,,historical ,,and ,,biographical ,,works4 ,,arnold1 7,dr47 ,early ,history of ,rome4 #b vols4 #hvo44444#e #jj ,,arnold1 7,dr47 ,history of the ,later ,roman ,commonwealth4 #hvo444444#b #ej ,,arnold1 7,dr47 ,lectures on ,modern ,history1 edited by ,professor ,reed4 #abmo444444#a #be ,,arnold1 7,dr47 ,life and ,correspondence1 by the ,rev4 ,a4 ,p4 ,stanley4 #b;d ed4 #hvo444444#b #jj ,,burnett',s ,history of the ,northwestern ,territory4 #hvo444444#b #ej ,,carlyle',s ,life of ,schiller4 ,a new edition4 #abmo444444#ge ,,coit',s ,history of ,puritanism4 #abmo444444#a #jj ,,evelyn',s ,life of ,mrs4 ,godolphin1 edited by ,bishop of ,oxford4 #abmo444444#ej ,,frost1 7,professor7 ,history of the ,united ,states ,navy4 ,plates4 #abmo444444#a #jj ,,frost1 7,professor7 ,history of the ,united ,states ,army4 ,plates4 #abmo444444#a #jj ,,frost1 7,professor7 ,history of the ,indians of ,north ,america4 ,plates4 #abmo444444#a #jj ,,frost1 7,professor7 ,history of the ,colonies of ,america4 #abmo4 ,illustrated444444#a #jj ,,frost1 7,professor7 ,life of ,gen4 ,zachary ,taylor4 #abmo4 ,illustrated444444#a #be ,,guizot',s ,history of ,civilization in ,europe1 edited by ,professor ,henry4 #abmo444444#a #jj ,,guizot',s ,complete ,history of ,civilization1 translated by ,hazlett4 #d vols444444#c #ej ,,guizot',s ,history of the ,english ,revolution1 #afaj4 #abmo444444#a #be ,,gayarre',s ,romance of the ,history of ,louisiana4 #abmo444444#a #jj ,,hull1 7,general7 ,military and ,civil ,life4 #hvo444444#b #jj ,,king1 7,colonel7 ,history of the ,argentine ,republic4 #abmo444444#ge ,,kohlrausch',s ,complete ,history of ,germany4 #hvo444444#a #ej ,,mahon',s 7,lord7 ,history of ,england1 edited by ,professor ,reed4 #b vols41 #hvo444444#e #jj ,,michelet',s ,history of ,france from the ,earliest ,period4 #b vols444444#e #ej ,,michelet',s ,history of the ,roman ,republic4 #abmo444444#ij ,,michelet',s ,history of the ,people4 #abmo444444#fc ,,michelet',s ,life of ,martin ,luther4 #abmo444444#ge ,,napoleon1 ,life of1 from the ,french of ,laurent ,de ,l',ardeche4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #ejj cuts44444#d #jj ,o',,callaghan',s ,early ,history of ,new ,york4 #b vols4 #hvo444444#e #jj ,,rowan',s ,history of the ,french ,revolution4 #ahmo4 #b vols4 in #a44444fc ,,sewell',s ,child's ,history of ,rome4 #ahmo444444#ej ,,southey',s ,life of ,oliver ,cromwell4 #ahmo444444#ch ,,sprague',s ,history of the ,florida ,war4 ,map and ,plates4 #hvo444444#b #ej ,,steven',s ,history of ,georgia4 vol4 #a44444b #ej ,,taylor',s ,natural ,history of ,society in the ,barbarous and ,civilized ,state4 #b vols4 #abmo444444#b #be ,,taylor',s ,manual of ,ancient and ,modern ,history4 ,edited by ,professor ,henry4 #hvo444444#b #ej ,,taylor',s ,ancient ,history--,separate44444#a #be ,,taylor',s ,modern ,history--,separate44444#a #ej ,used as a ,text-book in several ,colleges4 ,,twiss4 ,history of the ,oregon ,territory4 #abmo444444#ge ,,law ,,books4 ,,anthon',s ,law ,student2 or1 ,guides to the ,study of the ,law in its ,principles4 ,,holcombe',s ,digest of the ,decisions of the ,supreme ,court of the ,u4 ,s41 from its ,commencement to the present time4 ,large #hvo41 law sheep44444#f #jj ,,holcombe',s ,supreme ,court ,leading ,cases on ,commercial ,law4 #hvo41 law sheep44444#d #jj ,,holcombe',s ,law of ,debtor and ,creditor in the ,united ,states and ,canada4 #hvo444444#c #ej ,,smith',s ,compendium of ,mercantile ,law4 ,with ,large ,american ,additions1 by ,holcombe and ,gholson4 #hvo41 law sheep44444#d #jj ,these volumes are highly commended by ,justices ,taney and ,woodbury1 ,daniel ,webster1 ,rufus ,choate1 and ,chancellor ,kent1 c4 ,,warren',s ,popular and ,practical ,introduction to ,law ,studies4 ,with ,american additions1 by ,thomas ,w4 ,clerke4 #hvo41 law sheep44444#c #ej ,,miscellaneous4 ,,acton1 or the ,circle of ,life4 #a #be ,,agnell',s ,book of ,chess4 ,a ,complete ,guide to the ,game4 ,steel ,illustrations444444#abmo444444#a #ej ,,appletons' ,library ,manual2 a valuable book of reference for the book buyer and seller4 #ejj pp41 #hvo41 paper cover1 #a2 half roan44444#a #be ,,appletons' ,new and ,complete ,united ,states ,traveller's ,guide1 including the ,canadas1 c4 ,nearly #ej ,maps4 #afmo4 ,,appletons' ,southern ,western ,guide1 with ,maps of the ,routes and ,plans of the ,principal ,cities444444#afmo444444#a #jj ,,appletons' ,northern and ,eastern ,traveller's ,guide1 with #cj ,maps of ,routes1 ,plans of ,cities1 c4 #afmo444444#a #be ,,arnold',s ,miscellaneous ,works44444#b #jj ,,ballet ,,girl1 ,the ,natural ,history of4 ,by ,albert ,smith4 ,with ,illustrations4 #ahmo444444#be ,,blanchard',s ,heads and ,tales of ,travellers4 #ahmo444444#be ,,chapman',s ,instructions on the ,use of the ,american ,rifle44444#a #be ,,deleuze',s ,treatise on ,animal ,magnetism44444#a #jj ,,ellis',s ,mothers1 ,daughters1 and ,women of ,england4 ,each44444#ej ,,frost 7,professor74 ,book of ,good ,examples4 #abmo4 ,illustrated44444#a #jj ,,frost4 ,book of ,anecdotes4 #abmo4 ,illustrated44444#a #jj ,,frost4 ,book of ,illustrious ,mechanics4 #abmo4 ,illustrated44444#a #jj ,,gent1 7,the ,natural ,history of74 ,by ,albert ,smith4 ,illustrated44444#be ,,grant',s ,memoirs of an ,american ,lady4 #abmo444444#ge ,,guizot',s ,democracy in ,france44444#be ,,hobson4 ,my ,uncle ,hobson ,i444444#ej ,,kip',s ,christmas ,holidays in ,rome4 #abmo444444#a #jj ,,lamb',s ,final ,memorials4 ,edited by ,talfourd4 #abmo444444#ge ,,lanman',s ,summer in the ,wilderness4 #abmo444444#fc ,,leger',s ,history of ,animal ,magnetism4 #abmo444444#a #be ,,powell',s ,living ,authors of ,england4 #abmo444444#a #jj ,,republic of the ,united ,states4 ,its ,duties1 c4 #abmo444444#ge ,,roget',s ,economic ,chess ,board ,companion1 in ,case44444#ej ,,sawyer',s ,plea for ,amusement44444#ej ,,select ,italian ,comedies4 #abmo444444#a #jj ,,something ,,for ,,every ,,body4 ,by ,robert ,carlton4 #abmo444444#ge ,,southgate 7,bishop74 ,visit to ,syrian ,church44444#a #jj ,,tuckerman',s ,american ,artist ,life44444#ge ,,wanderings in the ,western ,world2 or1 the ,european in ,america44444#ge ,,wayland',s ,real ,life in ,england44444#ch ,,whipple',s ,essays and ,reviews4 #b vols4 #abmo444444#b #be ,,warner',s ,rudimental ,lessons in ,music4 #ahmo444444#ej ---- ,primary ,note ,reader44444#be ,,woman',s ,,worth2 or ,hints to ,raise the ,female ,character4 ,by a ,lady4 #ahmo444444#ch ,,science ,,and ,,useful ,,arts4 ,,ansted',s ,gold ,seeker's ,manual4 #abmo444444#be ,,arnot',s ,gothic ,architecture1 applied to ,modern ,residences4 ,parts1 each44444#be ,,bourne',s ,catechism of the ,steam ,engine4 #ahmo444444#ge ,,bouissangault',s ,rural ,economy44444#a #ej ,,byrne',s ,new ,method of ,calculating ,logarithms4 #afmo444444#a #jj ---- ,dictionary of ,machine1 ,mechanic ,engine ,work4 ,publishing4 ,in numbers1 each44444#be ,,cooley',s ,cyclopdia of #fjjj ,practical ,receipts1 in all branches of ,arts1 ,manufactures1 and ,trades44444#b #be ,,falkner',s ,farmer's ,manual444444#ej ,,farmer',s ,,treasure4 7,the7 ,a ,manual of ,agriculture44444#ge ,,fresenius' ,qualitative ,chemical ,analysis44444#a #jj ,,hodge on the ,steam ,engine4 #dh plates44444#aj #jj ,,halleck',s ,elements of ,military ,art and ,science4 ,illus444444#a #ej ,,lefevre',s ,beauties of ,modern ,architecture4 #dh ,plates44444#f #jj ,,marshall',s ,farmer's ,hand ,book44444#a #jj ,,miles on the ,horse's ,foot44444#be ,,parnell',s ,chemistry applied to the ,arts44444#a #jj ,,stewart',s ,stable ,economy44444#a #jj ,,thomson on the ,food of ,animals and ,man44444#ej ,,ure',s ,dictionary of ,arts and ,sciences1 with ,supplement4 ,new edition4 #a vol444444#e #jj ,,wilson on ,healthy ,skin4 ,illus444444#a #jj ,,the ,,modern ,,housewife ,,or1 ,m,,nag,,re4 ,,comprising ,,nearly ,,one ,,thousand ,,receipts1 ,,for ,,the ,,economic ,,and ,,judicious ,,preparation ,,of ,,every ,,meal ,,of ,,the ,,day1 ,,with ,,those ,,of ,,the ,,nursery ,,and ,,sick ,,room1 ,,and ,,minute ,,directions ,,for ,,family ,,management ,,in ,,all ,,its ,,branches4 ,illustrated with ,engravings4 ,,by ,,alexis ,,soyer1 ,,author ,,of ,,the ,,gastronomic ,,regenerator4 ,,edited ,,by ,,an ,,american ,,housekeeper4 ,,new ,,york3 ,d4 ,,appleton ,,company1 #bjj ,,broadway4 ,,philadelphia3 ,g4 ,s4 ,,appleton1 #adf ,,chesnut ,,st4 #ahej4 ,,entered1 according to ,act of ,congress1 in the year #ahdi1 by ,d4 ,,appleton ,,company1 in the ,clerk's ,office of the ,district ,court for the ,southern ,district of ,new-,york4 ,,preface ,,by ,,the ,,editor4 ,in adapting ,m4 ,soyer's admirable receipt book to the use of ,american families1 ,i have not presumed to amend1 or attempted to improve upon the text of so accomplished a master of the art1 which may with entire propriety be called the preservative of all arts4 ,all that ,i have ventured to do has been to make a verbal correction here and there1 necessary to render the meaning of the author more plain2 to erase certain directions for cooking different kinds of game and fish unknown in the new world2 and to omit the purely local information1 and scraps of history1 which only increased the cost and bulk of the book1 without1 in any way1 adding to its value4 ,except in one instance1 nothing has been added2 for the object in republishing the ,,menag,,re1 was to furnish a new and valuable work on the preparation of food1 which should contain important receipts hitherto unknown4 ,every country must have its indigenous dishes1 and it is to be presumed that every ,american housekeeper likely to profit by ,m4 ,soyer's receipts1 will need no instruction in the art of preparing the many excellent dishes peculiar to the ,united ,states4 ,it is a vulgar error to suppose that ,french cookery is more costly and highly flavored than ,english2 an examination of the ,,menag,,re will abundantly prove that the reverse is the fact1 and that ,m4 ,soyer's system1 which has rendered him famous in ,europe1 is not only simple and economical1 but the best adapted to insuring the enjoyment of health1 the elevation of the mental faculties1 and converting the daily necessity of eating into a source of daily enjoyment4 ,m4 ,soyer's great work1 ,,the ,,gastronomic ,,regenerator1 was prepared for the highest classes of ,english society1 and public festivals2 but the ,,menag,,re is adapted to the wants and habits of the middle classes1 and1 as presented in the present edition1 calculated for the use of the great bulk of ,american families4 ,m4 ,soyer is the good genius of the kitchen2 although he is the renowned chef of one of the most sumptuous of the ,london ,club ,houses1 and the pet of aristocratic feeders1 he has labored continually to elevate the mind1 and better the condition of the poor by instructing them in the art of obtaining the greatest amount of nourishment and enjoyment from their food4 ,the dietetic maxims and culinary receipts of ,m4 ,soyer are not less needed in the ,united ,states than in ,england2 but for different reasons4 ,happily1 our countrymen do not suffer for lack of raw materials1 so much as for lack of cooks2 and1 in the ,modern ,housewife of ,m4 ,soyer1 our housekeepers will find a reliable guide and an invaluable friend4 ,new ,york1 ,december1 #ahdi4 ,,contents4 ,,page ,,introduction1 ,,dialogue ,,between ,,mrs4 ,b---- ,,and ,,mrs4 ,l----1 ,,her ,,friend ,,and ,,visitor1 #a ,,letter ,,no4 ,i41 #e ,,letter ,,no4 ,,ii41 #f ,,breakfasts1 #g ,,first ,,series ,,of ,,receipts1 #h ,,letter ,,no4 ,,iii41 #bf ,,early ,,luncheons1 #bg ,,letter ,,no4 ,,iv41 #bg ,,the ,,nursery ,,dinner1 #bh ,,letter ,,no4 ,v41 ib4 ,,comforts ,,for ,,invalids1 #cc ,,puddings ,,for ,,invalids1 #dg ,,poultry ,,for ,,invalids1 #ec ,,culinary ,,correspondence1 #ee ,,letter ,,no4 ,,vi41 ib4 ,,letter ,,no4 ,,vii41 #ef ,,letter ,,no4 ,,viii41 #eg ,,letter ,,no4 ,,ix41 #eh ,,letter ,,no4 ,x41 ib4 ,,letter ,,no4 ,,xi41 ib4 ,,roasting1 #ei ,,baking1 ,,boiling1 ,,stewing1 ,,braising1 #fj ,,frying1 #fa ,,sauteing1 #fb ,,broiling1 #fc ,,sauces1 #fd ,,soups1 #ge ,,fish1 #ic ,,fish ,,sauces1 #aaa ,,removes1 #aag ,,letter ,,no4 ,,xii41 #abj ,,poultry1 #adc ,,flancs1 #aeh ,,entr,,es1 ,,or ,,made ,,dishes1 #aeh ,,letter ,,no4 ,,xiii41 #agh ,,letter ,,no4 ,,xiv41 #aha ,,dishes ,,with ,,the ,,remains ,,of ,,lamb1 #ahd ,,eggs1 #baf ,,garniture ,,for ,,omelettes1 #bai ,,entries ,,of ,,game1 #bbj ,,roasts--,,second ,,course1 #bbg ,,savory ,,dishes #bcd ,,letter ,,no4 ,,xv41 #bdd ,,shell-,,fish1 #bej ,,vegetables1 #bec ,,of ,,different ,,sorts ,,of ,,pastry1 #bfh ,,jellies1 #bhf ,,puddings ,,in ,,moulds1 #bia ,,puddings ,,boiled ,,in ,,cloths1 #bic ,,plain ,,baked ,,puddings ,,in ,,dishes1 #bid ,,removes--,,second ,,course1 #bif ,,souffle1 #bii ,,dessert1 #cje ,,letter ,,no4 ,,xvi41 ib4 ,,compote1 #cjg ,,compotes ,,of ,,fruit ,,simplified1 #caj ,,salads ,,of ,,various ,,fruits1 #cba ,,letter ,,no4 ,,xvii41 #cbg ,,letter ,,no4 ,,xviii41 #ccb ,,beverages ,,for ,,evening ,,parties1 ib4 ,,letter ,,no4 ,,xix41 #ccd ,,conversation ,,on ,,household ,,affairs1 #ccf ,,bills ,,of ,,fare1 #cci ,,letter ,,no4 ,,xx4--,a ,,new ,,aliment1 #cde ,,carving1 #cdf ,,letter ,,no4 ,,xxi4--,,the ,,septuagenarian ,,epicure1 #cdh ,,index1 #cea ,,introduction4 ,in the following gossipping conversation between ,mrs4 ,b---- and ,mrs4 ,l----1 and in the two letters which follow1 ,m4 ,soyer explains the motive of the work2 and1 in a natural manner introduces the subject4--,,ed4 ,,dialogue ,,between ,,mrs4 ,b---- ,,and ,,mrs4 ,l----1 ,,her ,,friend ,,and ,,visitor4 ,mrs4 ,l4 ,i have now1 my dear ,mrs4 ,b41 been nearly a fortnight at your delightful ,villa1 and ,i must say1 with all truth1 that ,i never fared better in my life1 yet ,i am considered somewhat of an epicure1 as is likewise my husband2 but1 of course1 our means being rather limited1 we are obliged to live accordingly4 ,mrs4 ,b4 ,well1 so must we2 and ,i assure you that1 during the first few years of our marriage1 our pecuniary resources were but small1 but even then ,i managed my kitchen and housekeeping at so moderate an expense compared with some of our neighbors1 who lived more expensively1 but not so well as we did1 that1 when any of them dined with us1 they flattered me with the appellation of the ,model ,housekeeper1 and admired the comforts of our table1 but would leave with the impression that ,i must be the most extravagant of wives4 ,now1 believe me1 ,i have always prided myself1 whether having to provide for a ceremonious party or dining by ourselves1 to have everything properly done and served1 that1 if any friends should come in by accident or on business1 they were generally well pleased with our humble hospitality1 and that without extravagance1 as my husband is well convinced2 for when we dine with any acquaintance of ours he is very eager to persuade them to adopt my system of management2 for though he is no great judge of what is called the highest style of cookery1 yet he does not like to live badly at any time2 as he very justly says1 it matters not how simple the food1--a chop1 steak1 or a plain boiled or roast joint1 but let it be of good quality and properly cooked1 and every one who partakes of it will enjoy it4 ,mrs4 ,l4 ,nothing more true6 ,mrs4 ,b4 ,but since you talk of limited income and economy1 let me relate to you a conversation which occurred a few years ago between ,mr4 ,b4 and a friend of his1 who declared to him that his income would never allow him to live in such luxury1 which he called a comfortable extravagance4 ,extravagance6 exclaimed ,mr4 ,b41 if you have a few minutes to spare1 ,i will convince you of the contrary1 and prove to you that such an expression is very unjust1 if applied to my wife's management4 ,now1 to begin2 what sum should you suppose would cover our annual housekeeping expenditure1 living as we do1 in a style of which you so much approve1 but consider so extravagant8 there are ten of us in family1 viz41 myself and wife1 three children1 two female servants1 and three young men employed in my business1 and including our usual ,christmas party1 which1 of course you know1 7having participated in the last two71 besides two separate birthday parties of twenty each1 and three juvenile petits-soupers and dances for the children upon their natal anniversaries1 also a friend dropping in occasionally1 which is never less than once or twice a-week4--,well1 ,i do not know1 answered our friend2 but having nearly the same number to provide for1 and in a more humble way1 my expenses for housekeeping are never less than ---- per annum4--,less than what8 exclaimed ,mr4 ,b42 why1 my dear friend1 you must be mistaken2 at the same time ringing the bell4 ,i wish ,i were1 with all my heart1 was the reply1 as the servant entered the room2 ,jane1 said ,mr4 ,b41 ask your mistress to step this way for a few minutes2 ,i wish to look at her housekeeping book4 ,but being busy at the time in the kitchen1 ,i sent up a key for him to get it1 which happened to be a wrong one1 but1 upon discovering the mistake1 sent up the right one with an apology for not coming myself1 as ,i was superintending the cooking of some veal broth1 which the doctor had ordered for our poor little ,henry1 who was ill at the time4 ,well1 said his friend1 there is a wife for you2 ,i must confess mine can hardly find the way to the kitchen stairs4 ,now6 said my husband1 opening my desk1 and1 taking up my book1 he showed him the last year's expenditure1 which was ----4 ,no6 no6 that is impossible1 replied the other4 ,but1 said ,mr ,b41 there it is in black and white4 ,why1 good heavens6 exclaimed he1 without giving so many parties1 and also two less in family1 my expenditure is certainly greater4 ,to which ,mr4 ,b4 replied1 ,so ,i should imagine from the style in which ,i saw your table provided the few days when we were on a visit to your house2 therefore ,i am not in the least astonished4 ,here1 however1 is the account for the closing year just made up to the #bhth ,december1 #ahdh4 ,let us see what it amounts to1 probably to #ej or #fj more4 ,so1 so1 replied the other1 that is an increase2--,let it be so1 said ,mr4 ,b42 but you must remember that we are twelve months older1 and as our business increases1 so do we increase our comforts2 and this year ,mrs4 ,b41 with the children1 had a pretty little house at ,ramsgate for two months1 which will account for the greater part of it4 ,mrs4 ,l4 ,but1 my dear ,mrs4 ,b41 ,i am as much astonished as your friend could possibly have been4 ,i should1 however1 have liked you to explain the matter2 but here comes your husband1 who will probably initiate me in your culinary secrets4 ,good morning1 my dear ,mr4 ,b4 ,i have been talking to ,mrs4 ,b4 about her system of housekeeping1 who was relating to me a conversation you had with a gentleman1 who was surprised with its economy4 ,i am also surprised1 and should like to take a few leaves out of your most excellent book1 if you will allow me4 ,mr4 ,b4 ,certainly1 my dear madam2 in my wife1 without flattering her too much1 you see almost an accomplished woman 7in hearing such praise1 ,mrs4 ,b4 retired1 saying1 ,how foolish you talk1 ,richard72 she speaks two or three different languages tolerably well1 and1 as an amateur1 is rather proficient in music1 but her parents1 very wisely considering household knowledge to be of the greater importance1 made her first acquainted with the keys of the store-room before those of the piano2 that is the only secret1 dear madam2 and this is the explanation that ,i gave to my friend1 who thought it a good jest and one of truth4 ,i told him to do the same by his two daughters1 which would not only make them more happy through life1 but transmit that happiness to their posterity1 by setting an example worthy of being followed4 ,i always say1 give me a domesticated wife1 and with my industry ,i would not change my position for a kingdom2 ,very true1 very true1 was my friend's answer1 and we then parted4 ,i have never seen him since nor his wife1 who was probably offended at the economical propositions of her husband2 for nothing1 you are well aware1 is more common than for people to be offended when told the truth respecting themselves2 or perhaps she was too advanced in years to think of changing her ideas of housekeeping4 ,i see1 my dear ,mrs4 ,l41 the ,brougham is waiting at the gate to convey you to the railway2 allow me to see you safe to the station2 you will not have many minutes to spare1 for the train will shortly be up4 ,about an hour after the above conversation1 ,mrs4 ,l4 was seen entering her cottage at ,oatlands1 fully resolved to follow as closely as possible the economic management of ,mrs4 ,b42 but a little reflection soon made her perceive that she possessed only the theory1 and was sadly deficient in the practice3 she then determined to beg of her friend a few receipts in writing1 and immediately dispatched the following letter3-- ,from ,mrs4 ,l--- to ,mrs4 ,b----4 ,oatlands ,cottage2 ,jan4 #ast1 #ahdi4 ,,my ,,dear ,,hortense1--,upon my arrival at home1 ,i am happy to say that ,i found all quite well1 and delighted to see me1 after 7to them7 so long an absence as a fortnight1 which my husband was gallant enough to say appeared months2 but to myself the time appeared to pass very swiftly2 for1 indeed1 every day ,i felt so much more interested in watching closely how well you managed your household affairs1 that1 believe me1 you have quite spoiled me1 especially with your recherch style of cookery1 which even now ,i cannot make out how you could do it at such moderate expense3 and1 apropos of cooking1 ,mr4 ,l41 expecting me home to dinner1 had1 ,i have no doubt1 a long interview and discussion with ,cook respecting the bill of fare4 ,well1 sir1 ,i will suppose she said1 what can be better than a fine fat goose1 stuffed with sage and ingyons2 we have a very fine 'un hanging in the larder4 7,you must observe1 dear1 that my cook is plain in every way47 ,a very excellent notion that1 ,cook2 nothing can be better than a good goose2 was no doubt1 my husband's answer1 who1 although very fond of a good dinner1 cannot endure the trouble of ordering it4 ,well1 then1 here ,i am in my little drawing-room 7the window slightly open71 enjoying the fresh country air1 which seems to have been amalgamated with a strong aroma from the aforesaid goose1 especially the sage and onions2 and ,i am almost certain that the inseparable applesauce is burnt or upset on the stove1 from the brown smoke now ascending from the grating over the kitchen window4 ,this style is now to me quite unbearable1 and ,i mean to have quite a reform in my little establishment1 and first of all to bring up my daughter in the way recommended by ,mr4 ,b4 to his friend1 to make her more domesticated than ,i am myself1 as ,i begin to perceive that a knowledge of household affairs is as much required as intellectual education2 and1 for my part1 ,i have come to the determination of adopting your system of management as closely as possible2 but first1 you must know1 that1 without your scientific advice1 it will be totally impossible2 therefore ,i beg to propose 7if you can afford the time7 that you will1 by writing1 give me the description how you lay out your breakfast-table1 with the addition of a few receipts for the making of rolls and the other breakfast bread1 which ,i so much enjoyed while with you2 even how to make toast1 and more especially how you make coffee1 chocolate1 cocoa 7tea1 of course1 ,i know74 ,and should this meet your approbation1 ,i mean to make a little journal1 which may some day or other be useful to our families and friends4 ,until ,i hear from you ,i shall be waiting with anxiety for your decision upon this important and domestic subject4 ,yours very sincerely1 ,,eloise4 ,from ,mrs4 ,b----1 in reply4 ,bifrons ,villa2 ,jan4 #c;d1 #ahdi4 ,,my ,,dear ,,eloise1--,in answer to yours1 ,i agree1 with the greatest pleasure1 to contribute towards your domesticated idea1 which1 ,i must say1 is very original1 and may1 as you observe1 prove useful2 but why should we confine our culinary journal to breakfast only8 why not go through the different meals of the day8 that is1 after breakfast1 the luncheon2 then the nursery-dinner at ,one2 and here it strikes me that1 in that series1 we might introduce some receipts1 to be called ,comforts for ,invalids2 even our servants' dinners and teas2 then the early dinner at two or three for people in business1 the parlor-dinner at six1 the coffee after dinner1 and even suppers for a small ball or evening party2 but all on a moderate scale1 leaving the aristocratic style entirely to its proper sphere4 99 99 99 99 99 ,to show my approbation of your idea1 ,i enclose herewith the first receipt1 ,how to make ,toast4 ,,breakfasts4 ,when we first commenced housekeeping1 we were six in family1 five of whom breakfasted together1 the three young men in the shop1 ,mr4 ,b----1 and myself4 ,the cloth was laid by the servant girl at half-past seven precisely2 at ten minutes to eight ,i used to make tea1 and at eight o'clock we were seated at breakfast1 which was composed merely of bread and butter at discretion1 fresh water cresses when plentiful1 or sometimes boiled eggs1 and for variation1 once a week1 coffee1 and if in the winter1 we had toast1 which ,i never suffered any servant to prepare more than five minutes before we were seated1 for1 if standing any time1 the dry toast becomes tough1 and the buttered very greasy1 and consequently unpalatable1 as well as indigestible4 ,twenty minutes only was the time allowed for breakfast1 after which the table was cleared1 the cloth carefully folded and put by for the next morning1 for we kept a separate one for dinner1 and imposed the fine of a half-penny upon any one who should spill their tea or coffee over the cloth by carelessness4 ,such was always my plan when in business2 for you must know as well as myself1 it is not only the expense of the washing1 but the continual wear and tear of the linen1 which make such frequent washings so ruinous1 but my cloth used always to look clean1 and ,i am confident that not less than five pounds a-year were saved on that very trifling matter1 and you know we thought as much then of five pounds as we perhaps now do of twenty4 ,before partaking of a breakfast1 you must provide the materials 7which ,i always select of the best quality71 and require to know how to prepare them4 ,i shall1 therefore1 give you a series of every description of articles which may properly be partaken of at the breakfast-table4 ,,first ,,series ,,of ,,receipts4 ,perhaps some housekeepers may laugh at the presumption of ,m4 ,soyer in attempting to give a formal receipt for so trifling a matter as making a piece of toast4 ,but1 in ,cookery1 there are no trifles4 ,every preparation of food1 however simple1 requires thought1 care1 and experience4 ,among the unpleasantnesses of our breakfast-tables1 there are none more common than poor toast4--,,ed4 #a4 ,toast4--,procure a nice square loaf of bread that has been baked one or two days previously 7for new bread cannot be cut1 and would eat very heavy71 then with a sharp knife cut off the bottom crust very evenly1 and then as many slices as you require1 about a quarter of an inch in thickness 7,i generally use a carving-knife for cutting bread for toast1 being longer in the blade1 it is more handy1 and less liable to waste the bread72 contrive to have rather a clear fire2 place a slice of the bread upon a toasting-fork1 about an inch from one of the sides1 hold it a minute before the fire1 then turn it1 hold it before the fire another minute1 by which time the bread will be thoroughly hot1 then begin to move it gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a yellowish-brown color1 when again turn it1 toasting the other side in the same manner2 then lay it upon a hot plate1 have some fresh or salt butter 7which must not be too hard1 as pressing it upon the toast would make it heavy71 spread a piece1 rather less than an ounce1 over1 and cut into four or six pieces2 should you require six such slices for a numerous family1 about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for the whole2 but cut each slice into pieces as soon as buttered1 and pile them lightly upon the plate or dish you intend to serve it4 ,this way you will find a great improvement upon the old system1 as often in cutting through four or five slices with a bad knife1 you squeeze all the butter out of the upper one1 and discover the under one1 at the peril of its life1 swimming in an ocean of butter at the bottom of the dish4 ,n4,b4 ,the warming of the bread gradually through1 on both sides1 is a very great improvement upon the quality of the toast2 it may give a trifle more trouble1 but still it is quicker done1 and much lighter4 ,all kinds of toast require to be done the same way1 but if to be served under a bird1 eggs1 or kidneys1 it requires to be toasted drier4 ,being in every way an economist1 ,i have generally saved the remnants of the loaf that have become too dry to be eaten as bread1 and by just dipping them in warm water1 toasting them gradually1 and buttering them1 ,i have generally found that they have been eaten in preference1 but their being stale is a secret of my own1 which1 if divulged1 would prevent their ever being eaten after4 #b4 ,dry ,toast4--,ought not to be toasted until quite ready to serve2 when done1 place it in a toast-rack1 or standing upon its edges1 one piece resting against another2 any kind of toast that has been made half an hour is not worth eating4 #c4 ,to toast ,muffins 7for ,receipt1 see ,no4 #f47--;,just open1 half an inch deep1 the sides of the muffins1 exactly in the centre1 with a knife1 then put your toasting-fork in the middle of the bottom1 hold it a little distance from the fire1 until partly warmed through1 when turn it and put it again to the fire until it becomes lightly toasted1 when again turn it to toast the other side2 when done1 pull it open1 spread a thin layer of butter on each side1 close them together2 lay them upon a plate1 then with a sharp knife divide them across the middle1 and serve very hot4 ,if more than one muffin is required1 cut them all separately1 and pile them lightly one upon another1 on the plate2 when well prepared1 they are1 in my opinion1 a very great luxury1 obtainable at a trifling expense4 #d4 ,to toast ,crumpets4--,crumpets stand lower in the general estimation of the public1 probably from not being so distingu1 and having the misfortune to be cheaper than their sister muffins2 but1 for all that1 the poor ought never to be forgotten1 and a crumpet toasted as follows is not to be despised4 ,choose your crumpets fresh if possible1 though they are not bad after having been made three or four days2 toast them by warming both sides first1 like muffins1 then give them a nice light brown color on each side1 lay them in a plate1 and spread some rather soft butter lightly upon each side2 cut in halves with a sharp knife1 and serve2 half a pat of butter to each crumpet is quite sufficient4 ,if you have several to serve1 lay them separately upon a large hot dish2 some people lay them one upon the other1 which is a very bad plan1 as it causes the under ones to eat like a piece of dough1 and such food cannot be wholesome4 ,crumpets require to be toasted rather quick4 #e4 ,to make ,rolls and other ,breakfast ,bread4--,put four pounds of flour into an earthen pan1 make a hole in the centre1 in which put three parts of a pint of warm water1 to which you add a gill of white brewer's yeast1 free from bitter1 mix a little flour to form a leaven1 which set in a warm place to rise 7it must be allowed to remain until the leaven has risen and begun to fall71 then add a little salt and a pint of warm milk1 form the whole into a flexible dough1 which keep in a warm place for another hour2 it is then ready1 and may be moulded into the form of rolls1 twists1 little crusty loaves1 or any shapes most pleasing for the breakfast-table4 #f4 ,to make ,muffins4--,mix a quart of warm water in which you have dissolved a quarter of a pound of ,german yeast1 with sufficient flour to form a stiffish batter1 which let remain in a warm place four hours1 then stir the mixture down1 and break it into pieces weighing a quarter of a pound each1 which mould round with your hands1 and put into wooden trays containing a round bed of flour for each2 let them remain in a warm place two hours to prove1 when have your muffin-stove hot2 have a round piece of iron2 place on the fire to get hot2 set the muffins upon it1 and when nicely risen1 turn them gently over1 baking them upon the stove until sufficiently set1 when they are done2 they will take about ten minutes baking if the stove is at the proper heat1 which is known by throwing a little flour on it and becoming brown4 ,muffins may also be made of brewer's yeast1 but then they would require longer proving1 and great care must be taken that the yeast be not bitter4 #g4 ,to make ,crumpets4--,mix a gill of brewer's yeast1 free from bitter1 with two quarts of water1 just lukewarm1 to which add sufficient flour to make a thinnish batter1 and let it stand six hours in a warm place1 when stir it well with a wooden spoon1 and let it remain four hours longer2 have the muffin-stove hot1 upon which lay a number of tin hoops1 the size of crumpets1 pour a small ladleful of the batter into each hoop1 and when the top is covered with small bladders1 turn them quickly over 7hoops and all7 with a large palate knife1 and in about five minutes afterwards they will be sufficiently baked4 #h4 ,rusks4--,put three pounds of flour upon a dresser1 make a hole in the middle1 into which put two ounces of ,german yeast1 dissolved in a pint of warm water1 mix a little of the flour in1 and leave it half an hour in a warm place to rise1 then add two ounces of powdered sugar1 and a quarter of a pound of butter1 dissolved in half a pint of warm water2 mix the whole into a dough1 and let it remain in a warm place until well risen1 when work it down with the hands1 divide it in three pieces1 each of which form into a long roll about two inches in thickness1 place them upon a buttered baking-sheet1 four inches apart1 and put them in a warm place to prove1 occasionally moistening the tops with milk2 bake them in a moderate oven2 when cold1 cut them in slices the thickness of a penny piece1 which lay upon a clean baking-sheet1 and put into a warm oven1 when well browned upon one side1 turn them over1 put them again into the oven until the other side is browned1 when they are done and ready for use4 #i4 ,tops and ,bottoms4--,make a dough exactly as described in the last1 but using only half the butter2 have a deep-edged baking-sheet well buttered1 and when the dough is ready1 turn it on to a dresser1 well floured2 divide into small pieces the size of walnuts1 which mould into round balls1 and place close together upon the baking-sheet2 put them in a warm place to prove1 and bake well in a moderate oven2 when cold1 divide and cut each one in halves 7making a top and bottom7 which brown in the oven as directed for rusks4 #aj4 ,buns4--,put three pounds of flour in an earthen pan1 make a hole in the middle1 in which put two ounces of ,german yeast1 dissolved in three parts of a pint of warm water1 and stir in a little of the flour1 forming a thinnish batter1 let it remain in a warm place nearly an hour1 until well fermented1 when add half a pound of sugar1 a few currants1 and half a pound of butter1 dissolved in nearly a pint of warm milk1 mix the whole well together1 making a soft but dry dough2 let it remain in a warm place until it rises very light1 when turn it out of the pan on to a board2 work it well with the hands1 shaking flour over lightly1 then mould it into small round balls1 double the size of walnuts1 which place upon a buttered baking-sheet1 four inches apart2 moisten the tops with milk2 put them in a warm place to prove1 not1 however1 permitting them to crack1 and bake them in a hot oven4 #aa4--;,brioche ,rolls4--,put four pounds of flour upon a dresser1 one pound of which put on one side1 make a hole in the middle into which pour nearly three parts of a pint of warm water1 in which you have dissolved an ounce of ,german yeast2 mix it into a stiff but delicate paste1 which roll up into a ball3 cut an incision across it1 and lay it in a basin well floured1 in a warm place1 until becoming very light1 then make a large hole in the centre of the three pounds of flour1 into which put half an ounce of salt1 two pounds of fresh butter1 half a gill of water1 and sixteen eggs1 mix it into a rather softish flexible paste1 which press out flat1 lay the leaven upon it1 folding it over and working with the hands until well amalgamated1 flour a clean cloth1 fold the paste in it and let remain all night4 ,in the morning mould them into small rolls2 put them upon a baking-sheet1 and bake in a moderate oven4 ,unless your breakfast party is very large1 half the above quantity would be sufficient2 but these rolls being quite a luxury1 ,i only make them upon very especial occasions4 #ab4 ,how to choose ,eggs4--,new-laid eggs should not be used until they have been laid about eight or ten hours1 for that part which constitutes the white is not properly set before that time1 and does not until then obtain their delicate flavor2 that which is termed milk in eggs being1 according to my opinion1 very insipid2 but that entirely depends upon fancy4 ,nothing being more offensive than eggs in a state of decomposition1 it is very important that every person should know how to detect them 7especially in the winter71 if1 by shaking them1 they sound hollow1 you may be certain they are not new-laid1 and not fit to be boiled for breakfast3 but1 if broken1 they may prove fit for any other culinary purpose1 except for souffls1 for which eggs must be very fresh4 ,the safest way to try them is to hold them to the light1 forming a focus with your hand2 should the shell be covered with small dark spots1 they are very doubtful1 and should be broken separately in a cup1 and each egg smelt previous to using2 if1 however1 in looking at them1 you see no transparency in the shells1 you may be sure they are rotten and only fit to be thrown away2 the most precise way is1 to look at them by the light of a candle2 if quite fresh1 there are no spots upon the shells1 and they have a brilliant light yellow tint2 in the spring of the year1 it would be scarcely excusable to use any eggs that are not quite fresh4 #ac4 ,eggs for ,breakfast1--plain boiled4--,put about a pint of water to boil in any kind of small stewpan 7or saucepan7 over the fire2 when boiling1 put in two or three fresh eggs1 gently1 with a spoon1 being particular not to crack them or allow them to boil too fast1 or the interior of the eggs would partly escape before they were set1 giving them an unsightly appearance1 and entirely prevent their cooking regularly3 three minutes is sufficient to cook a full-sized egg1 but if below the average size1 two minutes and a half will suffice4 #ad4 ,eggs au ,beurre3 a new method4--,let the eggs boil six minutes instead of three1 then take them out1 dip them for two seconds in cold water1 crack and peel off the shells1 and lay them in a hot plate 7they will remain quite whole if properly done71 cut each egg in halves lengthwise1 spread a little fresh butter and sprinkle a little salt over the interior1 and eat them very hot4 ,eggs done in this manner are delicate and digestible4 #ae4 ,to boil ,eggs hard4--,never boil eggs for salads1 sauces1 or any other purposes1 more than ten minutes1 and when done place them in a basin of cold water for five minutes to cool3 take off their shells1 and use them when required4 ,nothing is more indigestible than an egg too hard-boiled4 #af4 ,poached ,eggs4--,put a pint of water in a stewpan1 with four teaspoonfuls of vinegar and half a teaspoonful of salt1 place it over the fire1 and when boiling1 break your eggs into it as near the surface of the water as possible1 let them boil gently about three minutes2 have rather a thin piece of toast1 as described 7,no4 #a71 upon a dish1 take the eggs out carefully with a small slice1 lay the slice with the eggs upon a cloth for a second to drain the water from them1 set them carefully upon the toast1 and serve very hot4 ,if the eggs are fresh they will look most inviting1 but the way of breaking and boiling them must be most carefully attended to1 and care should be taken not to boil too many together2 if the yolks separate from the white it may be presumed that the egg is not fresh1 but it may be eatable1 for the same thing may happen through awkwardness in poaching4 ,again1 the toast upon which they are served may be buttered either with plain or matre d'htel butter1 or two small pats of butter may be melted1 without boiling it1 and poured over1 or a little melted butter sauce1 or the same with the addition of a little matre d'htel butter poured over when just upon the point of boiling1 or a little anchovy butter instead of the other2 thus you may be able to indulge in nice little luxuries at a trifling expense4 #ag4 ,toast and ,eggs4--,break three eggs into a small stewpan1 add a saltspoonful of salt1 a quarter of that quantity of pepper1 and two ounces of fresh butter 7the fresher the better71 set the stewpan over a moderate fire1 and stir the eggs round with a wooden spoon1 being careful to keep every particle in motion1 until the whole has become a smooth and delicate thickish substance2 have ready a convenient-sized crisp piece of toast1 pour the eggs upon it1 and serve immediately4 #ah4 ,eggs sur le ,plat4--,lightly butter a small oval dish1 upon which break two1 three1 or more eggs without breaking the yolks1 season lightly with a little white pepper and salt1 put a few small pieces of butter here and there upon them1 and then set the dish in a small oven1 where let it remain until the whites become set1 but by no means hard1 and serve hot2 if the oven is moderately hot1 they will take about ten minutes2 if no oven1 put the dish before the fire1 turning it round now and then until the eggs are set regular4 ,this is a most excellent dish4 #ai4 ,omelettes may also be served for breakfast with great advantage1 being very relishing1 especially the omelettes aux fines herbes1 au lard1 and aux champignons1 but as they are considered to belong to the dinner1 they will be given in that series of receipts4 #bj4 ,herring ,toast ,sandwich4--,choose a bloater for this purpose not too dry1 which split in two1 cutting it down the back2 lay them upon a plate and pour a pint of boiling water over2 let them soak five minutes1 when lay them upon a cloth to dry2 then broil them very gradually upon a gridiron2 when well done1 which will be in about four or five minutes1 have ready two thin slices of toast1 made very crisp1 butter them lightly1 then take away all the bones from the herrings1 lay the fleshy parts equally upon one piece of toast and cover with the other3 serve very hot4 #ba4 ,toast and ,eggs with ,herring4--,prepare your toast and eggs as directed 7,no4 #ag71 but previous to pouring the eggs over1 lay the flesh of a herring as directed in the last1 and pour the eggs over that4 ,herrings upon toast1 with a layer of mashed potatoes over1 is also very good4 ,dried haddock may also be served the same1 as also may sardines1 but they being ready-cooked1 are laid over cold without splitting them2 they are very delicious2 if wanted hot1 set them a few minutes before the fire4 #bb4 ,fish for ,breakfast1--,bloated ,herrings4--,they require to be freshly salted1 for if dry they are quite rank and unpalatable2 scrape them lightly with a knife1 and wipe them well with a cloth2 pass the point of a knife down the back from head to tail1 making an incision about a quarter of an inch in depth2 place them upon the gridiron over a sharp fire2 they will take about six minutes to cook1 of course turning them occasionally2 when done1 put them upon a hot dish1 open the backs1 and place half a small pat of butter in each2 again close them3 cooked this way they are delicious1 especially if they are real bloaters4 ,another way is to cut them quite open and broil them flat upon the gridiron1 and serve quite plain2 this way they are done much more quickly4 ,or1 if nice and fresh1 oil half a sheet of white paper for every fish1 in which fold them and broil fifteen minutes over a slow fire1 turning them over three or four times1 and serve in the papers4 ,should you have any that have become dry1 soak them about twenty minutes in lukewarm water1 and proceed as first directed4 7,same process will do for red herrings47 #bc4 ,dried ,haddock4--,a very excellent thing for breakfast1 but they never ought to be cooked whole1 for one side being thinner than the other is of course dried up before the other is much more than half done1 especially the larger ones2 the better plan is to cut them in halves lengthwise1 put them upon the gridiron over a moderate fire1 keeping them frequently turned1 and taking the thinnest half off first2 the thickest will require about ten minutes to cook it thoroughly2 when done1 spread a pat of fresh butter over1 and serve upon a very hot dish4 ,haddocks may also be skinned and broiled in oiled paper1 but of course would take rather more time in cooking4 #bd4 ,whitings4--,of all the modes of preparing and dressing whitings for breakfast ,i cannot but admire and prize the system pursued by the ,scotch1 which renders them the most light1 wholesome1 and delicious food that could possibly be served for breakfast3 their method is1 to obtain the fish as fresh as possible1 clean and skin them1 take out the eyes1 cover the fish over with salt1 immediately after which take them out and shake off the superfluous salt1 pass a string through the eye-holes1 and hang them up to dry in a passage or some place where there is a current of air2 the next morning take them off1 just roll them lightly in a little flour1 broil them gently over a slow fire1 and serve very hot1 with a small piece of fresh butter rubbed over each1 or serve quite dry if preferable4 #be4 ,slips or ,small ,soles4--,when cleaned1 season them with a little pepper and salt1 dip lightly into flour1 and broil them slowly over a moderate fire about ten minutes1 or according to the size2 when done1 place them upon a hot dish1 pour two tablespoonfuls of cream over and serve immediately4 ,they may of course be served dry1 but pouring the cream over is a new and very good idea4 ,nothing but small white fish could be tolerated for breakfast4 #bf4 ,sprats when nicely cooked are very commendable4 ,dip them lightly into flour1 and place them upon a gridiron over a slow fire2 when about half done1 turn them2 when done 7which would be in about five minutes from the time you put them on71 serve dry in a very hot dish4 #bg4 ,meat for ,breakfast1--,sheep's ,kidneys4--,procure as many as you may require for your party1 about one each is generally sufficient2 be sure that they are fresh1 which any person can ascertain by smelling1 if not able to judge by their appearance2 cut them open very evenly lengthwise1 down to the root1 but not to separate them2 then have some small iron or wooden skewers1 upon which thread the kidneys quite flat1 by running the skewer twice through each kidney1 that is1 under the white part2 season them rather highly with pepper and salt1 and place them upon a gridiron 7the inside downwards71 over a sharp fire2 in three minutes turn them over1 and in about six they will be sufficiently done2 then take them off the skewers1 place them in a very hot dish1 and serve immediately4 ,in opening them be careful to cut them in the centre1 for should one half be thicker than the other1 one would be dried before the other was sufficiently cooked4 #bh4 ,kidneys on ,toast4--,prepare the kidneys precisely as in the last1 but when done have ready a piece of hot toast1 which butter lightly2 lay the kidneys upon it2 have ready a small piece of butter1 to which you have added a little pepper1 salt1 and the juice of half a lemon2 place a small piece in the centre of each kidney1 and when melted serve4 #bi4 ,kidney bread-crumbed1 la ,matre d',htel4--,prepare the kidneys as before1 and when upon the skewer1 have ready upon a plate an egg well beat up with a fork2 season the kidneys with a little salt and pepper1 dip them into the egg1 then lightly cover them with bread-crumbs1 put them upon the gridiron1 which place over a moderate fire1 broil them about ten minutes1 turning them when half done1 have ready a little matre d'htel butter1 put about half an ounce in each kidney1 and serve immediately upon a very hot dish2 by the time it gets upon the table the butter will be melted1 and they eat very relishing2 dressed this way they may also be served upon toast4 #cj4 ,sautd ,kidneys4--,should you not have a fire fit for broiling1 put an ounce of butter into a saut-pan 7which of course must be very clean71 cut the kidney in halves lengthwise2 and when the butter is melted1 lay them in1 the flat side downwards1 having previously well seasoned them with pepper and salt2 set the pan on a moderate fire three minutes1 then turn them1 place them again upon the fire until done2 when have ready a piece of dry toast1 which place upon a hot dish1 pour the kidneys with the butter and gravy over and serve very hot1 care must be taken in sauting that the butter does not become burnt4 ,another way is to sprinkle about a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots1 or onions1 over them whilst being sautd2 this materially changes the flavor1 and meets the approbation of many4 ,for the cooking of mutton chops1 steaks1 cutlets1 broiled fowl1 broiled bones1 or remnants of poultry or game1 ,i must refer you to where they are given as receipts for the dinner-table4 #ca4 ,bacon and ,ham1 how to choose both fit for broiling4--,ham for broiling ought not to be too old or too dry1 it would perhaps eat rank3 nothing requires more care than broiling4 ,either get a slice of ham weighing a quarter of a pound or two ounces1 which lay on your gridiron2 put them over the fire2 it will take perhaps five minutes1 if the fire is good1 and more1 of course1 if slow1 but in that short space of time turn them three or four times1 and it is done4 ,proceed the same if you want to serve it with poached eggs1 but be careful that the eggs be ready at the same time as the bacon or ham1 or both would eat badly4 ,if you happen to have a whole ham by you for that purpose only1 begin to cut the slices in a slanting direction and the same thickness1 and proceed to the end of the ham with the remainder2 it will prove more profitable to broil with greens1 peas1 broad beans1 c41 c4 ,to saut it1 put a little butter or good fat in the pan2 set it on the fire with your slice in it1 saut very gently1 turning very often1 and serve it on very thin toast4 #cb4 ,ham and ,eggs4--,while your ham is doing1 break two fresh eggs in the pan1 season slightly with salt and pepper1 set it before the fire till the eggs are delicately done1 and slip them whole carefully into your dish1 without breaking the yolk4 #cc4 ,bacon4--,the streaky part of a thick flank of bacon is to be preferred2 cut nice slices not above a quarter of an inch thick1 take off the rind1 put to broil on the gridiron over a clear fire1 turn it three or four times in the space of five minutes2 this will be all the cooking required3 serve it very hot4 ,though this is the best part1 the whole of the bacon is still good1 especially if not rank1 which can be easily detected by its yellowish color3 if too dry or salt1 after it has been cut in slices1 dip it into a little vinegar and water three or four times1 and saut as usual1 it will make it softer and less salt3 serve as usual4 ,if any remain after a dinner of boiled bacon1 it is also very good broiled or fried for next day's breakfast4 #cd4 ,sausages4--,sausages are very frequently esteemed for breakfast4 ,by all means1 never use them1 except you are confident that they are fresh4 ,the skin must be transparent1 that the meat should be seen through2 they keep good two or three days in a cold place in summer1 nearly a week in winter 7with care74 ,for the receipt how to make them in the homely way1 see future letter4 #ce4 ,sausages1 how to cook them4--,prick them with a pin all round about twenty times1 put them on the gridiron over a gentle fire1 turn three or four times1 by doing which you will have them a very nice yellow color2 dish them1 and serve them very hot4 #cf4 ,sautd ,sausages4--,if your fire smokes1 it is preferable to saut them2 put some butter in the pan1 with four sausages2 after you have pricked them as before-mentioned1 saut gently1 a few minutes will do them1 turn them often2 in many instances a thin slice of bread sautd in the fat they have produced is a great improvement2 save the fat1 as it is always useful in a kitchen4 ,in case you are in a hurry to do them1 throw them into hot water for one minute previously to their being broiled or sautd2 they will then be the sooner cooked1 and even eat rather more relishing to a delicate stomach1 having extracted the oil from the skin2 they may also be fried in the frying-pan4 #cg4 ,black ,puddings1 broiled4--,make about six or eight incisions through the skin with a knife1 in a slanting way1 on each side of the pudding2 put it on the gridiron for about eight minutes1 on rather a brisk fire1 turn it four times in that space of time1 and serve it broiling hot4 ,i should recommend those who are fond of black puddings to partake of no other beverage than tea or coffee1 as cocoa or chocolate would be a clog to the stomach4 ,in ,france they partake of white wine for breakfast1 which accounts for the great consumption of black pudding4 ,now really this is a very favorite dish with epicures1 but ,i never should recommend it to a delicate stomach4 ,,on ,,coffee4--,coffee1 which has now come so generally into use1 originally came from ,arabia1 where it has been known from time immemorial1 but was brought into use in ,england in the year #afec2 as it is not generally known how it was introduced1 ,i will give you the account of it from ,houghton's ,collection1 #afih4 ,it appears that a ,mr4 ,daniel ,edwards1 an ,english ,merchant of ,smyrna1 brought with him to this country a ,greek of the name of ,pasqua1 in #afeb1 who made his coffee2 this ,mr4 ,edwards married one ,alderman ,hodges's daughter1 who lived in ,walbrook1 and set up ,pasqua for a coffee-man in a shed in the churchyard in ,st4 ,michael1 ,cornhill1 which is now a scrivener's brave-house1 when1 having great custom1 the ale-sellers petitioned the ,lord ,mayor against him1 as being no freeman4 ,this made ,alderman ,hodges join his coachman1 ,bowman1 who was free1 as ,pasqua's partner2 but ,pasqua1 for some misdemeanor1 was forced to run the country1 and ,bowman1 by his trade and a contribution of #ajjj sixpences1 turned the shed to a house4 ,bowman's apprentices were first1 ,john ,painter1 then ,humphrey1 from whose wife ,i had this account4 ,having examined the renter churchwarden's book of ,st4 ,michael1 ,cornhill1 ,i find that the house or shed ,bowman built is now part of the ,jamaica ,coffee-,house2 it was rebuilt by ,bowman1 after the fire1 in #affg4 ,it is a very remarkable fact that but few persons in ,england know how to make good coffee1 although so well supplied with the first quality of that delicious berry2 but1 by way of contrast1 ,i must say that the middle classes of ,france are quite as ignorant of the method of making tea4 ,i remember1 upon one occasion1 whilst staying at ,havre with ,mr4 ,b41 where we were upon a visit at the house of one of his agents1 who invited a few of his friends to meet us at a tea-party l',anglaise1 as they used to call it1 about an hour previous to tea1 and previous to the arrival of the guests1 ,i was walking upon the lawn before the house1 when my attention was attracted by a cloud of steam issuing from the kitchen-window1 smelling most powerfully of tea3 my curiosity led me to the kitchen1 where ,i found the cook busily engaged making cocoa and most delicious coffee1 but preparing the tea in a ridiculous fashion1 the leaves of which were in an awful state of agitation1 attempting as it were to escape from an earthen pot at the side of the fire1 in which the delicious soup we had for dinner was made a few hours previously4 7,see ,pot-au-,feu47 ,my dear girl1 said ,i 7in ,french71 what process do you call that of making tea8 it never ought to be boiled4 ,i beg your pardon1 ,madame1 says she1 master and mistress like it well done1 and it will be another short half-hour before it is properly cooked 7ce sera alors copieux74 ,you are decidedly wrong1 said ,i1 and ,i shall be most happy to show you the way we make it in ,england4 ,yes1 ,i know what you mean1 ,madame1 replied she2 ,i used to make it that way before1 but no one liked it1 that is1 to boil it one hour in a copper-pan over a charcoal fire4 ,upon which ,i retired1 making a most comical grimace1 to refrain from laughing at her still more ridiculous fashion4 ,you must1 however1 observe that this occurred nearly twelve years ago1 and ,i have no doubt but a reform has taken place since then by the continual traffic of the ,english through that part of the country4 ,i must say1 with respect to ourselves1 we do not make quite such a blunder respecting coffee1 but still our middle classes very seldom enjoy the aroma of that delicious beverage1 which should be made as follows3 ,choose the coffee of a very nice brown color1 but not black 7which would denote that it was burnt1 and impart a bitter flavor72 grind it at home if possible1 as you may then depend upon the quality2 if ground in any quantity1 keep it in a jar hermetically sealed4 ,to make a pint1 put two ounces into a stewpan1 or small iron or tin saucepan1 which set dry upon a moderate fire1 stirring the coffee round with a wooden spoon continually until it is quite hot through1 but not in the least burnt2 should the fire be very fierce1 warm it by degrees1 taking it off every now and then until hot 7which would not be more than two minutes71 when pour over a pint of boiling water1 cover close1 and let it stand by the side of the fire 7but not to boil7 for five minutes1 when strain it through a cloth or a piece of thick gauze1 rinse out the stewpan1 pour the coffee 7which will be quite clear7 back into it1 place it upon the fire1 and1 when nearly boiling1 serve with hot milk if for breakfast1 but with a drop of cold milk or cream if for dinner4 ,to prove the simplicity of this mode of making coffee1 ,i shall here give a repetition of the receipt as it actually is3 #ch4 ,put two ounces of ground coffee into a stewpan1 which set upon the fire1 stirring the powder round with a spoon until quite hot1 when pour over a pint of boiling water2 cover over closely for five minutes1 when pass it through a cloth1 warm again1 and serve4#a ,the foregoing proportions would make coffee good enough for any person1 but more or less coffee could be used1 if required2 the cloth through which it is passed should be immediately washed and put by for the next occasion4 ,a hundred cups of coffee could be made as here directed in half an hour1 by procuring a pan sufficiently large1 and using the proper proportions of coffee and water1 passing it afterwards through a large cloth or jelly-bag4 #ci4 ,coffee1 ,french fashion4--,to a pint of coffee1 made as before directed1 add a pint of boiling milk1 warm both together until nearly boiling1 and serve4 ,the ,french never use it any other way for breakfast4 #dj4 ,white ,coffee1 a new style4--,put two ounces of unground coffee1 slightly roasted1 into a clean stewpan1 which set upon a moderate fire1 slowly warming the coffee through1 shaking the stewpan round every half-minute2 when very hot1 which you will perceive by the smoke arising from it1 pour over half a pint of boiling water1 cover the stewpan well1 and let it infuse by the side of the fire for fifteen minutes1 then add half a pint of boiling-hot milk1 pass the coffee through a small fine sieve into the coffee-pot or jug1 and serve with white sugar-candy or crystallized sugar2 it is1 as you will perceive1 a great novelty1 and an agreeable change2 but if by neglect you let the coffee get black1 or the least burnt1 do not attempt to make use of it2 it should only be sufficiently charred to break easily in a mortar if required4 #da4 ,coffee1 made with a filter4--,to make a quart2 first put a pint of boiling water through the filter to warm it1 which again pour away1 then put a quarter of a pound of ground coffee upon the filter1 upon which put the presser lightly1 and the grating1 pour over half a pint of boiling water1 let it drain three or four minutes1 then pour over a pint and a half more boiling water2 when well passed through1 pour it into a clean stewpan1 which set at the corner of the fire until a light scum arises1 but not boiling2 pour it again through the filter1 and when well drained through1 pour into the coffee-pot1 and serve with hot milk1 or a little cream1 separately4 #db4 ,another way1 more economical4--,proceed as in the last1 but draining the coffee through once only1 and serve1 after which pour another quart of boiling water over the coffee-grounds1 which1 when drained through1 reserve1 and boil up for the next coffee you make1 using it instead of water1 and an ounce less coffee4 ,,tea is1 without doubt1 one of the most useful herbs ever introduced into ,england1 which was in the year of the fire of ,london1 #afff3 it has replaced an unwholesome and heavy drink 7ale7 which used to be partaken of previously1 and has created habits of sobriety4 ,it is indigenous to ,china1 ,japan1 and ,siam1 and consists of many varieties1 the proper mixing of which constitutes the great art of a tea-dealer4 ,it is exceedingly useful in many cases of sickness1 and particularly after having partaken of any liquor to excess1 or after extraordinary fatigue4 ,when new1 it is a narcotic2 but when old it has a different effect1#b and in its native country is never partaken of until a year old1 and not then1 unless exceedingly desiccated4 ,i cannot recommend you any one in particular1 as that depends on taste2 but this ,i advise1 that when you have a kind to your liking1 to keep to it4 ,and now1 my dear friend1 without wishing in the least to offend you1 or attempting to aggravate your good nature1 ,i must beg to contradict your assertion made at the commencement of our undertaking1 where you say1 respecting tea1 of course ,i know how to make it2 you made it whilst staying at our house occasionally1 and ,mr4 ,b4 found there was a great difference between it and mine4 ,but to tell you the truth respecting tea1 ,i have a little secret of my own1 being a discovery which ,i made a short time ago by accident4 ,whilst in the act of making tea1 ,i had just put the dry tea in the pot1 when ,i heard a fearful scream up-stairs in the drawing-room2 rushing there1 ,i found my little girl had had a severe fall in reaching something from the chimney-piece1 the stool upon which she stood having upset3 twenty minutes at least had elapsed before ,i returned to my tea 7which1 being alone1 ,i was in no particular hurry for71 when ,i found that the servant1 thinking there was water in the pot1 and fearing the tea would be spoiled1 put it into the oven1 which was rather hot2 when she brought it to me1 ,i was rather annoyed1 when all at once it struck me that the leaves being hot through1 the tea would not require so long to draw2 ,i then filled the teapot with boiling water1 and in a minute afterwards had a most delicious cup of tea1 since which ,i have adopted the system upon all occasions1 and am now having made a small spirit-lamp to warm the pot and leaves1 as the oven is not always hot3 it may1 however1 be made hot in front of the fire1 but not too close of course4 ,i gave the receipt to one of our neighbors1 who actually laughed at the idea1 but never tried it1 saying1 ,we cannot teach anything to our grandmothers1 and that what did for them would do for us4 ,now what could you say to such people8 why nothing1 but let them alone1 as ,i shall do for the future4 ,but you1 my dear1 ,i know have better sense2 proceed as ,i have directed1 and you will find it a great improvement4 ,put your tea in the pot a quarter of an hour before ready for it1 warming both tea and pot1 fill with boiling water1 and leave it from three to five minutes to draw1 when it is quite ready4 ,,cacao was first known in ,europe after the discovery of ,america1 and it retains its ,indian name2 of course1 it was first used in ,spain1 and did not come into use in ,england until much later2 and we find that there was imported into ,england1 in the year #afid1 about #ac1jjj lbs4 weight of it2 at the present day there was1 in #ahdh1 #daj1jjj lbs4 ,it is a long fruit1 about five to eight inches1 and three or four thick1 which contains about thirty nuts3 the tree grows to only a few feet in height4 ,in the course of my experiments1 ,i have found that the shell is almost as nutritious as the kernel1 with less oily particles in it1 which1 to many1 are unpleasant4 #dc4 ,chocolate4--,scrape two ounces of the cake1 which put into a stew or saucepan1 with a gill of water1 upon the fire1 keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until rather thick1 when work it quickly with the spoon1 stirring in half a pint of boiling milk by degrees2 serve very hot1 with sugar separate4 #dd4 ,chocolate made in the ,italian method4--,procure a regular chocolate-pot with a muller1 the handle of which comes through the lid1 one might be procured at any brazier's1 put in two ounces of chocolate 7scraped71 over which by degrees pour a pint of boiling milk1 put on the lid1 with the muller inside1 which keep well moving1 setting the pot upon the fire1 and when very hot and frothy1 serve4 #de4 ,cocoa4--,put a teaspoonful and a half of canistered cocoa into a cup1 which fill by degrees with boiling milk1 stir it until dissolved1 when it is ready to serve2 sugar separately4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,iii ,oatlands ,cottage1 ,jan4 #bj1 #ahdi4 ,,dear ,,hortense1--,i have inclosed the whole of the receipts which you have sent me for the breakfasts1 properly classified1 having omitted the cold meats 7as you desired me7 from this series1 thinking1 as you do1 they are more suited for the luncheon4 ,to save useless repetition1 ,i have placed the receipts in numbers1 by which references can be easily made1 and any dish appearing in the dinner or luncheon series1 but available for breakfast1 can be directly found4 ,but one thing ,i remember when at your house was1 that when the remains of a joint were rather large1 you used to put it upon a side table1 and let any one help themselves from it there2 your idea being1 ,i believe1 that very few persons liked to have a large dish of meat before their eyes almost immediately after rising from their beds1 or at the first meal of the morning4 ,respecting the way your table was laid out1 to the best of my recollection1 it was as follows3--,first the large table-cloth1 over which was laid a small napkin before each person1 with cups and saucers for tea or coffee1 at choice1 small plates for rolls1 and a size larger for meat1 sausages1 eggs1 c41 a small knife and fork for each2 the butter in a pretty freezing butter-glass1 just covered with clear spring water1 and garnished with a few sprigs of parsley or watercresses2 the cream in a small china cream-jug1 and a larger jug containing hot milk for coffee2 orange marmalade in its original pot1 honeycomb1 watercresses1 and once a few nice young radishes1 which were excellent1 although a little out of season2 one day also dry toast was served1 another day buttered1 the next muffins1 then crumpets1 white and brown bread1 and small rolls1 thus making a continual change1 but all so small and inviting4 ,i shall always1 when ,i have company1 as you had then1 arrange everything in the same manner1 especially now that ,i have your receipts down4 ,but when you are alone1 you tell me1 you never make any such display1 which of course would be ridiculous2 still even then you vary1 by having either tea1 coffee1 or chocolate1 which change ,i like as well as you4 ,i eat meat but occasionally1 but ,mr4 ,l---- generally likes a little broiled bacon1 or boiled egg1 things in themselves very simple and pleasant to have upon the table4 ,yours1 in haste1 ,,eloise4 ,,early ,,luncheons4 ,,letter ,,letter ,no4 ,,iv4 ,,my ,,dear ,,friend1--,i feel perfectly satisfied with the manner in which you have classified my receipts respecting the breakfasts1 and must say ,i felt very much interested in looking over them2 ,i am confident they would prove interesting and instructive to any young housekeeper2 ,i hope1 therefore1 you will preserve the originals1 as ,i do not keep any copies1 fearing they would confuse me by making reference to them2 so that1 if at any future time ,i should make a repetition in other series1 you would be able to correct me1 for ,i am as willing as yourself that we should complete our work by going through every series comprising meals of the day4 ,the next meal1 then1 to breakfast1 in the ordinary course of events1 is the luncheon4 ,although it is a meal we never touch ourselves1 ,i am aware many small families make it a regular one1 so our little journal would not be complete without some few remarks1 which ,i intend making as short and concise as possible4 ,when we were in business1 our luncheons were comprised of any cold meats which were cooked for previous dinners2 if a joint of cold roast or boiled meat1 it requires to be nicely trimmed before making its appearance at table1 but reserving the trimmings for hash1 if of roast meat1 or bubble-and-squeak1 if salt beef1 which is an excellent method of disposing of the remainder of a joint to advantage2 if the joint happened to be cold veal1 ,i used to send for a plate of ham to serve with it1 unless there was a piece of bacon also left2 if mutton1 ,i used to dish up the leg with a pretty little paper frill upon the knuckle1 also trimming the joint lightly1 for you must be aware that1 after four or five have dined from a leg of mutton1 its appearance becomes quite spoiled1 and looks blackish when cold4 ,pork ,i also serve the same2 when parsley was cheap1 ,i always laid a few branches round it1 which used1 as my visitors said1 to make the meat look very refreshing and inviting4 ,our only addition was sometimes the remainder of game1 which at that time used frequently to be presented to us--pheasants1 partridges1 or grouse2 as it would then have been very extravagant to have purchased them1 especially when they were so expensive4 ,as an accompaniment to the meat1 ,i always kept two different sorts of mixed pickles1 good bread1 butter1 cheese1 and a glass of excellent table ale2 or1 if our guest was some bosom friend or good customer1 a bottle of sherry 7not decantered71 never any port1 thinking that more fit for the dinner-table4 ,such was my plan in the first five years after my marriage3 everything upon our table was of the first quality1 and every one used to admire the neatness with which the table was laid out4 ,my method now1 when luncheon is required 7as we do not dine until half-past five o'clock1 ,mr4 ,b4 being engaged until four in the city71 ,i have the cloth laid at twelve1 and lunch at half-past2 and that time being just after the nursery dinner1 we generally have some sort of pudding or tart1 made at the same time with theirs4 ,for cold meat1 ,i always serve that up which has been left from a previous dinner1 if any1 or any remains of poultry1 game1 ham1 or tongue4 ,when1 however1 we have six or eight friends from the country at ,christmas1 ,i feel proud to show them my style of doing things well and economically1 for they are very intelligent people1 and can appreciate good living1 though at home they really live too plain for their incomes2 but they say1 ,we do not understand how it is that you make a nice little dish almost out of nothing4 ,for should ,i have the remnants of any poultry or game not very inviting to the sight1 ,i generally cut it up and show my cook how to hash it in a variety of ways2 and ,i always remark1 that they never partake of any cold meat whilst any of the hash remains4 ,for the methods of making various hashes of fowl1 game1 hare1 rabbit1 beef1 mutton1 as also curries1 minced veal and poached eggs1 cold pies of game1 poultry1 mutton1 beefsteak1 or pigeon1 as also plain mutton cutlets1 steaks1 and broiled bones1 the whole of which may be served for luncheon1 ,i must refer you to the series of receipts belonging to the dinner2 any of these articles are placed in order upon the table1 with the pickle-stand1 two different cruet-sauces1 orange marmalade1 potatoes1 butter1 cheese1 sherry and port wines4 ,this style of luncheon will no doubt surprise you1 but ,i can assure you it scarcely increases my expenditure1 having the same number to provide for daily1 so that the luncheon is generally made up from the remains of dinner1 and the remains of luncheon will dine our three servants at half-past one4 ,in the summer1 ,i introduce a few dishes of fruit1 and less meat2 and when there are several ladies1 ,i often introduce some ,english-made wine1 which once ,i used to make myself1 but which ,i can now buy cheaper4 ,,the ,,nursery ,,dinner4 ,,letter ,no4 ,v ,,dear ,,friend1--,now here ,i must call your especial attention to the way many people treat this department of domestic comfort1 which is often very slight and irregular4 ,now1 for my part1 ,i have made quite a study of it1 and could prove that health is always dependent on the state of the digestive organs2 and that1 if you should improperly treat young stomachs1 by over or under supplying their wants1 or using them to ill-cooked food1 you not only destroy the functionary coating of the stomach1 but also impede the development of the intellect4 ,it is1 then1 as much a science to manage the food of children1 as to cater for the palate of the gourmet1 and ,i shall always consider that good food is to the body what education is to the mind4 ,my plan of managing the nursery meals is as follows3--,at eight o'clock in the morning1 which was my usual time1 ,i used myself to prepare that glutinous food upon which our ancestors and race were first reared1 rather unclassically denominated pap4 ,my method was very simple3 #df4--,put two ounces of rusk1 or tops and bottoms1 in a small saucepan1 with just sufficient water to moisten them2 set the saucepan upon the fire until its contents are thoroughly warmed through2 pour a little of the water away1 if too thin1 pressing the rusk with a spoon2 then add a teaspoonful of brown sugar1 and beat the whole with a spoon until quite a pulp2 it is then ready for use4 ,i have seen some poor people in the country make it with a stale piece of bread1 previously well dried and lightly toasted before the fire1 and you could scarcely tell the difference from rusks2 and you must observe1 that people in a country village cannot always supply themselves with everything in the way of luxury2 but look at the greater part of those country urchins1--are they not a real picture of health8 for1 after all1 nothing is more advantageous to a delicate child than country air and country food4 ,when ,mr4 ,b4 and myself were staying at ,boulogne for a few weeks1 ,i was astonished to hear that everybody used to put their children out to nurse4 ,i was so surprised1 that ,i made every inquiry1 and found it literally true1 that even respectable tradespeople sent their children a mile or two in the country1 some to the houses of very poor people3 ,i cannot say that ,i approve of such a style of bringing up infants1 but even there they seem as healthy and as joyful as possible4 ,i also found there something to be learned1 and that was1 how to make ,french pap1 which ,i think very nutritious1 but which ,i considered at the time rather heavy for our climate2 but having afterwards made a trial of it upon our little ,henry1 ,i found him doing so extremely well1 that ,i continued feeding him upon it for nearly eight months1 until he was old enough to eat other food4 ,the following is the receipt3 #dg4--,put a tablespoonful of flour into a pap saucepan1 to which add by degrees two gills of milk1 mixing it into a very smooth batter with a wooden spoon2 place the saucepan upon the fire1 let it boil ten minutes1 keeping it stirred the whole time1 or it is liable to burn or become brown1 then add about half an ounce of sugar and a little salt1 put it into a basin1 and it is ready for use4 ,a little butter is also very good in it4 ,you will observe1 that it is more difficult and troublesome to make than our pap2 but when used to it1 you will expend no more time over it2 and1 as the ,french people say1 cooking is all pleasure and no trouble4 ,but what convinces me that it is more palatable and nutritious is1 that ,i have seen a very robust man make a hearty dinner of two plates of it by introducing bread in it4 ,i have no doubt that our own hasty pudding was taken from it1 for the use of children of three or four years old1 being thought too heavy for infants4 ,these long details may appear rather insignificant and tedious to you1 but ,i leave them to your good judgment1 begging of you to curtail my remarks should you think proper2 but1 although you may consider that every person is acquainted with these domestic habits1 you would find upon inquiry that very many persons neglect them almost entirely4 ,having written thus much upon the food of infants1 we must next consider the proper diet for children of twelve months old1 commencing with bread and milk4 #dh4--;,for which1 cut about two ounces of any white bread into small thin slices1 which put into a small basin or a large breakfast cup1 in a little saucepan 7only used for that purpose7 have half a pint of milk1 which1 when upon the point of boiling1 pour over the bread2 cover the cup over five minutes1 and it is ready for use4 ,i much prefer this method to that of boiling the bread and milk together4 ,in first commencing to feed a child upon the above1 ,i always added a little sugar1 which ,i withdrew by degrees1 as ,i do not like to accustom children to too much sweets1 as it inclines them when a little older to be always wanting or eating sweet stuff1 which often spoils the best set of teeth2 and here let me remark1 that the finest fortune you can give to your children is health1 and as loving mothers1 whilst we have them under our control1 it is our duty to study their little comforts1 and direct their first steps in life in the road of happiness4 #di4 ,porridge4--,when children are delicate1 porridge is often preferable to bread and milk4 ,put two tablespoonfuls of ,scotch grits or oatmeal in the milk saucepan1 which moisten with half a pint of milk2 let it boil ten minutes1 keeping well stirred1 add a small piece of butter and a little sugar1 and it is ready for use4 ,when my children were about eighteen months or two years old1 ,i used to give them a little tender meat1 such as boiled mutton1 and broth1 but in very small quantities1 keeping still for the general food the bread and milk and porridge2 but now they are old enough to eat anything wholesome 7one being nine and the other ten years of age71 their meals are composed thus3 #ej4--;,bread and milk for breakfast at eight2 the dinner at one1 which was composed as follows throughout the week3 roast mutton and apple pudding1 roast beef and currant pudding1 baked apples2 boiled mutton with turnips1 after which rice or vermicelli pudding2 occasionally a little salt beef1 with suet dumplings1 plain and with currants in them1 or pease pudding2 or if unwell1 a little veal or chicken-broth1 or beef-tea 7the receipts for which will be found in the series entitled ,comforts for ,invalids74 ,when in business1 the first three years we could not afford to keep a nursery1 in fact1 we had no room to spare2 the children then used to dine with us at one1 but at a side-table with their nurse4 #ea4--,they then had a little plain meat1 cut small in their plates1 with potatoes1 pieces of bread1 and gravy1 after which1 three times a week1 plain rice1 bread1 or other plain pudding1 or rhubarb or apple tart2 and1 at five o'clock1 their bread and milk again1 previous to going to bed4 ,but if for people who could afford it1 ,i should recommend the following diet-table1 for nurserymaid and all3 #eb4--;,first1 about two pounds of mutton well-cooked1 but with the real gravy of the meat in it1 which will require about one hour before a moderate fire1 dredge it ten minutes before being done2 when taken up and in the dish1 sprinkle a little salt over the meat1 and pour over three or four spoonfuls of hot water to make a little light gravy4 ,many persons will1 ,i am aware1 quite disapprove of this system of washing the meat3 they would serve it as if it were for full-grown people1 but you well know what would do for children as well as ,i--plain1 simple1 and wholesome food2 ,i always carried out this system1 and ,i now make my cook do the same4 #ec4--,then the next day ,i would give them a small piece of mutton1 plain boiled1 with turnips1 and apple tart2 or a few slices of roast beef1 or a small piece roasted on purpose1 after which a very plain currant pudding2 or1 occasionally1 a little pickled pork1 with pease pudding1 or roast pork1 with baked apples1 and now and then a little salt beef1 but very well boiled1 with suet dumplings1 and occasionally1 for change1 either bread1 vermicelli1 or tapioca puddings2 in case of illness1 and with the approbation of the doctor1 veal1 mutton1 or chicken-broth1 sago1 gruel1 panada1 c41 for which refer to the receipts for invalids4 ,now the more ,i write the more ,i am convinced that1 for the method of preparing certain articles for the children's dinners1 we must refer to the kitchen department of receipts and receipts for invalids1 especially as regards broth1 meat1 puddings1 c41 or otherwise we should have so many repetitions2 so that it would be better1 upon the completion of the journal1 to make references1 either by numbers of receipt or page2 it will be more intelligible1 and less confused4 ,many people would1 perhaps1 imagine that there is too much variety of food for children2 but it is quite the contrary1 for change of food is to the stomach what change of air is to the general health1 but1 of course1 with children1 those changes must be effected with judgment1 and their food administered in smaller quantities2 but you must observe when children are well brought up with regard to their meals1 they possess extraordinary organs of digestion1 the proof of which is that they require feeding oftener than a full-grown person1 and never appear to be tired of eating1 thus1 of course1 they do not require such quantities at a time4 ,having here terminated my remarks upon the ,nursery1 ,i shall leave this scene of romp and confusion1 to walk on tip-toe to the sick-room door1 and carefully enter1 without noise1 into this mournful abode of human suffering and captivity1 in hopes that1 by watching over their diet1 my small efforts may improve their comforts1 which1 by being properly managed1 may assist in their restoration to health4 ,i shall1 therefore1 proceed to give some receipts1 entitled ,comforts for ,invalids4 ,nothing is to me more painful than to see any food ill-prepared for sick people1 where the sense of taste is partially gone2 everything ordered by the doctors as food1 should be cooked in the greatest perfection1 especially as everything they require is so very simple and easily done1 that it is unpardonable to do it badly1 although ,i am sorry to say that it is too often the case1 even in many of our first hospitals and other public establishments1 where they have provisions in abundance1 and of the first quality4 ,perhaps you may fancy ,i am too severe upon that delicate subject1 but ,i can assure you that ,i have for years been in the habit of visiting some of these institutions for the sick1 and can therefore speak with confidence4 ,i have grieved often to see it1 and have wished that they would follow a system ,i would lay down1 but there are some people who would not change their style1 however bad1 for a better one1 for the world4 ,now ,i must here claim all your intelligence1 for pointing out those receipts the accomplishing of which is most plain1 and will insure success to those who may try to do them1 and cause them to persuade others to follow their example4 ,i therefore inclose the following4 ,yours1 c4 ,,hortense4 ,,comforts ,,for ,,invalids4 #ed4 ,meat for ,invalids4--,the best meat as food for invalids is1 in fact1 that which is principally used1 mutton and beef1 lamb1 if not too young 7sweetbreads1 ,i consider1 ought oftener to be introduced71 and calves' feet or head1 scalded and boiled until tender1 are very nutritious2 chickens1 pigeons1 partridges1 are also very inviting4 ,all the above-mentioned articles are easy of digestion1 excepting perhaps the beef1 which may require to be gently stewed until tender1 if for a delicate stomach just ordered to take meat after a serious fit of illness4 #ee4 ,plain ,mutton ,broth for ,invalids4--,get one pound of scrag of mutton1 break the bone with a chopper1 without separating the meat1 then put it into a stewpan with three pints of water and a salt-spoonful of salt2 boil gently two hours1 carefully removing all the scum and fat1 which is easily done by allowing it to simmer slowly by the side of the fire2 it will be by that time reduced to about one quart1 and is then ready to serve4 ,this broth must not be expected to drink very palatable1 being deprived of vegetables and seasoning1 being in fact more like a beverage than a soup3 at the commencement of convalescence more strength may be given if ordered by the doctor1 by reducing the original quantity to one pint4 ,this broth is often administered by a spoonful only at a time4 #ef4 ,seasoned ,mutton ,broth4--,put the same quantity of mutton and water into your stewpan1 add double the quantity of salt1 and a quarter ditto brown sugar1 quarter of a middle-sized onion1 very little celery1 and one ounce of turnip2 set it upon the fire1 and when beginning to boil draw it to the side2 let it simmer gently two hours2 skim off all the scum and fat1 and pass it through a sieve1 and use it when required4 ,when finished1 there ought to remain about a quart of broth2 but if by neglect it has boiled too fast1 add more water1 and set to boil for a quarter of an hour longer4 ,if the patient is getting better1 his medical man will probably order him to eat a little of the meat1 or even turnips1 in which case serve them on a plate separately2 should the meat not be required by the patient1 it is very excellent for a healthy person1 with a few spoonfuls of onions or caper sauce1 or even plain4 ,if pearl-barley is required to be taken with the broth1 put a tablespoonful of it in with the water when you first put it upon the fire1 the whole will then be done together2 if the barley is to be eaten by the patient1 take out the meat and vegetables1 and skim off every spot of grease2 but if the barley is not required1 pass the broth1 as before1 through a sieve4 #eg4 ,mutton ,broth 7with variations74 ,with ,vermicelli4--,having made your broth1 and passed it through a sieve1 as before1 put the meat and vegetables upon a plate1 and the broth back into the same stewpan2 when boiling1 if about a quart1 add one or two tablespoonfuls of vermicelli1 depending upon the strength of the patient's stomach2 ten minutes' boiling will be sufficient to cook vermicelli4 #eh4 ,with ,rice4--,one spoonful of best rice in the stewpan1 with mutton and water the same as the barley1 as it is better for the rice to be in pulp than underdone4 #ei4 ,with ,semoulina4--,semoulina is very delicate and glutinous1 and ,i am quite confident that the faculty would approve of it after a trial or two2 it is good in any kind of broth or milk for invalids1 of very easy digestion1 and having also the advantage of being tolerably cheap and quickly cooked2 proceed as directed for vermicelli4 #fj4 ,with ,arrow-root4--,after having passed your broth1 place it again into the stewpan to boil2 when boiling1 put two teaspoonfuls of arrow-root into a cup1 which mix smoothly with a gill of cold broth1 or half ditto of water2 then pour it into your boiling broth1 which keep stirring with a spoon2 let it simmer ten minutes1 and it is ready for use4 #fa4 ,veal ,broth 7,french method74--,the following is much recommended by ,french physicians3--,put one pound of veal from knuckle1 with but very little of the bone1 into a stewpan with three pints of water and a salt-spoonful of salt1 place it over the fire to boil2 when boiling1 take off all the scum2 then add a small cabbage-lettuce and a few sprigs of chervil1 if handy2 let simmer slowly for two hours1 it will then be reduced to about a quart2 pass it through a sieve1 letting the meat drain1 and it is ready to serve4 #fb4 ,another way1 more palatable4--,take the same quantity of veal as before1 which cut into small dice 7as you should cut all meat if possible71 put it into the stewpan1 with a small pat of butter1 half an onion1 about the same quantity of carrot and turnip1 a little celery1 and a teaspoonful of salt2 set the stewpan upon the fire1 keeping the contents stirred1 for about ten minutes1 until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a whitish glaze1 then add three pints of hot water2 let the whole simmer one hour at the corner of the fire1 skim well1 pass it through a sieve1 and use when required4 ,this broth is most palatable and very digestible1 but of course only to be given to the convalescent2 it may be served with vermicelli1 rice1 arrow-root1 and semoulina1 as directed for mutton broth4 #fc4 ,another very ,refreshing and ,strengthening ,veal ,broth4--,put two pounds of knuckle of veal into a stewpan1 with a calf's foot split1 and the bone taken out and chopped up1 add three quarts of water1 a good-sized onion1 one leek1 a piece of parsnip1 and two salt-spoonfuls of salt 7if allowed by the doctor1 if not1 the salt must be omitted71 set it upon the fire1 and when beginning to boil1 skim1 and let it simmer at the corner of the fire four hours2 twenty minutes before passing1 again skim off all the fat1 and add ten large leaves of sorrel1 or twenty small1 one cabbage-lettuce1 and a handful of chervil1 and when done pass it through a sieve1 when it is ready for use4 ,this broth is very cooling and nutritious when taken cold1 as it is then quite a jelly2 vermicelli1 rice1 c41 may be added when served hot1 and the veal and calf's foot is very excellent1 eaten with parsley-and-butter or sharp sauce2 but should the patient require any1 it must be quite plain1 with a little of the broth and only the gelatinous part of the foot4 ,the above also makes an excellent dinner soup1 and if put in a cool place1 would keep a week in winter and three days in summer4 #fd4 ,soyer's new way of making ,beef ,tea4--,cut a pound of solid beef into very small dice1 which put into a stewpan1 with a small pat of butter1 a clove1 two button onions1 and a salt-spoonful of salt1 stir the meat round over the fire for a few minutes1 until it produces a thin gravy1 then add a quart of water1 and let it simmer at the corner of the fire for half an hour1 skimming off every particle of fat1 when done pass through a sieve4 ,i have always had a great objection to passing broth through a cloth1 as it frequently quite spoils its flavor4 ,the same1 if wanted plain1 is done by merely omitting the vegetables1 salt1 and clove2 the butter cannot be objectionable1 as it is taken out in skimming1 pearl-barley1 vermicelli1 rice1 c41 may be served in it if required4 #fe4 ,real ,essence of ,beef4--,take one pound of solid beef from the rump1 a steak would be the best1 cut it into thin slices1 which lay upon a thin trencher1 and scrape quite fine with a large and sharp knife 7as quickly as possible1 or the juice of the meat would partially soak into the wood1 your meat thus losing much of its strengthening quality71 when like sausage-meat put it into a stewpan or saucepan1 and stir over the fire five or ten minutes1 until thoroughly warmed through1 then add a pint of water1 cover the stewpan as tightly as possible1 and let it remain close to the fire or in a warm oven for twenty minutes1 then pass it through a sieve1 pressing the meat with a spoon to extract all the essence4 ,i beg to observe that here you have the real juice of the meat2 but if wanted stronger1 put only half instead of one pint of water2 seasoning may be introduced1 that is1 a little salt1 sugar1 and cloves1 but no vegetables1 as they would not have time to cook1 thus leaving a raw1 bad flavor4 #ff4 ,pure ,osmazome1 or ,essence of ,meat4--,take two pounds of the flesh of any animal or bird 7the older the better for obtaining the true flavor71 as free from sinew as possible1 and mince it well2 place it in a ,florence oil-flask1 and cork it2 put this in a saucepan filled with cold water1 leaving the neck uncovered2 place it on the side of the fire until the water arrives at #afj ,fahr41 at which temperature it must remain for twenty minutes2 then remove it1 and strain the contents through a tammie1 pressing the meat gently with a spoon2 should it require to be kept for some time1 put the liquor in a basin or cup1 which place in the saucepan2 subject it to a boiling heat until it is reduced to a consistency like treacle1 removing the scum2 this1 when cold1 will become solid1 and will keep for any number of years4 ,osmazome is known under various names in different cookery books1 as fumet1 essence1 c41 but which are obtained in a different way1 which causes the gelatine to be produced with the osmazome2 but1 by the above plan1 it is left in the meat1 and the osmazome1 with a small quantity of the albumen1 is extracted1 and the albumen is afterwards removed as the scum4 #fg4 ,chicken ,broth4--,put half a raw chicken into a stewpan1 with a quart of water1 a little leek and celery1 with a salt-spoonful of salt1 and a few sprigs of parsley 7if allowed71 set the stewpan upon the fire2 when boiling1 skim well1 and let simmer upon the corner for one hour2 pass it through a sieve1 and it is ready for use4 ,the chicken would eat very nice with a little matre d'htel sauce1 or any other from that series would do for the parlor1 that is1 when the patient is not allowed to eat it4 ,for a change1 chicken-broth in the following way is very nutritious2 that is1 after having passed the broth through a sieve1 pour it back again into the stewpan1 which place over the fire2 moisten a teaspoonful of flour in a cup with a little cold broth or water1 and when quite smooth pour it into the broth whilst boiling1 stirring quickly1 let simmer a quarter of an hour1 and it is ready4 ,mutton or veal-broth may also be varied the same4 #fh4 ,eel ,broth1 very strengthening4--,take a small eel1 which skin as described1 and wash well1 then cut into slices1 which put into a small saucepan1 just covered with water1 add a little salt1 a few sprigs of parsley1 two button onions1 and a clove2 let it simmer very gently until the eels are tender1 when skim off all the fat1 pass the broth through a very fine sieve into a cup3 it is then ready to serve when required1 but a spoonful only should be taken at a time4 ,a patient is sometimes allowed to take part of the fish1 which being so much boiled1 constitutes a lighter food than eels are in general2 a little melted butter and parsley might be served with them4 #fi4 ,lait de ,poule1 ,french remedy for colds4--,may be made from any of the foregoing broths1 and for colds is excellent4 ,break a fresh egg1 separate the white from the yolk1 put the yolk in a basin1 with a quarter of a gill of good cream or milk1 which mix well with a spoon1 have half a pint of broth boiling1 which pour gradually over the egg and cream1 mixing it 7as you pour the broth7 with a wooden spoon2 it is then ready1 and ought to be taken when going to bed1 if only for a cold4 #gj4 ,sweet ,lait de ,poule4--,this is also reckoned very good for a cold4 ,put two yolks of eggs into a cup1 with two teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar1 a few drops of orange-flower water1 or the eighth part of the rind of a fresh lemon grated1 beat them well together for ten minutes1 then pour boiling water gradually over1 keeping it stirred1 until the cup is nearly full4 ,drink this very hot when in bed2 ,i can strongly recommend it from experience4 #ga4 ,riz au ,lait1 or ,rice ,milk1 is a very favorite food1 or soup2 in ,france many persons make their suppers from it1 even when in a state of perfect health4 ,proceed as follows3 wash a tablespoonful of good rice in water1 which drain and put into a stewpan1 with a pint of milk1 upon the fire1 and when boiling1 place it at the corner to simmer1 until the rice is quite tender1 but for invalids1 must be in a pulp2 sweeten with a little sugar1 and it is quite ready4 #gb4 ,rice ,milk seasoned4--,proceed exactly as in the last1 but when the rice is quite tender add an ounce of butter1 two teaspoonfuls of sugar1 and a little salt1 stir well together1 and it is then ready2 this must neither be too thick nor too thin1 but about the thickness of well-made gruel2 in ,france they always add a few drops of orange-flower water1 but that depends upon taste4 ,these two last are very nutritious1 especially after a long illness4 #gc4 ,vermicelli au ,lait4--,boil a pint of milk1 and when boiling add sufficient vermicelli to make it about the thickness of the last article2 it may be served quite plain if required1 or seasoned as for the riz au lait1 but omitting the orange-flower water4 #gd4 ,semoulina au ,lait4--,boil a pint of milk1 and when boiling add a tablespoonful of semoulina1 stirring it gently1 to prevent its becoming lumpy2 let it simmer twenty minutes1 and serve either plain or seasoned1 as for the riz au lait4 #ge4 ,tapioca au ,lait4--,proceed exactly as in the last1 but it will require rather longer to simmer before the tapioca is tender2 and1 by way of change1 add a little grated lemon-peel1 or a glass of white wine1 if allowed by the doctor1 or season as for the last4 #gf4 ,arrow-root4--,put two teaspoonfuls of arrow-root1 which mix gradually with enough water or milk1 stirring it with a spoon1 let it boil a few minutes1 and if made with milk1 add only a little butter1 sugar1 and salt1 or serve plain2 but if made with water1 add the eighth part of the rind of a fresh lemon to boil with it2 when done add a glass of port or sherry1 sugar1 a little salt1 and a small piece of butter1 unless prohibited4 #gg4 ,gruel4--,put two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal or prepared groats into a stewpan1 and by degrees add a pint of water1 mixing smoothly with a wooden spoon1 place it upon the fire1 keeping it well stirred1 until it has boiled a couple of minutes1 when pour it into a basin1 add half a salt-spoonful of salt1 two teaspoonfuls of brown sugar1 and two ounces of butter1 the latter especially1 if for a cold in the chest1 even more than that quantity1 if the stomach is strong enough to bear it4 ,gruel when properly made ought to adhere rather thickly to the back of the spoon1 but not to be pasty2 it ought1 likewise1 to be eaten directly it is made1 or it becomes thick and unpleasant to eat2 if required plain1 omit all the seasoning2 it might also be made of milk4 #gh4 ,gruel from ,scotch ,groats4--,proceed as above1 but adding rather more water1 and boiling a few minutes longer2 many people prefer eating it with the rough groats in it1 but if objectionable1 place a small clean sieve over the basin you intend serving it in1 pass the gruel through1 and season as in the last4 ,some people add spirits or wine2 but that ,i should never recommend any one to do1 unless by the doctor's orders1 and that would be but very seldom1 especially as regards spirits4 #gi4 ,sago ,gruel4--,put two tablespoonfuls of sago into a small saucepan1 which moisten gradually with a pint of cold water1 set it over a slow fire1 keeping it stirred until becoming rather thickish and clear1 similar to a jelly1 then add a little grated nutmeg and sugar according to taste1 and serve2 half a pat of butter might also be added with the sugar1 or it might be made with new milk1 and a little salt added1 and a glass of wine in either case makes it more palatable4 #hj4 ,arrow-root1 ,transparent ,jelly4--,put a good teaspoonful of arrow-root into a basin1 which mix smoothly with two spoonfuls of water1 then add enough boiling water to make it about the consistency of starch1 stirring all the time1 pour it into a stewpan1 and stir over the fire until it has boiled two minutes2 add a little cream1 a small glass of wine1 and a little sugar1 and serve4 #ha4 ,french ,panada1 for aged people1 invalids1 and children4--,break a stale penny roll into a saucepan1 in which pour just sufficient water to cover the bread1 stir well over the fire1 allowing it to boil five minutes1 then add half a teaspoonful of salt1 and two ounces of fresh butter1 mix them1 and take from the fire2 have one yolk of egg well beaten1 with two tablespoonfuls of milk 7if handy7 or water1 which pour into the panada1 stirring very quickly for half a minute1 it is then ready to pour into a basin and serve4 ,any common bread would do for panada1 but would not eat so light as when made from a roll4 ,i knew a very aged lady in ,france who accustomed herself to eat a basin of panada every night1 a few minutes previous to going to bed1 for a period of eighteen years1 which will prove that1 although very substantial in appearance1 it must be very easily digested4 ,panada ought to be rather thicker than gruel1 and may likewise be made of milk1 but water is preferable1 especially when for bilious people4 #hb4 ,barley ,water4--,put half a gallon of water into a very clean saucepan1 with two ounces of clean 7but unwashed7 pearl barley1 when boiling1 carefully skim it with a tablespoon1 and add half the rind of a small lemon1 let it boil until the barley is quite tender2 sweeten with half an ounce of white sugar1 strain it through a fine hair sieve1 and use when required4 ,the juice of half a lemon in some cases may also be introduced4 #hc4 ,rice ,water4--,put a quart of water to boil in a saucepan1 with a handful of clean rice 7but not washed71 place it upon the fire1 and let boil gently until the rice is quite in a pulp1 then pass it through a hair sieve into a jug1 pressing as much of the rice through as possible1 and when getting cold1 sweeten moderately with honey1 which will make it very palatable2 it should be drunk lukewarm4 #hd4 ,a ,new ,drink4--,put half a gallon of water upon the fire1 and when boiling1 have ready four pippin apples 7quite ripe71 cut each apple into eight slices1 without peeling them1 throw them into the water1 which keep boiling until the apples are quite soft1 pass the water through a sieve1 pressing the apples gently against the side of the sieve1 but not rubbing them through1 add enough honey to make it a little sweetish1 and drink lukewarm4 ,two apples thrown into the rice-water and boiled the same would be a great improvement4 ,people in good health would much enjoy such drink1 during the summer especially2 as also would poor people in the country1 where apples are plentiful4 ,any kind of apples would suit1 and brown sugar instead of honey1 or even no sugar at all4 #he4 ,cooling ,drink4--,bake four or six apples1 without peeling them2 when done and quite hot1 put them into a jug1 and pour over three pints of boiling water2 cover the jug over with paper1 and when cold it is ready for use2 a spoonful of honey or brown sugar added makes it very palatable4 #hf4 ,almond ,water4--,put five ounces of sweet and two of bitter almonds into a saucepan1 with a pint of hot water1 set them upon the fire1 and1 when boiling1 strain them upon a sieve1 take off their skins1 and set them in spring water to cool1 then dry them upon a cloth1 pound them in a mortar until very fine1 adding a few drops of water occasionally1 to prevent their becoming oily1 set a pint of syrup to boil1 when throw in the mashed almonds2 boil together a minute1 then set it at the corner to simmer for a quarter of an hour2 it is then ready to pass through a fine sieve for use4 ,when required1 add any quantity of cold water you please to make it palatable1 according to taste or direction4 #hg4 ,barley ,lemonade4--,put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a small stewpan1 with half a pint of water1 which boil about ten minutes1 or until forming a thickish syrup2 then add the rind of a fresh lemon and the pulp of two2 let it boil two minutes longer1 when add two quarts of barley-water1 from which you have omitted the sugar and lemon2 boil five minutes longer1 pass it through a hair sieve into a jug1 which cover with paper1 making a hole in the centre to let the heat through2 when cold1 it is ready for use2 if put cold into a bottle and well corked down1 it would keep good several days4 ,barley ,orangeade is made the same1 substituting the rind and juice of oranges2 the juice of a lemon1 in addition1 is an improvement1 when taken as a refreshing beverage4 #hh4 ,a ,refreshing ,beverage4--,slice two oranges and one lemon1 which put into a jug1 with two ounces of sugarcandy1 over which pour one quart of boiling water2 stir it occasionally until cold1 when drink it a little at a time1 as often as ordered by the medical attendant4 ,this drink is also very excellent for persons in health1 especially in warm weather4 #hi4 ,raspberry ,vinegar ,beverage4--,put two tablespoonfuls of raspberry vinegar into a cup1 over which pour half a pint of boiling water2 when cold1 use it as you may be instructed or when necessary2 any kind of fruit syrup would answer the same purpose1 and be equally as good1 that is1 currants1 cherries1 strawberries1 mulberries1 c4 #ij4 ,a very ,strengthening ,drink4--,put a teacupful of pearl-barley into a saucepan1 with three pints of cold water1 the rind of a lemon and a small piece of cinnamon2 boil the whole very gently until the barley becomes tender1 when strain it through a fine sieve1 and sweeten with a spoonful of treacle3 if treacle should be objectionable1 honey or sugar will do4 #ia4 ,fresh ,fruit ,water4--,fresh fruits1 when in season1 are very preferable to syrups1 which are but seldom well made1 except at some of the first confectioners or ,italian warehouses4 ,pick a bottle of fresh raspberries or strawberries1 whichever you may require1 rub them through a sieve into a basin1 which mix well with half a pint of syrup1 the juice of a lemon1 and a quart of spring water2 pass it through a fine hair sieve1 and put it by in a jug for use2 both the syrup and water may either be increased or diminished according to taste4 ,red or white currant waters are made precisely the same1 only omitting the lemon1 the currants themselves being sufficiently sharp4 #ib4 ,cherry ,draught4--,choose a pound of good fleshy cherries1 from which take the stalk and stones1 have a pint of syrup boiling1 into which throw them1 to boil as fast as possible for ten minutes1 then take them from the fire1 and add a good wine-glassful of ,madeira or sherry1 and a quart of boiling water2 put it into a jug1 with a cup over2 when cold1 pass it through a sieve1 and it is ready for use3 the wine may be omitted if not required4 ,a drink of the same description may likewise be made from mulberries1 but then a little lemon-juice must be added4 #ic4 ,arrow-root ,water4--,put half a gallon of water to boil with two apples1 the same as in ,no4 #hd1 with the addition of a stick of cinnamon2 let the whole boil half an hour1 then mix two large spoonfuls of arrow-root with half a pint of cold water1 very smoothly1 and pour it into the boiling water3 let the whole boil ten minutes1 and pass it through a sieve2 when cold1 it will drink light and thickish4 #id4 ,french ,herb ,broth4--,this is a very favorite beverage in ,france1 as well with people in a state of health as with invalids1 especially in the spring1 when the herbs are young and green4 ,put a quart of water to boil1 but have previously prepared about forty leaves of sorrel1 a cabbage-lettuce1 and ten sprigs of chervil1 the whole well washed2 when the water is boiling1 throw in the above1 with the addition of a teaspoonful of salt and half an ounce of fresh butter2 cover your saucepan close1 and let them simmer a few minutes1 then pass it through a sieve or colander4 ,this is to be drunk cold1 especially in the spring of the year1 after the change from winter4 ,i generally drink about a quart per day for a week1 at that time2 but if for sick people1 it must be made less strong of herbs1 and taken a little warm4 ,to prove that it is wholesome1 we have only to refer to the instinct which teaches dogs to eat grass at that season of the year4 ,i do not pretend to say that it would suit persons in every malady1 because the doctors are to decide upon the food and beverage of their patients1 and study its changes as well as change their medicines4 #ie4 ,dry ,plum ,beverage4--,put a quart of water in a saucepan upon the fire1 and1 when boiling1 throw in twelve fresh dry ,french plums1 and let them boil twenty minutes1 then pour them in a basin with the liquor to cool2 when cold1 take out the plums1 which put into a basin2 add two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar and a very small quantity of port wine4 ,they are excellent to eat1 and the liquor to drink4 #if4 ,figs and ,apple ,beverage4--,have two quarts of water boiling1 into which throw six fresh dry figs1 previously opened1 and two apples1 previously cut into six or eight pieces each2 let the whole boil together twenty minutes1 then pour them together into a basin to cool1 then pass through a sieve2 drain the figs1 which will be also good to eat4 #ig4 ,stewed ,plums4--,put twelve ,french plums in a stewpan1 with a spoonful of brown sugar1 a gill of water1 a little cinnamon1 and some thin rind of a lemon2 let them stew twenty minutes1 then pour them in a basin until cold1 take them from their syrup and eat them dry4 ,they are sometimes stewed in wine and water1 either port1 sherry1 or claret4 #ih4 ,baked ,apples are very much used by invalids3 have a common yellow dish1 such as you frequently see in farmhouses1 into which put about twelve apples 7previously well wiped7 and about a gill of water1 and put them in a hot oven for half an hour1 or rather more should the apples be large2 when well done1 take them out to get cold upon the dish1 and eat them cold1 either with powdered lump or moist sugar4 #ii4 ,cooling ,lemonade4--,put a quart of water in a stewpan to boil1 into which put two moist dried figs1 each split in two2 let it boil a quarter of an hour1 then have ready the peel of a lemon1 taken off rather thickly1 and the half of the lemon cut in thin slices2 throw them into the stewpan and boil two minutes longer2 then pour it into a jug1 which cover closely with paper until cold1 then pass it through a sieve3 add a teaspoonful of honey1 and it is ready for use4 #ajj4 ,imperial1 a cooling ,drink for the ,spring4--,two ounces of cream of tartar1 two lemons1 juice and peel1 four ounces of sugar2 place in a stone jug1 and pour about six quarts of boiling water2 allow it to get cold1 and bottle for use2 or1 instead of sugar1 add three tablespoonfuls of raspberry vinegar1 and six ounces of honey4 ,this is excellent aerated-like soda water4 ,essence of ratafia1 or any other1 may be added1 with about half a pint of pure spirit at proof1 for those accustomed to spirits4 #aja4 ,orangeade4--,proceed as for lemonade1 but using the whole of the orange1 a little of the peel included1 sweetening with sugar candy1 and adding a teaspoonful of arrow-root mixed with a little cold water1 which pour into the boiling liquid at the same time you put in the orange4 ,the arrow-root makes it very delicate4 #ajb4 ,toast and ,water4--,the ease and simplicity of making this popular drink is probably the cause of its not being well made one time in ten1 that is1 in private families2 the bread is too much or too little done1 or there is too much or not half enough water1 or more or less bread2 ,i venture to say that if any person would take the trouble to go from house to house1 where there are patients1 and taste toast and water at each1 they would not find two of the same flavor1 and perhaps not any of it properly made4 ,to make it to perfection1 proceed as follows3 cut a piece of crusty bread1 about a quarter of a pound in weight1 place it upon a toasting-fork1 and hold it about six inches from the fire2 turn it often1 and keep moving it gently until of a light yellow color1 then place it nearer the fire1 and when of a good brown chocolate color1 put it into a jug1 and pour three pints of boiling water over2 cover the jug until cold1 then strain it into a clean jug1 and it is ready for use3 never leave the toast in it1 for in summer it would cause fermentation in a short time4 ,i would almost venture that such toast and water as ,i have described would keep good a considerable time in bottles4 ,the idea that bread must be burnt black to make toast and water is quite a popular delusion1 for nothing nourishing could come from it3 if your house was burnt to ashes1 it would be valueless2 and the same with burnt bread1 which merely makes the water black1 but the nutriment of the bread1 intended to relieve the chest1 has evaporated in smoke by being burnt4 ,,puddings ,,for ,,invalids4 #ajc4 ,apple and ,rice4--,boil half an ounce of ,carolina rice in a gill of milk until very tender1 then add a very small piece of butter1 sugar1 a little cinnamon1 and a grain of salt2 then peel1 core1 and slice a middling-sized apple1 which put into a stewpan1 with a small piece of butter1 a little sugar1 and a drop of water1 and stew it until tender2 when done1 put the apple in a small tart-dish1 mix an egg with the rice1 which pour over the apple1 and bake ten minutes in a moderate oven2 it may also be made quite plain1 if preferred4 #ajd4 ,custard ,pudding4--,boil one pint of milk1 with a small piece of lemon-peel and half a bay-leaf1 for three minutes2 then pour these on to three eggs1 mix it with one ounce of sugar well together1 and pour it into a buttered mould3 steam it twenty-five minutes in a stewpan with some water 7see ,no4 #aab71 turn out on a plate and serve4 #aje4 ,rice ,puddings4--,wash well two ounces of rice in some water1 strain1 then put it into a pint and a half of boiling milk1 with a small piece of lemon-peel1 cinnamon1 and half a bay-leaf1 tied together2 let it boil gently1 stirring it occasionally1 until quite tender2 then put to it one ounce of butter1 a little grated nutmeg1 a tablespoonful of sugar1 and two eggs2 pour it into a buttered tart-dish1 and bake it half an hour4 #ajf4 ,macaroni ,pudding4--,blanch two ounces of ,naples macaroni in some water for eight or ten minutes2 strain it1 add it to one pint of boiling milk1 in which you have previously boiled a piece of lemon-peel1 cinnamon1 and one ounce of butter2 when the macaroni is quite tender1 add two eggs and sugar enough to sweeten it3 steam it one hour in a stewpan1 in a buttered tart-dish4 #ajg4 ,vermicelli ,pudding4--,boil one pint of milk1 with a piece of lemon-peel1 half a bay-leaf1 and a piece of cinnamon1 then add one ounce of vermicelli2 when reduced to half1 add two eggs1 and a little sugar2 pour these in a buttered mould1 and steam it half an hour4 #ajh4 ,tapioca ,pudding4--,boil one pint of milk1 with a piece of lemon-peel and a little cinnamon2 then add two ounces of tapioca2 reduce to half2 add two eggs1 and one ounce of butter2 pour these in a buttered mould1 and steam half an hour4 #aji4 ,bread ,pudding4--,boil one pint of milk1 with a piece of cinnamon and lemon-peel2 pour it on two ounces of bread-crumbs2 then add two eggs1 half an ounce of currants1 and a little sugar3 steam it in a buttered mould for one hour4 #aaj4 ,cabinet ,pudding4--,boil one pint of milk1 with a piece of lemon-peel1 pour it on one ounce of sponge biscuit1 let it soak half an hour1 then add three eggs1 half an ounce of currants1 and very little sugar3 steam it in a buttered mould1 lined with raisins1 one hour4 #aaa4 ,bread and ,butter ,pudding4--,butter a tart-dish well and sprinkle some currants all round it1 then lay in a few slices of bread and butter2 boil one pint of milk1 pour it on two eggs well whipped1 and then on the bread and butter2 bake it in a hot oven for half an hour4 #aab4 ,a ,small ,bread ,pudding4--,cut an ounce of the crumb of bread into thin slices1 with the least piece of butter spread over each1 which place in a small tart-dish2 then break an egg into a cup with a teaspoonful of sugar and a little powdered cinnamon1 beat well2 then add about six tablespoonfuls of boiled milk1 mix well together1 pour over the bread1 and bake in a slow oven1 or steam it1 if preferred1 by standing the dish in a stewpan containing about half a pint of water1 that is1 the water should be about half way up to the rim of the dish2 set the stewpan 7covered close7 upon the fire1 and let it slowly boil about ten minutes or longer1 until the pudding is properly set1 then take the cover from the stewpan1 which let remain a few minutes longer upon the fire2 then take out the pudding1 wipe the dish1 and serve4 ,fish for ,invalids4--,slips1 soles1 flounders1 whitings1 and smelts are the lightest of any fish1 and upon that account more to be recommended to invalids in a state of convalescence4 #aac4 ,whiting1 plain boiled4--,put two quarts of water into a small fish kettle1 with about an ounce of salt2 when boiling1 put in the whiting1 draw the kettle to the corner of the fire to keep it just simmering1 and no more2 a whiting of the ordinary size would take about ten minutes2 when done1 which you can tell by trying with the point of a knife whether it leaves the bone easily1 take it up carefully1 and dish it upon a clean napkin1 with a few sprigs of parsley round2 although the parsley is of course useless as far as the stomach is concerned1 nothing can be more pleasing to an invalid than to see his meals carefully cooked and invitingly served4 ,at any time ,i prefer a whiting with the skin on1 whether boiled1 grilled1 or fried2 a little butter just melted1 with a pinch of salt1 and the least drop of lemon-juice added1 is very excellent to eat as sauce with them4 ,should you purchase your fish in the country1 it will of course require cleaning1 by opening the belly and pulling out the gills and interior2 but never wash these fish1 merely wipe them with a cloth4 #aad4 ,broiled ,whiting4--,having cleaned your whiting1 and wiped it gently dry with a cloth1 flour it all over lightly1 rub the gridiron over with a little oil1 lay the whiting upon it1 and put it over a clear fire1 but not too close1 turn it carefully three or four times1 and when it feels firm to the touch of the finger1 it is done2 if a large one1 it will take about twenty minutes2 sprinkle a little salt over1 if required1 and serve with plain melted butter1 with a few drops of essence of anchovies in it4 #aae4 ,sautd ,whitings4--,put some fat or butter in a frying-pan1 which place over a clear but moderate fire2 have your whiting floured as in the last1 and when the fat or butter is melted1 lay it in the pan2 let it saut slowly until it is done1 which try as in either of the last two2 when done1 drain it upon a cloth1 sprinkle a little salt over1 and serve4 ,if fried1 enveloped in bread-crumbs1 dip the fish lightly into flour1 then egg it all over with a paste-brush1 and dip in some very fine bread-crumbs1 and fry it rather longer1 but do not let the fat get black1 or it will give the fish a black1 heavy appearance1 and quite spoil the flavor4 ,fish fried in oil would have a much better appearance than when fried in fat1 but probably would be objectionable to a weak stomach4 ,they ought to be completely covered with the fat4 #aaf4 ,smelts are very delicate fish1 but ought never to be plain boiled2 being confident of the good use they may be turned to as a diet for the sick1 ,i shall here give two receipts for dressing them very plainly1 yet still very palatable4 ,choose them rather large1--if so1 two would be sufficient for a meal1--having previously drawn and cleansed them1 put a gill of water into a small stewpan1 with a little salt1 a saltspoonful of powdered sugar1 and four small sprigs of parsley2 when boiling lay in your smelts1 which let simmer five minutes1 or more1 if larger than usual1 keeping the stewpan well covered2 then take them out carefully1 lay them upon a dish1 and pour the broth over2 both fish and broth are excellent4 ,they may be cooked the same way in the oven4 ,another way is to add a little arrow-root1 mixed with a drop of cold water1 to the above1 when half cooked2 it makes it very soothing to the chest4 ,be extremely careful not to let the fish or liquor burn at the bottom of the stewpan2 there should be about three parts of the quantity of liquor when cooked as you first put in water1 allowing one quarter to evaporate whilst boiling4 #aag4 ,broiled ,smelts4--,when cleansed and wiped dry with a cloth1 dip them lightly into flour1 and put them upon a gridiron over a slow fire1 for five1 or six minutes1 turning them carefully when half done2 serve plain1 or with a little sauce1 if allowed1 as many patients are forbidden moist food4 ,i can highly recommend any kind of white fish cooked in this manner2 and it is well known that nothing in the way of food is more digestible than fish4 ,water souchet of flounders1 soles1 and slips may also be served to invalids1 by proceeding the same as above4 ,meat1 ,game1 and ,poultry1 of every kind1 for invalids1 ought to be served as free from fat as possible4 #aah4 ,a ,mutton ,chop4--,choose one from a lean loin of mutton1 or if one in the house rather fat cut the greater part of it off2 your chop should be about six ounces in weight1 and cut off an equal thickness2 lay it upon a table1 and beat it lightly with the flat part of your chopper1 then lay it upon a gridiron1 over a good clear fire2 season with a little salt1 if allowed1 and turn it four or five times whilst broiling2 it will require about eight minutes over a good fire1 but of course longer over an indifferent one2 if by pressing it with a knife it feels firm1 it is done2 serve upon a very hot plate1 for if partly cold1 the least fat would immediately set1 and be very unpleasant1 especially to a person unwell4 #aai4 ,plain ,mutton ,cutlet1 from the ,neck4--,an invalid will frequently be tired of a mutton chop2 and for my own part ,i must say a cutlet is far superior in flavor1 and has a much neater appearance2 cut off a rib from the neck1 of the same thickness as a mutton chop2 cut away the skin upon each side of the bone1 to the chine1 which chop off2 trim away the greater part of the fat1 cut a piece at the end of the bone1 which scrape off1 leaving about half an inch of the bone bare2 then beat it lightly with the flat of the chopper2 season2 broil and serve very hot1 as in the last4 #abj4 ,stewed ,chop or ,cutlet4--,put it into a stewpan or small saucepan1 with a pint of water1 and a little salt and sugar2 let it stew as gently as possible from an hour and a half to two hours1 skim off all the scum and fat1 and the patient may partake of both chop and broth2 if seasoning is allowed1 put a teaspoonful of pearl-barley1 with a little celery1 leek1 and turnip1 cut up very small1 into the stewpan with the water1 when you first put the chop on1 and proceed as before2 serve the broth in a soup basin1 with the chop in it2 should the meat happen to be tough1 let it stew rather longer2 the broth should be reduced to about half a pint4 #aba4 ,beef1 ,rump ,steak4--,the tenderest part of the rump should be selected1 about half a pound1 not cut too thick1 and very even2 place it upon your gridiron over a moderate fire1 turning it frequently2 when done1 sprinkle a little salt over2 ten minutes would cook it thoroughly1 but if wanted underdone1 as in many cases where the patient only sucks the gravy1 less time must be allowed4 #abb4 ,stewed ,beef4--,put the same quantity of beef as in the last into a saucepan1 with a quart of water1 which place over the fire1 and when beginning to boil1 well skim1 then add a little celery1 turnip1 and carrot1 the whole weighing about an ounce1 and cut very small1 let stew gently about three hours1 by which time the broth will be reduced to one quarter2 skim all the fat off carefully2 serve the meat upon a plate1 and the broth in a basin4 #abc4 ,lamb ,chops or ,cutlets4--,proceed as just described for mutton1 but being more delicate1 they will require but little more than half the time to cook4 #abd4 ,lambs' ,feet are very nutritious2 purchase them ready cleaned2 lay them ten minutes in boiling water1 by doing which you will be able to draw out the leg-bone with facility2 then put them in a stewpan 7two would be sufficient71 and pour over a pint of water with which you have mixed smoothly a tablespoonful of flour1 and half a teaspoonful of salt2 place them upon the fire1 stirring frequently until boiling1 when add a small onion1 with a celery1 parsley1 and parsnip2 boil gently for two hours1 and when done1 serve plain upon a plate1 or with a little melted butter and parsley poured over4 ,by using a little white broth from any meat instead of water1 you make a delicious soft soup1 which may be partaken of freely4 ,calves' feet are dressed in the same manner1 but using a double proportion of everything1 and stewing them double the time2 they are served precisely the same4 ,,poultry ,,for ,,invalids4 #abe4 ,roast ,chicken4--,procure a nice plump chicken1 which draw and truss1 and cut the sinews2 pass the spit through under the skewer as usual1 and set it down before a clear fire2 after being there five minutes1 have ready a pat of butter1 in the bowl of a wooden spoon1 with which rub the chicken all over2 if the fire is too fierce1 put it back a short distance1 that it may roast of a yellowish-brown color2 when a light smoke arises from the chicken1 which will be in about twenty minutes from the time it was put down1 it is done2 but to be quite sure whether a bird is done1 the better way is to press it lightly1 with your finger and thumb2 should it feel quite set1 it is sufficiently cooked4 #abf4 ,boiled ,chicken4--,put a quart of water to boil in a saucepan1 with a saltspoonful of salt1 and two ounces of butter2 when boiling1 lay in the chicken1 which keep gently simmering for twenty minutes1 when it will be done4 ,by adding a few vegetables of each description to the water1 and straining it when you take out the chicken1 you have a very excellent broth either for the sick or healthy1 especially after skimming off the fat you add a little vermicelli1 which must be boiled in it five minutes4 ,as it is very improbable that a sick person would eat the whole of a chicken at once1 ,i have annexed a few receipts1 by which a chicken would suffice for four meals4 ,first1 put a tablespoonful of rice in a stewpan1 with half a pint of light broth2 let it boil gently until the rice is in pulp1 then put in the wing or leg of the previously-cooked chicken1 which let remain to warm about five minutes2 should the rice be too dry1 add a little more broth2 serve the fowl and rice together upon a hot plate4 ,secondly1 if wanted plain1 set it in a stewpan1 with a few spoonfuls of stock1 and let it warm gently4 ,thirdly1 it may be folded in a sheet of paper lightly oiled1 and warmed very gently upon a gridiron4 ,or fourthly1 plain broiled upon a gridiron1 and served with a little light gravy4 #abg4 ,partridge4--,proceed in every manner to roast as just directed for the chicken2 a young one would require about ten minutes1 or an old one fifteen1 but then the breast only ought to be eaten2 whatever remains may be served in either of the ways directed for chickens4 #abh4 ,pigeons may be roasted the same as partridges1 but would not require so long4 ,a pigeon may also be stewed as follows3--,put half a pint of mutton-broth into a stewpan1 with a pigeon trussed as for boiling1 let it stew gently twenty minutes1 if young2 both the pigeon and broth ought to be partaken of4 ,pigeons may also be broiled1 by cutting them open from the bottom of the breast to the joint of the wings1 but not separating them2 rub over with a little butter1 broil twenty minutes over a moderate fire1 and serve with a little gravy4 #abi4 ,pulled ,fowl4--,with the remainder of a roast or boiled fowl or chicken you may make a very light dish1 by pulling off all the flesh with a fork1 and putting it into a stewpan1 then in another stewpan place all the bones 7previously broken small with a chopper71 with a little parsley1 salt1 sugar1 and half a pint of water2 let it boil gently until the water has reduced to a gill1 then strain it over the flesh of the chicken in the other stewpan1 which place over the fire until quite hot1 and serve2 should it be too thin1 a small piece of butter and flour rubbed together may be added1 and boiled a minute4 ,old or young fowls may be used1 as it is not always convenient to get a young fowl1 especially in the country1 where everything must be turned to account and properly used3 you would proceed with an old fowl the same as for a chicken1 but stewing it three times as much1 and adding more water in proportion2 it would be here impossible to name the exact time required1 as the fluctuation is so great1 but by feeling the thigh of the fowl with the finger and thumb1 you may ascertain1 for if done sufficiently it will feel tender to the touch1 and leave the bone with ease4 ,,culinary ,,correspondence4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,vi ,,dearest ,,eloise1--,i here inclose you the last receipt which ,i intend to give you for invalids4 ,you will1 no doubt1 fancy that my diet is extravagant2 but let me teach you that when you must pay the doctor's bill1 which ,i consider an extra and painful tax upon humanity1 it is ours and their duty to try to restore health as soon as possible1 which my receipts might1 if well coupled with the science of a medical man1 cause a prompt restoration1 and have the desired effect of increasing the butcher's bill by diminishing that of the doctor4 ,but ,i must also tell you that ,i intend this part of our little work1 if ever published1 to be useful to all classes of society1 and that1 among those receipts1 the rich as well as the humble1 may partake and benefit by them in selecting according to their means and their requirements4 ,i am confident that you will agree with me that even here ,i have closely studied the rules of economy4 ,i shall therefore close the sick-room door to open the one of the parlor1 and to witness the merry faces of the million who have abandoned their industrious occupations for the day1 and partake1 in the family circle1 their simple but substantial ,sunday meal4 ,i always used to say1 when in business1 that he who works well deserves to live well1--,i do not mean to say extravagantly1 but that devoting one hour a day to their principal meal ought to be classified as a matter of business in regard to economy4 ,we1 therefore1 must be very positive upon this important question1 and make them perceive that dining well once or twice a week is really unworthy of such a civilized and wealthy country as ours1 where provisions cannot be excelled by any other1 both in regard to quantity and quality4 ,yours1 etc4 ,,hortense4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,vii ,,my ,,dear ,,mrs4 ,b4--,your observation upon the way many people live in this country is no doubt very correct1 but do you not think that if you were not quite so abrupt on the subject1 we should probably be more likely to succeed in bringing our friends round to your style of management2 of which1 for my part1 ,i very much approve4 ,but as it is a matter of importance1 ,i should like you to describe in your next communication what are the principal and most useful joints in a family1 and to discourse on them1 in pointing out the good which may be achieved1 and the evils to be avoided4 ,ever yours1 c4 ,,eloise4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,viii ,many compliments to you1 my dear ,mrs4 ,l4 ,at your request ,i here inclose the list you require1 and which will show you how circumscribed the middle classes are in respect to the variation of their meals1 in the way of meat and manner of cooking it4 ,i do not disapprove of your idea in wishing me here to give a series or list of those provisions2 but1 on the other hand1 ,i must tell you frankly my opinion1 it being a subject which for some years ,i have made a study1 indeed quite a hobby4 ,if ,i am wrong1 let any one who knows better correct me2 you will allow ,i am always open to conviction and improvement1 no matter how trifling1 which often leads to an important one4 ,i shall therefore name all joints of meat which1 though numerous1 offer but little variation when continually dressed the same way1 and observe that everybody has the bad habit of running only upon a few which are considered the best4 ,they are as follow3 ,those in beef are the sirloin1 ribs1 round1 silver-side1 aitch-bone4 ,in mutton--leg1 saddle1 haunch1 loin4 ,lamb--fore-quarter and leg4 ,veal--fillet1 loin4 ,pork--leg1 sparerib1 loin4 ,every one of these joints are of the most expensive parts1 because generally used1 although many of the other parts are equally as good1 as ,i shall prove to you1 in the receipts which ,i shall write for the dinner1 what can be done in the way of made dishes out of those parts which are rarely or never used in this country by the middle classes1 which will more clearly develope to you my ideas on the subject ,besides1 there is this advantage1 that if a small tradesman were to follow these receipts1 and buy every other time he goes to the butcher what he now considers a second-class joint1 he would not only be conferring a public benefit1 but also one on himself1 and be the means of diminishing the price of those now considered the first class1 which at the present moment bear too high a price in proportion1 but which his pride causes him to purchase4 ,to prove to you that my argument is correct1 look carefully over the inclosed list1 which contains all the joints that are cut from beef1 veal1 mutton1 lamb1 pork1 and you will find that ten of the prime are in daily use to one of the other1 and principally for a want of the knowledge of cookery2 leaving the science of cooking our food to a fierce or slow fire1 or plunging our expensive provisions into an ocean of boiling water1 which is thrown away1 after having absorbed a great portion of the succulence of the meat4 ,try the receipt for the ,pot-au-feu2 taste the broth and eat the meat1 and tell me which plan you consider the best4 ,do not think that ,i object to our plain joint1 because1 now and then1 ,i am rather partial to them2 but why not manage to make use of the broth1 by diminishing the quantity of water1 and simmering them1 instead of galloping them at a special railway-train speed8 ,were the middle classes only but slightly acquainted with the domestic cookery of ,france1 they would certainly live better and less expensively than at present1 very often1 four or five different little made dishes may be made from the remains of a large ,sunday's joint1 instead of its appearing on the table of a wealthy tradesman for several days cold1 and often unsightly1 and backed by a bottle of variegated-colored pickles1 made with pyroligneous acid1 which sets my teeth on edge merely in thinking of it1 and balanced by a steaming dish of potatoes1 which1 seen through the parlor window by the customers in the shop1 would make them think there was a grand gastronomic festivity taking place at ,mr4 ,a4's or ,b4's1 the butterman or greengrocer2 this may be excusable once or twice1 on a hot summer's day1 with an inviting salad1 seasoned with merely salt1 pepper1 oil1 and vinegar1 but the continual repetition of that way of living in winter is1 ,i consider1 a domestic crime4 ,you will1 perhaps1 say that1 in large firms1 where forty or fifty1 or more young men dine every day1 or even in public establishments still more numerous1 many professed cooks would be required to dress the dinner1 if my plan was adopted2 not at all1 if the kitchen is properly constructed3 but in these establishments1 joints1 of necessity1 must be the principal viand1 and there is very little left2 what there is1 is consumed cold for supper2 but even there an amelioration might take place1 although only a plain joint1 either boiled or roasted1 roasted or boiled1 which is generally the yearly bill of fare1 and so simple1 yet seldom well done1 and often badly1 which1 in a large establishment1 must create great waste1 and make bad food out of good meat1 and that for want of care or a little more knowledge1 which may appear to you but a trifling matter1 but not so to thousands of poor old people1 with toothless gums and fatigued stomachs1 made comfortable within walls erected by the good feelings of government1 or by public charity4 ,i have often thought1 when visiting these establishments1 that a professed cook ought to be appointed1 as well as a medical man1 to visit all such in the metropolis1 not only to inspect the quality of the provisions1 but superintend the arrangements of the dietary table1 and see that the viands are properly cooked1 and thus correct the lamentable ignorance which exists at the present day2 ,i am confident that tons of meat are daily wasted in such institutions throughout the country1 which1 if well employed1 would feed a great part of the starving poor of the ,united ,kingdom4 ,the same system ought to be adopted in all the provincial towns2 and1 if it was in existence1 we should not have to deplore such lamentable scenes which we had latterly to witness at ,tooting1 where1 no doubt1 many were to blame2 for1 by the calculation ,i have made1 the allowance1 though rather limited1 was amply large enough to allow for good provisions1 and leave sufficient remuneration for any reasonable and not covetous man4 ,why should not these poor children be watched over1 and made as comfortable in every respect as the wish of those who pay to support them require8 besides1 it has an effect upon after generations2 for upon the food at the period of growth depends the nature of the mind at a more advanced age1 as well as the stature of the man4 ,do we not evince our care to objects of the brute creation1 and feed1 with the greatest attention1 the race-horse8 compare him with others of his species not so humanely treated1 and note the difference3 so it is with the human race2 and ,i might almost say the prosperity of a country depends upon the food of its youth4 ,you will perhaps think that ,i am rather sharp in my remarks1 and probably longer than is required1 but still it will be gratifying to both of us1 should we find that these remarks prove beneficial to such establishments as above-mentioned2 and it is only by giving notoriety to these important details1 and being positive in exposing the truth1 that we can be believed and followed1 and you must not mind displeasing the few1 if you are to be useful to the many4 ,forever1 c4 ,,hortense4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,ix ,,my ,,dear ,,hortense1--,after the receipt of your last observations1 which1 on first seeing1 ,i thought too long1 but after having read them over again1 ,i am convinced that ,i shall not be able to shorten them2 at all events1 there is a great deal of truth in them1 and1 as you justly say1 they are the observations of a person who has constantly studied domestic comfort and economy2 ,i shall therefore copy them in the journal just as you send them to me4 ,truly yours1 ,,eloise4 ,,letter ,no4 ,x ,,my ,,dear ,,eloise1--,i am glad to hear that you will not alter any of my last copy sent1 because ,i assure you ,i wrote with a full conviction that ,i was right1 and from facts which experience alone can engrave on the memory2 but1 however1 we will now proceed3 but ,i think it will be necessary to alter our original intention1 namely1 in order to save any confusion1 to class all the receipts for the dinner together1 and thus form a large bill of fare1 and follow1 on a small plan1 what ,m4 ,soyer1 of the ,reform ,club1 has done on a large scale1 in his ',gastronomic ,regenerator1' by which the most inexperienced hands may easily provide a large or small dinner adapted for all classes1 without committing a blunder1 and thus make a selection from soups1 different dishes of fish1 and an innumerable number of removes2 entres1 roasts1 savory dishes1 vegetables1 sweets1 dessert1 c41 and having chosen one or two of each series1 and1 on referring to the receipt1 an idea of their cost1 within a few pence of the market-price1 may be gained4 ,let me know1 dear1 by return of post1 if you approve of my new idea1 as it is rather deviating from our original one2 but observe1 that having so very distinctly given the ,breakfast ,receipts1 and also for ,invalids1 it will be more clearly understood than by repeating the same over and over again1 which would be unavoidable if following our first proposition4 ,yours truly1 in haste1 ,,hortense4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,xi ,,my ,,dear ,,hortense1--,never were you inspired by a better idea respecting your new plan2 it is so clearly explained1 that ,i fancy our labor is over2 but ,i must tell you that1 on the receipt of your last1 ,i wrote to ,m4 ,soyer1 to inquire if he would object to our taking a few hints from his ,kitchen at ,home1 which forms the last part of his work4 ,his answer was immediate1 short1 and as follows3 ,,dear ,,madam1--,it would be entirely deviating from the preface of my ',gastronomic ,regenerator' to refuse you anything in my power2 and as your simple demand lies within that scope1 you are quite welcome to take a few hints1 if you require them for your little work1 from the part entitled ',my ,kitchen at ,home4' ,wishing your exertions may be well appreciated1 ,i am1 dear madam1 most sincerely1 your humble and devoted1 ,reform ,club4 ,a4 ,,soyer4 ,as you have his book1 you1 no doubt1 know to which part he alludes4 ,he says1 in his preface1 that he has made it a rule never to refuse ladies anything in his power2 so far he has kept his word with us3 so you may1 dearest1 if you require1 make use of his offer4 ,i shall expect1 by the next post1 the commencement of the ,dinner ,receipts1 which ,i am confident you will make as simple and as short as possible4 ,with kindest regards1 yours1 ,,eloise4 ,roasting1 ,baking1 ,boiling1 ,stewing1 ,braising1 ,frying1 ,sauting1 ,broiling4 ,,roasting being the most general in use1 we will first describe it1 although not that which was first put in practice in cooking1 it being evidently an improvement on broiling3 we can easily understand how1 in the early primitive times1 man1 finding that his food got covered with the ashes with which he cooked his meat1 he would invent a species of grate upon which he could raise the fire1 and cook his meat before it3 this primitive mode of cooking has lasted1 in many countries1 up to the present day1 and even in ,london to within a few years2 for ,i remember seeing1 in the old ,goldsmith's ,hall1 a fire-place1 consisting of stages1 on which was laid the wood1 and when the meat1 c41 was spitted and arranged before it1 the wood was lighted1 and a man turned the spits4 7,it was1 no doubt1 from arranging the wood thus in stages that the name of range was derived47 ,in many noblemen's castles and ecclesiastical establishments1 dogs were kept to turn the spit1 from whence we have those of the name of turnspit2 whilst in others1 where there happened to be a person of a mechanical turn of mind1 they applied a water-wheel to the purpose1 and the water from it formed a stream in the kitchen1 which served as a reservoir for live fish4 ,different opinions exist as to the mode and time required for roasting1 but this must all depend upon the nature of the fire and the meat4 ,in the ,receipts will be found the time which each requires4 ,my plan is to make up as large a fire as the nature of the grate will allow1 because ,i can place my joint near or not1 as may be required1 and thus obtain every degree of heat4 ,,baking is a branch of the art of cooking which1 although one of the oldest1 is the least understood4 7,as ,i shall have to refer to this subject again1 ,i will give the reason why in a future letter47 ,it is performed in various kinds of air-tight chambers1 called ovens1 the best of which have the same form as in the time of the ,egyptians4 ,previous to the art of baking being practised1 boiled pulse and corn were the food of the people2 even ,rome contained no bakers until near six hundred years after it was founded4 ,of late years1 great improvements have been made in the construction of ovens for baking of meat1 called roasting ovens1 which cause great economy in the expenditure of fuel2 and1 in large public establishments1 where a number of the same kind of joints are required1 it is the best plan of cooking4 ,in the ,receipts will be found the time required by each for baking1 but1 in a general way1 for meat1 hot ovens are the best2 for poultry1 not so hot as meat2 and pastry1 according to its kind4 ,in using dishes or utensils for the oven1 they ought1 if of metal1 to be of galvanized iron1 and separate ones for meat and fish4 ,,boiling is the next branch of the art which is of the most importance and appears the most simple1 yet1 at the same time1 the most difficult1 and is a subject upon which1 if ,i were to dilate1 would occupy a good quarto volume2 it is one of those easy things which it is supposed everybody can do1 and therefore no attention is paid to it1 and it is generally done badly4 ,according to the way in which it is done1 meat may be rendered hard and tough or tender1 lose or retain its flavor or nourishment2 great difference of opinion exists amongst medical men which are the easiest of digestion--roasted or boiled meats4 ,i say it is a subject quite impossible to decide1 as it must depend upon the different constitutions and climate2 for we might as well say that the food of the ,esquimaux is adapted for the native of ,italy4 ,,stewing ought to be the best understood1 on account of its economy2 pieces of coarse meat1 subjected to stewing1 if properly done1 become tender1 as the gelatinous parts become partly dissolved2 it should be done slowly1 the pan partly uncovered1 and frequently skimmed4 ,great cleanliness should be observed in all the vessels used for stewing4 ,,braising is the next and most important part of the art of cooking1 and1 like the saut1 belongs entirely to the ,french school1 from whom it takes its name1 braise being the remains of wood burnt in the oven1 or live charcoal3 and as this plan of cookery requires the action of the fire under and over the braising-pan1 which is air-tight1 in order that the aromatic flavor arising from its contents may be imbibed by the meat or poultry1 and give it that succulence so much esteemed by epicures4 ,the braise is put on the cover1 which1 in some cases1 is made deep on purpose to hold it4 ,its origin is stated to be owing to a gastronomic society which was formerly in existence in ,paris1 whose object was to benefit and improve the art of cookery1 and who offered a reward of a silver gridiron to any culinary artist who would discover a new mode of dressing a turkey4 ,although a gridiron was1 no doubt1 intended to be used1 yet a young artist named ,la ,gacque1 warmed by the offer1 directed his imagination to quite a different mode1 and used the pan instead of the gridiron1 and thus composed the braise1 which was unanimously approved of by that scientific1 gastronomic1 and epicurean body1 who awarded him the prize4 ,the chief art in braising is to do it slowly1 taking care that the ingredients are well-proportioned1 receipts for which will be found in their proper place4 ,,frying4--,of all the apparently simple modes of cookery there is none more so than that of frying1 but yet how rare to meet with it done properly4 ,i believe it is to be attributed1 in a great measure1 to the idea that1 to do it well is expensive4 ,i have therefore made a series of experiments upon a plan such as should be followed in every private house1 and ,i am convinced that to do it well is cheaper than doing it badly2 but1 in the first place1 we ought to consider1 ,what is frying8 ,it is the insertion of any substance into boiling oil1 or grease1 by which the surface of that substance becomes carbonized1 and the heat which effects this object is sufficient to solidify the albumen and gelatine1 or1 more commonly speaking1 cooked2 to do this properly1 the substance ought to be covered by the liquid1 so that the heat acts all over it at the same time1 or otherwise the osmazome1 or gravy1 will be dried out of that part which is not covered1 and the succulence and flavor of the viand lost2 or1 should the liquid not be of that degree of heat which would carbonize the surface on the moment of its immersion1 it would then enter into the substance1 render it greasy1 and destroy its flavor1 which no degree of heat afterwards could remedy4 ,those articles which are fried are generally those which have a coating of materials 7such as bread-crumbs and batter7 which are quickly carbonized1 and thus form a crust which prevents the grease penetrating1 concentrates the liquids1 and preserves the flavor of the article2 the carbonization once effected1 the fire should be immediately moderated1 particularly if the article is large1 in order that the interior may become properly solidified4 ,all articles properly fried are generally much liked1 as they are agreeable to the eye1 and afford a pleasing variety4 ,the plan that ,i recommend you to adopt is1 to obtain an iron or copper pan long enough for a good-sized sole1 and #f to #h inches deep1 and fill three to four inches of it with fat--the skimmings of the stock-pot1 or1 if that should not be sufficient1 the kidney-fat of beef1 cut up1 melted1 and strained4 ,in wealthy establishments1 lard1 and1 in some1 bacon-fat melted is used1 and1 for some articles1 olive oil1 which can only be used once2 but in our less luxurious homes ,i think the above is sufficient1 besides1 it has the advantage of not requiring that great attention which the other does4 ,when you have the fat on1 before immersing the substance you intend to fry1 see that it is sufficiently hot by dipping your finger 7not in the fat71 but in a little water1 and then hold it over the fat1 so that a few drops go into it2 if it spits and throws back the water1 it is sufficiently hot3 or1 throw in a small dice of bread and take it out immediately2 if it is firm or colored1 it is hot enough3 or1 in frying of fish1 before putting it in1 lay hold of the head and dip the end of the tail1 and1 if it crisps it1 then let the remainder go in4 ,i have found1 if due attention is paid to the pan to prevent it from burning1 forty articles may be fried in it before it wants renewing2 and ,i am certain it will be found cheaper than the common way of putting a little fat into the frying-pan and turning the sole over and over1 for you are then almost certain of sending the grease up to the table1 where it is not wanted4 ,when the fat is not used1 it should be emptied1 whilst hot1 through a sieve1 into an earthen pipkin1 and covered with paper to prevent the dust going in it4 ,for the purpose of frying1 an iron wire-basket1 with a handle1 is used1 in which the object to be cooked is placed1 and thus inserted in the liquid4 ,the cost of this instrument is trifling4 ,,sauteing4--,you will perceive1 dearest1 by the following1 that the word fried is often wrongly used in cookery instead of the word saut1 which process is totally different1 and produces quite another effect on food4 ,saut means anything cooked in a very small quantity of butter1 oil1 lard1 or fat1 one side of the article at a time1 whilst the other requires about #ajj times more of the above-named materials to cook properly4 ,you will see1 in these remarks1 that it is not frying a pancake1 omelette1 or still less a chop1 steak1 or cutlet1 but that they are sautd2 and how to explain that word1 to use it instead of the misapplied word fry1 puzzles me considerably1 as ,i am quite ignorant of its origin as regards its application to cookery4 ,all the researches ,i have made in ,english and ,french ,dictionaries and ,encyclopdias1 have not enlightened me in the least on the subject4 ,in ,french1 it means to jump1 hop1 skip1 understood by our boys at school1 as well as by the grasshopper tribe1 called in ,french sauterelles1 from the word sauter1 to jump4 ,i well remember at school we had a ,french emigr for a dancing-master1 who used to get into a passion when we did not dance to his professional taste2 and used to say1 in shaking his powdered wig1 as holding his fiddle in one hand and his bow in the other1 making all kinds of grimaces and contortions1 which used to remind me of the principal figure in the group of the ,laocoon1--,mon dieu1 mon dieu1 young miss1 vous sautez trs bien1 mais vous dansez fort mal2 which means1 ,you jump very well1 but you dance very badly4 ,it also reminds me of an expression made by a friend of ours from ,havre1 who was on a visit to us last ,november4 ,seeing some ,guy ,fawkes carried about the street1 he asked me what it meant2 when ,i told him1 that in the year #afje1 an attempt was made to destroy by gunpowder the ,king and ,parliament in the ,house of ,lords1 as well as----4 ,oui1 oui1 madame1 ,i know1 ,i remember reading of it in ,english history2 it was that little brute qui a voulut faire sauter le ,parlement1 replied he very quickly4 ,sauter1 sauter1 ,i said2 no1 sir1 not saut--blow up4 ,oui1 oui1 madame1 ,i know1 it is the same thing4 ,same thing1 replied ,i4 ,this of course puzzled my culinary imagination still more2 and ,i perceived1 that if the word was translated to his meaning1 it would sound most absurd and ridiculous2 as1 for example1 on being at a festive board1 and a polite young gentleman1 or even your own husband1 might gallantly offer to give you a blow-up cutlet1 instead of a cotelette saut1 as they say in fashionable circles4 ,i can easily conceive1 that if the cotelette was blown up1 it would stand a chance of coming down on the other side1 thus saving the cook the trouble2 but if ,guy ,fawkes had unfortunately succeeded1 it would have produced quite another effect4 ,having failed in my literary researches1 ,i tried to find it in practice4 ,i therefore went to my kitchen1 and put two spoonfuls of oil in a sautpan2 ,i took a nice spring chicken prepared for broiling1 put on the fire2 and1 as it began to act upon it1 the oil began to jump1 and also slightly the chicken4 ,i then perceived that the way my ,french friend used the word was right2 and that1 after all1 there was not such a great difference in ,guy ,fawkes's plan of cooking the ,parliament and that of a cutlet or chicken1 for both were doomed to destruction1 the one by falling in awful ruins on the fire1 and the other devoured by a ravenous stomach on the dinner-table4 ,now1 dearest1 having found no means of translating it to my satisfaction1 ,i see no other plan but to adopt it amongst us1 and give it letters of naturalization1 not for the beauty of the word1 but for its utility4 ,the process of sauting is at once quick1 simple1 and economical1 and to be well done furnishes a pleasing article of food4 ,the art of doing it well consists in doing it quickly1 to keep the gravy and succulence in the meat1 which a slow process would nullify1 and is of course confined to small articles of every kind of food4 ,,broiling is1 without doubt1 the earliest and most primitive mode of cookery1 it being that which would present itself to man in a state of nature4 ,it is one of the easiest parts of cookery1 and therefore should be done well2 it entirely depends upon the fire1 which must be exceedingly clear1 and the best gridiron is that having round bars1 which should be placed slanting over the fire1 to prevent the fat going into it2 the bars should be greased1 and the gridiron should be placed on the fire to get hot before the object to be cooked is placed on it ,i have heard that great difference of opinion exists in cookery books upon the proper broiling of a steak1 if it should be turned only once or often4 ,my plan is to turn it often1 and my reason is1 that1 if turned but once1 the albumen and the fibrine of the meat get charred1 and the heat throws out the osmazome or gravy on the upper side1 which1 when turned over1 goes into the fire2 by turning it often1 so as at first only to set the outside1 the gravy goes into the centre1 and it becomes evenly done throughout4 7,see ,soyer's ,mutton ,chop47 ,as regards the thickness of the meat to be broiled1 that depends in a great measure on the intensity of the fire1 but the quicker the better1 and also the sooner it is eaten after taken from the fire the better4 ,i have latterly1 in broiling rump-steaks1 added that which1 by a great many1 is considered an improvement2 it is1 on turning them the last time1 to dredge them out of a dredger with fine holes1 in which has been placed four tablespoonfuls of fine biscuit or rusk-powder1 one tablespoonful of salt1 one teaspoonful of pepper1 a saltspoonful of either eschalot-powder or mushroom-powder1 or finely-pulverized salts of celery1 well mixed together1 and the steak to be placed in a very hot dish1 with a little mushroom-ketchup and a small piece of butter1 and served immediately4 ,,sauces4 ,sauces in cookery are like the first rudiments of grammar1 which consists of certain rules called ,syntax1 which is the foundation of all languages3 these fundamental rules are nine1 so has cookery the same number of sauces1 which are the foundation of all others2 but these1 like its prototype the grammar1 have two--brown and white1 which bear a resemblance to the noun and verb1 as they are the first and most easily learnt1 and most constantly in use2 the others are the adjuncts1 pronouns1 adverbs1 and interjections2 upon the proper use of the two principal ones depends the quality of all others1 and the proper making of which tends to the enjoyment of the dinner2 for to my fancy they are to cookery what the gamut is in the composition of music1 as it is by the arrangement of the notes that harmony is produced1 so should the ingredients in the sauce be so nicely blended1 and that delightful concord should exist1 which would equally delight the palate1 as a masterpiece of a ,mozart or a ,rossini should delight the ear2 but which1 if badly executed1 tantalize those nervous organs1 affect the whole system1 and prove a nuisance instead of a pleasure4 ,i will therefore be very precise in describing the two1 in order that when you make them1 you will not cause your guests to make grimaces at each other1 when partaking of them at your festive board1 for the present age is a little more refined than at the time of ,dr4 ,johnson1 and we are often obliged to swallow what we do not like2 for it is reported of him1 that being at a ceremonious dinner-party1 and indulging in his usual flow of wit1 he unconsciously partook of a spoonful of very hot soup1 which he immediately returned to the plate he had taken it from2 and observing the astonishment of some of his neighbors1 he very coolly remarked1 ,a fool would have burnt his mouth4 ,when we are at home alone1 ,i very seldom trouble myself by making white or brown sauce1 which ,i can avoid by selecting simplified dishes1 which easily produce their own sauce whilst cooking them4 ,but when ,i expect a little company1 the first ,i order of my cook is to make me half of the quantity of the following receipts for white and brown sauces3-- #acj4 ,white ,sauce4--,cut and chop a knuckle of veal1 weighing about four pounds1 into large dice2 also half a pound of lean bacon2 butter the bottom of a large stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter1 add two onions1 a small carrot1 a turnip1 three cloves1 half a blade of mace1 a bouquet of a bay-leaf1 a sprig of thyme1 and six of parsley1 add a gill of water1 place over a sharp fire1 stirring round occasionally1 until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with whitish glaze1 when fill up with three quarts of water1 add a good teaspoonful of salt1 and let simmer at the corner of the fire an hour and a half1 keeping well skimmed1 when pass it through a hair sieve into a basin2 in another stewpan put a quarter of a pound of butter1 with which mix six ounces of flour1 stirring over the fire about three minutes1 take off1 keep stirring until partly cold1 when add the stock all at once1 continually stirring and boiling for a quarter of an hour2 add half a pint of boiling milk1 stir a few minutes longer1 add a little chopped mushrooms if handy1 pass through a hair sieve into a basin1 until required for use1 stirring it round occasionally until cold2 the above being a simplified white sauce1 will be referred to very often in the receipts4 #aca4 ,brown ,sauce4--,put two ounces of butter into a stewpan1 rub it over the bottom1 peel two or three large onions1 cut them in thick slices1 lay them on the bottom1 cut into small pieces about two pounds of knuckle of veal1#c all meat1 or three pounds if with bone1 a quarter of a pound of lean bacon cut small1 two cloves1 a few peppercorns1 a tablespoonful of salt1 two bay-leaves1 a gill of water2 set it on a brisk fire1 let it remain ten minutes1 when stir it well round1 subdue the fire1 let it remain a few minutes longer1 and stir now and then until it has a nice brown color2 fill your pan with three quarts of water2 when boiling1 set it on the corner of the stove1 with the lid three parts on the saucepan2 when boiling1 skim fat and all2 after one hour1 or one hour and a half simmering1 pass it through a sieve into a basin4 ,to make the thickening or roux for it1 proceed as follows3--,put two ounces of butter into a pan1 which melt on a slow fire1 then add three ounces of flour1 stir it until getting a thin deep yellow color2 this in ,france is called roux1 being very useful in cookery1 and will be often referred to in these receipts4 ,this process will take five minutes1 when remove from the fire for two minutes to cool1 then add at once three and a quarter pints of the above stock1 very quickly set it on the fire to boil1 remove to corner to simmer1 and skim2 it ought to be entirely free from grease1 and of a light chestnut color4 #acb4 ,demi-,glaze--,thin ,brown ,sauce for ,made ,dishes4--,when ,i have a small dinner-party1 ,i always1 as ,i told you before1 make small quantities of white and brown sauce as above1 but this is a nice way of clarifying a brown sauce without much trouble1 and makes it a beautiful transparent brown color3 but although ,i have made it quite a study1 that each entre1 or made dish for daily use1 should make its own sauce1 yet ,i must impress upon you that this sauce is the real key to cooking a good and ceremonious dinner4 ,put a pint of brown sauce in a middle-sized stewpan1 add to it half a pint of broth or consomm1 put it on the stove1 stir with wooden spoon1 let it boil as fast as possible1 take the scum off which will rise to the surface1 reduce it until it adheres lightly to the spoon1 pass it through a sieve or tammy into a basin1 stir now and then until cold1 to prevent a skin forming on the top1 put it by until wanted for use4 ,it will keep for a week in winter1 by adding half a gill of white broth every other day1 and giving it a boil2 the addition of a tablespoonful of tomatos1 gives it a beautiful color2 use where indicated4 #acc4 ,thin ,brown ,sauce of ,mushrooms4--,put twelve tablespoonfuls of thin brown sauce in a small stewpan to boil1 then have six or eight small mushrooms well cleaned and washed1 chop them fine1 and place in sauce1 and boil for five minutes2 taste if it is to your liking2 the addition of a little sugar is an improvement3 a little cayenne1 if liked1 may be introduced4 ,this sauce is good for cutlets1 broiled fowl and game1 c4 #acd4 ,eschalot ,sauce4--,chop fine about a good tablespoonful of eschalot1 wash them by placing them in the corner of a napkin1 and pouring water over them2 press them until dry1 put them in a small stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar1 one clove1 a little mace2 boil two minutes1 add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze1 boil a little longer1 add a little sugar1 and serve4 #ace4 ,piquant ,sauce4--,put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions1 or eschalots1 cleaned as above1 into a stewpan2 put also four tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a bay-leaf1 and boil2 then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce1 half a one of chopped parsley1 ditto of green gherkins2 boil five minutes1 skim1 add a little sugar1 taste if well seasoned1 take out bay-leaf and serve4 #acf4 ,tarragon ,sauce4--,put eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze1 and four of broth1 into a stewpan2 boil for a few minutes1 add a tablespoonful of vinegar1 have ready picked twenty leaves of fresh tarragon1 put in to simmer two minutes1 and serve with any kind of poultry1 but especially spring chickens4 #acg4 ,brown ,cucumber ,sauce4--,peel a small fresh cucumber1 cut it in neat pieces1 put in a stewpan with a little sugar1 add half an ounce of butter1 set it on a slow fire1 stir it now and then1 add twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce1 and four of broth2 let it simmer till tender1 skim the butter off1 remove the cucumbers into another stewpan1 reduce the sauce a little1 taste it and serve4 #ach4 ,mince ,herb ,sauce4--,put two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onions in a stewpan1 add a tablespoonful of oil1 place it on the fire1 stir a few minutes1 add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze and four of broth or water2 boil1 skim2 if too thick1 and the scum should not rise1 add half a gill of broth or water2 boil1 and reduce to a proper thickness1 and add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley if handy1 one of mushrooms1 and season with a little cayenne1 the juice of a quarter of a lemon2 serve4 ,i often introduce a little garlic in this4 #aci4 ,italian ,herb ,sauce4--,proceed in the same way as the above1 only add a little chopped thyme and a small glass of sherry4 #adj4 ,robert ,sauce4--,peel and cut up two good-sized onions1 put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter till they are a nice yellow color1 then add eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze1 and two of water or broth2 skim1 boil quick2 when a proper thickness1 add a good tablespoonful of ,french mustard2 season it rather high2 if no ,french mustard1 use ,english1 but it completely changes the flavor1 though still very palatable4 #ada4 ,ravigote ,sauce4--,put in a stewpan one middle-sized onion sliced1 with a little carrot1 a little thyme1 bay-leaf1 one clove1 a little mace1 a little scraped horseradish1 a little butter1 fry a few minutes1 then add three teaspoonfuls of vinegar1 ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce1 four of broth2 when boiling1 skim1 add a tablespoonful of currant jelly2 when melted1 pass all through a tammy1 and serve with any kind of meat or poultry2 with hare or venison it is excellent4 #adb4 ,brown ,mushroom ,sauce4--,clean and cut twelve small mushrooms in slices1 place them in a stewpan with a little butter1 salt1 pepper1 the juice of a quarter of a lemon1 set it on a slow fire for a few minutes1 then add ten spoonfuls of demi-glaze2 boil till they are tender1 and serve4 ,a little mushroom catsup may be introduced4 #adc4 ,orange ,sauce for ,game4--,peel half an orange1 removing all the pith2 cut it into slices1 and then in fillets2 put them in a gill of water to boil for two minutes2 drain them on a sieve1 throwing the water away2 place in the stewpan ten spoonfuls of demi-glaze1 or two of broth2 and1 when boiling1 add the orange1 a little sugar1 simmer ten minutes1 skim1 and serve4 ,the juice of half an orange is an improvement4 ,this is served with ducklings and waterfowl3 those that like may add cayenne and mustard4 #add4 ,garlic ,sauce4--,though many dislike the flavor of this root1 yet those that like it ought not to be deprived of it4 ,put in a stewpan ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze1 a little tomatos if handy2 boil it a few minutes1 scrape half a clove of garlic1 put it in with a little sugar1 and serve4 #ade4 ,mint ,sauce for ,lamb4--,take three tablespoonfuls of chopped leaves of green mint1 three tablespoonfuls of brown sugar1 and put into a basin with half a pint of brown vinegar2 stir it well up1 add one saltspoonful of salt1 and serve4 #adf4 ,liaison of ,eggs4--,break the yolks of three eggs in a basin1 with which mix six spoonfuls of milk1 or eight of cream2 pass it through a fine sieve1 and use when directed4 #adg4 ,anchovy ,butter ,sauce4--,put into a stewpan eight spoonfuls of demi-glaze1 or three of broth2 when boiling1 add one ounce of anchovy butter2 stir continually till melted3 serve where directed4 #adh4 ,soyer's ,sauce4--,put six spoonfuls of demi-glaze into a stewpan2 when hot1 add four spoonfuls of ,soyer's ,gentleman's ,sauce2 let boil1 and serve with either chop1 steak1 cotelettes1 poultry1 or game4 #adi4 ,papillotte ,sauce4--,scrape half an ounce of fat bacon1 put it in a pan with four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions1 stir over the fire for a few minutes1 then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce1 and boil2 then add a tablespoonful of mushrooms chopped1 one ditto of parsley1 a little nutmeg1 a little pepper and sugar1 a little scraped garlic2 reduce till rather thickish2 put on dish till cold1 and use it for anything you may put up en papillotte4 #aej4 ,tomato ,sauce4--,if fresh1 put six in a stewpan2 having removed the stalk1 and squeezed them in the hand to remove pips1 c41 add half an onion1 sliced1 a little thyme1 bay-leaf1 half an ounce of celery1 one ounce of ham1 same of butter1 teaspoonful of sugar1 same of salt1 a quarter one of pepper2 set on fire to stew gently2 when all tender1 add a tablespoonful of flour1 moisten with half a pint of broth1 boil five minutes1 add a little cayenne1 taste if highly seasoned1 pass it through sieve or tammy1 put it back in stewpan1 until it adheres rather thick to the back of the spoon1 and use it for any kind of meat or poultry4 ,if preserved tomato1 proceed as for poivrade sauce respecting the vegetables1 omitting the vinegar1 add the tomato1 instead of brown sauce1 add a tablespoonful of flour and broth to bring it to a proper thickness1 and pass it through a sieve1 and serve as above4 #aea4 ,curry ,sauce4--,this ,i generally keep ready-made in the larder1 being very fond of what ,i consider such wholesome food as curry2 but not liking to be troubled with making it often1 ,i cause my cook to prepare a certain quantity at a time4 ,mr4 ,b4 is very partial to curry1 but he likes it in winter2 for my part1 ,i prefer it in summer4 ,after having partaken of some one very hot summer's day1 ,i felt quite cool4 ,capt4 ,white1 who has been nearly twenty years in the ,east ,indies1 tells me that it will produce that refreshing effect2 but ,i can enjoy it in any season4 ,put into a pan four good-sized onions1 sliced1 and two of peeled apples1 with a quarter of a pound of butter1 the same of lean ham1 a blade of mace1 four peppercorns1 two bay-leaves1 two sprigs of thyme2 stir them over a moderate fire until the onions become brown and tender1 then add two tablespoonfuls of the best curry powder1 one of vinegar1 two of flour1 a teaspoonful of salt1 one of sugar2 moisten it with a quart of broth or milk1 or even water1 with the addition of a little glaze2 boil till in a pulp1 and adhering rather thickly to the back of the spoon2 pass all through a fine sieve or tammy1 give it another boil for a few minutes1 put it in a basin1 and use when required4 ,any kind of meat1 poultry1 and fish1 or parts of game1 is excellent warmed in this sauce1 and served with well-boiled and dry rice4 ,i have kept this sauce in a cool place in the winter for a month1 boiling it now and then4 ,the quantity of powder may be omitted1 and a spoonful of curry paste used1 or some mangoes4 7,see ,curries47 #aeb4 ,a very good and useful ,white ,sauce 7quite new74--,put a quart of white sauce in a stewpan of a proper size on a fire2 stir continually until reduced to one third2 put two yolks of eggs in a basin1 stir them well up1 add your sauce gradually1 keep stirring1 put back in stewpan1 set it to boil for a few minutes longer1 then add one pint of boiling milk1 which will bring it to its proper thickness2 that is1 when it adheres transparently to the back of a spoon2 pass through a tammy into a basin1 stir now and then till cold2 if not immediately required1 and ,i have any stock left1 ,i use half of it with half of milk4 ,i also try this way1 which is very convenient3 when the yolks are in1 and well boiled1 ,i put it in a large gallipot1 and when cold1 cover with pieces of paper1 and it will keep good in winter for two or three weeks1 and above a week in summer2 and when ,i want to use a little of it1 ,i only take a spoonful or two and warm it on the fire1 and add enough milk or white broth to bring it to a proper thickness1 and use where required4 ,this sauce is very smooth1 and never1 turns greasy2 it lies beautifully on fowl1 or any white made dish2 the addition of a drop of cream gives it a very fine white appearance4 #aec4 ,onion ,pure ,sauce4--,peel and cut six onions in slices2 put in a stewpan1 with a quarter of a pound of butter1 a teaspoonful of salt1 one of sugar1 a half one of pepper2 place on a slow fire to simmer till in a pulp1 stirring them now and then to prevent them getting brown1 then add one tablespoonful of flour1 a pint of milk1 and boil till a proper thickness1 which should be a little thicker than melted butter2 pass through a tammy1 warm again1 and serve with mutton cutlets1 chops1 rabbits1 or fowl2 by not passing it1 it will do for roast mutton and boiled rabbit as onion sauce4 #aed4 ,pure of ,cauliflower ,sauce4--,boil a cauliflower well in three pints of water1 in which you have previously put one ounce of butter1 two tablespoonfuls of salt2 when done1 chop it up1 having prepared and slowly cooked in a stewpan an onion sliced1 a little celery1 half a turnip1 one ounce of ham1 two of butter1 a little bay-leaf1 mace1 add then the cauliflower1 stir round1 add a tablespoonful of flour1 moisten as above for onions1 pass and finish the same way4 #aee4 ,jerusalem ,artichoke ,sauce4--,peel twelve1 and well wash1 boil till tender1 and proceed as above4 #aef4 ,turnip ,sauce ,pure4--,boil six middle-sized ones1 press all the water you can out of them1 and proceed as the above4 #aeg4 ,white ,cucumber ,pure4--,peel two1 or one large one1 cut in slices1 put in the stewpan with the same vegetables1 c41 as for the cauliflower2 when tender1 add a tablespoonful of flour1 three gills of milk or broth1 boil1 and finishing as the cauliflower4 #aeh4 ,sorrel ,sauce1 or ,pure4--,wash well four handfuls of sorrel1 put it nearly dry into a middle-sized stewpan1 with a little butter2 let it melt1 add a tablespoonful of flour1 a teaspoonful of salt1 half one of pepper1 moisten to a thick pure1 with milk1 or broth1 or cream2 pass it through a sieve1 put it back in a stewpan1 warm again1 add two whole eggs1 two ounces of butter1 and stir well1 and serve where directed4 #aei4 ,spinach ,pure 7see ,vegetables1 #b;d ,course74--,endive is often used in ,france1 and called chicore4 ,this pure may be made like the cauliflower1 or only plainly chopped1 put into a pan with two ounces of butter1 a gill of white sauce1 a little grated nutmeg1 and a little salt1 pepper and sugar4 #afj4 ,stewed ,peas and ,sprew ,grass4--,for cutlets1 sweetbreads1 fowls1 or any dishes1 they are applicable 7see ,vegetables1 second course71 also ,french beans1 only using one third of the quantity that you would for a made dish for an entremet4 #afa4 ,scooped ,jerusalem ,artichokes4--,scoop with a round cutter twenty-four pieces of artichoke1 of the size of half an inch in diameter1 wash them1 put them in a small stewpan with half an ounce of butter and a quarter of an ounce of sugar2 put it on a slow fire for a few minutes1 add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce1 six of white broth or milk1 let them simmer till tender1 skim1 mix a yolk of an egg with two tablespoonfuls of milk1 pour in stewpan1 and move it round very quick1 and serve2 it must not be too thick1 and the artichokes must be well done2 they must not be in pure2 they are good with or served under any white meat4 #afb4 ,scooped ,turnips4--,proceed exactly the same1 only serve a little thinner3 they will not do if stringy4 #afc4 ,button ,onions4--,the same1 only make the sauce thinner1 and boil longer1 according to their size4 #afd4 ,young ,carrots4--,scrape and trim to shape twenty small and young carrots1 pass in sugar and butter1 add white or brown sauce1 but keep it thinner1 as it requires a longer time boiling2 when tender1 if for white sauce1 add a tablespoonful of liaison1 stir1 and serve4 #afe4 ,white ,mushroom ,sauce4--,use small white ones2 cut the dark part out and remove the tail1 wash in several waters1 put in a stewpan with a little butter1 salt1 pepper1 juice of lemon1 saut it for a few minutes1 add a gill of white sauce1 four table-spoonfuls of broth1 milk1 or water2 boil and serve under any white meat4 #aff4 ,white ,cucumber ,sauce4--,peel two cucumbers1 divide each lengthways into four1 remove the pips1 and cut into pieces one inch long2 add1 in stewpan one ounce of butter1 a teaspoonful of sugar1 half of salt1 let it stew on the fire for fifteen minutes1 then add a gill of white sauce1 six spoonfuls of milk1 broth1 or water1 simmer gently and skim1 add a tablespoonful of liaison1 and serve where directed1 but observe that all these garnitures ought to be served under the meat and over poultry4 #afg4 ,ragout of ,quenelles4--,make twelve nice small quenelles 7see ,quenelles71 warm half a pint of white sauce1 in which you have put four tablespoonfuls of milk1 and half a teaspoonful of eschalot2 when well done1 pour on the liaison over with the juice of a lemon1 and serve4 ,a few ,english truffles or mushrooms may be added to this sauce4 #afh4 ,matre d',htel ,sauce4--,put eight spoonfuls of white sauce in a stewpan1 with four of white stock or milk2 boil it five minutes1 then stir in two ounces of matre d'htel butter2 stir it quickly over the fire until the butter is melted1 but do not let the sauce boil after the butter is in2 this sauce should only be made at the time of serving4 #afi4 ,green ,peas ,stewed4--,put a pint of young peas1 boiled very green1 into a stewpan1 with three table-spoonfuls of white sauce1 two ounces of butter1 a little sugar and salt1 and two button onions1 with parsley1 tied together2 boil them ten minutes2 add two tablespoonfuls of liaison1 stir it in quickly1 and serve4 #agj4 ,green ,peas1 with ,bacon4--,put a pint of well-boiled peas into a stewpan1 with five spoonfuls of brown sauce1 two of brown gravy1 a teaspoonful of sugar1 two button onions1 and a bunch of parsley2 let it boil about ten minutes2 have ready braised about a quarter of a pound of lean bacon1 cut it in dice about a quarter of an inch square1 add it to the peas1 take out the onions and parsley1 season with an ounce of butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar2 mix well together1 stew twenty minutes1 and serve4 #aga4 ,blanched ,mushrooms4--,get a pottle of fresh mushrooms1 cut off the dirt1 and likewise the heads 7reserving the stalk for chopping71 wash the heads in a basin of clean water1 take them out and drain in a sieve2 put into a stewpan two wine-glasses of cold water1 one ounce of butter1 the juice of half a good lemon1 and a little salt2 turn or peel each head neatly1 and put them into the stewpan immediately1 or they will turn black2 set your stewpan on a brisk fire1 let them boil quickly five minutes1 put them into a basin ready for use2 chop the stalks and peel very fine1 put them into a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of the liquor the mushrooms have been boiled in2 let them simmer three minutes1 put them into a jar1 and use where indicated4 ,observe3 ,turning or peeling mushrooms is an art that practice alone can attain2 if they are very fresh and white1 wash them quickly1 and wipe them on a cloth2 throw them into the liquid above mentioned4 #agb4 ,onions ,stuffed4--,peel twelve large onions1 cut a piece off at the top and bottom to give them a flat appearance1 and which adds a better flavor if left1 blanch them in four quarts of boiling water twenty minutes1 then lay them on a cloth to dry2 take the middle out of each onion1 and fill them with veal forcemeat 7with a little chopped eschalot1 parsley1 and mushroom1 mixed in it71 and put them in a saut-pan well buttered1 cover them with white broth1 let them simmer over a slow fire until covered with a glaze1 and tender2 turn them over and serve where required4 #agc4 ,hot ,tartar ,sauce4--,put two table-spoonfuls of white sauce in a small stewpan1 four of broth or milk1 boil a few minutes1 then add two tablespoonfuls of the tartar sauce 7see ,salads7 in it1 stir it very quick with a wooden spoon1 make it quite hot but not boiling2 put it on a dish1 and serve where described4 #agd4 ,mephistophelian ,sauce4--,do not be afraid of the title1 for it has nothing diabolical about it2 the first time ,i tried it was at ,mr4 ,b4's birthday party2 and some of his friends having over and over again drank his health1 till he had hardly any health left to carry him to the drawing-room1 where the coffee was waiting1 about eleven o'clock1 having asked for some anchovy sandwiches1 but1 from a mistake1 not having any in the house1 ,i composed this ravigotante sauce1 which partly brought them back to their senses4 ,i cut up the remains of the turkey1 rubbed some mustard over it1 sprinkled a little salt and plenty of cayenne1 put it on the gridiron on the fire1 and made the following sauce3 ,i chopped six eschalots1 washed and pressed them in the corner of a clean cloth1 then put them into a stewpan with one and a half wine-glassful of ,chili vinegar1 a chopped clove1 a piece of garlic1 two bay-leaves1 an ounce of glaze1 and boiled all together for ten minutes2 then added four tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce1 a little sugar1 and ten of gravy or brown sauce2 boiled it a few minutes longer1 then added a pat of butter1 stirring it well in1 removed the bay-leaf1 and poured over turkey1 and served4 ,,soups4 ,in ,france1 no dinner is served without soup1 and no good soup is supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu 7see ,no4 #bae71 it being the national dish of the middle and poorer classes of that country2 thinking it might be of service to the working classes1 by showing the benefits to be derived from more frequently partaking of a hot dinner1 as ,i have previously observed1 especially in a cold climate like ours4 ,clear light soups are very delicate1 and in this country more fit for the wealthy2 whilst the more substantial thick soups1 such as mock turtle1 ox-tail1 peas1 c41 are more in vogue1 consequent to being better adapted to the million2 therefore1 after giving a few series of clear soups1 ,i shall proceed to give a greater variety of the thicker sorts1 being careful that every receipt shall be so plain as to give a correct idea of its cost4 #age4 ,stock for all kinds of ,soup4--,procure a knuckle of veal about six pounds in weight1 which cut into pieces about the size of an egg1 as also half a pound of lean ham or bacon2 then rub a quarter of a pound of butter upon the bottom of the stewpan 7capable of holding about two gallons71 into which put the meat and bacon1 with half a pint of water1 two ounces of salt1 three middle-sized onions1 with two cloves in each1 one turnip1 a carrot1 half a leek1 and half a head of celery2 put the cover upon the stewpan1 which place over a sharp fire1 occasionally stirring round its contents with a wooden spoon1 until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white thickish glaze1 which will lightly adhere to the spoon2 fill up the stewpan with cold water1 and when upon the point of boiling1 draw it to the corner of the fire1 where it must gently simmer for three hours1 carefully skimming off every particle of grease and scum2 pass your stock through a fine hair sieve1 and it is ready for use when required4 ,the above will make a delicious broth for all kinds of clear soups1 and of course for thick soups or pures2 by boiling it rather faster about five minutes before passing1 you will be better enabled to take off every particle of grease from the surface4 ,in making a stock of beef proceed as above1 but allow double the time to simmer2 mutton or lamb1 if any trimmings1 might also be used2 if beef1 use seven pounds2 if mutton1 eight2 or lamb1 seven1 of course bones and all included2 with care1 this broth would be quite clear4 ,to give a little color1 as required for all clear soups1 use a little brown gravy or browning1 but never attempt to brown it by letting it color at the bottom of the stewpan1 for in that case you would destroy the greater part of the osmazome4 #agf4 ,another way1 more economical4--,instead of cutting up the knuckle of veal so small1 cut it in four or five pieces only1 and leave the bacon in one piece2 then1 when the broth is passed1 take out the veal1 which is very excellent served with a little of the broth for gravy1 and the bacon with a few greens upon another dish4 ,this is as ,i always eat it myself2 but some persons would probably prefer a little parsley-and-butter sauce or sharp sauce1 served with it4 ,should any of the veal be left until cold1 it might be cut into thin slices1 and gradually warmed in either of the before-mentioned sauces4 ,should you make your stock from the leg or shin of beef1 stew it double the time1 preserve the vegetables boiled in the stock1 and serve with beef1 or serve the beef with some nice sharp sauce over2 the remainder1 if cold1 may also be hashed in the ordinary way4 ,if of mutton1 and you have used the scrags of the neck1 the breast1 head1 or the chump of the loin1 keep them in as large pieces as possible2 and1 when done1 serve with a few mashed turnips1 and caper sauce1 separately2 if any remaining until cold1 mince it4 ,lamb would be seldom used for stock1 being much too expensive2 but in case of an abundance1 which there sometimes is in the country1 proceed the same as for mutton4 #agg4 ,brown ,gravies4--,rub an ounce of butter over the bottom of a stewpan which would hold about three quarts2 have ready peeled four onions1 cut them into thick slices1 with which cover the bottom of the stewpan2 over these lay about two pounds of beef from the leg or shin1 cut into thin slices1 with the bone chopped very small1 add a small carrot1 a turnip cut in slices1 and a couple of cloves2 set the stewpan upon a gentle fire for ten minutes1 shaking it round occasionally to prevent burning2 after which1 let it go upon a slow fire for upwards of an hour1 until the bottom is covered with a blackish glaze1 but not burnt2 when properly done1 and ready for filling up1 you will perceive the fat that runs from the meat quite clear1 fill up the stewpan with cold water1 add a teaspoonful of salt2 and when upon the point of boiling1 set it on a corner of the fire1 where let it simmer gently about an hour1 skimming off all the fat and scum which may rise to the surface2 when done1 pass it through a fine sieve into a basin1 and put by to use for the following purposes3--,for every kind of roast meat1 poultry1 or game especially2 also to give a good color to soups and sauces4 ,this gravy will keep several days1 by boiling it every other day4 ,although beef is the most proper meat for the above purpose1 it may be made of veal1 mutton1 lamb1 or even with fresh pork1 rabbits1 or poultry4 #agh4 ,browning4--,when in business1 and not so much time to devote to the kitchen1 ,i used to make shift with a browning from the following receipt1 using1 however1 but a very few drops3 put two ounces of powdered sugar into a middling-sized stewpan1 which place over a slow fire2 when beginning to melt1 stir it round with a wooden spoon until getting quite black1 then pour over half a pint of cold water3 leave it to dissolve1 and take a little for use when required4 #agi4 ,glaze is an almost indispensable article in a cuisine bourgeoise1 and should be kept by all persons in the middle classes of life1 the advantage being that it will keep for months together1 is very simple to make1 and is always useful in cookery1 however humble2 in fact1 with it you can dress a very good dinner with very little trouble4 ,make a stock as directed in ,no4 #age1 but omitting the salt1 which1 when done1 pass through a cloth into a basin2 then fill the stewpan up a second time with hot water1 and let boil four hours longer to obtain all the succulence from the meat1 then pass it through a cloth the same as the first2 then pour both stocks in a large stewpan together1 set it over the fire1 and let it boil as fast as possible1 leaving a large spoon in1 to stir occasionally and prevent its boiling over2 when reduced to about three pints1 pour it into a smaller stewpan1 set again to boil at the corner1 skimming well if required2 when reduced to a quart1 place it quite over the fire1 well stirring with a wooden spoon until forming a thickish glaze 7which will adhere to the spoon7 of a fine yellowish-brown color2 pour it into a basin1 or1 if for keeping any time1 into a long bladder1 from which cut a slice and use where directed4 ,where1 however1 only a small quantity is required1 reduce only the second stock1 using the first for either soup or sauce2 but in that case the salt must not be omitted from the first stock1 but from the second only4 ,veal at all times makes the best glaze1 but any kinds of meat1 game1 or poultry will produce more or less4 #ahj4 ,to clarify ,stock1 if required4--,in case1 by some accident1 your stock should not be clear1 put it 7say three quarts7 into a stewpan1 and place it over a good fire1 skim well1 and1 when boiling1 have ready the whites of three eggs 7carefully separated from their yolks71 to which add half a pint of water2 whisk well together2 then add half a pint of the boiling stock gradually1 still whisking the eggs2 then whisk the boiling stock1 pouring the whites of eggs1 c41 in whilst so doing1 which continue until nearly boiling again1 then take it from the fire1 let it remain until the whites of eggs separate themselves1 pass it through a clean fine cloth into a basin2 this must be taken as a rule for every kind of clear soup1 which must be strictly followed by every person wishing to profit by this little work4 ,these principles1 once learned1 would be useful at all times1 and save a great deal of useless reference in the perusal of these receipts2 and no persons can make themselves answerable for the success of any individual in making soups if the instructions recommended be not strictly followed4 ,the following rule should be therefore punctually attended to4 ,all clear soups ought not to be too strong of meat1 and must be of a light brown sherry or straw color4 ,all white or brown thick soups should be rather thin1 with just sufficient consistency to adhere lightly to a spoon when hot1 soups of fish1 poultry1 or game especially4 ,all pures1 no matter whether of meat or vegetables1 require to be somewhat thicker1 which may be ascertained by its adhering more thickly to the spoon4 ,every ,italian soup must be very clear1 rather stronger of meat1 and the color of pale sherry4 ,by following the few foregoing observations1 experience will teach you volumes2 for as there is a great difference in the quality of different materials 7flour1 for instance1 which1 if strong1 would tend to thicken1 but1 if weak1 actually almost turns to water by boiling71 therefore your judgment1 with the above few important remarks1 will make you more perfect than the most precise quantities of weights and measurements1 upon that important point4 #aha4 ,clear ,vegetable ,soup4--,peel a middling-sized carrot and turnip1 which cut first into slices1 then into small square pieces about the size of dice2 peel also eighteen button onions2 wash the whole in cold water1 and drain them upon a sieve2 when dry1 put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar2 set them upon a very sharp fire for ten minutes1 tossing them over every now and then until the vegetables become covered with a thin shiny glaze1 which may take rather more than the before-mentioned time2 care1 however1 must be taken1 for should you let them get brown1 the flavor of the soup would be spoiled2 whilst1 upon the other hand1 if put in whilst surrounded with a whitish liquid1 your soup would look white and unsightly2 with a little attention1 however1 success is certain2 and1 once accomplished1 there would be no difficulty in making any vegetable soups or sauce1 therefore it is very desirable to know how to do it properly4 ,when done1 pour two quarts of clear broth over them1 set it upon the fire1 and when upon the point of boiling1 place it at the corner to simmer1 until the vegetables are quite tender 7the onions especially71 carefully skimming off all the butter as it rises to the surface2 it will require about half an hour's simmering1 and there should be half a pound of vegetables to two quarts of stock2 taste if properly seasoned1 which it ought to be with the above proportions1 but use your own judgment accordingly4 ,by following the last process correctly1 the only difference to be made in those descriptions of soup is in the shape the vegetables are cut4 #ahb4 ,printanire ,soup4--,cut a small quantity of vegetables as in the last1 but rather less carrot and turnip1 introducing a little celery1 leek1 and young spring onions1 instead of the button onions2 proceed exactly as before1 but ten minutes before taking it from the fire1 wash a few leaves of sorrel1 which cut small and put into the soup1 with six sprigs of chervil2 in summer1 a few fresh-boiled peas or ,french beans served in it is an improvement4 ,in whatever shape you may cut the vegetables for soup1 always be cautious not to cut some pieces larger than others1 and the whole of them rather small than large2 for if some pieces should be small and others large1 the smaller pieces would be quite in pure1 whilst the larger ones would still be quite hard1 which would cause your soup not only to eat badly1 but give it an unsightly appearance1 for the vegetable boiled to a pure would make the soup thick4 ,the above remark1 although simple1 is still very important4 #ahc4 ,julienne ,soup4--,this soup is entirely the hereditary property of ,france1 and is supposed to be so called from the months of ,june and ,july1 when all vegetables are in full season2 and to make it in reality as originally made1 a small quantity of every description of vegetables should be used1 including lettuce1 sorrel1 and tarragon2 however1 some few sorts of vegetables mixed together make a most estimable soup4 ,weigh half a pound of the vegetables in fair proportions to each other2 that is1 carrots1 turnips1 onions1 celery1 and leeks1 which cut into small fillets an inch in length1 and of the thickness of a trussing-needle2 when done1 wash dry1 and pass them in butter and sugar as before1 proceeding the same with the soup1 adding just before it is done a little sorrel1 cabbage-lettuce1 and chervil or peas1 if handy1 but it would be excellent without either4 #ahd4 ,clear ,turnip ,soup4--,cut1 with a round vegetable scoop1 about forty pieces of turnip1 of the shape and size of small marbles1 which put into a stewpan1 with sugar and butter as before1 but fry them of a light brownish color1 and finish the soup1 as in the previous receipts4 ,a tablespoonful of ,italian paste1 previously half boiled in water1 then drained and finished in the soup1 is also an improvement4 #ahe4 ,clear ,artichoke ,soup4--,peel twelve ,jerusalem artichokes1 which well wash1 then cut as many round scoops as possible1 the same as in the last1 proceeding exactly the same4 ,the remainder of either turnips1 artichokes1 or carrots may be boiled1 and mashed with a little butter1 pepper1 and salt1 and served as a vegetable1 or reserved to make a soup pure2 the remains of other vegetables from the previous soups should also be reserved for flavoring of stock1 instead of using the fresh vegetables4 #ahf4 ,vermicelli4--,put a quart of clear stock into a stewpan upon the fire1 and when boiling add two ounces of vermicelli2 boil gently ten minutes1 and it is ready to serve4 #ahg4 ,italian ,paste4--,procure some small ,italian paste1 in stars1 rings1 or any other shape1 but small2 put on a quart of stock1 and when boiling1 add two ounces of the paste2 boil twenty minutes1 or rather more1 when it is ready to serve4 #ahh4 ,semoulina4--,when the stock is boiling1 add two tablespoonfuls of semoulina2 boil twenty minutes1 and it is then done4 ,proceed the same also with tapioca and sago4 #ahi4 ,macaroni4--,boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni1 in a quart of water1 for ten minutes1 then strain it off1 and throw it into two quarts of boiling stock2 let simmer gently for half an hour1 when serve1 with grated cheese1 upon a plate separately4 #aij4 ,rice4--,well wash two ounces of the best rice1 strain off the water1 put the rice into a stewpan1 with a quart of cold stock1 place it upon the fire1 and let simmer about half an hour1 until the rice is very tender1 but not in pulp4 #aia4 ,mutton ,broth4--,any description of trimmings of mutton may be used for broth1 but the scrag ends of the neck are usually chosen2 put two scrags into a stewpan 7having previously jointed the bones71 with three onions1 three turnips1 and one carrot1 fill up the stewpan with a gallon of water1 and place it upon the fire2 when boiling set it at the corner1 where let it simmer for three hours1 keeping it well skimmed2 then cut a small carrot1 two turnips1 an onion1 with a little leek and celery1 into small square pieces1 which put into another stewpan1 with a wineglassful of pearl-barley2 skim every particle of fat from the broth1 which pour through a hair sieve over them2 let the whole boil gently at the corner of the fire until the barley is tender1 when it is ready to serve2 the meat may be trimmed into neat pieces and served with the broth1 or separately with melted butter and parsley1 or onion sauce4 ,half or even a quarter of the above quantity can be made by reducing the ingredients in proportion4 #aib4 ,irish ,soup made of ,mutton ,broth4--,this soup is made similar to the last1 adding ten or twelve mealy potatoes1 cut into large dice1 omitting the other vegetables1 which1 being boiled to a pure1 thickens the broth2 just before serving1 throw in twenty heads of parsley1 and at the same time add a few flowers of marigold1 which will really give it a very pleasing flavor4 #aic4 ,scotch ,cock-a-leekie4--,trim two or three bunches of fine winter leeks1 cutting off the roots and part of the heads1 then split each in halves lengthwise1 and each half into three1 which wash well in two or three waters1 then put them into a stewpan1 with a stock previously made as directed 7,no4 #age71 and a fowl trussed as for boiling2 let the whole simmer very gently at the corner of the fire for three hours1 keeping it well skimmed1 seasoning a little if required2 half an hour before serving add two dozen ,french plums1 without breaking them2 when ready to serve1 take out the fowl1 which cut into neat pieces1 place them in a tureen1 and pour the leeks and broth over1 the leeks being then partly in pure2 if too thick1 however1 add a drop more broth or water4 ,should the leeks happen to be old and strong1 it would be better to blanch them five minutes in a gallon of boiling water previous to putting them in the stock4 ,i prefer a young fowl2 but1 should an old one be most handy1 stew it a short time in the stock before passing it4 ,this soup will keep good several days1 and would improve by warming a second time4 #aid4 ,ox-tail ,soup4--,cut up two ox-tails1 separating them at the joints1 put a small piece of butter at the bottom of a stewpan1 then put in the ox-tails1 with a carrot1 a turnip1 three onions1 a head of celery1 a leek1 and a bunch of parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaf2 and half a pint of water1 and twelve grains of whole pepper1 set over a sharp fire1 stirring occasionally1 until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a thickish brown glaze1 then add a quarter of a pound of flour1 stir it well in1 and fill up the stewpan with three quarts of water1 add a tablespoonful of salt1 and stir occasionally until boiling1 when set it upon the corner of the stove1 skim well1 add a gill of good brown gravy1 or a few drops of browning1 and let simmer until the tails are stewed very tender1 the flesh coming easily from the bones1 then take them out immediately1 and put them into your tureen2 pass the soup through a hair sieve over them1 add a head of celery1 previously cut small1 and boiled in a little stock1 and serve4 ,ox-tail soup may also be made clear by omitting the flour1 and serving with vegetables1 as directed for the clear vegetable soup 7,no4 #aha74 #aie4 ,ox-cheek ,soup4--,blanch in boiling water two ox-cheeks1 cut off the beard1 take away all the bone1 which chop up1 and cut the flesh into middling-sized pieces1 leaving the cheek-part whole2 put all together into a stewpan1 with four quarts of water1 a little salt1 ten peppercorns1 two carrots1 two turnips1 one leek1 one head of celery1 and a bunch of parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaf2 let it stew at the corner of the fire six hours1 keeping it well skimmed1 then take out the fleshy part of the cheeks1 and pass the broth through a hair-sieve into another stewpan2 mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a pint of cold broth1 which pour into it1 and stir over the fire until boiling1 when place it at the corner 7adding two heads of celery1 cut very fine1 and a glass of sherry72 when the celery is tender1 cut the meat into small square pieces1 keep them warm in the tureen1 and when the soup is ready1 pour over1 and serve2 give it a nice color with browning4 ,sheeps' or lambs' heads also make very good soup by following the above receipt1 and adding two pounds of veal1 mutton1 or beef to the stock3 two heads would be sufficient1 and they would not require so long to stew4 #aif4 ,white ,mock-turtle ,soup4--,procure half a calf's head 7scalded1 not skinned71 bone it1 then cut up a knuckle of veal1 which put into a stewpan1 well buttered at the bottom1 with half a pound of lean ham1 an ounce of salt1 a carrot1 a turnip1 three onions1 a head of celery1 a leek1 a bunch of parsley1 and a bay-leaf1 add half a pint of water2 set it upon the fire1 moving it round occasionally1 until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze2 then add six quarts of water1 and put in the half head1 let simmer upon the corner of the fire for two hours and a half1 or until the head is tender1 then take it out1 and press it between two dishes1 and pass the stock through a hair sieve into a basin2 then in another stewpan have a quarter of a pound of butter1 with a sprig of thyme1 basil1 marjoram1 and bay-leaf1 let the butter get quite hot1 then add six ounces of flour to form a roux1 stir over a sharp fire a few minutes1 keeping it quite white2 stand it off the fire to cool1 then add the stock1 stir over the fire until boiling1 then stand it at the corner1 skim off all the fat1 and pass it through a hair sieve into another stewpan2 cut the head into pieces an inch square1 but not too thick1 and put them into the soup1 which season with a little cayenne pepper2 when the pieces are hot1 add a gill of cream1 and pour it into your tureen4 ,the above quantity would make two tureens of soup1 and will keep good several days1 but of course half the quantity could be made4 #aig4 ,brown ,mock-turtle4--,proceed the same as in the last article1 only coloring the stock by drawing it down to a brown glaze1 likewise adding half a pint of brown gravy 7,no4 #agg71 omitting the cream1 and adding two glasses of sherry4 #aih4 ,mulligatawny ,soup4--,cut up a knuckle of veal1 which put into a stewpan1 with a piece of butter1 half a pound of lean ham1 a carrot1 a turnip1 three onions1 and six apples1 add half a pint of water2 set the stewpan over a sharp fire1 moving the meat round occasionally1 let remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brownish glaze1 then add three tablespoonfuls of curry powder1 one of curry paste1 and half a pound of flour1 stir well in1 and fill the stewpan with a gallon of water2 add a spoonful of salt1 the half of one of sugar1 when boiling1 place it at the corner of the fire1 and let it simmer two hours and a half1 skimming off all the fat as it rises1 then pass it through a tammy into a tureen2 trim some of the pieces of veal1 and put it back in the stewpan to boil1 and serve with plain boiled rice separate4 ,ox-tails or pieces of rabbits1 chickens1 c41 left from a previous dinner may be served in it instead of the veal4 ,the veal is exceedingly good to eat4 #aii4 ,giblet ,soup4--,clean two sets of giblets1 which soak for two hours1 cut them into equal sizes1 and put them into a stewpan1 with a quarter of a pound of butter1 four pounds of veal or beef1 half a pound of ham1 a carrot1 a turnip1 three onions1 two ounces of salt1 and a bunch of parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaves2 place the stewpan over a sharp fire1 stirring the meat round occasionally2 when the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a light glaze1 add a quarter of a pound of flour1 stir well in1 and fill up with a gallon of water1 add about a pint of brown gravy 7,no4 #agg71 stir occasionally until boiling1 then set it at the corner of the stove to simmer1 keeping it well skimmed2 when the giblets are tender1 take them out1 put them into your tureen1 pass the soup through a hair sieve over1 and serve2 twenty cooked button onions1 or any small-shaped vegetables served in it1 is very good1 as is also a glass of port wine4 #bjj4 ,oyster ,soup4--,put four dozen of oysters into a stewpan with their liquor1 place them upon the fire1 when upon the point of boiling1 drain them upon a sieve1 catching the liquor in a basin2 take off the beards1 which put into the liquor1 putting the oysters into a soup tureen2 then put a quarter of a pound of butter into another stewpan over the fire1 and when melted add six ounces of flour1 stir over a slow fire for a short time1 but keeping it quite white2 let it cool1 then add the liquor and beards of the oysters1 a quart of milk1 and two quarts of stock 7,no4 #age71 stir over the fire until boiling1 then season with a teaspoonful of salt1 half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper1 five peppercorns1 half a blade of mace1 a tablespoonful of ,harvey sauce1 half ditto of essence of anchovies2 let boil quickly at the corner for ten minutes1 skim it well1 add a gill of cream1 if handy1 strain through a hair sieve over the oysters1 and serve4 #bja4 ,the ,fisherman's ,soup4--,put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan1 and when melted add six ounces of flour1 stir well together over a slow fire a few minutes1 when cool1 add one quart of milk1 and two quarts of stock 7,no4 #age71 stir over a fire until boiling2 having previously filleted two soles1 add the bones and trimmings to the soup1 with four cloves1 one blade of mace1 two bay-leaves1 one spoonful of essence of anchovies1 one ditto of ,harvey sauce1 half a saltspoonful of cayenne1 a little sugar and salt if required2 let the whole boil quickly at the corner for ten minutes1 keeping it well skimmed2 cut each fillet of sole into six pieces1 put them into another stewpan1 with half a handful of picked parsley1 pass the soup through a hair sieve over1 boil again ten minutes1 add a gill of cream1 if handy1 and it is ready to serve4 #bjb4 ,autumn ,soup4--,cut up four cabbage-lettuces1 one cos ditto1 a handful of sorrel1 and a little tarragon and chervil1 when well washed and drained1 put them into a stewpan1 with two cucumbers finely sliced1 and two ounces of butter1 place them over a brisk fire1 stirring occasionally1 until very little liquid remains1 then add two tablespoonfuls of flour1 stirring it well in1 then pour over three quarts of stock1 made as directed 7,no4 #age71 adding a quart of young and fresh green peas2 half an hour's boiling will suffice for this delicious soup1 and the flavor of the vegetables will be fully preserved2 season with a teaspoonful of salt1 and two of sugar4 #bjc4 ,hodge ,podge4--,cut two pounds of fresh scrag of mutton into small pieces1 which put into a stewpan1 with three quarts of cold water and a tablespoonful of salt1 set it upon the fire1 and when boiling place it at the corner to simmer1 keeping it well skimmed2 let it simmer an hour1 then add a good-sized carrot1 two turnips1 two large onions cut into small dice1 and six cabbage-lettuces1 if in season 7the whole well washed71 and let simmer until quite tender2 skim off all the fat1 and serve either with the meat in the soup or separately4 ,if in season1 a pint of green peas boiled in the soup is a great improvement4 #bjd4 ,french ,cabbage ,soup4--,this is a soup very much in vogue amongst the middle classes of the ,french people2 it is very economical1 and may satisfy a numerous family at a trifling expense4 ,put a gallon of water into a saucepan1 with two pounds of streaky pickled pork or bacon1 whichever most convenient1 to which add a couple of pounds of white cabbage1 cut in strips 7using every part but the stalk1 and previously well washed71 two large onions1 a carrot1 a turnip1 and a head of celery2 let the whole boil three or four hours1 until the pork is tender1 skimming off all the fat1 season with a little black pepper1 brown sugar1 and salt1 if required 7which is not very frequently the case1 the pork or bacon generally being sufficiently so71 lay slices of bread in your tureen 7about one pound71 pour the soup over2 keep the tureen covered ten minutes1 until the bread is soaked1 and it is ready to serve4 ,the pork or bacon may be either served separate or cut into small square pieces1 and served in the soup4 ,a few mealy potatoes are sometimes introduced1 or a quart of large green peas1 or a pint of dry split peas4 ,you must observe that vegetables in ,france are much more used than in this country1 as there are but few poor people there who do not possess a little garden1 in which they grow their own4 ,it is also frequently made maigre by omitting the pork or bacon1 adding more vegetables of all kinds1 and a quarter of a pound of butter1 and frequently where they have nothing else but cabbage1 they make it only of that2 now setting all national feeling aside respecting the poverty of their meals1 ,i have known strong healthy men make a hearty meal of it1 preferring it to meat1 of which they scarcely ever partake4 #bje4 ,pure of ,vegetable ,soup4--,peel and cut up very finely three onions1 three turnips1 one carrot1 and four potatoes1 which put into a stewpan1 with a quarter of a pound of butter1 the same of lean ham1 and a bunch of parsley2 pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire1 when add a good spoonful of flour1 which mix well in1 add two quarts of stock1 and a pint of boiling milk1 stir it until boiling2 season with a little salt and sugar1 rub it through a tammy1 put it into another stewpan1 boil again1 skim and serve with croutons of fried bread as for ,palestine ,soup4 ,it ought to be thickish4 #bjf4 ,palestine ,soup1 or ,pure of ,artichokes4--,have a quarter of a pound of lean bacon or ham1 as also an onion1 a turnip1 and a little celery1 cut the whole into small thin slices1 and put them into a stewpan1 with two ounces of butter2 place them over a sharp fire1 keeping them stirred1 about twenty minutes1 or until forming a whitish glaze at the bottom1 then have ready washed1 peeled1 and cut into thin slices1 the artichokes1 which put into the stewpan with a pint of broth or water1 and stew until quite tender1 then mix in two tablespoonfuls of flour quite smoothly1 add two quarts of stock made as directed 7,no4 #age71 and half a pint of milk2 keep it constantly stirred until boiling2 season with a teaspoonful of salt1 and two of sugar1 then rub it through a tammy1 place it again in a stewpan2 let it boil five minutes1 keeping it well skimmed1 and serve with very small croutons of bread 7fried in butter1 and dried upon a cloth7 in the tureen2 a gill of cream1 stirred in at the moment of serving1 is a great improvement1 although it may be omitted4 #bjg4 ,pure of ,cauliflower ,soup4--,proceed as described for the pure of artichokes1 but omitting the artichokes1 and substituting four middling-sized cauliflowers1 previously boiled and chopped fine4 ,a pure of turnips is likewise made in the same manner as a pure of artichokes1 substituting turnips for artichokes1 and adding half a tablespoonful more of flour4 ,a pure of white ,belgian carrot1 called ,crcy la ,reine1 is made in the same way1 and is uncommon and delicate4 #bjh4 ,crcy ,soup1 or ,pure of ,carrots4--,procure five or six large carrots1 as red as possible1 which well scrape1 then shave them into very thin slices1 taking off all the exterior red1 but not using the centre1 then peel and slice a large onion1 a turnip1 a quarter of a pound of lean ham1 a few sprigs of parsley1 and two bay-leaves2 put them into a stewpan1 with four ounces of butter1 fry the whole of a light yellowish color1 then add the carrot1 with a pint of water1 and let them stew until perfectly tender1 mix in two ounces of flour quite smoothly1 and add five pints of stock 7,no4 #age72 season with a little salt and sugar1 and stir upon the fire until boiling1 a quarter of an hour1 when pass it through a tammy1 and finish and serve as in the preceding2 no cream1 however1 must be added4 ,this soup ought to be of a red color4 #bji4 ,green ,pea ,soup4--,put two quarts of green peas into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter1 a quarter of a pound of lean ham1 cut into small dice1 two onions in slices1 and a few sprigs of parsley2 add a quart of cold water1 and with the hands rub all well together2 then pour off the water1 cover the stewpan close1 and stand it over a sharp fire1 stirring the contents round occasionally2 when very tender1 add two tablespoonfuls of flour1 which mix well in mashing the peas with your spoon against the sides of the stewpan1 add two quarts of stock1 or broth from the ,pot-au-feu1 a tablespoonful of sugar1 and a little pepper and salt1 if required2 boil all well together five minutes1 when rub it through a tammy or hair sieve2 then put it into another stewpan1 with a pint of boiling milk2 boil five minutes1 skim well1 and pour it into your tureen4 ,it must not be too thick1 serve with croutons of bread as for ,palestine4 #baj4 ,winter ,pea ,soup4--,wash a quart of split peas1 which put into a stewpan1 with half a pound of streaky bacon1 two onions in slices1 two pounds of veal or beef1 cut into small pieces1 and a little parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaf1 add a gallon of water1 with a little salt and sugar1 place it upon the fire1 and when boiling1 stand it at the side until the peas are boiled to a pure1 and the water has reduced to half1 then take out the meat1 which put upon a dish1 to be eaten with the bacon1 keeping it hot1 rub the soup through a hair sieve or tammy1 put it into another stewpan1 and when boiling1 serve4 ,the meat may also be served in the tureen if approved of4 ,maigre pea soup may also be made by omitting the meat1 adding half a pound of butter1 one quart of milk1 and omitting a quart of water4 #baa4 ,lentil ,soup4--,cut three onions1 a turnip1 and the half of a carrot into very thin slices1 which put into a stewpan1 with a quarter of a pound of butter1 a few sprigs of parsley1 a sprig of thyme1 and two bay-leaves1 add also two pounds of leg of beef1 cut into small dice2 set the stewpan upon the fire1 stirring with a wooden spoon1 until its contents are fried rather brownish1 when add one quart of lentils1 and three of water1 let the whole simmer until the lentils are very tender1 when season with nearly an ounce of salt1 and half that quantity of sugar2 it is then ready to serve4 ,to make a pure of lentils3--when the soup is made1 strain off the broth1 add a good spoonful of flour to the lentils1 which mash with a wooden spoon against the side of the stewpan2 then again put in the broth1 boil all up together1 keeping it stirred with a spoon2 rub it through a tammy or hair sieve1 again boil and skim1 and it is ready2 serve with a few croutons of bread1 as directed for ,palestine soup4 #bab4 ,maigre ,soup4--,cut two onions into very small dice1 and put them into a stewpan1 with two ounces of butter2 fry them a short time1 but not to discolor them2 have ready three or four handfuls of well-washed sorrel1 which cut into ribands and put into the stewpan with the onions1 add one tablespoonful of flour1 then mix well a pint of milk and a quart of water2 boil altogether twenty minutes1 keeping it stirred2 season with a teaspoonful of sugar and salt1 take it from the fire1 and stir in quickly a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream or milk 7it must not boil afterwards71 put the crust of a ,french roll1 cut into strips1 in the tureen1 pour the soup over1 and serve very hot4 #bac4 ,onion ,soup ,maigre4--,peel and cut six large onions into small dice1 put them into a stewpan1 with a quarter of a pound of butter1 place them over the fire until well fried1 when well mix in a tablespoonful of flour1 and rather better than a quart of water2 boil until the onions are quite tender1 season with a spoonful of salt and a little sugar2 finish with a liaison1 and serve as in the last4 #bad4 ,hare ,soup4--,put half a pound of butter into a stewpan1 and1 when melted1 add three quarters of a pound of flour1 and half a pound of streaky bacon1 cut into very small pieces2 keep stirring over the fire until becoming lightly browned4 ,you have previously cut up a hare into neat smallish pieces2 put them into the stewpan1 and keep stirring round over the fire1 until they are set2 then fill it up with five quarts of water1 add two onions1 a head of celery1 a bunch of parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaves1 a blade of mace1 and four cloves2 when boiling1 season with one ounce of salt and a little pepper1 and let it simmer at the corner until the pieces of hare are done1 which would be in about an hour if a young hare1 but double that time if a very old one2 the better plan is to try a piece occasionally4 ,when done1 take out the best pieces1 and the inferior ones pound in a mortar1 removing the bones1 put it back in the soup1 and pass all through a tammy1 boil for ten minutes1 and put it again into a stewpan1 and serve4 ,the above quantity would be sufficient for two tureens4 ,a glass of wine may be added4 ,rabbit1 pheasant1 grouse1 partridge1 and other game soups1 may be made in the same way4 #bae4 ,french ,pot-au-feu4--,out of this earthen pot comes the favorite soup and bouilli1 which has been everlastingly famed as having been the support of many generations of all classes of society in ,france2 from the opulent to the poorest individuals1 all pay tribute to its excellence and worth4 ,in fact this soup and bouilli is to the ,french what the roast beef and plum-pudding is on a ,sunday to the ,english4 ,no dinner in ,france is served without soup1 and no good soup is supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu4 ,the following is the receipt3--,put in the pot-au-feu six pounds of beef1 four quarts of water1 set near the fire1 skim2 when nearly boiling add a spoonful and a half of salt1 half a pound of liver1 two carrots1 four turnips1 eight young or two old leeks1 one head of celery1 two onions and one burnt1 with a clove in each1 and a piece of parsnip1 skim again1 and let simmer four or five hours1 adding a little cold water now and then2 take off part of the fat1 put slices of bread into the tureen1 lay half the vegetables over1 and half the broth1 and serve the meat separate with the vegetables around4 ,,crab ,,soup4--,we add to the list of ,m4 ,soyer's soups1 a receipt for a purely ,american soup1 a great favorite at the ,south1 and esteemed a great luxury by those who have eaten of it--,,ed4 ,open and cleanse twelve young fat crabs 7raw71 and cut them into two parts2 parboil and extract the meat from the claws1 and the fat from the top shell4 ,scald eighteen ripe tomatos2 skin them and squeeze the pulp from the seed1 and chop it fine2 pour boiling water over the seed and juice1 and having strained it from the seed1 use it to make the soup4 ,stew a short time in the soup-pot three large onions1 one clove of garlic1 in one spoonful of butter1 two spoonfuls of lard1 and then put in the tomatos1 and after stewing a few minutes1 add the meat from the crab claws1 then the crabs1 and last the fat from the back shell of the crab2 sift over it grated bread-crumbs or crackers4 ,season with salt1 ,cayenne and black pepper1 parsley1 sweet marjoram1 thyme1 half teaspoonful lemon juice1 and the peel of a lemon2 pour in the water with which the seed were scalded1 and boil it moderately one hour4 ,any firm fish may be substituted for the crab4 ,,fish4 ,of all aliments that have been given to the human race for nourishment1 none are more abundant or more easy of procuring than this antediluvian species1 and yet of how few do we make use1 and how slight is our knowledge of their habits1 for it is only within the last few years that the idea was exploded that the herrings made an annual migration from the ,arctic seas to deposit their spawn on the shores of the ,british islands4 ,it possesses1 according to its kind1 a greater or less degree of nourishment1 depending1 like the animal1 in a great measure on those beautiful meadows at the bottom of the ocean1 where it feeds2 for even those which live upon some of a smaller kind1 as the cod on the haddock1 that on the whiting1 and that again on the mussel1 or other crustaceous fish1 which move but little from the place where they were originally spawned1 derive their nourishment from the herbs and the animalcul which those herbs produce that lay around them2 the cod on the southeast of the ,bank of ,newfoundland is as fine again in flavor as that on the north-west side4 ,fish1 of course1 do not afford the same amount of nourishment as meat1 as they contain but a slight quantity of osmazome2 but its flesh is refreshing1 and often exciting4 ,a curious circumstance has been observed in respect to the animate parts of the creation which draw their nourishment from fish1 as in birds and the human race1 that they produce more females when doing so than males4 ,it ought to be made an article of diet more often than it is1 as the particles it contains tend to purify the blood from the grossness it receives in partaking of animal food2 and when taken at the commencement of dinner1 tends to assist the digestion of those substances which form the more substantial part of the meal4 ,in the receipts will be found those which ,i consider fit for the table2 but1 as a general rule to be observed1 as in the feathered tribe1 all those of beautiful variegated colors are more unfit to eat than any other2 as if the great ,creator of all1 in order to please man1 had destined some for his nourishment1 and others to gratify his senses by their melodious notes and beautiful plumage4 ,nothing indicates its freshness so well as fish2 the merest novice ought to know it2 their gills should be difficult to open1 be red1 and swell well2 fins tight and close2 eyes bright1 and not sunk3 the contrary to this denotes their being stale4 ,of the round fish1 the ,,salmon is considered the best and most delicate in flavor1 but varies considerably1 according to the river in which it is caught2 for there is no doubt but that it returns to the river where it was originally spawned1 and its time of spawning varies in different rivers4 ,the male is the finest flavored fish1 and has more curd than the female4 ,of late years it has been considered that this fish should be eaten as fresh as possible1 for which purpose it is crimped when alive1 that it may be flaky1 and the curd in it4 ,in former times1 it was considered best to keep it two or three days2 it is certain that1 in keeping it1 the curd undergoes a change1 which produces a volatile salt1 oily and balsamic particles1 render it nutritive and invigorating2 it is diuretic1 pectoral1 and restorative1 and if eaten too profusely produces vomiting2 but when the curd is in it1 the flesh is hard and dry1 lies heavy on the stomach1 and produces indigestion4 ,this fish1 when out of season1 may be distinguished by having large scarlet1 purple1 and blue spots on its sides1 the male snout long1 the female snout hooked4 ,when in season1 the color ought to be a silvery pink gray2 when cooked1 the flesh should be of a dark rose color2 when out of season it is pale2 small-headed fish are the best4 ,this fish was known to the ,romans1 who received it from ,aquitaine and the ,moselle4 #baf4 ,salmon1 plain boiled4--,i prefer always dressing this fish in slices from an inch to two inches in thickness1 boiling it in plenty of salt water about twenty minutes2 the whole fish may be boiled1 or the head and shoulders of a large fish1 but they require longer boiling4 ,salmon eats firmer by not being put into the water until boiling4 ,dress the fish upon a napkin1 and serve with lobster sauce1 shrimp ditto1 or plain melted butter in a boat1 with fresh sprigs of parsley boiled a few minutes in it4 ,a salmon weighing about ten pounds will require an hour's gentle boiling2 a head and shoulders weighing six pounds1 half an hour2 the remains may be dressed la crme1 as directed for the turbot4 #bag4 ,salmon1 ,sauce ,matelote4--,cook three good slices of salmon as directed in the last1 or a large salmon peal trussed in the form of the letter ,s1 dress it upon a dish without a napkin1 having previously drained off all the water2 have ready one quart of matelote sauce1 under or over4 ,to broil salmon1 dip each piece in flour1 put it on a gridiron1 fifteen minutes will give it a nice pale color2 it should be served with ,dutch or caper sauce4 ,cod4--,this fish1 like the former1 belongs to the northern parts of the world2 its flavor and quality1 like terrestrial animals1 depend greatly on its feeding-place1 a few miles making a marked difference2 it is exceedingly voracious4 ,those are best with a small head and thick at the neck4 #bah4 ,to boil ,cod ,fish4--,crimped cod1 as ,i have before remarked1 is preferable to the plain2 it is likewise better cut in slices than cooked whole2 to boil it well1 have the water ready boiling1 with one pound of salt to every six quarts1 put in your fish1 draw the fish-kettle to the corner of the fire1 where let it simmer slowly from twenty minutes to half an hour1 when done1 the bone in the centre will draw out easily2 if boiled too much1 it would eat tough and stringy2 should the fish not be crimped1 add more salt to the water1 it will cause the fish to eat firmer4 #bai4 ,cod ,fish sauced over with ,oyster ,sauce4--,boil three slices of the fish as above1 drain and dress them upon a dish without a napkin1 blanch three dozen oysters1 by putting them into a stewpan1 with their juice1 upon the fire1 move them round occasionally1 do not let them boil2 as soon as they become a little firm1 place a sieve over a basin1 pour in the oysters1 beard and throw them again into their liquor1 put them into a stewpan2 when boiling1 add two cloves1 half a blade of mace1 six peppercorns1 and two ounces of butter1 to which you have added a tablespoonful of flour1 breaking it into small pieces1 stir well together1 when boiling1 season with a little salt1 cayenne pepper1 and essence of anchovies1 finish with a gill of cream or milk1 and sauce over4 ,the remains of this fish may be taken from the bone and placed upon a dish1 with a little of the above sauce 7to which you have added the yolks of two eggs7 over1 sprinkle over with bread-crumbs1 and place it twenty minutes in a hot oven1 till the bread-crumbs become brown4 #bbj4 ,salt ,fish4--,choose the fish with a black skin1 and be particular in soaking it well2 to boil1 put it into a fish-kettle1 with plenty of cold water1 place it over the fire1 and the moment it boils remove it to the corner1 to simmer until done1 which1 if a piece weighing about three pounds1 would be in about twenty minutes2 do not let it boil fast1 or the fish would eat hard and thready2 dish it upon a napkin1 with plain boiled parsnips and parsley round1 and serve egg sauce in a boat4 ,haddock1 the callarias and galeris of the ,romans4 ,this is also the fish that it is said ,st4 ,peter took the tribute money from1 and thus gave the impression of his finger and thumb1 where it remains in confirmation of the miracle4 ,it has a very fine flavor when fresh and in season1 which is when the roe is very small2 the time depends on the place where taken1 but generally about ,october4 ,i think one weighing from six to seven pounds is the best size1 although ,i have had them at twelve pounds4 ,the same features as in the cod will tell if they are fresh4 #bba4 ,haddock4--,this is a fish which ,i can highly recommend1 both for its firmness and lightness2 it is excellent plain boiled1 and served with a cream sauce or any other fish sauce4 ,but the better plan is to cut four or five incisions upon each side of the fish1 an inch deep1 then put it into a deep dish1 and cover well with salt1 let it remain about two hours1 then put the fish in boiling water1 to simmer from thirty to forty minutes2 if a fish of five or six pounds in weight1 dish it on a napkin garnished with plain boiled parsnips and parsley1 with egg sauce in a boat4 #bbb4 ,baked ,haddock4--,fill the interior of the fish with veal stuffing1 sew it up with packthread1 and truss it with the tail in its mouth1 rub a piece of butter over the back1 or egg and bread-crumb it over1 set it on a baking-dish1 which put in a warmish oven to bake1 if a ,dublin bay haddock1 it would take from three quarters of an hour to an hour1 but a common haddock would require but half an hour2 the better plan is to run the point of a knife down to the backbone1 from which1 if the flesh parts easily1 it is done1 when dress it upon a dish without a napkin1 and serve a ,beyrout sauce1 or any other1 round4 ,sturgeon derives its name from the ,german stoeren1 to stir1 to rake up2 it is from the same word we derive our word stir4 ,it is the accipenser of the ,romans4 ,this fish has long been in use in ,england1 but1 from its scarcity1 it has always been expensive--indeed1 it has been considered as a royal fish2 for every one caught in the rivers of ,england belongs to the ,queen1 with the exception of the river ,thames1 which belongs to the ,lord ,mayor4 ,the flavor of the young sturgeon is extremely delicate1 but that materially depends upon the river in which it is caught1 as it feeds upon the insects and plants1--in fact1 entirely by suction2 those caught in rapid rivers and sandy bottoms1 and where they have the advantage of salt and fresh water1 are the best4 #bbc4 ,economical mode of cooking ,sturgeon4--,take a piece of sturgeon about two pounds weight1 and on sending a piece of meat to the baker's to be baked on a stand in a dish1 put the sturgeon under it1 with a little water1 salt1 pepper1 c41 and a little chopped eschalot may be used2 you can also put potatoes round it4 ,peas1 if in season1 are a good accompaniment1 with melted butter4 #bbd4 ,to roast ,sturgeon4--,take the tail part1 skin and bone it2 fill the part where the bone comes from with some stuffing1 as for a fillet of veal2 put butter and paper round it1 and tie it up like a fillet of veal2 roast1 and serve it with melted butter and gravy4 ,they may be cooked precisely as veal1 in large or small pieces1 as for fricandeau1 papillote1 c41 and even salted1 in imitation of tunny4 ,mackerel4--,this is generally recognized as the scomber of the ,romans1 by whom it was much esteemed2 at the present day it is not held in that high estimation that it was some years since3 the great supply which is now received from different parts of the coast at all seasons of the year may have a tendency to cause this4 ,it is a fish which requires to be eaten very fresh1 and soon becomes tainted4 ,the soft roe of this fish is highly esteemed1 and ,i have no doubt but that it was equally so with the ,romans1 and ,i believe it was an ingredient of the garum4 ,when fresh1 their skin is of a sea-green color1 and very beautiful2 fine bright golden eyes1 and gills very red2 they should be plump1 but not too large2 they should be cleaned by cutting their gills1 so that1 when pulled1 the interior of the fish will come with them2 wipe them well1 cut off the fins1 and trim the tail4 #bbe4 ,mackerel are generally served plain boiled2 put them in a kettle containing boiling water1 well salted1 let simmer nearly half an hour1 take them up1 drain1 and dish them upon a napkin2 serve melted butter in a boat1 with which you have mixed a tablespoonful of chopped fennel1 boiling it a few minutes4 #bbf4 ,mackerel la ,matre d',htel4--,cut an incision down the back of a mackerel1 close to the bone1 season it with a little pepper1 salt1 and cayenne1 if approved of1 butter the skin well1 and place the fish upon a gridiron over a moderate fire1 for about twenty minutes1 turning it over when half done2 when done1 have ready two ounces of matre d'htel butter1 half of which put in the incision at the back1 previously putting the mackerel upon a hot dish without a napkin1 spread the other half over2 place it in the oven a few minutes1 and serve very hot4 #bbg4 ,mackerel au ,beurre ,noir4--,split the mackerel open at the back1 making it quite flat1 season with a little pepper and salt1 and butter it all over1 lay it upon a gridiron over a moderate fire1 turning it when half done1 for about a quarter of an hour1 when place it upon a dish without a napkin1 then put six ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan1 which place over a sharp fire until the butter becomes black1 but not burnt1 when throw in about fifty leaves of picked parsley1 which fry crisp1 and pour over the fish1 put three tablespoonfuls of common vinegar into the stewpan1 which boil half a minute1 season with pepper and salt1 pour this also over the fish1 which put into the oven five minutes1 and serve very hot4 #bbh4 ,to stew ,mackerel4--,take off the heads1 the fins1 and tails1 and1 having opened the fish and taken out all the hard roes1 dry them with a cloth and dredge them lightly with flour2 place three or four of them in a stewpan1 with a lump of butter1 the size of a walnut1 to each fish2 put into a small basin a teacupful of water1 a tablespoonful of finely-chopped onions1 the same of chopped parsley1 a blade or two of mace1 a little pepper and salt1 a tablespoonful of anchovy essence1 and a small teacupful of ale or porter 7if not bitter74 ,add a tablespoonful of grated bread-crust1 not burnt1 but a light brown2 pour all these ingredients over the fish1 and let them stew gently for twenty minutes2 have ready the yolks of three eggs1 well-beaten1 and when the fish is sufficiently done1 take some of the gravy and mix gradually with the eggs1 and1 pouring them on the fish1 shake the stewpan a little over the fire to thicken the whole1 but not to curdle the eggs2 the soft roes added are an improvement3 have ready more grated crust1 and having placed the fish whole in the dish1 shake a little of the grated crust over the whole1 so as to make it of a handsome brown4 ,the ,receipt requires to be carefully followed4 ,if the gravy is too thick1 more water may be added2 also a glass of sherry1 if liked4 #bbi4 ,fried ,whiting4--,the whiting is generally skinned1 and the tail turned round and fixed into the mouth2 dip it first into flour1 then egg over and dip it into bread-crumbs1 fry as directed for the sole2 for whiting aux fines herbes1 proceed as directed for sole aux fines herbes4 ,i prefer the whiting fried with their skins on1 merely dipping them in flour4 #bcj4 ,whiting au ,gratin4--,put a good spoonful of chopped onions upon a strong earthen dish1 with a glass of wine1 season the whiting with a little pepper and salt1 put it in the dish1 sprinkle some chopped parsley and chopped mushrooms over1 and pour over half a pint of anchovy sauce1 over which sprinkle some brown bread-crumbs1 grated from the crust of bread1 place it in a warm oven half an hour2 it requires to be nicely browned2 serve upon the dish you have cooked it in4 #bca4 ,red ,mullets4--,procure two red mullets1 which place upon a strong dish1 not too large1 sprinkle a little chopped onions1 parsley1 a little pepper and salt1 and a little salad-oil over1 and put them into a warm oven for half an hour1 then put half a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan1 with a teaspoonful of salad-oil1 stir over a moderate fire until getting rather yellowish1 then add a tablespoonful of sherry1 half a pint of white sauce or melted butter1 with a little chopped parsley2 reduce over a sharp fire1 keeping it stirred until becoming rather thick2 when the mullets are done1 sauce over and serve4 #bcb4 ,red ,mullet en papillote4--,cut a sheet of foolscap paper in the form of a heart1 lay it on the table and oil it1 put the mullet on one side1 season with salt1 pepper1 and chopped eschalot1 fold the paper over and plait both edges together1 and broil on a slow fire for half an hour1 turning carefully now and then2 serve without a napkin2 they are excellent done thus1 without sauce1 but1 if any is required1 use melted butter1 cream ,hollandaise1 anchovy or ,italian sauce4 #bcc4 ,red ,mullets saut in ,butter4--,put two ounces of butter in a pan2 when melted1 put in one or two small mullets1 and season with a teaspoonful of salt1 half ditto of pepper1 and the juice of half a lemon2 set it on a slow fire and turn carefully2 when done1 dish and serve plain1 or with any of the sauces named in the former receipt4 ,herrings1 when in season1 that is1 when the roe is just forming1 are most excellent and wholesome fish1 when eaten fresh2 ,i have this day 7the #beth of ,april7 partaken of some1 caught in twenty-four fathoms of water1 about twelve miles off the coast of ,folkestone1 in which you could just distinguish the formation of the roe4 ,the richness of the fish at this period is extraordinary1 and renders it worthy the table of the greatest epicure4 ,as this fish is now of so great importance as an article of food1 ,i shall refer more at length to it in my letters on pickling and preserving1 and give you a description of my new plan of curing and smoking1 and also what ,i consider its medicinal and other properties4 ,its different modes of cooking are as follows3 #bcd4 ,herrings boiled4--,boil six herrings about twenty minutes in plenty of salt and water1 but only just to simmer2 then have ready the following sauce3 put half a gill of cream upon the fire in a stewpan2 when it boils1 add eight spoonfuls of melted butter1 an ounce of fresh butter1 a little pepper1 salt1 and the juice of half a lemon2 dress the fish upon a dish without a napkin1 sauce over and serve4 #bce4 ,herrings broiled1 ,sauce ,dijon4--,the delicacy of these fish prevents their being dressed in any other way than boiled or broiled2 they certainly can be bread-crumbed and fried1 but scarcely any person would like them2 ,i prefer them dressed in the following way3 wipe them well with a cloth1 and cut three incisions slantwise upon each side1 dip them in flour and broil slowly over a moderate fire2 when done1 sprinkle a little salt over1 dress them upon a napkin1 garnish with parsley1 and serve the following sauce in a boat3 put eight tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan1 with two of ,french mustard1 or one of ,english1 an ounce of fresh butter1 and a little pepper and salt2 when upon the point of boiling1 serve4 ,smelts4--,many have confounded them with the salmon-fry or smelt of one year old1 whereas the smelt has roe and the fry none2 it ascends rivers to deposit its spawn in ,november1 ,december1 and ,january1 and the rest of the year they are considered in season1 but they vary like the salmon1 according to the river4 ,this fish1 when fresh1 has a beautiful smell of violets or cucumbers1 but the ,germans call it stinck fish1 ,i know not why2 they lose this perfume in about twelve hours after being taken2 they should be very stiff and firm1 bright eyes1 and transparent skin4 ,this fish is very delicate1 and requires very great attention in cleaning1 merely pulling out the gills1 the inside will come with them2 they should be wiped lightly4 ,when split and dried1 they are called sparlings4 #bcf4 ,to fry ,smelts4--,dry them in a cloth1 and dip them in flour2 then have half an ounce of butter of clear fat melted in a basin1 into which break the yolk of two eggs1 with which rub the smelts over with a brush1 dip them in bread-crumbs1 fry in very hot lard1 dress them on a napkin1 garnish with parsley1 and serve with shrimp sauce in a boat4 ,white ,bait4--,this is a fish which belongs especially to ,london2 although it is obtainable in other rivers in ,great ,britain and the ,continent1 yet it is not sought for2 great difference of opinion exists amongst naturalists as to what fish this is the young of2 in my humble opinion1 ,i think it is a species distinct of itself1 having a life of short duration4 ,it is caught only in brackish water1 floating up and down the river1 according to the tide1--in very dry summers as high up as ,greenwich1 and in very wet as low as ,gravesend4 ,they spawn in winter1 and make their appearance1 about one inch in length1 early in ,march4 ,they should be cooked as follows3 #bcg4 ,white ,bait4--,put them in a cloth1 which shake gently so as to dry them2 then place them in some very fine bread-crumbs and flour mixed2 toss them lightly with the hands1 take them out immediately and put them in a wire basket1 and fry them in hot lard2 one minute will cook them2 turn them out on a cloth1 sprinkle a little salt over1 and serve very hot4 ,should you not have a wire basket1 sprinkle them into the pan1 and as soon as they rise take them out4 ,turbot we consider the finest of flat-fish2 and so it was1 no doubt1 considered by the ,romans3 hence the proverb1 ,nihil ad rhombum1 although ,linnus1 from his classification1 would make us believe it was the brill or bret1 but ,i do not think so meanly of the epicures of those days as to imagine it4 ,its flavor depends greatly upon the place where taken1 resulting from its food1 feeding principally upon young crabs and lobsters2 therefore it is not surprising that lobster sauce accompanies it when cooked4 ,i prefer them of a middling size1 not too large1 but thick1 and if bled when caught1 so much the better4 ,should you be at the seaside1 and buy one rather cheap1 because it has red spots on the belly1 remove them by rubbing salt and lemon on the spot4 ,in my opinion they are better1 and more digestible1 and of finer flavor1 forty-eight hours after being killed1 than when fresh4 #bch4 ,turbot4--,to cook it2 cut an incision in the back1 rub it well with a good handful of salt1 and then with the juice of a lemon2 set it in a turbot kettle1 well covered with cold water1 in which you have put a good handful of salt2 place it over the fire1 and as soon as boiling1 put it at the side 7where it must not be allowed to more than simmer very slowly1 or the fish would have a very unsightly appearance74 ,a turbot of ten pounds weight will take about an hour to cook after it has boiled 7but1 to be certain1 ascertain whether the flesh will leave the bone easily72 take it out of the water1 let it remain a minute upon the drainer1 and serve upon a napkin1 with a few sprigs of fresh parsley round1 and lobster sauce or shrimp sauce1 in a boat4 #bci4 ,turbot1 the new ,french fashion4--,boil your turbot as in the last1 but dress it upon a dish without a napkin1 sauce over with a thick caper sauce 7having made a border of small new potatoes71 sprinkle a few capers over the fish1 and serve4 #bdj4 ,turbot la ,crme is made from the remains of a turbot left from a previous dinner2 pick all the flesh from the bones1 which warm in salt and water1 and have ready the following sauce3 put one ounce of flour into a stewpan1 to which add by degrees a quart of milk1 mixing it very smoothly2 then add two peeled eschalots1 a bouquet of parsley1 a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme tied together1 a little grated nutmeg1 a teaspoonful of salt1 and a quarter ditto of pepper2 place it over the fire1 stirring until it forms rather a thickish sauce1 then take it from the fire1 stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter1 and pass it through a tammy2 lay a little of it upon the bottom of a convenient sized dish1 then a layer of the fish1 season lightly with a little white pepper and salt1 then another layer of sauce1 proceeding thus until the fish is all used1 finishing with sauce2 sprinkle a few bread-crumbs over1 and put it into a warm oven half an hour2 brown with the salamander1 and serve upon the dish it is baked on4 ,any remains of boiled fish may be dressed the same way4 #bda4 ,soles fried4--,have about four pounds of lard or clean fat in a small fish-kettle1 which place over a moderate fire1 then cut off the fins of the sole1 and dip it into flour1 shake part of the flour off1 have an egg well beaten upon a plate1 with which brush the fish all over1 and cover it with bread-crumbs2 ascertain if the lard is hot1 by throwing in a few bread-crumbs1 it will hiss if sufficiently hot1 put in the fish1 which will require nearly ten minutes cooking1 and ought to be perfectly crisp1 drain it on a cloth1 dish upon a napkin1 garnish with parsley1 and serve shrimp sauce in a boat4 ,the above quantity of lard or fat1 if carefully used and not burnt1 would do for several occasions1 by straining it off each time after using4 ,all kinds of fish1 such as eels1 smelts1 whitings1 flounders1 perch1 gudgeons1 c41 are fried precisely in the same manner4 #bdb4 ,soles1 saut in ,oil4--,trim the fish well1 dip it into a couple of eggs1 well beaten1 put six tablespoonfuls of salad-oil in a saut-pan1 place it over the fire1 and when quite hot put in your sole1 let it remain five minutes1 turn over1 and saut upon the other side1 ten or twelve minutes will cook it1 according to the size2 serve upon a napkin without sauce2 they are excellent cold4 #bdc4 ,sole a la ,meunire4--,cut the fins off a sole1 and make four incisions across it upon each side with a knife1 then rub half a tablespoonful of salt and chopped onions well into it1 dip in flour1 and broil it over a slow fire2 also have ready two ounces of fresh butter1 mixed with the juice of a lemon1 and a little cayenne1 which rub over the sole1 previously laid in a hot dish1 without a napkin1 turn the fish over once or twice1 put it in the oven a minute1 and serve very hot4 #bdd4 ,soles aux fines herbes4--,put a spoonful of chopped eschalots into a saut-pan1 with a glass of sherry and an ounce of butter1 place the sole over1 pour nearly half a pint of melted butter over it1 or four spoonfuls of brown gravy or water1 upon which sprinkle some chopped parsley1 place it in a moderate oven for half an hour1 take the sole out of the pan1 dress upon a dish without a napkin1 reduce the sauce that is in the pan over a sharp fire1 add a little ,harvey sauce and essence of anchovy1 pour over the sole1 and serve4 ,soles may also be plain boiled1 using the same precautions as directed for turbot1 and serve without a napkin1 and a cream sauce poured over2 or it may be served upon a napkin garnished with parsley1 and a little shrimp sauce1 or plain melted butter1 in a boat4 #bde4 ,flounders1 ,water ,souchet4--,procure four or six ,thames flounders1 trim and cut in halves2 put half a pint of water in a saut-pan1 with a little scraped horseradish1 a little pepper1 salt1 sugar1 and forty sprigs of fresh parsley2 place over the fire1 boil a minute1 then add the flounders1 stew ten minutes1 take them out and place in a dish without a napkin1 reduce the liquor they were stewed in a little1 pour over and serve4 ,to fry flounders1 trim them1 and proceed precisely as directed for fried soles3 three minutes is sufficient4 ,skate1 also called ,maid1 ,ray1 is not appreciated equal to what it ought to be2 we generally have only the fin part1 which is cut off and put into fresh water1 where it curls up4 ,it is a very invigorating fish1 and ,i think deserves the attention of the medical profession4 ,it is best cooked as follows3 #bdf4 ,skate4--,procure two or three slices1 tie them with string to keep the shape in boiling1 put them into a kettle of boiling water1 in which you have put a good handful of salt2 boil gently about twenty minutes 7have ready also a piece of the liver1 which boil with them72 when done1 drain well1 and put them upon a dish without a napkin2 put three parts of a pint of melted butter in a stewpan1 place it upon the fire1 and when quite hot add a wineglassful of capers1 sauce over1 and serve4 #bdg4 ,skate au ,beurre ,noir4--,boil a piece of skate as directed in the last2 when done1 drain it well1 put it upon a dish without a napkin1 and proceed exactly as directed for mackerel au beurre noir4 ,skate may also be served upon a napkin1 with a boat of well-seasoned melted butter1 to which you have added a spoonful of ,harvey sauce and one of anchovy4 ,pike4--,this fish spawns in ,march and ,april1 according to the season4 ,when in perfection1 their colors are very bright1 being green1 spotted with bright yellow1 and the gills are a bright red2 when out of season1 the green changes to gray1 and the yellow spots assume a pale hue4 ,it may be called the shark of fresh water4 ,those caught in a river or running stream are far superior to those caught in ponds1 which often get too fat1 and taste muddy4 ,a middling-sized one1 weighing about five pounds1 would be best2 when fresh1 the eyes must be very transparent1 the scales bluish1 and not dry upon the back1 or it would not clean well4 ,the dressing is generally the making of the fish1 as regards the approbation bestowed upon it4 ,to clean them1 have a sharp-pointed knife1 put the point carefully under the scales 7without piercing the skin7 at the tail of the fish1 pass the knife gently up the back to the head1 dividing the scales from the skin carefully2 you may then take off the whole of the scales in one piece 7should this process appear too difficult1 they may be scraped off in the ordinary way1 it will not look so white1 but would eat equally as good72 then make two incisions in the belly1 a small one close to the bladder1 and a larger one above2 pull out the gills one at a time with a strong cloth1 and if the interior does not come with them1 take it out from the incisions1 and wash the fish well2 the cutting off the fins is quite a matter of taste3 it is usually done4 #bdh4 ,pike4--,clean as directed above1 stuff the interior as directed for haddocks1 only adding some fillets of anchovies and chopped lemon-peel with it2 curl round and put in a baking-dish1 spread a little butter all over1 put in a moderate oven1 when about half done egg over with a paste-brush1 and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon it2 a middling-sized pike will take about an hour1 but that according to the size and the heat of the oven2 when done1 dress upon a dish without a napkin1 and sauce round as directed for baked haddock above referred to4 #bdi4 ,pike1 ,sauce ,matelote4--,cook a pike exactly as in the last1 dress it upon a dish without a napkin1 and sauce with a matelote sauce over1 made as directed for salmon sauce matelote4 ,this fish may also be served with caper sauce1 as directed for the skate2 the smaller ones are the best2 the remains of a pike placed in the oven the next day1 with a cover over it and a little more sauce added1 is very nice4 #bej4 ,baked ,carp4--,procure a good-sized carp1 stuff it1 then put it into a baking-dish1 with two onions1 one carrot1 one turnip1 one head of celery1 and a good bouquet of parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaf2 moisten with two glasses of port wine1 half a pint of water1 salt1 pepper1 and oil1 and put it into a moderate oven about two hours to bake2 try if done with a knife1 which is the case if the flesh leaves the bone easily1 dress upon a dish without a napkin1 then have ready the following sauce3 mince a large ,spanish onion with two common ones1 and put them into a stewpan with three spoonfuls of salad-oil1 saut rather a yellow color1 add two glasses of port wine and one spoonful of flour1 mix all well together1 add a pint of broth 7reserved from some soup7 or water1 with half an ounce of glaze1 or half a gill of brown gravy1 or a few drops of coloring1 boil it up1 drain the stock the carp was cooked in from the vegetables1 which also add to the sauce2 boil well at the corner of the stove1 skim1 and when rather thick add a teaspoonful of ,harvey sauce1 one of essence of anchovies1 twelve pickled mushrooms1 and a little cayenne pepper1 pour all the liquor drained from the fish out of your dish1 sauce over1 and serve4 #bea4 ,carp1 ,sauce ,matelote4--,put your carp in a small oval fish-kettle1 with wine and vegetables as in the last1 to which add also a pint of water and a little salt1 with a few cloves and peppercorns2 put the lid upon the fish-kettle1 and stand it over a moderate fire to stew about an hour1 according to the size2 when done1 drain well1 dress upon a dish without a napkin1 and sauce over with a matelote sauce1 made as directed for salmon sauce matelote1 or caper sauce1 as for skate2 small carp are very good-flavored1 bread-crumbed and fried4 ,trout4--,there are several kinds1 none of which1 it seems1 were known to the ,romans4 ,this is the salmon of fresh water1 and bears a very close resemblance to it in flavor4 ,they grow to a very large size2 ,i partook of part of one weighing twenty-six pounds1 which was caught in the ,lake of ,killarney1 in ,july1 #ahdh4 ,they have different names in various parts of ,great ,britain1 but there is the common trout1 the white trout1 and the sea trout2 the white trout never grows very large1 but the sea trout does1 and is of a very fine flavor4 ,river ,trout1 when fresh1 have the most beautiful skin imaginable1 the golden and sometimes silvery tint of which makes me term it the sister fish of the red 7sea7 mullet2 should the gills be pink instead of red1 and the skin dry 7which is frequently the case on the second day71 they may still be eatable1 but their succulence goes with their beauty4 ,clean them as directed for salmon4 #beb4 ,trout la ,twickenham4--,when you have cleaned your trout1 put them into a kettle of boiling water1 to which you have added a good handful of salt1 and a wineglassful of vinegar2 boil gently about twenty minutes1 or according to their size1 dress upon a napkin1 and serve melted butter1 into which you have put a tablespoonful of chopped gherkins1 two sprigs of chopped parsley1 salt and pepper1 in a boat4 ,the remains of trout1 salmon1 or mackerel are excellent pickled3--put three onions in slices in a stewpan1 with two ounces of butter1 one turnip1 a bouquet of parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaf1 pass them five minutes over the fire1 add a pint of water and a pint of vinegar1 two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper1 boil until the onions are tender1 then strain it through a sieve over the fish2 it will keep some time if required1 and then do to pickle more fish by boiling over again4 #bec4 ,trout la ,burton4--,boil the trout as in the last2 then put half a pint of melted butter in a stewpan1 with two tablespoonfuls of cream1 place it upon the fire1 and when upon the point of boiling add a liaison of one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream 7dress the fish upon a dish without a napkin71 put two ounces of fresh butter1 a pinch of salt1 and the juice of a lemon into the sauce2 shake round over the fire1 but do not let it boil2 sauce over the fish1 sprinkle some chopped parsley1 and serve4 ,perch were known to the ,romans1 and those they received from ,britain were considered the best4 ,they do not grow to a very large size1 four pounds being considered a large one4 ,when fresh1 are reddish at the eyes and gills4 ,these fish1 having a great objection to part with their scales1 must be scraped almost alive1 forming the fish into the shape of the letter ,s1 and scraping with an oyster-knife2 open the belly1 take out the interior1 pull away the gills1 and wash well4 ,when large1 they are frequently boiled with the scales on1 and they are taken off afterwards1 which is much easier4 #bed4 ,perch sautd in ,butter4--,clean the fish as explained above1 dry well1 make an incision upon each side with a knife1 put a quarter of a pound of butter in a saut-pan over a slow fire1 lay in the fish1 season with salt1 and saut gently1 turning them over when half done2 when done1 dress upon a napkin1 and serve melted butter in a boat1 or shrimp sauce4 ,small ones should be dressed thus4 #bee4 ,perch1 ,hampton ,court fashion4--,cook the fish as above1 and have ready the following sauce3 put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan1 with a little salt and the juice of a lemon2 when upon the point of boiling1 stir in the yolk of an egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream2 do not let it boil2 blanch about twenty small sprigs of parsley in boiling water ten minutes1 and some small pieces of rind of lemon for one minute1 drain1 and put them in the sauce1 which pour over the fish1 and serve4 ,perch may also be served plain boiled or stewed as directed for tench1 with sauce served separate4 #bef4 ,stewed ,tench4--,put two onions1 a carrot1 and turnip1 cut in slices1 into a stewpan1 or very small fish-kettle1 with a good bouquet of parsley1 a few sprigs of thyme1 one bay-leaf1 six cloves1 a blade of mace1 a little salt and pepper1 and two glasses of sherry2 lay your tench over 7it will require four for a dish1 and they may be either cooked whole or each one cut into two or three pieces71 add a pint of water1 cover down close1 and stew rather gently over a slow fire for about half an hour2 take them out1 drain upon a cloth1 dress upon a dish without a napkin1 and pour a sauce over made as directed for sauce matelote1 cream sauce1 or ,beyrout4 #beg4 ,tench with ,anchovy ,butter4--,cook the tench as in the last1 but they may be plain boiled in salt and water2 dress upon a dish without a napkin1 then put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan1 with one of milk2 place it upon the fire1 and1 when upon the point of boiling1 add an ounce of anchovy butter2 shake it round over the fire until the butter is melted1 when sauce over and serve4 ,the ,eel is greatly esteemed in all countries1 but it differs in taste according to the river from whence it is taken2 although we have some very fine eels in the river ,thames1 yet our principal supply is received from ,holland1 and the fish which come from thence are much improved in flavor by the voyage1 and even increase in size4 ,they arrive in the river ,thames in vessels called eel scootes 7schuyts71 of which four have been allowed1 for centuries1 to moor opposite the ,custom ,house1 and the others are obliged to remain in ,erith ,hole until there is room for them1 which greatly improves the fish3 the value of those imported into ,london last year amounted to #acb1fjjl4 ,nothing is more difficult to kill than eels2 and it is only by knocking their heads upon a block or hard substance1 and stunning them1 that they suffer least4 ,take the head in your hand with a cloth1 and just cut through the skin round the neck1 which turn down about an inch2 then pull the head with one hand1 and the skin with the other1 it will come off with facility2 open the belly1 take out the interior without breaking the gall1 and cut off the bristles which run up the back4 ,they are in season all the year round4 #beh4 ,eels1 fried4--,cut your eels into pieces three inches long1 dip the pieces into flour1 egg over with a paste brush1 and throw them into some bread-crumbs2 fry in hot lard as directed for fried soles4 #bei4 ,stewed ,eels1 ,sauce ,matelote4--,procure as large eels as possible1 which cut into pieces three inches long1 and put them into a stewpan1 with an onion1 a bouquet of two bay-leaves1 a sprig of thyme and parsley1 six cloves1 a blade of mace1 a glass of sherry1 and two of water2 place the stewpan over a moderate fire1 and let simmer about twenty minutes1 or according to the size of the eels2 when done1 drain upon a cloth1 dress them in pyramid upon a dish without a napkin1 with a matelote sauce over1 made as directed for salmon sauce matelote1 but using the stock your eels have been cooked in to make the sauce1 having previously well boiled it to extract all the fat4 #bfj4 ,eels la ,tartare4--,fry as directed above1 and serve on some ,tartare sauce2 or partly stew first1 and1 when cold1 egg1 bread-crumb1 and broil gently4 #bfa4 ,spitchcocked ,eels1 in some parts of ,england1 are cooked with the skins on4 ,they should be properly cleaned1 and split down the back1 and bone taken out1 and cut into pieces of about four inches long2 egg the inside and throw over some bread-crumbs1 in which have been mixed some chopped parsley1 a little dried thyme1 and some cayenne2 place them in a ,dutch oven before the fire1 and whilst cooking1 baste them with butter in which some essence of anchovies has been mixed4 ,the time they take cooking depends on the size1 but may be known by the skin turning up4 #bfb4 ,conger ,eel is little appreciated in this country1 although amongst the working class of our neighbors1 more particularly the ,french1 it is an article of great consumption4 ,if alive1 its head should be cut off1 and it should bleed as much as possible2 but if dead1 the pieces should be put into lukewarm water to disgorge previous to being cooked4 ,the young fry are exceedingly good1 and may be dressed like fresh-water eels4 ,the large ones may be made into soup2 and can also be cooked like sturgeon4 #bfc4 ,french ,angler's way of ,stewing ,fish4--,take about four pounds or less of all kinds of fish1 that is1 carp1 pike1 trout1 tench1 eels1 c41 or any one of them1 cut them into nice middle-sized pieces1 no matter the size of the fish--let the pieces be of equal size2 put them in a black pot or stewpan1 season over with nearly a tablespoonful of salt1 half one of pepper1 half one of sugar1 four good-sized onions1 sliced thin1 add a half bottle of common ,french wine1 or four glasses of port or sherry1 half a pint of water1 set it on the fire to stew1 gently tossing it now and then2 when tender1 which you may easily ascertain by feeling with your finger the different pieces1 mix a spoonful of flour with two ounces of butter1 which put bit by bit in the pan1 move it round by shaking the pan1 not with any spoon2 boil a few minutes longer1 and serve1 dishing the fish in pyramid1 sauce over2 if the sauce is too thin1 reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon2 taste1 if it is highly seasoned1 a few sprigs of thyme or bay-leaf may be added4 ,some of the fish may be done sooner than the others2 if so1 take them out first1 and keep warm until all are done4 ,the motive of mixing fish is1 that it is supposed the flavor of all together is finer than one alone4 ,conger eel is also done in this way4 ,,fish ,,sauces4 ,in all ages and countries at all removed from barbarism1 where fish has formed an article of diet1 sauces of various kinds have been an accompaniment4 ,with the ,romans1 in the time of ,lucullus1 great care was observed in their preparation2 amongst others which they used1 and the most celebrated1 was the ,garum and the ,muria4 ,the ,garum was the sauce the most esteemed and the most expensive2 its composition is unknown4 ,this is a subject well worth the attention of the epicures of the present day2 they should subscribe and offer a premium for that which1 in their opinion1 may resemble it3 it is a subject well worthy the attention of the ,professors of our ,universities4 ,perhaps some leaf yet undiscovered1 that may have escaped the conflagration of ,alexandria1 might throw some light upon so interesting a subject4 ,it appears1 that mushrooms entered greatly into its composition2 and that parts of mackerel1 or of that species1 formed another4 ,the question is1 at what time of the year were mushrooms in season there2 and if at that period mackerel1 or what species of mackerel have soft roes1 as ,i think it probable that they entered into its composition1 as an island near ,carthaginia1 where they were caught1 was called ,scombraria1 and that which was prepared by a company in that town1 and which was considered the best1 was called ,garum ,sociorum4 ,the ,muria was the liquid in which the tunny was pickled1 and no doubt very similar to our essence of anchovies4 ,those most generally in use at the present day are the following1 in addition to which there are various kinds made and sold in bottles1 some of which are much cheaper to buy than to make4 #bfd4 ,melted ,butter4--,put into a stewpan two ounces of butter1 not too hard1 also a good tablespoonful of flour1 mix both well with a wooden spoon1 without putting it on the fire2 when forming a smooth paste1 add to it a little better than half a pint of water2 season with a teaspoonful of salt1 not too full1 the sixth part that of pepper2 set it on the fire1 stir round continually until on the point of boiling2 take it off1 add a teaspoonful of brown vinegar1 then add one ounce more of fresh butter1 which stir in your sauce till melted1 then use where required2 a little nutmeg grated may be introduced2 it ought1 when done1 to adhere lightly to the back of the spoon1 but transparent1 not pasty2 it may also1 if required1 be passed through a tammy or sieve4 ,if wanted plainer1 the last butter may be omitted4 #bfe4 ,anchovy ,sauce4--,make the same quantity of melted butter as in the last1 but omit the salt1 and add three good tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies4 #bff4 ,fennel ,sauce4--,this is a sauce principally used for boiled mackerel4 ,make the same quantity of melted butter as in the last1 to which add a good tablespoonful of chopped fennel2 it is usually served in a boat4 #bfg4 ,egg ,sauce is generally served with salt-fish or haddock4 ,boil six eggs ten minutes1 let them get cold1 then cut them in pieces about the size of dice1 put them into a stewpan1 with three parts of a pint of melted butter1 add an ounce more fresh butter1 with a little pepper and salt2 keep the stewpan moving round over the fire until the whole is very hot1 and serve in a boat4 #bfh4 ,shrimp ,sauce4--,make the same quantity of melted butter as before1 to which add three tablespoonfuls of essence of shrimps1 but omitting the salt2 add half a pint of picked shrimps1 and serve in a boat4 ,if no essence of shrimps1 some anchovy sauce may be served with shrimps in it as a substitute4 #bfi4 ,shrimp ,sauce is also very good as follows3 ,pound half a pint of shrimps1 skins and all1 in a mortar1 and boil them ten minutes in half a pint of water2 pass the liquor through a hair sieve into a stewpan1 and add a piece of butter the size of two walnuts1 with which you have mixed a good teaspoonful of flour1 stir it round over the fire until upon the point of boiling2 if too thick1 add a little more water2 season with a little cayenne1 and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies2 serve very hot2 a few picked shrimps might also be served in it4 #bgj4 ,caper ,sauce4--,put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan1 place it on the fire1 and when on the point of boiling1 add two ounces of fresh butter and one tablespoonful of capers2 shake the stewpan round over the fire until the butter is melted1 add a little pepper and salt1 and serve where directed4 #bga4 ,lobster ,sauce4--,put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan1 cut up a small-sized lobster into dice1 make a quarter of a pound of lobster butter with the spawn1 as directed2 when the melted butter is upon the point of boiling1 add the lobster butter1 stir the sauce round over the fire until the butter is melted1 season with a little essence of anchovies1 the juice of half a lemon1 and a quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper2 pass it through a tammy into another stewpan1 and add the flesh of the lobster2 when hot1 it is ready to serve where required4 ,this sauce must be quite red2 if no red spawn in the lobster1 use live spawn4 #bgb4 ,new and ,economical ,lobster ,sauce4--,should you require to use the solid flesh of a lobster for salad1 or any other purpose1 pound the soft part and shell together 7in a mortar7 very fine1 which put into a stewpan1 covered with a pint of boiling water2 place it over the fire to simmer for ten minutes1 then pass the liquor through a hair sieve into a basin2 put three ounces of butter into a stewpan1 into which rub 7cold7 a good tablespoonful of flour1 add the liquor from the lobster1 place it upon the fire1 stirring until upon the point of boiling1 season with a little cayenne1 and add a piece of anchovy butter1 the size of a walnut2 or1 if any red spawn in the lobster1 mix it with butter1 as in the last1 and add it1 with the juice of half a lemon1 just before serving4 ,an anchovy pounded with the lobster-shells would be an improvement1 and part of the flesh of the lobster might be served in the sauce4 #bgc4 ,lobster ,sauce la ,crme4--,cut a small lobster into slices the size of half-crown pieces1 which put into a stewpan2 pound the soft and white parts1 with an ounce of butter1 and rub it through a sieve2 pour ten spoonfuls of melted butter1 and two of cream1 over the slices in the stewpan1 add half a blade of mace1 a saltspoonful of salt1 a quarter ditto of pepper1 and a little cayenne2 warm gently1 and when upon the point of boiling1 add the butter and two tablespoonfuls of thick cream1 shake round over the fire until quite hot1 when it is ready to serve4 #bgd4 ,lobster ,sauce simplified4--,put the slices of lobster1 as in the last1 into a stewpan1 with ten tablespoonfuls of milk1 add a little pepper1 salt1 cayenne1 two cloves1 and half a blade of mace2 set it upon the fire1 and when boiling1 add a piece of butter of the size of two walnuts1 with which you have mixed a little flour2 shake round over the fire1 and when getting rather thick1 add two spoonfuls of cream1 if handy1 and serve very hot4 #bge4 ,beyrout ,sauce4--,put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan1 with one of ,chili vinegar and one of common ditto1 a pint of melted butter1 four spoonfuls of brown gravy1 two of mushroom catsup1 and two of ,harvey sauce2 place it over the fire1 keeping it stirred until boiling1 then place it at the corner to simmer five minutes1 skim well1 then place it again over the fire1 keeping it stirred until thickish1 to adhere to the back of the spoon1 when add two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies1 and half a teaspoonful of sugar2 it is then ready to serve4 ,the above1 although a fish sauce1 may be used for meat or poultry1 by omitting the anchovy1 and adding more ,harvey sauce4 ,if no brown gravy1 add water and a little coloring4 #bgf4 ,oyster ,sauce4--,mix three ounces of butter in a stewpan1 with two ounces of flour1 then blanch and beard three dozen oysters1 put the oysters into another stewpan1 add beards and liquor to the flour and butter1 with a pint and a half of milk1 a teaspoonful of salt1 half a saltspoonful of cayenne1 two cloves1 half a blade of mace1 and six peppercorns2 place it over the fire1 keep stirring1 and boil it ten minutes1 then add a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies1 and one of ,harvey sauce1 pass it through a tammy over the oysters1 make the whole very hot without boiling1 and serve4 ,a less quantity may be made1 using less proportions4 #bgg4 ,another method4--,put a pint of white sauce into a stewpan1 with the liquor and beards of three dozen oysters 7as above71 six peppercorns1 two cloves1 and half a blade of mace2 boil it ten minutes1 then add a spoonful of essence of anchovies1 a little cayenne and salt if required2 pass it through a tammy1 or hair sieve1 over the oysters1 as in the last4 #bgh4 ,a plainer method4--,blanch three dozen of oysters1 which again put into the stewpan1 with their liquor 7after having detached the beards71 add six peppercorns and half a blade of mace2 place them over the fire1 and when beginning to simmer1 add a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 with which you have mixed sufficient flour to form a paste1 breaking it in four or five pieces2 shake the stewpan round over the fire1 and when upon the point of boiling1 and becoming thick1 add half a gill of milk1 or more if required2 season with a little cayenne1 salt1 pepper1 and a few drops of essence of anchovies2 serve very hot4 #bgi4 ,mussel ,sauce4--,proceed exactly the same as for oyster sauce1 using only the liquor of the mussels 7not the beards7 instead of the oysters1 and serving the mussels in the sauce2 about four dozen would be sufficient4 #bhj4 ,cream ,sauce4--,put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a stewpan1 with the juice of a lemon1 a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt1 a little white pepper1 and a quarter of a pound of hard fresh butter2 place the stewpan over a moderate fire1 and commence stirring with a wooden spoon 7taking it from the fire now and then when getting too hot71 until the butter has gradually melted and thickened with the eggs 7great care must be exercised1 for if it should become too hot1 the eggs would curdle and render the sauce useless72 then add half a pint of melted butter2 stir altogether over the fire1 without permitting it to boil1 pass it through a tammy into another stewpan2 when wanted1 stir it over the fire until hot4 ,this sauce may be served with any description of boiled fish4 #bha4 ,matelote ,sauce4--,for about a pound-slice of salmon make the following quantity of sauce3 peel thirty button onions1 and put half a teaspoonful of sugar in a quart-size stewpan1 place it over a sharp fire1 and when melted and getting brown1 add a piece of butter 7the size of two walnuts7 and the onions1 toss them over now and then until rather brown1 then add a glass of sherry1 let it boil1 then add half a pint of brown sauce1 and a gill of broth1 simmer at the corner of the fire until the onions are quite tender1 skim it well1 and add a few mushrooms1 if handy1 season with a little salt and sugar1 and sauce over any kind of fish where described4 ,the addition of a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies is an improvement4 ,use where directed4 #bhb4 ,matelote ,sauce simplified4--,proceed as above respecting the onions1 only add a fourth more butter1 and fry them a little browner2 then add a glass of sherry and two teaspoonfuls of flour1 which stir round gently with a small wooden spoon1 add to it about a pint of water1 stir now and then till boiling1 add three saltspoonfuls of salt1 two of sugar1 one of pepper1 and a bouquet garni1 simmer and skim1 add a few drops of coloring to give it a nice brown color2 when ready to serve1 add a good tablespoonful of anchovy essence2 it ought to adhere lightly to the back of the spoon1 but not be too thick2 sauce over or under1 as directed2 small pieces of glaze1 if handy1 put into it is an improvement1 also using broth instead of water2 oysters and mushrooms may be introduced1 also a little cayenne pepper4 ,this sauce must be very savory4 #bhc4 ,lobster ,butter4--,procure half a lobster1 quite full of spawn1 which take out and pound well in a mortar2 then add six ounces of fresh butter1 mix well together1 then rub it through a hair sieve1 and put it in a cold place until wanted4 ,the flesh can be used for any other dish4 #bhd4 ,anchovy ,butter4--,take the bones from six anchovies1 wash the fillets1 and dry them upon a cloth1 pound them well in a mortar1 add six ounces of fresh butter1 mix well together1 and proceed as in the last4 #bhe4 ,matre d',htel ,butter4--,put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter upon a plate1 with one good tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 the juice of two lemons1 half a teaspoonful of salt1 and a quarter that quantity of white pepper2 mix all well together1 and put in a cool place till required4 #bhf4 ,ravigote ,butter4--,proceed as in the last1 but instead of parsley1 use one spoonful of chopped tarragon1 and one of chervil1 and add half a spoonful of ,chili vinegar4 ,,removes4 ,these are dishes which remove the fish and soup1 served upon large dishes1 and placed at the top and bottom of the table2 great care should be evinced in cooking them1 as they are the pice de rsistance of the dinner4 ,i must also observe that a few of the receipts appear a little complicated1 but which will not prove to be the case if tried once or twice4 ,in the ,entres will be found how the remains of them may be dressed4 ,since the science of analytical chemistry has become so perfect1 and has shown us the elements of which every substance and liquid is composed1 and that1 in order to continue them in a state of action1 and prevent decomposition1 it is necessary to repair the loss which they are every moment undergoing1 even from man1 through every living thing1 down to earth and water4 ,but as ,i am not going to write you a lecture on chemistry1 which will be so much more easy to read in ,liebig1 in order for you to choose your meat and viands with economy in regard to actual nourishment1 it is necessary ,i should tell you1 that1 from infancy to old age1 the human race must be continually imbibing elements of formation or reparation1 even from the lime in the mother's milk1 which forms the bones1 to the osmazome extracted from animal matters1 which creates a more lively circulation of the blood when it becomes sluggish and dull in old age4 ,each period1 occupation1 and station in life requires different substances of reparation1 with which we ought to make ourselves intimately acquainted4 ,amongst the first1 and that most generally in use with man1 is the ox1 the principal nourishment of which consists in the osmazome1 which is that liquid part of the meat that is extracted by water at blood-heat4 ,it is this which is the foundation and flavor of all soups1 which gives the flavor to all meats1 and which1 on becoming candied by heat1 forms the crust of roast meats4 ,the osmazome is found principally in all adult animals having a dark flesh1 and to a very small extent in those having a white flesh2 or even in the white flesh of fowls1 but in their back and legs1 in which parts lies their principal flavor4 ,the bones of the ox contain gelatine and phosphate of lime4 ,the gelatine is also found in the muscles and other cartilaginous parts of the animal2 it is extracted by boiling water1 and coagulates at the ordinary temperature of the atmosphere2 it is the foundation of all jellies1 blancmanges1 and other similar preparations4 ,the albumen is also found in the flesh1 and congeals as soon as the heat rises beyond that of the blood2 it is this which is the scum on the pot when the meat is boiling4 ,,beef4--,all oxen should fast from twenty-four to forty-eight hours before being killed2 when killed and skinned1 they are opened and the inside cleaned2 they are then hung up1 and ought to be exposed to a draught until cold1 and then divided down the back into two parts1 leaving the head whole2 these sides are then divided into two1 called the fore and hind-quarters3 the fore-quarter contains the shin1 the clod and stickings1 leg of mutton piece1 chuck1 middle rib1 fore rib2 the hind-quarter consists of the rump1 sirloin1 thin and thick flank1 the veiny-piece1 aitch-bone1 buttock or round1 and leg and foot2 the head contains the tongue1 palate1 and brains2 the entrails consist of the sweetbread1 kidneys1 skirts1 and the double roll and reed tripe4 ,when the meat is cut up1 the following kernels are taken out3 those in the neck1 where the shoulder clod is removed2 two from the round1 the pope's eye1 and one from the flap2 one in the thick flap in the middle of the flank1 and another between the rump and aitch-bone3 these must be removed to preserve the beef1 particularly in hot weather4 ,the flavor and quality of the meat depend on the country from whence it comes1 and the nature of its food4#d ,as a general rule1 the flesh ought to be of a dark red color1 smooth1 open-grained1 with fat rather white than yellow running in thin streaks through the flesh4 ,ox-beef is the largest and richest1 but heifer is better1 if well-fed4 ,it should be hung for two days previous to using1 in a cool place1 free from draught2 it will keep good from three to six days1 according to the weather4 #bhg4 ,sirloin of ,beef should never be less than three of the short ribs1 and will weigh more or less according to the size of the ox from which they are taken2 that from a small1 well-fed heifer ,i consider the best1 and will weigh about twelve pounds1 and take about two hours to roast1 depending much on the fire4 ,having spitted or hung the joint1 cover it with buttered paper1 and place it about eighteen inches from the fire2 about one hour after it has been down1 remove the paper and place the joint nearer the fire1 and put half a pint of water1 with a little salt1 in the dripping-pan2 about a quarter of an hour before removing from the fire1 dredge it with flour and salt from the dredging-box2 when taken from the fire1 empty the contents of the dripping-pan into a basin1 from which remove the fat2 pour the gravy in the dish1 and then place the joint on it2 serve some scraped horse-radish separate4 ,a ,yorkshire pudding is very excellent when cooked under this joint4 #bhh4 ,ribs of ,beef4--,this piece should consist of at least three ribs2 the bones are generally sawn through about three inches from the top2 these should be removed1 leaving the flap1 which fold under and fix with wooden skewers4 ,this1 in roasting1 should be prepared and dredged as the sirloin4 ,a drop of coloring gives the gravy an inviting appearance4 #bhi4 ,ribs of ,beef braised4--,take four ribs1 not too fat nor too thick1 remove the chine-bone neatly1 and four inches of the tips of the rib-bones1 run with a larding-needle several pieces of fat bacon through the thick part1 trim over the flap and tie it well round1 put it into the braising-pan2 put a quarter of a pound of butter1 one teaspoonful of pepper1 and six teaspoonfuls of salt into the pan1 cover it over1 and place it on a slow fire for thirty minutes1 stirring it now and then1 then add two quarts of water2 at the expiration of one hour and a half1 add eighty small button onions and sixty small young carrots1 or pieces of large ones cut in the shape1 which place around the meat2 a bouquet of ten sprigs of parsley1 three bay-leaves1 and four sprigs of thyme tied together2 half an hour after1 add sixty round pieces of turnip2 then place some live coals on the lid1 and let it stew gently for one hour and a half longer1 being altogether about four hours4 ,take out the meat1 remove the string1 and trim it4 ,skim off the fat from the liquor in the pan1 remove the bouquet1 c41 add a few pieces of butter in which have been mixed a tablespoonful of flour and a teaspoonful of sugar1 two of browning1 stir gently with a wooden spoon1 and1 when just on the boil1 dress round the meat1 and serve4 ,in case it has reduced too much1 add water4 ,the foregoing receipt may appear rather complicated1 and may perhaps frighten you1 and prevent you trying it2 but ,i assure you1 if you once try it1 you will find it so good as to repeat it1 particularly as many other receipts will be referred to this one4 ,the vegetables and meat cold1 are excellent4 #bij4 ,stewed ,rump of ,beef4--,this is a very excellent and useful joint to be continually kept in a country-house1 where you may be some distance from a butcher's1 as1 when hung up in a cool larder1 it keeps good for a considerable time1 and you never feel at a loss should some friends call unawares3 after a third of it has been removed for steaks1 pies1 or puddings1 the remainder makes an excellent joint1 roasted or braised like the ribs1 or stewed as follows3 ,cut it away from the bone1 cut about twenty long pieces of fat bacon1 which run through the flesh in a slanting direction2 then chop up the bone1 place it at the bottom of a large stewpan1 with six cloves1 three onions1 one carrot1 a turnip1 and a head of celery2 then lay in the rump 7previously tying it up with string71 which just cover with water1 add a tablespoonful of salt and two burnt onions 7if handy71 place upon the fire1 and1 when boiling1 stand it at the corner2 let it simmer nearly four hours1 keeping it skimmed2 when done1 pass part of the stock it was cooked in 7keeping the beef hot in the remainder7 through a hair sieve into a basin2 in another stewpan have ready a quarter of a pound of butter1 melt it over the fire1 add six ounces of flour1 mix well together1 stirring over the fire until becoming a little brownish2 take off1 and when nearly cold add two quarts of the stock1 stir it over the fire until it boils2 then have four carrots1 four turnips 7cut into small pieces with cutters71 and forty button onions peeled1 put them into the sauce1 when again boiling draw it to the corner1 where let simmer until tender1 keeping it skimmed2 add a little powdered sugar and a bunch of parsley3 if it should become too thick1 add a little more of the stock2 dress the beef upon a dish1 sauce round and serve4 ,brown sauce may be used1 and the gravy will make excellent soup4 #bia4 ,salt ,round of ,beef4--,this magnificent joint is1 in general1 too large for small families1 but occasionally it may be used2 the following is1 therefore1 the best method of cooking it3 having folded the fat round it1 and fastened it with skewers1 tie round it1 not too tight1 some wide tape and a thin cloth1 place it in a large stock-pot with plenty of cold water1 set it upon a good fire1 and when beginning to boil1 draw it to the corner1 where let it simmer until done2 five hours will be enough for a large one of thirty to thirty-five pounds2 when done1 remove the cloth and tape1 and dish it up1 previously cutting a slice two inches thick from the top1 pouring a pint of the hot liquor over it when serving4 ,to serve it cold1 ,m4 ,soyer1 in his ,regenerator1 thus describes it3 ,after receiving the above useful lesson1 and being desirous of improving my profession in all its branches1 ,i remembered that1 amongst the number of joints boiled to serve cold for large civic1 agricultural1 or benevolent anniversary dinners1 the round of beef was the most prominent1 and having seen it standing in dishes to get cold1 with the dish filled with the gravy that runs from it1 particularly if a little over-done1 caused me to hit upon the following expedient to prevent the meat losing so much of its succulence4 ,fill two large tubs with cold water1 into which throw a few pounds of rough ice1 and when the round is done1 throw it1 cloth and all1 into one of the tubs of ice-water2 let remain one minute1 when take out and put it into the other tub2 fill the first tub again with water1 and continue the above process for about twenty minutes2 then set it upon a dish1 leaving the cloth on until the next day1 or until quite cold2 when opened1 the fat will be as white as possible1 besides having saved the whole of the gravy4 ,if no ice1 spring water will answer the same purpose1 but will require to be more frequently changed2 the same mode would be equally successful with the aitch-bone4 #bib4 ,half-,round of ,beef 7,silver-side7 should be put into cold water1 and let it come to a boil2 simmer for two hours and a half1 and serve the same as a round4 #bic4 ,aitch-bone of ,beef 7or1 as ,i think it ought to be called1 ,edge-bone74--,this is a very nice joint for a small family1 but not so economical as is generally supposed2 it should be pickled carefully1 and cooked in the same way as the round2 one weighing ten pounds will take two hours and a half2 it should be trimmed on the top1 and served with some of the liquor under it4 ,it is very good when fresh and braised like the ribs4 #bid4 ,salt ,brisket of ,beef4--,this is by no means an economical joint1 as it loses considerably in cooking2 it requires a long time to boil2 should it be required as a large cold joint1 the following is the best plan3 procure a nice brisket with as little fat as possible1 detach the whole of the bones from it1 make a pickle 7see ,receipt71 place it in it1 previously rubbing it well with two cloves of garlic1 leave it in the pickle from seven to nine days1 rubbing and turning it every day2 when ready to cook1 cut it into two parts 7one about two inches longer than the other71 tie them together1 and afterwards in a clean cloth1 simmer it for about six or seven hours in a large stock-pot full of water2 when done1 take it out and let it drain1 have ready a large dish-cover1 place it upon a trivet1 remove the cloth and string from the meat1 and place it in the cover2 have ready a piece of board to fit inside the cover1 place it on the meat with a half-hundred weight on the top1 and let it remain in a cold place until the next day1 when take it out1 trim it1 garnish it nicely1 and serve4 ,this will keep good a considerable time1 and is excellent for breakfast or luncheon2 besides1 it always keeps a pice de rsistance in the larder in case of accidents4 ,it is also1 when fresh1 very excellent stewed like the rump of beef1 or plain salted4 #bie4 ,hamburgh ,beef4--,the ribs are the best2 they should be put to soak in soft water for twelve hours1 and then put into cold water and boiled gradually2 a piece of three ribs will take three hours2 if intended to be served hot1 the outside should be cut off1 and the joint nicely trimmed and served up with the following garniture round it3 take four handfuls of brown kale1 well washed1 put a saucepan on the fire1 with a gallon of water1 and let it well boil2 then add two tablespoonfuls of salt and half a saltspoonful of carbonate of soda1 put the kale in1 let it boil for ten minutes1 drain it and squeeze all the water from it1 put it on a chopping-board and chop it fine1 then put it into a stewpan1 with two ounces of butter1 half a teaspoonful of pepper1 one teaspoonful of salt1 a little nutmeg1 half a teaspoonful of sugar1 and twenty roasted chestnuts cut in half1 put it on the fire and keep stirring it for five minutes3 if too dry1 add a little milk or gravy1 and place it on the side of the fire until wanted4 #bif4 ,to boil a pickled ,ox ,tongue4--,put the tongue into a large stewpan containing two gallons of cold water1 which set upon the fire until boiling1 when draw it to the corner to simmer for three hours1 if a tongue weighing about six pounds2 but the better way to ascertain when done1 is to try it with a trussing-needle1 or the prongs of a fork1 in the thickest part2 if tender it is done1 but if hard it must boil rather longer4 ,a dried tongue should be soaked twenty-four hours previously to boiling2 when done1 skin it and trim the root1 c41 and use where directed4 #big4 ,to cook a fresh ,ox ,tongue4--,put a tongue in lukewarm water for twelve hours to disgorge1 then trim the root and scrape the tongue quite clean2 have ready twenty pieces of fat bacon two inches long and half an inch square1 which introduce with a larding pin into the most fleshy part in a slanting direction2 then rub the tongue all over with salt1 and run a long iron skewer through it1 which tie upon1 surround the tongue with vegetables1 the same as directed for turkeys roasted and braised1 and roast for two hours before a good fire2 twenty minutes before it is done take away the paper and vegetables1 to give a nice brown color2 when done trim a little1 to keep it steady in the dish1 and garnish with any kind of stewed vegetables1 or cut it in halves lengthwise to form a heart1 and sauce over with piquante1 tomatos1 or any other sharp sauces found in their series4 ,if no convenience for roasting1 put into a stewpan a piece of leg of beef 7cut small7 weighing two pounds1 with two onions1 one carrot1 two blades of mace1 a little thyme and bay-leaf1 and a quarter of a pound of butter1 saut the whole twenty minutes1 keeping it stirred over a moderate fire1 then put in the tongue 7previously prepared7 and two ounces of salt1 cover with water1 and let boil gently four hours1 skim and serve4 ,the stock would be excellent for soup or brown sauce of any kind4 ,the remains could be served in either of the methods directed for the remainder of pickled tongue4 #bih4 ,rump ,steak broiled4--,procure a steak cut nice and even1 of about half an inch in thickness 7if well cut it will not require beating71 which lay upon a gridiron over a sharp fire2 have a good teaspoonful of salt1 and half that quantity of pepper mixed together upon a plate1 half of which sprinkle upon the side of the steak uppermost1 after it has been upon the fire a couple of minutes1 when turn1 and sprinkle the remainder of the seasoning upon the other side2 it will take about ten minutes to cook it to perfection1 turning it occasionally1 and serve upon a very hot dish1 with a little scraped horseradish round4 ,if properly done1 it ought to be full of gravy1 but a great deal depends upon the fire1 which1 if bad1 causes the gravy to ooze from the meat and lie upon the top1 which you lose in turning the steak over4 ,a rump steak may also be served broiled as above1 with a little matre d'htel1 or anchovy butter1 rubbed1 over as soon as done1 and potatoes cut the size of half crown or shilling pieces1 and fried crisp in hot fat2 dress round4 ,or a steak may be served1 with a few water-cresses1 well washed1 and dried upon a plate sprinkled with a little pepper1 salt1 and vinegar1 and garnished round2 a little oil might also be added4 ,veal of about two to three months old is the best2 the flesh ought to be white1 approaching to pink1 and the fat firm2 it is cut up the same as mutton1 except that1 in the hind-quarter1 the loin is cut straight1 leaving the aitch-bone on it1 which may be either dressed on the loin or separate4 ,the fore-quarter consists of the shoulder1 neck1 and breast4 ,the hind-quarter1 the knuckle1 leg1 fillet1 and the loin4 ,the head and pluck consists of the heart1 liver1 nut1 skirts1 melt1 and the heart1 throat1 and sweetbread4 ,the bull-calf is the best1 the flesh is firmer grained or redder1 and the fat more curdled than the cow-calf1 which latter is in general preferred1 being more delicate and better adapted for made dishes1 as having the udder4 ,nothing can be worse than veal if not fresh2 it should never hang more than two days in summer and four in winter4 ,to be in full perfection1 the kidneys ought to be covered with fat1 and the veins in the shoulder bright red or blue4 ,it is best from ,may to ,september1 although it may be had good all the year4 ,the head1 when fresh1 should have the eyes plump and lively2 if stale1 they are sunk and wrinkled4 #bii4 ,fillet of ,veal4--,choose it of the best quality4 ,procure a leg1 saw off the knuckle1 take out the bone in the centre of the fillet1 and fill up the cavity with some stuffing made as directed 7see ,receipt71 fold the udder and flap round1 which fix with three skewers2 place half a sheet of buttered foolscap paper top and bottom1 which tie over and over with plenty of string1 run a spit through1 fixing the fillet with a holdfast2 set down to roast1 placing it rather close to the fire ten minutes1 rub well over with butter1 then place it at least two feet and a half from the fire1 to roast very slowly1 giving it a fine gold color2 a fillet weighing sixteen pounds would require three hours roasting1 when done take it up1 detach all the string and paper1 trim the top and set it upon your dish2 have a pint of melted butter in a stewpan upon the fire1 to which1 when boiling1 add four spoonfuls of ,harvey sauce1 and two of mushroom catsup1 mix well1 and pour round the fillet2 have also boiled nicely an ox-tongue1 which skin and trim1 dress upon a dish surrounded with greens or cabbage nicely boiled1 and serve as an accompaniment to the fillet4 #cjj4 ,loin of ,veal4--,one with plenty of fat and a good kidney1 from which the chump and the rib-bone at the other end has been removed2 fasten the flap over the kidney with a skewer1 run a spit through lengthwise1 commencing at the thick end1 and fixing it with a holdfast1 cover it with buttered paper2 one of fourteen pounds will take about two hours and a half to roast4 ,serve with melted butter poured over4 #cja4 ,chump of ,veal can be either roasted or boiled2 one about four pounds will take one hour to roast1 and one hour and a quarter to boil2 roasted1 serve like the loin3 boiled1 serve with either sauces1 ,nos4 #abb1 #aed1 #afj4 #cjb4 ,breast of ,veal plain roasted4--,paper the joint1 and roast for about one hour1 and serve with gravy and melted butter2 it may be roasted with the sweetbread skewered to it4 ,by taking the tendons off1 stew them for entres4 #cjc4 ,shoulder of ,veal4--,one weighing fourteen pounds will take about two hours and a half to three hours to roast or braise2 if roasted1 the same sauce as for the loin 7,no4 #cjj71 and braise 7,no4 #caj74 #cjd4 ,neck of ,veal4--,procure about eight pounds of a nice white neck of veal1 containing six or seven chops2 saw off under part of the chine-bone1 so as to give it a nice square appearance1 lard it thus3 take about twelve pieces of fat bacon1 two inches long and a quarter of an inch square1 put the larding-needle through the flesh of the veal about one inch and a half1 then put one third of the length of the piece of bacon in it1 pull the needle out1 and it will leave the bacon in the meat1 showing a quarter of an inch of the bacon outside4 ,then braise as ribs of beef4 ,two hours will suffice4 #cje4 ,neck of ,veal with ,peas4--,proceed as in the former receipt1 with the exception of leaving out the vegetables1 and adding1 half an hour previous to the meat being done1 one quart of peas1 twelve button onions1 and a little more sugar2 remove the fat1 and serve as before4 #cjf4 ,neck of ,veal with ,haricots4--,proceed as before1 substituting the haricots for the peas1 which must have been boiled in plenty of water for three or four hours previously4 7,see ,receipt for ,haricots47 #cjg4 ,neck of ,veal with ,new ,potatoes4--,as before1 using new potatoes in place of the peas4 ,any other vegetable1 as ,french beans1 broad beans1 c4 may be served with it in the same way4 #cjh4 ,necks of ,veal can be larded or plain roasted1 or braised in plain gravy as before1 and served with either sauces1 ,nos4 #aej1 #ace1 #acg1 #afe4 #cji4 ,knuckle of ,veal is a very favorite dish of mine3 ,i procure two of them1 which ,i saw into three pieces each1 and put into a stewpan1 with a piece of streaked bacon two pounds in weight1 four onions1 a carrot1 two turnips1 and six peppercorns1 place over the fire1 and when boiling add a little salt1 skim well1 and place at the corner to simmer gently for two hours1 take up1 dress them in your dish surrounded with the vegetables and bacon1 and serve with parsley and butter over2 very good soup may be made from the stock it was boiled in if required1 or if not1 into glaze1 which put by until wanted4 #caj4 ,loin of ,veal braised4--,this joint generally weighs from twelve to fourteen pounds when off a good calf2 have the rib-bones carefully divided with a saw so as not to hurt the fillet1 prepare the braising-pan1 and proceed as in receipt 7,no4 #bhi72 with the addition of one pint more water1 but take care not to cover the meat1 which might happen if your stewpan was small1 which otherwise be boiling instead of braising2 it will take about three hours3 be careful about the fat1 as this joint produces a great deal2 taste the sauce before serving1 in case more seasoning is required1 which might be the case1 depending on the nature of the veal4 ,a good cook should taste all sauces before serving4 #caa4 ,breast of ,veal stuffed and stewed4--,take about eight pounds of the breast of veal1 put your knife about half an inch under the skin1 and open it about three parts of its width all the way down1 then prepare some veal stuffing1 and lay it in the opening you have made about one inch in thickness1 sew it up1 and proceed as receipt for shoulder4 ,should half the size of either the above dishes be required1 use but half the vegetables in proportion1 and stew half an hour less4 ,the ,chump1 ,small ,shoulder1 or pieces of the fillet may be dressed in the same way1 but must be larded1 like the neck4 ,all the above joints may be stewed in the same way1 with less vegetables1 and served with sauces 7,nos4 #aca1 #ace72 the gravy in which they are stewed will always be useful in the kitchen1 or may be reduced and served with the joint4 #cab4 ,shoulder of ,veal stuffed and stewed4--,this is a very awkward joint to carve to advantage1 and equally so to cook2 by the following plan1 it goes further than any other way4 ,take the joint and lay it with the skin-side downwards1 with a sharp thin knife carefully detach the meat from the blade-bone1 then hold the shoulder edgewise and detach the meat from the other side of the bone1 being careful not to make a hole in the skin2 then cut the bone from the knuckle and take it out2 you may at first be rather awkward about it1 but after once or twice trying1 it will become easy2 you may also take out the other bone1 but ,i prefer it in1 as it keeps the shape better3 then lard the lean part like the neck in 7,no4 #cjd72 mix some salt and a little mixed spice together1 with which rub the meat from whence the bone has been cut1 stuff with veal stuffing1 or sausage-meat1 or suet pudding2 braise1 garnish1 and serve as 7,no4 #bhi74 ,this being the toughest part of the veal1 it should be tried before taking up1 to see if it is properly done1 by thrusting a larding-needle in it2 if it goes in easily it is done4 ,this joint is excellent cold1 and should be carved in thin slices crosswise4 #cac4 ,calf's ,head4--,choose one thick and fat1 but not too large2 soak for ten minutes in lukewarm water1 then well powder with rosin1 have plenty of scalding water ready1 dip in the head1 holding it by the ear1 scrape the hair off with the back of a knife1 which will come off easily if properly scraped1 without scratching the cheek2 when perfectly clean1 take the eyes out1 saw it in two lengthwise through the skull1 without spoiling the brain1 which take carefully out1 and put to disgorge for a few hours in lukewarm water2 pull the tongue out1 break the jawbone1 and remove the part which contains the teeth1 put the head into plenty of water to disgorge for one hour2 make the following stock1 and boil for about two hours and a half1 and it will be ready to serve4 ,the stock is made by putting into a braising-pan two carrots1 three onions1 a quarter of a pound of butter1 six cloves1 a bouquet of parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaves1 set it on the fire for about twenty minutes1 keep stirring it round1 then add a pint of water1 and when warm mix a quarter of a pound of flour1 add a gallon of water1 one lemon in slices1 and a quarter of a pound of salt1 then lay the head in2 take care it is well covered1 or the part exposed will turn dark3 simmer gently till tender4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,xii ,,my ,,dear ,,eloise1--,do not make any mistakes in the way you describe the above receipts1 which might be made very ridiculous if wrongly explained4 ,for example3 ,i once had an old ,french ,cookery ,book in my hand1 which had the #aeth edition stamped on its old brown leather cheek1 in which a receipt of ,tte de ,veau la poulette1 that is1 a calf's head1 with white sauce1 in which small onions and mushrooms are introduced1 reads as follows--but1 before describing it1 allow me five minutes to indulge in a hearty laugh at the absurd manner in which it is explained3 it reads thus3 ,first choose your head as thick and fat as you can1 then plunge it in two gallons of water1 which must be nearly boiling in a pan on the fire2 let your head remain about ten minutes1 then take it out by the ears1 and1 after remaining a short time1 scrape your hair off with the back of a knife without injuring your cheek1 and pull your eyes out2 break your jawbone and saw your head in two without smashing your brains1 which take out carefully2 set it in cold water1 to get clean and white2 then pull out your tongue1 scrape and dry it1 having previously boiled it with your head1 which1 after two hours' ebullition1 will feel as soft as possible1 when see that your head is in the centre of the dish2 your tongue divided in two and placed on each side of it3 sharp sauce1 according to ,no4-- is allowed to be served with either head or tongue4 ,i assure you1 dear1 although ,i do not profess to be a first-rate scholar in that fashionable language--,french1 that ,i believe this to be as near as possible the true translation of the original4 ,then follows calves' feet1 which is nearly as absurd as the former3 ,pied de ,veau an naturel1 ,calves ,feet1 the natural way4--,choose your fine feet in the rough state1 and1 as with your head1 place a pan of water on the fire2 when hot1 but not too much so1 put your feet in the water for about ten minutes1 try if you can easily clean them as your head with a knife1 if not1 add a spoonful of salt in the water1 and let them remain a few minutes longer2 then scrape like your head2 when well cleaned wipe them dry1 and they are ready for dressing1 which may be done in almost twenty different ways4 7,see the series ',how to cook ,pigs' ,feet4'7 ,when your feet are tender1 set them on a dish1 take out the big bone1 surround them with sausage-meat2 wrap them up in caul1 and form a heart with them2 then place your feet on a gridiron1 let them gently broil1 and1 when done1 eat them for breakfast or luncheon4 7,after which a gentle walk might give you an appetite for dinner47 ,calf's ,head 7,no4 #cac7 may be dressed thus3--,half of the head will make a good dish for a remove2 lay it in the dish very hot1 having previously drained it well2 have ready about a pint of ,hollandaise or cream sauce1 ,no4 #bhj1 pour it over and serve4 ,it may be surrounded with a dozen new potatoes1 if in season1 or some quenelles1 or quarters of hard-boiled eggs2 a little chopped parsley thrown on the head when the sauce is over it1 makes it look very inviting4 ,it can also be served la poulette1 by putting a pint of white sauce in a stewpan2 you have peeled and cooked about fifty button onions in white broth1 to which you have added a little sugar and butter1 and a few mushrooms2 add the broth1 onions1 and sauce together1 and when on the point of boiling1 add a liaison of two yolks of eggs and the juice of a lemon2 stir it well round2 it ought to be the thickness of cream sauce2 pour over the head and serve4 ,it can also be egged and bread-crumbed1 and placed in the cream for twenty minutes to get a nice brown color1 and may be served with sauces1 ,nos4 #aej1 #afe4 ,,mutton4--,the sheep1 when killed1 is generally divided into two1 by cutting across about two ribs below the shoulder2 these are called the fore and hind-quarters3 the former contains the head1 neck1 breast1 and shoulder2 the latter1 the leg and loin2 or the two loins together1 the saddle or chine2 or the leg and four ribs of the loin1 the haunch4 ,the entrails are called the pluck1 which are the liver1 lights1 heart1 sweetbread1 and melt4 ,when cut up1 the kernel at the tail should be removed1 and that in the fat in the thick part of the leg1 and the pipe that runs along the bone of the chine4 ,the flavor depends on the breed and pasture2 that is best which has a dark-colored flesh1 of a fine grain1 well-mixed with fat1 which must be firm and white4 ,wether mutton is the best2 the meat of ewe mutton is of a paler color1 and the fat yellow and spongy4 ,to keep a loin1 saddle1 or haunch1 the kidney-fat should be removed1 and the place rubbed with a little salt4 ,mutton should never be cooked unless it has hung forty-eight hours after it is killed2 and it can be kept for twenty-one days1 and sometimes longer in a severe winter4 #cad4 ,haunch of ,mutton4--,saw or break three inches from the knuckle-bone1 remove all skin from the loin1 put it on a spit1 commencing at the knuckle1 and bringing it out at the flap1 avoiding the fillet of the loin2 then cover it with three sheets of buttered paper1 place it about eighteen inches from the fire1 if a large one it will take two hours and a half2 half an hour before being done1 remove the paper1 baste it with a little butter1 and dredge it slightly2 when done1 dish it up with a frill round the knuckle1 and pour a pint of hot gravy over4 ,in summer time1 ,french beans should be served with it1 but always mashed potatoes4 #cae4 ,saddle of ,mutton4--,the same rule in regard to choice appiles to this as to the haunch4 ,take off the skin1 run a lark-spit through the spinal marrow-bone1 which affix to a larger one with a holdfast at one end and string at the other2 then tie the skin over the back1 and place it down to roast2 it will not take so long a time to roast in proportion as another joint1 one about ten pounds will take about one hour and twenty minutes2 remove the paper ten minutes before taking it from the fire1 dredge to give it a nice color1 and make gravy as for beef1 ,no4 #bhg1 or serve with gravy1 ,no4 #agg4 #caf4 ,saddle of ,mutton1 la ,polonaise4--,this is my economical dish1 par excellence1 and very much it is liked every time ,i use it4 ,take the remains of a saddle of mutton1 of the previous day1 cut out all the meat close to the bone1 leaving about one inch wide on the outside1 cut it with a portion of the fat into small dice2 then put a spoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan1 with a little butter2 fry one minute1 add the meat1 with a tablespoonful of flour1 season rather high with salt1 pepper1 and a little grated nutmeg2 stir round1 and moisten with a gill or a little more of broth1 add a bay-leaf1 put it on the stove for ten minutes1 add two yolks of eggs1 stir till rather thick1 make about two pounds of mashed potatoes firm enough to roll1 put the saddle-bone in the middle of the dish1 and with the potatoes form an edging round the saddle1 so as to give the shape of one1 leaving the middle empty1 fill it with your mince meat1 which ought to be enough to do so2 if you should not have enough with the remains of the saddle1 the remains of any other joint of mutton may be used2 egg all over1 sprinkle bread-crumbs around1 put in rather a hot oven1 to get a nice yellow color1 poach six eggs1 and place on the top1 and serve brown gravy round2 white or brown sauce1 if handy1 is an improvement4 ,you may easily fancy the economy of this well-looking and good dish2 the remains of a leg1 shoulder1 loin1 neck of mutton and lamb may be dressed the same way1 keeping their shape of course4 #cag4 ,roast ,leg of ,mutton4--,choose the same as the haunch4 ,one about eight pounds weight will take about one hour and a half to roast3 run the spit in at the knuckle1 and bring it out at the thigh-bone2 roast it some little distance from the fire at first1 bringing it nearer as it gets done2 baste it with a little butter whilst roasting1 or cover it with a sheet of well-buttered paper1 which remove just before it is quite cooked4 ,the leg of doe mutton is the best for roasting2 should it be ewe1 and intended for roasting1 ,i proceed thus two or three days before ,i want it4 ,i make a small incision close to the knuckle1 pushing a wooden skewer close down to the leg-bone as far as it will go2 ,i then take one tablespoonful of port wine1 if none handy ,i use catsup1 and a teaspoonful of either treacle1 apple or currant jelly1 and mix them together2 ,i then remove the skewer1 and run the mixture in it1 closing the hole with two cloves of garlic4 ,this joint ,i prefer to dangle1 rather than put on the spit4 #cah4 ,boiled ,leg of ,mutton4--,this ,i prefer of the ,southdown breed1 and ewe is equally as good as doe4 ,cut the end of the knuckle from the leg1 put it into an oval pan1 in which there is sufficient water to cover it1 throw in about one ounce of salt1 place it upon a sharp fire until it is on the point of boiling1 then remove to the side1 and in five minutes remove the scum1 and then let it simmer gently2 if the turnips are to be boiled with it1 peel and slice them1 and put them into the pan half an hour before the mutton is done2 it must be again put on the fire for a few minutes1 as the turnips have stopped the boiling2 dress it upon a dish with the turnips round it1 or mash separate1 and with caper or gherkin sauce3 the broth may be reduced for soup4 #cai4 ,leg of ,mutton la ,bretonne4--,choose one about six pounds weight1 peel four cloves of garlic1 make an incision with the point of a knife in four different parts around the knuckle1 and place the garlic in it1 hang it up for a day or two1 and then roast it for one hour and a half4 ,at the same time you have procured a quart of small dry ,french haricots1 which after well washing put into a saucepan with half a gallon of water1 add about half an ounce of salt1 the same of butter1 set them on the side of the fire to simmer for about three hours or till tender1 when pour the liquor off into a basin1 and keep the haricots hot2 peel and cut two large onions into thin slices1 put some of the fat of the dripping-pan into a frying-pan1 put in the onions1 and fry a light brown1 add them to the haricots with the fat and gravy the mutton has produced in roasting1 season with salt and pepper1 toss them a little1 and serve very hot on a large dish1 put the leg on it1 with a frill of paper on the knuckle4 ,in case the leg is very fat do not add all of it to the haricots4 ,this if well carved is an excellent dish for eight or nine persons2 it is a dish very much esteemed in ,france1 and is considered cheap food from the nourishment afforded by the haricots1 which can be purchased at sixpence per quart4 ,shoulder and loin may be dressed in the same way4 #cbj4 ,shoulder of ,mutton is best if well hung2 the spit should be run in at the flap and brought out at the knuckle2 this should not be basted in roasting1 but merely rubbed with a little butter2 it is served occasionally with sauces1 ,no4 #aeh4 ,this is sometimes boiled with onion sauce2 or1 as it is called1 smothered in onions4 ,it is also good by having the bone extracted1 and its place filled with veal stuffing1 and then put it on a trivet1 in a baking-dish1 with sliced potatoes under1 and baked more or less in proportion to its size2 one of six pounds will take one hour and a half--or as follows3 ,put a small shoulder of mutton in a deep saut-pan or baking-dish1 season with a little pepper and salt1 cover over with thin slices of fat bacon1 then put in ten potatoes peeled and quartered1 and the same quantity of apples1 with half a pint of water1 place in a moderate oven and bake for two hours1 dress upon your dish1 with the potatoes and apples round1 skim all the fat from the gravy1 which pour over and serve2 it requires a little oil or butter over before baking4 #cba4 ,shoulder of ,mutton1 ,provincial ,fashion4--,roast a fine shoulder of mutton2 whilst roasting mince ten large onions very fine1 put them into a stewpan1 with two tablespoonfuls of salad-oil1 pass them ten minutes over a good fire1 keeping it stirred1 then add a tablespoonful of flour1 stir well in1 and a pint of milk1 season with a little pepper1 salt1 and sugar2 when the onions are quite tender and the sauce rather thick1 stir in the yolks of two eggs and take it off the fire2 when the shoulder is done1 spread the onions over the top1 egg over1 cover with bread-crumbs1 put in the oven ten minutes1 and salamander a light brown color1 dress upon your dish1 put the gravy from it in your stewpan1 with a pat of butter1 with which you have mixed a little flour1 boil up1 add a little scraped garlic1 pour round the shoulder1 which serve4 ,the shoulder may also be dressed in the housewife's method1 as directed for the leg4 ,a little browning may be added4 #cbb4 ,loin of ,mutton4--,take off the skin1 separate the joints with a chopper2 if a large size1 cut the chine-bone with a saw1 so as to allow it to be carved in smaller pieces1 run a lark-spit from one extremity to the other1 and affix it to a larger spit1 and roast it like the haunch4 ,a loin weighing six pounds will take one hour to roast4 #cbc4 ,leg of ,mutton stewed with ,vegetables4--,have a good leg1 beat it a little with a rolling-pin1 make an incision in the knuckle1 in which put two cloves of garlic1 then put it into a stewpan1 with a pound of lean bacon cut in eight pieces1 set over a moderate fire half an hour1 moving it now and then until becoming a light brown color1 season with pepper and salt1 add twenty pieces of carrots of the same size as the bacon1 fifteen middling-sized onions1 and when done add two bay-leaves1 two cloves1 and two quarts of water1 replace it upon a moderate fire1 moving round occasionally1 stew nearly three hours1 dress upon your dish with the carrots and onions dressed tastefully around1 take off as much of the fat from the gravy as possible1 take out the bay-leaves and pour the garniture round the mutton1 which serve very hot4 ,it can be braised like ,no4 #bhi4 ,a few drops of browning may be required4 #cbd4 ,neck of ,mutton4--,this is a very recherch dish1 if off a good-sized sheep1 and well hung2 it must be nicely trimmed1 sawing the bones at the tips of the ribs1 which detach from the meat1 folding the flap over2 saw off the chine-bone1 and carefully detach the remainder of the bone from the fillet2 detach the skin from the upper part1 fix the flap under with a couple of skewers1 run a flat lark-spit from end to end1 fix it to a larger one1 cover it with buttered paper1 and roast like the haunch2 if of five pounds1 nearly three-quarters of an hour to one hour4 ,it should be served very hot1 the plates and dish the same1 and not one minute before it is wanted3 serve gravy under4 #cbe4 ,boiled ,neck of ,mutton4--,take one with little fat upon it1 divide the chops1 taking care not to cut the fillet1 put it into a pan with cold water sufficient to cover it1 place in it one ounce of salt1 one onion1 and a small bunch of parsley1 boil it gently2 when done1 dish it up1 and serve it with either parsley and butter made from the liquor in which it was boiled1 caper or onion sauce1 mashed turnips separate4 ,proceed as under receipt with the broth4 #cbf4 ,sheep's ,head4--,though this may be seen in every part of ,london inhabited by the working classes1 and may be procured ready-cooked1 ,i prefer always to prepare it at home1 and very good it is4 ,i choose a fine one1 as fat as possible1 and put it into a gallon of water to disgorge for two hours2 wash it well1 saw it in two from the top1 take out the brain1 cut away part of the uncovered part of the skull1 and also the ends of the jaws1 wash it well1 put it into the stewpan1 with two onions1 one carrot1 two turnips cut in slices1 a little celery1 four cloves1 a bouquet of four sprigs of thyme1 a bay-leaf1 one ounce of salt1 a quarter of an ounce of pepper1 three quarts of water1 set on the fire2 when near boiling1 add half a teacupful of pearl or ,scotch barley2 let it simmer for three hours1 or till tender1 which try with a fork2 take out vegetables1 cut in dice1 remove bouquet1 skim off the fat1 and pour all into tureen4 ,or1 lay the head on a dish1 and serve with either onion sauce over1 parsley and butter1 or any sharp sauce2 or egg and bread-crumb it over1 put it in an oven for half an hour till getting a nice yellow color1 and serve with sharp sauce under4 ,or1 with the brain1 thus3 having boiled it for ten minutes in a little vinegar1 salt1 and water1 cut it in pieces1 warm it in parsley and butter1 season it a little1 and put it under the head and serve4 #cbg4 ,sheep's ,head and ,liver4--,boil half a sheep's liver for thirty minutes in a quart of water1 cut it into small dice1 put two ounces of butter in the stewpan1 and set it on the fire1 then add a tablespoonful of chopped onions1 cook it a few minutes1 add the liver1 season with salt1 pepper1 grated nutmeg1 a spoonful of flour1 half-pint of broth1 stir when boiling1 simmer for a few minutes1 lay on dish1 and put the head over just as it is out of the broth1 or bread-crumb it1 and put it in the oven4 ,,lamb4--,the same rules for cutting up should be observed as in the sheep4 ,the fore-quarter consists of a shoulder1 neck1 and breast together2 if cut up1 the shoulder and ribs4 ,the hind-quarter is the leg and loin4 ,the head and pluck consist of the liver1 lights1 heart1 nut and melt1 as also the fry1 which is the sweetbread1 bits and skirts1 and part of the liver4 ,the fore-quarter should be fresh1 the hind-quarter should hang1 it should be of a pale color and fat4 ,the vein in the fore-quarter ought to be bluish and firm2 if yellow or green1 it is very stale4 ,to ascertain if the hind-quarter is fresh1 pass your finger under the kidney1 and if there is a faint smell it is not fresh4 ,if there is but little flesh on the shoulder it is not fine lamb2 those that have short wool ,i have found to be the best flavored4 ,nothing differs so much in flavor and goodness as this3 much depends upon the kind of pasture on which the ewe is fed2 that which is obtained when it is the dearest has but little flavor1 and requires the addition of lemon and cayenne to make it palatable4 #cbh4 ,neck of ,lamb la ,jardinire4--,plain roast the neck1 as you would that of mutton2 dish it up with sauce1 and1 whilst it is roasting1 cut one middling-sized carrot in small dice1 the same quantity of turnip1 and thirty button onions2 wash all in cold water1 put them in a small stewpan1 with one ounce of butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar1 place on the fire till no liquid remains in the stewpan2 add to it a gill of brown sauce1 half a one of broth1 add a small bouquet of parsley and bay-leaf2 after once boiling1 set it to simmer on the corner of the stove1 skim off all the fat2 when ready1 taste if very palatable2 it must be a nice brown color1 and the sauce lightly adhere to the back of the spoon2 serve on the dish1 place the neck over3 white sauce may be used instead of brown1 only add a spoonful of liaison when ready to serve4 ,this sauce is equally good with almost any kind of meat1 game1 and poultry3 it will often be referred to1 therefore be particular in making it2 you can shape the vegetables in twenty different ways1 by using either green peas1 ,french beans1 ,brussels sprouts2 sprey-grass may be added1 when in season1 but should be boiled separately1 and added just previous to serving4 ,should you have no sauce-water cold1 a little glaze may be used2 or1 for white sauce1 use water and milk4 #cbi4 ,saddle of ,lamb1 ,russian fashion4--,roast a small saddle of lamb1 keeping it pale2 having had it covered with paper1 take ten good-sized boiled potatoes1 mash them with about two ounces of butter1 a teaspoonful of salt1 a quarter ditto of pepper1 a tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 and a little grated nutmeg2 mix all well together with a fork1 adding half a gill of milk and one egg2 when cold1 roll them into a long shape the size of plover's eggs1 egg and bread-crumb twice1 and fry light colored2 dress the saddle1 surround it with the potatoes1 make a sauce of melted butter and matre d'htel butter1 ,no4 #bhe1 put in it1 and pour it round1 and serve4 ,all joints of lamb can be dressed thus4 #ccj4 ,leg or ,shoulder of ,lamb with ,peas4--,these must be plain roasted2 when done1 serve with peas in the bottom of the dish1 prepared as ,no4 #afi4 #cca4 ,leg or ,shoulder with ,french ,beans4--,plain roast as before2 prepare beans as directed4 7,see ,vegetables47 #ccb4 ,boiled ,leg of ,lamb with ,spinach4--,procure a very small leg1 and cut the end of the knuckle-bone1 tie it up in a cloth and place it in cold water1 with two ounces of salt in it1 boil it gently according to size2 when done1 remove the cloth1 and dish it up with spinach under it1 prepared as directed4 7,see ,vegetables47 #ccc4 ,shoulder of ,lamb braised4--,take the blade bone from a shoulder of lamb1 and have ready ten long strips of fat bacon1 which season rather highly1 with pepper1 salt1 and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 place the pieces1 one after the other1 in your larding pin1 which draw quickly through the fleshy part of the shoulder1 leaving the bacon in the meat2 after having used all the bacon1 roll the meat round1 and tie it up with a piece of string2 then put it into a stewpan containing a quarter of a pound of butter over a slow fire1 stirring it occasionally until of a light golden color1 when pour in a quart of water or broth1 and add forty button onions1 and a bunch of parsley2 let simmer very slowly until the onions are quite tender1 when take up the meat1 pull off the string1 and dress it upon a dish with the onions round2 take the parsley out of the liquor1 from which carefully skim off all the fat1 and reduce it until forming a thinnish glaze1 when pour it over the meat and serve4 ,mushrooms may be added ten minutes before sending to table4 #ccd4 ,breast of ,lamb broiled4--,saw off the breast from a rib of lamb1 leaving the neck of sufficient size to roast or for cutlets2 then put two onions1 half a carrot1 and the same of turnip1 cut into thin slices1 in a stewpan with two bay-leaves1 a few sprigs of parsley and thyme1 half an ounce of salt1 and three pints of water1 lay in the breast1 which let simmer until tender1 and the bones leave with facility1 when take it from the stewpan1 pull out all the bones1 and press it between two dishes2 when cold1 season with a little salt and pepper1 egg and bread-crumb it lightly over1 and broil gently 7over a moderate fire7 of a nice yellowish color1 turning it very carefully2 when sufficiently browned upon one side1 serve with plain gravy in the dish and mint sauce separately1 or with stewed peas or any other vegetable sauce2 tomato sauce is likewise very good served with it4 #cce4 ,lamb's ,head4--,see ,sheep's ,head 7,no4 #cbd74 ,this will take half the time to cook4 #ccf4 ,lamb's ,fry4--,take about a pound and boil for ten minutes in half a gallon of water1 take it out and dry on a cloth2 have some fresh crumbs1 mix with them half a spoonful of chopped parsley1 salt1 pepper2 egg the fry lightly with a paste-brush1 dip it in the crumbs1 fry for five minutes1 serve very hot on a clean napkin in a dish1 with fried parsley over4 #ccg4 ,lamb's ,head with ,hollandaise4--,if you want it very white1 make stock as for sheep's feet1 put it to stew when done1 lay on dish with about twelve new potatoes 7boiled7 round it1 pour over some cream sauce 7,no4 #bhj71 and serve4 #cch4 ,lamb's ,head1 with ,brain or ,liver4--,blanch the brain or liver1 and mince them as for sheep's head1 introducing only the yolk of an egg2 mix with a little milk1 stir in quick1 add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 the juice of half a lemon1 lay it on the dish with the head over1 and serve4 ,,pork4--,the flesh of no other animal depends so much upon feeding as that of pork4 ,the greatest care ought to be observed in feeding it1 at least twenty-one days previous to its being killed2 it should fast for twenty-four hours before4 ,no animal is more used for nourishment1 and none more indispensable in the kitchen2 employed either fresh or salt1 all is useful1 even to its bristles and its blood2 it is the superfluous riches of the farmer1 and helps to pay the rent of the cottager4 ,it is cut up the same as the ox4 ,the fore-quarter is the fore-loin and spring2 if it is a large pig1 the sparerib may be cut off4 ,the hind-quarter is the leg and loin4 ,there is also the head and haslet 7which is the liver1 kidney1 craw1 and skirts71 and also chitterlings1 which are cleansed for sausages and black puddings4 ,for boiling or roasting it should never be older than six months1 and the leg must not weigh more than from six to seven pounds4 ,the short-legged1 thick-necked1 and small-headed pigs are the best breed1 a cross from the ,chinese4 ,if fresh and young1 the flesh and fat should be white and firm1 smooth and dry1 and the lean break if pinched between the fingers1 or you can nip the skin with the nails2 the contrary if old and stale4 #cci4 ,leg of ,pork4--,choose the pork as described at the commencement of this series1 if a leg1 one weighing about seven pounds2 cut an incision in the knuckle near the thigh1 into which put a quantity of sage and onions1 previously passed in butter1 sew the incision up with pack-thread1 score the rind of the pork in lines across1 half an inch apart1 place upon a spit1 running it in just under the rind1 and bringing it out at the knuckle4 ,if stuffed the day previous to roasting1 it would improve its flavor2 roast 7if weighing seven pounds7 about two hours and a half1 and serve with apple sauce in a boat4 #cdj4 ,chine of ,pork4--,score it well1 stuff it thick with pork stuffing1 roast it gently1 and serve with apple sauce4 #cda4 ,sparerib of ,pork4--,when spitted1 rub some flour over the rind1 roast it before a clear fire1 not too strong1 or cover it with paper2 about ten minutes before taking it up1 throw some powdered sage over it1 and froth it up with some butter in a spoon1 and serve with gravy under4 #cdb4 ,loin or ,neck of ,pork la ,pimontaise4--,the neck or loin must be plain roasted2 you have peeled and cut four onions in dice1 put them into a stewpan1 with two ounces of butter1 stir over the fire until rather brown1 then add a tablespoonful of flour1 mix well1 add a good pint of broth1 if any1 or water1 with an ounce of glaze1 boil ten minutes1 add two tablespoonfuls of ,french mustard1 with a little pepper1 salt1 and sugar1 pour the sauce upon the dish1 and dress your joint upon it2 serve with a little apple sauce separate in a boat4 #cdc4 ,loin or ,neck of ,pork1 ,normandy fashion4--,procure a neck or loin1 put it in a common earthen dish1 having previously scored the rind1 rub over with a little oil1 place about twenty potatoes1 cut in halves or in quarters1 in the dish with the pork1 ten onions peeled1 and twenty apples1 peeled and quartered1 place in a warm oven for an hour and a half or more1 then dress it upon your dish with the apples1 onions1 and potatoes around1 and serve4 #cdd4 ,bacon and ,ham4--,bacon-pigs are cut up differently for hams1 bacon1 c41 but a poleaxe should never be used for killing them1 as it spoils the head4 ,to be good1 the fat must be firm1 with a slight red tinge1 the lean a dark red1 and stick close to the bone2 the rind thin1 if young2 if old 7should it be well fed it is sometimes better71 it will be thick4 ,for hams1 choose one short in the hock2 run the knife close under the bone1 when it comes out1 if not smeared and has a pleasant smell1 it is good4 #cde4 ,ham4--,this useful and popular dish1 which is equally a favorite in the palace and the cottage1 may be dressed in upwards of fifty different ways1 with as many different dishes1 which are described in their place4 ,they should be well soaked in water1 and boiled gently for three or four hours4 ,if to serve hot1 take the skin off1 except from the knuckle1 which cut to fancy2 trim the fat to a nice appearance1 glaze and serve1 or throw over some sifted raspings of bread mixed with a little chopped parsley4 ,serve where recommended4 #cdf4 ,bacon4--,a piece of good streaky bacon1 not too salt1 should be put into cold water and boiled for one hour and a half1 and served with broad beans1 when in season1 round it1 or any young peas4 #cdg4 ,sucking ,pig is merely plain roasted1 stuffed with veal stuffing1 but before putting it upon the spit it requires to be floured and rubbed very dry1 otherwise the skin would not eat crisp2 the usual method of serving it is to cut off the head1 and divide the body and head of the pig in halves lengthwise2 pour over some sauce made of the brains and a little brown sauce1 or of white melted butter1 nicely seasoned with salt1 pepper1 and sugar2 serve apple sauce separate in a boat1 if approved of4 #cdh4 ,hind ,quarter of ,sucking ,pig 7,yorkshire fashion74--,cut off the skin1 cover with paper1 and roast before a quick fire about three quarters of an hour2 ten minutes before being ready1 remove the paper and baste it2 serve with gravy under1 and mint sauce and salad4 #cdi4 ,salt ,pork4--,pork is salted in the same manner as described for beef1 omitting the sal-prunella1 but of course not requiring so long a time2 a leg weighing seven pounds would be well salted in a week1 as also would a hand and spring weighing about ten pounds1 and either would require two hours boiling1 putting them in a stewpan1 with cold water1 and serving with carrots and greens and pease pudding4 #cej4 ,pig's ,cheek 7a new method74--,procure a pig's cheek nicely pickled1 boil well until it feels very tender1 tie half a pint of split peas in a cloth1 put them into a stewpan of boiling water1 boil about half an hour1 take them out1 pass through a hair sieve1 put them into a stewpan1 with an ounce of butter1 a little pepper and salt1 and four eggs1 stir them over the fire until the eggs are partially set1 then spread it over the pig's cheek1 egg with a paste-brush1 sprinkle bread-crumbs over1 place in the oven ten minutes1 brown it with the salamander1 and serve4 #cea4 ,pickled ,pork 7,belly part74--,choose a nice streaky piece of about four pounds1 it will take about three quarters of an hour boiling2 serve1 garnish with greens round it4 #ceb4 ,hand of ,pork4--,choose one not too salt2 boil it for one hour4 ,serve as above4 ,,venison is cut up the same as mutton1 with the exception of the saddle1 which is seldom or never cut2 the flesh should be dark1 fine-grained and firm1 and a good coating of fat on the back4 ,it should be well hung and kept in a dry1 cold place4 ,by running a skewer in along the bone1 you will know when it is fit for eating2 examine it carefully every morning to cut out any fly-blows4 #cec4 ,haunch of ,venison4--,a good haunch of venison1 weighing from about twenty to twenty-five pounds1 will take from three to four hours roasting before a good solid fire2 trim the haunch by cutting off part of the knuckle and sawing off the chine-bone2 fold the flap over1 then envelop it in a flour and water paste rather stiff1 and an inch thick1 tie it up in strong paper1 four sheets in thickness1 place it in your cradle spit so that it will turn quite even1 place it at first very close to the fire until the paste is well crusted1 pouring a few ladlefuls of hot dripping over occasionally to prevent the paper catching fire1 then put it rather further from the fire1 which must be quite clear1 solid1 and have sufficient frontage to throw the same heat on every part of the venison2 when it has roasted the above time take it up1 remove it from the paste and paper1 run a thin skewer into the thickest part to ascertain if done2 if it resists the skewer it is not done1 and must be tied up and put down again1 but if the fire is good1 that time will sufficiently cook it2 glaze the top well1 salamander until a little brown1 put a frill upon the knuckle1 and serve very hot1 with strong gravy1 and plenty of ,french beans separate4 #ced4 ,neck of ,venison should be cut like a neck of mutton1 taking the breast off1 leaving the neck about nine inches wide2 detach the flesh from the chine-bone1 and saw it off1 leaving only the cutlet bones1 then pass a lark spit through it1 cover it with paste and paper the same as the haunch1 and fix on spit1 and roast1 if about eight pounds1 for two hours before a good fire4 ,,poultry4 ,this is the best and most delicious of the various matters with which man furnishes himself as food2 although containing but little nourishment1 it gives a delightful variety to our repasts3 from the sparrow to the turkey1 we find everywhere1 in this numerous class1 that which gives a meal equally as good for the invalid as the robust4 ,increasing every day in luxuries1 we have arrived at a point unknown even to ,lucullus2 we are not contented with the beautiful qualities which ,nature gives this species1 but1 under pretence of improving them1 we not only deprive them of their liberty by keeping them in solitude and in darkness1 but force them to eat their food1 and thus bring them to a degree of fatness which ,nature never intended4 ,even the bird which saved the capital of ,rome is treated with still greater indignity1--thrust into warm ovens and nearly baked alive to produce those beautiful and delicious livers so well known to gourmets4#e ,the best way of killing poultry is to take the bird by the neck1 placing the thumb of the right hand just at the back of the head1 closing the head in your hand1 your left hand holding the bird1 then press your thumb down hard and pull the head and neck contrariwise2 the neck will break instantaneously1 and the bird will be quite dead in a few seconds1 then hang it a short time by the legs for the blood to flow into the head1 which renders the flesh much whiter4 ,in ,france they are usually killed by cutting the throat close to the head2 both methods are good with regard to the whiteness of the flesh1 but ,i prefer the ,english method1 not being so barbarous4 ,to pluck either game or poultry have the bird upon a board with its head towards you1 and pull the feathers away from you1 which is the direction they lie in2 many persons pull out the feathers in a contrary direction1 by which means they are likely to tear the skin to pieces1 which would very much disfigure the bird for the table4 ,to draw poultry after it is well plucked1 cut a long incision at the back of the neck1 then take out the thin skin from under the outer with the crop1 cut the neck bone off close to the body of the bird1 but leave the skin a good length1 make an incision under the tail just large enough for the gizzard to pass through1 no larger2 then put your finger into the bird at the breast and detach all the intestines1 take care not to break the gall-bladder1 squeeze the body of the bird and force out the whole from the incision at the tail2 it is then ready for trussing1 the method of doing which will be given in the various ,receipts throughout this series4 ,the above method of drawing poultry is equally applicable to game4 ,,turkey4--,the flesh of this bird depends greatly upon its feeding2 it might be made much more valuable for table if proper attention was paid to it4 ,a young one should have his legs black and smooth and spurs short1 his eyes look fresh and feet limber4 ,it is singular that this bird should take its name from a country in which it was never seen2 in other countries in ,europe it is called the ,indian cock1 because1 on the first discovery of ,america by ,columbus1 it was supposed to be part of the continent of ,india1 and thus it received the name of the ,west ,indies2 and this bird1 being brought over on the first voyage1 was thus named4 ,by many it is supposed to have been brought over by the ,jesuits in ,spain and ,portugal4 ,it is familiarly called so4 ,it is also probable that they were the first who domesticated it4 ,i have seen it stated that it was known to the ,romans1 and was served at the marriage of ,charlemagne4 ,from my researches ,i rather think they confound it with the pheasant4 ,it has more flavor than any other of our domestic birds1 and is1 consequently1 held in higher estimation and enjoys a higher price4 ,do not fear these long receipts1 as each one contains several4 #cee4 ,plain ,roasted ,turkey1 with ,sausages4--,this well-known dish1 which has the joyous recollection of ,christmas attached to it1 and its well-known cognomen of 'an alderman in chains1' brings to our mind's eye the famed hospitality of this mighty city4 ,the following is my plan of cooking it4--,it must be first trussed as follows3 ,having first emptied it1 break the leg-bone close to the foot1 and draw out the sinews from the thigh2 cut off the neck close to the back1 leaving the skin long2 wipe the inside with a wet cloth1 cut the breast-bone through on each side close to the back1 and draw the legs close up2 fold a cloth up several times1 place it on the breast1 and beat it down until it lies flat2 put a skewer in the joint of the wing1 and another through the middle of the leg and body1 one through the small part of the leg and body1 close to the side-bones1 and another through the extremity of the two legs4 ,the liver and gizzard should be placed between the pinions of the wings1 and the points turned on the back4 ,when thus trussed1 singe all the hair off that may remain1 take about one pound of stuffing 7see ,receipt71 and put it under the skin at the neck1 tie the skin under1 but not too tight or it may burst in roasting1 put it on to a small-sized spit and fasten it with a holdfast1 or hang it neck downwards from a bottle-jack1 put it about eighteen inches from a good roasting-fire1 let it turn about ten minutes1 when the skin is firm and dry you press into the bowl of a wooden spoon1 so that it sticks1 about one ounce of butter1 and rub the turkey all over with it2 when all melted1 remove the turkey eight inches further from the fire3 one of about six pounds will take two hours to roast without pouring any fat over it4 ,in case your fire is too fierce and likely to break the skin1 draw it back still more2 it will1 with proper care1 be of a golden color4 ,i do not object to the gizzard being placed under the wing when roasting1 but never the liver1 which ,i cook in the dripping-pan1 as the gravy which would run from it would spoil the color of the breast4 ,when done1 remove it1 cut the strings1 lay it on your dish1 and pour under half a pint of good brown gravy1 or make some with glaze2 or1 whilst the bird is roasting1 butter the bottom of a small stewpan1 pick and slice two onions1 lay them at the bottom1 cut the neck in small pieces1 add half a spoonful of salt1 a quarter ditto of pepper1 a little turnip1 one clove1 set on a slow fire till the onions are of a brown color1 then add a pint of water1 let it simmer for nearly one hour1 then pass it through a sieve into a basin1 skim off the fat1 return the gravy again into a stewpan1 give it a boil1 and1 when the turkey is ready to send to table1 pour it under2 if a little beef or veal handy1 add it to the gravy if you require much4 ,this plan of roasting is adapted for all birds1 and all my receipts for plain roasting of poultry will refer to this1 with the alteration of the time which each takes to cook4 ,for ,sausages1 ,i seldom broil them2 ,i prick them with a needle1 rub the bottom of the frying-pan with a little butter1 put twelve sausages in it1 and set it on a slow fire and fry gently for about fifteen minutes1 turning them when required 7by this plan they will not burst71 serve very hot round the turkey1 or on a separate dish1 of smoking-hot mashed potatoes2 to vary the gravy ,i have tried the following plan3 take off the fat which is in the frying-pan into a basin1 then add the brown gravy1 mix a good teaspoonful of arrow-root in a cup with a wineglassful of cold water1 pour in the pan1 boil a few minutes1 pass it through a sieve1 and serve with the turkey4 ,the gravy this way is excellent4 #cef4 ,turkey with flat ,sausage ,cake4--,roast as before1 fry thirty oval flat sausages 7see ,receipt71 the same quantity of the same sized pieces of bacon1 a quarter of an inch thick1 make a border of mashed potatoes about the size of a finger1 one inch inside the edge of the dish1 dress your sausages and bacon on it as a crown alternately1 put your turkey in the middle1 and gravy over1 or glaze1 if handy2 plain boiled tongue may1 of course1 be served with the turkey1 or separate on a dish of greens2 if any remains of tongue from a previous day1 it may be served instead of the sausages1 cut the same shape as sausages and warmed in a pan2 if so1 put a nice green ,brussels sprout between each piece4 ,bread sauce is generally served with this dish2 for my own part1 ,i never eat it4 ,,boiled ,,turkey4--,this is a dish ,i rarely have1 as ,i never could relish it boiled as it generally is1 by putting it into that pure and chaste element water1 into which has been thrown some salt1 the quantity of which differs as much as the individuals that throw it in4 ,i often reflect to myself1 why should this innocent and well-brought up bird have its remains condemned to this watery bubbling inquisition1 especially when alive it has the greatest horror of this temperate fluid2 it is really for want of reflection that such mistakes occur3 the flavor of a roasted turkey1 hot or cold1 is as superior to the boiled as it is possible to be4 ,but yet there is a kind of boiling which can be adopted1 and which ,i sometimes practise1 which makes a nice palatable dish1 and the broth can be used for other purposes4 ,i think1 if you try it1 you will never again resort to that bubbling system of salt and water4 ,i proceed as follows3-- #ceg4 ,boiled ,braised ,turkey4--,i truss it thus3 ,cut the neck1 leaving the skin on2 cut the legs off2 then run the middle finger into the inside1 raise the skin of the legs1 and put them under the apron of the turkey1 put the liver and gizzard in the pinions1 turn the small end of the pinions on the back1 run a packing-needle with string through the joint of the wing and middle joint of the leg1 and through the body1 and out at the opposite leg and wing1 bring it round and tie it on the back1 then run the needle and string through the ends of the legs or drumstick1 press it through the back1 and tie strongly2 it is then ready4 ,when the turkey is trussed1 ,i then stuff it2 and if ,i intend to have oyster sauce with it1 ,i chop about two dozen of them into small dice and mix them with the stuffing1 and place inside the breast4 ,i then rub the breast with half a lemon1 and put it into a two-gallon pan1 and cover it with cold water1 in which ,i add two ounces of butter1 one ounce of salt1 four onions1 a stick of celery1 one carrot1 two turnips sliced1 a large bouquet of parsley1 two bay-leaves1 two sprigs of thyme2 set it on the fire1 when beginning to boil1 skim it1 let it simmer two hours1 or more if large2 try the breast with a needle1 if it goes in and out easily it is done2 take it out and set it on a dish to drain1 remove the string1 serve on a fresh dish with a pint of good thick oyster sauce over it2 by omitting the oysters in stuffing1 you may serve the turkey with celery sauce1 ,jerusalem sauce1 tomato ditto1 mushroom ditto1 or good parsley and butter2 and1 as an accompaniment1 a piece of about two pounds of nice streaked bacon1 which has been boiled with the turkey1 and from which you have removed the skin1 and serve on some greens1 or ,brussels sprouts1 over which you have thrown a little salt1 pepper1 and two ounces of oiled butter4 ,you see1 dear----1 that this dish can be varied without much expense and trouble2 observe1 that this way1 the broth is good for soup the same day1 and by the addition of two pounds of veal cut in small pieces1 a quarter of a pound of lean bacon1 one onion1 one blade of mace1 one leek1 a wineglass of water2 put into a separate stewpan1 stew on fire till forming a white glaze1 then add it to the turkey when on the point of boiling2 when done1 skim off all fat1 pass it through a tammy or cloth2 you may use it for any clear soup by adding a little brown gravy or coloring1 and also for any kind of pure2 or1 by reducing it a little1 make white or brown sauce1 adding to the last the proper color4 ,i must observe1 that this will be almost impracticable when you have a party2 the only plan would be to get the turkey done one hour before you require it1 keeping it hot with its breast in some of the stock2 but1 as the broth will keep well in small quantities1 it can be reserved for the next day4 ,that is my plan of boiling1 but the following is my new way of giving the flavor of vegetables to all poultry1 which is a decided improvement4 ,the aroma from the bird when the cover is removed is quite inviting1 and the appearance of it1 which is as white as alabaster1 and cuts also full of juice3 ,i call it-- #ceh4 ,roast ,braised ,turkey4--,peel and wash two onions1 one carrot1 one turnip1 cut them in thin slices1 also a little celery1 a few sprigs of parsley1 two bay-leaves1 lay three sheets of paper on the table1 spread your vegetables1 and pour over them two or three tablespoonfuls of oil2 have your turkey1 or poularde1 trussed the same as for boiling2 cover the breast with thin slices of bacon1 and lay the back of the bird on the vegetables2 cut a few slices of lemon1 which you lay on the breast to keep it white1 tie the paper round with string1 then pass the spit and set it before the fire2 pour plenty of fat over to moisten the paper and prevent from burning1 roast three hours at a pretty good distance from the fire2 capons will take two hours1 poulardes one hour and a half1 fowls one hour1 and chickens half an hour4 ,this way it may be served with almost any sauce or garniture1 as stewed peas1 oyster sauce1 jardinire1 stewed celery1 cauliflower1 stewed cucumbers1 ,jerusalem artichokes1 which should be turned in the shape of a pear3 these should be dished on a border of mashed potatoes2 that is1 an artichoke and a ,brussels sprout alternately1 or a small piece of white cauliflower1 and a small bunch of green asparagus1 or stewed peas1 or stewed celery of two inches long1 never more1 or any other vegetable according to season1 which taste or fancy may dictate4 ,when ,i want to serve them with brown garniture or sauce1 ,i remove the paper and vegetables twenty minutes before it is done1 and give it a light golden color1 then ,i serve it with either a ragout financier1 or mushroom or ,english truffle4 ,i also often stuff it thus3 ,i put two pounds of sausage meat in a basin with a little grated nutmeg2 ,i then take two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions1 put them in a saut-pan with a little butter1 and let them do for two minutes1 which add to the meat1 also two eggs well beaten up1 and a quarter of a pint of white sauce if at hand1 and fifteen fine roasted chestnuts2 add this to the stuffing1 and fill the bird as usual1 not too full at the breast2 roast as above1 giving half an hour longer for the forcemeat1 put a quart of demi-glaze and a glass of sherry in a stewpan1 reduce it to a pint and a half1 add in it fifty button onions previously stewed1 and twenty-five roasted chestnuts2 sauce under4 #cei4 ,turkey1 if old4--,the ,french stew it exactly like the ribs of beef1 the receipt of which you have2 but as this is a large pice de rsistance1 ,i think ,i had better give it you in full as ,i do it3--,put a quarter of a pound of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan1 such as will comfortably hold the old gentleman2 cut one pound of lean bacon in ten or twelve pieces for a few minutes in the pan on the fire1 then add your turkey trussed as for boiling1 breast downwards2 set it on a moderate fire for one hour1 and until it is a nice color1 add two tablespoonfuls of flour1 and stir well round until it forms a roux1 then add two quarts of water or broth2 when you have it on the point of boiling1 add fifty pieces of carrot the size of walnuts1 the like of turnip1 ten button onions1 a good bouquet of sprigs of thyme1 two bay-leaves1 and ten of parsley1 a small glass of rum1 a clove1 a piece of garlic1 and let it stew gently for four hours4 ,if you use water1 season in proportion4 ,take your turkey out1 and put the vegetables and sauce in a smaller stewpan1 which ought to be nearly full2 let it simmer on the corner of the fire1 so that the fat rises and may be removed1 and reduce it to a demi-glaze1 dish up your turkey and serve with the sauce over it2 small new potatoes1 about twenty1 when in season1 may be added to the sauce or roasted chestnuts4 ,the remains are excellent when cold1 or will warm again with the addition of a little broth or water4 ,the series of entres will contain the dishes made from the remnants of the foregoing receipts4 ,,fowls1 in a general sense1 mean all kinds of poultry1 but1 in a limited view1 mean one species of bird1 which is exceedingly common in all parts of ,europe3 there are an amazing number of kinds of this species produced by crossing the breed2 great attention having been bestowed upon this subject of late years1 that it is quite impossible to say which is the best4 ,they are not originally natives of ,england1 but were found there by the ,romans1 having probably been brought by the ,phoenicians4 ,we distinguish this kind in cookery as the chicken1 capon1 pullet1 cock1 and hen4 ,chickens from their age cannot be otherwise but tender2 capons should have a fat vein on the side of the breast1 thick belly and rump1 comb short and pale1 spurs short and blunt1 and legs smooth4 ,pullets are best in the spring1 just before they begin to lay4 ,cocks should have their spurs short1 legs smooth1 and comb short1 smooth1 and a bright color4 ,hens1 legs and comb smooth1 and full breast4 ,black legs are best for roasting and entres1 and white for boiling4 ,for preparing them for table1 ,m4 ,soyer has invented a plan3--by cutting the sinews of the bird1 it not only appears fuller and plumper when cooked1 as the heat is liable to contract the sinews1 but it also affords facility for carving when the sinews are divided2 they are trussed in the usual way1 only using string instead of skewers4 ,the following is the ordinary plan of trussing-- ,for ,roasting4--,having emptied the fowl and cleaned the gizzard1 cut the skin of the wings1 and put the gizzard and liver through it1 and turn the pinion under2 put a skewer through the first joint of the pinion and the body1 coming out at the opposite side1 and bring the middle of the leg close up to it2 run a skewer through the middle of both legs and body1 and another through the drumstick and side-bone1 and one through the skins of the feet1 the nails of which must be cut off4 ,for ,boiling4--,prepare as before2 put the finger in the inside1 and raise the skin of the legs2 cut a hole in the top of the skin1 and put the legs under2 put the gizzard and liver in the pinions1 and run a skewer through the first joint2 draw the leg close up1 and run a skewer through the middle of the legs and the body1 tie a string on the tops of the legs to keep them in their proper place4 #cfj4 ,poulards1 ,capons1 and ,fowls4--,these are the best at nine and ten months old2 if after twelve or fourteen1 are only fit to be stewed like the turkey1 ,no4 #cfi1 but in less time1 or boiled in broth or sauces1 but when young serve as boiled turkey1 ,no4 #cfg4 ,roast1 ,no4 #cfe1 less time1 but take care to do it well1 as white meat with red gravy in it is unbearable4 #cfa4 ,capon or ,poulard roasted4--,prepare it as you would a turkey1 and it may be stuffed with the same kind of stuffing1 tie over the breast a large slice of fat bacon1 about a quarter of an inch thick1 and two sheets of paper2 ten minutes before being done1 remove the paper and bacon1 dredge it1 and put a piece of butter on it1 so that it is of a nice color1 dish it up very hot with a gravy like the roast turkey4 #cfb4 ,capon boiled4--,the same as the turkey4 #cfc4 ,capon or ,poulard l',estragon4--,i have been told many fanciful epicures idolize this dish4 ,the bird should be trussed for boiling2 rub the breast with half a lemon1 tie over it some thin slices of bacon1 cover the bottom of a small stewpan with thin slices of the same1 and a few trimmings of either beef1 veal1 or lamb1 two onions1 a little carrot1 turnip1 and celery1 two bay-leaves1 one sprig of thyme1 a glass of sherry1 two quarts of water1 season lightly with salt1 pepper1 and nutmeg1 simmer about one hour and a quarter1 keeping continually a little fire on the lid1 strain three parts of the gravy into a small basin1 skim off the fat1 and pass through a tammy into a small stewpan1 add a drop of gravy or coloring to give it a nice brown color1 boil a few minutes longer1 and put about forty tarragon leaves2 wash1 and put in the boiling gravy1 with a tablespoonful of good ,french vinegar1 and pour over the capon when you serve it2 by clarifying the gravy1 it is an improvement4 ,all kinds of fowls and chickens are continually cooked in this manner in ,france4 ,they are also served with rice4 #cfd4 ,poulard with ,rice4--,having been braised as before1 have a quarter of a pound of good rice washed1 put in a stewpan1 with a pint of broth1 three spoonfuls of the capon's fat from the stewpan1 a bouquet of parsley1 let it simmer until it is tender1 take the parsley out1 add two ounces of butter1 a little salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 stir it round1 or form it into a delicate pulpy paste1 lay some of it on a dish with the capon on it1 put the remainder round it1 making it smooth with a knife1 leaving the breast uncovered2 salamander the rice1 and serve clear gravy separate2 sometimes ,i add a little curry powder in the gravy1 and egg and bread-crumb the rice1 and salamander or make the rice yellow with curry powder1 and make a border of half eggs round the dish1 it looks well1 and that is a great thing2 and one fowl done thus will often go as far as two plain4 ,it is generally the custom with us to send either ham1 tongue1 or bacon1 as an accompaniment to poultry4 ,i endeavor to vary it as much as possible2 the following is one of my receipts4 #cfe4 ,poulards or ,capons1 with ,quenelles and ,tongue4--,when you are either roasting or braising1 you make about twenty quenelles with table spoons1 out of forcemeat of veal4 ,proceed and cook the same2 when done1 make a roll of mashed potatoes1 which put round the dish you intend to serve it in1 have ready cut from a cold tongue as many pieces of the shape of the quenelles1 warm gently in a little gravy1 then put the quenelles on the border2 having cut a piece off the end1 so that they may stand properly1 with a piece of tongue between each1 put the fowl in the centre1 have ready made a quart of a new white sauce1 which pour over the fowl and quenelles1 glaze the tongue1 and serve very hot4 ,i found this dish at first rather complicated1 but now my cook can do it well without my assistance2 it looks and eats well1 but is only adapted for a dinner of importance4 #cff4 ,the same with ,cucumbers4--,cut about four nice fresh cucumbers into lengths of two inches1 peel and divide them down the middle1 take the seedy part out1 trim the corners1 put about thirty of them into a stewpan1 with two ounces of butter1 a spoonful of eschalot1 and the same of sugar2 lay on a very slow fire for half an hour1 or till tender2 lay them on a border of mashed potatoes1 with quenelles as above1 and place the tongue between2 in another stewpan you have put a little butter1 and the trimmings of the cucumbers1 then add a quart of white sauce1 boil and pass through a tammy1 adding a little sugar1 or other seasoning if required1 and finish with half a gill of good cream sauce over all except the tongue1 which glaze4 ,cauliflower1 sprue grass1 ,jerusalem artichokes1 or ,brussels sprouts1 like the turkey1 make excellent and inviting dishes4 #cfg4 ,capon with young ,carrots4--,scrape two bunches of young carrots1 keep them in their original shape as much as possible1 wash them and dry on a cloth1 put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter1 a little sugar1 salt1 and pepper1 set it on the fire for ten minutes1 moving them now and then1 add a quart of white broth1 simmer gently until very tender and it comes to a demi-glaze2 dish the carrots on a border of potatoes1 the points towards the centre1 cook some small button onions the same way1 but very white1 and dress them alternately2 mix the two gravies together with a quart of demi-glaze1 set it on the fire1 boil fast1 skim it1 when forming a bright thinnish sauce1 pour it over the capon and vegetables2 it being served with a brown sauce1 it ought to be roasted brown like turkey 7,no4 #cee72 turnips may also be added instead of carrots1 or both4 #cfh4 ,fowls1 ,italian way4--,prepare and cook the fowls as above1 or re-warm some that may be left1 cut the remains of a tongue into pieces one inch long and one quarter in thickness1 cut three times the quantity of plain boiled macaroni the same way1 with a few mushrooms1 and add the whites of four eggs to it1 with some broth and half a pint of white sauce2 when boiling1 add a quarter of a pound of grated ,parmesan and half that of ,gruyre1 shake the stewpan so that the contents are well mixed1 add a little salt and cayenne1 put fowl on dish1 sauce over and serve2 or put the macaroni on the dish1 mix bread-crumbs and a little grated cheese together and sprinkle over it1 put it into the oven until it is a yellow-brown color1 put the fowl on it very hot1 and serve with a little white sauce over1 and a strong gravy separate4 #cfi4 ,fowl l',ecarlate4--,roast and braise two nice fowls1 and boil a fine salted tongue1 which trim so as to be able to stand it in a dish1 when place it in the middle in a slanting position1 place two fine heads of cauliflower at each end1 and make a pint of cream sauce1 pour over the fowl1 and brocoli2 glaze the tongue and serve4 ,fowls may be dressed in any of the ways before described1 and dished up thus4 ,,geese4--,we have now arrived at your favorite dish1 or1 as your better half said on your return home from this1 ,what is better than a goose stuffed with sage and onion6 ,of course many persons are of his idea1 and ,i must say that ,i for one enjoy them occasionally when in season2 yes1 indeed ,i do1 and with the original apple-sauce too2 this last addition to our national cookery must have been conferred on it by the ,germans1 who eat sweets or stewed fruit with almost every dish2 or1 perhaps1 from ,william the ,conqueror1 who left his land of apples to visit and conquer our shores2 but never mind to whom we are indebted for this bizarre culinary mixture1 ,i sincerely forgive them1 and intend to have one for dinner to-day1 which ,i shall have cooked as follows2 but ,i must first tell you how they should be chosen4 ,the flesh should be of a fine pink color1 and the liver pale1 the bill and foot yellow1 and no hairs1 or but few1 on the body2 the contrary will be observed in an old one1 which will have the feet and bill red4 #cgj4 ,goose 7to truss74--,having well picked the goose1 cut the feet off at the joint1 and the pinion at the first joint2 cut off the neck close to the back1 leaving all the skin you can2 pull out the throat1 and tie a knot at the end2 put your middle finger in at the breast1 loosen the liver1 c41 cut it close to the rump1 and draw out all the inside except the soal1#f wipe it well1 and beat the breast bone flat2 put a skewer in the wings1 and draw the legs close up1 running a skewer through the middle of both legs and body2 draw the small of the leg close down to the side bone1 and run a skewer through2 make a hole in the skin large enough to admit the trail1 which when stuffed place through it1 as it holds the stuffing better4 #cga4 ,roast ,goose4--,peel and cut in rather small dice six middle-sized onions1 put in a pan1 with two ounces of butter1 half a teaspoonful of salt1 a quarter ditto of pepper1 a little grated nutmeg and sugar1 six leaves of fresh sage chopped fine1 put on fire1 stir with wooden spoon till in pulp1 then have the goose ready trussed as under1 and stuff it whilst hot1 tie the skin of the neck to the back1 pass the spit through and roast two hours before a moderate fire2 baste the same as turkey 7,no4 #cee71 give a nice yellow color1 remove it from the spit1 take off the string1 and serve with half a pint of good brown gravy under and apple-sauce in a boat4 #cgb4 ,the same1 with another stuffing4--,i have tried it with the liver chopped and mixed it with the onions2 ,i also at times add two cold potatoes cut in dice and a spoonful of boiled rice2 it removes the richness of the fat1 and renders it more palatable and digestive2 and ,i also sometimes add twenty chestnuts cut into dice4 ,the giblets should be stewed or made into pies4 7,see ,receipt47 ,where there is no gravy1 broth1 or glaze1 still gravy is wanted1 therefore put into the dripping-pan a teaspoonful of salt1 half a pint of water1 and dredge a little flour on it2 when the bird is done1 pour the contents of the pan into a cup1 remove the fat1 pour over the back of the bird1 which serve on a very hot dish as soon as taken from the fire4 #cgc4 ,goose roasted 7another way74--,having the goose ready the day previous to using1 take three cloves of garlic1 which cut into four pieces each and place inside the goose1 and stuff it as follows2 take four apples1 four onions1 four leaves of sage not broken1 four leaves of lemon-thyme not broken1 and boil in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them2 when done1 pulp them through a sieve1 removing the sage and thyme1 then add sufficient pulp of mealy potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently dry without sticking to the hand1 add pepper and salt1 and stuff the bird1 having previously removed the garlic1 tie the neck and rump1 and spit it1 paper the breast1 which remove after it has been at the fire for twenty minutes2 when done1 serve it plain with a thickened gravy4 #cgd4 ,goose stewed4--,if an old one1 stew it with vegetables1 as duck 7,no4 #cgh71 only give it more time to cook4 ,on the ,continent they are dressed in different ways1 but which are too complicated for both our kitchens4 #cge4 ,goose ,giblets1 ,ragout of1 or of ,turkey4--,put them into half a gallon of warm water to disgorge for a few hours1 then dry them on a cloth1 cut into pieces not too small1 put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of good lean bacon1 with two ounces of butter2 when a little brown1 add your giblets1 and fry for twenty minutes longer1 stirring it together2 add a little flour1 a good bouquet of parsley1 twenty button onions1 same number of pieces of carrot and turnip1 two saltspoonfuls of salt1 the same of sugar1 stew together one hour until tender1 skim off the fat1 dish up the meat1 reduce the salt if required1 take bouquet out1 and sauce over the giblets3 both goose and turkey giblets take the same time to stew4 ,if any remaining1 they will make a capital pie or pudding1 or merely warm up with broth or water1 and a little flour4 #cgf4 ,preserved ,goose for the ,farm1 or ,country ,house4--,in case you have more geese in condition and season than what you consume1 kill and cut them up into pieces1 so that there shall be as little flesh left on the carcase as possible1 and bone the leg2 rub into each piece with your fingers some salt1 in which you have mixed a little saltpetre1 put them into an earthen pan1 with some thyme1 bay-leaf1 spice1 a clove of chopped garlic1 rub them for a couple of days1 after which dip each piece in water and dry on a cloth2 when you have chopped fine and melted all the fat you could get from the goose1 and scraped a quarter of a pound of fat bacon and melted with it1 pass through a sieve into a stewpan1 lay the pieces in it1 and bake very gently in a slow oven until a stiff piece of straw will go through it1 then lay it in a sieve2 when nearly cold put it in a bowl or round preserving jar1 and press a smaller one on the top so that it all forms one solid mass1 pour the fat over1 when cold cover with a piece of bladder1 keep it in a cold place1 and it will be good for months together1 and is excellent for breakfast1 luncheon1 or supper1 having previously extracted the fat4 ,last winter ,i kept some for three months quite sweet2 having half a one left1 ,i put it by in the above way1 bones and all1 in a basin1 and covered with the fat produced with roasting1 and put in the larder1 and it was excellent4 ,ducks may be served in the same way4 ,,ducks4--,there are several varieties of this bird1 all1 however1 originating from the mallard4 ,there has not been that care and attention paid to this bird as to the fowl2 but ,i think it is well worthy the attention of farmers1 it being one which is exceedingly cheap to rear2 great care should be evinced in feeding it twelve days previous to its being killed4 ,ducklings are considered a luxury1 but which1 ,i think1 is more to be attributed to their scarcity than flavor4 ,the drake is generally considered the best1 but1 as a general rule1 those of the least gaudy plumage are the best2 they should be hard and thick on the belly1 and limber-footed4 #cgg4 ,ducks roasted4--,prepare them for the spit 7that is1 the same as geese1 only leave the fat on71 and stuff them with sage1 onion1 and bread-crumbs1 prepared as for the goose1 roast before a very quick fire1 and serve very hot4 ,there are many ways of cooking ducks1 but this is the plainest and the best4 #cgh4 ,stewed ,duck and ,peas4--,procure a duck trussed with the legs turned inside1 which put into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon let remain over a fire1 stirring occasionally until lightly browned1 when add a tablespoonful of flour 7mix well7 and a quart of broth or water1 stir round gently until boiling1 when skim1 and add twenty button onions1 a bunch of parsley1 with a bay-leaf1 and two cloves1 let simmer a quarter of an hour1 then add a quart of nice young peas1 let simmer until done1 which will take about half an hour longer1 take out the duck1 place it upon your dish 7taking away the string it was trussed with71 take out the parsley and bay-leaf1 season the peas with a little pepper1 salt1 and sugar1 skim the fat1 reduce a little if not sufficiently thick1 pour over the duck and serve4 #cgi4 ,duckling with ,turnips is a very favorite dish amongst the middle classes in ,france4 ,proceed as in the last1 but instead of peas use about forty pieces of good turnips cut into moderate-sized square pieces1 having previously fried them of a light yellow color in a little butter or lard1 and drained them upon a sieve1 dress the duck upon a dish as before1 season the sauce with a little pepper1 salt1 and sugar1 reduce until rather thickish1 a thin sauce not suiting a dish of this description2 the turnips must not1 however1 be in pure2 sauce over and serve4 ,the remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may be hashed as directed for goose1 and for variety1 should peas be in season1 a pint previously boiled may be added to the hash just before serving4 ,the sage and apple must in all cases be omitted4 #chj4 ,ducks l',aubergiste 7or ,tavern-keepers' fashion74--,truss one or two ducks with the legs turned inside1 put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter2 place them over a slow fire1 turning round occasionally1 until they have taken a nice brown color1 add two spoonfuls of flour1 mix well with them1 add a quart of water1 with half a tablespoonful of salt and sugar1 let simmer gently until the ducks are done 7but adding forty button onions well peeled as soon as it begins to boil71 keep hot2 peel and cut ten turnips in slices1 fry them in a frying-pan in butter1 drain upon a cloth1 put them into the sauce1 and stew until quite tender2 dress the ducks upon your dish1 skim the fat from the sauce1 which has attained a consistency1 add some fresh mushrooms1 pour round the ducks and serve4 ,,flancs4 ,at this part of the dinner there are those dishes which are called ,flancs1 by which is understood1 those dishes whose contents are not so large as the removes and not so small as the entres1 and the ,receipts for which may be taken from either of those departments1 with this difference2--instead of meat or poultry being cut up1 it should be left whole3 for instance1 a loin of mutton1 instead of being cut up into cutlets1 should be served whole1 with some sauce under it1 and a duck1 instead of being divided1 should be left whole1 with some sauce4 ,it is also a great addition in the appearance of the table1 and should always be served in a differently-formed dish to the entres or removes2 and are only required when eighteen or twenty persons dine1 and four corner dishes are used4 ,,entr,,es ,,or ,,made ,,dishes4 ,,entr,,es are1 in common terms1 what are called made-dishes2 of course1 these are dishes upon which1 in the high class of cookery1 the talent of the cook is displayed4 ,great care should be observed in dishing them up1 for the eye is a great assistance to the palate2 it often happens that the carelessness of the servant destroys the labors of the cook1 by the manner in which the dish is taken from the kitchen to the dining-room4 ,in some measure to avoid that1 ,i direct a small thin border of mashed potatoes1 about half an inch wide and a quarter of an inch deep1 to be placed on the bottom of the dish1 which keeps each object in its place3 they should always be served exceedingly hot4 ,made ,dishes of ,beef4--,the remainder of any cooked joints of beef may be advantageously and economically dressed in the following ways3 #cha4 ,hashed ,beef4--,cut the beef into small thin slices1 which lay upon a plate1 and to every pound of beef add half a tablespoonful of flour1 a little chopped onion or eschalot1 two salt-spoonfuls of salt1 and a half one of pepper1 mix the whole well together1 and put it into a saucepan1 with half a pint of water1 stir it over the fire until upon the point of boiling1 when set it at the corner of the fire to simmer for ten minutes2 it is then ready to serve4 ,a great improvement to the appearance of hash may be effected by adding a few spoonfuls of brown gravy 7,no4 #agg71 or a teaspoonful of coloring 7,no4 #agh71 which might always be kept in a bottle4 ,the flavor of any kind of hash may be varied1 by adding a few sprigs of parsley1 or thyme1 or a couple of bay-leaves1 or a little tarragon1 or a few spoonfuls of catsup1 ,soyer's1 ,harvey's1 ,soho1 or ,reading sauce4 #chb4 ,miroton of ,beef4--,peel and cut into thin slices two large onions1 put them in a stewpan or saucepan1 with two ounces of salt butter1 place it over a slow fire1 keeping the onions stirred round with a wooden spoon until rather brown1 but not burnt in the least1 then add a teaspoonful of flour1 which mix well in1 and moisten with half a pint of water or broth if handy1 season with three saltspoonfuls of salt1 two of sugar1 and one of pepper if water has been used1 but if broth1 diminish the quantity of salt1 add a little coloring 7,no4 #agh71 to improve its appearance2 put in the beef1 which you have previously cut into small thin slices1 as free from fat as possible1 let it remain a few minutes upon the fire to simmer1 and serve upon a hot dish4 ,to vary the flavor1 a tablespoonful of vinegar might be added1 or half a glass of sherry4 ,the above proportions are sufficient for one pound and a half of solid meat1 and of course could be increased or diminished1 if more or less meat4 #chc4 ,another way4--,prepare the meat precisely as in the last1 and when done put it into a pie-dish1 sprinkle bread-crumbs lightly over1 enough to cover the meat1 upon which lay a small piece of butter1 put the dish in the oven for half an hour1 or before the fire1 with a screen behind it1 turning the dish round occasionally4 ,by grating the crust of bread you would obtain some brown bread-crumbs1 which would do equally as well as bread rubbed through a sieve4 ,should you have any cold from the first receipt1 it may be served as here directed2 but being cold1 would require to be longer in the oven to become well hot through4 #chd4 ,another way4--,if any left from a previous dinner1 put it in a dish1 placing the meat in the centre1 rather higher1 cover over with some delicate mashed potatoes1 about two inches in thickness1 to form a dome1 rub some egg over with a paste-brush1 and sprinkle crumbs of bread 7either grated or otherwise7 upon the top1 and set in the oven until well browned1 when serve4 #che4 ,a quicker way4--,cook a few slices of lean bacon in a frying-pan1 but not too much1 lay some of them in the bottom of the pie-dish1 over which lay slices of beef cut thin1 which season with a little pepper1 salt1 chopped parsley1 and chopped eschalots 7if not objectionable71 sprinkle over a little flour1 proceeding thus until the dish is pretty full1 when pour over half a gill of broth or water1 to which you have added a little coloring1 ,no4 #agh1 7more seasoning would be required if water was used71 set the dish in the oven 7having previously covered the meat over with mashed potatoes7 for about an hour4 ,by adding half the above quantity of liquor1 the meat might be covered with a thin suet crust and served as a pie1 as also might any of the former receipts1 in which also a bay-leaf1 chopped parsley1 or even chopped gherkins1 might be served1 being a great improvement4 #chf4 ,beef ,palates4--,although this is an article very seldom used in small families1 they are very much to be commended2 they may be dressed in various ways1 and are not expensive1 about four would be sufficient for a dish4 ,put them into a large stewpan of lukewarm water1 where let them remain four or five hours to disgorge1 after which pour off the water1 cover again with fresh water1 and place the stewpan upon the fire until the palates become hard1 when take out one1 which dip into cold water1 scrape it with a knife1 and if the skin comes off easily1 take out the remainder1 but if not1 let them remain a short time longer1 scrape them until you have got off all the skin1 and nothing but the white half transparent substance remains4 ,then make a white stock as directed 7,no4 #acj71 in which boil them three or four hours until very tender1 which try with the point of a knife1 then take them up1 lay them flat upon a dish1 covered with a little of the stock1 and place another dish of the same size over1 to keep them flat1 let remain until cold1 when they are ready to serve in either of the following ways3-- #chg4 ,beef ,palates la ,bretonne4--,peel and cut two large onions into slices1 which put into a stewpan1 with an ounce of butter1 stirring them over the fire until lightly fried1 when add a teaspoonful of flour1 which mix well in1 and a gill of broth1 season with a little pepper1 salt1 and sugar1 add a few drops of brown gravy or browning 7,no4 #agi71 and a spoonful of mustard2 boil the whole1 keeping it stirred until forming a thickish pulp1 when cut the palates into square pieces1 and put into it2 when well hot through they are ready to serve2 also make a curry sauce1 as ,no4 #aea2 cut your palate and warm in it1 serve with rice separate1 and it is delicious4 #chh4 ,beef ,palates la ,poulette4--,make a little white sauce as directed1 ,no4 #acj2 after having prepared the palates1 cut them into square pieces1 and put them into a stewpan1 just covered with some of the white sauce1 season with a little white pepper1 salt1 sugar1 chopped parsley1 and the juice of half a lemon2 let them simmer about five minutes1 when pour in a liaison of one yolk of an egg1 mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk1 stir it in rather quickly1 and not afterwards permitting it to boil1 then turn it upon your dish1 place sippets of toasted bread round1 and serve3 chopped parsley and a little lemon may be added4 #chi4 ,beef ,palates la ,matre d',htel4--,cut up the palates as in the last1 and put them into a stewpan1 just covered with melted butter1 to which add a gill of milk1 let simmer very gently about ten minutes1 stirring it round occasionally2 have ready two ounces of well-seasoned matre d'htel butter1 which put into the stewpan1 shaking it round until the butter is melted and well mixed1 when serve as in the last4 #cij4 ,ox-tails la ,jardinire4--,cut and cook two ox-tails as directed for soup1 but just before they are done1 skim well1 and take out the pieces of tails1 which put upon a dish1 then in another stewpan put two ounces of butter1 to which1 when melted1 add three ounces of flour1 stirring it over the fire until forming a brownish roux 7thickening71 then mix by degrees two quarts of the stock the tails were boiled in1 and boil altogether ten minutes1 then put in the tails1 with one carrot and two turnips 7cut into small dice1 or any other shape1 with a vegetable cutter71 and about thirty button onions2 let the whole simmer very gently upon the corner of the fire1 keeping it well skimmed1 until the vegetables are tender1 and the sauce sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon1 when dress the meat upon a dish1 reduce the sauce1 which pour over1 and serve4 #cia4 ,ox-tails au ,gratin4--,cook two ox-tails as before1 and when cold1 dry them upon a cloth1 season with pepper and salt1 have a couple of eggs well beaten upon a plate1 into which dip each piece singly1 afterwards throwing them into a dish of bread-crumbs1 to cover every part1 then beat them lightly with a knife1 and again egg and bread-crumb them1 broil them upon a gridiron1 or place them in a very hot oven until of a brownish color1 when serve with any sauce you may fancy1 or with a little plain gravy4 #cib4 ,ox-tails1 ,sauce piquante4--,cook the tails as before1 and when done dress them upon your dish pyramidically1 then make about a pint of sharp sauce1 ,no4 #ace1 but omitting half the quantity of vinegar1 and reducing it until rather thick2 season rather highly1 add three or four gherkins chopped very fine1 pour the sauce over1 and serve4 #cic4 ,ox ,heart4--,this dish1 although not very recherch1 is a good family one1 and remarkable for its cheapness4 ,put it into lukewarm water one hour to disgorge1 then wipe it well with a cloth1 and stuff the interior with a highly-seasoned veal stuffing1 tie it up in paper1 and pass a small spit through the sides1 set it before a good fire for about two hours to roast1 keeping it well basted2 when done1 take off the paper1 and serve with any sharp sauce1 or a little plain gravy4 ,two hours would be sufficient to roast a large heart2 but if smaller1 of course less time in proportion would be required4 ,i have also stuffed a heart with sage and onion1 and even ventured the apple sauce3 both succeeded admirably4 ,i remember1 when in business1 upon one occasion1 having a few friends pop in unexpectedly about luncheon-time upon a ,saturday 7which is a day ,i always contrived to keep my larder as short as possible71 and having nothing but a heart as a meal to give them1 ,i immediately gave orders to the cook to cut it into slices half an inch thick1 dip each piece in flour1 and afterwards egg and bread-crumb them1 then to put four spoonfuls of oil in the frying-pan1 lay part of the pieces in1 and saut of a nice color1 then to keep them hot in a dish and saut the remainder2 and when all done1 to pour off part of the oil1 put a teaspoonful of flour in the pan1 mixing it with the remaining oil and gravy1 then pouring in a gill of water1 season with a little pepper and salt1 four spoonfuls of the vinegar from piccalilly1 and a little of the pickle finely chopped2 boil the whole a minute1 pour over the heart1 and serve very hot4 ,it pleased very much1 and ,i have since had some with a little plain gravy1 and broiled bacon3 in both instances it was very good4 #cid4 ,potato ,sandwiches4--,saut the slices of beef as directed for bubble and squeak1 cover one side of each piece with mashed potatoes a quarter of an inch in thickness1 egg and bread-crumb over1 then proceed the same with the other sides1 fry in hot fat of a light brown color1 as you would a sole1 and serve4 ,any kind of fresh meat may be used in the same way4 #cie4 ,bubble and ,squeak4--,i am certain you must know1 as well as myself1 of our hereditary dish called bubble and squeak2 but1 like the preparation of other things1 there is a good way and a bad2 and1 as you prefer the former to the latter1 proceed as follows3--,boil a few greens1 or a savoy cabbage 7which has been previously well-washed71 in plain water until tender1 which then drain until quite dry in a colander or sieve1 put it upon a trencher1 and chop it rather fine with a knife1 then for a pound of salt beef you have in slices1 put nearly a quarter of a pound of butter into a frying-pan1 in which saut the beef gently but not too dry2 when done1 keep it hot1 put the cabbage in the frying-pan1 season with a little salt and pepper1 and when hot through1 dress it upon a dish1 lay the beef over and serve4 ,endive or large cabbage-lettuces may be used instead of cabbage1 but care must be taken to drain off all the water4 #cif4 ,stewed ,beef or ,rump ,steak4--,have a steak weighing two pounds1 and an inch and a half in thickness1 then put two ounces of butter at the bottom of a stewpan1 when melted lay in the steak1 with a quarter of a pound of lean bacon cut into very small square pieces1 place the stewpan over the fire1 turning the steak over occasionally until a little browned1 when lay it out upon a dish1 then add a tablespoonful of flour to the butter in the stewpan1 which continue stirring over the fire until forming a brownish roux1 then again lay in the steak1 add a pint of water1 with a glass of sherry if handy1 and a little pepper1 salt1 and a couple of bay-leaves1 let simmer slowly for one hour1 when skim off all the fat1 and add twenty button onions1 let it again simmer until the onions are very tender1 as likewise the steak1 which dress upon a dish1 take the onions and bacon out with a colander-spoon1 and lay them upon the steak1 pour the sauce round and serve4 ,this slow process must not alarm you4 #cig4 ,ox ,brains are prepared exactly as directed for calf's brains1 but being larger1 require much longer to disgorge1 as also a proportionate time longer to cook2 when done1 in addition to the sauce ordered for calf's brains1 they may be served with strips of bacon broiled and dressed in a border round1 sauce over with highly-seasoned melted butter and parsley sauce4 ,you must observe1 that all such kind of dishes being of themselves naturally tasteless1 require to be highly seasoned3 any sharp sauce is good with it4 #cih4 ,beef -la-,mode4--,procure a small piece of rump1 sirloin1 or ribs of beef1 about twelve pounds in weight1 take away all the bone1 and lard the meat through with ten long pieces of fat bacon1 then put it into a long earthen pan1 with a calf's foot1 four onions1 two carrots1 cut in slices if large1 a bunch of parsley1 two bay-leaves1 two sprigs of thyme1 two cloves stuck into one of the onions1 half a teaspoonful of pepper1 one of salt1 four wine-glasses of sherry1 four ditto of water1 and a pound of streaky bacon cut in squares1 place the cover over the pan with a piece of common flour and water paste round the edges to keep it perfectly air-tight1 and place it in a moderate oven four hours1 when take out of the pan1 and dress upon a dish with the vegetables and bacon round1 skim and pass the gravy through a hair sieve1 which pour over and serve4 ,but the above is best eaten cold1 when it should not be taken from the pan1 or the pan opened until nearly so4 ,a long brown earthen pan for the above purposes may be obtained at any china warehouse1 but should you not be able to procure one1 a stewpan must supply its place4 #cii4 ,another method4--,have ready six pounds of rump of beef1 cut into pieces two inches square1 each of which lard through with two or three strips of bacon2 have also two pounds of streaky bacon1 which clear from the rind and cut into squares half the size of the beef1 put the whole into an earthen pan1 with two calf's feet 7cut up small71 half a pint of sherry1 two bay-leaves1 a sprig of thyme1 a bunch of parsley1 four onions1 with a clove stuck in each1 a blade of mace1 and half a pint of water1 cover the pan as in the last1 and put it in a moderate oven for three hours2 when done1 do not remove the lid until three parts cold1 then take out the meat1 lay some of the beef at the bottom of the stewpan 7not too large71 then a little bacon1 then more beef1 and so on alternately1 press them lightly together1 pass the gravy through a hair sieve over1 and leave it until quite cold and set1 when dip the stewpan into hot water1 and turn it out upon a dish to serve4 ,the calf's feet may be made hot in a little of the stock1 to which add two pats of butter1 with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour1 season with a little chopped parsley and half a spoonful of vinegar1 and serve as an entre4 ,the above is excellent either hot or cold4 #djj4 ,fillet of ,beef4--,procure a piece of fillet of beef weighing about two or three pounds1 which may be obtained at any butcher's1 being cut from underneath the rump2 trim off part of the fat1 so as to round the fillet1 which cut into slices the thickness of your finger1 beat them lightly with a chopper1 and cut the thin skin which covers the top of the fillet1 to prevent their curling up whilst broiling2 place them upon a gridiron over a sharp fire1 seasoning with a little salt and pepper1 and turning three or four times to preserve the gravy3 about six or seven minutes will be sufficient to cook them4 ,three or four slices would be sufficient for a corner dish2 but if for a principal dish1 of course more would be required4 ,fillet of beef dressed as above may be rubbed over with matre d'htel or anchovy butter1 and served very hot4 #dja4 ,fillet of ,beef saut4--,after having cut the fillet in slices as in the last1 put two ounces of butter into a clean frying-pan1 which set upon the fire1 and when melted1 lay in the meat1 seasoned with a saltspoonful of salt and half that quantity of pepper to each piece2 turn them over three or four times whilst cooking1 and1 when done1 dress upon your dish1 with either of the butters mentioned in the last spread over4 #djb4 ,another method4--,when the fillets are dished up1 put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into the pan they were cooked in1 which cook for about a minute1 but not letting them burn1 then pour off part of the fat1 if too much1 and add two teaspoonfuls of flour2 stir with a wooden spoon until becoming brownish1 then add nearly a pint of water1 a tablespoonful of vinegar1 and a few drops of browning2 let it boil a few minutes1 seasoning with a little pepper1 salt1 and sugar2 when of the consistency of thick sauce1 pour over the fillets and serve4 ,a few chopped pickles of any description 7but not too hot7 might be introduced1 but then half the quantity of vinegar would be sufficient4 ,a spoonful of ,harvey's sauce may be added1 and a little glaze improves it4 ,mutton1 lamb1 or pork-chops1 or veal-cutlets may be dressed in a similar manner4 #djc4 ,minced ,beef4--,cut a pound and a half of lean cooked beef into very small dice1 which put upon a plate2 in a stewpan put a good teaspoonful of finely-chopped onions1 with a piece of butter of the size of a walnut1 which stir over the fire until the onions become lightly browned1 when stir in half a tablespoonful of flour1 with which mix by degrees half a pint of broth 7or water7 to which you have added a few drops of browning and a teaspoonful of vinegar2 let it boil five minutes1 stirring it the whole time2 then throw in the meat1 season rather highly with a little pepper and salt1 and1 when hot1 pour it into a deep dish1 and serve with sippets of toasted bread round1 or poached eggs on it4 #djd4 ,croquettes of ,beef4--,proceed precisely as in the last1 but omitting the vinegar2 when done1 stir in two yolks of eggs quickly1 stir another minute over the fire1 then pour it upon a dish until cold2 have a couple of eggs well beaten upon a plate1 also some bread-crumbs in a separate dish1 then divide the preparation into about a dozen pieces1 which roll up into round balls1 or any other shape1 and throw them into the bread-crumbs1 move them over until well covered1 then roll them into the egg1 then the bread-crumbs again1 from which take them gently1 patting the surface lightly with a knife1 put them into very hot lard or fat to fry of a yellowish-brown color1 being careful not to break them whilst frying2 when done drain them upon a cloth1 and serve either upon a napkin or with fried parsley4 #dje4 ,a ,family ,french ,salad for the ,summer4--,i can assure you that1 when in ,france during the hot weather1 ,i used to enjoy the following salads immensely1 having them usually twice a week for my dinner2 they are not only wholesome1 but cheap and quickly done4 ,cut up a pound of cold beef into thin slices1 which put into a salad-bowl with about half a pound of white fresh lettuce1 cut into pieces similar to the beef1 season over with a good teaspoonful of salt1 half that quantity of pepper1 two spoonfuls of vinegar1 and four of good salad oil1 stir all together lightly with a fork and spoon1 and when well mixed it is ready to serve4 ,for a change1 cabbage-lettuce may be used1 or1 if in season1 a little endive 7well washed71 or a little celery1 or a few gherkins2 also1 to vary the seasoning1 a little chopped tarragon and chervil1 chopped eschalots1 or a little scraped garlic1 if approved of1 but all in proportion1 and used with moderation4 ,white haricot beans are also excellent with it4 #djf4 ,potatoes and ,meat ,salad4--,proceed as in the last1 but omitting the lettuce2 if any cold potatoes remain from a previous dinner1 peel and cut them in halves if small1 but in quarters if large1 and then into pieces the size of a shilling but four times the thickness2 put them into a salad-bowl with the meat1 seasoning as before1 but using more oil and vinegar1 and adding a teaspoonful of chopped parsley4 ,a small quantity of any description of pickles might be added to this salad1 as also some anchovies or olives4 ,the remains of any fowls1 turkey1 cold veal1 lamb1 or even mutton1 may be mixed in salads1 but1 according to our habits1 many persons would fancy they were not nutritious2 of that ,i can assure them to the contrary4#g #djg4 ,ox-,kidneys4--,cut a nice fresh ox-kidney into slices1 each being about the size of a half-crown piece1 but double the thickness 7avoiding the white part1 or root1 which is tough and indigestible71 then put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan upon the fire1 and when very hot but not black1 put in the pieces of kidney1 stirring them round with a wooden spoon three minutes over a brisk fire2 then add1 for each pound weight of kidney1 half a tablespoonful of flour1 half a teaspoonful of salt1 half the quantity of pepper1 and a little sugar1 moisten with a gill of water and half a glass of sherry1 add a little browning if handy1 and let simmer gently for five minutes1 stirring them round occasionally2 if too thick1 add a few drops more of water1 the same should be sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon1 pour them out upon your dish1 and serve very hot4 ,broth might be used instead of water if convenient1 but then the seasoning should be a little diminished1 a little chopped eschalot1 parsley1 or a few mushrooms1 would be an improvement4 ,by cutting an ox-kidney lengthwise in three slices1 it might be broiled or sautd2 if for gentlemen1 season rather highly1 but if ladies are to be the partakers1 season more moderately2 a little gravy may be served with it1 to which you have added a little catsup2 the root of the kidney must not be cut away in this case1 although not eatable4 ,ox-kidneys are also an excellent addition to beef-steak puddings and pies4 #djh4 ,ox-,feet or ,cow-,heels are very nutritious1 especially when well boiled2 they may be served in either of the methods directed for tripe1 or with a plain parsley-and-butter sauce1 to which1 for a change1 the juice of a lemon or a drop of vinegar may be added4 ,should any be left from the first day's dinner1 it may be served la ,lyonnaise1 as directed for cold tripe4 #dji4 ,remains of ,ox-,tongue4--,the remains of a tongue from a previous dinner may be again served thus3--,cut it into thin slices1 put a small piece of butter into a frying-pan1 lay the pieces of tongue over1 which warm a few minutes in a saut-pan1 and serve with veal or fowl1 if any2 when at home alone1 ,i frequently have it with mashed potatoes under1 it makes a very good dish for luncheon4 ,the pieces of tongue might also be egged and bread-crumbed previous to cooking as above1 and served with a plain gravy1 or any sharp sauce4 7,see ,sauces47 ,or should you have any tongue1 and veal or beef remaining1 sprinkle a little chopped eschalots at the bottom of a pie-dish1 lay a layer of meat over1 season with a little salt1 pepper1 and chopped parsley1 then a layer of the tongue2 have some yellowish crusts of bread grated1 a teaspoonful of which sprinkle over the tongue1 then again a layer of the meat1 proceeding thus until the dish is nearly full1 when sprinkle more of the brown bread-crumbs over the top1 placing a small piece of butter here and there2 pour in two wineglassfuls of water1 set it in a warm oven half an hour1 and serve very hot4 ,or instead of bread-crumbs1 make a little good mashed potatoes1 which spread over it smoothly with a spoon or knife1 bake half an hour in a warm oven1 and serve4 ,should the remains of a tongue be but small1 and if well pickled and boiled1 the root and all would be excellent in any kind of beef1 lamb1 mutton1 veal1 or pork1 hashed1 or in pies or puddings made from those meats4 #daj4 ,remains of ,salt ,beef4--,the remains of salt beef are very excellent1 served in the few following ways1 no matter from what joint1 or from what part of the joint3 cut as large and thin slices as possible1 dip each slice into some vinegar from mixed pickles1 previously poured upon a plate in small quantities2 lay about a pound of the meat thus prepared upon a flat dish1 pour a wineglassful of water over1 warm it through in the oven1 or before a small fire1 and serve4 ,another way is1 after having dipped the beef in pickles1 roll them in flour and proceed as above1 adding double the quantity of water4 ,another way is to saut the slices with a little butter in a frying-pan1 have ready some nice mashed potatoes very hot1 lay the beef over1 and serve4 ,fricandeau of ,veal4--,this is a very favorite dish of mine4 ,it is generally considered an expensive one1 but the way in which ,i do it1 it is not so2 besides which1 it gives a nice piece of veal at table1 when a fillet would be too large4 ,i proceed to prepare it thus3 #daa4 ,having the fillet prepared with the bone out as if for roasting1 ,i lay it on a board with the skin side downwards1 and then remove 7not cutting it7 that part of the outside which is separated from the thick fleshy part 7in ,france called la noix7 of the fillet by a skin2 ,i then place my hand on the top of the thick part1 and cut away two thirds of it1 leaving an inch to an inch and a half of flesh for the fillet4 ,i then take a chopper dipped in cold water1 and beat the veal with the flat part1 so as to make it of an equal thickness2 ,i then lard it 7see ,larding74 ,you may not succeed very well the first or second time1 but now ,i am quite an artist in larding1 as is also my cook1 whom ,i taught1 it being so much like sewing4 ,but should you not be able to manage it1 you must send it to the poulterer4 ,the remains make an excellent fillet for another day's dinner4 ,having proceeded thus far1 ,i then cook it in the following manner3 #dab4 ,i take a stewpan of a convenient size1 and lay on the bottom six or eight slices of bacon1 and place the fricandeau on them2 ,i then take two onions1 two small carrots cut in slanting pieces1 which place round it2 ,i then make a bouquet of ten sprigs of parsley1 two of thyme1 two of bay-leaf1 which ,i put in with two cloves1 half a blade of mace1 and about a pint of broth or water1 so as not to cover the larding2 if no broth1 use water and a teaspoonful of salt1 cover it with a sheet of buttered paper1 set it on a moderate fire2 when on the point of boiling1 put it in a slack oven1 where let it remain for two or three hours2 be careful every twenty minutes to moisten or baste the fricandeau with the gravy which is in the stewpan2 the slower it is done the better2 ten minutes before it is removed from the oven1 take off the paper1 in order that the top may obtain a nice yellow color2 if the oven should not be hot enough1 place live coals on the lid of the stewpan until done1 try also if it is tender with a pointed knife4 ,this dish ought to be carved with a spoon1 being so tender2 but ,i prefer to cut it with a very sharp knife1 as it is more inviting in appearance4 ,if you have no oven ready1 stew gently on a hot plate1 or by the side of the stove1 with the lid on and live coals on the top4 ,if you let it burn by any neglect or accident1 do not tell your friends that ,i gave you the receipt1 as it would eat so very bad1 and ,i should lose my good name4 ,it can be served with any sauce or pure1 but the one ,i prefer is as follows3 ,take the gravy from the stewpan1 which ought to be about half a pint1 if not so much add water1 pass it through a fine sieve into a basin1 remove the fat from the top1 put it into a small stewpan1 reduce it a little to a demi-glaze1 mix half a teaspoonful of arrow-root in a cup1 with a little water1 put it in the gravy1 boil two minutes2 it ought to be of a bright yellow color1 and transparent2 the fricandeau should be served with gravy under it4 ,the following pures are excellent to serve with it3 sorrel1 endive1 peas1 beans1 artichokes1 and spinach2 tomato1 mushroom1 and cucumber sauces1 c4 ,if a piece of udder can be procured1 stew it with the fricandeau1 and serve it in the same dish4 ,this receipt will well repay the trouble attending it4 ,the following is very good1 and more simple4 #dac4 ,fricandeau ,bourgeoise1 in its ,gravy4--,cut as before from the fillet1 cut the bacon the same as for the neck1 and laid with about thirty large pieces1 but in a slanting direction1 leaving but little of the bacon to be seen1 as the object is to give all the advantage of the bacon to the meat2 put it into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter1 a quarter of an ounce of salt1 and one tenth of that of pepper2 set it on the fire for five minutes1 turn it with a fork round and round1 then rake some cinders over the coals or charcoal so as to make it go slow1 and until it becomes of a nice yellow color2 then add a gill of water1 a bay-leaf1 half an onion1 stew until quite tender1 turning it over and over now and then2 put it on a dish1 skim the fat off the gravy1 pour it over1 and serve4 ,it may also be served thus3 by throwing into the stewpan about twenty mushrooms1 well washed about ten minutes before serving2 if the gravy is too thin1 add a little arrow-root1 and serve3 it can also be served with the sauces named in the former ,receipt4 ,nothing is nicer cold than this2 if required to be re-warmed1 put it into a little broth or warm water1 and heat slowly4 #dad4 ,calf's ,liver saut4--,cut it into slices1 put a little butter in the saut- or frying-pan1 when melted1 lay the liver in season with salt1 pepper1 a teaspoonful of chopped eschalot1 parsley1 and grated nutmeg1 saut on a sharp fire1 when rather brown on both sides dredge a tablespoonful of ,french vinegar1 or a glass of wine1 stir it well1 and boil for a few minutes2 dish the liver in crowns2 if the sauce is too pale1 add a little mushroom catsup or coloring1 and it had better be too thin than too thick2 taste if well seasoned1 and serve3 the above is for about two pounds of liver4 #dae4 ,calf's ,liver1 ,english way4--,cut the liver into thin slices1 dip them in flour1 and put in a saut or frying-pan in which some slices of bacon have been previously cooked1 and have left sufficient fat in it2 saut the liver until quite brown and rather crisp1 when take out and place it upon a dish with the bacon1 then dredge a spoonful of flour in the pan1 or enough to absorb all the fat in it1 then add a little broth or water so as to make it a thinnish sauce1 season it1 and add two spoonfuls of ,harvey's sauce or mushroom catsup4 ,if the above is nicely done1 and the pieces cut the size of cutlets1 it will make a nice entre for an ordinary dinner4 ,it should be served immediately1 and very hot4 #daf4 ,calf's ,liver1 dry4--,the same may be served dry with the bacon1 or with any sharp sauce4 #dag4 ,calf's ,heart1 roasted4--,proceed exactly the same as for ox's heart1 only this being more delicate and smaller requires less time to roast1 from half an hour to one hour1 depending on the size2 they may also be cut in slices and sautd like the liver above2 or1 by having four for a large dish they may be dressed exactly like the liver 7,no4 #dae71 but white instead of brown2 stuff them and saut white in butter1 which depends on a slow fire1 and1 adding the flour1 just give a few turns and add the broth immediately1 then the onions and mushrooms1 season as described in the liver1 stew very gently for one hour1 take out the hearts1 skim off the fat1 let it be thickish1 boil down a little if required1 prepare two yolks of eggs well beaten1 with a quarter of a gill of milk1 broth1 or water1 which pour into the same1 stir quick for half a minute1 add the juice of half a lemon1 trim the hearts1 dish them in a dish with the points upwards1 pour the sauce over1 and serve4 #dah4 ,roast ,sweetbreads4--,take the sweetbreads and lay them in water at blood-heat1 to disgorge1 for three to four hours2 then blanch them for two minutes in boiling water1 put them into a stewpan with a few slices of carrot1 onions1 turnip1 a little parsley1 thyme1 bay-leaf1 six peppercorns1 a blade of mace1 and a small piece of bacon1 cover over with a little broth or water1 and let it boil for twenty minutes2 take them out and dry them in a cloth1 egg and bread-crumb them1 tie them on a spit1 and roast a nice brown color for ten to fifteen minutes2 or they may be browned in an oven1 or fried in very hot lard for ten minutes1 in which case they should stew a little longer2 they may be served with plain gravy and a piece of toasted bread under1 or a little melted butter and some ,harvey's1 ,reading1 or ,soyer's sauce1 and a little catsup added to it1 boiled and poured round it2 or with any of the sauces fricandeau4 ,the heart-bread being generally so expensive1 ,i seldom make use of it1 but it may be blanched1 larded1 cooked1 and served like the fricandeau1 diminishing the larding and cooking according to the size of the bread1 or it may be dressed as above1 or1 if a large throat-bread1 it may be larded4 #dai4 ,sweetbreads saut4--,blanch two throat-sweetbreads as in the preceding receipt1 cut them in slices1 put some butter in a frying-pan1 and melt2 then put in the sweet-bread1 season over with salt1 pepper1 juice of a lemon1 parsley1 and bay-leaf2 turn them until done1 and serve very hot1 with matre d'htel sauce over4 #dbj4 ,another way4--,prepare as above2 add a little flour and a gill of broth1 a few raw mushrooms1 stir continually to prevent burning1 add a few spoonfuls of cream and serve2 if any remain1 do them au gratin1 that is1 put them in a pie-dish or flat plated dish1 brown1 bread-crumb over1 add a little broth1 put into an oven1 and1 when very hot1 serve4 #dba4 ,veal ,cutlets 7old ,english method74--,see ,no4 #aeg4 #dbb4 ,veal ,cutlets aux ,fines ,herbes4--,cut from the neck the same as you would from mutton1 only of course larger2 sprinkle with salt1 pepper1 and chopped eschalot1 set them on a gridiron and broil like common chops1 serve plain1 or rub a little matre d'htel butter over them1 set in a hot place for a few moments1 and serve4 ,they may also be sautd1 by putting them into a saut-pan and saut until a nice color1 take them out and put in the pan a spoonful of chopped onions1 parsley1 and mushrooms 7if handy71 stir until done1 then add a teaspoonful of flour2 when it is a little brown1 add half a pint of water1 two spoonfuls of ,harvey's sauce and one of vinegar1 stir well round1 dish up the cutlets1 sauce over and serve4 ,they may also be larded like the fricandeau1 and served in the same way1 and with the like sauces1 only less time in cooking4 #dbc4 ,veal ,cutlets en papillote4--,prepare as the last1 and put them in a pie-dish and pour the sauce over1 and let them remain until cold2 then cut a sheet of foolscap paper in the shape of a heart1 and oil or butter it2 lay one of the cutlets with a little of the sauce on one half of the paper1 turn the other half over1 then turn and plait the edges of the paper over1 beginning at the top of the heart and finishing with an extra twist at the bottom1 which will cause the sauce to remain in it2 broil slowly on a gridiron for twenty minutes on a very slow fire1 or place it in the oven for that time1 and serve4 #dbd4 ,calf's ,ears stewed4--,if you make mock turtle with half a calf's head1 you may serve the ear2 after having boiled the head as for mock turtle1 cut out the ear 7it should weigh about half a pound71 lay it down on a board and make a few incisions through the thin gristly part about one inch long2 should it require a little more doing1 put it in the soup2 when done1 stand it on the dish in which you intend to serve it1 turn the top of the ear over outside1 so that it forms a round2 if any brain to spare1 put a piece in the centre1 sauce over when very hot with parsley and butter1 tomato1 or any sharp sauce1 and serve2 or1 instead of the brain1 veal stuffing or forcemeat may be used2 egg all over1 bread-crumb1 put in an oven until very hot and a nice yellow color1 dish and serve with plain gravy3 or it may be served with any sauce or ragout4 #dbe4 ,made ,dish from ,joints that have been previously served4--7,if from braised veal1 with vegetables47 ,cut it into slices about a quarter of an inch in thickness1 then put the remainder1 vegetables and gravy1 if any1 in a pan2 if not1 with water and a piece of glaze2 season with a little salt1 pepper1 sugar1 a bay-leaf1 and the juice of a quarter of a lemon1 simmer gently for twenty minutes on a slow fire1 dish the fillets in the form of a crown1 lay the vegetables in the middle1 pour gravy over1 and serve4 ,or1 what remains1 cut into very small dice1 leave none on the bones1 put in a pan1 shake a little flour over1 season with a little salt1 pepper1 sugar1 bay-leaf1 and the juice of a quarter of a lemon1 then moisten it with milk sufficient to make a sauce1 warm it for ten minutes1 add half an ounce of butter1 stir it well1 and serve very hot3 or1 if you prefer it brown1 leave out the milk and throw a few chopped mushrooms and eschalots in1 and moisten with a little water1 to which add a few drops of browning1 or a little catsup2 it ought never to be too thick4 ,poached eggs may be served with these4 #dbf4 ,calf's ,brains fried4--,prepare them as for calf's head2 cut them in pieces of about two inches square1 dip them into batter1 and fry them immersed in fat2 serve with fried parsley4 #dbg4 ,calf's ,brains la ,matre d',htel4--,prepare the brain as before1 warm six spoonfuls of melted butter2 when hot1 add one ounce of matre d'htel butter1 and1 when melted1 pour it over4 #dbh4 ,stewed ,calf's ,liver4--,choose a nice fat one rather white in color1 lard it through with bacon1 put one quarter of a pound of butter in a pan1 when melted add a tablespoonful of flour1 keep stirring until a nice yellow color1 then put in the whole of the liver1 turn round now and then until it is a little firm1 then add a pint of broth or water1 and a glass of any kind of wine1 a bouquet of parsley1 thyme1 bay-leaves1 a little salt1 pepper1 sugar1 and thirty button onions1 simmer one hour2 take the fat off and the bouquet out1 dish the liver with the onions around it1 reduce the sauce1 so that it adheres lightly to the back of the spoon1 sauce over1 and serve4 ,any vegetables may be used1 as carrots1 turnips1 peas1 haricots2 and if a little gelatine or isinglass is added to the sauce1 and the liver with the sauce only put into a round basin and pressed down and left until cold1 it will make a nice dish for supper1 lunch1 or breakfast4 ,if required to be re-warmed1 cut it into slices1 put it in a pan1 with a drop of water added to the gravy4 #dbi4 ,sheep's ,brains4--,proceed as for calf's brains3 these being smaller do not require so long to cook2 though very good1 they are not so delicate as calf's brains4 #dcj4 ,sheep's ,kidneys4--,for a small dish procure six fresh ones1 take off the thin skin which covers them1 and cut them into slices1 put in a saut-pan one ounce of butter1 when melted and nearly brown1 add the kidneys1 with half a teaspoonful of salt1 one quarter ditto of pepper1 half a tablespoonful of flour1 mix well together1 add half a wine-glass of sherry and a gill of broth1 simmer for a few minutes1 and serve very hot2 a nice crisp toast placed under them is an improvement2 also1 a few raw mushrooms1 cut in slices1 added when being sautd1 are excellent4 ,for broiled kidneys1 see ,breakfast4 ,they can also be cut in half and cooked the same1 and dished in a crown on a border of mashed potatoes4 #dca4 ,sheep's ,feet or ,trotters4--,previous to visiting the ,continent1 ,i had quite a dislike to the unfortunate ,pied de ,mouton1 whose blackish appearance in stall and basket seemed to be intended to satisfy the ravenous appetites of the gentlemen with the slouched hat4 ,but ,i must say since ,i have tasted them in ,france1 cooked la poulette1 ,i have become of quite another opinion1 and ,i have prepared them at home thus3-- ,i get a dozen of them from the tripe-butcher1 all cleaned and ready1 and beg of him to extract the long bone from them4 ,i put a quarter of a pound of beef or mutton suet in a stewpan1 with two onions and one carrot sliced1 two bay-leaves1 two sprigs of thyme1 one ounce of salt1 a quarter of an ounce of pepper1 put on the fire1 and cook five minutes2 add two tablespoonfuls of flour1 and stir it round2 add two quarts and a half of water1 then put in the feet1 stir till boiling1 simmer for nearly three hours1 or until the feet are perfectly tender1 when done1 take them out1 and lay on sieve1 take a quarter of a pound of fresh butter1 a teaspoonful of salt1 the same of flour1 a quarter of one of pepper1 a little grated nutmeg1 the juice of a lemon1 mix all these well together on a plate with the back of a spoon2 put the feet with a gill of milk in a stewpan on the fire1 when very hot1 put in the butter1 stir continually till melted1 having previously well mixed two yolks of eggs with five tablespoonfuls of milk or cream1 which put in the stewpan1 keep moving the pan round over the fire continually for one minute1 serve in a very hot dish with croutons of fried bread cut in triangular pieces round the dish4 ,the stock may be used for any pure or thick soup4 #dcb4 ,french ,ragout of ,mutton4--,take about two pounds of the scrag of the neck1 breast1 chump1 or any other part1 with as little fat as possible1 cut it into pieces of about two inches square1 put into a pan two ounces of butter1 or good fat1 when melted1 add two tablespoonfuls of flour1 stir with a wooden spoon till forming a brownish roux1 add the meat1 and stir it round for twenty minutes1 add a little water1 but not enough to cover the meat1 one saltspoonful of pepper1 four ditto of salt1 and four ditto of sugar1 a bouquet of six sprigs of parsley1 stir till boiling1 set it to simmer4 ,having previously peeled a few turnips1 cut in large dice of one inch square about thirty pieces1 put some fat in a frying-pan1 and fry the turnips until rather brown1 take them out1 and put them in a stewpan with the meat when it is done1 which will be in about one hour from the time it was put on2 when ready to serve1 take out the meat and turnips1 squeeze the bouquet1 which throw away1 skim off the fat1 if too thick1 add a little broth or water1 or1 if too thin1 boil it a little more1 dish it up by placing the pieces in a circle and the turnips in the centre1 sauce over1 and serve very hot--if not it is spoilt4 ,for those that like it1 a small piece of scraped garlic may be added4 ,onions1 carrots1 peas1 c41 may be used in place of the turnips4 ,this is a very favorite dish in ,france2 ,i learnt it from an old ,french migr1 who used to visit us about ten years since4 ,when ,i have company1 ,i use the chops of the neck1 dress them in a crown1 placing the vegetables in the centre2 ,i find them very much liked4 ,i have at some houses partaken of harico-mutton which has been tolerably good1 but nothing in flavor to this plan4 ,if there is any left1 it is good warmed again1 or even cold4 #dcc4 ,irish ,stew4--,cut up about two pounds of the neck of the mutton into small cutlets1 which put into a proper sized stewpan with some of the fat of the mutton1 season with three spoonfuls of salt1 half an ounce of pepper1 the same of sugar1 six middle-sized onions1 a quart of water2 set them to boil and simmer for half an hour1 then add six middling-sized potatoes1 cut them in halves or quarters1 stir it together1 and let it stew gently for about one hour longer2 if too fat remove it from the top1 but if well done the potatoes would absorb all1 and eat very delicate2 any other part of the mutton may be served in the same way4 ,i hope dearest----1 that you will not blame my apparent common taste in saying that ,i am fond of an ,irish stew4 ,i always recommend it to my friends2 ,i often add a bay-leaf to it1 which varies the flavor4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,xiii ,,dearest ,,eloise1--,i certainly here must avail myself of ,m4 ,soyer's kind permission by taking from his ',gastronomic ,regenerator' a very simple receipt1 it is true1 but one which1 in my estimation1 has a great deal more merit than that of a sumptuous dish--a new mutton chop2 yes1 dearest1 that is all4 ,many will very likely laugh at me1 and think ,i am joking to take notice of a dish of such trifling importance1 but1 indeed1 ,i assure you that ,i am far from that1 because ,i have tried it for my dinner to-day1 and in my opinion it is as far superior to the other as silver is to copper2 and it was only in an enlightened era of wonders like ours that such a novelty in the culinary department could have been produced2 where steam1 gas1 railways1 electric light1 suspended bridges1 which seem to fly like zephyrs across the bosom of our mighty1 wealthy1 old ,father ,thames1 and the subterranean promenade under his gutta-percha bed1 where1 as the ,french say1 the fishes from their windows make faces at the ,english while walking below1 as well as 7and more wonderful still7 the electric telegraph1 which1 even more freely than free-trade itself1 carries like lightning the flashes of the genius of a ,cobden from our great commercial town of ,manchester to ,printing-house square and various offices the sparks of a speech1 which1 if printers were careless1 might set the paper on fire1 by acquainting the metropolis not only of his love for freedom1 but of his enthusiastic action1 motion1 commotion1 and almost his thoughts2 even the cheerings of the convives are actually in print1 and read with the greatest anxiety by the multitude in town1 while the report of the last and most powerful line just put to press is still roaring with echo throughout the vast cupola of the ,free ,trade ,hall as well as in the ears of thousands of guests present who have been favored by partaking of the monster banquet2 and as well1 but not so wonderful1 the invention1 insurrection1 and demolition of the ,chartists--the last effected by special order and special constables2 the ,satanic bottle1 double sight1 and ethrienne suspension of the inimitable ,robert le ,diable1 by mistake called ,robert ,houdin2 ,banyard's ,yankee cabinet picture1 #cjjj miles long1 out of which #biii and three quarters are out of sight2 more so than all1 the discovery of rocky dust1 called gold1 in the barbarian land of ,california1 where the humble and convalescent potato would be worth its weight of the precious metal1 a loaf of bread three times as much1 and a basin of poor man's soup a guinea instead of a penny as here4 ,have we not also heard of the great sea serpent1 which a very serious ,american1 who appears to have been in company with him1 says that he was so tarnation long1 that whilst engaged in dining out upon #djjj or #ejjj turtles in ,honduras1 the end of his tail was at the same time hunting the white bear in the crystallized mountains of the ,north ,pole for his supper1 being something of an epicure1 and consequently fond of a change8 ,these1 dearest1 are ,,facts that no one can deny1 ,i guess2 and still it was to be among all these marvellous wonders that the innovation of a new mutton chop should emanate from the brain of a simple individual1 while1 for a century previous1 the ancestors of our great grandfathers were1 as we were till the present day1 often obliged to satisfy their voracious appetite with a fat and clumsy mutton chop4 ,even now1 dear1 you will hardly be able to comprehend the meaning of my enthusiasm for this simple innovation3 it is then for its great simplicity and cheapness1 and that if in general use 7as ,i sincerely hope it will be71 thousands will be able to partake of it and enjoy it1 and probably will keep a friendly remembrance of the name of its inventor1 because any one who invents1 or tries so to do1 attempts to conquer the greatest difficulty to obtain fame and wealth1 and which by others is always envied and tried to be surpassed2 such is the world4 ,while here1 the humble1 unassuming1 disinterested inventor of the said mutton chop will not even have the honor of opposition1 though he may be copied4 ,believe me1 dearest1 that is the only cause of my admiration4 ,now for this wonder4 ,illustration #dcd4 ,soyer's ,new ,mutton ,chop4--,trim a middling-sized saddle of mutton1 which cut into chops half an inch in thickness with a saw1 without at all making use of a knife 7the sawing them off jagging the meat and causing them to eat more tender71 then trim them to the shape represented in the drawing1 season well with salt and pepper1 place them upon a gridiron over a sharp fire1 turning them three or four times2 they would require ten minutes cooking2 when done1 dress them upon a hot dish1 spread a small piece of butter over each 7if approved of71 and serve3 by adding half a tablespoonful of ,soyer's ,gentlemen's or ,ladies' ,sauce to each chop when serving1 and turning it over two or three times1 produces an excellent entre2 the bone keeping the gravy in whilst cooking1 it is a very great advantage to have chops cut after the above method4 ,at home when ,i have a saddle of mutton1 ,i usually cut two or three such chops1 which ,i broil1 rub matre d'htel butter over1 and serve with fried potatoes round1 using the remainder of the saddle next day for a joint4 ,the above are also very excellent1 well seasoned and dipped into egg and bread-crumbs previous to broiling4 ,lamb chops may be cut precisely the same1 but require a few minutes less broiling4 ,you must remark that1 by this plan1 the fat and lean are better divided1 and you can enjoy both2 whilst the other is a lump of meat near the bone and fat at the other end1 which partly melts in cooking1 and is often burnt by the flame it makes2 the new one not being divided at the bone1 keeps the gravy in admirably4 ,if well sawed it should not weigh more than the ordinary one1 being about half the thickness4 ,do try them1 and let me know your opinion4 ,ever yours1 ,,hortense4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,xiv ,,dear ,,hortense1--,yours of last night was received at our supper-table1 which was surrounded by a few of our best friends1 and ,i need not tell you the merriment it has created respecting your fantastic ideas of this age of wonders4 ,a very sedate old gentleman1 who happened to have met you at ,mr4 ,h4's party about a week or two ago1 and wished to be very courteous to you1 and perhaps you did not notice his compliments1 not only would he not give a smile to our hearty laugh1 but actually swore that such comical nonsense was very dangerous to expose before the public1 and especially if we intended to give publicity to it with the ,receipts1 the last of which he very much approved of4 ,but respecting your fun on the review of our century1--,a woman1 said he1 ought never to interfere with politics6 ,politics6 we all exclaimed1 where do you see anything political in it8 ,in almost every word1 replied he4 ,but in what part8 said we2 explain yourself4 ,unfortunately our hero stuttered very much4 ,now1 it-it-it is not one of-of-of you here1 perhaps1 who-who-who a-a-a-ve been in ann-y-pu-pu-public office like me in ma-ma-my youth4 ,i was cla-cla-cla-clerk of the second cla-cla-clerk of the first cla-cla-cla-clerk of the private secretary's cla-cla-cla-clerk of the ,home of-of-of---- ,here1 dear1 we all burst out laughing1 which made the old gentleman so mad that he rushed from the room into the passage1 to the street-door1 and out of the house1 without his hat1 ,welsh wig1 great coat1 and umbrella1 while the servant had a regular race to get hold of him4 ,she at last found him talking to himself under one of our willow-trees in the garden1 coming back for his tackle with his two hands over his red wig1 and his thick head underneath4 ,being a wet night1 after inquiring of the servant what he had said to her--,ma-ma-ma-rie1 said he1 you are a ve-ve-ve-very good girl indeed1 very good girl1 and ,i-,i-,i-,i am ve-ve-ve-very sorry ,i have no money with me to gi-gi-gi-gi-give you something for your trouble1 especially as you will ne-ne-ne-never see me here again1 no1 ne-ne-never4 ,never mind1 sir1 about the money1 said she to him1 ,i am no more disappointed than usual4 ,good night1 sir4 ,mary1 you are a ve-ve-very sau-saucy huzzy1 a ve-very saucy huzzy1 was his answer4 ,he then gradually disappeared in the fog4 ,in a few seconds after1 she heard some one sneezing most fearfully in the direction he was gone1 which she believed to be our stuttering friend4 ,so1 you see1 dear1 there is quite an event on a mutton chop4 ,but let me tell you that1 though your receipt came rather late1 we still had some for supper1 and very good they were2 every one was delighted with them2 in fact1 we did not eat hardly anything else1 being so comically introduced to us4 ,i had them brought up at three different times broiling hot from the gridiron4 ,i made twelve chops out of a middle-sized saddle of mutton1 weighing about seven pounds3 is that right8 and ,i have about three pounds of chump remaining1 which1 of course1 ,i intend making broth1 ,irish stew1 or pies with4 ,but1 dearest1 let us go through the remainder of the ,receipts without any more interruption4 ,my husband begs to be kindly remembered to you both4 ,ever yours1 ,,eloise4 ,illustration #dce4 ,mutton ,cutlets4--,trim a neck of mutton by cutting away the scrag and sawing off three inches of the rib-bone1 then cut about ten cutlets out of the neck1 shape them by chopping off the thick part of the chine-bone1 beat them flat to about a quarter of an inch in thickness with a cutlet-chopper1 dipped in cold water1 detach an inch of fat from the top of the rib-bone1 and trim it like the following cut1 season with a little salt and pepper1 then well beat up one egg1 dip a brush into it1 and rub it lightly over the chop1 dip it into bread-crumbs1 form it into shape again1 and dress in the following ways3-- ,put two ounces of butter into a saut-pan or very clean omelette-pan1 melt it1 and put the cutlets in2 put it on the fire for five minutes till it is of a nice yellow color2 turn them1 let them remain four minutes longer1 try if they are done by pressing with the finger1 they ought to be firm and full of gravy2 lay them on a clean cloth1 and dress them in the form of a crown1 that is1 by keeping the thick part at the bottom1 and the scraped part of the bone at the top1 and each one resting half-way on the other4 ,every dish of cutlets must be served thus4 #dcf4 ,cutlets with ,mushrooms4--,if for ten or twelve cutlets take about twenty fresh mushrooms1 cut off the tails1 wash them1 and dry on a cloth1 put two pats of butter in a stewpan1 half a gill of water1 the juice of a lemon1 a little salt and pepper1 set on the fire2 boil for a few minutes1 then add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce1 when very hot add a liaison of the yolk of an egg made as follows3 ,put the yolk in a cup1 and mix well with two tablespoonfuls of milk1 stir well for one minute1 put it in the middle of your pan1 if no white sauce1 add a little milk to the mushrooms1 and mix a little flour with half a pat of butter1 and put it in1 keep stirring until boiling2 dish up the cutlets1 add the liaison1 and serve2 or still plainer1 take the same number of mushrooms1 wash well1 cut in thin slices1 put into a stewpan1 with two pats of butter1 half a teaspoonful of flour1 a little salt and pepper1 the juice of a lemon1 and a little water2 stew gently for ten minutes1 serve1 pouring the sauce over1 or in the middle of the cutlets4 ,they can be served as cutlets la jardinire1 with peas1 with tomatoes1 with artichokes1 with spinach1 la poiverade1 la sauce piquante1 with ,brussels sprouts1 and la ,soubise4 #dcg4 ,cutlets la ,matre d',htel4--,when the cutlets are done1 dish them up1 put two ounces of matre d'htel butter in a clean saut-pan1 keep it moving until melted3 put two spoonfuls of cream when very hot1 pour over1 and serve with fried potatoes in the middle4 #dch4 ,cutlets1 plainer way4--,cut them from the neck1 beat them down roughly without trimming1 put them on the gridiron1 when warm through1 add salt1 pepper1 and very fine chopped onions1 turn several times1 they will take about ten minutes broiling2 dish very hot1 and serve4 ,they may also be served on very white mashed potatoes4 #dci4 ,sheep's ,tongue1 ,demi-,glaze4--,for one dish1 take six1 put them in water to disgorge1 then dry them1 put them in a stewpan with two onions1 half a large carrot1 a bouquet of two bay-leaves1 one sprig of thyme1 a quart of broth if handy1 or water1 half a spoonful of salt1 put them on to boil1 and simmer for two hours till done2 try if tender with a pointed knife1 if so take them out1 skin them1 trim out all the roots1 cut the tongue in two1 lengthwise1 giving it a little of the shape of cutlets1 skim the fat from the stock1 reduce the whole or part to a demi-glaze1 put your pieces on a dish1 when ready to serve1 make a thin roll of mashed potatoes1 and dish them round it1 add a little sugar to the demi-glaze1 and a small piece of butter1 stir round till melted1 add the juice of half a lemon1 pour boiling hot over the tongue1 the sauce ought to adhere thickly to the back of the spoon4 ,observe1 dear1 how cheaply this dish may be procured1 and ,i assure you it is very excellent3 ,i have tried it with almost all the sauces ,i have described for cutlets1 and have found it good with all2 they are also very good in papillote1 like veal cutlets4 #ddj4 ,sheep's ,hearts4--,proceed exactly as with the calf's heart1 only diminish the time of cooking in proportion to the size1 about thirty minutes will be sufficient2 serve with any kind of sharp sauce1 or any ragout of vegetables4 ,,dishes ,,with ,,the ,,remains ,,of ,,lamb4 #dda4 ,mince ,lamb4--7,see ,veal47 ,serve with poached eggs over4 #ddb4 ,remains of roast or boiled ,lamb with ,peas4--,cut up about two pounds1 bones included1 in rather small pieces1 put into a convenient-sized stewpan1 add to it two teaspoonfuls of flour1 one of chopped onions1 one of salt1 a quarter ditto of pepper1 half a pint of water1 stir gently until near boiling1 add one bay-leaf1 and one pint of very green peas already boiled1 simmer and serve4 ,half an hour is sufficient to prepare this dish2 peas left from a previous day can be used1 also cauliflower if not too much broken1 and gently simmered1 also a few mushrooms1 or if no vegetables1 add a little liaison1 and the juice of half a lemon4 #ddc4 ,lamb's ,feet are much more delicate than sheep's trotters1 but they are cooked and dressed the same1 only in less time4 ,if there are any left cold1 cut them in two1 put them in a basin1 pour over a glass of vinegar1 half of ditto of oil1 one onion sliced1 salt1 pepper1 fry them for twenty minutes1 dip each piece in a batter1 and fry a nice yellow color in fat2 serve on a napkin4 #ddd4 ,lamb's ,heart4--,six will make a nice dish2 stuff like calf's heart1 only adding to it some bits of ham or red tongue2 stew and serve with any kind of sauce4 #dde4 ,lamb ,cutlets4--,ten cutlets would be sufficient for a dish1 and might be cut from one neck1 as described for mutton cutlets 7page #ahb71 but leaving them as large as possible2 that is1 about one third less than the mutton1 season them lightly with salt and pepper1 egg and bread-crumb them over1 afterwards beating them gently with a knife1 to put them again into shape2 then have a little clarified butter upon a plate1 into which dip each cutlet separately1 afterwards throwing them into bread-crumbs1 giving them another coat1 and beat again4 ,then if wanted of a very nice color1 put four spoonfuls of salad oil into a saut-pan1 lay in the cutlets and set them over a sharp fire1 turning when required1 six or eight minutes would be sufficient to do them nicely2 when done1 lay them upon a cloth a moment to drain1 glaze1 and dish them in crown upon your dish1 and serve with cucumbers stewed in the centre4 ,lamb cutlets may also be served with stewed peas1 ,french beans1 spinach1 asparagus points1 sauce jardinire1 reforme1 poiverade1 piquante1 or matre d'htel1 which will be found in the series of sauces1 or lamb cutlets may be broiled instead of fried1 or served la ,maintenon1 as directed for veal cutlets4 #ddf4 ,lamb ,chops4--,select a fine loin of lamb with the kidney in it1 trim off the flap1 and with a very sharp knife cut your chops from half to three quarters of an inch in thickness1 cutting about eight chops from the loin1 three of which should have a piece of the kidney attached4 ,i also cut two chops from the chump1 which are very excellent eating1 although clumsier in shape4 ,lay three of them upon a gridiron over a rather brisk but very clear fire1 for if smoky it would entirely spoil the look and flavor of the lamb2 and when just warmed through1 season upon each side with a teaspoonful of salt1 and a quarter of that quantity of pepper2 broil of a nice yellow color1 and serve with fried parsley over if convenient4 ,or lay some nice mashed potatoes upon your dish1 and serve the chops upon it4 #ddg4 ,lamb ,chops in paper1 with fine herbs4--,cut a piece of foolscap paper in the shape of a heart 7and sufficiently large to fold a lamb chop in71 rub a little oil over the paper1 then season the chop with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots1 one of chopped parsley1 a little pepper1 salt1 and grated nutmeg1 wrap the chop in the paper1 which plait down at the edges1 lay it upon a gridiron over a slow fire1 turning it frequently2 it will take about twenty minutes to broil properly1 when done serve in the paper very hot4 #ddh4 ,lamb ,chop saut4--,put a piece of butter into a clean saut- or frying-pan1 and when melted lay in a chop rather highly seasoned with pepper and salt2 fry it until thoroughly done and but lightly browned1 and serve4 ,should gravy be required1 pour off the greater part of the fat1 and then stir in half a tablespoonful of flour1 add a gill of broth or water1 and a little coloring2 stir with a wooden spoon1 boiling five minutes1 finish with an ounce of fresh butter and the juice of half a lemon2 shake the pan over the fire until the sauce becomes rather thick1 when pour over and serve4 #ddi4 ,pork ,cutlets4--,choose a small neck1 cut eight cutlets out of it of the same shape as the mutton1 only leaving a little more fat on it1 season1 egg and bread-crumb1 fry in pan1 serve with either sauces ,robert1 poiverade1 piquante1 tartare4 #dej4 ,pork ,cutlets with ,pickle4--,saut1 broil or fry1 the chops1 as in the preceding2 make about a gill of melted butter1 add to it two tablespoonfuls of liquor of piccalilly1 and six or eight pieces of the pickle cut small2 when very hot put on your dish1 and dress your cutlets over1 or if for a large dish1 dress cutlets in a crown1 and sauce in the middle4 #dea4 ,pork ,cutlets saut4--,cut six or eight good-sized cutlets from the neck of the same shape as the mutton1 lay them in a buttered saut-pan1 season well with pepper and salt1 place over the fire2 when done lay them upon a plate1 pour some of the fat from the saut-pan1 add a good tablespoonful of chopped onions1 pass over the fire a minute1 then add a teaspoonful of flour2 moisten with half a pint of broth or water1 with a piece of glaze added1 season a little more1 add a bay-leaf and a teaspoonful of vinegar1 with one of mustard1 mix well1 lay in the cutlets until quite hot1 when dress upon a dish1 sauce over1 and serve4 ,this sauce is good with any kind of cutlets1 but especially pork4 #deb4 ,pork ,cutlets aux ,cornichons4--,cut six or eight cutlets from a middling-sized neck of pork1 season well with pepper and salt1 dip in eggs well beaten upon a plate1 and then into grated crust of bread 7not too brown7 put two ounces of lard or butter into a saut- or frying-pan1 lay in the cutlets and fry very slowly2 when done place them upon a dish2 keep hot1 pour some of the fat from the pan1 add a good teaspoonful of flour1 mix well1 moisten with half a pint of broth or water with a piece of glaze1 add half a wineglassful of vinegar1 a little salt1 pepper1 and six gherkins in slices1 place the cutlets in the pan to warm gently in the sauce1 then dress them upon a dish1 sauce over1 and serve4 #dec4 ,pork ,cutlets sauce demi-,robert4--,cut eight cutlets from a neck as before1 season well with pepper and salt1 sprinkle chopped onions and parsley over upon both sides1 beating the cutlets lightly to make them adhere1 then dip them into eggs well beaten upon a plate1 and then into bread-crumbs2 pat them lightly1 have some clarified butter in a stewpan1 into which dip the cutlets1 and again into bread-crumbs1 well covering them1 place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire1 broiling a nice light brown color2 when done dress them upon a dish2 have ready the following sauce3 cut two large onions into very small dice1 put them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter1 fry of a light yellow color1 add a teaspoonful of flour1 mix well1 moisten with half a pint of broth and a spoonful of vinegar1 season well1 let boil1 skim and reduce until rather thick1 when add a spoonful of mixed mustard1 a little coloring2 sauce in the centre of the cutlets and serve4 #ded4 ,excellent ,sausage ,cakes4--,chop some lean pork very fine1 having previously detached all the skin and bone1 and to every pound of meat add three quarters of a pound of fat bacon1 half an ounce of salt1 a saltspoonful of pepper1 the quarter of a nutmeg grated1 six young green chopped onions1 and a little chopped parsley2 when the whole is well chopped put into a mortar and pound well1 finishing with three eggs2 then have ready a pig's caul1 which cut into pieces large enough to fold a piece of the above preparation the size of an egg1 which wrap up1 keeping the shape of an egg1 but rather flattened1 and broil very gently over a moderate fire4 #dee4 ,pigs' ,feet4--,procure six pigs' feet nicely salted1 which boil in water1 to which you have added a few vegetables1 until well done1 cut each one in halves1 take out the long bone1 have some sausage-meat as in the last1 and a pig's caul1 which cut into pieces each large enough to fold half a foot1 well surrounded with sausage-meat1 when well wrapped up broil slowly half an hour over a moderate fire1 and serve4 ,or1 when the pig's feet are well boiled1 egg over1 and throw them into some grated crust of bread1 with which you have mixed a little parsley1 broil a nice color and serve with a little plain gravy4 ,this is called la ,ste4 ,menhould4 #def4 ,pig's ,kidneys4--,cut them open lengthwise1 season well with pepper and salt1 egg over with a paste-brush1 dip into bread-crumbs1 with which you have mixed some chopped parsley and eschalot1 run a skewer through to keep them open1 and broil for about a quarter of an hour over a good fire2 when done place them upon a dish1 have ready an ounce of butter1 with which you have mixed the juice of a lemon1 a little pepper and salt1 and a teaspoonful of ,french or common mustard1 place a piece upon each of the kidneys1 place in the oven for one minute1 and serve4 ,pig's kidneys may also be sautd as directed for ox kidneys4 #deg4 ,hashed ,pork4--,put two spoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan with a wineglassful of vinegar1 two cloves1 a blade of mace1 and a bay-leaf1 reduce to half1 take out the spice and bay-leaf1 add half a pint of broth or water1 cut some pork previously cooked into thin small slices1 season well upon a dish with pepper and salt1 shake a good teaspoonful of flour over1 mix all together1 and put into the stewpan2 let simmer gently ten minutes1 pour out upon your dish1 and serve with slices of gherkins in it2 a little mustard may be added if approved of1 or a little piccalilly with the vinegar is excellent4 ,the remains of salt pork1 though very palatable cold1 if required hot may be cut into large thin slices1 and placed in a buttered saut- or frying-pan1 with a little broth1 or merely fried in the butter1 and served with a pure of winter peas1 made by boiling half a pint of peas until tender 7tied up in a cloth72 when done put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter2 season with pepper and salt1 add a gill of milk or cream1 pour into the dish1 and dress the pork over4 ,it may also be cut into thin slices and put into a soup plate1 and pour some catsup or ,harvey sauce over it1 and let it remain for half an hour2 butter the inside of a pudding basin1 and lay some of the remains of peas pudding round it1 and then place in the pork1 cover it with some of the pudding1 place it in a saucepan with a little water to get hot for about half an hour1 and then turn it out and serve4 ,should you not have quite pork enough1 you may make it up with a little sausage-meat1 or any other kind of meat4 #deh4 ,fritadella 7twenty receipts in one74--,put half a pound of crumb of bread to soak in a pint of cold water1 take the same quantity of any kind of roast or boiled meat1 with a little fat1 chop it up like sausage meat1 then put your bread in a clean cloth1 press it to extract all the water1 put into a stewpan two ounces of butter1 a tablespoonful of chopped onions1 fry for two minutes1 then add the bread1 stir with a wooden spoon until rather dry1 then add the meat1 season with a teaspoonful of salt1 half the same of pepper1 a little grated nutmeg1 the same of lemon peel1 stir continually until very hot2 then add two eggs1 one at a time1 well mix together1 and pour on a dish to get cold4 ,then take a piece as big as a small egg1 and roll it to the same shape1 flatten it a little1 egg and bread-crumb over1 keeping the shape1 do all of it the same way1 then put into a saut-pan a quarter of a pound of lard1 or clean fat1 or oil2 when hot1 but not too much so1 put in the pieces1 and saut a very nice yellow color1 and serve very hot1 plain1 on a napkin1 or on a border of mashed potatoes1 with any sauce or garniture you fancy4 ,these can be made with the remains of any kind of meat1 poultry1 game1 fish1 and even vegetables2 hard eggs or cold mashed potatoes may be introduced in small quantities1 and may be fried instead of sautd1 in which case put about two pounds of fat in the frying-pan1 and if care is used it will do several times4 ,this is an entirely new and very economical and palatable dish1 and fit for all seasons1 and if once tried would be often repeated2 the only expense attending it is the purchase of a small wire sieve for the bread-crumbs4 ,the reason ,i call it twenty receipts in one is1 that all kinds of food may be used for it1 even shrimps1 oysters1 and lobsters4 #dei4 ,ramifolle4--,these are a little more expensive than the fritadella1 and worthy the table of a crowned head4 ,the flesh of fowls instead of lamb or veal1 with the addition of one or two fat livers cut in dice4 ,proceed as in the former receipt1 using the crumb of ,french rolls1 and one or two truffles chopped fine3 then make some pancake batter1 and saut two pancakes about one eighth of an inch thick1 cover one with the meat1 c41 and lay the other over1 and put by until cold2 when so cut them to any shape you like1 but if like cutlets add the small bone of fowl or pigeon1 or the stalk of a sprig of parsley1 egg and bread-crumb them1 and saut them in oil or lard of a nice yellow color1 and dish them like cutlets1 with any of the sauces or garnitures described for mutton cutlets2 or if plain1 with fried parsley4 ,they may be made of any kind of meat1 fish1 or poultry4 ,i have latterly had them sent up to table when we have had a few friends1 and they have been very much liked2 and1 on inquiring the name1 ,i baptized them ,ramifolle1 without any particular meaning1 which name having pleased as much as the dish1 therefore let them be called ,ramifolles4 ,they may be made a plainer way with various meats or liver1 and spread over one pancake1 which roll over1 and when cold cut it into three equal lengths1 egg1 bread-crumb1 and saut as above4 #dfj4 ,prussian ,cutlets4--,take a piece of veal1 say one pound1 from any part of the calf1 as long as you extract the nerve1 with a little fat1 chop it up1 but not too fine1 add to it two teaspoonfuls of chopped eschalot1 one of salt1 half a one of pepper1 little grated nutmeg1 chop it a little more1 and make it into pieces of the size of two walnuts1 which give the shape of a cutlet2 egg and bread-crumb each1 keeping the shape2 insert a small bone at the small end1 saut in fat1 oil1 lard1 or butter1 give it ten minutes on a slow fire till a nice brown color1 dish and serve1 with demi-glaze sauce1 in which you have put a spoonful of ,harvey's1 and serve with any brown or white sauce or stewed vegetables you like4 ,any kind of meat may be used4 #dfa4 ,cutlets la ,victime1 or ,victimized ,cutlets4--,here1 ma belle amie1 is a terrific title for a receipt but do not fear it1 as the time of the ,inquisition is past1 and you are not likely to become one in partaking of it4 ,i do not recommend it to you on the score of economy1 as it is the tip-top of extravagance2 but forward it as a curiosity1 and also in case similar circumstances should happen which caused its invention1 which1 you must know1 was done by a culinary artist of ,louis ,,xviii4 of ,france1 at the palace of the ,tuileries1 and first partaken of by this intellectual monarch and gourmet1 who1 at the end of his stormy reign1 through a serious illness1 was completely paralyzed1 and1 at the same time1 the functionary organs of digestion were much out of order2 being also a man of great corpulence1 and a great admirer of the festive board1 much food was required to satisfy his royal appetite2 and the difficulty which his physicians experienced was to supply his want of food in the smallest compass4 ,the head-cook1 on being consulted1 begged a few hours' reflection before he could give an answer to so important a question1 as nothing but mutton entirely deprived of fat was to compose his ,majesty's meal4 ,after profound study by the chief and his satellites1 a voice was heard from the larder1 which was a considerable distance from the kitchen1 crying1 ,i have found it1 ,i have found it4 ,it was a young man of the name of ,alphonse ,pottier1 who1 in saying so1 made his appearance in the kitchen with three beautiful mutton cutlets1 tastefully trimmed and tied together2 he then1 with a small skewer1 fastened them to a spit1 and placed them1 to the astonishment of all present1 close to the bars of the grate3 two of the cutlets soon got brown 7observe1 not a word was to be said until the trial was made71 from brown they soon turned black3 every one gazed at each other in astonishment whilst ,pottier1 with quite a composed countenance1 terminated his scientific experiment1 took them off the spit1 drew the skewer out1 cut the string1 threw the two burnt cutlets away1 and merely served the middle one1 which seems to have received all the nutriment of the other two2 it was served and greatly approved of by the physicians1 as well as by the gourmet potentate1 who in consequence of two being sacrificed for one1 named it ',cutlet la ,victime1' and often afterwards used to partake of them when in the enjoyment of health4 ,cut three cutlets from the neck of mutton1 about half an inch thick1 trim one very nicely1 free from fat1 leave the other two as cut off1 put the trimmed one between the two1 flatten them together1 so that the fat of the outside ones meet over the middle one2 tie them together thus1 and broil over a very strong fire for ten minutes2 remove it from the fire1 cut the string1 and dish up the middle one only on a very hot dish1 with a little salt sprinkled over it4 ,if wanted roasted1 proceed as above4 #dfb4 ,roast and ,braised ,chicken1 for ,entres4--,have a chicken trussed for boiling2 put it on a spit1 envelop it as for turkey 7,no4 #ceh71 roast half the time or little less1 depending on the fire and the size of the chicken2 when done1 remove it from the spit1 and take off the envelope1 and serve with any of the following garniture3--jardinire1 green peas1 oysters1 cucumbers1 ,jerusalem artichokes1 white mushroom sauce1 ragout of quenelles1 juice of tarragon 7,no4 #cfc71 ,dutch sauce1 with a few heads of cauliflower well boiled1 and cut small4 #dfc4 ,braised ,chicken4--,if not convenient to roast1 put a little bacon in a stewpan1 then a chicken1 a large onion1 half a carrot1 half a head of celery1 two bay-leaves1 two cloves1 one peppercorn1 one and a half tablespoonfuls of salt1 a little pepper1 a bouquet garni1 and a quart of water1 let simmer till tender2 dish up1 after having well drained it1 take the string off1 pour any of the above sauces over or under them2 when the chicken is done1 you can make1 with the addition of a little more water1 a very good pure1 and even sauces1 and by adding some trimmings of beef1 veal1 lamb1 or mutton1 it will make a first-rate clear broth1 after being clarified giving it a proper color4 #dfd4 ,chicken plain boiled4--,put two quarts of water into a stewpan1 on the fire1 or two ounces of butter1 and a tablespoonful of salt and a few vegetables2 when boiling1 rub the breast of the chicken with half a lemon1 and put it in to simmer from a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes2 if a large fowl1 increase the quantity of water1 and boil longer2 sauce over with parsley and butter1 or celery sauce1 or any of the above3 use the broth4 ,the remains of any of the above1 or of turkey1 capon1 guinea-fowl1 or other poultry1 may be dressed as hash1 by cutting them into neat pieces2 put them into a stewpan1 put to it half a tablespoonful of salt1 one of flour1 half a one of chopped onions1 ditto of parsley1 a bay-leaf1 half a pint of water1 a few drops of coloring2 set to simmer for twenty minutes1 and serve2 the addition of a few mushrooms is excellent4 #dfe4 ,poultry en ,capilotade4--,put with the pieces of fowl a tablespoonful of oil1 and one glass of sherry1 into a pan1 and proceed as above2 when ready to serve1 chop a few gherkins1 and put in4 #dff4 ,indian ,hash ,fowl4--,make a pint of sauce 7p4 #gj71 warm1 put into it your pieces of fowl1 and serve with rice plain-boiled4 #dfg4 ,fried ,fowl4--,when you have cut the pieces as before1 put them into a basin with a little salt1 pepper1 a spoonful of oil1 and two of vinegar1 and a little chopped eschalot1 stir them well in it1 and let remain for half an hour1 have ready a quantity of batter1 and take a fork and dip each piece one after the other into it1 and then let it drop into the frying-pan1 in which is sufficient hot fat to cover them2 fry a nice color1 and serve in a pyramid1 with fried parsley over1 or any sauce you like under4 #dfh4 ,blanquette of ,fowl4--,put half a pint of white sauce in a stewpan1 with six tablespoonfuls of broth or milk1 let it boil1 having cut up about a pound of the remains of any kind of poultry1 put it in the sauce1 warm it1 and add two spoonfuls of liaison to it2 season with a little salt1 pepper1 the juice of half a lemon1 stir it1 and serve4 ,do not let it boil1 or it will curdle1 and be unsightly and unpalatable2 a little cooked ham or tongue are good in it1 also oysters1 and served with bread sippets round4 ,a little chopped parsley sprinkled over it makes it look very inviting4 #dfi4 ,minced ,fowl4--,cut the remains into small dice1 with a little ham or tongue1 add thick white sauce1 season mildly2 it can be served with poached eggs over4 #dgj4 ,saut of ,fowl4--,see the article ,saut1 which is applicable to all kinds of poultry2 if the fowl be old1 it should be previously stewed4 #dga4 ,broiled ,fowl1 with ,sauce4--,have a fowl ready plucked and drawn1 open the back from one end to the other with a sharp knife1 having previously cut the feet off at the second joint1 make an incision in the skin1 and pass the bone through to fix it internally2 lay the fowl on the table1 breast down1 beat it as flat as possible with a chopper1 take out the breast-bone1 and also the rough part of the interior of the back1 especially if a large or old fowl2 after you have it in a nice shape1 season all over with a teaspoonful of salt and half one of pepper1 put it on a gridiron1 over a slow fire1 turning it every five minutes until done2 if a young one1 twenty-five minutes ought to do it well2 but by trying with the finger on the thick part1 it will easily be known by even an inexperienced hand1 if firm under the finger1 it is done1 or by pressing the wing1 and if tender1 it is also done2 put on dish1 and pour over a brown mushroom sauce1 or the following3 put two spoonfuls of ,chili vinegar1 two of ,harvey's sauce1 two of catsup1 one of chopped eschalot1 ten of plain melted butter1 put in a stewpan and boil for twenty minutes2 skim and serve under or over4 #dgb4 ,another way4--,when the fowl is ready for broiling1 put four tablespoonfuls of oil or fat1 or one ounce of butter1 into a saut-pan1 lay in the fowl1 and saut it gently until a nice yellow color1 and then broil as above2 or egg and bread-crumb it over1 melting a little butter1 and drop a little now and then when on the fire1 and with care it will be gold color2 serve with either sharp1 mushroom1 tomato1 or poivrade sauce on4 #dgc4 ,a la ,tartare4--,by making about half a pint of the above sauce1 and ornament an oval dish by placing on the border cut gherkins1 beet-root1 olives1 place the sauce on it1 and lay the fowl very hot over it2 thus the fowl is hot and the sauce cold1 but together very good4 #dgd4 ,croquettes of ,fowl4--,take the lean of the remains of a fowl from a previous dinner1 and chop it up in small pieces1 then put into a stewpan a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots with half an ounce of butter1 pass them for about three minutes over the fire1 add a teaspoonful of flour1 mix well1 then add the fowl1 and a gill of white sauce1 or more if not sufficiently moist2 season with pepper1 salt1 and sugar2 then stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly1 stir it a little longer on the fire1 and turn it out on a dish to cool2 when cold1 take twelve pieces1 each of the size of a walnut1 roll them out an inch and a half in length1 and bread-crumb thrice over2 fry a good color1 dress them on a napkin1 or a border of mashed potatoes4 ,every kind of remains of game1 meat1 poultry1 and fish1 may be made the same way3 if no sauce1 add a little more flour1 and use milk or broth4 #dge4 ,fricasse of ,fowl4--,divide a fowl into eight pieces1 wash it well1 put the pieces into a stewpan1 and cover with boiling water1 season with a teaspoonful of salt1 a little pepper1 a good bouquet of parsley1 four cloves1 and a blade of mace1 let it boil twenty minutes1 pass the stock through a sieve into a basin2 take out the pieces of fowl1 trim nicely1 then put into another stewpan two ounces of butter1 with which mix a good spoonful of flour1 moisten with stock1 put in the pieces of fowl1 stir occasionally until boiling1 skim well1 add twenty button onions1 let simmer until the onions are tender1 when add a gill of cream1 with which you have mixed the yolks of two eggs1 stir in quickly over the fire1 but do not let it boil2 take out the pieces1 dress in pyramid upon the dish1 and serve4 ,if you require to warm up the remainder of the above1 put it into a basin1 which stand in a stewpan in which you have placed a little water1 put the cover over1 and let it boil gently1 by which means the contents of the basin will get warm without turning the sauce2 when hot1 dish up and serve4 ,the same plan ought to be adopted to warm up any remains of dishes in which a liaison has been introduced2 it prevents its turning1 which is unavoidable in any other way4 #dgf4 ,fowl ,saut4--,pluck and draw a fowl1 cut it into pieces1 seven or eight1 as you like1 that is1 the two ,french wings1 the two legs1 the breast in one or two pieces1 and the back in two2 trim nicely1 put into a saut-pan two ounces of butter1 put it on the fire2 when hot1 lay in your pieces1 add a teaspoonful of salt1 a quarter ditto of pepper1 saut gently1 turn over2 when of a nice gold color and tender1 pour the fat of the pan1 add a glass of sherry and ten spoonfuls of brown sauce1 boil ten minutes longer but very slowly1 and serve in pyramid2 sauce over4 ,this done in oil1 with the addition of twenty mushrooms and a little garlic1 is the celebrated dish of poulet la ,marengo4 #dgg4 ,the ,same1 a plainer way4--,when prepared and cooked as above1 instead of the sauce1 which may not be handy1 add a spoonful of flour1 which dredge over till it is well mixed1 then add half a pint of boiling water1 a few drops of coloring or some mushroom-catsup1 two teaspoonfuls of salt and a half of pepper1 add a bouquet of parsley1 let it simmer for twenty minutes1 skim1 taste if your sauce is well seasoned1 dish your fowl1 reduce your sauce until adhering to the back of the spoon1 add the juice of half a lemon1 and serve4 ,a few mushrooms or ,english truffles may be added to it1 which is a great improvement2 the color of the sauce ought to be brownish2 take out the bouquet which you have previously squeezed4 #dgh4 ,saut of ,fowl with ,vegetables4--,proceed exactly as above1 only omitting the wine1 add to the sauce fifty heads of young green scallions1 or some small pieces of carrot and turnip1 or a pint of green peas1 or cucumbers cut in nice pieces1 stew till tender1 add a spoonful of powdered sugar1 dish the fowl1 skim the sauce1 take out the parsley2 when your sauce is thickish and of a nice color1 pour over the fowl1 and serve very hot4 #dgi4 ,blanquettes of ,turkey4--,cut off the flesh from the remainder of a roast or boiled turkey into as large slices as possible1 then break up the bones1 which put into a stewpan1 with a little lean bacon and an onion1 and a small bouquet of parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaf1 just cover them with water1 and boil gently for three quarters of an hour1 skim1 and pass the stock through a cloth1 and with it make a little white sauce as directed1 then put the meat into another stewpan1 lightly seasoned with a little pepper1 salt1 and grated nutmeg2 just cover it with some of the sauce1 and warm it gradually1 not1 however1 permitting it to boil2 when very hot1 stir in three tablespoonfuls of cream1 with which you have mixed the yolk of an egg1 and when beginning to thicken1 dress it upon a dish with toasted or fried sippets of bread around1 cucumbers cut and dressed as directed p4 #fg1 and added to the blanquette are a very great improvement1 as are likewise button mushrooms or a few slices of cooked ham or tongue4 ,for a blanquette of fowl proceed precisely the same4 #dhj4 ,boudins of ,fowl or ,turkey4--,cut up the remains of a turkey or fowls into very small dice1 with a quarter of a pound of lean cooked ham to each pound of meat1 make a stock with the bones as directed in the last2 put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots into a stewpan1 with a piece of butter of the size of a walnut1 which stir over the fire until the eschalots become a little yellowish1 when stir in a good tablespoonful of flour1 add the meat and about a pint of the stock1 let boil gently a few minutes1 season with a little pepper1 salt1 and sugar1 stir the yolks of two eggs in quickly1 and pour it out upon a dish until cold1 when divide it into pieces of the size of eggs1 which rub into long pieces of the shape and size of flat sausages1 which egg and bread-crumb twice over1 and fry of a nice brown color in hot fat or dripping1 drain upon a cloth1 and serve very hot4 #dha4 ,turban of ,croquettes l',epigramme4--,croquettes are made from the same preparation as the last1 but made up into small pieces1 two inches in length and the thickness of your finger2 egg1 bread-crumb1 and fry the same1 dress in a circle upon a border of mashed potatoes1 and serve with some blanquette of turkey or fowl in the centre4 #dhb4 ,hashed ,goose4--,put a spoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan with an ounce of butter1 which fry over the fire until becoming rather browned1 then stir a tablespoonful of flour1 put in the remains of a goose1 cut into neat pieces1 and well seasoned with pepper and salt2 add a pint of stock1 let the whole simmer about ten minutes1 and it is ready to serve4 ,a little apple sauce may be served separately in a boat1 or a couple of apples sliced1 a few leaves of bruised dried sage may be stewed with the hash4 #dhc4 ,stewed ,duck with ,peas4--,truss a duck with the legs turned inside1 which put into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon1 cut into small dice1 set the stewpan over a moderate fire1 occasionally stirring its contents until it becomes lightly browned1 then add a good teaspoonful of flour1 and when well mixed1 a pint of stock or water1 stir occasionally until boiling1 when add twenty button onions and a bunch of parsley with a bay-leaf2 let the whole simmer a quarter of an hour1 keeping it well skimmed1 then add a quart of young peas1 and simmer half an hour longer1 or until the peas are quite tender1 when take out the duck1 draw out the string1 and dress it upon your dish2 remove the parsley and bay-leaf1 season the peas and sauce with a little pepper1 salt1 and sugar1 pour over the duck and serve4 #dhd4 ,stewed ,duck with ,turnips4--,proceed as in the last1 but1 instead of peas1 use about forty pieces of good turnips1 cut into moderately-sized squares1 and previously fried1 of a yellowish color1 in a little lard or butter1 dress the duck upon your dish1 season the turnips and sauce with a little salt1 pepper and sugar1 and reduce it until thickish1 not however to break the turnips2 sauce over1 and serve4 ,the remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may be hashed as directed for goose1 but the sage and apple should in all cases be omitted2 for variety1 should peas be in season1 a pint freshly boiled may be mixed with the hash at the time of serving4 #dhe4 ,fowl ,saut in ,oil4--,cut a fowl into eight pieces1 that is1 the two wings1 two legs1 two pieces of the breast1 and two of the back1 which put into a stewpan1 with three tablespoonfuls of salad-oil1 over a moderate fire1 shaking the stewpan round occasionally1 until the pieces of fowl are rather browned1 when mix in a tablespoonful of flour1 which moisten with a pint of stock or water1 let it simmer at the corner of the fire twenty minutes1 skimming off the oil as it rises to the surface2 add a few blanched mushrooms in slices1 season with a little salt1 pepper1 sugar1 and a piece of scraped garlic the size of a pea2 take out the fowl1 which pile upon your dish1 laying the worst pieces at the bottom2 reduce the sauce over the fire1 keeping it stirred until sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon1 when pour over the fowl and serve4 ,use brown sauce1 if handy4 #dhf4 ,fricasse of ,rabbit4--,cut a nice young rabbit into neat joints1 and put them into lukewarm water to disgorge for half an hour1 when drain and put them into a stewpan1 with a large onion cut into slices1 two cloves1 a blade of mace1 a little parsley1 one bay-leaf1 and a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon cut into small dice2 cover the whole with water1 and let it simmer twenty minutes1 keeping it well skimmed2 then pass the stock through a sieve into a basin1 take out the pieces of rabbit with the bacon1 then in another stewpan have two ounces of butter1 with which mix a good tablespoonful of flour1 moisten with the stock1 and stir over the fire until boiling2 then trim neatly the pieces of rabbit1 which1 with the bacon and twenty button onions1 put into the sauce2 let the whole simmer until the onions are tender1 skimming off all the fat as it rises to the surface2 then pour in a gill of cream1 with which you have mixed the yolks of two eggs1 leave it a moment upon the fire to thicken 7but not to boil71 take out the rabbit1 which pile upon your dish1 sauce over and serve4 #dhg4 ,gibelotte of ,rabbit4--,cut up a young rabbit into neat joints1 as likewise a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon in small dice1 put the bacon into a stewpan1 with two ounces of butter1 and when a little fried1 put in the pieces of rabbit1 which saut of a light brown color1 moving them round occasionally with a wooden spoon2 then add a good tablespoonful of flour1 working it well in1 moisten with a pint of water1 season with a little pepper and salt1 and when beginning to simmer1 skim off all the fat1 and add thirty button onions1 a few blanched mushrooms1 and a little brown gravy or coloring2 let simmer a quarter of an hour longer1 when take out the rabbit1 which dress upon your dish2 reduce the sauce until it adheres to the back of the spoon1 when pour it over the rabbit and serve4 #dhh4 ,compote of ,pigeons4--,put a quarter of a pound of lean bacon cut into small dice into a stewpan1 with half an ounce of butter1 and fry a few seconds over the fire1 then have three pigeons trussed1 with their legs turned inside1 which place in the stewpan breast downwards1 setting them over the fire until of a light brown color1 moving them round occasionally2 add a tablespoonful of flour1 which work well in with a wooden spoon1 until becoming browned1 when moisten with a pint of water1 add a good bunch of parsley1 with a bay-leaf1 and about thirty button onions1 season with a little pepper and salt1 let the whole simmer three quarters of an hour1 keeping it well skimmed1 then dress the pigeons upon a dish with the bacon and onions round1 reduce the sauce to a proper consistency1 take out the parsley and bay-leaf1 sauce over and serve4 #dhi4 ,stewed ,pigeon with ,peas4--,cook the pigeons precisely as described in the last1 but omitting the onions and bay-leaf1 and adding a quart of fresh green peas2 when done1 dress the pigeons in a dish1 pour the sauce and peas over and serve4 #dij4 ,hot ,lamb ,pie 7raised74--,to make this an oval1 a tin or copper pie mould would be required1 which you would choose of a size most generally useful4 ,butter the interior of the mould1 which stand upon a baking-sheet1 then make the following paste3 put a quarter of a pound of butter and the same of chopped suet into a stewpan1 with half a pint of water1 and let the whole boil together one minute1 when strain it through a sieve into a basin containing two pounds of flour1 mixing it first with a spoon1 and when cool enough with the hand1 until forming a smooth paste2 when partly cold roll it out into a sheet half an inch in thickness1 with which line the mould1 pressing the paste evenly at all parts2 have ready cut sufficient small lamb chops from the loin1 neatly cut away the bones1 and lay them round the interior of the pie alternately with slices of raw potatoes 7a quarter of an inch in thickness71 season rather highly as you proceed1 with pepper1 salt1 chopped onions1 and parsley2 make a neat cover with the trimmings of the paste1 and bake it rather better than two hours in a moderate oven2 when done lift the cover1 pour out as much of the fat as possible1 add a little gravy and serve4 #dia4 ,other various ,pies4--,hot raised pies may also be made with mutton by following the above directions4 ,they are also very good made with fillet of beef cut into thin slices of the size of the lamb chops1 or of rump steak1 by laying a piece at the bottom1 seasoning and filling alternately with potatoes and the meat2 veal and ham pies are also excellent1 but the potatoes in them had better be omitted1 the veal however1 seasoned and dipped in flour4 ,pies may also be made with veal sweetbreads and ham1 but then about three parts of a pint of white sauce should be poured in after the pie is baked4 ,fowls or rabbits may likewise be cut into joints1 and put into a stewpan1 with a piece of butter1 previously well seasoning them with pepper1 salt1 and chopped eschalots2 cover the stewpan close1 and leave it twenty minutes over a slow fire1 when add a pint of white sauce1 and simmer ten minutes longer1 when cold build them up in the interior of the pie1 which cover and bake an hour in a warm oven4 ,pies of the above description can of course be made of any size1 either large enough for a family meal1 or very small and round1 for a corner dish for a dinner party2 most people who are in the habit of making them1 keep two different-sized moulds for the purpose4 #dib4 ,rump ,steak ,pie4--,procure two pounds of rumpsteaks1 which cut into thinnish slices1 and season well with pepper and salt1 dip each piece into flour1 and lay them in a small pie-dish1 finishing the top in the form of a dome2 add a wineglassful of water1 then have ready half a pound of half-puff paste1 cut off a small piece1 which roll into a band1 and lay round the edge of the dish1 having previously wetted it with a paste-brush1 dipped in water1 then roll out the remainder of the paste to about the size of the dish1 damp the band of paste upon the dish1 and lay the other piece over1 make a hole with a knife at the top1 press the edges evenly down with your thumbs1 trim the pie round with a knife1 egg over the top with a paste-brush1 and ornament it with the trimmings of the paste1 according to fancy3 bake it rather better than an hour in a moderate oven1 and serve either hot or cold4 #dic4 ,veal and ,ham ,pie4--,cut about a pound and a half of veal into thin slices1 as also a quarter of a pound of cooked ham2 season the veal rather highly with white pepper and salt1 with which cover the bottom of the dish1 then lay over a few slices of ham1 then the remainder of the veal1 finishing with the remainder of the ham1 add a wineglassful of water1 and cover and bake as directed for the beefsteak pie3 a bay will be an improvement4 #did4 ,mutton pie4--,procure the chumps of three loins of mutton1 from which cut the meat in moderately thin slices1 put a layer at the bottom of the dish1 which season well with chopped parsley1 eschalots1 pepper1 and salt2 then put a layer of slices of raw potatoes1 and again a layer of mutton1 seasoning as before1 proceeding thus to the top1 which form in a dome1 finishing with mutton1 cover with paste1 and bake as directed for rumpsteak pie4 #die4 ,another method4--,cut six chops from a loin of mutton1 from which trim as much of the fat as possible3 season them well with salt and pepper1 and lay them round in your pie-dish1 the thick part uppermost1 put two onions1 in slices1 in the centre1 over which lay four middling-sized potatoes1 each cut in halves1 pour in a wineglassful of water1 cover with paste1 and bake as the last4 #dif4 ,lamb ,pie4--,cut a small neck of lamb into chops1 which must not be too fat1 season them lightly with pepper and salt1 and lay them in your pie-dish1 with a few new potatoes in slices1 pour in a little water1 then cover and bake as directed for rumpsteak pie4 #dig4 ,chicken ,pie4--,cut up a nice plump chicken into joints1 which lay upon a dish1 and season lightly with chopped parsley1 white pepper1 and salt1 then lay the back1 cut into three pieces1 at the bottom of a pie-dish1 with the two legs on either side2 have half a pound of cooked ham or bacon in slices1 a layer of which cover over1 then lay in the two wings1 and over them the breast1 cut into two pieces1 which1 with the remainder of the ham or bacon1 form into a dome in the middle1 pour half a pint of white sauce over1 if handy1 or a little broth or water1 cover with paste1 and bake as directed for the last4 ,if no white sauce1 dip each piece lightly in flour4 #dih4 ,rabbit ,pie4--,cut a nice rabbit into joints1 splitting the head in halves1 and lay them in lukewarm water half an hour1 to disgorge1 then dry them upon a cloth1 season well with pepper1 salt1 chopped eschalots1 parsley1 two bay-leaves1 and a spoonful of flour2 have also three quarters of a pound of uncooked streaked bacon1 cut into square pieces the size of walnuts1 build up the pieces of rabbit and bacon together1 in a pie-dish1 commencing with the worst pieces1 and forming a dome2 pour in a little water1 cover with paste1 and bake as directed for rumpsteak pie4 #dii4 ,pigeon ,pie4--,line the bottom of a pie-dish with a pound of rumpsteak1 cut into slices not too thin1 seasoned with a little salt1 pepper1 and cayenne1 and dipped into flour2 have ready picked and drawn a couple of pigeons1 cut off the feet1 turn the legs in1 fold up the pinions of the wings1 and lay them breast to breast upon the meat1 have the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs1 which put at the sides1 sprinkle a little pepper and salt over the pigeons1 lay a bay-leaf upon the top1 pour in a little water1 cover with paste1 stick the feet in the top1 and bake as directed for the last4 #ejj4 ,partridge ,pie4--,line the bottom of a pie-dish with slices of veal1 cut moderately thick1 and rather lightly seasoned with white pepper and salt2 have ready picked1 drawn1 and trussed a couple of young partridges1 pour one glass of sherry over the veal1 and lay in the partridges breast to breast1 laying a piece of fat bacon over each1 cover with paste1 sticking the feet of the partridges in the top of the pie1 and bake as before4 #eja4 ,grouse ,pie4--,roast1 very underdone1 a couple of nice plump grouse2 when cold1 cut into joints1 being the two wings1 two legs1 and the breasts into two pieces each1 season them lightly1 and lay them in a pie-dish1 building them to form a dome1 then break up the back-bone and other trimmings1 which put into a stewpan1 with a glass of sherry1 a bay-leaf1 an onion in slices1 a few sprigs of parsley1 three or four whole allspice1 set the stewpan over the fire a few minutes until the wine boils1 when add half a pint of brown sauce1 and half a pint of broth1 stir it over a fire until again reduced to half a pint1 when strain it through a sieve1 over the grouse2 when quite cold cover with paste1 as directed for rumpsteak pie1 and bake in a warm oven2 about half an hour would be sufficient1 as the paste requires to be laid on thinner1 the contents of the pie having been previously cooked4 ,pies may be made from the remains of any poultry or game1 in the same manner as here described2 only1 if poultry1 use white sauce instead of brown1 and omit the wine4 ,if no sauce1 roll each piece in flour1 and make only the gravy1 which place in it4 ,the remains of any joint of meat may likewise be served in a pie1 by cutting the meat in slices1 well seasoning1 laying them in a pie-dish1 and pouring half a pint of sharp sauce over2 or use broth1 or even water highly seasoned4 #ejb4 ,sea ,pie4--,put into a stewpan two pounds of beefsteak1 season it with pepper and salt1 a small bit of celery chopped up1 or a pinch of ground celery seed1 a pinch of pounded basil1 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 a small onion cut in slices2 put on this six larks trussed for roasting1 then make a piece of paste with suet1 about one inch thick1 and round like the stewpan2 put half a pint of water or ,hock in the stewpan1 and cover the larks with the paste1 pressing it against the sides of the stewpan2 simmer for one hour1 and serve1 by putting a knife round the sides of the stewpan to detach the paste1 and turn it over on a dish4 #ejc4 ,eel ,pie4--,skin and cleanse three good-sized eels1 which cut into pieces about two inches in length1 put a good-sized bunch of parsley1 thyme1 and three bay-leaves1 all tied together1 into a stewpan1 with an onion1 into which you have stuck six cloves1 a glass of port wine1 and a pint of broth1 lay in the pieces of eels1 and set them upon the fire to simmer for ten minutes1 when take them out1 laying them upon a cloth to drain1 skim off all the fat from the stock the eels were cooked in1 to which add rather more than half a pint of brown sauce1 let the whole boil until reduced to three parts of a pint1 when dress the pieces of eels up in a pie-dish1 strain the sauce over through a sieve1 and when cold1 cover with paste as directed for rumpsteak pie1 and bake about an hour in a moderate oven1 serve it hot4 ,if for a small pie1 they may be used raw1 and season accordingly1 after having rolled each piece in flour4 #ejd4 ,beefsteak ,pudding4--,put a pound of flour upon a dresser1 with which mix half a pound of beef suet1 very finely chopped1 make a hole in the middle1 into which put a teaspoonful of salt1 and sufficient water to form a rather stiffish paste1 mix it well together1 using a little more flour to dry it and prevent its sticking2 then lightly butter the interior of a round-bottomed pudding-basin1 roll out two thirds of the paste to half an inch in thickness1 with which line the basin2 have ready cut into slices1 about the size of the palm of the hand and a quarter of an inch in thickness1 two pounds of rumpsteak1 with a little of the fat included1 lay them upon a dish2 season with two teaspoonfuls of salt1 and one of black pepper1 sprinkle a little flour over1 move them about a little until each piece is well covered with flour and seasoning2 then lay them within the paste1 also putting in whatever seasoning may remain upon the dish1 pour a gill of water over1 moistening the edges of the paste2 then roll out the remainder of the paste to form a lid1 which place over1 pressing it down with the thumb1 then tie the basin in a pudding-cloth1 and put it into a saucepan containing about a gallon of boiling water1 and keep continually boiling for nearly two hours1 adding a little more water occasionally1 to keep up the quantity2 then take it up1 untie the cloth1 run a sharp-pointed knife into the pudding1 and if the meat feels tender1 it is done 7if not1 it will require more boiling71 turn it over upon your dish1 lift the basin carefully from it1 and serve1 without opening the pudding to add gravy1 as many persons do1 for a pudding made as above will be full of gravy when cut at table4 #eje4 ,mutton ,pudding4--,line a pudding-basin with paste1 as directed in the last2 then have ready cut into slices the meat from two loin-chumps of mutton1 which lay upon a dish1 and season with a teaspoonful of chopped onions1 the same of chopped parsley1 rather more than half that quantity of black pepper1 and salt in proportion2 then put a layer of meat into the pudding1 then a layer of raw potatoes cut into slices1 proceeding thus until you have filled it up1 but finishing with meat1 cover it up as in the last1 likewise tie it in a napkin1 and boil1 but rather better than two hours would be sufficient2 serve as before directed4 #ejf4 ,lamb ,pudding4--,if convenient1 procure the entire ribs of lamb1 sawing off the breast almost close to the lean part of the neck2 the breast may be cooked as directed 7,no4 #ccd72 cut the neck into rather thin cutlets1 which season lightly with white pepper1 salt1 and a little chopped parsley and onions3 you have previously lined a pudding-basin with paste as before1 fill it with the meat thus prepared1 intermixing a few new potatoes cut in slices1 finish the pudding1 boil1 and serve as before directed4 #ejg4 ,veal ,pudding4--,cut two pounds of veal from any part of the leg into slices1 about the size of the palm of the hand and a quarter of an inch in thickness1 put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan1 and when melted lay in the veal1 and a few slices of streaked bacon1 season the whole with pepper and a little salt1 add one bay-leaf1 and a few sprigs of thyme2 place the pan over a slow fire1 saut the veal gently for a quarter of an hour2 then take it from the fire1 and leave it in the pan until cold1 then have a pudding-basin lined with paste as before1 lay in the veal and bacon1 pouring the gravy over1 cover1 and boil as before1 but an hour would be sufficient4 #ejh4 ,pork ,pudding4--,line a pudding-basin with paste as before1 and spread three quarters of a pound of sausage-meat of an equal thickness over the interior1 have a pound and a half of lean pork1 from the leg if possible1 cut into square pieces of the size of walnuts1 which season rather highly with pepper1 salt1 a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots1 and half that quantity of dried sage2 put the meat into the centre of the pudding1 cover over with a quarter of a pound more sausage-meat1 over which put on the cover of paste1 tie it in a cloth1 and boil two hours and a half1 as directed for beefsteak pudding4 #eji4 ,kidney ,pudding4--,procure one ox or eight mutton kidneys1 which cut into slices the thickness of half-a-crown piece2 lay them upon a dish1 seasoning well with black pepper and salt1 and shaking one ounce of flour over1 mix all well together1 to absorb the flour and seasoning2 then have a pudding-basin1 lined as directed for beefsteak pudding1 finish1 boil1 and serve as there directed4 ,a pudding made with one pound of steak and a beef kidney is also very excellent1 as is likewise a beefsteak pudding with two dozen of oysters 7previously blanched and bearded7 added4 #eaj4 ,rabbit ,pudding4--,cut a rabbit up in joints 7splitting the head in halves71 and lay them in a basin of lukewarm water an hour1 to disgorge2 line a pudding-basin with paste as directed for rumpsteak pudding1 dry the pieces of rabbit upon a cloth1 and lay them in the pudding with half a pound of streaked bacon1 cut into square pieces1 and seasoning rather highly with chopped eschalots1 salt1 pepper1 and chopped parsley2 cover1 tie it in a cloth1 boil it two hours1 and serve as before directed4 #eaa4 ,suet ,pudding4--,put a pound of sifted flour in a basin1 with half a pound of beef suet finely chopped1 add two eggs1 with a pinch of salt1 and a quarter of a pint of water1 beat well together with a wooden spoon1 making a rather thick batter1 flour a pudding-cloth1 which lay in a small1 round-bottomed basin1 pour in the mixture1 tie the cloth tightly1 and put the pudding in to boil1 with a joint of salt beef1 if you have one1 to serve the pudding with1 or if not1 in boiling water2 an hour and a quarter would be sufficient to cook it2 when done1 untie the cloth1 turn the pudding over upon your dish1 and serve very hot4 #eab4 ,yorkshire ,pudding4--,put six tablespoonfuls of flour into a basin1 with six eggs1 a pinch of salt1 and a quarter of a pint of milk1 mix well together with a wooden spoon1 adding the remaining three quarters of a pint of milk by degrees2 you have previously set a shallow tin dish under a piece of roasting beef before the fire2 an hour before serving pour in the batter1 leaving it under the meat until quite set and rather browned upon the top1 when turn the pudding over upon the dish you intend serving it upon1 and again place it before the fire until the other side is browned1 when it is ready to serve with the meat4 ,this pudding is also very excellent baked under a small piece of beef of about five or six pounds4 ,it is also frequently baked beneath a shoulder of mutton2 also baked in an oven separate 7with a few spoonfuls of gravy added71 if the fire is not large enough4 #eac4 ,toad in a ,hole4--,make a batter as directed for the ,yorkshire pudding1 but with the addition of a spoonful more flour and six ounces of chopped beef suet2 butter a rather deep baking-dish1 into which pour the batter1 lay a solid piece of lean gravy beef1 about three pounds1 in the centre1 and bake it an hour and a half in a hot oven4 ,another method is to cut up about three pounds of rump-steaks into about six pieces1 and putting them in the batter at various distances apart1 but the former method is most common4 ,any remains of cooked beef1 veal1 mutton1 pork1 roasted or boiled1 salt or fresh1 or game and fowl1 cut in pieces1 and seasoned to taste1 may be used in this dish1 by adding it to the batter when in the dish4 #ead4 ,pease ,pudding4--,tie a pint of split peas in a cloth1 leaving them room to swell1 but not more2 put them into a stewpan of cold water1 where let them boil nearly half an hour until tender1 but not at all watery 7which they would not be if allowed only sufficient room to swell1 and no more72 then turn them out of the cloth1 rub them through a hair sieve into a basin1 after which add a quarter of a pound of butter1 season with a little white pepper and salt1 and mix all well together1 with three yolks and one whole egg2 lightly flour a pudding-cloth1 which lay in a small round-bottomed basin1 pour in the mixture1 tie up the cloth1 and put the pudding to boil for an hour in a saucepan of boiling water2 when done1 turn it from the cloth upon a dish1 and serve with any joint of boiled pork4 #eae4 ,fowl ,pillau4--,put one pound of the best ,patna rice into a frying-pan with two ounces of butter1 which keep moving over a slow fire1 until the rice is lightly browned2 then have ready a fowl trussed as for boiling1 which put into a stewpan1 with five pints of good broth1 pound in a mortar about forty cardamom seeds with the husks1 half an ounce of coriander seeds1 and sufficient cloves1 allspice1 mace1 cinnamon1 and peppercorns1 to make two ounces in the aggregate1 which tie up tightly in a cloth1 and put into the stewpan with the fowl1 let it boil slowly until the fowl is nearly done2 then add the rice1 which let stew until quite tender and almost dry2 have ready four onions1 which cut into slices the thickness of half-crown pieces1 sprinkle over with flour1 and fry1 without breaking them1 of a nice brown color1 have also six thin slices of bacon1 curled and grilled1 and two eggs boiled hard2 then lay the fowl upon your dish1 which cover over with the rice1 forming a pyramid1 garnish with the bacon1 fried onions1 and the hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters1 and serve very hot4 ,the bag of spice must be preserved1 as it will answer the same purpose half a dozen times4 ,fowl pillaus are frequently served with two ounces of ,malaga raisins1 which are added at the same time and stewed with the rice4 #eaf4 ,mutton ,pillau4--,trim a neck of mutton1 by sawing off the tips of the ribs and taking away the chine-bone2 then lay it in a stewpan1 with a bag of spice as in the last1 and cover with three quarts of stock1 let it simmer very gently two hours2 then take out the mutton1 which keep hot upon a dish1 skim off all the fat from the stock it was boiled in1 to which add a pound of ,patna rice1 which stew until tender and very dry3 then lay it over the mutton1 garnish with fried onions1 and hard-boiled eggs1 as in the last1 and serve very hot4 #eag4 ,chicken ,curry4--,cut up a chicken into ten pieces1 that is1 two wings1 two pieces of the breast1 two of the back1 and each leg divided into two pieces at the joints2 then cut up a middling-sized onion into very small dice1 which put into a stewpan1 with an ounce of butter and a very small piece of garlic1 stir them over the fire until sautd well2 then add two teaspoonfuls of curry powder and one of curry paste1 which well mix in2 then add half a pint of good broth1 let it boil up2 then lay in the pieces of chicken1 cover it over1 and put to stew very gently for half an hour1 stirring it round occasionally1 if getting too dry add a little more broth 7or water72 when done1 the flesh should part easily from the bones1 and the sauce should adhere rather thickly2 season with the juice of half a lemon and a pinch of salt1 and serve1 with plain boiled rice1 upon a separate dish4 ,ducklings can be cooked in the same way4 #eah4 ,chicken ,curry with ,paste4--,cut a chicken up as described in the last1 which put into a stewpan1 with two ounces of clarified butter1 put it over the fire1 stirring occasionally until the pieces of the chicken are lightly browned2 then pour off the butter and fat from the chicken1 add three teaspoonfuls of curry paste and a pint of good broth1 mix all well together1 place the stewpan again upon the fire1 stewing its contents slowly for about twenty minutes1 when serve1 as directed in the last4 #eai4 ,rabbit ,curry4--,cut up a rabbit into smallish pieces1 splitting the head in halves1 cut up two large onions and one apple into very small dice1 which fry in a stewpan with two ounces of butter2 when nicely browned1 add a good tablespoonful of curry powder1 a teaspoonful of curry paste1 half one of flour1 and a pint of stock1 mix well together1 then put in the rabbit1 with half a pound of streaked bacon1 cut into square pieces the size of filberts1 let the whole stew very gently upon a very slow fire 7or put the stewpan closely covered down into a warm oven7 three quarters of an hour2 when done1 which you may ascertain by trying with the point of a knife if the flesh will leave the bone easily1 pour off as much of the fat as possible1 and turn it out upon your dish2 serve with rice separately4 ,the curry sauce should be sufficiently thick to envelop each piece of the rabbit4 #ebj4 ,veal ,curry4--,cut up about two pounds of lean veal into small square pieces1 half the size of walnuts1 then put a large onion cut into small dice in a stewpan1 with a clove of garlic and one apple cut into slices1 and one ounce of butter2 keep them stirred over a moderate fire until lightly browned1 when stir in a good tablespoonful of mild curry powder1 half one of flour1 mix well1 then add a pint of water1 let it just boil up1 put in the veal1 which stir round two or three times1 to mix with the curry1 and put the stewpan over a slow fire1 or in a warm oven for an hour and a half2 when done 7which you may ascertain by pressing a piece between the finger and thumb1 if done it would be quite tender and separate71 add the juice of a lemon and a little salt1 stir the whole round three or four times very gently1 to mix1 and turn it out upon your dish1 serve with rice separately4 ,should you require a veal curry made in less time1 the better plan would be to saut the veal in butter previously1 then putting it with its own gravy to the curry1 and boiling the whole gently a quarter of an hour4 ,to make a veal curry with curry paste1 saut the veal in butter2 when becoming slightly browned1 add a good tablespoonful of the paste1 with half a pint of water1 leave it to stew about half an hour1 when it will be ready to serve4 ,beef1 mutton1 lamb1 and pork curries are made precisely the same as directed for veal curries4 #eba4 ,breast of ,veal ,curry4--,procure a piece of breast of veal about three pounds in weight1 with the bones and tendons attached1 which chop into about twenty square pieces1 and put into a stewpan1 with two quarts of water1 and a bunch of parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaves2 let it simmer three hours at the corner of the fire1 skimming off all the fat1 then take out the meat and strain the broth into a basin2 in another stewpan have a middling-sized onion 7cut into small dice71 with an ounce of butter1 saut them rather brown1 then add a good tablespoonful of curry powder1 mix well1 and pour in the broth1 then add the meat1 which let stew in the curry one hour longer1 until the meat is very tender1 and the sauce becomes rather thick2 pour off as much fat as possible1 season with a little salt and the juice of a lemon1 which stir in very gently1 take the meat out as whole as possible1 dress them upon your dish1 pour the sauce over and serve2 rice separately4 #ebb4 ,breast of ,mutton ,curry4--,cut up a breast of mutton1 bones and all1 into pieces about two inches in length and one in width1 which put into a stewpan with two quarts of water1 to simmer for about two hours1 when proceed precisely as directed in the last4 #ebc4 ,breast of ,lamb ,curry is made very similar to the preceding1 and is considered a great treat to those who are fond of curries4 ,curry paste may be used to advantage1 either by itself1 or mixed equally with the powder4 ,there being a great quantity of fat in the breast1 great care should be taken to remove it from the curry every available opportunity4 #ebd4 ,lamb's ,head ,curry4--,procure a lamb's head1 which split in halves1 break the bones at the nostrils1 and put into lukewarm water an hour to disgorge1 previously taking out the brains1 which likewise disgorge in the water1 then put the head into a stewpan well covered with water1 let it boil two hours1 when take it out1 separate the bones from the flesh1 which cut into small pieces4 ,in another stewpan have a middling-sized onion cut into small dice1 which set upon the fire1 adding two ounces of butter1 and saut them a light brown color1 when add a tablespoonful of curry powder1 and half that quantity of curry paste1 mix well together1 then put in the pieces of head with half a pint of broth1 and stew gently for half an hour4 ,whilst the curry is stewing1 take the brains from the water1 and put them into a stewpan of boiling water1 let simmer five minutes1 after which chop very fine1 and put them into a basin1 with a good handful of bread-crumbs1 a little white pepper1 salt1 and chopped parsley1 mix well together with an egg1 and form it into six little round balls1 which egg and bread-crumb twice over1 and fry in a little hot lard1 of a very light brown color1 then dress the curry upon a dish1 lay the brain croquets round1 and serve with rice separately4 #ebe4 ,calf's ,head ,curry is usually made with the remains left from a previous dinner2 if about two pounds of meat remaining upon the bone1 cut it whilst cold into thin slices1 then cut two onions and two apples into small dice1 which put into a stewpan1 with an ounce of butter and half a clove of garlic cut in slices1 stir with a wooden spoon over the fire until sautd nice and brown1 when add a tablespoonful of curry powder1 half one of flour1 mix well1 then pour in a pint of broth1 add a little salt1 and boil twenty minutes1 keeping it well stirred2 then put in the calf's head1 and let it remain upon the fire until quite hot through2 add the juice of half a lemon1 which stir in very gently1 without breaking the meat1 dress it upon a dish1 and serve with rice separately4 ,curry sauce may be passed through a sieve previously to putting the head in4 #ebf4 ,calf's ,feet ,curry4--,after boiling a set of feet for calf's feet jelly1 the feet may be served in curry as follows3 separate the meat from the bones whilst the feet are warm2 when cold1 cut them into small square pieces1 and proceed exactly as in the last2 or use curry sauce4 #ebg4 ,calf's ,tail ,curry4--,cut up calves' tails into joints1 which put into a stewpan1 with a small piece of lean ham and a bunch of parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaf2 cover them with three pints of cold water1 and let simmer about two hours1 until tender1 keeping them well skimmed2 when done1 strain the stock through a hair sieve into a basin1 and put the tails upon a plate2 then proceed as directed for calf's head curry1 but using the stock from the tails1 and reducing the curry until rather thickish before adding the tails4 #ebh4 ,ox ,tail ,curry is made precisely as in the last1 but one tail would be sufficient1 and it would require double the time to stew2 or use curry sauce4 #ebi4 ,tripe ,curry4--,cut two large onions into very small dice1 which put into a stewpan1 with two ounces of butter1 and stir over the fire until brown1 when well mix in a tablespoonful of curry powder and half that quantity of paste2 add a pint of broth1 and two pounds of double tripe cut into strips2 let the whole stew very slowly one hour1 keeping it well skimmed1 when dress it upon a dish1 and serve with rice separately4 #ecj4 ,lobster ,curry4--,procure a large boiled lobster1 break the shell1 and take out the flesh in as large pieces as possible1 cutting the tail into about six pieces1 and the claws of a proportionate size2 then cut two onions into small slices1 which put into a stewpan1 with an ounce of butter1 fry them of a light yellow color1 then mix in a good tablespoonful of mild curry paste 7or half powder and half paste71 and add a pint of good broth1 then boil it up over the fire until becoming a little thickish1 when put in the lobster1 stir the whole round1 then cover the stewpan closely1 and put it into a moderate oven half an hour1 by which time the curry would be of a proper consistency1 and the lobster very delicately tender1 add the juice of half a lemon1 and serve with rice separately4 ,if no oven it may be very gradually stewed over a slow fire1 in which case it might want moistening occasionally4 #eca4 ,crab ,curry4--,prepare the onions and curry precisely as in the last1 but adding the flesh of a crab 7broken small7 instead of a lobster2 let it stew over the fire about twenty minutes1 add the juice of half a lemon1 and serve as before4 #ecb4 ,oyster ,curry4--,blanch and beard six dozen of oysters1 leaving the oysters in their own liquor2 then cut two middling-sized onions into small dice1 and saut it in a stewpan1 with an ounce of butter2 when done1 mix in two teaspoonfuls of curry powder and one of curry paste1 then add the oysters with their liquor1 and keep stirring over the fire until the oysters become enveloped in a thick sauce1 when turn them out upon your dish1 and serve with rice separately4 #ecc4 ,prawn ,curry4--,procure sufficient prawns to weigh about a pound2 when picked1 put half of a small onion chopped very fine into a stewpan1 with half an ounce of butter1 stir them over the fire until becoming rather yellowish2 then add two teaspoonfuls of mild but rather piquant curry paste1 mixing the whole gradually with half a pint of good broth2 then put in the prawns1 and stew gently about a quarter of an hour1 when they will be ready to serve2 rice separate4 ,if no curry paste1 powder may be used1 but the paste is far preferable4 ,shrimps may also be curried in the same way1 but they are in general so very salt4 #ecd4 ,salmon ,curry4--,have two slices of salmon1 weighing about a pound each1 which cut into pieces of the size of walnuts1 cut up two middling-sized onions1 which put into a stewpan1 with an ounce of butter and a clove of garlic cut in thin slices1 stir over the fire until becoming rather yellowish2 then add a tablespoonful of curry powder and half that quantity of curry paste1 mix all well together with a pint of good broth1 put in the salmon1 which stew about half an hour1 pour off as much of the oil as possible2 if too dry1 moisten with a little more broth1 mixing it gently1 and serve as before4 ,salmon curry may also be made with the remains left from a previous dinner1 in which case reduce the curry sauce until rather thick before putting in the salmon1 which only requires to be made hot in it4 ,the remains of a turbot might also be curried in the same way1 and also any kind of fish4 #ece4 ,fillet of ,sole ,curry4--,fillet two nice soles1 and cut each fillet into five pieces 7slantwise72 then in a stewpan have a small onion chopped fine and fried1 to which add a tablespoonful of curry paste1 or an equal quantity of paste and powder2 when well mixed1 put in the fillets of soles1 with just sufficient broth to cover them2 let it boil rather fast for ten minutes1 when the sauce will become sufficiently thick to envelop the fish1 season with the juice of half a lemon1 and serve with rice separately4 ,fillets of haddocks or whitings are curried precisely the same4 #ecf4 ,skate ,curry4--,plain boil about two pounds of skate with a piece of the liver1 which put upon a dish without a napkin1 previously well draining off the water2 whilst the fish is boiling1 cut two onions in slices1 which put into a stewpan1 with an ounce of butter1 and fry of a lightish brown color2 then mix in a tablespoonful of curry powder with a teaspoonful of flour1 and a pint of good broth1 set it upon the fire1 keeping it stirred1 and when boiling1 put in a good-sized apple cut into slices1 let boil until it is reduced to about half1 when rub it through a tammy or hair sieve1 pour it again into a stewpan1 and when hot1 pour over the fish1 and serve with rice separately4 ,,eggs4 #ecg4 ,plain ,baked ,eggs4--,butter with one ounce a plated dish1 or common tart-dish1 that will bear the heat of the oven2 break carefully six eggs on it1 season with one pinch of pepper1 half a spoonful of salt1 and add half an ounce of butter in small pieces over1 put them in a slack oven until set1 and serve4 #ech4 ,baked ,eggs with ,asparagus4--,cut twenty heads of sprue into small pieces1 keeping only the tender part1 boil them for fifteen minutes1 put them into a stewpan1 with half an ounce of butter1 set them on the fire for three minutes1 season with a little pepper1 salt1 and sugar2 when done1 put them in the dish you intend to serve it in1 break six eggs over1 which season as above1 put it into the oven until it sets1 and serve2 in case the oven is not sufficiently hot1 place a salamander over the eggs4 #eci4 ,mashed ,eggs4--,break four eggs into a stewpan1 with one ounce of butter1 half a teaspoonful of salt1 and a pinch of pepper1 put it on the fire1 stir continually1 and as soon as delicately set1 serve4 ,these can be served with either green peas1 sprue grass1 or mushrooms1 which must be stewed and prepared as if ready to serve2 put some in the stewpan with the eggs1 and proceed as before4 ,if meagre1 use cream instead of butter4 #edj4 ,eggs with ,burnt ,butter4--,put into a frying-pan two ounces of butter1 which melt2 as soon as it is on the point of browning1 put in the eggs1 which have been previously broken in a basin1 and seasoned with pepper and salt2 when well set1 serve1 with a teaspoonful of vinegar over the eggs4 #eda4 ,eggs la ,tripe4--,cut about two onions each into thin slices1 put them in a stewpan1 with half an ounce of fresh butter1 and set them on a slow fire2 when warmed through1 put half a teaspoonful of salt1 quarter ditto of pepper1 a teaspoonful of flour1 a gill of milk1 and a little sugar2 let it boil1 put in six hard eggs cut in quarters1 and serve1 after a little ebullition4 #edb4 ,snow ,eggs4--,take half a pint of milk and a little sugar1 and flavor it with orange-flower water1 or any other essence1 and put it in a stewpan on the fire1 having previously beaten up the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth2 if very hot weather1 you must place the basin they are in on ice1 or in cold water2 whilst beating1 add some powdered sugar lightly2 when the milk is boiling1 take the white up with a tablespoon1 and drop it1 one tablespoonful at a time1 in the stewpan to poach1 keeping the shape of an egg1 which turn over when set2 when done1 remove with a colander on to a sieve1 and dress them in a crown on the dish you intend to serve them on2 when all done1 beat up the yolks of four of the eggs in a stewpan1 with a little sugar and a few drops of orange-flower water1 pour part of the boiling milk out of the stewpan into it1 sufficient to make a good stiff custard1 put it on the fire until rather thick1 and pour over the white1 and serve either hot or cold3 the last is preferable4 #edc4 ,eggs with ,cheese4--,put into a stewpan about two ounces of grated ,parmesan1 or ,gruyre1 or old ,cheshire1 with one ounce of butter1 two sprigs of parsley1 two spring onions chopped up1 a little grated nutmeg1 and half a glass of sherry2 put it on the fire1 and keep stirring until the cheese is well melted2 break six eggs in a basin1 put them in the stewpan1 stir and cook them on a slow fire2 when done1 serve with fried sippets of bread round4 ,or1 ,another way4 ,put into a flat dish that will bear the oven a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 the same of grated cheese1 the yolks of two eggs1 some grated cinnamon and nutmeg1 mix these on the dish1 put it either in the oven or in the hot plate1 or1 from want of either1 before the fire1 until it sets1 then gently break six eggs on the dish1 and cover with grated cheese1 and salamander until a nice brown1 or for want of one1 keep it before the fire until it is so1 and serve4 #edd4 ,eggs in ,cases4--,cut up a sheet of paper into pieces of three inches square1 turn up half an inch all around so as to form a kind of case1 they will then remain but two inches square in the inside4 ,take a small piece of butter1 a pinch of fine breadcrumbs1 a little fine chopped parsley1 spring onions1 salt1 and pepper1 and mix them together1 put a little into each case1 then break one egg into each1 put them on a gridiron over a slow fire1 and do them gently1 or place them in a dish in an oven2 when well set1 serve4 #ede4 ,omelette with ,herbs4--,break six eggs in a basin or stewpan1 and add to it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 and one of chopped eschalot or spring onions1 half ditto of salt1 and a pinch of pepper1 and beat it well up together4 ,put into an omelette-pan1 that is1 a small frying-pan six inches in diameter1 two ounces of butter1 which melt1 then pour in the eggs1 stir round with a spoon2 as soon as it begins to set1 lightly move it to that part of the pan opposite the handle1 so that it occupies only one third1 hold it so that that part of the pan is the lowest1 move with a spoon the outside edges over1 and let it remain half a minute1 so that it obtains a good color1 turn it over on to the dish so that the bottom is at the top4 ,they must not be too much done1 and served very hot4 ,they may be served plain1 or with the addition of any gravy4 ,omelettes of ham1 ,parmesan1 c41 are all made as the above1 with the addition that these articles must have been properly cooked previously1 and well chopped up1 so as to mix well with the eggs1 beat them up well together1 and cook in a pan the same way1 or a little grated cheese may be added4 ,this ,i beg of you to practise2 though simple1 there is some art in making it4 ,,garniture ,,for ,,omelettes4 #edf4 ,asparagus1 ,peas1 and ,green ,peas4--,put in a stewpan two spoonfuls of plain boiled sprue-grass that has previously been cut up1 add to it half an ounce of butter1 a little salt1 pepper1 and sugar1 warm it on the fire1 moving it continually2 when warm1 put it with a spoon in the centre of the omelette1 turn over1 and serve2 the same with peas1 and add melted butter or white sauce4 #edg4 ,oysters4--,open and blanch delicately twelve middle-sized oysters1 and put them in a stewpan with their own gravy1 beard them1 add a tablespoonful of milk or cream1 and give it a boil1 then add half an ounce of butter in which you have mixed a saltspoonful of flour1 stir it in without breaking the oysters1 put over the centre of your omelette1 and proceed as before4 #edh4 ,lobster4--,cut half or a small one in thin slices1 put four tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan1 a few drops of essence of anchovies1 and a little cayenne2 put in your lobster1 warm it well1 and put in the middle of the omelette1 as above4 #edi4 ,kidneys4--,cook two kidneys as ,no4 #dcj2 when done1 serve in centre of omelette1 as above4 #eej4 ,mushrooms4--,wash about ten small fresh mushrooms1 cut in slices1 put in a stewpan1 with half an ounce of butter1 a little salt1 pepper1 and the juice of a quarter of a lemon1 simmer for a few minutes on the fire till tender2 if too liquid1 add a little flour1 place in centre of omelette1 and proceed as above4 #eea4 ,bacon4--,cut two ounces of good lean bacon in small dice1 put in pan to fry with the butter for one minute1 then mix with the eggs prepared as for omelette of herbs1 and cook the same way4 ,,entr,,es ,,of ,,game4 #eeb4 ,broiled ,pheasant4--,having drawn a pheasant1 lay it upon its breast1 and pass a knife down the back-bone1 upon each side1 taking it entirely out1 then cut off the feet at the knuckle1 break the leg and thigh-bones1 turning the leg inside1 separate the breast-joint of the wing1 pressing the bird quite flat1 then saut it in a saut-pan1 with a little lard or dripping1 and when browned on both sides1 and about half done1 place it upon a plate1 season well with salt and pepper1 egg and bread-crumb over1 and broil it upon a gridiron over a moderate fire until sufficiently done1 which would be in about a quarter of an hour1 when serve with game1 mushroom1 or any piquant sauce4 ,the advantage of broiling or sauting game or poultry is1 that when you are alone1 you need only cook the half of any large bird at one time4 ,game ,curries4--,i have also made very good game curries1 but not too hot with curry1 as that would entirely destroy the flavor of the game4 #eec4 ,pheasant stewed with ,cabbage4--,the following is an excellent method for dressing a pheasant which should prove to be rather old1 although a young one would be preferable4 ,procure a large savoy1 which cut into quarters1 and well wash in salt and water1 after which boil it five minutes in plain water1 then drain it quite dry1 cut off the stalk1 season rather highly with pepper and salt1 have ready a middling-sized onion1 and half a pound of streaky bacon1 which1 with the cabbage1 put into a stewpan1 covering the whole with a little good broth2 let it simmer at the corner of the fire three quarters of an hour1 then thrust the pheasant 7previously three parts roasted7 into the cabbage1 and let them stew nearly three quarters of an hour longer1 or until the stock has reduced to glaze1 and adheres thickly to the cabbage1 when dress the cabbage in a mound upon your dish1 with the bacon1 cut into slices1 around1 and the pheasant upon the top1 half way buried in the cabbage2 have a little game sauce1 which pour round and serve4 #eed4 ,joe ,miller's stewed ,pheasant4--,roast a pheasant as directed 7,no4 #ehb71 but previously dipping it into flour1 and occasionally flour over whilst roasting1 thus making the exterior very crisp1 and keeping it nearly white1 then put the crumbs of two ,french rolls into a stewpan1 with half a pint of milk1 a small eschalot1 a bay-leaf1 an ounce of butter1 and a little pepper and salt2 let the whole boil a few minutes1 when take out the eschalot and bay-leaf1 place a piece of buttered toast upon your dish1 pour the above over1 dress the pheasant upon the top1 and serve4 #eee4 ,hashed ,pheasant4--,should you have any remains of pheasants from a previous day1 cut them into as neat pieces as possible1 then put an ounce of butter into a stewpan1 with half an ounce of flour1 which stir two or three minutes over the fire1 until becoming slightly browned2 then add a glass of port wine1 half a pint of water1 season highly1 boil at the corner of the stove1 stirring and skimming occasionally1 until sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon2 then put in the pieces of pheasant1 with a little coloring1 let it remain ten minutes1 at the corner of the stove1 but not to boil1 when dress the meat upon your dish1 pass the sauce over through a sieve1 and serve4 #eef4 ,a plain ,salmi of ,pheasant4--,or1 should you have a pheasant left that little has been cut from1 cut and trim it into neat joints1 which put into a stewpan1 then in another stewpan put the bones and trimmings1 chopped up very small1 with an onion in slices1 a little parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaf1 four peppercorns1 and a glass of sherry1 boil altogether two minutes1 then add three parts of a pint of brown sauce1 and half a pint of broth 7if no brown sauce1 add a spoonful of flour and a quart of broth or water and some coloring72 let the whole boil until reduced to half1 skimming it occasionally2 place a fine hair sieve over the stewpan containing the pieces of pheasant1 through which pass the sauce1 warm altogether gently1 without boiling1 and when quite hot dress the pieces neatly upon a dish1 pour the sauce over1 and serve with sippets of fried or toasted bread 7cut into the shape of hearts7 around4 ,the remains of pheasant1 or any other game1 may also be minced and warmed in a little of the above sauce1 and served with poached eggs upon the top1 or likewise made into boudins and croquettes1 as directed for turkey4 #eeg4 ,grouse4--,the ,scotch method is to plain roast the grouse1 dress it upon toast1 and pour plain melted butter over4 ,but they may be dressed in any of the ways directed for pheasants1 with the exception of being stewed with cabbage1 as may be likewise every description of black game4 #eeh4 ,stewed ,partridges with ,cabbage4--,have two nice partridges trussed as for boiling1 and run five or six slices of fat bacon1 of the thickness of a quill1 lengthwise through the breast1 but not to protrude1 and roast them fifteen minutes before a moderate fire2 have some cabbage stewed as directed for pheasant with cabbage1 but stewed nearly dry before thrusting in the partridges2 keep the whole hot1 but not boiling1 for about an hour2 have ready two pork sausages1 nicely broiled1 dress the cabbage1 which must be quite dry1 upon your dish in a mound1 with the partridges at the top1 half buried in it1 cut the bacon in halves1 placing a piece at each end1 with a sausage at each side2 pour half a pint of game sauce round1 and serve2 good plain gravy is also very nice4 #eei4 ,partridge saut with ,mushrooms4--,have two young partridges1 each of which cut in halves1 and lay in a convenient-sized stewpan1 into which you have previously poured two or three tablespoonfuls of salad oil1 first seasoning them lightly with a little white pepper and salt1 and a sprinkle of chopped eschalots2 put a cover upon the stewpan1 which place over a moderate fire1 until one side of the partridges is browned1 when turn them over1 proceeding the same until browned on both sides2 then pour off part of the oil1 and add half a tablespoonful of flour1 which well mix in1 then add a glass of sherry1 half a pint of broth1 and twenty small button mushrooms 7previously blanched72 let it simmer1 skimming off all the oil which rises to the surface1 until the partridges are tender1 and the sauce thick enough to adhere to them2 season the sauce a little if required1 dress the partridges upon a dish1 sauce over1 and serve4 ,the remains of partridges may likewise be hashed or served in a plain salmi as directed for pheasants4 #efj4 ,woodcocks1 la ,lucullus4--,plain roast the woodcocks as directed in ,roasts1 catching their trails upon toast1 upon which1 when done1 dress the birds on a dish2 have ready a little thick melted butter1 with which mix the yolk of an egg and a little cream1 pour this over the woodcocks1 sprinkle lightly with bread-crumbs1 salamander of a light brown color1 and serve with a little gravy round4 #efa4 ,woodcock1 the ,sportsman's fashion4--,roast two woodcocks rather underdone1 catching their trails upon a large piece of toasted bread1 when done cut each bird into quarters1 which place in a stewpan1 with the remainder of the trail cut small1 a little pepper1 salt1 a glass of sherry1 a little chopped eschalot1 the juice of half a lemon1 and half a gill of broth1 let the whole simmer very gently a few minutes2 dress the pieces of woodcock rather high upon the toast1 pour the sauce over1 and serve4 #efb4 ,hashed ,woodcock4--,should you have any remaining from a previous dinner1 cut each one in four 7or if not whole1 into neat pieces71 chop all the interior rather fine1 which mix with a small piece of butter1 a spoonful of bread-crumbs1 and a little chopped parsley1 make six croutons in the shape of hearts1 from a piece of toasted bread1 spread a piece of the above preparation upon each1 and put them in a warm oven for a short time2 hash the pieces of woodcock as directed for pheasant1 and serve with the croutons round4 #efc4 ,snipes la minute4--,put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan1 over which lay six snipes1 breasts downwards1 add a spoonful of chopped onions1 the same of chopped parsley1 a little grated nutmeg1 half a teaspoonful of salt1 and a saltspoonful of white pepper2 set the stewpan over a brisk fire for seven or ten minutes 7according to the size of the birds71 stirring them round continually2 then add the juice of one lemon1 two glasses of sherry1 the same of broth1 and a spoonful of finely-grated crust of bread2 let the whole simmer a few minutes longer1 dress the birds upon a dish1 stir the sauce well together1 pour it over the snipes1 and serve2 a little glaze is an improvement4 #efd4 ,plovers saut with ,english ,truffles4--,procure four plovers1 which lay breasts downwards in a stewpan1 containing a quarter of a pound of butter1 to which add eight raw truffles1 well washed1 peeled1 and cut into very thin slices1 two cloves1 a bay-leaf1 half a teaspoonful of salt1 and a saltspoonful of pepper1 pass the whole ten minutes over a sharp fire1 stirring them round occasionally2 then well mix in half a tablespoonful of flour1 which moisten with half a pint of broth and a glass of white wine2 let the whole simmer at the corner of the fire twenty minutes longer1 keeping it well skimmed1 dress the birds upon a dish1 reduce the sauce to a proper consistency1 season with a little sugar and the juice of a lemon1 and pour it over the birds2 serve very hot4 #efe4 ,wild ,duck1 with ,orange ,sauce4--,having trussed your duck as for roasting1 rub it all over with the liver until quite red2 then put it down before a good fire to roast for twenty minutes1 after which cut eight incisions down the breast1 and have ready the following preparation3 put an ounce of butter into a stewpan1 with a quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne1 the rind of an orange 7free from pith1 previously cut into strips1 and blanched in boiling water1 and well drained upon a sieve71 and the juice of a lemon1 warm all together1 and when melted1 but not oily1 pour over the duck1 and serve4 #eff4 ,hashed ,wild ,duck4--,cut up the remains of a duck or ducks into neat pieces1 and put into a stewpan with half or a tablespoonful of flour 7depending on the quantity71 mix well1 moisten with a glass or two of wine1 and sufficient broth or water to make a thickish sauce1 season well1 add a little ,harvey sauce1 mushroom-catsup1 a little sugar1 and cayenne pepper2 let simmer1 but not boil1 take out the pieces1 which dress upon toast1 reduce the sauce1 pour over1 and serve4 ,a little coloring may be added1 if approved4 #efg4 ,widgeons4--,rub the breast of a widgeon over with a part of the liver1 chop up the remaining part1 to which add a few bread-crumbs1 a little chopped lemon-peel1 chopped parsley1 and an egg1 with which stuff the interior1 roast nearly as long as for the wild duck before a very sharp fire1 dress upon toast on a dish1 having ready the following sauce3 put half a glass of port wine into a stewpan1 with a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots1 a little salt1 pepper1 and cayenne1 boil a few minutes1 add the juice of a lemon1 and two ounces of fresh butter1 sauce over1 and serve4 ,widgeons are hashed the same as wild duck4 #efh4 ,teal1 a new method4--,procure four1 draw them2 then put half a pound of butter upon a plate1 with a little pepper1 grated nutmeg1 parsley1 a spoonful of grated crust of bread1 the juice of a lemon1 and the liver of the teal1 mix well together1 and with it fill the interior of the teal2 cover them with slices of lemon1 fold in thin slices of bacon1 then in paper1 and roast twenty minutes before a sharp fire2 take off the paper1 brown the bacon1 dress them upon a slice of thick toast1 letting the butter from the teal run over it1 and serve very hot4 #efi4 ,teal la sans faon4--,roast four teal quite plain1 prepare a quarter of a pound of butter as above1 with the omission of the livers1 which place in a stewpan over the fire1 stirring quickly1 until forming a kind of sauce1 add some fillets from the pulp of a lemon1 sauce over1 and serve4 ,the remains of teal also make excellent hash4 #egj4 ,larks la minute4--,proceed as directed for snipes la minute1 previously stuffing them with their livers as directed for widgeons1 adding a few mushrooms at the commencement2 but do not let them stew too quickly1 or the bottom will brown and give a bad flavor to the sauce2 seven minutes are quite sufficient to stew them4 #ega4 ,lark ,pie4--,cover the bottom of a pie-dish with thin slices of beef and fat bacon1 over which lay ten or twelve larks previously rolled in flour1 stuffed as above1 season with a teaspoonful of salt1 a quarter ditto of pepper1 one of chopped parsley1 and one of chopped eschalots1 lay a bay-leaf over1 add a gill of broth1 and cover with three quarters of a pound of half puff paste1 bake one hour in a moderate oven1 shake well to make the gravy in the pie form a kind of sauce1 and serve quite hot4 #egb4 ,jugged ,hare4--,put a quarter of a pound of butter1 with a pound of bacon cut into dice1 and the hare1 cut into pieces1 in a stewpan3 set upon a moderate fire until the pieces of hare are becoming firm1 when add six ounces of flour1 mix well1 and moisten with sufficient water to cover it3 add two glasses of any kind of wine1 and one of vinegar1 season high with pepper and salt1 let simmer until tender1 keeping well skimmed2 when done1 and the sauce becoming rather thick1 dress upon your dish1 and serve4 #egc4 ,jugged ,hare 7another way74--,put about half a pound of butter1 with ten ounces of flour1 into a stewpan1 put it on the fire1 and keep stirring it round until it has a yellow tinge2 then add a pound of bacon cut in square pieces1 stir it a little longer on the fire2 the hare having been previously cut up1 put it into the stewpan and stir it about until it becomes firm1 when add four glasses of port wine and sufficient water to cover it2 season1 and add two bay-leaves and four cloves1 and when half done1 about fifty button onions1 or ten large ones in slices1 a tablespoonful of brown sugar1 let it simmer until it is well done and the sauce rather thick2 dress up1 sauce over1 and serve4 ,if an old one1 it will take about four hours4 ,,roasts--,,second ,,course4 ,these dishes consist almost always of game1 which require to be sent up immediately they are taken from the fire1 and require great care and attention in cooking them4 ,in the following pages will be found many which are scarce and rarely seen in ,london1 and never mentioned in our various cookery books2 but considering that many of our friends reside in the country1 ,i have written it for them4 #egd4 ,turkey ,poults4--,turkey poults1 so called from being used when about the size of a large pullet1 are trussed with the legs turned at the knuckle and the feet pressing upon the thighs1 the neck is skinned and the head fixed under the wing2 roast them the same as directed for turkeys1 about twenty-five minutes or half an hour1 according to their size1 and in the same modes1 but they are usually served1 one larded and the other barded1 with gravy and water-cresses in the dish4 #ege4 ,roast ,capon with ,cresses4--,roast and serve a capon in any of the ways directed for turkeys1 roast of a nice gold color1 and serve with water-cresses round2 a capon weighing five pounds requires about three quarters of an hour to roast4 ,poularde au cresson1 exactly as above4 #egf4 ,roast ,pullet4--,for a dinner of four entres you would require two fowls1 but not too large2 truss and roast them as directed for a turkey1 judging the time required according to their size1 and serve with gravy and water-cresses2 they may be larded1 barded1 or served in any way mentioned in the foregoing receipts4 ,a fowl weighing two pounds and a half would require half an hour roasting1 or three quarters of an hour1 if larger4 #egg4 ,spring ,chickens are served like fowls1 generally plain roasted1 but they may be larded as the poularde4 ,be particular in tying the legs upon paper to the spit1 as directed for the turkey1 as it so improves their appearance when roasted4 ,about twenty minutes would be sufficient to roast them4 #egh4 ,goslings4--,a green goose roasted plain1 and served with a little gravy1 is generally sent up for second courses2 but if the larger ones are used1 they must be stuffed with sage and onions1 but very few would choose such a thing for a roast second course1 whilst green geese in their season are great favorites2 truss them by cutting off the leg at the knuckle1 and the wing at the first pinion1 fixing them at the side with skewers to throw the breast up2 a full-grown goose will take one hour to roast1 but a green one not more than half an hour4 #egi4 ,ducklings make a very favorite roast in the ,london season2 they must have good fillets1 white and plump1 and require to be a little more underdone than any other description of poultry2 if too much done1 the fat catches and gives a rank flavor to the flesh1 besides causing the fillets to eat dry4 ,they are usually served plain roasted for a second course1 yet ,i have served them differently upon some occasions for the sake of variety1 but it must be with a very thin sauce and one that invigorates the palate1 although they never can be better than when served plain roasted4 ,i shall here give one or two deviations3 truss them by twisting the legs at the knuckles and resting the feet upon the thighs1 cut the wing off at the first pinion and run a skewer through the bird1 fixing the pinion and legs with it1 place them upon a spit1 and roast twenty minutes4 #ehj4 ,guinea ,fowls4--,these birds must be very young1 for1 being naturally very dry1 they are not eatable if more than twelve months old2 they are generally larded or barded1 and served plain roasted1 rather well done2 they are trussed like the common fowls1 and require nearly three quarters of an hour to roast4 #eha4 ,pea ,fowls4--,these magnificent birds make a noble roast1 and when young are very excellent2 they are larded1 plain roasted1 and served with the tail stuck into the bird1 which you have preserved1 the head with its feathers being left folded up in paper1 and tucked under the wing2 roast about an hour and a half1 take the paper from the head and neck1 dress it upon your dish with water-cresses1 and the gravy and bread-sauce separate in a boat4 ,,game 7,,choice ,,of74--,there is no article of food that is so deceiving in appearance to know if it is young1 tender1 and good1 or not1 as game2 to a person living in the country1 where a member of the family has shot them in his day's sport or have been received as presents1 a knowledge how to distinguish them is requisite4 ,young birds may be distinguished by the softness of their quills2 females will eat better than males1 they are more tender and juicy4 ,old pheasants are known by the length and sharpness of their spurs1 in young ones they are short and blunt4--,old partridges before ,christmas have light-blue legs1 instead of yellow-brown4--,wild fowl may be known to be old from their bills and the stiffness of the sinews of the legs1 those that have the finest plumage are the worst eating4--,hares and rabbits3 try if the ear will easily tear and the jaw-bone break between the finger and the thumb1 if not they are only fit for soup or jugging4--,on receiving birds of all kinds1 put in their mouths three or four peppercorns bruised and one clove of garlic1 and pepper the place where shot4 ,in case you receive many1 tie a piece of paper to them with the date on which they were received4 #ehb4 ,pheasants4--,at the present day there are great varieties of these birds1 which differ as much in their flavor as their plumage4 ,there are also a large quantity of hybrids sold in market as a genuine pheasant1 and it is impossible to know them when plucked4 ,the flavor of the bird will depend in a great measure on the nature of the country where it is killed4 ,have them prepared and trussed3 put them about eighteen inches from the fire for five minutes1 then draw them close1 and roast as quickly as possible1 rubbing them all over with a little butter1 serve up with bread-sauce separate1 and good gravy under4 ,they are also good larded1 or one larded and the other barded4 #ehc4 ,partridges4--,the red-legged in this country are not so fine in flavor as the gray2 they are dressed like the pheasant1 but all the time at a very quick fire1 and serve very hot from the spit2 it is better to wait a minute or two for it than to have it wait for you2 dish it up with a little made gravy with it1 and bread-sauces1 as above4 #ehd4 ,grouse4--,these birds should be well kept1 trussed like a fowl for roasting1 and served with brown gravy under1 or may be dressed as follows3 truss as before1 covering the breast with vine leaves and fat bacon1 which tie on2 roast from half to three quarters of an hour according to size1 and serve with toast under1 and melted butter over4 #ehe4 ,red ,grouse1 ,gorcock or ,moorcock--the common ,moor ,game 7l',attagas74--,trussed like a fowl for roasting1 which cook quick before a sharp fire1 serve with toasted bread under4 #ehf4 ,white ,grouse or ,ptarmigan 7le ,lagopde74--,they are to be trussed like the above1 and plain roasted1 and served with toast under and fried bread-crumbs1 separate or dressed as follows3--,put two spoonfuls of currant-jelly in a stewpan1 with the juice of a lemon and a little salt dissolved in it2 when melted1 pour over and serve4 #ehg4 ,wild ,ducks 7,canard ,sauvage74--,the male is called the ,mallard1 and the young one ,flapper4 ,under the above title a great many birds are sold4 ,they should all be cooked alike2 they must be kept two or three days before they are dressed2 they are trussed by twisting each leg at the knuckle1 and resting the claws on each side of the breast1 fixing them with a skewer run through the thighs and pinions of the wings2 rub the liver over the breast1 roast them before a quick fire from fifteen to twenty minutes1 baste with butter1 not basting them when first put down will keep the gravy in2 one should be better done than the other1 in order to suit the taste of those at table2 serve with made gravy under1 and a lemon separate4 #ehh4 ,widgeon1 ,whewer1 or ,whim 7le ,canard ,siffleur74--,these should be eaten fresher than a ,wild ,duck1 trussed1 dressed1 and served the same2 fifteen minutes is sufficient before a good fire4 #ehi4 ,dunbird1 ,pochard1 or ,great-headed ,widgeon 7,pnlope1 le ,millouin74--,in some parts1 ,red ,heads1 ,parkers1 or ,half ,birds4 ,these are dressed as above1 but are not so good as the ,widgeon4 #eij4 ,teal 7la petite ,sarcelle74--,this is a delicious bird when fat1 which they generally are after a frost4 ,they must be trussed with care like ducklings2 they will take about eight minutes to roast2 serve with gravy1 water-cresses1 and lemon1 separate1 about six on a dish2 or with sauces ,nos4 #ada1 #adc4 #eia4 ,garganey 7la ,sarcelle74--,these are called ,summer ,teal1 resemble it in shape1 and are dressed the same way4 #eib4 ,plover4--,of these there are several sorts1 all of which are good to eat at certain seasons4 ,they should be well kept1 but not too long1 trussed gently1 but not drawn1 and put on a skewer1 place them a little distance from a sharp fire1 with a bit of toast under to catch the trail1 baste with a little good butter1 ten minutes is sufficient2 dress them with toast under1 and serve with gravy separate4 ,they may also be served barded with vine leaves and very thin bacon4 #eic4--,woodcock 7la ,bcasse74--,this is a most delicious bird when well cooked2 they must not be kept too long2 they are fit for cooking when they become black between the legs1 and the feathers are rather loose2 truss them with the legs twisted at the knuckles1 and the feet pressing upon the thighs1 bring the pinion of the wing to the thigh1 having previously skinned the neck and head2 bring the beak round under the wing1 which pass through the pinions of the wings and thighs4 ,place four on a skewer1 tie them on a spit1 and roast before a sharp fire from ten to fifteen minutes1 placing toast under to catch the trail2 when done1 serve on the toast and a very little gravy3 they may also be barded with thin slices of bacon over the breast1 and served with a sauce of fumet de gibier4 #eid4 ,snipes4--,they are dressed in every respect like ,woodcocks2 and from seven to ten minutes is sufficient4 ,they may likewise be fried in plenty of oil1 and served with sauces ,nos4 #aca1 #adc4 #eie4 ,larks 7l',alouette74--,they are best in winter when very fat2 they are roasted plain or with a thin slice of bacon and a leaf of celery tied over them2 they require about eight minutes1 and served with a little gravy and bread-crumbs1 they are also used in pies 7see ,pigeon ,pie72 and may be dressed like ,snipes4 #eif4 ,quail 7la ,caille74--,should be killed at least forty-eight hours before they are wanted2 they should then be plucked1 singed1 drawn1 and trussed by cutting off the wings at the first pinion1 leaving the feet1 and fixing the pinion and the wings with a very small skewer2 cover the breast with vine leaves and a slice of fat bacon1 and run a skewer through the pinions and thighs of each3 tie on a spit and roast for ten to twelve minutes before a sharp fire4 ,they should be served a nice gold color in a dish with a little gravy2 they may also be trussed as above1 and put into a pig's caul1 and roasted and served with either sauces ,nos4 #ada1 #fja4 #eig4 ,rabbits4--,there are two sorts1 the tame and wild2 the wild or gray inhabits the mountainous districts2 has the finest flavor1 or on those places where it can feed on thyme1 geneva1 or other aromatic herbs1 or on the sea coast1 where he gets the lichen or wild moss4 ,it has a much darker color than the tame4 ,the tame rabbit1 if properly fed #ba days before killing1 may be made a very delicate article of nourishment2 it should be kept from two to four days4 ,when killed it should be removed to a cold place as quick as possible1 that the fat may set4 ,if old1 the claws will be long and rough1 the coat rough and gray hairs mixed with it4 ,if young1 the claws and wool smooth4 ,if stale1 the flesh will be slimy and a bluish color2 if fresh1 it will be stiff1 and the flesh white and dry4 #eih4 ,hares4--,one is sufficient for a roast1 skin and truss it nicely1 stuff the interior with a good veal stuffing1 sew it up1 then put it on the spit1 rub butter over the back and shake flour over it1 roast it about forty minutes before a sharp fire1 but that depends upon the size1 of course2 serve them with plain gravy in the dish and currant jelly separate4 ,they are also served with a sauce poivrade1 or sweet sauce2 they may also be larded4 #eii4 ,leverets are plain roasted and do not require stuffing1 nor so long roasting1 being smaller2 they are usually served with plain gravy1 but may be served with either of the sauces mentioned in the last2 you require two for a roast4 ,they will take from twenty-five to thirty minutes roasting4 ,they may be larded1 for a change4 #fjj4 ,wild ,fowl ,sauce4--,the following is a good sauce2 the quantities are given for one wild duck4 ,walnut catsup one tablespoonful2 the same of ,harvey's or ,worcestershire sauce1 the same of lemon-juice1 a wine-glass of red wine1 a good slice of lemon-peel1 one eschalot minced1 half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper1 one blade of mace1 and a wine-glassful of gravy2 boil ten minutes1 serve very hot1 and pour over the bird when cut up4 #fja4 ,fumet de ,gibier ,sauce4--,take the remains or bones of game 7the back-bones of grouse are best71 chop them up small1 put them in a stewpan1 with a glass of white wine1 an onion1 a small piece of carrot and of turnip sliced1 a leaf of celery1 a sprig of thyme1 the same of parsley1 a bay-leaf1 a clove1 half a blade of mace2 stir over the fire five minutes1 then add a quart of brown sauce1 if too thick add some water1 boil for about twenty minutes1 skim1 strain1 and serve2 a little lemon-juice and cayenne pepper may be added if approved of4 ,,savory ,,dishes4 #fjb4 ,veal and ,ham ,pies 7raised74--,the following few dishes will be found extremely useful for breakfasts1 luncheons1 second course in a dinner party1 or for dinner in summer1 but above all for supper when you give an evening party4 ,having found a great difficulty in raising the crust for a pie with my hands1 ,i purchased for a trifle a tin pie-mould1 by the use of which the process is more simple1 and the pie retains its shape whilst baking1 and secures the gravy1 much better4 ,well wipe and butter the interior of the mould1 then have ready two pounds of pte fine1 rather firm than otherwise1 two thirds of which roll out to fit the mould1 press it evenly over the interior1 raising the paste half an inch above the edge of the mould1 you have previously prepared six pounds of veal1 cut from the fillet1 as follows3 cut four pounds into pieces an inch square1 and as nearly as possible to the length of the pie2 with the remainder make some forcemeat 7see ,receipt72 then run eight pieces of fat bacon1 each two inches in length1 and a quarter of an inch square1 through each piece of veal2 have also two pounds of lean bacon1 cut into pieces of nearly the same size as the veal1 then put a quarter of a pound of butter into a frying-pan1 and when melted over the fire1 lay in the veal and bacon1 season rather highly with a teaspoonful of salt1 the same of pepper1 half that quantity of grated nutmeg1 and a tablespoonful each of chopped onion and parsley1 saut the whole a quarter of an hour1 occasionally turning the meat1 until getting of a nice color1 and the bottom of the pan is covered with a thickish glaze2 then line the interior of the pie with some of the forcemeat1 to the thickness of half an inch1 after which lay three pieces of veal at the bottom with two of the ham1 alternately1 which cover over with more forcemeat1 to about an inch in thickness1 then more veal and bacon1 with forcemeat1 again proceeding thus until full1 finishing with the forcemeat1 forming a dome about an inch above the edge of the paste1 and lay a pat of butter with a bay-leaf at the top1 then mould the remainder of the paste into a ball1 which roll to the size of the top of the pie1 wet the edges with a little egg1 lay on the cover1 which press down with the thumbs1 working the edge up gracefully with the thumb and forefinger1 to about an inch above the top of the mould1 cutting some of the paste away where too thick1 and crimp the extreme edge with a pair of paste nippers2 then have ready half a pound of puff paste1 which roll to about the thickness of about a quarter of an inch1 from which cut a piece the size and form of the dome of the pie1 upon which place it to form a lid 7previously wetting the top with a little water71 press it down lightly1 egg over with a paste-brush1 edges as well1 make a small hole with a knife at the top1 and carve any design upon the puff paste according to fancy2 tie a band of buttered paper round the mould1 an inch above the pie1 put it into a moderate oven to bake about two hours1 but to be certain if done1 run a pointed knife or trussing needle into the centre1 and if it feels tender it is sufficiently baked4 ,then take it from the oven1 and pour in a gill of strong gravy1 in which you have dissolved a little isinglass 7especially if in summer72 when cold1 take it from the mould 7which opens at one end by drawing out a pin71 and serve upon a napkin1 garnished round with parsley4 ,to carve1 cut it into slices1 the whole breadth of the pie and half an inch in thickness4 ,such a pie as above would weigh four pounds when baked2 but should you require a smaller one1 diminish the proportions accordingly4 ,if no puff paste1 the top might be ornamented with a few leaves from the trimmings of the other paste4 ,i have given you the above receipt very minutely1 as the above applies to every description of raised pie1 the difference only being its contents4 #fjc4 ,raised ,pie of ,fowls4--,make the paste and forcemeat as in the last1 but instead of veal and ham1 bone a young fowl as directed for galantine1 which lay flat upon a clean cloth1 breast downwards1 season the interior with a little pepper1 salt1 and chopped onions2 spread a layer of forcemeat over1 half an inch in thickness1 have ten pieces of veal of the thickness of your finger1 and the same length as the fowl1 and the same number of pieces of fat bacon1 lay half of the veal and bacon alternately upon the fowl1 well seasoned with pepper and salt1 cover over with more forcemeat1 then another layer of veal and ham1 cover with more forcemeat1 then roll the fowl over1 making the skin meet at the back1 you have previously lined a raised pie-mould with paste1 then line the pie with forcemeat1 half an inch in thickness1 lay in the fowl1 sprinkle a little pepper and salt over1 cover with the remainder of the forcemeat1 to form a dome1 place a pat of butter and two bay-leaves upon the top1 finish and bake precisely as in the last3 when done1 pour in a gill of gravy made from the bones of the fowl2 serve cold4 #fjd4 ,raised ,pie of ,pheasant4--,proceed precisely as for the pie of fowl1 but of course using a pheasant1 an old one would answer the purpose if kept long enough1 but all the sinews of the legs must be taken out in boning it1 the fillets of the breast also1 being very thick1 may be partly cut out and used with the veal for the interior2 if in a situation to obtain rabbits1 the fillets of them might be used instead of veal for the interior1 and the legs for forcemeat4 ,for gravy1 break up the bones of the birds1 which put into a stewpan with a glass of sherry1 an onion1 a few sprigs of thyme1 parsley1 and a bay-leaf2 let it simmer a minute over the fire1 then add a pint of broth and a little isinglass or gelatine1 let the whole simmer for an hour1 giving it a nice brown color1 when pass it through a sieve into a smaller stewpan1 place it again upon the fire1 skim off all the fat1 and reduce it to half a pint1 and when the pie is baked1 pour it in1 shaking the pie a little to mix well2 serve when cold4 ,pies of grouse1 partridges1 moor fowls1 c4 are made precisely in the same manner1 using one or more according to the size you wish to make your pie4 ,the fillets of hares are likewise excellent in pies1 whilst the legs might be jugged or converted into soup4 ,capons1 poulards1 green geese1 or ducklings may also be served in a pie by proceeding as directed for fowls1 but managing the size of the pie1 and seasoning in proportion4 ,pigeon pie can also be made in the same way1 but then the meat with which the interior of the birds is filled must be cut much smaller1 and require less time in cooking4 #fje4 ,simple method of making ,pies4--,make two pounds of flour into a paste1 as ,no4 #fjb1 and also two pounds of forcemeat1 mould three quarters of the paste into a ball1 which1 with a rolling-pin1 roll to about half an inch in thickness and of an oval shape2 lay half the forcemeat in the centre1 which spread over to within two inches of the rim1 having prepared and sautd some veal and ham as directed for the veal and ham pie1 ,no4 #fjb1 lay them alternately upon the forcemeat1 with which again cover the meat1 laying a pat of butter and a bay-leaf upon the top2 roll out the remainder of the paste of an oval shape1 but much thinner than the other1 damp the paste around with a little water1 and lay the sheet of paste over1 pressing it down with the finger and thumb1 then wet the top1 and bring up the paste at the sides1 which will stick to it1 thus forming a long square pie1 with the trimmings of the paste form a few leaves1 with which decorate it according to fancy1 egg the whole well over1 make a hole in the top1 and bake two hours in a moderate oven2 when done1 pour in the gravy1 as for pies made in moulds1 and put by to serve cold4 ,a square piece of puff paste laid upon the top1 and ornamented previous to baking1 is also a great improvement4 ,some gravy1 as above1 may of course be introduced4 ,you will perceive1 my dear ,eloise1 from this one receipt1 that any kind of poultry1 game1 or meat pies1 might be made in the same manner4 ,to carve1 they should be cut across in thin slices through paste and all4 ,when we are alone ,i frequently make a very small one for luncheon1 generally grating half a pound of sausage meat1 with which ,i mix an egg and a little chopped eschalots1 frying the veal or lean bacon or ham1 and proceeding as for the larger ones2 from three quarters of an hour to an hour would be sufficient to bake it2 at times ,i make it with a pigeon1 partridge1 or two plovers stuffed1 and surrounded with forcemeat1 but boned3 they are very excellent hot4 #fjf4 ,tureen of ,game4--,i bought the other day a common earthen tureen1 for which ,i gave ninepence2 ,i made some forcemeat precisely the same as for pies1 boned a grouse and stuffed it as for a pheasant pie1 and seasoning the same2 ,i then lined the tureen with the forcemeat1 laid in the bird1 which ,i again covered with the remainder of the forcemeat1 put two pats of butter and a bay-leaf upon the top1 then placed on the cover1 fixing it down with a band of common paste laid inside upon the rim of the tureen1 and baked it three hours in a moderate oven1 and when ,i opened it about a week afterwards it was most delicious2 when served to table the cover should be taken off1 the bay-leaf removed1 and a few fresh water-cresses laid over4 ,all sorts of game1 poultry1 and meat1 ,i have done in the same way2 it is quickly done and very good and economical1 as it will keep a long time4 #fjg4 ,galantines4--,having twice failed in the attempt to make this difficult dish1 ,i was about to relinquish the idea1 but having received a small turkey about two months back1 ,i could not resist making another attempt1 in which ,i succeeded2 it is rather expensive1 but it is a beautiful dish for supper4 ,after having plucked1 and singed off the hairs with a piece of lighted paper1 ,i laid it breast downwards upon a clean cloth1 and with a sharp-pointed knife boned it as follows3 first1 just pass the point of the knife through the skin1 which cut open straight down the back-bone1 then proceed to clear the flesh from the bones of the carcase until you come to the breast-bone1 disjointing the wings and legs as you proceed2 very carefully detach the breast-bone from the flesh without cutting through the skin1 when you may remove the carcase with the interior of the turkey2 then proceed to take the bones from the legs and wings1 which is not quite so difficult2 for the legs1 scrape the first bone free from the flesh to below the first joint1 where chop it off2 cut the flesh round over the knuckle and pull the foot1 when the remainder of the bone and sinews will come together2 then cut off the wings at the first pinion1 and the remaining bone is quickly scraped away4 ,i can assure you ,i found this quite a job the first and second time1 but it is very essential to learn1 as all kinds of poultry and game are boned in the same manner1 and to this description all references upon the subject must be made throughout our little work4 ,you have prepared four pounds of forcemeat1 as for pies1 also have long strips of veal1 ham1 and fat bacon1 which well season with salt1 pepper1 and chopped eschalots2 put a layer of the forcemeat an inch thick down the bird1 leaving two inches upon each side uncovered1 then some of the veal1 bacon1 and cooked ham alternately1 which again cover with forcemeat1 but not exceeding half an inch in thickness 7as too much forcemeat between the meat would spoil its appearance71 proceeding thus until sufficient to fill the skin of the bird1 when pull over the flaps1 and sew it up tightly with a packing needle and small string1 and tie it up in a napkin4 ,if any1 a few strips of cooked tongue1 and blanched pistachios1 laid in alternately with the veal and bacon1 greatly improves its flavor and appearance4 ,to cook4 ,put in a stewpan with two onions1 a carrot1 half a head of celery1 two cloves1 a blade of mace1 a good bunch of parsley1 thyme1 and bay-leaves1 a knuckle of veal1 the bones of the turkey1 two calf's feet1 two ounces of salt1 add sufficient water to cover the whole1 and set the stewpan upon the fire until upon the point of boiling2 then draw it to the corner1 skim1 and let simmer for three hours2 then take it from the fire1 leaving it in the stock until nearly cold2 then take it out1 remove the string from the napkin1 and roll the galantine up tighter1 tying the napkin again at each end only2 then place it upon a dish1 the breast part upwards1 set another dish upon it1 on which place a fourteen pounds weight1 which will press and cause it to cut firm2 when quite cold it is ready to serve1 having removed the napkin and the string with which it was sewed3 the stock1 however1 should be clarified as directed in the next receipt to make a savory jelly1 which1 when cold and firm1 is cut in croutons and chopped1 with which the galantine should be tastefully garnished4 ,although at first ,i had some difficulty with this receipt1 ,i can now see the variety to which it leads1 as the same process answers for fowls1 green geese1 ducklings1 pheasants1 grouse1 partridges1 c41 using game with the veal or pork for the interior1 and stewing them according to their size1 the bones of game being stewed with the stock would give the flavor to the savory jelly4 #fjh4 ,to ,clarify ,meat ,jelly4--,having passed the stock 7made as in the last7 through a sieve into a basin1 leave it until quite cold2 then take off all the fat very carefully1 ascertain if sufficiently or too stiff by putting a small piece upon ice2 savory jelly requires to be rather stiffer than sweet1 if too stiff add a little more broth1 if the contrary1 the stock must be reduced upon the fire until of the proper consistency4 ,when the stock is boiling1 and you are perfectly assured of its strength1 have the white of four eggs with their shells in a basin1 with half a pint of water1 two spoonfuls of tarragon or common vinegar1 and a glass of sherry1 whisk all together2 then whisk the stock quickly a few seconds1 and pour in the other ingredients whilst whisking1 continue whisking a few minutes until again upon the point but not boiling2 then take it from the fire1 and taste if palatable1 place a cover upon the stewpan1 which stand a little distance from the fire1 putting a few red-hot cinders upon the lid for five minutes1 tie a napkin by the four corners upon a jelly stand1 through which pass the jelly1 having a basin beneath to catch it1 pour the first that runs through again into the napkin until it runs quite clear2 when all through1 pour it in a plain mould or saut-pan1 which place upon ice until the jelly is quite firm2 then dip the bottom of the mould in hot water1 turn the jelly out upon a cloth1 and cut it into whatever shapes you please1 to garnish and ornament any cold savory dish2 the jelly when warm might be divided1 one part kept white1 and the other colored with a little brown gravy or coloring1 thus enabling you to variegate in garnishing4 ,should the jelly be required to ornament tongues1 hams1 pies1 salads1 or any article when no galantine is made2 then to make the stock1 cut the veal into small pieces1 and split the calf's foot in two1 put a quarter of a pound of butter in a convenient-sized stewpan1 with the veal1 foot1 a small piece of lean ham1 and the other ingredients as directed for galantine1 pour in half a pint of water1 put on the lid and stand it upon the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze2 then add a gallon of water1 let simmer three hours1 keeping it well skimmed2 then pass and clarify as above4 ,the knuckle of veal and foot may be served hot with a little parsley and butter1 for a dinner previous to your party1 with a little fried bacon separately1 but for my own part ,i prefer them plain as they leave the stewpan4 #fji4 ,cold ,ham4--,procure a very nice but small ham of about nine pounds in weight1 which soak about ten hours in cold water1 and simmer three hours in plenty of water2 when done1 take out and let remain until cold2 then cut off the skin as thinly as possible1 but without leaving the marks of it2 let a piece remain upon the knuckle about two inches and a half in breadth1 which either festoon or vandyke1 carve the fat neatly to form a shell1 and glaze it over lightly1 serve with a paper frill upon the knuckle1 and garnish with savory jelly1 or if plain with a few bunches of fresh green parsley4 ,a handful of fresh hay put in the water when boiling is an improvement4 #faj4 ,cold ,tongue4--,boil a nice ox tongue for three hours1 and1 when done1 take off all the skin1 and truss it of a good shape1 by placing the root against some fixture1 and running a fork through the middle of the thin part into the board upon which it stands2 when cold trim and glaze it lightly over1 cutting off the greater part of the root1 place it upon a dish1 garnished either with savory jelly or fresh sprigs of parsley4 #faa4 ,galantine of ,veal4--,when ,i do not like to go to the expense of a turkey or other poultry for a galantine1 ,i procure a small breast of veal1 and take out the tendons1 which ,i stew2 take out the remaining bones1 and trim the meat to about fifteen inches in length and eight in width1 using the trimmings for a ragout2 season the interior of the breast1 and proceed to lay on the forcemeat veal1 ham1 and bacon1 as directed for the galantine of turkey1 roll and sew it up1 tie in a cloth1 braise1 and afterwards press it in precisely the same manner2 when quite cold1 glaze it nicely and serve1 garnished with savory jelly2 or1 if for a large supper1 six or eight small dishes might be made from it by cutting it into thin slices crosswise1 and dressing six pieces in a border upon each dish1 with a little jelly in the middle1 or if no jelly1 a sprig of parsley or water-cresses2 but if served in the latter way1 ,i introduce two ounces of blanched pistachios4 ,when making the galantine1 of course1 the dishes must be placed at a distance from each other at various parts of the table4 ,i have also made a galantine of a shoulder of lamb in the same way1 previously taking out the bones4 #fab4 ,cold ,fillet of ,veal4--,roast braise as ,no4 #ceh2 when cold1 trim neatly1 and garnish with jelly or parsley4 ,a loin of veal larded through the fleshy part with raw ham1 and fat bacon1 and roasted as above1 makes a very delicate dish4 ,a small shoulder of veal might be boned the same as a shoulder of lamb1 and made into a galantine4 #fac4 ,ribs of ,beef larded4--,choose a piece of beef with about four ribs1 and cut very long1 carefully take away the bones1 lard the fleshy part through with strips of fat bacon1 well seasoned with pepper1 salt1 and chopped parsley2 spread some veal stuffing over1 and roll it round1 keeping the stuffing in the interior1 tie it up with string1 and roast in vegetables as in the last article1 leaving it to cool in the vegetables2 when cold1 glaze and serve1 garnished with sprigs of parsley4 ,the beef well rubbed with garlic and well seasoned with salt and pepper1 previous to spreading on the stuffing1 would be a great improvement4 ,i sometimes leave the bones in the meat1 lard the fleshy part1 and afterwards roast it in vegetables to serve cold4 #fad4 ,pressed ,beef4--,procure a piece of brisket of beef1 cut off the bones1 and salt it as directed 7,no4 #fae71 but adding a little extra sal prunella to the brine and a little spice2 let the beef remain in pickle rather better than a week3 when ready to cook1 roll it round1 tie it in a cloth1 and let it simmer gently in plenty of water1 about seven hours if a whole one1 but four hours if only the thin end2 when done take it up1 remove the string1 and tie the cloth at each end1 put it upon a dish with another dish over1 upon which place half a hundred-weight1 leaving it until quite cold1 then take the meat from the cloth1 trim and glaze it lightly1 and serve garnished with a few sprigs of fresh parsley4 #fae4 ,pickle for ,beef la ,garrick4--,take twenty pounds of salt1 three quarters of a pound of saltpetre1 four cakes of sal prunella1 two pounds of moist sugar1 two cloves of garlic1 with which rub the meat well1 and leave it rather more than a week1 rubbing and turning it over every day4 ,this pickle is adapted for anything that is required red4 #faf4 ,spiced ,beef4--,procure a piece of thin flank of beef about ten pounds in weight1 which salt as the last for about a week2 when ready1 split it open with a knife and lay it out flat upon a dresser1 having previously prepared six onions chopped very fine1 with about ten sprigs of parsley1 and the leaves of ten sprigs of thyme1 the same of marjoram1 two ounces of mixed spice 7without cinnamon71 and half an ounce of black pepper1 mix altogether1 spread half upon the beef as it lays before you1 then fold it over to its original shape1 lay on the remainder of the preparation1 roll it up tightly in a cloth1 boil1 press1 and serve as directed in the last article4 #fag4 ,pig's ,head in imitation of ,wild ,boar's ,head4--,this you will say is not only a difficult dish to do1 but a very expensive one4 ,you are right when you are obliged to buy the pig to possess the head2 but in a small farm-house where they kill a pig perhaps once a year at ,christmas1 the head can be very easily cut off for this purpose4 ,being on a visit some years since at a farm-house1 ,i had the opportunity of having one1 and trying my skill upon it2 it was much approved of1 both for its ferocious appearance1 and its flavor1 and it lasted good for three weeks4 ,the following is the way you should do it3 procure the head with as much of the neck attached to it as possible 7the hog must have been stabbed in the neck1 not hit on the head as that would have broken the skull72 then singe it well over the flame of a fire1 then wipe it with a cloth1 scrape well with a knife without scratching the skin1 and place it on a cloth upon its skull2 open it very carefully without piercing the skin1 leaving no flesh whatever upon the bones2 bone the neck of the pig1 and cut it into small fillets two inches long1 place the head on a board and rub it with half a pound of brown sugar1 let it remain for one hour2 then place it in a salting tub1 and throw over it six pounds of salt1 place in two quarts of ale1 four bay-leaves1 half an ounce of peppercorns1 a quarter ditto of cloves1 six blades of mace1 eight sliced onions1 ten sprigs of thyme1 ten of winter savory1 and two sliced carrots2 stir it well up1 and let it remain for two hours2 then pour over the head1 which turn every day for eight or ten days1 rubbing it well2 when sufficiently salted1 take it out and dry it on a cloth1 lay the head straight before you1 skin side upwards2 have ready six or eight pounds of forcemeat1 but using pork instead of veal1 with which cover the head an inch in thickness at the thinnest part2 put the fillets cut from the neck in a layer lengthwise in the head1 with a long piece of fat bacon1 half an inch square1 between each1 sprinkle a little chopped eschalots1 pepper1 salt1 and grated nutmeg over1 and continue filling with forcemeat and the other ingredients until you have used the whole1 finishing by covering forcemeat over2 join the two cheeks together with the above in the interior1 sew it up with pack-thread1 giving it the shape of the head as much as possible1 and fold it in one or two large thin cloths1 leaving the ears out and upright4 ,braise as follows3 ,put half a pound of butter in a large braising-pan or stock-pot1 over which put four pounds of trimmings of pork or knuckle of veal1 eight onions1 two carrots1 four turnips1 eight bay-leaves1 a tablespoonful of peppercorns1 twelve cloves1 ten sprigs of thyme1 ten of marjoram1 four blades of mace1 half a bottle of bucellas wine1 and four calf's feet1 place it upon a sharp fire1 stirring it occasionally1 until the bottom is covered with a clearish glaze1 then add four gallons of water and half a pound of salt2 when boiling draw it to the corner of the stove1 skim1 and put in the head1 the ears uppermost1 and let simmer seven or eight hours1 or according to the size and age of the pig2 but the better plan would be to try it with a trussing-needle2 if tender it is done2 skim the stock1 in which leave the head until half cold1 when take it out1 partly undo the cloths1 and tie it again tighter if possible1 and press it in a cover or upon a baking-sheet with three flat pieces of wood1 one at each side1 with a weight against them1 and one upon the top between the ears1 on which place a fourteen pounds weight1 let it remain all night until quite cold1 when take it out of the cloths1 detach the thread it was sewn up with1 cut a piece an inch in thickness from behind the ears 7from which part it must be carved in as thin slices as possible71 it will have a marbled appearance2 trim the head a little1 setting the ears in a proper position1 glaze it with a brownish glaze1 form the eyes with a little lard and a few black currants round1 and the tusks with paste1 baking them2 have some very fresh tulips and roses1 which stick tastefully in the ears and some around1 but leaving space to carve2 garnish boldly with croutons1 aspic1 made from the stock clarified as directed 7,no4 #fjh72 the meat and the calf's foot may be used for different dishes1 see receipts4 ,the second one ,i had ,i boiled plainer1 merely a little salt and a few vegetables2 it was very good1 but not so rich in flavor as the other2 thus saving expense and trouble4 ,they should be eaten with the following sauce3 ,boar's ,head ,sauce4--,cut the rind 7free from pith7 of two ,seville oranges into very thin strips half an inch in length1 which blanch in boiling water1 drain them upon a sieve1 and put them into a basin1 with a spoonful of mixed ,english mustard1 four of currant jelly1 a little pepper1 salt 7mix well together71 and half a pint of good port wine4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,xv ,,dear ,,eloise1--,to you1 who are so fond of lobster1 the following receipt will1 ,i am confident1 prove most valuable4 ,to make sure of its quality1 buy one heavy in proportion to its size2 or1 perhaps1 entre nous1 you would prefer to wait until a friend presented you with one4 ,,lobster4--,this fish1 which is continually before our eyes1 and only looked upon as an article of food1 is1 without doubt1 one of the wonders of the creation4 ,a creature destitute of bones1 yet furnished with a stomach capable of digesting the hardest substances1 even its own shell1 which it doffs once a year1 when it is too small for it2 without blood circulating through its body1 yet strong and active4 ,this is only one of those wonders of the mighty deep that we cannot but regard with awe and veneration1 and yet the principal interest they do excite is when we visit a shell-fish shop to choose the largest and best for the smallest price4 ,they are1 without doubt1 a very nourishing aliment1 and are by many supposed to have a particular season1 but which ,i believe not to be the case1 as ,i have known them in and out of season on the same ground4 ,when out of season1 the pea or spawn is very large1 and about being hatched2 immediately after which it sheds its shell1 and not its stomach1 as is by many supposed4 ,when in season1 and fine-flavored1 it should have no spawn1 or very little1 under the tail2 and when its body is squeezed between the fingers it should not give1 but be hard2 its weight will also be a test1 as it is a fish which wastes very much when kept long alive without food3 great care must be observed in the boiling of it4 ,a number should be placed at one time in a basket1 and that placed in boiling water1 adding half a pound of salt to every gallon of water1 with a heavy weight upon it2 if overdone1 they eat tough and thready2 if underdone1 unwholesome and unpalatable4 ,one weighing a pound will take fifteen minutes1 and so on in proportion4 #fah4 ,gratin of ,lobster4--,procure a good-sized lobster1 cut it in half1 detaching the head from the body2 take out all the meat1 and save the four shells2 cut the meat into slices1 then take a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stewpan1 with a piece of butter the size of two walnuts1 pass them a few minutes over the fire1 add a tablespoonful of flour 7mix well in71 half a pint of milk1 stir over the fire1 boiling about five minutes1 then add the lobster1 which season with a little cayenne1 salt1 chopped parsley1 and essence of anchovies2 stand it again upon the fire1 stirring until boiling1 then stir in the yolk of an egg2 take off the fire1 fill the shells of the lobster1 sprinkle bread-crumbs over1 with a little butter1 put in the oven for twenty minutes2 dish on a napkin and serve4 ,to give it a nice color1 use the salamander4 #fai4 ,miroton ,salad of ,lobster4--,prepare and ornament a border of eggs1 like for that of game1 put a thick layer of fresh salad in the centre1 and dress over it in a crown1 the lobster interspersed with slices of eggs and gherkins4 ,the lobster must be divided in two across the back1 extract the meat carefully out of it1 and cut it in a round or slanting direction to the thickness of a crown piece1 break the claws and cut the same way1 and place on salad as above1 so as to form a thick crown near the border of eggs1 then take the interior of the lobster1 pound it and pass it through a fine sieve1 add to your sauce4 ,any other kind of fish1 as cod fish1 c41 when cold1 cut or break them in slices1 lay them in a basin1 season over with salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 slices of onion1 parsley1 a little oil and vinegar2 put it in two hours before serving1 and proceed as for lobster4 ,if there is any fish left from the previous day1 ,i always make a salad of it1 particularly in summer2 there are many who object to so much oil1 in which case it may be diminished4 #fbj4 ,salad ,tartar4--,make as usual the border of eggs and sauce1 lay the salad in the middle and the lobster over1 which has been previously cut in slices2 pour over some of the same sauce as above1 having added a tablespoonful of ,french mustard to it4 ,gherkins cut in slices1 and a few stoned olives4 #fba4 ,plain ,salad4--,take a lobster and any kind of salad1 wash it well1 dry in a cloth1 cut the lobster up in a salad-bowl1 sprinkle over it a teaspoonful of salt1 half that of pepper1 one of chopped tarragon or chervil1 or parsley1 if nothing better1 four tablespoonfuls of oil1 and two of common vinegar1 but only one and a half if ,french1 add the salad1 stir lightly round with a wooden knife and fork1 and it is ready4 #fbb4 ,lobster served plain4--,break the tail from the body1 cut the tail in two lengthwise1 put the body in the middle of the dish1 lay the half tail top and bottom1 and the claws on the side2 the shell previously broken1 but not disfigured1 and serve double parsley round4 #fbc4 ,lobster ,salad4--,dress a border of hard-boiled eggs1 as directed in salad of game 7,no4 #fbh71 fill the centre with some nice fresh salad1 then take the flesh from a middling-sized lobster1 which cut into as large slices as possible1 which put into a basin1 and season with a little pepper1 salt1 oil1 and vinegar1 after which dress them pyramidically upon the salad1 and have ready the following sauce3 put the yolks of two fresh eggs in a basin1 with the yolk of a hard-boiled one rubbed through a sieve1 add half a saltspoonful of salt1 and half that quantity of white pepper1 and commence stirring round with a wooden spoon with the right hand1 holding a bottle of salad oil in the left1 dropping it in by degrees and continually stirring1 and when becoming thickish add a couple of spoonfuls of common vinegar by degrees1 still keeping it stirred1 then more oil1 proceeding thus until you have used three parts of a pint of oil1 and a corresponding quantity of vinegar1 by continually working1 it will form a stiffish cream-looking sauce perfectly smooth2 add a little more seasoning if required1 and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 with half that quantity of chopped eschalots1 pour over the lobster and serve4 ,should the sauce curdle in making1 the operation must be again performed1 putting a yolk of an egg into another basin1 working it with a little oil until forming a stiffish paste1 when stir in the curdled sauce by degrees until the whole becomes smooth2 always choose a cool place to make it in4 #fbd4 ,fish ,salads4--,all fish salads are made precisely as in the last1 but with the exception of fillets of sole salad1 are made from the remains of fish from a previous dinner1 especially turbot and salmon2 but for fillets of soles they must be dressed thus3-- ,when filleted1 melt an ounce of butter in a saut-pan1 lay the fillets in1 season with pepper and salt1 and the juice of half a lemon2 saut them on a slow fire until done1 which may be from four to five minutes1 and put by to get cold2 cut in middle-sized pieces1 and use as lobster4 #fbe4 ,new ,mayonnaise ,sauce4--,put a quarter of a pint of melted aspic upon ice in a stewpan1 which keep whisking until becoming a white froth1 then add half a pint of salad oil and six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar1 by degrees1 first oil and then vinegar1 continually whisking until it forms a white smooth sauce1 to all appearance like a cream2 season with half a teaspoonful of salt1 a quarter ditto of pepper1 and a little sugar1 whisk it a little more1 and it is ready to serve2 it is usually dressed pyramidically over the article it is served with4 ,the advantage of this sauce 7which is more delicate than any other7 is1 that you may dress it to any height you like and it will remain so for a long time2 if the temperature is not too hot it will remain hours without melting or appearing greasy4 #fbf4 ,tartar ,sauce4--,rub the yolk of a cold hard-boiled egg through a hair sieve into a basin1 to which add the yolks of two raw eggs1 with a little salt and pepper2 mix all together with a wooden spoon2 have a pint of good salad oil in a bottle1 hold it with the left hand over the basin1 dropping it in very gradually1 and with the right continue stirring it round until it becomes rather thick1 then moisten it with a little tarragon vinegar1 still keeping it stirred1 then more oil1 and so on until you have used all the oil1 keeping it rather thick2 then add a tablespoonful of finely chopped gherkins1 half a ditto of chopped capers1 half a ditto of chopped eschalots1 and the same of chopped parsley1 two of ,french mustard1 a little cayenne pepper1 sugar1 and more salt if required2 it is then ready for use4 ,this sauce requires to be rather highly seasoned4 ,common vinegar may be used4 #fbg4 ,salmon in marinade4--,have two good slices of salmon cut about four inches and a half in thickness1 in a stewpan have three onions cut in slices1 as also a turnip1 a carrot1 a head of celery cut small1 a good half handful of parsley1 two bay-leaves1 and two ounces of butter2 pass the whole ten minutes over a sharp fire1 then add a pint of vinegar1 a blade of mace1 half a dozen peppercorns1 and one ounce of salt2 let simmer1 then add three pints of water1 put in the salmon1 which simmer gently about half an hour1 and leave in the marinade until cold1 when serve with a little of the marinade strained through a hair sieve in the dish4 ,trout1 mackerel1 herrings1 sprats1 and fillets of sole or brill1 are also very nice cooked in the same manner4 ,a part of the above marinade may be made at any time1 and almost any kind of fish remaining from a previous dinner may be done the same1 and eaten cold4 #fbh4 ,salad of ,game4--,boil eight eggs hard1 shell them1 throw them into cold water1 cut a thin slice off the bottom to facilitate the proper placing of them in the dish1 cut each one into four1 lengthwise1 make a very thin flat border of butter about one inch from the edge of the dish you are going to serve them on2 fix the pieces of egg upright1 close to each other1 the yolk outside1 or alternately the white and yolk2 you lay in the centre a layer of fresh salad that may be in season1 and having previously roasted a young grouse rather underdone1 which you cut into eight or ten pieces1 then prepare sauce as follows3 put a spoonful of eschalots1 finely chopped1 in a basin1 one ditto of pounded sugar1 the yolk of one egg1 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 tarragon1 or chervil1 and a quarter of an ounce of salt1 mix in by degrees with a wooden spoon1 four spoonfuls of oil and two of ,chili vinegar2 when all mixed1 put it on ice1 or in a cold place2 when ready to serve up1 whip a gill of cream rather thick1 which lightly mix with it1 then lay the inferior parts of the grouse on the salad1 sauce over so as to cover each piece1 then lay over the salad and the remainder of the grouse2 sauce over1 and serve4 ,the eggs may be ornamented with a little dot of radishes on the point1 or beet-root4 ,anchovy and gherkin1 cut into small diamonds1 may be placed between1 or cut gherkins in slices1 and lay a border of them round1 or in any way your fancy may dictate4 #fbi4 ,salad of ,fowl4--,proceed as for that of game1 so far as the eggs and the salad are concerned2 then have a chicken1 which has been previously plain roasted1 or in vegetables1 and cut it into ten pieces1 put it into a basin1 season with a teaspoonful of salt1 quarter ditto of pepper1 two tablespoonfuls of oil1 one of vinegar1 one onion sliced1 and a few sprigs of chopped parsley1 mix them well1 and let them remain for a few hours1 if time will permit4 ,take the pieces of chicken1 and place in a dish with salad1 as directed for grouse1 with the sauce1 c41 and serve4 ,nothing is better for ball-suppers than these kinds of dishes2 they may be made of all kinds of solid fish1 and the sauce is excellent2 any kind of cold meat1 dressed round with the sauce1 may be served for supper or luncheon4 ,it may be served with the same sauce or dressing as for ,lobster ,salad 7or ,no4 #fbc71 or make the following one1 which differs a little3--,put into a middle-sized1 round-bottomed basin the yolk of two eggs1 half a spoonful of salt1 quarter of one of pepper1 half a one of sugar1 ditto of fine chopped onions1 ditto of parsley1 or of tarragon1 or of chervil1 stir with the right hand with a wooden spoon1 while you pour some oil out of the bottle by keeping your thumb on its mouth1 so that it runs out very slowly2 when a few spoonfuls are in it1 it will become quite stiff2 pour also by degrees a few spoonfuls of vinegar1 and so on until you have made enough for your salad2 try if the flavor is good and relishing1 as the quality of these two last ingredients varies so much1 that ,i must leave it to your more simple and correct judgment4 ,if you should fail at first1 try again until you succeed1 and ,i am certain you will be delighted with the result2 it ought to be made in a cold place1 particularly in summer4 ,great taste should be observed in the decoration of the border4 ,,shell ,,fish4 ,prawns are best when very red and have no spawn under the tail4 ,the ,escalop is a fish very little used1 but is exceedingly fine2 it is in season at the same time as the oyster4 ,it can be cooked in a variety of ways1 but previous to doing which1 it should be kept some time in salt water1 so that it may free itself from any sand that may be in it2 when opened1 all the beard should be removed1 and only the white1 red1 and black parts used2 it may be cooked and used in every way like oysters1 and is excellent with matelote of any kind of fish4 ,razor ,shell ,fish or ,solen ,fish4--,this is the aulo of the ,romans1 and a beautiful eating fish4 ,it should also be cooked like oysters1 and makes most excellent and strengthening soup4 ,,oysters4--,no oyster should be eaten under four years old2 their age is known by their shell--just the same as the age of a tree is known by its bark1 or a fish by its scale1 and the small oyster has the finest flavor4 #fcj4 ,escaloped ,oysters4--,put two dozen of oysters with their liquor into a stewpan1 place over a fire1 and when a little firm1 drain them upon a sieve1 catching the liquor in another stewpan2 detach the beard from the oysters1 and throw them again into their liquor2 add half a blade of mace1 place again upon the fire1 and1 when boiling1 add a piece of butter the size of a walnut1 with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour2 shake round over the fire until becoming thick1 season with a little cayenne1 and salt if required2 have an escalop shell1 well buttered and bread-crumbed2 place the oysters in1 sprinkle bread-crumbs over1 put it in the oven a quarter of an hour1 pass the salamander over1 and serve4 ,the yolk of eggs may be added1 and less flour4 #fca4 ,stewed ,oysters4--,blanch and beard the oysters as above2 when done1 put them with their liquor in a stewpan1 with four cloves1 a blade of mace1 and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies1 with a little chopped parsley and cayenne2 let simmer a minute1 stir in two pats of butter with which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour1 let simmer a little longer1 lay the oysters in your dish upon a piece of toast1 and sauce over4 #fcb4 ,shrimps4--,of these there are several varieties2 a diversity of opinion exists amongst epicures of this little animal which is the best2 but in my opinion a great deal depends on the manner of boiling1 and their freshness4 ,the following is the plan3 ,i prefer them boiled2 to one gallon of water put two ounces of salt1 one sprig of lemon thyme and one of mint1 and let it boil2 when boiling hard1 put one quart of shrimps into an open wire or wicker basket with a handle1 and place it in the water3 the time they take to boil depends on the size of the fish1 but may be known by their changing color2 be particular not to boil them too much1 or they will be tasteless and indigestible4 #fcc4 ,forcemeat4--,you will find this receipt so useful1 and so often in use in made dishes1 soups1 fish1 entres1 c41 that ,i must beg of you to devote to it your personal attention2 and being rather difficult to execute1 be present when your cook makes it1 that she may follow strictly the receipt1 which ,i flatter myself is rather original4 ,take a pound and a half of lean veal1 and cut it in long thin slices1 scrape with a knife till nothing but the skin remains2 put it in a mortar1 pound it ten minutes1 or until in a pure1 pass it through a wire sieve 7use the remainder in stock71 then take one pound of good fresh beef suet1 which shred and chop very fine1 put it in your mortar and pound it1 then add six ounces of panada 7made as under7 with the suet1 pound them well together1 and add the veal1 season with a teaspoonful of salt1 a quarter one of pepper1 half that of nutmeg1 work all well together1 then add five eggs by degrees1 continually pounding the contents of the mortar2 when well mixed1 take a small piece in a spoon1 and poach it in some boiling water1 and if it is delicate1 firm and a good flavor1 it is ready for use2 if you require some very delicate1 add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce1 or even thick melted butter2 you can vary the flavor by the addition of a spoonful of chopped parsley1 eschalot1 mushroom1 c41 the flesh of rabbit or fowl1 or hare1 pheasant1 grouse1 c41 if plentiful1 may be added1 using the ingredients in proportion4 ,one quarter of this quantity may be made if required4 #fcd4 ,panada for ,forcemeats4--,put two thirds of half a pint of water into a stewpan holding a quart1 with nearly an ounce of butter2 when boiling1 stir in a quarter of a pound of flour2 keep it moving over the fire until it forms a smooth and toughish paste2 take it out of the stewpan1 and when cold use it where directed4 #fce4 ,forcemeats of ,fish4--,these are much in use in ,france and other ,catholic countries1 especially in ,lent1 but they are a very excellent garnish for entres of fish2 they may be made of the flesh of almost all kinds of fish1 more particularly the pike1 salmon1 trout1 sole1 haddock1 and the whiting1 which last is the most delicate4 #fcf4 ,forcemeat of ,whitings4--,take the fillets of three whitings1 take off all the skin1 and pound them well1 then take them from the mortar1 and form them into a ball2 have a piece of panada 7,no4 #fcd7 one third the size of the ball1 put the panada into the mortar1 pound it well1 then add two ounces of fresh butter1 which mix well with the panada1 then add the fish1 season with pepper1 salt1 and a little grated nutmeg2 mix all well together1 then add by degrees three whole eggs and the yolks of two1 try it in a little boiling water as directed for the forcemeat of veal4 ,these are served generally as a meagre dish with a fish sauce1 in ,catholic families1 especially in ,lent time4 #fcg4 ,stuffing for ,veal4--,chop up half a pound of beef suet very fine1 put it in a basin1 with eight ounces of bread-crumbs1 four ounces of chopped parsley1 a tablespoonful of equal quantities of powdered thyme and marjoram1 and a bay-leaf1 the rind of a lemon grated1 and the juice of half one2 season with pepper and salt1 and one quarter of a nutmeg2 mix the whole with three whole eggs2 this will do also to stuff turkey or baked fish1 adding some more chopped parsley4 ,,vegetables4 ,in describing to you the different ways these may be dressed1 ,i beg of you to make a constant use of them at your own table1 as you will find they will be much better than partaking of half-raw greens1 cabbage1 turnip-tops1 spinach1 c41 and are less inviting in flavor1 and1 consequently1 do not get consumed so much as they ought1 which causes more meat to be eaten1 and instead of refreshing the blood1 as all vegetables will do in their season1 only irritate it4 ,do not misunderstand me respecting our ,english way of partaking of plain boiled vegetables2 ,i do not wish you to give them up entirely1 but by adopting both plans1 you will find it a great advantage in our domestic cookery4 ,for my part1 ,i do not object to our plain boiled vegetables1 but merely to the neglectful way they are cooked and served up1 often swimming in water4 ,in ,france1 no family in the middle station of life ever dines without a dish of dressed vegetables1 upon which as much care has been bestowed in cooking as upon the principal dish of the dinner1 and is often eaten alone4 #fch4 ,asparagus4--,i cook it thus3 ,i take a bundle and scrape lightly all the white part1 beginning from the head down1 and throw them when done into cold water1 then tie them up in bundles of twenty-five each1 if an ordinary size1 if very large1 half that number1 keeping the heads together1 and cut off the ends to make them the same length2 have ready a pan containing one gallon of boiling water1 in which has been thrown two ounces of salt1 boil quickly for fifteen minutes1 or till tender2 dish them up with a piece of toast in the middle1 keep the heads in the centre1 and form a pyramid4 ,serve very hot1 with rich melted butter1 or cream sauce4 ,the queen of all vegetables1 to my fancy1 is asparagus4 ,this may almost be said to be a modern vegetable in this country1 and it is one which requires less cooking than perhaps any other1 and is considered exceedingly wholesome4 #fci4 ,young ,green ,peas4--,young ,green ,peas6 ,do not those words sound pleasant to the ear1 dearest8 ,i fancy that by merely raising my eyes from the paper on which ,i am now writing1 ,i shall see all our garden in buds and blossom2 it not only seems to invigorate the sensitive part of one's appetite1 but works upon the mind to that point that you may actually fancy you are breathing in a glowing atmosphere1 and that the pearly dew is gracefully descending in small globules from heaven1 to fix their sparkling eyes on the pinky bloom of myriads of roses4 ,but1 alas6 how soon this charming illusion has disappeared since ,i have left for a moment the sight of my paper to give a peep through the garden window1 where ,i perceive that though to-day is the #agth of ,april1 the serious and uncheerful ,father ,winter has once more monopolized those delightful and variegated nuances of ,nature1 by laying out his universal snowy tablecloth over this for the present ephemeral vision which the inviting words green peas had produced upon my senses2 no doubt the effect of a good fire in my parlor1 where ,i am now sitting1 has had a great influence upon me respecting the summery temperature2 but as a few weeks longer will realize my wishes1 ,i shall here content myself by giving you the receipt how they ought to be cooked when you can get them4 ,when very young1 ,i like them plain boiled1 because their original flavor is so fresh and delicate1 that any addition1 except a little very fresh butter1 would be certain to destroy their aroma2 ,i even object to the introduction of green mint1 though ,i do not want to deprive you of it1 being only a matter of taste4 ,put two quarts of water to boil1 with half an ounce of salt1 and then place in one pint of peas1 boil a full gallop till tender 7about ten minutes71 put in a colander1 drain one minute2 lay them1 raised in the centre1 in a dish1 put in them two pats of very fresh butter1 and serve4 ,when older or larger1 boil a little longer1 add twelve leaves of green mint1 which serve with it4 #fdj4 ,peas1 ,french way4--,they do not look so inviting1 not being so green2 but ,i must say they are excellent as regards flavor4 ,choose them young and fresh2 without both of these qualities1 they would not cook properly4 ,put in a pint of cold water1 mix the peas and butter well with your hand1 add four button onions1 a bouquet of six sprigs of parsley1 one ounce of sugar1 two saltspoonfuls of salt1 one of pepper1 put it over a tolerably good fire1 moving them often2 if getting rather dry1 add a wineglassful of water1 twenty minutes ought to be enough when tender2 add one ounce of butter1 in which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour1 which put in it1 and stir it well2 make a liaison of the yolk of one egg1 a quarter of a gill of cream1 which add and stir1 take out the parsley and onions1 and serve4 ,another way4--,when large1 ,i stew them with two cabbage-lettuces cut in two1 and stew longer1 put in four wineglassfuls of water1 or more if required1 and finish as above4 ,to keep their color1 ,i often proceed thus for entres or second courses3 ,i plain boil as above1 and put them in a stewpan1 with four small onions1 a little mint1 parsley1 butter1 sugar1 and a drop of water1 simmer a few minutes1 add as above the flour1 butter1 and liaison1 and serve2 they are very good this way1 but not so rich in flavor4 ,there are different kinds1 but ,i prefer the ,prussian ,blue above all4 #fda4 ,seakale4--,proceed exactly as for asparagus for boiling1 but previously to boiling cut out the black part of the roots1 and well wash and tie it together1 and serve with the same sauce as asparagus4 ,there is a kind of seakale that is rank and stringy1 and not worth eating2 it may be known1 when raw1 by the outside near the root1 which is very tough and hard4 #fdb4 ,sprue-grass4--,the longer the green part the better the sprue2 take each piece and gently bend it1 and it will break off at that part which you require1 beyond it is too hard1 and cannot be eaten2 when you thus have the pieces1 cut them into lengths of a quarter of an inch1 which well wash2 have one gallon of water1 into which put one ounce of salt1 and boil1 then put in the sprue and boil for ten minutes1 or till tender1 then drain on a sieve1 put them in a stewpan1 with two ounces of fresh butter1 half a teaspoonful of flour1 the same of salt1 two pinches of pepper1 and place on the fire1 stir well together1 and serve hot4 ,the yolk of an egg1 well beaten with two spoonfuls of cream1 may be added to it2 and when serving1 also two spoonfuls of white sauce or melted butter1--but ,i always do it as the first4 #fdc4 ,celery4--,cut about ten heads of large celery from six to seven inches long1 trim the outside and cut the root to a point1 wash it very well between the leaves1 tie three together1 put a gallon of water1 with two ounces of salt1 to boil1 then add the celery1 and boil for fifteen minutes1 then drain it1 put into a stewpan a small slice of bacon1 and lay the celery on it1 put it on the fire for two minutes1 add one onion sliced1 cover with broth until quite tender1 then take it out1 and dish on a piece of toast1 pass the gravy through a sieve into a stewpan1 skim off the fat1 reduce it to a demi-glaze1 add a little sugar and a small pat of butter1 which you have rubbed into some flour1 stir it well1 and sauce over2 it ought to be thick1 and of a nice brown color1 which produce1 if required1 by a little coloring4 ,marrow may be served with it1 by taking two good pieces of marrow1 and boil for a few minutes in a quart of water1 and serve on each side the celery4 ,it can also be cooked plain boiled1 and served with melted butter over1 and also boiled in eight tablespoonfuls of brown sauce1 six of broth1 and half a teaspoonful of sugar1 in which it has boiled ten minutes1 or until tender2 sauce over and serve4 #fdd4 ,salsify4--,i do not know why this vegetable1 which is held in such high estimation on the ,continent1 should be so little esteemed with us2 ,i will here supply their manner of cooking it1 and perhaps you will give it a fair trial4 ,take twelve middling-sized ones1 scrape them well till quite white1 rub each with lemon and put in cold water2 put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of beef or mutton suet1 cut in small dice one onion1 a little thyme1 a bay-leaf1 a tablespoonful of salt1 and four cloves1 put on the fire and stir for five minutes1 add two tablespoonfuls of flour1 and stir well1 then add three pints of water1 when just boiling put in your salsify1 simmer till tender2 they will take nearly one hour2 dish on toast1 sauce over with ,dutch1 matre d'htel1 or onion sauce1 or a very good demi-glaze1 or ,italian sauce4 ,should any remain1 they may be made into fritters thus3 put the sauce1 if any1 in a basin1 add a little salt1 pepper1 two spoonfuls of vinegar1 half a chopped eschalot1 and a spoonful of oil1 place in the salsify1 and let it remain for some hours1 when ready to serve1 make a small quantity of batter1 dip each piece in it1 and fry for five minutes in lard or fat1 dish up with fried parsley over4 #fde4 ,vegetable ,marrow4--,choose eight young small ones1 with smooth skin1 and put them to boil in two quarts of water1 in which you have put one ounce of salt1 the same of butter1 try with a needle if tender1 then dish them tastefully on mashed potatoes in a dish1 put half a pint of melted butter in a pan when near boiling1 add a liaison of a yolk of an egg1 two pats of butter1 a little sugar1 the juice of half a lemon1 sauce over and serve2 if they are rather large1 cut them in two length-wise2 if in smaller pieces1 take all the inside out and boil till tender1 and warm in the above sauce4 ,you can also make a nice demi-glaze1 as ,no4 #acb1 and let them simmer in it for twenty minutes2 do not break them1 as they would then be unsightly2 they can be made into soup like cauliflower 7,no4 #bjg74 #fdf4 ,cauliflower and ,broccoli4--,be very particular in cleaning them1 choose them rather small1 thick and firm1 put them for one hour in salt and water1 then rinse them well in water1 that all the dirt may be removed from the interior2 have a pan of boiling water1 in which you have placed two ounces of salt and one of butter1 drain and use where indicated2 but if for second course1 place them on a dish in the form of a dome1 and cover over with some sauce as for vegetable marrow or plain melted butter1 or ,soubise sauce if preferred plain2 serve it very hot1 having drained it4 #fdg4 ,the same gratin with ,cheese4--,put into a stewpan ten spoonfuls of white sauce1 ,no4 #acj1 with a little chopped onions1 which boil for a few minutes1 add to it a quarter of a pound of grated ,parmesan1 or any mild ,english cheese2 when boiling1 add the yolk of one egg1 and a little cayenne1 mix quick1 lay a little on a dish1 put two or three heads of cauliflower or broccoli on it1 pour the remainder of sauce over1 and a little bread-crumbs and grated cheese2 put in oven half an hour1 give it a nice yellow color1 and serve2 if no white sauce1 use melted butter1 but do not boil it so long1 or it will eat rather greasy4 #fdh4 ,jerusalem ,artichokes4--,one of the best and most useful vegetables ever introduced to table1 and anything but appreciated as it deserves to be4 ,to prove to you that ,i am a great admirer of it1 you will find it very often mentioned in my receipts4 ,in using them for a second course1 ,i choose about twelve of the same size1 peel them and shape them like a pear1 but flat at the bottom1 wash them well1 boil gently in three pints of water1 one ounce of salt1 one of butter1 and a few sliced onions2 when tender1 ,i make a border of mashed potatoes on a dish1 fix them on it point upwards1 sauce over with either cream sauce 7,no4 #bhj71 white sauce 7,no4 #acj71 melted butter 7,no4 #bfd71 matre d'htel1 and place a fine ,brussels sprout between each1 which contrast is exceedingly inviting1 simple1 and pretty4 #fdi4 ,cucumbers are most delicious stuffed and stewed1 but very difficult to dress1 and consequently chiefly used for entres1 in which series they will be found4 ,they may1 however1 be treated like vegetable marrow4 #fej4 ,artichokes4--,pull the tail off four or six small artichokes1 trim the bottom slightly with a knife1 cut the point of every leaf1 wash well in plain water1 put them on in plenty of water1 with a little salt1 to boil1 let them thus remain about half an hour1 or until the leaves are easy to be removed1 take them out and lay on a sieve to drain1 and serve on a napkin1 with melted butter separate4 #fea4 ,beet-root4--,this is a very good dish1 and1 as ,i believe it has never been noticed in cookery1 ,i must lay claim to its parentage2 ,i have given the receipt to some friends1 who highly approve of it4 ,take two nice young boiled beet-roots1 which will take about from two to three hours to simmer in plenty of boiling water1 peel when cold1 cut in slanting direction1 so as to make oval pieces1 peel and cut in small dice two middling-sized onions1 put in a pan1 with two ounces of butter1 fry white1 stirring continually with a spoon2 add a spoonful of flour1 and enough milk to make a nice thickish sauce1 add to it three saltspoonfuls of salt1 four of sugar1 one of pepper1 a spoonful of good vinegar1 and boil a few minutes2 put in the slices to simmer for about twenty minutes1 have ready some mashed potatoes1 with which make a neat border in your dish one inch high1 then put the beet-root and sauce1 highly season in the centre1 and serve4 #feb4 ,french ,beans4--,these are also a great favorite with many4 ,to dress it1 head and tail them1 drawing off the back string1 cut in long diamonds1 boil till tender in water in which salt has been placed1 a quarter of a pound to a gallon1 try them after a quarter of an hour's boiling1 drain them1 lay them on a dish one inch thick1 sprinkle with a little salt1 pepper1 and two pats of butter1 then put in the remainder1 proceed the same at top2 serve very quickly1 to prevent the butter oiling4 #fec4 ,the same1 la ,matre d',htel4--,when boiled as above1 put in a stewpan1 with a quarter of a pound of matre d'htel butter1 when melted serve4 ,they may be also served with white sauce thus3 put in a stewpan eight spoonfuls of melted butter1 season well1 simmer gently1 add the yolk of an egg1 two ounces of butter1 juice of half a lemon1 and serve4 #fed4 ,kidney ,beans4--,head and tail them1 string and slit them down the middle1 place them for half an hour in salt and water in which you have thrown a little culinary alkali1 boil until tender1 and serve with melted butter1 or la matre d'htel4 #fee4 ,broad or ,windsor ,beans4--,boil in salt and water3 when done1 serve with parsley and butter1 or with a piece of bacon4 #fef4 ,brussels ,sprouts4--,trim1 wash1 and boil about forty small ,brussels sprouts2 when tender1 drain1 dish1 and sprinkle a little salt1 pepper1 and two ounces of butter over1 and serve4 ,serve also in sauce1 or with matre d'htel1 like ,french beans4 ,these are also very good for soups1 sauces1 or garnish4 #feg4 ,spinach4--,this vegetable is very light and very good for invalids4 ,it must be washed in several waters1 after having been well picked2 then put a quarter of a sieve of spinach to a gallon of water and three ounces of salt1 boil for ten minutes till tender1 drain on sieve1 press a little with your hands to extract part of the water1 chop it up fine1 put in a stewpan1 with a quarter of a pound of butter1 a teaspoonful of salt1 half ditto of pepper1 put on a fire with a drop of warm broth for a few minutes1 and serve4 #feh4 ,spinach with ,gravy4--,proceed as before1 but add a tablespoonful of flour and half a pint of strong gravy in it1 as ,no4 #agg2 serve with sippets of bread round4 #fei4 ,spinach with ,cream4--,proceed as before1 but putting half a pint of milk or cream instead of gravy1 and the addition of a tablespoonful of sugar1 cut three slices of bread1 lay on dish1 sift sugar over1 put in oven1 salamander over1 cut in various shapes1 and serve under or over the spinach4 #ffj4 ,young ,haricot ,beans4--,take a pint1 boil in two quarts of water1 with a small piece of butter1 and half an ounce of salt2 when done1 which will take only a few minutes1 dish and serve2 put butter over1 sprinkle a little salt1 and when on the dish1 a gill of matre d'htel sauce or fennel sauce may be served over the larger one1 or it is very delicious plain boiled1 and with a piece of ham or bacon4 #ffa4 ,white ,haricot ,beans4--,nothing so cheap or so solid a food as haricot beans2 get a pint of fine white beans1 called the dwarf--,i buy them for fourpence a quart4 ,i put them into half a gallon of cold soft water1 with one ounce of butter2 they take about three hours to cook1 and should simmer very slowly1 drain them and put into a stewpan with a little salt1 pepper1 chopped parsley1 two ounces of butter1 and the juice of a lemon1 place on the fire for a few minutes1 stir well1 and serve4 ,the water in which it is boiled will not make a bad soup by frying four onions in butter in a stewpan1 adding a little flour1 then the water poured over1 and a slice of toasted bread1 cut in pieces1 and served in a tureen4 ,should the water in boiling reduce too fast1 add a little more4 ,they may be dressed for second course1 la ,bretonne1 as for leg4 ,the longer sort requires to be soaked a few hours before boiling4 #ffb4 ,mushrooms4--,these are good every way when fresh2 for a dish take about fifty button1 cut the roots off1 wash and rub the skin off with a cloth1 cut them in slices the size of a shilling1 tail and all1 put them in a stewpan1 with two ounces of butter1 a small teaspoonful of salt1 two pinches of pepper1 and the juice of half a lemon1 put them on the fire1 simmer till tender1 and dish them up on a nice crisp toast2 should you require any sauce1 add1 when nearly done1 half a spoonful of flour1 a gill of broth1 milk1 or cream1 or even water1 stew a few minutes longer1 pour over toast and serve4 ,if very large1 they should have been carefully picked1 for if the dirt should have got into the under part it is difficult to remove it2 cut off the end of the tail and peel the top1 put them on a gridiron1 season moderately with salt and pepper1 turn them1 and when done serve them on a very hot dish1 and put on each a piece of butter the size of a nut1 and a squeeze of a lemon1 put in a hot oven for a minute1 or before the fire1 and serve2 a little ,harvey's or ,soyer's sauce is an improvement4 ,they may also be put in an oven1 by laying them in a saut-pan or tin dish1 put a little butter and season over each1 and a drop of ,harvey's sauce1 and let them remain twenty minutes1 and serve with gravy over4 #ffc4 ,lentils4--,put into a stewpan one quart1 add two quarts of cold water1 one ounce of butter1 a little salt1 one onion sliced1 a bouquet of parsley1 set on the fire1 simmer till tender1 which may be in two hours2 when done1 drain in a sieve1 and save the liquor1 which can be made into a soup like the haricots 7see receipt ,no4 #ffa72 put the lentils in a stewpan1 with two ounces of butter1 a little salt1 sugar1 pepper1 and a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots1 set it on the fire1 put in butter and flour1 mix well1 boil ten minutes gently1 and dish in a border of potatoes or in a deep dish4 ,it may also be done thus3 by frying till brown one onion1 sliced in a stewpan1 put in the boiled lentils1 with two ounces of butter1 a little flour1 a gill of gravy1 and season as above1 stir well1 boil1 and serve hot4 ,gabanza or ,egyptian bean may be cooked in the same way4 #ffd4 ,english ,truffles4--,put twelve of them to soak for four hours in lukewarm water2 then with a hard hair-brush remove all the earth from them2 then wash again1 put them into a stewpan1 with a few slices of bacon1 two onions1 half a head of celery1 half a carrot1 a clove of garlic1 two bay-leaves1 a sprig of thyme1 four of parsley1 a teaspoonful of salt1 one of sugar1 a half of pepper1 two glasses of sherry1 and a pint of broth2 let them simmer for half an hour or more1 but till tender2 place them in the oven for twenty minutes longer1 remove the truffles and place them on a dish2 have a little mashed potatoes1 and make a border1 and place the truffles on in pyramid to prevent them moving1 strain the gravy they were in1 skim off the fat1 reduce it to about a gill1 put in a teaspoonful of arrow-root in a cup1 with a spoonful of water1 mix it1 and put to the gravy1 boil a few minutes1 pour over1 and serve4 ,i peeled some of them1 cooked the same way1 they eat better2 but they did not look so well4 #ffe4 ,saut of the same4--,after having washed them1 ,i peel them and cut into thin slices1 and put about one pound of them into a stewpan2 ,i then add a quarter of a pound of butter1 a teaspoonful of salt1 half one of sugar1 a quarter ditto of nutmeg1 warm over the fire1 add a gill of broth1 a little flour1 mixed with a little butter1 stir in1 boil1 and serve on toast2--or proceed as above1 adding a gill of demi-glaze4 ,they can be served with any entres when properly done1 and in all cases can be used instead of mushrooms4 #fff4 ,to cook ,sourcrout4--,put a quart of sourcrout1 with a fat piece of bacon or pork1 into an earthen pan1 with sufficient water to cover it1 stew for four or five hours1 and serve with pork or fried sausages2 it is better the second day4 ,it may be procured in any good oil-shop in the winter4 #ffg4 ,sourcrout1 ,bavarian way4--,well wash one quart of sourcrout1 and put it into an earthen pan with a quarter of a bottle of ,rhenish wine or any other light wine1 and stew it for three hours2 then add some veal gravy1 well seasoned1 and stew for three hours longer1 and serve with sausages1 or when you add the veal stock1 put in a duck or a goose1 and serve with it4 #ffh4 ,laver is a marine plant 7the ,ulvoe ,lactuca71 which is obtained1 in ,london1 from the ,west of ,england2 in ,dublin1 from ,malahide2 ,edinburgh1 from ,aberdeen4 ,it is merely washed1 boiled1 pulped1 and potted by the fishermen's wives4 ,it is considered wholesome1 but ,i see nothing particular in it that can make it so unless it is the small quantity of iodine that it contains4 ,it should be dressed like spinach 7,no4 #feh71 and sent up very hot in a dish over a spirit-lamp1 and is generally served with mutton4 ,the following is a new plan ,i have introduced for cooking it1 which has been liked by those persons who formerly disliked it4 ,have some mashed potatoes as ,no4 #fgb1 roll it out the thickness of a quarter of an inch1 cover it with some cold stewed laver nicely seasoned1 put another layer of mashed potatoes over1 and allow it to get quite cold1 when cut it in square pieces1 egg1 bread-crumb1 and proceed as for ramifolles4 ,,potatoes4--,this root still bears its original ,american name1 signifying earth-apple1 and is divided into many species4 ,amongst those most common in use are the regent1 ash-leaf1 kidney2 but1 in the sister kingdom1 ,ireland1 many other varieties are in use2 as the lumper1 reds1 and blacks4 ,there are as many different ways of cooking them as there are different species1 which ,i will now describe4 #ffi4 ,plain ,boiled or ,steamed ,potatoes4--,well wash the potatoes and peel them1 and throw them into cold water 7that depends upon the kind1 if new or young1 or a kidney1 they should be cooked immediately after they are peeled1 whilst others require to remain a long time in soak72 have ready a steamer with boiling water in it1 put the potatoes on the top1 and steam for twenty to thirty minutes1 and serve4 ,should you not have a steamer1 and are obliged to boil them1 do so by putting them into plenty of boiling water1 and boil till tender or breaking1 then pour them out into a colander1 put a cloth over them1 and put them in the screen1 or before the fire1 until you are ready to serve them2 they ought always to be sent to table very hot4 #fgj4 ,baked ,potatoes4--,this is a very favorite dish with many persons2 they ought to be of a large size1 called ,regents1 and when cooked very floury4 ,mr4 ,b4 tells me he sometimes lunches at a house in the city where the proprietor grows that sort in particular for the use of his customers1 and he finds them better if he leaves them in the ground where they grow until wanted1 and he has about three days' consumption taken up at a time4 ,they are merely well washed1 and put into a slow oven for about thirty minutes1 or longer if large1 and served with a pat of butter in a plate4 #fga4 ,fried ,potatoes4--,the long kidney potato is the best for this purpose2 they should be washed and peeled1 and cut into very thin slices1 and thrown into boiling fat until a nice light brown color2 dish up very hot1 throwing a little salt over4 ,the remains of cold ones may be cut into slices and fried in the same way1 or they may be dipped into batter1 and fried like fritters4 #fgb4 ,mashed ,potatoes4--,steam about ten fine potatoes for about thirty-five minutes1 put them into a stewpan or bowl1 with two ounces of butter1 one teaspoonful of salt1 a smaller spoonful of pepper1 and half a pint of milk1 and beat them very well up with a large fork1 then add by degrees a gill of milk1 and continue beating1 and dish them lightly on a dish4 ,should you require to keep them warm1 do so in a stewpan4 ,i do not approve of putting them into moulds and then in the oven1 as it makes them heavy4 #fgc4 ,potatoes la ,matre d',htel4--,with young potatoes they are excellent4 ,boil ten middle-sized ones cut in slices of a quarter of an inch thick1 put in the stewpan half a pint of milk or the same of broth1 a little salt1 pepper1 grated nutmeg1 and a tablespoonful of fresh chopped parsley1 then simmer on fire2 when boiling1 add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter1 the juice of a lemon1 stir well for a few minutes2 when each piece is well covered with the sauce1 dish up1 and high in the centre1 as they must appear light4 #fgd4 ,lyonnaise4--,the remains of cold potatoes may be used thus3--,put three ounces of butter in an omelette pan1 in which you fry rather white three sliced onions2 put on the potatoes1 cut in thin slices about the size of half a crown1 and saut them now and then until they have a nice yellow color2 add a spoonful of chopped parsley1 salt1 pepper1 and the juice of a lemon1 saut well that it should mix well together1 dish and serve very hot2 they are excellent to serve with chop1 steak1 or any joint4 #fge4 ,irish way of boiling4--,in ,ireland1 where this root has been for so long a period the chief nourishment of the people1 and where it takes the place of bread and other more substantial food1 it is cooked so that it may have1 as they call it1 a bone in it2 that is1 that the middle of it should not be quite cooked4 ,they are done thus3--,put a gallon of water with two ounces of salt1 in a large iron pot1 boil for about ten minutes1 or until the skin is loose1 pour the water out of the pot1 put a dry cloth on the top of the potatoes1 and place it on the side of the fire without water for about twenty minutes1 and serve4 ,in ,ireland turf is the principal article of fuel1 which is burnt on the flat hearth2 a little of it is generally scraped up round the pot so as to keep a gradual heat1 by this plan the potato is both boiled and baked4 ,even in those families where such a common art of civilized life as cooking ought to have made some progress1 the only improvement they have upon this plan is1 that they leave the potatoes in the dry pot longer1 by which they lose the bone4 ,they are always served up with the skins on1 and a small plate is placed by the side of each guest4 #fgf4 ,to blanch ,macaroni4--,have half a gallon of water in a stewpan1 in which put two ounces of butter and an ounce of salt2 when boiling1 throw in a pound of macaroni1 which boil until tender1 being careful that it is not too much done2 the time of boiling depends principally upon the quality1 the ,genoa macaroni taking the longest time1 and the ,neapolitan the shortest1 which last1 if too much done1 will fall in pure4 #fgg4 ,macaroni l',italienne4--,boil half a pound of macaroni as above2 when done1 lay it on a sieve to dry for one minute1 put it in a pan1 with four spoonfuls of white sauce1 add half a teaspoonful of salt1 a quarter ditto of pepper1 a little cayenne1 toss the macaroni over the fire2 when boiling1 add two ounces each of grated ,parmesan and ,gruyre cheese1 toss round and round until well mixed1 then serve with a gill of very strong gravy around it4 #fgh4 ,macaroni au ,gratin4--,proceed the same as above2 but after you have put the macaroni on the dish1 omit the gravy1 and cover it slightly with bread-crumbs1 and about the same quantity of ,parmesan cheese grated1 a little butter1 and then put in a hot oven for a quarter of an hour2 if not hot enough1 pass the salamander over it1 and serve very hot4 #fgi4 ,macaroni la ,napolitaine4--,boil half a pound of the best quality of macaroni for half an hour1 as at ,no4 #gcf2 when tender1 lay one quarter of it on the dish you intend to serve2 have ready two ounces of grated ,parmesan cheese1 which you divide into four parts to lay over each layer of macaroni1 then put over it two tablespoonfuls of strong gravy1 made of half glaze and consomm1 put the dish in the oven for ten minutes1 and serve very hot4 #fhj4 ,the real ,italian method 7called l',estoufade74--,boil and proceed as before1 but make the gravy as follows1 and use it instead of the preceding4 ,take two pounds of rump of beef larded through1 put in a small stewpan1 with one quarter of a pound of butter1 fry gently for one hour1 turning almost continually2 when forming a glaze add half a pint of broth1 let simmer another hour1 take the fat off1 and use that gravy instead of that above described2 a little tomato may be introduced if handy1 serve the beef at the same time in a separate dish4 #fha4 ,fried ,mashed ,potatoes in various shapes4--,roast twelve fine potatoes2 when done1 take out the interior1 which form into a ball2 when cold1 put them into a mortar1 with a piece of butter half the size of the ball2 pound them well together1 season with a little salt1 pepper1 chopped eschalots1 chopped parsley1 and grated nutmeg1 mix them with the yolks of six1 and two whole eggs2 then form them into croquettes about the size and shape of a small egg1 and bread-crumb them twice over1 and fry them to a light brown color in a stewpan of hot lard1 and serve as garniture where required4 #fhb4 ,to boil ,rice4--,wash well in two separate waters a pound of the best ,carolina rice1 then have two quarts of water boiling in a stewpan1 into which throw your rice1 boil it until three parts done1 then drain it on a sieve2 butter the interior of a stewpan1 in which put your rice1 place the lid on tight1 and put it in a warm oven upon a trivet until the rice is perfectly tender1 or by the side of the fire2 serve it separate with curry1 or any other dish where required4 ,prepared thus1 every grain will be separate and quite white4 #fhc4 ,chopping of ,herbs1 c4--,this may appear a very simple thing to do well1 yet it is often done badly1 by which the flavor is lost4 ,they should be well washed and dried1 and then take the leaves in the left hand1 pressing upon the leaves with your fingers1 and chop as fine as possible1 not by placing the point of the knife on the board and raising it and letting it fall1 but with a good sharp cut1 so that they are cut1 not pressed4 ,onions should be peeled1 and cut in halves lengthwise1 and then with a thin knife cut each half in slices1 leaving them joined at the root2 again cut into slices contrarywise1 and then from top to bottom2 thus having cut into very small squares1 chop it with both hands with the knife4 ,you may also wash them2 when half-chopped press them in a cloth1 and chop them still finer4 ,,of ,,different ,,sorts ,,of ,,pastry4 ,the variety of pastes is to the pastry what first stocks are to soups and sauces1 and must be very properly first described1 particularly as it is here ,i must refer my readers for paste even used for the hors-d'oeuvre and entres2 to succeed you must be particular in your proportions1 and very careful in the mixing2 for1 although there is nothing more simple if pains be taken1 so will the least neglect produce a failure1 nor is it only with the making of the paste that pains must be taken1 but likewise with the baking1 for as paste badly made would not improve in baking1 neither will paste1 however well made1 be good if badly baked2 should the oven be too hot the paste will become set and burn before it is done2 and1 again1 if too cold it would give the paste a dull heavy appearance1 but an oven properly heated 7which can be readily known by a little attention on the part of those in the habit of using it7 will give it a clear brilliant appearance4 ,for every description of pastry made from puff paste1 try if the oven is hot by placing your hand about half-way in1 and hold it there about a quarter of a minute1 if you can hold it there that time without inconvenience it would not be hot enough2 but if you cannot judge of the heat1 the safest method would be1 try a piece of the paste previous to baking the whole2 ,i apply these few observations to all my friends1 but particularly to the uninstructed1 as a person of continual practice cannot fail to be aware of the truth of them4 #fhd4 ,puff ,paste4--,put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab1 make a hole in the centre1 in which put the yolk of one egg and the juice of a lemon1 with a pinch of salt1 mix it with cold water 7iced in summer1 if convenient7 into a softish flexible paste1 with the right hand dry it off a little with flour until you have well cleared the paste from the slab1 but do not work it more than you can possibly help1 let remain two minutes upon the slab2 then have a pound of fresh butter from which you have squeezed all the buttermilk in a cloth1 bringing it to the same consistency as the paste1 upon which place it2 press it out with the hand1 then fold over the edges of the paste so as to hide the butter1 and roll it with the rolling-pin to the thickness of a quarter of an inch1 thus making it about two feet in length1 fold over one third1 over which again pass the rolling-pin2 then fold over the other third1 thus forming a square1 place it with the ends top and bottom before you1 shaking a little flour both under and over1 and repeat the rolls and turns twice again as before2 flour a baking-sheet1 upon which lay it1 upon ice or in some cool place 7but in summer it would be almost impossible to make this paste well without ice7 for half an hour2 then roll twice more1 turning it as before1 place again upon the ice a quarter of an hour1 give it two more rolls1 making seven in all1 and it is ready for use when required1 rolling it whatever thickness 7according to what you intend making7 directed in the following receipts4 ,when ,i state that upwards of a hundred different kinds of cakes may be made from this paste1 ,i am sure it will be quite sufficient to urge upon every cook the necessity of paying every attention to its fabrication1 as it will repay for the study and trouble4 #fhe4 ,puff ,paste1 with ,beef ,suet4--,where you cannot obtain good butter for making paste1 the following is an excellent substitute2 skin and chop one pound of kidney beef suet very fine1 put it into a mortar and pound it well1 moistening with a little oil1 until becoming as it were one piece1 and about the consistency of butter1 proceed exactly as in the last1 using it instead of butter4 #fhf4 ,half ,puff ,paste4--,put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab1 with two ounces of butter1 rub well together with the hands1 make a hole in the centre1 in which put a pinch of salt and the yolk of an egg with the juice of a lemon2 mix with water as before1 then roll it out thin and lay half a pound of butter 7prepared as for puff paste7 rolled into thin sheets over1 fold it in three1 roll and fold again twice over1 lay it in a cold place a quarter of an hour1 give another roll1 and it is ready for use where required2 this paste is mostly used for fruit tarts1 for which it is well adapted4 #fhg4 ,short ,paste1 or ,pte foncer4--,put a pound of best flour upon your pastry slab1 make a hole in the centre1 in which put an ounce of salt1 half a pound of fresh butter1 and sufficient water to form a stiff paste1 mix well together1 and it is ready for use where directed4 #fhh4 ,short ,paste for ,fruit ,tarts4--,put a pound of flour upon your pastry slab with six ounces of butter1 and rub them well together2 then make a hole in the centre1 in which put two ounces of powdered sugar1 two whole eggs1 and a large wineglassful of water1 mix the eggs1 sugar1 and water well1 then drown in the flour and mix together1 and work it lightly4 #fhi4 ,pte d',office1 or ,confectioner's ,paste4--,weigh half a pound of flour1 which put upon your slab1 make a hole in the centre1 in which put six ounces of sifted sugar1 mix it well with four eggs into a stiffish paste1 having first well dissolved the sugar with the eggs1 work it well1 it is then ready for use4 ,this paste was very much used when pices monts were so much in vogue1 but in the several receipts in which it is referred to1 it is used upon quite a new principle1 and very much simplified2 this paste1 with the above proportions1 ought to be very stiff1 but still pliable enough to be worked without breaking2 should it be too stiff add more eggs1 or too soft more flour2 the half or quarter of the above quantity may of course be made4 #fij4 ,vols-au-,vent of all things in pastry require the most care and precision2 they that can make a good vol-au-vent may be stamped as good pastrycooks1 although many variations in working puff paste1 all others are of secondary importance4 ,make a pound of puff paste1 giving it seven rolls and a half1 leave it an inch in thickness1 make a mark upon the top either round or oval1 and according to the size of your dish2 then1 with a sharp-pointed knife1 cut it out from the paste1 holding the knife with the point slanting outwards2 turn it over1 mark the edges with the back of your knife1 and place it upon a baking-sheet1 which you have sprinkled with water2 egg over the top1 then dip the point of the knife into hot water1 and cut a ring upon the top a quarter of an inch deep1 and half an inch from the edge of the vol-au-vent1 set in a rather hot oven1 if getting too much color1 cover over with a sheet of paper1 do not take it out before done1 or it would fall1 but when quite set1 cut off the lid1 and empty it with a knife2 be careful to make no hole in the side or bottom2 if for first course it is ready1 but if for second sift sugar all over1 which glaze with the salamander4 ,regulate the thickness of the paste from which you cut the vol-au-vent1 according to the size you require it1 the smaller ones of course requiring thinner paste4 ,a vol-au-vent for entres will take about half an hour to bake1 and as the common iron ovens often throw out more heat upon one side than the other1 it will require turning two or three times to cause it to rise equal2 it ought to be when baked of a light gold color4 #fia4 ,vol-au-,vent of ,peaches4--,put half a pound of sugar in a sugar-pan1 with the juice of a lemon and about half a pint of water1 place it upon the fire and boil till becoming a thickish syrup2 then have eight peaches not quite ripe1 which cut in halves1 break their stones and blanch the kernels1 throw six halves with the kernels into the syrup1 boil three minutes1 take them out with a skimmer1 lay them upon a dish and take off their skins1 stew the rest in syrup in like manner1 four at a time2 when all done pour what liquor runs from them again into the syrup1 which reduce to a good thickness1 pass it through a tammy into a basin1 when cold pour a little over the peaches and leave until ready to serve2 dress the peaches in your vol-au-vent with the syrup over4 ,this is a receipt ,i learnt in ,france1 where ,i got peaches for a sou each4 #fib4 ,vol-au-,vent with ,fruit4--,these are generally used for the second course1 and do not require to be so high as the other1 especially as the fruit ought to be dressed in the form of a pyramid1 if they are cut about three quarters of an inch in thickness it will be enough2 when nearly done1 sift some powdered sugar over them1 and put it back in the oven to glaze well1 if not hot enough use the salamander2 remove the interior1 taking care not to make a hole in the bottom or sides1 and fill with any kind of fruit you like1 but never mix two kinds together1 except currant and raspberry4 #fic4 ,sweet ,vol-au-,vent with ,rhubarb4--,in the spring of the year1 this makes a very inviting and wholesome dish1 and its qualities purify the blood1 which the winter's food has rendered gross2 cut about twelve sticks of rhubarb into lengths of one inch1 put it in a stewpan holding about two quarts1 put over it a quarter of a pound of sugar1 and a tablespoonful of water1 set it on a sharp fire1 stirring it1 do not let it get brown1 or it would spoil and lose its flavor2 it will take but a few minutes to do2 when tender1 put it in a basin to cool2 a few minutes before serving1 fill the vol-au-vent with it1 and serve cold4 #fid4 ,ditto1 with green ,gooseberries4--,a quart of green gooseberries1 a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar1 the juice of half a lemon1 and a tablespoonful of water1 put on the fire and move it about for ten minutes1 or till tender1 and forming a thick green marmalade1 put it in a basin till cold1 serve in pyramid in the vol-au-vent2 a little thick syrup1 if handy1 poured over1 improves the appearance4 #fie4 ,ditto1 with ,orange4--,well peel six oranges1 removing all the pith1 divide each into six or eight pieces1 put them in a pan1 with a quarter of a pound of sugar1 and the juice of one orange1 set it on a slow fire1 with the cover on1 stir it now and then2 ten minutes will be sufficient time for it1 take out the pieces one after the other1 lay them in a basin1 reduce your syrup to a proper thickness1 when ready to serve1 dish your pieces of orange in it1 and pour over the syrup4 #fif4 ,another method4--,make a thick syrup with half a pound of sugar1 put in your pieces by a dozen at a time1 just give them a boiling1 remove them on a sieve1 then add the other pieces1 when all done1 add the juice1 which pass through a sieve1 and back again to the pan1 boil till a proper thickness1 dish up and serve the syrup over4 #fig4 ,ditto1 a still plainer method4--,have the pieces of orange ready1 and put in a stewpan a quarter of a pound of sugar1 a wineglass of brandy or rum1 stir it well a few minutes1 and serve with the liquor poured over4 #fih4 ,ditto1 with ,cherries4--,stone one pound of cherries1 and put in a pan1 with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar1 stew for five minutes1 take them down1 drain1 then reduce the syrup till thick1 and pour over at the moment of serving4 #fii4 ,ditto1 with ,strawberries4--,pick two pottles of very fresh strawberries1 not too ripe1 put them in with two ounces of powdered sugar1 a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon1 toss them gently in a basin1 and serve immediately in your vol-au-vent4 #gjj4 ,ditto1 with ,apples4--,this fruit being procurable all the year renders it one of very great convenience2 ,ripstone pippins are the best3 cut in four1 peel them1 put a pint of syrup1 when boiling1 put in your apples1 with the peel of half a lemon1 and the juice of a whole one1 let simmer till tender1 put it in a basin1 boil the syrup to a white jelly1 let it stand till cold1 put the apple in the vol-au-vent1 and pour the syrup 7cold7 or jelly over2 serve a few ornaments made with very green angelica4 #gja4 ,another method4--,cut any kind of apple1 rather thin1 put over a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar1 the rind of a lemon chopped1 the juice of the same1 one ounce of butter1 and a glass of sherry1 put on the fire1 toss till tender1 but keep it very white1 put it in a basin1 when cold dish in your vol-au-vent2 whip a gill of good cream1 add ten drops of orange-flower water in it1 cover over carefully and serve4 ,apple saut with butter1 in this way may be served hot in the vol-au-vent4 ,any kind of plums or apricots1 when plentiful1 may be done the same as cherries1 and served the same way4 #gjb4 ,little ,fruit ,rissolettes4--,i also make with the trimmings of puff paste the following little cakes3 if you have about a quarter of a pound of puff paste left1 roll it out very thin1 about the thickness of half a crown1 put half a spoonful of any marmalade on it1 about one inch distance from each other1 wet lightly round them with a paste-brush1 and place a piece of paste over all1 take a cutter of the size of a crown piece1 and press round the part where the marmalade or jam is1 with the thick part of the cutter1 to make the paste stick1 then cut them out with one a size larger1 lay them on a baking-tin1 egg over1 then cut a little ring in paste1 the size of a shilling1 put it on them1 egg over again1 place in a nice hot oven for twenty minutes1 then sugar over with finely sifted sugar1 so as to make it quite white all over1 then put back into the oven to glaze3 should the oven not be sufficiently hot1 take a salamander1 or1 for the want of one1 a red-hot shovel1 full of live coals1 may be used2 serve in the form of a pyramid4 ,a little currant jelly in the ring looks well4 #gjc4 ,flanc of ,fruit4--,this requires a mould the same as ,no4 #fjb2 it must be well wiped with a cloth1 butter it1 then take the remains of puff paste1 and roll it well so as to deaden it1 then roll it out a size larger than your mould1 and about a quarter of an inch thick1 place your mould on a baking-tin1 put the paste carefully in the mould and shape it well1 to obtain all the form of the mould1 without making a hole in it2 put a piece of paper at the bottom1 fill with flour to the top1 and bake a nice color2 it will take about half an hour1 then take out the flour and paper1 open the mould1 and fill it4 #gjd4 ,flancs1 with any kind of fruit1 like a vol-au-vent1 are more easily made1 and are equally as good a side dish4 ,this may be made of half-puff or short paste1 and fill with raw cherries and some pounded sugar over3 bake together4 ,greengages1 apricots1 or any kind of plums1 will require a hotter oven than for flour only in it1 the fruit giving moisture to the paste2 if baked in a slow oven will be heavy1 and consequently indigestible4 #gje4 ,another4--,if you have no mould1 make a quarter of a pound of paste 7,no4 #fhh71 roll it round or oval to your fancy1 a quarter of an inch thick1 wet the edge all round about half an inch1 raise that part and pinch it round with your thumbs and fingers1 making a border all round1 put on a baking-sheet1 fill with fruit one row1 if large two2 remove the stones1 and sift sugar over according to the acidity of the fruit2 it will take less time1 too1 than if in a mould3 you see what variation can be made with very little trouble or expense4 #gjf4 ,flanc of ,apples4--,i just perceive that ,i had forgot to give you a few receipts in this way of cake1 which ,i make very pretty when we have a party4 ,take eight ,ripstone pippins1 cut in four1 peel a nice shape1 rub with lemon1 put half a pound of sugar in a pan1 cover with cold water1 juice of a lemon2 boil till rather thick1 then add half the apples1 simmer till tender1 put them on a plate1 do the remainder the same way1 reduce the syrup a little1 put the apples in a basin1 pour syrup over3 when cold1 dish in pyramid in the crust1 which you have prepared as ,no4 #gjc1 pour over the syrup1 which should be a jelly4 ,i often cut in fine strips the rind of a lemon or orange1 boil with the apples1 and ornament also with pieces of young angelica preserved1 cut in diamond1 placing a piece between each apple4 ,flancs of pears may be made precisely the same way1 but with good ripe eating pears cut in two lengthwise1 leaving the stalk cut in half4 #gjg4 ,a plainer way4--,peel and cut eight apples in thin slices in a pan1 with two ounces of pounded sugar1 the rind and juice of a lemon1 the rind well chopped1 put on fire1 stir till forming a thick marmalade1 and tender1 melt a little currant jelly1 pour over and serve4 #gjh4 ,small ,fruit ,tarts4--,the next in order to sweet vol-au-vents1 and which are easier to make1 are tartlets1 their appearance being inviting1 and their expense limited1 and very easy to serve4 ,they may be made from the trimmings of any puff paste which remains1 should be enveloped in paper1 and kept in a cold place1 or in the flour tub4 ,make them as follows3--,have ready twelve or more small tartlet pans1 which butter1 line each with a bit of puff paste cut with a cutter the size of a crown piece1 force up the edges with your thumb and finger1 put a small ball 7made of flour and water7 in each1 bake them nicely in a very hot oven2 when done take out the ball 7which may be kept for other occasions71 the tartlets1 and shake powdered sugar over the bottom of each1 and glaze with a salamander1 turn them over1 and shake sugar in the interior1 which also salamander2 fill with any kind of preserve1 marmalade1 or fruit1 for sweet vol-au-vents4 ,they may be made with cream as follows3--,make your tartlets as before1 placing cream instead of the ball of flour1 made thus3 put half a pint of milk in a stewpan1 when boiling1 add half a stick of vanilla1 reduce the milk to half in another stewpan1 have the yolks of two eggs and a quarter of an ounce of powdered sugar1 and one ounce of sifted flour1 with a grain of salt1 pour in the milk1 taking out the vanilla1 place over a slow fire1 keep stirring till it thickens2 when cold1 fill the tartlets1 and bake nicely in a moderate oven2 when cold1 add a little jam1 have ready a meringue of four eggs 7see ,no4 #gaa71 lay a teaspoonful of each upon them1 spreading it quite flat with a knife1 ornament the top with some of the mixture1 put into a paper cornet1 sift sugar over1 place in a slow oven till a light brown color1 and the meringue quite crisp2 if the oven is too hot1 cover with a sheet of paper1 dress1 and serve in pyramid upon your dish4 ,they ought to be of a light color4 #gji4 ,rissole ,fourre4--,this is made as the rissole for entres2 it is a very simple receipt1 and ,i vary it continually without the slightest difficulty2 instead of making it with orange ,i substitute apricot marmalade1 apple1 raspberry1 strawberry1 or greengage jam2 but no jelly1 as currant or apple1 as it would run through the paste and look bad4 ,to vary the appearance at table1 instead of egging1 dust them lightly over with some coarse powdered sifted sugar1 then bake them white instead of brown2 if the oven is too hot cover with a sheet of paper1 put a little marmalade or jam in a ring which you have selected1 and serve4 ,by blanching and chopping a few pistachios1 and mixing with the sugar1 makes them look very inviting1 or even chopped sweet almonds changes the flavor2 they may also be filled with any preparation of cream1 rice1 or vermicelli1 prepared as for croquets4 ,i also change them by sauting1 as they are much quicker done1 and make a very nice dish4 ,to remove the roast of the second course1 ,i put six at a time in the saut-pan 7see page #fb71 which must be hot1 and saut a few minutes until a nice pale yellow color1 serve with sifted sugar over1 or egg and bread-crumb2 serve very hot2 if any left cold1 warm in the oven4 #gaj4 ,flanc ,meringue of ,apple4--,sometimes ,i make a meringue of three eggs1 as ,no4 #gaa2 when it is hard ,i cover the apples with it half an inch thick1 keeping the pyramid2 then ,i put the remainder in a paper cornet2 cut the point so that by pressing it the mixture may go out by degrees1 with which ,i make various designs1 according to fancy1 sugar over1 and put for half an hour to bake in a very slow oven2 the color ought to be pale yellow2 they are equally good hot or cold4 ,if you would keep it quite white1 bake it in a still slower oven1 and give it a quarter of an hour longer4 ,when ,i do it so1 ,i merely make dots all over1 about a quarter of an inch distant from each other1 of the size of small nuts1 sugar over1 and put a ,corinth raisin in each knob1 which gives it a good appearance1 and bake as directed2 when the eggs are just set1 you may cover it with a sheet of paper1 to prevent it taking too much color4 #gaa4 ,meringues la ,cuillere4--,pound and sift one pound of lump sugar1 whisk the whites of twelve eggs very stiff1 throw the sugar lightly over1 and with a wooden spoon stir gently1 perfectly mixing the sugar1 then with a table or dessert-spoon lay them out upon white paper in the shape of eggs1 sift powdered sugar thickly over1 let them remain ten minutes1 then shake off the superfluous sugar1 place upon boards which you have wetted1 and put them in a slow oven1 just hot enough to cause them to be light and slightly tinged2 when the outside becomes quite crisp1 take off the papers1 by turning them topsy-turvy and lifting the papers from them1 dip your spoon into hot water1 and with it clear out the best part of the interior1 dust them with powdered sugar1 lay them upon a baking-sheet1 and put into the screen to dry2 they may be made a day or two before they are required1 if put away in a dry place2 to serve1 fill them with whipped cream flavored either with vanilla or orange-flower 7but do not make it too sweet71 stick two together1 dress in pyramid upon a napkin1 and serve4 ,should they happen to stick to the papers1 moisten the papers with a paste-brush and water underneath4 #gab4 ,gteau ,fourr4--,this style of cake is exceedingly simple1 and admits of great variation4 ,you must make a half pound of puff paste 7,no4 #fhd71 take one third of it and roll it out several times so as to deaden it1 then mould it round with your hands to the shape of a ball1 then roll it out flat to the thickness of half a crown1 lay it on a baking-sheet1 put on it marmalade a quarter of an inch thick1 reserving about one inch all round of paste to fix the cover on1 then roll out the remainder of the paste to the same shape1 it will of course be thicker1 wet the edges of the bottom and lay the cover on it1 press it so that it sticks1 cut neatly round the edges1 and make a mark with the back of a knife about a quarter of an inch deep and half an inch apart all round1 egg over1 and lightly mark any fanciful design with the point of a knife on the cover1 bake in a very hot oven for twenty minutes2 when nearly done sprinkle some sugar over and salamander1 and serve cold4 ,it may be made with frangipane and cream and apple marmalade1 and then can be served hot4 #gac4 ,dartoise ,fourre4--,the former one must be made in proportion to the dish you intend to serve on1 but the following is simple1 and looks as well3 prepare the paste as before1 but roll the bottom piece square1 put it on a baking-sheet1 cover with jam1 marmalade or frangipane1 leaving one inch at the edge1 roll the cover the same size1 wet the edges1 place it over1 trim the edges1 mark it down every three inches1 and then crosswise every inch2 bake in hot oven1 sugar over1 and salamander4 ,when nearly cold1 cut it where you have marked it2 thus1 a piece twelve inches square will give you forty-eight pieces2 dish as a crown or pyramid1 twelve pieces make a nice dish for a party4 ,they may be made of any puff paste which is left1 but will not be so light as if made on purpose2 can be cut to any fanciful shape you please4 #gad4 ,nougat of ,apricot4--,proceed as above1 but lay apricot marmalade all over a quarter of an inch thick1 blanched almonds1 cut into fillets1 mixed with two ounces of sugar1 and the white of an egg added to it1 bake in a moderate oven1 and cut in true lozenge shapes 7,i do not mean those things called lozenges1 but a diamond shape71 dish up on a napkin in crown or pyramid2 they ought to be of a nice transparent color4 ,orange1 apple1 or quince marmalade may be used instead of apricot4 ,red fruit preserve does not cook well4 #gae4 ,crusts of ,fruit4--,put a quarter of a pound of butter in a saut- or frying-pan1 sprinkle a little sugar over1 cut four or five slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick1 three inches long1 and one and a half wide1 lay in your pan2 take one dozen of greengages1 open them in two1 they must not be too ripe1 lay the skin part on your bread1 put a pinch of sugar in each1 put it in a hot oven for twenty minutes2 have ready a salamander or a hot shovel1 and hold it over it for a few minutes1 dish and serve hot or cold2 the oven ought to be hot enough to give a nice yellow color to the bottom1 which will eat crisp4 #gaf4 ,crusts with ,madeira4--,cut a ,french penny roll lengthwise in four or five slices1 put the yolks of two eggs1 with four spoonfuls of milk1 mix it in a plate1 dip quickly each piece in it1 and saut in a quarter of a pound of butter which you have previously melted in a pan1 leave them on the fire until they have obtained a nice gold color on both sides1 put a spoonful of apricot marmalade in a stewpan1 with two glasses of ,madeira1 and place on the fire2 when on the point of boiling1 pour over the bread1 which you have previously put in a plate1 and serve very hot4 ,any preserve may be used1 also any white wine2 and should you have no ,french rolls1 any fancy roll will do1 or stale brioche 7,no4 #aa7 is excellent for them4 #gag4 ,cheesecakes4--,under this head1 in ,english ,cookery ,books1 are a variety of ,receipts1 but in fact1 there is only one2 the others may all be denominated tartlets of one kind or the other1 and require but little skill on the part of the cook to vary in an innumerable number of ways4 ,the following is the plan in use in the farm-houses in the midland counties2 some which ,i have received from ,stilton1 and also from ,tuxford1 in ,nottinghamshire1 are excellent4 ,take four quarts of milk and turn it with some fresh rennet2 when dry1 crumble it and sift it through a coarse sieve into a bowl1 beat it well up with a quarter of a pound of butter until it is quite smooth 7it may require a little more butter1 depending on the quality of the milk72 mix in another bowl the yolks of four eggs and a quarter of a pound of very fine sifted biscuit powder1 the rind of four lemons1 the juice of two1 a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar 7some add a little grated nutmeg or cinnamon71 beat these all well up together until forming a stiff cream1 then put it by degrees into the bowl with curd1 and mix them well together2 line some tartlet-pans1 previously buttered1 with some paste 7,no4 #fhf71 and place some of the above mixture in1 and bake quick4 ,in some places milk is used instead of eggs4 ,should you not have rennet1 procure some good milk1 and turn it with the juice of a lemon or a teaspoonful of soda or culinary alkali to a quart of milk3 drain the curd1 and proceed as before4 #gah4 ,richmond ,maids of ,honor4--,these delicious little cakes1 which every inhabitant of ,london who pays a visit to the most picturesque part of its environs knows so well1 derive their name from a period when cookery was not thought to be a degrading occupation for those honored with that title4 ,it is stated that they originated with the maids of honor of ,queen ,elizabeth1 who had a palace at ,richmond4 ,i have a little work now before me1 called ',the ,queen's ,delight1' in which are several receipts invented by the wives of the first nobles of the land1 which ,i think is an excellent example for those housewives who honor this book by their perusal1 to imitate4 ,they are made as follows3 ,sift half a pound of dry curd1 mix it well with six ounces of good butter1 break the yolks of four eggs into another basin1 and a glass of brandy2 add to it six ounces of powdered lump sugar1 and beat well together one very flowery baked potato1 cold1 one ounce of sweet almonds1 one ounce of bitter ditto pounded1 the grated rind of three lemons1 the juice of one1 and half a nutmeg grated1 mix these well together and add to the curds and butter2 stir well up1 and proceed as before1 filling the tartlet pans4 #gai4 ,lemon ,cheesecakes4--,take two large lemons1 and rub the rind with one pound of loaf sugar1 so that all the yellow part is removed2 place the sugar in a basin1 squeeze the juice of the lemons over1 then add the yolks of six eggs1 and beat it all well up1 and put it by in a jar for use4 ,it will keep for years4 ,any flavor1 such as vanilla or cinnamon1 may be added1 if liked1 when required for use4 ,having made the paste and lined the tins1 mix one tablespoonful of the mixture with a teacupful of good milk1 and place a little in each tartlet4 #gbj4 ,sweet ,omelettes4--,break six eggs in a basin1 into which put a teaspoonful of sugar1 three of cream1 or a few small pieces of butter2 put two ounces of butter in an omelette pan2 when quite hot1 pour in the eggs and proceed as for ,omelettes of ,herbs1 turn over on your dish1 sift some powdered sugar over1 salamander1 and serve4 #gba4 ,omelettes of ,preserved ,fruits1 viz4 ,currant ,jelly1 ,raspberry and ,strawberry ,jam1 ,apricots1 ,peaches1 ,cherries1 c41 are made the same as the last1 but1 just before turning on your dish1 put two spoonfuls of preserves in the centre1 sugar over1 salamander1 and serve4 #gbb4 ,macedoine of ,omelettes4--,instead of making one with eight eggs1 make four1 with two eggs each1 of different kinds of preserves2 serve on the same dish1 sugar over1 c41 as before4 #gbc4 ,omelette with ,rum4--,the same as sweet omelette1 but1 the moment of going to table1 pour two glasses of rum round1 and set it on the fire4 #gbd4 ,beignet ,souffl4--,put in a stewpan a pint of milk or water1 a teaspoonful of sugar1 two ounces of butter1 a few drops of essence of vanilla1 or any flavor you please2 give it a boil1 throw in some flour1 keep stirring all the time until it becomes quite thick and no longer tastes of the flour and detaches itself from the pan4 ,it will take about half an hour1 as the better it is done the lighter it is2 withdraw it from the fire1 stir in six eggs1 one at a time1 sift about two ounces of sugar1 until the paste is of the stiffness of puff paste2 have ready a pan of hot fat1 into which you drop by a spoon small pieces of paste1 it will increase their size2 and when a nice color1 take them out1 drain1 and dish on a napkin1 with sifted sugar over4 #gbe4 ,apple ,fritters4--,mix one pound of flour with half a pint of milk or water1 then half a pound of butter melted in a stewpan1 mix well together with a wooden spoon very smooth1 thin it a little with table-beer or water1 whisk the whites of three eggs very stiff1 stir in gently2 have six apples1 peeled1 cut in slices about a quarter of an inch thick1 the cores taken out with a cutter1 dip each piece in the batter1 and fry in hot lard about six minutes2 to fry well1 the fat should not be too hot at first1 but get hotter as it proceeds2 they should be crisp1 and of a nice golden color2 serve on a napkin1 and sift sugar over4 #gbf4 ,ditto1 ,peaches4--,skim and cut in halves six ripe but fine peaches1 take out the stones1 have a batter prepared as the last1 dip them in1 fry1 and serve the same4 #gbg4 ,ditto1 ,apricots4--,cut in halves1 and proceed as above1 and sugar over until quite brown4 #gbh4 ,ditto1 ,oranges4--,peel four oranges1 divide them in quarters by the thin skin1 without cutting the flesh1 and proceed as before4 ,any other fruit may be done in the same way1 and can1 if required1 be soaked in wine or brandy previously1 but they do not fry so well4 #gbi4 ,pancake with ,marmalade4--,put a quarter of a pound of sifted flour into a basin1 with four eggs1 mix them together very smoothly1 then add half a pint of milk or cream1 and a little grated nutmeg1 put a piece of butter in your pan 7it requires but a very little71 and when quite hot put in two tablespoonfuls of the mixture1 let spread all over the pan1 place it upon the fire1 and when colored upon one side turn it over1 then turn it upon your cloth2 proceed thus till they are all done1 then spread apricot or other marmalade all over1 and roll them up neatly1 lay them upon a baking-sheet1 sift sugar over1 glaze nicely with the salamander1 and serve upon a napkin2 the above may be served without the marmalade1 being then the common pancake4 #gcj4 ,apple ,charlotte with ,butter4--,for the few following receipts1 the russet apple is the one ,i should recommend1 it being the most suitable1 not being so watery1 or falling in pure1 but in case they cannot be obtained1 other sorts may be used1 which will require to be more reduced in stewing4 ,well butter the interior of a plain round mould1 then cut twelve pieces of bread the size and thickness of a shilling1 dip them in clarified butter1 and lay them in a circle round the bottom of your mould2 cut also eight small pieces in the shape of diamonds1 dip them in butter1 and with them form a star in the centre of the circle1 cover the whole with a round piece of bread the size of the bottom of the mould1 and the thickness of a penny-piece1 cut about thirty other pieces an inch wide and four inches in length1 dip one after the other in clarified butter1 which stand upright1 one half-way over the other1 all round the interior of the mould2 then have ready prepared two dozen or more russet apples1 which peel and cut in slices1 put them into a round stew or preserving-pan1 with three ounces of butter and half a pound of broken lump sugar1 with a little lemon-peel cut in strips1 and a glass of sherry1 place them over a sharp fire1 tossing over occasionally1 but keeping them together in a cake2 when quite tender fill your mould 7having previously well egged and bread-crumbed the interior71 place another round piece of bread 7also egged and bread-crumbed7 over the apples1 and stand the mould in a hot oven until the bread becomes well browned1 take out and turn it over upon your dish1 have a few spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan1 with a glass of sherry1 melt it over the fire1 and when quite hot pour round the charlotte2 sugar and salamander the top if not quite crisp1 and serve4 ,you may also1 for a change1 introduce a little sweetmeat of any kind in the middle of your charlotte1 and use plain pieces of bread a quarter of an inch thick1 instead of so many pieces for the sides4 #gca4 ,apples with ,rice4--,peel and quarter twelve good-sized apples1 put them into a preserving-pan1 with three quarters of a pound of sugar1 the thin rind of a lemon in strips1 the juice of another1 and a wineglassful of water1 pass them over a sharp fire1 and when tender lay them upon the back of a hair sieve to drain1 then put six ounces of rice into a stewpan1 with a quart of milk1 place it upon the fire1 stir until boiling1 then place it upon a very slow fire to simmer very gently until quite tender1 placing a little fire upon the lid1 if it becomes dry before it is tender add a little more milk2 then add a quarter of a pound of sugar1 a quarter of a pound of butter1 and four eggs1 stir them well in1 stir over the fire until becoming again thick2 when put it upon a dish to get cold1 then form a stand with it upon your dish eight inches in diameter and three in height1 but hollow in the centre1 where dress some of the apples1 more rice over1 then more apples1 forming a pyramid2 you have previously reduced the syrup drained from the apples1 which pour over the whole1 and garnish with some very green angelica1 forming any design your fancy may dictate4 ,apples with rice may be served hot as well as cold4 #gcb4 ,pears with ,rice4--,peel and cut in halves eighteen small ripe pears1 which put in a small preserving-pan1 with three quarters of a pound of sugar1 a little water1 and the juice of two lemons1 stew them till tender1 then lay them upon a dish to cool1 and mix three tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with the syrup1 have some rice prepared as in the last1 with which make a stand1 but not quite so high1 dress the pears in a border in the interior1 and again in the centre dress the remainder of the rice in pyramid2 when ready to serve pour the syrup over1 and garnish tastefully with angelica round4 #gcc4 ,apples with ,butter4--,peel eighteen russet apples1 which cut in quarters1 and trim of a nice shape1 put them into a small preserving-pan1 with two ounces of butter and three quarters of a pound of sugar1 having previously rubbed the rind of an orange upon it and pounded it1 pass them over a sharp fire1 moving occasionally until quite tender1 have ready buttered a plain dome mould1 put the apples into it1 pressing them down a little close2 when half cold turn it out of the mould upon a dish1 and cover all over with apricot marmalade2 when cold it is ready to serve4 #gcd4 ,apple ,bread1 ,russian fashion4--,put one pound and a half of lump sugar and a pint and a half of water into a round-bottomed copper preserving-pan1 place it over a sharp fire and reduce it to a crack1 have ready twenty-four good brown pippin apples peeled and cut into slices1 which put into the sugar1 keeping stirred until it becomes quite a thick marmalade1 take off the fire and put it into a cylinder mould1 previously slightly oiled1 shake it well down1 and let it remain until quite cold2 then turn it out of the mould upon your dish2 have a few spoonfuls of currant jelly in a stewpan1 which melt over the fire1 add two glasses of good old rum1 and when partly cold1 pour over and serve with whipped cream in the centre1 in which you have introduced a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers2 if any remain1 it will be excellent to make croquettes4 #gce4 ,apples saut in ,butter4--,procure a dozen russet apples1 which cut into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness1 peel and take out the cores with a round cutter1 then put two ounces of butter in a saut-pan1 spread it over the bottom and lay in your apples1 with half a pound of powdered sugar and the juice of two lemons1 stew gently over a moderate fire2 when done1 dress them rather high in crown upon your dish1 melt three spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan1 with which mix a glass of ,madeira wine1 which pour over when ready to serve4 #gcf4 ,croquettes of ,rice4--,well wash half a pound of the best ,carolina rice1 which put into a stewpan1 with a pint and a half of milk1 and a quarter of a pound of butter1 place it upon the fire1 stir until boiling1 then place it upon a slow fire1 cover the stewpan1 and let simmer very slowly until quite tender2 rub the rind of a lemon upon a lump of sugar1 weighing a quarter of a pound1 pound it in a mortar quite fine1 add it to the rice1 with the yolks of five eggs 7mix well71 stir them a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs thicken1 but do not let it boil1 lay out upon a dish1 when cold form it into a number of small balls1 or pears1 or into long square pieces1 according to fancy2 have three or four eggs in a basin well whisked1 dip each piece in singly1 and then into a dish of bread-crumbs1 smooth them gently with a knife1 dip them again into the eggs and bread-crumbs1 put them into a wire basket1 which put in a stewpan of very hot lard1 fry a nice light yellow color1 drain on a cloth1 dress them pyramidically upon a napkin1 and serve with powdered sugar sifted over them4 #gcg4 ,croquettes of ,macaroni4--,blanch six ounces of macaroni in two quarts of water until tender1 then strain and put it in a basin of cold water2 when cold cut it into pieces half an inch in length1 and put it into a stewpan containing a pint and a half of boiling milk1 in which you have infused a stick of vanilla1 boil until it becomes thickish1 add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar1 two ounces of butter1 and the yolks of eight eggs1 stir them well in over the fire until the eggs thicken1 then pour out upon a dish1 and proceed precisely as for the croquettes of rice4 #gch4 ,pastry ,cream sautd4--,put the yolks of six eggs in a stewpan1 with two good tablespoonfuls of sifted flour1 mix quite smooth with a wooden spoon2 then add a pint of boiling milk or cream1 stir in by degrees1 and place it over the fire1 keeping stirred until it thickens1 add an ounce of butter1 six ounces of sugar1 two ounces of crushed ratafias1 a little orange-flower water1 and three whole eggs1 mix the whole well together1 and stir it a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs set2 then pour it out upon a saut-pan1 previously oiled1 and when quite cold cut it into pieces one inch wide and two and a half long1 dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over1 the same as for croquettes1 saut them in the same manner1 dress upon a napkin as high as you can1 with sifted sugar over1 they may be flavored also with vanilla or lemon4 ,they may be varied in shape according to fancy4 ,,jellies4 ,nothing1 ,i am confident1 will give you more pleasure than trying the receipts which ,i am now about giving you2 they are for jellies1 that is1 those made from gelatinous substances of animal production4 ,they are the most wholesome productions of cookery1 and are slightly nourishing and fortifying without being exciting4 ,you will find the receipts as simple as possible2 and you will perceive that1 when you have made the foundation stock to perfection1 they may be varied in twenty or more different ways1 by changing the flavor1 fruits1 or colors4 #gci4 ,jelly ,stock1 made from calf's feet1 requires to be made the day previous to being used4 ,take two calf's feet1 cut them up1 and boil in three quarts of water2 as soon as it boils remove it to the corner of the fire1 and simmer for five hours1 keeping it skimmed1 pass through a hair sieve into a basin1 and let it remain until quite hard1 then remove the oil and fat1 and wipe the top dry4 ,place in a stewpan one gill of water1 one of sherry1 half a pound of lump sugar1 the juice of four lemons1 the rinds of two1 and the whites and shells of five eggs1 whisk until the sugar is melted1 then add the jelly1 place it on the fire1 and whisk until boiling1 pass it through a jelly-bag1 pouring that back again which comes through first until quite clear2 it is then ready for use1 by putting it in moulds or glasses4 #gdj4 ,gelatine and ,isinglass ,jelly is made as above1 using one ounce and a half of either1 and boil in one quart of water1 reduce to half2 if not required very clear1 as for lemon jelly1 it need not be run through a bag1 but merely through a fine sieve4 #gda4 ,hartshorn ,jelly4--,use half a pound of hartshorn shavings1 boil in three quarts of water1 and reduce to one2 proceed as before4 ,also ,arney's jelly powder can be used instead of any of the above1 by dissolving in boiling water4 #gdb4 ,gold or ,silver ,jelly1 or both mixed1 is made with eau de vie de ,dantzic1 mixing the gold or silver leaves with a little jelly1 ornamenting the bottom of the mould with it1 which place in ice till set1 fill with very clear calf's foot jelly4 ,it can also be made by cutting up a quarter of a sheet of gold leaf in a glass of pale brandy1 and use as the former4 #gdc4 ,maresquino ,jelly is made by mixing six liqueur-glasses of maresquino with a quart of clarified calf's foot jelly2 peaches or other fruits cut in quarters may be added4 #gdd4 ,rum-,punch1 ,curaoa1 ,noyeau1 are made with the same quantity1 and as the former4 #gde4 ,french ,jellies may be made with all kinds of fresh fruits1 filling the mould by degrees1 the jelly first1 let it set1 then the fruit1 and so on till full1 the mould being buried in ice2 when ready to serve dip in hot water1 mix it well1 and turn out carefully on your dish4 ,in the winter1 preserved fruits in syrup may be used1 decorating the mould with them1 pouring in a little jelly at a time until it is cold1 and fill up by degrees2 proceed as above4 #gdf4 ,orange ,jelly4--,procure five oranges and one lemon1 take the rind off two of the oranges1 and half of the lemon1 and remove the pith1 put them into a basin1 and squeeze the juice of the fruit into it2 then put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a stewpan1 with half a pint of water1 and set it to boil until it becomes a thick syrup1 when take it off1 and add the juice and rind of the fruits1 cover the stewpan1 and place it again on the fire2 as soon as boiling commences skim well1 and add one glass of water by degrees1 which will assist its clarification1 let it boil another minute1 when add half an ounce of good isinglass1 dissolved as directed 7,no4 #gdj71 pass it through a jelly-bag1 add a few drops of prepared cochineal to give an orange tint1 and then fill a mould and place it on ice2 turn out as before4 #gdg4 ,lemon ,jelly is made the same way1 only using six lemons and the rind of one2 serve quite white1 and add a gill of ,bucellas1 or any very pale wine4 ,calf's foot stock1 reduced and clarified1 may be used instead of the isinglass4 #gdh4 ,whipped ,jellies are made from any of the above by placing some warm jelly in a large bowl or basin on ice1 and when nearly cold whisking it2 pour quickly in a mould set on ice and salt1 where let remain till ready for serving2 dip it in lukewarm water1 strike gently1 taking it in the right hand1 place the left on it1 turn it over1 if it shakes in the mould1 let it gradually slip off your hand on the dish1 and remove the mould4 ,all jellies are removed the same way4 #gdi4 ,bohemian ,jelly ,creams may be made of any flavor as jellies1 and either ripe fruit or with marmalade or jam1 to which add the juice of two lemons1 a pint of water1 in which one ounce and a half of isinglass has been dissolved1 or a pint of reduced clarified calf's foot jelly1 stir together in a bowl placed on ice2 when nearly cold1 stir quickly in three parts of a pint of whipped cream1 fill the mould1 which should be kept on ice1 and turn out as before4 ,a small bottle of ,crosse and ,blackwell's jelly may be used instead of the isinglass or jelly1 by uncorking and placing the bottle in a stewpan of hot water till dissolved1 or pour it in a clean stewpan1 and reduce it one third4 ,cherries1 raspberries1 strawberries1 currants1 and gooseberries must be passed through a sieve2 but apricots1 peaches1 apples1 pears1 quinces1 pineapples1 and marmalade may be used as they are4 ,creams may be made of any flavor1 and of either ripe fruits1 jams1 or marmalade2 they are made plain1 thus3 put the yolks of five eggs in a stewpan1 with six ounces of sugar1 beat it up with a spoon until white2 in another stewpan have a pint of milk and one ounce of isinglass1 boil ten minutes1 stir continually to prevent burning1 flavor with vanilla or anything to your taste1 pour the milk on the eggs and sugar1 put on the fire1 stir well together1 do not let it boil1 pass through a tammy into a round bowl2 when cold1 set on ice1 add two or three glasses of liqueur1 keep stirring its contents1 and when setting1 add three parts of a pint of cream well whipped1 mix well together1 and pour into your mould in the ice1 and keep there till required2 turn out as before4 #gej4 ,charlotte ,russe4--,line the inside of a plain round mould with ,savoy biscuits1 cutting and placing them at the bottom to form a rosette1 standing them upright and close together1 fill with any of the above creams1 omitting the fruits1 place the mould in ice1 let it remain till ready to serve1 turn over on a dish1 and remove the mould4 #gea4 ,strawberry ,charlotte4--,line a plain round mould with ripe strawberries by burying the mould in ice to the rim1 and dipping the strawberries in calf's foot jelly1 first covering the bottom with them cut in halves1 the cut side downwards1 afterwards building them up the sides1 the jelly 7which must be cold1 but not set7 causing them to adhere2 when finished1 fill it with the cream as directed for the charlotte russe1 and when ready to serve dip the mould in warm water1 and turn it out upon your dish4 ,the cream must be very nearly set when you pour it in1 or it would run between the strawberries and produce a bad effect4 #geb4 ,chartreuse ,cake of variegated ,fruits4--,line a charlotte mould very tastefully with various kinds of fruits 7such as stoned cherries1 strawberries1 pieces of peaches1 apricots1 c47 by dipping them into jelly1 forming some design at the bottom of the mould1 and building them in reverse rows up the sides1 having the mould previously placed in ice1 when well set1 terminate as in the last4 #gec4 ,blancmange4--,to one quart of milk add one ounce of isinglass1 a quarter of a pound of sugar1 a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon1 a little grated nutmeg1 half of the peel of a lemon1 and a bay-leaf1 simmer over a slow fire1 stirring till the isinglass is dissolved1 pass it through a napkin into a basin1 and pour into a mould4 ,this can be made any color or flavor that will not curdle the milk2 the milk of bitter almonds may be added to flavor it4 #ged4 ,another4--,put into a bowl about a pint of clear calf's-foot jelly warm1 break six eggs1 beat the yolks and pour them gradually into the jelly1 beating all the time2 put on the fire and whisk till nearly boiling1 set it on ice or in cold water1 keep stirring till nearly cold1 and fill your mould4 ,you may add whatever flavor you like4 #gee4 ,trifles should be made early in the day on which they are wanted2 take a stale ,savoy cake1 cut it in slices of one inch thick1 and lay it on the bottom of the dish2 lay on that a thin layer of any kind of marmalade1 jam1 or jelly1 have some macaroons and ratafia cakes and lay on1 and cover the whole with some sponge cakes4 ,for a dish nine inches in diameter1 mix two glasses of sherry1 one of brandy1 half a one of rum1 and the same of noyeau1 and pour over1 and let it remain until it is well soaked1 then pour over about one inch thick of rich custard2 put a pint of cream into a bowl1 with some sifted sugar1 a squeeze of a lemon1 and about a tablespoonful of the wine1 c41 you have put on the cake1 whisk it well up4 ,i use a trifle-blower1 which saves some trouble2 ,i also use it for all whipped cream2 and as the froth rises remove it with a spoon on to a clean sieve1 where let it drain1 then place it on the custard until it is high and handsome4 ,i have occasionally1 when being in a hurry1 and having no cream by me1 proceeded as above1 and made the whip with the whites of eggs1 and some very white peach or egg-plum marmalade together1 until it makes firm froth or whip1 which put on the custard2 this may also be colored a nice pink4 ,trifles are generally considered unwholesome2 ,i think it is because they are often made too long before they are wanted1 and no spirit is used in the cake1 the consequence is1 the cream turns sour4 ,the remains of this make an excellent pudding4 ,,puddings ,,in ,,moulds4 ,we have already1 in the ,comforts for ,invalids1 given several of the most simple receipts4 ,i prefer using1 in these kinds of puddings1 as the principal ingredient1 stale ,savoy cake1 or sponge cakes1 or ladies' fingers1 and1 if ,i cannot get them1 crumbs of stale bread2 they may be made in a hundred different ways1 according to the fancy and taste of the cook2 the mould should be buttered and papered2 they may be either baked or steamed4 ,there is hardly any of our sex1 from childhood to old age1 but loves this truly ,english mixture1 which appears upon our tables in a hundred different shapes1 but always under the same name2 and ,i should not fancy my labors complete if ,i did not produce a new one of my own invention2 ,i therefore beg you to accept of the dedication1 as ,i intend to call it-- #gef4 ,pudding la ,eloise4--,it is made as follows3 take half a pound of bread-crumbs1 which put in a basin1 with two ounces of sago1 six ounces of chopped suet1 six eggs1 five ounces of moist sugar1 and a tablespoonful of either orange1 lemon1 or apricot marmalade2 mix all well together1 and ornament the bottom of the mould with green angelica in syrup1 and ,smyrna raisins1 and fill up with the mixture4 ,place the mould in a stewpan containing water to half the height of the mould1 and boil gently for two hours2 remove it from the mould1 and serve with a sauce made of a tablespoonful of either of the marmalades1 or of currant or apple jelly and two glasses of sherry poured over4 ,this1 ,i assure you1 received great praise from the little party of juveniles that ,i had the other day4 #geg4 ,pudding la ,reine4--,butter and paper the mould1 fill up with cake or bread-crumbs1 when full pour some custard in until it will hold no more2 this may be flavored with any white liquor or essence you please1 for instance1 citron 7then it is called ,pudding la ,reine au ,citron71 or orange2 use peel thinly sliced1 and so on for any flavor you may give it4 #geh4 ,mince-meat ,pudding4--,butter and paper the mould1 then put a layer of cake and a layer of mince-meat alternately1 till full1 then add the custard4 #gei4 ,demi-,plum ,pudding4--,prepare the mould1 then add a layer of plum pudding1 broken in pieces1 that has been left from the previous day1 alternately1 till full1 fill up with custard1 and steam or bake for three minutes4 ,the remains of any kind of pudding may be used thus4 #gfj4 ,trifle ,pudding4--,prepare the mould1 and fill with the same ingredients as directed for trifle1 taking care that the wine1 c41 is well soaked in before adding the custard4 ,steam or bake thirty minutes4 ,the sides and tops of these puddings may be ornamented with cut angelica1 hops1 or candied orange or lemon-peel1 in any fanciful design you please1 and they may be served with any kind of wine sauce4 #gfa4 ,carrot ,pudding4--,mix in a bowl half a pound of flour1 half a pound of chopped suet1 three quarters of a pound of grated carrot1 a quarter of a pound of raisins stoned1 a quarter of a pound of currants1 and a quarter of a pound of sugar1 brown or sifted white2 place these in a mould or dish1 beat up two whole eggs1 the yolks of four in a gill of milk1 grate a little nutmeg in it1 and add it to the former2 bake or steam forty-five minutes4 ,,puddings ,,boiled ,,in ,,cloths4 ,the principal one1 and the most celebrated1 is the plum pudding4 #gfb4 ,plum ,pudding4--,pick and stone one pound of the best ,malaga raisins1 which put in a basin1 with one pound of currants 7well washed1 dried1 and picked71 a pound and a half of good beef suet 7chopped1 but not too fine71 three quarters of a pound of white or brown sugar1 two ounces of candied lemon-and orange-peel1 two ounces of candied citron1 six ounces of flour1 and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs1 with a little grated nutmeg2 mix the whole well together1 with eight whole eggs and a little milk2 have ready a plain or ornamented pudding-mould1 well butter the interior1 pour the above mixture into it1 cover a sheet of paper over1 tie the mould in a cloth1 put the pudding into a large stewpan containing boiling water1 and let boil quite fast for four hours and a half 7or it may be boiled by merely tying it in a pudding-cloth previously well floured1 forming the shape by laying the cloth in a round-bottomed basin and pouring the mixture in1 it will make no difference in the time required for boiling72 when done1 take out of the cloth1 turn from the mould upon your dish1 sprinkle a little powdered sugar over1 and serve with the following sauce in a boat3 ,put the yolks of three eggs in a stewpan1 with a spoonful of powdered sugar1 and a gill of milk2 mix well together1 add a little lemon-peel1 and stir over the fire until becoming thickish 7but do not let it boil71 when add two glasses of brandy1 and serve separate4 ,the above sauce may be served1 poured over the pudding1 if approved of4 ,an excellent improvement to a plum pudding is to use half a pound of beef marrow cut into small dice1 omitting the same quantity of suet4 #gfc4 ,rowley ,powley4--,roll out about two pounds of paste 7,no4 #fhe71 cover it with any jam or marmalade you like1 roll it over and tie it loose in a cloth1 well tying each end2 boil one hour and serve1 or cut it in slices and serve with sauce over4 #gfd4 ,plum ,bolster1 or ,spotted ,dick4--,roll out two pounds of paste 7,no4 #fhe71 having some ,smyrna raisins well washed1 and place them on it here and there1 roll over1 tie in a cloth1 and boil one hour1 and serve with butter and brown sugar4 #gfe4 ,plain ,bolster4--,roll as above1 sift some white or brown sugar over it1 the addition of a little powdered cinnamon to the sugar is an improvement1 roll over and proceed as before4 #gff4 ,apple ,dumplings4--,peel and cut out the core with a cutter1 cover it with paste 7,no4 #fhe71 tie in a cloth1 and boil according to size2 these are all the better for being boiled and kept in the cloth1 hung up for four or six weeks1 and re-warmed4 ,they may likewise be baked4 ,these kind of boiled puddings1 containing a large quantity of paste1 should be made with flour1 in which is mixed one saltspoonful of culinary alkali powder to four pounds of flour1 which will cause them to be much lighter4 ,,plain ,,baked ,,puddings ,,in ,,dishes4 #gfg4 ,marrow ,pudding may be made in various ways2 it is best with half a pound of ladies' finger cakes1 and a quarter of a pound of beef marrow1 chopped fine1 a quarter of a pound of currants well cleaned1 half an ounce of candied lemon-peel1 a little nutmeg1 a tablespoonful of powdered sugar1 a saltspoonful of salt1 and half a wineglassful of wine or brandy3 put these on a dish1 and fill up with custard1 having previously put a border of paste on the rim2 about half an hour will do it4 #gfh4 ,custard ,pudding4--,make a border of paste on the dish1 and fill up with custard1 grate a little nutmeg on the top4 ,any kind of fruit puddings with custard may be made in the same way1 by placing them in the custard1 and sift some finely powdered sugar over1 before going to the baker's4 #gfi4 ,fruit ,puddings are best made in a basin1 the basin to be buttered and lined with the paste1 and then filled with the fruit1 which cover with the paste1 the paste should be rolled round to the thickness of half an inch1 and when the fruit is in1 drawn to the centre and squeezed1 and then tied up in a cloth kept on purpose1 and boiled in plenty of water2 when done1 which will be according to the nature of the fruit you put in it1 serve it either turned out of the basin or not4 ,the cover should be of the same thickness as the sides4 ,sugar should be added before being covered4 #ggj4 ,apples should be pared1 cored1 and cut in quarters1 and put in with some sugar1 a few cloves1 and a bit of lemon-peel4 #gga4 ,wall fruit--as ,peaches1 ,nectarines1 ,apricots1 and ,plums1--should he cut in half1 and the kernels extracted from the stones and added1 a little cream1 according to the size of the pudding1 in which a little grated cinnamon is added1 may be put in at the same time as the fruit2 use but little sugar4 #ggb4 ,gooseberry1 ,rhubarb1 ,currants1 red1 white1 and black1 ,raspberry and ,cherry1 ,blackberry1 ,whorts1 ,damson1 and ,greengage--may all be made in a similar way4 #ggc4 ,mince ,meat4--,procure four pounds and a half of kidney beef suet1 which skin and chop very finely2 have also a quarter of a pound of candied lemon and orange-peel2 the same of citron1 a pound and a half of lean cooked beef1 and three pounds and a half of apples1 the whole separately1 chopped very fine1 and put into a large pan with four pounds and a half of currants1 well washed and picked1 two ounces of mixed spice1 and two pounds of sugar2 mix the whole well together with the juice of eight lemons and a pint of brandy1 place it in jars1 and tie down until ready for use2 a pound and a half of ,malaga raisins1 well stoned and chopped1 may likewise be added to the above4 ,it is ready for use in a few days4 #ggd4 ,mince ,pies4--,have a piece of puff-paste1 which roll out to the thickness of a penny-piece2 have also a dozen tartlet-pans1 which lightly butter1 cut out twelve pieces with a round cutter from the paste1 each the size of your tartlet-pans2 lay them upon the slab1 roll the trimming of the paste again to the former thickness1 cut twelve other pieces1 with which line the tartlet-pans2 put a piece of mince-meat1 made as under1 in each1 wet them round1 place on the lids1 pricking a hole with a pin in the centre1 and close them well at the edges2 egg over lightly1 and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate oven4 #gge4 ,fruit ,pies4--,these are made in pie-dishes1 the top of which is only covered with paste2 the edge of the dish should be wetted1 and a strip of paste1 about one inch wide and a quarter of an inch thick1 put on it1 then fill the dish with the fruit1 wet the paste on the edge1 and cover with paste1 mark the edge with a roller1 or the back of a knife4 #ggf4 ,apple ,pie4--,pare1 cut1 and core sufficient apples to fill the dish1 put a small cup in the middle or not1 as you like1 one clove1 to every three apples1 a pinch of pounded cinnamon1 a small piece of chopped lemon-peel1 and sugar2 bake according to size4 #ggg4 ,rhubarb and ,apple1 or ,rhubarb and ,gooseberry1 ,currant and ,raspberry1 ,cherry1 ,plum1 ,damson1 ,pear1 ,quince1 ,mulberry1 ,whortleberry1 or ,whorts and ,raspberry1 ,dewberry and ,raspberry1 or ,cranberry1 may all be made in the same way1 in winter4 ,a little whipped cream may be placed in the top1 for a variety4 ,,removes--,,second ,,course4 #ggh4 ,chestnut ,pudding1 ,nesselrode fashion4--,blanch four dozen chestnuts in boiling water1 skim and place them in the screen1 when dry take them out1 and when cold put them into a mortar1 with one pound of sugar1 and half a stick of vanilla1 pound the whole well together1 and sift it through a fine wire sieve1 put into a stewpan1 with the yolks of twelve eggs1 beat them well together2 in another stewpan have a quart of milk1 when boiling pour it over the other ingredients1 mixing well1 and stir over a sharp fire until it begins to thicken and adheres to the back of the spoon1 then lay a tammy upon a large dish1 pour the mixture in and rub it through with two wooden spoons2 when cold place it in a freezing-pot and freeze as directed 7,no4 #hcc72 when frozen have a large high ice-mould1 which closes hermetically1 have also two ounces of currants and two ounces of ,smyrna raisins1 soaked in four glasses of marasquino from the previous day1 with four ounces of candied citron cut in dice1 put them into the freezing-pot1 with a pint of whipped cream and half the meringue preparation directed in ,no4 #gaa2 freeze the whole well together and fill your mould1 which bury in ice and salt until ready to serve1 then dip it into lukewarm water1 and turn it out upon your dish4 #ggi4 ,iced ,cabinet ,pudding4--,have ready prepared1 and rather stale1 a sponge-cake as directed 7,no4 #hei71 which cut into slices half an inch thick1 and rather smaller than the mould you intend making the pudding in1 soak them well with noyeau brandy2 then lay some preserved dry cherries at the bottom of the mould1 with a few whole ratafias1 lay one of the slices over1 then more cherries and ratafias1 proceeding thus until the mould is three parts full2 have ready a quart of the custard 7,no4 #hjd71 omitting half the quantity of isinglass1 pour it lukewarm into your mould1 which close hermetically1 and bury in ice and salt1 where let it remain at least two hours2 when ready to serve dip it in lukewarm water1 and turn it out upon your dish2 you have made about half a pint of custard1 which keep upon ice1 pour over the pudding when ready to serve1 and sprinkle a few chopped pistachios over4 #ghj4 ,white ,almond ,pudding ,ices4--,blanch and skin a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds1 with six or eight bitter ones1 when dry and cold1 place them in a mortar1 with three quarters of a pound of sugar1 and ten or twelve leaves of candied orange-flowers1 pound well1 sift through a wire sieve1 and place it in a stewpan1 with the yolks of eight eggs1 beat them well together2 then in another stewpan have boiling a pint and a half of milk1 which pour over the other ingredients by degrees1 keeping it stirred1 place it upon the fire1 stirring until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon1 rub it through a tammy1 add two glasses of noyeau2 when cold put into your freezing-pot to freeze1 and when half frozen add a pint and a half of whipped cream1 when quite frozen fill a mould1 and serve as pudding ,nesselrode fashion4 #gha4 ,fruit1 ,chartreuse of1 with ,lemon ,jelly4--,make a chartreuse of fruit as directed 7,no4 #geb71 in a round or oval mould1 having a quantity of fruit left2 having also about a quart of orange jelly1 which place upon ice in a bowl1 whisking it until on the point of setting1 then place a layer of it in the chartreuse1 then a layer of the fruit1 the jelly1 and so on until quite filled1 place it upon ice1 and when set and ready to serve1 dip in lukewarm water1 and turn it out upon your dish2 serve garnished round with jelly in the skins of the oranges1 cut in quarters after it has set1 or leave out the garnishing4 #ghb4 ,souffl of ,orange ,iced4--,prepare about three parts of the quantity of ice as directed in the last1 to which1 when half frozen1 add a pint and a half of whipped orange jelly just upon the point of setting1 beat the whole well together with the spatula1 working it until well frozen3 have a dozen and a half of oranges1 peeled1 quartered1 and passed in sugar as directed for vol-au-vent1 and place them in a basin upon ice2 when ready to serve1 make a border of almond paste upon your dish1 in the centre of which put a little of the ice1 then a layer of oranges1 then the same and oranges again1 proceeding thus and finishing in pyramid2 garnish round with various small ripe fruits4 #ghc4 ,punch ,cake ,souffl4--,break ten eggs1 put the whites in a copper bowl1 and the yolks in a basin1 with four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar1 four of crushed ratafias1 two of potato flour1 a little salt1 and a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers1 beat well together1 whip the whites1 which stir in lightly with the mixture2 well butter and bread-crumb the interior of an oval plain mould1 butter also and bread-crumb a band of paper three inches broad1 which tie round at the top of the mould1 pour in the mixture1 and half an hour before ready to serve stand it in a moderate oven 7it will take about the above time to bake71 when done turn it out upon your dish2 have ready a custard of three yolks of eggs1 to which you have added two glasses of essence of punch1 pour round the cake and serve4 ,the above mixture may be baked in twelve small moulds and dressed in pyramid1 but then they would require more sauce4 ,,souffl4 ,these dishes1 being the last of the ,dinner1 require the greatest care and taste in executing1 as1 by the time they come on the table1 the appetites of those around it are supposed to be satisfied2 the eye and the palate require to be pleased1 in order to sustain the enjoyments of the table2 this is a period of dinner when another of the senses may be gratified by the introduction of music 7and which is continually practised on the ,continent71 and all ought to be of a light and inviting character4 ,formerly it was the custom never to give a dinner without a souffl as the last dish1 or professionally speaking1 remove4 ,i do not dislike them1 but they require the greatest care and nicety1 and are rather difficult to perform in our old-fashioned kitchens1 but easy in my new stove2 at any rate ,i must give you the receipt4 #ghd4 ,souffl of ,lemon1 or any other flavor4--,prepare a crust or croustade of fine paste 7,no4 #fhg71 or water paste1 by lining a raised pie-mould with it1 filling with bread-crumbs1 and finishing the edges as for a raised pie2 bake it 7of a very light brown color7 about an hour in a moderate oven1 when done1 empty out all the bread-crumbs without taking it out of the mould1 then tie a band of buttered paper 7four inches wide7 round the top1 and put it by until wanted4 ,put half a pound of butter in a stewpan1 with which mix three quarters of a pound of flour without melting it1 in another stewpan have rather more than a quart of milk1 into which1 when boiling1 put two sticks of vanilla1 place a cover upon the stewpan and let it remain until half cold1 then take out the vanilla1 and pour the milk upon the butter and flour1 stir over a sharp fire1 boiling it five minutes1 then stir in quickly the yolks of ten eggs1 and sweeten with half a pound of sugar2 when cold1 and an hour and a quarter before you are ready to serve1 whip the whites of the ten eggs very stiff1 stir them in with the mixture lightly1 pour it into the croustade1 and bake about an hour in a moderate oven2 if going too fast1 and liable to be done before required1 open the oven door1 as it ought to be served the moment it is done2 when ready to serve take it from the oven1 detach the band of paper1 take it from the mould1 dress it upon a napkin on a dish1 and serve immediately4 ,these souffls may be baked in a silver souffl-case1 if preferred1 they will take considerably less time in baking1 but fall quicker after being taken from the oven2 any liquor or spirits may be introduced in souffls of this description if approved of4 ,this is large enough for a dinner of eighteen2 a quarter of that quantity will make a nice family one1 baked in a plain tart-dish4 #ghe4 ,souffl of ,orange-flowers4--,proceed exactly as in the last1 but infusing an ounce of candied orange-flowers in the milk instead of the vanilla4 #ghf4 ,souffl of ,rice ,cream is made by using ground rice instead of the common flour1 finishing the same1 and using any of the flavors directed in the last three4 #ghg4 ,souffl of ,lemon4--,proceed as directed for souffl la vanille1 but infusing the rind of two lemons1 free from pith1 in the milk instead of the vanilla4 #ghh4 ,omelette ,souffl4--,break six eggs1 place the yolks in one basin and the whites in another2 add to the yolks three tablespoonfuls of lump sugar1 half one of fecule of potato or wheat flour1 and ten drops of orange-flower water2 beat well together2 whip the whites1 beginning rather slowly at first1 increasing by degrees1 until it forms a stiff froth2 then add the yolks1 very gently beating up the whites as you add it3 have ready a silver or plated dish 7for want of either1 use tin71 and butter it well2 place the mixture on it1 and put it into a hot oven2 look that it rises2 if so1 run a knife round it2 sift some sugar on it1 place it in the oven again1 and serve1 when well raised1 immediately4 #ghi4 ,omelette ,souffl ,saut4--,the mixture is prepared precisely as the last1 but the appearance and flavor are very different1 being produced by the different method of cooking them2 put an ounce of butter into a very clean omelette-pan over the fire2 when melted1 pour in half the preparation1 place it over a very brisk fire a few seconds1 then twist it round in the pan1 which give a jerk1 tossing the omelette half-way over1 stand it over the fire again1 give the pan another jerk1 tossing the omelette again over1 and turn it out upon your dish1 set it in the oven1 and proceed the same with the remainder of the preparation1 which when done turn over upon the other2 leave it in the oven about a quarter of an hour1 sprinkle sugar over1 salamander and serve very quickly4 ,the butter the souffl is saut in gives it a superior flavor to the last4 #gij4 ,cream ,omelette ,souffl4--,proceed as in the last1 deducting two of the whites of eggs1 and adding a gill of whipped cream1 saut and serve as before4 #gia4 ,souffl ,biscuits4--,put the yolks of five eggs in a basin1 and the whites in a copper bowl1 add a pound of sugar1 upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon previous to pounding1 beat it well with the yolks of the eggs1 then add a gill of cream1 well whipped1 and five ounces of flour2 stir all together lightly1 whip the whites of the eggs very stiff1 and stir them into the preparation2 have ready ten small paper cases1 fill each one three parts full1 and fifteen minutes before serving place them in a moderate oven2 when done shake sugar over1 dress in pyramids1 upon a napkin1 and serve4 #gib4 ,souffl1 or ,whipped ,cream4--,take one quart of cream1 put it into a bowl1 with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar1 and orange-flower powder of water1 and have another bowl near you1 over which you must place a sieve to receive and drain the cream1 whip the cream with a whisk1 or blow it up with a bellows made on purpose1 and as it rises in a froth1 take it off with a spoon1 and place it on the sieve2 continue till all is used1 then put back the drainings1 and continue until you have none left1 then put it into your dish or in glasses1 or on a trifle1 and ornament with nonpareils1 or with green citron peel or angelica cut very fine and tastefully4 ,it can likewise be iced4 #gic4 ,coffee ,souffl ,cream4--,take about a quarter of a pound of clean raw coffee1 heat it in a clean saut-pan on the fire1 so that it gets hot through1 but does not burn1 then put it into one quart of cream1 and cover it up2 let it cool as quickly as possible on ice1 add five ounces of powdered sugar1 and proceed as above4 #gid4 ,vanilla ,souffl ,cream4--,cut a pod of vanilla small1 pound it with sugar1 sift it through a fine sieve1 and add it to your cream1 or add some drops of essence of vanilla1 and proceed as directed above4 #gie4 ,fondue of ,parmesan and ,gruyre1 or any other grated ,cheese4--,put a quarter of a pound of butter and six ounces of flour in a stewpan1 mix them well together 7without melting the butter7 with a wooden spoon1 then add rather more than a pint of boiling milk1 stir over the fire1 boil twenty minutes1 then add the yolks of five eggs 7stir in well71 half a pound of grated ,parmesan1 and a quarter of a pound of grated ,gruyre cheese2 season with half a teaspoonful of salt1 a quarter do4 of pepper1 and half a saltspoonful of cayenne2 if too thick add two or three whole eggs to give it the consistency of a souffl1 whip the five whites of egg firm1 stir them gently into the mixture1 have ready a croustade prepared as for the souffl 7,no4 #ghd71 pour in the above mixture1 and bake it in a moderate oven2 it will require a little longer time than the souffl2 dish and serve the same4 #gif4 ,neapolitan ,fondue4--,prepare half of the mixture as in the last1 but previous to adding the whites of eggs stir in a quarter of a pound of good macaroni blanched1 and cut into pieces an inch in length2 add the whites1 bake1 and serve as before4 #gig4 ,fondue 7simple method74--,put two ounces of ,gruyre and two ounces of ,parmesan cheese 7grated7 into a basin 7or1 if you have not got them1 use ,english cheese71 with a little salt1 pepper1 and cayenne1 add the yolks of six eggs1 with a quarter of a pound of butter melted 7mix well71 whip the whites of the six eggs1 stir gently into the other ingredients1 fill small paper cases with it1 bake about a quarter of an hour in a moderate oven1 dress upon a napkin1 and serve very hot4 #gih4 ,fondue of ,stilton ,cheese4--,put six ounces of butter and half a pound of flour in a stewpan1 rub well together with a wooden spoon1 then add a quart of warm milk1 stir over the fire a quarter of an hour1 then add the yolks of eight eggs1 three quarters of a pound of grated ,parmesan1 and half a pound of ,stilton cheese in small dice1 season rather highly with pepper1 salt1 and cayenne1 add the white of the eggs whipped very stiff1 which stir in lightly2 have a dozen and a half of small paper cases1 fill each one three parts full1 place them in a moderate oven1 bake about twenty minutes2 when done dress them upon a napkin on your dish1 and serve very hot4 #gii4 ,cheese ,raminole4--,put a gill of water in a stewpan1 to which add two ounces of ,gruyre and the same quantity of ,parmesan cheese 7grated71 two ounces of butter1 a little cayenne pepper1 and salt if required1 set it upon the fire1 and when boiling stir in two or three spoonfuls of flour2 keep stirring over the fire until the paste becomes dryish and the bottom of the stewpan quite white1 then add three or four eggs by degrees1 until forming a paste like ,no4 #gbd1 butter a baking-sheet well1 and lay the paste out in pieces upon it with a tablespoon1 making them long1 and half the size of the bowl of the spoon2 egg over1 and lay a small piece of ,gruyre cheese upon each1 put them into the oven about twenty minutes before they are required2 bake them a little crisp1 and serve very hot1 dressed in pyramid upon a napkin4 #hjj4 ,puff ,cheesecake4--,make half a pound of paste 7,no4 #fhf71 which roll very thin1 have ready some grated ,parmesan and ,gruyre cheese mixed1 throw half a handful over the paste1 which fold in three1 roll it out to the same thickness again1 cover again with cheese1 proceeding thus until you have used the whole of the cheese 7half a pound71 then cut them into any shapes you like with pastry cutters1 set on a wet baking-sheet1 egg them over1 bake a nice color in a moderate oven1 dress in pyramid upon a napkin on a dish1 and serve very hot4 #hja4 ,cheese ,souffl1 or ,diablotins4--,put a gill of milk in a stewpan1 with two ounces of butter2 when boiling1 stir in two spoonfuls of flour1 keep stirring over the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is dry1 then add four eggs by degrees1 half a pound of ,gruyre1 and half a pound of grated ,parmesan cheese2 mix well in1 season with pepper1 salt1 and cayenne rather highly1 mould the paste into little balls with the forefinger against the side of the stewpan containing it1 drop them into hot lard2 fry of a nice light brown1 dress in pyramid upon a napkin1 and serve very hot2 a quarter of that quantity may of course be made4 #hjb4 ,turban of ,almond ,cake ,iced4--,this is a very good and useful second course remove4 ,make half a pound of puff paste1 give it nine rolls1 rolling it the last time to the thickness of a penny-piece1 have ready blanched and chopped half a pound of sweet almonds1 which put in a basin with half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs1 or a little more if required2 spread it over the paste the thickness of a shilling1 and with a knife cut the paste into pieces two inches and a half in length and nearly one in breadth1 place them upon a baking-sheet1 and bake nicely a very light brown color1 in a moderate oven1 dress them on a stiff border of any kind of stiff jam or marmalade1 so as to form a large crown according to the size you require it2 then fill the interior with vanilla cream1 or any other1 iced1 but not too hard1 and bring it up to a point2 the cake may be cut in any shape you fancy1 but never make them too large4 #hjc4 ,turban of ,pastry4--,observe that any kind of pastry fourre1 as ,no4 #gab1 or meringue1 ,no4 #gaa1 will1 if dished as above1 with iced cream1 make a very nice remove4 #hjd4 ,custard for ,puddings4--,take one pint of milk1 to which add the yolks of two eggs1 and beat up1 add a quarter of a pound of sugar1 half a saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon and nutmeg1 and a bay-leaf4 ,for mould puddings1 the mould should be filled first with the bread1 c41 and the custard added2 should it be wanted alone in glasses1 it must then be put into a saucepan on the fire until it nearly boils1 keep stirring it well during the time4 #hje4 ,batter for ,fritters4--,take half a pound of flour1 one ounce of butter1 which melt1 the whites of three eggs well beaten1 half a glass of beer1 and enough water to make a thick batter4 ,,dessert4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,xvi ,,ma ,,chere ,,eloise1--,remembering your admiration of the small dessert ,i put on the table at my last birth-day party1 you will1 ,i am confident1 feel interested in the description of desserts in general1 and ,i will give you a few more hints and receipts1 which will tend both to economize as well as gratify the palate and sight2 and very different in style from some of our visitors1 who1 though they spend their money freely enough when they give their ,christmas party1 but still keep up the old style of covering their table with dry sweet stuff1 and1 in the way of fruits1 display oranges in their original golden skin1 ,ribston pippins in their mournful ones1 ,american apples with their vermilion cheeks1 large winter pears in their substantial state1 the whole ornamented and crowned with laurel1 no doubt to signify their immortality1 being present upon almost every table from year to year1 especially the unsociable pear1 which no teeth can ever injure1 but1 on the contrary1 it may injure the teeth4 ,a very comical friend assured us1 as a fact1 that he had met one of the before-mentioned pears in three different parties in less than a week1 having1 for curiosity's sake1 engraved his initial with a penknife upon one he was served with at the first party4 ,and1 talk about pine-apples1 said he1 many times ,i have had the pleasure of meeting with the same1 and even as much as twice in less than twelve hours1 quite in a different direction1 that is1 on a dinner-table in the west-end about eight in the evening1 and1 at midnight1 on the supper-table of a civic ball2 at dinner being perched on an elevated stand in the centre of a large wide table1 so much out of reach that it would almost require a small ladder to get at it2 and ,i must say that every guest present paid due respect to his high position1 and never made an assault1 or even an attempt to disturb1 much less to uncrown his fruity majesty1 though1 now and then1 one of the fair guests1 as a compliment1 would remark to the amphitrion1 that she never saw in her life a finer pine-apple4 ',very fine1 very fine indeed1 madam6 will you allow me to offer you part of an orange8' ',not any more1 ,i thank you1 sir1' being the reply4 ,on the supper table this aristocratic and inaccessible pine still holds its kingly rank1 and is still proudly perched on the top of a sideboard1 surrounded by ,portugal or ,rhenish grapes1 and to prevent its dethronement by removing the grapes the intelligent waiter has carefully tied it to the ornament that supports it4 ,our friend1 who is a literary gentleman1 has promised to write a small brochure1 to be called the ',memoirs of a ,pineapple in ,london1' which ,i am confident1 will not fail of being very interesting1 having had the advantage of mixing in so many different societies4 ,i know1 dearest1 what will be your feeling after the perusal of the above1 that ,i have given vent to a little scandal2 but it is the truth1 and of almost daily occurrence1 so that there is no mystery about it4 ,i do not mean that it is very general1 but is certainly often practised2 for my part1 you know my style3 ,i never attempt to astonish my guests with extensive wonders of nature and art in any shape of eatable1 but simply follow the middle prices1 by which ,i always can procure the best quality of article in comestibles2 and nothing pleases me more when ,i give a party than that every dish on the table should be partaken of1 and still more so when entirely eaten4 ,i do not approve of meanness2 though a great economist1 ,i abhor it as much as ,i do extravagance2 and we never1 ,i assure you1 give a single party without being perfectly satisfied that it does not interfere with our daily comforts1 that is1 as regards financial matters4 ,for dessert in summer ,i confine it entirely to fresh fruit1 compotes1 ices1 and a few almond cakes1 and ,savoy biscuits4 ,fruits1 preserves1 oranges1 compotes1 and biscuits in winter4 ,the list of names ,i here inclose to you consists of moderately priced articles1 and will enable you to make a good appearance for your dessert1 and at a trifling expense4 ,the first thing ,i wish you to be initiated in is1 what is called in ,france compote1 which may be made almost from any kind of fruits1 especially apples1 pears1 apricots1 plums1 greengages1 peaches1 cherries1 gooseberry1 oranges1 c4 ,it was on my second visit to ,havre that ,i took lessons in confectionery2 ,i paid as much as ten shillings per lesson to ,m4 ,bombe ,glac1 that being the nom de guerre of the first confectioner there2 but you know1 dearest1 how quick ,i am learning1 especially anything in the way of cookery4 ,i really must say ,i do love cooking1 so you may fancy that the clever artist1 ,monsieur le ,confiseur1 had not very many of our demi-souvereign1 as he called them1 from us2 my ,mr4 ,b4 thought at the time that it was quite ridiculous and extravagant to pay so much for a trifle like that2 but let me tell you1 dear1 he had not then tasted them2 but now all the wall-and tree-fruits from our garden1 if ,i were to follow entirely his taste1 would be converted into compote1 he being so remarkably fond of it4 ,,compote4 ,procure a very clean tin stewpan or a small sugar-pan2 it being more preferable for boiling sugar1 why ,i cannot tell1 never having asked the reason1 being so anxious to know other things which ,i thought more serviceable4 ,since ,i have tried it in a common stewpan1 it has answered very well2 and knowing by experience that your culinary laboratory is still in its innocent infancy1 you might be prevented from making an immediate experiment by waiting till you could get one2 you may use that three-pint size stewpan for it1 which ,i lent you for a pattern about three weeks ago1 and after which ,i shall feel extremely gratified by its reappearance on my kitchen shelf at ,no4 #e1 being out of the middle row of them1 because every time ,i enter my kitchen it puts me in mind of a very pretty woman minus one of her front teeth4 ,excuse me if ,i claim it of you1 but ,i want to teach you punctuality as well as economy4 #hjf4 ,winter ,pears4--,to put an end to its long and hard existence1 ,i would cut it into six or eight pieces lengthwise1 peel and cut out the cores1 giving them a nice shape2 then put them into a stewpan1 with a quarter of a pound of sugar1 a gill of port wine1 the thin rind of a lemon1 a little cinnamon1 and half a pint of water2 let them simmer gently about an hour or until tender2 when done1 put them into a basin1 reduce the syrup until thickish if required1 and pour over2 when cold they are ready to serve4 ,a little prepared cochineal mixed with the syrup very much improves their appearance4 ,a dish composed half of these and half of the white has a very pretty appearance4 ,by placing a layer of marmalade among them1 at the bottom of the dish1 you may dish them in crown1 or any shape you like4 #hjg4 ,compote of ,peaches4--,put half a pound of lump sugar 7broken into small pieces7 into a stewpan1 with a quarter of a pint of water1 which set upon the fire to boil until forming a thickish syrup2 you have previously cut four ripe peaches in halves1 lay them carefully in the boiling syrup to simmer a couple of minutes1 then carefully remove them with a colander-spoon on to a hair-sieve to drain1 when remove the skins1 and dress the peaches neatly upon your dessert-dish2 reduce the syrup until of a good consistency1 and when cold pour it over1 and they are ready to serve4 #hjh4 ,compote of ,apples4--,procure six nice ripe apples1 but not too large1 which peel1 cut in halves1 and cut out the cores1 rub each piece over with a little lemon1 and put them into boiling syrup made as last directed1 but with the juice of a lemon1 and the rind cut into small fillets added2 let the apple stew until tender1 but not broken1 when drain them upon a sieve1 reduce the syrup2 and when both are cold1 dress the apple neatly upon your dish1 and pour the syrup over4 ,a little green angelique1 cut in various shapes1 will make a pretty ornament on any white compote4 #hji4 ,compote of small ,apples1 served whole4--,select nine small golden pippins1 each as nearly as possible of an equal size1 and with a long round vegetable cutter1 of the size of a sixpenny piece1 cut out the cores1 then peel them very thin and smooth1 rub their surface with lemon juice1 and throw them into a basin of spring water2 have ready boiling half a pint of syrup1 made as before directed1 to which add the rind of a lemon 7cut into thin strips71 and the juice1 lay in the apples1 which let simmer very gently until quite tender1 when drain them upon a hair-sieve1 and reduce the syrup until thickish2 when quite cold1 dress the apples upon your dish1 five at the bottom1 three upon them1 and one upon the top2 when ready to serve1 pour the syrup over4 #haj4 ,compote of ,green ,apricots4--,have a pottle of green apricots1 from which pick off all the stalks1 and throw them into a stewpan containing a quart of boiling water1 and let them boil very fast for ten minutes1 and drain them upon a sieve3 have ready half a pint of syrup made as before directed1 in which boil them until tender1 but not to break1 and thicken the syrup1 pour the whole into a basin until quite cold2 should the syrup then be too thin1 strain it off into the stewpan to reduce to a proper consistency1 pouring it again over the apricots when quite cold4 ,dish tastefully4 #haa4 ,compote of ,greengages4--,procure twelve greengages1 not quite ripe1 each of which cut into halves2 have ready boiling half a pint of syrup1 as before directed1 into which put half the fruit1 let it simmer a couple of minutes1 then remove them with a colander-spoon1 draining them upon a sieve2 then put in the remainder1 with which proceed in the same manner2 remove the skins1 put the fruit into a basin1 reduce the syrup until thickish1 and when cold1 pour it over the fruit1 which is then ready to serve4 ,any description of plums may be dressed in precisely the same method4 #hab4 ,compote of ,apricots4--,procure six very fine ripe apricots1 which divide into halves2 have ready half a pint of boiling syrup reduced quite thick1 in which let them simmer about a minute1 when pour the whole into a basin until cold2 should the fruit not be quite ripe1 they would require longer time to simmer4 ,i frequently break the stones and blanch the kernels to add to the compote2 they are a great improvement1 also1 to cherries and plums4 #hac4 ,compote of ,cherries4--,take a pound of fine cherries1 not too ripe1 and cut away half the stalks with a pair of scissors2 have half a pint of syrup1 which boil until very thick1 when add half of the cherries1 and boil them two or three minutes1 take them out with a colander-spoon1 drain them upon a sieve1 and proceed the same with the remaining half2 reduce the syrup until very thick1 dress the cherries pyramidically upon your dish1 stalks uppermost1 and when the syrup is cold1 pour it over1 and serve4 #had4 ,compote of ,oranges4--,make a pint of syrup as before2 have six fine oranges1 which skin carefully1 scraping off as much of the pith as possible2 divide each orange into eight entire pieces1 without breaking the delicate skin with which they are divided2 when the syrup is very thick1 put in the pieces of oranges1 which simmer gently for five minutes1 when take them out with a colander-spoon1 and drain them upon a sieve2 reduce the syrup very quickly until thickish1 and when cold1 pour it over the oranges1 which will be then ready to serve4 ,half the rind of the oranges1 free from pith1 cut into small fillets1 are a great improvement boiled in the syrup4 #hae4 ,compote of ,french ,plums4--,put half a pound of ,french plums into a stewpan1 with a gill of water1 the same of wine1 the rind of half a lemon cut thin1 two cloves1 and a good spoonful of sugar1 let them simmer about twenty minutes1 and when cold take out the lemon and cloves1 and they are ready to serve4 ,,compotes ,,of ,,fruit ,,simplified4 ,as ,i usually make them when alone1 or1 if not1 for a very ceremonious dinner-party4 ,the whole of the following must be done over a very slow fire4 #haf4 ,pears4--,cut six ripe middling-sized pears in halves1 peel neatly1 cut out the cores1 and put them into a stewpan1 with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar1 the juice of a lemon1 the thin rind cut into strips1 and a very little drop of water1 set them upon the fire1 stewing them until tender2 they will form their own syrup2 put them in a basin until cold1 when they are ready to serve4 #hag4 ,pippins4--,peel and cut four apples into quarters1 take out the cores1 and stew them as directed for pears1 but using the rind of an orange instead of the rind of a lemon4 #hah4 ,oranges4--,prepare four oranges as directed 7,no4 #had71 which put into a stewpan1 with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar1 and the juice of another orange2 set them upon the fire1 and when the syrup becomes sufficiently thick to adhere to the pieces of orange1 they are done2 when cold1 dress them in a circle upon your dish1 with strips of angelica between each4 #hai4 ,apricots4--,cut eight unripe apricots into quarters1 which put into a stewpan1 with four ounces of sugar1 the juice of a lemon1 and a drop of sherry1 set them upon the fire1 shaking the stewpan round occasionally1 until the apricots are tender1 but not broken2 a very few minutes would be sufficient to stew them1 and when cold1 they are ready to serve4 ,for ,peaches1 proceed exactly the same2 but if too ripe1 they must be done as directed for compote of peaches4 #hbj4 ,greengages and other ,plums4--,put twelve into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of sugar1 the juice of a lemon and a little drop of water1 set them over the fire1 shaking the stewpan round occasionally until the fruit is tender1 but not mashed2 when cold1 dress them in pyramid1 and pour the syrup over4 #hba4 ,cherries4--,cut the stalks of a pound of cherries rather short1 and put the fruit into a stewpan1 with a quarter of a pound of sugar and the juice of a lemon2 place them over the fire 7occasionally shaking the pan round71 letting them simmer about two minutes1 when take them out with a colander-spoon1 and put them into a basin until cold1 reduce the syrup1 to which add sufficient isinglass to set it as a jelly1 and pour it upon a large plate until set1 when dress the cherries pyramidically1 just dip the bottom of the plate containing the syrup into warm water1 and turn it as a jelly over the cherries4 #hbb4 ,green ,gooseberries4--,put a pint of green gooseberries into a stewpan with two ounces of sugar and a little sherry1 place them over a sharp fire1 as the quicker they cook the better color they will keep2 when tender but not broken1 pour them into a basin1 and when cold they are ready to serve4 #hbc4 ,red ,rhubarb4--,the small forced rhubarb 7,mitchell's ,royal ,albert7 is by far the best4 ,cut about half a pound of it into pieces half an inch in length1 which put into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a wineglassful of water2 set it over a sharp fire1 occasionally shaking the stewpan round1 and when quite tender pour it into a basin until cold2 when it is ready to serve1 should the syrup be too thin1 add sufficient isinglass to set it1 and when cold dress it pyramidically upon your dish4 #hbd4 ,currants and ,raspberries4--,pick the stalks from a pint of currants1 which put into a stewpan with half a pint of raspberries and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar2 set them upon the fire1 shaking the stewpan round occasionally until boiling1 when pour them into a basin to cool4 ,should the syrup be too thin1 which would be the case if the fruit is too ripe1 drain the fruit from it1 reduce it by boiling1 and when cold1 pour it again over the fruit1 which will then be ready to serve4 #hbe4 ,royal ,iceing for ,cakes4--,have ready a pound of the best white sugar1 which pound well and sift through a silk sieve1 put it into a basin with the whites of three eggs1 beat well together with a wooden spoon1 adding the juice of half a lemon1 keep beating well until it becomes very light and hangs in flakes from the spoon 7if it should be rather too stiff in mixing1 add a little more white of egg1 if1 on the contrary1 too soft1 a little more sugar71 it is then ready for use where required4 #hbf4 ,chocolate ,iceing for ,cakes is made similar to the last1 but when finished have ready a piece of the common chocolate1 which melt in a stewpan over the fire1 keeping it stirred2 when quite melted stir some of it in with the iceing until you have obtained the color required1 moistening the iceing with a little more white of egg1 and use where directed4 #hbg4 ,sugar in ,grains is made by pounding a quantity of sugar in a mortar1 and sifting off all the fine through a hair-sieve1 then again what remains in the sieve put into a rather coarse wire sieve1 and that which passes through is what is meant by the above term4 #hbh4 ,how to give color to ,sugar4--,prepare about half a pound of the sugar as in the last1 which put upon a baking-sheet2 have a spoonful of the essence of spinach1 which stir in with the sugar until every gram is stained1 then put them in a warmish place to dry1 but not too hot3 to color them red1 use a little prepared cochineal or liquid carmine1 instead of the spinach1 and proceed exactly the same3 sugar may be made of other colors by the use of indigo1 rouge1 saffron1 c42 but not being partial to such a variety of coloring1 ,i have merely given the red and the green1 which1 with the white1 ,i consider to be sufficient for any of the purposes for which they are used4 #hbi4 ,sugar of ,vanilla4--,chop a stick of well-frosted vanilla very small1 and put it into a mortar1 with half a pound of lump sugar1 pound the whole well together in a mortar1 sift through a hair sieve1 and put by in a bottle or jar1 corking it up tight1 and using where required4 #hcj4 ,sugar of ,lemon4--,rub the rind of some fresh lemons upon a large piece of sugar1 and as it discolors the part upon which it is rubbed scrape it off with a knife2 when you have obtained a sufficient quantity1 dry a little in the screen1 and bottle for use where required4 ,orange sugar may be made in the same manner1 substituting very red oranges for the lemons4 #hca4 ,how to make clear ,sugar4--,break three pounds of fine white sugar1 the hardest and closest grained is the best1 put it into a sugar-pan1 with three pints of clear spring water1 set over a sharp fire1 and when beginning to boil place it at the corner to simmer1 and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon1 skim well and reduce to two thirds1 it is then ready to use for jellies4 ,if not able to obtain the best quality of sugar1 it would be necessary to use white of eggs as an assistance in the clarification1 by putting the white of one egg in a basin and whipping it well with a pint of cold water1 add half of it to the sugar1 whipping it well in1 let simmer1 adding the remainder by degrees whilst simmering1 and passing it through a fine cloth into a basin4 ,the boiling of sugar is divided into seven different degrees1 which may be ascertained by the following directions3-- ,the first degree is known by dipping a copper skimmer into it whilst boiling1 turning it over two or three times1 if the sugar falls from it in sheets it has attained the first degree4 ,the second is known by boiling your sugar rather longer1 dipping your finger and thumb into cold water1 then your finger into the boiling sugar1 putting your finger and thumb together1 and again opening them1 it will form a kind of thread2 if it is too weak boil a little longer1 this is the most useful degree for fruit or water ices4 ,the third degree is attained by boiling it a little longer1 and trying it in the same manner1 upon the thread baking1 should it form a kind of pearl1 it has attained the above degree2 the sugar in boiling would also be covered with a quantity of small bubbles resembling pearls4 ,the fourth degree is attained by boiling it still longer1 dip a skimmer into it1 turn1 take out and blow it hard1 when the sugar will form little bladders and float in the air1 this degree is called the souffl4 ,for the fifth degree boil still longer1 trying it in the same manner1 but blowing harder1 the bladders will be larger and adhere together1 forming feathers2 this degree is called la plume1 or the feather4 ,the sixth is called le petit case1 and is obtained by boiling the sugar a little longer3 to know this degree have a pint of cold water in a basin1 into which you have put a piece of ice1 dip your finger into it1 then into the boiling sugar1 and then into the water again1 take the piece which adheres to the finger and bite1 if rather crisp1 but sticking to the teeth1 it has attained that degree4 ,the seventh and last requires great attention1 to attain it boil rather longer1 dip your finger in as before1 if it cracks and does not at all adhere to the teeth in biting it is done1 take from the fire1 and it is ready for use for making any kind of sugar ornament4 ,when intended for such purposes1 however1 add a little tartaric acid when it arrives to the degree la plume and pour it into a smaller sugar-pan1 allowing it to reach the rims1 it will be then unable to burn round the sides as if in a larger pan2 if such a thing should1 however1 happen in a larger pan1 wipe the interior of the pan round with a sponge previously dipped in cold water1 or it would discolor the sugar4 ,ornaments of spun sugar ,i have a very great dislike to for a dinner2 but1 if required1 the sugar must be boiled to the last degree4 ,should the sugar grain it may be brought back by adding more water1 and when dissolved1 boiling over again2 in spinning sugar you must keep the bulk of it in a warm temperature1 having a little in a smaller pan for use1 which keep in a melted state by placing it in a bain-marie of hot water1 or in a hot closet4 #hcb4 ,silk ,thread1 or ,spun ,sugar4--,having boiled your sugar to the seventh degree1 as in the last1 oil the handle of a wooden spoon1 tie two forks together1 the prongs turned outwards1 dip them lightly into the sugar1 take out and shake them to and fro1 the sugar running from them over the spoon forming fine silken threads1 proceeding thus until you have as much as you require1 take it from the spoon and form it with your hands into whatever may be directed for the garnishing of any dish1 not1 however1 too thick1 or it would look heavy4 ,an experienced hand would prefer doing it from the lip of the sugar-pan4 ,other kinds of ornaments from sugar are made in a similar manner by oiling a mould or shape and running fillets of the sugar from the lip of the pan over it as tastefully as possible1 but as ,i have not referred to it in this work ,i will not enter into its details4 ,these are more fit for suppers than dinners4 #hcc4 ,vanilla ,ice ,cream4--,put the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan1 with half a pound of sugar1 beat well together with a wooden spoon1 in another stewpan have a quart of milk1 and when boiling throw in two sticks of vanilla1 draw it from the fire1 place on the lid and let remain until partly cold1 pour it over the eggs and sugar in the other stewpan1 mix well1 and place it over the fire 7keeping it stirred7 until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon1 when pass it through a tammy into a basin1 let remain until cold1 then have ready a pewter freezing-pot in an ice-pail well surrounded with ice and salt2#h put the above preparation into it1 place on the lid1 which must fit rather tightly1 and commence twisting the pot round sharply1 keeping it turned for about ten minutes1 when take off the lid1 and with your spatula clear the sides of the interior of the pot1 place the lid on again1 turn the pot ten minutes longer1 when again clear the sides and beat the whole well together1 until smooth1 it being then about half frozen1 then add four glasses of noyeau or maresquino and a pint and a half of cream well whipped1 beat the whole well together1 place the lid upon the top1 keep twisting it round a quarter of an hour1 clear well from the sides1 beat again well together1 proceeding thus until the whole is frozen into a stiff but smooth and mellow substance2 should you require to keep it some time before serving1 pour the water which has run from the ice out of the pail1 and add fresh ice and salt2 when ready to serve work it up smoothly with your spatula1 fill the mould and proceed as ,no4 #ggh4 #hcd4 ,coffee ,ice ,cream4--,proceed exactly as in the last1 but omitting the noyeau or maresquino1 and making an infusion with coffee as directed 7,no4 #dj7 instead of vanilla4 #hce4 ,ice of ,chocolate is made similar to the vanilla ice cream1 but omitting the vanilla and liqueur1 in the room of which scrape a quarter of a pound of chocolate1 place it in a stewpan over the fire and keep stirring until melted1 then have ready boiling a quart of milk1 which mix with the chocolate by degrees1 finish with eggs and sugar1 and freeze as before4 #hcf4 ,ice of ,pine-apple4--,procure a rather small pine-apple1 take off the rind1 which reserve1 and cut the apple into pieces an inch in length and about the thickness of a quill1 place them in a sugar-pan1 with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water1 set it upon the fire and reduce to a rather thickish syrup1 have ready a pint and a half of milk upon the fire1 into which1 when boiling1 throw the rind of the pine-apple1 cover it over and let infuse ten minutes2 in another stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs1 to which add the milk by degrees 7previously straining it71 place over the fire1 keeping it stirred until adhering to the back of the spoon1 when pass it through a tammy into a basin1 add the syrup and pine-apple1 and freeze it as in the last1 adding a pint and a half of whipped cream2 when half frozen1 use where directed4 #hcg4 ,lemon ,ice ,cream4--,take the rind from six lemons as thin as possible and free from pith1 squeeze the juice of the lemons into a sugar-pan1 with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water1 place it upon the fire and reduce until rather a thickish syrup1 have a pint and a half of milk upon the fire1 into which1 when boiling1 throw the rind of the lemons1 cover over and let remain until half cold2 in another stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs 7to which you have added an ounce of sugar71 with which mix the milk by degrees1 and stir over the fire till it adheres to the back of the spoon1 when stir in the syrup and pass it through a tammy2 when cold1 freeze as directed 7,no4 #hcc71 adding a pint of whipped cream when half frozen4 #hch4 ,orange ,ice ,cream4--,proceed precisely as in the last1 but using the juice and rind of ten oranges instead of lemons as there directed4 #hci4 ,apricot ,ice ,cream4--,procure a dozen and a half of fine ripe apricots1 which cut in halves1 take out the stones1 which break1 extracting the kernels1 which blanch in very hot water and skin1 then put them with the apricots into a sugar-pan1 with half a pound of sugar and half a glassful of water1 let them boil until almost forming a marmalade1 when put them by in a basin1 have the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan1 with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk1 set over the fire1 keeping it stirred until thick enough to adhere to the back of the spoon1 when pass it through a tammy into a basin1 add the syrup and apricots1 and1 when cold1 three glasses of noyeau1 freeze as in ,no4 #hcc1 and1 when half frozen1 add a pint of good whipped cream4 #hdj4 ,strawberry ,ice ,cream4--,procure about two pounds of fine ripe strawberries1 which pick and rub through a hair-sieve with a wooden spoon1 obtaining all the juice and pulp of the strawberries1 with which mix half a pound of powdered sugar and put it by in a basin2 in a stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs1 with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk1 stir over the fire until it becomes thickish1 adhering to the back of the spoon1 when pass it through a tammy1 and when cold add the juice from the strawberries and three glasses of maraschino1 freeze it as directed 7,no4 #hcc71 adding a pint of whipped cream when half frozen and sufficiently prepared2 cochineal1 to give it a strawberry color1 if approved of4 #hda4 ,marmalade of ,apple4--,peel and cut thirty apples in slices1 taking out the cores1 and1 if for preserving1 to every pound of fruit put three quarters of a pound of broken sugar 7but1 if for immediate use1 half a pound would be quite sufficient71 place the whole in a large preserving-pan1 with half a spoonful of powdered cinnamon and the rind of a lemon chopped very fine1 set the pan over a sharp fire1 stirring it occasionally until boiling1 when keep stirring until becoming rather thick2 it is then done3 if for immediate use1 a smaller quantity would be sufficient1 which put by in a basin until cold2 but if to keep any time put it in jars1 which cover over with paper1 and tie down until wanted4 #hdb4 ,marmalade of ,apricots4--,stone about eight pounds of ripe fleshy apricots1 break the stones1 and blanch and skin the kernels1 which with the apricots put into a preserving-pan1 add six pounds of sugar and place it over a sharp fire1 stirring occasionally until boiling1 when keep stirring until becoming rather thick1 take it off1 put it in jars1 and when cold tie paper over1 and put by until ready for use4 #hdc4 ,quince ,jam ,pure4--,procure a sieve of fine ripe quinces1 which peel and cut in four1 taking out the cores1 place them in a large preserving-pan and cover with cold water2 set upon the fire1 and when boiling and tender to the touch1 place them in a large sieve to drain one hour1 pass them through a tammy1 then have ready a corresponding weight of sugar boiled to the sixth degree 7,no4 #hca7 in the preserving-pan1 to which add the pure of quinces1 keep stirring over the fire till forming thin sheets1 drop a little upon the cover of a stewpan1 if it sets quickly take it from the fire1 put it in small jars1 and let remain a day until quite cold1 when tie them down1 and put by until wanted4 #hdd4 ,apricot ,marmalade ,jam4--,procure a quantity of very ripe apricots1 each of which cut into four or six pieces1 break the stones and blanch the kernels1 put the apricots in a preserving-pan with a small quantity of water1 boil them until quite tender1 when pass them through a sieve2 to every pound of fruit have three quarters of a pound of sugar 7in a preserving-pan7 boiled to the sixth degree 7,no4 #hca71 add the apricots with their kernels1 and keep stirring over the fire1 until forming thin transparent sheets1 try when done as in the last1 and put away in pots4 ,the marmalade would be still more transparent if you were to peel the apricots first1 but then you would lose some of their delicious flavor4 #hde4 ,marmalade of ,cherries4--,procure a sieve of bright ,kentish cherries1 pull out the stalks and stones1 and put the fruit in a preserving-pan1 place over the fire1 keeping it stirred until reduced to two-thirds2 have in another preserving-pan1 to every pound of fruit1 half a pound of sugar boiled to the sixth degree 7,no4 #hca71 into which pour the fruit when boiling hot1 let reduce1 keep stirring until you can just see the bottom of the pan1 when take it from the fire1 and fill your jars as before4 ,a plainer way is to take off the stalks and stone the fruit1 place them in a pan over a sharp fire1 and to every pound of fruit add nearly a pound of sugar1 keep stirring until reduced as above1 and let it get partly cold in the pan before filling the jars4 #hdf4 ,strawberry ,jam4--,pick twelve pounds of very red ripe strawberries1 which put into a preserving-pan1 with ten pounds of sugar 7broken into smallish pieces71 place over a sharp fire1 keep continually stirring1 boiling it until the surface is covered with clearish bubbles1 try a little upon a cover1 if it sets1 fill the jars as before4 #hdg4 ,raspberry ,jam4--,pick twelve pounds of raspberries1 and pass them through a fine sieve to extract the seeds1 boil as many pounds of sugar as you have pounds of fruit to the sixth degree 7,no4 #hca71 when add the pulp of the fruit1 keep stirring over the fire1 reducing it until you can just see the bottom of the pan1 take it from the fire1 and put it into jars as before4 #hdh4 ,jelly of ,apple4--,cut six dozen of sound rennet apples in quarters1 take out all the pips1 put them into a sugar-pan1 just cover them with cold water1 and place over the fire1 let boil until the apples become quite pulpy1 when drain them upon a sieve1 catching the liquor in a basin1 which afterwards pass through a new and very clean jelly-bag2 to every pint of liquor have one pound of sugar1 which boil to the sixth degree as directed 7#hca72 when1 whilst hot1 mix in the liquor from the apple with a very clean skimmer2 to prevent it boiling over keep it skimmed1 lift the skimmer occasionally from the pan1 and when the jelly falls from it in thin sheets1 take it up and fill the pots as before2 the smaller pots are the best adapted for jellies4 #hdi4 ,jelly of ,quince4--,proceed exactly as directed in the last1 but using quinces instead of apples4 #hej4 ,sweetmeat of ,currant ,jelly4--,put half a sieve of fine red currants in a large stewpan1 with a gallon of white currants and a gallon of raspberries1 add a quart of water1 place over the fire1 keep stirring1 to prevent them sticking to the bottom1 and let boil about ten minutes1 pour them into a sieve to drain1 catching the juice in a basin and draining the currants quite dry1 pass the juice whilst hot through a clean jelly-bag1 have a pound of sugar to every pint of juice1 and proceed precisely as directed for apple jelly4 ,should you have time to pick the currants from the stalks previous to boiling1 you would lose that bitter flavor1 and have less difficulty in making your jelly clear4 #hea4 ,currant ,jelly is made precisely as in the last1 omitting the raspberries1 the difference being in the use2 the last being adapted for the garnishing of pastry1 and this to use for sauces1 or to serve with hares1 venison1 or any other meat1 where required4 ,a more simple method of making currant jelly is to rub the fruit through a sieve1 and afterwards squeeze it through a fine linen cloth1 put it into a preserving-pan with1 to every pint of juice1 three quarters of a pound of white sugar2 place over a sharp fire1 stirring occasionally with a skimmer1 keeping it well skimmed2 it is done when dropping in sheets as before from the skimmer4 ,for my own part1 ,i prefer this last simple method1 being quicker done1 and retaining more of the full freshness of the fruit4 ,it is not my intention to give a description of the various methods of preserving fruits1 which belongs to the confectionery department2 that ,i shall do in the ,letters from the ,farm2 ,i have1 however1 given the few foregoing receipts1 they being required for reference from various parts of this work1 and being all that are required for the garnishing of dishes for the second course2 various other fruits may1 however1 be made into marmalades and jellies by following those few simple directions4 ,,salads ,,of ,,various ,,fruits4 ,you will perceive1 my dear ,eloise1 that there is no end to the variation of dishing fruits for desserts2 the following being more simple than any1 and within the reach of almost every individual4 #heb4 ,salad of ,oranges4--,select four good oranges1 the thinnest rind ones are preferable2 cut them crosswise into slices double the thickness of a crown-piece1 dress them round upon your dish1 one piece resting half-way upon the other2 shake one ounce of sifted sugar over1 pour over a good tablespoonful of brandy1 and it is ready2 to serve it out1 put two pieces upon the plate of each guest1 with a spoonful of the syrup4 ,slices of red ,malta oranges1 dressed alternately with the other1 has a pleasing effect4 ,any kind of liquor may be used1 as also might whiskey1 rum1 or that white cream or blue devil commonly called g----2 dear me1 ,i quite forget the name4 #hec4 ,salad of ,strawberries4--,pick the stalks from a pottle of very fine strawberries1 which put into a basin with half a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon1 two glasses of brandy1 and an ounce of sifted sugar1 toss them lightly over1 and dress them in pyramid upon your dish1 pouring the syrup over2 these should only be dressed a few minutes before serving2 the brandy might be omitted4 ,if handy1 a glass of maraschino1 substituted for brandy1 makes them delicious4 #hed4 ,salad of ,peaches4--,procure four ripe peaches1 which peel and cut into quarters2 put them into a basin with two ounces of sugar and a glass of sherry1 toss them lightly over1 dress upon your dish and serve4 ,apricots1 greengages1 and other plums are dressed in salads in the same manner1 leaving their skins on4 #hee4 ,salad of ,currants and ,raspberries4--,put an equal quantity of each1 making rather more than a pint1 into a basin1 with two ounces of powdered sugar-candy1 and a little powdered cinnamon1 toss them over lightly1 and they are ready to serve4 #hef4 ,pine ,apples4--,i have tried several experiments with the ,west ,indian pine-apples1 many of which being rather stale when they arrive here1 would make an unsightly appearance whole upon the table1 but made into a compote or salad1 they are really excellent1 having also the advantage of being very cheap4 ,for a compote1 peel one rather thickly1 to leave no black spots upon it1 make a syrup with half a pound of sugar1 as directed 7,no4 #hca71 cut your pine-apple into round slices a quarter of an inch in thickness1 which put into the syrup1 boiling them ten minutes2 take them out with a colander-spoon1 reduce the syrup until thickish1 and pour it over the pine-apple2 when cold it is ready to serve4 ,for a salad1 peel and cut a pine-apple into small square dice1 which put into a basin with two ounces of sugar-candy 7powdered7 and a glass of noyeau1 toss all well together and serve4 ,for marmalade1 pair and cut into small pieces several small pine-apples1 and to every quart thus cut up add one pound of fine sugar1 boil for half an hour1 and put in a pot4 #heg4 ,cake of ,savoy in mould4--,have ready a large high mould lightly buttered 7with a soft brush1 and clarified butter71 turn the mould up to drain1 and when the butter is quite set throw some finely sifted sugar into it2 move the mould round until the sugar has adhered to every part1 after which turn out the superfluous sugar1 tie a band of buttered paper round at the top1 and place it in a cool place until the mixture is ready4 ,place the yolks of fourteen eggs in a basin1 with one pound of sugar 7upon which you have rubbed the rind of two lemons previous to pounding71 beat well together with a wooden spoon until nearly white1 then whip the whites of the eggs very stiff1 add them to the yolks and sugar1 with six ounces of flour and six ounces of potato-flour1 mix the whole lightly but well together1 and fill the mould rather more than three parts full1 place it in a very moderate oven one hour1 keeping the oven-door shut2 then try when done as directed in the last1 if done take off the paper and turn it out upon a sieve until quite cold4 ,the above mixture being more delicate than the last1 would not do so well for removes1 but may be used for that purpose by being made three or four days before it is required4 #heh4 ,savoy ,cakes1 or ,ladies' ,fingers4--,have the weight of nine eggs of sugar in a bowl1 which put into a bain-marie of hot water1 weigh the same weight of flour1 which sift through a wire sieve upon paper1 break the eggs into a bowl1 and proceed as directed for sponge-cake2 then with a paper funnel or bag1 with a thin pipe made for that purpose1 lay it out upon papers into biscuits three inches in length and the thickness of your little finger1 sift sugar over1 shaking off all that does not adhere to them2 place them upon baking-sheets1 and bake in rather a warm oven of a brownish-yellow color1 when done and cold1 detach them from the paper by wetting it at the back1 place them a short time to dry1 and they are ready for use for charlotte russe1 or wherever directed4 #hei4 ,sponge ,cake4--,put one pound of powdered sugar in a good-sized bowl1 which stand in a bain-marie of hot water2 sift one pound of flour upon a sheet of paper1 then break twelve eggs into the bowl with the sugar1 which whisk rather quickly until they become a little warm and rather thickish1 then take the bowl from the bain-marie1 and continue whisking until nearly or quite cold2 then add the chopped rind of a lemon and the flour1 which mix lightly with a wooden spoon2 have ready your mould or baking-dish lightly buttered1 into which you have put a little flour1 knocking out all that does not adhere to the butter1 pour in the mixture and place it one hour in a moderate oven1 it may require longer or not so long1 but that will depend entirely upon the compass you have it in2 if done it will feel firm to the touch1 but the surest method is to run a thin wooden skewer into the centre1 if it comes out clean the cake is done1 but if not some of the mixture would adhere to it2 care should be taken not to disturb it until quite set1 or it would sink in the centre1 and never properly bake2 when done turn it out upon a sieve to cool4 ,serve where indicated4 #hfj4 ,small ,sponge ,cakes4--,put six whole eggs into an earthen pan with half a pound of sugar1 upon which you have previously rubbed the rind of a lemon1 stand the pan in very hot water1 keeping its contents well mixed until becoming rather warm1 when take it from the water1 continuing to whisk until quite cold and thickish1 when stir in gently half a pound of sifted flour2 have ready buttered1 and dusted with sugar1 about a dozen small sponge-cake tins1 put a tablespoonful of the mixture into each1 shake sugar over1 and bake them in a moderate oven4 #hfa4 ,pound ,cakes4--,put one pound of butter into an earthen pan with a pound of powdered sugar1 and a little grated nutmeg1 beat them well together with the hand until forming a smooth lightish cream1 when add by degrees eight eggs1 beating it ten minutes after1 when add a pound and a quarter of sifted flour1 stir it in lightly1 and put the mixture into hoops to bake4 #hfb4 ,queen's ,cakes4--,weigh of butter the weight of six eggs1 and nine of powdered sugar1 which put together in an earthen pan1 heat well with the hand until forming a smooth cream1 when add by degrees nine eggs1 and when well beat1 stir in the weight of nine eggs of flour and half a pound of currants2 have ready buttered about a dozen little round cake pans1 fill each one rather better than three parts full with the mixture1 shake sugar over1 and bake them in a moderate oven4 ,if no cake pans1 drop the mixture upon paper in pieces half the size of a walnut1 and an inch and a half apart1 shake sugar over1 bake in a warm oven1 and1 when done1 remove them from the papers4 #hfc4 ,almond ,cakes4--,procure one pound of ground almonds1 to which add two pounds of powdered sugar1 mixing the whole with the whites of nine eggs1 beating the mixture well with a wooden spoon for about ten minutes1 lay them out upon wafer paper of an oval shape with a tablespoon1 put three or four strips of almonds upon the top of each1 and bake them in a slow oven2 when done1 break away all the wafer paper but that which adheres to the bottom of the paper1 and1 when cold1 they are ready for use4 #hfd4 ,cocoa-,nut ,biscuits4--,scrape four cocoa nuts1 to which add the same weight of powdered sugar1 mix with whites of eggs1 beating with a wooden spoon until forming a softish but thick paste2 lay the mixture out upon wafer-paper in small drops1 baking them as directed in the last4 #hfe4 ,moss ,biscuits4--,weigh half a pound of flour1 to which add an ounce and a half of butter and five ounces of sugar1 rub them well together and mix with one whole and one white of egg and a teaspoonful of milk2 then add two ounces of ground almonds1 which rub well into the paste2 afterwards rub the whole through a gauze wire sieve1 taking it off in small pieces1 which lay upon a lightly-buttered baking-sheet1 and bake them in a moderate oven4 #hff4 ,rout ,cakes4--,procure one pound of ground almonds1 to which add one pound of powdered sugar1 mixing them together with yolks of eggs until forming a stiffish but flexible paste1 when form it into small biscuits of the shapes of coronets1 bunches of filberts1 birds' nests1 or any other shapes your fancy may dictate2 let them remain five or six hours1 or all night1 upon the baking-sheet1 and bake them in a warm oven4 #hfg4 ,rout ,biscuits4--,boil a pound and a quarter of lump sugar1 upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon1 in half a pint of milk2 when cold1 rub half a pound of butter with two pounds of flour1 make a hole in the centre1 pour in the milk with as much carbonate of soda as would lie upon a sixpence1 and a couple of eggs1 mix the whole into a smooth paste1 lay it out upon your baking-sheet in whatever flat shapes you please1 and bake them in a very warm oven4 ,the proper way to shape these biscuits is by wooden blocks having leaves1 pine-apples1 and other devices carved upon them4 #hfh4 ,cream ,biscuits4--,rub one pound of fresh butter into one pound of flour1 make a hole in the centre1 into which put half a pound of powdered sugar upon which the rind of a lemon was rubbed previously to pounding1 and three whole eggs1 mix the eggs well with the sugar1 and then mix all together1 forming a flexible paste2 cut it into round pieces each nearly as large as a walnut1 stamp them flat with a butter-stamp of the size of a crown-piece1 and bake them in a slack oven4 #hfi4 ,shrewsbury ,cakes4--,weigh one pound of flour1 into which rub half a pound of butter and six ounces of flour1 make a hole in the centre1 into which break a couple of eggs1 and add sufficient milk to form a flexible paste1 which roll out to the thickness of a penny-piece1 and cut it into small cakes with a round cutter2 bake them in a moderate oven4 ,ginger ,cakes are made precisely as the above1 but adding half an ounce of ground ginger before mixing2 and ,cinnamon ,cakes1 by rubbing in an ounce and a half of ground cinnamon after the paste is mixed4 #hgj4 ,macaroons4--,blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds1 dry them well in your screen1 then put them into a mortar with a pound and a half of lump sugar1 pound well together1 and pass the whole through a wire sieve2 put it again into a mortar1 with the whites of two eggs1 mix well together with the pestle1 then add the white of another egg1 proceeding thus until you have used the whites of about eight eggs and made a softish paste1 when lay them out at equal distances1 apart upon wafer-paper1 in pieces nearly the size of walnuts1 place some strips of almonds upon the top1 sift sugar over1 and bake in a slow oven of a yellowish brown color2 they are done when set quite firm through4 #hga4 ,ratafias4--,ratafias are made similar to the above1 but deducting two ounces of sweet1 and adding two ounces of bitter almonds2 they are laid out in much smaller cakes upon common paper1 and baked in a much warmer oven2 when cold1 they may be taken off the paper with the greatest ease4 ,these cakes are very serviceable in making a great many second-course dishes4 #hgb4 ,italian ,drops4--,have a mixture similar to the above1 merely a liqueur glassful of best noyeau1 lay it in round drops upon paper1 and bake in a hot oven without sifting any sugar over2 when taken from the papers1 dry them a little in the screen1 and they are ready to serve4 ,the bottoms may be spread over with apricot marmalade1 and two stuck together just previous to being served1 if approved of4 #hgc4 ,st4 ,james's ,cake4--,put one pound of very fresh butter in a good-sized kitchen basin1 and with the right hand work it up well till it forms quite a white cream2 then add one pound powdered sugar1 mix well1 add ten eggs by degrees2 put to dry a pound and a quarter of flour1 which mix as lightly as possible with it2 blanch and cut in slices two ounces of pistachios1 two ditto of green preserved angelica1 add two liqueur glasses of noyeau1 two drops of essence of vanilla2 whip a gill and a half of cream till very thick1 mix lightly with a wooden spoon4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,xvii ,,the ,,dinner-,,table4 ,,my ,,dear ,,eloise1--,i thank you for your kind compliment1 but ,i have always been of opinion that the arrangements and serving of a dinner-table1 have as much to do with the happiness and pleasure of a party as the viands which are placed upon it2 this ,i had a practical proof of last week4 ,mr4 ,b4 and myself were invited to dine with ,mr4 ,d41 a city friend1 at ,balham ,hill2 ,i had before met ,mrs4 ,d4 at an evening party1 at his partner's1 at ,hackney1 and knew little of her4 ,dinner was served pretty punctually1 only half an hour after time4 ,on my entrance in the room1 my first glance at the table showed me that there was a want of savoir-faire in its management3 the plate1 very abundant and splendid1 was of so yellow a cast that it looked as if it were plated1 and the cut glass was exceedingly dim4 ,my first surprise was that there were no napkins1 the next the soup plates were quite cold1 which ,i have found often the case in other houses2 after being served with fish1 and waiting until it was cold for the sauce to eat with it1 ,i was rather sceptical how the rest of the dinner would progress4 ,after the first1 the second course made its appearance1 which was heavy and too abundant2 the plain things were well done1 but there was only one servant in the room for the whole party of fourteen1 and from the strict formality of the table1 it would have been a sacrilege to have handed your plate for any vegetables1 or anything else you might require4 ,there were four saltcellars1 certainly very massive silver ones1 at each corner of the table1 and a beautiful cruet-frame in the centre2 the hot dishes of this course1 like the previous one1 became cold and tasteless before being eaten1 and during the time the servant was serving the champagne1 all the plates were empty2 in fact it was a good dinner spoilt4 ,the wine drank with less got than usual1 and the long pauses between the courses made the formality appear still greater than it really was1 and made you wish for the time to arrive for the cloth to be removed1 which was not done1 only the slips1 a most awkward undertaking for one servant1 and should never be practised unless having at least two4 ,about half an hour after the cloth was removed1 and just as the conversation was being thawed from the freezing it received at the dinner-table1 ,mrs4 ,d4 and the ladies withdrew1 and for an hour and a half we had to bear the insipid conversation of the drawing-room1 the hissing urn on the tea-table bearing a prominent part4 ,several messages were sent from time to time to the dining-room that coffee was ready2 and when at last the gentlemen came1 two had had quite wine enough1 which caused them to receive sundry angry looks from their wives who were present1 and who were glad to get them into their carriages which were waiting1 and right glad indeed was ,i when ours was announced4 ,this all happened1 my dear ,eloise1 not from meanness2 for if money could have purchased it nothing would have been wanting1 but solely from want of management2 and every one should think before they invite their friends to partake of their hospitality1 if they know how to entertain them4 ,money of course will provide delicacies of all kinds1 but to know how to dispose of those delicacies to the best advantage1 that your friends may appreciate them1 is what is sadly wanting in more than one house ,i visit4 ,a very excellent remark is made in ,punch by ,mr4 ,brown1 in his ,letters to a ,young ,man about ,town1 on the subject of great and little dinners4 ,he says3 ,properly considered the quality of the dinner is twice blest2 it blesses him that gives1 and him that takes2 a dinner with friendliness is the best of all friendly meetings--a pompous entertainment1 where no love is1 is the least satisfactory4 ,our dinner on which you compliment me so much1 we sat down twelve1 for although the room and table would accommodate more1 yet as my service of plate is for that number1 and the arrangements of the kitchen are limited1 that is the number ,i prefer1 besides beyond which the conversation becomes partial1 which is the bane of a dinner-table4 ,you know we have no regular man-servant1 but for these occasions ,i hire two1 and place one on each side the table1 and they each have their own side table with a change of everything that is required4 ,the first thing to be looked to is the lights3 these ought to be so placed as not to intercept the view of any person at the table1 but at the same time they ought to be enough to show everything off to advantage2 ,i prefer removing some of the lights from the table to the sideboard when the cloth is removed1 as the light after dinner ought to be more subdued4 ,in laying the cloth we place it over the baize1 and remove it after dinner1 as ,mr4 ,b4 says he likes to see the mahogany1 for when he asks a city friend to come and put his feet under his mahogany1 it looks rather foolish if he never sees it4 ,i have1 as you know1 my table rather wide1 that is1 six feet1 and ,i generally place a vase of flowers in the centre1 as ,i think their freshness and odor add greatly to the appearance of the table1 and admit a flanc on each side4 ,we prefer the old ,english plan of taking the top and bottom of the table1 instead of ,i and ,mr4 ,b4 being together at the side4 ,the cloth being laid with its proper side uppermost1 ,i order a napkin1 two knives1 two prongs1 two tablespoons1 and two wine-glasses to be placed to each person1 a saltcellar between every other1 that being a condiment which every one uses1 though often wrongly2 the cruet-frames and other requisites are kept on the sideboards4 ,i then have the fish and soup served together1 the potatoes and sauce on the sideboard2 ,i serving the soup1 and ,mr4 ,b4 the fish1 and often a little dish of fried fish1 such as smelts1 c41 to remove the soups4 ,this gives me an opportunity of seeing that my guests are properly attended to1 and also leisure of taking wine with any gentleman who challenges me4 ,during the time this course has been progressing1 the cook has had time to dish up the removes nice and hot1 and get all up close to the door1 as ,i like as little time as possible to intervene in changing the dishes2 and these consist generally of variously dressed chickens1 which ,i have before me1 as this gives an opportunity for the gentleman on my right to display his gallantry2 but1 thanks to ,soyer's separator1 this is an easy task4 ,this affords me still further leisure to pay attention to my guests4 ,mr4 ,b41 who is a capital carver1 either has a saddle or a haunch of mutton1 or a quarter of lamb before him1 the rest of the dishes consisting of a tongue and entres4 ,i select those most easy to carve1 and also easy for the cook to prepare4 ,this is a period of dinner where a great deal depends upon the attendants2 they should know almost by the look what this lady or that gentleman require1 and what kind of vegetables to hand them2 a first-rate butler should be able to judge by the physiognomy to whom he should offer mint sauce with the lamb1 and who prefers cayenne2 on their attention and hot plates1 depends the success of the substantial part of the dinner4 ,as soon as ,i see that all are served1 and words are few in consequence of the organ which utters them being employed in another way1 ,i give a look to the two servants1 which they understand1 and immediately two reports are heard1--they are from two bottles of champagne1 opened at the same time by the attendants1 who have each a salver with six glasses on it2 this takes but a short time to serve1 and prepares the palate for the entres1 which generally get praised2 indeed my cook would think something was wrong if two of the dishes did not go down empty4 ,by having the champagne thus1 ,i find it goes much further than if only one bottle was opened at the time1 there being sufficient left in the bottles for a gentleman to challenge a lady to take champagne with him4 ,if ,i have game ,i remove the top and bottom dishes with them1 and make the sweets a separate course1 taking care to have cold plates for the jelly1 and having the liquors handed round when the sweets are on the table2 one cheese ,i place opposite ,mr4 ,b41 and macaroni opposite myself4 ,objections have been made to the use of napkins1 as being of no service at an ,english dinner-table1 and only a copy of the dirty manners of our neighbors4 ,if we are more cleanly at the table than they are 7which ,i question71 there is no reason why we should not use that which would make us still more so2 but ,mr4 ,b4 is so well pleased with the rose water which he has at the court dinners of his company1 that he made me a present of those two beautiful dishes which you admired so much4 ,the outside compartment holds rose-water1 and the inner one a little eau-de-cologne2 these are placed on salvers1 and pass down each side of the table1 the corner of each napkin being dipped into it4 ,they seem to be absolutely required1 and ,i must say they form a delightful adjunct to the dinner-table4 ,he#i has also introduced at our table1 but only at ,christmas1 another city custom1 which the gentlemen seem very much to like1--,i cannot say so for the ladies2 it is what he calls a loving cup2 he has it placed before him when the cheese is put on2 and after filling the glass of the lady on each side of him1 he rises and drinks to their health and the rest of the company1 and then passes it to the gentleman on the left1 who1 in like manner1 fills the glass of the lady on his left1 rises1 drinks to her health and the company1 and thus it goes round the table4 ,your husband1 my dear ,eloise1 thought that the contents were exceedingly good1 or1 as he expressed it1 nectar fit for the gods1 and would like to have the receipt1--here it is as ,mr4 ,b4 prepares it3--,the cup holds two quarts2 he places in it half a teacupful of capillaire2 if he has none1 he uses dissolved lump sugar1 with a few drops of orange-flower water in it1 one pint of brown sherry1 one bottle of good ,edinburgh ale1 mixing these together1 and a minute before placing on the table1 adding one bottle of soda water1 stirring it well up till it froths2 he then grates some nutmeg on the froth1 and places a piece of toast in it1 and sends it to the table with a napkin through the handle of the cup4 ,i must say1 since we have had this1 it has produced some most interesting conversation as regarded the antiquity of the custom1 c4 ,in addition1 ,mr4 ,b4 bought the cup at a sale1 and it is stated to have been drunk out of by ,henry the ,eighth3 this of itself is a subject of conversation1 and draws out the talents and conversational powers of our guests1 and one in which ladies can join1 as there is hardly one of our sex who has not read ,miss ,strickland's ,queens of ,england4 ,you have often made the remark1 that the time always appears short whilst we are at table2 this is1 no doubt1 from the animated conversation which is kept up1 for that is the real motive of meeting together1 to enjoy the conversation of one another1 to gain and impart information1 and amuse ourselves with the wit and talent of those around us1 and not for the sake of eating and drinking2 yet without the assistance of both of these1 the most sparkling wit would be as heavy as a bad souffl1 and the brightest talent as dull as my looking-glass on a foggy day4 ,in order to prolong the time1 and to enjoy the gentlemen's society as much as possible1 ,i do not have the dessert placed on the table until ten or twenty minutes after the cloth is removed2 this also gives an opportunity for my guests to admire the beautiful ,sevres dessert plates1 containing views of the ,french chateaux2 this of course gives a subject for conversation to those who have visited them4 ,in the dessert ,i generally introduce some new importation1 such as bananas1 sugar-cane1 ,american lady apples1 prickly pears1 c42 these also give a subject for the gentlemen to talk about when the ladies have left1 as free trade1 colonial policy1 c4 ,about half an hour after the dessert is on the table1 and when ,i see that the conversation is becoming less general1 ,i retire to the drawing-room2 the servants then remove the dirty glass and plates1 and ,mr4 ,b4 introduces some of his choice claret or ,burgundy in ice coolers4 ,you know1 my dear ,eloise1 ,i allow very little more than half an hour for us to talk about the last new fashions1 or of ,mrs4 ,a4 and ,b4's cap1 and the young ones about their partners at the last ball1 and other nothings1 when the tea and coffee are brought up on salvers2 it is always made down stairs1 and sent up in cups to the drawing-room1 although ,mr4 ,b4 had a very handsome silver service presented to him just after we were married1 for serving as an honorary secretary to some grand masonic festival1 yet the milk ewer and sugar basin are all ,i allow in the room4 ,this does away with the formality of the tea-table and the hissing of the tea-urn2 it allows some young gentlemen with a ,byron collar and a little down under his chin to turn over the pages of a music-book for a young lady at the piano1 and make his coffee at the same time2 it allows my dear mamma and ,mr4 ,p4 to make up their whist table1 and have their tea whilst playing2 or1 if we make up a quadrille1 to have a few turns of a waltz or polka1 the coffee is serving during the time2 whilst this is going on the hand of the clock advances1 and half-past ten soon arrives1 and with it ,mrs4 ,c4's fly2 ,dr4 ,d4's brougham is at the door2 the party breaks up1 delighted with the evening they have passed in each other's society3 and this you see done with trifling management4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,xviii ,,dearest ,,eloise1--,you are right in your remark1 that there is a great difference as to the manner and way in which evening parties or soires are given in different houses1 although being frequented by the same party or circle4 ,i must say ,i have my own ideas on this subject1 and ,i think the ,french understand this matter much better than we do1 and that we could not do better than imitate them4 ,we ,english are a plodding1 matter-of-fact people1 and carry our notions into every concern in life3 our dinners and entertainments are given with an ulterior object1 and with a view of what may be gained from it1 even from the charitable dinner at the ,london ,tavern to the man who asks another to partake of a pint of beer with him at a public-house4 ,it is this1 together with ostentation1 which is the bane of society1 by bringing together people of incongruity of ideas1 destroying that free exchange of thought which constitutes the true pleasure of social runions2 we are also naturally of a reserved and cautious disposition3 hence the reason why the pleasures of a soire are not felt until after supper4 ,of these ,i am a great advocate1 though not to the extravagant and outr manner many are given in the present day4 ,of course in the way most ladies are now educated1 they would rather be attending to the adornment of their persons for the occasion than to the entertainment and amusement of their guests4 ,those who can afford it1 are quite right to patronize a first-rate confectioner1 and thus save themselves the trouble2 but how many that cannot afford it do the same thing1 and make a bargain for a bad supper with one1 by which he gains little1 and the guests great disgust1 instead of doing it at home and ordering a few good things which would look and eat well4 ,there are a variety of drinks which could be made at a moderate expense1 good and wholesome1 and infinitely better than bad ,marsala1 which you are often obliged to partake of4 ,i will enclose you a few receipts for them1 and some bills of fare for suppers for small soires4 ,,beverages ,,for ,,evening ,,parties4 #hgd4 ,lemonade4--,peel six lemons free from pith1 cut them up in small pieces1 and put them with two cloves in a bottle1 with half a pint of hot water1 and place it in a bain-marie1 or stewpan1 with boiling water1 and let it stand by the side of the fire for one or two hours1 taking care it does not boil2 remove it and let it remain until cold2 then take half a pint of lemon-juice1 half a pint of capillaire--if none1 use sugar1 that will make the same quantity of syrup--to which add a few drops of orange-flower water2 add the infusion of the rind1 stir well together1 and add two quarts of cold water4 ,the acidity of some lemons is greater than others1 in which case1 and also if using lime-juice1 more capillaire must be used4 #hge4 ,cold ,punch4--,proceed as above for lemonade1 but add one pint of capillaire to half a pint of lemon-juice1 one pint of pale brandy1 one pint of pale rum1 one tablespoonful of arrack1 and five quarts of cold water2 let it remain some time before it is decantered4 #hgf4 ,port ,wine ,negus4--,take one quart of new port wine1 of a fruity character1 one tablespoonful of spirit of cloves1 one teacupful of sugar1 one lemon sliced1 half a nutmeg grated1 pour over these two quarts of boiling water4 #hgg4 ,white ,wine ,fillip4--,take one bottle of sherry or ,madeira1 or champagne1 or any other good white wine1 a gill of noyeau or maraschino1 the juice of half a lemon1 add to it one quart of calf's foot jelly well sweetened and boiling hot1 and serve immediately4 #hgh4 ,sandwiches4--,in making a large quantity1 a stale quartern loaf should be taken and trimmed free from all crust1 and cut into slices the eighth of an inch in thickness1 slightly buttered1 and then thin slices of meat1 nicely trimmed1 may be laid on and covered with another slice of bread1 and then cut into eight parts2 should they be but some time before they are wanted1 they ought to be put one over the other1 as they thus keep moist1--a little mustard and salt may be added to the meat1 if preferred4 ,some thin slices of gherkin may be added to the meat1 and the same plan can be adopted with pickled fish1 brawn or sausages4 ,the following varies the common mode of making sandwiches3 ,take a small quantity of very fresh cream cheese1 put it into a basin or a marble mortar1 add some salt1 pepper1 and a little mustard1 beat it well up until it is of the same consistence as butter2 if too hard add a little of the latter1 and use it as butter on the bread1 with slices of meat between4 ,or make it into salad sandwiches3--cover the bread as before1 and have ready some mustard and cress and water-cresses well washed and dried1 put into a bowl with mayonnaise sauce1 and when ready to serve place it neatly between the bread4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,xix ---- ,farm1 ,essex1 ,july --1 #ahdi4 ,,my ,,dear ,,eloise1--,you are no doubt surprised at receiving this from the above address1 but you remember when you last called ,i thought my little ,emily was unwell1 the next day she seemed worse1 ,i then had the ,dr4--1 who ordered her out of town1 and a friend of ,mr4 ,b4's being present recommended this place2 so ,emily and ,i have now been a week here1 and she has already improved by the change of air2 it has also done me good1 and ,i am greatly amused with the various occupations going on in the farm1 which is an old-fashioned one1 tenanted by a good old ,english farmer1 his wife1 and son2 the latter is gone to see a brother settled in ,liverpool4 ,the cleanliness and regularity of the house are quite charming2 but what delights me more than all is the dairy--such delicious cream and butter that it makes me quite envy people living in the country6 ,i must describe the pretty dairy to you3 it is situated at the back of the house1 and sheltered by it from the mid-day and afternoon's sun1 and from the morning's sun by a plantation1 so that it is deliciously cool2 it is about twelve feet long by ten wide1 paved with flat stones1 and the walls of plaster1 like stone1 a door at one end with a window above and a window high up at the other end1 and two windows at the side2 these have thin wire shutters and glazed sashes on hinges2 the roof is of slate1 with about two feet thickness of thatch over it2 there are also several little openings for the admission of air1 about one inch from the floor4 ,a dresser1 two feet wide1 being two inches from the wall1 is on both sides1 and above these are two shelves of nine inches wide1 also two inches from the wall1 these are supported on iron brackets4 ,at the end1 and opposite the door1 is the churn1 which is turned by a wheel outside1 with apparatus for a donkey or mule to work it1 if required4 ,all the utensils are of sycamore wood and perfectly clean1 never used twice without washing in hot water with soda put in it1 and made perfectly dry4 ,there are as many ways of making butter as there are counties in ,great ,britain4 ,i will now tell you how it is practised here4 ,the cows are milked at a regular hour1 not later than five1 the milk taken as soon as possible into the dairy1 and placed in the dishes about six quarts in each2 is thus left for twenty-four hours2 then it is skimmed1 and the cream from each is placed in a deep bowl or pan1 where it remains until the next day1 when it is churned4 ,friday's milk is made into cheese2 when churned it is gathered well together from the milk and laid in a clean bowl1 with hard spring water in it1 and worked to and fro until it is brought to a firm consistence2 it is then laid out thin1 and then what is called here a scotcher is taken--that is1 a kind of five-pronged fork of wood1 only each prong is as sharp as a knife1 and drawn through every part of it2 then whatever salt is required is added1 and it is then formed into pats1 or done any way they like4 ,if intended as corned or salt butter1 they then add one pound of fine salt to every fourteen pounds of butter2 in some places the coarsest grained salt is used2 in others two pounds of salt1 one pound of saltpetre1 and one pound of white sugar mixed together1 one fourth of this for every fourteen pounds4 ,if intended for keeping1 it is put into stone crocks until it is wanted4 ,the way in which they make the cheese here is as follows3 all ,friday's milk is taken1 that of the morning is kept until the afternoon1 and mixed with it2 then two spoonfuls of rennet to every twelve quarts of milk are put to it and well mixed1 it is then left all night4 ,very early the next morning the curd is removed with a strainer and equally broken into the cheese vat or mote until it is about one inch above the brim1 a cheese cloth or strainer having previously been put at the bottom of the vat1 and large enough to allow for part of it to be turned over the top when the vat is filled2 when thus filled it is taken to the press1 and left for two hours with a clean cloth under it2 it is then turned over on the cloth1 and pressed again2 and the same process is continued three or four hours out of the twenty-four4 ,it is then removed and placed on the shelf1 and turned regularly every day for the first two months2 after that occasionally4 ,i intend to try my hand at it shortly1 and see what ,i can make of it4 ,i find that the butter which is made here and potted for winter use is not intended to be sold as salt1 but as fresh1 and the dairy-maid has just told me how it is done4 ,for every quart of new milk from the cow1 she takes one pound of potted butter1 which has been treated thus the day previous3 into two quarts of cold water two tablespoonfuls of vinegar are mixed1 and the potted butter well broken and kneaded in it1 and then taken out1 and served the same in fresh water1 in which it is left until the next morning1 and then mixed with the milk1 put into the churn and churned again1 and then treated in the usual way as butter2 by this plan there is a large quantity of sweet milk always in the farm1 as it is exceedingly good when strained4 ,the following is the way they make the clouted cream3-- #hgi4 ,clouted ,cream4--,strain the milk as soon as it comes from the cow into wide pans1 holding about six quarts each1 so as to be about three inches deep1 and let it remain for twenty-four hours2 then gently place the pan upon a hot plate or slow charcoal fire1 which must heat it very gently1 for if it boils it is spoilt2 as soon as the cream forms a ring in the middle1 remove a little with the finger1 and if there are a few bubbles rise in the place where you do so1 it is done1 which will be in half to three quarters of an hour2 remove it from the fire1 and let it remain twenty-four hours2 then skim it1 and throw a little sugar on the top4 ,,conversation ,,on ,,household ,,affairs4 ,mrs4 ,r4 ,after all the receipts and information which you have given me1 there is one which you have not touched upon yet1 which1 perhaps1 is of more importance than all the rest1 it is the management of servants4 ,mrs4 ,b4 ,you are right1 my dear1 it is of great importance1 and more so than many of us imagine1 as for myself ,i do not consider that ,i am a good manager1 being perhaps of too forgiving a disposition2 but there is one good quality which ,i possess which makes up for the want of others1 that is exactitude2 by enforcing this it causes all to know their place1 and perform their work4 ,mrs4 ,r4 ,but what surprises me is to see everything so well done and clean with so few servants2 you seem to have but two maid servants1 the cook1 house-maid1 and coachman4 ,mrs4 ,b4 ,yes1 that is all1 and ,i generally find that they are enough for the work1 unless ,i have a dinner party1 and then of course1 as you know1 ,i have extra men2 but ,i will tell you how ,i pass the day1 and then you will be able to judge4 ,we are what are called early risers1 that is1 ,mr4 ,b4 is obliged to leave home every week day at twenty minutes past nine2 our breakfast is on the table at half-past eight2 the breakfast parlor having previously been got ready1 as the servants rise at seven4 ,we are1 when we have no visitors1 our two selves1 the three children1 and the governess4 ,the children1 in summer time1 have had a walk before breakfast1 but before leaving their room they uncover their beds1 and if fine open the windows1 if a wet morning about two inches of the top sash is pulled down4 ,the servants get their breakfast at the same time as we do1 as we require hardly any or no waiting upon1 everything being ready on the table4 ,in a former letter ,i told you what was our breakfast some years since when in business1 now we have placed on the table some brown bread1 rolls and dry toast2 the butter is in a glass butter-dish1 and the eggs are brought up when we have sat down to table4 ,the urn is placed on the table1 as ,i make my own tea and coffee2 the cocoa is made down stairs4 ,you will perhaps be surprised when ,i say that ,i make the coffee for breakfast myself1 but ,i have done so for some little time past1 having found that when made in the kitchen it never came up twice alike1 but now we always have it delicious4 ,i lately purchased a coffee-pot which enables me to do it in the very best manner1 with no more trouble than ,i have in making the tea4 ,i mentioned it in my receipts for coffee1 and said it was invented by a ,mr4 ,s41 which letter was inserted by mistake instead of ,c4 which it ought to be4 ,it is called ,carey's ,hecla4 ,it makes the very best coffee at one short operation1 and is so contrived as to produce it almost boiling hot2 in fact1 never permitting the great mistake of boiling the coffee itself at all4 ,mr4 ,b4 generally leaves home in the brougham1 which returns in time for me2 in case ,i should be going out1 he then goes in a cab or omnibus4 ,whilst we are at breakfast1 ,i generally consult ,mr4 ,b4 what he would like for dinner1 and if he is likely to invite any friend to dine with him2 the fishmonger has previously sent his list and prices of the day4 ,i then write with a pencil on a slip of paper the bill of fare for the nursery dinner1 luncheon1 should any be required1 and our dinner1 which ,i send to the cook4 ,at ten o'clock ,i go down stairs into the kitchen and larder1 when the cook gives me her report1 that is everything that is required for the next twenty-four hours' consumption1 including the servants' dinner1 which report is filed in the larder and made to tally with the week's list1 for ,i must tell you that the week's consumption of all things that will not spoil is had in on the ,saturday1 on which day the larder is properly scoured out1 and everything put again into its proper place1 there being bins for all kinds of vegetables1 c4 ,the larder is generally kept locked1 the cook and ,i only having keys1 because it is in fact a larder1 and not1 as in many houses1 full of emptiness2 this occupies about half an hour1 during which time the chambermaids have been attending to the bed-rooms and drawing-room1 c4 ,if ,i go out or not1 ,i always get my toilet finished by twelve o'clock2 ,i thus have one hour to write notes1 or see tradesmen or my dressmaker1 and ,monday mornings check and pay my tradesmen's accounts1 and to dress4 ,if ,i stop at home1 ,i amuse myself by reading1 or going to see the children in the nursery1 or sometimes go again into the kitchen and assist the cook on some new receipt or preparation1 and often have several calls2 during the course of the morning the two maids scour out alternately one or two of the rooms1 according to size1 except on ,wednesdays1 when one of them is otherwise engaged4 ,mr4 ,b4 arrives home at twenty minutes to five1 and at half-past five we dine3 the cloth is laid1 and everything prepared as if we had company2 it may be a little more trouble for the servants2 but when we do have any friends they find it less trouble2 besides it is always uncertain but what ,mr4 ,b4 may bring somebody home with him1 and it prevents slovenly habits2 the two maids1 with the exception of ,wednesdays1 are always ready to attend on us4 ,i never allow the coachman to defile our carpets with his stable shoes2 all his duties in the house are--the first thing in the morning to clean the knives and forks for the day1 for enough are kept out for that purpose1 clean the boots and shoes1 and those windows the maids cannot easily get at1 and assist in the garden if required4 ,many have made the remark to me1 that as you have a male servant why not have him wait at table4 ,i reply that the duties of the stable are incompatible with those of the table1 and if he does his duty properly he has enough to do4 ,the servants dine at one1 and have tea at quarter to five1 by which time the cook has everything ready1 all but to take it from the fire1 and the maids the dining-room ready4 ,the nursery dinner is at the same hour2 after dinner1 should we be alone1 we have the children and the governess down2 if we have company we do not see them2 they go to bed at a quarter to eight1 and we have tea and coffee at eight2 the governess comes and passes the rest of the evening with us2 eleven is our usual hour of retiring1 before which ,mr4 ,b4 likes his glass of negus1 a biscuit1 or a sandwich1 which is brought upon a tray4 ,mrs4 ,l4--,what you have described to me is all very well1 yet ,i am certain1 that if ,i go and try to do the same to-morrow1 ,i shall not succeed2 how is it that you have everything in its place1 and ,i never hear a word said to the servants8 ,mrs4 ,b4--,it is because they all know their duties1 and if they should in any way neglect them1 ,i think of the maxim1 bear and forbear1 for none of us are perfect1 and ,i take an opportunity when ,i may be alone with them to tell them quietly of their faults4 ,some mistresses will go into the kitchen and be angry with them before the other servants2 the consequence is1 that as soon as her back is turned they all begin to laugh4 ,a ridiculous incident of this kind occurred the other evening at ,mrs4 ,g4's4 ,we missed her out of the drawing-room just before tea1 and it appeared that her young boy ,fred1 followed her2 whilst we were at tea he was very communicative1 as children sometimes will be 7l'enfant terrible71 and said1 ,we have been having such fun in the kitchen4 ,on inquiry he said1 ,my mother has been down stairs scolding ,jane1 and ,i hid myself behind the door2 and when my mother had gone up1 ,betsy the cook spoke and moved her hands just like mamma2 it made us all laugh so1 it was such fun4 ,i need not tell you it was no fun for ,mrs4 ,g41 who looked rather annoyed4 ,we should ever remember1 that we have our feelings1 and should also think that others have theirs2 and ,i think it is as much the mistress's fault when anything goes wrong in the house1 as the servants'4 ,i only lose my servants when they get married1 or from ill health1 and the only thing that ,i find bad1 is1 that they quarrel amongst themselves1 but should this occur thrice with the same two1 ,i dismiss them both4 ,i am certain1 that if you teach your servants to take care of themselves1 they are certain to take care of you4 ,i continually hear ,mrs4 ,m4 complaining of changing her servants1 and that seems to be her sole occupation4 ,poor thing1 she has no children1 and nothing to occupy her mind1 and without occupation the mind becomes diseased1 and the least action throws it into fever4 ,mrs4 ,n4 complains of the extravagance of her servants2 it is her own extravagance1 or1 more properly speaking1 her want of management which causes all2 but this ,i really think1 that if everybody were more cautious in receiving and giving characters to servants other than what they are1 we should not hear the continual complaint we do1 when often assembled in the drawing-room after dinner1 when1 perhaps1 some dear old lady complains of the education given to young people of the present day1 and that1 in time1 there will be no such thing as servants4 ,to some extent ,i am of her opinion1 and consider that the education given by all classes to their children1 is a great deal more ornamental than useful4 ,i would rather see the child taught some of the accomplishments of housekeeping1 than that she should be considered as the mere ornament of the drawing-room4 ,i think it is the bounden duty of every mother1 where the income of the husband may be dependent on trade or profession1 to give her children that education which even the most adverse of circumstances may call upon them to assume4 ,look at the advertisements which appear in the public press every day6--,young girls offering themselves as governesses1 to be remunerated by their board2 whereas1 if they had been educated with a knowledge of some useful employment1 they would have made good ladies' maids or housekeepers1 or useful wives to tradesmen4 ,,bills ,,of ,,fare4 ,when ,i was first married and commencing business1 and our means were limited1 the following was our system of living3 ,sunday's ,dinner4--,roast-,beef1 ,potatoes1 ,greens1 and ,yorkshire ,pudding4 ,monday4--,hashed ,beef and ,potatoes4 ,tuesday4--,broiled ,beef and ,bones1 ,vegetables1 and ,spotted ,dick ,pudding4 ,wednesday4--,fish if cheap1 ,chops and ,vegetables4 ,thursday4--,boiled ,pork1 ,peas ,pudding1 and ,greens4 ,friday4--,peas ,soup1 ,remains of ,pork4 ,saturday4--,stewed ,steak with ,suet ,dumpling4 ,the ,sunday's dinner ,i used to vary1 one time ,beef1 another ,mutton1 another ,pork or ,veal1 and sometimes a ,baked ,sucking ,pig2 our living then1 including a good ,breakfast and ,tea1 cost us about #cbs4 per week4 ,in case we had a few friends1 we used to make an addition by having one ,fish1 ,leg of ,mutton1 ,roast ,fowls1 ,pickled ,pork1 and ,peas ,pudding1 with a ,mould ,pudding and ,fruit ,tart1 and a little dessert4 ,this was for the first two years2 our means and business then increasing1 and having the three young men to dine with us1 we were of course obliged to increase our expenditure and to alter our mode of living1 besides which ,i had accompanied ,mr4 ,b4 to ,france1 where my culinary ideas received a great improvement4 ,the following is the plan we then adopted3 ,sunday4--,pot-au-,feu1 ,fish--,haunch of ,mutton or a ,quarter of ,lamb1 or other good joint--,two ,vegetables--,pastry and a ,fruit ,pudding--,a little ,dessert4 ,monday4--,vermicelli ,soup made from the ,pot-au-,feu of the day previous--,the ,bouilli of the ,pot-au-,feu--,remains of the ,mutton--,two ,vegetables--,fruit ,tart4 ,tuesday4--,fish--,shoulder of ,veal stuffed--,roast ,pigeons1 or ,leveret1 or ,curry--,two ,vegetables--,apples with ,rice1 and light ,pastry4 ,wednesday4--,spring ,soup--,roast ,fowls1 ,remains of ,veal minced1 and ,poached ,eggs--,two ,vegetables--,rowley ,powley ,pudding4 ,thursday4--,roast-,beef--,remains of ,fowl--,two ,vegetables--,sweet ,omelette4 ,friday4--,fish--,shoulder of ,lamb--,miroton of ,beef--,two ,vegetables--,baked ,pudding4 ,saturday4--,mutton ,broth--,boiled ,neck ,mutton--,liver and ,bacon--,two ,vegetables--,currant ,pudding4 ,our parties then1 when we had them1 never consisted of more than ten4 ,we had3 ,julienne ,soup--,fish--a quarter of ,lamb--,vegetables1 ,cutlets--,vegetables1 ,bacon and ,beans--,boiled ,turkey--,pheasant--,jelly or ,cream--,pastry--,lobster ,salad--,omelette or ,souffl--,dessert1 c4 ,at present1 though the number of our establishment is not greater1 yet the style and manner of our living have changed4 ,we dine alone1 except when ,mr4 ,b4 invites somebody to dine with him1 which is most generally the case2 our daily bill of fare consists of something like the following3-- ,one ,soup or ,fish1 generally alternate--,one ,remove1 either ,joint or ,poultry--,one ,entre--,two ,vegetables--,pudding or ,tart--,a little ,dessert4 ,this may seem a great deal for two persons2 but when you remember that we almost invariably have one or two to dine with us1 and the remains are required for the breakfast1 lunch1 nursery and servants' dinners1 you will perceive that the dinner is the principal expense of the establishment1 by which means you are enabled to display more liberality to your guests1 and live in greater comfort without waste4 ,our parties at present1 to many of which you have constantly been1 and therefore know1 vary according to the season2 here are a few bills of fare of them2 the following is one for two persons3-- ,one ,soup1 say ,pure of ,artichokes--,one ,fish1 ,cod ,slices in ,oyster ,sauce--,remove with ,smelts or ,white ,bait4 ,removes4--,saddle of ,mutton--,turkey in ,celery ,sauce4 ,two ,entres4--,cutlets a la ,provenale--,sweetbreads larded in any ,white ,sauce4 ,two ,vegetables4--,greens--,kale--,potatoes on the ,sideboard4 ,,second ,,course4 ,two ,roasts4--,partridges--,wild ,ducks4 ,jelly of ,fruit--,cheesecakes--,meringue la ,crme--,vegetable--,french ,salad on the ,sideboard4 ,removes4--,ice ,pudding--,beignet ,souffl4 ,dessert of eleven dishes4 ,the following is one for a birthday party1 which generally consists of twenty persons3-- ,,first ,,course4 ,two ,soups--,two ,fish4 ,removes4--,haunch of ,mutton--,broiled ,capons l',ecarlate4 ,flancs4--,fricandeau of ,veal--,currie of ,fowl4 ,entres4--,fillets of ,beef1 sauce ,tomate--,cutlets ,soubise--,oyster ,patties1 or ,little ,vol-au-,vent2 ,croquettes of ,veal or ,fowl4#aj ,,second ,,course4 ,wild ,ducks--,guinea ,fowl larded--,charlotte ,russe--,punch ,jelly1 ,crusts of ,fruit--,flanc ,meringue--,apple with ,rice--,scolloped ,oysters--,mayonnaise of ,fowl--,sea ,kale or ,asparagus4 ,removes4--,turban of ,cond ,glace--,cheese ,souffl la ,vanille4 ,dessert of nineteen dishes4 ,the bills of fare for our small evening parties1 say thirty persons1 are as follows2 everything is cold1 although ,i know that the fashion has been progressing towards having hot removes4 ,our table on those occasions is1 as you know1 in the form of a horseshoe1 which1 in my opinion1 is the most sociable after that of a round one1 and upon the sociability of the supper depends in a great measure the success of the party4 ,in the centre1 and at the head of the table1 ,i place a large ,grouse-pie1 the same as ,nos4 #bdi1 #bhe1 of which1 by my recommendation1 everybody partakes2 ,i then on each of the wings have ,fowls1 ,lobster ,salads1 ,mayonnaises of ,fowl1 ,ham1 ,tongue1 cut in slices1 and dished over parsley1 ornamented with ,aspic ,jelly2 and on the sideboard ,i have a fine piece of ,sirloin of ,beef1 plain roasted1 or an ,aitch-,bone of ,beef1 or ,fillet of ,veal4 ,should there be no game1 ,i have a ,turkey or ,fowls en ,galantine1 instead of the ,grouse-pie1 or if game is plentiful1 ,i have less poultry1 and add roast ,pheasants--mind1 not fowls with black legs larded1 and a pheasant's tail put to them1 but real ones1--or ,partridges or ,grouse1 or a fine ,salad of ,game4 ,with the ,sweets ,i generally place about twelve--four on each table1 that is #d ,jellies1 #b ,creams1 #b ,bavaroises1 #d ,iced ,cabinet ,puddings1 and #d ,raised ,dishes of small ,pastry1 all of which are artistically disposed upon the table4 ,the fruits are likewise placed on the table3 they consist of simple ,compotes1 #f of various kinds and #f of ,dried ,fruit1 ,biscuits1 ,wafers and ,cossacks1 which last are getting much out of fashion1 but are very amusing4 ,the following is the ,bill of ,fare for ,mr4 ,b4's ,birthday ,party1 for which he allows me #ae1 with which ,i find everything in the shape of refreshments1 with the exception of wine2 it is-- ,one ,raised ,pie--,two ,mayonnaises of ,fowl--,two ,lobster ,salads--,one ,piece of ,roast ,beef--,four ,dishes of ,fowl--,two ,dishes of ,pheasant--,four ,dishes of ,tongue--,four ,dishes of ,ham--,four ,jellies with ,fruit--,two ,creams with ,noyeau--,two ,flancs with ,apple ,meringue--,two ,iced ,cabinet ,puddings--,two ,puddings la ,eloise--,six ,various ,pastry--,eight ,various ,compotes--,four ,pices ,montes in ,china with ,bonbons1 ,cossacks1 c4--,four of ,fruit1 as ,pears1 ,grapes1 c4--,four of ,dried ,fruit1 c4--,four of ,biscuits1 c4 ,this perhaps may appear extravagant1 but we always have them1 some country friends stopping a few days with us1 so that ,i manage to make the best of everything1 and make my week's account look very well4 ,we sometimes have as many as sixty on an evening4 ,our ,children's ,parties are as follows1 there are generally about fifty present3 #af ,dishes of ,sandwiches4 #d ,dishes of ,lamb4 #d ,dishes of ,ham4 #d do4 of ,slices of ,beef4 #d do4 of ,tongue4 #f do4 of ,fowls4 #aj ,dishes of ,slices of ,galantine of ,veal4 #a ,dish of ,dressed ,beef4 #bd ,dishes of ,various ,pastry1 ,custards1 ,jellies1 ,bonbons1 c4 ,but ,i remember when in business1 on those occasions we only used to have a large quantity of ,sandwiches and ,patties1 and used to amuse the children by labelling the ,dishes as ,sandwiches of ,peacock's ,tongues1 ,patties of ,partridge's ,eyes1 c41 and also a large quantity of plain ,sweets2 and at that period ,mr4 ,b4's birthday party was not so extensive or recherch as at present4 ,it consisted of something like the following3 ,a ,roast ,turkey--#b ,dishes of ,fowls--#a ,ham--#b ,pigeon ,pies--#a ,piece of ,boiled ,beef--#d ,lobsters--#d ,salads--#d ,jellies--#d ,tarts--#d of ,preserved ,fruit1 c4--#d of ,pastry2 with about twelve of various kinds of ,fruit1 c4 ,you will have seen by the previous ,bills of ,fare that ,i have not at all encroached upon the high-class cookery1 they being selected from the receipts ,i have given you2 in order that you may see the difference1 ,i inclose the ,bill of ,fare1 of a dinner given by--,bass1 ,esq41 ,m4 ,p41 at the ,reform ,club1 the other day1 and a copy of yesterday's ,post1 containing one given in the country4 ,you will find that the dishes mentioned in these ,bills of ,fare are not to be found in our receipts4 ,,reform ,,club1 #g ,juillet1 #ahdi4 ,dner pour #ah ,personnes4 ,rissoletes la ,pompadour4 ,petites ,croquantes aux oeufs de ,rougets4 ,rissoletes la ,pompadour4 ,petites ,croquantes aux oeufs de ,rougets4 ,deux ,potages4 ,one ,thick ,turtle4 ,one ,clear ,ditto4 99 99 99 99 99 ,deux ,poissons4 ,crimped ,salmon1 ,turbot en ,matelote ,normande4 la ,richelieu4 99 99 99 99 99 ,deux ,relevs4 ,la ,hanche de ,venaison aux haricots verts4 ,les ,poulardes en ,diadme4 99 99 99 99 99 ,six ,entres4 ,vol-au-,vent de ,foies gras la ,talleyrand4 ,ctelettes d',agneau demi ,provenale4 ,petits ,canetons ,canaris aux jeunes lgumes glaces4 ,noix de ,veau demi grasse la pure de concombres4 ,ortolans la ,vicomtesse4 ,aiguillettes de petits ,poussins la ,banquire 99 99 99 99 99 ,deux ,rtis4 ,les ,turkey ,poults piqus et bards1 garnis de ,cailles aux feuilles de vignes4 ,les ,jeunes ,levrauts au jus de groseilles4 99 99 99 99 99 ,huit ,entremets4 ,gele a l'eau de vie ,flanc d',abricts de ,dantzick4 aux ,liqueurs4 ,aspic de ,homard ,quartiers d',artichaux la ,gele4 la ,vnitienne4 ,petits ,pois ,gteau ,milanais l',anglaise4 au ,parmesan4 ,pain de ,pches ,bombe ,glace au ,noyau4 au ,caf ,moka1 99 99 99 99 99 ,jambon en surprise glac la ,vanille4 ,pudding la ,mphistophiles4 ,a4 ,,soyer4 ,,festivities ,,at ,,grendon ,,hall4 ,a series of festivities are taking place at the seat of ,sir ,george ,chetwynd1 ,bart41 ,grendon ,hall1 ,atherstone1 ,warwickshire1 to celebrate the christening of ,sir ,george's infant grandson4 ,the christening took place on ,tuesday1 at ,grendon church1 and in the evening a grand dinner was given in celebration of the event1 under the able superintendence of ,m4 ,alexis ,soyer4 ,as the dinner1 which was provided for twenty persons1 was of a very recherch description1 we subjoin the bill of fare4 ,deux ,potages4 ,one of ,clear ,turtle4 ,ditto la ,nivernaise4 99 99 99 99 99 ,deux ,poissons4 ,crimped ,severn ,salmon ,turbot la ,rgence4 la ,cardinal4 99 99 99 99 99 ,deux ,relevs4 ,la ,hanche de ,venaison4 ,deux ,poulardes la ,nelson4 99 99 99 99 99 ,rissolettes de ,foie gras la ,pompadour4 ,rissolettes de ,foie gras la ,pompadour4 ,six ,entres4 ,les ,ortolans la ,vicomtesse4 ,epigramme d',agneau la pure de concombres4 ,grenadins de ,veau aux petits pois4 ,filets de ,caneton au jus d'orange4 ,ctelettes de ,mouton la ,provenale4 ,turban de ,volaille la ,prigord4 99 99 99 99 99 ,deux ,rtis4 ,cailles bardes aux feuilles de vignes4 ,gelinottes des ,ardennes4 99 99 99 99 99 ,huit ,entremets4 ,turban de ,meringues ,pain de ,fruit aux ,pistaches4 aux ,pches4 ,galantine ,crotades d',artichaux la ,volire4 l',indienne4 ,vegetable ,marrow ,miroton de ,homard la ,bchamel4 la ,gele4 ,bavaroise ,mousseuse ,blanche ,crme l',ananas4 au ,marasquin4 99 99 99 99 99 ,ices4 ,deux ,relevs4 ,st4 ,james's ,pine ,apple ,hure de ,sanglier en surprise glac ,cake1 and la ,vanille4 the first ,strawberry4 ,petits ,biscuits souffls la ,crme4 ever made4 ,after dinner ,m4 ,soyer had the honor of presenting the youthful heir the proof copy of his new work on ,cookery4 ,morning ,post1 ,july #bf1 #ahdi4 ,,letter ,,xx ,a ,,new ,,aliment4 ,bifrons ,villa4 ,here1 dear ,eloise1 is an entirely new aliment1 which has never yet been introduced into this country4 ,a semi-epicure of our acquaintance1 on returning from his visit to the ,national ,guard of ,france1 presented me with a pound of it1 which he had purchased in ,paris2 but even there1 said he1 it is almost in its infancy2 you may fancy1 if ,i were not anxious of making an immediate trial of it2 but before ,i give you the receipt how to use it1 let me tell you ,i have found it most delicious4 ,mr4 ,b4 has not yet tasted it1 being for a week in the country1 but ,i am confident he will like it1 especially for breakfast3 but the puzzle is1 after my pound is used1 how we are to get more8 ,time1 ,i suppose1 will teach us4 ,it appears that we are indebted for it to a celebrated ,french gentleman1 ,m4 le ,docteur ,lamolte1 the inventor of the electric light1 who ingeniously1 though oddly1 named it ,cho-ca1 being a scientific composition of chocolat and caf1 the alliance of which balancing admirably their excellence and virtue1 and partly correcting their evils1 the first being rather irritable1 the second heavy4 ,but ,i think1 if my recollection serves me rightly1 the idea of this compound must have originated from that great ,french philosopher1 ,m4 de ,voltaire1 who constantly1 for his breakfast1 partook of half caf-au-lait and half chocolate1 which were served at the same time in separate vessels in a boiling state1 and poured from each slowly1 about eighteen inches in elevation from his cup1 which1 he said1 made it extremely light and digestible4 ,years after1 that still more extraordinary man1 ,napoleon ,bonaparte1 became so partial to it1 that he made a constant use of it1 and it has often been remarked by those who surrounded his person1 that after the great excitement and fatigue of a battle he has often partaken of two or three cups1 which seemed to restore all the strength and energy which used to characterize that great man2 on ordinary occasions one cup would suffice him1 but served more la militaire1 not being poured so scientifically as did the ,fernaise philosopher4 ,the approval of this mixed beverage by two such eminent characters speaks volumes in favor of the ,cho-ca1 which ought to be immediately introduced in ,england4 ,it will also1 no doubt1 interest you to learn that the first cup of coffee ever introduced in ,europe was made and presented to ,louis ,,xiv1 at his magnificent palace of ,versailles1 by the ,ambassador from the ,sublime ,porte in the year #affd1 when the noble potentate1 whose palate was as delicate as he was himself great1 pronounced it excellent2 and immediately perceived the immense advantage it would be to introduce such a delicacy into ,france as food1 which a short time after took place1 and was very successfully received there2 also the chocolate1 which is made from cacao1 was first introduced to the ,cardinal ,mazarin1 who1 having partook of the first cup like ,louis ,,xiv4 did of the coffee1 and not a worse judge than his illustrious master1 remunerated with a handsome reward its inventor4 ,it is much to be regretted that such interesting and useful subjects have never yet attracted the attention of our great ,painters1 instead of continually tracing on innumerable yards of canvass the horrors of war1 the destruction of a fleet by fire and water1 the plague1 the storm1 the earthquake1 or an eruption and destruction of a city by an avalanche or an inundation2 if we cannot do without those painful historical reminiscences1 why not add to those mournful collections a group of ,louis ,,xiv4 and his court at ,versailles1 where he1 magnificently dressed1 was receiving from the hands of the said ,pacha1 not a cup of coffee1 but a branch of that plant covered with its precious berries2 and why not also1 as a pendant1 ,mazarin surrounded by his satellites1 taking the first cup of chocolate2 or the characteristic ,voltaire pouring a cup of ,cho-ca to ,frederic the ,great in his tent on the field of ,potsdam8 ,these subjects seem to have been entirely neglected in being immortalized on canvass1 why8 because they have never done harm or evil to any one2 but1 on the contrary1 have1 are1 and ever will prove to be1 among the greatest boons ever conferred upon humanity3 it would also engrave in our minds1 as well as in our history1 to what mortals we are indebted for the importation and introduction of such important productions1 which daily constitute a part of our comforts1 and have conferred an everlasting benefit on mankind2 but1 as usual1 dear ,eloise1 you will no doubt reproach me for having so much enthusiasm2 however1 as on this subject you have been tolerably quiet lately1 ,i not only here inclose you the receipt1 but also two of the thin round cakes of this new aliment1 the ,cho-ca1 which will produce two cups by making it as follows3-- #hhj4 ,cho-ca4--,scrape or grate it2 put a pint of milk in a stewpan or chocolate-pot1 and place it on the fire1 with two ounces of sugar1 boil it1 put the ,cho-ca in it1 and stir it well for two minutes1 and serve4 ,,on ,,carving4 ,you reproach me for not having said a word about carving2 ,i have not done so1 as ,i think that is an accomplishment which our sex need not study1 but at the same time it is well to know a little of it4 ,it is rather difficult to give you a correct description without drawings1 but a few general remarks may be useful4 ,cut ,beef1 ,veal1 ,ham1 ,tongue1 and ,breasts of ,poultry1 with a sharp knife1 very thin2 ,mutton1 ,lamb1 and ,pork rather thicker4 ,never rise from your seat to carve2 never cut across the grain of the meat1 that is1 not across the ribs of beef1 as ,i have seen some persons do1 and ,mr4 ,b4 tells me is often done at clubs1 but it is only those do so who do not know how to carve or appreciate the true flavor of the meat4 ,never place a fork through the back of a fowl1 in order to carve the leg and wings1 but run the knife gently down each side the breast1 detaching the leg and wing at the same time1 which is greatly facilitated by the use of the ,tendon ,separator--one of which ,i purchased at ,bramah's1 in ,piccadilly2 it is the greatest boon ever conferred on a bad carver3 the directions for using it are given with it4 ,if it was more generally used1 there would be no more birds flying across the table in the faces of guests2 no more turkeys deposited in a lady's or gentleman's lap2 no more splashing of gravy to spoil satin dresses2 but all would be divided with the greatest facility1 and in the most elegant manner1 and the poultry would look much better at table4 ,never cut up the body of poultry at table1 that should always be left2 but game should be cut up1 as many epicures prefer the backbone4 ,for a sirloin of beef the under part of the loin should always be cut when hot1 and the upper part cut straight from the backbone towards the outside of the ribs1 by this plan you will not spoil the appearance of the joint4 ,ribs of ,beef should be carved in the same way1 cutting thin and slanting4 ,round of ,beef3 cut a slice half an inch thick from the outside1 and then carve thin slices1 with a little fat4 ,aitch-bone1 the same4 ,fillet of ,veal1 the same4 ,loin of ,veal1 carve as the ,sirloin of ,beef1 serving some of the kidney1 and fat to each person4 ,shoulder of ,veal1 begin from the knuckle1 cut thin and slanting4 ,saddle of ,mutton will1 if properly carved1 serve a great many persons2 instead of cutting a long slice the whole length1 put your knife under the meat and cut it away from the bone1 then cut it like thin chops1 serving lean and fat together2 according to the usual plan1 a saddle of mutton will serve but few people1 and the flavor of the meat is not so good as when served this way4 ,necks and ,loins3 the bones should be severed by a small meat-saw1 and not a chopper1 and the bone cut through when serving1 and carve slanting4 ,haunches are usually carved by making a cut near the knuckle and cutting a slice from that through the loin2 but by a plan ,i have adopted1 ,i find that the meat eats better1 and the joint goes farther4 ,i carve it like the leg and saddle1 that is1 ,i cut a slice out of the leg part and a slice from the loin1 and serve together4 ,this is more economical1 but would not do for venison4 ,lamb4--,for ,leg and ,shoulders1 proceed as for ,mutton4 ,the ,ribs1 when well prepared and the bones properly separated1 carve into cutlets1 and serve with a piece of the brisket4 ,quarter of ,lamb3 the ribs should be sawed through1 and the bones disjointed previous to cooking4 ,the shoulder should be then nicely removed1 the seasoning added2 then divide the ribs and serve one part of the brisket to each person4 ,pork3 proceed like the ,mutton4 ,in carving a ,ham1 remove a thick slice1 of about one inch1 flat cut slantways from the knuckle-end--a ,tongue1 begin three inches from the tip1 and cut thin slanting slices4 ,,letter ,no4 ,,xxi ,,the ,,septuagenarian ,,epicure4 ,,my ,,dear ,,eloise1--,having now arrived at the conclusion of our labors1 during which you have in many instances thought me rather severe1 and perhaps too exigeant in my remarks1 especially about the selection1 preparation1 and cooking of food in general1 which even to the last ,i must maintain1 that for want of judgment and a little care1 the greatest part of the nutrition of our aliments is often destroyed1 which constitutes a considerable waste1 being of no good to any one1 but an evil to everybody2 and when you consider the monstrous quantity of food our fragile bodies consume in this sublunary sphere during the course of our life1 the truth of my observation will be more apparent1 and make you agree with me that in every instance people ought really to devote more time1 care1 and personal attention to their daily subsistence1 it being the most expensive department through life of human luxury4 ,i shall1 for example1 give you a slight and correct idea of it1 which ,i am confident you never before conceived4 ,for this ,i shall propose to take seventy years of the life of an epicure1 beyond which age many of that class of bon vivants arrive1 and even above eighty1 still in the full enjoyment of degustation1 c41 7for example1 ,talleyrand1 ,cambacrs1 ,lord ,sefton1 c427 if the first of the said epicures when entering on the tenth spring of his extraordinary career1 had been placed on an eminence1 say1 the top of ,primrose hill1 and had had exhibited before his infantine eyes the enormous quantity of food his then insignificant person would destroy before he attained his seventy-first year1--first1 he would believe it must be a delusion2 then1 secondly1 he would inquire1 where the money could come from to purchase so much luxurious extravagance8 ,but here ,i shall leave the pecuniary expenses on one side1 which a man of wealth can easily surmount when required4 ,so now1 dearest1 for the extraordinary fact3 imagine on the top of the above-mentioned hill a rushlight of a boy just entering his tenth year1 surrounded with the recherch provision and delicacies claimed by his rank and wealth1 taking merely the medium consumption of his daily meals4 ,by closely calculating he would be surrounded and gazed at by the following number of quadrupeds1 birds1 fishes1 c43--,by no less than #cj oxen1 #bjj sheep1 #ajj calves1 #bjj lambs1 #ej pigs2 in poultry1 #abjj fowls1 #cjj turkeys1 #aej geese1 #djj ducklings1 #bfc pigeons2 #adjj partridges1 pheasants1 and grouse2 #fjj woodcocks and snipes2 #fjj wild ducks1 widgeon1 and teal2 #dej plovers1 ruffes1 and reeves2 #hjj quails1 ortolans1 and dotterels1 and a few guillemts and other foreign birds2 also #ejj hares and rabbits1 #dj deer1 #abj ,guinea fowl1 #aj peacocks1 and #cfj wild fowl4 ,in the way of fish1 #abj turbot1 #adj salmon1 #abj cod1 #bfj trout1 #djj mackerel1 #cjj whitings1 #hjj soles and slips1 #djj flounders1 #djj red mullet1 #bjj eels1 #aej haddocks1 #djj herrings1 #ejjj smelts1 and some hundred thousand of those delicious silvery whitebait1 besides a few hundred species of fresh-water fishes4 ,in shell-fish1 #bj turtle1 #cj1jjj oysters1 #aejj lobsters or crabs1 #cjj1jjj prawns1 shrimps1 sardines and anchovies4 ,in the way of fruit1 about #ejj lbs4 of grapes1 #cfj lbs4 of pine-apples1 #fjj peaches1 #adjj apricots1 #bdj melons1 and some hundred thousand plums1 greengages1 apples1 pears1 and some millions of cherries1 strawberries1 raspberries1 currants1 mulberries1 and an abundance of other small fruit1 viz41 walnuts1 chestnuts1 dry figs and plums4 ,in vegetables of all kinds1 #edge pounds weight1 and about #bdcd pounds of butter1 #fhd pounds of cheese1 #ba1jjj eggs1 #hjj do4 plovers'4 ,of bread1 #d tons1 half a ton of salt and pepper1 near #b tons of sugar2 and1 if he had happened to be a covetous boy1 he could have formed a fortification or moat round the said hill with the liquids he would have to partake of to facilitate the digestion of the above-named provisions1 which would amount to no less than #aa1fgc gallons1 which may be taken as below3--#di hogsheads of wine1 #acfh gallons of beer1 #ehd gallons of spirits1 #cdb liqueur1 #bcid gallons of coffee1 cocoa1 tea1 c41 and #cjd gallons of milk1 #bgcf gallons of water1 all of which would actually protect him and his anticipated property from any young thief or fellow schoolboy1 like ,alexandre ,dumas had protected ,dante and his immense treasure from the pirates in his island of ,monte ,christo4 ,you now1 dearest1 fancy that ,i am exaggerating in every way2 but to convince you1 and to prevent your puzzling your brain to no purpose1 ,i also enclose you a medium scale of the regular meals of the day1 from which ,i have taken my basis1 and in sixty years it amounts to no less than #cc tons weight of meat1 farinaceous food and vegetables1 c42 out of which ,i have named in detail the probable delicacies that would be selected by an epicure through life4 ,but observe that ,i did not count the first ten years of his life1 at the beginning of which he lived upon pap1 bread and milk1 c41 also a little meat1 the expense of which ,i add to the age from then to twenty1 as no one can really be called an epicure before that age2 it will thus make the expenses more equal as regards the calculation4 ,the following is the list of what ,i consider his daily meals3-- ,breakfast4--,three quarters of a pint of coffee1 four ounces of bread1 one ounce of butter1 two eggs1 or four ounces of meat1 or four ounces of fish4 ,lunch4--,two ounces of bread1 two ounces of meat1 or poultry1 or game1 two ounces of vegetables1 and half a pint of beer or a glass of wine4 ,dinner4--,half a pint of soup1 a quarter of a pound of fish1 half a pound of meat1 a quarter of a pound of poultry1 a quarter of a pound of savory dishes or game1 two ounces of vegetables1 two ounces of bread1 two ounces of pastry or roasts1 half an ounce of cheese1 a quarter of a pound of fruit1 one pint of wine1 one glass of liqueur1 one cup of coffee or tea2 at night one glass of spirits and water4 ,now that ,i have given you these important details1 perhaps you will give me some little credit for my exaction and severity respecting the attention which ought to be daily paid to the indispensable and useful art of cookery by our middle classes4 ,i shall also observe to you1 that those masses of provisions above described in the expos of sixty years1 have been selected1 dressed1 and served1 by scientific hands1 every real epicure choosing through life the best cook1 and consequently the best of provisions1 which1 had they have fallen into the hands of inexperienced persons1 would very likely have wasted one third1 thereby increasing the expenses1 and never giving any real satisfaction to the consumer2 therefore let us act in a small way as becomes us1 as it is for the wealthy according to their incomes2 let every housekeeper devote more time to the study of domestic and practical economy2 in many instances it will increase their incomes as well as their daily comforts1 as ,i remarked to you that the pleasures of the table being not only the most expensive part of human luxury1 but also the soul of sociability1 require more attention bestowed upon it than is done at the present day4 ,fare you well1 ,,hortense4 ,,index4 ,acid1 #eg ,a-la-mode ,beef1 #afd1 #afe ,albumen1 #aeh ,almond ,water1 #db ,almond ,cake1 ,iced1 #cjd ,ice1 ,white1 #big ,aitch-,bone of ,beef1 #abb ,aliment1 a ,new1 #cde ,apple ,bread1 #bhd ,charlotte1 #bhb ,compote1 #cjg1 #cjh ,dumplings1 #bid ,flanc1 #bge ,fritters1 #bha ,jelly1 #cbj saut in ,butter1 #bhe ,pie1 #bif ,pudding1 #bid ,vol-au-,vent1 #bgc ,apples1 ,baked1 #de and ,fig ,beverage1 #de and ,rice ,pudding1 #dg with ,rice1 #bhc with ,butter1 #bhd ,apricot ,compote1 #cjh1 #cji1 #caj ,fritters1 #bhb ,ice ,cream1 #cag ,marmalade1 #cah ,nougat1 #bgh ,pudding1 #bid ,arrow-root1 #ci ,jelly1 #dj ,water1 #dd ,broth1 #cd ,artichokes1 #bei ,jerusalem1 #ha1 #bei ,asparagus1 #bec with ,eggs1 #bag ,aspic of ,meat1 #bdj ,bacon1 to choose1 #ah1 #adj to boil1 #ada to broil1 #ai ,baking1 on1 #fj ,barley ,lemonade1 #db ,barley ,orangeade1 #dc ,barley ,water1 #da ,batter for ,fritters1 #cje ,beans1 ,broad1 #bei ,french1 #bei la ,matre d',htel1 #bei ,haricot1 #bfj ,young1 #bfj la ,bretonne1 #bfa ,beef1 on1 #aah ,a-la-mode1 #afd1 #afe ,aitch-,bone of1 #abb ,brisket of1 #abb ,croquettes of1 #afg ,choice of1 #aah ,essence of1 #cf ,family ,salad of1 #afg ,fillets of1 ,broiled1 #afe ,saut1 #aff to hang1 #aah ,hashed1 #aeh ,minced1 #aff ,miroton1 #aei1 #afj ,palates1 #afj la ,bretonne1 #afa la ,poulette1 #afa la ,matre d',htel1 #afa ,pickle for1 la ,garrick1 #bdb ,pressed1 #bdb remains of1 #aeh ,ribs of1 ,braised1 #aai ,larded1 #bda ,roasted1 #aai ,round of1 ,salted1 #aba cold1 #aba ,rump ,steak1 ,stewed1 #afd ,half-round of1 silver side1 #aba ,salt1 remains of1 #afi ,salt1 ,bubble and ,squeak1 #afc ,sirloin of1 #aai ,stewed ,rump of1 #abj ,spiced1 #bdb ,tea1 #cf ,beignet ,souffl1 #bha ,beet-root1 #beh ,beurre ,noir1 or ,black ,butter1 #ih ,beverage1 ,refreshing1 #dc1 #dd ,bills of ,fare1 #cci ,biscuit ,souffl1 #cja ,cocoa-,nut1 #cbe ,cream1 #cbf ,moss1 #cbe ,rout1 #cbe ,blackberry ,pudding1 #bid ,black-,pudding1 broiled1 #bj ,blancmange1 #bij ,bloaters1 #ae ,boiling1 on1 #fj ,boudins of ,fowl1 #aig ,turkey1 #aig ,bottoms and ,tops1 to make1 #aa ,braising1 on1 #fj ,braise-,roast1 #adg ,boil1 #adh ,bread1 to make1 #aj and ,milk1 #cj and ,apple1 #bhd ,breakfast ,table1 #g1 #bf ,brocoli1 #beg ,broiling1 #fc ,broth1 ,arrow-root1 #cd ,chicken1 #cg1 #ec ,eel1 #ch ,mutton1 #cc ,rice1 #cd ,french ,herb1 #dd ,seasoned1 #cc ,semoulina1 #cd ,turkey1 #adg ,various1 #cd ,vermicelli1 #cd ,veal1 #ce ,brown ,stock1 #gg ,browning1 #gh ,brioche ,rolls1 to make1 #ab ,brussels ,sprouts1 #bei ,bubble and ,squeak1 #afc ,buns1 to make1 #ab ,butter1 #ccd ,anchovy1 #aag ,burnt1 #bag ,lobster1 #aag ,melted1 #aab ,matre d',htel1 #aag ,ravigote1 #aag ,cacao1 #be ,cake1 ,almond1 #cbe ,cinnamon1 #cbf ,ginger1 #cbf ,pound1 #cbd ,queen's1 #cbd ,rout1 #cbe ,savoy1 in ,moulds1 #cbb ,cake1 ,savoy1 or ,ladies' ,fingers1 #cbc ,shrewsbury1 #cbf ,sponge1 #cbc small1 #cbd ,st4 ,james's1 #cbg ,royal ,iceing for1 #cab ,calf's ,brains1 la ,matre d',htel1 #age fried1 #age to prepare1 #abh ,ears1 stewed1 #agd ,feet1 #ec1 #bad1 #bdj ,feet ,jelly1 #bhf ,head1 #abh1 #acj ,curry1 #bac ,hollandaise1 #acj with ,mushrooms1 #acj with ,tomatos1 #acj ,heart1 roasted1 #agb ,liver1 ,english fashion1 #agb fried1 #age sautd1 #agb stewed1 #age ,sweetbreads1 #agc au ,gratin1 #agd another way1 #agc ,caper ,sauce1 #aac ,capillaire1 #ccj ,capon1 boiled1 #aea and ,cresses1 #bbg l',estragon1 #aeg ,pie1 #bcf ,roast1 #aej ,roast braised1 #adg ,stewed1 #aea ,capilotade of ,poultry1 #aic ,carp1 baked1 #ajf ,sauce ,matelote1 #ajf ,carrot ,pudding1 #bib with ,poulards1 #aeb ,soup1 #hi ,white1 #hi ,sauce1 #gc ,carving1 #cdf ,cauliflower1 #beg ,gratin1 with ,cheese1 #beg ,pure1 ,soup1 #ga1 #hi ,celery1 #bef ,cheesecakes1 #bbi ,lemon1 #bhj ,maids of ,honor1 #bhj ,puff1 #cjc ,cheese ,souffl1 #cjd ,raminole1 #cjc ,charlotte1 ,apple1 #bhb ,russe1 #bhi ,cheese1 to make1 #cjd ,charlotte1 ,strawberry1 #bhi ,chartreuse of ,fruit1 #bij ,cherry ,draught1 #dd ,compote1 #cji1 #caa ,cherry ,marmalade1 #cai ,omelette1 #bha ,vol-au-,vent1 #bga ,pudding1 #bie ,chestnut ,pudding1 #bif ,chicken1 ,boiled1 #ec1 #aic ,braised1 #aib ,broth1 #cg1 #ec ,curry1 #baj ,italian way1 #aec ,pie1 #bjc ,roast ,braised1 #aib ,roast1 for ,invalids1 #ec ,spring1 #bbh ,stewed1 #aej ,chicore ,sauce1 #gb ,choice of ,pork1 #aci ,choca1 #cde1 #cdf ,chocolate1 #be ,italian1 #be ,iceing for ,cakes1 #cab ,ice ,cream1 #caf ,choice of ,meat1 #aah ,chopping of ,herbs1 #bfg ,chump of ,veal1 #abe1 #abg ,clear ,soup1 #gi ,clarify ,stock1 to1 #gi ,cock-a-leekie ,soup1 #hc ,cocoa1 #be1 #bf ,nut ,biscuits1 #cbe ,cod1 ,boiled1 #ie with ,oysters1 #ie ,coffee1 on1 #bj to choose1 #bb where first used in ,london1 #ba to make1 #bb ,french1 #bc ,white1 #bc made with a filter1 #bd another way1 #bd ,cold ,ham1 #ada1 #bdj ,conger ,eel1 ,stewed1 #aaj ,confectioner's ,paste1 #bgj ,conversation on ,household ,affairs1 #ccf ,compote of ,pigeons1 #bjj of ,fruits1 #caj ,cooling ,drink1 #db ,lemonade1 #de ,cow ,heels1 #afi ,crab ,curry1 #bae ,cranberry ,pie1 #bif ,cresses with ,pullet1 #bbg ,cream1 ,bohemian ,jelly1 #bhh ,clouted1 #cce ,coffee ,souffl1 #cjb ,coffee ,ice1 #caf ,pastry ,saut1 #bhf ,omelette ,souffl1 #cja ,rice1 #bii ,sauce1 #aaf with ,spinach1 #bfj ,crcy ,soup1 #hi ,croquettes of ,fowl1 #aie ,macaroni1 #bhe ,rice1 #bhe ,crumpets1 to make1 #aa to toast1 #i to serve1 #aj ,crusts of ,fruit1 #bgh ,madeira1 #bgi ,cucumbers1 #beh ,brown ,sauce1 #fg ,white ,sauce1 #ga1 #gc with ,poulards1 #aeb ,curaao ,jelly1 #bhg ,currant ,jelly1 #cbj with ,omelette1 #bha ,red1 ,white ,black for ,puddings1 #bid and ,raspberry ,pie1 #bie ,compote1 #caa ,salad1 #cbb ,sweetmeat of1 #cbj ,curry1 ,beef1 #bab ,calf's ,head1 ,feet1 and ,tail1 #bac1 #bad ,chicken1 #baj with ,paste1 #baj ,crab1 #bae ,fillets of ,haddock1 #baf ,sole1 #baf ,whiting1 #baf ,game1 #bba ,lamb1 #bab1 #bac ,lamb's ,head1 #bad ,lobster1 #bad ,mutton1 #bab ,ox ,tail1 #bad ,oyster1 #bae ,pork1 #bab ,prawn1 #bae ,rabbit1 #baa ,salmon1 #bae ,skate1 #baf ,sauce1 #fi ,tripe1 #bad ,turbot1 #baf ,veal1 #baa ,breast of1 #bab ,custard ,pudding1 #dg1 #cfd ,damson ,pie1 #bie ,pudding1 #bid ,dartoise ,fourre1 #bgh ,demi-,plum ,pudding1 #bib ,dessert1 #cje ,dewberry and ,raspberry ,pie1 #bie ,diablotins1 #cjd ,dinner1 ,nursery1 #bh ,table1 #cbg ,d',office1 ,paste1 #bgj ,dried ,haddock1 #af ,mackerel1 #ig ,sprats1 #ag ,draught1 ,cherry1 #dd ,drink1 ,cooling1 #db ,new1 #da ,strengthening1 #dc ,dry ,toast1 #i ,ducks1 on1 #aef l',aubergiste1 #aeg to choose1 #aef ,roasted1 #aef ,stewed with ,peas1 #aef1 #aih ,turnips1 #aeg1 #aii ,varieties of1 #aef ,ducklings1 #bbh ,pie1 #bcf ,stewed with ,peas1 #aef ,turnips1 #aeg ,remains of1 #aeg ,duck1 ,wild1 #bcj ,hashed1 #bbe with ,orange ,sauce1 #bbe ,ears1 ,calf's1 ,stewed1 #agd ,ecarlate of ,fowl1 #aec ,eels1 on1 #aji to kill1 #aji ,broth1 #ch ,fried1 #aji ,pie1 #bje ,spitchcocked1 #aaj ,skinned1 #aji ,stewed1 #aji la ,tartare1 #aaj ,effects of ,fish1 #ic ,eggs au ,beurre1 #ac ,baked1 #baf with ,asparagus1 #bag with burnt ,butter1 #bag ,hard1 #ad in ,cases1 #bah with ,cheese1 #bah to choose1 #ab with ,green ,peas1 #bag with ,ham1 #ai plain ,boiled1 #ac ,poached1 #ad ,mashed1 #bag ,meagre1 #bag with ,mushrooms1 #bag ,sauce1 #aab ,snow1 #bag with ,sprue ,grass1 #bag sur le plat1 #ad and ,toast1 #ad la ,tripe1 #bag ,endive ,sauce or ,pure1 #gb ,entres1 or ,made ,dishes1 #aeh of ,game1 #bbj ,epicure1 the ,septuagenarian1 #cdh ,escalops1 #bej ,escaloped ,oysters1 #bej ,eschalot ,sauce1 #ff ,essence of ,beef1 #cf ,fennel ,sauce1 #aab ,feet1 ,lamb's1 #eb1 #ahe ,ox1 #afi ,calf's1 #ec ,fish1 on1 #ic ,french-,anglais way of stewing #aaj for ,breakfast1 #ae ,carp1 #ajf ,cod1 #ie ,conger ,eel1 #aaj ,eels1 #aji ,effects of1 #ic ,forcemeat of1 #beb ,flounders1 #ajd ,haddock1 #if ,herrings1 #ajj ,mackerel1 #ig ,maids1 #ajd ,perch1 #ajh ,pike1 #aje ,red ,mullet1 or ,sur ,mullet1 #ii ,salmon1 #id ,sauces1 #aaa ,salad1 #bdg ,salt1 #ie ,skate1 #ajd ,smelts1 #aja ,soles1 #ajc ,sturgeon1 #if1 #ig ,tench1 #ajh ,trout1 #ajg ,turbot1 #ajb ,white ,bait1 #aja ,whiting1 #ii ,fish1 ,shell-- ,escalops1 #bej ,oysters1 #bej ,razor or ,solen1 #bej ,prawns1 #bej ,shrimps1 #bea ,fisherman's ,soup1 #hf ,fillet of ,beef1 broiled1 #afe ,veal1 cold1 #bda roast1 #abe ,flancs1 #bgd ,flanc of ,apple1 #bge ,fruit1 #bgd ,meringue1 #bgd what they are1 #aeh ,flounders1 on1 #ajd ,water ,souchet1 #ajd ,fried1 #aja ,food1 light1 for invalids1 #cc ,forcemeat1 on1 #bea to make1 #bea of ,fish1 #beb ,panada for1 #beb of ,veal1 #bec of ,whitings1 #beb ,fondu1 ,parmesan1 #cjb ,neapolitan1 #cjb simple1 #cjb ,stilton ,cheese1 #cjc ,fourre1 ,dartoise1 #bgh ,gteau1 #bgg ,rissole1 #bgf ,fowls1 on1 #adi ,blanquettes of1 #aid ,boiled1 #aid ,braised1 #aid ,broiled1 #aid1 #aie ,boudins of1 #aig ,croquettes of1 #aie ,fricasse of1 #aie ,fried1 #aic ,hashed1 ,indian1 #aic ,italian way1 #aec l',ecarlate1 #aec la ,marengo1 #aif ,minced1 #aid ,pie1 #bce ,pillau1 #bji ,pulled1 for invalids1 #ed ,roast braised1 #adh ,saut1 #aid1 #aif1 #aig1 #aii ,salad1 #bdi to truss1 #aej ,fowl1 ,guinea1 #bbi ,pea1 #bbi ,french ,beans1 #bei ,coffee1 #bc ,herb ,broth1 #dd ,panada1 #da1 #beb ,remedy for ,colds1 #ch ,plums ,compote1 #cji ,fritadella1 #aij ,fritters1 ,apple1 #bhb ,apricot1 #bhb ,orange1 #bhb ,peach1 #bhb ,souffl1 #bhb ,fruit1 ,chartreuse of1 #bih ,crusts1 #bgh ,flanc of1 #bgd ,rissolettes1 #bgc ,puddings1 #bid ,pies1 #bif ,salads of1 #cba1 #cbb ,vol-au-,vent1 #bga ,wall1 #bie ,fricandeau of ,veal1 #agj to carve1 #aga to dress1 #aga ,various ways1 #aga ,fritadella1 #aij ,frying1 on1 #fa ,fry1 ,lamb's1 #ach ,fumet de ,gibier ,sauce1 #bcc ,game1 choice of1 #bbi to keep1 #bbi ,made-dishes of1 #bbj ,salad of1 #bdh ,soup1 #ib ,tureen of1 #bcg ,entres of1 #bbj ,dunbird1 #bca ,garganey1 #bca ,gorcock1 #bcj ,grouse1 #bcj ,red1 #bcj ,white1 #bcj ,half ,birds1 #bca ,lark1 #bcb ,moorcock1 or ,gorcock1 #bcj ,moor-game1 #bcj ,partridge1 #bcj ,red-legged1 #bcj ,pea ,fowl1 #bbi ,pheasant1 #bbi ,hybrid1 #bbi ,plovers1 #bca ,pochard1 #bca ,ptarmigan1 #bcj ,quails1 #bcb ,red ,heads1 #bca ,snipes1 #bcb ,teal1 #bca ,whim1 #bca ,whewer1 #bca ,widgeons1 #bca ,great ,headed1 #bca ,woodcock1 #bca ,garlic ,sauce1 #fh ,garniture for ,omelettes1 #bai ,garum ,sauce1 #aaa ,sociorum1 #aaa ,gteau ,fourr1 #bgg ,galantine1 to cook1 #bch ,jelly1 #bhg ,turkey1 #bch ,veal1 #bda how got1 #aag ,gibelote of ,rabbit1 #bjj ,giblets1 #he1 #aee ,glaze1 #gh ,gold ,jelly1 #bhg ,goose1 #aec to choose1 #aec ,giblets1 #aee ,hashed1 #aii ,pie1 #bcf ,preserved1 #aee ,stewed1 #aee ,stuffing1 #aed ,roasted1 #aed1 #aee ,trussed1 #aed ,gooseberry1 ,green1 ,compote1 #caa ,pie1 #bie ,pudding1 #bid ,vol-au-,vent1 #bgb with ,rhubarb1 #big ,gosling1 ,roast1 #bbh ,grass1 ,sprue1 #bee ,gratin of ,lobster1 #bde ,gravy1 ,brown1 #gg ,spinach and1 #bfj ,turkey1 #ade ,greengage ,compote1 #cjh1 #caa ,greengage ,pudding1 #bid ,groats1 ,scotch1 ,gruel1 #dj ,grouse ,pie1 #bjd1 #bcf ,scotch ,plan of 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,,poetical ,,works4 ,illustrated with several beautiful ,steel ,engravings4 #a vol4 #hvo41 fine paper1 cloth1 #c #ej2 cloth1 gilt edges1 #d #ej2 morocco extra1 #f #ej4 ,,sacred ,,poets 7,the7 of ,england and ,america1 for ,three ,centuries4 ,edited by ,rufus ,w4 ,griswold4 ,illustrated with ,steel ,engravings4 #a vol4 #hvo41 cloth1 #b #ej2 gilt edges1 #c2 morocco1 #c #ej2 morocco extra1 #d4 ,,poems ,,by ,,amelia4 ,new and enlarged edition1 beautifully illustrated with original designs1 by ,weir1 and ,portrait of the ,author4 #a vol4 #hvo41 cloth extra1 gilt edges1 #c2 morocco extra1 #d2 morocco antique1 #e2 #abmo41 without ,plates1 #a #be2 gilt edges1 #a #ej4 ,no expense has been spared in the mechanical execution of the above popular standard authors4 ,,cabinet ,,editions4 ,,campbell',s ,,complete ,,poetical ,,works4 ,illustrated with ,steel ,engravings and a ,portrait4 #afmo41 cloth1 #a #ej2 gilt edges1 #b #be2 morocco extra1 #c4 ,,butler',s ,,hudibras1 with ,notes by ,nash4 ,illustrated with ,portraits4 #afmo41 cloth1 #a #ej2 gilt edges1 #b #be2 morocco extra1 #c4 ,,dante',s ,,poems4 ,translated by ,cary4 ,illustrated with a fine ,portrait and #ab ,engravings4 #afmo41 cloth1 #a #ej2 gilt edges1 #b #be2 morocco extra1 #c4 ,,tasso',s ,,jerusalem ,,delivered4 ,translated by ,wiffen4 ,illustrated with a ,portrait and ,steel ,engravings4 #a vol4 #afmo4 ,uniform with ,dante4 ,cloth1 #a #ej2 gilt edges1 #b #be2 morocco1 #c4 ,,byron',s ,,childe ,,harold',s ,,pilgrimage4 #afmo4 ,illustrated1 cloth1 #a #be2 gilt edges1 #b2 morocco extra1 #b #ej4 ,,burns' ,,complete ,,poetical ,,works1 with ,life1 ,glossary1 c4 #afmo41 cloth1 illustrated1 #a #be2 gilt edges1 #b2 morocco extra1 #b #ej4 ,,cowper',s ,,complete ,,poetical ,,works1 with ,life1 c4 ,morocco extra1 #b vols4 in #a1 #c2 cloth1 #a #ej2 gilt edges1 #b #ej4 ,,milton',s ,,complete ,,poetical ,,works1 with ,life1 c4 #afmo41 cloth1 illustrated1 #a #be2 gilt edges1 #b2 morocco extra1 #b #ej4 ,,scott',s ,,poetical 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,notes by ,johnson4 #abmo4 ,,cicero ,de ,senectute and ,de ,amicitia4 ,notes by ,johnson4 #abmo4 7,in ,press47 ,,cicero ,de ,officiis4 ,notes by ,thatcher4 #abmo4 ,,horace1 with ,notes by ,lincoln4 #abmo4 7,in ,press47 ,,livy1 with ,notes by ,lincoln4 #abmo4 #a #jj ,,sallust1 with ,notes by ,butler4 #abmo4 7,in ,press47 ,,tacitus',s ,histories4 ,notes by ,tyler4 #abmo4 #a #be ---- ,germania and ,agricola4 ,notes by ,tyler4 #abmo4 #fb ,,ii4 ,,hebrew4 ,,gesenius',s ,hebrew ,grammar4 ,edited by ,rdiger4 ,translated from the best ,german edition1 by ,conant4 #hvo4 #b #jj ,,iii4 ,,english4 ,,arnold',s ,lectures on ,modern ,history4 #abmo4 #a #be ,,bojeson and ,arnold's ,manual of ,greek and ,roman ,antiquities4 #abmo4 #a #jj ,,crosby',s ,first ,lessons in ,geometry4 #afmo4 #ch ,,chare',s ,treatise on ,algebra4 #abmo4 #a #jj ,,everett',s ,system of ,english ,versification4 #abmo4 #ge ,,graham',s ,english ,synonymes4 ,edited by ,professor ,reed1 of ,pa4 ,university4 #abmo4 #a #jj ,,guizot',s ,history of ,civilization4 ,notes by ,professor ,henry1 of ,n4,y4 ,university4 #abmo4 #a #jj ,,hows' ,shaksper4 ,reader4 #abmo4 #a #be ,,jager',s ,class ,book of ,zoology4 #ahmo4 #db ,,keightley',s ,mythology of ,greece and ,rome4 #ahmo4 #db ,,magnall',s ,histor4 ,questions4 ,with ,american additions4 #abmo4 #a #jj ,,markham',s ,school ,history of ,england4 ,edited by ,eliza ,robins1 author of ,popular ,lessons4 #abmo4 #ge ,,mandeville',s ,series of ,school ,readers3 ---- ,part ,i4 #aj ---- ,part ,,ii4 #af ---- ,part ,,iii4 #be ---- ,part ,,iv4 #ch ---- ,course of ,reading for ,common ,schools and ,lower ,academies4 #abmo4 #ge ---- ,elements of ,reading and ,oratory4 #hvo4 #a #jj ,,putz and ,,arnold',s ,manual of ,ancient ,geography and ,history4 #abmo4 #a #jj ,,reid',s ,dictionary of the ,english ,language1 with ,derivations1 c4 #abmo4 #a #jj ,,sewell',s ,first ,history of ,rome4 #afmo4 #ej ,,taylor',s ,manual of ,modern and ,ancient ,history4 ,edited by ,professor ,henry4 #hvo41 cloth or sheep #b #ej ,,taylor',s ,ancient ,history4 ,separate #a #be ,,taylor',s ,modern ditto #a #ej ,,wright',s ,primary ,lessons2 or ,child's ,first ,book #ab ,in ,press4 ,,green',s 7,profesor7 ,manual of the ,geography and ,history of the ,middle ,ages4 #abmo4 ,,burnham',s ,new ,mental and ,written ,arithmetic4 ,,text ,,books ,,for ,,learning ,,the ,,french1 ,,german1 ,,italian1 ,,and ,,spanish ,,languages4 ,i4 ,,french4 ,,collot',s ,dramatic ,french ,reader4 #abmo4 #a4 ,,de ,,fiva',s ,elementary ,french ,reader4 #abmo4 #ej cts4 ,,de ,,fiva',s ,classic ,french ,reader for ,advanced ,students4 #abmo4 #a4 ,,ollendorff',s ,elementary ,french ,grammar4 ,by ,greene4 #afmo4 #ch cts4 with ,key1 #ej cts4 ,,ollendorff',s ,new ,method of ,learning ,french4 ,edited by ,j4 ,l4 ,jewett4 #abmo4 #a4 ,,key to ditto4 #ge cts4 ,,rowan',s ,modern ,french ,reader4 #abmo4 #ge cts4 ,,surrenne',s ,french ,pronouncing ,dictionary4 #abmo4 #a #ej4 ,,value',s ,new and ,easy ,system of ,learning ,french4 #abmo4 7,in ,press47 ,,new and ,,complete ,,french and ,,english ,,dictionary4 #a vol4 #hvo4 ,to match ,adler's ,german ,lexicon4 7,in ,press47 ,,ii4 ,,german4 ,,adler',s ,progressive ,german ,reader4 #abmo4 #a4 ,,german and ,english1 and ,english and ,german ,dictionary1 compiled from the best authorities4 #a vol4 large #hvo4 #e4 ,,eichorn',s ,new ,practical ,german ,grammar4 #abmo4 #a4 ,,ollendorff',s ,new ,method of ,learning ,german4 ,edited by ,g4 ,j4 ,adler #abmo4 #a #ej4 ,,iii4 ,,italian4 ,,foresti',s ,italian ,reader4 #abmo4 #a4 ,,ollendorff',s ,new ,method of ,learning ,italian4 ,edited by ,f4 ,foresti4 #abmo4 #a #ej4 ,,key to ditto1 #ge cts4 ,,iv4 ,,spanish4 ,,ollendorff',s ,new ,method of ,learning ,spanish4 ,by ,m4 ,velasquez and ,t4 ,simonne4 #abmo4 #a #ej4 ,,key to ditto1 #ge cts4 ,,palenzuela',s new ,grammar on the ,ollendorff ,system1 for ,spaniards to ,learn ,english4 7,in ,press47 ,,velasquez',s ,new ,spanish ,reader4 ,with ,lexicon4 #abmo4 #a #be4 ,,velasquez',s ,new ,spanish ,phrase ,book2 or ,conversations in ,english and ,spanish4 #ahmo4 #ch cts4 ,,velasquez',s and ,,seoane',s ,new ,spanish and ,english1 and ,english and ,spanish ,dictionary4 ,large #hvo4 ,to match ,adler's ,german ,lexicon4 7,in ,press47 ,,new ,,illustrated ,,juveniles4 ,,aunt ,,fanny',s ,,story ,,book4 ,illustrated4 #afmo4 #ej ,,the ,,child',s ,,present4 ,illustrated4 #afmo4 ,,howitt',s ,,picture ,,and ,,verse ,,book4 ,illustrated with #ajj plates4 #ge cts42 gilt #a #jj ,,home ,,for ,,the ,,holidays4 ,illustrated4 #dto41 #be cts42 cloth #ej ,,story ,,of ,,joan ,,of ,,arc4 ,by ,r4 ,m4 ,evans4 ,with #bc illustrations4 #afmo4 #ge ,,robinson ,,crusoe4 ,pictorial ,edition4 #cjj plates4 #hvo4 #a #ej ,,the ,,caravan2 ,a ,,collection ,,of ,,tales ,,and ,,stories ,,from ,,the ,,german4 ,translated by ,g4 ,p4 ,quackenboss4 ,illustrated by ,orr4 #afmo4 ,,innocence ,,of ,,childhood4 ,by ,mrs4 ,colman4 ,illustrated #ej ,,home ,,recreations1 comprising ,travels and ,adventures1 c4 ,colored 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,by ,mary ,gertrude4 #ch ,,rowan',s ,history of the ,french ,revolution4 #b vols4 #ge ,,southey',s ,life of ,cromwell #ch ,,tales ,,for ,,the ,,people ,,and ,,their ,,children4 ,,alice ,,franklin4 ,by ,mary ,howitt #ch ,,love ,,and ,,money4 ,by do4 #ch ,,hope ,,on1 ,,hope ,,ever6 ,do4 #ch ,,little ,,coin1 ,,much ,,care4 ,by do4 #ch ,,my ,,own ,,story4 ,by do4 #ch ,,my ,,uncle1 ,,the ,,clockmaker4 ,by do4 #ch ,,no ,,sense ,,like ,,common ,,sense4 ,by do4 #ch ,,sowing ,,and ,,reaping4 ,do4 #ch ,,strive ,,and ,,thrive4 ,by do4 #ch ,,the ,,two ,,apprentices4 ,by do4 #ch ,,which ,,is ,,the ,,wiser8 ,do4 #ch ,,who ,,shall ,,be ,,greatest8 ,by do4 #ch ,,work ,,and ,,wages4 ,by do4 #ch ,,crofton ,,boys1 ,the4 ,by ,harriet ,martineau #ch ,,dangers ,,of ,,dining ,,out4 ,by ,mrs4 ,ellis #ch ,,first ,,impressions4 ,by do4 #ch ,,minister',s ,,family4 ,by do4 #ch ,,sommerville ,,hall4 ,by do4 #ch ,,domestic ,,tales4 ,by ,hannah ,more4 #b vols4 #ge ,,early ,,friendship4 ,by ,mrs4 ,copley #ch ,,farmer',s ,,daughter1 ,the4 ,by ,mrs4 ,cameron #ch ,,looking-,,glass ,,for ,,the ,,mind4 ,many plates #de ,,masterman ,,ready4 ,by ,capt4 ,marryat4 #c vols4 #a #ab ,,peasant ,,and ,,the ,,prince4 ,by ,h4 ,martineau #ch ,,poplar ,,grove4 ,by ,mrs4 ,copley #ch ,,settlers ,,in ,,canada4 ,by ,capt4 ,marryatt4 #b vols4 #ge ,,tired ,,of ,,housekeeping4 ,by ,t4 ,s4 ,arthur #ch ,,twin ,,sisters1 ,the4 ,by ,mrs4 ,sandham #ch ,,young ,,student4 ,by ,madame ,guizot4 #c vols4 #a #ab ,,second ,,series4 ,,chances ,,and ,,changes4 ,by ,charles ,burdett #ch ,,never ,,too ,,late4 ,by do4 #ch ,,goldmaker',s ,,village4 ,by ,h4 ,zschokke #ch ,,ocean ,,work1 ,,ancient ,,and ,,modern4 ,by ,j4 ,h4 ,wright #ch ,,the ,,mission2 or1 ,scenes in ,africa4 ,by ,capt4 ,marryatt4 #b vols4 #ge ,,story ,,of ,a ,,genius #ch ,,novels ,,and ,,tales4 ,,corbould',s ,history and ,adventures of ,margaret ,catchpole4 #hvo4 #b ,plates4 #be cts4 ,,don ,,quixotte de la ,mancha4 ,translated from the ,spanish4 ,illustrated with #ah ,steel ,engravings4 #afmo1 cloth4 #a #ej4 ,,dumas' ,marguerite de ,valois4 ,a ,novel4 #hvo4 #be cts4 ,,ellen ,,middleton4 ,a ,tale4 ,by ,lady ,fullerton4 #abmo4 #ge cts4 ,,friends ,,and ,,fortune4 ,a ,moral ,tale4 ,by ,miss ,dewey4 #abmo4 #ge cts4 ,,goldsmith',s ,vicar of ,wakefield4 ,illustrated4 #abmo4 #ge cts4 ,,grace ,,leslie4 ,a ,tale4 #abmo4 #ge cts4 ,,grantley ,,manor4 ,a ,tale4 ,by ,lady ,fullerton4 #abmo4 ,paper1 #ej cts4 cloth1 #ge cts4 ,,lady ,,alice2 or1 ,the ,new ,una4 #hvo4 ,paper1 #ch cts4 ,,lamartine',s ,les ,confidences et ,raphael4 #hvo4 #a4 ,,lamartine',s ,,confidential ,,disclosures4 #abmo4 #ej cts4 ,,lover',s 7,samuel7 ,handy ,andy4 #hvo4 ,paper1 #ej cts4 ---- s4 d4 ,treasure ,trove4 #hvo4 ,paper1 #be cts4 ,,mackintosh 7,m4 ,j47 ,two ,lives2 or1 ,to ,seem and ,to ,be4 #abmo4 ,paper1 #ej cts42 cloth1 #ge cts4 ---- ,aunt ,kitty's ,tales4 #abmo4 ,paper1 #ej cts42 cloth1 #ge cts4 ---- ,charms and ,counter ,charms4 ,paper1 #ge cts42 cloth1 #a4 ,,maxwell',s ,way-side and ,border ,sketches4 #hvo4 #be cts4 ----,fortunes of ,hector ,o',halloran4 #hvo4 #ej cts4 ,,manzoni4 ,the ,betrothed ,lovers4 #b vols4 #abmo4 #a #ej4 ,,maiden ,,aunt 7,the74 ,by ,s4 ,m4 #abmo4 #ge cts4 ,,sewell 7,miss74 ,amy ,herbert4 ,a ,tale4 #abmo4 ,paper1 #ej cts42 cloth1 #ge cts4 ---- ,gertrude4 ,a ,tale4 #abmo4 ,paper1 #ej cts42 cloth4 #ge cts4 ---- ,laneton ,parsonage4 #c vols4 #abmo4 ,paper1 #a #ej2 cloth1 #b #be4 ---- ,margaret ,percival1 #b vols4 ,paper1 #a2 cloth1 #a #ej4 ---- ,walter ,lorimer1 and other ,tales4 #abmo4 #ge cts4 ,,taylor1 7,general7 ,anecdote ,book1 ,letters1 c4 #hvo4 #be cts4 ,,zschokke4 ,incidents of ,social ,life4 #abmo4 #a4 ,,miniature ,,classical ,,library4 ,published in elegant form1 with ,frontispiece4 ,,poetical ,,lacon2 or ,aphorisms from the ,poets4 #ch cts4 ,,bond',s ,golden ,maxims4 #ca cts4 ,,clarke',s ,scripture ,promises4 ,complete4 #ch cts4 ,,elizabeth2 or the ,exiles of ,siberia4 #ca cts4 ,,goldsmith',s ,vicar of ,wakefield4 #ch cts4 ---- ,essays4 #ch cts4 ,,gems from ,american ,poets4 #ch cts4 ,,hannah ,,more',s ,private ,devotions4 #ca cts4 ---- ,practical ,piety4 #b vols4 #ge cts4 ,,hemans' ,domestic ,affections4 #ca cts4 ,,hoffman',s ,lays of the ,hudson1 c4 #ch cts4 ,,johnson',s ,history of ,rasselas4 #ch cts4 ,,manual of ,matrimony4 #ca cts4 ,,moore',s ,lallah ,rookh4 #ch cts4 ---- ,melodies4 ,complete4 #ch cts4 ,,paul and ,virginia4 #ca cts4 ,,pollok',s ,course of ,time4 #ch cts4 ,,pure ,gold from the ,rivers of ,wisdom4 #ch cts4 ,,thomson',s ,seasons4 #ch cts4 ,,token of the ,heart4--,do4 of ,affection4--,do4 of ,remembrance4--,do4 of ,friendship4--,do4 of ,love2 each4 #ca cts4 ,,useful ,letter ,writer4 #ch cts4 ,,wilson',s ,sacra ,privata4 #ca cts4 ,young's ,night ,thoughts4 #ch cts4 ,d4 ,appleton ,co's ,publications4 ,,religious ,,works4 ,,arnold',s ,rugby ,school ,sermons #ej ,,anthon',s ,catechism on the ,homilies #jf ,,anthon',s ,easy ,catechism for ,young ,children #jf ,a ,,kempis4 ,of the ,imitation of ,christ #ge ,,burnet',s ,history of the ,reformation4 ,edited by ,dr4 ,nares4 #bc ,portraits4 #d vols4 #f #jj ,do4 ,cheap edition4 #c vols4 #b #ej ,,burnet on the ,thirty-nine ,articles4 ,best edition #b #jj ,,beaven',s ,help to ,catechising4 ,edited by ,dr4 ,anthon #jf ,,bradley',s ,parochial and ,practical ,sermons4 #d vols4 in #a #b #jj ,,cruden',s ,concordance to the ,new ,testament #ej ,,cotter4 ,the ,romish ,mass and ,rubrics4 ,translated #ch ,,christmas ,bells and other ,poems #ej ,,coit1 ,dr4 ,puritanism ,reviewed #a #jj ,,evans' ,rectory of ,valehead #ej ,,faber on the ,doctrine of ,election #a #ej ,,four ,,gospels1 arranged as a ,practical ,family ,commentary for ,every ,day in the ,year4 #hvo4 ,illustrated #b #jj ,,fosters' ,essay on ,christian ,morals #ej ,,gresley',s ,portrait of an ,english ,churchman #ej ,,gresley',s ,,treatise on ,preaching #a #be ,,hook4 ,the ,cross of ,christ2 ,meditations on our ,saviour #ej ,,hooker',s ,complete ,works4 ,edited by ,keble4 #b vols4 #d #ej ,,ives1 ,bishop4 ,sermons4 #afmo4 #ej ,,jarvis4 ,reply to ,milner's ,end of ,controversy4 #abmo4 #ge ,,keble',s ,christian ,year1 handsomely printed #ge ,,kingsley',s ,sacred ,choir #ge ,,layman',s ,lesson to a ,lord ,bishop on ,sacerdotal ,powers4 #abmo4 #be ,,lyra ,apostolica4 #ahmo4 #ej ,,marshall',s ,notes on ,episcopacy4 ,edited by ,wainwright #a #jj ,,manning on the ,unity of the ,church4 #afmo4 #ge ,,magee on ,atonement and ,sacrifice4 #b vols4 #hvo4 #e #jj ,,morell',s ,philosophy of ,religion4 #abmo4 #a #be ,,mochler',s ,symbolics4 #hvo4 #b #be ,,newman',s ,sermons on ,subjects of the ,day #a #jj ,,newman',s ,essay on ,christian ,doctrine4 #hvo4 ,paper cover1 #be cts42 cloth #ej ,,ogilby',s ,lectures on the ,church4 #afmo4 #ej ,,ogilby on ,lay ,baptism4 #abmo4 #ej ,,paget',s ,tales of the ,village4 #c vols4 #afmo4 #a #be ,,palmer on the ,church4 ,edited by ,bishop ,whittingham4 #b vols4 #e #jj ,,pearson on the ,creed4 ,edited by ,dobson4 #hvo4 #b #jj ,,pulpit ,cyclopdia and ,minister's ,companion4 #hvo41 #fjj pp41 #b #ej2 sheep #b #ge ,,psalter1 7,the7 or ,psalms of ,david1 pointed for chanting4 ,edited by ,dr4 ,muhlenberg4 #abmo41 #ch;c42 sheep #ej ,,southard1 ,the ,mystery of ,godliness4 #hvo4 #ge ,,sketches and ,skeletons of #ejj ,sermons4 ,by the ,author of ,the ,pulpit ,cyclopdia4 #hvo4 #b #ej ,,spencer',s ,christian ,instructed #a #jj ,,sherlock',s ,practical ,christian #ga ,,spincke',s ,manual of ,private ,devotion #ga ,,sutton',s ,disce ,vivere1 ,learn to ,live4 #afmo4 #ge ,,swartz4 ,letters to my ,godchild4 #cbmo4 #ch ,,trench',s ,notes on the ,miracles #a #ge ,,taylor',s ,golden ,grove #ej ,,taylor',s ,holy ,living and ,dying #a #jj ,,taylor',s ,episcopacy ,asserted and ,maintained #ge ,,wilberforce',s ,manual for ,communicants #ch ,,wilson',s ,lectures on ,colossians4 #abmo4 #ge ,,wilson',s ,sacra ,privata4 #afmo4 #ge ,,whiston',s ,constitution of the ,holy ,apostles1 including the ,canons4 ,translated by ,doctor ,chase #hvo4 #b #ej ,,wyatt',s ,christian ,altar #ch ,,book ,,of ,,common ,,prayer4 ,new ,standard ,edition4 ,the ,book of ,common ,prayer and ,administration of the ,sacraments and other ,rites and ,ceremonies of the ,church1 according to the use of the ,protestant ,episcopal ,church in the ,united ,states of ,america1 together with the ,psalter or ,psalms of ,david4 ,illustrated with ,steel ,engravings by ,overbeck1 and a finely illuminated title-page1 in various elegant bindings4 ,five different sizes4 ,,lamartine',s ,,last ,,work4 99 99 99 99 99 ,d4 ,appleton ,co4 have recently published1 ,,les ,,confidences4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,confidential ,,disclosures1 ,,or ,,memoirs ,,of ,,my ,,youth1 ,,by ,,alphonse ,,de ,,lamartine1 ,,author ,,of ,,the ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,girondists1 ,,etc4 ,translated from the ,french1 ,,by ,,eugene ,,plunkett4 ,one volume #abmo4 ,paper cover #be cents4 ,cloth #ej cents4 ,this volume might well open with the beautiful introductory sentence in ,johnson ,rasselas1 ,ye who listen with credulity to the whispers of fancy1 or pursue with eagerness the phantoms of hope2 who expect that age will perform the promises of youth1 or that the deficiencies of the present day will be supplied by the morrow--give ear6 ,it is a remarkable and most attractive book4 ,the circumstances under which it has been given to the world are detailed in a ,preface in a manner to enlist our sympathies1 and to bring ,lamartine before us as a confiding friend1 narrating the scenes and events of his youth1 not as an idle tale1 nor to indulge egotism1 but to convey some of the best lessons for the mind and heart4 ,his description of the home of his youth1 and shepherd employment2 his portrait of his mother who was the idol of her children and her husband--if an object of such pure affection and worth can be called an idol2 the ,italian peasant girl ,graziella2 the young ,aymon de ,varien1 who passed through skepticism to faith in ,god2 are passages that we have read with absorbing interest4 ,we understand ,lamartine better1 and respect him more1 for the use he has made of the discipline of life1 nay1 even of his youthful transgressions4 ,it is possible that to some there may appear a tragic affectation here and there1 but we see beneath it the most genuine feeling1 and only a somewhat cold ,new ,englander would find fault with the mode in which the feeling has expressed itself4--,boston ,courier4 ,although this work is called ',confidential ,disclosures1' it evidently tells neither the whole truth nor nothing but the truth4 ,it is1 however1 none the less agreeable on that account2 glowing and beautiful as is the coloring through which the reader looks on the illuminated pages of that author's youth and early love1 he can easily pardon the enthusiasm1 by turns joyous and melancholy1 from which it sprung4 ,to one whose love of ,nature is something more than a feeling--whose passion for every form of external beauty1 joined to a pure and lofty imagination1 gives a vital spirit and sympathy to every thing on which he looks1 the language of this volume is not extravagant1 nor are its glowing and oft repeated descriptions of mere scenery wearisome4 ,it is a work whose brilliancy all will admire1 but whose true feeling will be appreciated by the imaginative only4 ,the scenes of the poet's childhood--his free life on the hills of ,burgundy--his ramble in the ,jura and among the ,alps of ,savoy--his ,ossianic attachment for a young girl1 whose tower he watched from the heights and whom he addressed in poetic rhapsodies about the harp of ,morven and the ghosts of ,cromla--are all described with exquisite poetic frankness4 ,the episode of ,graziella1 though it is impossible to say how much truth there is in its details1 is the finest thing in the book1 and perhaps the best thing ,lamartine has ever written4 ,it is a picture which will be read and remembered1 even should its framework fall into decay4 ,the translating of this edition is well done1 and the original of several poems introduced in the work is judiciously given in an appendix4--,journal of ,commerce4 ,d4 ,a4 ,co4 ,,also ,,publish ,,in ,,the ,,original ,,french1 ,,les ,,confidences ,,et ,,raphael1 ,,par ,m4 ,,de ,,lamartine4 ,one volume #hvo4 ,price #a4 ,,books ,,for ,,family ,,reading1 ,published by ,d4 ,appleton ,company4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,mrs4 ,,ellis',s ,,new ,,works4 ,i4 ,,social ,,distinctions2 ,,or1 ,,hearts ,,and ,,homes4 ,by ,,mrs4 ,,ellis1 ,author of ,the ,women of ,england c4 ,this work should find a place in every family2 it is one of the best productions of this excellent writer1 full of deep and touching interest1 and urging lessons of great practical importance4 ,,ii4 ,,prevention ,,better ,,than ,,cure2 ,,or ,,the ,,moral ,,wants ,,of ,,the ,,world ,,we ,,live ,,in4 ,by ,,mrs4 ,,ellis4 #a vol4 #abmo4 ,price #ej cts4 paper cover1 #ge cts4 cloth4 ,we can safely recommend the book to mothers and daughters who would prize useful hints on the conduct of life1 and practical directions for self-management4--,christian ,enquirer4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,miss ,m',,intosh',s ,,works4 ,i4 ,,charms ,,and ,,counter-,,charms4 ,by ,,maria4 ,j4 ,m',,intosh1 ,author of ,conquest and ,self ,conquest1 ,praise and ,principle1 c4 ,complete in one handsome volume1 #abmo41 cloth #a2 or in two parts1 paper1 #ge cts4 ,this work will be found one of the most impressive and beautiful tales of the day4 ,the moral is felicitously developed1 and is true in thought and feeling4 ,,ii4 ,,two ,,lives2 ,,or1 ,,to ,,seem ,,and ,,to ,,be4 ,by ,,maria ,j4 ,m',,intosh4 #a vol4 #abmo41 paper cover #ej cts41 cloth #ge cts4 ,the previous works of ,miss ,m',intosh1 although issued anonymously1 have been popular in the best sense of the word4 ,the simple beauty of her narratives1 combining pure sentiment with high principle1 and noble views of life and its duties1 ought to win for them a hearing at every fireside in our land4 ,we have rarely perused a tale more interesting and instructive than the one before us1 and we commend it most cordially to the attention of all our readers4--,prot4 ,churchman4 ,,iii4 ,,aunt ,,kitty',s ,,tales4 ,by ,,maria ,j4 ,m',,intosh4 ,a new edition1 complete in one vol41 #abmo41 cloth #ge cts4 ,this volume contains the following interesting stories3 ,blind ,alice1 ,jessie ,graham1 ,florence ,arnott1 ,grace and ,clara1 ,ellen ,leslie1 or ,the ,reward of ,self-,control4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,miss ,,sewell',s ,,works4 ,i4 ,,margaret ,,percival3 ,a ,,tale4 ,edited by the ,,rev4 ,,wm4 ,,sewell1 ,b4,a44 #b vols41 #abmo41 paper cover #a1 cloth #a #ej4 ,,ii4 ,,gertrude3 ,a ,,tale4 ,edited by the ,,rev4 ,,wm4 ,,sewell1 ,b4,a44 #abmo41 cloth #ge cts1 paper cover #ej cts4 ,,iii4 ,,amy ,,herbert3 ,a ,,tale4 ,edited by the ,,rev4 ,,wm4 ,,sewell1 ,b4,a4 #a vol4 #abmo41 cloth #ge cts41 paper cover #ej cts4 ,,iv4 ,,laneton ,,parsonage3 ,a ,,tale4 ,edited by the ,,rev4 ,,wm4 ,,sewell1 ,b4 ,a44 #c vols4 #abmo41 cloth #b #be1 paper cover #a #ej4 ,,interesting ,,books ,,for ,,ladies ,published by ,d4 ,appleton ,company4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,ellen ,,middleton2 ,a ,,tale4 ,,by ,,lady ,,georgiana ,,fullerton4 ,one volume #abmo41 paper cover #ej c41 cloth #ge c4 ,,by ,,the ,,same ,,author1 ,,grantley ,,manor2 ,a ,,tale4 ,one volume #abmo41 paper cover #ej cents1 cloth #ge cents4 ,lady ,georgiana ,fullerton's first appearance as a novelist rendered her famous at once4 ,ellen ,middleton1 her first production1 was a powerfully constructed story1 manifesting great ability in the author1 which ,grantley ,manor fully confirms4 ,we commend the book most cordially4--,evening ,mirror4 ,the book is an excellent one1 and the ,lady ,georgiana's style is admirable4 ,it is clear1 concise1 glowing1 and lady-like4 ,her dialogue and narrative likewise show great skill in perception and arrangement4--,boston ,atlas4 ,grantley ,manor is the title of an exceedingly interesting volume1 which we have read with more than ordinary pleasure4 ,the style is elegant1 the story1 which involves a succession of mysteries and cross purposes1 is well developed1 and the scene and character painting is full of spirit and truth4 ,the authoress is certainly a woman of genius1 which she has used to excellent purpose4--,southern ,literary ,messenger4 ,,friends ,,and ,,fortune2 ,a ,,moral ,,tale4 ,,by ,,anne ,,harriet ,,drury4 ,one volume #ab mo4 paper cover #ej cents1 cloth #ge cents4 ,it is a tale delightfully told1 and abounding in passages of great feeling and beauty4 ,again we are reminded of ,goldsmith1 and that which reminds us in a right sense of the ,vicar of ,wakefield must be a production of no mean order4--,literary ,gazette4 ,life1 motion1 delicacy1 and humor are to be found in ,miss ,drury's ,tale4--,atheneum4 ,,grace ,,leslie2 ,a ,,tale4 ,from the last ,london ,edition4 ,one volume #abmo41 cloth #ge cents4 ,simplicity is the charm of this story4 ,it can scarcely be said to have a plot4 ,the tale embraces the history of a month in the life of a young girl suddenly thrown into society1 and for young people it was originally written4 ,it has been generally popular1 however1 for every thing in it is natural4 ,there is neither sameness nor tameness in the narrative2 the characters are numerous1 and each is kept distinct4 ,moreover1 the moral of the story is unexceptionable4--,com4 ,adv4 ,,walter ,,lorimer2 ,,and ,,other ,,tales4 ,,by ,,the ,,author ,,of ,,amy ,,herbert1 ,,gertrude1 ,,etc4 ,embellished with six colored ,plates4 #a vol4 #abmo41 cloth1 #ge cts4 ,there is much that is pure1 sweet and touching in the book1 99 99 99 the stories are presented in a style of composition which makes the work one of high literary character4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,this entirely new system of making coffee has never yet been introduced to the public1 and was found out by the author of this work through the following circumstance3 ,whilst travelling by night in a railway train1 and arriving in due time at the station1 where positively no less than five minutes are allowed to restore exhausted nature1 after a long and tedious journey1 and then1 by using a certain portion of manual strength1 to push through the crowd to get at what is called the refreshment room1 after waiting for nearly two minutes for my turn to be served with some of the boiling liquid which they called coffee1 being as bad as any human being could possibly make it1 having probably waited patiently by the side of a winter's fire until the last train made its appearance1 it tasted anything but palatable2 but having a long journey before me1 and requiring something to eat and drink1 ,i was obliged to put up with it2 but before ,i could even partake of half1 or finish masticating some stale toast or over-buttered muffin1 the unsociable bell violently rung to acquaint the passengers that their appetites were perfectly satisfied1 though that incredulous organ would not let us believe it2 and every one being perfectly aware that railway trains1 like time1 wait for no one1 the hurry of which event1 though unpleasant1 made me escape the swallowing the thick part which was deposited at the bottom of the cup2 rushing out of the refreshment room1 ,i jumped into the wrong carriage1 the fidgetty train having changed its place1 and the time being too short to rectify the mistake1 ,i was obliged to make fresh acquaintance with my new compagnons de voyage1 who happened to be as much dissatisfied with the steaming-hot refreshment as myself1 who had patronized the steaming ,mocha4 ,i was at last much pleased to find a wise man among my new travelling friends1 who said1 ,i never travel at night without being provided with a spirited companion2 and pulling out of his carpet-bag a small bottle and gutta-percha goblet of new invention1 we partook of a drop of the best eau de vie ,i had ever tasted1 which produced on me the pleasant sensation of being relieved of a very annoying pain4 ,grateful for his kindness1 and always desirous to improve the domestic comfort1 ,i told him1 in making myself known1 that1 as soon as ,i arrived at the ,reform ,club1 ,i would try several experiments to simplify the present method of making coffee2 and should ,i be successful in my researches1 ,i would forward him the receipt on my arrival in ,london4 ,i tried to find my first travelling friends1 who1 more unfortunate than myself1 got in their proper place1 and1 consequently1 did not meet with the spirited friend ,i did1 vowing they would never take any more coffee at night1 especially in a railway train4 ,having forwarded the receipt to my friend1 he1 after having tried it1 wrote me the following note3 ,,my ,,dear ,,sir1--,i have made an experiment of your new receipt for coffee1 which you have kindly forwarded to me1 and beg to acquaint you that ,i never recollect having lasted better4 ,yours1 c4 ,w4 ,c4 ,i do strongly advise my readers to give it a trial1 and recommend all providers of refreshment at railway stations not to make the coffee boiling hot1 but to keep the cafetire in a bain-marie1 which would avoid all the above inconvenience1 both as regards quality and heat4 #b ,some few years since1 having a great deal of writing to do within a certain time1 and which could not be done without employing the night as well as the day1 ,i partook of weak green tea1 with a little brandy1 sugar1 and lemon-juice in it1 as a beverage1 and1 with light food1 ,i was enabled to do with but eighteen hours' sleep from #h o'clock on ,monday morning to #e o'clock on the following ,sunday morning4 #c ,half veal and beef can be used2 or if no veal1 all beef4 #d ,see future ,letters4 #e ,foie gras de ,strasbourg4 #f ,this word is not found in dictionaries1 but is used by poulterers to denote that small piece of the lungs which is left in the bird4 #g ,the quantity of the meat and vegetable should pretty equally balance with each other2 after such a meal1 a man's appetite is perfectly satisfied1 and he is ready for an afternoon's work if required4 ,it also does not require the aid of any fire1 which we so ungratefully abhor in hot weather4 ,mr4 ,b4 very much approves of it once a week in summer4 #h ,to freeze quickly any description of ice the freezing-pot must be well set1 place it in the centre of the pail1 which must be large enough to give a space of four inches all round1 break up small twelve pounds of ice1 which put round at the bottom six inches in depth1 over which put two pounds of salt1 beat down tight with a rolling-pin1 then more ice1 then salt1 proceeding thus until within three inches of the top of your freezing-pot2 saltpetre mixed with the salt will facilitate it in freezing4 #i ,with regard to the wine1 that is a matter ,i leave entirely to ,mr4 ,b41 but his maxim is1 that the best is the cheapest4 #aj ,these should be served on dishes with a napkin4 99 99 99 99 99 ,typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber3 sauting that the butter sauting that the butter pg #ah littlle sat little salt pg #ci spoonfuls of dem-iglaze spoonfuls of demi-glaze pg #fh skimmer gently for two hours simmer gently for two hours pg #abg in every dry summers in very dry summers pg #aja ro plain melted butter or plain melted butter ,pg #ajd appiles to this applies to this pg #aca or mushoom or ,english or mushroom or ,english pg #adh ten minntes ten minutes ,pg #aej be broiled or sauted be broiled or sautd ,pg #ach plack pepper black pepper ,pg #bjf rice seperately rice separately ,pg #bae is for preferable is far preferable ,pg #bae delightful and varigated delightful and variegated ,pg #bed in which put your rise in which put your rice ,pg #bfg ,ribstone pippins ,ripstone pippins ,pg #bgc fire uutil becoming fire until becoming ,pg #bic shake sugar ever shake sugar over ,pg #cbd ,mr4 ,p4 is obliged to leave home every week day ,mr4 ,b4 is obliged to leave home every week day ,pg #ccf