,transcrib]'s ,note3 ,italic text is d5ot$ by und]scores & bold text by tildes4 ,,fur ,,dye+ ,,& ,,fur ,,dress+ ,,pr9ciples ,,& ,,practice ,,( ,,fur ,,dress+ ,,& ,,fur ,,dye+ ,,by ,,william ,e4 ,,au/91 ,b4,s4 ,,consult+ ,,*emi/ ,,to ,,! ,,fur ,,indu/ry ,,illu/rat$ ,illu/ration ,,new ,,york ,d4 ,,van ,,no/r& ,,company ,,eight ,,w>r5 ,,/reet #aibb ,copyright1 #aibb1 by ,d4 ,,van ,,no/r& ,,company ,all rights res]v$1 includ+ t ( translation into =eign languages1 includ+ ! ,sc&9avian ,,pr9t$ ,,9 ,,! ,,unit$ ,,/ates ,,( ,,am]ica ,,preface ,! great increase 9 ! use ( furs dur+ ! pa/ few decades has caus$ ! fur dress+ & dye+ indu/ry to rise f relative insignificance to consid]able importance z a bran* ( appli$ *emi/ry4 ,! pa/ eight ye>s1 moreov]1 h witness$ ! virtual transf]5ce ( ! lead]%ip 9 ! dress+ & dye+ ( furs f ,europe to ,am]ica1 & 9 ! quality & v>iety ( products1 ! dome/ic indu/ry is n[ 9 e way ! equal (1 & 9 _m respects sup]ior to ! =eign4 ,! great bulk ( ,am]ican furs :i* =m]ly 7 s5t to ,leipzig1 ,p>is or ,london to be dress$ & dy$1 are n[ be+ dress$ & dy$ 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,9 spite ( ^! facts1 v little is g5]ally kn[n ab\t ! nature & mann] ( ! "w con/itut+ ! dress+ & dye+ ( furs4 ,ev5 among memb]s ( o!r bran*es ( ! fur trade1 !re is v little accurate in=mation on ! subject4 ,real k conc]n+ fur dress+ & dye+ is possess$ only by ^? actually engag$ 9 ! indu/ry4 ,! int]e/ & ef=ts ( sci5ti/s & te*nologi/s h be5 enli/$ to only a small ext5t 9 ! te*nical developm5t ( ! indu/ry4 ,! reason = ?is may be attribut$ to two relat$ causes3 fir/1 ! almo/ mona/ic seclusion 9 :i* fur dress]s & dy]s1 p>ticul>ly ! latt]1 conduct$ _! op]ations1 & ev5 to-day ! heavy cl\d ( my/]y is be+ dispell$ b v sl[ly2 & second1 z a consequ5ce ( ! fir/1 ! lack ( any reliable lit]ature on ! subject4 ,( ! few books :i* h be5 writt5 on ! indu/ry ( fur dress+ & fur dye+ 7all ( !m ei!r ,g]man or ,fr5*71 mo/ are hopelessly out ( date1 or conta9 no tru/wor?y data2 or1 if !y d h real m]it1 !y _c be obta9$4 ,num]\s articles 9 ! te*nical j\rnals are ( int]e/1 b !y conta9 v little in=mation ( value4 ,?is "w is int5d$ = a two-fold purpose3 fir/1 t x may s]ve z a text-book = ^? :o expect to make fur dress+ & dye+ _! vocation4 ,! fundam5tal pr9ciples ^u :i* ! indu/ry is bas$ are discuss$ 9 ! light ( ! mo/ rec5t *emical & te*nical developm5ts1 & ! mo/ important op]ations are treat$ fully & sy/ematically1 & are illu/rat$ ) practical examples4 ,secondly1 z a practical h&book = ! work] 9 ! fur dress+ & dye+ plant4 ,! late/ factory processes & me?ods are describ$1 & num]\s work+ =mulas giv54 ,! =mulas are all su* z h be5 successfully us$ on a l>ge scale1 & give satisfactory results :5 appli$ "u ! prop] conditions4 ,9 addition1 x is believ$ t ! book w prove ( int]e/ to *emi/s & o!r /ud5ts ( indu/rial *emi/ry1 s9ce x w be an introduction into a field ( appli$ *emi/ry1 ab\t :i* v little is kn[n to ^? outside ( ! indu/ry4 ,?anks are due to ,dr4 ,l4 ,a4 ,hausman1 ( ,cornell ,univ]sity1 = mat]ial us$ 9 ,*apt] ,,ii2 to ,dr4 ,e4 ,less] ( ! ,am]ican ,dyewood ,company1 = in=mation & assi/ance on ! subject ( ,vegetable ,dyes2 to ! ,gaskill ,*emical ,corp41 ,am]ican ,anil9e ,products1 ,inc41 ! ,cassella ,company1 & ! ,frankl9 ,import ,export ,co41 = in=mation ab\t _! products 9 connection ) ! *apt] on ,oxidation ,colors2 to ,f4 ,blattn]1 ,flet*] ,works1 ,inc41 ,s4 ,m4 ,jacoby ,co41 ,proctor ,s*w>tz1 ,inc41 ,reliable ,ma*9e ,works1 ,s5eca ,ma*9e ,tool ,co41 ,inc41 & ! ,turn] ,tann+ ,ma*9]y ,co41 = ! use ( ! cuts ( ! v>i\s ma*9es4 ,,william ,e4 ,,au/94 ,,new ,,york1 ,may1 #aibb4 ,,table ,,( ,,cont5ts ,,*apt] ,,page ,,preface ,i4 ,,furs ,,& ,,_! ,,*>act]i/ics #a ,introductory4 ,k ( furs ess5tial4 ,def9itions4 ,diff]5ces 9 furs ( v>i\s animals4 ,effect ( climate on furs4 ,effect ( age & season on furs4 ,durability & relative weights ( furs4 ,description ( important furs4 ,,ii4 ,,/ructure ,,( ,,fur #ba ,! sk94 ,! hair4 ,"u-hair & top-hair4 ,*emical composition ( furs4 ,action ( *emicals on ! sk94 ,action ( *emicals on ! hair4 ,,iii4 ,,fur ,,dress+3 ,,introductory ,,& ,,hi/orical #bi ,objects ( fur dress+4 ,orig9 ( fur dress+4 ,use ( fats4 ,use ( salt & alum4 ,use ( ! tann9s4 ,e>ly organizations ( ! fur work]s4 ,mod]n organizations ( ! fur dress+ indu/ry4 ,,iv4 ,,fur ,,dress+3 ,,prelim9>y ,,op]ations #cf ,flat sk9s & cas$ sk9s4 ,h]bivor\s & c>nivor\s fur animals4 ,beam+ or scrap+4 ,s(t5+ ! sk9s4 ,clean+2 hydro-extract+4 ,fle%+4 ,v4 ,,fur ,,dress+3 ,,tann+ ,,me?ods #de ,nature ( ! tann+ process4 ,*ief tann+ me?ods4 ,comp>ison ( ! tann+ me?ods4 ,effect ( dye+ op]ations on ! dress+4 ,,vi4 ,,fur ,,dress+3 ,,dry+ ,,& ,,f9i%+ #ga ,importance ( ! dry+ process4 ,me?ods ( dry+4 ,a mod]n type ( dry+ device4 ,oil+4 ,/ak+ or /ret*+4 ,beat+ & comb+4 ,drum-clean+4 ,unhair+ & %e>+4 ,,vii4 ,,wat] ,,9 ,,fur ,,dress+ ,,& ,,dye+ #he ,importance ( wat] 9 dress+ & dye+4 ,wat] suitable = dress+ & dye+4 ,s(t wat] & h>d wat]4 ,effects ( h>dness 9 wat]4 ,,viii4 ,,fur ,,dye+3 ,,introductory ,,& ,,hi/orical #ij ,purposes ( fur dye+4 ,improvem5t ( furs faulty 9 color4 ,production ( a uni=m %ade on furs4 ,dye+ furs to obta9 novel effects4 ,imitation ( valuable furs on *eap] sk9s4 ,difficulties due to ! hair4 ,difficulties due to ! lea!r4 ,,ix4 ,,fur ,,dye+3 ,,g5]al ,,me?ods #ih ,two me?ods ( dye+ furs4 ,developm5t ( ! dye+ me?ods4 ,! bru% process4 ,! dip process4 ,bl5d+4 ,dry+ & f9i%+ ! dy$ furs4 ,x4 ,,fur ,,dye+3 ,,kill+ ,,! ,,furs #ajf ,nature ( ! kill+ process4 ,old kill+ =mulas4 ,mod]n kill+ ag5ts4 ,proc$ure ( kill+4 ,kill+ ) soda4 ,kill+ ) lime4 ,kill+ ) cau/ic soda4 ,,xi4 ,,fur ,,dye+3 ,,mordants #aad ,nature ( mordant+4 ,purposes ( mordant+4 ,!ory ( mordants4 ,proc$ure ( mordant+4 ,alum9um mordants4 ,iron mordants4 ,copp] mordants4 ,*romium mordants4 ,t9 mordants4 ,alkal9e mordants4 ,,xii4 ,,fur ,,dye+3 ,,m9]al ,,colors ,,us$ ,,on ,,furs #abe ,m9]al *emicals z fur dyes4 ,lead dyes4 ,potassium p]manganate z a dye4 ,o!r m9]al dyes4 ,,xiii4 ,,fur ,,dye+3 ,,vegetable ,,dyes #abh ,wood dyes4 ,old dye =mulas4 ,! vegetable dye mat]ials4 ,! tann9 sub/ances4 ,logwood4 ,fu/ic4 ,brazilwood4 ,o!r vegetable dyes4 ,*>act]i/ics ( ! wood dyes4 ,application ( ! vegetable dyes4 ,application by ! bru% process4 ,application by ! dip process4 ,production ( %ades o!r ?an black4 ,,xiv4 ,,fur ,,dye+3 ,,anil9e ,,black #add ,dye+ ( seal4 ,nature & hi/ory ( ,anil9e ,black4 ,*emi/ry ( ! ,anil9e ,black process4 ,?ree /ages 9 ! =mation ( ,anil9e ,black4 ,me?ods ( apply+ ,anil9e ,black4 ,"o-ba? ,anil9e ,black4 ,oxidation ,anil9e ,black4 ,diph5yl ,black4 ,anil9e ,black by ,gre5's process4 ,anil9e ,black by ! dip me?od4 ,,xv4 ,,fur ,,dye+3 ,,oxidation ,,colors #aee ,! orig9al pat5ts4 ,! fir/ ,oxidation fur dyes4 ,e>ly difficulties4 ,solution ( ! difficulties4 ,progress ) ! ,oxidation dyes4 ,p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e3 a typical ,oxidation color4 ,range ( %ades obta9able4 ,mordants4 ,proc$ure 9 dye+4 ,typical =mulas4 ,comb9ation ( ,oxidation colors ) o!r dyes4 ,,xvi4 ,,fur ,,dye+3 ,,coal ,,t> ,,dyes #aga ,use ( coal t> dyes4 ,basic colors4 ,acid colors2 dye+ at high] temp]atures4 ,*rome colors4 ,vat dyes4 ,,xvii4 ,,blea*+ ,,( ,,furs #agi ,purpose ( blea*+4 ,/eps 9 ! blea*+ process4 ,me?ods ( blea*+4 ,blea*+ mat]ials ) r$uc+ action4 ,blea*+ mat]ials ) oxidiz+ action4 ,blue+4 ,,bibliography #ahe ,,fur ,,dress+ ,,& ,,fur ,,dye+ ,,*apt] ,i ,,furs ,,& ,,_! ,,*>act]i/ics ,furs h 9 g5]al two uses3 z ! goods :i* con/itute ! basis ( ! furri]'s art1 & z ! s\rce ( mat]ial = ! hat manufactur]4 ,9 ! latt] case1 only ! hair "p ( ! fur is utiliz$ 9 ! hat trade = ! production ( felt1 ! sk9 be+ ei!r made into lea!r1 or us$ z ! raw mat]ial = mak+ high-grade glue & gelat9e4 ,x is ! furri]1 !re=e1 :o uses ! great bulk ( furs1 & requires !m to be dress$ & dy$4 ,9 discuss+ ! dress+ & ! dye+ ( furs1 !re are1 broadly speak+1 two fundam5tal subjects to be consid]$3 fir/1 ! raw mat]ials employ$1 :i* are1 ( c\rse1 ! sk9s or pelts z !y come f ! trapp]4 7,o!r sub/ances us$ 9 fur dress+ & dye+ are accessories1 & w be /udi$ 9 connection ) ! processes47 ,second1 all ^? op]ations1 physical & *emical1 manual & me*anical1 to :i* ! raw sk9s h to be subject$ 9 ord] to obta9 ! f9i%$ fur1 ready = use by ! furri]4 ,next to ! inh]5t qualities ( ! fur sk91 ! future value ( a fur 9 a manufactur$ g>m5t dep5ds l>gely on ! dress+ & dye+ x receives4 ,x is 9 ^! op]ations t ! beauty ( ! fur c be br\ght out to its fulle/ degree1 & if possible1 enhanc$1 or ! attractive features c be m>r$ or de/roy$1 & ! fur r5d]$ q wor?less4 ,!re=e1 x is q ess5tial = ! fur dress] & ! fur dy] 9 addition to ! te*nical k & exp]i5ce :i* are ! fundam5tal requisites ( ! indu/ry1 also to h m ?an a sup]ficial famili>ity ) ! v>i\s k9ds ( furs4 ,9 fact1 an accurate k ( ! nature & *ief *>act]i/ics ( furs 9 g5]al1 & ( ! individual classes1 9 p>ticul>1 is almo/ indisp5sable to obta9 ! be/ results4 ,! habits & habitats ( ! v>i\s fur-be>+ animals are factors :i* l>gely det]m9e ! con/itution ( ! fur1 & ! nature ( ! sk94 ,!re are z _m diff]5t k9ds ( fur hair1 ) z _m diff]5t k9ds ( sk9 be>+ ! hair1 z !re are classes ( furs4 ,! me?ods ( dress+1 & (t51 if ! furs are to be dy$1 ! mann] ( dye+1 are det]m9$ by ! nature ( ^! compon5t p>ts ( furs4 ,v>i\s *emicals affect furs 9 widely diff]5t ways4 ,! div]g5ce ) reg>d to ! physical & *emical prop]ties ( ! classes ( furs is su* z to make almo/ imp]ative a detail$ k ( ! typical memb]s ( ! _m gr\ps ( comm]cial furs4 ,to be sure1 !re are _m engag$ 9 ! dress+ & dye+ ( furs1 :o nev] made a =mal /udy ( ?is phase ( ! indu/ry1 b acquir$ _! k empirically1 & are app>5tly q successful4 ,x mu/ n be d5i$1 t practise & exp]i5ce1 z 9 e field ( ent]prise1 are ess5tial to obta9+ ! be/ results4 ,b ! "t & co/ ( acquir+ ?is preci\s exp]i5ce c be consid]ably r$uc$ by sy/ematically /udy+ ! important *>act]i/ics & prop]ties ( furs4 ,^! w be treat$ briefly1 b 9 suffici5t detail to =m a basis = discuss+ ! op]ations ( dress+ & dye+4 ,fur-be>+ animals are mammals ^: sk9s are us$ 9 ! manufacture ( fur g>m5ts & o!r fur we>+ app>el4 ,! sk91 :5 x is remov$ f ! animal is call$ a pelt1 or sometimes1 9 ! case ( l>ge animals1 a hide4 ,! pelt1 aft] hav+ be5 dress$ & dy$1 is call$ a fur1 ! sk9 "p be+ ref]r$ to z ! lea!r1 & ! hair z ! pelage4 ,h[ev]1 ?is t]m9ology is n /rictly adh]$ to 9 practise1 & ! v>i\s t]ms are (t5 employ$ int]*angeably4 ,! v>i\s fur-be>+ animals diff] consid]ably 9 ! *>act]i/ics ( ! furs !y yield4 ,) few exceptions1 notably beav] & ,alaska r$ fox1 ! dep? ( %ade increases z ! habitat ( ! animal species is ne>] ! equatorial regions4 ,!re seems to be a direct relation%ip betwe5 ! int5sity ( color ( ! pelt1 & ! di/ance f1 or proximity to ! pol>1 or ! torrid regions4 ,?us1 :ite mammals1 su* z pol> be>1 erm9e1 :ite or ,sib]ian h>e1 are f\nd only 9 ! nor!rn l&s4 ,an exception is ! %eep1 :i*1 due to its dome/ic nature1 c be f\nd 9 almo/ all p>ts ( ! civiliz$ _w4 ,tropical animals on transportation to cold] climates1 h be5 kn[n to become light]-hair$ :5 adapt$ to _! new environm5t4 ,! sk9s ( animals liv+ 9 d5se woods or =e/s1 are g5]ally ( a deep] color ?an 9 animals liv+ 9 m op5 t]ritory4 ,z a g5]al rule1 fur-be>+ animals h d>k] hair on ! back ?an on ! sides & belly4 ,! badg]1 ham/]1 ratel & p&a are exceptions hav+ ! d>k] hair on ! belly & sides1 & ! light] hair on ! back4 ,) reg>d to ! int5sity ( color1 ! skunk has ! blacke/ fur1 al?\gh "s dome/ic cats are also q black4 ,o!r animals ^: fur is ne>ly black1 are ! black be>1 & ! black fox1 :i* is a v>iety ( ! silv] fox1 b ! color is (t5 ( a br[ni% %ade4 ,! colors :i* pr$om9ate among animals ( ! fur-be>+ v>iety1 are :ite1 black1 br[n1 & grey4 ,less common are yell[ %ades1 & ^? kn[n z blue4 ,! quality ( ! fur on all mammals improves ) cold1 & animals liv+ at great] altitudes1 ) correspond+ly l[] temp]atures1 h ?ick] & f9] hair ?an ^? liv+ ne>] sea-level4 ,a cold w9t] g5]ally produces fur ( high quality & f9e color1 a mild w9t] may cause ! hair to be inf]ior4 ,9 all climates1 animals f\nd 9 d5se woods1 h fur :i* is deep]1 silki]1 ?ick]1 & glossi] ?an t ( animals liv+ 9 ! op54 ,animals inhabit+ inl& lakes & riv]s1 h f9] & s(t] hair ?an ^? liv+ ne> ! coa/ or l& expos$ to sea w9ds4 ,9 g5]al1 ! hair ( animals ( ! cold regions is %ort1 f9e1 s(t1 & d[ny1 :ile ! hair ( animals ( w>m] l&s1 is long]1 /iff]1 & h>d]4 ,bo? ! quality & color ( ! fur v>y ) ! age ( ! animal4 ,! "y usually h a ?ick] coat ( fur ?an adults1 b ! hair is too s(t1 & ! sk9 g5]ally too t5d] to be fit = use4 ,9 c]ta9 cases1 p>ticul>ly ! baby lambs1 v "y sk9s are especially priz$1 & eag]ly s\ght1 b extraord9>y c>e has to be ex]cis$ 9 work+ ) !m4 ,fur is at its be/ :5 ! animal is betwe5 "o & two ye>s old4 ,aft] ?is age1 ! fur becomes co>se & scraggy4 ,! animal atta9s its fulle/ gr[? ( hair usually 9 ! height ( w9t]1 & ! fur is be/ betwe5 !n & v e>ly spr+4 ,be=e mid-w9t] ! hair is %ort & ?91 & 9 ! spr+ x beg9s to %$1 & w cont9ue to fall out ev5 9 ! dress$ fur4 ,! color ( ! hair also becomes light] ) age1 & ! new gr[? :i* g5]ally comes 9 ! fall is d>k] ?an ! old coat4 ,diff]5t memb]s ( ! same species1 w1 o!r factors su* z age & season be+ equal1 v>y z to color & quality4 ,!re may ev5 be sev]al diff]5t color phases ( ! same species ( animal1 su* z ! cross fox & ! silv] fox1 bo? ( :i* are ( ! same g5us z ! r$ fox2 black muskrats are ( ! same class z ! br[n v>iety1 etc4 ,! individual pelt likewise pres5ts _m v>iations 9 color & nature ( ! hair4 ,9 "s p>ts1 ! hair is ?ick] & s(t] ?an o!rs1 & ! color v>ies 9 int5sity & %ade ?r\gh\t ! diff]5t sections ( ! sk94 ,furs d n h diff]5ces conf9$ to ! hair "p only2 ! lea!r also pres5ts consid]able v>iation among ! diff]5t fur-be>+ animals1 especially 9 reg>d to ! weight & ?ickness4 ,! durability ( furs1 relatively consid]$ "u simil> conditions ( we>1 also v>ies widely4 ,9 ! foll[+ table ! relative durability ( dress$ furs1 & 9 c]ta9 in/ances also dy$ furs1 ott] be+ tak5 z /&>d1 is giv51 z well z ! weight 9 ounces p] squ>e foot ( sk9 ( ^! furs4 ,"n ( ,fur ,durability ,wt4 9 oz4 ,ott] #ajj p] sq4 ft4 ,a/ra*an #aj #c ,be>1 br[n or black #id #g ,beav]1 natural #ij #d ,beav]1 pluck$ #he #c-g_/h ,*9*illa #ae #a-a_/b ,civet cat #dj #b-c_/d ,coney #bj #c ,erm9e #be #a-a_/d ,fox1 natural #dj #c ,fox1 dy$ black #be #c ,g5et #ce #b-c_/d ,goat #ae #d-a_/h ,h>e #je #b-a_/d ,krimm] #fj #c ,kol9sky #be #c ,leop>d #ge #d ,lynx #be #b-c_/d ,m>t51 ,baum natural #fe #b-c_/d ,m>t51 ,baum bl5d$ #de #b-c_/d ,m>t51 ,/one natural #de #b-g_/h ,m>t51 ,/one dy$ #ce #b-g_/h ,m9k1 natural #gj #c-a_/d ,m9k1 dy$ #ce #c-a_/d ,m9k1 ,jap #bj #c ,mole #jg #a-c_/d ,muskrat #de #c-a_/d ,nutria1 pluck$ #be #c-a_/d ,opossum1 natural #cg #c ,opossum1 dy$ #bj #c ,opossum1 ,au/ralian #dj #c-a_/b ,ott]1 l& #ajj #d-a_/b ,ott]1 sea #ajj #d-a_/b ,p]sian lamb #fe #c-a_/d ,pony1 ,russian #ce #c-a_/b ,rabbit #je #b-a_/d ,raccoon1 natural #fe #b-a_/d ,raccoon1 dy$ #ej #b-a_/b ,sable #fj #b-a_/b ,sable1 bl5d$ #de #b-a_/b ,seal1 fur #hj #c-a_/b ,seal1 fur dy$ #gj #c-a_/h ,skunk1 tipp$ #ej #b-g_/h ,squirrel1 grey #bj-be #a-c_/d ,wolf1 natural #ej #f-a_/b ,wolv]9e #ajj #g ,9 e/imat+ ! value ( a fur1 _m factors h to be consid]$4 ,!re is no "o /&>d by :i* ! sk9s are judg$1 ea* k9d ( fur hav+ its own crit]ion4 ,h[ev]1 ! g5]al po9ts by :i* raw furs are grad$ are1 color1 size1 orig91 quality & quantity ( hair1 condition ( lea!r1 date or season ( trapp+1 me?ods ( h&l+1 etc4 ,beav]1 = example1 is grad$ z l>ge1 m$ium1 small & cubs4 ,r$ foxes1 fir/1 into ,alaska1 ,labrador1 & ,nova ,scotia1 & !n ^! divisions are class$ z l>ge1 m$ium & small4 ,skunks are grad$ accord+ to ! am\nt ( :ite on ! sk91 ! less :ite1 ! m valuable ! fur4 ,! qualities :i* make a fur desir$ dep5d fir/ ( all on ! nature ( ! fur itself4 ,pretty color1 lu/]1 ?ickness1 s(tness1 l5g?1 uni=mity & regul> fall ( ! hair are ! *ief po9ts to be consid]$4 ,:ile ! lea!r "p ( ! fur is ( second>y importance 9 ! evaluation ( a fur1 x mu/ possess /r5g?1 lightness ( weight1 & :5 prop]ly dress$1 %\ld be supple & h a c]ta9 firmness or #8feel4' ,! abundance or sc>city ( a fur-be>+ animal also det]m9es ! value ( ! fur4 ,furs :i* are always comp>atively r>e1 su* z silv] fox1 ,russian sable1 *9*illa1 etc41 are always highly priz$4 ,9 ?is connection1 circum/ances :i* t5d to decrease ! numb] ( available pelts ( any p>ticul> animal1 su* z pe/il5ces1 gradual ext]m9ation due to excessive trapp+1 prev5tion ( trapp+1 by protective laws1 also affect ! value ( a fur4 ,a ?ird factor :i* has an influ5ce on ! value ( furs1 is ! prevail+ /yle or fa%ion4 ,_m k9ds ( furs :i* are bo? beautiful & r>e1 su* z ,russian sable or *9*illa1 are practically unaffect$ by ! :ims ( fa%ion4 ,b a fur ( ord9>y value may at times become s popul>1 t ! dem& = x w cause its price to be greatly increas$4 ,simil>ly1 a fur :i* has enjoy$ a consid]able vogue1 may pass out ( dem& = a "t & consequ5tly depreciate 9 value4 ,a detail$ description ( ! v>i\s furs us$ 9 comm]ce is n )9 ! scope ( ?is "w1 because su* an acc\nt rightly belongs 9 a book on zology4 ,h[ev]1 x is desirable t ! read] :o is int]e/$ 9 ! dress+ & dye+ ( furs %\ld h at lea/ a pass+ acqua9tance ) ! *ief furs us$ 9 comm]ce1 toge!r ) su* ( _! individual *>act]i/ics z are ( importance4 ,! figures giv5 are = ! av]age dress$ sk94#a #a ,descriptions aft] ,w4 ,s4 ,p>k]1 ,deputy ,*airman1 ,fur ,section ( ,london ,*amb] ( ,comm]ce1 9 ,encyclop$ia ,britannica1 #aa? ,ed4 ,a/ra*an1 see ,lambs4 ,badg]4--#b #a ft4 ,?is is "o ( ! few animals ^: fur is d>k] on ! belly ?an on ! back4 ,! ,am]ican sorts h co>se1 ?ick "u-hair ( a pale fawn or /one color1 ) a gr[? ( long] black & :ite hairs #c-d in*es long4 ,! ,japanese v>ieties are usually dy$ = imitation skunk4 ,! ,am]ican k9d is also dy$ occasionally b is mo/ly us$ natural4 ,badg] hair is v ext5sively us$ = #8po9t+4' ,be>1 ,black4--#f #c ft4 ,has f9e1 d>k br[n "u-hair1 ) bright1 fl[+ black top-hair #d in*es long4 ,! fur ( cubs is ne>ly z long1 al?\gh ! sk9s are mu* small]1 & ! hair is f9]1 s(t]1 & light]-pelt$4 ,! be/ sk9s are f ,canada4 ,be>1 ,br[n4--#f #c ft4 ,simil> to ! ,black ,be>1 b m limit$ 9 numb]4 ,! color ranges f a light yell[ to a ri* d>k br[n4 ,! be/ & mo/ valuable sorts come f ! ,hudson ,bay t]ritory1 inf]ior sk9s com+ f ,europe & ,asia4 ,be>1 ,:ite4--#aj #e ft4 ,?is is ! l>ge/ ( ! be>s4 ,! hair is %ort & close except on ! flanks1 :ile ! color ranges f :ite to yell[4 ,! be/ sk9s come f ,gre5l&1 ! :ite/ be+ ! mo/ valuable4 ,beav]4--#c #b ft4 ,?is is ! l>ge/ ( ! rod5ts1 & is v widely us$2 =m]ly to a great ext5t 9 ! hat trade4 ,! "u-hair is close & ( a blui%-br[n hue1 & ne>ly an in* deep4 ,! ov]-hair is co>se1 bright black or r$di%-br[n 9 color1 & is usually pluck$ out1 z ! "u-hair is ! attractive "p ( ! fur4 ,! d>ke/ sk9s are ! mo/ valuable4 ,=m]ly beav] 0 us$ to dye 9 imitation ( seal1 b m suitable furs are n[ us$4 ,broadtail1 see ,lambs4 ,c>acul1 see ,lambs4 ,cat1 ,civet4--#i #d-a_/b in*es1 ) %ort1 ?ick & d>k "u-hair1 & silky1 black top-hair ) irregul> :ite m>k+s4 ,x is simil> to ! skunk1 b is light]1 s(t]1 less full1 & has no disagreeable odor4 ,cat1 ,h\se4--#ah #i in*es4 ,is mo/ly black & d>k br[n1 ! be/ sk9s com+ f ,holl&4 ,! hair is weak1 com+ out ) ! friction ( we>4 ,9 ! trade1 ! black v>iety is kn[n z g5et4 ,*9*illa4--#ab #g in*es4 ,?is is "o ( ! r>e/ & mo/ beautiful furs4 ,x comes f ,bolivia & ,p]u1 :]e1 due to ! uncontroll$ trapp+ ( ! animal1 x is becom+ sc>ce1 & ?is compell$ ! gov]nm5ts to enact laws prohibit+ ! tak+ ( *9*illa = a c]ta9 p]iod4 ,! fur is ( a delicate blue-grey1 ) black %ad+s1 ! fur be+ #a-a-a_/d in*es deep4 ,un=tunately1 ! sk9 is q p]i%able4 ,*9*illa1 ,la ,plata4--#i #d in*es4 ,incorrectly call$ 8ba/>d *9*illa0 9 ! trade4 ,x is a simil> species to ! ,bolivian *9*illa1 b due to ! l[] altitude & w>m] climate ( its habitat1 is small]1 ) %ort] & less pretty hair1 ! color ( ! "u-hair be+ d>k]1 & ( ! top-hair less pure4 ,x is q z undurable z true *9*illa4 ,*9*illone4--#ac #h in*es4 ,is also f ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,! fur is long]1 weak]1 poor] & yell[] ?an real *9*illa1 b ! sk9s are (t5 dy$ 9 %ades closely resembl+ ! natural *9*illa4 ,erm9e4--#ab #b-a_/b in*es4 ,! "u-hair is %ort & ev51 ) ! top-hair slightly long]4 ,! lea!r is light1 close 9 texture1 & q durable4 ,9 mid-w9t] ! color is pure :ite1 except ! tip ( ! tail1 :i* is usually q black4 ,! be/ sk9s are f ,sib]ia4 ,fi%]4--#cj #ab in*es1 ) tail #ab-ah in*es long4 ,x is ! l>ge/ ( ! m>t5 family4 ,! "u-hair is deep1 & ( a d>k %ade1 ) a f9e d>k1 glossy & /rong top-hair1 #b or m in*es long4 ,! be/ sk9s are f ,canada4 ,! fur is some?+ l a d>k silky raccoon1 :ile ! tail1 :i* is v highly priz$1 is almo/ black4 ,fit*4--#ab #c in*es4 ,x is ( ! m>t5 species1 & its common "n is polecat4 ,! "u-hair is yell[ & #a_/c ( an in* deep4 ,! top-hair is black1 #a-a_/b-a-c_/d in*es long1 v f9e & op5 9 gr[?1 & n s close z ! m>t5s4 ,! l>ge/ & be/ sk9s are f ,d5m>k1 ,holl& & ,g]many4 ,! ,russian sk9s are small]1 silki]1 & are usually dy$ z a sub/itute = sable4 ,fox1 ,blue4--#bd #h in*es4 ,! "u-hair is ?ick & long1 :ile ! top-hair is f9e & n s pl5tiful z 9 o!r foxes4 ,x is f\nd 9 ,alaska1 ,hudson ,bay ,t]ritory1 ,gre5l& & ,ar*angel4 ,al?\gh call$ blue1 ! color is really ( a slaty or drab %ade4 ,! sk9s f ,ar*angel are m silky & ( a smoky blui% color1 & be+ sc>ce are mo/ valuable4 ,! :ite foxes :i* are dy$ a smoky blue are brilliant & q unlike ! br[n] %ades ( ! blue-fox4 ,fox1 ,cross4--#bj #g in*es4 ,! sk9s g5]ally h a pale yell[ or orange tone1 ) "s silv] po9ts1 & a d>ki% cross m>k+ on ! %\ld]s1 on acc\nt ( :i* ! animal got its "n4 ,"s are v simil> to ! pale r$ foxes ( ,nor?we/ ,am]ica4 ,! d>ke/ & be/ sk9s are f ,labrador & ,hudson ,bay1 ^? f l[] latitudes be+ inf]ior4 ,fox1 ,grey4--#bg #aj in*es4 ,has a close d>k drab "u-hair1 ) co>se regul>1 yell[i%1 grizzly-grey top-hair4 ,! majority ( ! sk9s come f ,virg9ia & s\?we/]n ,u4 ,s4 ,a4 ,^? f ! we/ are l>g] & bright]-ton$4 ,fox1 ,kit4--#bj #f in*es4 ,! "u-hair is %ort & s(t1 z is also ! top-hair1 :i* is a v pale grey mix$ ) "s yell[i%-:ite hairs4 ,x is ! smalle/ ( ! foxes1 & is f\nd 9 ,canada & nor!rn ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,fox1 ,r$4--#bd #h in*es1 al?\gh "s k9ds are l>g]4 ,! "u-hair is long & s(t1 & ! top-hair is pl5tiful & /rong4 ,! colors range f pale yell[ to a d>k r$1 "s be+ v brilliant4 ,x is widely f\nd 9 nor!rn ,am]ica1 ,*9a1 ,japan1 & ,au/ralia4 ,! ,kam*atka foxes are exceptionally f9e & ri* 9 quality4 ,f>!r nor?1 ne> ! op5 sea1 ! fur is co>se4 ,! sk9s h an ext5sive use1 bo? natural & dy$4 ,!y are dy$ black 9 imitation ( ! black fox1 or ^! :5 po9t$ ) badg] or o!r :ite hair to imitate ! silv] fox4 ,fox1 ,silv]4--#cj #aj in*es4 ,! "u-hair is close & f9e1 & ! top-hair1 :i* is black to silv]y1 is #c in*es long4 ,! fur on ! neck usually runs almo/ black1 & 9 "s cases ! black ext5ds ov] half ! l5g? ( ! sk94 ,:5 all black1 x is a natural black fox1 & is exce$+ly r>e & high-pric$4 ,! silv] fox is v valuable1 ! f9e/ wild sk9s com+ f ,labrador4 ,! tail is always tipp$ :ite4 ,! majority ( ! silv] fox pelts t rea* ! m>ket today are br$ on ran*es 9 ,canada & ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,fox1 ,:ite4--#bj #g in*es4 ,x is usually small & inhabits ! extreme nor!rn sections ( ,hudson ,bay1 ,labrador1 ,gre5l&1 & ,sib]ia4 ,! ,canadian are silky-hair$ & incl9$ to a creamy color1 :ile ! ,sib]ian are :it] & m woolly4 ,! "u-hair is g5]ally ( a blui%-grey tone1 b ! top-hair 9 w9t] is usually full en\gh to hide su* a v>iation4 ,^? sk9s :i* h "u-hair t is q :ite are r>e & mu* m exp5sive ?an ! o!rs4 ,9 summ] specim5s ( ^! species h slightly discolor$ coats1 ! %ades resembl+ ^? ( ! blue fox4 ,! sk9s :i* are n p]fectly :ite are blea*$1 or if !y _c be blea*$ suffici5tly :ite !y are dy$ v>i\s %ades ( smoke color1 blue-greys & also imitation blue fox4 ,goat4--,! size v>ies greatly4 ,! ,european1 ,arabian & ,ea/ ,indian v>ieties are us$ ma9ly = lea!r & wool4 ,_m f ,russia are dy$ black = rugs4 ,! hair is brittle1 ) poor "u-hair1 & is n durable4 ,! ,*9ese export _m sk9s 9 grey1 black & :ite1 made into rugs ( two sk9s ea*4 ,frequ5tly ! sk9s are dy$ black or br[n 9 imitation ( be>4 ,ham/]4--#h #c-a_/b in*es4 ,a de/ructive rod5t f\nd l>gely 9 ,russia & ,g]many4 ,! fur is v flat & poor1 ( a yell[i%-br[n color1 ) a little m>k+ ( black4 ,on acc\nt ( its lightness x is us$ = l9+s2 occasionally x is dy$4 ,h>e4--#bd #i in*es4 ,! common h>e ( ,europe is us$ mo/ly = ! hatt]s' trade4 ,! :ite h>es ( ,russia1 ,sib]ia1 & o!r nor!rn regions are ! ones ma9ly us$ = furs4 ,x is :ite/ 9 mid-w9t]1 & ! fur on ! flanks is long] ?an t on ! back4 ,! hair is brittle & n durable1 & ! lea!r is q z bad4 ,yet ! sk9s are us$ to dye imitations ( m ?an a doz5 diff]5t furs4 ,! ,nor? ,am]ican h>es are also dy$ black & br[n4 ,kang>oo4--,! sizes v>y greatly1 ! l>g] k9ds be+ g5]ally us$ = mak+ lea!r4 ,! sorts us$ = fur are1 blue kang>oo1 bu% kang>oo1 wall>oo1 rock wallaby1 swamp wallaby1 & %ort-tail$ wallaby4 ,_m ( ! swamp wallabies are dy$ imitation skunk1 & look q attractive4 ,! colors are g5]ally yell[i% or br[n1 "s 9 ! swamp v>iety be+ d>k br[n4 ,! sk9s are q /rong4 ,! rock wallabies are s(t & woolly1 & (t5 h a blui% tone4 ,!y are us$ = rugs4 ,kol9sky4--#ab #b-a_/b in*es4 ,x is ( ! m>t5 family4 ,! "u-hair is %ort & r weak1 b regul>1 z is also ! top-hair4 ,! color is usually a uni=m yell[4 ,!y are g5]ally dy$ 9 imitation ( o!r memb]s ( ! m>t5 family4 ,x is v light 9 weight1 & ! be/ sk9s are obta9$ f ,sib]ia4 ,! tails are us$ = arti/s' 8sable0 bru%es4 ,lambs4--,^? ( comm]cial int]e/ are f ,s\? ,russia1 ,p]sia1 & ,afghani/an1 & include ,p]sian ,lamb1 ,broadtail1 ,a/ra*an1 ,%iraz1 ,bokh>a1 ,c>acul1 & ,krimm]s4 ,! ,p]sians are #ah #i in*es1 & are ! f9e/ & be/4 ,:5 prop]ly dress$ & dy$ !y %\ld h regul>1 close1 bright curls1 v>y+ f small to v l>ge & if ( equal size1 regul>ity1 tightness & brightness1 _! value is ine/imable4 ,all ! above lambs1 except krimm]1 are naturally a ru/y black or br[n1 & are 9 mo/ cases dy$ a jet black4 ,lu/] _c be imp>t$ :]e naturally lack+4 ,broadtails1 #aj #e in*es1 are ! "y ( ! ,p]sians1 kill$ be=e ! wool has _h "t to develop beyond ! flat wavy /ate4 ,!y are naturally ( exce$+ly light weight1 & :5 ( an ev5 patt]n possess+ a lu/r\s %e5 are co/ly4 ,! pelt1 h[ev]1 is too delicate to resi/ h>d we>4 ,a/ra*an1 ,%iraz1 & ,bokh>a lambs1 #bb #i in*es1 are ( a co>s] & loos] curl4 ,c>acul lambs are ! v "y ( ! a/ra*an1 & ! f9e/ sk9s are almo/ z effective z ! broadtails1 al?\gh n s f9e 9 texture4 ,krimm]s1 #bd #aj in*es are grey lambs obta9$ f ,crimea4 ,!y are ( a simil> nature to ! c>aculs1 b loos] 9 curl1 & rang+ 9 color f a v light to a d>k grey1 ! be/ be+ pale blui%-greys4 ,sl9k lambs come f ,s\? ,am]ica & ,*9a4 ,! ,s\? ,am]ican are v small1 & g5]ally ^? are /ill-born4 ,!y h a p>ticul>ly ?9 pelt1 ) v close wool ( m9ute curls4 ,! ,*9ese sorts are mu* l>g]4 ,leop>d4--#c #f feet long4 ,!re are sev]al k9ds1 ! *ief be+ ! sn[ leop>d or ounce1 ,*9ese1 ,b5gal1 ,p]sian1 ,ea/ ,indian1 & ,african4 ,! fir/ v>iety inhabits ! ,himalayas1 & has a deep1 s(t fur1 q long z comp>$ ) ! ,b5gal sort4 ,! colors are pale orange & :ite ) d>k m>k+s4 ,! ,*9ese are ( a m$ium orange-br[n color & full 9 fur4 ,! ,ea/ ,indian are less full & n s d>k2 ! ,b5gal are d>k & m$ium 9 color ) %ort1 h>d hair4 ,! ,african are small1 ) pale lemon-color$ gr\nd1 & v closely m>k$ ) black spots4 ,lynx4--#de #bj in*es4 ,! "u-hair is ?9n] ?an 9 ! fox1 b ! top-hair is f9e1 silky & fl[+1 #d in*es long1 ( a pale grey1 slightly mottl$ ) f9e /reaks & d>k spots4 ,! fur on ! flank is long]1 & :ite1 ) v pron\nc$ m>k+s ( d>k spots1 & ?is "p ( ! sk9 is g5]ally work$ sep>ately4 ,sk9s ) a blui% tone are m valuable ?an ^? ) a s&y or r$di% hue4 ,! lynx inhabits ,nor? ,am]ica z f> s\? z ,cali=nia4 ,! be/ sk9s come f ,hudson ,bay1 & also ,sw$54 ,!y are g5]ally dy$ black or br[n1 simil> to dy$ fox4 ,m>mot4--#ah #ab in*es4 ,a rod5t f\nd l>gely 9 ! s\? ( ,g]many4 ,! fur is yell[i%-br[n1 r h>% & brittle1 & )\t "u-hair4 ,also f\nd 9 ,nor? ,am]ica1 ,*9a1 & ! be/ sk9s come f ,russia4 ,x is dy$ br[n 9 imitation ( m9k or sable1 ! /ripes usually be+ put on 9 ! complet$ g>m5t4 ,m>t51 ,baum4--#af #e in*es4 ,also call$ ,p9e ,m>t51 & is f\nd 9 ! woods & m\nta9s ( ,russia1 ,norway1 ,g]many & ,switz]l&4 ,x has a ?ick "u-hair ) /rong top-hair1 & ranges f a pale to a d>k blui%-br[n4 ,! be/ are f ,norway1 are v durable & ( good appe>ance1 & a good sub/itute = ! ,am]ican sable4 ,m>t51 ,japanese4--#af #e in*es4 ,x is ( a woolly nature ) r co>se top-hair1 & q yell[ 9 color4 ,x is dy$1 b x is n an attractive fur1 lack+ a silky1 bright & fre% appe>ance4 ,m>t51 ,/one4--,size & quality simil> to ! baum m>t54 ,! color ( ! "u-hair is /ony :ite1 & ! top-hair is a v d>k br[n1 almo/ black4 ,sk9s ( a pale blui% tone are us$ natural1 :ile less cle> color$ ones are dy$1 usually 9 ,russian sable %ades4 ,!y are f\nd 9 ,russia1 ,bosnia1 ,turkey1 ,greece1 ,g]many1 & ,france1 ! be/ com+ f ,bosnia & ,france4 ,m9k4--#af #e in*es4 ,is ( ! amphibi\s class1 & is f\nd ?r\gh\t ,nor? ,am]ica1 z well z 9 ,russia1 ,*9a & ,japan4 ,! "u-hair is %ort1 close & ev51 z is also ! top-hair1 :i* is v /rong4 ,! be/ sk9s are v d>k1 & come f ,nova ,scotia4 ,9 ! c5tral /ates ! color is a good br[n1 b 9 ! nor?we/ & s\?we/1 ! fur is co>se & pale4 ,x is v durable & an economic sub/itute = sable4 ,! ,russian species is d>k1 b poor & flat 9 quality1 & ! ,*9ese & ,japanese sorts are s pale t !y are always dy$4 ,mole4--#c-a_/b #b-a_/b in*es4 ,is pl5tiful 9 ! ,briti% ,isles & ,europe1 & is mu* 9 dem& on acc\nt ( its velvety fur ( a pretty blui% %ade4 ,al?\gh ! sk9s are comp>atively *eap1 ! co/ ( dress+ is high on acc\nt ( ! consid]able am\nt ( labor involv$4 ,! pelt is v light 9 weight1 b does n resi/ well ! friction ( we>4 ,monkey1 ,black4--#ah #aj in*es4 ,! species usually f\nd on ! we/ coa/ ( ,africa1 is ! "o ( int]e/ to ! fur trade4 ,! hair is v long1 v black & bright1 ) no "u-hair1 & ! :ite pelt is v noticeable by contra/4 ,muskrat1 ,br[n1 ,black1 ,russian4--#ab #h in*es4 ,a v prolific rod5t ( ! amphibi\s class1 obta9$ 9 ,canada & ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,x has a fairly ?ick & ev5 br[ni% "u-hair1 & a r /rong1 d>k top-hair ( m$ium d5sity4 ,x is a durable & n too heavy fur4 ,x is us$ natural1 b rec5tly ! pluck$1 %e>$ & dy$ sk9s h f\nd a v ext5sive use z ,hudson seal1 an imitation ( real seal4 ,! s-call$ black v>iety ( muskrat is f\nd 9 ,new ,j]sey & ,delaw>e1 b only 9 comp>atively small numb]s4 ,! ,russian is also v small & limit$ 9 numb]s4 ,x is ( a pretty silv]y-blue %ade ) ev5 "u-hair1 ) v little silky top-hair1 & silv]y-:ite sides1 pres5t+ altoge!r a m>k$ effect4 ,nutria4--#bj #ab in*es4 ,is a rod5t ab\t half ! size ( ! beav]1 & :5 pluck$1 has only ab\t half ! dep? ( fur1 :i* is n s close4 ,x is (t5 dy$ a seal color1 b its woolly nature r5d]s x less effective ?an ! dy$ muskrat4 ,! sk9s are obta9$ f nor!rn ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,opossum1 ,am]ican4--#ah #aj in*es4 ,is a m>supial1 ! only "o ( its class f\nd outside ( ,au/ralia4 ,! "u-hair is ( a v close frizzy nature1 & ne>ly :ite1 ) long blui%-grey top-hair mix$ ) "s black4 ,x is f\nd 9 c5tral sections ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 & is frequ5tly dy$ imitation skunk4 ,opossum1 ,au/ralian4--#af #h in*es4 ,is ( a totally diff]5t nature f ! ,am]ican4 ,al?\gh x has fur-hair & top-hair1 ! latt] is sp>se & f9e1 s t ! fur coat may be consid]$ "o ( close ev5 "u-hair4 ,! color v>ies accord+ to ! di/rict ( orig91 f blue-grey to yell[ ) r$di% tones4 ,^? f ne> ,sidney are a light cle> blue1 :ile ^? f ,victoria are a d>k iron-grey1 & /rong] 9 ! fur-hair4 ,! mo/ pleas+ %ade ( grey comes f ,adelaide4 ,! r$de/ are ! *eape/4 ,! r+-tail$ opossum1 #g #d in*es1 has a v %ort1 close & d>k grey "u-fur1 "s almo/ black1 b ! sk9s are n us$ ext5sively4 ,! ,tasmanian opossum1 grey & black1 #bj #aj in*es1 is ( a simil> description1 b l>g]1 d>k]1 & /rong] 9 ! "u-hair4 ,ott]1 ,riv]4--,! size v>ies consid]ably1 z does also ! l5g? ( ! fur1 accord+ to ! orig94 ,x is f\nd 9 greate/ numb]s 9 ! colde/ nor!rn regions1 & ) ! be/ "u-hair1 ! top-hair be+ unimportant1 z x is pluck$ out4 ,mo/ ( ! be/ riv] ott]s come f ,canada & ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 & av]age #cf #ah in*es4 ,! sk9s f ,g]many & ,*9a are small] & %ort] furr$4 ,! colors ( ! "u-hair v>y f v d>k br[n to almo/ yell[4 ,bo? ! fur & ! lea!r are extremely /rong1 & _m sk9s are dy$ imitation seal aft] pluck+4 ,ott]1 ,sea4--#ej #be in*es4 ,is "o ( ! mo/ beautiful ( furs4 ,! "u-hair is ( a ri*1 d5se1 silky nature1 ) %ort & s(t top-hair1 :i* is n pluck$4 ,! colors range f a pale grey-br[n to a ri* black1 & _m sk9s h a spr9kl+ ( :ite or silv]-:ite hairs4 ,! black] ! "u-hair1 & ! m regul> ! silv] po9ts1 ! m valuable is ! sk94 ,pony1 ,russian4--,?is is a comp>atively *eap1 b v s]viceable fur1 & possesses "s v desirable qualities4 ,x has a ?9 lea!r1 b is also scantily hair$4 ,"y pelts h a design on !m some:at simil> to broadtail lambs1 or moire a/ra*ans1 b ?is design is lo/ to a consid]able degree by dye+ ! furs4 ,! hair1 :i* is v glossy1 is g5]ally dy$ black1 al?\gh ! natural pelts are also worn ext5sively4 ,rabbit4--#aj #af in*es4 ,! fur is ?ick & f9e1 b ! pelt is v weak4 ,x is a native ( c5tral ,europe1 ,asia1 ,nor? & ,s\? ,am]ica1 ,new ,zeal& & ,au/ralia4 ,! color ranges f :ite to black4 ,france1 ,belgium & ,au/ralia are ! greate/ produc]s ( rabbits suitable = dye+ black1 ! s-call$ ,fr5* seal1 = :i* !y are mo/ly us$4 ,at ! pres5t "t ! dye+ ( rabbits con/itutes a consid]able p]c5tage ( ! total fur-dye+ op]ations 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,! mo/ v>i$ %ades are produc$ on rabbit1 & x probably is ! basis ( ! greate/ numb] ( dy$ imitations ( bett] furs4 ,9 addition to ! ,fr5* seal1 or seal9e1 rabbit is dy$ 9 imitation ( beav]1 mole1 etc4 ,raccoon4--#bj #ab in*es4 ,v>ies consid]ably 9 size1 quality & color ( ! fur1 accord+ to ! "p ( ,nor? ,am]ica 9 :i* x is f\nd4 ,! "u-hair is #a-a-a_/b in*es deep1 pale br[n1 ) long top-hair ( a d>k & silv]y-grey mixture ( a grizzly type1 ! be/ hav+ a blui% tone1 & ! *eape/ a yell[i% or r$di%-br[n4 ,! be/ sk9s come f ! nor!rn "p ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,! sk9s h a wide use natural1 b are also dy$ d>k blue1 or imitation skunk1 ! latt] be+ a v effective & attractive sub/itute1 & ext5sively us$4 ,sometimes ! sk9s are pluck$1 & if ! "u-hair is good1 ! effect is simil> to a beav]4 ,sable1 ,am]ican & ,canadian4--#ag #e in*es4 ,! sk9s are sold 9 ! trade z m>t5s1 b s9ce _m ( ! sk9s are ( a v d>k color1 & almo/ z silky z ,russian sable1 !y h come to be kn[n z sable4 ,! prevail+ color is a m$ium br[n1 :ile _m are q yell[4 ,^! pale sk9s h be5 dy$ s well t !y c *eaply sub/itute ,russian sable4 ,! f9e/ sk9s are f ! ,eskimo ,bay & ,hudson ,bay di/ricts1 ! poore/ f ,alaska4 ,sable1 ,russian4--#ae #e in*es4 ,belongs to a species ( m>t5 simil> to ! ,european & ,am]ican1 b mu* m silky 9 ! texture ( ! fur4 ,! "u-hair is close1 f9e & v s(t1 ! top-hair is regul>1 f9e & fl[+1 & silky1 rang+ f #a-a_/b to #b-a_/b in*es 9 dep?4 ,9 color !y v>y f a pale /ony or yell[i% %ade to a ri*1 almo/ black1 d>k br[n1 ) a blui% tone4 ,! lea!r is exce$+ly close & f9e 9 texture1 v light 9 weight1 & v durable4 ,! ,yakutsk1 ,okhotsk1 & ,kam*atka sorts are good1 ! la/ be+ ! l>ge/ & fulle/-furr$1 b ( less color d5sity ?an ! o!rs4 ,! mo/ valuable1 are ! d>ke/ f ,yakutsk 9 ,sib]ia1 p>ticul>ly ^? hav+ silv]y hairs ev5ly di/ribut$ ov] ! sk91 b ^! furs are v r>e4 ,! ,amur sk9s are pal]1 b (t5 ( a pretty1 blui% tone1 ) _m int]sp]s$ silv]y hairs4 ,! fur is n s close or deep1 b is v effective nev]!less4 ,! pal] sk9s f all di/ricts are n[ tipp$1 ! tips ( ! hair be+ /a9$ d>k1 ! fa/e/ dyes be+ us$1 & only an exp]t c detect !m z diff]+ f ! natural %ades4 ,seal1 ,fur4--,! sizes range f #bd #ae in*es to #ae #be in*es1 ! wid? be+ ! wide/ "p ( ! sk9 aft] dress+4 ,! mo/ useful sk9s are ! pups #db in*es long1 ! quality be+ v good & uni=m4 ,! l>ge/ sk9s1 kn[n z wigs1 & rang+ up to #h feet 9 l5g?1 are unev5 & weak 9 ! fur4 ,! supply ( ! be/ sort is *iefly f ! nor!rn ,pacific1 ,pribil( ,isl&s1 ,alaska1 nor?we/ coa/ ( ,am]ica1 ,aleutian ,isl&s1 & ,japan4 ,o!r k9ds are tak5 f ! s\? ,pacific regions4 ,! dress+ & dye+ ( seal takes long] ?an = any o!r fur1 b :5 f9i%$1 x has a f9e1 ri* effect1 & is v durable4 ,seal1 ,hair4--,?is is *iefly us$ = its oil & lea!r1 & n = its fur4 ,x has co>se1 rigid hair1 & no "u-hair4 ,skunk1 or 8,black ,m>t540--#ae #h in*es4 ,! "u-hair is full1 & fairly close1 ) glossy1 fl[+ top-hair ab\t #b-a_/b in*es long4 ,! majority ( ! sk9s h two /ripes ( :ite hair ext5d+ ! :ole l5g? ( ! sk94 ,^! 7 =m]ly cut out1 b m rec5tly are dy$ ! same color z ! re/ ( ! sk94 ,!y are widely f\nd 9 ,nor? & ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,! be/ are f ,ohio & ,new ,york4 ,! skunk is naturally ! blacke/ fur1 is silky & v durable4 ,squirrel4--#aj #e in*es4 ,?is size ref]s to ! ,russian & ,sib]ian types1 :i* are practically ! only k9d import$ = fur1 o!r species hav+ too poor a fur to be ( great comm]cial int]e/4 ,! back ( ! ,russian squirrel has an ev51 close fur1 v>y+ f a cle> blui%-grey to a r$di%-br[n1 ! bellies 9 ! =m] be+ ( a flat quality & :ite1 9 ! latt]1 yell[i%4 ,! backs are work$ up sep>ately f ! bellies4 ,! pelts1 ?\gh light 9 weight1 are t\gh & durable4 ,! tails are d>k & v small1 & consid]ably us$4 ,tig]4--,! size v>ies1 ! l>ge/ measur+ ab\t #aj feet f ! nose to ! root ( ! tail4 ,x is f\nd ?r\gh\t ,india1 ,turke/an1 ,*9a1 ,mongolia1 & ! ,ea/ ,indies4 ,coats ( ! ,b5gal v>iety are %ort & ( a d>k orange-br[n ) black /ripes4 ,^? f o!r p>ts ( ,india are simil>-color$1 b long] 9 hair1 :ile ^? f ! nor? & ,*9a are n only l>ge 9 size1 b h v long s(t hair ( a delicate orange-br[n1 ) v :ite flanks1 & m>k$ g5]ally1 ) ! blacke/ ( /ripes4 ,wolf4--#ej #be in*es4 ,is closely alli$ to ! dog family1 & v widely di/ribut$ ov] ! _w4 ,! be/ are ! full-furr$ sk9s ( a v pale blui%-grey ) f9e1 fl[+ black top-hair1 f ! ,hudson ,bay di/rict4 ,^? f ! ,unit$ ,/ates & ,asia are h>%] & br[n]4 ,! ,sib]ian is small] ?an ! ,nor? ,am]ican1 & ! ,russian /ill small]4 ,a l>ge numb] ( prairie-dogs1 or dog-wolves1 is also us$ = *eap] furs4 ,wolv]9e4--#af #ah in*es4 ,is a native ( ,am]ica1 ,sib]ia1 ,russia1 & ,sc&9avia1 & is ( ! g5]al nature ( ! be>4 ,! "u-hair is full & ?ick1 ) /rong1 bright top-hair ab\t #b-a_/b in*es long4 ,! color is ( two or ?ree diff]5t %ades ( br[n on "o sk91 ! c5t] be+ d>k1 & pres5t+ ! g5]al appe>ance ( an oval saddle1 bord]$ ) a r pale %ade ( br[n1 & m]g+ to a d>k] %ade t[>ds ! flanks4 ,?is peculi> "* /amps x z a di/+ui%$ fur4 ,x is exp5sive1 & q valuable on acc\nt ( its excell5t qualities4 ,wombat1 ,koala or ,au/ralian ,be>4--#bj #ab in*es4 ,x has a light grey or br[n1 close1 ?ick "u-hair #a_/b in* deep1 & no top-hair1 ) a r ?ick1 spongy pelt4 ,x is *eap1 & well suit$ = r\gh we>4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,/ructure ,,( ,,fur ,fur is made up ( two ma9 compon5ts1 ! hair & ! sk91 & ea* ( ^! has a v complex /ructure4 ,9 ! liv+ animal ! sk9 s]ves z a protective cov]+1 & also con/itutes an organ ( secretion & ( feel+2 consequ5tly x is ( a highly complicat$ nature4 ,! sk9 ( all fur-be>+ animals is ess5tially ! same 9 /ructure1 al?\gh v>y+ consid]ably z to ?ickness & texture4 ,x consi/s ( two pr9cipal lay]s1 :i* are entirely diff]5t 9 /ructure & purpose1 & correspond+ly diff]5t 9 bo? physical & *emical respects3 ! epid]mis1 epi!lium or cuticle1 :i* is ! out] lay]1 & ! d]mis or corium1 :i* is ! true sk94 7,fig4 #a;,a74 ,! epid]mis is v ?9 z comp>$ ) ! corium4 ,its out] lay] consi/s ( a tissue ( cells1 some:at analog\s to ! horny matt] ( nails & hair4 ,! inn] surface1 call$ ! #8rete malpighi1' re/s on ! true sk91 & is a s(t1 muc\s lay] ( cells4 ,^! cells are sph]ical :5 fir/ =m$1 b z !y approa* ! surface become flatt5$1 & dry up1 =m+ ! horny out] lay] ( ! epid]mis1 :i* is con/antly ?r[+ (f ! dead scales1 & :i* is con/antly be+ r5ew$ f bel[4 ,x is f ?is inn] lay] ( ! epid]mis t ! hair1 ! sweat-gl&s1 & ! fat-gl&s are develop$4 ,! corium1 or true sk91 consi/s ess5tially ( :ite1 int]lac+ fibres ( ! k9d kn[n z connective tissue4 ,^! fibres are !mselves made up ( extremely f9e small] fibres1 or fibrils1 cem5t$ toge!r by a sub/ance ( a some:at diff]5t nature f ! fibres1 ! cori94 ,t[>ds ! c5t] ( ! sk91 ! texture ( ! int]weav+ fibres is loos]1 becom+ mu* m compact at ! surface j b5ea? ! inn] lay] ( ! epid]mis4 ,?is "p ( ! corium is s exce$+ly close t ! fibrils are sc>cely recognizable4 ,x is 9 ?is "p t ! fat-gl&s are situat$1 :ile ! hair-roots & sweat-gl&s pass ?r\gh x into ! loos] texture ( ! corium4 ,! surface next to ! fle% is also clos] 9 /ructure ?an ! middle portions ( ! sk91 & has some:at ( a membran\s "* due to ! fibres runn+ almo/ p>allel to ! surface ( ! sk94 ,! sk9 is jo9$ to ! body prop] by a network ( connective tissue1 frequ5tly full ( fat-cells4 ,?is lay]1 toge!r ) portions ( ! fle% :i* may adh]e to x1 is remov$ by ! process call$ #8fle%+1' & ?is side ( ! sk9 is kn[n z ! fle% side4 ,! corium also conta9s a small proportion ( yell[ fibres1 kn[n z #8ela/ic fibres1' :i* diff] physically & *emically f ! re/ ( ! sk9 sub/ance4 ,dur+ ! c\rse ( ! developm5t ( ! embryo animal1 a small gr\p ( cells =ms l a bulb on ! inn] side ( ! epid]mis1 above a knot ( v f9e blood-vessels 9 ! corium4 ,?is gr\p ( cells gr[s d[nw>d into ! true sk91 & ! hair-root :i* is =m$ )9 x1 surr\nds ! capill>y blood-vessels1 draw+ n\ri%m5t f !m1 & ?us =m+ ! papilla4 7,fig4 #a;,a74 ,small] projections also =m on ! bulb1 & ! fat-gl&s are gradually develop$4 ,! sweat-gl&s are =m$ 9 a mann] simil> to ! developm5t ( hair4 ,! individual hair fibre is q z complicat$ 9 /ructure z ! sk91 & is made up ( f\r di/9ct p>ts4 7,fig4 #a;,b74#b #b ,descriptions & figures tak5 f 8,mammal ,fur ,"u ! ,microscope10 by ,dr4 ,l4 ,a4 ,hausman1 9 ,natural ,hi/ory1 ,sept4-,oct41 #aibj4 ,! m$ulla1 or pi?1 is ! inn]mo/ portion ( ! hair1 & is compos$ ( _m %runk5 cells1 (t5 connect$ by a network :i* may fill ! m$ull>y column p>tially or :olly4 ,surr\nd+ ! m$ulla is ! cortex1 :i* is made up ( sp9dle-%ap$ cells fus$ into a horny1 almo/ homog5e\s1 transp>5t mass1 & =m+ a l>ge proportion ( ! hair %aft4 ,9 ! majority ( ! fur-be>+ animals1 !re is di/ribut$ )9 & among ! cells ( ! cortex a pigm5t 9 ! =m ( granules or m9ute p>ticles1 arrang$ 9 ! diff]5t hairs 9 fairly def9ite & *>act]i/ic patt]ns4 ,x is to ^! pigm5t granules t ! color ( ! hair is due prim>ily4 ,9 "s cases ! color+ matt] ( ! %aft is uni=mly diffus$ & n granul>4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #a ,a4 ,,/ructure ,,( ,,sk94 ,b4 ,,/ructure ,,( ,,hair4 ,! out]mo/ coat ( ! hair1 or cuticle1 is compos$ ( ?91 colorless1 transp>5t scales ( v>y+ =ms & sizes1 & arrang$ 9 s]ies l ! %+les ( a ro(4 ,x is on ^! scales t ! lu/re or gloss ( ! hair dep5ds4 ,s9ce lu/re is due to ! unbrok5 reflection ( light f ! surface ( ! hair1 ! smoo!r ! surface1 ! glossi] x w appe>4 ,:5 ! scales ( ! cuticle are irregul> & unev51 ! surface ( ! hair w n be uni=m & smoo?1 & ! light reflect$ f x w be brok5 & scatt]$1 & consequ5tly ! hair w n possess a high degree ( lu/re4 ,z a rule1 ! /iff1 /raight hairs h ! mo/ regul> & uni=m arrangem5t ( ! scales ( ! cuticle1 & h5ce are ! smoo!/ & glossie/4 ,fur hairs are 9 g5]al ei!r circul> or elliptical 9 cross-section1 ^? :i* are circul> be+ /raight or only slightly curv$1 :ile ^? :i* are elliptical 9 cross-section are curly l ! hair ( ! v>i\s k9ds ( lambs4 ,mo/ fur-be>+ animals h two diff]5t k9ds ( hair on _! bodies4 ,ne>e/ to ! sk9 is a coat ( %ort1 ?ick1 s(t & f9e hair1 usually ( a woolly nature1 & call$ ! "u-hair1 "u-wool1 or fur-hair4 ,ov]ly+ ! fur-hair is a protective lay] ( hair1 long] & co>s] ?an ! "u-hair1 & usually /raight1 h>d1 smoo? & glossy4 ,?is is call$ ! top-hair1 ov]-hair1 gu>d-hair or protective hair4 ,9 "s furs1 ! top-hair con/itutes "o ( ! *ief elem5ts ( _! beauty1 :ile 9 o!rs1 ! top-hairs are remov$1 s z bett] to display ! attractive features ( ! "u-hair4 ,! roots ( ! top-hair are g5]ally deep] 9 ! sk9 ?an ^? ( ! fur-hair1 & 9 "s in/ances :]e ! top-hair is remov$1 z 9 ! seal1 ! roots are de/roy$ by ! action ( *emicals appli$ to ! sk9 side1 ! roots ( ! fur-hair be+ :olly unaffect$ by ?is treatm5t4 ,! fur-hair & ! top-hair 9 ! same animal h diff]5t m$ull>y & cuticul> /ructures1 & ^! *>act]i/ics may be us$ to di/+ui% ! two k9ds ( hair4 ,figs4 #b;,a & ,b illu/rate ^! diff]5ces4 ,9 ea* case1 ! two l>ge hairs on ! left ( ! illu/ration are ! gu>d-hairs1 %[+ respectively ! cuticul> scales & ! m$ulla4 ,on ! "r are ! two fur-hairs %[+ ! scales & ! m$ulla4 ,al?\gh compos$ ( _m diff]5t k9ds ( tissues1 & v>y+ s greatly 9 physical /ructure1 bo? ! sk9 & ! hair belong to ! same class ( *emical comp\nds1 namely ! prote9s4 ,^! are highly complex sub/ances1 =m+ ! basis ( all animal & vegetable tissues4 ,!re are _m diff]5t k9ds ( prote9s1 v>y+ some:at 9 _! con/itutions1 b all %[1 on analysis ! foll[+ approximate composition ( *emical elem5ts3 ,c>bon #ej-ee ,hydrog5 #f4e-g4c ,nitrog5 #ae-ag4f ,oxyg5 #ai-bd ,sulphur #j4c-e ,! pr9cipal k9ds ( prote9s f\nd 9 ! v>i\s fur /ructures are album9s1 k]at91 collag51 & muc9es4 ,album9s1 ( :i* ! :ite ( egg is ! mo/ famili> v>iety1 occurs to "s ext5t 9 ! corium z s]um 9 ! blood-vessels1 & also z ! liquid fill+ ! connective tissues1 kn[n z ! lymph4 ,!y are soluble 9 cold wat]1 b :5 heat$ to ab\t #gj ,c41 !y coagulate & are !n insoluble4 ,conc5trat$ m9]al acids & /rong alcohol w also effect coagulation4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #b ,a4 ,,hair ,,( ,,european ,,beav]4 a4 ,,top-,,hair4 b4 ,,"u-,,hair4 ,b4 ,,hair ,,( ,,skunk4 a4 ,,top-,,hair4 b4 ,,"u-,,hair4 ,k]at9 is ! *ief sub/ance ( :i* all horny p>ts ( ! animal body are compos$1 su* z ! hair1 nails or ho(s4 ,x is ! pr9cipal con/itu5t ( ! hair1 ! epid]mis1 & ! walls ( ! cells ( ! inn] lay] ( ! epid]mis1 or ! #8rete malpighi4' ,k]at9 is p>ticul>ly ri* 9 sulphur1 & is q insoluble 9 cold wat]4 ,cau/ic alkalies attack k]at9-conta9+ p>ts4 ,! collag5s are ! pr9cipal prote9s ( ! sk91 =m+ l>gely ! sub/ance ( ! connective tissue fibres1 & consequ5tly ! framework ( ! sk94 ,!y are insoluble 9 cold wat]1 dilute acids & salt solutions1 & are only v sl[ly attack$ by dilute alkalies4 ,dilute acids & alkalies cause collag5 to swell2 conc5trat$ acids1 vegetable tann+ mat]ials1 basic *rome or iron salts cause x to %r9k4 ,by boil+ ) wat]1 dilute acids or dilute alkalies1 collag5 is split up into gelat9 or glut94 ,! muc9es ( ! sk91 int]cellul> mat]ial or cori91 are soluble 9 dilute acids1 9 dilute solutions ( alkalies & ( alkal9e e>?s su* z lime1 & 9 #aj salt solution1 b insoluble 9 wat]1 & 9 salt solutions ( great] or less conc5tration ?an #aj4 ,on dry+ ! sk91 ! muc9es cem5t ! connective tissue fibres1 caus+ ! sk9 to become /iff1 horny & transluc5t4 ,! muc9es are also con/itu5ts ( ! cells ( ! #8rete malpighi4' ,! solubility ( ! muc9es 9 dilute solutions ( alkalies & ( alkal9e e>?s causes ! epid]mis to be loos5$ f ! corium1 :5 ! sk9s are treat$ ) su* solutions = "s "t4 ,:5 raw sk9s are boil$ ) wat]1 ! great] "p goes into solution1 ! residue consi/+ *iefly ( ! k]at9s ( ! hair & epid]mis cells4 ,on cool+1 ! solution solidifies to a jelly ( gelat9e4 ,x comb9es ) bo? acids & alkalies4 ,a prop]ty ( ! sk9 :i* is ( importance 9 ! tann+ op]ation ( fur-dress+1 & a quality :i* also *>act]izes gelat9e1 is ! capacity to absorb liquids & swell up1 )\t *ang+ *emically4 ,raw pelts swell up easily 9 pure cold wat]1 b mu* m easily 9 solutions ( dilute acids or dilute alkalies1 only a little ( ! sk9 mat]ial be+ dissolv$4 ,9 /rong] solutions1 ! sk9s swell up less1 :ile m ( ! sk9 sub/ance dissolves1 & by prolong$ action ( /rong acids or alkalies1 an almo/ complete solution ( ! sk9 is obta9$1 )\t1 h[ev]1 any ( ! mat]ial decompos+4 ,) v /rong alkalies or acids1 ! sk9 sub/ance is brok5 up into simpl] comp\nds1 su* z v>i\s am9es & ammonia4 ,! swell+ action ( acids or ( alkalies increases ) ! increase 9 conc5tration ( ! acid or alkali1 b only up to a c]ta9 po9t1 aft] :i* fur!r increase 9 ! /r5g? ( ! acid or alkal9e solution causes a r$uction 9 ! swell+1 & ev5 produces %r9kage4 ,9 ! pres5ce ( neutral salts1 l common table salt1 sodium *loride1 ! swell+ action ( acids1 is r$uc$1 b ! action ( alkalies rema9s practically unaffect$4 ,:5 treat$ ) ! v>i\s *emicals1 fur hair acts 9 a mann] q simil> to wool4 ,if x be rememb]$ t c]ta9 classes ( furs are d]iv$ f animals ( ! %eep family1 su* furs z ,p]sian lamb1 krimm]1 etc41 x becomes app>5t :y *emicals %\ld affect furs 9 ne>ly ! same way z wool4 ,! great majority ( furs diff] f ^? ( ! %eep family1 9 possess+ mu* great] resi/ance to ! action ( *emicals4 ,! range is a wide "o h[ev]1 & no exact crit]ion c be adopt$4 ,z a g5]al rule1 ! reactions are mo/ m>k$ ) fur-hair ( a woolly nature1 s ?is may be tak5 z a /&>d ( ref]5ce4 ,acids h relatively little action on ! hair1 :5 appli$ 9 dilute solutions4 ,! scales ( ! cuticle or epi!lium are some:at op5$1 ! fibre becom+ slightly r\gh5$ !reby4 ,ev5 at high temp]atures1 ! hair is q resi/ant to ! action ( dilute acids4 ,conc5trat$ acids de/roy ! hair ) ! lib]ation or =mation ( ammonia1 hydrog5 sulphide1 & v>i\s am9o acids4 ,:5 treat$ ) dilute acids1 ! hair1 especially if x is ( a v woolly nature1 reta9s consid]able quantities ( acid1 ?is ph5om5on be+ probably due to ! fixation ( ! acid by ! basic gr\ps 9 ! hair4 ,nitric acid produces a yell[ coloration :5 appli$ 9 dilute solution = a %ort "t4 ,sulphur\s acid1 ! acid =m$ by ! burn+ ( sulphur1 has a blea*+ action on ! hair4 ,alkalies attack ! hair1 ev5 9 dilute solutions1 & by long] action complete decomposition sets 91 ) =mation ( ammonia & am9o-acids4 ,ammonium c>bonate1 soap1 & borax are practically h>mless 9 _! effect on ! hair4 ,sodium & potassium c>bonates r\gh5 ! hair on prolong$ action1 ev5 9 dilute solutions4 ,calcium hydroxide on cont9u$ action removes sulphur f ! hair1 caus+ x to become brittle4 ,salts ( alkalies & alkal9e e>?s d n affect ! hair at all4 ,salts ( ! heavy metals on ! o!r h&1 are absorb$ 9 appreciable quantities4 ,f a dilute solution ( alum1 alum9um hydroxide is absorb$ by ! hair1 ! potassium sulphate rema9+ 9 solution4 ,simil>ly ) copp]1 iron1 & *romium salts1 ! metal oxides are fix$ by ! fibre4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,fur ,,dress+ ,,introductory ,,& ,,hi/orical ,fur dress+ has a tw(old purpose4 ,fir/ ( all1 ! putrefactive processes mu/ be p]man5tly /opp$1 s t ! sk9 may be pres]v$ z su*1 or work$ up z "s fur g>m5t1 )\t dang] ( decomposition4 ,hav+ tak5 measures to assure ! endurance or relative p]man5cy ( ! pelt1 ! prime consid]ation is1 ( c\rse1 ! appe>ance ( ! hair4 ,! hair mu/ be s treat$ t all its inh]5t beauty is br\ght out to ! fulle/ ext5t4 ,x mu/ be made clean & s(t1 & all ! natural gloss mu/ be pres]v$1 & if possible1 enhanc$4 ,! appe>ance ( ! lea!r is relatively unimportant1 s9ce x is n se5 aft] ! furs are made into g>m5ts4 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 c]ta9 qualities :i* x is ess5tial = ! lea!r to possess aft] be+ dress$1 & ^! are1 s(tness1 lightness ( weight1 ela/icity or /ret*1 & a c]ta9 firmness or #8feel4' ,9 o!r words ! important consid]ations 9 fur dress+ are ! employm5t ( means1 & ! ex]cise ( c>e to pres]ve or ev5 improve ^? *>act]i/ics ( ! pelt :i* make x valuable4 ,! dress+ ( furs has _m features 9 common ) ! manufacture ( lea!r1 :i* is a k9dr$ art4 ,b :]eas 9 fur dress+ ! prime consid]ation is ! appe>ance ( ! hair1 & ! lea!r is ( second>y importance1 9 ! production ( lea!r1 ! hair plays no "p at all1 s9ce x is entirely remov$ f ! pelt4 ,! fundam5tal po9ts ( resemblance betwe5 lea!r manufacture & fur dress+ are 9 ^? processes & op]ations :i* are conc]n$ ) ! pres]vation ( ! lea!r1 & r5d]+ x 9 ! prop] condition = use4 ,bo? lea!r dress+ & fur dress+ h an orig9 :i* may be reg>d$ z id5tical1 & :i* dates back to ! hazie/ p]iods ( antiquity4 ,9 ! c\rse ( satisfy+ 8 ne$s1 primitive man kill$ ! animals ab\t him1 & ?us obta9$ 8 food4 ,! kill$ animal also furni%$ a sk91 :i* aft] und]go+ c]ta9 manipulations & o!r treatm5ts1 c\ld s]ve z a protective cov]+1 ornam5t1 or def5sive weapon4 ,s9ce ! sk9 9 its natural /ate 0 h>dly fit = use because ( its easy t5d5cy to putrefaction1 x is evid5t t man _h to f9d "s means ( prev5t+ ?is decay 9 a m or less p]man5t fa%ion1 & moreov] _h to treat ! sk9 s t x w\ld be suitable = use1 by r5d]+ x s(t & flexible4 ,! discov]y ( means to accompli% ^! purposes 0 probably "o ( ! fir/ great /eps =w>d on ! pa? ( progress & civilization4 ,!re are evid5ces ( ! use ( animal sk9s 9 ! e>lie/ p]iods ( antiquity1 9 fact x is a usage :i* may be lit]ally reg>d$ z 8old z ! hills40 ,"o ( ! e>lie/ writt5 records ( ! employm5t ( ! sk9s ( animals z g>m5ts1 is 9 ! ,old ,te/am5t1 :]e x /ates1 8,unto ,adam & to 8 wife did ! ,"l ,god make coats ( sk9s1 & clo!d !m40 ,num]\s o!r biblical ref]5ces indicate ! use ( animal sk9s = v>i\s purposes1 sometimes prep>$ z lea!r1 ) ! hair remov$4 ,among ! ,egyptians tann+ seems to h be5 a common occupation4 ,! p>ticul>ly attractive sk9s1 l ^? ( ! leop>d or pan!r1 7 especially priz$1 & 7 made up z furs = ornam5tal we>1 rugs & decorations4 ,! less valuable sk9s 7 unhair$ & made into lea!r4 ,al?\gh ! tann+ or lea!r-produc+ processes ( ! ,egyptians are q unkn[n1 num]\s figures engrav$ 9 /one af=d an indication to "s ( ! manipulatory op]ations1 su* z soak+ ! sk9s1 fle%+1 s(t5+ ) /ones1 /ret*+ ov] a ?ree-legg$ wood5 8horse10 etc4 ,_m articles1 made ( lea!r1 h be5 f\nd 9 ! v>i\s ,egyptian s>cophagi1 & all are 9 a spl5did /ate ( pres]vation1 aft] =ty c5turies1 !reby indicat+ a v effici5t me?od ( dress+ animal sk9s4 ,likewise1 ! pres5ce 9 ! museums ( v>i\s articles1 lea!r & fur1 ( ,assyrian1 ,pho5ician & ,p]sian orig91 t5ds to %[ t ^! peoples also possess$ a consid]able degree ( pr(ici5cy 9 tann+4 ,frequ5t ref]5ces 9 ! ,greek lit]ature %[ t leop>d & lion sk9s 7 worn z w> cloaks1 & !y und\bt$ly 7 prop]ly made4 ,9 ! ,iliad is describ$ an op]ation = ! prep>ation ( sk9s = use z g>m5ts1 & ! me?od seems to be a sort ( *amois dress+4 ,! fir/ me?od ( tann+ sk9s 01 9 all probability1 t ( rubb+ into ! sk9s v>i\s fatty mat]ials f\nd close at h&1 su* z p>ts ( ! animal1 fat1 bra9s1 milk1 excrem5t1 etc41 su* an op]ation con/itut+ ! basis ( :at is n[ kn[n z ! *amois dress+4 ,"o ( ! reasons = believ+ t x 0 ! fir/ process to be us$ by primitive man1 is ! fact t c]ta9 undevelop$ tribes & races ( ! pres5t day /ill dress sk9s by x4 ,! ,am]ican ,indians1 ev5 to ?is day prep>e sk9s by rubb+ 91 on ! fle% side1 ! bra9s ( ! animals :i* furni%$ ! sk9s4 ,! ,eskimos dress sk9s by rubb+ 9 animal fats or fi%-oil1 & subsequ5tly s(t5+ & /ret*+ ! sk9s ) _! tee? 9 place (1 or = want ( o!r implem5ts4 ,usually1 h[ev]1 v>i\sly %ap$ /ones or bones ( animals are us$ to obta9 ! prop] degree ( s(tness & flexibility4 ,x is true1 too1 t "s ( ! sk9s dress$ 9 ?is primitive fa%ion c sc>cely be excell$ by any dress$ ) m mod]n processes & tann+ me?ods4 ,! next /ep =w>d 9 ! prep>ation ( animal sk9s = use 0 und\bt$ly ! utilization ( sub/ances f\nd 9 ! e>?4 ,common salt1 sodium *loride1 0 ! mo/ univ]sally us$ sub/ance ( m9]al orig91 j z x is today4 ,our prehi/oric ance/ors ev5tually discov]$ ! pres]vative action ( salt1 & appli$ x to sk9s4 ,:ile x 0 effective1 x 0 n suffici5tly p]man5t1 s ano!r m9]al1 also ( v common & wide occurr5ce 0 us$ 9 comb9ation ) ! salt1 & ! result prov$ q satisfactory4 ,?is second common m9]al 0 alum4 ,! use ( alum1 :i* is ! basis ( num]\s tann+ processes to ?is day1 seems to h be5 q a popul> me?od ( anci5t times4 ,artemidorus1 a ,greco-,roman writ]1 m5tions ! use ( alum by ! ,greeks1 & ! ,romans are kn[n to h prep>$ a s(t1 flexible lea!r call$ aluta 7alum lea!r71 by us+ x4 ,9 view ( ! fact t ,egypt _h ext5sive deposits ( alum1 x is believ$ t ! alum-salt process 0 employ$ also by ! ,egyptians 9 ! prep>ation ( lea!r4 ,h[ev]1 ! evid5ce on ?is po9t is n conclusive4 ,"o ( ! mo/ important me?ods ( produc+ lea!r1 ei!r z su* or on furs1 0 ) ! aid ( c]ta9 vegetable extracts1 kn[n z ! tann9s1 f :i* ! process ( tann+ gets its "n4 ,! discov]y ( ! value ( ^! mat]ials = conv]t+ ! decay+ raw sk9 into a lea!r :i* c\ld be pres]v$ = an almo/ indef9ite l5g? ( "t1 & :i* 0 flexible & s(t z desir$1 0 ( f>-rea*+ importance4 ,= x is only 9 v rec5t times t ^! tann9s h be5 sup]s$$ 9 "p by new tann+ sub/ances ^: use is simpl] & m "t-sav+4 ,yet !re are unmi/akable indications t ! tann9s 7 employ$ = tann+ at a p]iod :i* rea*es back to ! dawn ( hi/ory4 ,al?\gh x is sc>cely probable t ! p :o us$ ^! mat]ials c\ld h kn[n ( ! exi/5ce or ! nature ( ! p>ticul> sub/ances 9 ! vegetable extracts :i* actually effect ! tann+ action1 exp]i5ce taught !m to employ ^! plants :i* possess$ ! highe/ cont5t ( active +r$i5ts1 & :i*1 consequ5tly1 7 mo/ effective 9 use4 ,ty*ios1 ( ,boetius1 a ,greek suppos$ to h liv$ ab\t #ijj ,b4,c4 & m5tion$ 9 ! ,iliad1 is consid]$ ! olde/ kn[n tann]1 & 0 reg>d$ by ,pl9y1 a ,roman writ]1 z ! discov]] ( tann+1 & ( ! use ( ! v>i\s vegetable tann+ mat]ials4 ,at any rate1 ! ,greeks us$ ! leaves ( a s-call$ tann+-tree1 :i* 0 probably ! suma*4 ,! ,egyptians work$ ) ! acacia1 :ile ! ,romans us$ z tann+ mat]ials ! b>ks ( ! p9e1 ald] & pomegranate trees1 also nut-galls1 suma* & acorns4 ,! ,romans 7 quick to employ me?ods us$ by ! peoples :om !y conqu]$1 & x is 9 ?is way t !y le>n$ ! use ( _m ( ! plants m5tion$1 = tann+ purposes4 ,_m o!r anci5t peoples _h v>i\s processes ( tann+1 ! me?ods probably diff]+ 9 ea* c\ntry4 ,?us ! ,*9ese1 ,syrians1 & mu* lat]1 ! ,moors1 7 ea* kn[n = pr(ici5cy 9 a c]ta9 class ( lea!r tann+4 ,x has be5 said t 9 g5]al1 ev5 up to mod]n times1 tann+ ) nut-galls 0 ! *>act]i/ic me?od ( ! ,ori5t2 ) oak-tan1 t ( ! ,occid5t1 :ile ! use ( alum is reg>d$ z ! me?od peculi> to ! ,s>ac5s4 ,9 prehi/oric times & ! e>ly c5turies ( civilization1 sk9s or pelts 7 prep>$ = use by ! individual1 ! "w usually be+ done by ! h\sewife & daught]s1 :ile ! mascul9e memb]s ( ! family 7 engag$ 9 hunt+ ! animals & obta9+ ! sk9s4 ,at a lat] p]iod1 :5 p _h advanc$ to ! po9t :]e !y liv$ 9 cities1 ! prep>+ or dress+ ( sk9s became c5t]$ 9 ! h&s ( a comp>atively small numb] ( p1 & ?us ! "w took on ! aspects ( a trade4 ,! work]s 9 fur 7 at fir/ ! same p :o made lea!r out ( ! sk91 = ! two k9ds ( "w 7 v closely associat$4 ,dur+ ! p]iod ( ! ,roman supremacy1 hi/orical records %[ t ! furri]s1 :o did all ! "w connect$ ) furs1 f pur*as+ ! raw sk9s1 dress+ !m1 mak+ !m into g>m5ts1 to sell+ ! latt]1 7 organiz$ into associations toge!r ) ! lea!r work]s4 ,aft] ! fall ( ! ,roman empire1 & ?r\gh\t ! c5turies kn[n z ! ,d>k ,ages1 all traces ( ! furri]s seem to h be5 lo/1 b 9 ! beg9n+ ( ! ,r5aissance p]iod 9 ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies1 we aga9 f9d records ( ! furri]s1 :o 7 n[ all memb]s ( ! furri]s' guilds1 also 9 association ) ! lea!r work]s4 ,z =m]ly1 all ! "w connect$ ) ! production ( fur app>el f ! raw furs1 0 done by ! ma/] furri] & 8 appr5tices4 ,! me?ods & ! implem5ts us$1 7 ess5tially ! same z 9 ,roman times1 & 9 fact1 up to a v rec5t p]iod !re 0 v little *ange 9 ei!r4 ,) ! adv5t ( ! great indu/rial era at ! beg9n+ ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 ! guild sy/em became ineffective1 b ! furri]s cont9u$ _! "w z h]et(ore4 ,up to ab\t ! middle ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 ! furri] cont9u$ to be ! only factor ( any importance 9 ! fur trade4 ,!re 0 no ne$ = spe$ 9 8 "w1 = ! dem&s ( ! trade 7 n s urg5t4 ,! fact t ! dress+ ( furs (t5 occupi$ two to f\r weeks 0 no det]r+ factor 9 8 bus9ess4 ,h[ev]1 ) ! great expansion ( ! fur trade ab\t ?is "t1 x became impossible = ! individual furri] to d ev]y?+ himself1 & keep up ) ! requirem5ts ( 8 cu/om]s4 ,specialization comm5c$1 & e/abli%m5ts 7 set up solely = fur dress+4 ,! traditional "t- & labor-consum+ processes 7 /ill us$1 b ! effici5cy ( "w on a l>ge scale enabl$ ! fur dress]s successfully to fill _! ord]s4 ,b ! fur trade cont9u$ to gr[ by leaps & b\nds1 & v soon ! fur dress]s 7 no long] able to meet ! dem&s ( ! trade4 ,x 0 !n t ! sci5ce ( *emi/ry came to ! aid ( ! fur dress]1 & help$ him meet ! exig5cy4 ,by devis+ dress+ processes :i* 7 *eap & effici5t1 & :i* only requir$ sev]al h\rs1 or at ! mo/ "o or two days1 z comp>$ ) z _m weeks1 ! *emi/ br\ght ! fur dress] out ( 8 dilemma4 ,& ) ! adoption ( me*anical "t- & labor-sav+ devices1 ! fur dress+ indu/ry has made wond]ful progress4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,fur ,,dress+ ,,prelim9>y ,,op]ations ,! fur dress] receives ! sk9s 9 "o ( two %apes1 flat or cas$1 dep5d+ on ! mann] 9 :i* !y 7 remov$ f ! animal4 ,flat sk9s1 z = example1 beav]1 are obta9$ by cutt+ on ! "u side ( ! animal f ! root ( ! tail to ! *91 & along ! inn] side ( ! legs f ! foot to ! fir/ cut4 ,! sk9s are ei!r fa/5$ to bo>ds or atta*$ to wood5 hoops slightly l>g] ?an ! sk9s1 s z to /ret* !m1 & are !n c>efully dri$1 avoid+ direct sun%9e or artificial heat1 z x is v easy to ov]heat ! sk9s & !reby ru9 !m4 ,! great majority ( sk9s1 h[ev]1 are cas$4 ,! pelts are cut on ! "u side ( ! tail1 & along ! h9d legs across ! body1 ! sk9 be+ !n remov$ by pull+ x ov] ! head (f ! body l a glove1 trimm+ c>efully ab\t ! e>s & nose4 ,! sk9 is ?us obta9$ inside out1 & is drawn ov] a /ret*+ bo>d or wire /ret*] ( suitable %ape & dim5sions1 s z to all[ ! sk9 to dry )\t wr9kl+4 ,! pelts1 aft] dry+ 9 a dry1 airy place1 are remov$ f ! /ret*]s & are ready = ! m>ket4 ,) "s furs1 z foxes1 ! sk9s are turn$ hair-side out :ile /ill some:at moi/1 & !n put on ! /ret*] aga9 till fully dri$4 ,9 mo/ cases1 h[ev]1 sk9s are sold fle%-side out4 ,?r\gh\t ! v>i\s dress+ op]ations cas$ sk9s are kept intact1 be+ turn$ fle%-side out or hair-side out accord+ z ! processes are direct$ to ! respective sides4 ,! pelts are only cut op5 if !y h to be dy$1 or aft] ! manufactur] receives !m1 :5 !y h to be work$ into manufactur$ g>m5ts4 ,a di/9ction :i* is made by fur dress]s & dy]s1 & also by ! fur trade 9 g5]al1 divides furs into ^? d]iv$ f dome/ic animals1 p>ticul>ly ! v>i\s k9ds ( %eep1 includ+ also ! goat species1 & ^? obta9$ f o!r animals by trapp+4 ,9 fact1 at "o "t1 & to a c]ta9 ext5t ev5 to-day1 dress]s 7 divid$ into two gr\ps bas$ on ?is di/9ction1 "o class deal+ only ) furs obta9$ f ! %eep family1 & ! o!r work+ ) o!r k9ds ( furs4 ,?is diff]5tiation is n a simple arbitr>y "o1 b has a rational ju/ification4 ,z m5tion$ be=e1 ! mann] & habit ( liv+ ( ! animal are important factors 9 det]m9+ ! nature & con/itution ( its sk91 bo? lea!r & hair4 ,! /ructure ( ! body be+ dep5d5t prim>ily ^u ! nature ( ! food absorb$ by ! animal1 x is only natural t h]bivor\s or vegetable-eat+ animals su* z %eep & goats1 %\ld possess fur ( a diff]5t sort f t ( ! c>nivor\s or meat-eat+ animals1 su* z ! majority ( fur-be>]s are4 ,x also seems cle> t furs diff]+ 9 _! "* & con/itution %\ld require some:at diff]5t treatm5ts1 & accord+ly ! me?ods are modifi$ :5 furs l lambs or goats are dress$4 ,to a great ext5t1 h[ev]1 ! fundam5tal op]ations are simil> = all furs1 reg>dless ( nature or orig91 & ^! w be discuss$ briefly4 ,inasmu* z ! fir/ great purpose ( fur dress+ is to r5d] ! sk9s m or less p]man5tly immune f ! processes ( decay1 x is necess>y to prep>e ! pelts s z to be mo/ fit to receive ! pres]v+ treatm5t4 ,! sk9s z !y are deliv]$ to ! fur dress] h1 9 ! majority ( cases1 be5 /ret*$ & dri$ to pres]ve !m tempor>ily1 :ile 9 "s in/ances1 especially ) ! l>g] furs l be>s & seals1 !y are salt$ & kept moi/4 ,! fle%-side ( ! pelt /ill has consid]able fle%y & fatty tissues adh]+ to x1 & ! hair is g5]ally soil$ & occasionally blood-/a9$4 ,9 ord] to get ! pelts into su* a condition t !y c be work$ & manipulat$1 !y fir/ h to be made s(t & flexible4 ,v greasy sk9s are scrap$ raw 9 ord] to remove z mu* z possible ( ! atta*$ fat1 ! op]ation be+ kn[n z beam+ or scrap+4 ,! typical beam1 %[n 9 ,fig4 #c1 consi/s ( a slop+ table usually made ( "s h>d wood1 & plac$ at an angle ( ab\t #de4 ,x is g5]ally flat1 al?\gh 9 "s in/ances convex beams are also us$1 ab\t a y>d long1 #h to #aj in*es wide1 & firmly support$ at ! upp] end4 ,! sk9 is plac$ on ! beam1 fle%-side up1 & is scrap$ ) a two-h&l$ knife 7,fig4 #d71 always 9 a d[nw>d direction4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c4 ,,beam4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #d4 ,,knives ,,us$ ,,9 ,,fur ,,dress+4 ,! fir/ /ep 9 s(t5+ ! sk9s is to get !m ?or\ghly moi/5$1 & ?is is v>i\sly done1 dep5d+ on ! nature ( ! sk94 ,lambs1 = example1 require ! g5tle/ means ( wett+ !m1 :ile rabbits c /& soak+ 9 wat] = sev]al days4 ,! mann] & duration ( moi/5+ mu/ be adju/$ to ! "* ( ! pelt4 ,= ! putrefactive processes :i* 7 /opp$ by /ret*+ & dry+ ! sk9s1 cont9ue z soon z ! pelt is aga9 moi/5$4 ,! progress ( decay causes ! evolution ( c]ta9 gases1 ! simple/ ( :i* is ammonia1 & ev5tually1 if p]mitt$ to proce$1 br+s ab\t ! complete dis9tegration ( ! sk9 tissue4 ,x has be5 f\nd t a c]ta9 am\nt ( gas =mation is necess>y to loos5 up ! fibres 9 ord] to get ! be/ quality ( lea!r aft] tann+4 ,?is process mu/ be int]rupt$ at ! prop] "t & n all[$ to proce$ too f>4 ,sk9s :i* h be5 pres]v$ fre% by salt+1 require only a comp>atively %ort "t 7ab\t #b h\rs7 to become s(t5$ by soak+ 9 clean1 s(t wat]4 ,mo/ dri$ sk9s ne$ a long] treatm5t be=e !y are suffici5tly flexible4 ,! addition ( c]ta9 sub/ances to ! wat] facilitates & accel]ates ! s(t5+4 ,9 "s in/ances salt wat] is us$ = soak+ ! pelts1 ! pres]vative action ( ! salt t5d+ to prev5t any loos5+ ( ! hair4 ,a solution ( #a_/d borax is v effective 9 r5d]+ ! sk9s s(t1 & clean z well4 ,borax has an exce$+ly mild alkal9e action1 & causes a slight swell+ ( ! sk9 tissue1 :i* !n absorbs ! wat] m readily4 ,be+ also pres]vative & antiseptic1 borax t5ds to prev5t decomposition ( ! sk9 tissue4 ,ano!r *emical ( a diff]5t nature1 b equally effective is =mic acid1 us$ 9 ! proportion ( #a4e-b4e p>ts p] #ajjj p>ts ( wat]4 ,=mic acid also induces a swell+ ( ! sk91 ! pelts be+ soak$ 9 a %ort "t1 & ! antiseptic action ( ! acid obviates ! possibility ( ! hair becom+ loose4 ,! wat] us$ %\ld be fre% & clean1 & ! soak+ mu/ be /opp$ z soon z ! sk9s h become s(t & flexible4 ,sometimes ! sk9s are all[$ to soak ov]night 9 wat]1 :ile 9 o!r cases1 ! pelts are j moi/5$ by dipp+ 9 wat] until ?or\ghly wet1 & !n lay+ !m 9 a pile = sev]al h\rs1 or ov]night4 ,ano!r me?od :i* is practis$ ) c]ta9 types ( sk9s is ! use ( wet sawdu/ or ( sawdu/ moi/5$ ) salt wat]4 ,! fur sk9s are ei!r emb$d$ 9 ! sawdu/ or drumm$ ) x = sev]al h\rs1 or until suffici5t moi/ure has be5 absorb$ to r5d] !m flexible4 ,by ?is means !re is no dang] ( ! sk9s be+ ov]-soak$1 or ( ! hair be+ loos5$4 ,:5 ! sk9s h be5 prop]ly wett$1 !y are drawn ) ! fle%-side across ! edge ( a dull knife-blade1 9 ord] to help loos5 ! texture ( ! sk94 ,!y are !n put into a tramp+ ma*9e & work$ until completely s(t5$4 ,9 ! case ( l>ge or heavy sk9s1 ! moi/5$ pelts are work$ on ! beam ) a dull beam+ knife to imp>t ?or\gh s(tness & flexibility4 ,! pelts are !n clean$ ) p>ticul> ref]5ce to ! hair4 ,) "s furs ?is is accompli%$ simply by drumm+ = sev]al h\rs ) dry sawdu/1 :]eby ! oil & dirt are remov$ f ! hair1 & ! hair is !n fre$ f ! sawdu/ by cag+4 ,o!r sk9s are wa%$1 be+ pass$ ?r\gh a weak soap solution = a %ort "t1 ! dirty spots be+ bru%$4 ,occasionally an extract ( soap-b>k is us$ 9 place ( ! soap1 be+ ev5 m effective4 ,! cleans$ sk9s are !n ?or\ghly r9s$ to remove any ( ! clean+ mat]ial1 :i* w\ld affect ! gloss ( ! hair if all[$ to rema9 on ! sk9s4 ,!n 9 ord] to elim9ate z mu* z possible ( ! wat] 9 ! sk9s1 !y are hydro-extract$1 a c5trifugal ma*9e ( ! type %[n 9 ,fig4 #e be+ us$4 ,! basis ( its action dep5ds on ! utilization ( ! pr9ciple ( c5trifugal =ce4 ,! ma*9e consi/s ess5tially ( a p]=at$ metal basket g5]ally made ( copp]1 capable ( be+ rotat$ at a high spe$4 ,surr\nd+ ! basket is an iron framework1 poli%$ or enamell$ on ! inside4 ,! wet sk9s are plac$ 9 ! rotat+ basket1 fur side t[>d ! p]=ations1 & ! wat] :i* is ?r[n (f f ! sk9s passes ?r\gh ! little holes1 & is caught up on ! walls ( ! outside frame1 f :]e x is l$ (f ?r\gh suitable ducts4 ,! c5trifugal device is prop]ly equipp$ ) balanc+ & regulat+ atta*m5ts1 z well z ) a brake4 ,! p[] may be appli$ by ! ov]-drive or ! "u-drive z is mo/ desirable 9 ! p>ticul> case4 ,! inn] surface ( ! basket c also be enamell$ or o!rwise made resi/ant to ! action ( acids or o!r *emicals4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #e4 ,,c5trifugal ,,ma*9e4 7,flet*] ,works1 ,inc41 ,philadelphia7 ,:5 ! sk9 is remov$ f ! animal1 z mu* z possible ( ! adh]+ fat & fle% is scrap$ (f1 b 9 spite ( ?is1 & 9 spite ( subsequ5t beam+ by ! fur dress]1 !re is always a ?9 lay] ( fle% & fatty mat]ial rema9+ & ?is mu/ be remov$ s z to expose ! corium1 enabl+ ! effici5t action ( ! *emicals us$ 9 ! tann+ processes4 ,! process ( remov+ ?is undesirable lay] f ! fle%-side is kn[n z fle%+4 ,x is a r delicate op]ation1 requir+ consid]able exp]i5ce & dext]ity on ! "p ( ! work]1 = x is exce$+ly easy to cut into ! sk9 & damage ! fur4 ,a fle%+ knife ( ! type commonly us$ is %[n 9 ,fig4 #f4 ,x consi/s ( a %>p blade fa/5$ at a slight angle f ! v]tical1 ) ! cutt+ edge away f ! workman1 :o /raddles ! b5*1 & by draw+ ! sk9s back & =? across ! edge ( ! blade1 removes all fle% & fat1 leav+ ! corium free & clean4 ,l>ge sk9s _c conv5i5tly be fle%$ 9 ?is fa%ion4 ,!y are plac$ on ! beam1 & fle%$ ) a fle%+ or skiv+ knife simil> to ! beam+ knife1 b consi/+ ( a slightly curv$1 %>p two-edg$ blade hav+ h&les at bo? ends4 ,frequ5t attempts h be5 made to use suitable ma*9es to d ?is "w4 ,a type ( ma*9e :i* has met ) consid]able success is depict$ 9 ,fig4 #g4 ,x is fa%ion$ aft] ! models us$ = ! fle%+ ( hides = lea!r manufacture1 & has special adju/m5ts & regulat+ devices :i* af=d protection = ! hair "p ( ! fur4 ,f "t to "t o!r fle%+ ma*9es are put on ! m>ket1 yet none ( !m seems to enjoy any great popul>ity1 = fle%+ is /ill l>gely a manual op]ation4 ,) "s classes ( pelts1 fle%+ pres5ts "s difficulties1 & *emical means h to be resort$ to 9 ord] to loos5 ! fle% suffici5tly to enable prop] fle%+4 ,9 ! case ( l>ge furs l be>s1 leop>ds1 & ! l1 :i* :ile ( no great importance 9 ! fur trade1 are occasionally met by ! fur dress]1 ! sk9s aft] be+ soak$1 & wa%$ ) soap-wat]1 are p>tially dri$2 !n ! fle%-side is treat$ ) te*nical butt] or oil1 :i* is tramp$ 94 ,a mixture ( salt wat] & bran is !n appli$ to ! sk9s1 !reby caus+ a swell+ action to set 91 & ! fle% becomes loos5$1 & is easily remov$ by fle%+ on ! beam4 ,seals receive a special treatm5t :i* makes !m s(t1 & gives !m great] /ret* aft] !y are tann$4 ,a pa/e made by mix+ a v dilute solution ( cau/ic soda ) an in]t sub/ance l ,fr5* *alk1 *9a clay1 etc41 is appli$ to ! corium aft] ! sk9s h be5 fle%$1 !n ! pelts are fold$ up1 & all[$ to lie = sev]al h\rs4 ,!y are !n ent]$ into a dilute solution ( calcium *loride & left ov]night4 ,aft] be+ wa%$ 9 a paddle or drum1 fir/ ) fre% wat]1 & !n 9 wat] conta9+ lactic or =mic acid to remove ! lime1 ! sk9s are ready = tann+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #f4 ,,fle%+ ,,knife ,,on ,,b5*4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #g4 ,,fle%+ ,,ma*9e4 7,turn] ,tann+ ,ma*9]y ,co41 ,peabody1 ,mass47 ,,*apt] ,v ,,fur ,,dress+ ,,tann+ ,,me?ods ,aft] ! pelts h gone ?r\gh ! prelim9>y op]ations ( s(t5+1 wa%+ & fle%+1 !y are ready to receive ! treatm5t :i* w conv]t ! easily decompos+ sk9 into lea!r ( m or less p]man5cy1 dep5d+ on ! me?od us$4 ,dur+ ! pa/ c5tury1 consid]able /udy has be5 made bo? by sci5tific & te*nical p1 ( ! problem ( lea!r =mation4 ,num]\s !ories z to ! nature ( ! process h be5 evolv$1 b ev5 to ?is day1 no satisfactory explanation has be5 giv5 :i* w\ld acc\nt = all ! facts z !y are n[ kn[n1 s ! matt] is /ill a subject ( consid]able controv]sy4 ,proct]1 :o is "o ( ! lead+ au?orities on lea!r today discusses ! developm5t ( ! tann+ !ories z foll[s3 8,! cause ( ! horny nature ( dri$ sk9 is t ! gelat9\s & swoll5 fibres ( :i* x is compos$ n m]ely /iff5 on dry+ b adh]e to a homog5e\s mass1 z is evid5c$ by its transluc5ce4 ,if 9 "s way we c prev5t ! adhesion ( ! fibres :ile dry+ we %all h made a /ep 9 ! desir$ direction1 & ?is w be ! m effective ! m p]fectly we h split ! fibre-bundles into _! con/itu5t f9e fibrils1 & remov$ ! sub/ance :i* cem5ts !m4 ,! sep>ation ( ! fibres c be p>tially atta9$ by purely me*anical means4444 ,knapp1 to :om we owe our fir/ intelligible !ories ( ! tann+ process1 %[$ t by physical means ! sep>ation & dry+ ( ! fibres c\ld be s f> effect$ z to produce )\t any tann+ ag5t a sub/ance ) all ! outw>d *>act]i/ics ( lea!r1 al?\gh on soak+ x return$ completely to ! raw hide /ate4 ,he soak$ ! prep>$ pelt 9 absolute alcohol1 :i* p5etrat$ betwe51 & sep>at$ ! fibres & at ! same "t dri$ !m by its /rong aff9ity = wat]4 ,m rec5tly1 ,meuni] has obta9$ a simil> result by ! use ( a conc5trat$ solution ( potassium c>bonate :i* is ev5 m /rongly dehydrat+4 8,knapp made a fur!r /ep by add+ to 8 alcohol a small quantity ( /e>ic acid :i*1 z ! alcohol evaporat$1 left a ?9 fatty cov]+ on ! fibres :i* completely prev5t$ _! adhesion1 & r$uc$ _! t5d5cy to absorb wat]2 & he s produc$ a v s(t & :ite lea!r4 ,some:at simil> are ! pr9ciples ( ! _m primitive me?ods :i* apply fatty & album9\s matt]s1 grease1 butt]1 milk1 or bra9s to ! wet sk91 & by me*anical knead+ & /ret*+1 aid$ by capill>ity1 "w ^! matt]s 9 betwe5 ! fibres z ! wat] evaporates4 ,su* me?ods are /ill us$1 & ent] into _m processes 9 :i* o!r tann+ ag5ts are also employ$4 8,build+ ^u ^! facts1 ,pr(4 ,knapp advanc$ ! !ory t ! effect ( all tann+ processes 0 n to cause a *ange 9 ! fibres !mselves1 *emical or o!rwise1 b m]ely to isolate & coat !m ) wat]-resi/+ mat]ials :i* prev5t$ _! subsequ5t swell+ & adhesion4 ,true z ?is !ory und\bt$ly is 9 _m cases1 x c h>dly be accept$ z ! :ole tru?1 & x seems inconte/able t frequ5tly ! fibres !mselves und]go actual *emical *anges :i* r5d] !m insoluble & nonadhesive4 8,be=e ,knapp's "w1 ! preval5t !ory1 at lea/ z reg>ds vegetable tannage1 _h be5 a *emical "o1 />t$ by ,sir ,humphrey ,davy4 ,if a solution ( gelat9e be mix$ 9 prop] proportion ) "o ( tann91 bo? unite to =m a volum9\s curdy precipitate2 &1 accord+ to ,davy's ideas1 ?is 0 amorph\s lea!r4 ,aga9/ ?is1 x 0 urg$ t ev5 ! suppos$ #8tannate ( gelat9e' itself c\ld n be a true *emical comp\nd1 s9ce ! proportions ( its con/itu5ts 7 consid]ably v>i$ by *anges 9 ! /r5g? ( ! solutions1 or by wa%+ ! precipitate ) hot wat]2 & fur!r1 t 9 *emical comp\nds1 ! =m 0 *ang$1 & no trace ( ! orig9al con/itu5ts appe>$ 9 ! comp\nd2 :ile 9 lea!r ap>t f "s *ange ( color & prop]ties1 ! orig9al fibr\s /ructure rema9$ unalt]$4 8,?is reason+ appe>s mu* less conclusive n[ ?an x did 9 ,knapp's day4 ,aga9/ ! la/ objection guncotton may be quot$ z an in/ance ( pr(\nd *emical *ange ) no alt]ation 9 outside appe>ance2 & x is recogniz$ t1 especially among complex organic sub/ances1 *emical reactions are r>ely complete1 b t /able positions are rea*$1 s-call$ #8equilibria1' 9 :i* ! proportion ( *ang$ & un*ang$ sub/ance is dep5d5t on conc5tration or o!r conditions2 & t !re=e su* a precipitate might well be a mixture ( gelat9e ) a true gelat9e tannate f :i* fur!r portions ( tann9 might be dissociat$ by wat]4 8,) ! cle>+ up ( old difficulties1 h[ev]1 ! conflict betwe5 *emical & physical !ories has1 z is usually ! case1 m]ely pass$ into a new phase4 ,ye>s ago1 x 0 %[n by ,l9d] & ,picton & o!rs1 t liquids c\ld be obta9$ :i* 7 n really solutions ( ions or molecules1 b m]ely susp5sions l t ( clay 9 wat]1 or butt]-fat 9 milk2 b s f9ely divid$ z to appe> cle> & transp>5t1 & pass ?r\gh filt]s l true solutions4 ,lat]1 by means ( ! ultra-microscope _! discrete p>ticles h actually be5 made visible1 ea* ( !m consi/+ ( _m molecules ( ! susp5d$ sub/ance4 ,nev]!less1 ^! p>ticles h _m molecul> prop]ties1 possess+ plus or m9us electrical *>ges2 behav+ l l>ge ions "u ! influ5ce ( an electrical curr5t2 & mutually precipitat+ & neutraliz+ ea* o!r :5 positive & negative are br\ght toge!r4 ,su* solutions are call$ #8colloid1' & ^? ( gelat9e & tann9 are ( ! class1 s t x is n[ (t5 said t ! precipitation ( gelat9e by tann91 & ! fixation ( tann9 by gelat9\s fibre are m]ely #8colloidal' & #8physical1' & n #8*emical' ph5om5a4 ,admitt+ ! facts1 ! "q /ill arises :e!r ! di/9ction betwe5 *emical & physical is n "h "o )\t a diff]5ce2 & :e!r betwe5 ! purely ioniz$ dilute solution ( a salt & ! co>sely granul> clay susp5sion !re is any po9t :]e a def9ite l9e ( dem>cation c be drawn4 ,! writ] incl9es to ! view t !re is n2 & t ionic & colloidal comb9ations are extreme cases ( ! same laws1 bo? physical1 & bo? *emical40 ,!re are sev]al me?ods :i* are us$ 9 tann+ furs1 ea* hav+ its peculi> *>act]i/ics & qualities1 & possess+ individual advantages & disadvantages4 ,9 ord] to be able to judge ! m]its ( ! v>i\s processes1 x is necess>y to h a crit]ion :i* c s]ve z a basis ( ref]5ce4 ,fahrion1 a recogniz$ au?ority & inve/igator 9 ?is field1 gives a def9ition ( lea!r :i* is usually accept$ z a /&>d = comp>ison4 ,he says3 8,lea!r is animal sk91 :i* on soak+ 9 wat] & subsequ5t dry+ does n become h>d & t9ny1 b rema9s s(t & flexible2 :i* does n decay 9 ! pres5ce ( cold wat]2 & :i* does n yield any gelat9e on boil+ ) wat]40 ,:ile ! requirem5ts set =? 9 ?is /atem5t are ess5tial = lea!r1 & a compliance ) !m w\ld also be desirable = tann$ furs1 a some:at less rigor\s /&>d ( conditions to fulfil is satisfactory = ! g5]al ne$s & purposes ( furs4 ,! *ief qualities :i* tann$ furs mu/ possess1 ) p>ticul> ref]5ce to ! lea!r side ( ! pelt1 are ret5tion ( s(tness & flexibility aft] be+ moi/5$ by ! furri] = manufactur+ purposes1 & subsequ5t dry+2 & fre$om f a t5d5cy to decay dur+ ?is op]ation & !reaft]4 ,if ! furs are to be dy$1 ! effect ( ! dye+ mu/ also be consid]$1 & ! tann+ mu/ be su* z to enable ! dy$ furs to possess ! above qualities4 ,! mo/ important tann+ processes employ$ = furs are ! foll[+3 #a4 ,salt-acid tan1 or pickle4 #b4 ,m9]al tans4 #c4 ,*amois tan4 #d4 ,=maldehyde & simil> tans4 #e4 ,comb9ation tans4 #f4 ,vegetable tan4 #a4 ,,salt-,,acid ,,tan1 ,,or ,,pickle ,?is is "o ( ! mo/ ext5sively us$ me?ods = tann+ furs1 & is also v *eap & easily appli$4 ,a typical =mula = ?is tan is ! foll[+3 ,a solution ( salt is prep>$ conta9+ ab\t #aj ( common salt1 sodium *loride1 & to ?is is add$ #a_/b-c_/d ounce ( sulphuric acid = ea* gallon ( tann+ liquor4 ,! proportions may be v>i$ )9 c]ta9 limits1 b ! figures "h giv5 are ^? :i* h prov5 successful 9 practise4 ,! solution %\ld be made 9 a wood5 or e>!nw>e conta9]1 free f any metal1 z x w\ld be attack$ by ! acid4 ,! liquor is !n appli$ to ! fle%-side ( ! fle%$ sk9s by means ( a bru%1 mak+ sure to t\* all p>ts ( ! pelt4 ,!y are !n plac$ 9 a pile & all[$ to rema9 ?us until tann$1 an op]ation :i* occupies a "t rang+ f a few h\rs to two or ?ree days dep5d+ on ! ?ickness ( ! sk9s4 ,:5 ! corium has lo/ its transluc5ce & has become ( a milky-:ite color ?r\gh\t ! entire ?ickness ( ! sk91 z c be se5 by view+ a cross-section1 ! sk9 may be consid]$ tann$4 ,9 "s in/ances1 :]e ! hair ( ! fur c /& imm]sion )\t injury1 ! sk9s are ent]$ into ! pickl+ solution & all[$ to rema9 = #ab to #bd h\rs1 :i* is g5]ally a suffici5t "t to tan !m 9 ?is mann]4 ,! acid ( ! pickle causes ! sk9 to swell1 ! salt !n p5etrat+ betwe5 ! fibres ( ! corium1 & at ! same "t r$uc+ ! swell+ ( ! sk94 ,! acid also neutralizes ! alkal9e products ( decomposition :i* may =m1 :ile ! salt acts z a det]r5t to ! progress ( ! putrefactive processes4 ,:5 ! sk9 is dri$ aft] tann+1 & /ret*$ & f9i%$1 a s(t :ite lea!r is obta9$ :i* is p]man5t z long z x is kept dry4 ,x is ! salt :i* causes ! fibres ( ! sk9 to be completely diff]5tiat$ & ?us prev5ts _! adhesion4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t o!r acids besides sulphuric c be us$ = ! pickle1 organic z well z m9]al1 =mic acid 9 #a_/d solution be+ especially effective & giv+ excell5t results1 b is m exp5sive ?an ! m9]al acid4 ,a me?od1 :i* 9 pr9ciple is id5tical ) ! pickle1 b c>ri$ out 9 an entirely diff]5t mann]1 is ! lactic acid f]m5tation process1 or 8,s*rot-beize0 z x is call$ 9 ,g]man4 ,! proc$ure is 9 g5]al z foll[s3 8,! fle%$ sk9s are plac$ on tables1 fle%-side up1 & cov]$ ) a lay] ( bruis$ b>ley gra9s1 or a mixture ( #c p>ts ( :eat bran & #b p>ts ( rye fl\r4 ,!n ! head1 tail & legs are turn$ inw>d1 & ! sk9s roll$ up 9 little cu%ions1 hair-side out1 & plac$ 9 a vat4 ,:5 ?is is fill$ ) ! sk9s a solution ( common salt is p\r$ ov] !m1 & !y are all[$ to rema9 ?us 9 a mod]ately cool place = #bd h\rs4 ,aft] ?is "t1 ! sk9s are c>efully unroll$1 s z n to remove any ( ! adh]+ solid mat]ials1 & turn+ ! sk9s hair-side inw>d1 !y are laid flat toge!r 9 pairs & plac$ 9 an empty vat4 ,aft] ano!r #bd h\rs !y are aga9 unpack$ & replac$ 9 ano!r vat1 c>e be+ tak5 ea* "t to keep all ! solid p>ticles adh]+ to ! fle%-side4 ,?is op]ation is cont9u$ & repeat$ until ! sk9s are prop]ly tann$1 :i* takes f #aj to #ad days1 dep5d+ on ! wea!r & ! temp]ature4 ,! sk9s are !n remov$1 r9s$ free ( ! tann+ sub/ances1 press$1 dri$ & f9i%$40 ,a some:at modifi$ =m ( ?is process is ! s-call$ ,russian tan1 :i* is usually done 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 #e p>ts ( bruis$ b>ley gra9s are mix$ ) t5 p>ts ( luke-w>m wat] 9 a vat1 :i* is !n cov]$ up4 ,a small quantity ( brew]s' yea/ is also add$ to aid 9 ! f]m5tation4 ,z soon z ! mixture develops a slight heat1 "o "p ( fre% :ey is add$1 & ! fle%$ sk9s ent]$ into ! tann+ liquor 9 :i* !y rema9 = ab\t #ab h\rs4 ,!y are !n tramp$ 9 ! mixture s z to effect great] p5etration1 & left until ! tann+ process is complete4 ,:ey is ! milk fluid left aft] ! case9 & mo/ ( ! fat h be5 remov$ f ! milk by coagulation1 & consi/s practically ( a solution ( all ! milk-sug> or lactose1 & ! lactic acid ( ! milk1 toge!r ) a small p]c5tage ( m9]al salts1 & a slight am\nt ( fat4 ,by f]m5tation1 ! milk-sug> is conv]t$ into lactic acid1 :i* helps to effect ! tan by swell+ ! sk94 ,! effectiv5ess ( ! f]m5tation processes dep5ds to a consid]able degree on ! action ( c]ta9 bact]ia & yea/s4 ,bact]ia are "o-cell$ organisms belong+ to ! vegetable k+dom1 & "s are s small z to be sc>cely visible "u a microscope1 :ile "s inde$ _c be se5 by any means1 _! exi/5ce be+ inf]r$ f _! effects4 ,z !y v>y 9 size1 bact]ia also v>y 9 %ape1 "s be+ sph]ical1 o!rs 9 ! =m ( long1 ?9 rods1 :ile /ill o!rs are ( a spiral %ape2 ano!r common =m is ! dumb-bell %ap$ bact]ium4 ,"s types are provid$ ) :at are kn[n z flagella1 :i* resemble f9e hairs atta*$ to ! body ( ! organism1 & :i* enable x to move ab\t actively 9 liquids4 ,! food ( bact]ia is always 9 liquid =m1 z only 9 ?is condition c x be absorb$4 ,h[ev]1 "s k9ds ( bact]ia attack solid sub/ances f :i* !y obta9 _! n\ri%m5t1 b ?is is done 9 an indirect way1 by secret+ c]ta9 fluids kn[n z enzymes1 :i* dissolve or dige/ ! mat]ial & conv]t x into a =m t c easily be absorb$ by ! bact]ia4 ,! enzymes are non-liv+ *emical sub/ances1 :i* possess ! peculi> prop]ty ( br++ ab\t ! *emical *ange ( an almo/ indef9ite am\nt ( mat]ial ^u :i* !y act1 )\t !mselves be+ 9 any way *ang$4 ,yea/s also act 9 a mann] simil> to ! bact]ia 9 caus+ v>i\s *emical *anges1 p>ticul>ly induc+ fem5tations4 ,9 ! simple 8,s*rot-beize10 ! />* conta9$ 9 ! bran or b>ley gra9s is fir/ conv]t$ to a soluble sug> by means ( enzymes secret$ by ! bact]ia :i* are always pres5t4 ,?is sug> !n und]goes an acid f]m5tation1 ) ! =mation ( lactic & acetic acids1 due 9 ?is case to organisms kn[n z ! bact]ium furfuris ,a & ,b4 ,! action ( ! ,russian tan is simil>1 b quick]4 ,9 ?is case1 ! sug> is already pres5t 9 soluble =m1 & ! yea/ cells cause its f]m5tation ) ! production ( lactic acid4 ,9 bo? cases1 ! acids z !y =m swell & loos5 up ! sk9 fibres sl[ly1 ! salt p5etrat+ betwe5 !m1 & keep+ !m sep>at$ on dry+4 ,bo? me?ods give results :i* are equally good1 b by ! ,russian tan ! sk9s acquire a disagreeable odor1 :i* makes ?is me?od ( dress+ objectionable4 ,! lactic acid f]m5tation processes h an advantage ov] ! pickle1 9 t ! sl[ =mation ( weak organic acids ) _! gradual action produce a s(t] lea!r1 ) a g5tl] #8feel1' ! pres5ce ( ! fl\r & ! gra9s ( ! tan1 aside f _! tann+ action1 contribut+ to ! fullness & s(tness ( ! lea!r4 ,!re is also less likelihood ( ! lea!r be+ subsequ5tly affect$ by ! pres5ce ( ! acid 9 x1 z lactic & acetic acids are mu* less injuri\s ?an sulphuric acid to lea!r4 ,^! disadvantages ( ! pickle c to a l>ge degree1 be ov]come )\t any great difficulty4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! matt] ( ! l5g? ( "t ( ! tann+ process1 %[s ! acid pickle at a great advantage1 & s1 especially = furs o!r ?an ^? obta9$ f %eep & goats1 ! pickle is 9 mo/ cases us$ z ! pr9ciple me?od ( tann+4 ,9 ,au/ria1 ,russia1 & to a c]ta9 ext5t 9 ,g]many also1 ! 8,s*rot-beize0 is /ill consid]ably employ$1 *iefly = dress+ %eep & lamb sk9s4 ,! dress+ ( ! v>i\s k9ds ( ,p]sian lambs1 c>aculs1 a/ra*ans1 etc41 9 ! native c5t] ( ! indu/ry 9 ,bu*>a & surr\nd+ di/ricts1 is also a 8,s*rot-beize10 b>ley1 rice fl\r or rye fl\r1 & salt wat] be+ us$ to prep>e ! sk9s1 ! manipulations be+ ess5tially ! same z ^? describ$ above1 al?\gh c>ri$ out 9 crud] & m primitive fa%ion4 #b4 ,,m9]al ,,tans ,! basis ( ! tann+ ( furs by means ( solutions ( m9]al comp\nds is ! fact t ! basic salts ( c]ta9 metals are capable ( produc+ lea!r4 ,x has be5 f\nd t comp\nds ( alum9um su* z alum or alum9um sulphate1 or any o!r soluble neutral salt ( alum9um1 possess tann+ p[]s4 ,o!r metals :i* are capable ( =m+ salts ( ! same type are also end[$ ) ! quality ( conv]t+ sk9 to lea!r "u suitable conditions1 *romium & iron be+ ! mo/ important metals 9 ?is connection4 ,*emically ^! metals all belong to ! same gr\p1 & h prop]ties :i* are v simil> 9 _m respects1 ! *>act]i/ic ( mo/ importance = tann+ purposes be+ ! quality ( =m+ soluble basic salts by ! addition ( alkalies or alkal9e c>bonates to solutions ( _! neutral salts1 or 9 c]ta9 in/ances simply by ! action ( wat] ^u ^! neutral salts4 ,by neutral salts are meant ^? 9 :i* ! metallic cont5t is comb9$ ) ! normal proportion ( acid2 :ile basic salts are ^? 9 :i* ! acidic portion is pres5t 9 less ?an ! normal ratio1 be+ p>tially replac$ by a hydroxide gr\p4 ,:5 ! acid "p ( ! salt has be5 entirely replac$ 9 ?is way1 ! comp\nd is call$ a hydroxide or hydrate ( ! metal4 ,betwe5 ! neutral salt & ! hydroxide sev]al diff]5t basic salts are possible1 "s be+ soluble1 :ile o!rs are insoluble4 ,if into a solution conta9+ a basic salt ( ei!r alum9um1 iron or *romium a sk9 be ent]$1 a "p ( ! basic salt w be precipitat$ on x 9 insoluble =m4 ,inasmu* z neutral salts ( ^! metals :5 dissolv$ 9 wat] split up to a small degree1 into free acid & soluble basic salt1 a sk9 imm]s$ 9 su* a solution w also absorb ! basic salt 9 an insoluble =m4 ,^u ^! facts 9 g5]al1 dep5ds ! action ( ! m9]al tans us$ 9 tann+ furs4 ,a4 ,alum ,tan ,! alum tan is "o ( ! olde/ me?ods ( produc+ lea!r1 be+ employ$ by ! ,romans ab\t two ?\s& ye>s ago1 & x is believ$1 by ! ,egyptians at a mu* e>li] p]iod4 ,its ext5sive use 9 ,europe1 h[ev]1 dates f ! "t ( ! conque/ ( ,spa9 by ! ,moors1 :o introduc$ ! process4 ,at ! pres5t "t1 rabbits & moles are tann$ by ?is process1 z are also at times o!r furs su* z muskrats1 squirrels1 sables1 m>t5s1 etc41 :5 a bett] tan is desir$ ?an t produc$ by ! pickle4 ,ord9>y alum1 :i* is a d\ble sulphate ( alum9um & potassium1 & alum9um sulphate are ! *ief comp\nds us$ = ?is tan4 ,9 rec5t ye>s1 ! alum9um sulphate has to a consid]able degree replac$ ! alum = tann+1 inasmu* z x c be *eaply obta9$ 9 a suffici5tly pure =m1 & conta9s ab\t "o & "o-half times z mu* active alum9um comp\nd z does alum4 ,:ile ! alum9um salt c be us$ alone = tann+1 x produces a /iff1 imp]fect lea!r1 s salt is always add$4 ,! ratio ( ! salt to ! alum9um sulphate or alum c v>y )9 r wide limits1 ! mixtures us$ 9 practise rang+ f "o "p ( salt to f\r p>ts ( ! alum9um comp\nd1 up to equal p>ts ( bo?1 or ev5 9 "s =mulas1 a great] proportion ( salt ?an ( ! o!r con/itu5t4 ,ratios :i* are mo/ common are f\r ( alum to ?ree ( salt1 or two ( alum to "o ( salt4 ,:5 alum9um sulphate is dissolv$ 9 wat]1 a small "p ( x splits up into a soluble basic salt & an equival5t am\nt ( free acid4 ,! reaction may be %[n z foll[s3 ,al7,,s7 #b;,h,o ,al7,,s77,,oh7 ,h,,s alum9um wat] basic alum9um sulphuric sulphate sulphate acid ,:5 a sk9 is ent]$ into su* a solution1 ! free acid is absorb$1 caus+ a swell+ ( ! pelt4 ,:ile ?is is tak+ place1 a fur!r quantity ( ! neutral alum9um salt splits up into m basic salt & free acid4 ,at ! same "t ! basic alum9um sulphate is also tak5 up by ! sk91 probably atta*+ itself to "s ( ! acidic gr\ps conta9$ 9 ! sk9 sub/ance1 9 a mann] analog\s to ! comb9ation ( ! acid ) ! basic gr\ps ( ! sk9 sub/ance4 ,a po9t is rea*$1 h[ev]1 :5 ! sk9 is no long] able to take up m ( ! basic salt1 = ! pres5ce ( ! acid und\bt$ly acts z a det]r5t4 ,! sk91 if dri$ aft] su* a treatm5t conta9s a small am\nt ( alum9um1 :i* is insuffici5t to tan ! pelt prop]ly1 & z a result ?is comes out 9 an undesirable & q useless condition4 ,if to ! solution ( ! alum9um sulphate salt is add$1 a diff]5t result is obta9$4 ,to a c]ta9 ext5t ! salt acts "h z 9 ! pickle4 ,! sk9 on absorb+ ! free acid ( ! solution naturally swells1 b ! salt r$uces ?is swell+1 & at ! same "t1 by p5etrat+ betwe5 ! fibres & dehydrat+ !m1 produces a lea!r z 9 ! pickle4 ,9 addition1 ! pres5ce ( ! salt enables a great] am\nt ( basic alum9um sulphate to be =m$1 & ?us a great] quantity is tak5 up by ! sk94 ,on dry+ & /ret*+ aft] su* a treatm5t1 a s(t1 flexible & /ret*able lea!r is obta9$4 ,! numb] ( =mulas = tann+ furs by ?is process is legion1 ! pr9ciple be+ ! same 9 e in/ance1 & mixtures ( salt & alum or alum9um sulphate =m ! basis ( ! v>i\s tans4 ,foll[+ are a few typical =mulas1 :i* h be5 f\nd to be ( practical value3 ,a solution is prep>$ by dissolv+ #g4e lbs4 ( alum & #c lbs4 ( common salt 9 #bj gallons ( wat]4 ,:5 cool1 ! clean1 fle%$ sk9s are ent]$1 be+ paddl$ or drumm$ = a %ort "t & !n all[$ to rema9 until tann$4 ,by ?is me?od ! hair also takes up "s ( ! alum1 & if ! sk9s are to be dy$1 unev5ness may result4 ,9 ord] to avoid ?is1 ! tann+ may be effect$ by bru%+ a /rong] solution on ! pelt4 ,a mixture ( #d lbs4 ( alum & #c lbs4 ( salt1 dissolv$ 9 #h gallons ( wat]1 & made into a pa/e by ! addition ( #d lbs4 ( fl\r1 is appli$ to ! fle%-side ( ! sk9s4 ,^! are !n plac$ 9 pairs1 fle%-side toge!r1 & all[$ to rema9 9 a pile until tann$4 ,sometimes a second application is giv54 ,! fl\r may be omitt$1 b x s]ves to cause ! tann+ mixture to adh]e bett] to ! sk9s4 ,/ill ano!r me?od is ! foll[+3 ,into ! fle% ( ! moi/1 fle%$ sk9s is rubb$ a mixture ( two p>ts ( dry p[d]$ alum ) "o "p ( salt4 ,aft] all[+ "t = x to be absorb$1 ano!r application is giv51 rubb+ 9 well1 & especially treat+ ! ?ick p>ts4 ,! pelts are !n fold$ up1 or roll$ toge!r1 fle%-side 91 & plac$ 9 a vat or tub1 :i* is cov]$ up to prev5t dry+4 ,!y are left s until tann$1 z %[n by exam9ation & te/4 ,!y are !n r9s$1 hydro-extract$ & dri$1 & aft] /ret*+ & f9i%+1 a s(t1 :ite1 pliable lea!r is obta9$4 ,b4 ,*rome ,tan ,by us+ *rome alum in/ead ( ord9>y alum1 toge!r ) salt1 sk9s c be tann$1 b ! lea!r =m$ is n altoge!r satisfactory4 ,! basic pr9ciple "h is ! same z 9 ! alum tan1 dep5d+ on ! =mation ( soluble basic *rome sulphates 9 ! solution ( a neutral sulphate4 ,! me?od employ$ at ! pres5t "t1 ! s-call$ "o-ba? process z di/9ct f ! two-ba? process1 :i* _c be appli$ = tann+ furs1 involves ! production ( ! basic *rome sulphate by ! addition ( an alkali or an alkal9e c>bonate to ! solution ( ! neutral salt4 ,x 0 ,pr(4 ,knapp :o fir/ publi%$ ?is process z e>ly z #aheh2 b x 0 n until #ahic t x 0 %[n to be ( practical value1 & 0 !n pat5t$ 9 ?is c\ntry by ,m>t9 ,d5nis4 ,s9ce t "t x has be5 9 g5]al use ) b slight modifications4 ,! *rome tan is us$ only to a limit$ ext5t 9 ! tann+ ( furs1 ! me?od requir+ v c>eful treatm5t & accurate sup]vision dur+ ! v>i\s /ages ( ! process1 & ! lea!r com+ out color$ a pale-blue-gre5 t9t1 :i* = "s purposes is objectionable4 ,9 "s plants ponies & rabbits are tann$ ) *rome2 & :5 ! sk9s are to be dy$ by means ( c]ta9 coal t> dyes1 !y h to receive a *rome tannage4 ,! lea!r produc$ by a *rome tan is v durable1 & possesses great resi/ance to ! action ( wat]4 ,any salt ( *romium1 ) ei!r m9]al or organic acids1 c be us$1 b *rome alum is ! "o mo/ commonly employ$4 ,if a sk9 is ent]$ directly into a solution ( a *rome salt made basic ) an alkali1 ! precipitation ( ! insoluble basic salt w take place v rapidly1 & ! tann+ w be only sup]ficial4 ,! proc$ure is !re=e fir/ to treat ! sk9s ) a *rome solution :i* =ms only small quantities ( ! basic salt4 ,aft] ! sk9s are impregnat$ ) ! solution1 ?is is made basic1 s t ! real tan w take place )9 ! sk9 tissues among ! fibres ( ! corium4 ,a common =mula is ! foll[+3 #e lbs4 ( *rome alum are dissolv$ 9 #aj gallons ( wat]4 ,! sk9s are ent]$ into ! solution at ab\t #gj ,f4 & paddl$ = ab\t #b h\rs1 or drumm$ = "o h\r4 ,!n a solution ( ?ree p\nds ( wa%+ soda is add$ sl[ly to ! liquor :i* is !n /irr$ up well1 & ! sk9s drumm$ or paddl$ aga9 = an h\r or two1 & !n left 9 ! liquor = #ab to #bd h\rs till completely tann$4 ,! sk9s are r9s$1 & wa%$ 9 #a_/b solution conta9+ #b_/c ( ! weight ( ! sk9s ( borax4 ,! pelts are !n well wa%$ 9 clean wat]1 hydro-extract$ & dri$4 ,c4 ,iron ,tan ,tann+ by means ( iron salts has ?us f> be5 m]ely a matt] ( sci5tific int]e/ & has n f\nd any practical use4 ,! pr9ciple involv$ is id5tical ) t ( ! prec$+ m9]al processes4 #c4 ,,*amois ,,tan ,! *amois dress+1 z previ\sly not$1 is und\bt$ly ! olde/ me?od ( prep>+ lea!r f sk91 ! v>i\s fat-conta9+ sub/ances d]iv$ f animals1 fi%1 birds1 etc41 be+ us$ = ! purpose4 ,! *ief object ( ! fat 0 to coat ! fibres ( ! sk91 ?us prev5t+ _! adhesion1 & at ! same "t r5d]+ !m resi/ant to wat]4 ,9 ! true *amois tan1 ! fat seems to h also a *emical function 9 contradi/9ction to ! o!r :i* is m]ely physical or me*anical4 ,=1 if sk9s tann$ by ! *amois process be treat$ ) a weak solution ( an alkali1 all ! fatty mat]ials %\ld be remov$ !reby1 b ?is happ5s only to a small ext5t1 ! pelt reta9+ its s(tness & pliability1 & ! o!r *>act]i/ic qualities ( lea!r1 indicat+ t ! fat is comb9$ intimately ) ! sk9 sub/ance 9 a p]man5t fa%ion4 ,9 tann+ furs1 v>i\s oils & fats are us$1 b n all are capable ( produc+ a *amois tan4 ,among ! fatty mat]ials are m9]al oils1 & vegetable & animal oils & fats4 ,m9]al oils are ! di/illation products ( petroleum1 p>tially liquid1 & p>tially solid4 ,be+ in]t sub/ances1 !y h no tann+ effect1 b s]ve m]ely z wat]-pro(+ or fatt5+ mat]ials4 ,except = _! oily nature !y h no?+ 9 common ) fats1 be+ q unaffect$ by solutions ( alkalies or ( acids4 ,vegetable & animal fats & oils are1 :5 pure1 neutral sub/ances =m$ by ! comb9ation ( fatty acids ) glyc]9e4 ,!y possess ! prop]ty ( saponification1 t is1 ( =m+ a soap :5 treat$ ) an alkali1 ! soap be+ ! alkal9e salt ( ! fatty acid4 ,"u c]ta9 conditions1 ! fat c be split up into free fatty acid & glyc]9e by ! action ( acids1 or ev5 wat] alone4 ,"s fats on long /&+1 split up 9 ?is way spontane\sly 9 ! pres5ce ( moi/ air4 ,z a g5]al rule1 ^? fats :i* exhibit ?is prop]ty to a m>k$ degree are affect$ by contact ) ! air1 due to ! absorption ( oxyg5 :i* reacts *emically ) ! fats1 =m+ :at are kn[n z oxy-fatty acids1 usually less soluble1 & hav+ a high] melt+ po9t ?an ! orig9al fats4 ,vegetable & animal fatty mat]ials are classifi$ on ! basis ( ?is ph5om5on ( absorb+ oxyg5 f ! air1 ^? possess+ ?is quality to a great degree be+ call$ 8dry+ oils10 o!rs be+ 8p>tially dry+10 or 8non-dry+40 ,olive oil1 ca/or oil1 cocoanut oil & cottonse$ oil are examples ( non-dry+ or p>tially-dry+ vegetable oils1 l9se$ oil be+ ! mo/ important dry+-oil 9 ?is class4 ,tall[1 l>d1 butt]-fat1 neats-foot oil are non-dry+ animal fats1 ! dry+ oils be+ seal oil1 :ale oil1 & cod-liv] oil4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #h4 ,,tramp+ ,,ma*9e ,,or 8,,kick]40 7,f4 ,blattn]1 ,brooklyn1 ,new ,york47 ,= tann+ purposes1 ?is prop]ty ( absorb+ oxyg5 is important1 because only ) dry+ oils c a true *amois tan be obta9$1 non-dry+ oils act+ l m9]al oils only z wat]-pro(+ mat]ials4 ,! details ( ! *amois process are n q cle>1 !re be+ consid]able diff]5ce ( op9ion on ! matt]4 ,b all ! /udies on ! subject t5d to prove t !re are at lea/ two phases to ! process3 fir/1 ! me*anical cov]+ ( ! fibres ) ! fat1 ?is prop]ty be+ common to all fats or oils :i* may be us$2 & second1 ! comb9ation ( ! fat ) ! sk9 9 "s *emical way1 z a result ( ! oxidation ( ! fat1 a *>act]i/ic f\nd only 9 ! dry+ oils4 ,dur+ ! oxidation ( ! fats1 ! glyc]9e 9 !m is conv]t$ to acrole9 or acryl-aldehyde1 :i* also aids ! tann+4 ,x 0 at "o "t suppos$ t ! tann+ action 0 due to ?is aldehyde alone1 b a *amois tan c be made ) fatty sub/ances f :i* all ! glyc]9e has be5 remov$4 ,! evid5ce on ?is "q1 h[ev]1 is n q conclusive4 ,9 g5]al1 ! proc$ure ( ! *amois tan is z foll[s3 ,! hydro-extract$1 fle%$ sk9s are rubb$ on ! fle%-side ) a good quality ( seal-oil4 ,!y are !n fold$ up1 & put into a #8kick]1' :]e !y are tramp$ = two or ?ree h\rs to "w 9 ! oil4 ,! kick] is a ma*9e su* z %[n 9 ,fig4 #h consi/+ ( a receptacle = ! sk9s1 & two wood5 hamm]s :i* "w up & d[n me*anically1 turn+ & p\nd+ ! sk9s4 7,z _m z #ajjj-aejj sk9s ( ! size ( musk-rats c be work$ at "o "t 9 su* a ma*9e47 ,! pelts are !n tak5 out & hung up 9 a w>m room = sev]al h\rs1 consid]able oxidation tak+ place4 ,ano!r coat ( oil is !n appli$1 :i* is aga9 tramp$ 91 & ! sk9s are hung up once m & expos$ to ! air to cause ! oil to oxidize4 ,aft] ! sk9s are suffici5tly tann$ !y are r9s$ 9 a weak soda solution to remove ! excess oil1 wa%$ & dri$4 ,:5 sk9s ) f9e hair su* z m>t51 sable1 m9k1 etc41 receive a *amois tan1 !y are n tramp$ 9 kick]s z ! delicate top-hair w be brok51 & ! value ( ! sk9 !reby r$uc$4 ,in/ead !y are plac$ 9 small drums1 toge!r ) metal balls ( v>y+ sizes & weights dep5d+ on ! p>ticul> fur treat$1 & ! oil is work$ 9 by rotat+ ! drum4 ,su* a ball-drum1 z x is call$1 is %[n 9 ,fig4 #i4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #i4 ,,ball ,,drum4 7,f4 ,blattn]1 ,brooklyn1 ,new ,york47 ,9 conjunction ) ! *amois tan may be discuss$ ! process ( oil+1 inasmu* z ! me?od ( application & ! effect are bo? simil> to ! *amois tan up to a c]ta9 po9t4 ,x is cu/om>y to treat sk9s tann$ by any o!r me?od b ! *amois process1 ) "s oil 9 ord] to r5d] !m m imp]vi\s to wat]4 ,! greate/ v>iety ( oils & fats c be us$1 ! action 9 mo/ cases be+ simply ! me*anical isolation ( ! sk9 fibres by su* a sub/ance1 ?us correspond+ to ! fir/ or physical phase ( ! *amois tan4 ,! *emical phase1 if x takes place at all1 is usually slight1 & is m]ely incid5tal4 ,oil+ is g5]ally appli$ ei!r be=e dry+ aft] tann+1 or aft] dry+1 ! oil$ sk9s be+ plac$ 9 a kick] & tramp$ to cause ! oil to p5etrate4 ,9 "s in/ances ! oil+ mat]ial is put 9 ! same mixture z ! tann+ *emicals1 & ! tann+ & oil+ are effect$ simultane\sly4 ,among fatty sub/ances us$ = oil+ are m9]al oils1 su* z p>aff9e oil1 & vasel9e2 animal fats1 l tra9 oils1 butt]1 egg-yolk1 glyc]9e1 neats-foot oil2 vegetable oils1 l olive oil1 ca/or oil1 cottonse$ oil2 also sulphonat$ ca/or oil & sulphonat$ neats-foot oil4 ,^! may be us$ s+ly or 9 v>i\s mixtures1 an emulsion ( an oil & a s(t soap also be+ frequ5tly employ$4 #d4 ,,=maldehyde ,,tans ,=maldehyde has prov5 to be ( great value 9 ! tann+ ( furs1 usually 9 conjunction ) o!r processes4 ,=maldehyde is a gas ) a /rong1 irritat+ odor1 & its #dj solution1 :i* is ! cu/om>y comm]cial =m1 also possesses ?is quality4 ,:5 sk9s are treat$ = sev]al h\rs ) a v dilute solution ( ! comm]cial product1 a lea!r is obta9$ :i* comb9es ! prop]ties ( ! alum tan & ! *amois tan4 ,moreov]1 9 ! majority ( obs]v$ cases1 :]e furs h be5 tann$ ) =maldehyde1 ! sk9s seem to acquire a c]ta9 immunity to ! attacks ( v]m9 & mo?s4 ,al?\gh ! sk9s d n 9 any way reta9 ! odor ( ! =maldehyde1 nev]!less ^! de/ructive ag5ts seem to be repell$4 ,num]\s processes h be5 devis$ :i* use =maldehyde 9 connection ) o!r sub/ances = tann+4 ,?us 9 a ,g]man pat5t is describ$ a me?od involv+ ! alt]nate or simultane\s treatm5t ( pelts ) solutions ( =maldehyde & alpha or beta naph?ol4 ,bo? ! =maldehyde & ! naph?ol ex]cise tann+ actions1 b ! process is n us$ 9 practise4 ,9 #aiaa1 ,/iasny1 a well-kn[n lea!r *emi/ produc$ a syn!tic sub/ance by ! cond5sation ( =maldehyde ) a sulphonat$ ph5ol1 =m+ an artificial tann94 ,?is *emical1 call$ 8,n]adol ,d10 exhibits _m ( ! prop]ties *>act]i/ic ( true tann9s1 al?\gh 9 no way relat$ by /ructure & composition4 ,by ! use ( 8,n]adol ,d0 a s(t1 :ite & flexible lea!r is obta9$1 & x is !re=e a suitable tann+ mat]ial = furs4 #e4 ,,comb9ation ,,tans ,9 _m in/ances m ?an "o me?od is employ$ 9 tann+ ! furs1 & 9 ?is way :at is kn[n z a comb9ation tan is produc$4 ,:ile ! v>i\s individual processes describ$ give m or less satisfactory results by !mselves1 !y g5]ally possess "s features1 :i* = c]ta9 purposes may be undesirable1 & :i* c be elim9at$ or consid]ably r$uc$ by us+ o!r processes at ! same "t or subsequ5tly4 ,"s ( ! comb9ation me?ods are1 pickle ) *rome tan1 alum tan ) *rome tan1 & =maldehyde tan ) pickle1 m9]al tan or *amois tan4 ,by means ( su* comb9ations v>i\s qualities ( tann$ furs c be obta9$1 & if x is desir$ to produce a pelt hav+ c]ta9 special *>act]i/ics1 ?is c be br\ght ab\t by comb9+ two or m /&>d me?ods4 ,"s illu/rations ( comb9$ tannages are ! foll[+3 ,alum-*rome tan4 ,! sk9s are tann$ by ! regul> alum process1 !n ! con/itu5ts ( ! *rome tan are dissolv$ directly 9 ! same ba?1 & ! *rome tan is effect$ z usual4 ,*rome-=maldehyde tan4 ,to ! regul> *rome tan solution is add$ #a_/b lb4 ( =maldehyde = e #aj gallons ( *rome liquor4 ,! re/ ( ! process is z ord9>ily4 #f4 ,,vegetable ,,tans ,9 practise1 ! vegetable tann+ matt]s are n us$ = furs1 al?\gh 9 "s special in/ances gambi] cut* may be employ$ occasionally ) "s o!r tan4 ,h[ev]1 _m ( ^! tann9s also h dye+ prop]ties1 & are us$ 9 dye+ ! furs4 ,9 ?is connection x mu/ be m5tion$ t furs dy$ ) ^! mat]ials also receive a vegetable tan1 :i* improves ! quality ( ! lea!r to a consid]able ext5t4 ,comp>ison ( ,! ,v>i\s ,tann+ ,me?ods ,9 *oos+ a me?od = tann+ any p>ticul> k9d ( fur1 sev]al factors mu/ be consid]$4 ,! nature ( ! pelt1 ins(> z x is weak or /rong2 ! "t1 labor & co/ ( mat]ials requir$ by ! tann+ process2 ! effect on ! lea!r ( ! diff]5t dyes & *emicals us$ 9 dye+1 if ! sk9 is to be dy$1 are a few ( ! po9ts requir+ att5tion & consid]ation4 ,= furs :i* are only to be dress$1 a simple tan l ! pickle w suffice 9 mo/ cases4 ,special in/ances1 su* z ! rabbit & mole already m5tion$1 & a few o!r furs are tann$ by ! alum me?od4 ,! pickle is und\bt$ly ! *eape/ & simple/ me?od ( tann+ sk9s1 & yields a s(t1 :ite lea!r :i* is p]man5t z long z x is kept dry4 ,if x is put into wat]1 ab\t #be ( ! salt conta9$ )9 ! pelt dissolves out1 & ! acid pres5t swells up ! tissues4 ,if ! sk9 is dri$ 9 ?is condition1 x w come out h>d & brittle1 t5d+ to crack v easily4 ,by treat+ ! lea!r be=e dry+ ) a /rong salt solution1 a good deal ( ! extract$ salt w be replac$1 & on dry+ & /ret*+1 x w "w out s(t4 ,sk9s tann$ by ! 8,s*rot-beize0 are affect$ by wat] 9 q ! same mann] z ! pickl$ sk9s4 ,! alum tan gives a lea!r simil> to t produc$ by ! pickle1 b ) ! advantage t ! sk9s possess great] /ret* & flexibility4 ,9 its resi/ance to wat]1 ! alum-tann$ pelt is q z susceptible z ! o!r4 ,z a g5]al rule1 ! sk9 absorbs ab\t #f ( its weight ( alum f ! tann+ solution1 b gives up ?ree-qu>t]s ( ?is :5 x is soak$ 9 wat]1 produc+ on dry+1 a h>d1 /iff lea!r4 ,! *rome tan is especially imp]vi\s to wat]1 easily resi/+ temp]atures ( #hj ,c41 & ev5 boil+ wat]4 ,x is employ$ to only a limit$ ext5t on acc\nt ( ! special ef=t & c>e requir$ to obta9 satisfactory results1 also because ! pelt acquires a pale blue-gre5 color :i* is n desir$ on dress$ sk9s4 ,! *amois tan1 & "s ( ! comb9ations ( ! =maldehyde tan ) ! o!r me?ods1 give v s(t1 flexible lea!rs :i* possess a suffici5tly great resi/ance to ! effects ( wat] & heat4 ,9 te/s made to det]m9e ! be/ work+ temp]atures = dye+ sk9s dress$ by ! salt-acid tan1 & = sk9s dress$ by ! *amois process1 "s v int]e/+ facts 7 br\ght out4 ,^! two tans 7 *os5 because !y repres5t opposite extremes1 ! salt-acid tan usually giv+ ! poore/ results1 & ! *amois tan giv+ ! be/ results 9 practise 9 dye+4 ,o!r me?ods1 except ! *rome1 range betwe5 ^! two4 ,! proc$ure 9 ^! exp]im5ts 0 to treat ! sk9s at ord9>y temp]atures 9 wat]1 or dilute solutions ( ! v>i\s *emicals & dyes usually employ$ 9 dye+1 & !n heat ^! solutions until ! lea!r j began to %r9k & %rivel up4 ,?is po9t1 call$ ! %r9k+ po9t 7,s4,p471 gave ! temp]ature to :i* ! sk9s c\ld be subject$ 9 ! giv5 solution )\t dang] to ! pelt4 7,! exp]im5ts & obs]vations 7 made by ,eri* ,s*lottau]1 :ile director ( a l>ge ,g]man fur dress+ & dye+ plant74 ,! fir/ obs]vation made 0 t diff]5t furs tann$ by ! same process 7 affect$ diff]5tly 9 ! same solutions4 ,?us 9 pla9 wat]1 ?ree furs1 all tann$ by ! acid-salt tan1 _h %r9k+ po9ts v>y+ by sev]al degrees2 simil>ly ) two diff]5t furs tann$ by ! *amois process1 !re 0 a v>iation 9 ! %r9k+ po9t ( two degrees4 ,! explanation ( ?is discrepancy among ! diff]5t sk9s may be t !re 0 a slight diff]5ce 9 ! conditions "u :i* !y 7 tann$1 exp]im5ts %[+ t a maximum diff]5ce ( #d ,c4 may exi/ among sk9s tann$ by ! same process1 b n "u ! same or id5tical circum/ances4 ,ano!r reason = ! v>iation may be ! fact1 t "s sk9s are m greasy ?an o!rs1 & are ?us m resi/ant to ! effects ( wat] or ( "s *emicals4 ,! furs ) ! high] %r9k+ po9ts 9 wat] 7 ^? :i* naturally are m greasy ?an ! o!rs4 ,weak solutions ( acids t5d slightly to l[] ! %r9k+ po9t1 :ile weak solutions ( alkalies appreciably raise x1 9 bo? *amois-tann$ & salt-acid-tann$ sk9s4 ,solutions ( dyes & mordants z a g5]al rule increase ! resi/ance ( ! sk9 to heat1 v>y+ quantities ( ^! sub/ances hav+ no1 or little diff]5t effects on ! %r9k+ po9ts4 ,previ\s treatm5t ( ! lea!r ) "s oil consid]ably raises ! %r9k+ po9t ( ! pelt4 ,=maldehyde effects a great increase ( ! resi/ance ( ! sk9s to heat1 especially ) *amois-tann$ furs4 ,! exp]im5ts 9 ?is case 7 made by fir/ treat+ ! sk9s 9 ! weak =maldehyde solution1 & !n det]m9+ ! %r9k+ po9t 9 pla9 wat]4 ,two sk9s1 bo? dress$ by ! 8,s*rot-beize10 a ,p]sian lamb & an a/ra*an1 aft] dye+ _h %r9k+ po9ts almo/ #aj degrees high] ?an :5 undy$4 ,! extra tannage :i* ! sk9s receiv$ f ! tann9s us$ 9 ! dye mixtures = ^! furs1 acc\nts = ?is increas$ resi/ance to heat4 ,! foll[+ tables give ! obs]v$ figures 9 ! diff]5t exp]im5ts3 ,,table ,i ------------------------------------- ,a ,b ,c ,s4,p4 ,s4,p4 ,s4,p4 ------------------------------------- ,salt-acid ,tan ,c4 ,c4 ,c4 ,au/ralian ,opossum #df #eh #de ,m>mot #de #ej #db ,skunk #dg #ef #dc ,*amois ,tan ,m9k #eb #fa #de ,muskrat #ej #eh #db ------------------------------------- ,a--,wat] ,b--,wat] plus #a ,ammonia 7s4g4 #j4iaj7 ,c--,wat] plus #a ,sulphuric acid 7#ff ,beaum7 ,,table ,,ii ------------------------------------- ,a ,b ,c ,s4,p4 ,s4,p4 ,s4,p4 ------------------------------------- ,salt-acid ,tan ,c4 ,c4 ,c4 ,au/ralian ,opossum #ec #eb #ed ,*amois ,tan ,m9k #ei #ei #ei ------------------------------------- ,a--#ajjj c4c4 wat] plus #dj c4c4 ,p]oxide plus #e c4c4 ammonia ,b--#ejj c4c4 wat] plus #b grams ,ursol ,d 7,p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e7 ,c--#ejj c4c4 wat] plus #e grams ,ursol ,d ,,table ,,iii ---------------------------------------- --- ,a ,b ,c ,d ,s4,p4 ,s4,p4 ,s4,p4 ,s4,p4 ---------------------------------------- --- ,salt-acid ,tan ,c4 ,c4 ,c4 ,c4 ,au/ralian ,opossum #ea #ea #ec #ef ,*amois ,m9k #ei #ei #fa #fb ---------------------------------------- --- ,a--#ejj c4c4 wat] plus #e grams gr\nd nut-galls ,b--#cjj c4c4 wat] plus #b grams pyrogallic acid ,c--#ejj c4c4 wat] plus #b grams potassium bi*romate ,d--,wat]1 aft] treat+ lea!r ) rapese$ oil ,,table ,,iv ---------------------------------------- --- ,a ,b ,c ,d ,s4,p4 ,s4,p4 ,s4,p4 ,s4,p4 ---------------------------------------- --- ,salt-acid ,tan ,c4 ,c4 ,c4 ,c4 ,au/ralian ,opossum #di #di #ee #ej ,*amois ,tan ,m9k #ei #fg #fi #gj ---------------------------------------- --- ,a--#ejj c4c4 wat] plus #e c4c4 =maldehyde = #a h\r ,b--#ejj c4c4 wat] plus #e c4c4 =maldehyde = #ab h\rs ,c--#ejj c4c4 wat] plus #aj c4c4 =maldehyde = #c h\rs ,d--,z 9 ,c1 b treat$ ) #ejj c4c4 wat] plus #e c4c4 ammonia1 in/ead ( wat] alone4 ,,table ,v ------------------------- ,a ,b ,s4,p4 ,s4,p4 ------------------------- ,c4 ,c4 ,p]sian ,lamb #dd #ed ,a/ra*an #dg #ee ------------------------- ,a--,be=e dye+ ,b--,aft] dye+ ,z a result ( ^! exp]im5ts x may be conclud$ t ! maximum temp]ature = dry+ salt-acid tann$ sk9s %\ld be #dj ,c41 :ile = *amois tann$ sk9s ! temp]ature may be p]mitt$ to rea* #de ,c4 )\t any dang] ( ! lea!r be+ affect$4 ,moreov]1 9 ! case ( pickl$ sk9s1 ! matt] ( extraction ( ! tann+ ag5t1 z well z t ( ! lea!r becom+ 8burn$0 may be effectively c\nt]act$ by bru%+ "s oil or fat on to ! lea!r side be=e dye+ ! pelt4 ,! %r9k+ po9ts ( sk9s dress$ by ! v>i\s tann+ me?ods are con/ant )9 c]ta9 limits1 dep5d+ on ! nature ( ! sk9 & on ! conditions ( tann+1 & x is possible by obs]v+ ! %r9k+ po9t1 9 conjunction ) o!r *>act]i/ics ( a giv5 pelt1 to det]m9e :at me?od ( tann+ 0 us$4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,fur ,,dress+ ,,dry+ ,,& ,,f9i%+ ,"o ( ! mo/ important op]ations ( all ! fur dress+ processes is ! dry+ ( ! sk9s4 ,= ev5 :5 all ! previ\s /eps h be5 successfully complet$1 !re is /ill a great possibility ( ! sk9 be+ injur$ if ! dry+ is n prop]ly & c>efully c>ri$ out4 ,! ess5tial requirem5ts = good dry+ are prop] temp]ature1 uni=mity & rapidity4 ,! lea!r "p ( ! fur _c1 9 ! moi/ /ate1 resi/ temp]atures exce$+ ab\t #de c5tigrade1 = :5 dri$1 ! sk9 turns out h>d & /iff1 & cracks easily4 ,! furs mu/ !re=e be dri$ at an initial temp]ature ( #be to #cj c5tigrade1 & z ! moi/ure is gradually remov$1 ! temp]ature may be rais$1 = ! less wat] t rema9s 9 ! pelt1 ! less is ! lea!r affect$ by ! heat1 & ! m difficult is ! removal ( its aque\s cont5t4 ,if ! dry+ process is n a uni=m "o1 t is1 if all ! sk9s 9 a lot are n subject$ to ! same dry+ conditions1 !n aft] ! dry+ has proce$$ = a c]ta9 "t1 "s sk9s may be q dry :ile o!rs are n1 or !re may be z _m diff]5t degrees ( dryness z !re are sk9s dry+4 ,!re is also ! possibility ( great v>iation 9 ! am\nt ( moi/ure remov$ f diff]5t p>ts ( ! same sk94 ,su* a /ate ( affairs requires an extra exp5diture ( "t1 labor & heat p[] 9 ord] to get ! :ole lot ( furs into a m or less uni=m condition4 ,moreov] 9 "s k9ds ( furs1 especially ^? ) ?ick sk9s1 :5 ! dry+ is n ev51 !re is dang] ( ! epid]mal lay] dry+ away f ! corium1 & subsequ5tly peel+ & crack+4 ,uni=mity ( dry+ requires ! ma9t5ance ( a reasonably con/ant temp]ature equally di/ribut$ ?r\gh\t all p>ts ( ! space :]e ! dry+ is done1 s t all ! furs may be dri$ "u ! same conditions4 ,rapidity ( dry+ is desirable n only because x is b5eficial to ! condition ( ! pelt1 b also f ! po9t ( view ( practical bus9ess economy4 ,! space occupi$ by ! dry+ %\ld be z small z possible compatible ) ! volume ( "w1 & ) ! effici5cy ( op]ation4 ,sl[ dry+ involves ! use ( mu* space to take c>e ( all ! sk9s to be dri$1 or an accumulation ( pelts ready to be dri$1 nei!r ( :i* conditions is effici5t or desirable4 ,x 0 =m]ly ! g5]al cu/om1 /ill practis$ 9 "s e/abli%m5ts1 to dry ! sk9s by hang+ !m up1 lea!r-side out on l9es 9 a l>ge room or l(t1 ! heat be+ usually suppli$ by /eam pipes4 ,su* a proc$ure occupi$ (t5 z long z two or ?ree days to get complete dry+1 involv$ a great deal ( labor1 & ! results 7 f> f uni=m4 ,9 fact1 9 ord] to get ! sk9s m ne>ly equable1 x 0 necess>y to subject !m to an additional op]ation4 ,?is usually consi/$ ( rotat+ ! sk9s 9 a clos$ drum = sev]al h\rs1 ! con/ant int]m+l+ ( ! pelts 9 contact ) ea* o!r caus+ any moi/ure left 9 !m to be ev5ly di/ribut$ ?r\gh\t ! :ole lot4 ,! sk9s1 by ?is process also are r5d]$ some:at s(t] & m flexible1 b by dry+ "u prop] conditions ! entire extra op]ation c be disp5s$ )1 ! furs com+ out q z s(t & flexible )\t ! drumm+4 ,a great improvem5t 0 ! adoption ( l>ge fans to circulate ! heat$ air 9 ! l(t1 !reby approa*+ m ne>ly an ev5 temp]ature4 ,m mod]n devices h1 h[ev]1 be5 develop$1 :]eby dry+ c be effect$ 9 ! mo/ uni=m mann]1 ) p]fect control ( temp]ature1 & requir+ ! lea/ possible consumption ( space1 "t1 labor & p[]4 ,a typical arrangem5t consi/s ( a l>ge clos$ *amb]1 g5]ally con/ruct$ ( /eel1 & divid$ into sev]al comp>tm5ts ea* ( :i* may be op]at$ indep5d5tly ( ! o!rs4 ,air1 heat$ ov] suitably locat$ /eam pipes to ! requir$ temp]ature1 is =c$ ?r\gh ! v>i\s comp>tm5ts by means ( fans op]at$ by p[]4 ,! conditions may be v>i$ 9 ea* comp>tm5t1 z to temp]ature or humidity1 bo? ( :i* c easily be regulat$1 or all ! comp>tm5ts may be us$ toge!r z "o unit4 ,! sk9s are hung up on rods or l9es 9 ! comp>tm5ts1 or on special frames = ! purpose1 :i* are !n ent]$ into ! comp>tm5ts & ! doors %ut4 ,! dry1 heat$ air is =c$ to pass ov] ! sk9s1 & takes up _! moi/ure4 ,at ! fur!r end ( ! dry+ *amb] is ano!r fan :i* removes ! moi/ure-lad5 air aft] x has done its "w4 ,! dry+ is effect$ 9 f #f to #bd h\rs1 & all sk9s are obta9$ 9 ! same condition1 = ! process is q uni=m & regul>4 ,)9 rec5t ye>s !re has be5 evolv$ a highly effici5t & economical dry+ equipm5t1 bas$ on a some:at diff]5t pr9ciple ?an und]lies any ( ! =ego+ me?ods4 ,! conveyor type ( dry]1 z x is call$1 is admirably suit$ to ! ne$s ( ! fur dress+ & dye+ indu/ry1 & is und\bt$ly sup]ior to any ( ! previ\s sy/ems ( dry+ furs1 9 t x af=ds an enorm\s sav+ ( space1 "t1 labor & p[]1 & gives great] uni=mity & pres5ts bett] work+ conditions4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,,diagrammatic ,,views ,,( ,,conveyor ,,dry]4 a4 ,,side ,,view2 b4 ,,end ,,view4 7,proctor ,s*w>tz1 ,inc41 ,philadelphia47 ,! conveyor dry] consi/s ess5tially ( a /eel enclosure1 ?r\gh :i* ! sk9s pass on horizontal conveyors4 ,:]e special insulation is necess>y1 asbe/os panels are us$ to l9e ! enclosure1 mak+ ! dry] absolutely firepro(1 & enabl+ ! maximum utilization ( heat4 ,9 ! middle ( ! dry] are locat$ ! /eam coils :i* furni% ! heat1 & 9 _m in/ances exhau/ /eam c be us$ z ! s\rce ( heat4 ,figure #aj %[s diagrammatically ! arrangem5t & op]ation ( ! conveyor type ( dry]4 ,! enclosure is divid$ into sev]al comp>tm5ts1 9 ea* ( :i* a diff]5t condition ( temp]ature & humidity is ma9ta9$1 ! temp]ature be+ closely & accurately regulat$ by an automatic control1 & once ! dry] has be5 set = any condition1 all sk9s w be dri$ exactly ! same1 reg>dless ( wea!r or season4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,,conveyor ,,dry]4 7,proctor ,s*w>tz1 ,inc41 ,philadelphia47 ,! sk9s to be dri$ are plac$ on poles :i* 9 turn are set on ! horizontal conveyors z 9 ,fig4 #aa4 ,z ! sk9s pass ?r\gh ! comp>tm5ts1 l>ge volumes ( air1 heat$ to ! requir$ temp]ature ov] ! /eam coils1 are circulat$ among ! sk9s by means ( ! fans4 ,exhau/ fans1 prop]ly plac$1 remove a c]ta9 quantity ( moi/ure-lad5 air :5 x has accompli%$ its full measure ( "w4 ,:5 ! sk9s on ! conveyors h pass$ ! full l5g? ( ! dry]1 !y are entirely dry1 & are !n remov$ f ! poles4 7,fig4 #ab74 ,! "t requir$ = dry+ v>ies accord+ to ! nature ( ! fur f #a-b h\rs to #f-h h\rs4 ,9 te/s made to det]m9e ! relative effici5cy ( ! conveyor type ( dry] z aga9/ ! old 8l(t0 me?od1 x 0 f\nd t !re 0 a sav+ ( ov] #ej 9 p[]1 & ( #he 9 floor space1 z well z a great sav+ ( labor1 :5 ! conveyor sy/em 0 us$1 ! numb] ( sk9s dri$ 9 a giv5 p]iod ( "t be+ ! same 9 bo? cases4 ,! advantages ( ! new me?od are easily app>5t1 & ! sav+ is suffici5tly great ) l>ge lots ( furs1 to make an appreciable diff]5ce 9 ! f9al co/ ( dress+4 ,if ! sk9s h be5 dri$ by a mod]n dry+ sy/em !y all come out 9 a uni=m condition1 & are ready to g on imm$iately to ! next op]ation4 ,if1 h[ev]1 a =m ( ! 8l(t0 me?od ( dry+ has be5 us$1 x is cu/om>y to subject ! sk9s to an additional process4 ,! dri$ pelts are put 9 drums ) damp sawdu/1 & drumm$ = a %ort "t 9 ord] to get !m into ! prop] condition4 ,! drumm+ is ess5tial = ! purpose ( equaliz+ ! condition ( ! pelts1 "s be+ dri] ?an o!rs1 & z a consequ5ce ( ! contact ) ! moi/ sawdu/1 !y are all br\ght to ! same degree ( dryness4 ,z a result ( ?is op]ation also1 ! sk9s become consid]ably s(t5$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,,deliv]y ,,end ,,( ,,conveyor ,,dry]4 7,proctor ,s*w>tz1 ,inc41 ,philadelphia47 ,!n if ! pelts h n be5 previ\sly oil$ dur+ ! tann+ process1 or prior to ! dry+1 !y receive ?is treatm5t n[4 ,! oil or fat is appli$ to ! lea!r side ( ! furs1 :i* are !n plac$ 9 ! tramp+ ma*9e = a %ort "t 9 ord] to cause ! oil to be =c$ into ! sk94 ,! fibres ( ! corium ?us become coat$ ) a ?9 lay] ( fatty mat]ial1 :i* contributes greatly to ! s(tness & flexibility ( ! pelt1 & increases its resi/ance to ! action ( wat]1 & also1 9 c]ta9 in/ances a p>tial *amois tan is produc$1 !reby improv+ ! quality ( ! lea!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,,/ret*+ ,,ma*9e ,,= ,,cas$ ,,sk9s4 7,reliable ,ma*9e ,works1 ,ev]gre51 ,l4 ,i47 ,! sk9s are n[ return$ to ! "w b5*1 & subject$ to ! /ret*+ or 8/ak+0 process4 ,?is consi/s 9 draw+ ! sk9 9 all directions ov] ! edge ( a dull blade1 :i* is usually fix$ upright 9 a po/ ) ! edge up4 ,or1 ! /ret*+ may be done on ! fle%+ b5*1 sub/itut+ a dull blade = ! fle%+ knife4 ,rec5tly /ak+ ma*9es are be+ us$ 9 ! l>g] e/abli%m5ts1 ! "w be+ done mu* m quickly & effici5tly4 ,z a result ( ?is op]ation1 ! lea!r becomes v s(t & flexible1 e bit ( h>dness & /iffness be+ elim9at$1 & ! sk9s receive _! maximum /ret*1 !reby giv+ ! greate/ possible surface to ! pelage4 ,?is n only helps to br+ out ! beauty ( ! hair1 b is also a decid$ advantage f ! economic po9t ( view1 z a consid]able sav+ ( mat]ial is effect$ 9 ?is way1 sometimes ev5 to ! ext5t ( tw5ty-five p] c5t4 ,cas$ sk9s are /ret*$ 9 a some:at diff]5t mann]1 by means ( /ret*+ irons4 ,^! consi/ ( two long iron rods jo9$ by a pivot at "o end4 ,! sk9s are slipp$ on to ! irons1 :i* are !n spread ap>t1 & 9 ?is way ! sk9s are /ret*$ & s(t5$4 ,a ma*9e :i* does ?is "w v effici5tly is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ac4 ,! sk9 is drawn onto ! /ret*+ arms1 9 ?is case made ( bronze1 :i* are !n =c$ ap>t by press+ on a p$al4 ,:5 prop]ly /ret*$ to ! maximum wid? 9 all directions possible1 & ?us ?or\ghly s(t5$1 ! sk9 c easily be rev]s$1 t is1 turn$ hair-side out4 ,z _m z #fjjj sk9s c be /ret*$1 or #djjj to #ejjj sk9s /ret*$ & rev]s$ by "o man 9 "o day on su* a ma*9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,,fur ,,beat+ ,,ma*9e4 7,s4 ,m4 ,jacoby ,co41 ,new ,york47 ,! pelts are !n comb$ & beat54 ,9 small] plants ^! op]ations are done by h&1 b suitable ma*9es are be+ employ$4 ,9 ord] to /raight5 out ! hair1 x is comb$ or bru%$4 ,!n 9 ord] to loos5 up ! hair1 & to cause x to display its fullness1 ! furs are beat54 ,?is process is also done by h& 9 "s e/abli%m5ts1 b up-to-date places use me*anical devices = ?is purpose4 ,a type ( ma*9e :i* has prov5 v successful1 & is enjoy+ consid]able popul>ity is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ad4 ,^! ma*9es are also made ) special suction atta*m5ts :i* remove all du/ z x comes out ( ! beat5 sk91 !reby mak+ ?is =m]ly unheal?ful op]ation ?or\ghly sanit>y & hygi5ic4 ,! f9al process is drum-clean+4 ,?is op]ation is int5d$ specifically = ! b5efit ( ! hair "p ( ! fur1 & is v important inasmu* z ! attractive appe>ance ( ! fur dep5ds l>gely ^u x4 ,! drum1 su* z is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ae is g5]ally made ( wood1 or sometimes ( wood cov]$ ) galvaniz$ iron4 ,! sk9s toge!r ) f9e h>dwood sawdu/ are tumbl$ = #b to #d h\rs1 or sometimes long]4 ,occasionally a little asbe/os or soap/one is add$ to ! sawdu/2 = :ite1 or v light-color$ sk9s1 gypsum or :ite s& is us$1 ei!r alone1 or 9 admixture ) ! sawdu/2 & = d>k] sk9s1 graphite or f9e *>coal is sometimes add$ 9 small quantities4 ,! drum-clean+ process poli%es ! hair1 giv+ x its full gloss & lu/re1 & at ! same "t absorb+ any oil or o!r undesirable matt] :i* may be adh]+ to ! hair z a result ( ! wa%+ & tann+ processes4 ,any soap1 or traces ( mordant are wip$ (f & s remov$1 & by us+ heat$ sawdu/1 or heat+ ! drum :ile rotat+1 ! fur acquires a fullness & play ( ! hair :i* are great desid]ata 9 furs4 ,! sawdu/ mu/ !n be %ak5 out ( ! furs4 ,?is is done by cage+4 ,9 "s in/ances1 ! drum itself c be conv]t$ into a cage1 by replac+ ! solid door ) "o made ( a wire scre54 7,fig4 #af47 ,usually1 h[ev]1 ! sk9s are remov$ f ! drum & put 9 a sep>ate cage1 :i* is built l ! drum1 b has a wire net all ar\nd x1 ?r\gh :i* ! sawdu/ falls1 :ile ! sk9s are held back4 ,! cages are g5]ally enclos$ 9 comp>tm5ts 9 ord] to prev5t ! sawdu/ f fly+ ab\t & =m+ a du/ :i* w\ld be injuri\s to ! heal? ( ! work]s4 ,9 l>ge e/abli%m5ts1 ! drum-clean+ ma*9]y occupies a l>ge section ( ! plant1 _m drums & cages be+ us$1 & special arrangem5ts be+ made to take c>e ( ! sawdu/ :i* c be us$ ov] aga9 sev]al times1 until x becomes q dirty4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,,drum4 7,,comb9ation ,,drum ,,& ,,cage ,,z ,a ,,drum47 7,f4 ,blattn]1 ,brooklyn1 ,new ,york47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #af4 ,,cage4 7,,comb9ation ,,drum ,,& ,,cage ,,z ,a ,,cage47 7,f4 ,blattn]1 ,brooklyn1 ,new ,york47 ,) ?is op]ation ends ! ord9>y proc$ure ( fur dress+4 ,b !re are sev]al additional processes requir$ 9 ! treatm5t ( c]ta9 furs1 :i* are g5]ally und]tak5 by ! dress]1 & *ief among ^! are %e>+ & unhair+4 ,sometimes ?is "w is done 9 sep>ate e/abli%m5ts organiz$ solely = ?is bus9ess4 ,c]ta9 k9ds ( furs1 among !m be+ seal1 beav] & nutria1 possess top-hair :i* may detract f ! beauty ( ! fur1 ! true attractiv5ess be+ 9 ! fur-hair4 ,! top-hairs are !re=e remov$1 & = ?is purpose ma*9es are n[ be+ us$4 ,=m]ly ?is "w 0 all done by h&1 & on ! m exp5sive furs l seal & beav]1 unhair+ is n[ done on a ma*9e op]at$ by h&4 ,! pr9ciple ( ! process is z foll[s3 ,! sk9s are plac$ on a plat=m & ! hair bl[n ap>t by means ( a bell[s4 ,! /iff top-hairs rema9 /&+ up1 & %>p knives are br\ght d[n me*anically to ! desir$ dep?1 & ! hair is cut (f at t po9t4 ,! sk9 is !n mov$ =w>d a %ort di/ance1 & ! process repeat$ until all ! top-hairs h ?us be5 cut out4 ,) muskrats1 or o!r pelts :i* d n require su* v c>eful att5tion1 ! :ole process is done automatically on a ma*9e4 ,! fur-hair is bru%$ ap>t by means ( bru%es & a comb1 & at regul> int]vals1 %>p knives cut (f ! top-hairs4 ,sev]al hundr$ sk9s c be unhair$ 9 a day on su* a ma*9e requir+ ! att5tion ( only "o man4 ,a ma*9e = unhair+ sk9s is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ag4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,,unhair+ ,,ma*9e4 7,s5eca ,ma*9e ,tool ,co41 ,inc41 ,brooklyn1 ,n4 ,y47 ,) o!r furs1 su* z rabbits1 h>es1 etc41 :]e ! tr\ble ( unhair+ w\ld be too great comm5surate ) its advantages1 ! hair is %e>$ in/ead4 ,! top hair is cut d[n to ! same l5g? z ! "u-hair by means ( %e>+ ma*9es :i* c be regulat$ to cut to any desir$ l5g? ( hair4 ,a typical device = %e>+ furs is %[n 9 ,fig4 #ah4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,,fur-,,%e>+ ,,ma*9e4 7,s5eca ,ma*9e ,tool ,co41 ,inc41 ,brooklyn1 ,n4 ,y47 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,wat] ,,9 ,,fur ,,dress+ ,,& ,,dye+ ,! ass]tion has (t5 be5 made1 al?\gh its absurdity is n[ q g5]ally realiz$1 t ! success ( ! ,european fur dress]s & dy]s1 p>ticul>ly 9 ,leipzig1 is due to ! peculi> nature ( ! wat] us$1 :i* is suppos$ to be especially suit$ = _! ne$s4 ,! a*ievem5ts 9 ?is c\ntry 9 ! fur dress+ & dye+ indu/ry dur+ ! pa/ few ye>s are ample & suffici5t answ]s to ! claim ( =eign sup]iority 9 ?is field no matt] :at reason may be giv51 & p>ticul>ly :5 ! quality ( ! wat] us$ is advanc$ z a lead+ argum5t4 ,= ! wat] employ$ by ! e/abli%m5ts 9 & ab\t ,new ,york1 z well z 9 o!r sections ( ! c\ntry is surely n ! same z ! wat] ( ,leipzig1 yet ! "w done "h is 9 e respect ! equal (1 if n bett] ?an ! =eign products4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t simil> rumors 7 curr5t "h 9 ! e>ly p]iod ( ! developm5t ( ! ,am]ican coal-t> indu/ry s9ce #aiad4 ,our ef=ts to e/abli% an indep5d5t dye/uff indu/ry 7 doom$ to failure1 accord+ to ^? :o circulat$ ! /ories1 because we did n h ! wat]1 :i* !y claim$ 0 responsible = ! ,g]man success4 ,! pres5t /atus ( ! ,am]ican dye bus9ess1 9 its capacity satisfactorily to supply mo/ ( ! ne$s ( ?is c\ntry & ( o!rs z well1 speaks = itself4 ,h[ev]1 z is (t5 ! case ) su* errone\s ass]tions1 !re is j en\gh ( an elem5t ( tru? 9 ! /atem5t reg>d+ ! peculi> qualities ( c]ta9 k9ds ( wat]1 to make ! matt] wor?y ( consid]ation4 ,wat] is c]ta9ly a factor ( great importance 9 fur dress+ & dye+1 & x is n e sort ( wat] t is suitable = use4 ,?is fact 0 recogniz$ by ! e>ly ma/]s ( ! art1 = !y inv>iably us$ ra9-wat] z ! m$ium = _! tann+ & dye+ mat]ials1 & _! *oice mu/ be reg>d$ z an exce$+ly wise "o4 ,:ile ! necessity = giv+ consid]ation to ! quality ( ! wat] = fur dress+ purposes is great1 x is 9 fur dye+ t ! effects ( us+ ! wrong wat] are l>gely evid5t1 & s extra c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ 9 ! selection ( wat] = ?is purpose4 ,! ess5tial requirem5ts = a wat] suitable = ! ne$s ( ! fur dress+ & dye+ indu/ry1 are3 fir/1 a suffici5t1 con/ant & uni=m supply2 & second1 ! abs5ce ( c]ta9 delet]i\s +r$i5ts4 ,*emically pure wat] is simply ! product ( ! comb9ation ( two p>ts by volume ( hydrog5 ) "o "p by volume ( oxyg54 ,su* wat] c only be made 9 ! laboratory1 & is ( no importance 9 indu/ry4 ,= practical purposes1 di/ill$ wat] may be reg>d$ z ! /&>d ( pure wat]4 ,"h1 too1 ! co/ & tr\ble involv$ 9 ! production ( di/ill$ wat] on a l>ge scale is w>rant$ only 9 a c]ta9 few indu/rial op]ations4 ,a natural s\rce ( wat] :i* 9 its "* mo/ ne>ly approa*es di/ill$ wat] is ra94 ,9 fact1 ra9-wat] is a di/ill$ wat]1 = ! sun's heat vaporizes ! wat] f ! surface ( ! e>? =m+ cl\ds1 :i* on cool+1 are cond5s$ & come d[n z ra94 ,ra9-wat] is usually reg>d$ z ! pure/ =m ( natural wat]4 ,exclusive ( ! fir/ ra9 aft] a dry p]iod1 ra9-wat] is q free ( impurities1 except possibly = a small p]c5tage ( dissolv$ atmosph]ic gases1 :i* are practically h>mless1 & :i* c usually be readily elim9at$ by heat+ ! wat]4 ,moreov]1 ra9-wat] is q uni=m 9 its composition ?r\gh\t ! ye> 9 ! same locality1 & x possesses all ! desirable qualities ( a wat] suit$ = fur dress+ & dye+ purposes4 ,=m]ly :5 ! quantity ( wat] us$ 9 ! indu/ry 0 comp>atively small1 ! supply f ra9 0 suffici5t to meet all ! requirem5ts4 ,b n[1 :5 trem5d\s quantities ( wat] are us$ con/antly1 ra9-wat] is no long] a feasible s\rce1 & o!r supplies mu/ be utiliz$1 al?\gh 9 a s5se1 all wat] may be trac$ to ra9-wat] z its orig94 ,:5 ra9-wat] falls on ! e>? x ei!r s9ks into ! gr\nd until x rea*es an imp]vi\s lay]1 :]e x collects z a subt]ranean pool1 =m+ a well1 or cont9ues to fl[ und]gr\nd until x f9ally em]ges at ! surface z a spr+2 or on ! o!r h& ! ra9-wat] may s9k b a %ort di/ance bel[ ! surface1 dra9+ (f z ponds1 lakes or riv]s4 ,9 ! fir/ case ! wat] is call$ gr\nd wat]1 9 ! latt] x is kn[n z surface wat]4 ,gr\nd wat] usually conta9s metallic salts 9 solution1 & relatively little susp5d$ matt]4 ,if ! wat] has p]colat$ ?r\gh igne\s rocks1 l granite1 x may be q free ev5 ( dissolv$ salts1 & su* wat] is consid]$ 8s(t40 ,if1 h[ev]1 ! rocky =mations ov] :i*1 or ?r\gh :i*1 ! wat] has pass$ conta9 lime/one or s&/one1 or ! l1 salts ( calcium & magnesium w be dissolv$ by ! wat]4 ,! pres5ce ( ! lime & magnesia salts1 z well z salts ( alum9um & iron1 9 ! wat]1 causes x to be :at is t]m$ 8h>d40 ,surface wat] is m likely to conta9 susp5d$ matt]1 ) v little ( dissolv$ sub/ances4 ,susp5d$ matt]1 l mud1 conta9s mu* objectionable matt] su* z putrefactive organisms & iron1 b mo/ ( ^! mat]ials c be remov$ by filtration or s$im5tation1 & seldom cause any difficulties4 ,h>dness 9 wat] is g5]ally ! *ief s\rce ( tr\ble :5 ! wat] is at fault4 ,h>dness may be ( two k9ds1 ei!r p]man5t1 or tempor>y1 or sometimes bo? are f\nd toge!r4 ,wat] :i* is p]man5tly h>d usually conta9s ! lime & magnesia comb9$ z sulphates4 ,tempor>y h>dness1 on ! o!r h&1 is due to ! pres5ce ( lime & magnesia 9 ! =m ( bic>bonates1 ! c>bon dioxide conta9$ 9 ! wat] hav+ dissolv$ ! practically insoluble c>bonates3 ,ca,c,o ,,co ,h,o ,ca7,,hco7 calcium c>bon wat] calcium c>bonate dioxide bic>bonate ,tempor>y h>dness c be elim9at$ by heat+ ! wat]1 ! c>bon dioxide be+ expell$ & ! c>bonates ( lime & magnesia be+ precipitat$ & !n filt]$ (f4 ,bo? p]man5tly & tempor>ily h>d wat]s c be s(t5$ by ! addition ( ! prop] *emical1 su* z an alkal9e c>bonate l sodium c>bonate4 ,?is precipitates insoluble c>bonates ( ! lime1 magnesia1 iron & alum9um1 leav+ a h>mless salt ( sodium 9 solution 9 ! wat]4 ,! sludge is all[$ to settle 9 tanks be=e ! wat] is us$4 ,9 fur dress+ & dye+1 wat] is employ$ = soak+ & wa%+ ! sk9s1 dissolv+ *emicals1 extracts & dye mat]ials1 & also = /eam boil]s4 ,a small am\nt ( h>dness 9 ! wat] is n h>mful1 & up to #aj p>ts ( solid matt] p] #ajj1jjj1 may be disreg>d$4 ,p]man5t h>dness is p>ticul>ly objectionable 9 wat] = boil] purposes1 z x =ms scale4 ,! effect ( ! impurities ( ! wat] dep5ds on ! nature ( ! *emicals & dyes us$4 ,:]e acids are us$ 9 solution comp\nds ( magnesium1 lime & alum9um w g5]ally n int]f]e4 ,h>d wat] mu/ n be us$ = soap solutions1 z /icky insoluble precipitates are =m$ ) ! soap by ! metals1 ?is comp\nd adh]+ to ! hair1 & be+ difficult to remove1 w cause consid]able tr\ble 9 subsequ5t dye+4 ,an appreciable loss ( soap also results1 z "o "p ( lime1 calculat$ z c>bonate w r5d] useless twelve p>ts ( soap4 ,9 tann+ or mordant+1 :]e salts ( t91 alum9um or iron are employ$1 h>d wat] %\ld n be us$1 z lime & magnesia w =m precipitates ) !m4 ,bi*romates w be r$uc$ to neutral salts1 & cream ( t>t> w also be neutraliz$4 ,) dyes also1 h>d wat] has a delet]i\s effect4 ,basic dyes are precipitat$ by ?is k9d ( wat]1 r5d]+ "p ( ! dye useless1 & also caus+ unev5 & /reaky dye+s4 ,sometimes ! %ades ( ! dye+s are modifi$ or unfavorably affect$4 ,consid]able quantities ( lime & magnesia 9 ! wat] w cause dull] %ades ) logwood & fu/ic dye+s4 ,! pres5ce ( iron1 ev5 9 v slight quantities g5]ally alt]s ! %ade1 d>k5+ & dull+ ! color4 ,^! facts 7 app>5tly all recogniz$ & und]/ood by ! fur dress]s & dy]s ( an e>li] p]iod1 = in/ead ( utiliz+ ! wat] ( lakes & /reams ne> at h&1 :i* af=d$ a m con/ant supply1 b :i* conta9$ h>mful impurities1 !y collect$ ! ra9-wat]1 :i* 0 always s(t4 ,:e!r !y realiz$ ! nature & "* ( ! sub/ances t make wat] h>d is unc]ta91 b !y 7 always c>eful to avoid su* wat]4 ,at ! pres5t "t e/abli%m5ts locat$ 9 & ab\t l>ge cities l ,new ,york1 :]e ! majority ( ,am]ican fur dress+ & dye+ plants are situat$1 h no tr\ble ab\t ! wat]4 ,! cities supply wat] :i* is s(t1 suitable alike = dr9k+ & indu/rial purposes4 ,o!r plants1 n s =tunately situat$1 (t5 h to employ *emical means to treat ! wat] s z to make x suitable = use4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,fur ,,dye+ ,,introductory ,,& ,,hi/orical ,9 discuss+ fur dye+1 ! "q naturally arises1 8,:y dye furs at all8 ,are n furs mo/ attractive 9 _! natural colors1 & !re=e m desirable ?an ^? :i* acquire _! color ?r\gh ! artifices ( man80 ,! answ] _c be giv5 simply4 ,natural furs ( ! m valuable k9ds are inde$ above comp>ison ) ! majority ( dy$ furs4 ,yet !re are sev]al reasons :i* fully ju/ify & expla9 ! ne$ = fur dye+1 = at ! pres5t "t1 ?is bran* ( ! fur indu/ry is almo/ z important & indisp5sable z ! dress+ ( furs4 ,! fir/ application ( dye+ to furs1 _h = its purpose ! improvem5t ( sk9s :i* 7 poor or faulty 9 color2 or r1 ! object 0 to hide su* defects4 ,z ne>ly z c be asc]ta9$1 ?is practise 0 in/itut$ at "s "t dur+ or be=e ! f\rte5? c5tury1 = fur dye+ seems to h be5 common dur+ t p]iod1 z is app>5t f ! v]ses ( a well-kn[n ,g]man satiri/1 ,seba/ian ,brant1 :o liv$ 9 ! latt] "p ( ! f\rte5? c5tury3 8,man kann jetzt alles ,pelzw]k frb51 ,und tut es auf das s*le*/e g]b540 ,h[ev]1 at a lat] p]iod1 !re 0 a g5]al condemnation ( ! dye+ ( furs1 & among ! li/ ( memb]s ( ! furri]'s guilds1 none c be f\nd :o are describ$ z dy]s4 ,!re is a record ( a decree issu$ by a pr9ce 9 a ,g]man city 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 prohibit+ ! practise ( fur dye+4 ,inasmu* z furs 7 worn only by ! nobility & c]ta9 o!r privileg$ classes1 & also 7 v co/ly1 !re 0 great pr(it to be _h by dye+ inf]ior sk9s s z to disguise ! poor color1 & !n sell+ su* furs at ! price ( sup]ior quality sk9s4 ,?is 0 und\bt$ly ! reason = ! prohibitory decree1 b !re 7 "s :o cont9u$ to practise ! =bidd5 art 9 secret1 us+ seclud$ & out-(-!-way places = _! work%ops1 & mix+ _! c>efully-gu>d$ recipes ) z mu* my/]y z ! wit*es did _! magic potions4 ,^! circum/ances probably acc\nt = ! great am\nt ( my/]y :i* has be51 & /ill is to a consid]able degree1 atta*$ to fur dye+1 & also expla9s ! opprobrium & di/ru/ ) :i* fur dy]s 7 =m]ly reg>d$4 ,ev5 at ! pres5t "t1 dye+ is (t5 employ$ to improve furs :i* are faulty 9 color4 ,x frequ5tly happ5s1 t 9 a lot ( sk9s !re are "s :i* are consid]ably (f %ade1 or 9 :i* ! color is su* z to appreciably r$uce _! value bel[ ! av]age1 ! hair be+ usually too light a %ade1 or ( unev5 color+4 ,by c>efully dye+ ^! sk9s ( inf]ior color1 !y c be made to mat* v closely ! be/ color$ sk9s ( ! p>ticul> lot ( furs1 & consequ5tly increase _! value4 ,) mo/ ( ! *eap] k9ds ( furs1 ! tr\ble & co/ ( improvem5t by dye+ w\ld n be wor? :ile today2 b ) "s ( ! m valuable furs1 & especially su* z are v highly priz$1 l ! ,russian sable1 or m>t51 or *9*illa1 ! d>k5+ ( light sk9s by ! skillful application ( fa/ dyes to ! extreme tips ( ! hair1 w increase _! value suffici5tly to w>rant ! exp5se4 ,?is dye+ or 8bl5d+0 z x is call$ 9 su* cases1 is done 9 su* a clev] & arti/ic mann] t only exp]ts c di/+ui% !m f ! natural4 ,dye+ us$ = su* purposes is n objectionable1 provid$ ! sk9s are sold z dy$ or 8bl5d$40 ,!re are c]ta9 k9ds ( furs1 su* z ! v>i\s lambs1 ,p]sian1 ,a/ra*an1 ,c>acul1 etc41 :i* are nev] us$ 9 _! natural color1 because x is usually ( a ru/y br[ni%-black4 ,^! are furs possess+ valuable qualities o!rwise1 s !y are dy$ a pretty %ade ( black1 :i* br+s out ! beauty ( ! fur to ! fulle/ ext5t4 ,sealsk9s are also dy$ always4 ,=m]ly !y 7 dy$ a deep1 ri* d>k br[n1 resembl+ ! f9e/ %ades ( ! natural color1 b n[ ! seals are dy$ black ) a br[ni% und]tone1 a color q diff]5t f ! natural4 ,:ile ^! two in/ances _c be said to be cases ( dye+ to disguise faulty color1 !y are examples ( improvem5t ( color by dye+4 ,closely associat$ ) ! use ( dyes to increase ! value ( a fur by improv+ its color1 is ! dye+ ( sk9s ( a c]ta9 lot ( furs to produce a uni=m %ade1 !reby facilitat+ or to a consid]able degree elim9at+ ! task ( mat*+ ! sk9s by ! furri]4 ,?is is usually done only on sk9s :i* are q small1 ( :i* a great _m are ne$$ 9 ! manufacture ( fur g>m5ts1 because ! mat*+ ( sev]al hundr$ sk9s w\ld entail too mu* "t & labor comm5surate ) ! value ( ! fur4 ,! mo/ notable in/ance ( ! use ( dyes to produce a uni=m %ade on furs is ! case ( ! molesk94 ,occasionally1 furs are dy$ aft] be+ made into g>m5ts1 by c>eful application ( dyes1 9 ord] to obta9 c]ta9 h>moni\s effects1 su* z uni=mity ( /ripe1 or to produce a desir$ gradation ( %ade among ! diff]5t sk9s compris+ ! g>m5t4 ,n infrequ5tly1 ! great v>iety ( %ades & color s*emes :i* ,nature provides 9 ! diff]5t furs1 becomes insuffici5t to satisfy ! desire ( ! fur-we>+ public = some?+ new4 ,! :ims ( fa%ion always require "s novel effect1 ev5 ?\gh x be = only "o season4 ,to meet ?is dem& = novelty1 fantasy or mode %ades are produc$ on suitable furs1--colors :i* d n imitate ^? ( any animal at all1 b :i*1 nev]!less1 /rike ! popul> fancy4 ,x (t5 happ5s t su* a color becomes q popul>1 & enjoys a consid]able vogue1 to ! great pr(it ( ^? :o introduc$ ! p>ticul> color effect4 ,! be/ ones1 h[ev]1 meet ) only a comp>atively %ort-liv$ dem&1 be+ soon sup]s$$ by diff]5t color novelties4 ,! basis1 ?\gh1 ( ! greate/ proportion ( fur dye+ at ! pres5t "t1 is ! imitation ( ! m valuable furs on *eap] or inf]ior sk9s4 ,) ! gradual popul>ization ( furs z we>+ app>el s9ce ! beg9n+ ( ! la/ c5tury1 ! dem& = furs ( all k9ds has increas$ enorm\sly4 ,! supply ( furs1 on ! o!r h&1 & especially ( ! r>] k9ds1 has _h difficulty 9 keep+ pace ) ! requirem5ts1 & z a result !re is a %ortage4 ,a v effective means ( reliev+ ?is %ortage1 to a great degree1 at any rate1 is ! dye+ ( imitations ( ! sc>c] furs on *eap] sk9s4 ,!re are _m animals among ! m common1 & m easily obta9able ones1 ^: sk9s are admirably suit$ z ! basis ( imitations ( ! m co/ly furs4 ,"s ( ! furs :i* are adapt$ = purposes ( dye+ imitations are m>mot1 r$ fox1 rabbit1 h>e1 muskrat1 squirrel1 opossum1 raccoon1 & _m o!rs1 & ! imitations made are ^? ( m9k1 sable1 m>t51 skunk1 seal1 *9*illa1 etc41 & inde$1 !re are v few valuable furs1 :i* h n be5 dy$ 9 imitation on *eap] pelts4 ,on acc\nt ( ! g5]al my/]y :i* =m]ly surr\nd$ fur dye+ e/abli%m5ts1 & :i* has p]si/$ to ?is day1 al?\gh to a less] degree1 _m peculi> notions 7 held1 ev5 by ^? 9 ! fur trade1 conc]n+ ! production ( imitations4 ,! idea t 9 ord] to 8make0 a c]ta9 fur out ( a *eap] sk91 x 0 necess>y to use ! blood ( ! animal imitat$1 is typical ( ! conceptions ( fur dye+ held n s long ago4 ,to-day1 :ile ! k g5]ally possess$ ab\t ?is bran* ( ! fur indu/ry is meagre & vague1 ! air ( my/]y & secrecy has become some:at cl>ifi$1 & su* ideas z are curr5t ab\t fur dye+ are m rational ?an =m]ly4 ,! dye+ ( imitations is q an arti/ic k9d ( "w1 & inde$ fur dye+ ought to be class$ among ! f9e/ ( indu/rial arts4 ,"s ( ! reproductions a*iev$ by dy]s on a comm]cial scale are truly admirable4 ,! possibility ( imitat+ ! f9] furs on *eap] sk9s naturally l$ to abuse1 ! dy$ furs be+ pass$ (f frequ5tly on ! unsuspect+ & un9=m$ buy] z ! g5u9e orig9al4 ,9 fact1 ?is practise became s flagrant t 9 ,engl& laws 7 enact$ to rem$y ! evil4 ,at ! pres5t "t1 dy$ furs are all sold z su*1 al?\gh !re always may be "s unscrupul\s m]*ants :o seek to pr(it by deception4 ,"s ( ! imitations & ! names ( ! furs = :i* !y 7 sold1 are z foll[s3 ,muskrat1 dy$ & pluck$ sold z seal ,nutria1 pluck$ & dy$ sold z seal ,nutria1 pluck$ & natural sold z beav] ,rabbit1 %e>$ & dy$ sold z seal or electric seal ,ott]1 pluck$ & dy$ sold z seal ,m>mot1 dy$ sold z m9k or sable ,fit*1 dy$ sold z sable ,rabbit1 dy$ sold z sable ,rabbit1 dy$ & %e>$ sold z beav] ,muskrat1 dy$ sold z m9k or sable ,h>e1 dy$ sold z sable1 fox1 or lynx ,wallaby1 dy$ sold z skunk ,:ite rabbit1 natural sold z erm9e ,:ite rabbit1 dy$ sold z *9*illa ,:ite h>e1 dy$ or natural sold z foxes1 etc4 ,goat1 dy$ sold z be>1 leop>d1 etc4 ,?is li/ s]ves to indicate b a few ( ! great numb] ( possibilities :i* are available = ! fur dy] to produce imitations ( ! bett] classes ( furs4 ,ne$less to say1 ^! imitations _c1 z a g5]al rule1 equal ! orig9als1 because :ile ! color is "o ( ! mo/ important features 9 judg+ ! fur1 ! nature ( ! hair1 gloss1 wav9ess1 ?ickness1 & also ! durability are ess5tial consid]ations1 & x is only 9 c]ta9 in/ances t sk9s us$ = imitations approa* ! orig9als 9 ^! respects4 ,h[ev]1 = ! purposes & desires ( ! majority ( p :o we> furs1 ! imitations are deem$ q satisfactory1 & !y also h ! advantage ( be+ *eap] ?an ! natural orig9als4 ,= :i*ev] reason furs are dy$1 !re is no d\bt t ! art ( fur dye+ is "o ( ! mo/ difficult k9ds ( application ( dye mat]ials4 ,9 ! dye+ ( ! v>i\s textiles1 ei!r z ske9 or wov5 fabric1 ! mat]ial is ( a uni=m nature1 & !re=e ! dye is absorb$ ev5ly by ! fibres4 ,moreov]1 textiles are dy$ at1 or ne> ! boil1 ! dye/uff be+ m uni=mly & p]man5tly tak5 up f solution by ! fibre at elevat$ temp]atures4 ,h[ diff]5t is ! case ) furs6 ,f> f be+ homog5e\s1 furs pres5t ! greate/ possible div]sity ( fibres to be dy$4 ,z already not$ else:]e1 fur consi/s ( two pr9cipal p>ts1 ! hair & ! lea!r1 diff]+ widely 9 _! actions t[>d dyes4 ,z a g5]al rule1 ! lea!r absorbs dye/uffs mu* m readily ?an ! pelage1 & inasmu* z fur dye+ is int5d$ ma9ly & prim>ily to apply to ! hair1 !re is usually an appreciable loss ( dye mat]ial due to its be+ absorb$ by ! lea!r1 & !reby r5d]$ unavailable = dye+ ! hair4 ,?is fact mu/ be tak5 into acc\nt 9 ! dye+ ( furs1 & ! me?ods mu/ be adapt$ accord+ly4 ,) ref]5ce to ! hair itself1 n only has ea* class ( furs hair ( a diff]5t k9d1 b ev5 9 ! same gr\p !re is always a consid]able div]g5ce 9 ! prop]ties ( ! hair4 ,! fur-hair1 be+ m or less ( a woolly nature1 takes up ! dye ) comp>ative ease1 :ile ! top-hair is q resi/ant to ! action ( all dye mat]ials4 ,z po9t$ out 9 ! discussion ( ! nature ( fur1 on diff]5t p>ts ( ! same pelt ! hair v>ies 9 its capacity = absorb+ color+ matt]s4 ,! color ( ! hair1 also frequ5tly pres5ts a great v>iety ?r\gh\t ! sk91 bo? 9 fur-hair & top-hair4 ,yet ) all ?is lack ( uni=mity & homog5eity1 ! dy$ fur mu/ be ( an ev5 color1 closely approa*+ ! natural1 g5tly grad$ & )\t any h>% or unduly contra/$ effects4 ,! natural gloss ( ! hair1 "o ( ! mo/ valuable qualities ( ! fur1 mu/ be pres]v$4 ,?is is by no means a simple matt]1 = ! lu/] is affect$ by dyes & *emicals ) comp>ative ease1 & especially c>eful treatm5t is necess>y to prev5t any dim9ution ( ! gloss4 ,:5 ! lea!r "p ( ! fur is expos$ to solutions ( a temp]ature exce$+ #dj-ej c5tigrade1 x soon %rivels up or %r9ks1 & on dry+ ! pelt1 becomes h>d & brittle1 & !re=e q useless4 ,me?ods ( fur dye+ h to take into consid]ation ?is fact1 & ! temp]ature ( ! dyeba? mu/ n be great] ?an #ce-dj c5tigrade4 ,to be sure1 c]ta9 dress+s make furs capable ( )/&+ mu* high] temp]atures1 b _! applicability is n univ]sal1 be+ suit$ only = a v limit$ special class ( dye/uffs4 7,v4 ,fur ,dress+74 ,! necessity = employ+ comp>atively l[ temp]atures1 c\pl$ ) ! great resi/ance ( ! hair to ! absorption ( dye1 ev5 at mu* high] temp]atures1 makes fur-dye+ a v difficult op]ation inde$4 ,ano!r ob/acle :i* mu/ be surm\nt$1 is ! possibility ( extraction by ! dye solution1 ( ^? mat]ials1 *emical or o!rwise1 :i* are conta9$ 9 ! lea!r1 & :i* are ! basis ( its p]man5ce1 s(tness & flexibility4 ,= 9 ! majority ( dress+ processes1 ! action ( ! +r$i5ts is a pres]vative "o1 & :5 ^! are :olly or p>tially remov$ f ! lea!r dur+ ! dye+1 x becomes1 on dry+1 h>d & horny1 l ! orig9al undress$ pelt4 ,9 cases :]e furs are to be dy$1 special dye-resi/+ dress+s mu/ be us$1 or ! dy$ sk9s mu/ receive an additional dress+ be=e dry+4 ,dye+s on furs1 to h any value1 mu/ possess great fa/ness to light1 rubb+ & we>1 & mu/ n *ange color 9 "t1 ei!r :5 ! furs are /or$1 or :5 made up into g>m5ts4 ,! necessity = fur dye+s to h ^! prop]ties1 toge!r ) ! difficulties outl9$ above1 has greatly limit$ ! field ( available dye+ mat]ials1 z well z ! me?ods ( application4 ,^! w n[ be tak5 up 9 detail4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,fur ,,dye+ ,,g5]al ,,me?ods ,be=e ! furs c be dy$1 !y h to und]go c]ta9 prep>atory processes3 fir/1 kill+1 :i* r5d]s ! hair m susceptible to ! absorption ( ! dye2 & second1 mordant+1 :i* consi/s 9 treat+ ! kill$ fur ) *emicals :i* help ! dye to be fix$ on ! hair4 ,!n ! sk9s are ready to be dy$4 ,!re are two pr9cipal me?ods by :i* dyes are appli$ to furs 9 practise3 ! bru% process1 :]eby only ! tips or ! upp] "p ( ! hair are color$2 & ! dip process1 :]eby ! entire fur1 includ+ ! lea!r is dy$4 ,all o!r proc$ures 9 fur dye+ are modifications or comb9ations ( ^! two4 ,kill+ solutions & mordant+ solutions are also appli$ by "o ( ^! me?ods1 usually ! dip process1 al?\gh v frequ5tly comb9ations ( ! bru% & dip me?ods are us$4 ,*ronologically ! bru% me?od ( dye+ came fir/4 ,! e>ly ma/]s ( ! art 7 extremely fe>ful ab\t employ+ any means by :i* !re 0 a possibility ( ! lea!r be+ 9 any way affect$4 ,!y naturally _h to devise su* me?ods z w\ld give ! desir$ effect 9 a satisfactory mann]1 & z w\ld be conf9$ solely to ! hair "p ( ! fur1 leav+ ! lea!r unt\*$4 ,by apply+ ! dye or o!r mat]ial to be us$1 9 ! =m ( a pa/e ) a bru%1 ! upp] portion ( ! hair only 0 treat$4 ,= diff]5t k9ds ( furs diff]5t sorts ( bru%es 7 us$1 & ! dep? to :i* ! hair 0 color$ c\ld be controll$ by skillful manipulation ( ! bru%es4 ,x 0 frequ5tly necess>y to give a gr\nd color to ! hair1 ! l[] "p be+ dy$ a diff]5t %ade f ! tips4 ,?is 0 accompli%$ by spread+ ! dye pa/e ov] ! hair ) a broad bru%1 & !n beat+ ! color 9 ) a specially adapt$ beat+ bru%4 ,) l>g] furs1 two sk9s 7 plac$ hair to hair aft] ! dye _h be5 bru%$ on1 & ! color =c$ to ! bottom ( ! hair by a workman tramp+ on ! sk9s4 ,! dye+ ( seal 0 a typical illu/ration ( ^! proc$ures4 ,fir/ ! tips ( ! hair 7 dy$4 ,! color 0 bru%$ on1 all[$ to dry1 !n ! excess beat5 out ) rods4 ,^! op]ations 7 repeat$ until ! prop] dep? ( %ade 0 obta9$1 (t5 z _m z a doz5 or m applications ( ! dye be+ necess>y4 ,!n ! base color 0 spread ov] ! hair1 & beat5 or tramp$ 9 until ! l[] p>ts ( ! hair 7 p5etrat$4 ,?is process also requir$ dry+ & beat+ out ( ! excess dye1 z well z num]\s applications ( ! dye to imp>t ! desir$ color to ! hair4 ,prior to ! dye+1 ! furs 7 kill$1 by bru%+ on a pa/e conta9+ ! ess5tial +r$i5ts1 dry+ & beat+ & bru%+ ! fur1 j ! same z 9 dye+4 ,x w be readily se5 t su* me?ods 7 exce$+ly labori\s1 & 9 "s cases ! dye+ took _m weeks1 & ev5 mon?s4 ,x 0 q a /ep =w>d :5 a c]ta9 fur dy]1 possess+ a little m c\rage1 or p]haps1 exp]im5t+ _s ?an ! o!rs1 attempt$ to dye furs by dipp+ !m entirely into a ba? conta9+ a solution ( ! dye in/ead ( apply+ a pa/e z =m]ly4 ,! advantages to be ga9$ by su* a me?od ( dye+ 7 _m4 ,a l>ge numb] ( sk9s c\ld be treat$ ?us at "o "t1 & ?is 0 a v important consid]ation 9 view ( ! great increase 9 ! dem& = dy$ furs4 ,by all[+ ! furs to rema9 9 ! dye solution until ! prop] %ade 0 obta9$1 ! "t & labor ( apply+ _m coats ( dye by bru% 0 consid]ably r$uc$1 & 9 addition1 !re 0 a great] probability ( ! products com+ out all alike1 uni=mly dy$4 ,! results z f> z ! hair 0 conc]n$1 7 inde$ highly gratify+1 b ! condition ( ! lea!r aft] dye+ 0 n s enc\rag+4 ,?is difficulty has to a consid]able degree be5 ov]come1 al?\gh !re are frequ5t in/ances ( ! lea!r be+ affect$ by ! dye+ process ev5 ) mod]n me?ods4 ,h[ev]1 ! rem$y 9 su* cases1 or r ! prev5tative is ! prop] dress+ ( ! sk9s prior to ! dye+4 ,! dip me?od ( dye+ has acquir$ great importance1 & is be+ employ$ 9 dye+ op]ations involv+ ! h&l+ ( millions ( sk9s annually4 ,9 c]ta9 in/ances1 nev]!less1 ! bru% me?od is ( prime significance z 9 ! dye+ ( seal1 & seal imitations on muskrat & coney1 enorm\s quantities ( furs be+ dy$ 9 ?is fa%ion4 ,9 ! majority ( imitations dy$1 bo? ! bru% & ! dip me?ods mu/ be us$4 ,figure #ai illu/rates ! v>i\s types ( bru%es :i* are us$ at ! pres5t "t = ! application ( ! dye by ! bru% me?od4 ,ea* bru% has a specific purpose & use4 ,! proc$ure 9 bru% dye+ is some:at z foll[s4 ,! sk9s1 aft] be+ prop]ly treat$1 t is1 kill$1 & mordant$1 are plac$ on a table1 or "w-b5*1 hair-side up4 ,!n by means ( a bru% :i* is adapt$ to ! nature & requirem5ts ( ! p>ticul> fur1 ! solution is bru%$ on 9 ! direction ( ! fall ( ! hair1 occasionally beat+ g5tly ) ! bru% s z to cause ! dye to p5etrate to ! desir$ dep?4 ,consid]able skill & c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ 9 ?is op]ation z x is r easy to =ce ! dye d[n fur!r ?an is want$1 & 9 "s cases ! lea!r or ! roots ( ! hair may be affect$4 ,! sk9 hav+ receiv$ its coat ( dye1 is !n dri$ & f9i%$1 if no o!r dye+ processes are to be appli$4 ,frequ5tly1 ) c]ta9 types ( dyes1 sev]al applications ( color are necess>y1 & ^! are bru%$ on z ! fir/ "o1 dry+ ea* "t4 ,!n1 on ! o!r h&1 ! sk9 may receive a dye+ 9 ! ba? by dipp+1 & = ?is also1 ! fur is fir/ dri$ aft] ! bru% dye+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,,bru%es ,,us$ ,,9 ,,fur ,,dye+ ,,by ,,! ,,bru% ,,me?od4 ,q rec5tly1 ow+ to ! great quantities ( furs :i* are be+ dy$ z seal imitations1 *iefly by ! bru% me?od1 al?\gh ! dip me?od is us$ 9 conjunction ) x1 ma*9es h be5 inv5t$ to replace ! h& bru%1 & ! dye is n[ appli$ me*anically4 ,ma*9es = ?is purpose are by no means new1 !re be+ records ( inv5tions almo/ a score ( ye>s pa/1 b !y did n a*ieve mu* success4 ,bru%-dye+ ma*9es1 to be effici5t1 mu/ be design$ to suit ! ne$s ( ! p>ticul> type ( fur to be dy$1 o!rwise !re w be a great lack ( uni=mity 9 ! dy$ sk9s1 a condition :i* _c occur :5 ! dye is bru%$ on by h& bru%es4 ,figure #bj;,a & ,b %[s diagrammatically1 ma*9es inv5t$ )9 ! pa/ few ye>s1 :i* are us$ to dye me*anically furs by ! bru% process4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,,types ,,( ,,ma*9es ,,= ,,dye+ ,,furs ,,by ,,! ,,bru% ,,me?od4 ,a4 7,u4 ,s4 ,pat5t #a1bbe1ddg47 ,b4 7,u4 ,s4 ,pat5t #a1cdc1cee47 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,,drum ,,= ,,work+ ,,) ,,liquids4 7,turn] ,tann+ ,ma*9]y ,co41 ,peabody1 ,mass47 ,= ! dipp+ process1 ! dye solution is prep>$ 9 vats1 or liquid-tight drums1 or 9 "s in/ances 9 paddle arrangem5ts4 ,! sk9s are plac$ 9 ! dye-ba?1 & ! dye+ op]ation proce$s )\t any difficulty4 ,aft] ! prop] %ade is obta9$1 ! furs are remov$1 wa%$ free ( excess dye1 dri$ & f9i%$4 ,! dipp+ me?od is employ$ :]e a s+le %ade is to be dy$ on ! fur1 z ! production ( blacks on lambs4 ,b 9 mo/ cases1 ! dye+ 9 ! ba? is supplem5t$ by ! application ( a coat ( dye by ! bru% to ! upp] "p ( ! hair1 ! color be+ usually a d>k] %ade ?an ! gr\nd dye+4 ,?us1 = example1 9 ! dye+ ( imitation sable on kol9sky or a simil> fur1 ! sk9s are fir/ dy$ ! relatively light color ( ! "u-hair by ! dip process1 !n ! d>k /ripe effect is bru%$ on4 ,! bl5d+ ( sables1 m>t5s1 *9*illas or o!r r>e furs1 is n done 9 ! same mann] z ) o!r furs1 because ea* sk9 requires individual att5tion & a long & c>eful treatm5t4 ,! dye solution is appli$ by means ( v f9e bru%es or sometimes fea!rs1 to ! extreme tips ( ! hair1 until ! prop] degree ( color int5sity is obta9$4 ,! "t1 labor1 & skill necess>y = ?is sort ( "w are w>rant$ only 9 ! case ( ! highe/-pric$ furs1 & ! bl5d+s are s excell5t z to defy detection1 except by exp]ts4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,,device ,,= ,,convey+ ,,sk9s4 7,turn] ,tann+ ,ma*9]y ,co41 ,peabody1 ,mass47 ,aft] ! furs h gone ?r\gh all ! op]ations requir$ by ! processes ( kill+1 mordant+1 dye+ & wa%+1 !y are ready to be dri$ & f9i%$4 ,! proc$ure is q simil> to t employ$ 9 fur dress+4 ,sometimes ! lea!r side ( ! sk9s is bru%$ ) a /rong salt solution be=e dry+1 9 ord] to replace "s ( ! salt :i* 0 extract$ dur+ ! dye+ processes4 ,9 o!r in/ances1 a light coat ( "s oily sub/ance is bru%$ on1 to r5d] ! lea!r s(t & flexible aft] dry+1 :]e !re is a possibility ( ! sk9s turn+ out o!rwise4 ,great c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ 9 ! h&l+ ( ! dy$ sk9s to avoid ! =mation ( /a9s or spots on ! hair1 :i* might ru9 ! dye+4 ,z little h&l+ ( ! furs z is feasible w r$uce any tr\ble f ?is s\rce4 ,9 convey+ ! wet sk9s f "o "p ( ! plant to ano!r x is desirable to use a device su* z is %[n 9 ,fig4 #bb4 ,= dry+1 ! same ma*9es z describ$ "u ,fur ,dress+ c be us$1 & simil> c>e mu/ be tak5 to avoid ov]heat+ or irregul>ity ( dry+4 ,drum-clean+ con/itutes a v important op]ation 9 ! f9i%+ ( ! sk9s1 ! hair receiv+ a poli%1 & ! full lu/re & brilliancy ( ! dye be+ !reby br\ght out4 ,!n aft] cag+ to remove ! sawdu/ or s&1 ! sk9s are pass$ ov] ! /ak+ knife1 or are treat$ 9 a ma*9e suit$ = ! purpose1 to /ret* !m & to r5d] !m ?or\ghly s(t & flexible4 ,& !re) is conclud$ ! "w ( ! fur dy] prop]1 & ! sk9s are ready to return to ! furri]1 9 ^: h&s !y und]go ! metamorphosis into ! fur g>m5ts to be worn *iefly by ! fem99e portion ( humanity4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,fur ,,dye+ 8,,kill+0 ,,! ,,furs ,if dress$ furs are treat$ ) a pa/e or solution ( a dye prop]ly prep>$1 & at ! "r temp]ature1 ! hair w %[ v little t5d5cy to absorb ! color+ matt]4 ,ev5 aft] prolong$ treatm5t ) ! dye1 only a small am\nt w be tak5 up by ! hair1 & 9 a v irregul> fa%ion4 ,s(t1 woolly hair1 l t ( lambs & goats w be color$ m easily ?an t ( furs ) h>d] hair1 & ! "u-hair ( a fur w g5]ally h a great] aff9ity = ! dye ?an ! h>d] & /iff] top-hair4 ,moreov]1 9 "s p>ts ( ! same fur1 ! hair w absorb m color ?an 9 o!r p>ts4 ,9 o!r words1 ! hair ( furs resi/s ! action ( dye mat]ials to a great] or less degree1 dep5d+ ^u ! "* ( ! fur1 & also ^u ! "p ( ! pelt4 ,9 ord] to ov]come ?is resi/ance ( ! hair1 & to r5d] x uni=mly receptive to ! color+ sub/ances1 ! furs are treat$ ) c]ta9 *emical ag5ts1 ! process be+ kn[n te*nically z 8kill+40 ,! orig9 ( ! t]m is obscure1 b x is int]e/+ to note t 9 ! fur dye+ c\ntries o!r ?an ! ,unit$ ,/ates & ,engl&1 ! correspond+ expression is us$3 9 ,g]many1 8tt510 & 9 ,france 8tu]40 ,! explanation ( ! process is z foll[s3 ,! surface ( ! hair is cov]$ ) a f9e coat ( fatty mat]ial :i* r5d]s ! hair m or less imp]vi\s to dye solutions & solutions ( o!r sub/ances :i* may be us$ = dye+ purposes4 ,?is fatty coat+ ( ! hair _c be remov$ by me*anical means1 o!rwise ! hair w\ld h be5 fre$ ( x dur+ ! dress+ op]ations4 ,*emical solv5ts mu/ !re=e be resort$ to1 & naturally alkal9e mat]ials are us$1 ^! be+ usually *eape/ & also mo/ effective 9 _! dissolv+ action on fatty sub/ances4 ,alcohol1 e!r1 b5z9e1 & o!r simil> liquids also s]ve z kill+ ag5ts on furs1 s9ce !y too1 are fat solv5ts4 ,9 all ^! cases1 ! fatty sub/ance on ! hair is dissolv$ away1 & ! protective coat :i* previ\sly r5d]$ ! hair imp]vi\s to ! dye1 is n[ remov$4 ,!re are c]ta9 *emicals h[ev]1 :i* normally d n dissolve sub/ances ( a fatty nature1 b are /rongly oxidiz+1 su* z p]oxide ( hydrog51 hypo*lorites1 p]manganates1 p]borates1 nitric acid1 etc41 & ex]t a kill+ action :5 !y are appli$ to ! hair1 9 t ! hair is made capable ( tak+ up ! dye f its solutions4 ,9 ?is case ! kill+ c h>dly be said to be due to a degreas+ process4 ,! fact t kill+ c be br\ght ab\t ) o!r sub/ances ?an alkalies or fat solv5ts1 has l$ to ! belief on ! "p ( "s inve/igators 9 ?is field t kill+ is m ?an a degreas+ op]ation1 al?\gh ! removal ( ! fatty mat]ial ( ! hair und\bt$ly takes place4 ,"s au?orities consid] t ! kill+ process *anges ! pigm5t ( ! hair1 :i* !reby becomes m receptive to ! dye4 ,x is q possible t "s su* *ange 9 ! /ructure ( ! hair fibre does take place1 ! surface ( ! hair becom+ slightly r\gh5$1 & !re=e m capable ( fix+ ! color+ matt]4 ,! "q is /ill an op5 "o1 & s9ce no conclusive rese>*es h be5 made z yet1 x w be assum$ t kill+ is simply a degreas+ process1 inasmu* z ! mod]n practise is bas$ on ?is supposition1 & v satisfactory results are obta9$4 ,an acc\nt ( ! hi/orical developm5t ( ! kill+ process br+s out _m int]e/+ & enlight5+ facts1 s x w be giv5 "h briefly4 ,"o ( ! fir/ sub/ances us$ = kill+1 or degreas+ ! hair ( furs1 0 decompos+ ur9e4 ,ur9e conta9s ab\t #b ( urea :i* gradually *anges to salts ( ammonia1 & 9 ! pres5ce ( ! air1 l>gely to ammonium c>bonate4 ,?is sub/ance has a weak alkal9e action1 b suffici5tly effective to be us$ = kill+ ! hair ( c]ta9 types ( furs4 ,woolly furs1 su* z ^? d]iv$ f ! v>i\s k9ds ( %eep & goats1 7 degreas$ ) /ale ur9e1 ! sk9s be+ wa%$ 9 ?is1 & !n r9s$ 9 wat]4 ,! fat 0 emulsifi$ by ! ammonium c>bonate pres5t1 & c\ld ?us be easily remov$4 ,= o!r furs1 a /rong] mixture 0 necess>y4 ,an example ( a kill+ =mula us$ on wolf1 skunk & raccoon1 :i* 7 to be dy$ black1 is ! foll[+3 #cej grams bee*wood a%es #bjj grams unslak$ lime #aej grams copp] vitriol #ajj grams li?>ge #fj grams salammoniac #dj grams cry/alliz$ v]digris #c4e lit]s ra9 wat] ,bee*wood a%es 7 a v important con/itu5t ( ! old kill+ =mulas4 ,! reason = t lies 9 ! fact t bee*wood conta9s a comp>atively high p]c5tage ( potassium1 :i* occurs 9 ! a%es ( ! burn$ wood z potassium c>bonate1 or pota%4 ,! a%es alone 7 frequ5tly us$1 be+ appli$ 9 ! =m ( a pa/e1 :i* 9 "s in/ances _h an advantage ov] a solution1 9 t ! kill+ c\ld be limit$ to c]ta9 p>ts ( ! sk9 :]e x 0 m desir$ ?an 9 o!r p>ts4 ,by extract+ ! wood a%es ) hot wat]1 & evaporat+ ! cle> solution to dryness1 pota% c\ld be obta9$1 :i* 0 consid]ably /rong] ?an ! orig9al a%es4 ,next 9 importance = ! kill+ 0 unslak$ lime4 ,?is sub/ance 0 also (t5 us$ by itself1 be+ fir/ slak$ ) wat]1 & us+ ! milk ( lime ?us =m$1 aft] cool+4 ,salammoniac1 al?\gh a salt1 & consequ5tly )\t any kill+ action1 9 contact ) ! bee*wood a%es or ! lime 9 solution or pa/e1 lib]at$ ammonia sl[ly1 & s also act$ z a degreas+ ag5t4 ,! o!r *emicals 9 ! =mula took no "p 9 ! actual kill+ ( ! hair1 b act$ ei!r z mordant mat]ials or z m9]al dyes4 ,! copp] salts1 9 ?is mixture pres5t 9 two =ms1 z sulphate 9 copp] vitriol1 & z acetate 9 ! v]digris1 7 important con/itu5ts ( ! dye =mula1 be+ ess5tial to ! production ( ! prop] %ade4 ,^! sub/ances prop]ly _h no place 9 ! kill+ =mula4 ,! li?>ge1 also 0 n a kill+ ag5t1 b 9 ! pres5ce ( ! alkal9e mat]ials ( ! kill+ mixture1 x gradually comb9$ ) ! sulphur conta9$ 9 ! hair1 =m+ lead sulphide1 & !reby d>k5+ ! color ( ! hair4 ,9 ?is case1 ! metallic comp\nd act$1 n z a mordant1 b z a m9]al dye4 ,! mixture 0 appli$ to ! hair by means ( a bru%1 ! sk9s let lie = "s "t1 !n dri$1 bru%$ & beat54 ,_m applications 7 usually necess>y to suffici5tly degrease ! hair4 ,inasmu* z ! kill+ pa/e 0 prep>$ by mix+ ! con/itu5ts toge!r1 & !n 0 bru%$ on at ! comp>atively l[ temp]atures :i* ! prop] protection ( ! hair requir$1 x is que/ionable :e!r "s ( ! metal comp\nds 7 ev5 enabl$ to act z describ$ above z mordant or dye4 ,9 spite ( ! tr\ble & consid]able "t requir$ 9 work+ ) su* a kill+ =mula to obta9 ! hair 9 ! desir$ condition = dye+1 ! use ( su* a mixture nev]!less possess$ ! advantage t ! hair 0 only v sl[ly & gradually act$ ^u1 & s ! gloss 0 pres]v$4 ,! action ( /rong alkal9e sub/ances act+ quickly is m or less detrim5tal to keep+ ! gloss ( ! hair1 :ile ! sl[ action ( ! weak alkal9e pa/e ( ! old =mulas1 & ! gradual =mation ( a protective metal film on ! surface ( ! hair1 r5d]$ ! hair suitably receptive to ! dye :i* 0 subsequ5tly appli$1 )\t 9 any measure affect+ ! lu/re ( ! hair4 ,x w\ld be ne$less to describe or discuss any m ( ! old kill+ =mulas1 = ! pr9ciple involv$ 0 ! same 9 all cases1 !re be+ usually a slight v>iation 9 ! cont5t ( metallic salts1 bee*wood a%es & unslak$ lime be+ con/itu5ts ( ! great majority ( ! mixtures us$4 ,mod]n kill+ processes employ sub/ances q simil> to ^? ( ! old =mulas1 ! op]ations1 h[ev]1 be+ mu* less labori\s & less "t-consum+1 & ! *eap1 pure products :i* *emical sci5ce has be5 able to develop be+ us$ 9 place ( ! crude products crudely obta9$ f natural s\rces4 ,! *emicals us$ at ! pres5t "t = kill+ furs1 are *iefly ammonia1 soda a%1 cau/ic soda1 & cau/ic lime4 ,! *oice ( ! kill+ ag5t dep5ds ^u ! nature ( ! fur1 ! hair ( "s furs be+ suffici5tly kill$ by treatm5t ) weak alkalies1 :ile 9 o!r furs ! hair may require /rong] treatm5t4 ,! ability ( ! hair ( a p>ticul> fur to )/& ! action ( ! diff]5t alkal9e sub/ances mu/ be tak5 into consid]ation1 !re be+ a great div]g5ce 9 ?is reg>d among ! diff]5t classes ( furs4 ,raccoon1 = example1 is n appreciably affect$ by a solution ( cau/ic soda ( #e degrees ,beaum1 :ile "s wolf hair _c )/& ! action ( a solution ( soda a% ( less ?an #a degree ,beaum4 ,frequ5tly mu* /rong] alkalies are necess>y to kill ! top-hair ?an ! "u-hair1 s ?is accompli%$ by treat+ ! sk9s 9 a solution :i* is suit$ to kill ! "u-hair1 & subsequ5tly ! top-hair is treat$ ) a /rong] solution1 ?is be+ appli$ by ! bru% me?od4 ,uni=mity ( action ( ! kill+ mat]ial on all p>ts ( ! sk91 & on all ! sk9s ( a giv5 lot1 is absolutely ess5tial to obta9+ satisfactory results 9 dye+4 ,& x is by no means a simple matt] to get su* uni=mity1 consid]+ ! num]\s factors t mu/ be tak5 into acc\nt4 ,any op]ation involv+ ! imm]sion ( ! sk9s 9 solutions or ev5 9 wat] alone1 has an effect on ! lea!r side ( ! sk91 inasmu* z "s ( ! tann+ mat]ials may be extract$4 ,! application ( "s sub/ance ( a fatty nature to a great degree prev5ts ?is1 & ! sk9 c be kill$1 mordant$ & dy$1 & !n come out s(t & flexible4 ,b ! great majority ( sub/ances ( a fatty nature are affect$ by alkalies1 & s :5 ! sk9s are be+ kill$1 ! action ( ! alkal9e mat]ials w\ld be ^u ! fat conta9$ 9 ! lea!r z well z t ^u ! hair4 ,z a result ! hair may n be suffici5tly kill$1 & s give unev5 dye+s subsequ5tly4 ,ei!r a c]ta9 excess ( ! kill+ *emical mu/ be us$1 & x w\ld be v difficult to asc]ta9 :at quantity w\ld suffice1 or ! kill+ action mu/ be prolong$2 b be/ ( all1 9 oil+ ! sk9s1 an in]t m9]al oil %\ld be us$1 s9ce x is :olly unaffect$ by alkalies4 ,sk9s may be kill$ by ! bru% process or ! dip process1 or by bo?4 ,= bru% kill+1 ! /rong] alkalies l lime & cau/ic soda are us$1 ! solution be+ appli$ to ! top-hair ) a suitable bru%1 & ! sk9s all[$ to rema9 hair to hair = ! necess>y l5g? ( "t1 aft] :i* !y are treat$ fur!r z sk9s kill$ by ! dip process4 ,by ?is latt] process1 ! furs are imm]s$ 9 a solution ( ! desir$ kill+ ag5t 9 a vat1 or drum1 or o!r appropriate device :i* w p]mit ( uni=m action ( ! alkali on ! hair ( all ! sk9s4 ,aft] rema9+ 9 ! solution ! requir$ l5g? ( "t1 ! sk9s are dra9$1 & r9s$ 9 fre% wat]1 & !n ent]$ into a weak solution ( an acid 9 ord] to neutralize any rema9+ alkali1 x be+ easi] to wa% out acid ?an alkali4 ,! furs are !n wa%$ ?or\ghly 9 cle> wat]1 pref]ably runn+ wat]1 to remove ! la/ traces ( acid4 ,! sk9s are !n dra9$ & hydro-extract$1 or press$1 & are !n ready = ! subsequ5t op]ations ( mordant+ & dye+4 ,,kill+ ,,) ,,soda ,soda is sodium c>bonate1 :i* is produc$ comm]cially 9 a v pure /ate 9 sev]al diff]5t =ms1 ! *ief be+ sal soda1 :i* is cry/alliz$ sodium c>bonate1 conta9+ ab\t #cg ( actual soda2 & soda a%1 or calc9$ soda1 :i* is anhydr\s sodium c>bonate4 ,! latt] is ! v>iety mo/ commonly us$4 #aj grams soda a% are dissolv$ 9 #a lit] ( wat] at #be-cj ,c4 ,! sk9s are imm]s$ = #b-c h\rs1 aft] :i* !y are r9s$ & treat$ ) #aj grams acetic acid dissolv$ 9 #a lit] ( wat]4 ,! sk9s are aga9 ?or\ghly wa%$1 & !n hydro-extract$4 ,,kill+ ,,) ,,lime ,lime1 calcium oxide1 =ms a :ite1 amorph\s1 por\s sub/ance1 :i* readily takes up wat]1 giv+ calcium hydroxide1 or slak$ lime4 ,only ! be/ grades ( lime %\ld be us$1 z x is v frequ5tly contam9at$ ) calcium c>bonate & o!r in]t mat]ials4 #aj grams ( lime are dissolv$ 9 #a lit] ( wat]4 ,! sk9s are ent]$1 & all[$ to rema9 = a p]iod ( "t :i* v>ies accord+ to ! nature ( ! fur4 ,dur+ ! kill+1 ! solution mu/ be agitat$1 9 ord] to ev5ly di/ribute ! milk ( lime1 :i* has a t5d5cy to settle out4 ,aft] r9s+1 ! sk9s are 8s\r$10 by treat+ ) weak acetic acid solution1 !n ?or\ghly wa%$1 & dra9$4 ,,kill+ ,,) ,,cau/ic ,,soda ,cau/ic soda is us$ only on furs ! hair ( :i* is v h>d & resi/ant to kill+4 ,usually x is appli$ by ! bru% process1 b 9 "s in/ances1 ! dip me?od mu/ be us$4 ,9 ord] to r$uce z f> z possible1 ! action ( ! cau/ic soda on ! lea!r1 ! weake/ p]missible solutions are us$1 increas+ ! "t ( treatm5t1 if necess>y4 ,cau/ic soda is a :ite1 cry/all9e sub/ance1 occurr+ 9 comm]ce 9 lumps1 b m conv5i5tly 9 a solution ( #dj degrees ,beaum1 conta9+ #ce ( cau/ic soda4 ,v>i\s quantities1 rang+ f #d to #be grams ( ?is solution p] lit] ( wat] are tak51 accord+ to ! "* ( ! fur1 & ! sk9s treat$ = #b-c h\rs1 al?\gh weak] solutions may be us$1 & increas+ ! duration ( ! kill+4 ,by keep+ ! solution 9 motion1 by means ( a /irr] or any o!r me?od ( agitation1 ! be/ results are obta9$4 ,aft] ! sk9s are suffici5tly kill$1 !y are s\r$1 & wa%$ z by ! o!r kill+ me?ods4 ,:]e ! nature ( ! hair ( ! fur is su* t ! top-hair & ! "u-hair require diff]5t kill+ treatm5ts1 ! sk9s are fir/ kill$ by ! dip process1 ) an alkali suit$ to kill ! "u-hair1 !n a bru% kill+ ) a /rong] alkali is appli$ to ! top-hair4 ,! subsequ5t treatm5ts are ! same z = usual dip-kill+ me?ods4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,fur ,,dye+ ,,mordants ,! hair ( furs has ! peculi> quality ( fix+ ! oxides or hydroxides ( c]ta9 metals f dilute solutions ( _! salts4 ,advantage is tak5 ( ?is prop]ty to mordant ! furs1 t is1 to cause a c]ta9 am\nt ( ! metallic oxide or hydroxide to be p]man5tly absorb$ by ! fibres4 ,! t]m mordant comes f ! ,fr5* ^w 8mordre10 mean+ to bite1 x be+ =m]ly consid]$ t ! purpose ( a mordant 0 to attack ! surface ( ! hair 9 su* a way z to p]mit ! dye to be m easily absorb$4 ,9 fact1 kill+ mixtures1 :i* 7 int5d$ = ?is same object1 us$ to conta9 ! v>i\s *emicals :i* h a mordant+ action1 9 addition to ! alkal9e con/itu5ts4 ,! mordants 7 n appli$ z su*1 b always z kill+ mat]ials4 ,x 0 lat] realiz$1 h[ev]1 t ! mordant 0 in/rum5tal 9 ! production ( ! color itself4 ,mordant+ may be consid]$ z hav+ a two-fold object3 fir/1 to help fix ! dye on ! fibre 9 a m p]man5t fa%ion1 ?us r5d]+ ! dye+s fa/]2 & secondly1 to help obta9 c]ta9 %ades ( color1 z ! v>i\s mordants produce diff]5t %ades ) any giv5 dye4 ,"s classes ( dyes c be appli$ to furs )\t ! use ( mordants1 b o!r types are tak5 up only 9 a v loose mann]1 be+ easily wa%$ out f ! hair ) wat]1 & x is only :5 su* dyes are br\ght on to ! hair 9 ! =m ( a metallic comp\nd1 produc+ :at is kn[n z a 8lake10 t really fa/ dye+s are obta9$ ) !m4 ,! sub/ances :i* are us$ = mordant+ ! hair are c]ta9 metallic comp\nds1 b n all metallic salts :i* are us$ 9 dye+ are mordants4 ,sometimes su* a comp\nd is employ$ to develop ! color ( ! dye+ by aft]-treatm5t1 z 9 ! case ( aft]-*rom+1 ! action ( ! metallic salt be+ direct$ only to ! dye1 & is n fix$ by ! fibre z a mordant mu/ be4 ,9 ord] = a metallic comp\nd to act z a true mordant1 x mu/ be fix$ by ! hair1 & x mu/ comb9e ) ! dye1 ?us =m+ a sort ( connect+ l9k betwe5 ! dye & ! hair4 ,x is n absolutely ess5tial t ! mordant be appli$ fir/1 al?\gh ?is is ! cu/om>y & commone/ practise4 ,!re are ?ree ways by :i* ! mordants c be fix$ on ! fur hair3 ,fir/1 by ! absorption ( ! metallic oxide or hydroxide f a solution ( ! mordant prior to ! dye+2 second1 ! mordant may be fix$ on ! fibre at ! same "t z ! dye2 & ?ird1 ! mordant may be appli$ aft] ! fur has be5 treat$ ) ! dye4 ,! la/ two me?ods w be discuss$ 9 connection ) ! dyes1 z !y are special cases4 ,! salts ( metals :i* are comp>atively easily dissociat$ 9 wat]1 ) ! =mation ( insoluble oxides or hydroxides1 are mo/ applicable z mordants = furs1 & among !m are comp\nds ( alum9um1 iron1 *romium1 copp] & t94 ,! con/itu5ts ( ! hair seem to br+ ab\t ! dissociation ( ! metallic salt1 & ! oxide or hydroxide z ! case may be1 is absorb$ & firmly fix$ by ! hair4 ,j :at ! mann] & nature ( ?is fixation are1 is /ill unc]ta94 ,x is suppos$ t *emical comb9ation takes place betwe5 ! hair & ! metal4 ,! c\rse ( ?is process may1 z f> z is kn[n1 be describ$ z foll[s1 tak+1 = example1 ! case ( *romium sulphate3 ,9 dilute solution1 ?is comp\nd gradually dissociates fir/ into its basic salts1 & f9ally into ! hydroxide1 ! break+ up ( ! neutral salt be+ induc$ by ! pres5ce ( ! fur-hair4 ,cr7,,s7 #b;,h,o ,cr7,,s77,,oh7 ,h,,s *romium wat] fir/ basic sulphuric sulphate *rome salt acid ,cr7,,s77,,oh7 #b;,h,o ,cr7,,s77,,oh7 ,h,,s second basic *rome salt ,cr7,,s77,,oh7 #b;,h,o ,cr7,,oh7 ,h,,s *romium hydroxide ,^! reactions take place )9 ! fibre1 aft] ! hair has be5 impregnat$ ) ! solution ( ! neutral salt1 & :5 ! comp\nd has be5 r5d]$ completely basic1 9 o!r words has rea*$ ! =m ( ! hydroxide1 x is suppos$ to comb9e ) ! acid gr\ps conta9$ 9 ! hair sub/ance1 =m+ ?us "s complex1 insoluble organic comp\nd ( ! metal )9 ! hair4 ,accord+ to "s au?orities ! mordant is suppos$ to be pres5t 9 ! hair simply z ! hydroxide1 be+ t5aci\sly held by "s physical means4 ,! facts seem to indicate1 h[ev]1 t ! metal is actually comb9$ 9 "s *emical way ) ! hair4 ,=1 if ! mordant 7 pres5t z hydroxide1 !n on :ite hair x w\ld %[ ! color ( ! hydroxide1 :i* x does n4 ,! same facts obta9 ) reg>d to o!r metals4 ,9 ord] = ! hair to be prop]ly mordant$1 x is necess>y t ! metallic comp\nd :i* is tak5 up by ! hair be held 9 su* a mann] t ! mordant _c be remov$ by wat] or ev5 dilute acids or alkalies4 ,salts :i* dissociate too readily produce mordants :i* are only sup]ficially precipitat$ on ! hair & subsequ5tly come (f4 ,usually "s sub/ance is add$ to ! solution ( ! salt to cause sl[] & m ev5 dissociation ( ! salt1 s t ! hair sub/ance c be q saturat$ ) ! metallic comp\nd be=e any insoluble precipitate is =m$4 ,dilute sulphuric acid1 organic acids l acetic & lactic1 & cream ( t>t> are us$ to facilitate ! uni=m absorption ( ! mordant salt by ! hair4 ,:5 ! sk9s are mordant$ be=e dye+1 !y are imm]s$ = #f to #bd h\rs 9 a solution conta9+ #a to #bj grams ( ! metallic salts p] lit] ( wat]1 toge!r ) ! correspond+ quantity ( ! assi/ant *emical4 ,! sk9s %\ld be s ent]$ into ! mordant solution t ! hair is uni=mly 9 contact ) ! solution1 & all ! sk9s s t !y are act$ ^u alike4 ,ma*9]y su* z is us$ = kill+ is suitable = mordant+ also4 ,! duration ( ! mordant+1 & ! conc5tration ( ! solutions are v>i$ accord+ to ! dep? ( %ade requir$1 & also accord+ to ! nature ( ! dye to be employ$4 ,by suitably comb9+ sev]al mordants a consid]able range ( colors c be obta9$ ) a s+le dye4 ,! v>i\s *emicals us$ z mordants are ess5tially ! same no matt] = :i* class ( dyes !y are us$1 !re be+ only slight diff]5ces 9 ! conc5trations ( ! solutions1 ! mann] ( application ( ! mordants be+ practically ! same4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t ) ! exception ( *romium comp\nds1 :i* are ( comp>atively rec5t adoption z mordants1 all ! *emicals n[ us$ = mordants 7 employ$ by ! e>lie/ ma/]s ( ! art ( fur dye+4 ,:ile "s ( ! =mulas us$ by ^? dy]s display a lack ( appreciation ( ! true action & function ( ! mordant+ *emicals1 yet x is q rem>kable t !y *ose1 9 spite ( _! limit$ k ( *emical processes & ph5om5a1 j ^? mat]ials :i* d act z mordants if prop]ly appli$4 ,! mo/ important metallic comp\nds = mordant+ furs at ! pres5t "t are salts ( alum9um1 iron 7f]r\s71 copp]1 t9 & *romium 7z well z *romates & bi*romates74 ,! comp\nds ( ! metals ) organic acids su* z acetic acid are pref]able1 be+ m easily dissociat$1 & also leav+ 9 solution an acid :i* is less injuri\s to ! fur ?an a m9]al acid4 ,h[ev]1 sulphates & o!r salts ( ! metals are also us$ ext5sively1 inasmu* z !y are *eap] ?an ! organic salts4 ,,alum9um ,,mordants ,*ief among ! alum9um mordants are ! v>i\s k9ds ( alum1 :i* is a d\ble sulphate ( alum9um & an alkali su* z sodium1 potassium or ammonium4 ,all ^! salts except t ( sodium1 =m l>ge1 colorless1 octah$ral cry/als1 & are soluble 9 ab\t #aj p>ts ( cold wat]1 & #a_/d "p ( hot wat]4 ,sodium alum is ev5 m easily soluble1 b on acc\nt ( ! difficulty ( obta9+ x 9 cry/all9e =m1 x is little us$4 ,! common comm]cial alum is ! potassium alum9um sulphate4 ,rec5tly1 alum9um sulphate has to a l>ge ext5t replac$ alum = mordant+ purposes1 because x c be obta9$ v *eaply 9 pure =m1 & x conta9s a great] am\nt ( active alum9um comp\nd ?an does alum4 ,only ! iron-free salt1 h[ev]1 may be us$ = ! ne$s ( fur dye+4 ,alum9um acetate also f9ds ext5sive application z a mordant 9 fur dye+1 & :ile some:at m exp5sive ?an ! alum or alum9um sulphate1 x has ! advantage ov] ^! comp\nds ( be+ comb9$ ) an organic acid1 :i* is pref]able :5 ! action on ! hair & lea!r is consid]$4 ,alum9um acetate c be obta9$ 9 ! m>ket 9 ! =m ( a solution ( #aj degrees ,beaum1 b c also be prep>$ v easily z foll[s3 #ffe grams pure alum9um sulphate1 or #idh grams potassium alum1 are dissolv$ 9 #a lit] ( hot wat]4 #aacg grams ( lead acetate 7sug> ( lead7 are also dissolv$ 9 #a lit] ( hot wat]4 ,! two solutions are mix$1 & ?or\ghly /irr$4 ,a heavy :ite precipitate =ms1 :i* is filt]$ (f1 & disc>d$ aft] ! solution has cool$4 ,! alum9um acetate is conta9$ 9 ! filtrate1 & ! solution is br\ght to a d5sity ( #aj degrees ,beaum by ! addition ( wat]1 if necess>y1 & is pres]v$ = use 9 ?is =m4 ,,iron ,,mordants ,f]r\s sulphate1 iron vitriol1 or copp]as1 z x is commonly kn[n1 =ms pale gre5 cry/als1 :i* on exposure to air lose wat]1 & crumble d[n to a :ite p[d]4 ,x is v soluble 9 bo? cold & hot wat]1 b ! solutions oxidize v rapidly1 turn+ yell[i%1 & %\ld !re=e be us$ imm$iately4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 t a good quality ( iron vitriol be us$ = ! mordant1 o!rwise v unsatisfactory results w be obta9$4 ,f]r\s acetate is prep>$ 9 a mann] simil> to ! alum9um acetate1 & is occasionally employ$ in/ead ( ! f]r\s sulphate4 ,inasmu*1 h[ev]1 z ! solution ( f]r\s acetate is v easily oxidizable :5 expos$ to ! air1 a m /able =m is us$1 & ?is comes on ! m>ket z iron pyrolignite or iron liquor4 ,?is c be prep>$ by dissolv+ iron 9 crude acetic or pyroligne\s acid1 or by treat+ a solution ( iron sulphate ) calcium pyrolignite4 ,iron liquor is really a solution ( f]r\s acetate t conta9s c]ta9 organic impurities :i* prev5t1 or r1 consid]ably ret>d ! oxidation ( ! iron salt1 b :i* 9 no way int]f]e ) its mordant+ prop]ties4 ,! comm]cial product c be _h 9 v>i\s conc5trations1 b #aj degrees ,beaum is ! mo/ usual & mo/ conv5i5t4 ,,copp] ,,mordants ,! mo/ important copp] salts us$ 9 fur dye+ processes are copp] sulphate1 or blue vitriol1 occurr+ 9 l>ge blue cry/als1 v soluble 9 cold & 9 hot wat]2 & copp] acetate1 :i* is =m$ by treat+ a solution ( copp] sulphate ) a solution ( ! requisite quantity ( lead acetate4 ,copp] acetate c also be obta9$ 9 ! =m ( blue-gre5 cry/als1 v soluble 9 wat]1 ! solution becom+ turbid on prolong$ heat+1 due to ! =mation ( a gre5i% basic copp] acetate4 ,?is insoluble comp\nd is kn[n commonly z v]digris1 al?\gh x is n usually produc$ 9 ! mann] m5tion$4 ,num]\s fur dye+ =mulas conta9 v]digris1 b inasmu* z ! basic copp] acetate is insoluble & ?us incapable ( react+ ) any ( ! sub/ances us$ 9 dye+1 x is assum$ t ! soluble normal copp] acetate 0 meant1 = ?is comp\nd is also sometimes call$ v]digris4 ,9 addition1 !re mu/ be m5tion$ "h a comp\nd :i* =m]ly f\nd ext5sive use 9 fur dye+4 ,?is is a d\ble salt ( copp] & iron1 analog\s to alum1 f]r\s copp] sulphate1 kn[n z blue salt4 ,x is v seldom us$ at ! pres5t "t1 be+ m effectively replac$ by o!r sub/ances4 ,,*romium ,,mordants ,! typical *romium mordant is *rome alum1 :i* is a potassium or ammonium *romium sulphate1 con/itut$ j l ! alum9um alums1 & =m+ cry/als l ^!4 ,m frequ5tly us$1 nev]!less1 ?an ! *rome alum1 is *romium acetate1 :i* is prep>$ f x1 ei!r by treat+ a solution ( ! *rome alum ) a solution ( lead acetate1 or 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 #ej grams ( *rome alum are dissolv$ 9 #ejj cubic c5timet]s ( boil+ wat]4 ,to ?is is add$ #ae grams ( #bj ammonia1 dilut$ ) #ae grams ( wat]4 ,! precipitate :i* =ms is filt]$ (f1 & pres]v$1 ! filtrate be+ disc>d$4 ,aft] ?or\ghly wa%+ ! residue on ! filt] x is dissolv$ 9 dilute acetic acid1 heat+ if necess>y1 to effect solution4 ,o!r *romium comp\nds ( an entirely diff]5t type are also us$ 9 fur dye+1 ^! be+ *romates & bi*romates1 ! latt] f9d+ great] application ?an ! =m]4 ,sodium bi*romate is ! salt mo/ usually employ$4 ,?is =ms orange-r$ cry/als :i* are v soluble 9 wat]1 & 9 addition to its use z a mordant x also s]ves z an oxidiz+ ag5t = develop+ or fix+ c]ta9 dyes on furs4 ,,t9 ,,mordants ,comp\nds ( t9 f9d only limit$ application 9 fur-dye+1 ! only "o ( importance be+ t9 salts1 /ann\s *loride1 :i* occurs 9 ! =m ( :ite1 hygroscopic cry/als1 :i* mu/ be pres]v$ 9 clos$ vessels4 ,x is v soluble1 b 9 dilute solutions x readily =ms a basic salt1 s /ann\s *loride is usually us$ 9 v conc5trat$ solutions4 ,,alkal9e ,,mordants ,aft] ! furs h be5 treat$ ) ! solution ( "s alkali = ! purpose ( kill+ ! hair1 !y are always pass$ ?r\gh a slightly acidulat$ ba? to remove any alkali :i* may /ill be adh]+4 ,?is op]ation mu/ always be gone ?r\gh be=e ! sk9s c be mordant$ or dy$1 = if x 7 neglect$1 v unev5 & unc]ta9 results w\ld be obta9$4 ,?is process1 h[ev]1 entails ! exp5diture ( no small am\nt ( "t1 labor & *emicals :5 l>ge lots ( sk9s are be+ h&l$4 ,9 ord] to elim9ate ?is extra /ep ( 8s\r+0 betwe5 kill+ & mordant+ or dye+1 x has be5 propos$ to use alkal9e mordants :i* comb9e ! kill+ & mordant+ functions1 & accompli% ^! two processes at ! same "t4 ,! advantages ( employ+ su* mordants are easily app>5t4 ,cumb]some manipulation & h&l+ ( ! sk9s1 ) ! att5dant consumption ( mu* "t & labor are r$uc$ to a m9imum1 & besides !re is no ne$less wa/e ( *emicals z is ! case 9 ! ord9>y me?ods ( kill+ ! furs4 ,! pr9ciple ( alkal9e mordants is n a /rictly new "o4 ,if x be rememb]$ t ! old kill+ =mulas us$ by ! fur dy]s ( an e>li] age1 conta9$ metallic salts ) mordant+ prop]ties 9 addition to ! alkal9e sub/ances1 :i* alone 7 effective z kill+ ag5ts1 x w\ld seem t ! sugge/$ alkal9e mordants 7 m]ely a revival 9 modifi$ =m ( ! old processes4 ,?is is und\bt$ly true 9 a l>ge measure1 = ! kill+ mixtures :i* ! old ma/]s us$ c]ta9ly embodi$ ! fundam5tal pr9ciple ( simultane\s kill+ & mordant+1 al?\gh x 0 n recogniz$ at t "t4 ,mod]n alkal9e mordants h !re=e be5 devis$ :i* c be employ$ = kill+ & mordant+ furs at ! same "t4 ,!y are prep>$ z foll[s3 ,,alkal9e ,,alum9um ,,mordant #bej grams ( potassium alum are dissolv$ 9 #a lit] ( boil+ wat]4 ,to ?is solution is add$ #cjj grams ( soda a%1 previ\sly dissolv$ 9 #gej c4c4 ( wat]1 & ! result+ precipitate is filt]$ (f1 wa%$ & press$1 & !n dissolv$ 9 a solution ( #fe grams ( cau/ic soda 9 #a lit] ( wat]4 ,,alkal9e ,,*romium ,,mordant #bej c4c4 ( *rome acetate mordant ( #bj degrees ,beaum #cbj c4c4 ( cau/ic soda solution ( #ch degrees ,beaum 7#cb4e7 #aj c4c4 ( glyc]9e #cj degrees ,beaum 7#ie7 ,! solution ( ^! sub/ances is br\ght up to a volume ( #a lit] by ! addition ( #dbj c4c4 ( wat]4 ,,alkal9e ,,iron ,,mordant #ach grams f]r\s sulphate are dissolv$ 9 #cfb c4c4 ( w>m wat]4 ,cool & add #be c4c4 ( glyc]9e4 ,!n sl[ly & c>efully add #be4e c4c4 ( conc5trat$ ammonia1 tak+ c>e t no precipitate =ms4 ,:ile ^! alkal9e mordants seem to h mu* 9 _! favor1 !re are c]ta9 possible objectionable features :i* mu/ be consid]$4 ,! solutions ( ! mordants are g5]ally v alkal9e1 & n e fur c )/& m ?an a limit$ quantity ( alkal9e sub/ance = long] ?an a comp>atively %ort "t4 ,suitable mordant+ usually requires a long] "t ?an kill+ does1 s ) ! use ( ! alkal9e mordant1 if ! sk9s rema9 9 ! solution until suffici5tly kill$1 !y may be insuffici5tly mordant$1 :ile if ! furs are treat$ long en\gh to be prop]ly mordant$1 ! hair may h be5 ov]-kill$4 ,h[ev]1 ! idea ( ! alkal9e mordant is a good "o1 & x is only a matt] ( "t & pati5t1 sci5tific exp]im5tation :5 ! difficulties ( ! me?od w be elim9at$1 & a mu*-desir$ process w become a practical realization4 ,! g5]al me?ods = apply+ ! v>i\s mordants ( all sorts foll[ closely ! proc$ure adopt$ = ! kill+ =mulas1 & simil> precautions mu/ be obs]v$1 9 ord] to obta9 consi/5tly uni=m results4 ,) ! ex]cise ( c>e1 !re is little reason = ! mordant+ op]ations to g wrong4 ,aft] prop] treatm5t ( ! sk9s 9 ! mordants1 !y are remov$ & dra9$ (f1 !n r9s$ lightly 9 runn+ wat] to remove ! excess ( mordant liquor1 aft] :i* !y c be directly ent]$ into ! dye ba?4 ,if x is n feasible to dye ! mordant$ sk9s at once1 z is (t5 ! case1 ! sk9s are kept moi/1 & "u no circum/ances all[$ to dry4 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,fur ,,dye+ ,,m9]al ,,colors ,,us$ ,,on ,,furs ,be=e ! introduction ( ! fur dyes n[ us$1 c]ta9 inorganic *emical sub/ances 7 employ$ 9 addition to ! vegetable dyes1 = ! production ( colors on furs4 ,ev5 to ?is day su* mat]ials are us$ to obta9 c]ta9 effects 9 special in/ances4 ,! idea ( employ+ m9]al *emicals und\bt$ly orig9at$ 9 ! textile-dye+ indu/ry1 :i* at "o "t 0 dep5d5t to an appreciable ext5t on m9]al sub/ances = ! production ( c]ta9 fa/ %ades4 ,comp\nds ( iron1 lead1 manganese1 also ( copp]1 cobalt & nickel 7 all us$ = dye+1 ei!r s+ly or 9 v>i\s comb9ations4 ,9 ! application on furs1 ! bru% me?od 0 ! only "o practicable1 z ! sk9s w\ld h be5 ru9$ by dipp+ !m into solutions ( ^! *emicals 9 ! conc5trations necess>y = dye+4 ,! dye+ ( furs ) m9]al colors involves ! precipitation on ! fibre 9 a m or less p]man5t =m ( ! sulphide1 oxide or o!r insoluble comp\nd ( a metal1 & c be br\ght ab\t 9 sev]al ways4 ,by :at is kn[n z d\ble decomposition1 t is1 by ! use ( two solutions successively appli$1 ! +r$i5t ( "o caus+ a precipitate to =m :5 9 contact ) ! con/itu5t ( ! second1 ! color is produc$ on ! hair4 ,ano!r me?od is to use solutions ( *emicals :i* decompose on contact ) ! hair1 =m+ an insoluble comp\nd4 ,9 ! fir/ me?od ! hair is alt]nately treat$ ) ! two solutions ( ! requisite *emicals1 dry+ betwe5 ea* bru%+1 ! process be+ repeat$ until ! desir$ %ade is obta9$4 ,! second me?od m]ely requires ! solution ( ! *emical to be appli$ to ! hair1 :i* is !n dri$1 ! color =m+ by itself4 ,"o ( ! mo/ important ( ! m9]al dyes1 & :i* is occasionally us$ to ?is day1 is lead sulphide1 =m$ by ! d\ble decomposition me?od by precipitat+ a soluble lead salt ) ammonium sulphide1 or any o!r alkal9e sulphide4 ,by simply bru%+ an aque\s solution ( lead acetate1 also kn[n z sug> ( lead1 on a :ite fur su* z :ite h>e or rabbit1 a light1 br[ni% coloration is obta9$ due to ! comb9ation ( ! lead ) ! sulphur ( ! hair4 ,if ! lead solution is c>efully appli$ sev]al times on ?is type ( fur1 until a suffici5tly d>k color is produc$1 x is possible to get a fairly good imitation ( ! /one m>t54 ,! br[n color is v fa/1 be+ actually =m$ )9 ! hair4 ,9 mo/ cases1 h[ev]1 = dye+ lead sulphide %ades x is necess>y to use ! two solutions4 ,?us ! pale greyi% or slightly br[ni%-grey %ades ( ! lynx c be reproduc$ on :ite rabbit or h>e by ?is process4 ,a solution conta9+ #fj grams ( lead acetate p] lit] ( wat] is bru%$ on to ! hair ( ! fur :i* has previ\sly be5 kill$ 9 ! usual mann]1 & ! hair is !n dri$4 ,a solution ( #ej grams ( ammonium sulphide p] lit] ( wat] is next bru%$ on1 & ! fur aga9 dri$4 ,c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ 9 h&l+ ! ammonium sulphide z x is a v malodor\s liquid1 ! fumes ( :i* are poison\s :5 inhal$4 ,! alt]nate bru%+s are repeat$ until ! desir$ dep? ( %ade is obta9$4 ,a v d>k br[n1 approa*+ a black c be obta9$ 9 ?is way4 ,?is color c be us$ = ! production ( c]ta9 attractive effects4 ,by bru%+ ov] ! tips ( ! hair1 :i* has previ\sly be5 dy$ a d>k br[n by means ( ! lead sulphide color1 ) a dilute solution ( hydro*loric acid1 or ) p]oxide ( hydrog51 ! hair w become :ite 9 ! p>ts s treat$1 due to ! =mation ( lead *loride or lead sulphate1 respectively4 ,?us :ite tipp$ furs c be obta9$1 b ! process is applicable only :5 ! furs h be5 dy$ by ! lead sulphide me?od4 ,potassium p]manganate is occasionally us$ to produce dye+s ( a br[n %ade on furs4 ,consid]able c>e has to be tak5 9 apply+ ?is sub/ance1 z x is possible to affect ! hair4 ,! /r5g? ( ! solution mu/ be v>i$ accord+ z ! hair to be dy$ is weak or /rong4 ,a cold solution ( #aj to #bj grams ( potassium p]manganate p] lit] ( wat] is bru%$ on to ! hair1 :i* is !n dri$4 ,a br[n precipitate ( manganese is =m$ on ! hair aft] a %ort "t1 & ! process is repeat$ until ! requir$ %ade is obta9$4 ,= furs ) h>d] hair1 /rong] solutions c be us$4 ,! dye+ is v fa/1 b x is seldom us$1 *eap] & bett] %ades be+ obta9$ 9 o!r ways4 ,spott$ :ite effects c be produc$ on ! br[n dye+ ) p]manganate ( pota% by apply+ a solution ( sodium bisulphite1 ! br[n color be+ dissolv$ by ?is *emical4 ,! comp\nds ( o!r metals1 su* z iron1 copp]1 cobalt & nickel are n us$ 9 practise z ! dye+s are n fa/1 & c be bett] produc$ 9 o!r ways4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,fur ,,dye+ ,,vegetable ,,dyes ,) ! exception ( ! few %ades :i* c\ld be produc$ solely by means ( color+ matt]s ( a *emical "*1 all dye+s on furs up to ab\t ?irty ye>s ago 7 made ) dye sub/ances obta9$ f ! vegetable k+dom1 ei!r alone1 or 9 conjunction ) ! a=em5tion$ m9]al colors4 ,! colors ( vegetable orig9 us$ 9 comp>atively rec5t times 7 ma9ly extracts ( ! wood ( c]ta9 trees2 s ! "n 8wood dyes0 has come to be appli$ g5]ally to ! dyes ( ?is class4 ,! use ( ! vegetable or natural dyes on furs dates back to q anci5t times1 z frequ5t allusions & descriptions 9 ,biblical & o!r contemporane\s lit]ature te/ify4 ,!re are num]\s pictures on monum5ts & tablets illu/rat+ ! dye+ ( furs among ! anci5t ,egyptians1 ! evid5ce indicat+ t ! juice ( c]ta9 b]ries1 & extracts ( c]ta9 leaves 7 us$ = ! purpose4 ,at a lat] p]iod1 9 ! ,roman era1 h5na1 :i* 0 us$ ov] two ?\s& ye>s ago z to-day = ! beautification ( ! hair ( wom51 0 also us$ to color fur sk9s4 ,! in/ances cit$ "h are m]ely ( sci5tific & hi/orical int]e/1 & are n ( practical importance z f> z fur dye+ me?ods are conc]n$4 ,x 0 n until _m c5turies lat] t ! dye+ ( furs took on ! aspects ( a comm]cial art1 & ! sub/ances !n employ$ 7 *iefly tann9-conta9+ mat]ials su* z gall-nuts & suma*1 :i* 9 conjunction ) c]ta9 metallic salts1 p>ticul>ly ^? ( iron1 7 capable ( produc+ d>k %ades4 ,! use ( iron comp\nds to =m d>k grey or black colors on lea!r tann$ by means ( ! tann9s1 _h be5 common = a long "t1 & x 0 natural t fur dy]s %\ld try to produce su* %ades on furs 9 a simil> fa%ion4 ,! use ( ! iron-tann9 comp\nd z a dye prov$ to be v effective1 & to ?is day ! production ( blacks by means ( ! vegetable color+ matt]s has z a basis an iron-tannate4 ,a =mula 9 common use 9 ! latt] sev5te5? & ! eighte5? c5turies = produc+ black %ades on furs1 is ! foll[+3 ,lime wat] #aaag p>ts ,gall-nuts #aejj ,li?>ge #ejj ,salammoniac #fe ,alum #abh ,v]digris #fd ,antimony #fd ,m9ium #cb ,iron fil+s #abh ,gre5 copp]as #chd ,all ^! sub/ances except ! gall-nuts1 ! copp]as & half ! lime wat] 7 boil$ up 9 a cauldron2 !n ! gall-nuts & ! copp]as 7 plac$ 9 a bucket & ! cont5ts ( ! cauldron p\r$ 91 & ! re/ ( ! lime wat] add$4 ,! mixture 0 /irr$ up1 all[$ to settle = an h\r1 & :5 cool1 0 ready to be appli$ by ! bru% me?od4 ,= dye+ by ! dip process1 a simil> mixture 0 us$1 only consid]ably dilut$ ) wat]4 ,a /udy ( ! =mula discloses ! fact t 9 x are comb9$ kill+ & mordant+ sub/ances z well z dye+ mat]ials4 ,! lime wat]1 9 conjunction ) ! salammoniac s]ves z a kill+ ag5t1 ! v]digris1 copp]as & alum are mordants1 :ile ! li?>ge & ! m9ium1 bo? comp\nds ( lead1 c\ld possibly act z m9]al dyes1 & ! iron fil+s & ! antimony took virtually no "p at all 9 ! dye+1 except1 p]haps to act 9 a me*anical way4 ,! =mulas = o!r %ades 7 made up along simil> l9es1 ! *ief con/itu5t ( vegetable nature be+ ei!r gall-nuts1 suma*1 or bo?4 ,a mixture = a *e/nut br[n1 = example1 conta9$ gall-nuts1 suma*1 & ! v>i\s o!r m9]al con/itu5ts z 9 ! black dye1 li?>ge1 alum1 copp]as1 v]digris1 salammoniac1 antimony1 & 9 addition1 r$ lead & :ite lead4 ,x is evid5t 9 bo? ^! in/ances t ! %ade obta9$ 0 z mu* ! result ( m9]al dye+ z ( vegetable dye+4 ,! discov]y ( ,am]ica introduc$ into ,europe _m new dye sub/ances1 *iefly wood extracts su* z logwood & ,brazilwood1 b x 0 n until ! n9ete5? c5tury t ^! mat]ials f\nd _! way into ! dye =mulas ( ! fur dy]4 ,mo/ ( ! processes us$ 9 ! dye+ ( furs 7 adaptations ( me?ods employ$ 9 silk dye+1 ! silk fibre be+ consid]$ z mo/ ne>ly approa*+ fur-hair 9 nature & *>act]i/ics4 ,by devi\s & circuit\s pa?s ! =mulas ( ! silk dy]s rea*$ ! fur p1 & s1 9 ! middle ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 dye mixtures conta9+ ! v>i\s dyewoods z well z ! tann9-conta9+ sub/ances 7 9 g5]al use = ! dye+ ( furs4 ,! foll[+ is a typical recipe ( t "t = ! production ( black on furs l wolf1 skunk1 raccoon1 etc43 ,roa/$ gall-nuts #ajjj p>ts ,suma* #bjj ,iron mordant #bjj ,copp] vitriol #ajj ,li?>ge #hj ,alum #fj ,salammoniac #ej ,cry/alliz$ v]digris #dj ,fr5* logwood extract #cj ,ra9 wat] #gjjj ,! mixture 0 boil$ up1 & aft] cool+ 0 ready = application by ! bru% me?od1 ! sk9s be+ fir/ kill$ by a kill+ mixture also appli$ by ! bru%4 ,! dye sub/ances 9 ?is case are ! gall-nuts1 suma* & ! logwood extract1 ) ! iron mordant1 copp] vitriol1 & alum z mordants4 ,= br[n %ades a simil> =mula 0 us$ conta9+ ,p]nambuco wood extract1 logwood extract1 qu]citron b>k1 gall-nuts & dragonblood1 toge!r ) iron1 copp] & alum mordants4 ,=mulas su* z ! above 7 ma9ly empirical1 t is1 !y 7 comp\nd$ z a result ( trial ( v>i\s comb9ations ( ! con/itu5ts1 )\t consid]+ ! nature & quantitative "* ( ! reactions1 z long z ! desir$ %ades c\ld be obta9$4 ,su* dye mixtures 7 frequ5tly f\nd to yield results v>y+ f ^? expect$ or orig9ally obta9$1 because ! effectiv5ess ( ! =mulas dep5d$ ^u ! exact duplication 9 e detail1 ( conditions :i* _h giv5 satisfactory results previ\sly1 & x 0 n always possible to atta9 su* an accurate reproduction ( circum/ances1 especially :5 ! fur dy]s 7 q ignorant ( ! sci5tific relation%ips ( ! mat]ials us$4 ,s :5 m light _h be5 %$ on ! nature & *emical *>act]i/ics ( ! vegetable dye sub/ances1 =mulas l ^? describ$ 7 no long] employ$1 al?\gh ! ess5tial +r$i5ts 7 ! same 9 ! new processes4 ,unnecess>y con/itu5ts 7 elim9at$1 & prop] ones sub/itut$ :]e x 0 requir$1 & ! quantities ( ! mat]ials us$ 7 made to con=m to ! *emical laws gov]n+ ! reactions4 ,s9ce ^! new =mulas 7 bas$ on a rational und]/&+ ( ! con/itu5ts & _! reactions1 x is desirable to /udy ! latt] briefly1 be=e fur!r discuss+ ! =mulas !mselves4 ,! sub/ances ( vegetable orig9 us$ 9 mod]n fur dye+ may be gr\p$ into two classes1 "o1 ! tann9-conta9+ mat]ials1 & ! o!r1 ! dyewoods prop]4 ,! mo/ important ( ! tann9s are gall-nuts1 suma* & *e/nut extract4 ,cut*1 :i* also comes "u ?is class1 is m frequ5tly us$ = ! production ( br[n %ades1 s x is gr\p$ ) ! dyewoods4 ,among ! latt] are logwood1 fu/ic1 ,brazilwood1 qu]citron1 turm]ic1 & sev]al o!rs ( less significance4 #a4 ,tann9 ,mat]ials ,fir/ & =emo/ "u ?is head+ are ! nutgalls4 ,^! are ball-%ap$ excresc5ces produc$ on c]ta9 plants by ! punctures ( insects 9 deposit+ _! eggs4 ,!re are two *ief v>ieties1 ! ,european1 & ! ,*9ese4 ,! ,european galls are =m$ by ! female gall-wasp :i* drops an egg 9 ! r9d ( "y bran*es ( c]ta9 oaks4 ,a swell+ 7! nutgall7 is produc$1 9 :i* ! "y insect develops1 & f :i* x f9ally escapes by pi]c+ a hole ?r\gh ! %ell4 ,^? galls :i* are n pi]c$ h a fre% blui% or gre5 color1 are heavy & conta9 mo/ tannic acid4 ,aft] ! insect has gone out1 ! galls are ( a light]1 yell[i% color1 & also ( inf]ior quality4 ,! be/ oak-galls are ! ,aleppo1 & ! ,turki% or ,levant galls1 conta9+ #ee-fj ( tannic acid1 & ab\t #d ( gallic acid4 ,! ,*9ese galls are produc$ by ! puncture ( a plant-l\se on ! leaves & leaf-/alks ( a species ( suma*1 & n on oaks4 ,! galls are v light1 & v ri* 9 tannic acid1 conta9+ (t5 z mu* z #hj4 ,= dye+ purposes1 nutgalls are usually gr\nd to a p[d]1 & 9 "s in/ances !y are ev5 roa/$ fir/ & !n gr\nd4 ,suma* consi/s ( ! leaves & sometimes ( ! small twigs & /ems ( a species ( suma* plant kn[n z ! ,rhus cori>ia4 ,! ,sicilian v>iety is ! f9e/ comm]cial quality1 ) ! ,virg9ian rank+ next4 ,x is sold z a p[d]1 b also 9 ! =m ( ! :ole or cru%$ leaves4 ,! be/ suma* conta9s #ae-be ( tann94 ,extracts are also manufactur$1 a liquid extract ( #eb degrees ,twaddell1 :i* =ms a d>k br[n1 ?ick pa/e2 & a solid extract1 =m$ by evaporat+ ! liquid extract to dryness4 ,*e/nut extract is prep>$ f ! wood ( ! *e/nut oak1 :i* conta9s #h-aj ( tann94 ,! solid extract has a bright1 black color1 :ile ! liquid extract is a d>k br[n pa/e ) a smell l t ( burnt sug>4 ,! tann9s all give greyi% to black %ades ) iron salts1 & x is ?is fact :i* r5d]s !m important = fur dye+4 #b4 ,wood dyes ,"o ( ! mo/ important ( all ! natural dye sub/ances1 especially = ! production ( blacks1 is logwood4 ,! color is really a r$1 b ) ! common mordants x =ms blue1 violet or black %ades4 ,logwood1 or campea*y wood1 z x is sometimes call$1 is ! product ( a l>ge tree gr[+ 9 ! ,we/ ,indies1 & ,c5tral & ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,:5 fre%ly cut1 ! wood is practically )\t color1 b :5 expos$ to ! air x soon becomes a d>k r$di%-br[n on ! surface4 ,! color+ pr9ciple ( logwood is call$ hematoxyl91 :i* is a colorless sub/ance :5 pure1 & is ( itself incapable ( dye+2 b :5 x is expos$ to ! air1 especially :5 moi/ & 9 ! pres5ce ( "s alkal9e sub/ance1 x is conv]t$ into hemate91 :i* is ! real color+ matt] ( logwood4 ,to prep>e ! wood = use1 ! logs are *ipp$ or rasp$1 ! *ips be+ heap$ up & moi/5$ ) wat]4 ,f]m5tation occurs1 & ! heaps are frequ5tly turn$ to all[ free access ( air to ! wood1 & to prev5t ov]heat+4 ,z a result ( ?is process1 a great "p ( ! hematoxyl9 is conv]t$ to ! hemate94 ,! logwood may be us$ = dye+ 9 ?is /ate z *ips1 b logwood extracts c n[ be obta9$ ( a high degree ( purity & are easi] to "w )4 ,! comm]cial =ms ( ! extract1 are ! liquid ( #ea degrees ,twaddell1 & ! solid extract4 ,hemate9 cry/als c also be obta9$4 ,all ^! extracts conta9 ma9ly hemate91 toge!r ) a small p]c5tage ( hematoxyl9 :i* is conv]t$ to ! =m] dur+ ! dye+ process4 ,logwood is nev] us$ z a direct dye1 b is us$ to =m color lakes ) ! v>i\s mordants1 ! foll[+ colors be+ produc$3 ,iron mordants give grey to black %ades ,copp] mordants give gre5-blue to black %ades ,*rome mordants give blue to black %ades ,alum9um mordants give violet %ades ,t9 mordants give purple %ades ,by comb9+ sev]al ( ! mordants1 any desir$ %ade ( black c be obta9$1 & if o!r dyewoods are us$ 9 conjunction ) ! logwood1 ! range c be fur!r increas$4 ,fu/ic1 yell[-wood1 or ,cuba wood1 z x is v>i\sly call$1 is obta9$ f a tree also gr[+ 9 ! ,we/ ,indies1 ,c5tral & ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,x is us$ ei!r z wood *ips1 or z a pa/e extract ( #ea degrees ,twaddell1 & occasionally z solid extract4 ,fu/ic conta9s two color+ matt]s1 mor9tannic acid1 possess+ ! *>act]i/ics ( a tann91 & :i* is q soluble 9 wat]1 & mor91 :i* is r insoluble1 & :i* settles out f ! liquid extract4 ,fu/ic is ! mo/ important ( ! yell[ dyes ( natural orig91 & is us$ consid]ably 9 fur dye+ ) logwood = %ad+ ! blacks1 or = produc+ comp\nd %ades4 ,) ! usual mordants fu/ic gives ! foll[+ colors3 ,) iron salts d>k olive ,) copp] salts olive ,) *rome salts olive-yell[ to br[ni%-yell[ ,) alum9um salts yell[ ,) t9 salts bright yell[ to orange-yell[ ,brazilwood1 or r$wood1 is ! product ( a tree f\nd 9 ,brazil1 & exi/s 9 sev]al v>ieties1 su* z pea* wood1 ,sapan wood1 ,lima wood1 & ,p]nambuco wood4 ,!y all yield simil> %ades ) ! v>i\s mordants1 & all seem to conta9 ! same color+ pr9ciple1 brasil91 :i*1 l ! hematoxyl91 has no dye+ p[]1 b by f]m5tation & oxidation x is conv]t$ to brasile91 correspond+ to ! =mation ( hemate94 ,brazilwood & ! relat$ woods are us$ ei!r z *ips or extract1 b seldom alone1 usually 9 conjunction ) o!r dyewoods4 ,by comb9+ logwood1 fu/ic & ,brazilwood 9 v>i\s proportions1 & by employ+ suitable mordants1 all ! %ades requir$ by ! fur dy] c easily be produc$4 ,qu]citron is ! inn] b>k ( a species ( oak 7,qu]cus t9ctoria7 f\nd 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,x conta9s two color+ pr9ciples1 qu]cetr9 & qu]cet94 ,! fre% decoction ( qu]citron b>k is a transp>5t dull orange-r$ :i* soon becomes turbid & deposits a yell[ cry/all9e mass4 ,x is g5]ally us$ 9 conjunction ) o!r dyes4 ,cut* is ! dri$ extract obta9$ f a species ( acacia1 ! pr9cipal v>ieties be+ ,bombay1 ,b5gal1 & ,gambi] cut*4 ,x conta9s two color+ pr9ciples1 cate*9 & cate*u-tannic acid4 ,cut* acts z a tann91 & l o!r tann9s discuss$ above1 c be us$ = ! production ( grey or black %ades ) iron mordants4 ,x is employ$ *iefly1 h[ev]1 = dye+ br[ns4 ,alum9um salts give ) cut* a yell[i%-br[n1 t9 salts give a light] yell[1 copp]as gives a br[ni%-grey1 & *rome & copp] salts give br[n %ades4 ,turm]ic is ! und]gr\nd /em ( ! ,curcuma t9ctoria1 ! color+ pr9ciple be+ call$ curcum94 ,x may be us$ z a direct dye1 b usually a mordant is us$4 ,turm]ic is sometimes us$ 9 place ( fu/ic4 ,:ile ! tann9s c be us$ alone ) an iron mordant = produc+ greyi% to black %ades1 ! dyewoods alone yield colors :i* w\ld be too bright to be suitable = dye+ furs4 ,9 ord] to tone d[n ?is brightness1 & to give to ! dye+s t greyi% und]tone :i* is *>act]i/ic ( ! natural furs1 & :i* c only be imitat$ by means ( ! iron-tann9 comp\nd1 x is cu/om>y to comb9e ! tann9s ) ! wood dyes4 ,! iron-tannate con/itutes ! f\ndation ( ! color :i* gets its int5sity1 & necess>y brilliancy & bloom f ! wood dyes4 ,moreov]1 ! pres5ce ( ! iron-tann9 comp\nd helps consid]ably to increase ! fa/ness ( ! dye+4 ,furs dy$ ) ! comb9ation ( ! tann9s & ! wood dyes obta9 an additional tann+ treatm5t :i* mat]ially improves ! quality ( ! lea!r1 = n only d ! tann9 sub/ances ex]t ?is tann+ action1 b ! dyewoods z well1 = !y are !mselves ei!r ( ! nature ( tann9s1 or conta9 a color+ pr9ciple :i* is a tann94 ,x is to ! comb9$ effects ( ! tann9 sub/ances & ! dyewoods t furs dy$ ) vegetable dyes owe _! beauty ( color1 lu/re1 naturalness ( %ade1 p]man5ce ( ! dye+1 & durability ( ! lea!r4 ,wood dye+s on furs h = ?is reason acquir$ a j r5[n1 b ow+ to ! introduction ( ! new k9ds ( fur dyes1 ! use ( ! vegetable dye sub/ances has be5 greatly r$uc$4 ,! dyes ( vegetable orig9 c be appli$ to furs by ei!r ! bru% me?od or ! dip me?od1 or bo?1 & s9ce mordants are requir$ ) ! dyes ( ?is class1 !y are appli$ 9 "o ( ! ?ree ways m5tion$ 9 a previ\s *apt]3 fir/1 by mordant+ be=e dye+2 second1 by apply+ mordant & dye simultane\sly2 & ?ird1 by mordant+ aft] ! sk9s h be5 treat$ ) ! dye4 ,i4 ,,dye+ ,,) ,,vegetable ,,dyes ,,by ,,! ,,bru% ,,me?od ,! use ( ! bru% me?od 9 apply+ ! natural dyes to furs is limit$ to a comp>atively few k9ds ( dye+1 namely to produce special effects on furs1 or to give to ! upp]-hair ( furs a coat ( dye diff]5t f ! base color4 ,9 a q rec5t ,g]man pat5t is describ$ a process = bl5d+ a r$ fox z a silv] fox & ! proc$ure af=ds a good example ( bru% dye+ ) prelim9>y mordant+4 ,! specification is z foll[s3 8,d4 ,r4 ,p4 #caj1 #dbe 7#aiah74 ,a process = dye+ r$ fox z silv] fox4 ,! tann$ & dress$ sk9 is fir/ sup]ficially decoloriz$ by apply+ a dilute mixture ( milk ( lime1 iron vitriol & alum1 ) a s(t bru% s z only to p5etrate ! top-hair4 ,all[ to rema9 = #d-f h\rs1 dry1 & beat out ! du/4 ,a dilute solution ( iron vitriol is bru%$ on s z only to wet ! top-hair1 & ! sk9 is ?us all[$ to rema9 moi/ = #ab-bd h\rs4 ,!n )\t dry+1 a solution ( iron vitriol1 salammoniac1 li?>ge1 r$ argol & wood a%es is bru%$ on cold ) a h>d bru% s z to p5etrate all ! hair d[n to v ne> ! sk94 ,! sk9 has n[ completely lo/ its r$ color1 & has become a pale yell[4 ,x is n[ ready to be dy$4 ,an infusion ( roa/$ nutgalls1 :i* h be5 boil$ = #c-d h\rs ) wat]1 is appli$ cold ) a s(t bru% to ! upp] hair4 ,all[ to rema9 s = #b-c h\rs1 & )\t dry+1 apply a weak] solution ( ! roa/$ nutgalls ) a h>d bru% s z to saturate ! hair ?or\ghly4 ,dry & beat out4 ,accord+ to ! conc5tration ( ! solution appli$1 ! hair w be color$ blue-grey to black1 & ! %ade c be v>i$ by v>y+ ! /r5g? ( ! solutions us$4 ,! diff]5t p>ts ( ! sk91 or ^? p>ts ( diff]5t %ades c be dy$ accord+ly40 ,9 ?is pat5t all ! op]ations1 includ+ kill+1 mordant+ & dye+ are done by ! bru% me?od1 & ! process1 f ?is po9t ( view is q simil> to "o :i* might h be5 employ$ a c5tury previ\s4 ,x is evid5t t ! "t & ef=t requir$ to c>ry out ! details z describ$ 9 ! pat5t w\ld only be w>rant$ 9 exceptional cases1 :]e ! value ( ! dy$ fur w\ld be consid]ably great] ?an t ( ! natural sk94 ,an example ( ! application at ! same "t ( dye & mordant by ! bru% me?od is ! orig9al ,fr5* ,seal dye1 :i* is /ill employ$ to a limit$ ext5t to produce a brilliant1 deep1 lu/r\s black topp+ on furs :i* h already be5 dy$ by ! dip process4 ,a typical =mula = ! old ,fr5* ,seal dye is ! foll[+3 ,gre5 copp]as #aj p>ts ,alum #aj ,v]digris #aj ,gall-nuts #hj ,logwood extract 7#ae degrees ,twaddell7 #aej ,wat] #ajjj ,?is mixture is appli$ to ! top ( ! hair ( ! furs1 aft] previ\s kill+1 & ! sk9s all[$ to rema9 moi/ = sev]al h\rs1 & also expos$ to ! air4 ,! sk9s are !n dri$1 & beat5 out1 & if necess>y a second coat ( dye is bru%$ on4 ,9 dye+ seal-imitation on muskrat1 or skunk-imitation on opossum1 = example1 ! black color requir$ on ! top-hair1 or ! upp] "p ( ! hair :5 ! furs are %e>$1 c be produc$ by apply+ a mixture simil> to ! above1 to ! furs aft] !y h receiv$ _! base color by ! dip process ) natural dyes or ) ! ,oxidation ,colors4 ,occasionally1 ! dye+ is giv5 an aft]-treatm5t ) a dilute solution ( sodium bi*romate to help develop ! color1 ! action 9 ?is case be+ t ( an oxidiz+ ag5t1 & n ( a mordant4 ,z f> z ! ?ird me?od ( mordant+ is conc]n$1 t ( fir/ apply+ ! dye1 & !n ! mordant1 x is r>ely practis$ ) ! bru% me?od4 ,! proc$ure1 h[ev]1 consi/s 9 fir/ bru%+ on a solution ( ! desir$ dye1 !n dry+ & bru%+ on a mordant solution4 ,^! op]ations are repeat$ p]haps two or ?ree times until ! prop] %ade is obta9$1 expos+ ! furs to ! air = ! color to be develop$4 ,,ii4 ,,dye+ ,,) ,,vegetable ,,dyes ,,by ,,! ,,dip ,,me?od ,x 0 9 ! application to furs by ! dip process t ! use ( ! vegetable dyes atta9$ great importance1 & al?\gh at ! pres5t "t1 natural organic dyes h l>gely be5 sup]s$$ by ! ,oxidation ,colors & ,anil9e ,black dyes1 yet = c]ta9 purposes1 & especially = ! production ( blacks1 ! wood dyes /ill are able to hold _! own4 ,! dye+ ( black =m]ly con/itut$ probably ! mo/ important bran* ( ! fur dye+ indu/ry1 & 0 und\bt$ly ! mo/ difficult "o4 ,= x is possible to obta9 z _m diff]5t k9ds ( black z !re are dy]s ( ?is color1 b only a few c]ta9 %ades are desirable4 ,! division ( ! classes ( furs into ^? d]iv$ f ! v>i\s k9ds ( %eep1 & ^? obta9$ f o!r animals is p>ticul>ly m>k$ 9 ! dye+ ( black1 & bo? ! composition ( ! dye =mulas & ! me?ods ( dye+ are some:at diff]5t = ! two gr\ps4 ,= ! dye+ ( black on ,p]sian lambs1 broadtails1 c>aculs1 etc41 a comb9ation ( logwood & nutgalls ) ! requisite mordants is us$1 :ile on h>es1 ,*9ese %eep1 foxes1 raccoons1 opossum1 etc41 a mixture ( logwood & turm]ic or fu/ic1 ) ! prop] mordants is us$4 ,! g5]al proc$ure is z foll[s3 ,! dye sub/ances to be us$ are gr\nd up to a p[d] 9 a mill con/ruct$ = ! purpose1 aft] :i* !y are boil$ ) wat] 9 a copp]-l9$ kettle or cauldron1 heat$ f ! outside by /eam4 ,! cu/om>y arrangem5t is to h a jacket$ kettle1 support$ on a /&1 & hav+ taps & valves to enable ! liquor to be drawn (f1 or pivot$1 s t ! kettle c be tilt$1 & ! cont5ts p\r$ out4 ,! use ( ! copp]-l9$ vessel is to be pref]r$1 z x is unaffect$ by any ( ! dye sub/ances1 & s _c cause any ru/ /a9s4 ,aft] ! dyes h gone into solution & h cool$1 ! mordant *emicals1 previ\sly dissolv$ 9 wat]1 are add$1 & ! mixture /irr$ up4 ,! dye+ 9 ?is in/ance is effect$ by ! simultane\s application ( dye & mordant4 ,! dye mixture is n[ run (f1 or p\r$ out 9 ! prop] quantity into a numb] ( small vats ( #be-cj gallon capacity1 or into a paddle vat1 :i* c be clos$1 :ile ! paddle is rotat+4 ,! latt] device is to be pref]r$ because x p]mits ! dye to reta9 its temp]ature bett] & = a long] p]iod ( "t1 b :5 lambs are be+ dy$ only ! op5 vats are us$4 ,! temp]ature ( ! dye mixture is betwe5 #dj & #de ,c41 = only at ?is temp]ature c ! hair absorb ! dye prop]ly )\t injur+ ! lea!r4 ,! kill$ sk9s are imm]s$ 9 ! dyeba? = a "t1 usually ov]night1 aft] :i* !y are remov$1 dra9$ & hung up1 ) ! hair-side expos$ to ! air1 s z to p]mit ! dye to develop1 :i* takes place ) ! aid ( ! atmosph]ic oxyg54 ,! dyeba? is aga9 br\ght to ! prop] temp]ature1 & ! sk9s are aga9 ent]$1 to g ?r\gh ! same process z (t5 z is necess>y to obta9 ! desir$ dep? ( %ade4 ,! dy$ sk9s are ?or\ghly wa%$ to remove excess dye1 !n dri$ & f9i%$4 ,! foll[+ are a few dye =mulas us$ 9 ! production ( blacks3 ,logwood extract #ajj grams ,*e/nut extract #ad c4c4 ,turm]ic #ch grams ,iron acetate #f ,b4 #ej c4c4 ,wat] #abjj c4c4 or1 ,cut* #ae grams ,soda #ad grams ,logwood extract #abj grams ,v]digris #ai grams ,iron acetate #e ,b4 #af c4c4 ,wat] #abjj c4c4 ,a rec5tly publi%$ =mula = dye+ ,*9a goat sk9s black1 is ! foll[+3 ,dissolve #ej lbs4 ( d>k turm]ic & #de lbs4 ( logwood extract & make up to #cjj gallons ( solution1 at #ie ,f4 ,ent] ! kill$ sk9s & leave !m 9 ! liquor until !y rise to ! surface4 ,!n take !m out & add #be lbs4 ( logwood extract1 #aj lbs4 ( suma*1 #aj lbs4 ( blue vitriol1 #e lbs4 ( fu/ic extract1 & ab\t #fj lbs4 ( iron acetate liquor4 ,/ir up well1 & imm]se ! sk9s = #ah h\rs4 ,draw !m up1 & expose to ! air = #ab h\rs4 ,heat ! liquor aga9 to #ie ,f4 & put ! sk9s back = #ab h\rs4 ,draw out1 hang up 9 ! air = a "t1 !n wa% ?or\ghly1 hydro-extract1 dry & f9i%4 ,9 a ,g]man pat5t1 ,d4 ,r4 ,p4 #ajg1gag 7#ahih71 is describ$ a me?od = dye+ lambs black1 consi/+ 9 treat+ ! sk9s = #bd h\rs 9 a logwood ba?1 !n r9s+ 9 cold wat]1 & mordant+ = #ae h\rs 9 a solution ( bi*romate ( pota%4 ,! sk9s are !n wa%$ & treat$ ) a solution ( iron salt1 !n dri$4 ,?is process1 :ile ( n mu* practical importance1 is an illu/ration ( mordant+ subsequ5t to ! dye+ treatm5t4 ,z f> z ! production ( o!r %ades is conc]n$1 ! proc$ure is q simil> to ! regul> black me?od4 ,= a d>k br[n1 = example1 ! sk9s are dy$ 9 a mixture conta9+ ,gall-nuts #dj p>ts ,v]digris #aj ,alum #aj ,copp]as #e ,brazilwood extract 7#ae ,twaddell7 #aej ,wat] #ajjj employ+ op]ations j z 9 ! case ( ! black4 ,greyi%-blue %ades on :ite h>es1 lambs1 kids1 etc41 c be obta9$ by treat+ ! sk9s successively 9 ! foll[+ ba?s3 #a4 ,logwood extract #ajj grams ,wat] #a lit] #b4 ,indigot9e #aj grams ,alum #aj grams ,wat] #a lit] ,blui%-grey tones on ! same furs c be produc$ by treat+ ) #a4 ,logwood extract #bjj grams ,indigot9e #ae grams ,wat] #a lit] #b4 ,alum #aej grams ,salammoniac #ab grams ,wat] #a lit] ,simil> grey %ades c be produc$ by mordant+ ! sk9s ) an iron salt1 & !n dye+ 9 a weak ba? conta9+ gall-nuts1 suma* & iron vitriol4 ,?is me?od is v effective = mak+ ,alaska or silv] fox imitations4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,fur ,,dye+ ,,anil9e ,,black ,fur seal = a long "t has be5 a fur ( di/9ction & importance 9 ! fur indu/ry1 & consequ5tly ! dye+ ( seal has con/itut$ an important1 ?\gh n v ext5sive bran* ( ! art ( fur dye+4 ,9 q rec5t times ! popul>ity ( seal has become s great t imitations h _h to be produc$ to help supply ! dem&1 & z a result1 ,fr5* seal1 or seal-dy$ rabbit1 & ! s-call$ ,hudson seal1 :i* is seal-dy$ muskrat1 h acquir$ a great vogue4 ,occasionally opossum1 nutria & o!r furs are also us$ = ! purpose ( produc+ seal imitations4 ,:ile ! supply ( real seals is relatively small1 & ! dem& l>ge1 ! production ( seal imitations has assum$ l>ge proportions1 & z a result1 ! dye+ ( seal & its imitations or sub/itutes has come to be a great bran* ( ! fur dye+ indu/ry4 ,dur+ ! pa/ ?irty ye>s1 ! long & t$i\s processes ( dye+ seal & seal imitations1 involv+ ! use ( dyes ( vegetable orig91 h l>gely be5 sup]s$$ by :at is kn[n z ! ,anil9e ,black dye4 ,x 0 ! ,fr5* :o fir/ work$ out successfully ! application ( ,anil9e ,black to furs1 & ! me?od has atta9$ mu* importance & ext5sive use 9 ! fur dye+ indu/ry4 ,anil9e ,black is ! "n giv5 to an insoluble black dye/uff produc$ by ! oxidation ( anil9e 9 an acid m$ium4 ,z a f9i%$ product x _c be us$ 9 fur dye+1 b if ! hair ( ! furs be impregnat$ ) a suitable prep>ation ( anil9e & !n treat$ ) c]ta9 oxidiz+ ag5ts1 ! color w be =m$ on ! hair1 be+ firmly fix$ & giv+ a fa/ black1 resi/ant to light1 wa%+ & rubb+4 ,! basis ( ! dye1 anil9e1 is an oily liquid1 possess+ a peculi> fi%y odor1 colorless :5 pure1 b rapidly turn+ br[n :5 expos$ to ! air4 ,x is obta9$ f b5zol1 :i* is di/ill$ f coal-t>1 by treat+ ) nitric acid1 =m+ nitrob5zol1 :i* :5 subject$ to ! action ( r$uc+ *emicals is conv]t$ into anil9e4 ,! process may be %[n s*ematically z foll[s3 ,coal--coal-t>--b5zol--nitrob5zol--anil9 e oil--,anil9e ,black4 ,anil9e ,black 0 by no means a new dye :5 ! ,fr5* succe$$ 9 produc+ x on furs4 ,x _h be5 us$ = a long "t previ\s on textiles1 *iefly cotton4 ,! hi/ory ( ! developm5t ( ! ,anil9e ,black process ?r[s consid]able light on its nature & con/itution1 & s pres5ts _m features ( int]e/4 ,z e>ly z #ahcd1 ! *emi/ ,runge obs]v$ ! =mation ( a d>k gre5 color :5 heat$ anil9e nitrate 9 ! pres5ce ( cupric *loride4 ,frits*e1 9 #ahdj1 notic$ t :5 *romic acid 0 add$ to solutions ( anil9e salt1 a d>k gre51 & sometimes a blue-black precipitate 0 produc$1 & lat] ! same *emi/ obta9$ a deep blue by ! action ( potassium *lorate on anil9e salt4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t ,p]k91 9 #ahef1 conduct+ simil> exp]im5ts on ! oxidation ( anil9e ) *romic acid1 obta9$ a blue-black product f :i* he extract$ ! fir/ syn!tic coal-t> dye1 mauve4 ,?us f>1 all ! exp]im5ts on ! oxidation ( anil9e prov$ to be m]ely ( sci5tific int]e/1 b 9 #ahfb1 ,lightfoot pat5t$ a process = ! practical application ( colors =m$ by ! oxidation ( anil9e on ! fibre1 a gre5i% %ade be+ obta9$ by t me?od1 to :i* ! "n em]ald9e 0 giv51 & by subsequ5t treatm5t ) bi*romate ( pota%1 ! gre5 0 *ang$ to a deep blue color4 ,s9ce t "t1 ! me?ods = produc+ & apply+ ,anil9e ,black h be5 develop$ & improv$1 al?\gh all ! processes 7 bas$ on ! pr9ciples incorporat$ 9 ,lightfoot's orig9al pat5t4 ,h[ev]1 x 0 n until ! la/ decade ( ! n9ete5? c5tury t ! dye+ ( furs by means ( ! ,anil9e ,black me?od 0 successfully attempt$4 ,a k ( ! nature & ! mann] ( ! *emical *anges :i* take place 9 ! production ( ,anil9e ,black is a valuable aid 9 obta9+ satisfactory results 9 practise2 & al?\gh ,anil9e ,black 0 ext5sively us$ be=e ! true "* ( ! reaction 0 und]/ood1 s9ce ! successful det]m9ation ( ! con/itution ( ,anil9e ,black & ! discov]y ( ! real nature ( ! process by ,gre5 & 8 collaborators 9 #aiac1 ! me?ods h be5 consid]ably improv$ & simplifi$1 ) correspond+ly bett] results 9 dye+4 ,z a consequ5ce1 ! me?ods ( dye+ furs ) ,anil9e ,black h also become simpl] & m effici5t4 ,a discussion ( ! *emical *anges :i* occur 9 ! ,anil9e ,black process1 is out ( place "h on acc\nt ( ! highly involv$ & complicat$ "* ( ! reactions1 to und]/& :i* requires a consid]able k ( specializ$ organic *emi/ry4 ,b ! ess5tial features ( practical importance 9 ! production ( ,anil9e ,black are ! foll[+3 ,z already not$1 "o ( ! *>act]i/ic prop]ties ( anil9e is its t5d5cy to turn f a colorless to a d>k-br[n liquid 9 ! pres5ce ( ! air4 ,?is *ange is due1 toge!r ) c]ta9 o!r causes1 to an oxidation br\ght ab\t by atmosph]ic oxyg54 ,by employ+ oxidiz+ ag5ts1 ?is oxidation c be accel]at$ & c>ri$ fur!r1 & ev5tually ! ,anil9e ,black is obta9$4 ,among ! sub/ances :i* may be us$ to br+ ab\t ! conv]sion ( anil9e to ! insoluble black dye are manganese dioxide1 lead p]oxide1 hydrog5 p]oxide1 *romic acid1 f]ric salts1 potassium p]manganate1 *loric acid & *lorates 9 ! pres5ce ( c]ta9 metallic salts1 p>ticul>ly ^? ( vanadium & copp]4 ,*lorates1 especially sodium *lorate & potassium *lorate1 are ! mo/ commonly employ$ oxidiz+ ag5ts1 bi*romate ( soda or ( pota% be+ us$1 9 addition1 to complete ! oxidation4 ,:5 us+ *lorates x is necess>y to h pres5t 9 ! dye mixture a small quantity ( a metallic salt1 :i*1 :ile n ent]+ into ! reaction itself1 is nev]!less indisp5sable z an oxyg5 c>ri]4 ,vanadium comp\nds h prov$ to be ! mo/ effective = ?is purpose1 & accord+ to an au?ority1 "o "p ( vanadium salt is suffici5t to cause ! conv]sion ( #bgj1jjj p>ts ( anil9e to ,anil9e ,black1 ! necess>y am\nt ( a *lorate be+ pres5t ( c\rse4 ,salts ( copp]1 c]ium1 & iron are also ext5sively us$1 b !y are n q s effici5t z vanadium4 ,! =mation ( ! ,anil9e ,black 9 practise takes place 9 ?ree well-def9$ /eps1 :i* x is important to be able to recognize & di/+ui% 9 ord] to obta9 ! be/ results4 ,! fir/ /age ( ! oxidiz+ process produces :at is call$ em]ald9e1 :i* 9 ! acid m$ium ( ! anil9e ba? is ( a d>k gre51 :ile 9 ! free /ate x is ( a blue color4 ,z ! oxidation proce$s1 ! second /age develops1 ! em]ald9e be+ conv]t$ to a comp\nd call$ nigranil9e4 ,?is 9 acid solution is blue1 & ! free base is a d>k-blue1 almo/ black4 ,x 0 =m]ly consid]$ t ! nigranil9e 0 ! ,anil9e ,black prop]1 & s :5 ?is /age ( ! oxidation 0 rea*$1 ! process 0 (t5 int]rupt$ & n c>ri$ to ! limit4 ,?is c acc\nt = ! fact t ,anil9e ,black dye+s usually turn$ gre5 aft] a %ort "t4 ,! reason = ?is is t nigranil9e1 :5 treat$ ) weak r$uc+ ag5ts1 z1 = example1 sulphur\s acid1 is at once *ang$ to em]ald9e1 ) its d>k gre5 color4 ,s9ce !re is usually a small am\nt ( sulphur\s acid 9 ! air1 especially 9 places :]e coal or gas is burn$1 an ,anil9e ,black dye+ :i* has n be5 c>ri$ beyond ! nigranil9e /age w be r$uc$ 9 "t to ! em]ald9e1 & cause ! dye+ to become gre54 ,! la/ /ep 9 ! oxidation *anges ! nigranil9e into :at is prop]ly call$ ! ungre5able ,anil9e ,black4 ,weak r$uc+ sub/ances l sulphur\s acid d n *ange ?is comp\nd to em]ald9e1 & /rong] r$uc+ ag5ts only conv]t x to a br[ni% comp\nd1 :i* *anges back to ! black :5 expos$ to ! air4 ,x is q evid5t t 9 ord] to obta9 a black :i* w n *ange to gre5 9 "t1 ! oxidation ( ! anil9e mu/ be c>ri$ to ! la/ /age4 ,by mak+ te/s dur+ ! dye+ ( ! furs1 x c easily be det]m9$ :e!r ! oxidation has proce$$ f> en\gh4 ,9 ! dye+ ( textiles ) ,anil9e ,black1 x is cu/om>y to c>ry out ! op]ation at comp>atively high temp]atures1 approa*+ #ajj c5tigrade4 ,) furs su* temp]atures are out ( ! "q1 s x is necess>y to repeat ! dye+ sev]al times 9 ord] to obta9 ! prop] dep? ( %ade work+ 9 ! cold4 ,only ! bru% me?od c be us$ 9 apply+ ! ,anil9e ,black dye to furs1 on acc\nt ( ! /rong acidity ( ! dye mixture1 :i* w\ld ru9 ! lea!r1 if ! dye+ 7 done 9 a ba?4 ,inde$1 great c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ ev5 by ! bru% me?od to avoid too great p5etration ( ! dye liquid1 o!rwise ! roots ( ! hair w be attack$1 & ! lea!r may be 8burn$0 f ! hair side4 ,furs dy$ ) ,anil9e ,black are frequ5tly aft]-dy$ by ! dip-process ) logwood or "s o!r simil> dye1 9 ord] to add to ! brilliancy ( ! dye+4 ,comb9$ ) int5sity ( color1 ,anil9e ,black on furs is ! only dye :i* w also give fa/1 lu/r\s %ades1 & leave ! hair s(t & smoo?4 ,!re are sev]al me?ods ( apply+ ,anil9e ,black on furs1 ! mo/ important be+ #a4 ,"o-ba? ,anil9e ,black #b4 ,oxidation ,anil9e ,black #c4 ,diph5yl ,black #d4 ,anil9e ,black by ,gre5's ,process #a4 ,"o-ba? ,anil9e ,black ,a typical =mula = ?is me?od is ! foll[+ giv5 by ,beltz]3 ,anil9e salt #aj kg4 ,sodium *lorate #a4e kg4 ,copp] sulphate #j4g kg4 ,vanadate ( ammonia #aj gr4 ,all ^! sub/ances are dissolv$ hot 9 #ej lit]s ( wat]1 & all[$ to cool1 =m+ solution ,a4 ,anil9e salt is anil9e oil :i* has be5 neutraliz$ ) ! exact quantity ( hydro*loric acid to =m ! hydro*loride4 ,x =ms :ite or greyi% cry/all9e lumps v easily soluble 9 wat]4 ,! sodium *lorate is ! oxidiz+ ag5t1 & ! copp] sulphate & ! vanadate ( ammonia are ! oxyg5 c>ri]s4 #ae kg4 ( sodium bi*romate are also dissolv$ 9 #ej lit]s ( wat]1 =m+ solution ,b4 ,! bi*romate is also an oxidiz+ ag5t & s]ves to complete ! oxidation ( ! anil9e to ! black4 ,imm$iately be=e us+1 solutions ,a & ,b are mix$ toge!r1 bo? be+ cool4 ,9 g5]al practise x is cu/om>y to mix only small quantities at a "t1 z a consid]able precipitate =ms :5 ! :ole bat* is mix$ at once1 ! precipitate be+ s mu* wa/e dye sub/ance4 ,usually a lit] ( ,a & a lit] ( ,b are mix$ at a "t1 & ! furs bru%$ ) ! mixture4 ,! bru%+ mu/ be v>i$ accord+ z ! hair is h>d & /iff1 or s(t & t5d]4 ,! hair mu/ be ?or\ghly impregnat$ 9 all directions1 & ! p5etration mu/ n be too deep to affect ! lea!r4 ,) exp]i5ce & dext]ity satisfactory results c easily be a*iev$4 ,aft] ! sk9s h be5 prop]ly treat$1 !y are dri$ at a temp]ature ( ab\t #ce degrees c5tigrade4 ,:5 dry1 !y are return$ to ! dye b5*1 :]e !y receive ano!r application ( ! dye mixture1 & are aga9 dri$4 ,?is op]ation may be repeat$ z (t5 z six or sev5 times be=e a suffici5tly int5se black is obta9$4 ,ano!r way ( produc+ ! desir$ dep? ( %ade ) few] applications is by us+ m conc5trat$ dye mixtures4 ,ea* me?od has its disadvantages1 ! great] numb] ( bru%+s requir+ ! exp5diture ( m "t & labor1 & ! great] conc5tration ( ! ba? result+ 9 a consid]able loss ( dye sub/ance due to ! =mation ( a l>ge precipitate :5 ! two solutions are mix$1 & moreov]1 n all furs c be treat$ ) conc5trat$ mixtures4 ,! be/ results ) ?is me?od usually require ! application ( six coats ( a mixture ( mod]ate conc5tration4 #b4 ,oxidation ,anil9e ,black ,9 ord] to ov]come ! difficulty ( employ+ v conc5trat$ dye mixtures1 or ( mak+ _m applications ( ! dye1 a me?od 0 devis$ :]eby ! two solutions ( ! previ\s process1 in/ead ( be+ mix$ toge!r1 are appli$ successively to ! hair ( ! furs1 ! foll[+ =mula1 also by ,beltz]1 be+ an example3 ,anil9e oil #aj lit]s ,nitric acid #cf ,beaum1 or ,hydro*loric acid #bb ,beaum #bj lit]s ,cold wat] #bj lit]s ,?is is solution ,a1 & is m]ely a solution ( anil9e hydro*loride1 or nitrate1 dep5d+ on :i* acid has be5 us$4 ,nitric acid1 al?\gh m co/ly ?an ! hydro*loric acid1 is to be pref]r$1 because x is an oxidiz+ acid1 & s assi/s 9 ! oxidation ( ! anil9e1 & besides1 has a m b5eficial effect on ! hair ?an ! hydro*loric1 9 ! matt] ( s(tness & lu/]4 ,sodium *lorate #d kg4 ,copp] sulphate #a kg4 ,vanadate ( ammonia #aj gr4 ,wat] #ej lit]s ,?is is solution ,b1 conta9+ ! oxidiz+ ag5t1 & ! oxyg5 c>ri]s4 ,j be=e us+1 equal quantities ( ,a & ,b are mix$1 & ! sk9s bru%$ ) ! mixture4 ,! sk9s are !n dri$ at #ce-de c5tigrade1 at :i* temp]ature ! color beg9s to develop4 ,:5 almo/1 b n entirely dri$1 ! sk9s are subject$ to ! action ( w>m vapor1 :i* is all[$ to ent] ! dry+ *amb]1 s z to keep ! temp]ature ab\t #dj c5tigrade1 ! color develop+ bett] 9 ?is way4 ,?is op]ation may be repeat$1 or ! sk9s are directly treat$ ) a solution ( #be kg4 ( sodium bi*romate 9 #ajj lit]s ( wat]1 to complete ! oxidation4 ,! moi/ sk9s are expos$ to ! air = a "t1 & !n dri$ at #ce ,c4 ,?is me?od ( dye+ has sev]al advantages ov] ! ,"o-ba? ,anil9e ,black4 ,x requires few] bru%+s1 & enables ! complete utilization ( ! dye solutions )\t loss4 ,) ?ree applications ( ! dye mixture by ! ,oxidation process1 z deep & int5se a black c be obta9$ z ) six bru%+s by ! ,"o-ba? me?od4 ,! dye+s1 too1 are ne>ly1 b n fully z brilliant & ev5 z 9 ! latt] case4 ,! great] ! numb] ( coats ( dye t are appli$ ! m regul> w ! dye+ be4 #c4 ,diph5yl ,black ,9 #aijb1 ! ,f>bw]ke ,hoe*/1 a l>ge ,g]man produc] ( coal t> int]m$iates & dyes1 inv5t$ an ,anil9e ,black process to :i* !y gave ! "n ,diph5yl ,black4 ,! *ief dep>ture f ! previ\s ,anil9e ,black me?ods 0 ! replac+ ( "p ( ! anil9e oil ( ! dye mixture by ,diph5yl ,black ,base ,i1 :i* is p>a-am9odiph5ylam9e4 ,?is base has ! prop]ty ( be+ oxidiz$ to ,anil9e ,black1 j l anil9e oil1 & ! advantage claim$ = ! ,diph5yl ,black is t x produces an absolutely ungre5able black4 ,! me?od ( application is practically ! same z = ! o!r ,anil9e ,black processes1 *lorates be+ us$ z ! oxidiz+ ag5ts1 9 ! pres5ce ( oxyg5 c>ri]s su* z salts ( copp] & vanadium4 ,! use ( bi*romates is disp5s$ )4 ,on acc\nt ( ! comp>atively high co/ ( ! ,diph5yl ,black ,base ,i1 ?is me?od has n f\nd v ext5sive application1 especially z highly satisfactory ungre5able blacks c n[ be produc$ by o!r me?ods4 #d4 ,anil9e ,black by ,gre5's ,process ,9 #aijg1 ,gre51 :o has done mu* "w 9 ! direction ( elucidat+ ! "* ( ! ,anil9e ,black process1 obta9$ a pat5t = a me?od ( apply+ ,anil9e ,black 9 a mann] :i* 0 diff]5t f all ! previ\sly kn[n =mulas4 ,! inv5tion creat$ great int]e/1 & al?\gh 9 its orig9al =m x did n f9d a wide application1 _m ( ! me?ods us$ at ! pres5t "t are 9 "o way or ano!r d]iv$ f ! idea ( ,gre54 ,a resum ( ! pat5t w !re=e be giv5 "h3 8,! inv5tion relates to ! production ( an ,anil9e ,black1 ! new process diff]+ f all o!r kn[n processes by ! fact t ! oxidation ( anil9e is effect$ solely or ma9ly by ! oxyg5 ( air4 ,! possibility ( disp5s+ ) an oxidiz+ ag5t dep5ds on ! discov]y t ! addition ( a small quantity ( a p>a-diam9e1 or ( a p>a-amido-ph5ol to a mixture conta9+ anil9e & a suitable oxyg5 c>ri]1 su* z a salt ( copp]1 greatly accel]ates ! oxidation ( ! anil9e by ! atmosph]ic oxyg54 ,fur!r1 :]eas 9 ! ord9>y processes ( ,anil9e ,black1 ! quantity ( m9]al acid employ$ _c be mat]ially r$uc$ bel[ ! proportion ( "o equival5t to "o equival5t ( ! base1 "u ! new conditions ! m9]al acid may be :olly or p>tially replac$ by an organic acid su* z =mic acid1 )\t ! quality ( ! black be+ mat]ially affect$4 ,z suitable oxyg5 c>ri]s ! *lorides ( copp] h be5 f\nd to give ! be/ results1 x be+ pref]rable to use ! copp] 9 ! =m ( a cupr\s salt4 ,?is is effect$ by add+ to ! dye mixture cupric *loride1 toge!r ) a sulphite or bisulphite 9 suffici5t quantity to r$uce ! cupric salt to ! cupr\s /ate1 & a suffici5t quantity ( a soluble *loride to keep ! cupr\s *loride 9 solution4 ,among ! comp\nds suitable = ! production ( ?is black 9 conjunction ) anil9e are1 p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e1 dime?yl-p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e1 p>a-amido-diph5ylam9e1 p>a-amido-ph5ol1 etc40 ,?is me?od may be us$ alone z ! o!r ,anil9e ,blacks1 or ! dy$ sk9s may be aft]-dy$ 9 a ba? conta9+ a logwood dye1 or x may be us$ 9 conjunction ) m9]al dyes1 or ) ! ,oxidation ,colors 7see next *apt]74 ,a typical =mula = ! black by ,gre5's process is ! foll[+3 ,p>a-amido-ph5ol #j4e kg4 ,anil9e oil #aj lit]s ,hydro*loric acid #bb ,b4 #aj lit]s ,acetic acid #dj #e lit]s ,cold wat] #be lit]s ,?is is solution ,a4 ,solution ,b is prep>$ by dissolv+ ,copp] sulphate #b kg4 ,salammoniac #aj kg4 ,cold wat] #ej lit]s ,a & ,b are mix$1 & ! mixture appli$ to ! hair ( ! furs sev]al times1 dry+ ea* "t at #ce-dj ,c4 ,aft] ?ree coats ( dye h be5 appli$1 a pretty & fairly int5se black %ade is obta9$1 :i* is develop$ fur!r by treat+ ) a solution ( #be grams ( sodium bi*romate p] lit] ( wat]4 ,! sk9s are !n all[$ to dry 9 air1 & !n if desir$1 an aft]-dye+ is made ) "s o!r dye4 ,on acc\nt ( its extreme fa/ness1 ,anil9e ,black1 produc$ by any ( ! me?ods outl9$ above1 has atta9$ a ju/ifiable popul>ity = ! dye+ ( furs1 9 spite ( ! necessity ( us+ ! m or less cumb]some bru% me?od ( apply+ ! dye4 ,v rec5tly !re 0 issu$ to a ,g]man company a pat5t 9 :i* is describ$ a me?od :]eby furs c be dy$ ) ,anil9e ,black by ! dip process4 ,an ab/ract ( ! pat5t 7,d4 ,r4 ,p4 #ccdjb7 is z foll[s3 8,z is kn[n1 anil9e salt1 & simil> salts1 toge!r ) oxidiz+ ag5ts l bi*romates1 *lorates1 etc41 _c be us$ = dye+ furs by ! dip process1 because ! /rongly dissociat$ m9]al acid is injuri\s to ! lea!r4 ,! dissociation ( ! acid c be r$uc$ by add+ neutral salts1 l common salt1 or ,glaub]'s salt1 s t good results c be obta9$ by dye+ 9 a ba? ( ! dye mixture1 ! lea!r reta9+ its s(tness40 ,?us f> !re h be5 no reports ( ! successful practical application ( ?is pat5t1 s its value _c be discuss$4 ,x is extremely d\btful1 h[ev]1 t furs w ev] be dy$ 9 ! dyeba? ) ! pres5t type ( ,anil9e ,black =mulas1 no matt] :at sub/ances are add$ to prev5t ! lea!r f be+ affect$4 ,,*apt] ,,xv ,,fur ,,dye+ ,,oxidation ,,colors ,! ye> #ahhh may be consid]$ ! beg9n+ ( a new era 9 ! hi/ory ( fur dye+2 ! comm5cem5t ( a p]iod :i* 0 to see ! "t-honor$1 traditional me?ods ( ! ma/]s ( ! art give way to new] me?ods ( an entirely diff]5t "*2 & moreov]1 ! initiation ( an age :5 sci5ce ) its basis ( fact & logic1 0 to und]take ! rationalization ( an indu/ry :i* _h hi!rto work$ ^u a m or less irrational1 empirical & unc]ta9 compreh5sion ( ! fundam5tal pr9ciples involv$4 ,x 0 n ! "w ( a s+le day1 or ev5 ( a ye> :i* br\ght ab\t ! virtual revolution 9 ! dye+ ( furs1 b ! result ( long1 pati5t1 sy/ematic ef=t4 ,ab\t ?is "t1 ! ,g]man coal t> indu/ry 0 atta9+ its real /ride along ! pa? ( progress & a*ievem5t1 & _h already succe$$ 9 rea*+1 to an appreciable degree at any rate1 mo/ us]s ( color+ matt]s1 ) ! consequ5ce t ! natural dyes1 ) _! "t & labor-consum+ processes ( application 7 gradually be+ sup]s$$ by ! new syn!tic dye/uffs :i* c\ld be simply & quickly appli$4 ,x 0 n[ ! turn ( ! fur dye+ indu/ry to receive ! att5tion ( ! sci5ti/s & te*nologi/s responsible = ! gr[? ( ! coal t> dye indu/ry1 & s !re appe>$ 9 ! above-m5tion$ ye>1 ! foll[+ pat5ts1 tak5 out by a ,g]man *emi/ nam$ ,erdmann3 ,d4 ,r4 ,p4 #dgcdi ,a ,process = ,dye+ ,hair & ,fea!rs ,if :ite hair or fea!rs are soak$ 9 an aque\s or alcoholic solution ( p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e1 & !n expos$ to ! sl[ oxidation ( ! air1 or are treat$ 9 a second solution ) "s oxidiz+ ag5t1 !n ! hair or fea!rs w be dy$4 ,accord+ to ! oxidiz+ ag5t *os51 & ! conc5tration ( ! solution us$1 ! color obta9$ w be light or d>k1 v>y+ f ! pale/ blond to ! deepe/ blue-black4 ,p>ticul>ly suitable z oxidiz+ sub/ances are f]ric *loride1 p]manganates1 *lorates1 hypo*lorites1 bi*romates1 & hydrog5 p]oxide4 ,! dye+s are fa/1 t is1 !y d n come (f1 & ! color _c be remov$ by wa%+4 ,foll[+ examples may s]ve to make ! process cle>3 #bj grams pure p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e & #ad grams cau/ic soda are dissolv$ 9 a lit] ( wat]4 ,! hair1 previ\sly degreas$1 is soak$ ?or\ghly 9 ?is solution1 & :ile moi/ is ent]$ into a ?ree p] c5t solution ( p]oxide ( hydrog54 ,! action is n in/antane\s1 b aft] a day1 ! hair is dy$ a d>k %ade2 by repetition ( ^! op]ations a blue-black is obta9$4 ,! p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e c be replac$ 9 ?is process by o!r simil> bases1 su* z dime?yl-p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e1 z well z ! naph?yl5e-diam9es4 ,s9ce ! sub/ances :i* c be appli$ by ?is process are un9juri\s1 ! me?od describ$ c be us$ to dye human hair on ! head or be>d1 & s seems suit$ to replace = ! dye+ ( hair1 ! metallic salts & v>i\s pyrogallic solutions :i* are on ! m>ket1 & :i* are h>mful to ! heal?4 ,d4 ,r4 ,p4 #eajgc ,supplem5t to #dgcdi2 ,process = ,dye+ ,hair ,?is pat5t 0 an ext5sion ( ! orig9al pat5t to include c]ta9 oxy & amido-oxy comp\nds1 ! me?od be+ ess5tially ! same o!rwise z 9 ! orig9al pat5t4 ,an illu/ration ( ! process is z foll[s3 #gc grams p>a-amido ph5ol hydro*loride are dissolv$ ) #dj grams cau/ic soda 9 a lit] ( wat]4 ,! solution dyes hair a gold5-yell[1 :i* on subsequ5t treatm5t ) a solution ( f]ric *loride turns to a r$-br[n4 ,9 ^! two pat5ts is to be f\nd ! basis ( ! mod]n fur dyes & fur dye+ me?ods4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t furs 7 n m5tion$ at all 9 connection ) ! process1 :i* 0 int5d$ ma9ly = dye+ hair1 especially on ! human head4 ,x 0 only sev]al ye>s lat] t ! value ( ! me?od = dye+ furs 0 realiz$4 ,s ab\t #ahid1 ! ,akti5 ,gesells*aft fr ,anil9fabrikation put ^u ! m>ket ?ree fur dyes "u ! trade "n ,ursol1 ,ursol ,d1 giv+ d>k-br[n to black %ades2 ,ursol ,p1 giv+ r$-br[n colors2 & ,ursol ,c1 giv+ a yell[i%-br[n %ade4 ,pyrogallic acid _h be5 previ\sly us$ z a hair dye1 & also to a slight ext5t z a fur dye1 s x 0 us$ 9 conjunction ) ! ,ursol dyes = %ad+ purposes4 ,! new fur dyes 7 n dyes 9 ! ord9>ily accept$ s5se ( ! t]m4 ,!y 7 really coal-t> int]m$iates1 sub/ances simil> 9 "* to anil9e1 & _! dye+ prop]ty dep5d$ on ! fact t !y c\ld be oxidiz$ ei!r by atmosph]ic oxyg51 or by means ( oxidiz+ ag5ts1 =m+ color$ insoluble products4 ,:5 ! oxidation ( ! int]m$iate 0 caus$ to take place on ! hair ! color$ product =m$ on & 9 ! hair fibre1 & rema9$ fa/4 ,! reactions br++ ab\t ! conv]sion ( ! int]m$iate to ! color$ insoluble comp\nd are q analog\s to ^? ( ! ,anil9e ,black process1 ?\gh possibly n s complicat$1 ) ! important diff]5ce1 h[ev]1 t1 :ile 9 ! production ( ,anil9e ,black acid is ess5tial1 9 ! pres5t in/ance ! oxidation c be c>ri$ on 9 neutral or ev5 alkal9e m$ium4 ,on acc\nt ( ! "* ( ! me?od us$ 9 apply+ ! new fur dyes1 ! "n ,oxidation ,colors has be5 giv5 to !m4 ,/rictly speak+1 ,anil9e ,black is also an ,oxidation dye1 b x is usually consid]$ 9 a class by itself4 ,! me?ods us$ at fir/ 9 ! application ( ! ,ursol dyes to furs foll[$ closely ! process z describ$ 9 ! pat5ts4 ,! furs 7 fir/ kill$1 usually by bru%+ on a lime mixture1 dry+1 & !n beat+ out ! du/4 ,?is op]ation 0 repeat$1 if necess>y4 ,!n a solution ( ! desir$ dye1 mix$ ) an equal volume ( #c p]oxide ( hydrog5 0 bru%$ on & ! fur all[$ to lie expos$ to ! air4 ,! dye+ c\ld also be done by ! dip process1 less conc5trat$ solutions be+ us$4 ,by v>y+ ! conc5tration ( ! solution1 & prolong+ or %ort5+ ! "t ( action1 ! %ades c\ld be v>i$ f v light to v d>k1 & by comb9+ two or m ( ! ,oxidation ,colors1 _m diff]5t color effects c\ld be produc$4 ,soon o!r fur dyes 7 develop$ & put on ! m>ket2 = example1 ,ursol ,,db1 giv+ blue to blue-black %ades1 & ,ursol #b;,g1 yield+ yell[i% tones suitable = mix+ ) ! o!r colors4 ,ursol ,c 0 disc>d$ %ortly aft] its introduction4 ,! dye+s obta9$ ) ! ,oxidation ,colors seem$ to be v fa/1 resi/+ successfully ! action ( cold or hot wat]1 or ev5 hot soap solution4 ,moreov]1 a dy$ hair exam9$ "u ! microscope appe>$ to be color$ ?r\gh ! epid]mis to ! m$ulla1 & no individual p>ticles ( dye c\ld be disc]n$4 ,! new fur dyes _h _m evid5t advantages ov] ! color+ matt]s 9 g5]al use at ! "t4 ,! simplicity ( ! dye+ op]ations1 ! %ort duration ( ! process1 ! great t9ctorial p[] ( ! new products1 7 facts :i* /rongly recomm5d$ !mselves to ! progressive fur dy]4 ,! co/ ( ! dyes 0 high] ?an t ( ! vegetable dyes1 b ?is consid]ation 0 l>gely ov]balanc$ by ! sav+ 9 "t & labor 9 us+ !m4 ,& yet1 ! ,ursol dyes f\nd only a comp>atively small m>ket4 ,! majority ( fur dy]s1 always cons]vative & reluctant to turn f ! traditional ways ( ! indu/ry 7 skeptical (1 & ev5 ho/ile t[>ds ! new dyes & ! new me?ods ( dye+4 ,9 a s5se1 ?is opposition 0 ju/ifiable4 ,x 0 n an easy task to rel9qui% all at once me?ods :i* _h be5 successfully appli$ = g5]ations back1 & ) :i* !y 7 ?or\ghly exp]i5c$1 9 favor ( processes :i* 7 radically diff]5t1 & ) :i* !y _h no exp]i5ce at all4 ,b "s ent]pris+ spirits among ! fur dy]s und]took to try out ! new products & x 0 n long be=e ! skeptics _h good cause = condemn+ ! "w & a*ievem5ts ( ! *emi/s z f> z fur dye+ 0 conc]n$4 ,! new type ( dyes did possess "s ( ! advantages claim$ = !m1 b !y also possess$ _m highly objectionable features1 :i* _h nev] be5 manife/ ) ! vegetable dyes4 ,fir/ ( all1 ! dye+s 7 n s fa/ z _h at fir/ appe>$1 = ! color came (f ! hair :5 ! furs 7 rubb$1 bru%$ or beat54 ,!n x 0 obs]v$ t aft] a %ort "t "s ( ! dye+s *ang$ color1 & at ! same "t ! hair lo/ its gloss & became brittle4 ,! condition ( ! lea!r aft] dye+ 0 any?+ b satisfactory4 ,mo/ s]i\s ( all1 h[ev]1 0 ! appe>ance among ! work]s 9 ! dye+ e/abli%m5ts1 & also among ! furri]s :o work$ ) ! dy$ sk9s1 ( c]ta9 pa?ological conditions :i* _h hi!rto be5 unkn[n4 ,v>i\s sk9 diseases1 eczemas1 inflammation ( ! eyes1 a/hmatic affections & inte/9al irritations 7 "s ( ! afflictions :i* 7 directly attributable to ! use ( fur dyes ( ! ,ursol type4 ,m$ical sci5ce 0 at a loss to "k h[ to treat ^! ailm5ts1 because _! nature 0 n und]/ood4 ,"h inde$1 7 ob/acles ?reat5+ to de/roy all ! hopes :i* ! discov]y ( ! new class ( dyes _h ar\s$1 & to *eck at ! outset ! possibility ( rational progress 9 ! fur dye+ indu/ry4 ,b ! m5 ( sci5ce 7 n cont5t to let ! matt] drop ?us4 ,difficult problems _h be5 solv$ be=e1 & surely !re mu/ be "s way ( ov]com+ ! objections & delet]i\s features ( a sy/em ( fur dye+ :i* _h s mu* pot5tial m]it4 ,:]e h9drances sprang up 9 ! pa? ( progress1 x 0 ! duty ( ! *emi/ to remove !m1 & :5 difficulties arose1 x 0 up to him to resolve !m1 z f> z 0 humanly possible4 ,s ! *emi/s :o _h be5 responsible = ! introduction ( ! ,oxidation ,colors set !mselves to ! task ( elim9at+ ! undesirable or injuri\s qualities4 ,x 0 _m ye>s be=e ! results ( pa9/ak+ ef=t & p]si/5t /udy cle>$ up ! causes ( all ! objectionable aspects ( ! fur dyes1 & sugge/$ means ( ov]com+ !m satisfactorily4 ,! "w _h be5 direct$ to ! improvem5t ( ! dyes & ( ! me?ods ( dye+ ) !m4 ,pur] int]m$iates 7 produc$1 & m easily soluble ones1 s t !re w\ld be no possibility ( ultra-microscopic p>ticles ( ! dye be+ deposit$ on ! surface ( ! hair f ! dye solution1 in/ead ( be+ tak5 up )9 ! hair fibre4 ,x 0 ?is sup]ficial deposition ( m9ute cry/als ( ! dye or ( ! only p>tially oxidiz$ int]m$iate1 on ! hair1 cry/als s f9e z to be invisible 9 ! ord9>y high-p[] microscope1 :i* caus$ ! color to come (f :5 ! furs 7 bru%$ or beat51 giv+ rise to a du/ :i* 0 frequ5tly v injuri\s to ! heal?4 ,!n1 mordants 7 adopt$ to help fix ! dyes1 comp\nds ( copp]1 iron1 & *romium be+ us$ z =m]ly ) ! vegetable dyes1 & ! range ( %ades 0 also increas$ !reby4 ,c]ta9 ( ! ,oxidation ,colors _h a t5d5cy to sublime (f ! hair1 s ! dy$ hair 0 *emically aft]-treat$ 9 su* cases to prev5t ?is4 ,! causes ( ! pa?ological aspects ( dye+ ) ! ,oxidation fur dyes 7 n s readily dispos$ (4 ,b ! adoption ( devices to prev5t ! =mation & circulation ( du/ dur+ ! h&l+ ( ! dye1 ! employm5t ( adequate protection aga9/ contact ) ! dye or its solutions1 ! use ( ! mo/ dilute solutions possible 9 dye+1 ! ?or\gh wa%+ ( ! dy$ sk9s to remove any excess ( ! color+ matt]1 ! prev5tion ( du/ =mation 9 ! dry+ ( ! sk9s1 & ! rigid obs]vance (1 & adh]5ce to hygi5ic laws1 7 all factors 9 ! elim9ation ( ! heal?-impair+ phases ( dye+ ) ! ,oxidation ,colors4 ,x 0 only aft] all ^! improvem5ts _h be5 accompli%$ t ! fur dye int]m$iates began to acquire a degree ( popul>ity among fur dy]s1 & /range z x may seem1 !re 0 a m ready m>ket = ^! dyes 9 ,am]ica1 ?an 9 ,g]many :]e !y 7 manufactur$4 ,o!r manufactur]s ( coal-t> int]m$iates also began to produce fur dyes1 & s1 9 addition to ! ,ursols1 !re 7 ! ,nako br&1 ! ,furrol br&1 ! ,furre9 br&1 & "o or two o!rs4 ,new dyes 7 inv5t$1 until ! :ole range ( colors suitable = fur dye+ _h be5 produc$4 ,! black dye1 h[ev]1 pres5t$ "s difficulty4 ,a black dye :i* w\ld rival logwood blacks c\ld n be atta9$4 ,ursol ,,db 9 conjunction ) ,ursol ,d 0 be+ us$ to produce blui%-blacks1 b ! dye+s 7 n fa/1 turn+ r$di% aft] a "t4 ,9 #aiji1 a pat5t 0 tak5 out = a dye mixture1 :i* 0 made up l ! ,,db br&1 b in/ead ( us+ toluyl5e diam9e ) p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e1 ! new dye 0 made up ( a me?oxy1 or e?oxy-diam9e ) p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e1 & x yield$ brilliant blui%-blacks1 :i* 7 fa/1 & :i* v ne>ly approa*$ ! logwood black 9 lu/]1 int5sity1 & bloom4 ,= "s purposes1 h[ev]1 ! production ( a black color is /ill dep5d5t on ! use ( ! logwood dye4 ,:5 ! ,great ,w> cut (f to a l>ge degree ! importation ( sk9s dy$ 9 ,europe1 ! ,am]ican fur dye+ indu/ry develop$ trem5d\sly1 & 9 a comp>atively %ort "t 0 able satisfactorily to accompli% 9 ! way ( dye+ furs1 :at _h tak5 =eign dy]s a mu* long] p]iod to atta94 ,x _h be5 previ\sly consid]$ t furs c\ld be dy$ prop]ly only by ,european fur dy]s1 b ! a*ievem5ts 9 ?is direction by ,am]icans fully dispell$ ?is belief4 ,b ! success ( ! fur dy]s 9 ,am]ica might n h be5 s m>k$ or rapid1 _h x n be5 = ! "w ( ! ,am]ican *emi/s4 ,! w> _h also %ut (f ! supply ( ,g]man dyes1 ^u :i* ! dye+ indu/ries ( ,am]ica _h =m]ly be5 dep5d5t1 s ent]pris+ *emi/s 9 ?is c\ntry und]took to fill ! ne$1 & 9 a surpris+ly %ort "t1 ,am]ican fur dyes1 9 e respect ! equal ( ! =eign product 7 (f]$ to ! ,am]ican fur dy]s1 & at ! pres5t "t1 ! requirem5ts ( ! fur dye+ indu/ry 9 ?is c\ntry are be+ adequately met by dome/ic produc]s4 ,among ! br&s on ! m>ket are ! ,rodol1 ,furam9e1 ,furol1 & sev]al o!rs4 ,! ,oxidation ,colors are n[ be+ (f]$ 9 a high /ate ( purity1 & easily soluble1 free f any poison\s con/itu5ts1 & !re is absolutely no reason = ! appe>ance ( any pa?ological conditions among work]s on dy$ furs1 or us]s ( su* furs1 provid$ ! necess>y precautions h be5 tak5 9 ! dye+ process4 ,! occurr5ce ( any affection :i* c be trac$ to dy$ fur1 _c possibly be due to ! dye itself1 b to gross c>elessness & neglig5ce 9 dye+1 & 9 any su* ev5t1 ! dy] responsible %\ld be br\ght to acc\nt4 ,9 ord] to get a bett] und]/&+ ( ! nature & action ( ! ,oxidation ,colors1 a typical "o w be /udi$ 9 "s detail4 ,! mo/ important "o 9 ?is class is p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e1 usually designat$ by ! lett] ,d 9 all comm]cial br&s ( ?is fur dye1 :ile its *emical =mula is repres5t$ z ,c,h7,,nh74 ,:5 pure x occurs 9 colorless1 cry/all9e lumps1 :i* rapidly turn br[n :5 expos$ to ! air2 ! te*nical product ( comm]ce is ( a d>k-br[n color4 ,x dissolves readily 9 hot wat] :5 pure1 & also 9 acids4 ,at "o "t ! hydro*loride 0 us$ in/ead ( ! free base1 on acc\nt ( its great] solubility1 b n[ a base is made :i* is suffici5tly pure to be v soluble 9 wat]4 ,!re are sev]al me?ods ( prep>+ p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e3 fir/1 by ! r$uction ( amido-azob5zol1 ! product obta9$ 9 ?is way always conta9+ a slight am\nt ( anil9e1 :i* r$uces ! solubility1 & also gives rise to poison\s oxidation products dur+ ! dye+ process2 second1 by ! r$uction ( p>anitranil9e1 ! quality & solubility ( ! product 9 ?is case dep5d+ on ! purity ( ! />t+ mat]ial2 & ?ird1 by ! treatm5t ( p>a-di*loro-b5zol ) ammonia "u pressure1 ! be/ product be+ obta9$ by ?is me?od4 ,! crude p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e1 made by any ( ! above processes1 is g5]ally di/ill$ 9 vacuo1 ! ref9$ base be+ obta9$ z lumps ) a cry/all9e fracture4 ,! fir/ /ep 9 ! oxidation ( ! p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e is ! =mation ( qu9one di-im9e1 ,,nh3,c,h3,,nh4 ,?is is a v un/able comp\nd 9 ! free /ate1 & ev5 9 aque\s solution x decomposes )9 a comp>atively %ort "t1 or comb9es ) itself to =m a m /able sub/ance4 ,qu9one di-im9e has a v %>p1 p5etrat+ odor1 & produces viol5t local irritations :]ev] x comes 9 contact ) ! muc\s membrane4 ,if a small quantity ( p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e is absorb$ into ! human body1 by brea?+ ! du/1 or o!rwise1 ! =mation ( qu9one di-im9e takes place int]nally ) consequ5t irritation ( ! muc\s l9+ ?r\gh\t ! body4 ,! v>i\s pa?ological conditions m5tion$ be=e may be ascrib$ to irritation caus$ by qu9one di-im9e4 ,9 any dye+ process :]e !re is a possibility ( ! =mation ( qu9one di-im9e1 z is ! case ) mo/ dyes conta9+ p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e1 special precautions mu/ be tak5 by ! work]s 9 h&l+ ! dye or com+ 9 contact ) its solutions1 & no "o :o is p>ticul>ly s5sitive to irritation %\ld be p]mitt$ to "w 9 a place :]e su* dyes are us$4 ,! next /ep 9 ! oxidation ( ! p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e is ! =mation ( :at is call$ ,b&r[ski's base4 ,?ree p>ts ( ! qu9one di-im9e comb9e ) !mselves1 =m+ a sub/ance ( a br[n-black color1 :i* 0 =m]ly reg>d$ z ! f9al oxidation product4 ,! =mula ( ,b&r[ski's base is repres5t$ by ! foll[+ *emical hi]oglyphics3 7,,nh74,c,h4,n3,c,h3,n4,c,h7,,nh74 ,fur!r inve/igation has %[n t ! oxidation proce$s beyond ?is /age ) ! =mation ( a comp\nd ( :at is kn[n z ! az9e type1 :i* is depict$ by ! *emi/ z ,,nh ,,nh 7,,nh74,c,h ,c,h ,c,h4,,nh4 ,,nh ,,nh ,x is by no means c]ta9 t ?is sub/ance is ! true color+ matt] obta9$ by ! oxidation ( p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e1 = ! reactions may cont9ue /ill f>!r1 produc+ ev5 m complicat$ oxidation products4 ,sci5tific rese>* & /udy has n z yet gone beyond ?is /age4 ,! reactions ( ! o!r dyes ( ! ,oxidation type are q simil> to ^? ( p>a-ph5yl5e-diam9e1 "s be+ simpl]1 & o!rs be+ ev5 m complex4 ,! pres5ce ( c]ta9 *emical gr\ps 9 ! int]m$iate1 or ! relative position ( su* gr\ps are factors responsible = ! v>iations 9 %ade4 ,) ! v>i\s mordants1 ! ,oxidation ,colors give diff]5t %ades1 & a great range ( colors c be produc$ ei!r by comb9+ mordants1 or comb9+ dyes1 or bo?4 ,! foll[+ tables illu/rate ! %ades =m$ ) ! cu/om>y mordants4 ,,*rome ,,copp] ,,iron ,,direct ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,ursol ,d br[n black coal black coal black d>k br[n to br[n black ,ursol ,p dull r$ br[n dull d>k br[n grey br[n light br[n ,ursol #b;,g yell[ br[n dull yell[ yell[ br[n dull yell[ br[n ,ursol ,a 444 444 blue black blue to blue- black ,ursol #d;,g light br[n m$ium br[n yell[ pure yell[ ,ursol #d,r orange br[n light yell[ r$ br[n orange r$ br[n ,ursol ,grey ,b gre5i% grey gre5i% grey m\se grey 444 ,ursol ,grey ,r br[ni% grey br[ni% grey r$di% grey 444 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,fur dyes ( ,am]ican make be+ equal 9 e way to ! ,g]man product1 %[ ! same color reactions ) ! v>i\s mordants4 ,! foll[+ table %[s ! %ades produc$ ) ! same mordants z above3 ,,*rome ,,copp] ,,iron ,,direct ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,rodol ,d br[n black coal black coal black br[ni% black ,rodol ,p r$ br[n d>k br[n grey br[n light br[n ,rodol #b;,g yell[ br[n yell[ br[n yell[ br[n dull yell[ ,rodol #d;,g light br[n light br[n r$di% br[n pure yell[ ,rodol ,a 444 blue black 444 blue black ,rodol ,grey ,b gre5i% grey gre5i% grey m\se grey 444 ,rodol ,grey ,r gre5i% grey br[ni% grey m\se grey 444 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,all ^! %ades are produc$ by dye+ 9 a ba? conta9+ a neutral solution ( ! dye4 ,sometimes ! dye comes 9 ! =m ( a salt ( a m9]al acid1 l hydro*loric or sulphuric acid1 9 :i* case a suffici5t am\nt ( an alkali1 usually ammonia1 is add$ to lib]ate ! free base4 ,accord+ to ! ,cassella ,co41 ,g]man manufactur]s ( ! ,furrol br& ( fur dyes1 ! dye+ c also be c>ri$ on 9 slightly alkal9e or 9 slightly acid solution1 a diff]5t s]ies ( %ades be+ obta9$ 9 ea* in/ance4 ,ammonia is us$ to r5d] ! ba? alkal9e1 & =mic acid to make x acid4 ,! mo/ cu/om>y practise1 h[ev]1 is to use neutral solutions ( ! dyes4 ,= prep>+ ! mordant solutions mu* small] quantities ( ! metallic comp\nds are us$ ?an 9 ! case ( ! vegetable dyes4 ,) *rome mordants cream ( t>t> is always employ$ z an assi/ant1 & occasionally also ) copp] & ) iron mordants4 ,) copp]1 & also ) iron mordants no addition is made at all1 or sometimes a small quantity ( acetic acid is add$4 ,! temp]ature ( ! mordant solution is kept ab\t #cj ,c41 & ! duration ( ! mordant+ v>ies f #b-bd h\rs accord+ to ! dep? ( %ade desir$4 ,! conc5tration ( ! solution may also be v>i$1 x sometimes be+ j z well to use a /rong mordant solution & less duration ( mordant+4 ,*rome may be comb9$ ) copp]1 & iron may be comb9$ ) copp]1 b *rome & iron d n g toge!r z mordants4 ,"s typical av]age mordant+ =mulas are z foll[s3 ,*rome mordant4 ,bi*romate ( soda #b4e gms4 ,cream ( t>t> #a4e gms4 ,wat] #a lit] ,copp] mordant4 ,copp] sulphate #b gms4 7,acetic acid #ej #b gms47 ,wat] #a lit] ,iron mordant4 ,f]r\s sulphate #b gms4 7,acetic acid #ej #b gms47 ,wat] #a lit] or1 ,iron pyrolignite #cj #aj gms4 ,wat] #a lit] ,*rome-copp] mordant4 ,bi*romate ( soda #b gms4 ,copp] sulphate #j4be gms4 ,cream ( t>t> #a4j gms4 ,wat] #a lit] ,copp]-iron mordant4 ,copp] sulphate #b gms4 ,f]r\s sulphate #b gms4 7,acetic acid #ej #b gms47 ,wat] #a lit] ,! kill$ sk9s are imm]s$ 9 ! mordant+ solution1 & all[$ to rema9 ! requir$ l5g? ( "t4 ,!y are !n ?or\ghly r9s$ to remove any excess ( ! mordant1 & are hydro-extract$4 ,"u no circum/ances %\ld mordant$ sk9s be p]mitt$ to dry1 = !y w\ld be unfit = use aga94 ,! dyeba? is next prep>$ by dissolv+ ! necess>y quantity ( ! dye1 v>y+ f #j4a gm4 to #aj gms4 p] lit]4 ,!n if ! solution mu/ be neutraliz$1 ! ammonia is add$ & ! temp]ature ( ! ba? is br\ght to #cj-ce ,c4 by ! addition ( cold wat]4 ,?is temp]ature is ma9ta9$ ?r\gh\t ! dye+ op]ation4 ,to ! solution is add$ ! oxidiz+ ag5t4 ,ord9>y comm]cial p]oxide ( hydrog5 conta9+ #c by weight is ! usual oxidiz]1 al?\gh p]borates h be5 sugge/$4 #ae-bj p>ts ( p]oxide ( hydrog5 = e "p ( dye are add$1 & ! dye solution br\ght to ! prop] dilution4 ,z soon z ! dyeba? is ready1 ! sk9s are ent]$1 & work$ = a %ort "t to effect ev5 p5etration4 ,!y are !n left 9 ! dyeba? = #b-ab h\rs or long] accord+ to ! dep? ( %ade4 ,aft] be+ satisfactorily dy$1 ! furs are r9s$ ?or\ghly1 hydro-extract$ & dri$ & f9i%$4 ,:]e ! dye is to be appli$ by ! bru% to ! tips ( ! hair1 /rong] dye solutions are us$1 ! bru%$ sk9s be+ plac$ hair toge!r & let lie = ab\t #f h\rs 9 ord] to p]mit ! color to develop1 aft] :i* ! furs are dri$ & drum-clean$4 ,"s %ades1 p>ticul>ly black1 h a t5d5cy to rub (f slightly4 ,9 ord] to ov]come ?is1 ! dy$ furs1 aft] r9s+1 are treat$ ) a cold solution ( #a_/b "p ( copp] sulphate p] #ajjj p>ts ( wat]1 = #c-d h\rs1 !n )\t r9s+1 hydro-extract$ & dri$4 ,furs :i* h be5 tipp$ are bru%$ ) a #a-b solution ( copp] sulphate & dri$4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 9 ?is aft]-treatm5t1 = ! use ( too /rong a solution ( copp] sulphate1 or too prolong$ action ( su* a solution w mat]ially alt] ! %ade ( ! dy$ fur4 ,a few typical =mulas w s]ve to illu/rate ! g5]al me?ods ( employ+ ! ,oxidation ,colors3 ,br[n ,sable ,imitation on ,un%e>$ ,rabbit ,! sk9s are kill$ ) soda1 s\r$1 & wa%$1 !n mordant$ ) ,bi*romate ( soda #b grams ,copp] sulphate 4#be grams ,cream ( t>t> #a gram ,wat] #a lit] = #bd h\rs4 ,!n wa%$1 & dy$ = #bd h\rs ) ,fur ,br[n #b;,g#c #c grams ,hydrog5 p]oxide #de grams ,wat] #a lit] ,wa% & dry ! sk9s1 !n bru% ! tips ) ,fur ,br[n ,d#c #bj grams ,hydrog5 p]oxide #djj grams ,wat] #a lit] #c ,inasmu* z mo/ manufactur]s use ! same lett]s to designate ! v>i\s dyes1 any equival5t br& ( fur dye may be us$ 9 place ( ^? "h m5tion$4 ,black on ,%e>$ ,muskrat ,! sk9s are kill$ ) soda1 s\r$1 & wa%$1 !n *rome mordant$ = #f h\rs4 ,!n !y are dy$ = #f h\rs ) ,rodol ,p #a4e grams ,pyrogallic acid 4#g grams ,ammonia #b4j grams ,hydrog5 p]oxide #de grams ,wat] #a lit] ,! dy$ sk9s are wa%$ & dri$1 !n tipp$ ) ,rodol ,d #bj grams ,rodol ,,db #b grams ,hydrog5 p]oxide #dej grams ,wat] #a lit] ,br[n on ,?ibet ,%eep ,sk9 ,! kill$ sk9s are mordant$ = #f h\rs ) a *rome mordant1 !n dy$ = #f h\rs ) ,ursol ,p #a gram ,pyrogallic acid #a gram ,ammonia #b grams ,hydrog5 p]oxide #dj grams ,wat] #a lit] ,x is also possible to comb9e dye+s ) ! ,oxidation ,colors ) ,vegetable dye+s1 or ) ,anil9e ,black4 ,= example1 if x be desir$ to produce an imitation skunk on a raccoon1 & an exceptionally fa/ & int5se & lu/r\s black on ! tips ( ! hair1 ! sk9s are dy$ 9 ! ba? ) ! ,oxidation dyes1 & ! tips ( ! hair are bru%$ ) a mixture su* z describ$ "u ,vegetable ,colors = ! production ( ,fr5* seal1 z foll[s3 ,imitation ,skunk on ,raccoon ,! sk9s are kill$ ) cau/ic soda1 s\r$ & wa%$1 !n mordant$ ) an iron-copp] mordant z describ$1 & !n dy$ ) ,fur ,grey ,r #c grams ,ammonia #b grams ,p]oxide ( hydrog5 #de grams ,wat] #a lit] ,aft] wa%+ & dry+1 ! dy$ sk9s are bru%$ ov] ) a mixture su* z us$ = dye+ ,fr5* seal ) ,vegetable ,colors4 ,9 a simil> mann]1 ! ,oxidation ,colors may be us$ to give a base color to furs dy$ by ! ,anil9e ,black process4 ,x is app>5t f ^! few illu/rations t a great v>iety ( %ades c be produc$1 & ! dye+ ( imitations ( ! bett] class ( furs on *eap] sk9s is a comp>atively simple matt]1 aft] an und]/&+ ( ! nature ( ! dyes has be5 obta9$1 & a c]ta9 am\nt ( skill acquir$ 9 work+ ) ^! dyes4 ,,*apt] ,,xvi ,,fur ,,dye+ ,,coal ,,t> ,,dyes ,9 addition to ! ,anil9e ,blacks & ! ,oxidation ,colors already discuss$ !re are c]ta9 ( ! syn!tic coal t> dyes su* z are g5]ally us$ 9 ! dye+ ( textiles1 :i* c also be appli$ on furs4 ,!re are sev]al classes ( ^! dyes1 v>y+ some:at 9 _! nature1 & consequ5tly 9 _! mann] ( application2 9 ! ma9 !y produce bright %ades1 su* z are b seldom us$ on furs1 yet :i* may occasionally s]ve = ! production ( novel effects4 ,basic1 acid & *rome colors are ! types :i* c be employ$4 ,basic colors possess great fullness & t9ctorial /r5g?1 b h a t5d5cy to rub (f1 & ! tips ( ! hair take a d>k] %ade ) ^! dyes ?an ! re/ ( ! hair4 ,! addition ( acetic acid & ,glaub]'s salt to ! dyeba? w result 9 a m uni=m dye+4 ,on acc\nt ( ! comp>atively poor fa/ness to rubb+ & wa%+1 basic dyes are us$ only = dye+ furs :i* are int5d$ = *eap c>pet rugs1 su* z %eep & goat4 ,!y may also f9d use 9 ! production ( light fancy %ades on o!r :ite furs4 ,! proc$ure is usually z foll[s3 ,! furs are kill$ 9 ! cu/om>y mann] ) soap & soda or ammonia1 or if ?is is insuffici5t1 ) milk ( lime4 ,a soap-ba? is !n prep>$ conta9+ #b4e-f grams ( olive-oil soap p] lit] ( wat]4 ,! temp]ature ( ! ba? is br\ght to #dj ,c4 ,to ?is is add$ ! solution ( ! dye/uffs1 prep>$ by mix+ ! requir$ color or colors ) a little acetic acid to a pa/e1 & !n p\r+ boil+ wat] on ! mixture until dissolv$4 ,undissolv$ p>ticles or =eign matt] are remov$ by pass+ ?is solution ?r\gh a cotton clo? or sieve1 & ! cle> solution !n mix$ ) ! soap-ba?4 ,! well-wa%$ sk9s are !n ent]$ into ! dyeba? & imm]s$ = ab\t half an h\r1 or until ! desir$ dep? ( %ade is obta9$4 ,!y are !n remov$1 press$ or hydro-extract$ & dri$4 ,= ! production ( light %ades1 ! foll[+ dyes may be us$3 ,= cream1 light sulphur-yell[1 maize1 salmon1 etc4 ,comb9ations ( ,?i(lav9e ,rhodam9e ,b ,irisam9e ,g ,= gre5i%-yell[s ,comb9ations ( ,?i(lav9e ,victoria ,blue ,b ,= light p9k ,rhodam9e ,b ,irisam9e ,rose ,b5gal ,extra ,n ,= purple ,me?yl ,violet #c;,b-#f;,b ,cry/al ,violet ,= sky-blue ,victoria ,blue ,b ,= :ite ,victoria ,blue ,b 7,milk-:ite7 ,me?yl ,violet #c;,b-#f;,b ,cry/al ,violet 7,ivory-:ite7 ,to produce v delicate %ades1 ! moi/ dy$ sk9s are subject$ to a sulphur blea* ov]night1 to light5 ! color1 !n r9s$1 & dri$4 ,full1 brilliant %ades may be obta9$ by dye+ 9 a ba? ( #dj ,c41 acidulat$ ) #b-c grams ( acetic acid p] lit] ( solution1 ! foll[+ dye/uffs be+ suitable3 ,= yell[ to orange ,?i(lav9e ,p>aphosph9e ,rhodam9e ,safran9e ,new ,mag5ta ,o ,= p9k ,rhodam9e ,b ,rose ,b5gal ,extra ,n ,= light r$ ,safran9es ,= bordeaux & r$ ,mag5ta ,new ,mag5ta ,russian ,r$ ,c]ise ,= violet ,me?yl ,violet #f;,b-#d,r ,cry/al ,violet #e;,b ,= blue ,victoria ,blue ,b ,me?yl5e ,blue ,,bb ,new ,me?yl5e ,blue ,n ,= gre5 ,mala*ite ,gre5 ,cry/als ,brilliant ,gre5 ,cry/als1 or comb9ations ( ,?i(lav9e ,diamond ,phosph9e ,victoria ,blue ,b ,= br[n ,*rysoid9es ,bism>ck ,br[ns ,9 dye+ sk9s ) h>d] hair ?an t ( %eep or goat1 m]e kill+ is insuffici5t to r5d] ! hair capable ( tak+ up ! dye4 ,! sk9s are !re=e imm]s$ be=e dye+1 9 a cold1 weak solution ( *loride ( lime1 ! aff9ity ( ! hair = ! dye be+ !reby greatly increas$4 ,acid dyes are employ$ :5 a great] fa/ness is requir$ ?an c be obta9$ ) ! basic colors4 ,sulphuric acid 9 a quantity equal to half ! weight ( ! dye/uffs us$1 toge!r ) f\r times t quantity ( ,glaub]'s salt is add$ to ! dyeba?4 ,=mic acid may be us$ 9 place ( ! sulphuric acid1 v good results be+ obta9$4 ,! sk9s are imm]s$ 9 ! dyeba?1 & work$ until ?or\ghly soak$ ) ! dye liquor1 & !n all[$ to rema9 until ! prop] dep? ( %ade is atta9$1 or ov]night4 ,! temp]ature ( ! solution is ab\t #dj ,c41 & only v light %ades c be produc$ 9 ?is mann]4 ,9 #aijj & aga9 9 #aiad1 ! ,cassella ,co41 a l>ge ,g]man manufactur] ( dye/uffs1 obta9$ pat5ts = processes enabl+ ! dye+ ( furs 9 hot solution ) ! acid dyes4 ,! me?od requir$ t ! sk9s be *rome-tann$ 9 ord] to r5d] !m resi/ant to ! action ( hot solutions1 ! addition ( a small am\nt ( =maldehyde to ! *rome solution increas+ ?is effect4 ,! sk9s are !n treat$ ) a solution ( *loride ( lime 9 ord] to increase ! aff9ity ( ! hair = ! dye/uffs4 ,! me?od z x is n[ practis$ is z foll[s3 ,! sk9s :i* h be5 clean$ & wa%$ are *rome tann$ by ! me?od z describ$ 9 ! *apt] on ,tann+ ,me?ods1 #fj grams ( =maldehyde be+ add$ to e #aj lit]s ( ! *rome solution4 ,aft] prop] tann+ ! sk9s are r9s$1 & :ile /ill moi/ !y are subject$ to a treatm5t ) *loride ( lime4 ,!y are fir/ imm]s$ = #ae m9utes 9 a cold ba? conta9+ #abj grams ( hydro*loric acid #cb-cf ,twaddell p] #aj lit]s ( wat]1 !n )\t r9s+1 !y are ent]$ into a ba? made up by add+ gradually 9 f\r portions ! cle> solution ( #b-d grams ( ! *loride ( lime p] #aj lit]s ( wat]4 ,aft] work+ = an h\r1 ! sk9s are remov$ & ent]$ aga9 into ! acid solution1 9 :i* !y are work$ = ano!r #ae m9utes4 ,9 ord] to neutralize & remove ! la/ traces ( ! *loride ( lime f ! furs1 !y are r9s$ 9 a luke-w>m ba? conta9+ #a-b grams ( sodium ?iosulphate1 or hyposulphite ( soda1 9 #aj lit]s ( wat]4 ,! sk9s are !n r9s$ aga91 & hydro-extract$1 or press$1 & are ready = dye+4 ,! dyeba? is prep>$ ) ! requir$ quantity ( dye1 to :i* is add$ #aj-bj ,glaub]'s salt & #b-e acetic acid 7bo? calculat$ on ! weight ( ! sk9s74 ,! sk9s are ent]$ at #bj ,c41 !n aft] ?ree-qu>t]s ( an h\r to #dj ,c41 & !n aft] ano!r h\r sl[ly to #ej-ee ,c4 ,= blacks1 ! temp]ature is rais$ z high z #fe ,c4 ,aft] dye+ ! sk9s are treat$ ) a solution conta9+ p] #aj lit]s #ij-abj grams ( olive-oil soap #ab-be grams olive oil #ab grams ammonia = #ae m9utes1 !n hydro-extract$ & dri$1 )\t fur!r r9s+4 ,= ?is me?od ( dye+1 ! foll[+ dyes may be us$3 ,= yell[ & orange ,fa/ ,yell[ ,s ,acid ,yell[s ,naph?ol ,yell[ ,s ,tropaeol9e ,orange ,,gg1 ,r1 ,,ii1 ,,iv ,= r$s ,acid ,r$s ,lanafu*s9e ,azo ,orseille ,= violet ,azo ,wool ,violet ,acid ,violets ,= blue ,cyanole ,,ff ,azo ,wool ,blue ,naph?ol ,blue ,r ,=myl ,blue ,b ,= gre5 ,naph?ol ,gre5 ,b ,fa/ ,acid ,gre5 ,cyanole ,gre5 ,= br[n1 comb9ations ( ,fa/ ,yell[ ,s ,acid ,yell[s ,tropaeol9e ,,dd ,orange ,,gg ,lanafu*s9e ,indigo ,blue ,n ,cyanole ,b ,fa/ ,acid ,gre5 ,,bn ,= black ,naph?ylam9e ,blacks ,naph?ol ,blacks ,naph?ol ,blue-black ,= grey ,silv] ,grey ,n ,dy$ ) ! addition ( #a_/b-a ( alum ,! *rome colors are dy$ on furs :5 v fa/ %ades are desir$1 all ! fancy colors be+ produc$ 9 ?is mann]1 b = black1 only ! acid dyes are suitable4 ,! prep>ation ( ! sk9 is exactly ! same z = ! acid colors1 except t ! treatm5t ) *loride ( lime may be omitt$1 al?\gh = v full %ades x is desirable4 ,! dye+ is c>ri$ out z foll[s3 ,! dyeba? is prep>$ ) ! requisite am\nt ( ! desir$ dye/uff1 :i* is previ\sly dissolv$1 & to ?is is add$ a solution ( sodium bi*romate1 ! am\nt ( ?is sub/ance be+ half ! weight ( ! dye4 ,! solution is heat$ & ! sk9s ent]$ & dy$ = #a-b h\rs at #gj-hj ,c4 ,!n ! dyeba? is exhau/$ by ! addition ( #a_/c acetic acid1 ! sk9s be+ work$ = ano!r half h\r1 !n r9s$1 hydro-extract$ & dri$4 ,any ( ! "o-ba? *rome1 or aft]-*rome colors may be us$ = ?is me?od4 ,rec5tly me?ods h be5 pat5t$ = ! dye+ ( furs by means ( ! vat colors4 ,vat dyes are among ! fa/e/ color+ matt]s ev] produc$1 & _! application on furs w\ld be a great advantage1 if suitable %ades c\ld be obta9$4 ,! g5]al process = dye+ ) vat colors1 consi/s 9 r$uc+ ! dye1 :i* is usually v insoluble1 into a soluble 8leuco0 comp\nd1 by means ( hydrosulphites 9 ! pres5ce ( alkalies4 ,! leuco comp\nd is n a dye itself1 b :5 ! fibre absorbs x1 & is !n expos$ to ! air1 ! leuco comp\nd is reoxidiz$ to its orig9al insoluble =m1 :i* rema9s fa/ & p]man5t4 ,! use ( /rong alkalies 9 vat dye+ has hi!rto be5 a great ob/acle 9 ! use ( ^! dye/uffs1 b 9 #aiag1 ! ,f>bw]ke ,hoe*/1 a l>ge ,g]man dye works1 pat5t$ a process z foll[s3 8,a process = dye+ furs ) vat colors4 ,! dye+ is done 9 solutions ( ! vat dyes 7aft] ! addition ( gelat9e or "s o!r protective colloid71 :i* are r5d]$ neutral or only slightly alkal9e ) ammonia1 by neutraliz+ ! cau/ic soda ( ! solution ( ! leuco comp\nd ( ! vat dyes by ! addition ( ammonium salts1 or suitable acids4 ,! dye+s ?us obta9$ are uni=m & fa/1 ! lea!r is dy$ to only a slight degree1 & %[s no delet]i\s effects ( ! dyeba? on ! tannage40 ,z a practical application ( ?is process1 ano!r pat5t 0 tak5 out by ! same company1 also 9 #aiag1 z foll[s3 8,a process = produc+ fa/ blacks on furs1 consi/+ ( dye+ a gr\nd color ) appropriate vat dyes 9 a hydrosulphite vat1 & aft] oxidation 9 air1 topp+ ) an ,anil9e or ,diph5yl black4 ,! dye+s obta9$ by ! comb9ation ( vat dyes :i* are fa/ to oxidiz+ ag5ts1 ) an oxidation black1 h an appe>ance mat*+ t ( logwood black 9 beauty2 & ) a d>k-blue to blue-black "u-color1 & a full1 deep black top color1 _c be di/+ui%$ f logwood4 ,^! dye+s also h ! advantage ( be+ fa/] to light ?an logwood or o!r blacks40 ,:ile ^! processes und\bt$ly h _m m]itori\s qualities :i* make !m int]e/+1 !y d n seem z yet1 to h atta9$ any great practical application4 ,h[ev]1 x is a field ( fur dye+ :i* is wor? :ile develop+1 & ) c]ta9 necess>y improvem5ts 9 ^! processes1 ! vat dyes may yet sup]s$e p>tially "s ( ! o!r me?ods ( dye+ furs4 ,,*apt] ,,xvii ,,blea*+ ,,( ,,furs ,blea*+ is = ! purpose ( light5+ ! color ( furs1 & is mo/ g5]ally appli$ to :ite-hair$ sk9s su* z :ite fox1 erm9e1 & occasionally :ite lambs ( all k9ds1 & :ite be>s4 ,among su* furs1 pelts ( a naturally pure :ite tone are relatively sc>ce1 :ile 9 ! majority ( cases ! color ranges f a pale creamy :ite to a decid$ly yell[i% %ade4 ,colors :i* v>y f ! pure :ite detract consid]ably f ! attractiv5ess & consequ5t value ( ! fur1 & inde$1 "s pelts are s f> (f %ade t !y c only be us$ :5 dy$ a d>k] color4 ,mo/ :ite sk9s :i* are b slightly inf]ior 9 color c be br\ght to a pure :ite by blea*+1 & !y c !n be us$ natural4 ,"s pelts1 on ! o!r h&1 are p>ticul>ly resi/ant to ! action ( blea*+ ag5ts & _c be suffici5tly decoloriz$ to r5d] !m suitable = use natural1 s ^! are also dy$4 ,= ! production ( c]ta9 delicate or fancy dy$ %ades on :ite furs1 x is (t5 necess>y to blea* ! sk9s 9 ord] to be able to obta9 pure tones4 ,su* in/ances are n v common1 h[ev]4 ,occasionally d>k furs1 su* z beav]1 are blea*$ on ! tips ( ! hair1 a gold5 %ade be+ obta9$ !reby1 :i* at "o "t 0 q popul>1 b rec5tly su* effects h n be5 9 vogue4 ,9 ! blea*+ ( furs1 two /eps may be di/+ui%$1 fir/ degreas+1 & second1 blea*+ prop]4 ,9 ! prelim9>y op]ations ( fur dress+1 ! furs are treat$ ) soap or weak alkalies to cleanse !m & to remove excess oil f ! hair4 ,dur+ ! v>i\s processes & manipulations1 ! hair1 especially on :ite sk9s1 may become soil$ or some:at greasy aga91 s x is advisable to repeat ! clean+ process4 ,?is %\ld 9 e case be z light z possible1 us+ a weak solution ( soap = ! s(t] & clean] pelts1 or dilute solutions ( ammonium c>bonate or soda a% = ! m greasy-hair$ sk9s4 ,! sk9s are !n ?or\ghly r9s$ to remove all traces ( ! degreas+ mat]ial4 ,?is /ep is v ess5tial 9 ord] to obta9 uni=m blea*+4 ,broadly speak+1 !re are two g5]al me?ods :i* c be us$ 9 blea*+ furs1 "o involv+ ! use ( :at are kn[n z r$uc+ ag5ts1 & ! o!r employ+ oxidiz+ sub/ances4 ,among r$uc+ ag5ts :i* c be us$ = blea*+ furs are sulphur\s acid1 & its salts su* z sodium bisulphite & sodium sulphite2 hydrosulphites1 & d]ivatives4 #a4 ,sulphur\s acid4--,:5 sulphur is burn$1 sulphur dioxide gas is =m$4 ,9 ! pres5ce ( moi/ure1 or :5 dissolv$ 9 wat]1 ?is gas =ms sulphur\s acid1 :i* is "o ( ! mo/ commonly us$ blea*+ *emicals = all sorts ( mat]ials1 & is v effective = decoloriz+ furs4 ,! proc$ure usually foll[$ is to hang up ! moi/5$ sk9s on wood5 rods 9 a m or less cubical *amb] made ( /one or brick1 & l9$ ) wood or lead4 ,no o!r metals may be us$1 because !y are quickly corrod$ by ! sulphur\s acid4 ,! requisite quantity ( sulphur is plac$ 9 a pot 9 ! blea*+ *amb]1 & !n ignit$1 aft] :i* ! doors are %ut tight4 ,! fumes ( ! burn+ sulphur 9 contact ) ! moi/ hair readily ex]t _! blea*+ action on ! furs1 & ! op]ation is all[$ to proce$ = six or eight h\rs1 or ov]night4 ,!n by means ( fans or o!r devices1 ! air fill$ ) sulphur dioxide gas is )drawn f ! *amb]1 & replac$ by fre% air4 ,! door is op5$1 ! sk9s remov$1 expos$ to ! air = a "t1 !n r9s$1 & f9ally dri$ & f9i%$4 ,sometimes "o op]ation is n en\gh to suffici5tly blea* ! hair1 s ! process is repeat$4 ,sulphur dioxide gas c n[ be obta9$ compress$ 9 cyl9d]s1 :i* are m conv5i5t to h&le ?an burn+ sulphur4 ,! fl[ ( gas :i* is introduc$ into ! blea*+ *amb] by means ( a nozzle atta*$ to ! cyl9d]1 c be regulat$1 & ! blea*+ ?us ret>d$ or accel]at$4 #b4 ,sodium bisulphite & sodium sulphite4--,^! salts ( sulphur\s acid are effective 9 _! blea*+ action only :5 9 solution 9 ! pres5ce ( acids4 ,! acids lib]ate sulphur\s acid f ! salts1 s ?is me?od is virtually ! same z #a4 ,in/ead ( us+ ! salts ( sulphur\s acid1 sulphur dioxide may be dissolv$ 9 wat]1 & ! solution us$ = blea*+ by imm]s+ ! furs 9 x4 ,?is proc$ure1 :ile consum+ some:at less "t ?an ! *amb] process1 is m likely to affect ! lea!r1 :i* w\ld h to be retann$4 ,! pr9ciple is ! same z t involv$ 9 me?od #a4 #c4 ,hydrosulphites & d]ivatives4--,! blea*+ ag5t c be prep>$ by add+ z9c du/ to comm]cial bisulphite ( soda dissolv$ 9 ab\t f\r times its weight ( wat] until no m reaction is evid5t4 ,milk ( lime is !n add$ to precipitate ! z9c1 & ! cle> sup]natant liquid ( #a4e-e ,tw4 is us$ = blea*+4 ,! sk9s are imm]s$ = #ab-bd h\rs1 tak5 out1 wa%$ & f9i%$4 ,in/ead ( prep>+ ! hydrosulphite1 ! comm]cial products may be us$ ) great] conv5i5ce1 a solution conta9+ #a-d ( ! hydrosulphite p[d] be+ us$1 & ! sk9s treat$ 9 ?is until satisfactorily blea*$4 ,! blea*+ action ( sulphur\s acid & hydrosulphite is suppos$ to be due to ! r$uction ( ! color+ matt] ( ! hair to a colorless comp\nd2 or possibly to ! =mation ( a colorless comp\nd ( ! blea*+ mat]ial ) ! pigm5t4 ,! =m] seems ! m probable explanation1 because ! *ange is n a p]man5t "o1 ! orig9al natural color return+ aft] a long exposure ( ! blea*$ fur to air & light4 ,h[ev]1 ! results are suffici5tly endur+ to satisfy ! requirem5ts ( ! trade 9 ! class ( furs on :i* ^! me?ods ( blea*+ are us$4 ,blea*+ *emicals ) an oxidiz+ action g5]ally us$ = decoloriz+ furs are hydrog5 p]oxide & p]oxides2 occasionally hypo*lorites & p]manganates are also us$4 #a4 ,hydrog5 p]oxide4--,hydrog5 p]oxide is usually employ$ = blea*+ 9 ! =m ( its #c solution1 to :i* is add$ ab\t #bj cubic c5timet]s ( ammonia p] lit]4 ,! ammonia s]ves p>tially to neutralize ! acid :i* comm]cial p]oxide g5]ally conta9s1 & also to facilitate ! blea*+ action4 ,! ?or\ghly degreas$ sk9s are imm]s$ 9 ! solution until ! hair is completely wett$ by x1 are !n remov$1 & ev5ly press$ or hydro-extract$1 aft] :i* ! pelts are hung up to dry 9 ! air4 ,z ! hair becomes dri]1 ! conc5tration ( ! p]oxide becomes great]1 & consequ5tly ! blea*+ action is /rong]4 ,:]e !re is a likelihood ( ! lea!r be+ affect$ by ! blea*+ solution1 ! ammoniacal p]oxide may be appli$ to ! hair ) a f9e sponge or bru% until suffici5tly wett$1 & !n hang+ ! sk9s up to dry4 ,repetition ( ! process is sometimes necess>y to obta9 pure :ite1 b ! results are always excell5t4 #b4 ,p]oxides4--,! mo/ important ( ^! is sodium p]oxide1 :i* comes on ! m>ket z a yell[i%-:ite p[d]1 :i* mu/ be kept dry1 & away f any inflammable mat]ial1 z fires h be5 caus$ by ! contact ( ! p]oxide ) su* sub/ances4 ,:5 dissolv$ 9 wat]1 x is equival5t to a /rongly alkal9e solution ( p]oxide ( hydrog54 ,na,o #b;,h,o ,h,o #b,na,o,h sodium wat] p]oxide cau/ic p]oxide ( soda hydrog5 ,:5 dissolv$ 9 acid1 ! alkali is neutraliz$1 & a neutral solution ( p]oxide ( hydrog5 & a salt is obta9$1 & ?is me?od is us$ to obta9 p]oxide ( hydrog5 *eaply4 ,na,o ,h,,s ,h,o ,na,,s sulfuric sodium acid sulphate #c p>ts ( sodium p]oxide are sl[ly dissolv$ 9 a cold #a solution ( #d p>ts ( sulphuric acid1 /irr+ dur+ ! addition1 & mak+ ! result+ solution neutral to litmus pap]1 acid or m sodium p]oxide be+ add$ z ne$$4 ,!re is !n add$ #c-f p>ts ( a solution ( silicate ( soda ( #ij ,tw4 ,! sk9s are imm]s$ until prop]ly blea*$1 tak5 out1 pass$ ?r\gh a weak acid solution1 !n wa%$ & f9i%$4 ,?is me?od g5]ally requires ! lea!r to be retann$ aft] blea*+4 ,ano!r process1 :i* involves ! use ( p]oxides1 b :i* is n commonly practis$1 consi/s 9 rubb+ ! hair ) a pa/y mixture ( equal p>ts ( wat]1 b>ium dioxide1 & silicate ( soda1 hang+ up ! sk9s to dry1 & !n beat+ & bru%+ ! hair4 #c4 ,p]manganates4--,! only memb] ( ?is gr\p t f9ds practical application = blea*+ purposes is potassium p]manganate4 ,! sk9s are imm]s$ 9 a #j4a solution ( ! cry/als ( potassium p]manganate1 until ! hair acquires a deep br[n color4 ,!y are !n remov$1 r9s$1 & ent]$ into a second ba? conta9+ sulphur\s acid 9 solution1 prep>$ by acidify+ a solution ( sodium bisulphite4 ,! sk9s are !n work$ 9 ?is until fully blea*$4 ,x is ! p]manganate :i* does ! blea*+1 ! sulphur\s acid be+ = ! purpose ( dissolv+ ! br[n comp\nd ( manganese =m$ on ! hair4 #d4 ,hypo*lorites4--,*loride ( lime & sodium hypo*lorite1 :i* is prep>$ f ! =m]1 are ! *ief *emicals ( ?is type us$ = blea*+4 ,! sk9s are ent]$ into a weak solution ( ! hypo*lorite1 & left until ! hair is decoloriz$2 !n aft] remov+1 !y are pass$ ?r\gh a dilute acid1 & subsequ5tly ?r\gh a weak solution ( sodium ?iosulphate 9 ord] to remove all traces ( ! hypo*lorite4 ,?is me?od causes ! hair to acquire a h>% feel1 & ! yell[ color is nev] entirely elim9at$4 ,! hair1 h[ev]1 possesses a great aff9ity = c]ta9 types ( dye/uffs1 & x is only :5 ^! p>ticul> classes ( dyes are to be appli$ to ! furs1 t ! hypo*lorite blea* is us$4 7,see dye+ ) ,acid colors74 ,! v>i\s oxidation me?ods ( blea*+ are suppos$ to *ange ! color+ matt] ( ! hair into an entirely diff]5t & colorless comp\nd :i* _c return to its orig9al =m4 ,! blea* is !re=e p]man5t4 ,9 common practise1 ! sulphur\s acid1 & ! p]oxide ( hydrog5 me?ods are ! two *iefly employ$ 9 blea*+ processes4 ,sulphur\s acid is us$ to blea* ! *eap] k9ds ( furs1 :ile p]oxide ( hydrog5 is appli$ to ! f9] furs4 ,:i*ev] process is us$1 x is cu/om>y to give ! blea*$ sk9s a subsequ5t 8blue+10 by pass+ !m ?r\gh a v weak solution ( a blue or violet dye1 su* z indigo-c>m9e1 cry/al violet1 alkali blue or ultram>9e4 ,! furs are !n dri$ & f9i%$ (f z usual4 ,9 drum clean+ :ite furs1 gypsum or :ite s&1 or sometimes ev5 talc are us$ ) ! sawdu/1 or occasionally alone )\t ! sawdu/4 ,,bibliography ,all5 8,comm]cial ,organic ,analysis0 ,arm\r1 ,b4 ,r4 8,fur ,dress+ & ,dye+0 #aiai ---- ,color ,trade ,j\rnal1 ,vol4 #a1 p4 #ea-ec ---- ,j\r4 ,am]4 ,lea!r ,*emi/s' ,assn41 ,vol4 #ac1 p4 #fc-fi4 ,beld51 ,a4 ,l4 8,fur ,trade 9 ,am]ica0 #aiag ,beltz]1 ,f4 ,j4 ,g4 8,indu/rie des ,poils et ,f\rrures1 etc40 #aiab ---- ,revue ,g5]ale des ,mati]es ,colorantes1 ,vol4 #ab1 #aijh ,b5nett1 ,h4 ,g4 8,manufacture ( ,lea!r0 #aiaj ,b]tram1 ,p4 ,deuts*e ,frb]-,zeitung #ahie-if ,heft #ag1 p4 #bff ,bird1 ,f4 ,j4 8,am]ican ,practical ,dy]s' ,companion0 p4 #bda-bde ,bo]n]1 ,h4 ,kun//(fe1 #aiab p4 #bbc ,brevoort1 ,h4 ,l4 8,fur ,fibres z %[n 9 ! ,microscope0 #ahhf ,bu*]1 ,b4 8,ges*i*te d] te*nis*5 ,kn/e0 #ahge-ahic ,cubaeus1 ,p4 8,das ,ganze d] ,krs*n]ei0 #aiab ,davis1 ,c4 ,t4 8,manufacture ( ,lea!r0 ,erdmann1 ,e4 ,deuts*e ,frb]-,zeitung #ahid-ie ,heft #ba1 p4 #ccg ---- ,zeits*rift fr angew&te ,*emie1 #ahie1 ,heft #ad ---- ,zeits*rift fr angew&te ,*emie1 ,heft #ce1 #aije ---- ,b]i*te1 #aijd1 #cg1 p4 #bggf1 #bijf ,f>rell1 ,f4 ,j4 8,dye+ & ,clean+0 #aiab ,flem+1 ,l4 8,practical ,tann+0 #aiaf ,f\g]at1 ,l4 8,la ,pellet]ie dans l'antiquit1 la prhi/oire1 etc40 ,g>dn]1 ,w4 ,m4 8,wool ,dye+0 #ahif ,gr&m\g91 ,e4 ,zeits*rift fr ,f>b5-,indu/rie1 #aijf1 #e1 p4 #ada ,gru5e1 ,e4 ,deuts*e ,frb]-,zeitung1 #ahie-if ,heft #ac1 p4 #aig ,halle 8,w]k/tte d] heutig5 ,kn/e10 #agfb1 ,vol4 #b1 p4 #cag ,h>twig1 ,o4 ,l4 8,spr5gl]'s ,kn/e und ,h&w]ke10 #aghb ,hausman1 ,l4 ,a4 ,sci5tific ,mon?ly1 ,jan4 #aibj2 ,m>*1 #aiba ---- ,natural ,hi/ory1 ,vol4 #bj1 #d1 #aibj ---- ,am]ican ,j\rnal ( ,anatomy1 ,sept4 #aibj ---- ,am]ican ,naturali/1 ,nov4-,dec4 #aibj ,hayes1 ,a4 ,h4 ,national ,clean] & ,dy]1 ,nov4 #aibj1 p4 #ee-eg ,jacobson1 8,s*auplatz d] ,zeugmanufactur50 p4 #dic ,jones1 ,j4 ,w4 8,fur ,f>m+ 9 ,canada0 #aiac ,kne*t1 ,rawson ,loew5?al 8,manual ( ,dye+0 #aiaf ,kob]t1 ,r4 8,beitrage zur ,ges*i*te des ,g]b5s und d] ,ad/r+5ti50 #aiag ,ko5ig1 ,f4 ,zeits*rift fr angew&te ,*emie1 #aiad1 ,vol4 #a1 p4 #ebi ,lamb1 ,j4 ,w4 ,j\r4 ,soc4 ,dy]s ,col\ri/s ,dec4 #aije1 p4 #cbc ,lamb1 ,m4 ,c4 8,dress+ ( ,lea!r0 #aijh ---- ,j\r4 ,soc4 ,dy]s ,col\ri/s #aiac1 #bi1 p4 #afj-afe ,l>i% ,s*mid 8,das ,ku]s*n] ,h&w]k0 #a-c ,laut1 ,a4 ,c4 8,! ,fur ,trade ( ,am]ica0 #aiba ,lightfoot1 ,j4 8,! ,*emical ,hi/ory ,progress ( ,anil9e ,black0 #ahga ,mairet1 ,e4 ,m4 8,a ,book on ,vegetable ,dyes0 #aiaf ,m>t91 ,g4 8,indu/rial ,organic ,*emi/ry0 ,mat!ws1 ,j4 ,m4 8,application ( ,dye/uffs0 #aibj ,may]1 ,a4 8,die ,frb]ei 9 d] ,w]k/tte des ,krs*n]s0 ,mi]z9ski1 ,s4 8,die ,g]b und ,f>b/(fextrakte0 ,noelt+ ,lehne 8,anil9-,s*w>z0 #aijd ,p]k9s ,ev]e/ 8,natural ,organic ,color+ ,matt]s0 #aiah ,pet]s51 ,m4 8,! ,fur ,trad]s ,fur-,be>+ ,animals0 #aibj ,pol&1 ,h4 8,fur-,be>+ ,animals 9 ,nature & ,comm]ce0 ,proctor1 ,h4 8,lea!r ,indu/ries ,laboratory ,book0 ---- 8,tann+0 ---- 8,mak+ ( ,lea!r0 ,s*lottau]1 ,e4 ,deuts*e ,f>b]-,zeitung #aiaa1 ,heft #bj1 p4 #cig ---- ,deuts*] ,frb]-,kal5d] #aiaa1 p4 #fe ---- ,leipzig] ,frb]-,zeitung #aiji1 p4 #dda ,s*midt1 ,c4 ,h4 8,h&bu* d] ,weissg]b]ei0 ,setlik1 ,b4 ,deuts*e ,frb]-,zeitung #aija1 p4 #bac ,smi?1 ,r4 ,w4 ,color ,trade ,j\rnal ,vol4 #c1 ,sept4 #aiah1 p4 #cjd-caj ---- ,textile ,record]1 ,vol4 #cf1 p4 #bib-bic1 ,dec4 #aiah ---- ,revue ,g5]ale des ,mati]es ,colorantes1 ,vol4 #bc1 p4 #cb-cf ,/ev5son1 ,c4 ,h4 8,u4 ,s4 ,fi% ,commission ,report #aijb-aijc01 ,bullet9 ,no4 #ecg ,/ickelb]g]1 ,e4 8,ges*i*te d] ,g]b]ei0 #aiae ,/rass] 8,*emis*e ,frb]ei d] ,rau*w>50 #ahgi ,ullmann 8,enzyklop$ie d] te*nis*5 ,*emie0 ,villon1 ,a4 ,m4 8,trait pratique de la fabrication des cuirs1 etc40 #aijj ,w]n]1 ,h4 8,die ,krs*n]kun/0 #aiad ---- 8,das ,frb5 d] ,rau*w>50 #aiad ,:ittak]1 ,c4 ,m4 8,dye+ ) ,coal ,t> ,dyes0 #aiai ,wi5]1 ,f4 8,weissg]b]ei0 #ahgg ,witt-,lehman 8,*emis*e ,te*nologie d] ,gesp9/-,fas]n0 #aiaj ,zeidl]1 ,h4 8,die mod]ne ,l$]fabrikation0 #aiad ,,index ,acetate1 alum9um1 #aah ---- *romium1 #abj ---- copp]1 #abj ---- f]r\s1 #aai ---- lead1 #abf ,acetic acid1 #aab ,acid dyes1 #agd ,acids1 action (1 on hair1 #bi ---- ---- on sk91 #bf ,aft]-treatm5t ) copp]1 #afh ,alaska fox imitations1 #adc ,alkal9e alum9um mordants1 #abb ---- *romium mordants1 #abc ---- iron mordants1 #abc ,alum1 #cb1 #ec1 #aah ---- *rome1 #eg ---- -*rome tans1 #fd ---- tans1 #ed1 #ef ,alum9um acetate1 #aah ---- mordants1 #aah ---- sulphate1 #ec1 #aah ,ammonia1 #aaj ,ammonium sulphide1 #abf ,anil9e black1 #add ---- ---- by dip process1 #aed ---- ---- *emi/ry1 #ade ---- ---- ,gre5's process =1 #aeb ---- ---- nature (1 #add ---- ---- ,"o-ba?1 #adi ---- ---- ,oxidation1 #aej ---- ---- processes1 #adi ---- ---- ungre5able1 #adh ,anil9e oil1 #ade ,a/ra*an #e1 #g1 #ab ,bact]ia1 #ea ,badg]1 #g ,ball-drum1 #fb ,b&r[ski's base1 #afd ,basic dyes1 #aga ,beam1 #ch ,beam+1 #ch ,be>1 black1 #e1 #g ---- br[n1 #e1 #h ---- :ite1 #h ---- ---- blea*+ (1 #agi ,beat+ furs1 #gi ,beav]1 #e1 #h1 #be1 #hc1 #id ,bee*wood a%es1 #ajh ,bi*romate ( soda1 #aba1 #adg ,black1 anil9e1 #add ---- ---- by ,gre5's process1 #aeb ---- ---- *emi/ry (1 #ade ---- ---- nature (1 #add ---- ---- ,"o-ba?1 #adi ---- ---- ,oxidation1 #aej ---- ---- ungre5able1 #adh ,black1 diph5yl1 #aeb ---- logwood1 #aci ---- on ,*9ese goats1 #ada ---- on lambs1 #ada ---- on raccoon1 #acj ---- on skunk1 #acj ---- on wolf1 #acj ,blea*+ ( furs1 #agi ,bl5d+1 #ia1 #ajd ,blue-grey on :ite furs1 #adb ,blue+1 #ahd ,blue salt1 #abj ---- vitriol1 #aai ,borax1 #ci1 #eh ,brasile91 #ace ,brasil91 #ace ,brazilwood1 #ace ,bright %ades on furs1 #aga ,broadtail1 #h1 #ab ---- dye+ (1 #aci ,br[n on ,?ibet %eep1 #afi ---- ) natural dyes1 #adb ,bru% process1 #ih ,bru%es us$ 9 dye+1 #ajj ,butt]1 #fj1 #fc ,cage1 #hj ,cage+1 #hj ,campea*y wood1 #acc ,c>acul1 #h1 #ab ---- dress+ (1 #ec ,c>acul1 dye+ (1 #adj ,c>nivor\s animals1 furs (1 #cg ,cas$ sk9s1 #cf ,ca/or oil1 #fj1 #fc ,cat1 civet1 #e1 #h ---- h\se1 #h ,cau/ic soda1 #dd1 #aaj1 #aac ,c5trifugal ma*9e1 #dj ,*amb] dry+1 #gc ,*amois dress+1 #ca ---- tan1 #di1 #eh1 #fa ,*>act]i/ics ( tans1 #fe ,*e/nut extract1 #acc ,*9*illa1 #e1 #f1 #h1 #id ---- bl5d+ (1 #ia1 #ajd ,*9*illone1 #i ,*9a goat1 black on1 #ada ,*lorates1 #adg ,*loride ( lime1 #agd ---- ---- blea*1 #ahd ,*rome acetate1 #abj ---- alum1 #eg1 #abj ---- colors1 #agf ---- -copp] mordant1 #afg ---- -=maldehyde tan1 #fd ---- tans1 #eg1 #agd ,*romium mordants1 #abj1 #aff ---- ---- alkal9e1 #abc ---- salts 9 tann+1 #ec ,clean+ pelts1 #dj ,coal t> colors1 #aga ,cocoanut oil1 #fj ,cod-liv] oil1 #fj ,collag51 #be ,colloidal solutions1 #dh ,comb9ation tans1 #di1 #fd ,convey+ dy$ sk9s1 #ajd ,conveyor dry+1 #gc ,copp] acetate1 #aai ---- mordants1 #aai1 #aff ---- salts1 #aji ---- ---- aft]-treatm5t )1 #afh ---- sulphate1 #aai ,copp]as1 #aai ,copp]-iron mordant1 #afg ,cori91 #ba ,corium1 #ba ,cortex1 #bc ,cottonse$ oil1 #fj1 #fc ,cuba wood1 #acd ,cut*1 gambi]1 #fe1 #ace ,cuticle1 #bc ,davy1 ,sir ,humphrey1 #dg ,degreas+ furs1 #agi ,diph5yl black1 #aeb ,dip process1 #ih ,dress+ ( lambs1 #eb ---- ---- rabbits1 #ed ---- ---- moles1 #ed ,drum1 #hj ,drum-clean+1 #aje ,drumm+1 #gf ,dry+-oils1 #fj ,dry+ sk9s1 #ga ,durability ( furs1 #e ,dye+ furs at high] temp]atures1 #agd ,dye+ ( imitations1 #ic ---- ---- novelty %ades1 #ib ---- ) anil9e black1 #add ---- ---- coal t> colors1 #aga ---- ---- m9]al colors1 #abe ---- ---- oxidation colors1 #aee ---- ---- vegetable colors1 #abh ,egg-yolk1 #fc ,em]ald9e1 #ade ,enzymes1 #ea ,epid]mis1 #ba ,erdmann1 #aee ,erm9e1 #e1 #i ---- blea*+ (1 #agi ,fahrion1 #dh ,fat-gl&s1 #ba ,fats1 animal1 #ei ,f]m5tation1 #ea ,f]r\s acetate1 #aai ,f]r\s sulphate1 #aai ,f9i%+ dy$ furs1 #ajd ,fi%]1 #i ,fit*1 #i1 #id ,flat sk9s1 #cf ,fle%+1 #da ---- knife1 #ch1 #db ---- ma*9es1 #db ,fle% side1 #bb1 #cg ,=maldehyde1 #fc ---- -*rome tan1 #fd ---- tans1 #di1 #fc ,=mic acid1 #dd1 #ej ---- ---- z soak+ ag5t1 #ci ,fox1 black on1 #adj ---- blue1 #i ---- cross1 #d1 #aj ---- grey1 #aj ---- kit1 #aj ---- r$1 #d1 #e1 #aj ---- ---- dy$ imitation silv] fox1 #acg ---- silv]1 #d1 #aj ---- ---- imitations1 #acg1 #adc ---- :ite1 #aa1 #id ---- ---- blea*+ (1 #agi ,fr5* seal dye1 #ach1 #add ,furam9e dyes1 #afb ,fur beat+ ma*9e1 #hj ,fur dress+1 #cj ,fur dye+1 #ia ---- ---- difficulties (1 #ie ---- ---- ) anil9e black1 #add ---- ---- ) coal t> colors1 #aga ---- ---- ) m9]al colors1 #abe ---- ---- ) oxidation colors1 #aee ---- ---- ) vegetable colors1 #abh ,fur-hair1 #bd ,furri]s' guilds1 #cd1 #ij ,furrol dyes1 #aff ,furs1 colors (1 #c ---- description (1 #g ---- durability (1 #e ---- ( c>nivor\s animals1 #cg ---- ( h]bivor\s animals1 #cg ---- quality (1 #c1 #d ---- uses (1 #a ---- valuation (1 #f ---- weight (1 #e ,fu/ic1 #acd ---- %ades )1 #ace ,gall-nuts1 #abh1 #acb ,gambi] cut*1 #fe1 #ace ,gelat9e1 #a1 #be1 #dg1 #dh ,g5et1 #e ,glyc]9e1 #fc ,goat1 #e1 #aa ---- logwood black on1 #ada ,gre5's process = anil9e black1 #aeb ,grey-blue on :ite furs1 #adb ,gr\nd wat]1 #hg ,gu>d-hair1 #bd ,guilds1 furri]s'1 #cd1 #ij ,hair1 #bb ---- action ( acids on1 #bg ---- action ( alkalies on1 #bh ---- action ( salts on1 #bh ,ham/]1 #c1 #aa ,h>dness ( wat]1 #hg ,h>e1 #e1 #aa1 #id ---- black on1 #adj ---- blue-grey on1 #adb ---- lynx dye on1 #abf ---- /one m>t5 imitation on1 #abf ,hemate91 #acc ,hematoxyl91 #acc ,h]bivor\s animals1 furs (1 #cg ,hudson seal1 #add ,hydro-extraction1 #dj ,hydrog5 p]oxide1 #afh ---- ---- blea*+ )1 #ahb ,hydrosulphite blea*1 #aha ,hypo*lorites1 #ahd ,imitations1 dye+ (1 #ic ,iron mordants1 #aai1 #afg ,iron pyrolignite1 #aai ,iron salts 9 tann+1 #ec ,iron tan1 #eh ,iron vitriol1 #aai ,kang>oo1 #ab ,k]at91 #be ,kick]1 #fa ,kill+1 #ih1 #ajf ---- =mulas1 #ajh ---- nature (1 #ajg ---- purpose (1 #ajf ---- by bru% process1 #aaa ---- by dip process1 #aaa ---- ) cau/ic soda1 #aac ---- ) lime1 #aab ---- ) soda1 #aab ,knapp1 #df1 #eg ,knife1 beam+1 #ch ---- %av+1 #ch ---- fle%+1 #ch ,kol9sky1 #e1 #ab ,krimm]1 #e1 #ab1 #ac ,lactic acid1 #dd1 #ea ,lactic acid f]m5tation1 #ej ,lambs1 #ab ---- dress+ (1 #ej1 #ec ---- dye+ (1 #ib1 #adj1 #ada1 #adb ,l>d1 #fj ,lead1 acetate1 #abf ,lead sulphide dye1 #abf ,lea!r1 def9ition (1 #dh ---- dress+ (1 #cj ,leop>d1 #e1 #ac1 #id ---- tann+ (1 #dc ,lima wood1 #ace ,lime1 #ajh1 #aaj1 #aab ,l9se$ oil1 #fj ,li?>ge1 #aji ,l(t dry+1 #gb ,logwood1 #acc ---- blacks1 #aci ---- %ades )1 #acd ,lynx1 #e1 #ac ---- imitation on rabbit & h>e1 #abf ,lu/] ( hair1 #bc ,ma*9es us$ 9 bru% dye+1 #ajb ---- ---- dip dye+1 #ajc ,m>mot1 #ad1 #fh1 #id ,m>t51 bl5d+ (1 #ia1 #ajd ,m>t51 baum1 #e1 #ad ---- /one1 #e1 #ad ---- ---- imitation1 #abf ,m$ulla1 #bb ,meuni]1 #df ,m9]al colors1 #abe ---- oils1 #ei1 #fc ---- tans1 #di1 #ec ,m9k1 #e1 #ad1 #fh1 #id ,mole1 #e1 #ae ---- tann+ (1 #ed ,monkey1 #ae ,mordant+1 #ih1 #aad ,mordants1 alkal9e1 #aba ---- alum9um1 #aah ---- *rome-copp]1 #afg ---- *romium1 #abj1 #aff ---- copp]1 #aai1 #aff ---- copp]-iron1 #afg ---- iron1 #aai1 #afg ---- t91 #aba ,muc9es1 #be ,muskrat1 #e1 #ae1 #fh1 #id ---- imitation seal on1 #add1 #afi ,neats-foot oil1 #fj1 #fc ,n]adol ,d41 #fd ,nigranil9e1 #adg ,non-dry+ oils1 #fj1 #fc ,novelty %ades1 dye+ (1 #ib ,nutgalls1 #cc1 #acb ,nutria1 #e1 #ae1 #id ,oil+1 #fb1 #gg ,oils1 dry+1 #fj ---- non-dry+1 #ej ---- p>tially-dry+1 #fj1 #fc ,olive oil1 #fj ,"o-ba? anil9e black1 #adi ,opossum1 #e1 #ae1 #fh ---- black on1 #adj ---- skunk imitation on1 #ach ---- seal imitation on1 #add ,ott]1 ,riv]1 #e1 #af1 #id ---- ,sea1 #e1 #af ,ov]-hair1 #bd ,oxidation anil9e black1 #aej ---- colors1 #aee ---- ---- %ades )1 #afe ,p>a-amido ph5ol1 #aec1 #aeg ,p>a-ph5yl5e diam9e1 #aec1 #aeg1 #afb ,p>tially-dry+ oils1 #fj1 #fc ,pelage1 #b ,pelt1 #b ,p]nambuco wood1 #ace ,p]oxide ( hydrog51 #afh1 #ahb ,p]oxides1 #ahb ,p]sian lamb1 #e1 #ab ---- ---- dress+ (1 #ej1 #ec ---- ---- dye+ (1 #aci ,physical !ories ( tann+1 #dg ,pickle1 #di ,pigm5t granules1 #bc ,pony1 ,russian1 #e1 #af ,potassium p]manganate z a dye1 #abg ---- ---- z a blea*1 #ahc ,protective-hair1 #bd ,pyrolignite ( iron1 #aai ,qu]citron1 #ace ,qu9one di-im9e1 #afc ,rabbit1 #f1 #ag1 #id ---- imitation seal on1 #add ---- lynx imitation on1 #abf ---- sable imitation on1 #afh ---- /one m>t5 imitation on1 #abf ---- tann+ (1 #ed1 #fe ,raccoon1 #f1 #ag ---- black on1 #adj ---- skunk imitation on1 #agj ,ra9 wat]1 #hf ,r$ fox1 dy$ z silv] fox1 #acg ,r$wood1 #ace ,rodol colors1 #afe ,russian tan1 #ea ,sable1 #f1 #id ---- ,am]ican1 #ag ---- bl5d+ (1 #ia1 #ajd ---- imitation on rabbit1 #afh ---- ,russian1 #ah ,salammoniac1 #aji ,salt1 #cb1 #di ---- -acid tan1 #di ---- -wat] soak1 #ci ,salts1 neutral1 #ed ---- basic1 #ed1 #aae ,sawdu/ 9 drum-clean+1 #hj 8,s*rot-beize10 #ej ,seal1 #f1 #ah1 #id ---- fur1 #ah ---- dye+ (1 #ib1 #add ---- hair1 #ai ---- imitation on muskrat1 #ach1 #afi ---- -oil1 #fj ,%e>+1 #hb ---- ma*9e1 #hd ,%r9k+-po9t ( sk9s1 #ff ---- effect ( *emicals on1 #fg ,silv] fox imitations1 #acg1 #adc ,sk91 #ba ---- action ( acids on1 #bf ---- action ( alkalies on1 #bg ,skunk1 #f1 #ai1 #id ---- imitation on opossum1 #ach ---- ---- on raccoon1 #agj ,soak+ sk9s1 #ci ,soda a%1 #aaj1 #aab ,sodium bi*romate1 #aba1 #aff ---- bisulphite1 #abg1 #aha ---- *loride1 #di ---- p]oxide1 #ahb ---- sulphite1 #aha ,s(t wat]1 #hg ,s(t5+ sk9s1 #ch ,s\r+1 #aac ,squirrel1 #f1 #ai ,/ak+1 #gh ,/ann\s *loride1 #aba ,/iasny1 #fd ,/one m>t5 imitation1 #abf ,/ret*+1 #gh ---- ma*9es1 #gh ,sug> ( lead1 #abf ,sulphonat$ oils1 #fc ,sulphuric acid1 #di ,sulphur\s acid blea*1 #ahj ,suma*1 #abh1 #acc ---- tann+ )1 #cc ,surface wat]1 #hg ,sweat-gl&s1 #bb ,tall[1 #fj ,tann$ furs1 qualities (1 #dh ,tann+ me?ods1 comp>ison (1 #fe ,tann9s1 #cb1 #acb ,tig]1 #ai ,top-hair1 #bd ,tra9 oils1 #fc ,tramp+ ma*9e1 #fa ,turm]ic1 #acf ,"u-hair1 #bd ,"u-wool1 #bd ,ungre5able anil9e black1 #adh ,unhair+1 #hb ---- ma*9e1 #hc ,ursol dyes1 #aeg1 #afe ,vanadium comp\nds1 #adg ,vat dyes1 #agg ,vegetable dyes1 #abh1 #acf ---- oils1 #ei ---- tans1 #di1 #fe ,v]digris1 #abj ,wat]1 h>d1 #hg ---- s(t1 #hg ,:ale oil1 #fj ,:ite fox1 blea*+ (1 #agi ,wolf1 #f1 #ai ,wolv]9e1 #f1 #bj ,wombat1 #bj ,wood dyes1 #abh ,yell[ wood1 #acd ,,lit]ature ,,( ,,! ,,*emical ,,indu/ries ,on our %elves is ! mo/ complete /ock ( te*nical1 indu/rial1 eng9e]+ & sci5tific books 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,! te*nical lit]ature ( e trade is well repres5t$1 z is also ! lit]ature relat+ to ! v>i\s sci5ces1 bo? ! books useful = ref]5ce z well z ^? fitt$ = /ud5ts' use z textbooks4 ,a l>ge numb] ( ^! we publi% & = an ev] increas+ numb] we are ! sole ag5ts4 ,,all ,,inquiries ,,made ,,( ,,u ,,are ,,*e]fully ,,& ,,c>efully ,,answ]$ ,,& ,,complete ,,catalogs ,,z ,,well ,,z ,,special ,,li/s ,,s5t ,,free ,,on ,,reque/ ,illu/ration ,d4 ,,van ,,no/r& ,,company ,publi%]s & ,booksell]s #h ,,w>r5 ,,/reet ,,new ,,york 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcrib]'s ,notes3 ,punctuation has be5 /&>dis$--9 p>ticul>1 miss+ p]iods & quotation m>ks h be5 suppli$ :]e obvi\sly requir$4 ,?ree entries 9 ! bibliography 7 locat$ out ( alphabetical ord]1 & h be5 mov$ accord+ly 7,f\g]at1 ,lamb1 ,m>t974 ,all o!r orig9al errors & inconsi/5cies h be5 reta9$1 except z foll[s3 ,page #g3 *ang$ ,enclyclop$ia to ,encyclop$ia 79 ,encyclop$ia ,britannica1 #aa? ,ed47 ,page #bj3 *ang$ ,kaola to ,koala 7,koala or ,au/ralian ,be>47 ,page #fb3 *ang$ p>tiul> to p>ticul> 7on ! p>ticul> fur treatm5t7 ,page #fg3 *ang$ degress to degrees 7almo/ #aj degrees high] ?an7 ,page #gc3 *ang$ same:at to some:at 7bas$ on a some:at diff]5t7 ,page #ic3 *ang$ imitatations to imitations 7dye+ ( imitations to a great7 ,page #aja3 *ang$ diagramatically to diagrammatically 7& ,b %[s diagrammatically1 ma*9es7 ,page #abh3 *ang$ conjuction to conjunction 7:i* 9 conjunction ) c]ta97 ,page #acf3 *ang$ curcuma to ,curcuma 7/em ( ! ,curcuma t9ctoria17 ,page #acg3 *ang$ simutane\sly to simultane\sly 7& dye simultane\sly2 & ?ird7 ,page #adj3 *ang$ atmoph]ic to atmosph]ic 7aid ( ! atmosph]ic oxyg547 ,page #adb3 *ang$ foll[l[+ to foll[+ 7successively 9 ! foll[+ ba?s37 ,page #adi3 *ang$ ozidiz+ to oxidiz+ 7is also an oxidiz+ ag5t &7 ,page #aed3 *ang$ dryig to dry+ 7sev]al times1 dry+ ea* "t at7 ,page #afa3 *ang$ manufacur]s to manufactur]s 7,o!r manufactur]s ( coal-t>7 ,page #agj3 *ang$ ,racoon to ,raccoon 7,imitation ,skunk on ,raccoon7 ,page #ahe3 *ang$ ,w]k/atte to ,w]k/tte 7,halle 8,w]k/tte d] heutig57 ,page #ahe3 *ang$ ,g]b5 to ,g]b5s 7,ges*i*te des ,g]b5s und d]7 ,page #ahe3 *ang$ ,a/r+5ti5 to ,ad/r+5ti5 7und d] ,ad/r+5ti50 #aiag7