,transcriber's ,note ,emphasis notation for italic is ,text and bold is ,text4 ,whole and fractional parts of numbers is displayed as #b-a_/d4 ,exponents are prefaced by a carat 77 as ,e#a4 ,,rustic ,,carpentry ,,with ,,numerous ,,engravings ,,and ,,diagrams ,,edited ,,by ,,paul ,n4 ,,hasluck ,,editor ,,of ,,work ,,and ,,building ,,world ,,author ,,of ,,handybooks ,,for ,,handicrafts1 ,,etc4 ,,etc4 ,illustration ,,cassell ,,and ,,company1 ,,limited ,,london1 ,,paris1 ,,new ,,york ,,melbourne4 ,,mcmvii ,,all ,,rights ,,reserved ,,preface4 ,this ,handbook contains1 in a form convenient for everyday use1 a number of articles on ,rustic ,carpentry contributed by various authors to ,,work--one of the journals it is my fortune to edit4 ,readers who may desire additional information respecting special details of the matters dealt with in this ,handbook1 or instructions on kindred subjects1 should address a question to the ,editor of ,,work1 ,la ,belle ,sauvage1 ,london1 ,,ec41 so that it may be answered in the columns of that journal4 ,p4 ,n4 ,,hasluck4 ,la ,belle ,sauvage1 ,london4 ,april1 #aijg4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,,page ,i4--,light ,rustic ,work #i ,,ii4--,flower ,stands1 ,vases1 etc4 #bb ,,iii4--,tables #cf ,,iv4--,chairs and ,seats #dj ,v4--,gates and ,fences #eb ,,vi4--,rosery ,walk #ff ,,vii4--,porches #ga ,,viii4--,canopy for ,swing #gg ,,ix4--,aviary #hc ,x4--,foot-bridges #ib ,,xi4--,verandahs #ih ,,xii4--,tool ,houses1 ,garden ,shelters1 etc4 #ajf ,,xiii4--,summer ,houses #abf ,index #aei ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations4 ,,fig4 ,,page #a4--,photograph ,frame and ,wall ,bracket ,combined #aj #b4--,section of ,bracket #aa #c4--,small ,easel #ab #d4--;,attaching ,support to ,easel #ac #e4--,mitred ,joint #ac #f4--,mortise and ,tenon ,joint #ad #g1 #h4--;,flower ,holder #ad1 #ae #i-aa4--,rustic ,hall ,stand #ag #ab1 #ac4--,plant ,stool #ah #ad-af4--,window ,box #ai1 #bj #ag4--;,flower-pot ,stand #bc #ah4--;,bending ,saplings #bd #ai4--;,fixing ,rails1 etc41 to ,posts #bd #bj4--,vase on ,tripod ,stand #be #ba4--;,joint of ,hexagon ,sides of ,vase #be #bb4--,securing ,sides and ,legs of ,vase to ,base #be #bc4--,section of ,twigs at ,angles of ,vase #be #bd1 #be4--;,flower-pot ,stand #bf #bf4--;,joining ,rails to ,uprights #bg #bg4--,supporting ,end ,shelves of ,flower-pot ,stand #bg #bh4--;,fixing ,centre ,shelves of ,stand #bg #bi4--,large ,square ,vase #bh #cj4--,large ,hexagonal ,vase #bh #ca4--,vase with ,claw ,foot #bi #cb4--;,foot of ,rustic ,table #cj #cc4--;,garden ,plant ,tub #ca #cd1 #ce4--,mouldings #cb #cf4--,plant ,vase #cb #cg4--,rectangular ,garden ,plant ,stand #cc #ch-dj4--,rustic ,pedestal #cd #da4--;,flower-pot ,stand #ce #db4--,square ,table #cf #dc4--;,hexagon ,table #cg #dd1 #de4--,top of ,hexagon ,table #ch1 #ci #df4--;,armchair #dj #dg4--;,fixing ,seat ,rails to ,leg of ,armchair #da #dh4--,plan of ,armchair ,seat ,frame #da #di1 #ej4--;,garden ,seat #db1 #dc #ea4--;,joints of ,rails and ,posts #dc #eb4--;,arm-rest for ,garden ,seat #dd #ec4--,part ,plan of ,seat #dd #ed1 #ee4--;,garden ,seat #dd1 #de #ef4--;,front ,rail1 ,cross ,rail1 and ,battens #de #eg4--,part ,plan of ,seat #df #eh-fj4--;,garden ,seat with ,canopy #dg-di #fa4--,plan of ,canopy #ej #fb1 #fc4--;,canopy ,panels #ej #fd4--,plan of ,seat #ej #fe-fg4--;,garden ,gate #eb1 #ec #fh-gj4--;,joints in ,gate ,frame #ed #ga1 #gb4--;,fixing ,ends of ,twigs #ed #gc4--;,closing ,stile #ed #gd-gg4--,rustic ,gates #ee1 #ef #gh-hj4--;,fences #eg1 #eh #ha1 #hb4--,rustic ,trellis with ,seats and ,gate #ei #hc4--,vertical ,section of ,trellis #fj #hd4--;,end ,post and ,trellis #fj #he4--;,back of ,seat for ,trellis #fj #hf4--;,alternative ,design for ,gate #fa #hg4--;,hanging and ,latching ,gate #fb #hh4--;,catch for ,gate #fc #hi1 #ij4--,rustic ,carriage ,entrance #fd1 #fe #ia4--,rosery ,walk #fg #ib4--,roof of ,rosery ,walk #fh #ic4--;,entrance to ,rosery ,walk #fi #id1 #ie4--,porch #gb1 #gc #if4--,seat and ,floor of ,cottage ,porch #gd #ig4--,porch at ,gable #gd #ih4--,porch at ,eaves #ge #ii4--,roof for ,porch #ge #ajj4--;,gable for ,porch #gf #aja1 #ajb4--,rustic ,canopy for ,swing #gg1 #gh #ajc4--;,fixing ,middle ,post of ,canopy to ,sill #gi #ajd4--;,joints of ,rails1 ,struts1 and ,posts for ,canopy #gi #aje4--,securing ,cross ,rails to ,plates and ,posts of ,canopy #hj #ajf1 #ajg4--;,hook and ,thimble for ,canopy #hj #ajh1 #aji4--;,fenced ,seat for ,canopy #ha #aaj4--;,fixing ,rope to ,eyelet #ha #aaa1 #aab4--;,aviary #hd1 #he #aac1 #aad4--;,joint of ,rails and ,uprights for ,aviary #he #aae4--,sectional ,plan of ,aviary #hf #aaf4--;,cross ,section of ,aviary #hg #aag4--;,half ,under ,view of ,bottom of ,aviary #hh #aah4--;,door ,wires for ,aviary #hh #aai4--,part ,longitudinal ,section of ,aviary #hi #abj4--;,half ,plan of ,aviary ,roof #ij #aba1 #abb4--,rustic ,foot-bridge #ib1 #ic #abc4--;,girders for ,foot-bridge #ic #abd1 #abe4--;,joint of ,post and ,girder #ic #abf4--,middle ,rail and ,post of ,foot-bridge #id #abg1 #abh4--;,joint of ,strut to ,post of ,foot-bridge #id #abi4--,twig ,hollowed to ,fit ,rail #id #acj4--;,elevated ,bridge #ie #aca4--;,girder and ,post bolted to ,sleeper #if #acb4--;,elevated ,foot-bridge at ,lower ,step 7,fig4 #acj7 #if #acc1 #acd4--,verandah #ii1 #aja #ace4--;,bottom of ,post for ,glazed ,verandah #ajc #acf4--,top of ,post for ,glazed ,verandah #ajc #acg1 #ach4--,rustic ,tool ,house #ajf1 #ajg #aci4--;,common ,method of ,using ,slabs #ajh #adj4--;,ground ,plan of ,rustic ,tool ,house #aji #ada4--;,cap of ,tool ,house ,pilaster #aaa #adb4--;,garden ,snuggery #aab #adc4--;,ground ,framework of ,garden ,snuggery #aac #add4--;,back ,framework for ,garden ,snuggery #aac #ade4--,snuggery ,porch #aad #adf4--,window-board #aae #adg1 #adh4--,sections of ,snuggery ,walls #aag #adi-aea4--;,garden ,retreat #aah-aba #aeb4--,seat of ,garden ,retreat #abb #aec4--;,joint of ,garden ,retreat at ,c 7,fig4 #aea7 #abc #aed4--;,detail of ,front ,joints 7see ,c1 ,fig4 #aea7 #abd #aee4--;,alternative ,method of ,joining ,rails to ,posts #abd #aef4--,section of ,middle ,rail at ,a 7,fig4 #aeb7 #abe #aeg4--;,detail of ,middle ,rail at ,b 7,fig4 #aeb7 #abe #aeh-afa4--,lean-to ,summer ,house #abf-aca #afb-afd4--,shelter for ,tennis ,lawn #acc1 #acd #afe4--;,connecting ,plates to ,corner ,post #ace #aff4--;,fixing ,sleeper to ,posts #ace #afg4--,section of ,flooring #ace #afh4--;,finial #ace #afi4--;,garden ,shelter at ,front ,eaves #ace #agj4--,section of ,seat #ace #aga4--,strapping ,cushion to ,seat #acg #agb-agd4--,octagonal ,summer ,house #acg1 #aci #age4--;,collar ,posts and ,ends of ,wall ,plates #ada #agf4--,timbers over ,entrance of ,octagonal ,summer ,house #ada #agg4--,window ,side of ,octagonal ,summer ,house #adc #agh1 #agi4--,table for ,octagonal ,summer ,house #ade #ahj4--,seat ,side of ,octagonal ,summer ,house #adg #aha4--,mosaic ,seats #adi #ahb-ahd4--,octagonal ,summer ,house with ,three ,gables #aea-aec #ahe1 #ahf4--,roof for ,octagonal ,summer ,house #aec #ahg4--,securing ,glass to ,rustic ,casement #aed #ahh1 #ahi4--;,door for ,octagonal ,summer ,house #aee #aij4--,part ,plan of ,octagonal ,summer ,house #aef #aia4--;,horizontal ,section through ,door ,posts #aef #aib4--,part ,section of ,side ,panel #aeg #aic4--;,fixing ,plate to ,posts #aeg #aid4--;,finial #aeg ,,rustic ,,carpentry4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,light ,,rustic ,,work4 ,rustic carpentry does not demand great skill in woodworking1 but it does require a large amount of artistic perception4 ,the tools needed are but few1 and the materials employed are comparatively cheap1 although in many districts they are becoming dearer every year4 ,it may be said that any articles made from the now popular bamboo may be made quite as effectively in light rustic work4 ,for light rustic work1 sticks of hazel1 cherry1 yew1 blackthorn1 birch1 larch1 fir1 and the prunings of many varieties of shrubs may be used2 but it is necessary that the material should be cut at the proper season1 and thoroughly dried before being worked up4 ,the sticks should be cut in mid-winter1 as at that time the sap is at rest2 if cut in the summer time the bark will peel off4 ,if peeled sticks are required1 they should be cut in the spring1 when the sap is rising1 as at that time the rind will come off easily4 ,in some districts the copses are cleared of undergrowth periodically1 and the sticks 7generally hazel7 sold to hurdle and spar makers4 ,a selection of these sticks would be very suitable for the purpose here described4 ,the sticks should be stacked in an open shed in an upright position if possible1 and in such a manner that the air can freely circulate around them4 ,when they are required for fishing rods or walking sticks they are hung up to season--this keeps them straighter2 but the hanging of them up is not necessary for the work about to be dealt with4 ,when the sticks have been put away for from six to twelve months1 according to size1 they will be ready for use1 after being rubbed with a cloth or brushed to clean off the dust and bring up the colour of the bark4 ,fir cones may often be worked into a design1 and bits of rough bark and the warts and burrs found on old elm trees may be collected by the rustic worker and put by for future use4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4--,photograph ,frame and ,wall ,bracket ,combined4 ,one method of treatment for designs in light rustic work is to split the sticks and use them to overlay the work with a ,swiss pattern1 as shown by ,fig4 #a2 another method is to work the sticks up after the manner that canes are used in bamboo furniture 7see ,figs4 #c and #db1 pp4 #ab and #cf74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4--,section of ,bracket1 showing ,fixing of ,glass4 ,fig4 #a represents a wall bracket with a photograph or mirror in the frame4 ,to make this1 the piece forming the back is first cut out of #c_/h-;in4 deal4 ,the shelf1 of #c_/d-;in4 deal1 is then nailed to the bottom edge4 ,some straight hazel1 fir1 or other sticks are next selected and split2 these are nailed round the edges of the back1 and round the opening at the centre4 ,the pieces round the opening overlap the edges about #a_/d in41 to form a rebate for the glass4 ,the bare spaces at the sides and top may be covered in the following manner3 ,take a piece of brown elm bark and run a saw into it4 ,catch the sawdust1 and1 after warming the wood1 cover it with thin glue4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4--,small ,easel in ,rustic ,work4 ,sprinkle the brown sawdust on the glued surface1 and sufficient will adhere to cover the deal and give the frame a rustic appearance4 ,cork-dust or filings may be used instead of sawdust4 ,bunches of fir or larch cones are nailed to the corners1 as illustrated2 these should be pared at the back with knife or chisel to a flat surface4 ,the outer edge of the shelf is finished with an edging of short lengths of split stick nailed on4 ,the general construction of the bracket1 and the method of fixing the glass1 will be clear from ,fig4 #b1 which is a section through the centre4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4--,method of ,attaching ,support to ,easel4 ,a small easel for photographs1 or1 if constructed larger1 for a fire-screen1 is shown by ,fig4 #c4 ,it is made entirely of round sticks4 ,fig4 #d illustrates the method of attaching the back support--namely1 by means of a couple of staples1 which may be made out of a hairpin4 ,in jointing round sticks together1 the joints may be mitred by notching a ,v-shaped piece out of one stick and cutting the other to fit 7,fig4 #e72 or a mortise and tenon1 as represented by ,fig4 #f1 may be used4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e--,mitred ,joint4 ,in making the easel 7,fig4 #c71 the top and bottom bars are mitred to the sides1 and the central upright to the top and bottom bars4 ,the joints are secured by either brads or panel pins4 ,care must be taken to bore for the nails with a bradawl1 as nothing looks worse than splits in the work4 ,the upright piece in the centre of the top bar may be secured by driving a long panel pin into the lower upright through the top bar1 filing the head to a point to form a dowel1 and driving the top piece on with a hammer4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4--,mortise and ,tenon ,joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4--,rustic ,flower ,holder for ,table ,decoration4 ,where a small stick is joined to a larger one1 as in the case of the filling-in pieces1 a flat may be made with a knife or chisel on the larger stick1 and the smaller one cut to fit and nailed on4 ,in making a small easel1 only a single stick attached to the centre upright will be required to form a back support1 but for a larger one it will be preferable to frame it as shown by ,fig4 #c4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4--,rustic ,flower ,holder ,complete1 with ,cocoanut ,vase in ,position4 ,the finished articles may be either stained and varnished or left plain4 ,cherry sticks look well if the bark is left the natural colour1 and the ends1 where exposed1 cleaned off and varnished without being stained4 ,some sticks improve in colour if rubbed over with a rag moistened with linseed oil4 ,if a stain is required1 one that is sold in bottles would be suitable1 but a little vandyke brown1 ground in water1 and applied with a sponge1 answers the purpose4 ,sometimes1 as in the case of the table top 7see ,fig4 #db1 p4 #cf71 it is a good plan to stain the wood before nailing on the pattern work1 or there will be danger1 if the sticks are dark in colour1 of the lighter wood showing through4 ,if the rustic work is intended to be placed out of doors1 it should be given two or three coats of hard outside varnish4 ,the rustic flower-holder for table decoration1 shown by ,fig4 #g1 consists simply of a gipsy tripod formed with six rustic sticks1 put together in the form shown1 and tied with a length of bass4 ,there is no attempt made at finish1 but the sticks must be firmly tied together at the joints1 and the ends of the bass can be left1 either hanging loose or tied in a bow4 ,the holder for the flowers is a cocoanut shell1 which has been sawn in two1 so as to leave one part a sort of cup or egg shape2 three holes are bored with a bradawl at equal distances round the edge1 and it is suspended from the tripod with three more pieces of the bass1 which completes the arrangement4 ,of course1 any small receptacle can be used in place of the cocoanut shell1 but that1 perhaps1 carries out the rustic appearance the best1 and is very easily obtained4 ,fig4 #h is an attempt to show the tripod when decorated4 ,the rustic hall-stand shown by ,figs4 #i to #aa was made actually from branches and twigs of an old apple tree4 ,the uprights and principal cross-pieces are #g_/h in4 thick1 and the criss-cross pieces are #a_/b in4 thick4 ,the bottom is made of four pieces #a-a_/b in4 thick4 ,the longer ones measure #a ft4 #h in41 and the shorter ones #a ft4 #b in42 they are nailed together in such a manner that the ends at the two front corners each cross and project #b-a_/b in4 ,the front uprights are #b ft4 high1 the back ones #b ft4 #b in42 the longer cross-pieces are #a ft4 #h in41 the shorter #aa in4 ,the ends intersect and project #c in4 at each of the front corners2 only the longest piece projects #c in4 at the back corners1 the shorter pieces being cut off flush with the frame to allow of the stand fitting close to a wall4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #i and #aj4--;,front and ,side ,elevations of ,rustic ,hall ,stand4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4--,plan of ,rustic ,hall ,stand1 showing ,umbrella ,pan4 ,these cross-pieces are nailed to the uprights to allow the top ends of the latter to project #b in4 above them1 this bringing the measurement of the oblong inner framework to #a ft4 #aj in4 by #a ft4 #b in4 ,the thin pieces are nailed on as shown in ,fig4 #i1 being interlaced as much as possible4 ,the back of the stand is treated in a similar manner4 ,the whole of the wood is used as rough as possible1 the bark being retained1 with the knots1 etc42 the ends are1 however1 pared off smooth with a chisel4 ,two coats of varnish finish the stand1 save for the addition of a receptacle to catch the drainings from umbrellas1 and for this the stand illustrated has a painted baking-tin ,a 7,fig4 #aa74 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #ab and #ac4--;,elevation and ,plan of ,plant ,stool4 ,the rustic stool 7,figs4 #ab and #ac7 is intended to be made in pairs1 and placed one on each side of the umbrella-stand above described1 each supporting a plant1 such as a fern or palm4 ,the top of each stool is cut from #i in4 square #a-;in4 wood 7wood from an old box answers well71 and is sawn into an octagonal shape4 ,a double row of pieces of apple1 maple1 or some other wood with good bark1 is nailed around the edges1 thicker pieces being used at the bottom than at the top to give a graduated appearance4 ,the entire top is then covered with straight pieces of stick1 selected for the beauty of their bark4 ,all pieces are nailed on with cut brads4 ,the four legs are formed of #a-;in4 apple-wood #i in4 long4 ,they are bevelled at the top to fit a square block of wood1 #b in4 thick and #c in4 long1 which is firmly secured to the top by two screws4 ,this piece of wood should be fastened to the top before the rustic rods are placed in position4 ,two #b-a_/b-;in4 wire nails through each of the legs hold them quite securely to the central block4 ,portions of rustic wood1 from #a_/d in4 to #c_/h in4 in diameter1 are then nailed across the legs1 as shown in ,fig4 #ab1 the ends being allowed to cross each other and project about #a in4 all ways4 ,the whole stool1 when finished1 stands #aj-a_/b in4 high1 and is so strong that it will support a heavy man with safety4 ,the block of wood to which the legs are attached should be stained to match the rustic wood2 permanganate of potash solution will effect this4 ,finally1 two coats of clear varnish give a good finish to the work4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4--,window ,box4 ,window boxes are illustrated by ,figs4 #ad to #af4 ,that shown by ,fig4 #ad is made from a raisin box obtained from a grocer4 ,such boxes are not costly1 and to buy and knock these up for rough uses is often more economical than buying new material4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae4--,more ,elaborate ,window ,box4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #af4--;,cross ,section of ,window ,box in ,position4 ,take care that the boards are stout enough to hold the brads firmly4 ,the box measures about #ba in4 by #g in4 by #g in41 and is wholly covered with mosaic of dark and light strips in panels4 ,strips are also nailed on the upper edges4 ,the more elaborate window box 7,figs4 #ae and #af7 can be made of a size to fit the window for which it is intended4 ,a few holes should be bored in the bottom for drainage1 and the front board is cut to the shape shown and the rustic ornament is nailed to the box and forms no part of the construction4 ,in ,fig4 #af wedge pieces are shown fitted to the stone sill to bring the box level2 it is kept in position by two metal angle-pieces screwed both to the wood sill and to the back of the box4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,flower ,,stands1 ,,vases1 ,,etc4 ,the rustic-work flower stand 7,fig4 #ag7 may be #c ft4 high by #c ft4 #f in4 long by #i in4 wide4 ,for the legs1 select four curved saplings #c ft4 #c in4 long by #b-a_/b in4 in diameter2 and as some difficulty may be experienced in obtaining them with the natural curves sufficiently alike1 artificial methods of bending must be resorted to4 ,therefore get the saplings from #b ft4 to #c ft4 longer than the finished length1 and bend them to shape by means of the ,spanish windlass as shown in ,fig4 #ah4 ,flexible six-strand fixing wire or stout hemp cord can be used2 or a straining screw and link1 as employed for tightening fencing wire1 will answer equally well2 keep the tension on till the wood is curved permanently1 the time varying with the nature and condition of the wood1 and the strain being applied gradually at intervals4 ,the rails are tenoned to fit mortises in the legs1 and battens are nailed to the lower long rails1 to support the flower pots 7see ,fig4 #ai74 ,the rustic work is then fixed diagonally to the rails4 ,the ends that abut against the legs and centre-piece are pared away so as to make a neat joint1 and angle boards are fitted to the under side of the lower rails to support the rustic work where it curves downwards4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ag4--;,flower-pot ,stand4 ,the vase shown by ,fig4 #bj is hexagonal in shape1 with vandyked sides fixed to a base supported upon tripod legs1 and stands about #c ft4 #c in4 high4 ,elm boards are suitable for the sides and bottom2 they are #a ft4 #c in4 high by #i in4 wide at the top end1 and #f-a_/b in4 wide at the bottom by #a in4 thick4 ,shoot the edges of the boards to a bevel of #fj1 and fix them with nails driven as shown at ,fig4 #ba4 ,when the six sides are completed1 prepare the hexagon baseboard to suit4 ,bore holes in it for drainage1 and also bore three equidistant holes1 #a-a_/d in4 in diameter1 at an angle of about #fj1 for the tenons of the legs to enter 7see ,fig4 #bb74 ,next screw the base to the sides1 and fix on the barked rustic work4 ,the twigs for this should be seasoned at least one year before using4 ,they are sawn in halves1 straight twigs being selected for the purpose4 ,if necessary1 shoot the edges slightly1 so as to obtain a closer fit when fixing them in parallel4 ,begin by attaching the lower border to the hexagonal base1 then the upright pieces over the angles1 hollowed as shown at ,fig4 #bc2 next fix the top sloping pieces1 and finally the horizontal twigs4 ,the legs are nailed at the base of the vase 7see ,fig4 #bb72 and at the centre1 where they cross1 they are further secured with twigs1 which do the duty of rungs1 as shown in ,fig4 #bj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah4--,method of ,bending ,saplings4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai4--;,fixing ,rails1 etc41 to ,posts4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4--,vase on ,tripod ,stand4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4--;,joint of ,hexagon ,sides of ,vase4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4--,securing ,sides and ,legs of ,vase to ,base4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bc4--,section of ,twigs at ,angles of ,vase4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #bd and #be4--,side and ,end ,elevations of ,flower-pot ,stand4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bf4--;,joining ,rails of ,flower-pot ,stand to ,uprights4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bg4--,method of ,supporting ,end ,shelves of ,flower-pot ,stand at ,a and ,b 7,fig4 #bd74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4--;,fixing ,centre ,shelves of ,flower-pot ,stand4 ,the flower stand shown in front and end view by ,figs4 #bd and #be has accommodation for sixteen pots4 ,the two uprights are #b ft4 #h in4 high by about #b-a_/b in4 in diameter4 ,the three rails are #b ft4 #i in4 long1 and are tenoned to the posts as shown by ,fig4 #bf2 the posts are also tenoned and nailed to the sills 7bottom rails71 and strutted1 as shown in ,fig4 #be4 ,the method of fixing the shelves ,a and ,b 7,fig4 #bd7 is shown in ,fig4 #bg1 which is an under-side view2 struts are also fitted1 as shown in ,fig4 #be4 ,the method of fixing the centre shelves is indicated at ,fig4 #bh4 ,the shelf1 and also the struts ,c1 ,d1 ,e1 and ,e#a 7,figs4 #bd and #be71 are fixed to the centre rail2 then the top diagonal braces are nailed to both the shelf and the top rail1 thus keeping the whole secure4 ,the remainder of the work calls for no special instructions4 ,split twigs are used for the fencing around the shelves4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bi4--,large ,square ,vase4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cj4--,large ,hexagonal ,vase4 ,fig4 #bi shows a square vase constructed from elm boards #a-a_/d in4 thick4 ,a fair size for the sides will be #a ft4 #h in4 at the top and #a ft4 #e in4 at the base by #b ft4 high1 including the #b-a_/b-;in4 plinth4 ,the split twigs forming the decoration are #a-a_/b in4 wide1 and spaced about #b in4 apart edge to edge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ca4--,large ,plant ,vase with ,claw ,foot4 ,the vase shown by ,fig4 #cj is hexagonal in shape1 the sides being #a ft4 #h in4 high by #a ft4 #b in4 wide at the top edge1 and #a ft4 #j-a_/b in4 at the base4 ,the sides and bottom of both vases are connected as in ,figs4 #ba and #bb4 ,five #a-;in4 holes are bored for drainage4 ,the short feet having been secured with screws driven from the inside1 the split rustic work is bradded on in the same order as that described for ,fig4 #bj4 ,the stands and vases should be given two coats of oil varnish1 allowing the first coat to dry before applying the second4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cb4--;,foot of ,rustic ,table4 ,a big plant vase made from half a paraffin cask is illustrated by ,fig4 #ca4 ,an ordinary #dj-;gal4 cask stands1 roughly1 some #c ft4 high1 has a diameter of some #b ft41 and is made of good stout oak4 ,sawn through the middle1 the paraffin barrel makes two admirable tubs4 ,one such half is shown in ,fig4 #ca4 ,this it is proposed to render suitable for some large bushy plant1 so it will have to be mounted on legs4 ,the legs shown are simply so many pieces cut from rough branches4 ,from a heap of stuff one can generally choose pieces sufficiently adapted to the purpose1 though their exact contours will1 of course1 vary4 ,oak branches1 technically known as bangles1 from which the bark has been taken to make tan1 will do well2 or if the bark is liked1 apple-tree or elm boughs will be suitable4 ,that these sticks should be rough and gnarled and knotted adds to their effect4 ,as the tub will be only partly covered with rustic mosaic work1 it will be well before nailing anything upon it to paint it4 ,a good dark brown or chocolate will go well with the natural bark4 ,the rustic pieces will have to be cut through with the saw1 the lengths being too great to be safely split with the hatchet--that is1 with the exception of those round the lip1 which are of thicker rod than the zig-zags2 say1 #a-a_/b in4 as compared with #a in4 ,in the zig-zags the light central strip is supposed to be of peeled withy1 the darker ones on each side having the bark on1 and being probably of hazel4 ,generally speaking1 wrought brads are to be recommended for fixing rustic mosaic1 but where1 as in the present case1 the strips have to be bent over a curved surface1 small wire nails will be found more secure4 ,groups of fir cones1 as shown1 will prettily ornament the triangular spaces4 ,a style of foot suitable for a one-leg flower stand or table is illustrated in plan and part section by ,fig4 #cb4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cc4--;,garden ,plant ,tub4 ,fig4 #cc shows the other half of the cask arranged for1 say1 a dwarf shrub1 an orange-tree1 or the like4 ,in small town or suburban premises1 such tubs are specially useful where there is a back court into which anything green cannot otherwise be introduced4 ,in this1 it will be seen that by way of variety the tops of the staves have been sawn to a zig-zag line1 which is followed a little below by a moulding of split rods4 ,alternative styles of moulding are shown by ,figs4 #cd and #ce4 ,half-way between this and the bottom a band of mosaic is arranged in light and dark strips of withy and hazel4 ,the bits filling the diamond-shaped centres of this pattern are cut from thicker stuff than the rest1 so that they may project as bosses beyond the general level4 ,over the unavoidable iron hoop at bottom1 from which place short strips would1 if nailed1 be often detached1 a rough dry-cask wooden hoop has been fixed4 ,at the sides two pieces of rough branch stuff have been placed to serve as handles1 and to resist strain these should be secured from within by strong screws4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #cd and #ce4--;,alternative ,mouldings4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cf4--,ornamental ,plant ,vase4 ,the vase shown by ,fig4 #cf is intended for a somewhat low-growing flowering plant--say1 a large bushy geranium4 ,in its original character it is an ,american lard pail4 ,as in the last tub1 the staves have been sawn to a more ornamental outline1 and they have also been perforated4 ,the ornamental strips of split rod have been arranged in straight vertical lines1 to avoid the difficulty of bending and keeping them in place if bent round so small a vessel4 ,the bottom of the pail is screwed down to an octagonal slab of wood1 to the under side of which four short bits of rough bough are nailed as feet4 ,as neither this nor the last tub is wholly covered with mosaic1 they should1 of course1 first be painted4 ,the slab at bottom will look very well rough1 as shown1 but if painted it will be improved by strips of split rod nailed round its edges4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cg4--,rectangular ,garden ,plant ,stand4 ,a garden plant stand1 made from a soap box and mounted on legs is shown by ,fig4 #cg4 ,the easiest way to fix one of these legs on is to saw the piece of stuff in half to a distance from the top equal to the depth of the box1 and then to cross-cut and remove one half4 ,the corner of the box will be brought to the middle of the cross-cut1 and the leg nailed on to the side of the box4 ,the piece which has been sawn off will then be cut through 7quartered71 and the proper quarter replaced and nailed to the end of the box4 ,frets1 such as those shown in these two examples1 are patterns of a kind well adapted to be worked out in rustic mosaic4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #ch to #dj4--;,elevation1 ,section1 and ,horizontal ,section of ,rustic ,pedestal4 ,a pedestal for a sundial or flower vase is shown by ,figs4 #ch to #dj4 ,it is a box of #a-;in4 elm boards1 the top being a #b-;in4 thick slab4 ,suitable dimensions are #c ft4 #f in4 high1 and #a ft4 square1 the top being #af in4 square4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #da4--,rustic ,flower-pot ,stand in ,imitation of ,bamboo4 ,a design for a rustic flower-pot stand in imitation of bamboo is represented by ,fig4 #da4 ,the height should be about #b ft4 #f in4 to the top1 and the length from #c ft4 to #c ft4 #f in4 ,the box at the top may be about #i in4 wide and #h in4 deep4 ,care must be taken when putting the work together to get the frames true and square4 ,slovenliness in construction will completely spoil the appearance of the finished article4 ,the box at the top is made to fit inside1 and should be lined with a zinc tray4 ,the outside may be covered with glue and brown sawdust4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,tables4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #db4--,square ,table4 ,a small rustic table which may1 if desired1 be used as a flower-pot stand1 is illustrated by ,fig4 #db4 ,the top may be made of #c_/d-;in4 stuff1 and should have two ledges nailed underneath to prevent twisting4 ,the table may be #a ft4 #aj in4 high1 with the top #ae in4 square1 or1 if a larger size is required1 #b ft4 #a in4 high1 with the top #ah in4 square4 ,the design is not suitable for tables of a larger size4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dc4--;,hexagonal ,table4 ,the legs may be secured to the top by boring holes in the ledges and driving them in4 ,the cross bars must be firmly secured to the legs1 and1 for the joints1 the mortise and tenon shown at ,fig4 #f 7see p4 #ad7 would be suitable4 ,if the sticks used to form the legs are rather small1 it will be better if the cross bars are kept a little higher on two of the sides1 so that the mortises do not meet each other4 ,the top is covered with a ,swiss overlay pattern1 made of split sticks4 ,the design may be set out by drawing lines from corner to corner on the top1 and across the top in the centre of each side4 ,a smaller square is then drawn in the centre of the top1 with diagonals at right angles to the sides of the top4 ,lines drawn from the corners of the small square to the corners of the top will form a four-pointed star4 ,the pattern should be clearly outlined with a pencil4 ,in nailing on the sticks1 those round the outer edge of the top should be put on first and mitred at the corners4 ,next the outside sticks of the small square should be nailed on1 then the eight pieces from the corners of the small square to the corners of the top4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dd4--,part ,vertical ,section of ,top of ,hexagonal ,table4 ,in working up patterns of the above description1 always nail on the sticks that follow the outline of the design first4 ,the filling-in pieces may be put on afterwards4 ,variety may be given to the patterns by using sticks of different colours2 for instance1 the design may be outlined in hazel or blackthorn1 and filled in with hawthorn or peeled willow4 ,the edges of the table top are concealed by nailing on an edging of short sticks or cones4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #de4--;,half ,plans of ,top of ,hexagonal ,table4 ,fig4 #dc shows a small hexagon-top table for use in a summer-house or on the lawn4 ,the following dimensions are suitable3 ,height #b ft4 #f in41 and diameter of circle for the hexagon top #b ft4 #i in4 ,the top is made from two or three #g_/h-;in4 boards cramped together to the required width and fixed underneath with two battens #c-a_/b in4 wide by #a in4 thick4 ,the four legs are dowelled and nailed to these battens and further stiffened by the rungs and the diagonal braces which are nailed to the legs4 ,a corona is fixed around the edges of the table top1 and the method of securing the board is shown in ,fig4 #dd4 ,in ,fig4 #de the half plans show two ways of ornamenting the top4 ,the twigs should be sawn so that in section they are less than a semicircle1 and it will be an advantage to shoot their edges slightly1 as then they will fit closer and cover the rough boards that form the table top4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,chairs ,,and ,,seats4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #df4--;,armchair4 ,for the armchair 7,fig4 #df7 select four slightly curved legs about #c in4 in diameter2 the front pair are #b ft4 high and the back pair are #b ft4 #i in4 high4 ,the front seat rail is #a ft4 #b in4 long by #b-a_/b in4 in diameter1 the back rail is #a ft4 long1 and the side rails are #a ft4 #c in4 long1 their ends being trimmed to fit the legs1 and fixed with inserted ash or elm dowels #g_/h in4 in diameter2 see ,fig4 #dg4 ,the height from the ground line to the seat top is #a ft4 #d-a_/b in4 ,the battens forming the seat rest on the side rails1 and cleats are fixed to the inner sides of the four legs 7see ,fig4 #dh7 to support the extreme back and front battens4 ,the arms and back are made in three parts1 the scarfed joints coming immediately over the back legs4 ,the trellis work is then added1 and finally the struts and dentils are fixed around the seat4 ,the chair can be made from unbarked wood without any dressing1 or the bark may be removed and the wood1 when dry1 can be finished in stain and outside varnish4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dg4--;,fixing ,seat ,rails to ,leg of ,armchair4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dh4--,plan of ,armchair ,seat ,frame4 ,the garden-seats about to be described will look very effective if made of oak that has had the bark removed and the small twigs trimmed off clean2 they should be finished in stain and varnish4 ,in construction they are fairly simple4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #di4--;,general ,view of ,garden ,seat4 ,for making the seat shown by ,fig4 #di1 first select the three back posts1 with their natural curves as much alike as possible4 ,in diameter they should be from #b-a_/b in4 to #c in4 ,select also two arm-posts and one centre leg for the front4 ,next cut two seat rails for the back and one rail for the front1 #e ft4 or #f ft4 long as desired1 and cut two side rails 7see ,fig4 #ej7 and one centre rail1 each #a ft4 #g in4 long4 ,work the ends of the rails to the shape of the posts as shown by ,figs4 #ea and #eb1 so that they make a fairly good joint1 and bore the posts and rails with a #g_/h-;in4 bit #a-a_/d in4 deep1 to receive dowels made of ash or elm4 ,these are preferable to tenons formed on the rails themselves4 ,now try the whole together temporarily1 and make good any defects4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ej4--;,end ,elevation of ,garden ,seat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ea4--;,joints of ,rails and ,posts for ,garden ,seat4 ,then take the pieces apart1 and coat the joints with a thick priming consisting of two parts of white-lead 7ground in oil7 and one part of red-lead thinned with boiled linseed oil4 ,drive the joints home and fix them with nails or screws and wipe off the surplus paint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eb4--;,arm-rest for ,garden ,seat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ec4--,part ,plan of ,seat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ed4--;,another ,garden ,seat4 ,the top back rail and the arm-rest can next be fitted4 ,the ends of the back rail are worked bird's mouth1 to fit the posts4 ,the arm-rests are treated in the same way at the back2 they fit in vees cut in the front posts1 and are fixed with nails4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ef4--,vertical ,section1 showing ,front ,rail1 ,cross ,rail1 and ,battens4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ee4--;,cross ,section of ,garden ,seat4 ,measure off and mark equal spaces for the struts1 the ends of which are trimmed to fit the rails and posts4 ,secure them with two nails at each end4 ,the seat 7,fig4 #ec7 is made up of split saplings laid as shown1 with the ends pared to fit the rails and bradded on4 ,finally1 fit the struts between the seat rails and the lower part of the posts4 ,the framework for the chair shown by ,figs4 #ed and #ee is on the same principle as that already described4 ,the segmental battens forming the seat run longitudinally1 and their ends are shaped to fit the outer rails4 ,the battens rest on a flat worked on the centre cross rail 7see ,figs4 #ee1 #ef1 and #eg74 ,fig4 #ef also gives a part cross section near the centre leg1 and shows the front rail placed out of centre and the cross rail resting on the leg1 to which it is firmly nailed4 ,when the seat is more than #e ft4 in length the battens require intermediate supports1 which can be cut from split saplings4 ,the panelling on the back is fixed to the top and bottom rails and supported in the centre by a wide longitudinal rail and two vertical rails at the mitres of the diamond centres4 ,these are fitted in and secured1 and then the vertical split twigs are fixed partly on them and also on the rails4 ,finally1 struts are fixed to the seat rails and legs and covered with short twigs1 with their lower ends running in a regular curve4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eg4--,part ,plan of ,seat4 ,a rustic garden seat with canopy is illustrated by ,fig4 #eh4 ,where shade is required1 the back and canopy offer facilities for securing it1 as they can be covered with climbers4 ,fig4 #eh is not drawn to scale1 but the explanatory diagrams 7,figs4 #ei to #fd7 are #c_/d in4 to the foot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eh4--;,garden ,seat with ,canopy4 ,the upright posts and all the more important pieces will best be formed of somewhat small larch stuff2 the smaller straight sticks may be hazel1 birch1 or withy4 ,the last named1 stripped of its bark1 and used in some parts only1 will form a pretty contrast with the darker rods4 ,in filling spaces in back and canopy1 a few pieces of crooked stuff are used2 these will probably be of apple-tree4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ei4--;,front ,elevation of ,garden ,seat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fj4--;,end ,elevation of ,garden ,seat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fa4--,plan of ,canopy for ,garden ,seat4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #fb and #fc4--;,back and ,side ,views of ,canopy ,panels4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fd4--,plan of ,seat4 ,the two posts ,a1 on which almost the entire weight is sustained1 should be let into the ground not less than #b ft4 ,they rise #e ft4 above the ground-line4 ,they are set at a distance1 measuring from centre to centre1 of #d ft4 apart4 ,the smaller posts 7marked ,b71 which support the seat1 stand #ag in4 in advance of those last named1 and should be let into the earth #a ft4 ,the broad seat thus given is essential to comfort when the back of the chair is upright1 as it must be in this instance4 ,two principal cross-pieces are nailed against the main posts4 ,the lower one1 of halved stuff1 is #ae in4 from the ground1 and carries the back of the seat4 ,the other is close to the top of the posts1 and carries the back of the canopy4 ,the canopy is chiefly supported on the three wall-plates1 ,c 7,fig4 #ei71 which rest at one end on the heads of the posts1 and towards the other on the struts1 ,d 7,fig4 #fj74 ,fig4 #fa shows in plan the arrangement of the principal pieces forming the canopy3 ,e ,e are the rafters of the gables1 the lower ends of which rest on the wall-plates1 and the upper against the pinnacle1 ,f 7,fig4 #fa74 ,the back rafters are marked ,g ,g1 and these rest their lower ends on the cross-piece and their upper against the pinnacle4 ,fig4 #fb shows the filling-in of the two back panels of canopy2 ,fig4 #fc that of the four side panels4 ,the filling-in of the back of the seat is clearly shown in ,fig4 #ei4 ,in ,fig4 #fd the seat proper appears in plan4 ,its front and ends are of halved stuff1 nailed to the posts4 ,the spars forming the seat are placed with spaces between them1 that they may not hold moisture2 for the same reason1 it is advised that they should be of peeled withy4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,gates ,,and ,,fences4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #fe and #ff4--;,front ,view and ,plan of ,solid ,garden ,gate4 ,in many gardens there is a space devoted to the tool-house1 potting shed1 refuse head1 etc4 ,shrubberies of course hide the unsightly appearance of this particular spot to a certain extent1 but it may be found desirable to close the entrance to this part of the garden from the remainder1 and the gate illustrated in front elevation by ,fig4 #fe is1 from its semi-rustic nature1 particularly suitable4 ,fig4 #ff shows a plan and ,fig4 #fg is a part back view4 ,the gate is quite simple in construction1 and should be of sufficient height to obstruct the view from each side4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fg4--,part ,back ,view of ,frame for ,solid ,garden ,gate4 ,local circumstances will of course determine the width of the gate1 but the one illustrated by ,fig4 #fe is constructed on a framework #f ft4 square1 the total height being #h ft4 ,the timber for the frame need not be planed4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #fh to #gj4--;,joints in ,frame of ,solid ,garden ,gate4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #ga and #gb4--;,fixing ,ends of ,twigs4 ,illustration3 ,fig #gc4--;,detail of ,closing ,stile4 ,cut the closing and hingeing stiles #f ft4 long out of stuff #f in4 wide by #b-a_/b in4 thick4 ,the three rails are of the same dimensions1 and can be halved and dovetailed to the stiles or1 better1 mortised1 tenoned1 and wedged and braced1 as shown in ,figs4 #fh1 #fi1 and #gj4 ,separate pieces of stuff are fixed up the centre to form a muntin for supporting the rustic work2 the necessity is obvious from ,fig4 #ff1 where it will be noticed the twigs are outlined on the frame4 ,each twig has a bearing on the frame1 and can thus be nailed individually4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #gd and #ge4--;,designs for ,rustic ,gates4 ,two stout gate hinges and hooks are required1 and they can be bolted on with #g_/af-;in4 ,whitworth bolts and nuts1 or secured from the back with square-headed coach screws4 ,now commence fixing on the unbarked twigs2 they should be as straight as possible and used in their natural shape1 without being split in halves4 ,the terminations of the joints for circular stuff are slightly different from the ends of the half-round stuff2 see ,figs4 #ga and #gb4 ,start by fixing the outside square1 then the two inner squares1 and finally the diagonal filling4 ,the posts are #i in4 or #aj in4 in diameter by #i ft4 long1 #c ft4 being underground4 ,cut three mortises in the posts to receive the rails for the side fencing4 ,these rails are nailed flush to the secondary posts1 nails also being driven through each mortise in the gate posts4 ,next dig the holes for the posts1 these being kept at correct distances apart by nailing battens to the top and at the ground line while ramming in the posts4 ,two parts of old brickwork and one part of ,portland cement will make a good concrete for the posts4 ,a week or more should elapse before the gate is hung to the posts4 ,this may then be propped up fair between the two posts1 and the positions should be marked for the staple of the latch1 and hooks for the hinges4 ,a rebate is formed for the gate on the posts by nailing on split sapling2 see ,figs4 #fg and #gc4 ,finally1 a short post can be driven in the ground and fitted with a hook for retaining the gate when open wide4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #gf and #gg4--;,designs for ,rustic ,gates4 ,suitable designs for small rustic gates are given by ,figs4 #gd to #gg4 ,the wood for making gates to the two designs 7,figs4 #gf and #gg7 should have the bark removed4 ,the chief rails and posts are about #b in4 thick1 filled in with #a-a_/b-;in4 or #a-;in4 pieces1 halved and nailed together where they cross4 ,the joints may be hidden by bosses of planed wood 7see ,fig4 #gg74 ,if the gate is to be removable1 fix a hook on the hanging stile to engage with a staple in the joint1 and a pin in the bottom to turn round in a socket4 ,the gate is then easily taken out of its hangings4 ,varnish the wood on completion4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #gh and #gi4--;,designs for ,fences4 ,rustic fences can be constructed as shown in ,figs4 #gh to #hj4 ,the garden trellis illustrated at ,fig4 #ha will form an attractive addition to the grounds of a suburban or country villa residence4 ,in the case of new houses1 the existence of such a trellis1 with creepers ready planted1 will often prove a deciding factor in effecting a quick sale or letting4 ,the structure extends to a length of about #bj ft41 but the dimensions may readily be altered to suit requirements4 ,the material may be fir or other straight unbarked saplings and twigs4 ,the posts are #ab ft4 long2 the four for the arch being #d in4 in diameter1 and the others #c in4 or #c-a_/b in4 ,the rails are #b-a_/b in4 in diameter1 and the twigs for the trellis1 etc41 #a-c_/d in4 or #b in4 ,the bay seat with canopy is #f ft4 long by #a ft4 #d in4 wide4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hj4--;,design for ,fence4 ,the position of the seats and posts and of the shores ,a1 ,b1 and ,c is clearly shown in the plan 7,fig4 #hb74 ,the arrangement of the double posts adds materially to the stiffness of the framework1 making long shores unnecessary4 ,the shores are placed #c ft4 #f in4 above the ground line1 and are inclined at an angle of #ej4 ,the posts are sunk into the ground a distance of #c ft41 and well rammed in2 rubble stones being mixed with the earth1 as shown in the vertical section 7,fig4 #hc74 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #ha and #hb4--;,general ,view and ,ground ,plan of ,rustic ,trellis with ,seats and ,gate4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hc4--,vertical ,section of ,trellis4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hd4--,section through ,end ,post and ,trellis4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #he4--;,detail of ,back of ,seat for ,trellis4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hf4--;,alternative ,design for ,gate4 ,the arch may with advantage be entirely fitted together before being put in position1 as a better job can thus be made of the joints of the short rails and struts4 ,the joints in the remainder of the work1 with the exception of the gate1 are of the simplest description4 ,the rail ends are bevelled and notched to the posts1 and secured with nails as shown in the sectional view of the trellis at ,fig4 #hd4 ,having erected the framework in position1 next sink and well ram the shores deep into the ground1 and splay and nail the top ends to the uprights4 ,also fix the shorter posts for the seats1 letting them into the ground about #a ft4 #f in4 ,the end seat bearers are fixed to the end posts1 and the centre bearers to the front and back central posts4 ,the seat battens are saplings split in two1 the flat portion being laid downwards and nailed to the bearers 7see ,fig4 #hc74 ,fig4 #he is an enlarged section through the seat back1 showing the method of securing the smaller twigs to the rails4 ,the fixing of the vertical pieces in the lower part1 and the inclined lengths above1 will complete this portion of the screen4 ,the gate1 shown enlarged at ,fig4 #hf1 which gives an alternative design1 is #c ft4 #i in4 wide by #d ft4 #f in4 high4 ,the stiles are #d ft4 #i in4 long and about #b-a_/b in4 in diameter1 and should be as straight as possible1 with the twigs neatly trimmed on2 the rails should be at least #b-a_/d in4 in diameter1 trimmed to fit the stiles1 and secured with inserted hardwood dowels #a in4 in diameter1 as shown at ,fig4 #bf1 p4 #bg4 ,the diagonal struts in the top panel should be fitted and in place before the rails and stiles are finally secured2 the vertical twigs in the lower panel should be similarly fitted and nailed before the rails are secured to the stiles4 ,ordinary forged hooks and eyes are used for hanging the gate2 these are secured to the stile and post with nuts and washers1 as shown in the enlarged horizontal section 7,fig4 #hg74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hg4--,method of ,hanging and ,latching ,gate4 ,a mortice is cut in the closing stile to receive the latch1 the catch for the latter being a simple forging 7see ,fig4 #hh7 with a pointed tang for driving into the post4 ,a rustic carriage entrance is shown by ,fig4 #hi4 ,the intention is1 of course1 that the rustic archway above the gates shall be more or less clothed with climbing plants4 ,it is for roses that the structure will be best adapted1 though clematis or honeysuckle will look well upon it4 ,ivy would look too heavy1 and1 if neglected1 might even prove too heavy in other respects4 ,light as the arch may appear1 the four posts grouped to form the turret on either side are so tied and braced together as to be1 to all intents and purposes1 a solid pillar1 #cj in4 square1 and fully equal to resisting any outward thrust of the rafters4 ,in the elevation 7,fig4 #hi71 to avoid confusion1 no indication is given of the work forming the farther side of the arch1 though something of it would necessarily be seen from the front2 the two sides will be alike4 ,figs4 #hi and #ij are drawn to a scale of #a_/b in4 to the foot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hh4--;,catch for ,gate4 ,the posts1 and at least all the more important straight pieces1 should be of larch4 ,the wood chosen for filling-in should have picturesque forks and contortions4 ,small oak bangles will1 perhaps1 be most appropriate4 ,in the ground plan of the left-hand turret 7,fig4 #ij7 it will be seen that the posts used--four at each end--are some #e in4 or #f in4 in diameter1 and that the largest is selected as hanging-post for the gate4 ,from centre to centre they are set #b ft4 #c in4 apart4 ,they are #ac ft4 long--that is1 #aj ft4 #d in4 above ground and #b ft4 #h in4 below4 ,the rafters of the arch spring from them #g ft4 from the ground1 and at this point each post is surrounded by a cap1 formed of four pieces of quartered stuff nailed upon it4 ,the rafters are not mortised into the post1 but if1 instead of being merely nailed1 they are attached by a bolt and nut1 a stronger joint will be made4 ,illustration3 ,fig #hi4--;,elevation of ,rustic ,carriage ,entrance4 ,the upper rafters1 back and front1 are connected by five straight cross-pieces1 whose ends show in ,fig4 #hi4 ,the spaces between these are filled up very much at random with crooked stuff4 ,the four posts of each turret are bound together close beneath their tops by cross-pieces nailed outside them1 whilst from their tops1 and nailed down to them1 slant four short rafters1 which meet pyramid-wise in the centre4 ,the filling up of the upper parts of the turrets1 as well as of the front and back of the arch1 is with a mixture of straight and crooked stuff1 the arrangement of which is clearly shown in the elevation 7,fig4 #hi74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ij4--,plan of ,left ,side of ,carriage ,entrance4 ,the lower parts of the turrets and the gates must be constructed in such a way as to exclude animals2 the palings are so arranged as not to leave a space between them wider than #c in4 ,the rails of the gates should1 of course1 be mortised into the heads and hinge-trees4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,rosery ,,walk4 ,the rustic construction here illustrated is intended primarily as a trellis over which to train roses1 and to form a shady and fragrant walk1 and generally to contribute to the adornment of the flower garden4 ,it can readily be adapted so as to form a roofed-in track from a door to the public roadway2 and the means of so adapting it will be explained later4 ,the materials will be entirely rough wood in its natural bark4 ,for the posts fir poles of some kind should be chosen1 and larch is especially to be preferred both as regards durability and appearance4 ,all the smaller pieces which show as straight stuff may well be of the same kind of wood as the posts1 though hazel is best for the finer rods4 ,it will be seen that in the mere filling-in much crooked stuff is used1 and for this apple branches1 or indeed almost anything that comes to hand1 will answer4 ,the rosery walk 7,fig4 #ia7 is #d ft4 wide1 and the rustic erection is carried on two rows of pillars or collar-posts ranged at intervals of #c ft4 ,these posts should be let into the ground #b ft41 and well rammed in4 ,they should have an average diameter of #c in4 or #c-a_/b in41 except in the case of each third one1 as that which in ,fig4 #ia is seen standing in the middle of the portion with the lower roof2 such pillars may be smaller as having little weight to bear1 and will look better than they would do if equal in size to the others4 ,resting on the line of posts lies the wall-plate 7,a ,a1 ,fig4 #ib71 the top of which is #e ft4 #f in4 from the ground line4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ia4--;,elevation of ,rosery ,walk4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ib4--,plan of ,roof of ,rosery ,walk4 ,from each group of four large collar-posts rise four rafters 7,b1 ,b1 ,fig4 #ib71 meeting at top pyramid-wise4 ,they rise to a height from the ground of #g ft4 #f in41 and have1 therefore1 to be #c ft4 #d in4 long4 ,half-way up them--that is1 #f ft4 #f in4 from the ground line--the purlins 7,c1 ,c1 ,fig4 #ib7 are nailed upon them4 ,figs4 #ia and #ib alike show how the space between wall-plate and purlin is filled in1 and ,fig4 #ib shows how the space1 #g ft4 #c in4 long1 stretching from one pyramidal portion to the next1 is covered with a flat roof of open rustic work lying upon the purlins4 ,this space1 it will be observed1 is chiefly filled in with crooked stuff4 ,fig4 #ic shows how the upper part of the rosery would appear at one of its ends1 and explains how the roof would be in section--the shaded parts give the form of the roof in its lower portions2 whilst if the cross-piece1 ,d 7which is on a level with the purlins71 is supposed to be removed1 there is presented with the dotted lines1 ,b1 ,b1 a section through the middle of one of the higher pyramidal portions4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ic4--;,entrance to ,rosery ,walk4 ,over the middle of the entrance is a rough knot or a piece of root4 ,the filling-in of the sides of the rosery is plainly shown in the elevation1 ,fig4 #ia4 ,for its better preservation from damp1 this work is kept #d in4 from the ground4 ,supposing that1 as was suggested above1 the design is to be utilised for a dry path with a covering of metal or other light material1 it will be well to keep the whole roof to the level of the pyramidal portions--a ridge-piece will have to be used--and the rafters1 instead of following the present arrangement1 will meet in pairs opposite to the pillars4 ,instead of round stuff1 also1 use halved stuff for the rafters and purlins1 the sawn side being uppermost4 ,the space between ridge-piece and purlin can then be filled in the same manner as that between purlin and wall-plate4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,porches4 ,the rustic porch shown in front elevation by ,fig4 #id and in vertical section by ,fig4 #ie is constructed from straight1 well-seasoned saplings and twigs1 from which1 in each case1 the bark has been removed4 ,the design is eminently suitable for a farmhouse or a country cottage4 ,the porch is of large dimensions1 and is provided with seating accommodation on each side4 ,the seats do not appear in the elevations1 but one side is shown in the part plan 7,fig4 #if74 ,the seats are #a ft4 #f in4 high by #a ft4 #b in4 wide4 ,the battens are #a-c_/d in4 wide by #a-a_/b in4 thick1 and are supported on cross-pieces fixed to the front posts and wall2 a centre batten being fixed to the centre panel1 and supported by a diagonal bracket running from the front down to the sill-piece4 ,the floor space is #g ft4 wide1 and stands out #e ft4 from the walls4 ,the posts are #g ft4 #f in4 long by #d in4 in diameter4 ,the front posts are preferably dropped over metal dowels leaded into the stone floor1 at #a ft4 #b in4 centres1 while the side posts are at #aj-a_/b in4 centres1 and of smaller section--say about #c in4 in diameter4 ,one post1 #e in4 in diameter1 sawn longitudinally through the centre1 does duty for the two wall-posts1 the flat portion being1 of course1 scribed to the wall1 the latter having been previously plugged for the reception of the fixing nails4 ,the rails are tenoned to the posts1 and #a-a_/d in4 diameter holes are bored in the posts1 and also in the ends of the rails1 for the reception of the inserted tenons4 ,the ends of the rails are also hollowed to fit roughly the posts 7see ,fig4 #ig74 ,the lower rail is #aj in4 up from the floor1 while the centre rail is #c ft4 #d in4 up4 ,the rail immediately below 7,fig4 #ie7 is #aj in4 below the centre rail4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #id4--;,front ,elevation of ,cottage ,porch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ie4--,vertical ,section of ,cottage ,porch4 ,the top ends of the front posts are hollowed1 and fitted with inserted dowels for the reception of the front rail4 ,the six side-posts are finished off square1 and have tenons which fit into the plates4 ,the front ends of the plates are notched to the front top rail4 ,the rafters are #e ft4 #g in4 long by #c in4 deep and #b in4 wide1 wrought and chamfered and birdsmouthed to the plates as shown at ,fig4 #ih4 ,the ridge piece1 #d in4 deep by #a-a_/b in4 thick1 projects #e ft4 #b in4 from the wall4 ,on the front end of the ridge is fixed the finial1 which is #b in4 square4 ,the rafters are covered with #a-;in4 ,v-jointed1 wrought1 grooved and tongued boarding1 cut in #e-;ft4 #d-;in4 lengths1 and laid horizontally or at right angles to the rafters4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #if4--,part ,plan of ,seat and ,floor of ,cottage ,porch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ig4--,section of ,cottage ,porch at ,gable4 ,the roof may be covered with slates1 with ,broseley tiles1 with wood shingles1 or with thatch4 ,a part plan of the roof is shown in ,fig4 #ii4 ,an enlarged section of the front angle of the gable is given in ,fig4 #ajj4 ,two boards1 each #a ft4 #a in4 wide by #a-a_/d in4 thick1 are fixed to the outer rafters and run parallel with them2 the heels of the two boards abutting on the front top rail1 to which they are nailed4 ,the split-twig herringbone ornament is also nailed to these boards4 ,on the inner edges of the boards are secured twigs of about #a-c_/d-;in4 in diameter1 which are rebated to fit to the edges as shown in ,fig4 #ajj4 ,the front projecting ends of the roofing boards are concealed by split twigs of about #b-a_/b-;in4 or #c-;in4 diameter1 which do duty as bargeboards4 ,the method is shown at ,a 7,fig4 #ajj74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ih4--;,enlarged ,detail of ,cottage ,porch at ,eaves4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ii4--,part ,plan of ,roof for ,cottage ,porch4 ,the panels have now to be filled with stuff ranging from #a-a_/b in4 to #b-a_/d in4 in diameter4 ,the vertically placed twigs between the posts and rails should be fitted in place before the rails are finally jointed up to the posts4 ,the ends are roughly hollowed1 and are secured with cut nails4 ,alternatively1 the vertical members could be fitted so that their inner edges coincided with the centre of the rails4 ,the major portion of the twigs being on the outer side1 the smaller diameter of the twigs will thus bring their front edges flush with the larger diameter edges of the rails4 ,the herringbone and the diagonally placed twigs are quite easy to fit1 the ends being simply pared off till they are sufficiently shortened to assume their correct position in the panels4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajj4--,section of ,gable for ,cottage ,porch4 ,the decorative effect of the porch will be greatly improved by the addition of a suitable door1 as shown in the front elevation 7,fig4 #id74 ,the cost of manufacture of such a door is but slightly more than that of an ordinary six-panel door4 ,the bottle ends in the top glazed panel form a quaint and pleasing feature of the general scheme4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,canopy ,,for ,a ,,swing4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aja4--;,general ,view of ,rustic ,canopy for ,swing4 ,fig4 #aja is a general view of the canopy and swing1 and ,fig4 #ajb a side elevation slightly more elaborate in design than ,fig4 #aja1 the chief members1 however1 being exactly the same4 ,the material used is stripped fir saplings4 ,six of these are required for the uprights4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajb4--,side ,elevation of ,canopy for ,swing 7,alternative ,design74 ,the middle posts are slightly larger in section1 as they have to carry the cross rail supporting the swing2 a good size for these is #f-;in4 diameter at the base by #aj ft4 or #ab ft4 high4 ,the outer posts may be #d-c_/d-;in4 to #e-;in4 diameter at the base4 ,the posts are sub-tenoned 7see ,fig4 #ajc7 to elm sills #aj ft4 #f in4 long by #h in4 diameter4 ,tenons are formed on both ends of the posts1 and seatings and mortices at #d-;ft4 centres are made in both the sills 7bottom rails7 and plates 7top rails7 to receive them4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajc4--;,fixing ,middle ,post of ,canopy to ,sill4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajd4--;,details of ,joints of ,rails1 ,struts1 and ,posts for ,canopy4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aje4--,securing ,cross ,rails to ,plates and ,posts of ,canopy4 ,the short rails are #d in4 in diameter by #c ft4 #f in4 long1 and are stub-tenoned and pinned to the posts at a height of #c ft4 #i in4 from the ground line4 ,the struts also are tenoned and pinned to the middle posts and sills1 as shown in ,fig4 #ajd1 where1 it will be noticed1 the struts are in one piece and the braces in two1 the latter being hollowed to fit in the angles and over the struts4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #ajf and #ajg4--;,hook and ,thimble for ,canopy4 ,when all the members are ready for the final drive home1 the tenons of the rails should be just entered to the posts2 the struts and braces are next placed in position and driven up1 then the sill and plate are entered and driven home1 and finally the several joints are secured with oak pins4 ,this operation will be carried out better with the work in a horizontal position4 ,when the two sides are so far completed1 they may be erected in position and fixed with temporary battens1 at a distance apart of #g ft4 #i in4 centres1 while the top cross rails are being fitted4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajh4--;,front ,view of ,fenced ,seat for ,canopy4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aji4--;,end ,view of ,fenced ,seat for ,canopy4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaj4--;,fixing ,rope to ,eyelet4 ,the middle cross rail which carries the swing is #f in4 in diameter and #h ft4 #f in4 long4 ,a seating is formed on the plates1 and a shallow one upon the rails1 which are secured with long #c_/d-;in4 diameter bolts and nuts2 the latter are let into the posts at a distance of #h in4 from the top1 as shown in ,fig4 #aje1 which is a cross section through the plate near the middle rail4 ,short struts may also be fixed between the posts and cross rail1 as in ,fig4 #aje2 they are not shown in ,fig4 #aja4 ,a floor is formed of saplings1 connected to the sills1 thus preventing them from spreading4 ,the trellis-work1 both on the roof and sides1 is now fixed4 ,this is composed of #a-c_/d-;in4 and #b-;in4 twigs4 ,the swing hooks 7,fig4 #ajf7 pass right through the rails1 and are secured with nuts and washers4 ,collars should be forged on the shanks to prevent the hooks being drawn too far into the wood when screwing up the nuts4 ,the shank is screwed #c_/d-;in4 ,whitworth pitch thread1 and the hook is #a-a_/d in4 in diameter at the thickest part4 ,the hemp rope is spliced around galvanised iron thimbles 7see ,fig4 #ajg71 which take the wear on the hooks4 ,the rope is usually secured to the seat by simply knotting the ends4 ,should the swing be used for very young children1 a seat provided with a fence will be necessary1 as shown at ,figs4 #ajh and #aji1 which are front and end views respectively4 ,the back rail and the two side rails are fixed to the seat with the balusters2 but the front rail is tenoned to open-ended mortices in the side rails1 and thus made to hinge1 to facilitate the lifting of the children on and off the seat1 the rail being secured in its closed position with a brass pin and retaining chain4 ,the suspending rope in this case is passed through the end rails and knotted to the seat4 ,fig4 #aaj shows the rope passed around and whipped to an eyelet4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,aviary4 ,the outside dimensions of the rustic aviary shown by ,figs4 #aaa and #aab are--length1 #c ft4 #b in42 width1 #a ft4 #f in42 height1 #a ft4 #aj in4 ,hazel sticks1 with the bark on1 should be used1 the straightest obtainable being best for the frame2 if at all crooked or bent1 the sticks can be straightened by steaming1 or1 if not too dry1 by the heat of a spirit lamp4 ,four uprights1 #a ft4 #e-a_/b in4 by #e_/h in41 are first cut2 then six rails1 #a_/b in4 thick1 are made1 with the ends shaped as shown in ,fig4 #aac1 to fit the uprights1 measuring #b ft4 #aj in4 inside the hollow ends when finished4 ,four of these should be laid on the bench side by side1 and marked with a pair of compasses for the wires1 which are #e_/h in4 apart4 ,they are then drilled1 the holes being bored right through the two sticks for the top rails1 but only half through the bottom rails4 ,if the stuff is not too hard1 the holes may be pierced with a well-sharpened brad awl4 ,the uprights are now secured to the rails with #b-;in4 wire nails1 driven so as to avoid the holes 7see ,fig4 #aad71 and glue is applied at the joints4 ,the bottom rail is flush with the lower ends1 the next one being placed #a-a_/b in4 above it2 the third is #a_/d in4 from the top ends4 ,these form the front and back frames1 and should be quite square and out of winding4 ,the rails for the ends1 also six in number1 measure #a ft4 #c in41 and are bored and fixed to the uprights to correspond with the others in exactly the same way4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaa4--;,front ,elevation of ,aviary4 ,the two rails supporting the tree perches are placed about #g in4 from the ends4 ,before they are fixed1 however1 the tree perches must be arranged4 ,these should be cut from the limb of a leafless tree1 in winter1 in order to retain the bark4 ,suitable pieces may be prepared by cutting off badly placed twigs and fixing them where required4 ,they are then put on the perch rails1 employing the same joint as the rails and upright1 but securing with a strong screw4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aab4--;,end ,elevation of ,aviary4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #aac and #aad4--;,details of ,joint of ,rails and ,uprights for ,aviary4 ,when all is ready1 the perches are fixed in the framework 7see ,figs4 #aae and #aaf71 and narrow strips of #a_/d-;in4 board are fitted between the lower rails of the back and ends1 to be faced with split stuff1 put on diagonally as shown in ,figs4 #aaa and #aab4 ,the best plan would be to take a sufficient quantity of material to the nearest sawmill to be divided by a circular or band saw2 the material must be free from grit1 or objections will be raised against cutting it4 ,a stain1 made by thinning down brunswick black with turps1 should be at hand to stain the wood before fixing on the split stuff1 which is secured with fine panel pins4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aae4--,part ,sectional ,plan of ,aviary4 ,the wood bottom is #c ft4 #a-a_/b in4 by #a ft4 #e-a_/b in4 by #c_/h in42 it is planed both sides1 and secured in place with screws4 ,the top side is treated round the margin1 as shown in ,fig4 #aae1 and the under side as shown in ,fig4 #aag4 ,the centre of the design of the under side1 covering a space of #b ft4 #c in4 by #h in41 is worked first2 it is worked from the centre outwards1 each strip being mitred as shown4 ,the marginal strips are pieces of split cut slanting at the ends where they fit other pieces1 and flush with the edge of the wood bottom1 which is surrounded with the same stuff4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaf4--;,cross ,section of ,aviary4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aag4--;,half ,under ,view of ,bottom of ,aviary4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aah4--;,construction of ,door ,wires for ,aviary4 ,the wiring is all straightforward work4 ,the wires are passed through the top rails to those below and clipped off level at the top4 ,six feeding-holes are required1 one in the centre at each end1 and two at the back and front close to the perches4 ,the top ends of these wires are pushed up through the rails2 the circular ends are slightly sunk and fixed with small staples4 ,six wires are omitted from the middle of the front to allow for the door4 ,the cross-wires1 which should be of a stronger gauge1 are then put in4 ,in the back and ends it is immaterial whether they are put inside or out1 but at the front they must be inside4 ,the six wires above the door are inserted in twos1 being returned in the same manner as the lower ends of the door wires 7see ,fig4 #aah71 and soldered to the cross-wire1 which is afterwards bound to the others with thin pliable coil wire4 ,in making the sliding door1 the returned ends of the wires are soldered to the base wire inside1 so that the ends may fit round the wires of the doorway2 the top ends fit round those above the cross-wire1 and when the door is in place a scroll-piece is soldered on outside 7see ,fig4 #aaa74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aai4--,part ,longitudinal ,section of ,aviary4 ,eight corner-pieces of the split stuff are put on close against the wires1 being secured to the uprights and rails with pins4 ,two pieces of #a_/d-;in4 board are next got out for the top1 measuring #b ft4 #aj in4 long1 #d in4 across the centre1 and slanting at the upper edge to #a_/d in4 at the ends4 ,the design is worked on these in split1 the boards being kept in place with pins driven through the top rails1 and the back and front connected at the top point by a length of wood of #b-;in4 by #a-;in4 section 7see ,fig4 #aai74 ,the roof-pieces1 #a ft4 #e-a_/b in4 by #a ft4 #g-a_/d in4 by #a_/d in41 are nailed on and covered with split stuff1 as shown by ,fig4 #abj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abj4--;,half ,plan of ,aviary ,roof4 ,a sliding bottom or tray is required for cleaning purposes2 this is of #a_/d-;in4 board1 and is nailed to the strip that fits between the rails in front2 other strips about #a in4 wide are nailed on the upper side at the extreme ends and back edge to form a tray for the sand1 runners being put in against the lower end rails4 ,the front strip is treated with the split1 and to draw out the tray1 the door may be slightly raised to admit the fingers to push it forward from the inside4 ,two additional perches put across from the wires1 and fixed with staples1 give strength to the front and back4 ,the aviary is now gone over with fine glass-paper1 all white places being touched up with the stain and nicely varnished1 with the exception of the perches4 ,the aviary will stand on a table1 but may be hung from the ceiling if desired4 ,for hanging purposes1 four screw-eyes are put in the top1 two on the ridge1 about #c in4 from the front and back1 and one towards each end1 placed midway to catch the rails4 ,the four ceiling hooks should screw into the joists1 the aviary being suspended with chains4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,foot-,,bridges4 ,very pleasing effects may be produced in public or private recreation grounds by the constructional use of rustic work of good design4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aba4--,rustic ,foot-bridge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abb4--;,cross ,section of ,foot-bridge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abc4--;,enlarged ,section of ,girders for ,foot-bridge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abd4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abe4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #abd and #abe4--,parts of ,joint of ,post and ,girder4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abf4--;,detail of ,middle ,rail and ,post of ,foot-bridge4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #abg and #abh4--;,joint of ,strut to ,post of ,foot-bridge4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abi4--,twig ,hollowed to fit ,rail of ,foot-bridge4 ,fig4 #aba is a perspective view of a rustic foot-bridge suitable for a span of #h ft4 or #ab ft4 ,the banks of the stream to be bridged are excavated to allow of the building of a low rubble wall1 on which the sleepers rest1 as shown in ,fig4 #abb4 ,the girders are formed of spruce or larch spars4 ,in the present instance1 four are used2 and they may be #h in4 or #aj in4 in diameter1 according to the length of the span4 ,they are roughly adzed down to sit on the sleepers1 and each girder is also worked down tolerably flat on the inner sides4 ,the girders are then bolted together in pairs with six #c_/d-;in4 diameter coach bolts1 as shown by ,fig4 #abc4 ,the posts are tenoned and wedged to fit mortices in the girders4 ,figs4 #abd and #abe show the mortice and tenon joint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acj4--;,elevated ,foot-bridge4 ,the posts and top rails are #d-a_/b in4 or #e-a_/b in4 in diameter1 and the intermediate rails #c in4 in diameter4 ,fig4 #abf indicates the method of jointing the rails to the posts4 ,the girder spars1 with posts and rails fitted1 having been placed in position on the sleepers1 and plumbed up and stayed1 the floor battens1 #aa in4 by #b-a_/b in41 are fixed and the struts are fitted and pinned or spiked to the posts and sleepers4 ,the joint for the struts is shown by ,figs4 #abg and #abh4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aca4--;,girder and ,post of ,elevated ,foot-bridge ,bolted to ,sleeper4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acb4--;,cross ,section of ,elevated ,foot-bridge at ,lower ,step 7,fig4 #acj74 ,if the bridge happens to be in a locality that is subject to periodical flooding1 it should be anchored to prevent its being unseated by flood water4 ,the anchoring can be best effected by driving four short piles into the soil on the inside of both girders and near their ends4 ,the girders can be fastened to the piles with coach bolts4 ,the tops of the piles will be concealed by the end floor battens4 ,the smaller twigs forming the ornamentation are now fixed1 and ,fig4 #abi shows the vertical piece hollowed to fit the rails4 ,fig4 #acj gives a part view1 in longitudinal section1 of an elevated bridge1 suitable for a span of #ab ft4 to #ah ft41 and raised on piles to enable small boats and canoes to pass under4 ,elm logs are suitable for the pile foundation4 ,an iron ring must be fitted over the tops of the logs while they are being driven1 and it will be necessary to use a pile-driver4 ,the logs1 having been sufficiently driven1 are cut off to the required height from the ground line4 ,three piles on each side are required to carry the sleepers4 ,the bridge is #e ft4 #f in4 wide1 and the spars for girders are #ab in4 in diameter4 ,the sleepers are bolted to the piles1 and the girders are also bolted to the sleepers as shown by ,fig4 #aca4 ,a row of smaller piles is now driven1 and a plank1 #aa in4 by #c in41 is housed to the top ends of these piles1 and also connected to the projecting ends of the girders4 ,the treads of the steps rest upon the tops of the smaller piles1 and the outer side of the piles and planks is covered with split saplings 7see ,fig4 #acj1 and the cross-section1 ,fig4 #acb74 ,the handrails and balustrades are fixed in similar manner to those in ,fig4 #aba4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,verandahs4 ,the front elevation of a rustic verandah is presented by ,fig4 #acc1 which shows a part only1 which may be extended to any required length at either end4 ,as to the width1 that indicated is #c-a_/b ft4 from the wall to the middle of the collar-posts1 the eaves having a further projection of #f in4 ,for a cottage verandah the width given is a satisfactory one4 ,it gives sufficient room for seats on a hot day1 or for a promenade on a wet one4 ,the width1 as also the height1 can easily be increased to suit a larger house4 ,the verandah is supposed to be built on a raised platform of brick or stone4 ,all parts of the actual framework are of straight natural wood1 preferably larch2 whilst the mere filling-in of rustic open-work is of small crooked stuff--probably oak or apple tree4 ,the roof1 as illustrated1 is of tiles4 ,it will be seen that the posts which support the verandah are arranged in pairs1 so that #c in4 or #c-a_/b in4 poles will suffice for them4 ,their bases are supposed to be dowelled to the masonry of the platform on which they stand2 they are #f ft4 #f in4 high4 ,except at the entrances1 a sill of half-stuff runs from post to post on the platform4 ,at a height of #c ft4 #c in4 they are connected by a round bar of smaller material1 and1 again1 by a second cross-bar of similar size to the last1 at #f in4 from their upper ends4 ,on the tops of the posts rests a lintel of half-stuff of larger diameter--say #e in4 ,the upper and lower cross-bars come opposite to the middles of the posts1 but need not be mortised into them1 for if their ends are cut ,v-shaped1 so as to clip the posts1 they can be nailed quite firmly4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acc4--;,front ,elevation of ,verandah4 ,the lower cross-rail is placed at a convenient height for leaning upon4 ,at a height of #e ft4 #f in4 caps are formed by simply nailing four pieces of quartered stuff round each post4 ,the diagonal braces which start from above the capitals pass in front of the upper cross-bars1 to which and to the lintel they are nailed4 ,fig4 #acc sufficiently shows how the panels between the pairs of posts and the frieze between the upper cross-bar and lintel are filled with open-work of small crooked branches1 which contrasts in a pleasing manner with the straight pieces of the framework4 ,this open-work may be made available for1 and will be found useful as1 a support for climbing plants4 ,in so narrow a structure the rafters alone will suffice to keep all in place1 without anything of the nature of a tie-beam being called for4 ,these rafters will be of half-stuff1 and for the given width a length of #e ft4 will be enough2 this will allow of such a projection beyond the lintel as will give the eaves a width of #f in42 the pitch will be rather less than a true pitch1 but amply steep for the purpose4 ,a piece of half-stuff nailed to the wall will support the upper ends of the rafters4 ,in forming the roof it is proposed to board over the whole space upon the rafters1 and to nail the tiles or other covering upon the boards4 ,the inside may be lined beneath the boarding with rush matting4 ,this is an inexpensive material2 its brownish-green hue is pleasing to the eye1 and it is so inartificial in appearance as to harmonise well with the natural wood4 ,after fixing the rafters1 the matting is to be stretched tightly across them before the boards are nailed down4 ,it is probable that the rafters will be arranged with intervals of about a foot between them1 and to hold the matting more closely to the boards a strip of split rod may be nailed up the middle of each space1 or strips may be nailed so as to form a simple ornamental pattern2 an intricate one will not be desirable1 as fixing it will be overhead work4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acd4--;,front ,elevation of ,glazed ,verandah for ,grape ,culture4 ,a neat1 but less characteristic1 ceiling may be formed by painting the boards a suitable colour and slightly ornamenting them with split strips of rod4 ,in this case the boards should be planed4 ,none will be better for this purpose than #c_/d-;in4 flooring boards1 and these are commonly sold planed on one side4 ,other ways of lining the roofs of rustic buildings are discussed in ,chapter ,,xiii4 ,for summer-houses thatch makes a good-looking roof1 but a thatched verandah would scarcely be desirable unless attached to a thatched cottage4 ,practically the choice lies between shingles1 metal1 and tile or slate4 ,a metal roof is1 undoubtedly1 that most easily fixed by the beginner2 black sheet iron looks better than galvanised1 and must be kept painted4 ,as a matter of taste1 metal looks thin and poor1 but it becomes less objectionable when painted2 a deep1 dull red would be the colour to be preferred4 ,perhaps1 of all available coverings1 nothing will look better than tiles1 as drawn4 ,red or buff tiles will in themselves look best1 but the choice must1 to an extent1 be influenced by the general covering of the house4 ,it may be1 if that is of slate1 that small slates will come in most appropriately2 but whichever of these coverings is used1 the best finish against the wall will be with a flashing of metal1 as shown4 ,it has been asserted by some who consider themselves authorities in matters of taste that nothing of the nature of a greenhouse ever harmonises with natural surroundings1 or is otherwise than an eyesore in a garden in other respects beautiful4 ,the hard1 straight lines of wood or metal1 and wide surfaces of shining glass1 are not pleasing1 and are too suggestive of the shop and factory to accord well with natural objects4 ,it has been suggested that the difficulty might be overcome by combining rustic work with glass4 ,this1 at the first glance1 looks fairly easy2 but1 on consideration1 it will be seen to be otherwise4 ,rustic carpentry is in its nature irregular1 and cannot be brought to those level planes and straight lines essential to glass-work2 whilst for interiors1 and especially those of houses intended for vines1 rough bark-coloured surfaces afford too much shelter to insect pests--so that1 in reality1 rustic-work can only be made applicable to a very limited extent4 ,in the grape-growing verandah shown by ,fig4 #acd1 therefore1 only a limited amount of rustic-work has been introduced1 and that on the outside4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ace4--,side ,view of ,bottom of ,post for ,glazed ,verandah4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acf4--,side ,view of ,top of ,post for ,glazed ,verandah4 ,such of the materials as are of a rustic kind are1 for the parapet and uprights1 some rather small larch poles or other tolerably straight1 round stuff1 and for the panels1 some of those slabs1 or rough outside planks4 ,as to the posts1 and such parts as are not rustic1 they are supposed to be of good deal4 ,the sash-bars1 which carry the glass both in roof and walls1 are to be bought struck by steam at a lower price than they can be worked by hand1 or sashes may be bought ready glazed4 ,for glazing work of this kind1 #af-oz41 or sometimes #bj-oz41 glass is used4 ,as in the design for an open rustic verandah 7see ,fig4 #acc7 it is intended that the collar-posts should be set upon and dowelled into a raised platform of masonry4 ,the present structure is1 of course1 intended for the warmer sides of a house1 south or west4 ,the width1 to meet particular cases1 can be varied1 but is1 according to the drawings1 #d-a_/b ft4 ,the posts are #f ft4 high and #c-a_/b in4 square4 ,they are set with spaces between them alternately of #c ft4 and #d-a_/b ft4 ,on their tops rests a wall-plate of the same width as themselves1 and #b-a_/b in4 deep4 ,the rafters1 which are sash-bars rebated to carry the glass1 rest on this wall-plate1 and against a second vertical one fixed to the house wall4 ,fig4 #acd is a front elevation of a portion of the verandah1 whilst ,fig4 #ace gives a side view of the lower half of one of the collar-posts4 ,at a1 in ,fig4 #ace1 is seen the section of the upper cross-rail1 which has its top #b-a_/b ft4 from the ground2 at b is the lower cross-rail1 or sill4 ,both are of quartered rough stuff1 and are mortised to the post #c_/d in4 from its inner edge1 so that when the #c_/d-;in4 boarding1 c1 is nailed against them1 it will come flush with the inner side of the post4 ,at d is indicated the sash-frame1 with its rebate for glass1 which occupies the upper part of the opening2 and at e is a metal flashing between rail and sash to throw off rain4 ,it is proposed that the sashes in the narrower openings only should be made to push outwards at bottom for ventilation4 ,at f is a piece of halved rough stuff nailed to the front of the post4 ,the panels1 which occupy the lower part of the space between the collar-posts1 are filled with pieces of rough plank or slab1 as shown in ,fig4 #acd4 ,these pieces should wear their natural bark as far as possible2 they are nailed to the inner boarding4 ,in ,fig4 #acf the upper part of a post is in like manner shown in profile3 g is the wall-plate in section1 and h is the lower end of a rafter4 ,at i will be observed a strip of quartered stuff nailed across the post 7with a fir-cone bradded beneath it71 which gives a starting-point to the upright k1 by which the openwork rustic parapet is supported4 ,these uprights are of small round stuff1 slightly flattened on the side towards the post4 ,the openwork parapet is too plainly figured to need description2 it is intended to break to a certain extent the straight lines1 and partially to conceal the glass-work of the roof1 without seriously interfering with sunshine4 ,so much of the planed wood-work as shows outside should be painted of a good brown1 to assimilate with the rustic-work4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,tool ,,houses1 ,,garden ,,shelters1 ,,etc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acg4--;,end ,elevation of ,rustic ,tool ,house4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ach4--,side ,elevation of ,rustic ,tool ,house4 ,for the small rustic tool house shown by ,figs4 #acg and #ach the materials used are what are known as slabs or rough planks4 ,these are cheap1 and have1 when judiciously handled1 a good picturesque effect4 ,these slabs are the outside slices cut from logs of rough timber4 ,these slabs generally retain their bark 7except in the case of oak71 and in most districts they will commonly be of elm4 ,their thickness and outlines are necessarily irregular3 one end will frequently be narrower than the other2 and this will account for the arrangement seen in the walls and door of the tool house4 ,they are to be bought at saw-mills1 and often sold at a fire-wood price4 ,where their cost is not sensibly increased by carriage1 no other material comes so cheaply for building rough sheds4 ,the ordinary country way of using them is as in the horizontal section1 ,fig4 #aci4 ,this plan1 however1 is not suitable for the present purpose4 ,in so small a structure1 rough planks on the inner side would take up too much space ,it is1 therefore1 proposed to straighten the edges1 either by sawing or by chopping with the axe1 according to circumstances1 and lining their inner sides with thin board4 ,if the cost be not objected to1 #a_/b-;in4 match-boarding will be neatest for this purpose2 if economy is an object1 the boards of packing-boxes1 bought from the grocer1 might suffice4 ,there are1 it will be seen1 three sides only to be lined4 ,among a lot of rough planks1 it is likely that stuff may be found sufficient for the posts and other scantling4 ,as to the six pilasters1 which are added for appearance merely1 it is possible that stuff might be found which would1 when sawn to width1 do for them2 in the illustration they are supposed to be fir poles or elm saplings2 four sticks only are needed to supply the six halves and four quarters used4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aci4--;,common ,method of ,using ,slabs4 ,at the corners are four main posts1 #d in4 square 7see a1 ,fig4 #adj74 ,these enclose a space of #g ft4 by #e ft4 7outside measurement74 ,they are let into the ground #b ft41 and rise #e ft4 #c in4 above the ground line4 ,on their tops1 and coming flush with their outer edges1 rest the wall-plates1 which are #c in4 deep2 these are needed at the back and sides only1 and not at the front4 ,on the same three sides will also be cross-rails1 #b in4 to #c in4 thick1 the ends of which will be let flush into the posts about a foot from the ground4 ,to the wall-plates and these rails the slabs are nailed4 ,in the side elevation1 ,fig4 #ach1 the nails driven into the cross-rails appear1 but not those driven into the wallplate1 a piece of rough stuff being there shown as fixed over the latter to support the eaves of the thatch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adj4--;,ground ,plan of ,rustic ,tool ,house4 ,to the front are to be seen the two door-posts1 b1 b1 ,fig4 #adj1 which are #b ft4 #h in4 apart1 and should be about #c in4 square4 ,as their tops are nailed to the front pair of rafters1 they rise to a height of #f ft4 #f in4 ,the space between door-post and corner-post is filled up by a single slab nailed to the two--#e ft4 #f in4 long by #aj in4 broad4 ,above these1 instead of a wall-plate1 comes the piece of strong slab1 shown in ,fig4 #acg as having an opening cut in it for the head of the door4 ,this is nailed against the door-posts1 rafters1 etc4 ,the pilasters are only a matter of ornament4 ,as drawn1 they are of halved stuff2 the corner ones are so placed that their middles come opposite to the corners of the posts1 on the other faces of which pieces of quartered stuff are nailed to meet them4 ,the simple arrangement of the caps of these pilasters1 with their decorations of fir cones1 is shown on a larger scale in ,fig4 #ada4 ,the horizontal piece beneath the eaves1 nailed over the slabs1 has the effect of resting on the caps4 ,beneath the thatch at front and back corresponding pieces are fixed1 those at the front being ornamented with fir cones nailed upon them4 ,the roof is shown in the elevations as thatched4 ,no other covering will look so well1 or be so thoroughly in keeping with other parts4 ,the non-professional builder finds it easy to prepare for thatch1 any rough stuff serving as rafters and laths1 and inequalities being of no account4 ,the rafters for thatch should be arranged about #a ft41 the laths about #f in4 apart4 ,should there1 however1 be reasons for not employing thatch1 the building may be more quickly and easily1 if not more cheaply1 roofed with galvanised iron2 only the gables will then best be made sharp instead of blunt1 as at present4 ,regarding the door1 its outer slabs1 which appear in ,fig4 #acg1 are simply nailed to three ledgers of the same4 ,being of such rough materials1 it will open better if hung on hooks and thimbles than on butt hinges4 ,the dotted line at c1 ,fig4 #adj1 marks the projection of a set of shelves1 about five in number1 which fill the whole of the left-hand side4 ,of these1 the lower will be for flower-pots1 the upper for lines1 setting-pins1 trowels1 etc4 ,at d is shown a strip of wood fixed across the floor to hold the wheel of the barrow from running back when that useful vehicle is tilted up against the end wall1 which will be the place assigned for it4 ,in the gable and upper part of this end will be hooks or pegs on which to hang the riddle1 watering-cans1 and such matters4 ,at e is an upright let into the ground1 which1 at the height of #b ft41 supports rails running to side and back2 these form a kind of stand for spades1 forks1 and tools of that description4 ,above1 against the wall-plate1 may be more hooks or pegs4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ada4--;,enlarged ,cap of ,tool ,house ,pilaster4 ,it is suggested that at f a seat might be fixed to fold down like the leaf of a table when not wanted4 ,as this building would form a snug shelter in a shower1 such a seat would be a convenience2 but the more important use of this space is that slightly below the level of the eaves it will be fitted with a rack for hoes1 rakes1 and similar implements4 ,such a rack is best made by boring #a_/b-;in4 holes in a strip of wood at intervals of #c in41 and driving pegs into them #e in4 or #f in4 long4 ,this has to be nailed so that the pegs will slope upwards1 at an angle of about #de4 ,rakes1 etc41 hung in a rack so made cannot fall4 ,figs4 #acg and #ach are #a_/c in4 to the foot2 ,fig4 #adj is #a_/b in4 to the foot2 but ,figs4 #aci and #ada are not drawn to scale4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adb4--;,garden ,snuggery4 ,the garden snuggery1 of which a general view is shown at ,fig4 #adb1 and a ground plan at ,fig4 #adc1 is built chiefly of wood1 and measures #aj ft4 by #g ft4 #h in4 inside1 not including the porch1 which is #c ft4 wide2 it may serve as a summer-house4 ,a building as small as this needs but little foundation4 ,if the ground is level1 it is only necessary to lay four large flat stones on the surface1 ,a ,a 7,fig4 #add71 to carry the timbers1 the floor being thus raised enough to keep it dry4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adc4--,plan of ,ground ,framework of ,garden ,snuggery4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #add4--;,back ,framework for ,garden ,snuggery4 ,the two side sills ,b 7,fig4 #adc7 are each #aj ft4 #h in4 long1 #f in4 wide1 and #d in4 thick1 and rest on the stones2 on them lie the end sills ,c ,c1 which are #h ft4 #b in4 long4 ,these sills are halved together at the ends1 and a hole is bored through them where the middle of the collar-post will rest4 ,this hole should be bored a couple of inches into the stone1 and an iron pin or dowel #h in4 long driven in2 the pin will thus stand a couple of inches above the face of the sill1 and will fit into a hole in the collar post4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ade4--;,front ,elevation of ,snuggery ,porch4 ,the joists ,d 7,fig4 #adc7 for supporting the floor are five in number1 each being #h ft4 long1 #b-a_/b in4 wide1 and #c in4 deep4 ,they are halved for a distance of #b in4 at each end to fit into slots1 #a-a_/b in4 deep1 made for them in the sills1 and are nailed in place4 ,when fixed their upper surfaces are level with the sills4 ,the four collar-posts ,e 7,figs4 #adc and #add7 are each #f ft4 #i in4 long and #d in4 square1 and1 when set up1 their outer sides come flush with the sills4 ,the uprights ,f 7,figs4 #adc and #add7 are #c in4 square1 and need to be #b in4 longer than the collar-posts1 as their lower ends are halved for this distance to fit slots in the outer sides of the sills4 ,there are four of such uprights at each side1 three at the back and two at the front1 the latter serving also as door cheeks4 ,they are nailed in place with their outer sides flush with those of the collar-posts and sills4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adf4--,side ,elevation of ,window-board4 ,for the rustic pillars of the portico ,g 7,fig4 #ade7 nothing will be more suitable than larch poles about #d-a_/b in4 in diameter at the base2 failing larch1 fairly straight pieces of any rough1 round wood could be used4 ,the pillars are shown in ,figs4 #adb and #ade standing upon and dowelled to pieces of stone4 ,when in position1 their tops will be level with the collar-posts and uprights1 their centres being #b ft4 #d in4 in advance of the front sill4 ,on the collar-posts1 uprights1 and pillars are placed the wall plates ,h 7,fig4 #add71 of which there are four belonging to the snuggery proper1 each #e in4 wide and #c in4 thick4 ,the side plates are #ac ft4 #d in4 long1 and are halved where they rest on the collar-posts and pillars1 to receive the ends of the cross-plates1 which are #h ft4 #b in4 long and halved to a distance of #e in4 from their ends4 ,the wall-plates come flush with the collar-posts and uprights on which they rest1 and to which they are nailed4 ,there is also a fifth wall-plate which lies along the tops of the pillars in the front4 ,the best material to use for this would be half of a pole like those used for the pillars1 the flat side resting on the pillar tops4 ,it will be observed that the front ends of the side wall-plates project about #d in4 beyond this piece4 ,ten rafters1 ,k 7,fig4 #add71 will be required for the roof1 each #e ft4 long and #c in4 square4 ,the two outer pairs come flush with the outer sides of the sills and wall-plates4 ,a sixth pair of rafters to stand over the pillars and their wall-plates are made from a round pole cut in half1 with the sawn side laid uppermost4 ,the tops of the rafters butt against a ridge-piece ,l 7,fig4 #add71 made of #a-;in4 board #d in4 deep and #ac ft4 #d in4 long4 ,as shown in ,fig4 #add1 continuations of the uprights are in the back carried from the wall-plate to the roof1 the front being treated in a similar manner4 ,the lintel of the doorway is #f ft4 above the sill1 the door opening being #e ft4 #aa-a_/d in4 by #b ft4 #f in4 after the floor has been laid4 ,the window shown in ,fig4 #adb is #c ft4 above the sill1 and is #c ft4 high2 including the two mullions1 it is #e ft4 #aj in4 wide4 ,the board shown nailed in front of the window sill is sloped a little downwards to throw off the rain1 whilst above there is a board #i in4 wide1 nailed at a steeper slope upon brackets1 as seen in ,fig4 #adf1 to shelter the window4 ,the #c_/d-;in4 flooring boards which are used for the floor should be bought ready planed on one side1 and must be well seasoned1 and cramped tightly together in laying1 or there will be chinks between them4 ,similar boards may be used for the outside of the snuggery1 being nailed to the uprights at the back and sides1 as shown in ,fig4 #adg4 ,at the sides this weather-boarding will extend as far forward as the rustic pillars1 thus enclosing the sides of the porch4 ,for the inside of the snuggery use #a_/b-;in4 matchboarding1 as shown in ,fig4 #adg4 ,this may be carried up beneath the rafters to the ridge-piece4 ,the porch may be also matchboarded throughout if desired1 although this is not essential4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #adg and #adh4--,sections of ,snuggery ,walls4 ,there are several methods of making the wooden walls non-conductors of heat1 the most thorough being to pack the space between the inner and outer casings with sawdust4 ,shavings or similar materials could also be used1 but less effectually4 ,another plan is to tack felt over the inner side of the weather-boarding before nailing up the interior casing4 ,but even without any packing1 two thicknesses of board with an air space between make a reasonably good non-conductor4 ,felt is fastened over the matchboard lining of the roof before the iron is put on4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adi4--;,front ,view of ,garden ,retreat4 ,to reduce the cost1 the snuggery can be cased with wood obtained from packing cases4 ,boards thus obtained will1 of course1 be in short lengths1 and will involve more labour2 but the design is so arranged that it will be quite practicable to carry it out with them4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aej4--,plan of ,garden ,retreat4 ,the short lengths can be made to fit between the uprights instead of lying upon them1 and the house will thus look as shown in ,fig4 #adb1 the section of the wall being as shown in ,fig4 #adh1 instead of as in ,fig4 #adg4 ,a strip of lath--that sold for tiling--#a in4 wide and #e_/h in4 thick1 is nailed to the sides of the uprights1 as shown1 and to this the weather-boarding and internal casing are fastened2 the effect being that the walls both inside and out appear to be divided into long panels4 ,the effect may be heightened by painting the framework a darker colour than the boarding4 ,in boarding the roof with this material1 the easiest plan will be to nail the pieces on the upper sides of the rafters1 to cover them with felt1 and upon that to screw the iron4 ,the space between the two casings of the walls1 although much narrower than before1 can be packed with sawdust1 etc4 ,on reference to ,fig4 #ade it will be seen that the caps to the rustic pillars of the porch are formed by nailing round each pillar four short pieces of rough wood quartered1 the two sawn sides being placed upwards and inwards4 ,four rough sticks crossing each other fill the space between wall-plate and the rafters4 ,the bargeboards ,m ,m are sawn from #c_/d-;in4 board1 #i in4 wide1 and are nailed to the ends of the side wall-plates and ridge-piece4 ,they thus project some inches beyond the line of the pillars4 ,they are shown ornamented with fir cones bradded on them2 virgin cork might be used instead4 ,the porch may also have its interior decorated with virgin cork or with rustic mosaic work4 ,at each side of the doorway there is a seat #af in4 high and #ad in4 wide4 ,the door is made by merely nailing the boards to four cross-ledgers4 ,the window lights in ,fig4 #adb are shown filled with fancy lead work1 which is the most suitable way of treating them for a building of this kind4 ,a strip of lath is nailed around the window opening1 as in ,fig4 #adh1 and the leaded light fastened in the rebate thus formed with small wire nails1 a little putty being used to make the joints waterproof4 ,it will1 of course1 be much cheaper to glaze each light with a single sheet of glass puttied in the rebate1 but the effect will not be so good4 ,for the roof1 fourteen #f-;ft4 sheets of corrugated galvanised iron and a #ad-;ft4 run of ridge capping will be needed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aea4--,side ,elevation of ,garden ,retreat4 ,the iron should be screwed1 not nailed1 to the rafters1 and should not cost more than #djs41 including #a-a_/b gross of galvanised screws and washers4 ,the dotted lines at ,n ,n 7,fig4 #adc7 indicate the area covered4 ,its low cost1 the ease with which it is fixed1 and the few timbers required to carry it1 make an iron roof very suitable for a building erected by an amateur workman4 ,it1 however1 has drawbacks1 the chief of which are that it conducts heat too freely1 and has not a very artistic appearance4 ,some precautions against the first defect have already been suggested1 and if the snuggery is erected where it will be shaded by trees during the hotter part of the day1 this disadvantage will be somewhat overcome4 ,its inartistic appearance is greatly due to its colour1 and some improvement may be made by painting4 ,if surrounded by trees1 an iron roof looks very well when painted a reddish-brown colour1 while in other situations a buff1 or a dull sage green1 might be suitable4 ,the paint needs renewing often4 ,another method is to cover the roof with trellis work raised a few inches above the iron1 and upon this to train ivy or other climbing plants4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeb4--;,detail of ,seat of ,garden ,retreat4 ,it will be better to paint the inside of the snuggery than to paper it1 as paper would crack on the boards4 ,should the second and cheaper plan of boarding be adopted1 the rafters1 which are left exposed1 might be coloured dark brown1 and the intermediate spaces of the ceiling painted a buff colour1 whilst on the walls a dark sage green might be used for the framework and a lighter sage green for the panels4 ,if the whole interior is lined with matchboarding1 according to the first method1 the simplest and perhaps best finish would be to use a varnish that had raw or burnt umber ground into it4 ,no fireplace has been provided1 but in ordinary winter weather an oil stove would suffice to warm so small a room2 if more warmth is wanted1 a coal stove might easily be provided1 a hole for its pipe being cut through the roof4 ,in either case a ventilator1 which can be opened or closed at pleasure1 should be arranged near the ridge at each end of the building4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aec4--;,joint of ,garden ,retreat at ,c 7,fig4 #aea74 ,the garden retreat shown in front view by ,fig4 #adi1 and in plan and side elevation by ,figs4 #aej and #aea1 is constructed from straight unbarked fir saplings1 the small twigs of which should be carefully trimmed off4 ,as the bark is to be left on1 it should not be cut or bruised2 then no artificial finish will be necessary1 the bark in itself being sufficient protection against climatic conditions1 and presenting the desired rustic appearance4 ,a new feature in the design is the introduction of a roof or canopy1 which may be covered with a sun blind as shown in ,fig4 #aea2 or a creeping plant may be trained over it4 ,the two front posts are #c in4 in diameter at the base by #f ft4 high1 and the back posts #c in4 in diameter by #e ft4 #f in4 high2 the middle back post is #c ft4 #b in4 high1 and the front leg #a ft4 #d in4 ,the seat rails are #b-a_/b in4 in diameter4 ,the front rail is #f ft4 long2 the back is in two parts1 dowelled to the middle post1 which comes between4 ,the side rails are #a ft4 #i in4 long2 it is advisable to allow a fair margin for hollowing the ends to fit the posts--#c in4 on the length would probably be sufficient4 ,after the ends of the rails have been shaped roughly to fit the posts1 they are bored for the reception of #a-a_/h-;in4 oak or elm dowels2 these are driven into the rails1 and should also be a good fit in the posts4 ,the dowel joint is shown in the top corner of ,fig4 #aeb4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aed4--;,detail of ,front ,joints 7,see ,c4 ,fig4 #aea74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aee4--;,alternative ,method of ,joining ,rails to ,posts4 ,the lower rungs1 arm-rests1 and back rails are jointed to the posts by tapering their ends slightly1 and then tapering the dowel holes to suit with a gouge1 so that the rails will just drive up nicely2 this joint is shown in the bottom corner of ,fig4 #aeb4 ,the rails1 etc41 are finally driven home1 and secured with nails or screws inserted at suitable angles4 ,the back and the side panels are filled with twigs about #a-a_/d in4 in diameter1 the ends of the twigs being trimmed to fit the rails1 and afterwards nailed in position4 ,the seat battens are half-round in section1 and are cut from #c-;in4 saplings1 the flat part being placed downwards4 ,the method of fixing them is shown in ,figs4 #aeb1 #aef1 and #aeg4 ,the seat having been fitted1 the struts under the seat rails are next cut and fixed in position4 ,illustration3 ,fig #aef4--,section of ,middle ,rail at ,a 7,fig4 #aeb74 ,illustration3 ,fig #aeg4--;,detail of ,middle ,rail at ,b 7,fig4 #aeb74 ,the canopy must now be put together4 ,the tops of the posts are first hollowed to form a seating for #b-a_/d-;in4 saplings1 #d ft4 #f in4 long2 these act as principal rafters4 ,before nailing or screwing them to the posts1 it is advisable to sight across them to see if they are in the same plane2 any alteration that may be required to bring them to lie in the same angle can be effected at the seating on the top of the posts4 ,the halved joint at each end of the principals should also be cut 7before fixing up7 for receiving the purlins2 the principals are further steadied with struts1 screwed or nailed to the posts4 ,the purlins are about #b in4 in diameter by #h ft4 #f in4 long1 and are fixed to the halved joint previously made on the principal rafters4 ,smaller twigs1 which act as common rafters1 are in turn fixed to the purlins4 ,fig4 #aec shows the method of jointing at the back of the canopy at ,c 7,fig4 #aea71 and ,fig4 #aed is the detail of the front joints4 ,fig4 #abi 7p4 #id7 is the top of the post hollowed to receive the principal rafter1 ,fig4 #aee is an alternative method of joining the rails to the posts1 ,fig4 #aef is a section near the middle rail at ,a 7,fig4 #aeb71 while ,fig4 #aeg is a detail of middle rail at ,b 7,fig4 #aeb74 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,summer-,,houses4 ,the lean-to summer-house shown by ,fig4 #aeh is intended for a small garden4 ,perhaps in no better way can a dead wall or the back of some unsightly outhouse be better utilised than as the background for such a building4 ,the dimensions of the structure are3 length1 #h ft42 breadth1 #c ft4 #c in42 height1 #h ft4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeh4--,lean-to ,summer-house4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aei4--;,ground ,plan of ,lean-to ,summer-house4 ,its general arrangement is seen in the ground plan 7,fig4 #aei74 ,four pillars1 ,a1 ,b1 ,b1 ,a1 occupy the front4 ,these are poles #c-a_/b in4 or #d in4 in diameter4 ,any rough and tolerably straight wood will do1 but larch is to be preferred4 ,these rise #e ft4 above ground1 and should not have less than #b ft4 below the surface4 ,the dwarf pillars ,c supporting the seat are of similar stuff1 but rather smaller4 ,they show #ad in4 above1 and should be buried about #i in4 below ground4 ,the pilasters ,d are of rather larger stuff sawn in half4 ,these are only #e ft4 long1 as they need not enter into the ground1 being fixed only by strong nails to the wall4 ,illustration3 ,fig #afj4--;,elevation of ,inside of ,end of ,lean-to ,summer-house4 ,the ends of the summer-house 7the space from ,a to ,d7 are of smaller half-stuff1 ranged side by side 7as seen at ,e1 ,e71 and nailed to the cross-pieces1 ,f and ,g1 which appear in ,fig4 #afj4 ,in this last-named figure also appears one of the wall-plates1 resting on and nailed to the tops of the pillars 7,h1 at ,fig4 #afj71 and at ,i is seen where one of the front wall-plates meets it4 ,there are two of these front wall-plates1 each resting on the two pillars to right and left of the entrance1 and their inner ends appear in ,fig4 #aeh1 where the ends of the purlins which form the small gable rest upon them4 ,the wall-plates are of large half-stuff1 with the flat side above4 ,in ,fig4 #afj will be seen how the short cross-piece which carries the sloping end of the roof is supported2 and ,fig4 #afa1 which is a section through the centre of the building1 explains how the ridge-piece of the small gable1 ,e1 rests at its inner end on a crosspiece ,m from rafter to rafter1 seen in section only1 whilst ,n shows the point at which the purlins meet and support the ridge-piece towards its outer end4 ,the intersection of the diagonal braces in the gable is indicated at ,o1 and ,p shows the course of one of the rafters1 and how its upper end rests against the wall1 and upon a ridge-piece of half-stuff1 ,q1 strongly nailed to the masonry4 ,the elevation 7,fig4 #aeh7 explains pretty clearly the ornamental details of the front4 ,they are not elaborate4 ,it will be seen that the top of each pillar has a small cap1 formed of four pieces of quartered stuff1 mitred at the corners1 and that across the opening on each side of the entrance1 near the top1 is a transom of straight wood1 with a little arrangement of crooked bangles round it4 ,over the entrance are diagonal braces crossing1 and also a little filling-in with bangles4 ,the entrance is #e ft4 #aj in4 high4 ,in order that an ornamental and appropriate lining may be given to the back of our summer-house1 it is recommended to plug the wall1 and nail over it a level covering of thin boards--say1 #a_/b-;in4 matchboarding4 ,upon this the decorative work can be bradded4 ,the back of the seat is shown in ,fig4 #aeh to be of rustic mosaic4 ,above this1 as well as under the seats1 a covering of bark has been introduced4 ,british-grown bark1 such as elm1 can be made to lie flat1 but as in any but rural districts this may be difficult to get1 virgin cork may be made to take its place4 ,fig4 #afj gives an inside view of one of the ends1 and from this it will be seen that the ornamentation of those parts varies little from that of the back4 ,the lower band1 however1 answering to the strip under the seats1 is not bark1 which1 in this place1 would be liable to be kicked and destroyed by the feet1 but of smaller half-stuff1 so arranged as to break joint with the outside pieces4 ,this will be seen by referring to the ground plan4 ,any chinks in the ends should be neatly tucked with moss1 so as to make them wind-proof4 ,the roof is of wooden shingles--things which any rough hand at carpentry can prepare and put on for himself4 ,as will be seen from ,fig4 #aeh1 it is easy to give an ornamental character to these4 ,they will have a rustic look1 which will go well with other parts of the structure1 and1 if clumsily made1 the effect will be none the worse4 ,for the present purpose1 suppose the shingles to be #ab in4 by #d in4 ,the lower ends may be sawn to a variety of ornamental shapes4 ,if this covering is used1 instead of nailing laths across the rafters1 it is proposed to cover the whole roof with similar boarding to the back1 and upon this it is a simple thing to nail the shingles1 placing them just as tiles might be placed4 ,whilst nailing them on1 it will be necessary to have some person within to hold a heavy hammer against the place1 otherwise the vibration will jar off the shingles as fast as they are fixed4 ,a #c_/d-;in4 board1 rather wider than half the length of the shingles1 should first be nailed along the eaves to make up the required thickness4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afa4--,section through ,centre of ,lean-to ,summer-house4 ,it will be noticed that the ends of the rafters are made to project so as to give a good breadth of eaves--a desirable feature in so narrow a building1 alike for shade1 shelter1 and the appearance of cosiness4 ,if1 however1 the roof should be thatched1 the projecting rafters will be unnecessary1 as the thatch alone will form sufficient eaves4 ,down the valleys at the juncture of the main roof and the entrance gable a strip of zinc will1 of course1 be nailed before the shingles are put on1 whilst along the ridges a strip of zinc will be nailed upon the shingles2 and this latter will need painting to match the colour of the wood4 ,various suggestions may be given for finishing the inside of the roof4 ,supposing that round or half-round larch stuff has been used for the rafters 7the latter is to be preferred for shingles1 as giving a level surface to board upon71 the space between the rafters may be covered with bark--virgin cork or otherwise--the chinks being stuffed with moss4 ,but if this is done it will be well to fix the bark with screws1 as the vibration caused by driving nails would displace or loosen the shingles4 ,a second plan under the like circumstances would be before nailing the boards upon the rafters to stretch matting across the latter--either ordinary garden bast matting or1 better1 the more substantial rush matting1 both of which are very inexpensive4 ,these have a pleasant natural colour 7the last-named especially1 of a greenish hue71 and are so unartificial in their structure as to appear in no way out of place among rustic work4 ,or it may so happen that suitable larch stuff is not to hand1 and that ordinary sawn scantling has to be used for the rafters4 ,if so1 the whole roof may be hung with ling2 or the rush matting may be stretched across the lower side of the rafters and tacked there1 being afterwards more completely secured and finished by nailing a split hazel or other rod down the middle of each rafter4 ,this last plan makes a neat and pleasing roof4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #afb and #afc4--;,front and ,side ,elevations of ,shelter for ,tennis ,lawn4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afd4--,part ,roof1 ,seat1 and ,floor ,plans for ,tennis ,lawn ,shelter4 ,it scarcely needs to be said that to make such a summer-house look its best the wall on each side ought to be covered with ivy or other creepers2 and it will also be obvious that1 if the height of the wall permits the floor of the summer-house to be raised a step or two above the surrounding level1 the structure will gain thereby both in effectiveness of appearance and in pleasantness as a place in which to sit4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afe4--;,connecting ,plates to ,corner ,post4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aff4--;,fixing ,sleeper to ,posts4 ,illustration3 ,fig #afg4--,section of ,flooring4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afh4--;,finial4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afi4--;,detail of ,garden ,shelter at ,front ,eaves4 ,illustration3 ,fig #agj4--,section of ,seat4 ,the rustic summer-house or tennis lawn shelter illustrated in front and side elevations by ,figs4 #afb and #afc is constructed from straight saplings and twigs that have had their bark removed1 and have been subjected to a reasonable period of seasoning4 ,a new feature in the design is the accommodation under the seats for the reception of the croquet or tennis gear1 and also the extended eaves and floor 7see ,fig4 #afd7 and the open front1 giving at once an uninterrupted view of the game and shelter from the direct rays of the sun4 ,the shelter is #aj ft4 long by #e ft4 #f in4 wide1 the height from the floor to the eaves being #f ft4 #c in41 and from the floor to the ridge #i ft4 ,the four posts are #f ft4 #i in4 long by #f in4 in diameter4 ,the middle and lower end and the back rails are tenoned to the posts1 a flat being formed on the post by the mortise and a corresponding shoulder on the rails4 ,the remaining portion is worked to fit roughly the contour of the post4 ,the plates are #e in4 by #e in4 in section1 and are secured to the posts with long galvanised bolts and nuts and a #c-a_/b-;in4 square washer under the heads of the bolts4 ,when halving the front plate1 allow it to house into the side plates #a-a_/b in42 by this method it will have a bearing on both posts4 ,in ,fig4 #afe the left-hand plate represents the front4 ,the front posts are connected at the floor line by a scantling1 #d in4 by #c in41 which also forms a sleeper for the floor joists2 see ,figs4 #aff and #afg4 ,the structure rests on a low plinth of bricks1 spaces being left for the circulation of air under the floor4 ,the extended floor also rests on bricks placed immediately below the joists2 see ,fig4 #afg1 which is a section on ,c ,d 7,fig4 #afd74 ,the twig plinth nailed around the front will effectually conceal the sleeper and brick foundation4 ,the rafters are #b-a_/b in4 by #c in41 and the ridge and hip rafters #b in4 by #e in41 the finials 7see ,fig4 #afh7 being nailed between the angles of the hips4 ,the eaves in front project #b ft4 beyond the posts1 and ,fig4 #afi shows the method by which the additional width is obtained4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aga4--,strapping ,cushion to ,seat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agb4--;,front ,elevation of ,octagonal ,summer-house4 ,the sides are filled with #e_/h-;in4 vee-grooved and tongued boarding1 to which is attached the rustic work4 ,the stained glass windows are fixed1 and on the outer side of the back are diagonal braces made from split saplings1 while in the centre a vertical post runs from sill to plate4 ,the braces and post are shown in the plan 7,fig4 #afd74 ,the seats are constructed to form lockers 7see ,fig4 #agj1 which is a section at ,a ,b1 ,fig4 #afd71 their height being #a ft4 #c in41 which1 with the addition of a #c-;in4 cushion1 will form comfortable sitting accommodation4 ,the cushions are retained in place by straps passing through slots and fastening over suitable studs on the under side2 see ,fig4 #aga4 ,this method provides a means of easily removing and quickly replacing the cushions when required for use4 ,a space of #c in41 or a distance equal to the thickness of the cushions1 must be left at the sloping back1 to allow the seat to open properly4 ,the nature of the locker is partly concealed by the rustic work of split twigs that is nailed to the front4 ,next fix the lattice work between the finials and under the front plate4 ,the short struts on the front posts are more for effect than for any real support4 ,the roof is boarded on the inside1 the work being carried on the rafters as far as the collar ties1 and continued flat on these4 ,moulding is fixed in the angles formed between the rafters and ties1 and a cornice is fixed at the plates4 ,the heels of the rafters and plates are also boarded around1 as shown in ,fig4 #afi4 ,the roof may be covered with thatch of wheat1 straw1 reeds1 broom1 or heather1 and the whole of the woodwork visible should be varnished4 ,the summer-house illustrated by ,fig4 #agb is suited to a garden of moderate size1 one in which space is not so restricted as to necessitate crowding the building close against a wall4 ,this octagonal summer-house has a continuous seat some #ae ft4 long4 ,from side to side each way it measures #aj ft4 ,fig4 #agb is an elevation of the front of the house4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agc4--;,ground ,plan of ,octagonal ,summer house4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agd4--,section of ,octagonal ,summer-house at ,y ,z 7,fig4 #agc71 showing ,framework4 ,its framework and the main part of it are of larch poles2 other woods are1 however1 used for minor purposes4 ,the roof is of thatch4 ,in the arrangement of this building there is a certain resemblance to a tent4 ,it has a central pillar1 ,a1 not unlike a tent pole1 which sustains much of the weight of the roof4 ,being of first importance1 this pillar is somewhat larger than any of the other timbers--say #f in4 in diameter near its bottom1 and tapering as little as may be4 ,a rod of iron or wood rises from its top to form the centre of the straw pinnacle seen crowning the roof in ,fig4 #agb4 ,this pillar shows a height of #aa ft4 #b in4 above ground1 and it should be let #c ft4 or more into the soil2 for it will need to be firmly fixed1 or it may be forced out of the perpendicular during the erection of the roof2 when the roof timbers are once fixed in place1 it will have little further chance of moving4 ,the diagram ,fig4 #agc is a ground plan1 and ,fig4 #agd is a section showing the timbers from the interior2 both are drawn on a scale of #a_/d in4 to the foot4 ,the eight collar-posts 7,b1 ,figs4 #agc and #agd7 at the corners of the octagon are of somewhat smaller stuff--say #d in4 ,they show #f ft4 above ground1 and should have #b ft4 below4 ,it will be well to gas-tar all the underground work4 ,the ground plan of a building in this shape is readily laid out4 ,the space being levelled1 a string is taken which has a loop at each end1 and is #e ft4 #b in4 long4 ,with a stake driven through the loop at one end as a centre1 and with a stick passed through the loop at the other to serve as the travelling leg of the compasses1 a circle is struck #aj ft4 #d in4 in diameter1 and into this pegs are driven at equal intervals 7#d ft4 apart7 to mark the centres of the eight collar-posts4 ,whilst digging the holes for the posts1 these points are kept by drawing two straight lines on the ground which intersect at the peg4 ,the cross-pieces which rest on the collar-posts1 and which serve as wall-plates1 are a trifle smaller stuff than the posts--say #c in4 ,fig4 #age shows how they are cut to fit the tops of the posts1 and nailed there4 ,in this building there are no mortise and tenon joints4 ,on these ends above the posts rest the lower ends of the eight main rafters1 ,d1 the upper ends of which rest against and are nailed to the central pillar4 ,the eight intermediate rafters1 ,e1 rest at the bottom on the middles of the side plates1 and at top are cut to fit upon and between the tops of the main rafters4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #age4--;,collar ,posts and ,ends of ,wall ,plates4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agf4--,timbers over ,entrance of ,octagonal ,summer-house4 ,the laths used are in this case in no way particular--any sticks will do2 they will not be seen1 and under thatch there is no necessity that a level surface should be formed by them1 as for slates or tiles4 ,they are nailed #f in4 or #h in4 apart4 ,the gable over the entrance is arranged as in ,fig4 #agf4 ,the laths1 when nailed on1 will have to run over the little ridge formed by ,f1 instead of keeping the level1 as on the other sides4 ,this will cause no special difficulties in the thatching4 ,the walls are of larch poles sawn in half4 ,to split a number of heavy poles with the handsaw is tedious work1 and it is better to get them run through by the nearest steam saw4 ,the quantity of half-stuff required may be easily calculated2 one of these sides will take about five and a half #f-;ft4 lengths of #d-;in4 stuff4 ,the tops of these wall-pieces are sawn obliquely to fit against the round wall-plates to which they are nailed4 ,in their lower parts they are nailed to the lower cross-pieces1 ,g1 ,g1 ,g1 ,fig4 #agd4 ,these latter will best be made of rather large stuff quartered1 since their upper sides on which the seat-boards rest should be level1 as well as their backs1 which go against the wall-pieces4 ,the middle cross-pieces are of smaller half-stuff1 and should be nailed to the wall-pieces rather than that the wall-pieces should be nailed to them2 for they are in a conspicuous place1 and nails driven through them and clenched would be unsightly4 ,the front supports of the seats are let into the ground some #f in41 and rise #ad-a_/b in4 above the ground line4 ,the seats should be cut from #a-;in4 board1 and should be about #af-a_/b in4 wide4 ,in the two window sides of the octagon 7see ,figs4 #agg and #agb71 the space below the windows is filled with whole poles1 their bottoms resting on a sill let in level with the ground1 and their tops nailed into through a cross-piece of half-stuff 7,k1 ,fig4 #agg74 ,the mullions and transoms of the windows--mere sticks--are of small straight larch stuff1 but the ornamental filling in above is of crooked branches--oak bangles by preference1 though apple-wood would do very well4 ,it often happens that an old apple-tree is cut down1 and at once condemned as firewood2 yet its stem may have grotesque knots1 and its branches picturesque contortions which would make it valuable for rustic work4 ,whenever rustic building is contemplated1 it is well that such wood should be laid by2 a single tree would supply all the small quantity of crooked stuff that is required in the present instance4 ,even the interlaced stems of ivy1 when an old growth has covered a wall1 have sometimes been utilised to excellent effect4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agg4--,window ,side of ,octagonal ,summer-house4 ,it may be observed that any chinks between the pieces beneath the windows1 as well as in the walls generally1 are most readily and appropriately rendered wind-proof by neatly stuffing with moss4 ,fig4 #agg gives a full front elevation of one of the window sides 7they being only seen obliquely in ,fig4 #agb71 and it is on the #a_/b-;in4 scale4 ,four stout crooked pieces are used as struts to support the table 7drawn to #a in4 scale in ,figs4 #agh and #agi72 #c_/d-;in4 board will suffice for the top of this table1 and it will probably be cut from two widths4 ,to give proper strength to the ornamental border 7seen in ,fig4 #agi71 a second thickness of the board is attached below each corner1 extending #c or #d in4 to each side1 so as to allow each of the longer bits of split rod to be fixed1 as shown1 with two brads4 ,a really satisfactory material in which to finish the top of a rustic table is not easily found2 it must give a level surface1 and at the same time be in harmony with its surroundings4 ,board1 planed or painted1 oilcloth1 or any manufactured material1 is felt to be out of place2 marble or slate looks cold and hard4 ,nothing that is absolutely level satisfies the requirements2 the best alternative is rustic mosaic4 ,by this is meant split rods of wood so bradded down as to form patterns4 ,for the present purpose1 however1 the mosaic must be kept more neat and smooth than usual4 ,fig4 #agh shows the top of the table thus treated4 ,the rods most in favour for rustic mosaic are those of the hazel4 ,they are to be bought cheaply and abundantly when the undergrowth of woods is cut4 ,they have a smooth and pretty bark1 and the useful size is from #c_/d in4 to #a-a_/b in4 ,sticks of other kinds of the same size can also be used3 birch and wild cherry may be named among those with smooth bark1 and wych elm and maple among those with rough2 willow or withy1 again1 is of most common growth1 and exceedingly useful4 ,in river-side neighbourhoods it is often the cheapest and most plentiful of all woods4 ,for mosaic work1 it is always peeled1 for its bark is unattractive1 and its light colour when stripped makes it tell well in contrast to the dark bark of other woods4 ,if used1 as it often is1 for outdoor purposes in garden carpentry1 it should always be peeled4 ,country carpenters have a saying that withy lasts twice as long without its bark as with it2 and in this there is much truth1 for the loose bark holds the wet to the wood and causes it to rot4 ,to make it peel freely1 it should be cut just as the young leaves make their appearance4 ,the like holds good with other woods2 but if it is desired that the bark should hold firmly1 the wood should be cut down in dead of winter1 when all the sap is down4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #agh and #agi4--,plan and ,elevation of ,table for ,octagonal ,summer-house4 ,the top of the table is supposed to be mainly composed of peeled withy4 ,the pattern contains only the double dark line bounding the star and the single strip round the edge in hazel4 ,so much white will not look amiss in this place1 and withy is easily worked4 ,hazel and most woods twist so much in the grain that it is rarely safe to split them except with the saw1 but withy--in short lengths like these1 at least--can be split with a hatchet4 ,in rough carpentry there is no more pretty or interesting work than these mosaics4 ,the backs of the seats 7,fig4 #ahj71 and the seats themselves 7,fig4 #aha71 are decorated in this way4 ,on the seats themselves1 as on the table top1 hazel and withy are contrasted1 and form a design in alternate triangles2 the separating bands1 it may be noticed1 have a light strip against the dark1 and a dark strip against the light1 triangle4 ,along the edge of the seats one or two strips merely are nailed lengthwise4 ,in such a situation an ornamental edging like that round the table would be too liable to be broken4 ,it is recommended that the back of the seats should be in dark bark-covered woods only1 for the mosaic in that position will look better without any mixture of the light-coloured withy4 ,the upper compartments of the sides with which the backs of those sitting down will not come in contact may be more quickly and yet pleasingly covered with sheets of bark4 ,elm bark is good for the purpose4 ,it may be peeled in large sheets from the trunks of trees felled in spring1 when the sap is rising2 and whilst it is drying should have bricks or stones laid on it to press it flat4 ,when dried1 it is nailed to the walls1 and any cracks which appear can be neatly filled with moss4 ,the space beneath the seats is also shown as roughly covered with bark4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahj4--,seat ,side of ,octagonal ,summer-house4 ,the almost conical roof is thatched4 ,no other covering is so pleasing as thatch for a rustic building4 ,its colour and rough texture harmonise well with the natural wood1 and all its associations are of a rustic character2 no other covering so effectually excludes the summer heat1 and nowhere can one find a retreat so suggestive of coolness1 quiet1 and repose1 as under the low eaves of a thatched building4 ,thatch has1 it must be admitted1 certain practical disadvantages--birds and winds are apt to scatter fragments from it1 and it needs renewing at comparatively short intervals4 ,the common saying is that a thatched roof needs re-coating every ten years4 ,often1 no doubt1 this is near the truth1 yet really good work will frequently stand for almost twenty years4 ,the materials in use in this country are reeds1 straw1 and stubble4 ,reeds make a strong thatch1 but are not easily to be procured1 except in fenny districts4 ,stubble1 which is the lower and stronger part of the wheat stem1 stands better than straw1 which is its upper and weaker portion2 to last properly1 however1 stubble should be cut immediately after harvest1 and should not be left standing1 as it frequently is1 till the spring1 for then the winter rains1 collecting in its hollow stems1 cause it to rot before it is cut4 ,on small buildings like summer-houses especially1 stubble makes a much more compact and sightly roof than straw4 ,thatching is not costly or difficult work4 ,in agricultural districts a load of stubble--sufficient to thatch three such buildings as the one illustrated--costs #cjs41 and a thatcher expects the wages of a first-class labourer only1 not those of a mechanic4 ,he needs an assistant1 whose business it is to straighten the material into convenient bundles 7called yelvens71 and to supply him as he requires them4 ,if he is re-thatching an old building1 he merely thrusts the ends of his new material into the old thatch with a wooden spud2 but if he is covering a new roof he sews down his yelvens to the laths and rafters with a huge needle and stout tarred string4 ,he begins at the eaves1 laying as wide a breadth as he can conveniently reach on one side of his ladder1 this breadth being called a stelch4 ,he works upwards1 each new layer covering the tar-cord which secures that beneath it2 and thus he goes on till he has reached the ridge4 ,in his second stelch he is careful to blend together its edge and the edge of that already laid1 so that no rain may find its way between them2 and in doing this completely lies much of the superiority of good over bad thatching4 ,when laid1 the thatch is smoothed down and straightened with a gigantic comb1 like the head of a large rake1 one end being without teeth1 and serving as a handle4 ,in the present instance1 the tops of all the stelches meeting in a point are finished and capped by the little bundle of thatching material forming the pinnacle1 which is tightly bound round the rod of wood or iron in its centre4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aha4--,mosaic ,seats for ,octagonal ,summer-house4 ,it is usual to bind thatching down with at least two belts of buckles and runners4 ,in the summer-house 7,fig4 #agb7 two double belts are shown4 ,the buckles have some resemblance to ladies' hair-pins on a colossal scale4 ,they are made of slips of withy1 twisted and doubled in their middles and pointed at their ends2 the runners are long straight slips of the same4 ,these latter are laid across the thatch1 and the buckles1 being placed over them1 are pushed tightly into it--their points being driven upwards1 that wet may not be let into the roof by them4 ,the short diagonal runners seen in the illustration crossing each other between the horizontal lines are used in ornamental thatching only1 and are rather for appearance than for use4 ,lastly1 the eaves are cut to shape1 and trimmed with paring-knife and shears4 ,the roof looks most pretty and cosy within if lined with ling4 ,the ling is fixed in a way somewhat akin to thatching4 ,a layer is placed along the bottom opposite to the eaves1 and secured by a strip of wood nailed from rafter to rafter2 the layer next above hides this strip1 and so the work is carried on to the apex1 where a knot cut from an apple-tree trunk1 a bunch of fir-cones fastened together1 or some such matter1 finishes the whole4 ,in districts where ling is not to be had1 gorse or furze in short pieces may serve instead1 but stout gloves are required to handle it2 or the ends of fir branches may do1 if nothing better offers4 ,it is not always easy to decide on the best way of forming a floor4 ,boards may look out of place4 ,a pitching of pebbles is more in character3 it is dry and cleanly1 and especially if some variety of colour is obtainable1 and the stones are arranged in some geometrical design1 it may add to the ornamental effect4 ,pebbles are not1 however1 pleasing to the feet of those who wear thin shoes4 ,gravel1 where it is always dry1 is apt to become dusty1 and to disagree with ladies' dresses4 ,if1 however1 gravel should be used1 perhaps the best plan to prevent the rising of damp1 and to obviate dust as far as possible1 is to asphalt it3 on the foundation of broken stones and a layer of coarse gravel to put a course of asphalt or of ordinary gas tar1 and on this to sift enough fine washed gravel to hide it4 ,yet a wood pavement of small larch poles1 cut into #e-or #f-;in4 billets1 and pitched with some attention to geometrical arrangement1 will make the most dry and comfortable of floors1 and one which will not harmonise badly with any of the decorative work of our summer-house4 ,the octagonal house illustrated by ,fig4 #ahb is made up of varnished rustic work4 ,the saplings and twigs should be as straight and as regular as possible1 and divested of their bark4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahb4--,octagonal ,summer-house with ,three ,gables4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahd4--,vertical ,section of ,octagonal ,summer-house through ,lower ,part of ,door and ,sill4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahc4--,vertical ,section of ,octagonal ,summer-house through ,side ,casement4 ,illustration3 ,figs4 #ahe and #ahf4--;,elevation and ,plan of ,roof for ,octagonal ,summer-house4 ,the eight posts are #d in4 in diameter by #f ft4 #h in4 long4 ,the short sill pieces are also #d in4 in diameter1 while the middle rails are #c-a_/b in4 in diameter1 and the plate is #c in4 by #d-a_/b in4 ,the floor and roof are constructed from ordinary scantlings4 ,the posts form a circle #f ft4 #f in4 in diameter4 ,they are spaced about #b ft4 #c in4 apart1 except the door-posts1 which are #b ft4 #g in4 centres4 ,flats may be worked on the posts for the better fitting of the door1 panels1 and casements1 and the top edge of the sill is also planed flat to receive the floorboards1 and a rebate is formed for the #e_/h-;in4 matchboard 7see ,fig4 #ahc74 ,the sill and middle rails are scribed and stub-tenoned to the posts4 ,the plate is halved1 dowelled1 and nailed to the posts4 ,the joists are #b in4 by #d in41 and are notched to the sills 7,fig4 #ahd7 and covered with #a-;in4 floorboards4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahg4--,securing ,glass to ,rustic ,casement4 ,the roof is formed with three gables1 four being deemed unnecessary1 as a summer-house is generally fixed with its back to a shrubbery4 ,eight hip rafters are required1 and by fixing the heels of each pair of rafters on the sides of the plate marked #a1 #b1 #c1 and #d 7see ,fig4 #ahe7 more space is acquired for the gables4 ,the ridges and valley-pieces of the gables are attached to a wide batten screwed to the under side of the hip rafters 7see ,figs4 #ahe and #ahf74 ,some of the small battens are omitted from ,fig4 #ahe to give a better view of the gables1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahh4--;,half ,front and ,half ,back ,view of ,door for ,octagonal ,summer-house4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahi4--,section of ,door for ,octagonal ,summer-house4 ,the roof-covering is generally wheat straw1 with a top dressing of either broom or heather4 ,the dark colour of the two latter materials harmonises much better with a varnished house than does a covering wholly of straw4 ,the four lower panels are filled in with matchboarding1 which is carried right up to the plate in the three back divisions4 ,the rustic work1 excepting the back panels1 is then fitted and nailed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aij4--,part ,plan of ,octagonal ,summer-house4 ,there are four casement windows1 which open outward4 ,a section of casement and frame enlarged is shown in ,fig4 #ahg4 ,a shallow rebate is formed to receive the leaded lights1 which are retained in position with split bamboo fixed with round-headed brass screws4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aia4--;,horizontal ,section through ,door ,posts4 ,the door 7,figs4 #ahh and #ahi7 is #f ft4 #a in4 by #b ft4 #c in4 ,the rustic work is overlaid on the frame of the door4 ,the centre of the diamond-shaped panel is filled with cork4 ,the top panel is glazed with stained glass4 ,three butts and a rim lock are fitted on the inside of the door1 and the lower panel is filled with matchboarding4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aib4--,part ,section of ,side ,panel4 ,some further illustrations may be noted4 ,fig4 #aij is a part plan of the octagonal summer-house2 ,fig4 #aia1 horizontal section through door-posts2 ,fig4 #aib1 part section of a side panel2 ,fig4 #aic1 method of fixing plate to posts2 and ,fig4 #aid1 finial4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aic4--;,fixing ,plate to ,posts4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aid4--;,finial4 ,a seat #ac in4 wide1 supported on wide battens1 which in turn rest on shaped brackets1 is fixed at each angle4 ,a sloping back 7see ,fig4 #ahc7 is fitted1 which adds to the general comfort4 ,the decoration of the inside should now receive attention4 ,the floor may be covered with linoleum1 the seats carpeted or cushioned4 ,the sloping backs of the seats and the walls will look well if covered with ,indian matting or ,japanese leather paper4 ,split cane or bamboo may be used with good effect at the joints or angles4 ,the under side of the roof or ceiling should be first covered by stretching canvas across the rafters1 and to this is attached the decorative material4 ,the summer-house stands on stone slabs raised about #a in4 above the ground4 ,the lower ends of the posts are dressed with pitch1 or are stood on sheet lead4 ,the triangular spaces in the gables can be made to open inwards if desired1 and used for ventilation4 ,,index4 ,anchoring ,foot-bridges1 #if ,armchair1 #dj1 #da ,aviary1 #hc-ia ----1 ,bottom1 #hf ----1 ,perches for1 #hc1 #he ----1 ,sliding ,tray for1 #ij ----1 ,wiring for1 #hg1 #hh ----1 ,wood for1 #hc ,bangles1 #cj ,bending ,wood with ,spanish ,windlass1 #bb ,boxes1 ,window1 #ai-ba ,bracket for ,wall1 #aa1 #ab ,canopied ,garden ,seat1 #dg-ea ,canopy for ,garden ,retreat1 #abc1 #abe ---- for ,swing1 #gg-hb ,carriage ,entrance1 #fc-fe ,chair1 ,arm1 #dj1 #da ,chairs and ,seats1 #dj-ea ,collar-posts1 #aad1 #aae1 #adj ,cottage ,porch1 #gf ,door of ,tool ,house1 #aaj ,easel1 ,mitred ,joint for1 #ac ----1 for ,photographs1 #ac-af ----1 ,stain for1 #ae1 #af ,elevated ,foot-bridges1 #ig ,entrance1 ,carriage1 #fc-fe ,fenced ,seat for ,swing1 #hb ,fences1 #eg ,fire-screen1 #ac ,flower-holder1 ,tripod1 #af ,flower-pot ,stand1 #bg1 #bh1 #ce ,foot-bridges1 #ib ----1 ,anchoring1 #if ----1 ,elevated1 #ig ----1 ,girders for1 #id1 #ie ,gables to ,octagonal ,summer-house1 #ada1 #aej-aeh ,garden ,gate1 #eb-ef1 #fb ---- ,plant ,tub1 #ca1 #cb ---- ,retreat1 #abc-abe ---- ,seat with ,canopy1 #dg-ea ---- ,seats1 #da-ea ---- ,snuggery1 #aab-abc ---- ----1 ,collar-posts for1 #aad ---- ----1 ,door for1 #aaf1 #aag ---- ----1 ,joists for1 #aad ---- ----1 ,pillars1 ,caps for1 #abj ---- ----1 ,rafters for1 #aaf ---- ----1 ,roof1 ,boarding1 #abj ---- ---- ----1 ,coverings for1 #aba1 #abb ---- ----1 ,rustic ,pillars of1 #aae1 #abj ---- ----1 ,walls1 ,non-conducting1 #aag ,garden1 ,tool ,house for 7see ,tool ,house7 ---- ,trellis with ,seats and ,gate1 #eh-fb ,gates and ,fences1 #eb-fe ,girders for ,rustic ,footbridges1 #id1 #ie ,grape ,culture1 ,glazed ,verandah for1 #ajd ,hall ,stand1 #af-ah ,hazel ,rods for ,rustic ,mosaic ,work1 #add ,hexagonal ,table1 #ch1 #ci ---- ,vase1 #bi1 #cj ,house1 ,tool1 ,door for1 #aaj ----1 ----1 ,doorposts for1 #aji ----1 ----1 ,folding ,seat for1 #aaa1 #aab ----1 ----1 ,pilaster for1 #aaj ----1 ----1 ,plan of1 #ajh1 #aji ----1 ----1 ,rough ,planks for1 #ajf ,joint1 ,mitred1 #ac ,joists for ,garden ,snuggery1 #aad ,lean-to ,summer-house1 #abf-acd ---- ---- ----1 ,lining for ,walls of1 #abi ---- ---- ----1 ,mosaic ,work for ,walls of1 #acj ---- ---- ----1 ,roof of1 #acj ,lining ,roof with ,ling1 #aej ---- ,summer-house ,walls1 #abi ,mitred ,joint1 #ac ,mosaic ,work1 #add-adf ---- ----1 ,hazel ,rods for1 #add ---- ----1 ,withy for1 #adf ---- ----1 for ,summer-house ,walls1 #acj ,octagonal ,summer-house1 #ach-aeh ---- ---- ----1 ,collar-posts for1 #adj ---- ---- ----1 ,gable for1 #ada ---- ---- ----1 ,ground ,plan of1 #adj ---- ---- ----1 ,roof for1 #adg ---- ---- ----1 ,table for1 #adc ---- ---- ----1 ,thatched1 #ach-aej ---- ---- ----1 ,three-gabled1 #aej-aeh ---- ---- ----1 ,walls for1 #ada ,pedestal for ,sundial1 #ce ,pilaster for ,tool ,house1 #aaj ,pillars of ,garden ,snuggery1 #aae1 #abj ,plant ,stand1 ,rectangular1 #cd ---- ,tub for ,garden1 #ca1 #cb ---- ,vase1 ,large1 #cj1 #ca ---- ----1 ,ornamental1 #cc1 #cd ,porches1 #ga-gf ,rectangular ,garden ,plant ,stand1 #cd ,retreat1 ,garden1 #abc-abe ,roof for ,garden ,snuggery1 #abj-abb ---- for ,lean-to ,summerhouse1 #acj ----1 ,materials for1 #ajb ---- for ,tennis ,lawn ,shelter1 #ach ---- of ,tool ,house1 #aaj ---- for ,verandah1 #ajj ,rosery ,walk1 #ff-gj ,rough ,planks for ,tool ,house1 #ajf ,seats and ,chairs1 #dj-ea ,shelter for ,tennis ,lawn1 #ace ,slabs1 ,fixing1 #ajg1 #ajh ,snuggery1 ,garden1 #aab-abc ----1 ----1 ,collar-posts for #aad1 #aae ----1 ----1 ,door for1 #aaf1 #aag ----1 ----1 ,joists for1 #aad ----1 ----1 ,pillars for1 #abj ----1 ----1 ,rafters for1 #aaf ----1 ----1 ,roof for1 #abj-abb ----1 ----1 ---- ,coverings for1 #aba1 #abb ----1 ----1 ,rustic ,pillars of1 #aae ----1 ----1 ,walls of1 #aag ,spanish ,windlass for ,bending ,wood1 #bb ,stain for ,easel1 #ae1 #af ,stand1 ,flower1 #bg1 #bh ----1 ,flower-pot1 in imitation of ,bamboo1 #ce ----1 ,hall1 #af-ah ----1 ,rectangular ,plant1 #cd ,stelch for ,thatching1 #adh ,stool1 #ah1 #ai ,summer-house1 ,lean-to1 #abf-acd ---- ----1 ----1 ,lining for ,walls1 #abi ---- ----1 ----1 ,mosaic ,work for ,walls of1 #acj ---- ----1 ----1 ,roof of1 #acj ---- ----1 ,octagonal1 #ach-aeh ---- ----1 ----1 ,collar-posts for1 #adj ---- ----1 ----1 ,floor for1 #aej ---- ----1 ----1 ,gable for1 #ada ---- ----1 ----1 ,ground ,plan of1 #adj ---- ----1 ----1 ,roof for1 #adg ,summer-house1 ,octagonal1 ,table for1 #adc1 #add-adg ---- ----1 ----1 ,thatched ,roof of1 #adg ---- ----1 ----1 with ,three ,gables1 #aej-aeh ---- ----1 ----1 ,walls for1 #ada ---- ----1 ----1 ,windows for1 #adb ---- ----1 ,thatched ,octagonal1 #ach-aej ,swing1 ,canopy for1 #gg-hb ----1 ,fenced ,seat for1 #hb ,table for ,octagonal ,summer-house1 #adc-adg ----1 ,hexagon1 #ch1 #ci ----1 ,square1 #cf-ch ,tables1 #cf-ci ,tennis ,lawn ,shelter1 #ace-ach ---- ---- ----1 ,roof for1 #ach ,thatched ,octagonal ,summer-house1 #ach-aej ,thatching1 ,cost of1 #adh ----1 ,stelch1 #adh ----1 ,roof of ,octagonal ,summer-house1 #adg-aej ----1 ,yelvens1 #adh ,tool ,house1 #ajf-aab ---- ----1 ,door1 #aaj ---- ----1 ,doorposts1 #aji1 #aaj ---- ----1 ,folding ,seat for1 #aaa1 #aab ---- ----1 ,pilaster1 #aaj ---- ----1 ,roof1 #aaj ---- ----1 ,rough ,planks for1 #ajf ,trellis1 ,garden1 with ,seats and ,gate1 #eh-fb ,vase1 ,hexagonal1 #bi1 #cj ----1 ,plant1 #cj1 #ca1 #cc1 #cd ----1 ,square1 #bh1 #bi ----1 on ,tripod ,stand1 #bb-bg ,verandahs1 #ih-aje ----1 for ,grape ,culture1 #ajd ----1 ,open1 #ajd ----1 ,posts ,supporting1 #ih1 #ii ----1 ,rafters for1 #ajj ----1 ,roof for1 #ajj ----1 ---- ,materials for1 #ajb ,walk1 ,rosery1 #ff-gj ,wall ,bracket1 #aj1 #aa ,windlass1 ,spanish1 #bb ,window ,boxes1 #ai-ba ,wiring ,aviary1 #hg1 #hh ,withy for ,rustic ,mosaic ,work1 #add ,wood ,bending with ,spanish ,windlass1 #bb ---- for ,rustic ,work1 #i ,yelvens in ,thatching1 #adh ,,printed ,,by ,,cassell ,,and ,,company1 ,,ltd41 ,,ludgate ,,hill1 ,,london1 ,e4,c4