,transcriber's ,note4 ,in the section ,,sand ,,wheel--,,plate #ba1 third paragraph1 the word on was added as the most likely word to correct a typographical omission and drawn changed to draw4 ,otherwise only a very few minor typographical errors have been corrected4 ,illustration3 ,,testing ,,the ,,kite-,,string ,,sailboat ,,manual ,,training ,,toys for ,,the ,,boy',s ,,workshop ,by ,,harris ,w4 ,,moore ,,supervisor ,,of ,,manual ,,training ,,watertown1 ,,massachusetts ,illustration ,,the ,,manual ,,arts ,,press ,,peoria1 ,,illinois ,,dedicated ,,to ,,the ,,boy ,,who ,,likes ,,to ,,tinker ',,round ,copyright1 #aiab ,,harris ,w4 ,,moore ,,contents4 ,frontispiece ,testing the ,kite-string ,sailboat ,introduction-- ,,page4 ,bench1 ,marking ,tools #g ,saws #h ,planes1 ,bits1 ,nails #i ,screws1 ,glue #aj ,sandpaper1 ,dowels1 ,drills1 ,sharpening #aa ,holding ,work #ab ,directions for ,planing #ac ,dart #af ,spool ,dart #ah ,dart for ,whip-,bow #ai ,buzzer #bj ,flying ,top 7,plate #c7 #bb ,flying ,top 7,plate #d7 #bd ,top #bf ,tom-,tom ,drum #bh ,pop-gun #cj ,whistle #cb ,arrow #cc ,bow #cd ,sword #cf ,magic ,box #ch ,pencil-,box #da ,telephone #db ,happy ,jack ,windmill #dd ,gloucester ,happy ,jack ,windmill #df ,paddling ,indian ,windmill #dh ,kite #ej ,tailless ,kite #ec ,box ,kite #ed ,kite-,string ,sailboat #ef ,the ,hygroscope or ,weather ,cottage #ei ,electrophorus #fb ,waterwheel #fd ,water ,motor #fg ,sand ,wheel #gj ,running ,wheel #gc ,rattle #gf ,cart #gh ,cannon #ha ,automobile #hd ,bow ,pistol #hf ,elastic ,gun #hh ,rattle-,bang ,gun #ib ,boat #ie ,pile-,driver #ih ,windmill #ajj ,kite-,string ,reel #ajc ,string ,machine #ajf ,windmill ,force-,pump #ajh ,,introduction4 ,the wise man learns from the experience of others4 ,that is the reason for this introduction--to tell the boy who wants to make the toys described in this book some of the tricks of the trade4 ,it is supposed1 however1 that he has had some instruction in the use of tools4 ,this book is written after long experience in teaching boys1 and because of that experience1 the author desires to urge upon his younger readers two bits of advice3 ,first1 study the drawing carefully1--every line has a meaning2 second1 printed directions become clearer by actually taking the tool in hand and beginning to do the work described4 ,,bench4 ,if he buys the vise-screw1 an ambitious boy can make a bench that will answer his needs1 provided1 also1 that he can fasten it to floor or wall4 ,it should be rigid4 ,a beginner will find a hard wood board1 #ajba_/d1 fastened to the forward end of the bench1 a more convenient stop than the ordinary bench-dog4 ,if he has a nicely finished bench1 he should learn to work without injuring the bench4 ,a cutting board should always be at hand to chisel and pound upon and to save the bench-top from all ill use4 ,the bench-hook should have one side for sawing and one for planing1 the former having a block shorter than the width of the board so that the teeth of the saw1 when they come thru the work1 will strike the bench-hook rather than the bench-top4 ,,marking ,,tools4 ,to measure accurately1 hold the ruler on its edge so that the divisions on the scale come close to the thing measured4 ,let the pencil or knife point make a dash on the thing measured which would exactly continue the division line on the ruler4 ,if it can be avoided1 never use the end of the ruler2 learn to measure from some figure on the ruler4 ,the spur of the gage should be filed like a knife point4 ,it seldom stands at zero of the scale1 hence1 when setting the gage for accurate work1 measure from the block to the spur with a ruler4 ,the gage is a rather difficult tool for a boy to use but it will pay to master it4 ,it may be used wherever square edges are to be made1 but chamfers and bevels should be marked with a pencil4 ,in laying out work1 the beam 7the thick part7 of the trysquare should always be kept on either the working-face or the working-edge4 7,see page #ac1 ,directions for ,planing47 ,let the blade rest flat on any surface4 ,hold the trysquare snugly to the work with the fingers and thumb acting much like a bird's claw4 ,for accurate work 7e4 g4 joints71 lines should be drawn 7scored7 with the sharp point of a small knife blade1 held nearly straight up from the edge of the trysquare blade4 ,circles are located by two lines crossing at the center4 ,,saws4 ,the teeth of a rip-saw are like so many little chisels set in a row2 they pare the wood away4 ,the teeth of a crosscut-saw are like knife points1 they score two lines1 and the wood breaks off between them4 ,large sawing should be done on a saw-horse so that the worker is over his work4 ,if it is necessary to hold work in the vise to rip it1 hold it slanting1 so that the handle of the saw leads the line1 as it naturally does when the work is on a saw-horse4 ,the back-saw1 tho a crosscut-saw1 may be used in any direction of the grain4 ,any saw should be in motion when it touches the wood it is to cut4 ,to guide it to the right place1 a workman lets his thumb touch the saw just above the teeth1 the hand resting firmly on the wood4 ,a little notch1 cut in the edge right to the line where the saw is to cut1 will help a beginner to start accurately4 ,saws are rapid tools1 and it pays to go slowly enough with them to do accurate work4 ,plan the work so as to make as few cuts as possible4 ,turning-saws are best used so that the cutting is done on the pull stroke1 keeping the two hands near together4 ,when one handle is turned1 the other must be turned equally4 ,,planes4 ,generally being in a hurry to get work done1 boys are apt to take big shavings with a plane4 ,this results in rough work4 ,fine shavings are better4 ,if the plane is allowed to rest level on the work1 it will find the high places without continual adjusting4 ,the first two inches of a stroke are the hardest to plane2 to plane these1 press harder on the forward end of the plane4 ,start the plane level4 ,usually it is best to keep the plane straight1 or nearly so1 in the direction of the push4 ,the block-plane is properly used to plane the end of wood4 7,see page #ab on ,holding ,work47 ,on other small surfaces1 however1 it is often more convenient than a large plane4 ,,bits4 ,auger-bits are numbered by the number of sixteenths in the diameter of the hole they bore1 e4 g4 ,no4 #d bores a #d_/af hole4 ,gimlet-bits are numbered by thirty-seconds4 ,whenever boring with an auger-bit1 stop as soon as the spur pricks thru the other side1 turn the work over1 start the spur in the little hole it made1 and finish boring4 ,it will always split the wood1 if the bit is allowed to go way thru4 ,it is difficult to bore a hole straight thru a piece of wood1 because to tell whether the bit is held straight when starting the hole1 one must look at it from two directions4 ,if someone else can stand a quarter circle away from the worker and watch the bit1 that is the best help2 otherwise1 the worker himself must hold the brace steady while he walks around a quarter circle and judges whether the bit is straight4 ,care should be taken to hold the work level in the vise4 ,,nails4 ,the words1 nail1 brad1 and nailing are used somewhat interchangeably in this book2 nailing may mean driving a brad4 ,brads have smaller1 thicker heads1 nails have larger1 flat heads4 ,to drive a nail straight1 start it straight4 ,the hole cannot be straightened by bending the nail so that it looks straight after it is partly driven4 ,many gentle blows with the hammer will often drive a nail where heavy blows would fail4 ,the fingers pinching the nail often prevent its bending4 ,if possible1 keep nails away from the corners of boards4 ,several nails joining two boards hold them stronger if the nails are driven at different angles4 ,nails are usually set1 that is1 the heads are driven with a nail-set below the surface4 ,they must always be set below surfaces which are to be planed4 ,it is often wise not to drive the first nail or two way in until the work is examined4 ,in withdrawing nails1 a block under the hammer will often aid greatly1 and also protect the surface of the work4 ,,screws4 ,screws usually need holes properly bored to receive them2 a large hole first1 the size of the screw above the threads1 a small hole next1 the size at the roots of the threads 7in hard wood somewhat larger71 and a place for the head made with a countersink4 ,usually the screw should slip easily thru the first piece of wood and be tight in the second4 ,the screwdriver should always be held in the line that the screw is going1 and it ought fairly to fit the slot in the head4 ,in hard wood1 one must be careful not to twist screws off1 especially brass screws1 which are easily broken4 ,,glue4 ,a beginner often wonders why things stick to his fingers instead of to their proper places2 it is because he has a little glue on his fingers and usually a lot on the article2 therefore1 don't use too much glue4 ,it is best1 especially in holes and their pegs1 to put glue on both surfaces of contact4 ,good glue will hold two surfaces1 making good contact1 stronger than the wood4 ,wipe off excess glue as soon as possible1 using hot water for hot glue4 ,much labor is thus saved4 ,allow glue plenty of time to become dry4 ,the moisture has to work its way thru the wood itself1 and this takes hours2 six to ten hours is not too long4 ,,sandpaper4 ,sandpaper varies in coarseness from ,no4 #jj to ,no4 #c1 every sheet being stamped4 ,it should not be used on a given piece until all work with edge tools is finished4 ,the particles of sand left in the surface would quickly dull an edge tool4 ,when using sandpaper on flat surfaces1 wrap it closely about a rectangular block of wood4 ,try to keep all corners as sharp as they are left by the edge tools so that there will be a crispness of appearance which always marks good workmanship4 ,often the same care in holding work while sandpapering it must be taken as was taken when shaping it4 ,always sandpaper with1 or lengthwise the grain4 ,,dowels4 ,sticks that are planed nearly to size can be made round and smooth by driving them thru a hole in a block of hard wood or iron2 such sticks are called dowels4 ,two holes may be used if the second is only a little smaller than the first4 ,drive gently with a mallet rather than with a hammer4 ,in many of the models in this book such dowels are used4 ,dowels 7made by a different process1 however17 can often be bought at hardware stores4 ,,drills4 ,for ease in making small holes1 a hand-drill is essential4 ,for some holes a headless nail will answer4 ,to make better drills1 break a needle1 a knitting-needle1 umbrella rib1 or other piece of hard wire to suitable length2 on a grindstone1 flatten it near the point on two sides2 then1 putting it in the chuck of the hand-drill1 try to hold it on the grindstone at the proper angle to form the two cutting edges2 or it may be held against the edge of the bench and sharpened with an oilstone resting on top of the bench4 ,very convenient long drills can be thus made of knitting-needles4 ,,sharpening4 ,to work with dull tools is altogether unsatisfactory4 ,a boy should learn to sharpen his own edge tools4 ,to grind a good bevel on a tool like a chisel1 it must rest upon something steady4 ,the reflection of light on the newly ground surface will indicate whether the surface is flat or not4 ,this process of grinding makes what is called a feather-edge1 or wire-edge1 and the tool must be whetted on an oilstone to remove this wire-edge4 ,the flat side must be kept flat on the stone2 the bevel may be lifted just a trifle4 ,when whetting the bevel1 try to avoid a rocking motion1 for this would round the edge4 ,after the wire-edge is completely removed1 a still keener edge can be obtained by stropping the tool on a piece of leather1 much as a razor is stropped4 ,a piece of leather glued to a wooden mount and sprinkled occasionally with the finest emery powder will help much in keeping the edge tools keen4 ,,holding ,,work4 ,the way work is held in the vise often makes the difference between success and failure4 ,small surfaces are easily planed true if held almost flush with the jaws of the vise so that the top of the bench serves to guide the plane2 for example1 the wheel-center1 page #bj1 or the crank1 ,plate #cc1 are easily planed in this manner4 ,sometimes articles1 like spools1 can be held endwise with safety when they might be crushed if squeezed sidewise4 ,a good way to hold the paddles of the sand wheel1 ,plate #ba1 ,fig4 #d1 to saw the lines ,a ,b is to put the paddles about half-way down the end of the vise so that the back-saw can be held near the end of the vise jaws4 ,the bench-hook is the best device for holding a great deal of small work for sawing and for planing sides1 corners1 and ends4 ,when planing ends1 to avoid splitting the far corner1 another piece of equal thickness may be put behind the first4 ,the better way1 however1 is never to plane over the far corner1 but turn the work and plane always towards the center2 in other words1 plane half way from each edge4 ,where a corner can be whittled off to form a buttress1 there is practically no danger of splitting that corner4 ,for planing thin boards1 see page #ai4 ,,directions ,,for ,,planing4 #a4 ,plane one broad surface4 ,test it crosswise1 lengthwise1 and cornerwise4 ,this surface is called the working-face1 and should be marked with a pencil line near the edge to be planed next4 ,on a short board the cornerwise test can be made with a straight-edge2 on a long board winding-sticks are needed4 ,these are straight sticks with parallel edges4 ,near the ends of the board1 stand them on edge across the board4 ,with the eye some distance away1 sight from one stick to the other1 if one end of the farther stick seems elevated1 that corner of the board must be planed more4 #b4 ,plane one edge4 ,test it crosswise with the trysquare on the working-face1 and lengthwise with a straight-edge4 ,this is called the working-edge4 ,mark it with two pencil lines1 drawn near the line on the working-face4 ,these two surfaces are of great importance4 ,from them all measurements are made and all tests applied4 ,the trysquare and the gage should always be kept on one of these two surfaces4 #c4 ,square the ends4 ,with the trysquare1 test them from both the working-face and the working-edge4 #d4 ,gage the width from the working-edge4 ,plane to the line4 ,with the trysquare on the working-face1 test this edge4 #e4 ,gage the thickness from the working-face4 ,plane to the line4 ,sometimes1 of course1 the above order needs to be changed4 ,it is well to think out the best order of work4 ,,problems ,,plates ,,and ,,working ,,directions ,,dart--,,plate #a4 ,a dart like the first one shown on ,plate #a will stick into a soft wooden target4 ,two or more boys1 each with three darts1 might have a contest in making the highest score4 ,number three rings of a target #e1 #aj1 and #ae1 and the bull's eye #be4 ,the dart consists of two parts1 a round stick and a paper rudder4 ,to make the round stick1 #g long #a_/d diameter1 it will be well to start with a stick about #i long so as to be able to hold it easily while planing it round4 ,first plane the stick square1 #a_/d1 and straight4 ,to plane such a small stick straight1 it should be laid on the top of the bench4 ,while planing it1 test it frequently by looking at it endwise4 ,when it is the right size1 grasp one end with the left hand1 lay it on the bench with the forefinger touching the bench1 and1 with a small plane1 plane away the corners so as to make a true octagonal 7eight sided7 stick4 ,next make it sixteen sided1 taking very fine shavings1 then sandpaper it well4 ,saw off the extra length1 leaving the best part of the stick #g long4 ,bind one end with fine 7screen7 wire4 ,to bind it well1 make a square corner #a from one end of the wire and lay this #a lengthwise the stick4 ,hold it firmly with the left thumb while winding the long part of the wire smoothly around the stick and wire4 ,twist the two ends together1 and cut off what is not needed4 ,gently pound down smooth the end of the wire that is left4 ,in this end of the stick1 drill a hole for a #a brad4 ,file the head entirely off1 and drive the brad in backwards1 leaving #c_/af out2 then file the point real sharp4 ,carefully split the other end of the stick #a4 ,to do this1 stand it upright in the vise1 place a knife on the end1 and tap the knife with a hammer4 ,into this split1 insert the paper rudder bent as shown in ,plate #a4 ,the rudder should be cut the shape and size shown in the working drawing and then bent into shape4 ,illustration3 ,,dart ,,spool ,,dart ,,dart ,,for ,,whip-,,bow ,,plate #a ,,spool ,,dart--,,plate #a4 ,an easier dart to throw can be made of a spool as shown on ,plate #a4 ,three feathers which curve the same way will give the dart a whirling motion when it is thrown4 ,make a stick about #g long to fit tightly into the hole of a spool about #a in diameter at its end4 7,see ,dowels1 page #aa1 also ,glue1 page #aj47 ,a stick like this can be forced into a hole quite far by screwing it around1 but if it is driven much with a hammer the spool will split easily4 ,after the stick is glued into the spool1 hold the spool upright on the jaws of the vise1 and squeeze the stick extending below2 then with the back-saw make four slanting cuts to sharpen the spool4 ,file a #b-a_/d nail square off1 #a long2 drive it backwards into a suitable hole drilled for it in the center of the spool2 and sharpen it well with a file4 ,one-half inch from the other end of the spool saw the stick off1 and drill three holes in the spool end1 into which glue three feathers about #d long4 ,,dart ,,for ,,whip-,,bow--,,plate #a4 ,this dart is best made of a shingle4 ,lacking that1 plane a #a_/b board thin#a at one end to #a_/h4 ,draw the center line lengthwise and lay out the shape of the dart with the broad part at the thin end4 ,saw crosswise from each edge of the shingle to the place where the curve begins1 then lengthwise to that point4 ,holding the thin end in the vise1 pare the curves with a knife1 spokeshave1 or draw-knife4 ,make the point at each end with a plane4 ,to plane to slanting lines such as these1 it is very important to place the work in the vise at such a slant that the line is parallel with the top of the bench and quite close to the jaws of the vise4 ,find the point where the dart balances by testing it on the finger1 and make the little notch for the string1 using a back-saw first1 then a knife4 ,a whip-bow consists of a string #bj long tied to the end of a stick #bj long4 ,a knot is tied at the free end of the string4 ,to throw the dart1 catch the string in the notch1 hold the wide end of the dart in the left hand and the stick in the right1 throw the right hand forward1 and let the dart fly from the string4 ,footnote #a3 ,to hold a board while planing it very thin1 fasten it to another flat board with four wooden pegs4 ,for several of the models in this book1 a flat board about #i #d #g_/h with a cleat nailed to one end and extending #a_/h above its upper surface will be found most convenient for holding thin boards while planing4 ,if the cleat is a little wider than the height of the block on the bench-hook1 the bench-hook serves well to hold it4 ,,buzzer--,,plate #b4 ,the buzzer consists of a wheel and two handles1 connected with string4 ,to make the wheel draw a #c circle on a piece of wood #c_/af thick4 ,draw a line thru the center the way the grain goes and another at right angles to it1 thus dividing the circle into quarters1 ,fig4 #a4 ,notice1 now1 that to avoid splitting the circle1 the four quarters must each be cut in a different direction4 ,lay the model flat on the bench-hook and saw off the corners of the square4 ,now1 holding it in the vise with one quarter up1 with the spokeshave1 pare the corners in the direction of the arrow in this quarter until the circle is reached4 ,be careful not to pare away any part of the line4 ,it will be observed that paring can be done safely on the end grain beyond the arrow-head in this quarter1 but this is not at all possible on the side grain where the arrow begins4 ,the spokeshave should be held rather lightly so as to allow it to follow the curve4 ,observing carefully the direction of the arrows1 proceed with the other quarters in this same manner4 ,the last few chips should be very fine ones4 ,drill two small holes for the string #a_/d each side of the center4 ,sandpaper the model nicely4 7,see ,sandpaper1 page #aa47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a ,the two handles can be planed best if held in the bench-hook and the plane turned with its side on the top of the bench4 ,after the corners are planed in this way1 the ends can be planed without danger of splitting4 ,drill the holes for the string4 ,the edges and ends of the handles will look better not sandpapered4 ,string the model by passing one end of a #c ft4 string thru a hole in one handle1 then in the wheel1 then in the other handle1 then back thru the other holes1 tying it to the other end of the string4 ,to make it go1 take one handle in each hand1 swing the wheel over and over1 and gently pull the handles apart for an instant4 ,a little practice may be necessary to make it go well4 ,to make it buzz louder1 bore two #e_/af holes on opposite parts of the wheel #a_/b from the rim4 7,see ,bits1 page #i47 ,to avoid splitting1 bore backwards till the bit marks a deep circle in the wood4 ,illustration3 ,,buzzer ,,plate #b ,,flying ,,top--,,plate #c4 ,like anything that flies1 this top should be made as light as possible4 ,bass1 cotton-wood1 or soft pine are good woods to use4 ,after the wood for the top is planed to size1 a #c_/af hole should be bored straight thru the center4 7,see ,bits1 page #i47 ,make the drawing on the top and whittle to line4 ,considerable care must be taken in whittling not to whittle away the two corners which should be saved2 this is especially true if the grain is not straight4 ,see page #af for suggestions about making the handle4 ,glue the handle in the top4 ,to make it fly1 hold it between the two hands1 and push the right one quickly4 7,see ,plate #c47 ,illustration3 ,,flying ,,top ,,plate #c ,,flying ,,top--,,plate #d4 ,this form of flying top requires accurate work to make a good joint4 7,see ,directions for ,planing1 page #ac47 ,after planing the two vanes to size1 the joint must be laid out with knife and gage lines and cut out with back-saw and chisel4 ,two important facts should be learned3 ,the length of one notch equals the width of the other piece2 the lines marking the depth of the notches must be gaged from the working-face of each piece4 ,after the joint is laid out1 hold the work in the bench-hook while sawing the depth of the notch1 and be sure to saw in the notch1 not outside the line4 ,with a chisel held flat side down1 pare between the saw cuts from each side of the wood towards the middle4 ,when the joint is fitted1 lay out the curves on each arm of the wheel1 remembering that it is always the front corner of the right-hand arm1 as the wheel turns around1 that is to be whittled away4 ,when all these curves are drawn1 take the joint apart1 and whittle to the lines4 ,glue the joint next1 and bore a #c_/af hole straight thru its center4 ,make the axle of hard wood4 7,see page #af and ,dowels1 page #aa47 ,perhaps a skewer can be used4 ,after the handle is planed to size1 draw pencil lines #a_/d from each edge for the chamfers4 ,the curve of the chamfer may be drawn freehand4 ,it should end #a-a_/af from one end of the handle4 ,a good chamfer is flat crosswise4 ,if the grain of the wood is straight1 the chamfers can be whittled easily2 if it is crooked watch that it does not split over the line4 ,after the chamfers are made1 pare another one #a_/h wide around the end of the handle4 ,after the two blocks are planed1 bore a #a_/d hole #c_/h from one end4 ,glue and nail them #a on the handle4 ,illustration3 ,,flying ,,top ,,plate #d ,,top--,,plate #e4 ,a variety of sizes1 shapes and colors of tops1 spinning on a plate1 is a lively sight4 ,the one suggested is perhaps as large as it should be made for such sport4 ,smaller ones are easily made of spools without making a disk1 or wheel1 for them4 ,the more slender the spindle is1 the faster one can spin the top4 ,first make a stick about #f long to fit the hole in the spool4 ,plane #a of it tapering as small as #a_/h1 then glue the spool on #a-a_/d below this small end4 ,now hold the spool in the vise endwise1 and make1 with the back-saw1 a saw cut half thru the spool on the same slant as the slanting part of the spool2 then saw straight down to the end of this slanting cut4 ,turn the spool nearly over and repeat this operation2 then saw it completely off1 and whittle the spool to a good point4 ,draw a #b circle on a piece of wood #a_/d thick4 ,draw other circles just as desired for coloring4 ,observe the directions on page #bj for making a wheel4 ,when the wheel is round1 bore a #e_/af hole in its center1 sandpaper it1 and glue it in place on the spool and spindle4 ,it can be colored with crayons or water colors4 ,illustration3 ,,top ,,plate #e ,,tom-,,tom ,,drum--,,plate #f4 ,as in a violin1 the sounding qualities of this drum depend upon the quality of the wood used and the thickness of the sounding-board4 ,spruce is a good wood to use1 though the drumstick may well be harder4 ,a good way to make two pieces the same length and thickness is to plane one piece1 which is wider than the two pieces combined1 to the right length and thickness1 and then saw it in two lengthwise2 so1 to make the top and between pieces it will be best to start with one piece about #f #g_/h #e_/af4 ,if no wood #a_/h thick for the sounding-boards is at hand1 plane a thicker piece nicely on all surfaces #c #b #e_/af4 ,then gage a line #a_/h from each broad surface all around the piece and saw between these lines4 ,to plane these two pieces1 lay them on the board described in the foot-note on page #ai4 ,glue and nail the parts together with very small brads1 or pins cut off #a_/b4 ,allow the glue to dry six to ten hours before twisting the drumstick in the strings4 ,cut a small notch near the ends of the top pieces in which to wind two or three strands of string4 ,twist the drumstick in the opposite way from which it should strike the sounding-board4 ,to play it1 hold it in the left hand1 and let the fingers of the right hand slide over the end of the drumstick1 thus making the drumstick strike the sounding-board4 ,illustration3 ,,tom-,,tom ,,drum ,,plate #f ,,pop-,,gun--,,plate #g4 ,the part of this model difficult to make is a nice1 smooth hole4 ,the surest way is to start with a thick piece of wood for the barrel1 #f #a-a_/d #a-a_/d4 ,draw a #g_/h circle on one end2 then bore the #g_/af hole as straight as possible1 starting at the center of the circle4 ,stop boring as soon as the spur of the bit pricks thru the other end1 and draw another #g_/h circle1 setting the needle-point of the compass in the tiny hole made by the spur2 then finish boring4 ,next plane the piece round the size of the circles4 ,the ramrod should be made as directed on page #af4 ,the hole should now be sandpapered by wrapping a long1 narrow piece of sandpaper snugly about the ramrod1 and tying it securely at each end with string4 ,make the handle1 being careful to bore the hole straight #a deep1 and glue the ramrod into it4 ,cut off #c_/h of that part of a cork which fits tightly in the barrel4 ,drive a slender nail or brad thru a piece of hard leather 7or zinc or copper7 and trim it round #a_/d diameter4 ,drill a small hole exactly in the center of the end of the ramrod1 then drive the nail thru the center of the cork and into the ramrod4 ,to make the hole in the barrel still better1 let a few drippings from a candle fall into it and quickly insert the ramrod and push it back and forth rapidly4 ,a sudden push of the ramrod will blow the other cork out with a loud pop4 ,to keep this cork1 tie one end of a string around it and the other end around the barrel4 ,illustration3 ,,pop ,,gun ,,whistle ,,plate #g ,,whistle--,,plate #g4 ,the size of the chamber1 of the notch1 of the inlet for air1 the force with which air is blown in1--these are some of the conditions which affect the tone of a whistle4 ,plane a piece of close-grained wood #f #c_/d #c_/d4 ,this length is suggested so that two trials at boring can be made4 ,bore a #a_/b hole #b-a_/d deep4 ,to help in boring this straight1 clamp a straight-edge 7the ruler may do7 in the vise together with the square stick4 ,have one edge of the straight-edge on the center of one side of the stick4 ,after boring a straight hole1 draw pencil lines #c_/af from the long edges on all four sides4 ,a good way to draw such lines is to rest the middle finger-nail on a side of the stick as a guide and hold the pencil closely over this nail while sliding it along4 ,the hand must be held rather rigid4 ,practice will enable one to draw lines quite accurately this way4 ,place the stick in the vise so that one edge is straight up1 and plane the corner off to the line4 ,plane all four corners so as to make a good octagonal stick4 ,make a dowel 7see page #aa7 about #a-a_/b long to fit nicely in the hole4 ,do not crowd it so hard as to split the whistle4 ,it might well be fitted first in a #a_/b hole bored in a waste piece of wood4 ,plane off a side of this dowel till a flat place is made #c_/h wide4 ,push the dowel into the whistle and saw the straight end of the notch about #c_/af deep4 ,pare the rest of the notch with knife or chisel1 testing the whistle by blowing it occasionally as the paring proceeds4 ,when it sounds best1 glue the dowel in place and allow it to dry before sawing it off and cutting the slanting part4 ,when this is done saw the whistle to a length of #b-a_/b4 ,if a rolling sound is desired1 put in a pea before gluing the dowel in place4 ,,arrow--,,plate #h4 ,the old saying1 ,straight as an arrow1 suggests an arrow's most important quality3 it must be straight4 ,saw a strip #bj #a_/b from the edge of a straight-grained spruce board and plane it according to directions on page #af4 ,to make the notch for the bowstring1 first file a notch in the smaller end1 then saw it #a_/d deep1 and smooth it with the folded edge of a piece of sandpaper4 ,bind the larger end tightly with rather small1 soft wire4 7,see page #af47 ,pigeon feathers are easiest to use because the quills are soft and straight4 ,turkey and goose feathers are good1 and hen feathers will do if they are nearly straight4 ,the quill should be split with the point of a small1 sharp knife1 the feather being held on a cutting board4 ,about #c of quill are needed4 ,with scissors1 trim the feather about #e_/af wide2 then glue and pin it in place #a-a_/d from the smaller end of the arrow4 ,indians use three feathers1 but two will do for a boy4 ,when the feathers are in place1 the ends of the quills must be bound very smoothly and tightly with thread4 ,notice the position of the feathers in ,plate #h3 the bottom feather on the arrow having three feathers is called the cock-feather and should be of a different color from the other two4 ,it is always placed on the bowstring away from the bow4 ,,bow--,,plate #h4 ,almost any tough stick that will bend to a good curve will answer for a bow1 but white ash such as is used in hoe- and rake-handles is probably best and easiest to get4 ,a brittle wood like hemlock can be used1 if used with great care2 indeed1 some ,eskimos1 who can get only dry1 brittle driftwood1 still make a splendid bow by wrapping it completely with sinew4 ,the bow should be shorter than the archer4 ,plane each end tapering1 first on the bottom1 then on the two edges4 ,leave #f in the middle straight for a handle4 ,notice the shape1 ,plate #h1 of the three steps in the planing of the bow4 ,be especially careful to get the second step right1 then the third will come easily4 ,file notches near each end somewhat the shape of the loop on the bowstring4 ,before the bow can be finished1 it must be strung and pulled a little to test it1--to see if both ends bend the same good curve1--not the curve of a circle1 but that of the broad side of an ellipse4 ,the ends should curve more than the middle4 ,when it bends true1 smooth it well with a coarse file1 or glass1 and sandpaper4 ,do not be tempted to pull the bow too far and so break it2 one that bends easily is less apt to break than one that is too strong4 ,when the bow is strung1 the center of it and of the bowstring should be marked with thread or color4 ,a piece of strong fish-line makes a good bowstring4 ,a good one can be made of linen thread on the string machine shown on ,plate #cd4 ,tie knots as shown in ,fig4 #b4 ,the timber-hitch should be kept in place on the bow1 and the bowline-knot slipped back on the bow when it is unstrung4 ,the best way to string a bow is to place the end having the timber-hitch on the ground against one's left foot1 then to pull the middle of the bow with the left hand1 and to push the upper part with the right hand1 allowing this hand to slide upward so as to shove the bowline-knot into the upper notch4 ,when finished the bow can be improved by rubbing it well with grease4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b ,timber-hitch knot and ,bowline-knot ,illustration3 ,,arrow ,,bow ,,plate #h ,,sword--,,plate #i4 ,plane the blade to size1 then draw a center line on each side1 and lay out the curves for the point and handle4 ,shape these ends with the draw-knife1 spokeshave1 or block-plane4 ,now measure #e for the handle1 and draw a line along the center of each edge to mark the cutting edges of the sword4 ,a workman would do this with his pencil resting over his finger-nail as mentioned on page #cb4 ,use the spokeshave to pare off the four corners 7to sharpen the sword71 and finish them with a plane4 ,try to take broad1 flat chips so as to make the blade a good diamond shape4 ,where the blade and handle meet a good square shoulder must be made4 ,a boy can do this best1 perhaps1 with a wide1 flat file1 though a workman would use a back-saw and chisel4 ,saw out the guard #e #c #a_/b2 then draw the diamond #a-a_/b long and #a_/b wide4 ,it is not easy for a boy to cut this out1 so be careful and guard against splitting the board4 ,first drill small holes at each end of the diamond1 then bore other holes as large as will go within the diamond1 ,plate #i4 ,with a thin chisel pare straight thru the board onto a cutting board4 ,when the diamond will fit the blade1 draw the shape of the guard freehand and pare the edges as explained for the buzzer on page #bj4 ,sandpaper both parts of the sword1 and fasten the guard with glue and two #b brads1 driven from each edge of the guard in holes drilled for the purpose4 ,illustration3 ,,sword ,,plate #i ,,magic ,,box--,,plate #aj4 ,this is truly a magic box to those who do not understand how it works4 ,who would ever think that these little bits of people would hop up and down inside their house just because their window was rubbed with a piece of leather8 ,try it and see how excited they get4 ,if the worker can cut glass1 make the box first1 otherwise he must get a piece of glass #e-a_/b #c and build the box to fit it4 ,it requires careful work to make a good box1 so be sure that all ends and edges are square and that corresponding parts are the same size before nailing it together4 ,plane all such small boards in the bench-hook4 ,make the ends first #a wide and as long as the glass is wide4 ,make the sides the same width and as long as the glass1 plus the thickness of the two ends4 ,glue and nail these to the ends1 keeping the bottom edges flush4 ,set all nails with a nail-set4 ,one edge and one end only of the bottom should now be planed square1 the other edge and end being left to plane after the bottom is nailed in place4 ,cut a piece of tin #a_/af smaller than the glass1 or glue some tinfoil on the inside of the bottom4 ,if tinfoil is to be used1 smooth it on a piece of paper carefully with the fingers2 then spread some glue thinly over the bottom1 and lay the tinfoil on it4 ,the squared edge and end of the bottom are to be nailed first1 having them fit nicely2 then the other edge and end4 ,never drive a nail too near the corner of the bottom lest it strike the nails driven thru the sides of the box4 ,now plane the end and then the side of the bottom to fit4 ,if tin is used instead of tinfoil put it inside the box after the bottom has been nailed in place4 ,make the two supports fit inside the box lengthwise and just wide enough to hold the top of the glass flush with the top edges of the box4 ,to hold the supports1 drive nails thru the ends of the box into them4 ,illustration3 ,,magic ,,box ,,pencil ,,box ,,plate #aj ,everything about electrical apparatus should be clean and dry1 so1 as this is really an electric box1 have the glass and tin clean before using it4 ,put some bits of charcoal1 paper1 straw1 or sawdust into the box1 have it warm and dry1 rub the glass with a piece of leather 7glove1 shoe71 and then see how the little people jump6 ,the explanation is as follows3 ,rubbing glass with leather1 fur1 woolen1 or silk generates electricity2 this electricity attracts non-electrified bodies1 thus lifting the little people to the glass2 as soon as they become charged with the electricity on the glass1 they are repelled and thrown down to the tin2 the tin conducts their charge of electricity away1 and they are ready to begin their circus over again4 ,,pencil-,,box--,,plate #aj4 ,to make this box1 saw out one long piece for the sides and ends1 #bb #a-g_/h #a_/d1 or two shorter pieces1 #ab #a-g_/h #a_/d4 ,the reason for having them so long is because it is difficult to make the groove nicely to the end of the board2 and they are wide enough to try twice to make the groove4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c ,file a nail 7about #c_/cb in diameter7 sharp like a chisel1 and drive it tightly into a small hole1 drilled in a block of wood which has one corner rabbeted1 that is1 sawed away as shown in ,fig4 #c4 ,the outside of the nail1 measured from the shoulder of the rabbet1 must be exactly #a_/d away1 so that the lower edge of the groove will be #a_/d from the top of the box4 ,practice with this tool till a good groove can be made in waste lumber1 then make the groove along one edge of the board4 ,when well done1 plane the board #a-c_/h wide1 and saw it to the proper lengths for sides and ends4 ,in the front end there is no groove1 so plane it away from one piece just sawed4 ,sandpaper the flat sides before gluing and nailing them together4 ,prepare the bottom as directed for the magic box1 page #ch1 then sandpaper1 glue and nail it in place4 ,set all nails4 ,plane the bottom to fit4 ,prepare the cover somewhat too long but exactly the width between the grooves4 ,as in making the whistle1 page #cb1 so here draw pencil lines for the bevel #c_/h wide on the cover4 ,practice planing a bevel on waste wood first4 ,the bevel at the further end of the cover can be planed by holding the cover upright in the vise4 ,when it slides smoothly in the grooves1 saw it the right length4 ,for the notch1 make a deep cut with a gouge1 and cut the chip straight across with knife point or small chisel4 ,hold it in the bench-hook while doing this4 ,,telephone--,,plate #aa4 ,in these days when even boys are using wireless telegraphy1 this may seem a humble telephone1 but it is a surprisingly good one1 and it is very easily made and operated4 ,the drum should be hard and tight1 the string should be a small1 hard cord 7tho the common pink cord thoroly waxed with paraffin will do71 and the cord should be supported by nothing but the drums when the telephone is being used4 ,after preparing the eight sides1 observe in ,plate #aa1 the method of nailing four boards of equal width together to form a square1--each one is nailed to another one4 ,the ends of the boxes should be well rounded with sandpaper before the drum is stretched over them4 ,the best material for the drum is rawhide1--the dried skin of an animal4 ,the skin of a small animal like the cat1 rabbit1 or woodchuck is best4 ,country boys will not have much difficulty in securing such rawhide1 but city boys may4 ,to remove the hair1 or fur1 from a skin1 slack a lump of lime as large as a hen's egg in a basin of water and soak the skin in it until the hair can be pulled off readily 7usually a few minutes72 then thoroly wash the skin1 stretch it over one end of a box1 and tack it every #c_/h with #b oz4 tacks4 ,when thoroly dry it will be tight as a drum and ready to use4 ,a good drum can also be made of an old 7dressed7 kid glove or shoe4 ,soak a piece #d sq4 in water a few minutes then stretch it while still wet1 tightly over the box4 ,when dry1 coat it on both sides with melted paraffin4 ,fasten the cord to the drum simply by a knot on the inside4 ,if common pink cord is used1 drive the paraffin in with a hot flat-iron4 ,to use the telephone1 a boy at each end of the line holds his box so that the string will not touch anything1 then one talks into his box while the other listens in his4 ,the telephone may be stretched from one house to another if the houses are within several hundred feet of each other and have a free space between4 ,if two telephones were provided1 a person could talk and listen at the same time4 ,illustration3 ,,telephone ,,plate #aa ,,happy ,,jack ,,windmill--,,plate #ab4 ,on a windy day ,happy ,jack will be a whole circus out on the clothes-line post4 ,if he can be painted in bright colors so much the better1 otherwise he should be decorated with colored pencils4 ,the body is drawn on a board1 #i #b #a_/b1 by measuring all the figures from the hat down1 and at these points drawing lines square across the board2 also1 draw a center-line from head to heel4 ,the toes and hat rim split easily1 so be careful of these parts4 ,if no scroll-saw is at hand1 saw every #c_/h with the back-saw straight across from the edge of the board to the outline of the body2 then pare these little pieces away with a knife or chisel4 ,the curves at the neck are best made with a ,no4 #f bit before sawing4 ,the curves may be finished with half-round file or sandpaper4 ,take great care in boring the hole up the legs and across the shoulders2 if a hole is started crooked1 glue in a dowel of the same wood 7see ,dowels1 page #aa71 let it dry1 and then try again4 ,use a straight-edge as a guide1 as for the whistle1 page #cb4 ,a ,no4 #c bit is used thru the shoulders1 and a ,no4 #d bit up the legs4 ,to make the arms1 use a #a_/b hard wood dowel #f long4 ,bore #a_/d holes for the vanes #a_/b each side the center of the dowel and file the wrists1 before sawing it in two4 ,round the ends some with sandpaper4 ,flatten the #d wire which goes thru the shoulders enough to keep it from turning in the arms4 ,drill holes in the arms to hold the wire firmly4 ,to plane the vanes thin at the broad end1 use the board mentioned at the bottom of page #ai4 ,when gluing and nailing the vanes in the arms1 remember that one lies flat and the other nearly edgewise2 also remember to make them balance4 ,bore a #c_/af hole in the center of the base and glue the dowel into it4 ,before trying to fasten ,happy ,jack to a post1 drill holes in the base for nails or screws4 ,illustration3 ,,happy ,,jack ,,windmill ,,plate #ab ,,gloucester ,,happy ,,jack ,,windmill--,,plate #ac4 ,this ,happy ,jack is the kind which is common along the coast of ,new ,england4 ,he is often painted with blue and white uniform and black shoes1 while the paddles are left unpainted4 ,the drawing is made on squares so that it may be enlarged easily to any size4 ,keep the same number of squares but make them any size desired2 #c_/d is a good size4 ,the hat1 being made separate from the body1 should not be drawn on the same board4 ,to make the hat without a lathe1 make two wheels of soft wood1 round one edge of the larger1 and glue and nail the smaller one on it4 ,saw the head slanting to make a flat place for the hat1 as shown in side view of hat1 ,plate #ac4 ,the space between the legs should be cut out with a turning or key-hole saw1 tho it can be worked out as the diamond in the sword guard1 ,plate #i4 ,the ,happy ,jack should be mounted on a large wire rod4 ,illustration3 ,,gloucester ,,happy ,,jack ,,windmill ,,plate #ac ,,paddling ,,indian ,,windmill--,,plate #ad4 ,make this windmill any dimension desired1 using the same number of squares in drawing to keep the proportions4 ,the stern of the canoe should be planed thin enough so that the completed windmill will nearly or quite balance on the upright wire rod4 ,the arms should be made like those on the ,happy ,jack1 and as long as from the center of the shoulder to the topmost feather4 ,if the canoe is not too wide1 the ,indian can be nailed in place by two nails as shown in ,plate #ad1 otherwise drive smaller ones slanting thru the back into the canoe2 drill holes in either case4 ,after the hole is bored thru the shoulders1 use a trysquare to tell where to start the hole up thru the canoe so that it shall come in front of the former4 ,illustration3 ,,paddling ,,indian ,,windmill ,,plate #ad ,,kite--,,plate #ae4 ,kite flying is such fascinating sport that the three typical kites here given will make one want to build others1 larger and of different shapes4#b ,kites have been made large enough to carry a man high in the air4 ,the adjustments of a kite are so subtle that much patience is sometimes needed to make it fly4 ,that is why the rather elaborate bridle is suggested for the paper covered kite with tail4 ,it will require a little longer stay in the workshop1 but it will save time outdoors4 ,footnote #b3 ,many suggestions are found in ,the ,construction and ,flying of ,kites by ,charles ,m4 ,miller1 price #bj cents1 ,manual ,arts ,press1 ,peoria1 ,ill4 ,to make the spine and crosspiece1 saw a #a_/d strip from the edge of a #g_/h straight-grained spruce board #c ft4 long2 then saw this strip again lengthwise1 and plane the two pieces #c ft4 #c_/h #a_/d4 ,mark the center of the crosspiece and a point #h from the top of the spine1 and plane each end tapering thinner to #c_/af4 ,in each end saw a slot #c_/af deep1 ,plate #ae4 ,glue and bind securely the middle of the crosspiece to the #h point on the spine4 ,notice that the last few strands go around the others4 ,test the sticks to see that they are square with each other4 ,this can be done by measuring from one end of the spine to each end of the crosspiece4 ,put a cord that will not stretch around the ends of the sticks1 in the slots1 and tie it tightly4 ,bind this cord into each slot in such a manner that it will not slip1 and at the same time wind the sticks so that they will not split beyond the slot4 ,while doing this1 one must measure again from each end of the spine to the ends of the crosspiece so that the two halves of the kite will be equal4 ,cover the kite with strong1 light paper4 ,glue the paper to the sticks1 and fold it over the string #a_/b4 ,try to have the string lay in the crease of the fold4 ,strengthen the corners with another piece of paper1 #b wide4 ,illustration3 ,,kite ,,tailless ,,kite ,,box ,,kite ,,plate #ae ,to make an adjustable bridle1 wind a cord twice around the spine near its top and tie it tightly on the front side1 keeping the knot in the middle4 ,little holes will1 of course1 have to be made in the paper4 ,cut the cord about #b long and tie bowline-knot1 ,fig4 #b1 p4 #cd4 ,measure on the crosspiece #aj from the center1 and down the spine #ab from the crosspiece1 and tie three more such knots4 ,double two cords1 about #dj long1 and tie them in one big knot1 called the flying-knot1 to make a loop about #a long to which to fasten the anchor line4 ,mark a point on the spine #aj below the crosspiece4 ,hold the flying-knot here1 and fasten two cords to the loops on the crosspiece with two or three half-hitches1 ,plate #ae4 ,now bring the flying-knot #b above the crosspiece and out from the kite far enough to make these two cords taut4 ,fasten another cord to the loop at the upper part of the spine4 ,adjust the remaining cord as taut as the others4 ,a flat kite like this always needs a tail1 and the most bothersome tail ever made is that familiar kind made of paper and string4 ,to make a convenient1 serviceable1 and easily-made tail use strips1 #c wide1 of bunting1 cheese-cloth1 or any soft1 light cloth4 ,in a high wind a longer tail is needed than in a light wind4 ,if the kite seems too unsteady1 pull it down1 and try to adjust the bridle or the tail1 before an accident occurs4 ,if the kite dives1 let go the string just before the kite reaches the ground so that it will not strike the ground with force enough to smash the kite4 ,when letting out string rapidly1 always protect the hand with a cloth or glove lest the string cut thru the skin4 ,if in doubt about the strength of the anchor-line1 two boys can very quickly test it #ajj ft4 or so at a time as it is being let out2 one does not want the string to break when the kite is high in the air4 ,,tailless ,,kite--,,plate #ae4 ,if one has to fly a kite amid many obstructions of trees1 wires1 and houses1 one will appreciate the advantage of a tailless kite4 ,such a kite has to be more accurately made1 however1 and should be covered with cloth4 ,when making the bow1 file notches near the slot at each end in the same manner as for the bow1 ,plate #h1 in which the twisting string will be fastened later4 ,lash the middle of the bow to a point #g from the top of the spine4 ,in the slots1 put the cord which goes around the kite1 measuring carefully to keep the two sides the same size4 ,sew a piece of colored cambric over the kite4 ,tie the middle of a strong cord #f-a_/b feet long to the filed notch at one end of the bow with three half-hitches1 as shown in ,plate #ae4 ,pass one part of this cord around the other notch1 and fasten it in the same manner2 then tie the two ends together with a square knot4 ,make the dowel for twisting the two cords on the back of the bow so as to bend the bow as desired4 ,into one end of the dowel drive a small brad and file it sharp4 ,how much to bend the bow can be determined only by trying the kite4 ,as the bow bends1 the cloth becomes looser1 and it is this looseness of the cloth which so holds the wind that the kite will fly without a tail4 ,after twisting the cords enough1 slip them towards the end of the dowel away from the spur1 and rest the spur in the back of the spine4 ,tie a string around both the top and the bottom ends of the spine for the bridle4 ,the flying-knot should come as far as the end of the bow2 or1 some tie the lower end of the bridle about #ad from the lower end of the spine1 and make the flying-knot about #i in front and #b above the bow4 ,,box ,,kite--,,plate #ae4 ,in a gale too strong for other kites1 a box kite will fly safely4 ,the bridle is very easy to adjust1 and the kite1 tho somewhat more elaborate than the others1 is not difficult to make4 ,thin sticks like these can be sawed from the edge of a straight-grained board4 ,an easy way to make the notches in the ends of the braces is to clamp them all in the vise at once1 flat surfaces together1 and then saw them out with a back-saw4 ,this method presupposes that the uprights are all planed the same thickness4 ,if they are unequal in thickness1 saw the notches as wide as the thinnest upright and pare the others each to fit its proper upright4 ,in any construction like this1 which has a number of parts fitting together1 it is well to number the adjacent parts so that they may be put together again1 each in its place4 ,little nicks are cut with a knife on the four edges of the braces where the lashing is to be wound4 ,when all the sticks are fitted together1 glue the braces to the uprights #d-c_/h from the ends2 two frames are thus made just alike4 ,the lashing is done with large thread4 ,start it with two turns around the brace1 then once around the upright1 then once around the brace1 then again around the upright1 and so continue4 ,the last few turns should be around the brace4 ,see that the thread goes from the brace to the upright in the way most favorable for holding4 ,when all the lashing is done1 measure the center of each brace4 ,put one frame thru the other1 and drive a pin thru the two centers4 ,now the frames must be brought to a #ad-a_/b square by means of strong thread4 ,near the top of one upright tie a #f ft4 thread1 leaving a short end4 ,simply wind the long end twice around each upright1 and tie the end with a bow-knot until all sides of the square can be measured and adjusted4 ,when all sides are equal1 make the bow-knot into a square knot4 ,wind some thread around each upright1 except the first1 in such a manner as to hold the long thread securely4 ,now adjust the other end of the kite in the same way4 ,measure #h-c_/d from the ends of each upright and put other threads around the square4 ,these can be fastened at each upright after the first by three half-hitches4 ,the kite may be covered either with cloth or paper4 ,if cloth is used1 the edges should be hemmed4 ,if paper1 lay it on the floor1 put glue on each upright1 then press the paper to one upright4 ,wrap the paper around the kite and wind string around it several times to hold it while adjusting and pressing each corner4 ,glue the ends of the paper next1 pulling them as tight as possible4 ,two flat-irons will hold the ends while drying4 ,after the paper is on1 its edges should be strengthened with a narrow ribbon of cloth glued to it4 ,tie the bridle strings just above and below the upper cell and have the flying-knot #e in front of the end of the brace4 ,,kite-,,string ,,sailboat--,,plate #af4 ,to send messages up to his kite1 many a boy has made a hole in a piece of paper and watched that go sailing up his anchor line4 ,this sailboat will do that1 and other things too1 and come spinning down again to take another message4 ,a parachute1 made of a paper napkin1 having a #ab thread running to each corner and a nail for ballast tied where the four threads are knotted together1 can be sent up by this messenger1 released1 and allowed to float down from a great height4 ,paper gliders sent up this way will do many stunts before they reach ground4 ,fold a flimsy paper napkin in such a way as to hold a bunch of confetti with a pin thru only three or four thicknesses of the napkin4 ,this can be tied to the keel and the pin withdrawn by the release and fall of a nail1 and1 behold1 a shower of confetti6 ,be sure the falling nail will do no injury where it strikes4 ,a light1 frail model like this will require considerable time and patience to make and adjust so that it will work4 ,make the hull and posts from a stick about #ac long4 ,bore the #c_/af holes for the mast and keel1 the former a little to the left 7port1 a sailor would say7 of the center and #b-a_/b from the bow1 the latter in the center #b from the stern4 ,make the wheels of the ends of spools by sawing them off just where the straight portion begins1 and glueing them together on a hard dowel4 ,very accurately find their centers and drill holes for #a brads which form their axles4 ,drive these into the post so that the wheels run very freely4 ,do not nail the posts to the hull till the wire parts have been put in place4 ,make three staples of pins and drive them in the bottom of the hull so that a fine wire will just slide thru them easily4 ,three are used so that the wire will always be held straight4 ,next make the two eyes which hold the kite-string under the wheels4 ,coiled around once and a half1 the coils must be separated enough to allow the string to slip between4 ,the safety of the model1 swinging violently high in the air1 depends upon these eyes4 ,they can be driven thru small1 tight holes and bent on the under side to make them secure4 ,they must be just high enough to allow the string to run free4 ,the forward one is elongated because the kite-string slants upward so much4 ,bend the #d wire trigger three times around a brad driven in a piece of wood for convenience4 ,to handle wire readily for such work as this1 two pliers will be found useful4 ,saw a notch in the bow just wide enough for this coil4 ,now glue and nail the posts in position4 ,illustration3 ,,kite-,,string ,,sailboat ,,plate #af ,make the mast1 all the spars1 in fact1 smaller at the outer end4 ,rig it completely before gluing the mast in place4 ,be sure that the booms will swing over the forward wheel1 so as not to interfere with its easy running4 ,the sails should be of light cloth4 ,the booms and the gaffs 7see ,plate #cj for names of parts7 must swing freely on the mast1 so as to fold together when the trigger is released4 ,for the main-sheets1 use thread tied with a long loop to slip over the fine wire part of the trigger4 ,a cork #a-a_/d in diameter1 slit to the center1 can be put on the kite-string far enough from the kite to be safe from any entangling4 ,on the keel1 fasten ballast enough 7about #a oz47 to make the sailboat ride upright4 ,,the ,,hygroscope ,,or ,,weather ,,cottage--,,plate #ag4 ,this model serves to indicate the humidity 7dampness7 of the air4 ,it consists of the house1 turntable1 and figures1 the turntable being suspended on a violin string4 ,the violin string absorbs moisture from the air and untwists1 thus causing the man to come out2 when the air become dry the string twists tighter1 thus causing the woman to come out4 ,the model should be placed out doors but not exposed to rain or sun4 ,the arches of the doorways may be made with a big bit 7#a-c_/h7 or a scroll saw4 ,if a bit is used1 bore a hole for the spur first1 lest it split the board4 ,while boring hold the board vertically in the vise4 ,the portion cut off between the doorways can be sawed with the tip of the back-saw if the board is laid flat on the bench-hook4 ,the slanting lines at the top1 also1 can be sawed while held down on the bench-hook4 ,after the front1 back and sides are made1 nail the back to the sides1 but screw the front4 ,when this is done1 put the house in the vise in an upright position and plane the tops of the sides slanting4 ,notice that one roof is wider than the other4 ,nail the narrower one first1 with the grain running from front to back4 ,do not drive nails into the front but nail it securely at the back and side4 ,letting the plane rest on the other side of the house1 plane the upper edge of this roof slanting1 so that the other roof will fit4 ,nail this in place2 set all nails2 and plane the upper edge of this roof slanting1 letting the plane rest on the first roof4 ,two brads may now be driven near the center of the ridge-pole to hold the roofs together4 ,after making the floor1 place the house in position on it 7#a_/d from back1 #a_/b from ends7 and draw a line around the house4 ,remove the house2 drive three brads straight down thru the floor2 pull them out and start them from the under side in the same holes2 then put the house in place again and drive the brads home4 ,put in more brads to hold the house securely4 ,to make the chimney1 saw a notch #c_/af deep in the end of a #c_/d square stick4 ,if it fits on the roof1 bore a #e_/af hole thru its center1 and saw the chimney off #c_/d long4 ,glue it #c_/h from the front end of the roof4 ,when dry1 bore the hole thru the roof4 ,the chimney top with the dowel attached to it below is made to revolve so that the ,hygroscope may be adjusted4 ,to make the chimney top1 bore a #a_/d hole into the end of a #a_/b dowel2 then saw it off #a_/b and glue in the upper dowel4 ,make the turntable somewhat round at each end4 ,in the center of it1 glue and nail the lower dowel4 ,next1 paint the house if desired4 ,the violin string is glued and wedged into holes in the upper and lower dowels so that the turntable will swing #c_/af above the floor4 ,the man and woman may be made of cardboard1 wood1 clay1 chalk or plaster of ,paris2 or they can be bought at a toy store4 ,painted in bright colors and shellacked1 or varnished1 they look well4 ,they can be made to balance on the turntable by adding a piece of lead4 ,of course1 neither they nor the turntable should touch any part of the house as they swing around4 ,illustration3 ,,hygroscope ,,or ,,weather ,,cottage ,,plate #ag ,,electrophorus--,,plate #ah4 ,the electrophorus consists of two parts1 a pan filled with a resinous mixture1 and a cover which has been completely covered with tinfoil4 ,under favorable conditions1 a spark of electricity #a_/b long can be obtained from this electrophorus4 ,the favorable conditions are these3 ,the air should be dry2 both parts of the electrophorus should be warm1 dry1 and clean2 and the tinfoil and rosin should be perfectly flat1 so as to come in close contact with each other4 ,make the pan and its sides as shown in ,plate #ah4 ,glue and nail the sides in place and round their upper edges well with sandpaper4 ,to make the resinous mixture1 melt a half teacup of rosin with two teaspoons of turpentine and about the same of paraffin in a rather deep dish1 and pour the mixture into the pan4 ,as all these materials are inflammable1 perhaps the safest place to melt them is in the oven4 ,after the pan is cold1 test the surface of the rosin to see that it is flat every way4 ,if it is not flat1 sandpaper the high parts slowly with coarse sandpaper4 ,when making the cover1 observe the directions on page #bj1 then round the edge to a good half-circle4 ,test the cover also to see that it is flat1 especially on its under side1 for to get good sparks1 the tinfoil and rosin must come just as close together as possible4 ,cut two circles of tinfoil #d-a_/b in diameter4 ,smooth them carefully on a piece of paper1 spread glue thinly on the cover1 lay the tinfoil on the glue1 and smooth it with the fingers4 ,press the edges as smooth as possible because electricity escapes easily from sharp corners4 ,cover the larger open spaces with bits of tinfoil4 ,hard rubber 7ebonite71 being a non-conductor of electricity1 makes the best handle4 ,a piece of an old rubber comb or a fountain pen can be used for this purpose4 ,to get a spark of electricity1 rub the rosin with soft leather1 fur1 or woolen2 place the cover on it2 touch the top of the cover with the finger 7to remove the negative electricity72 lift the cover by the top of the handle2 bring the edge of the cover near a finger1 or other conductor1 and a spark will fly off with a snap4 ,it is a miniature flash of lightning4 ,some books on electricity describe many other experiments which can be tried4 ,illustration3 ,,electrophorus ,,plate #ah ,,waterwheel--,,plate #ai4 ,this waterwheel is designed to be placed in a flowing stream4 ,a longer trough might well lead the water into this one so as to get greater speed4 ,make the trough first1 being careful to make a good fit where the sides nail to the bottom4 ,nail the top #e from the end where the wheel is placed4 ,the upper corners of the axle blocks are to be cut off #a4 ,the center of the #e_/af hole for the axle is #g_/h from the lower edge4 ,when nailing the axle blocks in place1 put a dowel or lead pencil thru the holes to help in nailing the blocks exactly opposite each other4 ,after sawing a board for the wheel #d-a_/d square1 draw the diagonals and diameters 7cornerwise and crosswise1 that means7 to divide it into eight parts4 ,draw a #d circle for the wheel and a #c-a_/d circle to mark the depth of the notches for the paddles4 ,shape the wheel4 7,see page #bj for directions47 ,test it with the trysquare to keep the edge square with the flat surface4 ,bore a #a_/d hole in the center with the greatest care1 or the wheel will wobble sidewise4 ,the notches are cut with the back-saw alone4 ,one-eighth of an inch to one side of the eight lines across the circle1 saw straight down to the inner circle4 ,be careful to hold the saw square with the wheel4 ,after this saw cut is made1 measure the width of the notch by holding the edge of a paddle so as just to cover the saw cut1 and1 with a knife point make a dot at the other side of the paddle4 ,holding the trysquare against one side of the wheel and the inner edge of its blade over the dot1 score a knife line across the edge of the wheel4 ,then saw straight down again inside this knife line4 ,saw cornerwise a few times and the wood will be removed sufficiently4 ,the notches may better be too small than too large1 for the paddles can be planed thinner to fit4 ,clean the wheel with the plane before nailing the paddles4 ,all these paddles except one can be nailed with the wheel held in a corner of the vise4 ,to nail that one1 put a thin board upright in the vise and rest the wheel on its top4 ,all nails should be started in the paddles1 not in the wheel4 ,illustration3 ,,waterwheel ,,plate #ai ,make the axle of hard wood4 ,push it thru the axle blocks and wheel1 and lock it to the wheel with a brad1 ,plate #ai4 ,the axle is made long so that a pulley 7spool7 can be put on and a belt 7string7 run from this to other pulleys4 ,a leather washer outside each axle block keeps the wheel in the center4 ,if the work has been carefully done1 the paddles will not strike2 if they do strike1 they must be pared off4 ,,water ,,motor--,,plate #bj4 ,this motor is a waterwheel designed for an ordinary hose faucet4 ,under a stream of water no bigger than a large needle1 it will fairly buzz4 ,if the wheel does not run exactly true on the axle1 the motor will need legs screwed on the outside of the box4 ,make the wheel of soft wood just as true as possible4 7,see page #bj47 ,for the axle a small brass rod or a large knitting needle may be used4 ,in the center of the wheel1 drill a hole smaller than the axle so as to make a tight fit4 ,be very careful to bore this hole straight4 ,force the axle thru the wheel1 and if the wheel wobbles only slightly drive wooden wedges beside the axle to force it square with the wheel4 ,if it wobbles too much1 plug the hole and try boring again4 ,resting the axle on the jaws of the vise1 revolve the wheel rapidly to see where it is out of true1 and patiently pare it down4 ,the flat side of the wheel which wobbles only a little can be planed off4 ,the strip of screen wire netting should now be tacked on the wheel4 ,it is long enough to go twice around the wheel1 and should be tacked on with a dozen small tacks4 ,for suggestions about the pulley see page #ef4 ,prepare a block of soft wood for the coupling4 ,from its bottom1 gage a line marking the height of the dovetails in which the blocks ,c and ,d fit #c_/h on each side4 ,saw these dovetails #c_/af deep1 and pare them slanting with a chisel4 ,in the center of the top1 bore a #a hole1 #c_/d deep2 continue the hole thru the block with a #a_/b bit4 ,bore holes #c_/h from the top1 #a_/b from the ends for the two #a-a_/b screws which are shown in the small drawing1 ,plate #bj4 ,gage and saw out the left-hand half of the block 7as shown in the plate7 as deep as the #a hole4 ,the purpose of this is to permit a squeezing fit on the threads of the faucet4 ,when first trying it on the faucet1 squeeze it hard with a hand-screw to jamb the threads into the wood2 after that1 the screws can be put in and the coupling attached at pleasure4 ,a #a_/d hole is bored in the #a_/b dowel1 which serves as a nozzle1 until the spur just shows4 ,without allowing the bit to bore any farther1 turn it around enough so that the spur will wear the wood and thus make a tapering hole as shown in the sectional drawings4 ,prepare the sides1 ends1 and top of the box1 the three blocks1 the key wedge1 and the two stops4 ,the wedge should be #a_/af wider at one end than the other and should fit the dovetail4 ,block ,c should fit the other4 ,in the top piece1 bore a #c_/d hole in the middle #a-a_/d from the end4 ,this hole is larger than the nozzle to allow for adjustments4 ,all these parts must now be thoroly soaked with paraffin4 ,melt the paraffin1 apply it with a brush to all surfaces1 and drive it in with heat4 ,during the process1 the nozzle can be made fast in the coupling1 using plenty of paraffin to make it water tight4 ,see that the tiny outlet occupies the best position for directing the water onto the wheel4 ,after the nozzle is cold again1 the outlet should be carefully worked out again with the warm point of a big hat-pin or wire1 filed to a good point4 ,put the parts together as follows3 ,nail one side 7the right in the plate7 to the ends2 screw the other side to ends2 nail top to ends and first side only2 nail block ,b to ,a2 then ,a to the top4 ,unscrew the side and bore holes in the center of the sides for the axle4 ,make them fit nicely1 then soak them with paraffin4 ,put the wheel1 the side1 the pulley1 and the stops in place4 ,put the coupling in such position that the nozzle comes over the rim of the wheel and nail block ,c4 ,after putting two or three soft leather washers in the coupling screw it to the faucet1 lock it to the motor1 and the motor is ready4 ,better bearings for the axle can be made of two pieces of solder screwed to the inside of the sides4 ,if these are made1 the holes in the sides should be large enough not to touch the axle4 ,the wheel and pulley can be locked to a brass axle by boring a hole thru the axle with a drill made of a needle4 7,see ,drills1 page #aa47 ,illustration3 ,,water ,,motor ,,plate #bj ,,sand ,,wheel--,,plate #ba4 ,fine sand will make a wheel like this spin around lively4 ,most of the parts are easily made1 the wheel offering the most difficulties4 ,as shown in the drawing it consists of two boxes1 uprights connecting the two1 and a wheel with paddles swung on an axle between the uprights4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d ,to make the curves on the uprights1 lay them edge to edge in the vise and start the spur of a large bit in the crack1 #a-a_/b from each end4 ,if a big spool cannot be obtained for the wheel1 plane out an octagonal block #a-c_/h long1 #a in diameter4 ,the slanting part of the spool must be whittled away4 ,divide one end into eight equal parts and draw lines lengthwise on the spool at each division4 ,on these lines1 measure very carefully #aa_/af from one end4 ,then1 holding the spool level in the vise bore #c_/af holes half thru the spool at each of these dots4 ,the easiest way to lay out the paddles is in one long piece as shown in ,fig4 #d4 ,if lines ,a and ,b are sawed carefully 7see page #ab7 they will fit the spool well enough to glue4 ,the stems of the paddles go into the holes bored in the spool4 ,they are easily made round by paring the corners a little1 and then screwing them around in a #c_/af hole in a piece of hard wood4 ,the ends of the paddles where the sand strikes are bevelled on the under side4 ,the holes in the uprights1 thru which #a-a_/d brads are pushed into the center of the spool1 must be exactly opposite each other1 #c-a_/d from the bottom4 ,little leather washers should be put between the spool and the uprights4 ,illustration3 ,,sand ,,wheel ,,plate #ba ,now make the boxes4 ,to nail the boxes to the upright follow the suggestions on page #ei for nailing the floor of the weather cottage4 ,keep the brads near the center of the uprights lest they split the curves4 ,a #e_/af hole for the sand is bored in the upper box in such a position that the sand will strike near the middle of the ends of the paddles4 ,the peg is tapered to fit this hole4 ,,running ,,wheel--,,plate #bb4 ,it is fine fun for several boys to race down the street with running wheels4 ,each boy can have a different kind of wheel by following the suggestions on ,plate #bb4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e ,the wheel may be made any convenient size4 ,saw a board off square and plane it flat4 ,to be sure that it is flat1 it must be tested with a straight-edge from corner to corner1 crosswise1 and lengthwise4 ,draw the circle with a string pinned to the center1 if a large compass is not at hand4 ,saw it with a turning saw and finish it as suggested on page #bj4 ,bore and countersink a hole in the center for a #a-a_/b flat-head screw4 ,make the handle and drill a small hole in it where the wheel is to be screwed on4 ,round off the upper end and edges of the handle so that it feels good to the hand grasping it4 ,the screws used in the connecting rod should slip easily thru the holes at each end4 ,altho one arm will do1 two look better4 ,to draw the boy1 draw as many #c_/d squares on the board as there are in ,fig4 #e1 then sketch the outline one square at a time4 ,to cut it out1 a scroll-saw or turning-saw is almost surely needed1 tho a patient boy can do it with auger-bits1 back-saw1 knife1 and file--the bits to be used first at all the inside angles4 ,on the handle1 must be put a block on which to screw the boy4 ,to fasten the two arms loosely at the shoulders1 the screw should be loose in the shoulder and first arm1 and tight in the second arm4 ,the same is true of the hands and flagpole4 ,in the top of the flagpole1 bore a hole to fit a small flag4 ,paint of bright colors makes the model look much more pleasing4 ,an easy way to make the sliding part of the lower right-hand running wheel1 ,plate #bb1 is to cut out with bit and chisel a narrow slot thru the handle1 wide enough for two screws1 with washers on them1 which screw into the block holding the flag4 ,illustration3 ,,running ,,wheel ,,plate #bb ,,rattle--,,plate #bc4 ,this is a noisy toy and will make a safe substitute for fire-crackers on the ,fourth of ,july4 ,some of the dimensions may be changed to suit such a spool as can be obtained4 ,it should be a rather deep spool1 that is1 one that held a lot of thread4 ,the noise is made by the spring snapping off the slats in the spool as the head of the rattle is swung round and round4 ,draw lines across one end of the spool to divide it into eight equal parts4 ,place the spool endwise in the vise and1 with the back-saw1 cut eight notches a little more than #a_/af wide straight towards the opposite side of the spool4 ,by sawing twice at each notch1 the wood which remains can easily be removed with the saw held slanting4 ,there are several ways of making the eight little slats which fit into these notches2 the easiest1 perhaps1 is to split them from a block 7#a-e_/h #a-a_/b #e_/af7 of a straight-grained wood1 and plane them on the jig described at the foot of page #ai4 ,glue them in the notches4 ,plane the back and the spring this same way4 ,square both ends of the back but do not plane it quite to width until it is glued and nailed in place4 ,in the two sides1 bore a #e_/af hole for the dowel1 #c_/d from the end and a little over #c_/d from the back edge4 7,holes are always located by their centers47 ,this dowel must fit tightly in the handle and spool1 and loosely in the two sides4 ,plane the spring thinner at the narrow end4 ,it should be narrow enough and its corners cut off enough so as not to touch the spool when it snaps4 ,the handle might well be octagonal rather than round4 ,the parts may now be put together as follows3 ,glue and nail the sides first to the thick end1 second to the thin end4 ,the distance between the ends inside is #c-e_/af4 ,keep these four parts flush on the back edges so that the back will fit4 ,glue and nail the back4 ,glue the dowel in the handle4 ,put glue inside the spool and on the middle portion of the dowel1 then1 with the spool between the two sides1 push the dowel thru all three holes4 ,glue and nail the spring in place4 ,it should be as far towards the spool as it will go without snapping the next slat when it snaps off one slat4 ,illustration3 ,,rattle ,,plate #bc ,,cart--,,plate #bd4 ,the important features of a cart are the wheels and axle and the tongue2 if these are strong and the tongue securely fastened1 almost any box will do for the body4 ,two tongues1 nailed or screwed to the sides of the body1 probably make the strongest handle1 but they are not so good looking as the one shown in ,plate #bd4 ,if this one is screwed to the box with six #a screws1 two in the tongue and two in each block1 it will be strong enough4 ,some of the nicer boxes to be secured of a grocer will do for a body1 tho it is better to make one one's self4 ,four wheels of #a_/b hard wood should be made 7see page #bj7 and then each two of the four glued and nailed together very securely with the grain crosswise4 ,for this purpose1 #a-a_/d clout1 or clinch nails are best4 ,do not drive them too near the center nor the rim4 ,to clinch nails1 they should be driven onto a piece of iron4 ,after this is done1 a #g_/h hole 7or larger if you can get a larger stick for the axle7 is bored straight thru the center4 ,to cut the cylindrical ends of the axle1 first draw a #g_/h circle at the center of each end1 then lay out and saw out two rectangular pieces1 one on each side of the circles so as to leave a #g_/h square pin1 #b-a_/d long4 ,proceed to make these pins2 first1 eight sided2 then1 sixteen sided2 then1 round2 using knife or chisel and a coarse flat file4 ,make the hole in the washers before cutting off each corner #i_/af4 ,these washers are to be fastened to the axle when held rather snugly against the wheel with two #a screws put crosswise the grain4 ,before putting the wheels on the last time1 rub the axles and holes well with hard soap to make them run easier4 ,draw a line across the bottom of the body #e from the back end1 and bore four screw holes thru the bottom2 countersink them well on the inside of the body1 and put #a screws thru into the flat side of the axle4 ,the axle is planned so that the wheels run within #a_/h of the body4 ,illustration3 ,,cart ,,plate #bd ,with a curved lower edge1 the tongue is #b-a_/b wide at one end and #a-a_/b at the other4 ,to get the correct slant at the wide end1 block up the cart level1 have some one 7or the vise7 hold the tongue in the position wanted when finished1 then with a strip of wood about #b wide placed upright against the front of the body1 draw a line on the tongue4 ,from the lowest corner of the tongue1 draw another line parallel to the first1 and saw off4 ,after making the two blocks and fastening them securely to the tongue1 saw the lower ends flush with the curve of the tongue4 ,place the tongue in position1 draw a line around it on the body1 then bore holes where screws will go best into the tongue and blocks4 ,six #a screws well countersunk will hold the tongue securely4 ,since the tongue is fastened to the front1 the sides and bottom must be well nailed to it2 or1 the corners may be strengthened with a piece of tin inside and outside each corner1 tacked or riveted together4 ,each piece of tin should be about #c square4 ,a piece of old bicycle frame forced tightly into the hole of a wheel1 makes it very durable4 ,such a hole would doubtless have to be bored with an expansive bit4 ,a bicycle frame is easily filed in two at some distance from the reinforced joints4 ,such a piece should be longer than the thickness of the wheel to allow filing it flush after it is driven in4 ,to force it in1 use a strong vise1 or1 after protecting it with hard wood1 drive it slowly with a heavy hammer4 ,small carts can be made with wheels made of spools like those of the cannon4 7,see ,plate #be47 ,,cannon--,,plate #be4 ,this cannon will shoot small marbles very well4 ,the force of it depends1 of course1 on the strength of the rubber bands4 ,because the ramrod and handle are rather heavy1 a strong dowel is put thru the handle and ramrod4 ,the rubber washer absorbs some of the shock4 ,for the barrel draw a #a-a_/d circle on one end of a stick #f-a_/b #a-a_/b #a-a_/b4 ,from the center of this circle1 bore a #i_/af hole straight thru the stick endwise1 stopping as soon as the spur comes thru4 ,set the needle of the compass in this spur hole and draw a #a circle and1 if possible1 a #a-a_/d circle2 then finish boring4 ,plane the stick round to the #a-a_/d circle4 ,to hold the stick while doing this1 put a rod thru the hole1 open the vise #f-a_/b and let the barrel rest endwise in the vise4 ,two and one-half inches from the breech end of the barrel1 draw a line around it to limit the taper of the muzzle end4 ,plane the muzzle to the #a circle4 ,two inches from the breech1 bore a #c_/h hole straight thru the barrel2 and into this hole glue the axle4 ,after the glue is dry1 bore out the barrel again1 and sandpaper the hole well4 ,make the ramrod fit loosely in the barrel4 7,see directions for ,dart1 page #af47 ,make the handle in the same manner as the barrel was made1 except that1 after drawing the #a-a_/d circle at the end where the spur just appears1 the hole is not bored further4 ,glue the ramrod in place1 and fasten it with the #c_/h dowel4 ,the curved notch into which the rubber bands are tied1 can be worked out patiently with a round file1 first cutting a ,v-shaped notch with a knife4 ,pare the corners and sandpaper all parts well4 ,the rubber washer can be made of an old rubber heel4 ,to bore a hole in it1 squeeze it between two boards and bore thru both together4 ,at least one of the uprights must be screwed to the base4 ,the first one may be nailed4 ,glue and nail this one #a_/d from the edge of the base4 ,hold the other in place and draw a line around it4 ,bore holes for the screws1 put the screws in the holes1 and press the upright on them to mark where to bore in the upright4 ,after boring in the uprights1 put the cannon and upright in place1 and tighten the screws4 ,the wheels can be made of the ends of large spools1 well countersunk for a short1 large screw4 ,illustration3 ,,cannon ,,plate #be ,illustration3 ,,automobile ,,plate #bf ,,automobile--,,plate #bf4 ,tho the motor 7an elastic band7 which makes this automobile go is a short-winded affair1 still1 if the wheels are easy running1 it will go alone for a short distance on a wooden floor4 ,a stronger elastic can be used if the automobile carries a load4 ,if the parts are painted with bright colors before they are entirely put together1 the automobile will look very well4 ,first1 make the body1 then #d-a_/d from the front end and #c_/d from the right side1 bore a #a_/d hole in the body for the steering post4 ,this should fit tightly so as to hold the wheels in any position desired4 ,leather washers are nailed to the post close to the body4 ,the steering post must be put in place before any other parts are fastened to the body4 ,the ends of the rails which are later fastened to the bottom of the body1 slant #a_/b4 ,the center of the holes for the axles is #c_/d beyond this slanting line and #a_/d above the lower edge of the rails4 ,when boring these #a_/d holes1 the rails should be clamped together so that the holes will be exactly opposite each other4 ,the forward holes are made long to allow the axles to swing back and forth4 ,to make this hole1 two #a_/d holes are bored side by side and the top and bottom smoothed with a #a_/d chisel4 ,when nailing the body to the rails1 put the rear axle thru the holes to aid in keeping them opposite each other4 ,the forward axle is made in one piece and kept so until after the steering rope is in place4 ,the axle must be held carefully in place while the brad holes are bored #a_/h from the outer edge of the rails and straight thru the center of the axle4 ,a tight fitting brad is driven into this hole4 ,the steering rope must not stretch2 large1 hard thread is suitable4 ,wind a piece about #ah long tightly around the axle about #a_/d from one rail and tie it4 ,pass one end thru the small screw-eyes shown in the lower drawing1 and wind it around the axle near the other rail leaving no slack in the screw-eyes2 then wind six to eight turns smoothly around the steering post1 and fasten the end to the beginning with several half-hitches4 7,see ,plate #ae47 ,a separate thread should be tied around the axle and steering rope at the second place4 ,should there be any slack1 it can be taken up by laying a ,v-shaped thread over the steering rope near the axle and passing the two ends over the upper side of the axle1 and tying them across the steering rope on the other side of the axle4 ,this tends to pull the steering rope together on top of the axle4 ,the wheels can be sawed from short lengths of curtain poles1 obtained at a furniture store4 ,the #a_/d holes for the axle1 must be bored exactly at the center4 ,the wheels must turn freely on the front axle1 but be glued to the rear axle1 which must itself turn freely in the rails4 ,after the wheels are in place1 the front axle can be sawed in two with a back-saw1 using very short strokes1 and sawing two cuts nearly thru before either is sawed completely4 ,nail the wind-shield to the engine1 then glue both to the body4 ,nail the seat-back to the seat so that the top of the seat will be #c_/d above the body1 then nail the two sides to the end and to the seat-back and seat4 ,glue the whole to the body4 ,nails can be driven up thru the body into the engine1 the seat back1 and the end1 if care is used in locating them4 ,one end of the elastic band 7motor7 is tied with a bit of string to a brad driven in the forward end of the body of the automobile4 ,on the other end of the elastic band is tied a piece of string about #h long4 ,this is put just under the body and above the steering rope and wound two or three times tightly around the rear axle and tied4 ,the string and elastic band should be simply straight1 the elastic neither stretched nor loose4 ,to wind up the motor1 move the automobile backwards on the floor and hold the rear wheels until ready to let the automobile go4 ,,bow ,,pistol--,,plate #bg4 ,for target shooting in the house1 this is a fine toy4 ,with nicely made arrows and a good bow1 it will shoot very well4 ,make a good bow of rattan1 or other tough wood4 ,an old spoke of a carriage wheel could doubtless be obtained of a blacksmith or wheelwright1 and such a hickory spoke would make a good bow4 ,make the bow much like that shown on ,plate #h1 except that it should be round at the center to fit the #c_/h hole in the pistol4 ,the bowstring should be a hard cord so that it will slip easily from the notches in the barrel when the trigger is pulled4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f ,before shaping the pistol1 make the groove in the center of one edge of the board4 ,this should be made with a #c_/h round plane4 ,it can be made1 however1 with the tool shown in ,fig4 #f1 a gouge1 and a round file4 ,this tool is much like the one described on page #da tho a larger nail is used4 ,make the groove #g_/cb deep2 gage a line #c_/af from each side of the board2 then use the gouge inside these lines and as deep as the groove4 ,when the gouging is well done1 smooth the groove with a round file or coarse sandpaper wrapped around a pencil4 ,draw and shape the pistol4 ,make the lower edge of the barrel half round4 ,sandpaper it well4 ,make the trigger of hard wood and screw it on the pistol4 ,the shape of the notch next to the trigger is very important but the shape of the other one is not so4 ,both notches1 however1 must be so smooth and well rounded as not to injure the bowstring4 ,they should be not deeper than one-half the depth of the groove4 ,arrows are quickly made by sawing long strips of straight-grained wood1 #c_/af square1 planing the corners1 and sandpapering2 then cutting them #e long1 splitting the ends 7see page #af71 inserting a paper #a #a_/b and tying the end with thread4 ,illustration3 ,,bow ,,pistol ,,plate #bg ,,elastic ,,gun--,,plate #bh4 ,if cash carrier elastic cord about #e_/af in diameter and #ah long is used on this gun1 it will shoot buckshot1 peas1 small arrows1 etc41 with considerable force2 in fact1 if the cord is fastened far enough forward1 it will require all a boy's strength to pull the rider back to the hook4 ,the gun may be made of pine1 whitewood or clear spruce4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g ,to lay out the gun 7see ,fig4 #g7 first draw ,a ,b1 then ,a ,c1 then measure ,b ,d and draw ,c ,d2 next measure the width of the barrel and draw ,e ,f2 add #c_/h below this for the gun-stock1 and finally draw the curves freehand4 ,to saw it out1 first rip it along ,e ,f1 then cross cut it at ,h ,f1 then rip it as far the curve along ,c ,d1 and then along the lower side of the gun-stock to meet ,c ,d1 finally along ,a ,b4 ,of course1 none of this sawing should quite touch the lines4 ,plane to these lines wherever possible1 then use the spokeshave4 ,the curve and corner at ,f should be pared with a chisel4 ,the lower edge of the gun-stock and barrel is made half-round1 but the upper edge1 especially where the spring is screwed1 is only slightly round4 ,the curve at the butt of the gun-stock should be cut out with the turning-saw1 and rounded with a half-round file4 ,the groove can be made as in the bow pistol4 7,see page #hf47 ,all parts of the gun should be well sandpapered1 especially where the elastic will rub on the barrel4 ,make the trigger of tough wood4 ,illustration3 ,,elastic ,,gun ,,plate #bh ,bore a #a_/d hole for the trigger post about #c_/d from the back end of the groove1 making it slant forward about #c_/d4 ,make this hole smooth as possible4 ,where the hole comes thru the gun-stock1 start the mortise in which the trigger belongs4 ,this should be #c_/h deep and an easy fit for the trigger4 ,put the trigger in place1 and drill a small hole straight thru the gun-stock and trigger4 ,consider carefully where to bore this hole so that it will not come too near the edge of the trigger4 ,insert a good-fitting brad and see if the trigger post will move up and down about #a_/d4 ,do not make the mortise so long that the trigger post will slip by the trigger4 ,now make the spring of hard wood4 ,pare the curve from each end with a chisel1 holding the spring endwise in the bench-hook4 ,the holes for the screw and the hook must be large enough so that the spring will not be split1 and yet the hook must be screwed in strongly to hold the elastic4 ,the hook must be filed off enough1 and slanting1 so that the screw-eye in the rider will slide under it and be caught4 ,the rider is the hardest part to make because it is small and must be of hard wood2 also1 the block must be nicely fitted into the long piece4 ,make the lower edge of the long piece round so as to slide well in the groove4 ,bore a #e_/af hole thru the block endwise the grain1 countersink the ends1 and smooth them so that they cannot injure the elastic4 ,next lay out1 saw1 and chisel a notch #e_/af deep in the long piece in which the block will fit snugly4 ,glue it and nail it from the under side1 or put in a #a_/b screw4 ,holes will have to be bored carefully for either brads or screw4 ,bore a hole1 and put the screw-eye in such a position that it will slide under the hook with a snap4 ,be careful not to twist the eye off in this hard wood4 ,the back end of the eye might well be filed somewhat slanting so as to slip under the hook better4 ,put the elastic thru the rider1 snap the rider on the hook1 and pull the ends of the elastic as far as seems best1--don't have it too strong6 ,where the ends of the elastic are pulled1 bore two #a_/d holes thru the barrel one above the other4 ,bind the elastic securely between these holes2 to make it doubly secure1 wind a string between the elastic and the barrel to pull the first strings closer together4 ,now saw off the ends of a spool about #a_/b and screw them to the barrel in such a place that they will hold the elastic1 without stretching1 against the sides of the barrel4 ,these spools should turn easily4 ,they cannot be placed exactly opposite because the screws will interfere4 ,snap the rider to the hook1 pull the trigger1 and notice that the rider goes up with the trigger post4 ,to hold it down1 put a slender #c_/d screw on each side of the groove in such a place that the screw heads will come over the outside of the screw-eye2 or1 #a brads may be bent over the screw-eye4 ,when everything is in working order1 drive a #a brad on each side of the spring to keep the hook always in place4 ,,rattle-,,bang ,,gun--,,plate #bi4 ,for boys who want to play soldier1 here is a gun which will make a big noise but will not hurt anybody4 ,first1 make the rattle of maple4 ,the slot in it can be made with the rip-saw4 ,the solid end must be nicely squared to fit the forward end of the pocket cut out of the gun-stock4 ,here it must be held firmly in place by glue and two screws4 ,one screw is put slanting from the top of the gun-stock2 the other is put straight from the bottom4 ,that the rattle may sound the loudest1 it must not touch anywhere else than this solid end4 ,when putting the knocker and trigger in place1 see that they also do not touch the rattle4 ,the gun-stock is made like that of the elastic gun 7,plate #bh7 except that it has to be #b-c_/h wide in that portion which holds the rattle4 ,the pocket is #c-a_/b from the forward end and #a-a_/b deep where the solid part of the rattle fits4 ,to put the slanting screw in nicely1 a place must be cut out with a small chisel for its head1 #c_/h deep and #a_/b away from the pocket4 ,clamp the rattle in position1 bore a hole for the screw1 then glue and screw the rattle in place4 ,before the glue is dry1 see that the rattle is straight1 then put the lower screw into it4 ,make the knocker of maple4 ,the reason for the triangular notch in its bottom edge will be evident when the trigger is turned around4 ,the stiffer the spring is1 the harder1 of course1 it will strike the rattle1 and also1 the harder the trigger will turn2 #a_/h will be thick enough for the thinnest place4 ,the trigger should also be of maple4 ,join it with a cross-lap joint4 7,see page #bd47 ,then1 holding each end successively upright in the vise1 draw the slanting lines and saw for #c_/h lengthwise in such a way as to leave #a_/af flat on each of the two adjacent surfaces4 ,after sawing endwise1 saw the little corner pieces off crosswise4 ,the trigger has to withstand considerable pulling1 so it should fit nicely1 yet easily1 a #a screw in its center4 ,before screwing either the knocker or the trigger in place1 lay both on the gun-stock so that they will engage properly2 then mark the place for the screws1 drill holes1 and screw them on4 ,if the knocker touches the rattle1 take it off and plane a slanting chip or two where it is screwed to the gun-stock4 ,a thin leather washer #e_/h in diameter will prevent the trigger touching4 ,a little soap will make the trigger turn easier4 ,illustration3 ,,rattle-,,bang ,,gun ,,plate #bi ,the barrel may well be made of a broomstick4 ,to make it fit on the top of the gun-stock1 saw it down the middle and cut off the lower half4 ,before fastening it in place1 be sure that it will not touch the sounding part of the rattle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h ,a still louder and more difficult rattle to make is shown in ,fig4 #h4 ,most boys would find it impossible to bore a #a hole endwise in maple4 ,the knocker and trigger would both have to be set out from the gun-stock4 ,,boat--,,plate #cj4 ,this boat is designed rather heavy to insure good service4 ,it has ballast and beam enough to right itself even tho the sails do get wet4 ,if a better looking boat is desired1 draw the deck more slender2 hollow the hull with bit and gouge2 pare the gunwales with the spokeshave to give it some sheer2 and nail on a thin deck4 ,soft pine is the best wood for the hull and spruce for the spars4 ,to lay out the hull1 draw a center-line lengthwise on top1 bottom1 and ends of the block of wood4 ,make all the measurements given on the deck2 7top of the hull1 ,plate #cj7 first lengthwise1 then crosswise4 ,square with the deck1 the curve should be worked out with rip-saw and spokeshave4 ,the stem should next be undercut with the saws 7rip and crosscut7 so as to make place for the rudder4 ,on the bottom leave a flat place #g-a_/d #a_/b for the keel to fit2 then round the hull as suggested by the sectional drawings at ,,ab and ,,cd4 ,make the keel and nail it securely in place4 ,from the under side of the boat and slanting the same as the keel and undercut1 bore a #e_/h hole for the stem of the rudder4 ,make the rudder and tiller of #a_/d wood4 ,the little mortise in the tiller can be cut with a small chisel after a #c_/af hole is bored at its center4 ,for the wheel1 make a dowel about #b long and into one end of it bore a hole about #a deep for a #a-a_/d screw4 ,saw a piece from this end #e_/h long and screw it to the deck about #a-a_/b in front of the hole bored for the rudder4 ,the wheel should turn rather hard so as to stay in any position desired4 ,to make the spars1 7mast1 boom1 etc417 follow the directions on page #af4 ,use large screw-eyes in the gaff and boom 7or see ,plate #af1 method of swinging booms to mast7 and a very small one at the top of the mast4 ,to nail the bowsprit securely1 place it #a back of the prow1 drive a #a brad thru it near the prow1 and one on each side of it #c_/d back4 ,bend these latter over the bowsprit before they are driven in their full length4 ,an upward slant is given to the bowsprit by planing its larger end slanting to fit the deck4 ,the rudder is hung on two staples made of pins4 ,two headless pins are driven into the rudder and bent down at right angles to slip into these staples4 ,in order that the stem of the rudder may turn enough1 the rudder must be hung close to the hull4 ,each rope of the rigging should have its own screw-eye 7or staple7 and cleat on the deck4 ,the cleat 7a device for fastening a rope in any position1 by winding it back and forth7 is simply two slender brads driven slanting4 ,the mainsail should be #i on the mast and #aa at its outer edge4 ,it should be hemmed and properly fastened to the spars4 ,on the mast1 fine wire rings or loops of thread may be used4 ,the jib should extend #i up the stay 7the rope from the end of the bowsprit to the top of the mast7 and be either sewed to it or made to slide on it with small rings of wire4 ,ballast can be cut 7with tin-shears or saw7 from lead pipe and nailed to the keel4 ,to drive brads thru lead1 pinch them between the thumb and finger1 and drive them gently4 ,for convenience in holding the boat when it is out of the water1 make a dry dock as shown in the drawing4 ,illustration3 ,,boat ,,plate #cj ,,pile-,,driver--,,plate #ca4 ,in wet1 soft soil1 wherever any building operations are to be undertaken1 long1 straight logs called piles have first to be driven to support the foundation4 ,in wet soil they never rot2 those driven for the building of ,venice centuries ago are still solid4 ,if holes are bored in the weight of this toy pile-driver1 it is made more effective4 ,this is not a difficult model if each part is well made4 ,it is important1 however1 to nail it in the following order3 ,runs to uprights1 uprights to sides1 sides to base1 top to uprights1 braces to uprights1 then to base4 ,the ends of the braces are mitered1 that is1 sawed1 like the corner of a picture-frame1 on the diagonal of a square4 ,the axle of the little spool is made by two #a brads1 and it rests in notches as near the end of the top blocks as is convenient to file them4 ,it is held in place by little brads1 or pins crossed over it1 or by a staple made of a pin4 ,a crank for the big spool 7called the drum7 is made of a #c piece of stiff wire4 ,it should be flattened enough not to turn in the drum4 ,fasten the string to the drum thru a little hole drilled thru its rim4 ,if the string comes off the upper spool1 put a large screw-eye into the top piece and pass the string thru it4 ,illustration3 ,,pile ,,driver ,,plate #ca ,,windmill--,,plate #cb4 ,on a hilltop1 exposed to every wind that blows1 one of these windmills made by a boy has been spinning around for four years4 ,the windmill in this form serves also as a weathervane4 ,pine is the best wood for this model4 ,to withstand the weather1 the model should be painted4 ,after planing the post to size1 lay out the chamfers 7see page #cb7 with a pencil on all four sides4 ,the curve should be cut with a knife2 the upper part may be planed if the square part is not squeezed in the vise4 ,plane the two pieces for the vanes as accurately as possible so as to be able to make a good joint4 ,lay out and cut this joint as directed on page #bd4 ,after it is well fitted1 draw the curves where the edges are to be whittled away4 ,there are sixteen of them4 ,open the compass #c_/d and place the needle point always on the front right-hand edge as the wheel turns around4 ,the curve begins #a_/h from the joint and ends #a_/h from the back edge 7one also goes towards the lower edge74 ,from this point draw a straight line to the end of the vane4 ,draw such lines as explained on page #cb4 ,take the joint apart and whittle the edges away to these curves4 ,on the beam1 make chamfers #a-c_/d long4 ,at the rear end1 on the top and bottom1 draw a center-line and two lines on each side of the center-line #a_/h apart4 ,between the first two1 nearest the center-line1 make the ,v-shaped groove in which the rudder fits4 ,the sides of the beam are to be pared away to the other two lines1 leaving this end #a_/b wide4 ,the curves at the rear end of the rudder can be sawed best with a scroll saw4 ,lacking that1 proceed as follows3 ,first1 bore a #a_/d hole near the short straight line in the middle4 ,resting the rudder on a cutting board1 pare to this line with a chisel4 ,next1 saw straight from the end of the rudder to this straight line2 then saw the corners1 and pare to the curves4 ,the width of the notch at the front end of the rudder is equal to the space left between the roots of the ,v-shaped notches in the beam4 ,measure this space1 lay out the notch1 saw1 and chisel it2 then pare the corners so as to fit the ,v-shaped notches in the beam4 ,beware of crowding the rudder1 for it will split easily4 ,when fitted1 glue and nail it in place1 slanting a #a brad thru the curve into the beam4 ,illustration3 ,,windmill ,,plate #cb ,put the wheel on the beam with two washers and a large screw 7#b ,no4 #ab round head is a good one74 ,for this screw bore a #a_/d hole thru the center of the wheel1 and a smaller hole in the beam4 ,now balance the windmill on the top of the post1 and put the beam and post together with washers and screw in the same manner4 ,,kite-,,string ,,reel--,,plate #cc4 ,a boy who flies kites will appreciate this reel for hauling in his kite quickly and keeping the string in order4 ,the axle is made long for the purpose of putting on a brake when letting out a kite4 ,the brake is simply a strong cord1 fastened to a screw in the lower part of the further upright1 7as viewed in ,plate #cc7 wound several times around the axle1 and the other end held in the hand4 ,a #a hole is bored in the base so that the reel can be anchored to the ground with a stake4 ,with a loop of string fastened to the upright below the crank1 the crank can be kept from turning1 if one does not wish to let out all of the kite-string4 ,make the base first1 then the uprights4 ,in the uprights1 it is more convenient to bore the #i_/af holes before the sides are planed slanting4 ,after the wheel pieces are joined in the manner explained on page #bd1 lay out the slanting lines on each arm while the joint is still together2 then take it apart and plane to the slanting lines4 ,hold each piece securely slantwise in the vise1 because one pair especially is apt to split from the notch outward4 ,when this planing is finished1 glue the joint and bore a #a_/b hole straight thru the center4 ,if convenient1 make the cross pieces in one long piece1 #bj1 planing off one corner flat 7see sectional drawing1 ,plate #cc7 within #a_/h of the two adjacent corners4 ,being careful to drive no brad into the #a_/b hole1 glue and nail these four cross pieces to one wheel4 ,then glue them to the other wheel and wind some string around tightly enough to hold this wheel while adjusting and nailing it4 ,it will require care to get the cross pieces square with the first wheel1 and the second wheel parallel with the first4 ,after the string is wound around to hold the second wheel1 measure the distance from wheel to wheel at the ends of all the arms4 ,the nailing can be done while one arm of the wheels is held in the vise4 ,the axle and handle should be glued and nailed to the crank4 ,now put the reel together1 not forgetting the washers inside the uprights1 and lock the wheels to the axle by drilling a hole for a #b nail thru cross piece1 wheel1 and axle4 ,illustration3 ,,kite ,,string ,,reel ,,plate #cc ,illustration3 ,,string ,,machine ,,plate #cd ,,string ,,machine--,,plate #cd4 ,on a machine like this1 one can twist bowstrings1 topstrings1 fish-lines1 silk cord for fancy work1 and any similar cord4 ,tho designed to be held on the floor or table with flat-irons1 clamps1 of course1 will hold it better4 ,make the tail piece first4 ,in the cross pieces of the tail piece are two screws #g_/h from the ends2 be careful to bore the holes large enough so the screws will not split them4 ,the edges of the lower cross piece must be sandpapered enough not to cut the elastic bands4 ,in order that the belt shall run on the center of the wheels in the head piece1 it is important to have the three axles parallel4 ,to make them so1 the two uprights must be clamped together while boring the #c_/h holes for the axles4 ,lest the spur of the bit split the uprights1 drill small holes at each center first4 ,do not nail the longer upright to the base until the belt runs well in both directions4 ,on a lathe1 the wheels and axles could easily be made of one piece2 lacking a lathe1 a big spool or curtain pole must be used4 ,plug the hole of the spool with a dowel1 then very accurately find its center and bore a #c_/h hole thru it4 ,saw it into three #e_/h pieces for the wheels4 ,glue these to the axles so that #a extends thru the taller upright4 ,a belt runs better on a wheel that is crowned1 that is1 slightly larger in the middle2 so the edges of these wheels must be pared #a_/cb1 making a gentle curve4 ,put the washers each side of the wheels1 then put the wheels in place in the taller upright1 and nail this to the triangular block4 ,pull a #e_/h leather belt tightly around the three wheels and sew the ends so that they butt together4 ,clamp the shorter upright in position and turn the upper axle to see if the belt runs well in both directions4 ,it will run true when all three axles are parallel1 so keep knocking the shorter upright from side to side or up and down until the belt does run true2 then bore holes for three screws to hold it to the triangular block4 ,make the crank and lock it to the upper axle with a #a_/b screw4 ,to twist a string1 set the two parts of the machine somewhat farther apart than the finished length desired1 put on as many threads1 from hooks on the tail piece to corresponding hooks on the head piece1 as will make the finished string the desired size4 ,observe how these separate threads were twisted1 and start the machine in the opposite way4 ,twist until the three strands kink readily when the head piece is brought nearer the tail piece4 ,the tighter these are twisted1 the harder the string will be4 7,soap rubbed on the inside of the belt may make the belt carry more power74 ,when these three strands are twisted enough1 remove the two lower ones from their hooks on the head piece to the upper hook4 ,twist in the opposite direction until the string kinks again1 and it is made4 ,if the three strands are waxed1 a stronger string will be made4 ,,windmill ,,force-,,pump--,,plate #ce4 ,if this pump is properly connected with an air chamber1 as explained later1 it will send a small stream of water some ten feet4 ,in a gale1 the windmill is strong enough1 in fact1 to force the valves from the glass tubes4 ,like any model of considerable mechanism1 this will require patience to get it in working order4 ,the post is made short for stability4 ,if it can be held in place firmly1 a trestlework tower like a real windmill might be built of stock #a_/b #a_/b for the corner posts and #a_/b #a_/h for the braces4 ,the post is slanting on two sides to fit the journals at the top4 ,it is fastened to the base with two #b screws4 ,make the wheel center #b-a_/h square1 and thru its center bore a #a_/d hole4 ,if it does not revolve true1 make another block and try again4 ,make the block octagonal by cutting off each corner #e_/h4 ,on each of the eight faces saw notches #a_/h wide and #e_/af deep into which the vanes will fit4 7,see page #fd on cutting notches47 ,make and glue the vanes in place and lay the wheel flat to dry4 ,procure three pieces of water-gage glass #b long1 #g_/af to #a_/b inside diameter4 ,glass tubes can be broken apart by filing a slight notch1 grasping the tube firmly each side of the notch1 and pulling and bending the tube away from the notch4 ,if the file starts a little break1 this will be comparatively easy1 if it does not1 file some more4 ,into two tubes little valves must be cemented4 ,these can be made of a firm piece of leather4 ,sole leather that is not too hard is best4 ,with knife or chisel1 pare two pieces on the cutting board to fit in the tubes4 ,the cement will make them water tight later4 ,push the sharp point of a penknife into the smooth side of the leather disk and make a circular cut1 as one would remove a speck from an apple1 but do not cut the flap completely out1 because it must be left hinged to the disk4 ,turn this flap up straight out of the way so as to be able to work a #a_/d hole thru the disk4 ,this can be punched1 drilled1 or cut out with a #a_/h chisel1 and finished with a penknife4 ,of course1 the edges of the flap should cover this hole completely4 ,the valve in the lowest tube should be cemented about #a_/b from the lower end with the flap up1 that in the horizontal tube about #c_/d from the outer end with the flap out4 ,illustration3 ,,windmill ,,force-,,pump ,,plate #ce ,to make sealing-wax sticky enough to cement these valves in the tubes1 melt one teaspoon of wax with one-half teaspoon of turpentine in a large spoon1 and allow it to cool4 ,break it in pieces small enough to go in the tubes4 ,put the valve in the tube a little to one side of its final position2 put in some of the wax mixture2 heat the tube in an alcohol flame1 rolling the tube till the wax begins to melt2 remove from the flame2 and when the wax is all melted1 push the valve to its final position with a pencil4 ,while it is cooling1 see that the wax does not flow into the valve4 ,all three tubes must have a piece of rubber tubing on the outside to serve as packing in the wooden block4 ,with an expansive bit1 holes can be bored in the block so that the rubber tubing will fit tightly4 ,lacking that1 bore a smaller hole and enlarge it with a round file4 ,the center of the vertical hole is somewhat to the left 7as viewed in ,plate #ce7 of the center of the block to allow the horizontal tube more support4 ,this will require the notch in the upright also to be to the left of the center4 ,after the holes are bored1 the pores of the wood must be filled with paraffin4 ,in a little dish1 melt some paraffin and put it into the holes with a rag tied to a stick4 ,when the holes are well covered1 drive the wax into the wood with an alcohol or candle flame held in the hole till the wood is fairly hot4 ,the outside of the block might well be treated in like manner4 ,it will be best to cement these tubes in their places4 ,melt a tablespoon of sealing wax with about as much turpentine4 ,with this1 not too hot1 build up a good fillet over the rubber tubing #a_/d1 perhaps1 on the glass tubes4 ,make a good fitting piston for the upper tube2 it must not slide hard 7oil it7 and yet it must be air tight4 ,to make the piston file two grooves #a_/b apart around and near the end of the piston rod4 ,wind a hummock of yarn between these grooves till it almost fills the tube1 then wrap a piece of soft cloth 7knitted underwear7 smoothly over the hummock1 tying it in each groove with thread4 ,lock the crank to the axle with a #a_/b screw4 ,adjust the axle and keep it in position with two leather washers locked to the axle just outside the journals4 ,clamp the block to the base1 adjust it in line with the crank1 and fasten it with two #a-a_/b screws up thru the base4 ,the last connection to make is between the crank and connecting-rod4 ,to make this1 raise the piston to its highest position1 and turn the crank to its lowest2 choose what seems the best point for the screw1 marking the point on crank and connecting-rod2 now lower the piston and raise the crank2 if the two points do not come together1 the screw should be placed half way between them4 ,this screw should be tight in the crank4 ,the wheel can now be glued to the axle or locked with a brad slanting from the front of the wheel center4 ,before they will work1 the valves must be made limber with water1 and to start the pump1 water may have to be put on each side of the valves4 ,water may be pumped to any height by fastening a pipe to the horizontal tube4 ,to obtain a steady stream1 like a fire-engine1 connect the horizontal tube with an air-tight bottle4 ,the pipe which goes into this bottle should reach just below the stopper4 ,the outlet pipe should nearly reach the bottom of the bottle1 and it should have a nozzle smaller than any other opening in the whole apparatus4 ,the bottle should be partly full of water4 ,quarter-inch glass tubing can be melted and shaped in an alcohol flame1 and1 if some rubber tubing is used as a connection1 the nozzle can be played anywhere4 ,,books for ,,boys ,especially ,helpful for the ,use of ,boys in their ,home ,shops ,,beginning ,,woodwork1 ,at ,home and in ,school4 ,by ,clinton ,s4 ,van,deusen4 ,a full and clear description in detail of the fundamental processes of elementary benchwork in wood4 ,this description is given thru directions for making a few simple1 useful articles1 suitable either for school or home problems4 ,the book contains more than one hundred original sketches and ten working drawings4 ,price1 #a4jj4 ,,manual ,,training ,,toys1 for the ,boys' ,workshop4 ,by ,harris ,w4 ,moore4 ,this book contains a collection of working drawings illustrating forty-two projects1 overflowing with boy interest4 ,it is a popular boys' book that is truly educational4 ,the projects are all new in the manual training shop4 ,the text gives instructions for making each project and treats of tools and tool processes4 ,price1 #a4jj4 ,the ,,construction and ,,flying of ,,kites4 ,by ,charles ,m4 ,miller4 ,a book of unusual interest to the boy4 ,it contains seven full-page plates of drawings of kites and fifteen figures--over forty kites shown4 ,details of construction are given and a kite tournament is described4 ,full of interesting suggestions4 ,price1 #bj cents4 ,,essentials of ,,woodworking4 ,by ,ira ,s4 ,griffith4 ,a textbook written especially for the use of grammar and high school students4 ,a clear and comprehensive treatment of woodworking tools1 materials1 and processes1 to supplement1 but not to take the place of the instruction given by the teacher4 ,the book does not contain a course of models2 it may be used with any course4 ,it is illustrated with photographs and numerous pen drawings4 ,price1 #a4jj4 ,,the ,,manual ,,arts ,,press ,,peoria1 ,,illinois ,,books for ,,boys ,the ,problems ,series of ,working ,drawings1 ,good for ,either ,home or ,school ,use ,,projects for ,,beginning ,,woodwork and ,,mechanical ,,drawing4 ,by ,ira ,s4 ,griffith4 ,a work book for the use of students in grammar grade classes4 ,it consists of working drawings and working directions4 ,the projects are such as have proven of exceptional service where woodworking and mechanical drawing are taught in a thoro1 systematic manner in the seventh and eighth grades4 ,the aim has been to provide successful rather than unique problems4 ,the fifty projects in the book have been selected and organized with the constant aim of securing the highest educational results4 ,the book is especially suited for use in connection with ,essentials of ,woodworking by the same author4 ,price1 #ge cents4 ,,problems in ,,woodworking4 ,by ,m4 ,w4 ,murray4 ,a convenient collection of good problems consisting of forty plates bound in heavy paper covers with brass fasteners4 ,each plate is a working drawing1 or problem in benchwork that has been successfully worked out by boys in one of the grades from seven to nine inclusive4 ,price1 #ge cents4 ,board covers1 #ie cents4 ,,advanced ,,projects in ,,woodwork4 ,by ,ira ,s4 ,griffith4 ,this book is similar to ,projects for ,beginning ,woodwork and ,mechanical ,drawing1 but is suited to high school needs4 ,it consists of fifty plates of problems and accompanying notes4 ,it is essentially a collection of problems in furniture making selected or designed with reference to school use4 ,on the plate with each working drawing is a good perspective sketch of the completed object4 ,in draftsmanship and refinement of design these problems are of superior quality4 ,it is in every respect an excellent collection4 ,price1 #a4jj4 ,,the ,,manual ,,arts ,,press ,,peoria1 ,,illinois ,,books for ,,boys ,the ,problems ,series of ,working ,drawings ,good for ,either ,home or ,school ,use ,,problems in ,,furniture ,,making4 ,by ,fred ,d4 ,crawshaw4 ,this book1 revised and enlarged1 consists of #dc full-page plates of working drawings suitable for use in grammar and high schools and #cf pages of text1 including chapters on design1 construction and finishes1 and notes on the problems4 ,each project is shown in its completed form by a perspective sketch4 ,loose leaf1 bound in board covers with brass fasteners4 ,price1 #a4jj4 ,,problems in ,,wood-,,turning4 ,by ,fred ,d4 ,crawshaw4 ,in the first place this is a book of problems--#be plates covering spindle1 faceplate1 and chuck turning4 ,in the second place it is a textbook on the science and art of wood-turning illustrated by fifty pen sketches4 ,it gives the mathematical basis for the cuts used in turning4 ,in the third place it is a helpful discussion of the principles of design as applied to objects turned in wood4 ,it is a clear1 practical and suggestive book on wood-turning4 ,price1 #hj cents4 ,board covers1 #a4jj4 ,,problems in ,,mechanical ,,drawing4 ,by ,charles ,a4 ,bennett4 ,with drawings made by ,fred ,d4 ,crawshaw4 ,this book consists of #hj plates and a few explanatory notes1 and is bound in heavy paper covers with brass fasteners4 ,its purpose is to furnish teachers of classes beginning mechanical drawing with a large number of simple1 practical problems4 ,these have been selected with reference to the formation of good habits in technique1 the interest of the pupils1 and the subjects generally included in a grammar and first-year high school course4 ,each problem given is unsolved and therefore in proper form to hand to the pupil for solution4 ,price1 #a4jj4 ,board covers1 #a4bj4 ,,the ,,manual ,,arts ,,press ,,peoria1 ,,illinois ,,books for ,,boys ,some ,choice ,books for ,home or ,school ,libraries ,,handwork in ,,wood4 ,by ,william ,noyes4 ,a handbook for teachers and a textbook for normal school and college students4 ,a comprehensive and scholarly treatise1 covering logging1 sawmilling1 seasoning and measuring1 hand tools1 wood fastenings1 equipment and care of the shop1 the common joints1 types of wood structures1 principles of joinery1 and wood finishing4 #cjd illustrations--excellent pen drawings and many photographs4 ,price1 #b4jj4 ,,wood and ,,forest4 ,by ,william ,noyes4 ,a companion volume to ,handwork in ,wood1 by the same author4 ,especially adapted as a reference book for teachers of woodworking4 ,not too difficult for use as a textbook for normal school and college students4 ,treats of wood1 distribution of ,american forests1 life of the forest1 enemies of the forest1 destruction1 conservation and uses of the forest1 with a key to the common woods by ,filibert ,roth4 ,describes #fg principal species of wood with maps of the habitat1 leaf drawings1 life size photographs and microphotographs of sections4 ,contains a general bibliography of books and articles on wood and forest4 ,profusely illustrated with photographs from the ,united ,states forest service and with pen and ink drawings by ,anna ,gausmann ,noyes and photographs by the author4 #cji pages4 ,price1 #c4jj4 ,,books on the ,,manual ,,arts4 ,a catalog listing and describing #bfj books on the manual arts1 including all the standard and the best of the recent publications4 ,it is an up-to-date bibliography and a valuable reference book for teachers1 librarians and all interested in manual1 industrial1 and vocational education4 ,mailed free on request4 ,,the ,,manual ,,arts ,,press ,,peoria1 ,,illinois