file :i* includes ! orig9al             
illu/rations4       ,see #dahcj-;h4htm  
or #dahcj-;h4zip3                       
7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/ca*e_/epub_/
#dahcj_/pg#dahcj-;images4html7       or 
7https3_/_/www4gut5b]g4org_/files_/#dahc
j_/dahcj-;h4zip7         ,images ( !    
orig9al pages are available ?r\gh       
,int]net ,ar*ive_/,am]ican ,libr>ies4   
,see                                    
http3_/_/ar*ive4org_/details_/spell(fl&]
so#jjvose      ,,! ,,spell ,,( ,,fl&]s  
99       99       99       99       99  
,,! ,,spell ,,s]ies        ,ea* volume )
 "o or m color$ plates & _m             
illu/rations f orig9al draw+s or special
 photographs4      ,octavo1 ) decorative
 cov]1 gilt top1 box$4       ,p] volume 
#b4ej net1 c>riage paid #b4gj       ,,! 
,,spell ,,( ,,italy       ,by ,c>ol9e   
,atwat] ,mason       ,,! ,,spell ,,(    
,,france       ,by ,c>ol9e ,atwat]      
,mason       ,,! ,,spell ,,( ,,s\!rn    
,,%ores       ,by ,c>ol9e ,atwat] ,mason
       ,,! ,,spell ,,( ,,engl&       ,by

 ,julia de ,w4 ,addison       ,,!       
,,spell ,,( ,,holl&       ,by ,burton   
,e4 ,/ev5son       ,,! ,,spell ,,(      
,,switz]l&       ,by ,na?an ,haskell    
,dole       ,,! ,,spell ,,( ,,!         
,,italian ,,lakes       ,by ,william ,d4
 ,mc,crackan       ,,! ,,spell ,,(      
,,tyrol       ,by ,william ,d4          
,mc,crackan       ,,! ,,spell ,,(       
,,japan       ,by ,isabel ,&]son        
,,! ,,spell ,,( ,,spa9       ,by ,kei?  
,cl>k       ,,! ,,spell ,,( ,,fl&]s     
,by ,edw>d ,neville ,vose       ,,!     
,,spell ,,( ,,! ,,holy ,,l&       ,by   
,ar*ie ,bell        ,,! ,,page ,,company
       #ec ,,beacon ,,/reet1 ,,bo/on1   
,,mass4             99       99       99
       99       99  ,illu/ration3       
,ca!dral ( ,/4 ,sauveur1 ,bruges  7,see 
page #dg7   ,,! ,,spell ,,( ,,fl&]s  ,an
 ,outl9e ( ! ,hi/ory1 ,leg5ds & ,art (  
,belgium's ,fam\s ,nor!rn ,prov9ces     
,be+ ! /ory ( a ,tw5tie? ,c5tury        
,pilgrimage 9 a ,sixte5? ,c5tury ,l& j  
be=e ! ,outbreak ( ! ,great ,w>  by     

,,edw>d ,,neville ,,vose  ,illu/rat$    
,bo/on ,! ,page ,company ,,mdccccxv     
,copyright1 #aiae1 by ! ,page ,company  
,all rights res]v$  ,fir/ ,impression1  
,april1 #aiae  ,! ,colonial ,press  ,c4 
,h4 ,simonds ,company1 ,bo/on1 ,u4 ,s4  
,a4          ,to       ,,alb]t ,i41     
,k+ ( ! ,belgians1 ! guid+ /> ( a brave 
nation &      ! h]o ( ! ,battle ( ,fl&]s
 9 ! ,great ,w>1 ?is book      is       
d$icat$     ,,publi%]s' ,,note   ,"l    
,beaconsfield once said3 ,fl&]s has be5 
trodd5 by ! feet & wat]$ by ! blood (   
c\ntless g5]ations ( ,briti% soldi]s4   
,?is fam\s passage--:i* has receiv$ a   
new confirmation to-day--is typical ( _m
 ref]5ces among ,engli% writ]s & /atesm5
 to ,fl&]s z a g5]al t]m cov]+ all ( :at
 is n[ kn[n z ,belgium4 ,among ! citiz5s
 ( t brave little ,k+dom1 h[ev]1 & among
 mo/ ,cont95tal writ]s1 ,fl&]s is       
recognis$ z be+ ! "n ( only ! nor!rn "p 
( ,belgium4 ,small z t c\ntry is1 x has 
= c5turies be5 bi-l+ual1 ! nor!rn       
portion speak+ ,flemi%1 ! s\!rn ,fr5*2 &

 = c5turies ! hi/ory ( ! ,flemi%        
prov9ces 0 z di/9ct f t ( ! ,walloon    
prov9ce to ! s\?w>d z ! e>ly hi/ory (   
,cali=nia or ,texas 0 f t ( ,new ,engl&4
  ,al?\gh ev5tually unit$ "u "o         
,gov]nm5t ) ! ,walloons & ) :at is n[   
,holl&1 x 0 dur+ ! long p]iod ( _!      
semi-indep5d5ce t ! ,flem+s a*iev$ _m ( 
! arti/ic & ar*itectural monum5ts t h   
made ,fl&]s = all "t "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ 
regions 9 ! _w4  ,:ile ?is book1 !re=e1 
does n attempt to describe ! :ole (     
,belgium1 x does pres5t a p5 picture ( !
 nor!rn "p ( ! c\ntry z x exi/$ almo/ at
 ! mom5t :5 ! deva/at+ sc\rge ( ! ,great
 ,w> swept across x4     ,,=eword   ,?is
 book is ! record ( a vacation t\r 9 !  
beautiful old ,flemi% t[ns ( ,nor!rn    
,belgium beg9n+ 9 ,may & end+ 9 ,july ( 
! ,summ] ( #aiad4 ,! assass9ation ( !   
,au/rian ,ar*duke ,f]d9& & 8 wife at    
,s>ajevo took place :ile our little p>ty
 0 view+ ! m$ival h\ses & *ur*es ( ,gh5t
 & ,aud5a]de1 b 9 ! _m discussions ( t  
ev5t to :i* we li/5$ !re 0 no :isp] ( ! 

awful fate :i* ! m>* ( ev5ts 0 s soon to
 br+ ^u "o ( ! mo/ *>m+1 peaceful &     
happy c\ntries 9 ! _w4  ,_m ( !         
descriptions 9 ! foll[+ pages 7 writt5 9
 or ne> ! t[ns describ$1 & )9 a day or s
 aft] ! visit n>rat$4 ,!n ea* old       
,flemi% monum5t 0 9 z p]fect a /ate (   
pres]vation z ! rev]5t pride & c>e ( !  
,belgian populace & ! le>n$ & skilful   
re/orations ( ! ,belgian gov]nm5t c\ld  
toge!r accompli%4 ,! fact t s9ce ^!     
acc\nts 7 writt5 _m ( ^! v t[ns h be5   
swept by %ot & %ell1 h be5 tak5 & retak5
 by ho/ile armies1 h =m$ ! /age ^u :i*  
"s ( ! dire/ trag$ies ( ! _w's greate/ &
 mo/ t]rible w> h be5 enact$1 w--x is   
hop$--give !m a p]man5t int]e/ & value4 
,z a pa9t+ ( "s fam\s city z x appe>$ _m
 ye>s or c5turies ago is ( ! utmo/      
hi/orical int]e/1 ev5 ?\gh by an inf]ior
 arti/1 s ^! halt+ ^w pictures ( t[ns t 
h s9ce be5 :olly or p>tially de/roy$ may
 help ! read] to recall ! glories t h   
pass$ away4  ,9 accordance ) ! plan     
describ$ 9 ! fir/ *apt]1 ! t\r ( ,fl&]s 

foll[$ a decid$ly zigzag it9]>y1        
frequ5tly visit+ "s t[n m ?an once4 ,!  
purpose ( ?is 0 to foll[1 9 a fairly    
*ronological sequ5ce1 z f> z possible1 !
 developm5t ( ,flemi% hi/ory1           
ar*itecture & art4 ,! outl9e ( !        
int5sely fasc9at+ hi/ory ( ! old ,flemi%
 communes t has be5 ?us pres5t$ may     
prove ( int]e/ to _m read]s :o h be5    
?rill$ by ! sup]b brav]y ( ! little     
,belgian army 9 its def5ce ( ,fl&]s     
aga9/ ov]:elm+ odds4 ,z ^! glimpses into
 ! pa/ cle>ly %[1 ! m5 ( ,belgium h     
engag$ 9 a battle aga9/ =eign dom9ation 
f ! e>lie/ ages4 ,t x 0 at times a los+ 
/ruggle nev] = a mom5t dim9i%$ ! ard\r (
 _! resi/ance1 or ! dep? ( _! devotion  
to lib]ty & ! "r to rule !mselves4 ,& :5
 we consid] h[1 dur+ ^! c5turies (      
conflict1 & 9 defiance ( ob/acles t w\ld
 h daunt$ a less /rong-he>t$ p1 ! m5 (  
,fl&]s f\nd ! inspiration1 ! pati5ce & !
 skill to erect "s ( ! noble/ examples (
 m$ival ar*itecture1 to create a s*ool (
 pa9t+ t ranks z "o ( ! mo/ priceless   

h]itages ( ! ages1 & to excel 9 a half a
 score ( o!r l9es ( arti/ic endeav\r1 we
 surely mu/ all agree t "h is a p we    
w\ld n will+ly see p]i% f ! e>?4  ,if to
 be neutral is to /& by & sil5tly       
acquiesce 9 ! de/ruction ( ,belgium z an
 indep5d5t nation1 !n ! au?or ( ?is book
 is n neutral4 ,9 e fibre ( 8 be+ he    
prote/s aga9/ su* a c\rse z a crime     
aga9/ lib]ty1 aga9/ humanity4 ,happily1 
f e corn] ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates come        
unmi/akable evid5ces t ! ,am]ican p z a 
:ole are n1 at he>t1 neutral on ?is     
subject4 ,! embattl$ f>m]s :o /ood on ! 
bridge at ,concord & fir$ ! %ot he>d    
r\nd ! _w h ?rill$ ! imag9ation &       
/imulat$ ! patriotism ( e ,am]ican      
s*oolboy1 b no less h]oic is ! spectacle
 ( ! little ,belgian army "u ! p]sonal  
lead]%ip ( its noble ,k+ /&+ l a rock on
 ! la/ t9y /rip ( ,belgian soil & /opp+ 
! onru% ( ! mo/ p[]ful fight+           
organisation 9 ! _w4 ,at ,nieuport &    
,dixmude & along ! blood/a9$ ,ys]       
,canal1 ! m5 ( ,belgium f\ght = ! same  

cause ( lib]ty = :i* our =efa!rs f\ght  
at ,bunk] ,hill4 ,:atev] our sympa?ies  
may be ) respect to ! l>g] aspects ( !  
great _w w>--& z to ^! we may mo/       
prop]ly rema9 neutral--our national     
hi/ory & traditions1 ! v pr9ciples (    
gov]nm5t to :i* we owe all t we h & are1
 _c b confirm u 9 ! pr(\nd conviction t 
no conclusion to ?is w> c be j & "r1 or 
p]man5t1 t does n once m re/ore !       
,belgian nation & gu>antee t x %all     
rema9 completely & =ev] free4  ,on ! o!r
 h&1 :ile news ( ! damage done to "s    
fam\s ,flemi% *ur* or ,hotel de ,ville  
causes ! au?or s5sations ak9 to ^? t he 
w\ld exp]i5ce on le>n+ ( ! w\nd+ ( a    
fri5d1 ?is book w conta9 no compla9t    
reg>d+ ,g]man de/ruction ( ^! monum5ts (
 ar*itecture4 ,at ,ypres & ,mal9es1 :]e 
! havoc wr\ght _c fail to h be5 fe>ful1 
! damage 0 done 9 ! c\rse ( battles 9   
:i* ! mo/ p[]ful eng9es ( de/ruction ev]
 inv5t$ by man 7 us$ on bo? sides4 ,mu* 
z we may deplore ! results1 we _c blame 
! individual comm&]s4 ,at ,antw]p1      

,gh5t1 ,bruges & _m o!r fam\s ,flemi%   
cities ! ,g]mans appe> to h made e ef=t 
to avoid wanton de/ruction & pres]ve !  
mo/ notable hi/oric edifices4 ,aft] ! w>
 is ov] & we h le>n$ exactly :at        
/ructures h be5 de/roy$1 & "u :at       
circum/ances1 we c ju/ly place :atev]   
blame may atta* to su* a cata/rophe :]e 
x belongs--b n until !n4 ,= ! pres5t we 
c only hope t ! damage may be less ?an  
has be5 report$1 & t 9 _m in/ances x w  
be possible = ! ,belgians--s skilful 9 !
 "w ( re/oration--to recon/ruct !       
sections ( fam\s build+s t h be5 damag$4
  ,:5 ! w> is ov] _m ?\s&s ( ,am]icans &
 ,engli% w be eag] to visit !           
battle-fields ( ,fl&]s & see = !mselves 
! sc5es ( conflicts t w =ev] hold a     
great place 9 human hi/ory4 ,! au?or    
v5tures to hope t ?is little book may be
 f\nd s]viceable to su* t\ri/s z x      
conta9s mu* in=mation n to be f\nd 9 any
 guide book4 ,if x aids any ( !m--or any
 ( ! f> l>g] ho/ ( travell]s ^: j\rneys 
9 f>-(f l&s mu/ be made by _! home      

firesides--to und]/& ,fl&]s bett] x w h 
a*iev$ its purpose4 ,x is "o ( ! _m     
ironies ( ! w> t t[ns l ,ypres &        
,mal9es1 :i* 7 r>ely visit$ by ,am]ican 
t\ri/s :5 !y 7 9 _! p]fection1 w1 no    
d\bt1 be visit$ by ?\s&s n[ t ! cla% (  
arms has br\ght !m at ! same mom5t      
de/ruction & immortal fame4      ,,edw>d
 ,,neville ,,vose4         ,,cont5ts    
,,*apt]                                 
,,page             ,,publi%]s' ,,note   
vii             ,,=eword                
ix          ,i4 ,,introduc+ ,,fl&]s ,,& 
,,! ,,f\r ,,pilgrims                  #a
         ,,ii4 ,,vieux ,,bruges ,,&     
,,c\nt ,,baldw9 ,,( ,,! ,,iron ,,arm    
#ae        ,,iii4 ,,bruges ,,9 ,,!      
,,days ,,( ,,*>les ,,! ,,good           
#cj         ,,iv4 ,,h[ ,,bruges ,,became
 ,,! ,,v5ice ,,( ,,! ,,nor?             
#ed          ,v4 ,,dixmude ,,& ,,furnes 
#gh         ,,vi4 ,,nieuport ,,& ,,!    
,,ys] ,,canal                           
#id        ,,vii4 ,,:5 ,,ypres ,,0 ,a   
,,great] ,,city ,,?an ,,london          

#aaf       ,,viii4 ,,c\rtrai ,,& ,,!    
,,battle ,,( ,,! ,,spurs                
#adf         ,,ix4 ,,gh5t ,,9 ,,! ,,days
 ,,( ,,! ,,flemi% ,,c\nts               
#afi          ,x4 ,,! ,,age ,,:5 ,,gh5t 
,,0 ,,gov]n$ ,,by ,,its ,,guilds        
#aib         ,,xi4 ,,philip ,,! ,,good  
,,& ,,! ,,van ,,eycks                   
#bah        ,,xii4 ,,t\rnai1 ,,! ,,olde/
 ,,city ,,9 ,,belgium                   
#bdb       ,,xiii4 ,,?ree ,,c5turies ,,(
 ,,t\rnaisian ,,art                     
#bfh        ,,xiv4 ,,! ,,fall ,,(       
,,*>les ,,! ,,bold--,,meml+ ,,at        
,,bruges           #bhe         ,,xv4   
,,mal9es ,,9 ,,! ,,"t ,,( ,,m>g>et ,,(  
,,au/ria                #caa            
,,xvi4 ,,gh5t ,,"u ,,*>les ,,!          
,,fif?--,,& ,,s9ce                  #cdd
       ,,xvii4 ,,aud5a]de ,,& ,,m>g>et  
,,( ,,p>ma                          #cfg
      ,,xviii4 ,,old ,,antw]p--,,its    
,,hi/ory ,,& ,,leg5ds                   
#cic        ,,xix4 ,,?ree ,,c5turies ,,(
 ,,antw]p ,,pr9t]s                      

#daa         ,,xx4 ,,antw]p ,,f ,,! ,,"t
 ,,( ,,rub5s ,,till ,,to-,,day          
#dch        ,,xxi4 ,,:]e ,,mod]n ,,fl&]s
 ,,%9es--,,o/5de ,,& ,,la ,,plage       
#dfd       ,,xxii4 ,,! ,,spell ,,(      
,,fl&]s                                 
#dhj             ,,bibliography         
#dhe             ,,index                
#dhi         ,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations   
,,page     ,,ca!dral ,,( ,,/4 ,,sauveur1
 ,,bruges 79 full col\r7     7,see page 
#dg7                                    
,frontispiece      ,,map ,,( ,,belgium  
,,& ,,! ,,ne!rl&s1     ,,%[+ ,,! ,,old  
,,flemi% ,,pr9cipality                  
fac+ #a      ,b,,gu9age ,,bridge1       
,,bruges                                
#ce      ,,tomb ,,( ,,m>ie ,,(          
,,burgundy1 ,,*ur* ,,( ,,notre ,,dame1  
,,bruges           #ea      ,,palais    
,,du ,,franc1 ,,bruges 79 full col\r7   
#ei      ,,! ,,belfry1 ,,bruges         
#fc      ,,! ,,m9newat]1 ,,bruges       
#ga      ,,%rimp ,,fi%]m51 ,,coxyde     
#ic      ,,t[] ,,( ,,! ,,templ>s1       

,,nieuport                              
#ii      ,,an ,,anci5t ,,pa9t+ ,,( ,,!  
,,flemi% ,,k]messe ,,by ,,t5i]s         
#aae      ,,clo? ,,hall1 ,,ypres        
#aai      ,,hotel ,,m]ghelynck1 ,,ypres 
#aci      ,,*ur* ,,( ,,/4 ,,pet]1       
,,ypres                                 
#ada      ,,/atue ,,( ,,pet] ,,de       
,,con9ck ,,& ,,john ,,breidel1 ,,bruges 
#aed      ,,ca/le ,,( ,,! ,,c\nts1      
,,gh5t                                  
#agj      ,,ru9s ,,( ,,! ,,abbey ,,(    
,,/4 ,,bavon1 ,,gh5t                    
#ahd      ,,po/ ,,(fice1 ,,*ur* ,,( ,,/4
 ,,ni*olas1 ,,belfry ,,&     ,,ca!dral1 
,,gh5t                                  
#aie      ,,de ,,dulle ,,griete1 ,,gh5t 
#bjh      ,,workroom1 ,,petit ,b,,gu9age
 ,,de ,,notre ,,dame1 ,,gh5t            
#baj      ,,s++ ,,angels1 ,,f ,,!       
,,adoration ,,( ,,!     ,,lamb--,,jean  
,,van ,,eyck                            
#bcf      ,,george ,,van ,,d] ,,paele1  
,,canon ,,( ,,/4 ,,donatian1            
,,wor%ipp+ ,,! ,,madonna--,,jean ,,van  

,,eyck 79 full col\r7       #bci        
,,g5]al ,,view ,,( ,,t\rnai ,,& ,,!     
,,five-,,t[]$ ,,ca!dral           #bef  
,,! ,,belfry1 ,,t\rnai                  
#bfb      ,a ,,tripty* ,,( ,,! ,,sev5   
,,sacram5ts ,,by ,,rogi] ,,van ,,d]     
,,weyd5      #bgb      ,,%r9e ,,( ,,/4  
,,ursula1 ,,hospital ,,( ,,/4 ,,jean1   
,,bruges               #bif      ,,an   
,,illum9ation ,,by ,,ghe]h>dt ,,david   
,,( ,,bruges1     #adih2 ,,/4 ,,b>b>a 79
 full col\r7                            
#cjj      ,,! ,,la/ ,,supp]--,,?i]ry    
,,b\ts                                  
#cjg      ,,quai ,,v]t1 ,,bruges        
#caj      ,,ca!dral ,,( ,,/4 ,,rombaut1 
,,mal9es                                
#cab      ,,t[] ,,( ,,! ,,ca!dral ,,(   
,,/4 ,,rombaut1 ,,f     ,,! ,,ruelle    
,,sans ,,f9                             
#cah      ,,9 ,,het ,,p>adijs ,,&       
,,maison ,,des ,,diables2 ,,two         
,,fifte5?     ,,c5tury ,,h\ses1 ,,mal9es
                                        
#ccc      ,,portrait ,,( ,,jean         

,,arnolf9i ,,& ,,8 ,,wife ,,by ,,jean   
,,van ,,eyck                            
#cdj      ,,maison ,,de ,,la ,,keure1   
,,hotel ,,de ,,ville1 ,,gh5t            
#cdg      ,,portrait ,,( ,,! ,,duke ,,( 
,,alva ,,by ,a4 ,,moro                  
#ceb      ,,! ,,adoration ,,( ,,!       
,,%eph]ds--,,hugo ,,van ,,d] ,,goes     
#cfb      ,,old ,,guild ,,h\ses1 ,,quai 
,,aux ,,h]bes1 ,,gh5t                   
#cfe      ,,hotel ,,de ,,ville1         
,,aud5a]de                              
#cgj      ,,wood5 ,,doorway1 ,,c>v$ ,,by
 ,,van ,,d] ,,s*eld51     ,,hotel ,,de  
,,ville1 ,,aud5a]de                     
#cge      ,,*ur* ,,( ,,/e4 ,,walburge1  
,,aud5a]de                              
#chc      ,a ,,flemi% ,,tape/ry ,,( ,,! 
,,fifte5? ,,c5tury                      
#chf      ,,! ,,vielle ,,b\*]ie1        
,,antw]p                                
#cii      ,,! ,,bank] ,,& ,,8           
,,wife--,,matsys                        
#djc      ,,w9t]--,,pet] ,,breughel     
#dje      ,,dragg+ ,,! ,,/atue ,,( ,,!  

,,duke ,,( ,,alva ,,?r\gh     ,,!       
,,/reets ,,( ,,antw]p--,c4 ,,v]lat      
#dah      ,,c\rty>d ,,( ,,! ,,plant9    
,,museum1 ,,antw]p                      
#dbh      ,,anci5t ,,pr9t+ ,,presses ,,&
 ,,compos+ ,,cases1     ,,plant9        
,,museum1 ,,antw]p                      
#dcf      ,,! ,,desc5t ,,f ,,!          
,,cross--,,rub5s                        
#dci      ,,c\p ,,de ,,lance--,,rub5s   
#ddb      ,,la ,,vi]ge ,,au             
,,p]roquet--,,rub5s                     
#dde      ,,pet] ,,paul ,,rub5s         
#ddh      ,,z ,,! ,,old ,,birds ,,s+ ,,!
 ,,"y ,,birds ,,pipe--,,jacob           
,,jorda5s                               
#dec      ,,hotel ,,de ,,ville1 ,,antw]p
                                        
#def      ,,! ,,salle ,,des ,,jeux1 ,,9 
,,! ,,kursaal ,,o/5de                   
#dgf   ,illu/ration3 ,,map ,,( ,,belgium
 ,,& ,,! ,,ne!rl&s1 ,,%[+ ,,! ,,old     
,,flemi% ,,pr9cipality     ,,! ,,spell  
,,( ,,fl&]s     ,,*apt] ,i  ,,introduc+ 
,,fl&]s ,,& ,,! ,,f\r ,,pilgrims        

,fl&]s6 ,:y1 :]e is ,fl&]s8  ,!re6 ,i   
told y %e'd ask t "q4 ,y'll h to />t "r 
at ! beg9n+ ) h]1 & expla9 ev]y?+ z y g 
along4  ,we 7 plann+ our next vacation  
t\r 9 ,europe1 :i* we _h long be=e agre$
 to d toge!r ?is ye>4 ,t meant a p>ty ( 
f\r--! ,pr(essor1 z ,i always call$ him1
 & 8 *>m+ "y wife1 my wife1 & myself4 ,l
 ! plays 9 :i* ! *>act]s appe> on ! /age
 9 ! ord] t _! names are pr9t$ on !     
programme1 ! arrangem5t ,i h j giv5 is  
significant4 ,! ,pr(essor is always     
fir/1 a born lead]-(-!-way4 ,& ,i am    
usually la/1 c>ry+ ! heavy bundles4  ,n 
t ,i am compla9+4 ,no d\bt ,i 0 born to 
d x4 ,moreov]1 ! ,pr(essor & ,i h be5   
*ums s9ce boyhood4 ,we work$ our way    
?r\gh prep s*ool & college toge!r1 came 
to ,new ,york toge!r1 &--9 a mode/      
way--h prosp]$ toge!r4 ,at lea/1 we felt
 prosp]\s en\gh to ?9k ( go+ to ,europe4
 ,= "s ye>s he has be5 ! head ( !       
dep>tm5t ( hi/ory 9 an important        
educational in/itution )9 ! b\nd>ies ( !
 great] city1 :ile ,i h devot$ myself to

 j\rnalism--& am !re=e dubb$ ! ,editor1 
:5ev] he wi%es to ref] to me z a        
p]sonage in/ead ( a human be+1 :i*1     
happily1 is n v (t54 ,( ! two ladies 9 !
 propos$ p>ty ,i d n ne$ to speak--n    
because !re is no?+ to say1 b because !y
 c speak = !mselves4 ,9 fact1 "o ( !m   
has j spok51 has ask$ a "q1 & x has n   
yet be5 answ]$4  ,fl&]s1 my de>1 said ! 
,pr(essor1 speak+ 9 8 mo/ s5t5ti\s      
mann]--z if deliv]+ a lecture 9 8       
classroom--is ! mo/ int]e/+ & ! lea/    
visit$ corn] ( ,europe4 ,x has m        
battle-fields & m ,go?ic *ur*es p] squ>e
 mile ?an c be f\nd any:]e else4 ,9 o!r 
p>ts ( ,europe y c see m$ival h\ses1 "h 
& !re--usually 9 *>ge ( a smirk+        
c>etak]1 ) 8 little guidebook = sale1 & 
hungrily anticipat+ 8 little fee4 ,9    
,fl&]s !re are :ole /reets ( !m1 :ole   
t[ns t date f ! sixte5? c5tury or       
e>li]--b = ! co/umes ( ! p1 y c\ld      
easily imag9e y\rself transport$ by "s  
en*antm5t back to ! days ( ,*>les !     
,bold1 or ev5 to ! "t ( ! ,crusad]s4    

,yes1 ,i add$1 & !re is no region 9 ! _w
 :]e ! hi/ory ( ! pa/ seems m real1 m   
in/9ct ) ! emotions t gov]n human       
conduct to-day1 ?an ^! qua9t old ,flemi%
 t[ns4 ,y /& 9 front ( a m>ble skyscrap]
 on ,fif? ,av5ue & read a bronze tablet 
t tells y t "h ! ,revolution>y =ces "u  
old ,colonel ,putnam1 or :oev] x 01     
delay$ ! advanc+ ,briti% & cov]$ ,g5]al 
,wa%+ton's retreat4 ,n[1 does t tablet  
help y to recon/ruct y\r hi/ory8 ,no1 y 
are q aw>e t ! fight took place :5 ,fif?
 ,av5ue 0 op5 c\ntry1 b y\r imag9ation w
 n "w :5 y try to make x picture t sc5e 
= y "r !re on ,fif? ,av5ue :]e ! tablet 
says x happ5$4  ,n[1 x's diff]5t 9      
,fl&]s4 ,y read 9 ! hi/ory ab\t h[ !    
burgh]s ( ,bruges1 :5 ! ,duke (         
,burgundy1 ,philip ! ,good1 tri$ to     
ov]awe ! city by plac+ an army ( ar*]s 9
 ! m>ket-place1 sw>m$ out ( _! h\ses &  
d[n ! n>r[1 crook$ /reets l s _m angry  
bees4 ,!re are ! same old h\ses1 !      
id5tical n>r[1 crook$ /reets--a bit ( an
 ef=t & y c picture x all--& h[ ! ,duke 

& 8 ar*]s 7 driv5 back & back1 :ile !   
burgh]s sw>m$ 9 ev] increas+ numb]s1 & !
 great tocs9 9 ! belfry %riek$ & clang$ 
to tell ! valiant weav]s t _! lib]ties 7
 9 dang]4  ,& take t o!r fam\s ev5t1 :5 
!y flung ! murd]]s ( ,c\nt ,*>les !     
,good--:o liv$ & di$ five hundr$ ye>s   
be=e ! o!r ,pr9ce :o1 l him1 0 surnam$ !
 ,good--f ! t[] ( ! v ca!dral 9 :i* !y  
_h murd]$ him4 ,:y1 y c climb ! t[] &   
look (f across ! same sea ( r$-ro($     
h\ses & d[n ^u ! same squ>e1 pav$ )     
cruelly jagg$ /ones1 z did ! condemn$ m5
 :51 "o by "o1 !y 7 l$ to ! edge ( !    
p>apet & s5t hurtl+ d[n4  ,! po9t is    
well tak51 int]rupt$ ! ,pr(essor1 only t
 p>ticul> *ur* is no long] /&+--x 0     
de/roy$ dur+ ! ,fr5* ,revolution4 ,b    
really t makes little diff]5ce--!re are 
pl5ty ( o!r t[]s 9 ,bruges t h witness$ 
/irr+ sc5es4 ,& all ov] ,fl&]s x is !   
same way--no?+ is easi] ?an to make y\r 
hi/ory live aga91 = ev]y:]e y h !       
orig9al sett+ practically un*ang$4  ,x's
 all v well = y m51 obs]v$ ,mrs4        

,pr(essor1 :5 h] husb& & ,i paus$ to get
 our brea?1 :o admire1 or pret5d to     
admire1 battles & executions & t sort ( 
?+1 b if !re is no?+ else to see except 
places ) su* dreadfully unpleasant      
associations ,i1 = "o1 don't want to g  
!re4  ,on ! contr>y1 ,i ha/5$ to reply1 
see+ t ! ,pr(essor 0 mu* di/urb$ at ?is 
unexpect$ result ( all our eloqu5ce1    
,fl&]s has a lot ( ?+s to int]e/ !      
ladies4 ,?9k ( its fam\s laces &        
lacemak]s--we c /ill f9d ! latt] at "w 9
 places l ,bruges1 ,mal9es & ,turnh\t--(
 its r>e old tape/ries f ,aud5a]de &    
,t\rnai1 & ! f9e l95s ( ,c\rtrai4 ,!n   
!re are wood c>v+s ! l ( :i* y w travel 
f> to see1 & old ,flemi% furniture      
ev]y:]e4  ,to say no?+ ( ! pleasure (   
le>n+ a little m ab\t ! great ,flemi%   
s*ool ( art 9 ! v home t[ns ( its mo/   
celebrat$ arti/s1 add$ ! ,pr(essor1 :o 0
 mu* elat$ to see t ! fr[ns 7 leav+ !   
fair face ( 8 bett] half4  ,t's mu*     
bett]1 %e ann\nc$4 ,i've always ?\ght   
f9e h&-made lace ! mo/ wond]ful product 

( fem99e pati5ce & skill1 & ,i %\ld     
c]ta9ly love to wat* !m make x4  ,= my  
"p1 rem>k$ ! f\r? memb] ( ! p>ty1 :o _h 
be5 /rangely sil5t dur+ all ?is         
discussion1 :ile ,i l to le>n a little  
ab\t ! hi/ory ( ! old t[ns ,i visit1 &  
see ! f9e ?+s--:e!r pa9t+s1 or          
t[n-halls1 or lace or tape/ry--= :i* !y 
are fam\s1 :at ,i l ! be/ is to /udy ! p
 !mselves4 ,i mean ! live ones1 n ^? :o 
are dead & gone t our husb&s are talk+  
ab\t4 ,i love to sit on ! sidewalk on   
pleasant ev5+s & h d9n] & black c(fee   
:ile wat*+ ! p ( ! t[n g by4 ,x's bett] 
?an a play4 ,& on ra9y days !re is      
always "s qua9t old-fa%ion$ inn or caf  
:]e ! :ole sc5e looks l a pa9t+ by      
,jorda5s or ,t5i]s4 ,! beam$ ceil+ & !  
pictures on ! walls are grimy ) ! smoke 
& /eam ( c\ntless d9n]s1 ! buxom l&lady 
sits 9 /ate beh9d an array ( bottles (  
all sizes & col\rs & labell$ at all     
prices1 h] equally plump daught]s wait  
on ! tables1 ! v gue/s--includ+         
ourselves--=m a "p ( ! picture4 ,:y1 x  

makes me want to be back !re aga91 j to 
?9k ( x6  ,! ,madame is "r6 exclaim$ !  
,pr(essor he>tily--all ( our fri5ds call
 my wife ! ,madame because %e speaks    
,fr5* z flu5tly z ,engli%4 ,our fir/    
object on ?is trip w be pleasure4 ,a    
little k ( ! hi/ory ( ,fl&]s1 ( tape/ry 
& lacemak+1 ( ar*itecture & art1 may    
enhance our enjoym5t ( :at we see1      
because we w !reby und]/& x bett] &     
appreciate its int]e/ or beauty m ke5ly4
 ,b we are n go+ ov] z hi/orical        
savants1 or z au?orities on art--or     
pret5d t we "k any m ab\t su* subjects  
?an we really d--  ,:i* is j en\gh to   
enable u to d]ive s9c]e pleasure f see+ 
!m1 & hav+ !m expla9$ to u1 )\t tr\bl+  
our heads ab\t ?is1 t or ! o!r elem5t ( 
te*nique1 ,i int]rupt$1 complet+ !      
,pr(essor's s5t5ce = him4  ,& ! be/ "p (
 ! day w be1 j z ,madame says1 add$     
,mrs4 ,pr(essor gaily1 ! d9n]s on !     
sidewalks1 :]e we c wat* ! p z !y g ab\t
 & tell ea* o!r ( :at we h se5 s9ce     
morn+4 ,&1 hurray6 = ! ,flemi% inns6    

,well1 z to ,flemi% inns1 obs]v$ !      
,madame1 :at ,i said relat$ to eat+ a   
d9n] 9 "o4 ,:5 x comes to sleep+ 9 !m   
!re are o!r ?+s to ?9k ( besides beam$  
ceil+s & picturesque int]iors4  ,a few  
ye>s ago we _h an exp]i5ce at ,antw]p t 
taught u ! folly ( arriv+ at a great    
cont95tal city late at night )\t hav+   
hotel accommodations secur$ 9 advance4  
,we _h />t$ at eight 9 ! morn+ f        
,hamburg1 int5d+ to /op at ,antw]p j    
long en\gh to transf] our belong+s to a 
tra9 = ,brussels t1 accord+ to !        
"t-table1 w\ld leave fifte5 m9utes aft] 
our tra9 arriv$4 ,n[1 f ,hamburg to     
,antw]p is q a long ride--%ort z !      
di/ance looks on ! map--& :5 we f9ally  
arriv$ at our de/9ation1 half an h\r    
late1 x 0 long aft] midnight & our tra9 
= ,brussels _h gone4  ,we 7 bo? tir$    
out1 & ha/ily decid$ t we w\ld put up at
 ,antw]p = ! night & g on to ,brussels 9
 ! morn+4 ,z we em]g$ f ! great ,g>e    
,c5trale we f\nd despite ! lat5ess ( !  
h\r1 ab\t a doz5 r$-capp$ hotel runn]s1 

ea* ( :om clam\r$ = our patronage4 ,!y  
all look$ v mu* alike1 ! names on _!    
caps meant no?+ to u z we 7 n famili> ) 
! ,antw]p hotels1 & we select$ "o at    
r&om4 ,to our dismay we discov]$1 :5 x 0
 too late1 t1 :]eas mo/ ( !m _h hotel   
busses 9 wait+--into :i* !y leap$ & 7   
driv5 (f--our cic]one 0 n s provid$4 ,he
 attempt$ to reassure u by say+ t ! ,gr&
 ,hotel de ---- 0 close by--a fact t    
produc$ ! opposite effect f t int5d$1 z 
we knew t ! imm$iate vic9ity ( a l>ge   
railroad /ation is seldom a desirable   
neighb\rhood4  ,h[ev]1 ! o!r port]s 7 n[
 gone &1 unless we 7 dispos$ to sleep 9 
! /ation1 !re 0 no?+ to d b foll[ along4
 ,to our fur!r al>m our guide pres5tly  
turn$ into a mo/ unprepossess+ /reet on 
:i* sev]al dr9k+ places 7 /ill op51 or 7
 only on ! po9t ( clos+4 ,into "o ( ^!  
he l$ u4 ,aft] a %ort conf]5ce ) !      
proprietress1 :o 0 sitt+ beh9d ! b>     
c\nt+ ! day's receipts1 he took a c&le &
 a huge key & l$ u out into ! c\rt1 !n  
up a flight ( /airs plac$ on ! outside (

 ! h\se1 & ?r\gh sev]al n>r[            
passageways4 ,b = ! flick]+ c&le ev]y?+ 
0 completely d>k1 & :5 he f9ally u%]$ u 
into an imm5se room ) a m$ival f\r-po/  
b$ 9 its d>ke/ corn] we involunt>ily    
look$ = ! trap-door d[n :i* ! murd]\s   
inn-keep]s ( ! /ories 7 wont to ca/ _!  
victims4  ,light+ a pair ( c&les on !   
mantelpiece f 81 & wi%+ u a civil ',bon 
soir1' our r$-capp$ guide n[ left u--to 
our great relief4 ,al?\gh we tri$ to    
dismiss our fe>s z *ildi%1 we bo? felt m
 insecure & helpless ?an we c>$ to      
admit1 ev5 to ea* o!r4 ,none ( our      
fri5ds knew t we 7 9 ,antw]p4 ,if we    
disappe>$ !y w\ld h>dly ?9k to look = u 
!re--& /ill less on ?is %abby /reet1 ! v
 "n ( :i* we did n "k4  ,we b>ricad$ !  
door aga9/ a sudd5 surprise1 inspect$ ! 
walls ) a c&le = signs ( ! secret door  
7at ! head ( ! w9d+ /airway up :i* !    
wick$ innkeep] s (t5 creeps ^u 8 prey1  
accord+ to ! *ronicles7 & at la/1 !     
fatigue ( ! day ov]com+ our fe>s1 we    
slept4 ,x 0 broad daylight :5 we awoke1 

& ! /reet 0 alive ) p--mo/ly c>tm5 &    
peasants x seem$4 ,) "s difficulty we   
f\nd our way d[n to ! room :]e we _h se5
 ! l&lady ! night be=e4 ,%e greet$ u    
w>mly1 our fe>s ( ! night _h fl$--& we  
sat d[n & ord]$1 & enjoy$1 a mo/        
excell5t breakfa/4 ,! hotel 0 q a popul>
 "o1 we le>n$1 mu* frequ5t$ by p f      
ne>-by t[ns1 & we _h nev] be5 saf] 9 our
 lives4 ,yet1 j ! same1 we bo? v[$      
firmly t ',nev] ,aga9' w\ld we take     
simil> *ances--& we nev] h4  ,i h ?\ght 
( t incid5t m ?an once :ile talk+ ov]   
our ,flemi% t\r ) ! ,pr(essor1 ,i       
obs]v$1 & h decid$ ^u ?is plan4 ,:5 we  
f9d a hotel t suits u all1 z reg>ds     
cleanl9ess1 cuis9e & safety--or r ! s5se
 ( security1 = ,i d>esay we w\ld be safe
 en\gh 9 _m t we w\ld h>dly c>e to      
patronise--we w /ay ov]night 9 :atev]   
t[n we may *ance to be visit+4 ,if1 on !
 o!r h&1 we h n _h "t to f9d su* a      
place1 we'll take a tra9 back to ,antw]p
 or ,brussels1 :]e !re are hotels t we  
"k all ab\t4 ,we'll get second-class    

billets d'abonnem5t e two weeks anyway1 
s ! rail trip w only co/ u our "t4  ,&  
are ,antw]p & ,brussels bo? 9 ,fl&]s8   
inquir$ ,mrs4 ,pr(essor4 ,betwe5 y1 y h 
giv5 me an idea t ,i %\ld l to visit    
,fl&]s1 b y h none ( y answ]$ my "q z to
 :]e x is4  ,i ?9k ,i c answ] y1 my de>1
 repli$ h] husb&4 ,!re are1 z y probably
 "k1 two little prov9ces 9 ! nor!rn "p (
 ,belgium call$ ,ea/ & ,we/ ,fl&]s4 ,!  
b\nd>ies ( ! ,fl&]s ( hi/ory & ( art1   
h[ev]1 cov] a consid]able wid] area ?an 
^! two prov9ces4 ,ov] 9 ,france a       
consid]able "p ( ! ,dep>tm5t du ,nord 0 
= c5turies subject to ! ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s4
 ,on ! o!r side1 to ! ea/w>d1 ! cities (
 ,antw]p & ,mal9es 7 = _m c5turies      
indep5d5t ( ! ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s1 b _! p   
spoke ,flemi%1 _! h\ses1 *ur*es &       
t[n-halls 7 built 9 ! be/ /yle ( ,flemi%
 ar*itecture1 & !y became fam\s c5tres (
 ,flemi% art & le>n+4 ,to my m9d1 !re=e1
 !y bo? belong to ,fl&]s4 ,brussels1    
h[ev]1 :ile its ,hotel de ,ville & ,gr&e
 ,place are spl5did examples ( ,flemi%  

ar*itecture1 is m ,fr5* ?an ,flemi%1 &  
belongs to ! ,walloon or ,fr5* "p (     
,belgium4  ,n[1 z ! ,editor "h has      
propos$ a plan :i* seems to me a good "o
 z reg>ds our hotels1 ,i w v5ture to    
sugge/ "o z reg>ds our it9]>y4 ,x w make
 comp>atively little diff]5ce :i* t[ns  
we visit fir/1 & z "s are m closely     
id5tifi$ ) ! e>ly hi/ory ( ,fl&]s ?an ! 
o!rs ,i propose t we visit ^! old] t[ns 
fir/4 ,at ! "t ( ! ,crusades ,ypres1 =  
example1 _h two hundr$ ?\s& inhabitants 
:5 ! population ( ,london 0 less ?an    
?irty-five ?\s& & ,antw]p 0 an obscure  
little t[n4 ,nieuport & ,furnes 71 at t 
"t1 ! *ief seaports ( ,fl&]s4 ,n[ !y are
 miles f ! sea4 ,dixmude1 ne> by1 0     
ano!r important city ( ^? old5 days4 ,n[
 all ^! places are c\ntry villages--'!  
dead cities ( ,fl&]s1' !y are call$1 &  
sc>cely a t\ri/ f ,am]ica ev] visits !m1
 al?\gh !y are fairly famili> to our    
,engli% c\s9s4  ,if we />t our          
pilgrimage 9 ,fl&]s ) ,bruges1 :i* 0 !  
fir/ capital ( ! ,c\nty ( ,fl&]s1 & ) ^!

 old t[ns--all ( :i* are h>d by--we c   
plan our j\rneys *ronologically1 s to   
speak1 visit+ fir/ ! monum5ts t date f !
 twelf? to ! f\rte5? c5turies1 !n ^? ( !
 fifte5? & sixte5? c5turies1 & s on4 ,9 
t way we n only c keep ! little hi/ory  
we "k /raight1 b we c trace ) our own   
eyes ! gradual developm5t ( ,flemi%     
ar*itecture & art4  ,?is plan 0         
unanim\sly vot$ to be a capital "o--9   
!ory1 at any rate--& ?us x 0 t 9 our    
subsequ5t w&]+s ab\t ,fl&]s1 "u !       
guidance ( ! indefatigable ,pr(essor1 we
 (t5 cross$ our trail1 & n[ & !n visit$ 
! same place m ?an once4 ,9 practice x  
did n accompli% q all t 0 expect$ ( x by
 its le>n$ orig9ator--b :at plan ev]    
does1 or ev] w8 ,t x enhanc$ ! int]e/ ( 
! trip manyfold we all agre$2 x (t5     
su/a9$ our flagg+ zeal1 & x help$ u to  
"k ,fl&]s--! ,fl&]s ( ! pa/             
especially--f> bett] ?an we w\ld h done 
9 any o!r way4     ,,*apt] ,,ii  ,,vieux
 ,,bruges ,,& ,,c\nt ,,baldw9 ,,( ,,!   
,,iron ,,arm   ,x is n ! purpose ( ?is  

v]aci\s *ronicle to rec\nt ! do+s &     
say+s1 ! incid5ts or lack ( incid5t1 on 
! voyage across4 ,suffice x to say t 9  
due season ! good %ip ,lapl& turn$ its  
pr[ away f ! :ite cliffs ( ,dov] &      
/raight t[>d ! l[-ly+ %ores ( ,fl&]s4 ,z
 %e cross$ ! ,nor? ,sea scores ( fi%+   
boats ) br[n sails hov]$ ar\nd h]1 :ile 
?rongs ( seagulls so>$ ov]head1 or n[ & 
!n da%$ madly into h] foam+ wake to     
grasp "s morsel flung f deck or por?ole1
 or fight fi]cely ) ea* o!r = its       
possession4 ,pres5tly1 9 ! haze ahead1 a
 fa9t outl9e ( l& c\ld be di/+ui%$1 &   
soon we c\ld see ?r\gh our glasses !    
heap$ up dunes t m>k ! battle l9e betwe5
 ! ,nor? ,sea & ! f]tile ,flemi% pold]s 
beh9d !m4 ,"h & !re ! %ore 0 /r5g!n$ by 
r[s ( pil+s to keep ! waves ( ,w9t] f   
wa%+ x away4 ,z a sight1 h[ev]1 x 0     
dre>y & un9vit+ en\gh--n at all l !     
picturesque headl&s ( ,m]rie ,engl& we  
_h be5 look+ at only a few h\rs be=e4   
,n[1 = a "t1 ! %ip kept its c\rse       
p>allel to ! %ore1 b at a di/ance ( a   

mile or m4 ,gradually ! coa/ became m   
inhabit$1 & soon we c\ld see a r[ ( /one
 & brick build+s fac+ directly on ! bea*
 :i* "s "o said 0 ,blank5b]ghe4 ,no d\bt
 !re 7 o!r r[s ( h\ses beh9d ! fir/1 b  
ei!r !y 7 l[]1 or 9 ! haze our glasses  
c\ld n di/+ui% !m4 ,!n ! panorama ( !   
,flemi% coa/ unroll$ a little fur!r & we
 saw ! long curv$ breakwat] (           
,zee-,brugge1 ) its :ite ligh?\se4 ,?is 
is an artificial port connect$ ) !      
anci5t capital ( ,fl&]s by a %ip canal4 
,entrance to ! canal f ! sea is effect$ 
by a l>ge lock :i* 0 fa9tly visible4    
,ano!r bea* city1 ,hey/1 next appe>$--! 
%ip seem+ to /& /ill :ile ! %orel9e m>*$
 sl[ly pa/4 ,!n came a small] place1 :i*
 f our maps we conclud$ mu/ be ,knocke4 
,"h ! coa/l9e ( ! pres5t ,k+dom (       
,belgium ends1 ! little ,riv]           
,zwyn--once fam\s z ! *annel up :i* "o  
hundr$ & fifty %ips a day made _! way to
 ,bruges 9 ! days ( its greatness--=m+ !
 b\nd>y4  ,! ,dut* are app>5tly n       
int]e/$ 9 sea ba?+1 = !re 7 no m wat]+  

places4 ,9 fact ! :ole coa/ seem$ to be 
dead & des]t$1 & we 7 glad :5 ! ,lapl&  
began to turn h] pr[ inl&4 ,we 7 n[ 9 ! 
broad e/u>y ( ! ,s*eldt1 & soon ! t9y   
city ( ,flu%+ appe>$4 ,x 0 ov] on ! o!r 
side ( ! %ip & we all scamp]$ across to 
take our fir/ ne> look1 z ,mrs4         
,pr(essor express$ x1 ( ! l& we _h come 
to see--= ,flu%+ belong$ = c5turies to !
 great ov]lords ( ,fl&]s1 ! ,dukes (    
,burgundy & _! successors4 ,x look$ v   
small & compact f ! t[]+ deck ( ! big   
l9]1 b also v qua9t & int]e/+1 & we all 
agre$ t z a sample ( :at we _h come s f>
 to see x 0 ! rev]se ( disappo9t+4      
,soon ! propell]s ( ! ,lapl& began to   
revolve aga9 & ! little ,dut* city sl[ly
 slipp$ out ( sight 9 ! fa/ ga!r+ gloom 
( a com+ %[]4 ,z night came on ! eng9es 
pres5tly came to re/ once m & we an*or$ 
to await daylight & flood tide :i*1 !   
(fic]s said1 w\ld come toge!r4 ,at f\r  
o'clock ! foll[+ morn+ ! ,pr(essor & ,i 
7 on deck 9 ord] to miss z little z     
possible ( ! voyage up ! greye/ ( grey  

riv]s1 z ! ,s*eldt has be5 call$4 ,!    
,lapl& _h />t$ :ile we 7 asleep1 & we 7 
already 9 ,belgium4 ,?is circum/ance    
disappo9t$ ! ,pr(essor n a little z he  
_h set 8 he>t on see+ ! rema9s ( ! ,dut*
 =ts at ! b\nd>y l9e t = ne>ly "o hundr$
 & fifty ye>s--f ! ,treaty ( ,mun/] 9   
#afdh to ! ,fr5* occupation 9           
#agid--;clos$ ! riv] to ocean comm]ce4  
,mean:ile1 grass grew 9 ! /reets ( ! all
 b des]t$ city ( ,antw]p4 ,! ,fr5* tore 
d[n ! hat$ =ts & = ne>ly =ty ye>s ! %ips
 f ov]sea w5t up ! riv] unmole/$4 ,!n   
came ! ,revolution ( #ahcj & !          
e/abli%m5t ( ! ,k+dom ( ,belgium1       
:]eupon ! ,dut* proce$$ to impose heavy 
navigation duties ^u all %ips pass+     
?r\gh ! l[] "p ( ! riv]4 ,:ile ?is did n
 /ifle ! trade ( ,antw]p1 x s]i\sly     
crippl$ x1 s9ce ! duties =m$ a h&icap 9 
! ke5 competition = traffic betwe5 !    
,belgian port & ^? ( ,holl& & ,g]many   
f>!r to ! ea/w>d4 ,x 0 n until #ahfc t !
 ,belgian ,gov]nm5t 0 able to arrange a 
treaty :]eby all riv] dues 7 aboli%$ 9  

return = ! paym5t ( a lump sum (        
#cf1jjj1jjj francs--( :i* only "o-?ird 0
 paid by ,belgium1 z o!r p[]s 7 int]e/$ 
9 obta9+ fre$om ( navigation on ?is     
important riv] & gladly contribut$ !    
rema9d]4 ,! impos+ monum5t by ,w9d]s on 
! ,place ,m>nix at ,antw]p1 :i* 0 erect$
 9 #ahhc1 commemorates ?is important    
ev5t1 to :i* ! port owes its pres5t     
prosp]ity4  ,z ! ,lapl& sl[ly /eam$ up !
 riv] we c\ld look d[n f h] l(ty decks  
^u ! broad & int5sely cultivat$ pla91   
/ret*+ z f> z eye c\ld p5etrate 9 ! mi/y
 di/ance4 ,"h & !re we c\ld see compact 
little gr\ps ( f>m build+s1 usually     
arrang$ ar\nd a c5tral c\rty>d & ) _!   
out] walls well-nigh w9d[less1 z if !   
peasant proprietors /ill c\nt$ on !     
possibility ( a siege su* z _! ance/ors 
no d\bt (t5 _h to su/a9 aga9/ ! w&]+    
m>aud]s & freeboot]s :o = c5turies      
infe/$ ! c\ntry4 ,along e road & canal1 
& beside ne>ly e cross-c\ntry pa?1 we   
c\ld see long l9es ( trees set out at   
regul> int]vals & cutt+ ! l&scape into  

sections ( v>y+ sizes & %apes4 ,n[ & !n 
a little hamlet c\ld be se51 ) its      
r$-til$ ro(s ne/l+ close toge!r & a t9y 
*ur* /eeple ris+ f ! c5tre4 ,(t5 ! ro(s 
( ! h\ses ne>e/ to ! riv] 7 bel[ ! top (
 ! high dykes :i* "h enclose ! ,s*eldt  
on ei!r side4 ,close to ! banks an      
occasional =t comm&$ ! riv]--outly+ l9ks
 9 ! great *a9 ( =tifications t 0 ?\ght 
to be impregnable until ! huge ,g]man   
siege guns s quickly batt]$ x to pieces4
  ,pres5tly "s "o ) a ke5] vision ?an ! 
re/ cries t ! spire ( ! ,ca!dral (      
,antw]p is 9 sight & we all cr[d =w>d & 
pe] eag]ly ?r\gh ! mi/ until at la/ we  
make out vaguely ! %ape ( t m>vel (     
,flemi% ar*itecture ris+ above ! flat   
pla94 ,at ea* turn ( ! riv] x draws ne>]
 & we c see m cle>ly its delicate trac]y
 ( lace-"w c>v$ 9 /one1 :ile "o by "o   
o!r spires loom up ?r\gh ! grey dawn4   
,! traffic 9 ! riv] becomes m d5se z we 
proce$ sl[ly onw>d--huge r$-bottom$     
tramp /eam]s ) _! propell]s half out ( !
 wat] & *urn+ furi\sly 9 a smo!r ( foam1

 clumsy canal boats ) ,flemi% or ,g]man 
names ly+ at an*or close to ! banks1    
b>ges ) d+y br[ni% sails & all mann] (  
/range c>goes4 ,!n1 sudd5ly1 we sw+     
ar\nd ! la/ turn & ! entire city lies   
be=e u1 its h\ses ) _! high peaks &     
dorm] w9d[s ris+ ti] above ti]1 :ile at 
! left we cat* glimpses ?r\gh ! lock    
gates ( ! va/ inn] docks ) _! hundr$s ( 
ma/s & funnels4 ,curi\sly en\gh ! view  
to ! "r is entirely diff]5t--! gre5     
fields & f>m/eads /ret*+ 9 ?is direction
 f ! v edge ( ! riv] z f> z ! eye c see4
  ,b n[ we are w>p+ up aga9/ ! ,r$ ,/>  
,l9e pi] & all eyes are gaz+ d[n ^u !   
motley cr[d t has assembl$ ?us e>ly 9 ! 
morn+--x is n yet sev5 o'clock--to      
welcome ! new arrivals f ,am]ica4 ,!    
cu/oms inspection proves to be a m]e    
=mality1 half ( our trunks & bags are   
*alk-m>k$ by ! oblig+ inspector )\t     
lift+ a tray or di/urb+ any ( _!        
cont5ts4 ,a commissionaire is wait+ to  
be> !m away to ! cabs &1 aft] g5]\sly   
be/[+ five c5ts on ?is wor?y = 8 tr\ble1

 we are (f = ! ,g>e ,c5trale--= !       
,madame has decre$ t we mu/ all proce$  
=?) to ! home ( a c]ta9 ,tante 7,aunt7  
,rosa1 n f> f ,brussels1 :]e we c get   
our l& legs safely on be=e />t+ on our  
t\r "u ! guidance ( ! ,pr(essor4        
,?r\gh\t ! morn+ x has ra9$ heavily at  
int]vals1 & z ! rapide = ,brussels /eams
 out ( ! /ation ! grey cl\ds are p\r+   
d[n _! cont5ts 9 torr5ts4 ,?is          
circum/ance di/urbs u n at all1 = we h  
agre$ to pursue our c\rse reg>dless ( ! 
wea!r & are prep>$ = any?+ %ort ( a     
flood or blizz>d4 ,& "r "h x may be z   
well to /ate t any "o :o proposes to    
travel 9 ,fl&]s mu/ make up 8 or h] m9d 
to ignore ! vag>ies ( ! wea!r altoge!r4 
,at ,brussels ! wea!r records %[ t x    
ra9s m or less dur+ ?ree hundr$ days 9  
ea* ye>1 & :ile !re are _m days :5 !    
%[]s are brief1 & "s p]iods :5 x is cle>
 = sev]al days1 x is bett] to come      
prep>$ = any?+4 ,some:]e 9 ! direction (
 ! ,engli% ,*annel !re seems to exi/ a  
va/ cl\d factory1 = day aft] day "o sees

 ! huge cl\d masses roll+ sl[ly ea/w>d  
or s\?w>d across ! c\ntry4 ,usually !y  
are high ov]head1 ) frequ5t int]vals (  
brilliant sun%9e1 & ! %[]s few & f>     
betwe54 ,at o!r times ! cl\ds hang l[ & 
d>k & ! ra9 falls /eadily1 n 9 furi\s   
driv+ %[]s su* z occur frequ5tly dur+ ! 
summ] "t at ,new ,york1 b ) a monoton\s 
cont9uity t is ! despair ( travell]s :o 
are equipp$ only = fair wea!r4 ,x is no 
exagg]ation to /ate t "o may look out ( 
8 hotel w9d[ ^u a cl\dless sky & f9d t  
by ! "t he has desc5d$ to ! /reet x is  
ra9+4 ,happily ! rev]se is equally      
possible1 & frequ5tly we look$ out ( !  
w9d[ :ile at breakfa/ at p\r+ ra9 &     
dripp+ ro(s1 only to f9d by ! "t we 7   
ready to g out ( doors t ! %[] 0 ov]1 ! 
sky cle> & ! sidewalks ne>ly dry4 ,x is 
?is rapid alt]nation ( %[]s & sun%9e t  
makes ,fl&]s ! l& ( fl[]s & vegetables1 
giv+ ! =m] _! brilliant col\r+ & ! latt]
 _! indescribable succul5ce & fre%ness4 
,ano!r tip = ! w\ld-be travell] 9 ,fl&]s
 is to come well prep>$ = cold wea!r ev5

 9 ,june1 ,july or ,augu/4 ,! nights are
 always cool1 & ! prevail+ w9ds are f ! 
nor? or ! nor?we/--! =m] cold1 ! latt]  
wet4 ,_m ,am]icans contract s]i\s colds 
because !y come clad only = hot wea!r4  
,w>m und]we>1 on ! o!r h&1 is be/ = !   
,flemi% summ] climate1 ) ov]coats &     
wraps = ev5+ we>4 ,ra9coats1 x is       
ne$less to say1 %\ld be 9 e             
suitcase--ev5 = a day's out+1 :ile a v  
h&y article inde$ is a p>apluie-canne1  
or umbrella cane1 su* z c be pur*as$ 9  
,brussels = t5 francs & upw>ds4  ,9 less
 ?an ?ree-qu>t]s ( an h\r our fleet tra9
 0 roll+ into ! ,g>e du ,nord at        
,brussels2 b ,madame 0 9 a hurry1 s we  
became = ! "t birds ( passage only & 9  
ano!r h\r 7 already entra9$ aga9 & spe$+
 t[>d ! /eam+ d9n] t %e assur$ u la     
,tante ,bosa _h await+ u4 ,( ! reception
 t we f\nd :5 we arriv$ at la/1 & ( !   
d9n] :i* 0 pres5tly spread be=e u1 !re  
is no ne$ to say m ?an t ! latt] prov$  
to be all t we _h be5 l$ to anticipate4 
,s]v$ 9 ! true ,belgian /yle--cu/om>y   

alike 9 ,fl&]s & 9 ! ,walloon           
prov9ces--x occupi$ our att5tion = !    
great] "p ( ! aft]noon1 ! c\rses foll[+ 
"o ano!r leisurely1 ) int]vals betwe5   
dur+ :i* ! m5 folk /roll$ ab\t ! g>d5 & 
smok$4 ,two days lat] we />t$ on !      
,pr(essor's it9]>y1 completely refre%$  
aft] ! fatigue ( our voyage2 & aft] a   
bit ( %opp+ at ,brussels1 our pilgrimage
 into ! he>t ( ,fl&]s began4  ,x 0 a    
little aft] noon :5 we rea*$ ! old city 
( ,bruges1 & :ile we 7 eat+ our lun*eon 
! ,pr(essor expla9$ briefly ! orig9 ( ! 
city & ( ! ,c\nty ( ,fl&]s4 ,9 ord] to  
und]/& ! kaleidoscopic hi/ory ( ,fl&]s x
 is necess>y to =get entirely ! ,europe 
( to-day4 ,?r\gh\t ! ,middle ,ages      
,europe 0 sub-divid$ into hundr$s (     
sep>ate sov]eignties--du*ies1 c\nties1  
pr9cipalities l>ge & small1 ^: rul]s    
bore a score ( titles4 ,^!1 z a rule1   
ackn[l$g$ allegiance to "s high] pr9ce1 
:ile ! mo/ p[]ful yield$ def]5ce only to
 "s ,k+ or ,emp]or4 ,b ?is allegiance 0 
usually a v %ad[y affair1 & ! actual    

gov]nm5t re/$ absolutely 9 ! h&s ( !    
local ,c\nt1 or ,duke1 or :atev] else 8 
title may h be54 ,! hi/ory ( ,fl&]s is1 
!re=e1 9 a s5se1 ! hi/ory ( its ,c\nts1 
= z _! p[] wax$ or wan$ ! c\ntry itself 
grew p[]ful or weak4 ,gradually1 h[ev]1 
! great cities ( ,fl&]s acquir$ f !     
e>li] & bett] ,c\nts rights & privileges
 t made !m1 9 _m respects1 sov]eign     
p[]s1 & ! mo/ fasc9at+ & in/ructive "p (
 ! hi/ory ( ,fl&]s is ! record ( ! brave
 /ruggle made by its burgh]s to ma9ta9  
_! lib]ties 9 ! face ( a /eadily advanc+
 tide ( tyranny & oppression4  ,! fir/  
,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 :o won 8 title & 8      
doma9s dur+ ! p]iod ( /orm & /ress t    
foll[$ ! break+ up ( ! great empire (   
,*>lemagne1 0 a ,flemi% *ief1 call$     
,baldw9 ( ! ,iron ,arm4 ,he *anc$ "o day
 to see ,judi?1 ! beautiful daught] (   
,*>les ! ,bald1 ! son ( ,*>lemagne1 fell
 9 love ) h]1 & c>ri$ h] (f = 8 bride4  
,judi? _h be5 previ\sly m>ri$ to        
,e!lwolf1 ,k+ ( ,wessex 9 ,engl&1 :5 he 
0 a v old man2 & _h taught h] /epson1 :o

 aft]w>d became ,alfr$ ! ,great1 mu* ( 8
 le>n+4 ,! old ,k+ ,*>les1 h] fa!r1 = a 
"t oppos$ ! m>riage ) ,baldw91 b f9ally 
x 0 celebrat$ ) mu* spl5d\r at ,aux]re 9
 #hfc1 & ,baldw9 0 !reupon giv5 ! title 
( ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s4 ,on 8 return1 ,baldw9 
built a great =tress on an isl& =m$ by !
 int]section ( ! ,riv] ,roya ) its      
little tribut>y1 ! ,bot]beke4 ,?is 0    
call$ ! ,b\rg1 & soon conta9$ )9 its    
/rong walls ! nucleus ( ! future city ( 
,bruges4  ,mrs4 ,pr(essor int]rupt$ at  
?is po9t to ask if ! "n ,bruges 0 d]iv$ 
f ,b\rg1 to :i* our le>n$ fri5d repli$ t
 x 0 n1 b t mo/ hi/orians ascrib$ ! "n  
to ! bridge 79 ,flemi%1 brigge7 f ! isl&
 to ! ma9l&2 :ile "s take x f ! purple  
hea!r 7brugge7 :i* gr[s pl5tifully      
h]eab\t1 & 9 ,augu/ c be se5 alongside !
 railway tracks & 9 great clu/]s by !   
c\ntry roadsides4  ,! fir/ aft]noon's   
programme 0 to discov] z mu* z we c\ld (
 ! old ,b\rg ( ,baldw9 ( ! ,iron ,arm4  
,n mu* ( x is left 9 ! ,bruges ( ,alb]t 
! ,fir/4 ,! ,roya /ill runs :]e x did 9 

! days ( ! fir/ ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s1 b only 
along ! ,dyv]1 a t]race ( middle-class  
resid5ces1 c x be se5 by ! t\ri/4 ,s9ce 
! eighte5? c5tury x has be5 vault$ ov] =
 mu* ( its c\rse ?r\gh ! city1 & !      
,bot]beke runs ?r\gh subt]ranean *annels
 = ! entire di/ance f :]e x ent]s ! city
 limits to its junction ) ! ,roya at !  
corn] ( ! rue ,breidel4 ,x fl[s close to
 ! ,ca!dral1 or possibly b5ea? x1 &     
directly "u ! ,belfry1 :i* is built on  
piles4 ,= "p ( its c\rse x runs1 l a    
subway1 "u ! rue du ,vieux ,b\rg4 ,!    
only build+ 9 mod]n ,bruges t dates f ! 
fir/ ,baldw9's "t is ! crypt ( ,/4      
,basil1 "u ! ,*apel ( ! ,holy ,blood4   
,"h1 or assur$ly h>d by1 ! f\nd] ( !    
long l9e ( ,flemi% ,c\nts1 & 8 beautiful
 & tal5t$ ,c\ntess1 no d\bt wor%ipp$2 &1
 9 ! ma91 ! little *apel probably looks 
today v mu* z x did a ?\s& ye>s ago4 ,9 
"o corn]1 app>5tly outside ( ! orig9al  
out] walls ( ! /ructure1 ! conci]ge %[$ 
u a m9iature model ( ! anci5t ca/le ( ! 
fir/ ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s z ar*eologi/s h    

recon/ruct$ x1 ) ! little ,*apel ( ,/4  
,basil adjo9+ x4 ,on ! opposite side1 & 
ne> ! entrance1 is a small] *apel :i* "s
 au?orities /ate 0 ! "o built by old    
,iron-,arm1 ! ma9 /ructure dat+ f !     
middle ( ! twelf? c5tury4 ,be ?is z x   
may1 "h is unque/ionably ! v olde/ relic
 ( ! anci5t ,b\rg & "o ( ! olde/ places 
( wor%ip 9 all ,fl&]s4  ,aft] our       
inspection ( ,/4 ,basil we decid$ to    
devote ! re/ ( ! aft]noon to tramp+     
ar\nd ! /reets ( ! ,vieux ,b\rg1 or1 9  
o!r words1 ! section ( ! city )9 !      
circle ( picturesque old quays t m>k !  
approximate b\nd>ies ( ! isl&-=tress :]e
 ! fir/ ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s laid !          
f\ndations ( _! p[]4 ,to be sure1 none (
 ! h\ses n[ /&+ date f a mu* e>li] p]iod
 ?an ! fifte5? c5tury1 b all 7 s qua9t &
 *>m+ t we c>$ little = ! ar*eologi/s ) 
_! dates1 & felt ourselves transport$   
)\t an ef=t to ! days :5 might made "r &
 ! :ole _w 0 gov]n$ by ! simple law t he
 may take :o has ! p[]1 & he may keep :o
 c4 ,we little dream$1 z we j\rney$ ab\t

 amid ^! peaceful surr\nd+s1 t )9 a s+le
 mon? ! _w 0 to rev]t to ! rule ( might 
once m2 t1 to quote f ,kipl+'s noble    
poem1 /rick5 ,belgium1 &1 inde$1 all    
civilisation c\ld say3      ,our _w has 
pass$ away1       ,9 wantonness         
o'er?r[n4     ,!re's no?+ left to-day   
,b /eel & fire & /one4      ,once m we  
he> ! ^w       ,t sick5$ e>? ( old--    
',no law except ! sword1       ,un%ea!d 
& uncontroll$4'     ,,*apt] ,,iii       
,,bruges ,,9 ,,! ,,days ,,( ,,*>les ,,! 
,,good   ,to ^? = :om ! pa/ possesses   
elem5ts ( romance1 ( my/]y & (          
fasc9ation t our m prosaic & ord]ly     
mod]n _w lacks1 ,bruges (f]s endless    
opportunities = enjoym5t4 ,to be sure1 !
 /reets are a bit m cr[d$ ?an !y 7 tw5ty
 ye>s ago1 & "o sees m frequ5t gr\ps (  
p1 c>ry+ little r$-back$ ,ba$ek]s &     
evid5tly int5t on see+ all ! sights1 ?an
 =m]ly4 ,b ^! are evils ( :i* all old   
travell]s compla91 z "o comp>es notes ) 
!m at ! hotel aft] ! day is ov]4 ,"o    
c>etak] told u1 ) evid5t pride1 t ?irty 

?\s& t\ri/s visit$ ,bruges 9 #aiac4 ,if 
"o divides ?is total by ?ree hundr$ &   
sixty-five1 & ! result aga9 by ! score  
or m ( places t e t\ri/ wants to see1 x 
w be p]ceiv$ t ! numb] 9 any "o place at
 ! same "t is n likely to be excessive4 
,9 po9t ( fact our little p>ty 0 almo/  
inv>iably alone1 save :5 we enc\nt]$ a  
p>ty ( p]sonally conduct$ travell]s ru%+
 at break-neck spe$ f place to place4   
,if1 aft] see+ all ! po9ts ( int]e/     
enum]at$ by ! fai?ful r$-coat$ guide1   
philosoph] & companion above m5tion$1 "o
 %\ld /ray d[n "o or ano!r ( ! n>r[1    
crook$ /reets 9 ! old] p>ts ( ! t[n he  
is c]ta9 to f9d bits ( m$ival ,bruges "h
 & !re s well pres]v$ & p]fect t if !   
few pass]s-by only wore ! picturesque   
co/umes ( ! old5 days ! illusion w\ld be
 complete4 ,take1 = example1 ! rue de   
l',ane ,aveugle1 ! ,/reet ( ! ,bl9d     
,donkey1 ) its att5uat$ sidewalks along 
:i* a tight-rope walk] c\ld h>dly       
advance )\t /epp+ (f1 its roadway too   
n>r[ = two bl9d donkeys to pass abrea/1 

& its *>m+ ar*way f ! ,hotel de ,ville  
to ! ,maison de l'anci5 ,greffe ,flam&2 
or ! rue du ,poivre1 ) its t9y "o-/ory  
h\ses1 _m ( !m ) "o room d[n-/airs & "o 
ov]head--! latt] light$ by ! qua9te/ (  
gable w9d[s--surely we h /epp$ backw>d  
half a doz5 c5turies1 = no?+ l ?is c\ld 
h cont9u$ to exi/ until ! prosaic       
pres5t6  ,9 fact ^! que] little "o-/ory 
h\ses ab\nd 9 all p>ts ( ! city1 & !    
,madame 0 con/antly d>t+ across !       
roadway to pe] )9 :5ev] %e saw a door   
aj>4 ,%e g5]ally return$ highly         
indignant t any "o c\ld ?9k ( exi/+ 9   
su* n>r[ qu>t]s4 ,i'd z soon live 9 a   
tomb6 %e exclaim$1 nodd+ 9 ! direction (
 "o little h\se :i* consi/$ ( "o room & 
only "o1 be+ devoid ev5 ( ! attic room )
 its cu/om>y dorm] w9d[4 ,inside sat an 
old lady1 gaz+ tranquilly out ( doors & 
do+ no?+ :atev]4 ,inde$1 z ! ,madame    
po9t$ out1 !re 0 little en\gh to d z f> 
z h\sework 0 conc]n$4 ,9 ! morn+        
ev]ybody 9 ,fl&]s wa%es ! /one floors ( 
_! liv+-rooms1 & frequ5tly ! sidewalk & 

out to ! middle ( ! /reet z well4 ,?is  
done1 ! h\sework = ! day is ov]1 except 
= prep>+ ! meals4 ,we _h hop$ to see old
 ladies by ! score sitt+ at ! doorways  
mak+ lace1 b on only "o /reet--! rue du 
,r\leau--did we cat* a glimpse ( any1 & 
!y w5t indoors z we approa*$ !m4 ,x 0   
only ! e/am9ets t we c\ld inspect )94   
,:5ev] we f\nd :at appe>$ to be an      
exceptionally old h\se t bore ! leg5d   
,hi] ,v]koopt m5 drank ! ,pr(essor & ,i 
(t5 us$ to g 9 & ord] a glass ( ,vieux  
sy/me1 simply to get a look at !        
int]ior4 ,if1 z sometimes happ5$1       
mijnhe] & 8 vr\e 7 v accommodat+ & k9d1 
we summon$ ! ladies--despite ! fact t ! 
sign )\t appe>$ to mean = m5 only--&    
toge!r we explor$ ! old h\se f g>ret to 
cell>4  ,m ?an once1 z we j\rney$ ab\t  
among ^! delightfully old & qua9t       
surr\nd+s1 ! long+ to see "s "o ^:      
co/ume w\ld1 9 a measure1 sugge/ ! p]iod
 :5 ^! /ructures 7 built came back to u4
 ,oh6 exclaim$ ,mrs4 ,pr(essor1 z we sat
 "o aft]noon 9 a p>ticul>ly cosy corn] (

 "o ( ! olde/ int]iors we _h yet se51 if
 two or ?ree knights 9 arm\r--or 9 _!   
lovely co/umes ( velvet1 silk & old     
lace--w\ld /alk 9 & sit d[n at t table  
ov] !re x w\ld make ! picture complete4 
,we f\nd1 h[ev]1 "o spot 9 ,bruges1 dat+
 f ! twelf? c5tury1 9 :i* ev5 ! co/umes 
7 un*ang$4 ,?is 0 ! ,bgu9age1 close to !
 ,m9newat] & ! anci5t city ramp>ts--a   
city ( ! pa/ :]e1 %ut (f by high brick  
walls f ! noise & bu/le ( ! out] _w1    
peaceful figures clad 9 sombre grey &   
:ite move noiselessly ab\t z if ! big   
figures on ! cal5d> read #aaad in/ead ( 
#aiad4  ,except = two in/itutions ( !   
k9d 9 ,holl&1 ,belgium is ! only c\ntry 
9 ,europe 9 :i* ^! ,bgu9ages h          
surviv$--all ( !m 9 ,fl&]s4 ,no         
in/itution ( ! pres5t day recalls s     
vividly ! conditions t exi/$ at ! "t :5 
,fl&]s 0 ! "n ( a wild m>% c\ntry peopl$
 by yet wild] m54 ,9 #hgg ! ,emp]or made
 ! title ( ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s h]$it>y--!    
olde/ title ( ! k9d 9 ,europe4 ,baldw9  
,,ii1 son ( ,baldw9 ( ! ,iron ,arm & !  

beautiful ,judi?1 m>ri$ ,alfrida1 !     
daught] ( ,alfr$ ! ,great4 ,! second    
,baldw9 0 r5[n$ *iefly = 8 "w 9 =tify+ !
 t[ns ( ,bruges1 ,gh5t1 ,ypres &        
,c\rtrai z a means ( protection aga9/ ! 
robb] *iefs :o /ill--despite ! en]getic 
w>f>e ( 8 fa!r--infe/$ ?is entire       
region4 ,! necessity = protection aga9/ 
robb]s1 & occasional incursions ( savage
 ,danes f ! ,nor? ,sea1 caus$ population
 to flock spe$ily into ^! wall$ t[ns1 & 
?us laid ! f\ndation = ! wond]ful civic 
developm5t ( ! next f\r c5turies4 ,! son
 ( ,baldw9 ,,ii1 ,arnulph--(t5 call$    
,arnulph ! ,great--cont9u$ ! policy (   
/r5g!n+ ! cities1 & also e/abli%$ or    
re/or$ ne>ly a score ( mona/]ies &      
conv5ts = ! protection ( m5 & wom5 aga9/
 ! _m dang]s ( t lawless age4 ,! fam\s  
*apt] ( ,/4 ,donatian's at ,bruges 0 "o 
( ^!1 & :ile ! ,bgu9age dates f a       
some:at lat] epo* 9 ! t[n's hi/ory1 x   
admirably exemplifies _m ( ! pr9ciples t
 made ^! e>ly religi\s ord]s !          
/rongholds1 n only ( piety 9 a p]iod (  

semi-b>b>ism1 b ( le>n+ & civilisation4 
,illu/ration3 ,b,,gu9age ,,bridge1      
,,bruges4  ,! ,bgu9age at ,bruges is mu*
 small] ?an ! fam\s ,gr& ,bgu9age at    
,gh5t1 :i* s _m t\ri/s visit1 b is f> m 
anci5t--its ar*$ gateway dat+ f !       
?irte5? c5tury & its gloomy & b>n-l     
*apel f #afje4 ,h[ old ! h\ses are no "o
 seem$ to "k1 b probably _m ( !m are    
old] ?an ! *apel4 ,! little bridge by   
:i* "o ent]s its quiet prec9cts 0 fir/  
built 9 #abig1 ( wood1 accord+ to !     
records1 b its pres5t picturesque /one  
ar*es date f #aegj--;a respectable      
antiquity1 ev5 = ,bruges4 ,we f\nd      
sev]al ( ! little h\ses unt5ant$ = "s   
reason1 b ev5 ! empty ones 7 spotlessly 
clean4 ,! ,bgu9es live 9 small          
communities or conv5ts1 "u ! sup]9t5d5ce
 ( a ,lady ,sup]ior call$ de ,juff]2 or 
9 h\ses :]e two or ?ree live toge!r4 ,9 
! conv5ts !re are usually ab\t tw5ty    
inmates4 ,ea* has h] little cell1 b ^!  
we 7 n p]mitt$ to see4 ,we did1 h[ev]1  
inspect ! kit*5 & d9+-room ( "o ( !     

conv5ts--& ! l>ge sunny workroom1 9 :i* 
! ,bgu9es 7 assembl$4 ,ea* 0 *att+ al\d 
z %e work$1 b :e!r 9 ,flemi% or ,lat9 we
 c\ld n tell4 ,on e face !re re/$ ! same
 expression ( absolute peace &          
quietness1 nor did a s+le "o betray !   
slighte/ int]e/ or curiosity at our     
pres5ce4  ,9 ! e>ly annals ( ,bruges no 
/ory is m dramatic ?an t ( ! murd] (    
,*>les ! ,good4 ,x is1 9 fact1 ! !me ( !
 great ,flemi% noveli/ ,h5drick         
,consci5ce's mo/ fam\s book1 ,de ,k]els 
van ,vla&]51 & has be5 told by sev]al   
contempor>y *ronicl]s4 ,:5 ,*>les became
 ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s ! feudal sy/em 0 sl[ly  
displac+ ! an>*y t _h result$ f !       
breakd[n ( all c5tralis$ gov]nm5t z !   
,norsem5 swept ov] nor!rn ,europe4      
,*>les 0 an ard5t believ] 9 ! new ord]1 
b 0 oppos$ 9 8 policy ( build+ up a     
/rong feudal /ate by ! ,k>ls1 a class ( 
free l&hold]s ( ,saxon desc5t1 :o       
/ubbornly refus$ to swe> allegiance to  
any feudal ov]-"l4 ,! greate/ ( ^! 0 !  
h\se ( ,erembald4 ,desid]i\s ,hacket1 ! 

head ( ! family1 0 ,*tela9 ( ,bruges1   
rank+ next to ! ,c\nt himself2 :ile 8   
bro!r ,b]tulph 0 ,provo/ ( ,/4          
,donatian1 ! pr9cipal ecclesia/ical     
position 9 ! ,c\nty1 & *ancellor ( !    
,c\nt4 ,! head ( ! feudal lords 0       
,tancm>1 ,"l ( ,/rat54 ,betwe5 ! p[]ful 
h\ses ( ,erembald & ,/rat5 !re 0 a      
deadly feud1 :i* culm9at$ 9 a *all5ge to
 mortal combat deliv]$ to ,walt]1 a     
nephew ( ,tancm>1 by ,ri*>d de ,raeske1 
a b>on alli$ by m>riage to ! h\se (     
,erembald4  ,to ! amazem5t ( all ,fl&]s 
! *all5ge1 deliv]$ 9 ! pres5ce ( ,c\nt  
,*>les & all 8 c\rt1 0 refus$4 ,walt]1  
:om ! hi/orians call ! ,w+$ ,lie1       
proclaim$ t he w\ld fight only ) a free 
man1 & t ! ,"l ( ,raeske1 by w$d+ a s]f1
 _h become a s]f himself4 ,?is 0 9      
accordance ) a law rec5tly promulgat$ by
 ,*>les1 b ! h\se ( ,erembald1 p]ceiv+ t
 its v exi/5ce 0 ?reat5$ by ! *>ge1     
fi]cely repell$ ! accusation & 0        
support$ n only by all ( ! ,k>ls1 b by  
mo/ ( ! feudal nobility z well--! latt] 

no d\bt fe>+ le/ "o ( _! own h\ses might
 be atta9t$ 9 a simil> mann] at any     
mom5t4  ,! c\ntry 0 plung$ into :at 0   
virtually civil w>1 :5 ,*>les 0 sudd5ly 
summon$ by 8 feudal ov]-"l1 ! ,k+ (     
,france1 to come to 8 aid at ,cl]mont4  
,on 8 return1 assur$ ( ! ,k+'s p[]ful   
support1 ,*>les und\bt$ly m$itat$ !     
complete ov]?r[ ( ! ,erembalds1 :om he  
_h /eadfa/ly claim$ z 8 vassals s9ce !  
,w+$ ,lie _h d5\nc$ !m z s]fs4 ,he      
arriv$ at ,bruges late 9 ! ev5+1 & e>ly 
! foll[+ day1 ,m>* #a1 #aabg1 repair$ to
 ,/4 ,donatian to he> mass4 ,x 0 a foggy
 morn+ & ! ,c\nt w5t almo/ unatt5d$4    
,h>dly _h he knelt be=e ! alt> :5 a p>ty
 ( foll[]s ( ! atta9t$ h\se ( ,erembald 
sw>m$ into ! *ur* & he 0 /ruck d[n be=e 
he _h "t to rise1 mu* less to def5d     
himself4  ,if1 9 8 lifetime1 ! ,c\nt 0 a
 dang]\s foe to ! ,erembalds1 9 8 dea?  
he prov$ to be f> m deadly4 ,z 8 body   
lay on ! /one floor ( ! great *ur*1 clad
 9 ! crimson robe ! *ronicl]s s (t5     
allude to1 & surr\nd$ ) flam+ tor*es1 ! 

heads ( ! h\se ha/ily consult$ z to :at 
0 to be done ) x4 ,to int] ! body at    
,bruges w\ld be to risk an outbreak (   
popul> passion at ! murd]1 & x 0 decid$ 
to secretly convey x away4 ,?is plan 0  
rudely fru/rat$ by a mob ( citiz5s :o   
=cibly prev5t$ ! removal ( ! body1 :i* 0
 !re=e laid to re/ ) impos+ c]emonies 9 
! v *ur* :]e ! ,c\nt _h be5 assass9at$4 
,mean:ile ! /ory ( ! murd] spread f> &  
wide1 &1 9 a few days1 a huge ho/ 0 m>*+
 on ,bruges f e "p ( ,fl&]s4 ,= a "t !  
burgh]s /ood by ! ,*tela9 & ! ,provo/1 b
 :5 ! city 0 ent]$ by /ratagem & !      
,erembalds driv5 back into ! ,b\rg !    
mass ( ! citiz5s w5t ov] to ! side ( !  
av5g]s4 ,aft] a %ort def5ce ! ,b\rg 9   
turn 0 captur$--its def5d]s fail+ to    
gu>d "o small gate by :i* _! enemies    
ent]$ unoppos$--& ! remnant ( !         
,erembalds fl$ into ! v *ur* t _h be5   
defil$ by _! k9sm5's crime1 ,/4         
,donatian4 ,"h1 = a "t1 !y 7 left 9     
peace :ile ! victors pillag$ ! ri*      
palaces 9 ! anci5t ,b\rg4  ,! day be=e !

 capture ( ! ,b\rg ,b]tulph1 ! ,provo/  
manag$ to escape & fl$ to a little      
village ne> ,ypres4 ,"h1 aft] rema9+ 9  
hid+ = "s ?ree weeks1 he 0 captur$4 ,!  
next morn+ he 0 br\ght to ,ypres1 walk+ 
on foot all ! way1 al?\gh a horse 0 (f]$
 him4 ,t he 0 go+ to 8 dea? he well     
knew1 & ask$ = a prie/ to :om he        
confess$4 ,! old man--:o _h be5 a s(t1  
luxuri\s prelate1 pr\d & haughty 9 8    
days ( p[]--made 8 la/ j\rney l a m>tyr4
 ,z ! prison] & 8 captors ne>$ ! gates (
 ! city a great ?rong came =? to meet   
!m1 beat+ ! ,provo/ ) _! /aves & fi/s & 
pelt+ him ) ! heads ( fi%4 ,arriv$ 9 !  
m>ket-place he /ood amid ! huge je]+    
?rong1 n "o ( :om look$ ) pity on him1 &
 !re1 = 8 great] %ame1 he 0 fa/5$ nak$  
to a cross l a common ?ief4 ,on 8 refus+
 9 a /eadfa/ voice to reveal ! names (  
any ( ^? implicat$ 9 ! ,c\nt's murd]1 ^?
 :o 7 assembl$ 9 ! m>ket-place to sell  
fi% tore 8 fle% ) _! iron hooks1 & beat 
him ) rods1 & ?us !y put an end to 8    
days4  ,! news ( ?is trag$y 0 br\ght to 

! little b& /ill be+ besieg$ at ,/4     
,donatian & caus$ great grief & t]ror4  
,( ! v consid]able army ( ,erembalds &  
_! p>tisans :o _h tak5 refuge 9 ! ,b\rg 
only ?irty n[ rema9$1 mo/ hav+ be5      
kill$1 :ile "s no d\bt _h escap$4 ,k+   
,l\is1 ) a ho/ ( ,fr5* knights1 _h jo9$ 
! m5 ( ,fl&]s 9 ! attack & x 0 se5 t    
fur!r resi/ance 0 hopeless4 ,! only t]ms
 7 in/ant surr5d] or in/ant dea?1 & z !y
 look$ across ! c\ntry f ! *ur* t[] !y  
c\ld see no hope ( succ\r & surr5d]$4   
,aft] keep+ !m prison]s = a =tnight1    
,l\is direct$ t all save "o1 :o 0 (     
some:at nobl] l9eage ?an ! re/1 %\ld be 
flung f ! t[] ( ! n[ ?rice hi/oric ,/4  
,donatian4 ,?is s5t5ce 0 duly c>ri$ out4
 ,! cruel soldi]s told ! condemn$ t !y 7
 ab\t to receive a pro( ( ! ,k+'s m]cy &
 !y rema9$ ignorant ( _! t]rible fate   
until1 "o aft] ano!r1 !y /ood on ! l(ty 
t[] ov]look+ ! city = a brief mom5t & 7 
!n da%$ d[n headlong to ! jagg$ pavem5t 
bel[4 ,! bodies 7 d5i$ ,*ri/ian burial &
 ?r[n into a m>% outside ( ! city1 & x  

is relat$ t = _m ye>s !reaft] no man    
aft] nightfall w\ld will+ly pass t way4 
,! h\se ( ,erembald 0 well-nigh         
annihilat$ dur+ ?is %ort1 b sangu9>y1   
w>4 ,! sole survivor ( ! b& captur$ 9 ! 
*ur* 0 behead$ by ,k+ ,l\is z soon z he 
cross$ ! ,fr5* fronti]1 :ile mo/ ( !    
great names 9 ! family 7 he>d ( 9 ,fl&]s
 no m--"s hav+ p]i%$ 9 battle1 o!rs 9   
exile4 ,only "o1 ,hacket ! ,*tela91     
return$ aft] ! cry = v5geance _h di$    
d[n1 0 plac$ on trial = ! murd]1 prov$ 8
 innoc5ce1 & ev5tually recov]$ mu* ( 8  
=m] p[] & weal?4 ,! *>ge ( s]fdom 0 nev]
 rais$ aga91 & 8 desc5dants = _m        
g5]ations /ood high 9 ! rolls ( !       
,flemi% nobility4  ,! *ur* ( ,/4        
,donatian no long] /&s1 hav+ be5 de/roy$
 dur+ ! ,fr5* ,revolution4 ,9 ! small   
museum ( antiquities 9 ! ,halles adjac5t
 to ! ,belfry we 7 %[n "s /one rail+s1  
c>v$ 9 imitation ( ru/ic woodwork1 t !  
conci]ge assur$ u _h come f ! ru9s ( !  
fam\s *ur*4 ,f a pa9t+ made 9 #agaj !   
/ud5t c obta9 a fair idea ( ! appe>ance 

( ! /ructure1 :i* c h>dly be said to h  
be5 impos+ ext]nally4 ,x /ood opposite !
 ,hotel de ,ville1 & ! /atue ( ,van     
,eyck 9 ! c5tre ( ! little %ad$ squ>e is
 said to m>k ! spot :]e ,*>les ! ,good  
fell at ! h&s ( 8 assass9s4 ,! /ones )  
:i* ! ,ca!dral 0 built 7 c>ri$ away1 &  
"s ( !m 7 us$ to build a *teau a %ort   
di/ance outside ( ! city4 ,accord+ to ! 
peasants 9 ! neighb\rhood1 ill-luck has 
always foll[$ ^? :o liv$ !re4 ,if s1 !  
_s ( ! murd]$ ,c\nt w\ld seem to h be5 z
 dang]\s 9 ! n9ete5? c5tury z x 0 9 !   
twelf?4  ,e morn+ "h at ,bruges1 &      
else:]e ?r\gh\t our pilgrimage1 !       
,pr(essor & ,i salli$ =? betwe5 five &  
six o'clock to explore z _m ( ! by-ways 
& qua9t out-(-!-way corn]s z we c\ld    
be=e breakfa/4 ,! sun rises 9 ,belgium  
long be=e five1 9 fact x is light z e>ly
 z ?ree 9 ! summ] "t1 b we f\nd v few p 
a/ir1 & ^? :o 7 up 7 usually engag$ 9 ! 
morn+ scrubb+ ( floors & sidewalks--a   
fact t made u keep pretty mu* to !      
middle ( ! road on ^! exp$itions4       

,cleanl9ess is c]ta9ly hon\r$ next to   
godl9ess 9 ,belgium1 = ?is morn+        
ablution ( ! premises is univ]sal--! big
 dep>tm5t /ores at ,brussels obs]v+ !   
cu/om z fai?fully z ! t9ie/ e/am9et 9 ! 
remote/ hamlet4 ,e "o1 ri* & poor1 p]=ms
 ?is rite1 & ! t\ri/ c\ld safely eat 8  
breakfa/ (f ! door/ep ( any h\se :5 x is
 ov]4 ,nor is ! re/ ( ! int]ior         
neglect$1 = e pot & pan t we c\ld see )9
 ! little h\ses z we pass$ _! doors %one
 ) a lu/re t bespoke p]petual poli%+4   
,on ! o!r h&1 ! good vr\e h]self1 or h] 
maids]vant1 0 n s clean1 & x is 9 ?is   
respect t ! p ( ,holl& are sup]ior1 = !y
 someh[ manage to keep !mselves z       
immaculate z _! little h\ses4  ,x 0 at  
,bruges t ! ,pr(essor _h 8 fir/ exp]i5ce
 ) ! ,belgian species ( b>b]4 ,in/ead ( 
! massive recl9+ *air1 ) :i* all        
,am]icans are famili>1 "o f9ds 9 all    
p>ts ( ,belgium1 save ! big t\ri/ hotels
 & resorts1 /iff little arm-*airs )     
immovable head re/s t look z if !y c\ld 
nev] s]ve ! purpose = :i* !y are int5d$4

 ,9 po9t ( fact !y d fairly well1 once  
"o becomes accu/om$ to !m4 ,razors 9    
,belgium1 h[ev]1 are almo/ inv>iably    
dull--especially ) ! lady b>b]s :o ab\nd
 9 ! small] villages4 ,avoid ^! sir5s if
 y value y\r sk91 = !y c]ta9ly w slice  
(f a bit ( x4 ,on ,sundays & holidays1 x
 appe>s1 _! husb&s (ficiate1 b week days
 ! bett] half does h] be/ to accommodate
 ! public--b h] be/ is none too good1 & 
! exp]i5ce is usually a pa9ful "o = !   
unw>y t\ri/4  ,! %ave ov]1 ! b>b] says1 
,s'il v\s plat1 monsieur1 or its        
equival5t 9 ,flemi%1 motion+ mean:ile   
t[>d a small wa% bas9 t is plac$ 9 front
 ( ! *air4 ,to ! un9itiat$ ?is is       
some:at bewild]+1 b ! pr(essor desires t
 monsieur w k9dly wa% 8 own face4 ,!    
ablution p]=m$1 he proce$s to rub a     
piece ( alum ov] ! face1 aft] :i* he    
sprays x ) p]fum$ wat]1 !n dries & p[d]s
 x mu* 9 ! mann] ( ! ,am]ican b>b]4 ,:5 
"o becomes accu/om$ to ?is p]=mance--:i*
 co/s two to ?ree c5ts 9 ! villages &   
five to t5 c5ts 9 ! l>ge t[ns--he is apt

 to pref] x to ! ,am]ican me?od4        
,c]ta9ly x is va/ly sup]ior to ! hot    
t[el torture s des]v$ly c>icatur$ "s    
ye>s ago by ,web] & ,fields4 ,9 ! small]
 villages ( ! indu/rial prov9ces we f\nd
 t ! fir/ & second class di/9ction t "o 
enc\nt]s ev]y:]e 9 ,belgium ext5ds ev5  
to ! b>b]'s *air4 ,! r\gh clad workman  
is simply %av$--a few fi]ce scrapes ) ! 
razor & x is all ov]--& is left to wipe 
(f ! remnants ( la!r z be/ he c1 usually
 ) a r$ b&anna h&k]*ief4 ,= ?is ! *>ge  
is only two c5ts--! alum1 ! spray+ & !  
p[d] be+ res]v$ = fir/-class patrons    
only4  ,on our way back to ! hotel f ^! 
e>ly morn+ prom5ades ! ,pr(essor & ,i   
kept on ! look-out = "s patiss]ie :]e   
brio*es or cu*es au beurre c\ld be _h ) 
a pot ( c(fee4 ,?is =m$ our usual       
breakfa/ =1 x may z well be admitt$ "r  
n[1 we did n feel t we c\ld af=d !      
extravagance ( a ?ree-franc breakfa/ at 
! hotel4 ,! ladies 7 ready to jo9 u by  
eight o'clock--be=e t h\r x w\ld be     
useless to look = a place op5 =         

bus9ess--& we conduct$ !m to ! patiss]ie
 we _h discov]$4 ,! brio*e1 x may be    
rem>k$1 is a light spongy               
prep>ation--half cake & half            
biscuit--:ile ! cu*e au beurre is       
app>5tly made f a k9d ( light pie-cru/1 
roll$ ?9 & built up 9 sev]al lay]s )    
butt] betwe54 ,:5 s]v$ fre% & hot f !   
ov5 ! latt] is mo/ delici\s1 b :5 cold x
 is z t\gh & soggy z a day-old          
griddle-cake4 ,! usual *>ge = ^!        
delicacies 0 five c5times 7"o c5t7 ea*1 
& z ?ree made a v sub/antial meal1 & !  
c(fee co/ ?ree or five c5ts p] cup1 our 
total exp5diture = f\r p 0 less ?an two 
francs4 ,if1 z (t5 happ5$--9 addition to
 gett+ ev]y?+ hot & delici\s--we 7 s]v$ 
on little tables out ( doors ) a view ( 
a ca!dral or ,hotel de ,ville ?r[n 91 we
 felt t we 7 gett+ a v good b>ga9 inde$4
  ,( ! ,bruges ( ,*>les ! ,good ! mo/   
important exi/+ monum5t is ! great      
,ca!dral ( ,/4 ,sauveur1 :i* 0 rebuilt  
by him aft] hav+ be5 p>tially de/roy$ by
 fire 9 #aaaf1 ! "w be+ complet$ 9      

#aabg4 ,probably v little ( ! /ructure z
 we see x to-day dates f ?is p]iod1 z ! 
edifice has be5 enl>g$ & re/or$ _m      
times1 mu* ( x dat+ f ! f\rte5? & "p f !
 sixte5? c5tury--! era :5 ar*itecture 9 
,fl&]s fl\ri%$ z nev] be=e or s9ce4 ,!  
t[] 0 begun 9 #aaaf1 cont9u$ 9 #aceh1 & 
its upp] portions add$ dur+ ! la/       
c5tury1 s t ne>ly eight hundr$ ye>s     
elaps$ be=e x 0 f9ally complet$ 9 its   
pres5t =m4 ,_m writ]s speak ( ?is t[] z 
clumsy & unsightly1 b to me x is "o ( ! 
mo/ maje/ic & /ately /ructures 9 ,fl&]s4
 ,at any rate1 !re is no o!r t[] l x1 & 
! way 9 :i* x lifts its ca/le-l mass (  
tawny brick high above ! t9y h\ses t    
surr\nd x is pr(\ndly impressive4 ,! l[]
 "p ( ! t[] is ,romanesque1 be+1 no     
d\bt1 ! portion erect$ "u ! sup]vision (
 ,*>les ! ,good4 ,! re/ is ,go?ic1 if s 
unecclesia/ical a /yle c be s d5om9at$4 
,! int]ior ( ,/4 ,sauveur dates 9 ! ma9 
f a mu* lat] p]iod ?an ,*>les ! ,good1 &
 z we visit$ ?is int]e/+ edifice sev]al 
times an acc\nt ( its lat] con/ructions 

& pa9t+s w be f\nd 9 a *apt] devot$ m   
p>ticul>ly to ! art treasures ( ,bruges4
 ,x is n ! purpose ( ?is book to we>y ! 
read] ) detail$ descriptions ( ?is & e  
o!r monum5t 9 ,fl&]s4 ,= ^? :o are      
int]e/$ 9 ar*itectural details !re are  
num]\s works writt5 by exp]ts & discuss+
 exhau/ively--if n exhau/+ly--e feature 
( te*nical importance4 ,our little p>ty 
0 n le>n$ & ^! r&om jott+s w !re=e      
record only su* facts z seem$ int]e/+ to
 ! av]age ,am]ican visitor4 ,nor w\ld x 
be possible to attempt a detail$ acc\nt 
( ! pictures & sculptures1 ei!r at ,/4  
,sauveur or else:]e4 ,_m ( ! great      
,flemi% *ur*es are lit]ally museums (   
e>ly ,flemi% art & a m]e catalogue ( _! 
cont5ts w\ld fill _m pages4 ,= ! mo/ "p 
! works are ( m$iocre m]it1 b ne>ly e   
*ur* possesses "o or m ma/]pieces--:i* !
 un9=m$ visitor c g5]ally di/+ui% by !  
fact t a *>ge is made to uncov] !m4 ,at 
times ?is practice becomes a bit annoy+1
 p>ticul>ly :5--9 addition to pay+ !    
fee--"o has to hunt ar\nd = half an h\r 

to f9d ! sacri/an1 :o may live two or   
?ree blocks away2 b1 aft] all1 x is !   
t\ri/ :o is "u obligation = ! privilege 
( visit+ ! *ur*es :5 !y are clos$ to !  
g5]al public1 & all ! fees 9 ,fl&]s add 
only a trifle to ! exp5se acc\nt ( "o's 
t\r4  ,9 ,/4 ,sauveur on ! occasion (   
our fir/ visit we 7 especially int]e/$ 9
 a curi\s pa9t+ ( ! ,crucifixion locat$ 
9 ! ,bapti/ry & said to be ! e>lie/     
picture ( ! fam\s ,bruges s*ool 9       
exi/5ce4 ,! savants assign a date prior 
to #adjj to ?is "w1 ! au?or ( :i* is    
unkn[n4  ,! "n ( ,*>les ! ,good is also 
associat$ ) ! ,*ur* ( ,notre ,dame1 "p (
 ! pres5t /ructure dat+ f 8 reign4 ,!   
bulk ( ! edifice 0 erect$ dur+ ! f\rte5?
 & fifte5? c5turies4 ,! spire 0 begun 9 
#addj1 torn d[n & rebuilt1 be+ f9ally   
complet$ ne>ly a c5tury lat]4 ,!re is a 
leg5d t ! ar*itect1 9 despair ov] ! fact
 t x leans consid]ably to ! ea/1 ?rew   
himself f its summit4 ,at pres5t x is "o
 hundr$ & tw5ty-two metres 9 height1 :i*
 is said to be ! greate/ elevation ev]  

atta9$ by a /ructure ( ?is k9d built (  
brick4 ,x c h>dly be describ$ z         
beautiful1 ! d>k r$ ( ! top portion be+ 
out ( h>mony ) ! ri* tawny grey ( ! l[] 
"p1 b x =ms a spl5did feature 9 !       
sky-l9e ( ! city4 ,p]haps ! mo/ *>m+    
view ( x is t obta9$ f ! opposite side (
 ! ,lac d',am\r4 ,ano!r excell5t po9t ( 
view is f ! ,dyv] ) ! outl9e ( ! t[]1   
reflect$ 9 ! /ill wat]s ( ! ,roya4  ,!  
int]ior ( ?is *ur* is1 l ! t[]1 built ( 
brick1 only ! great support+ pill>s be+ 
( /one4 ,! g5]al effect ( ! int]ior is  
greatly m>r$ by a wood5 rood-l(t t      
sep>ates ! nave f ! *oir4 ,9 ?is *ur*   
!re is an int]e/+ ,adoration ( ! ,magi  
by ,daniel ,segh]s1 a pa9t] ( ! lat]    
,antw]p s*ool1 :o became a ,jesuit b    
cont9u$ to practise 8 art & 0 especially
 r5[n$ = ! fl[]s & butt]flies ) :i* he  
adorn$ 8 pictures4 ,?is "w1 :i* 0 f9i%$ 
9 #afcj1 is ?\ght by _m to be ! arti/'s 
ma/]piece4 ,ano!r notable treasure is ! 
/atue ( ! ,virg9 & ,*ild by ,mi*ael     
,angelo1 execut$ 9 #aejc4  ,illu/ration3

 ,,tomb ,,( ,,m>ie ,,( ,,burgundy1      
,,*ur* ,,( ,,notre ,,dame1 ,,bruges4  ,!
 mo/ fam\s ( ! possessions ( ,notre     
,dame1 h[ev]1 are ! sup]b tombs ( ,*>les
 ! ,bold & 8 daught] ,m>ie ( ,burgundy1 
to be se5 only by pay+ a small fee to   
ent] ! *apel 9 :i* !y are plac$4 ,t (   
,m>ie is ! old]1 & by f> ! f9] ( ! two1 
& consi/s ( a s>cophagus ( black m>ble  
^u :i* re/s a life-siz$ recumb5t figure 
( ! fam\s pr9cess--! greate/ heiress 9  
,europe--:o di$ at ! age ( tw5ty-five z 
a result ( an injury receiv$ :5 hunt+ 9 
#adhb1 less ?an five ye>s aft] h]       
m>riage to ,maximilian :o lat] became   
,emp]or4 ,at ! comm& ( h] son1 ,philip !
 ,h&some1 ?is ma/]piece ( /one & bronze 
0 begun by ,pi]re de ,beckre 9 #adie &  
complet$ 9 #aejb4 ,ar\nd ! alt>-tomb are
 exquisitely c>v$ /atues ( sa9ts &      
angels1 ) tw9+ plants & scrolls & !     
h]aldic %ields ( all ! prov9ces & n a   
few ( ! cities )9 ,m>ie's wide doma9s4  
,! figure ( ! pr9cess lies above all ?is
 ) h] h&s fold$ z if 9 pray]1 a cr[n ^u 

h] head & two h\nds ly+ at h] feet4 ,!  
bronze has be5 cunn+ly c>v$ to repres5t 
! f9e/ lace & ri*ly gild$ until x seems 
to be pure gold4 ,! body ( ,*>les !     
,bold 0 br\ght f ,nancy 9 #aeej at !    
comm& ( ,*>les ! ,fif?1 8 gr&son1 &     
eight ye>s lat] ! fun]al monum5t 0 begun
 by ord] ( ,philip ,,ii4 ,x 0 complet$ 9
 #aefb1 & is design$ 9 imitation ( t (  
,m>ie4 ,! figure ( ! t]rible ,duke is   
%[n clad 9 arm\r1 ) 8 helmet at "o side 
& a lion cr\*+ at 8 feet4  ,"h1 9 ?is   
little *apel1 said ! ,pr(essor1 "o c see
 ! beg9n+ & ! end ( ! mo/ int]e/+ p]iod 
9 ! long hi/ory ( ,bruges1 ! alpha &    
omega ( h] greatness4 ,at ! "t ( ,*>les 
! ,good ! little ,b\rg on ! ,roya 0     
sl[ly em]g+ f obscurity & beg9n+ to     
assume ! aspect ( a great capital4 ,=   
?ree hundr$ & fifty ye>s its p[] & fame 
grew until '! ,v5ice ( ! ,nor?' 0       
ev]y:]e recognis$ z "o ( ! mo/ beautiful
 & brilliant cities 9 ! _w4 ,!n sudd5ly1
 almo/ )9 ! span ( a s+le g5]ation1 !   
fickle sea ab&on$ x & x became ! quiet  

inl& city t x is to-day1 liv+ l>gely ^u 
! memories ( its spl5did pa/4 ,:5 !     
beautiful ,m>ie 0 br\ght home to !      
,pr9c5h(1 dy+ f h] fall at ,wyn&ael1 !  
decl9e _h already begun1 & :5 ! rema9s (
 h] fa!r 7 plac$ beside h] "h 9 ,notre  
,dame ! end _h already come & ! city's  
m]*ants & prosp]ity _h dep>t$4          
,,*apt] ,,iv  ,,h[ ,,bruges ,,became ,,!
 ,,v5ice ,,( ,,! ,,nor?   ,aft] ! murd] 
( ,*>les ! ,good _h be5 s ?or\ghly      
av5g$1 ! ,k+ ( ,france s\ght to foi/ "o 
( 8 own und]l+s ^u ! p ( ,fl&]s1 b !y   
w\ld h none ( him1 & he fell fight+ be=e
 ! gates ( "o ( ! ,flemi% cities4       
,di]ick ( ,alsace 0 ! popul> h]o &      
became ,c\nt on ! dea? ( ?is rival4 ,!  
,k+ ( ,france s\ght once m to int]pose1 
b ! burgh]s ( ,bruges retort$ pr\dly3   
,be x kn[n to ! ,k+ & to all pr9ces &   
peoples1 & to _! po/]ity ?r\gh\t all "t1
 t ! ,k+ ( ,france ha? no "p 9 !        
election ( a ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s4  ,( all !  
,c\nts ( ,flemi% blood ,di]ick prov$ to 
be ! greate/ & ! wise/ :o ev] rul$ ov] !

 l&4 ,dur+ 8 long reign ( =ty ye>s 7f   
#aabh to #aafh7 & t ( 8 son1 ,philip (  
,alsace1 :o rul$ until #aaia1 ! c\ntry  
prosp]$ & grew ri*4 ,bo? pr9ces enc\rag$
 comm]ce1 indu/ry & ! arts1 & 7 lib]al 9
 _! policy t[>d ! cities4 ,x 0 dur+ ?is 
,gold5 ,age ( ,flemi% hi/ory--! longe/  
p]iod ( happ9ess ! c\ntry ev] knew--t   
municipal *>t]s 7 grant$ to ! cities (  
,bruges1 ,gh5t1 ,ypres1 ,furnes1        
,gravel9es1 ,nieuport1 ,dunk]que &      
,damme4  ,:ile ! memory ( ,di]ick (     
,alsace des]ves to be fondly *]i%$ by ! 
p ( ,fl&]s z t ( a wise & lib]al rul]1 8
 mo/ fam\s exploit 0 br++ back ! relic (
 ! ,preci\s ,blood f ,j]usalem4 ,l mo/  
pr9ces ( 8 "t1 ,di]ick jo9$ 9 !         
,crusades1 b1 unlike _m ( !m1 he left 8 
gov]nm5t s /rong & secure t no h>m came 
to ! c\ntry dur+ 8 abs5ce4 ,x 0 ! second
 ,crusade1 & ,di]ick dep>t$ 9 #aadg1 &  
return$ 9 #aaej1 br++ ) him ?is relic1 a
 portion ( ! mo/ preci\s possession ( ! 
,holy ,*ur* ( ,pale/9e1 consi/+ ( a     
small cry/al vial fill$ ) :at 0 alleg$  

to be ! blood ( ,*ri/1 pres]v$ by       
,joseph ( ,arama!a :o prep>$ ! body =   
burial4 ,deem+ himself unwor?y to be> s 
holy a relic1 ! ,c\nt entru/$ x to 8    
*apla91 :o nev] p>t$ ) x until ! return+
 crusad]s deliv]$ x to ! *apla9s ( !    
c\rt :o plac$ x 9 ! *apel built by      
,baldw9 ( ! ,iron ,arm1 :]e x /ill      
rema9s 9 its orig9al receptacle4  ,on ! 
#bnd ( ,may e ye> f #acjc until n[--save
 = a brief int]ruption dur+ ! /ormy     
times ( ! ,fr5* ,revolution--! city (   
,bruges has celebrat$ its possession (  
?is holy relic by ! great ,procession ( 
! ,holy ,blood4 ,at fir/ simply a       
religi\s c]emony1 ! procession gradually
 took on spectacul> features su* z !    
,flem+s love1 includ+ repres5tations ( !
 ,apo/les1 ! ,nativity1 ,k+ ,h]od1 & s  
on4 ,at pres5t ,la ,noble ,confr]ie du  
,precieux ,sang1 or ,hon\rable ,society 
( ! ,holy ,blood1 is a v weal?y &       
ari/ocratic organisation1 ev5 its       
affiliat$ memb]s--( :om !re are sev]al  
?\s&s1 ( e nationality--e/eem+ _!       

connection ) x a great hon\r4  ,dur+ !  
,fr5* ,revolution mobs /ripp$ ! *apel ( 
ev]y?+ t c\ld be torn d[n or brok51     
leav+ x su* a wreck t ! municipal       
au?orities 7 consid]+ te>+ x d[n1 b 7   
happily prev5t$ f do+ s by ,napoleon4 ,!
 l[] *apel 01 h[ev]1 us$ z a jail =     
drunk5 & disord]ly p]sons--& ev5 z a    
p\nd = /ray dogs--until #ahah4 ,! upp]  
*apel mean:ile 0 ro(less & w9d[less1 a  
sad wreck ( s anci5t & fam\s a /ructure4
 ,bo? h s9ce be5 re/or$1 ! l[]--or      
,*apel ( ,/4 ,basil--be+ n[ j z x 0 9   
#aaej1 &1 9 ! op9ion ( _m critics1 ! mo/
 beautiful & p]fect specim5 (           
,romanesque ar*itecture 9 ,europe4 ,we  
_h already inspect$ ! l[] *apel :ile    
explor+ ! ,vieux ,b\rg ( ,baldw9 ( !    
,iron ,arm our fir/ day at ,bruges1 b _h
 n sp5t mu* "t 9 ! upp] "o4 ,"h ! mo/   
int]e/+ object 0 naturally ! *asse1 or  
casket1 conta9+ ! holy relic aft] :i* ! 
*apel is nam$4 ,?is is on "o side ( !   
little museum ( ! *apel & is (          
silv]-gilt1 /&+ f\r feet1 ?ree in*es    

high4 ,x 0 made 9 #afag by a silv]smi? (
 ,bruges &1 :ile n reg>d$ z a ma/]piece 
( its k9d1 is v graceful & elegant4 ,!  
*apel itself is ri*ly decorat$ & has "s 
excell5t /a9$ glass w9d[s1 all ( ?is "w 
dat+ f ! middle ( ! la/ c5tury4  ,adjo9+
 ! ,*apelle du ,sa9t-,sang is ! ,hotel  
de ,ville4 ,?is /ructure is a v f9e     
example ( ,flemi% municipal ar*itecture1
 dat+ f ! la/ qu>t] ( ! f\rte5? c5tury4 
,"h ! ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s =m]ly took ! oa?  
to respect ! rights & privileges ( !    
city1 ?is =mality tak+ place 9 ! la/    
w9d[ to ! "r4 ,orig9ally !re 7 /atues ( 
=m] pr9ces on ! faade & six ( ^! 7      
col\r$ by ,jean ,van ,eyck 9 #adce4 ,all
 7 de/roy$ dur+ ! ,revolution4 ,"p ( !  
int]ior is /ill us$ by v>i\s gov]nm5t   
(ficials1 :ile up-/airs ! t\ri/s usually
 visit ! anci5t ,salle ,e*9ivale1 or    
,c\ncil ,*amb]4 ,?is 0 re/or$ 9 #ahie & 
decorat$ ) a s]ies ( twelve mural pa9t+s
 repres5t+ notable sc5es 9 ! hi/ory ( ! 
city4 ,( ^! elev5 are by ,albre*t de    
,vri5dt1 & ! la/ by 8 bro!r1 ,julian1 ! 

fir/ arti/ dy+ j be=e 8 "w 0 complet$4  
,z ^! pictures =m an int]e/+ epitome ( !
 hi/ory ( ! city1 ! subjects are giv5   
h]e)3          #a4--,return ( !         
,brugeois f ! ,battle ( ! ,gold5        
,spurs at ,c\rtrai 9 #acjb4             
#b4--;,f\ndation ( ! ,ord] ( ! ,gold5   
,fleece by         ,philip ( ,burgundy  
at ,bruges 9 #adcj4                     
#c4--;,di]ick ( ,alsace br++ ! ,holy    
,blood to !         *apel ( ,/4 ,basil 9
 #aaej4          #d4--,! int]ior ( !    
anci5t ,hospital ( ,/4 ,jean4           
#e4--,magi/rates ( ,bruges r5ew+ !      
privileges ( !         ,hanseatic       
,league4          #f4--;,c\nt ,philip ( 
,alsace grant+ a *>t] to ,bruges        
7#aaij74          #g4--,magi/rates      
visit+ ! ,/udio ( ,jean ,van ,eyck      
7#adcc74          #h4--,! pr9t+ by      
movable type 9 ,bruges by ,jean         
,britto 9 #addf4          #i4--;,c\nt   
,l\is ( ,maele lay+ ! f\ndation ( !     
,t[n-hall 7#acgf74                      
#aj4--;,jacob ,van ,ma]lant1 fa!r (     

,flemi% poetry1 born         at ,damme4 
#aa4--,! ,free-fair4                    
#ab4--,op5+ ( ! new ,zwyn canal 9 #adjd4
  ,illu/ration3 ,palais du ,franc1      
,bruges  ,"o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ ( ! almo/  
innum]able m$ival build+s 9 ,bruges is !
 ,palais du ,franc :i*1 ) its _m qua9t  
turrets & gables1 ov]looks ! fi% m>ket  
on ! ,quai ,v]t4 ,! associations &      
hi/ory ( ?is sumptu\s bit ( sixte5?     
c5tury ar*itecture date f ! twelf?      
c5tury--#aaij to be exact--:5 ,philip ( 
,alsace grant$ a *>t] to ! region /ret*+
 to ! nor?w>d f ! city to ! sea1 & f    
,a>d5burg 7n[ j across ! ,dut* fronti]7 
to ,dixmude4 ,?is wide tract ( t]ritory 
0 call$ ! ,franc or ,lib]ty ( ,bruges1 &
 compris$ n9ety-"o p>i%es & ! t[ns (    
,o/5de1 ,blank5burghe1 ,eccloo1         
,lissweghe1 ,a>d5burg1 ,sluys &         
,dixmude4 ,( ^! only ! fir/ two are kn[n
 to ! t\ri/s ( ! pres5t day1 :ile "o mu/
 ne$s se>* ! map v closely to f9d "o or 
two ( ! o!rs at all1 b 9 ! "t ( ,philip 
all 7 busy c5tres ( trade & indu/ry4    

,?is 0 ! h]$it>y l& ( ! ,k>ls1 ^: revolt
 aga9/ ! attempt ( ,*>les ! ,good to =ce
 !m "u ! feudal yoke co/ t mon>* 8 life4
  ,! *>t] 0 call$ ! ,keurbrief & laid ! 
f\ndation = ! adm9i/ration ( a code (   
ju/ice t1 rude z x 01 meant lib]ty = ^? 
:o o!rwise w\ld h be5 utt]ly at ! m]cy (
 any feudal "l or w&]+ knight4 ,x 0 !   
,magna ,c>ta ( a l>ge "p ( ! ,c\nt's    
dom9ions & ev5 its /]n eye-=-eye &      
life-=-life doctr9e 0 temp]$ by         
equival5ts 9 ca% t might be paid4 ,!    
life ( a ,k>l 0 wor? twice z mu* z t ( a
 monk or prie/1 :ile = ea* injury !re 0 
an appropriate f9e4 ,he :o broke a dyke 
mu/ lose ! h& t did ! damage1 besides   
=feit+ all 8 goods2 = false weights !   
p5alty 0 a f9e ( ?ree livres = ea*      
(f5ce4 ,f5c+ "o's prop]ty aga9/ game    
entail$ br&+ ) a r$ hot iron1 or trial  
by ! ,c\nt--:o might confiscate ! goods 
( ! guilty p>ty1 b 8 life & lib]ty 7 to 
be safe4 ,?is cruel game law 0 n repeal$
 = ne>ly ?ree c5turies1 & mu/ h entail$ 
mu* h>d%ip4 ,on ! :ole1 h[ev]1 ! *>t] 0 

lib]al = its day1 & ! c\ntry "u x       
fl\ri%$ exce$+ly--a sure evid5ce ( wise 
laws4  ,! ,keurbrief 0 adm9i/]$ by !    
,magi/rates ( ! ,franc 9 ! ,palais du   
,franc1 :i* 0 !re=e a sort ( special    
c\rt4 ,! pres5t edifice is n ! "o erect$
 by ,philip1 or us$ by him = ! purpose1 
b dates f ! e>ly "p ( ! fifte5? c5tury4 
,"p ( x is /ill us$ z ! ,palais de      
,ju/ice1 b t "p ( ! pres5t /ructure is =
 ! mo/ "p mod]n4 ,! mo/ int]e/+ portion 
( ! edifice1 & ! only "o %[n to t\ri/s1 
is ! ,c\rt ,room conta9+ ! magnific5t   
,*em9e du ,franc1 or *imney-piece1      
erect$ 9 hon\r ( ! ,ladies' ,peace      
negotiat$ by ,m>g>et ( ,au/ria :ile     
,reg5t ( ! ,ne!rl&s 9 #aebi4 ,! "w 0    
execut$ f designs by ,lancelot          
,blondeel1 a pa9t] ( ,bruges1 & 0       
complet$ 9 #aecj4 ,! fireplace itself is
 ( black m>ble1 surm\nt$ by a frieze 9  
:ite m>ble conta9+ f\r bas-reliefs      
repres5t+ ! hi/ory ( ! *a/e ,suzanne4   
,"o _c b wond] :at 0 ! connection (     
?\ght t sugge/$ ?is /ory 9 conjunction )

 ! commemoration ( ! ,treaty ( ,cambrai1
 b at all ev5ts "h x is4 ,! reliefs are 
( v>y+ excell5ce1 ! "o %[+ ,suzanne ab\t
 to be seiz$ by h] ag$ admir]s be+ v %>p
 & cle>1 :ile ! f\r? :i* %[s ! culprits 
be+ /on$ to dea? is r indi/9ct4  ,! upp]
 "p ( ! monum5tal *imney is ( oak &     
occupies almo/ ! entire side ( ! room4  
,9 ! c5tre /&s ,*>les ,v1 repres5t$ z a 
,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 ne>ly life size & f9ely 
c>v$4 ,at 8 "r are /atues ( ,maximilian 
& ,m>ie ( ,burgundy1 & at ! left ,f]d9& 
( ,aragon & ,isabella ( ,ca/ile--^! be+ 
! ,emp]or's ance/ors on 8 fa!r's & "m's 
sides respectively4 ,on ! ?rone beh9d ! 
,emp]or are ! bu/s ( ,philip ! ,h&some &
 ,joanna ( ,spa91 8 fa!r & "m1 & bel[ ^!
 are ! portraits 9 small m$allions (    
,*>les de ,lannoy1 :o won ! victory (   
,pavia :]e ,francis ,i1 ! ,k+ ( ,france1
 0 captur$1 & ,m>g>et ( ,au/ria1 :o     
negotiat$ ! treaty4 ,z ! la/ m5tion$    
portrait is almo/ invisible 9 ! %ad[ ( !
 ,emp]or x h>dly seems z ?\gh !         
*imney-piece does ju/ice to ! loyal &   

tal5t$ woman ^: successful diplomacy !  
entire "w is int5d$ to commemorate4 ,z  
an example ( sixte5?-c5tury wood-c>v+1  
h[ev]1 & z a mo/ important hi/orical    
monum5t1 ?is *imney-piece is by no means
 ! lea/ int]e/+ ( ! _m ?+s to be se5 at 
,bruges4  ,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,belfry1   
,,bruges4  ,unlike mo/ t\ri/s1 !        
,pr(essor seem$ to be 9 no hurry to     
inspect ! fam\s ,belfry1 al?\gh we _h   
pass$ x a score ( times dur+ our /ay4   
,fac+ ! ,gr&e ,place1 & t[]+ ?ree hundr$
 & fifty-?ree feet into ! air1 x c\ld n 
be ov]look$1 :ile its l\d *imes--:i*    
rang e qu>t] ( an h\r1 & c be he>d = _m 
blocks ar\nd--insur$ t x c\ld n be      
=gott54 ,moreov]1 we m ?an once took our
 ev5+ meal at a little re/aurant j      
across ! ,place f x & saw its graceful  
octagonal p>apet on "o occasion outl9$  
aga9/ ! fa/-fly+ grey cl\ds ( a summ]   
/orm & ! next day aga9/ ! blue sky ( "o 
( ! few p]fect ,june days x 0 our =tune 
to enjoy4 ,too soon1 he said1 9 answ] to
 our inquir+ glances--! ,belfry belongs 

to ! p]iod ( ,bruges' spl5d\r1 :ile !   
build+s we h se5 ?us f> date f ! =mative
 p]iod :5 %e 0 /ill little m ?an a      
=tress on a m>%4  ,! orig9al /ructure   
dates f ! v e>ly ,c\nts (               
,fl&]s--possibly f ! "t ( ! fir/        
,baldw9--b 0 practically de/roy$ by a   
fire 9 ! ye> #abhj4 ,x 0 !n t ! pres5t  
edifice 0 begun1 at a p]iod :5 !        
comm]cial & indu/rial importance ( !    
city 0 already v great4 ,! city's seal &
 ar*ives 7 /or$ 9 a /rong room )9 !     
belfry walls1 :]e f\r wr\ght iron doors 
secur$ by t5 locks & t5 keys gu>d$ !m   
aga9/ ab/raction by ! emiss>ies ( "s    
,c\nt :o might desire to curtail !      
privileges ( ! city4 ,eight ( ^! keys 7 
kept by ! deans ( ! eight lead+         
guilds--! but*]s1 bak]s1 %oemak]s1      
tailors1 weav]s1 brok]s1 c>p5t]s &      
blacksmi?s--:o ?us virtually controll$ !
 gov]nm5t4 ,?is room ! ,pr(essor desir$ 
to see above all else 9 ! old /ructure4 
,we f\nd ! f\r wr\ght iron doors1 b !   
ar*ive *amb] no long] conta9s ar*ives or

 ! city's seal4 ,x 0 a mo/ int]e/+ old  
room1 nev]!less1 & "o t ought to        
p>ticul>ly int]e/ ! build]s ( !         
elaborate burgl>-pro( & e>?quake-pro(   
vaults t ext5d bel[ s _m great bank+    
h\ses 9 ,am]ica4 ,alas6 nei!r ! f\r     
doors nor ! t5 locks r5d]$ ?is anci5t   
/rong-room = ! protection ( ! city's    
lib]ties pro( aga9/ ! cunn+ & p[] (     
tyrants1 & ! preci\s *>t]s x once held 7
 gradually tak5 away1 despite ! /\t     
h&iwork ( "o ,erembald1 blacksmi?1 :o   
receiv$ eighty-"o p\nds = =g+ ! doors 9 
! ye> #abij4  ,to rea* ! bells "o m\nts 
a /eep1 d>k /aircase :i* is said to     
conta9 f\r hundr$ & two /eps1 al?\gh we 
did n c\nt !m4 ,! *imes are claim$ to be
 ! f9e/ 9 ,europe1 & comprise =ty-n9e   
bells weigh+ 9 ! aggregate fifty-six    
?\s&1 "o hundr$ & sixty-six p\nds4 ,!y 7
 ca/ by ,george ,dum]y 9 #agdc & are    
not$ = _! s(t tone4 ,! tamb\r :i*       
op]ates ! *imes t r+ e qu>t] ( an h\r   
weighs n9ete5 ?\s&1 n9e hundr$ &        
sixty-six p\nds & is pi]c$ by ?irty     

?\s&1 five hundr$ squ>e holes 9 :i* are 
fix$ ! pegs t pull ! /r+s comm&+ !      
hamm]s hang+ outside ! bells4 ,by alt]+ 
! position ( ^! pegs ! tunes c be v>i$1 
b ! programme play$ :ile we 7 9 ! city 0
 z foll[s3  ,at ! h\r3 ,rondo1 #ae?     
sonata1 by ,moz>t2 at ! qu>t] pa/3 ,le  
,c>illon de ,dunk]que1 a popul> air2 at 
! half3 ,! ,day ( ,happ9ess1 by ,moz>t2 
at ! ?ree-qu>t]s pa/3 ,! ,?ree ,drumm]s1
 a ,flemi% popul> air4 ,! (ficial       
bell-r+] is ,m4 ,toon ,nauwela]ts1 a    
native ( ,li]re1 :]e 8 ance/ors h be5   
bell-r+]s = m ?an a hundr$ ye>s4 ,al?\gh
 a "y man1 ,m4 ,nauwela]ts won an       
int]national competition ( bell-r+]s    
organis$ by ! city ( ,bruges 9 #aiaa4   
,! view f ! summit ( ! ,belfry is "o ( !
 mo/ sup]b 9 ,fl&]s1 especially if !    
visitor is s =tunate z to h fall5 on "o 
( ^? days :5 ! cl\ds roll 9 great fleecy
 masses ( dazzl+ :ite t =m a wondr\s    
backgr\nd = ! grim grey t[] ( ,/4       
,sauveur & ! tap]+ r$ spire ( ! ca!dral4
 ,z "o looks d[n ^u ! sea ( t9y r$-ro($ 

h\ses f> bel[ he is transport$ 9 fancy  
to ! "t1 c5turies ago1 :5 wat*m5 pe]$ (f
 across ^! v p>apets day & night to s\nd
 ! al>m ( an approa*+ foe1 or ann\nce ! 
approa* ( _! mighty ,c\nt or "s noble   
visitor4 ,9 s do+ he c realise :at ! old
 ,belfry has meant to ! city on ! ,roya4
 ,= six hundr$ ye>s1 wrote ,m4          
,gilliodts1 "o ( ! city's le>n$         
ar*ivi/s1 ?is belfry has wat*$ ov] !    
city ( ,bruges4 ,x has beheld h]        
triumphs & h] failures1 h] glory & h]   
%ame1 h] prosp]ity & h] gradual decay1  
&1 9 spite ( s _m vicissitudes1 x is    
/ill /&+ to be> witness to ! g5ius ( our
 =efa!rs1 to awak5 alike memories ( old 
times & admiration = "o ( ! mo/ spl5did 
monum5ts ( civic ar*itecture :i* !      
,middle ,ages h produc$4  ,! be/ "t (   
all 9 :i* to /udy & admire ! ext]nal    
aspect ( ?is noble /ructure is :5 ! sun 
is s9k+ to re/ & its rays fall slant+ly 
across ! sombre pile ( tawny brick1 t\*+
 up its projections "h & !re ) high     
lights t contra/ %>ply ) ! deep %ad[s   

beh9d !m1 & li/5--z did s (t5 our poet  
,longfell[--to ! wond]fully sweet *imes 
z !y r+ ! qu>t] h\rs3      ,l[ & l\d &  
sweetly bl5d$1     ,l[ at times & l\d at
 times1     ,& *ang+ l a poet's rhymes  
,r+ ! beautiful wild *imes     ,f !     
,belfry 9 ! m>ket     ,( ! anci5t t[n ( 
,bruges4  ,! ,halles !mselves1 ( :i* !  
,belfry is ! *ief ornam5t1 are notable =
 _! consid]able size1 =m+ a rectangle "o
 hundr$ & =ty-?ree feet broad & two     
hundr$ & sev5ty-six feet deep4 ,!       
ar*eological museum 9 "o w+--:i* is 9   
c\rse ( removal to ! ,gruu?uise         
,palace--enabl$ u to see ! int]ior ( !  
/ructure1 ! ext5t ( :i* indicates !     
volume ( bus9ess t 0 transact$ !re :5   
,bruges 0 kn[n z ! ,v5ice ( ! ,nor?4 ,! 
great comm]cial activity ( ,bruges dur+ 
! p]iod ( its prosp]ity1 f ! twelf? to !
 fifte5? c5turies1 0 due prim>ily to !  
fact t ! ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s decre$ t x %\ld
 be ! sole port ( entry = ! entire      
c\ntry4 ,! burgh]s quickly p]ceiv$ !    
priceless value ( ?is privilege1 & by _!

 ent]prise & lib]ality made ! city !    
=emo/ metropolis 9 ,europe 9 ! volume & 
v>iety ( its int]national trade4 ,)     
,london its relations 7 especially      
intimate & cordial1 ea* city grant+ to !
 m]*ants ( ! o!r privileges t 9 ^? days 
7 almo/ unhe>d (4 ,= example1 ! m]*ants 
( ,bruges 9 "t ( w> 7 grant$ =ty days ( 
grace 9 :i* to dispose ( _! prop]ty &   
provide = _! p]sonal safety4 ,on "o     
occasion1 :ile a w> 0 actually go+ on1  
!y 7 giv5 a special truce ( n9ety days 9
 :i* to traffic freely ) ! subjects ( ! 
,k+ ( ,engl&4 ,! reason = ^! unusual    
fav\rs 0 t ,bruges 0 ! great m>ket :]e !
 wool ( ,engl&1 on :i* ! prosp]ity ( !  
c\ntry dep5d$1 0 dispos$ (4 ,n          
infrequ5tly ! ar*ives record in/ances   
:]e ! ,k+s ( ,engl& treat$ ) ! *ief     
magi/rates ( ,bruges on t]ms ( complete 
equality1 z if ) a sov]eign p[]4  ,nor 0
 ,engl& ! only c\ntry repres5t$ 9 !     
m>ket places ( ,bruges dur+ ?is p]iod4  
,! ,doges ( ,v5ice (t5 treat$ directly )
 ! ,burgoma/]s ( ! ,italian city's      

,flemi% rival1 :ile ! p[]ful ,hanseatic 
,league e/abli%$ "h _! *ief e/abli%m5t =
 ! ,ne!rl&s4 ,! li/ ( ! ,nations1 z !   
gr\ps ( =eign m]*ants 7 call$1 makes    
curi\s read+ at ! pres5t day4 ,!re 7    
,engli%1 ,scot*1 ,fr5*1 ,lusitanians1   
,ca/ilians1 ,v5etians1 ,g5oans1         
,flor5t9es2 m]*ants f ,aragon1 ,biscay1 
,lucca1 ,milan1 ,lomb>dy & ,nav>re4 ,!  
,g]man m]*ants f ! ,hanseatic t[ns (    
,lubeck1 ,hamburg1 ,cologne1 ,dantzig & 
,brem5 numb]$ no less ?an =ty h\ses 9 ! 
ye> #acfb1 :ile ! ,italian & ,spani%    
firms resid5t 9 ! city 7 /ill m num]\s4 
,_m ( ^! conc]ns 7 among ! =emo/ trad+ &
 bank+ h\ses ( ! ,middle ,ages1 )       
m]cantile transactions ext5d+ into e "p 
( ! kn[n _w & /rong en\gh f9ancially to 
loan money to pr9ces4 ,:5 ! ,duke (     
,pembroke 0 captur$ by ,du ,guescl9 9 ! 
,hundr$ ,ye>s' ,w> betwe5 ,engl& &      
,france x 0 9 ,bruges t 8 c\ntrym5      
borr[$ ! sev5ty ?\s& p\nds dem&$ z      
ransom4  ,z befitt$ ! fir/ m]cantile    
city 9 ! _w1 bus9ess me?ods 7 m advanc$ 

at ,bruges ?an any:]e else4 ,x is claim$
 t ! fir/ insurance policies ev] drawn  
up 7 devis$ & sign$ 9 ,bruges ab\t ! ye>
 #acjj4 ,a =m ( regi/ration ( l& titles 
0 9 use !re z e>ly z ! fifte5? c5tury4  
,its ,b\rse1 or c5tral ex*ange = m]*&ise
 ( all k9ds1 is claim$ to h be5 ! fir/  
ev] e/abli%$4  ,9 a s+le day 9 ! ye>    
#adef no less ?an #aej =eign vessels    
arriv$ at ,bruges ?r\gh its canals & !  
,riv] ,zwyn1 & :ile ^! 71 ( c\rse1 small
 craft z comp>$ to ^? ( ! pres5t day !re
 0 !n no port 9 ! _w t c\ld boa/ ( an   
equal quantity ( %ipp+4 ,indu/rially1 ! 
t[n 0 no less important1 hav+ "s fifty  
?\s& artisans belong+ to fifty-two      
diff]5t guilds4  ,! silt+ up ( ! ,zwyn1 
r5d]+ ! approa* & dep>ture ( %ipp+      
difficult & unc]ta91 />t$ a d[nw>d      
movem5t t 9 less ?an a c5tury de/roy$   
all ( ?is great activity & prosp]ity4   
,_h x come alone x is probable t ! /urdy
 m]*ants ( ,bruges w\ld h f\nd a way to 
ov]come ?is adv]se factor to _! cont9u$ 
success1 ei!r by digg+ a new *annel to !

 sea or by dr$g+1 b mis=tunes--z is _!  
prov]bial wont--did n come s+ly4 ,9     
#adhh1 z a result ( a conflict betwe5 ! 
city & ,maximilian1 ! /ores & ex*anges 7
 clos$ = ?ree mon?s & all bus9ess came  
to a /&/ill4 ,sev5 ye>s lat] x 0 said t 
ne>ly five ?\s& h\ses /ood vacant &     
ab&on$1 no "o c>+ ei!r to buy or r5t !m4
 ,"o by "o ! great m]*ants ( ! city     
clos$ _! c\nt+-rooms & w5t away2 "o by  
"o ! artisans dep>t$4 ,! la/ ( !        
,nations to des]t ! decl9+ city 0 !     
,hanseatic ,league1 :i* /ood by x       
loyally until #aeaf1 :5 x remov$ its    
(fices to ,antw]p1 by t "t ! ackn[l$g$  
metropolis ( ! ,nor?4  ,illu/ration3 ,,!
 ,,m9newat]1 ,,bruges4  ,! ,m9newat]1 or
 ,lac d',am\r1 is--ap>t f its exquisite 
beauty--( int]e/ z ano!r mem5to ( !     
city's =m] comm]ce4 ,?is 0 ! *ief h>b\r 
= %ipp+1 &1 no d\bt1 0 ?rong$ ) sail+   
craft1 :ile its banks mu/ h sw>m$ )     
m]*ants *eck+ _! arriv+ or dep>t+       
c>goes1 /ev$ores c>ry+ bales & boxes to 
& fro1 clumsy wagons & c>ts = transport+

 m]*&ise to ! w>eh\ses ( ! city & all ! 
v>i$ noise & bu/le ( a great seaport4 ,x
 is /rangely sil5t & des]t$ n[1 & !     
grass gr[s tall ar\nd ! r\nd t[] built 9
 #acih by ,jan van ,oud5a>de1 & ! :ite  
swans float sl[ly & maje/ically b5ea? ! 
black ar*es ( ! adjo9+ bridge :i* is    
eight ye>s old] ?an ! t[]4 ,x is said t 
he1 or %e1 :o /&s on ! c5tral ar* ( ?is 
bridge at midnight & expresses a desire 
w h ! wi% fulfill$1 b we did n try x4   
,be=e leav+ ?is *>m+ spot1 h[ev]1 we w5t
 along ! banks ( ! little lake to a po9t
 :]e1 look+ back1 we _h ! r\nd t[] & !  
bridge 9 ! middle di/ance1 ! lake 9 !   
=egr\nd1 & ! t[]s ( ! city on ! horizon4
 ,?is view is1 )\t d\bt1 ! f9e/ ! old   
t[n af=ds4  ,! visitor to ,bruges :o is 
int]e/$ 9 ! pa/ %\ld devote at lea/ half
 a day to a pilgrimage to ,damme1 di/ant
 ab\t an h\r's walk along ! canal t     
leads f ! new port ( ,bruges to ! sea4  
,9 #aahj ?is n[ all b =gott5 t[n 0 made 
an indep5d5t commune ) two burgoma/]s1 &
 = two c5turies !reaft] x enjoy$ a great

 & increas+ prosp]ity4 ,x became ! *ief 
entrept = ! great comm]cial city (      
,bruges dur+ its p]iod ( spl5d\r1 & mo/ 
( ! lead+ m]*ants ma9ta9$ (fices !re4   
,its w>eh\ses 7 cr[d$ ) m]*&ise f e     
corn] ( ,europe--w9es f ,france & ,spa91
 be] f ,engl&1 wool f ,scotl&1 silk f   
,italy1 all mann] ( clo?s & /uffs1      
spices ( all k9ds1 metals ( e v>iety    
kn[n to ! metal work]s ( ^? days1 r>e & 
preci\s goods ( e description4  ,to-day 
! v sc5e ( all ?is m]cantile activity   
has vani%$4 ,gone are ! busy w>eh\ses1 !
 docks & :>ves1 ev5 ! v h>b\r 9         
:i*--accord+ to anci5t *ronicl]s--a     
score ( %ips ( ! l>ge/ size !n built    
c\ld an*or easily4 ,all t rema9s is a   
dim9utive ,gr&e ,place surr\nd$ by      
sev]al anci5t edifices1 & ! ru9s ( a    
huge *ur*4 ,9 ! c5tre ( ! ,place is a   
mod]n /atue ( ,jacob van ,ma]lant1 call$
 ! ,fa!r ( ,flemi% ,poets4 ,fame has    
surely nev] play$ any m a/\nd+ trick ?an
 t out ( ! great ho/ :o liv$ 9 ?is busy 
comm]cial t[n 9 ! days ( its            

prosp]ity--portly burgoma/]s1 skill$ 9  
w9n+ ! plaudits ( ! populace2 %rewd1    
f>-sight$ m]*ants gr[n ri* f ! comm]ce )
 di/ant l&s2 skill$ artisans & craftsm5 
9 a hundr$ guilds--all1 all are =gott51 
:ile an obscure poet1 :om v likely _m ( 
^? :o knew him d]id$ z a fool1 is alone 
rememb]$ z ! "o great man ( ,damme4     
,fac+ ! ,gr&e ,place is ! anci5t ,hotel 
de ,ville1 :i*1 9 addition to be+ ! mo/ 
notable monum5t ( ! dead t[n1 is also an
 e/am9et :]e ! liv+ c get a little      
refre%m5t4 ,! ma9 floor ( ?is edifice is
 divid$ into ?ree l>ge rooms4 ,! fir/ "o
 is ! e/am9et1 ) its array ( bottles &  
its be] pump contra/+ mo/ incongru\sly )
 ! rema9+ ve/iges ( its anci5t gr&eur4  
,adjo9+ ?is is a l>ge1 irregul> &       
unfurni%$ room1 b>e ( ornam5tation save 
= two corbels1 or ,go?ic brackets1 :i*  
support ! ma9 raft]s ( ! ceil+4 ,^! are 
( wood1 elaborately c>v$4 ,"o repres5ts 
,van ,ma]lant 9 8 /udy1 seat$ at a desk1
 ) :at ,m4 ,hav>d calls a *a/e ,suzanne 
ba?+ 9 a tub ov] 8 head4 ,! o!r %[s ,k+ 

,david ) 8 h>p1 & is embelli%$ ) sundry 
o!r figures4  ,! rema9+ room is by f> ! 
mo/ int]e/+1 = x 0 "h t ,*>les ! ,bold  
publicly betro!d ,m>g>et ( ,york4 ,!    
room1 :i* is (ficially t]m$ ! ,salle des
 ,dlibrations1 or ,c\ncil ,hall1 has a  
f9e old fireplace said to h be5 re/or$  
dur+ ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,x is decorat$ )
 two female figures 9 hoop skirts & be>s
 ! motto ,p>c]e subjectis et debell>e   
sup]bos4 ,?is quotation f ,v]gil 7neid  
#f3hec7 s\nds r pomp\s & out ( place 9 !
 c\ncil *amb] ( ?is n[ completely       
vanqui%$ & ru9$ city1 & mu/ h seem$ s   
ev5 9 ! sev5te5? c5tury1 b x may h be5 a
 survival ( an inscription plac$ ov] !  
orig9al fireplace 9 ! days :5 ,damme d>$
 to close its gates ev5 aga9/ ! m5 f    
,bruges itself1 & ! puissant ,c\nts (   
,fl&]s _h to use =ce to compel x to op5 
!m4  ,x 0 9 ! ye> #adfh t ?is room 9 :i*
 we are n[ /&+ _h its "o great day &    
became1 = a brief space1 ! sett+ ( "o ( 
^? spl5did m$ival sc5es t b>ds &        
noveli/s s fondly recall1 & t--9 our age

 ( up-to-date inv5tions--! mov+-picture 
m5 are s busily recon/ruct+ & re-enact+4
 ,! ,pr9cess _h l&$ at ,sluys1 ne> ! m\?
 ( ! ,riv] ,zwyn1 :]e ! ,duke (         
,burgundy paid h] a brief visit 9       
secret--possibly to see :at %e look$ l1 
= ?is 0 a m>riage ( /ate & int5d$ to    
fur!r 8 f>-rea*+ ambitions4 ,probably if
 %e _h be5 z homely z a wit* ! w$d+ w\ld
 h tak5 place j ! same1 b z ! rev]se 0 !
 case ! prelim9>y inspection mu/ h be5 v
 gratify+4 ,! foll[+ day ! royal lady & 
h] company rode to ,damme 9 a fleet (   
b>ges gorge\sly decorat$ ) gold1 ri*    
velvets & r>e silks4 ,"h %e 0 lodg$ 9   
?is v ,c\ncil ,*amb] ( ! ,hotel de      
,ville1 & "h ! ,duke came 9 great /ate  
to p]=m ! public c]emony ( betro?al4 ,! 
w$d+ r+ 0 giv5 9 ! pres5ce ( ! ,engli%  
,bi%op :o _h accompani$ ! ,pr9cess1 &   
,*>les ann\nc$ t he w\ld await h]       
pres5ce on ! morr[ at ,bruges1 :]e !    
w$d+ itself 0 to be celebrat$ 9 !       
,ca!dral4  ,! w$d+ procession z x dep>t$
 = ,bruges ! next day mu/ h be5 ano!r   

brave sight = ! pr\d citiz5s ( ,damme4  
,! bride1 recl9+ 9 a litt] borne by f\r 
:ite horses1 wore a magnific5t g[n (    
clo? ( gold1 a cr[n on h] =ehead1 a     
jewell$ necklace1 & a mantle clasp$ )   
preci\s /ones4 ,ar\nd h] pranc$ h]      
ladies ( hon\r1 m\nt$ on :ite horses    
gaily b$eck$ ) crimson sat94 ,imm$iately
 beh9d ?is picturesque gr\p came five   
decorat$ *>iots be>+ a score ( beautiful
 ladies f ! ,engli% c\rt1 & foll[+ ^!   
came ! gu>d ( hon\r1 or escort1 provid$ 
by ! ,duke--a squadron ( c\nts1 b>ons & 
knights1 ) _! fai?ful squires1 _! horses
 cov]$ ) gold & silv]1 ! rid]s respl5d5t
 9 bright col\r$ velvet & ri* lace4 ,!  
good p ( ! ,middle ,ages de>ly lov$ a   
pageant1 & ?is surely 0 "o to rejoice ! 
he>t ( e citiz5 ( ,damme1 = "h 0 ! pride
 ( ! *ivalry ( all ,europe--fair ladies 
& brave m5 f ov]sea & f e corn] ( !     
great ,duke's wide dom9ions--?rong+ !   
,gr&e ,place z ! procession =m$1 & !n   
fall+ into _! respective places z ! long
 l9e pass$ out ?r\gh ! city gate &      

proce$$ on ! /raight1 tree-l9$ gr&e r\te
 t l$ to ,bruges4     ,,*apt] ,v        
,,dixmude ,,& ,,furnes   ,! t\ri/ :o    
desires to get away f ! ma9 ?or\ghf>e ( 
,european travel1 to explore out-(-!-way
 corn]s1 & discov] = himself wond]s &   
beauties t ! le>n$ ,mr4 ,ba$ek] nev]    
he>d (1 _c d bett] ?an to turn away to !
 we/w>d f ! great ,o/5de-,brussels      
express r\te & visit ! all b =gott5     
cities ( ,dixmude1 ,furnes & ,nieuport4 
,all b =gott51 t is1 9 ,june1 #aiad4 ,! 
_w has he>d ( !m s9ce1 & x w be _m      
hundr$s ( ye>s be=e x =gets !m aga96 ,^!
 little places1 :i* :5 we visit$ !m 7   
no?+ b sleepy & quiet c\ntry t[ns1 7    
great & prosp]\s cities 9 ! p]iod :5    
,bruges 0 sl[ly ris+ t[>d its z5i?1 & ! 
,pr(essor !re=e decre$ t !y mu/ come    
next on our it9]>y4 ,we accord+ly sp5t  
an ev5+ /udy+ ! correspond5ces1 or      
connections1 ( ! ,/ate ,railway & ! *em9
 de f] vic9al1 or local /eam tramway1 & 
/>t$ at daybreak ! next morn+4  ,"r "h x
 may be said t ! ,belgian ,/ate ,railway

 did its be/ to comp5sate u = :atev]    
%ortcom+s we f\nd 9 ! wea!r or 9 !      
c\ntry g5]ally4 ,p]fect its s]vice c    
h>dly be said to h be51 b x 0 excell5t &
 amaz+ly *eap4 ,our p>ty pur*as$ e two  
weeks billets d'abonnem5t t co/ u j     
=ty-"o francs ea*1 or ab\t #h4jj1 &     
entitl$ u to ride on any ,/ate-own$     
railway l9e 9 ! c\ntry day or night =   
fifte5 days4 ,^! 7 second-class1 ! ?ird 
co/+ tw5ty-?ree francs1 & fir/ sixty    
francs4 ,! la/1 by ! way1 is a useless  
luxury1 z on ! local l9es ! fir/-class  
comp>tm5ts are id5tical ) ! second-class
 except = a :ite tidy plac$ at ! back ( 
! cu%ions4 ,frequ5tly !re 0 n ev5 !     
tidy1 b ! sign1 ,res]v--,voorbeh\d51    
conv]t$ an ord9>y second-class comp>tm5t
 into fir/-class--a di/9ction t gave !  
travell] v little = 8 money1 save !     
privilege ( rid+ alone4  ,on ! ma9      
express r\tes t radiate outw>d f        
,brussels 9 e direction !re 7 a numb] ( 
rapides1 or fa/ express tra9s1 t made v 
good "t inde$--a spe$ ( a kilometre p]  

m9ute be+ ab\t ! av]age4 ,on !          
int]national express tra9s1 "s ( :i* are
 fir/-class only1 ! spe$ 0 some:at      
high]1 b ^! we nev] _h occasion to use4 
,aft] ! rapides came ! express tra9s1   
g5]ally m>k$ direct or semi-direct1     
accord+ to :e!r or n !y made any        
int]m$iate /ops be=e rea*+ _! f9al      
de/9ation4 ,^! 7 only mod]ately fa/1 &1 
if !y did /op any:]e1 l+]$ s long t ! "t
 ga9$ by _! previ\s spe$ 0 l>gely lo/4  
,!n came ! type ( local tra9 call$      
omnibus or ord9aire1 t /opp$ at e       
/ation4 ,to ! ,am]ican ^! tra9s w\ld    
seem a/\nd+ly sl[1 ev5 = a l& t is nev] 
9 a hurry4 ,ea* /op is dragg$ out1 m9ute
 aft] m9ute1 until x seems c]ta9 t ei!r 
a t]rible accid5t mu/ h occurr$ ahead1  
or ! tra9 crew has gone on /rike4       
,actually1 m ?an once1 we did see "p ( !
 crew return+ f an e/am9et h>d by :i!r  
!y _h gone to h a fri5dly glass4        
,f9ally1 h[ev]1 ! r$-capp$ /ation ma/]  
bl[s 8 :i/le & ! tra9 reluctantly pulls 
away4 ,to make a trip ( sixty kilometres

 7=ty miles7 by "o ( ^! tra9s took1 on m
 ?an "o occasion1 two h\rs & a qu>t]1 & 
! tra9 arriv$ on "t6  ,?is la/ po9t is a
 feature ( ! ,belgian railway tra9s4 ,!y
 are almo/ inv>iably on "t1 & lat5ess is
 a matt] = /rict exam9ation on ! "p ( ! 
(ficials & sev]e p5alties = ^?          
responsible4 ,h[ev]1 !re does n seem to 
be mu* cr$it atta*$ to be+ on "t :5 !   
s*$ule all[s = a /op ( f two to fifte5  
m9utes at ea* /ation4 ,! man prim>ily   
responsible = ! movem5t ( ! tra9s is n !
 conductor or eng9e] b ! *ef de g>e1 or 
/ation-ma/]4 ,he1 or 8 deputy if !      
/ation is a l>ge "o ) _m tra9s1 mu/ be  
on h& :5 ea* tra9 pulls 91 & give !     
signal = its dep>ture4 ,8 d>k-r$ cap1   
embroid]$ ) gold braid1 is !re=e 9      
evid5ce at e /ation1 & until ?is high   
function>y gives ! ^w no tra9 moves4 ,z 
x is1 ea* leaves exactly on "t--b n a   
second be=e1 no matt] if e pass5g] has  
be5 9 place & ! doors slamm$ & fa/5$ = !
 la/ five m9utes6  ,! =ego+ description 
( ! ,belgian ,/ate ,railway ref]s1 (    

c\rse1 to ! s]vice z x exi/$ d[n to !   
end ( ,july4 ,s9ce !n ! de/ruction (    
tracks1 bridges & tunnels by "o army or 
ano!r has put mo/ ( ! sy/em out (       
op]ation4 ,"o ( ! sadde/ phases ( ! w>  
is t e "o ( ! ?\s&s ( employs ( !       
,belgian ,/ate ,railway--f ! highe/     
sup]vis+ (ficial to ! humble/ track     
walk]--0 work+ fai?fully & effici5tly1 &
 plann+ ! future ( 8 frugal life1 ^u !  
assurance t promotion & an old-age      
p5sion w\ld rew>d 8 zeal4 ,?is          
obligation t[>d its employs ! ,belgian  
,gov]nm5t has ev] fai?fully obs]v$1 & 9 
! c\rse ( our travels we met _m         
middle-ag$ m5 :o told u t !y 7 look+    
=w>d to ! day :5 _! t]ms ( duty w\ld end
 & !y w\ld be p5sion$ on half pay to    
enjoy a few ye>s ( well-e>n$ repose4    
,probably n "o ( ^! m5 ev] s]i\sly      
dream$ t an ev5t c\ld occur t w\ld1 9 ! 
c\rse ( a few swift weeks1 blot out !   
record ( 8 life "w1 & deprive him ( all 
opportunity = promotion1 = p5sion1 & ev5
 = employm5t4 ,no d\bt ! dea? toll ( !  

battles on ! pla9s ( ,fl&]s has be5     
heavy among ^! c\rte\s1 capable &       
indu/ri\s m5--_m ( :om 7 liable =       
milit>y s]vice 9 "t ( w>--b let u hope t
 peace1 :5 x comes1 w br+ to ea*        
survivor 8 old po/ aga91 ) ! old good   
s]vice record un=gott51 & t he w receive
 ! p5sion he rightfully expects & t 8   
c\ntry w\ld gladly give--at la/4  ,to ^?
 :o enjoy rambl+ ?r\gh ! byways ( hi/ory
 !re is no t[n ri*] 9 associations1 yet 
less spoil$ by ! visits ( ! all b       
ubiquit\s t\ri/1 ?an ,dixmude4 ,at      
pres5t ?is little city is situat$ fifte5
 miles f ! sea1 yet all ! anci5t        
*ronicl]s av] t prior to ! ?irte5?      
c5tury x 0 a seaport ) a comm]ce ov]seas
 & a n inconsid]able fi%+ fleet4 ,z "o  
looks across ! miles & miles ( pleasant 
fields1 int]sp]s$ ) wav+ w9dmills & t9y 
villages1 ?is "p ( ! anci5t city's      
hi/ory seems utt]ly incr$ible1 b x is   
too well au!nticat$ to be disput$4 ,t5  
times1 s ! hi/ories tell u1 ,dixmude 0  
besieg$ & bravely def5d$ by its citiz5s4

 ,m ?an once x 0 de/roy$ by fire &      
rebuilt1 b at la/ ! blight t de/roy$ !  
prosp]ity ( its l>g] & m p[]ful         
neighb\rs1 ,ypres1 ,bruges & ,gh5t1     
/ruck at ! he>t ( its indu/ries z well &
 x sank by imp]ceptible degrees into its
 long sleep4  ,l ! abode ( ! ,sleep+    
,pr9cess1 ( :om ,t5nyson wrote1 "o might
 almo/ fancy t all life _h /opp$        
c5turies ago at ! wave ( "s magic w&4 ,!
 summ]'s sun & w9t]'s ra9 & sn[ ( half a
 ?\s& ye>s h left b ! fa9te/ traces on  
its old h\ses & its great p>i% *ur* (   
,/4 ,ni*olas4 ,! pride & joy ( ?is *ur* 
is its alt> scre51 or jub1 said to h be5
 design$ by ,urban ,tailleb]t1 !        
ar*itect ( ! ,*ur* ( ,/4 ,m>t9 at ,ypres
 & _m o!r celebrat$ works ( ar\nd ! ye> 
#afjj4 ,!re is also an ,adoration ( !   
,magi by ,jorda5s1 & ! usual collection 
( m9or works ( art4 ,to u1 h[ev]1 ?is   
old *ur* 0 f> m int]e/+ ext]nally ?an   
)91 its huge clock t[] resembl+ no?+    
else t we _h se5 9 ,fl&]s or else:]e4 ,!
 ,gr&e ,place1 f :i* "o c obta9 a f9e   

view ( ! old *ur* ) a r[ ( ,lilliputian 
h\ses ne/l+ bel[ x1 is big en\gh to     
accommodate all ! pres5t inhabitants ( !
 t[n 9 "o corn]4 ,9 its prime ,dixmude  
is said to h _h ?irty ?\s& inhabitants1 
& all ! room on ! ,place 01 no d\bt1    
ne$$ on m>ket days1 b x does n h a      
fifte5? ( t numb] n[1 & ! wide1         
grass-gr[n expanse ( cobble-/ones is    
entirely des]t$4  ,! jub1 or alt> scre51
 already m5tion$1 is ! "o great sight ( 
! little t[n1 & e "o asks )\t fail :e!r 
y h yet se5 x4 ,x is assur$ly well wor? 
see+1 be+ wond]fully graceful & da9ty1  
&1 p]haps1 ! f9e/ ?+ ( its k9d 9 ,nor!rn
 ,europe4 ,! o!r fam\s *ef d'oeuvre (   
,dixmude is cul9>y in/ead ( arti/ic4    
,?is is a k9d ( brio*e call$            
zieltj5skoek51 or gateaux d'ames--a sort
 ( s\l cooky1 z x 74 ,twice a ye>1 on   
c]ta9 religi\s occasions1 ! inhabitants 
( ,dixmude consume va/ quantities ( ^!  
confections1 :i* are claim$ to possess !
 prop]ty--if eat5 on ! prescrib$ days--(
 deliv]+ "o's s\l f purgatory & s5d+ x  

/raight to ,p>adise4 ,we 7 un=tunately  
unable to v]ify ?is1 z our visit did n  
come on ! "r day1 b we f\nd ! butt] (   
,dixmude--:i* has enjoy$ a great        
reputation = c5turies--to be all t 0    
claim$ = x1 al?\gh ! ,pr(essor insi/$ on
 putt+ a %ake ( salt on 81 to ! great   
horror ( ! maid :o s]v$ our d9n]4  ,_h  
"s ,madame ,!bes told u :at ! ne> future
 _h 9 /ore = ?is sleepy & qua9t old city
 we w\ld h sp5t days in/ead ( h\rs 9 x1 
b la/ ,june its importance did n seem to
 ju/ify giv+ x a *apt] s we plann$ to   
visit ,furnes ! same day4 ,to-day ! "n (
 ,dixmude has be5 he>d to ! f>!/ ends ( 
! _w1 its great squ>e e*oes to ! tramp (
 arm$ m51 its old *ur*--aft] /&+ = s _m 
c5turies--is said to h fall5 be=e ! )]+ 
/orm ( %rapnel & %ells t = days ra9$ d[n
 ^u its def5d]s4 ,x has be5 tak5 &      
retak5 by ea* side 9 ! gigantic combat m
 ?an once4 ,x is asleep no long]1 =gott5
 no long]2 &1 9 ye>s to come1 rev]5t    
visitors f _m nations w visit :at may   
rema9 ( ! anci5t t[n4 ,= ^! ! *ief      

int]e/ w n lie 9 ! walls ( ! ru9$ *ur*  
or ! relics ( ! dep>t$ jub1 if any !re  
be1 b out 9 ! op51 pleasant fields :]e1 
9 tr5*es t ! k9dly h& ( nature w        
gradually oblit]ate1 ! brave m5 ( f\r   
nations met 9 "o ( ! fi]ce/ & bloodie/  
dea? grapples ( ! great w>4  ,b la/     
,july bo? ,madame ,!bes & ! cannon 7    
sil5t1 s aga9 tak+ our fai?ful omnibus  
aft] ! d9n]--:i* we obta9$ at "o ( !    
little re/aurants ov]look+ ! ,gr&e      
,place--we next j\rney$ nor?w>d to      
,furnes1 :i* is only a few miles di/ant 
across ! flat ,flemi% pla94 ,furnes1    
accord+ to ! antiqu>ians1 dates f z e>ly
 z ! ye> #hjj1 & its day ( greatness _h 
come & gone c5turies ago4 ,its crook$   
/reets1 qua9t gabl$ h\ses1 & picturesque
 corn]s seem$ m m$ival ?an any place we 
_h visit$--surpass+ ev5 ,dixmude 9 ?is  
respect4 ,x 0 "h1 by ! way1 t ,leopold  
,i 0 welcom$ to ! c\ntry :5 he arriv$   
aft] be+ *os5 to be ! fir/ ,k+ ( !      
,belgians 9 #ahca4 ,! ,hotel ( ! ,nobele
 ,rose1 ne> ! ,gr&e ,place1 is said to h

 be5 ! ,palace ( ! ,c\ntess ,g]trude (  
,fl&]s 9 #ajic1 & if s1 mu/ be "o ( !   
olde/ h\ses 9 ,fl&]s4 ,! wid[ ( ,c\nt   
,philip ( ,alsace is also said to h     
resid$ "h 9 #abah4 ,m celebrat$1 9 ye>s 
to come1 ?an any ( ^! incid5ts1 w be !  
fact t ,furnes 0 = _m mon?s ( ! ,great  
,w> ! headqu>t]s ( ! brave ,belgian     
army1 & ! place ( resid5ce ( ,belgium's 
h]oic ,k+4  ,! great annual ev5t at     
,furnes is ! fam\s ,procession1 :i*     
takes place ! ?ird ,sunday 9 ,july4 ,x  
dates f #aajj or !reab\ts1 :51 accord+  
to ! leg5d1 ,c\nt ,rob]t ( ,fl&]s 0 on 8
 way back f ! ,holy ,l&1 br++ ) him a   
piece ( ! true cross4 ,8 voyage across !
 ,m$it]ranean1 ?r\gh ! ,/raits (        
,gibralt> & pa/ ! /ormy ,bay ( ,biscay1 
0 )\t incid5t1 b z he 0 ne>+ home a     
fe>ful /orm 9 ! ,engli% ,*annel ?reat5$ 
to s5d 8 frail b>k to ! bottom4 ,! waves
 7 runn+ m\nta9 high & all ! p>ty       
expect$ ea* mom5t to be _! la/ :5 !     
,c\nt sudd5ly be?\ght himself ( 8 holy  
relic & v[$ t1 if 8 life 7 sp>$1 he w\ld

 pres5t x to ! fir/ *ur* ( :i* he might 
see ! spire4  ,imm$iately ! /orm ceas$1 
! w9d di$ d[n1 ! sea became z smoo? z a 
mill-pond1 & z ! happy m>9]s look$ t[>d 
! %ore ( _! de> ,fl&]s a ray ( sunlight 
fell ^u ! t[] ( ,/e4 ,walburge 9        
,furnes4 ,to ?is *ur*1 !re=e1 9         
fulfilm5t ( 8 v[1 ,c\nt ,rob]t pres5t$ !
 relic1 n[ d\bly preci\s by reason ( ?is
 miracle4 ,to commemorate ?is ev5t !    
canons ( ! *ur* organis$ a procession   
:i* took place e ye> & 0 m>k$ by v>i\s  
hi/orical repres5tations ( ! return (   
,c\nt ,rob]t4 ,ab\t #afej an act (      
sacrilege committ$ by a soldi]1 :o 0    
publicly execut$ = 8 crime1 l$ to !     
procession tak+ on c]ta9 p5it5tial      
features by way ( expiation on ! "p ( ! 
city = ?is s94 ,f t "t on ! procession  
has includ$ repres5tations1 = ! mo/ "p  
by peasants dress$ up = ! p>ts1 (       
,abraham & ! ,prophets1 ! ,flight into  
,egypt1 ! ,visit ( ! ,?ree ,wise ,m5 to 
! ,cradle at ,be?lehem1 s (t5 pa9t$ by !
 arti/s ( ! ,flemi% s*ool1 ! ,/able & ! 

,bir? ( ,*ri/1 ! ,c\rt ( ,h]od1 ,jesus 9
 ! ,mid/ ( ! ,doctors1 ! ,p5it5t        
,magdal51 ! ,entry ( ,*ri/ into         
,j]usalem1 ! ,fea/ at ,cana1 ! ,g>d5 (  
,olives1 ! ,betrayal ( ,judas1 & a s]ies
 ( sc5es repres5t+ ! crucifixion1 burial
 & resurrection4 ,foll[+ ^! tableaux    
come ! p5it5ts1 walk+ mask$ & b>efoot$1 
clad = ! mo/ "p 9 br[n ,capu*9 robes1 & 
s++ or *ant+ c]ta9 l9es 9 ,flemi%4 ,_m (
 ! lead+ actors 9 ! tableaux h speak+   
p>ts1 all ( !m 9 ,flemi% & deliv]$ )    
v>y+ degrees ( hi/rionic skill to ! cr[d
 t l9es ! /reets4 ,! :ole p]=mance1 ap>t
 f its great antiquity1 is ( int]e/ z   
be+ a local & orig9al repres5tation ( ! 
,biblical /ory--a sort ( ,flemi% passion
 play1 less ref9$ & arti/ic ?an t ( !   
,swiss peasants ( ,ob]amm]gau1 b none ! 
less consci5ti\s1 e>ne/ & s9c]e4  ,at "o
 "t ,furnes rank$ next to ,gh5t &       
,bruges among ! cities ( ,fl&]s 9       
(ficial importance1 if n 9 population & 
indu/ry1 its *tell5ie compris+ fifty-two
 villages4 ,9 #abig x 0 besieg$ by      

,rob]t1 ! ,c\nt ( ,artois1 :o fell five 
ye>s lat] at ! great battle ( ,c\rtrai4 
,at ,furnes ! ,fr5* arms 7 successful & 
! city 0 captur$ & sack$1 m ?an two ?\s&
 h\ses be+ burn$ 9 two days1 accord+ to 
! contempor>y *ronicles4 ,philip !      
,bold1 ! fir/ ( ! ,burgundian ,dukes to 
rule ov] ,fl&]s1 rebuilt its            
=tifications1 & ! city 0 deem$ wor?y "u 
,philip ! ,good to be designat$ z !     
place ( resid5ce ( ! ,fr5* ,dauph91 :o  
subsequ5tly became ,l\is ,,xi1 :5 t     
rem>kable "y man 0 9 exile ?r\gh 8      
fa!r's displeasure4 ,x may well h be5 "h
 t ! wilie/ & mo/ unscrupul\s ( all !   
,k+s ( ,france plann$ t tortu\s &       
secretive policy t--/eadily pursu$ ye>  
aft] ye>--br\ght ! p[]ful ,h\se (       
,burgundy l[ at la/ & made ,france "o   
nation in/ead ( two or ?ree4  ,! qua9t  
old ,gr&e ,place ( ,furnes1 :ile small] 
?an t ( ,dixmude1 is equally            
picturesque4 ,on "o side is ! old ,meat 
,m>ket1 dat+ f ! fir/ qu>t] ( ! sev5te5?
 c5tury2 & h>d by is ! ,maison des      

,espagnols1 or ,h\se ( ! ,spani>ds1     
=m]ly us$ z a t[n-hall & erect$ 9 !     
?irte5? c5tury4 ,! pres5t ,hotel de     
,ville also faces ! ,place & is well    
wor? a visit1 al?\gh none ( its rooms   
are suffici5tly notable to m]it a       
detail$ description4 ,! anci5t          
,*tell5ie1 n[ us$ z ,c\rt ,h\se1 0 begun
 9 #afab--! ye> ! ,hotel de ,ville 0    
f9i%$--& is *iefly memorable z !        
meet+-place ( ! ,spani% ,inquisition4   
,?is body held its sessions 9 !         
ante*amb] on ! fir/ floor & n 9 ! ma9   
hall1 :i* is decorat$ by a mural pa9t+  
by de ,vri5dt repres5t+ ,philip ! ,fair 
swe>+ to obs]ve ! rights & privileges ( 
! city4 ,! e/abli%m5t ( ! ,inquisition  
by 8 namesake & gr&son1 ,philip ,,ii1   
af=ds a gha/ly comm5t>y on ! mann] 9 :i*
 t mon>* kept ! simil> pl$ges ) :i* he  
began 8 reign4 ,ano!r f9e old edifice on
 ! ,gr&e ,place is ! ,belfry1 squ>e =   
half its height1 !n octagonal1 & f9ally 
surm\nt$ by a bulb\s spire1 heavy &     
clumsy1 b none ! less exce$+ly qua9t &  

picturesque4 ,n a few ( ! anci5t h\ses  
ar\nd ! ,place & 9 ! adjac5t /reets 7   
suffici5tly m$ival to h m]it$ a visit _h
 our /ay 9 ?is f9e old ,flemi% t[n be5  
long]2 b1 s f> z we c\ld le>n1 none     
possess$ any p>ticul> hi/orical int]e/4 
,besides ,/e4 ,walburge1 already        
m5tion$--:i* 0 evid5tly plann$ to be a  
ca!dral1 b ( :i* only ! *oir 0 ev]      
complet$--,furnes possesses ! *ur* ( ,/4
 ,ni*olas1 :i* has a noble squ>e t[]1   
also unf9i%$4 ,bo? *ur*es are disappo9t+
 )91 al?\gh ! =m] is1 no d\bt1 ( great  
int]e/ to ar*itects z an example ( !    
ogival /yle1 :ile ! latt] is ,go?ic &   
dates f ! f\rte5? c5tury4 ,! *oir /alls 
9 ,/4 ,walburge are notable examples ( !
 ,flemi% woodc>v]s' art1 al?\gh f> less 
anci5t ?an ! *ur* itself4  ,if ! "t (   
y\r /ay is midsumm]1 z x w be if y come 
to ,furnes to see ! ,procession1 d n g  
away )\t a day on ! dunes at ,coxyde4   
,?is bea* is less well kn[n1 z yet1 ?an 
^? at ,o/5de1 ,hey/ & ,blank5burghe f>!r
 to ! ea/ b x is increas+ 9 popul>ity v 

rapidly4 ,a l& company1 ) head (fices at
 ,brussels1 is engag$ 9 erect+ summ]    
h\ses among ! dunes :i* look too        
,am]ican 9 ar*itecture & mann] (        
con/ruction = ?is c\ntry :]e h\ses are  
g5]ally built z if int5d$ to la/ a ?\s& 
ye>s4 ,a little *em9 de f] vic9al runs f
 ,furnes to ,coxyde4 ,9 addition to !   
spl5did bea* & ! dunes1 :i* h a dre>y   
gr&eur t is always fasc9at+1 ! %rimp    
fi%]m51 or pe*eurs de crevettes1 w make 
! %ort trip well wor? :ile4             
,illu/ration3 ,,%rimp ,,fi%]m51         
,,coxyde4  ,^! wea!r-beat5 m51 ) _! r\gh
 oilsk9 hats & suits1 are ! mod]n       
repres5tatives ( an anci5t ,flemi%      
indu/ry--%rimp fi%+ hav+ be5 c>ri$ on   
along ^! coa/s lit]ally f "t immemorial4
 ,!y are v picturesque1 bo? :ile at "w  
on horseback dragg+ 9 _! nets1 & :ile   
l\ng+ along ! %ore1 pipe 9 m\?4 ,jean   
,delv9 has a f9e pa9t+ repres5t+ !m 9 ! 
,museum at ,gh5t1 :ile "o ( ! mo/ p[]ful
 ( ,meuni]'s /atues is devot$ to ! same 
subject4     ,,*apt] ,,vi  ,,nieuport   

,,& ,,! ,,ys] ,,canal   ,:5 ! w> is ov]1
 & ! era ( commemoration beg9s1         
,belgium1 if %e is free1 %\ld erect at  
,nieuport1 close to ! great locks t m>k 
! outlet ( ! ,ys] ,canal--or at "s po9t 
along ! canal :]e ! fight+ 0 ! fi]ce/--a
 monum5t high] ?an t at ,leipzig :]e !  
,g]mans recall _! victory ov] ,napoleon1
 high] ?an ! great lion t gu>ds ! field 
( ,wat]loo4 ,at its summit %\ld /& a    
h]oic-siz$ figure 9 imp]i%able bronze ( 
a ,belgian infantryman1 "o ( !          
r\nd-capp$ demons ^: indomitable w &    
unwav]+ c\rage held ?is la/ bit (       
,belgian soil aga9/ ov]p[]+ numb]s =    
days4 ,x 0 "h t ,g]many's magnific5t ru%
 f ,antw]p to ! ,*annel ports 0 /opp$1 &
 x 0 ! la/ remnant ( ! little ,belgian  
army t1 turn+ on its foe l a lion at    
bay1 hurl$ back e assault until ! little
 ,ys] ,canal ran r$ & until1 at la/1 !  
great re9=c+ ho/s ( ! allies came4  ,!  
little /raggl+ t[n ( ,nieuport1 peaceful
 & sleepy z x look$ la/ summ]1 is n a   
/rang] to battles & sieges4 ,9 ! "t (   

,william ! ,conqu]or ,lomb>tzyde1 n[ a  
little hamlet on ! *em9 de f] vic9al    
beh9d ! dunes f ,nieuport to ,o/5de1 0 !
 %ipp+ port ( ?is region1 b great /orms 
fill$ ! h>b\r ) s& & ! citiz5s e/abli%$ 
a ,new ,port on ano!r bran* ( ! ,ys] 9  
#aafj4 ,x 0 =tifi$ ?ree ye>s lat]1 & =  
sev]al c5turies 0 "o ( ! /rong t[ns     
def5d+ ! ,l[ ,c\ntries on ! ,fr5*       
fronti]4 ,its /rategic importance made x
 ! sc5e ( _m battles & sieges4 ,x 0     
de/roy$ by ! ,engli% & _! allies1 ! m5 (
 ,gh5t1 9 #achc4 ,! lonely t[] or       
,donjon ( ! ,templ>s1 /&+ on ! edge ( ! 
t[n1 is all t rema9s ( a mona/]y ( t    
ord] :i* 0 ru9$ at t "t4  ,! city       
itself1 h[ev]1 0 quickly rebuilt1 &     
among o!r memorable sieges beat (f a    
great ,fr5* =ce 9 ! ye> #adhi4 ,9 #aefh 
! ,spani%1 "u ,cond1 beat a ,fr5* army  
comm&$ by ,tur5ne n f> f ! city4 ,ano!r 
fam\s fight be=e ! walls ( ! old t[n    
took place 9 ! ye> #afjj dur+ ! long w> 
betwe5 ,spa9 & h] revolt$ ,prov9ces4    
,c\nt ,maurice ( ,nassau1 at ! head (   

twelve ?\s& m5 f ! ,unit$ ,prov9ces1 _h 
invad$ ,fl&]s1 :i* /ill rema9$ "u ! p[] 
( ,spa91 & m>*+ rapidly f ! ,s*eldt pa/ 
,o/5de1 proce$$ to besiege ,nieuport4 ,!
 ,ar*duke ,alb]t1 ha/ily rais+ an army (
 fifte5 ?\s& ,spani>ds1 advanc$         
unexpect$ly on ! ,dut*1 :o 7 tak5       
completely by surprise4 ,p]ceiv+ t he 0 
caught 9 a trap1 ,c\nt ,maurice--9 ord] 
to give 8 m5 ! c\rage ( despair--ord]$ !
 ,dut* fleet to )draw1 & told 8 soldi]s 
t !y mu/ ei!r conqu] or be prep>$ to    
dr9k all ! wat] beh9d !m4  ,mean:ile an 
advance gu>d ( ! ,dut* army 0 driv5 back
 by ! advanc+ ,spani>ds :o1 ?9k+ !y _h  
met ! :ole army1 s5t c\ri]s to ,bruges &
 ,gh5t ann\nc+ ! victory4 ,bells 7 rung 
to celebrate ! ,ar*duke's suppos$       
success :i*1 z ! ev5t prov$1 0 a        
/rategic victory = ,nassau z x delay$ ! 
enemy sev]al h\rs4 ,x 0 ?ree o'clock 9 !
 aft]noon :5 ! advanc+ ,spani>ds f\nd   
!mselves face to face ) ! ma9 army ( !  
republic1 drawn up on ! v bea* outside !
 city walls4 ,p]ceiv+ _! /urdy ranks &  

unyield+ front ! ,ar*duke hesitat$1 b ! 
,spani>ds urg$ him n to let !m lose _!  
prey1 :om !y reg>d$ z hateful rebels &  
h]etics4  ,?us enc\rag$1 ! ,ar*duke gave
 ! ord] to advance & ! battle soon      
became g5]al4 ,! fate ( ! day 0 decid$  
by ! artill]y ( ! ,dut* :i*1 by a       
=tunate ord] ( _! f>-sight$ comm&]1 _h  
be5 lift$ (f f ! s& & m\nt$ on plat=ms  
made f b\ghs1 bru% & su* timb] z 0 h&y4 
,t ( ! ,ar*duke1 m\nt$ 9 ha/e directly  
on ! bea*1 emb$d$ itself 9 ! s& at ea*  
dis*>ge until x became useless1 :ile t (
 ! republicans became m accurate &      
deadly4 ,at ! same "t ! rays ( ! sett+  
sun fall+ directly 9 ! eyes ( ! ,spani% 
soldi]s1 :o 7 fac+ we/w>d1 bl9d$ !m &   
caus$ !m to fire wildly4 ,! ,ar*duke    
p]=m$ prodigies ( val\r1 hav+ two horses
 kill$ "u him & be+ himself slightly    
w\nd$1 b z d>kness began to fall on !   
bloody bea* ,c\nt ,maurice ord]$ a *>ge 
by a =ce ( cavalry he _h held 9 res]ve4 
,?is fre% =ce prov$ irresi/ible1 !      
,spani% l9es began to give way on all   

sides1 & ! retreat quickly turn$ into a 
r\t4 ,ev5 ! pr\d ,ar*duke _h to seek    
safety 9 flight1 & ! day1 :i* _h begun s
 auspici\sly1 end$ 9 "o ( ! greate/     
disa/]s ( ! disa/r\s w>4  ,nieuport &   
its si/] cities 9 ?is1 until lately1    
half-=gott5 corn] ( ,fl&]s 71 9 =m]     
times1 r5[n$ = o!r conte/s happily less 
bloody ?an ^! fam\s battles4 ,"h1 dur+ !
 ,middle ,ages1 fl\ri%$ a gr\p (        
societies devot$ to rhetoric4 ,9 place (
 ! /ill m anci5t t\rneys1 :]e arm$      
knights f\ght ) lance & sword1 ^!       
,*amb]s ( ,rhetoric held annual conte/s 
( oratory4 ,f "o end ( ,fl&]s to ! o!r !
 movem5t spread2 & ^! debat+ societies  
did mu* to cultivate a reg>d = le>n+ &  
dialectic skill among ! mass ( !        
population4 ,/]nly suppress$ by ,alva1  
implacable foe ( e =m ( free ?\ght1 ^!  
societies 7 reviv$ aft] ! ,spani% sc\rge
 0 )drawn1 & "s ( !m cont9ue to ! pres5t
 day4  ,! visitor :o w&]$ ar\nd ! long1 
slightly hilly /reets ( ! ,nieuport (   
la/ ,july w\ld h _h little tr\ble 9     

locat+ pl5ty ( ! monum5ts ( its fam\s   
pa/1 al?\gh ! bea* has n[ rec$$ two or  
?ree miles to ! nor?w>d & pleasant      
fields ext5d along ! edge ( ! wide m>%es
 :i* !n 7 probably "p ( ! sea4 ,a curi\s
 old ligh?\se ) a po9t$ t[] /&s ab\t    
midway betwe5 ! pres5t t[n & ,nieuport  
,ba9s1 z ! bea* t[n is call$1 %[+ :]e ! 
coa/l9e lay "s ?ree hundr$ & fifty ye>s 
ago4 ,ev5 ?is spot is n[ too f> inl& = !
 light to be se5 at sea & a new ligh?\se
 has be5 built on ! ramp>t ( dunes t    
runs1 l a m9iature m\nta9 range1 almo/  
to ,o/5de t[>d ! ea/1 & we/w>d to       
,coxyde & beyond4  ,illu/ration3 ,,t[]  
,,( ,,! ,,templ>s1 ,,nieuport4  ,our    
fir/ visit at ,nieuport 0 to ! ,t[] ( ! 
,templ>s1 a huge squ>e pile ( brick /&+ 
9 ! mid/ ( a potato pat*4 ,?is prosaic  
environm5t detract$ n a little f !      
s5tim5tal int]e/ ( ! edifice1 & we 7    
unable to get into ! /ructure1 al?\gh "o
 ( ! g5s d'armes ( ! village 0 said to h
 a key to ! l[ wood5 door at its base4  
,equally disappo9t+ 0 a visit to !      

anci5t ,halle aux ,draps1 or ,clo?      
,hall1 n[ us$ on c]ta9 days z a local   
butt] m>ket4 ,"h aga91 ! door 0 lock$ & 
no "o seem$ to "k :o _h ! key4 ,curi\sly
 en\gh1 al?\gh situat$ v close to !     
,fr5* fronti]1 we f\nd 9 ?is little t[n 
& its neighb\rs1 ,dixmude & ,furnes1 v  
few p :o und]/ood ,fr5*4 ,flemi% is !   
univ]sal language h]eab\ts app>5tly1 b x
 0 only on ?is little trip t we 7 at all
 inconv5i5c$ by our inability to speak  
x4 ,else:]e 9 ,fl&]s--ev5 at ,ypres &   
,aud5a]de1 :]e our fri5ds said we w\ld h
 tr\ble--we 7 able to make our ,fr5*    
univ]sally und]/ood4  ,on ! ,gr&e       
,place1 close to ! ,clo? ,hall1 we f\nd 
a little inn1 call$ ! ,hotel du         
,pelican1 :]e ! ,pr(essor propos$ t we  
%\ld get "s liquid refre%m5t4 ,we fail$1
 h[ev]1 to obta9 any response to our    
raps & ?umps on ! door1 & conclud+ t !  
e/abli%m5t mu/ be run = pelicans only we
 took ourselves & our patronage else:]e4
 ,! ,*ur* ( ,notre ,dame1 :i* /&s j (f !
 ,gr&e ,place1 we f\nd to be a mo/ qua9t

 & int]e/+ old /ructure dat+1 x is said1
 f ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,:ile less impos+  
ext]nally ?an ,/4 ,ni*olas at ,furnes   
its massive squ>e b>oque t[] 0 v /rik+1 
& =m$ a f9e picture 9 conjunction ) ! m 
sl5d] t[] ( ! ,clo? ,hall h>d by4 ,!    
approa* to ! ma9 entrance ( ! *ur* 0    
b5ea? "s l(ty trees & we did n see a    
solit>y human be+ ei!r outside ( !      
edifice or )9 x4 ,?is *ur* has an       
int]e/+ jub or rood l(t1 a f9e wood5    
pulpit1 & we also notic$ a curi\s w9d+  
/airway t seem$ to lead upw>d )9 "o ( ! 
pill>s at ! int]section ( ! transept & !
 *oir4 ,z ! t[] is n built at ?is po9t1 
b at "o end ( ! edifice1 x 0 q a my/]y  
:]e ?is /airway w5t & :at its purpose   
might be1 b z x seem$ exce$+ly n>r[ &   
d>k we did n explore x1 nor did we f9d  
any "o to :om we c\ld apply = in=mation 
ab\t x4  ,x 0 9 ?is *ur*1 by ! way1 or  
possibly 9 "o ( ^? at ,dixmude or       
,furnes1 t ! ,madame develop$ a viol5t  
antipa?y to a c]ta9 pa9t+ t seems to be 
"o ( ! mo/ *]i%$ possessions ( ne>ly e  

*ur* 9 ,fl&]s4 ,z old ,cotton &         
,increase ,ma!r delight$ 9 sc>+ & h>r[+ 
_! audi5ces ) ^w pictures ( ! tortures (
 ! burn+ fi]y pit1 s ne>ly e old ,flemi%
 arti/ seems to h delight$ 9 portray+   
mo/ vividly ! suff]+s & m>tyrdoms ( !   
sa9ts1 & "o subject 9 p>ticul> appe>s to
 h caught ! fancy ( e "o ( !m4 ,?is 0 ! 
behead+ ( ,john ! ,bapti/4 ,at times !  
head is %[n roll+ 9 ! du/ or mire ( !   
/reet1 at times x is repres5t$ z be+    
s]v$ on a platt]--b to "o & all ( ^!    
works ( art ! ,madame object$4 ,?is     
circum/ance add$ n a little to !        
happ9ess ( ,mr4 & ,mrs4 ,pr(essor1 :o 7 
cont9ually contriv+ to lead h] artfully 
ar\nd to inspect "s new wond]1 :i* prov$
 to be ano!r repres5tation ( ?is        
agreeable sc5e4 ,z works ( art !y 7     
ne>ly all atrocities1 b z jokes on !    
,madame !y 7 "o & all great successes1 &
 x 0 really surpris+ h[ _m ( !m !re 74  
,! ,hotel de ,ville1 a some:at          
commonplace look+ /ructure1 is said to  
conta9 a small collection ( pa9t+s1 b we

 7 unable to make any ( ! phlegmatic g5s
 d'armes :om we f\nd l\ng+ close by take
 en\gh int]e/ 9 our que/ions to in=m u  
:]e admission might be obta9$4 ,9 fact !
 :ole t[n seem$ s+ul>ly un9t]e/$ 9      
t\ri/s1 app>5tly c>+ n a bit :e!r !y    
came or /ay$ away4 ,:ile ! w> w         
und\bt$ly *ange ?is1 /ill any "o desir+ 
to visit x w d well to make ! trip f    
,o/5de or ,furnes1 return+ = ! night to 
"s po9t :]e hotel accommodations are m  
adequate4 ,9 our case we w5t ov] to     
,o/5de1 :]e !re are _m good hotels4 ,no 
d\bt a pleasant week or mon? c\ld be    
sp5t 9 ?is corn] ( ,fl&]s1 b = su* a /ay
 ! be/ plan w\ld be to g to "o ( ! _m   
little seaside resorts betwe5 ,coxyde & 
,o/5de = "o's hotel or p5sion1 & explore
 ! h9t]l& f !re4  ,! ride by ! little   
*em9 de f] vic9al f ,nieuport to ,o/5de 
is a v int]e/+ "o4 ,at ! outset ! l9e   
crosses ! huge locks t jo9 ! canals to  
,o/5de & ,furnes ) ! tidal riv] ,ys]4   
,!re are sev5 or eight bridges 9 all1 ! 
diff]5t canals & *annels be+ sep>at$ by 

t9y isl&s4 ,_h ,madame ,!bes only       
sugge/$ t we explore ! ,ys] ,canals :ile
 we 7 !re la/ ,july h[ mu* m int]e/+ ?is
 "p ( ! book w\ld be6 ,un=tunately !y   
look$ !n mu* z hundr$s ( o!r ,belgian   
canals _h look$ & we gave !m only a     
pass+ glance4 ,:ile ! newspap]s 9 _!    
acc\nts ( ! great battle ( ,fl&]s       
usually spoke ( ! ,ys] ,canal z ?\gh !re
 0 b a s+le canal1 9 reality !re are    
?ree canals t fl[ into ! t9y ,ys] ,riv] 
at ?is po9t4 ,"o ( ^! runs p>allel ) !  
coa/ to ,o/5de1 & !n onw>d to ,bruges & 
beyond2 ! second runs beh9d ! range (   
dunes we/w>d to ,furnes1 :]e x divides &
 crosses ! ,fr5* fronti] 9 two bran*es1 
"o go+ to ,b]gues & ! o!r to ,dunk]que4 
,x is ! ?ird bran* t a*iev$ immortality 
9 ! ,battle ( ,fl&]s4 ,?is runs /raight 
inl&1 at "r angles to ! o!r two1 foll[+ 
! tortu\s *annel ( ! old riv] mu* ( !   
way to ,dixmude4 ,a %ort di/ance beyond 
,dixmude ! canal ceases to foll[ ! ,riv]
 ,ys]1 :i* "h fl[s ea/w>d f a s\rce well
 across ! ,fr5* b\nd>y1 & asc5ds !      

,ys]'s small] tribut>y1 ! ,yp]le1 to    
,ypres4 ,x did n seem l v mu* ( an      
ob/acle f a milit>y /&po9t1 b brave     
he>ts c make ! mo/ ( a small advantage4 
,bel[ ! big locks ! little riv] runs 9  
its own b$ to ! sea4 ,"h ! tide 0 out ! 
day ( our visit & a few small fi%+ boats
 7 ly+ tipp$ ov] sideways 9 ! mud1 :ile 
two or ?ree ,engli% ladies 7 busily     
sket*+ ! n ov]-picturesque sc5e4 ,!re w 
be a great _m p sket*+ 9 ?is vic9ity by 
& by6  ,ab\t two miles f ,nieuport !    
tra9 passes ! *ur* ( ,lomb>tzyde1 )9 :i*
 is a /atue ( ! ,virg9 kn[n among m>9]s 
f> & wide z ! ,bonne ,mre de            
,lomb>tzyde1 & :o is dev\tly believ$    
able to protect ! fai?ful seaman f p]ils
 by sea1 to aid ! f>m] 9 8 h>ve/1 to    
cure ! sick & succ\r ! di/ress$4 ,_m are
 ! little %ips1 pati5tly c>v$ by f+]s   
h>d5$ by toil & exposure1 t h be5       
rev]5tly hung be=e ! good ,virg9's %r9e4
 ,!re are p]haps few] n[ ?an =m]ly1 b   
fai? 9 h] protection & p[] is /ill /rong
 & w probably always cont9ue to be s1 = 

! ,flem+s are int5sely loyal to ! *ur*4 
,n a few ( ^? :o visit ^! little t[ns1  
ri* 9 mem5toes ( ! pa/1 b o!rwise       
app>5tly v sleepy & dull1 wond] :at !   
inhabitants d = amusem5t4 ,no "o :o has 
ev] sp5t a ,sunday 9 a ,belgian c\ntry  
village ne$ ask ?is "q4 ,f "o end ( !   
c\ntry to ! o!r1 9 ! ,bor9age or m9+    
prov9ces ( ! s\?we/ z well z 9 ! ,flemi%
 c\nties ( ! nor?1 ! male population    
devotes ! great] "p ( ! day to :at may  
unhesitat+ly be t]m$ ! ,belgian national
 sport--ar*]y4 ,9 ! e>ly "p ( ! ,middle 
,ages ,flemi% ar*]s 7 z fam\s z !       
longb[m5 ( ,m]rie ,engl&1 & on _m a h>d 
f\ght field !y gave a good acc\nt (     
!mselves4 ,curi\sly en\gh1 ! ar*]y      
societies into :i* !y =m$ !mselves =    
practice h surviv$ all ! w>s & *anges ( 
! c5turies1 h cont9u$ 9 spite ( !       
inv5tion ( gunp[d] & ! p]fection (      
fire>ms--an indu/ry 9 :i* ,lige1 9 s\!rn
 ,belgium1 has l$ all o!r cities--& seem
 to be z vital a "p ( ! national life ( 
! c\ntry z ev] !y 74 ,! fact t ! b[ &   

arr[ is an ana*ronism tr\bles y\r       
,belgian peasant n at all2 he %\ld]s 8  
long b[ z *e]fully on a ,sunday morn+ z 
if he 7 c>ry+ ! late/ model ( smokeless 
p[d] repeat]1 ) ,maxim sil5c] & all     
mod]n improvem5ts1 in/ead ( a weapon t 0
 out ( date & useless five hundr$ ye>s  
ago4  ,z practis$ 9 ,belgium1 ar*]y     
conte/s are c>ri$ on 9 two ways4 ,!re is
 fir/ :at is kn[n z ! ,tir  l'oiseau or 
,p]*e4 ,9 ! c5tre ( ! village gre5 ( !  
small] t[ns1 & 9 "s op5 space 9 !       
suburbs ( ! l>g] places1 ! travell] _c  
fail to notice :at looks l a flag pole1 
! top ( :i*1 h[ev]1 tap]s to a sl5d]    
po9t1 f j b5ea? :i* f\r %ort arms po9t  
upw>d diagonally1 :ile ?ree cross arms  
are plac$ horizontally bel[ !m4 ,on ^!  
are fix$ ! oiseaux1 or birds--blocks (  
cork cov]$ ) t9sel or gaily-col\r$ pap]1
 ea* ) a tuft ( fea!rs /uck at ! top4 ,!
 ar*]s ga!r bel[ ! pole & %oot upw>d1   
aim+ at ! birds & endeav\r+ to knock !m 
(f cleanly4 ,ea* %oots 9 turn1 & !      
prizes--:i* h be5 duly ann\nc$ by po/]s 

= days be=eh&--g to ^? captur+ "o ( !   
birds1 ! value v>y+ accord+ to its      
position4 ,9 ! conte/s entitl$ ,tir du  
,roi1 ! ar*] br++ d[n ! la/ bird w9s !  
l>ge/ prize & is call$ ! ,roi1 or ,k+1 &
 z by t "t ! ar*]s h "o & all consum$ a 
goodly portion ( _! fav\rite bev]ages   
!re is g5]al hil>ity--especially if !   
victor is a popul> fav\rite4 ,immemorial
 cu/om decrees t ! ,k+ %\ld deal        
lib]ally ) 8 subjects & disp5se 9       
libations :atev] sum he may h ga9$ z a  
prize1 aft] :i* he is usually escort$1  
or if necess>y c>ri$1 home 9 great /ate 
) a b& 9 advance & all ! memb]s ( !     
conte/ foll[+ 9 a disord]ly1 b jolly1   
cr[d4  ,! second =m ( conte/ is kn[n z !
 ,tir au b]ceau1 & consi/s ( %oot+ at a 
t>get4 ,! birds1 9 ?is case1 are fa/5$  
ab\t ! bull's eye4 ,! ar*]s /& at a     
di/ance ( "o hundr$ metres f ! t>get1   
:i* is usually plac$ at ! re> ( a wall$ 
c\rt or g>d54 ,g5]ally a s]ies ( wood5  
ar*es plac$ at int]vals along ! l9e (   
fire s]ve to arre/ any arr[s t g wild1  

:ile ! back ( ! t>get is re9=c$ /rongly 
) /raws ab\t a foot long laid l5g?wise )
 ! l9e ( ! %oot+ & pack$ "u great       
pressure4 ,!re is inv>iably a public caf
 or e/am9et atta*$ to ! places :]e ar*]y
 conte/s au b]ceau are conduct$1 :ile   
su* places are always f\nd close by !   
spot :]e a ,tir  l'oiseau takes place4  
,betwe5 %ots ! m5 consume lib]al        
quantities ( lambic1 f>o1 or ! be] ( "s 
neighb\r+ brew]1 & discuss politics or !
 news ( ! day4 ,a circum/ance t r5d]s   
disord]s comp>atively r>e is t ea* ar*]y
 society consi/s ( m5 ( a s+le p>ty4 ,! 
,ca?olics h _! fav\rite places t are    
patronis$ exclusively by ,ca?olics1 :ile
 ! ,sociali/s 9 ! s\!rn prov9ces1 :]e t 
p>ty is /rong1 h _! own societies &     
places ( r5dezv\s4 ,! cl]gy are he>tily 
int]e/$ 9 ! ,ca?olic conte/s1 giv+      
lib]al prizes & att5d+ 9 consid]able    
numb]s to *e] ! victors & console !     
vanqui%$4  ,dur+ ! e>ly "p ( ! w> num]\s
 ref]5ces 7 made 9 ! despat*es to !     
m>vell\s accuracy ( ! ,belgian riflem54 

,to "o :o has att5d$ scores ( ^! ar*]y  
conte/s x is n surpris+ t ! ,belgians   
are good %ots4 ,out ( date ?\gh ! b[ &  
arr[ is1 yet ! sport _c fail to tra9 !  
eye & h&1 & con/ant rivalry 9 su* a     
pa/ime has made ! ,belgians lit]ally a  
nation ( %>p%oot]s4 ,on "o occasion !   
writ] & a fri5d took a c\ple ( %ots ) a 
c>b9e 9 "o ( ! little %oot+ gall]ies t  
accompani$ a village k]messe4 ,we bo?   
miss$4 ,a "y man /&+ by1 :o work$ 9 !   
village sug> mill1 politely ask$ :i* ( !
 v>i\s pipes & o!r objects we 7 aim+ at4
 ,we indicat$ "o ( !m &1 zip6 8 bullet  
_h %att]$ x4 ,half a doz5 %ots 9 quick  
succession at diff]5t objects we po9t$  
out prov$ equally accurate4 ,x 0 an     
exhibition ( m>ksman%ip su* z "o        
frequ5tly sees on ! /age 9 ! ,unit$     
,/ates1 b be+ made by a casual by/&] 9 a
 village /reet x 0 mo/ impressive4 ,nor 
0 ! lad1 z ,i took pa9s to inquire1 not$
 p>ticul>ly = 8 skill 9 ?is             
direction--hav+ seldom won prizes 9 !   
(ficial conte/s4  ,all ages jo9 9 ?is   

sport1 ! small boys erect+ dim9utive    
poles 9 ! fields ar\nd ! villages1 :]e  
!y imitate _! eld]s ) toy b[s & arr[s1  
:ile m5 ( sev5ty or eighty take _! turn 
) be>dless y\?s 9 ! prize competitions4 
,:ile ,i 0 visit+ 9 ! ,bor9age two ye>s 
ago ! uncle ( my ho/ess %\ld]$ 8        
two-metre b[ & />t$ (f to a meet despite
 8 eighty-sev5 ye>s4 ,:at is m1 8 h& _h 
lo/ none ( its /r5g? & firmness1 & 8    
eyes none ( _! ke5ness1 = twice :ile ,i 
0 pres5t he br\ght d[n "o ( ! birds1 &  
,i lat] le>n$ t he _h won "o ( !        
pr9cipal prizes4 ,only ! ye> be=e he _h 
be5 cr[n$ ,k+ at "o su* conte/1 & ! fir/
 "t he ev] won t covet$ hon\r 0 :5 he 0 
sixte5--or sev5ty-"o ye>s be=e4 ,i d\bt 
:e!r !re is any a?letic game 9 ! _w (   
:i* ! devotees c po9t to a long] record 
( success4  ,?is f9e old a?lete _h two  
bro!rs old] ?an himself alive at ! "t1 !
 comb9$ ages ( ! ?ree aggregat+ two     
hundr$ & eighty ye>s4 ,"o ( !m1 ag$     
n9ety-f\r1 rec5tly express$ "s anxiety z
 to :at w\ld become ( him 9 ! ev5t ( !  

dea? ( ! daught] ) :om he 0 liv+4  ,:at 
w ,i d if ,amlie %\ld die8 he ask$ ( "o 
( 8 o!r daught]s4  ,:y1 papa1 !n y w\ld 
come & live ) me1 %e repli$1 add+ ) a   
fla% ( *>act]i/ic ,belgian hum\r1 & :5  
,i am dead y'll g to live ) ,flici5ne 7a
 gr&-daught] /ill 9 h] 'te5s74 ,z ?is   
provid$ safely = 8 future = at lea/     
ano!r fifty ye>s1 ! old g5tleman 0      
greatly reliev$1 feel+ p]haps t if he   
surviv$ ,flici5ne h] *ildr5 w\ld by t "t
 be old en\gh to take c>e ( him4  ,:ile 
ar*]y is ev]y:]e ! dom9at+ pa/ime ( !   
work+ class x is by no means ! only =m (
 popul> amusem5t4 ,! bicycle has n yet  
gone out ( vogue 9 ,belgium1 & societies
 exi/ 9 hundr$s ( cities & communes = ! 
enc\ragem5t ( bicycle rac+4 ,! day ( our
 arrival 9 ! village :]e ,tante ,rosa   
spread = u ! banquet m5tion$ 9 ! second 
*apt]1 we 7 s =tunate z to witness !    
f9al spr9t ( a tw5ty-five kilometre     
race4 ,a score ( conte/ants _h p$all$ t5
 times ov] a c\rse consi/+ = ! mo/ "p ( 
roadways pav$ ) ragg$ cobble-/ones1 !   

re/ be+ dirt roads fill$ ) mud puddles  
ow+ to a rec5t ra94 ,! rid]s1 z !y ru%$ 
by1 7 lit]ally cov]$ ) mud & _h evid5tly
 /ruggl$ h>d to ga9 "o ( ! five prizes  
:i* aggregat$1 z we aft]w>ds le>n$1 !   
munific5t sum ( eighty francs1 sixte5   
doll>s1 ( :i* ! w9n] receiv$ ?irty--six 
doll>s6  ,ano!r fav\rite =m ( recreation
 is ! rac+ ( pigeons1 & societies = !   
promotion ( ?is sport exi/ 9 e "p ( !   
,k+dom4 ,frequ5tly ! birds fly f "o end 
( ! c\ntry to ! o!r & _m examples (     
rem>kable spe$ h be5 report$1 ! w9n]s   
br++ comp>atively high prices3  ,no     
bett] idea ( ! v>iety ( popul> amusem5ts
 c be giv5 ?an to take ! programme ( "o 
little commune t ,i _h an opportunity ( 
copy+1 entitl$ ,ftes ,communales de     
#aiad--?is ann\ncem5t be+ pr9t$ 9 ,fr5* 
& ,flemi%4 ,:ile _m ( ! ev5ts 7 evid5tly
 organis$ by v>i\s societies ! (ficials 
( ! commune assum$ responsibility = !   
prop] conduct ( ! conte/s1 & ei!r       
provid$ ! prizes or contribut$ a        
sub/antial sum t[>d !m1 ! re/ be+ rais$ 

by a fee exact$ f ea* conte/ant :i* v>i$
 f "o franc1 ?irty c5times = ! small]   
ev5ts to five francs = ! m important    
ones4 ,) "o hundr$ conte/ants ?is w\ld  
yield "o hundr$ & ?irty francs1 to :i* !
 commune usually add$ fifty1 mak+ "o    
hundr$ & eighty francs available 9 all4 
,= ! *ief ev5ts ! prizes aggregate      
#a1jjj to #b1jjj francs--q a respectable
 sum = a commune ( six ?\s& inhabitants4
 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 ar*]y conte/s au    
b]ceau &  la p]*e has already be5       
expla9$4 ,! programme1 mu* abbreviat$1  
foll[s3          ,sun41 ,apr4           
#ai4--;,ar*]y conte/s1 bo? au b]ceau &  
p]*e4          ,sun41 ,apr4             
#bf4--;,ar*]y conte/1 au b]ceau1 & rifle
         conte/ 7c>b9es74               
,fri41 ,may #a4--;,fte du ,travail      
7,labor ,day7 ,ar*]y         conte/ &   
popul> ball on a public         squ>e 9 
! ev5+--danc+ 9         ! /reet1 ra9 or 
%9e4          ,sun41 ,may #aj4--,rifle  
conte/4          ,?urs41 ,may           
#ba4--;,ar*]y conte/4          ,sun41   

,may4 #bd4--;,annual ,fair ) ar*]y      
conte/s (         bo? k9ds1 rifle conte/
 & gr&         conc]t 9 ev5+ ) two b&s4 
,sun41 ,may #ca4--,k]messe1 ) ar*]y     
conte/s ( bo?         k9ds & a popul>   
out-door ball 9         ! ev5+4         
,sun41 ,june #g4--;,bicycle             
,race--outdoor c\rse ar\nd         !    
village t5 times1 #be kilometres4       
,sun41 ,june #ad4--;,ar*]y conte/ au    
b]ceau & ,tir du         ,roi 7p]*e74   
,sun41 ,june #ba4--,k]messe 9 ano!r     
qu>t] ( ! commune1         ) rifle      
conte/ & conc]t 9         ev5+1 foll[$  
by popul> ball4          ,sun4 to       
,tues41         ,july #e1 #f1           
#g1--;,annual ,k]messe 9 ! c5tre ( !    
commune1 ) ar*]y conte/ 7p]*e7          
on ,sunday1 au b]ceau on ,monday1 &     
,tir du ,roi ) public games &           
sports on ,tuesday4 ,it9]ant amusem5t   
ent]prises ( all k9ds make         ^!   
annual k]messes a m9iature              
,coney ,isl& :ile !y la/4               
,sun41 ,july #bf4--,tir du ,roi & ,gr&  

,fte ,gymna/ique1         foll[$ by     
conc]t1 ,fte de ,nuit &         a ball4 
,sun41 ,aug4 #i4--;,fte d',enfance1     
di/ribution ( prizes to         s*ool   
*ildr5 ) public exhibition         (    
s*ool gymna/ics1 etc4          ,sat4 &  
,sun41         ,aug4 #ae &              
#af4--,k]messe 9 a ?ird qu>t]1 ) ar*]y  
conte/s & conc]t4          ,sun4 ,mon4 &
         ,tues41 ,aug4         #cj to   
,sept4 #a4--;,annual ,k]messe1 ) ar*]y  
conte/s         ( bo? k9ds1 conc]t &    
sports &         games4          ,sun41 
,sept4 #bj4--;,ar*]y au b]ceau & rifle  
conte/4          ,sun41 ,oct4           
#be4--,same4          ,sun41 ,nov4      
#ba4--;,ar*]y1 p]*e4          ,sun41    
,dec4 #ac4--,rifle conte/4  ,x mu/ be   
confess$ t ?is programme is some:at     
monoton\s1 b 9 ! l>g] t[ns x is         
consid]ably amplifi$ & v>i$4 ,/ill to "o
 :o 0 br\ght up 9 a small c\ntry village
 9 ,new ,hamp%ire x seems v good1 bo? z 
an evid5ce ( ! popul> desire = heal?y & 
rational out-door enjoym5t1 & ( !       

disposition ( ! ,gov]nm5t to promote &  
fo/] legitimate amusem5ts ( all k9ds4 ,!
 k]messe is an ,european r ?an a        
,belgian in/itution & requires no       
description fur!r ?an t x is a jolly    
good "t = ev]ybody4 ,x has exi/$ 9      
,fl&]s & ?r\gh\t ! ,walloon prov9ces f  
"t immemorial1 z anci5t pa9t+s & /ill m 
anci5t hi/orical ref]5ces conclusively  
%[4 ,its mo/ int]e/+ feature to !       
,am]ican visitor is ! night danc+ out ( 
doors on ! r\gh cobble-/ones ( ! t[n    
squ>e or on ! s(t grass ( ! village     
gre54 ,light$ by fl>+ gas tor*es1 or    
sometimes only by ! moon & su* /ray     
beams z fall on ! danc]s f ! op5 doors &
 w9d[s ( adjac5t cafs1 ! spectacle ( !  
gaily danc+ c\ples c>ries ! obs]v] back 
to ! days :5 ! _w 0 "y1 & love & laught]
 & happ9ess reign$ supreme4             
,illu/ration3 ,,an ,,anci5t ,,pa9t+ ,,( 
,,! ,,flemi% ,,k]messe1 ,,by ,,t5i]s4   
,,*apt] ,,vii  ,,:5 ,,ypres ,,0 ,a      
,,great] ,,city ,,?an ,,london   ,z we  
return$ f our trip to ,dixmude1 ,furnes 

& ,nieuport1 ! ,pr(essor ann\nc$ t our  
next de/9ation w\ld be ,ypres4 ,if he _h
 said t x w\ld he ,*+wangtao1 or !      
,comoro ,ar*ipelago1 ! ladies c\ld h>dly
 h />$ at him m blankly4 ,!y _h nev]    
he>d ( x4 ,s9ce ,octob] ! :ole _w has   
he>d ( x1 & ! "n ( ! all b =gott5 old   
t[n is famili> to e s*oolboy--& w       
cont9ue s = g5]ations to come4 ,! record
 ( our visit t foll[s 0 writt5 amid !   
pleasant & peaceful sc5es t x describes4
 ,:5 we 7 !re ! swans 7 swimm+          
maje/ically 9 ! wat]s ( ! moat t /ill   
surr\nd$ ! remnants ( ! old city walls1 
b we 7 told t = milit>y purposes all ?is
 0 obsolete4 ,no d\bt x 01 b ! brave old
 t[n 0 none ! less able--) ! help ( its 
/ubborn ,engli% def5d]s--to )/& ! mo/   
furi\s1 det]m9$ & bloody assaults 9 all 
hi/ory4 ,to ! ,g]man ho/ ! m$ival t]m la
 morte d',ypres 0 reviv$ 9 ^? awful     
weeks ( ,octob] & ,novemb]1 #aiad1 = !  
grim1 l[-ly+ ramp>ts ( ! t[n meant dea? 
to c\ntless ?\s&s4  ,:e!r any?+ :atev]  
is /ill /&+ ( ! old /ructures describ$ 9

 ?is *apt] x is at pres5t impossible to 
say4 ,! ,briti% tr5*es 7 "u a well-nigh 
cont9u\s /orm ( %ells = _m weeks1 & !   
t[n itself mu/ und\bt$ly h suff]$       
sev]ely4 ,late 9 ,novemb] x 0 report$ t 
! old ,clo? ,hall _h be5 de/roy$ by !   
furi\s ,g]man bomb>dm5t1 or1 at lea/1   
sev]ely injur$4 ,! acc\nt ( ! v>i\s     
po9ts ( int]e/ 9 ! fam\s old t[n z !y   
appe>$ 9 peaceful ,june--toge!r ) "s    
brief sket*es ( its =m] greatness--may  
be all ! m int]e/+ n[ t its ru9s lie 9 !
 lime-light ( ! _w's att5tion4 ,z comp>$
 ) ! half-doz5 t\ri/s t av]ag$ to visit 
,ypres ea* day be=e ! w> ! return (     
peace w see x become ! ,mecca = daily   
?\s&s4 ,to ^! ! rema9s ( ! t[n itself   
%\ld vie 9 int]e/ ) ! tr5*es ( ! fam\s  
battle-fields ( ! ,great ,w>1 = dur+ a  
p]iod two or ?ree times z long z !      
entire duration ( ! nation kn[n z !     
,unit$ ,/ates ( ,am]ica1 ,ypres 0 "o ( !
 greate/ & ri*e/ cities 9 ! _w4  ,x 0   
h>d to believe x1 h[ev]1 z we rumbl$    
into ! railroad /ation &1 /epp+ out ^u !

 almo/ des]t$ plat=m1 took our fir/ look
 at ! place4 ,z is usually ! case 9     
,fl&]s1 ! tra9 deposits ! visitor "s    
di/ance f ! c5tre ( ! t[n4 ,! v fir/    
view 0 full ( delight & promise ( bett] 
?+s 9 /ore1 h[ev]1 = z we em]g$ f !     
/ation we f\nd ourselves fac+ a pretty  
little p>k or squ>e on ! opposite side (
 :i* we c\ld see a bit ( ! anci5t city  
walls :i* /ret*$ away t[>d ! "r mo/     
invit+ly4  ,po/pon+ ! pleasure (        
inspect+ ^! r5[n$ ramp>ts till a lat]   
occasion1 we made our way ?r\gh n>r[    
w9d+ /reets direct to ! ,gr&e ,place1   
paus+ n[ & !n to admire ! qua9t gabl$   
h\ses on ! rue au ,beurre 7,butt]       
,/reet74 ,at ! ,gr&e ,place ! ,pr(essor 
l$ u directly to ! huge ,clo? ,hall1 :i*
 completely fills "o side ( x1 = "h--he 
said--we w\ld f9d ! be/ introduction to 
! hi/ory & romance ( ! city4 ,! conci]ge
 prov$ h>d to f9d1 & we w&]$ up-/airs & 
?r\gh a des]t$ corridor1 try+ sev]al    
doors t prov$ all to be lock$1 be=e we  
locat$ ! famili> sign4 ,our fees be+    

duly paid--fifty c5times ea*1 :i* 0     
little en\gh = ! privilege ( inspect+ ! 
f9e/ monum5t ( its k9d 9 ,fl&]s1 or = t 
matt] 9 all ,europe--"o ( ! doors 0     
oblig+ly unlock$ & we f\nd ourselves    
imm$iately 9 ! great ,guild ,hall4      
,illu/ration3 ,,clo? ,,hall1 ,,ypres4   
,! ,halle aux ,draps1 or ,clo? ,hall1 is
 ! l>ge/ civil edifice 9 ,belgium1 & )\t
 d\bt "o ( ! l>ge/ 9 ! _w4 ,x is f\r    
hundr$ & ?irty-?ree feet long by m ?an  
two hundr$ 9 wid?--or l>g] ?an ,madison 
,squ>e ,g>d54 ,its huge bulk1 & t ( !   
=m] ca!dral h>d by1 contra/ /rangely ) !
 pres5t dim5sions ( ! little city4 ,yet 
:5 !y 7 built ,ypres 0 ! p[]ful rival ( 
,bruges & ,gh5t1 !n at ! apex ( _!      
glory1 & "o ( ! =emo/ cities 9 ! _w4 ,! 
,clo? ,hall 0 begun 9 #abjj & complet$ 9
 #acjd1 or two ye>s aft] ! ,battle ( !  
,spurs1 a victory won by ! guildsm5 (   
,ypres & ,bruges aga9/ ! *ivalry (      
,france4 ,dur+ t p]iod ! city _h two    
hundr$ ?\s& inhabitants1 its wooll5     
weav]s op]at$ f\r ?\s& looms1 & m ?an   

f\r hundr$ guilds respond$ to ! calls to
 arms t s\nd$1 at frequ5t int]vals1 f ! 
belfry4  ,! greate/ wond] ( ! edifice is
 ! imm5se gall]y1 or hall1 :i* occupies 
! side next to ! ,gr&e ,place4 ,?is     
ext5ds = ! entire l5g? ( ! build+1 brok5
 only by ! belfry 9 ! c5tre :i* =ms a   
sort ( transept across x4 ,9 height x   
rea*es cle> to ! ro(1 ! huge ro( beams  
=m+ its ceil+4 ,!re is a v]itable =e/ ( 
^!1 massive1 /urdy1 & z p]fect z ! day  
!y 7 hew$ f ! fair oaks ( ! c\ntryside  
r\ndab\t4 ,! conci]ge w n fail to tell  
y1 if y pause to admire ?is maje/ic     
timb]-"w ( six hundr$ ye>s ago1 t f t   
day to ?is no spid] has ev] spun its web
 !re--nor is any spid] ev] se54 ,l !    
/ory ( ! snakes 9 ,irel&1 x w\ld be a   
big pity to spoil ?is by f9d+ "o & po9t+
 x out--"o mu/ ne$s be a good runn] to d
 x1 & be v sure :i* road leads to !     
railway /ation1 = x might g h>d ) him--b
 we c\ld n see any ! day we 7 !re4 ,9   
fact1 ! leg5d has be5 repeat$ by _m     
writ]s s9ce ! sixte5? c5tury & is n[ su*

 a matt] ( local pride t no d\bt !      
conci]ge :o p]mitt$ "o to get 9 & set up
 h\sekeep+ 9 ?is spid]less ,ed5--= x    
c]ta9ly mu/ look l ! ,promis$ ,l& to a  
spid]--w\ld n only lose 8 or h] job1 b  
be sev]ely puni%$ by ! indignant city   
fa!rs into ! b>ga94  ,look+ at ! ,clo?  
,hall f across ! ,gr&e ,place x has !   
aspect ( be+ a l[ build+1 b )9 ?is      
gall]y "o ga9s precisely an opposite    
impression--( unusual l(t9ess4 ,j h[    
high ! va/ room is c be/ be e/imat$ by  
not+ ! wood5 faade ( an anci5t h\se t   
has be5 tak5 d[n & erect$ aga9/ "o wall 
9 its entirety4 ,) its ?ree /ories &    
high peak$ top ?is /ructure appe>s to be
 lit]ally lo/1 look+ l an und]siz$ pea 9
 an extra big pod4 ,! great inn] walls (
 ! ma9 gall]y1 fac+ ! w9d[s t look out  
^u ! ,gr&e ,place1 h be5 decorat$ by    
mod]n frescoes ( great hi/orical &      
arti/ic int]e/ pa9t$ by two arti/s (    
widely diff]5t me?ods & ideals4 ,!      
portion into :i* "o fir/ ent]s1 ext5d+  
to ! break =m$ by ! t[]1 0 decorat$ by  

,f]d9& ,pauwels1 ,director ( ! ,royal   
,academy ( ,dresd54 ,bo? ! art critics1 
& ^? :o make no pret5ce to sup]ior k 9  
su* matt]s1 agree t ?is "w has be5      
magnific5tly done4 ,! va/ness ( ! wall  
spaces made x possible to pa9t !        
pictures on a scale ( size & ) a weal? (
 detail surpass+ ! f9e frescoes ( !     
,hotel de ,ville at ,bruges & ! g5]al   
effect ^u ! behold] is impressive 9 !   
extreme4 ,! pictures repres5t notable   
ev5ts 9 ! t[n's hi/ory d[n to ! f\rte5? 
c5tury1 & 7 begun 9 #ahgb & complet$ 9  
#ahha4 ,! subjects select$ by ! arti/   
are z foll[s3      #a4--,visit ( ,c\nt  
,philip ( ,alsace to ! ,hospital (      
,our ,lady 9 #aahg4      #b4--;,c\nt    
,f]d9& ( ,portugal ord]s ! ,magi/rates  
to =tify ! t[n 9 #abad4                 
#c4--;,c\ntess ,jeanne ( ,con/ant9ople  
sett+ prison]s     free on ,good        
,friday1 #abjf4      #d4--e4--,!        
,magi/rates give ! ,c\ntess ,m>g>et !   
ransom ( h] son ,william1 :o 0 made     
prison]     dur+ ! #g? ,crusade4        

#f4--;,build+ ! ,we/ w+ ( ! ,guild ,hall
 9 ! "t     ( ,guy ( ,dampi]re1 #abhe4  
#g4--h4--,return ( ! arm$ =ces ( ,ypres 
9 #acjb     aft] ! ,battle ( ! ,spurs4  
#i4--,! ,plague1 kn[n z la ,morte       
d',ypres1 9 #acdg4                      
#aj4--aa4--;,banquet (f]$ 9 ?is v hall  
to ,mahaut1     ,c\ntess ( ,fl&]s1 &    
,mat!w1 ,duke ( ,lorra9e     on _!      
m>riage 9 #acad4      #ab4--;,an episode
 ( ! siege ( ,ypres by ! ,engli%     & !
 m5 ( ,gh5t 9 #achc4  ,z w be not$1 !   
pictures are n arrang$ 9 exact          
*ronological ord]1 b1 tak5 toge!r1 !y =m
 a wond]ful pictorial summ>y ( ! city's 
hi/ory--d[n to ! ,fall ( #aiad1 :i*     
m]its a sep>ate gall]y by itself4 ,to u 
! mo/ impressive ( ! s]ies 0 ! va/      
picture 9 two sections %[+ ! triumphant 
return f ! ,battle ( ,c\rtrai & ! tragic
 repres5tation ( ! ,black ,dea?1 :i*    
swept ?r\gh all ! d5sely populat$       
,flemi% t[ns2 b 0 m de/ructive at ,ypres
 ?an else:]e4 ,! visitation "h repres5t$
 0 by no means ! only "o 9 ! city's     

hi/ory1 & = c5turies la morte d',ypres 0
 a "n ( t]ror ?r\gh\t ! c\ntryside4  ,9 
! section ( ! ,great ,hall beyond !     
belfry ! mural pa9t+s are ! "w ( ,l\is  
,delbeke1 a pa9t] ( ,ypres4 ,8 pictures 
7 ! subject ( viol5t criticism :5 !y 7  
fir/ exhibit$1 & are entirely unlike ^? 
9 ! o!r portion ( ! *amb]4 ,! arti/     
endeav\r$ to give 8 "w an ar*aic        
appe>ance1 9 keep+ ) ! antiquity ( its  
surr\nd+s1 & x 0 8 int5tion to symbolise
 ! v>i\s manife/ations ( ! public life (
 ! city--,civic ,fre$om1 ,comm]ce1      
,indu/ry1 ,*>ities1 ,lit]ature & s on4  
,! "w 0 int]rupt$ by 8 dea? & has nev]  
be5 complet$4  ,ano!r room ( great      
int]e/ is ! ,salle ,e*ev9ale1 :]e = five
 c5turies ! magi/rates ( ,ypres held _! 
sessions4 ,betwe5 #acbb & #adfh local   
arti/s pa9t$ on ! wall above ! ?ree     
,go?ic ar*es 9 ?is room a frieze        
compris+ portraits ( ! e>ly ,c\nts &    
,c\ntesses ( ,fl&]s1 beg9n+ ) ,l\is (   
,nev]s & end+ ) ,*>les ! ,bold4 ,:5 !   
,fr5* occupi$ ! t[n 9 #agid !y cov]$ ^! 

emblems ( sup]/ition & portraits (      
tyrants ) a ?ick coat ( :itewa% :i* 0   
only accid5tally knock$ (f 9 #ahdd1     
expos+ a bit ( ! anci5t & /ill          
brilliantly col\r$ pa9t+4 ,! discov]y   
creat$ q a s5sation1 z ! v exi/5ce ( ?is
 "w _h be5 =gott51 & a native arti/ 0   
commission$ to remove ! :itewa% & re/ore
 ! pa9t+s1 :i* he did 9 a mann] t is n  
entirely satisfactory1 b none ! less    
gives u an opportunity to view once m   
?is int]e/+ "w--"o ( ! e>lie/ pieces (  
mural pa9t+ 9 ,fl&]s4 ,on ! nor? wall ( 
?is room is a mod]n fresco by ,godefroid
 ,guff5s1 repres5t+ ,! ,/ate ,entry (   
,philip ! ,bold 9 #achd1 :ile on ! o!r  
side ( ! room is a monum5tal ,flemi%    
*imney-piece c>v$ by ,malfait (         
,brussels1 ) mural pa9t+s on ea* side by
 ,jean ,sw]ts--l ,guff5s1 a pa9t] ( !   
mod]n ,antw]p s*ool4 ,^! repres5t !     
,magi/rates ( ,ypres issu+ an ord]      
reg>d+ ! ma9t5ance ( ! poor1 9 #aeae2 & 
! visit ( ! ,magi/rates to "o ( ! ,free 
,s*ools f\nd$ 9 #abec--?us illu/rat+ !  

e>ly int]e/ tak5 by ! commune 9 free    
education & public *>ities4  ,leav+ ?is 
int]e/+ build+ we w5t across a small    
r\ghly pav$ squ>e to ! ,*ur* ( ,/4      
,m>t91 :i* dates f ! ?irte5? c5tury1 & 0
 = _m c5turies a ca!dral4 ,! unf9i%$    
squ>e t[] 0 erect$ 9 #adcc4 ,! *oir is  
,romano-ogival1 :ile ! nave & aisles are
 e>ly ,go?ic1 & ! edifice has _m o!r    
peculi> features ( int]e/ to /ud5ts (   
ar*itecture4 ,x conta9s ! usual pa9t+s1 
( :i* none are ( rem>kable int]e/1 & "s 
excell5t *oir /alls4 ,! mo/ fam\s ( !   
,bi%ops ( ,/4 ,m>t91 :ile x 0 a ,ca!dral
 ,*ur*1 0 ,jans5ius1 "o ( ! lead+       
figures 9 ! ,re=mation1 :o di$ ( !      
,plague 9 #afch4 ,8 great "w on ,/4     
,augu/9e occupi$ tw5ty-two ye>s ( 8 life
 :ile at ,ypres & caus$ a trem5d\s      
discussion4 ,x 0 f9ally decl>$ to be    
h]etical1 b its tea*+s _h already giv5  
rise to an ard5t gr\p ( foll[]s ( !     
le>n$ ,flemi% *ur*man1 :o 7 call$       
,jans5i/s4 ,! ar*ives ( ! city & *ur*   
conta9 mu* int]e/+ mat]ial reg>d+ ?is   

celebrat$ m$ival !ologian4 ,8 tomb1 :i* 
/ill /&s 9 ! *ur* ( :i* he 0 once !     
head1 =m]ly conta9$ a long & highly     
eulogi/ic inscription1 :i*1 by an ord] f
 ! ,pope 9 #afee1 0 cut d[n to ! b>e    
remnant t /ill rema9s4  ,! ,gr&e ,place 
( ,ypres is ano!r ( ! surprises t ?is   
t9y city has to (f] to ^? unacqua9t$ )  
its hi/ory1 = x is "o ( ! l>ge/ 9 all   
,fl&]s--a v]itable ,sah>a ( a ,place on 
a hot summ] day1 albeit a ,sah>a bord]$ 
) _m pleasant oases :]e cool+ dr9ks1 if 
!y d n bubble up f ! gr\nd1 c at lea/ be
 _h )\t mu* difficulty4 ,dur+ mo/ ( !   
week ! va/ pav$ space is almo/ des]t$1  
save = an occasional peasant's c>t t    
rumbles sl[ly & clumsily across x1 b on 
m>ket-days x is full ( picturesque &    
sw>m+ life4 ,!n ! peasants come 9 f !   
c\ntryside by ! ?\s&1 :ile ! it9]ant    
huck/]s & p$l>s :o1 9 ,belgium travel f 
"o fair or m>ket-place to ano!r1 set up 
_! canvas-cov]$ boo?s 9 long /reets f "o
 side ( ! ,gr&e ,place to ! o!r4 ,!     
c\ntry p press along betwe5 ^! r[s ( t9y

 %ops & haggle en]getically ) !         
proprietors = :atev] takes _! fancy4 ,an
 a/\nd+ v>iety ( w>es are (f]$ = sale on
 ^! m>ket days--dress goods ( e         
description 9 ! great ,clo? ,hall1 :i* =
 a brief mom5t reflects a feeble glimm] 
( its anci5t glory2 ready-made g>m5ts = 
man1 woman & *ild2 footwe>1 headwe>1 & e
 conceivable k9d ( h>dw>e1 ( t9w>e1 (   
crock]y4 ,9 %ort1 ! display is a        
v]itable dep>tm5t /ore1 = ! mo/ "p *eap 
/uff1 x is true1 b n[ & !n "o runs      
across laces = :i* ! prices ask$ are q  
high4 ,!n1 ( c\rse1 !re is ! inevitable 
array ( ev]y?+ possible to eat--f !     
but*]s' /alls 9 ! basem5t ( ! ,clo?     
,hall to ! huck/] sell+ live *ick5s f a 
bag on ! corn]1 & ! scores ( /&s sell+  
fruits & vegetables ( e seasonable      
v>iety4  ,at la/1 h[ev]1 ! m>ket comes  
to an end1 ! huck/]s & m>ket g>d5]s take
 d[n _! boo?s & drive away 9 _! heavy   
,flemi% c>ts2 ! c\ntry p1 aft] a m or   
less protract$ visit to ! places (      
refre%m5t ar\nd ! ,place & 9 ! adjac5t  

/reets1 g homew>d1 & ! ,gr&e ,place     
settles d[n aga9 into its sleep (       
c5turies4 ,:ile we 7 !re ! moon 0 at its
 full1 & z its :ite light fell ^u !     
grass-gr[n ,place & ! huge grey mass ( !
 ,clo? ,hall x 0 n h>d to picture ! old 
days come back aga9 & review1 9 fancy1  
"s ( ! /irr+ times t ! old h\ses ar\nd x
 h look$ d[n ^u4 ,! great bell 9 ! ,clo?
 ,hall t[] r+s & f f> & wide come hurry+
 ?rongs ( /urdy artisans1 ) _! lances1  
pikes & clubs4 ,! ,s]m5ts1 or oa?-b\nd  
corporations1 take _! positions gravely 
& 9 good ord]--m5 ( sub/ance ^!1 portly1
 well-f$1 & prosp]\s4 ,!n ! ,mti]s1 or  
less] craftsm51 assemble--no d\bt m     
noisily & boi/]\sly1 z w\ld be expect$ f
 _! r\gh] class & l[] bre$+4 ,ea* ( !   
f\r hundr$ guilds assembles ar\nd its   
respective bann]1 ! ,c\nt & o!rs ( !    
nobility come rid+ up2 & ) !m1 on t]ms (
 full equality1 ! comm&]s ( ! citiz5    
soldi]y conf]4 ,!n1 z ! trumpets s\nd1  
or mayhap ! great bell peals aga91 !    
ho/s m>* (f 9 s]ri$ ranks to ! city     

gates1 or to take _! positions along !  
walls4 ,! old /reets e*o to ! s\nd ( _! 
tramp+ feet1 ! noise ( _! %\ts & cries  
dies away1 & once m ! /ill moonlight    
falls ^u ! des]t$ old ,place4  ,z we sat
 9 "o ( ! cafs fac+ ! ,clo? ,hall1 our  
m9ds fill$ ) ^! & o!r fancies ( ! old5  
days--! moonlight1 ! old h\ses all ar\nd
 u1 & ! _m qua9t & anci5t ?+s we _h se5 
dur+ ! day all contribut+ to ! dreamy   
s5se ( en*antm5t--! ,pr(essor told u    
some?+ ( ! leg5d & hi/ory ( t f>-(f     
?irte5? c5tury :5 mu* ( ! ,ypres we _h  
se5 t day 0 built4 ,x 0 an age :5 m5    
firmly believ$ 9 magic & fairies &      
delight$ 9 tales ( my/]y & en*antm5t4   
,"s ( ! mo/ fam\s /ories told by ! old  
,flemi% *ronicl]s relate to ! c>e] (    
,baldw9 ,,ix1 :o came to be kn[n z      
,baldw9 ( ,con/ant9ople4 ,aft] ! long & 
wise reigns ( ,di]ick ( ,alsace & 8 son 
,philip1 ,fl&]s _h become "o ( ! ri*e/ &
 mo/ prosp]\s c\ntries 9 ,europe4 ,!    
,fr5*1 :o look$ ^u its f]tile pla9s &   
fair cities ) covet\s eyes1 compos$ ^!  

l9es1 :i* no d\bt express$ _! s9c]e     
conviction3      ,la plus belle ,comt e/
 ,la ,fl&re1     ,la plus belle ,du* e/ 
,la ,b\rgogne1     ,la plus belle       
,royaume e/ ,france4  ,baldw9 0 n only  
,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 b also ,c\nt ( ,ha9aut1 
( :i* ,mons 0 ! capital--8 dom9ions     
!re=e ext5d+ f ! ,nor? ,sea to ! ,riv]  
,meuse & includ+ mu* ( ! ,ard5nes4 ,x 0 
9 ?is region--! true fairy-l& (         
,belgium--t ! ,c\nt met ) an adv5ture1  
accord+ to c]ta9 ( ! *ronicl]s1 :i* gave
 8 reign a mo/ s9i/] beg9n+4 ,x happ5$ 9
 ?is wise4 ,! ,c\nt 0 v fond ( hunt+1 & 
v neglectful ( ! duty 8 loyal subjects  
felt t he ow$ to !m--( gett+ m>ri$ &    
secur+ *ildr5 to insure ! succession4 ,=
 no?+ 0 m disa/r\s to a c\ntry ?an to h 
its l9e ( pr9ces die out1 leav+ _! title
 to be f\ght = by all :o felt !mselves  
/rong en\gh to seize x4 ,! ,c\nt 0 to h 
m>ri$ ,beatrice ( ,france1 ! mo/        
beautiful pr9cess 9 ,*ri/5dom1 b to !   
neglect ( ?is important matt] he w5t    
hunt+ 9 ! ,ard5nes1 :]e f "t immemorial 

! wild bo>s h be5 v l>ge & fi]ce4  ,"h1 
aft] a day ( poor sport1 ! ,c\nt came ^u
 a black bo> ( enorm\s /r5g? :i* kill$  
sev]al ( 8 dogs & ev5 w\nd$ "o ( 8      
companions4 ,pursu+ ! savage bea/ eag]ly
 ! ,c\nt lo/ sight ( 8 foll[]s & :5 he  
f9ally br\ght x to bay he 0 alone4 ,) a 
bl[ f 8 javel9 he f9ally kill$ x1 & !n  
cut (f its mon/r\s head4 ,z he paus$ to 
get 8 brea? he he>d a slight ru/le 9 !  
bu%es & !re 0 ! mo/ beautiful lady he _h
 ev] se51 seat$ on a palfrey4 ,^u 8     
inquir+ :o %e 01 & :y %e 0 !re 9 ! =e/  
alone1 %e repli$ t %e 0 an ,ea/]n       
pr9cess & _h come to f9d & w$ ! ri*e/   
,c\nt 9 ,*ri/5dom1 add+ t %e _h le>n$ t 
! ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s 0 ! noble/ "l 9 all !  
,we/1 & x 0 !re=e t ,c\nt = :om %e 0    
seek+4  ,to ?is ! ,c\nt1 :o _h already  
fall5 deeply 9 love ) ! beautiful       
/rang]1 ^: d>k eyes fla%$ ^u him ) a    
glance at once my/]i\s & entranc+1      
repli$ t he 0 ! ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s & ! ri*e/
 ,c\nt "u ,heav54 ,he !n & !re propos$  
to ! damsel1 (f]+ to m>ry h] at once1   

nor did he p]ceive t ! wild bo> he _h   
lately sla9 _h disappe>$1 & ev5 ! blood 
( ! battle 0 gone1 :ile z = ! huge head 
t he _h cut (f ) 8 own h&s ! palfrey ^u 
:i* ! ,ea/]n pr9cess 0 seat$ /ood on ! v
 spot4 ,he !n blew s l\d a recall ^u 8  
horn t x 0 he>d = miles ?r\gh ! great   
=e/1 & pres5tly ! less] c\nts & knights 
:o =m$ 8 tra9 came rid+ up4 ,to ^! he   
introduc$ ! /range pr9cess &1 despite ! 
prud5t c\nsels ( "s t x might be well to
 le>n m ab\t ! lady1 he =?) repair$ to  
,cambrai :]e !y 7 m>ri$ 9 great spl5d\r4
 ,! ,c\ntess1 beautiful z %e 01 did n   
become popul>1 ! p attribut+ to h] !    
heavy taxes !y _h to pay4 ,x 0 also     
:isp]$ t %e nev] att5d$ ! elevation ( ! 
,ho/ at mass1 always leav+ be=e ! bell 0
 rung4  ,not)/&+ h] unpopul>ity1 & !    
gossip ( ! busybodies1 ! ,c\nt /ill lov$
 8 bride :o bore him two *ildr51 ,jeanne
 & ,m>g>et1 & ev] rema9$ z wond]fully   
beautiful z ! day !y fir/ met 9 ! =e/4  
,z !y 7 celebrat+ ,ea/] "o ye> at       
,wyn&ael ) a great fea/ a pilgrim arriv$

 f ! ,ea/ ) news t ! ,s>ac5s 7 besieg+  
,con/ant9ople4 ,he 0 =?) invit$ into !  
great hall ( ! ca/le & food plac$ be=e  
him1 :i* he ate eag]ly4 ,j !n ! ,c\ntess
 ent]$1 ) a tra9 ( ladies4 ,at sight (  
h] ! pilgrim /opp$ eat+ & trembl$1 :ile 
! ,c\ntess turn$ deadly pale & :isp]$ to
 h] "l to s5d t /rang] away z he 0 wick$
 & meant only evil by com+ !re4 ,b !    
,c\nt bade ! pilgrim say :]eat he 0     
al>m$1 :]eupon ! /rang] rose & 9 a l\d  
voice bade ! devil :o fill$ ! body ( !  
,c\ntess to dep>t f x4 ,at ?is !        
,c\ntess rose & confess$ %e 0 inde$ "o (
 ! devils ca/ out ( ,p>adise :o _h      
inhabit$ ! body ( ! mo/ beautiful maid5 
( ! ,ea/1 ! s\l hav+ dep>t$ f x4 ,) ?is 
confession1 at :i* all pres5t 7         
naturally appall$1 %e rose 9 all h]     
beauty be=e !m & vani%$ ?r\gh a w9d[ ( !
 hall1 nor 0 %e ev] se5 or he>d ( aga94 
,o!r *ronicl]s & hi/orians d5y ?is /ory1
 po9t+ out t ! ,c\nt 01 9 fact1 happily 
m>ri$ to ,m>ie ( ,*ampagne & t x 0 !    
beautiful ,fr5* ,c\ntess & no pr9cess ( 

satanic orig9 :o bore 8 two daught]s1   
,jeanne & ,m>g>et4 ,?is1 9 tru?1 0 !    
case1 b _m ( ! sup]/iti\s ,flem+s       
believ$ ! tale ab\t ! devil none ! less1
 & ! ,c\nt's brilliant b tragic lat]    
c>e] caus$ ! /ory to be repeat$ & h&$   
d[n = _m g5]ations4  ,only five ye>s    
aft] com+ to ! ?rone ,c\nt ,baldw9      
ann\nc$ 8 int5tion ( go+ on a crusade1 &
 9 ! pres5ce ( a va/ ?rong bo? he &     
,m>ie took ! cross 9 ! *ur* ( ,/4       
,donatian at ,bruges4 ,?is 0 9 #aaii1 b 
! ,c\nt 0 n able to leave 8 dom9ions at 
once & 9 ! foll[+ ye> he & ,m>ie came to
 ,ypres to d$icate ! f\ndation /one ( ! 
great ,clo? ,hall4 ,he f9ally set out 9 
#abjc1 b ! ,v5etians compell$ !         
crusad]s1 9 paym5t = _! passage1 to make
 a campaign :i* result$ 9 ! capture (   
,con/ant9ople1 ! f\nd+ ( ! ,lat9        
,empire1 & ! election ( ,c\nt ,baldw9 z 
! fir/ ,emp]or4 ,m>ie1 mean:ile1 _h gone
 to ,syria by ano!r r\te & !re %e di$ ( 
! plague1 only le>n+ 9 h] la/ h\r t h]  
husb& _h become an ,emp]or & t %e 0 an  

,empress4 ,h] dea? 0 ! fir/ ( ! rev]ses 
( =tune 9 ,baldw9's meteoric c>e]4 ,a   
ye> lat]1 9 #abje1 he fell w\nd$ 9 a    
battle be=e ! walls ( ,adrianople--or1  
p]haps1 sla94 ,c]ta9 x is t he disappe>$
 f ! _w ( m5 & = a space ( tw5ty ye>s 0 
he>d ( no m4  ,!n1 9 ! he>t ( ! great   
=e/ t 9 ^? days /ret*$ f ,t\rnai to     
,val5ci5nes1 "s wood-cutt]s f\nd a long 
be>d$1 :ite-hair$ old man1 8 face cov]$ 
) sc>s1 liv+ ! life ( a h]mit 9 a hut   
none ( !m rememb]$ ev] hav+ se5 be=e4   
,gradually ?is wond] attract$ m & m ( ! 
p !reab\t to see ! /rang]1 & m5 began to
 say t he resembl$ ! good ,c\nt ,baldw94
 ,"s ( ! nobles :o _h kn[n ! ,c\nt he>d 
( x1 visit$ ! hut 9 ! =e/1 & decl>$ t   
?is 0 inde$ ,c\nt ,baldw9 & ! ,emp]or4  
,if he 0 ! ,c\nt 8 c\ntry ne$$ him      
sorely1 = ! ,k+ ( ,france1 ,philip      
,augu/us1 _h dur+ 8 tw5ty ye>s' abs5ce  
all b made ,fl&]s a ,fr5* prov9ce4 ,:5 x
 became cle> t ,baldw9 0 ei!r dead or a 
prison] ( ! pagans ,philip _h seiz$ 8   
two daught]s--,jeanne be+ !n a girl (   

f\rte51 & ,m>g>et /ill 9 h]             
cradle--claim+ _! w>d%ip z ! dead       
,c\nt's suz]a94 ,five ye>s he kept !m1  
nor did he p]mit !m to return till he _h
 m>ri$ ,jeanne to a k9sman ( 8 own1     
,f]d9& ( ,portugal1 :o he ?\ght w\ld be 
a m]e puppet 9 8 h&s4 ,f]d9&1 h[ev]1    
prov$ to be a man ( det]m9ation & resi/$
 ,philip's seizure ( ,/4 ,om] & ,aire1  
two ,flemi% t[ns4 ,philip invad$ ,fl&]s 
) a great army1 captur+ ,cassel &       
de/roy+ ,damme & all ! m]*&ise /or$ !re1
 ,lille1 ,c\rtrai & _m small] t[ns4     
,f]d9&1 unable to resi/ ! sup]ior =ces (
 ,philip s+le-h&$1 br\ght ab\t an       
alliance ) ,k+ ,john ( ,engl&4 ,! battle
 ( ,b\v9es %att]$ ?is alliance1 & =     
twelve ye>s ,f]d9& langui%$ 9 a ,fr5*   
prison1 :ile ,k+ ,john 0 =c$ to grant ! 
,magna ,c>ta to 8 ,engli% subjects4 ,?us
 a victory = tyranny 9 ,fl&]s result$   
indirectly 9 a great] victory = ! cause 
( fre$om 9 ,engl&4 ,jeanne1 :ile h]     
husb& 0 9 prison1 0 ! titul> ,c\ntess ( 
,fl&]s1 b ,philip kept h] completely "u 

! influ5ce ( 8 c\nsellors4 ,m>g>et1     
mean:ile1 _h be5 m>ri$1 b h] husb& 0    
unable to make head aga9/ ! f>-rea*+ p[]
 ( ! ,k+ ( ,france4  ,x 0 "u ^!         
circum/ances t ! h]mit :o m5 ?\ght      
resembl$ ,c\nt ,baldw9 came on ! /age4  
,if he 0 an impo/or 8 c\p 0 %rewdly     
plann$1 = ,jeanne 0 z hat$ by ! ,flem+s 
z h] fa!r _h be5 lov$4 ,if he 0 really !
 good ,c\nt & ! ,emp]or 8 arrival 9     
,fl&]s seem$ to t di/ract$ c\ntry l a   
direct int]position ( ,provid5ce4 ,a    
great delegation f ,val5ci5nes w5t out  
to ! =e/ & hail$ him z _! ,c\nt & !n he 
at la/ admitt$ t he 0 inde$ ,baldw9 (   
,con/ant9ople4  ,8 tale 0 a /range "o1 b
 m easily believ$ 9 ^? wild days ?an x  
w\ld be n[4 ,he _h1 he ass]t$1 be5 w\nd$
 be=e ,adrianople & made a prison] by ! 
,bulg>ians4 ,:ile a captive a ,bulg>ian 
pr9cess saw him1 fell 9 love1 & contriv$
 to effect 8 escape aft] he _h promis$  
to m>ry h]4 ,once free1 h[ev]1 he rep5t$
 ( 8 pl$ge to m>ry an infidel1 & murd]$ 
8 b5efactress4 ,?is wick$ de$ 0 quickly 

foll[$ by 8 recapture by ! b>b>ians1 :o 
made him a slave & ev5 a bea/ ( burd54  
,escap+ at la/1 aft] _m ye>s1 he _h     
become a h]mit 9 p5ance = 8 great s94   
,! m5 ( ,val5ci5nes believ$ ?is /ory1 & 
p>don+ 8 self-confess$ crime z ( little 
mom5t1 s9ce x affect$ only an infidel1  
proclaim$ him _! ,c\nt4 ,! great t[ns ( 
,fl&]s flung op5 _! gates to him :]ev]  
he w5t1 & f9ally he held 8 c\rt 9       
,bruges4 ,8 neighb\rs1 ! ,dukes (       
,brabant & ,limb\rg1 & 8 =m] ally1 ! ,k+
 ( ,engl&1 ackn[l$g$ 8 claims1 :ile 8   
daught] ,jeanne fl$ to ,france =        
protection4  ,! *ief reason = believ+ t 
,baldw9 0 an impo/or is ! fact t at ?is 
crisis ( 8 c>e] he fail$ signally to %[ 
any ( ! decision & judgm5t t tw5ty ye>s 
be=e _h made ! true ,baldw9 ,emp]or4 ,to
 be sure1 tw5ty ye>s ( slav]y1 & !      
haunt+ memory ( ! beautiful ,m>ie (     
,*ampagne :o _h foll[$ him to h] dea?1 &
 ( ! ,bulg>ian pr9cess :om he _h s      
basely sla91 may h enfeebl$ 8 intellect4
 ,he 0 n[ an old man4 ,at all ev5ts1    

aft] a p]iod ( indecision he did ! v ?+ 
he nev] %\ld h done--he appeal$ to      
,philip = aid aga9/ 8 daught]4 ,summon$ 
to ,pronne1 :]e ! ,k+ ( ,france 0 !n    
hold+ c\rt1 he 0 subject$ to a trial by 
! royal ,c\ncil1 :i* cle>ly %[$ its     
det]m9ation to convict him z an impo/or4
 ,p]ceiv+ t he _h blund]$ into a trap1 !
 old man fl$ f ! ca/le & escap$ to      
,fl&]s4 ,"h1 h[ev]1 ! appeal to ,philip 
& its result1 toge!r ) mu* ,fr5* gold   
judici\sly exp5d$ 9 behalf ( ,jeanne1   
caus$ ! nobility to turn cold4 ,he      
det]m9$ to lay 8 cause be=e ! ,pope1 b  
:ile on 8 way to ,rome 0 captur$ & sold 
to ,jeanne :o ord]$ him to be hang$ 9   
*a9s 9 ! m>ket-place at ,lille betwe5   
two h\nds4 ,if he 0 ! true ,baldw91 aft]
 all1 few c>e]s 9 hi/ory (f] wid]       
contra/s ( glory & %ame4  ,illu/ration3 
,,hotel ,,m]ghelynck1 ,,ypres4  ,:e!r "o
 /ays at ,ypres a day or a week he w n  
lack = objects ( int]e/1 = ! ,clo? ,hall
 & ! ,ca!dral are b ! beg9n+ ( ! li/4 ,a
 day is h>dly too mu* to devote to ! rue

 de ,lille alone1 = "h are ! ,hospice   
,belle1 ) a numb] ( valuable old pa9t+s1
 & ! ,hotel-,muse ,m]ghelynck4 ,! latt] 
is an in/itution z unique z x is        
admirable4 ,built 9 #aggd by ,franois   
,m]ghelynck1 a ,treasur] & ,gr& ,bailiff
 ( ,ypres1 ?is f9e mansion is fill$ )   
furniture & objets d'art ( ! eighte5?   
c5tury com+ f ,fl&]s1 ,holl& & ,france &
 collect$ ) r>e ta/e & judgm5t4 ,9 its  
entirety x repres5ts ! resid5ce ( a     
nobleman ( ! p]iod1 complete d[n to !   
smalle/ detail1 ) e article 9 its prop] 
place1 z if ! own] _h j /epp$ out &     
might be expect$ back at any mom5t4 ,!  
sev5 pr9cipal rooms are panell$ ) c>v$  
wood4 ,! d9+-room is decorat$ )         
bas-reliefs repres5t+ all ( ! pr9cipal  
implem5ts ( husb&ry4 ,^! 7 c>v$ by      
,antony ,del$icque ( ,lille & h be5     
comp>$ ) ! "w 9 "s ( ! small] rooms 9 ! 
,palace ( ,v]sailles4 ,! music-room is  
simil>ly embelli%$ ) repres5tations (   
musical in/rum5ts1 & all h f9e panel    
friezes & gild$ c>v+s4 ,9 ea* room !    

proprietor ( ! mansion1 ,ar?ur          
,m]ghelynck1 ! great-gr&son ( ! orig9al 
own]1 has collect$ a complete equipm5t (
 eighte5?-c5tury furniture4 ,! d9+-room 
has r>e porcela9 f ,t\rnai1 ) ! preci\s 
gilt m>ks ( ! *oice/ make1 ! music-room 
has an old-"t h>psi*ord1 ! kit*5        
possesses an array ( old-"t pewt]1 copp]
 & brassw>e4 ,9 ! *amb]s ! same plan has
 be5 fai?fully c>ri$ out1 ev5 to plac+ !
 own]'s uni=ms & gala raim5t 9 !        
w>drobes4 ,p]mission to visit ^!        
delightful rooms is freely grant$ to all
 visitors to ,ypres )\t *>ge1 o!r ?an an
 optional fee to ! att5dant4 ,we 7 told 
t natives ( ! city are n admitt$1 b =got
 to ask ! c>etak] if ?is 0 true4  ,a    
little f>!r d[n ?is same rue de ,lille  
is an old edifice t = _m ye>s has be5   
call$ ! ,h\se ( ! ,templ>s4 ,x has be5  
re/or$ & is n[ us$ z ! ,po/ ,(fice--x 0 
= a long "t a brew]y--b x is n n[       
believ$ t ?is 0 ev] ! ,h\se ( ! fam\s   
m$ival ord]4 ,! ,templ>s1 h[ev]1 did    
erect at ,ypres _! fir/ h\se 9 ,europe1 

& x may well be t ?is /ructure 0 copi$ f
 x4 ,beyond ?is int]e/+ edifice we      
enc\nt]$ a grim-look+ old *ur*1 t ( ,/4 
,pet]1 )9 ! doorway ( :i* is a mo/      
curi\s m$ival ,calv>y4 ,?is *ur* is "o (
 ! olde/ 9 ,fl&]s1 hav+ be5 built 9     
#ajgc by ,rob]t ! ,frisian1 "o ( ! e>ly 
,c\nts4 ,on ?is /reet also /&s !        
,hospice ,/4 ,jean :i* 0 f\nd$ 9 #abgg4 
,x conta9s "o f9e timb]$ ceil+ room1 )  
panell$ walls1 call$ ! nuns' workroom1 &
 "s pa9t+s by ,k]el van ,yp]1 an obscure
 local arti/ ( ! sixte5? c5tury4        
,illu/ration3 ,,*ur* ,,( ,,/4 ,,pet]1   
,,ypres4  ,9 ?is section we 7 s =tunate 
z to see ! lace work]s1 ( :om !re are   
/ill sev]al hundr$1 mak+ po9t de        
,val5ci5nes outside ! doors ( _! t9y    
h\ses4 ,mrs4 ,pr(essor nev] tir$ ( wat*+
 ^! wom51--:o are = ! mo/ "p middle-ag$1
 :ile "s ( !m are v old--z _! nimble    
f+]s dext]\sly %ift$ ! innum]able little
 bobb9s to & fro1 :ile ! delicate fabric
 sl[ly took ! design ^u :i* !y 7 work+4 
,x is said t m ,val5ci5nes lace is made 

"h at ,ypres1 & at ,c\rtrai & among !   
little ,flemi% t[ns betwe5 ^! two       
cities1 ?an 9 ! ,fr5* city f :i* ?is f9e
 po9t d]ives its "n4  ,x is along ! rue 
de ,lille t ! visitor w 7let u hope67   
f9d ! wood5 h\se t is ! la/1 or ne>ly ! 
la/1 survival ( a type ( ar*itecture t 0
 once v common 9 ,ypres4 ,x is inf]ior  
to ! "o 9 ! ,clo? ,hall1 :i* also came f
 ?is /reet1 b is /ill 9 use--al?\gh x   
seem$ to be clos$ :5 we pass$ x4 ,a few 
/eps fur!r on we came to ! ,porte de    
,lille ) its ?ree semi-circul> t[]s1    
erect$ 9 #acie4 ,! ,porte is connect$ ) 
! op5 c\ntry beyond by a bridge across !
 wide moat1 9 :i* a /ately :ite swan 0  
swimm+4 ,! anci5t walls1 built by !     
fam\s milit>y eng9e] ,vauban1 ext5d "h =
 a long di/ance 9 bo? directions & are 9
 a fairly good /ate ( pres]vation4 ,at !
 ,porte de ,?\r\t1 :]e ! =tifications   
end on ! nor!a/]n side ( ! t[n1 !re is  
an op5-air swimm+ pool :i*1 accord+ to !
 local guidebook is free dur+ c]ta9 h\rs
 = m5 ,saturday & ,sunday1 = wom5       

,w$nesday1 = soldi]s ,?ursday & ,friday1
 & = ladies ,tuesday4 ,! di/9ction      
betwe5 ! wom5 :o c come on ,w$nesday & !
 ladies :o are admitt$ ,tuesday is n    
/at$4  ,f ! ,porte de ,lille we walk$   
along ! top ( ! ramp>ts t[>d ! railway  
/ation--a prom5ade full ( int]e/ & *>m4 
,! broad moat 9 :i* a doz5 sn[ :ite     
swans 7 swimm+1 ! huge trees ar*+       
ov]head1 ! qua9t little h\ses to our "r1
 ) n[ & !n a n>r[ /reet b5d+ back into !
 t[n z if invit+ u to foll[ & explore   
x--ev]y?+ seem$ to comb9e to make ?is "o
 ( our pleasante/ exp]i5ces 9 ,fl&]s1 & 
we regrett$ t we did n h weeks in/ead ( 
days 9 :i* to /udy ?is r>e old t[n &    
visit "s ( ! *>m+ old ,flemi% villages  
by :i* x is surr\nd$4  ,! causes = !    
decl9e ( ! city f ! pr\d position x     
occupi$ 9 ! ,middle ,ages to its        
comp>ative insignificance to-day c be   
sket*$ 9 a v few words4 ,l ! re/ (      
,fl&]s1 x _h fl\ri%$ exce$+ly 9         
consequ5ce ( ! ,hundr$ ,ye>s' ,w> betwe5
 ,france & ,engl&4 ,z comm]ce & indu/ry 

9 ^! two great neighb\r+ c\ntries       
decl9$1 t ( ! ,l[ ,c\ntries--:i* 7 !n   
enjoy+ a prolong$ p]iod ( comp>ative    
peace--augm5t$ ) abnormal rapidity4 ,x 0
 inevitable t :5 peace across ! fronti] 
0 re/or$ mu* ( ! trade t ,france _h     
tempor>ily lo/ %\ld return to x4 ,a     
s]ies ( great sieges cut (f ! wool      
traffic ) ,engl& t =m$ ! f\ndation ( !  
city's indu/ry & prosp]ity4 ,! fir/ ( ^!
 0 9 #achc :5 ! guildsm5 ( ,ypres       
successfully beat (f a p[]ful army f    
,gh5t1 aid$ by a l>ge cont+5t f ,engl&4 
,! plague1 t t]ror ( e ov]cr[d$         
indu/rial t[n 9 ^? days1 swept (f ?\s&s 
( p 9 #acdg & 9 #adij1 & a ?ird ( !     
inhabitants 9 #aeeb4 ,^! disa/]s /ill   
fur!r crippl$ ! clo? indu/ry4 ,9 #aehc &
 #aehd an eight mon?s' siege & ! plague 
toge!r r$uc$ ! population s fe>fully t  
:5 ! t[n at la/ surr5d]$ to ! ,pr9ce (  
,p>ma b>ely five ?\s& rema9$4 ,aft] !   
religi\s w>s 7 ov] x recov]$ "s ( its   
anci5t prosp]ity1 b betwe5 #afdh & #afgh
 x 0 besieg$ no less ?an f\r times1 be+ 

a bord] t[n & "o ( ! fir/ to be attack$ 
z ! =tunes ( w> sway$1 fir/ "o way & !n 
! o!r4 ,r\s$ by ! ravages ( ! plague !  
magi/rates clean$ ! city1 pass$ /r+5t   
sanit>y regulations1 pav$ ! /reets &    
built a co/ly sy/em ( sew]s--,ypres be+ 
"o ( ! fir/ cities 9 ,europe to h ^!    
mod]n improvem5ts4 ,wise z ^! /eps 71 !y
 came too late to arre/ ! decl9e ( !    
t[n's indu/ries & comm]ce4 ,"o by "o !  
artisans gave up ! battle aga9/ ! =ces t
 7 sapp+ ! f\ndations ( _! prosp]ity &  
mov$ away--"s to ,gh5t & ,bruges1 bo? ( 
:i* 7 already beg9n+ to decl9e2 o!rs to 
f>-(f ,engl&1 :]e !y rema9$ to lay !    
f\ndations ( ! va/ textile indu/ry t has
 s9ce gr[n up across ! ,*annel1 b :i*   
traces its orig9 back to ! artisans (   
,ypres 9 ! days :5 ! fame ( t until     
lately all b =gott5 t[n 0 kn[n f "o end 
( ! _w to ! o!r4     ,,*apt] ,,viii     
,,c\rtrai ,,& ,,! ,,battle ,,( ,,!      
,,spurs   ,our next exp$ition1 aft] !   
delightful visit at ,ypres1 0 to        
,c\rtrai1 :i* is only tw5ty-two miles   

di/ant1 al?\gh ! two plodd+ little      
omnibus tra9s t we took1 "o aft] ! o!r1 
7 m ?an an h\r gett+ u !re4 ,x 0 an h\r 
mo/ pleasantly sp5t1 h[ev]1 = we 7      
con/antly on ! look\t = ! fields ( flax 
t we _h read cov]$ ! valley ( ! ,riv]   
,lys z f> z eye c\ld see4 ,if ?is 0 ev] 
s x c]ta9ly 0 n ! case 9 ! summ] (      
#aiad1 = !re 7 m & l>g] fields ( b>ley &
 o!r small gra9s ?an ( flax4 ,/ill1 we  
saw a great _m plant+s ( ! latt]1 & z ! 
plant 0 9 full bloom ! sight 0 a v      
pretty "o--! delicate gre5 ( ea* field  
be+ fa9tly t+$ ) ! blue ( ! t9y fl[]s4  
,x did n seem to be v tall1 b x 0 /ill  
e>ly ,june & a v backw>d summ]4 ,we also
 pass$ _m fields 9 :i* ! flax ( !       
previ\s season 0 /ack$ to blea*1        
evid5tly ! crop f sev]al fields be+     
conc5trat$ into "o = ?is purpose4 ,!    
wat] ( ! ,riv] ,lys1 f :i* "s au?orities
 say ! ,fr5* ,fleur de ,lys d]ives its  
"n1 is said to be sup]ior to t ( all o!r
 riv]s = ! rett+ ( flax1 & at all ev5ts 
! rais+ & prep>ation ( ?is important    

/aple has be5 ! lead+ indu/ry 9 ?is     
region = c5turies1 al?\gh ,gh5t is m    
important z a flax manufactur+ c5tre4   
,pres5tly our de/9ation1 ( :i* ! ,flemi%
 "n is ,kortrijk1 came 9 sight1 & we    
/>t$--) ! ,pr(essor lead+ ! way1 z      
usual--= ! ,gr&e ,place4 ,"h we f\nd a  
m>ket go+ on1 ) num]\s boo?s & /alls    
arrang$ 9 crook$ little /reets1 & cr[ds 
( ?ick-set peasant wom5 ) big baskets   
exam9+ ! w>es display$ g+]ly z if afraid
 t too great a display ( int]e/ w\ld    
cause ! m]*ants to enhance _! prices4   
,amid ?is bu/le & confusion we work$ our
 way sl[ly to ! c5tre ( ! ,place :]e    
/ood ! small ivy-cov]$ ,belfry1 :i*     
dates f e>ly 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 & is "o
 ( ! prettie/ 9 ,fl&]s4 ,:5 ! city 0    
sack$ 9 #achb1 aft] "o ( its _m sieges1 
! ,belfry 0 "o ( ! few edifices to      
escape injury4 ,repair$ or re/or$ 9     
#adbc1 9 #aeai1 & aga9 9 #agag1 ?is     
little monum5t ( ! ,middle ,ages has    
come d[n to u 9 an admirable /ate (     
pres]vation4 ,orig9ally connect$ ) a    

small public m>ket1 les petites halles1 
x gradually came to be surr\nd$ )       
private h\ses until only its spire 0    
visible1 b 9 #ahii ^! 7 torn d[n & !    
,belfry left isolat$ z x is n[4 ,! clock
 orig9ally plac$ on ?is t[] is said by !
 hi/orian ,froiss>t to h be5 l'un des   
plus biaux que on seui/ tr\v] de*a ne   
dela la m]--"o ( ! mo/ beautiful "h or  
abroad--b 0 remov$ by ,philip ! ,bold1 !
 fir/ ( ! ,burgundian ,dukes to rule ov]
 ,fl&]s1 to ,dijon1 ! capital (         
,burgundy4 ,?is 0 9 #achb1 b 9 #acie ! p
 ( ,c\rtrai _h replac$ x by ano!r       
equally +5i\s4 ,we tri$ to ent] ! old   
t[]1 b f\nd "o entrance gu>d$ by ! al>m+
 sign1 ,haute t5sion--dang] de la mort1 
indicat+ t ! electric light company us$ 
! l[] "p ( ! edifice z a trans=m+       
/ation4 ,!re 0 ano!r small doorway1 b x 
did n appe> to h be5 op5$ = a long "t1 &
 we c\ld f9d no "o :o knew :o _h ! key4 
,:5 we fir/ ann\nc$ our int5tion to sp5d
 a ,summ] 9 ,fl&]s _m fri5ds prote/$1 ,b
 y d n speak ,flemi%--h[ d y expect to  

get along8 ,"r "h x may be /at$ t ?is   
bugbe> prov$ )\t f\ndation4 ,ev5 9      
,ypres1 :]e our ,belgian acqua9tances   
said we surely w\ld h tr\ble1 we f\nd   
only two or ?ree ( ^? ) :om we _h       
occasion to conv]se :o did n und]/&     
,fr5* at lea/ well en\gh to give u !    
in=mation we requir$4 ,on a few         
occasions1 :5 t\r+ ! poor] qu>t]s ( "s  
old ,flemi% t[n1 we 7 non-pluss$ = a    
mom5t1 b ! *ildr5 help$ u out 9 ^!      
em]g5cies by runn+ (f eag]ly to f9d "s  
"o :o spoke ,fr5*4 ,ev]y:]e we f\nd ! p 
accommodat+ & c\rte\s1 nev] surly z "o  
au?or says ^? he met 9 ^! v same t[ns 7 
:5 he visit$ !m half a doz5 ye>s ago4   
,to be sure1 our visits seldom took u   
into ! v little t[ns1 :]e1 no d\bt1     
,flemi% is (t5 spok5 exclusively--z our 
exp]i5ce 9 ,nieuport %[$4  ,! mo/ curi\s
 fact ab\t ! little ,k+dom ( ,belgium is
 t x is %>ply bi-l+ual1 ! l9e (         
dem>cation betwe5 ! ,fr5* & ! ,flemi%   
speak+ prov9ces runn+ across ! c\ntry f 
s\?we/ to nor!a/ a little to ! s\? (    

,brussels2 t city1 h[ev]1 be+ f> m ,fr5*
 ?an ,flemi%4 ,mo/ ( ! t[ns h two names1
 :i* usually mean ! same b are (t5 s    
diff]5t 9 =m t x is a wond] ! p !mselves
 d n get mix$ up n[ & !n4 ,= example1 ! 
,fr5* "n = ! capital ( ! prov9ce (      
,ha9aut is ,mons1 mean+ m\nta91 :ile !  
,flemi% "n is ,b]g51 :i* means ! same ?+
 b looks v diff]5t4 ,! important        
railroad junction ( ,bra9e-le-,comte    
betwe5 ,mons & ,brussels be>s ! que]    
,flemi% "n ( 's ,grav5-,brakel4 ,ev5 !  
po/age /amps & ! pap] money are pr9t$ 9 
! two languages1 :ile ! silv] money is  
app>5tly m9t$ 9 equal quantities ( ea*4 
,all public employs are requir$ by law  
to "k bo? languages1 s t ! public has no
 tr\ble ei!r at ! railway /ations or    
po/-(fices4 ,accord+ to (ficial /ati/ics
 publi%$ :ile we 7 !re1 #ch4ag p] c5t4 (
 ! population ( ! c\ntry speak only     
,fr5*2 #dc4ch p] c5t4 speak only        
,flemi%2 :ile #ah4ac p] c5t4 speak m ?an
 "o language & a few speak ,g]man only4 
,( ! bi-l+uals ov] #fj p] c5t4 decl>$ t 

!y ord9>ily spoke ,flemi%4  ,fac+ !     
,gr&e ,place1 & only a few /eps f !     
,belfry1 is ! ,hotel de ,ville1 an      
unprepossess+ /ructure ext]nally1 al?\gh
 ! hi/orians say t x 0 once mu* bett]   
look+4 ,x has1 at all ev5ts1 be5 re/or$1
 & ! /atues ( ! ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s t 7     
de/roy$ dur+ ! ,revolution replac$ by   
mod]n ones c>v$ by a local sculptor4    
,aft] f9d+ ! conci]ge we 7 %[n a small  
collection ( mod]n pa9t+s by ,belgian   
arti/s bequea!d to ! city by "o ( its   
weal?y sons4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 0 m]ely en    
r\te1 z x 71 to ! great %[-place (      
?is--z ( all o!r ,flemi% hotels de      
ville--! ,salle du ,conseil4 ,"h ! pice 
de rsi/ance is ! great *imney-piece1    
c>v$ 9 #aebe by unkn[n sculptors1 :o    
probably 7 natives ( ! city z !re 7     
sev]al ( good r5[n resid+ & work+ !re at
 t p]iod4 ,! elaborate c>v+s ) :i* ?is  
ma/]piece is decorat$ comprise ?ree     
ti]s4 ,at ! top ! figures repres5t !    
virtues3 ,fai?1 ,humility1 ,*>ity1      
,*a/ity1 ,g5]osity1 ,temp]ance1 ,pati5ce

 & ,vigilance4 ,9 ! middle section a    
s]ies ( pictures c>v$ 9 /one typify !   
vices3 ,idolatry1 ,pride1 ,av>ice1      
,s5suality1 ,jeal\sy1 ,gluttony1 ,ang] &
 ,idl5ess4 ,! l[e/ ti] conta9s reliefs t
 are suppos$ to %[ ! puni%m5t = ^!      
vices1 al?\gh ! idea is n always q easy 
to foll[4 ,9 ni*es project+ f ! middle  
section are f9e /atues1 c>v$ f wood1 (  
,*>les ,v 9 ! c5tre1 ) ,ju/ice & ,peace 
on ! opposite sides4 ,at ! "r & left    
sides ( ! *imney-piece are two m ti]s ( 
c>v+s1 b ( inf]ior int]e/ to ^? on !    
front4 ,! beam$ ceil+ ( ?is f9e room is 
wor?y ( at lea/ a glance1 = on ! corbels
 support+ x are "s ( ! mo/ curi\s c>v+s 
to be se5 9 ,fl&]s1 repres5t+ ! conque/s
 ( woman ov] man--beg9n+ ) ,adam & ,eve 
& ,samson & ,delilah1 & includ+ sev]al  
examples f pagan my?ology4  ,we 7 next  
conduct$ d[n-/airs to ! ,salle          
,e*ev9ale1 :]e !re is ano!r f9e         
*imney-piece :i*1 h[ev]1 0 mu* less     
int]e/+ ?an ! "o we _h j se54 ,?is room 
is fur!r embelli%$ ) sev]al frescoes by 

,guff5s & ,sw]ts1 examples ( ^: "w we _h
 already se5 at ,ypres4 ,! =m] arti/    
pa9t$ ! l>ge composition entitl$ !      
,dep>ture ( ,baldw9 ,,ix =              
,con/ant9ople1 & ! latt] ! m int]e/+    
picture ( ! ,consultation ( ! ,flemi%   
lead]s 9 ?is v room ! day be=e ! ,battle
 ( ,c\rtrai4 ,small] frescoes depict o!r
 notable sc5es 9 ! old t[n's hi/ory1    
:ile small c>v+s ne> ! ceil+ repres5t ! 
*ief virtues ( an upright judge4  ,on a 
hot ,july day1 9 ! ye> #acjb1 !re took  
place1 j outside ! anci5t walls ( !     
city1 ! mo/ fam\s ev5t 9 ! hi/ory (     
,c\rtrai4 ,?is 0 ! great ,battle ( !    
,spurs4 ,9 ord] to und]/& ! significance
 ( ?is conflict--:i* ju/ly ranks z "o ( 
! decisive battles ( ! _w--x is necess>y
 to g back ?ree-qu>t]s ( a c5tury to !  
,baldw9 ( ,con/ant9ople1 or ! impo/or :o
 assum$ 8 "n & came to an ignom9i\s end 
on ! gibbet at ,lille4 ,?is 0 9 ! ye>   
#abbe4 ,! foll[+ ye> ,philip ,augu/us   
=c$ or p]suad$ ,m>g>et1 ,baldw9's y\ng] 
daught]1 to leave ! loyal ,flem+ to :om 

%e _h be5 m>ri$ almo/ s9ce *ildhood & w$
 "o ( 8 reta9]s1 ,william ( ,dampi]re4  
,!n1 dur+ a p]iod ( m ?an fifty ye>s1 ! 
,k+s ( ,france 7 able to ex]t a /eadily 
increas+ influ5ce 9 ,fl&]s & r$uce !    
c\ntry m & m completely to a ,fr5*      
prov9ce4 ,f9ally1 9 #abif1 ! exactions (
 ! ,fr5* mon>*--:o1 at t "t1 0 ,philip !
 ,fair--became s humiliat+ t ,m>g>et's  
son1 ,guy ( ,dampi]re1 !n ! reign+      
,c\nt1 rebell$4 ,a brief w> foll[$1 end+
 9 ,guy's utt] defeat & imprisonm5t1 & 9
 #acjj all ,fl&]s 0 =mally annex$ to !  
,fr5* cr[n4  ,in/ead ( submitt+ tamely  
to ?is act ( aggression1 ! ,flemi%      
burgh]s 7 r\s$ to fight m furi\sly = _! 
fa!rl& ?an !y _h ev] done = _! ,c\nt4   
,at ,bruges a true lead] ( ! p appe>$ 9 
! p]son ( ,pet] de ,con9ck1 ! dean ( !  
!n all-p[]ful ,guild ( ! ,weav]s1 & "o (
 ! mo/ picturesque figures 9 m$ival     
hi/ory4 ,small & ill-fav\r$ 9 face &    
figure1 ) only "o eye1 & speak+ no      
language b ,flemi%1 he 0 able to ar\se !
 citiz5s to ! wilde/ pit* ( fury aga9/  

_! aggressors4 ,ano!r popul> h]o ( ! h\r
 0 ,john ,breidel1 ,dean ( ! ,but*]s'   
,guild1 & reput$ to be "o ( ! ri*e/ m5 9
 ,bruges2 :ile a ?ird 0 ,william (      
,juli]s1 ,provo/ ( ,mae/ri*t--a ,*ur*man
 turn$ soldi] = ! cause ( lib]ty4 ,^!   
?ree rais$ ! /&>d ( ! ,lion ( ,fl&]s to 
:i* ralli$ ! ,clauwa]ts1 z ! ,nationali/
 p>tisans 7 call$2 :ile ! fri5ds (      
,france 7 nam$--aft] ! ,lily (          
,france--! ,lilia]ts4 ,! latt] naturally
 includ$ ! magi/rates & (fice-hold]s ( !
 lead+ t[ns1 & 9 #acja1 :5 ,philip made 
a triumphal progress ?r\gh ! *ief cities
 ( 8 new dom9ions1 he 0 ev]y:]e receiv$ 
) mu* outw>d pomp4  ,illu/ration3       
,,/atue ,,( ,,pet] ,,de ,,con9ck ,,&    
,,john ,,breidel1 ,,bruges4  ,at ,bruges
 ! (ficial reception 0 ! mo/ gorge\s (  
all1 ! ri* g[ns ( ! wives & daught]s ( !
 burgh]s caus+ ,que5 ,isabella to       
exclaim1 ,i ?\ght ,i 0 alone ,que51 b "h
 ,i see six hundr$6 ,! mass ( ! p1      
h[ev]1 7 cold & sull51 & :5 ! ,k+       
proclaim$ "s public games no "o w\ld    

take "p 9 !m4 ,h>dly _h ! royal p>ty    
left ! city be=e an insurrection broke  
out4 ,de ,con9ck 0 arre/$1 b 8 foll[]s  
bur/ into ! prison1 &1 = a "t1 ! lead]s 
( ! ,lilia]ts 7 beh9d ! b>s4 ,a ,fr5*   
=ce soon ent]$ ! city & set !m free1 &  
,de ,con9ck fl$ to ,damme1 :]e ! ,lion (
 ,fl&]s wav$ unmole/$ ov] a rapidly     
increas+ ho/ ( ,clauwa]ts4  ,on ! #ag? (
 ,may1 #acjb1 a /ill /rong] army ( ,fr5*
 ent]$ ! city1 & x 0 rum\r$ t a g5]al   
massacre ( ! ,clauwa]ts 0 plann$ = !    
morr[4 ,)\t wait+ = ! bl[ to be /ruck1 !
 m5 f ,damme & ! surr\nd+ t[ns1 "u !    
lead]%ip ( ,de ,con9ck & ,john ,breidel1
 p\r$ into ! city be=e daybreak & ro>+  
,s*ilt end vri5dt--a battle-cry &       
password t no ,fr5*man c\ld pron\nce--!y
 ov]:elm$ ! p>tisans ( ! ,lily4 ,s sudd5
 & unexpect$ 0 ! attack1 9 ! d>kness &  
among n>r[ /reets ) :i* !y 7 n acqua9t$1
 t ! two ?\s& ,fr5* knights :o _h ent]$ 
! city s gaily on ! previ\s day c\ld (f]
 no resi/ance & 7 slaught]$ almo/ to a  
man4 ,b>ely =ty escap$ to tell ,k+      

,philip ( ! massacre1 :ile no record 0  
made ( ! numb] ( ,lilia]ts among !      
,flem+s !mselves :o 7 9 ! heaps ( dead t
 = ?ree days !reaft] 7 be+ buri$ 9 !    
fields outside ( ! city4 ,?is 0 ! fam\s 
,mat9 de ,bruges1 h>dly a glori\s day's 
"w consid]$ z a feat ( arms1 b bold     
en\gh :5 reg>d$ z a defiance by !       
artisans ( a s+le indu/rial t[n ( ! mo/ 
p[]ful mon>* ( ! age4  ,philip1 z 0 to  
be expect$1 0 furi\s1 & at once ga!r$ an
 army ! l ( :i* _h nev] be=e be5 se5 9  
,france2 :ile all ,fl&]s1 ) ! exception 
( ,gh5t :i* ! ,fr5* /ill held1 ralli$ to
 ! support ( ,de ,con9ck & 8 comrades4  
,scores ( ,flemi% nobles 7 at t "t      
langui%+ 9 ,fr5* prisons1 b ^? :o 7 free
 to come enli/$ "u ! ,lion ( ,fl&]s4 ,! 
army ( def5ce consi/$ = ! mo/ "p1 h[ev]1
 ( work+m5--memb]s ( ! great guilds (   
,bruges1 ,ypres1 ,aud5a]de & ! o!r      
,flemi% t[ns1 ) sev5 hundr$ ev5 f ,gh5t4
 ,ea* guild m>*$ "u its gorge\s bann]1 !
 m5 arm$ ) long pikes1 iron lances1 %ort
 swords1 & a sort ( club :i* !y         

d]isively call$ go$5dag1 or good morn+4 
,on ! eve ( ! battle a conf]5ce 0 held  
by ! lead]s ( ! army ( def5ce1 ?is be+ !
 sc5e depict$ 9 ! f9e fresco 9 ! ,hotel 
de ,ville4  ,ab\t n9e or t5 9 ! morn+ ( 
! foll[+ day ! ,fr5* army1 "s =ty ?\s&  
/rong1 0 se5 approa*+1 l$ by ! y\?ful   
,c\nt ( ,artois4 ,aft] a reconnoitre two
 exp]i5c$ (fic]s advis$ ! "y ,pr9ce n to
 attack ! ,flem+s at once1 b to worry !m
 ) 8 ar*]s & sep>ate !m f ! t[n :]e _!  
baggage & provisions 74 ,^! p h to eat  
?ree1 or f\r times a day--:5 !y />t to  
retreat1 fall on !m1 y w quickly w91 !y 
c\nsell$ him4  ,?is sage advice did n   
appeal to ! impetu\s "y ,c\nt1 or to 8  
valiant knights1 :o 7 burn+ ) eag]ness  
to av5ge ! ,mat9 de ,bruges4 ,!y        
confid5tly expect$ t at ! v sight ( _!  
ho/1 = ! mo/ "p m\nt$ knights1 ! c[>dly 
t[nsm5 w\ld turn & run4 ,nor did !y pay 
mu* he$ to ! %rewdness & skill ) :i* !  
,flemi% lead]s _h *os5 _! position4 ,9 !
 m>%y gr\nd 9 front ( ! ,flemi% army 7  
_m /reams & canals1 ! wat] conceal$ by  

bru%wood1 :ile ! ,riv] ,lys & !         
=tifications ( ! t[n protect$ !m aga9/  
an attack on ei!r flank or 9 ! re>4  ,z 
! ,fr5* knights rode =w>d ! fir/ ranks  
plung$ into ! hidd5 canals & /reams )   
:i* ! m>%--s9ce kn[n z ! ,blo$ ,me]s*1  
or ,bloody ,m>%--0 int]sect$4 ,!n1 z    
five c5turies lat] at ,wat]loo1 ea*     
succe$+ rank pu%$ 9 ! "o be=e x1 !      
canals became *ok$ ) dr[n+ m5 & /ruggl+ 
horses1 & x 0 n until ^! ob/acles 7     
lit]ally fill$ ) dead bodies t any "p ( 
! great ,fr5* ho/ c\ld approa* ! ,flemi%
 l9es4 ,!n ! ,flemi% guildsm5 7 = a     
mom5t h>d press$1 b !y quickly ralli$ & 
! pr\d ,fr5* nobles 7 beat5 d[n b5ea? _!
 cruel pikes & clubs by hundr$s4 ,!     
,c\nt ( ,artois himself l$ ! res]ves    
into ! mle :5 ! day 0 all b lo/ & f\ght 
8 way cle> to ! great /&>d ( ! ,lion (  
,fl&]s1 at ! foot ( :i* he fell4 ,_!    
lead] kill$1 ! ,fr5* s\ght to flee1 b ! 
r\t & slaught] la/$ ?r\gh ! long summ]  
twilight & f> into ! night4  ,accord+ to
 an anci5t *ronicle1 tw5ty ?\s& ,fr5*m5 

w5t d[n to dea? t day1 includ+ sev5 ?\s&
 knights1 elev5 hundr$ nobles1 sev5     
hundr$ lords1 & sixty-?ree c\nts1 dukes 
or pr9ces4 ,z to ^! /ati/ics !y diff] 9 
e hi/ory1 b c]ta9 x is t ! fl[] ( ,fr5* 
*ivalry p]i%$ 9 unhe>d ( numb]s be=e !  
onslaught ( ! ,flemi% t[nsm51 & x is    
said t 9 all ,france !re 0 no great h\se
 t did n m\rn a fa!r1 a bro!r or a son4 
,to ! m5 ( ,fl&]s1 on ! o!r h&1 !       
victory 0 complete beyond _! wilde/     
dreams4 ,!y pi\sly gave ?anks to ,notre 
,dame de ,gro5+he1 ! ,abbey ov]look+ !  
,bloody ,m>%1 & hung up sev5 hundr$     
gold5 spurs tak5 f ! battlefield 9 !    
,*ur* ( ,notre ,dame4 ,= a "t ,philip ! 
,fair s\ght to prolong ! conflict1 b 8  
losses _h be5 too t]rible 9 ?is battle =
 him to risk ano!r "o aga9/ ! n[        
?or\ghly ar\s$ guildsm51 & a few ye>s   
lat] a treaty 0 sign$ t completely      
resc9d$ ! act ( annexation & recognis$ !
 indep5d5ce ( ,fl&]s once m4  ,9 !      
little ,museum ( ,pa9t+s we f\nd a mo/  
int]e/+ picture ( ! fam\s battle by !   

great ,belgian arti/1 ,nicaise de       
,keys]4 ,x is said t ! hi/orian ,vois9  
sugge/$ ?is subject to ! pa9t]1 !n a "y 
man ( tw5ty-?ree1 & he devot$ eight     
mon?s to its execution4 ,exhibit$ at !  
,salon at ,brussels 9 #ahcf1 x made a   
s5sation ?r\gh its m]it1 ! hi/orical    
importance ( ! subject & ! y\? ( !      
arti/1 & 0 pur*as$ by ! city ( ,c\rtrai 
by means ( a popul> subscription4 ,x    
repres5ts ! decisive mom5t ( ! battle :5
 ! ,c\nt ( ,artois1 unhors$ & dis>m$1 is
 ab\t to be kill$ by ! lead] ( ! but*]s'
 guild1 ,john ,breidel4 ,! museum       
conta9s a numb] ( o!r int]e/+ works by  
,belgian pa9t]s1 *iefly mod]n1 includ+  
"o by ,con/ant9 ,meuni]1 & a numb] by   
natives ( ,c\rtrai4 ,?is la/ feature is 
*>act]i/ic ( all ^! little museums & is 
a mo/ happy idea4 ,9 ,france ! museums (
 f9e arts 9 ! prov9cial t[ns (t5 =m 9   
!mselves admirable memorials ( ! fam\s  
arti/s :o 7 born or work$ !re1 ! names (
 ! mo/ important be+ c>v$ ab\t ! frieze 
or br\ght to m9d 9 "s equally prom95t   

way4 ,9 ye>s to come x is to be hop$ t  
^! little ,flemi% t[ns c foll[ ?is      
example & erect suitable /ructures to   
h\se _! art treasures--( :i* su* a      
collection z ?is "o at ,c\rtrai =ms a   
f9e nucleus--& 9 s do+ /rive to         
commemorate all ( ^? to :om ! t[n is    
indebt$ = its arti/ic fame4 ,9 ! case ( 
,c\rtrai ! ro/] w\ld be a long "o1 =    
local au?orities h record$ ! names ( m  
?an two hundr$ pa9t]s1 sculptors1       
ar*itects1 engrav]s1 metal-work]s1      
m9iaturi/s & ma/]-mak]s ( tape/ries4    
,unlike _m ,flemi% t[ns1 ,c\rtrai is    
less r5[n$ = its *ur*es ?an = its civic 
monum5ts4 ,! great *ur* ( ,/4 ,m>t91 ^: 
picturesque ,go?ic t[] rises high above 
! ,gr&e ,place1 al?\gh ! edifice itself 
is "s hundr$ y>ds di/ant f ! ,place     
itself1 dates f #achb1 :5 an old] *ur*  
on ! same site 0 burn$ by ! victori\s   
troops ( ,*>les ,,vi :5 !y sack$ ! city 
aft] ! ,battle ( ,rosbecque4 ,x 0       
complet$ 9 #adci & conta9s a numb] (    
int]e/+ pa9t+s & c>v+s1 sev]al ( !m by  

local arti/s & sculptors4 ,! m important
 ,*ur* ( ,notre ,dame1 ) its squ>e      
unf9i%$ t[]1 dates f #abaa & 0 f\nd$ by 
,baldw9 ( ,con/ant9ople4 ,at t "t !     
,c\nts ( ,fl&]s _h a ca/le at ,c\rtrai &
 x 0 at ! side ( ?is t ,c\nt ,baldw9 & 8
 fair wife ,m>ie locat$ _! great *ur*1 (
 :i* ! f\ndation /one 0 laid be=e !     
,c\nt dep>t$ on ! crusade f :i* he 0    
de/9$ nev] to return4 ,9 ! ,*apel ( !   
,c\nts1 :i* 0 built 9 ! f\rte5? c5tury1 
are mural pa9t+s ( ! ,c\nts & ,c\ntesses
 ( ,fl&]s1 ! e>li] ones dat+ f ! c5tury 
dur+ :i* ! *apel itself 0 con/ruct$4  ,!
 arti/ic ma/]piece ( ?is *ur* is !      
,rais+ ( ! ,cross1 by ,van ,dyck4 ,?is  
f9e picture 0 pa9t$ = ?is v *ur* & 0    
deliv]$ by ! arti/ 9 #afca1 ! *ur* /ill 
possess+ 8 receipt = ! "o hundr$ livres 
de gros 7ab\t two hundr$ & tw5ty doll>s7
 paid = x4 ,9 #agid ! picture 0 c>ri$ to
 ,p>is & plac$ 9 ! ,l\vre1 & on its     
re/oration to ! ,ne!rl&s 0 sev]al ye>s 9
 ! museum at ,brussels1 be+ return$ to  
its prop] place 9 ,notre ,dame 9 #ahag4 

,dur+ ! night ( ,decemb] #f?-#g?1 #aijg1
 x 0 my/]i\sly /ol51 its disappe>ance   
caus+ a great commotion1 b ,janu>y #bcrd
 x 0 discov]$ 9 a field at ,pit!m1 :]e x
 _h la9 expos$ to ! ra9 & sun%9e s9ce   
its removal f ! *ur*4 ,app>5tly ! robb]s
 _h become fright5$ & ab&on$ x1 or      
possibly 7 prev5t$ f return+ to get x by
 ! hue & cry t _h be5 rais$4 ,at any    
rate1 x did n seem to be mu* ! worse =  
its little out+1 & 0 duly hung up aga9  
:]e any t\ri/ :o has a franc to sp>e c  
see x4  ,x 0 9 ,notre ,dame t ! victors 
aft] ! battle ( ,c\rtrai hung up sev5   
hundr$ gold5 spurs1 m or less1 pick$ up 
f ! battle-field4 ,^! 7 hung 9 a little 
side *apel at pres5t decorat$ by two    
black lions1 b ! orig9al spurs 7 tak5   
away :5 ! ,fr5* sack$ ! city aft] !     
disa/r\s battle ( ,rosbecque4  ,a little
 beyond ?is int]e/+ old *ur* ! rue      
,guido ,gezelle--nam$ aft] ! poet :o =  
_m ye>s 0 a vicaire at ,notre ,dame & ^:
 bu/ /&s 9 a little bosquet1 or wood$   
p>klet1 h>d by--conducts u to ! fam\s   

old ,broel t[]s :i* gu>d an anci5t      
bridge across ! ,lys4 ,^! f9e specim5s (
 m$ival milit>y ar*itecture are 9 an    
admirable /ate ( pres]vation4 ,!        
,spuytorre1 or ,s\!rn t[]1 0 fir/ built 
by ,philip ( ,alsace 9 ! twelf? c5tury1 
0 pillag$1 & p]haps :olly de/roy$1 by   
,*>les ,,vi & re/or$ or rebuilt by      
,philip ! ,bold1 ,duke ( ,burgundy1 9   
#achf4 ,!re 0 n mu* to see 9 ?is t[]1   
save "s dungeons bel[4 ,!               
,+helbrugtorre1 or ,s\? t[]1 0 built at 
! same "t z ! bridge1 9 #adaa-adac4 ,!re
 0 =m]ly an ar*eological museum 9 ?is   
t[]1 b we 7 told t x _h be5 remov$ to ! 
,gr&es ,halles1 ne> ! railroad /ation1  
:i* h rec5tly be5 re/or$4 ,we           
subsequ5tly visit$ ! collections !re1   
:i* 7 v int]e/+ b too miscellane\s to be
 describ$4 ,return+ f ! t[]s by ! rue de
 ,gro5+he we paid a brief visit to ! f9e
 monum5t ( ! ,battle ( ,gro5+he1 :i* is 
! ,flemi% "n = ! ,battle ( ! ,spurs4 ,at
 ! summit a bronze ,pucelle ( ,fl&]s    
br&i%es a go$5dag1 "o ( ! celebrat$     

w>-clubs t did su* deadly "w on t fam\s 
day4 ,?is monum5t1 by ,godefroid        
,devreese1 a native ( ,c\rtrai1 0 erect$
 by popul> subscription 9 #aije4  ,x is 
9 ^! small] ,flemi% t[ns t ! visitor :o 
takes ! "t to j\rney a little away f !  
closely built h\ses & r\gh pav$ /reets (
 ! city w f9d himself aft] a few m9utes 
( brisk walk+ out 9 ! gre5 fields & w9d+
 lanes ( ! op5 c\ntry4 ,! trip is well  
wor? ! small ex]tion1 = n[h]e 9 ! _w c  
"o see su* m>vell\s wild fl[]s--fleurs  
des *amps--z 9 ,belgium4 ,e :eat field  
is spr9kl$ ) ! mo/ wond]ful poppies1 ( a
 ri* deep r$ t ev5 ! *oice/ artificial  
fl[]s 9 ,am]ica _c equal2 ) blue        
corn-fl[]s gr[+ tall & big & ( an       
indescribably deep blue t at times %ades
 into purple2 & along ! edges is a ?9   
fr+e ( small purple fl[]s1 %ap$ l morn+ 
glories b mu* small]1 ! ,engli% "n ( :i*
 ,i d n "k4 ,9 ! grass ( ! pa/ure l&s   
are innum]able t9y :ite m>gu]ites1 ) "h 
& !re a tuft ( daisies4 ,along ! c\ntry 
lanes "o c pick a score ( o!r v>ieties (

 wild fl[]s :i* "h bloom all summ] long1
 n to m5tion ! exquisite purple hea!r t 
makes e hillside gl[ ) col\r 9 ,augu/ & 
?r\gh\t ! fall4 ,to u1 h[ev]1 ! :eat    
fields ) ! poppies & corn-fl[]s 7 by f> 
! mo/ *>m+ z we w&]$ up & d[n ,we/      
,fl&]s 9 ! mon? ( ,june4 ,(t5 "o or !   
o!r grew s pr(usely z to give ! :ole    
field a ri* mass ( col\r1 at times all  
r$1 9 o!r places a solid blue4  ,z we   
/roll$ along ?r\gh ^! fl[] g>d5s ( !    
fields we enjoy$ /ill ano!r treat1 =    
ev]y:]e 9 ,belgium ! skyl>ks ab\nd 9    
myriads4 ,to "o :o has nev] he>d !m !re 
are few enjoym5ts m exquisite ?an to    
wat* & li/5 z ^! t9y m9/rels ( ! sky g  
?r\gh _! little p]=mance4 ,sudd5ly1     
almo/ be=e ! eye c locate x1 "o %oots   
upw>d f ! wav+ :eat 9 front ( u1 8 ri*  
trills fairly mak+ ! air vibrate )      
melody4 ,high] & yet high] he goes1 8   
little w+s /ruggl+ wildly1 z if ! ef=t (
 fly+ & s++ at ! same "t 0 too mu* =    
him4 ,nev]1 = an in/ant1 h[ev]1 does !  
music /op1 & z 8 t9y =m rises f>!r &    

f>!r into ! air he gradually beg9s to   
drive =w>d 9 a wide curve--b /ill ris+ &
 /ill flutt]+ madly--until he becomes a 
m]e speck aga9/ ! sky4 ,!n1 all at once1
 ! flutt]+ w+s spread outw>d & are /ill1
 & he beg9s to volplane sl[ly d[nw>d 9 a
 long sl[ sweep1 :ile 8 notes become if 
possible m %rill & vibrat+ ?an ev]4 ,!n1
 l a fla%1 z he ne>s ! gr\nd1 he d>ts   
%>ply out ( sight & ! song is ov]4  ,all
 day long ! pleasant1 fl[]-b$eck$ fields
 r+ ) ?is music--at times a doz5 are s++
 9 ! air at once4 ,:5 ! sun is high !   
birds (t5 rise until completely out (   
sight1 only _! fall+ music tell+ ! li/5]
 t !y are /ill !re4 ,t[>d ev5+ ! flights
 are %ort]1 b z ! calm ( approa*+ night 
settles ov] ! broad & peaceful fields x 
seems z if ! songs are sweet] ?an at any
 o!r "t4  ,two ( ! greate/ ,engli% poets
 h giv5 u wond]ful ^w pictures ( ?is    
m>vell\s little bird1 :i* surely s+s z  
sweetly 9 ,belgium z 9 ,engl&4 ,%elley 9
 8 fam\s ,ode1 describes ! song itself2 
8 metre imitat+ ! brea?less ru% ( !     

a]ial notes3          ,hail to !e1 bli! 
_s6           ,bird ?\ nev] w]t1        
,t f ,heav51 or ne> x1           ,p\re/ 
?y full he>t         ,9 pr(use /ra9s (  
unprem$itat$ art4          ,high] /ill &
 high]           ,f ! e>? ?\ spr+e/1    
,l a cl\d ( fire2           ,! deep blue
 ?\ w+e/1         ,& s++ /ill do/ so>1 &
 so>+ ev] s+e/4  ,9 ,wordswor?'s noble  
l9es ! ?\ght is less ^u ! song1 b dwells
 ^u ! "m bird & h] hidd5 ne/3           
,e!real m9/rel6 pilgrim ( ! sky6        
,do/ ?\ despise ! e>? :]e c>es ab\nd8   
,or1 :ile ! w+s aspire1 are he>t & eye  
,bo? ) ?y ne/ ^u ! dewy gr\nd8     ,?y  
ne/1 :i* ?\ can/ drop into at w1        
,^? quiv]+ w+s compos$1 t music /ill6   
,,*apt] ,,ix  ,,gh5t ,,9 ,,! ,,days ,,( 
,,! ,,flemi% ,,c\nts   ,dur+ ! ,middle  
,ages ,gh5t 01 = ne>ly five c5turies1 "o
 ( ! greate/ cities 9 ! ,occid5tal _w4  
,if y h ev] be5 9 ,fl&]s1 wrote ,jean   
,froiss>t1 ne> ! close ( ! f\rte5?      
c5tury1 y are aw>e t ,gh5t is ! sov]eign
 city ( ,fl&]s 9 p[]1 9 wisdom1 9       

gov]nm5t1 9 ! numb] ( its h\ses1 9      
position & 9 all else t goes to make a  
great & noble city1 & t ?ree great riv]s
 s]ve to br+ to x %ips f e "p ( ! _w4   
,aft] fur!r eulogis+ ! ?ree riv]s ref]r$
 to1 :i* 7 ! ,s*eldt1 ! ,lys & ! ,lieve1
 ! *ronicl] ( ,val5ci5nes add$ t ! city 
c\ld put eighty ?\s& m5 9 ! field1 & t x
 w\ld require a ho/ ( two hundr$ ?\s&   
w>riors to capture x4 ,^! /atem5ts1 ?\gh
 no d\bt exagg]ations1 d n seem to !    
t\ri/ s impossible ( belief z           
correspond+ figures reg>d+ ! =m]        
greatness ( ! o!r cities 9 ,fl&]s1 =    
,gh5t is /ill a great & noble city1 :ile
 "s ( its once puissant rivals are n[   
little m ?an c\ntry villages4 ,9 fact1  
to ! visitor :o approa*es ! c5tre ( !   
t[n f ei!r ( its two pr9cipal railway   
/ations--x has five 9 all--! city seems 
to be ess5tially a mod]n "o1 ) f9e      
/reets simil> 9 e way to ^? to be f\nd 9
 ,antw]p or ,brussels1 & x is !re=e ) a 
%ock ( surprise t he sudd5ly f9ds       
himself rid+ pa/ "o ho>y old /ructure   

aft] ano!r ^: fr[n+ grey walls & massive
 ar*itecture bespeak an antiquity       
/rangely at v>iance ) _! surr\nd+s4  ,to
 ! ,pr(essor1 & to all /ud5ts ( ! ?rill+
 hi/ory ( ?is fam\s old ,flemi% t[n1 !  
mo/ int]e/+ ( ^! rem9d]s ( ! ,gh5t (    
five hundr$ or "o ?\s& ye>s ago is !    
impos+ ,*teau des ,comtes1 or ,ca/le ( !
 ,c\nts1 ! ru9s ( :i* /& 9 ! v he>t ( ! 
t[n ) ! busy life & bu/le ( ! ,gh5t (   
to-day surg+ ab\t !m4 ,hi!r1 z soon z   
our belong+s 7 safely deposit$ 9 !      
hotel1 we came--almo/ z a matt] ( c\rse4
 ,9 "p ?is magnific5t relic ( ! feudal  
ages dates f ! n9? c5tury1 :5 x 0 call$ 
! new ca/le1 ,novum ,ca/ellum1 to       
di/+ui% x f a /ill old] ca/le situat$   
h>d by t 0 de/roy$ ab\t ! ye> #ajaj4    
,two ( ! ?ree /ories compos+ ?is orig9al
 /ructure are /ill intact & c be se5 by 
! visitor :5 he inspects ! cell> ( !    
keep4 ,"h ! columns & ar*es are ( lat]  
con/ruction1 b ! walls--:i* are ov] five
 & a half feet ?ick--are ! "w ( build]s 
:o put ^! /ones 9 place m ?an a ?\s&    

ye>s ago4 ,x 0 9 #aahj1 accord+ to !    
,lat9 inscription t c /ill be read j    
inside ( ! ma9 entrance f ! ,place ,/e4 
,ph>alde1 t ,philip ( ,alsace--son ( !  
,di]ick ( ,alsace :o br\ght ! ,holy     
,blood to ! *apel ( ,/4 ,basil at       
,bruges--erect$ ! pres5t /ructure4 ,its 
purpose 0 to *eck ! unb\nd$ arrogance ( 
! inhabitants ( ,gh5t1 :o _h become too 
pr\d ( _! ri*es & ( _! =tifi$ h\ses1 :i*
 look$ l t[]s4 ,! ,c\nt _h be5 9        
,pale/9e two ye>s be=e & _h greatly     
admir$ "s ( ! /rong ca/les erect$ !re by
 ! crusad]s & in/ruct$ 8 build]s to     
imitate ^! models1 :i* he no d\bt       
describ$ to !m4  ,illu/ration3          
,photograph by ,e4 ,sacr4 ,,ca/le ,,(   
,,! ,,c\nts1 ,,gh5t4  ,aft] inspect+ !  
rema9s ( ! e>li] ca/le we m\nt$ !       
/aircase at ! left ( ! entrance t[]4    
,?is leads to ! top ( ! out] ca/le wall 
& c be foll[$ entirely ar\nd ! great    
ellipse =m$ by ! complete /ructure4 ,f e
 side f9e views c be _h ( ! surr\nd+    
city & ! moat & ,riv] ,lieve :i* gu>d ! 

ca/le on ! opposite side f ! ,place4    
,com+ to ! squ>e t[] beh9d ! entrance   
gateway we 7 %[n a room on ! fir/ /ory  
=m]ly us$ z a prison & torture *amb]4 ,f
 ! top ( ?is t[] ! bann] ( ! ,c\nt 0    
hoi/$ :5 ! m5 ( ,gh5t 7 call$ ^u to     
foll[ _! ov]-"l to w>4 ,! gateway bel[1 
at ! corn] ( ! ,place ,/e4 ,ph>alde & ! 
rue de la ,monnaie1 has a tragic int]e/ 
f ! fact t "h 7 plac$ ! two rail+s1     
call$ les bailles1 betwe5 :i* ^? s5t5c$ 
to dea? by ! ,c\ncil ( ,fl&]s 7 execut$4
 ,executions also (t5 took place 9 !    
out] c\rty>d betwe5 ! ext]ior wall & !  
,keep1 or inn] /ructure4 ,9 ?is y>d1 9  
#adde1 ! procession ( ! ,ord] ( ! ,gold5
 ,fleece =m$ = its m>* to ! *ur* ( ,/4  
,bavon1 & "o c imag9e h[ gay ) bann]s & 
fair ladies ! old ca/le mu/ h be5 on t  
occasion4  ,! inn] ca/le1 usually /yl$ !
 ,palace1 0 ! actual resid5ce ( ! ,c\nts
 ( ,fl&]s :5ev] !y *anc$ to be /opp+ 9 !
 city4 ,?anks to ! skilful re/oration ( 
! gov]nm5t1 ! v>i\s p>ts ( ?is edifice c
 be se5 9 approximately _! orig9al      

condition1 save = ! ri* tape/ries & !   
scant b solid furniture ) :i* ! rooms 7 
=m]ly made habitable4 ,! *amb]s ( !     
,c\nt & ,c\ntess are p>ticul>ly f9e     
specim5s ( ! liv+ qu>t]s ( ! m$ival     
nobility1 q ap>t f _! _m hi/oric        
associations4 ,bel[ ! =m] is ! entrance 
to ! und]gr\nd prison built by ,philip (
 ,alsace4 ,x is eighte5 feet deep1 &    
ext5ds t5 & "o-half feet bel[ ! level ( 
! c\rty>d1 :ile "o ( ! walls is sev5 & !
 o!rs six feet ?ick4 ,a little air      
filt]s 9 f a zig-zag op5+ 9 "o wall1 b  
no light4 ,! prison]s 7 let d[n into ?is
 horrible cav]n by means ( a ladd]1 or a
 basket atta*$ to a rope1 aft] :i* ev5 !
 op5+ by :i* !y ent]$ 0 clos$ & !y 7    
left alone 9 ! d>k4 ,= m ?an six        
c5turies ?is cell 0 9 con/ant use1 & "o 
_c b wond] :e!r milady ! ,c\ntess 9 h]  
sweet *amb] ov]head ev] _h h] dreams    
tr\bl$ by visions ( ! despair+ victims 9
 _! b$s ( slime :o 7 "h await+ ! ,c\nt's
 decision z to _! f9al fate4 ,x seems t 
?is prison1 fe>ful ?\gh x mu/ h be5 to  

^? inc>c]at$ !re1 0 n "o ( ^? oubliettes
 ( :i* ! ,ba/ille & _m ano!r m$ival     
ca/le _h s _m4 ,s f> z kn[n1 x 0 only   
us$ = prison]s await+ trial1 or z a     
species ( solit>y conf9em5t = s]i\s     
crimes4 ,9 #afeg a s*ool-tea*] accus$ ( 
tea*+ h]etical doctr9es to 8 pupils 0   
conf9$ "h ?irte5 mon?s1 b !re is no     
record ( any "o be+ flung d[n into ?is  
pit to be =gott54 ,/ill1 x mu/ be said t
 su* proce$+s w\ld n be likely to become
 a matt] ( record1 & v little is kn[n   
ab\t :at w5t on beh9d ^! grim walls :5 !
 ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s & ,dukes ( ,burgundy   
held absolute & undisput$ sway4 ,any "o 
:o ask$ inconv5i5t que/ions w\ld v      
probably h come "h himself6  ,! ,great  
,hall1 :i* is ab\t "o hundr$ &          
tw5ty-five feet long by f fifty to sixty
 feet 9 wid?1 is a *apt] 9 ! hi/ory (   
,fl&]s by itself4 ,"h ! ,c\nts1 & _!    
successors1 ! ,dukes ( ,burgundy1 held  
_m ( _! great banquets & /ate functions 
( v>i\s k9ds4 ,l\is ( ,maele 9 #acdf &  
,philip ! ,good 9 #adde gave /ate       

banquets 9 ?is hall ( :i* long acc\nts h
 be5 pres]v$ 9 ! contempor>y *ronicles4 
,! latt]1 :i* 0 held on ! occasion ( !  
sev5? meet+ ( ! ,knights ( ! ,gold5     
,fleece already m5tion$1 mu/ h be5 q a  
trem5d\s affair4 ,at "o end ( ?is ,hall 
! ,c\ncil ( ! ,vieux-,b\rg us$ to       
pron\nce s5t5ce ^u prison]s1 & half a   
doz5 fam\s treaties & _m ( m9or         
importance 7 proclaim$ 9 ?is room4 ,no  
d\bt1 also1 ! ,great ,hall 0 us$ z !    
*ief liv+-room ( ! ca/le on less =mal   
occasions1 :5 ! ,c\nt & ,c\ntess p]haps 
d9$ on a rais$ dais at "o end1 :ile !   
?rong ( c\rti]s & reta9]s fea/$ noisily 
f>!r d[n ! hall4 ,on su* occasions "o c 
imag9e h[ ! great /one fireplace1 a doz5
 feet wide & sev5 or eight feet high1   
mu/ h ro>$1 :ile ! tor*es & c&les us$ to
 supplem5t ! feeble light f ! n>r[ w9d[s
 fl>$ & s5t _! smoke up to ! grimy      
raft]s ov]head4 ,! great room1 n[ s     
empty & sil5t1 0 !n gay ) ! v>iegat$    
co/umes ( ! old5 "t1 :ile its walls e*o$
 to ! songs & laught] ( ! boi/]\s ?rong4

  ,!re are half a score ( o!r rooms to  
be se53 ! kit*5 ) its fireplace big     
en\gh to roa/ an ox :ole2 ! resid5ce ( !
 ,ca/ellane or keep] ( ! ca/le2 ! small 
audi5ce *amb] ne> ! b$rooms ( _!        
highnesses--:i* 0 us$ on ord9>y         
occasions in/ead ( ! great hall--&      
sev]al o!rs4 ,( !m all ! mo/ int]e/+ is 
! anci5t /able1 :i* is ent]$ f ! ca/le  
y>d4 ,x seems h>d to believe t ?is va/  
vault$ room1 ) its spl5did columns &    
,romanesque ar*es 0 ev] design$ or us$ z
 a /able1 b su* ! hi/orians all av] 0 ! 
case4 ,9 appe>ance x resembles an e>ly  
*ur* or *apel4 ,9 a glass case at "o    
side is a gruesome collection (         
skeletons t 7 uncov]$ "h 9 #aijd1       
presumably ^? ( prison]s :o 7 secretly  
execut$ no "o kn[s h[ _m ye>s ago4 ,aft]
 ! f\rte5? c5tury ! ca/le ceas$ to be   
occupi$ by ! sov]eigns z a resid5ce1 & !
 /able1 no long] ne$$ = horses1 became a
 torture *amb] & cont9u$ to be us$ = ?is
 purpose until ! close ( ! eighte5?     
c5tury4 ,x is "h t ! beautiful &        

un=tunate ,jacquel9e1 ,c\ntess ( ,ha9aut
 & ,holl&1 is said to h be5 conf9$ by   
,philip ! ,good :5 t amiable mon>* 0    
try+ to p]suade h] to "p ) h] patrimony4
 ,%e resi/$ bravely & 0 f9ally releas$1 
b h] p[]ful & wily antagoni/ subjugat$  
h] at la/4 ,! ,pr(essor read1 or 0 told1
 t !re is ano!r prison cell bel[ ! wat]s
 ( ! moat1 & also a passage1 miles 9    
l5g?1 lead+ out to ! op5 c\ntry & int5d$
 = escape 9 case a foe besieg+ ! ca/le  
seem$ likely to take x1 b ^! we 7 n able
 to discov] nor did ! (ficial guide to !
 ca/le appe> to "k any?+ ab\t !m4       
,speak+ ( sieges1 ! ca/le has witness$ m
 ?an "o4 ,! ,novum ,ca/ellum1 :i* prec$$
 ! pres5t edifice1 0 besieg$ 9 #aabh by 
,di]ick ( ,alsace4 ,9 #acjb1 a few mon?s
 be=e ! ,battle ( ! ,spurs1 ! citiz5s ( 
,gh5t rose en masse aga9/ ! %]iffs ( ,k+
 ,philip ( ,france1 :o took refuge "h4  
,! infuriat$ cr[d1 arm$ ) pikes1 axes & 
swords1 beat ^u ! gates & f9ally set    
fire to ! ca/le4 ,at ?is ! besieg$ gave 
up1 & all )9 7 =c$ to run a fe>ful      

gauntlet4 ,)\t ! ca/le gates ! p =m$ a  
d5se mass1 bri/l+ ) pikes & spe>s1 ?r\gh
 :i* a n>r[ lane 0 kept op54 ,z ! late  
def5d]s ( ! ca/le em]g$ !y _h to pass   
d[n ?is av5ue ( /eel1 & :oev] _h        
committ$ any crime aga9/ ! burgh]s nev] 
rea*$ ! f>!r end alive1 :e!r he 0 "o ( !
 "l high %]iffs or a page4 ,9 #acch !   
,c\nt himself1 ,l\is ( ,maele1 0 "h     
besieg$ by ,jacques ,van ,artevelde1 &  
=c$ to make t]ms ) ! great tribune4  ,! 
lat] hi/ory ( ! /ructure itself is      
int]e/+ & curi\s4 ,already 9 #acjb      
hovels _h be5 built aga9/ ! ca/le walls 
on ! l& side4 ,9 #acej a m9t 0 in/all$  
)9 ! ca/le1 :]e x rema9$ until suppress$
 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 & f ! same ye> !   
,c\rt ( ! ,c\nt held sessions "h4 ,x 0  
us$ less & less z a resid5ce aft] ?is1 b
 f #adjg to #aggh 0 ! seat ( ! ,c\ncil (
 ,fl&]s1 :i* succe$$ ! ,c\rt ( ! ,c\nts4
 ,9 #aggi ! build+s us$ by ! c\rt 7 sold
 & 9 #agig & #agih ^? ( ! ,assembly ( ! 
,vieux ,b\rg also pass$ into private    
h&s4 ,! ,ca/ellany ( ! ,vieux ,b\rg 0 = 

_m ye>s a public inn1 & 9 #ahjg a       
factory 0 e/abli%$ 9 ! ,keep1 ! ,great  
,hall be+ us$ z a ma*9e-room4 ,!        
,ca/ellany !n became a cotton sp9n+     
mill1 0 p>tly burn$ 9 #ahbi1 b rebuilt &
 cont9u$ 9 use z a mill until #ahhd4    
,mean:ile o!r small build+s 7 erect$    
ar\nd ! old walls until !y 7 entirely   
conceal$1 & a guidebook ( ?is p]iod     
/ates t ( ! old ca/le no?+ n[ rema9s b !
 entrance4 ,9 #ahhg "s ar*eologi/s /irr$
 ! municipal & national gov]nm5ts to    
action ) a view to sav+ & re/or+ ?is    
spl5did monum5t ( ! ,middle ,ages1 !    
,gateway hav+ already be5 acquir$ by !  
nation 9 #ahgb4 ,! "w ( demoli%+ !      
build+s t _h clu/]$ ab\t ! old walls & (
 re/oration la/$ f #ahhi till #aiac1 :5 
at la/ ! /ructure 0 br\ght into !       
condition t ! visitor beholds to-day4 ,9
 its pres5t =m x is unque/ionably "o ( !
 mo/ int]e/+ & important examples (     
feudal ar*itecture 9 ,europe4 ,)9 its   
sombre walls ! /ud5t has1 9 records (   
/one1 an epitome ( ! hi/ory ( t5        

c5turies4  ,! ,pr(essor in=m$ u t1 9 !  
c\rse ( 8 rese>*es1 he _h run across a  
ref]5ce to "s leg5d or popul> tradition 
conc]n+ a siege ( ,gh5t 9 ! ye> #icj1 or
 !reab\ts1 by ! ,k+s ( ,engl&1 ,scotl& &
 ,irel&4 ,! city1 accord+ to ?is tale1 0
 bravely def5d$ by ,di]ick1 ,"l (       
,dixmude1 & all ! attacks ( ! besieg]s 7
 repell$ = _m mon?s4 ,_! maje/ies f     
across ! ,*annel 7 naturally mu* inc5s$ 
at ?is unexpect$ resi/ance1 & w>n$ !    
burgh]s & _! valiant *ief t if !y did n 
surr5d] )9 tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 !y w\ld raze 
! city to ! gr\nd & s[ corn on its ru9s4
 ,not)/&+ ?is ?reat1 to ! fulfilm5t (   
:i* ! k+s a=esaid took a mighty oa?1 !  
m5 ( ,gh5t f\ght /ubbornly on1 & f9ally 
! besieg]s 7 =c$ to give up _!          
ent]prise4 ,! ,engli% mon>*1 h[ev]1 9   
ord] to fulfil 8 v[ & !reby ease 8      
consci5ce1 humbly begg$ p]mission ( !   
victors to all[ him to ?r[ a gra9 ( corn
 9 ! m>ket-place4 ,?is mode/ reque/ 0   
grant$1 b to prev5t any su* /ratagem z !
 "o t prov$ s successful 9 ! fam\s siege

 ( ,troy1 a t9y hole 0 made 9 ! city    
wall & ! mon>* requir$ to crawl ?r\gh   
alone1 return+ ! same way aft] !        
corn-?r[+ p]=mance 0 ov]4 ,f ?is        
circum/ance ! "n ( ,engel&e-gat 0       
d]isively giv5 to ! little /reet lead+ f
 ! ,be/room-,porte to ,/4 ,mi*el--a "n  
:i* ,pryse ,l4 ,gordon 9 8 book on      
,holl& & ,belgium1 writt5 9 #ahcd1 /at$ 
0 /ill reta9$ at t "t4 ,we 7 unable to  
f9d x1 h[ev]1 9 "o ( our e>ly morn+     
tramps1 al?\gh we f\nd a rue            
d',anglet]re :i* runs into ! ,place ,/4 
,mi*el directly 9 front ( ! *ur*1 & may 
h d]iv$ its "n f t ( ! e>li] /reet :i*1 
q possibly1 x may h replac$4 ,! great   
plan ( ! city drawn by ,hondius %[s a   
va/ numb] ( /reets & lanes t to-day h   
entirely disappe>$4 ,! leg5d1 h[ev]1 may
 h _h "s basis 9 fact1 al?\gh ! ?ree k+s
 7 no d\bt a fanciful embelli%m5t add$  
by ! peasants z !y repeat$ ! /ory ( "s  
e>ly attack4 ,!re 7 pl5ty ( small       
pot5tates 9 ^? days pr[l+ ab\t to seize 
:atev] 0 n well def5d$1 or gave promise 

( ri* booty1 )\t go+ across ! ,*annel to
 look = !m4  ,x 0 at ab\t ?is p]iod1 9  
fact a little e>li]1 t ano!r ( ! fam\s  
monum5ts ( ,gh5t 0 erect$4 ,?is is !    
,abbey ( ,/4 ,bavon1 :i* alone w\ld     
ju/ify a visit to ! city if !re 7 no?+  
else to see4 ,a primitive abbey on ?is  
site is said to h be5 f\nd$ ab\t ! ye>  
#fca by ,/4 ,am&1 an e>ly mission>y1 :o 
d$icat$ x to ,/4 ,pet]4 ,"o ( ?is       
prelate's conv]ts 0 a ri* nobleman nam$ 
,all[91 :o took ! "n ( ,bavon on 8      
conv]sion & retir$ into a mona/]y4 ,a   
second abbey took ! "n ( ,/4 ,bavon1 !  
deceas$ monk hav+ be5 canoniz$1 & ar\nd 
^! two religi\s in/itutions a little    
settlem5t grew up t 0 de/9$ to exp& into
 ! mighty city ( ,gh5t4 ,at ,/4 ,bavon1 
!re=e1 ! visitor beholds n m]ely ! ru9s 
( an anci5t & fam\s abbey b ! bir?place 
( ! city t has play$ s great a "p 9 !   
hi/ory ( ,fl&]s & ( ,europe4 ,:5 ,baldw9
 ,,ii di$ 8 wid[1 ! daught] ( ,alfr$ !  
,great1 _h him buri$ at ! mona/]y ( ,/4 
,pet]1 to :i* %e made lib]al donations4 

,successive ,c\nts & ,c\ntesses foll[$  
?is example1 ! two abbeys becom+ ri* &  
p[]ful1 & ! t[n soon became ! home (    
num]\s m]*ants :o took advantage ( !    
protection af=d$ by ^! religi\s         
in/itutions1 & also ( ! /rategic        
location ( ! t[n at ! junction ( ?ree   
riv]s4 ,! ,quai au ,bl & ! ,quai aux    
,h]bes date f ?is epo*1 ! m]*ants       
spe$ily e/abli%+ a m>ket = ! sale ( gra9
 & o!r products4 ,! ,fi% ,m>ket & !     
fam\s ,m>* du ,v5dr$i1 or ,friday       
,m>ket1 soon foll[$ & ,gh5t _h begun !  
developm5t t 0 de/9$ to make x1 = ?ree  
c5turies1 "o ( ! greate/ trad+ c5tres 9 
! _w4  ,! pres5t build+s ( ! ,abbey date
 f ! elev5? & twelf? c5turies1 ! orig9al
 /ructures hav+ be5 de/roy$ dur+ ! t5?  
c5tury4 ,x 0 dur+ ! ?irte5? & f\rte5?   
c5turies t ! ,abbey atta9$ ! z5i? ( its 
p[]4 ,"h1 9 #acfi1 0 solemnis$ ! m>riage
 ( ,philip ! ,bold1 ,duke ( ,burgundy1 )
 ,m>g>et1 ! daught] ( ,l\is ( ,maele1 ! 
la/ ( ! ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s to be kn[n by t 
title only4 ,?is ev5t virtually end$ !  

long l9e ( ,flemi% ,c\nts1 = ! title    
!reaft] became "o ( _m simil>ly held by 
! p[]ful ,dukes ( ,burgundy & _!        
successors & 0 only us$ on /ate         
occasions1 or :5 x s]v$ _! purpose4 ,!  
un=tunate ,mi*elle1 ! fir/ wife (       
,philip ! ,good1 0 int]r$ "h4 ,by a     
/range irony ( fate x 0 ,*>les ! ,fif? (
 all m51 ! valiant ,protector ( ! ,fai?1
 head & front ( ! mon>*s :o rema9$      
/eadfa/ly loyal to ! ,ca?olic ,*ur*1 :o 
began ! "w ( de/roy+ ?is spl5did &      
anci5t mona/]y4 ,to build ! great =tress
 by :i* he held 9 awe ! turbul5t citiz5s
 ( ,gh5t he ord]$ ! demoli%m5t ( a      
consid]able "p ( its build+s & !        
erection on its site ( 8 citadel1 !     
,*teau des ,espagnols4 ,! ,calv9i/s     
cont9u$ ! "w ( de/ruction 9 #aeha1 !    
,fr5* wreck+ ! build+s /ill fur!r1 & !  
revolt ( #ahcj complet+ ! ru9 ( :at 0 9 
its day ( prosp]ity "o ( ! f9e/ mona/ic 
in/itutions 9 ,europe4  ,s9ce #ahcd !   
ru9s h be5 c>efully protect$ aga9/ fur!r
 injury2 &1 z !y /&1 give ! obs]v] a mo/

 impos+ realisation ( _! =m] gr&eur4 ,! 
,refectory1 or d9+-hall1 is /ill fairly 
intact1 & is us$ z a museum ( sculptures
 sav$ f ! wreck ( ! o!r build+s1 &      
includ+ "s f\nd 9 o!r p>ts ( ! city4 ,"o
 ( ^! is a tomb/one ?\ght to be t (     
,hub]t ,van ,eyck1 :ile ano!r is !      
,homme du ,beffroi1 "o ( ! f\r /one     
/atues erect$ 9 #acch on ! corn]s ( !   
,belfry4 ,a baptismal font f\nd 9 ! ru9s
 ( ! ,abbey conta9s a curi\s bas-relief 
repres5t+ ,adam & ,eve be+ expell$ f    
,p>adise4 ,x is n1 h[ev]1 9 ^! deta*$   
items t ! visitor w f9d ! *ief int]e/ & 
inspiration ( ! anci5t ,abbey1 b 9 !    
g5]al views t 9 e direction give a      
conception ( ! =m] va/ ext5t & ri*ness (
 ! build+s4 ,9 _! pres5t condition !    
ru9s =m a s]ies ( pictures ( wond]ful   
beauty1 n only 9 ! rema9s ( _!          
ar*itectural & arti/ic spl5d\r1 b       
because ,nature1 k9d] ?an man1 has cov]$
 ! sc>s made by ! despoil]s ) h] *oice/ 
tape/ries ( trail+ v9es & gl[+ fl[]s &  
spread h] s(te/ c>pets ( v]dure along ! 

sil5t & des]t$ cloi/]s4  ,illu/ration3  
,,ru9s ,,( ,,! ,,abbey ,,( ,,/4 ,,bavon1
 ,,gh5t4  ,return+ to ! he>t ( ! city1  
ano!r mem5to ( ! e>lie/ p]iod ( ! city's
 gr[? attract$ our att5tion4 ,?is 0 !   
,*teau ( ,gir>d le ,diable 7,gir>d !    
,devil7 ! fir/ ( ! monum5ts to be       
enc\nt]$ if "o arrives by ! ,s\!rn      
railway /ation4 ,?is edifice1 n[        
completely re/or$ & us$ z ! depository (
 ! prov9cial ar*ives1 dates f #abaf4    
,ap>t f ! ext]ior1 h[ev]1 :i* reproduces
 ! orig9al appe>ance ( ! ca/le1 ! only  
portion ( int]e/ to ! visitor is ! crypt
 :i* is ov] "o hundr$ feet long & ne>ly 
=ty-five feet 9 wid?1 mak+ x "o ( !     
l>ge/ 9 ,fl&]s4 ,! vault$ ro( is        
support$ by massive r\nd columns & =ms a
 notable example ( ! ogival /yle (      
ar*itecture4 ,we s\ght 9 va9 to f9d :at 
! noble ,sir ,gir>d did or did n d to   
receive 8 satanic appellation4 ,f !     
records he appe>s to h be5 a tol]ably   
wor?y citiz51 hold+1 z did 8 fa!r be=e  
him1 ! position ( ,*tela9 ( ,gh5t4 ,a   

=tunate m>riage1 app>5tly1 gave him !   
means to erect ?is exceptionally f9e    
ca/le1 :i* has--l _m ( ! old build+s 9 !
 city--_h a mo/ v>i$ hi/ory4 ,= two or  
?ree c5turies x rema9$ ! resid5ce ( !   
,*tela9s ( ,gh5t1 !n1 = a "t1 0 us$ by !
 city z an ars5al1 0 occupi$ by !       
,hironimites1 & !n became 9 succession a
 s*ool1 a mad-h\se1 an orphan asylum1 a 
h\se ( correction1 & a fire h\se4 ,its  
spaci\s halls n[ conta9 ! preci\s *>t]s 
( ! ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s & innum]able hi/oric
 docum5ts ( ,gh5t & ! o!r cities ( !    
prov9ce4  ,! mo/ anci5t *ur* 9 ,gh5t is 
t ( ,/4 ,ni*olas 9 ! ,m>* aux ,gra9s4 ,x
 0 f\nd$ 9 #iab1 or slightly m ?an a    
?\s& ye>s ago4 ,! orig9al edifice 0     
burn$ 9 #aabj1 s t ! pres5t /ructure    
dates f t c5tury4 ,a picturesque feature
 ( ! ext]ior is ! r[ ( t9y "o-/ory h\ses
 snuggl+ up aga9/ ! side ( ! great *ur* 
on ! rue ,petite ,turquis4 ,! we/ w9d[  
is an extremely l(ty lancet ( great     
beauty4 ,! doorway on ?is side 0 = _m   
ye>s cr[d$ betwe5 commonplace ?ree-/ory 

h\ses1 ! *ur* build]s ( ,fl&]s app>5tly 
c>+ v little h[ ! impos+ maje/y ( _!    
noble *ur*es might be m>r$ by adjac5t   
build+s1 b ^! h n[ be5 remov$ & ?is     
front ( ! /ructure cle>$4  ,among !     
treasures ( ?is *ur* are ! relics ( ,/4 
,anne1 said to h be5 br\ght f ,j]usalem 
by ,godfrey ( ,b\illon4 ,9 ! sacri/y is 
"s oil f ! tomb ( ,/4 ,ni*olas ( ,myra &
 ,b>i1 aft] :om ! *ur* 0 nam$4 ,?is sa9t
 di$ 9 #cdb & is ! subject ( _m         
picturesque m$ival leg5ds4 ,ev5 9       
infancy he is alleg$ to h obs]v$ ! fa/s1
 refus+ ! brea/ ( 8 nurse4 ,he us$ to   
look p>ticul>ly aft] *ildr51 "y wom51   
sailors & travell]s4 ,on "o occasion he 
came to an inn :]e ! wick$ inn-keep] f$ 
8 gue/s ) ! fle% ( "y *ildr54 ,/4       
,ni*olas imm$iately w5t to ! tub :]e !  
bodies ( ! innoc5ts lay 9 br9e &1 reviv+
 !m1 re/or$ !m all alive & :ole aga9 to 
_! p>5ts4 ,?is incid5t is frequ5tly     
depict$ by ,flemi% pa9t]s4 ,aft] 8 dea? 
! bones ( ! ,sa9t 7 buri$ at ,myra1 b 7 
/ol5 "s c5turies lat]--accord+ to c]ta9 

monki% *ronicles--&1 aft] _m adv5tures 9
 :i* ! _s ( ! deceas$ prelate           
p>ticipat$1 ! oil :i* 0 f\nd 9 8        
s>cophagus 0 br\ght "h4 ,jean ,lyon1    
,dean ( ! guild ( boatm51 & "o ( ! h]oes
 ( ! ,:ite ,hoods 9 _! resi/ance to !   
cruel ,l\is de ,maele1 0 buri$ 9 ?is    
*ur*4  ,"o ( ! o!r *ur*es ( ,gh5t1 !    
,ca!dral ( ,/4 ,bavon1 dates 9 "p f !   
same e>ly p]iod z ! o!r monum5ts        
describ$ 9 ?is *apt]4 ,orig9ally d$icat$
 to ,/4 ,john1 ! "n 0 *ang$ to ,/4      
,bavon 9 #aedj & x became a ca!dral n9e 
ye>s lat]4 ,x is n1 h[ev]1 ! ca!dral--( 
:i* ! nave & transepts 7 n complet$     
until #aecc to #aeei--;b ! e>li] *ur* ( 
,/4 ,jean t figures 9 ! hi/ory ( ,gh5t  
"u ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s4 ,( ?is *ur* ! crypt1
 :i* dates f ! elev5? or twelf? c5tury1 
& ! *oir1 dat+ f ! ?irte5? c5tury1 /ill 
rema94 ,our exploration ( ! cold &      
gloomy crypt s]v$ to br+ back ! e>li]   
p]iod ( ! hi/ory ( ,gh5t 9 two ways--n  
only is its pres5t appe>ance und\bt$ly  
mu* ! same z x 0 eight or n9e c5turies  

ago1 :5 ! city ( ! weav]s 0 j beg9n+ to 
make its p[] & fame kn[n 9 ! l&1 b !    
hi/orian sees "h ! tombs ( _m ( ! great 
m5 ( ! city4 ,= ! mo/ "p !re 7 m]*ant   
pr9ces1 ari/ocrats1 ! lead]s ( !        
,lilia]t faction--^? :o sid$ ) ! ,k+ (  
,france & took 8 lilies z _! emblem4    
,"u its e>ly ,flemi% ,c\nts1 ! hi/ory ( 
,gh5t 01 on ! :ole1 "o ( rapid & almo/  
un9t]rupt$ expansion4 ,! m]*ants :o     
flock$ to ! little t[n ar\nd ! ,abbeys (
 ,/4 ,pet] & ,/4 ,bavon 7 foll[$ by     
simil> ?rongs ( artisans1 & z ! comm]ce 
( ! city grew apace s its indu/rial     
importance exp&$4 ,on ! dea? ( ,philip (
 ,alsace1 :o _h erect$ ! ,*teau on !    
,place ,/e4 ,ph>alde to hold ! city 9   
*eck1 its burgh]s wre/$ f ! feeble h&s (
 8 wid[ ! fam\s ,keure ( #aaia1 a sort (
 local ,magna ,c>ta :i* confirm$ all    
pre-exi/+ privileges & grant$ o!rs4 ,!  
same ye> ! ,treaty ( ,arras1 by :i*     
,baldw9 ,,viii c$$ ,arras & ! ,c\nty (  
,artois to ,philip ,augu/us1 ! wily &   
l&-grasp+ ,k+ ( ,france1 made ,gh5t     

virtually ! capital ( ,fl&]s--a position
 t _h hi!rto be5 occupi$ by ,bruges4 ,l 
its rival on ! ,roya1 ,gh5t _h become an
 important c5tre = ! wooll5 trade )     
,engl&1 & also = all ! bran*es ( wooll5 
manufacture1 ! sc>lets ( ,gh5t be+ r5[n$
 f> & wide4 ,! ?irte5? c5tury--9        
consequ5ce ( ! folly ( ,baldw9 (        
,con/ant9ople :o1 z we h se51 w5t (f on 
a fanatical ent]prise to ! ,f> ,ea/1    
leav+ ! ri*e/ c\nty 9 ! _w at ! m]cy ( 8
 enemies--saw a /eady decl9e 9 ! p[] ( !
 ,c\nts2 &1 :ile ! ,k+s ( ,france pr(it$
 mightily by ?is situation1 ! %rewd     
burgh]s ( ,gh5t1 ,bruges1 ,ypres & ! o!r
 p[]ful ,flemi% communes 7 n backw>d 9  
ext5d+ & secur+ _! own p[]s also4 ,!    
result 0 t ! successive ,c\nts &        
,c\ntesses 7 =c$ to submit to repeat$   
encroa*m5ts on _! au?ority4 ,9 #abbh    
,c\nt ,f]r& e/abli%$ a ,c\ncil (        
?irty-n9e memb]s :i* soon became a      
virtual olig>*y & ! actual rul] ( !     
city4 ,?is body1 :ile ma9ta9+ at fir/   
fairly fri5dly relations ) ! ,c\nts1    

soon began to treat ) o!r nations & !   
o!r cities 9 ,fl&]s z if x 0 ! actual   
sov]eign4 ,!n1 z ! ,k+ ( ,france1 t[>d !
 close ( ! ?irte5? c5tury1 began to give
 evid5ce ( an int5tion to seize ! ri*   
c\nty ( ,fl&]s = himself--?us despoil+  
bo? ! ,c\nts & ! burgh]s at ! same      
"t--,gh5t jo9$ he>tily 9 ! g5]al movem5t
 t[>d a national resi/ance4 ,9 #abig !  
,c\nt ,guy grant$ ! city a new ,keure1  
or *>t]1 ev5 m lib]al ?an t ( #aaia1 &  
=m$ an alliance ) ,engl& aga9/ ! common 
foe4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 came to no?+1 & all   
,fl&]s 0 ov]-run by ! victori\s ,fr5*   
troops4 ,gh5t1 aft] a brief resi/ance1  
yield$1 & ! ,fr5* ,k+1 mak+ lib]al      
concessions to w9 ! support ( ! mo/     
p[]ful ( all ! ,flemi% communes1 !      
,lilia]ts1 or support]s ( ! ,lily (     
,france1 7 tempor>ily hold+ ! upp] h& :5
 ! a/\nd+ tid+s came ( ! ,battle ( !    
,spurs4     ,,*apt] ,x  ,,! ,,age ,,:5  
,,gh5t ,,0 ,,gov]n$ ,,by ,,its ,,guilds 
,x 0 on ! #ab? ( ,july1 #acjb1 t !      
guildsm5 ( ,fl&]s--*iefly1 z we h se51  

^? f ! two cities ( ,bruges &           
,ypres--humbl$ ! *ivalry ( ,france &    
demon/rat$ ! fact t ! guilds ( ! great  
,flemi% communes 7 a p[] to be reckon$  
)4 ,obvi\sly1 :5 ! greate/ mon>* ( ! day
 _h be5 s decisively beat5 !re 0 no     
long] any "q z to ! relative importance 
( ! guilds & ! local ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s4 ,!
 latt]1 ?\gh /ill figur+ prom95tly 9 !  
hi/ory ( ! "t1 7 unable to cope ) !     
might ( _! unit$ subjects1 & only by !  
help ( _! ov]lords ( ,france1 by brib]y 
& ev5 by d[nright trea*]y1 7 !y able to 
ma9ta9 !mselves on _! tott]+ ?rones at  
all4 ,?is p]iod is ! mo/ int]e/+ 9 !    
long hi/ory ( ,fl&]s1 = x 0 dur+ !      
f\rte5? c5tury t ! l& ( ! ,flem+s j     
miss$ becom+ a nation1 &1 possibly1 a   
republic4 ,t x fail$ 0 due to ! fact t1 
:ile !re exi/$ a spl5did & indomitable  
_s ( fre$om 9 e true ,flemi% brea/1 !   
s5se ( loyalty 0 local in/ead (         
national4 ,to 8 guild & 8 commune !     
,flem+ 0 int5sely loyal1 b 8            
patriotism--f9e z x 0--0 too n>r[4 ,ea* 

commune act$ solely = itself1 unit+ ) ! 
o!rs 9 "t ( great & imp5d+ p]il1 b (t5  
s5d+ its armies to fight a si/] commune 
ov] "s trifl+ dispute z soon z ! common 
dang] 0 ov]4 ,! pr9ces 7 able1 by       
cunn+ly tak+ advantage ( ?is defect 9 ! 
,flemi% "*1 to play "o commune aga9/    
ano!r &1 by divid+ ! ho/s ( ! guildsm51 
to e/abli% f9ally a tyranny too p[]ful  
to be ?r[n (f4 ,= "o hundr$ & fifty ye>s
 aft] ! ,battle ( ! ,spurs1 h[ev]1 !    
guilds--al?\gh n[ & !n tempor>ily       
defeat$--71 9 ! ma91 supreme ?r\gh\t !  
l5g? & bread? ( ,fl&]s1 & x 0 /ill ano!r
 c5tury be=e ! la/ sp>k ( civic fre$om  
at ,gh5t 0 f9ally ext+ui%$4  ,two days  
aft] ! great fight at ,c\rtrai !        
victors1 head$ by ! r$\btable ,pet] de  
,con9ck1 ,william ( ,juli]s & ,guy (    
,namur1 ent]$ ! city ( ,gh5t & conv]t$ !
 too lukew>m magi/rates to ! popul>     
side4 ,! patrician ,lilia]ts 7 expell$ f
 ! magi/racy & _m 7 kill$ or driv5 f !  
city4 ,! ,c\nt f\ght /ubbornly on1 nor  
did ! w> ) ,france end imm$iately1 b 9  

almo/ e in/ance ! guildsm5 7 able to    
ma9ta9 ! results ( _! great victory &   
firmly e/abli% ! f\ndation ( _! p[]4 ,9 
! gov]nm5t ( ! commune ( ,gh5t _! voice 
0 a pot5t "o4 ,naturally ! wool-sp9n]s &
 weav]s 7 ! dom9ant organisations1 :ile 
! petits-mti]s1 or m9or indu/ries1 7    
also repres5t$4  ,! appr5tice sy/em 0   
rigidly en=c$ among all ! guilds1 b !   
policy ( ! organisations 0 lib]al 9 ?is 
respect--= example1 an appr5tice 0 (t5  
s5t = a ye>'s j\rney 9 o!r cities or    
c\ntries 9 ord] to obta9 a wid] k ( 8   
craft4 ,! guildsm5 _h a he>ty & hone/   
pride 9 good & skilful workman%ip1 & !  
(fic]s ( ! guilds sup]vis$ ! quality ( !
 goods turn$ out & impos$ p5alties =    
poor workman%ip or ! use ( inf]ior      
mat]ials4 ,ea* guild _h its own h\se or 
meet+-place1 & :ile ! f9e guild h\ses on
 ! ,m>* aux ,gra9s date f a some:at lat]
 p]iod1 !y 7 no d\bt prec$$ by e>li]    
/ructures4 ,x 0 "o ( ! dreams ( !       
,pr(essor to rummage ab\t 9 ^! anci5t   
edifices1 por+ ov] ! ar*ives ( ! guilds 

& inspect+ ! rooms & halls :]e _!       
(ttimes /ormy meet+s 7 held4 ,9 ?is he 0
 de/9$ to be disappo9t$1 = :ile !       
ext]iors ( sev]al ( ^! hi/oric build+s h
 be5 c>efully re/or$1 ! int]iors are n[ 
devot$ to private uses & conta9 little (
 int]e/ to ! visitor4 ,! ar*ives h be51 
= ! mo/ "p1 pres]v$ 9 ! anci5t ca/le (  
,gir>d ! ,devil4 ,"s ( ! old guild      
bann]s /ill exi/1 b ! guild h\ses       
!mselves are only ! empty %ells ( !     
p[]ful organisations t once made !m _!  
homes4  ,illu/ration3 ,photograph by ,e4
 ,sacr4 ,,po/ ,,(fice1 ,,*ur* ,,( ,,/4  
,,ni*olas1 ,,belfry ,,& ,,ca!dral1      
,,gh5t4  ,! mo/ fam\s /ructure 9 ,fl&]s 
dates f ?is epo* 9 ! t[n's hi/ory4 ,?is 
is ! ,belfry t has look$ d[n on ! r$    
ro(s ( ,gh5t = ne>ly six hundr$ ye>s4 ,!
 fir/ ,belfry 0 begun 9 #aahc1 b !      
pres5t /ructure 0 built 9 #acac-acci1   
s9ce :5 x has be5 sev]al times modifi$ &
 re/or$--n always successfully4 ,! late/
 re/oration 0 c>ri$ out by ! municipal  
au?orities z a prep>ation = !           

,int]national ,exposition held at ,gh5t 
9 #aiac & 0 c>efully & intellig5tly     
done4 ,!re are ?ree hundr$ & fifty-five 
/eps 9 ! /aircase by :i* visitors asc5d 
! t[]1 & ! climb is "o t ri*ly repays ^?
 :o make x4 ,on a cle> day "o c see     
beyond ,bruges to ! nor?we/1 z f> z     
,antw]p to ! ea/ & ,aud5a]de to ! s\?4  
,s d5sely peopl$ is ! ,flemi% pla9 t ^! 
great cities lie almo/ close en\gh      
toge!r to be )9 s\nd ( great ,rol&4     
,?is 0 ! r5[n$ bell :i* ! burgh]s (     
,gh5t _h ca/ & hung high on _! ,belfry z
 an emblem ( ! city's fre$om f tyranny &
 a tocs9 to summon ! /urdy guildsm5 to  
its def5ce :5 dang] ?reat5$4 ,x bore !  
foll[+ inscription 9 ,flemi%3      ,myn5
 naem is ,roelant1 als ick clippe dan i/
 brant     ,als icke luyde1 dan i/ /orm 
9 ,vla5d]l&t4  ,freely translat$1 ?is is
 :at ! bell gave z its autobiography3   
,my "n is ,rol&2 :5 ,i speak s(tly !re  
is fire at h&1     ,b :5 ,i ro> l\dly x 
means w> 9 ,fl&]l&4  ,! orig9al ,rol& 0 
ca/ 9 #acad1 or twelve ye>s aft] !      

,battle ( ! ,spurs4 ,x weigh$ twelve    
?\s&1 five hundr$ p\nds & 0 ! pride ( ! 
city1 b 0 de/roy$ by ord] ( ,*>les ,v :5
 he =c$ ! burgh]s abjectly to submit to 
8 despotism 9 #aedj4  ,9 ! l[] "p ( !   
t[] is ! secret room :]e f #adjb !      
burgh]s kept1 beh9d triple doors z at   
,bruges1 ! *>t]s & privileges ( ! city4 
,! fam\s dragon at ! tip ( ! spire 0 =  
c5turies said to h be5 br\ght f ! ,ori5t
 at ! "t ( ,baldw9 ( ,con/ant9ople1 b   
rec5t rese>*es 9 ! ar*ives ( ! city h   
%[n t x 0 made at ,gh5t 9 ! ye>         
#acgg-gh4 ,adjo9+ ! ,belfry is ! ,clo?  
,hall erect$ = ! mo/ important ( !      
city's f\r hundr$ guilds4 ,! upp] hall  
is n[ us$ z a ,bureau ( ,in=mation =    
,t\ri/s1 :ile ! l[] "o is a ,ra?skell]4 
,"h ! columns & vault$ ro( greatly      
resemble ! crypt ( ,gir>d ! ,devil's    
ca/le1 save t ! little tables & excell5t
 ,muni* & ,pils5 to be _h !re make x    
decid$ly m *e]ful4 ,! edifice 0 begun 9 
#adbe & f9i%$1 or1 at lea/1 ! "w 0      
/opp$1 9 #adda4 ,beh9d ! ,clo? ,hall1 b 

ne/l+ close aga9/ x1 is ! qua9t little  
entrance to ! communal prison1 :i* 0    
built 9 #agda :5 ! prison]s 7 conf9$ on 
! l[] floor ( ! ,clo? ,hall4 ,ov] ! door
 at ! top ( ! faade is ! celebrat$      
bas-relief repres5t+ ! leg5d ( !        
,mammelokk]4 ,! c>v+ really tells all   
!re is to ! /ory2 :i* is1 9 brief1 t1 on
 "o occasion1 :5 an old man 0 condemn$  
to die ( />vation1 8 daught]--:o j !n _h
 a baby :om %e 0 nurs+--secretly gave ! 
brea/ to h] ag$ p>5t1 ?us sav+ 8 life4  
,:ile ! ,belfry 0 be+ built by ! burgh]s
 ( ,gh5t1 ,france & ,engl& 7 drift+ into
 ! ,hundr$ ,ye>s' ,w>4 ,! ,c\nt (       
,fl&]s1 ,l\is de ,nev]s1 0 ard5tly loyal
 to ,france & utt]ly bl9d to ! int]e/s (
 ! great wooll5 manufactur+ communes ov]
 :i* he rul$ & to ^? ( 8 own dyna/y4 ,9 
#accf1 no d\bt at ! in/ance ( ! ,k+ (   
,france1 he ord]$ all ! ,engli% m]*ants 
9 ,fl&]s to be arre/$ & _! goods        
confiscat$4 ,! ,k+ ( ,engl&1 ,edw>d     
,,iii1 promptly retaliat$ by prohibit+ !
 exportation ( wool f ,engl& to ,fl&]s &

 ! sale ( ,flemi% wooll5s 9 8 ,k+dom4 ,9
 a few mon?s ! ,flemi% communes ( ,gh5t1
 ,bruges & ,ypres f\nd !mselves fac+    
utt] ru9 z a result ( ?is economic      
conflict4 ,! sp9n]s & weav]s 7 idle1 !  
m>kets des]t$1 actual />vation exi/$1 & 
_m ( ! guildsm5 7 =c$ to w&] (f into !  
c\ntryside to beg = food4  ,x 0 at ?is  
critical mom5t t ! great figure (       
,jacques ,van ,artevelde appe>s ^u !    
/age ( ,flemi% hi/ory4 ,son ( a ri* wool
 & clo? m]*ant :o _h be5 long prom95t   
among ! ,clauwa]ts1 or foes ( ,fr5*     
dom9ation1 ,jacques ,van ,artevelde 0 a 
man ( weal? & position :o by ance/ry &  
call+ 0 incl9$ to ! popul> r ?an !      
ari/ocratic side4 ,on ,decemb] #bh1     
#accg1 he h>angu$ ! m5 ( ,bruges 9      
behalf ( peace ) ,engl&1 9 spite ( !    
ob/9ate & fatu\s policy ( ! ,c\nt4 ,z a 
result ( 8 eloqu5ce1 abundantly en=c$ by
 ! ru9 & mis]y !n prevail+ on e side1 ! 
p decid$ unanim\sly to e/abli% a        
revolution>y gov]nm5t1 :i* 0 accompli%$ 
peacefully on ! ?ird ( ! foll[+ mon?4   

,van ,artevelde 0 recognis$ z ! =emo/ ( 
! five capta9s !n *os5 to adm9i/] !     
gov]nm5t ( ! city1 & 0 giv5 a l>g] gu>d 
?an 8 colleagues4 ,! helpless ,c\nt (   
,fl&]s1 unable to resi/1 0 oblig$ to    
ratify ! new policy ( ! burgh]s1 & by ! 
middle ( ! ye> #acch ! emb>go 0 =mally  
rais$ on bo? sides1 ! wooll5 indu/ry    
/>t$ up once m1 & ,fl&]s 0 decl>$ to be 
neutral z reg>d$ ! conte/ betwe5 its two
 p[]ful neighb\rs4 ,9 %ort1 ! wise      
policy ( ,van ,artevelde 0 completely   
triumphant & ! c\ntry aga9 plac$ on !   
road to r5ew$ prosp]ity4  ,"u !         
direction ( ! great tribune ! weav]s 7  
n[ ! dom9ant factor 9 ! gov]nm5t (      
,gh5t1 & soon ! influ5ce ( ,van         
,artevelde made itself felt 9 ,bruges1  
,ypres & all ! o!r ,flemi% communes1 :]e
 ! guild lead]s became likewise ! heads 
( ! magi/racy4 ,! ,c\nt /rove to reass]t
 8 p[]1 b ,van ,artevelde /orm$ ! ,ca/le
 & ! pr9ce 0 =c$ to accompany ! m5 (    
,gh5t to ! annual procession at ,t\rnai 
we>+ _! col\rs4 ,! ,:ite ,hoods1 z !    

w>riors ( ! popul> p>ty 7 call$1 de/roy$
 ! ca/les ( sev]al ( ! less] nobility :o
 d>$ to resi/ _! au?ority & ?r\gh\t all 
! l& ,van ,artevelde reign$ supreme4    
,edw>d ,,iii1 aft] va9ly endeav\r+ to w9
 ! ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s to 8 side by flatt]+  
matrimonial (f]s1 end$ by treat+        
directly ) ,van ,artevelde z if ) a     
sov]eign pr9ce4  ,x 0 ! g5ius ( ! great 
,gh5t capta9 t conceiv$ ! brilliant idea
 ( ov]com+ ! reluctance ( ! ,flemi%     
communes to take sides ) ,engl& aga9/ _!
 feudal suz]a91 ! ,k+ ( ,france1 by hav+
 ,edw>d claim ! cr[n ( ,france1 & x 0 9 
consequ5ce ( 8 argum5ts t ! ,engli%     
mon>* f9ally took ?is bold b adroit /ep4
 ,on ! #bf? ( ,janu>y1 #acdj1 ! communes
 =mally recognis$ ,edw>d z _! suz]a9 on 
! ,m>* du ,v5dr$i at ,gh5t--"o ( ! _m   
great ev5ts t h tak5 place on t hi/oric 
spot4 ,! ,k+ made ,gh5t 8 headqu>t]s1 & 
x 0 9 ! old ,ca/le ( ! ,c\nts t 8 ?ird  
son1 kn[n 9 ,engli% hi/ory z ,john (    
,gaunt 7,gh5t71 0 born4 ,9 ! same ye>   
occurr$ ! great ,battle ( ,sluys1 9 :i* 

,edw>d ,,iii l$ ! ,engli% %ips ( w> into
 ! h>b\r ( t t[n :]e ! ,fr5* ,k+ ,philip
 _h assembl$ a va/ fleet4 ,! defeat$    
,fr5*m5 leap$ ov]bo>d 9 hundr$s only to 
be sla9 by ! ,flem+s z !y swam a%ore4   
,no man d>$ tell ! ,k+ ( ,france ( ?is  
great disa/] until ! royal je/] broke ! 
news by exclaim+1 ,! ,engli% c[>ds6 ,oh1
 ! ,engli% c[>ds6 ,on ! ,k+'s inquir+   
:at he meant by ?is1 ! je/] repli$1 ,!y 
7 afraid to jump into ! sea z our brave 
,fr5*m5 did at ,sluys6  ,?is brilliant  
ye>1 h[ev]1 saw ! climax ( ! p[] ( ,van 
,artevelde4 ,already ! o!r ,flemi%      
communes 7 beg9n+ to grumble at 8 rule1 
outbreaks occurr+ at ,aud5a]de1         
,d5d]monde & ,ypres4 ,k+ ,edw>d began to
 besiege ,t\rnai ) ! aid ( ,van         
,artevelde1 b on ! ,fr5* ,k+ agree+ to a
 truce he return$ to ,engl&1 leav+ 8    
fai?ful ally to take c>e ( himself z be/
 he c\ld4 ,to make matt]s m difficult1  
he fail$ to pay ! subsidies he _h       
promis$1 & ! tribune 0 viol5tly accus$ (
 hav+ play$ ! p false4 ,mean:ile !      

guildsm5 began to dispute betwe5        
!mselves1 & on ,monday1 ,may #b1 #acde1 
9 spite ( ! entreaties ( ,van           
,artevelde1 ! full]s & weav]s engag$ 9 a
 bloody battle on ! ,m>* du ,v5dr$i 9   
:i* ! =m] ) _! ,doy51 or lead]1 7       
massacr$4 ,?is sad day 0 call$ ! ,kwade 
,ma5dag1 or ,bad ,monday4  ,e>ly 9 ,july
 ,van ,artevelde _h a la/ int]view )    
,edw>d at ,sluys4 ,on 8 return to ,gh5t 
a mob ( malcont5ts1 l$ by m5 9 ! pay (  
,c\nt ,l\is ( ,nev]s1 besieg$ ! great   
tribune 9 8 h\se1 cry+ t he _h betray$ !
 c\ntry4 ,aft] va9ly try+ to argue ) !m1
 he reluctantly p]mitt$ himself to be   
drawn away f ! w9d[ by 8 foll[]s1 :o    
s\ght to p]suade him to seek safety 9   
flight4 ,x 0 too late1 h[ev]1 z ! mob _h
 already bur/ into ! h\se & "o ( !m     
/ruck ,van ,artevelde dead on 8 own     
?re%old4 ,= ne>ly n9e ye>s he _h be5    
virtually a k+ 9 ,fl&]s1 8 policy br++  
unexampl$ prosp]ity to ! c\ntry & to 8  
native city4  ,al?\gh (t5 call$ a       
demagogue & a tyrant1 ,jacques ,van     

,artevelde ranks z "o ( ! =emo/ /atesm5 
( 8 "t4 ,he di$ ! victim ( a faction & (
 trea*]y r ?an a popul> revolt aga9/ 8  
policies1 = ! ,engli% alliance 0        
/eadfa/ly cont9u$ aft] 8 dea?4 ,to-day 8
 /atue /&s on ! ,m>* du ,v5dr$i1 :]e1 9 
#acdj1 he burn$ ! papal int]dict aga9/  
,fl&]s4 ,x repres5ts him 9 ! act (      
deliv]+ ! fam\s spee* by :i* he won !   
allegiance ( 8 fell[ citiz5s to !       
,engli% alliance4 ,c\nt ,l\is pr(it$    
little by 8 trea*]y1 = a little ov] a   
ye> lat]1 ,augu/ #bf1 #acdf1 he fell 9 !
 great battle ( ,crcy :]e ! ,engli%     
ar*]s1 fight+ by ! side ( _m ,flemi%    
guildsm51 gave ! dea? bl[ to m$ival     
*ivalry & utt]ly cru%$ ! p[] ( ,france4 
,! weav]s1 :o "u ,van ,artevelde _h     
become ! dom9ant p[] 9 all ( ! ,flemi%  
communes1 soon _h good reason to regret 
8 fall1 = ! new ,c\nt1 ,l\is (          
,maele--nam$ l mo/ ( ! ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s f
 ! place :]e he 0 born1 ! great ca/le ( 
,maele--0 able by lib]al promises & !   
re/oration ( anci5t *>t]s & privileges  

to w9 ! support ( mo/ ( ! cities4 ,at   
,gh5t ! but*]s1 fi% m]*ants1 & boatm5's 
guilds submitt$1 foll[$ by ! full]s &   
m9or indu/ries4 ,! weav]s1 al?\gh _!    
numb]s _h be5 greatly r$uc$ by ! plague1
 held out /ubbornly1 b 7 massacr$ on !  
,m>* du ,v5dr$i1 ,tuesday1 ,janu>y #ac1 
#acdi1 _! capta9 & _! ,doy51 ,gr>d      
,d5ys--! man :o _h sla9 ,van            
,artevelde--be+ flung into ! ,lys4 ,!   
victors call$ ?is bloody day ,de ,go$e  
,dis5da*1 or ,good ,tuesday1 & x c]ta9ly
 amply rev5g$ ! ,bad ,monday f\r ye>s   
be=e :5 ! weav]s 7 ! aggressors4 ,!     
memb]s ( ! un=tunate guild 7 n[ hunt$   
d[n l dogs ?r\gh\t all ,fl&]s1 great    
numb]s flee+ to ,engl& :]e !y e/abli%$ !
 weav+ indu/ry--,k+ ,edw>d wisely       
welcom+ ! exiles & giv+ !m e aid 9 8 p[]
 to settle 9 8 ,k+dom4 ,lat] !          
competition ( ^! fugitives & _!         
desc5dants gave ,fl&]s good cause to rue
 ! folly ( ! int]nal /rife t ?us drove  
away "s ( ! be/ workm5 9 ! c\ntry4  ,!  
num]ical sup]iority ( ?is guild1 h[ev]1 

& ! fact t its memb]s 7 necess>ily m    
skill$ ?an ! full]s1 l$ to its gradual  
recov]y1 & by #acei ! weav]s 7 aga9     
admitt$ to a %>e 9 ! gov]nm5t ( !       
communes & ! full]s 7 relegat$ to !     
inf]ior position to :i* _! small] numb]s
 & less skill$ "w entitl$ !m4 ,l\is (   
,maele made ,bruges virtually 8 capital1
 b dur+ ! great] "p ( 8 reign ( =ty ye>s
 0 able to cont9ue on fairly peaceful   
t]ms ) ! turbul5t city ( ,gh5t by means 
( a c>eful & detail$ adju/m5t ( ! ord] (
 prec$5ce betwe5 ! v>i\s guilds :i* 0   
devis$ ab\t ! ye> #aceb & cont9u$ 9     
effect = ne>ly two c5turies4 ,9 #acfi ! 
daught] ( ! ,c\nt m>ri$ ,philip ! ,bold1
 ,duke ( ,burgundy & bro!r ( ! ,k+ (    
,france--an ev5t full ( dire            
significance = ! guildsm5 z x l$ to _!  
hav+1 9 aft] ye>s1 ! p[]ful ,dukes (    
,burgundy z _! ov]-lords in/ead ( !     
comp>atively feeble ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s4 ,9 
#acgg ,c\nt ,l\is held a great t\rnam5t 
9 ! ,m>* du ,v5dr$i4 ,despite ! long    
conflict betwe5 ! guilds ! city 0 at ?is

 p]iod v prosp]\s4  ,! ,c\nt1 h[ev]1 :o 
0 always %ort ( money1 sold to ! citiz5s
 ( ,bruges ! "r to con/ruct a canal f _!
 port to ! ,riv] ,lys4 ,at ?is ,gh5t1   
head$ by ! ,boatm5's ,guild1 flew to    
arms & a civil w> broke out 9 #acgi1 !  
m5 ( ,gh5t fe>+ t !y might lose _!      
monopoly ( ! gra9 traffic4 ,aft] v>i\s  
successes & rev]ses ! ,c\nt besieg$ !   
city & _h v ne>ly r$uc$ x by />vation :5
 ,philip ,van ,artevelde1 son ( ! fam\s 
tribune1 came =w>d & 0 made             
,capta9-,g5]al ( ! city1 9 #achb4 ,! new
 lead]1 & a motley cr[d ( five ?\s&     
half-/>v$ foll[]s1 m>*$ on ,bruges1 :]e 
! ,c\nt1 at ! head ( a ho/ ( ov] =ty    
?\s&1 attack$ !m "u ! walls ( ! city4 ,!
 l>g] army1 h[ev]1 0 a m]e              
rabble--ov]-confid5t & half             
intoxicat$--& ,van ,artevelde won a     
complete victory4 ,! ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s 0   
compell$ to hide = ! night "u a heap (  
/raw 9 a poor woman's hovel1 & lat]     
escap$ to ,lille & s to ,france4 ,van   
,artevelde treat$ ! captur$ city )      

g5]osity & 0 soon capta9 ( all ,fl&]s4  
,8 next battle 0 ) ! ,k+ ( ,france1 b   
?is "t he 0 less =tunate1 & at          
,rosbecque1 ,novemb] #bg1 #achb1 !      
,flemi% ho/ 0 cut to pieces & its lead] 
sla94 ,l\is ( ,maele himself di$ two    
ye>s lat]1 leav+ ! reputation ( be+ !   
wor/ & weake/ ( ! l9e ( ,flemi% ,c\nts1 
z well z ! la/4 ,x 0 at 8 reque/ t !    
,fr5* _h invad$ ! c\ntry1 :i* !y swept )
 fire & sword aft] ! defeat ( ! ,flemi% 
guildsm51 b ! victory 0 ( no b5efit to !
 brok5-d[n old man :o no long] d>$ to %[
 himself 9 ,fl&]s & di$ at ,p>is 9      
pov]ty & neglect4  ,z an (fset to ^!    
rem>ks reg>d+ ! weakness ( ,l\is (      
,maele x is only fair to t wor?y to     
relate a little leg5d g5]ally attribut$ 
to 8 reign4 ,x is said t on a c]ta9     
occasion ! magi/rates ( ,gh5t--:i* 0 at 
! "t r5[n$ z ! mo/ opul5t city 9        
,europe--7 invit$ to a great fea/ giv5 9
 hon\r ( "s =eign k+4 ,^? 9 *>ge ( !    
arrangem5ts =got1 h[ev]1 to put cu%ions 
on ! *airs & ! m5 ( ,gh5t accord+ly ?rew

 _! ri*ly embroid]$ cloaks ^u !m1 &     
retir$ :5 ! fea/ 0 ov] )\t putt+ !m on  
aga94 ,:5 rem9d$ ( ?is ! ,*ief          
,magi/rate repli$1 ,! ,flem+s are n     
accu/om$ to c>ry _! cu%ions ) !m4 ,n    
only ! gr&ees b ! b\rgeois citiz5s at   
?is p]iod 7 said to we> purple & f9e    
l954 ,! ba?s1 /oov51 frequ5t$ by bo?    
sexes1 became ! sc5es ( great vice &    
disord] & "o anci5t *ronicl] reports an 
incr$ible numb] ( murd]s z occurr+ dur+ 
a s+le ye> at gam+ tables & dr9k+       
places4 ,all ?is w\ld seem to %[ t ,l\is
 ( ,maele 0 n s bad a sov]eign--= at    
lea/ ! c\ntry prosp]$ "u 8 rule--b 9    
reality he _h1 z we h se51 v little to d
 ei!r ) ! actual gov]nm5t or public     
policy dur+ 8 long reign4  ,no visitor  
to ,gh5t fails to take a look at ,de    
,dulle ,griete1 or ,mad ,m>g]y1 ,philip 
,van ,artevelde's big cannon t /&s 9 !  
,mannek5s ,a]t4 ,accord+ to ,froiss>t1  
,van ,artevelde took ) him to ! siege ( 
,aud5a]de a bomb>d :i* 0 fifty feet 9   
l5g?1 & %ot /ones ( imm5se weight4 ,:5  

!y fir$ (f ?is bomb>d x might be he>d   
five leagues (f 9 ! daytime1 & t5 at    
night4 ,! report ( x 0 s l\d1 t x seem$ 
z if all ! devils 9 hell _h brok5 loose4
 ,mad ,m>g]y seems to h %runk           
consid]ably s9ce ,froiss>t's "t1 = %e is
 n[ n9ete5 feet long & ?ree feet 9      
diamet] at ! m\?4 ,! gun 0 made ( wr\ght
 iron & weighs ?irty-f\r ?\s&1 "o hundr$
 & sixty-six p\nds1 & 0 capable ( ?r[+ a
 /one weigh+ sev5 hundr$ & eight p\nds4 
,illu/ration3 ,,de ,,dulle ,,griete1    
,,gh5t4  ,ano!r int]e/+ monum5t dat+ f !
 same p]iod 9 ! city's hi/ory z !       
,belfry is ! ,hospital ( ! ,biloque or  
,biloke4 ,"s ( ! build+s are ( mu* m    
rec5t con/ruction1 b ! ,go?ic *apel 0   
built e>ly 9 ! ?irte5? c5tury1 app>5tly 
ab\t #abbh1 ) a d\ble gable & imm5se    
timb] ro(4 ,! =m] ,refectory (f]s an    
example ( e>ly brick "w at "o ( its     
ends1 le beau pignon1 t is a joy to     
ar*itects1 & has (t5 be5 describ$ &     
illu/rat$ 9 ! te*nical books4 ,! timb]  
ro( ( ?is /ructure is also notewor?y4 ,x

 is n[ us$ z a hospital = old m54 ,?is  
edifice is a c5tury lat] ?an ! *apel1   
:ile "s ( ! o!r build+s date f !        
sev5te5? & eighte5? c5turies4  ,gh5t    
conta9s two ,bgu9ages1 a circum/ance t  
gives n a little tr\ble to visitors :o 9
 try+ to visit "o are ab\t always--at   
lea/ t 0 our exp]i5ce on two            
occasions--direct$ to ! o!r4 ,bo? are   
l>ge1 b "o is m notable = its antiquity 
& ! o!r = its size & ! p]fection ( its  
appo9tm5ts4 ,! fir/ ,bgu9age 9 ,gh5t 0  
f\nd$ by ,jeanne ( ,con/ant9ople 9 #abcc
 z a place ( refuge = wom5 disciples ( !
 *ur* :o 9 ^? evil days felt ! ne$ (    
protection1 b did n desire to ent] !    
conv5tual life4 ,little h\ses sprang up 
& ! in/itution prov$ s popul> t a second
 ,bgu9age 0 soon e/abli%$ :i* came to be
 call$ ! ,petit ,bgu9age4 ,protect$ by !
 successive ,c\nts1 & p>ticul>ly by !   
patronage ( ! ,c\ntesses ( ,fl&]s1 bo?  
in/itutions fl\ri%$ & exp&$ /eadily4 ,! 
pres5t ,petit ,bgu9age de ,notre ,dame  
dates l>gely f ! sev5te5? c5tury1 & !   

,*apel & /reets ( t9y h\ses inhabit$ by 
! ,bgu9es are mo/ picturesque4 ,x has   
accommodations = ?ree hundr$ si/]s4 ,!  
,gr& ,bgu9age de ,/e4 ,elisabe? 0       
confiscat$ dur+ ! ,fr5* ,revolution & ! 
prop]ty pres5t$ to ! alm%\ses ( ! city (
 ,gh5t4 ,! ,committee 9 *>ge ( !        
alm%\ses suff]$ ! ,bgu9es to rema9      
undi/urb$1 h[ev]1 until #ahgb :5 /ra9$  
relations result+ f ?is arrangem5t l$ to
 ! ,bgu9es giv+ up _! e/abli%m5t1 :i* 0 
mod]niz$ by ! au?orities & _m ( its     
int]e/+ features de/roy$4 ,! *ur*       
rema9s1 hav+ become a p>i% *ur*1 & ! rue
 des ,prb5dires reta9s its orig9al      
appe>ance4 ,mean:ile1 ! ,duke ( ,ar5b]g 
pur*as$ gr\nd = a new ,gr&e ,bgu9age at 
,mont ,/4 ,am&1 & "h a little city (    
small h\ses1 design$ 9 fifte5?-c5tury   
,flemi% /yle1 & a new *apel 7 erect$1 ! 
"w be+ complet$ 9 #ahgd4  ,illu/ration3 
,,workroom1 ,,petit ,b,,gu9age ,,de     
,,notre ,,dame1 ,,gh5t4  ,we sp5t a v   
*>m+ aft]noon visit+ ! ,gr&e ,bgu9age4  
,pass+ ?r\gh ! l(ty gateway we 7 greet$ 

by ! pleasant-fac$ ,bgu9e :o receives   
all visitors & :o direct$ u h[ to rea* !
 build+s we 7 p]mitt$ to see4 ,z at     
,bruges1 ! cells 7 n %[n to visitors4   
,altoge!r at ,/4 ,am& !re are f\rte5    
conv5ts & eighty h\ses1 ! =m]           
accommodat+ tw5ty or ?irty inmates & !  
latt] two or ?ree1 ) occasionally "s    
lady f ! out] _w :o is tak5 z a lodg]4  
,ea* little h\se is numb]$ & also has a 
"n1 usually t ( "s sa9t4 ,arriv+ at !   
conv5t we _h be5 p]mitt$ to visit we 7  
fir/ conduct$ d[n a long1 clean         
corridor1 pa9t$ a gl>+ :ite1 to a p>l\r 
or reception room1 ( :i* !re appe> to be
 sev]al4 ,!n1 aft] ! ,lady ,sup]ior _h  
be5 notifi$ ( our pres5ce & _h come to  
welcome u1 we 7 tak5 to ! reft]1 or     
d9+-room4 ,! inv5tor ( ! kit*5 cab9et   
c\ld h tak5 po9ts f ?is curi\s ap>tm5t4 
,along ! walls & betwe5 ! w9d[s are a   
doz5 or m cupbo>ds1 ( :i* "o belongs to 
ea* ,bgu9e4 ,"h %e keeps h] napk9s1     
di%es & cook+ ut5sils1 & ev5 h] bread & 
provisions4 ,a bo>d c be pull$ out ne> !

 middle1 :i* s]ves z a table4 ,^!       
cupbo>ds are s con/ruct$ t no ,bgu9e c  
see into t ( h] neighb\r1 & app>5tly !y 
take _! meals "o at a "t1 z "o 0 eat+ h]
 frugal repa/ :5 we ent]$1 & :5 we pass$
 ?r\gh ! room aga9 a little lat] h]     
little private refectory 0 clos$ & ano!r
 "o 0 seat$ at h] little %elf or table4 
,adjo9+ ?is que] d9+-room 0 a l>ge      
kit*51 ) an extremely big cook /ove1 on 
:i* a half-doz5 little pots 7 simm]+    
g5tly4 ,"o ,bgu9e1 we 7 told1 has ! duty
 ( att5d+ to ! kit*5 = ?ree weeks1 !n   
ano!r1 ea* tak+ turns4 ,! ,bgu9es prep>e
 _! own meals to suit !mselves1 ! "o 9  
*>ge ( ! kit*5 m]ely look+ aft] ! actual
 process ( cook+4  ,we next visit$ !    
workroom1 :]e a gr\p ( ,bgu9es 7 busily 
engag$ 9 mak+ lace4 ,! bright sun%9e    
/ream+ ?r\gh ! l>ge w9d[s on ! sil5t    
gr\p ( work]s1 ea* clad 9 h] sombre g>b 
( black & :ite1 made a pretty picture4  
,all seem$ to be c>e-free & cont5t$1    
?\gh ! expression on _! faces c\ld h>dly
 be describ$ z "o ( happ9ess4 ,z 9 all  

conv5tual in/itutions1 ! inmates are    
requir$ to g ?r\gh q a s]ies (          
devotional ex]cises f morn+ mass to !   
,b5$iction ,night ,pray]s4 ,! sc5e 9 !  
little *apel atta*$ to ea* conv5t1 or 9 
! l>ge *apel ( ! entire ,bgu9age1 :5 !  
si/]s are assembl$ = s]vice is a v      
picturesque "o & gives ! visitor an     
impression likely long to be rememb]$4  
,speak+ ( ! peculi> d9+ cu/oms ( !      
,bgu9es rem9ds me t 9 ,fl&]s ! judici\s 
%\ld n ov]look ! importance ( do+ ju/ice
 to ! cul9>y treats t are provid$ by ev5
 ! little hotels4 ,= ^? travell]s :o    
look ^u eat+ z "o ( ! disagreeable      
necessities ( exi/5ce1 to be %irk$ or   
evad$ z f> z possible1 &1 9 any ev5t1 to
 be hurri$ ?r\gh ) quickly le/ some?+ be
 ov]look$ t ! immortal ,mr4 ,ba$ek] said
 mu/ be se51 ?is is "o feature ( ,flemi%
 life t w make no appeal4 ,on ! o!r h&1 
= ^? :o are nei!r m5tally nor bodily    
dyspeptic2 :o agree ) ! ,fr5* aphorism t
 ! animals fe$1 :ile man eats2 & :o are 
/ill able to enjoy a good meal well     

plann$1 well cook$1 & well s]v$1 a trip 
?r\gh ,fl&]s w br+ a new pleasure e day4
 ,a peep into any ,flemi% kit*5 w       
conv9ce ! mo/ sceptical t "h1 at all    
ev5ts1 "o's /oma* is n likely to be     
=gott54 ,pots & kettles1 cass]oles &    
pans1 pit*]s & jugs1 l>ge & small1 hang 
ar\nd ! walls or re/ ^u long %elves--all
 ( brightly poli%$ copp] & ready =      
in/ant s]vice4  ,! great meal ( ! day 9 
all p>ts ( ,fl&]s is ! d9n]1 & x cuts ! 
day 9 two--com+ betwe5 noon & two       
o'clock & usually la/+ an h\r or m4 ,!  
ev5+ meal1 or supp]1 is mu* less        
important1 save 9 a few hotels cat]+    
l>gely to t\ri/s4 ,to get up a real     
,flemi% d9n]1 cook$ & s]v$ 9 ! be/ /yle 
( :i* ! ,flemi% cooks are capable1 !    
h\sewife fir/ asc]ta9s :5 ! local but*] 
has fre%-kill$ meat & plans accord+ly4  
,vegetables 9 ,fl&]s are always good1 9 
_! respective seasons1 b to get ! f9e/  
quality ( meats "o mu/ buy j aft] !     
but*] has made a kill+4 ,to ,am]icans1  
:o h be5 accu/om$ all _! lives to eat   

meat t has be5 kept on ice1 x almo/     
seems z ?\gh "o has nev] ta/$ a roa/ (  
beef or a %\ld] ( mutton be=e--s        
delici\sly sweet1 t5d] & juicy are !y :5
 cook$ & eat5 be=e ! ice has robb$ !m ( 
_! ri*ness & flav\r4  ,x 0 :ile we 7    
br[s+ ar\nd ,gh5t t ! ladies discov]$ a 
bit ( h&icraft t seems wor? m5tion+4 ,we
 subsequ5tly saw ! same ?+ at ,brussels 
& ,antw]p1 s t x appe>s to be di/9ctly a
 ,belgian indu/ry4 ,9 a l>ge w9d[ !y    
notic$ two wom5 engag$ 9 :at f ov] ! way
 might h be5 tak5 = lace-mak+4 ,mrs4    
,pr(essor hurri$ across at once to      
inve/igate & %e & ! ,madame sp5t half an
 h\r wat*+ ! op]ation4 ,ea* ( ! two wom5
 0 engag$ 9 repair+1 ! "o a pair (      
tr\s]s & ! o!r an ov]coat4 ,9 ea* case !
 repair consi/$ ( lit]ally weav+ a new  
segm5t ( clo? 9 place ( ! damag$        
portion4 ,fir/ cutt+ out all ( ! latt]  
!y fray$ out an edge ( ! goods at "s    
po9t :]e !re 0 suffici5t mat]ial turn$  
"u = _! purpose4 ,?is done !y took %ort 
/r&s ( ea* ( ! v>i\s col\r$ y>ns &1 )   

inf9ite pati5ce & skill1 wove !m toge!r 
9 an exact reproduction ( ! design ( !  
orig9al textile4 ,s clev]ly 0 ! "w done 
t :5 complet$ ! rep>ation c\ld n be     
detect$4 ,x is possible t repair+ ( ?is 
k9d is done 9 ,am]ica b none ( u _h ev] 
se5 or he>d ( x4 ,9 ,belgium x seem$ to 
be fairly common1 be+ /yl$ ,rep>ation   
invisible1 & ! price v>y+ f "o to ?ree  
or f\r francs = ea* hole repair$1       
accord+ to ! nature ( ! goods & !       
design4 ,we also saw rugs be+ repair$ 9 
! same mann]1 z well z ladies' dress    
goods ( e description4  ,x is "o ( ! mo/
 deplorable features ( ! w> t its mo/   
fe>ful de/ructiv5ess %\ld h be5 wreak$  
^u a little c\ntry :]e e small economy &
 pati5t utilisation ( trifles _h be5    
practis$ = c5turies4 ,all ,belgium is   
pre-em95tly a l& ( ?rift1 ( pa9/ak+     
husb&+ ( small res\rces1 & to begg> half
 ! population ( su* a c\ntry means a    
calamity to ea* family gr\p & individual
 f> m poignant ?an w\ld be ! case :]e   
frugality 0 less deeply +ra9$ z a       

national *>act]i/ic4     ,,*apt] ,,xi   
,,philip ,,! ,,good ,,& ,,! ,,van       
,,eycks   ,z ! sunset is (t5 ! mo/      
beautiful h\r ( ! day1 s ! spl5d\r ( !  
old ,flemi% communes rea*$ its z5i? at !
 mom5t :5 _m ( !m 7 ab\t to s9k into _! 
long sleep4 ,?is 0 ! p]iod ( ,burgundian
 rule4 ,^u ! dea? ( ,l\is ( ,maele !    
,c\nty ( ,fl&]s ceas$ to be a sep>ate   
sov]eignty1 z x _h be5 s9ce ,baldw9 ( ! 
,iron ,arm1 = ! husb& ( ,m>g>et1 ! old  
,c\nt's daught]1 0 ,duke ( ,burgundy &  
bro!r ( ! ,k+ ( ,france--a =eign pr9ce  
^: int]e/s 9 ,france f> out-weigh$ 9 8  
m9d 8 int]e/s 9 ,fl&]s4 ,! new rul]1    
,philip ! ,bold1 0 ackn[l$g$ z ,c\nt (  
,fl&]s 9 #achd1 b 0 only able to ent]   
,aud5a]de by /ratagem aft] a siege1 & 0 
defi$ op5ly by ! /urdy burgh]s ( ,gh5t4 
,! foll[+ ye>1 h[ev]1 ,philip effect$ a 
family union by :i* he virtually        
controll$ ! two important ,/ates (      
,brabant & ,ha9aut4 ,8 elde/ son 0 m>ri$
 to ,m>g>et1 daught] ( ! ,reg5t (       
,ha9aut1 :ile ! latt]'s son m>ri$       

,philip's daught]4 ,^! m>riages 7       
celebrat$ at ,cambrai1 9 ,april1 #ache1 
& at ! same "t ! ,du*ess ( ,brabant     
recognis$ ,philip's second son z heir to
 ! ,du*y4 ,brabant at t "t 0 less ri* & 
p[]ful ?an ,fl&]s1 b its *ief cities1   
,brussels & ,l\va91 7 gr[+ rapidly4     
,ha9aut1 on ! o!r h&1 _h be5 t]m$ by "o 
( its lead]s a poor c\ntry ( pr\d       
m5--its *ief cities1 ,mons &            
,val5ci5nes1 be+ places ( ?ird-rate     
importance1 & its pres5t va/ m9]al weal?
 !n undream$ (4 ,! m>riages ( ,cambrai  
are wor? rememb]+1 h[ev]1 z expla9+ !   
rapidity ) :i* ! ,h\se ( ,burgundy      
ext5d$ its sway ov] ne>ly all ( :at is  
n[ ,belgium4  ,gh5t /ill resi/$ its new 
,c\nt1 b an army ( "o hundr$ ?\s& ,fr5* 
& ,burgundians--ga!r$ prim>ily to invade
 ,engl&--de/roy$ ! seaport ( ,damme1 :i*
 _h be5 rebuilt s9ce its previ\s        
de/ruction by ! ,fr5*1 & plund]$ ! ,f\r 
,trades1 z ! f]tile region !reab\t 0    
call$4 ,gh5t1 h[ev]1 _h suff]$ en\gh to 
make x sue = peace & ackn[l$ge ,philip's

 sov]eignty4 ,! invasion ( ,engl&       
project came to no?+--z h s _m o!rs be=e
 & s9ce--b x _h at lea/ enabl$ ,philip  
to e/abli% 8 p[] 9 ,fl&]s4  ,on         
,philip's dea? 9 #adjd1 he 0 succe$$ by 
8 son1 ,john ! ,fe>less 7z ! old        
*ronicl]s call him74 ,! life ( ?is pr9ce
 belongs to ! hi/ory ( ,france r ?an    
,fl&]s1 z he _h little use = 8 ,flemi%  
t[ns except to extort money f _!        
burgh]s--:o grant$ him su* sums z he    
requir$ on 8 r5ew+ ackn[l$gm5t ( _!     
lib]ties & privileges4 ,9 #adjg ,john   
caus$ ! murd] ( 8 great rival 9 !       
gov]nm5t ( ,france1 ! ,duke ( ,orleans4 
,!n came ! battle ( ,ag9c\rt1 :]e ! p[] 
( ,france 0 ru9$ by ,h5ry ! ,fif?1 & 9  
#adai ! son ( ! ,duke ( ,orleans av5g$ !
 murd] ( 8 fa!r twelve ye>s previ\sly by
 murd]+ ,john ! ,fe>less at ,mont]eau4  
,! son ( ,john ! ,fe>less 0 ,philip1    
call$ by ! *ronicl]s ! ,good4 ,a bett]  
t]m w\ld h be5 ! ,magnific5t1 = goodness
 0 h>dly 8 *ief *>act]i/ic4 ,! murd] ( 8
 fa!r caus$ ,philip to take ! side (    

,engl& 9 ! long conflict betwe5 t c\ntry
 & ,france t 0 /ill rag+--a policy t    
pleas$ 8 ,flemi% communes1 :i* dep5d$ = 
_! prosp]ity on ! wool trade4 ,mean:ile 
,philip took advantage ( ! matrimonial  
difficulties ( ,jacquel9e ( ,bav>ia1    
,c\ntess ( ,ha9aut & ,holl&1 to compel t
 beautiful b un=tunate pr9cess to       
abdicate 9 8 fav\r4 ,! dungeon 9 !      
,ca/le ( ! ,c\nts at ,gh5t1 :]e ! fair  
,jacquel9e 0 = a "t conf9$1 has already 
be5 m5tion$4 ,he also succe$$ 9 mak+    
himself ,duke ( ,brabant1 ?us unit+ 9 8 
own p]son ! gov]nm5t ( ^! ri* prov9ces )
 t ( ,fl&]s & ,burgundy & 8 o!r         
possessions 9 ,france4  ,9 #adcj ,philip
 m>ri$ ! ,pr9cess ,isabel ( ,portugal1 a
 great-gr&daught] ( ,john1 ,duke (      
,lanca/]4 ,?is m>riage cem5t$ ! ,engli% 
alliance1 & ! ,engli% made ,philip      
,reg5t ( ,france1 ov] :i* !y /ill claim$
 sov]eignty4 ,x 0 ,philip :o captur$ &  
indirectly caus$ ! execution ( ,jeanne  
d',arc at ! d>ke/ p]iod ( ,fr5* hi/ory4 
,! n[ all-p[]ful ,duke ( ,burgundy      

signaliz$ 8 m>riage by e/abli%+ at      
,bruges ! fam\s ,ord] ( ! ,gold5        
,fleece4 ,?is consi/$ ( himself1 z f\nd]
 & sov]eign pr9ce1 & tw5ty-f\r          
knights--naturally ! highe/ 9 ! l&--& 9 
r5[n & lu/re ! new ord] quickly took    
rank z ! v p9nacle ( m$ival *ivalry4    
,memb]%ip 0 an hon\r ?an :i* !re 0 none 
high]1 :ile memb]s also enjoy$ a p]sonal
 security aga9/ ! tyranny ( pr9ces 9 be+
 am5able only to _! comrades ( ! ord]4  
,! head ( su* an in/itution naturally   
ex]t$ p[]s equal1 &1 9 "s respects1     
sup]ior1 to ^? ( any cr[n$ mon>*4 ,!    
ftes ) :i* ,philip celebrat$ !          
e/abli%m5t ( ! ord] 7 )\t prec$5t 9 !   
hi/ory ( ,europe = magnific5ce1 & ! old 
city ( ,bruges 0 = days ?rong$ ) !      
brave/ knights & ! faire/ ladies to be  
f\nd 9 ! ,duke's widespread dom9ions4   
,up to ?is date ! policy ( ,philip _h   
co9cid$ ) ! int]e/s ( 8 great communes 9
 ,fl&]s & 8 popul>ity ?r\gh\t ! c\nty 0 
unb\nd$4 ,n only did fri5d%ip ) ,engl&  
protect & /imulate trade betwe5 ! two   

c\ntries1 b ! mis]y & ru9 ( ,france also
 contribut$ to ext5d ! comm]ce ( ! great
 t[ns j ov] ! fronti] ^: trade &        
indu/ries 7 unmole/$4 ,9 #adce ,philip  
conclud$ ! treaty ( ,arras ) ,*>les     
,,vii1 ,k+ ( ,france1 by :i*1 = ! sake (
 peace1 ! ,fr5* ,k+ c$$ to him a numb] (
 c\nties 9 ,france & made him1 dur+ 8   
lifetime at lea/1 an indep5d5t pr9ce ow+
 no homage to ! ,fr5* ,cr[n4 ,?is treaty
 naturally enrag$ ! ,engli%1 :o at once 
decl>$ w> on ,burgundy1 de/roy+ _m      
,burgundian vessels & raid+ its coa/    
t[ns4 ,9 rev5ge ,duke ,philip m>*$ on   
,calais ) an army ( ?irty ?\s& ,flem+s  
:om he induc$ to jo9 9 ! w> aga9/ _!    
anci5t ally *iefly ?r\gh _! confid5ce 9 
8 good int5tions & aga9/ _! own bett]   
judgm5t4 ,! siege prov$ to be a long "o1
 & ! ,flem+s becom+ discont5t$ f9ally   
set fire to _! camp & cry+1 ,g1 g1 wy   
zyn all v]m&56 7,g1 g1 we are all       
betray$67 m>*$ back to ,fl&]s1 leav+ _! 
,duke rag+ at 8 discomfiture4  ,?is     
fiasco det]m9$ ,philip to adopt a new   

policy t[>d ! communes & compel !m to   
obey 8 ord]s4 ,on ,may #bb1 #adcg1 he   
camp$ outside ( ! city ( ,bruges ) a    
consid]able =ce ( knights & ,pic>d      
footm51 in=m+ ! burgh]s t he 0 on 8 way 
to ,holl&4 ,! next day1 tell+ 8 m5 ,t is
 ! ,holl& we h come to conqu]6 z he     
po9t$ to ! city1 ,philip l$ 8 =ces to ! 
m>ket-place4 ,! tocs9 9 ! old belfry    
in/antly s\nd$ ! al>m1 & angry guildsm5 
& burgh]s came p\r+ d[n ! n>r[ /reets 9 
?\s&s4 ,philip's small =ce1 tak5 at a   
disadvantage1 0 =c$ to retreat to "o ( !
 gates4 ,x 0 %ut1 its heavy bolts       
securely drawn4 ,already "s ( ! ,fr5*   
=ce _h be5 kill$1 & 9 a few mom5ts !    
,duke himself w\ld h p]i%$ b =          
,burgoma/] ,van de ,walle1 :o br\ght a  
smi? & broke ! lock4 ,! ,duke escap$ )  
mo/ ( 8 foll[]s1 b _m :o 7 caught 9 !   
re> lo/ _! lives4 ,?is 0 ! ,bruges      
,vesp]s--to di/+ui% x f ,bruges ,mat91 !
 ye> ( ! ,battle ( ! ,spurs4  ,philip n[
 set ab\t humbl+ ! pr\d city 9 grim     
e>ne/1 cutt+ (f ! comm]ce ^u :i* its    

prosp]ity dep5d$1 & ev5 its food        
supplies4 ,to add to ! horrors ( ! siege
 ! plague broke out )9 ! city1 :ile     
leprosy 0 also preval5t4 ,no less ?an   
tw5ty-f\r ?\s& di$ ( pe/il5ce & fam9e   
be=e ! brave burgh]s at la/ gave 94     
,philip's t]ms 7 h>d4 ,! city (ficials 7
 requir$ to meet him b>ehead$ & b>efoot$
 ! next "t he deign$ to visit ! defeat$ 
commune1 & on _! knees give him ! keys (
 ! city4 ,a heavy f9e 0 impos$ & =ty-two
 lead+ burgh]s 7 exclud$ f amne/y &     
behead$--includ+ ,van de ,walle1 :o _h  
sav$ 8 life at ! ,b\v]ie gate4 ,?is 0 ! 
,great ,humiliation1 z x is sometimes   
call$1 b--f9d+ t cont9u$ ho/ility to !  
*ief trad+ c5tre 9 8 dom9ions 0 driv+   
=eign trad]s away--! ,duke n[ took      
,bruges aga9 into 8 fav\r & nev] aga9   
mole/$ x dur+ 8 long reign4  ,! pr\d    
city ( ,gh5t 0 ! next to feel ! weight (
 ! p[]ful ,duke's displeasure4 ,rebell+ 
9 #addh aga9/ ! imposition ( a tax on   
salt1 call$ ! gabelle1 ! city defi$ !   
,duke's au?ority = five ye>s4 ,mean:ile 

,philip gradually cut (f its supplies1 z
 he _h done ) ,bruges4 ,gh5t 0 m        
popul\s1 h[ev]1 & its burgh] armies took
 ! field & c>ri$ op5 w> z f> z          
,aud5a]de1 :i* !y besieg$4 ,sev]al small
 battles 7 f\ght1 ! advantage re/+ ma9ly
 ) ! ,duke1 until on ,july #bc1 #adec1 !
 decisive conflict took place4 ,!       
,duke's =ces 7 encamp$ at ,gavre1 a few 
miles f ! city4 ,spies )9 ! gates told !
 burgh]s t x w\ld be easy to surprise ! 
camp & de/roy ,philip's army4 ,! tocs9  
!re=e 0 s\nd$ & ! ho/s ( guildsm5 &     
burgh]s m>*$ out to attack ! enemy4 ,!  
,duke's =ces1 aw>e ( ! mann] 9 :i* !    
,flem+s 7 to be betray$1 7 plac$ :]e !  
op5 gr\nd fav\r$ ! ,burgundian horsem54 
,9 spite ( ?is advantage1 ! conte/ 0 a  
/ubborn "o1 bo? ! ,duke & 8 son ,*>les  
n>r[ly escap+ dea? on "o occasion4 ,at  
la/ ! ,flem+s began to give way1 & !    
battle became a slaught]1 m ?an tw5ty   
?\s& ( ! guildsm5 be+ sla9 on ! field1  
:ile all prison]s 7 hang$4 ,?is /ruggle 
0 call$ ! r$ sea ( ,gavre4 ,z ! m5 (    

,gh5t 7 flee+ t[>d _! city ,philip s\ght
 to pursue !m by ! %orte/ way & int]cept
 _! flight4 ,he accord+ly call$ = a     
guide4 ,a peasant ( ! neighb\rhood      
volunte]$1 &1 aft] lead+ ! ,burgundian  
army across fields & by-pa?s = sev]al   
h\rs1 conduct$ ! victors--n to ! gates (
 ,gh5t1 b back to _! own camp aga96 ,?is
 nameless h]o 0 incont95tly hang$ to !  
ne>e/ tree1 b he no d\bt sav$ ! city f  
pillage & rap9e t night4  ,philip by ?is
 victory completely cru%$ ! _s ( !      
communes1 = none d>$ resi/ :5 ,gh5t !   
all-p[]ful _h fail$4 ,he seems to h _h  
at lea/ a fleet+ realisation1 h[ev]1 t  
victories ( ?is sort 7 n matt]s =       
unmitigat$ satisfaction4 ,! day aft] !  
battle ! wom5 ( ,gh5t 7 se>*+ ! gha/ly  
heaps ( dead = ! bodies ( _! husb&s1 _! 
bro!rs & _! lov]s :5 ,philip            
exclaim$--possibly t\*$ by ! sad        
sight--,i d n "k :o is ! ga9] by ?is    
victory4 ,z = me1 see :at ,i h lo/--= ^!
 7 my subjects6  ,! privileges ( ,gh5t 7
 some:at curtail$1 & ! de>ly lov$ guild 

bann]s c>ri$ away by ! conqu]or1 b      
,philip1 on ! :ole1 0 v mod]ate4 ,!     
obnoxi\s gabelle1 ! cause ( ! w>1 0     
remov$1 & all citiz5s gu>ante$ _!       
individual lib]ties4 ,! foll[+ ye>1     
,philip1 possibly to celebrate 8 n[     
undisput$ supremacy1 gave a s]ies ( ftes
 at ,lille t surpass$ ev5 ^? held on !  
occasion ( 8 m>riage at ! f\ndation ( ! 
,ord] ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece4 ,^u "o d9+    
table /ood a ca!dral1 ) a *oir s++ )92  
ano!r held a huge pie1 inside ( :i* an  
or*e/ra ( tw5ty-eight musicians play$2 a
 ?ird conta9$ a pantomime repres5t+     
,jason 9 se>* ( ! gold5 fleece4 ,^! ftes
 & t\rnam5ts la/$ = days1 & 7 ! wond] ( 
,europe4  ,dur+ ! rema9d] ( 8 reign (   
fifty ye>s ,philip nev] aga9 _h occasion
 to make w> on 8 ,flemi% subjects1 &    
:ile he s]i\sly curtail$ ! p[] &        
importance ( ! communes1 8 rule 01 on ! 
:ole1 a p]iod ( great prosp]ity =       
,fl&]s4 ,bo? m]*ants & artisans 7 wax+  
ri*1 :ile ! *ief cities 7 be+ beautifi$ 
on e h&4 ,x 0 "u ,philip ! ,good t !    

ca!dral at ,antw]p 0 begun1 & ! t[n     
halls ( ,mons1 ,l\va9 & ,brussels       
erect$4 ,x 0 also dur+ 8 reign t        
,william ,caxton le>n$ ! art ( pr9t+ at 
! h\se ( ,col>d ,manson at ,bruges1 b ! 
prejudice ( ! burgh]s l$ to 8 bani%m5t z
 a =eign]--?us depriv+ ,bruges ( ! lu/re
 ( 8 a*ievem5ts4 ,! greate/ ev5t (      
,philip's reign1 h[ev]1 0 "o ( :i* !    
glory is %>$ by bo? ,bruges & ,gh5t--!  
e/abli%m5t 9 ,fl&]s ( ! s*ool ( pa9t]s 9
 oils ^: ma/]pieces loom s l>ge 9 !     
hi/ory ( art4  ,l mo/ m5 ^: comm&+      
p]sonality dom9ates ! age 9 :i* !y live1
 ,philip ! ,good 0 _m sid$4 ,! ,pr(essor
 admires him because he 01 9 8 judgm5t1 
"o ( ! greate/ con/ructive /atesm5 ( !  
,middle ,ages--aim+ /eadily ?r\gh\t 8   
long reign to weld toge!r1 by fair means
 or f\l1 a compact ,burgundian nation4  
,on ! o!r h&1 ,i look ^u him z a foe r  
?an a fri5d ( true progress1 because he 
cru%$ ! self-gov]n+ communes & guilds1 !
 bulw>ks ( p]sonal lib]ty 9 feudal      
,europe4 ,mrs4 ,pr(essor c>es no?+ =    

ei!r ( ^! aspects ( 8 c>e]1 b looks ^u  
him z great = all "t because he 0 an    
ard5t fri5d & patron ( ! f9e arts4  ,9  
?is %e is und\bt$ly "r1 = no great]     
glory belongs to any ( ! long l9e (     
pr9ces :o rul$ ov] ,fl&]s ?an t :i* is  
associat$ ) 8 reign--! bir? at ,bruges (
 ! art ( pa9t+ ) oils & ( ! wond]ful    
s*ool ( pa9t+ repres5t$ by ! e>ly       
,flemi% ma/]s4 ,9 8 ,hi/ory ( ,flemi%   
,pa9t+ ,pr(4 ,a4 ,j4 ,waut]s rec\nts !  
names & "s fa9t traces ( ! "w ( a few   
,flemi% pa9t]s :o liv$ prior to ! p]iod 
( ,philip ! ,good4 ,at ,gh5t !re are two
 int]e/+ frescoes dat+ f ab\t ! end ( ! 
?irte5? c5tury4 ,at t city 9 #accg !    
fir/ guild ( sculptors 0 organis$1 "u ! 
patronage ( ,/4 ,luke1 & simil>         
corporations 7 in/itut$ at ,t\rnai 9    
#acda1 9 ,bruges 9 #acea1 at ,l\va9 by  
#acfj & ,antw]p by #achb4 ,to ?is guild 
f ! v e>lie/ p]iod ! pa9t]s belong$1    
sometimes ! goldsmi?s & goldbeat]s be+  
also associat$ ) !m4 ,9 ! same way !    
illum9ators ( ,bruges & ,gh5t1 & !      

tape/ry work]s ( ,arras1 ,t\rnai1       
,val5ci5nes & ,brussels 7 organis$ into 
guilds1 & ^! associations ( m5 ^: "w 0 9
 a high degree arti/ic soon result$ 9 ! 
trans=mation ( ! artisan into ! arti/4  
,philip ! ,good 0 n ! fir/ ( 8 l9e to   
give enc\ragem5t to art & arti/s4 ,"o   
,jehan de ,hasselt 0 c\rt pa9t] to ,c\nt
 ,l\is ( ,maele1 :ile at ! same p]iod ! 
bett] kn[n ,jehan de ,bruges 0 pe9tre et
 v>let de *ambre = ! ,k+ ( ,france4 ,by 
! end ( ! f\rte5? c5tury n only ! great 
,dukes ( ,burgundy & ! ,k+s ( ,france b 
_m m9or pr9ces _h _! *os5 pa9t]s1       
imag]s1 illum9ators & tape/ry work]s4   
,philip ! ,bold1 ! fir/ ( ! ,dukes (    
,burgundy to rule ov] ,fl&]s1 reta9$ 8  
fa!r-9-law's pa9t]1 ,jehan de ,hasselt1 
on 8 pay-roll = "s "t1 & lat] employ$ a 
resid5t ( ,ypres1 ,mel*ior ,bro$]lam1 ^:
 ma/]piece 0 an alt>-piece = ! ,c>?usian
 mona/]y at ,dijon f\nd$ by 8 patron4   
,"p ( ?is has be5 pres]v$ & is n[ 9 !   
museum ( ,dijon4 ,x is ( int]e/ z ! fir/
 great pa9t+ ( ! e>ly ,flemi% s*ool &   

repres5ts ! ,annunciation & ,visitation1
 ! ,pres5tation 9 ! ,temple1 & ! ,flight
 into ,egypt4 ,john ! ,fe>less1 ! next  
,duke ( ,burgundy1 likewise _h 8 (ficial
 pa9t]1 b x 0 n until ! reign ( ,philip 
! ,good t any ( ^! ,ducal arti/s1 ) !   
exception ( ,bro$]lam1 a*iev$ m ?an     
m$iocre results4  ,! reason = ?is may h 
be5 ! m$ium ) :i* all pa9t]s 9 ^? days 7
 accu/om$ to "w4 ,?is 0 call$ temp]a1 ! 
col\rs be+ mix$ ) wat]1 ! :ite ( an egg 
or "s o!r glut9\s sub/ance1 !n dri$ 9 ! 
sun & v>ni%$ ov]4 ,! col\rs1 h[ev]1 soon
 became dull & pale--(t5 fad+ away      
altoge!r1 especially 9 c\rse (          
re/oration--& ! process ( dry+ 0 sl[ &  
unsatisfactory4 ,to ,fl&]s belongs !    
hon\r ( ! great discov]y ( ! art ( pa9t+
 ) oils t revolutionis$ ?is bran* ( !   
f9e arts & made ! ma/]-works ( ! arti/s 
( ! bru% imp]i%able = all "t4  ,?is     
epo*-mak+ discov]y1 :i* is ju/ly look$  
^u z ! bir? ( mod]n pa9t+1 0 made by !  
two bro!rs ,van ,eyck ab\t ! ye> #adaj4 
,! e>ly acc\nts attribute ! inv5tion    

:olly to ,jean1 ! y\ng] ( ! two bro!rs1 
relat+ t on a c]ta9 occasion he _h plac$
 a pa9t+ on wood1 :i* _h co/ him mu* "t 
& lab\r1 9 ! sun to dry :5 ! heat ( !   
sun caus$ x to crack4 ,see+ 8 "w ?us    
ru9$ at a bl[ ,jean s\ght to f9d "s     
sub/ance t w\ld obviate ! necessity (   
dry+ 8 pa9t+s 9 ! sun &1 aft] _m        
exp]im5ts1 discov]$ t l9se$ oil & nut   
oil 7 by f> ! mo/ rapid 9 dry+4 ,he     
fur!r f\nd t ! col\rs mix$ bett] 9 oil  
?an ) ! :ite ( an egg or glue4 ,!y also 
_h m body1 a f> ri*] lu/re1 7 imp]meable
 to wat] &--:at 0 be/ ( all--dri$ j z   
well 9 ! %ade z 9 ! sun4 ,lat] s*ol>%ip 
is n incl9$ to give ! entire cr$it = ?is
 discov]y to ,jean alone1 h[ev]1 & 8    
eld] bro!r ,hub]t is look$ ^u by "s z ! 
"o to :om ! glory is due4 ,probably x 0 
! jo9t result ( innum]able exp]im5ts    
made by bo?1 ea* pr(it+ by ! mi/akes &  
successes ( ! o!r--j z 0 ! case ) !     
,wright bro!rs 9 p]fect+ ! greate/      
inv5tion ( our own times4 ,!re 71 (     
c\rse1 o!r pione]s :o contribut$ to !   

great discov]y4  ,! bro!rs 7 born at    
,maeseyck 7,eyck-sur-,meuse7 ne>        
,mae/ri*t1 & took ! "n ( ! village z _! 
own 9 a way t 0 !n v common4 ,lit]ally  
!y call$ !mselves ,hub]t & ,jean (      
,eyck4 ,!y fir/ obta9$ s]vice "u !      
pr9ce-bi%op ( ,lige1 & 7 illum9ators (  
manuscripts & /atues z well z pa9t]s4 ,!
 increas+ weal? & luxury ( ,fl&]s "u !  
,dukes ( ,burgundy drew ! two bro!rs to 
t c\ntry & !y appe> to h be5 9 ! employ 
( ! ,c\nt ( ,*>olais1 aft]w>ds ! ,duke  
,philip ! ,good1 at ab\t ! date assign$ 
by ! e>ly hi/orians z t :5 ! art ( pa9t+
 ) oils 0 discov]$4 ,! ,c\nt 0 resid+ at
 t "t 9 ! ,*teau des ,comtes at ,gh5t ) 
8 "y wife ,mi*elle1 si/] ( ! ,duke (    
,orleans4 ,9 #adai1 :5 ! news ( ! murd] 
( ,john ! ,fe>less1 ,duke ( ,burgundy1  
by ! ,duke ( ,orleans on ! bridge (     
,mont]eau arriv$ at ,gh5t1 ,philip ru%$ 
into 8 wife's room cry+1 ,mi*elle1      
,mi*elle6 ,y\r bro!r has kill$ my fa!r6 
,! %ock ( ?is t]rible intellig5ce1 & !  
subsequ5t suspicion ( h] husb& t %e knew

 ( ! plot1 caus$ ! poor little ,fr5*    
pr9cess to p9e away & die two ye>s lat]4
 ,z a tribute to h] memory ! guild ( ,/4
 ,luke 0 ask$ by ! ,duke to grant !     
fre$om ( ! guild to h] fav\rite pa9t]s1 
! two ,van ,eycks1 :i* 0 done4  ,jean1  
h[ev]1 did n rema9 at ,gh5t1 b took     
s]vice = a "t "u ,john ( ,bav>ia1 ^:    
capital 0 at ,! ,hague4 ,9 #adbe he     
became pa9t] & v>let de *ambre ( ,philip
 ! ,good1 a position he reta9$ until 8  
dea?4 ,= a "t he seems to h travell$    
ab\t ) 8 ducal ma/]1 b he ev5tually     
settl$ at ,bruges1 :]e mo/ ( 8 be/ "w 0 
done4 ,hub]t1 mean:ile1 rema9$ at ,gh5t1
 pa9t+ = ! ri* burgh]s ( t prosp]\s     
city4 ,"h he pres5tly receiv$ an ord] f 
,jodocus ,vydts = an alt>-piece = a     
*apel he _h f\nd$ 9 ! ,ca!dral ( ,/4    
,bavon 9 8 native city ( ,gh5t4 ,hub]t  
began "w imm$iately1 plann$ ! great "w &
 liv$ to p>tially complete x :5 ov]tak5 
by dea? 9 #adbf4 ,hub]t 0 recognis$ z a 
great pa9t] 9 8 day1 ! magi/rates (     
,gh5t on "o occasion go+ 9 /ate to 8    

/udio to inspect a picture he 0         
pa9t+--:i* 0 no d\bt ! alt>-piece = ,/4 
,bavon4 ,he 01 h[ev]1 :olly =gott5 by   
e>ly hi/orians ( art 9 ,fl&]s1 & x is   
only rec5tly t he has be5 giv5 8 prop]  
place z "o ( ! fir/ ( ! great ma/]s ( ! 
,flemi% s*ool4  ,! subject *os5 by      
,hub]t = ! propos$ alt>-piece 0 !       
,adoration ( ! ,lamb1 & ! arti/1 :ile   
true to ! conv5tions ( ! age 9 :i* he   
liv$1 a*iev$ a "w t is /ill full (      
int]e/ & *>m4 ,l ,%akespe>e's plays ?is1
 ! fir/ great ma/]piece ( ! ,flemi%     
s*ool1 belongs n to an age b to all "t4 
,9 its entirety ! "w consi/s ( tw5ty    
panels & comprises m ?an ?ree hundr$    
sep>ate figures4 ,h[ f> x _h be5        
complet$ at ,hub]t's dea? !re is no way 
to tell1 al?\gh x is cu/om>y to         
attribute to him ! ar*itectural frame1 !
 c5tral panel %[+ ! lamb1 & ! l>ge upp] 
panels4 ,o!r critics believe t ,jean    
practically pa9t$ ! :ole picture :5 he 0
 commission$ by ! donor to complete x4  
,! books on ,flemi% art devote _m pages 

to an analytical description ( ?is      
picture1#a :i* 0 f9ally complet$ by     
,jean 9 #adcb4 ,! ,duke ,philip1 8      
patron1 & ! magi/rates ( ,bruges visit$ 
8 /udio 9 /ate to inspect ! f9i%$       
picture1 :i* 0 aft]w>ds publicly        
exhibit$ at ,gh5t4 ,:5 x is consid]$ t  
?is is ! v fir/ pa9t+ 9 oil t has come  
d[n to u x is 9 e respect a mo/ m>vell\s
 p]=mance4 ,! ?ree l>ge c5tral panels 9 
! upp] portion are especially noble &   
impressive1 t ( ,god ! ,fa!r1 9 ! c5tre1
 be+ f9ely expressive ( maje/y & repose4
 ,9 ! panel to ! left ( ! ,virg9 ,m>y is
 a gr\p ( y\?ful angels s++1 :o are s   
skilfully pa9t$ t "o c readily tell f   
look+ at !m :i* is s++ ! dom9ant1 :i* ! 
c\nt]-t5or1 & :i* ! t5or & ! bass1      
accord+ to an e>ly critic4 ,we 7 told by
 a ,belgian cur ) :om we talk$ ab\t ?is 
wond]ful picture %ortly be=e our visit  
to ,gh5t t ! "w is s f9e 9 its details t
 9 ! case ( ! figures 9 ! =egr\nd :o are
 hold+ op5 9 _! h&s copies ( !          
,scriptures ! v passage at :i* ea* book 

is op5$ c be di/+ui%$6 ,we v]ifi$ ?is   
rem>kable ass]tion by ! aid ( a glass   
loan$ u by an att5dant4  ,footnote #a3  
,see ,! ,e>ly ,flemi% ,pa9t]s1 by ,j4   
,a4 ,cr[e & ,g4 ,b4 ,cavalcaselle1 pp4  
#di-fc2 & ,belgium1 ,its ,cities1 by    
,grant ,all51 pp4 #afd-age4  ,!         
subsequ5t hi/ory ( ! pa9t+ is int]e/+4  
,philip ,,ii1 :o c>ri$ _m ,flemi%       
ma/]pieces away to ,spa91 admir$ ?is "o1
 b cont5t$ himself ) a copy by ,mi*el   
,coxcie1 = :i* he paid f\r ?\s&         
ducats--:i* 0 q likely m ?an ! ,van     
,eyck bro!rs receiv$ = ! orig9al4 ,ab\t 
#aegh ! ,calv9i/s ( ,gh5t wi%$ to pres5t
 ! pa9t+ to ,que5 ,elizabe? 9 return =  
h] support ( _! sect4 ,= a "t x 0 plac$ 
9 ! ,hotel de ,ville at ,gh5t1 b 0      
f9ally re/or$ to ! ca!dral4 ,aft] sev]al
 o!r escapes f de/ruction or %ipm5t     
abroad ! "w 0 f9ally dismemb]$ out (    
def]5ce to ! views ( ,joseph ,,ii (     
,au/ria1 dur+ ! p]iod ( ,au/rian rule 9 
,fl&]s4 ,he object$ to ! nude figures ( 
,adam & ,eve z unsuit$ to a *ur*1 & ^! 7

 accord+ly remov$4 ,! entire "w 0 c>ri$ 
away dur+ ! ,fr5* ,revolution1 b 0      
return$ "s ye>s lat]4 ,! w+s1 h[ev]1 7 n
 re/or$ to _! orig9al position1 & 7     
f9ally sold to a ,london deal] = f\r    
?\s& p\nds /]l+4 ,he1 9 turn1 sold !m to
 ! ,k+ ( ,prussia1 & !y are n[ 9 !      
,museum ( ,b]l94 ,! w+s n[ at ,/4 ,bavon
 are ! copies made by ,coxcie4 ,!       
orig9al panels ( ,adam & ,eve 7 /or$ =  
_m ye>s 9 ! cell>s ( ,/4 ,bavon1 & !n 7 
ex*ang$ ) ! ,belgian ,gov]nm5t = !      
,coxcie w+s j m5tion$4 ,!y are n[ 9 !   
,brussels ,museum4 ,! ,adam & ,eve at   
,/4 ,bavon are n ev5 copies ( !         
orig9als4  ,illu/ration3 ,,s++ ,,angels 
,,f ,,! ,,adoration ,,( ,,!             
,,lamb4--,,jean ,,van ,,eyck4  ,jean    
,van ,eyck enjoy$ ! confid5ce &         
affection ( ,philip ! ,good until 8     
dea?1 & 0 (t5 s5t on diplomatic missions
 ( great importance4 ,on "o occasion he 
0 s5t to ,portugal ) an embassy appo9t$ 
to propose a m>riage betwe5 8 ducal     
patron & ! ,pr9cess ,isabel4 ,jean 0    

also commission$ to pa9t ! portrait ( ! 
fair ,isabel s t 8 ma/] c\ld judge =    
himself :e!r h] *>ms 7 z great z he _h  
fanci$ !m to be4 ,?is portrait 0 duly   
pa9t$ & 9 ! inv5tory ( ! possessions (  
,m>g>et ( ,au/ria !re 0 a pa9t+ by ,jean
 ,van ,eyck call$ ,la belle             
,portugalaise1 :i* 01 no d\bt1 ! v "o   
pa9t$ = ,duke ,philip4 ,x mu/ h be5     
pleas+1 = he m>ri$ ! lady4 ,z late z    
#aeaf ,la belle ,portugalaise 0 /ill 9  
exi/5ce at ,mal9es4 ,x repres5t$ a lady 
9 a r$ habit ) sable trimm+s1 att5d$ by 
,/4 ,ni*olas4 ,x has s9ce disappe>$--"o 
( ! _m ?\s&s t 7 lo/ or de/roy$ dur+ !  
w>s ( ! sixte5? to ! eighte5? c5turies1 
b bo? hi/orically & arti/ically "o ( !  
mo/ int]e/+ ( !m all4 ,!re are a        
consid]able numb] ( au!nticat$ pa9t+s by
 ,jean ,van ,eyck /ill 9 exi/5ce4       
,sev]al ( ^! are 9 ! orig9al frames ) ! 
arti/'s fam\s motto1 ,als ik kan 7,z ,i 
c71 m or less legible4 ,x is by no means
 unlikely t 9 "t to come "o or m ( ^? n[
 lo/ w be discov]$1 ?us add+ to !       

priceless h]itage t ! _w owes to 8      
immortal bru%4  ,illu/ration3 ,george   
,van d] ,paele1 ,canon ( ,/4 ,donatian  
wor%ipp+ ! ,madonna ,jean ,van ,eyck    
,two ( ! mo/ celebrat$ ( ,jean ,van     
,eyck's pa9t+s c be se5 at ,bruges4 ,"o 
( ^! is 9 ! ,museum & %[s ,george ,van  
d] ,paele1 ,canon ( ,/4 ,donatian1      
wor%ipp+ ! ,madonna4 ,( ! portrait ( !  
wor?y donor ,max ,rooses1 ! ,director ( 
! ,plant9-,moretus ,museum at ,antw]p1  
says3 ,! ,canon's face is s a/\nd+ly    
true to life t x is p]haps ! mo/        
m>vell\s piece ( pa9t+ t ev] aspir$ to  
reproduce a human physiognomy4 ,?is     
firm1 fat pa9t+ r5d]s at once ! cracks (
 ! epid]mis & ! s(tness ( ! fle%4       
,beside ?is head ) its lov+ly wr\ght    
furr[s & wr9kles gleam ! dazzl+ :ite ( !
 surplice ) its gre5i% %imm]1 ! int5se  
r$ ( ,m>y's mantle1 ,/4 ,donatian's fl[+
 cape1 & ! metallic reflections ( ,/4   
,george's brea/plate4 ,equally f9e z an 
example ( fai?ful portrait pa9t+ is !   
picture ( ! arti/'s wife :i* also hangs 

9 ?is int]e/+ little gall]y ( old ma/]s4
  ,f\r ye>s aft] ,jean ,van ,eyck's     
dea?1 :i* occurr$ 9 #addj1 ano!r ,flemi%
 pa9t] ( note acquir$ citiz5's rights at
 ,bruges4 ,?is 0 ,petrus ,*ri/us4 ,! mo/
 celebrat$ ( 8 pa9t+s depicts ! ,leg5d (
 ,/e4 ,godeb]te4 ,! /ory 0 t ?is "y     
lady's p>5ts _h plann$ a ri* m>riage =  
h]1 :]eas %e pref]r$ to ent] a conv5t4  
,! prospective bride & h] groom visit$ a
 jewell]'s to select ! w$d+ r+ & !re    
enc\nt]$ ,/4 ,eloi1 or ,elisius1 :o 0   
bo? a goldsmi? & a bi%op4 ,! ,sa9t1 kn[+
 ! wi%es ( ! maid51 plac$ ! r+ ^u h] f+]
 himself1 !reby d$icat+ h] to ! s]vice (
 ! ,"l4 ,?is picture 0 pa9t$ = !        
,goldsmi?s' ,guild ( ,antw]p1 pass$ into
 ! collection ( ,b>on ,opp5heim1 (      
,cologne1 & is n[ 9 a private gall]y4   
,besides ! ,adoration ( ! ,lamb1 !      
,ca!dral ( ,/4 ,bavon possesses en\gh   
o!r notable works ( art to equip a small
 museum4 ,"o ( ^! is ! wood5 pulpit1    
c>v$ by ,p4 ,h4 ,v]brugg51 & repres5t+ !
 glorification ( ,/4 ,bavon4 ,ano!r is !

 fam\s tomb ( ,bi%op ,trie/ c>v$ by     
,j]ome ,duquesnoy 9 #afed4 ,?is         
repres5ts ! ,bi%op recl9+ on a c\*1 &   
has be5 t]m$ ! mo/ beautiful piece (    
/atu>y 9 ! c\ntry4 ,/ill a ?ird         
ma/]piece is ,/4 ,bavon )draw+ f ! ,_w1 
by ,rub5s4 ,!re are a score ( o!r pa9t+s
 & pieces ( sculpture ( int]e/ &        
importance1 b all are s ov]-%ad[$ by !  
fam\s polypty* t ! av]age t\ri/ sc>cely 
notices !m unless he goes back to ?is   
rem>kable *ur* sev]al times4 ,9 front ( 
! ,*teau ( ,gir>d1 & close to ! ca!dral1
 /&s ! impressive monum5t to ! two ,van 
,eycks erect$ by ! city 9 #aiac4 ,x is  
by ! sculptor ,georges ,v]banck &       
repres5ts ! bro!rs receiv+ ! homage ( ! 
nations4     ,,*apt] ,,xii  ,,t\rnai1   
,,! ,,olde/ ,,city ,,9 ,,belgium   ,z ! 
ladies 7 some:at fatigu$ by our rambles 
ar\nd ,fl&]s x 0 decid$ t !y w\ld sp5d  
two or ?ree quiet days ) la tante ,rosa 
:ile ! ,pr(essor & ,i made daily        
excursions into wond]l&1 return+ to !   
home ( our ho/ess e night4 ,! ne>e/ po9t

 ( int]e/ 0 ! city ( ,t\rnai1 ! olde/   
city 9 all ,belgium4 ,!re 0 no direct   
railway l9e1 h[ev]1 &--z on _m o!r      
occasions dur+ our pilgrimage--we _h no 
little tr\ble /udy+ out a correspond5ce1
 or set ( connections1 t w\ld take u !re
 & back )\t loss ( "t4 ,we />t$ ea*     
morn+ be=e six o'clock & f\nd ! tra9s at
 t "t ( day made up mo/ly ( f\r?-class  
coa*es fill$ ) work+ p4 ,! ,belgian     
,/ate ,railway sells billets d'abonnem5t
 = ^! tra9s at incr$ibly l[ rates--a few
 s\s a mon? = %ort trips f "o t[n to !  
next1 & a few francs a mon? = rides half
 way across ! ,k+dom4 ,i h kn[n cl]ks   
resid+ 9 ! extreme s\!rn end ( !        
,dep>tm5t ( ,ha9aut1 close to ! ,fr5*   
fronti]1 :o ride e day to ,mons1 t5 or  
fifte5 miles di/ant1 & !re take a tra9 =
 ,brussels4 ,! object ( ?is l[ rate (   
f>e is ! pat]nal desire ( ! ,gov]nm5t t 
lab\r]s %\ld be able to obta9 "w :]ev] x
 may be f\nd & /ill reta9 _! homes 9 !  
villages 9 :i* !y 7 born & rais$4 ,home 
ties are v /rong 9 ,belgium1 & ! p      

*e]fully travel consid]able di/ances "u 
?is plan r ?an move away f _! relatives 
& fri5ds4 ,economically x is a v good ?+
 = ! c\ntry z a :ole1 s9ce x enables !  
lab\r] out ( "w to look = a place 9 a   
hundr$ diff]5t t[ns & ! employ] to draw 
8 help f an equally wide area4 ,?us 9   
times t are n abnormally bad !re are v  
few indu/rial plants )\t _! full quota (
 h&s1 & v few h&s out ( "w4  ,!         
f\r?-class coa*es are built l !         
?ird-class1 ) cross divisions mak+      
sev]al comp>tm5ts1 b ! division walls d 
n ext5d to ! ro( s ! pass5g]s c toss ?+s
 to "o ano!r ov] !m4 ,sep>ate c>s are   
provid$ = m5 & wom51 _m sc&als hav+     
result$ f ! promiscu\s h]d+ ( bo? sexes 
:i* prevail$ "s tw5ty ye>s ago4 ,!      
occupants ( ! m5's c>s are ( all ages1 f
 t9y lads :o seem to be h>dly m ?an     
eight or n9e--b are no d\bt old]1 z !   
,belgian laws no long] p]mit m9ors ( t  
age to "w--to gr&sires ( eighty4 ,all   
are r\ghly clad1 ready to take up _!    
respective tasks ! mom5t !y arrive--no  

"o ?9ks ( hav+ a sep>ate suit = travell+
 z mo/ ( ! workm5 :o commute to & f an  
,am]ican city w\ld d4 ,9 ! wom5's c> !  
occupants are mo/ly "y girls f fifte5 to
 tw5ty1 ) a spr9kl+ ( little girls & "s 
wom5 up to ?irty1 b v few :o appe> to be
 old] ?an t4 ,!y always seem to be      
happy1 s++ & c>ry+-on ) ! utmo/ ab&on4  
,!y are ready to />t a flirtation at a  
mom5t's notice & occasionally1 :5 _! c> 
halts 9 a /ation next to "s o!r tra9 9  
:i* !re are "y m5 ne> ! w9d[s1 ! :ole   
bevy ( *>m]s devotes itself to mak+     
conque/s--op5+ ! w9d[s & %\t+ a volley (
 good-natur$ raill]y to :i*1 if !y are  
natives & us$ to x1 ! y\ng/]s retort 9  
k9d4 ,!n1 z ! tra9s />t1 ! laugh+ cr[d  
?r[s kisses by h&fuls & ! flirtation is 
ov]4  ,z our tra9 jolt$ along1 ) frequ5t
 /ops to take on & let (f f\r?-class    
pass5g]s1 ! ,pr(essor expla9$ to me t to
 be consi/5t to 8 plan we really %\ld h 
visit$ ,t\rnai fir/4 ,h[ev]1 x 0 f> out 
( ! way z a />t+ po9t1 & its hi/ory did 
n dom9ate t ( all ,fl&]s 9 ! way t !    

e>ly hi/ory ( ,bruges did4 ,9 fact1 :ile
 9 e>ly times subject to ! ,c\nts (     
,fl&]s1 x 0 (t5 subject to ! ,fr5* ,cr[n
 = g5]ations at a "t1 & is usually      
reg>d$ z a ,walloon r ?an a ,flemi%     
city4 ,its influ5ce on ,flemi% art &    
ar*itecture1 h[ev]1 l$ u to include ?is 
,ville d',art 9 our it9]>y4  ,accord+ to
 ! s*ol>s ,t\rnai is ! ,turris ,n]viorum
 ( ,cs>1 ! capital ( ! ,n]vii1 & "o ( ! 
olde/ t[ns nor? ( ! ,alps4 ,9 #bii x 0 !
 sc5e ( ! m>tyrdom ( ,/4 ,piat1 :o f\nd$
 a *ur* on ! site ( ! ca!dral4 ,z !     
visitor gazes at t magnific5t /ructure  
he c reflect t ! gr\nd on :i* x /&s has 
be5 consecrat$ to div9e wor%ip = m ?an  
sixte5 hundr$ ye>s4 ,dur+ ! f\r? & fif? 
c5turies ,t\rnai 0 ! capital ( ! bran* (
 ! ,franks t rul$ ov] ! great] "p ( :at 
is n[ ,belgium1 b ! hi/ory ( ^! e>ly    
days :5 ! ,roman ,empire 0 tott]+ to its
 fall is v meagre1 & m ?an half leg5d at
 be/4 ,! fir/ k+s ( ! ,m]ov+ian l9e are 
%ad[y1 my?ical p]sonages :o /alk across 
! pages ( hi/ory l ! gho/ 9 ,hamlet--f> 

(f1 dim1 b awe-inspir+4  ,*ild]ic is "o 
( ! mo/ picturesque ( ^! e>ly k+s4      
,expell$ f ! tribe ow+ to 8 y\?ful      
gallantries1 he fl$ to ! c\rt ( ,bas9us1
 ,k+ ( ! ,?ur+ians4 ,! que51 ,bas9a1    
welcom$ him ev5 m w>mly ?an h] husb&1 & 
h>dly _h ,*ild]ic return$ home1 on be+  
recall$ by ! tribe "s ye>s lat] to rule 
ov] !m1 ?an %e foll[$ him4 ,arriv$ at 8 
c\rt1 %e ann\nc$ t %e _h come to m>ry   
him because he 0 ! brave/1 /ronge/ &    
h&some/ man %e _h he>d (4 ,%e add$1     
navely1 t if %e knew ( ano!r :o surpass$
 him 9 ^! p>ticul>s n ev5 ! sea c\ld    
keep h] f su* a rival4 ,bas9a1 :o f all 
acc\nts %\ld be ! patron sa9t ( !       
suffragettes1 won h] suit & !y 7 m>ri$4 
,on ! night be=e ! c]emony mony1 accord+
 to an anci5t *ronicle1 %e bade ,*ild]ic
 g into ! c\rty>d ( ! palace at ,t\rnai 
to see :at he might see4 ,he w5t at h]  
bidd+ ?ree times4 ,on ! fir/ occasion he
 beheld a long procession ( lions1      
unicorns & leop>ds1 /ruggl+ & snapp+ at 
"o ano!r1 b all )\t a s\nd1 nor did !   

bea/s ca/ any %ad[4 ,! second "t he saw 
huge be>s %ambl+ across ! c\rty>d :i*   
vani%$ ev5 :ile he 0 gaz+ at !m4 ,!n    
came packs ( wolves :i* ran 9 circles & 
leap$1 b sil5tly4 ,on 8 la/ visit he saw
 dogs ( huge size & _m col\rs1 &        
innum]able cats :i* always look$ beh9d  
!m4 ,f ^! port5ts ,bas9a expla9$ to him 
! qualities ( ! race ( k+s ( :i* he 0 to
 be ! ance/or4 ,clovis1 "o ( ! greate/ (
 ! e>ly ,franki% k+s1 0 ! *ild (        
,*ild]ic & ,bas9a4  ,9 ! six? c5tury    
,t\rnai figur$ prom95tly 9 ! n>rative ( 
! furi\s w>s betwe5 ,fr$egonda &        
,brunehault1 "o ( ! great epics ( ! e>ly
 ,middle ,ages4 ,fr$egonda1 :o 0 !      
daught] ( a bondsman1 became by virtue (
 h] beauty & imp]i\s w ! wife (         
,*ilp]ic1 ,k+ ( ! ,franks4 ,brunehault1 
equally beautiful1 b a k+'s daught] z   
well z ! wife ( a k+--,sigeb]t1 bro!r ( 
,*ilp]ic--began ! conte/ to av5ge ! dea?
 ( h] si/] ,galesw9?a1 :om ,fr$egonda _h
 caus$ to be sla94 ,*ilp]ic & ,fr$egonda
 7 besieg$ at ,t\rnai 9 #ege1 b ! latt] 

caus$ ! murd] ( ,sigeb]t1 ^u ^: dea? !  
besieg+ army disp]s$4 ,incid5ts 9 ?is   
siege are depict$ 9 ! /a9$-glass w9d[s (
 ! ca!dral4 ,! conte/ betwe5 ! two fi]ce
 que5s la/$ m ?an half a c5tury1        
,brunehault at ! la/ be+ torn to pieces 
by wild horses1 :5 m ?an eighty ye>s    
old1 by ! son ( h] life-long rival4  ,9 
#hhj ! ,norsem5 fell ^u ! city & its    
inhabitants fl$ to ,noyon1 :]e !y rema9$
 = ?irty-"o ye>s4 ,9 its subsequ5t      
hi/ory ! old t[n su/a9$ m ?an its %>e ( 
sieges1 ! common lot ( all fronti]      
places1 & *ang$ h&s (t5] ?an any o!r    
,european city4 ,= _m g5]ations x 0     
subject to ! e>ly ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s4      
,philip ,augu/us !n annex$ x to ,france1
 to :i* x belong$ until ! reign (       
,francis ,i4 ,9 #acdj occurr$ ! mo/     
fam\s ( all its sieges4 ,x belong$ at t 
"t to ,france & 0 attack$ by ! ,engli%  
"u ,edw>d ,,iii1 a huge army ( ,flem+s  
"u ,jacques ,van ,artevelde1 ! ,duke (  
,brabant & ! ,c\nt ( ,ha9aut ) _!       
foll[]s & _m o!rs--a ho/ e/imat$ by     

,froiss>t at "o hundr$ & tw5ty ?\s& m54 
,t delightful hi/orian devotes m ?an a  
doz5 *apt]s to a gossipy acc\nt ( !     
siege1 :i* la/$ m ?an elev5 weeks & 0   
only rais$ by ! approa* ( a ,fr5* army  
:5 ! supply ( provisions 0 r$uc$ to ?ree
 days' rations4 ,9 #aeac ,t\rnai 0      
captur$ by ,h5ry ,,viii1 :o gave ! see  
to ,c>d9al ,wolsey1 b soon sold x back  
to ! ,fr5*4 ,! huge r\nd t[] a little   
di/ance to ! "r z "o ent]s ! city f !   
railway /ation 0 erect$ by ! ,engli% ,k+
 dur+ 8 %ort rule4 ,9 #aeba ! city 0    
captur$ by ,*>les ! ,fif?1 becom+ a "p (
 8 doma9s1 & 9 #aeha x su/a9$ ano!r     
fam\s siege4 ,9 common ) ! re/ ( ,fl&]s 
& ! ,l[ ,c\ntries1 ! city _h revolt$    
aga9/ ! atrocities ( ,philip ,,ii4 ,x 0 
besieg$ by ! ,pr9ce ( ,p>ma & h]oically 
def5d$ by ,*ri/9e1 ,pr9cess ( ,ep9oy1 ^:
 /atue /&s 9 ! ,gr&e ,place4 ,%e 0      
h]self w\nd$ & _h lo/ m ?an ?ree-f\r?s (
 ! g>rison be=e %e surr5d]$4  ,t\rnai   
once m pass$ into ! h&s ( ! ,fr5* 9     
#affh1 :5 x 0 captur$ by ,l\is ,,xiv &  

aft]w>ds elaborately =tifi$ by ,vauban1 
0 retak5 by ,m>lbor\gh 9 #agji1 return$ 
to ,au/ria five ye>s lat]1 & captur$    
once m by ! ,fr5* aft] ! battle (       
,font5oy 9 #agde4 ,f\r ye>s lat] x 0    
aga9 re/or$ to ,au/ria1 b 0 twice tak5  
by ! armies ( ! fir/ ,fr5* republic1    
rema9+ ,fr5* t]ritory till ! battle (   
,wat]loo4 ,x w\ld be a difficult matt]  
to say h[ (t5 its =tifications h be5    
built1 demoli%$1 rebuilt & aga9 de/roy$4
  ,! mo/ notewor?y ( ^! lat] sieges 0 t 
( #agde1 dur+ ! ,w> ( ! ,au/rian        
,succession1 :i* br\ght ! ,engli% &     
,fr5* into conflict ev5 along ! fronti]s
 ( _! f>-(f ,am]ican colonies4 ,au/rian 
,fl&]s became ! ar5a ( ! decisive       
campaign 9 ?is w>--9 :i* its inhabitants
 _h absolutely no int]e/ or conc]n      
:atev]--& ,t\rnai 0 ! prize = :i* !     
armies f\ght4 ,x 0 dur+ ?is & ! prec$+  
c5tury t ,fl&]s became ! cockpit (      
,europe--=eign armies sweep+ ov] its    
f]tile pla9s 9 w>s ! v purpose ( :i* 0  
unkn[n to ! peasants :o helplessly saw  

_! cattle & crops swept away & _!       
f>m/eads & villages de/roy$4 ,x is      
curi\s to rem>k h[ frequ5tly ! ,engli% 7
 engag$ 9 ^! conflicts1 p>ticul>ly 9 !  
vic9ity ( ,t\rnai4 ,9 ! words ( ,"l     
,beaconsfield1 ,fl&]s has be5 trodd5 by 
! feet & wat]$ ) ! blood ( successive   
g5]ations ( ,briti% soldi]s4  ,an       
,engli% =ce =m$ ! nucleus & ! backbone (
 ! alli$ army1 :i* 0 comm&$ by ! ,duke (
 ,cumb]l&1 bro!r ( ,k+ ,george ,,ii4 ,! 
,fr5* =ces 7 l$ by ,maurice de ,saxe1 ! 
greate/ milit>y lead] ( t g5]ation1 z   
,m>lbor\gh _h be5 ( ! "o be=e x4 ,k+    
,l\is ,,xv--= almo/ ! only "t 9 8 long  
reign--play$ ! "p ( a man ?r\gh\t ?is   
campaign4 ,:5 ,saxe expla9$ 8 plan (    
campaign1 :i* involv$ a s*eme ( field   
=tifications1 ! c>pet g5]als prote/$    
l\dly t ,fr5*m5 7 well able to meet _!  
foes on op5 gr\nd4 ,l\is sil5c$ ^!      
arm-*air critics & repli$ to 8 great    
field-m>%al1 ,9 confid+ to y ! comm& (  
my army ,i int5d t e "o %all obey y1 &  
,i w be ! fir/ to set an example (      

ob$i5ce4  ,= a "t ! allies1 :i* consi/$ 
( ,engli%1 ,hanov]ian1 ,dut* & ,au/rian 
troops--v few ,flem+s tak+ "p 9 ?is     
campaign on ei!r side--7 9 d\bt :e!r    
,saxe int5d$ to attack ,mons1 ,/4       
,ghisla9 or ,t\rnai4 ,) 8 usual rapidity
 ( action1 ! ,fr5* lead]1 :5 8 =ces     
sudd5ly appe>$ be=e ,t\rnai1 _h t city  
completely inve/$ be=e ! allies knew :]e
 he 04 ,x 0 e>ly 9 ! mon? ( ,may1 & v   
ra9y1 :5 ! alli$ army />t$ f ,brussels &
 m>*$ ?r\gh ! mud t[>d ! beleagu]$ city4
 ,on ! ev5+ ( ,may t5?1 elev5 days aft] 
! siege _h begun1 !y arriv$ )9 sight ( !
 qu9tuple t[]s ( ! ca!dral & ! adjac5t  
belfry4 ,_! position 0 s\!a/ ( ! city1  
on ! r\te to ,/4 ,ghisla9 & ,mons1 & !  
t[]s 7 !re=e %>ply outl9$ aga9/ ! sunset
 z ! army1 /&+ on ris+ gr\nd1 gaz$      
across ! roll+ c\ntry t 0 to be !       
morr['s battlefield4  ,saxe _h made !   
mo/ ( ! sl[ness ( ! allies' advance by  
*oos+ ! gr\nd :]e he w\ld give battle1 &
 /r5g!n+ 8 position ) field r$\bts1 us+ 
! little village ( ,font5oy z a base4 ,!

 allies attack$ f ! direction ( ! little
 village ( ,vezon1 :ile ,l\is ,,xv wat*$
 ! battle f a hill ne> ! int]section ( !
 ,mons road ) t lead+ f ,ramecroix to   
,anto+4 ,! attack began at two o'clock 9
 ! morn+1 ! ,engli% advanc+ 9 a holl[   
squ>e1 & x 0 n until aft] two 9 !       
aft]noon t ,saxe1 aft] br++ e man 9 8   
=ces into action1 _h ! satisfaction (   
see+ ! great squ>e falt] & turn sl[ly   
back--halt+ e hundr$ y>ds to beat (f its
 foes4 ,! fi]ce/ unit 9 ! ,fr5* army 0 a
 brigade ( ,iri% volunte]s :o f\ght l   
tig]s1 ! m5 fl++ !mselves aga9/ !       
/ubborn ,engli% squ>e aga9 & aga94 ,a   
le>n$ hi/orian1 :o has devot$ m ?an     
eighty pages to a description ( !       
battle1 fails to give s cle> an idea (  
its decisive mom5t z does ! poet ,?omas 
,osborne ,davis 9 half z _m l9es3       
,?rice at ! huts ( ,font5oy ! ,engli%   
column fail$1     ,& twice ! l9es (     
,sa9t ,anto9e ! ,dut* 9 va9 assail$2    
,= t[n & slope 7 fill$ ) =t & flank+    
batt]y1     ,& well !y swept ! ,engli%  

ranks & ,dut* auxili>y4     ,z va9ly    
?r\gh ,de ,b>ri's wood ! ,briti% soldi]s
 bur/1     ,! ,fr5* artill]y drove !m   
back1 dim9i%$ & disp]s$4     ,! bloody  
,duke ( ,cumb]l& beheld ) anxi\s eye1   
,& ord]$ up 8 la/ res]ves1 8 late/ *ance
 to try4     ,on ,font5oy1 on ,font5oy1 
h[ fa/ 8 g5]als ride6     ,& mu/]+ came 
8 *os5 troops1 l cl\ds at ev5tide4      
,six ?\s& ,engli% vet]ans 9 /ately      
column tread2     ,_! cannon blaze 9    
front & flank1 ,"l ,hay is at _! head4  
,/eady !y /ep a-d[n ! slope1 /eady !y   
climb ! hill1     ,/eady !y load1 /eady 
!y fire1 mov+ "r onw>d /ill1            
,betwixt ! wood & ,font5oy1 z ?r\gh a   
furnace bla/1     ,?r\gh ramp>t1 tr5* & 
palisade1 & bullets %[]+ fa/2     ,& on 
! op5 pla9 above !y rose & kept _!      
c\rse1     ,) ready fire & grim resolve 
t mock$ at ho/ile =ce2     ,pa/         
,font5oy1 pa/ ,font5oy1 :ile ?9n] grew  
_! ranks1     ,!y broke1 z broke !      
,zuyd] ,zee ?r\gh ,holl&'s ocean banks4 
99       99       99       99       99  

',pu% on my h\sehold cavalry6' ,k+ ,l\is
 madly cri$4     ,to dea? !y ru%1 b rude
 _! %ock2 n unav5g$ !y di$4     ,on     
?r\gh ! camp ! column trod--,k+ ,l\is   
turns 8 re94     ',n yet1 my liege1'    
,saxe int]pos$2 '! ,iri% troops rema94' 
',"l ,claire1' he said1 'y h y\r wi%2   
!re are y\r ,saxon         foes6'     ,!
 ,m>%al almo/ smiles to see1 s furi\sly 
he goes1     ,h[ fi]ce ! looks ^! exiles
 we>1 :o're wont to be s gay6     ,!    
treasur$ wrongs ( fifty ye>s are 9 _!   
he>ts to-day4     ,on ,font5oy1 on      
,font5oy1 nor ev] yet else:]e1     ,ru%$
 on to fight a nobl] b& ?an ^! pr\d     
exiles 74             99       99       
99       99       99      ,l lions leap+
 at a fold1 :5 mad ) hung]'s pang1      
,"r up aga9/ ! ,engli% l9e ! ,iri%      
exiles sprang2     ,bright 0 _! /eel1   
'tis bloody n[1 _! guns are fill$ )     
gore2     ,?r\gh %att]$ ranks & sev]$   
files & trampl$ flags !y         tore4  
,! ,engli% /rove ) desp]ate /r5g?2      
paus$1 ralli$1         /agg]$1 fl$2     

,! gre5 hillside is matt$ close ) dy+ & 
) dead4     ,across ! pla9 & f> away    
pass$ on t hide\s wrack     ,:ile       
cavali] & ,fantass9 ru% 9 ^u _! track4  
,on ,font5oy1 on ,font5oy1 l eagles 9 ! 
sun1     ,) bloody plumes ! ,iri% /&--! 
field is f\ght & won6  ,on our fir/     
day's visit ! ,pr(essor devot$ mo/ ( !  
"t to ! ca!dral & ! rema9s t /ill exi/ (
 ! e>lie/ p]iod ( ,t\rnai's long & v>i$ 
hi/ory4 ,z we approa*$ ! city1 pa/ ! va/
 excavations ar\nd ,anto+ connect$ ) !  
lime pits & kilns & cem5t works t !re   
ab\nd1 we c\ld see ! five spires ( !    
ca!dral 9 ! di/ance4 ,anto+ is only a   
mile & a half f ,font5oy1 & !           
battlefield--m>k$ by a monum5t erect$ 9 
#aijg--;is happily free f ! pits t sc> s
 mu* ( ! c\ntryside !reab\ts1 & no d\bt 
looks to-day v mu* z x did on ! day ( ! 
great fight4  ,! ca!dral ( ,t\rnai is ! 
olde/1 ! mo/ va/1 & decid$ly ! mo/      
impos+ religi\s edifice 9 ,belgium4 ,its
 five great t[]s dom9ate ! entire city &
 are visible = miles across ! surr\nd+  

pla9s4 ,! olde/ portions ( ! pres5t     
/ructure date f ab\t #hhj1 :5 !         
inhabitants ( ,t\rnai return$ aft] !    
invasion ( ! ,norsem54 ,! side por*es ( 
! naves belong to ?is e>lie/ p]iod4 ,9  
#ajed a fire de/roy$ ! upp] "p ( !      
ca!dral & x 0 %ortly aft] ?is t ! t[]s 7
 built4 ,!re 7 orig9ally sev5 ( ^!1 ! "o
 9 ! c5tre be+ a gigantic squ>e /ructure
 ris+ above all ! o!rs4 ,! gr\p z x !n  
/ood 0 )\t a rival 9 ,europe1 b ! two   
t[]s to ! ea/ ( ! c5tral "o 7 remov$ ) !
 anci5t *oir & ! height ( ! c5tral t[]  
r$uc$4 ,9 _! pres5t =m1 h[ev]1 ! t[]s   
compose a magnific5t assemblage4        
,illu/ration3 ,,g5]al ,,view ,,(        
,,t\rnai ,,& ,,! ,,five-,,t[]$          
,,ca!dral4  ,! f\r out] t[]s1 :i*       
surr\nd ! n[ mu* %ort] c5tral "o1 are   
two hundr$ & sev5ty-two feet high1 &1   
al?\gh app>5tly alike at ! fir/ glance1 
are n entirely s--a circum/ance t       
enhances r ?an detracts f !             
picturesqu5ess ( ! gr\p4 ,plac$ at !    
cross+ ( ! nave & ! transept ^! t[]s1 f 

)\t1 sugge/ ! fanta/ic idea t in/ead (  
"o !re are two ca!drals1 ea* fac+ ! o!r1
 & ) ! c5tral t[] unit+ !m4  ,9 reality1
 ! edifice is l>ge en\gh to make two    
ca!drals & m1 ! int]ior be+ f\r hundr$ &
 tw5ty-six feet 9 l5g? & two hundr$ &   
tw5ty feet 9 wid? across ! transept4    
,built at diff]5t epo*s1 ?is impos+     
edifice con/itutes a v]itable hi/ory 9  
/one ( ! developm5t ( m$ival            
ar*itecture4 ,! nave 0 complet$ 9 #ajgj 
& ! transept 9 ! elev5? & twelf?        
c5turies4 ,bo? are 9 ! ,romanesque /yle1
 :ile ! *oir--orig9ally ,romanesque--0  
rebuilt 9 #abdb-acbe 9 ! e>ly ,go?ic    
/yle4 ,x is bo? long] & almo/ fifty feet
 high] ?an ! old] nave--a fact t leads !
 obs]v] look+ at ! /ructure f )\t to    
mi/ake x = ! nave itself4 ,9 addition to
 ! ma9 edifice !re is a small p>i% *apel
 built aga9/ ! nor? side ( ! ca!dral1 a 
,go?ic edifice dat+ f #aeaf-aeah1 :ile  
atta*$ to x by a passage ov] a          
picturesque ar* call$ ,le fausseporte is
 ! ,bi%op's palace4 ,"h !re is ano!r    

*apel1 ! ,*apel ( ! ,bi%ops1 dat+ f !   
twelf? c5tury4  ,l mo/ religi\s         
/ructures 9 ,belgium1 ! ca!dral 0 = _m  
ye>s surr\nd$1 & almo/ entirely obscur$1
 by small private h\ses ( all k9ds built
 up aga9/ x4 ,^! h n[ be5 remov$1 al?\gh
 !re are /ill a few m t we 7 told 7     
de/9$ to come d[n 9 ord] to give a bett]
 view ( ! /ructure f "o side4 ,!re are  
?ree entrances1 ( :i* two are notewor?y4
 ,"o ( ^!1 call$ ! ,porte ,mantille1 is 
on ! nor? side fac+ ! ,place des        
,acacias1 & dates f ! twelf? c5tury4 ,x 
is ! olde/ "p ( ! ext]ior1 & looks x1 ! 
r\nd ar* ( ! doorway be+ surr\nd$ by    
qua9t ,romanesque sculptures4 ,! w9ds ( 
sev5 hundr$ w9t]s h worn ^! bas-reliefs 
d[n consid]ably1 b !y are /ill          
surpris+ly cle>1 ! faces1 arm\r &       
co/umes ( ! figures be+ q di/9ct4 ,!y   
are among ! olde/ /one c>v+s 9 ,europe &
 %[ t ! art ( sculpture 0 practis$ at   
,t\rnai )9 a c5tury or two aft] !       
retirem5t ( ! ,norsem54  ,ev5 m int]e/+ 
is ! f9e faade j beh9d ! gro9$ por* t   

faces ! ,place de l',ev*4 ,f a di/ance  
?is end ( ! ca!dral is h>dly pleas+1 !  
sixte5?-c5tury por* conceal+ ! e>ly     
,romanesque faade & be+ out ( h>mony )  
x4 ,aft] pass+ )9 ! ar*es1 h[ev]1 !     
visitor =gets all ?is & is lo/ 9 wond] &
 admiration at ! weal? ( /one c>v+ t    
decorates ! walls on bo? sides ( ! ma9  
entrance4 ,!re is no su* decoration 9   
/one to be se5 9 all ,fl&]s1 = ! *ur*es 
( ,t\rnai escap$ ! fury ( !             
iconocla/s--,t\rnai1 at t "t1 belong+ to
 ,france4 ,"h ! sculptors ( ,t\rnai h   
a*iev$ a v]itable ma/]piece4 ,! "w is 9 
?ree ti]s & belongs to ?ree diff]5t     
p]iods4 ,! l[e/ ti]1 c>v$ 9 blue /one   
qu>ri$ 9 ,t\rnai itself or ne> by1 is ! 
mo/ rem>kable1 & is reg>d$ by ! critics 
z ! f9e/ 9 arti/ic m]it4 ,x dates f !   
?irte5? c5tury & repres5ts ,adam & ,eve 
& v>i\s prophets & fa!rs ( ! *ur*4 ,!   
second zone is 9 :ite /one1 n[ grey )   
age1 & 0 ! "w ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,x    
comprises a s]ies ( small panels c>v$ 9 
bas-relief1 ^? at ! left depict+--s !   

au?orities at ,t\rnai tell u--a religi\s
 procession1 & ^? at ! "r v>i\s incid5ts
 9 ! hi/ory ( ,k+ ,*ild]ic4 ,! highe/   
ti] comprises a s]ies ( l>ge /atues 9   
high relief ( ! apo/les1 ! ,virg9 ,m>y1 
,/4 ,piat & ,/4 ,eleu!reus4 ,al?\gh !   
figures are boldly conceiv$ & well      
execut$1 &1 9 ! ma91 fairly well        
pres]v$1 !y are arti/ically less        
important ?an ! o!rs4 ,9 its entirety1  
h[ev]1 ?is entrance--le portail1 !      
entrance1 z ! p ( ,t\rnai /yle x--is a  
place ( wond]ful int]e/1 a place to be  
visit$ aga9 & aga9 "u diff]5t lights & 9
 diff]5t moods4  ,pass+ into ! int]ior (
 ! ca!dral ! visitor is aga9 giv5 !     
impression t "h he is n 9 "o *ur* b at  
lea/ two & possibly m4 ,! anci5t nave1 )
 its vault$ ro( support$ by ?ree s]ies (
 ,romanesque ar*es plac$ "o above ano!r1
 seems someh[ to be complete by itself &
 to h no relation to ! f>-(f *oir :i* is
 p>tially cut (f f x by an elaborately  
c>v$ rood l(t1 :i*--9 its flamboyant    
,r5aissance /yle--seems out ( place &   

t5ds to m> ! g5]al effect ( ! va/       
int]ior4 ,! pill>s 9 ! nave are n uni=m1
 b h a wide div]sity ( capitals--"s     
decorat$ ) ! lotus or conv5tional       
foliage1 o!rs ) bea/s or birds or qua9t1
 fanta/ic heads4 ,at ! int]section ( !  
nave & transept ! great pill>s support+ 
! c5tral t[] are ( trem5d\s proportions 
& ! view look+ upw>d f ?is po9t is "o ( 
extraord9>y gr&eur4 ,"h1 too1 ! rood    
l(t1 or jub1 c be /udi$ to be/          
advantage4 ,! "w ( ,corneille ,floris ( 
,antw]p & execut$ 9 #aegb1 x is         
und\bt$ly "o ( ! ma/]pieces ( sculpture 
( its p]iod4 ,! ,doric columns are ( r$ 
m>ble1 ! ar*itectural outl9es ( !       
/ructure 9 black m>ble1 & ! m$allions & 
o!r bas-reliefs 9 :ite4 ,pass+ ?r\gh "o 
( ! ?ree ar*es ( ?is portal we come to !
 noble *oir4 ,?is is ! mo/ beautiful    
portion ( ! ca!dral1 its va/ height & ! 
ri*ly col\r$ light t /reams d[nw>d f its
 f9e /a9$-glass w9d[s creat+ a v        
atmosph]e ( maje/y & inspiration4  ,:ile
 we 7 inspect+ ! *oir & ! ambulatory1   

:i* conta9s sev]al pa9t+s & c>v+s ( no  
little int]e/1 ! ,pr(essor discov]$ t ! 
h\rs _h be5 slipp+ by fa/] ?an we _h    
imag9$ & z !re 7 sev]al relics ( !      
e>lie/ p]iod ( ! city's hi/ory t we wi%$
 to visit on our fir/ day we decid$ to  
betake ourselves to ! ,gr&e ,place &    
po/pone our visit to ! f>-fam$ treasury 
( ! ca!dral to ano!r day4 ,we f\nd a    
little place to d9e directly fac+ !     
,belfry1 & ) ! ,pr9cess ( ,ep9oy1 9 h]  
coat ( mail & br&i%+ h] battle-axe1 /&+ 
on h] monum5t h>d by4 ,! ,place is a v  
l>ge "o1 b mo/ ( ! h\ses fac+ x h be5 s 
mod]niz$ z to lose mu* ( _! m$ival      
aspect1 al?\gh ! anci5t ,clo? ,hall--:i*
 has rec5tly be5 re/or$--no d\bt looks  
mu* z x did :5 9 its prime4  ,! ,belfry 
0 naturally our fir/ /opp+ place aft] we
 _h done ju/ice to ! excell5t d9n] 9    
half a doz5 c\rses t two francs _h      
secur$ = u4 ,?is edifice dates f #aahg1 
& /&s slightly back f ! apex ( !        
triangle =m$ by ! ,gr&e ,place4 ,accord+
 to "s au?orities ! peculi> %ape ( !    

,place is due to ! int]section ( two    
,roman roads at ! po9t :]e ! ,belfry n[ 
/&s4 ,ext]nally ! t[]1 :i* is two hundr$
 & ?irty-six feet high1 /rik+ly         
resembles ! ,belfry ( ,gh5t4 ,)91 aft]  
climb+ a w9d+ /airway = "s di/ance1 we 7
 %[n sev]al l>ge rooms ) heavy timb]    
ceil+s t 7 once us$ z prison cells4 ,!y 
look$ fairly com=table1 z comp>$ ) !    
dungeons 9 ! ,*teau des ,comtes1 & "o ( 
!m 0 !n 9 use by ! small son ( !        
conci]ge z a play-room & 0 litt]$ )     
toys--mo/ly ( 8 own manufacture1        
app>5tly4 ,! doors to ^! cells 7 (      
massive con/ruction & lock$ by keys     
ne>ly a foot long1 or at lea/ x seem$ s1
 ?\gh we did n measure !m4 ,! view f !  
top ( ! edifice is picturesque & well   
wor? ! climb4 ,a melodi\s set ( *imes is
 in/all$ ne> ! top1 :i* r+ e half h\r4  
,! big bell1 la ,bancloque1 :i* call$ ! 
p to arms1 0 ca/ 9 #acib1 & mu/ h be5   
rung q frequ5tly dur+ ! /irr+ days :5   
,t\rnai 0 be+ f\ght = by armies f half !
 c\ntries 9 ,europe4  ,illu/ration3 ,,! 

,,belfry1 ,,t\rnai4  ,f ! ,belfry we    
visit$ ! anci5t ,*ur* ( ,/4 ,brice :i*  
/&s 9 "o ( ! v olde/ qu>t]s ( ! city4   
,almo/ fac+ ! *ur* are two build+s kn[n 
z ! ,roman h\ses4 ,al?\gh h>dly dat+ f !
 "t ( ! ,romans !y are und\bt$ly v      
anci5t4 ,only ! out] walls1 h[ev]1 rema9
 ( ! orig9al con/ruction1 ! int]iors    
dat+ f a mu* lat] p]iod4 ,"o ( ^! h\ses 
0 unt5ant$ :5 we 7 !re1 & ! o!r 0 an    
e/am9et4 ,we ent]$ x & ord]$ dr9ks1 &   
ask$ if we c\ld see ! up-/airs rooms1 b 
app>5tly !y 7 n v tidy z ! l&lady decl9$
 to %[ !m1 assur+ u t !re 0 no?+ to see4
 ,at ,no4 #ah on ! same /reet1 rue      
,b>re-,sa9t-,brice1 is ano!r e/am9et 9 a
 h\se ( v anci5t con/ruction4 ,aft] q a 
se>* we f\nd ! c>etak] ( ! *ur*4 ,z old 
z ! olde/ "p ( ! ca!dral ?is /ructure is
 a rem>kable example ( ,romanesque      
ar*itecture4 ,ext]nally x looks f ! re> 
l ?ree /one b>ns built close toge!r1 b  
its squ>e t[] is l(ty & impos+1 al?\gh  
mu* injur$ by a silly sort ( hat :i* 0  
/uck on e>ly 9 ! la/ c5tury4 ,! mo/     

int]e/+ object )9 0 a qua9t ,t\rnai     
tape/ry repres5t+ a v>iety ( ,biblical  
subjects4  ,9 ! ye> #afec ar*eologi/s & 
hi/orians ?r\gh\t ,europe 7 greatly     
excit$ ov] "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ f9ds (    
anci5t relics ev] record$4 ,9 ! h\se n[ 
,no4 #h on ! ,t]race ,sa9t-,brice1 on "o
 side ( ! *ur*1 0 dug up at a dep? (    
eight feet a v]itable museum ( arms &   
jewels s9ce kn[n z ! ,treasure (        
,*ild]ic ,i1 ^: m>riage ) ,bas9a 0      
prec$$ by s _m port5ts4 ,m ?an a hundr$ 
gold co9s ( ! ,byzant9e ,emp]ors 7 f\nd1
 sev]al hundr$ gold5 bees1 a quantity ( 
silv] money ( great antiquity1 div]s    
clasps & buckles--all m+l$ ) ! rema9s ( 
human bones1 :i* may h be5 ^? ( !       
,m]ov+ian ,k+ & 8 imp]i\s sp\se4 ,"o r+ 
bore a bu/ ( a man ) long hair hold+ a  
lance1 ) ! inscription ,*ild]ici ,regis4
 ,aft] pass+ ?r\gh v>i\s h&s !          
collection came into ! possession (     
,l\is ,,xiv1 & ev5tually into !         
,biblio!que ,royale at ,p>is4 ,"h1 9    
#ahca1 x 0 /ol54 ,! ?ieves 7 pursu$ &   

?rew _! booty into ! ,se9e1 :]e a few   
pieces 7 aft]w>ds recov]$ & are n[ 9 !  
numismatic collection ( ! ,biblio!que   
,nationale at ,p>is4  ,n f> f ?is       
int]e/+ old qu>t] are "s picturesque    
rema9s ( ! anci5t city walls1 two ivy   
cov]$ t[]s fac+ a moat 9 :i* !re is /ill
 "s wat]4 ,^! are call$ ! ,m>vis ,t[]s1 
& 7 erect$ dur+ ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,on   
our way back to ! /ation we made a      
little det\r 9 ord] to see ! curi\s     
,pont des ,tr\s--lit]ally ! ,bridge ( ! 
,holes1 mean+ loopholes--! mo/ anci5t   
specim5 ( m$ival milit>y ar*itecture 9  
,belgium4 ,! t[] on ! side f>!/ f !     
c5tre ( ! city 0 built prior to #abei1 !
 o!r 9 #acjd1 & ! bridge ) its ?ree     
ogival ar*es 9 #accj4 ,across ! bridge  
at %ort int]vals are n>r[ loopholes to  
enable ! def5d]s to fire at foes        
approa*+ by way ( ! ,riv] ,s*eldt4 ,"o (
 ! t[]s is said to conta9 a f9e vault$  
room1 b z we 7 unable to f9d any "o :o  
knew :o _h ! key to ! little door at its
 foot we did n see ?is room or !        

passage-way across ! bridge4 ,betwe5 ?is
 bridge & ! railway l9e we notic$ a high
 /one wall ( anci5t con/ruction :i*1 f  
its location1 may also h be5 a fragm5t (
 ! city walls4 ,fur!r on is ! ,h5ry     
,,viii t[]1 :i* 0 built by ! ,engli%    
mon>* aft] he captur$ ! city 9 #aeac1 z 
"p ( a citadel int5d$ to hold ! citiz5s 
9 *eck4 ,! t[] is slightly ov]          
sev5ty-five feet 9 diamet] & ! walls at 
! base are said to be tw5ty feet ?ick4  
,! re/ ( ! citadel has long s9ce        
disappe>$ & ?is ve/ige ( x is n[ ! c5tre
 ( a pleasant little p>k mu* frequ5t$ on
 sunny days by nursemaids & *ildr54     
,amid ^! peaceful surr\nd+s x 01 :5 we  
saw x1 h>d to picture ! old t[] z hav+  
ev] be5 ! sc5e ( fi]ce conflicts )      
furi\s foes /riv+ to batt] a brea* 9 its
 massive walls or scale x ) long ladd]s1
 :ile its def5d]s fir$ volley aft]      
volley ?r\gh its t9y w9d[s & flung d[n  
big /ones or boil+ t> f its p>apet4  ,! 
/rategy ( ! e>ly "p ( ! pres5t w> did n 
call = a protract$ def5ce ( ,t\rnai1 ) !

 result t1 z ?is is be+ writt51 ! old   
city is report$ to h suff]$ little or no
 damage4 ,9 view ( ! frequ5cy ) :i* x _h
 be5 cont5d$ = 9 =m] w>s x is to be hop$
 t ?is "o--:i* has s f> be5 m de/ructive
 ?an all previ\s w>s put toge!r--w pass 
qua9t old ,t\rnai by & t ! great ca!dral
 ) its five t[]s & m>vell\s /one c>v+s  
may be sp>$ = g5]ations yet to come4    
,,*apt] ,,xiii  ,,sev5 ,,c5turies ,,(   
,,t\rnaisian ,,art   ,! citiz5s (       
,t\rnai ( to-day h giv5 to _! beautiful 
city ! "n ( ,ville d',art4 ,to be sure1 
! same title is claim$ = ,bruges &      
,gh5t1 = ,antw]p & ,mal9es4 ,! fir/ two 
are ju/ly pr\d ( _! _m beautiful        
monum5ts ( ! pa/ & _! associations ) !  
"w ( ! e>ly ,flemi% pa9t]s1 ,antw]p (   
its connection ) ! lat] developm5t (    
pa9t+ 9 ,fl&]s & ! mo/ arti/ic ( ! e>ly 
pr9t]s1 ,mal9es ( its lace & its spl5did
 examples ( religi\s ar*itecture & art4 
,t\rnai1 h[ev]1 has a broad] title to ! 
phrase ?an any ( !m 9 t ! arti/ic       
activities ( its gift$ sons h n be5     

conf9$ to "o m$ium or two1 b h be5      
indep5d5tly develop$ along half a score 
( diff]5t l9es & dur+ a p]iod cov]+ m   
?an sev5 c5turies4 ,n only is ! city a  
ri* repository ( ! arti/ic productions (
 pa/ ages1 b x is /ill m notable 9 hav+ 
be5 "o ( ! mo/ prolific produc]s (      
beautiful & arti/ic ?+s4 ,to ! true     
connoisseur a /ay ( sev]al weeks 9 ?is  
f9e old bord] t[n w\ld be none too long 
to af=d opportunity to /udy all ( its   
collections & rummage 9 out-(-!-way     
corn]s = /ray specim5s t ! deal]s &     
b>ga9 hunt]s h ov]look$4 ,un=tunately1  
nei!r ! ,pr(essor nor ,i c lay claim to 
m ?an a rudim5t>y k ( su* matt]s & 9 !  
*ronicle ( our rambles 9 ! ,city ( ,art 
!re may be mu* to make ! judici\s       
grieve4 ,x is n1 h[ev]1 s mu* 9 ord] to 
give an acc\nt ( :at we saw t ?is *apt] 
is writt5 z 9 ! hope t x may sugge/ h[  
mu* !re is to see = ^? ^: eyes are bett]
 tra9$ & m discrim9at+ ?an ours4        
,t\rnai looms l>ge 9 ! hi/ory ( e>ly    
,flemi% pa9t+1 = x 0 "h t ! next        

important gr\p ( ma/]s aft] ! ,van      
,eycks appe>$4 ,z e>ly z ! fir/ half ( !
 f\rte5? c5tury pa9t+s on clo? 7 execut$
 at ,t\rnai1 foll[$ by :at 0 t]m$ flat  
pa9t+ = panels4 ,ab\t #adjf ! fir/ ( !  
great arti/s ^: names h come d[n to u   
settl$ at ,t\rnai4 ,?is 0 ,rob]t ,camp94
 ,he acquir$ ! "r ( citiz5%ip 9 #adaj & 
di$ 9 #addd1 be+ ?us a contempor>y ( !  
,van ,eycks4 ,he is kn[n to h pa9t$ _m  
works1 b until rec5tly none ( ^! _h be5 
def9itely id5tifi$4 ,n[1 ?anks to !     
e>ne/ & pati5t /udy ( ,belgian s*ol>s1  
he seems likely to be giv5 8 rightful   
place z "o ( ! greate/ ( ! e>ly ,flemi% 
ma/]s--aft] hav+ be5 completely =gott5 =
 ne>ly five hundr$ ye>s6 ,8 mo/         
important "w is an alt>piece 9 !        
possession ( ! ,mrode family at         
,brussels1 :ile ! ,frank=t ,museum & !  
,prado at ,madrid conta9 "s f9e examples
 ( 8 skill4  ,x is kn[n t ,rob]t ,camp9 
0 ! ma/] ( two o!r ,t\rnai arti/s1      
,rogi] ,van d] ,weyd5 & ,jacques ,d>et1 
( :om ! =m] soon f> surpass$ 8 tea*] 9  

r5[n4 ,d>et ent]$ ! ateli] ( ,rob]t     
,camp9 9 #adah1 :5 a lad ( f\rte51      
obta9$ ! title ( appr5tice 9 #adbg1 &   
became a memb] ( ! ,guild ( ,/4 ,luke 9 
#adcb4 ,"o ( 8 pictures1 a panel %[+ !  
,nativity1 0 9 ! collection ( ! late    
,mr4 ,j4 ,pi]pont ,morgan4 ,van d]      
,weyd51 ^: ,walloon "n 0 ,rog] de la    
,pa/ure1 became "o ( ,camp9's appr5tices
 9 #adbg--! same date z ,d>et--& 0      
admitt$ to ! guild ( ! pa9t]s at ,t\rnai
 9 #adcb4 ,he sp5t mu* ( 8 "t at        
,brussels1 h[ev]1 & is sometimes        
consid]$ z belong+ to t city r ?an      
,t\rnai4 ,a ,desc5t f ! ,cross n[ at !  
,escorial is 8 mo/ fam\s picture4 ,x 0  
pa9t$ = ! ,ar*]s' ,company at ,l\va9 & a
 copy ( x1 made by ! ma/] himself1 0    
hung 9 ! ,*ur* ( ,/4 ,pi]re 9 t city4   
,ab\t #adcj ,van d] ,weyd5 0 commission$
 to pa9t f\r l>ge panels = ! ,hall (    
,ju/ice 9 ! new ,hotel de ,ville at     
,brussels4 ,two ( ^! %[$ ,trajan1 ! ,j  
,emp]or1 & ! o!r two depict$ ! ,ju/ice (
 ,h]k5bald1 & = m ?an two c5turies !    

s]ies 0 reg>d$ z ! f9e/ gr\p ( pa9t+s 9 
! ,l[ ,c\ntries4 ,!y 7 de/roy$ at !     
bomb>dm5t ( ,brussels 9 #afie1 b        
tape/ries copi$ f ! orig9als /ill exi/ 9
 ! ,museum at ,b]ne1 hav+ be5 captur$ by
 ! ,swiss :5 ,*>les ! ,bold 0 defeat$ at
 ,granson4  ,9 #addc ! arti/ began :at 9
 ! judgm5t ( ! art critics 0 8 mo/      
important "w1 an alt>piece repres5t+ ,! 
,la/ ,judgm5t = ! *apel ( a hospital at 
,beaune1 ne> ,dijon 9 ,burgundy1 :]e x  
/ill rema9s4 ,! museum at ,antw]p       
conta9s a tripty* ( ! ,sev5 ,sacram5ts  
by ?is ma/]1 %[+ ! int]ior ( a ca!dral  
sugge/ive ( t ( ,t\rnai--&1 9 fact1 x 0 
= ! ,bi%op ( ,t\rnai t x 0 orig9ally    
pa9t$4 ,ne>ly e important art gall]y 9  
,europe conta9s "o or m works by ,van d]
 ,weyd51 :o n only 0 v indu/ri\s1       
receiv+ num]\s ord]s f ! great m5 ( 8   
day1 b =tunate 9 hav+ mo/ ( 8 ma/]pieces
 pres]v$ f ! de/ruction t ov]took s mu* 
( ! "w ( ! e>ly ,flemi% arti/s4  ,! =m] 
,clo? ,hall ( ,t\rnai1 erect$ 9 #afaj1 0
 completely & v successfully re/or$ 9   

#ahhd1 & is n[ us$ to h\se an admirable 
little collection ( pa9t+s & a museum ( 
antiquities4 ,! pa9t+s are1 = ! mo/ "p1 
! "w ( ,t\rnai arti/s1 & mo/ ( its ?ree 
hundr$ & eighty titles are ( local r ?an
 int]national int]e/4 ,!re are sev]al   
works1 h[ev]1 ( ! highe/ rank1 & !      
museum z a :ole s]ves admirably to      
illu/rate ! fact t ! traditions &       
inspiration ( ! fir/ great ma/]s (      
,flemi% pa9t+1 ^: "w has made ! "n (    
,t\rnai illu/ri\s = all "t1 h nev] be5  
:olly =gott5 9 _! native city4 ,to be   
sure1 !re is no?+ to repres5t ,rob]t    
,camp9 or ,jacques ,d>et1 nor _h !      
c>etak] ev] he>d ( ei!r ( !m--a fact    
h>dly to be wond]$ at1 s9ce ! works ( ! 
=m] h n yet be5 fully id5tifi$ by !     
critics4 ,van d] ,weyd5 is cr$it$ ) a   
,desc5t f ! ,cross 9 ! museum catalogue1
 b _m critics hold ?is to be a copy ( a 
lo/ "w by ,hugo ,van d] ,goes4 ,^? 9    
*>ge ( ! museum h wisely includ$ "s     
excell5t photographs ( ! m fam\s works  
by ,van d] ,weyd5 9 ! lead+ ,european   

gall]ies--a plan t might well be foll[$ 
) respect to ! o!r notable works by     
,t\rnaisian arti/s4 ,! ma/]piece ( !    
collection is ! well kn[n ,la/ ,hon\rs  
to ,c\nts ,egmont & ,horn1 by ,l\is     
,gallait1 ! greate/ ( ,t\rnai's mod]n   
arti/s1 ^: /atue /&s 9 ! little p>k be=e
 ! railway /ation4 ,a replica ( ?is f9e 
b gruesome "w 0 pa9t$ by ! arti/ = !    
,antw]p museum4 ,! ,t\rnai museum       
conta9s ne>ly a doz5 o!r works bequea!d 
to ! city by ?is pa9t]1 includ+ sev]al  
admirable portraits--a bran* 9 :i* he 0 
especially skilful4 ,! p[]ful           
,abdication ( ,*>les ,v by ?is ma/]     
hangs 9 ! ,brussels museum1 & 8 notable 
,la/ ,mom5ts ( ! ,comte d',egmont 9 !   
museum ( ,b]l94  ,illu/ration3 ,a       
,,tripty* ,,( ,,! ,,sev5 ,,sacram5ts    
,,by ,,rogi] ,,van ,,d] ,,weyd54        
,equally f9e 9 a v diff]5t way1 b less  
widely kn[n1 is a spirit$ pa9t+ by a    
comp>atively unkn[n arti/1 ,van         
,sev]donck1 repres5t+ ! ,pr9cess (      
,ep9oy valiantly def5d+ a brea* 9 !     

walls dur+ ! siege ( ,t\rnai 9 #aeha4   
,we 7 unable to obta9 a photograph ( ?is
 admirable "w z x is s hung t x is      
difficult to get a good light ^u x4 ,a  
f9e portrait ( ,/4 ,donatian is         
attribut$ 9 ! catalogue to ,jan ,gossa]t
 or ,mabuse 7f ,maubeuge :]e he 0 born74
 ,by "s critics x is assign$ to         
,bellegambe1 :o 0 born at ,d\ai 9 ,fr5* 
,fl&]s & 0 a contempor>y ( ,gossa]t4 ,! 
museum also conta9s works by ,h5nebicq1 
:o pa9t$ ! hi/orical picture ( ,philip  
,augu/us grant+ a *>t] to ! city (      
,t\rnai 9 ! ,hotel de ,ville2 ,h5nequ91 
! tea*] ( ,gallait2 ,/alla]t1 ^: ,dea? (
 ,dido is 9 ! museum ( ,brussels1 &     
sev]al o!r natives ( ,t\rnai :o are less
 well kn[n4 ,f ,rob]t ,camp91 :o settl$ 
at ,t\rnai ab\t #adjf & di$ 9 #addd1 to 
,l\is ,gallait1 ^: ?ree great ma/]pieces
 7 pa9t$ betwe5 #ahdj & #ahej1 & to     
,/alla]t & ,h5nebicq1 :o laid aside _!  
bru%es 9 ! fir/ decade ( ! pres5t       
c5tury1 !re ext5ds a p]iod ( five hundr$
 ye>s dur+ :i* ! noble art ( pa9t+ has  

be5 practis$ & taught at ,t\rnai by m5 (
 comm&+ g5ius--a record 9 ! hi/ory ( art
 t no t[n 9 ! _w ( simil> size has ev]  
equall$4  ,x is wor?y ( rem>k1 9 pass+1 
t ! art ( sculpture :i* 0 practis$ at   
,t\rnai ) su* notable success z e>ly z !
 ?irte5? c5tury1 & /eadily !reaft] =    
sev]al hundr$ ye>s1 has n surviv$ to !  
pres5t day4 ,!re are no mod]n sculptors 
9 ! li/ ( ,t\rnaisian arti/s1 b !       
ca!dral is a v]itable museum ( ! /one   
c>v+s ( ! pa/4 ,! m5 ( ! *isel1 moreov]1
 mu/ be cr$it$ ) giv+ "s ( ! inspiration
 t made ! "w ( ! e>ly arti/s ( ! bru% s 
notable4 ,van d] ,weyd51 p>ticul>ly1 %[s
 ! influ5ce ( sculpture & a m>k$        
appreciation ( its effects 9 ! framework
 & backgr\nds ( _m ( 8 pictures4        
,moreov]1 = sev]al c5turies ! sculptors 
( ,t\rnai enjoy$ a r5[n t ext5d$ ?r\gh\t
 ,fl&]s & nor!rn ,france4 ,9 ! *ur*es ( 
,t\rnai & ( _m o!r cities examples ( _! 
"w c be se5 t %[ a cont9u\s record (    
a*ievem5t f ! twelf? to ! sixte5?       
c5turies4  ,closely alli$ to ! c>v]s (  

/one 7 ^? :o work$ 9 metals & ( ^!      
,t\rnai _h its full %>e4 ,a /reet ( !   
,goldsmi?s 7rue des ,orfvres7 ne> !     
,gr&e ,place indicates ! importance ( t 
indu/ry 9 anci5t times4 ,! be/ example (
 ?is bran* ( ,t\rnaisian art is to be   
f\nd 9 ! treasury ( ! ca!dral4 ,?is is !
 sup]b ,*asse1 or ,reliqu>y ( ,/4       
,eleu!reus1 :i* is consid]$ to be "o ( !
 f9e/ products ( ! goldsmi?'s art dur+ !
 ,middle ,ages4 ,:ile ! "n ( ! mak] (   
?is ma/]piece is unkn[n1 x is           
unque/ionably ( ,t\rnaisian orig9 & 0   
complet$ 9 #abdg4 ,built 9 ! =m ( a     
s>cophagus1 & made ( silv]1 heavily     
gild$1 x is almo/ bewild]+ 9 ! ri*ness &
 intricacy ( its decorations &          
filigrees4 ,at "o end is a l>ge seat$   
figure ( ,*ri/1 at ! o!r ( ,/4          
,eleu!reus1 :ile ! sides conta9 figures 
( ! ,virg9 & ! ,apo/les4 ,ar\nd1 above &
 bel[ ^! *ief figures ! arti/ has plac$ 
a labyr9? ( m9or ones1 ( *ur*es &       
l&scapes1 ( columns1 ar*es &            
ar*itectural embelli%m5ts1 all c>v$ ) a 

ri*ness ( design t _c be adequately     
describ$4 ,/ill old]1 = x dates f #abje1
 is ! ,*asse de ,notre ,dame1 ano!r     
treasure ( ! ca!dral4 ,?is 0 made by    
,nicolas de ,v]dun1 a citiz5 ( ,t\rnai1 
& is ( wood1 pa9t$ & adorn$ ) curi\s    
bas-reliefs repres5t+ incid5ts f ! ,new 
,te/am5t4 ,a ?ird *asse1 :i* on acc\nt (
 its great value is kept "u lock & key 9
 ! treasury1 l t ( ,/4 ,eleu!reus1 is   
call$ ! ,*asse des ,damoiseaux4 ,x is   
made ( silv] & be>s 9 relief1 &         
enamell$1 ! arms ( "s ( ! patrician     
families ( ! city 9 ! ?irte5? & f\rte5? 
c5turies1 :5 ! ,confr]ie des ,damoiseaux
 held _m brilliant t\rnam5ts 9 ,t\rnai &
 o!r cities4 ,?is *asse1 ! keep] told u1
 0 n made at ,t\rnai1 b at ,bruges4     
,al?\gh v beautiful1 x is n consid]$ s  
notable a "w ( art z its companion4     
,dur+ ! f\rte5? & fifte5? c5turies      
,t\rnai rivall$ ,d9ant z a produc] ( f9e
 copp] & brassw>e1 & 9 ?is indu/ry !    
arti/ic in/9cts ( its citiz5s soon l$ !m
 to produce pieces ( rem>kable          

di/9ction4 ,"o ( ! f9e/ ( ^! is !       
baptismal font 9 ! *ur* ( ,notre ,dame  
at ,hal1 made 9 #addf4 ,! artisans (    
,t\rnai turn$ out a prodigi\s numb] (   
f9e products ( ! copp]-smi?'s art dur+ !
 two c5turies m5tion$--lamps1 c&le/icks1
 *&eli]s1 fun]al monum5ts1 crucifixes & 
o!r religi\s articles2 &1 9 fact1 x 0 n 
until ! eighte5? c5tury t ?is indu/ry   
decl9$1 only to give place to !         
manufacture ( gild$ bronze w>e4  ,!     
ca!dral & ! museum ( antiquities conta9 
"s *oice examples ( ano!r great         
,t\rnaisian art indu/ry ( ! ,middle     
,ages--! manufacture ( ri* tape/ries4   
,dur+ ! f\rte5? c5tury ! r5[n ( !       
products ( ,t\rnai 9 ?is field 0 already
 consid]able1 & betwe5 #addj & #adhj its
 artisans surpass$ ev5 ^? ( ,arras4 ,9  
ri*ness ( col\r+1 div]sity &            
sprightl9ess ( subjects1 beauty ( design
 & workman%ip1 ! tape/ries ( ,t\rnai    
rank among ! f9e/ art productions ( !   
,middle ,ages4 ,9 #adgg1 :5 ,l\is ,,xi  
seiz$ ,arras & disp]s$ its workm51 _m ( 

!m fl$ to ,t\rnai1 ,aud5a]de &          
,brussels1 e/abli%+ ! indu/ry 9 ^?      
cities4 ,t\rnai1 :]e x _h already made  
great progress1 0 ! fir/ to b5efit by   
?is emigration & = a "t became ! lead+  
tape/ry-mak+ c5tre 9 ,europe4 ,x 0 !    
s*ool ( ,t\rnai t 0 ! true =]unn] ( !   
/ill m fam\s tape/ry weav]s ( ,brussels 
9 depict+ hi/orical & my?ological sc5es 
( ! utmo/ vivacity & ri*ness1 :ile !    
ateli]s ( ,aud5a]de specialis$ m l>gely 
9 quiet] pa/oral sc5es & l&scapes4      
,philip ! ,good1 ! mo/ fa/idi\s         
connoisseur ( 8 age1 ord]$ sev]al       
tape/ries at ,t\rnai1 includ+ ! hi/ory (
 ,gideon 9 eight panels to decorate !   
,hall ( ! ,ord] ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece4 ,9 !
 ca!dral ! mo/ notable ( ! ,t\rnai      
tape/ries illu/rates vividly ! /ory (   
,joseph1 :ile "o ( ! be/ 9 ! museum     
depicts ! hi/ory ( ,abraham--! angels   
ann\nc+ ! bir? ( ,isaac4 ,! bord] ( a   
,t\rnai tape/ry usually be>s ! m>k ( !  
ateli]s ( t city1 a ca/le t[]1 :i* is   
pla9ly to be se5 on ! "o la/ m5tion$4 ,!

 ca!dral also possesses a rem>kable     
tape/ry ( ,arras1 made by ,pi]rot ,fr 9 
#adjb1 & depict+ incid5ts connect$ ) !  
lives ( ,/4 ,piat & ,/4 ,eleu!reus & !  
plague at ,t\rnai4 ,?is ma/]piece       
orig9ally hung above ! /alls 9 ! *oir1 &
 m ?an half ( x has be5 de/roy$ at "o "t
 or ano!r4 ,! rema9d] has be5 plac$ 9 a 
cont9u\s panel1 l a panorama1 ar\nd a   
semi-circul> *apel back ( ! treasury1 & 
con/itutes "o ( ! mo/ curi\s relics ( ! 
m$ival art to be se5 9 ,europe4 ,accord+
 to "s au?orities ! designs = ?is "w 7  
drawn by "o ( ! arti/s ( ! ,t\rnai s*ool
 ( pa9t]s f :i* ,van d] ,weyd5          
subsequ5tly receiv$ 8 in/ruction4 ,at   
all ev5ts ! sc5es are extremely nave1 & 
! arti/ has ins]t$ sundry little devils 
:o are giv+ expression to _! contempt ( 
! v>i\s religi\s c]emonies depict$ 9 "s 
( ! sections 9 a mann] t1 to say ! lea/1
 is mo/ unconv5tional4  ,! w>s & tr\bles
 ( ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies v ne>ly
 ext+ui%$ ! art indu/ries ( ,t\rnai1 !  
numb] ( ma/]-weav]s ( tape/ries decl9+ f

 two hundr$ & f\rte5 betwe5 #aech &     
#aeec to =ty 9 #afic1 & tw5ty-n9e 9     
#agch4 ,x 0 only a few ye>s aft] ! la/  
date1 h[ev]1 :5 a new art indu/ry became
 e/abli%$ 9 ! city4 ,9 #agea a native ( 
,lille1 nam$ ,franois ,pt]9k1 began !   
manufacture at ,t\rnai ( f9e porcela9s4 
,d9n] sets elaborately decorat$ &       
da9tily =m$1 vases1 /atues & /atuettes (
 biscuit equal to ! f9e/ products (     
,svres1 ,saxony or ,engl&1 7 turn$ out 9
 consid]able quantities = m ?an a       
c5tury1 & ! porcela9s ( ,t\rnai became s
 r5[n$ t pr9ces vi$ ) "o ano!r to secure
 ^! works ( art4 ,x is /ill possible = !
 collector to secure "s ( ^! f9e        
products1 ! tradem>ks be+ a rude ca/le  
t[] or two cross$ swords ) t9y crosses  
at _! int]sect+ angles4 ,9 ! f9e/       
tablew>e ^! are usually 9 gold1 b r$ or 
"s o!r col\r %\ld n be despis$1 z !     
g5u9e ,t\rnai w>e is becom+ r>e &       
already br+s high prices4 ,^! m>ks1 x   
%\ld be add$1 h be5 imitat$1 & ! amateur
 w d well to consult exp]t advice be=e  

pur*as+4  ,/ill ano!r notewor?y art     
indu/ry ( ,t\rnai m]its at lea/ a ^w 9  
pass+4 ,f ! v e>lie/ p]iod aft] ! art ( 
mak+ /a9$ or pa9t$ glass 0 inv5t$ !     
ateli]s ( ! ,ville d',art h excell$ 9   
?is f9e bran* ( h&icraft4 ,dur+ !       
fifte5? c5tury ,t\rnaisian arti/s made !
 sev5 /a9$ glass w9d[s 9 ! transept ( ! 
ca!dral t depict 9 gl[+ col\rs ! hi/ory 
( ! conte/ betwe5 ,*ild]ic & ,sigeb]t & 
! donations & privileges grant$ to !    
bi%op & ! ca!dral by ,*ilp]ic4 ,n only  
are ^! sc5es ( ! utmo/ int]e/           
hi/orically1 b ! /ud5t ( co/umes &      
cu/oms dur+ ! ,middle ,ages & ! /ud5t ( 
e>ly ,flemi% art w bo? f9d 9 !m abundant
 mat]ial = /udy4 ,x has already be5 said
 t ! ca!dral ( ,t\rnai is 9 itself a    
hi/ory ( ,flemi% ar*itecture cov]+ a    
p]iod ( well-nigh a ?\s& ye>s4 ,x is    
also a v]itable museum ( ,flemi% art1 & 
especially ( ,t\rnaisian art1 9 almo/   
all ( its _m bran*es4  ,9 ! eighte5?    
c5tury ! app>5tly inext+ui%able arti/ic 
_s ( ,t\rnai f\nd expression 9 !        

production ( c>pets t recall$ ! be/     
p]iod ( its tape/ry weav]s4 ,! c>pet 9 !
 cab9et ( ,napoleon at ,fonta9ebleau & !
 celebrat$ c>pet ( ! ,legion ( ,hon\r1  
:i* 0 %[n 9 ! ,fr5* pavilion at ! rec5t 
exposition at ,tur91 7 made at ,t\rnai  
dur+ ?is p]iod4 ,at ! same epo* !       
goldsmi?s & copp]smi?s1 ^: activities _h
 nev] entirely ceas$ dur+ ! c5turies (  
tr\ble1 began once m to turn out _!     
arti/ic products 9 consid]able          
quantities1 nor h ^! ateli]s entirely   
ceas$ op]ations at ,t\rnai to ?is day4  
,truly ! "n ,ville d',art has be5 fairly
 won & kept by ?is little city1 if sev5 
c5turies ( almo/ un9t]rupt$ arti/ic     
endeav\r & a*ievem5t c\nt = any?+6  ,x  
is a some:at rem>kable feature ( mod]n  
,belgium1 h[ev]1 t :ile its cities ab\nd
 9 beautiful & arti/ic ?+s1 ! common    
p--bo? ! work+ classes & ! b\rgeoisie1  
or fairly prosp]\s middle-class ( small 
m]*ants & manufactur]s--seem to h v     
little int]e/ 9 pictures or works ( art1
 & little or no desire to acquire !m4 ,!

 av]age ,belgian home is utt]ly b>e (   
ornam5t1 save p]haps a crucifix or a    
religi\s image or *romo--if ^! c be t]m$
 ornam5tal4 ,reproductions ( ! f9e      
ma/]pieces ( pa9t+ & /atu>y 9 :i* ?is   
little c\ntry is s ri* are incr$ibly    
sc>ce & difficult to procure--save only 
! v fam\s pictures1 ( :i* copies h be5  
made to sell to t\ri/s 9 ! l>g] cities4 
,ev5 ^! ! native ,belgian app>5tly nev] 
buys1 & ! art /ores c>ry v few col\r$   
pr9ts ( mod]ate price su* z are to be   
se5 ev]y:]e 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,9 fact1 
( ^? we saw a consid]able proportion 7 (
 ,am]ican manufacture4 ,( c\rse ^!      
rem>ks d n allude to ! /ores h&l+       
orig9al pa9t+s by anci5t & mod]n ma/]s1 
co/ly wat]-col\rs & et*+s4 ,^! are      
pur*as$ 9 ,belgium1 z ev]y:]e else1 by !
 weal?y class1 ^: homes are z ri* &     
arti/ic z any 9 ! _w4 ,x is ! abs5ce (  
int]e/ by ! two classes fir/ m5tion$ t  
seems to me s rem>kable 9 a c\ntry t =  
c5turies has be5 passionately devot$ to 
art 9 all its manife/ations1 &1 = its   

population & area1 is )\t d\bt ! _w's   
l>ge/ produc] ( beautiful ?+s4  ,on !   
o!r h&1 ! ,belgian ( ev5 ! humble/      
social /&+ is inv>iably fond ( fl[]s4 ,9
 ! cities e woman on h] way to or f     
m>ket buys a b\quet = ! table1 :ile 9 ! 
c\ntry !re is no g>d5 )\t its little    
fl[]-b$1 or fl[]-bord]$ pa?s1 or rambl+ 
rosebu%es climb+ up ! high brick g>d5   
wall or ar*+ ov] ! entrance4 ,?is %[s an
 int5se & inborn love ( ! beautiful4 ,:y
 is x1 !n1 t m5 & wom5 ^: daily lives   
are sp5t 9 creat+ beautiful ?+s--r>e    
lace1 f9e wood-c>v+s1 ri* brass or copp]
 w>e--are cont5t ) homes t are z b>e (  
ornam5t z any prison cell8     ,,*apt]  
,,xiv  ,,! ,,fall ,,( ,,*>les ,,!       
,,bold--,,meml+ ,,at ,,bruges   ,!re are
 few c>e]s 9 hi/ory m fasc9at+1 m       
spectacul>1 m dramatic1 ?an t ( ! la/   
,duke ( ,burgundy :o rul$ ov]           
,fl&]s--,*>les ! ,bold4 ,heir to        
dom9ions t includ$ all ( :at is n[      
,belgium & ,holl&1 ne>ly a ?ird (       
,france1 & portions ( :at is n[ ,g]many1

 ,*>les 0 by f> ! mo/ p[]ful ( ! feudal 
lords ( 8 day1 surpass+ ! ,k+ ( ,france1
 & ev5 ! ,emp]or 9 ! spl5d\r & weal? ( 8
 c\rt & 9 ! numb] ( feudal pr9ces &     
knights :om he c\ld summon to 8 /&>d4   
,he n only _h dreams ( becom+ a k+      
himself1 b 01 on "o occasion1 (f]$ a    
cr[n--! ,emp]or ,fr$]ick ,,iii propos+  
to make him ,k+ ( ,brabant4 ,?is he     
refus$--a s]i\s error1 = he c\ld easily 
h ext5d$ 8 royal title1 once legally    
acquir$1 ov] ! re/ ( 8 dom9ions4  ,9 all
 ! pomp & pageantry ( p[]1 h[ev]1 ,*>les
 0 e in* a k+--magnific5t 9 8           
hospitality1 exce$+ly c]emoni\s &       
punctili\s 9 c\rt etiquette1 & fond (   
%[+ 8 va/ p[] on e occasion4 ,on ! o!r  
h&1 he 0 pr(\ndly ignorant ( ! fact t ! 
real s\rce ( 8 weal? & /r5g? 0 9 ! great
 indu/rial communes ( ,fl&]s1 ,brabant &
 ,lige1 & ! cruelty ) :i* he de/roy$ !  
cities ( ,lige & ,d9ant co/ him !       
affection & good w ( all 8 p4 ,8 great  
antagoni/ 0 ,l\is ,,xi ( ,france--also  
"o ( ! mo/ picturesque figures 9        

hi/ory--b ! exact anti!sis ( ,*>les 9   
almo/ e respect4 ,:ile ,*>les nev]      
receiv$ a delegation unless seat$ on a  
?rone1 ! l(t9ess & gr&eur ( :i* fill$ e 
eye1 ,l\is dress$ pla9ly--(t5 we>+ !    
grey cloak ( a pilgrim1 & almo/         
inv>iably a pilgrim's hat1 ) a lead5    
image ( "s sa9t 9 ! hat-b&4 ,on "o      
occasion1 :5 he paid a visit to 8       
subjects 9 ,norm&y1 rid+ 9 company ) !  
gorge\s ,duke ( ,burgundy1 ! peasants   
exclaim$1 ,is t a ,k+ ( ,france8 ,:y1 ! 
:ole outfit1 man & horse1 is n wor?     
tw5ty francs6  ,*>les1 l 8 fa!r1 held 8 
ducal c\rt :]ev] he might happ5 to      
be--bo? pr9ces (t5 c>ry+ a l5g?y tra9 ( 
baggage1 includ+ ev5 furniture &        
tape/ries1 f "o ca/le to ano!r4 ,bruges1
 h[ev]1 is id5tifi$ ) "s ( ! mo/        
important ev5ts ( 8 c>e]1 & he held 8   
c\rt !re mu* (t5] ?an at ! ance/ral     
capital ( ,burgundy1 ,dijon4 ,dur+ ! la/
 ye>s ( ! reign ( 8 fa!r1 ,philip !     
,good1 ,*>les act$ z ,reg5t1 & x 0 dur+ 
?is p]iod ( 8 rule t he a/oni%$ &       

t]rifi$ ,europe by ! f]ocity ) :i* he   
av5g$ an insult to 8 p>5ts' hon\r by    
utt]ly de/roy+ ! prosp]\s city ( ,d9ant 
& slaught]+ mo/ ( its male inhabitants4 
,on 8 accession to ! ducal ?rone1 h[ev]1
 ! great communes ( ,gh5t1 ,bruges1     
,mal9es & ,brussels 7 able to extort f  
_! new ,duke all ( ! privileges t 8 fa!r
 _h tak5 away dur+ 8 long reign4 ,*>les 
grant$ ^! ) fury 9 8 he>t1 v[+ op5ly t  
be=e long he w\ld humble ^! presumptu\s 
burgh]s4 ,=tunately = ! lib]ties ( !    
,flemi% t[ns1 _! ,duke's att5tions 7    
spe$ily call$ else:]e & he f\nd no      
opportunity to c>ry out 8 ?reats4       
,fom5t$ by ! emiss>ies ( ,l\is ,,xi1 !  
turbul5t citiz5s ( ,lige--already a l>ge
 & prosp]\s manufactur+ t[n1 z advanc$ 9
 ! metallurgical arts z ! ,flemi% cities
 7 9 ! textile indu/ries--rose 9        
insurrection aga9/ _! ,bi%op-,pr9ce1 an 
ally ( ,*>les4 ,) an army ( "o hundr$   
?\s& feudal levies ,*>les quickly       
suppress$ ?is revolt4 ,! foll[+ ye>     
,l\is v5tur$ to place himself 9 ,*>les' 

p[] by pay+ him a visit at 8 p[]ful     
ca/le ( ,pronne4 ,?is fam\s hi/orical   
incid5t is brilliantly describ$ by ,sir 
,walt] ,scott 9 ,qu5t9 ,durw>d4 ,to !   
k+'s al>m & v extreme p]sonal dang]1 ! p
 ( ,lige took ! mom5t ( ?is visit to    
rise aga94 ,*>les 0 furi\s1 &1 n unju/ly
 consid]+ ,l\is to be ! au?or ( ?is     
attack on 8 au?ority1 _h t mon>* lock$  
up 9 a room 9 ! ca/le4 ,nor 0 he placat$
 until ,l\is sign$ a treaty /ill fur!r  
ext5d+ ! p[] ( ! ,dukes ( ,burgundy 9   
,france1 & agre$ to jo9 ,*>les 9 !      
exp$ition to puni% 8 unruly subjects4   
,?is "t ! city aft] be+ captur$ 0 giv5  
ov] to ! half-savage ,burgundian soldi]y
 to be sack$1 "s =ty ?\s& ( its         
inhabitants p]i%+4  ,return+ to ,fl&]s1 
,*>les bitt]ly d5\nc$ ! cauti\s policy (
 ! burgh]s 9 refus+ to pay tax levies = 
8 armies unless !y knew h[ ! money 0 to 
be sp5t4 ,heavy & h>d ,flemi% heads t y 
are1 he cri$ to a delegation f ,gh5t1 y 
always rema9 fix$ 9 y\r bad op9ions1 b  
"k t o!rs are z wise z y4 ,y ,flem+s1 ) 

y\r h>d heads1 h always ei!r despis$ or 
hat$ y\r pr9ces4 ,i pref] be+ hat$ to   
be+ despis$4 ,take c>e to attempt no?+  
aga9/ my highness & lord%ip1 = ,i am    
p[]ful en\gh to resi/ y4 ,x w\ld be !   
/ory ( ! iron & ! e>!n pots4  ,pres5tly 
,l\is1 repudiat+ ! rec5t treaty z be+   
extort$ by =ce1 invad$ ,*>les' dom9ions 
& captur$ sev]al cities on ! ,somme4    
,*>les s\ght to retake !m & 0 repuls$   
bo? at ,ami5s & ,beauvais1 ! def5d]s at 
! latt] place be+ urg$ to /rong]        
resi/ance by ,jeanne ,ha*ette1 "o ( !   
h]oic figures ( ,fr5* hi/ory4 ,*>les n[ 
turn$ 8 att5tion to ! ,g]man side ( 8   
dom9ions1 & "h also ! implacable enmity 
( ,l\is /irr$ up enemies = him 9 e      
direction4 ,9 ,alsace ! p rose 9 revolt 
& slew ! cruel gov]nor ,*>les _h set ov]
 !m1 :ile ! ,swiss defeat$ ! ,m>%al (   
,burgundy4 ,*>les set =? to re-e/abli% 8
 au?ority ) an army ( ?irty ?\s& m51 !  
fl[] ( 8 feudal levies4 ,! ,swiss1      
al>m$1 su$ = peace1 assur+ ! p[]ful     
,duke t !re 0 m gold 9 ! spurs & bridles

 ( 8 horsem5 ?an c\ld be f\nd 9 all (   
,switz]l&4  ,*>les1 h[ev]1 0 b5t on     
puni%+ ^! impud5t m\nta9e]s & ord]$ !   
invasion ( _! c\ntry4 ,! def5d]s ( !    
little =tress ( ,granson surr5d]$ on !  
approa* ( 8 army1 b 9 flagrant violation
 ( ! t]ms he _h j grant$ ! ,duke (      
,burgundy ord]$ ! entire g>rison to be  
hang$4 ,?is act 0 spe$ily av5g$1 = !    
,swiss a few days lat] utt]ly r\t$ !    
,burgundian =ces j outside ( ,granson4  
,! m\nta9e]s 9 ?is battle advanc$ 9 a   
solid phalanx aga9/ :i* ,*>les' horsem5 
& ar*]s c\ld make no impression4 ,! bl[ 
to ! pride & pre/ige ( ! ,duke 0 f> m   
s]i\s ?an ! loss ( ! engagem5t & !      
scatt]+ ( 8 army4 ,) great difficulty he
 rais$ fre% levies1 ! ,flemi% communes  
grant+ aid only on condition t no fur!r 
subsidies %\ld be dem&$ = six ye>s to   
come4 ,! battle ( ,granson took place   
,m>* #b1 #adgf4 ,by ,june he _h rais$   
ano!r & a l>g] army1 & on ! #bbnd met ! 
,swiss aga9 at ,morat4 ,on review+ 8 ho/
 be=e ! battle1 ,*>les is said to h     

exclaim$1 ,by ,/4 ,george1 we %all n[ h 
v5geance6 b ! v5geance 0 n to be always 
on "o side1 = ! ,swiss1 mak+ _!         
battle-cry ,granson6 ,granson6 9        
remembrance ( _! c\ntrym51 :om ,*>les _h
 trea*]\sly sla91 almo/ annihilat$ 8    
army4 ,! ,swiss %[$ no m]cy & took no   
prison]s1 :ile ! numb] ( kill$ on !     
,burgundian side am\nt$ to eighte5 ?\s&4
 ,*>les escap$ ) 8 life1 accompani$ by a
 small body ( 8 knights4  ,= a "t x     
seem$ z if 8 rage & despair at ^! two   
defeats w\ld cause ! pr\d ,duke to lose 
8 reason1 nor c\ld 8 ?reats or          
entreaties secure m assi/ance f ,fl&]s4 
,he manag$1 h[ev]1 to keep ! field1 & ) 
a small =ce sat d[n to besiege          
,nancy--:i* _h be5 lo/ to him aga9 aft] 
,morat4 ,! t[n held out /ubbornly1 z all
 t[ns did1 n[ t ,*>les' cruelty &       
trea*]y to ^? :o surr5d]$ 7 kn[n1 & !   
,burgundian =ces suff]$ mu* h>d%ip f !  
cold1 = x 0 n[ mid-w9t]4 ,on ,janu>y #e?
 ,*>les gave battle to an advanc+ =ce ( 
,swiss1 0 aga9 cru%$ & ! great] "p ( 8  

little army kill$4 ,aft] ! battle !     
,duke c\ld n be f\nd1 & no man knew :at 
_h become ( him4 ,! foll[+ day a page   
report$ t he _h se5 8 ma/] fall1 & c\ld 
f9d ! place4 ,he l$ ! se>*]s to a little
 pond call$ ! ,etang de ,/4 ,jean4 ,"h1 
by ! bord] ( a little /ream1 !y f\nd a  
doz5 despoil$ bodies1 nak$ & froz5 9 !  
mud & ice4 ,"o by "o !y turn$ ^! ov]4   
,alas1 said ! little page pres5tly1 "h  
is my good ma/]6 ,disfigur$1 ) two      
fe>ful dea? w\nds1 & ) "p ( 8 face eat5 
by wolves1 x 0 inde$ ! body ( ! great   
,duke4  ,ev5 8 enemies did hon\r to !   
dead pr9ce4 ,clo!d 9 a robe ( :ite sat91
 ) a crimson sat9 mantle1 8 body 0 borne
 9 /ate into ! t[n he _h va9ly s\ght to 
conqu]1 & plac$ 9 a velvet b$ "u a      
canopy ( black sat94 ,8 rema9s 7 int]r$ 
9 ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,george at ,nancy1 :]e !y
 rema9$ = m ?an fifty ye>s4 ,! ,emp]or1 
,*>les ,v1 !n _h !m br\ght to ,bruges & 
plac$ 9 ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,donatian4 ,8 son1 
,philip ,,ii1 remov$ !m1 five ye>s lat]1
 to ! wond]ful %r9e 9 ! ,*ur* ( ,notre  

,dame :]e !y rema9$ until ! ,fr5*       
,revolution1 :5 !y 7 scatt]$ to ! w9ds z
 ! bones ( a tyrant4 ,! s>cophagus1     
h[ev]1 ( ! ,duke & 8 g5tle daught]1     
,m>ie1 /ill rema91 z we h se51 & are    
among ! f9e/ 9 exi/5ce4  ,! dea? ( !    
p[]ful ,duke ( ,burgundy made a pr(\nd  
impression ?r\gh\t ,europe1 & /ill      
rema9s1 z ,mr4 ,b\lg] 9 8 admirable     
,hi/ory ( ,belgium says1 "o ( ! trag$ies
 ( all hi/ory4 ,8 d[nfall 0 ma9ly due to
 ! implacable ho/ility ( ,l\is ,,xi1 :om
 he _h once publicly humiliat$ at       
,pronne & affect$ at all times to       
despise4 ,_m ( ! ,swiss & ,g]mans :o    
f\ght aga9/ him 9 8 la/ fatal campaign 7
 hir$ m]c5>ies 9 ! pay ( ! ,k+ (        
,france1 :ile "s ( 8 mo/ tru/$ foll[]s &
 advis]s 7 traitors 9 con/ant           
correspond5ce ) 8 wily & unscrupul\s    
antagoni/4 ,_h ,*>les s\ght to          
conciliate 8 great ,flemi% communes     
in/ead ( intimidate !m 8 reign might h  
be5 prolong$ by _! p[]ful aid1 & 8 dream
 ( e/abli%+ a k+dom ( ,burgundy h be5   

realis$4 ,z x 01 he fail$ signally 9 mo/
 ( 8 und]tak+s1 & ) all 8 fury & va+lory
 & cruelty lo/ 9 t5 ye>s ! huge p[] t 8 
fa!r _h tak5 fifty ye>s to accumulate4  
,m>ie1 ,*>les' only daught]1 0 left by 8
 sudd5 & unexpect$ dea? ! greate/       
heiress 9 ,*ri/5dom1 b also well-nigh   
helpless to rule ov] or ev5 hold h]     
widespread dom9ions4 ,to prev5t ! ,k+ ( 
,france f tak+ advantage ( ?is situation
 h] ,flemi% c\nsellors advis$ h] to     
accept an (f] ( m>riage f ,maximilian1  
son ( ! ,emp]or ,fr$]ick ,,iii1 & 9     
,augu/ ( ! same ye> t saw ! battle (    
,granson !y 7 quietly m>ri$ at ,bruges4 
,?is ev5t made ,fl&]s a /ill small] unit
 ?an be=e 9 a va/ aggregation ( /ates t 
9 ! c\rse ( ev5ts 0 be+ comb9$ "u ! rule
 ( ! ,h\se ( ,hapsburg1 nor did ,m>ie's 
untimely dea?1 less ?an five ye>s lat]1 
9 any wise delay ! process (            
consolidation4  ,bruges1 dur+ ! /ormy   
reign ( ,*>les ! ,bold & ! qu>t] ( a    
c5tury ( anxiety & tr\bles = its burgh]s
 t foll[$ aft] ! battle ( ,nancy1 0     

/eadily los+ its population & mat]ial   
prosp]ity1 &1 at ! same "t1 acquir+ its 
greate/ claim to fame--= x 0 betwe5 !   
ye> #adfb & #adia t ,meml+1 ! =emo/ ( ! 
e>ly ,flemi% pa9t]s1 execut$ ! wond]ful 
s]ies ( ma/]pieces t h come d[n to u4 ,&
 x is to ,bruges t ! /ud5t ( art mu/    
come to see ! fam\s ,flem+ at 8 be/1 =  
!re are m ( 8 important works "h ?an 9  
all ! re/ ( ! _w put toge!r4  ,9 common 
) _m o!rs 9 ! e>ly ,go?ic s*ool v little
 is kn[n ( ! e>ly life ( ,hans ,meml+1 b
 ! rec5t discov]y 9 an old manuscript ( 
a note /at+ t he 0 born at or ne>       
,may5ce gives a mo/ int]e/+ clue bo? z  
to 8 bir?place & ! orig9 ( 8 "n4 ,9 !   
,rh9el& di/rict ne> ,may5ce !re is a    
small tribut>y to ! great riv] call$    
,meml+1 & a village nam$ ,meml+54 ,x is 
probable1 !re=e1 t--j z ! bro!rs ,van   
,eyck call$ !mselves ,hub]t & ,jean (   
,eyck--s _! mo/ fam\s successor call$   
himself ,hans ( ,meml+4 ,= lack (       
au!ntic details reg>d+ 8 e>ly c>e] leg5d
 has suppli$ a mo/ int]e/+ hi/ory--t he 

0 wild & dissolute 9 8 y\ng] days1 0    
w\nd$ :ile fight+ ) ,*>les ! ,bold at   
,nancy1 dragg$ himself to ! door ( !    
hospital ( ,/4 ,jean at ,bruges1 & 0 !re
 t5d]ly nurs$ back to heal? & /r5g?1 9  
gratitude = :i* he pa9t$ = ! k9d si/]s !
 little gall]y ( f9e works t are /ill   
pres]v$ 9 ! orig9al *apt] h\se ( !      
in/itution4 ,all ( ?is romance1 & t ( 8 
love = "o ( ! si/]s1 makes a *>m+       
backgr\nd = _m ( ! acc\nts ( 8 life &   
"w1 b ! pa9/ak+ s*ol>%ip ( mod]n days   
has %[n t at ! "t :5 he 0 suppos$ to be 
ly+ w\nd$ & de/itute at ! hospital he 0 
9 fact v prosp]\s1 hav+ lately b\ght !  
h\se 9 :i* he liv$ & 8 "n appe>+ z "o ( 
! lead+ citiz5s ( :om ! commune _h      
borr[$ money4 ,x is p]haps pleasant] on 
! :ole to ?9k ( ! arti/ z ri* & hon\r$  
in/ead ( at ! o!r extreme ( ! social    
scale--b ! leg5d is1 aft] all1 s mu* m  
romantic t we _c give x up )\t regret4  
,at ,bruges ! fir/ spot = ! admir] (    
,meml+ to visit is1 ( c\rse1 ! hospital 
( ,/4 ,jean1 & at ! hospital ! fir/ ?+  

to see is ! _w-fam\s %r9e ( ,/4 ,ursula4
 ,little x is1 yet beyond price 9 value4
 ,x 0 con/ruct$ z a casket to conta9 !  
relics ( ! ,sa9t & 0 complet$ 9 #adhi4  
,9 design x is a m9iature ,go?ic *apel  
two feet t5 in*es high & ?ree feet long1
 ) ?ree little panels on ea* side :i*   
conta9 ,meml+'s fam\s pictures sett+ =? 
! life & m>tyrdom ( ! ,sa9t & ! elev5   
?\s& o!r virg9s :o %>$ h] fate4 ,! /ory 
( ! fam\s pilgrimage to ,rome & its     
melan*oly end+ at ,cologne has be5 told 
s (t5 t x ne$ n be repeat$ "h4 ,ask "o (
 ! si/]s to tell x to y 9 h] *>m+ brok5 
,fr5*--= !y are ,flemi%1 ^! sweet-fac$  
si/]s1 &1 z a rule1 und]/& nei!r ,fr5*  
nor ,engli%4  ,illu/ration3 ,,%r9e ,,(  
,,/4 ,,ursula1 ,,hospital ,,( ,,/4      
,,jean1 ,,bruges4  ,?is fact is said to 
h s]v$ !m 9 good /ead on ! t]rible day  
:5 ! b&it-soldi]y ( ! ,fr5* ,republic   
clam\r$ at ! doors ( ! hospital 9 #adid4
 ,! %r9e6 ! %r9e6 !y cri$1 give u !     
%r9e6 7,la *sse1 la *sse1 donnez n\s la 
*sse67 ,! nuns1 :o _h nev] he>d x call$ 

by t "n1 b knew x only by its ,flemi% "n
 ( ,ryve1 repli$ t !y did n possess su* 
a ?+ z a *sse1 & _! voices & expressions
 s cle>ly %[$ _! tru?fulness & innoc5ce 
( any deceit t ! rabble ( soldi]s w5t   
away & ! %r9e 0 sav$4 ,e>ly 9 ! n9ete5? 
c5tury ! ,"m ,sup]ior refus$ a mo/      
tempt+ (f] to pur*ase ! %r9e1 reply+1   
,we are poor1 b ! greate/ ri*es 9 ! _w  
w\ld n tempt u to "p ) x4  ,:ile !      
pa9t+s on ! %r9e are ! mo/ fam\s (      
,meml+'s works1 !y are n reg>d$ by !    
critics z be+ 8 be/4 ,z ,mr4 ,rooses    
expresses x1 ,! arti/ seems to h be5    
less int5t on p]fection ( detail = ea*  
figure ?an on ! m>vell\s poly*romy ( !  
:ole4 ,! hospital ( ,/4 ,jean possesses 
?ree ( ! ma/]'s greate/ works--two      
tripty*s entitl$ ,! ,m>riage ( ,/4      
,ca!r9e & ,! ,adoration ( ! ,magi1 & !  
dipty* repres5t+ ! ,madonna & ,m>t9 ,van
 ,nieuw5hove4 ,! museum at ,bruges      
conta9s /ill ano!r ma/]piece1 a picture 
%[+ 9 ! c5tre ,/4 ,*ri/oph]1 ,/4 ,maurus
 & ,/4 ,giles--! fir/ be>+ ! ,infant    

,*ri/ ^u 8 %\ld]s--:ile ! two %utt]s    
conta9 ! usual portraits ( ! donors4 ,"o
 ( ,meml+'s mo/ important works 0 a     
picture ( ,! ,la/ ,judgm5t :i* 0 pa9t$ =
 an ,italian1 ,jacopo ,tani1 & plac$ on 
bo>d %ip to be s5t to ,flor5ce by sea4  
,! %ip 0 captur$ by private]s 9 !       
,engli% ,*annel1 & z its own]s 7 citiz5s
 ( ,dantzig x 0 pres5t$ by !m to ! ,*ur*
 ( ,our ,lady 9 t city1 :]e x /ill      
rema9s4 ,!re are sev]al admirable works 
by ?is ma/] at ! museums ( ,brussels &  
,antw]p1 :ile o!rs are scatt]$ ?r\gh\t  
,europe1 & "o p>ticul>ly f9e example ( 8
 art 0 br\ght to ,am]ica by ! late      
,b5jam9 ,altman & n[ hangs 9 ! ,altman  
collection at ! ,metropolitan ,museum at
 ,new ,york4  ,:ile ! *ief int]e/ to !  
visitor at ! hospital ( ,/4 ,jean is !  
rem>kable collection ( works by ,meml+1 
! old build+s !mselves m]it m ?an a     
casual glance4 ,"s ( !m date f ! twelf? 
c5tury1 & ! view look+ back at ! anci5t 
wat]front f ! bridge by :i* ! rue ,/4   
,ca!r9e "h crosses ! riv] is p>ticul>ly 

picturesque4 ,! old brick /ructures g   
d[n to ! v wat]'s edge1 & sometimes bel[
 x1 & ! entire pile f ?is side mu/ look 
mu* z x did 9 ,meml+'s day4  ,ano!r     
arti/ ^: "w %$s lu/re on ! old t[n (    
,bruges 0 ,ghe]h>dt ,david4 ,= ne>ly f\r
 c5turies 8 "n & ev5 8 v exi/5ce 7      
=gott51 8 pa9t+s be+ attribut$ to       
,meml+--9 itself a high evid5ce ( _!    
m]it4 ,rec5t /udies by ,james ,weale &  
o!r s*ol>s h giv5 u q a complete life ( 
?is arti/1 :o liv$ betwe5 #adfj & #aebc1
 & a numb] ( 8 works h be5 id5tifi$4    
,all ( ^! seem to h be5 pa9t$ at        
,bruges1 & "s ( ! m notable ones /ill   
rema9 !re4 ,! municipal au?orities      
commission$ him to pa9t two great       
pictures repres5t+ notable examples (   
ju/ice su* z ,van d] ,weyd5 _h done = ! 
,hotel de ,ville at ,brussels4 ,^!      
depict ! flay+ alive ( ! unju/ ,judge   
,sisamnes by ,cambyses1 ,k+ ( ,p]sia1 & 
are /ill pres]v$ 9 ! museum at ,bruges4 
,! museum also possesses ano!r ma/]piece
 by ?is arti/1 ,! ,baptism ( ,*ri/4     

,o!rs t h be5 id5tifi$ ?r\gh pa9/ak+    
/udy ( ! old ar*ives ( ! city &         
contempor>y s\rces are locat$ 9 !       
,national ,gall]y at ,london & 9 !      
museum ( ,r\54  ,! prosp]ity ( ,bruges 0
 decl9+ v fa/ :ile ,david 0 pa9t+ ! la/ 
( 8 religi\s pictures & ! m]*ants 7     
/eadily leav+ ! city = ,antw]p1 :i* 0 n[
 ris+ into importance4 ,! arti/s1 ^:    
prosp]ity dep5d$ ^u ! weal? ( ! burgh]s 
7 also drift+ to ! new comm]cial        
metropolis on ! ,s*eldt & ! fam\s s*ool 
( ,bruges 0 ne> its end by ! middle ( ! 
sixte5? c5tury4 ,! la/ arti/s :o work$  
at ,bruges 7 ( m9or int]e/4 ,adria5     
,ys5brant1 ,alb]t ,cornelis & ,jean     
,prvo/ belong to ?is p]iod1 & _! mo/    
important works are /ill pres]v$ 9 !    
city :]e !y 7 execut$4 ,! ,virg9 ( !    
,sev5 ,sorr[s1 9 ! *ur* ( ,notre ,dame1 
is attribut$ to ! fir/1 a tripty* 9 !   
*ur* ( ,/4 ,jacques to ! second1 :ile ! 
museum has sev]al pictures by ,prvo/1   
includ+ an int]e/+ ,la/ ,judgm5t1 &     
ano!r /rik+ repres5tation ( ! same      

subject by ,piet] ,p\rbus1 ( :i* !re is 
a copy 9 ! ,palais du ,franc4 ,!        
ma/]pieces by ,jean ,van ,eyck 9 ?is    
museum h already be5 m5tion$1 & ! small 
b exce$+ly ri* collection also includes 
a f9e production entitl$ ,! ,dea? ( !   
,virg91 :i* is n[ g5]ally attribut$ to  
,hugo ,van d] ,goes--"o ( ! comp>atively
 few works by t ma/] t h come d[n to u4 
,!re are also sev]al o!r works by ,p4   
,p\rbus1 & a p[]ful allegorical picture 
by ,jean ,prvo/ repres5t+ ,av>ice &     
,dea?4 ,!re is und\bt$ly no collection (
 pa9t+s 9 ! _w ( :i* ! av]age value is s
 great z t ( ! little gr\p 9 ! hospital 
( ,/4 ,jean1 & ! "o 9 ! ,bruges         
museum--:ile x has q a few ( m9or int]e/
 & value--w\ld also br+ a v high av]age 
if subject$ to ! bidd+ ( ! _w's         
millionaire art lov]s4  ,illu/ration3   
,an ,illum9ation by ,ghe]h>dt ,david (  
,bruges1 #adih2 ,/4 ,b>b>a  ,bruges     
possesses ano!r museum ( great int]e/   
:i* dates f ! days ( ! la/ ,dukes (     
,burgundy4 ,?is is ! ,gruu?uise mansion1

 ( :i* ! olde/ w+ 0 built 9 #adbj1 & mu*
 ( ! f9] portion ab\t #adgj by ,l\is1 or
 ,lodewyk1 ,van d] ,gruu?uise1 :o "h    
ent]ta9$ ,*>les ! ,bold & 8 pretty      
daught]--becom+ "o ( ! latt]'s *ief     
advis]s on ! dea? ( h] fa!r & "o ( ! two
 ,flemi% noblem5 :o witness$ h] m>riage4
 ,! /ately old palace is !re=e ri* )    
hi/oric associations4 ,z we ent]$ its   
broad c\rty>d1 h[ev]1 we 7 mo/          
unfav\rably impress$ by its r\gh-pav$   
surface ) ! grass gr[+ ?ick betwe5 !    
/ones4 ,surely ?is mu/ h look$ v diff]5t
 9 ! days :5 knights & fair ladies sw>m$
 "h l bees1 & ! city1 :i* has s c>efully
 re/or$ ev]y?+ else1 w\ld d well to at  
lea/ p>k ?is o!rwise v pretty little    
enclosure4 ,! int]ior is bo? pleas+ &   
disappo9t+4 ,! edifice itself is sup]b z
 a survival ( a nobleman's palace ( !   
fifte5? c5tury1 & z an example ( ,flemi%
 int]ior ar*itecture4 ,! gr& /one       
/aircase1 ! massive fireplaces1 also 9  
:ite /one1 & "o or two ( ! rooms 9 _!   
entirety give a f9e impression ( !      

spl5d\r ( ! e/abli%m5t ma9ta9$ by !     
great ,"l ( ,gruu?uise 9 ! days :5 he   
c\nt$ ,k+ ,edw>d ,,iv ( ,engl& & ,ri*>d 
,crookback among 8 gue/s1 & 0 engag$ 9  
collect+ ! m>vell\s libr>y n[ 9 ,p>is4  
,ev]y:]e1 ov] ! fireplaces1 & 9 v>i\s   
/one c>v+s1 "o reads ! pr\d motto ( !   
p[]ful build]s ( ?is palace1 ,plus e/ en
 n\s4  ,:5 ! palace 0 9 c\rse (         
re/oration "s ye>s ago ! workm5 uncov]$ 
a secret *amb] beh9d ! great /one       
fireplace 9 ! kit*51 conceal$ )9 !      
masonry ( ! huge *imney1 & )9 x !       
skeleton ( a man4 ,a secret /aircase 0  
also discov]$ "h :i* l$ to two und]gr\nd
 passages bran*+ (f 9 opposite          
directions4 ,/rangely en\gh nei!r ( !m  
has ev] be5 explor$1 b "o is suppos$ to 
lead to ! vaults b5ea? ! adjo9+ *ur* (  
,notre ,dame1 & ! o!r to "s po9t outside
 ! city walls4 ,"s h conjectur$ t x     
leads to ! ,*teau ( ,maele1 "s f\r miles
 di/ant1 b probably x w5t to ! manor ( !
 ,lords ( ,gruu?uise at ,oo/camp4 ,)9   
?is mansion a mod]n ,sir ,walt] ,scott  

c\ld easily conjure =? a new s]ies (    
,wav]ley novels treat+ ( ! /irr+ days :5
 ,bruges 0 virtually ! capital ( ,fl&]s 
& ,fl&]s 0 ! brighte/ jewel 9 !         
,burgundian cr[n4  ,all ?is is mo/      
fasc9at+1 &1 z f> z x goes1 helps u to  
recon/ruct 9 fancy ! great days ( ! pa/4
 ,! disappo9t+ feature ab\t ! palace is 
! museum itself1 :i*1 al?\gh int]e/+ &  
valuable1 utt]ly spoils _m ( ! f9e rooms
 by conv]t+ !m into m]e exhibition      
places4 ,9 a measure ! au?orities h     
foll[$ ! admirable plan ( ! own]s ( !   
,hotel ,m]ghelynck at ,ypres1 & ! imm5se
 kit*51 = example1 conta9s only kit*5   
ut5sils ( ! ,middle ,ages--a mo/        
complete & int]e/+ collection4 ,! same  
is also true ( ! l>ge d9+-room on ! same
 floor1 b z "o proce$s f>!r ! atmosph]e 
( antiquity becomes lo/ & x is all no?+ 
b museum4 ,! palace conta9s a spl5did   
collection ( old lace1 ! gift ( !       
,b>oness ,li$ts1 b x seem$ to u t x w\ld
 h be5 mu* bett] to h h\s$ ?is & ! v>i\s
 collections ( antiquities 9 "s less    

fam\s & hi/oric /ructure & endeav\r$ to 
re/ore all ( ^! rooms to approximately  
_! condition :5 ,*>les ! ,bold /alk$    
?r\gh !m4  ,! p]iod ( ,philip ! ,good & 
8 t]rible son 0 ! "o 9 :i* m$ival       
,bruges took on sub/antially its pres5t 
=m4 ,9 addition to ! ,gruu?uise ,palace 
scores ( important edifices1 public &   
private1 7 built or rebuilt at ?is "t1  
:ile hundr$s ( small] h\ses 7           
con/ruct$--( :i* _m rema9 9 exi/5ce     
to-day4 ,! greate/ & mo/ fam\s edifice  
dat+ 9 l>ge "p f ?is epo* is ! ca!dral (
 ,/4 ,sauveur ^: grim1 ca/le-l t[]      
dom9ates ! entire city4 ,! l[e/ "p ( !  
t[] dates f #aaaf-aabg--;z already      
relat$ 9 ! *apt] on ,bruges "u ,*>les ! 
,good--:5 ! *ur* 0 rebuilt aft] a fire t
 de/roy$ ! primitive /ructure erect$ on 
! site a c5tury or m e>li]4 ,betwe5     
#abej & #acdf1 or = almo/ a c5tury1 ! m5
 ( ,bruges 7 sl[ly pil+ up a noble *ur* 
9 ! e>ly ,go?ic /yle1 b ano!r fire 9    
#aceh necessitat$ rebuild+ ! nave &     
transept--a task :i* occupi$ ! next t5  

or fifte5 ye>s4 ,9 #adhj "w 0 begun ^u !
 five *apels ( ! *oir & n9e ye>s lat] ! 
,pope1 ,innoc5t ,,viii1 grant$ a special
 ,bull ( ,indulg5ce 9 fav\r ( b5efactors
 ( ?is "w1 :i* appe>s to h be5 delay$ = 
lack ( funds4 ,"w ( v>i\s k9ds 0 cont9u$
 until ! middle ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 b1 9
 ! ma91 ! great *ur* 0 ne>ly z we see x 
n[ by ! ye> #aeaa4 ,! upp] "p ( ! t[] is
 comp>atively mod]n1 dat+ f #ahdf1 & !  
spire f #ahga4 ,:ile x has be5 criticis$
 by "s z unga9ly & cumbr\s1 ! effect (  
?is t[]1 f :atev] angle x may be view$1 
is v pleas+4 ,! high lights & %ad[s on a
 sunny morn+1 or late 9 ! aft]noon1 make
 x f> m beautiful ?an its si/] ( ,notre 
,dame1 :ile aga9/ ! grey cl\d masses ( a
 typical ,flemi% sky its huge tawny mass
 /&s out %>p & cle>1 ! embodim5t (      
maje/y & /r5g?4  ,! int]ior ( ! *ur* is 
v l>ge1 measur+ ?ree hundr$ & ?irty-"o  
feet by "o hundr$ & tw5ty-five feet1 )  
an extreme wid? ( "o hundr$ & sev5ty-f\r
 feet across ! transepts4 ,its poly*rome
 decorations & /a9$ glass w9d[s are     

mod]n4 ,9 ano!r place ! weal? ( art     
treasures 9 ?is *ur* w\ld m]it a *apt]1 
b 9 ,bruges !y are s ov]%ad[$ by ! _m   
ma/]pieces to be se5 else:]e t we felt  
some:at satiat$ aft] su* a fea/ & sp5t v
 little "t look+ at ! pictures "h4 ,!   
mo/ fam\s "o is a ,m>tyrdom ( ,/4       
,hippolytus1 by ,di]ick ,b\ts1 :i* is   
int]e/+ because s few examples ( ?is    
primitive ma/] are 9 exi/5ce4 ,x is a   
tripty*1 ! c5tral panel %[+ ! sa9t ab\t 
to be torn to pieces by wild horses1 on 
! left an incid5t 9 ! life ( ! sa9t1 &  
on ! "r ! donors4 ,! la/ picture has be5
 attribut$ by _m critics to ,hugo ,van  
d] ,goes1 & = _m ye>s ! entire picture 0
 ?\ght to be ! "w ( ,meml+4 ,b\ts       
delight$ 9 unpleasant subjects1 :i* he  
depict$ ) great realism4  ,illu/ration3 
,,! ,,la/ ,,supp]4--,,?i]ry ,,b\ts4     
,di]ick1 or ,?i]ry1 ,b\ts settl$ at     
,l\va9 ab\t ! middle ( ! fifte5? c5tury4
 ,beyond ! fact t he came f ,ha>lem no?+
 is kn[n ( 8 e>ly life & tra9+1 b z ,van
 d] ,weyd5 ( ,t\rnai _h done "s         

important "w at ,l\va9 x is likely t    
,b\ts may h d]iv$ "s ( 8 inspiration f  
/udy+ ! me?ods ( t ma/]4 ,he 0 a        
contempor>y ( ,meml+4 ,two ( 8 pa9t+s1  
,! ,la/ ,supp] & ! gruesome ,m>tyrdom ( 
,/4 ,erasmus1 7 execut$ = ! weal?y      
bro!rhood ( ! ,holy ,sacram5t & 7 hung 9
 ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,pet]4#b ,b\ts became !   
(ficial pa9t] = ! city ( ,l\va9 &       
produc$ a ,la/ ,judgm5t = ! hall ( !    
*ev9s :i* has s9ce be5 lo/1 & two panels
 = ! c\ncil-room ( ! ,hotel de ,ville   
repres5t+ ,! ,judgm5t ( ,o?o4 ,^! are n[
 9 ! museum at ,brussels4 ,! ,que5 hav+ 
accus$ an e>l ( (f5d+ h] hon\r1 ! latt] 
is decapitat$4 ,! head is !n giv5 to 8  
,c\ntess1 toge!r ) a gl[+ b> ( iron4 ,9 
! second panel %e is %[n triumphantly   
hold+ bo?1 ! hot iron refus+ to burn h] 
& !reby v9dicat+ h] husb&'s innoc5ce4 ,!
 result ( ! ordeal is %[n 9 ! di/ance   
:]e ! false ,que5 is be+ execut$ at !   
/ake4 ,^! pictures 7 ord]$1 9 imitation 
( ^? pa9t$ by ,van d] ,weyd5 = ! ,hotel 
de ,ville at ,brussels1 z "p ( a s]ies (

 panels design$ to in/ill ! love (      
virtue & ju/ice into ! m9ds ( !         
magi/rates & p4 ,! arti/'s dea? prev5t$ 
8 complet+ two o!r panels t ! ar*ives ( 
,l\va9 %[ _h be5 ord]$4 ,besides ?is    
,m>tyrdom ( ,/4 ,hippolytus a           
comp>atively small numb] ( o!r works f 8
 bru% are li/$ 9 ! catalogues ( v>i\s   
,european museums4  ,footnote #b3 ,!y 7 
probably de/roy$ dur+ ! burn+ ( ,l\va9  
by ! ,g]mans4  ,( ! o!r /ructures 9     
,bruges ( to-day !re are a score t m]it 
a visit f ^? :o are int]e/$ 9 ! city's  
spl5did pa/1 & t date = ! mo/ "p f ! la/
 ye>s ( ! ,burgundian p]iod4 ,9 ! rue   
des ,aiguilles !re /ill exi/s a fragm5t 
( ! ,hotel ,bladel91 ! t[n h\se ( ,pet] 
,bladel91 :o 0 = _m ye>s                
,controll]-,g5]al ( ,f9ance1 ,treasur] (
 ! ,ord] ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece1 & ! tru/$  
ag5t ( ! ,dukes 9 all mann] ( bus9ess & 
private affairs4 ,pet] subsequ5tly built
 ! t[n ( ,middleburg1 = ! *ur* 9 :i*    
,van d] ,weyd5 pa9t$ "o ( 8 mo/ fam\s   
pictures4 ,! ,ghi/elh( 9 ! same /reet   

also dates f ?is epo*1 & 0 built by !   
,lords ( ,ghi/elle4 ,!n !re is ! ,hotel 
d',adornes & ! *ur* ( ,j]usalem1 :i* 0  
=m]ly ! private *apel ( ! ri* bro!rs    
,anselm & ,john ,adornes4 ,!re is /ill a
 f9e m$ival atmosph]e l+]+ ab\t ?is gr\p
 ( build+s1 al?\gh mu* alt]$ f :at !y 7 
9 _! prime4 ,! *ur* itself is mo/       
curi\s1 & b5ea? ! *oir is a crypt t     
leads to a reproduction ( ! ,holy       
,sepul*re1 said to be a facsimile ( ! "o
 9 ! g>d5 ( ,joseph ( ,arima!a4 ,x w\ld 
take a volume to cite all ( ! f9e old   
/ructures ( :i* traces /ill exi/ 9 ?is1 
! mo/ picturesque ( all ! ,flemi%       
cities4 ,! read] :o desires to f9d !m   
all _c d bett] ?an to take ,erne/       
,gilliat-,smi?'s brilliant ,/ory (      
,bruges ) him & look = !m1 "o by "o4 ,= 
^? :o _c devote a week or m to ?is      
delightful task a quick] way to see !   
,bruges ( ,*>les ! ,bold is to /roll    
sl[ly along ! ,quai ,v]t1 ! ,quai des   
,m>bri]s & ! ,quai du ,rosaire & let !  
beautiful vi/as ( ! ,vieux ,b\rg ) its  

qua9t r$ ro(s & noble t[]s become       
engrav$ ^u ! memory1 = "h1 m completely 
?an any:]e else1 "o c see ! ,bruges ( ! 
pa/ mu* z x look$ 9 ! day ( its greate/ 
spl5d\r :5 x 0 ab\t to s9k into its long
 sleep4  ,?us f> ,bruges has n suff]$   
s]i\sly f ! w>1 & x is pr(\ndly to be   
hop$ t no bomb>dm5t su* z crumbl$ its   
fair neighb\r ,t]monde into utt] ru9 w  
create simil> havoc amid ^!             
indescribably beautiful sc5es4 ,a few   
h\rs w\ld suffice to de/roy arti/ic &   
ar*itectural treasures ( a value t w\ld 
make ! de/ruction ( ,l\va9 seem ( little
 consequ5ce 9 comp>ison4  ,illu/ration3 
,,quai ,,v]t1 ,,bruges4     ,,*apt] ,,xv
  ,,mal9es ,,9 ,,! ,,"t ,,( ,,m>g>et ,,(
 ,,au/ria   ,s9ce ?is *apt] 0 writt5 !  
ill-fat$ city ( ,mal9es has be5 swept ) 
%ot & %ell = _m days toge!r1 its once   
happy & prosp]\s inhabitants driv5 f> & 
wide--_m ( !m into =eign l&s--& x is    
d\btful if a s+le "o ( ! v>i\s anci5t   
edifices :i* we visit$ la/ ,june has    
escap$ injury4 ,not)/&+ ^! sad facts x  

has seem$ be/ to reta9 ! *apt]          
sub/antially z x 0 writt51 inasmu* z x  
af=ds a p5 picture ( ! old t[n z x look$
 on ! v eve ( its de/ruction4 ,let u    
hope t :5 ! w> is ov] x w be f\nd t mo/1
 if n all1 ( its fam\s old /ructures c  
be re/or$ aga94 ,z ! sc5e ( "s ( ! mo/  
/ubborn conflicts ( ! great w>1 x is    
likely t ! city w be m g5]ally visit$ by
 t\ri/s ?an 0 ! case :5 its ar*itectural
 & arti/ic treasures 7 un9jur$1 save by 
! g5tle h& ( "t4 ,to ^? :o ?us visit x !
 foll[+ acc\nt ( ! ,mal9es t 0 may prove
 int]e/+4  ,situat$ midway betwe5       
,antw]p & ,brussels1 on a r\te =m]ly    
trav]s$ by scores ( rapides e day1 !    
anci5t city ( ,mal9es--:i* is ! ,fr5*   
spell+1 ! ,flemi% be+ ,me*el5--0        
exceptionally easy to visit1 yet dur+ ! 
?ree days t we sp5t w&]+ along its      
entranc+ old quays & /reets & inspect+  
its _m monum5ts we saw n a s+le t\ri/4  
,?is 0 ! m rem>kable because ,mal9es is 
n only "o ( ! v olde/ cities 9 ,nor!rn  
,europe1 b 0 = c5turies among ! mo/     

fam\s4 ,= a consid]able p]iod x 0 !     
capital ( all ! ,ne!rl&s1 & x is /ill ! 
religi\s capital ( ,belgium--! ar*bi%op 
( its ca!dral *ur* ex]cis+ au?ority ov] 
! bi%ops ( ,bruges1 ,gh5t1 ,lige1 ,namur
 & ,t\rnai4  ,no matt] f :i* side "o    
approa*es ! city ! fir/ object to be se5
 is ! va/ squ>e t[] ( ! ,ca!dral ( ,/4  
,rombaut1 & z ?is huge /ructure--! eigh?
 wond] ( ! _w1 accord+ to               
,vauban--dom9ates ! t[n1 s ! *ur* itself
 has dom9at$ ! hi/ory ( ! city on !     
,riv] ,dyle = m ?an elev5 c5turies4     
,accord+ to tradition ,/4 ,rombaut1 or  
,rombold1 to use ! ,engli% spell+1 s\ght
 to conv]t ! savage tribes inhabit+ !   
m>%es t ext5d$ along ! riv] ab\t !      
middle ( ! eigh? c5tury1 ! date ( 8     
m>tyrdom be+ plac$ at #gge4 ,a ,b5$ict9e
 abbey 0 %ortly aft]w>ds e/abli%$ ne> 8 
tomb1 :i* /eadily grew 9 importance &   
p[] until by ! twelf? c5tury x _h become
 "o ( ! mo/ important religi\s          
in/itutions 9 ! region4 ,dur+ ! ?irte5? 
c5tury ! pr9ce-bi%ops ( ,mal9es became !

 virtual sov]eigns ( ! city1 "o (       
!m--,gau?i] ,b]?\t1 sometimes call$ !   
,great--defeat+ ! ,duke ( ,gueldre1 :o  
attempt$ 9 #abfg to ass]t 8 au?ority ov]
 t ( ! prelate4 ,at ?is p]iod _m ( !    
religi\s in/itutions ( ,mal9es 7        
e/abli%$ "u ! patronage ( ,gau?i] ,b]?\t
 & 8 successors4  ,illu/ration3         
,,ca!dral ,,( ,,/4 ,,rombaut4 ,,mal9es4 
,mean:ile ! comp>ative immunity ( ! city
 f ! ravages ( ! w>s t s (t5 rag$ at t  
p]iod betwe5 ! v>i\s feudal lords ( !   
region caus$ great numb]s ( artisans to 
settle !re1 p>ticul>ly weav]s1 :ile !   
clo? m]*ants' guild came to be recognis$
 z entitl$ to a voice 9 ! civil affairs 
( ! commune4 ,%ips1 accord+ to !        
*ronicles1 came up ! ,riv] ,dyle 9 su*  
numb]s z to make ! comm]cial activity ( 
! t[n rival t ( ,antw]p--a /atem5t t is 
h>d to believe :5 "o gazes at ! t9y     
,riv] ,dyle ( to-day4 ,h[ev]1 ! %ips 9  
^? days 7 v small1 & ! riv]1 l s _m o!rs
 9 ,belgium1 0 no d\bt broad] !n ?an x  
is n[ t ! m>%es h all be5 dra9$4 ,!     

weav]s & o!r artisans 7 a turbul5t lot1 
& x soon became evid5t t ! bi%ops lack$ 
! p[] to hold !m 9 *eck4  ,?is l$ to a  
s]ies ( ali5ations ( ! temporal p[] ov] 
! commune to neighb\r+ pr9ces ^: armies 
7 /rong en\gh to keep ! unruly burgh]s 9
 re/ra9t4 ,! fir/ ( ^! 0 effect$ 9 ! ye>
 #acjj betwe5 ! pr9ce-bi%op1 ,jean      
,b]?\t1 & ,jean ,,ii1 ,duke ( ,brabant4 
,9 #acjc ! news ( ! great victory ga9$  
ov] ! nobility by ! ,flemi% communes at 
,c\rtrai caus$ ! citiz5s to revolt aga9/
 _! new ma/]1 ! ,duke1 :o besieg$ ! city
 & f9ally r$uc$ x by />vation4 ,until   
?is "t ! ,dyle _h nev] be5 bridg$1 its  
wat]s fl[+ ov] a broad m>%y b$4 ,?is    
made ! siege ! m difficult z ! attack+  
=ces 7 sep>at$ by ! riv]1 & x 0 five    
mon?s be=e ! /urdy burgh]s yield$4 ,to  
?is day an annual procession1 call$ !   
peysprocessie1 p]petuates ! memory ( ?is
 fam\s siege4  ,dur+ ! next half c5tury 
! civil au?ority ov] ! city became a    
v]itable %uttlecock ( politics & w>1    
%ift+ back & =? betwe5 ! ,dukes (       

,brabant & ! ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s4 ,x 0 b\ght
 & sold l a p>cel ( real e/ate1 b       
ev5tually re/$ ) ! ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s1 :o  
_h fir/ acquir$ x by pur*ase 9 #accc1 & 
7 f9ally left 9 undisput$ possession by 
a treaty sign$ 9 #aceg4 ,f\r ye>s lat] a
 viol5t insurrection ( ! weav]s & o!r   
artisans broke out t 0 only ma/]$ aft] !
 city _h be5 9 _! possession fifte5     
days1 b ) ! adv5t ( ! ,dukes ( ,burgundy
 to ! supreme p[] ov] all ( ,fl&]s1     
,brabant1 ,ha9aut & ,holl&1 ! unruly    
workm5 7 no long] /rong en\gh to resi/  
^! r$\btable pr9ces4 ,great numb]s ( !m 
emigrat$ to o!r cities1 & ! clo?        
indu/ry1 aft] langui%+ = a "t1 f9ally   
disappe>$4  ,l mo/ ,flemi% t[ns1 ,mal9es
 has its pr9cipal railway /ation locat$ 
on its v outskirts1 & z f> z possible f 
! ,gr&e ,place4 ,a tram c> 0 /&+ 9 front
 ( ! /ation on ! morn+ ( our fir/ visit1
 b x seem$ t x did n />t = t5 m9utes4 ,a
 score ( roomy two-seat$ c>riages invit$
 our patronage1 b we valiantly decid$ to
 walk4 ,we soon regrett$ our decision z 

! walk prov$ to be long & hot1 ) v      
little ( int]e/ to see1 z ! h\ses 9 ?is 
"p ( ! t[n are comp>atively mod]n4 ,at !
 bridge across ! ,dyle we paus$ = a few 
mom5ts to admire ! f9e views t c "h be  
_h ( ! old ,*ur* ,notre ,dame au del de 
la ,dyle to ! we/w>d & ! equally        
picturesque ,notre ,dame d',hanswyck to 
! ea/w>d4 ,j beyond ! riv] is ! entrance
 to ! ,botanical ,g>d5s1 & z our fir/   
visit *anc$ to be on a ,friday we walk$ 
9 unmole/$ & enjoy$ ! welcome %ade & !  
beautiful l&scape effects ( ?is *>m+    
little p>k4 ,lat] on we le>n$ t ,friday 
is ! only week-day on :i* admission is  
free1 a fee ( t5 c5ts be+ exact$ on o!r 
days4  ,z is ! case 9 mo/ ,belgian      
cities1 ! /reet f ! /ation to ! he>t ( !
 t[n1 al?\gh cont9u\s & /raight1 *anges 
its "n m ?an once4 ,at ! outset x is !  
rue ,consci5ce1 !n ! rue d',egmont1 & f 
! bridge across ! ,dyle to ! ,gr&e      
,place x is nam$ ,bruul4 ,ent]+ ! ,place
 f ?is side we paus$ to admire !        
trem5d\s t[] ( ! ca!dral :i* "h bur/ ^u 

u 9 all its maje/ic gr&eur1 al?\gh !    
edifice is situat$ a little to ! we/ ( !
 ,place itself4 ,9 front ( u1 on ! "r1 0
 a s+ul>ly dilapidat$ ru91 :i* we le>n$ 
0 ! old ,clo? ,hall4 ,"p ( x is us$ z a 
police /ation1 "p is vacant ) its w9d[  
op5+s devoid ( sa%es or glass />+       
blankly at ! sky1 :ile "p is devot$ to  
h\s+ a small museum ( municipal         
antiquities4 ,! fir/ ,clo? ,hall at     
,mal9es 0 de/roy$ by fire 9 #acdb1 & !  
new "o t 0 begun to replace x 0 nev]    
f9i%$1 ow+ to ! ru9 ( ! clo? indu/ry    
dur+ ! /ruggles betwe5 ! artisans & _!  
ov]lords1 & a belfry :i* x 0 propos$ to 
erect simil> to t at ,bruges 0 nev]     
begun4 ,! museum conta9s a numb] (      
pictures by ,mal9es arti/s1 ( hi/orical 
r ?an arti/ic int]e/1 a ,*ri/ on !      
,cross1 by ,rub5s1 & a v>iety ( relics (
 ! city's fam\s pa/4 ,curi\sly en\gh1   
!re is n a s+le piece ( lace 9 !        
collection1 nor any?+ to repres5t !     
great clo? weav+ indu/ry--! two bran*es 
( manufacture to :i* ! city owes s mu* (

 its =m] weal? & fame4  ,adjo9+ ! ,halle
 aux ,draps to ! nor? is a f9e mod]n    
po/-(fice built f designs drawn by !    
great ,mal9es ar*itect ( ! sixte5?      
c5tury1 ,rombaut ,keld]mans1 = a new    
,hotel de ,ville1 :i* 0 nev] built4     
,un=tunately its pr9cipal faade ov]looks
 ! n>r[ rue de ,beff] in/ead ( ! ,gr&e  
,place1 & its beautiful details _c be   
se5 z effectively z c\ld be desir$4 ,9 !
 ,vieux ,palais1 ! anci5t ,s*ep5huis1 or
 h\se ( ! bailiffs1 situat$ a little s\?
 ( ! ,place1 we 7 %[n ! orig9al design  
by ,keld]mans4 ,x is kept 9 a slid+     
panel on ! wall &1 al?\gh some:at dim ) 
age1 c /ill be /udi$ 9 detail4 ,! mod]n 
ar*itects ( ! po/-(fice h rev]5tly      
foll[$ ! plans ( ! great ma/] s t at    
lea/ ?is "o ( 8 _m brilliant            
ar*itectural dreams has come true1 & n[ 
/&s c>v$ 9 imp]i%able /one j z 8 g5ius  
conceiv$ x ne>ly f\r c5turies ago4  ,to 
! ance/or ( ?is ar*itect1 ,jean         
,keld]mans1 is g5]ally attribut$ ! hon\r
 ( design+ ! t[] ( ,/4 ,rombaut1 !      

ar*itectural glory ( ,mal9es & "o ( !   
mo/ magnific5t /ructures ( ! k9d 9 ! _w4
 ,!re are a ?\s& places ?r\gh\t ! city  
:]e ! photograph] or pa9t] c obta9      
attractive views ( ?is ma/]piece1 b     
p]haps ! be/ ( all is f a po9t "s       
di/ance d[n ! ,ruelle sans ,f9 7,little 
,/reet )\t ,end7 :]e a qua9t m$ival h\se
 =ms an ar* across ! n>r[ /reet1 :ile   
beh9d & f> above x rises ! maje/ic t[]4 
,f :atev] /&po9t "o reg>ds ! great t[]1 
:e!r gaz+ up at its va/ bulk f directly 
b5ea?--a po9t ( view t ! cam]a _c       
reproduce--or f any ( ! little /reets t 
radiate away f x1 its gr&eur & beauty   
are equally impressive4  ,illu/ration3  
,,t[] ,,( ,,! ,,ca!dral ,,( ,,/4        
,,rombaut ,,f ,,! ,,ruelle ,,sans ,,f94 
,begun 9 #adeb1 "w on ! great t[]       
advanc$ sl[ly4 ,9 #adfh1 accord+ to a   
memorial tablet ne> ! s\!rn side ( !    
t[]1 ,gau?i] ,coolman 0 buri$ !re4 ,x 0 
! cu/om 9 ! ,middle ,ages to ?us        
recognise ! magi/] op]is1 or creator ( !
 "w1 b x is g5]ally ackn[l$g$ t ,jean   

,keld]mans is entitl$ to %>e 9 ! cr$it =
 ?is a*ievem5t4 ,jean 0 ! fir/ 9 a      
family ( fam\s ar*itects1 8 bro!rs ,&r1 
,ma?ieu & ,anto9e ,i1 foll[+ ! same     
pr(ession1 & _! skill be+ h&$ d[n to    
lat] g5]ations1 ( :om ! mo/ fam\s 7     
,anto9e ,,ii1 ,rombaut & ,laur5t4 ,at ! 
beg9n+ ( ! sixte5? c5tury "w on ! great 
t[] 0 /opp$1 ow+ to lack ( funds1 aft]  
atta9+ a height ( ?ree hundr$ & eighte5 
feet4 ,! plans1 ( :i* sket*es are /ill  
pres]v$ at ,brussels1 call$ = c>ry+ !   
spire upw>d to a total height ( five    
hundr$ & fifty feet1 & 9 ! ambulatory ( 
! ca!dral we f\nd a pla/] ca/ %[+ !     
spire z x 0 propos$ to erect x4 ,! /ones
 to complete ! "w 7 already cut & br\ght
 to ,mal9es1 b 7 c>ri$ away betwe5 #aehb
 & #aehd by ! ,pr9ce ( ,orange to build 
! t[n ( ,willem/adt4 ,ap>t f its height1
 ?is t[] is rem>kable = its great bulk1 
measur+ no less ?an tw5ty-five metres 9 
diamet] at ! base4  ,on ea* side = mo/ (
 its height ! ar*itect design$ a s]ies (
 l(ty ,go?ic w9d[s4 ,( ^! ! l[e/ are    

fill$ 9 ) masonry1 except = a t9y w9d[ 9
 ! c5tre4 ,9 ! high] ones /one bl9ds    
fill 9 ! op5+s1 :ile ! topmo/ pair are  
wide op5 to ! sky4 ,! well-kn[n leg5d   
ab\t ! ov]-excitable citiz5 ( ,mal9es :o
 cri$ ,fire6 "o night aft] see+ ! full  
moon ?r\gh ^! w9d[s gave ! p ( ! t[n =  
_m ye>s ! nickname ( ,maanbluss*]s1 or  
moon ext+ui%]s1 & also gave rise to !   
slur 9 ! la/ ?ree words ( ! foll[+ ,lat9
 di/i* 9 :i* an old monki% poet comp>es 
! six *ief cities ( ,belgium3           
,nobilibus ,bruxella viris1 ,antw]pia   
,nummis1     ,g&avum laqueis1 =mosis    
,bruga puellis1     ,lovanium doctis1   
gaudet ,me*l9ia /ultis4      ,brussels  
is r5[n$ = its noble m51 ,antw]p = its  
money1     ,gh5t = its halt]s1 ,bruges =
 its pretty girls1     ,l\va9 = its     
s*ol>s1 ,mal9es 7,me*el57 = its fools4  
,?is seems r h>d on ,mal9es1 & also on  
,gh5t1 ! allusion to t city ref]r+ to   
num]\s occasions :5 its sov]eigns humbl$
 ! burgh]s by =c+ !m to plead = m]cy )  
halt]s ar\nd _! necks4  ,on ! outside ( 

! t[]1 close to its pres5t summit1 is a 
clock ! face ( :i* is claim$ to be !    
l>ge/ 9 ! _w4 ,z ! same claim is made = 
! great clock on an indu/rial e/abli%m5t
 9 ,j]sey ,city ,i w simply give !      
dim5sions ( ! "o at ,mal9es & let ^?    
int]e/$ make ! comp>ison = !mselves3    
,diamet] ( face1 #ac4e metres2          
circumf]5ce1 #da metres2 l5g? ( h\r h&1 
#c4fb metres2 height ( figures1 #a4if   
metres4 ,! m9ute h&s 7 orig9ally #d4be  
metres long1 b are miss+ on all f\r     
sides4 ,?is r5d]s ! "t-piece h>dly "o to
 be consult$ if "o is cat*+ a tra91 z ! 
exact m9ute c only be e/imat$ f !       
position ( ! h\r h&4 ,fur!rmore1 ! gild+
 on ! h\r h&s & on mo/ ( ! figures has  
become s dim t only ! /ronge/ eyes c    
di/+ui% ! =m]1 & "s ( ! latt] c only be 
made out f _! position4 ,z ! city appe>$
 to be exce$+ly pr\d ( ! size ( ?is     
clock x seem$ /range t ! au?orities did 
n au?orise ! exp5diture ( ! small sum   
necess>y to re-gild x4  ,x is a h>d     
climb to ! top ( ! t[]1 b "o well wor?  

mak+1 n only = ! f9e panorama ( ! city t
 unfolds itself wid] & wid] z "o m\nts  
high]1 b = ! opportunity ?us af=d$ (    
see+ ! f9e c>illon1 or set ( *imes1 & ! 
curi\s me*anism op]at+ ! clapp]s t /rike
 ! h\rs4 ,j be=e rea*+ ! floor ^u :i* ^!
 are plac$ ! guide conducts ! visitor to
 a trap door f :i* "o c look d[n into ! 
int]ior ( ! ca!dral--a ?rill+ exp]i5ce  
to be enjoy$ only by ^? :o are n incl9$ 
to be dizzy4 ,! massive timb] "w        
support+ ! huge bells 0 con/ruct$ 9     
#affb1 b ! olde/ ( ! bells dates f      
#adih1 or six ye>s aft] ! discov]y (    
,am]ica4 ,! two bigge/ bells are nam$   
,salvator & ,*>les1 ( :i* ! l>g] "o     
weighs #h1hhd kilos1 or m ?an n9e tons1 
& requires twelve m5 to r+ x4 ,!re are  
f\r o!r big bells & =ty-five = ! entire 
c>illon1 mo/ ( :i* 7 ca/ by ,pi]re      
,hmony ( ,am/]dam1 ! ,/radiv>ius ( bell 
f\nd]s1 9 #afgd4 ,altoge!r !y =m f\r    
octaves1 ! giants *im+ 9 ) ! o!rs z !   
music dem&s4 ,! keybo>d :i* op]ates !   
little hamm]s is op]at$ by bo? h& & foot

 p[]1 & ! c>illonneur :o op]ates x is   
wor?y ( ! spl5did in/rum5t at 8 comm&1  
be+ ,josef ,d5yn1 ! son ( an equally    
fam\s c>illonneur1 & reput$ to be ! f9e/
 9 ,europe4 ,m4 ,d5yn n only gives      
frequ5t conc]ts at ,mal9es1 b also at   
,antw]p & ,bruges1 z well z 9 _m        
,european cities outside ( ,belgium4    
,we made a special trip to ,mal9es "o   
,monday aft]noon 9 ,june solely to li/5 
to "o ( ^! conc]ts1 :i* takes place on t
 day betwe5 eight & n9e 9 ! ev5+1 dur+ !
 mon?s ( ,june1 ,augu/ & ,septemb]4 ,!  
sleepy old t[n 0 ?rong$ ) automobiles1 =
 ! r5[n ( ^! fam\s conc]ts has spread f>
 & wide1 & "s ( ! c>s1 we 7 told1 _h    
come f po9ts z f> away z ,o/5de1        
,blank5burghe & ,hey/1 :ile scores 7 f  
,antw]p & ,brussels4 ,! cr[d ga!r$      
quietly 9 ! /reets surr\nd+ ! great t[] 
& a great sil5ce seem$ to p]vade !      
entire city z ! h\r ( eight approa*$4   
,!n1 fa9t & f> at fir/1 came ! fir/     
dulcet tones f ?is great organ ( ! sky1 
until--z ! music swell$ & m ( ! l>g]    

bells began to bl5d _! notes 9 !        
h>mony--! v air seem$ vibrant ) cele/ial
 s\nds4 ,! selection1 z we aft]w>ds     
le>n$1 0 "o ( ! ,volksli$]51 or pieces (
 folk music = ! r5dition ( :i* ,m4 ,d5yn
 is fam\s4 ,z we li/5$ we realis$ z nev]
 be=e ! "p ! anci5t c>illon 0 meant to  
take 9 ! daily life ( ! p4 ,x is1 9     
tru?1 z a ,fr5* au?or has beautifully   
express$ x1 ! or*e/ra ( ! poor1 giv+    
expression ?r\gh its wondr\s notes to _!
 joys & _! sorr[s4 ,on ! occasion (     
great ftes its music is light & gay1 9  
attune ) ! popul> rejoic+2 9 times (    
public grief ! c>illon gives utt]ance to
 notes ( lam5tation2 :5 a fam\s citiz5  
is be+ borne to 8 la/ re/+-place ?r\gh !
 /reets l9$ ) sil5t m\rn]s ! c>illon    
s5ds ! deep notes ( its fun]al dirges   
across ! city2 9 "t ( w> or sudd5 dang] 
! great bells ro> ! wild tocs9 ( al>m2 9
 "t ( peace _! s(te/ notes brea! a sweet
 pray] ( peace & b5$iction at ev5tide4  
,:ile we 7 visit+ ! t[] we 7 %[n !      
tamb\r ca/ 9 copp] by means ( :i* !     

clock /rikes ! h\rs1 ! half h\rs & !    
qu>t]s4 ,?is 0 ca/ 9 #aghc1 & two ye>s 7
 requir$ to make ! sixte5 ?\s&1 two     
hundr$ squ>e holes into :i* drop ! tee? 
t actuate ! /rik+ hamm]s4  ,! int]ior ( 
,/4 ,rombaut1 :ile maje/ic & impos+1 is 
h>dly z ma/]ly z ! t[]4 ,on ! occasion (
 our fir/ visit a high mass 0 be+       
celebrat$ & we rev]5tly jo9$ ! ?rong (  
wor%ipp]s4 ,9 addition to ! *oir !re 0 a
 body ( "s two hundr$ "y m5 9 ! c5tre ( 
! ca!dral :o p>ticipat$ 9 ! s++1 a cur  
beat+ "t = !m4 ,_! /rong manly voices   
bl5d$ f9ely ) ! high] notes ( ! di/ant  
*oir boys & ! deep tones ( ! organ4 ,f !
 top ( ! *oir long crimson /ream]s 7    
susp5d$1 t]m9at+ at ! back ( ! high alt>
 & giv+ a ri* note ( col\r to ! int]ior1
 :ile ! light f ! /a9$ glass w9d[s      
ov]head p\r$ d[nw>d 9 _m-col\r$ rays ^u 
! ?rong ( black-rob$ prie/s1 ) a spr9kl+
 ( high] dignit>ies clad 9 purple4      
,truly a picture t fill$ ! eye ) !      
pageantry ( religion1 ev5 z ! roll+     
notes ( ! sonor\s *ants fill$ ! e>6     

,aft] ! s]vice 0 ov]1 & ! great ca!dral1
 b n[ s cr[d$1 0 des]t$1 we />t$ on our 
t\r ( inspection4 ,x w\ld be a t$i\s    
task to *ronicle all ( ! objects (      
int]e/4 ,! c>v$ /alls ( ! ,go?ic *oir   
are f> less elaborate 9 workman%ip ?an  
^? at ,ami5s4 ,! alt> by ,faid'h]be1 a  
native ( ,mal9es1 is impos+1 b n (      
rem>kable m]it4 ,! c>v$ pulpit 9 ! nave1
 h[ev]1 is a v]itable ma/]piece ( wood  
c>v+ by ,mi*el ,van d] ,voort ( ,antw]p1
 & dates f #agbc4 ,bel[1 ,/4 ,norb]t is 
%[n flung f 8 horse by a ?und]bolt1     
above is ! ,crucifixion at ! left1 ) !  
,virg9 & ,/4 ,john /&+ bel[ ! cross1    
:ile at ! "r is %[n a *>m+ repres5tation
 ( ! ,fall1 ) ,eve (f]+ ! apple to      
,adam1 bo? figures emb[]$ 9 a mass (    
foliage t tw9es up ! /airway to ! pulpit
 & lifts its bran*es f> ov]head4 ,!     
ma/]piece ( ! pa9t+s is an alt>piece by 
,van ,dyck repres5t+ ! ,crucifixion1 a  
notable repres5tation ( ! gradations (  
grief 9 ! faces ( ! ,virg9 & ,m>y       
,magdal54 ,! att5dant requires a franc  

to uncov] ?is picture4 ,! ,adoration ( !
 ,%eph]ds1 by ,erasmus ,quell51 9 !     
opposite arm ( ! transept1 :ile less    
fam\s1 is a noble piece ( "w4  ,z w\ld  
be expect$ f its great religi\s         
importance1 ,mal9es has num]\s m9or     
*ur*es t conta9 mu* ( int]e/ to !       
visitor4 ,! l>ge/ ( ^! is ,notre ,dame  
au del de la ,dyle1 situat$ across !    
,riv] ,dyle f ! olde/ "p ( ! city1 b    
dat+ f ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,"h ! t\ri/    
usually asks to see ,! ,miracul\s       
,draught ( ,fi%es1 by ,rub5s1 a highly  
col\r$ tripty* t is only uncov]$ :5 "o  
pays a franc to ! att5dant4 ,z ?is ma/] 
produc$ "s sev5te5 hundr$ kn[n works x  
w\ld co/ a small =tune to see !m all at 
a franc apiece1 b ?is "o dates f !      
arti/'s be/ p]iod & is fully wor? !     
price *>g$ to see x4 ,x is vigor\s 9    
treatm5t1 & ! ,fi%mong]s' ,guild1 :i*   
pur*as$ x f ! arti/ 9 #afah = sixte5    
hundr$ flor9s1 c]ta9ly got v good value 
= _! money4 ,! w+s are pa9t$ on bo?     
sides4 ,?is *ur* also conta9s ! curi\s  

,virg9 ) ! ,brok5 ,back4 ,accord+ to !  
popul> leg5d h] %>p lean+ to ! "r is due
 to ! fact t "o day1 :5 ! sacri/an ( !  
*ur* fail$ to wake up 9 "t to r+ !      
angelus ! lady oblig+ly did x = him1 b  
wr5*$ h] sp9e 9 ! ef=t4 ,h] smug smirk (
 satisfaction1 z if ov] a duty well     
p]=m$1 no d\bt also dates f ! same      
incid5t4  ,h>dly less int]e/+ is !      
anci5t *ur* ( ,notre ,dame d',hanswyck1 
situat$ on ! same side ( ! ,dyle z ! o!r
 ,notre ,dame j describ$4 ,a *apel 0    
erect$ on ! site ( ?is *ur* soon aft] ! 
c\ntry 0 conv]t$ f paganism by ,/4      
,rombaut1 & a l>ge *ur* 0 built ne> !   
end ( ! ?irte5? c5tury4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 0  
pillag$ by ! iconocla/s 9 #aeff1 riddl$ 
by %ot f ! cannon ( ! ,pr9ce ( ,orange 9
 #aegb1 & f9ally completely demoli%$    
eight or n9e ye>s lat] by ! ,gueux4 ,x 0
 n until #affc t ! pres5t edifice 0     
begun4 ,x 0 design$ by ,luke ,faid'h]be1
 ! fam\s sculptor ( ,mal9es & a pupil ( 
,rub5s1 & 0 built "u 8 p]sonal          
sup]vision4 ,! *ur* itself is a v]itable

 museum ( ! works ( ?is ma/]4 ,! f9e/ & 
mo/ fam\s ( ^! are ! two bas-reliefs 9 !
 dome1 "o %[+ ,! ,nativity1 & ! o!r ,!  
,savi\r ,fall+ ,"u ! ,burd5 ( ! ,cross4 
,! pulpit1 by ,!odore ,v]haeg51 is a f9e
 example ( ,flemi% wood c>v+4 ,9 ?is    
*ur* ! *ief treasure1 f ! /&po9t ( its  
prie/s & p>i%ion]s1 is ! miracul\s /atue
 ( ! ,virg91 :i* dates f #ihh1 or e>li]1
 accord+ to "s au?orities4 ,x is made ( 
wood1 pa9t$ & gild$1 & is life size4 ,n 
! lea/ miracul\s feat ( ?is int]e/+     
relic ( ! ,middle ,ages is its escape f 
de/ruction1 at ! h&s ( ! iconocla/s1 !  
,gueux1 & ! ,fr5* revolutioni/s4 ,at !  
p]iod :5 ! *ur* itself 0 de/roy$ ! /atue
 0 hidd5 9 a secret subt]ranean passage 
= ne>ly a c5tury2 dur+ ! ,fr5*          
,revolution x 0 successively lodg$ 9    
v>i\s h\ses 9 ! rue d',hanswyck--ea* "t 
be+ replac$ 9 ! *ur*1 aft] ! dang] 0    
ov]1 amid great popul> rejoic+4  ,ano!r 
*ur* t is a small art gall]y is t ( ,/4 
,jean1 n f> f ! ca!dral4 ,"h is ! f9e   
,adoration ( ! ,magi1 by ,rub5s1 :i* _m 

critics consid] "o ( ! f\r be/ ( 8      
c]emonial works4 ,x 0 pa9t$ 9 #afag1 !  
ye> be=e ,! ,miracul\s ,draught (       
,fi%es1 at ,notre ,dame de la ,dyle1 :5 
! arti/ 0 fre% f 8 /udies 9 ,italy1 &   
be=e 8 success _h caus$ him to employ a 
?rong ( /ud5ts to assi/ 9 ! production (
 8 works4 ,fur!rmore1 x 0 execut$ = ?is 
v *ur*1 :i* /ill possesses 8 receipt = !
 f9al paym5t1 writt5 9 ,flemi%1 dat$    
,m>* #bd1 #afbd1 & sign$ by ! arti/1    
,pietro ,paulo ,rub5s4 ,! price 0       
eighte5 hundr$ flor9s1 b = good measure 
! *ur* obta9$ ?ree small pa9t+s by !    
great ma/] to be hung bel[ ! tripty*4 ,9
 #agid ^! pictures 7 tak5 to ,p>is & !  
,adoration ( ! ,magi 0 n re/or$ to its  
orig9al position until aft] ! fall (    
,napoleon4 ,two ( ! small pictures1 ,!  
,adoration ( ! ,%eph]ds & ,!            
,resurrection1 are n[ 9 ! museum (      
,m>seilles--hav+ nev] be5 return$--:ile 
! ?ird1 ,*ri/ on ! ,cross1 aft] *ang+   
h&s sev]al times1 0 at la/ pur*as$ by an
 amateur :o recognis$ its au?or%ip &    

hi/ory & re/or$ x to ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,jean4
 ,! two little pictures on ei!r side (  
x1 (t5 attribut$ to ,rub5s1 are by ,luc 
,fran*oys ! y\ng]4 ,?is *ur* also boa/s 
"s m>vell\s ,flemi% wood c>v+s4 ,ar\nd !
 two pill>s ( ! transept :]e x int]sects
 ! nave are "s bas-reliefs1 six         
altoge!r1 by ,!odore ,v]haeg5 & 8       
pupils1 t if !re 0 no?+ else to see w\ld
 alone ju/ify a visit to ,/4 ,jean1 :ile
 ! pulpit by ! same ma/]1 repres5t+ ,!  
,good ,%eph]d ,prea*+ to ,8 ,p1 is "o ( 
! mo/ notewor?y ( ! num]\s examples (   
pulpit c>v+ to be se5 9 ,fl&]s4 ,bel[ ! 
organ are two m admirable bas-reliefs   
c>v$ 9 ,flemi% oak by ,pi]re ,valckx1 a 
pupil ( ,v]haeg54  ,( ! _m o!r *ur*es 9 
! old t[n x w\ld be t$i\s to speak4     
,n[h]e 9 all ,fl&]s did we see s _m     
black-rob$ prie/s walk+ solemnly        
ab\t--al?\gh !y d n lack 9 any "p ( !   
c\ntry4 ,all ,belgium1 9 fact1 is full (
 prie/s1 monks & nuns1 ow+ to !         
expulsion ( ! religi\s ord]s f ,france  
"s ye>s ago4 ,we frequ5tly engag$ !m 9  

conv]sation to asc]ta9 m ab\t ! monum5ts
 we 7 visit+ & inv>iably f\nd !m c\rte\s
 & well-in=m$1 & n infrequ5tly we 7     
indebt$ to !m = sugge/ions or in=mation 
( mu* value4 ,at ! same "t1 x mu/ be    
said t x seems to a layman z ?\gh !re   
are f> too _m = s small a c\ntry1 b _!  
f9e _s ( devotion dur+ ! w>--:5 ?\s&s ( 
!m %>$ *e]fully ! h>d%ips ( ! soldi]s--w
 nev] be =gott54  ,( ! civil edifices 9 
,mal9es ! mo/ important is ! ,hotel de  
,ville4 ,ar*itecturally x is disappo9t+1
 save = ! old] portion1 :i* 0 call$     
,beya]d1 & 0 pur*as$ by ! commune 9     
#achc4 ,! great] "p ( ! edifice 0       
recon/ruct$ dur+ ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,!  
_m rooms 9 ! int]ior are pleas+ b h>dly 
notable1 nor are ! pa9t+s & sculptures  
important save to ! hi/orian4 ,9 !      
,vieux ,palais1 ! room 9 :i* ! ,great   
,c\ncil ( ! ,ne!rl&s held its sessions f
 #adgd to #afah1 is /ill pres]v$ 9 its  
orig9al /ate1 :ile "o ( ! anci5t pa9t+s 
on ! wall %[s ! ,c\ncil 9 session4 ,9   
?is build+ also is ! curi\s /atuette ( !

 ,vuyle ,bruydegom call$ ,op-,signork51 
^: gr9n+ face & qua9t m$ival co/ume are 
reproduc$ on _m po/c>ds4 ,! hi/ory ( ?is
 wor?y is be/ told 9 ,fr5*--& 9 :isp]s6 
,illu/ration3 ,,9 ,,het ,,p>adijs ,,&   
,,maison ,,des ,,diables3 ,,two         
,,fifte5? ,,c5tury ,,h\ses1 ,,mal9es4   
,9 our tramps ar\nd ! n>r[1 crook$      
/reets ( ! old t[n1 & along its         
picturesque quays1 we f\nd _m f9e       
examples ( fifte5? & sixte5? c5tury     
ar*itecture4 ,on ! ,quai au ,sel is !   
,h\se ( ! ,salmon1 ! anci5t guildh\se ( 
! fi%mong]s1 :i* dates f #aecj1 & on !  
,quai aux ,avo9es we visit$ ! little    
e/am9et entitl$ ,9 het ,p>adijs1 ) its  
two pa9t$ reliefs ( ! ,fall & ,expulsion
 f ,ed51 & ! ,maison des ,diables--s    
call$ f ! c>v$ devils t decorate its    
wood5 faade ( ! sixte5? c5tury4 ,! ,gr& 
,pont across ! ,dyle to ^! old quays    
itself dates f ! ?irte5? c5tury1 z its  
grimy ar*es te/ify4  ,aft] ! defeat &   
dea? ( ,*>les ! ,bold at ,nancy 8 wid[1 
,m>g>et ( ,york1 transf]r$ h] resid5ce  

to ,mal9es1 & "h %e rais$ & educat$ !   
two *ildr5 ( h] daught]1 ,m>ie (        
,burgundy1 ,philip ! ,h&some & ,m>g>et (
 ,au/ria4 ,_! fa!r1 ! ,emp]or           
,maximilian1 0 s occupi$ ) affairs (    
/ate ov] 8 widely scatt]$ realm t he    
seldom came to ! city1 b f #adhj onw>d !
 ,/ates ,g5]al ( ! ,ne!rl&s (t5 met "h1 
& 9 #adia ,philip ! ,h&some presid$ at a
 *apt] ( ! ,ord] ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece at !
 ca!dral ( ,/4 ,rombaut4 ,on 8 premature
 dea?1 9 #aejf1 ,maximilian aga9 became 
,reg5t1 z ,philip's elde/ son ,*>les 0  
b>ely six ye>s old4 ,! foll[+ ye>       
,maximilian made 8 daught] ,m>g>et (    
,au/ria ,gov]ness-,g5]al ( ! ,ne!rl&s & 
gu>dian ( ,philip's *ildr54 ,m>g>et at  
once *ose ,mal9es1 :]e %e _h h]self be5 
educat$1 z h] seat ( gov]nm5t & !re %e  
reign$ z ,reg5t until h] dea? tw5ty-?ree
 ye>s lat]4 ,?is p]iod 0 ! gold5 age 9 !
 hi/ory ( ! city on ! ,dyle1 its brief  
day ( spl5d\r4  ,9 h] infancy ,m>g>et _h
 be5 betro!d to ! son ( ! ,k+ ( ,france1
 ,l\is ,,xi--! cunn+ enemy ( h] h\se ^: 

plots _h br\ght ab\t ! ru9 ( h] gr&fa!r1
 ,*>les ! ,bold4 ,%e 0 only ?ree1 & !   
,pr9ce ,dauph91 aft]w>ds ,*>les !       
,eigh?1 0 only twelve4 ,n9e ye>s lat] a 
m advantage\s alliance caus$ him to     
r5\nce ?is betro?al1 & ,m>g>et 0        
subsequ5tly m>ri$ by proxy to ! son ( ! 
,k+ ( ,spa94 ,on h] voyage f ,flu%+ to  
,spa9 a /orm arose :i* ne>ly wreck$ h]  
%ip1 & aft] x _h some:at subsid$ %e & h]
 companions amus$ !mselves by ea* writ+ 
h] own epitaph4 ,t compos$ by ,m>g>et1  
!n a sprightly girl ( eighte51 is well  
kn[n3      ,cy gi/ ,m>got la g5til'     
,damoiselle1     ,qu' ha deux m>ys et   
encor e/ pucelle4  ,ev5tually1 h[ev]1 %e
 arriv$ safely at ,burgos1 b h] "y      
husb&1 ,pr9ce ,john ( ,a/urias1 di$     
sudd5ly sev5 mon?s lat] ( a malignant   
fev]4 ,at ! age ( n9ete51 !re=e1 ,m>g>et
 _h already miss$ be+ ,que5 ( ,france & 
,que5 ( ,spa94 ,aft] two ye>s at !      
,spani% c\rt1 :]e %e 0 v popul>1 %e     
return$ to ,fl&]s1 arriv+ 9 #aejj1 j 9  
"t to be "o ( ! godmo!rs at ! *ri/5+ (  

h] nephew1 ,*>les1 at ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,jean
 9 ,gh5t4 ,! foll[+ ye> ,m>g>et m>ri$   
,philib]t ,,ii1 ,duke ( ,savoy1 surnam$ 
! ,h&some1 :o 0 ! same age z h]self4    
,?is "t h] m>ri$ life prov$ to be only a
 little long] ?an ! o!r1 = h] husb& di$ 
9 #aejd4 ,left twice a wid[ :ile /ill 9 
! bloom ( y\?1 ! ,du*ess devot$ h]self  
to poetry & ! erection ( a *ur* at ,br\ 
9 h] second husb&'s du*y ( ,savoy4      
,!re1 on ! walls1 woodwork1 /a9$ glass  
w9d[s & tombs %e repeat$ h] la/ motto3  
,,=tune 4 ,,in=tune 4 ,,=t 4 ,,une  :i* 
has g5]ally be5 int]pret$ to mean t     
,=tune & ,mis=tune h tri$ sorely 7=t7 "o
 lone woman 7une74  ,! palace ( ,m>g>et 
( ,york /ood on ! rue de l',emp]eur1 :]e
 "s ve/iges ( x /ill rema91 b ,m>g>et ( 
,savoy & ( ,au/ria f\nd ?is edifice     
inadequate to ! requirem5ts ( a ,reg5t &
 acquir$ ! ,hotel de ,savoy opposite4   
,?is has be5 re/or$ & is n[ us$ z !     
,palais de ,ju/ice1 b--ap>t f its pretty
 c\rty>d & "o f9e fireplace--we f\nd v  
little to recall ! glories ( ! p]iod :5 

! great m5 ( all ! ,ne!rl&s ga!r$ "h4 ,!
 edifice 0 l>gely recon/ruct$ by        
,rombaut ,keld]mans1 & x 0 "h t !       
boyhood ( ! future ,emp]or ,*>les !     
,fif? 0 pass$1 wat*$ ov] by 8 ,aunt     
,m>g>et4 ,at ! "t ( h] accession z      
,reg5t ,m>g>et 0 tw5ty-sev5 ye>s old--a 
fair "y woman ) gold5 hair1 r\nd$ *eeks1
 a grave m\?1 & beautiful cle> eyes1    
accord+ to "o obs]v]4 ,h] fa!r1 !       
,emp]or ,maximilian1 0 v fond & pr\d (  
h]1 & ! greate/ treasure 9 ! libr>y 9 ! 
,vieux ,palais is a graduale1 or        
hymnbook1 :i* he pres5t$ to h] 9        
recognition ( h] s]vices 9 educat+ 8    
gr&*ildr54 ,on "o ( ! pages 9 ?is book  
is an illum9at$ picture %[+ ,maximilian 
himself seat$ on a ?rone surm\nt$ by !  
arms ( ,au/ria1 ) ,m>g>et & ! y\?ful    
,*>les & 8 si/] =m+ "p ( ! gr\p ga!r$ 9 
front ( him4 ,! o!r illu/rations 9 ?is  
priceless volume1 all ( :i* we 7 p]mitt$
 to exam9e1 consi/ ( religi\s subjects4 
,! ev5ts connect$ ) ! reg5cy ( ,m>g>et (
 ,au/ria belong to ! hi/ory ( ,europe4  

,m ?an once %e aid$ h] fa!r 9 solv+ !   
great problems ( gov]nm5t & diplomacy ) 
:i* he 0 confront$1 notably 9 ! prom95t 
"p %e took 9 ! negotiations result+ 9 ! 
,league ( ,cambrai1 :i* 0 direct$ aga9/ 
,france--! nation to :i* %e always %[$  
an unrel5t+ ho/ility = ! slight put ^u  
h] 9 *ildhood4 ,9 #aeaf ,*>les became ( 
age1 & two ye>s lat]--:ile ! new ,k+ (  
,spa9 0 visit+ 8 ,spani%                
subjects--,m>g>et 0 aga9 proclaim$      
,reg5t ( ! ,ne!rl&s4 ,9 #aeai           
,maximilian di$1 & five mon?s lat]      
,*>les 0 elect$ ,k+ ( ! ,romans1 & 0    
*os5 ,emp]or ! foll[+ ye>1 succe$+ to ! 
wide/ dom9ions ev] rul$ ov] by "o man 9 
! hi/ory ( ,europe4 ,9 fact x is d\btful
 if any sov]eign s9ce has ex]cis$ s va/ 
a p[]1 z ! ,k+s & ,emp]ors ( lat] ye>s h
 _h _! au?ority m re/rict$1 :ile t (    
,*>les 0 absolute4  ,9 #aebi ,m>g>et    
br\ght ab\t ! negotiations t result$ 9 !
 fam\s ,ladies' ,peace betwe5 ! ,pope1 !
 ,emp]or ,*>les1 & ! ,k+s ( ,france1    
,engl& & ,bohemia4 ,m>g>et repres5t$    

,spa91 & ,l\ise ( ,savoy1 h] si/]-9-law 
& ! "m ( ,francis1 ! ,k+ ( ,france1     
repres5t$ t mon>*4 ,! result ( !        
conf]5ces 0 a treaty t 0 highly         
advantage\s to ,spa91 & a great         
diplomatic victory = ,m>g>et2 b z all   
,europe 0 tir$ ( w> ! t]ms 7 accept$ &  
peace proclaim$ amid great popul>       
rejoic+s1 ! f\nta9s at ,cambrai fl[+ w9e
 in/ead ( wat]4 ,! spl5did mantelpiece 9
 ! ,hotel de ,franc at ,bruges 0 erect$ 
to commemorate ?is treaty1 al?\gh x     
h>dly does ju/ice to ! prom95t "p tak5  
by ,m>g>et 9 negotiat+ x4 ,! conclusion 
( ! ,treaty ( ,cambrai m>ks ! climax (  
,m>g>et's c>e] & also t ( ! ,h\se (     
,au/ria4 ,9 addition to ! va/ empire    
rul$ ov] by ,*>les1 8 bro!r ,f]d9& 0 ,k+
 ( ,bohemia1 & 8 si/]s ,eleanor1        
,isabel1 ,m>ie & ,ka!r9e1 ,que5s (      
,france1 ,d5m>k1 ,hung>y & ,portugal    
respectively4 ,all ow$ _! brilliant     
positions to ! pati5ce & skill ( _!     
,aunt ,m>g>et :o1 z h] correspond5ce    
%[s1 0 look+ =w>d to ! "t :5 %e c\ld h& 

ov] ! gov]nm5t ( ! ,ne!rl&s to ! ,emp]or
 & sp5d h] rema9+ days 9 quiet          
seclusion4  ,"u h] wise rule ! ,ne!rl&s 
_h atta9$ ! greate/ prosp]ity ev] kn[n4 
,indu/ry & comm]ce fl\ri%$1 peace &     
safety reign$ ?r\gh\t h] broad dom9ions4
 ,at h] c\rt 9 ,mal9es ,m>g>et ga!r$ a  
brilliant gr\p ( arti/s1 poets & m5 (   
lett]s4 ,mabuse 7,jan ,gossa]t71 ,b]n>d 
,van ,orley & ,mi*el ,coxcie 7 among !  
fam\s ,flemi% arti/s patronis$ by !     
,du*ess4 ,rombaut ,keld]mans receiv$ _m 
commissions z ar*itect f ! great ,lady (
 ,savoy & h] ,imp]ial nephew = important
 edifices n only at ,mal9es b at        
,antw]p1 ,brussels1 ,gh5t & ?r\gh\t !   
,l[ ,c\ntries4 ,9 #adea ! ,pope1        
,ni*olas ,v1 _h proclaim$ a ,holy ,ye>  
at ,mal9es & enorm\s numb]s ( pilgrims  
visit$ ! city 9 consequ5ce4 ,_! lavi%   
gifts made possible ! rapid erection (  
mo/ ( ! spl5did religi\s edifices ) :i* 
! city is s amply provid$1 & x 0 dur+ ! 
reign ( ,m>g>et t ^! /ructures 7        
complet$ & decorat$4 ,among ! beautiful 

build+s execut$ dur+ ?is p]iod may be   
m5tion$ ! ,belfry at ,bruges1 ! t[] (   
,/4 ,rombaut1 ! ,hotel de ,ville at     
,gh5t1 ! spire ( ! ca!dral at ,antw]p1 !
 ca!dral ( ,/e4 ,gudule at ,brussels1 & 
_m m9or *ur*es ?r\gh\t ! ,l[ ,c\ntries4 
,m>g>et display$ r>e ta/e = works ( art1
 & h] palace 0 a v]itable treasure h\se 
( ma/]pieces1 z an inv5tory prep>$ at h]
 direction %[s4 ,"o ( ! mo/ fam\s ( ^! 0
 ! portrait ( ,jean ,arnolf9i & 8 wife  
by ,jean ,van ,eyck1 :i*--aft] _m       
vicissitudes--has n[ f\nd a p]man5t re/+
 place 9 ! ,national ,gall]y at ,london1
 unless "s militant suffragette adds    
ano!r *apt] to its *equ]$ hi/ory4 ,ano!r
 treasure has be5 less =tunate1 namely !
 portrait ( ,la belle ,portugalaise1    
wife ( ,philip ! ,good1 :i* 0 pa9t$ by  
,jean ,van ,eyck "u circum/ances already
 describ$ 9 ano!r *apt]4 ,?is fam\s     
picture disappe>$ dur+ ! religi\s w>s & 
has nev] be5 discov]$4 ,! inv5tory li/s 
a great _m o!r pa9t+s1 ( :i* "s are /ill
 9 exi/5ce & "s h be5 lo/4 ,!           

descriptions are (t5 qua9t & *>m+1 & may
 h be5 dictat$ by ! ,du*ess h]self1 z = 
example3 ,une petite ,no/re-,dame disant
 ses heures1 faicte de la ma9 de ,mi*el 
7,coxcie7 que ,madame appelle sa        
mignonne et le petit dieu dort1 & ,ung  
petit p>adis ou sont t\xs les aptres4   
,o!r arti/s ( note 9 ! collection 7     
,b]n>d ,van ,orley1 ,hans ,meml+1 ,rog] 
,van d] ,weyd51 ,di]ick ,b\ts1 ,j]ome   
,bos* & ,g]>d ,horemb\t4  ,illu/ration3 
,,portrait ,,( ,,jean ,,arnolf9i ,,& ,,8
 ,,wife ,,by ,,jean ,,van ,,eyck4       
,among ! m5 ( lett]s :om ,m>g>et ga!r$  
ar\nd h] 7 ,jean ,mol9et1 h] libr>ian & 
a poet :o (t5 celebrat$ h] *>ms2 ,jean  
,lemaire de ,belges1 :o became h]       
hi/orian2 ,erasmus1 ,nicolas ,ev]>d1    
,adrian ( ,utre*t1 ,cornelius ,agrippa1 
,mass1 ,rnacle de ,flor5nes1 ,l\is      
,vivs1 & _m o!rs4 ,h] libr>y 0 z *oice z
 h] collection ( pa9t+s & includ$ a     
,book ( ,h\rs & sev]al o!r illum9at$    
manuscripts n[ 9 ! ,biblio!que ,royale  
at ,brussels1 & _m ( ! m$ival classics4 

,hi/ory records few great p]sonages ^:  
p]sonality1 consid]$ f e aspect1 is m   
pleas+ ?an t ( ?is graci\s lady1 ^: v   
pets are kn[n to u ?r\gh ! frequ5t      
ref]5ces made to !m by h] lit]>y        
c\rti]s4 ,h] c>e]1 ?\gh %ad$ by sadness 
& disappo9tm5t1 0 a great & noble "o1 &1
 :ile %e liv$1 ! l& ov] :i* %e rul$     
rema9$ 9 almo/ un9t]rupt$ peace &       
prosp]ity--! w>s ( ! ,emp]or be+ = ! mo/
 "p wag$ f> away on ! pla9s ( ,italy or 
9 ,france4  ,on ! la/ day ( ,novemb]1   
#aecj1 ! ,reg5t ,m>g>et pass$ away at h]
 palace at ,mal9es 9 ! fiftie? ye> ( h] 
age & ! tw5ty-?ird ( h] reg5cy4 ,=      
=ty-five days ! bells ( ! *ur*es ?r\gh\t
 ! city toll$ at morn+1 noon & night 9  
expression ( ! pr(\nd grief ( ! p at _! 
great loss4 ,! dirges may well h be5 = !
 dep>ture ( ! city's greatness z well1 =
 ! dea? ( its great patroness prov$ !   
beg9n+ ( its decl9e4 ,! new ,reg5t1     
,m>ie ( ,hung>y1 remov$ h] c\rt to      
,brussels1 & al?\gh ,mal9es1 by way (   
comp5sation1 0 made ! seat ( an         

ar*-bi%opric x nev] recov]$ its =m]     
spl5d\r & sank rapidly into ! quiet t[n 
t x 0 :5 ! great w> add$ a new & tragic 
*apt] to its hi/ory4     ,,*apt] ,,xvi  
,,gh5t ,,"u ,,*>les ,,! ,,fif?--,,&     
,,s9ce   ,b = ! great disa/] at ,nancy1 
x is altoge!r probable t ,*>les ! ,bold 
w\ld1 be=e v long1 h s\ght to *a/ise !  
burgh]s ( ,gh5t z he did ^? ( ,lige1 b 8
 unexpect$ dea?1 & ! ru9 ( 8 plans1 gave
 ! citiz5s at lea/ a brief p]iod (      
respite f ! tyranny t _h be5 press+ m & 
m heavily ^u !m s9ce ! bloody sea (     
,gavre4 ,8 daught]1 ,m>ie1 0 only n9ete5
 :5 h] fa!r's fall plac$ h] at ! m]cy ( 
! turbul5t communes1 & at ,gh5t z well z
 ,bruges %e 0 =c$ to grant a *>t] re/or+
 ! _m privileges t ,*>les & ,philip !   
,good _h tak5 away4 ,%e 0 ev5 helpless  
to save ! lives ( two ( h] mo/ tru/$    
c\nsellors1 :o 7 accus$ by ! m5 ( ,gh5t 
( trea*]\s correspond5ce ) _! wily      
enemy1 ,l\is ,,xi1 &--9 spite ( h]      
entreaties & te>s 9 _! behalf 9 ! ,m>*  
de ,v5dr$i--7 publicly behead$ 9 ! fir/ 

ye> ( h] brief reign4  ,%ortly aft] !   
untimely dea? ( ?is pr9cess ^: popul>ity
 might h held ! communes 9 *eck1 h]     
husb&1 ,maximilian1 began ! long w> t   
f9ally result$ 9 e/abli%+ 8 au?ority ov]
 all ( ,fl&]s4 ,?is accompli%$1 he      
e/abli%$ 8 daught]1 ,m>g>et ( ,au/ria1 z
 ,reg5t & dur+ ! tw5ty-?ree ye>s ( h]   
wise & g5tle reign ! c\ntry rema9$ = !  
mo/ "p at peace & its comm]ce &         
prosp]ity return$4  ,x 0 dur+ ! /ruggle 
) ,maximilian t ! ,rabot 0 con/ruct$ at 
,gh5t1 9 #adhi4 ,! previ\s ye> ! ,emp]or
 ,fr$]ick ,,iii1 fa!r ( ,maximilian1 _h 
?reat5$ ! city at ?is po9t1 :]e its     
=tifications 7 weake/1 & ! two fam\s    
po9t$ t[]s 7 built z "p ( ! protective  
works design$ to r5d] a simil> attack   
impossible4 ,al?\gh some:at mutilat$ 9  
#ahfj1 ! tw9 t[]s /ill /&1 & ) ! curi\s 
int]v5+ /ructure con/itute "o ( ! f9e/  
bits ( milit>y ar*itecture ( ! fifte5?  
c5tury t has come d[n to u4             
,hi/orically1 !y =m a monum5t ( !       
victory ga9$ by ! commune ov] ,fr$]ick &

 8 son 9 _! fir/ attempt to curtail its 
lib]ties & privileges4  ,on ! #bd? (    
,febru>y ( ! ye> #aejj ! city ( ,gh5t   
le>n$ t a baby boy _h be5 born at ! ,c\r
 de ,pr9ces1 to its sov]eigns1 ,philip !
 ,h&some & ,joanna ( ,spa91 :o 0 de/9$  
to become ! mo/ p[]ful mon>* 9 ! _w4 ,on
 ! day :5 ?is =tunate baby 0 baptis$ ) !
 "n ( ,*>les1 ! city gave itself up to  
rejoic+s t might well h be5 temp]$ _h x 
kn[n ! fate t 0 9 /ore = x at ! h&s (   
its illu/ri\s son =ty ye>s lat]4 ,z x 01
 joy reign$1 & at night t5 ?\s& flam+   
tor*es fl>$1 ! great dragon 9 ! belfry  
sp\t$ ,greek fire1 & on a rope susp5d$ f
 ! top ( ! belfry to ! spire ( ,/4      
,ni*olas a tight-rope danc] p]=m$       
prodigies ( skill = ! *e]+ cr[ds t      
?rong$ ! /reets bel[4  ,fifte5 ye>s     
lat]1 :5 ,*>les 0 decl>$ ( age1 x 0 at  
,gh5t t he 0 proclaim$ ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s4  
,! foll[+ ye> he became ,k+ ( ,spa91 & 9
 #aebj ,emp]or2 ?us at ! age ( tw5ty    
rul+ ov] all ! ,ne!rl&s1 ,g]many1       
,au/ria1 ,nor!rn ,italy1 ,spa9 & ! va/  

empire 9 ! new _w--!n 9 c\rse ( conque/ 
by ,pizz>o1 ,corts & ! o!r ,spani%      
conqui/adores4 ,:ile ! city's mo/ fam\s 
son 0 advanc+ to ! z5i? ( human p[] &   
weal?1 its own =tunes 7 /eadily decl9+4 
,! long conte/ ) ,maximilian & !        
competition ( ,engl& _h /ruck a dea? bl[
 to ! clo? indu/ry1 :i* langui%$ = a "t 
& !n gradually decay$ & disappe>$4 ,!   
,clo? ,hall 0 !re=e left unf9i%$1 :i*   
acc\nts = its insignificance z comp>$ ) 
simil> /ructures 9 o!r ,flemi% t[ns :]e 
! textile trade 0 f> less important ?an 
t ( ,gh5t 9 ! days ( its greate/        
prosp]ity4 ,! city cont9u$1 h[ev]1 to be
 ! c5tre ( ! gra9 trade z be=e1 & ! f9e 
faade ( ! ,maison des ,bateli]s 7,h\se (
 ! ,boatm5's ,guild71 on ! ,quai au ,bl1
 0 built at ?is epo*1 9 #aecd4          
,illu/ration3 ,photograph by ,e4 ,sacr4 
,,maison ,,de ,,la ,,keure1 ,,hotel ,,de
 ,,ville1 ,,gh5t4  ,a /ill m notable    
/ructure1 ! ,hotel de ,ville1 dates 9 "p
 f ! "t ( ,*>les4 ,?is edifice 9 reality
 comprises a gr\p ( build+s erect$ at   

diff]5t epo*s & = div]se purposes4      
,ar*itecturally ! mo/ beautiful ( ^! is 
! ,maison de la ,keure1 :i* =ms ! corn] 
( ! ,m>* au ,beurre & ! rue ,haut ,port1
 ext5d+ = mo/ ( its l5g? on ! latt]     
some:at n>r[ /reet4 ,?is 0 design$ &    
built by ,dom9ique de ,wagh5ak]e (      
,antw]p & ! fam\s ,rombaut ,keld]mans ( 
,mal9es1 & 0 erect$ betwe5 #aeah &      
#aecd4 ,! actual edifice repres5ts only 
a qu>t] ( ! f9e design ( ! ar*itects &  
lacks an entire /ory ) v>i\s decorative 
features :i* w\ld h greatly improv$ its 
appe>ance & made x "o ( ! f9e/ ,hotels  
de ,ville 9 ,fl&]s4 ,z x is1 ?is "p is  
by f> ! be/ ( ! entire /ructure4 ,!     
,maison des ,p>*ons fac+ ! ,m>* au      
,beurre 0 built 9 #afjj to #afbj & is 9 
! ,italian ,r5aissance /yle & va/ly     
inf]ior to ! f9e ,go?ic /ructure ( a    
c5tury e>li]4 ,! o!r portion ( ! build+ 
comprises a ,hall = ! ,/ates ( ,fl&]s1 9
 ! ruelle de ,hotel de ,ville1 built 9 !
 sev5te5? & eighte5? c5turies2 ! gr&e   
conci]g]ie jo9+ ?is to ! e>li] ,go?ic   

,maison de la ,keure & built 9 #agjj2 & 
a ,*ambre des ,pauvres built by ord] (  
,*>les ,v 9 #aeca1 ( :i* ! pres5t faade 
dates f #agej4  ,! inn] rooms ( ?is     
collection ( build+s1 ( diff]5t ages &  
diff]5t ar*itectural /yles1 are (       
relatively m9or int]e/4 ,! ,gr&e ,salle 
de ,ju/ice de la ,keure is some:at      
impos+ ) its l>ge fireplace1 b its lack 
( o!r decorations makes x r cold &      
gloomy & we 7 glad to leave x4 ,mu* m   
beautiful is ! ,salle de l',ars5al1     
built half a c5tury lat]4 ,9 ! ,*apel ( 
,/4 ,john ! ,bapti/1 :i* adjo9s ! ,salle
 de ,ju/ice 9 ! mo/ anci5t "p ( !       
edifice1 & is n[ us$ z a ,salle des     
,m>iages1 is a f9e picture repres5t+    
,m>ie ( ,burgundy begg+ h] p to =give   
,hugonet & ,humb]c\rt1 h] two m9i/]s    
:o--despite h] te>ful pleas--7 execut$ 9
 ! ,place ,/e4 ,ph>alde h>d by4  ,on !  
dea? ( ,m>g>et ( ,au/ria ! ,emp]or      
appo9t$ 8 si/]1 ,m>ie ( ,hung>y1 ,reg5t 
( ! ,ne!rl&s4 ,! /eady decl9e ( its     
trade & ! increas+ pov]ty ( ! p caus$ ! 

city ( ,gh5t to see! ) discont5t1 & 9   
#aeci an outbreak occurr$ t gave !      
,reg5t great al>m4 ,"u ! lead]%ip ( a   
gr\p ( demagogues ! ,mti]s or l[]       
associations ( artisans1 ov]aw$ !       
magi/rates & seiz$ ,liv9 ,pyn1 an ag$ & 
hon\rable memb] ( ! ,c\ncil & ,dean ( ! 
,mti]s :o 0 unju/ly accus$ ( giv+ !     
,que5 ,reg5t a false report on !        
situation & ( hav+ /ol5 ! great bann] ( 
! city4 ,?is un=tunate old man 0        
subject$ to fe>ful tortures 9 ! ,*teau  
des ,comtes1 b resolutely refus$ to     
confess to any ( ! acts *>g$ aga9/ him4 
,nev]!less1 he 0 f9ally execut$ on !    
,place ,/e4 ,ph>alde--"o ( ! mo/ pitiful
 & unju/ ( ! _m cruel trag$ies enact$   
!re4 ,brok5 & weak5$ f ! tortures to :i*
 he _h be5 subject$1 he _h to be c>ri$  
to ! place ( execution1 :]e 8           
indomitable _s 0 su* t be=e b[+ be=e !  
axe ( ! execution] he /]nly reproa*$ 8  
judges ) _! c[>dice1 & pr$ict$ t ! p    
w\ld soon h occasion to regret ! fatu\s 
c\rse !y 7 pursu+4  ,! dy+ old man spoke

 ! tru?4 ,! ,emp]or 0 !n 9 ,spa9 &      
matt]s connect$ ) ! gov]nm5t ( 8        
_w-encircl+ realm dem&$ = ! mom5t 8     
att5tion1 b he 0 none ! less kept well  
in=m$ z to :at 0 go+ on 9 8 native city1
 :]e affairs mean:ile progress$ f bad to
 worse1 until a v]itable /ate ( an>*y   
prevail$4 ,:5 ,*>les le>n$ ( ! virtual  
insurrection aga9/ 8 au?ority t         
prevail$1 & ( ! dea? ( ,liv9 ,pyn1 he 0 
furi\s & v[$ to inflict ^u ! rebelli\s  
city a v5geance t w\ld det] all o!r     
cities 9 ! empire f ev] foll[+ its      
example4 ,sl[ly1 b ) a delib]at5ess t   
bod$ ill = ! foolh>dy rabble :o = !     
mom5t guid$ ! de/9ies ( ! commune1 !    
,emp]or made 8 prep>ations = a trip to !
 ,l[ ,c\ntries4 ,two mon?s aft] !       
execution ( ,pyn x became kn[n 9 ! city 
t _! puissant sov]eign 0 on 8 way4 ,!   
news fill$ ! mut9e]s ) t]ror4 ,no long] 
0 ,gh5t 9 ! pr\d position %e _h occupi$ 
"u ! ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s & ! fir/ ,dukes (  
,burgundy--! premi] city ( ! realm & a  
foe to be respect$ & ev5 fe>$4 ,! p[] ( 

,*>les ,v 0 too va/ = ev5 ! mo/ ignorant
 to ?9k ( arm$ resi/ance to 8 au?ority1 
n[ t he 0 ab\t to ass]t x 9 p]son4 ,_m (
 ^? responsible = ! p]iod ( an>*y fl$1  
o!rs w5t into hid+4  ,e>ly 9 ! ye> #aedj
 ! ,emp]or arriv$ at ,cambrai1 proce$+  
next to ,val5ci5nes & ,brussels4        
,mean:ile a /rong =ce ( ,g]man soldi]s  
ent]$ ! city--meet+ ) no resi/ance f its
 n[ ?or\ghly t]rifi$ inhabitants1 _m (  
:om no d\bt wi%$ !y c\ld re/ore ! dead  
,doy5 des ,mti]s1 :om !y _h s cruelly   
sacrific$1 to life aga9 t he might plead
 _! cause ) ! dread$ ,emp]or4 ,!y _h    
good reason to tremble1 = 9 a few days !
 r+-lead]s ( ! late tr\bles began to be 
arre/$ & all m5 7 =bidd51 "u p5alty (   
dea?1 to h>b\r !m or aid !m to escape _!
 sov]eign's wra?4 ,a few days lat] n9e (
 ! mut9e]s 7 execut$ on ! ,place ,/e4   
,ph>alde :]e ,liv9 ,pyn _h p]i%$ at _!  
h&s six mon?s be=e4 ,! magi/rates 7 n[  
fill$ ) t]ror & abjectly plead$ = m]cy4 
,! ,emp]or haughtily repli$ t he knew h[
 to be m]ciful & also h[ to d ju/ice1 & 

t he w\ld pres5tly give judgm5t on !    
city 9 su* a mann] t x w\ld nev] be     
=gott5 & o!rs w\ld take !refrom an      
example4  ,?is disquiet+ response 0     
foll[$ by ! ,emp]or's fam\s visit to !  
top ( ! ca!dral t[] 9 company ) ! ,duke 
( ,alva4 ,x 0 on ?is occasion t ! latt]1
 ) ! f]ocity t aft]w>ds made 8 "n a     
by-^w = cruelty = future ages1 c\nsell$ 
8 sov]eign to utt]ly de/roy ! rebelli\s 
city4 ,to ?is ! ,emp]or respond$ ) ! bon
 mot t %[$ at once 8 s5se ( hum\r & 8   
mod]ation4 ,po9t+ to ! wide-spread+ r$  
ro(s ( ! popul\s city he ask$1 ,h[ _m   
,spani% sk9s d y ?9k x w\ld take to make
 a glove 7,g&1 ! ,fr5* spell+ ( ,gh5t1  
also means glove7 z l>ge z ?is8         
,illu/ration3 ,,portrait ,,( ,,! ,,duke 
,,( ,,alva ,,by ,a4 ,,moro4  ,mean:ile1 
"u ! direct sup]vision ( ! ,emp]or1 a   
huge citadel began to be erect$ on !    
site ( ! anci5t little t[n surr\nd+ !   
,abbey ( ,/4 ,bavon--a *oice t involv$ !
 de/ruction ( _m ( ! ,abbey build+s4 ,! 
,emp]or1 :ile ?is "w 0 go+ on1 rema9$ at

 ! ,pr9c5h( :]e he held 8 c\rt1 b gave  
no sign z to :at ! fate ( ! city 0 to   
be4 ,x 0 n until ,april #bi?1 #aedj1 t  
he f9ally--9 ! pres5ce ( a great ?rong (
 pr9ces1 nobles & ! memb]s ( 8 ,gr&     
,c\ncil1 ) ! city magi/rates on _! knees
 at 8 feet--gave 8 long delay$ decision4
 ,9 a l\d voice ! ,imp]ial h]ald fir/   
read a li/ ( ?irty-five crimes committ$ 
by ! p ( ! city1 decl>+ !m guilty (     
dslalt1 dsobyssance1 infraction de      
traicts1 s$ition1 rbellion et de        
lze-mage/4 ,9 consequ5ce ( ^! crimes !  
s5t5ce depriv$ !m =ev] ( _! privileges1 
rights1 & fran*ises4 ,x direct$ t !     
*>t]s1 toge!r ) ! r$ & black books 9 :i*
 !y 7 regi/]$1 %\ld be turn$ ov] to !   
,emp]or to d ) !m z he pleas$1 & x 0    
=bidd5 ev] aga9 to invoke or appeal to  
!m4 ,x pron\nc$ ! confiscation ( all !  
goods1 r5ts1 rev5ues1 h\ses1 artill]y & 
w> mat]ial belong+ to ! city or to !    
,mti]s4 ,x confiscat$ ! great bell ,rol&
 & decre$ t x mu/ be tak5 d[n4 ,x fur!r 
direct$ t ?ree days lat] ! magi/rates1  

?irty memb]s ( ! b\rgeois or middle     
class1 ! ,doy5 ( ! weav]s1 six m5 f ea* 
,mti] & fifty crees]s %\ld beg p>don ( !
 ,emp]or & ,que54 ,! suppliants on ?is  
occasion 7 dress$ 9 black1 ) heads &    
feet b>e1 & cords ab\t _! necks1 & 7    
compell$ to beg ! p>don ( ! ,emp]or on  
_! knees 9 ! m>ket-place4 ,besides ?is  
public degradation ! magi/rates 7       
requir$ to we> ! cords ab\t _! necks    
!reaft] dur+ ! ex]cise ( _! functions4  
,x is said1 h[ev]1 t be=e v long ! hemp 
0 conv]t$ into a ri* cord ( gold & silk1
 :i* !y wore z a sc>f--z if x 7 a badge 
( hon\r in/ead ( "o ( disgrace4  ,!     
walls ( ! city 7 to be /ill fur!r       
demoli%$1 & ! sov]eign res]v$ ! "r to   
specify lat] :i* t[]s1 gates & walls    
%\ld be torn d[n to erect ! citadel4    
,f9ally1 a heavy money indemnity 0      
exact$1 & ! foll[+ day a new code ( laws
 9 sixty-five articles 0 promulgat$--!  
fam\s ,concession ,c>ol9e--:i* s]v$ z ! 
basis ( gov]nm5t until ! end ( ! old    
rgime dur+ ! ,fr5* ,revolution4 ,! city1

 no d\bt1 brea!d a sigh ( relief t !    
,emp]or exact$ no fur!r toll ( human    
life1 b ! conditions 7 none ! less heavy
 en\gh4 ,9 brief1 ^! t]ms end$1 once & =
 all1 e ve/ige ( self-gov]nm5t1 & swept 
away all ( ! privileges = :i* ! burgh]s 
_h f\ght = s _m c5turies4 ,! ye> #aedj  
m>ks ! end1 !re=e1 ( ! long & brilliant 
hi/ory ( ! ,flemi% communes--= no o!r   
city d>$ resi/ ! ,emp]or's au?ority aft]
 ?is--& !reaft] ,fl&]s became a m]e     
prov9ce 9 ! wide dom9ions ( sov]eigns :o
 seldom visit$ its cities & frequ5tly   
did n ev5 speak ! language ( its p4     
,among ! tomb/ones 9 ! ,ca!dral ( ,/4   
,bavon "o t des]ves m ?an a pass+ glance
 is t ( ,bi%op ,trie/4 ,design$ by !    
celebrat$ sculptor1 ,j]ome ,duquesnoy1 x
 is a notable example ( ,flemi%         
sculpture1 besides possess+ an add$     
int]e/ by reason ( ! fact t ! arti/     
s\ght to de/roy x :5 complete4 ,m       
important1 h[ev]1 ?an ! monum5t & its   
/ory is ! fact t ,bi%op ,trie/ 0 ! fa!r 
( ! art ( horticulture = :i* ,gh5t is s 

r5[n$ today4 ,x 0 9 8 g>d5s--:i* 7 fam\s
 ?r\gh\t ! sev5te5? c5tury--t r>e &     
exotic plants 7 = ! fir/ "t plant$ out (
 doors 9 ,fl&]s & tra9$ to gr[ 9 ! =m ( 
pyramids1 ar*es1 summ]-h\ses1 & a hundr$
 fanta/ic %apes4 ,! ,belv$]e ,g>d5s ( ! 
wor?y prelate became ! model = o!r      
g>d5]s1 & ! se$1 plant$ 9 f]tile soil1 f
 :i* sprang a great indu/ry4  ,n cont5t 
) cultivat+ 8 own g>d5s ! ,bi%op s\ght  
to enc\rage 9 e way ! humble g>d5]s ( ! 
city1 giv+ !m 8 augu/ protection1 8     
fri5dly c\nsel1 mak+ loans to ! ne$y1 & 
unit+ !m into a society "u ! patronage (
 ,/4 ,am& & ,/e4 ,doro?y4 ,?is noble    
example 0 spe$ily foll[$ by ! city1 :i* 
also enc\rag$ ! horticulturi/s4 ,9 #afdj
 ,william de ,blasre1 an ald]man ( !    
city1 con/ruct$ ! fir/ ho?\se ev] se5 9 
,europe4 ,x 0 a hundr$ feet long1 made (
 wood & glass1 heat$ ) huge /oves1 &    
suffici5tly high to accommodate ! exotic
 plants t1 9 summ]time1 7 set outdoors4 
,?is novelty made a great /ir & br\ght  
_m visitors to ,gh5t4 ,soon aft]w>d a   

society ( horticulturi/s 0 f\nd$1 & by !
 end ( ! c5tury a botanical g>d5 0      
e/abli%$4  ,9 ! op5+ ye>s ( ! n9ete5?   
c5tury ?is in/itution v ne>ly came to an
 end4 ,x 0 co/ly to keep up1 produc$    
little or no rev5ue1 & ,napoleon1 :o 0  
!n ,fir/ ,consul & includ$ ,gh5t 9 8    
rapidly wid5+ dom9ions1 decid$ t x %\ld 
be suppress$4 ,a fri5d ( ! g>d5         
skilfully took advantage ( a visit (    
,joseph9e to ,gh5t to enli/ h] aid 9    
p]suad+ h] husb& to sp>e x4 ,invit+ !   
future empress to visit ! e/abli%m5t1 he
 contriv$ t ! plants & fl[]s %\ld plead 
_! own cause4 ,betwe5 two palms at !    
entrance he _h a huge plac>d susp5d$    
be>+ ! words3 ,ave1 ,cs>1 morituri te   
salutamus4 ,!n1 along ! diff]5t walks1  
ea* fl[] & plant bore a c>d             
proportionate to its size & conta9+ a   
v]se allud+ to its approa*+ de/ruction4 
,naturally surpris$ at ?is outbur/ (    
poetry on ! "p ( ! nymphs ( ! g>d51 z ! 
fl[]s /yl$ !mselves 9 _! effusions1     
,joseph9e inquir$ ! reason = x4 ,?is    

gave h] conductor 8 opportunity1 & he   
plead$ = ! pres]vation ( ! g>d5 ) su*   
ard\r & eloqu5ce t he won h] assurance t
 if h] wi%es _h any weight 8 beautiful  
g>d5 %\ld be pres]v$ & its nymphs %\ld n
 p]i% 9 exile4 ,! ev5t prov$ t he _h    
secur$ a p[]ful ally1 = ! edict ( !     
,fir/ ,consul 0 resc9d$ & ! g>d5 0 sav$4
  ,to-day ,gh5t boa/s ( h] title ( !    
,city ( ,fl[]s4 ,! ,botanical ,g>d5 is  
protect$ by a ,royal ,society1 !re are  
_m private collections t are wor? go+ f>
 to see1 & m ?an five hundr$            
e/abli%m5ts1 l>ge & small1 are engag$ 9 
horticulture z an indu/ry1 ! annual     
exports am\nt+ to millions ( doll>s4    
,bi%op ,trie/ c !re=e be ?ank$ = giv+   
,fl&]s "o ( its great indu/ries4        
,speak+ ( ,napoleon1 x is n g5]ally     
rememb]$ t ,gh5t 01 = ! brief space ( "o
 hundr$ days1 ! capital ( ,france4 ,:5  
,napoleon return$ f ,elba1 & 0 receiv$ )
 op5 arms by ! v troops s5t to attack   
him1 ,l\is ,,xviii fl$ incont95tly to   
,gh5t :]e he set up a feeble c\rt at 8  

resid5ce on ! rue des ,*amps4 ,"h       
,guizot1 ,*ateaubri&1 & 8 o!r m9i/]s met
 =mally e morn+ to discuss ) ,8 ,maje/y 
! *ances ( 8 ev] gett+ back to ,p>is    
aga9--,p>is :]e1 by ! way1 ! mob 0 s++  
mock+ly3      ,r5dez n\s notre pre de   
,g&         ,r5dez n\s notre pre6  ,x   
w\ld take a satiri/ l ,dick5s or        
,?ack]ay to describe ! sc5e :5 ! fat    
mon>* sat d[n to 8 mid-day meal1 9 !    
pres5ce ( :oev] might wi% to wat* !     
curi\s spectacle4 ,he conqu]$ enorm\s   
quantities ( food1 b dep5d$ on ,well+ton
 & ,bl*] to conqu] ! army ( ,napoleon4  
,! =ms ( sov]eignty 7 none ! less       
c>efully obs]v$1 z ! little c\rt wait$  
day by day = ! great ev5t t all m5 c\ld 
see 0 draw+ /eadily ne>]4 ,at la/1 z !  
?und] ( ,napoleon's guns />tl$ ! allies 
f _! dance at ,brussels1 & ! tramp ( 8  
advanc+ squadrons %ook ! fields (       
,wat]loo1 ?is fat little fly on ! *>iot 
:eel ( ,european politics prep>$ once m 
= flight4 ,coa*es 7 made ready to c>ry !
 entire c\rt to ,o/5de1 :]e an ,engli%  

vessel await$ !m if ! battle w5t aga9/ !
 allies4 ,all day long ! horses /ood 9 !
 c\rty>d1 ! driv]s :ip 9 h&4 ,hi/ory    
does n record :at ga/ronomic feats ,8   
,maje/y p]=m$ t day1 b late at night !  
tid+s came t ! ,gr&e ,arme 0 9 retreat1 
& t ,k+ ,l\is c\ld return to 8 k+dom4   
,gh5t %>es ) ,bruges ! glory ( be+ !    
bir?place ( ,flemi% pa9t+4 ,! fam\s     
,adoration ( ! ,lamb1 by ! bro!rs ,van  
,eyck1 0 ord]$ by a weal?y burgh] (     
,gh5t = ! ca!dral ( ,/4 ,bavon--:]e !   
great] "p ( ! orig9al "w /ill re/s4 ,x 0
 at ,gh5t t ,hub]t1 ! eld] bro!r1 plann$
 ! ma/]piece & complet$ 8 %>e ( x4 ,b   
,gh5t also _h ma/]s belong+ to ! e>ly   
,flemi% s*ool ^: fame %e does n h to %>e
 ) any o!r city4 ,"o ( ^! 0 ,josse or   
,ju/us1 usually call$ ,ju/us ( ,gh5t1 :o
 visit$ ,italy 9 #adfh & !re pa9t$      
sev]al pictures4 ,ano!r 0 ,hugo ,van d] 
,goes :o gave promise ( becom+ z great a
 ma/] z ,jean ,van ,eyck :5 he sudd5ly  
gave up 8 *os5 pr(ession & ent]$ !      
,mona/]y ( ,r\ge-,cloitre1 ne> ,bruges4 

,he 0 admitt$ to ! ,guild ( ,pa9t]s at  
,gh5t 9 #adfg1 & left ! _w ( action 9   
#adgf--;ev5tually becom+ insane & dy+   
six ye>s lat]4 ,!re is a /ory to !      
effect t he once pa9t$ a picture (      
,abigail meet+ ,david = a burgh] ( ,gh5t
 :o liv$ 9 a h\se ne> ! bridge call$ !  
,muyd]brugge1 & :ile engag$ on ?is      
"w--:i* 0 pa9t$ on ! wall above a       
fireplace--fell 9 love ) 8 patron's     
daught]4 ,! pa9t+ prov$ a great success1
 b ! /]n p>5ts fr[n$ on ! suit ( ! "y   
arti/1 & ! daught]1 9 despair1 ent]$ !  
conv5t ( ! ,:ite ,ladies kn[n z ! ,porta
 ,coeli1 ne> ,brussels4 ,! h\se1 :i* 0  
said to h be5 entirely surr\nd$ by wat]1
 has long s9ce disappe>$1 toge!r ) !    
pa9t+1 b ! /ory may be ! explanation = !
 ab&onm5t by ! arti/ ( a promis+ c>e] :5
 he 0 /ill 9 ! prime ( life4 ,"o ( !    
f9e/ pictures 9 ! ,mod]n ,gall]y at     
,brussels is t by ,e4 ,waut]s repres5t+ 
! madness ( ,van d] ,goes4 ,! pa9t] is  
%[n seat$ & />+ eag]ly at "s phantasm   
be=e him--p]haps a vision ( ! fair      

,abigail--:ile a gr\p ( little *oir boys
 are /riv+1 "u ! lead]%ip ( a monk1 to  
exorcise ! evil demon t possesses _!    
fam\s bro!r by means ( sacr$ songs &    
*ants4 ,x is said t ?is me?od ( cure 0  
inde$ attempt$ :ile he 0 at             
,r\ge-,cloitre1 b )\t success4  ,! be/  
"w ( bo? ( ^! arti/s is1 un=tunately1 f>
 f ,fl&]s--be+ f\nd 9 ,italy1 :]e       
,flemi% pa9t]s 7 9 _! day v highly      
reg>d$4 ,! ,la/ ,supp]1 :i* 0 ! greate/ 
ma/]piece ( ,ju/us1 0 pa9t$ z an        
alt>piece = ! bro!rhood ( ,corpus ,*ri/i
 at ,urb9o & /ill hangs 9 ! *ur* (      
,sant' ,aga?a 9 t ,italian t[n4 ,!      
,adoration ( ! ,%eph]ds1 :i* 0 ! greate/
 "w ( ,van d] ,goes1 is 9 ! ,uffizi     
,gall]y at ,flor5ce4 ,at ,bruges !re are
 two pa9t+s attribut$ to ?is ma/]1 ,!   
,dea? ( ! ,virg91 9 ! museum1 & ! panel 
repres5t+ ! donors 9 ,! ,m>tyrdom ( ,/4 
,hippolytus 9 ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,sauveur4 ,! 
great] "p ( ! pa9t+s by ,van d] ,goes 9 
,belgium 7 de/roy$ by ! iconocla/s 9 !  
sixte5? c5tury1 includ+ sev]al ( :i* 8  

contempor>ies & o!r e>ly writ]s spoke 9 
! highe/ t]ms4 ,frequ5t m5tion is made (
 8 skill z a portrait pa9t]1 & ,pr(4 ,a4
 ,j4 ,waut]s1 aft] a c>eful /udy ( 8    
kn[n works ?r\gh\t ,europe1 ascribes to 
him ! fam\s portrait ( ,*>les ! ,bold 9 
! museum at ,brussels4 ,! e>ly writ]s   
/ate t private h\ses at ,bruges & ,gh5t1
 z well z *ur*es1 7 fill$ ) 8 works4    
,let u hope t "s ( ^!--hidd5 away dur+ !
 religi\s w>s or at ! "t ( !            
iconocla/s--may yet be discov]$ &       
id5tifi$4  ,gh5t1 dur+ ! fifte5? c5tury1
 0 ! arti/ic c5tre ( ,fl&]s1 & ! names1 
b n ! works1 ( _m ( its pa9t]s h come   
d[n to u4 ,"o ( ! mo/ celebrat$ ( ^! 9  
contempor>y annals 0 ,g]>d ,van d]      
,meire1 to :om tradition has assign$ !  
tripty* ( ,! ,crucifixion 9 ! ca!dral ( 
,/4 ,bavon4 ,?is arti/ rose to high rank
 9 ! ,guild ( ,/4 ,luke1 to :i* he 0    
admitt$ 9 #adeb1 & a consid]able numb] (
 pa9t+s 9 v>i\s ,european gall]ies are  
attribut$ to him4 ,an ,italian writ]    
ascribes to him "o hundr$ & tw5ty-five (

 ! exquisite m9iatures 9 ! fam\s        
,grimani ,brevi>y1 n[ 9 ! libr>y ( ,/4  
,m>k's at ,v5ice4 ,if ?is 7 true1 ,van  
d] ,meire 0 inde$ a great arti/1 b ?is  
book 0 illu/rat$ aft] 8 dea?4           
,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,adoration ,,( ,,!   
,,%eph]ds4--,,hugo ,,van ,,d] ,,goes4   
,accord+ to ! ,royal ,commission ( ,art 
& ,ar*eology ( ,belgium1 ,gh5t conta9s m
 notewor?y antiquities ?an any o!r t[n 9
 ! ,k+dom4 ,! ,commission1 x appe>s1    
divides ! antiquities into ?ree classes1
 accord+ to _! relative importance1 &   
cr$its ,gh5t ) ?irte5 ( ! fir/ class1 t5
 ( ! second & six ( ! ?ird--or tw5ty-n9e
 9 all4 ,! figures = ! o!r ,flemi%      
cities are3 ,antw]p1 sev5 fir/1 five    
second1 six ?ird1 total eighte52        
,bruges1 f\r fir/1 six second1 six ?ird1
 total sixte52 ,t\rnai1 ?ree fir/1 six  
second1 six ?ird1 total fifte52 ,mal9es1
 f\r fir/1 eight second1 two ?ird1 total
 f\rte54 ,_m places are cr$it$ ) two or 
?ree ea*4 ,we tri$ to get a copy ( !    
,report ( ! ,commission giv+ ! names ( !

 antiquities 9 ea* class1 & ! reasons = 
rank+ !m1 b 7 unable to d s dur+ our /ay
 9 ,belgium4 ,x w\ld h be5 a le>n$ *eck 
on ! li/ ( places we _h f\nd mo/        
int]e/+4 ,q likely we w\ld h f\nd t !   
,commission gave ! fir/ rank to "s      
antiquity we did n see at all1 & maybe  
nev] he>d (6 ,h[ev]1 we saw en\gh to    
occupy e m9ute ( our brief vacation1 & !
 majority ( ^? we miss$--wilfully at    
lea/--7 *ur*es1 ( :i* ,fl&]s has en\gh  
to fill ?ree books l ?is 7 "o to        
fai?fully report !m all4  ,9 ,gh5t !re  
are1 z at ,bruges1 _m int]e/+ private   
h\ses scatt]$ ?r\gh\t ! city4 ,!        
,pr(essor & ,i on our morn+ walks look$ 
up _m ( ^!1 b ! li/ w\ld be t$i\s to    
enum]ate4 ,"o ( ! mo/ fam\s is !        
,arrire-,faucille1 =m]ly ! home ( a ri* 
seigneur1 b s9ce #aija us$ z a ,royal   
,cons]vatory ( ,music4 ,its ca/le-l t[] 
is v picturesque1 b we saw no?+ ( int]e/
 9 ! int]ior4 ,ne> by are two v old     
h\ses ) typically ,flemi% gables1 call$ 
! ,zw>te ,moor & ! ,groot ,moor4 ,built 

9 #adha1 or !reab\ts1 ! ,confr]ie ( ,/4 
,george _h its headqu>t]s "h = _m ye>s4 
,illu/ration3 ,,old ,,guild ,,h\ses1    
,,quai ,,aux ,,h]bes1 ,,gh5t4  ,! guilds
 h already be5 m5tion$1 & ! faades ( all
 ( ! m fam\s ( ! guild h\ses h be5      
c>efully re/or$4 ,^! include ! ,maison  
des ,mesureurs de ,bl & ! ,maison des   
,francs ,bateli]s on ! ,quai aux ,h]bes1
 ! ,maison des ,maons & ! ,maison des   
,bateli]s non francs4 ,! anci5t ,gr&    
,b\*]ie1 rec5tly re/or$1 is ano!r       
int]e/+ monum5t4 ,x seems t ! ,but*]s'  
,guild at ,gh5t ow$ its prosp]ity to !  
fact t ,*>les ,v *anc$ "o day to fall 9 
love ) ! pretty daught] ( a ,gh5t but*]4
 ,?is "y lady obta9$ = h] son & 8       
desc5dants an imp]ial monopoly ( !      
slaught]+ & meat-sell+ bus9ess :i*      
surviv$ all ! v>i\s dyna/ic *anges till 
! ,fr5* ,revolution4 ,! but*]s 7 call$  
,pr9se ,k9d]51 or ,pr9ce's ,*ildr51 &   
seem to h made a v good ?+ out ( ! blot 
on _! family escut*eon4 ,ano!r old      
edifice is ! ,maison de l',etape1 or    

,/aple ,h\se1 a gran>y dat+ f ! ?irte5? 
c5tury1 :i* /&s beside ! guild h\ses on 
! ,quai aux ,h]bes4 ,9 %ort1 ! t\ri/ c  
easily f9d en\gh ( int]e/ 9 ?is r>e old 
,flemi% city to occupy _m days (        
leisurely sight-see+4 ,gh5t1 l ,bruges1 
has ?us f> be5 sp>$ ! de/ruction t has  
ov]tak5 s _m ( ! small] ,flemi% t[ns    
dur+ ! w> &1 z f> z is at pres5t kn[n1  
all ( its tw5ty-n9e monum5ts are /ill   
intact4     ,,*apt] ,,xvii  ,,aud5a]de  
,,& ,,m>g>et ,,( ,,p>ma   ,x 0 on a     
pleasant morn+ 9 ,june t ! ,pr(essor &  
,i set =? on a little exp$ition to !    
fam\s t[n ( ! tape/ry weav]s1 leav+ !   
ladies to re/ & %op at ,brussels4 ,!    
popl>-trees t l9e ! c\ntry roads &      
canals 9 all p>ts ( ,belgium 7 9 full   
bloom & _! light cotton-clad se$s 7     
drift+ l sn[ 9 e direction4 ,moreov]1   
contr>y to our exp]i5ce = "s "t pa/1 !  
sun seem$ likely to %9e all day & our   
old fri5d ,j4 ,pluvius 0 9 complete     
retreat4 ,our r\te lay = a consid]able  
di/ance ?r\gh a *>m+ hop c\ntry1 ! plots

 be+ mu* small] ?an "o sees 9 ,k5t or 9 
,c5tral ,new ,york ,/ate1 b v num]\s1 &1
 no d\bt1 aggregat+ a consid]able       
acreage4 ,f>!r along we pass$ ?r\gh a   
sup]b /ret* ( hilly c\ntry :]e _m ( !   
h\ses & b>ns _h ?at*$ ro(s & 7 s        
picturesque1 bo? 9 !mselves & 9 _!      
surr\nd+s1 t we w\ld fa9 h desc5d$ at "o
 ( ! little /ations & sp5t ! day explor+
 & photograph+ ?is *>m+ corn] ( ,fl&]s4 
,! mo/ beautiful spot ( all bore !      
pretty "n ( ,l\ise-,m>ie--! ?at*-ro($   
h\ses ne/l+ cosily toge!r ^u a hillside4
 ,?is little /ation1 by ! way1 is on !  
l9e f ,blaton to ,aud5a]de 79 ,flemi%   
,oud5a>de71 z we 7 approa*+ our         
de/9ation f ! s\? in/ead ( directly f   
,brussels4 ,pres5tly ! great t[] ( ,/e4 
,walburge loom$ up ahead on our "r1 & we
 c\ld ev5 cat* a glimpse ( ! fam\s      
,hotel de ,ville4 ,in/ead ( /opp+1      
h[ev]1 our tra9 w5t on pa/ ! *ur*1 pa/ !
 t[n1 pa/ ev]y?+1 until we began to fe> 
t our fai?ful omnibus _h sudd5ly gone   
crazy & fanci$ itself a rapide b\nd =   

goodness kn[s :]e4 ,at la/1 h[ev]1 !    
/ation came 9 sight1 b we ev5 sp$ pa/ t1
 com+ to re/ f9ally "s di/ance d[n !    
railroad y>d4 ,z we walk$ back t[>d !   
,sortie-,ausgang gateway we debat$ :e!r 
we w\ld drive back to ! t[n 9 a cab or  
take a tram4 ,em]g+ on ! /reet we       
promptly decid$ to walk1 s9ce nei!r cab 
nor tram-c> c\ld be se54  ,!re 0 no     
dang] ( los+ our way1 = !re1 /raight d[n
 ! long /reet be=e u1 we c\ld see ! huge
 mass ( ,/e4 ,walburge t[]+ f> above !  
little h\ses ar\nd x4 ,aft] a leisurely 
walk ( five or six m9utes we arriv$ at a
 l>ge bleak-look+ squ>e1 call$ ! ,place 
de ,tacamb>o1 at ! c5tre ( :i* /ood a   
monum5t t--_h we be5 9 a c>riage or on a
 tram-c>--we w\ld h pass$ )\t m ?an a   
pass+ glance4 ,z x 01 we paus$ to read !
 inscriptions & f\nd t1 = ,am]icans1 !y 
told a /ory ( no little int]e/4 ,x      
appe>s t ?is is a memorial erect$ 9     
hon\r ( ! volunte]s f ,aud5a]de :o di$ 9
 ,mexico 9 ! s]vice ( ! un=tunate       
,emp]or ,maximilian4 ,! s\? side ( !    

monum5t1 :i* repres5ts a recl9+ female  
figure by ! sculptor1 ,w4 ,geefs1 be>s !
 foll[+ inscription3          ,ordre de 
,j\r          ,(fici]s et ,soldats6 ,v\s
 avez pris votre "p des travaux         
et des luttes dans la gu]re du ,mexique1
 votre         valeur dans les combats1 
votre discipl9e         dans les        
fatigues des longues         m>*es ont  
honor le         nom ,belge4            
,au mom5t de v\s remb>qu] p\r all]      
revoir votre         patrie recevez les 
adieux de vos frres d'armes du          
corps exp$itionaire franais4            
,dans quelques sema9es v\s aurez revu   
les rivages de votre         patrie y   
cons]vez1 je l'espre1 bon s\v5ir de leux
         qui ont s\f]t et combattu  vos 
cotes1         a9si que du ,m>*al de    
,france         qui a eu l'honneur de   
v\s comm&]4          ,le ,m>*al de      
,france1 ,comm&ant en ,*ef4             
,,baza9e4  ,proce$+ along ! /reet1 :i*  
/ill l$ /raight t[>d ! great *ur*1 we   
discuss$ ! /range fate t _h l$ ^!       

valiant ,flem+s to give _! lives 9 a w> 
( conque/ s _m ?\s&s ( miles away--a    
futile sacrifice z ! ev5t prov$1 ) ?is  
little monum5t z _! sole rew>d4  ,almo/ 
be=e we 7 aw>e ( x we f\nd ourselves at 
! ,gr&e ,place ) ! ,hotel de ,ville "r 9
 front ( u4 ,we 7 on ! we/ side ( !     
little /ructure1 :i* on ! rue ,haute    
adjo9s ! anci5t ,halle aux ,draps4 ,an  
old doorway gives on ! rue ,haute1 b is 
no long] us$1 ! entrance be+ n[ ?r\gh ! 
,hotel de ,ville4  ,:ile ! two pr9cipal 
*ur*es ( ! t[n h suff]$ sev]ely f !     
fanatical ravages ( ! iconocla/s1 or    
image break]s1 ! ,hotel de ,ville c be  
se5 9 almo/ its pri/9e magnific5ce4     
,ar*itecturally ?is monum5t is g5]ally  
consid]$ z "o ( ! f9e/1 n only 9 ,fl&]s1
 b 9 ! :ole ( ,europe4 ,little x        
und5iably is1 al?\gh x t[]s up bravely  
above ! l[ two-/ory build+s surr\nd+ x1 
b its v smallness gives its m>vell\s    
faade ! ri*ness & delicacy ( ! f9e/     
lace4 ,begun 9 #aebe1 x 0 complet$      
twelve ye>s lat] at a co/ ( #fe1ged     

livres p>isis1 #af sols1 #b d5i]s4 ,^?  
:o are curi\s c asc]ta9 ! mod]n         
equival5t ( ! ,p>is p\nd ( #aecg1 b ev5 
:5 we add ! #af sols1 #b d5i]s1 x seems 
z ?\gh ! burgh]s got v good value = _!  
money4  ,illu/ration3 ,,hotel ,,de      
,,ville1 ,,aud5a]de4 ,photograph by ,e4 
,sacr4  ,late ,go?ic is ! p]iod to :i*  
?is gem 9 ! galaxy ( spl5did ,flemi% t[n
 halls belongs4 ,x is consid]$ !        
ma/]piece ( its ar*itect1 ,h5ri ,van    
,pde1 :o also design$ ! sup]b ,hotel de 
,ville at ,brussels & t at ,l\va94 ,! _m
 little ni*es on ! front once conta9$   
/atues ( ! noble lords & dames ( ,fl&]s1
 includ+ no d\bt sev]al ( ! great h\se (
 ,lala+1 ! ,c\nt ,philippe de ,lala+    
hav+ laid ! corn] /one4 ,un=tunately ^! 
7 all de/roy$ dur+ ! religi\s w>s & !   
,fr5* ,revolution & h nev] be5 replac$4 
,?is seems a great pity1 z ,fl&]s /ill  
possesses _m /one-c>v]s ( great skill1 &
 ! k9dly h& ( "t w\ld soon mell[ ! new  
"w to h>monise ) ! old4 ,z x is1 e ni*e 
conta9s ! iron projection t =m]ly held  

its /atue 9 place1 s t ! "w ( re/oration
 w\ld consi/ ( simply c>v+ ea* ( !      
little /atues 9 ! sculptor's own ateli]1
 :]ev] x might be1 & aft]w>ds plac+ !m 9
 position4  ,"o ( ! orig9al /atues /ill 
rema9s 9 place1 h[ev]1 & is entitl$ to !
 hon\r ( be+ /yl$ ! olde/ citiz5 (      
,aud5a]de4 ,?is is none o!r ?an ,hanske 
't ,krijg]ke1 ,petit ,jean le ,gu]ri]1  
or ,little ,john ! ,w>rior1 :o1 ) 8     
dim9utive /&>d be>+ ! arms ( ! city1 /&s
 on ! topmo/ p9nacle ( ! t[]4 ,8 gaze is
 ev] t[>d ! ,s\?1 ) a f>-away look 9 8  
eyes1 across ! ,gr&e ,place & t[>d !    
di/ant hills4 ,dur+ ! ?ree hundr$ &     
sev5ty-eight ye>s t he has be5 /&+ !re1 
brav+ ! w9t] ra9s & ! summ] sun%9e1 h[  
_m *anges h tak5 place 9 ! great outside
 _w :ile little ,aud5a]de has /ood /ill6
  ,ev5 )\t its /atues ! pr9cipal faade (
 ! ,hotel de ,ville m]its m ?an a pass+ 
glance4 ,9 ! admirable h>mony ( its     
proportions1 ! delicate beauty ( its    
details1 9 ! excell5ce ( ! /one         
c>v+s--almo/ p]fectly pres]v$--t =m     

wrea?s & fe/oons ( /one ab\t its ,go?ic 
w9d[s1 !re is no?+ f9] to be se5 9 all  
,fl&]s4 ,! high po9t$ ro(1 ) its t9y    
dorm] w9d[s1 is exactly z ! ar*itect    
int5d$ x1 & ! *>m+ little t[] seems z   
p]fect z ! day ! la/ ( ! sixte5?-c5tury 
masons left x4  ,! int]ior is wor?y ( ! 
ext]ior4 ,on ! fir/ floor a l>ge hall1  
call$ ! ,salle du ,peuple--,hall ( !    
,p--ext5ds f "o side ( ! build+ to !    
o!r4 ,?is conta9s a f9e /one fireplace  
surm\nt$ by a spl5didly c>v$ ,go?ic     
mantelpiece ) /atues ( ,/e4 ,walburge 9 
! c5tre & ,ju/ice & ,p[] on ei!r side4  
,bel[ are ! arms ( ,au/ria1 ,fl&]s1 & ( 
,aud5a]de4 ,?is ma/]piece 0 c>v$ by     
,paul ,van d] ,s*eld54 ,! walls on ea*  
side ( ! fireplace are decorat$ ) mod]n 
mural pa9t+s depict+ ,li$]ick de ,buck1 
! fir/ ,=e/] ( ,fl&]s1 ,di]ick (        
,alsace1 ,baldw9 ( ,con/ant9ople1 &     
,*>les ! ,fif?4 ,betwe5 ! w9d[s ov]look+
 ! ,gr&e ,place are ! ,arms ( ,ca/ile & 
,aragon1 :ile at ! ends ( ea* ( ! great 
beams t support ! ceil+ are c>v$ ! arms 

( ! v>i\s k+doms & pr9cipalities belong+
 to ,*>les ,v4  ,already we p]ceive t ! 
%ad[ ( ! great ,emp]or re/s heavily on  
?is little city ( ,aud5a]de1 & z we     
proce$ fur!r 9 our explorations ! m     
dom9at+ & omnipres5t does 8 p]sonality  
become4 ,ev5 ! v arms ( ! city be> a    
mute evid5ce to 8 g5]osity & s5se (     
hum\r4 ,x is relat$ t on a c]ta9        
occasion ! ,emp]or & 8 /ately tra9      
approa*$ ! city )\t be+ p]ceiv$ by !    
s5t9el /ation$ 9 ! t[] ( ?is v ,hotel de
 ,ville to ann\nce 8 arrival4 ,on rea*+ 
! gates1 !re=e1 ! ,imp]ial cortge f\nd  
no "o to welcome ! great mon>*4 ,!      
,burgoma/] & ! memb]s ( ! ,c\ncil1 :o   
%\ld h be5 !re 9 _! robes ( /ate1 7     
conspicu\s by _! abs5ce4 ,_h ?is happ5$ 
to 8 ance/or ,*>les ! ,bold1 ^: fi]y    
temp] brook$ no disc\rtesy1 ev5 :5      
un9t5d$1 x might well h gone h>d ) !    
un=tunate (ficials4 ,z x 01 ! ,emp]or   
ov]look$ ! slight1 b n long aft]w>ds he 
malici\sly ins]t$ a pair ( spectacles 9 
! arms ( ! city1 rem>k+ t 9 future !y   

w\ld ?us be able to see m cle>ly !      
approa* ( _! sov]eign4  ,illu/ration3   
,,wood5 ,,doorway1 ,,c>v$ ,,by ,,van    
,,d] ,,s*eld51 ,,hotel ,,de ,,ville1    
,,aud5a]de4  ,adjo9+ ! ,salle du ,peuple
 is a small] *amb]1 ! ,salle des *ev9s1 
or ! ,c\ncil ,*amb] ( ! anci5t commune4 
,"h !re is ano!r /one fireplace slightly
 inf]ior to ! "o 9 ! l>g] hall1 b       
resembl+ x 9 g5]al design4 ,! /atues "h 
repres5t ! ,virg9 ,m>y 9 ! c5tre1 )     
,ju/ice & ,hope on ei!r side4 ,! *ief   
ma/]piece 9 ?is room1 h[ev]1 is ! wood5 
doorway c>v$ by ,van d] ,s*eld51 :o 0   
in/ruct$ by ! burgh]s to make x z       
beautiful z possible4 ,h[ fai?fully !   
arti/ p]=m$ 8 task ! result %[s4 ,ar\nd 
its top /& wood5 cupids surm\nt+ a ri*ly
 c>v$ entablature conta9+ ! arms (      
,*>les ,v 9 ! c5tre ) ^? ( ,fl&]s & (   
,aud5a]de on ei!r side4 ,! fir/ is      
support$ by two griff9s1 ! second by two
 lions & ! la/ by two savages4 ,! panels
 ( ! door itself & ( ! sidewalls =m+ !  
complete portal are ri*ly c>v$1 ea*     

design be+ diff]5t f all ! o!rs4 ,= ?is 
bit ( wood-c>v+ ! frugal burgh]s paid ! 
sum ( "o ?\s&1 eighte5 livres p>isis1 or
 n9e hundr$ & tw5ty-?ree francs--some?+ 
ov] #age--;& ! arti/ furni%$ ! wood6    
,=m]ly ! walls ( ?is room 7 decorat$ )  
tape/ries ( ,aud5a]de1 b at ! "t ( ,l\is
 ,,xiv ^! 7 all remov$ & tak5 to ,p>is4 
,mo/ ( ! tape/ries 9 ! t[n ov]look$ by  
le ,gr&e ,mon>que 7 subsequ5tly tak5    
away by ,napoleon1 s t ! ,hotel de      
,ville ( ! city t gave ^! treasures to !
 _w1 & t %\ld possess ! f9e/ collection 
( !m1 has be5 /ripp$ completely b>e4 ,9 
_! /ead ! ,c\ncil ,*amb] at pres5t      
conta9s a collection ( pa9t+s ( no      
special arti/ic m]it b ( great hi/orical
 int]e/4 ,!re is1 ( c\rse1 a portrait ( 
,*>les ,v1 we>+ ! insignia ( ! ,ord] ( !
 ,gold5 ,fleece4 ,a portrait ( ,l\is    
,,xiv on horseback & be>+ a m>%al's     
baton1 by ,philippe de ,*ampaigne1 =ms a
 poor sub/itute = ! tape/ries fil*$ by  
,8 ,maje/y4 ,?is collection also        
comprises sev]al portraits ( p]sonages  

fam\s 9 lat] ,flemi% hi/ory4 ,( ^! ! mo/
 notewor?y is t ( ,m>g>et ( ,p>ma1 :i*  
hangs close to t ( h] fa!r1 ! ,emp]or4  
,j across ! ,gr&e ,place f ! ,hotel de  
,ville /&s ! ,t[] ( ,baldw91 und\bt$ly !
 olde/ /ructure 9 ! city1 & erect$ by   
,baldw9 ,v1 a ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s :o di$ 9   
#ajfg1 mak+ x date f ! ,norman ,conque/4
 ,! conci]ge ( ! ,hotel de ,ville in=m$ 
u t ?is little t[]1 :i* adjo9s ano!r    
anci5t edifice n[ us$ z a brew]y1 0 !   
bir?place ( ,m>g>et1 b ?is does n appe> 
to be altoge!r c]ta94 ,"s au?orities    
/ate t ! hon\r belongs to a little      
two-/ory h\se ) a high1 /eep-slop+ ro( t
 also faces ! ,place4 ,if ! walls ( ^!  
old h\ses _h ! e>s t prov]bially belong 
to all walls1 & 7 /ill fur!r provid$ )  
lips to :isp] ! secrets !y ov]he>d1 !y  
c\ld no d\bt settle ?is "q2 & at ! same 
"t ?r[ "s additional light ^u a fam\s   
bit ( m$ival romance & sc&al4  ,( all ! 
natives ( ! anci5t t[n ( ,aud5a]de ! mo/
 fam\s 0 ,m>g>et1 aft]w>ds ! ,du*ess (  
,p>ma1 & = _m ye>s ,reg5t ( ! ,l[       

,c\ntries1 ov] :i* %e rul$ ) an almo/   
imp]ial sway4 ,h] fa!r 0 ! great        
,emp]or1 ,*>les ,v1 :o dalli$ "h =      
sev]al weeks z gue/ ( ! ,c\ntess de     
,lala+1 wife ( ! ,gov]nor ( ,aud5a]de1  
:ile 8 soldi]s 7 besieg+ ,t\rnai 9 ! ye>
 #aeba4 ,! attraction t kept him s f> f 
8 army 0 a pretty ,flemi% maid5 nam$    
,jehanne or ,jeanne ,van d] ,gheyn/4    
,accord+ to ! none too tru/wor?y ,/rada1
 ?is "y lady 0 a memb] ( ! ,flemi%      
nobility1 b accord+ to ! city ar*ives x 
appe>s t %e belong$ to a family ( humble
 tape/ry work]s resid+ at ,nuk]ke1 a    
suburb ( ,aud5a]de4 ,at all ev5ts1 h]   
pretty face attract$ ! att5tion ( !     
y\?ful ,emp]or--:e!r at a ball1 z ,/rada
 says1 or :ile %e 0 s]v+ z maid ( !     
,c\ntess de ,lala+1 z _m writ]s assume1 
or p]haps at a village ,k]messe :i*     
,*>les might well h att5d$ incognito4   
,aft] ! little ,m>g>et 0 born ! "m      
receiv$ an annual income ( tw5ty-f\r    
livres p>isis f ! ,emp]or4 ,9 #aebe %e  
m>ri$ ! ,matre de ,*ambre extraord9aire 

( ! ,c\nts ( ,brabant1 & di$ 9 #aeda4   
,*>les took 8 little daught] & _h h]    
br\ght up z a pr9cess4 ,9 #aecg1 :5 %e 0
 only fifte5 ye>s old1 %e 0 m>ri$ by !  
,emp]or to ,alex&]1 ! ,duke ( ,urb91 a  
cruel & dissolute ,italian pr9ce :o1    
h[ev]1 di$ ! same ye>4 ,! foll[+ ye> %e 
0 m>ri$ to ,octavio ,f>nese1 a gr&son ( 
,pope ,pius ,,iii1 :o 0 !n only f\rte54 
,%e 0 h]self /rongly oppos$ to ?is      
m>riage1 b ! ,emp]or 0 obdurate & %e    
f9ally yield$4 ,h] son1 ,alex&] ,f>nese1
 0 ! fam\s ,duke ( ,p>ma :o became !    
=emo/ milit>y lead] on ! ,spani% side   
dur+ ! sangu9>y w> betwe5 ,philip ,,ii &
 ! ,ne!rl&s4 ,on ! dea? ( h] fa!r1      
,m>g>et 0 made ,reg5t ( ! ,l[ ,c\ntries 
by h] half-bro!r ,philip ,,ii4 ,%e      
arriv$ at ,gh5t1 ,july #be?1 #aeei1 & on
 ,augu/ #g? ! ,k+ pres5t$ h] to ! ,/ates
 ,g5]al1 say+ t he _h *os5 h] z 8       
repres5tative because %e 0 s close to   
him by bir? & because ( ! s+ul>         
affection %e has always borne t[>d ! ,l[
 ,c\ntries :]e %e 0 born & rais$ & ( :i*

 %e knew all ! languages4 ,%e retir$ f !
 ,reg5cy 9 #aefg1 b 0 call$ back once m 
9 #aehj at ! p]sonal reque/ ( ! ,k+4 ,z 
h] son ,alex&] 0 !n at ! z5i? ( 8 p[]1 &
 oppos$ to h] resum+ ! reg5cy1 %e f9ally
 decl9$ ! hon\r :i* 0 reluctantly giv5  
to him4 ,%e di$ 9 #aehf at ! age (      
sixty-six4  ,x 0 h] =tune1 or r         
mis=tune1 to rule ov] ! ,ne!rl&s at a   
p]iod :5 ! see?+ =ces ( religi\s unre/ &
 prote/ 7 becom+ too viol5t to be       
re/ra9$4 ,_h ,philip ,,ii1 h]           
half-bro!r1 be5 less bigot$1 less cruel1
 & less bl9d to ! be/ int]e/s ( ! c\ntry
 & ( 8 own dyna/y1 x is possible t !    
great popul>ity ( ! ,du*ess--:o 0       
s9c]ely lov$ by ! majority ( h] subjects
 & respect$ by all--might h enabl$ !    
,gov]nm5t to re/ra9 ! ris+ passions ( ! 
p4 ,if1 in/ead ( a policy ( savage      
repression1 ! ,k+ ( ,spa9 _h au?oris$   
,m>g>et to pursue a policy ( mod]ation &
 conciliation1 ! fe>ful hi/ory ( ! next 
eighty ye>s--! blacke/ page 9 human     
hi/ory--might nev] h be5 writt54        

,un=tunately1 mod]ation & conciliation 7
 z =eign to ! nature ( t sombre mon>* z 
to ,torquemada himself1 & fanaticism    
f\ght fanaticism ) a fury t 0 z devoid (
 intellig5ce z x 0 ( m]cy4  ,! fir/ act 
9 ! drama ( blood 0 ! sudd5 outbreak ( !
 fr5zy ( ! iconocla/s1 or image-break]s1
 :i* swept ov] ! great] "p ( ! ,spani%  
,ne!rl&s 9 ! mon? ( ,augu/1 #aeff4      
,sc>cely a *ur*1 a *apel1 a conv5t or a 
mona/]y1 escap$ ! deva/ation t result$ f
 ^! fanatical attacks4 ,pa9t+s1 /atu>y1 
alt>s & *apels1 ev5 ! tablets & monum5ts
 ( ! dead--! accumulat$ art treasures ( 
c5turies--7 torn to pieces or c>ri$     
bodily away4 ,9 "s places ! "w (        
de/ruction 0 complet$ 9 a few h\rs1 9   
o!rs organis$ b&s ( pillag]s work$      
sy/ematically = days be=e ! local       
au?orities--tak5 completely by          
surprise--recov]$ _! wits & put a /op to
 ! "w ( desecration4 ,! loss to art &   
civilisation effect$ by ! iconocla/s 9  
,fl&]s is beyond computation4 ,! ,reg5t 
act$ ) en]gy & decision1 h] spirit$     

appeals to ! magi/rates f9ally br++ !m  
to _! s5ses & result+ 9 a spe$y         
re/oration ( ord]4 ,philip1 :o _h j     
cause = res5tm5t1 m$itat$ v5geance1     
h[ev]1 & 9 #aefh replac$ ! too g5tle    
,m>g>et by ! ,duke ( ,alva4  ,= !       
,pr(essor ! ,hotel de ,ville conta9$    
/ill ano!r room ( inexhau/ible int]e/4  
,?is 0 ! museum ( ! commune :i* occupies
 ! entire second floor4 ,= "s           
reason--c]ta9ly n f fe> ( ! suffragette1
 :i* is a non-exi/5t species 9          
,belgium--?is is clos$ to ! public1 b we
 7 admitt$ by c\rtesy ( ! ,secret>y ( ! 
,commune4 ,! collection is ( ! utmo/    
value to ! hi/orian & ar*eologi/1 b is r
 badly kept4 ,among ! mo/ int]e/+       
objects 7 f\r *airs once us$ by ,*>les  
,v2 ! anci5t keybo>d ( ! c>illon :i*    
=m]ly hung 9 ! belfry ( ! t[n hall b is 
n[ in/all$ 9 ! t[] ( ,/e4 ,walburge1 &  
"s wat]-col\r designs = tape/ries4 ,a   
l>ge pa9t+ ( ! ,la/ ,judgm5t cov]$ a    
consid]able "p ( "o wall4 ,?is is       
attribut$ to ,heuvick1 & orig9ally hung 

9 ! ,salle des *ev9s4 ,x 0 ! anci5t     
cu/om to h a pa9t+ ( ?is subject1 cov]$ 
by curta9s1 9 ! old5 ju/ice halls4 ,:5 a
 witness 0 ab\t to be sworn ! curta9s 7 
sudd5ly drawn back & ! sight ( !        
picture1 :i* repres5t$ ) great vividness
 ! de/ruction ( ! damn$1 0 int5d$ to    
prev5t false te/imony4 ,! collection    
also includ$ a v>iety ( anci5t arms &   
co9s1 sev]al curi\s m$ival /rong boxes1 
& two huge snakes :i* hung f ! raft]s   
ov]head4 ,!re are no snakes 9 ,belgium  
to-day1 b our guide assur$ u t a        
crocodile _h once be5 tak5 9 ! ,riv]    
,s*eldt ne> ,aud5a]de1 s ! snakes may h 
be5 natives aft] all--assum+1 ( c\rse1 t
 ! crocodile /ory is correct4  ,back ( !
 ,hotel de ,ville prop] is ! /ill m     
anci5t ,clo? ,hall1 dat+ f ! beg9n+ ( ! 
?irte5? c5tury4 ,its small1 high w9d[s 7
 built slant+ly1 to prev5t ar*]s f s5d+ 
arr[s directly into ! int]ior4 ,at "s   
comp>atively rec5t p]iod two l>ge w9d[s 
7 cut ?r\gh1 ! walls on ea* side1 b a   
goodly numb] ( ! e>li] w9d[s /ill rema91

 & ! beams t support ! high1 po9t$ ro(  
are /ill z s\nd z ! day !y 7 laid 9     
position4  ,illu/ration3 ,,*ur* ,,(     
,,/e4 ,,walburge1 ,,aud5a]de4  ,to ! we/
 ( ! ,gr&e ,place1 & sc>cely a /one's   
?r[ f ,baldw9's ,t[]1 rises ! va/ grey  
mass ( ,/e4 ,walburge1 ) t5 or twelve   
t9y fifte5? or sixte5? c5tury h\ses     
ne/l+ snugly up aga9/ x4 ,?is spl5did   
*ur* dates f ! v f\ndation ( ! city1 an 
e>ly *apel erect$ on ?is site hav+ be5  
sack$ & burn$ by ! ,norsem5 9 #hhj4     
,twice aft] ?is ! *ur* 0 de/roy$ 9 ! w>s
 betwe5 ,fl&]s & ,france1 b 9 #aaej 0   
begun an edifice ( :i* "s portions /ill 
rema94 ,:5 ,john ! ,fe>less1 ,duke (    
,burgundy1 *ose ,aud5a]de z 8 ,flemi%   
place ( resid5ce ! burgh]s det]m9$ to   
enl>ge & beautify _! *ur* & erect$ !    
semi-circul> portion ( ! *oir 9 #adjf to
 #adjh4 ,soon aft]w>ds ! great nave 0   
begun1 b 0 n complet$ = fully a c5tury1 
9 #aeae4 ,! t[]1 "o ( ! f9e/ 9 ! _w1    
advanc$ /ill m sl[ly & 0 n entirely     
f9i%$ until #afbd4 ,its orig9al height 0

 ?ree hundr$ & sev5ty-?ree feet1 b 9    
#ahjd ! wood5 spire 0 /ruck by lightn+ &
 burn$4 ,x has nev] be5 rebuilt1 & !    
pres5t height ( ! t[] is two hundr$ &   
n9ety-five feet4 ,z x is1 x dom9ates !  
little city & comm&s a wide view across 
! broad valley ( ! ,s*eldt 9 e          
direction4 ,x 0 a /iff climb1 up a      
p]petually w9d+ /one /airway1 to ! top1 
b ! view well repaid u = ! ex]tion4  ,! 
int]ior ( ! edifice sugge/s a great     
metropolitan ca!dral r ?an ! *ief *ur* (
 a small prov9cial t[n4 ,! *oir1 :i*    
suff]$ sev]ely f ! ravages ( !          
iconocla/s1 has rec5tly be5 re/or$ )    
great skill1 & is n[ "o ( ! mo/         
beautiful 9 ,europe4 ,?is *ur* conta9s  
sev]al pa9t+s by ,simon de ,pape1 a     
native ( ,aud5a]de1 ^: fa!r 0 ! ar*itect
 ( ! spire burn$ 9 #ahjd1 also an       
,assumption ( ! ,virg9 ,m>y by ,gasp>d  
de ,cray]1 a foll[] ( ,rub5s1 :o pa9t$ m
 ?an two hundr$ religi\s pictures4 ,?is1
 l all ! o!rs1 is ( m$iocre m]it4 ,to ! 
/ud5t ( hi/ory & ( anci5t art "o ( ! mo/

 int]e/+ treasures ( ! *ur* is its      
collection ( tape/ries ( ,aud5a]de4     
,?ree ( ! m important ones repres5t     
l&scapes--9 fact ! majority ( ,aud5a]de 
tape/ries t ,i h se5 may be ?us         
describ$--) ca/les1 *ur*es1 & f>mh\ses 9
 ! c5tre & roses1 tulips & o!r fl[]s 9 !
 =egr\nd4 ,l mo/ ,aud5a]de tape/ries    
also !y are cr[d$ ) w+$ creatures--birds
 fly+ or s++ 9 ! trees & h5s1 turkeys & 
pheasants /roll+ 9 ! grass4 ,a tape/ry (
 a diff]5t g5re is "o belong+ to !      
,confr]ie de la ,/e4 ,croix1 :i* %[s an 
,ori5tal l&scape ) ,j]usalem 9 !        
di/ance1 & at ! f\r corn]s ! figures (  
,h]od1 ,pilate1 ,anna & ,caiphas4       
,tape/ry weav+ 0 introduc$ into ,fl&]s  
dur+ ! "t ( ! ,crusades1 ! reports ( !  
return+ crusad]s reg>d+ ! spl5did c>pets
 & rugs ( ! ,ori5t ar\s+ a desire on !  
"p ( ! ,flemi% weav]s to imitate !m4    
,ca/le walls1 h[ev] ?ick & /rongly      
built1 7 apt to be damp & cold & a great
 dem& spe$ily sprang up = ! new         
productions = wall cov]+s4 ,/>t+ at     

,arras & ,t\rnai1 ! manufacture (       
tape/ries spread to all ! cities 9 !    
valley ( ! ,s*eldt & receiv$ a          
p>ticul>ly important developm5t at      
,aud5a]de1 :i* soon became ! lead+      
tape/ry c5tre ( ,fl&]s4 ,! weav]s adopt$
 ,sa9t ,b>b>a z _! patron1 & 9 #adda 7  
organis$ into a corporation4 ,9 _!      
orig9al *>t] x 0 /ipulat$ t ea*         
appr5tice mu/ "w ?ree ye>s = 8 fir/     
employ]4 ,despite ! sev]ity ( ?is       
regulation ! manufacture ( tape/ries    
exp&$ ) su* rapidity t 9 #aeci no less  
?an tw5ty ?\s& p]sons--includ+ m51 wom5 
& *ildr5--7 employ$ z tape/ry weav]s at 
,aud5a]de & its environs4  ,among !     
fam\s ,flemi% arti/s :o pa9t$ designs = 
! tape/ry weav]s ( ,aud5a]de may be     
m5tion$ ,floris1 ,coxcie1 ,rub5s1 ,david
 ,t5i]s1 ,gasp> de ,witte1 ,victor      
,janss5s1 ,pet] ,spi]9ckx1 ,adolphus de 
,gryeff1 & ,alex&] ,van ,br$ael1 :ile   
!re 7 a ho/ ( o!rs4 ,gradually1 h[ev]1 !
 artisans began to be discont5t$ ) _!   
rate ( pay1 :i* ! ma/] tape/ry mak]s    

kept at a l[ figure1 & ! adv5t ( !      
religi\s w>s f\nd !m eag] to jo9 any    
movem5t ( revolt4 ,aft] ! outbur/ ( !   
iconocla/s & ! arrival ( ! ,duke ( ,alva
 _m fl$ to ! ,dut* prov9ces & to ,engl&1
 nev] to return4 ,?is emigration cont9u$
 well into ! sev5te5? c5tury1 z v>i\s   
decrees pass$ by ! magi/rates betwe5    
#afjd & #afba1 confiscat+ ! possessions 
( su* emigrants1 te/ify4  ,illu/ration3 
,a ,,flemi% ,,tape/ry ,,( ,,! ,,fifte5? 
,,c5tury4  ,ano!r cause t contribut$ to 
! ru9 ( ! tape/ry indu/ry at ,aud5a]de 0
 ! active ef=t made by ! ,k+s ( ,france1
 ,l\is ,,xiii & ,l\is ,,xiv1 to induce !
 be/ weav]s & ma/]-workm5 to emigrate to
 ,p>is4 ,philippe ,robb9s1 "o ( ! mo/   
celebrat$ ma/]-weav]s ( ,aud5a]de1 0    
invit$ to come to ,france 9 #afbb & 0   
aft]w>ds proclaim$ at ,beavais to be !  
,*ef de t\s les tapits]s du ,roy4 ,_m ( 
! weav]s :o w5t to ,p>is & ,brussels on 
_! own acc\nt e/abli%$ ateli]s :]e !y   
manufactur$ :at !y proclaim$ to be      
v]itables tapis d',aud5a]de1 & ?is      

competition /ill fur!r injur$ ! indu/ry 
:i* soon aft]w>d disappe>$ entirely f ! 
city t gave its "n to ?is type ( tape/ry
 & has nev] s9ce be5 re-e/abli%$ !re4 ,)
 ! dep>ture ( its weav]s ! little city  
on ! ,s*eldt rapidly decl9$ 9           
importance1 & = ! pa/ two c5turies has  
be5 ! sleepy little m>ket-t[n t x is    
to-day4  ,on ! o!r side ( ! ,riv]       
,s*eldt1 :i* fl[s ?r\gh ! t[n & is      
cross$ by sev]al bridges1 is ! int]e/+  
,*ur* ( ,notre ,dame de ,pamela1 :i*    
dates f ! ?irte5? c5tury1 hav+ be5      
con/ruct$ 9 ! rem>kably %ort space ( f\r
 ye>s & complet$ 9 #abci4 ,x ?us belongs
 to ! transitional p]iod betwe5 !       
,romanesque /yle & ! pure ,go?ic & is ( 
int]e/ to ! /ud5t ( ar*itecture z "o ( !
 mo/ p]fect examples ( ?is p]iod 9      
,fl&]s4 ,! g5]al effect ( ! int]ior1    
especially :5 view$ f ! foot ( ! organ  
l(t1 is noble & impos+ 9 ! highe/       
degree4 ,our visit 0 dur+ a sunny       
aft]noon1 & ! effect ( ! long beams (   
light fall+ f ! l(ty w9d[s ( ! nave     

across ! /ately pill>s bel[ 0           
indescribably beautiful4 ,truly ?is     
ma/]piece ( /one expresses 9 its e l9e !
 tru? ( ,montalemb]t's beautiful rem>k t
 9 su* a *ur* e column1 e so>+ ar*1 is a
 pray] to ! ,mo/ ,high4  ,"o ( ! mo/    
curi\s ( ! pa9t+s 9 ,notre ,dame de     
,pamela is a tripty* by ,jean ,snell9ck1
 a pa9t] ( ,antw]p & a =]unn] ( ,rub5s  
:o 0 greatly 9 vogue among ! tape/ry    
weav]s ( ,aud5a]de4 ,?is "w repres5ts ! 
,creation ( ,eve 9 ! c5tral panel1 !    
,temptation at ! left & ! ,expulsion f  
,ed5 at ! "r4 ,! figures are all f9ely  
pa9t$1 especially ^? 9 ! left w+1 & !   
entire "w is an admirable example ( e>ly
 ,flemi% art4 ,! *ur* also possesses an 
int]e/+ "w by ,simon de ,pape repres5t+ 
! inv5tion ( ! cross4 ,b5ea? ! organ l(t
 7 ?ree tape/ries ( ,aud5a]de workman%ip
 :i* ! c>etak] oblig+ly spread out on ! 
*ur* floor = our inspection4 ,all 7 9 a 
poor /ate ( pres]vation4 ,"o repres5t$ a
 woodl& sc5e ) ?ree peasants on _! way  
to m>ket 9 ! =egr\nd4 ,! second _h a    

curi\s gr\p ( f[ls 9 ! =egr\nd1 :ile !  
?ird %[$ a sylvan sc5e ) a "m & ?ree    
daught]s1 ea* ( ! girls be>+ a basket ( 
fl[]s4  ,bo? ,/e4 ,walburge & ,notre    
,dame de ,pamela suff]$ sev]ely f ! fury
 ( ! iconocla/s1 al?\gh ! /orm broke 9  
,aud5a]de at a lat] p]iod ?an 9 ! l>g]  
cities f>!r to ! ea/w>d4 ,! cur ( ,/e4  
,walburge & f\r prie/s ( ,notre ,dame de
 ,pamela 7 ?r[n by ! riot]s into !      
,s*eldt & dr[n$ ,octob] #d?1 #aegb1 :ile
 bo? *ur*es 7 sack$4  ,on our way back f
 visit+ ! small] *ur* we paus$ on ! quay
 nam$ ,small5dam to admire ! sup]b view 
( ,/e4 ,walburge across ! riv]4 ,a bit  
fur!r on we ent]$ a qua9t little e/am9et
 be>+ ! invit+ "n ( ,9 d] ,groote ,p9te 
:i* we freely translat$ z ! big p9t4    
,app>5tly our ,flemi% 0 inexact1 = !    
bev]age ) :i* we 7 s]v$ 0 n notable =   
quantity4 ,x prov$1 moreov]1 to be      
exce$+ly s\r & unpleasant1 & we left our
 glasses unf9i%$4 ,9 ! c\rse ( a t\r    
ar\nd ! t[n we inspect$ :at rema9s ( !  
anci5t ,*teau de ,b\rgogne1 ! e>ly      

resid5ce ( ! ,dukes ( ,burgundy4 ,!     
pr9cipal build+ is n[ us$ by a ,ju/ice (
 ! ,peace1 & we f\nd little ( int]e/    
save "s old walls & a massive inn]      
c\rty>d4 ,at ! hospital ( ,notre ,dame1 
opposite ! great t[] ( ,/e4 ,walburge1  
we f\nd two m ,aud5a]de tape/ries 9 an  
admirable /ate ( pres]vation1 :ile a    
doz5 f9e m$ival doorways 9 diff]5t p>ts 
( ! t[n attract$ our att5tion4 ,= s     
small a place !re are a great _m        
religi\s in/itutions1 _m ( !m ( great   
antiquity4 ,among ^! may be m5tion$ !   
,conv5ts ( ! ,black ,si/]s 7,c\v5ts des 
,soeurs-,noires71 ! ,abbey (            
,maegd5dale1 ! ,conv5t ( ,notre ,dame de
 ,sion1 & ! ,bgu9age--! la/ an          
especially *>m+ little spot ) a         
delightful /reet entrance dat+ f !      
middle ( ! sev5te5? c5tury4  ,x is h>d  
to believe1 z "o w&]s ab\t ! half-des]t$
 /reets ( ?is sleepy old ,flemi% t[n1 t 
9 its day ( greatness x 0 a city ( no   
mean p[]1 hold+ its own /urdily aga9/ ! 
greate/ pr9ces 9 ! _w4 ,( its anci5t    

walls & t[]s n a s+le trace rema9s1 yet 
^? vani%$ ramp>ts f\r times 9 less ?an  
two c5turies defi$ ! armies ( !         
neighb\r+--b1 alas1 n always            
neighb\rly--city ( ,gh5t1 ev5 !         
r$\btable ,philip ,van ,artevelde retir+
 f 9 front ( !m discomfit$ 9 #achb4     
,?ree c5turies lat]1 9 #afhd1 ,l\is     
,,xiv 0 beat5 (f f an assault on ^! same
 walls1 b 9 rev5ge he ord]$ ! bomb>dm5t 
( ! city4 ,?is result$ 9 a conflagration
 f :i* x _h n fully recov]$ half a      
c5tury lat]4 ,9 #agjh ! ,duke (         
,m>lbor\gh & ,pr9ce ,eug5e ( ,savoy won 
a great victory ov] ! ,fr5* "u ! walls (
 ,aud5a]de4 ,to ?is day along ! fronti] 
betwe5 ,france & ,fl&]s ! peasant wom5  
lull _! babies to sleep ) a croon+      
ballad :i* beg9s3      ,malbrook s'en   
va't en gu]re1     ,mirlonton1          
mirlonton1 mirlonta9e2     ,malbrook    
s'en va't en gu]re1     ,dieu sait qu&  
il revi5dra4     ,il revi5dra  ,pques1  
,mirlonton1 mirlonton1 mirlonta9e1      
,il revi5dra  ,pques1     ,ou  la       

,tr9it4 7bis7  ,small wond] t ev5 !     
nurs]y songs tell ( w> & *ant ! "n ( !  
great ,duke two hundr$ ye>s aft] !      
,battle ( ,aud5a]de1 = dur+ ?ree        
c5turies ! ,flemi% pla9s 7 ! battlefield
 ( ,europe4 ,happily ! pres5t w> has n z
 yet smitt5 ,aud5a]de ) any s]i\s       
damage1 al?\gh ,le ,petit ,gu]ri]1 f 8  
p]* on ! belfry ( ! ,hotel de ,ville1   
has no d\bt look$ d[n ^u long l9es (    
m>*+ m5 & gleam+ bayonets4     ,,*apt]  
,,xviii  ,,old ,,antw]p--,,its ,,hi/ory 
,,& ,,leg5ds   ,:ile ,bruges & ,gh5t 7 9
 _! prime z c5tres ( ,flemi% comm]ce &  
indu/ry a rival t 0 de/9$ ultimately to 
supplant & eclipse !m bo? 0 sl[ly gr[+  
up along ! banks ( ! ,riv] ,s*eldt at a 
po9t :]e t important /ream1 :i* fl[s    
entirely across ,fl&]s1 becomes a tidal 
e/u>y4 ,f ! mo/ anci5t times ! prosp]ity
 ( ,antw]p--:i* 9 ,fr5* is call$ ,anv]s1
 9 ,flemi% ,antw]p5--has be5 closely    
connect$ ) ! riv]4 ,accord+ to ! leg5ds 
a giant nam$ ,antigonus once _h a ca/le 
:]e ! city n[ /&s & exact$ a toll ( all 

:o pass$ up or d[n ! riv]4 ,evasion (   
?is primitive high t>iff 0 puni%$ by    
cutt+ (f bo? ! culprit's h&s4 ,( c\rse  
?is giant j _h to be kill$ by ! h]o1 ^: 
"n 0 ,brabo1 & :o 0 said to h be5 a     
lieut5ant ( ,cs>4 ,brabo cut (f ! dead  
giant's "r h& & flung x into ! riv] 9   
tok5 t !nce=? x %\ld be free f simil>   
extortions4 ,! visitor w f9d ?is leg5d  
recall$ 9 ! city's arms--:i* has two h&s
 surm\nt+ a ca/le--& 9 _m works ( art4  
,brabo is said to h become ! fir/       
,m>grave ( ,antw]p1 & to h f\nd$ a l9e (
 sev5te5 ,m>graves1 all be>+ ! same "n1 
b ! de$s & ev5 ! exi/5ce ( ^! pr9ces is 
z my?ical z ^? ( _! ance/or--or ! fam\s 
leg5d ( ,loh5gr91 :i* belongs to ?is    
p]iod ( ,antw]p's hi/ory4  ,l ,london1  
,antw]p is situat$ sixty miles f ! sea4 
,9 old5 days comm]ce 0 r incl9$ to seek 
! m inl& ports1 z be+ saf] f /orms &    
less expos$ to sudd5 attacks4 ,! size ( 
ocean-go+ %ips 01 moreov]1 sl[ly b      
/eadily increas+ f g5]ation to g5]ation1
 & ?is increase fav\r$ ,antw]p1 :i* _h a

 deep1 sure *annel to ! sea1 z aga9/ its
 e>ly rival ,bruges1 ^: outlet1 ! little
 ,riv] ,zwyn1 0 gradually silt+ up4 ,!  
fact t ! t[n 0 situat$ j outside ( !    
dom9ions ( ! ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s probably   
help$ its e>ly gr[?1 = ! jeal\s m5 (    
,bruges might o!rwise h obta9$ f !      
,c\nts decrees re/rict+1 & p]haps       
prohibit+1 its expansion4 ,z x 01 !     
great ,c\nts rul$ all ( ! left bank ( ! 
,s*eldt f ,antw]p to ! sea1 & also !    
wat]s ( ! riv] z f> z "o c\ld ride into 
x on horseback & !n rea* ) ext5d$ sword4
  ,! ,tte de ,fl&re1 opposite ! c5tre ( 
! old] "p ( ! city1 m>ks ! end ( ,fl&]s 
prop] 9 ?is direction4 ,z already       
expla9$ by ! ,pr(essor1 h[ev]1 ,antw]p  
is none ! less ess5tially a ,flemi% city
 9 its art & ar*itecture1 its language &
 lit]ature1 & = _m c5turies ( its       
brilliant hi/ory1 & = ^! reasons des]ves
 a place 9 ?is book4  ,l ! ,c\nty (     
,fl&]s1 ! region surr\nd+ ,antw]p 0 an  
outly+ m>* or fronti] di/rict ( !       
,empire1 & its rul]s !re=e d]iv$ _!     

feudal title f ! ,emp]or4 ,ab\t ! ye>   
#aajj ! ,emp]or be/[$ ! m>* on ,godfrey 
( ! ,be>d1 ,c\nt ( ,l\va9 & fir/ ,duke (
 ,brabant4 ,to ! ,dukes ( ,brabant x    
!reaft] always belong$ until t title1 ) 
s _m o!rs1 became m]g$ 9 ^? acquir$ by !
 ,dukes ( ,burgundy & unit$ 9 _!        
illu/ri\s desc5dant1 ,*>les ,v4 ,on !   
:ole1 ! ,dukes1 be+ abs5tees1 7 easy    
rul]s--! %rewd burgh]s seiz+ ^u _!      
mom5ts ( weakness to wre/ new privileges
 f !m1 & rely+ ^u _! /r5g? = protection 
9 times ( dang]4 ,f "t immemorial !     
burgh]s claim$ a monopoly "r to trade 9 
fi%1 salt & oats4 ,o!r trad+ privileges 
foll[$1 & by ! "t ( ! fir/ ,duke (      
,brabant ! t[n 0 already an important   
"o1 ) a p[]ful ,burg1 or =tress1        
surr\nd+ five acres ( l& & build+s4     
,among ! latt] 0 ! ,/e51 or feudal      
prison1 a "p ( :i* /ill /&s close to !  
riv] & is us$ z a museum ( antiquities4 
,! e>ly ,dukes greatly ext5d$ !         
comm]cial rights & privileges ( ! t[n1  
,h5ry ,,iii grant+ a *>t] t all[$ its   

citiz5s to hold bread & meat m>kets &   
trade 9 corn & clo?4 ,duke ,john ,i     
grant$ rights 9 8 fam\s ,core van       
,antw]p51 dat$ ne>ly five hundr$ ye>s   
be=e ! ,decl>ation ( ,indep5d5ce1 t 7   
rem>kable = wisdom & lib]ality4 ,)9 !   
t[n ( ,antw]p1 ! *>t] read1 all m5 are  
free & !re are no slaves4 ,no inhabitant
 may be depriv$ ( 8 natural judges1 nor 
arre/$ 9 8 h\se on civil suit4 ,9 #acdi 
,duke ,john ,,iii grant$ a *>t] t n only
 confirm$ all ( its anci5t privileges1 b
 gave exceptional rights & lib]ties to  
=eign]s--caus+ _m ( !m to come & settle 
!re4 ,among ^! 0 ! "r grant$ to any     
dwell] )9 ! city to sue3 citiz5s accord+
 to local cu/oms1 =eign]s accord+ to !  
laws ( _! own l&s4 ,z at ,bruges & ,gh5t
 all ^! preci\s *>t]s 7 kept 9 a box    
hav+ _m locks1 ( :i* ! keys 7 kept by   
delegates ( ! ,broad ,c\ncil ( ! city4  
,?is box1 said ,mr4 ,wilfr$ ,rob9son1 9 
8 valuable hi/orical sket* ( ,antw]p1   
might only be op5$ 9 ! pres5ce ( all !  
civic au?orities1 :ile !y /ood ar\nd x  

b>ehead$ & hold+ light$ tap]s 9 _! h&s4 
,truly x mu/ h be5 a qua9t & solemn     
sc5e6  ,"s fifty ye>s prior to ! *>t]   
la/ m5tion$ ,duke ,john ,,ii m>ri$ "o ( 
! daught]s ( ,edw>d ,i1 ,k+ ( ,engl&1 & 
gave t mon>* ! city ( ,antw]p z a fief4 
,edw>d ,,iii us$ ! city z a naval base1 
& 9 #acci sign$ !re ) ,jacques ,van     
,artevelde a treaty ( alliance ) !      
communes ( ,brabant & ,fl&]s4 ,! ,k+s ( 
,engl& did n1 h[ev]1 reta9 _! suz]a9ty  
ov] ,antw]p v long1 = x next pass$--once
 m by m>riage--to ! daught] ( ,l\is (   
,maele1 ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s4 ,! city s\ght to
 resi/1 & ,c\nt ,l\is 0 oblig$ to       
besiege x & puni%$ ! burgh]s sev]ely =  
_! disob$i5ce4 ,on 8 dea? x pass$ to    
,philip ! ,bold1 ,duke ( ,burgundy1     
along ) ! entire ,c\nty ( ,fl&]s ( :i* x
 0 !n a "p1 & !reaft] rema9$ "u !       
,burgundian ,dukes & _! successors4  ,9 
#addf ,philip ! ,good--^: policy _h     
prov$ s disa/r\s to ,bruges &           
,gh5t--laid ! f\ndation = ! comm]cial   
greatness ( ,antw]p by a lib]al *>t] :i*

 he grant$ to ! ,m]*ant ,adv5tur]s (    
,engl&4 ,! ,engli% m]*ants _h already   
left ,bruges1 :]e ! ,riv] ,zwyn 0 fa/   
silt+ up1 & n[ came to ,antw]p &        
e/abli%$ !re a mo/ ext5sive trade4 ,!y 7
 foll[$ by ! m]*ants ( ! o!r nations1 & 
9 less ?an sev5ty-five ye>s aft] !      
grant+ ( ! *>t] ! population ( ! city _h
 d\bl$ twice--f less ?an sev5te5 ?\s& to
 ov] =ty--f\r ?\s& inhabitants4  ,x 0   
dur+ ?is p]iod t _m ( ! mo/ int]e/+     
/ructures ( old ,antw]p--! portion ( !  
city betwe5 ! ,/e5 & ! ca!dral & nor? ( 
! ,hotel de ,ville--7 built4 ,we sp5t   
sev]al int]e/+ morn+s tramp+ ^! qua9t   
old w9d+ /reets1 "s ( :i* are /ill z    
m$ival 9 aspect z any to be se5 9       
,europe4 ,! ,vielle ,b\*]ie1 rec5tly    
re/or$1 dates f ! reign ( ,l\is (       
,maele4 ,9 its "t x conta9$ /alls =     
fifty-?ree but*]s4 ,! /reets surr\nd+   
?is qua9t /ructure ( ragg$ brick are    
well nigh z anci5t & int]e/+ z !        
monum5ts :i* "o enc\nt]s "h & !re :ile  
explor+ !m4 ,! ,/e5 itself dates1 z we h

 se51 f ! v e>lie/ p]iod ( ! city's     
hi/ory1 b is only a remnant ( :at x 04  
,9 ! days ( ! ,spani% ,inquisition ?is  
grim old /ructure became a place (      
dread1 & its gloomy dungeons--:i* !     
*e]ful & smil+ guide %[$ u by c&lelight1
 = two c5ts a head--7 9 con/ant use = ! 
ent]ta9m5t ( gue/s ( ! ,m>graves & _!   
successors1 ! ,burgundian ,dukes1 = nigh
 on to eight c5turies4  ,illu/ration3   
,,! ,,vielle ,,b\*]ie1 ,,antw]p4  ,9    
#adhe ! rivalry betwe5 ,antw]p & ,bruges
 rea*$ ! po9t ( op5 w>4 ,! m5 ( ,bruges 
built a =t comm&+ ! ,riv] ,s*eldt at a  
po9t ne> ,calloo1 m\nt+ on x no less ?an
 sixty cannon4 ,! ,antw]p burgh]s met   
?is *all5ge by build+ a simil> =t at    
,au/ruwel1 & !n attack$ & captur$ !     
,flemi% =t on ,april #bc--,/4 ,george's 
,day4 ,a ye>ly procession /ill          
commemorates ?is victory 9 ! long conte/
 to ma9ta9 ! fre$om ( ! riv]4 ,a fleet (
 =ty-n9e m]*ant vessels t ! ,flem+s _h  
deta9$ came triumphantly up ! riv]1 & ! 
conflict = supremacy betwe5 ! old sea   

gateway ( ! ,ne!rl&s & ! new 0 settl$   
once = all--z f> z poor ,bruges 0       
conc]n$--9 fav\r ( ,antw]p1 ! new       
m>itime que5 ( ! ,nor?4  ,! riv] itself 
seem$ to fav\r ! prosp]ity ( ,antw]p1 z 
if pr\d & eag] to become ! h&maid5 ( s  
valiant & beautiful a city1 = ! we/]n   
entrance ( ! ,s*eldt gradually deep5$ at
 ab\t ?is p]iod--f causes t 9 ^? days no
 "o tri$ to und]/&4 ,?is gave ! port a  
deep *annel to ! sea to accommodate !   
gr[+ draught ( ocean-go+ %ips4 ,!       
discov]ies ( ,columbus & ,vasco da ,gama
 help$ ! port also4 ,until !n ,v5ice _h 
enjoy$ a monopoly ( ! sug> trade ( !    
,ea/4 ,n[ x came sea-borne to ,antw]p1 &
 ! =m]ly pr(itable ov]l& sug> trade     
betwe5 ,v5ice & ,g]many 0 ru9$4 ,?is    
caus$ ! ,portuguese to e/abli% a factory
 at ,antw]p4 ,! ,spani>ds foll[$1 :ile !
 ,engli% & ,italians enl>g$ _! w>eh\ses4
 ,sev]al great ,g]man trad+ h\ses op5$  
premises 9 ! city1 al?\gh ! ,hanseatic  
,league did n ab&on ,bruges = ,antw]p   
until #aede--;be+ ! v la/ to g4  ,:ile !

 decl9e ( ,bruges l$ ! pa9t]s ( t city  
to des]t x = its fa/-gr[+ rival on !    
,s*eldt1 ,qu5t9 ,matsys1 ! greate/ ( !  
e>ly ,antw]p arti/s1 does n seem to h   
d]iv$ mu* ( 8 inspiration f ! ma/]pieces
 ( ! ,bruges s*ool4 ,! e>ly *ronicles   
give a mo/ romantic acc\nt ( ! life (   
?is pa9t]1 :o 0 born at ,l\va9 ab\t     
#adff4 ,accord+ to ^! m or less leg5d>y 
/ories he 0 at fir/ a blacksmi?1 & *ang$
 to a pa9t] ?r\gh love = a damsel ^:    
fa!r 0 a great patron & admir] ( t art4 
,ano!r acc\nt has x t he took up pa9t+  
ow+ to illness1 fir/ col\r+ images ( !  
sa9ts su* z 7 !n giv5 to *ildr5 dur+ !  
c>nival4 ,blacksmi? he c]ta9ly 01 z 8   
fa!r _h be5 be=e him1 & ! wond]ful cov] 
= ! well 9 front ( ! ca!dral is 8       
h&iwork4 ,x seems probable1 h[ev]1 t he 
fir/ le>n$ ! art ( pa9t+ at ,l\va91     
probably z an appr5tice to ! son (      
,di]ick ,b\ts4 ,at ,antw]p he soon fell 
9 love ) a beautiful girl1 :o may h be5 
! model = "s ( 8 *>m+ ,madonnas4 ,! /ory
 is told by "o old *ronicl] t ! maid5's 

fa!r oppos$ ! mat* because ! "y suitor 0
 n a suffici5tly skilful arti/4 ,on a   
c]ta9 occasion ,matsys1 f9d+ 8 int5d$   
fa!r-9-law out1 pa9t$ a fly on "o ( !   
figures 9 a pa9t+ belong+ to him4 ,on 8 
return ! own] ( ! pa9t+ />t$ to bru% !  
fly (f &1 see+ 8 mi/ake1 he>tily admitt$
 t ! "y arti/ :o _h pa9t$ x m]it$ all   
praise & gave 8 cons5t to ! nuptials4   
,! museum at ,antw]p is ri* 9 ma/]pieces
 by ,matsys1 includ+ 8 greate/ "w1 ,!   
,entombm5t4 ,?is is a tripty*1 ! panels 
%[+ ,h]od's banquet ) ! head ( ,john !  
,bapti/ ly+ on ! table1 & ,/4 ,john 9 ! 
boil+ oil4 ,! ,madonna1 9 ! same museum1
 is "o ( ! sweete/ faces ev] pa9t$ among
 ! hundr$s ( ,madonnas t ab\nd 9 m$ival 
art1 & "o _c b feel t x is ! v face t   
won ! he>t ( ! arti/ & caus$ him to     
adopt pa9t+ z 8 pr(ession4 ,its         
resemblance to ! face ( ! ,madonna n[ 9 
! ,b]l9 museum /r5g!ns ?is !ory4 ,at    
,antw]p also !re are to be se5 ,! ,holy 
,face1 a companion pa9t+ to ! ,madonna j
 m5tion$1 & ! gruesome yet appeal+ ,veil

 ( ,v]onica1 %[+ ! livid face ( !       
,savi\r ) drops ( blood f ! cruel cr[n (
 ?orns trickl+ d[n across x4 ,! museum  
at ,brussels possesses ano!r ma/]piece1 
& ! olde/ dat$ picture by ?is arti/1 ,! 
,leg5d ( ,/4 ,anne1 :i* 0 complet$ 9    
#aeji = ! bro!rhood ( ,/4 ,anne at      
,l\va94 ,he also pa9t$ sev]al /rong &   
/rik+ portraits1 ( :i* ! be/ is t (     
,erasmus at ! ,/del ,in/itute at        
,frank=t4 ,matsys 0 "o ( ! fir/ ,flemi% 
arti/s to pres5t subjects ( e-day life z
 well z religi\s episodes & *>act]s4 ,! 
,bank] & 8 ,wife1 at ! ,l\vre 9 ,p>is1  
is ! f9e/ example ( ?is k9d4 ,!re are   
au!nticat$ works by ?is ma/] 9 a numb] (
 ,european museums1 :ile a consid]able  
numb] ( 8 pictures h become lo/ or h n z
 yet be5 id5tifi$4  ,illu/ration3 ,,!   
,,bank] ,,& ,,8 ,,wife4--,,matsys4      
,matsys is ! greate/ "n 9 ! hi/ory (    
,flemi% art betwe5 ! ma/]s ( ,bruges & !
 s*ool ( ,rub5s4 ,x 0 8 success t made  
,antw]p ! ,flor5ce ( ! ,nor?4 ,among    
,matsys' successors ,frans de ,vri5dt1  

bett] kn[n z ,frans ,floris1 0 "o ( !   
mo/ notable4 ,he 0 a memb] ( ! ,antw]p  
guild ( ,/4 ,luke at ! age ( tw5ty-?ree1
 & produc$ a va/ numb] ( works1 _m ( :i*
 c /ill be se5 scatt]$ among ! *ur*es & 
art collections ( ,fl&]s4 ,he _h ov] "o 
hundr$ pupils1 ( :om ,m>t9 de ,vos      
a*iev$ ! greate/ fame4 ,z ?is pa9t]     
work$ aft] ! de/ruction ( !             
image-break]s _m ( 8 religi\s subjects  
survive to ?is day4 ,! ,antw]p museum   
conta9s no less ?an tw5ty-?ree ( 8      
works1 z aga9/ only f\r by 8 ma/]4 ,bo? 
( ^! arti/s1 h[ev]1 7 pr(\nd admir]s ( !
 ,italian s*ool1 & ! "w ( ,floris       
especially--?\gh va/ly admir$ 9 8       
day--is n[ look$ ^u z m ,italian ?an    
,flemi%1 m imitative ?an orig9al4  ,?is 
_c be said ( ! next really great pa9t]  
to appe> 9 ,fl&]s1 ,pet] ,breughel !    
,eld]4 ,born at ! little village (      
,breughel1 ne> ,br$a 9 ,brabant1 ab\t   
#aebf1 ?is arti/ /udi$ = a "t 9         
,italy--z did all ( 8 contempor>ies--&  
!n settl$ at ,antw]p4 ,"h he obta9$ !   

!mes ( _m ( 8 mo/ fam\s compositions4 ,9
 ! port1 9 ! tav]n1 9 ! fairs (         
neighb\r+ villages1 says ,pr(4 ,a4 ,j4  
,waut]s1 meet+ n[ a "y c\ple 9 ! giddy  
dance1 or a drunk>d /umbl+ 9 8 pa?1 he  
s\ght ! humble spectacle ( homely ?+s1 !
 noisy mir? ( ru/ic fe/ivities1 & 0     
always 9 que/ ( e-day subjects1 :i* e>n$
 = him1 at ! h&s ( po/]ity1 ! surname ( 
',breughel ( ,peasants4' ,he lat] remov$
 to ,brussels1 :]e he receiv$ _m        
commissions1 p>ticul>ly f ! ,emp]or     
,rudolph ,,ii1 :o greatly admir$ 8 "w4  
,sev]al ( 8 *ief ma/]pieces are !re=e 9 
! ,imp]ial ,museum at ,vi5na1 b ! ,royal
 ,museum at ,antw]p conta9s f\r ( 8     
works1 :ile sev]al o!rs are scatt]$ ab\t
 ,europe4  ,illu/ration3 ,,w9t]4--,,pet]
 ,,breughel4  ,to ! lov] ( ,flemi%      
pa9t+s ,breughel is "o ( ! mo/          
*>act]i/ic & *>m+ ( !m all4 ,8 art is   
di/9ctively ,flemi%1 9 subject1 treatm5t
 & inspiration4 ,some:at influ5c$ p]haps
 by ,j]ome ,bos*1 a ,brabant pa9t] ( !  
previ\s c5tury r5[n$ = 8 weird &        

ecc5tric conceptions1 ,breughel is nev] 
conv5tional4 ,8 "w is t ( a hum\ri/1 a  
satiri/ :o sees ! follies ( ! _w b      
laughs at !m4 ,8 pictures are admirable 
9 _! col\r+1 execution & ! gr\p+ ( !    
figures1 & !y are especially int]e/+ 9  
_! vivid portrayal ( ! e-day ,flemi%    
life ( ! times 9 :i* he liv$4  ,!       
visitor to ,antw]p _c fail to obs]ve !  
images ( ! ,virg9 plac$ at ! corn]s (   
ne>ly e /reet 9 ! old] qu>t] ( ! city4  
,^! are said to be due to ! ,long       
,wapp]1 a some:at humor\s b none ! less 
grim & t]rify+ fi5d :o 0 wont1 _m       
c5turies ago1 to play weird pranks ^u ! 
good p ( ,antw]p aft] nightfall4 ,he us$
 to lie 9 wait = wayf>]s ^u des]t$      
by-/reets 9 ! uncanny h\rs betwe5       
midnight & dawn4 ,p\nc+ ^u 8 t]rifi$    
victims1 he w\ld c>ry !m (f1 sometimes  
nev] to return4 ,n[ & !n he assum$ ! =m 
( a lo/ baby1 to :i*1 be+ f\nd by "s    
*>itable "m1 ! brea/ 0 giv54 ,pres5tly !
 good woman discov]$ to h] horror t !   
f\ndl+ 0 swell+ & becom+ heavy1 & :5 %e 

put x d[n ! ,wapp] assum$ 8 own %ape &  
ran (f %riek+4 ,at times he pe]$ into   
*ur* w9d[s & h[l$ & gibb]$ at !         
wor%ipp]s1 & aft]w>ds fright5$ !m       
t]ribly z !y w5t homew>d1 or1 /ret*+ 8  
body to an incr$ible l5g?1 he pe]$ into 
! upp] w9d[s ( p's h\ses4 ,m5 fe>$ to   
speak evil ( ! ,long ,wapp]1 = some?+   
t]rible 0 c]ta9 to happ5 to ^? :o did4  
,at la/ x 0 f\nd t he w\ld nev] pass an 
image ( ! ,virg91 & t is :y s _m 7      
erect$ t f9ally ! evil fi5d _h no m     
/reets left 9 :i* to play 8 mad pranks &
 left ,antw]p = ! lonely moors & dunes  
along ! seacoa/ :]e he is /ill said to  
be se54  ,! place mo/ frequ5t$ by !     
,long ,wapp] 0 a little /ream :i* came  
to be call$ ! ,wapp]srui 9 consequ5ce1 &
 a bridge across x ! ,wapp]sbrucke4 ,"h 
he (t5 /rode out ( ! wat] ) 8 long ?9   
legs ext5d+ f> d[n into its d>k dep?s l 
two black /ilts4 ,once he _h rea*$ !    
embankm5t he %rank in/antly to a        
dim9utive size--usually tak+ ! =m ( a   
s*oolboy4 ,^! fir/ appe>ances 7 g5]ally 

betwe5 daylight & d>k1 :5 ! twilight    
made x difficult to di/+ui% faces       
cle>ly1 & he always took ! place ( "s   
boy :o happ5$ to be abs5t4 ,a fav\rite  
game ( ! boys1 :o 7 !n return+ f s*ool1 
0 call$ %ove-hat4 ,9 ?is game "o boy    
toss$ 8 hat on ! gr\nd & ! o!rs %ov$ &  
kick$ x ab\t ) _! feet :ile its own]    
s\ght to rega9 x4 ,:5 x came ! turn ( ! 
,long ,wapp] to ?r[ d[n 8 hat ! fir/ "o 
to give x a kick broke 8 wood5 %oe to   
pieces & fractur$ 8 toes1 = ! hat prov$ 
to be a heavy iron pot4 ,!n ! /reet e*o$
 ) a je]+ ,ha1 ha1 ha6 b ! ,wapp] _h    
disappe>$4  ,8 pranks ^u gr[n-up p 7 apt
 to be f> m s]i\s 9 _! consequ5ces ?an  
^? j describ$4 ,(t5 he paus$ at "s tav]n
 door & jo9$ ! p>ty seat$ !re 9 a game (
 c>ds1 :i* inv>iably result$ 9 a viol5t 
qu>rel 9 ! c\rse ( :i* "o or m ( !      
play]s 0 usually kill$4 ,on ano!r       
occasion he appe>$ 9 broad daylight     
sell+ mussels4 ,enc\nt]+ f\r wom5 sitt+ 
outside _! door at "w he op5$ a mussel &
 (f]$ x to "o ( !m4 ,%e ta/$ x1 b x     

turn$ into dirt 9 h] m\?4 ,apologis+1 he
 op5$ ano!r1 :i* all c\ld see 0 a s\nd1 
f9e mussel1 & (f]$ x to ano!r ( ! wom54 
,no soon] 0 x 9 h] m\? ?an x turn$ into 
a huge spid]4 ,! wom5 !reupon set ^u    
him1 b he def5d$ himself s rudely t two 
( !m 7 ne>ly kill$1 :5 he sudd5ly       
vani%$1 leav+ only an e*o ( wild        
laught]4  ,9 ! c\ntry to ! ea/ ( ,antw]p
 !re are _m qua9t leg5ds /ill told at ! 
peasants' firesides on /ormy w9t] nights
 ab\t ! ,kab\t]mannek5s :o 9 anci5t     
times frequ5t$ t neighb\rhood4 ,ne> !   
village ( ,gelrode !re is a small hill  
on ! sides ( :i* are _m little caves :i*
 7 =m]ly ! abode ( ^! fairies1 ! hill   
be+ call$ ! ,kab\t]b]g to ?is day 9     
consequ5ce4 ,!re is a simil> hill1 call$
 ,kab\t]mannek5sb]g1 betwe5 ,turnh\t &  
,ca/]le4 ,!y 7 also call$ ,r$ ,caps or  
,klabb]s1 & 7 usually clad 9 r$ f head  
to foot1 & (t5 _h gre5 h&s & faces1     
accord+ to ^? :o 7 s =tunate z to see   
!m4 ,^! little gnomes or elves seem to h
 resembl$ _! k9d z report$ 9 ! folk-lore

 ( o!r nor!rn c\ntries1 be+ ! will+ &   
loyal slaves ( ^? :o treat$ !m k9dly1 & 
! bitt]1 & sometimes dang]\s1 enemies ( 
^? :o misus$ !m4  ,/ill ano!r local     
sprite--?is "t a _s ( evil resembl+ 9 "s
 respects ! ,long ,wapp]--0 kn[n z      
,kludde4 ,?is fi5d 0 (t5 met ) aft] d>k 
9 _m p>ts ( ,fl&]s1 & ev5 9 ,brabant4   
,at times ,kludde w\ld appe> to !       
peasants z ! dusk ( twilight 0 deep5+   
into ! int5se d>kness ( night on !      
,flemi% pla9s1 9 ! guise ( an old1      
half-/>v$ horse4 ,if a f>m] or /able-boy
 mi/ook him = "o ( 8 own horses & m\nt$ 
on ,kludde he in/antly ru%$ (f at an    
incr$ible spe$ until he came to "s wat] 
into :i* he pit*$ 8 t]rifi$ rid]        
headlong4 ,?is accompli%$ to 8          
satisfaction he vani%$1 cry+ ,kludde1   
,kludde6 z he w5t away1 :5ce came 8 "n4 
,,*apt] ,,xix  ,,?ree ,,c5turies ,,(    
,,antw]p ,,pr9t]s   ,! joy\s entry ( !  
boy pr9ce :o 0 aft]w>d to become ,*>les 
,v 0 ! signal = t5 days ( rejoic+ by !  
citiz5s ( ,antw]p4 ,?is 0 e>ly 9 ! ye>  

#aeae2 &1 9 tru?1 ! city prosp]$        
mightily "u ! rule ( ! great ,emp]or1 :o
 fav\r$ x on _m notable occasions4 ,!   
bank]s & m]*ant pr9ces ( ,antw]p became 
r5[n$ ! _w ov] = _! weal? & magnific5ce4
 ,an?ony ,fugg]1 :o 0 ! bank] (         
,maximilian & ,*>les ,v1 left a =tune ( 
six million gold5 cr[ns1 & x is said t 8
 "n survives to ?is day z a synonym =   
weal?--! common p call+ any "o :o is    
extremely ri* a rykke ,fokk]1 a ri*     
,fugg]4 ,x is relat$ t ano!r ri* ,antw]p
 m]*ant1 ,gasp>o ,dozzo1 on be+         
privileg$ to ent]ta9 ! ,emp]or 9 8 h\se1
 ca/ into ! fire a promissory note = a  
l>ge loan he _h =m]ly made to 8         
sov]eign4  ,?is p]iod ( weal? &         
prosp]ity cont9u$ till ! v end ( ! reign
 ( ! ,emp]or1 b "u 8 successor1 ,philip 
,,ii1 ! city 0 plung$ into mis=tunes &  
mis]ies z swift & z appall+ z ^? t      
befell 9 ! t]rible ,fall ( #aiad4 ,9    
#aeef ,philip op5$ a *apt] ( ! ,knights 
( ! ,gold5 ,fleece at ,/4 ,m>y's1       
aft]w>d ! ca!dral1 9 ,antw]p--!reby     

recognis+ ! supremacy ( ?is t[n ov] !   
o!rs 9 8 ,flemi% dom9ions4 ,among ! new 
knights to :om he gave ! accolade 7     
,william ! ,sil5t & ! ,c\nt ( ,horn4    
,little m5 ?\ght on t day ( fe/ivity &  
good w :at ! future held 9 /ore = !m    
all6  ,on ,augu/ #ah1 #aeff1 ! miracul\s
 /atue ( ! ,bless$ ,virg9 0 tak5 f its  
place 9 ,/4 ,m>y's *ur* & c>ri$ ?r\gh ! 
/reets ( ! city 9 a solemn procession--z
 x _h be5 = ne>ly two hundr$ ye>s4 ,?is 
"t !re 7 murmurs ( disapproval f ! cr[ds
 t l9$ ! /reets1 "s /ones 7 ?r[n1 & !   
procession ha/ily return$ to ! *ur*4 ,! 
next day a small mob1 compos$ = ! mo/ "p
 ( boys & m5 ( ! l[e/ class1 ent]$ !    
*ur* & de/roy$ ! /atue & ! entire       
cont5ts ( ! sacr$ edifice1 includ+ "s   
sev5ty alt>s1 & pa9t+s & /atues almo/   
)\t numb]4 ,! organ1 !n ! wond] (       
,europe1 0 ru9$1 & ! rabble dress$      
itself 9 ! co/ly ve/m5ts ( ! cl]gy &    
c>ri$ away ! treasures ( ! *ur* & ev5 ! 
cont5ts ( ! poor boxes4 ,?is 0 ! beg9n+ 
( ! "w ( ! image-break]s1 z !y came to  

be call$1 :i* spread ?r\gh\t ,fl&]s     
until sc>cely a religi\s edifice _h     
escap$ ! de/ruction ( its movable       
cont5ts1 :ile a few "h & !re 7 burn$4 ,z
 not$ 9 ! *apt] on ,aud5a]de1 ,m>g>et ( 
,p>ma 0 ,reg5t at ?is "t & act$         
resolutely to suppress ! disord]s--:i* 7
 l>gely due to ! sup9e attitude ( !     
local magi/rates at ! beg9n+4  ,%e _h   
all b succe$$ 9 re/or+ peace & quiet    
?r\gh\t ,fl&]s :5 ,philip sudd5ly decid$
 to s5d an army !re1 & select$ ! ,duke (
 ,alva to comm& x4 ,! /ory ( ! eighty   
ye>s' w> t foll[$ is famili> to e       
,am]ican ?r\gh ,motley's acc\nt ( x1    
al?\gh t brilliant writ] is m conc]n$ ) 
! details relat+ to ! ,dut* prov9ces ?an
 ^? reg>d+ ! portion ( ! ,ne!rl&s t     
rema9$ subject to ,spa94 ,two ev5ts1    
h[ev]1 9 ! long w> 7 s directly conc]n$ 
) ,antw]p1 & loom s l>ge 9 its hi/ory1 t
 !y _c be pass$ ov] "h4 ,bo? h a r5ew$  
int]e/ 9 view ( ! hi/ory ( ,antw]p's    
late/ siege 9 #aiad4 ,^! are ! ,spani%  
,fury1 & ! great siege ( ! city by !    

,duke ( ,p>ma4  ,alva1 :o sup]s$$ !     
g5tle ,m>g>et ( ,p>ma z ,reg5t ( !      
,ne!rl&s1 quickly took /]n measures = ! 
repression ( fur!r disord]s at ,antw]p1 
:i* he reg>d$ z a hot-b$ ( h]esy4 ,a    
huge citadel 0 built at ! s\!rn end ( ! 
t[n1 ne> ! ,s*eldt1 9 #aegb1 9 ! c5tre (
 :i* ,alva erect$ a bronze /atue (      
himself4 ,on ! m>ble p$e/al !           
inscription relat$ h[ ! mo/ fai?ful     
m9i/] ( ! be/ ( ,k+s _h /amp$ out       
s$ition1 repell$ ! rebels1 set up       
religion1 & re/or$ ju/ice & peace to !  
c\ntry4 ,s f> 7 ^! boa/s f be+ true t   
only ! foll[+ ye>1 9 #aegc1 ,alva /ole  
away to ,spa9 secretly1 8 gov]nm5t a    
failure1 8 army mut9\s1 & half ( !      
c\ntry he _h be5 s5t to rule 9 op5 &    
successful revolt4 ,w> ) ,engl& _h ru9$ 
! comm]ce ( ,antw]p1 ,alva's fiscal     
policy & incessant taxes _h half begg>$ 
! p ( ! entire c\ntry1 :ile ?\s&s ( !   
noble/ & brave/ 9 ! l& _h met dea? on ! 
scaffold or 9 ! torture *amb]s ( !      
,inquisition4  ,reques5s1 ! next ,reg5t1

 0 unable ei!r to /em ! ris+ tide (     
revolt or to pay 8 soldi]s--,k+ ,philip 
fail+ to s5d funds until ! pay ( !      
,spani% vet]ans 0 at "o "t tw5ty-two    
mon?s 9 arre>s4 ,! sudd5 dea? (         
,reques5s 9 #aegf left matt]s 9 a ne>ly 
*aotic condition4 ,! vet]ans :o _h be5  
fight+ 9 ,zeel& aga9/ ! ,dut* mut9i$ &  
return+ to ,fl&]s captur$ ! t[n ( ,alo/1
 :]e !y =c$ ! citiz5s to give !m food & 
%elt]4 ,on ,novemb] #d?1 #aegf1 !       
mut9e]s m>*$ to ,antw]p1 "s two ?\s&    
/rong1 :]e !y jo9$ ! ,spani>ds &        
m]c5>ies 9 ! citadel4 ,!y 7 "u ! comm& (
 an ,eletto1 or elect$ lead]4 ,j]ome    
,roda1 a ,spani>d1 _h proclaim$ himself 
! comm&ant ( ! =tress until ! new       
,reg5t1 ,don ,john ( ,au/ria1 %\ld      
arrive 9 ,fl&]s4 ,"u ^! two wor?ies !   
comb9$ =ces 9 ! citadel1 "s five ?\s& m5
 9 all1 proce$$ to attack ! city4 ,!    
citiz5s1 on _! side1 _h = "s "t fe>$ su*
 an attack & %\ld h be5 able to repel x4
 ,!re 7 f\rte5 ?\s& arm$ burgh]s1 f\r   
?\s& ,walloons & an equal numb] ( ,g]man

 troops--tw5ty-two ?\s& 9 all4 ,x may h 
be5 t !y felt unduly secure aga9/ an    
attack on t day because x 0 ,sunday4 ,x 
is c]ta9 t !y 7 badly comm&$4  ,%ortly  
aft] noon ! ,spani>ds ru%$ f ! citadel &
 across ! broad op5 esplanade cle>$ a   
few ye>s be=e by ,alva1 %\t+ _! w> cry1 
,sant ,jago y ci]ra ,espaa4 ,! ,eletto 0
 ! fir/ to fall1 b ! ru% ( furi\s       
soldi]s 0 n to be /opp$ by a s+le       
volley4 ,! ,walloons put up a brave     
fight b "p ( ! ,g]mans trea*]\sly l[]$  
_! pikes & let ! ,spani>ds pass d[n !   
rue ,/4 ,georges4 ,on ! ,place de ,meir 
! def5d]s made ano!r /&1 b 7 swiftly    
swept back 9 a confus$ & disorganis$    
mass by ! ,spani% cavalry4 ,at ! ,hotel 
de ,ville ! burgh]s f\ght fi]cely until 
! mut9e]s set fire to ! edifice4 ,9 !   
conflagration t foll[$ n only ?is noble 
/ructure1 "o ( ! f9e/ 9 ,europe1 b !    
adjo9+ guild h\ses & "s eighty o!r      
build+s 7 consum$4 ,( ! ,hotel de ,ville
 only ! black5$ walls rema9$4 ,by       
nightfall ! ,spani>ds & ! ,g]man        

m]c5>ies1 mo/ ( :om _h jo9$ ! victors 9 
ord] to %>e 9 ! spoils1 7 ma/]s ( !     
doom$ city4  ,t night ! sc5es ( pillage 
& rap9e z ! savage & half drunk5 soldi]s
 swept ?r\gh ! /reets & ransack$ ! h\ses
 ( all :o did n in/antly pay a /iff     
ransom1 exce$ ! descriptive p[]s ( !    
contempor>y hi/orians4 ,"o ( !          
burgoma/]s 0 /abb$ to end a qu>rel z to 
8 ransom4 ,_m burgh]s 7 kill$ ne> ! t[n 
hall1 or 7 burn$ )9 x l rats4 ,= ?ree   
days ! city 0 giv5 up to be sack$4 ,!   
numb] :o 7 kill$1 includ+ wom5 & *ildr51
 has be5 v>i\sly e/imat$ at f sev5 ?\s& 
to sev5te5 ?\s& ( ! citiz5s & def5d]s ( 
! city1 & f two hundr$ & fifty to six   
hundr$ ( ! ,spani>ds4 ,! loss 9 prop]ty 
am\nt$ to _m millions1 b no accurate    
e/imate c\ld be made ( x1 z _m :o suff]$
 mo/ 9 ?is respect lo/ _! lives z well4 
,c>tloads ( plund] 7 s5t out ( ! city1  
:ile mu* ( x 0 actually sold by ^? :o   
did n c>e or d>e to keep x 9 a tempor>y 
m>ket-place at ! ,b\rse4 ,"s 7 said to h
 conceal$ _! weal? by hav+ sword hilts &

 brea/plates made ( solid gold4 ,l !    
ill-gott5 ga9s ( ! ,spani>ds 9 ,am]ica1 
h[ev]1 none ( ?is booty--! rew>d (      
trea*]y1 ( assass9ation1 ( cruelty & !  
sudd5 sett+ free ( all ! base/ elem5ts 9
 human nature--pr(it$ its captors v     
greatly4 ,9 a few days aft] ! arrival ( 
,don ,john1 ! new ,reg5t1 ! mut9\s      
soldi]s 7 paid (f & m>*$ away to        
,mae/ri*t & pres5tly to o!r             
battlefields1 f ,fl&]s to ,lomb>dy1 :]e1
 no d\bt1 mo/ ( ! gold5 brea/plates &   
sword hilts fell--9 due "t--to o!r      
conqu]ors4 ,su* 0 ! ,spani% ,fury--until
 #aiad ! wor/ blot on civilisation t    
hi/ory records4  ,soon aft] ! ,spani>ds 
left ! city p]mission 0 giv5 to ! p to  
de/roy ! citadel t ! tyrant ,alva _h    
built to ov]awe ! t[n4 ,! entire        
population flock$ to ?is welcome        
task--m51 wom5 & *ildr51 ea* tak+ a     
%ovel1 a basket or a b>r[4 ,x is relat$ 
t ev5 ! great ladies ( ! city took "p 9 
! "w ( demolition--s hat$ _h ! grim     
=tress become4 ,! /atue ( ! cruel ,duke 

t he _h s va+lori\sly erect$ 9 ! c5tre (
 ! citadel only five ye>s be=e 0 torn   
d[n & dragg$ ?r\gh ! /reets by a *e]+   
?rong4 ,*>les ,v]lat has giv5 ! _w a    
vivid picture ( ?is incid5t :i* hangs 9 
! ,antw]p museum4  ,illu/ration3        
,,dragg+ ,,! ,,/atue ,,( ,,! ,,duke ,,( 
,,alva ,,?r\gh ,,! ,,/reets ,,(         
,,antw]p4--,c4 ,,v]lat4  ,six ye>s lat] 
! ,duke d',al5on1 :o _h be5 made nom9al 
sov]eign ov] ! ,l[ ,c\ntries by ,william
 ! ,sil5t1 plann$ to trea*]\sly attack &
 sack ! city ) 8 ,fr5* soldi]s1 "s ?ree 
?\s&1 five hundr$ /rong4 ,?is "t1 h[ev]1
 ! citiz5s 7 n caught napp+ & :5 ! tocs9
 9 ! ca!dral call$ ! al>m ! burgh]s ru%$
 out 9 ?\s&s4 ,! ,fr5* swa%buckl]s prov$
 to be less /ubborn fight]s ?an !       
,spani% vet]ans & soon 7 driv5 back 9 a 
confus$ mass to ! city gates1 mo/ ( !m  
be+ kill$ & ! c[>dly ,duke only sav+    
himself by flight4 ,?is episode has be5 
d]isively call$ ! ,fr5* ,fury4 ,x happ5$
 ,janu>y #ag1 #aehc4  ,! foll[+ ye>     
,alex&] ,f>nese1 ! ,duke ( ,p>ma--& !   

son ( ! ,du*ess ( ,p>ma1 ^: c>e] z      
,reg5t ( ! ,ne!rl&s 0 briefly describ$ 9
 ! *apt] on ,aud5a]de1 h]               
bir?place--det]m9$ to besiege ,antw]p1  
:i*1 s9ce ! ,spani% ,fury1 _h fall5 into
 ! h&s ( ! revolt$ ,prov9ces4           
,un=tunately = its def5d]s1 ,william !  
,sil5t _h j di$ at ! h&s ( an assass9 & 
8 plans = ! protection ( ! city by      
flood+ all ( ! m>%es surr\nd+ x 7 n     
foll[$4 ,! but*]s oppos$ flood+ all ( _!
 pa/ure l&s & ! important ,k[5/e9 ,dyke 
0 n cut4 ,! ,pr9ce ( ,p>ma1 :o 0 !      
greate/ milit>y lead] ( 8 age1 swiftly  
captur$ ! =ts on ! ,flemi% side ( !     
riv]1 seiz$ ! ,k[5/e9 ,dyke--:i* ext5d$ 
on ! ,brabant side f a po9t opposite    
,calloo to ,/>broeck--& began to build a
 bridge across ! riv] itself4 ,?is d>+  
project1 if successful1 w\ld completely 
isolate ,antw]p f ! sea & its ,dut*     
allies & r5d] c]ta9 its ultimate        
subjection by />vation4  ,! bridge 0    
built p>tly on piles1 z f> out z ! wat] 
0 suffici5tly %all[1 !n ! int]v5+ gap 0 

spann$ by means ( ?irty-two l>ge vessels
 an*or$ at bo? ends & la%$ toge!r by    
*a9s & heavy cables4 ,! /ructure 0      
complet$ 9 ,febru>y1 #aehe1 to !        
amazem5t ( ! besieg$ burgh]s & ! great  
joy ( ! ,pr9ce's army4 ,x w\ld seem a   
small affair to ! pontoon bridge build]s
 ( to-day1 be+ two ?\s&1 f\r hundr$ feet
 long & twelve feet wide1 b at t "t x 0 
deem$ "o ( ! mo/ notable a*ievem5ts ev] 
kn[n4 ,! def5d]s ( ! city s5t huge      
fire%ips d[n ! riv] to de/roy ! bridge4 
,"o ( ^! actually explod$ aga9/ !       
/ructure & ano!r (f ,calloo1 de/roy+ m  
?an eight hundr$ ,spani% soldi]s &      
endang]+ _! intrepid lead] himself4 ,!  
bridge 0 wreck$1 b ,f>nese repair$ x    
be=e ! p at ,antw]p le>n$ ( ! success ( 
_! attempt4  ,a trem5d\s attack 0 next  
made on ! ,k[5/e9 ,dyke1 ) a view to    
cutt+ x--a feat t c\ld h be5 done )\t   
any tr\ble if ! ,pr9ce ( ,orange's      
c\nsels _h be5 foll[$ a few mon?s e>li]4
 ,a fleet ( "o hundr$ & fifty ,dut* %ips
 jo9$ 9 ! battle f ! sea side1 :ile a   

/rong =ce ( ,flem+s1 ,engli% & ,dut* f  
,antw]p attack$ ! dyke f ! l& side4     
,aft] a fi]ce /ruggle x 0 cut1 ! wat]s  
ru%$ ?r\gh & "o vessel load$ )          
provisions = ! beleagu]$ city made its  
way pa/4 ,t night ,antw]p rejoic$1 b 9 !
 d>kness ! ,pr9ce ( ,p>ma made ano!r    
furi\s assault & f9ally drove back !    
allies1 captur+ tw5ty-eight %ips ( !    
,dut* fleet & fill+ 9 ! dyke once m4    
,?is victory--:i* z a feat ( arms 0 "o (
 ! mo/ brilliant ( ! w>--seal$ ! fate ( 
! city1 :i* f9ally capitulat$ ,augu/    
#ag?4 ,s important 0 ?is success to !   
,spani%1 cause t ,isabella1 ! daught] ( 
,k+ ,philip1 0 awak5$ by h] fa!r dur+ ! 
night by ! tid+s1 ,antw]p is ours6 ,its 
fall settl$ approximately ! ext5t ( !   
region t 0 left to ! ,spani% ,cr[n out (
 ! wreck ( its =m] empire 9 ! ,l[       
,c\ntries4 ,!nce=? all ( ! prov9ces to !
 we/ & s\? ( ,antw]p--! region n[       
compris$ 9 ! ,k+dom ( ,belgium--rema9$  
subject to ! ,k+ ( ,spa9 & 8 ,au/rian   
successors until ! great ,fr5*          

,revolution4 ,! rema9+ prov9ces became !
 ,dut* ,republic & n[ =m ! ,k+dom (     
,holl&4  ,! ,spani% ,fury & ! great     
siege _h toge!r well-nigh de/roy$ !     
comm]ce ( ! port1 & ! heavy f9e impos$  
by ! conqu]ors ^u ! city = its rebellion
 complet$ its ru94 ,packs ( wild dogs   
are said to h roam$ unmole/$ ?r\gh !    
outly+ villages1 :i* /ood des]t$1 :ile  
ev5 wolves 7 se54 ,grass grew 9 ! once  
cr[d$ /reets ( ! city1 & fam9e add$ to !
 mis]ies ( its fa/ decl9+ population4 ,x
 w\ld h>dly be conceivable t a qu>t] ( a
 c5tury ( hide\s misrule c\ld h s utt]ly
 oblit]at$ ! prosp]ity ( ?is once opul5t
 city1 b = ! fe>ful object lesson af=d$ 
9 #aiad t w> is /ill z pot5t a bre$] (  
de/ruction & despair z x 0 9 t d>k age4 
,en\gh1 h[ev]1 ( w>s & sieges & ! sack (
 cities4 ,antw]p's pa/ includes _m      
pleasant] /ories z well--/ories (       
progress & a*ievem5t4 ,to ^? :o are     
int]e/$ 9 ! noble art ( pr9t+1 & ! v>i\s
 bran*es ( ! f9e arts t s]ve z h&maids  
to ! pr9t]1 ,antw]p possesses "o ( !    

r>e/ treasure-h\ses 9 ! _w4 ,?is is !   
,museum ,plant9-,moretus1 = ?ree        
c5turies ! head (fice & work%op ( !     
great pr9t+-h\se ^: "n x be>s4          
,*ri/oph] ,plant91 ! f\nd] ( ?is fam\s  
e/abli%m5t1 0 by bir? a ,fr5*man--hav+  
fir/ se5 ! light ( day 9 ! vic9ity (    
,t\rs 9 ! ye> #aead4 ,flee+ f ! plague )
 8 fa!r to ,lyons1 he w5t f !re to      
,orleans1 to ,p>is1 & f9ally to ,ca5 9  
,norm&y1 :]e he le>n$ ! art ( pr9t+ f   
,rob]t ,mace4 ,"h also he met ,jeanne   
,rivire1 :o became 8 wife 9 #aede or    
#aedf4 ,! c\ple soon w5t to ,p>is1 :]e  
,plant9 le>n$ ! art ( bookb9d+ & ( mak+ 
caskets & o!r articles ( elegance f     
lea!r4 ,9 #aedi he came to ,antw]p & !  
foll[+ ye> 0 enroll$ z a citiz5 & also z
 a memb] ( ! fam\s guild ( ,/4 ,luke ) !
 title ( pr9t]4 ,he does n appe> to h   
foll[$ ?is pr(ession1 h[ev]1 b spe$ily  
ga9$ mu* r5[n = 8 exquisite workman%ip z
 a bookb9d] & casket mak]1 f9d+ sev]al  
weal?y patrons & protectors-among !m    
,gabriel de ayas1 ,secret>y ( ,philip   

,,ii1 !n ! mo/ p[]ful mon>* 9 ,*ri/5dom4
  ,9 ! ye> #aeee1 :ile on 8 way to      
deliv] 9 p]son a jewel-case he _h j made
 = ?is cli5t1 he met ) an adv5ture t    
*ang$ ! c\rse ( 8 c>e]4 ,x 0 q d>k be=e 
he _h complet$ 8 err&1 & z he made 8 way
 along ! n>r[1 ill-lit /reets ( ! old   
city he 0 set ^u by a p>ty ( drunk5     
revell]s :o mi/ook him1 ) ! casket "u 8 
arm1 = a guit> play] aga9/ :om !y _h "s 
grievance4 ,"o ( ! p>ty ran ! un=tunate 
casket-mak] ?r\gh ! body ) 8 sword1 & he
 _h b>ely /r5g? en\gh to drag himself   
home1 m ne>ly dead ?an alive4 ,skilful  
m$ical & surgical aid f9ally sav$ 8     
life1 b left him unable to d any manual 
"w4 ,he !re=e gave up 8 casket-mak+ &   
resum$ ! trade ( pr9t]1 :i* he _h le>n$ 
at ,ca54 ,in/ead ( a mis=tune1 z x no   
d\bt seem$ at ! "t1 ?is sword ?ru/ prov$
 ! turn+ po9t 9 8 c>e]1 = 9 8 new       
pr(ession he 0 de/9$ to a*ieve undy+    
fame4  ,!re 7 at ?is "t no less ?an     
sixty-six pr9t+ e/abli%m5ts 9 ! ,l[     
,c\ntries1 ( :i* ?irte5 7 at ,antw]p1 "s

 ( ! latt] rivall+ ! be/ pr9t]s ( ,p>is1
 ,basel & ,v5ice 9 ! beauty ( _!        
productions4 ,plant9's fir/ book 0 issu$
 ! ye> ( 8 accid5t1 9 #aeee1 & 0 entitl$
 ,la ,in/itutione di una fanciulla nata 
nobilm5te4 ,dur+ ! next sev5 ye>s 8     
presses turn$ out a limit$ numb] (      
works1 b 9 #aefb 8 (fice 0 raid$ by ord]
 ( ! ,reg5t1 ,m>g>et1 ! ,du*ess ( ,p>ma1
 & ?ree ( 8 workm5 seiz$ & condemn$ to !
 galleys = a h]etical book !y _h pr9t$  
unkn[n to him1 entitl$ ,briefve         
in/ruction p\r pri]4 ,plant9 fl$ to     
,france1 & to avoid confiscation he _h  
"s ( 8 fri5ds1 act+ z cr$itors1 sell &  
buy 9 8 pr9t+ plant4 ,! foll[+ ye>--hav+
 conv9c$ ! ,gov]nm5t ( 8 or?odoxy--he   
return$ to ,antw]p & organis$ a company 
consi/+ ( himself & f\r p>tn]s1 includ+ 
"s ( 8 pret5d$ cr$itors4 ,:ile ?is      
arrangem5t la/$1 f #aefc to #aefg1 m ?an
 two hundr$ books 7 pr9t$1 & =ty workm5 
kept con/antly employ$4 ,8 "w 0 already 
consid]$ notable = ! beauty ( its type &
 excell5ce ( ! pap] us$4  ,soon aft] !  

p>tn]%ip 0 dissolv$ ,plant9 und]took :at
 0 de/9$ to be ! greate/ "w ( 8 c>e]1 & 
"o ( ! mo/ notable 9 ! hi/ory ( pr9t+1 !
 fam\s ,biblia ,regia4 ,?is 0 an edition
 ( ! ,bible 9 f\r anci5t languages1     
,lat91 ,hebrew1 ,greek & ,*aldean4 ,!   
,hebrew type 0 pur*as$ f a ,v5etian     
pr9t]1 :ile ! la/ two 7 ca/ expressly = 
?is book4 ,8 fri5d ayas int]e/$ ,philip 
,,ii 9 ! project & t mon>* s5t ! great  
s*ol> ,arias ,montanus f ,alcala to     
sup]vise ! "w4 ,at ! sugge/ion ( ,c>d9al
 ,granville1 ,syriac 0 add$ to ! o!r    
texts1 s t1 includ+ ,fr5*1 !re 7 six    
languages 9 all4 ,! fir/ volume ( ?is   
,polyglot ,bible1 z x came to be call$1 
appe>$ 9 #aefi & ! eigh? & la/ 9 #aegc4 
,! "w prov$ to be exce$+ly co/ly1 & to  
help meet ! exp5se ! ,k+ ( ,spa9 advanc$
 #ba1bjj flor9s1 & grant$ ,plant9 a     
monopoly = its sale ?r\gh\t ! ,spani%   
dom9ions = ! p]iod ( tw5ty ye>s4 ,a     
simil> monopoly 0 grant$ by ! ,pope1 !  
,emp]or1 ! ,k+ ( ,france & ! ,republic (
 ,v5ice4 ,9 spite ( all ?is1 ! book     

br\ght its pr9t] no pr(its1 b kept him 9
 debt = ! re/ ( 8 life4 ,p5sions promis$
 by ,philip ,,ii to himself & 8         
son-9-law1 ,raphel+51 7 nev] paid4      
,betwe5 ! editor ( ! great ,bible & its 
pr9t] a /rong fri5d%ip sprang up4 ,?is  
man1 wrote ,arias on "o occasion1 is all
 m9d & no matt]4 ,he nei!r eats1 dr9ks1 
nor sleeps4 ,& aga91 ,nev] did ,i "k s  
capable & s k9dhe>t$ a man4 ,e day ,i   
f9d some?+ fre% to admire 9 him1 b :at  
,i admire ! mo/ is 8 humble pati5ce     
t[>ds envi\s colleagues1 :om he insi/s  
on wi%+ well1 ?\gh he might d !m mu*    
h>m4  ,besides ! ,biblia ,regia ,plant91
 n[ at ! height ( 8 fame1 manag$ to turn
 out a va/ quantity ( pr9t$ matt]4 ,high
 9 royal fav\r by reason ( ?is wor?y "w1
 he _h no difficulty 9 obta9+ = himself 
& 8 heirs a pr(itable monopoly = pr9t+ &
 sell+ missals & brevi>ies ?r\gh\t      
,spa9's wide dom9ions4 ,:ile ! l>ge/    
pr9t]s at ,p>is r>ely employ$ m ?an six 
presses1 ,plant9 kept tw5ty-two         
con/antly at "w1 _h ag5ts at ,p>is &    

,leyd51 & s5t a memb] ( 8 family e ye>  
to att5d ! fairs at ,leipzig & ,frank=t4
 ,9 #aege 8 (fice is said to h _h       
sev5ty-?ree k9ds ( type1 weigh+ ov]     
sev5te5 tons4  ,9 #aegj he 0 appo9t$ by 
,philip to ! newly creat$ (fice (       
,prototypograph] 9 ! ,ne!rl&s4 ,ma/]s & 
m5 9 ! pr9t+ trade _h to apply to him = 
c]tificates z to _! fitness1 :ile he 0  
also requir$ to draw up a li/ ( =bidd5  
books4 ,9 ?is1 curi\sly en\gh1 "o ( !   
e>li] products ( 8 own press f\nd a     
place--a rhym+ v]sion ( ! ,psalms 9     
,fr5* by ,clem5t ,m>ot4 ,?is (fice does 
n seem to h paid mu* sal>y1 if any1 or  
to h giv5 its fir/ possessor any?+ b a  
lot ( worry4  ,! ,plant9 ,press 0 locat$
 at v>i\s places ab\t ! city until      
#aegf1 :5 x 0 e/abli%$ on ! rue ,haute  
ne> ! ,porte de ,/4 ,jean4 ,?ree ye>s   
lat] ,plant9 pur*as$ f ! own] ( ?is     
prop]ty ! premises occupi$ by ! pres5t  
museum & ext5d+ f ! rue ,haute ?r\gh to 
! ,friday ,m>ket1 ) a l>ge gateway op5+ 
into ! latt]4 ,plant9 _h be5 only eight 

mon?s 9 ?is new location :5 ! ,spani%   
,fury broke out4 ,he 0 away on a j\rney 
himself1 b 8 son-9-law1 ,moretus1 _h to 
pay a heavy f9e to save ! pr9t+-(fice f 
pillage4 ,! next few ye>s 7 full (      
tr\ble & anxiety4 ,= a "t ,plant9 _h to 
leave ,antw]p1 go+ to ,leyd51 :]e he met
 ,ju/us ,lipsius & 0 made pr9t] to !    
,univ]sity4 ,dur+ ! great siege (       
,antw]p he fl$1 ) _m o!r ,ca?olics1 to  
,cologne1 :]e he ?\ght = a "t ( e/abli%+
 8 *ief pr9t+-(fice4 ,aft] ! siege he   
hurri$ home1 b a %ort "t lat] 8 heal?   
began to fail4  ,illu/ration3 ,,c\rty>d 
,,( ,,! ,,plant9 ,,museum1 ,,antw]p4  ,x
 0 9 ! h\se on ! ,friday ,m>ket t ! dy+ 
pr9t] ga!r$ 8 family ab\t him4 ,8 only  
son _h di$ 9 infancy1 b 8 five daught]s 
_h all liv$ to be m>ri$1 ?ree ( !m to m5
 associat$ ) him 9 ! pr9t+ (fice4 ,!    
elde/1 ,m>g>et1 m>ri$ ,francis          
,raphel+51 ! *ief pro(-read] & an able  
l+ui/2 :ile ! second1 ,m>t9a1 m>ri$     
,jean ,moretus1 ! fa!r ( a long l9e1 (  
:i* ! elde/ sons bore ! same "n s t !y  

came to be di/+ui%$ by numb]s1 ! fir/   
be+ ,jean ,moretus ,i--l a l9e ( k+s4   
,?is son-9-law 0 ,plant9's bus9ess      
manag]4 ,! ?ird daught] aid$ ! "m1 :o   
ran a l95 bus9ess 9 ! frugal way t _m   
,flemi% h\sewives h ( help+ _! husb&s4  
,a f\r?1 ,magdal51 :5 only a *ild1      
correct$ pro(s on ! ,biblia ,regia 9    
five languages1 & lat] m>ri$ h] fa!r's  
,p>is ag5t4 ,! fif? m>ri$ a bro!r (     
,jean ,moretus ,i1 :o became a          
diamond-cutt]4  ,plant9 _h f a v e>ly   
date adopt$ ! motto ,labori et          
,con/antia1 toge!r ) ! emblem ( a h&    
hold+ a pair ( op5 compasses1 :i* may be
 se5 ov] ! ,friday ,m>ket gateway to !  
museum4 ,?is emblem1 ) ! motto entw9+ x 
9 ! =m ( a scroll1 or appe>+ above1 bel[
 or across x 9 a hundr$ v>iations1 is ! 
m>k by :i* connoisseurs c di/+ui% !     
products ( ! ,plant9 ,press4 ,x mu/ h   
be5 con/antly 9 ! m9d ( ! great pr9t]   
himself1 = on 8 dea?b$ he compos$ !     
foll[+ ,fr5* c\plet1 :i* expresses &    
describes 8 own "* bett] ?an any epitaph

 c\ld d3      ,un ,labeur c\rageux muni 
d'humble ,con/ance     ,resi/e  t\s     
assauts p> d\ce ,pati5ce4  ,on ,july #a1
 #aehi1 ?is giant among pr9t]s brea!d 8 
la/1 & 0 buri$ 9 ! ambulatory ( !       
ca!dral1 8 fri5d ,ju/us ,lipsius writ+ !
 inscription = 8 tomb/one4 ,:ile 8 "n is
 n associat$ ) ! e>lie/ beg9n+s ( ! art 
( pr9t+1 & ! products ( 8 press d n     
!re=e comm& ! almo/ fabul\s prices paid 
= ! r>e/ productions ( "s ( ! fir/      
pr9t]s1 ,*ri/oph] ,plant9 0 n only !    
greate/ pr9t] ( 8 age1 b "o ( ! greate/ 
9 ! hi/ory ( ! art4 ,almo/ f ! fir/ he  
knew h[ to ga!r ab\t him ! =emo/ s*ol>s 
& arti/s ( 8 "t1 mak+ 8 e/abli%m5t n    
m]ely a pr9t+-(fice b an in/itution (   
le>n+1 a home ( ! f9e arts4 ,arias      
,montanus1 editor ( ! ,biblia ,regia1   
aid$ by a ho/ ( ! mo/ le>n$ *ur*m5 (    
,europe2 ,ju/us ,lipsius1 lectur] be=e  
,pr9ces at ! ,univ]sities ( ,leyd5 &    
,l\va92 ,m]cator & ,ortelius1 !         
geograph]s1 f :om ! _w le>n$ ! "r way to
 make maps & atlases2 ,crisp91 ,van d5  

,broeck1 ,m>t9 de ,vos1 & a score ( !   
=emo/ ,flemi% arti/s1 :o 7 employ$ by   
,plant9 to illu/rate 8 books2 ^! & _m m 
no d\bt 7 frequ5t visitors at !         
pr9t+-h\se dur+ ! lifetime ( its f\nd]4 
,^! noble traditions 7 fully ma9ta9$ "u 
8 successors4 ,jean ,moretus ,i rul$ ov]
 ! de/9ies ( ! h\se until 8 dea?1 9     
#afaj1 leav+ x to 8 two sons1 ,jean ,,ii
 & ,bal?az> ,i4 ,! latt] 0 ! greate/ ( !
 dyna/y ( pr9t]s aft] ,plant9 & ,jean   
,moretus ,i4 ,he 0 a w>m fri5d ( ,rub5s1
 :o illu/rat$ _m ( ! publications ( !   
h\se dur+ ?is p]iod4 ,9 ! f\r? g5]ation1
 repres5t$ by ,bal?az> ,,iii1 :o rul$ = 
half a c5tury1 f #afdf to #afif1 !      
family 0 ennobl$1 b aft] ?is p]iod !    
h\se conf9$ its output & comm]ce to     
missals & brevi>ies1 "u ! monopoly      
grant$ by ,philip ,,ii = ! c\ntries "u !
 rule ( ,spa94 ,?is bus9ess 0 completely
 de/roy$ by an edict prohibit+ !        
importation ( =eign books into ! ,spani%
 dom9ions1 & 9 #ahjj ! pr9t+ (fice ceas$
 op]ations4 ,x resum$ activity on a     

small scale once or twice dur+ ! n9ete5?
 c5tury1 b f9ally clos$ 9 #ahfg1 aft] an
 exi/5ce ( ?ree hundr$ & twelve ye>s1 & 
9 #ahgf ! la/ repres5tative ( ! h\se1   
,ed\>d ,moretus1 sold ! entire          
e/abli%m5t1 ) all its priceless         
collections & furni%+s1 to ! ,city (    
,antw]p = ! sum ( #a1bjj1jjj francs1 to 
be ma9ta9$ z a museum4  ,dur+ ! spl5did 
p]iod ( activity 9 ! fir/ half ( !      
sev5te5? c5tury1 ! ?rong ( fam\s m5 9 ! 
libr>ies & ! corrector's room ( ! old   
e/abli%m5t surpass$ t ( ! days ( ,plant9
 & ,jean ,moretus ,i4 ,rub5s1 ,van      
,dyck1 ,erasmus ,quell9 & a ho/ ( o!r   
arti/s2 ,lv9ius ,torr5tius1 bi%op &     
poet1 ,kilia51 ! lexicograph]1 & scores 
( o!r le>n$ m52 ,pr9ces & ,dukes        
innum]able1 ! patrons & protectors ( !  
h\se--all ^! & _m m 7 con/ant visitors4 
,to ! /ud5t ! museum ( to-day recalls ^!
 great names ) a fre%ness & vividness t 
! ord9>y museum fatally lacks1 = "h are 
c\ntless mem5toes ( _! pres5ce 9 ! v    
pro(s & pr9ts !y h&l$ & correct$1 9 !   

lett]s !y wrote1 9 ! sket*es drawn by ! 
greate/ arti/s ( ,fl&]s & engrav$ by !  
=emo/ engrav]s ( ! "t4  ,z a detail$    
description ( ! ,plant9 ,museum c be    
f\nd 9 all ! guidebooks1 :ile an        
excell5t h&book reg>d+ its treasures by 
,max ,rooses1 its r5[n$ curator1 c be   
pur*as$ = a franc1 x w\ld be unnecess>y 
z well z t$i\s to rec\nt !m "h4 ,to ^?  
:o h b a little "t at _! disposal a     
lib]al honor>ium to ! att5dant 9 ea*    
room--all ( :om are g>b$ 9 br[n ) a     
qua9t cap ( ! same col\r1 z ! pr9t]s ( !
 h\se 7 wont to be dress$ 9 ! great old5
 days--w br+ =? a weal? ( curi\s &      
int]e/+ in=mation n to be f\nd 9 any    
book1 anecdotes ( di/+ui%$ visitors1    
bits ( lore ab\t ?is or ! o!r treasure1 
t w make ! trifl+ inve/m5t well wor?    
:ile4 ,9 our case we made our fir/ visit
 9 ?is way1 roam+ ab\t ! spl5did old    
rooms & dipp+ into ?is case or t at     
r&om--l butt]flies amid a b[] ( roses4  
,visitors 7 few t day & we _h ea*       
att5dant to ourselves4 ,lat] on we made 

ano!r visit1 arm$ ) lett]s (            
introduction to ,m4 ,d5uc1 ! le>n$      
assi/ant curator1 & ?r\gh 8 c\rtesy     
revisit$ ea* room once m4 ,a s+le       
book--"o ( ! m>vell\s collections ( e>ly
 ,bibles--01 accord+ to ! att5dant 9 t  
room1 made ! object ( an (f] ( a million
 francs1 or maybe x 0 a million doll>s1 
by a well-kn[n ,am]ican millionaire4 ,! 
collection 9 its entirety1 if disp]s$ by
 auction1 w\ld d\btless fet* _m         
millions--b x belongs exactly :]e x is4 
,l ! collection ( ,van ,eycks & ,meml+s 
9 ,bruges1 x w\ld be a _w calamity to   
despoil x or disp]se x4 ,ev5 ! v        
furni%+s ( ! *amb]s up-/airs are        
associat$ ) ! h\se ( ,plant91 7 us$ by !
 family = _m ye>s2 ! pa9t+s t cr[d !    
walls l an art gall]y are = ! mo/ "p by 
,rub5s--portraits ( lead+ memb]s ( !    
family4 ,!n !re are numb]less draw+s1   
pr9ts & engrav+s t repres5t ! "w ( half 
( ! greate/ arti/s ( ! ,flemi% s*ool    
dur+ ! c5tury ( its greate/ spl5d\r--an 
inimitable1 indescribable collection6   

,among o!r pictorial treasures we saw a 
collection ( views ( old ,antw]p t !    
,pr(essor said he w\ld gladly h sp5t a  
mon? 91 if only 8 vacation 7 a little   
long]4 ,!n !re 7 ! books--& aga9 words  
fail to convey an adequate idea ( !     
ri*ness & int]e/ ( ! collection4 ,!re   
are ne>ly a score ( e>ly ,g]man ,bibles1
 includ+ a f9e copy ( ,gut5b]g's ,bible 
lat9e ( #adej2 r>e ,g]man & ,italian    
incunabula1 *oice examples ( ! "w ( !   
e>ly ,flemi% pr9t]s1 includ+ ,les dicts 
moraulx des philosophes1 pr9t$ by ,col>d
 ,manson at ,bruges 9 #adgg4 ,!re are   
examples ( e>ly ,fr5*1 ,dut* & ,italian 
pr9t+2 !re are ,ald9es1 ,e/i5nes1       
,elzevirs2 books f ! fir/ pr9t+ presses 
( ,switz]l&1 ,spa9 & ,portugal4 ,truly !
 hi/orian ( ! e>ly art ( pr9t+ might    
come "h & complete 8 "w )9 ^! *>m$      
walls--he w\ld ne$ no o!r mat]ials6     
,naturally ! collection ( books pr9t$ by
 ! h\se itself is l>ge1 ?\gh n complete1
 & !re are a great _m products ( o!r    
,antw]p presses4 ,mo/ valuable ( all is 

! collection ( manuscripts1 :i* includes
 a huge ,lat9 ,bible complet$ 9 #adjb & 
ornam5t$ ) ! mo/ m>vell\s m9iatures4 ,"h
 are also sev]al sup]b ,books ( ,h\rs & 
_m o!r books ) *oice m9iatures4  ,!     
pr9t+-rooms also des]ve all ! "t ! t\ri/
 c sp>e4 ,! pro(read]s' room is a gem1  
ar*itecturally1 arti/ically1 & f its    
hi/oric associations ) "o ( ! _w's f9e/ 
arts4 ,a few old pro( %eets are /ill ly+
 on ! high desks1 ne> ! /a9$ glass w9d[s
 ) _! t9y panes4 ,! typ]oom has /ill "s 
( ! old fonts ( type & orig9al matrices1
 :ile ! compos+ & pressroom has two     
presses ( ! sixte5? c5tury1 & _m qua9t &
 curi\s devices !n 9 use4 ,all ^! rooms1
 toge!r ) ! l>ge /ate rooms1 :i* conta9 
! manuscripts & *oice/ examples ( e>ly  
pr9t+1 surr\nd a *>m+ c\rty>d :i* is    
/ill kept bright ) fl[]s z x 0 9 ! days 
( ! f\nd]s ( ! great h\se4 ,! ,city (   
,antw]p is ju/ly pr\d ( ?is noble       
monum5t to its great family ( great     
pr9t]s1 :i* s]ves to keep gre5 ! memory 
( _! a*ievem5ts & ( _! f9e arti/ic ta/e 

& skill z no o!r =m ( memorial c\ld d4  
,illu/ration3 ,,anci5t ,,pr9t+ ,,presses
 ,,& ,,compos+ ,,cases1 ,,plant9        
,,museum1 ,,antw]p4     ,,*apt] ,,xx    
,,antw]p ,,f ,,! ,,"t ,,( ,,rub5s ,,till
 ,,to-,,day   ,if !re is "o "n m hon\r$ 
9 ,fl&]s ?an any o!r--m (t5 employ$ z ! 
"n ( hotels1 re/aurants or cafs2 m      
frequ5tly on ! lips ( guides1 c>etak]s &
 sacri/ans2 m con/antly 9 ! m9d ( e     
t\ri/1 be he or %e ,am]ican1 ,engli% or 
,cont95tal--x is ! "n ( ! greate/ (     
,flemi% pa9t]s1 ,pet] ,paul ,rub5s4 ,no 
book on ,fl&]s1 & mo/ assur$ly no "w    
t\*+ on ,antw]p1 w\ld be complete )\t "s
 ref]5ce to ! life & "w ( ?is pr9ce     
among pa9t]s1 yet no task c be m        
sup]flu\s1 s9ce no?+ c be said t w add 9
 ! slighte/ degree to 8 fame4 ,he ranks 
9 ! hi/ory ( art ) ! greate/ ma/]s 9 !  
_w--) ,mi*ael ,angelo1 ,leon>do1        
,rembr&t1 ,raphael1 ,titian &           
,velasquez--& x is probable t m books h 
be5 writt5 ab\t him ?an ab\t ,antw]p    
itself4  ,occasional ref]5ces h be5 made

 9 previ\s *apt]s to notable pa9t+s by  
,rub5s to be se5 9 v>i\s *ur*es ?r\gh\t 
,fl&]s--p>ticul>ly to ,! ,miracul\s     
,draught ( ,fi%es at ,mal9es1 :i* is    
said to h be5 sav$ f ! de/ruction ( t   
city1 hav+ be5 c>ri$ away be=e ! fir/ ( 
its _m bomb>dm5ts4 ,x is at ,antw]p1    
h[ev]1 t ! t\ri/ :o desires to /udy ! "w
 ( ,rub5s w f9d him at 8 be/ & 9 greate/
 pr(usion4 ,& ! mo/ fam\s spot enri*$ by
 8 unrivall$ art is ! ca!dral4 ,"h hang 
8 two greate/ devotional works1 ,!      
,elevation ( ! ,cross & ,! ,desc5t f !  
,cross4 ,! =m] 0 pa9t$ 9 #afaj & gave ! 
"y arti/--he 0 !n only                  
?irty-?ree--in/ant & endur+ fame4 ,!    
companion "w 0 complet$ ! foll[+ ye>4   
,nei!r 0 orig9ally pa9t$ = ! ca!dral4 ,!
 ,elevation ( ! ,cross1 ! e>li] &       
inf]ior ( ! two1 0 int5d$ to be !       
alt>piece = ! *ur* ( ,/e4 ,walburge1    
:ile ! o!r 0 pa9t$ = ! ,society (       
,arquebusi]s1 to adju/ a difficulty t _h
 aris5 ov] apportion+ ! co/ ( a wall    
sep>at+ ,rub5s' h\se f t ( ! guild4     

,bo?1 h[ev]1 are 9 an ideal location :]e
 !y n[ are1 & =m an admirable />t+ po9t 
f :i* to see1 fir/ ! ca!dral1 & !n ! "w 
( ,rub5s z a :ole4  ,illu/ration3 ,,!   
,,desc5t ,,f ,,! ,,cross4--,,rub5s4  ,! 
,ca!dral ( ,notre ,dame is )\t d\bt !   
mo/ beautiful ,go?ic *ur* 9 ,belgium1 & 
has ?us f> happily escap$ ! ravages ( ! 
pres5t w>--pass+ unsca!d ?r\gh ! furi\s 
,g]man bomb>dm5t ( ! city4 ,begun 9     
#aceb x 01 l o!r *ur*es ( its size1     
c5turies 9 rea*+ completion4 ,!         
exquisite lace-"w 9 /one ( ! nor? t[] 0 
complet$ dur+ ! sixte5? c5tury1 b 0 n   
:olly f9i%$ :5 ! iconocla/s ravag$ !    
int]ior ( ! edifice4 ,orig9ally ! *ur* (
 ,/4 ,m>y1 x became ! ,ca!dral ( ,notre 
,dame 9 #aefj4 ,! nave & transepts 7 n  
vault$ until #afaa-af1 or ! v p]iod :5  
,rub5s 0 pa9t+ ! fam\s pictures t n[    
hang 9 ! s\? transept4 ,"w on ! s\? t[] 
0 discont9u$ 9 #adgd1 :i* seems a pity1 
z its completion w\ld h made ! ca!dral  
"o ( ! mo/ p]fect specim5s ( ,go?ic     
ar*itecture 9 ! _w4 ,z x is1 ! s+le t[] 

dom9ates ! old "p ( ! city & is a       
famili> feature ( its sky l9e4 ,! *imes 
( ! ca!dral are fam\s1 & are (t5 play$  
by ,jef ,d5yn ( ,mal9es4 ,!re are =ty   
bells ( v>i\s sizes1 ( :i* ! greate/ 0  
nam$ ,*>les ,v1 & requires ! /r5g? (    
n9ete5 m5 to sw+ x4 ,?is bell 0 f\nd$ "s
 eight ye>s be=e ! "y ,duke ,*>les made 
8 joy\s entry into ,antw]p1 & no d\bt   
rang lu/ily on t occasion4  ,! int]ior (
 ! ca!dral is v va/1 compris+ six       
aisles1 b is too well kn[n to require   
description4 ,among ! num]\s pa9t+s )   
:i* ! *apels are adorn$ is "o1 a ,desc5t
 f ! ,cross1 by ,adam ,van ,noort1 !    
tea*] ( ,jorda5s1 & said to be ! fir/ :o
 taught ,rub5s h[ to h&le a bru%4 ,9 !  
second *apel on ! s\? is an int]e/+     
,resurrection by ,rub5s1 :i* 0 pa9t$ 9  
#afab = ! tomb ( 8 fri5d ,moretus1 ( !  
fam\s pr9t+-h\se ( ,plant94 ,! f\r?     
*apel on ! same side conta9s ! tomb (   
,*ri/oph] ,plant91 ) an inscription by 8
 colleague & fri5d1 ,ju/us ,lipsius1 &  
sev]al family portraits4 ,! visitor w   

f9d _m o!r po9ts ( int]e/ 9 ?is va/     
*ur*1 :i* is a v]itable museum ( art1   
ar*itecture1 hi/ory & human progress4 ,!
 high alt>piece is ano!r fam\s ,rub5s1  
an ,assumption--a subject :i* he pa9t$  
no less ?an t5 times4 ,!re are half a   
doz5 o!r notable pa9t+s by o!r arti/s1 b
 ! majority are ( m9or arti/ic          
importance4 ,! ri* ,go?ic *oir /alls1   
h[ev]1 are wor? m ?an a pass+ glance1 = 
! wood-c>v+s "h are v f9e1 al?\gh       
mod]n--hav+ be5 begun 9 #ahdj1 &        
complet$ =ty ye>s lat]4 ,! elaborately  
c>v$ pulpit 0 made 9 ! eighte5? c5tury  
by ! sculptor ,mi*el ,v]voort1 & 0      
int5d$ = ! ,abbey ( ,/4 ,b]n>d4  ,aft] !
 completion ( ! two great ma/]pieces n[ 
9 ! ca!dral ,rub5s 0 by univ]sal acclaim
 ackn[l$g$ to be ! =emo/ pa9t] 9 ,fl&]s 
& ( 8 "t4 ,8 /udio 0 besieg$ by arti/s  
desir\s ( becom+ ! pupils ( ! brilliant 
ma/]4 ,z e>ly z #afaa he wrote t he _h  
already refus$ m ?an a hundr$           
applicants4 ,9 #afad he pa9t$ ,!        
,conv]sion ( ,/4 ,bavon1 n[ 9 ! ca!dral 

( ,/4 ,bavon at ,gh5t2 9 #afag ,!       
,adoration ( ! ,magi 9 ! *ur* ( ,/4     
,john at ,mal9es1 & ,! ,la/ ,judgm5t1 n[
 9 ! ,p9aco!k ( ,muni*2 9 #afah ,!      
,miracul\s ,draught ( ,fi%es at ,mal9es2
 9 #afai ,! ,la/ ,communion ( ,/4       
,francis1 n[ 9 ! museum at ,antw]p1 &1  
accord+ to ,from5t91 8 greate/          
ma/]piece2 9 #afbj ! ,c\p de ,lance1 n[ 
at ! museum ( ,antw]p1 & 8 f9e/ "w      
accord+ to "s o!r au?orities4 ,9        
#afbb-bc he produc$ ! tw5ty-f\r sup]b   
pa9t+s ( ! ,gal]ie des ,m$icis4 ,! ,lion
 ,hunt1 & ! ,battle ( ! ,amazons1 n[ 9 !
 ,p9aco!k at ,muni*1 belong to ?is      
decade1 toge!r ) ! six pa9t+s ( ! hi/ory
 ( ,decius 9 ! ,lie*t5/e9 ,gall]y1 &    
?irty-n9e pictures = ! *ur* ( !         
,jesuits1 ( :i* all b ?ree 7 de/roy$ at 
! burn+ ( ! *ur* 9 #agah4 ,! ?ree are 9 
! museum ( ,vi5na4  ,illu/ration3 ,,c\p 
,,de ,,lance4--,,rub5s4  ,"h1 9 ! space 
( a little ov] t5 ye>s1 7 ne>ly a hundr$
 ma/]pieces--works ( su* magnitude t two
 or ?ree w\ld h suffic$ to immortalise  

any o!r pa9t]4 ,yet 9 addition to ^!    
lab\rs he design$ = ! tape/ry-work]s (  
,brussels ! life ( ,a*illes 9 eight     
p>ts1 ! hi/ory ( ,con/ant9e 9 twelve1 & 
_m o!r c>toons ( extraord9>y m]it4 ,8   
fri5d1 ,moretus1 9 accordance ) ! high  
traditions ( ! h\se ( ,plant91 came to  
him = designs = _m books1 & he drew     
bord]s1 designs1 title-pages &          
vignettes1 & illu/rat$ himself a book on
 cameos4 ,he ev5 pa9t$ triumphal ar*es &
 c>s = c]emonial processions1 & ^! works
 9 8 h&s acquir$ a p]man5ce ( arti/ic   
value t is 9 itself "o ( ! highe/       
tributes to 8 g5ius4 ,! f9e portraits ( 
,alb]t & ,isabella1 n[ 9 ! museum at    
,brussels1 7 pa9t$ = a triumphal ar* 9 !
 ,place de ,meir--yet !y are ma/]pieces 
( portraiture1 p]fect & spl5did d[n to !
 m9ute/ detail6  ,accord+ to a report   
made 9 #ahgi1 by ! ,commission          
,anv]soise *>ge de runir l'ouevre de    
,rub5s1 en gravures ou en photographies1
 !re are altoge!r no less ?an two ?\s&1 
two hundr$ & ?irty-five pictures &      

sket*es by ?is amaz+ly prolific arti/1 &
 f\r hundr$ & eighty-f\r designs--a     
total ( two ?\s&1 sev5 hundr$ & n9ete5  
kn[n works4 ,at ,antw]p alone !re are   
upw>ds ( "o hundr$ pictures1 ( :i* m ?an
 a score are ma/]pieces ( _w-wide r5[n &
 incalculable value4 ,besides ! great   
trio at ! ca!dral1 & ! family portraits 
9 ! ,plant9 ,museum1 ! museum catalogues
 m ?an ?irty subjects ( :i* ! ,spe>     
,?ru/ 7,c\p de ,lance71 ,adoration ( !  
,magi or ,wise ,m51 ! ,la/ ,communion ( 
,sa9t ,francis1 ! ,*ri/ on ! ,/raw 7 la 
,paille71 ,! ,prodigal ,son1 & ,virg9   
,in/ruct$ by ,sa9t ,anne are among ! m  
notable4 ,bo? "h & at ! ,plant9 ,museum 
! /ud5t ( ,rub5s c f9d _m int]e/+ pr9ts1
 sket*es & m9or examples ( ! great      
ma/]'s "w4 ,at ! museum also is !       
int]e/+ ,holy ,family kn[n z ,la ,vi]ge 
au ,p]roquet 7,virg9 ) ! ,p>rot7 :i* 0  
pres5t$ by ,rub5s to ! ,guild ( ,/4     
,luke :5 he 0 elect$ ,presid5t ( t fam\s
 organisation 9 #afca4 ,ne> ! ,place de 
,meir is ! h\se ( ,rub5s1 l>gely a      

replica ( ! orig9al built 9 ! eighte5?  
c5tury--few ve/iges ( ! build+ 9 :i* !  
great pa9t] held 8 almo/ royal c\rt     
rema9+4 ,x is wor? a visit1 b is f>     
inf]ior to ! ,plant9 ,museum z a        
memorial & 9 ! int]e/ & importance ( its
 cont5ts4  ,illu/ration3 ,,la ,,vi]ge   
,,au ,,p]roquet4--,,rub5s4  ,on 8 dea? 9
 #afdj--tw5ty ye>s too e>ly--! arti/ 0  
buri$ 9 ! *ur* ( ,/4 ,jacques1 an       
edifice rivall+ ! ca!dral 9 size &      
int]e/4 ,x 0 ! burial-place ( _m ( !    
weal?ie/ families 9 ,antw]p4 ,! ,rub5s  
*apel is 9 ! ambulatory1 beh9d ! high   
alt>1 & conta9s a picture ( ! ,holy     
,family :i*1 accord+ to ! critics1 is "o
 ( ! wor/ ( ! arti/'s pictures4 ,sev]al 
( ! faces are ^? ( 8 own family1 :i*    
probably 0 ! reason :y 8 wid[ plac$ x   
"h4  ,besides ! pa9t+s 9 v>i\s *ur*es & 
museums 9 ,fl&]s !re are tw5ty-?ree by  
,rub5s 9 ! museum at ,brussels1         
sev5ty-sev5 9 ! ,p9aco!k at ,muni*1     
n9ety at ,vi5na1 sixty-six at ,madrid1  
fifty-f\r 9 ! ,h]mitage at ,/4          

,pet]sburg & ! same numb] 9 ! ,l\vre at 
,p>is1 sixte5 at ,dresd51 ?irty-"o at   
,london1 :ile a consid]able numb] c be  
se5 9 v>i\s public & private art        
collections 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,he is   
ev]y:]e1 writes ,pr(4 ,waut]s )         
ju/ifiable en?usiasm1 & ev]y:]e         
triumphant4 ,no matt] :at pictures      
surr\nd him1 ! effect is inv>iable2 ^?  
:i* resemble 8 own are eclips$1 ^? t    
w\ld oppose him are sil5c$2 :]ev] he is 
he makes y feel 8 pres5ce1 he /&s alone1
 & at all times occupies ! fir/         
place4444 ,he has pa9t$ ev]y?+--fable1  
my?ology1 hi/ory1 allegory1 portraits1  
animals1 fl[]s1 l&scapes--& always 9 a  
ma/]ly way4444 ,is he p]fect8 ,no "o is4
 ,has he faults8 ,assur$ly4 ,he is      
sometimes reproa*$ ) hav+ nei!r ! outl9e
 ( ,raphael1 ! dep? ( ,leon>do da ,v9ci1
 ! l>g5ess ( ,titian1 ! naturalness (   
,velasquez1 nor ! *i>oscuro ( ,rembr&t4 
,b he has ! outl9e1 ! dep?1 ! l>g5ess1 !
 naturalness & ! *i>oscuro ( ,rub5s2 is 
n t en\gh8  ,to appreciate fully !      

magnitude ( ?is greate/ ( all ,flem+s x 
is necess>y to recall1 = a mom5t1 !     
times 9 :i* he liv$4 ,f\rte5 ye>s aft] !
 capture ( ,antw]p by ! ,pr9ce ( ,p>ma1 
,philip ,,ii det]m9$--:5 on 8 dea?b$--to
 give ! ,spani% ,ne!rl&s p>tial         
indep5d5ce by transf]r+ ! sov]eignty ov]
 ! loyal prov9ces possess$ by ! ,cr[n ( 
,spa9 to 8 daught] ,isabella & h] husb&1
 ! ,ar*duke ,alb]t4 ,! arrival ( !      
,ar*dukes1 z !y 7 call$1 9 #aeii1 0 made
 ! occasion ( a joy\s entry t1 on !     
:ole1 0 ju/ifi$ by _! ,gov]nm5t--:i* 0 a
 great improvem5t ov] any?+ t _h prec$$ 
x s9ce ! days ( ! unspeakable ,alva4 ,to
 be sure1 ! w> ) ! ,/ates ( ,holl& /ill 
dragg$ on1 & ! ,s*eldt 0 clos$4 ,b !    
burgh]s wisely s\ght to replace ! loss (
 _! sea trade by enc\rag+ indu/ries4    
,silk & sat9 manufactures dur+ !        
sev5te5? & eighte5? c5turies gave       
employm5t to upw>ds ( twelve ?\s& h&s1 &
 diamond-cutt+ became an indu/ry ( gr[+ 
importance4 ,:ile ! comm]cial /agnation 
0 sev]ely felt1 ! city did n decl9e l   

,bruges1 b held mu* ( its population &  
recov]$ "s ( its =m] weal?4  ,!         
,ar*dukes1 :o 7 reliev$ ( ! p>alys+     
necessity ( ref]r+ e important act to   
,madrid1 did _! be/ to heal ! t]rible   
w\nds ( ! e>ly ye>s ( ! w> & re/ore "s  
degree ( tranquillity & prosp]ity to _! 
dom9ions4 ,religi\s p]secutions ceas$4  
,eag] to w9 ! love ( _! subjects1 !     
,ar*dukes welcom$ ,rub5s to ,antw]p :5  
he return$ to 8 native city on ! dea? ( 
8 "m 9 #afjh1 & 9 ord] to keep him f    
return+ to ,italy made him _! c\rt pa9t]
 9 #afji4 ,dur+ ! rema9d] ( 8 lifetime  
_! fav\r nev] ceas$1 & on _m occasions  
,rub5s 0 s5t z a special ambassador ( ! 
,gov]nm5t on important diplomatic       
missions4 ,8 c\rtly mann]s & /ately     
appe>ance fav\r$ him1 z well z 8 n[     
trem5d\s arti/ic reputation4 ,he 0      
knight$ by ,*>les ,i1 :ile on a visit to
 ,engl&1 & creat$ a ,ma/] ( ,arts by !  
,univ]sity ( ,cambridge4 ,among 8 fri5ds
 he numb]$--besides 8 royal patrons1    
,moretus1 ! pr9t]1 & ,rockox1 !         

burgoma/]--_m ( ! mo/ fam\s s*ol>s &    
/atesm5 ( 8 "t4 ,he 0 int]e/$ 9         
lit]ature & sci5ce z well z art 9 all   
its bran*es & wrote a va/ numb] ( lett]s
 on an a/\nd+ v>iety ( subjects--"o     
calculation places ! total numb] at     
eight ?\s&6  ,illu/ration3 ,,pet] ,,paul
 ,,rub5s4  ,z if 8 own a*ievem5ts 7 n   
en\gh1 ! g5ius ( ,rub5s 0 ! tor* t set  
aflame a r5aissance ( ,flemi% pa9t+ t   
made ! lat] ,flemi% s*ool1 :i* ju/ly    
be>s 8 "n1 ! pe] ( any 9 ! long hi/ory (
 art4 ,( 8 _m pupils ! greate/ is       
,an?ony ,van ,dyck1 :o 0 born at ,antw]p
 9 #aeii & ent]$ ! /udio ( ! ma/] at !  
age ( fifte54 ,9 ! little *ur* (        
,sav5!m1 n f> f ,brussels1 is ! mo/     
fam\s ( ,van ,dyck's e>ly pa9t+s :i* %[s
 8 precoci\s tal5t4 ,rub5s _h urg$ 8    
promis+ pupil to visit ,italy1 & n only 
gave him a lett] ( introduction b       
provid$ funds = ! long j\rney4 ,! y\?   
set =?1 b 9 a little village on ! way   
!re happ5$ to be a k]messe into !       
m]rim5t ( :i* he ent]$ he>tily4 ,among  

o!rs ) :om he danc$ 0 a beautiful c\ntry
 girl ) :om ! arti/ fell s deeply 9 love
 t he 0 unable to proce$ any fur!r1 b   
devot$ himself = days to c\rt+ h]4      
,mean:ile 8 funds ran out1 & he be?\ght 
himself ) horror1 :5 x 0 too late1 t ?is
 meant ! ab&onm5t ( ! trip to ,italy4 ,9
 8 extremity he appli$ to ! p>i% prie/ &
 (f]$ to pa9t an alt>piece = ! village  
*ur* on v mod]ate t]ms4 ,x is relat$ t !
 prie/ smil$ indulg5tly at ! y\?'s      
pret5sions t he 0 a hi/orical pa9t] &   
put him (f1 say+ t !re 7 no funds4 ,van 
,dyck1 h[ev]1 p]si/$1 & (f]$ to pa9t !  
picture if provid$ only ) ! canvas1 &   
leave ! matt] ( ! price to ! cur's      
lib]ality4  ,^! t]ms c\ld h>dly be      
refus$1 & ! "y arti/ set to "w ) su*    
en]gy t 9 a few weeks ! picture 0 f9i%$4
 ,! prie/ admir$ ! "w greatly1          
p>ticul>ly ! beautiful figure ( !       
,sa9t--! subject select$ hav+ be5 ,sa9t 
,m>t9 divid+ 8 ,cloak among ! ,begg>s--&
 s5t = a connoisseur f ,brussels to     
decide if he %\ld keep ! picture4 ,!    

v]dict 0 fav\rable1 & ! price paid to ! 
arti/ enabl$ him to proce$ on 8 j\rney  
to ,italy4 ,x is n report$ :e!r ! future
 pa9t] ( k+s & c\rti]s ev] return$ to   
visit 8 fair inamorata ( ! k]messe1 b   
?is pretty /ory1 :i* is told 9 a r>e    
little book1 ,sket*es ( ,flemi% ,pa9t]s1
 publi%$ at ,! ,hague 9 #afdb1 0 writt5 
by a contempor>y1 & may q possibly h be5
 true4 ,at any rate1 !re is ! pa9t+     
itself to prove x4  ,on 8 return to     
,antw]p 9 #afbe ,van ,dyck left beh9d   
him 9 ,italy m ?an a hundr$ pa9t+s1 9   
itself a prodigi\s a*ievem5t4 ,he n[    
began to "w 9 8 native city ) a rapidity
 & p]fection resembl+ 8 ma/]'s & produc$
 ! alt>pieces t are among ! ma/] works (
 ,flemi% *ur*es4 ,"h also he pa9t$ a    
m>vell\s galaxy ( portraits ( ! great   
arti/s ( 8 "t & ( ! ,flemi%1 ,fr5* &    
,spani% nobility4 ,8 m>vell\s et*+s also
 belong to ?is p]iod1 s t ,antw]p is    
associat$ ) mu* ( 8 f9e/ "w 9 two great 
bran*es ( art4 ,9 #afcb ! arti/ w5t to  
,london1 :i* he _h visit$ on "o or two  

previ\s occasions1 & became pa9t] to !  
c\rt ( ,*>les ,i4 ,"h he rema9$ = ! re/ 
( 8 lifetime1 pa9t+ m ?an ?ree hundr$ & 
fifty pictures portray+ ! royal family &
 nobility ( ,engl&4 ,he di$ 9 #afda1 or 
only a ye> aft] 8 ma/]1 leav+ a record (
 v>i$ a*ievem5t compris+ m ?an "o ?\s&1 
five hundr$ works4 ,! museum at ,antw]p 
possesses twelve ( 8 pa9t+s1 ( :i* "o ( 
! mo/ int]e/+ is ! ,*ri/ on ! ,cross    
pa9t$ = ! ,dom9ican nuns 9 recognition (
 ! c>e & t5d]ness ) :i* !y _h nurs$ 8   
fa!r dur+ ! old man's la/ illness4 ,!   
catalogue ( ! museum some:at conceals ! 
arti/'s "n "u ! ,flemi% =m1 ,antoon ,van
 ,dijck1 :i* h>dly sugge/s ! brilliant &
 debonnaire ,sir ,an?ony ( ,:itehall & !
 beauties ( ,engl& "u ,*>les ! ,fir/4   
,!re are sixty-sev5 works by ?is ma/] 9 
,vi5na1 =ty-"o at ,muni*1 ?irty-eight at
 ,/4 ,pet]sburg1 tw5ty-f\r at ! ,l\vre1 
tw5ty-"o 9 ,madrid & n9ete5 9 ,dresd51 b
 ,engl& possesses ! l>ge/ collections ( 
8 productions1 mo/ ( ^? he pa9t$ at     
,london /ill rema9+ 9 ! public & private

 gall]ies ( t c\ntry4  ,x w\ld be a     
t$i\s task to rec\nt ! names & works ( !
 ?rong ( less] arti/s :o /udi$ at ! feet
 ( ,rub5s & ,van ,dyck dur+ ! fruitful  
ye>s :5 ^? ma/]s 7 giv+ _! tal5ts to !  
_w ) su* amaz+ prodigality4 ,erasmus    
,quell9 ,i1 ! ,eld]1 0 "o ( ! fir/--a   
sculptor :o f\nd$ a family ( notable    
sculptors & pa9t]s :o liv$ & ga9$ r5[n  
at ,antw]p = m ?an a c5tury4 ,faid'h]be1
 ^: "w ab\nds at ,mal9es1 0 ano!r       
sculptor ( ! highe/ rank :o 0 a direct  
pupil ( ,rub5s2 ,dusquesnoy1 ,grupello &
 ,v]bruggh5 7 r5[n$ sculptors :o ow$ mu*
 to 8 influ5ce4  ,illu/ration3 ,,z ,,!  
,,old ,,birds ,,s+ ,,! ,,"y ,,birds     
,,pipe4--,,jacob ,,jorda5s4  ,aft]      
,rub5s & ,van ,dyck ! greate/ "n 9 !    
,flemi% s*ool ( ?is brilliant p]iod 0 t 
( ,jacob ,jorda5s1 :o le>n$ 8 art "u    
,rub5s' old ma/]1 ,adam ,van ,noort1 &  
m>ri$ 8 tea*]'s beautiful daught]       
,ca!r9e1 :o pos$ = _m ( 8 pictures4 ,!  
num]\s family ga!r+s depict$ by ?is ma/]
 are fam\s1 "o ( ! mo/ *>act]i/ic ( !m  

all be+ ! well-kn[n ,z ! ,old ,birds ,s+
 ! ,"y ,birds ,pipe 9 ! ,antw]p museum4 
,8 satyrs & peasants & rural sc5es are  
among ! f9e/ products ( ! ,flemi% s*ool4
 ,! religi\s pictures ( ,gasp>d de      
,cray] & ,g]>d ,zegh]s1 ! portraits (   
,cornelius de ,vos1 & ! animal pictures 
( ,francis ,snyd]s & ,john ,fyts all    
belong to ?is epo* :5 ,antw]p1 al?\gh   
s9k+ 9 comm]cial & political importance1
 0 mak+ h]self = all "t "o ( ! art      
capitals ( ! _w4  ,9 pictures ( homely  
,flemi% life ,david ,t5i]s1 :o belongs  
to ! next g5]ation ( ,antw]p arti/s1    
a*iev$ a fame t places him 9 a s5se 9 a 
class by himself1 = none ( ! e>li] ma/]s
 surpass$ him 9 8 p>ticul> field4 ,he1  
too1 0 prolific--"o catalogue enum]at+  
no less ?an six hundr$ & eighty-five ( 8
 works4 ,( ! same g5re is ! "w ( ,adrian
 ,brauw]1 ^: e>ly dea? prev5t$ him f    
leav+ s great a legacy to po/]ity4      
,besides ^! ma/]s ( ! fir/ rank1 ,antw]p
 boa/s an almo/ innum]able ?rong ( m9or 
arti/s--pupils ( ,rub5s1 ,van ,dyck & _!

 successors--mu* ( ^: "w is ( excell5t  
m]it4 ,any half-doz5 ( ^! w\ld h r5d]$  
ano!r city notable 9 ! hi/ory ( art1 b  
"h _! a*ievem5ts are lo/ z are ! h]oic  
de$s ( ! private soldi]s 9 a great army4
 ,! m9d _c reta9 s _m names1 _c appraise
 & classify s bewild]+ a mass (         
productions4  ,= ?is reason ! t\ri/ :o  
is a philosoph] w n reg>d too s]i\sly ! 
dicta ( ! le>n$ z to :i* ( ^! less]     
pa9t+s is or is n ( ! fir/ rank 9 ! ord]
 ( m]it4 ,:at ( x if ! guidebook does n 
indicate by its little />s t ?is is a   
picture = "o to g into raptures ov]1 if 
! sacri/an or guide passes x coldly by8 
,if x appeals to u by all means let u   
pause & admire x1 let u /udy x1 f9d out 
ab\t x1 le>n some?+ ( its hi/ory & t ( !
 unkn[n arti/ :o pa9t$ x4 ,inde$1 if on 
su* clos] inspection x /ill appeals to  
u1 let u buy x if we c--b at all ev5ts  
let u enjoy x to ! utmo/1 = ( su* joys  
,fl&]s is full4 ,9 out ( ! way corn]s   
ev]y:]e "o c f9d g5re pictures l ^? (   
,t5i]1 brilliantly col\r$ gr\ps         

sugge/ive ( ,rub5s1 sc5es ( bucolic     
fea/+ 9 imitation ( ,jorda5s4 ,& "h &   
!re1 :o kn[s1 p]haps "o may yet discov] 
an orig9al by "o ( ^! great] arti/s or  
_! r>e pr$ecessors1 & retire on !       
proce$s6 ,:o kn[s8  ,! visitor to !     
,royal ,museum ( ,f9e ,arts at ,antw]p  
%\ld n leave )\t devot+ at lea/ a day to
 ! mod]n pa9t+s4 ,to an ,am]ican1       
accu/om$ to museums :]e long walls fill$
 ) dre>y m$iocrities are illum9at$ only 
at r>e int]vals ) some?+ altoge!r f9e & 
satisfactory1 ^! mod]n gall]ies are a   
treat4 ,picture aft] picture1 room aft] 
room--all are beautiful & wor?y1 _m are 
spl5did4 ,! collection ( mod]n pa9t+s is
 n l>ge z ,european gall]ies g1 "s five 
hundr$ & fifty altoge!r1 b ! g5]al      
av]age ( quality is exceptionally       
high--mu* sup]ior 9 ?is respect x seem$ 
to u ?an ! f> l>g] collection at        
,brussels1 ?\gh x is n s reg>d$ by !    
critics4 ,! int]iors ( ,h5ri de         
,braekele]1 & 8 *>m+ ,nurs]y ,g>d51 =   
example1 :at c\ld be f9]8 ,! ,anci5t    

,fi%m>ket at ,antw]p by ,frans ,bossuet1
 a native ( ,ypres2 ! ,lull be=e !      
,/orm1 by ,p4 ,j4 ,clays1 ( ,bruges1 "o 
( ^: pa9t+s is 9 ! ,metropolitan ,museum
 at ,new ,york--all ^! are notable4 ,s  
are ! hi/orical pictures ( ,b>on ,leys1 
,guff5s1 ,l\is ,gallait & ,*>les        
,v]lat--b ! li/ is too long4 ,^!        
pictures are n to be describ$1 !y mu/ be
 se54 ,individually ! savants may qu>rel
 z to _! m]its1 b1 tak+ !m all toge!r1  
^! pa9t+s--= ! mo/ "p by ,flemi%        
arti/s--prove t ! great traditions (    
,rub5s & ,van ,dyck1 ,jorda5s & ,t5i]s1 
h n be5 =gott5 9 _! native l& & t mod]n 
,flemi% art is a wor?y successor to !   
greatness ( ! pa/4  ,! lov] ( !         
beautiful has yet ano!r treat 9 /ore =  
him :5 he visits ! fam\s old ,hotel de  
,ville4 ,x _h h>dly be5 complet$1 9     
#aefe1 by ,cornelis de ,vri5dt :5 x 0   
p>tially de/roy$ dur+ ! ,spani% ,fury4  
,rebuilt a few ye>s lat] 9 its pres5t   
=m1 x conta9s "s ( ! mo/ beautiful rooms
 to be se5 9 all ,europe4 ,! ve/ibule & 

gr& /aircase are ri*ly decorat$ ) col\r$
 m>ble1 :ile impos+ frescoes depict !   
z5i? ( ,antw]p's comm]cial & arti/ic    
spl5d\r4 ,! great reception-room is     
decorat$ ) f\r sup]b hi/orical frescoes 
by ,b>on ,leys1 :ile ! exquisite ,salle 
des ,m>iages is completely surr\nd$ )   
allegorical pa9t+s portray+ ! hi/ory ( !
 m>riage c]emony by ,lagye1 a pupil (   
,leys4 ,9 ! rooms ( ?is edifice ! hi/ory
 ( ! fam\s old city lives aga91 :ile 9  
its spl5did fireplaces & m9or           
decorations "o c see examples ( e bran* 
( ,flemi% art4  ,illu/ration3 ,,hotel   
,,de ,,ville1 ,,antw]p4  ,:ile ! ,hotel 
de ,ville is mo/ gratify+ to ! eye & !  
imag9ation1 x is n1 h[ev]1 intimately   
associat$ ) _m important ev5ts 9 !      
hi/ory ( ! city4 ,alb]t & ,isabella1    
:ile !y rul$1 7 virtually indep5d5t     
sov]eigns1 b on ! dea? ( ,alb]t )\t     
issue1 9 #afba1 ! c\ntry rev]t$ to      
,spa94 ,!reaft]1 = m ?an two c5turies1 !
 city1 toge!r ) ,fl&]s1 ,brabant & ! o!r
 loyal prov9ces ( ! ,ne!rl&s1 became !  

football ( ,european politics1 &        
,belgium receiv$ its s9i/] "n ( !       
cockpit ( ,europe4 ,! p1 z a :ole1 took 
little int]e/ 9 ! great w>s ( ! ,spani% 
& ( ! ,au/rian ,successions t 7 f\ght   
l>gely to decide :o %\ld rule ov] !m1   
s9ce !re seem$ no likelihood ( _! 9 any 
ev5t ev] be+ able aga9 to rule ov]      
!mselves4 ,m>lbor\gh1 aft] 8 great      
victory at ,ramillies1 occupi$ ! city ) 
,engli% troops 9 #agjf1 & 9 #agae !     
,hotel de ,ville 0 ! sc5e ( ! sign+ ( ! 
treaty t end$ ! w>4 ,by ?is treaty !    
,spani% ,ne!rl&s 7 c$$ to ,au/ria1      
becom+ subject to ! ,emp]or ,*>les ,,vi4
 ,?irty ye>s lat] ! ,fr5* victory at    
,font5oy made !m ma/]s ( ! city1 & ,l\is
 ,,xv _h a joy\s entry ! foll[+ ye>4    
,two ye>s lat]1 9 #agdh1 ! c\ntry 0 h&$ 
back to ,au/ria & ,*>les made a joy\s   
entry 9 turn1 ! p app>5tly welcom+ any  
*ange ( gov]nm5t ) complete imp>tiality4
 ,! ,empress ,m>ia ,!resa 0 popul> 9 h] 
,ne!rl&s dom9ions1 b h] son ,joseph ,,ii
 made ,au/rian rule s odi\s t !re 0 a   

revolt1 & 9 #agij ,antw]p 0 tak5 by !   
patriot army1 to ! imm5se joy ( its     
citiz5s4 ,! ,au/rians soon cru%$ !      
revolution & reoccupi$ ! city1 b ! great
 victory ( ! ,fr5* republicans1 "u      
,dum\riez1 at ,jemappes de/roy$ ! p[] ( 
,au/ria 9 ! ,ne!rl&s1 & 9 #agib ! army (
 ! sans-culottes ent]$ ,antw]p4 ,!      
defeat ( ,dum\riez at ,ne]w9d5 result$ 9
 ! ,imp]ial =ces aga9 occupy+ ! city 9  
#agic1 b ! ,fr5* victory at ,fleurus !  
foll[+ ye> turn$ ! tables aga9 & ,antw]p
 once m became subject to ! republic4   
,all ^! ye>s ! ,s*eldt _h be5 firmly    
clos$1 ,joseph ,,ii hav+ made a feeble  
attempt to free ! riv]1 :i* _h collaps$ 
at ! fir/ %ot f ! ,dut* =ts4 ,9 #agie ! 
free navigation ( ! riv] 0 decre$ by !  
,fr5*1 & a %ip came up & 0 receiv$ 9    
/ate by ! delight$ burgh]s4 ,x is /at$ t
 ! value ( real e/ate 9 ! city increas$ 
t5fold 9 consequ5ce ( ?is decree4 ,on ! 
o!r h&1 ! sans-culottes v ne>ly rivall$ 
! image-break]s 9 ! vig\r ) :i* !y      
de/roy$ ! city's religi\s monum5ts4 ,!  

ca!dral & *ur*es 7 despoil$1 & x 0 ev5  
propos$ to te> d[n ! ca!dral1 because   
7!y said71 x _c be reckon$ a monum5t (  
any value except = ! lead1 iron1 copp] &
 timb] x conta9s4 ,=tunately ,napoleon  
seiz$ ! re9s ( p[] at ,p>is at ab\t ?is 
"t1 & put an end to su* nons5se4 ,9     
#ahjc ! ,fir/ ,consul visit$ ,antw]p1   
:i*--z he aft]w>ds said--0 l a load$    
pi/ol po9t$ at ! he>t ( ,engl&4 ,fill$ )
 ?is idea1 he sy/ematically s\ght to    
revive ! comm]ce ( ! port & erect$ great
 docks !re = 8 w> vessels1 portions (   
:i* /ill rema94 ,9 #ahad1 aft] !        
,emp]or's defeat & abdication1 ,antw]p1 
"u ,g54 ,c>not1 0 ! la/ ,fr5* /ronghold 
9 ! ,ne!rl&s to yield4  ,aft] ! second  
defeat ( ,napoleon at ,wat]loo ,antw]p  
succe$$ 9 recov]+ mo/ ( ! pa9t+s t _h   
be5 c>ri$ away to ,france by !          
republicans 9 #agid4 ,! treaty t foll[$ 
! la/ ,napoleonic w> gave all ( :at is  
at pres5t ,belgium to ! ,k+ ( ,holl&1   
,william ,i1 :o fav\r$ ,antw]p 9 _m     
ways4 ,z ! ,s*eldt /ill rema9$ free !   

comm]ce ( ! port 0 consid]able &        
prosp]ity seem$ to be return+4 ,9 #ahcj 
began ! revolution t result$ 9 !        
indep5d5ce ( ,belgium4 ,"o ( its fir/   
ev5ts 0 ! bomb>dm5t ( ! city ( ,antw]p  
by ! ,dut* troops hold+ ! citadel4 ,!   
foll[+ ye> ,pr9ce ,leopold (            
,saxe-,coburg-,go?a 0 elect$ by !       
,national ,congress z ,k+ ( ! ,belgians 
"u ! title ( ,leopold ,i4 ,! w> ) ,holl&
 0 n yet ov]1 h[ev]1 & 9 #ahcb !        
,engli%1 ,fr5* & ,belgian troops began a
 siege ( ! citadel at ,antw]p1 :i* 0    
/ill 9 ! h&s ( ! ,dut*4 ,! =tress _h "o 
hundr$ & =ty-?ree guns1 & ! besieg]s two
 hundr$ & tw5ty-?ree1 & x is /at$ t     
sixty-?ree ?\s& projectiles 7 fir$ aga9/
 x4 ,! =tress 0 a mass ( ru9s be=e its  
/urdy def5d]s capitulat$4  ,f #ahcb     
until #aiad ,antw]p & ! lib]ty-lov+     
,flem+s ( anci5t ,fl&]s rema9$ free1    
happy & increas+ly prosp]\s "u ! wise & 
mod]ate rule ( _! *os5 ,k+s4 ,leopold ,i
 reign$ until 8 dea? 9 #ahfe1 & prov$ to
 be "o ( ! wise/ mon>*s 9 hi/ory4 ,=    

,antw]p 8 greate/ a*ievem5t 0 ! f9al    
free+ ( ! ,riv] ,s*eldt 9 #ahfc1 aft] m 
?an t5 ye>s ( diplomatic negotiations1 f
 ! tolls :i* ! ,dut* _h insi/$ 9 levy+  
s9ce #ahci4 ,"u 8 successor1 ,leopold   
,,ii1 "o ( ! mo/ effici5t *ief          
executives x 0 possible = a nation to h1
 ! f9e ,belgian public s]vice sy/em 0   
develop$ & ! prosp]ity ( its cities &   
citiz5s promot$ 9 e practical way4 ,9 ! 
two decades foll[+ ! free+ ( ! ,s*eldt !
 comm]ce ( ! port ( ,antw]p increas$    
six-fold1 :ile t ( its rivals1 ,london &
 ,liv]pool1 d\bl$ & t ( ,hamburg &      
,rott]dam tripl$4 ,s9ce !n ! bus9ess ( !
 port has advanc$ ev5 fa/]1 & ! impos+  
mod]n bus9ess build+s t n[ l9e ! ,place 
de ,meir1 "o ( ! h&some/ comm]cial      
/reets 9 ! _w1 af=d abundant te/imony to
 its prosp]ity & weal?--z d ! f9e       
resid5ces ( its m]*ants to be se5 9     
drives ?r\gh ! outskirts ( ! city4 ,"u  
,alb]t ,i ! wise policies ( 8           
pr$ecessors 7 cont9u$1 & ! little c\ntry
 0 enjoy+ peace & cont5tm5t su* z nev]  

came to x dur+ ! c5turies ( =eign       
oppression & tyranny t began ) !        
acquisition ( ,fl&]s & ,brabant by !    
,dukes ( ,burgundy4 ,x is ! greate/     
moral issue 9 ?is w> :e!r ,belgium1 aft]
 be+ free = less ?an eighty-five ye>s1  
%all once m pass into ! h&s ( a =eign   
p[]4 ,its p h demon/rat$ conclusively t 
"u ! limit$ mon>*y !y h *os5 !y are     
capable ( gov]n+ !mselves f> bett] ?an !
 be/ ( _! self-appo9t$ ma/]s ev] did 9 !
 bad old days t1 !y _h hop$1 _h =ev]    
pass$ away4     ,,*apt] ,,xxi  ,,:]e    
,,mod]n ,,fl&]s ,,%9es--,,o/5de ,,& ,,la
 ,,plage   ,our la/ /opp+ place 9 ,fl&]s
 0 ! "o t _m t\ri/s visit fir/1 ! gay   
wat]+ place ( ,o/5de4 ,"h a little fleet
 ( fa/ ,*annel /eam]s convey ! travell] 
to ,dov] 9 f\r or five h\rs1 :ile an    
excell5t s]vice ( ?r\gh express tra9s   
connect ! ,dov] end ( ! wat] r\te )     
,london1 & ! ,o/5de end ) ,brussels1    
,b]l9 & half ! capitals ( ,europe4 ,our 
/ay 9 ,fl&]s1 h[ev]1 0 draw+ to a close1
 & we 7 head$ = ,liv]pool1 :]e ! new    

,aquitania 0 wait+ to be> u home4  ,!   
t\ri/ :o expects 9 ,o/5de to f9d mu* t  
is rem9isc5t ( ! ,fl&]s ( ! sixte5?     
c5tury1 ( :i* s mu* has be5 said 9 ! o!r
 *apt]s ( ?is book1 w be disappo9t$4 ,to
 be sure1 x is n a "y city1 be+ m5tion$ 
9 ! *ronicles ( ,fl&]s z f> back z !    
elev5? c5tury4 ,9 ! ,eighty ,ye>s' ,w>  
betwe5 ,spa9 & h] revolt$ ,dut* colonies
 ,o/5de 0 = a long "t held by ! ,dut*1  
:o beat (f two sev]e attacks by !       
,spani>ds 9 #aehc & #aehf1 ! =m] l$ by !
 all b inv9cible ,f>nese1 ,pr9ce (      
,p>ma4 ,9 ! ye> #afjj ! ,battle ( !     
,dunes took place at ,nieuport1 9 :i* ! 
troops ( ! ,ar*duke ,alb]t 7 defeat$ by 
a ,dut* army "u ,maurice1 ,pr9ce (      
,nassau4 ,?is victory1 :ile x gave great
 enc\ragem5t to ! enemies ( ,spa9 by    
demon/rat+ t ! r5[n$ ,spani% soldi]s 7 n
 inv9cible1 0 o!rwise b>r5 ( results1 & 
9 #afja ! ,ar*dukes det]m9$ to besiege  
,o/5de1 :i* 0 ! la/ /ronghold ( ! ,dut* 
9 ,fl&]s4  ,prior to ! w> ) ,philip ,,ii
 ,o/5de _h be5 little m ?an an obscure  

fi%+-village1 b s9ce x _h be5 =tifi$ by 
! ,dut*1 & _h s successfully ma9ta9$    
itself aga9/ all assaults1 ! place 0 fa/
 becom+ a ?orn 9 ! foot to ! gov]nm5t ( 
! ,ar*dukes4 ,que5 ,elizabe?1 ^: defeats
 ( ,philip's armadas _h made ,engl&     
mi/ress ( ! seas1 0 det]m9$ t ,spa9 %\ld
 n rega9 s important a /rategic base1 & 
_h kept an ,engli% g>rison !re "u an    
,engli% comm&]4 ,s9ce ,alb]t's accession
 ! t[n _h be5 greatly /r5g!n$ by new    
ramp>ts1 ba/ions & =tifications ( e     
type1 !n kn[n 9 ! eng9e]+ art ( w>f>e4  
,to protect ,fl&]s aga9/ ?is ho/ile     
=tress 9 its v mid/ ! ,ar*dukes 7 oblig$
 to erect eighte5 =ts ar\nd ,o/5de &    
keep !m con/antly g>rison$ & suppli$4   
,?is co/ n9ety ?\s& cr[ns a mon? & kept 
! ri* prov9ce 9 a /ate ( p]petual w>4   
,t[ns 9 ! vic9ity 7 compell$ to pay     
tribute 9 ord] to escape pillage1 &     
comm]ce--!n1 z always1 dep5d5t ^u       
peace--langui%$4  ,! ,e/ates ( ,fl&]s "u
 ^! direful conditions (f]$ ! ,ar*dukes 
?ree hundr$ ?\s& flor9s a mon? z long z 

! siege to rid !m ( ?is m5ac+ /ronghold 
might la/1 & ?ree hundr$ ?\s& flor9s    
additional z a bonus to be paid 9       
in/alm5ts--a ?ird :5 ! city 0 inve/$1 a 
?ird :5 a brea* 0 made 9 ! =tifications1
 & ! balance :5 ! place 0 tak54 ,^! t]ms
 are curi\sly simil> to ^? employ$ 9    
draw+ build+ loans at ! pres5t day & %[ 
t ! ,flem+s _h lo/ none ( _! anci5t     
caution4  ,on ,july #e?1 #afja1 !       
,ar*duke ,alb]t arriv$ be=e ,o/5de &    
=mally began its inve/m5t4 ,! ,infanta  
,isabella came ) him1 & (t5 %>$ camp    
life ) h] husb& dur+ ! we>y mon?s t     
foll[$4 ,! siege f ! v fir/ develop$    
into a conte/ ( eng9e]s & milit>y       
/rategi/s on ! tak+ & ! def5ce ( =tifi$ 
places ! l ( :i* _h nev] be=e be5 kn[n 9
 ,europe4 ,9 fact ne>ly all ,europe 0   
directly engag$ 9 ! conflict4 ,on !     
,ar*dukes' side 7 ,spani>ds1 ,italians &
 ,walloons2 on ! ramp>ts ( ! def5d]s 7  
l9$ up side by side ,engli%1 ,dut*1     
,fr5*1 ,g]man & ,scot* =ces4 ,! =tress 0
 comm&$ by ,sir ,francis ,v]e4 ,!       

op]ations ( ! siege consi/$ ( m9+ &     
c\nt]-m9+1 ! erection & de/ruction (    
batt]ies1 /orm+ ( outly+ works--all !   
devices ( attack & def5ce kn[n to !     
milit>y sci5ce ( ! day4 ,nev] be=e _h ! 
_w se5 su* cannons & eng9es (           
de/ruction4 ,! siege became ,hom]ic1    
epic1 a sev5te5?-c5tury ,siege ( ,troy4 
,! great difficulty ( ! besieg]s 0 _!   
inability to cut (f ! t[n f receiv+ new 
provisions & supplies1 & a con/ant /ream
 ( re9=cem5ts1 by sea4 ,! ,dut*1 ,engli%
 & ,fr5* %ips came & w5t almo/ at w4    
,all ! summ] & fall ( #afja ! siege     
dragg$ on1 & ?r\gh ! cold w9t] t foll[$4
 ,9 #afjb ,sir ,francis ,v]e & a l>ge "p
 ( ! g>rison 7 reliev$ & a new comm&] & 
g>rison in/all$ )\t ! ,ar*dukes be+ able
 to prev5t ! manoeuvre4 ,9 #afjc        
,ambrose1 ! ,m>quis ,sp9ola1 a "y scion 
( a ri* ,g5oese family1 (f]$ to take    
*>ge ( ! siege ( ,o/5de & to capture !  
city4 ,z ! ,ar*duke ,alb]t _h made a    
complete failure ( ! job1 & 0 unpopul>  
besides among 8 troops1 :om he _h n be5 

able to pay ) any regul>ity1 he welcom$ 
?is (f] & ,sp9ola assum$ ! comm&4 ,8    
weal? enabl$ him to pay & fe$ 8 soldi]s1
 :ile 8 y\? & ambition made him a w>y & 
en]getic comm&]4 ,day & night he took "p
 9 p]son 9 sup]vis+ ! m9es1 assaults1   
tr5*es & erection ( new positions4      
,gradually1 "u 8 vigor\s lead]%ip1 !    
besieg]s began to burr[ _! way into !   
t[n4 ,maurice ( ,nassau1 unable to pi]ce
 ,sp9ola's network ( entr5*m5ts ar\nd ! 
t[n creat$ a div]sion by besieg+ &      
captur+ ,sluys4 ,9 spite ( ?is1 h[ev]1  
,sp9ola clung dogg$ly to 8 prey & on    
,septemb] #ac?1 #afjc1 ,s& ,hill1 aft] a
 resi/ance ( ?ree ye>s1 0 captur$4 ,sev5
 days lat] ! ,gov]nor1 :o n[ controll$  
no?+ b ! he>t ( ! t[n1 capitulat$ & on  
,septemb] #bbnd1 ! g>rison m>*$ out )   
all ! hon\rs ( w>4 ,h>dly a s\l ( ! =m] 
population ( ,o/5de rema9$ at ! "t ( its
 capture1 & x is said t ! ,ar*du*ess    
,isabella wept at ! sight ( ! m\nd (    
e>?1 all t rema9$ ( ! city :i* %e _h be5
 s anxi\s to capture4 ,x 0 e/imat$ t !  

place1 :i* _h be5 little m ?an a        
village1 co/ ! besieg]s "o hundr$ ?\s&  
lives & ! def5d]s sixty ?\s&4 ,! siege  
_h la/$ ?ree ye>s1 two mon?s & sev5te5  
days1 b ! ?orn _h at la/ be5 extract$4  
,= sev]al ye>s aft] ?is ,o/5de rema9$ a 
city )\t inhabitants1 ! ,ar*dukes       
rebuild+ ! place b population com+ to x 
b sl[ly4 ,9 #agbb ,! ,ea/ & ,we/ ,india 
,company ( ! ,au/rian ,ne!rl&s 0 f\nd$  
at ,o/5de1 *iefly by ,antw]p capitali/s 
& m]*ants1 :o 7 deeply int]e/$ 9 !      
ent]prise4 ,factories 7 e/abli%$ 9      
,india1 b ! ,emp]or ,*>les ,,vi dissolv$
 ! company 9 #agca 9 ord] to secure     
,engli% & ,dut* support = 8 ,pragmatic  
,sanction4 ,! next c5tury 0 "o (        
/agnation1 ! t[n rev]t+ to a fi%+-place1
 b almo/ at ! mom5t ( ,belgian          
indep5d5ce--or f ab\t #ahcj--;x began to
 be r5[n$ z a wat]+-place4 ,x owes mu* (
 its pres5t prosp]ity to ,leopold ,,ii1 
:o made x a place ( royal resid5ce dur+ 
! summ]1 & ^: royal palace /ill looks   
d[n ^u ! ,digue n f> f ! racetrack4 ,!  

com+ ( ! cross-*annel /eam]s /ill fur!r 
/imulat$ its gr[?1 & at pres5t x is "o (
 ! mo/ beautiful & picturesque ( all !  
,flemi% cities4  ,our visit 0           
un=tunate--z we regretfully told "o     
ano!r at ! "t--9 t x came 9 ,july1 be=e 
! season _h really op5$4 ,augu/ is ! "t 
to come1 ! wait]s & hotel port]s all    
assur$ u1 = !n ! ,gr& ,dukes come f     
,russia1 ! long special tra9s f ,g]many 
roll 9 "o aft] ano!r load$ to capacity1 
! ,*annel /eam]s arrive ?ree times a day
 ) decks black ) ,engli% t\ri/s1 &      
,o/5de's _m k9ds ( gaiety are 9 full    
sw+4 ,h[ev]1 ! op5+ ( ! ,augu/ season 9 
#aiad 0 conduct$ "u circum/ances t made 
u r glad we 7 !re 9 ,july4 ,! ,g]mans   
came1 to be sure1 b ! gaiety dep>t$4    
,no "o 9 ,o/5de =esaw a bit ( ! t]rible 
future :5 we 7 !re 9 ,july4 ,! long     
curv+ bea* 0 cr[d$ ) p1 little p = ! mo/
 "p1 & mo/ ( ! que] little              
bea*-h\ses--summ] cottages on :eels--7  
gradually gett+ r5t$4 ,! bea* is        
spl5didly broad & smoo?1 b ! slope      

seaw>d is s slight t at l[ tide "o mu/  
ne$s g v f> out to get into ! wat] at   
all4 ,?is did n seem to tr\ble anybody v
 mu*1 = we saw few :o ev] w5t ne> !     
wat]1 mo/ ( ! pleasure-seek]s /ay+ on ! 
w>m1 dry s& up ne> ! big slop+ sea wall 
( ! ,digue4 ,= families ) small *ildr5 !
 little summ]-h\ses seem$ r attractive1 
z papa & mamma c\ld sit )91 %elt]$ f sun
 or ra91 :ile ! y\ng/]s rollick$ all day
 long 9 ! deep s&4  ,! ,digue j m5tion$ 
is a high artificial seawall or         
embankm5t1 fac$ ) slop+ /one on ! sea   
side & surm\nt$ by a broad b\lev>d--!   
,esplanade4 ,x slopes gradually on !    
l&w>d side1 "o r[ ( /ately hotels &     
lodg+-h\ses fac+ directly on !          
,esplanade1 :ile on ! side /reets !     
build+s drop ea* bel[ ! o!r until !y    
rea* ! level ( ! t[n1 :i* is "s =ty or  
fifty feet l[] ?an ! summit ( !         
embankm5t4 ,"h ! fa%ionable cr[ds       
prom5ade at ! prop] times1 :ile !       
unfa%ionable prom5ade all day long & f> 
into ! night4 ,ev5 9 ,july ! sight is a 

mo/ fasc9at+ "o1 & ! ,bohemianism ( !   
cr[d & its div]sity ( national types mo/
 int]e/+4 ,"h1 z ev]y:]e 9 ,belgium1 !  
cafs & hotels place _! tables & *airs f>
 out into ! roadway1 s t we c sit       
outdoors 9 ! mann] t ! ,madame s mu*    
enjoys & eat our d9n]1 or sip our c(fee 
& cognac1 :ile wat*+ ! ev]-*ang+ cr[ds g
 by4  ,at ,o/5de ! scale ( exp5ses =    
ev]y?+1 rooms1 meals1 s]vice1 pleasure1 
cig>s1 tips1 & ev5 = ! ,engli%          
newspap]s1 increases or falls accord+ to
 ! proximity or remot5ess ( ! ,digue4   
,if y are on top ( x--look out6 ,to     
,am]icans ! *>ges1 ev5 9 ! f9] big      
hotels1 d n seem p>ticul>ly             
excessive--?\gh 9 ,augu/ !y are usually 
mu* high] ?an 9 ,july--b !re is a       
con/ant succession ( incid5tal exp5ses t
 make ! voyag] z a rule hurry m ?an once
 to ! bank] :]e 8 lett] ( cr$it c h     
ano!r illegible notation made on x4     
,ext]nally ! hotels are v impos+ &      
/ately--mak+ a brave %[ z "o looks d[n !
 long l9e t ext5ds = sev]al miles f !   

h>b\r entrance we/w>d to ,we/5de &      
beyond half way to ,nieuport4 ,)9 !y are
 pretty mu* l all ,belgian hotels ( !   
bett] class4 ,= ! novelty ( ! ?+ we     
?\ght ( r5t+ "o ( ! t9y ap>tem5ts       
meubls1 t1 ea* ) a *>m+ broad           
w9d[--usually op5 all day long l a      
piazza--look out directly ^u ! sea4 ,!  
price 0 a ?\s& francs a mon?1 :i* seem$ 
too mu* = :at 0 aft] all little m ?an "o
 big room ) an alcove4 ,! l&lady in=m$ u
 t %e att5d$ to all ! details ( ! mnage1
 cook+ & s]v+ ! meals & provid+ maid    
s]vice1 b t messieurs mu/ provide !     
provisions1 bo? solid & liquid4  ,!     
great %[ place ( ,o/5de is1 ( c\rse1 !  
,kursaal1 a huge /ructure ( glass1 iron 
& /one belong+ to no p>ticul> s*ool (   
ar*itecture1 b 9 ! ma9 mak+ a pleas+    
impression & s]v+ v well inde$ = !      
some:at div]sifi$ uses = :i* x is       
int5d$4 ,9 ! daytime ! ,kursaal is a    
place ( relatively little int]e/1 al?\gh
 well-dress$ p flock ?r\gh x at all     
h\rs4 ,at night x is ! sc5e ( mu*       

animation1 & is1 z x 0 meant to be1 !   
c5tre ( ! gay life ( ! t[n4 ,a l>ge     
or*e/ra gives a conc]t e ev5+ 9 a v     
pretty conc]t hall1 :i*1 :5 we 7 !re1   
conta9$ num]\s little tables =          
refre%m5ts1 al?\gh ,i h se5 pictures 9  
:i* ! room 0 fill$ ) seats 9 solid r[s1 
l a !atre4 ,x 0 mu* m com=table ! way we
 f\nd x1 & ! conc]t 0 v enjoyable4 ,at !
 int]mission1 h[ev]1 we obs]v$ t ne>ly  
ev]ybody rose & flock$ (f into an       
ant]oom lead+ out ( ! conc]t hall4 ,!   
,pr(essor & ,i decid$ t !re appe>$ to be
 some?+ do+ 9 t direction & foll[$ !    
cr[d1 leav+ ! ladies to look aft] our   
wraps1 & promis+ to return & get !m if  
we f\nd any?+ wor? :ile4  ,i fe> t !    
n>rative ( our exp]i5ce may s\nd a bit l
 an extract f ,innoc5ts ,abroad1 b ,i w 
relate ! ?+ z x happ5$ & make no pret5ce
 t we 7 a bit m sophi/icat$ ?an we      
really 74 ,! cr[d seem$ to be head$     
?r\gh a long & h&some corridor t[>d a   
di/ant room4 ,we foll[$ along1 pass+ on 
! way :at look$ m or less l ! (fice ( a 

hotel1 ) a regi/] book & two or ?ree    
cl]ks1 to :i* we paid no att5tion4      
,arriv$ at ! end ( ! corridor we f\nd   
ourselves 9 a l>ge circul> room ar\nd   
:i* 7 a numb] ( small tables on :i*     
visitors 7 roll+ balls d[n t[>d a gr\p (
 pockets--"s su* a game z "o sees at    
,coney ,isl& or any popul> ,am]ican     
amusem5t resort4 ,! price 0 two francs =
 ?ree %ots1 & b>k]s 7 %\t+ lu/ily to all
 com]s to try _! luck4 ,on "o side a    
doorway 0 heavily curta9$ ) velvet      
drap]ies & "h occasional gr\ps ( ! gue/s
 7 sil5tly disappe>+4 ,we approa*$ ?is  
my/]i\s passageway & s\ght to pass l !  
o!rs :5 two t9y lads 9 brilliant liv]y  
dem&$ our c>ds4 ,on our reply+ t we _h  
none1 a l>ge man1 also 9 liv]y1 appe>$ f
 some:]e beh9d ! drap]ies & c\rte\sly   
in=m$ u t special memb]%ip or admission 
c>ds 7 requir$ f all :o wi%$ to proce$  
fur!r4  ,we !reupon return$ to ! ladies 
& report$ :at we _h se51 & took our turn
 at look+ aft] ! wraps :ile !y visit$ ! 
circul> room4 ,!y likewise return$1     

report+ t admission beyond ! curta9s _h 
be5 refus$4 ,aft] ! conc]t 0 ov] we     
decid$ to make ano!r attempt--z bo? !   
,pr(essor & ,i surmis$ :at attraction   
lay beyond ! my/]i\s portal4 ,paus+ at !
 hotel (fice we _h previ\sly notic$1 we 
ask$ bluntly h[ admission to ! hidd5    
room c\ld be secur$1 & 7 told t a c>d   
w\ld be giv5 ea* ( u on ! sole =mality (
 regi/]+4 ,?is we accord+ly did1 giv+   
our names1 hotel address1 home address &
 "o ref]5ce4 ,?is done1 we ea* receiv$ a
 c>d admitt+ two & dep>t$ to f9d !      
,madame & ,mrs4 ,pr(essor4  ,arriv+ at !
 doorway arm$ ) ! c>ds we _h receiv$1 we
 7 u%]$ at once into a v h&some room :]e
 p]haps ?ree hundr$ p 7 ga!r$ ab\t half 
a doz5 r\lette tables4 ,no "o paid !    
slighte/ att5tion to u1 nor did any     
employ appe> to c>e :e!r we play$ or    
cont5t$ ourselves ) m]ely look+ on4     
,practically e "o 9 ! room1 h[ev]1 0    
play+--) all ! t5se e>ne/ness t ?is game
 ( *ance seems to impress ^u its        
devotees4 ,:ite *ips1 we obs]v$1 co/    

five francs1 r$s tw5ty1 r\nd blues a    
hundr$--or tw5ty doll>s4 ,!re 71 9      
addition1 a l>ge oval%ap$ blue1 m>k$    
five hundr$ & an oblong "o m>k$ "o ?\s&4
 ,9 less ?an ?ree m9utes "o play] lo/   
eight ( ! ?\s& franc *ips1 & !n1 ?is be+
 app>5tly en\gh = ! ev5+1 lit a cig> &  
/>t$ = home4 ,:ile he 0 play+ we obs]v$ 
an ov]-pa9t$ "y woman :o _h j lo/ h] la/
 /ake solicit a loan f him4 ,he toss$ ! 
girl a hundr$-franc *ip & left )\t paus+
 to see :e!r %e won or lo/ ) x4 ,we 7 m 
curi\s4 ,%e lo/4  ,illu/ration3 ,,!     
,,salle ,,des ,,jeux ,,9 ,,! ,,kursaal1 
,,o/5de4  ,at ab\t ?is p]iod ( ! ev5+ ! 
,madame rais$ a commotion by discov]+ t 
h] reticule 0 op5 & a piece ( money _h  
fall5 out onto ! ?ick c>pet4 ,!         
,pr(essor & ,i in/antly got d[n to look 
= x1 & ev5 ! cr\pi]s at ! adjo9+ gam+   
table paus$ to take 9 ! incid5t4 ,two or
 ?ree att5dants & wait]s hurri$ up to   
help :5 ! ,madame spi$ h] lo/ co9 &     
triumphantly seiz$ x4 ,x 0 a "o c5time  
piece--wor? a fif? ( a c5t6 ,i h nev]   

se5 a m disgu/$-look+ gr\p ( att5dants1 
& d\bt if s small a co9 _h ev] be5 se5  
be=e 9 ?is nor!rn ,monte ,c>lo4 ,!      
,madame1 h[ev]1 0 s]5ely indiff]5t to _!
 op9ion4 ,?is 0 ! ne>e/1 ,i may add1 t  
we came to los+ any money !re4  ,at !   
end ( ! ,esplanade is ! ,e/acade1 a pi] 
t ext5ds well out to sea4 ,pleasure     
/eam]s />t "h = %ort trips along ! coa/1
 & turn+ to ! "r at ?is end ( ! t[n "o  
comes to ! h>b\r & ! broad bas9 :]e     
hundr$s ( little br[n-sail$ %rimp       
fi%+-boats congregate4 ,sev]al ( ^! came
 9 :ile we 7 !re & sold _! c>goes1 almo/
 z soon z !y 7 ti$ up1 to gr\ps ( eag]  
m>ket-wom5 ) big baskets4 ,sev]al girls 
sat along ! quay wall m5d+ huge nets    
also us$ 9 ! %rimp fi%]y4 ,! little back
 /reets 9 ?is vic9ity1 & ar\nd ! qua9t  
fi%-m>ket1 are ! olde/ 9 ! t[n--& ! mo/ 
crook$4  ,! pr9cipal bus9ess /reet ( !  
little city is ! rue de ,fl&re & its    
cont9uation1 ! rue de la ,*apelle1 :i*  
toge!r take "o f ! ,digue de ,m] /raight
 to ! railway & boat /ations4 ,on "o    

side ( ?is /reet is ! ,place d',armes1  
:]e a milit>y b& play$ e ev5+1 & fac+   
:i* is ! ,hotel de ,ville4 ,our la/ day 
0 sp5t pok+ ab\t ?is "p ( ! t[n 9 a p\r+
 ra91 ) an occasional peep into huge    
cafs design$ to accommodate a ?\s&      
gue/s1 b :i* 7 !n almo/ des]t$4 ,! ra9  
ceas$ sudd5ly t[>d nightfall & we       
return$ to ! ,digue = a f>ewell look at 
! cr[ds & ! long bea*4 ,x 0 night be=e  
we _h se5 en\gh1 & !n1 aft] ord]+ &     
enjoy+ to ! utmo/ our la/ ,flemi% d9n]1 
we made our way to ! ,g>e ,m>itime to   
take ! night boat = ,dov]4 ,z we /eam$  
out pa/ ! long ,e/acade & look$ back ^u 
! gleam+ lights along ! ,digue we saw ! 
moon ris+ r$ly above ! ma/s 9 ! little  
h>b\r4 ,?is 0 our la/ view ( ,fl&]s1 &1 
z we regretfully saw ! lights ( ! city  
s9k out ( sight beh9d ! toss+ waves t   
gleam$ brightly "u ! moonbeams1 we knew 
t our pilgrimage 0 ov]4     ,,*apt]     
,,xxii  ,,! ,,spell ,,( ,,fl&]s   ,9 ?is
 little book ! au?or has endeav\r$ to   
portray z cle>ly z 8 limit$ p[]s (      

expression p]mitt$1 "s ( ! _m elem5ts t 
make ! spell t ,fl&]s lays ^u ! m9ds &  
he>ts ( ^? :o "k x & love x well4 ,x is 
a complex influ5ce1 compos$ ( _m &      
widely div]se factors4 ,if 9 ! n>rative 
a ?read ( hi/ory has be5 p]mitt$ to     
obtrude itself1 sometimes p]haps at     
undue l5g?1 x is because be=e all else  
,fl&]s is a l& ^: int]e/ lies 9 its long
 & romantic hi/ory1 & 9 ! m>vell\s mann]
 9 :i* its arti/s & sculptors h portray$
 its fam\s pa/4 ,z ,mr4 ,griffis 9      
,belgium1 ! ,l& ( ,art1 has well        
express$ x1 ,no o!r l& is ri*] 9 hi/ory 
or m afflu5t 9 art ?an is ,belgium4 ,9  
none h dev\t1 indu/ri\s1 patriotic &    
gift$ sons told _! c\ntry's /ory m      
attractively4 ,by p5 & 9 pr9t1 on       
canvas1 9 mural decoration1 9 sculpture1
 9 monum5ts ( bronze & m>ble1 9         
fireplaces & 9 wood-c>v+1 ! /ory may be 
read z 9 an illum9at$ missal4 ,belfries1
 t[n halls1 *ur*es1 guild h\ses1 h ea* &
 all a *>m ( _! own4 ,if ^! pages h     
caught ev] s little ( t *>m !y h s]v$ _!

 purpose4  ,to ! /ud5t ( hi/ory1 ( art &
 ar*itecture1 ( tape/ry & lace-mak+1 ( !
 orig9 ( ! great wooll5 & l95 indu/ries1
 ( guilds & ! organisation ( lab\r1 ( ! 
commune or municipal republic 9 its     
e>lie/ & f9e/ developm5t1 &--be=e all   
else--( lib]ty 9 its age-long conflict )
 tyranny & oppression1 ,fl&]s is a l& ( 
endless int]e/ & inspiration4 ,n[h]e    
else 9 ! _w c !re be f\nd )9 s small a  
compass s _m monum5ts ( ! pa/1 s _m ( ! 
mile/ones ( human progress4 ,t "s ( ^!  
relate to a pa/ s remote z to be all b  
=gott51 :ile o!rs are hidd5 away 9 spots
 :]e few t\ri/s ev] p5etrate1 only      
enhances ! pleasure ( ^? :o are s       
p]sev]+ or s =tunate z to f9d !m4  ,l   
r>e w9e1 ,fl&]s has mell[$ ) age1 !     
/orms & sun%9e ( succe$+ c5turies t\*+  
its f9e old h\ses1 its noble *ur*es &   
spl5did t[n halls & guild h\ses b       
lightly--imp>t+ ! maje/y ( antiquity )\t
 ! sadness ( decay4 ,its dramatic &     
tragic hi/ory--"s ( :i* 0 s t]rible 9 ! 
mak+--lives aga91 )\t ! old-"t ranc\r & 

hatr$1 z ! f\ndation ^u :i* arti/s )    
*isel1 bru% or p5 h creat$ "s ( ! f9e/ (
 ! _w's ma/]pieces4  ,t to-day ,fl&]s   
has once m1 z s (t5 9 ! pa/1 become !   
battlegr\nd ( w>r+ ,europe gives an     
elem5t ( inexpressible sadness to ^!    
feeble attempts to sket* its glories z  
!y 7 only a few %ort mon?s ago4 ,already
 "s ( ! spl5did monum5ts describ$ 9 ^!  
pages h be5 %att]$ by eng9es ( w> m     
de/ructive ?an all ^? ( all =m] w>s tak5
 toge!r4 ,! noble ,hotel de ,ville at   
,ypres1 ! f9e old *ur* ( ,/4 ,ni*olas at
 ,dixmude1 ! incomp>able ca!dral (      
,mal9es--we "k t ^! at lea/ h suff]$    
fe>fully1 t !y may h be5 injur$ beyond  
any hope ( re/oration4  ,9 ?is la/ sad  
*apt] ( ,flemi% hi/ory1 x is a pleasure 
to be able to record ! fact t ! p ( !   
,unit$ ,/ates h = ! fir/ "t ent]$ its   
pages--& 9 a "w ( m]cy4 ,to ! ,am]ican p
 h be5 giv5 ! opportunity1 ! means & !  
disposition to play a noble "p 9 ?is    
lat] hi/ory ( mu* tr\bl$ ,fl&]s--to fe$ 
! />v+1 c>e = ! wid[$ & orphan$         

non-combatants ( ! great w>1 to help b9d
 up ! nation's w\nds & re/ore hope &    
c\rage to its fe>fully afflict$ p4 ,?is 
is our "p 9 ! hi/ory ( ,fl&]s--our duty 
to ! p ( ! brave nation ( :i* ,fl&]s =ms
 s important & s fam\s a "p4 ,may all ( 
^? on :om ! spell ( ,fl&]s falls d _!   
%>e1 h[ev] small1 to help 9 ?is great "w
 s long z ! ne$ la/s6  ,& :5 ! great w> 
is ov] let no ,am]ican t\ri/ omit ,fl&]s
 f 8 or h] ,european it9]>y4 ,its *ur*es
 & t[n halls1 its qua9t crook$ /reets & 
sixte5?-c5tury h\ses1 h receiv$ a new & 
great] baptism ( fire t has made !m1 "o 
& all1 %r9es to :i* e lov] ( lib]ty %\ld
 make a pilgrimage4 ,ev5 ! pleasant     
,belgian fields1 ) _! bright poppies &  
corn fl[]s1 h a m pr(\nd int]e/ n[ t s  
_m ( !m h be5 /a9$ ) a deep] r$ ?an !   
poppies ev] gave4   ,,! ,,end           
,,bibliography       ,,all51 ,,grant3   
,belgium3 ,its ,cities4      ,,altmey]3 
,des ,causes de la ,dcad5ce du ,comptoir
 hansatique     de ,bruges4             
,,arm/rong1 ,,edw>d3 ,emp]or ,*>les ,v4 

,,balau1 ,s43 ,soixante-dix ,ans        
d',hi/oire contempora9e de ,belgique4   
,,b\lg]1 ,,demetrius ,c43 ,belgian ,life
 9 ,t[n & ,c\ntry4       -- ,belgium ( !
 ,belgians4       -- ,! ,hi/ory (       
,belgium4      ,,bumpus1 ,t4 ,f43       
,ca!drals & ,*ur*es ( ,belgium4         
,,*>riant1 ,h43 ,la ,belgique ,mod]ne4  
,,*ri/yn1 ,j4 ,b43 ,les ,dlices des     
,pays-,bas4      ,,consci5ce1 ,,h5ri 7or
 ,,h5dryk73 ,de ,k]els van ,vla&]5      
7,! ,lion ( ,fl&]s74       -- ,_m ( !   
o!r works ( ?is great ,flemi% au?or h   
be5 translat$ into ,engli%1 ,fr5* or    
,g]man4      ,,conway3 ,e>ly ,flemi%    
,arti/s4      ,,cr[e1 ,,sir ,j4 ,a4 &   
,,cavalcaselle1 ,c4 ,b43 ,! ,e>ly       
,flemi%     ,pa9t]s1 ,notices ( _! lives
 & "w4       ,,de ,,fl\1 ,,*>les3       
,prom5ades dans ,bruges4                
,,delepi]re1 ,,octave3 ,annales de      
,bruges4       -- ,*asse de ,/e4        
,ursule4       -- ,hi/oire de ,*>les le 
,bon4       -- ,hi/oire de ,m>ie de     
,b\rgogne4       -- ,gal]ie des ,arti/es

 ,brugeois4       -- ,old ,fl&]s1 or    
,popul> ,traditions & ,leg5ds (         
,belgium4       -- ,sket* ( ! ,hi/ory ( 
,flemi% ,lit]ature4      ,,de/r,e1 ,j4 &
 ,,van ,,d5 ,,v51 ,p43 ,tapiss]ies des  
,muses     ,royaux du ,c9quant5aire     
,bruxelles4      ,,de/r,e1 ,,oliv]      
,,georges3 ,! ,r5aissance ( ,sculpture 9
     ,belgium4      ,,duclos1 ,,ad43    
,bruges1 ,hi/oire et ,s\v5irs4          
,,edw>ds1 ,,george ,,:>ton3 ,"s ,old    
,flemi% ,t[ns4       ,,fris1 ,,victor3  
,hi/oire de ,g&4      ,,froiss>t1 ,,sir 
,,john3 ,*ronicles ( ,engl&1 ,france1   
,spa9     & ! ,adjo9+ ,c\ntries4        
,,from5t91 ,,eug,,ne3 ,! ,old ,ma/]s (  
,belgium & ,holl&     7,les matres      
d'autrefois74       ,g,,n>d1 ,p43 ,anv]s
  trav]s les ,ages4       -- ,la ,furie 
,espagnole1 9 ,annales de l',acadmie    
d',ar*ologie       d' ,anv]s4           
,,geffroy1 ,,gu/ave3 ,les ,muses        
d',europe3 ,la ,belgique4               
,,gilliat-,,smi?1 ,,erne/3 ,! ,/ory (   
,bruges4      ,,gordon1 ,,pryse ,l43    

,belgium & ,holl&4      ,,griffis1 ,w4  
,e43 ,belgium ! ,l& ( ,art4             
,,hagg>d1 ,a4 ,c4 ,p43 ,l\is ,,xi &     
,*>les ! ,bold4       -- ,two ,great    
,rivals 7,franois ,i & ,*>les ,v74      
,,hav>d1 ,,h5ry3 ,la ,fl&re a vol       
d'oiseau4      ,,holl&1 ,,clive3        
,belgians at ,home4      ,,hymans1      
,,h5ri3 ,anv]s1 9 ,les ,villes d',art   
clbres4       -- ,bruges et ,ypres1 9   
same s]ies4       -- ,g& et ,t\rnai1 9  
same s]ies4       ,,jameson1 ,,mrs4     
,,anna ,,br[nell3 ,sacr$ & ,leg5d>y     
,art4       -- ,leg5ds ( ! ,madonnas4   
-- ,leg5ds ( ! ,mona/ic ,ord]s4         
,,k]vyn ,,de ,,lett5hove3 ,hugu5ots et  
,gueux4       -- ,la ,fl&re p5dant les  
trois d]ni]s ,sicles4      ,,k9ts*ots1  
,l43 ,anv]s et ses ,faub\rgs4           
,,kirk1 ,j4 ,f43 ,hi/ory ( ,*>les !     
,bold1 ,duke ( ,burgundy4               
,,kl+5/e91 ,l43 ,! ,great ,infanta      
,isabel4       ,,mac ,,donnell1 ,,john  
,,de ,,c\rcy3 ,belgium1 h] ,k+s1 ,k+dom 
& ,p4      ,,mi*iels1 ,a43 ,rub5s et    

l'cole d',anv]s4      ,,motley1 ,,john  
,,lo?rop3 ,! ,rise ( ! ,dut* ,republic4 
-- ,hi/ory ( ! ,unit$ ,ne!rl&s4         
,,nam,,*e3 ,hi/oire ,nationale de la    
,belgique4       ,,omond1 ,,george ,w4  
,t43 ,brabant & ,ea/ ,fl&]s4       --   
,belgium4       ,,pir5ne1 ,h43 ,hi/oire 
de la ,belgique4       ,,reiff5burg3    
,mmoire sur le ,comm]ce des ,pays-,bas  
au ,x,ve     et au ,x,v,ie ,sicle4      
-- ,hi/oire de l',ordre de la ,toison   
d',or4      ,,rob]tson1 ,,william3      
,hi/ory ( ! ,reign ( ! ,emp]or1         
,*>les ! ,fif?4      ,,rob9son1         
,,wilfrid ,c43 ,antw]p1 an ,hi/orical   
,sket*4      ,,rooses1 ,,max3 ,art 9    
,fl&]s4       -- ,*ri/ophe ,plant91     
,imprimeur anv]sois4       -- ,catalogue
 du ,muse ,plant9-,moretus4       --    
,ges*i$5is de ,antw]ps*e s*ild]s*ool4   
,,royal ,,academy ,,( ,,belgium3        
,biographie ,nationale4       ,,s*ayes1 
,a4 ,g4 ,b43 ,hi/oire de ,ar*itecture en
 ,belgique4      ,,scott1 ,,sir ,,walt]3
 ,qu5t9 ,durw>d4      ,,scudamore1      

,,cyril3 ,belgium & ! ,belgians4        
,,s+leton1 ,,e/h]3 ,art ( ! ,belgian    
,gall]ies4      ,,skr9e1 ,,francis      
,,h5ry3 ,font5oy & ! ,w> ( ! ,au/rian   
,succession4      ,,smy!1 ,c43 ,! ,/ory 
( ,belgium4      ,,/eph5s1 ,f4 ,g43     
,flemi% ,relics4      ,,/rada1          
,,famiano3 ,de ,bello ,belgico 79 ,fr5*1
 ,hi/oire de     la ,gu]re de ,fl&re74  
,,?orpe1 ,,b5jam93 ,ne!rl&i%            
,traditions1 9 8 ,nor!rn     ,my?ology4 
,,tremayne1 ,,eleanor ,e43 ,! ,fir/     
,gov]ness ( ! ,ne!rl&s1     ,m>g>et (   
,au/ria4       ,,van ,,de ,,vyv]e1      
,,paul3 ,aud5a]de et ses ,monum5ts4     
,,vilbort1 ,,joseph3 ,r5aissance de la  
,littrature flam&e1 les     ,romans non 
traduits de ,h5ri ,consci5ce4           
,,waag53 ,h&book ( ,pa9t+ 9 ! ,g]man1   
,flemi% &     ,dut* ,s*ools4            
,,waut]s1 ,,pr(essor ,a4 ,j43 ,! ,flemi%
 ,s*ool ( ,pa9t+4       ,,zimm]n1 ,h43  
,! ,hansa ,t[ns4     ,,index       ,a   
,a>d5burg1 #ei4      ,adornes1 ,anselm &
 ,john1 ( ,bruges1 #cji4      ,adrian ( 

,utre*t1 #cda4      ,ag9c\rt1 ,battle (1
 #bbj4      ,agrippa1 ,cornelius1 #cda4 
,aire1 seiz$ by ,philip ,augu/us1 #ace4 
,alb]t1 ,ar*duke1 & ,reg5t ( ,spani%    
,ne!rl&s1 defeat$ 9         ,battle ( ! 
,dunes1 #if-ih2       portrait by       
,rub5s1 #dda2       arrival at ,antw]p1 
#ddg2       welcomes ,rub5s1 #ddh2 #deg2
       siege ( ,o/5de1 #dfe-dfi4        
,alb]t ,i1 ,k+ ( ! ,belgians1 makes     
headqu>t]s at ,furnes 9 !         ,great
 ,w>1 #hg2       cont9ues wise policies 
( pr$ecessors1 #dfb2       peace &      
cont5tm5t "u reign (1 #dfb-dfc4         
,al5on1 ,duke (1 #dai4      ,alfr$ !    
,great1 taught by ,judi?1 aft]w>ds      
,c\ntess ( ,fl&]s1         #bf2         
daught] ,alfrida m>ries ,baldw9 ,,ii1   
#bd2 #ahb4      ,alfrida1 daught] (     
,alfr$ ! ,great1 #cd2 #ahb4      ,all51 
,grant1 ,belgium1 its ,cities1 cit$1    
#bce4      ,all[91 aft]w>ds ,/4 ,bavon1 
#aha-ahb4      ,alo/1 seiz$ by ,spani%  
mut9e]s1 #dae4      ,alsace1 revolts    
aga9/ tyranny ( ,*>les ! ,bold1 #bhi4   

,alva1 ,duke (1 recomm5ds de/ruction (  
,gh5t1 #ceb2       made ,reg5t ( ,spani%
 ,ne!rl&s1 #cha2 #chf2       policy a   
failure1 #dad-dae2 #daf2       citadel &
 /atue demoli%$1 #dah-dai2 #ddg4        
,ami5s1 repulses ,*>les ! ,bold1 #bhi2  
#cbf4      ,angelo1 ,mi*ael1 ,virg9 &   
,*ild at ,bruges1 #ea2       comp>$ )   
,rub5s1 #dch4      ,antigonus1 leg5d (1 
#cic-cid4      ,anto+1 village ne>      
,font5oy1 #bec2 #bee-bef4      ,antw]p1 
an exp]i5ce 91 #h-aa2       crippl$ by  
clos+ ( ! ,s*eldt1 #ah-ai2       fir/   
view (1 #bj-ba2 #ga2 #agj2 #bbh2        
,ville d',art1 #bfh2       pa9t+ by ,van
 d] ,weyd5 at1 #bgb2       works by     
,meml+ at1 #bii2       m]*ants leave    
,bruges =1 #cjj2 #cab2       r5[n$ = its
 money1 #cbj2 #cbc2 #cbd2       ,ca!dral
 spire complet$1 #cci-cdj2              
monum5ts classifi$1 #cfc2       leg5d ( 
,antigonus & ,brabo1 #cic-cid2          
,s*eldt displaces ! ,zwyn z a highway ( 
comm]ce1 #cid-cie2       "u ,dukes (    
,brabant1 #cie-cig2       "u ,dukes (   

,burgundy1 #cig-cih2       ,vielle      
,b\*]ie & ,/e51 #cii2       new trade   
r\tes fav\r city1 #cii-dja2       ,qu5t9
 ,matsys1 #dja-djc2       o!r e>ly      
,antw]p pa9t]s1 #djc-dje2       leg5ds (
 ! ,long ,wapp]1 ,kludde1 etc41         
#dje-daj2       prosp]ity "u ,*>les ,v1 
#daa2       outbreak ( ! iconocla/s1    
#dab-dac2       failure ( ! ,duke (     
,alva1 #dad-dae2       ! ,spani% ,fury1 
#dae-dah2       citadel & /atue ( ,alva 
demoli%$1 #dah-dai2       ! ,fr5* ,fury1
 #dai2       ! great siege1 #dai-dbb2   
ru9 result+ f ! ,fury & ! siege1        
#dbb-dbc2       ! great pr9t+ h\se (    
,plant9-,moretus1 #dbc-dcg2       home (
 ,rub5s1 #dch-dci2       ,ca!dral1      
description (1 #dci-ddb2       life &   
a*ievem5ts ( ,rub5s1 #ddb-ddg2          
mild gov]nm5t ( ,ar*dukes1 #ddg-ddh2    
,van ,dyck1 #ddi-deb2       ,quell91    
,jorda5s1 ,david ,t5i]s & less] ,antw]p 
arti/s1         #deb-dee2       ,royal  
,museum ( ,f9e ,arts1 #dee-def2         
,hotel de ,ville1 #def-deg2       lat]  

hi/ory f ! ,ar*dukes to ! ,great ,w>1   
#deg-dfc4      ,ar*]y conte/s 9         
,belgium1 #aje-aaj4      ,ard5nes1 #acj4
      ,ar5burg1 ,duke (1 #baa4          
,arnolf9i1 ,jean1 & wife1 portraits (1  
by ,jean ,van ,eyck1 #cdj4      ,arnulph
 ! ,great1 /r5g!ns ,flemi% cities1 #ce2 
f\nds ,/4 ,donatian's at ,bruges1 #ce4  
,arras1 ,treaty ( #aaia1 #ahi2          
,treaty ( #adce1 #bbb-bbc2       tape/ry
 work]s organis$1 #bcj2       tape/ries 
(1 #bgh-bgi2       />t+ po9t otape/ry   
weav+1 #che4      ,artois1 ,c\nt (1     
besieges ,furnes1 #ij2       leads ,fr5*
 at ,battle ( ! ,spurs1 #aeg2           
dea?1 #aei2 #afj2       ,c\nty ( ,artois
 c$$ to ,france1 #ahi4      ,aud5a]de1  
tape/ries1 #e2       guildsm5 f at      
,battle ( ! ,spurs1 #aeg2 #bjb2         
siege ( by ,philip ,van ,artevelde1     
#bjh2       besieg$ b,philip ! ,bold1   
#bah2       besieg$ by m5 f ,gh5t1 #bbe2
       ,l\is ,,xi drives tape/ry weav]s 
f ,arras to1 #bgh2       tape/ry ateli]s
 specialise 9 pa/oral sc5es1 #bgi2      

c\ntry ar\nd1 describ$1 #cfg-cfh2       
monum5t to volunte]s :o di$ 9 ,mexico1  
#cfi-cgj2       description ( ,hotel de 
,ville1 #cgj-cgf2       bir?place (     
,m>g>et ( ,p>ma1 #cgg2       communal   
museum 9 ,hotel de ,ville1 #cha-chb2    
,clo? ,hall1 #chb-chc2       *ur* ( ,/e4
 ,walburge1 #chc-che2       tape/ry     
weav+ at1 #che-chg2       *ur* ( ,notre 
,dame de ,pamela1 #chg-chi2       ,*teau
 de ,b\rgogne1 #cij2       _m religi\s  
in/itutions (1 #cij2       sieges &     
battles ( ! pa/1 #cia-cib2 #dac4        
,au/ria1 ,w> ( ! ,au/rian ,succession1  
#bej2       ,au/rian troops at ,font5oy1
 #bea2       arms (1 at ,aud5a]de1 #cgc2
       ,fl&]s dur+ ,w>( ! ,au/rian      
,succession1 #deh2       "u ,au/rian    
,empire1 #deh-dei4      ,aux]re1 m>riage
 ( ,baldw9 ,i & ,judi? 9 #hfc1 #bf4     
,b      ,baldw9 ( ,con/ant9ople1 ,c\nt (
 ,fl&]s1 #abi-aci2       pa9t+ (1 at    
,c\rtrai1 #aeb2 #aec2 #afb2 #ahi2 #aig2 
portrait (1 #cgc4      ,baldw9 ( ! ,iron
 ,arm1 fir/ ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 #bf2        

rema9s ( old ,b\rg1 #bg2       traces ( 
*apel1 #bh2 #ee-ef2 #eg2 #bah4          
,baldw9 ,,ii1 m>ries ,alfrida1 #cd2     
=tifies ,flemi% t[ns1 #cd-ce2 #ahb4     
,baldw9 ,v1 ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 t[] (1 at   
,aud5a]de1 #cgf4      ,baldw9 ,,viii1   
signs ,treaty ( ,arras1 #ahi4           
,bas9a1 m>riage to ,*ild]ic at ,t\rnai1 
#bdf-bdg2 #bfe4      ,bas9us1 ,k+ ( !   
,?ur+ians1 #bdf4      ,battle ( !       
,spurs1 #eh2 #aai2       acc\nt (1      
#aef-afj2 #agg2 #aia2       effects (1  
#aib-aic2 #aif2 #bbd2 #cad4             
,baza9e1 ,m>%al ( ,france1 #cgj4        
,beaconsfield1 ,"l1 quot$1 #bea4        
,beaune1 pa9t+ by ,van d] ,weyd5 at1    
#bga4      ,beauvais1 repulses ,*>les ! 
,bold1 #bhi2 #chg4      ,bgu9age1 at    
,bruges1 #cc-cf2       orig9 (          
in/itution1 #cd-ce2       ,gr& ,bgu9age 
at ,gh5t1 #ce2       description (1     
#bji-bac2       ,petit ,bgu9age at      
,gh5t1 #baj2       at ,aud5a]de1 #cij4  
,belfry1 at ,bruges1 built above !      
,bot]beke1 #bg2       hi/ory &          

description (1 #fc-fg2       at         
,c\rtrai1 #adg-adh2       at ,gh5t1     
#ahd2       description (1 #aie-aih2    
at ,t\rnai1 description (1 #bfb-bfc2    
at ,bruges1 complet$ "u ,m>g>et (       
,au/ria1 #cdj4      ,belgian coa/1 #af2 
,belgian b>b]s1 #dd-df2       ,belgian  
,/ate ,railway tra9 s]vice1 #gi-hc2     
,belgian popul> sports1 #aje-aae2       
,belgian ?rift1 #baf-bag2       ,belgian
 ,/ate ,railway1 work+ peoples' tra9s1  
#bdb-bde4      ,bellegambe1 #bgd4       
,b]gues1 canal f ,nieuport to1 #ajd4    
,b]?\t1 ,gau?i]1 ,bi%op ( ,mal9es1 #cab4
      ,b]?\t1 ,jean1 ,bi%op ( ,mal9es1  
#cad4      ,b]tulph1 ,provo/ ( ,/4      
,donatian1 #cg2       execut$ at ,ypres1
 #dj-da4      ,bicycle rac+ 9 ,belgium1 
#aaa-aab4      ,billets d'abonnem5t1 #c2
 #gi2       = work+-p1 #bdb-bdc4        
,biloque 7or ,biloke7 ,hospital at      
,gh5t1 #bji4      ,bladel91 ,pet]1 t[n  
h\se at ,bruges1 #cji2       f\nd] (    
,middleburg1 #cji4      ,blank5b]ghe1 f 
! sea1 #af2       "p ( ! ,franc (       

,bruges1 #ei2 #cbd4      ,blasre1       
,william de1 con/ructs fir/ ho?\se at   
,gh5t1 #cef4      ,blaton1 #cfh4        
,blondeel1 ,lancelot1 #fa4      ,bl*]1  
#cei4      ,bos*1 ,j]ome1 #cda2 #dje4   
,botanical ,g>d5 at ,mal9es1 #caf2      
at ,gh5t1 #cef-ceh4      ,bot]beke      
,riv]1 int]section ) ! ,roya1 #bf2      
subt]ranean *annel (1 #bg4      ,b\lg]1 
,hi/ory ( ,belgium1 quot$1 #bic4        
,b\ts1 ,di]ick1 life & pr9cipal works1  
#cjg-cji2 #cda2 #dja4      ,b\v9es1     
,battle (1 #acf4      ,brabant1 ,du*y (1
 #acg2       unit$ to ,fl&]s by m>riages
 ( ,cambrai1 #bah-bai2       ,philip !  
,good becomes ,duke (1 #bba2       ,duke
 (1 at siege ( ,t\rnai1 #bdi2 #bhf2     
,dukes (1 cont5d ) ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s =    
,mal9es1 #cae2       ,dukes (1 rule ov] 
,antw]p1 #cie-cig4      ,brabo1 leg5d (1
 #cic-cid4      ,braekele]1 ,h5ri de1   
,nurs]y ,g>d5 9 ,antw]p ,museum1 #def4  
,bra9e-le-,comte1 ,flemi% "n =1 #aej4   
,brauw]1 ,adrian1 #ded4      ,breidel1  
,john1 ,dean ( ,but*]s' ,guild at       

,bruges1 #aed2       at ! ,mat9 de      
,bruges #aee-aef2       at ! ,battle (  
,c\rtrai1 #aeg-afj4      ,breughel1     
,pet] ! ,eld]1 pr9cipal works &         
*>act]i/ics1         #djd-dje4          
,brio*es1 #df4      ,britto1 ,jean1     
pr9t] at ,bruges1 #eh4      ,bro$]lam1  
,mel*ior1 e>ly pa9t] ( ,ypres1 #bcj-bca4
      ,broel ,t[]s at ,c\rtrai1 #afd4   
,br\1 9 ,savoy1 #cce-ccf4      ,bruges1 
repels ,philip ! ,good 9 #adcg1 #d2     
murd] ( ,*>les ! ,good1 #d-e & #cf-db2  
lace mak]s at1 #e2       ! fir/ capital 
( ,fl&]s1 #ac2       fir/ visit to1 #bd2
       f\nd+ (1 #bf2       d]ivation (  
"n1 #bf-bg2       ,vieux ,bruges 7old   
,bruges71 #bg-bh2       m t\ri/s ?an    
=m]ly1 #cj2       "s qua9t old /reets1  
#ca2       lacemak]s on rue du ,r\leau1 
#cb2       =tifi$ by ,baldw9 ,,ii1 #cd2 
f ,*>les ! ,good to ,m>ie ( ,burgundy1  
#eb-ec2       *>t] grant$ by ,philip (  
,alsace1 #ee2       description ( ,hotel
 de ,ville1 #eg-ei2       ,belfry &     
*imes1 #fe-fg2       ,halles1           

description (1 #fg-fh2       p]iod (    
greate/ comm]cial activity1 #fh-gj2     
silt+ up ( ! ,zwyn1 #gj-ga2             
,baldw9 ( ,con/ant9ople holds c\rt at1  
#acg2       artisans f ,ypres move to1  
#ade2       revolt aga9/ ! ,fr5*1 #aed2 
visit ( ,k+ ( ,france1 #aee2       !    
,mat9 de ,bruges1 #aee-aef2             
guildsm5 f ,bruges at ,battle ( !       
,spurs1 #aeg2 #aga2       sup]s$$ by    
,gh5t z capital ( ,fl&]s1 #ahi2 #aij2   
#aib2 #aig2       influ5ce ( ,jacques   
,van ,artevelde 91 #bjj2       capital (
 ,l\is ( ,maele1 #bje2 #baj2            
,philip ! ,good e/abli%es ,ord] ( !     
,gold5 ,fleece1 #bba-bbb2       !       
,bruges ,vesp]s1 #bbc-bbd2       !      
,great ,humiliation1 #bbd-bbe2          
,guild (  ,/4 ,luke organis$1 #bbi-bcj2 
,jehan de ,bruges1 #bcj2       ,ville   
d',art1 #bfh2 #bgg2       pr9cipal      
capital ( ,*>le/he ,bold1 #bhg2         
m>riage ( ,maximilian & ,m>ie (         
,burgundy1 #bid2       ,meml+ at        
,bruges1 #bid-bii2       ,ghe]h>dt      

,david1 #bii-cjj2       o!r e>ly ,flemi%
 pa9t]s1 #cjj-cjb2       ! ,gruu?uise   
,palace1 #cjb-cje2       ,ca!dral ( ,/4 
,sauveur1 #cje-cjg2       o!r f9e old   
m$ival build+s1 #cji-caj2 #cab2         
r5[n$ = its pretty girls1 #cba2 #cbc2   
,treaty ( ,cambrai1 #cch-cci2           
,belfry complet$ "u ,m>g>et ( ,au/ria1  
#cdj2 #cdd2       pa9t+s by ,van d]     
,goes1 #cfb2       monum5ts classifi$1  
#cfc2 #cff2 #cic2 #cid2 #cig2 #cih2     
attempt to close ! ,s*eldt1 #cii-djj2   
#dja2 #dcd2 #ddh2 #def4                 
,brunehault1 rival ( ,fr$egonda1        
#bdg-bdh4      ,brussels1 #i2           
relation to ,fl&]s1 #ab-ac2       m     
,fr5* ?an ,flemi%1 #ac2       wea!r at1 
#bb-bc2       passage ?r\gh1 #bd2 #aej2 
#agj2 #bai2       ,hotel de ,ville built
 by ,philip ! ,good1 #bbh2       tape/ry
 work]s organis$1 #bcj2       "p ( !    
,adoration ( ! ,lamb 9 ,museum1 #bch2   
#bdc2       "w ( ,van d] ,weyd5 at1     
#bga2       ,abdication ( ,*>les ,v1 by 
,gallait at1 #bgc2       ,/alla]t's     

,dea? ( ,dido at1 #bgd2       tape/ry   
weav]s ( ,arras driv5 to1 #bgh2         
extorts privileges f ,*>les ! ,bold1    
#bhg2       works by ,meml+ at1 #bii2   
works by ,di]ick ,b\ts at1 #cjh2        
r5[n$ = its noble m51 #cba2 #cbd2 #cci2 
,ca!dral ( ,/e4 ,gudule erect$1 #cdj2   
manuscripts ( ,m>g>et ( ,au/ria 9       
,biblio!que ,royale1 #cdb2       ,m>ie (
 ,hung>y removes capital to1 #cdb2 #cea2
 #cei2       ,madness ( ,hugo ,van d]   
,goes 9 ! ,mod]n ,gall]y1 #cfa2         
portrait ( ,*>les ! ,bold by ,van d]    
,goes1 #cfb2 #cfg2 #cfh2       ,h5ri    
,van ,pde ar*itect ( ,hotel de ,ville1  
#cga2       ,leg5d ( ,/4 ,anne1 by      
,qu5t9 ,matsys1 #djc2 #ddc2 #ddd2       
,mod]n ,gall]y comp>$ ) ,royal ,museum  
at ,antw]p1 #def2 #dfd4      ,burgundy1 
,dukes (1 #d2 #ag2 #agd2       !        
m>riages ( ,cambrai1 #bah-bai2       p[]
 ext5d$ by ,treaty ( ,arras1 #bbb-bbc2  
fur!r ext5d$ at ,pronne1 #bhh2          
defeat$ by ,swiss at ,granson1 ,morat & 
,nancy1 #bij-bib2       ,k+dom (        

,burgundy almo/ e/abli%$1 #bic2 #cae2   
#cea2       e>ly *teau at ,aud5a]de1    
#cij2 #cie2       acquire ,antw]p1 #cih2
       tyranny (1 #dfb4      ,byzant9e  
,emp]ors1 co9s (1 f\nd at ,t\rnai1 #bfe4
       ,c      ,ca51 ,norm&y1 ,plant9   
le>ns art ( pr9t+ 91 #dbc2 #dbd4        
,cs>1 ,julius1 #bde2 #cic4      ,calais1
 siege ( by ,philip ! ,good1 #bbc4      
,calloo1 #cii2 #dbj2 #dba4              
,calv9i/s1 p>tially de/roy ,abbey ( ,/4 
,bavon1 #ahd2       propose to pres5t   
,adoration ( ! ,lamb to ,que5 ,elizabe?1
         #bcg4      ,cambrai1 #fa2      
,m>riages (1 #bah-bai2       ,league (1 
#ccg2       ,treaty (1 #cch-cci2 #cea4  
,camp91 ,rob]t1 e>ly pa9t] ( ,t\rnai1   
#bgj2 #bgc2 #bgd4      ,c>not1 ,g541    
def5ce ( ,antw]p1 #dfj4      ,cassel1   
captur$ by ,philip ,augu/us1 #ace4      
,ca/le ( ! ,c\nts 7,*teau des ,comtes71 
at ,gh5t1 #agj-agi2       /orm$ by      
,jacques ,van ,artevelde1 #bjj2         
bir?place ( ,john ( ,gaunt1 #bja2 #bcc2 
#bfb2       ,liv9 ,pyn tortur$ at1 #cdi4

      ,caxton1 ,william1 le>ns pr9t+ at 
,bruges1 #bbh4      ayas1 ,gabriel de1  
patron ( ,*ri/oph] ,plant91 #dbd2       
int]e/s ,philip ,,ii 9 ,biblia ,regia1  
#dbf4      ,*apel ( ! ,holy ,blood at   
,bruges1 crypt ( ,/4 ,basil1 #bg-bh2    
receives relic f ,di]ick ( ,alsace1     
#ee-ef2       ,procession & ,confr]ie1  
#ef2       ru9$ dur+ ,fr5* ,revolution1 
#ef-eg2       re/oration1 #eg2 #eh4     
,*>lemagne1 break+ up ( empire (1 #bf4  
,*>les ! ,bald1 creates title ( ,c\nt ( 
,fl&]s1 #bf4      ,*>les ! ,bold1 #c2   
tomb at ,bruges1 #ea-ec2       betro?al 
at ,damme1 #ge-gg2 #abd2 #bga2          
meteoric c>e] & dea?1 #bhe-bid2 #bie2   
#cjb2 #cje2 #caj2 #ccc2 #cdd2           
portrait (1 #cfb4      ,*>les ,i1 ,k+ ( 
,engl&1 knights ,rub5s1 #ddh2           
employs ,van ,dyck z c\rt pa9t]1        
#dea-deb4      ,*>les ,v1 ! ,emp]or1    
#eb2 #fb2       /atue at ,c\rtrai1 #aeb2
       de/roys ,abbey ( ,/4 ,bavon1     
#ahc-ahd2       ord]s bell ,rol& remov$1
 #aig2       captures ,t\rnai1 #bdi2    

,abdication (1 pa9t+ by ,l\is ,gallait1 
#bgc2 #bib2       *ri/5$1 #cce2         
educat$ by ,m>g>et ( ,au/ria1 #ccf2     
becomes ,k+ ( ,spa91 #ccg2       elect$ 
,k+ ( ! ,romans1 #cch2       *os5       
,emp]or1 #cch2       rejoic+s at ,gh5t  
ov] bir? (1 #cdf2       va/ ext5t (     
dom9ions at age ( tw5ty1 #cdf-cdg2 #cdh2
       revolt ( ,gh5t 9 #aeci1 #cdi-cej2
       )draws all ! city's anci5t       
privileges1 #cej-cee2       orig9 (     
,but*]s' ,guild ( ,gh5t1 #cfe2          
portrait (1 at ,aud5a]de1 #cgc2       _m
 rem9d]s (1 at ,aud5a]de1 #cgd2         
ins]ts spectacles 9 arms ( ,aud5a]de1   
#cgc2       /atue (1 #cge2              
portrait (1 #cgf2       fa!r ( ,m>g>et (
 ,p>ma1 #cgg-cgh2 #cha2 #cie2       aids
 prosp]ity ( ,antw]p1 #daa2 #dab2       
great bell at ,antw]p nam$ =1 #dda4     
,*>les ! ,good1 murd] (1 #d-e & #cf-db2 
rebuilds ,ca!dral ( ,/4 ,sauveur1 #dg2  
erects "p ( *ur* ( ,notre ,dame1 #ej2   
,bruges 9 ! days (1 #eb-ec2 #ed2 #cje4  
,*>les ,,vi1 ,emp]or ( ,au/ria1 #deh2   

#dfi4      ,*>les ,,vi1 ,k+ ( ,france1  
sacks ,c\rtrai1 #afa-afb2       w9s     
battle ( ,rosbecque1 #bjg2 #bah4        
,*>les ,,vii1 ,k+ ( ,france1 concludes  
,treaty ( ,arras1 #bbb-bbc4      ,*>les 
,,viii1 ,k+ ( ,france1 #ccd4            
,*>olais1 ,c\nt (1 #bcc4                
,*ateaubri&1 m9i/] ( ,l\is ,,xviii1     
#ceh4      ,*ild]ic1 m>riage ) ,bas9a at
 ,t\rnai1 #bdf-bdg2       incid5ts 9    
life (1 c>v$ on portal ( ! ,ca!dral1    
#bfj2       relics (1 discov]$1         
#bfd-bfe2 #bha4      ,*ilp]ic1 ,k+ ( !  
,franks1 #bdg2       besieg$ at ,t\rnai1
 #bdh2 #bha4      ,*imes1 at ,bruges1   
#fe-fg2       at ,mal9es1 #cbb-cbe2     
at ,aud5a]de1 #cha2       at ,antw]p1   
#ddj4      ,*ri/us1 ,petrus1 e>ly pa9t] 
( ,bruges1 #bdj4      ,claire1 ,"l1 at  
,battle ( ,font5oy1 #bed4               
,clauwa]ts1 p>tisans ( ,flemi%          
indep5d5ce1 #aed2       ,jacques ,van   
,artevelde1 lead] (1 #aii4      ,clays1 
,p4 ,j41 #def4      ,clovis1 ,k+ ( !    
,franks1 #bdg4      ,concession ,c>ol9e1

 promulgat$ by ,*>les ,v 9 #aedj1 #cee4 
,columbus1 discov]y ( ,am]ica helps     
,antw]p1 #djj4      ,cond1 defeats ,fr5*
 "u ,tur5ne1 #ie4      ,consci5ce1      
,h5dryk1 ,flemi% noveli/1 #cf4          
,conynck1 ,pet] de1 ,dean ( ,weav]s at  
,bruges1 #aed2       lead] at ! ,mat9 de
 ,bruges1 #aee-aef2       at ,battle (  
,c\rtrai1 #aeg-afj2 #aic4      ,coolman1
 ,gau?i]1 #cai4      ,cornelis1 ,alb]t1 
e>ly pa9t] ( ,bruges1 #cja4      ,corts1
 #cdg4      ,c\nts ( ,fl&]s1 rule ov] "p
 ( ,france1 #ab2       orig9 ( ,c\nty1  
#be2       ! fir/ ,c\nt1 ,baldw9 ( !    
,iron ,arm1 #bf2       model ( fir/     
ca/le1 #bh2       ,emp]or makes title   
h]$it>y1 #cd2 #ed2 #aea2       ca/le (1 
at ,gh5t1 #agj-agi2       fo/] ,abbey ( 
,/4 ,bavon1 #ahb2       make ,gh5t _!   
capital1 #ahi2       decl9e 9 p[] (1    
#aij2       weakness aft] ,battle ( !   
,spurs1 #aib-aic2       obta9 temporal  
p[] ov] ,mal9es1 #cae2 #cea2            
,s*eldt _! fronti]1 #cid-cie4           
,c\rtrai1 l95s1 #e2       =tifi$ by     

,baldw9 ,,ii1 #cd2 #eh2       de/roy$ by
 ,philip ,augu/us1 #acf2       lace     
mak]s at1 #ada2 #adf2       ,belfry1    
#adg-adh2       ,hotel de ,ville1       
#aea-aec2       ,battle ( ,c\rtrai1     
#aeb-afj2       *ur*es (1 #afa-afc2     
,broel t[]s at1 #afd2 #aic2 #cad4       
,coxcie1 ,mi*el1 #bcg2 #bch2 #cci2 #cda2
 #chf4      ,coxyde1 dunes at1 #ib-ic2  
p*eurs de crevettes1 #ic4      ,cray]1  
,gasp>d de1 #chd2       religi\s        
pictures (1 #dec4      ,crcy1 ,battle (1
 #bjc4      ,crisp91 #dca4      ,cr[e & 
,cavalcaselle1 ,! ,e>ly ,flemi% ,pa9t]s1
 cit$1 #bce4      ,cu*es au beurre1     
#df-dg4      ,cumb]l&1 ,duke (1 defeat$ 
at ,font5oy1 #bea-bee4       ,d         
,damme1 receives *>t] f ,philip (       
,alsace1 #ee2       bir? ( ,van ,ma]lant
 7mural pa9t+71 #ei2       p]iod (      
prosp]ity & pres5t aspect1 #gb-ge2      
betro?al ( ,m>g>et ( ,york by ,*>les !  
,bold1 #gf-gg2       de/roy$ by ,philip 
,augu/us1 #ace2       rally+ place =    
,clauwa]ts be=e ! ,mat9 de ,bruges1     

#aee2       de/roy$ by ,philip ! ,bold1 
#bai4      ,danes1 invasions (1 #cd4    
,d>et1 ,jacques1 e>ly pa9t] ( ,t\rnai2  
#bgj2 #bgc4      ,david1 ,ghe]h>dt1 life
 & pr9cipal works1 #bii-cjj4            
,davis1 ,?omas ,osborne1 poet1 ,battle (
 ,font5oy quot$1 #bec-bee4              
,delbeke1 ,l\is1 #abc4      ,del$icque1 
,antony1 #aci4      ,delv91 ,jean1 #ic4 
,d5d]monde 7,t]monde71 #bjb2 #caj4      
,d5uc1 assi/ant curator ( ,plant9       
,museum1 #dcd4      ,d5yn1 ,josef1      
(ficial bell r+] at ,mal9es1 #cbc-cbd2  
#ddj4      ,d5ys1 ,gr>d1 ,dean ( ,weav]s
 at ,gh5t1 #bjd4      ,devreese1        
,godefroid1 sculptor ( ,c\rtrai1 #afe4  
,di]ick ( ,alsace1 ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 #ed2 
wise rule1 #ed-ee2       br+s ,holy     
,blood f ,j]usalem1 #ee-ef2 #ei2 #abi2  
#aga2       besieges anci5t ca/le at    
,gh5t1 #agg2       portrait (1 #cgc4    
,di]ick1 ,"l ( ,dixmude1 leg5d>y h]o1   
#agi4      ,dijon1 capital ( ,burgundy1 
#adh2       pa9t+s by ,mel*ior ,bro$]lam
 at1 #bcj-bca2       ,! ,la/ ,judgm5t by

 ,van d] ,weyd51 at ,beaune1 #bga2 #bhg4
      ,d9ant1 #bgg2 #bhf4      ,dixmude1
 at "t ( ! ,crusades1 #ac2       "p ( ! 
,franc ( ,bruges1 #ei2       hi/ory (1  
#hc2       *ur* ( ,/4 ,ni*olas1 #hd-he2 
gteaux d'ames1 #he2       ravages ( !   
w>1 #hf2       ,ys] ,riv] & canal1      
#ajc-ajd2       *ur* ( ,/4 ,ni*olas     
de/roy$ by ! ,g]mans1 #dhb4      ,dozzo1
 ,gasp>o1 ri* ,antw]p m]*ant1 #daa4     
,dum]y1 ,george1 #fe4      ,du ,guescl91
 #gj4      ,dumuriez1 g5]al ( fir/ ,fr5*
 ,republic1 #dei4      ,dunes1 view$ f !
 sea1 #ae2       at ,coxyde1 #ib-ic2    
,battle ( ! ,dunes1 #if-ih2 #dfe4       
,dunk]que1 receives *>t] f ,philip (    
,alsace1 #ee2       canal f ,nieuport   
to1 #ajd4      ,duquesnoy1 ,j]ome1 #bda2
 #cee2       influ5c$ by ,rub5s1 #dec4  
,dyle1 riv]1 at ,mal9es1 #cab2 #cad2    
views f1 #caf2 #cag2       gr& pont     
across1 #ccc2 #ccd4      ,dyv]1 at      
,bruges1 #bg2       view ( ,notre ,dame 
f1 #ej4       ,e      ,eccloo1 "p ( !   
,franc ( ,bruges1 #ei4      ,edw>d ,i1  

,k+ ( ,engl&1 obta9s ,antw]p z a fief1  
#cig4      ,edw>d ,,iii1 ,k+ ( ,engl&1  
#aih2       treats ) ,jacques ,van      
,artevelde1 #bjj2       w9s ,battle (   
,sluys1 #bja2       welcomes ,flemi%    
weav]s1 #bjd-bje2       besieges        
,t\rnai1 #bdh-bdi2       at ,antw]p1    
#cig4      ,edw>d ,,iv1 ,k+ ( ,engl&1   
gue/ ( ! ,"l ( ,gruu?uise1 #cjc4        
,egmont1 ,c\nt (1 ,la/ ,hon\rs to & ,la/
 ,mom5ts ( by ,l\is         ,gallait1   
#bgc-bgd4      ,eleanor1 ,que5 (        
,france1 #cci4      ,elizabe?1 ,que5 (  
,engl&1 #bcg2       s5ds ,engli% g>rison
 to ,o/5de1 #dfe-dff4      ,ep9oy1      
,*ri/9e1 ,pr9cess (1 h]oic def5ce (     
,t\rnai1 #bdi2       /atue (1 #bfb2     
pa9t+ (1 #bgd4      ,erasmus1 #cda4     
,erembald1 h\se (1 #cg2       murd] (   
,*>les ! ,good1 #ch2       besieg$ 9    
*ur* ( ,/4 ,donatian1 #ci2       flung f
 *ur* t[]1 #da2       h\se ne>ly        
annihilat$1 #db4      ,erembald1        
blacksmi? at ,bruges1 #fe4              
,e!lwolf1 ,k+ ( ,wessex1 #bf4           

,eug5e1 ,pr9ce ( ,savoy1 #cia4          
,ev]>d1 ,ni*olas1 #cda4       ,f        
,faid'h]be1 ,luke1 sculptor ( ,mal9es1  
#cbf2       designs *ur* ( ,notre ,dame 
d',hanswyck1 #cbi2       pupil ( ,rub5s1
 #dec4      ,f>nese1 ,octavio1 ,duke (  
,p>ma1 #cgh4      ,f]d9& ( ,aragon1 #fb4
      ,f]d9&1 ,k+ ( ,bohemia1 #cci4     
,f]d9& ( ,portugal1 ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1     
#abb2 #ace-acf4      ,fr1 ,pi]rot1      
tape/ry mak] ( ,arras1 #bgi4      ,f]r&1
 ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 #aij4      ,fl&]s1     
location (1 #a & #ab-ac2       hi/orical
 int]e/ (1 #c-e2       ,bruges fir/     
capital (1 #ac2       plan (            
*ronological t\r (1 #ad2       climate1 
#bb-bd2       travel h9ts1 #bc2         
orig9 ( ! ,c\nty1 #be2       j misses   
becom+ indep5d5t1 #aib-aic2       !     
cock-pit ( ,europe1 #bej-bea2 #bhf2     
end ( indep5d5ce 9 #aedj1 #cee2         
arms (1 at ,aud5a]de1 #cgc2       !     
,s*eldt its ,ea/]n b\nd>y1 #cid-cie4    
,flemi% ar*itecture1 #c2       art1 #f2 
inns1 #g-aa2       language1 #ab-ac2    

coa/1 #ae-af2       cleanl9ess1 #dc-dd2 
language 9 ,we/ ,fl&]s1 #ii-ajj2        
,belgium bi-l+ual1 #adi-aej2            
,flemi% d9n]s1 #bac-bae4      ,fleurus1 
,battle (1 #dei4      ,floris1          
,corneille1 #bfa4      ,floris1 ,frans1 
#chf2       life & *ief works1 #djc-djd4
      ,fl[]s 9 ,belgium1 #afe-aff2      
fondness ( p =1 #bhd2       ,bi%op      
,trie/ enc\rages horticulture at ,gh5t1 
#cee-cef2       fir/ ho?\se1 #cef2      
,botanical ,g>d5s at ,gh5t1 #ceg-ceh4   
,flu%+1 #ag2 #ccd4      ,font5oy1       
,battle (1 #bej-bee2       battlefield &
 monum5t1 #bef2 #deh4      ,fran*oys1   
,luc1 #cca4      ,francis ,i1 ,k+ (     
,france1 #fb2       loses ,t\rnai1 #bdh2
       concludes ,treaty ( ,cambrai1    
#cch-cci4      ,fr$egonda1 ,que5 ( !    
,franks1 #bdg-bdh4      ,fr$]ick ,,ii1  
,emp]or1 (f]s cr[n to ,*>les ! ,bold1   
#bhe2 #bid2       defeat$ by burgh]s (  
,gh5t1 #cde4      ,froiss>t1 #adh2      
eulogy ( ,gh5t1 #afi2       description 
( ,mad ,m>g]y1 #bjh-bji2       describes

 siege ( ,t\rnai1 #bdi4      ,fugg]1    
,an?ony1 fame ( 8 weal?1 #daa4          
,furnes1 at "t ( ! ,crusades1 #ac2      
receives *>t] f ,philip ( ,alsace1 #ee2 
hi/ory1 #hf-hg2 #ij2       ! ,procession
 (1 #hg-hi2       pr9cipal build+s1     
#ij-ib4      ,fyts1 ,john1 animal       
pictures (1 #dec4       ,g              
,galesw9?a1 si/] ( ,brunehault1 #bdh4   
,gallait1 ,l\is1 ,la/ ,hon\rs to ,c\nts 
,egmont & ,horn1 #bgc2       o!r notable
 works1 #bgc-bgd2       9 ,antw]p       
,museum1 #def4      ,gavre1 ,battle (1  
#bbe-bbg2 #cdd4      ,geefs1 ,w41       
sculptor1 #cfi4      ,george ,,ii1 ,k+ (
 ,engl&1 #bea4      ,g]trude1 ,c\ntess (
 ,fl&]s1 #hg4      ,gh5t1 =tifi$ by     
,baldw9 ,,ii1 #cd2       receives *>t] f
 ,philip ( ,alsace1 #ee2       attack on
 ,nieuport 9 #achc1 #ie2       repuls$  
at ,ypres1 #add2       artisans f ,ypres
 move to1 #ade2       loyal to ,fr5* 9  
#acjb1 #aef2       greatness 9 ! ,middle
 ,ages1 #afi-agj2       ,*teau des      
,comtes1 #agj-agi2       ,abbey ( ,/4   

,bavon1 #aha-ahe2       *teau ( ,gir>d !
 ,devil1 #ahe-ahf2       *ur* ( ,/4     
,ni*olas1 #ahf-ahh2       ca!dral ( ,/4 
,bavon1 #ahh2       rapid gr[? 9 p[]1   
#ahi-aia2       takes popul> side aft]  
,battle ( ! ,spurs1 #aid2       guilds1 
#aid-aie2       ,belfry1 #aie-aih2      
,clo? ,hall 7,halles71 #aig2       !    
,mammelokk]1 #aih2       ,jacques ,van  
,artevelde1 #aii-bjd2       expulsion ( 
weav]s1 #bjd-bje2       ,philip ,van    
,artevelde1 #bjf-bjg2       resi/s      
,philip ! ,bold1 #bah2       rebels     
aga9/ ,philip ! ,good1 #bbe2       cru%$
 at ,gavre1 #bbf-bbg2 #bbh2       ,guild
 ( ,/4 ,luke organis$1 #bbi2 #bcj2 #bcc2
       ! ,adoration ( ! ,lamb1 #bcd-bch2
 #bfb2       ,ville d',art1 #bfh2       
extorts concessions f ,*>les ! ,bold1   
#bhg2       d5\nc$ by ,*>les1 #bhi2     
#cab2       r5[n$ = its halt]s1 #cba2   
,hotel de ,ville complet$1 #cdj2 #cdd2  
! ,rabot1 #cde-cdf2       rejoic+s ov]  
bir? ( ,*>les ,v1 #cdf2       decl9e (  
clo? indu/ry1 #cdg2       ,hotel de     

,ville1 description (1 #cdg-cdi2        
outbreak ( #aeci1 #cdi2       execution 
( ,liv9 ,pyn1 #cej2       ,emp]or )draws
 lib]ties & privileges1 #cej-cee2       
,bi%op ,trie/ & beg9n+s ( horticulture1 
#cee-ceg2       ,botanical ,g>d51       
#ceg-cei2       ,l\is ,,xviii at1       
#ceh-cei2       ,ju/us ( ,gh5t & ,hugo  
,van d] ,goes1 #cfj-cfb2       ,g]>d    
,van d] ,meire1 #cfc2       ranks fir/ 9
 monum5ts1 #cfc2       "s ( its m9or    
monum5ts1 #cfc-cff2       ,m>g>et (     
,p>ma pres5t$ z ,reg5t at1 #cgi2 #cia2  
#cid2 #cig2 #ddb4      ,ghi/elle1 ,lords
 (1 #cji4      ,gilliat-,smi?1 ,erne/1  
,/ory ( ,bruges1 cit$1 #caj4            
,gilliodts1 ar*evi/ ( ,bruges1 quot$1   
#ff-fg4      ,gir>d ! ,devil 7,gir>d le 
,diable71 *teau (1 #ahe-ahf2 #aie2 #aig2
         #bda4      ,godfrey ( ! ,be>d1 
,duke ( ,brabant1 #cie4      ,godfrey ( 
,b\illon1 #ahg4      ,gordon1 ,pryse    
,l41 cit$1 #ahj4      ,gossa]t1 ,jan 7or
 ,mabuse71 pa9t+ by1 at ,t\rnai1 #bgd2  
at c\rt ( ,m>g>et ( ,au/ria1 #cci4      

,granson1 ,battle (1 #bga2 #bij2 #bia2  
#bid4      ,granville1 ,c>d9al1 #dbf4   
,gravel9es1 #ee4      ,griffis1         
,belgium1 ! ,l& ( ,art1 quot$1 #dhj4    
,gro5+he1 ,abbey (1 #aei2       ,flemi% 
"n = ,battle ( ! ,spurs1 #afd4          
,grupello1 sculptor ( ,rub5s s*ool1     
#dec4      ,gruu?uise1 ,l\is 7or        
,lodewyk7 ,van d]1 #cjb2 #cjc4          
,gruu?uise ,palace1 #fh2 #cjb-cje4      
,gryeff1 ,adolphus de1 #chf4            
,gueldre1 ,duke (1 #cac4      ,gueux1   
#cbh2 #cbi4      ,guff5s1 ,godefroid1   
fresco at ,ypres1 #abd2       at        
,c\rtrai1 #aeb4      ,guido ,gezelle1   
poet1 #afc4      ,guilds1 at ,bruges1   
#fd & #gj2       ! #djj guilds ( ,ypres1
 #abh2       guild lead]s 9 #acjb1 #aed2
       at ,battle ( ,c\rtrai1 #aeg2     
p[] (1 #aib-aic2       guild h\ses 9    
#ad? c5tury1 #aid-aie2       slaught] ( 
! full]s1 #bjb2       slaught] ( !      
weav]s1 #bjd2       expulsion ( weav]s1 
#bjd-bje2       at ,mal9es1 #cac-cae2   
h\se ( ,boatm5's ,guild at ,gh5t1 #cdg2 

f9e guild h\ses ( ,gh5t1 #cfe2          
orig9 ( ,but*]s' ,guild1 #cfe4          
,guizot1 m9i/] ( ,l\is ,,xviii1 #ceh4   
,guy ( ,dampi]re1 ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 #abb2 
#aec-aed2       grants ,gh5t a new      
,keure1 #aia4      ,guy ( ,namur1 #aic4 
,h      ,ha*ette1 ,jeanne1 h]o9e (      
,beauvais1 #bhi4      ,hacket1 ,*tela9 (
 ,bruges1 #cg2 #db4      ,ha9aut1 ,c\nty
 (1 #acj2       unit$ to ,fl&]s by      
m>riages ( ,cambrai1 #bah-bai2          
,philip ! ,good becomes ,c\nt (1 #bba2  
#bdc2       ,c\nt (1 at siege ( ,t\rnai1
 #bdi4      ,hal1 baptismal font at1    
#bgg4      ,hanseatic ,league1 #eh2     
at ,bruges1 #fi2       ab&ons ,bruges = 
,antw]p1 #ga2 #dja4      ,hay1 ,"l1 at  
,battle ( ,font5oy1 #bed4      ,hmony1  
,pi]re1 #cbc4      ,h5nebicq1 pa9t] (   
,t\rnai1 #bgd4      ,h5nequ91 pa9t] (   
,t\rnai1 #bgd4      ,h5ry ,,iii1 ,duke (
 ,brabant1 grants privileges to ,antw]p1
 #cif4      ,h5ry ,v1 ,k+ ( ,engl&1 w9s 
,battle ( ,ag9c\rt1 #bbj4      ,h5ry    
,,viii1 captures ,t\rnai1 #bdi2         

t[] (1 #bff-bfg4      ,h]k5bald1 ,ju/ice
 (1 pa9t+ by ,van d] ,weyd51 #bga4      
,heuvick1 e>ly pa9t] ( ,aud5a]de1 #chb4 
,hey/1 #af2 #cbd4      ,hironimites1    
#ahf4      ,horemb\t1 ,g]>d1 #cda4      
,horn1 ,c\nt (1 ,la/ ,honors to1 #bgc2  
#dab4      ,hugonet1 m9i/] ( ,m>ie (    
,burgundy1 #cdi4      ,humb]c\rt1 m9i/] 
( ,m>ie ( ,burgundy1 #cdi4      ,hundr$ 
,ye>s' ,w>1 #gj2 #adc2 #aih4       ,i   
,iconocla/s 7or ,image ,break]s71 at    
,mal9es1 #cbh2 #cbi2 #cgj2              
outbreak (1 #chj-cha2       at          
,aud5a]de1 #chi2       at ,antw]p1      
#dab-dac2 #ddj4      ,innoc5t ,,viii1   
#cje-cjf4      ,inquisition1 meet+-place
 at ,furnes1 #ia2 #dae4      ,isabella (
 ,ca/ile1 #fb4      ,isabel1 ,que5 (    
,d5m>k1 #cci4      ,isabella1 ,que5 (   
,france1 #aee4      ,isabella1 ,reg5t ( 
! ,ne!rl&s1 #dbb2       portrait by     
,rub5s1 #ddd2       arrival at ,antw]p1 
#ddg2       enc\rages ,rub5s1 #ddh2     
#deg2       at siege ( ,o/5de1 #dfg2    
weeps at ru9 ( ! t[n1 #dfi4      ,isabel

 ( ,portugal1 m>ries ,philip ! ,good1   
#bba2       portrait (1 #bch2           
picture (1 9 collection ( ,m>g>et (     
,au/ria1 #cdj-cda4       ,j             
,jacquel9e1 ,c\ntess ( ,ha9aut & ,holl&1
 #agf-agg2       =c$ to abdicate1 #bba4 
,jans5ius1 ,bi%op ( ,/4 ,m>t9 at ,ypres1
 #abe-abf4      ,janss5s1 ,victor1 #chf4
      ,jean ,,ii1 ,duke ( ,brabant1     
#cad4      ,jeanne d',arc1 #bba4        
,jeanne ( ,con/ant9ople1 ,c\ntess (     
,fl&]s1 #abb2 #acb2 #ace2               
#acf-aci2       f\nds fir/ ,bgu9age at  
,gh5t1 #baj4      ,jehan de ,bruges1    
e>ly pa9t]1 #bcj4      ,jehan de        
,hasselt1 e>ly pa9t]1 #bcj4             
,jemappes1 ,battle (1 #dei4      ,joanna
 ( ,spa9 7,jeanne de ,ca/ile71 #fb2     
#cdf4      ,john1 ,pr9ce ( ,a/urias1    
#ccd-cce2       sudd5 dea?1 #cce4       
,john1 ,don1 ( ,au/ria1 ,reg5t ( !      
,ne!rl&s1 #dae2 #dah4      ,john (      
,bav>ia1 #bcd4      ,john ,i1 ,duke (   
,brabant1 grants ! ,core van ,antw]p51  
#cif4      ,john ,,ii1 ,duke ( ,brabant1

 gives ,antw]p to ,edw>d ,i1 #cig4      
,john ,,iii1 ,duke ( ,brabant1 ext5ds   
rights ( =eign]s at ,antw]p1            
#cif-cig4      ,john ! ,fe>less1 ,duke (
 ,burgundy1 #bbj2       c\rt pa9t] (1   
#bca2 #bcc2 #chc4      ,john ( ,gaunt   
7,gh5t71 ,duke ( ,lanca/]1 bir? (1 #bja2
 #bba4      ,john1 ,k+ ( ,engl&1        
alliance ) ,f]d9& ( ,portugal1 #acf4    
,jorda5s1 ,jacob1 ,adoration ( ! ,magi  
at ,dixmude1 #hd2       *>act]i/ics1    
#dec2 #dee2 #def4      ,joseph ,,ii1    
,emp]or ( ,au/ria1 #bcg2       revolt   
aga9/1 #deh-dei4      ,joseph9e1        
,empress ( ,france1 saves ,botanical    
,g>d5 at ,gh5t1         #ceg-ceh4       
,judi?1 fir/ ,c\ntess ( ,fl&]s1 #bf2    
traces ( h] *apel1 #bh2 #cd4      ,ju/us
 ( ,gh5t1 e>ly ,flemi% pa9t]1 #cfj-cfb4 
,ju/us ,lipsius1 meets ,*ri/oph]        
,plant91 #dbi2       writes 8 epitaph1  
#dcj2 #dca2 #dda4       ,k              
,kab\t]mannek5s1 leg5ds (1 #djh-dji4    
,k>ls1 refuse allegiance to feudal      
ov]lords1 #cg2       support !          

,erembalds1 #ch2       receive          
,keurbrief f ,philip ( ,alsace1 #fj-fa4 
,ka!r9e1 ,que5 ( ,portugal1 #cci4       
,keld]mans1 ,&r1 ,anto9e ,i1 ,anto9e    
,,ii1 ,jean1 ,laur5t & ,ma?ieu1         
all ar*itects ( ,mal9es1 #cai-cbj4      
,keld]mans1 ,rombaut1 ar*itect (        
,mal9es1 #cah2 #cbj2       rebuilds     
,hotel de ,savoy1 #ccf2       receives  
_m commissions f ,m>g>et ( ,au/ria1     
#cci-cdj2       designs ,maison de la   
,keure at ,gh5t1 #cdh4      ,k]el van   
,yp]1 pa9t] ( ,ypres1 #ada4             
,k]messe1 its antiquity1 #aae2 #cgh2    
#ddi4      ,keys]1 ,nicaise de1 #afj4   
,kilia51 ! ,flemi% lexicograph]1 #dcc4  
,kipl+1 quot$1 #bi4      ,kludde1 leg5ds
 (1 #dji-daj4      ,knocke1 #af4        
,l      ,lac d',am\r1 ,bruges1 see      
,m9newat]4      ,laev9ius ,torr5tius1   
#dcc4      ,lagye1 ,victor1 #deg4       
,lala+1 ,c\ntess (1 #cgg2 #cgh4         
,lala+1 ,philippe1 ,c\nt (1 #cga4       
,lannoy1 ,*>les de1 #fb4      ,l>ks 9   
,belgium1 #aff-afh4      ,leg5d (       

,baldw9 ( ,con/ant9ople1 #acj-acc2      
( siege ( ,gh5t 9 #icj1 #agi-ahj2       
( ,/4 ,ni*olas1 #ahg2       ( !         
,mammelokk]1 #aih2       conc]n+ ! weal?
 ( ! ,flemi% burgh]s1 #bjg-bjh2       ( 
! m>riage ( ,*ild]ic & ,bas9a1 #bdf-bdg2
       ( ,meml+'s w\nd at ,nancy1       
#bie-bif2       ( ! ,vuyle ,bruydegom at
 ,mal9es1 #ccb-ccc2       ( ,antigonus &
 ,brabo at ,antw]p1 #cic-cid2       (   
,loh5gr91 #cid2       ( ,qu5t9 ,matsys1 
#dja-djb2       ( ! ,long ,wapp] (      
,antw]p1 #dje-djh2       ( !            
,kab\t]mannek5s1 #djh-dji2       (      
,kludde1 #dji-daj2       ( ,van ,dyck at
 ,sav5!m1 #ddi-dea4      ,lemaire des   
,belges1 ,jean1 #cda4      ,leopold ,i1 
,k+ ( ! ,belgians1       fir/ welcom$ to
 ,belgium at ,furnes1 #hg2       elect$ 
,k+1 #dfa2       frees ! ,s*eldt 9      
#ahfc1 #dfa4      ,leopold ,,ii1 ,k+ ( !
 ,belgians1       an effici5t *ief      
executive1 #dfa-dfb2       ,palace at   
,o/5de1 #dgj4      ,leys1 ,b>on ,h5ri1  
#def2       pa9t+s 9 ,hotel de ,ville at

 ,antw]p1 #deg4      ,li$]ick de ,buck1 
portrait (1 #cgc4      ,li$ts1 ,b>oness1
 lace collection at ,bruges1 #cjd4      
,lige1 #ajf2 #bhf2       insurrections  
at1 #bhg-bhh2       city sack$1 #bhh2   
#cab2 #cdd4      ,lieve1 riv]1 at ,gh5t1
 #afi2 #agb4      ,lilia]ts1 p>tisans ( 
,france1 #aed2 #ahi2 #aia2 #aid4        
,lille1 de/roy$ by ,philip ,augu/us1    
#acf2       ,baldw9 ( ,con/ant9ople     
execut$ at1 #ach-aci2 #bjg2       ftes  
held by ,philip ! ,good at1 #bbg2 #bhj4 
,lissweghe1 #ei4      ,lomb>tzyde1 #ie2 
/atue ( ! ,virg91 #ajd-aje4             
,longfell[1 quot$1 #fg4      ,long      
,wapp] ( ,antw]p1 leg5ds (1 #dje-djh4   
,l\is ( ,maele1 ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 #ei2    
#age2       besieg$ at ,gh5t1 #agh2     
#ahc2 #bjd2       m>riage ( daught]1    
#bje-bjf2       defeat$ by ,philip ,van 
,artevelde1 #bjf2       dea?1 #bjg2     
weal? ( ,gh5t dur+ reign (1 #bjg-bjh2   
#bah2       c\rt pa9t] (1 #bcj2 #cig4   
,l\is ( ,nev]s1 ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 #abd2   
#aid2 #aih2       va9ly resi/s popul>   

p>ty1 #aii-bjj2       hires assass9ation
 ( ,jacques ,van ,artevelde1 #bjb-bjc2  
dea? at ,crcy1 #bjc4      ,l\is ! ,fat1 
,k+ ( ,france1 #da-db4      ,l\is ,,xi1 
,k+ ( ,france1 lives at ,furnes :ile    
,dauph91 #ij2       drives tape/ry      
weav]s f ,arras1 #bgh2       implacable 
foe ( ,*>les ! ,bold1 #bhf2       fom5ts
 insurrection at ,lige1 #bhg-bhh2       
/irs up ,g]man resi/ance to ,*>les1     
#bhi2       causes d[nfall ( ,*>les1    
#bic2 #bid2 #ccd2 #cdd4      ,l\is      
,,xiii1 ,k+ ( ,france1 #chg4      ,l\is 
,,xiv1 captures ,t\rnai1 #bej2 #bfe2    
removes tape/ries f ,aud5a]de1 #cgf2    
portrait (1 #cgf2 #chg2       bomb>ds   
,aud5a]de1 #cia4      ,l\is ,,xv1 ,k+ ( 
,france1 at ,battle ( ,font5oy1         
#bea-bee2       ,joy\s ,entry at        
,antw]p1 #deh4      ,l\is ,,xviii1 ,k+ (
 ,france1 at ,gh5t1 #ceh-cei4           
,l\ise ( ,savoy1 #cch4      ,l\va91     
#bai2       ,hotel de ,ville1 #bbh2     
,guild ( ,/4 ,luke organis$1 #bcj2      
"w ( ,van d] ,weyd5 at1 #bga2           

,di]ick ,b\ts at1 #cjg-cjh2 #caj2       
r5[n$ = its s*ol>s1 #cba2 #cga2 #cie2   
bir?-place ( ,qu5t9 ,matsys1 #dja2 #djc4
      ,lyon1 ,jean1 ,dean ( ,boatm5's   
,guild1 #ahh4      ,lys1 riv]1 #adf2    
sup]ior = rett+ flax1 #adg2 #aeh2 #afd2 
#afi2 #bjd2 #bjf4       ,m      ,mabuse1
 see ,jan ,gossa]t4      ,mace1 ,rob]t1 
tea*es art ( pr9t+ to ,*ri/oph] ,plant91
 #dbc4      ,maele1 ,*teau (1 ne>       
,bruges1 #cjc4      ,mahaut1 ,c\ntess ( 
,fl&]s1 #abb4      ,malfait ( ,brussels1
 #abd4      ,mal9es1 lace mak]s at1 #e2 
c5tre ( ,flemi% ar*itecture1 art &      
le>n+1 #ab2       ,ville d',art1 #bfh2  
extorts privileges f ,*>les ! ,bold1    
#bhg2       t]rible de/ruction 9 !      
,great ,w>1 #caa2       situation &     
importance1 #cab2       e>ly hi/ory1    
#cab-cae2       ,clo? ,hall & museum1   
#cag2 #cah2       ,ca!dral ( ,/4        
,rombaut1 #cah-cbc2       *imes1        
#cbc-cbe2       int]ior ( ,ca!dral1     
#cbe-cbg2       r5[n$ = its fools1 #cba2
       ,notre ,dame au del de la ,dyle1 

#cbg-cbh2       ,notre ,dame            
d',hanswyck1 #cbh-cbi2       *ur* ( ,/4 
,jean1 #ccj-cca2       ,hotel de ,ville1
 #ccb2       ,vieux ,palais1 #ccb-ccc2  
"s f9e old h\ses1 #ccc2       ,m>g>et ( 
,au/ria1 e>ly life1 #ccc-ccf2       h]  
c\rt at ,mal9es1 #ccf2 #cdb2            
dea?1#cdb-cdc2       monum5ts classifi$1
 #cfc2 #dci2 #ddb2       ,ca!dral sadly 
injur$1 #dhb4      ,mammelokk]1 bas     
relief & leg5d (1 #aih4      ,manson1   
,coll>d1 pr9t] at ,bruges1 #bbh2 #dce4  
,m>g>et ( ,au/ria1 ,reg5t ( ! ,ne!rl&s1 
#fa-fb2       *ildhood & e>ly life1     
#ccc-ccf2       ,palace at ,mal9es1     
#ccf2       ,reg5t ( ! ,ne!rl&s1 #ccg2  
negotiates ! ,ladies' ,peace1 #cch-cci2 
brilliant c\rt1 #cci2       ta/e = art &
 lit]ature1 #cdj-cdb2       untimely    
dea?1 #cdb-cdc2 #cde2 #cdi4             
,m>g>et1 ,c\ntess ( ,fl&]s1 #abb2 #acb2 
#ace2 #acf2 #aec4      ,m>g>et1 daught] 
( ,l\is ( ,maele1 #ahc2 #bje-bjf2 #bah4 
,m>g>et ( ,p>ma1 portrait at ,aud5a]de1 
#cgf2       bir? & m>riages1 #cgg-cgh2  

,reg5t ( ! ,ne!rl&s1 #cgi2              
popul>ity1 #cgi-chj2       suppresses   
outbreak ( ! ,iconocla/s1 #chj-cha2     
sup]s$$ by ,duke ( ,alva1 #cha2 #dac2   
#dai2 #dbe4      ,m>g>et ( ,york1       
betro?al to ,*>les ! ,bold at ,damme1   
#ge-gg2       resides at ,mal9es1 #ccc2 
#ccf4      ,m>ia ,!resa1 ,empress (     
,au/ria1 #deh4      ,m>ie ( ,burgundy1  
tomb at ,bruges1 #ea-ec2       /atue1   
#fb2 #bic2       m>ries ,maximilian1    
#bid2       *ildr5 (1 #ccc2 #cdd2 #cde2 
#cdi4      ,m>ie ( ,*ampagne1 ,c\ntess (
 ,fl&]s1 #acc2       d$icates ,clo?     
,hall at ,ypres1 #acd2       dea? 9     
,syria1 #acd2 #afb4      ,m>ie1 ,que5 ( 
,hung>y1 #cci2       ,reg5t ( !         
,ne!rl&s1 #cdb-cdc2       insurrection  
at ,gh5t dur+ reign (1 #cdi-cej2 #ced4  
,m>lbor\gh1 ,duke (1 captures ,t\rnai1  
#bej2       w9s ,battle ( ,aud5a]de1    
#cia2       recall$ 9 peasant nurs]y    
song1 #cia-cib2       takes ,antw]p aft]
 ,battle ( ,ramillies1 #deh4      ,m>ot1
 ,clem5t1 #dbh4      ,m>vis ,t[]s at    

,t\rnai1 #bfe4      ,mass1 #cda4        
,matsys1 ,qu5t91 life & pr9cipal works1 
#dja-djc4      ,mat!w1 ,duke ( ,lorra9e1
 #abb4      ,maurice1 ,c\nt ( ,nassau1  
w9s ,battle ( ! ,dunes1 #if-ih2 #dfe2   
captures ,sluys1 #dfh4      ,maximilian1
 ,emp]or1 #ea2       /atue (1 #fb2      
conflict ) ,bruges1 #ga2       m>riage  
to ,m>ie ( ,burgundy1 #bid2 #ccc2       
,reg5t ( ,fl&]s1 #ccd2       fondness = 
daught]1 ,m>g>et ( ,au/ria1 #ccg2       
dea?1 #cch2 #cde2 #cdg2 #daa4           
,maximilian1 ,emp]or ( ,mexico1 #cfi4   
,meml+1 ,hans1 at ,bruges1 #bie-bif2    
works (1 9 ,hospital ( ,/4 ,jean1       
#bif-bih2       o!r notable pa9t+s1     
#bih-bii2 #cjg2       9 collection (    
,m>g>et ( ,au/ria1 #cda4      ,m]cator1 
#dca4      ,m]ghelynck ,museum at       
,ypres1 #aci-adj2 #cjd4      ,meuni]1   
,con/ant91 /atue ( pe*eur des crevettes1
 #ic2       pa9t+ at ,c\rtrai1 #afj4    
,mi*elle1 fir/ wife ( ,philip ! ,good1  
#ahc2       dea? (1 #bcc-bcd4           
,middleburg1 pa9t+s by ,van d] ,weyd5   

at1 #cji4      ,m9newat]1 #cc2          
view ( ,notre ,dame f1 #ej2       =m]ly 
*ief h>b\r ( ,bruges1 #ga-gb4           
,mol9et1 ,jean1 #cda4      ,mons1       
capital ( ,ha9aut1 #acj2       ,flemi%  
"n =1 #aej2 #bai2       ,hotel de       
,ville1 #bbh2 #bdc2 #beb4               
,montalemb]t1 quot$1 #chh4              
,montanus1 ,arias1 sup]vises ,biblia    
,regia1 #dbf2       op9ion ( ,*ri/oph]  
,plant91 #dbg2 #dca4      ,morat1       
,battle (1 #bia4      ,moretus1 ,bal?az>
 ,i1 #dcb4      ,moretus1 ,ed\>d1 sells 
,plant9-,moretus museum to city (       
,antw]p1         #dcb4      ,moretus1   
,jean ,i1 m>ries ,m>t9a1 daught] (      
,*ri/oph] ,plant91         #dbi2 #dca2  
#dcb2       tomb 9 ! ,ca!dral1 #dda2    
employs ,rub5s1 #ddc2       fri5d (     
,rub5s1 #ddh4      ,moretus1 ,jean ,,ii1
 #dca-dcb4      ,mont]eau1 murd] ( ,john
 ! ,fe>less at1 #bbj4      ,morte       
d',ypres1 la 7! ,dea? ( ,ypres71 #aag2  
#abb2 #abc2 #add4      ,motley1 cit$1   
#dac4       ,n      ,nancy1 siege (1    

#bia2       dea? ( ,*>les ! ,bold be=e1 
#bib2 #bie2 #ccc4      ,namur1 #cab4    
,napoleon1 saves ,*apel ( ! ,holy       
,blood1 #ef2 #id2 #bhb2 #ccj2 #ceh2     
#ceh-cei2       removes tape/ries f     
,aud5a]de1 #cgf2       at ,antw]p1 #dfj4
      ,nauwela]ts1 (ficial bell r+] (   
,bruges1 #ff4      ,ne]w9d51 ,battle (1 
#dei4      ,ni*olas ,v1 ,pope1 #cdj4    
,ni*olas de ,v]dun1 #bgg4               
,nieuport1 at "t ( ! ,crusades1 #ac2    
receives *>t] f ,philip ( ,alsace1 #ee2 
"s fam\s sieges (1 #ie2       ,battle ( 
! ,dunes1 #if-ih2       ,*amb]s (       
,rhetoric1 #ii2       ,t[] ( ! ,templ>s1
 ,clo? ,hall & *ur* ( ,notre ,dame1     
#ii-aja2       ! ,ys] ,riv]1 locks &    
canals1 #ajc-ajd2 #dfe2 #dgc4           
,norsem51 an>*y result+ f invasions (1  
#cf2       capture ,t\rnai1 #bdh2 #bef2 
#bei2       burn *ur* at ,aud5a]de1     
#chc4      ,notre ,dame1 ,ca!dral (1 at 
,antw]p1 #bj2 #bbh2       well cov] made
 by ,qu5t9 ,matsys1 #dja2               
description (1 #ddj-ddb4      ,notre    

,dame de ,pamela1 *ur* (1 at ,aud5a]de1 
#chg-chi4      ,notre ,dame1 *ur* (1 at 
,bruges1 #ej-ec2       rema9s ( ,*>les !
 ,bold plac$ 91 #bib2 #cjc2 #cjf4       
,notre ,dame1 *ur* (1 at ,c\rtrai1      
#afb-afc4      ,notre ,dame au del de la
 ,dyle1 *ur* (1 at ,mal9es1 #caf2       
description1 #cbg-cbh4      ,notre ,dame
 d',hanswyck1 *ur* (1 at ,mal9es1 #caf2 
description1 #cbh-cbi4      ,notre      
,dame1 ,ca!dral (1 at ,t\rnai1 #bde2    
description1 #bee-bfb4       ,o         
,ord] ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece1 #eh2 #agb2    
#age2       e/abli%$ by ,philip ! ,good1
 #bba-bbb2       ftes at ,lille1 #bbg2  
,t\rnai tape/ries ord]$ =1 #bgi2        
*apt] at ,mal9es1 #ccd2       at        
,antw]p1 #dab2       portrait ( ,*>les  
,v we>+ insignia (1 #cgf4      ,o/5de1  
"p ( ! ,franc ( ,bruges1 #ei2 #ajb2     
canal f ,nieuport to1 #ajc2 #cbd2 #cei2 
on ma9 t\ri/ r\tes1 #dfd2       great   
siege ( #afja-afjc1 #dfe-dfi2       r5[n
 z a wat]+ place s9ce #ahcj1 #dgj2      
description ( ! ,digue1 ! ,esplanade & !

 bea*1 #dga-dgb2       summ] prices at1 
#dgb-dgc2       ! ,kursaal1 #dgc-dgg2   
! ,e/acade1 #dgg-dgh2       la/ glimpses
 (1 #dgh-dgi4      ,orleans1 ,duke (1   
#bbj2 #bcc4      ,ortelius1 #dca4       
,oud5a>de1 ,jan van1 #gb4       ,p      
,pape1 ,simon de1 e>ly pa9t] (          
,aud5a]de1 #chd2 #chi4      ,p>ma1 ,duke
 (1 captures ,ypres1 #add2              
besieges ,t\rnai1 #bdi2       son (     
,m>g>et ( ,p>ma1 #cgh2       ,reg5t ( ! 
,ne!rl&s1 #cgi2 #dad2       siege (     
,antw]p1 #dai-dbb2 #ddg2       siege (  
,o/5de1 #dfe4      ,pauwels1 ,f]d9&1    
#aba-abb4      ,pavia1 ,battle (1 #fb4  
,pembroke1 ,duke (1 #gj4      ,pronne1  
#ach2       ,l\is ,,xi visits ,*>les !  
,bold at1 #bhh2 #bic4      ,pt]9ck1     
,franois1 mak] ( f9e porcela9s at       
,t\rnai1 #bhj4      ,philib]t ,,ii1     
,duke ( ,savoy1 #cce4      ,philip (    
,alsace1 ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 grants *>t]s to
 _m ,flemi%         cities1 #ee2 #ei2   
grants ! ,keurbrief1 #ei-fa2 #hg2 #abi2 
builds ,spuytorre at ,c\rtrai1 #afd2    

erects ,*teau des ,comtes at ,gh5t1     
#aga2 #agc2 #ahi4      ,philip ,augu/us1
 ,k+ ( ,france1 #ace-acf2 #ach2 #aec2   
,treaty ( ,arras1 #ahi2       annexes   
,t\rnai1 #bdh2       pa9t+ (1 at        
,t\rnai1 #bgd4      ,philip ! ,bold1    
,duke ( ,burgundy1 #ij2 #abd2           
removes clock at ,c\rtrai1 #adh2        
rebuilds ,spuytorre at ,c\rtrai1 #afd2  
m>ries ,m>g>et ( ,maele1 #ahc2          
significance ( ?is ev5t1 #bje-bjf2      
ackn[l$g$ z ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 #bah2       
arranges ! m>riages ( ,cambrai1         
#bah-bai2       dea?1 #bbj2       c\rt  
pa9t] (1 #bcj-bca2 #cig4      ,philippe 
de ,*ampaigne1 #cgf4      ,philip !     
,fair 7,philippe le ,bel71 ,k+ (        
,france1 #aec2       annexes ,fl&]s1    
#aed2       at ,bruges1 #aee2       rage
 ov] ! ,mat9 de ,bruges1 #aef2          
defeat$ at ,c\rtrai1 #aeg-afj2          
%]iffs (1 besieg$ at ,gh5t1 #agg4       
,philip ! ,good1 ,duke ( ,burgundy1 #d2 
#eh2 #ij2 #age2 #agf2       becomes     
,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 ,ha9aut & ,holl&1 &     

,duke (         ,brabant1 #bbj-bba2     
f\nds ,ord] ( ! ,gold5 ,fleece1         
#bba-bbb2       siege ( ,calais1        
#bbb-bbc2       repuls$ at ,bruges      
7,bruges vesp]s71 #bbc-bbd2             
humbles ,bruges1 #bbd-bbe2       cru%es 
,gh5t at ,gavre1 #bbe-bbg2       holds  
ftes at ,lille1 #bbg2       div]g5t     
e/imates ( "*1 #bbh-bbi2 #bca2          
visits /udio ( ,jean ,van ,eyck1        
#bce-bcf2       ord]s portrait ( ,isabel
 ( ,portugal1 #bch2       ord]s         
tape/ries at ,t\rnai1 #bgi2 #bhg2 #cje2 
#cdj2 #cdd2       grants lib]al *>t] to 
,antw]p1 #cih4      ,philip ! ,h&some1  
,duke ( ,burgundy1 #ea2 #fb2 #ia2       
education1 #ccc2       premature dea?1  
#ccd2 #cdf4      ,philip ,,ii1 ,k+ (    
,spa91 #ia2 #bcf-bcg2 #bdi2 #bib-bic2   
unwise policy provokes revolt1 #cgi-chj2
       s5ds ,duke ( ,alva to puni%      
iconocla/s1 #cha2 #dab2 #dac-dae2       
rejoices at fall ( ,antw]p1 #dbb2 #dbd2 
aids ,plant9 to publi% ,biblia ,regia1  
#dbf2 #dbg2 #dcb2 #ddg2 #dfe4           

,philip ( ,valois1 ,k+ ( ,france1       
#bja-bjb4      ,pi]re de ,beckre1 #eb4  
,pius ,,ii1 #cgh4      ,piz>ro1 #cdf4   
,plant91 ,*ri/oph]1 e>ly life1 #dbc-dbd2
       e/abli%es pr9t+ h\se at ,antw]p1 
#dbe2       issues ! ,biblia ,regia1    
#dbf-dbg2       ext5t ( bus9ess1        
#dbg-dbh2       moves to ,friday ,m>ket1
 #dbh-dbi2       dea?1 #dbi-dcj2        
ext5t ( a*ievem5ts1 #dca2       tomb 9 !
 ,ca!dral1 #dda4      ,plant9-,moretus  
,museum1 at ,antw]p1 #dbc2 #dcb-dcg2    
portraits by ,rub5s1 #ddd2       sket*es
 by ,rub5s1 #dde4      ,p\rbus1 ,piet]1 
#cja4      ,prvo/1 ,jean1 #cja4         
,procession ( ! ,holy ,blood at ,bruges1
 #ef2       ,procession at ,furnes1     
#hg-hi2       ,peysprocessie at ,mal9es1
 #cae4      ,pyn1 ,liv91 execution (1   
#cdi-cej2 #cea2 #ceb4       ,q          
,quell91 ,erasmus1 ,! ,adoration ( !    
,%eph]ds at ,mal9es1 #cbg2         #dcc2
       f\nds family ( sculptors &       
pa9t]s1 #deb-edc4      ,qu5t9 ,durw>d by
 ,sir ,walt] ,scott1 cit$1 #bhh4        

,r      ,rabot at ,gh5t1 #cde-cdf4      
,raeske1 ,ri*>d de1 #cg4                
,ramillies1 ,battle (1 #deh4            
,raphel+51 ,francis1 *ief pro(-read] (  
,*ri/oph] ,plant91         #dbg2        
m>ries ,m>g>et1 elde/ daught]1 #dbi4    
,rnacle de ,flor5nes1 #cda4             
,rep>ation invisible1 #bae-baf4         
,reques5s1 ,reg5t ( ! ,ne!rl&s1 #dae4   
,ri*>d1 ,duke ( ,gl\ce/]1 lat] ,ri*>d   
,,iii1 ,k+ ( ,engl&1         #cjc4      
,rivire1 ,jeanne1 wife ( ,*ri/oph]      
,plant91 #dbc2       aids husb& ) a l95 
bus9ess1 #dbi4      ,robb9s1 ,philippe1 
ma/] tape/ry weav] ( ,aud5a]de1 #chg4   
,rob]t ! ,frisian1 ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 #ada4
      ,rob]t ,,ii1 ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1      
#hg-hh4      ,rob9son1 ,wilfrid1        
,antw]p1 an ,hi/orical ,sket*1 quot$1   
#cig4      ,rockox1 burgoma/] ( ,antw]p1
 #ddh4      ,roda1 ,j]ome1 #dae4        
,rol&1 ! great bell at ,gh5t1 #aif-aig2 
inscription on1 #aif2       tak5 d[n by 
,*>les ,v1 #ced4      ,rooses1 ,max1    
,director ( ,plant9-,moretus ,museum1   

quot$1 #bci-bdj2         #bih2          
description ( ,plant9 ,museum1 cit$1    
#dcc4      ,rosbecque1 ,battle (1 #afb2 
#afc2 #bjg4      ,roya1 at ,bruges1 #bf2
 #bg2 #eb4      ,rub5s1 ,pet] ,paul1 ,/4
 ,bavon )draw+ f ! ,_w at ,gh5t1        
#bda2       ,*ri/ on ! ,cross at        
,mal9es1 #cag2       ,miracul\s ,draught
 ( ,fi%es at ,mal9es1 #cbg-cbh2         
,adoration ( ! ,magi at ,mal9es1 #ccj2  
#chf2 #dcc2       rank among ! ma/]s1   
#dch2       two ma/]pieces 9 ,ca!dral at
 ,antw]p1 #cci-ddj2       ,resurrection 
9 ! ,ca!dral1 #dda2       at height (   
fame1 #ddb-ddd2       enorm\s           
productivity1 #ddd-dde2       dea?1     
#dde2       ,pr(4 ,waut]s' e/imate (1   
#ddf-ddg2       patronis$ by !          
,ar*dukes1 #ddh2       diplomatic       
missions1 #ddh2       lett]s1 #ddi2     
#dee2 #def4      ,rudolph ,,ii1 ,emp]or 
( ,au/ria1 #dje4       ,s      ,/4 ,am&1
 e>ly mission>y1 #aha4      ,/4 ,basil1 
crypt (1 at ,bruges1 #bg-bh2            
re/oration1 #eg2 #aga4      ,/4 ,bavon1 

,abbey (1 at ,gh5t1 #aha-ahe2 #ahi2     
de/ruction (1 by ,*>les ,v1 #cec4       
,/4 ,bavon1 ,ca!dral (1 at ,gh5t1 #agb2 
crypt1 #ahh-ahi2       alt>-piece by !  
,van ,eycks1 #bcd-bch2       o!r works (
 art 91 #bdj-bda2 #cee2 #cfj4      ,/4  
,brice1 *ur* (1 at ,t\rnai1 #bfc-bfd4   
,/4 ,donatian1 *ur* (1 at ,bruges1 #ce2 
sc5e ( murd] ( ,*>les ! ,good1 #ch2     
besieg$ by foes ( ! ,erembalds1 #ci-da2 
,erembalds flung f t[]1 #da2            
de/roy$ 9 ,fr5* ,revolution1 #db2       
relics & approximate site1 #db-dc2 #bib4
      ,/4 ,eleu!reus1 /atue (1 on portal
 ( ,ca!dral1 #bfj2       ,*asse (1      
#bgf-bgg2       life (1 depict$ on      
tape/ry 9 ,ca!dral1 #bgi4      ,/4      
,george1 *ur* (1 at ,nancy1 #bib4       
,/4 ,ghisla91 #beb4      ,/e4 ,gudule1  
,ca!dral (1 at ,brussels1 #cdj4      ,/4
 ,jacques1 *ur* (1 at ,antw]p1 #dde-ddf4
      ,/4 ,jean1 ,hospital (1 at        
,bruges1 leg5d ( nurs+ ,meml+1          
#bie-bif2       ,%r9e ( ,/4 ,ursula1    
#bif-bih2       o!r works by ,meml+ at1 

#bih2       description (1 #bii2 #cja4  
,/4 ,jean1 *ur* (1 at ,gh5t1 "n *ang$ to
 ,/4 ,bavon 9 #aedj1         #ahh4      
,/4 ,jean1 *ur* (1 at ,mal9es1 #ccj-cca4
      ,/4 ,luke1 ,guild (1 fir/ organis$
 9 ,flemi% t[ns1 #bbi-bcj2       admits 
bro!rs ,van ,eyck at ,bruges1 #bcd2     
at ,t\rnai1 #bgj-bga2       at ,gh5t    
admits ,van d] ,meire1 #cfc2            
admits ,frans ,floris at ,antw]p1 #djc2 
admits ,*ri/oph] ,plant9 at ,antw]p1    
#dbc2       elects ,rub5s ,presid5t1    
#dde4      ,/4 ,m>t91 *ur* (1 at        
,c\rtrai1 #afa-afb4      ,/4 ,m>t91 *ur*
 (1 at ,ypres1 #abe-abf4      ,/4 ,m>y1 
*ur* (1 at ,antw]p1 #dab2       becomes 
,ca!dral ( ,notre ,dame 9 #aefj1 #ddj4  
,/4 ,mi*el1 *ur* (1 at ,gh5t1 #aha4     
,/4 ,ni*olas1 *ur* (1 at ,dixmude1      
#hd-he2 #dhb4      ,/4 ,ni*olas1 *ur* (1
 at ,gh5t1 #ahf-ahh4      ,/4 ,om]1     
seiz$ by ,philip ,augu/us1 #ace4        
,/4 ,pet]1 mona/]y (1 at ,gh5t1         
#aha-ahb2 #ahi4      ,/4 ,pet]1 *ur* (1 
at ,l\va91 #cjg-cjh4      ,/4 ,piat1    

m>tyrdom at ,t\rnai1 #bde2       /atue  
(1 on portal ( ,ca!dral1 #bfj2          
life (1 depict$ on tape/ry 9 ,ca!dral1  
#bgi4      ,/4 ,rombaut1 ,ca!dral (1 at 
,mal9es1 #cab2 #cac2       fir/ view (1 
#cag2       ! t[] & its build]s1        
#cah-cbc2       ! *imes1 #cbc-cbe2      
int]ior & art treasures1 #cbe-cbg2 #cbh2
       t[] complet$1 #cdj4      ,/4     
,sauveur1 ,ca!dral (1 at ,bruges1       
#dg-ej2 #cje-cjg2 #cfb4      ,/e4       
,ursula1 ,%r9e (1 #bif-bih4      ,/e4   
,walburge1 *ur* (1 at ,aud5a]de1 #cfh2  
#cfi2 #chb2       description (1        
#chc-che2 #chi4      ,/e4 ,walburge1    
*ur* (1 at ,furnes1 #hh & #ib4          
,sav5!m1 #ddi-dea4      ,savoy1 ,du*ess 
(1 see ,m>g>et ( ,au/ria4               
,saxe-,coburg-,go?a1 ,leopold1 ,pr9ce (1
 elect$ ,k+ ( ! ,belgians1         #dfa4
      ,saxe1 ,maurice1 victor at        
,font5oy1 #bea-bee4      ,s*eldt1 e/u>y1
 #ag2       ! greye/ ( grey riv]s1 #ah2 
hi/ory ( navigation on1 #ah-ai2         
view f1 #ai-bj2       riv] traffic on1  

#bj2       ,antw]p f1 #ba2       monum5t
 on ,place ,m>nix1 #ai2 #afi2       at  
,t\rnai1 #bff2 #cjj2       snakes 91    
#chb2       at ,aud5a]de1 #chg2 #chi2   
leg5d ( ,brabo1 #cic-cid2               
displaces ! ,zwyn z highway ( comm]ce1  
#cid-cie2       fight = ma/]y (1        
#cii-djj2       deep5s z comm]ce gr[s1  
#djj2 #dja2 #dad2       clos$ dur+ reign
 ( ! ,ar*dukes1 #ddg2       op5$ to     
navigation 9 #agie1 #dei2       docks   
erect$ by ,napoleon1 #dfj2       free "u
 ! ,dut*1 #dfj2       fre$ p]man5tly by 
,leopold ,i 9 #ahfc1 #dfa2       gr[? ( 
comm]ce s9ce1 #dfb4      ,scott1 ,sir   
,walt]1 ,qu5t9 ,durw>d1 cit$1 #bhh2     
#cjd4      ,segh]s1 ,daniel1 #ea4       
,%elley1 ,ode to ! ,skyl>k1 quot$1      
#afg-afh4      ,sigeb]t1 bro!r (        
,*ilp]ic1 #bdh2 #bha4      ,sluys1 "p ( 
! ,franc ( ,bruges1 #ei2       l&+ place
 ( ,m>g>et ( ,york 9 #adfh1 #gf2        
,battle (1 #bja2       captur$ by       
,maurice ( ,nassau1 #dfh4               
,snell9ck1 ,jean1 ,creation ( ,eve at   

,aud5a]de1 #chh-chi4      ,snyd]s1      
,francis1 animal pictures (1 #dec4      
,spani% ,fury1 !1 #dae-dah4             
,spi]9ckx1 ,pet]1 #chf4      ,sp9ola1   
,ambrose1 ,m>quis (1 captures ,o/5de1   
#dfh-dfi4      ,/alla]t1 ,dea? ( ,dido1 
#bgd4      ,/e51 #cif2 #cih2            
description (1 #cii4      ,/rada1 !     
hi/orian1 cit$1 #cgh4      ,sw]ts1      
,jean1 mural pa9t+s at ,ypres1 #abe2    
at ,c\rtrai1 #aeb4       ,t             
,tailleb]t1 ,urban1 #hd4      ,tancm>1  
,"l ( ,/rat51 #cg4      ,tani1 ,jacopo1 
#bih4      ,tape/ry1 #e2       work]s   
organis$ into a guild1 #bcj2       9    
*ur* ( ,/4 ,brice at ,t\rnai1 #bfd2     
weav+ at ,t\rnai1 #bgh-bhj2 #cgf2       
at ,aud5a]de1 #chd-cij4      ,templ>s1  
,t[] (1 at ,nieuport1 #ie2 #ii2         
,h\se (1 at ,ypres1 #adj-ada4           
,t5i]s1 ,david1 #g2 #chf2       ma/] (  
sc5es ( homely ,flemi% life1 #dec-ded2  
#dee2 #def4      ,t\rnai1 tape/ries1 #e2
       =e/ (1 #acd2       besieg$ by    
,edw>d ,,iii1 #bjb2       ,guild ( ,/4  

,luke organis$1 #bbi2       tape/ry     
work]s organis$1 #bcj2       olde/ city 
9 ,belgium1 #bdb2       ,turris         
,n]viorum ( ,cs>1 #bde2       capital ( 
,m]ov+ian ,k+s1 #bde-bdh2       _m      
sieges1 #bdh-bej2       ,battle (       
,font5oy1 #bej-bee2       ,belfry1      
#bfb-bfc2       ,roman h\ses & *ur* (   
,/4 ,brice1 #bfc-bfd2       relics ( ,k+
 ,*ild]ic1 #bfd-bfe2       ,m>vis ,t[]s1
 ,pont des ,tr\s1 & t[] ( ,h5ry ,,viii1 
#bfe-bfg2       ,ville d',art1 #bfh-bfi 
& #bha-bhb2       ,rob]t ,camp91        
,jacques ,d>et & ,van d] ,weyd51        
#bfi-bgb2       ,clo? ,hall & ,museum ( 
,f9e ,arts1 #bgb-bge2       lat] arti/s1
 #bgd-bge2       sculptors at1 #bge-bgf2
       gold & silv]smi?s at1 #bgf-bgg2  
copp]smi?s at1 #bgg-bgh2       tape/ry  
weav]s1 #bgh-bhj2       porcela9s (1    
#bhj-bha2       manufactures ( /a9$     
glass1 #bha-bhb2       manufacture ( f9e
 c>pets1 #bhb2 #cab2       monum5ts     
classifi$1 #cfc2 #cgg2       tape/ry    
weav+ at1 #chc4      ,trajan1 ! ,j      

,emp]or1 pa9t+ by ,van d] ,weyd51 #bga4 
,trie/1 ,bi%op1 tomb 9 ,ca!dral ( ,/4   
,bavon at ,gh5t1 #bda2       enc\rages  
horticulture at ,gh5t1 #cee-cef2 #ceh4  
,tur5ne1 defeat$ by ,cond ne> ,nieuport1
 #ie4      ,tur91 ,exposition (1 ,t\rnai
 c>pet %[n at1 #bhb4      ,turnh\t1 lace
 mak]s at1 #e2       fairy hill ne>1    
#dji4       ,u      ,urb91 ,duke (1     
#cgh4       ,v      ,valckx1 ,pi]re1    
sculptor1 #cha4      ,val5ci5nes1 #acd2 
#acg2       lace made at ,ypres1 #ada2  
#bai2       tape/ry work]s organis$1    
#bcj2 #cea4      ,van ,artevelde1       
,jacques 7or ,jacob71 besieges ,l\is (  
,maele at ,gh5t1         #agh2          
rise to p[]1 #aii-bjj2       alliance ) 
,edw>d ,,iii1 #bja2       ,battle (     
,sluys1 #bja-bjb2       assass9ation1   
#bjb-bjd2 #bdh-bdi2 #cig4      ,van     
,artevelde1 ,philip1 brief c>e]1        
#bjf-bjg2       big cannon (1 #bjh2     
at siege ( ,aud5a]de1 #cia4      ,van   
,br$ael1 ,alex&]1 #chf4      ,van d5    
,broeck1 #dca4      ,van ,dyck1 ,an?ony1

 ,! ,rais+ ( ! ,cross at ,c\rtrai1      
#afb-afc2       ,! ,crucifixion at      
,mal9es1 #cbg2 #dcc2       pupil (      
,rub5s1 #dii2       ,sa9t ,m>t9 divid+  
,cloak among ! ,begg>s1 #dii-dea2       
at ,antw]p1 #dea2       c\rt pa9t] (    
,*>les ,i1 #dea2       *ief works1      
#dea-deb2 #def4      ,van ,eyck1 ,hub]t1
 tomb/one at ,abbey ( ,/4 ,bavon1 #ahd2 
discov]y ( art ( pa9t+ ) oils1 #bca-bcc2
       9 s]vice ( ,philip ! ,good1      
#bcc-bcd2       plans & beg9s ,!        
,adoration ( ! ,lamb1 #bcd-bce2         
dea?1 #bcd2       monum5t1 #bda2 #bfi2  
#bgj2 #bie2 #cfj4      ,van ,eyck1      
,jean1 col\rs /atues = ,hotel de ,ville 
at ,bruges1 #eh2         #ei2           
discov]y ( art ( pa9t+ ) oils1 #bca-bcc2
       ent]s s]vice ( ,philip ! ,good1  
#bcc-bcd2       completes ,! ,adoration 
( ! ,lamb1 #bce2       lat] pa9t+s1     
#bch-bci2       dea?1 #bdj2             
monum5t1 #bda2 #bfi2 #bgj2 #bie2 #cja2  
,la ,belle ,portugalaise at ,mal9es1    
#cda-cdb2 #cfj4      ,van d] ,gheyn/1   

,jehanne 7or ,jeanne71 #cgg-cgh4        
,van d] ,goes1 ,hugo1 #bgc2 #cja2 #cjg2 
life & pr9cipal works1 #cfj-cfb4        
,van ,ma]lant1 ,jacob1 ,flemi% poet1    
#ei2       /atue at ,damme1 #gc-gd4     
,van d] ,meire1 ,g]>d1 pa9t] ( ,gh5t1   
#cfc4      ,van ,nieuw5hove1 ,m>t91     
pa9t+ (1 by ,meml+1 #bih4      ,van     
,noort1 ,adam1 tea*] ( ,rub5s1 #dda4    
,van ,orley1 ,b]n>d1 #cci2 #cda4        
,van d] ,paele1 ,george1 pa9t+ (1 by    
,jean ,van ,eyck1 #bci-bdj4      ,van   
,pde1 ,h5ri1 #cga4      ,van d] ,s*eld51
 ,paul1 sculptor1 #cgc2       wood5     
doorway at ,aud5a]de1 #cge4      ,van   
,sev]donck1 #bgd4      ,van de ,walle1  
burgoma/] ( ,bruges1 #bbd2 #bbe4        
,van d] ,voort1 ,mi*el1 sculptor (      
,antw]p1 #cbf4      ,van d] ,weyd51     
,rogi] 7,rog] de la ,pa/ure71 #bgj-bgb2 
#bgc2       influ5ce ( sculpture on1    
#bge2 #bhj2 #cjj2 #cjg2 #cjh2 #cji2     
#cda4      ,vauban1 milit>y eng9e]1     
con/ructs walls ( ,ypres1 #adb2         
=tifies ,t\rnai1 #bej2 #cab4            

,v]banck1 ,georges1 #bda4               
,v]brugg51 ,p4 ,h41 sculptor1 #bda2     
#dec4      ,v]e1 ,sir ,francis1 ,engli% 
comm&] at ,o/5de1 #dfg-dfh4             
,v]haeg51 ,!odore1 sculptor1 #cbi2      
f9e c>v+s at ,mal9es1 #cca4      ,v]lat1
 ,*>les1 #dah-dai4      ,v]voort1       
,mi*el1 #ddb4      ,vivs1 ,l\is1 #cda4  
,vois91 ,belgian hi/orian1 #afj4        
,vos1 ,m>t9 de1 _m works (1 at ,antw]p1 
#djd2 #dca4      ,vri5dt1 ,albre*t &    
,julian de1 frescoes at ,bruges1 #eh-ei2
       at ,furnes1 #ia4      ,vri5dt1   
,cornelius de1 #def-deg4      ,vos1     
,cornelius de1 portraits (1 #dec4       
,vydts1 ,jodocus1 #bcd4       ,w        
,wagh5ak]e1 ,dom9ique de1 ar*itect1     
#cdh4      ,walloon prov9ces1 #ac2 #bd4 
,walt] ( ,/rat51 #cg4      ,wat]loo1    
,battle (1 #id2 #aeh2 #bej2 #cei2 #dfj4 
,waut]s1 ,pr(4 ,a4 ,j41 ,hi/ory (       
,flemi% ,pa9t+1 cit$1 #bbi2             
attributes portrait ( ,*>les ! ,bold to 
,van d] ,goes1 #cfb2       on ,pet]     
,breughel ! ,eld]1 quot$1 #djd-dje2     

eulogy ( ,rub5s1 quot$1 #ddf-ddg4       
,waut]s1 ,emile1 pa9t+ ( ! madness (    
,hugo ,van d] ,goes1 #cfa4      ,weale1 
,james1 cit$1 #bii4      ,we/5de1 #dgc4 
,:ite ,hoods1 #ahh2       de/roy ca/les 
( ,lilia]t nobles1 #bjj4      ,william (
 ,dampi]re1 ,c\nt ( ,fl&]s1 #aec4       
,william ,i1 ,k+ ( ,holl&1 #dfj4        
,william ( ,juli]s1 ,provo/ ( ,mae/ri*t1
 #aed2 #aic4      ,william ! ,sil5t1    
,pr9ce ( ,orange1 #cbj2 #cbh2 #dab2     
#dai2       dea?1 #dai2       plans =   
def5ce ( ,antw]p disreg>d$1 #dbj-dba4   
,w9d]s1 sculptor1 #ai4      ,witte1     
,gasp> de1 #chf4      ,wolsey1 ,c>d9al1 
#bdi4      ,wordswor?1 quot$1 #afh4     
,wyn&ael1 #ec2 #acb4       ,y           
,yp]le1 tribut>y to ! ,ys]1 #ajd4       
,ypres1 at ! "t ( ! ,crusades1 #ac2     
=tifi$ by ,baldw9 ,,ii1 #cd2            
execution ( ,provo/ ( ,/4 ,donatian at1 
#dj-da2       receives *>t] f ,philip ( 
,alsace1 #ee2       /ubborn def5ce 9 !  
,great ,w>1 #aaf-aah2       ,halle aux  
,draps1 or ,clo? ,hall1 #aah-abe2       

*ur* ( ,/4 ,m>t91 #abe-abf2       ,gr&e 
,place1 #abf-abi2       ,muse           
,m]ghelynck1 #aci-adj2       rue de     
,lille & anci5t city walls1 #ada-adc2   
causes ( decl9e1 #adc-ade2              
language spok5 at1 #aei2       guildsm5 
(1 at ,battle ( ! ,spurs1 #aeg2 #aij2   
#aib2 #aih-aii2       influ5ce (        
,jacques ,van ,artevelde 91 #bjj2 #bjb2 
,mel*ior ,bro$]lam1 e>ly pa9t] (1       
#bcj-bca2 #cjd2       ,hotel de ,ville  
de/roy$ by ! ,g]mans1 #dhb4             
,ys5brant1 ,adria51 e>ly pa9t] (        
,bruges1 #cja4      ,ys] ,canal1 limit (
 ! ,g]man advance1 #id2       ! locks1 !
 riv] & ! ?ree canals1 #ajc-ajd4        
,z      ,zee-,brugge1 f ! sea1 #af4     
,zegh]s1 ,g]>d1 religi\s pictures (1    
#dec4      ,zwyn1 anci5t *annel to      
,bruges1 #af-ag2 #ei2       silt+ up (1 
#gj-ga2       replac$ by ! ,s*eldt1 z   
*annel ( comm]ce1 #cid-cie2 #cih4