onions--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a gill of ,milk 99 99 #b quarts of ,stock 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,peel and slice up the onions and fry them in the butter till they are a good brown colour4 ,sprinkle over the flour and brown that too4 ,pour on the boiling stock and boil steadily till the onions are very soft1 then rub through a sieve4 ,if there is any fat on it remove it carefully1 pour back into the saucepan1 add the milk1 pepper1 and salt1 and boil up4 ,just before serving put in a few drops of lemon juice4 ,send fried bread to table with it4 ,,pumpkin ,,soup 99 #a small ,pumpkin--#d;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,butter--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint of ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,onions1 #a ,carrot 99 99 #b quarts of ,water--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#h;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,half4 99 ,peel and slice up the pumpkin1 onions1 and carrot1 put them into a saucepan with half the butter1 and sweat the vegetables in it for five minutes1 then pour over the boiling water and boil until the vegetables are very soft4 ,rub through a sieve and return to the saucepan with the milk and some pepper and salt2 stir until it boils up4 ,just before serving1 stir in1 in tiny pieces1 the rest of the butter and a little lemon juice4 ,,vegetable ,,soup 99 #b lbs4 ,mixed ,vegetables--#d;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,butter--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb ,haricot ,beans--#a;d4 99 99 ,peppercorns1 ,salt1 and ,sugar 99 99 #d quarts of ,water--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,half4 99 ,take any vegetables that may be in season1 such as carrots1 turnips1 leeks1 onions1 and celery1 and slice them up2 put them into a saucepan with the haricot beans and the butter1 and turn them all about till the butter is all absorbed2 sprinkle over them a teaspoonful each of salt and sugar1 add the peppercorns and the water1 and boil until the vegetables are very soft4 ,rub them through a sieve1 return to the saucepan and make thoroughly hot1 and it is ready to serve4 ,,semolina ,,soup 99 #b oz4 ,semolina--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint of ,milk 99 99 #c pints ,bone ,stock 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,if the stock has been made without vegetables1 as it must often be in hot weather1 boil an onion1 carrot1 fagot of herbs1 and a dozen peppercorns in it for half an hour1 then strain the stock and put it back in the saucepan4 ,sprinkle in the semolina and stir until it boils2 simmer till the semolina thickens1 then add the milk1 pepper1 and salt1 and boil up4 ,pour into a warm tureen1 and send fried bread to table with it4 ,,carrot ,,soup 99 #f ,carrots--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,sugar1 ,salt1 and ,pepper 99 99 #c quarts ,bone ,stock--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,scrape and slice up the carrots and put them into a saucepan with the butter4 ,sprinkle over a teaspoonful each of salt and sugar and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper2 turn them about in butter for five minutes1 pour over the boiling stock and boil for an our4 ,rub through a sieve1 return to the saucepan and boil up1 season to taste1 and serve very hot4 ,,tomato ,,soup 99 #a doz4 ,tomatoes--#d;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,onions1 #a ,carrot 99 99 #b oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,salt and #a teaspoonful ,sugar 99 99 #b doz4 ,peppercorns 99 99 #c quarts ,bone ,stock--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,slice up the onions and carrot1 and fry them in the butter with the peppercorns and sugar4 ,sprinkle over the flour and mix well together4 ,cut up the tomatoes and put them in1 then pour over the boiling stock and stir until it boils4 ,simmer slowly for an hour4 ,rub through a sieve1 return to the saucepan and make thoroughly hot1 pour into a warm tureen1 and serve with fried bread4 ,,jersey ,,soup 99 #b quarts ,white ,stock--#f;d4 99 99 #a pint ,milk--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,sage 99 99 #a ,leek 99 99 #a ,fagot of ,herbs 99 99 #a doz4 ,white ,peppercorn 99 99 ,salt--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aj;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,put the stock into a stewpan2 slice in the leek and add the fagot of herbs and the peppercorns4 ,boil them together for half an hour1 strain out the vegetables and return to the saucepan2 stir in the sage and continue stirring until it is clear and the soup is thick2 pour in the boiling milk1 boil up and pour into a tureen4 ,sprinkle finely chopped parsley on the top before serving4 ,,scotch ,,broth 99 #b quarts of the ,liquor in which ,mutton has been cooked 99 99 ,salt 99 99 #a oz4 ,rice 99 99 #a ,carrot 99 99 #a_/b ,turnip1 and ,stalk of ,celery 99 99 ,total ,cost--#a #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,carefully remove all the fat from the liquor2 put it into a saucepan4 ,wash the rice and cut all the vegetables into dice2 stir them in1 and simmer by the side of the fire for an hour4 ,it must be cooked very slowly and without the lid4 ,add salt to taste1 and pour it into a tureen4 ,pearl barley may be used instead of rice4 ,,lentil ,,soup 99 #a lb4 ,split ,lentils--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #c ,onions and #b doz4 ,peppercorns 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,sugar 99 99 #c quarts ,water 99 99 ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d d4 99 99 ,time--,four ,hours4 99 ,wash the lentils well in two or three waters and put them into a saucepan with the onions1 peppercorns1 sugar1 salt1 and half the butter1 and sweat them for five minutes4 ,pour over the boiling water and boil steadily for four hours4 ,if the soup gets too thick1 pour in a little more water or stock4 ,rub through a sieve and return to the saucepan2 stir in the butter1 salt1 and pepper to taste4 ,boil up and serve4 ,lentil soup is one of the most nourishing of all soups1 and particularly nice during the winter months4 ,,pea ,,soup 99 #a lb4 ,split ,peas--#c;d4 99 99 #b ,onions and #a_/d ,head of ,celery--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter or ,dripping--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,carrots 99 99 #b doz4 ,peppercorns 99 99 #c quarts ,water--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f;d4 99 99 ,time--,four ,hours4 99 ,wash the peas well in cold water1 and put them into a saucepan with the vegetables sliced up1 the peppercorns and the water4 ,bring to the boil and boil steadily for four hours1 then rub through a sieve and return to the saucepan4 ,season well with salt1 and stir in #a oz butter or dripping4 ,bring to the boil and pour into a warm tureen4 ,send some dried mint and fried bread to table with it4 ,this is a very nourishing soup1 particularly if it is made with stock instead of water2 it is very suitable for the cold season4 ,,vegetable ,,marrow ,,and ,,tomato ,,soup 99 #a doz4 ,tomatoes--#c;d4 99 99 #a ,vegetable ,marrow--#b;d4 99 99 #i ,onions 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #b doz4 ,peppercorns 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,sugar 99 99 #c pints ,stock 99 99 ,salt--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,peel the vegetable marrow1 slice it up1 and take out the seeds2 slice up the tomatoes and put them1 with the marrow1 into the saucepan with the butter1 sugar1 salt1 and peppercorns2 sweat them for five minutes4 ,pour over the boiling water or stock1 and simmer for one hour4 ,rub through a sieve and return to the saucepan4 ,add more salt1 if necessary1 bring it to the boil1 pour into a tureen1 and serve4 ,,kidney ,,soup 99 #a ,ox ,kidney--#d;d4 99 99 #b ,onions--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,cornflour--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,salt1 ,lemon ,juice1 and parsley 99 99 #b quarts ,stock--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,slice up the onions and fry them in the butter1 strain them out and return the butter to the saucepan4 ,stir in the cornflour1 and when well mixed pour over the stock and stir until it boils4 ,slice the kidney up into small pieces1 and put it in2 simmer very gently for one hour4 ,just before serving1 season with salt and a little lemon juice2 pour into a tureen and sprinkle a little chopped parsley on top4 ,this soup must be cooked very slowly1 or the kidney will be hard and tough4 ,,egg ,,soup 99 #a quart ,white ,stock 99 99 #a pint of ,milk--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 #c ,yolks of ,eggs--#c;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,sago--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,onion--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,boil the sago1 stock1 and onion together till the sago is clear2 then take out the onion and season the soup with salt and pepper4 ,beat the yolks of the eggs in a basin1 pour over the boiling milk1 strain into the stock4 ,put over the fire and whisk till it comes to boiling point1 but do not let it boil1 or it may curdle4 ,pour into a tureen1 sprinkle with chopped parsley1 and send some fried bread to table with it4 ,,white ,,macaroni ,,soup 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,macaroni--#a;d4 99 99 #a pint ,milk--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #c pints ,bone ,stock 99 99 ,vegetables and ,flour--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,the stock made from veal or mutton bones is the best for this soup1 as it must be white4 ,nothing is nicer than the liquor in which a piece of veal has been stewed4 ,if plenty of vegetables have been boiled in it none need be added when the soup is made4 ,if not1 boil an onion or leek1 a slice of turnip1 and a small piece of celery stalk in the stock for twenty minuets1 and strain them out4 ,put the butter into a stewpan1 and when it is melted stir in a tablespoonful of cornflour1 pour over the milk and stock1 and stir until it boils4 ,boil the macaroni in salt and water for twenty minutes1 strain off the water1 and cut it into pieces about #a inch long2 put these into the soup1 and simmer for ten minutes4 ,just before serving1 flavour with salt1 a dust of white pepper1 and a few drops of lemon juice4 ,,lobster ,,soup 99 #a ,lobster1 ,crayfish1 or ,tin of ,lobster--#as4 99 99 #b quarts ,fish ,stock 99 99 #a_/b pint of ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,cornflour--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,lemon ,juice1 ,salt1 and ,pepper--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #b;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,the fish stock for this soup should be well flavoured with vegetables4 ,if a crayfish be used1 remove all the white meat and boil the shells in the stock for half an hour and strain them out2 thicken with the cornflour1 pour in the milk1 and boil up4 ,cut the lobster into small pieces and put into the soup2 simmer for ten minutes4 ,flavour with lemon juice and salt1 pour into a warm tureen1 and serve with fried bread4 ,wash the shells well in cold water before putting them into the soup4 ,,fish ,,soup 99 #c pints ,fish ,stock 99 99 #a pint ,milk--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,cornflour--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,vegetables--#a;d4 99 99 ,fish--#f;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aj;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,remove all the fat from the fish stock and put it into a saucepan with six white peppercorns1 an onion1 one slice of turnip1 a fagot of herbs1 and some carrot4 ,boil this together for twenty minutes1 then strain out the vegetables and pour back into the saucepan4 ,mix a tablespoonful of cornflour smoothly with the milk and stir it in2 continue stirring till it boils4 ,skin and fillet the fish and cut it into dice1 put these pieces of fish into the soup1 and simmer for ten minutes4 ,just before serving add a few drops of lemon juice1 and salt to taste4 ,pour into a tureen and sprinkle a little chopped parsley on top4 ,,cabbage ,,soup 99 #a ,cabbage--#c;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,butter--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a pint ,milk 99 99 ,pepper1 ,salt1 and ,bread--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,wash and strain the cabbage well1 and cut it up into slices2 throw it into boiling salt and water1 and cook for five minutes2 strain all the water off and put it into a saucepan with the salt1 pepper1 and two quarts of boiling water1 and boil for one hour4 ,add the milk and let it boil up again1 toast the slice of bread and cut it up into dice4 ,put it into a warm soup tureen and pour the boiling soup over it4 ,,sydney ,,soup 99 #a_/b doz4 ,tomatoes--#b;d4 99 99 #a ,carrot 99 99 #b ,small ,onions 99 99 #ab ,peppercorns 99 99 #a fagot ,herbs 99 99 #a_/b teaspoon ,salt 99 99 #b quarts ,stock--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,cornflour and #a_/b oz4 ,tapioca--#a;d4 99 99 #a cup of ,green ,peas--#b;d4 99 99 ,curry ,powder 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful of ,sugar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#h;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,put the butter into a saucepan1 slice up the onions and carrot and fry them in it with the herbs1 peppercorns1 and a good pinch of curry powder4 ,mix the cornflour with a little stock and pour it over4 ,slice up the tomatoes and add them to the boiling stock2 stir until it boils1 and then simmer slowly for an hour4 ,rub through a sieve and return to the saucepan4 ,add the salt1 sugar1 and the tapioca2 stir until this becomes transparent and thickens the soup4 ,put in a cupful of cold boiled peas2 boil up and serve4 ,,white ,,onion ,,soup 7,,soubise ,,blanche47 99 #a pint of ,milk--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #d ,onions 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper 99 99 #a pint ,white ,bone ,stock 99 99 ,dry ,crusts--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,peel and slice up the onions and put them into a saucepan with the butter2 make them very hot1 and then cover them down and leave them to cook by the side of the fire for an hour1 but they must not get any colour4 ,break in some dry1 hard pieces of bread2 it should be crust only for this soup4 ,boil the milk and stock together1 pour it over the onions and bread1 and let it simmer very slowly1 closely covered1 for an hour2 rub through a sieve1 season with salt and pepper and a few drops of lemon juice4 ,boil up and serve with fried bread4 ,,crecy ,,soup 99 #f ,carrots--#b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,butter--#b;d4 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,sugar 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,salt 99 99 #a ,turnip 99 99 #a stalk of ,celery 99 99 #c pints of ,boiling ,water--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours4 99 ,slice up the carrots and vegetables1 put them into boiling water1 and cook for half-an-hour2 strain them out of the water1 which must be saved1 and put them into a saucepan with the butter and a few scraps of bacon1 if any are in the larder4 ,sprinkle over the sugar1 make very hot1 and cover down closely until the vegetables are very soft4 ,rub them through a sieve and pour on by degrees the water in which the vegetables were boiled2 mix well together1 return to a saucepan1 and boil slowly for an hour4 ,stir in a small piece of butter and it is ready to serve4 ,this soup should be perfectly smooth if properly made4 ,a hair sieve should be used for the vegetables1 and the soup should be cooked very slowly4 ,,lenten ,,soup 99 #f ,onions--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,butter or ,beef ,dripping 99 99 #b quarts of ,water or ,pot ,liquor 99 99 ,crusts of ,bread 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost1 with ,butter--#c #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours4 99 ,peel and slice up the onions and put them into a sauce--pan with the butter or dripping1 and brown them4 ,then let them cook1 covered over1 for an hour4 ,break in some brown dry crusts of bread4 ,pour over the boiling liquor the water in which some vegetables1 such as carrots1 turnips1 or cauliflowers1 have been boiled1 stir it well and boil for an hour2 rub through a sieve4 ,if it is not thick enough1 let it boil again without the lid for ten minutes4 ,season well with pepper and salt1 and serve4 ,,soup ,,maigre 99 #a_/b lb4 ,rice--#a;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,butter--#b;d4 99 99 #a gill ,milk--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,salt 99 99 #b ,eggs 99 99 #a ,carrot 99 99 #a ,onion--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,wash the rice well in two waters1 put into a saucepan with #b #a_/b pints of cold water and the onion and carrot whole4 ,as the rice begins to swell add some more boiling water1 until it is about the right consistency4 ,take out the onion and carrot and stir in the butter1 a small piece at a time4 ,beat the yolks of the eggs in a basin1 stir them quickly in1 and bring again to boiling point1 but do not let it boil2 season with salt1 and serve at once1 with tiny rusks of bread4 ,make these by cutting up a dry crust into small pieces1 dipping them in water1 and baking until crisp in a moderate oven4 ,,artichoke ,,soup 99 #b lbs4 ,artichokes--#c;d4 99 99 #b ,onions--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b pints ,milk--#d;d4 99 99 #b quarts ,bone ,stock 7,white7 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,vinegar 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,lemon ,juice 99 99 #a doz4 ,white ,peppercorns--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#h #a_/b d 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,quarter4 99 ,peel the artichokes and lay them in vinegar and water for an hour2 this will make them a good colour4 ,mix up half a pint of the milk with the stock1 and boil the artichokes1 onions1 and peppercorns in this for an hour4 ,rub through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon4 ,stir in the milk and some salt1 pour back into the saucepan and stir until it boils4 ,if the artichokes do not thicken the soup sufficiently1 sprinkle in a little sago or semolina when it is returned to the saucepan4 ,serve with fried bread4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,,fifty ,,recipes ,,for ,,fish4 ,the consumption of fish as a daily article of food is not nearly so large as it ought to be if we studied our health4 ,it must be admitted that it is much more expensive than meat1 and cannot be bought so readily4 ,then again1 ordinary plain cooks only know how to fry and boil it1 so that very little variety can be obtained2 and even these two methods are often so badly followed as to take away rather than tempt the appetite4 ,not one cook in a hundred knows how to boil fish properly4 ,if a little more time and attention were given to fish-cooking we should not have so many complaints1 and fish1 instead of being a neglected food1 would be a much desired one4 ,it has one or two advantages over meat4 ,it is easier of digestion1 for one thing4 ,it is therefore an invaluable food for people obliged to be indoors a great deal1 or for those engaged in literary work1 for it contains1 besides other good things1 a good proportion of phosphorus1 and this is excellent food for the brain and organs of the chest4 ,it is1 however1 with the cooking of fish that we have to deal4 ,in the first place1 be sure that it is perfectly fresh4 ,the flesh should be firm and hard2 if soft and leaving the mark of the finger if pressed1 it must be rejected4 ,it must also smell sweet2 again1 it must be thoroughly cooked4 ,it is a matter of taste whether we like well or underdone meat1 but underdone fish is the most unwholesome as it is the most repulsive food that can be offered to us1 and in no process of cooking is more judgement required than in the cooking of fish4 ,fillets of fish of all kinds1 either boiled1 steamed1 or baked1 look transparent when raw1 but are milk white when cooked sufficiently4 ,if the ,french method of frying is practised1 the large quantity of fat cooks it very quickly1 and as soon as it is brown it is done4 ,in boiling and steaming large fish so much depends upon the quantity of water or steam used4 ,never leave fish in the water after it is cooked4 ,put it on to a hot dish and cover with a cloth1 and stand over a saucepan of hot water till required2 if left in the water it soon becomes insipid and watery4 ,in all dishes of dressed fish much depends upon the sauce served with it4 ,very simple directions for making several fish sauces will be found amongst the sauce recipes1 and if these are carefully studied1 the art will be easily acquired4 ,in country districts where fish can be had for the catching1 it should form the chief item in at least one meal during the day2 and if variety in dressing it is studied1 it will not be found monotonous1 as it sometimes is if only fried and boiled4 ,the ice chest will be found invaluable for keeping fish good and sweet4 ,,fish ,,cakes 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cold ,boiled ,fish--#e;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cold ,boiled ,potatoes--#a;d4 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 ,frying ,fat 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #a tablespoonful of ,milk1 ,bread ,crumbs--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#i;d4 99 99 ,time--#e minutes4 99 ,free the fish from skin and bone and flake it up2 mash the potatoes smoothly1 mix together and season with pepper and salt4 ,put the milk and butter into a saucepan1 and when it is quite hot put in the fish and the potatoes4 ,beat up the egg1 and put half in1 and mix together till hot through2 spread on to a plate and stand away to cool4 ,add a teaspoonful each of water and oil to the egg4 ,make some bread crumbs on a sieve1 and put them on to a piece of paper4 ,shape the fish mixture into cakes about one inch high and two inches across2 brush them over with the egg1 and toss them into the crumbs4 ,shape again and fry in very hot fat1 arrange in the form of a wheel on a dish paper1 garnish with fresh or fried parsley1 and serve hot4 ,,baked ,,bream ,,and ,,egg ,,sauce 99 #a ,bream--#f;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,white ,sauce--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 ,parsley1 ,lemon ,juice--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aj;d4 99 99 ,time--#bj minutes 99 ,wash the bream1 rub some dripping on to a baking sheet1 lay on it the fish1 squeeze over a few drops of lemon juice2 cover with a piece of paper well rubbed with dripping1 and bake in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes or longer1 if the fish is large4 ,remove the skin and fins1 and put them on the dish2 pour over the white sauce1 which should be just thick enough to coat the fish4 ,chop the parsley finely1 and boil the egg hard1 cut it in half1 and either chop the yolk or rub it through a sieve1 and chop the white4 ,arrange these in alternate rows all over the fish1 and garnish with a few lemon slices4 ,,fish ,a ,,la ,,maitre ,d',,hotel 99 #b ,bream--#h;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,white ,sauce--#b #a_/a;d4 99 99 ,lemon1 ,parsley1 ,pepper and ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aa;d4 99 99 ,time--#bj minutes 99 ,fillet the fish1 wash and trim them1 roll them lightly up with the skin inside4 ,rub a baking sheet with some butter or dripping4 ,put on the rolls of fish close together4 ,squeeze over them some lemon juice1 cover with a piece of buttered paper1 and bake in the oven for twenty minutes or until they look milk white4 ,dish them carefully1 make the white sauce by recipe given1 season it with pepper1 salt1 and half a teaspoonful of lemon juice4 ,chop half a teaspoonful of parsley very finely and stir it in1 pour over the fish1 and serve4 ,,fish ,,and ,,tomato ,,sauce 99 #b ,bream--#h;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint of ,tomato ,sauce 99 99 ,salt1 ,pepper1 and ,parsley--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aa;d4 99 99 ,time--#bj minutes 99 ,fillet the bream2 cut each fillet into two pieces1 wash and trim them4 ,make some tomato sauce by recipe given4 ,butter a pie dish1 lay in the fillets1 and season them2 pour over the sauce1 and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes4 ,garnish with a little chopped parsley1 and serve in the dish in which they were cooked4 ,,oyster ,,stew 99 #a bottle ,oysters--#as4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,milk 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour--#a;d4 99 99 ,pepper1 ,salt1 and ,lemon ,juice--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #b #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes 99 ,make a sauce by directions given1 using a little of the oyster liquor mixed with the milk2 flavour with salt and pepper1 and a little nutmeg and lemon juice4 ,stir in the oysters and simmer for five minutes1 it is then ready to serve4 ,,american ,,oysters 99 #a bottle of ,oysters--#as4 99 99 #a_/b pint of ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #f ,soda ,biscuits 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a #a_/b;d 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #b #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes 99 ,put the milk and butter into a saucepan2 when it boils put in the oysters and simmer for five minutes4 ,season with pepper and salt2 break up the biscuits and throw them it4 ,boil up and pour into a deep dish1 and it is ready to serve4 ,,fish ,,and ,,butter ,,sauce 99 #c ,whiting or ,bream--#as4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley1 ,pepper and ,salt #a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as #a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,time--,three-quarters of an ,hour4 99 ,fillet the fish and cut them into strips1 wash them well in cold water and dry in a cloth2 twist them round1 and lay in a buttered soup plate1 sprinkle with white pepper and salt1 and chopped parsley4 ,put in the rest of the butter1 cover with another soup plate1 and stand over a saucepan of boiling water for three-quarters of an hour2 reserve the plates once while it is cooking1 place in a hot dish1 and pour over it the butter and parsley in which it was cooked4 ,this is a nice delicate way of cooking fish for an invalid4 ,,fish ,,patties 99 #a ,small ,bream--#d;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,anchovy ,sauce 99 99 #a gill ,milk 99 99 ,pepper1 ,salt and ,lemon ,juice 99 99 ,flaky ,pastry--#f #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aa #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#bj minutes 99 ,bake the fish in the oven1 unless there is cold fish in the larder1 which will do just as well2 take away the skin and bone1 and flake it up4 ,make a sauce of the butter1 flour1 and milk2 season with anchovy1 pepper1 salt1 and lemon juice2 stir in the fish and mix well4 ,line some small patty pans with flaky pastry1 put a spoonful of the mixture in the centre1 cover with a round of pastry1 press the edges together1 and trim into a neat shape2 make a small hole in the centre with a skewer1 brush over with egg or milk1 put into a quick oven1 and bake for about twenty minutes4 ,dish on a fancy paper1 and garnish each patty with a tiny sprig of parsley4 ,,fish1 ,,to ,,fry ,fish requires careful preparation for successful frying2 it may be filleted or fried whole1 but in either case it must be well washed in cold water1 but not soaked2 dry in a cloth4 ,mix on a plate a spoonful of flour1 pepper1 and salt4 ,beat on another plate an egg1 with a spoonful each of water and oil1 and have plenty of dry fine crumbs on a sheet of paper2 when these things are all ready1 dip the fish in the flour and dust off again2 put at once into the egg and cover well2 then drop into the crumbs1 shake them all over it2 next toss in the hands to shake all the loose crumbs off2 lay on a plate separately1 and either fry at once or leave in a cool place for an hour or two4 ,plunge into plenty of hot fat and fry till crisp and brown2 drain for a few minutes on kitchen paper2 pile on a dish1 and garnish with either fresh or fried parsley4 ,,curried ,,fish 99 #c ,bream--#as4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,curry ,sauce--#c;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,rice--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as #d;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,make the curry sauce by recipe given elsewhere4 ,fillet the fish and cut each fillet in two pieces1 butter a saucepan and lay in the fish2 pour over the sauce1 bring it up to the boil1 and cook on the stove very slowly for an hour4 ,just before serving1 season with salt and lemon juice to taste4 ,boil the rice and dry thoroughly2 press into little cups or moulds4 ,dish the fish carefully and pour the sauce over it2 garnish with the moulds of rice4 ,,scalloped ,,fish 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cold ,fish 99 99 #b oz4 ,bread ,crumbs--#d;d4 99 99 #a gill ,cold ,fish ,sauce1 ,pepper1 and ,salt--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 99 ,time--#bj minutes4 99 ,flake up the fish1 butter a small dish1 and sprinkle well with bread crumbs2 put in a layer of fish1 a little sauce and seasoning1 and some bread crumbs4 ,continue this in layers until all the fish is used up4 ,put plenty of crumbs on top and the rest of the butter in small pieces4 ,bake in a moderate oven for #bj minutes4 ,garnish with a sprig of parsley1 and serve4 ,,fish ,,pudding 99 #a_/b lb4 ,blue ,cod--#e;d4 99 99 #a lb4 ,potatoes--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,egg 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#h;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,use cold fish and potatoes1 if there are any in the larder2 if not1 boil a piece of blue smoked cod in some water for five minutes4 ,flake it up free from skin and bone and put it into a basin2 mash up the potatoes and mix them in with the pepper and salt4 ,bind into a paste with an egg2 rub some dripping on a baking sheet1 turn the mixture on to it and shape into the letter ,s1 brush over with egg or milk1 and bake till brown4 ,slip it off on to a hot dish1 and garnish with parsley4 ,,fish ,,pie 99 #b or #c ,bream--#as4 99 99 #a gill ,milk or ,melted ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,short ,pastry1 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 ,parsley--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #d;d4 99 99 ,time--,three-quarters of an ,hour4 99 ,cold fish will do very well for this dish4 ,if fresh is used1 fillet it and cut into small pieces2 if cooked1 flake up into small pieces4 ,lay in a buttered pie-dish1 season with pepper1 salt1 and chopped parsley2 pour over the sauce and cover with a short pastry made with #a_/b lb flour and #a_/d lb dripping4 ,brush over with egg or milk1 and bake for three-quarters of an hour2 garnish with parsley1 and serve4 ,,fish ,,in ,,batter 99 #b ,mullet--#h;d4 99 99 ,frying ,batter 99 99 ,hot ,fat--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aj;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,fillet the mullet and cut into small pieces2 dip in flour seasoned with salt and pepper4 ,cover with ,french frying batter1 the recipe for which is given elsewhere4 ,plunge into plenty of hot fat and fry until a good colour2 drain for a few minutes on kitchen paper4 ,pile high on a dish1 garnish with parsley1 and serve hot4 ,,fish ,,au ,,gratin 99 #a ,sole--#i;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful of ,parsley 99 99 #d teaspoonful ,bread ,crumbs--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b ,small ,onion 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a gill ,good ,gravy 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,fat ,bacon--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aa;d4 99 99 ,time--#bj minutes4 99 ,mince the onion1 parsley1 and bacon very finely1 and put them into a basin with the seasoning and crumbs1 and mix thoroughly4 ,butter a dish in which the fish can be both cooked and served4 ,spread half the seasoning on it1 wash and dry the fish and lay it on this bed of seasoning2 spread the rest of the seasoning on the top1 pour over gently the gravy4 ,cover with a few raspings and put the butter on in tiny pieces4 ,put it into a quick oven and bake from #ae to #bj minutes1 according to the thickness of the fish4 ,pin a paper collar round the dish1 and serve at once4 ,,fish ,,hash 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cold ,boiled ,fish--#d;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cold ,boiled ,potatoes 99 99 #a_/d of an ,onion--#a;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,fat ,bacon--#a;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a gill ,milk or ,gravy 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes 99 ,flake up the fish free from skin and bone1 mash the potatoes and mix them together2 season with half the parsley1 pepper and salt4 ,mince the bacon and onion very finely2 put them into a frying pan with the butter and fry for a few minutes4 ,stir in the fish and potatoes and turn about until thoroughly hot through4 ,pour over the gravy or milk and again make thoroughly hot4 ,heap on to a dish1 and garnish with the rest of the parsley4 ,serve very hot4 ,,fish ,,balls 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cold ,fish--#d;d4 99 99 #a gill ,thick ,sauce--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,anchovy--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,melted ,butter--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,fat ,bacon 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,egg and ,pepper and ,salt--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aj;d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes 99 ,chop the fish1 bacon1 and parsley finely1 and mix them together with the seasoning4 ,make a thick sauce with #a gill water1 #a oz flour1 and #a oz butter2 flavour with anchovy and stir the fish in4 ,simmer for a few minutes1 stir in the yolk of the egg1 and turn on to a plate to cool4 ,make up into small balls1 fill a frying pan with boiling water1 put in the balls4 ,cover over and simmer gently for ten minutes4 ,dish the balls in a circle and pour over the melted butter1 which has been nicely flavoured with anchovy2 garnish with parsley1 and serve4 ,,fish ,a ,,la ,,creme 99 #d ,whiting or ,schnapper--#as4 99 99 #a gill ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour1 and ,lemon ,juice 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #b;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,fillet the fish1 wash the bones1 and put them into half a pint of white stock1 and boil them for half an hour4 ,strain out and mix with #a gill of milk4 ,wash the fillets and roll them up1 stand them in a stewpan and cook them in this liquor1 covering them with a piece of buttered paper2 they will take about #bj minutes4 ,dish them carefully1 strain the liquor1 and make a sauce of it with the butter and flour by directions given4 ,season and flavour this and pour it over the fillets2 garnish with chopped parsley and red bread crumbs1 and serve hot4 ,,fillets ,,of ,,fish ,,and ,,cheese ,,sauce4 99 #c ,mullet or ,bream--#as4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,cheese ,sauce--#d;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,dry ,cheese 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 ,lemon ,juice 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #ea_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#be ,minutes4 99 ,fillet the fish1 wash and dry them2 put them on to a baking sheet1 sprinkle with lemon juice4 ,put a few little pieces of butter over them2 cover with buttered paper and bake from #bj minutes to half an hour1 according to the thickness of the fillets4 ,place them carefully on the dish in which they are to be served1 pour over them the cheese sauce nicely flavoured with pepper1 salt1 and parsley4 ,sprinkle over them some dry cheese1 brown in front of the fire1 or under the grill if using a gas stove1 and serve hot4 ,,collared ,,eels 99 #b ,eels--#as4 #e;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,gelatine--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a fagot of ,herbs 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a ,carrot 99 99 #a spoonful ,vinegar 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #ha_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,half 99 ,clean the eels1 cut them into pieces #b inches long2 put them in cold water well seasoned with salt1 #b dozen peppercorns and the vegetables1 and a spoonful of vinegar4 ,bring to the boil1 and skim well2 then boil steadily for an hour1 or longer if the eels are large4 ,take out the fish1 slip out the bones1 and cut the meat into small pieces4 ,put back the bones and boil the liquor quickly without the lid for half an hour1 then strain off4 ,dissolve the gelatine in a little cold water or gravy and stir in4 ,if a very special dish is desired1 the liquor can be clarified with the white of an egg in the same way as jelly4 ,rinse a mould in cold water1 arrange in it the pieces of eel and a hard boiled egg cut into slices with a few sprigs of parsley4 ,strain the liquor over and stand away till cold4 ,turn out and serve with a salad4 ,,stuffed ,,flathead 99 #a ,flathead--#i;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,forcemeat--#b;d4 99 99 #a gill ,gravy 99 99 #a oz4 ,dripping--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,take a little veal forcemeat and season nicely4 ,sew this into the flathead and truss it into the shape of the letter ,s4 ,rub some dripping on to a baking sheet1 which should only be just large enough to take the fish4 ,put some dripping on the top1 and bake in a moderate oven for half-an-hour1 or longer if large4 ,slip it on to a hot dish1 draw out the trussing string carefully1 flavour and boil up the gravy and pour round it4 ,serve very hot4 ,,oysters ,,and ,,bacon 99 #a doz4 ,large ,oysters--#f;d4 99 99 #c ,rashers ,bacon 99 99 ,pepper1 ,salt and ,lime ,juice--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#i;d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes4 99 ,mix some pepper1 salt1 and lemon juice together1 and lay oysters in this4 ,the bacon should be cut very thin1 and then into strips about #a inch broad and #c inches long4 ,roll these up1 and thread on a skewer first a roll of bacon and then an oyster1 until the skewer is full2 lay on a baking sheet and cook in the oven for about ten minutes4 ,have ready a hot dish1 slip the bacon and oysters off the skewers on to this1 and serve hot4 ,,scalloped ,,oysters 99 #a bottle ,oysters--#as4 99 99 #c oz4 ,bread ,crumbs--#a;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,butter 99 99 ,lemon ,juice1 ,pepper and ,salt--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#a s4 #c d4 99 99 ,time--#bj ,minutes 99 ,strain the liquor from the oysters1 boil it up and pour over them1 cover down for five minutes1 and strain off again4 ,melt the butter1 season with lemon juice1 pepper1 and salt4 ,butter a dish1 put in a layer of crumbs1 then one of oysters2 moisten with the butter1 then more crumbs1 and continue in layers till the dish is full4 ,pour over all the rest of the butter1 and bake for a quarter of an hour4 ,serve at once4 ,,to ,,cook ,,dried ,,fish ,put it into hot water1 and boil gently for five minutes or longer if the fish is very thick4 ,take it out of water and put it on to a hot dish1 rub a small piece of cold butter over it and cook for a few minutes either in the oven or in front of the fire4 ,one or two soft boiled eggs broken over it is a nice way of serving it1 or a few very thin slices of bacon well cooked may be placed round the dish as a garnish4 ,,fried ,,crayfish 99 #a ,crayfish--#as4 99 99 ,french ,frying ,batter--#b;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,anchovy 99 99 ,frying ,fat--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#c ,minutes 99 ,pick all the white meat from a crayfish1 and cut it into pieces about two inches long and one inch broad4 ,make a frying batter by recipe given elsewhere1 and season with anchovy1 lemon juice1 pepper1 and salt4 ,dip the pieces of crayfish into this and plunge into plenty of very hot fat2 fry a good colour1 drain on kitchen paper for a few minutes1 pile high on a dish1 and garnish with fried parsley4 ,,bream ,,pudding 99 #b ,bream--#h;d4 99 99 #a gill ,melted ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,suet--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,parsley 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,flour--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aa d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,half4 99 ,skin and fillet the fish and cut into small pieces2 make a dry crust of the suet1 and flour and line a pudding basin with it4 ,lay the fish in lightly1 and season with the parsley1 pepper1 and salt4 ,pour over the melted butter2 this should be made with #a_/b oz butter1 #a_/b oz flour1 and #a gill of water4 ,cover the top of the pudding with crust1 tie down securely with a cloth and string1 and plunge into plenty of boiling water4 ,boil for one hour and a half1 turn out of the basin1 and sprinkle with chopped parsley4 ,serve hot4 ,,fish ,,rissoles 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cold ,fish--#d;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a gill ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 ,bread ,crumbs 99 99 ,hot ,fat 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a teaspoonful of ,anchovy 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful of ,parsley 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#h;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes 99 ,pick the fish free from skin and bone1 and chop it up4 ,make a smooth thick sauce with the flour1 butter1 and water1 by directions given elsewhere4 ,flavour it with anchovy1 parsley1 pepper1 and salt2 stir in the fish1 and mix well4 ,turn on to a plate till cold4 ,make up into small balls1 cover with egg and bread crumbs1 and fry in hot fat2 drain for a few minutes on kitchen paper1 arrange carefully on a dish1 and garnish with parsley4 ,,fish ,a ,,la ,,saumarez 99 #b ,bream--#as4 99 99 #b ,tomatoes--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a fagot of ,herbs 99 99 #a ,carrot 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a doz4 ,peppercorns 99 99 ,lemon ,juice--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #c;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,fillet the fish1 put the bones in a saucepan1 and just cover them with water4 ,when they boil1 skim well1 and add the tomatoes sliced up1 the peppercorns and vegetables2 boil quickly without the lid for half an hour1 then strain1 rubbing the pulp of the tomatoes through with the liquor4 ,make a smooth sauce with half a pint of this liquor1 the butter1 and the flour2 if the colour is not good add a few drops of cochineal4 ,fold the fillets of fish neatly1 and bake in the oven with a little lemon juice1 and covered with a buttered paper4 ,arrange them on a dish and pour the sauce over4 ,serve hot4 ,,kedgeree4 99 #a_/b lb4 ,gold ,fish--#d;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,boiled ,rice--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,hard ,boiled ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#h;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes 99 ,flake up the fish and mix it with the rice2 shell the eggs and cut them in half1 put the yolks on one side4 ,chop the whites and mix them with the rice and fish2 season nicely and put into a saucepan with the butter1 and stir until thoroughly hot4 ,pile on a dish1 and either chop the yolks and sprinkle them over1 or hold a sieve over the kedgeree and rub them lightly through4 ,serve hot4 ,,fish ,,baked ,,in ,,vinegar 99 #b ,mullet--#f;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,vinegar--#b;d4 99 99 #a gill ,water 99 99 #a fagot of ,herbs 99 99 #a doz4 ,peppercorns 99 99 ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ha_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,wash the fish1 dry them on a cloth1 and rub them with a little salt4 ,lay them in a deep dish1 put in the herbs and peppercorns1 pour over the vinegar and water4 ,cover with a tin1 and stand in a cool oven1 and bake very slowly for an hour4 ,take them out and let them get quite cold in the vinegar1 then lay them in a dish1 and strain the sauce over4 ,garnish with sprigs of parsley4 ,,stuffed ,,conger ,,eel4 99 #a ,eel--#as4 99 99 #c oz4 ,veal ,seasoning--#b;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #ca_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,make the veal seasoning by recipe given elsewhere2 sew it into the eel and put it into a deep dish4 ,just cover it with water1 and bake it in a good oven for about one hour4 ,take it up and keep hot1 strain the liquor in which it has been cooked2 take about one pint and make into a brown sauce with the butter and flour4 ,colour it with a few drops of caramel1 let it boil for a few minutes1 season with salt1 pepper1 and lemon juice2 pour over the fish1 and serve very hot4 ,,eel ,,and ,,tomato ,,sauce4 99 #a ,eel--#as4 99 99 #f ,tomatoes--#b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,veal ,seasoning--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#a s4 #e;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,stuff and cook the eel as in the preceding recipe1 and strain off the liquor4 ,rub the tomatoes through a sieve2 mix with half a pint of the liquor in which the fish was cooked4 ,make a sauce of this of this with butte and flour1 season with pepper and salt1 and pour it over the fish4 ,garnish with parsley1 and serve4 ,,fried ,,roes 99 #c ,roes--#f;d4 99 99 ,frying ,batter 99 99 ,hot ,fat 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d 99 99 ,time--#ce ,minutes 99 ,put the roes on in cold water and boil for about half an hour4 ,take them up and let them get quite cold1 then cut into slices4 ,make some frying batter by recipe given elsewhere4 ,season it with salt and pepper1 dip in the slices1 and fry a good colour4 ,pile high on a dish and garnish with fried parsley4 ,roes may also be fried in egg and bread crumbs2 they are prepared just in the same way1 only covered with egg and crumbs instead of batter4 ,,cods' ,,roes ,,in ,,tomato ,,sauce 99 #b ,roes--#d;d4 99 99 #a gill ,tomato ,sauce--#b;d4 99 99 ,cayenne 99 99 #c slices ,toast 99 99 #a ,egg 99 99 ,nutmeg and ,salt--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#h;d4 99 99 ,time--#dj ,minutes4 99 ,cods' roes are the best for this dish1 but any roes will do4 ,wash them well1 cover with cold water seasoned with salt1 and boil for half an hour1 or longer if the roes are large4 ,take them up and stand away till cold1 then cut into slices about half an inch thick4 ,make some tomato sauce by recipe given elsewhere2 when it is boiling1 season with cayenne1 nutmeg1 and salt2 stir in the yolk of an egg1 lay in the slices of roe1 cover down until hot through4 ,cut the toast into as many pieces as there are slices of roe1 stand them in a dish1 and put on each some roe4 ,make the sauce very hot1 pour it over1 and serve at once4 ,,mullet ,,and ,,tomatoes 99 #b ,mullet--#h;d4 99 99 #f ,tomatoes 99 99 ,bread ,crumbs 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aa;d4 99 99 ,time--#cj ,minutes 99 ,fillet and slice up the mullet1 season each slice with parsley1 pepper1 and salt4 ,dip the tomatoes in boiling water1 skim and slice them up4 ,butter a pie-dish1 lay in the slices of fish and tomatoes alternately4 ,cover the top with bread crumbs and little pieces of butter4 ,cover the buttered paper and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour2 take off the paper1 and serve hot4 ,,american ,,fish 99 #a ,flathead--#as4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,brown ,sauce--#a;d4 99 99 #c oz4 ,fish ,forcemeat 99 99 #a oz4 ,dripping--#d;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #e;d4 99 99 ,time--#cj ,minutes4 99 ,make a forcemeat and sew it into the fish4 ,rub some dripping over a baking sheet1 truss the fish into shape1 and lay it on4 ,rub the rest of the dripping on to a piece of paper1 cover the fish carefully1 bake in rather a hot oven for half an hour or longer1 according to size2 take of the paper1 dish it1 and pour round a nice brown sauce4 ,a fish forcemeat is made with #b oz cold fish1 #a oz suet1 #a oz bread crumbs well mixed together1 with some seasoning and an egg4 ,,cold ,,fish ,,au ,,gratin ,any scraps of cold fish may be served in this way4 ,if any fish sauce is left1 nothing is nicer to warm it in2 if not1 make a little with #a gill of milk or water1 #a oz of butter1 and #a oz of flour4 ,flake the fish up1 butter a plate1 put the fish in and pour the sauce over4 ,sprinkle with brown bread crumbs1 and bake in the oven for a quarter of an hour4 ,,small ,,fish ,any kind of small fish will do for this dish4 ,wash and dry them2 well butter a sheet of stiff writing paper1 lay the fish in1 sprinkle them with a little very finely chopped onion or shallot1 parsley1 pepper1 and salt4 ,squeeze over a few drops of lemon juice1 and put a few little pieces of butter about them2 wrap them up in the paper and bake for twenty minutes4 ,serve in the paper in which they were cooked4 ,,baked ,,fish 99 #d ,mullet or ,jew-fish--#as4 99 99 #b oz4 ,bread ,crumbs--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,sweet ,herbs 99 99 #a_/b lemon 99 99 #b oz4 ,suet--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#a s4 #d d4 99 99 ,time--#cj ,minutes4 99 ,split open the fish and remove the head and backbone1 wash well in cold water and dry in a cloth4 ,chop the parsley1 herbs1 and suet1 and mix these together2 add half the crumbs1 the rind of half a lemon1 and pepper and salt4 ,butter a baking tin1 lay on a fish skin downwards4 ,on this place a layer of seasoning1 a little lemon juice1 and a few pieces of butter2 on this another fish with the cut part next the seasoning4 ,do the rest in the same way1 piling one on top of another2 over all put the rest of the crumbs and butter1 bake in a moderate oven for half an hour4 ,slip into a hot dish1 and serve4 ,,codfish ,,and ,,potatoes--,,bouillabaisse ,,of ,,cod4 99 #b lbs4 ,murray ,cod--#as4 99 99 #a lb4 ,potatoes--#a;d4 99 99 ,slices of ,roll 99 99 #a quart ,water 99 99 #a fagot of ,herbs 99 99 #b ,leeks or #a ,onion 99 99 ,pinch of ,saffron 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,butter--#c #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #da_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,put the butter into a saucepan1 and when it is hot add the leeks or onion chopped small1 and let them get a good colour without burning2 then add a quart of water1 the fagot of herbs1 the saffron tied in a piece of muslin1 and the potatoes peeled4 ,bring up to the boil1 and when they are nearly cooked cut the cod into slices and lay it in4 ,cook slowly for twenty minutes1 take up the fish1 and put it in a hot dish and lay the potatoes round4 ,season and flavour the liquor1 and boil up4 ,cut the bread into slices1 put it into a hot dish1 and strain the liquor over2 serve with the fish4 ,,buttered ,,whiting 99 #c ,whiting--#as4 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a ,lemon--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #b;d4 99 99 ,time--#bj ,minutes 99 ,wash the whiting1 dry them in a cloth1 mix a little flour1 pepper1 and salt together1 cover the fish thoroughly with this4 ,butter a thin dish1 lay the whiting in and put the rest of the butter over them in small pieces1 and put them into a hot oven2 baste constantly with the butter4 ,this must not be allowed to get black2 it should be brown4 ,when the whiting are done1 which will be in from fifteen to twenty minutes1 according to the thickness of the fish1 place them in a hot dish and pour the butter in which they have been cooked over them4 ,,broiled ,,fish 99 #b ,mullet--#h;d4 99 99 #b teaspoonful ,oil 99 99 ,pepper 99 99 ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ha_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes4 99 ,split the mullet open and wash away the black substance from the bones1 dry on a cloth1 rub with oil and sprinkle them with pepper and salt1 and leave them in a cool place for an hour4 ,rub a gridiron with a piece of suet1 and when it is quite hot put on the fish and broil it carefully1 turning it two or three times whilst cooking4 ,lay on a hot dish and rub over with a little butter4 ,to broil successfully a very clear fire is required1 and it should be made up some time before it is wanted4 ,broiling on a gas-stove is equivalent to broiling over a fire4 ,,boiled ,,fish ,to boil fish properly it must never really boil2 and in this lies the secret of success4 ,if it boils it has a watery1 insipid flavour1 and drops of pieces very often when it is taken out of the water4 ,the water must boil well before the fish is put in1 and be seasoned with salt and a teaspoonful of vinegar or lemon juice2 lay the fish carefully in1 and bring the water to the boil again4 ,then draw it away from the fire1 cover down closely1 and keep it just below the boil4 ,the time it takes to cook depends so much on the size and thickness of the fish that no hard and fast rule can be given2 about ten minutes to every lb41 will be sufficient4 ,it is always done when it begins to leave the bone4 ,take it out of the water directly it is cooked1 and if it is not wanted just at the time1 cover it with a cloth and keep it hot4 ,any kind of fish sauce can be served with it1 such as plain melted butter1 parsley1 or egg sauce4 ,,salt ,,fish ,to cook salt fish it should be soaked in cold water for twelve hours1 then well washed in fresh water1 scraped and cleaned4 ,lay it in a fish-kettle1 cover with cold water1 then simmer very gently indeed for one hour and a half1 according to the thickness of the fish4 ,it should be dished on a serviette1 and garnished with sprigs of parsley and slices of lemon4 ,send it to table with boiled parsnips and egg sauce4 ,,devilled ,,sardines 99 #a tin ,sardines--#f;d4 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,mustard--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,buttered ,toast 99 99 ,cayenne--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ga_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes 99 ,make the mustard with vinegar instead of water1 and stir into it some cayenne and salt4 ,rub the sardines over with this1 and either fry them in a little dripping or grill them4 ,cut the toast into fingers1 lay a sardine on each piece1 and serve hot4 ,sardines are also very good dipped in ,french batter and fried and served with fried parsley4 ,,fish ,a ,l',,aurore 99 #a ,jew-fish--#i;d4 99 99 #a_/b ,small ,onion 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,parsley 99 99 #a ,egg 99 99 #a_/b pint ,white ,sauce 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 99 99 ,time--#cj ,minutes4 99 ,put some dripping on a tin dish1 lay the fish in it1 and cover with a buttered paper and bake in the oven for twenty minutes4 ,take it out1 split open and take out the centre bone2 sprinkle the inside of the fish with finely chopped onion and parsley1 pepper1 and salt4 ,put back the upper fillet1 trim away some of the bones1 pour over the melted butter or white sauce1 and put back into the oven for ten minutes4 ,boil the egg hard1 remove the shell1 take out the yolk and either chop it or rub it through a sieve1 cut the white into shapes4 ,take the fish from the oven and decorate the top with the yolk and white of egg2 serve hot4 ,,fillets ,a ,,la ,,orly 99 #b ,bream--#h;d4 99 99 ,lemon ,juice 99 99 ,parsley 99 99 ,half an ,onion 99 99 #a_/b pint ,tomato ,sauce 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aa;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes 99 ,fillet the fish and lay them in a dish2 sprinkle them well with lemon juice1 pepper1 salt and parsley4 ,lay over them some slices of onion and leave them for an hour1 then fry them either in batter or flour4 ,drain them for a few moments on kitchen paper1 and serve on a dish very hot with some good thick tomato sauce in a sauce-boat4 ,,scandinavian ,,pudding 99 #b ,bream--#h;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,flour 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a_/b pint ,fish ,sauce--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #a;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,fillet the fish1 skin and chop very find2 sift the flour into a basin1 drop in the eggs1 and make into a batter with the milk4 ,season with salt and pepper1 and stir in the chopped fish4 ,butter a basin1 pour in the mixture and boil for one hour2 turn out of the basin and serve with melted butter sauce1 flavoured with anchovy1 or with any other fish-sauce that may be preferred4 ,,oysters ,,and ,,potatoes 99 #a bottle ,oysters--#as4 99 99 #d ,cold ,potatoes--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#bj ,minutes4 99 ,mash the potatoes and make them into a paste with the flour and egg1 roll out and cut into small pieces4 ,season the oysters with lemon juice1 pepper1 and salt2 put three of four into each piece of potato crust4 ,roll it up1 brush over with milk1 and bake for twenty minutes4 ,pile high on a dish1 and serve hot4 ,,stewed ,,fish 99 #b ,fish--#i;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,stock 99 99 #a blade of ,mace 99 99 #b ,cloves 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #b tablespoonful ,ketchup 99 99 #a ,onion--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 ,bread ,crumbs 99 99 #a doz4 ,peppercorns--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,quarter 99 ,fillet the fish and fry them in egg and bread crumbs2 slice and fry the onion1 lay this and the fish in a tin dish4 ,cover with stock1 put in the cloves1 peppercorns1 and mace1 cover over1 and put into a moderate oven for an hour4 ,mix the flour and ketchup together and stir it in2 put back into the oven for ten minutes4 ,dish the fish and strain the sauce over it4 ,,oysters ,,and ,,macaroni 99 #b oz4 ,macaroni--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a bottle ,oysters--#as4 99 99 #a gill ,milk or ,melted ,butter ,sauce--#a;d4 99 99 ,cayenne 99 99 ,salt 99 99 ,bread ,crumbs--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #ca_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour4 99 ,boil the macaroni in the oyster liquor or in weak stock till quite soft4 ,rub a little butter on a dish1 cut the macaroni into pieces two inches long and lay it at the bottom4 ,on this place the oysters1 and season them with cayenne1 salt1 and a little lemon juice or nutmeg4 ,pour over the milk or sauce1 cover with bread crumbs1 and brown it in a quick oven4 ,a few little pieces of butter laid on top of the crumbs make a richer dish4 ,it must be served very hot4 ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,,fifty ,,recipes ,,for ,,meat ,,dishes ,,cookery ,,of ,,meat4 ,the principal methods of cooking meat are roasting1 baking1 boiling1 stewing1 broiling1 braising1 and frying4 ,of these methods roasting and baking are conducted on the same principle--dry heat2 boiling and stewing are often spoken of as if they were the same1 but this is quite a mistake4 ,when we boil a joint we plunge it into boiling water1 and this water should cover it completely2 but when meat is stewed it must be cooked in a very small quantity of water1 and never allowed to boil4 ,water boils at #bab1 but simmering heat is #ahj1 and meat cannot be properly stewed if it is cooked quicker than this4 ,one of the great faults of ,english cooks is that they cook too quickly1 and it is particularly necessary in stewing to cook slowly1 because we want to extract and blend all the different flavours of the various substances1 which are necessary for a good and savoury stew4 ,when boiling meat for table plunge it into boiling water1 and then reduce the heat2 but when broth or soup is to be made it must be put into cold water1 so that the goodness may be drawn from it4 ,corned beef or pork should also be placed in cold water and heated gradually1 so that some of the salt is drawn out4 ,the frying-pan should be discarded from the kitchen1 at least as far as steaks and chops are concerned2 grilling or broiling is by far the best method of cooking them4 ,meat unless it is very carefully fried is tough and greasy1 yet the same piece of meat if grilled or stewed would be tender and nutritious4 ,there is often a prejudice against meat twice cooked1 but the most delicate ,,entrees that are so highly esteemed by many are only re-cooked meat4 ,it is the time and care expended on it that makes it so delicious4 ,even in plain cooking there is no reason why the homely dish of hash should not be appetizing and wholesome4 ,i trust that the following recipes1 if carefully carried out1 will prove this to be true4 ,,steak ,,and ,,kidney ,,pie 99 #b lbs4 ,steak--#e;d4 99 99 #b ,kidneys--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a lb4 ,flour 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,dripping 99 99 #a gill ,water 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ha_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,half 99 ,mix a teaspoonful of flour in a plate with some pepper and salt1 slice up the meat into pieces about three inches long by two broad1 dip each piece lightly in the flour2 skin and slice up the kidneys1 and cut the fat into small pieces4 ,roll a piece of kidney and a piece of fat alternatively in the slices of meat1 pile high in a dish1 and pour in a gill of water or stock4 ,make a short crust by directions given for short pastry1 wet the edge of the dish and line it with a strip of the paste1 wet this strip again with water and cover the dish with paste2 trim off the edge1 cut a small piece out of the centre of the pie1 and ornament it with a few leaves cut out of the paste trimmings4 ,brush over with water and bake in a moderate oven for one hour and a half4 ,as soon as the crust has acquired some colour1 cover with a piece of paper well rubbed with dripping4 ,,steak ,,and ,,kidney ,,pudding 99 #b lbs4 ,steak--#e;d4 99 99 #b ,kidneys--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a lb4 ,flour--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,suet 99 99 #a_/b pint ,water 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aj;d4 99 99 ,time--,three ,hours 99 ,make a dry crust1 by directions given elsewhere1 of the flour1 suet1 and butter4 ,rub the pudding basin well with dripping1 roll out the crust1 take two-thirds and line the basin1 well pressing the crust in4 ,slice up the meat and kidney1 season with pepper and salt1 pile lightly in the basin1 pour in half a gill of water1 wet the edge of the crust4 ,roll out the piece left1 and cover the pudding securely4 ,dip a cloth in boiling water1 put it over the top1 tie it round with string1 and pin or tie the ends of the cloth over the top4 ,plunge into plenty of boiling water1 and boil for three hours4 ,take it up1 take off the cloth1 turn it out of the basin on to a hot dish1 and serve hot4 ,,stewed ,,kidneys ,,and ,,macaroni 99 #f ,kidneys--#f;d4 99 99 #a gill ,stock 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #b oz4 ,macaroni 99 99 ,parsley1 ,pepper1 and ,salt--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ha_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#be ,minutes 99 ,put the ,macaroni into boiling water seasoned with salt1 and boil for about twenty minutes1 or until quite soft1 but not broken4 ,when it is boiling1 skin and cut the kidneys in half1 put them into a frying-pan with the butter1 and toss them over the fire for two or three minutes4 ,sprinkle with parsley1 pepper1 and salt1 pour over the stock or water4 ,bring it to the boil1 then cover down by the side of the fire for five minutes4 ,place carefully in the centre of a hot dish1 boil up the gravy and pour over4 ,arrange the macaroni round the dish as a border1 and serve hot4 ,,stewed ,,steak ,,and ,,walnuts 99 #b lbs4 ,steak--#e;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,water or ,stock 99 99 #c ,pickled ,walnuts 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,vinegar 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,cornflour 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f;d4--#a;d4 99 99 ,time--,three ,hours 99 ,cut the steak into neat pieces1 put it into hot water and bring to the boil1 then keep it below boiling point1 but simmering very gently for two hours and a half4 ,mix the cornflour with a tablespoonful of the vinegar from the walnuts and stir it in1 add salt to taste and a small pinch of pepper4 ,cut up three walnuts and put them in1 bring to simmering point again1 and cook for at least another half-hour1 then dish neatly4 ,boil up the gravy and pour over it4 ,,steak ,,and ,,macaroni 99 #b lbs4 ,steak--#e;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,macaroni--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,dripping 99 99 #a_/b pint ,stock 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a doz4 ,peppercorns 99 99 ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 99 ,time--,three ,hours 99 ,cut the steak into neat pieces1 put the butter or dripping into a saucepan and fry the steak quickly2 take it out1 shred the onion and put it in with the peppercorns1 and let it get quite brown4 ,pour over the stock and stir until it boils1 then put back the steak and let it simmer very gently for three hours4 ,while it is cooking1 boil the macaroni in weak stock or water for twenty-five minutes1 and if it is ready before it is wanted keep it in hot water4 ,when the steak is done1 dish it neatly1 flavour the gravy1 boil it up and pour over4 ,cut the macaroni into short pieces and place it round the dish as a garnish4 ,,mutton ,,chops ,,in ,,batter 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #b lbs4 ,chops--#e4 99 99 #a pint ,milk--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 #c_/d lb4 ,flour 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aj;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,quarter 99 ,break the eggs into a basin1 beat in the flour with a fork1 then add gradually the milk1 season with a little pepper and salt4 ,rub some dripping on a baking dish1 pour in the batter1 lay in the chops4 ,put into a moderate oven and bake for about one hour and a quarter4 ,serve hot4 ,,tomato ,,pie 99 #c or #d ,tomatoes--#b;d4 99 99 #a lb4 ,chops--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #d ,cold ,potatoes--#a;d4 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,milk--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,quarter 99 ,skin and slice up the tomatoes1 put a layer at the bottom of a pie-dish1 then lay in the chops4 ,season with pepper and salt1 and cover with the rest of the tomatoes2 mash up the potatoes until ver smooth4 ,warm the butter and milk and pour it over them and make into a paste4 ,cover the dish with this crust1 brush the top over with a little milk1 put into the oven and bake for about one hour and a quarter4 ,,kabobs 99 #a #a_/b lbs4 of ,steak--#d;d4 99 99 #a dessertspoonful ,curry ,powder 99 99 #a dessertspoonful ,worcester ,sauce 99 99 #a dessertspoonful ,vinegar--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,stock 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,flour 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,chutney 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,rice 99 99 ,salt--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ga_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,half 99 ,slice up the steak into pieces about three inches long and two broad4 ,mix the curry powder1 sauce1 vinegar1 flour and chutney together and spread this over the steak2 roll up and thread a small wooden skewers4 ,these skewers should be made from a very small splint of wood1 just large enough to hold one or at most two of the rolls2 lay them in a saucepan1 pour over the stock1 bring to the boil and simmer one hour and a half4 ,while they are cooking1 well wash the rice in cold water and let it soak for half an hour1 throw it into boiling water for three minutes and strain off4 ,put a pinch of saffron in some fresh water1 season with salt1 and finish cooking in this4 ,strain off and dry in the saucepan4 ,pile this on a dish and lay the kabobs over it2 boil up the gravy1 season and flavour1 and strain round the dish4 ,,scotch ,,collops 99 #a lb4 ,lean ,steak--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a gill ,stock 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,quarter of an ,onion 99 99 ,small ,sippets of ,toast--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#da_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,remove all the fat1 and cut the meat into very thin and small dice1 mince up the onion very finely4 ,mix together1 season with some pepper and salt1 and put into a saucepan with the butter4 ,stir it about for five minutes1 then pour on the stock1 bring to the boil1 and simmer for one hour4 ,arrange neatly on a hot dish1 and put the sippets of toast round4 ,,poor ,,man',s ,,dish 99 #a_/b pint ,poor ,man's ,sauce--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,slice of ,toast 99 99 ,slices of ,cold ,meat--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,make the sauce by directions given elsewhere1 pour it into a pie dish1 lay in some slices of underdone beef or mutton2 cover over and stand in the oven for a quarter of an hour4 ,cut the slice of toast into sippets1 lay them round1 and serve4 ,,breast ,,of ,,mutton ,,and ,,peas 99 #b ,breasts of ,mutton--#d;d4 99 99 #b ,onions 99 99 #a ,carrot--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 ,bread ,crumbs--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a fagot of ,herbs 99 99 #a pint ,peas 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper 99 99 ,hot ,fat 99 99 #ab ,peppercorns--#g;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #a;d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours 99 ,wipe the meat with a warm damp cloth1 and put it into a saucepan with the vegetables2 bring to the boil and stew very gently for two hours4 ,take it up and remove all the bones1 put it between two boards and stand some heavy weights on it till quite cold4 ,then cut into neat-shaped pieces1 egg and bread crumb them2 fry a good colour4 ,boil the peas by recipe given elsewhere4 ,pile the mutton on a dish and put the peas round4 ,a breast of lamb is exceedingly nice done in this way2 it may be cut off before the quarter is roasted4 ,the liquor in which the meat was cooked makes excellent soup4 ,,tripe ,,and ,,tomatoes 99 #b lbs4 ,tripe--#e;d4 99 99 #a doz4 ,tomatoes--#c;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,water or ,stock 99 99 #a oz4 ,cornflour--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#i;d 99 99 ,time--,four ,hours 99 ,cut the tripe into neat pieces1 put it on in cold water and bring to the boil2 let it boil for five minutes1 put it into cold water1 and wash and scrape it well4 ,slice up the tomatoes and rub them through a sieve2 mix them with the stock or water1 and season with pepper and salt4 ,pour this into a saucepan1 slice in the onion1 put in the tripe1 and let it boil up4 ,simmer gently for four hours1 mix the cornflour smoothly with a little water or stock1 and pour it in2 stir until it boils1 dish the tripe carefully1 season and flavour the sauce to taste1 and pour it over4 ,tripe is more easily digested than any other animal food1 and is therefore good for people suffering with dyspepsia4 ,,tripe ,,in ,,milk 99 #b lbs4 ,tripe--#e;d4 99 99 #a pint ,milk--#b;d4 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #b ,onions 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a_/b pint ,water--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ga_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,four ,hours 99 ,prepare the tripe as in the preceding recipe4 ,mix the milk and water together1 pour it into a saucepan2 lay in the tripe1 slice in the onions1 bring to the boil1 and let it simmer slowly for four hours4 ,season with pepper and salt1 thicken with the flour2 after adding the flour let it cook for fifteen minutes1 then dish the tripe carefully and pour the sauce over it4 ,,tomatoes ,,and ,,mince 99 #h ,tomatoes--#c;d4 99 99 #h pieces ,toast 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,minced ,meat 99 99 ,parsley--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes4 99 ,take any remains of cold mince or hash1 add more flavouring if necessary1 and make it hot in the saucepan4 ,wipe the tomatoes and scrape out the centre1 fill it up with the mince1 and stand in the oven for ten minutes4 ,have ready some rounds of toast about the same size as the tomatoes4 ,when the tomatoes are cooked enough1 stand them on the toast1 and serve4 ,,breakfast ,,meat 99 #a lb4 ,cold ,meat--#c;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,macaroni--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #c ,tomatoes 99 99 #a_/b gill ,stock 99 99 ,bread ,crumbs--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,mince up the meat1 or any remains of cold hash or mince will do4 ,if there is any cold macaroni it can be used2 if not1 boil some by directions given1 and slice up the tomatoes4 ,butter a dish in which it can be cooked and served4 ,place at the bottom a layer of meat1 then one of macaroni1 then one of tomatoes1 season with pepper and salt1 and continue this in layers until all the materials are used up4 ,sprinkle a few bread crumbs on the top1 put into the oven1 and bake for half an hour4 ,serve hot4 ,,rissoles 99 #b lb4 ,cold ,meat--#c;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a ,egg 99 99 ,bread ,crumbs 99 99 #a_/b pint ,stock 99 99 ,quarter of an ,onion 99 99 ,parsley 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 ,hot ,fat--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,mince up the meat and mix in some chopped parsley1 pepper and salt2 put the butter into a stewpan1 and when it is dissolved mince up the pieces of onion very finely and fry that for two minutes1 then stir in the flour4 ,pour in the gravy and stir until it boils2 mix in the meat and let it get thoroughly hot4 ,turn it out on to a plate1 spread it over1 and leave until quite cold4 ,make up into balls1 cover with egg and bread crumbs1 and fry in hot fat2 arrange in a circle and garnish with fried parsley4 ,,kidney ,,fritters 99 #f ,kidneys--#f;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,minced ,herbs--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,hot ,fat 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,onion 99 99 ,frying ,batter 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ga_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes 99 ,skin the kidneys and cut up each one into three or four slices4 ,make a frying batter by directions given elsewhere2 stir in the minced onions and herbs1 and season with pepper and salt4 ,dip the slices of kidney into this and plunge into very hot fat4 ,fry a good colour1 pile high on a dish1 garnish with fried parsley1 and serve very hot4 ,slices of cold beef or mutton are very nice done in this way4 ,,kidney ,,toast 99 #b ,kidneys--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,butter--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,slice ,toast 99 99 ,parsley 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,skin and chop the kidneys small1 put into a saucepan with the butter1 and cook for two or three minutes2 season with pepper and salt4 ,spread it on the toast1 sprinkle over some chopped parsley1 and serve4 ,,beef ,,trifles 99 #a lb4 ,cold ,roast ,beef--#c;d4 99 99 #d oz4 ,bread ,crumbs 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,onion 99 99 #a ,egg 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley or ,horse-radish--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d 99 99 ,time--,half and ,hour 99 ,mince the beef and onion very finely1 and mix it with the bread crumbs1 pepper1 and salt4 ,add either some chopped parsley or finely scraped horse-radish2 mix thoroughly4 ,moisten with an egg well beaten1 and if very dry a spoonful of gravy or milk4 ,butter some small cups or moulds1 fill them with this mixture1 and bake for about half an hour4 ,garnish with sprigs of parsley1 and serve with them some horse-radish sauce or brown gravy4 ,,hashed ,,beef ,,and ,,tomato ,,sauce 99 #a lb4 ,cold ,roast ,beef--#c;d4 99 99 #h tomatoes--#c;d4 99 99 #a fagot of ,herbs 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a gill ,gravy 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,sugar 99 99 ,toast--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#h;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,slice up the tomatoes and put them into a saucepan with the butter1 herbs1 pepper1 salt1 sugar1 and gravy4 ,stir about until it becomes quite a pulp2 then rub through a sieve1 season to taste1 and let it get quite cold4 ,cut the beef into thin slices and lay it in a saucepan1 pour over the cold sauce and let it get hot through1 very slowly4 ,arrange on a hot dish1 and garnish with fried sippets of bread or toast4 ,,stewed ,,chops 99 #a lb4 ,chops--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a gill ,gravy--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,trim some of the fat from the chops1 put the butter into a saucepan1 and when it is melted stir in the flour4 ,mix well1 and pour in the gravy2 stir until it boils1 lay in the chops1 and simmer very gently for one hour4 ,dish the chops in a circle1 boil up and season the gravy1 and pour over the stew4 ,,baked ,,chop 99 #a ,chop 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 ,total ,cost--#a;d 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,choose a nice loin chop with an undercut4 ,rub a little butter in a soup plate1 lay in the chop1 cover with another plate1 and stand in a cool oven for an hour4 ,put on a very hot plate and pour over the gravy which has run from it4 ,serve very hot4 ,,rice ,,cutlets 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cold ,meat--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,rice 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 ,bread ,crumbs 99 99 ,hot ,fat--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ca_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes 99 ,mince the meat finely2 if there is any cold rice in the larder it will do2 if not1 boil some4 ,mix the rice and meat well together1 season and flavour with a little nutmeg or lemon peel2 if the meat is very lean add #b oz fat or beef suet4 ,shape into cutlets1 egg and bread crumb them1 and fry in hot fat2 dish in a circle and garnish with fried parsley4 ,,potato ,,sausages 99 #c ,cold ,potatoes--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,cold ,meat--#a;d4 99 99 ,nutmeg1 ,pepper1 and ,salt 99 99 #a ,egg 99 99 ,bread ,crumbs 99 99 ,hot ,fat--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,mash up the potatoes1 and mince the meat2 mix together1 season nicely1 and mix into a paste with half the egg4 ,roll into sausages1 egg and bread crumb1 and fry in hot fat4 ,dish in a pyramid1 and garnish with fried parsley4 ,,brazilian ,,stew 99 #b lbs4 ,leg of ,beef--#e;d4 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a ,carrot 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,vinegar 99 99 #a doz4 ,peppercorns--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,three ,hours 99 ,cut the beef up in small pieces1 dip them in the vinegar1 and lay in a jar4 ,slice in the vegetables1 add the peppercorns1 and tie a paper over the top of the jar4 ,stand in a saucepan of boiling water for three hours2 dish up the meat1 garnish with the carrot1 strain the gravy1 season and flavour1 boil up and pour over4 ,serve hot4 ,,beef ,,olives 99 #b lbs4 ,rump ,steak--#aj;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,veal ,seasoning--#b;d4 99 99 #ab ,peppercorns 99 99 #a_/b pint ,stock 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a ,carrot--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 ,o#a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,quarter 99 ,cut up the steak into thin slices about three inches long and two broad1 shape the seasoning into small corks1 roll a piece up in each slice of steak1 thread them on a skewer and lay them in a saucepan4 ,pour in the stock1 add the peppercorns and vegetables1 bring to the boil1 simmer very gently for one hour and a half4 ,place the olives on a hot dish and draw out the skewers1 remove the fat1 boil up the gravy1 season and flavour to taste1 and pour round4 ,serve hot4 ,,macaroni ,,pudding 99 #c oz4 ,macaroni--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cold ,meat--#b;d4 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a_/b pint ,gravy 99 99 #b ,eggs 99 99 #a_/b pint ,milk 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,boil the macaroni in stock or water4 ,mince the meat finely1 and season with parsley1 pepper1 and salt4 ,rub a pudding basin or mould with butter1 put the macaroni and meat in in layers1 and season nicely4 ,beat up the eggs and milk and pour them over1 cover with buttered paper1 and steam for one hour4 ,turn out of the basin carefully1 and pour round it a little nice brown gravy or white sauce4 ,,sheep',s ,,tongues ,,in ,,tomato ,,sauce 99 #f ,tongues--#as4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,tomato ,sauce--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a doz4 ,peppercorns 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a fagot ,herbs 99 99 #a ,carrot--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #ca_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,three ,hours4 99 ,wash the tongues in cold water1 put them into a saucepan1 cover them with cold water or stock1 and bring to the boil1 then skim well4 ,either corned or fresh tongues will do for this dish4 ,if corned1 no salt is required2 but if fresh ones are used1 put in a dessertspoonful of salt4 ,put in the vegetables and peppercorns and simmer gently for two hours1 then take them up1 plunge them into cold water and remove the skin4 ,trim them off and cut in half4 ,make some tomato sauce by recipe given elsewhere4 ,the liquor in which the tongues were boiled may be used for this if it is not too salt4 ,lay the tongues in and simmer for another hour2 dish carefully1 boil up the sauce and pour over4 ,garnish with chopped parsley4 ,,brown ,,mince 99 #a lb4 ,cold ,roast ,beef--#d;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,bread ,crumbs--#a;d4 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a ,egg 99 99 #a_/b pint ,gravy 99 99 ,nutmeg--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,mince up the beef finely and mix it with the bread crumbs2 season with pepper1 salt1 nutmeg1 or parsley4 ,beat up the egg1 mix it with the gravy1 and pour over the meat and crumbs4 ,butter a basin1 sprinkle well with brown bread crumbs1 put in the mince4 ,cover over with a plate and bake for an hour1 then turn on to a hot dish and pour a little nice gravy round it4 ,,steak ,a ,,la ,,jardiniere 99 #a lbs4 ,steak--#e;d4 99 99 #a gill ,green ,peas--#b;d4 99 99 #a gill ,french ,beans--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a ,carrot 99 99 #a ,turnip 99 99 #a_/b pint ,gravy 99 99 ,salt--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ia_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,three ,hours 99 ,cut the steak into neat pieces and fry very quickly in the butter2 take it out1 put in the flour1 and when quite smooth pour on the gravy and stir until it boils4 ,put back the steak1 and simmer very gently for three hours4 ,cut the carrot and turnip up into thin strips1 and put them in when the steak has been cooking for two hours4 ,boil the peas and beans separately1 and add them to the stew five minutes before serving4 ,arrange the steak on a hot dish1 put the vegetables round1 and pour over the gravy4 ,the greater the variety of vegetables used the nicer this dish will be4 ,,kromskies 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cold ,meat--#b;d4 99 99 #b ,rashers ,fat ,bacon--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,frying ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b gill ,stock 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,parsley1 ,pepper1 and ,salt 99 99 ,hot ,fat--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#fa_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes 99 ,mince the meat finely or put it through the sausage machine1 season with parsley1 pepper1 and salt2 put the butter into a saucepan1 and when it is melted stir in the flour and the stock4 ,stir until it boils1 then add the meat and mix thoroughly4 ,turn on to a plate to cool4 ,when cold make up into pieces about the size of a cork4 ,take some very thin rashers of fat bacon and cut into strips about half an inch wide by two inches long4 ,roll the meat in this1 dip in frying batter1 and fry in very hot fat2 drain for a few minutes on kitchen paper1 pile high on a dish1 garnish with fried parsley1 and serve very hot4 ,,kottbullar 99 #b lbs4 ,fillet or ,beef--#aj;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,suet--#a;d4 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper 99 99 ,hot ,fat 99 99 #a_/b pint ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 ,nutmeg 99 99 ,soda ,biscuit 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes 99 ,mince the lean of the meat very small with about a quarter of a pound of the suet which surrounds it2 season with pepper1 salt1 and nutmeg4 ,make a little boiled custard by recipe given elsewhere1 pour it over the biscuit1 which must be made into fine crumbs1 then stir in the meat and let it get quite cold4 ,roll into small balls with a little flour4 ,put three ounces of dripping into a frying pan1 and when very hot drop in the balls and fry a good colour2 drain for a few minutes on kitchen paper1 and dish in a circle4 ,serve hot4 ,,braised ,,leg ,,of ,,mutton 99 #a ,leg of ,mutton--#as4 #c;d4 99 99 #a ,rasher of ,ham--#b;d4 99 99 #a fagot of ,herbs 99 99 #bj ,peppercorns--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,carrots 99 99 #a ,turnip 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a quart ,stock--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #ga_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,four ,hours4 99 ,put the butter into a saucepan1 and when it is dissolved put in the mutton and brown it all over2 then lay the ham and vegetables round it1 pour in the stock1 and bring it to the boil4 ,cover down closely1 and stand the saucepan in a moderate oven where it will cook slowly4 ,if the braising is being done by a coal fire the lid of the stewpan may be reversed and some hot coals placed in it2 these will want renewing f rom time to time4 ,in any case cook very slowly1 then dish the meat1 strain the gravy1 remove the fat carefully1 and boil to a sort of half glaze2 pour round the dish1 serve with ,julienne or plain vegetables4 ,,pressed ,,beef 99 #aj lbs4 ,thick ,brisket of ,beef1 ,corned or ,fresh--#as4 #f;d4 99 99 #a fagot of ,herbs 99 99 #a stalk ,celery--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #b ,carrots 99 99 #a ,turnip 99 99 #dj ,peppercorns--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #h;d4 99 99 ,time--,four ,hours 99 ,bind the beef with tapes to keep it a good shape4 ,if it is corned1 put it on in cold water2 if fresh1 in hot stock or water1 and bring to the boil1 then skim carefully and put in the vegetables and peppercorns4 ,simmer very gently indeed for four hours1 then take it up4 ,take off the tapes1 slip out the bones1 and put it into a dish2 place a piece of board on the top and some heavy weights and leave till the next day1 then turn out and serve with a salad4 ,if fresh meat is used for this dish the liquor may be used for soup1 or the bones may be put back when removed from the meat and boiled without the lid very quickly for an hour4 ,then strain off and stand away till the next day2 it should then be in a strong jelly4 ,this may be cut into blocks and put round the meat4 ,,curried ,,chops 99 #b lbs4 ,chops--#e;d4 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,curry ,powder--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,lemon ,juice 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,rice 99 99 #a_/b pint ,gravy or ,water--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a ,apple 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#i;d4 99 99 ,time--,three ,hours4 99 ,trim some of the fat away from the chops4 ,put the butter into a stewpan1 put in the chops and brown them quickly2 take out1 chop up the apple and onion1 and fry that too4 ,sprinkle with the curry powder and flour1 pour in the stock or water and stir until it boils1 then put back the chops1 bring to the boil1 and simmer very gently for three hours4 ,dish carefully1 boil up the gravy1 and if it is not thick enough boil quickly without the lid for some minutes4 ,season with salt and lemon juice and pour over the chops4 ,boil the rice by directions given elsewhere2 rinse out a small mould or cup in cold water1 press the rice into it1 and turn out4 ,serve this in a separate dish1 but send it to the table with the curry4 ,,beef ,a ,,la ,,mode 99 #f lbs4 ,leg of ,beef or ,silverside--#i;d4 99 99 #a ,calf's ,foot--#d;d4 99 99 #b ,onions 99 99 #b ,carrots 99 99 #a ,turnip--#a;d4 99 99 #a fagot of ,herbs 99 99 #dj ,peppercorns 99 99 #a blade of ,mace 99 99 #f ,cloves 99 99 ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #c;d4 99 99 ,time--,five ,hours4 99 ,have the foot well chopped up1 put it on in cold water1 bring it to the boil4 ,let it boil for five minutes1 then take it up and scrape and wash it well1 lay it in a stewpan with the beef cut into pieces4 ,cover with cold water and bring to the boil1 put in the spices tied in a piece of muslin1 and let it simmer very gently for three hours4 ,slice up the vegetables and put them in1 and continue simmering altogether for about five hours4 ,take up the foot1 take out all the bones1 and cut into pieces2 put back the meat of the foot into the saucepan1 take out the spices1 season with salt1 remove the fat1 boil up1 and serve4 ,this dish is always better for being made the day before it is wanted1 as the fat can be more easily removed4 ,,beefsteak ,,rolls 99 #a lb4 ,of ,beefsteak--#b;d4 99 99 ,bread and ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,cloves 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 ,stalk of ,celery--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,gravy 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#da_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours 99 ,take a thick steak and split it open1 cut it into strips five inches wide by three long4 ,cut some very thin bread and butter the same size seasoned with pepper and salt1 lay it on the steak and roll it up1 thread on a skewer and dust with flour4 ,put the butter into a frying-pan1 and when it is hot put in the rolls and fry them quickly2 take out and lay in a saucepan1 cut up the onion and fry in the same butter as the rolls were fried in4 ,shake in a teaspoonful of flour and pour in the gravy2 stir until it boils1 then pour over the rolls4 ,put in the celery and cloves1 and simmer very gently for two hours2 take up the rolls on a hot dish and slip off the skewers1 boil up and flavour the gravy4 ,remove the fat and pour round the meat4 ,veal or mutton is also very good prepared in this way4 ,,beefsteak ,,stuffed 99 #a #a_/b lbs4 ,of ,beefsteak--#d;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,potatoes 99 99 #b oz4 ,dripping 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,milk 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,sage--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#fa_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,boil and mash the potatoes with the butter1 milk1 and salt 7if there are any cold ones they will do as well72 lay the steak flat and spread the potatoes over it4 ,chop the onion very fine and powder the sage1 and sprinkle over the potatoes2 roll up and tie with a tape or string4 ,rub some dripping over a baking sheet1 put in the steak1 and plenty of dripping on the top4 ,put into a moderate oven and bake for an hour1 basting frequently4 ,put on to a hot dish1 take off the tapes1 and pour round it some nice gravy4 ,send mashed potatoes to table with it4 ,,fricassee ,,of ,,liver 99 ,half a ,calf's ,liver--#c;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,butter--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,carrot 99 99 ,lemon ,juice--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a pint of ,gravy 99 99 ,parsley 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,wash and slice up the liver1 and dip in the flour2 fry very lightly and quickly in the butter and lay in a saucepan4 ,slice up the carrot and fry in the same butter4 ,stir in the gravy1 boil up1 and pour over the liver2 simmer very gently for one hour1 then dish carefully4 ,season the gravy with salt1 pepper1 and lemon juice2 boil up and pour over it4 ,serve hot4 ,,stewed ,,sweetbreads 99 #a pair ,sweetbreads--#d;d4 99 99 #a pint ,gravy 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper 99 99 #a_/b ,onion--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a ,carrot--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,put the sweetbreads in cold water1 bring to the boil1 strain away the water1 scrape and clean them and remove the pieces of skin4 ,put the butter into a stewpan and flour the sweetbreads2 dry very lightly and quickly1 take them out4 ,slice up and fry the onion and carrot1 stir in the flour and gravy1 and bring to the boil4 ,lay in the sweetbreads and simmer very gently for one hour2 take them up on a hot dish1 season and flavour the gravy1 remove the fat1 boil up and pour round them4 ,serve hot4 ,sweetbreads are very nice served with tomato sauce4 ,,roulades ,,of ,,beef 99 #a_/b lb4 ,fillet of ,beef--#i;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cold ,boiled ,bacon--#d;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,dripping 99 99 #a_/b pint ,gravy 99 99 ,pepper and ,mustard 99 99 #b oz4 ,crumbs--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #c;d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes 99 ,trim away the fat from the fillet and cut it into very small thin slices1 and cut the bacon also into thin slices1 but smaller4 ,spread the side of the beef with mustard and pepper1 cover with bacon1 and roll up as lightly as possible4 ,when all are rolled beat up an egg1 mix it with a spoonful of water1 brush over the rolls2 cover them with crumbs and thread on a small skewer4 ,put the dripping into a frying-pan1 and when quite hot lay in the rolls and fry until a good colour4 ,place on a hot dish and slip out the skewers4 ,make the gravy hot1 season and flavour1 and pour boiling round the roulades4 ,should there be any brown sauce in the larder it is nicer than gravy4 ,,veal ,,shape 99 #b lbs4 ,neck of ,veal--#h;d4 99 99 #a ,lemon 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,ham or ,bacon--#b;d4 99 99 #c ,eggs 99 99 #a_/b pint ,stock--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #aa_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,three ,hours 99 ,put the meat into a saucepan with the rind of the lemon cut very thinly1 pour in the stock and simmer very gently for three hours2 if the bacon is not cooked put it in and stew it for the last half-hour1 then take up the meat and ham1 cut it off the bones1 and put these back in the saucepan and let them boil quickly without the lid4 ,boil the eggs hard and cut them in slices and arrange in a plain mould or dish1 then lay in the veal and ham1 and season with pepper and salt4 ,strain and flavour the gravy1 add the lemon juice1 and pour it over the meat4 ,set aside until quite cold1 then turn out4 ,this is a very nice breakfast or luncheon dish4 ,,swiss ,,pates 99 ,cold ,roast ,veal1 ,fowl1 or ,lamb--#f;d4 99 99 ,half a ,stale ,loaf--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,sweet ,herbs or ,parsley--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #a gill ,melted ,butter 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 ,hot ,fat--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aja_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,mince the meat very finely1 season with any forcemeat that may be left1 or else some grated lemon peel1 parsley and sweet herbs1 pepper and salt4 ,make one gill of melted butter by recipe given elsewhere1 stir in the meat and let it simmer for a few minutes2 cut some slices of bread about an inch and a half thick1 stamp them out with a round cutter about two inches across4 ,remove the centre for about half way through with a smaller cutter1 brush them over with a raw egg beaten up1 and cover them with fine crumbs4 ,fry in hot fat till a good colour1 drain away the fat from them on kitchen paper4 ,fill these with the mince1 garnish with sprigs of parsley1 and serve4 ,,devilled ,,meat 99 #a teaspoonful ,mustard 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,worcester ,sauce 99 99 #b teaspoonful ,vinegar 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,oil 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,lemon ,juice 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,curry ,powder--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,mashed ,potatoes 99 99 #a_/b gill ,gravy 99 99 ,slices of ,cold ,meat--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ca_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes 99 ,put the mustard1 made with vinegar instead of water1 into a basin2 add gradually the oil and butter1 curry powder1 sauce1 vinegar1 and lemon juice1 and mix very thoroughly1 then pour in the gravy4 ,cut some slices of underdone meat and lay them in a pie dish1 pour over the mixture1 cover with a plate1 and stand in a hot oven for ten minutes2 stir frequently4 ,serve with mashed potatoes4 ,,jugged ,,rabbits 99 #b ,rabbits--#as4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,pickled ,pork--#c;d4 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a fagot of ,herbs--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a pint ,gravy 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,red ,currant ,jelly--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #da_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours 99 ,wash and joint up the rabbits and cut the pork into slices2 lay some of the pork over the bottom of a baking jar1 and on this some joints of rabbit2 continue in layers until all the meat is in1 then put in the onion1 sliced up1 the fagot of herbs1 and a few peppercorns4 ,cover down closely1 stand in a moderate oven1 and cook for two hours4 ,take up the meat and arrange nicely on a hot dish1 strain the gravy into a saucepan1 thicken with the flour1 and when it boils stir in the jelly4 ,flavour to taste1 pour it over the rabbits1 and serve4 ,,breakfast ,,dish ,,of ,,beef 99 ,slices of ,cold ,roast ,beef 7underdone7--#d;d4 99 99 #a_/b gill ,melted ,butter ,sauce--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b gill ,gravy or ,water 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,walnut ,ketchup or ,vinegar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,red ,currant ,jelly--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,cut some thin slices of beef and lay them in a saucepan or basin1 mix the melted butter sauce1 gravy1 jelly1 and ketchup together1 and pour over them4 ,cover down closely and stand the saucepan in a larger one1 half full of boiling water1 and steam for half an hour4 ,put the meat into a dish and pour the sauce over it4 ,,soubise ,,cutlets 99 #a lbs4 ,neck ,chops--#e;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,butter--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour 99 99 #c ,onions 99 99 #a gill ,milk 99 99 ,pepper1 ,salt1 and ,lemon ,juice--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ga_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#bj ,minutes 99 ,trim off the cutlets1 lay them in a tin dish1 cover with buttered paper1 and bake in the oven from fifteen to twenty minutes1 according to thickness1 turning once while cooking4 ,peel the onions1 put them into cold water1 bring to the boil1 throw away the water4 ,put them on again in cold water and boil until rather soft1 then strain all the water away1 put in the butter1 let it get quite hot1 then cover down and finish cooking the onions in this1 but do not brown them4 ,stir in the flour and pour over the milk1 stir until it boils1 let it boil two or three minutes1 then rub through a sieve2 season with salt1 pepper1 and lemon juice4 ,dish the cutlets in a circle1 pour away some of the fat1 and rinse the tin with a spoonful of gravy4 ,pour this round the dish and put the soubise sauce in the centre4 ,serve hot4 ,,roman ,,ragout 99 #a #a_/b lbs4 ,gravy ,beef--#d;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,fat ,bacon--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,onion--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a pint ,milk 99 99 #c ,tomatoes 99 99 #a_/b pint ,gravy 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,semolina 99 99 #a oz4 ,dry ,cheese--#f;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 99 99 ,time--,three ,hours 99 ,mince the onion and bacon very fine indeed1 put them into a saucepan and fry a good brown1 then add half the gravy1 and stir until a sort of half glaze4 ,rub the tomatoes through a sieve and stir them in with the rest of the gravy1 bring to the boil4 ,cut the meat into strips and put it in with a little salt and pepper1 and simmer very gently for about three hours4 ,while it is cooking put the milk on to boil1 mix the semolina with a little cold milk1 and stir it in2 cook it until the spoon will come out quite clean1 then turn it on to a dish till cold4 ,cut it into squares and lay some in a deep dish1 sprinkle with grated cheese1 then more semolina and more cheese4 ,pour over this some of the gravy in which the meat is cooking1 and put it in the oven to get hot4 ,dish up the meat and pour the sauce over it4 ,send the two dishes to table together1 quite hot4 ,,mutton ,,or ,,ham ,,bone ,,and ,,potatoes 99 #a ,bone of ,mutton or ,ham 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a_/b pint ,water or ,stock--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a lb4 ,potatoes--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,put the butter into a saucepan1 and when it is hot put in the flour2 mix together smoothly1 pour in the water of stock1 and stir until it boils4 ,joint up a mutton or ham bone and lay it in2 if it is mutton1 add a little salt4 ,bring it to the boil1 put in the onion whole stuck with two cloves1 and simmer for half an hour or longer2 then peel the potatoes1 cut them in half and put them in1 and cook until they are soft4 ,take out the bones and place on a dish1 put the potatoes round1 and pour the sauce over4 ,this is a very homely dish1 but a very savoury and economical one4 ,a little meat goes a long way1 and it is nourishing1 too1 as all the goodness of the bone and potatoes is in the stew4 ,,veal ,,in ,,white ,,sauce 99 #b lbs4 ,neck of ,veal--#aj;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,butter--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #c_/d pint ,milk--#b;d4 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a fagot of ,herbs 99 99 #a dozen ,peppercorns 99 99 ,lemon ,juice--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #ca_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,half4 99 ,put the butter into a saucepan1 and when it is melted stir in the flour and cook well1 but do not brown4 ,boil the onion1 herbs1 and peppercorns in the milk1 strain them out1 pour the milk over the butter and flour1 and stir till it boils4 ,cut the meat into cutlets1 lay them in and simmer very gently till the meat is tender1 then take it up and arrange nicely on a dish4 ,beat up an egg with a drop or two of lemon juice and a spoonful of gravy or milk4 ,pour into the sauce in which the meat was cooked1 and stir briskly over the fire until it thickens2 strain over the meat1 and serve4 ,a few very small fat rashers of bacon rolled up and fried are a great improvement to this dish4 ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,,fifty ,,recipes ,,for ,,vegetables ,,tomatoes ,,stuffed 99 #f ,tomatoes--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,veal ,forcemeat--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,cheese--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #f pieces ,fried ,bread--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f;d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes 99 ,choose tomatoes of a good colour1 and all about the same size2 scoop out the centre4 ,grate up the cheese and mix it with the forcemeat1 put this into the tomatoes2 place on a buttered tin1 and bake in the oven for ten minutes4 ,put each tomato on to a round of fried bread1 and serve4 ,,potatoes ,,in ,,white ,,sauce 99 #a lb4 ,potatoes--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,white ,sauce 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,peel and slice the potatoes1 put them in water seasoned with salt1 and boil for five minutes2 strain off the water1 make some white sauce by directions given elsewhere4 ,lay in the potatoes and simmer gently till they are soft1 but not broken2 place them on a hot dish and pour the sauce over4 ,,to ,,boil ,,potatoes ,to boil potatoes properly much care and judgement are required4 ,they should be peeled thinly1 and well washed in cold water1 but not soaked2 put them into a saucepan and kept for this vegetable only4 ,just cover them with cold water seasoned with salt1 and bring to a boil4 ,then simmer very gently for about twenty minutes2 test them with a fork1 and if soft1 strain off the water and toss them in a saucepan over the fire until they are dry4 ,some potatoes will not bear boiling as long as this1 but begin to break soon after they boil up4 ,when this is the case1 pour off nearly all the water1 leaving only one inch at the bottom of the saucepan4 ,cook the potatoes slowly in this and then strain off and dry4 ,potatoes that are very troublesome to boil often steam well2 they must be allowed from an hour to one hour and a half1 according to the quantity of water over which they are cooking4 ,,to ,,boil ,,new ,,potatoes ,new potatoes may be either scraped while raw1 or peeled after boiling2 they are a better flavour if cooked in their skins4 ,in either case they should be well washed in cold water1 plunged into boiling water seasoned with salt and a sprig of mint1 and boiled quickly until a fork will go through easily2 then strain off the water1 dry1 and serve4 ,,to ,,boil ,,cabbage ,the outer leaves of the cabbage should be removed1 then cut it into quarters and cut out the salt2 wash it well in salt and water1 and leave in the water for half-an-hour4 ,then put it into a colander and shake all the water from it4 ,place on the fire a large saucepan of water1 and when it boils1 put in two teaspoonsful of salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda4 ,put in the cabbage and cover down till it boils up2 then remove the lid and boil very quickly1 pressing it down into the water from time to time4 ,it will be done in from fifteen to twenty minutes2 try it with a fork1 and if soft turn into a colander1 and very carefully press all the water from it4 ,slip into a vegetable dish and cut into neat pieces4 ,,to ,,boil ,,green ,,peas ,shell the peas and wash them well2 just cover them with cold water1 season it with a little salt1 sugar1 and mint4 ,bring quickly to the boil and cook for about twenty minutes4 ,when soft1 but not broken1 strain off the water and put them into a vegetable dish4 ,,to ,,boil ,,french ,,beans ,slice up the beans and wash in cold water1 put them into plenty of boiling water1 seasoned with salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda2 boil quickly without the lid for about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour4 ,when soft1 strain off and shake the water out thoroughly2 put into a hot dish1 and serve plainly or with melted butter4 ,,to ,,boil ,,cauliflowers ,soak the cauliflowers in plenty of salt and water1 with the flower downwards1 then cook1 in plenty of boiling water seasoned with salt1 putting the flower to the bottom of the saucepan4 ,keep uncovered all the time of cooking2 take up with a slice and strain in a colander4 ,turn carefully into a vegetable dish1 and serve with or without sauce4 ,,vegetable ,,marrow 99 #a ,marrow--#c;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,white ,sauce 99 99 ,salt--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 99 ,time--#ae ,minutes 99 ,peel the marrow1 take out the seeds1 and cut it into small pieces2 put into boiling water nicely seasoned with salt1 and boil gently for about fifteen minutes4 ,take up with a slice and strain in a colander1 place in a hot dish1 and pour over the sauce4 ,,beetroot ,,in ,,sauce 99 #c ,beetroots--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,white ,sauce--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours 99 ,wash the beetroots1 but do not cut them2 put them in cold water1 and boil till they feel soft if pressed--the time depends upon the size2 then take them up1 peel and slice them4 ,make the sauce by directions given elsewhere4 ,put in the beetroot and simmer for about half an hour2 dish the beets and pour the sauce over4 ,it should be of a bright red colour4 ,,stewed ,,cabbage 99 #a ,cabbage--#c;d4 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--#be ,minutes 99 ,boil the cabbage as directed1 and squeeze very dry2 melt the butter in a saucepan1 season with pepper1 salt1 and a drop or two of lemon juice4 ,put in the cabbage and cook in the butter for ten minutes1 stirring frequently2 arrange neatly in a hot dish1 and serve4 ,,baked ,,tomatoes 99 #a doz4 ,tomatoes--#d;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,bread ,crumbs--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,mustard--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#ae ,minutes 99 ,slice up the tomatoes1 spread with a very little made mustard4 ,season some brown bread crumbs with pepper and salt1 and sprinkle the slices well4 ,put into a buttered dish and bake till soft4 ,serve hot4 ,,curried ,,tomatoes 99 #a doz4 ,tomatoes--#d;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a gill ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,rice--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,apple 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a dessertspoonful ,curry ,powder 99 99 ,salt--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ia_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,mince the onion and apple finely1 and fry in the batter till a good colour2 sprinkle over it the curry power and flour1 and mix well4 ,pour in the milk and stir until it boils2 slice the tomatoes and put them in and simmer very gently for half an hour4 ,season with salt1 dish carefully and serve either in a border of rice1 or with rice moulds on a separate dish4 ,,curried ,,vegetables ,take any vegetables in season1 such as potatoes1 peas1 carrots1 beans1 and cauliflowers1 very young vegetables are the best1 and if there are any cold ones in the larder they will do as well as fresh4 ,slice up the potatoes and branch the cauliflowers1 and1 if they are not been boiled before1 boil them in water seasoned with a little salt and sugar1 for ten minutes1 and strain off the water4 ,put one ounce or more of butter into a saucepan according to the quantity of vegetables1 and when hot stir in half an ounce of flour1 and the same of curry powder4 ,pour in half a pint of milk and stir till it boils4 ,then put in the vegetables and simmer very gently for about half an hour4 ,they should not be broken1 but quite soft1 and all the liquor absorbed4 ,pile in a hot dish and serve with boiled rice4 ,,beetroot ,,and ,,onion ,,stew 99 #c ,beetroots--#b;d4 99 99 #c ,onions--#a;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,sugar 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,salt--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,vinegar 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,mashed ,potatoes--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ga_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,boil the beetroots by directions given and slice them up2 peel and slice up the onions and fry in the butter1 but do not let them brown4 ,stir in the flour and the milk and bring to the boil1 and when it has boiled a few minutes stir in gradually the vinegar1 salt1 and sugar1 then the beetroot4 ,simmer slowly for one hour2 make a border of the potatoes on a hot dish1 garnish with sprigs of parsley4 ,put the beetroot and onion in the centre1 and serve hot4 ,,saute ,,of ,,turnips 99 #f ,turnips--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a gill ,stock 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,sugar 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,peel the turnips and cut them into pieces like the quarter of an orange2 put them into a small stewpan with the butter1 sprinkle over them the sugar and salt1 and stir about till quite brown4 ,pour on the stock1 bring it to the boil1 and simmer till soft but not broken4 ,dish the turnips1 season the gravy with salt and a few drops of lemon juice1 pour over1 and serve4 ,,carrots ,,in ,,butter 99 #d ,carrots--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley 99 99 ,pinch of ,salt and ,sugar--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,scrape the carrots and slice them up1 put them into boiling water seasoned with salt and sugar1 and boil for ten minutes4 ,strain off the water4 ,put the butter into a small saucepan1 and when it is hot stir in the parsley and a few drops of lemon juice4 ,toss the carrots in this until they are thoroughly hot1 then cover down and cook slowly till soft4 ,dish and pour over the butter in which they were cooked4 ,,parsnips ,,and ,,parsley ,,butter 99 #d or #e ,parsnips 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a gill ,milk 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,scrape and cut up the parsnips 7or cold ones will do74 ,if raw1 boil them in water seasoned with salt for three-quarters of an hour4 ,make the butter1 flour1 and milk into a sauce by directions given1 and season nicely4 ,stir in the parsley1 put in the parsnips1 bring to the boil and simmer for ten minutes4 ,arrange them on a hot dish1 pour the sauce over1 and serve4 ,,parsnips ,,fried ,cold boiled parsnips make a delicious breakfast dish if sliced up and fried either in bacon fat1 dripping1 or butter4 ,pile high on a dish and serve very hot4 ,,potato ,,balls 99 #a lb4 ,cold ,boiled ,potatoes 99 99 ,bread ,crumbs--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 ,hot ,fat--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,rub the potatoes through a sieve or mash them smoothly4 ,put the butter into a saucepan1 and1 when melted1 season with pepper and salt2 put in the potatoes and turn them about till hot through4 ,drop in the egg and mix into a paste1 turn on to a plate to cool1 and roll into balls4 ,beat up an egg and brush over the balls1 cover well with crumbs1 and fry in hot fat4 ,the yolks of eggs will do for this dish if the whites are wanted for other purposes4 ,,haricot ,,beans ,soak the haricots over night1 if possible2 if not1 at least for two or three hours4 ,put them on in plenty of cold water seasoned with salt and an onion1 and boil them steadily for three hours4 ,strain the water off1 put them into a vegetable dish1 and pour over them some parsley butter sauce4 ,haricot beans are the most nutritious of all pulse foods1 and are a particularly good food for people who work in the open air4 ,they are very nice eaten alone or served with meat4 ,they make an exceedingly delicious dish if boiled for two hours and then put into a nice brown gravy and simmered for about an hour4 ,serve in the gravy with roast mutton4 ,,potato ,,and ,,tomato ,,pie 99 #f ,tomatoes--#b;d4 99 99 #f ,potatoes--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,short ,pastry 99 99 ,dripping 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley 99 99 #a #a_/b teaspoonful ,sweet ,herbs 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,peel and slice up the potatoes and tomatoes2 lay them alternatively in a pie dish and sprinkle over them some parsley1 herbs1 salt1 and pepper4 ,when the dish is full1 cover with a short pastry and bake for one hour2 serve hot4 ,,cauliflowers ,,and ,,tomatoes 99 #b ,cauliflowers--#d;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,tomato ,sauce--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 99 ,time--#bj ,minutes 99 ,boil the cauliflowers and make the sauce by directions given elsewhere4 ,dish the cauliflowers carefully and pour over them the sauce1 leaving just the centre of the flowers clear4 ,put into the oven for five minutes1 and serve4 ,,stewed ,,celery 99 #c heads of ,celery--#c;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b gill ,milk 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,take only the white and best part of celery for this dish1 pull it to pieces1 wash well in salt and water1 and tie in a bundle4 ,put it into boiling water seasoned with salt1 and boil for about half an hour1 or until the fork will go through easily4 ,take half a pint of the water in which it was boiled and mix it with the milk2 make a sauce with this and the butter and flour by directions given for sauces4 ,dish the celery and pour the sauce over4 ,this is an excellent food for anyone suffering from1 or subject to1 rheumatism or gout4 ,celery is also very nice stewed in broth or gravy and thickened with a little butter and flour4 ,,lettuce ,,stewed 99 #d ,lettuces--#c;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 ,nutmeg 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,wash the lettuces very thoroughly and lay them in salt and water for half an hour4 ,plunge them into plenty of boiling water seasoned with salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda4 ,boil quickly without the lid from fifteen to twenty minutes1 take up and squeeze all the water from them4 ,chop them up and put into a saucepan with some butter1 nutmeg1 pepper and salt1 and a few drops of lemon juice2 stir them about and cook for about five minutes4 ,turn into a hot dish and serve4 ,,baked ,,onions 99 #b lbs4 ,onion--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,thick ,gravy 99 99 #a_/b pint ,water 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,peel the onions1 put them on in cold water1 and bring to the boil4 ,strain the water off1 butter a baking dish1 put in the onions1 pour in the water1 cover with a plate1 and stand in a moderate oven4 ,stew until soft1 place in a hot dish and pour over them1 either a nice gravy thickened with a little butter and flour1 or some plain melted butter4 ,serve hot4 ,,cassolettes ,,of ,,vegetables ,peel some turnips and scoop out the centre2 boil them in salt and water till soft1 but quite whole4 ,if there are any cold vegetables in the larder1 such as beans1 peas1 carrots1 and parsnips1 make them hot2 if not1 cut some into small pieces and boil separately4 ,stir them into any cold sauce that may be left1 or toss them in a little butter4 ,fill the turnip cups with these1 arranging them on a dish1 alternately red and green4 ,serve hot4 ,,vegetable ,,marrow ,,stuffed 99 #a ,vegetable ,marrow--#c;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,veal ,forcemeat--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,melted ,butter ,sauce--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#fa_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,peel a marrow and cut it in half length-ways4 ,prepare some veal forcemeat by recipe given elsewhere1 and make it hot in a saucepan4 ,remove the seeds from the marrow and put in their place the forcemeat2 put the pieces together and bind round with tape4 ,have ready a fish kettle full of boiling water seasoned with salt2 lay the marrow on the drainer and plunge into the water2 boil gently for about twenty-five minutes4 ,slip the marrow carefully into a dish and pour over some melted butter sauce4 ,,lyonnaise ,,potatoes 99 #a lb4 ,potatoes--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,onion ,sauce--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,peel and boil the potatoes in the usual way1 slice them up and put them into a hot dish2 make some rather thin onion sauce by directions given elsewhere1 season with a few drops of lemon juice1 and pour over the potatoes2 serve hot4 ,,potatoes ,,saute ,cut up any cold potatoes that may be left into strips1 not too thin1 put some dripping into a frying pan1 and when very hot put in the potatoes and fry them a pale colour4 ,place them on a hot dish2 melt one ounce of butter in a saucepan2 season with lemon juice1 parsley1 pepper1 and salt4 ,pour this over the potatoes1 and serve very hot4 ,,colcannon ,take any remains of cold boiled cabbage and potatoes1 and cut them into small pieces1 season with pepper and salt4 ,put a small piece of butter into a frying pan2 put in the vegetables and fry them until they are thoroughly hot through and well mixed4 ,turn them on to a hot dish1 make into a neat pile1 and serve4 ,,baked ,,vegetable ,,marrow 99 #a ,vegetable ,marrow 99 99 #a_/b pint ,gravy 99 99 #a oz4 ,dripping 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,peel the marrow and cut into pieces1 remove the seeds1 put on to a baking sheet with some beef dripping1 and bake till soft and rather brown4 ,thicken a little gravy with some flour1 and season and flavour it nicely2 dish the marrow and pour this sauce over4 ,,stewed ,,leeks 99 #a bunch ,leeks 99 99 #a_/b pint ,stock--#b;d4 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,lemon ,juice--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#b #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,cut off the roots and green tops of the leeks and wash well4 ,put them into a saucepan with the stock and stew very gently till soft2 take them up and put on to a hot dish4 ,put the butter into a saucepan1 and when it is dissolved stir in the flour1 mix well1 and strain in the stock4 ,stir until it boils4 ,season with some pepper1 salt1 and a few drops of lemon juice4 ,pour over the leeks1 and serve4 ,,potatoes ,a ,,la ,,maitre ,d',,hotel 99 ,cold ,potatoes--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,maitre d',hotel ,sauce--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes 99 ,make the sauce by recipe given elsewhere1 flavour nicely with lemon juice1 pepper1 and salt4 ,slice up the potatoes1 and put them into it2 simmer for five minutes1 dish1 and serve4 ,,lentils1 ,,to ,,boil ,wash the lentils well in cold water1 cover them with cold water seasoned with salt1 and boil for one hour and a half4 ,strain all the water off1 put them into a hot dish with about half an ounce of butter1 and serve4 ,,curried ,,lentils ,any cold lentils left make a very nice breakfast dish if they are curried4 ,if there should be any curry gravy left1 put them into that and simmer for half an hour2 serve with boiled rice4 ,if there is no curry sauce1 make a little by a recipe given elsewhere4 ,,stewed ,,beetroot ,,and ,,mashed ,,potatoes 99 #a bunch ,beetroot--#b;d4 99 99 #b ,onions--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,mashed ,potatoes 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a_/b pint ,milk 99 99 #a dessertspoonful ,vinegar--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour4 99 ,peel and cut the onions into dice1 put them into a frying-pan with the butter1 and fry1 but do not let them brown2 sprinkle in the flour1 pour in the milk1 and stir until it boils4 ,season with salt1 pepper1 and vinegar4 ,boil the beetroot carefully1 and when cold1 peel and slice up4 ,put it into the sauce and simmer for half an hour4 ,make the mashed potatoes into a border on a hot dish1 and put the beetroot in the centre2 boil up the sauce1 pour it over1 and serve4 ,,cauliflowers ,,au ,,gratin 99 #a ,cauliflower--#d;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,white ,sauce--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,dry ,grated ,cheese 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f;d4 99 99 ,time--#ae ,minutes4 99 ,boil the cauliflower and make the sauce by directions already given4 ,put the cauliflower into a dish in which it can be served1 put half the cheese into the white sauce1 season with pepper and salt1 make it hot and pour over4 ,sprinkle the rest of the cheese on the top1 and put into the oven till quite brown2 it is then ready to serve4 ,,new ,,potatoes ,,saute 99 #a lb4 ,new ,potatoes--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley 99 99 ,lemon ,juice--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour4 99 ,wash the potatoes and put them into boiling salt and water1 and boil for ten minutes4 ,take up1 peel and cut them in half4 ,melt the butter in a saucepan1 and when quite hot1 put in the potatoes and toss over the fire4 ,sprinkle over the parsley1 pepper1 salt1 and a few drops of lemon juice2 cover down and cook gently till the potatoes are soft but not broken4 ,put into a hot dish and serve4 ,,potato ,,puff 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cold ,potatoes--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a gill ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,mash the potatoes1 beat the butter to a cream1 then beat in the eggs1 pepper1 salt1 and milk4 ,stir up the potatoes1 pour into a buttered pie-dish1 and bake for about half an hour4 ,serve hot4 ,,potatoes ,,stuffed 99 #f ,large ,potatoes--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,cold ,meat--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b gill ,gravy or ,sauce 99 99 ,pepper1 ,salt1 and ,parsley--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,half4 99 ,wash and scrub the potatoes1 and bake them in the oven till quite done4 ,cut them in half so that they will stand nicely4 ,scoop out the inside1 and mix the potato meal with some butter1 pepper1 and salt4 ,make a little savoury meat by directions given for mince1 and nearly fill the potato skins with this4 ,put some of the potato on top1 making it look as rough and rocky as possible4 ,stand in the oven till quite hot1 and serve4 ,,haricot ,,beans ,,and ,,bacon 99 #a pint ,haricot ,beans--#b;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,bacon 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#e;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours4 99 ,soak the haricot beans and boil them by directions already given4 ,rub them through a wire sieve4 ,the bacon should be in thin rashers and very fat4 ,cook it carefully in a small clean frying-pan1 and as the fat runs from it1 pour it on the beans4 ,mash them up with this and a little pepper and salt1 and put them into a hot dish4 ,sprinkle over with parsley and lay the bacon rashers on top4 ,serve hot4 ,,artichokes1 ,,to ,,boil 99 #b lbs4 ,artichokes--#d;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,white ,sauce--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour 99 ,wash and peel the artichokes and put them into some water2 add a teaspoonful of vinegar and leave them for half an hour4 ,drain the water all away and put them into a saucepan1 cover with cold water2 add one gill of milk and some salt4 ,bring to the boil and cook slowly for about an hour4 ,take half a pint of the liquor in which the artichokes were boiled1 and make a sauce2 dish them and pour this over4 ,,imitation ,,spinach ,take the very young green shoots of the pumpkin plant4 ,wash them well and put them into a large saucepan1 with a very little water seasoned with salt and a pinch of carbonate of soda2 keep pressing them down into the water and boil till soft4 ,turn into a colander and squeeze very dry1 put into a saucepan with one ounce of butter1 pepper1 salt1 and a few drops of lemon juice4 ,stir about till thoroughly hot through1 dish neatly1 and serve4 ,,bananas ,,stewed 99 #a doz4 ,green ,bananas--#c;d4 99 99 ,lemon ,juice 99 99 #a_/b pint ,brown ,sauce 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour4 99 ,peel the bananas and put them in boiling water to which a few drops of lemon juice have been added2 boil them for half an hour1 or until soft4 ,make sauce by directions already given1 flavour with lemon juice1 pepper1 and salt4 ,strain all the water from the bananas1 dish1 and pour over the sauce ,,potato ,,chips ,to fry potatoes successfully1 two things must be carefully attended to4 ,first of all dry the potatoes thoroughly1 and then have very hot fat4 ,peel the potatoes and dry them in a cloth4 ,cut into any shape--slices1 strips1 quarters1 c4--and dry again4 ,have a good quantity of very hot fat ready1 put the chips into a frying basket1 and plunge into the fat4 ,fry quickly1 and directly they are brown enough they are done4 ,throw them on to some kitchen paper to drain off the fat4 ,pile high on a dish1 sprinkle with salt1 and serve very hot4 ,,italian ,,cabbage 99 #a ,cabbage--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,dry ,cheese 99 99 #a spoonful ,flour 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--#ae ,minutes4 99 ,boil the cabbage by directions given1 strain away the water and press it very dry4 ,put the butter into a saucepan1 and when it is dissolved1 chop up the cabbage and put a layer at the bottom of the saucepan4 ,sprinkle over some grated cheese1 pepper1 and salt1 then more cabbage and cheese1 until all are used up4 ,simmer gently for fifteen minutes1 slip it on to a hot dish1 and serve4 ,,savoury ,,potatoes 99 #e or #f ,large ,potatoes--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,cheese--#a;d4 99 99 #a spoonful of ,milk 99 99 #a ,egg 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ca_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours4 99 ,scrub the potatoes and bake them in the oven4 ,cut off the end1 scoop out all the meal2 grate up some dry pieces of cheese1 beat it into the potatoes with the yolk of the egg1 and some seasoning4 ,whip the white till stiff and stir lightly in2 fill the potatoes with this mixture4 ,lay in a baking sheet and bake for about twenty minutes4 ,garnish with parsley1 and serve4 ,,cauliflower ,,fritters 99 ,cold ,cauliflower 99 99 ,frying ,batter 99 99 ,hot ,fat 99 99 ,total ,cost--#a #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,take any cold cauliflower that may be left1 divide it into branches4 ,make the frying batter by directions given4 ,dip the pieces of cauliflower into it1 and put into very hot fat4 ,fry a good colour and pile high on a dish4 ,garnish with fried parsley and serve very hot4 ,,fried ,,tomatoes 99 #a doz4 ,tomatoes--#d;d4 99 99 #a gill ,milk 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes4 99 ,slice up the tomatoes1 mix a spoonful of flour with some pepper and salt2 dip in the slices and fry quickly1 pile on a dish4 ,pour the milk into the pan in which they were fried1 stir until it boils1 and pour over4 ,garnish with fried bread and serve hot4 ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,,fifty ,,recipes ,,for ,,salads ,,and ,,sauces ,,curry ,,sauce 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a ,apple 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,lemon ,juice 99 99 ,salt--#a;d 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,curry ,powder 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter or ,dripping 99 99 #a pint ,gravy--#a;d 99 99 ,total ,cost--#b;d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour4 99 ,peel and chop up the apple and onion4 ,put the butter or dripping into a saucepan1 and when it is melted put in the apple and onion1 and fry for a few minutes2 sprinkle over the curry powder and the flour4 ,pour over the gravy and stir until it boils4 ,simmer for half an hour1 then strain1 flavour with lemon juice and salt1 boil up1 and it is ready4 ,if this sauce is for fish1 use milk or fish stock instead of gravy4 ,,maitre ,d',,hotel ,,sauce 99 #a_/b pint ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,lemon ,juice 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt4--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,put the butter into a small saucepan1 and when it is melted stir in the flour1 and mix smoothly2 pour in the milk and stir until it boils4 ,take the saucepan from the fire1 add a few drops of lemon juice1 a pinch of pepper and salt to taste1 last of all the parsley4 ,it is then ready to serve4 ,,onion ,,sauce 99 #c ,small ,onions--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,lemon ,juice 99 99 #a_/b pint ,milk 99 99 #a oz4 ,bread ,crumbs 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,peel the onions1 put them into cold water1 and let them boil for a minute4 ,strain away the water1 cover again with cold water1 boil up and cook till soft2 take out the water1 chop small4 ,put the butter and milk into a saucepan1 and when it boils put in the bread crumbs and onions4 ,cook slowly for five minutes1 season with pepper1 salt1 and a few drops of lemon juice1 and it is ready to serve4 ,,cream ,,toast 99 #d ,slices ,toast--#a;d4 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a_/b pint ,white ,sauce--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,make the toast and lay it in a dish4 ,make the sauce by directions given for white sauce4 ,season with pepper and salt1 and pour over it2 serve hot4 ,if a richer dish is desired1 a little butter may be put on the toast4 ,,jam ,,sauce 99 #a tablespoonful ,jam--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,water 99 99 #a oz4 ,sugar 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,cornflour 99 99 #a_/b ,lemon--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#b;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,put the water1 jam1 lemon juice1 and sugar into a small saucepan and boil it for five minutes4 ,mix the cornflour with a little cold water and pour it in2 stir till it boils up4 ,strain the jam out1 and it is ready to serve2 a few drops of cochineal improve the colour4 ,,to ,,clarify ,,dripping ,when the joint is served pour the dripping into a basin and stand away till cold2 then cut it out of the basin4 ,the gravy that will be found at the bottom is an excellent addition to hash or mince4 ,cut the dripping into small pieces and pour over it sufficient boiling water to dissolve it4 ,stir it well and leave till it is a solid cake of fat4 ,cut it off the water1 scrape the impurities from the bottom1 and it will be ready for use4 ,,to ,,clarify ,,fat ,the fat from meat not required in dressing it1 and the ends of chops1 c41 make excellent shortening for pies and cakes4 ,cut it into small pieces and put it into an old saucepan with about one quart of water4 ,boil until all the water is evaporated2 the fat will then begin to boil4 ,strain this melted fat into a basin1 and continue to do so until all the fat is extracted4 ,this is a good substitute for butter and lard4 ,,melted ,,butter ,,sauce 99 #a_/b pint ,water 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,salt 99 99 ,total ,cost--#a #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,put half the butter into a small saucepan1 and when it is dissolved stir in the flour and mix smoothly2 pour in the cold water and stir until it boils4 ,take the saucepan from the fire1 stir in the rest of the butter in small pieces1 and some salt1 it is then ready to serve4 ,,to ,,boil ,,rice ,wash the rice well in two or three waters2 have a large saucepan on the fire full of boiling water seasoned with salt4 ,throw in the rice and boil very quickly for five or six minutes4 ,take up a grain1 and if it feels quite soft it is done2 if not1 boil another minute4 ,strain off the water and pour over it some clean hot water to separate the grains4 ,if required immediately1 put it back in the saucepan and toss over the fire till dry4 ,if not1 spread it on a sieve or dish and dry on the stove1 covered with a cloth1 or in the oven with the door open4 ,,to ,,fry ,,parsley ,the top or flower of parsley only should be used for frying4 ,pick it carefully and rub well in a damp cloth1 and then in a dry cloth4 ,put into a frying basket and plunge into the fat when the fish1 or whatever it is to be served with1 has been fried2 leave it in not more than one minute4 ,turn it on to some kitchen paper and stand for a minute on the stove to dry2 it is then ready4 ,,frying ,,batter 99 #a_/d lb4 ,flour--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b gill ,tepid ,water 99 99 ,white of ,egg 99 99 #a dessertspoonful ,oil--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aa_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,sift the flour into a basin1 pour over it the oil1 then the water1 and beat into a smooth batter2 stand away for an hour1 if possible in a cool place4 ,whip the white of the egg to a stiff froth1 and stir it in1 and it is ready to use4 ,this batter is useful for fritters and many dishes both sweet and savoury4 ,,tomato ,,sauce 99 #f ,tomatoes--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a_/b spoonful ,sugar 99 99 #a_/b spoonful ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ca_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,if the tomatoes are ripe they need not be cooked2 but if at all hard1 boil them for five minutes4 ,then slice up and rub through a sieve4 ,put the butter into a small saucepan1 and when it is dissolved stir in the flour and sugar2 then pour in the tomato juice and stir until it boils2 season with salt to taste4 ,this is tomato sauce pure and simple2 but it is often made with half stock and half tomato juice2 it is suitable for chops1 steaks1 c4 ,if made thicker it is called a puree1 and is served with braised and dressed meats4 ,,white ,,sauce 99 #a_/b pint ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour 99 99 ,salt and ,pepper--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#b #a_/b d4 99 99 ,time ,minutes4 99 ,put the butter into a small saucepan1 and when it is dissolved put in the flour2 mix well and pour on the cold milk and stir till it boils4 ,let it boil for two minutes and it is ready4 ,it may be served either as a sweet or savoury sauce1 putting either sugar or pepper and salt1 as required4 ,,brown ,,gravy ,brown gravy can be made from any kind of stock4 ,if the stock is good1 put it into a saucepan and thicken every pint with #a oz of flour4 ,if the stock is not very good1 boil some vegetables in it with any trimmings of meat and poultry available1 and thicken with butter and flour2 a few drops of lemon juice will bring up the flavour4 ,it should be of a rich brown colour4 ,it can be coloured with a little sugar burnt in a spoon1 or with a few drops of caramel1 a recipe for which will be found elsewhere4 ,,brown ,,sauce 99 #a pint ,stock 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,flour--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b ,stalk of ,celery 99 99 #a ,carrot 99 99 #a ,onion 99 99 #a_/b ,turnip 99 99 #a doz4 ,peppercorns--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,put the butter into a saucepan1 and when it is quite hot1 slice up the vegetables and put them in with the peppercorns1 and fry a good colour4 ,stir in the flour and brown that too1 then pour in the stock and stir till it boils4 ,cover down and let it simmer slowly for an hour4 ,rub through a sieve1 return to the saucepan2 season with salt and lemon juice1 boil up1 and it is ready to serve4 ,,caramel ,put half a pound of sugar into a frying-pan and let it get very brown4 ,pour over half a pint of water and stir till it boils2 strain into a bottle4 ,it will keep good a long time1 and is very useful for colouring soup and gravies4 ,,veal ,,forcemeat 99 #b oz4 ,suet 7,beef7--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #c oz4 ,bread ,crumbs--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #a ,egg 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,parsley 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,sweet ,herbs 99 99 ,half a ,lemon--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ba_/b d4 99 ,shred the suet and mix it with the bread crumbs4 ,chop the parsley and sweet herbs very finely and stir them in1 then the grated rind of half a lemon1 and the pepper and salt2 drop in the egg and bind into a paste1 and it is ready to use4 ,this forcemeat is suitable for fowls1 turkeys1 veal1 and fish4 ,,to ,,make ,,brown ,,crumbs ,cut up some very stale bread and bake it in the oven till a nice colour4 ,put these pieces through a sausage machine and then rum them through a sieve2 keep in a bottle for use4 ,they are excellent for many savoury dishes1 and it is good way of using up stale pieces of bread4 ,,salad ,,of ,,cold ,,vegetables ,take any cold vegetables that there may be in the larder--such as potatoes1 cauliflowers1 peas1 beans1 haricots1 c4 ,slice up the potatoes1 branch the cauliflower1 and mix in the peas and beans2 put all into a salad bowl4 ,take oil and vinegar in the proportion of one of oil to two of vinegar1 blend them together and season with salt and pepper4 ,pour this over the vegetables1 slice up one or two hard boiled eggs into very thin slices1 and lay round as a garnish4 ,,banana ,,and ,,orange ,,salad ,peel and slice up some ripe bananas and oranges1 removing the pips from the oranges1 but saving the juice4 ,take a deep glass dish1 lay at the bottom some bananas1 then a layer of oranges4 ,sprinkle well with sugar1 then some more bananas and oranges and sugar1 until all the materials are used up4 ,cover and let it stand for an hour1 then serve as a sweet4 ,,cosmopolitan ,,salad ,take any fruits in season1 such as oranges1 mandarins1 passion fruit1 apricots1 nectarines1 pineapples1 bananas1 c4 ,peel and slice them up1 and put them into a glass dish in layers1 with plenty of sugar between each layer4 ,stand in a cool place for an hour covered over1 and it is ready to serve4 ,,potato ,,salad ,slice up some cold boiled potatoes4 ,sprinkle with salt1 pepper1 and chopped parsley4 ,mix the oil and vinegar together in the proportion of two of oil to one of vinegar2 pour this over1 let it stand for an hour1 and serve4 ,,venetian ,,rice 99 #a_/b lb4 ,rice--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cheese--#b;d4 99 99 #a pint ,stock 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--,three-quarters of an ,hour4 99 ,boil some rice1 or take any cold rice that may be left1 put it into a saucepan with the stock1 and simmer till the stock is absorbed4 ,grate up some dry1 hard pieces of cheese1 stir them in with the butter1 pepper and salt4 ,cover down by the side of the fire for about half an hour2 pile on a dish1 and serve4 ,,tomatoes ,,and ,,eggs 99 #d ,eggs--#d;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,tomato ,sauce--#b;d4 99 99 ,fried ,bread 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,parsley--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,take some thick tomato sauce and pour it on to a hot dish4 ,poach the eggs carefully and lay them on the sauce4 ,garnish with parsley and fried bread1 and serve hot4 ,,macaroni ,,cheese 99 #b oz4 ,macaroni--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,white ,sauce--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #c oz4 ,dry ,cheese 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes4 99 ,put the macaroni into boiling salt and water1 and boil for half an hour or until soft2 strain off the water and cut into pieces about #a #a_/b inch long4 ,make the sauce by directions given elsewhere4 ,mix in half the cheese and some pepper and salt4 ,take a dish in which it can be served1 and lay at the bottom some macaroni2 then some sauce and a little of the dry cheese4 ,continue in this way till all the materials are used up1 leaving plenty of dry cheese for the top4 ,put in the oven for five or ten minutes till a nice colour4 ,serve hot4 ,,mayonnaise 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a gill ,oil--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b gill ,vinegar 99 99 ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#da_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,three-quarters of an ,hour4 99 ,put the yolks of the eggs into a basin1 sprinkle over the salt1 begin to stir them with a wooden spoon1 dropping in the oil very slowly4 ,the sauce must be kept thick1 and the oil added very slowly4 ,when it is quite thick and smooth1 pour in the vinegar slowly1 and it is ready for use4 ,this is considered the finest of all salad dressings4 ,if made some time before it is required for table1 it must be kept cool4 ,it ought to stand in ice1 and the vinegar should be added just before serving4 ,it may be used for any kind of salad instead of the ordinary dressing4 ,,hints ,,on ,,salad ,salads form such a pleasant item in the menu1 particularly during the hot season1 that they should be regarded as a daily dish4 ,there are no scraps of fish1 poultry1 meat1 or cold boiled vegetables1 but what can be turned to account in this way4 ,if these are utilised1 a great variety can be obtained at a very trifling cost2 in fact these dainty tit-bits can often be made of food that otherwise would be thrown away4 ,cold cauliflowers1 beans1 peas1 and potatoes are particularly nice in salads4 ,,fish ,,salad 99 ,cold ,boiled ,fish--#d;d4 99 99 #a ,lettuce--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 ,salad ,dressing1 or ,remoulade ,sauce--#d;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ia_/b d4 99 ,make a salad dressing the same as that given for lettuce salad2 flake up the fish free from skin and bone4 ,wash and dry the lettuce and shred it up1 mix the fish with the dressing4 ,put a layer of lettuce at the bottom of the bowl1 then one of fish and dressing4 ,do this alternatively1 leaving plenty of lettuce for the top2 garnish with hard boiled eggs cut into slices4 ,,lettuce ,,salad 99 #b ,lettuces--#a;d4 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,condensed ,milk 99 99 #b teaspoonful ,mustard--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b gill ,vinegar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/d gill ,oil 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 ,boil the eggs hard2 take the yolk of one and put it into a basin and work it quite smooth with a spoon4 ,then add the mustard made with vinegar instead of water1 the condensed milk1 pepper1 and salt1 and then the oil slowly2 last of all the vinegar4 ,mix it all very thoroughly4 ,cut off the outside leaves of the lettuce1 and pull it all to pieces1 wash in cold water and dry thoroughly in a cloth4 ,break into small pieces and put into a salad bowl1 pour over the dressing4 ,garnish with the other egg and the white that was not used in the dressing4 ,these should be cut into slices and placed round4 ,a few of the best pieces of lettuce should be laid over the dressing4 ,,beetroot ,,and ,,macaroni ,,salad 99 #c oz4 ,macaroni--#b;d4 99 99 #b tablespoonsful ,oil--#a;d4 99 99 #a bunch ,beetroot 99 99 ,pepper and ,salt 99 99 #b tablespoonful ,vinegar--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 ,boil both the macaroni and the beetroot by directions given elsewhere4 ,when quite cold1 peel and slice up the beetroot and cut the macaroni into pieces about two inches long2 arrange them in alternate layers on a dish4 ,blend the oil and vinegar with the salt and pepper and pour it over2 let it stand for an hour1 basting continually with the oil and vinegar4 ,by that time it should be of a bright red colour4 ,it is then ready to serve4 ,,prawn ,,salad 99 #a pint ,prawns--#i;d4 99 99 #f ,tomatoes--#b;d4 99 99 ,mayonnaise or ,salad ,dressing--#d;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #c;d4 99 ,pick the prawns1 leaving the skin on a few fine ones for a garnish4 ,peel and slice up the tomatoes and arrange them on a dish2 put over them the prawns1 and pour over all some mayonnaise or salad dressing4 ,place the other prawns round as a garnish with a few lettuce leaves broken up4 ,,salad ,,of ,,corned ,,beef 99 ,slices of ,corned ,beef 99 99 #a ,lettuce--#a_/b4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 ,mayonnaise or ,salad ,dressing--#d;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#fa_/b d4 99 ,take some slices of cold corned beef1 dip them in a salad dressing1 and lay them in a dish with alternate layers of lettuce leaves4 ,garnish with hard boiled eggs cut in slices4 ,,egg ,,salad 99 #f ,eggs--#f;d4 99 99 #a ,lettuce--#a;d4 99 99 #a bunch ,watercress--#a;d4 99 99 ,mayonnaise or ,salad ,dressing--#d;d4 99 99 #a ,beetroot--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #j #a_/b d4 99 ,put the eggs into boiling water and boil fifteen minutes4 ,plunge into cold water till quite cold1 peel and cut into quarters4 ,wash and cleanse the watercress and lettuce and cut into pieces4 ,put a layer of this at the bottom of the bowl1 then one of eggs dipped in the dressing1 then another of lettuce and egg until all are used up1 leaving plenty of lettuce for the top4 ,garnish with sprigs of watercress and slices of beetroot alternately4 ,,celery ,,salad 99 #a ,head of ,celery--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,lettuce--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,salad ,dressing--#d;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d4 99 ,pull the celery to pieces1 wash it1 and cut into small pieces2 shred up some lettuce and lay it at the bottom the dish4 ,stir the celery into the dressing and lay it on the top of the lettuce4 ,cover with more lettuce1 and serve4 ,,sardine ,,salad 99 #a_/b tin ,sardines--#d;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a ,lettuce--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,salad ,dressings--#d;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aja_/b d4 99 ,split the sardines open and remove the bone4 ,break some of the lettuce into a bowl1 lay on this the sardines4 ,chop up one of the eggs and sprinkle over them1 pour on the dressing4 ,cover with the rest of the lettuce1 and garnish with the other egg cut in slices1 and a little watercress or beetroot4 ,,oyster ,,salad 99 #a bottle ,oysters--#as4 99 99 #a ,lettuce--#a;d4 99 99 ,half a ,lemon 99 99 ,mayonnaise or ,salad ,dressing--#d;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#as4 #e;d4 99 ,strain away the liquor from a bottle of oysters2 put it into a saucepan1 and when it boils put in the oysters and cook for five minutes2 let them get cold in the liquor4 ,wash and break up the lettuce and put some of the bottom of a bowl4 ,strain the liquor from the oysters and mix a little with the dressing1 stir in the oysters and spread over the lettuce4 ,cover with more lettuce and garnish with slices of lemon and red radishes4 ,,blue ,,cod ,,salad ,any remains of smoked blue cod that may have been left from a meal make an excellent salad either with just a simple dressing of oil and vinegar and a lettuce1 or with a mayonnaise or salad dressing4 ,follow the directions for fish salad1 but do not put any salt1 as the fish is usually salt enough4 ,,italian ,,salad 99 #a ,salt ,herring 99 99 ,cold slices of ,meat 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,mustard 99 99 #a ,beetroot--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #d tablespoonsful ,oil--#a;d4 99 99 #c tablespoonsful ,tarragon ,vinegar 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,capers 99 99 #c ,boiled ,potatoes--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d #a_/b;d4 99 ,wash the herring in cold water and soak it in milk for an hour2 cut it open and take out the bone and slice up both the fish and the meat4 ,arrange in a bowl1 chop the capers and put over4 ,put the mustard into a basin1 add gradually the oil and vinegar2 pour this1 when well mixed1 over the fish and meat1 and cover with slices of cold potatoes4 ,garnish with any cold vegetables in the larder or with some green pickles from a bottle of pickles1 a little chopped parsley1 and some small radishes4 ,,macaroni ,,and ,,cheese ,,salad 99 #a_/d lb4 ,macaroni--#b #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,cheese--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,french ,mustard 99 99 #c tablespoonsful ,oil--#a;d4 99 99 #c tablespoonsful ,vinegar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b ,head of ,celery--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b ,lettuce--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f #a_/b d4 99 ,boil the macaroni1 or use any cold that may be in the larder4 ,cut it into pieces about three inches long1 cut the cheese into very thin slices1 and cut the celery into very small pieces4 ,lay these alternately in a bowl with some shredded lettuce4 ,make a dressing of the mustard1 oil1 and vinegar1 and pour it over4 ,garnish with a little beetroot1 and serve4 ,,cheese ,,savoury ,take some dry1 hard cheese and some dry crusts of bread4 ,pour a little boiling milk over the bread1 cover it down till quite soft1 then beat it with a fork2 grate up the cheese and beat it in with the yolk of an egg and some pepper and salt4 ,beat the white of the egg to a stiff froth and stir it lightly in1 pour into a buttered pie-dish and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes4 ,serve hot4 ,,turnip ,,salad 99 #d ,young ,turnips 99 99 #b ,spring ,onions--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #b ,boiled ,potatoes--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,half a ,lettuce--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,salad ,dressing--#d;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f #a_/b d4 99 ,peel and slice up the turnips and boil them for twenty minutes1 or until soft4 ,let them get quite cold4 ,shred up very small the onions1 and slice up the potatoes4 ,break up half a lettuce4 ,arrange these neatly in a bowl and pour over a simple salad dressing or remoulade sauce4 ,,east ,,indian ,,salad ,,sauce 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,curry ,powder--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b gill ,oil 99 99 #a_/d gill ,vinegar--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 ,boil the eggs hard2 put the yolks into a bowl and work them till they are quite smooth4 ,work in gradually the curry powder1 oil1 and vinegar4 ,blend well1 and it is ready4 ,it may be used sometimes instead of mayonnaise or ordinary salad dressing4 ,,bread ,,salad 99 #e slices ,stale ,bread 99 99 #a_/b gill ,oil 99 99 #c ,pickled ,onions 99 99 #a piece ,pickled ,cauliflower--#b;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a ,beetroot 99 99 #b slices ,cold ,mutton 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,vinegar--#a;d4 99 99 ,mustard and ,cress--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d4 99 ,trim off the crust and cut the bread into dice1 put into a bowl and pour over the oil4 ,let it stand till all the oil is absorbed2 then mince up the onion1 cauliflower1 eggs1 and meat1 and strew them over4 ,season with pepper and salt4 ,well wash the mustard and cress and arrange on the top4 ,cut the beetroot into neat shapes and arrange as a garnish4 ,,breakfast ,,salad 99 #b ,tomatoes--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,cucumber--#b;d4 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,oil--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,spring ,onion 99 99 ,half a ,lettuce 99 99 #b tablespoonsful ,vinegar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ca_/b d4 99 ,scald the tomatoes and take off the skin1 and put them into cold water or on to the ice until quite cold4 ,cut them up the same as an orange2 peel and cut up the cucumber into very thin slices and mince up the onion4 ,sprinkle these with pepper and salt1 pour over the oil and vinegar4 ,shred up the lettuce and lay on the top1 it is then ready to serve4 ,,cauliflower ,,salad 99 #a ,cauliflower--#c;d4 99 99 ,half a ,lettuce--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b gill ,oil and ,vinegar--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#fa_/b d4 99 ,boil the cauliflower by directions given elsewhere and branch it carefully4 ,boil the eggs hard1 separate the whites from the yolks2 chop the whites small and cut the yolks in slices4 ,shred up the lettuce in a bowl and put the branches of cauliflower all round it1 and the slices of yolk of egg outside as a border4 ,pour on the salad dressing and put the white of egg in little heaps on the lettuce4 ,it is then ready to serve4 ,,carrot ,,salad 99 #b or #c ,cold ,boiled ,carrots--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,cold ,boiled ,mutton 99 99 #a stalk ,celery 99 99 #f ,capers--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,half a teaspoonful ,parsley--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,salad ,dressing--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d4 99 ,cut up some cold boiled mutton into small pieces and lay them in a salad bowl4 ,mince up the celery and capers and strew over it1 then pour over the dressing4 ,slice up the cold carrots and lay them on top2 garnish with the chopped parsley1 and serve4 ,,calf',s ,,foot ,,salad ,calves' feet that have been boiled down for jelly make a good salad4 ,they must1 of course1 be boiled very thoroughly for at least eight hours4 ,strain off the stock1 remove the bones1 and put the meat on one side till quite cold4 ,then cut up into neat pieces and put into a salad bowl4 ,pour over a salad dressing or just oil and vinegar2 shred over it a nice white lettuce1 and garnish with sliced beetroot4 ,,remoulade ,,salad ,,dressing ,this is a good dressing when mayonnaise is not liked4 ,it is made in the same way as mayonnaise1 using hard boiled eggs 7yolks7 instead of raw ones4 ,put the yolks into a basin and work very smoothly with the bowl of a wooden spoon2 add the oil gradually1 using about one gill to every two yolks4 ,a little ,french mustard and vinegar may be added before using4 ,,soup ,,meat ,,salad ,the meat which has been boiled down for soup makes a nice salad4 ,when the stock has been poured off1 press the meat into a basin with about a gill of jelly stock1 and some salt and pepper4 ,when cold and firm1 cut it into neat pieces and lay in a salad bowl4 ,pour over it some remoulade sauce and shred on top some nice white lettuce leaves2 it may be garnished with beetroot or hard boiled eggs4 ,,lamb ,,salad 99 ,cold ,roast ,lamb 99 99 #b ,lettuces--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,tomato--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #ab ,capers--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 ,remoulade ,dressing--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 ,cut the lamb into small pieces and lay it in a bowl4 ,cut the tomato into thin slices and lay it over1 then the capers chopped small4 ,pour over the dressing1 break up the lettuces and put over1 and garnish with the hard boiled eggs cut in slices4 ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,,fifty ,,recipes ,,for ,,sweets ,,apple ,,and ,,tapioca 99 #f ,apples--#c;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,tapioca--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b ,lemon--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,sugar 99 99 #a #a_/d pints ,water 99 99 ,a few drops of ,cochineal--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#da_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour 99 ,peel and quarter the apples and remove the core1 put them into a saucepan with the lemon juice1 sugar1 and a spoonful of water1 and stew till soft but not broken4 ,place them in a glass dish4 ,wash the tapioca in cold water1 put it in a saucepan1 pour over it #a #a_/d pints of water1 and stir till it boils4 ,cook it till quite clear1 sweeten and flavour with a few drops of lemon juice1 and colour with cochineal4 ,pour over the apples and put away till cold2 it is then ready to serve4 ,,short ,,pastry--,no4 #a 99 #a lb4 ,flour 99 99 #f or #h oz4 ,dripping 99 99 #a gill ,water 99 99 ,total ,cost--#b;d4 99 ,sift the flour into a basin1 rub in the dripping very lightly until it is quite fine1 mix into a very stiff dough with the water1 turn on to a floured board1 and knead into a smooth paste4 ,roll out to the required thickness1 and it is ready at once4 ,this will be found an exceedingly nice paste for everyday pies1 and it is very wholesome4 ,the dripping should be clarified1 directions for which are given elsewhere4 ,,short ,,pastry--,no4 #b 99 #a lb4 ,flour--#b;d4 99 99 #h oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a gill ,water 99 99 ,juice of ,half a ,lemon--#f;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#h;d4 99 ,sift the flour into a basin1 rub the butter lightly in1 until it is fine as bread crumbs2 make a well in the centre1 and strain the lemon juice4 ,mix into a stiff paste with the water1 knead for a few minutes until it is quite smooth1 it is then ready for use4 ,a crust may be made with lard just in the same way2 this is much lighter of digestion than a butter crust1 and should always be given to anyone suffering from a weak digestion4 ,,flaky ,,crust 99 #a lb4 ,flour--#b;d4 99 99 #d oz4 ,butter--#c;d4 99 99 #d oz4 ,lard 99 99 #a_/b pint ,water 99 99 ,juice of ,half a ,lemon--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 ,sift the flour into a basin1 cut about one ounce of the lard into it with a knife1 then mix into a paste with the water2 it should be about the same consistency as the butter4 ,roll it out evenly1 and lay on it small pieces of the butter and lard1 sprinkle with flour and roll into three2 roll out again and proceed as before4 ,it is ready for use at once if required1 but it is much improved by standing in a cool place for an hour4 ,this kind of pastry requires a very quick oven2 and if used for meat pies1 a piece of buttered paper should be laid over the top as soon as it has rise1 to prevent it getting too brown4 ,,suet ,,pastry--,no4 #a 99 #a lb4 ,flour--#b;d4 99 99 #aj oz4 ,beef ,suet 99 99 #a_/b pint ,water--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 ,sift the flour into a basin1 and make it into a firm paste with the water4 ,free the suet from skin1 and put it twice through a sausage machine4 ,roll the paste out1 and put half over it in very tiny pieces2 sprinkle with flour and fold into three4 ,double the ends over till they meet1 roll out again1 and put on the rest of the suet and proceed as before4 ,it is then ready for use1 but is much improved by standing for an hour in a cold place4 ,this is a very wholesome pastry1 and particularly nice for meat pies4 ,if it is properly made1 it ought to rise like the best puff pastry2 it is an easy crust to make in hot weather1 when the puff crusts made with butter are troublesome4 ,,suet ,,pastry--,no4 #b 99 #a lb4 ,flour--#b;d4 99 99 #h oz4 ,suet 99 99 #a_/b pint ,water 99 99 ,pinch of ,salt--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 ,sift the flour into a basin2 prepare the suet by cutting it into very thin slices and then shredding it up very fine indeed2 mix it in with the flour4 ,stir in the water until it is a firm consistency1 but do not use too much water1 or the paste will be tough4 ,suet crust should be kept as dry as possible4 ,turn it on to a floured board and knead for a few minutes4 ,it is then ready for use2 this crust is suitable for all kinds of boiled puddings1 such as meat1 apple1 jam1 c4 ,these puddings require to be boiled for a very long time4 ,they must always be plunged into boiling water1 and kept boiling and covered with water all the time they are cooking4 ,,suet ,,pudding 99 #a lb4 ,flour--#b;d4 99 99 #h or #aj oz4 ,suet 99 99 #a_/d teaspoonful ,salt 99 99 #a_/b pint ,water 99 99 #b ,cold ,potatoes--#c;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours and a ,half4 99 ,sift the flour and salt into a basin1 mash the potatoes or rub them through a sieve1 and stir them in4 ,shred the suet finely and mix in thoroughly with a knife2 make into rather a stiff paste with the water1 dip a pudding cloth into boiling water4 ,put the pudding into the centre1 and tie up tightly4 ,plunge into boiling water and boil steadily for two hours2 turn out of the cloth carefully into a hot dish1 and serve4 ,this pudding is delicious with roast meat1 or it may be served as a sweet2 jam sauce is nice poured round it4 ,a recipe for this will be found elsewhere4 ,,hasty ,,pudding ,,souffle 99 #a pint ,milk--#b;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,flour 99 99 #a oz4 ,sugar 99 99 ,flavourings--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 99 ,time--#dj ,minutes 99 ,put the milk on to boil1 mix the flour smoothly with a little cold milk2 when the milk in the saucepan nearly boils stir this in and stir until it boils4 ,then take off the fire and beat in the sugar1 flavouring1 and the yolks of the eggs4 ,whisk the whites to a stiff froth and stir them lightly in1 pour into a buttered pie-dish1 and bake in a brisk oven for forty minutes2 serve hot4 ,,cheese ,,cakes 99 #a pint ,sour ,milk--#b;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,flaky ,pastry--#c;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,sugar 99 99 ,flavouring--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#h;d4 99 99 ,time--#ae ,minutes4 99 ,pour the milk through a sieve and use only the thick curd which does not run through into the basin2 beat in the sugar1 yolks of the eggs1 and flavouring to taste4 ,roll our some flaky pastry and line some patty pans with it2 fill them with rice or crusts of bread1 and bake for about ten minutes4 ,then take out the rice or crusts and fill with the cheese cake mixture4 ,finish baking1 and stand on a sieve till cool4 ,sprinkle well with sugar1 and serve cold4 ,,banana ,,souffle 99 #f ,bananas--#b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,sugar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,choose ripe bananas1 peel and slice them up1 and lay them in a glass dish1 sprinkle with sugar4 ,make a custard with the milk and yolks of the eggs by directions for boiled custard1 flavour with a pinch of ginger1 and pour it over the bananas4 ,let it stand till quite cold1 then whip the whites to a very stiff froth and heap them on top2 sprinkle with sugar1 and serve4 ,,boiled ,,custard 99 #a pint ,milk--#b;d4 99 99 #c ,eggs--#c;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,sugar 99 99 ,flavouring--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes 99 ,put the yolks of the eggs into a basin and whisk them4 ,put the milk into a saucepan1 and when it is boiling pour it over the eggs1 stirring all the time4 ,strain back into the saucepan and whist well till it comes to boiling point2 draw away from the fire1 but continue whisking for a few minutes4 ,then pour into a basin1 sweeten and flavour to taste1 and it is ready for use4 ,,cornflour ,,custard 99 #a_/b pint ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #a dessertspoonful ,cornflour 99 99 ,sugar and ,flavouring--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,put the milk into a saucepan to boil1 mix the cornflour with a spoonful of cold milk1 and when the milk in the saucepan is nearly boiling1 stir it in and continue stirring till it boils4 ,let it boil two or three minutes1 then draw the saucepan away from the fire1 beat in the yolk of the egg and flavouring4 ,put back on the fire and bring to boiling point2 it is then ready for use4 ,this is a good sauce for plum or other puddings and fruit tarts4 ,,bachelor',s ,,buttons 99 #e oz4 ,flour--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,sugar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,carbonate of ,soda 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,cream of ,tartar 99 99 #f drops ,essence of ,almonds--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes4 99 ,rub the butter into the flour1 stir in the sugar1 carbonate of soda1 and cream of tartar2 mix into a stiff dough with the egg and flavouring4 ,roll into small balls about the size of a marble2 toss in coarse sugar1 put on to a greased baking sheet1 and bake from five to eight minutes4 ,,prince ,,of ,,wales ,,cakes 99 #a_/d lb4 ,flour--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,cornflour--#a;d4 99 99 #a gill ,milk--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,baking ,powder--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,butter--#b;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 ,flavouring--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,sugar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#fa_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#bj ,minutes4 99 ,mix the flour1 cornflour1 and baking powder together1 beat the butter and sugar to a cream1 beat in the egg1 flavouring1 and milk1 then the flour1 c41 and continue to beat for five minutes4 ,butter some small bun tins1 half fill them with the mixture1 put into a moderate oven and bake for about twenty minutes2 stand on a sieve till cold4 ,,normandy ,,pudding 99 #b ,stale ,buns--#b;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 ,sugar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#da_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,half4 99 ,boil the milk and pour it over the beaten egg1 sweeten to taste4 ,put the buns into a pie-dish1 pour over the custard1 cover and leave for an hour4 ,then put into a moderate oven and bake for about half an hour4 ,serve hot4 ,,rusk ,,pudding 99 #a slice of ,dry ,bread 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,sugar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,half a ,lemon--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b pints of ,milk--#d;d4 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,jam--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b tablespoonful ,cornflour--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ha_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,take a piece of very stale bread and cut it into small squares1 bake it in the oven till a good colour4 ,break the eggs into a pie-dish1 beat in the sugar and grated rind of the lemon1 pour in one pint of milk1 and mix well4 ,drop in the rusks and put into a cool oven and bake till firm2 then spread on the top a layer of jam4 ,put half a pint of milk into a saucepan1 and when it nearly boils1 stir in the cornflour which has been mixed with a little lemon peel and sugar1 and pour it on top of the pudding4 ,put it back in the oven for a few minutes1 then stand away till cold4 ,,bedford ,,pudding 99 ,dry ,crusts of ,bread 99 99 #a_/b pint of ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,jam--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,sugar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#da_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,three-quarters of an ,hour4 99 ,soak the bread in cold water till quite soft1 put it into a cloth and squeeze all the water out of it2 turn into a basin and beat it smooth with a spoon4 ,then beat in the yolks of the eggs1 sugar1 milk1 and a little grated lemon peel4 ,pour into a pie dish and bake till quite firm1 then take from the oven and spread the jam on the top4 ,whip the whites to a stiff froth and spread over the jam2 put back in the oven for a few minutes till brown1 then sprinkle with sugar and serve either hot or cold4 ,,de ,,mestre ,,pudding 99 #a_/b lb4 ,flour--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,raisins--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,sugar--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,dripping 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,carbonate of ,soda 99 99 #a gill ,boiling ,water--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#da_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,three ,hours4 99 ,put the flour into a basin2 stone the raisins and cut them in half1 mix in the sugar and carbonate of soda4 ,dissolve the dripping in the water1 pour in and make into a dough2 leave it to stand all night4 ,dip a cloth in boiling water and tie the pudding up tightly4 ,plunge into plenty of boiling water1 and keep it boiling steadily for three hours2 turn into a hot dish4 ,a little custard sauce served with this pudding is a great improvement4 ,,yankee ,,pudding 99 #a ,egg1 and its ,weight in ,flour--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,sugar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,bread ,crumbs--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,marmalade--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,carbonate of ,soda 99 99 #a_/b gill ,milk--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,mix the flour1 sugar1 and bread crumbs together2 stir in the marmalade4 ,make the milk just warm1 dissolve in it the soda4 ,beat up the egg and mix together1 pour this over the dry ingredients1 beat for a few minutes2 turn into a buttered basin4 ,tie over it a cloth1 plunge into boiling water1 and boil one hour4 ,serve either hot or cold4 ,a spoonful of marmalade placed on the top of this pudding just before serving is an improvement4 ,,sponge ,,roll 99 #c tablespoonsful ,flour--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #c tablespoonsful ,sugar--#a;d4 99 99 #c ,eggs--#c;d4 99 99 #b teaspoonsful ,baking ,powder--#a;d4 99 99 #c teaspoonsful ,jam--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes4 99 ,beat the eggs and sugar together for five minutes1 mix the flour and baking powder together and stir them lightly in4 ,pour into a well-buttered tin and bake in a quick oven for eight or ten minutes4 ,turn on to a damp cloth and roll up directly2 warm the jam in a saucepan while the roll is cooking1 and if it is very stiff mix in a spoonful of water4 ,take the roll out of the cloth and lay flat on a piece of sugared paper1 spread the jam on quickly and roll up again2 place on a sieve till cold4 ,,seed ,,cake 99 #a lb4 ,flour--#b;d4 99 99 #f oz4 ,dripping 99 99 #f oz4 ,sugar--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b teaspoonsful ,caraway ,seeds--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #b teaspoonsful ,baking ,powder 99 99 #a gill ,milk or ,water--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#fa_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,half4 99 ,sift the flour into a basin and rub in the dripping2 carefully stir in the sugar1 baking powder1 and caraway seeds4 ,beat up the egg and milk or water1 and mix the dry ingredients into a dough2 beat for two or three minutes4 ,turn into a cake tin which has been well rubbed with dripping1 stand on a baking sheet and place in a moderate oven4 ,bake for one hour and a half or longer1 test it by running a skewer right through the centre2 if it comes out clean the cake is done4 ,turn it out of the tine carefully and stand on a sieve till cold4 ,,scones--,no4 #a 99 #c_/d lb4 ,flour--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #b teaspoonsful ,baking ,powder--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes4 99 ,rub the butter into the flour1 stir in the baking powder1 and make into a very light dough with the milk2 turn on to a floured board1 knead for a few minutes1 roll out about half an inch thick4 ,cut into shapes1 put on to a floured tin1 and bake in a quick oven for about ten minutes4 ,serve either hot or cold4 ,,scones--,no4 #b 99 #a lb4 ,flour--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,sour ,milk 99 99 #c teaspoonsful ,baking ,powder 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,salt--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ca_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,mix the flour1 baking powder1 and salt together1 mix into a very light dough with the milk1 adding a little more milk if necessary2 turn on to a floured board and knead till smooth1 roll out half an inch thick4 ,cut into small rounds and bake for about five minutes4 ,,scones--,no4 #c 99 #a lb4 ,flour--#b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,dripping 99 99 #a oz4 ,sugar 99 99 #a_/b pint ,sour ,milk 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,cream of ,tartar 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,carbonate of ,soda--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ca_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#bj ,minutes4 99 ,rub the dripping into the flour2 stir in the sugar1 cream of tartar1 and soda4 ,mix into a very light dough with the milk1 turn on to a floured board2 divide into two parts4 ,flatten these out into two cakes1 divide each one into four pieces1 brush over with milk4 ,put on to a floured tin and bake in a hot oven from fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,,potato ,,fritters 99 ,cold ,potatoes 99 99 #a ,egg 99 99 #b oz4 ,sugar 99 99 ,nutmeg or ,lemon ,peel 99 99 ,hot ,fat 99 99 ,total ,cost--#aa_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,mash up the potatoes very smoothly1 beat in the sugar and a flavouring of nutmeg or grated lemon peel4 ,beat up the egg and pour over the potatoes and mix into a paste2 form into small round cakes4 ,fry in very hot fat till brown2 pile high on a dish1 sprinkle with sugar and serve4 ,one egg is sufficient for about #a lb41 potatoes4 ,,apple ,,fritters 99 #c ,apples--#b;d4 99 99 ,frying ,batter--#a;d4 99 99 ,hot ,fat 99 99 ,sugar 99 99 ,lemon--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,peel and slice up the apples into rounds1 take out the core with a small round cutter4 ,make frying batter by directions given elsewhere1 and flavour with lemon juice4 ,dip in the pieces of apple1 plunge into plenty of hot fat1 and fry till a good colour4 ,drain on kitchen paper1 pile high on a dish1 and sprinkle well with sugar2 serve very hot4 ,,sweet ,,omelet 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b oz4 ,butter--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,jam--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,sugar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ca_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,put the yolks of the eggs into a basin and beat in half the sugar1 put the whites on to a plate with a little sugar1 and whip till stiff2 mix with the yolks4 ,put the butter into a small frying-pan1 and when it is dissolved pour in the mixture2 leave over the fire for about three minutes4 ,then hold the pan in front of the fire for a minute or two to brown the top4 ,put the jam on to a hot plate1 slip the omelet on the top2 serve at once4 ,,tapioca ,,meringue 99 #a pint ,milk--#b;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,tapioca--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,sugar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,whites of #b ,eggs--#a;d4 99 99 ,flavouring--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,beef ,suet--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours4 99 ,wash the tapioca well in cold water1 strain off the water1 and put it into a pie dish4 ,chop the suet very finely and mix it in with the sugar2 flavour with grated lemon peel or nutmeg1 pour over the milk and mix well1 stand in a very cool oven for two hours4 ,whip the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth1 flavour the same as the pudding1 spread these on top1 sprinkle with sugar1 and stand in the oven till set2 serve cold4 ,this meringue is very much improved if a few macaroons are broken up and laid on the top before the eggs are put on1 or if a spoonful of raspberry jam is spread over4 ,,hasty ,,pudding 99 #a pint ,milk--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 #c oz4 ,flour 99 99 #b oz4 ,sugar--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,put the milk on the fire to boil1 and when boiling stir in the flour quickly2 it should be rather lumpy4 ,pour it into a dish1 melt the butter and sugar1 and pour it in the middle of the pudding4 ,a little flavouring of grated lemon peel may be put into the milk1 or jam served with the pudding4 ,,quick ,,pudding 99 #a ,egg 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,flour--#a;d4 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,jam 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,sugar 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,baking ,powder--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,mix the flour and baking powder together1 beat the egg till very light1 whisk in the sugar1 and stir in the flour4 ,pour into a buttered tin1 and bake five minutes2 turn on to a sugared paper spread with jam4 ,roll up and serve4 ,custard sauce is nice with this4 ,,stanley ,,pudding 99 #a pint ,milk 99 99 #b oz4 ,flour--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,sugar--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs--#b;d4 99 99 #b spoonful ,jam--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,put the milk into a saucepan1 mix the flour with a little cold milk2 and when the milk in the saucepan is nearly boiling1 stir it in1 and let it boil up4 ,pour into a basin and beat in the yolks of the eggs and the sugar2 turn into a pie dish and bake till firm4 ,spread a spoonful of jam on the top2 whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and spread them over1 sprinkle with sugar1 and put back in the oven to set4 ,serve cold4 ,,imitation ,,omelet 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b gill ,milk--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,sugar 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,jam 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,flour--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,beat the yolk and white of egg separately2 beat the flour and milk together1 and mix in the sugar and yolk of egg4 ,stir in the white1 butter a saucer1 put the jam at the bottom4 ,pour in the mixture1 bake in the oven for five minutes1 sprinkle with sugar1 and serve4 ,,oxfordshire ,,pudding 99 #a pint ,milk--#b;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,rice--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,sugar 99 99 ,rind of ,half a ,lemon--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#c;d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours4 99 ,wash the rice well1 strain off the water and put it into a pie-dish4 ,mix in the sugar and the rind of the lemon2 pour over the milk1 and let it sand for half an hour4 ,put it into a very slow oven1 and bake till firm4 ,this is a very delicious pudding if properly made2 it should be firm1 but not dry4 ,,milk ,,biscuits 99 #a_/b lb4 ,flour--#a;d4 99 99 #a gill ,milk--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter 99 99 #a_/d saltspoonful ,salt--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes4 99 ,rub the butter into the flour1 sprinkle in the salt1 and make into a dough with the milk2 knead till smooth1 roll out very thin4 ,cut into small rounds1 prick well with a fork1 put on to a floured tin and bake for about ten minutes4 ,they should not get brown4 ,,soda ,,cake 99 #a lb4 ,flour--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,currants--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,sugar--#a;d4 99 99 #f oz4 ,dripping 99 99 #a #a_/b teaspoonsful ,carbonate of ,soda 99 99 #a_/b pint ,milk--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours4 99 ,rub the dripping and the flour together2 clean and stir in the currants and sugar4 ,stir in the soda and mix into a dough with the milk1 beat for a few minutes4 ,pour into a tin which has been well rubbed with dripping1 bake in a moderate oven for two hours4 ,,digestive ,,biscuits 99 #a_/b lb4 ,brown ,meal 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,flour--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b gills ,water 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter or ,lard 99 99 #a oz4 ,sugar--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ba_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,mix the meal and flour together1 rub in the butter or lard and the sugar2 mix into a dry paste with water1 knead till smooth4 ,roll out very thin1 cut into rounds1 and bake in rather a slow oven4 ,,lemon ,,pudding 99 #a_/b lb4 ,flour--#a;d4 99 99 #c oz4 ,suet--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,lemons--#a;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,sugar 99 99 #a_/b gill ,water--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#da_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours4 99 ,sift the flour1 chop the suet finely1 and mix together4 ,stir in the sugar and the grated rind of the lemons1 beat up the egg1 add the juice of one lemon1 and mix the pudding into a dough with this1 and a little water if required4 ,dip a cloth in boiling water1 tie the pudding in it2 plunge into boiling water and boil two hours4 ,take out of the cloth and turn on to a hot dish1 and pour round it the following sauce3 ,squeeze the juice of the other lemon into a small saucepan1 stir in some sugar and a gill of water1 and boil up2 it is then ready4 ,,black ,,cap ,,pudding 99 #a pint ,milk--#b;d4 99 99 #b ,eggs 99 99 #a oz4 ,currants--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b lb4 ,flour--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour4 99 ,put the eggs into a basin1 beat in the flour1 and then the milk1 pour into a battered basin4 ,clean the currents and drop them in2 steam for one hour1 turn out of the basin1 sprinkle with sugar1 and serve4 ,,rock ,,cakes 99 #a_/b lb4 ,flour 99 99 #b oz4 ,dripping--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,sugar--#a;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,currants--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,peel--#a;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,baking ,powder--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#ae ,minutes4 99 ,rub the dripping and flour together1 stir in the sugar1 currants 7well cleaned71 the baking powder1 and the peel4 ,beat up the egg and pour it in1 and make into a very stiff dough2 take up in rough pieces and lay on a greased tin1 bake in rather a quick oven for fifteen minutes4 ,,kingswood ,,pudding 99 #a_/d lb4 ,flour--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,bread ,crumbs--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,raisins--#b;d4 99 99 #f oz4 ,suet--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,sultanas--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,sugar--#a;d4 99 99 #b ,apples--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#i;d4 99 99 ,time--,six ,hours4 99 ,mix the flour and bread crumbs together4 ,any dry pieces of bread will do if put through the sausage machine2 shred the suet finely and mix it in with the sugar4 ,stone the raisins and pull them in half1 and clean the sultanas2 mix these in4 ,peel and core the apples2 put in the pips1 chop the apples finely1 and add them4 ,let it stand for an hour1 and then mix it into a paste2 the juice from the applies and the sugar will be found sufficient4 ,press into a basin1 tie down tightly1 and boil at least six hours4 ,this will be found an excellent pudding if well boiled4 ,,delhi ,,pudding 99 #a pint ,milk--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,almonds--#a;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,sugar 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,arrowroot--#b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,blanch and chop the almonds very small1 mix them with the sugar and arrowroot4 ,put the milk on to boil1 and when it boils pour it on to the arrowroot and stir2 if it does not get thick enough1 pour back into the saucepan and boil for a minute4 ,turn into a wet mould and stand away till firm2 then turn out and serve with jam or custard sauce1 or it may be served plainly4 ,,rothsay ,,pudding 99 #a_/d lb4 ,flour--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,bread ,crumbs--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,suet--#a;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,sugar 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,vinegar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a gill ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,raspberry ,jam--#b;d4 99 99 #a ,egg 99 99 #a_/b teaspoonful ,carbonate of ,soda--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours4 99 ,mix the flour1 crumbs1 finely chopped suet1 and sugar in a basin1 then stir in the jam4 ,beat up the egg and milk1 and stir it in4 ,mix up the carbonate of soda and the vinegar together2 beat it in1 and when well mixed pour it into a buttered basin4 ,tie up carefully1 and boil for two hours2 turn out on to a hot dish1 and serve either with sifted sugar or custard sauce4 ,,rhubarb ,,mould 99 #a bundle ,rhubarb--#c;d4 99 99 #f oz4 ,sugar--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a_/d lb4 ,sago 99 99 #a_/b pint ,water--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#f;d4 99 99 ,time--#bj ,minutes 99 ,wipe and cut up the rhubarb and put it on to boil with one gill water1 and boil for about ten minutes4 ,wash the sago and soak it in one gill warm water1 then add to the rhubarb4 ,stir in also the sugar1 and boil for about ten minutes or longer1 stirring constantly4 ,pour into a basin or mould which has been dipped in cold water1 and stand away till cold and firm1 then turn out and serve4 ,a little boiled custard is a great improvement to this dish4 ,,apples ,,and ,,rice 99 #c ,large ,apples--#b;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,rice--#a;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,sugar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,jam--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#fa_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,half an ,hour4 99 ,peel the apples and scoop out the core and fill in with jam2 put into a pie-dish and bake till the apples are soft4 ,while they are baking1 boil the rice and milk together till the rice is soft and the milk absorbed4 ,beat in the egg and sugar1 pour over the apples2 brush over with milk1 and bake till a nice colour4 ,serve either hot or cold4 ,,rice ,,blacmange 99 #a pint ,milk--#b;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b oz4 ,ground ,rice--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,sugar 99 99 ,flavouring--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ca_/b d4 99 99 ,time--#e ,minutes4 99 ,put the milk on to boil with a strip of lemon peel in it2 when nearly boiling mix the rice in a spoonful of cold water and pour it in4 ,stir till it boils1 and let it boil two or three minutes2 pour into a mould which has been dipped in cold water1 and stand away till firm4 ,turn out when cold1 and serve with jam1 stewed fruit1 or custard sauce4 ,,devonshire ,,junket 99 #a quart ,milk--#d;d4 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,rennet 99 99 #a oz4 ,sugar--#a;d4 99 99 ,nutmeg--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#ea_/b d4 99 99 ,time--,two ,hours4 99 ,make the milk tepid1 stir in the sugar and a spoonful of rennet or a rennet tablet2 pour into a dish and stand on the stove till solid4 ,grate a little nutmeg on top and serve cold4 ,rennet can be bought at the chemist's ready for use2 but rennet tables1 which answer very nicely1 can be used instead4 ,these can be bought in many places1 and keep good a long time4 ,,banbury ,,cakes 99 #a_/b lb4 ,pastry--#e;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,currants 99 99 #a oz4 ,raisins 99 99 ,half a ,lemon 99 99 ,half an ,orange--#b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,cake or ,bread ,crumbs--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,sugar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#h;d4 99 99 ,time--#bj ,minutes4 99 ,stone the raisins and chop them lightly1 put them into a basin with the currants cleaned1 the sugar1 and the cake or bread crumbs4 ,mix together1 grate over the rind of half a lemon1 and half an orange4 ,strain in the juice1 and let it stand for an hour4 ,roll out the pastry and cut into rounds about three inches long4 ,lay a little of the mixture in the centre1 close over the pastry1 turn the cake over1 flatten it out in the middle4 ,brush over with sugar1 and bake in rather a quick oven4 ,serve warm4 ,,lemon ,,biscuits 99 #a_/b lb4 ,flour 99 99 #c oz4 ,dripping--#a;d4 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,baking ,powder 99 99 #c oz4 ,sugar--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,lemon--#a;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#d;d4 99 99 ,time--#aj ,minutes4 99 ,rub the dripping into the flour1 stir in the sugar and baking powder1 and grate over the rind of the lemon4 ,beat up the egg and strain in the lemon juice2 add these to the dry ingredients1 mix into a stiff dough1 and knead for a few minutes4 ,roll out1 cut into small biscuits1 and bake in a quick oven for about ten minutes4 ,,yorkshire ,,tea ,,cakes 99 #c_/d lb4 ,flour--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #a #a_/b gills ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #a tablespoonful ,yeast 99 99 #a_/b tablespoonful ,sugar--#a_/b;d4 99 99 #a oz4 ,butter--#a;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#e;d4 99 99 ,time--,one ,hour and a ,quarter 99 ,rub the butter and flour together1 make a well in the centre1 sprinkle in the sugar1 and drop in the egg4 ,mix the yeast and sugar in a basin1 make the milk just tepid1 and pour it over the yeast4 ,strain into the flour and egg and work into a light dough1 divide into two parts4 ,rub a little butter over two small tins1 and put one cake in each tin4 ,cover with thin paper1 and stand the tins near the stove for an hour1 or until they have risen to at least three times their original size2 then bake in a quick oven for fifteen minutes4 ,serve either plain1 or toasted and buttered4 ,,tea ,,cake 99 #a lb4 ,flour--#b;d4 99 99 #a_/b pint ,milk--#a;d4 99 99 #b oz4 ,butter--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 #a ,egg--#a;d4 99 99 #b teaspoonsful ,baking ,powder 99 99 #a teaspoonful ,sugar--#a #a_/b;d4 99 99 ,total ,cost--#g;d4 99 99 ,time--#bj ,minutes4 99 ,rub the butter into the flour1 stir in the sugar and baking powder4 ,beat up the egg and milk1 and mix the dry ingredients into a dough with them2 divide into two pieces and form each into a flat cake4 ,cut lightly across into four with a knife1 put on to a buttered tin1 and bake twenty minutes4 ,cut open1 butter1 and serve4