,transcriber's ,note ,the ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations was added4 ,many of the figures were ,,not in sequential order within the original publication and are transcribed as printed4 ,emphasis notation for italic is ,text and bold is ,text4 ,whole and fractional parts of numbers is displayed as #b-a_/d4 ,,home-,,made ,,toys ,,for ,,girls ,,and ,,boys ,,books ,,by ,a4 ,,neely ,,hall #hvo4 ,cloth4 ,illustrated with hundreds of full-page and working drawings by the author and ,norman ,p4 ,hall ,,the ,,boy ,,craftsman ,price net #a4fj ,postpaid #a4hb ,,handicraft ,,for ,,handy ,,boys ,price net #b4jj ,postpaid #b4be ,,the ,,handy ,,boy ,price net #a4fj ,postpaid #a4hb ,,lothrop1 ,,lee ,,shepard ,,co41 ,,boston ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bhg ,,and #bhh4 ,,an ,,auto ,,delivery-,,wagon ,,built ,,of ,,cigar-,,boxes4 7,see page #aib47 ,,home-,,made ,,toys ,,for ,,girls ,,and ,,boys ,wooden and ,cardboard ,toys1 ,mechanical and ,electrical ,toys ,by ,a4 ,neely ,hall ,author of ,the ,boy ,craftsman1 ,handicraft for ,handy ,boys1 ,the ,handy ,boy ,etc4 ,with over three hundred illustrations and working-drawings by the author and ,norman ,p4 ,hall ,,boston ,,lothrop1 ,,lee ,,shepard ,,co4 ,,copyright1 #aiae1 ,,by ,,lothrop1 ,,lee ,,shepard ,,company ,,published1 ,,august1 #aiae ,all rights reserved ,,home-,,made ,,toys ,,for ,,girls ,,and ,,boys ,norwood ,press ,j4 ,s4 ,cushing ,co4--,berwick ,smith ,co4 ,norwood1 ,mass41 ,u4,s4,a4 ,constructive ideas expel destructive ideas from the juvenile mind4 ,,introductory ,,notes ,through the author's handicraft volumes1 and magazine and newspaper articles1 thousands of boys and girls who never realized they could make their own toys1 have succeeded in constructing models which would do credit to ,santa ,claus' master toy-makers4 ,the success of this new home industry has suggested the need of a volume devoted entirely to toy-making1 and in ,,home-,,made ,,toys ,,for ,,girls ,,and ,,boys the author has brought together a large number of the toy ideas from his former handicraft volumes1 and from his articles published in the ,ladies' ,home ,journal1 ,woman's ,home ,companion1 ,good ,housekeeping1 the ,boys' ,magazine1 and other publications1 and he believes that as collected and arranged the material will be found a veritable gold-mine of toy-making information4 ,go to any toy store and price the toys similar to those described within these covers1 then estimate if you can how much the other toys you do not find would cost if manufactured1 and you will discover that one hundred dollars would not cover their value4 ,one splendid thing about these home-made toys is that the greater part of them require little more than the pick-up material found at home4 ,few boys and girls are given a one hundred dollar assortment of toys at a time1 yet any one can own a collection of this value who is willing to spend the time necessary to follow the instructions given in this book4 ,probably1 though1 some of the toys will be wanted now1 and the others one1 two or three seasons hence1 because1 you see1 the book is an all-the-year-round handy book with suggestions for every season4 ,some of the toys will be of especial interest to boys1 yet girls who like what boys like will enjoy making them also4 ,home-made toys are generally longer lived than store toys because the boy or girl who expends a certain amount of effort producing gives them better care4 ,home-made toys have a greater value than boughten ones because there is as much fun making them as playing with them4 ,doing something interesting1 getting satisfying results out of the work1 putting an idea into tangible form1 and having a toy to show of which it can be said1 ,i made this all myself1--these are the factors in toy-making so fascinating to boys and girls4 ,it is no less a child's nature to want to do that which is most pleasing to him1 than an adult's1 so why not encourage this wholesome activity of toy-making to which the child takes as readily as a duck takes to water8 ,it trains the mind to think clearly1 the hands to work cleverly1 replaces destructive thoughts with constructive ideas1 and1 in making the boy or girl dependent upon himself or herself for toys1 is invaluable in developing resourcefulness4 ,recognizing how easily the child's interest is attracted and held by anything of a building nature1 toy manufacturers have placed scores of so-called construction sets upon the market1 but1 though excellent as these outfits are1 the toys they form are merely assembled1 not really made by the boy or girl1 and much of the value of making is lost4 ,exactly as good models as those assembled with construction sets can be made of pick-up materials1 as chapters in this book show4 ,in fact1 some of the models in the manufacturers' instruction pamphlets--merry-go-rounds1 ,ferris wheels and swings--are almost identical with home-made models devised long ago by the author for his readers4 ,furthermore1 there are many1 very many toys in ,,home-,,made ,,toys ,,for ,,girls ,,and ,,boys which are beyond the limited possibilities of construction sets4 ,a4 ,n4 ,h4 ,,oak ,,park1 ,,illinois1 ,may #ca1 #aiae4 ,illustration ,,contents ,,chapter ,i ,,page ,,home-,,made ,,windmills #a ,the ,paper ,pinwheel--,the ,pinion-wheel ,windmill--,to mount the ,pinion-wheel--,the ,four-blade ,windmill--,to mount the ,windmill--,the ,eight-blade ,windmill--,the ,hub--,the ,eight ,blades--,the ,shaft--,the ,tail--,to pivot the ,windmill--,to operate a ,toy ,jumping-jack4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,home-,,made ,,kites #i ,how to make a ,malay--,the ,sticks--,framing the ,sticks--,covering the ,framework--,attaching the ,bridle--,flying-line--,the ,box-kite--,the ,kite ,sticks--,the ,side ,frames--,covering for the ,end ,cells--,assembling the ,kite--,attaching the ,bridle--,a ,good ,hand ,kite-reel--,a ,body ,kite-reel4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,a ,,home-,,made ,,model ,,aeroplane #ba ,accuracy in ,model ,construction--,the ,most ,successful ,type of ,model--,the ,fuselage--,the ,thrust ,bearings--,the ,bow ,hooks--,the ,main ,plane--,the ,elevator--,the ,fin--,the ,propellers--,how to prepare the ,propellers--,the ,propeller ,blank--,the ,propeller-shafts--,the ,motors--,the ,home-made ,motor-winder--,how the ,egg-beater winds the ,motors--,care in winding the ,motors--,position to take for launching a ,model4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,a ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,motor-,,boat #cc ,how operated--,the ,hull ,bottom--,the ,sides--,the ,deck--,the ,propeller--,the ,propeller-shaft--,the ,bearing ,plate--,the ,thrust ,bearing--,the ,rubber-band ,motor--,to wind the ,motor--,how to elaborate upon the ,design and ,construction4 ,,chapter ,v ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,water-,,motors #ch ,a ,varnish-can ,water-motor--,the ,case--,the ,water-motor ,wheel--,the ,eight ,paddles--,the ,wheel ,shaft--,an ,outlet--,a ,pulley-belt--,pulley-wheels--,connectin g up the ,water-motor--,another ,water-motor--,the ,water-motor ,wheel--,the ,wheel ,supports--,to mount the ,wheel--,the ,pulley ,wheel--,the ,water-motor ,case4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,a ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,railway #dg ,the ,trolley-line--,supports for ,trolley-line--,power for ,operating--,railway--,tracks--,the ,cars--,a ,gondola ,car--,a ,street ,car--,other ,cars--,operation of the ,railway--,a ,station4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,elevators #ei ,a ,toy ,elevator that appears ,magical in its ,operation--,adapting ,elevator to ,toy ,office ,building--,floors--,partitions--,the ,elevator ,car--,the ,elevator ,guides--,the ,cables--,the ,counter-balance--,the ,smoke-stack--,the ,overhead ,pulleys--,how the ,car operates--,ballast--,to make the ,car ,rise--,a ,simple ,control--,two ,levers--,an ,outdoor ,elevator--,the ,guide ,supports--,the ,car--,the ,guides--,the ,counter-balance--,the ,lifting ,cable--,the ,lowering ,cable4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,home-,,made ,,mechanical ,,toys #ga ,the ,simple ,construction of ,small ,mechanical ,toys--,a ,buzz-saw ,whirligig--,operating the ,whirligig--,the ,clog-dancer--,a ,toy ,jumping-jack--,a ,cricket-rattle--,the ,turtle ,toy--,to make the ,turtle ,crawl4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,home-,,made ,,tops #gi ,top ,spinning on the ,south ,sea ,islands--,clock ,wheel ,tops--,a ,rug-tack ,top--,a ,spool ,top--,a ,spinning ,top ,race-track--,a ,shoe-polish ,can ,top--,a ,spiral ,top--,a ,merry-go-round ,top--,how the ,top ,spins--,horses and ,riders--,a ,flag4 ,x_/ _/,x ,,chapter ,x ,,home-,,made ,,clockwork ,,toys #hh ,the ,necessary ,materials--,how to prepare the ,clockwork--,the ,merry-go-round--,the ,standard--,the ,tent--,the ,tent-poles--,the ,horses--,the ,sleighs--,the ,shafts--,the ,girl ,riders--,the ,boy ,riders--,the ,platform--,how to operate the ,merry-go-round--,other ,animals--,a ,miniature ,ferris ,wheel--,the ,standard--,the ,clockwork ,motor--,the ,station ,platform--,the ,wheel--,rims--,hubs--,spokes--,assembli ng the ,wheel--,the ,cars--,axles--,how to mount the ,wheel--,the ,platform ,steps--,the ,flying ,airships--,the ,standard--,the ,mast--,the ,cars--,increasing the ,speed of the ,clockwork--,an ,electric ,motor--,an ,automobile--,the ,frame--,the ,belt--,testing the ,machine--,the ,cardboard ,sides--,the ,wheels--,the ,mud-guards--,the ,lamps--,the ,steering-wheel--,the ,horn--,the ,brake--,the ,chauffeur--,painting the ,machine--,an ,automobile ,delivery ,wagon--,the ,cardboard ,sides--,the ,wheels--,other ,portions--,painting the ,wagon--,a ,clockwork ,railway4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,home-,,made ,,electrical ,,toys #aag ,an ,electro-magnet ,derrick--,the ,electro-magnet--,a ,home-made ,switch--,the ,derrick--,the ,windlass--,the ,hoisting ,cables--,how the ,derrick ,works--,a ,toy ,shocking ,machine--,the ,induction-coil--,the ,primary-coil--,the ,secondary-coil--,the ,handles--,an ,interrupter--,how the ,interrupter ,works--,a ,toy ,electric ,motor ,truck--,the ,wheels--,the ,upper ,shaft--,the ,belts--,the ,battery--,the ,bi-chromate ,battery ,fluid--,amalgamating a ,zinc ,pencil--,the ,seat and ,canopy-top--,the ,seat-arms--,the ,steering-wheel--,the ,levers4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,a ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,shooting ,,gallery #adj ,the ,framework--,the ,circular ,target--,the ,animal ,targets--,the ,card-shooting ,pistol--,how to number the ,targets--,how to shoot at the ,targets4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,a ,,home-,,made ,,doll-,,house #ade ,the ,building ,material--,the ,floor ,plans--,the ,partitions--,the ,elevator-shaft--,the ,side ,walls--,the ,rear ,wall--,the ,front ,wall--,the ,windows--,the ,roof--,the ,chimney--,an ,elevator--,the ,car--,the ,guide-wires--,the ,pulleys--,the ,chain ,cable--,the ,counter-balance--,the ,gable-ends--,spring-catches--,the ,stairway--,stringers--,treads and ,risers--,newel-posts--,hand-rails--,bal usters--,the ,front ,steps--,the ,window ,openings--,the ,window ,glass--,the ,front and ,rear ,doors--,the ,outside ,trimmings--,the ,interior ,woodwork--,setting the ,nail-heads--,painting4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,furnishing ,,the ,,home-,,made ,,doll-,,house #aef ,the ,walls and ,ceiling--,hardwood ,floors--,carpets--,rugs--,window-shades --,lace ,curtains--,portires--,pictures--,a ,cosey-corner--,buying ,furnishings--,making ,furniture4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,a ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,stable #afj ,dimensions of ,stable--,the ,first ,story--,the ,roof--,the ,gable-end--,the ,stall ,partitions--,the ,feed-troughs--,windows--,ladder to ,hay-loft--,feed-hoist--,the ,drop-front--,a ,stable ,door--,painting--,if you prefer a ,garage4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,a ,,home-,,made ,,doll ,,apartment ,,building #afe ,a ,new ,idea in ,doll-houses--,how the ,three ,units are arranged to form a ,three-story ,building or ,six-room ,apartment--,building ,material--,the ,room ,dimensions--,the ,first ,story ,unit--,the ,second ,story ,unit--,the ,third ,story ,unit--,the ,door and ,window ,openings--,the ,bay ,windows--,the ,joints between the ,units--,the ,roof ,construction--,the ,chimney--,the ,windows--,the ,front ,door--,the ,inside ,doorways--,the ,interior ,trim--,a ,fireplace--,lighting ,fixtures--,decorating--,painting the ,outside ,walls4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,home-,,made ,,doll ,,furniture #agd ,metal ,furniture--,miniature ,mission ,furniture--,material--,drawing the ,patterns and ,enlarging by ,squares--,the ,chairs--,the ,settee--,tables--,a ,dining-room ,table--,a ,side-board--,a ,mirror--,the ,grandfather's ,clock--,kitchen ,furniture--,the ,beds--,the ,dresser--,a ,wash-stand--,finishing4 ,,other ,,cigar-,,box ,,furniture #ahg ,a ,folding-bed--,a ,dresser--,a ,wardrobe4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,home-,,made ,,cigar-,,box ,,toys #aia ,material--,cutting--,an ,express-wagon--,a ,cart--,an ,auto ,delivery-wagon--,a ,jack-in-the-box--,a ,round-seated ,chair--,a ,round ,center-table--,a ,dining-table--,a ,square-seated ,chair--,a ,doll's ,cradle--,finishing the ,cigar-box ,wood4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,,home-,,made ,,spool ,,and ,,cardboard ,,toys #aif ,material--,a ,baby ,carriage--,a ,two-wheel ,cart--,a ,toy ,merry-go-round--,a ,teeter-board--,a ,doll ,swing--,a ,sofa--,a ,chair--,a ,square ,center-table--,a ,round ,center-table4 ,,chapter ,,xx ,a ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,mail-,,box #bje ,playing ,postman--,material for ,mail-box--,the ,sides1 ,ends1 and ,bottom of ,box--,the ,top--,the ,letter-drop--,the ,collection-drop--,reinforcing the ,corners--,covering the ,box--,a ,collection ,schedule ,card--,how to hang up the ,mail-box--,a ,mail-bag--,the ,way to play ,post-office4 ,,chapter ,,xxi ,a ,,home-,,made ,,reflectoscope #baj ,the ,working ,principle of the ,reflectoscope--,material for making ,one--,the ,lens ,opening--,ventilator ,holes--,the ,interior ,arrangement--,a ,hood for the ,ventilators--,if ,oil ,lamps are ,used--,if ,electric ,light is ,used--,how to mount the ,lens--,puttying ,cracks--,painting the ,inside of the ,box--,the ,back ,boards--,the ,picture ,holder--,how the ,lens reverses ,pictures--,adjustments4 ,,index #bae ,,list ,,of ,,half-,,tone ,,illustrations 7,in addition to #cdf text illustrations7 ,figs4 #bhg and #bhh4 ,an ,auto ,delivery-wagon built of ,cigar ,boxes 7,page #aib7 ,frontispiece ,,facing ,,page ,fig4 #dh4 ,launching the ,toy ,motor-boat #cd ,fig4 #ajh4 ,the ,buzz-saw whizzes when you twist the ,cord ,fig4 #aji4 ,the ,eccentric ,clog-dancer is a ,circus in ,himself #gb ,fig4 #aaj4 ,pull the ,string and ,jack jumps comically ,fig4 #aad4 ,whirling the ,cricket-rattle makes it ,chirp ,fig4 #aae4 ,the ,crawling ,turtle's ,shell is a ,jelly-mould #gf ,fig4 #ace4 ,a ,merry-go-round ,fig4 #acf4 ,a ,clockwork ,motor ,fig4 #acg4 ,a ,ferris ,wheel #ij ,fig4 #ach4 ,a ,flying ,airship ,fig4 #afj4 ,the ,car ,completed ,fig4 #afa4 ,the ,framework #ajd ,fig4 #bbj4 ,the ,home-made ,doll-house ,fig4 #bba4 ,interior ,view of ,doll-house #adf ,fig4 #bdc4 ,the ,most ,stylish ,apartments in ,doll ,town ,fig4 #bdd4 ,how the ,three ,stories are arranged side by #aff side to form a ,six-room ,apartment ,fig4 #bhd4 ,an ,express-wagon ,fig4 #bhe4 ,a ,cart4 #aib ,fig4 #bhi4 ,a ,jack-in-the-box ,fig4 #bij4 ,the ,skeleton of the ,jack-in-the-box ,fig4 #bia4 ,a ,round-seated ,chair ,fig4 #bib4 ,a ,round ,center-table #aid-aie ,fig4 #bic4 ,a ,dining-table ,fig4 #bid4 ,a ,square-seated ,chair ,fig4 #bie4 ,a ,doll's ,cradle ,fig4 #cbe4 ,the ,home-made ,mail-box strapped to the ,face of a ,door ,fig4 #cbf4 ,the ,home-made ,mail-box strapped to a ,chair-back #bjf ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations ,,page ,,fig4 #a4 ,the ,paper ,pinwheel is the ,simplest ,pinwheel to ,make4 #a ,,fig4 #b4 ,diagram for ,paper ,pinwheel4 #b ,,fig4 #c4 ,how the ,paper ,pinwheel is ,folded4 #b ,,fig4 #d4 ,a ,pinion-wheel ,windmill4 #c ,,fig4 #e4 ,diagram for ,pinion-wheel ,windmill4 #c ,,fig4 #f4 ,a ,four-blade ,windmill4 #d ,,fig4 #g4 ,hub4 #d ,,fig4 #h4 ,how to ,slot ,end of ,shaft for ,tail #d ,,fig4 #i4 ,an ,eight-blade ,windmill4 #e ,,fig4 #aj4 ,spool ,hub4 #f ,,fig4 #aa4 ,blades4 #f ,,fig4 #ab4 ,shaft4 #f ,,fig4 #ac4 ,tail4 #f ,,fig4 #ad4 ,how the ,windmill may be ,rigged up to ,operate a ,toy ,jumping-jack4 #g ,,fig4 #ae4 ,how the ,jumping-jack is ,supported4 #h ,,fig4 #af4 ,spool ,hub4 #h ,,fig4 #ag4 ,a ,malay ,tailless ,kite4 #i ,,fig4 #ah4 ,completed ,malay ,kite with ,belly-band ,attached4 #aj ,,fig4 #ai4 ,framework of ,malay ,kite4 #aa ,,fig4 #bj4 ,detail of ,vertical ,stick4 #ab ,,fig4 #ba4 ,detail of ,bow-,stick4 #ab ,,fig4 #bb4 ,detail of ,end of ,bow-,stick4 #ab ,,fig4 #bc4 ,raising the ,box-,kite4 #ac ,,fig4 #bd4 ,the ,box-,kite4 #ad ,,fig4 #be4 ,make ,two ,side ,frames like this4 #ad ,,fig4 #bf4 ,cross-section of the ,box-,kite4 #ae ,,fig4 #bg4 ,detail of ,diagonal ,braces4 #af ,,fig4 #bh4 ,a ,good ,hand ,kite-reel4 #ag ,,figs4 #bi and #cj4 ,details of ,hand ,kite-reel4 #ah ,,fig4 #ca4 ,a ,body ,kite-reel4 #ai ,,fig4 #cb4 ,detail of ,axle ,support4 #ai ,,fig4 #cc4 ,detail of ,crank4 #ai ,,fig4 #cd4 ,launching a ,model ,aeroplane4 #bb ,,fig4 #ce4 ,plan4 #bc ,,fig4 #cf4 ,side ,elevation 7without ,rubber ,motor74 #bc ,,fig4 #cg4 ,detail of ,fuselage and ,motor of the ,wells ,model4 #bd ,,fig4 #ch4 ,detail of ,thrust ,bearing1 ,propeller-shaft1 and ,connections4 #bd ,,fig4 #ci4 ,detail of ,bow ,hook and how ,rubber ,motor is ,connected to it4 #bd ,,fig4 #dj4 ,detail of the ,main ,plane ,framework of the ,wells ,model4 #bf ,,fig4 #da4 ,detail of the ,elevator ,framework4 #bf ,,fig4 #db4 ,detail of ,fin4 #bf ,,fig4 #dc4 ,the ,wells ,model ,propeller4 #bg ,,fig4 #dd4 ,how to ,prepare a #i-;inch ,propeller4 #bg ,,fig4 #de4 ,a ,home-made ,motor ,winder4 #cj ,,fig4 #df4 ,the ,kind of ,egg-beater to ,use4 #cj ,,fig4 #dg4 ,how the ,motors are ,connected to ,winder for ,winding4 #cj ,,fig4 #dh4 ,,launching ,,the ,,toy ,,motor-,,boat4 #cd ,,fig4 #di4 ,the ,completed ,motor-boat4 #cc ,,fig4 #ej4 ,stern1 with ,motor in ,place4 #cc ,,fig4 #ea4 ,diagram of ,hull4 #cd ,,figs4 #eb and #ec4 ,how the ,hull1 ,sides1 ,stern and ,deck ,pieces are ,assembled #cd ,,fig4 #ed4 ,longitudinal ,section of ,assembled ,motor-boat4 #cf ,,figs4 #ee-ei4 ,details of ,propeller4 #cf ,,fig4 #fj4 ,rubber-band ,motor #cf ,,fig4 #fa4 ,a ,varnish-can ,water-motor in ,operation4 #ch ,,fig4 #fb4 ,the ,completed ,varnish-can ,water-motor4 #ci ,,figs4 #fc and #fd4 ,sections through ,water-motor ,case4 #dj ,,fig4 #fe4 ,the ,completed ,water-motor ,wheel4 #da ,,figs4 #ff and #fg4 ,details of ,water-motor ,wheel4 #da ,,figs4 #fh-fi4 ,how to ,make a ,water-tight ,connection between ,faucet and ,water-motor4 #db ,,fig4 #gj4 ,a ,small ,water-motor that can be ,operated in a ,wash-basin4 #dc ,,fig4 #ga4 ,the ,water-motor ,wheel4 #dc ,,figs4 #gb and #gc4 ,details of ,water-motor ,wheel4 #dd ,,fig4 #gd4 ,support for ,water-motor ,wheel4 #de ,,fig4 #ge4 ,upright4 #dg ,,fig4 #gf4 ,the ,toy ,railway in ,operation4 #dh ,,fig4 #gg4 ,support for ,trolley-line4 #dh ,,fig4 #gh4 ,the ,tracks4 #ej ,,fig4 #gi4 ,a ,top ,view of ,car ,truck4 #ej ,,fig4 #hj4 ,spool ,wheels4 #ea ,,fig4 #ha4 ,the ,completed ,car ,truck4 #ea ,,fig4 #hb4 #ea ,,fig4 #hc4 ,a ,gondola ,car4 #eb ,,fig4 #hd4 ,side ,view4 #ec ,,fig4 #he4 ,end ,view4 #ec ,,figs4 #hf-id4 ,details of ,toy ,street ,car4 #ee ,,fig4 #ie4 ,the ,railway ,depot4 #eg ,,fig4 #if4 ,a ,toy ,office ,building with ,elevator4 #fj ,,fig4 #ig4 ,section through ,elevator ,shaft4 #fb ,,fig4 #ih4 ,floors4 #fc ,,fig4 #ii4 ,partitions4 #fc ,,fig4 #ajj4 ,front ,view of ,elevator ,shaft4 #fd ,,figs4 #aja4 and #ajb4 ,elevator ,car ,details4 #fd ,,fig4 #ajc4 ,detail of ,brake and ,controlling ,levers4 #fe ,,fig4 #ajd4 ,an ,outdoor ,elevator4 #ff ,,fig4 #aje4 ,supports for ,elevator ,guides and ,cables4 #fg ,,fig4 #ajf4 ,elevator ,car4 #fi ,,fig4 #ajg4 ,counter-balance4 #fi ,,fig4 #ajh4 ,the ,buzz-saw whizzes when you ,twist the ,cord4 #gb ,,fig4 #aji4 ,the eccentric ,clog-dancer is a ,circus in himself4 #gb ,,fig4 #aaj4 ,pull the ,string and ,jack jumps comically4 #gb ,,fig4 #aaa4 ,detail of ,buzz-saw ,whirligig shown in ,fig4 #ajh4 #gb ,,fig4 #aab4 ,details of ,body of the ,clog-dancer shown in ,fig4 #aji4 #gc ,,fig4 #aac4 ,details of ,body of the ,jumping-jack shown in ,fig4 #aaj4 #gd ,,fig4 #aad4 ,whirling the ,cricket-rattle makes it chirp4 #gf ,,fig4 #aae4 ,the crawling ,turtle's ,shell is a ,jelly ,mould4 #gf ,,fig4 #aaf4 ,details of the ,noisy ,cricket-rattle shown ,fig4 #aad4 #gf ,,fig4 #aag4 ,how ,head1 ,feet1 and ,tail are ,attached to a ,jelly ,mould to ,make the ,turtle shown in ,fig4 #aae4 #gg ,,fig4 #aah4 ,the ,spool ,wheels and the ,rubber-bands which ,propel them4 #gg ,,figs4 #aai and #abj4 ,clock ,wheel ,tops4 #hj ,,fig4 #aba4 ,upholstering ,tack ,top4 #hj ,,fig4 #abb4 ,how to ,hold ,upholstering ,tack for ,spinning4 #hj ,,figs4 #abc and #abd4 ,details of ,spool ,top4 #hj ,,fig4 #abe4 ,a ,shoe-polish ,can ,top4 #ha ,,figs4 #abf-abh4 ,details of ,shoe-polish ,can ,top4 #hb ,,fig4 #abi4 ,a ,spinning ,top ,race-track4 #hc ,,fig4 #acj4 ,a ,spiral ,top4 #hd ,,fig4 #aca4 ,diagram of ,spiral for ,spiral ,top4 #hd ,,fig4 #acb4 ,a ,merry-go-round ,top4 #he ,,fig4 #acc4 ,detail of ,merry-go-round ,top4 #hf ,,fig4 #acd4 ,how ,horses are ,mounted upon ,top ,platform4 #hf ,,fig4 #ace4 ,a ,merry-go-round4 #ij ,,fig4 #acf4 ,a ,,clockwork ,,motor4 #ij ,,fig4 #acg4 ,a ,ferris ,wheel4 #ij ,,fig4 #ach4 ,the ,flying ,airships4 #ij ,,fig4 #aci4 ,how the ,clockwork ,motor is ,fastened to the ,cigar-box ,cover4 7,this ,box has been cut down to the ,proper ,length for the ,ferris ,wheel47 #hi ,,fig4 #adj4 ,plan of ,top of ,standard for ,merry-go-round4 #ia ,,fig4 #ada4 ,pattern for ,tent of ,merry-go-round4 #ia ,,fig4 #adb4 ,the ,tent ready to be ,fastened upon a ,tent-pole4 #ia ,,fig4 #adc4 ,full-size ,pattern for the ,horses of the ,merry-go-round4 #ib ,,fig4 #add4 ,pattern for the ,merry-go-round ,sleighs4 #ic ,,fig4 #ade4 ,a ,completed ,sleigh showing ,attachment to ,shaft4 #id ,,fig4 #adf4 ,full-size ,pattern for the ,girl ,riders4 #ie ,,fig4 #adg4 ,full-size ,pattern for the ,boy ,riders4 #ie ,,fig4 #adh4 ,how the ,second ,leg of the ,boy is ,attached4 #ie ,,fig4 #adi4 ,standard for the ,ferris ,wheel4 #ig ,,fig4 #aej4 ,make ,two ,supports like this for the ,ferris ,wheel ,standard4 #ih ,,figs4 #aea and #aeb4 ,how a ,spool is ,fastened to the ,top of the ,support for a ,hub4 #ih ,,fig4 #aec4 ,how to ,lay out the ,cardboard ,rims of the ,ferris ,wheel4 #ii ,,fig4 #aed4 ,the ,spokes ,fitted into the ,spool ,hub4 #ii ,,fig4 #aee4 ,the ,rim ,slipped into the ,end of the ,spokes4 #ii ,,fig4 #aef4 ,a ,spool ,hub for the ,wheel4 #ii ,,fig4 #aeg4 ,how the ,spokes1 ,rims1 and ,axles are ,fastened ,together4 #ii ,,fig4 #aeh4 ,pattern for the ,ferris ,wheel ,cars4 #ajj ,,fig4 #aei4 ,a ,completed ,car for the ,ferris ,wheel4 #aja ,,fig4 #afj4 ,the ,car completed4 #ajd ,,fig4 #afa4 ,the ,framework4 #ajd ,,fig4 #afb4 ,top ,view of ,wooden ,frame4 #aje ,,figs4 #afc-agj4 ,patterns for the ,automobile ,touring-car4 #ajh ,,fig4 #aga4 ,chauffeur4 #aji ,,fig4 #agb4 ,cardboard ,side of ,automobile4 #aji ,,fig4 #agc4 ,the ,hood4 #aaj ,,fig4 #agd4 ,the ,steering-wheel4 #aaa ,,fig4 #age4 ,an ,automobile ,delivery ,wagon4 #aac ,,fig4 #agf4 ,an ,electro-,magnet ,derrick4 #aah ,,figs4 #agg-agi4 ,the ,electro-,magnet4 #aai ,,fig4 #ahj4 ,how the ,electro-,magnet is ,connected up4 #abj ,,fig4 #aha4 ,a ,home-made ,switch4 #aba ,,fig4 #ahb4 ,details of ,switch4 #aba ,,fig4 #ahc4 ,detail of ,mast4 #abb ,,fig4 #ahd4 ,detail of ,pulley4 #abb ,,fig4 #ahe4 ,detail of ,boom4 #abb ,,fig4 #ahf4 ,detail of ,derrick ,windlass4 #abc ,,fig4 #ahg4 ,detail of the ,toy ,shocking ,machine4 #abe ,,figs4 #ahh-aia4 ,details of ,induction-,coil4 #abf ,,figs4 #aib and #aic4 ,details of ,shocking-coil ,handles4 #abi ,,fig4 #aid4 ,interrupter for ,shocking-coil4 #abi ,,figs4 #aie-aih4 ,details of ,interrupter4 #aca ,,fig4 #aii4 ,a ,toy ,electric ,motor ,truck4 #acb ,,fig4 #bjj4 ,top view of ,electric ,motor ,truck4 #acc ,,figs4 #bja-bjc4 ,details of ,axle and ,belt ,shaft4 #acd ,,fig4 #bjd4 ,two ,home-made ,battery ,cells ,connected in ,series4 #ace ,,fig4 #bje4 ,a ,single ,cell4 #acf ,,figs4 #bjf and #bjg4 ,details of ,zinc and ,carbon4 #acf ,,fig4 #bjh4 ,plan of ,motor ,truck ,bottom4 #acg ,,fig4 #bji4 ,section through ,bottom4 #acg ,,fig4 #baj4 ,details of ,seat and ,canopy-top4 #ach ,,fig4 #baa4 ,pattern of ,canopy-top4 #aci ,,fig4 #bab4 ,the ,completed ,toy ,shooting ,gallery4 #adj ,,fig4 #bac4 ,the ,box ,framework4 #ada ,,figs4 #bad-bae4 ,details of ,targets4 #adb ,,fig4 #baf4 ,the ,card-shooting ,pistol4 #adc ,,figs4 #bag-bai4 ,detail of ,card-shooting ,pistol4 #add ,,fig4 #bbj4 ,the ,home-made ,doll-house4 #adf ,,fig4 #bba4 ,interior ,view of ,doll-house4 #adf ,,figs4 #bbb-bbf4 ,plans of ,doll-house and ,patterns for ,partitions4 #adg ,,fig4 #bbg4 ,the ,chimney4 #adh ,,fig4 #bbh4 ,front ,view of ,elevator-shaft and ,stairs4 #adi ,,figs4 #bbi-bcb4 ,details of the ,elevator4 #adi ,,fig4 #bcc4 ,the ,front ,gable-,end4 #aeb ,,figs4 #bcd-bcg4 ,details of ,stairs4 #aec ,,fig4 #bch4 ,exterior of ,stable4 #afj ,,fig4 #bci4 ,interior of ,stable4 #afa ,,fig4 #bdj4 ,front ,gable-,end4 #afb ,,fig4 #bda4 ,stall ,partitions4 #afb ,,fig4 #bdb4 ,ladder to ,hay-loft4 #afc ,,fig4 #bdc4 ,the most stylish ,apartments in ,doll ,town4 #aff ,,fig4 #bdd4 ,how the three ,stories are arranged ,side by ,side to form a ,six-room ,apartment4 #aff ,,fig4 #bde4 ,plan of the ,six-,room ,doll ,apartment4 #aff ,,fig4 #bdf4 ,the ,first ,story ,unit and ,diagram of ,partitions4 #afg ,,fig4 #bdg4 ,the ,second ,story ,unit and ,diagram of ,partitions4 #afg ,,fig4 #bdh4 ,the ,third ,story ,unit and ,diagram of ,partitions4 #afg ,,fig4 #bdi4 ,in ,cutting the ,opening for the ,bay ,windows1 leave a ,narrow ,strip over the ,opening1 as above1 for a ,beam4 #afh ,,figs4 #bej and #bea4 ,how the ,removable ,roof is ,constructed4 #afi ,,fig4 #beb4 ,how the ,chimney and ,chimney ,cap are ,made4 #afi ,,fig4 #bec4 ,the ,living-,room ,mantel4 #aga ,,fig4 #bed4 ,details of ,mantel4 #aga ,,figs4 #bee-beh4 ,two ,lighting ,fixtures and how to ,make ,them4 #agb ,,figs4 #bei-bff4 ,patterns for ,furniture4 #agg ,,fig4 #bfg4 ,chairs4 #agh ,,fig4 #bfh4 ,chairs4 #agh ,,fig4 #bfi4 ,a ,settee4 #agi ,,fig4 #bgj4 ,a ,table4 #agi ,,fig4 #bga4 ,another ,design4 #ahj ,,fig4 #bgb4 ,a ,side-board4 #aha ,,fig4 #bgc4 ,a ,mirror4 #ahb ,,fig4 #bgd4 ,a ,grandfather's ,clock4 #ahc ,,fig4 #bge4 ,a ,bed4 #ahd ,,fig4 #bgf4 ,another ,design4 #ahd ,,fig4 #bgg4 ,a ,dresser4 #ahe ,,fig4 #bgh4 ,a ,wash-stand4 #ahf ,,fig4 #bgi4 ,a ,doll's ,folding-bed4 #ahg ,,fig4 #bhj4 ,folding-bed 7open74 #ahh ,,fig4 #bha4 ,foot4 #ahh ,,fig4 #bhb4 ,dresser ,completed4 #ahi ,,fig4 #bhc4 ,a ,doll's ,dresser4 #ahi ,,fig4 #bhf4 ,cross-section of the ,express-wagon4 #aib ,,fig4 #bhd4 ,,an ,,express-,,wagon4 #aib ,,fig4 #bhe4 ,a ,,cart4 #aib ,,fig4 #bhf4 ,cross-section of the ,express-wagon4 #aib ,,figs4 #bhg and #bhh4 ,an ,auto ,delivery-wagon built of ,cigar-boxes4 ,frontispiece ,,fig4 #bhi4 ,a ,jack-in-the-box4 #aid ,,fig4 #bij4 ,the ,skeleton of the ,jack-in-the-,box4 #aid ,,fig4 #bia4 ,a round-seated ,chair4 #aid ,,fig4 #bib4 ,a round ,center-table4 #aid ,,fig4 #bic4 ,a ,dining-table4 #aid ,,fig4 #bid4 ,a square-seated ,chair4 #aid ,,fig4 #bie4 ,a ,doll's ,cradle4 #aid ,,fig4 #bif4 ,pedestal of ,center-table4 #aid ,,fig4 #big4 ,leg of ,dining-table4 #aid ,,fig4 #bih4 ,pattern for ,cradle ,rockers4 #aie ,,fig4 #bii4 ,doll ,carriage4 #aif ,,figs4 #cjj-cjb4 ,details of ,doll ,carriage4 #aig ,,fig4 #cjc4 ,baby ,carriage ,hood4 #aih ,,fig4 #cjd4 ,diagram of ,hood4 #aih ,,fig4 #cje4 ,carriage ,handles4 #aih ,,fig4 #cjf4 ,the ,two-wheel ,cart4 #aii ,,fig4 #cjg-cji4 ,details of ,cart4 #aii ,,fig4 #caj4 ,merry-go-round4 #bjj ,,fig4 #caa4 ,teeter4 #bjj ,,fig4 #cab4 ,cardboard ,strip for ,merry-go-round and ,teeter4 #bjj ,,fig4 #cac4 ,boy and ,girl ,riders for ,merry-go-round and ,teeter4 #bjj ,,fig4 #cad4 ,doll ,swing4 #bja ,,fig4 #cae4 ,detail of ,swing4 #bja ,,figs4 #caf and #cag4 ,details of ,swing ,seat4 #bjb ,,fig4 #cah4 ,sofa4 #bjb ,,figs4 #cai-cba4 ,details of ,sofa4 #bjc ,,fig4 #cbb4 ,chair4 #bjc ,,fig4 #cbc4 ,square ,center-table4 #bjc ,,fig4 #cbd4 ,round ,center-table4 #bjc ,,fig4 #cbe4 ,the home-made ,mail-box strapped to the ,face of a ,door4 #bjf ,,fig4 #cbf4 ,the home-made ,mail-box strapped to a ,chair ,back,k4 #bjf ,,fig4 #cbg4 ,diagram for ,making ,sides1 ,ends1 and ,bottom of ,mail-box4 #bjf ,,fig4 #cbh4 ,diagram for ,making ,top4 #bjf ,,fig4 #cbi4 ,diagram for ,making ,end ,pieces of ,letter-,drop4 #bjf ,,fig4 #ccj4 ,diagram for ,making ,front ,piece of ,letter-,drop4 #bjf ,,fig4 #cca4 ,the ,sides1 ,ends1 and ,bottom folded ready to be put ,together4 #bjg ,,fig4 #ccb4 ,top1 showing how ,portion is ,bent up for ,back of ,letter-,drop4 #bjg ,,fig4 #ccc4 ,ends of ,letter-,drop4 #bjg ,,fig4 #ccd4 ,front of ,letter-,drop4 #bjg ,,fig4 #cce4 ,top1 with ,letter-,drop ,completed4 #bjg ,,fig4 #ccf4 ,diagram for ,making ,collection-drop4 #bjh ,,fig4 #ccg4 ,how the ,collection-drop is ,folded4 #bjh ,,fig4 #cch4 ,the ,collection-drop ,hinged in ,place4 #bjh ,,fig4 #cci4 ,the ,complete ,reflectoscope4 #baj ,,fig4 #cdj4 ,detail of ,ventilator ,top4 #baj ,,fig4 #cda4 ,plan of ,reflectoscope4 #baa ,,fig4 #cdb4 ,cross-section of ,reflectoscope #baa ,,figs4 #cdc and #cdd4 ,details of ,lens ,mounting #bac ,,fig4 #cde4 ,view of ,back of ,reflectoscope #bac ,,fig4 #cdf4 ,detail of ,post ,card ,holder4 #bac ,,home-,,made ,,toys ,,for ,,girls ,,and ,,boys ,,home-,,made ,,toys ,illustration ,,for ,,girls ,,and ,,boys ,illustration ,,chapter ,i ,,home-,,made ,,windmills ,no mechanical toy is more interesting to make1 nor more interesting to watch in operation1 than a miniature windmill4 ,it is a very simple toy to construct1 and the material for making one can usually be found at hand1 which are two reasons why nearly every boy and girl at one time or another builds one4 ,the ,paper ,pinwheel shown in ,fig4 #a is one of the best whirlers ever devised4 ,a slight forward thrust of the stick handle upon which it is mounted starts it in motion1 and when you run with the stick extended in front of you it whirls at a merry speed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4--,the ,paper ,pinwheel is the ,simplest ,pinwheel to ,make4 ,a piece of paper #h or #aj inches square is needed for the pinwheel4 ,fold this piece of paper diagonally from corner to corner1 both ways4 ,then open the paper1 and with a pair of scissors cut along the diagonal creases1 from the corners to within #a_/b inch of the center 7,fig4 #b74 ,next1 fold corners ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 and ,d over to the center1 as shown in ,fig4 #c1 run a pin through the corners and through the center of the sheet of paper1 drive the point of this pin into the end of the stick handle1 and the pinwheel will be completed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #b4--;,diagram for ,paper ,pinwheel4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #c4--;,how the ,paper ,pinwheel is ,folded4 ,the ,pinion-wheel ,windmill in ,fig4 #d may be made of cardboard or tin4 ,a circular piece #aj or #ab inches in diameter is required4 ,after marking out the outer edge with a compass1 describe an inner circle about #a inch inside of it2 then draw two lines through the center at right angles to each other1 and another pair at an angle of #de degrees to these4 ,these lines are shown by the heavy radial lines in ,fig4 #e4 ,one-half inch from each of these lines draw a parallel line1 as indicated by dotted lines in ,fig4 #e4 ,the next thing to do is to cut out the disk1 and cut along the heavy lines just as far as the lines are shown in the diagram 7,fig4 #e71 and then to bend up the blades thus separated1 to an angle of about #de degrees1 bending on the second set of radial lines 7dotted lines in ,fig4 #e74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #d4--;,a ,pinion-wheel ,windmill4 ,you had better make a cardboard pinion-wheel first1 then a tin one afterwards1 as cardboard is so much easier to cut4 ,a pair of heavy shears will be necessary for cutting a tin wheel1 and a cold chisel for separating the edges of the blades4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #e4--;,diagram for ,pinion-wheel ,windmill4 ,to ,mount the ,pinion-wheel drive a long nail through the center1 through the hole in a spool1 and into the end of a stick4 ,then nail the stick to a post or a fence top4 ,the ,four-blade ,windmill shown in ,fig4 #f has a hub #d inches in diameter and #a inch thick 7,fig4 #g74 ,this should be cut out of hard wood4 ,draw two lines across one face1 through the center1 and at right angles to each other4 ,then carry these lines across the edge of the block1 not at right angles to the sides1 but at an angle of #de degrees4 ,saw along these lines to a depth of #a-a_/d inches4 ,the ends of the windmill blades are to fit in these slots4 ,cut the blades of equal size1 #i inches long1 #e inches wide on the wide edge1 and #a-a_/b inches wide on the narrow edge1 and fasten them in the slots with nails4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #f4--;,a ,four-blade ,windmill4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #g4--;,hub4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #h4--;,how to ,slot ,end of ,shaft for ,tail4 ,with the blades in position1 pivot the hub to the end of the windmill shaft1 a stick #bj inches long 7,fig4 #f74 ,the end opposite to that to which the hub is pivoted is whittled round1 and slotted with a saw to receive a tail 7,fig4 #h74 ,the tail may be of the same size as the blades1 though it is shown shorter in the illustration4 ,mount the ,windmill upon a post1 pivoting its shaft at the balancing center with a nail or screw4 ,bore a hole large enough so the shaft will turn freely upon the pivot1 and the windmill will thus keep headed into the wind4 ,the ,eight-blade ,windmill in ,fig4 #i has a spool hub 7,fig4 #aj71 and blades made of cigar-box wood1 shingles1 tin1 or cardboard 7,fig4 #aa74 ,you will see by ,figs4 #aj and #aa that the blades are nailed to the side of short spoke sticks1 and the sticks are driven into holes bored in the spool hub4 ,the hub turns on the rounded end of the shaft stick 7,fig4 #ab71 and the square end of this shaft is slotted to receive the fan-shaped tail 7,figs4 #ab and #ac74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #i4--;,an ,eight-blade ,windmill4 ,for the ,hub use a large ribbon-spool4 ,you can get one at any drygoods store4 ,locate eight holes around the center of the spool at equal distances from one another1 and bore these with a gimlet or bit1 or cut them with the small blade of your jack-knife4 ,cut the ,eight ,blades #f inches long1 #e inches wide on their wide edge1 and #a-a_/b inches wide on their narrow edge4 ,prepare the hub sticks about #a_/b inch by #c_/d inch by #d-a_/b inches in size1 and whittle one end pointed to fit in the hub 7,fig4 #aa74 ,fasten the blades to the spokes with nails long enough to drive through the spokes and clinch on the under side4 ,glue the spokes in the hub holes1 turning them so the blades will stand at about the angle shown4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aj4--,spool ,hub4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aa4--;,blades4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ab4--,shaft4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ac4--,tail4 ,the ,shaft should be made of a hard wood stick about #c_/d inch by #a-a_/b inches by #cj inches in size4 ,cut the round end small enough so the hub will turn freely on it1 and punch a small hole through it so a brad may be driven through to hold the hub in place4 ,cut the slot in the square end with a saw4 ,cut the ,tail of the shape shown in ,fig4 #ac4 ,pivot the ,windmill upon the top of a post support1 in the same manner as directed for the other windmills4 ,figure #ad shows how the toy windmill may be rigged up ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ad4--;,how the ,windmill may be ,rigged up to ,operate a ,toy ,jumping-jack4 ,to ,operate a ,toy ,jumping-jack1 by supporting the jumping-jack on a bracket1 and connecting its string to the hub of the windmill4 ,you can make your jumping-jack like the one in ,fig4 #aaj1 the details of which are shown in ,fig4 #aac4 ,cut the upright of the bracket 7,a1 ,figs4 #ad and #ae7 #ad inches long1 and the crosspiece 7,b7 #g inches long4 ,nail ,a to ,b1 and nail the jumping-jack at its center to the end of ,b 7,fig4 #ae74 ,fasten the triangular block 7,c7 to the lower end of ,a1 and then nail both ,a and ,c to the edge of the shaft at a point that will bring the string of the jumping-jack a trifle beyond the windmill blades4 ,fasten a small stick with a brad driven in one end1 in notches cut in the hub's flanges 7,fig4 #af71 and connect the brad and ,jack's string with a piece of wire or strong string4 ,then as the windmill revolves it will operate the toy in the manner indicated in ,figs4 #ad and #ae4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ae4--;,how the ,jumping-jack is ,supported4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #af4--,spool ,hub4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,home-,,made ,,kites ,the ,malay tailless kite is probably the most practical kind ever invented4 ,it will fly in a wind that the tail variety could not withstand1 and it will fly in a breeze too light to carry up most other forms of kites4 ,it is also a strong pulling kite1 and can be used for sending aloft lanterns and flags4 ,for the purpose of lifting1 the pulling strength can be doubled by flying two ,malays in tandem4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ag4--;,a ,malay ,tailless ,kite4 ,how to ,make a ,malay4 ,figure #ag shows a ,malay kite in flight1 ,fig4 #ah a detail of the completed kite1 ,fig4 #ai the completed framework1 and ,figs4 #bj1 #ba1 and #bb the details for preparing the frame sticks4 ,the ,sticks4 ,this kite has a vertical stick and a bow-stick1 each of which should be #dj inches long1 about #c_/d inch wide1 and #c_/h inch thick1 for a kite of medium size4 ,in the cutting of the sticks lies half the secret of making a kite that will fly successfully4 ,drive a small nail or large tack into each end of the two sticks1 to fasten the framing-string to 7,figs4 #bj and #ba71 and notch the side edges of the bow-stick near each end for the attachment of the bow-string 7,figs4 #ba and #bb74 ,the amount to bend the bow-stick is important4 ,for a kite with a bow #dj inches long the distance between the string and stick should be #f inches 7,fig4 #ba74 ,use a strong twine for the bow-string1 and tie it securely to the notched ends4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ah4--;,completed ,malay ,kite with ,belly-band ,attached4 ,framing the ,sticks4 ,fasten the bow-stick at its exact center to the vertical stick1 placing it #d inches down from the top of the vertical stick1 as indicated in ,fig4 #ai4 ,drive a couple of brads through the two sticks to hold them together1 and then reinforce the connection by wrapping the joint with strong linen thread1 crossing the thread in the manner shown4 ,when the two sticks have been joined1 connect their ends with the framing-string4 ,stretch this string from stick to stick1 and tie securely to the end nails4 ,instead of the end nails1 the sticks may be notched to receive the framing-string1 but the nails are more satisfactory because the string can be tied fast to them and will not slip4 ,covering the ,framework4 ,the strong light-weight brown wrapping-paper now so generally used makes an excellent covering for the framework4 ,a few sheets can be purchased at a near-by store for the purpose4 ,you will likely have to paste together two or more sheets to make one large enough4 ,the paper should be placed on the outer face of the bow-stick1 and should be allowed a little fullness instead of being stretched tight as on hexagonal tail kites4 ,lap the edges of the paper over the framing-string in the ordinary way of covering a kite4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ai4--;,framework of ,malay ,kite4 ,attach the ,bridle at the intersection of the bow-stick and vertical stick1 and at the lower end of the vertical stick 7,fig4 #ah71 and make it of the right length so when held over to one side it will reach to the end of the bow1 as indicated in ,fig4 #ah4 ,tie the flying line securely at the point ,a 7,fig4 #ah72 then the kite will be ready for its maiden flight4 ,flying-,line4 ,the kind of cord which a mason uses for his plumb-lines is splendid for flying the ,malay kite4 ,if you cannot get some balls of this1 be certain that what you do get can be relied upon1 because it is provoking to lose a kite which you have taken a great deal of pains in making1 through the breaking of the flying line4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bj4--;,detail of ,vertical ,stick4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ba4--;,detail of ,bow-,stick4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bb4--;,detail of ,end of ,bow-,stick4 ,the ,box-,kite4 ,of the more pretentious kites1 none is as popular as the rectangular box-kite4 ,box-kites may be purchased ready-made in a number of sizes1 but they are not cheap1 and it will pay any boy to take the time necessary to make one4 ,while their construction requires considerable more work than the single-plane type of kite1 it is not difficult4 ,figures #bc and #bd show a kite of scientifically developed proportions4 ,pine1 spruce1 and whitewood are the best materials for ,the ,kite ,sticks1 though any strong1 light-weight wood of straight grain may be used if easier to obtain4 ,if you live near a lumber yard or planing-mill1 possibly you can get strips of just the size you require from the waste heap1 for the mere asking1 or for a few cents get them ripped out of a board4 ,if not1 you will find it easy enough to cut them yourself with a sharp rip-saw4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bc4--,raising the ,box-,kite4 ,the ,side ,frames4 ,cut the four horizontal sticks #c_/h inch thick and #c_/h inch wide1 by #cf inches long 7,a1 ,fig4 #be71 and the four upright connecting sticks 7,b1 ,fig4 #be7 #a_/d inch thick1 #a_/b inch wide1 and #aj inches long4 ,tack the upright sticks to the horizontal ones #f inches from the ends of the latter1 as shown in ,fig4 #be1 using slender brads for the purpose1 and clinching the projecting ends4 ,in fastening these sticks1 be careful to set sticks ,b at right angles to sticks ,a4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bd4--,the ,box-,kite4 ,after fastening together the side-frame sticks as shown in ,fig4 #be1 lay them aside until you have prepared the cross-section of the kite4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #be4--,make ,two ,side ,frames like this4 ,the ,covering for the ,end ,cells4 ,a light-weight muslin or tough paper should be used for this material4 ,cheese-cloth will do if you give it a coat of thin varnish to fill up the pores and make it air-tight1 after it has been put on4 ,the light-weight brown wrapping-paper now so commonly used is good covering material4 ,the cell bands for the kite illustrated should be #aj inches wide and #e feet #i inches long4 ,if of cloth1 they should be hemmed along each edge to prevent raveling and to make a firm edge4 ,if of paper1 the edges should be folded over a light framing-cord and pasted4 ,sew together the ends of the cloth bands1 or paste the ends of the paper bands1 lapping them so the measurement around the inside will be exactly #e feet #h inches1 the proper measurement around the sticks of the finished kite4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bf4--;,cross-section of the ,box-,kite4 ,assembling the ,kite4 ,slip the bands over the side frames1 spread the frames to their fullest extent1 and hold them in this position by means of sticks sprung in temporarily between upright sticks ,b4 ,then measure the proper length for the diagonal braces ,c 7,fig4 #bf74 ,these sticks should be notched at their ends to fit over the sticks ,a1 as shown in ,fig4 #bg1 and they should be a trifle long so they will be slightly bow-shaped when put in place4 ,in this way the frames will keep the cloth or paper bands stretched tight4 ,the notched ends of the diagonals should be lashed with thread to keep them from splitting4 ,lashings of thread around the frame sticks ,a1 as shown in ,figs4 #be and #bg1 will keep the ends of the braces from slipping away from the uprights ,b1 which is the proper position for them4 ,bind the braces together at their centers with thread1 as shown in ,figs4 #bd and #bf4 ,coat the lashings with glue after winding them1 and the thread will hold its position better4 ,the cloth or paper bands should be fastened to each horizontal frame stick with two tacks placed near the edges of the bands4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bg4--;,detail of ,diagonal ,braces4 ,there are several methods of ,attaching the ,bridle1 but that shown in ,fig4 #bd is generally considered the most satisfactory4 ,of course1 the kite is flown other side up1 with the bridle underneath4 ,the three-point attachment has cords fastened at the two outer corners of one cell1 and a third cord to the center of the outer edge of the other cell2 and the four-point attachment has cords attached at the four outer corners of the kite4 ,the ends of the bridle should be brought together and tied at a distance of about #c feet from the kite4 ,it is a good plan to connect the ends to a fancy-work ring4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4--;,a ,good ,hand ,kite-reel4 ,a ,good ,hand ,kite-reel that can be held in one hand and operated by the other is shown in ,fig4 #bh4 ,get a #a_/b-lb4 size baking-powder can for the winding-spool1 locate the center of the cover and bottom end1 and with a can-opener cut a hole #a inch in diameter through each 7,fig4 #bi74 ,then cut two wooden disks #e inches in diameter for the spool flanges4 ,these may be cut out of thin wood4 ,if you do not wish to take the trouble to cut them round1 just saw off the four corners diagonally1 making the pieces octagonal4 ,bore a #a-;inch hole through the center of each piece4 ,tack the can cover to the exact center of one disk1 as shown in ,fig4 #cj1 and the can to the exact center of the other4 ,then fit the cover on the can1 and glue a strip of cloth or heavy paper around the joint to keep the cover from working off1 and the spool will be completed4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bi and #cj4--;,details of ,hand ,kite-reel4 ,the axle upon which the spool turns is a piece of broom-handle #aj inches or so in length 7,fig4 #cj74 ,bore two holes through it in the positions shown1 for pins to keep the spool in its proper place4 ,wooden pegs can be cut for pins4 ,for a winding handle1 pivot a spool on the right-hand disk by means of a nail or screw4 ,the inner flange of the spool handle may be cut off as shown in ,fig4 #bh4 ,both hands are frequently needed to haul in string quickly enough to bring a kite around into the wind1 or to handle it when it pulls very strong1 and then there is nothing to do but drop the hand reel upon the ground1 unless you have an assistant to give it to4 ,this is where the advantage of ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ca4--;,a ,body ,kite-reel4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cb4--;,detail of ,axle ,support4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cc4--;,detail of ,crank4 ,a ,body ,kite-reel comes in4 ,with it strapped about the waist1 it will go wherever you go1 and always be within easy reach4 ,figure #ca shows one simple to make4 ,the spool of this is made similar to that of the hand reel shown in ,fig4 #bh4 ,if1 however1 you wish a larger winding-spool1 you can use a larger can than the baking-powder can--a tomato can or syrup can--and increase the diameter of the wooden flanges accordingly4 ,instead of the spool turning upon the broom-handle axle1 the axle turns with the spool1 so the spool must be fastened to the axle4 ,the axle supports ,a 7,figs4 #ca and #cb7 should be about #g inches long1 #d inches wide at the wide end1 and #b inches wide at the narrow end4 ,cut the holes to receive the axle ends a trifle large so the axle will turn easily4 ,cut the connecting crosspieces ,b of the right length so there will be about #a_/d inch between the ends of the spool and supports ,a4 ,cut the crank stick ,c as shown in ,fig4 #cc1 bore a hole for the axle end to fit in1 bore another hole in the edge for a set-screw to hold the stick in place on the axle end1 and pivot a spool in place for a handle4 ,if the hole in the spool is too large for the head of the nail used for pivoting1 slip a small iron or leather washer over the nail4 ,an old belt or shawl-strap should be used for strapping the kite-reel to your body4 ,fasten this to the ends of the axle supports ,a by nailing the strips ,d to them as shown in ,fig4 #cb4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,a ,,home-,,made ,,model ,,aeroplane ,model aeronautics has become nearly as popular as kite flying1 and girls as well as boys have taken to building these unique air toys4 ,the model aeroplane requires more work than ordinary kite construction4 ,it also requires more patience and greater accuracy1 because each part of the little aircraft must be made just so1 assembled just so1 and tuned-up just so1 to produce a model which will give a good account of itself4 ,of course your first model will probably not be perfect4 ,but if you do your work correctly and carefully it will fly1 and the experience you have acquired will make it possible to turn out a more nearly perfect second model4 ,many types of model aeroplanes have been devised1 but those of the simplest form of construction have made the best showing4 ,the majority of record-breaking models have been of one type--a triangular framework1 equipped with two planes1 and a pair of propellers operated by a pair of rubber-strand motors4 ,a most successful model of this type is shown in ,fig4 #cd1 and described and illustrated on the following pages4 ,this model has a distance record of #afbj feet made at the ,aero ,club of ,illinois' aviation field at ,cicero1 ,chicago1 where it flew #af feet beyond the fence of the #afj acre field4 ,the model weighs but #e-a_/b ounces1 has #i-;inch propellers of #bg inch pitch1 and is in every essential a speed machine4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cd4--,launching a ,model ,aeroplane4 ,the first part of the model to make is the triangular ,fuselage1 or motor base4 ,this consists of two side sticks1 splines1 or spars 7,a1 ,fig4 #ce7 of straight-grained white pine cut to the dimensions marked upon the drawing1 with their bow ends beveled off for a distance of #a-a_/d inches1 glued together1 and bound with thread4 ,the stern ends have a spread of #h inches1 and are braced at that distance by the separator ,b 7,fig4 #ce74 ,this separator is fastened flatwise between sticks ,a1 and its edges are reduced as shown in the small section drawing of ,fig4 #cg so they will offer less resistance to the air4 ,this piece is fastened between sticks ,a with brads4 ,separators ,c1 ,d1 and ,e are of the sizes marked in ,fig4 #ce1 and of the proper length to fit between side sticks ,a at the places indicated on the drawing4 ,they are cut oval-shaped1 as shown in the small section drawing in ,fig4 #cg4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ce4--,plan4 ,,fig4 #cf4--,side ,elevation 7without ,rubber ,motor74 ,,figs4 #ce and #cf4--,working-drawings of ,model ,aeroplane ,designed and ,built by ,harry ,wells4 ,this ,model has a record of #afbj feet made at the ,aero ,club of ,illinois' ,aviation ,field at ,cicero1 ,chicago4 ,before fastening the separators in position1 ,the ,thrust ,bearings for the propellers1 and the end plates for connecting the wire stays1 must be prepared4 ,figure #ch shows a dimensioned detail of the thrust bearings1 and ,fig4 #cg shows how they are bound to the ends of sticks ,a with thread4 ,these are cut out of brass1 bent into the shape shown1 and have a hole pierced through the folded tip for the propeller-shaft to run through1 another through one end for the brad to pass through that pins stick ,a to ,b1 and another through the other end to fasten the end of the wire stays to4 ,the small detail in ,fig4 #cg shows the end plates for the wire stays4 ,these are made no longer than is necessary for the connecting holes for the wire-stay ends4 ,pierce a hole through the center of each plate for the brad to pass through which fastens sticks ,a to the ends of the separators4 ,the plates are bound to sticks ,a with thread4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cg4--;,detail of ,fuselage and ,motor of the ,wells ,model4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ch4--;,detail of ,thrust ,bearing1 ,propeller-shaft1 and ,connections4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ci4--;,detail of ,bow ,hook and how ,rubber ,motor is ,connected to it4 ,the ,bow ,hooks support the bow ends of the rubber motor1 and are made upon the ends of a piece of heavy piano-wire bent ,v-shaped to fit over the ends of sticks ,a 7,fig4 #ci74 ,bind the wire to the sticks with thread1 coating the thread with glue to make it hold fast 7,fig4 #cg74 ,the ,main ,plane has a framework built as shown in ,fig4 #dj1 with the front or entering-edge1 and the rear or following-edge1 made of sticks of white pine or other light-weight wood1 and the ribs and tips on the ends made of ,no4 #af gauge aluminum wire4 ,the ends of the frame sticks are cut away on their outer edge1 to receive the ends of the wire forming the tips1 and the ends of these wires1 and the laps of the wire ribs1 are bound in position with thread1 and the thread then coated with glue to hold it in position4 ,the ,elevator1 or front plane1 has a framework made as shown in ,fig4 #da4 ,its entering-edge is a stick1 and its following-edge1 ribs1 and end tips1 are made of ,no4 #af gauge aluminum wire4 ,you will notice by ,fig4 #da that the center ribs cross the following-edge of the frame and are bent up in the form of a flat loop4 ,this loop rests against the under side of the fuselage1 and gives the elevator its proper angle for stability 7,fig4 #cf74 ,the tips are bent up to add stability4 ,the frames of the main plane and elevator are covered with china-silk1 which may either be sewed or glued in place1 and this is given a thin coat of shellac to make it air-tight and taut4 ,the covering must be put on smoothly to reduce to a minimum what is known as skin resistance--the resistance that the plane makes to the air while passing through it4 ,the main plane and elevator are held to the fuselage by means of rubber-bands slipped beneath them and over the fuselage1 and unlike the planes of the majority of models1 are fastened to the under side of the fuselage4 ,figure #cf shows the approximate position of the elevator4 ,that of the main plane will vary under different air conditions1 sometimes being placed over the separator ,c1 and at other times closer to separator ,b than is shown in ,fig4 #ce4 ,therefore1 you must adjust your plane and elevator--this operation is known as tuning--to suit the condition of the atmosphere1 until you find the positions where they will give the machine the greatest stability4 ,a great factor in the successful flight of a model aeroplane lies in properly tuning the planes1 both laterally and longitudinally1 and of course the planes must balance at their centers1 in order to make the machine balance properly4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dj4--;,detail of the ,main ,plane ,framework of the ,wells ,model4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #da4--;,detail of the ,elevator ,framework4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #db4--;,detail of ,fin4 ,the ,fin directly over the center of the elevator 7,figs4 #cd and #cf7 is provided for stability1 and may be used as a rudder by turning it slightly to one side or the other4 ,it is made of ,no4 #cd gauge sheet aluminum1 cut to the form shown in ,fig4 #db4 ,its vertical edge is bent around a piece of heavy wire1 as shown in the plan detail of ,fig4 #db1 and the lower end of the wire is fastened upright between the bow ends of sticks ,a4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dc4--,the ,wells ,model ,propeller4 ,the ,propellers are the most difficult part of the model aeroplane to make4 ,they must be very accurately cut1 and must be of identical size and pitch4 ,the pitch of a propeller is1 theoretically1 the distance forward that it advances in one complete revolution4 ,figure #dc shows one of the propellers of ,harry ,wells' machine1 which is #i inches in length and has a #bg-;inch pitch4 ,figure #dd shows ,how to ,prepare the ,propellers4 ,the pair must be opposites1 that is1 one must be of right-hand pitch and the other of left-hand pitch1 or1 in other words1 the upper end of the right-hand pitch propeller turns to the right1 and that of the left-hand pitch propeller turns to the left1 when viewing them from the rear4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dd4--;,how to ,prepare a #i-;inch ,propeller4 ,step ,a consists in properly planing up a straight-grained block of white pine #a-a_/b inches thick1 #b inches wide1 and #i inches long1 with its sides and ends straight and true1 for ,the ,propeller ,blank4 ,draw a line around the four faces of this block at the exact center of the length4 ,then on faces ,c and ,d1 lay off a distance of #a_/b inch on the center-line1 measuring from the edge of face ,b1 for the thickness of the propeller-hub1 and draw diagonal lines from the upper and lower left-hand corners of faces ,c and ,d to the end of the hub center-line 7,step ,b74 ,then cut away the portions outside of these lines1 as shown in ,step ,c4 ,lay out the hub upon faces ,a and ,b of the block1 with a #a_/b-;inch diameter1 and bore a small hole through the center to receive the propeller-shaft 7,step ,c74 ,draw diagonals from the corners to the center-line of the hub 7,step ,d72 then cut away the wood outside of these lines 7,step ,e74 ,the next step 7,f7 consists in laying out the form of the propeller blade upon all four sides and ends of the block1 and ,step ,g is the final one of cutting out the propeller1 scooping out its blades concave on one side1 and carving them convex on the opposite side4 ,a very sharp knife must be used for cutting2 and the work must be done slowly and carefully1 because the least slip is likely to ruin the propeller4 ,the entering-edge of each blade is the almost straight edge1 and should be cut very thin4 ,the ends of the blades should also be cut thin1 while the hub should be cut away as much as can safely be done without weakening the propeller4 ,when you have completed cutting the propellers1 place them at their centers across the edge of a knife-blade1 and if they do not balance perfectly1 locate the trouble and correct it4 ,finish the work with fine emery-paper1 and then shellac it4 ,some boys glue silk over the ends of their propeller blades1 for a distance of #a_/b inch or so1 to reinforce them and make them less likely to split4 ,the ,propeller-shafts are made of heavy piano-wire1 bent into a hook at one end 7,fig4 #ch7 to receive the rubber strands of the motor1 and cut of the right length to extend through the hole in the bearing1 through a glass bead1 through the propeller1 and then to bend over the side of the hub 7,figs4 #cg and #ch74 ,by bending over the end of the shaft against the hub1 it is held securely in place4 ,the ,motors consist of twelve strands of #a_/h-;inch flat rubber1 each1 and as these are #a yard in length1 exactly #bd yards of rubber are required4 ,the rubber is not connected direct to the hooks on the bow and propeller-shafts1 as the wire would quickly cut through the strands4 ,instead1 small rings are bent out of wire1 with pieces of small rubber-tubing slipped over the wire1 and the ends of the rubber strands are looped through these rings and bound in place with thread 7,fig4 #ci74 ,the wire rings are then slipped on and off the hooks quickly4 ,as light and heat cause rubber to deteriorate1 you must remove the motors from the machine after use1 pack away in a covered box1 and keep in a cool place1 in order to get the longest life possible out of the rubber4 ,it has been found that rubber motors can be wound much farther by lubricating them with glycerine4 ,it is only necessary to put a few drops of the glycerine upon a clean cloth1 and rub it over the outside strands2 then wind the motors1 and it will work over the surface of the inner strands until all parts are covered4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #de4--;,a ,home-made ,motor ,winder4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #df4--,the ,kind of ,egg-beater to ,use4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dg4--;,how the ,motors are ,connected to ,winder for ,winding4 ,of course the rubber motors must be twisted an equal number of turns1 in order to make the propellers work the same1 and this is usually done with an ingenious winder made from an egg-beater1 which winds both motors simultaneously4 ,the ,home-made ,motor-winder shown in ,fig4 #de is made from a ,dover egg-beater 7,fig4 #df74 ,to convert the egg-beater into a winder1 it is necessary to cut off the loop ends and the center pivot wires on which the loops turn4 ,then bend the cut-off ends of the loops into hooks1 and punch them to fit over the pivot wire ends1 as before 7,fig4 #de74 ,the ends of the pivot wires must be riveted to keep the hooks in position4 ,figure #dg shows ,how the ,egg-beater ,winds the ,motors4 ,while an assistant supports the model by the propeller end1 you remove the motor rings from the hooks on the bow of the fuselage1 and slip them on to the hooks of the egg-beater4 ,then you turn the crank of the winder1 counting the turns as you do so1 and when you have wound the motors as far as you wish1 slip off the motor rings1 and slip them back on to the bow hooks of the model aeroplane4 ,motors of models like that shown in this chapter are wound one-thousand turns or more for each flight4 ,wind the ,motors ,slowly1 especially after the first row of knots begin1 as it puts the rubber to the least amount of strain by doing this4 ,quick winding not only strains the rubber but makes the knots form in bunches1 and uneven winding1 of course1 produces an uneven unwinding4 ,the propellers must be held after the motors have been wound1 to keep them in check4 ,figure #cd shows ,the ,position to ,take for ,launching a ,model from the hand4 ,the machine should not be thrown forward1 as the movement would cause too great a disturbance of the air1 resulting in the machine losing its stability1 and probably upsetting4 ,the best method is to give the model a slight push that will start it off at a speed a trifle under that produced by its propellers4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,a ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,motor-,,boat ,the toy motor-boat shown in ,figs4 #dh and #di is propelled by a tin propeller run by a rubber-band motor4 ,a handful of rubber-bands will cost only a few cents1 and the rest of the working material can be picked up at home4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #di4--,the ,completed ,motor-boat4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ej4--,stern1 with ,motor in ,place4 ,prepare the ,bottom of the ,hull out of a piece of wood #a inch thick1 making it of the shape and dimensions shown in ,fig4 #ea4 ,be careful to curve the side edges the same4 ,use a saw for cutting out the piece1 then smooth up the edges with a plane and sandpaper4 ,the stern should be sawed off on a bevel as shown in ,fig4 #eb4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ea4--;,diagram of ,hull4 ,the ,sides of the hull 7,b1 ,figs4 #eb and #ec7 are thin strips #b-a_/b inches wide4 ,nail one to one edge of the bottom block1 then saw off the bow end on a line with the bow of the bottom block1 and the stern end on the same slant as the bevel cut on the stern of the bottom block4 ,with one piece in position1 nail on the second side and trim off its ends4 ,if you have any difficulty in making a neat joint between the bow ends of sides ,b1 take a piece of tin from a can1 bend it around the bow1 and tack it in place as shown in ,fig4 #dh4 ,the stern piece 7,c1 ,figs4 #ec and #ed7 should be cut next1 to fit the slanted ends of the sides4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #eb and #ec4--;,how the ,hull1 ,sides1 ,stern and ,deck ,pieces are ,assembled4 ,the ,deck 7,d7 extends from the bow almost to the center of the boat4 ,its top surface should taper in its length and curve from side to side4 ,the piece may be whittled or planed to this shape4 ,fasten it with brads to the top edges of the sides of the boat4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #dh4--,,launching ,,the ,,toy ,,motor-,,boat4 ,to ,complete the ,boat1 go over the work carefully1 trim off all projecting edges1 drive nail heads beneath the surfaces1 putty nail holes and cracks1 and give the wood two coats of paint of whatever color you want to have the motor-boat4 ,the ,propeller 7,e1 ,fig4 #ed7 is cut from the side of a tin can4 ,cut a piece #c inches long and #c_/d inch wide1 round its ends1 and with the point of a nail pierce a hole through it each side of the center of the length of the piece 7,fig4 #ee74 ,to finish the propeller1 it is only necessary to take hold of the two ends and twist the piece into the shape shown in ,fig4 #ef4 ,the ,propeller-shaft requires a short piece of wire with one end bent into a hook 7,f1 ,fig4 #ef74 ,stick the straight end of this shaft through one hole in the propeller1 and the hooked end through the other hole1 then twist the hooked end over on to the main part of the shaft1 as shown in ,fig4 #eg4 ,make a tight twist so the propeller will be held perfectly rigid on the shaft4 ,the ,bearing ,plate ,g 7,figs4 #ed and #eh7 supports the propeller4 ,cut it out of a piece of tin #a-a_/b inches wide by #c inches long1 bend it in half crosswise to give it stiffness1 and then bend it lengthwise to the angle shown so it will fit over the slanted stern of the boat4 ,punch two holes through the upper end for nailing the plate to the stern1 and a hole at the lower end for the propeller-shaft to run through4 ,for a ,thrust ,bearing1 slip a couple of beads over the propeller-shaft1 between the propeller and bearing plate ,g4 ,probably you can find glass beads in your mother's button bag4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ed4--,longitudinal ,section of ,assembled ,motor-boat4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #ee-ei4--;,details of ,propeller4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fj4--,rubber-band ,motor4 ,after slipping the beads on to the shaft1 and sticking the shaft through the hole in bearing plate ,g1 bend the end of the shaft into a hook2 then screw a small screw-hook into the bottom of the hull1 at the bow end 7,i1 ,fig4 #ed71 and you will be ready for ,the ,rubber-band ,motor4 ,rubber-bands about #a-a_/b inches in length are best for the purpose4 ,loop these together end to end 7,fig4 #fj7 to form a strand that will reach from hook ,i to the hook on the propeller-shaft2 then form three more strands of this same length1 and slip the end loops of all four strands over the hooks4 ,to ,wind the ,motor1 give the propeller about one hundred turns with your finger2 then1 keep hold of the propeller until you launch the boat4 ,there are many ways of elaborating upon the design and construction of this toy motor-boat1 but1 having given the necessary instructions for building a simple model1 ,i am going to leave further development for you to work out4 ,here is an opportunity for you to use your ingenuity4 ,devise an adjustable rudder1 add a keel1 finish off the cockpit with a coaming1 install a headlight made from a pocket flashlight--in fact1 see just how complete a motor-boat model you can build4 ,,chapter ,v ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,water-,,motors ,you can own a water-motor like the one shown in ,fig4 #fa1 because its construction requires nothing but easily obtained materials4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fa4--;,a ,varnish-can ,water-motor in ,operation4 ,the ,case of this water-motor is made of an empty varnish can--preferably one of gallon capacity4 ,nothing better could be desired4 ,the tin can makes a light-weight compact case2 the spout in the top is in just the right place and of the right size to receive the water power from a faucet2 and as the water connections can be made tight there is no possibility of water splashing on to the floor--a big argument in your favor when seeking permission to use the motor in the bath-tub1 wash-basin1 or kitchen sink4 ,you can get an empty varnish can from any painter1 or at a paint store4 ,the first step in converting the can into the motor case consists in removing the bottom4 ,you will find this soldered in place1 in all probability1 and it can be removed quickly by holding the can over the flame of a gas burner until the solder melts1 when a few taps upon the edges will cause the piece of tin to drop off4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fb4--,the ,completed ,varnish-can ,water-motor4 ,the ,water-motor ,wheel is shown in the cross-sections of the water-motor 7,figs4 #fc and #fd71 and ,figs4 #fe to #fg show its details4 ,the diameter of the wheel should be about #a_/b inch less than the inside width of the can4 ,in the model from which the drawings were made1 this measurement is #e-a_/b inches4 ,cut the two side pieces of the wheel out of a piece of cigar-box wood1 and bore a #a_/d-;inch hole through the center of each for the wheel axle4 ,fasten a spool to the center of one side piece for a pulley-wheel 7,fig4 #ff74 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #fc and #fd4--,sections through ,water-motor ,case4 ,prepare ,eight ,paddles #a-c_/d inches wide and #b-a_/b inches long1 out of cigar-box wood4 ,locate the positions for the ends of the paddles1 upon the side pieces1 by drawing a horizontal line1 a vertical line1 and two diagonal lines at angles of #de degrees1 through their centers4 ,this will simplify the matter of spacing the paddles equidistant from one another 7,fig4 #fg74 ,use brads for fastening the side pieces to the paddle ends4 ,those removed from the cigar boxes will do4 ,the ,wheel ,shaft should be a trifle shorter than the inside width of the can1 and enough smaller than the #a_/d-;inch hole in the wheel side pieces so the wheel will turn freely4 ,locate the centers for the axle upon the two sides of the can1 in the proper position so there will be the same margin above and at the ends of the wheel4 ,drive a nail through each side of the can into the axle end4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #fe4--,the ,completed ,water-motor ,wheel4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #ff and #fg4--;,details of ,water-motor ,wheel4 ,an ,outlet for the water after it has passed over the wheel paddles must be provided1 and the best way is to fasten a strip to two opposite sides of the can so as to raise the bottom about an inch1 as shown in ,figs4 #fb1 #fc1 and #fd4 ,for a ,pulley-belt use a piece of heavy cord4 ,cut a slot through the front of the can for the belt to run through1 and make this slot large enough so the cord will not rub against the sides 7,fig4 #fc74 ,pulley-wheels for attaining different speeds can be made of spools of various sizes4 ,a bicycle wheel with the tire removed1 mounted in a frame1 is excellent for a large wheel4 ,connecting up the ,water-motor4 ,if you operate the water-motor in the kitchen sink1 you can either build a platform as shown in ,fig4 #fa1 to bring the spout of the varnish-can case up to the level of the faucet1 or you can set the water-motor in the sink and lead a piece of rubber tubing from the spout to the faucet1 as shown in ,fig4 #fh4 ,if you use the latter arrangement1 slip the lower end of the rubber tubing over a short piece of glass1 brass1 or tin tubing1 and stick the short tubing through a hole in a cork large enough to fit the spout of the varnish-can case 7,fig4 #fi74 ,if you raise the water-motor high enough so the faucet will set down into the spout1 you can cut a large enough hole for the faucet1 through a cork1 and then fit the cork in the spout as shown in ,fig4 #fd4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #fh-fi4--;,how to ,make a ,water-tight ,connection between ,faucet and ,water-motor4 ,another ,water-motor4 ,the little water-motor in ,fig4 #gj will furnish sufficient power to operate simple mechanical toys4 ,the ,water-motor ,wheel4 ,procure two baking-powder can covers for the ends of the water-motor wheel 7,a1 ,fig4 #gb71 a cigar-box out of which to make the wheel paddles1 and a stick #a_/d inch square and #e inches long for the wheel axle 7,b1 ,fig4 #gb74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gj4--;,a ,small ,water-motor that can be ,operated in a ,wash-basin4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ga4--,the ,water-motor ,wheel4 ,cut eight paddles from the cigar-box wood #a inch wide and #e inches long4 ,take a pair of these strips and fasten them to one can cover1 in line with each other1 and close against the sides of the cover 7,c1 ,fig4 #gc74 ,fasten with tacks or brads driven through the cover into the ends of the strips4 ,take another pair of strips and fasten them to the same cover1 in a similar manner1 at right angles to pair ,c 7,d1 ,fig4 #gb74 ,then tack the pairs of strips ,e and ,f to the cover halfway between pairs ,c and ,d4 ,with the paddles in position1 locate the exact center of the end of the can cover1 and drive a nail through at this point into the end of axle ,b4 ,slip the free ends of the paddles into the other can cover1 and carefully drive tacks or brads through the cover into them4 ,drive a nail through the center of the cover into the end of axle ,b4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #gb and #gc4--;,details of ,water-motor ,wheel4 ,the ,wheel ,supports4 ,figure #gd shows the supports for the wheel4 ,cut the end pieces ,g #d inches wide and #f inches high1 and the cross strips ,h #a-c_/d inches wide and #e-a_/b inches long4 ,nail pieces ,g to ,h1 as shown1 allowing the lower ends of ,g to extend #a_/b inch below strips ,h1 and leaving a space of #a_/b inch between strips ,h4 ,the axle holes in pieces ,g 7,fig4 #gd7 should be located in the center of the width of these pieces1 and halfway between their tops and strips ,h4 ,bore the holes with a gimlet1 or make them by driving a large nail through the pieces1 and then withdrawing it4 ,to ,mount the ,wheel upon the supports1 withdraw the nails driven into the ends of axle ,b1 slip the wheel between uprights ,g1 and drive the nails through the holes in ,g back into the holes in the axle ends 7,fig4 #ga74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gd4--,support for ,water-motor ,wheel4 ,the ,pulley ,wheel4 ,one can cover should be converted into a pulley by winding several turns of string around it1 near each edge1 leaving a groove between the string4 ,coat the string with glue to make it stick fast to the cover4 ,the ,water-motor ,case4 ,figure #gj shows how the water-motor case is constructed by fastening boards ,n1 ,i1 ,j1 ,k1 ,l1 and ,m to the wheel supports ,g4 ,there must be a slot through ,i and another through ,j1 for the string belt to pass through1 and a hole through ,k for the intake of water from a faucet4 ,these can be cut out of the edges of the boards1 as shown1 before they are nailed in place4 ,leave an opening between boards ,n and ,m1 and the bottom of ends ,g1 for an outlet for waste water4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,a ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,railway ,it is often thought that a toy railway is beyond a boy's ingenuity to construct1 whereas1 in reality1 it is one of the simplest toys he can make4 ,this applies to the tracks1 stations1 and cars of every description1 all of which can be made with a few strips of wood1 some spools1 nails1 cardboard1 and a bottle of glue1 for materials4 ,if you have passed the age of caring for such toys as this1 you will1 no doubt1 enjoy the making of one for your younger brother1 or for one of your boy relatives4 ,figure #gf shows a railway set up and in running order4 ,as shown in the illustration1 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ge4--,upright4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gf4--,the ,toy ,railway in ,operation4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gg4--,support for ,trolley-line4 ,the ,trolley-line1 or overhead cable1 runs around the wheels of two supports1 one at either end of the track4 ,prepare four pieces of wood the shape and size of that shown in ,fig4 #ge for the uprights of these supports1 and make two wheels three inches in diameter4 ,the wheels may be marked out with a home-made compass--a pencil tied to the end of a piece of string1 if you haven't a compass4 ,when the wheels have been cut out1 place them in your bench-vise1 one at a time1 and with a file make a groove around the edge as shown at ,c1 ,fig4 #gg4 ,bore a three-eighths-inch hole through each upright at ,f1 ,fig4 #ge1 and another through the center of each wheel4 ,now fasten two of the uprights six inches apart upon a block of wood1 as shown at ,a and ,b1 ,fig4 #gg4 ,whittle a shaft to fit loosely in the holes of the uprights1 and1 after slipping it into them1 fasten one of the wheels upon one end and a small spool upon the other 7see ,c and ,d in ,fig4 #gg74 ,a weight of some sort should be fastened to the base1 as shown at ,e4 ,the uprights for the other support should be similarly mounted upon another block of wood4 ,fasten the remaining wheel to an axle run through the holes in the uprights1 and1 as it is unnecessary to have a spool upon the other end of the axle1 cut it off short and drive a nail through it to prevent it from slipping through the holes4 ,having thus prepared the supports1 place them as far apart as you wish to extend the railway1 and run a cord around the two wheels and tie it4 ,then set the supports a little farther apart1 if necessary1 to tighten the cord4 ,run another cord from spool ,d to ,a ,water-motor1 steam engine1 or whatever power you can get with which to operate the railway4 ,a bicycle inverted with the tire removed from its rear wheel has been used satisfactorily1 as has also a sewing-machine with the belt slipped off and the cord from the spool put in its place4 ,a good substitute for the tin tracks ordinarily sold in shops for toy railways will be found in those shown in ,fig4 #gh4 ,these ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gh4--,the ,tracks4 ,tracks consist of quarter-inch strips mounted upon pieces of cardboard4 ,make a small gimlet-hole in one end of each stick1 and drive a short finishing nail in the opposite end 7see ,fig4 #gh74 ,cut the cardboard strips the length of the sticks1 and tack them to the sticks as shown in the illustration4 ,if inch and one-half spools are used for the car wheels1 the inside gauge of the tracks should be an inch and three-quarters4 ,by lapping the cardboard strips over the ends of the sticks1 and the sticks over the ends of the cardboard strips1 and placing the nail dowels in the ends of the sticks as in the drawing1 a strong track is formed when the pieces are fitted together4 ,this may be extended to any desired length by adding more sections to it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #gi4--;,a ,top ,view of ,car ,truck4 ,the ,cars for this railway will have their trucks constructed alike1 and it is a simple matter to transform a car from one style into another4 ,figure #gi shows a top view of a truck4 ,for the bed of this cut a three-eighths-inch board twelve inches long by two and one-quarter inches wide1 and1 after rounding the ends as shown in the drawing1 cut a mortise at ,a and ,b two and three-eighths inches from either end4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hj4--,spool ,wheels4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ha4--,the ,completed ,car ,truck4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hb4 ,procure two one and one-half inch spools for wheels1 and drive a wooden peg through the hole in each1 cutting off the ends so they project a little beyond the hole1 as shown in ,fig4 #hj4 ,then bore four holes in the edges of the truck-bed with a gimlet at ,c1 ,d1 ,e1 and ,f 7see drawing71 and1 after setting the spools in mortises ,a and ,b1 pivot them in place with small finishing nails driven into the wooden pegs4 ,these nails should fit loosely in the gimlet holes4 ,in order to drive them into the exact centers of the spools1 it is best to locate these points upon the ends of the pegs before placing the spools in the frame4 ,a quarter-inch hole should be bored in the top of the truck-bed at ,g and ,h 7,fig4 #gi7 in which to fasten the two uprights ,i and ,j 7see ,fig4 #ha74 ,make the uprights four inches long and whittle a peg upon the lower ends to fit holes ,g and ,h 7see ,fig4 #hb74 ,bore a hole with a gimlet in the top of each and run a piece of heavy wire from one to the other1 bending it as shown in ,fig4 #ha4 ,fasten ,k between ,i and ,j1 as shown4 ,place a small brass ring upon the wire before you fasten it in place4 ,a small hook should be screwed into one end of the truck and a screw-eye into the other end1 for couplings1 should you wish to hitch two or more cars together4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hc4--;,a ,gondola ,car4 ,a ,gondola ,car1 such as shown in ,fig4 #hc1 should have its truck made similar to ,fig4 #gi1 with the exception that it should be two inches shorter1 in order that cigar-box strips can be used for the side pieces4 ,cut the strips an inch and one-half high and fasten them to the bed of the car with brads4 ,this car may be used as a trailer4 ,the car shown in ,fig4 #ha is a rather crude affair1 but with a little more work may be transformed into a better looking car-- ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #hd4--,side ,view4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #he4--;,end ,view4 ,a ,street ,car such as is shown in ,figs4 #hd and #he being an example of what can be made4 ,the sides1 ends1 and roof of this car are made of cardboard1 the patterns for the cutting of which are shown on page #ee4 ,figure #hf shows a cross-section taken through the center of the car4 ,the two side pieces ,a should be prepared first1 as shown in ,fig4 #hg4 ,with a ruler and lead-pencil draw in the windows about as shown in the drawing1 using double lines to indicate the sash4 ,then1 with a sharp knife1 cut out the center of each just inside of the inner line4 ,these windows may be left open or may be covered on the inside with tissue-paper4 ,if tissue-paper is used1 oil it to make it more transparent4 ,when the two sides have been prepared1 bend each along the dotted lines 7see ,fig4 #hg7 and tack one to each side of your car truck as shown in ,fig4 #hf4 ,when properly bent1 the distance between the upper part of the sides should be two and three-quarters inches4 ,cut the two inner ends of the car the shape of ,fig4 #hh1 using a compass with a radius of two and one-half inches with which to describe the curve at the top4 ,draw in the panels and sash lines as you did those upon the side pieces1 being careful to get them on the same level1 and cut out the door and window openings4 ,fasten these end pieces between the sides with glue1 and also tack them to the uprights of the car 7,i and ,j1 ,fig4 #ha71 which will come just inside of them4 ,the roof is made in two sections 7,b and ,c1 ,fig4 #hf74 ,for ,b cut a piece of cardboard twelve and one-quarter by three and three-quarter inches 7,fig4 #hi71 draw the curved end with a compass1 using the radius shown on the drawing1 and slit the corners as indicated by the dotted lines4 ,when this piece has thus been prepared1 remove the wire from the top of the truck 7see ,fig4 #ha74 ,bend the cardboard over the sides and ends of the car1 and lap corners ,d and ,e over ,f and ,g1 and ,h and ,i over ,j and ,k1 tacking them with thread to hold them in place4 ,to fasten this part of the roof to the top of the car1 cut a number of small strips of linen1 and glue them to the under side of the roof and to the inside face of the sides and ends of the car 7see ,fig4 #hf74 ,the upper portion of the roof ,c should be made out of a piece of cardboard bent into the shape of ,fig4 #ij1 and cut at the ends so the upper portion of ,c projects a little beyond its sides4 ,draw the ventilation lights upon the sides of ,c as shown on the drawings1 and then fasten the piece upon the top of ,b with strips of linen in the same manner as you fastened ,b in place4 ,c should now have the same curve to its top as ,b4 ,cut and glue a piece of cardboard in each end of ,c to complete the roof4 ,the shape of this piece is shown in ,fig4 #ia4 ,the outer ends of the car should be made as shown in ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #hf-id4--;,details of ,toy ,street ,car4 ,fig4 #ib1 and tacked around the ends of the wooden truck platform1 and also fastened to the under side of the roof with strips of linen4 ,the window openings may be cut in each end1 but it will make a stronger car if they are simply drawn upon it4 ,cut four cardboard steps similar to ,fig4 #ic and tack them to the sides of the front and rear platforms4 ,when the car has been put together1 replace the wire in the tops of uprights ,i and ,j 7,fig4 #ha71 running the ends through the roof 7see ,fig4 #hd74 ,paint the sides and ends of the car yellow with brown trimmings1 and paint the roof a light gray4 ,water colors can be used for the purpose4 ,letter the name of your car-line upon the sides and the number of the car upon each end and side4 ,the route should be lettered upon strips of cardboard with pins run through them as shown in ,fig4 #id1 these strips to stick in the roof of the car 7see ,figs4 #hd and #he74 ,having seen how the car is made1 you will find it a simple matter to make designs for ,other ,cars1 using the same scheme for the trucks1 and altering the patterns for the sides1 ends1 and roof1 to suit the design4 ,nothing has1 as yet1 been said about the ,operation of the ,railway1 and though ,fig4 #gf probably shows sufficiently clear how it is run1 a few words may be helpful4 ,the car or cars are placed between the wooden tracks1 and the trolley 7or cord attached to the ring on top of the car7 is tied to the trolley-line as in the illustration4 ,upon starting your engine1 water-motor1 or whatever motive-power you have1 the car will run from one end of the track to the other4 ,when it has reached the support of the trolley-line1 it will stop long enough for the cord trolley to pass around the wooden wheel1 and then run in the opposite direction until the other support is reached4 ,it will thus be seen that the trolley hangs to the upper part of the cable1 or trolley-line1 in running one way1 and to the lower part on the return run4 ,in changing the direction of the run1 the ring to which the trolley is attached slides to the other end of the car4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ie4--,the ,railway ,depot4 ,a ,station such as is illustrated in ,fig4 #ie is made out of cardboard and mounted upon a seven-eighths-inch board large enough to form a railway platform4 ,after cutting out the side and end pieces1 with door and window openings placed as shown in the illustration1 fasten them together with strips of linen glued in the corners4 ,make the roof low and extend it over the platform upon each side and over the gable-ends1 as shown in the illustration4 ,paint the sides of the depot the regulation depot red1 and the roof a shingle or slate color4 ,paint the door and window-sash black1 letter the name of the station upon the gable-ends1 and with a ruler and lead-pencil rule off the boards upon the sides1 and the slate or shingles upon the roof4 ,as this is a typical railway station1 two may be made of the same pattern1 one for either end of your car line4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,elevators ,the elevator shown in ,fig4 #if is a unique mechanical toy well worth one's making4 ,release the little car at the top floor1 and it will descend to the ground floor1 and then return to the starting point1 without you having to touch it a second time4 ,a magical elevator8 ,perhaps so4 ,a little mechanical device performs the trick4 ,the same plan may be followed for installing the doll-house elevator in ,chapter ,,xiii1 but the more stories there are the more fun there is in operating the elevator4 ,this is why ,i have adapted the scheme to ,a ,toy ,office ,building4 ,six stories are shown in ,fig4 #if1 but you can make a modern sky-scraper with as many stories as you like4 ,a packing-case #c feet #f inches long1 stood on end1 was used for the model4 ,another box or two can be added to the top for additional stories4 ,besides the box1 or boxes1 get enough box boards for floors and partitions4 ,make the ,floors in two pieces 7,a and ,b1 ,fig4 #ih71 so the opening for the elevator shaft can be cut out of the end of one piece in the manner shown4 ,this opening should be about #e inches square4 ,mark out and cut the boards for all of the floors at one time1 and be careful to get the shaft opening the same in each floor4 ,cut the notch ,c in board ,a about #a inch square4 ,fasten the floor boards in place with nails driven through the sides of the box4 ,the ,partitions1 a pattern for which is shown in ,fig4 #ii1 can be made quicker by omitting the doorway1 but this is easy to cut by sawing along the sides and then splitting out the piece between the saw cuts4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #if4--;,a ,toy ,office ,building with ,elevator4 ,the ,elevator ,car should be built up of cigar-box wood1 as shown in ,figs4 #aja and #ajb4 ,the front portion 7,d7 should be about #c inches wide1 #b-a_/b inches deep1 and #d inches high1 and the rear portion 7,e7 should be of the same width1 #b inches deep1 and #b-a_/b inches high4 ,fasten these upon the base piece ,f as shown4 ,the ,elevator ,guides4 ,bore the holes ,g through the top and bottom of the car1 close to the sides1 for guide wires ,h to run through 7,figs4 #aja and #ajb74 ,these holes may be bored with a screw-eye if you haven't a gimlet or drill4 ,bell-wire1 or almost any wire that you have on hand1 will do for the guides4 ,fasten two screw-eyes into the under side of the top of the shaft1 the same distance apart as holes ,g1 and in the proper position so they will come exactly over them 7,i1 ,fig4 #ajj74 ,use the car for determining these measurements4 ,then bore two holes through the bottom of the shaft directly below the screw-eyes 7,j1 ,fig4 #ajj74 ,attach the wire to one screw-eye1 run it down through holes ,g in the car1 through one of the holes ,j1 then across to and up through the other hole ,j1 up through the other set of holes ,g in the car1 and attach to the second screw-eye ,i4 ,the ,cables4 ,the elevator is lifted by means of cord ,l 7,figs4 #ig and #aja74 ,fasten this cord to a tack driven into the top of the car1 then run it up and over spool ,m 7,figs4 #ig and #aja71 over spool ,n 7,fig4 #ig71 and tie to weight ,k4 ,the ,counter-balance4 ,a bottle1 filled with sand to make it weigh more than twice as much as the car1 should be used for this4 ,screw a small screw-eye into the cork to tie the cord to4 ,the counter-balance runs up and down in ,the ,smoke-stack1 which is fastened to the back of the building 7,fig4 #ig74 ,make the stack of cardboard mailing-tubes1 joining them end to end with bands of paper pasted around them4 ,fasten the stack to the back of the building with wire straps1 and brace the top as shown in ,fig4 #if1 but leave it unattached until you have adjusted ,the ,overhead ,pulleys1 or sheaves4 ,these are spools4 ,you will see by looking at ,fig4 #ajj that spool ,m turns on the axle ,o1 and the ends of this axle are cut to fit snugly in screw-eyes ,i4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ig4--,section through ,elevator ,shaft4 ,fasten pulley spool ,n in the smoke-stack by means of a wooden axle pushed through holes pierced in the side of the stack1 as is shown in the small drawing above1 ,fig4 #ig4 ,bore a hole through the back of the building for the cable cord ,l to run through 7,p1 ,figs4 #ig and #ajj71 and cut another through the smoke-stack4 ,how the ,car ,operates4 ,when the weight and cord have been adjusted and the smoke-stack erected1 the elevator will run from the ground floor up to the roof of its own accord1 because the counter-balance is much heavier than the car4 ,to make it descend it is necessary to add weight to the car1 to make it enough heavier than the counter-balance so it will drop of its own accord4 ,this is done with ,ballast consisting of a bottle of sand or salt of twice the combined weight of counter-balance ,k and the car4 ,after filling the bottle1 cork it up1 and screw a screw-eye into the cork4 ,then screw the eye of a #b-;inch hook-and-eye into the roof of the building1 directly over the center of box ,e of the elevator 7,r1 ,figs4 #ig and #aja71 and attach one end of a rubber-band to the hook and tack the other end to the top of the elevator-shaft 7,fig4 #aja74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ih4--;,floors4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ii4--,partitions4 ,with the hook and rubber-band properly adjusted1 this is what happens when the car ascends to the top of the shaft4 ,the bottom of the rear portion of the car strikes bottle ,q1 lifts it enough to release the end of the hook 7,r71 and the rubber-band springs the hook out of the way 7,fig4 #ig74 ,the bottle remains upon the rear portion of the car1 and its weight carries the car to the bottom of the shaft4 ,to ,make the ,car ,rise to the top of the shaft again1 remove bottle ,q4 ,replace the bottle upon the end of hook ,r1 and it will be in position for the next trip downwards4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajj4--;,front ,view of ,elevator ,shaft4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #aja and #ajb4--;,elevator ,car ,details4 ,cut the holes ,y and ,z 7,fig4 #ajj7 through the outside wall of the shaft for hand holes through which to reach bottle ,q and hook ,r4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajc4--;,detail of ,brake and ,controlling ,levers4 ,figures #ig1 #ajj1 and #ajc show ,a ,simple ,control for stopping the car at the different floor levels4 ,stick ,s may be a piece of broom-handle1 curtain-pole1 or flagstaff4 ,bore a hole through the bottom of the shaft1 directly below holes ,c in the floors 7,t1 ,fig4 #ajj71 and slip the stick through hole ,t and into slots ,c4 ,then locate on one side of stick ,s points just below the under face of each floor1 and upon the opposite side locate points just above where the back edge of the elevator will come when the car is raised to each floor level 7,fig4 #ig74 ,remove the stick1 and drill or bore a small hole at each point marked2 then replace it1 nail a small block 7,u1 ,fig4 #ajj7 across the top end to hold it in place1 and drive a nail1 with its head filed off1 into each of the holes4 ,when stick ,s is turned to the position shown in ,fig4 #ig1 while the car is going down1 the first nail below the car will project beneath it and bring it to a stop2 and if the stick is turned in the opposite direction while the elevator is going up1 the first nail above the car will project over the back edge of portion ,e and bring the car to a stop4 ,two ,levers operate the brakes 7,w1 ,figs4 #ig and #ajj74 ,cut these of the shape shown in ,fig4 #ajc1 and screw one to each side wall4 ,then tack a piece of cord to stick ,s1 wrap the ends of the cord once around1 slip them through screw-eyes ,v screwed into the side walls1 and tie to tacks driven into levers ,w4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajd4--;,an ,outdoor ,elevator4 ,one series of brakes can now be set by pulling forward one lever1 and the other series by pulling forward the other lever4 ,by driving a nail into stick ,s at ,x 7,fig4 #ajj71 and a nail into the bottom of the shaft1 each side of stick ,s1 the levers will turn the stick just far enough in either direction to bring the brakes into operation4 ,if there is a kitchen porch to your house1 construct ,the ,outdoor ,elevator shown in ,fig4 #ajd to run from the ground up to that porch4 ,if you live in an upper story of an apartment building1 your elevator can be made to run to a greater height1 which1 of course1 will make more fun4 ,it will save considerable work to use the porch1 because for one thing you will not have to build an upper platform to stand upon to reach the elevator car when it runs to the top1 and for another thing the supports for the guides and cable can be fastened directly to one of the porch posts4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aje4--,supports for ,elevator ,guides and ,cables4 ,figure #aje shows a large detail of ,the ,guide ,supports4 ,cross strips ,a1 ,b1 and ,c should be #ah or #bj inches long1 about #b inches wide1 and #a inch thick4 ,at a distance of about #a inch from one end of strips ,a and ,b screw a screw-eye into one edge1 and #h inches from those eyes screw a second screw-eye 7,d1 ,fig4 #aje74 ,screw-eyes with #a_/b inch eyes are large enough4 ,a dozen will cost about #e cents at the hardward store4 ,the elevator guides are fastened to these4 ,besides the screw-eyes there must be two clothes-line pulleys for the cable to run over4 ,these cost #e cents apiece4 ,screw one pulley into the edge of strip ,b1 halfway between the two screw-eyes ,d 7,e1 ,fig4 #aje71 the other into an edge of strip ,c at the same distance from the end that you have placed the pulley in strip ,b 7,f1 ,fig4 #aje74 ,nail strip ,a to the porch post as close to the ground as you can get it1 strip ,b to the same face of the same post1 about #ah inches above the porch railing1 and strip ,c to the opposite face of the post at the same height as strip ,b4 ,nail these strips securely in place4 ,if you cannot find a starch-box or other small box out of which to make ,the ,car1 go to a grocery store4 ,you will be sure to find just what you want there4 ,it is not likely that the grocer will charge you anything for a small box like this4 ,if you have placed screw-eyes ,d #h inches apart1 as directed1 the width of the box should be a trifle less than this measurement1 but if the box you pick up is wider the screw-eyes can be spaced as much farther apart as is necessary to accommodate it4 ,figure #ajf shows how the box is converted into the car4 ,screw two screw-eyes into each side of the box1 one above the other1 as shown at ,g1 for the elevator guides to run through1 screw another into the exact center of the top 7,h7 to tie the hoisting cable to1 and screw another into the exact center of the bottom to tie the lowering cable to4 ,nail a narrow strip across the open front of the car1 at the bottom1 to keep things from falling out4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajf4--;,elevator ,car4 ,get heavy wrapping-twine or stovepipe wire for ,the ,guides4 ,attach these guides to screw-eyes ,d in strip ,b1 first1 drop them through screw-eyes ,g in the sides of the car1 and then fasten to screw-eyes ,d in strip ,a4 ,the ,counter-balance is a large can filled with earth1 sand1 or small stones4 ,its weight must be equal to about three times that of the empty car4 ,fasten the lifting cable through holes punched in opposite sides of the can 7,fig4 #ajg74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajg4--;,counter-balance4 ,use a strong wrapping-twine for ,the ,lifting ,cable4 ,after tying this to the counter-balance1 run it over pulley ,f1 then over pulley ,e1 and tie to screw-eye ,h in the top of the car4 ,the cable must be of the right length so when the counter-balance has dropped to the ground the car will come just above the porch railing1 as shown in ,fig4 #ajd4 ,tie ,the ,lowering ,cable to the screw-eye screwed into the under side of the car4 ,as long as the weight of the car and its load remains less than half of that of the counter-balance1 the counter-balance will drop and by so doing lift the car4 ,the cable attached to the bottom must be pulled to lower the car4 ,those of you boys who own a tree-hut1 or intend to build one1#a should erect an elevator similar to the one just described1 for hoisting supplies to the hut4 ,footnote #a3 ,plans for building ,tree-huts1 and a ,dumb-,waiter for supplies1 are given in ,chapter ,,xxv of ,the ,handy ,boy4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,home-,,made ,,mechanical ,,toys ,those of you boys who have examined the little mechanical toys sold upon the street corners just before ,christmas probably have been surprised to find how simply they are made1 and perhaps it has never occurred to you that you might make toys equally as good for presents for your younger brothers1 sisters1 or cousins4 ,most of the smaller mechanical toys are not only easy to make1 but they require materials which cost little and can usually be picked up at home4 ,sometimes it takes considerable thinking and planning to discover just the things which can be adapted to the various parts of toys2 but that is where part of the fun of toy making comes in4 ,a ,buzz-saw ,whirligig is an interesting toy 7,fig4 #ajh74 ,lay out a disk about #e inches in diameter upon a piece of cardboard1 locate the position for the spool-end on the center of each face1 and make four rings outside of this4 ,divide the circumference of the disk into sixteen equal parts1 and lay off the teeth as shown4 7,fig4 #aaa47 ,the spool-ends used for centers should have two holes drilled through them for the twisting cord to slip through1 and should be fastened to the disk with glue or brads4 ,a cotton string is best for ,operating the ,whirligig4 ,after slipping it through the holes in the spool-ends1 tie the ends together4 ,to work the toy1 slip the first finger of each hand through the loop of each end1 and whirl the disk in one direction until the string is twisted from both ends as far as the center4 ,then pull firmly on the ends of the string1 and the disk will whirl in the opposite direction until the string is untwisted and twisted up again in the opposite direction4 ,as the strings twist1 slacken your hold upon the ends1 and when it has wound up tight pull again to make it whirl in the opposite direction4 ,the disk should whirl very steadily when working right1 and the knack of making the string twist so the disk will do so is attained with a little practice4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aaa4--;,detail of ,buzz-saw ,whirligig shown in ,fig4 #ajh4 ,the ,clog-dancer 7,fig4 #aji7 is an easily made loose-jointed doll4 ,his dancing-stage is a shingle or piece of stiff cardboard held on the edge of a chair beneath your knee4 ,he is held by means of the string attached to his head1 so that his feet rest lightly upon the stage1 and he is made to jig by tapping the outer end of the stage with the free hand4 ,with a little practice the figure can be made to go through the steps of the most eccentric clog-dancer4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ajh4--,,the ,,buzz-,,saw ,,whizzes ,,when ,,you ,,twist ,,the ,,cord4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aji4--,,the ,,eccentric ,,clog-,,dancer ,,is ,a ,,circus ,,in ,,himself4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aaj4--,,pull ,,the ,,string ,,and ,,jack ,,jumps ,,comically4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aab4--;,details of ,body of the ,clog-dancer shown in ,fig4 #aji4 ,the more grotesque the dancer's appearance is1 the more amusing his dancing will be1 so the cruder you make him the better4 ,figure #aab shows the working details for his construction4 ,the center part of a thread-spool forms the head1 and a spool-end and the rounded end of a broom-handle form the hat4 ,these three pieces are nailed together4 ,the body is a piece of a broom-handle1 and a spool-end nailed to it forms the shoulders4 ,drive a nail into the end of the body1 tie a string to this1 and run the string up through the hole in the head1 and out through a hole in the hat2 tie the string to a fancy-work ring4 ,the arms and legs are made of sticks whittled to the lengths marked in ,fig4 #aab1 and about #a_/d inch in diameter1 and are jointed by driving tacks into their ends and connecting these with heavy linen thread4 ,figure #aab shows how the feet and hands are cut1 and how tacks are driven into them for the thread connections4 ,paint the clog-dancer's body1 arms1 and legs white1 his head1 hands1 and feet black1 and mark his eyes1 nose1 and mouth upon his face in white4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aac4--;,details of ,body of the ,jumping-jack shown in ,fig4 #aaj4 ,a ,toy ,jumping-jack is always amusing1 and ,fig4 #aaj shows a simply constructed home-made model4 ,you will see by ,fig4 #aac how the figure is made4 ,the peaked hat is half a spool tapered down from the end to the center2 and the head is the center from a darning-cotton spool1 shaped down at one end for a neck1 and with eyes1 nose1 and mouth cut in on one side4 ,figure #aac shows the diagrams for the front and back of the body1 the arms1 and the legs4 ,these are cut out of cigar-box wood4 ,cut the neck stick ,a long enough to run through the head and hat1 with a square block on the end to fit between the body pieces4 ,the blocks ,b should be of the same thickness as block ,a4 ,bore the pivotal holes through the arms and legs in the positions shown1 using a small gimlet or red-hot nail with which to do the boring1 and tie a piece of heavy linen thread through each as shown4 ,the arms and legs are pivoted on brads driven through the front of the body into the back4 ,when the body has been fastened together1 bring the ends of the threads together1 and tie to a small ring2 also knot the threads close to the body to keep them together4 ,in painting ,jack1 you might provide him with a red coat1 blue trousers and a blue hat1 white stockings1 and black shoes4 ,a ,cricket-rattle is about the liveliest form of rattle ever devised 7,fig4 #aad74 ,after constructing one for your sister or brother1 you probably will decide to make one for yourself4 ,for this rattle1 first prepare a notched spool 7,a1 ,fig4 #aaf74 ,the notches in this need not be cut as perfectly as shown1 but the notches in one end of the spool must be exactly opposite those in the other end4 ,whittle the handle ,b to the shape and size shown1 cut the strips ,c out of cigar-box wood1 and prepare the block ,d as shown4 ,the groove in the edge of ,d is cut of just the right width to receive the end of the wooden strip ,e4 ,the length of ,e is best determined after nailing the ends of strips ,c to ,d1 and slipping the handle through the holes in strips ,c and spool ,a4 ,it should extend from the groove in ,d into the notches in ,a4 ,make it as wide as the spool is high4 ,paint the rattle red or blue4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aaf4--;,details of the ,noisy ,cricket-rattle shown ,fig4 #aad4 ,the ,turtle ,toy which crawls along the floor when you alternately pull and slacken a thread that runs through its shell1 has always been one of the most popular of mechanical toys1 and you will be surprised to find how easily our home-made model shown in ,fig4 #aae is put together4 ,the shell is a small tin mold such as is used for molding jellies4 ,one about #d inches long costs #aj cents4 ,a mold having the form of a bunch of grapes is a pretty good form for the turtle shell1 as you will see by the illustrations4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aad4--,,whirling ,,the ,,cricket-,,rattle ,,makes ,,it ,,chirp4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aae4--,,the ,,crawling ,,turtle',s ,,shell ,,is ,a ,,jelly ,,mould4 ,the head1 the tail1 and the four feet are cut out of tin from a can1 and bent into the forms shown in ,fig4 #aag4 ,then slits are cut through the narrow rim of the mold by piercing the tin with the point of a nail at the proper places for attaching them1 as shown in the small detail drawing1 and the tab ends are pushed through the slits1 bent over1 and clinched with a pair of pincers4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aag4--;,how ,head1 ,feet1 and ,tail are ,attached to a ,jelly ,mould to ,make the ,turtle shown in ,fig4 #aae4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aah4--,the ,spool ,wheels and the ,rubber-bands which ,propel them4 ,a thread spool #a-a_/d inches long forms the wheels on which the turtle runs1 and two rubber-bands #a-a_/b inches long propel it4 ,cut a piece of a lead pencil a trifle longer then the spool1 split it into halves1 remove the lead1 and insert the rubber bands in the groove2 then slip the piece of pencil into the hole in the spool 7,fig4 #aah74 ,the rubber-band ends must project an equal distance beyond the spool-ends4 ,before fastening the spool to the tin mold shell1 tie the end of a piece of heavy linen thread to its center1 and then wind about twenty turns about it4 ,pierce a hole through each side of the mold a trifle in front of the center1 and after slipping pieces of string through the ends of the rubber-bands 7,fig4 #aah71 tie them through the holes pierced through the sides of the mold4 ,pierce a hole through the shell1 directly over the center of the spool1 slip the free end of the thread wound on the spool through this hole1 and tie it to a fancy-work ring 7,fig4 #aag74 ,to ,make the ,turtle ,crawl1 place it upon the floor1 pull on the ring1 and as the thread unwinds from the spool the rubber-bands will twist2 then slacken the thread1 and the turtle will crawl along the floor4 ,as the rubber-bands untwist1 the thread will wind up on the spool again4 ,continue pulling and slackening the thread alternately1 and the turtle will continue to crawl4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,home-,,made ,,tops ,there are many styles of tops1 probably more than you ever dreamed of1 and it will surprise you to hear that the owners of some of the most curious forms are bearded men who take as much delight as any girl or boy in spinning them4 ,a few years ago on ,murray ,island1 which is way down among the ,south ,sea ,islands1 top spinning took such a strong hold upon the attention of the natives that they neglected their work1 and families often were without food1 boys and girls having to go to school hungry4 ,matters became so serious1 in fact1 as a result of this fad for top spinning1 that1 finally1 the head chieftain was compelled to restrict it to certain days4 ,there are many experts among these ,south ,sea ,islanders4 ,the men sing songs while their tops spin1 cheer them on1 and take the greatest precautions to shelter them from wind4 ,an eye witness of a contest reported that the winning top spun #bg minutes1 which you must admit is a pretty long time4 ,whip-tops and peg-tops of several varieties can be purchased at the corner candy store1 but the kinds ,i am going to show you how to make cannot be bought anywhere4 ,clock ,wheel ,tops4 ,a splendid spinner can be made of the little balance-wheel of a broken clock 7,fig4 #aai74 ,this little wheel is so accurately made that it will spin very steadily from a minute and one-half to two minutes4 ,as the ends of this wheel's axle are pointed1 the top will stand in one spot as long as it spins4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #aai and #abj4--;,clock ,wheel ,tops4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aba4--,upholstering ,tack ,top4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abb4--;,how to ,hold ,upholstering ,tack for ,spinning4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #abc and #abd4--;,details of ,spool ,top4 ,the toothed wheel shown in ,fig4 #abj1 or any of the other forms of wheels from a clockwork will make good spinners1 yet1 unless you file their pivot ends to points1 they will not spin in one spot but will glide and hop over the table in spirals4 ,the friction thus produced decreases the length of time that they will spin1 but makes them none the less interesting as tops4 ,great fun may be had spinning these wheel tops around the balance-wheel top1 while the latter is spinning4 ,figure #abi shows how to hold a clock wheel between the thumb and first finger1 for spinning4 ,start it with a snapping movement of the fingers4 ,a ,rug-tack ,top4 ,a rug tack or large upholstering tack is another good spinner4 ,while the clockwork wheels are spun by twirling them by means of the upper end of the pivots1 the tack top is spun by holding the spinning point between the thumb and first finger1 as shown in ,fig4 #abb1 then giving it a quick twirl and dropping it upon a table4 ,the tack top is an eccentric spinner4 ,first it hops about in a very lively fashion2 then1 when you think it is about ready to topple over1 it regains its balance and for some seconds spins quite as steadily as the clockwork balance-wheel top4 ,the tack top can be spun upon its head as well as upon its point4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abe4--;,a ,shoe-polish ,can ,top4 ,a ,spool ,top4 ,the top in ,fig4 #abc is made from a half of a spool and a short piece of lead-pencil4 ,saw a spool into halves1 and then taper one half from its beveled end to the center4 ,sharpen the piece of pencil to a point1 and push it through the spool until its point projects just a trifle4 ,spin the spool top in the same way as the clock wheel tops4 ,a ,spinning ,top ,race-track4 ,by drawing a track upon a piece of cardboard1 as shown in ,fig4 #abi1 with an opening on the inside1 great fun may be had by starting any one of the small tops just described1 with the exception of the balance-wheel top1 in the center of the space inside of the track1 and tilting the cardboard so as to cause the top to spin through the opening on to the track1 and around the track4 ,there is a trick in keeping the top from running off the track that can be acquired only with practice4 ,a ,shoe-polish ,can ,top 7,fig4 #abe74 ,this is a sure-enough good looking top1 and it spins as well as it looks4 ,it is made of a pencil1 a cone-shaped piece cut from a spool1 similar to the top shown in ,fig4 #abc1 and an empty shoe-polish can4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #abf-abh4--;,details of ,shoe-polish ,can ,top4 ,the dotted line in ,fig4 #abf indicates how the end of the pencil sticks through a hole in the shoe-polish can1 then through the cone-shaped piece of spool4 ,the hole through the can must be located in the exact center1 so the top will balance properly4 ,to find the center1 place the box bottom down upon a piece of paper1 and with a pencil draw a line around it4 ,cut the paper along the center1 and you will have a piece the shape and size of the can bottom4 ,fold the piece in half1 then in half again the other way 7,fig4 #abg71 open it up1 and the intersection of the two folds1 indicated by dotted lines in ,fig4 #abh1 will be the exact center4 ,with the center located1 place the piece of paper first upon the bottom1 then upon the top of the can1 and punch a hole through the center of it and the can1 with the point of a large nail4 ,increase the size of the hole enough to admit the pencil4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #abi4--;,a ,spinning ,top ,race-track4 ,spin this top in the manner shown in ,fig4 #abe4 ,hold the upper part of the pencil between your hands1 with the palms together1 and slide your hands back and forth1 first slowly1 then rapidly4 ,release it so as to cause it to drop squarely upon its point upon a level wooden surface4 ,the steadiness of this top's spinning will depend entirely upon the accuracy with which you cut the center hole for the pencil4 ,a ,spiral ,top4 ,the top in ,fig4 #acj presents a curious appearance while spinning1 the spiral design upon it seeming to change its form as the top revolves4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acj4--;,a ,spiral ,top4 ,the only difference between the construction of this top and the shoe-polish can top is in the substitution of the spiral disk for the polish can4 ,a pencil and cone-shaped piece of spool are required as in the case of the other top4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aca4--;,diagram of ,spiral for ,spiral ,top4 ,the spiral design for the disk1 shown in ,fig4 #aca1 is large enough so you can make a tracing of it on a piece of transparent paper1 and then trace it off upon a piece of cardboard4 ,fill in alternate rings with black ink or water-color1 in the way shown1 then cut out the disk1 pierce a hole through its exact center to fit over the pencil end1 and glue the under side to the top of the cone-shaped piece of spool4 ,spin this top in the same way as the shoe-polish can top is spun 7,fig4 #abe74 ,a ,merry-go-round ,top 7,fig4 #acb7 is a new idea easily carried out4 ,you will require a cardboard disk #ab inches in diameter1 three spools1 a pencil1 and some light-weight cardboard4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acb4--;,a ,merry-go-round ,top4 ,figure #acc shows the details for this top4 ,if you haven't a compass1 use a large-sized dinner plate with which to draw the circumference of the disk 7,a74 ,then cut a conical-shaped piece of spool 7,b71 stick the lead-pencil through it for a spinning point 7,c71 punch a hole through the disk to fit over the pencil1 and tack the disk to ,b4 ,cut off a third of the length of a ribbon spool for ,e1 and fasten another spool 7,d7 to the top of the pencil4 ,spool ,d should be glued fast to the pencil1 and the spool-end ,e should turn loosely upon it4 ,coat the lower part of the pencil with glue so it will stick fast in ,b4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acc4--;,detail of ,merry-go-round ,top4 ,how the ,top ,spins4 ,when you have made this much of the top1 spin it to see how it works4 ,wrap the spinning cord--a strong light-weight wrapping-twine--about spool ,d1 in the same manner that you wind the cord on any top2 then1 holding spool end ,e with the left hand 7,fig4 #acb71 pull steadily upon the cord with the right hand until all is unwound1 and gently drop the top upon its spinning point4 ,to get the best results1 the cardboard used for the disk platform must be very straight4 ,if it warps1 flatten it by pressing it under a pile of books4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acd4--;,how ,horses are ,mounted upon ,top ,platform4 ,horses and ,riders for the merry-go-round may be prepared like those of the clockwork merry-go-round in ,chapter ,x 7,figs4 #adc1 #adf1 and #adg74 ,figure #acd shows how two burnt matches or toothpicks are lashed to the legs of the horses for supports1 and ,fig4 #acc shows how holes are pierced through the disk platform to stick them in4 ,a ,flag mounted upon spool ,d will make the merry-go-round top complete4 ,,chapter ,x ,,home-,,made ,,clockwork ,,toys ,the toys shown opposite page #ij are a few of the many mechanical toys which can be operated by clockwork1 and they are easy to make1 too1 requiring no more mechanical ability than is possessed by the average boy old enough to handle the simplest of tools4 ,generally it is easy to find an old clock somewhere about the house1 and a clock which has been discarded simply because it has become worthless as a timekeeper is perfectly good for operating these toys1 provided the mainspring is in working order4 ,it is not necessary to have a set of works for each toy1 for they are so quickly fastened in place that but a minute is required to transfer the works from one toy to another4 ,before commencing work upon the toys1 get together ,the ,other ,necessary ,materials4 ,these will consist of cigar boxes1 cardboard1 cotton or silk spools1 glue1 brads1 and a few pieces from the woodpile1 with one or two additional articles which are mentioned later on4 ,brads #e_/h inch and #a inch in length should be purchased for fastening the framework of the toys together1 and the cigar boxes should be about #h inches by #d inches by #b inches in size4 ,remove the paper from the boxes as described on page #age4 ,to ,prepare the ,clockwork for use1 remove it from its case1 detach the hands and face1 and pry off the small wheel pivoted directly under the hands2 this wheel is shown at ,a in ,fig4 #aci4 ,remove also the balance-wheel ,b 7,fig4 #aci7 and the lever ,c pivoted next to it1 to increase the speed of the remaining wheels4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aci4--;,how the ,clockwork ,motor is ,fastened to the ,cigar-box ,cover4 7,this ,box has been cut down to the ,proper ,length for the ,ferris ,wheel47 ,fasten the clockwork motor for ,the ,merry-go-round shown in ,fig4 #ace to the cover of a cigar box1 as illustrated in ,figs4 #acf and #aci1 boring holes through the cover with a gimlet for the pivot ends on the back of the works to set into4 ,remove the lower flange from a spool 7,d1 ,fig4 #aci7 and fasten the spool on to the central pivot of the clockwork in the position formerly occupied by wheel ,a4 ,the hole in the spool will be too large for the pivot and must be filled up with sealing-wax4 ,to do this1 hold a piece of sealing-wax above the spool and melt it with a lighted match1 allowing it to drip into the hole until the latter is about half full1 then press the wax down with the end of a match until it is compact1 smooth it off on the bottom of the spool1 and make a dent in it with a pencil to indicate the exact center of the hole4 ,heat the end of the pivot with a lighted match1 and press it into the dent in the wax1 being careful in doing so to get the spool straight upon the pivot4 ,cut a hole through the bottom of the cigar box belonging to the cover to which you have attached the works1 for spool ,d to project through 7,fig4 #aci74 ,to ,make the ,standard for the merry-go-round1 cut four strips of wood #h inches long1 and fasten one to each corner of the cigar box1 turning the bottom side of the box up2 then cut a piece of #a_/b-;inch board #aj inches square1 locate its center ,f by drawing diagonal lines from corner to corner as shown in ,fig4 #adj1 bore a #a-;inch hole through it at this point for spool ,d 7,fig4 #acf71 and then nail the box to the center of the board as shown in ,fig4 #adj4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ace4 ,a ,,merry-,,go-,,round4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acf4 ,a ,,clockwork ,,motor4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #acg4 ,a ,,ferris ,,wheel4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ach4 ,,the ,,flying ,,airships4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adj4--,plan of ,top of ,standard for ,merry-go-round4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ada4--,pattern for ,tent of ,merry-go-round4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adb4--,the ,tent ready to be ,fastened upon a ,tent-pole4 ,the ,tent should be laid out upon heavy white paper as shown in ,fig4 #ada4 ,after describing a circle with a radius of #i inches1 describe another circle within it with a radius of #g-a_/b inches1 this inner circle 7shown by dotted lines in the diagram7 being drawn for a guide in fastening the tent upon its tent-poles4 ,cut out the tent along the outer circle1 and from it cut a triangular piece about the size of that included between lines ,,kl and ,,ml in the diagram4 ,cover the under edge of ,,kl and the upper edge of ,,ml with glue1 lap ,,kl over to about ,,nl1 and rub down the edges with a cloth to make as neat a joint between the pieces as possible 7,fig4 #adb74 ,bore a hole through each corner of the standard top 7,g1 ,h1 ,i1 and ,j1 ,fig4 #adj71 then cut four sticks #g inches long1 sandpaper them until smooth1 and glue them into these holes for ,the ,tent-poles4 ,when the tent has dried1 tack it to the ends of the poles1 being careful to make it set evenly upon them2 cut a scalloped border out of red or blue paper and paste it to the edge all around as shown in ,fig4 #ace1 and stick a small flag in the peak4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adc4--;,full-size ,pattern for the ,horses of the ,merry-go-round4 ,the ,horses4 ,a full-size pattern for these is shown in ,fig4 #adc4 ,take a piece of tracing-paper or any thin transparent paper1 and place it over the pattern and make an exact copy2 then rub a soft lead-pencil over the other side of the paper1 turn the paper over with the blackened side down1 and transfer the drawing six times upon a piece of light-weight cardboard4 ,paint the horses with water-colors1 using the pattern as a guide for shading and marking them1 then cut them out with a sharp knife or a pair of scissors4 ,figure #add shows the pattern for ,the ,sleighs4 ,draw this out upon a piece of cardboard1 cut it out and fold along the dotted lines1 then turn in the flaps and glue them to the dashboard and to the back4 ,cut two seats by the pattern given1 bend down the flaps and glue them to the sides of the sleigh1 and make the back for the front seat like that on the back seat 7,fig4 #ade74 ,then make another sleigh similar to the one just completed1 for two are required for the merry-go-round4 ,paint the sleighs green or yellow with trimmings of a lighter shade4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #add4--,pattern for the ,merry-go-round ,sleighs4 ,figure #acf shows ,the ,shafts upon which the horses and sleighs are mounted4 ,cut them #e-a_/b inches long1 whittle them round1 and rub them down with sandpaper4 ,the shafts are fastened in a spool hub which has five holes bored in it 7,e1 ,fig4 #acf72 bore the holes with a gimlet or small drill1 marking them off first with a pencil to be sure of getting them spaced at equal distances4 ,point the ends of the shafts and glue them into the holes in the hub1 then connect this spool to spool ,d with a piece of a lead-pencil #b inches long 7,fig4 #acf74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ade4--;,a ,completed ,sleigh showing ,attachment to ,shaft4 ,to fasten the horses to the shafts1 punch a hole through three of them at ,x 7,fig4 #adc7 and slip each one over a shaft1 then tack the other three horses to the ends of these shafts at the point ,x4 ,to fasten the sleighs to the remaining shafts1 glue one end of a piece of paper to the back of the front seat and the other end around the shaft 7,fig4 #ade74 ,the ,girl ,riders for the sleighs are shown full size in ,fig4 #adf1 and ,the ,boy ,riders for the horses are shown full size in ,fig4 #adg4 ,make tracings from the patterns as you made that of the horse and prepare four girls and six boys4 ,paint their clothes in bright colors4 ,cut a second leg for each boy rider1 so he can be made to sit astride of his horse1 and glue the leg to his hip as shown in ,fig4 #adh4 ,cut a slit in each seat of the sleigh and stick the flaps on the girl riders in them4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adf4--;,full-size ,pattern for the ,girl ,riders4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adg4--;,full-size ,pattern for the ,boy ,riders4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adh4--;,how the ,second ,leg of the ,boy is ,attached4 ,for the ,platform shown directly under the horses and sleighs in ,fig4 #ace1 cut a piece of cardboard #aa inches in diameter2 if you choose to make the ,ferris wheel before the merry-go-round1 you may use the center pieces removed in cutting out the rims1 as noted in ,fig4 #aec4 ,punch a hole through the center of this disk large enough for the peg connecting spools ,d and ,e to slip through4 ,this platform rests upon the top of spool ,d and revolves with it4 ,to ,operate the ,merry-go-round4 ,the key by which the mainspring is wound up is shown screwed in place on the under side of the cigar-box cover in ,fig4 #aci4 ,while winding the mainspring1 it will be necessary to have some means of checking it so it will not unwind at the same time1 and the best scheme for a check is to bore a small gimlet hole through the cover of the cigar box and stick a match through this and run it between the spokes of one of the clock wheels so as to prevent it from turning4 ,then when you have wound up the spring and are ready to start the merry-go-round1 all you have to do is to pull out the match4 ,the model of this toy which the author has before him runs for five minutes with one winding1 and any boy can make one which will run as well if he follows the directions given and uses a reasonable amount of carefulness in the work4 ,other ,animals than horses may be used if you wish to follow the arrangement of some of the latest merry-go-rounds1 and pictures of these may be found among the colored cut-outs sold in the stationery stores1 or if you can draw well1 you may copy them from books and magazines4 ,great fun may be had by changing the positions of the boy riders1 making them ride backward part of the time and sometimes two and three boys on a horse4 ,doubtless you have heard of the famous ,ferris wheel1 and a good many of you have ridden in the smaller wheels patterned after it1 at the amusement parks1 so you will be interested in making ,a ,miniature ,ferris ,wheel like the one shown in ,fig4 #acg4 ,the ,standard for supporting the wheel 7,fig4 #adi7 consists of two triangular supports1 one with a spool hub fastened to its top for the axle of the wheel to run through and the other with the cigar box inclosing the clockwork fastened to it4 ,figures #aej1 #aea1 and #aeb show the construction of these supports4 ,cut strips ,p and ,q #ab inches long and ,r #aj inches long1 and trim off the upper ends of ,p and ,q so when they are nailed together the lower ends will be #h inches apart2 nail strip ,r to the lower ends of ,p and ,q 7,fig4 #aej74 ,to fasten the spool hub to its support1 smear one side of a piece of tape with glue and wind it several times around the spool 7,fig4 #aea71 then set the spool on top of the support and press the ends of the tape against the sides of strips ,p and ,q 7,fig4 #aeb74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #adi4--,standard for the ,ferris ,wheel4 ,the ,clockwork ,motor for the ,ferris wheel is fastened to the cover of a cigar box just as that for the merry-go-round was fastened 7,fig4 #aci71 but the length of the box is cut down as much as the clockwork will allow to make the box as square and compact as possible4 ,it is very necessary to have the axle bearings exactly on a line in order to have the wheel run smoothly1 so1 in fastening the cigar box to its support1 be sure that the center of the hole in spool ,d 7,fig4 #aci7 is on a level with the spool hub on the opposite support4 ,nail the supports to a #aj-;inch by #ab-;inch board1 #h inches apart1 and fasten a cigar box between them for ,the ,station ,platform 7,fig4 #adi74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aej4--,make ,two ,supports like this for the ,ferris ,wheel ,standard4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #aea and #aeb4--;,how a ,spool is ,fastened to the ,top of the ,support for a ,hub4 ,to ,make the ,wheel1 first lay out the rims upon a piece of heavy cardboard1 using the radii shown in ,fig4 #aec for describing the circles1 then lay the sheet of cardboard upon a board and ,cut out the ,rims with a sharp knife1 being careful not to run off of the pencil line4 ,the ,hubs of the wheel are spools with six holes bored in them for the spokes to fit in 7,fig4 #aef74 ,cut six ,spokes #e-c_/d inches long by #a_/h inch thick for each hub1 and cut a slot in one end of each for the cardboard rims to fit in 7,figs4 #aed and #aeg74 ,use a saw rather than a knife in making the slots1 for it will make a kerf of just the right width to receive the cardboard and will not be so apt to split the ends of the slender spokes4 ,whittle the hub ends of the spokes to fit the holes in the spool hubs 7,figs4 #aed and #aeg74 ,in ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aec4--;,how to ,lay out the ,cardboard ,rims of the ,ferris ,wheel4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aed4--,the ,spokes ,fitted into the ,spool ,hub4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aee4--,the ,rim ,slipped into the ,end of the ,spokes4 ,putting together the ,spokes1 ,hubs1 and ,rims of the wheel1 first stick three spokes in a hub and slip a rim into the slots in their ends1 then stick the remaining spokes into the hub1 one at a time1 and spread the rim enough so it can be slipped into their slots 7,fig4 #aee74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aef4--;,a ,spool ,hub for the ,wheel4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aeg4--;,how the ,spokes1 ,rims1 and ,axles are ,fastened ,together4 ,when the hubs1 rims1 and spokes have been assembled1 lay them aside and get some heavy wrapping-paper or thin cardboard out of which ,to ,make the ,cars4 ,the pattern for the cars is shown in ,fig4 #aeh1 and on it you will find all the dimensions necessary for laying it out to the proper size4 ,it will be understood that the unfigured portions of the drawing are the same as those with dimensions marked upon them4 ,the dotted lines at the door and window openings indicate where the cutting is to be done1 while all other dotted lines indicate where the cardboard is to be scored and folded4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aeh4--,pattern for the ,ferris ,wheel ,cars4 ,use a ruler in making the drawing of the car to get the lines straight1 and when you have finished it go over it carefully and compare it with the illustration to be sure it is correct1 after which make a careful tracing of it1 turn it over and transfer the drawing five times upon cardboard4 ,these and your original drawing will give you the required number of cars4 ,cut out the openings with a sharp knife and then do the rest of the cutting with a pair of scissors2 punch a #a_/d-;inch hole in each end of each car with a lead-pencil 7,fig4 #aeh71 being careful to get the holes exactly opposite4 ,in folding and gluing the cars1 slip the flaps inside and bend the roofs so they will follow the curve of the ends 7,fig4 #aei74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aei4--;,a ,completed ,car for the ,ferris ,wheel4 ,when the cars have been completed1 cut six sticks #e inches long1 whittle them down until they are about #c_/af inch in diameter1 and sandpaper them until they are perfectly round and smooth4 ,these sticks connect the rims of the wheel and form ,the ,axles from which the cars are hung 7,fig4 #aei74 ,great care must be used in fastening them between the rims1 for they are easily split1 and the best way to do is to start a hole first in the ends of each axle with an awl or by driving a brad part way in and then withdrawing it2 then drive a brad through each spoke of one rim into an axle 7,fig4 #aeg72 slip the other ends of the axles through the holes in the ends of the cars 7,fig4 #aei71 and nail the spokes of the other rim to them4 ,to ,mount the ,wheel upon its standard1 whittle an axle #h-a_/b inches long to fit the hubs1 then hold the wheel between the two uprights1 with the hubs on a line with the spool bearings and run the axle through the holes 7,fig4 #acg74 ,build ,steps at each end of the platform out of heavy writing-paper or light cardboard4 ,fold the paper or cardboard back and forth1 making pleats about #a_/d inch wide for the steps1 and after gluing it in place cut out the balustrades and glue them to the edges of the steps4 ,make the top step low enough so there will be about #a_/d-;inch clearance between it and the bottom of the cars 7,fig4 #acg74 ,after you have made a final inspection to see that everything has been put together properly1 your toy will be ready for operation1 and ,i am sure that when you set the clockwork machinery in motion1 and the little wheel begins to revolve slowly with each little car balancing upon its axle1 you will agree that you have constructed a very interesting toy4 ,the ,flying ,airships is a riding device consisting of a number of cars suspended by steel cables from large arms pivoted to the top of a tower4 ,when the machinery is started1 the arms begin to revolve slowly1 and the motion produced causes the cars to swing out away from the center4 ,as the speed of the arms increases1 the cars swing out farther and farther1 until when the highest speed has been reached the cables by which the cars are suspended have taken an oblique position and raised the cars some distance above the ground2 then the speed of the engine is gradually diminished1 and the cars finally regain their former position4 ,this piece of apparatus is also known as an aerostat4 ,you will find the miniature flying airships 7,fig4 #ach7 easy to construct after making a merry-go-round or ,ferris wheel1 as many of its details are identical with those of the other toys4 ,the ,standard for the toy is made similar to the one for the merry-go-round 7,fig4 #ace71 except that the top board is omitted and a circular piece of cardboard of the size of the disks removed in cutting out the rims of the ,ferris wheel is substituted in its place4 ,cut a hole through the exact center of the piece large enough so it will fit over spool ,d 7,fig4 #acf74 ,cut a ,mast about #ad inches long and of the diameter of the hole in the spool and stick it into spool ,d2 then #c inches below the top of the mast fasten a spool with four horizontal arms #f inches long glued into holes bored in it4 ,fasten a crosspiece #d-a_/b inches long to the end of each arm with brads1 and from these suspend ,cars made similar to those of the ,ferris wheel1 with cords4 ,set a small flag in a hole bored in the top of the mast and then run cords from the top of the mast out to the ends of the arm pieces4 ,with this toy the cars cannot be swung out obliquely as on the large flying airships except by ,increasing the ,speed of the ,clockwork4 ,this can be accomplished by removing one or two of the wheels of the clockwork1 but it is not advisable to take out more than one wheel in addition to those removed for the merry-go-round 7,fig4 #aci7 because the mainspring would require rewinding too often to make the toy enjoyable4 ,an ,electric ,motor can be belted to these toys as a substitute for the clockwork1 if you own one and prefer to try it out4 ,the clockwork toys just described were invented by the author for his book ,handicraft for ,handy ,boys1 and were the first designs1 he believes1 devised for home-made mechanical toys of this nature4 ,no doubt you have noticed that manufacturers of the so-called construction sets--steel and wood strips supplied with bolts and screws for assembling--have used these very same forms of models to show what can be made with their outfits4 ,but your ,ferris wheel1 merry-go-round1 and aerostat1 built as described in this chapter1 with materials picked up at home1 will be the equal of any that can be built1 and you will have the satisfaction of knowing that you haven't required an expensive construction set for making them4 ,all sorts of toy vehicles can be operated by clockwork4 ,figure #afj shows ,an ,automobile1 and ,fig4 #afa shows how the clockwork motor is mounted upon the chassis and belted to the driving wheel4 ,the same scheme that was used for the cars of the toy railway described in ,chapter ,,vi will be followed in making ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afj4 ,,the ,,car ,,completed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afa4 ,,the ,,framework4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #afb4--,top ,view of ,wooden ,frame4 ,the ,frame of the automobile1 as that is about the simplest way1 and makes a light1 easy-running vehicle4 ,the bed will be cut of a different pattern1 however1 as will be seen in ,fig4 #afb4 ,lay out the piece to the dimensions shown upon this drawing1 and then cut it out1 making a mortise in each end for the wheels to fit in4 ,the spool wheels should be mounted in the same manner as those of the railway cars1 for which see ,fig4 #hj1 ,chapter ,,vi1 and the directions upon page #ea4 ,one end of spool ,a should be pivoted with a longer finishing nail than those used for the other pivots1 so that when driven in place about half an inch will project beyond the frame4 ,a small silk spool should be fastened upon this for a belt-wheel 7see ,b1 ,fig4 #afb74 ,the hole in one of these spools is about three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter1 so1 in order to make it fit tightly upon the nail1 it is necessary to fill in around the nail with sealing-wax4 ,to do this1 turn the wooden frame upon its edge and place the spool over the nail1 being careful to get the nail in the exact center of the hole4 ,then hold a stick of sealing-wax over the spool1 and with a lighted match melt the end and allow it to drip into the hole4 ,when the hole has been partially filled1 allow the wax to harden a little1 and then press it down around the nail with the end of a match1 being careful not to throw the spool out of center by doing so4 ,the hole should then be filled to the top4 ,we are now ready to prepare the clockwork for mounting upon the wooden frame4 ,the works shown in ,fig4 #afa are from an alarm clock1 but if you have a striking clock1 or one with works a little different from those shown in the illustration1 it does not make a bit of difference in the scheme for attaching the works4 ,the three parts shown in the foreground of ,fig4 #afa must first be removed from the works4 ,these will be recognized readily in any clock1 as they are pivoted close together1 and regulate the speed of the other wheels4 ,when they have been removed1 the mainspring will unwind rapidly4 ,the frame of the works shown in the illustration is held together with nuts1 so that in removing the wheels it was necessary to unscrew two of them1 spring the frame open enough to let the wheels drop out1 and then replace the nuts again in their former positions4 ,if the frame of your clockwork is riveted together1 the wheels will have to be broken out4 ,a small silk spool1 such as ,b 7,fig4 #afb71 should be fastened upon the small pivot which originally operated the clock's hands1 for a belt-wheel4 ,lay the works upon a table with the face-side down1 and1 after centering the hole of the spool upon the pivot1 fasten it in place with sealing-wax in the same manner as you attached spool ,b 7,fig4 #afa74 ,the works should now be attached to the wooden frame4 ,place them with the striker uppermost1 near the edge of the frame1 so that the small belt-wheels are in line with one another4 ,then bore a number of gimlet holes in the wooden frame and run copper wire through them1 passing it around the posts of the clock-frame and twisting its ends until the works are firmly fastened in place4 ,a rubber band about an eighth of an inch wide and long enough to reach from one belt-wheel to the other should be procured for ,the ,belt4 ,this should stretch just enough to cling upon the spools1 as more than that would cause too much friction4 ,before going any further with the construction of the automobile ,test the ,machine1 to be sure that it is in perfect running order4 ,wind up the mainspring1 pressing a finger against one of the wheels to hold it in check until you are ready to start the machine4 ,when properly made1 the clockwork automobile should run a distance of from twenty to twenty-five feet upon a wooden floor1 while about three-quarters of that distance should be covered upon a floor with a fairly smooth carpet4 ,the ,cardboard ,sides and other details of the automobile should now be made4 ,the patterns for these have been so shown in ,figs #afc to #agj that they can easily be laid out to the proper shape and size by means of the process of enlarging by squares described on page #age1 ,chapter ,,xvii4 ,white cardboard should be used upon which to draw these pieces1 and the thinner it is the easier you will find it to work with4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #afc-agj4--,patterns for the ,automobile ,touring-car4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aga4--;,chauffeur4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #agb4--;,cardboard ,side of ,automobile4 ,first prepare the two sides1 cutting them out by the pattern of ,fig4 #afc4 ,then glue the bottom edge of each side to the edge of the wooden frame1 cutting holes in the left side for the belt-wheels and projecting posts to run through 7see ,fig4 #afj and ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d1 and ,e1 ,fig4 #agb74 ,the top to the front of the car should now be cut as shown in ,fig4 #agc1 the distance between the sides being measured to get the piece of proper dimensions4 ,bend the edges as in ,fig4 #agc1 and glue them to the inner surfaces of the side pieces as shown by the dotted lines in ,fig4 #agb4 ,in the same way cut and glue a piece of cardboard between the side pieces at ,g and ,h 7,fig4 #agb7 for the seat-backs4 ,the bent edges of these pieces are shown by dotted lines in the illustration4 ,draw four ,wheels as shown in ,fig4 #afd1 using a compass with which to describe the circles1 and cut them out with a sharp knife4 ,you can cut out between the spokes1 if you wish1 or leave them solid4 ,glue the wheels to the cardboard1 placing their centers about as located at ,i and ,j1 ,fig4 #agb4 ,four ,mud-,guards should be cut like ,fig4 #afe1 with flaps made along one edge4 ,then bend these guards around the tops of the wheels1 and1 after applying glue to the flaps1 press them against the cardboard side1 holding your fingers upon the flaps until the glue has dried 7see ,fig4 #afj74 ,the guards should be placed a little above the tops of the wheels4 ,cut four ,lamps like ,fig4 #aff and glue end ,k of two upon the front of the automobile at ,l 7,fig4 #agb7 and one of the other two upon each side at ,m4 ,these lamps are shown in position in the illustration of the completed automobile 7,fig4 #afj74 ,draw and cut ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #agc4--,the ,hood4 ,the ,steering-wheel similar to ,fig4 #afg1 and1 after pivoting it to the end of a strip of cardboard with a pin as shown in ,fig4 #agd1 bend the lower end and glue it to the under side of the cardboard top ,f at ,n 7see ,fig4 #agb1 also ,fig4 #afj74 ,make a ,horn like ,fig4 #afh and glue it to the steering-wheel as shown in ,fig4 #agd4 ,a strip of cardboard about the size of that used for the upright of the steering-wheel should be cut for ,the ,brake1 and glued to the inside surface of the right side of the car at ,o 7,fig4 #agb74 ,the ,chauffeur should now be made4 ,cut his head and body the shape and size of ,fig4 #afi1 drawing the face upon each side with goggles over the eyes4 ,cut the arms in two pieces the shape of ,p and ,q 7,fig4 #agj71 and then pivot ,p to ,q at ,r and the end of ,q to the shoulder of the body at ,s1 using thread for fastening the pieces together4 ,paint the hat1 coat1 sleeves1 and gloves a leather color1 and the face flesh color4 ,the body should then be fastened to the hammer of the clockworks with sealing-wax1 as shown in ,fig4 #aga1 while the left hand should be glued to the edge of the steering-wheel and the right to the end of the brake 7see ,fig4 #afj74 ,by thus attaching the body to the end of the hammer1 and winding up the small spring1 the chauffeur will shake violently when the auto runs across the floor1 showing the vibrations of the machine in a greatly exaggerated and amusing manner4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #agd4--,the ,steering-wheel4 ,it is now only necessary to ,paint the ,machine to complete it4 ,the photograph 7,fig4 #afj7 shows where different colors are needed4 ,the lamps1 top1 ends1 and sides of the front portion of the car should be painted the color of brass1 and the rest of the sides1 with the exception of a strip along the bottom and the edge of the arms1 should be painted vermilion4 ,paint the inside of the car and the edges of the seat-arms tan color1 to represent leather upholstering4 ,with black paint1 or ink1 stripe off the door and trimmings upon the sides and top of the machine1 as shown in ,figs4 #afj1 #agb1 and #agc4 ,blacken the brake and steering-wheel and the spokes and rims of the wheels4 ,along the bottom of each side glue a strip of cardboard for the running-boards4 ,when you have tired of your touring-car1 you can easily convert it into ,an ,automobile ,delivery ,wagon1 such as illustrated in ,fig4 #age4 ,to make this you will require the same frame as that used for the touring-car1 with the clockworks and belt-wheels attached in the same manner4 ,if you have made the touring-car1 remove the cardboard sides from its wooden frame1 separating the cardboard from the wood carefully so you can put the machine together again when you wish4 ,if you haven't made this automobile1 you will find the details for the construction of the frame in ,figs4 #afa and #afb1 and the manner of performing the work described on pages #ajd to #ajg4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #age4--;,an ,automobile ,delivery ,wagon4 ,the ,cardboard ,sides are much easier to prepare than those for the touring-car1 as they are straight and require but little cutting4 ,the outline for these is shown in ,fig4 #age1 surrounding the drawing of the completed wagon4 ,lay out one side upon a piece of cardboard1 using the dimensions given upon the drawing1 and then place it upon a board and cut it out with your knife4 ,using this as a pattern1 place it upon another piece of cardboard and run a pencil around its edges1 thus marking out the second side4 ,in cutting out the latter piece1 run your knife a little inside of the line in order to allow for the increase in size caused by marking it out with the first cardboard side4 ,having prepared the two sides1 draw panels upon them in some such form as shown in the illustration1 separating them with three lines4 ,draw a small window1 with its top slightly arched1 near the front edge of each side1 and cut an opening for it 7see illustration74 ,glue the sides to the edges of the truck in the same manner as those of the touring-car were done1 piercing holes for the posts of the clockwork to fit in1 and openings for the belt-wheels to project through1 in the left side4 ,cut a piece of cardboard for the back of the wagon1 fit it between the sides1 and fasten it in place by gluing a number of linen strips to it and the sides upon the inner or unexposed surfaces4 ,then cut a piece of cardboard for the roof1 making it about two inches longer than the sides1 to give it the proper projection over the front of the wagon4 ,fasten this piece in position in the same manner as you fastened the back of the wagon4 ,make the floor and footboard for the wagon out of a piece of cardboard bent as shown in ,fig4 #age1 and fasten it across the top edges of the projecting portions of the sides with linen strips4 ,cut a strip for a seat1 and fit it between the sides an inch and one-half above the floor4 ,the ,wheels of an automobile wagon contain fourteen spokes1 but as you have the pattern for the touring-car wheels of twelve spokes1 you can just as well use it in making the wagon wheels4 ,they should be mounted upon the sides of the wagon1 a trifle above the bottoms of the spool wheels1 as shown in the illustration1 so they will not touch the carpet when the machine is operated4 ,all ,other ,portions of the wagon should be made of the same patterns given for the touring-car1 viz4 the chauffeur 7,figs4 #afi and #agj71 the steering-wheel 7,figs4 #afg and #agd71 the brake 7,fig4 #afj71 and the lamps 7,fig4 #aff74 ,as the legs of the chauffeur will show1 it will be necessary to cut a pair out of cardboard 7the drawing shows the shape clearly enough to work by7 and fasten them to his body4 ,fasten the chauffeur upon the seat and glue his left hand to the steering-wheel1 placing the latter in front of him1 as shown in the drawing4 ,stick the lower end of the cardboard upright of the steering-wheel upon a pin run through the wagon floor from the under side4 ,glue the upper end of the brake to the chauffeur's hand and the lower end to the side of the wagon4 ,paint the ,wagon with water colors1 making the sides1 end1 and roof olive green1 the steering-wheel1 brake1 and spokes of wheels black1 and the lamps yellow or the color of brass4 ,in painting the sides show the battery compartments upon them below what would properly be the bottom of the wagon 7see illustration74 ,leave the cardboard white below this box1 as it represents no portion of the machine1 but is necessarily brought down so far to conceal the wooden frame4 ,it will give the machine a more finished appearance if1 after painting1 you go over it with black paint and a fine brush and stripe the panels upon the sides1 following the lines which you drew upon them with a pencil4 ,letter the word ,delivery upon the center panel of each side1 and the firm name in the small panel between the lamp and window4 ,by attaching a set of clockworks in the same manner as described for the automobiles1 you can make ,a ,clockwork ,railway1 constructing the cars similar to the street car shown in ,fig4 #hd1 ,chapter ,,vi1 and using the schemes in the same chapter for the tracks and depots4 ,each car should be provided with a clockwork motor1 because a single clockwork is not strong enough to pull more than one car4 ,let me know how you succeed in building a clockwork railway4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,home-,,made ,,electrical ,,toys ,an entire volume might be filled with plans for electrical toys and yet not exhaust the innumerable forms that are within the ability of a boy to construct4 ,there is room in this chapter for only a few1 and ,i have selected simple ideas1 those that can be carried out by a boy having no knowledge of working with electricity1 with materials that can be obtained at an expenditure of little or nothing4 ,thus every boy will be able to make these electrical toys4 ,the ,electro-,magnet ,derrick shown in ,fig4 #agf will hoist nails and other small pieces of hardware from the floor to a table top1 and as the boom1 or arm1 can be swung from side to side1 and raised and lowered1 loads can be moved from place to place in the same way as with large derricks4 ,the toy derrick may be used for loading and unloading toy wagons1 carts1 and trains of cars1 provided1 of course1 you use iron or steel of some sort for your loads4 ,it is easy enough to get nails1 brads1 tacks1 and odd pieces of hardware for the purpose4 ,the model from which ,fig4 #agf was made has lifted a bunch of two hundred and eighty-four brads #c_/h inch long4 ,by using smaller brads1 or tacks1 a much larger number could be lifted4 ,the first part of the toy to construct is ,the ,electro-,magnet4 ,the difference between an electro-magnet and the toy variety of horse-shoe magnet with which every boy is familiar1 is that the electro-magnet retains its magnetism only so long as an electric current is passing around it1 while the steel magnet retains its influence permanently1 after being magnetized1 unless it happens to be demagnetized by subjection to heat1 or in some other way4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #agf4--;,an ,electro-,magnet ,derrick4 ,figures #agg to #agi show the details for making a simple home-made electro-magnet4 ,an electro-magnet consists of a center core of soft iron1 wrapped with a coil of insulated wire4 ,when an electric current passes over a wire1 a magnetic field is formed around the wire2 and when several turns of insulated wire are wrapped about a soft iron core1 the magnetic fields of all the turns of the coil1 or helix1 combine1 forming a very strong magnetic field which strongly magnetizes the iron core4 ,as ,i have said before1 this magnet loses its magnetic influence the instant the current ceases to pass through the surrounding coil of wire4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #agg-agi4--,the ,electro-,magnet4 ,you will need a machine-bolt or carriage-bolt #b-a_/b or #c inches long1 and #a_/d inch in diameter1 for the core of the magnet1 some insulated electric-bell wire for the coil1 and a piece of heavy cardboard4 ,cut three washers of a trifle larger diameter than the bolt-head1 out of the piece of cardboard 7,fig4 #agh71 and slip these over the bolt as shown in ,fig4 #agi--one at the bolt-head end1 the other two at the nut end2 then screw the nut on to the end of the bolt4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahj4--;,how the ,electro-,magnet is ,connected up4 ,before starting to wind the insulated wire upon the bolt1 pierce two holes through the inner cardboard washer of the two at the nut end4 ,then stick the end of the wire through one of these holes1 and pull a length of #d or #e inches of the wire out between the two washers4 ,starting at this end of the bolt1 then1 wind the wire around the bolt1 keeping the turns even and each turn pressed close against the preceding turn4 ,when the washer at the head end of the bolt has been reached1 wind back to the starting point2 then wind back to the washer at the head a second time1 and again back to the starting point2 and so on until six or eight layers of wire have been wound in place4 ,an even number of layers will bring the free end of the wire back to the double-washer end4 ,slip this end through the second hole in the inner washer1 and bring it out between the two washers1 as you did the first end4 ,then screw the bolt-nut tight against the washers1 to hold the wire ends in place 7,fig4 #agg74 ,the outer cardboard washer will prevent the nut from chafing the insulation on the wire ends4 ,now connect the ends of the coil to the binding-posts of a battery cell1 and you will be surprised to find what a strong magnet the head of the bolt core has become4 ,one end of the magnet coil should be connected to a dry-cell1 and the other to a switch2 and another wire should connect the switch with the dry-cell 7,fig4 #ahj74 ,a ,home-made ,switch that is easily made is shown in ,fig4 #aha4 ,cut strips ,a1 ,b1 and ,c 7,fig4 #ahb7 from a tomato can4 ,tack the turned up ends of ,a to a wooden knob 7,d74 ,this forms the switch lever4 ,strips ,b and ,c1 folded in half1 and punched near the ends1 form the binding-post plates4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aha4--;,a ,home-made ,switch4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahb4--;,details of ,switch4 ,figures #aha and #ahb show how to mount the lever and binding-post plates upon the switch base4 ,pivot lever ,a with a small screw passed through a hole punched near its end1 and through the hole near the folded end of plate ,c4 ,fasten plate ,b with a rug-tack 7,f7 so the lever will come in contact with it4 ,screw-eyes ,e form the binding-posts4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahc4--;,detail of ,mast4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahd4--;,detail of ,pulley4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahe4--;,detail of ,boom4 ,instead of using a separate base1 the switch can be mounted as shown in ,fig4 #agf1 upon the base of ,the ,derrick4 ,cut the base about #h inches wide and #aj inches long 7,a1 ,fig4 #agf74 ,the mast 7,b7 is a piece of broom-handle or curtain-pole #af inches long1 and fits loosely in a hole bored in the base4 ,figure #ahc shows a detail of the mast4 ,the pulley upon its upper end 7,c7 is made of two spool-ends nailed together 7,fig4 #ahd71 and it turns upon the axle ,d1 which slips through holes in the plates ,e nailed to the end of the mast4 ,the lever ,f sticks in a hole in the mast1 close to the platform4 ,this is used to swing the boom from side to side4 ,screw-eye ,g is placed several inches above ,f to serve the purpose of a pulley to guide the hoisting cables4 ,figure #ahe shows a detail of the boom4 ,cut the side sticks ,h #ah inches long1 and fasten between them the separators ,i1 which should be just long enough to allow clearance for the spool pulley ,j4 ,the pulley is mounted on the axle ,k4 ,screw the lower ends of the boom to the mast1 at a point #b-a_/b inches above the base4 ,the ,windlass for raising the derrick boom1 and for hoisting the loads1 is shown in detail in ,fig4 #ahf4 ,bore a hole through upright ,l for the axle ,m to stick through1 and cut axle ,m enough smaller than the spool drums ,n so they will turn easily4 ,fasten a crank and handle to one end of each spool1 and drive a brad through each end of the axle to prevent the drums from sliding off4 ,cut four notches in the inner flange of each spool1 as shown1 and pivot the catches ,o to the post ,l1 in the positions indicated1 so they may be thrown into the notches to lock the windlass 7,fig4 #agf74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahf4--;,detail of ,derrick ,windlass4 ,the ,hoisting ,cables should be made of strong cord4 ,fasten one end of the cable for raising the boom to a nail 7,p1 ,fig4 #agf71 and run this cord up and over the mast pulley1 then down through screw-eye ,g and over to one drum2 tie it securely to the drum so it will not slip around4 ,the other cable should be fastened between the nut and washer of the magnet1 as shown in ,fig4 #ahj1 run up and over the boom pulley ,j1 then through screw-eye ,g1 and tied to the second drum4 ,figure #agf shows how the dry-cell may be strapped to the base board in front of the mast1 and how the wires that connect the electro-magnet1 switch1 and cell should be twisted around the hoisting cable1 part way1 and the remainder of their length allowed to hang4 ,be sure to cut the wires long enough to reach from a table-top down to the floor4 ,use flexible wire if you can get it4 ,by mounting the base upon spool wheels1 your derrick can be moved along a table-top4 ,spool-ends may be used for the wheels1 and can either be screwed to the edge of the base1 or be fastened upon axles as the wheels of the ,electric ,motor ,truck are fastened 7,figs4 #bjc and #bjh74 ,how the ,derrick ,works4 ,it is probably unnecessary to explain that a load is picked up by throwing over the switch lever to the contact point and closing the circuit1 and that it is dropped by throwing off the switch lever and opening the circuit--which causes the electro-magnet to lose its magnetism4 ,a ,toy ,shocking ,machine44,the little shocking machine shown in ,fig4 #ahg is a harmless toy with which you can have an endless amount of fun when entertaining friends4 ,the shock it produces is not severe1 but strong enough to make your friend's arm and wrist muscles twitch1 and perhaps cause him to dance4 ,large shocking coils contract the muscles to such an extent that it is impossible to let go of the metal grips until the current has been shut off1 but in our small shocking machine the handles can be dropped the instant the person holding them wishes to do so4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ahg4--;,detail of the ,toy ,shocking ,machine4 ,the shocking machine consists of an induction-coil1 an interrupter1 and a pair of handles1 all of which are easy for a boy to make1 and a wet or dry battery of one or two cells to furnish the current4 ,illustration3 ,,figs1 #ahh-aia4--;,details of ,induction-,coil4 ,the ,induction-,coil is the first part to make4 ,this is shown in detail in ,figs4 #ahh to #aia4 ,the coil has windings of two sizes of wire upon an iron core4 ,for the core buy a #e_/af-;inch carriage-bolt #b-a_/b inches long1 and for the wire coils get some ,no4 #bj- or #bd-;gauge electric-bell insulated copper wire1 and some ,no4 #cj-;gauge insulated magnet-wire4 ,to keep the wire from slipping off the ends of the bolt core1 cut two cardboard ends about #a-a_/b inches in diameter4 ,slip one of these on to the bolt next to the head1 and the other one next to the nut1 as shown in ,fig4 #ahh4 ,three layers of the coarse wire should be wound on first1 for ,the ,primary-,coil4 ,pierce a hole through one cardboard end1 stick the wire through it1 and allow about #e inches to project upon the outside2 then commence winding the wire upon the core1 placing each turn close to the preceding turn4 ,when the opposite end of the bolt has been reached1 wind back to the starting point1 then work back to the other end again4 ,there will be in the neighborhood of #age turns in the three layers4 ,cut off the wire so there will be a #e-;inch projection1 and stick the projecting end through a hole in the cardboard end4 ,this completes the primary-coil 7,fig4 #ahi74 ,before winding the small wire on top of the primary-coil1 to form ,the ,secondary-coil1 wrap the primary-coil with a layer of bicycle tape1 or glue several layers of paper around the coil4 ,then wind on the small wire as you did the coarser wire1 being very careful to get it on evenly and smoothly4 ,wind eleven layers on the coil1 and run the end of the eleventh layer out through the cardboard end 7,fig4 #aij74 ,there should be about #ajj turns of this wire to the layer1 or #aajj turns in all4 ,a crank arrangement can be rigged up to make the winding easier1 but with patience1 and by doing the work slowly1 the wire can be wound almost as well by hand4 ,it is difficult to keep track of each preceding turn1 while winding1 because of the fineness of the wire1 and on this account it is a good scheme to coat each layer with bluing after it has been wound on1 so that each turn of the following layer will show plainly against the stained layer beneath it4 ,figure #aij shows the complete induction-coil4 ,cut a base block #e inches wide and #g inches long1 bevel the top edges to give it a trim appearance1 and mount the induction-coil to one side of the center 7,fig4 #ahg71 strapping it in place by means of two tin straps similar to that shown in ,fig4 #aia1 cut from a tin can4 ,the projecting ends of the primary-coil connect with the battery1 while the two ends of the secondary-coil connect with the handles4 ,make three binding-post plates out of folded pieces of tin1 similar to plates ,b and ,c1 in ,fig4 #ahb4 ,tack two of these to the end of the base and connect the secondary-coil wires to them 7,fig4 #ahg71 and tack the third near one end of the induction-coil and connect one primary-coil wire to it 7,fig4 #ahg74 ,for the ,handles take two pieces of broom-handle #c-a_/b inches long1 and cover each with a piece of tin 7,fig4 #aib74 ,the pattern for the tin covering 7,fig4 #aic7 shows how tabs are prepared on the ends and holes punched through them for connecting with the induction-coil4 ,the connecting wires should be #e or #f feet long4 ,flexible wire is better than bell-wire for these1 because it is more easily handled in passing the handles around4 ,tack the tin covering to the pieces of broom-handle4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #aib and #aic4--;,details of ,shocking-coil ,handles4 ,the purpose of the induction-coil is to raise the voltage of the battery4 ,the flow of current must be an interrupted one1 in order to shock1 and therefore ,an ,interrupter must be inserted between the battery and one of the wires leading to the primary-coil of the induction-coil4 ,there are several ways to construct an interrupter1 but the scheme which ,i have invented for the model of this shocking-machine 7,fig4 #ahg7 serves the purpose nicely1 and is a neat appearing little piece of apparatus4 ,this interrupter is easily constructed as you will see by the working details shown in ,figs4 #aid to #aih4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aid4--;,interrupter for ,shocking-coil4 ,cut the base block ,a #a-a_/b inches wide and #b-a_/b inches long4 ,make the shaft ,b #b-c_/d inches long and of a diameter equal to the hole in a thread spool2 and prepare the crank ,c to fit on the end1 and drive a brad into it for a handle4 ,fasten the crank to the shaft with glue1 or by driving a small brad through the two4 ,the shaft supports ,d should be prepared as shown in ,fig4 #aif1 #a-a_/d inches wide across the bottom1 #e_/h inch wide at the top1 and #a-c_/d inches high4 ,bore a hole through each1 a little below the top1 and large enough so the shaft will turn easily1 and fasten these supports with brads to the sides of base ,a4 ,drive eight brads into a thread spool1 spacing them equidistant from one another1 and mount this spool upon the shaft 7,e1 ,fig4 #aid71 first slipping the shaft through one support1 then through the spool1 and then through the other support4 ,drive the spool brads a trifle into the shaft to hold the spool in position4 ,the projecting arm ,f 7,fig4 #aid7 is a strip of tin cut from a can1 and must be long enough so each nail-head will strike its end when spool ,e is revolved4 ,drive a nail into base ,a1 at ,g1 and1 after bending strip ,f as shown in ,fig4 #aih1 fasten it with brads upon the top of an upright made similar to ,h 7,fig4 #aig71 and nail this upright to the end of base ,a4 ,the upper end of strip ,f must be bent so it will bear down upon the head of nail ,g4 ,the wire from the primary-coil which is as yet not connected should be attached to nail ,g1 and one battery wire should be connected to a binding-post plate ,i fastened to the lower end of strip ,f4 ,figure #aih shows how the binding-post plate is made out of a doubled piece of tin1 with a hole punched through it for a small binding-screw4 ,this completes the interrupter4 ,mount it beside the induction-coil upon the base block1 and connect it with the battery and the induction-coil1 as shown in ,fig4 #ahg4 ,connect the battery cells in series4 ,two cells will be enough4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #aie-aih4--;,details of ,interrupter4 ,how the ,interrupter ,works4 ,when you turn the crank of the interrupter1 each nail in spool ,e raises the end of strip ,f1 in passing it1 thus breaking the electrical contact between it and the head of nail ,g4 ,if the strip has been bent properly1 it will spring back into contact with the head of nail ,g1 and each time the contact is made1 the person holding the handles will receive a shock4 ,the strength of the current can be regulated somewhat by the speed with which the interrupter crank is turned4 ,the shocks are stronger and more distinct when the crank is turned slowly4 ,home-made electrical toys of a light construction are easily operated by a toy motor1 when the motor and battery cell are not carried by the toy2 but when both are transported1 as in the case of a wagon1 the construction must be very carefully worked out1 or the motor will not be powerful enough to drive the wheels4 ,the ,toy ,electric ,motor ,truck shown in ,fig4 #aii is of light construction1 the axle bearings produce very little friction1 and the battery is light and of a powerful type4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #aii4--;,a ,toy ,electric ,motor ,truck4 ,get an oblong shaped cigar-box for the bed and sides of the truck1 several large thread spools for wheels and pulleys1 two small silk-thread spools1 four lead-pencils1 or sticks whittled perfectly round and #a_/d inch in diameter1 for axles1 belt-shaft1 and steering-wheel post1 and six screw-eyes #e_/af inch in diameter for the bearings4 ,first1 place the cigar-box in a wash-boiler or wash-tub of hot water1 and allow it to remain there until the paper labels have soaked off or loosened sufficiently so they can be scraped off with a knife4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bjj4--,top view of ,electric ,motor ,truck4 ,then1 after the box has thoroughly dried1 cut the two strips ,a 7,fig4 #bjh71 and fasten them to the bottom1 one at each side4 ,screw the screw-eye axle bearings into these strips4 ,place them at equal distances from the ends of the strips4 ,the ,wheels are made from the flange ends of the large spools4 ,figure #bjb shows the front pencil axle4 ,slip the center portion of one of the large spools on to this for a pulley1 then stick the pencil ends through the screw-eyes in strips ,a1 and glue the spool-end wheels on to them4 ,the rear axle is like the front one1 with the spool pulley omitted 7,fig4 #bjc74 ,the ,upper ,shaft shown in ,fig4 #bja supports a spool pulley like the one on the front axle1 and its screw-eye bearings should be screwed into the top edge of the sides of the box 7,fig4 #bjj71 directly over the front axle4 ,slip a silk-spool on to each end of this shaft to keep its ends from slipping out of the screw-eyes4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bja-bjc4--;,details of ,axle and ,belt ,shaft4 ,the ,belts4 ,as you will see by ,figs4 #bjj to #bjb1 the upper large pulley is belted to the motor pulley1 and another belt extends from the upper shaft down to the pulley on the front axle4 ,rubber-bands make the best belts4 ,cut a hole through the bottom of the cigar-box for the belt extending from the upper shaft to the front axle to pass through4 ,screw the toy motor to the cigar-box with its pulley directly in line with the upper shaft pulley4 ,wrap the spool pulleys with bicycle-tape1 to keep the rubber-band belts from slipping4 ,the ,battery4 ,a dry battery is too heavy for the motor truck to carry2 so we must make a special two-cell battery like that shown in ,fig4 #bjd4 ,two glass tumblers to hold the solution1 a pair of battery zincs1 a pair of carbons1 and a bi-chromate of potash solution1 are needed4 ,old battery zinc pencils with several inches of the eaten end cut off 7,fig4 #bjf7 will do for the zincs1 and the carbons from worn-out dry-battery cells cut to a corresponding length will do for the carbons4 ,fasten together the zincs and carbons with rubber-bands1 as shown in ,fig4 #bjg1 after wrapping a piece of bicycle-tape around the upper end of the carbon and inserting a small wad of it between the lower ends of the carbons and zincs1 to keep them from touching one another4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bjd4--,two ,home-made ,battery ,cells ,connected in ,series4 ,figure #bje shows a completed cell1 and ,fig4 #bjd how the two cells are connected in series1 that is1 with the carbon of one connected to the zinc of the other4 ,twisting the connecting wires into coils1 as shown1 is a good method of taking up the slack4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bje4--;,a ,single ,cell4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bjf and #bjg4--;,details of ,zinc and ,carbon4 ,the ,bi-chromate ,battery ,fluid is made up of bi-chromate of potash1 sulphuric acid1 and water1 in the following proportions3 #d ounces of bi-chromate of potash #d ounces of sulphuric acid #a quart of water ,in making up this solution1 first add the acid to the water1--never add the water to the acid--and then1 when the solution is nearly cool1 add the bi-chromate of potash4 ,pour the acid into the water slowly1 because the combination of the two creates a great deal of heat1 and if the heat forms too quickly your glass bottle is likely to split4 ,label the bottle in which you put this solution ,,poison4 ,as the bi-chromate solution attacks the zinc element of a cell even when the current is not being drawn upon1 the zinc should be removed when the cell is not in use4 ,amalgamating a ,zinc ,pencil4 ,to reduce the eating away of a zinc pencil used in a bi-chromate solution1 the zinc should be amalgamated by rubbing a thin coat of mercury over its surface4 ,dip the zinc into the solution1 first1 then with a rag dipped in the solution rub the mercury on to it4 ,cut an opening through the cigar-box large enough for the two tumblers to set in4 ,then cut a strip of tin about #a inch wide and #h inches long1 and bend it into a ,u-shaped hanger1 to support the tumbler bottoms4 ,slip the hanger ends under strips ,a1 bend them against the sides of the box1 and fasten with tacks 7,figs4 #bjh and #bji74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bjh4--,plan of ,motor ,truck ,bottom4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bji4--,section through ,bottom4 ,figure #bjj shows how the battery cells are connected4 ,a small switch can be fastened to the side of the truck to shut off and turn on the current1 but1 instead1 you can simply withdraw one pair of elements from its tumbler to shut off the current4 ,when through playing with the truck1 however1 it is important to remove both pairs of elements and wash them off1 because the bi-chromate solution attacks the zinc elements even when the current is not in use4 ,as the bi-chromate solution stains very badly1 it is advisable to operate the motor truck only where there is no danger of ruining anything in case some of the solution spills1 as in the basement or workshop4 ,if you wish to use a dry-cell instead of the pair of bi-chromate cells1 you can place the cell upon the floor and make the wires connecting it to the motor long enough so the truck can run back and forth across a room4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #baj--;,details of ,seat and ,canopy-top4 ,the ,seat and ,canopy-top details are shown in ,fig4 #baj4 ,make these in about the proportion to the cigar-box shown in ,fig4 #aii4 ,fasten the seat to the edge of the seat-back ,b with glue and brads1 and then fasten the side pieces ,a to the ends of the seat4 ,the dashboard ,e is nailed to the bottom piece ,d1 and ,d is nailed to the lower ends of side pieces ,a4 ,figure #baa shows the pattern for the canopy-top4 ,make it of light-weight cardboard1 or heavy writing-paper4 ,slash the ends as shown2 then turn down the corners1 and lap and glue them to form the turned-down canopy ends4 ,fasten the ends to the canopy uprights with tacks4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #baa4--,pattern of ,canopy-top4 ,the ,seat-arms are pieces of bent wire1 with their ends stuck into holes in the canopy uprights and front edge of the seat4 ,the ,steering-wheel is a section of a spool #a_/h inch thick1 and is glued upon the end of a pencil or a stick4 ,run the lower end of the pencil through a hole in the bottom of ,d 7,fig4 #baj74 ,for ,the ,levers1 fasten two small sticks to the end of the bottom piece ,d with small staples4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,a ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,shooting ,,gallery ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bab4--,the ,completed ,toy ,shooting ,gallery4 ,this interesting toy1 with its funny animal targets1 and a harmless pistol with which to shoot at them1 will provide an endless amount of fun for a winter's evening or stormy afternoon4 ,figure #bab shows the completed toy1 and ,fig4 #bac the box that forms ,the ,framework4 ,the targets can be arranged to suit the form of box that you find1 and the number may be increased or decreased to suit the space4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bac4--,the ,box ,framework4 ,the right position for the box is upon its side so its open top forms the front of the target box 7,fig4 #bac74 ,the horizontal piece ,a 7,fig4 #bac7 is fastened between the ends of the box1 to support targets4 ,it is held in place by nails driven through the box ends into its ends4 ,if your box is much larger than the one shown in the illustration1 you can provide two crosspiece supports for targets1 instead of one4 ,the ,circular ,target should be drawn upon a piece of cardboard with a compass1 or1 by marking around a cup or small saucer to make the outer circle1 marking around a can cover for the second circle1 and a coin for the center circle4 ,blacken the outside and center rings with ink1 or by rubbing with a soft pencil4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bad-bae4--;,details of ,targets4 ,figure #bad shows how the target should be hinged in place to the horizontal strip ,a4 ,tack or glue the lower edge of the piece of cardboard to a block of wood ,b4 ,then cut a hinge-strip out of a piece of dress lining1 and either tack or glue one-half of it to block ,b and the other half to the target support ,a4 ,the ,animal ,targets are made with pictures cut from magazines and newspapers4 ,the pictures should be colored with crayons or water-colors1 to make them as nearly like their right colors as possible4 ,after cutting out the pictures1 paste them upon cardboard1 mount the pieces of cardboard upon blocks of wood1 as shown at ,b and ,c 7,figs4 #bad and #bae71 and hinge the blocks to the target supports with cloth strips4 ,b shows the method of hinging the targets to strip ,a1 and to the lower side of the box1 and ,c shows the method of hinging the targets to the ends of the box4 ,the former targets fall backwards when struck2 the latter targets swing sideways when struck4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #baf4--,the ,card-shooting ,pistol4 ,figure #baf shows ,the ,card-shooting ,pistol1 and ,figs4 #bag1 #bah1 and #bai show the details for making it4 ,cut block ,a about #h inches long1 and block ,b about #c inches long4 ,nail ,a to ,b as shown4 ,then take two rubber-bands1 loop them together end to end1 as shown in ,fig4 #bah1 and fasten one end of the looped bands to the end of block ,a by means of a nail driven into the block and bent over as shown in ,fig4 #bag4 ,cut a piece of cardboard about ,i inch square1 notch the center of two opposite edges 7,fig4 #bai71 and fit the loop of the free end of the rubber-bands over the piece of cardboard and into the notches1 as shown in ,figs4 #bag and #bah4 ,this completes the pistol4 ,the toy pistol shoots small squares of cardboard1 placed in it as shown in ,figs4 #baf and #bah1 with one corner slipped beneath the rubber-band loop4 ,number the ,targets as shown in ,fig4 #bab1 marking the circular target #be1 four of the animal targets #aj1 and the remaining four #e4 ,each number represents the score of that particular target4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bag-bai4--;,detail of ,card-shooting ,pistol4 ,when ,shooting1 stand #c or #d feet away from the target box4 ,aim at the circular target1 because that one counts the most4 ,if you miss it1 there is the chance1 of course1 of hitting one of the other targets below or to one side of it and making a smaller score4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,a ,,home-,,made ,,doll-,,house ,there is nothing more interesting to build than a doll-house1 and the construction is within the ability of the average girl4 ,if brother is willing to lend a hand with the carpenter work so much the better4 ,sister can attend to the finishing and furnishing1 which are important parts of the work that she can do more handily than a boy can4 ,but there is no reason why either a girl or boy cannot undertake a doll-house like that shown in ,figs4 #bbj and #bba1 and carry the work to a successful completion1 by carefully following the instructions and diagrams in this chapter4 ,the ,building ,material4 ,the doll-house in the photographs was built of packing cases4 ,you can buy these at a drygoods store at #ae or #bj cents apiece4 ,the ,floor ,plans are shown in ,figs4 #bbb1 #bbc1 and #bbd4 ,your boxes may make it necessary to alter the dimensions given1 but that will be simple to do4 ,patterns for ,the ,partitions are shown in ,figs4 #bbe and #bbf4 ,in cutting the second-floor partitions 7,fig4 #bbf71 miter one edge of ,e and ,f to allow for the bedroom door opening1 shown upon the plan1 and miter the edges of ,g to fit between them above the door4 ,the mitering is shown in the drawings 7,fig4 #bbf74 ,besides cutting a stair opening in the second floor1 make an opening three by five inches in the second and third floors for ,the ,elevator-shaft4 ,care must be taken to have these openings exactly over one another4 ,make the opening in the second floor six by eight inches in the place indicated upon the plan4 ,this will allow for the elevator shaft and stairway4 ,no stairway has been built to the third story1 as the elevator serves the purpose1 and one would take up too much of the ball-room space4 ,the ,side ,walls should measure nineteen inches wide by twenty-four inches high1 and the other two walls thirty inches wide by twenty-four inches high4 ,that portion of ,the ,rear ,wall enclosing the kitchen and bathroom is hinged to open 7see ,fig4 #bbb71 and ,the ,front ,wall is made in two sections1 each hinged to a strip of wood an inch and one-half wide nailed to the two edges of the house1 as shown in ,fig4 #bbj4 ,the ,windows are four by five inches1 so four-by-five camera plates can be used for the glass4 ,the ,roof had best be made in two sections1 each measuring twenty-eight inches long by twenty-four inches wide4 ,fasten the boards together with battens on the under side and1 after mitering the upper edge of each1 nail them to the house so that the ridge is fifteen inches above the third floor4 ,then nail a board nineteen inches long by ten inches wide in the peak of the roof 7,d in ,fig4 #bbh71 and a narrow strip three inches from each side wall 7,k and ,l in ,fig4 #bbd74 ,these cut off the triangular shape of the ball-room and give it a better appearance4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bbj4 ,,the ,,home-,,made ,,doll-,,house4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bba4 ,,interior ,,view ,,of ,,doll-,,house4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bbb-bbf4--,plans of ,doll-house and ,patterns for ,partitions4 ,the ,chimney is a solid block of wood with narrow strips nailed to all sides near the top 7,fig4 #bbg74 ,make it eight or ten inches long1 and cut off the bottom to fit the slant of the roof4 ,paint the block red1 and mark off the mortar joints in white4 ,an ,elevator is something which is found in but few doll-houses4 ,it was built in this house1 thinking it might please the young mistress1 and it proved such a success that the scheme has been worked out carefully in ,figs4 #bbh1 #bbi1 #bcj1 #bca1 and #bcb1 that you may include it in the house you build4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bbg4--,the ,chimney4 ,the cutting of the elevator-shaft has already been described4 ,for material1 procure two small pulleys such as is shown in ,fig4 #bcj1 four feet of brass chain1 six feet of ,no4 #ab wire1 half a dozen double-pointed tacks or very small screw-eyes1 a short piece of lead pipe1 and a cigar-box4 ,make ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bbh4--;,front ,view of ,elevator-shaft and ,stairs4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bbi-bcb4--;,details of the ,elevator4 ,the ,car out of the cigar-box1 cutting it down to two and one-quarter inches wide1 three and three-quarters inches deep1 and seven inches high 7see ,fig4 #bca74 ,place two of the double-pointed tacks or screw-eyes in each side of the car for the guide-wires to run through and another in the center of the top from which to attach the brass chain4 ,the ,guide-wires are made of very heavy wire that will not bend easily4 ,cut two of a length to reach from the first floor to the ball-room ceiling1 and after running them through the tacks in the sides of the car1 stick their ends into small holes bored at ,e1 ,f1 ,g1 and ,h 7,fig4 #bbh74 ,the upper holes should be bored through the ball-room ceiling1 while the lower ones need be bored but part way through the first floor4 ,care must be taken to have these holes in the correct position1 so the elevator will run up and down upon the wires without striking the sides of the shaft4 ,the easiest way of fastening the wires in place is to run the upper ends through the holes1 until the lower ends can be set into their sockets1 and then drive two double-pointed tacks over the top of each wire1 as shown at ,e and ,f in ,fig4 #bbh4 ,now run the elevator up to the top of the shaft1 and mark upon the ceiling where the screw-eye in the top of the car strikes4 ,at this point bore a hole through the ceiling and two inches back of it bore another hole1 through which to run the weight-chain4 ,when this has been done1 cut a short block of wood to fit the peak of the roof and ,screw the ,pulleys into it two inches apart 7,fig4 #bbi74 ,fit the block in the peak of the roof1 centering the front pulley over the top of the car as nearly as possible1 and drive a couple of nails through the roof boards into it to hold it in place temporarily4 ,then ,attach the ,chain to the tack in the top of the car1 slip a piece of lead pipe about an inch long over the chain1 allowing it to set on the top of the car to make the latter heavier 7,fig4 #bca71 and run the chain up through the first hole in the ceiling1 over the pulleys1 and down through the second hole4 ,to the end of the chain attach a piece of lead pipe for ,the ,counter-balance 7,c1 ,fig4 #bcb74 ,this should be just heavy enough to make a perfect balance between it and the car1 which can be obtained by whittling off the end of the pipe until the weight of the two is the same4 ,make the chain of sufficient length so the weight will rest upon the first floor when the car is at the third floor4 ,you can now tell whether or not the pulleys are in the right positions4 ,when they have been adjusted properly1 nail the block firmly in place4 ,the ,gable-,ends4 ,the front gable-end consists of four pieces 7,a1 ,b1 ,c1 and ,d1 in ,fig4 #bcc71 the dimensions for the cutting of which are given in the illustration4 ,after preparing these1 nail ,a1 ,b1 and ,c in their proper positions in the gable of the roof1 and trim the edges of ,d1 if they need it1 to fit between4 ,to prevent the movable section from pushing in too far1 it will be necessary to nail a narrow strip of wood to the roof and third floor1 just inside of it4 ,the rear gable is made in one piece1 and is fastened in place permanently4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bcc4--,the ,front ,gable-,end4 ,the movable gable and all hinged portions should have ,spring-,catches with which to shut up and lock the house 7see the illustrations74 ,the ,stairway is shown in ,fig4 #bbh1 and the details for its construction will be found in ,figs4 #bcd1 #bce1 #bcf1 #bcg4 ,this stairway is made in two parts1 with a platform between4 ,cut a block of wood the shape and size shown in ,fig4 #bcd for the platform1 with notches at ,a and ,b for the tops of the lower stringers to fit in4 ,then ,prepare ,two ,stringers of thirteen steps similar to ,fig4 #bce1 and two stringers of five steps similar to ,fig4 #bcf1 laying off the steps by means of a cardboard pattern1 or pitch-board1 of the size shown in ,fig4 #bcg4 ,after cutting out these pieces1 fasten the tops of the lower stringers in the notches ,a and ,b in the platform1 and nail the platform in its proper position in the corner of the hall4 ,when this has been done1 nail the bottoms of the upper stringers 7,e in ,fig4 #bcf7 to the sides of the platform at ,c and ,d 7,fig4 #bcd71 and set the tops in notches cut in the edge of the second floor4 ,the ,treads and ,risers of the steps--the horizontal and vertical boards--should be cut out of cigar-box wood4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bcd-bcg4--;,details of ,stairs4 ,cut ,the ,newel-posts out of short square blocks1 and ,the ,hand-rails out of strips of cigar-box wood4 ,make a groove in the under side of the hand-rails to receive the ends of ,the ,balusters1 or spindles4 ,toothpicks are of just the right size for balusters4 ,the delicate portions of the stairways should be glued in place4 ,make slits in the stair treads to stick the bottoms of the balusters in4 ,the ,front ,steps are clearly shown in ,fig4 #bbj4 ,make the solid balustrades out of pieces of box board1 and the step treads and risers out of cigar-box wood4 ,prepare the rear steps in the same way4 ,cut the ,window ,openings in the places indicated upon the plans 7,figs4 #bbb to #bbd7 and the photographs4 ,first bore holes in the four corners of each window space2 then saw from hole to hole with a compass-saw4 ,old camera plates are excellent material for ,the ,window ,glass4 ,fasten the glass in the openings with small brads in the same way that glass is fastened in picture-frames1 and putty it in the same way that window glass is puttied1 to hold it firm4 ,the ,front and ,rear ,doors can be painted upon the front of the house4 ,openings are not necessary4 ,the ,outside ,trimmings4 ,strips of cigar-box wood should be cut up for the outside door and window casings1 and be tacked around the openings as shown in ,fig4 #bbj4 ,nail a molding or a plain strip of wood to the front edge of the third floor1 as shown in ,fig4 #bbj4 ,castors will make it easier to move the doll-house about4 ,cut four blocks of wood1 fasten a castor to each1 and nail one block inside each corner of the foundation frame4 ,the ,interior ,woodwork4 ,cigar-boxes make excellent hardwood floors4 ,fit the pieces close together and fasten with small brads4 ,make the door and window casings1 picture-moldings1 and baseboards out of strips of cigar-box wood4 ,after completing the carpenter work of the house1 ,set the ,nail-heads1--that is1 drive them below the surface of the wood1--putty these holes and all cracks and other defective places1 and sandpaper rough surfaces4 ,paint the ,house a cream color1 with white trimmings and a green roof4 ,stripe the foundation walls to indicate courses of stone work4 ,paint the front door a mahogany color1 with panels indicated upon it1 and make the rear door white4 ,the painting of the chimney has already been described4 ,the inside walls should be finished as suggested in ,chapter ,,xiv4 ,the woodwork may be oiled1 or painted with white enamel or any other color desired4 ,a ,colonial ,doll-house with a number of features not included in this house is described and illustrated in ,chapter ,v of ,the ,boy ,craftsman4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,furnishing ,,the ,,home-,,made ,,doll-,,house ,with the carpenter work of a doll-house completed1 the finishing of the inside1--wall papering and painting1--and selecting of furnishings for the various rooms1 remain to be done4 ,this requires as much care as the building of the house1 and while any boy can do the work1 the help of a sister will perhaps simplify matters and give to the rooms a daintier appearance4 ,the ,walls and ,ceiling of the kitchen and bathroom should be painted with white lead or white enamel4 ,for the other rooms select paper having a small design1 such as is to be found on most ceiling papers4 ,if you have ever watched the paper-hanger at work1 you have noticed he puts on the ceiling first1 allowing the paper to run down the walls a little way all around instead of trimming it off4 ,then he hangs the wall paper1 and if there is no border to cover the joints of the ceiling and wall papers he carries the wall paper up to the ceiling4 ,use flour paste to stick on the paper1 and a cloth or photograph-print roller to smooth out the wrinkles4 ,the dining-room should have a wainscot of dark paper below the chair-rail1 and a paper with little or no figure upon it above4 ,all ,hardwood ,floors1 the stairs1 door and window casings1 baseboards1 and picture moldings should be varnished thoroughly or given several coats of boiled linseed-oil4 ,all floors1 with the exception of the kitchen1 bathroom1 and hardwood floors1 should be fitted with ,carpets4 ,if you do not happen to have suitable scraps on hand1 they can be procured at almost any furnishing store where they make up carpets4 ,select pieces with as small patterns as possible4 ,the floors of the bathroom and kitchen should be covered with oilcloth4 ,rugs for the hardwood floors may be made out of scraps of carpet4 ,window-shades may be made for each window out of linen1 and tacked to the top casing so that the bottom of the curtain reaches just above the center of the opening4 ,each window should also have ,lace ,curtains made out of scraps of lace4 ,they should either be tacked above the windows or hung upon poles made out of ,no4 #ab wire1 cut in lengths to fit the windows4 ,screw small brass hooks into the top window-casings for the poles to hang upon4 ,handsome ,portires for the doorways can be made with beads and with the small hollow straws sold for use in kindergartens4 ,for the ,bead ,portires1 cut threads as long as the height of the door and string the beads upon them1 alternating the colors in such a way as to produce patterns4 ,then tie the strings together to a piece of wire the width of the doorway1 and fasten the wire in the opening4 ,the ,straw ,portires are made similarly4 ,from magazine illustrations you can select ,suitable ,pictures for each room1 but if you are handy with brush and pencil you may prefer to make the pictures yourself4 ,these may be mounted upon cardboard and have their edges bound with passe-partout paper to give the effect of frames1 or frames may be cut out of cardboard and pasted to them4 ,hang the pictures to the picture molding with thread4 ,a ,cosey-corner may be fitted up in the ball-room by fastening a strip of a cigar-box in one corner an inch and one-half above the floor for the seat1 and hanging draperies on each side of it4 ,pillows may be made for it out of scraps of silk stuffed with cotton4 ,a doll-house properly proportioned in every detail1 including the selection of its furniture1 is pleasing to look at1 and is to be desired much more than some of the specimens to be found in the stores4 ,these very often have parlor chairs larger than the mantel1 beds that either fill two-thirds of the bedroom space or are so small they are hidden from view by the chairs1 and other furniture accordingly1 all having been selected without any thought as to size or fitness4 ,care must be taken1 in buying the furniture1 to have the pieces suitable to the rooms4 ,it will no doubt require more time than to purchase the first sets you come across1 but when you have completed the selections1 the result will be a much better appearing doll-house4 ,by carefully searching the toy-shops you are almost certain of finding what you want for the various rooms1 as about everything imaginable in furniture has been manufactured4 ,porcelain bath-tubs1 wash-basins with real faucets and running water1 gilt furniture1 chandeliers1 and such articles are tempting to buy4 ,but it is rather expensive to fit up a house in this way1 for1 though each piece may not amount to very much1 they count up very quickly4 ,the suggestions for the making of cigar-box furniture in ,chapter ,,xvii1 and spool and cardboard furniture in ,chapter ,,xix1 will give you plenty of material for furniture and save you the expense of buying this part of the furnishings for your house4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,a ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,stable ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bch4--;,exterior of ,stable4 ,the stable illustrated in ,figs4 #bch and #bci is designed in keeping with the doll-house in ,chapter ,,xiii4 ,it is shown in the background of the photograph of this doll-house 7,fig4 #bbj74 ,if you prefer a garage instead of this stable1 you may omit the stalls1 and make one or two large windows in the rear wall in place of the small high windows shown4 ,the building's construction is very simple4 ,the dimensions are3 width1 twenty-four inches2 depth1 twelve inches2 and height1 twenty-two inches4 ,the barn contains five stalls on the ground floor and a hay-loft above4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bci4--;,interior of ,stable4 ,to build the stable according to the drawings1 a box ten by twelve by twenty-four inches should be procured for ,the ,first ,story4 ,if you have a box of different proportions it will be a simple matter to make such alterations in the details as it will require4 ,the ,roof is made in two sections1 each fifteen by eighteen inches1 and is fastened to the top of the box so that the peak is twenty-two inches above the bottom4 ,the ,gable-,end is made in four pieces1 as shown in ,fig4 #bdj1 ,a1 ,b1 and ,c1 to be nailed in place1 and ,d to be movable as in the case of the doll-house4 ,make a three-by-five-inch window in the center of ,d1 and fasten the glass in place with strips cut as described in ,chapter ,,xiii4 ,strips should be nailed to the roof just inside of the movable section to prevent the latter from setting in too far1 and a spring catch fastened to ,c and ,d as shown1 to hold the movable section in place4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bdj4--;,front ,gable-,end4 ,figure #bda gives the patterns and measurements for ,the ,stall ,partitions1 four of which should be cut out and fastened to the floor of the stable four inches apart1 or so they will divide the inside width into five equal stalls4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bda4--,stall ,partitions4 ,the ,feed-troughs are made out of two strips of cigar-boxes fitted between the stalls1 as shown in ,figs4 #bci and #bda1 and are fastened in place by means of brads and glue4 ,above the stalls cut ,small ,windows an inch and one-half square in the rear wall4 ,these are the ventilating windows for the stalls1 and may be left open4 ,figure #bdb shows the construction of ,a ,ladder to the hay-loft4 ,this is made out of two sticks twelve inches long1 with strips of cigar-boxes two inches long glued to them half an inch apart1 as shown in the drawing4 ,cut away a section of the hay-loft floor two inches square and stick the end of the ladder up through the opening1 fastening the uprights to the edge of the floor 7see ,fig4 #bdb74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bdb4--,ladder to ,hay-loft4 ,a stick about three inches long1 with a very small pulley attached near the end1 should be fastened in the peak of the roof for a ,feed-hoist 7see ,fig4 #bch74 ,the first story has ,a ,drop-,front1 as shown in ,figs4 #bch and #bci4 ,this is made from the box-cover4 ,fasten the boards together with battens placed upon the inside1 and hinge it to the bottom of the stable4 ,nail two cleats to the under side of the floor 7see ,fig4 #bch7 to lift it off the ground just enough to allow the front to drop without springing its hinges4 ,when the front is down it forms an incline upon which to run the horses into the stable4 ,for this reason it is not advisable to cut an opening in it1 but merely ,represent a ,stable ,door on the outside 7see ,fig4 #bch74 ,this is done with paint and a fine brush4 ,first paint a green panel in the center of the front1 and then mark off a couple of panels within this space with black paint1 and stripe them diagonally to represent beaded-boards4 ,with strips of wood half an inch wide make ,a ,simple ,trim around the door1 the sides of the stable1 and around the gable1 as shown in the illustration4 ,when the carpenter work has been finished1 ,paint the ,inside of the stable white1 and the outside the same colors as used for the doll-house 7see description in ,chapter ,,xiii74 ,if you ,prefer a ,garage1 use your ingenuity to fit up the interior of the building as you think it ought to be4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,a ,,home-,,made ,,doll ,,apartment ,,building ,the doll apartment building in this chapter is a new idea in doll-houses4 ,by the illustrations you will see that the apartment building is three stories high1 and consists of three units--each one story high--and a roof4 ,during playtime the units are arranged side by side upon the floor so as to form a six-room apartment 7,fig4 #bdd72 and afterward they are piled up one upon another as shown in ,fig4 #bdc1 and the roof placed on top1 in a compact form that takes up but little floor space4 ,building ,material4 ,the apartment building is built out of grocery boxes4 ,the boxes used for the units must be of equal size1 and the thing to do is to select those in which a standard brand of goods come packed4 ,if one grocery store doesn't have what you want1 go to another4 ,if the sides and ends of the boxes are in one piece1 it will greatly simplify the matter of cutting the door and window openings4 ,the ,room ,dimensions4 ,the boxes used in the model illustrated were #bh inches long1 #ac inches wide1 and #h inches deep4 ,these provided space for a vestibule #c inches by #h inches1 a reception-hall #h-a_/b inches by #h inches1 a living-room #ab inches by #ah-a_/b inches1 a dining-room #ab inches by #ae inches1 a kitchen #ab inches by #h inches1 a pantry #g inches by #c inches1 two bedrooms--one #ab inches square and the other #ab inches by #h inches1 and a bathroom #g-a_/b inches by #f inches 7,fig4 #bde74 ,you may have to vary the sizes of your rooms a trifle1 if you get boxes of different proportions1 but it is probable that you can keep to the same plan arrangement4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bde4--,plan of the ,six-,room ,doll ,apartment4 ,the ,first ,story ,unit is shown in ,fig4 #bdf1 and diagrams of its two partitions ,a and ,b1 are placed to the right of it2 ,fig4 #bdg shows ,the ,second ,story ,unit1 with diagrams of its three partitions ,c1 ,d1 and ,e1 placed to the left and right of it1 and ,fig4 #bdh shows ,the ,third ,story ,unit1 with diagrams of its two partitions ,f and ,g placed to the left of it4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bdd4--;,,how ,,the ,,three ,,stories ,,are ,,arranged ,,side ,,by ,,side ,,to ,,form ,a ,,six-,,room ,,apartment4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bdc4--,,the ,,most ,,stylish ,,apartments ,,in ,,doll ,,town4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bdf4--,the ,first ,story ,unit and ,diagram of ,partitions4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bdg4--,the ,second ,story ,unit and ,diagram of ,partitions4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bdh4--,the ,third ,story ,unit and ,diagram of ,partitions4 ,mark the ,door and ,window ,openings carefully upon the sides of the box1 making them as nearly as possible in the same proportion to the wall space as is shown in the illustrations4 ,then1 in cutting the openings1 bore a number of small holes a trifle inside of the lines1 to make an opening large enough to insert a small keyhole-saw or bracket-saw1 and the cutting will be easy to do4 ,the ,bay ,windows on the second and third stories are built of cigar-box wood4 ,instead of cutting away the entire width of the box at the points of attaching these bays1 it is a better plan to leave a narrow strip over the opening1 as shown in ,fig4 #bdi4 ,this will hold the walls together1 and will form a beam across the ceiling4 ,the side edges of the pieces that form the front of the bay must be slanted off so as to fit at the proper angles1 and the window openings must be cut carefully1 because the margin of wood around them is narrow and will split easily4 ,fasten together the members of the bays1 also the inside partitions1 with glue and brads4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bdi4--;,in ,cutting the ,opening for the ,bay ,windows1 leave a ,narrow ,strip over the ,opening1 as above1 for a ,beam4 ,the ,joints between the ,units1 when piled one upon another1 are concealed by a band of wood #a_/b inch wide nailed around the front and two ends of the bottom of the second and third story units 7,figs4 #bdg and #bdh74 ,these bands should project about #a_/d inch below the bottoms of these boxes1 so as to set down over the boxes beneath4 ,they must not extend around the back of the boxes1 and cannot be fastened to the first story box1 because they would interfere with placing the boxes close together as in ,fig4 #bdd4 ,the first story unit must be raised to the same floor level as the other stories1 however1 and a thin board of the same thickness as the projection of the strips on the second and third story units must be nailed to its bottom to bring it to the same level 7,fig4 #bdf74 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bej and #bea4--;,how the ,removable ,roof is ,constructed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #beb4--;,how the ,chimney and ,chimney ,cap are ,made4 ,the ,roof ,construction is shown in ,fig4 #bej4 ,boards ,h 7,figs4 #bej and #bea7 should be cut of the right size to form a projection of #a-a_/b inches over the front and ends of the building1 and the piece ,i should be cut to the proper shape and size to form an equal projection over the bay windows4 ,strips ,j and ,k are #a inch wide1 and should be fastened to boards ,h so they will come exactly over the front and end walls when the roof is set in place4 ,block ,l should be cut of such a shape and size that when nailed to strip ,k its front edges will come directly over the walls of the bay windows4 ,a narrow strip nailed to the under side of the roof boards1 close against the walls1 will conceal the joint between the roof and top story and make a good finish molding4 ,the ,chimney is made of two blocks 7,m and ,n1 ,fig4 #beb74 ,notch the lower block to fit over strip ,j1 and cut the cap block large enough to project #a_/h inch all around4 ,the ,windows4 ,old photograph plates can be cut down to the proper sizes for the window openings1 but it will not cost much to have the paint-shop man cut them out of new material1 if you haven't any4 ,the glass should be just a trifle smaller than the openings4 ,fasten it in place with narrow strips of cigar-box wood4 ,window sashes can be indicated by striping the glass with black paint4 ,make the ,front ,door out of a piece of cigar-box wood1 and set a piece of glass in an opening cut about the size shown in ,fig4 #bdc4 ,this door may be hinged to open1 but it is better to fasten it in the opening1 because small pieces are easily broken off their hinges4 ,fasten a small block below the front door for a step 7,fig4 #bdc74 ,the ,inside ,doorways1 in the ends of the first story unit and in the back of the second and third story units1 may be fitted with pieces of board that can be set in when the units are piled up in the form of the building1 but it is not necessary to make this provision4 ,the ,interior ,trim4 ,the door and window casings1 picture moldings1 baseboards1 and other trimming should be made out of strips of cigar-box wood4 ,tack the strips in place with short brads4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bec4--,the ,living-,room ,mantel4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bed4--;,details of ,mantel4 ,a ,fireplace must be provided for the living-room1 and one easily constructed out of four pieces of wood is shown in ,figs4 #bec and #bed4 ,cut blocks ,o and ,p of the same thickness1 and make the shelf piece ,q of the proper size to project an equal distance over the front and ends4 ,fasten the pieces together1 then glue red paper to the wood1 and when this has dried mark off brick courses with a pencil4 ,the joints may be accentuated by striping with white or black paint4 ,lighting ,fixtures1 simple to make1 are shown in two splendid forms in ,figures #bee and #beg4 ,small brass screw-hooks such as are shown in ,figure #bef can be purchased at any hardware store1 and a couple of dozen of these1 a lead pencil1 and a number of large beads1 will furnish you with enough material for making fixtures for every room in the apartment4 ,you will see by ,fig4 #bef that the lighting fixture shown in ,fig4 #bee consists of a screw-hook with its hooked end stuck through one of the little brass plates removed from another screw-hook1 and then pushed into the hole in the end of a short piece of lead-pencil4 ,cut the pencil end about #a_/b inch long1 push out the piece of lead1 and if necessary enlarge the hole to accommodate the hook end4 ,if the piece of pencil comes apart where glued1 re-glue it4 ,glue the little brass cap to the top4 ,paint the pencil end white1 to represent glass1 and indicate metal division strips1 or leading1 with black paint or ink4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bee-beh4--,two ,lighting ,fixtures and how to ,make ,them4 ,the lighting fixture shown in ,fig4 #beg is made in the same way as the other one1 except that a bead instead of the pencil end is used for a globe 7,fig4 #beh74 ,the fixture in ,fig4 #bee is better suited to the living-room and dining-room1 and for fastening each side of the front door2 the fixture in ,fig4 #beg is better for the other rooms4 ,decorating4 ,suggestions for decorating a doll-house are given in ,chapter ,,xiv1 but here are some additional ideas to suit the conditions of the apartment4 ,it is the modern practice to tint walls of apartments1 and the best plan is to cover the walls of each room with plain paper1 using a paper of a different color for each room4 ,the dining-room should have a plate-rail on which to stand plates 7pictures of plates cut from advertisements and pasted upon cardboard71 and the walls below the plate-rail should be paneled with strips of cigar-box wood for division strips 7,fig4 #bdd74 ,the ,outside ,walls of the apartment building are supposedly brick2 therefore paint them a good red1 brown1 or yellow brick color1 and paint the roof cornice1 and the horizontal bands between stories1 white1 as a contrast4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,home-,,made ,,doll ,,furniture ,the metal furniture which you can buy is very pretty when it is new1 but this new appearance does not last long after it has come into a youngster's possession1 for the pieces are very slender and delicate1 and thus easily broken4 ,wooden furniture is the most durable kind1 and plain and simple pieces will generally outlast the fancy ones4 ,the designs illustrated in this chapter make very substantial pieces1 as there are no spindle legs or fancy arms to break off4 ,they follow the lines of the mission furniture1 that simple style used in the early ,american mission schools1 and which is to-day being extensively made in handsome pieces for the furnishings of modern homes4 ,you will find the ,miniature ,mission ,furniture1 illustrated and described in this chapter1 simple to make and something which is easy to sell1 for there is nothing like it at present upon the market4 ,cigar-boxes furnish the nicest material for making this furniture1 and the various parts can be cut to the right shape and size with ,a ,scroll-saw4 ,procure small brads and glue with which to fasten the pieces together4 ,to ,prepare the ,cigar-boxes for use1 place them in a tub of boiling water and let them remain there until the paper labels readily pull off4 ,do not use a knife in removing the paper1 as it is likely to roughen the wood4 ,the paper will come off by allowing it to soak long enough4 ,when the boxes are clean1 set them in the sun to dry1 after binding the covers to the backs to prevent them from warping4 ,pull the boxes apart when they are thoroughly dry1 and throw out such pieces as have printing upon them1 for these would spoil the appearance of the furniture if used4 ,in order to simplify the matter of cutting the parts that make the furniture1 the curved pieces have been drawn out carefully on page #agg1 so that they can be laid off upon the strips of cigar-boxes without any trouble1 by the process of ,enlarging by ,squares4 ,these drawings are shown one-quarter of their full size 7half their width and half their height74 ,to enlarge them procure a piece of cardboard nine by thirteen inches1 or a little larger than twice the size of the drawing each way1 and divide it into squares just twice the size of those on page #agg4 ,that will make sixteen squares in the width of the cardboard and twenty-four in the length1 each half an inch square4 ,in order to get the squares spaced equally1 it is best to lay off the points first with a ruler along the top1 bottom1 and two sides of the sheet of cardboard1 and then connect the points with the ruler and a sharp lead-pencil4 ,then number the squares as in the illustration1 using the figures along the sides and letters across the top and bottom of the sheet4 ,with the sheet of cardboard thus prepared it is a simple matter to ,reproduce the ,drawings of ,figs4 #bei to #bff by locating the points of the curves and corners of the pieces1 as shown in the illustrations1 in corresponding positions in the squares on your cardboard sheet4 ,the curves may be drawn in by eye1 after locating them with reference to their surrounding squares1 but the surest way of enlarging them accurately is by laying off the points where the curve strikes each horizontal and vertical line in the illustration1 upon the enlarged drawing4 ,these points can then be connected with a curved line4 ,make all of the lines heavy so they can be distinguished from your guide lines1 and after carefully going over the drawing1 comparing it with that on page #agg to see that no mistake has been made in locating the points in enlarging1 cut the various pieces apart4 ,these will give you ,the ,patterns with which to mark out the pieces on the wood4 ,we will first note the construction of ,the ,chairs shown in ,figs4 #bfg and #bfh4 ,these are four and one-half inches high1 two inches wide1 and an inch and one-half deep4 ,cut the back for the chair in ,fig4 #bfg four and three-eighths inches high and an inch and three-quarters wide1 the sides by the pattern in ,fig4 #bei and the seat an inch and one-quarter by an inch and three-quarters4 ,with the pieces cut out1 fasten them together with brads and glue1 placing the seat between the arms and back so that it is an inch and one-half above the base4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #bei-bff4--,patterns for ,furniture4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bfg4 ,chairs ,,fig4 #bfh4 ,cut the back for the other chair 7,fig4 #bfh7 four and one-half inches high by two inches wide1 the seat an inch and a quarter by an inch and three-quarters1 and the sides an inch and three-eighths wide by two and one-half high4 ,to get the curve in the bottom edge of the side pieces1 use the pattern in ,fig4 #bei4 ,the ,settee 7,fig4 #bfi7 should have its sides cut by the pattern of ,fig4 #bfj4 ,make the back piece three and three-quarters inches wide and three and one-quarter inches high1 and the seat three and three-quarters inches by an inch and one-half4 ,fasten the seat against the back an inch and one-half above the base4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bfi4--;,a ,settee4 ,tables for the living-room1 dining-room1 bedroom1 ball-room1 and nursery of a doll-house may be patterned after the designs of ,figs4 #bgj and #bga4 ,these should be two and one-half inches high to be of proper proportion for the chairs4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bgj4--;,a ,table4 ,the pieces necessary to make ,fig4 #bgj are a top two inches square1 two sides an inch and one-half wide by two and one-half inches high1 and a shelf an inch and one-quarter square4 ,fasten the pieces together as in the illustration1 placing the shelf between the side pieces an inch from the bottom4 ,the other design 7,fig4 #bga7 will do nicely for ,a ,dining-room ,table1 or table for the center of the living-room4 ,the top of this should be five inches long and three inches wide4 ,cut the side pieces by the pattern in ,fig4 #bfa and1 after fastening them to the under side of the table-top four inches apart1 brace them with a strip three and three-quarters inches long by half an inch wide1 as shown in ,fig4 #bga4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bga4--;,another ,design4 ,a ,side-board similar to ,fig4 #bgb should be made for the dining-room4 ,the pattern for the side pieces is shown in ,fig4 #bfb4 ,after sawing these out1 cut a piece seven inches long by three inches wide for the back and fasten the side pieces to the edges of it4 ,the location of the shelves can be obtained best by referring to ,fig4 #bgb and the pattern in ,fig4 #bfb4 ,cut the bottom shelf 7,a in ,fig4 #bgb7 three inches long by an inch and one-quarter wide and fasten it to the side pieces half an inch above the base 7line #bd on pattern1 ,fig4 #bfb74 ,make shelf ,b three by one inches and place it at line #bb4 ,c should be three and three-quarters inches long by an inch and one-half wide1 with a small notch cut near each end with your knife1 to make it fit over the side pieces 7see illustration74 ,cut shelf ,d three inches long by half an inch wide1 fastening it in place at line ,no4 #ag1 ,e three inches long by seven-sixteenths of an inch wide1 fastening it at line ,no4 #ae1 and ,f three inches long by three-eighths of an inch wide1 fastening it at line ,no4 #ac4 ,the top shelf 7,g7 is three and three-quarters inches long and half an inch wide and is fastened to the tops of the side pieces as shown in the drawing4 ,the lower portion of the side-board is inclosed with two doors two inches high by an inch and one-half wide4 ,small pieces of cloth may be used for hinges1 but it is better to use pins1 running them through the shelf above and below 7,a and ,c1 ,fig4 #bgb7 into the doors4 ,stick the pins near the edge of the doors and see that they are straight1 so the doors will open easily4 ,a small mirror attached to the back between shelves ,c and ,d will complete this piece of furniture4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bgb4--;,a ,side-board4 ,a ,mirror in a frame should be made for the living-room of the doll-house4 ,a neat and suitable design for one of these will be seen in ,fig4 #bgc4 ,for its construction cut two sides by means of the pattern in ,fig4 #bfc1 a piece five inches long by three inches wide for the back1 and a strip three inches long by three-eighths of an inch wide for a shelf4 ,fasten the sides to the edges of the back piece1 and the shelf between the sides about three-quarters of an inch above the base4 ,now procure a mirror such as you can buy in a toy-shop for five or ten cents 7or a piece of a broken mirror cut down to the right size will do very nicely71 and attach it to the center of the back4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bgc4--;,a ,mirror4 ,the ,grandfather's ,clock 7,fig4 #bgd7 makes an effective piece of furniture for the hall or living-room1 and is easily made4 ,figure #bfd shows the pattern for the front of this clock4 ,the back is made the same1 with the omission of the square opening cut in the front frame for the clock-face4 ,cut a block of wood two by two by three-quarters inches to fit between the frames at the top4 ,after nailing the pieces together1 procure a face from a toy watch1 and fasten it in the opening made for it in the front frame4 ,a button suspended by means of a piece of thread from a tack placed in the bottom of the block forms the pendulum4 ,it will be unnecessary to give any suggestions for ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bgd4 ,a ,grandfather's ,clock4 ,kitchen ,furniture1 such as chairs and tables1 for these can also be made out of cigar-box wood similar to the designs illustrated in this chapter1 with perhaps a few modifications which will make them simpler4 ,now for the making of some pieces of bedroom furniture4 ,you will find in ,figs4 #bge and #bgf two designs that are easily carried out1 one or both of which may be used for ,the ,beds of a doll-house4 ,to make ,fig4 #bge1 cut the head and foot by means of the pattern in ,fig4 #bfe1 and cut the two sides by means of the pattern in ,fig4 #bff4 ,after preparing these pieces and fastening them together as shown in the illustration 7,fig4 #bge71 cut a few strips a quarter of an inch wide for slats and fasten them between the sides of the bed4 ,it is advisable to fasten these in place to prevent them from being lost4 ,the side pieces for the other bed 7,fig4 #bgf7 are cut out with the same pattern 7,fig4 #bff74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bge4--;,a ,bed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bgf4--;,another ,design4 ,make the head and foot pieces three by four and one-half inches1 cutting a piece two by an inch and one-quarter out of the top of each as shown in the drawing 7,fig4 #bgf71 and using the pattern of the other bed for cutting the curve in the bottom edge4 ,nail the pieces together in their proper places1 after which cut some slats and fasten them in the bottom4 ,the ,dresser 7,fig4 #bgg7 is made somewhat similar to the side-board4 ,cut the sides by the same pattern 7,fig4 #bfb7 and fasten them to the edges of the back piece1 which should be six and one-half inches high by three inches wide4 ,cut shelf ,a three by one and one-quarter inches1 ,b and ,c three by one and one-eighth1 ,d three by one and three-sixteenths1 and ,e and ,f one-half by one and one-quarter inches4 ,fasten shelf ,a between the sides at line ,no4 #bd 7see ,fig4 #bfb71 ,b at line ,no4 #bc1 ,c at line ,no4 #bb1 ,d at line ,no4 #ba1 and notch the ends of ,e and ,f to fit over the side pieces at line ,no4 #bj4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bgg4--;,a ,dresser4 ,drawers to fit the lower shelves of the dresser may be made out of small strips of cigar-boxes or pieces of cardboard1 glued together4 ,a small mirror fastened in the position shown in the drawing will complete the work upon this piece of furniture4 ,a ,wash-stand can be made for the bathroom and each of the bedrooms similar to ,fig4 #bgh4 ,the sides for this should be five inches high by an inch and one-quarter wide1 and the shelves one by three inches4 ,fasten the lower shelf three-quarters of an inch above the base1 and the top shelf at a height of two and one-half inches4 ,when the stand has been put together1 fit a round stick1 about an eighth of an inch in diameter1 in holes made in the sides with a gimlet 7see illustration74 ,this forms the towel-rack4 ,hang a small drapery over the lower portion of the stand4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bgh4--;,a ,wash-stand4 ,finishing4 ,when the pieces of furniture have been completed1 they should be rubbed down with emery-paper to remove the rough edges1 and also any rough places that may have been caused by soaking the boxes in water4 ,then give the wood several coats of linseed-oil4 ,this makes a beautiful finish for this kind of wood1 which may be improved by adding a coat of wax4 ,the little hearts may be painted upon the pieces as shown in the illustration1 with a small brush and red paint1 or may be cut out of red paper and glued to the wood4 ,if desired1 the bedroom furniture may be painted with white enamel4 ,,other ,,cigar-,,box ,,furniture ,in ,figs4 #bgi and #bhb will be found some pieces of furniture that are simpler to make than those just described1 and although they may not be so pretty1 they present a very good appearance when neatly made4 ,the author constructed many pieces of this furniture when a boy1 and found them suitable as presents1 and something that was always easy to sell4 ,the cost of making a set amounts to but a few cents1 cigar-boxes being the principal material4 ,they are also very quickly made1 as the boxes require but little cutting4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bgi4--;,a ,doll's ,folding-bed4 ,for the construction of ,a ,folding-bed1 such as is shown in ,figs4 #bgi and #bhj1 select two cigar-boxes1 one of which will fit inside the other4 ,the smaller box should be a little shorter than the inside opening of the larger box4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bhj4--;,folding-bed 7open74 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bha4--;,foot4 ,after removing the paper from each1 place the smaller box inside the larger one1 as shown in ,fig4 #bgi1 so that the bottom of the inner box is flush with the edge of the outer box4 ,then drive a brad through both boxes on each side1 about three-quarters of an inch from the end as shown at ,a 7,fig4 #bgi74 ,these brads should run through the outer box into the bottom of the inner box1 and should be driven in carefully so as not to split the wood4 ,the inner box should now fold down as shown in ,fig4 #bhj1 moving upon the brad pivots4 ,purchase a five or ten cent mirror and fasten it to the front of the bed1 after which cut two wooden feet similar to ,fig4 #bha and glue the pegs on the ends of these in gimlet holes made above the mirror4 ,finish the wood the same as described for the other cigar-box furniture4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bhb4--;,dresser ,completed4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bhc4--;,a ,doll's ,dresser4 ,the ,dresser shown in ,fig4 #bhb is made out of a box the same size as the larger one used for the folding-bed4 ,saw the sides of the box in half1 crosswise1 and remove the upper half and the end piece4 ,then nail the end across the tops of the remaining halves of the sides4 ,when this has been done1 divide up the lower portion of the box into compartments as shown in the drawing 7,fig4 #bhc74 ,this should have a small drapery hung over it4 ,the upper portion of the dresser should have a mirror attached to it1 and some lace draped over the top and sides will add greatly to its appearance4 ,all you will have to do in making ,a ,wardrobe will be to fasten some small hooks inside of a cigar-box1 attach the cover with a strip of linen--the same way it was attached before you soaked it off--and hang a mirror on the front4 ,these pieces of furniture were designed for separate sets1 and would not do for doll-houses the size of those in the preceding chapters1 unless the boxes were cut down to smaller proportions4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,home-,,made ,,cigar-,,box ,,toys ,cigar-boxes are splendid material for a variety of home-made toys4 ,in this chapter are shown some easily constructed wagons1 a ,jack-in-the-box1 a cradle1 and several tables and chairs of a different pattern from the doll furniture for which working drawings were given in the preceding chapter4 ,get an assortment of shapes and sizes of boxes at a cigar store1 and prepare them for use as directed on page #age4 ,use #c_/h inch and #a_/b inch brads1 and glue1 for fastening the pieces together4 ,a scroll-saw1 bracket-saw1 coping-saw1 or a very sharp jack-knife should be used where ,cutting is necessary4 ,do not attempt to split the wood1 as the grain is seldom straight1 but lay it down upon a board and score it with a knife in the way in which you would score a piece of cardboard2 then break it along the scored line1 or continue cutting until the piece is cut in two4 ,if you use a saw1 cut a little away from the outlines of the work and then trim up with a knife and sandpaper4 ,the wagons1 ,jack-in-the-box1 and doll furniture shown in this chapter were designed with the idea of saving as much cutting as possible1 and you will see by the illustrations that in many cases the boxes are not altered4 ,the ,express-wagon shown in ,fig4 #bhd is made out of a long flat box4 ,cut down the sides at the front and construct a seat on top of the sides as shown in ,fig4 #bhf4 ,cut the front wheels about #b-a_/d inches in diameter and the rear wheels about #b-c_/d inches in diameter4 ,if you haven't a compass with which to describe the circles1 you can mark out the wheels with cups or glass tumblers4 ,cut the wooden axles as shown in ,fig4 #bhf1 making the front axle--for the smaller wheels--deeper than the rear one1 then fasten them to the wagon and nail the wheels to their ends4 ,drive a tack into the front of the wagon-box and tie a cord to it1 or1 if you have a small toy horse to hitch to the wagon1 fasten a pair of shafts to the under side of the box as is shown upon the two-wheel cart4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bhf4--;,cross-section of the ,express-wagon4 ,the ,cart in ,fig4 #bhe is made out of a square flat box with its wheels fastened to the center of the under side4 ,make the wheels about #b-c_/d inches in diameter4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bhd4 ,,an ,,express-,,wagon4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bhe4 ,a ,,cart4 ,the ,auto ,delivery-wagon 7,figs4 #bhg and #bhh4 ,see ,frontispiece7 requires two boxes #h-a_/b inches long1 #e inches wide1 and #b-a_/b inches deep4 ,you will see by the illustrations that one box is inverted upon the other4 ,before fastening them together1 remove the two ends of the upper box and the rear end of the lower box 7leaving the front end for the dashboard71 and cut #b inches off the sides at the front and an additional piece #a inch by #a-c_/d inches from the sides of the upper box for windows4 ,fasten the boxes together by nailing strips to the ends of side pieces4 ,nail a narrow strip across the top of the rear end of the wagon and hinge a drop end-gate to the wagon-bed with cloth strips4 ,support the end-gate with a cloth strap4 ,tack a curtain of black cloth to the top cross strip and sew two cloth straps to the curtain1 so that it may be fastened up in a roll1 as shown in the photograph4 ,make the wheels and axles like those of the express wagon1 but cut the front and rear wheels1 also the two axles1 of equal size4 ,cut out a small steering-wheel and fasten it on a short wooden rod inside of the dashboard4 ,make a seat and seat back1 nail the back to the seat1 and then fasten the seat between the sides of the wagon just below the windows4 ,a ,jack-in-the-box 7,fig4 #bhi7 is a simpler toy to make than you might imagine4 ,the box should measure about #e-c_/d inches by #e-c_/d inches by #e inches4 ,hinge the cover to the top with two pieces of heavy cloth2 glue one piece to the inside of the cover and box1 and the other to the outside4 ,drive a small tack into the front edge of the cover1 and below it fasten a small hook on to the box2 the hook may be bent from a short piece of wire4 ,a spiral spring from an old bed-spring will do for ,jack's body1 but if you cannot get one of these it is a simple matter to make a spring4 ,take a piece of ,no4 #ab gauge wire about #aj feet in length and wind it around a rolling-pin or anything that is cylindrical and about #b-a_/b inches in diameter4 ,fasten this spring with doubled-pointed tacks upon a piece of wood cut to fit the inside of the box 7,fig4 #bij71 then procure a small doll's head1 baste a circular piece of cardboard to the top of the spring and to this sew the head4 ,make a cloth fool's cap to glue on ,jack's head1 covering his hair entirely1 and also a loose jacket to fit over his spiral body2 for these use any bright-colored cotton cloth that will fall into folds easily4 ,tack the base of the spring to the bottom of the box4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #big4 ,leg of ,dining-table4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bif4 ,pedestal of ,center-table4 ,make the seat for ,the ,round-seated ,chair shown in ,fig4 #bia #b inches in diameter1 the back #e inches high1 #b inches wide at the top1 and #a-a_/d inches wide at the seat2 cut the front leg #b-a_/h inches high by #a-a_/d inches wide4 ,the ,round ,center-table 7,fig4 #bib7 should have a base built up of four strips as shown in ,fig4 #bif4 ,cut the circular top #e inches in diameter4 ,a saucer may be used with which to mark this out4 ,select a long flat box for ,the ,dining-table shown in ,fig4 #bic1 and after making four built-up legs as shown in ,fig4 #big fasten them into the four corners of the box table top with brads and glue4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bie4 ,a ,,doll',s ,,cradle4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bia4 ,a ,,round-,,seated ,,chair4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bhi4 ,a ,,jack-,,in-,,the-,,box4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bib4 ,a ,,round ,,center-,,table4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bic4--;,a ,,dining-,,table4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bij4--,,the ,,skeleton ,,of ,,the ,,jack-,,in-,,the-,,box4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bid4--;,a ,,square-,,seated ,,chair4 ,in making the little ,square-seated ,chair 7,fig4 #bid71 cut the seat about #b inches wide by #b-a_/d inches deep1 the front legs #b-a_/h inches high by #c_/h inch wide1 and the back legs #d-a_/b inches high by #c_/h inch wide4 ,brace the legs and back with crosspieces1 and you will have a very firm and artistic dining-room chair4 ,select a box about #i inches by #e inches by #b-a_/d inches in size for making ,the ,doll's ,cradle shown in ,fig4 #bie4 ,cut the two rockers by the pattern in ,fig4 #bih and fasten them to the bottom of the box #a inch from the ends4 ,use the rim of a breakfast plate in drawing the arc of the rockers2 then draw the rounded ends1 being careful to get them alike4 ,saw out the rockers very particularly so as not to split off the ends4 ,fasten the pieces to the cradle box with brads driven through the box bottom into their top edge4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bih4--,pattern for ,cradle ,rockers4 ,after the cigar-box toys have been made1 rub down the wood with fine sandpaper4 ,then drive all nail-heads below the surface1 fill up the holes with putty stained to match the wood as nearly as possible1 and finish with two coats of boiled linseed-oil4 ,apply the oil with a rag1 then wipe off all surplus oil with a dry cloth4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,,home-,,made ,,spool ,,and ,,cardboard ,,toys ,all that is required for making the little toys shown in this chapter are spools1 cardboard1 paper1 a straight-grained stick out of which to cut pegs1 some tacks1 pins1 and glue4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #bii4--;,doll ,carriage4 ,did you ever see a better model of ,a ,baby ,carriage than that shown in ,fig4 #bii1 with its rounded ends1 arched bottom1 and adjustable hood8 ,it is easy to make4 ,figure #cjj shows the details for constructing the carriage body4 ,cut four wooden pegs to fit loosely in the holes of four spools of equal size1 and make them of the right length so when slipped into the holes their ends will project about #a_/d inch beyond the spool ends4 ,then cut the bottom strip ,b #e inches long by the width of the spools1 bend it slightly as shown1 to give a curve to the carriage bottom1 and tack the ends of the strip to two of the spools 7,a74 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #cjj-cjb4--;,details of ,doll ,carriage4 ,the sides ,c are of cardboard and should be #a-a_/b inches wide at the widest point1 by the length of the carriage body4 ,punch holes through these side pieces in the right places for the ends of the pegs in spools ,a to stick through4 ,before fastening the side pieces to spools ,a1 you must attach the wheels 7,figs4 #cja and #cjb74 ,cut the cardboard uprights ,d #c-a_/b inches long and #a_/b inch wide2 then after cutting holes through each near the ends1 for the spool pegs to slip through1 cut down the width between the holes to about #a_/d inch 7,fig4 #cjb74 ,slip the lower ends of uprights ,d over the pegs in spool wheels ,e1 then the upper ends over the pegs in spools ,a4 ,glue the upper ends to the ends of spools ,a1 then slip the carriage sides ,c over the pegs of spools ,a1 and glue them in place4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cjc4--;,baby ,carriage ,hood4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cjd4--;,diagram of ,hood4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cje4--;,carriage ,handles4 ,the carriage hood 7,fig4 #cjc7 is made of a piece of stiff paper about #d-a_/b inches square 7,fig4 #cjd71 slashed in three places along two opposite edges for a distance of about #a-a_/b inches1 and then folded over as indicated by dotted lines4 ,bring together the ends of the slashed edges of the piece of paper1 as shown in ,fig4 #cjc1 coat them with glue1 and press together until the glue has dried4 ,punch a hole through each side of the top1 as shown1 for the projecting ends of the spool peg to slip through4 ,the carriage handle is made of two cardboard strips 7,f1 ,fig4 #cje71 and a match 7,g74 ,stick the match through holes made near the ends of strips ,f1 and glue the lower ends of the strips to the inside face of the sides 7,fig4 #bii74 ,this completes the carriage4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cjf4--,the ,two-wheel ,cart4 ,,fig4 #cjg-cji4--;,details of ,cart4 ,the ,two-wheel ,cart 7,fig4 #cjf7 is made of a small box cover1 and one of the spools on which crochet-cotton comes4 ,prepare a bent piece of cardboard like that shown in ,fig4 #cjh1 with ends ,a turned down at the proper points so there will be only room enough between them for the spool to turn freely4 ,punch a hole through each turned down end for a stick axle to run through4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #caj4--,merry-go-round4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #caa4--,teeter4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cab4--;,cardboard ,strip for ,merry-go-round and ,teeter4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cac4--;,boy and ,girl ,riders for ,merry-go-round and ,teeter4 ,then cut two slots through the box cover the same distance apart as ends ,a 7,fig4 #cjg71 centering the pair both crosswise and lengthwise of the cover1 and stick ends ,a through the slots and glue portion ,b to the cover4 ,cut the wheel axle enough smaller than the spool hole so the spool will turn easily1 then push it through the hole in the spool and the holes in ends ,a4 ,glue the end of a cardboard strip to the under side of the cover for a shaft4 ,the ,toy ,merry-go-round in ,fig4 #caj consists of a strip of heavy cardboard turned up at its ends 7,fig4 #cab71 tacked at its center to the end of a stick cut small enough to turn easily in the hole in a spool4 ,the spool slipped over the stick is grasped by the right hand1 and the left hand starts the merry-go-round and keeps it in motion by twirling the stick to which the cardboard strip is fastened4 ,the boy and girl riders1 shown in ,fig4 #cac are of the right size so you can trace them off upon a piece of tracing-paper and then transfer to cardboard4 ,after cutting them out of the cardboard1 color both sides with crayons or water-colors1 and glue them to the turned-up ends of the cardboard strip4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cad4--;,doll ,swing4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cae4--;,detail of ,swing4 ,the ,teeter-,board 7,fig4 #caa7 is made of the same kind of a strip as that used for the merry-go-round 7,fig4 #cab74 ,tack this strip at its center to the side of a spool1 and mount the spool in a cardboard frame in the same way that the spool wheels of the cart are mounted 7,figs4 #cjh and #cji72 but make the peg axle to fit tight in the spool hole4 ,prepare a boy and girl rider similar to those made for the merry-go-round 7,fig4 #cac74 ,the teeter is operated by turning the end of the spool axle first one way then the other4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #caf and #cag4--;,details of ,swing ,seat4 ,the ,doll ,swing shown in ,fig4 #cad has a cardboard base1 with two spools fastened to it #d inches apart to support the framework4 ,tack the base to the ends of the spools4 ,the framework uprights are tightly rolled tubes of paper #aj or #ab inches long1 and the top crosspiece is another paper tube #d inches long4 ,stick the lower ends of the uprights into the spool holes2 then fasten the crosspiece to their tops by running pins through it and into the upright ends 7,fig4 #cae71 and then lashing the connections with thread as shown in ,fig4 #cad4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cah4--,sofa4 ,the swing seat is made of a spool with a cardboard back fastened to it 7,figs4 #caf and #cag74 ,suspend the spool with thread from the top of the swing crosspiece4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #cai-cba4--;,details of ,sofa4 ,a ,sofa with arm rolls1 like that shown in ,fig4 #cah1 is a good example of what can be made in spool-and-cardboard doll furniture4 ,prepare the seat and back out of a single piece of cardboard1 curving the top and ends of the back as shown1 and making the width of the seat the same as the length of the spool arms4 ,fasten the spools by means of a strip of paper bent over them as shown in ,fig4 #cbj1 and glued to the seat4 ,use small silk-thread spools 7,fig4 #cba7 for feet1 and glue them to the seat at the four corners4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbb4--;,chair4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbc4--,square ,center-table4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbd4--,round ,center-table4 ,the ,chair 7,fig4 #cbb7 has a seat and back made out of a single piece of cardboard1 with one-third of its length bent out for the seat4 ,glue the seat to a spool base4 ,the ,square ,center-table 7,fig4 #cbc7 has a crochet-cotton spool pedestal1 and its top is a square piece of cardboard4 ,glue the spool to the exact center of the top4 ,the ,round ,center-table 7,fig4 #cbd7 is made similarly4 ,use the rim of a cup for marking out the circular top4 ,with a little ingenuity you will be able to devise a great many other pieces of doll furniture1 and other toys as well4 ,,chapter ,,xx ,a ,,home-,,made ,,toy ,,mail-,,box ,who wants to play at being ,uncle ,sam1 and have a postal system right in the house1 or out on the front porch where it will be convenient for the children next door to enjoy it1 too8 ,every small boy and girl loves to play postman1 collect mail from the toy mail-box1 cancel the stamps1 sort out the letters into the proper routes1 and then deliver them to those whom they are addressed to4 ,the mail-box shown in ,figs4 #cbe and #cbf is easily made1 and with ,the ,working ,material on hand can be completed in an evening4 ,two sheets of cardboard1 a piece of muslin1 some silver paper or paint1 a piece of tape about #b yards long1 and a needle and thread1 are required4 ,the cardboard should be stiff enough to hold its shape1 and yet be of light enough weight to cut and fold easily4 ,sheets #bb inches by #bh inches can be bought at any printing-shop1 and at some stationery stores1 and will not cost more than #aj cents a sheet at the most4 ,if you have some large cardboard boxes1 however1 you can use them instead by so laying out the different parts that the corners of the boxes will come in the right places for the corners of the mail-box4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbg4--;,diagram for ,making ,sides1 ,ends1 and ,bottom of ,mail-box4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbh4--;,diagram for ,making ,top4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbi4--;,diagram for ,making ,end ,pieces of ,letter-,drop4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ccj4--;,diagram for ,making ,front ,piece of ,letter-,drop4 ,figure #cbg shows the diagrams for ,making the ,sides1 ,ends1 and ,bottom of the mail-box1 with the dimensions of every portion marked upon them4 ,use a ruler with which to guide your pencil in drawing the straight lines1 and a compass or the rim of a #i-;inch plate for describing the arcs for the round tops of the end pieces4 ,you will see that the front1 one end1 and the bottom are made in one piece1 and that the back1 other end1 and a second bottom 7to make that portion doubly strong7 are cut from another piece4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbe4--,,the ,,home-,,made ,,mail-,,box ,,strapped ,,to ,,the ,,face ,,of ,a ,,door4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cbf4--,,the ,,home-,,made ,,mail-,,box ,,strapped ,,to ,a ,,chair ,,back4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cca4--,the ,sides1 ,ends1 and ,bottom folded ready to be put ,together4 ,the dotted lines upon the diagram indicate where the cardboard should be folded4 ,figure #cca shows the sides1 ends1 and bottom folded ready to be put together4 ,turn the flaps inside1 and glue them to the end pieces1 and glue the two bottom pieces together2 also sew the cardboard with a double thread to make the joining doubly secure4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ccb4--,top1 showing how ,portion is ,bent up for ,back of ,letter-,drop4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ccc4--;,ends of ,letter-,drop4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ccd4--;,front of ,letter-,drop4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cce4--,top1 with ,letter-,drop ,completed4 ,the ,top of the ,box--the diagram for the cutting of which is shown in ,fig4 #cbh--;has a piece #c by #g inches cut out on all but one long side1 and bent up to form the top of ,the ,letter-,drop 7,fig4 #ccb74 ,the diagram for the ends of the letter-drop is shown in ,fig4 #cbi1 and for the front in ,fig4 #ccj2 ,fig4 #ccc shows how cloth flaps are glued to the end piece2 and ,fig4 #cce shows how the end pieces are fastened to the top of the box by means of these flaps4 ,glue a strip of cloth to each side of the lower edge of the letter-drop front piece for hinges 7,fig4 #ccd71 and glue one to the inside and the other to the outside of the top of the box 7,fig4 #cce74 ,attach rubber-bands to the front and ends of the drop to make it spring shut4 ,glue and sew the top of the box to the flaps provided on the front and back for the purpose4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ccf4--;,diagram for ,making ,collection-drop4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #ccg4--;,how the ,collection-drop is ,folded4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cch4--,the ,collection-drop ,hinged in ,place4 ,figure #ccf shows the diagram for ,the ,collection-drop1 and ,fig4 #ccg how it looks folded4 ,hinge the drop to the box with a cloth strip 7,fig4 #cch74 ,reinforcement4 ,when the work has been finished thus far1 cut a number of strips of muslin #a inch wide and reinforce the corners with them4 ,then take the #b-yard length of tape1 which you procured1 and sew it to the back of the box to hang it up by4 ,covering the ,box4 ,silver paper makes the nicest finish for the mail-box1 and can be bought of a stationer2 but you may paint the cardboard with aluminum radiator paint instead if you prefer4 ,if you use silver paper1 stick it on with flour paste4 ,after the paper or paint has dried1 paste ,a ,collection ,schedule ,card upon the front of the box4 ,you will need1 also1 to ,letter the words1 ,pull ,down1 ,letters1 etc41 where they are shown in the illustrations4 ,hang up the ,mail-box by means of its tape strap1 within easy reach1 upon the face of a door 7,fig4 #cbe71 or to the back of a chair 7,fig4 #cbf74 ,for a ,mail-bag use a school-book bag1 or make one just like a real postman's out of brown denim or cambric4 ,letter ,u4 ,s4 ,mail upon the bag with black paint1 or cut the letters from black or white muslin and glue them in place4 ,provide a long strap to reach over the postman's shoulder4 ,the ,way to ,play ,post-,office is for several children to attend to the writing of letters and wrapping of parcels1 another to play mail clerk1 who puts the post-marks on the mail and sorts it out into routes and another to play postman4 ,canceled stamps from old letters may be re-used on the play letters1 and a rubber-stamp dater such as they sell at the stationer's for #aj cents may be used for printing the post-marks4 ,,chapter ,,xxi ,a ,,home-,,made ,,reflectoscope ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cci4--,the ,complete ,reflectoscope4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cdj4--;,detail of ,ventilator ,top4 ,this reflecting lantern1 shown completed in ,fig4 #cci1 is more magical in its operation than a magic-lantern is1 because1 instead of projecting through transparent slides1 it reflects opaque pictures4 ,that makes it possible to use magazine and newspaper pictures1 post cards1 and photograph prints4 ,you may reflect a greatly enlarged picture of the movements of your watch1 and by placing your face against the opening in the reflectoscope1 you may show a view of your mouth opening and closing1 giant size4 ,the ease with which slides are obtained makes this a desirable lantern to own4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cda4--,plan of ,reflectoscope4 ,the ,material4 ,you must get a box about #aj by #aj by #bj inches in size for the case of the reflectoscope1 two oil-lamps1 or two #af or #cb candle-power electric lamps with the parts necessary for connecting them to the electric lighting circuit1 three #a-lb4 baking-powder cans and two tomato cans1 two pieces of tin about #f by #aj inches in size1 and a lens from a camera1 field glass1 opera glass1 magic-lantern or bicycle-lamp4 ,the bottom of the box will be the front of the reflectoscope4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cdb4--;,cross-section of ,reflectoscope4 ,cut the ,lens ,opening through this1 at the center of its length1 and a trifle above the center of its width4 ,make the hole a trifle larger than the lens4 ,cut ,ventilator ,holes #c inches in diameter through the uppermost side of the box1 near to the ends and bottom4 ,figures #cda and #cdb show ,the ,interior ,arrangement of the reflectoscope4 ,place the lamps in the corners of the box1 next to the front1 and tack in back of them the pieces of tin for reflectors 7,a1 ,figs4 #cda and #cdb74 ,bend the reflectors to the curve shown4 ,if ,oil ,lamps are ,used1 their tops will project through the ventilation holes1 as shown in ,fig4 #cdb4 ,these openings must be inclosed with ,a ,hood which will ,conceal the ,light1 yet allow the heat to escape4 ,the most satisfactory arrangement is that shown in ,figs4 #cci and #cdb4 ,a baking-powder can with its bottom removed 7,b7 is slipped over the lamp chimney and fitted into the ventilation hole2 then a tomato-can 7,c7 is inverted over the top of the can and fastened in the slotted ends of three wooden peg stilts 7,d1 ,fig4 #cdj71 and the pegs are fitted into holes made in the top of the box 7,figs4 #cci and #cdb74 ,fasten the can in the slots of the stilts with tacks 7,fig4 #cdj74 ,if ,electric ,light is ,used1 the hooded ventilators may be omitted4 ,any boy who understands the wiring of electric-lamp sockets1 plugs1 and drop-cord will know how to wire up the reflectoscope4 ,mount the ,lens in a can or mailing-tube jacket 7,fig4 #cdc74 ,if you use a can1 remove the bottom4 ,if the lens is smaller in diameter1 make a band of cardboard strips to fit around the edge1 as shown in ,fig4 #cdd1 and glue these strips to the inside of the can or mailing-tube4 ,the lens jacket should fit loosely enough in the reflectoscope box opening so it will slide back and forth for focusing4 ,make a tin collar to fit around the jacket1 and tack it to the front of the box1 to prevent light from escaping 7,fig4 #cci74 ,before putting on the back of the reflectoscope box1 ,putty up all ,cracks between the boards in the top and front1 to make the box light-tight2 then ,paint the ,inside of the ,box and the cover boards with lamp-black thinned with turpentine1 so there will be no reflections other than those produced by the lamp reflectors and the picture4 ,illustration3 ,,figs4 #cdc and #cdd4--;,details of ,lens ,mounting4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cde4--,view of ,back of ,reflectoscope4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #cdf4--;,detail of ,post ,card ,holder4 ,nail the ,back ,boards in ,place1 leaving an opening about #g inches square directly opposite the lens4 ,cut a piece of board to fit this opening 7,e1 ,fig4 #cde7 for ,the ,picture ,holder1 and hinge it in place4 ,a frame for post cards to slide in should be fastened to the picture holder1 as shown in ,fig4 #cdf4 ,first nail strips ,f to board ,e1 then tack strips ,g to them so their edges project over strips ,f4 ,a little wooden button 7,h1 ,fig4 #cde7 will fasten the holder board shut while each picture is being projected4 ,the ,lens ,reverses ,pictures in projecting them1 and in order to have them projected right-side up on the screen it is necessary to slip them into the holder frame upside down4 ,adjustments4 ,after you have built your reflectoscope1 you may find it does not throw sharply-defined images upon your projection screen4 ,in that case you must readjust the focus of the lens1 the curve of the lamp reflectors1 and the distance between the lens and the projection screen1 until the best possible results are obtained4 ,inasmuch as the positions will vary with different lenses1 it is impossible for me to give any hard and fast measurements4 ,you will have to determine the distances yourself4 ,the stronger the light1 the brighter the projected image will be2 therefore1 use the strongest light you can get1 and place the lantern not more than five feet away from the screen4 ,unless you use an anastigmat lens such as the better grade of cameras are fitted with1 you will discover that the corners of pictures are indistinct when you have brought the centers to a sharp focus4 ,this indistinctness can be corrected to a great extent by blocking out the holder to curve the post cards and other pictures so that the ends are closer to the lens than the center is4 ,,index ,a ,airships1 clockwork flying1 #ajb4 ,animal targets for toy shooting gallery1 #adb4 ,apartment building1 doll1 #afe4 ,automobile1 clockwork1 #ajd4 ,automobile delivery wagon1 clockwork1 #aab2 cigar-box1 #aib4 ,b ,baby carriage1 doll1 #aif4 ,ballast1 toy elevator1 #fc4 ,balusters1 doll-house stairway1 #aed4 ,battery1 a bi-chromate of potash1 #ace4 ,bead portieres1 doll-house1 #aeg4 ,beds1 doll-house1 #ahc1 #ahg4 ,bi-chromate battery fluid1 #acf4 ,boat1 toy motor-1 #cc4 ,box-kite1 #ab4 ,bridle1 ,malay kite1 #ab2 box-kite1 #af4 ,buzz-saw whirligig1 #ga4 ,c ,cables1 toy elevator1 #fa1 #fi2 electro-magnet derrick1 #abc4 ,cardboard toys1 #aif4 ,carpets1 doll-house1 #aeg4 ,carriage1 doll baby1 #aif4 ,cars1 toy railway1 #ej2 gondola1 #eb2 street1 #eb2 other forms of1 #ef2 elevator1 #fj1 #fh1 #aej2 ,ferris wheel1 #ii4 ,cart1 cigar-box1 #aib2 cardboard1 #aii4 ,chairs1 cigar-box1 #agf1 #aid1 #aie2 cardboard1 #bjc4 ,chauffeur for clockwork automobile1 #aaa4 ,cigar-boxes1 to prepare1 for use1 #age4 ,cigar-box toys1 #aia4 ,clock1 a grandfather's1 #ahb4 ,clock wheel top1 #ha4 ,clockwork automobile1 #ajd4 ,clockwork automobile delivery wagon1 #aab4 ,clockwork ,ferris wheel1 #if4 ,clockwork flying airships1 #ajb4 ,clockwork merry-go-round1 #hi4 ,clockwork motors1 #hi1 #ig2 increasing speed of1 #ajc4 ,clockwork railway1 #aaf4 ,clockwork toys1 #hh4 ,clog-dancer1 toy1 #gb4 ,control1 toy elevator1 #fe4 ,cosey-corner1 doll-house1 #aeh4 ,counter-balance1 #fa1 #fi4 ,cradle1 doll's1 #aie4 ,cricket-rattle1 #ge4 ,curtains1 doll-house1 #aeg4 ,d ,decorating1 doll-house1 #aef2 doll apartment1 #agc4 ,delivery-wagon1 clockwork automobile1 #aab2 cigar-box1 #aib4 ,derrick1 electro-magnet1 #aag4 ,doll apartment building1 #afe4 ,doll-house1 #ade2 furnishing the1 #aef4 ,dresser1 doll1 #ahe1 #ahi4 ,e ,egg-beater motor-winder1 #ca4 ,electrical toys1 #aag4 ,electric motor truck1 toy1 #acb4 ,electro-magnet1 #aah4 ,electro-magnet derrick1 #aag4 ,elevator1 model aeroplane1 #be4 ,elevators1 toy1 #ei4 ,elevator1 toy office building1 #ei2 an outdoor1 #fg2 doll-house1 #adh4 ,enlarging by squares1 #age4 ,express-wagon1 cigar-box1 #aib4 ,f ,feed-hoist1 toy stable1 #afc4 ,feed-troughs1 toy stable1 #afb4 ,ferris wheel1 clockwork1 #if4 ,fin1 model aeroplane1 #bf4 ,fireplace1 doll apartment1 #aga4 ,fixtures1 doll apartment lighting1 #aga4 ,floors1 toy office building1 #ei2 hardwood1 for doll-house1 #aeg4 ,flying airships1 clockwork1 #ajb4 ,flying-line for kites1 #ab4 ,folding-bed1 doll1 #ahg4 ,furniture1 cigar-box1 #agd1 #aid2 cardboard1 #bjc4 ,fuselage1 model aeroplane1 #bb4 ,g ,gable-ends1 doll-house1 #aea2 toy stable1 #afa4 ,garage1 toy 7see ,stable74 ,gondola car1 #eb4 ,grandfather's clock1 #ahb4 ,guides1 toy elevator1 #fa1 #fi1 #aej4 ,h ,hand-rail1 doll-house stairway1 #aec4 ,horses for merry-go-round1 cardboard1 #hf1 #ib4 ,house1 doll-1 #ade2 furnishing the doll-1 #aef2 doll apartment1 #afe2 furniture for doll-1 #agd1 #aid1 #bjc4 ,i ,induction-coil1 #abf4 ,interrupter1 shocking-machine1 #abi4 ,j ,jack-in-the-box1 cigar-box1 #aic4 ,jumping-jack1 #gd4 ,jumping-jack operated by windmill1 #g4 ,k ,kite1 a ,malay1 #i2 a box-1 #ab4 ,kite-reel1 a hand1 #ag2 a body1 #ai4 ,l ,launching a model aeroplane1 #ca4 ,lighting fixtures1 doll apartment1 #aga4 ,m ,magnet1 electro-1 #aah4 ,mail-bag1 toy1 #bji4 ,mail-box1 toy1 #bje4 ,malay kite1 #i4 ,mantel1 doll apartment1 #aga4 ,mechanical toys1 #ga4 ,merry-go-round1 top1 #he2 clockwork1 #hi2 cardboard1 #bja4 ,mirror1 doll-house1 #aha4 ,mission furniture1 doll1 #agd4 ,model aeroplane1 #ba2 propellers for1 #bg2 motors for1 #bi2 motor-winder for1 #ca2 launching a1 #ca4 ,motor-boat1 toy1 #cc4 ,motors1 clockwork1 #hi1 #ig2 increasing speed of1 #ajc4 ,motors1 model aeroplane1 #bi2 winder for1 #ca4 ,motors1 water-7see ,water-motor74 ,motor1 toy motor-boat1 #cg4 ,motor truck1 toy electric1 #acb4 ,motor-winder1 egg-beater1 #ca4 ,n ,newel-post1 doll-house stairway1 #aec4 ,o ,office building elevator1 toy1 #ei4 ,p ,partitions1 toy office building1 #fj2 doll-house1 #ade2 stable stall1 #afb4 ,pictures1 doll-house1 #aeh4 ,pinion-wheel windmill1 #b4 ,pinwheel1 a paper1 #a4 ,pistol1 toy1 card-shooting1 #adc4 ,planes1 model aeroplane1 #bd4 ,portieres1 doll-house1 #aeg4 ,post-office with mail-box1 to play1 #bji4 ,primary coil1 induction-coil1 #abg4 ,propeller-shaft1 model aeroplane1 #bi2 toy motor-boat1 #ce4 ,propellers1 model aeroplane1 #bg4 ,propeller1 toy motor-boat1 #ce4 ,pulley-wheel1 #db1 #de1 #fb1 #aea4 ,r ,race-track1 spinning-top1 #hb4 ,railway1 toy1 #dg2 trolley-line for1 #dg2 power for1 #di2 tracks for1 #ej2 cars for1 #ej2 gondola car for1 #eb2 street car for1 #eb2 other cars for1 #ef2 operation of1 #ef2 station for1 #eg2 clockwork1 #aaf4 ,rattle1 cricket1 #ge4 ,reel1 a hand kite-1 #ag2 a body kite-1 #ai4 ,reflectoscope1 #baj4 ,riders for merry-go-round1 #hf1 #id4 ,risers1 doll-house stairway1 #aec4 ,rugs1 doll-house1 #aeg4 ,rug-tack top1 #hb4 ,s ,secondary-coil1 induction-coil1 #abg4 ,settee1 doll1 #agh4 ,shocking machine1 #abd4 ,shoe-polish can top1 #hc4 ,shooting gallery1 toy1 #adj4 ,side-board1 doll1 #ahj4 ,sleighs for merry-go-round1 cardboard1 #ic4 ,sofa1 doll1 #bjc4 ,spinning-top race-track1 #hb4 ,spiral top1 #he4 ,spool and cardboard toys1 #aif4 ,spool top1 #hb4 ,stable1 toy1 #afj4 ,stairway for doll-house1 #aeb1 #aed4 ,station for toy railway1 #eg4 ,straw portieres1 doll-house1 #aeh4 ,street car1 toy1 #eb4 ,swing1 doll1 #bjb4 ,switch1 electro-magnet derrick1 #aba4 ,t ,tables1 cigar-box1 #agi1 #ahj1 #aid2 cardboard1 #bjd4 ,tack top1 #hb4 ,targets1 toy shooting gallery1 #adb4 ,teeter-board1 #bja4 ,thrust bearings1 #bc1 #ce4 ,top1 clockwork1 #ha2 rug-tack1 #hb2 spool1 #hb2 spinning1 race-track1 #hb2 shoe-polish can1 #hc2 spiral1 #he2 merry-go-round1 #he4 ,tops1 #gi4 ,track1 spinning-top race1 #hb4 ,tracks1 toy railway1 #ej4 ,treads1 doll-house stairway1 #aec4 ,trolley-line1 toy railway1 #dg4 ,troughs1 toy stable feed-1 #afb4 ,truck1 toy electric motor1 #acb4 ,turtle toy1 #gf4 ,v ,varnish-can water-motor1 #ch4 ,w ,wagon1 cigar-box express-1 #aib4 ,wardrobe1 doll1 #aij4 ,wash-stand1 doll1 #ahf4 ,water-motor1 a varnish-can1 #ch2 another form of1 #db4 ,wheel1 clockwork ,ferris1 #if4 ,wheel1 water-motor1 #ci1 #dc4 ,whirligig1 a buzz-saw1 #ga4 ,winder1 model aeroplane motor-1 #ca4 ,windlass1 electro-magnet derrick1 #abc4 ,windmill1 a paper1 #a2 a pinion-wheel1 #b2 a four-blade1 #d2 an eight-blade1 #e2 jumping-,jack operated by a1 #g4 ,window-shades1 doll-house1 #aeg4