,,9 ,,!  ,,l& ,,( ,,temples  ,,by       
,,joseph ,,p5nell  ,illu/ration3        
colophon  ,,london3 ,,william ,,he9emann
     ,,joseph ,,p5nell',s ,,pictures ,,9
 ,,! ,,l& ,,( ,,temples     ,,joseph    
,,p5nell',s  ,,pictures ,,( ,,! ,,panama
 ,,canal4  ,,fif? ,,edition4            
,reproductions ( a s]ies ( ,li?ographs  
made by him on ! ,i/hmus ( ,panama1     
toge!r ) ,impressions & ,notes by !     
,arti/4 ,price #es4 net4  ,,! ,,life ,,(
 ,,james ,,mcneill ,,:i/l]  ,by ,e4 ,r4 
& ,j4 ,,p5nell4  ,fif? & ,revis$        
,edition1 ) #if pp4 ( ,illu/rations4    
,pott #dto4 ,price #abs4 #f;d4 net4     
,,london3 ,,william ,,he9emann4  ,copies
 ( ! li?ographs reproduc$ 9 ?is volume1 
limit$ to fifty pro(s ea*1 size #af by  
#bb 941 may be obta9$ ?r\gh ! ,publi%]1 
at #c #c #j net ea*4     ,,joseph       
,,p5nell',s ,,pictures ,,9 ,,! ,,l& ,,( 
,,temples  ,,reproductions ,,( ,a       
,,s]ies ,,( ,,li?ographs ,,made ,,by    
,,him ,,9 ,,! ,,l& ,,( ,,temples1       
,,m>*-,,june #aiac1 ,,toge!r ,,)        

,,impressions ,,& ,,notes ,,by ,,!      
,,arti/  ,illu/ration3 colophon         
,,london3 ,,william ,,he9emann          
,,philadelphia3 ,j4 ,b4 ,,lipp9cott ,,g4
  ,,copyright  ,,london3 ,,william      
,,he9emann4 #aiae4  ,,to ,r4 ,m4        
,,dawk9s  ,,late ,,director ,,( ,,!     
,,briti% ,,s*ool ,,at ,,a!ns ,,:o ,,%[$ 
,,me ,,:]e ,i ,,%\ld ,,f9d ,,! ,,temples
  ,,pr9t$ ,,9 ,,great ,,brita9 ,,by ,b4 
,,clay ,,& ,,sons1 ,,ltd41 ,,brunswick  
,,/reet1 ,,/am=d ,,/reet1 ,s4,e41 ,,&   
,,bungay1 ,,suffolk4     ,,notes--,,on  
,,my ,,li?ographs ,,9 ,,! ,,l& ,,(      
,,temples   ,i ,,w5t to ,greece = two   
reasons4 ,fir/1 because ,i want$ to see 
,greece & :at rema9$ ( h] glory--to see 
if ! greate/ "w ( ! pa/ impress$ me z   
mu* z ! greate/ "w ( ! pres5t--& to try 
to f9d out :i* 0 ! great]--! m inspir+4 
,& second1 ,i w5t because ,i 0 told by a
 ,bo/on au?ority t ,i 0 no?+ b a ragtime
 sket*]1 c\ldn't see ,greek art &       
c\ldn't draw x if ,i did4  ,i h be5     
!re--& did :at ,i saw 9 my own way4 ,to 

me ,greece 0 wond]ful & 0 beautiful1 b  
anyone c see t--& c rave ov] x )        
appropriate quotations f appropriate    
au?ors4 ,i "k no ,greek & h sc>ce read a
 translation4 ,i say ?is regretfully--,i
 wi% ,i _h--,i %\ld h se5 m4 ,i "k1     
h[ev]1 if ,i _h n be=e se5 ! greate/ art
 ( ! re/ ( ,europe1 ,i c\ld n h be5 s   
mov$ z ,i 0 by :at ,i saw 9 ! ,l& (     
,temples1 ! l& :5ce we h d]iv$ mo/ ( our
 ideas1 ideals1 & inspirations4  ,i drew
 ! ?+s t int]e/$ me--& x 01 & is1 a     
great delight to me to be told by ^? :o 
h1 "s ( !m1 sp5t _! lives /udy+ ,greeks 
& ,greece1 t ,i h giv5 ! "* ( ! c\ntry4 
,:at impress$ me mo/ 0 ! great feel+ ( !
 ,greeks = site 9 plac+ _! temples &    
%r9es 9 ! l&scape--s t !y n only became 
a "p ( x1 b x leads up to !m4 ,& ?\gh ! 
same ar*itectural =ms 7 us$1 ea* temple 
0 s plac$ t x told f af> by sea or l&1 a
 goal = pilgrims--a %r9e = wor%ipp]s to 
draw ne> to--yet ea* _h a "* ( its      
own--always ! same1 yet ev] diff]+4 ,i  
"k1 ,i am sorry to say1 little (        

proportion1 ( scale1 ( heights1 ( l5g?s1
 b :at ,i saw1 ) my own eyes1 0 ! way ^!
 monum5ts 7 "p ( ! c\ntry--nev] /uck    
ab\t anyh[--always compos$--always      
diff]5t--& !y 7 built ) gr& ideas (     
composition1 impressiv5ess1 &           
arrangem5t4 ,has !re be5 any *ange 9 !  
black =e/ be=e ,aeg9a--! 8w9e d>k sea0  
at ,sunium--! 8%9+ rocks0 at ,delphi--! 
grim cliffs ( ! ,acropolis8--^! prove 9 
_! v>i\s ways t ! ,greeks 7 great       
arti/s4  ,^! 7 ! ?+s ,i saw4 ,_h ,i kn[n
 m ,i might h se5 less--= x seems to me 
t mo/ arti/s :o h gone to ,greece h be5 
s impress$ ) :at !y h be5 told to see1  
t--!re are1 ( c\rse1 great              
exceptions--!y h look$ at ! l& ) a      
foot-rule1 a translation1 & a diction>y1
 & !y h (t5 be5 int]f]$ ) by ^! aids4 ,i
 w5t ignorant ( :]e to g--or :at to see4
 ,:5 ,i got to ,a!ns ,i fell among      
fri5ds1 :o answ]$ my only "q t 8,i want$
 to see temples t /ood up40 ,!y told me 
:]e !y 7--& !re !y 74 ,& = ?is          
in=mation1 :i* result$ 9 my see+ ^!     

sites & mak+ ^! li?ographs1 ,i want to  
?ank _m p1 b above all ,mr4 ,r4 ,m4     
,dawk9s1 late ,director ( ! ,briti%     
,s*ool at ,a!ns1 :o1 n[ t he has se5 !  
"w1 agrees ) o!rs t x has some?+ ( ! "* 
& romance ( ! c\ntry4 ,if x has ^?      
qualities1 !y are :at ,i w5t out to     
see--& hav+ se5 !m--& ,i h tri$ to      
express !m--,i "k ,i c see m1 if ,i h ! 
*ance 9 ! future 9 ! ,wond] ( ,"w ( my  
"t1 = 9 our great works to-day we are   
only c>ry+ on ! tradition ( ! great     
works ( ! pa/4 ,i h se5 bo?1 & x is s4  
,,joseph ,,p5nell4     ,,li/ ,,(        
,,illu/rations  ,,! ,,illu/rations ,,/>t
 ,,at ,,taorm9a1 ,,proce$ ,,ar\nd       
,,sicily--,,!nce ,,to ,,italy1 ,,& ,,are
 ,,cont9u$ ,,9 ,,greece4  ,,aetna ,,ov] 
,,taorm9a ,i  ,,! ,,!atre1 ,,sege/a ,,ii
  ,,! ,,temple ,,ov] ,,! ,,ca,,on1      
,,sege/a ,,iii  ,,f ,,temple ,,to       
,,temple1 ,,girg5ti ,,iv  ,,! ,,columns 
,,( ,,ca/or ,,& ,,pollux1 ,,girg5ti ,v  
,,sunrise ,,beh9d ,,! ,,temple ,,(      
,,concord1 ,,girg5ti ,,vi  ,,! ,,temple 

,,by ,,! ,,sea2 ,,temple ,,( ,,concord1 
,,girg5ti ,,vii  ,,! ,,temple ,,(       
,,concord ,,on ,,! ,,wall ,,f ,,)91     
,,girg5ti ,,viii  ,,! ,,temple ,,(      
,,concord ,,on ,,! ,,wall ,,f ,,)\t1    
,,girg5ti ,,ix  ,,columns ,,( ,,!       
,,temple ,,( ,,juno1 ,,girg5ti ,x  ,,!  
,,temples ,,on ,,! ,,wall1 ,,girg5ti    
,,xi  ,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,juno ,,f       
,,bel[1 ,,girg5ti ,,xii  ,,pae/um4      
,,morn+ ,,mi/ ,,xiii  ,,pae/um4 ,,ev5+  
,,xiv  ,,cor9? ,,t[>ds ,,! ,,gulf ,,xv  
,,acro-,,cor9? ,,f ,,cor9? ,,xvi        
,,olympia ,,f ,,! ,,hillside ,,xvii  ,,!
 ,,temple ,,( ,,jupit]4 ,,ev5+ ,,xviii  
,,! ,,acropolis ,,f ,,! ,,temple ,,(    
,,jupit]1 ,,a!ns ,,xix  ,,! ,,way ,,up  
,,! ,,acropolis ,,xx  ,,d[n ,,f ,,!     
,,acropolis ,,xxi  ,,sunrise ,,ov] ,,!  
,,acropolis ,,xxii  ,,/orm ,,beh9d ,,!  
,,acropolis ,,xxiii  ,,! ,,propylaea1   
,,a!ns ,,xxiv  ,,! ,,portico ,,( ,,!    
,,p>!non ,,xxv  ,,! ,,p>!non ,,f ,,!    
,,gateway ,,xxvi  ,,! ,,fa,,ade ,,( ,,! 
,,p>!non4 ,,sunset ,,xxvii  ,,! ,,fall5 

,,column1 ,,a!ns ,,xxviii  ,,! ,,little 
,f,,te1 ,,a!ns ,,xxix  ,,! ,,great      
,f,,te1 ,,a!ns ,,xxx  ,,! ,,temple ,,(  
,,nike1 ,,a!ns ,,xxxi  ,,! ,,temple ,,( 
,,nike ,,f ,,m>s ,,hill1 ,,a!ns ,,xxxii 
,,! ,,odeon1 ,,a!ns ,,xxxiii  ,,!       
,,/reet ,,( ,,! ,,tombs1 ,,a!ns ,,xxxiv 
,,eleusis4 ,,! ,,pavem5t ,,( ,,!        
,,temple ,,xxxv  ,,aeg9a ,,xxxvi        
,,aeg9a ,,on ,,its ,,m\nta9 ,,top       
,,xxxvii  ,,! ,,%9+ ,,rocks1 ,,delphi   
,,xxxviii  ,,! ,,treasury ,,( ,,a!ns1   
,,delphi ,,xxxix  ,,! ,,w9e ,,d>k ,,sea4
 ,,sunium ,,xl     ,,introduction4   ,,x
 is a happy ?+ t ! ,greek race came into
 be+1 because !y %[$ ! _w once at lea/  
:at is meant by a man4 ,! ideal ,greek  
virtue  means1 t all p>ts & faculties ( 
! man are 9 proportion1 ea* tra9$ to    
p]fection & all "u control ( ! w3 body1 
m9d1 & _s1 ea* has its due place4       
,else:]e we see "o ( ^! 9 excess4 ,?us !
 ,indian philosoph] so>s 9 ! highe/     
regions ( speculation1 & sees great     
tru?s1 b !y intoxicate him3 he does n   

br+ !m to ! te/ ( daily life1 nor does  
he *eck !m by reason4 ,! ,hebrew prophet
 has 8 vision ( "o ,god1 & 9 rapt       
devotion pro/rates himself bel[ !       
dignity ( manhood4 ,! ,roman deals )    
practical politics & mat]ial            
civilisation2 he has a g5ius = organiz+1
 & = comb9+ ! rule ( ! be/ ) ! fre$om & 
direct influ5ce ( all3 he1 h[ev]1       
despises ! _s & ! imag9ation4 ,9 our own
 day1 :at is call$ sci5ce arrogates     
almo/ div9e hon\rs to ! faculty =       
measur+ & obs]v+1 & neglects bo? !      
religi\s in/9ct & ! philosoph]'s !oric2 
nor is ?is ideal less deadly ?an !      
,roman's to imag9ation & ! s5se (       
beauty4 ,9 mod]n times also1 ea* p]son  
/rives to excel 9 "s "o specialty1 m5tal
 or bodily2 & if !re is any feel+ at all
 = proportion x is ! proportion ( a     
gr\p1 :ile ! memb]s ( ! gr\p are 1      
excessive 9 "o way & defective 9 ! o!rs4
 ,b ! ,greek aim$ at p]fect proportion =
 ! man2 & 8 ideal 01 t ! man's w %\ld   
use all ! faculties to "s wor?y end4 ,8 

body is to be tra9$ by music & gymna/ic3
 ! aim ( ! fir/ be+ grace & beauty2 ( ! 
second1 /r5g?2 ( ! :ole1 heal? & joy 9  
all bodily uses4 ,8 m9d is to be tra9$  
by poetry1 oratory1 & philosophy2 8 _s  
by ! wor%ip ( ! gods1 9 :i* all t 0 be/ 
9 8 life is conc5trat$ into a noble     
ritual4 ,su* w\ld be ! life ( ! ord9>y  
,greek2 ! great] intellects w\ld look   
beyond ! ritual to ! ess5ce2 & we h     
ample evid5ce to %[ t _! ideals 7 z high
 z any t h be5 kn[n to o!r peoples4     
,aes*ylus dealt ) ! same problems t     
baffl$ ! ,hebrew prophets1 div9e ju/ice 
& m]cy1 & ! immutable moral law2        
,plato's speculation took him into      
regions :]e logic & =mal philosophy _h  
to be ca/ aside2 ,pheidias by 8 art add$
 a new dignity to godhead4#a  ,n[h]e is 
! ,greek 1 _! s5se ( re/ra9t &          
proportion1 %[n bett] ?an 9 _!          
ar*itecture3 & ?is bo? 9 ! me?od ( gr[? 
& 9 ! f9al results4 ,! ,doric /yle has  
gr[n out ( a wood5 build+4 ,:5 & h[ !   
fir/ /eps 7 tak51 we d n "k1 nor :e!r ! 

,doric be directly desc5d$ f ! ,myc5an  
/yle1 z ,p]rot & ,*ipiez w h x4 ,!re is 
?is great diff]5ce3 t ! ,myc5an &       
,cretan columns are l a ,doric column   
rev]s$1 ! ?ick end upmo/1 & !y %[ none (
 ! ,greek ref9em5ts to :i* we %all come 
lat]4 ,a simpl] orig9 is possible3 =    
to-day ! travell] may see1 9 ! v]&ah (  
"s wayside cottage 7,hom]'s ' 7 a       
primitive ,doric column1 "s b>e         
tree-trunk ) a *unk ( itself = capital1 
support+ a primitive ar*itrave ( ! same 
sort4 ,9 ! ,doric ord]1 o!r traces (    
woodwork are left 9 ! /one1 su* z !     
triglyphs1 or beam-ends1 ) r\nd pegs    
b5ea?1 or ! g\g$ flut+s ( ! column      
itself4 ,& we h direct evid5ce 9 !      
hi/ory ( ! ,olympian ,h]um2 :]e we are  
told t ! columns 7 once ( wood1 & t /one
 columns 7 put 9 place ( ^! z !y decay$1
 "o ( ! anci5t oak columns be+ pres]v$  
d[n to ! "t ( ,pausanias4 ,! e>ly       
ar*itects w\ld seem to h be5 n]v\s z to 
h[ mu* weight /one w\ld be>1 s t _!     
columns are v ?ick & set close toge!r2 9

 fact1 less ?an "o diamet] ap>t4 ,by    
degrees !y le>nt f exp]i5ce1 b ! *anges 
7 sl[ & c>eful4 ,! plan ( ! temple      
always rema9$ ! same1 & !re is little   
v>iation 9 ! numb] ( pill>s at ea* end1 
or 9 any ( ! g5]al features4 ,z 9       
/atu>y1 "h also !y kept to _! tradition 
z mu* z !y c\ld1 & got _! effects ) !   
lea/ possible *ange4 ,b :at effects6    
,comp>e ! heavy masses ( ,cor9? or ,p/um
 ) ! airy grace ( ! ,p>!non1 & measure !
 inf9ite delicacy ( ! *anges :i* produce
 ?is effect4 ,! build]s f\nd out t      
/raight l9es d n look /raight1 & t if ! 
l9es ( a build+ d n look /raight1 !     
build+ looks z if x is go+ to topple ov]
 & fall4 ,a column :i* decreases upw>ds 
9 /raight l9es looks to ! eye concave2 &
 ?is illusion !y tri$ to correct by mak+
 ! columns bulge f ! top ab\t "o ?ird   
d[n1 & !n decreas$ ?is curve t[>ds !    
bottom4 ,! fir/ attempts gave too mu*   
convex curv+1 b ?is aga9 0 correct$     
until ! ar*itect f\nd p]fection3 yet !  
diff]5ces measur$ 9 in*es are small4    

,aga91 ea* column 0 incl9$ slightly     
inw>ds1 because a column t /&s q /raight
 looks z ?\gh x 7 incl9$ out-w>ds2 & !  
/ylobate1 ^u :i* ! columns /&1 is curv$ 
f ea* end upw>ds to ! c5tre4 ,o!r       
adju/m5ts 7 necess>y 9 ! abacus &       
capital1 to make all h>moni\s2 & we may 
say t !re 0 h>dly a /raight l9e 9 !     
build+4 ,sculpture & ornam5t 7 adju/$ to
 ! eye 9 ! same way2 & x w\ld seem t !  
effect ( ! :ole build+ also 0 judg$ n   
alone1 b 9 connection ) ! l9es ( !      
l&scape--t backgr\nd ( hills1 always    
noble b nev] ov]-p[]+1 :i* is f\nd all  
ov] ! ,greek _w4 ,= in/ance1 9 ! ,p>!non
 c]ta9 m9ute corrections 7 made because 
( ! way 9 :i* ! sun's rays fell on x4   
,^! adju/m5ts h be5 measur$ &           
tabulat$--or at lea/ a great _m ( !m1 = 
!re are d\btless _m we d n notice1 & !  
build+ is a ru9--b !y %[ a delicacy (   
s5se :i* is no?+ %ort ( miracul\s4 ,^!  
build]s1 h[ev]1 7 n only arti/s )       
miracul\s ke5ness ( s5se1 b memb]s ( a  
true trade-guild1 ) its accumulat$      

wisdom h&$ d[n f g5]ation to g5]ation1 &
 !mselves 7 m5 :o work$ ) _! own h&s4   
,nei!r c\ld !y h built ! ,p>!non ) books
 ( log>i?ms 9 an (fice2 nor c we ev] h  
noble build+s aga9 s long z ! ar*itect &
 ! build] are n "o4 ,e common workman   
mu/ h _h 8 %>e ( ?is traditional skill4 
,inde$1 inscriptions lately discov]$ %[ 
t ! build+ ( ! ,p>!non w5t on aft]      
,pheidias 0 bani%$2 s t ! sculptures :i*
 are ! wond] ( ! _w mu/ h be5 done 9 "p 
at lea/ )\t _! design]4 ,b ev5 )\t su*  
evid5ce1 ! p]fection ( e detail (       
build+1 ! fitt+ ( ! jo9ts1 ! /r5g? &    
f9i% ( ea* "p1 is en\gh to %[ :at !     
,a!nian workman 0 l4    #a ,qu9tilian1  
,in/4 ,orat4 xii41 #aj1 #i4 ,olympium 9 
,elide       ,jovem 444 cuius pul*ritudo
 adiecisse aliquid etiam recept         
relligioni       videtur3 adeo maie/as  
op]is deum quavit4  ,b we mu/ rememb]   
also t ! /ones t rema9 are only ru9s4   
,ev5 9 ^! we may trace _m ( ! p]fections
 ( ! anci5t arti/2 b if we c\ld see !m z
 !y 71 we %\ld see1 n /ones blea*$ &    

wea!r$1 b build+s respl5d5t ) col\r &   
gold4 ,columns1 capitals1 ar*itraves1   
all 7 a blaze ( col\r1 decorat$ )       
graceful patt]ns & pa9t$ to mat* ! blue 
sea & ! gold5 sunlight4 ,& n[ = u       
,sunium is a :ite gho/ l ! light ( !    
moon1 ! ,p>!non a rose 9 decay4  ,we may
 n n[ feel ! want ( :at is lo/4 ,! hills
 once cov]$ ) =e/ trees are b>e1 !      
c\ntryside is untill$ & empty1 & ^! ru9s
 are inve/$ ) a s5tim5tal *>m 9 ! ?\ght 
( :at has be5 lo/4 ,! travell] is 9 !   
mood ( ,sulpicius z he consoles ,cic]o =
 8 daught]'s dea?4 8,return+ f ,asia1 z 
my voyage took me f ,aeg9a t[>ds ,meg>a1
 ,i began to survey ! regions r\nd ab\t3
 beh9d me 0 ,aeg9a1 be=e me ,meg>a1 to !
 "r ,peiraeus1 to ! left ,cor9?1 all    
cities at "o "t prosp]\s & fl\ri%+1 b n[
 !y lay prone & ru9$ be=e my eyes4 ,& ,i
 began ?us to pond] )9 myself3 #8,ah6   
%all we frail creatures res5t ! dea? (  
"o ( ourselves1 see+ t our life mu/ ne$s
 be full %ort1 :5 9 "o place s _m dead  
cities lie be=e u8'0 ,inde$ ! ,greek    

cities are mo/ aptly comp>$ to humanity4
 ,!re nev] 0 any?+ gr&iose ab\t !m1 no?+
 mon/r\s l ! empire ( ,*9a1 no desire to
 ?ru/ ,greek mann]s or religions ^u !   
re/ ( ! _w1 no attempt to monopolize    
trade ev5 by hone/ me?ods4 ,!y wi%$ to  
live & let live1 lov$ & hat$ fi]cely1 b 
l m52 & if !y mu/ die !y did n :9e ab\t 
x--inde$1 = _! c\ntry's sake !y held x  
glori\s to die4 ,& n[ !y are gone1 & _! 
place kn[s !m no m1 no "o c feel t t\* (
 triumph t ,%elley felt ov] 8 ,ozym&ias4
 ,!y h left beh9d !m ev]y:]e a poignant 
regret1 su* z "o feels = a v de> fri5d  
gone = ev]4 ,mo/ /rong is ?is feel+ :5  
our /eps w&] ov] "s desolate spot1 once 
a popul\s city1 su* z ,p/um or ,myndos4 
,i m5tion ,myndos because !re ! contra/ 
is mo/ vividly br\ght out by ! second   
idyll ( ,!ocritus4 ,!re is ! old h>b\r1 
!re is ! r+ ( ! city walls a mile       
across1 & ! :ole space betwe5 is        
bru%wood & /ones4 ,yet f ?is city sail$ 
to ,cos opposite ! hot-blood$ y\? :om   
,simai?a lov$1 ^: /ory is told 9 !      

poet's words ( passion4 ,& ^! cities1   
once s full ( life & happ9ess1 are a    
des]t n[4 ,ev5 ! new ,greece1 :i* rose f
 ! a%es ( ! old n a hundr$ ye>s ago1 :i*
 has sprung into new life & hon\r )9 !  
la/ few mon?s1 _c console u = ! ,greece 
t is gone4 ,! quick intellig5ce is /ill 
"h1 ! c\rage1 ! idealism2 b ,greece c   
h>dly escape ! corruption ( ! mod]n _w1 
) its grasp+ aft] weal?2 & ! s9c]ity ( !
 anci5t _s exi/s *iefly among/ peasants 
& fi%]m54 ,a false & p$antic way ( ?\ght
 is spread+ f ! s*ools & ! newspap]s1   
:i* mu/ spoil ! p unless ! ef=ts ( a few
 wise & longsight$ m5 %all prevail4  ,! 
pictures 9 ?is volume foll[ r\ghly !    
hi/ory ( ! ,doric /yle4 ,9 ,olympia lies
 ! floor ( ! ,h]um1 mo/ anci5t ( all    
exi/+ ,greek temples1 built be=e #ajjj  
,b4,c4 ,unhappily ?is view tells u no?+ 
( :at x look$ l3 e>?quake & flood1 & !  
h& ( man1 h done all !y c\ld to de/roy4 
,! temples 9 ,sicily & ,magna ,grcia1 ) 
,cor9?1 belong to ! e>lie/ /age kn[n to 
u4 ,cor9? 0 built ab\t #fej2 ! temples (

 ,a!na at ,syracuse1 n[ ! ca!dral1 & (  
,zeus at ,sel9us 7:i* are n repres5t$   
"h7 are z old or old]4 ,sege/a comes    
next1 9 ! e>ly six? c5tury2 & 9 ! same  
c5tury temples at ,girg5ti 7,agrig5tum71
 ,aeg9a1 & ,p/um4 ,! temple ( ,zeus at  
,olympia 0 built betwe5 #dfi & #deg1 !  
,p>!non #ded-dch1 ,sunium & ,eleusis    
ab\t ! same "t1 & two build+s at ,p/um4 
,! !atres belong to a lat] date1 & !    
,cor9?ian temple ( ,zeus ,olympian at   
,a!ns1 begun by ,peisi/ratus1 0 n f9i%$ 
until ! "t ( ,hadrian4  ,olympia is !   
epitome ( ! ,greek race1 z ! =um is ( ! 
,roman dom9ion3 ! ,roman ideal be+ law1 
ord]1 & gov]nm5t2 ! ,greek1 all ! p[]s (
 man at _! be/1 us$ & enjoy$ 9 ! holy   
prec9ct ( _! great ,god4 ,! diff]5ce is 
%[n at once1 9 t ! ,olympian assembly 0 
en=c$ by no lawgiv]1 b ! volunt>y ga!r+ 
( m5 ( "o blood1 :o = a set "t laid     
aside all _! qu>rels1 & rememb]$ t !y 7 
m>k$ (f by a great gulf f all o!r m54   
,!y came = no mat]ial ga93 _! prize 0 n 
dom9ion & p[]1 nor weal? & trade1 b !   

cr[n ( wild olive & glory incorruptible4
 ,elis1 a /ate small & insignificant    
politically1 _h ! hon\r ( presid+ ov] ^!
 games2 no man might compete save ^? (  
pure ,hell5ic blood1 & no woman might   
approa* !m4 ,& "h1 e f\r ye>s1 f a "t   
be=e ! beg9n+ ( hi/ory1 ! m5 ( ,greece  
met1 k+s & pot5tates compet+ ) private  
m51 high & l[1 ri* & poor1 all ackn[l$g+
 ! "o tie great] ?an all o!rs4 ,!       
celebrations la/$ all ?r\gh ! glori\s   
days ( ,greece1 & until ! glory (       
,greece _h long dep>t$1 & !y 7 aboli%$ =
 ev] 9 #cid ,a4,d4 by ,!odosius4 ,art & 
lit]ature =m$ no "p ( ! conte/s1 :i* 7  
ne>ly all a?letic2 b pa9t]s & o!r arti/s
 exhibit$ _! works !re1 & x 0 common =  
orators & philosoph]s to recite3        
,h]odotus is said to h read 8 hi/ory at 
! fe/ival4  ,! picture is tak5 f ! small
 hill ( ,kronos3 we look ov] ! site (   
,h]a's temple to ! great temple ( ,zeus4
 ,to ! left1 out ( sight1 is ! entrance 
to ! racec\rse4 ,j b5ea? u1 "u ! hill1  
is a r[ ( small %r9es call$ ,treasuries1

 :i* mighty /ates & mon>*s _h built to  
conta9 _! own *ief (f]+s4 ,9 ! di/ance  
is ! riv] ,alpheius4 ,we _c imag9e h[   
?is pla9 look$ :5 x 0 ! encampm5t (     
?\s&s1 cov]$ ) boo?s1 & full ( goodly m5
 & horses2 ! cr[ds1 ! processions1 !    
fea/+s1 litany & sacrifice2 b e man mu/ 
feel ! same ?rill z :5 he /&s 9 ,we/m9/]
 ,hall1 or ,/4 ,sophia at ,con/ant9ople3
 = "h h pass$ all ! great m5 ( ! ,greek 
race4  ,if ! games %[ ! physical side ( 
! ,greeks1 ! !atre above all %[s !      
intellectual4 ,:ile !y inv5t$1 &        
p]fect$1 ne>ly all k9ds ( lit]>y art1 x 
is ! !atre t t\*$ _! life mo/ closely1 &
 mo/ fully gave scope = _! g5ius4 ,?is  
also grew out ( religion1 & 0 always a  
"p ( _! religion4 ,b ! ,greek gods 7 no 
puritans4 ,!y exact$ awe & wor%ip1 & !y 
puni%$ ! impi\s2 b !y 7 g5ial good      
fell[s1 :o might be ?\ght1 )\t          
blasphemy1 to %>e 9 ! happ9ess ( _!     
p--inde$1 took x 9 good "p :5 !y 7 !    
subject ( rollick+ je/s4 ,9 ! !atre1    
,aes*ylus f\nd room = 8 pr(\nd religi\s 

feel+1 ,euripides = 8 scepticism1       
,sophocles = a mirror ( ! m9d ( man1    
,ari/ophanes = 8 political & social     
satire & 8 m]ry fun4 ,e t[n & ev5 hamlet
 mu/ h its !atre4 ,a suitable place c\ld
 be f\nd almo/ any:]e 9 ! hill c\ntry--t
 is1 9 almo/ all p>ts ( ,greece         
prop]--be=e any build+s ne$$ to be put  
up4 ,!n ! hillsides 7 cut into seats1 z 
at ,argos & ,sege/a1 or seats rang$     
ar\nd 9 a semicircle1 & c>ri$ on :5 x 0 
necess>y by means ( reta9+ walls4 ,bel[ 
!m 0 a r\nd space = danc+1 & beyond ?is 
! /age4 ,!re is a controv]sy :e!r !     
,greeks ev] us$ a rais$ /age be=e !     
,roman conque/2 probably !y did1 b at   
any rate all exi/+ !atres _h !m4        
,vitruvius 7:o wrote ab\t #bj ,a4,d47   
says t ! ,greek /age 0 high] & n>r[] ?an
 ! ,roman2 & ! /age at ,taorm9a has be5 
built1 or rebuilt1 9 ! ,roman way4  ,x  
is prop] to say ?is1 b ! onlook] w ?9k  
little n[ ( ! /age1 or inde$ ( ! actors 
& ! play1 9 view ( "o ( ^? sc5es :i* c  
nev] be =gott54 ,! sight ( ,etna ov] !  

/age1 ) 8 roll+ /eam1 absorbs ! :ole =ce
 ( imag9ation4 ,etna is trem5d\s4 ,b5ea?
 ,etna ,hephai/os _h "o ( 8 =ges1 z at  
,lip>a1 ,imbros1 & ,lemnos2 & t smoke y 
see %[s t 8 workm5 are =g+ ! ?und]-bolts
 ( ,zeus4 ,! v "n ( ,volcano is         
,hephai/os himself4 ,or is x ! giant    
,typhoeus1 defeat$ by ,zeus 9 ! battle (
 gods & giants1 & buri$ b5ea? ! m\nta91 
:o by 8 /ruggles causes ! e>? ?us to    
heave1 & ^! fi]y /reams to p\r =?8 ,:at 
wond] t ! pi\s made (f]+s ( inc5se at ! 
top6 ,0 x really true t ,emp$ocles1 t   
great philosph] & heal]1 ^: intellectual
 pride seems almo/ to claim div9e       
hon\rs1 ca/ himself into ! crat]1 t he  
might seem to h be5 swept away by !     
gods8 ,probably x 0 n true3 b ! /ory %[s
 h[ ! m\nta9 work$ on m5's imag9ations4 
,if ! !atre ( ,sege/a has no ,etna beh9d
 x1 ! surr\nd+s to ! eye are 9 o!r ways 
gr&4 ,x is seat$ ^u ! acropolis hill1   
:5ce a view c be tak5 at once ( t corn] 
( ,sicily :i* 0 held by ! my/]i\s       
,elymians1 ) _! citadel & sanctu>y (    

,eryx4 ,sege/a 0 f\nd$ by a p :o want$  
protection1 & fe>$ ! sea4 ,b1 l ! re/ ( 
,sicily1 x came "u ,greek influ5ce2 &   
its build+s1 ! two temples & ! !atre1   
are ,greek4 ,?is small t[n has play$ a  
"p 9 hi/ory3 x 0 ! bone ( cont5tion :i* 
l$ ,a!ns to int]f]e ) ,syracuse1 & s on 
to h] ru94 ,! columns ( ! temple are    
unf9i%$1 ! flut+ has nev] be5 done4 ,!re
 is some?+ t moves ! sympa?y 9 ^!       
unf9i%$ places4 ,no d\bt ! city 0       
ov]:elm$ 9 "s cata/rophe1 :i* p]haps    
left x q desolate 9 ! old cruel way4 ,s 
! blocks ( ! ,p9aco!ca on ! ,a!nian     
acropolis /ill keep ! knobs :i* 7 us$ 9 
m\nt+ !m2 !y 7 nev] cut (f1 = ,a!ns     
fell4 ,s1 mo/ /rik+ ( all1 !re lies 9 ! 
qu>ry ne> ,baalbek an enorm\s block (   
/one1 sev5ty-sev5 feet long by fifte5 & 
f\rte51 squ>$ & ready1 "o end tilt$ =   
mov+2 b x 0 nev] mov$3 !re x has la9    
p]haps = ?ree ?\s& ye>s1 & !re x w lie  
till ! _w ends4  ,girg5ti1 ,agrig5tum1  
,akragas1 call$ by ,p9d>   1 faire/ (   
mortal cities2 l(ty ,akragas1 9         

,virgil's words1 spread+ h] walls s     
wide1 "m ( high-spirit$ horses--        
8,arduus inde ,acragas o/5tat maxima    
longe      ,mo5ia1 magnanimum quondam   
g5]ator equorum0--  al?\gh late f\nd$ 9 
,greek hi/ory 7,b4,c4 #ehb71 is set on a
 hilltop l "s primaeval acropolis4 ,two 
rocky hills1 ) a space ( level l&       
betwe51 7 enclos$ )9 a wall six miles   
r\nd2 bel[ ?is ! l& slopes g5tly to !   
sea2 ! :ole lies betwe5 two riv]s4 ,!   
exi/+ rema9s1 & ! mod]n t[n1 lie on "o (
 ! two hills4 ,akragas calls up only "o 
"n f ! memory4 ,phal>is ! ,tyrant & 8   
braz5 bull4 ,b ,emp$ocles 0 born "h4 ,! 
great temple ( ,zeus ,polieus1 :i*      
,phal>is 0 said to h built1 has p]i%$1 &
 ^? t rema9 _c be c]ta9ly id5tifi$4 ,"o 
is call$ aft] ,concord1 b ! ,lat9 "n _c 
h prop]ly belong$ to x4 ,! pictures "h  
%[ "s ( ! wond]ful effects1 :i* v>y f   
h\r to h\r 9 ?is l& ( col\r & sunlight4 
,b ! glory ( ,girg5ti is ! gr\p+ ( its  
rema9s3 wall1 temples1 & rocks4 ,if we  
c\ld see ! city z x 01 x may well h be5 

4 ,b 9 #djf1 ! ,c>?ag9ians desc5d$ ^u x1
 & />v$ out ! p4 ,all :o c\ld g migrat$ 
to ,gela2 ! re/ 7 massacr$1 & ! city    
sack$4 ,f ?is bl[ x nev] recov]$1 al?\gh
 x 0 aft]w>ds inhabit$4  ,p/um1 ! ,greek
 ,poseidonia1 is "o ( ^? cities t h no  
hi/ory2 at lea/1 ?is city play$ no great
 "p 9 anci5t hi/ory & gave ! _w no great
 m54 ,b ,p/um 0 n happy4 ,x _h its day1 
f ! f\ndation 9 ! sev5? c5tury = "s two 
hundr$ ye>s2 b x fell e>ly into ! h&s ( 
! b>b>ic ,lucanians4 ,aft] ?is x exi/$1 
b x nev] became great4 ,we "k ,p/um =   
its roses1 bif]i ros>ia ,p/i1 :i* fl[]  
twice a ye> 9 ,may & ,novemb]2 & until  
lately1 = its lonel9ess & desolation4 ,n
 a liv+ s\l 0 !re 9 ! circuit ( ! city  
walls1 no?+ b a b>e pla9 ) hundr$s (    
fl[]+ grasses1 & ! great temples 9 _!   
gr&eur4 ,all its *>m is gone n[3 a      
factory /a9s ! sky ) its smoke1 & !     
mod]n _w1 ^: god is its belly1 has put  
its f\l m>k ^u ! quietude ( ,p/um4 ,^?  
:o saw ,p/um :5 x 0 "o ( ! mo/          
impressive sights 9 ! _w1 w be c>eful n 

to g ?i!r aga94  ,cor9?1 on ! o!r h&1   
takes u back to ! he>t ( ! anci5t _w4 ,f
 "t immemorial ,cor9? 0 a great place4  
,x lay on ! high-road ( ! seas1 9 ! "t  
:5 voyag]s hugg$ ! coa/s4 ,trad]s f     
,asia & ,phnicia w\ld n ply to ,italy & 
,spa9 along ! op5 sea :5 !y c\ld g f    
isl& to isl& & along ! %elt]$ wat]s ( ! 
two gulfs3 all ^! mu/ %ip _! goods      
across ! ,i/hmus1 & ! ,i/hmus 0 dom9at$ 
by ! impregnable rock ( ,cor9?4 ,?us !  
ma/]s ( ,cor9? c\ld levy tolls on all   
comm]ce3 !y grew ri*1 z 9 old] days     
,troy did1 & lat] ,con/ant9ople1 because
 !y lay across a trade r\te4 ,"h 0 built
 ! fir/ ,greek navy ( w>-%ips3 "h 7 !   
ri* & p[]ful tyrants2 "h 0 wor%ipp$     
,poseidon1 ) 8 fam\s ,i/hmian games1 &  
,pho5ician ,aphrodite4 ,a few ye>s ago1 
! prec9ct ( ,poseidon 0 dug out1 & !re  
appe>$ a mass ( votive tablets1 on :i*  
we may see ! daily life ( ,cor9? 9 !    
sev5? c5tury be=e ,*ri/4 ,pre-em95t     
among/ all ! sc5es are ^? ( ! pott]'s   
trade3 ! pott]y is se5 be+ made on !    

:eel1 bak$ 9 ! furnace1 & load$ into !  
%ips = export to ,italy & else:]e4      
,cor9? rem9ds u ( "s ( ! be/ /ories (   
,h]odotus3 ,cypselus & 8 *e/1 ,arion & !
 dolph9s1 & t attractive scatt]bra9     
,hippocleides1 :o at ,sicyon h>d by     
danc$ away 8 m>riage1 & did n c>e "o    
jot4 ,no great man ( lett]s ev] came out
 ( ,cor9?1 no poet & no orator2 b       
,cor9?ian bronze 0 fam\s1 & ! city 0    
full ( works ( art4 ,:5 ,mummius sack$  
,cor9? & left x desolate1 he made 8     
fam\s b>ga9 ) ! contractors :o remov$ ! 
spoil3 if !y damag$ any ( ! works ( art1
 !y 7 to replace !m ) o!rs z good4      
,cor9? 0 aft]w>ds rebuilt2 all w rememb]
 ,/4 ,paul's connection ) ! city1 & !   
riot :5 ,gallic 0 gov]nor ( ,a*aia4  ,! 
,acrocor9?us is "o ( ! mo/ magnific5t   
sights 9 ! _w3 x has ! common quality ( 
! ,greek m\nta9s1 gr&eur )\t excessive  
size2 b /&+ z x does isolat$ f o!r      
hills1 & visible ev]y:]e1 f ,a!ns to    
,p>nassus1 its effect on ! imag9ation is
 nev] to be =gott54 ,its height is n f> 

%ort ( #bjjj feet1 & x is cr[n$ ) a     
=tress z x has be5 all ?r\gh hi/ory4 ,f 
! summit we see ! :ole c5tre ( ,greece2 
ev5 ! ,p>!non itself1 ! c5tre ( ,greek  
arti/ic a*ievem5t4 ,"h too is ! sacr$   
spr+ ,peir5e1 /ruck out by ! ho( (      
,pegasus4  ,! view "h giv5 t[>ds ! gulf 
%[s ,p>nassus 9 ! di/ance1 l a gho/4    
,a!ns is ! he>t ( ,greece1 & ,greece is 
! s\l ( mank9d4 ,no man :o loves :at is 
beautiful1 or :o admires :at is noble1 c
 fail to feel at home 9 ,a!ns4 ,"h 9 ?is
 little pla91 girt ) purple m\nta9s1    
liv$ ^? m5 :o discov]$ human reason1 :o 
%[$ h[ to express man's greate/ ideas1  
:o pitt$ c\rage & intellect aga9/ brute 
=ce1 :o = a few %ort ye>s liv$ ! fulle/ 
life possible = mank9d3 we h liv$ on _! 
?\ghts ev] s9ce4  ,! beauties ( ! place 
h be5 (t5 sung3 !y are summ$ up 9 "o    
immortal phrase1 8city ( ! violet cr[n40
 ,! cont9u$ *anges ( col\r1 especially  
t[>ds ev5+1 9 t cle> air1 ) sea & cl\d &
 m\nta91 make ! sc5e a cont9ual delight4
 ,9 ! mid/ ( ?is f]tile pla9 rises ! %>p

 peak ( ,lycabettus1 & beside x !       
buttress$ ,acropolis1 f :i* ! temples   
gr[ l fl[]s4 ,& f e side ?is is a l&m>k3
 :e!r f ,aeg9a opposite1 or f "s fronti]
 =tress l ,phyle1 or ev5 f ,acrocor9?1  
?is rock1 n high 9 itself1 /&s out to ! 
view1 & makes u rememb] ,a!ns4 ,"h1 m   
easily ?an any:]e1 c we see h[ ! ,greek 
ar*itect saw ea* build+ z "p ( a :ole4  
,i h already spok5 ( ! ref9em5ts ( !    
,p>!non1 & h[ x is set ) reg>d to !     
sunlight3 b ! ,p>!non is only "o ( a    
gr\p ( temples4 ,!re yet rema9 a great  
"p ( ! ,ere*!um1 ! olde/ %r9e on !      
,acropolis1 & site ( ! ,k+'s h\se be=e  
hi/ory began3 & a little %r9e (         
,victory1 built on a ba/ion ( ! rock4 ,b
 !re 7 o!rs2 & ! :ole prec9ct 0 ent]$ by
 ! ,propylaea1 :i* also rema9s 9 "p1 to 
:i* l$ a flight ( /eps4 ,! idea ( ?is   
gateway 0 a /roke ( g5ius4 ,! visitor   
ent]+ by x saw ! :ole mass ( build+s z x
 7 fram$ by ! m>ble pill>s & ar*itrave2 
& if he turn$1 he look$ out ?r\gh ! same
 frame ^u ! pla9 & ! sea1 ! /rait (     

,salamis1 ) ! isl& beyond x4 ,! rock    
falls /eep "u ! gate1 s !re is no?+ to  
b> ?is view1 :i* mu/ h rem9d$ ! ,a!nian 
( ! great pa/ e "t he look$ =? f x4 ,to 
! "r1 z "o looks out ( ?is gateway1 lies
 ! spur ( ! ,areopagus1 seat ( t mo/    
anci5t c\rt & c\ncil1 ^u :i* place ,/4  
,paul told ! ,a!nians ( ! ,unkn[n ,god4 
,to ! left1 b n visible1 is ! prec9ct ( 
,dionysus1 ) ! !atre4 ,/raight ahead1 ! 
anci5t ,a!nian w\ld see ! long walls    
jo9+ 8 city to ,peiraeus & ! sea1 :]e 9 
=tifi$ h>b\rs lay 8 mighty fleets4 ,ov] 
! m>ket-place we/w>d he c\ld see !      
,dipylon ,gate ) its place ( tombs1 & ! 
sacr$ way lead+ to ,eleusis & !         
,my/]ies4 ,ea/w>d lies ,hymettus ) its  
honey-bees2 nor?w>ds ,lycabettus1 :]e ! 
,p]sian ho/ 0 fir/ sight$ p\r+ ov] !    
hillside1 & beyond x ,p5telicon1 t looks
 d[n on ,m>a?on pla92 nor?-we/w>ds are !
 hills ( ,a*>nae1 :]e ! fires ( ! invad+
 ,sp>tans 7 fir/ se5 9 t w> :i* end$ !  
greatness ( ,a!ns4 ,& all r\nd ab\t are 
caves & clefts & %r9es t belong$ to !   

immemorial religion ( ! place1 ea* l9k$ 
) memories1 _m ) immortal works (       
lit]ature4 ,we c no long] "k !          
magnific5ce ( ! pa/2 b we c "n _m ( !   
?+s t 7 se5 !re1 f ! description (      
,pausanias :i* has come d[n to u4  ,up  
?is slope1 once 9 e f\r ye>s1 aft] !    
games1 came ! great procession ( !      
,pana!ns1 :i* is portray$ = u on !      
frieze ( ! ,p>!non itself4 ,0 !re ev]   
su* a picture ( beauty & /r5g? & life8  
,!re w5t ! victors1 cr[n$ & rejoic+2 !  
fl[] ( ! ,a!nian cavalry1 su* m5 & su*  
horses z ! _w c %[ no f9] 7see !m on !  
,p>!non frieze671 all ! *ief soldi]s &  
/atesm51 eld]s be>+ bran*es ( olive1 !  
faire/ ( ,a!nian wom5 ) baskets ^u _!   
heads1 & ! sacr$ robe to be (f]$ to !   
mo/ anci5t & rev]5d image ( ,pallas1    
borne z ! sail ( ! ,pana!naic %ip4 ,!   
:ole sc5e is portray$ ^u ! sculptur$    
frieze ( ! ,p>!non4 ,"o ( ! plates 9 ?is
 book repres5ts ! mod]n idea ( a        
religi\s fe/ival1 & ! hundr$s ( dott$   
figures give a f>-away notion :at ?is   

great day mu/ h look$ l4 ,b h[ fa9t6 ,^!
 d>k-clad =ms h n a h9t ( ! gorge\s     
col\r ( ! anci5t _w4 ,on ! ,acropolis1  
too1 0 held ! fea/ ( ,brauronian        
,artemis1 :5 ! little ,a!nian maid5s    
dress$ up 9 be>sk9s = "s my/]i\s        
c]emony4 ,"h 0 ! m>k ( ,poseidon's      
trid5t1 "u ! ,ere*!um2 "h 0 ,a!na's     
sacr$ olive-tree1 & h] snakes4 ,& ! :ole
 place cr[d$ ) /atues & (f]+s1 &        
inscriptions c>v$ on /one1 treaties (   
peace1 & records ( hon\r--! hi/ory (    
,a!ns op5 = all to read4  ,! /ory ( !   
,a!nian ,acropolis is unique among/ its 
fell[s1 :ile at ! same "t x sums up !   
hi/ory ( ! ,greek /ates4 ,x is unique1  
because "h alone1 x seems1 a /ate exi/$ 
f ! beg9n+ to ! end )\t viol5t          
int]f]5ce4 ,_m ,greek sites 7 occupi$ 9 
! ,pelasgian age1 :5 ,crete 0 mi/ress ( 
! ,aegean1 & lat] :5 its place 0 tak5 by
 ,myc5 & ! cities ( ! ma9l&3 b ! c\ntry 
0 swept lat] by ! ,a*aeans1 & aft] !m by
 ! ,dorians1 :o naturally *ose ! m      
f]tile & weal?y places to /ay 94 ,s !   

,acropolis 0 ! site ( a royal palace & a
 ,pelasgian settlem5t2 b ! anci5t       
population 0 "h nev] displac$1 x 0 only 
add$ to & *ang$ gradually4 ,attica did n
 tempt ! invad] z o!r pla9s did2 nor did
 h] rul]s gr[ too ri* & de/roy ea* o!r =
 gre$2 b h] l& 0 ! refuge ( /rang]s4 ,h]
 anci5t civilisation & art rema9$ unt\*$
 by ! ravages ( w>1 & h] p always prid$ 
!mselves on be+ --born ( ! v soil4      
,p]haps ?is unbrok5 tradition expla9s ! 
prom95ce ( ,a!ns 9 ! arts4 ,"h too1 !   
wor%ip ( ,a!na jo9$ ! old] wor%ip (     
,poseidon1 )\t root+ x up1 & bo? fl\ri%$
 side by side4 ,!n came ! great dyna/y (
 ! tyrants1 ,peisi/ratus & 8 family1 :o 
made ! city magnific5t ) build+s &      
eng9e]+ works1 & attract$ to _! c\rt !  
f9e/ intellects ( _! day4 ,! huge       
und]gr\nd aqu$uct :i* has lately be5 dug
 out belongs to ?is "t1 ! six? c5tury   
be=e ,*ri/4 ,peisi/ratus is foll[$ by   
,solon & ! reign ( law3 & :5 ! b>b>ian  
came1 x 0 ,a!ns :o b>r$ 8 pa? & drove   
him back at ,m>a?on & at ,salamis4      

,x]xes burnt ! city1 b he did n de/roy  
,a!ns1 = ! p _h left x = ! "t2 & :5 !y  
return$1 !y built up _! =tifications ) !
 ru9s ( _! temples & monum5ts1 z !y may 
/ill be se5 pil$ slab on drum by !      
visitor ( to-day4 ,x]xes burnt all he   
f\nd1 b he only cle>$ ! gr\nd = a f9]   
art1 :i* at once fill$ ! empty spaces ) 
build+s & monum5ts ( a nobl] k9d1 !     
rema9s ( :i* we n[ see4 ,great names n[ 
/& out 9 pl5ty1 ,miltiades1 ,!mi/ocles &
 ,ari/eides1 ,p]icles & ,pheidias &     
,ict9us2 ,plato ov] yond] 9 ! olive     
groves ( ,academeia1 ,aes*ylus &        
,sophocles1 ,euripides & ,ari/ophanes 9 
! !atre or ! w9epress2 ,socrates walk+ !
 /reets1 or conv]s+ 9 agora or          
gymnasium2 ,demo/h5es mov+ m5's m9ds 9 !
 ,pnyx4 ,:5 ,a!ns fell1 h] conqu]or sp>$
 h] ) a g5]osity n usual 9 ^? days2 s x 
came ab\t t h] build+s rema9$ = _m      
hundr$s ( ye>s1 & ! ,p>!non ev5 la/$    
?r\gh ! deva/at+ ru9 ( ! ,turks1 until a
 ,v5etian %ell dropp$ ^u x & blew x up  
7#afhg74 ,!re is no use 9 try+ to record

 :at ! ,acropolis ( ,a!ns calls to m9d3 
x is ! be/ ( :at educat$ m5 "k4  ,fair &
 goodly 9 life1 ! ,a!nians 7 also fair 9
 dea?4 ,)\t ! gate1 on ! sacr$ road to  
,eleusis1 lies ! place ( tombs4 ,n b>e  
slabs are ^!1 nor brok5 columns2 "h are 
no wrea?s ( artificial fl[]s1 no ugl9ess
 & gloom1 = ! tombs are monum5ts (      
grace4 ,_m1 inde$1 are q simple1 9 %ape 
( vases or ! l2 b o!rs %[ delicate      
reliefs1 ) ! dead 9 _! habit z !y       
liv$--! woman at h] toilet1 ! w>rior on 
8 horse1 or "o seat$ 9 a *air & clasp+  
h&s ) 8 fri5ds z !y say1 ,f>e y well6 ,!
 inscriptions are z simple z !y c be3 no
 s5tim5t & no prea*+1 b a manly         
acceptance ( fate1 an hone/ regret =    
life1 or ! b>e "n4 ,! read] :o wi%es to 
le>n h[ ! ,greek look$ on dea?1 w\ld d  
well to read ! epitaphs 9 ! ,greek      
an?ology4 ,"h 9 ! place ( tombs we _c   
fail to rememb] t sc5e :i* ,?ucydides   
describes3 h[ 9 ea* ye> ( ! w> ! bodies 
( ^? sla9 7 buri$ ) public hon\r1 &     
,p]icles or "s notable man pron\nc$ _!  

eulogy2 & 9 t spee* ( ,p]icles we may   
read 9 brief ! ideal ( ! ,a!nian4  ,f   
?is place l$ =? ! ,sacr$ ,way1 ov] !    
hills to ,eleusis1 :]e p]haps m ?an     
any:]e else 9 ! ,greek _w ^? high]      
emotions 7 ar\s$ :i* we associate )     
religion4 ,9 ! ritual ^! 7 lack+2 &     
philosophy 0 sceptical r ?an religi\s1  
except ) a r>e s\l n[ & !n1 a ,socrates 
or a ,plato1 ) :om feel+ & intellect    
seem to be fus$ into "o =ce4 ,b !       
,eleus9ian my/]ies gave :at bo?         
philosophy & ritual lack$4 ,!y 7 my/]ies
 9 s f> t no "o might reveal !m         
unlawfully2 b n 9 ! s5se ( a riddle or a
 concealm5t1 = all ,greeks might qualify
 = admission4 ,! anci5t my/]ies recall m
 ! ,freemasons ?an any?+ else we "k4 ,_!
 orig9 is lo/ 9 d>kness1 & !y la/$ long 
aft] all else 9 ,greece 0 dead1 :5      
,al>ic ! ,go? 9 #cif did :at ,go?s d 9  
all ages--de/roy$1 b built n up4 ,!re 7 
rites ( purification1 & two /ages (     
initiation2 fir/1 usually z a *ild1 &   
lat] into ! high] grades z a man or     

woman4 ,!re 7 two ,my/]ies3 ! ,less]1   
celebrat$ by ! ,ilissos bank & close "u 
! ,acropolis1 be+ usually a prelim9>y to
 ! ,great] at ,eleusis4 ,:at ! my/]ies  
71 we "k n3 ! secret has be5 kept1      
al?\gh ,clem5t ( ,alex&ria 0 initiat$   
be=e he became a ,*ri/ian1 & he tells u 
:atev] he ?9ks w discr$it !m4           
,und\bt$ly1 !y includ$ dramatic         
repres5tations1 :i* /ruck awe &         
admiration into ! obs]v]s2 b ! inn]     
mean+ ( ^! 0 kn[n only to ! ,hi]ophant1 
:o reveal$ x to ^? :om he ?\ght fit to  
receive x4 ,& n[ ! gorge\s c]emony is   
ov]1 prie/s & wor%ipp]s h = ev] gone1 & 
no?+ rema9s b ! pavem5t ( ! temple1 ) a 
t9y *ur* ( ! ,virg9 p]*$ on a bluff     
above x4  ,aeg9a1 l all else 9 ,greece1 
is small1 only ab\t =ty squ>e miles2 yet
 ,aeg9a has left h] m>k on hi/ory4 ,"h1 
accord+ to ! tradition1 ,pheidon1 tyrant
 ( ,argos1 fir/ /ruck co9s 9 ,greece4   
,:e!r x 0 s or n1 ,aeg9a 0 a c5tre (    
trade v e>ly1 & f\nd$ a fam\s city1     
,naucratis1 9 ,nor? ,africa1 ,cydonia 9 

,crete1 & ano!r 9 ,umbria3 ! ,aeg9etan  
tortoise1 ! ,a!nian owl1 & ! ,cor9?ian  
horse 7 ! ?ree types ( co9s be/ kn[n to 
! ,greek _w1 pass+ ev]y:]e z good4      
,aeg9a 0 also fam\s = ! arts1 especially
 sculpture4 ,be=e ! ,p]sian w>s ,aeg9a  
came into conflict ) ,a!ns3 ,p]icles    
call$ x ! eyesore ( ! ,peiraeus1 be=e x 
0 conqu]$ & colonis$ by ,a!nian settl]s4
 ,! temple :i* /ill rema9s1 0 n 9 ! *ief
 t[n1 b 9 a lonely spot amid/ ! wild    
woods4 ,x 0 sacr$ to ,aphaia1 n to      
,zeus--s ,furtwngl] inf]s f inscriptions
 f\nd !re--b we "k no?+ ( its build+4 ,!
 p$im5ts1 :i* appe> to repres5t sc5es f 
! ,trojan w>s1 are rem>kable 9 ! hi/ory 
( sculpture2 !y are n[ at ,muni*4 ,close
 by ! bea* at :i* we l& is a small rocky
 islet1 ^u :i* lives a lonely h]mit 9 a 
hut made ) 8 own h&s4 ,if at ,eleusis we
 ?9k ( exalt$ religi\s emotion1 ,delphi 
puts e man 9 awe4 ,well 0 ! spot *os5 = 
! mo/ fam\s oracle ( antiquity3 x ne$s  
no help ( man to %[ ! p[r] ( ,god4 ,b   
"h1 z ev]y:]e 9 ,greece1 ! awe is n too 

great = humanity to be>3 x is n ! cru%+ 
s5se ( impot5ce 9 ! face ( natural =ces 
t "o feels 9 ! ,alps or ! ,himalayas1 x 
is ! awe t may be felt = a be+ bo?      
mighty & k9dly4 ,human be+s may live "h 
& be happy2 !y may m\nt above ! cleft & 
! %9+ rocks1 & /ill live & be           
happy--inde$1 ^? upl&s 7 ! sc5e ( _m a  
m]ry revel :5 ! ,greeks wor%ipp$ _!     
gods4 ,b ! great black rocks above      
,delphi1 !mselves only ! foot ( !       
approa* to ,p>nassus1 are awful en\gh to
 make !m a fit habitation = a god4 ,i   
%all nev] =get my fir/ visit to ,delphi4
 ,x 0 w9t]3 ,i rode f ,lebadeia to      
,ara*ova ov] ! rocky & precipit\s pa?s1 
& pa/ ! ,clov5 ,way :]e dipus slew      
,laius1 ?r\gh a bl9d+ /orm ( ra9 & sn[4 
,next morn+ ! sky 0 cle> z 9 spr+time1 &
 a bright sun %9+1 & a %ort ride br\ght 
u to ! top ( ! valley1 :5ce c\ld be se5 
a pla9 cov]$ ) olive trees :i* seem$ f t
 height l a flood roll+ up ! valley f ! 
pla94 ,b ,delphi's rock 0 grim & gloomy 
z ev] ov] ?is bright sc5e4 ,9 ,delphi 0 

an oracle f "t immemorial2 ! leg5ds told
 ( x %[ t ! ,greeks f\nd "o already on !
 spot4 ,accord+ to ! ,hom]ic ,hymn1 :i* 
we may rationalise if we l1 ,apollo f\nd
 ! place possess$ by a huge s]p5t1 :i*  
he slew1 & z ! body rott$ 77 ! place got
 ! "n ( ,py?o4 ,"h 0 ! ,omphalos1 or    
navel-/one1 m>k+ ! c5tre ( ! e>?2 & !   
sacr$ spr+ ,ca/alian rose betwe5 ! cleft
 rocks4 ,! ,py?ia1 or prie/ess1 w\ld    
seat h]self on a tripod ov] a *asm )9 ! 
temple1 & h] rav+s conta9$ ! god's      
answ]2 b x mu/ be int]pret$ by !        
prophet1 :o /ood by h] side4 ,s9ce !    
oracle 0 consult$ by great & small1 !   
prie/s 7 able to ex]cise a /rong        
influ5ce on politics2 & _! influ5ce 0   
g5]ally = good1 until ! m9d1 ( ,greece  
outgrew oracles4 ,record$ answ]s d n    
expla9 ! repute ( ! oracle1 or its      
influ5ce2 & ! tablets t h actually be5  
f\nd "h & at ,dodona are mo/ly que/ions 
on p]sonal or trivial subjects4 ,p]haps 
t 0 ! mo/ f>-rea*+ ( its behe/s :5      
,sp>ta 0 comm&$ to free ,a!ns f h]      

tyrants2 & its mo/ notewor?y revelation1
 t ,socrates 0 ! wise/ ( m54 ,"o (      
,h]odotus's be/ /ories tells h[ ,crsus  
consult$ ! oracle1 & :at came ( x4      
,twice ,delphi 0 miracul\sly sav$ f     
pillage3 once :5 ! army ( ,x]xes 0 driv5
 back by fall+ rocks1 & once :5 a /orm  
beat (f ! ,gauls4 ,philip made x a      
pretext = int]f]+ 9 ! affairs ( ,greece2
 b !n he w\ld h f\nd a pretext some:]e 9
 any case4 ,! ,py?ian ,games 7 celebrat$
 "h e two ye>s4 ,sulla plund]$ !        
treasures1 & s did ,n]o2 ,con/ant9e     
c>ri$ (f :at he c\ld f9d to             
,con/ant9ople1 :]e "o /ill /&s3 ! base (
 ! gold5 tripod d$icat$ aft] ! defeat ( 
! ,p]sians1 ?ree bronze snakes int]tw9+1
 & engrav$ ) ! names ( ,greek tribes :o 
took "p4 ,! oracle lo/ its high /&+ ab\t
 ! "t ( ! ,peloponnesian ,w>1 b x       
cont9u$ to be consult$1 until x 0 sil5c$
 by ,!odosius4  ,pausanias gives a      
description ( ! *ief ?+s to be se5 9 ?is
 holy place4 ,be=e ! excavations1 a     
,greek village cov]$ ! site2 b n[ ?is   

has be5 remov$1 we c tread on ! anci5t  
pavem5t1 & see ! places :]e _m ( !      
objects once /ood4 ,"h1 z at ,olympia1 !
 great /ates _h _! treasuries1 "o ( :i* 
has be5 built up out ( its fragm5ts4    
,high above ,delphi1 on a m\nta9 t rises
 out ( ! upl&s1 n f> f ! peaks (        
,p>nassus1 is ! ,corycian cave1 fam\s 9 
leg5d1 sacr$ to ,pan & ! ,nymphs2 "h &  
h]eab\ts 7 celebrat$ ! revels (         
,dionysus1 :i* read]s ( ! ,ion w        
rememb]4  ,! temple ( ,olympian ,zeus at
 ,a!ns 0 begun by ,peisi/ratus1 & p>tly 
built1 b x 0 nev] f9i%$ 9 its orig9al   
,doric /yle4 ,antio*us ,epiphanes plann$
 x afre%1 & a ,roman ar*itect1          
,cossutius1 p>tly built x 9 ! ,cor9?ian 
/yle4 ,probably ! columns t n[ /& 7 put 
up by him2 "s ( ! rema9s ( ?is e>li]    
build+ are us$ z f\ndations = ^!4 ,:5   
,antio*us di$ 7,b4,c4 #afd71 x 0 left   
aga9 unf9i%$1 until ,hadrian f9i%$ x4   
,^! columns are reg>d$ z ! f9e/ specim5s
 ( ! ,cor9?ian /yle4 ,ri* z ! effect (  
?is /yle is1 x does n satisfy eye & m9d 

z ! ,doric does1 or inde$ ! ,ionic3 (   
all ?+s1 leaves are lea/ suitable to !  
nature ( /one4  ,sunium1 f\nd$ 9 !      
,peloponnesian ,w> to protect !         
corn-%ips1 0 ne> ! silv]-m9es2 x 0 an   
important =tress1 b its prosp]ity did n 
la/ long4 ,! temple 0 d$icat$ to ,a!na4 
,"h ! salt sea w9ds h made ! columns    
:ite1 9 contra/ to ! rose-p9k ( !       
,p>!non4     ,i  ,,aetna ,,ov] ,,taorm9a
  ,i ,,aetna ,,ov] ,,taorm9a  ,,= ye>s  
,i want$ to make ?is draw+--& = days    
aft] ,i rea*$ ,taorm9a ,i _h to wait    
be=e ,i c\ld make x3 = a curta9 ( mi/   
hung ov] ! sea & l&4 ,!n sudd5ly 9 all  
its glory ! great :ite1 sn[y cone1 borne
 on cl\ds1 came =? above ! sea & %ore4  
,& ,hiro%ige & ,claude & ,turn] nev]    
imag9$ or dreamt ( any?+ s glori\s--& ,i
 _h x all to myself1 = x 0 tea-"t4      
,illu/ration     ,,ii  ,,! ,,!atre1     
,,sege/a  ,,ii ,,! ,,!atre1 ,,sege/a    
,,no?+1 n ev5 ,taorm9a1 is m magnific5t 
?an ! set sc5e ( ! ,!atre2 h[ poor &    
mean mu/ h be5 ! =gott5 mumm]s6 ,! sc5e 

w exi/ till ! end ( "t--ev5 ?\gh sc>ce  
anyone climbs ! m\nta9-side &1 fagg$    
out1 drops 9 "o ( ! ?\s&s ( empty seats 
hewn 9 ! liv+ rock1 :i* w nev] aga9 be  
fill$4  ,illu/ration     ,,iii  ,,!     
,,temple ,,ov] ,,! ,,ca,,on1 ,,sege/a   
,,iii ,,! ,,temple ,,ov] ,,! ,,ca,,on1  
,,sege/a  ,,ev]yone advis$ me to g to   
,sege/a1 & ,i am glad ,i w5t2 b ,i %\ld 
nev] h kn[n h[ wond]fully ! ,greeks made
 ar*itectural compositions if ,i _h n   
se5 ! ,gr& ,caon4 ,!re ,i saw ,nature's 
compositions3 "h 0 "o made by man--f9]1 
?\gh n s big--= bigness has no?+ to d ) 
art4  ,illu/ration     ,,iv  ,,f        
,,temple ,,to ,,temple1 ,,girg5ti  ,,iv 
,,f ,,temple ,,to ,,temple1 ,,girg5ti   
,,n only are ! l9es ( ! hills1 look+    
t[>d ! sea1 p]fect1 b ! build]s ( ^!1 z 
( all ! temples1 took advantage ( ! l9es
 9 ! l&scape1 mak+ ! temple ! focus ( a 
great composition2 an art no long]      
practis$2 b ! temples ( ! gods ( ,greece
 7 m important ?an ! notions ( local    
politicians & l&-own]s & ar*itects4     

,illu/ration     ,v  ,,! ,,columns ,,(  
,,ca/or ,,& ,,pollux1 ,,girg5ti  ,v ,,! 
,,columns ,,( ,,ca/or ,,& ,,pollux1     
,,girg5ti  ,,?is is n a re/oration1 b a 
re-build+4 ,! rebuild]s work$ bett] ?an 
!y knew1 & made a delightful--&         
popul>--subject = e arti/ :o goes to    
,girg5ti4  ,illu/ration     ,,vi        
,,sunrise ,,beh9d ,,! ,,temple ,,(      
,,concord1 ,,girg5ti  ,,vi ,,sunrise    
,,beh9d ,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,concord1     
,,girg5ti  ,,! ,l& ( ,temples is ! l& ( 
effects--& !y mu/ be seiz$ :5 !y are    
se54 ,i _h no idea ( mak+ ?is draw+2 b z
 ,i rea*$ ! temple1 ! sun rose beh9d x1 
& ,i nev] saw x s huge1 s mighty1 z t   
morn+4 ,s ,i drew x--or tri$ to--:ile ! 
effect la/$4  ,illu/ration     ,,vii    
,,! ,,temple ,,by ,,! ,,sea--,,temple   
,,( ,,concord1 ,,girg5ti  ,,vii ,,!     
,,temple ,,by1 ,,! ,,sea--,,temple ,,(  
,,concord1 ,,girg5ti  ,i ,,h nev] se5   
long1 level l9es ( temple1 l&1 & sea s  
h>monise & "w into a great composition z
 at ,girg5ti4  ,illu/ration     ,,viii  

,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,concord ,,on ,,!     
,,wall ,,f ,,)91 ,,girg5ti  ,,viii ,,!  
,,temple ,,( ,,concord ,,on ,,! ,,wall  
,,f ,,)91 ,,girg5ti  ,,h[ x piles up6   
,:at a p]fect goal = ! pilgrim2 s noble 
is ! sight1 he mu/ 9 awe h m\nt$ to x on
 8 knees4  ,illu/ration     ,,ix  ,,!   
,,temple ,,( ,,concord ,,on ,,! ,,wall  
,,f ,,)\t1 ,,girg5ti  ,,ix  ,,! ,,temple
 ,,( ,,concord ,,on ,,! ,,wall ,,f      
,,)\t1 ,,girg5ti  ,,:5 ! gl[ ( ! sunset 
falls on x1 & :5 ! %ad[s block out !    
great rifts 9 ! walls--walls :i* are l  
cliffs--& :5 ! t\ri/s & ar*aeologi/s h  
gone to dress = d9n] & left "o alone1 "o
 le>ns 9 ! sil5ce t ! ,greeks 7 div9e   
arti/s4  ,illu/ration     ,x  ,,columns 
,,( ,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,juno1 ,,girg5ti  
,x  ,,columns ,,( ,,! ,,temple ,,(      
,,juno1 ,,girg5ti  ,,z ! sun s9ks into !
 sil5t sea1 ^! batt]$1 beat5 columns    
take on a dignity :i* proves h[         
impressive ?is temple 0 :5 _! art 0 a   
liv+ ?+4 ,only f )9 comes a voice1 9    
,engli% or ,am]ican1 :i* proves t art is

 dead--,greek art4  ,illu/ration3       
,,xi  ,,! ,,temples ,,on ,,! ,,wall1    
,,girg5ti  ,,xi ,,! ,,temples ,,on ,,!  
,,wall1 ,,girg5ti  ,,!re !y /& on ! out]
 walls1 ! long l9e ( !m--& !re are m ?an
 ,i h drawn2 b h[ magnific5tly !y /&--^!
 ev]la/+ monum5ts to great art4         
,illu/ration     ,,xii  ,,! ,,temple ,,(
 ,,juno ,,f ,,bel[1 ,,girg5ti  ,,xii ,,!
 ,,temple ,,( ,,juno ,,f ,,bel[1        
,,girg5ti  ,,out ( ! d>k riv]-b$ & !    
huge b\ld]s3 "s real1 "s blocks t h     
fall5 f ! wall above1 slid d[n ! high   
sc>r$ hill & come to re/ 9 confusion at 
! bottom4 ,above ! %att]$ wall sil5tly  
/& 9 ! pale morn+ light ! long l9e (    
pill>s ( ! temple4 ,& all ! :ile ,i     
drew1 ! ,sicilian gl>$ at me f beh9d !  
great rocks1 & ,i 0 glad :5 ,i _h f9i%$ 
& c\ld come away4  ,illu/ration         
,,xiii  ,,pae/um4 ,,morn+ ,,mi/  ,,xiii 
,,pae/um4 ,,morn+ ,,mi/  ,,:51 aft] a   
night ( horrors at ! inn ( ,p/um1 ,i    
rose be=e day1 ! temples 7 veil$ 9 mi/2 
! f5ces 7 lo/2 ! factory *imney _h      

vani%$--! gu>dians 7 asleep--! place    
seem$ f> away2 b soon a motor hoot$ & an
 eng9e :i/l$1 ! mi/s vani%$1 ! gu>dians 
came out1 ! t\ri/s flock$ 92 ! sadness1 
! lonel9ess ( ,p/um are gone ) ! mal>ia 
& ! buffaloes--only ! mosquitoes rema94 
,illu/ration     ,,xiv  ,,pae/um4 ,,ev5+
  ,,xiv ,,pae/um4 ,,ev5+  ,,only 9 !    
mi/s ( ! morn+ & ! gl[ ( ! ev5+ is ,p/um
 impressive any m4 ,x is dignifi$1 b !  
my/]y & melan*oly h gone4  ,illu/ration 
,,xv  ,,cor9? ,,t[>ds ,,! ,,gulf  ,,xv  
,,cor9? ,,t[>ds ,,! ,,gulf  ,,"h !      
build]s _h tri$ = a wond]ful s*eme1 &   
work$ x out wond]fully1 light aga9/     
light--! glitt]+ temple aga9/ ! gleam+  
sea--! rigid1 solid l9es ( ! build+     
tell+ aga9/ ! fa9t1 f>-away1            
half-reveal$1 half-conceal$ silh\ettes 9
 =m & col\r ( ! m\nta9s2 ov] ^: sides ! 
cl\d-%ad[s sl[ly mov$4 ,on "o side my   
c\ntrym5 h built a %anty :]e !y liv$    
:ile excavat+2 on ! o!r is a b>e b>rack1
 9 :i* !y h /or$ ! /uff !y h f\nd4 ,f ! 
village ,squ>e1 ?is museum completely   

hides ! temple2 b ,greece 0 s mu* f9]   
be=e x 0 discov]$ by ar*aeologi/s--or by
 mo/ ( !m--= mo/ ( !m h no feel+ at all 
= ! art !y h dug up4  ,illu/ration      
,,xvi  ,,acro-,,cor9? ,,f ,,cor9?  ,,xvi
 ,,acro-,,cor9? ,,f ,,cor9?  ,,! way !  
great m\nta9s pile up beh9d ! great     
temple is mo/ impressive4  ,illu/ration 
,,xvii  ,,olympia ,,f ,,! ,,hillside    
,,xvii ,,olympia ,,f ,,! ,,hillside  ,,!
 ,olympian groves are a fraud2 !y are   
m]e bu%es & only hide ! temples amid :i*
 !y spr\t2 b by dodg+ ar\nd ! hillside  
"o c see h[ f9ely ! temples 7 plac$ & h[
 lovely 7 ! l9es ( ! me&]+ riv] back$ by
 ! beautiful1 ev]-*ang+ col\r$ m\nta9s4 
,illu/ration     ,,xviii  ,,! ,,temple  
,,( ,,jupit]4 ,,ev5+  ,,xviii ,,!       
,,temple ,,( ,,jupit]4 ,,ev5+  ,,night 0
 fall+ z ,i 0 com+ back f draw+ by !    
riv] ,ilissos4 ,! subject 0 ! mo/       
impressive ,i saw 9 ! ,l& ( ,temples1 & 
9 ! ga!r+ d>kness ,i drew x z well z ,i 
c\ld4  ,illu/ration     ,,xix  ,,!      
,,acropolis ,,f ,,! ,,temple ,,(        

,,jupit]1 ,,a!ns  ,,xix ,,! ,,acropolis 
,,f ,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,jupit]1 ,,a!ns   
,,!re is z mu* *>m 9 ! cle>ness ( ! day 
z 9 ! my/]y ( ! night1 9 ! ,l& (        
,temples4 ,& ?\gh ,i only mov$ f "o side
 ( ! columns to ! o!r1 :5 ,i drew !     
,temple ( ,jupit]1 ,ev5+1 ! composition 
is z diff]5t z ! effect4  ,illu/ration  
,,xx  ,,! ,,way ,,up ,,to ,,!           
,,acropolis  ,,xx ,,! ,,way ,,up ,,to   
,,! ,,acropolis  ,,! fragm5t ( ! /eps t 
is left %[s h[ impos+ ! :ole mu/ h be54 
,9 mak+ ?is li?ograph ,i c\ld n help    
not+--?\gh ,i did n put !m 9--! endless 
races t m\nt$2 & al?\gh ! co/ume ( ea*  
gr\p *ang$1 & (t5 ! nationality &       
language1 !re 0 almo/ always someone    
among/ !m :o c\ld read ! anci5t ,greek (
 ! tablets built into ! wall2 & always !
 :ole p>ty seem$ to "u-/& x4 ,b ! mod]n 
,greek is1 ,i imag9e1 ! greate/ read] 9 
! _w--at any rate ( newspap]s4          
,illu/ration     ,,xxi  ,,d[n ,,f ,,!   
,,acropolis  ,,xxi ,,d[n ,,f ,,!        
,,acropolis  ,,betwe5 ,a!ns1 ! pavem5t (

 ! ,temple ( ,nike1 & ! ro( ( ! ,temple 
( ,!seus1 !re is a great gulf fix$1 &   
?is gives an amaz+ idea ( height & dep?2
 & beyond1 /ret*+ to ! m\nta9s1 ) !     
feel+ ( ! sea beyond t1 is ! sacr$ way4 
,x is ! way to ,eleusis & ! ,sea4 ,f !  
road1 z x m\nts ! di/ant hills1 ! way   
leads /raight to ! ,acropolis1 :i* gr[s 
m & m impressive & impos+ z y approa*1  
till mod]n ,a!ns hides x4  ,illu/ration 
,,xxii  ,,sunrise ,,ov] ,,! ,,acropolis 
,,xxii ,,sunrise ,,ov] ,,! ,,acropolis  
,,e morn+ ! sun1 com+ 9 at my b$room    
w9d[1 woke me :5 x t\*$ ! topmo/ "p ( ! 
,p>!non2 & !n ! light spread d[n to !   
battlem5ts1 !n to ! cliffs1 %[+ ! horrid
 caves & /rong ribs ov] & ^u :i* !      
=tress temples /&2 & by ! "t ! sun _h   
rea*$ ! =um1 ! =um woke up & all !      
beauty fl$--till ano!r day4             
,illu/ration     ,,xxiii  ,,/orm ,,beh9d
 ,,! ,,acropolis  ,,xxiii ,,/orm ,,beh9d
 ,,! ,,acropolis  ,,& :5 ! cl\ds ( a    
spr+ aft]noon ga!r beh9d ! ,acropolis1 y
 realise :y x 0 built on t b>r5 rock3   

because ! build]s saw x w\ld be ! mo/   
impressive %r9e on ?is e>?4             
,illu/ration     ,,xxiv  ,,!            
,,propylaea1 ,,a!ns  ,,xxiv ,,!         
,,propylaea2 ,,a!ns  ,,?is is pure      
ar*itecture2 x int]e/$ me4 ,i tri$ to   
draw x1 z x look$ to me2 b no           
draughtsman--no pa9t]1 ei!r--w ev] get t
 wondr\s w>m gl[ :i* seems to come f )9 
! walls & suffuse !m ) light & col\r4   
,illu/ration     ,,xxv  ,,! ,,portico   
,,( ,,! ,,p>!non  ,,xxv ,,! ,,portico   
,,( ,,! ,,p>!non  ,,?is is ! greate/    
ar*itectural art 9 ! _w4  ,illu/ration  
,,xxvi  ,,! ,,p>!non ,,f ,,! ,,gateway  
,,xxvi ,,! ,,p>!non ,,f ,,! ,,gateway   
,,did ^! temples always gr[ out ( ! b>e 
rock z n[1 or 0 ! rock1 too1 ov]laid )  
m>ble pavem5ts8 ,x mu/ h be51 = x is    
incr$ible t p ) su* a s5se ( beauty %\ld
 h built su* beautiful ?+s on a /one    
pile4  ,illu/ration     ,,xxvii  ,,!    
,,fa,,ade ,,( ,,! ,,p>!non4 ,,sunset    
,,xxvii ,,! ,,fa,,ade ,,( ,,! ,,p>!non4 
,,sunset  ,,j z ! bell r+s at sunset1 f 

betwe5 a rift 9 ! cl\ds ( ! spr+ ev5+ ! 
la/ ray ( ! sett+ sun /rikes ! p$im5t ( 
! ,p>!non4 ,& aga9/ ! black cl\ds ov] ! 
m\nta9s1 x is transfigur$1 & !n sl[ly "o
 leaves--turn+ f ! wond] ( man's "w to !
 wond] ( ,god's sunset1 & ! wond] ( !   
aft]gl[ ov] ,eleusis4  ,illu/ration     
,,xxviii  ,,! ,,fall5 ,,column1 ,,a!ns  
,,xxviii ,,! ,,fall5 ,,column1 ,,a!ns   
,,on ei!r side ( ! ,p>!non ! columns    
?r[n d[n by ! explosion ( a p[d] magaz9e
 )91 are ly+1 n z !y fell1 b ea* section
 c>efully roll$ into its prop] place4 ,!
 disord] at ,olympia1 :5 e>?quakes      
de/roy$ ! temples1 is f> m conv9c+ &    
impressive1 = !re ! columns lie 9       
confusion1 "h 9 ar*aeological ord]4     
,illu/ration     ,,xxix  ,,! ,,little   
,f,,te1 ,,a!ns  ,,xxix ,,! ,,little     
,f,,te1 ,,a!ns  ,a ,,little fte ( "s    
sort 0 be+ held at ! little *ur* by !   
little riv]1 & ! way to x 0 l9$ ) !m t  
sold ?+s2 beyond 0 ! rocky riv]-b$2 !n !
 ,temple ( ,jupit]2 & away above all1 ! 
,acropolis--fram$ 9 by ! black trees1 ! 

mo/ romantic subject ,i ev] saw4        
,illu/ration     ,,xxx  ,,! ,,great     
,f,,te1 ,,a!ns  ,,xxx ,,! ,,great       
,f,,te1 ,,a!ns  ,,on ! aft]noon ( ,/4   
,george's ,day ,i w&]$ out ( ! city up  
to ! ,acropolis1 & f\nd ! :ole pla9 & ! 
approa*es cr[d$2 :ile ! /airs 7 black ) 
p1 & s 7 ! l(ty plat=ms4 ,! fte t       
aft]noon1 z ,i saw x f ,m>s ,hill1 0 m  
real ?an any re/oration or imag9ations4 
,,xxxi  ,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,nike1 ,,a!ns 
,,xxxi ,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,nike1 ,,a!ns  
,,"o has b to cross to ! o!r side ( !   
,propylaea f ! top ( ! /eps--f ! great  
plat=m & alt> be=e ! wall1 to f9d an    
equally inspir+--or inspir$--arrangem5t4
 ,= !re is no accid5t 9 ^! compositions4
 ,! way ! l9e ( ! sea cuts blue aga9/ ! 
:ite temple walls & %[s ?r\gh ! columns 
at ei!r end1 & ! way ! ne>] hill (      
,lycabettus piles up d>k aga9/ ! %9+    
base on :i* ! temple /&s & t is acc5t$1 
too1 by ! "o d>k note ( ! !atre--?\gh x 
is lat] t "o sees ^! arrangem5ts 7 n    
accid5ts4 ,^! ?+s 7 all ?\ght out by !  

build]s ( ,temples4  ,illu/ration       
,,xxxii  ,,! ,,temple ,,( ,,nike ,,f    
,,m>s ,,hill1 ,,a!ns  ,,xxxii ,,!       
,,temple ,,( ,,nike ,,f ,,m>s ,,hill1   
,,a!ns  ,,?is is ! gr&e/ gr\p+ ( !      
,acropolis4 ,! way 9 :i* ! :ole1 9      
solemn squ>e masses1 piles up--! temple 
dom9at+ all--is m>vell\s4 ,x is f9]1 ,i 
am sure1 9 ru91 ?an ev] x 0 9 p]fection4
  ,illu/ration     ,,xxxiii  ,,!        
,,odeon1 ,,a!ns  ,,xxxiii ,,! ,,odeon1  
,,a!ns  ,,look+ d[n f ! ,acropolis1 "o  
sees ! !atre--ev5 ! ,greeks mo/ly plac$ 
! !atre be=e ! temple4 ,b :at ,i saw t  
aft]noon 0 a s*ool ( small ,greek boys  
/udy+ & recit+ 9 ! ,odeon1 because !    
s*ool _h be5 tak5 = b>racks4 ,b z a     
soldi] said to me1 ,m>s 0 m real to him 
?an ! ,turks he _h be5 fight+4          
,illu/ration     ,,xxxiv  ,,! ,,/reet   
,,( ,,! ,,tombs1 ,,a!ns  ,,xxxiv ,,!    
,,/reet ,,( ,,! ,,tombs1 ,,a!ns  ,,to be
 buri$ "u ! %ad[1 or 9 sight ( !        
,acropolis mu/ h be5 glori\s4 ,n[h]e    
else is !re su* a decorative arrangem5t 

( dea?4  ,illu/ration     ,,xxxv        
,,eleusis3 ,,! ,,pavem5t ,,( ,,!        
,,temple  ,,xxxv ,,eleusis3 ,,!         
,,pavem5t ,,( ,,! ,,temple  ,,swept away
 is ev]y?+1 my/]ies & all--all t rema9s 
is ! great pavem5t on :i* /& ! /umps (  
columns2 yet ,i d\bt if x 0 f9] ev]4 ,& 
! long drive out ov] ! sacr$ way1 !     
long1 quiet day2 & ! long drive back1 ) 
! ,acropolis gr[+ m & m maje/ic 9 !     
twilight1 7 p]fect4  ,illu/ration       
,,xxxvi  ,,aeg9a  ,,xxxvi ,,aeg9a       
,,only at ,aeg9a1 s f> z ,i h se51 is   
!re a real--yet x is s beautiful x seems
 unreal--=e/ 9 ,greece4 ,n[h]e 9 ! _w d 
! trees 9 d5se1 deep %ade s cov] !      
slopes t lead d[n1 almo/ black1 to !    
deep blue sea2 & :]e h ,i ev] se5 su* a 
contra/ betwe5 ! bosky woods & ! b>r5   
cliffs t t[] above !m8 ,& all ?is is b a
 backgr\nd = "o ( ! mo/ beautiful       
temples 9 ?is beautiful l&1 plac$       
p]fectly1 by ! greate/ arti/s ( ! pa/1 9
 ! mo/ exquisite l&scape4 ,yet ! gu>dian
 told me ,i 0 ! ?ird p]son :o _h visit$ 

,aeg9a betwe5 ,janu>y & ,april la/ ye>4 
,illu/ration     ,,xxxvii  ,,aeg9a ,,on 
,,its ,,m\nta9 ,,top  ,,xxxvii ,,aeg9a  
,,on ,,its ,,m\nta9 ,,top  ,,z1 aft] !  
long ride across ! isl&1 ev] climb+1 "o 
comes f ! d5se wood1 sudd5ly 9 front is 
! spl5did pile1 on ei!r side ! =e/1     
beyond ! sea2 & 9 ! airy di/ance1 ,a!ns 
& ! ,acropolis4  ,illu/ration           
,,xxxviii  ,,! ,,%9+ ,,rocks1 ,,delphi  
,,xxxviii ,,! ,,%9+ ,,rocks1 ,,delphi   
,,aft] ,i _h made ?is draw+1 aft] ,i _h 
_h x transf]r$ to /one & pr9t$1 ,i %[$ x
 to ! ,director ( ! ,greek ,s*ool1 & he 
said3 8,:y1 y h drawn ! ,%9+ ,rocks40   
,all ,i tri$ to d 0 to draw ,delphi & ! 
rocks beh9d ! ru9s4 ,t 9 ! light ! rocks
 did %9e 0 no?+ to me1 save t !y %[$ !  
way ! cliffs 7 built up4 ,i h s9ce      
le>n$1 h[ev]1 t ,i h %[n "o ! great ?+s 
( ,greece4  ,illu/ration     ,,xxxix    
,,! ,,treasury ,,oe ,,a!ns1 ,,delphi    
,,xxxix ,,! ,,treasury ,,( ,,a!ns1      
,,delphi  ,,! ,treasury is a re/oration2
 b1 ev5 s1 x is *>m+1 /&+ by ! r\gh pav$

 way1 :i* is bord]$ by ! semi-circul>   
seats1 plac$ always ) ! mo/ wond]ful    
views be=e !m1 & back$ by ! black       
m\nta9s1 up ^: sides w9d trails lead+1 9
 ! spr+1 to ! cl\ds4 ,! lonel9ess ( !   
l&1 & ! hug5ess ( ! temples & !atres    
built to hold ! p :o are no long] !re1 0
 int5sifi$ la/ ye> :5 all ! able-bodi$  
m5 _h gone to ! w>1 & ! l& 0 desolate1  
,illu/ration     ,,xl  ,,! ,,w9e-,,d>k  
,,sea1 ,,sunium  ,,xl ,,! ,,w9e-,,d>k   
,,sea1 ,,sunium  ,,f )\t & f )91 ei!r   
bright aga9/ ! d>k wat]s1 or d>k aga9/ !
 bright sea1 ! ,temple ( ,poseidon piles
 up4 ,"o c\ld /ay on t mud-swept1       
sun-beat5 headl& = mon?s2 b )\t a camp1 
"o c only /ay a day4  ,illu/ration